6ACOSY COUPON 3 1833 01745 1656 GENEALOGY 942.3101 W714M 1859-1860 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/wiltshirearchaeo6185godd THE WILTSHIRE Irrjrdflgid 01A lateral lirinrtj MAGAZINE. ' FORMED IN THAT COUNTY A.D. 1853. VOL. VI. DEYIZES : Henry Bull, 4, Saint John Street. LONDON: Bell & Daldy, 186, Fleet Street; J. R. Smith, 36, Soho Square. 1860. devizes : printed by henry bull,. ST. JOHN STREET. 686561 CONTENTS OF VOL. VI. no* im The Bradford Clay and its Fossils : By Mr. W. Cttnnington, F.G.S. 1- 10 Broughton Gifford. History of the Parish, (continued) : By the Rev. John Wilkinson, M.A 11- 72 The Harding Family, their Pedigree, 11. Court Leets, 15. Parochial Registers, 17. Houses, 22. Population, 23. Agricultural Industry, 29. Manufacturing Industry, 36. Parochial Economy, 38. Means of Communication, 39. Ecclesiastical and Religious History. The Parish Church, 43. Church Temporali- ties, 49. Church-House, 52. Rectors, 54. Parochial School, 58. Natural History. Land ; Surface, 58. Geology, 59. Water ; River Avon, 60. Broughton Brook, 63. Climate, 64. Barometrical Observations, 65. The Flora of Broughton Gifford, 68. Oldbury Hill. Aocount of a Barrow opened 1858 : By Mr. W. Ctjn- nington, F.G.S 73 "Wiltshire Tradesman's Tokens: By William Boyne, F.S.A 75- 91 Flora of Wiltshire, No. IV.: By T. B. Flower, Esq, M.R.C.S., &c.. . 92-117 Stanley Abbey, A Refugee at: By the Rev. Canon Jackson, F.S.A. . 117 Donations to the Museum and Library 119 £o. S5JJBL Bishop's Cannings, Historical Memoirs of the Parish: By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald 129-159 Manorial History, 121. Ty thing of Cannings, 124. Bourton and Easton, 128. Cote, 130. Horton, 131. Chapelry of St. James, Southbroom, 132. Roundway, 134. Wick, 138. Chittoe, 139. Ecclesiastical History, 141. The Vicarage, 142. Parish Chureh, 144. " Carrell " or reading-chair, 147. Charities, 151. Mr. T. Stevens, 152. Dr. James Pound, 153. Geology of the Parish, 154. Roundway Hill, Account of Ancient British and Anglo-Saxon Barrows: By Mr. W. Cttnnington, F.G.S 159-167 Ornithology of Wilts, No. 9: By the Rev. A. C. Smith. [ Insessores continued.] Sylviadge. 167. Paridse, 177. Ampelidse, 179. Motacillidae, 180. Frauds and Forgeries of Antiques 183-186 Duchy of Lancaster, Survey of its Manors in Co. Wilts. 186-200 North Standen, 187. Alboume, 188. Hannington, 189. Upavon, 190. Easterton Gernon (in Market Lavington), 191. Manningford Bohun, 192. Everley, 193. Netheravon, 194. Berwick St. James, 195. Poole, 197. Oaksey, 198. Ashley, 199, Braden Forest, 200. k iv. CONTENTS. VOL. VI. Wild Darell of Littlecote, (No. 2): By C. E. Long, Esq 201-214 The Dead Drummer, a Legend of Salisbury Plain: By J. Waylen, Esq. 215-223 The Picts: By the Rev. J. L. Ross, M.A 224-244 Account of the Sixth General Meeting, at Marlborough, 27th, 28th, and 29th September, 1859 245-255 Articles exhibited at the Temporary Museum 256-260 Great Bedwyn: By the Rev. John Ward, M.A., Rector of Wath, Co. York 261-291 I. — The Parish and Church. Roman Antiquities, 261. The Lordship, 263. Wolfhall, 264. The Esturmy Horn, 265. Ecclesiastical Histoey, 267. Vicars, 268. St. Nicholas, East Grafton, 270. Stock, 27 L. Marten, 273. Great Bedwyn Church, 274. Seymour Monuments, 281. Dr. Thomas Willis, 288. Charites, 290. II. — The Representative History of Great Bedwyn 291-316 Barrows on the Downs of North Wilts, Examination of, in 1853-57: By John Thurnam, M.D., F.S.A 317-336 Flora of Wiltshire, (No. 5): By T. B. Flower, Esq., M.R.C.S., &c. 337-364 The Great Wiltshire Storm of December 30th, 1859 : By the Rev. A. C. Smith, M.A 365-388 Wild Darell of Littlecote, (No. 3): By C. E. Long, Esq 389-396 Donations to the Museum and Library 397 Kllustrattons. Bradford Clay Fossils, 5. Brass of Robert Long — Broughton Gifford Church, 48. Funereal Urn found at Oldbury Hill, 73. Bishop's Cannings Church, 144. The "Carrell" or old reading-chair in Bishop's Cannings Church, 147. Circle of Stones at Stennis in the Orkneys, 242. Horn of the Esturmys ; Ditto details, 265. View of East Grafton Church, 270. Borough Seal of Great Bedwyn ; Ancient Pax found at East Grafton, 271. Marten Chapel: Ground plan; Ivory carving, and Stained glass, 273. View of Great Bedwyn Church, 275. Tomb of Sir John Seymour, 283. Skull from Morgan's Hill, 318. Drinking Cup from Pound Down barrow, 321. Yiew from Seven Barrow Hill : and relics found there, 329. Seal of Weavers' Company at Salisbury ; Ancient Seal, supposed Monastic, 396. No. XVI. JULY, 1859. Vol. VI. THE WILTSHIRE ItrjjMlngicnl anil Unttmtl listnrtj MAGAZINE, $u6luil)rtr tmtar tfjc Bixection OF THE SOCIETY FORMED IN THAT COUNTY, A.D. 1853. DEVIZES: Peinted and Sold foe the Society by Henry Btjll, Saint John Steeet. LONDON : Bbll & Daldt, 186, Fleet Street; J. R. Smith, 36, Soho Suuare. Price, 4s. 6d. — Members, Gratis. THE WILTSHIRE Irrijwtogmil unit lUtantl Ifefartj MAGAZINE. No. XVI. JULY, 1859. Vol. VI. Contents* PAGE The Bradford Clay and its Fossils: By Mr. W. Cunnington, F.G.S. 1- 10 Broughton Gifford. History of the Parish, (continued) : By the Rev. John Wilkinson, M.A 11- 72 The Harding Family, their Pedigree, 11. Court Leets, 15. Parochial Registers, 17. Houses, 22. Population, 23. Agricultural Industry, 29. Manufacturing Indus- try, 36. Parochial Economy, 38. Means of Communication, 39. Ecclesiastical and Religious History. The Parish Church, 43. Church Tem- poralties, 49. Church-house, 52. Rectors, 54. Parochial School, 58. Natural History. Land ; Surface, 58. Geology, 59. Water ; River Avon, 60. Broughton Brook, 63. Climate, 64. Barometrical Observations, 65. The Flora of Broughton Gifford, 68. Oldbury Hill. Account of a Barrow opened 1858: By Mr. W. Cun- nington, F.G.S . . . 73 Wiltshire Tradesman's Tokens: By William Boyne, F.S.A 75- 91 Flora of Wiltshire, No. IV.: By T. B. Flower, Esq., M.R.C.S., &c. 92-117 Stanley Abbey, A Refugee at: By the Rev. Canon Jackson 117 Donations to the Museum and Library 119 ILLUSTRATIONS. Bradford Clay Fossils „ 5 Brass of Robert Long — Broughton Gifford Church. .... 48 Funereal Urn found at Oldbury Hill 73 DEVIZES: Henry Bull, 4, Saint John Street. LONDON: Bell & Daldy, 116, Fleet Street; J. R. Smith, 36, Soho Square. THE WILTSHIRE MAGAZINE, MULTORUM MANIBUS GRANDE LEVATUR ONUS." Ovid. §u % §taMor& Clag anfr its $mxk: By Mr. Cunntngton, F.G.S. Read before the Meeting of the Society at Bradford-on-Avon, August 12th, 1857. ALTHOUGH I should have been better satisfied had some local geologist occupied my place upon this occasion, still I feel it a duty, to the best of my ability, to bring before you a subject specially interesting from its connexion with the place of our assembling: the Bradford Clay and its Fossils. We should I think, as a Society, make it our object to investigate fully the Archaeology and Natural History of the particular locality in which our Annual Meeting is held. The first of these has been ably elucidated by the Rev. W. H. Jones in his paper of yesterday morning, and I would now, "haud passibus cequis," endeavour to supply a portion of the second, by giving you a sketch of the geo- logical history of the neighbourhood. I have the more cheerfully prepared a second notice of the Geo- logy of Wiltshire, having been assured of the willingness of our much respected Ex-President, Mr. G. Poulett Scrope, to continue the series.1 The stratum known as the Bradford clay, is of marine origin, and consists of a bed of pale yellowish or grey clay, with occasional thin layers of irregular limestone and calcareous grit, lying under the Forest Marble, and above the Great Oolite and Fullers' earth. It may be well studied in the quarries at Berefield, on the north 1 Since the above was written, Mr. Scrope's first paper on Wiltshire Geology has been published in the Magazine, vol. v. p. 89. A foretaste with which the members must have been much gratified. VOL. VI. NO. XVI. B 2 Bradford Clay and its Fossils. of this town. It is of very variable thickness, being seldom more than a few feet, often only a few inches deep, whilst at Farleigh Castle and at Tellisford it is as much as 50 feet in depth. For the benefit of those who are not acquainted with the order of sequence of the Brit- ish strata, it may be well to describe the position which the Bradford clay occupies in the series.1 It occurs about the middle of the fossiliferous strata of this county, having immediately below it the Great Oolite — then follow the Fullers' earth, the Lias, the Car- boniferous limestone, Coal measures, &c, &c. Commencing immediately above it, we have the Forest marble, Cornbrash, Oxford clay, and Kelloway rock; then the Coral rag, and the associated Calcareous grit and Kimmeridge clay; the Wealden beds, the Purbeck and Portland Oolites. Then commence the Cretaceous group, viz : — Lower Green sand, Gault, Upper Green sand, and Chalk. Above these are the Tertiary strata : and lastly we have the older Flint drift, the Mammalian drift, Brick earth, and the Great Northern drift. These strata, more than twenty in number, were (with the excep- tion of the Wealden and some of the Tertiaries, which are of fresh water origin) deposited very gradually, a few inches, or even less at a time, at the bottom of the sea ; and although all of them may not have been accumulated above this particular locality, yet all of them were formed here, or in the surrounding districts subsequently to the formation of the Bradford clay. There is good evidence that many of the strata enumerated, were once lying above the Bradford clay, on this very spot, and that they have been removed by the disruption and denudation which modified the forms of the surrounding vallies and hills, as their bouldered fragments may be abundantly found in the drift gravel of the district. The question has lately been put to me " What is the age of the Bradford clay ?" The answer is written on the rocks around us, — nature's own stereotype, — though in language of such sublime antiquity, that our limited faculties cannot grasp its full purport. The strata above mentioned having been deposited to the depth of 1 Yide Mr. Scrope's admirable description of the British strata, in the paper already alluded to. By Mr. Cunnington, F.G.S. 3 at least 4850 feet since the Bradford clay period, we may thus arrive at some conception, though but a feeble one, of its extreme antiquity. Geologists are very generally agreed that the Bradford clay ought not to be considered as distinct from the Forest marble, and in the geologically coloured sheets of the Ordnance Map lately issued, no distinction is made between the Bradford clay and the Forest marble; it is in fact considered as part of the latter stratum. On this subject Mr. Lycett, whose valuable contributions to the Pal- aeontology of the British strata are so well known, has favoured me with a note in which he expresses his opinion, that the term Bradford clay considered as a distinct stratum does not apply to Gloucestershire.1 Nevertheless as indicating the lower clayey portions of the Forest marble, in which great numbers of the Apiocrinites are usually found, the name Bradford clay is for con- venience sake still retained. The Bradford clay of Wiltshire is confined to a band on the north-west of the county, but it is most extensively developed near this town (hence its name), and here the fossil remains are the most interesting. Mr. Lonsdale says, "It appears forming a thin bed in the neighbourhood of Yatton Keynell and Giddy Hall, but between the latter point and Berefield, near Bradford, it is want- 1 Mr. Lycett says, " The bands of clay and marl which occur throughout the Forest marble and upper portions of the Great Oolite" (in Gloucestershire) "are extremely irregular and little persistent; so much so that in draining it rarely happens that a bed can be followed 200 or 300 yards, however important it may appear in some parts of its course. None of these clay bands have produced Apiocrinites as far as I am aware, and I only know of two places which have produced Terebratula decussata ( coarctata ) and Terebratula digona (see wood- cut at page 5) ; Avicula costata and Avicula echinata have a vertical range too considerable to be of any use. Decapitated stems of Apiocrinus are not uncom- mon in the upper limestones (the upper zone of the Great Oolite, with Pachy- risma grande, of Mr. Hull). From the top of these white limestones to the Cornbrash there is no clear lithological division, and for a zoological division I think that none can be made between the lower beds of the Great Oolite and the base of the Cornbrash." My friend Professor Buckman of the Royal Agricultural College, says, "There can be no objection to include the Bradford clay with the Forest mar- ble, of which indeed it may be said to be the fossiliferous bank of deposit ." B 2 4 Bradford Clay and its Fossils. ing, the Forest marble being visible, resting on the Great Oolite at Pickwick and Wormwood. At Berefield the clay re-appears, con- stituting a thick stratum, which may be traced from that village, by Bradford, Upper Westwood, and Farleigh Castle : but through the southern part of the district it is difficult to separate the Bradford clay from the Fullers' earth." 1. It occurs occasionally still further northwards, and may be seen along the line of railway near Kemble in North Wilts, but in no place has it the same interest as in this immediate neighbourhood. Section near Kemble Station, communicated by Professor Buckman, exhibiting the manner in which the Bradford clay occasionally "thins out." The cutting of the Great Western Railway at the eastern end of the Box tunnel, exhibits a good section of the Bradford clay, but j in this locality it is much interrupted by bands of oolitic limestone. It contains many fine Corals and Echini, which have been carefully investigated by Mr. Kilvert of Bath, to whom the Society is indebted for the loan of a beautiful series of these fossils, now exhibited. Before describing more particularly the fossils contained in the Bradford clay, it is necessary that I should make some reference to the Great or Bath Oolite, on which the stratum rests, and on which a portion of this town stands. This is a calcareous Geological section of the neighbourhood of Bradford, showing the general distribution of the strata. Bd. Bradford. Bx. Box. L. Lias. I.O. Inferior Oolite. F.E. Fullers' Earth. G.O. Great Oolite, b.c. Bradford clay. f.m. Forest marble. C. Cornbrash. m. Mammalian drift, a.d. More ancient drift. 1 Transactions Geological Society, 2nd series, vol. iii. part 2. By Mr. Cunnington, F.G.S. 5 stratum, yielding the well known building stone. It was deposited in a shallow sea, the bottom of which was constantly sinking, and as constantly filling up, until the mass, which consists chiefly of the debris of small shells and corals, had accumulated to the depth of at least 160 feet. In this particular neighbourhood, when this process had ceased, and the whole mass had become consoli- dated, it presented a firm surface, well suited to the growth of the Apiocrinus which required a solid base, on which to spread out its stony roots. Let us like true archaeologists step back some thousands of years into the past, and endeavour to realize the period when the stone lilies grew in luxuriance in the tran- quil sea which covered the spot where we are now meeting. Here many generations of them lived and flourished, until the sea bottom was like a parterre of these mimic flowers in stone. Several species of Terebra- tulce (or lamp shells) clustered round the roots of the Apiocrinites. Many species of fish glided through these ancient waters, and oc- casionally disturbed the tranquillity of the scene by preying upon the molluscs, (the Terebratulce probably included) which doubt- less constituted their food, as the palatal teeth of some of them are so constructed as to be well adapted for crushing shells. Echini crawled over the rocks, and corals of elegant forms, with other zoophytes and shells varied the beauty of the submarine scenery. Apiocrinus ParJiinsoni. Brad- ford encrinite— the smaller figures represent the animal in its young state — the one with the arms expanded, the other having them closed. Terebratula decussata (or coarctata), one of the most characteristic fossils of the Bradford clay. Terebratula digona, also characteristic of the stratum. 6 Bradford Clay and its Fossils. Terebratula flabellum, Terebratula fwcata, rare and beautiful forms, found in the section at the end of the Box tunnel. But of all the inhabitants of this ancient sea, the Apiocrinus to which I have before alluded, deserves especial notice, as it was at this period of the earth's history, that it attained its greatest de- velopernent, both in size and numbers. The species most abundant here was the Apiocrinus Parkinsoni — Parkinson's pear-like lily- shaped animal. It belongs to the highest class of the Radiata, the Echinodermata, and derives its name from the resemblance of its body to a pear. In its perfect state, its ten feathery arms gave the Apiocrinus somewhat the appearance of a star-fish, growing on a tall flexible stem (see woodcut). But to descend to more minute detail, the animal consisted, 1st — of a solid root, formed of many layers of calcareous stony matter deposited round the base of the stem, as may be seen in a section. 2nd — of a long stem, composed of about 150 circular discs, with radiated surfaces. In old speci- mens, the stem was from 10 inches to a foot in length. The de- tached discs were described by old authors as Entrochi, or wheel stones, they were also popularly called "giant's tears," fairy stones, &c; and as each is perforated in the centre, they were used as rosaries, hence in the North of England, joints of some of the species of Encrinites are still known as St. Cuthbert's beads,1 in this part of the country they are vulgarly called "coach-wheels." 3rd — The body. The upper plates of the stem gradually increased in thick- ness and diameter, so as to form the elegant vase shaped body of the creature, towards the middle of which, the circular plates were succeeded by a more complicated structure, consisting of a set of five angular basal plates, two sets, of five each, of intermediate plates, 1 "On a rock by Lindisfarn, St. Cuthbert sits and toils to frame The sea borne beads that bear his name." — Marmion. By Mr. Cunnington, F.G.S. 7 and five superior plates, each of the latter being provided with two articulating surfaces from which sprung the arms or fingers. These were ten in number, and were fringed on both sides with rows of minute tentacula, formed of a vast number of small joints or bones, constituting altogether a beautiful star-shaped net, capable of con- tracting and folding in, so as to bring its prey within reach of the mouth. The mouth was conveniently situated, just within the base of the arms, so as to receive the Animalcules, &c, on which it fed. The late Mr. Channing Pearce of this town, who possessed a most remarkable series of these fossils, succeeded in obtaining specimens having some of their fingers and tentacula preserved even to their most minute joints. As many of the Apiocrinites are found lying prostrate on the clay, he concluded that the fingers on the upper side would as they decomposed, be carried away by the action of the waves, whilst those on the under side would by sinking into the clay be protected, and remain uninjured. He very ingeniously proved the correctness of his views by casting plaster of Paris on some specimens as they lay in the quarry, thus forming a solid bed for the upper surface, and then turning them over, he carefully washed off the clay, and found the arms perfect as he had antici- pated. The entire structure of these delicate organs was thus fully demonstrated. The stem of the Apiocrinus contained about 150 joints, the body about 50, and the arms and tentacles together about 8000, forming a total of no fewer than 8200 bones in the complete animal. The more perfectly preserved specimens often retain a pink or light purple tinge, doubtless the remains of their original colour. The period during which the Apiocrinites flourished in such great profusion, was comparatively short, as their remains are principally confined to a few inches only in depth on the surface of the Oolite. Sir Charles Lyell in his Manual of Geology, speaks of a sudden irruption of water charged with mud, which broke the stone lilies short off near the roots : but I would suggest another cause for their partial destruction, to which I believe Sir Charles himself would not object. As proved by Mr. Pearce, the Apiocrinites were 8 Bradford Clay and its Fossils. subjected to the action of the waves after they had fallen down upon the bottom of the sea, which could not have been the case had they been suddenly covered up with a considerable bed of clay. Instead of the catastrophe of mud, it is I think more probable that the clay was very gradually deposited; and as it accumulated, it would in process of time, form a sea bottom totally unfit for the attachment of the roots of these animals. They could not fix themselves upon a bed of soft clay, and consequently, although their remains are found thinly scattered through some of the upper rocks, they ceased to exist in this particular neighbourhood, as soon as the change in the sea bottom rendered it unsuitable to their habits. It is most probable, that like the fry of many other animals (the oyster, &c.,) which are fixed to the rocks in the adult stage of their existence, the young Apiocrinites were furnished with organs of locomotion, so that they could rove about and suit themselves as to the place of their permanent habitation. D'Orbigny the French naturalist, speaking of the habitation of the Apiocrinidce says, "All the species being fossil, it would seem difficult to define their mode of existence. If, however, I may judge from the places where they lived, and where I have found them in abundance, still in situ, I should say that in the lower coral banks of the different geological epochs, they lived in the great cavities of the coral rocks. Here at least, near Eochelle, my father and I have always found them with their roots, the stem and top being still either in a vertical position, or lying by the side. There is reason to think that they sometimes lived at great depths in the bosom of the ocean, either in places where the cur- rents were but little felt, or in the cavities of the corals, where the waves and currents could not disturb them. There fixed by their roots, their stems erect, their graceful heads crowned with their many flexible arms, they could spread themselves out, and wait for their prey, in a position exactly the reverse of that of the Asteria, and other Echinoderms, which always have the mouth beneath, instead of above them, like the Crinoides." The first recognisable figures of Apiocrinites published, were by Luid a Welshman, in 1699 ; but the French naturalists, Bourguet By Mr. Cunnington, F.G.8. 9 and Guettare, about the middle of the next century gave much more complete representations. Walcott, in 1775, in his work en- titled " Descriptions of Petrifactions found near Bath," figures the Bradford clay Apiocrinus in the name of Entrochus. In 1811 we have a full and interesting description of this fossil, with excellent engravings, published by Parkinson, and in compliment to him, it is now known by the name of Apiocrinus Parkinsoni. Since his time, many other authors have given attention to the Crinoides, more es- pecially Miller, who in 1821 published his elaborate work entitled "Natural History of the Crinoidea," and the late Alcide d'Orbigny whose admirable "Histoire Naturelle des Crinoides/' is illustrated with very beautiful engravings. The late Mr. Channing Pearce wrote a description of the Bradford clay and of the Apiocrinus, which was read before the Geological Society, May 29th, 1833. We are indeed most abundantly supplied with books of reference, but allow me to remark, en passant, that to the geologist no know- ledge of his science is so valuable as that which is the result of his own observation and research. In the " Annals and Magazine of Natural History " for 1848, Professor Mc Coy gave descriptions of a new species, "the Apiocri- nus exutus:" as however no plates were given, it is difficult to identify the species, and knowing to how great an extent these fossils were liable to changes of form, I am disposed to think that it is a variety only of Apiocrinus Parkinsoni. D'Orbigny figures as a distinct species Apiocrinus elegans, and as this is a form which occurs frequently in the Great Oolite, and is so much more elon- gated than Apiocrinus Parkinsoni, it may probably be retained as a species ; but a larger series of specimens, and a more extended , knowledge of these forms, may lead to the conclusion that this too is merely a variety. Some fine examples of the Apiocrinus elegans are now exhibited from the collection of Arthur Adye, Esq., of this i town. The Bourgueticrinus ooliticus, an animal very nearly allied i to the Apiocrinus, but differing principally in having oval instead I of circular plates in the stem, is added to the fauna of the Bradford clay by Professor Mc Coy who described it in the " Annals and 1 Magazine of Natural History," 1848. L 10 Bradford Clay and its Fossils. Of fossil remains which have been found at Bradford, I have 63 species. But I would remark that these are the result of a few visits only to this locality. Professor Woodward during his re- sidence at Cirencester, found no fewer than 107 species near that town. The collection formed by Mr. Pearce is also very rich in these fossils. I have no doubt that any diligent collector living in this neighbourhood could soon obtain an extensive and interesting series. List of Fossils from the Bradford Clay. Wood, Dicotyledonous Amorphozoa. Spongia Zoophyta. Anabacia orbulites Stylina Delabechii ? Comoseris irradians Cladophyllia sp. Thamnastrsea scita sp. sp. Isastrsea sp. Crinoidea. Apiocrinus Parkinsoni elegans Pentacrinus sp. sp. Echinoidea. Cidaris Bradfordensis Hemicidaris (spines) Acrosalenia spinosa Diadema sp. Pseudodiadema homostigma Articulata. Serpula triangulata grandis? Bryozoa. Terebellaria ramosissima Brachiopoda. Terebratula digona eardrum maxillata nabellum (rare) coarctata furcata (rare) Rhynchonella spinosa concinna obsoleta varians angulata Conchifera. Ostrea Sowerbii costata sp. (large) Exogyra sp. Placunopsis sp. Lima duplicata (young) Pecten vagans hemicostatus Aviculata echinata costata sp. Mytilus furcatus (Goldf.) Area sp. Four species of Bivalves undetermined Gasteropoda. Pleurotomaria sp. ? sp. Pisces. Pycnodus sp. ?sp. Diastopora diluviana Six other Bryozoa, not determined Lepidotus sp. These fossils were exhibited to the meeting, as well as a fine coL lection sent by Arthur Adye, Esq., of Bradford. a 0 ft o P 0 * 1 0 i 4 H P P? «! N ft 0 H ti H R ft 3* ■si II - t>»>0 .|SH 03 w 1 s II ea 6co !rt Ptrs OS Pi I 3 Wo -12 H-sl ES 11 pistarg of fjjwrajjjjion wifoxb. By the Rev. John "Wilkinson. Continued from Yol. v. p. 341. The Hardings. pfl^HE next most considerable proprietor is Edward Talbot Day Jones, Esq.,1 of Hinton House, Co. Somerset. These lands came by the Hardings, whose genealogy I have endeavoured to trace through family deeds, Court Rolls, and the Parochial re- gisters of Broughton Gifford, and Hinton Charterhouse. Whatever the labour, it has been well bestowed, for there was an especial ob- ligation to preserve from oblivion the ancestors of that family, to which our place and people are indebted for righteous deeds and alms, which here at least should always be had in grateful remem- brance. A few particulars will be sufficient to illustrate the pedi- gree. The earliest mention of the name occurs in an inquisition held on Guido Palmes, in which one "William Harding appears a tenant 1507. The next notice is in the Court rolls of the manor, in which one John Hardinge was (1544) tenant to Robert May ; he was also in that year one of the jurors, as well as one of the 1 The Parish is to be congratulated on still having a Talbot among its pro- prietors, and one so worthily representing the name. Mr. Jones is a nephew of Lord Talbot de Malahide, who is descended from the same original stock as John the first Earl of Shrewsbury. Both have probably the same remote ances- tor. But the Malahide Talbots went to Ireland in the time of Henry II., and the family have continued there ever since. They were summoned by writ to the Irish House of Lords as early as Edward II. They include in their quar- terings the original Talbot Arms, Bendy of ten pieces. They have at different times married into the Shrewsbury branch, and the late Earl of Shrewsbury (who died 1852) included an Archbishop of the Malahide branch among the effigies in his chapel at Alton Towers, and even said he considered that family to have a better title to the Earldom than the Ingestrie line. In this he was mistaken. The Ingestrie claim, is, after all, doubtful : but it would be impossi- ble to include the Malahide Talbots among the descendants of the first Earl. There might have been the same common early progenitor, but there was a divergence before the time of the first Earl. 12 Broughton Gifford. affeerers or arbitrators to fix the amount of fines payable at the court. He died before 1558, for then his widow Alicia was tenant, and ordered "to mend a stile between Barfurlong and Chessel." In 1590 (I see no notice of the name in the interval) John Har- dinge was admitted tenant to Henry May, who granted to him, for his own life and that of his son Henry, the moiety of a certain pasture called Barley Leas on payment of £16 fine. The son Henry paid to the lord of the manor half a farthing as chief rent, for cer- tain tenements called St. Mary's hold. From this time the name frequently occurs in the Court rolls, as belonging to those who were of some consideration in the parish. They stand at the head of the list of copyholders and jurymen. Sometimes they got into trouble. In 1621 William Hardin ge was presented by the over- seers of the fields and the hay ward, " for that he refused to give us an account of his sheepe and of the common that should feed them, and with violence withstood us, and yet biforre we drove them to the pound Mr. Edward Long provided the forfeiture which is 3s. 4d. and it is yet remaining in his hand." His friend Mr. Edward Long was undoubtedly at that time the principal resident, so that we may suppose William Hardin ge to have been somebody. This was not their only quarrel with the court. I find them allied in their resistance to lawful authority again in 1629, where they are both presented for enclosing ground that " by the custom of the manor ought not to be inclosed," Edward Long in "Bradley field," William Hardinge in "Mounton Ley." Sir John Horton in his memoranda, and his son Thomas, mention different members of the family as renting under them, from 1630 — 82. William Harding had Parkes, and was succeeded by his grandson John, who also held JSTorrington and Great Breaches. Henry Hardinge, William's brother, rented of Sir John, Light- woods and other lands, which continued in the family, till the time of "Widdow Hardinge" in 1682. Thejr were diligent in the dis- charge of their Parochial duties, collecting the Royal subsidies and aids, for his Majesty's use, on his restoration, and acting as churchwardens eighteen times between 1690 — 1738. A tithe case, Harding against Golding, 8th May, 1696, refers to this William By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 13 Harding. It appears lie was farmer of the tithes here, under a lease from "William Hicks, Bector; and after various answers, re- plies, rejoinders, examination of witnesses, hearing of counsel and reading of proofs, the defendant was ordered " to account with and pay to the plaintiff the value of his tithe fruit, his fallen and other apples, the tithe hay of the half acre of land, the cock of hay taken away, and 8d. each calf; the tithe lambs which had fallen, the tithe wool which he shore," and various other titheable things. But this William had other and more profitable pursuits than picking up fallen apples. He was a clothier; and, like many others in this neighbourhood at that time, by the cloth trade he rose, bought land, and made a family. He is himself always described in deeds as a clothier, and probably never aspired to be anything more dur- ing a long life ; but his grandsons are called gentlemen and be- longed to the " country party." His first purchase was from John Long of Monkton in 1650, of various lands part of the Broughton estate, for which he paid £440 only, seeing he had previous claims on them. His next was from Agatha Curtis, widow of Thomas Curtis, also part of the Broughton manor, a license for the aliena- tion (1641) still existing. On this property another William, the clothier's grandson, but himself a gentleman, built a great house. He added to the family estates by purchasing from William Prior, certain lands (the farm in the west of the parish) formerly alienated from the Broughton manor by Sir John Horton (1632). He, and two elder brothers, John and Thomas, were the sons of John and Hannah. The father migrated to Hinton Charterhouse, and there his eldest son John, described as of Symon's Inn, who married another Hannah, succeeded him, purchasing and enlarging (1700) the house in which his father lived, now called Hinton House, and the present seat of the representatives of the family. The three brothers seem to have been alike in their tastes, each of them built a big house, John at Hinton, Thomas at Holt (I leave the historian of that place to identify it), and William at Broughton. Our big house is noticeable for its handsome stair-case, embossed ceilings, and lofty, though small, rooms. It is now occupied by the tenant of the farm. On the death of William in 1738, this, the younger, 14 Broughton Gifford. but the more opulent, branch of the family, ceased to reside at Broughton. John, the elder brother, had two sons, John and William, both childless. On the death of the last named John in 1761, intestate, Mary and Catherine Jacob, the two grand-daughters of his uncle Thomas of Holt succeeded, as coheiresses. The property ultimately centered in Mary, wife of Stephen Skurray of Beckington. Their daughter Mary, wife of Samuel Day of Burnett, survived her only son, Samuel Skurray Day, and bequeathed her estates in Broughton and Hinton to Thomas Jones, Esq., who married the Honble. Mar- garet Nugent Talbot of Evercreech, Co. Somerset, sister of Lord Talbot de Malahide. Mr. Jones died in 1848, leaving two sons and one daughter, Edward Talbot Day, Felix Thomas, and Margaret Ann Mary, now living, and residing with their mother at Hinton House. I must now go back to Henry Harding, the elder brother of William the clothier, and himself a clothier. In 1652 he pur- chased of John Long of Monkton (who seems about this time to have been in want of money) certain portions of the Broughton manor. He married Margaret Gore, a Broughton lady, of many namesakes at the present time, coheiress with her sister Mary (the wife of William Hicks, gent.) of William Gore. I have traced Henry's descendants down to their present repre- sentative, the Rev. Robert Bailey Fisher, Yicar of Basildon, Co. Berks. It is noticeable that in both branches of the family male issue failed in the same generation. I have no occasion to remark on any individuals, except on Henry Harding and his two sisters, Mrs. Ann Harding and Mrs. Betty Paradice. The latter, who was the survivor of the three, " in compliance with the desire and to fulfil the intention of her sister," as the monument to the memory of the three in the Church says, "in the year 1782 vested in Go- vernment securities £900 stock, which producing an annual interest of £27, is to be applied for ever under the direction of three trus- tees, appointed for that purpose, as also the Rector and Church- wardens for the time being, to the following charities, viz. : — £20 per annum to a master for the education of 20 poor boys or girls, £7 per annum to be distributed at Christmas among such 10 poor By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 15 persons as have not been entered in the Parish book, or received relief of any kind from the Parish for one twelvemonth previous to their making such application." From that time to this, ears that never heard the two sisters have blessed them, and eyes that never saw them have given witness to them. Court Leets. We have seen that the lords of our two manors used to hold separate courts here, the spiritual lord at Monkton, the temporal at Broughton. We have also learnt how the former was lost by disuse and paucity of tenants, and so became merged in its larger and more active neighbour. Of the Monkton Court there remain, as far as I know, no records. The rolls of the Broughton court leet and court Baron date from 1544, Robert May and Sir John Talbot being the lords. This was the date also of Robert May's purchase from Sir Richard Bruges, and in fact the existing records relate solely to that half of the manor which was Catharine Clifford's. Many of the earlier rolls are wanting. There is a lapse of six years after 1554. Then another of eight years. But from that time to the present, there are no more such serious gaps. I will give such extracts from the court rolls as may seem to have any local interest, and do not range themselves under any other head. 1558. John Bonham, Esq. was a freeholder. "Was thisLeland's host at Haselbury ? Leland says, in his itinerary, that the " Bone- homes afore that tyme [before Haselbury manor house was built by Mr. Bonehome's father] dwellied by Lacock upon Avon." 1560. Michael Quintyn, Esq. freeholder. And afterwards there is frequent mention of Quintin's lands. In the pedigree of Long by Charles Edward Long, Esq. it is said, that Michael Quinton held Monkton under Sir Henry Longe. This I doubt. The Longs had no part in Monkton, till a much later date. 1571. "The tythingman reports that John Aust and Nicholas Gregory are common brawlers, and have sold beer in measures not sealed (mensuris insigillatis), for which they are fined ivd." " Also that Robert Timyse made an assault on William Peirce with a stick 16 Broughton Gifford. of no value, and drew blood from him, for which he is fined ixd." 1582. " Thomas Golding and Edward Somes played at ball (lus- erunt globis) against the form of the statute, fined 6s. 8d." 1583. " Pigs are not to range at large, except watched, unless at mast [acorn] time." Mr. Gore is presented for " putting pigs into the fields before the corn was rid" [carried.] 1624. " The custom of Broughton Gifford is that when a tenant do die the day after Michaelmas day that the Executor is to hold it [the tenement], and have the use of his living, untill Michaelmas next following, except the Broad meade and the summer fallow." This present- ment is often repeated. 1629. " They present that there are no Butts (metae, anglice Butts) to practise archery (ad exercendos sagittarios; anglice artillery)1 within the parish of Broughton Gif- ford, therefore, the inhabitants must erect proper butts before the end of Lent next, under a penalty of 40 shillings." 1629. "Ed- ward Barrett, one of the residents within the jurisdiction of this court, put dead and putrid flesh (anglice carrion) into the church brooke to the damage of all the inhabitants, for which he is fined 6d." " The way across that part of the meadow called Michell meade, which is beyond the brook, ought and is customarily used as a bridle road (cum saccis et fasciculis, anglice with sack and sumpter only), and not with wagons." Notices are frequent of assaults, dung heaps (stercoraria), ditches not scoured out, houses out of repair, drocks (quidam canales, anglice thoroughs) wanted, stiles (climaces) in various directions to be put up, found in decay (to be repaired by the lord), pound breach, trees destroyed, gates to be repaired (Awfield gate seems to have given a deal of trouble), " driver of the fields " (agrophylactes) appointed, boundaries to be set out by arbitration, sawpits unlawfully dug in the street, cattle not pastured according to the order of the stint agreed upon, but above all, cottages built, and gardens enclosed out of the lord's waste ; — sometimes as many as nine in one presentment. Unhap- pily the court, however right in its decisions, had not the power of enforcing them. Sometimes the Homage complain, " we can have no reformation, though we have often presented." At last 1 " And Jonathan gave his artillery unto his lad." 1. Sam. xx. 40. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 17 they seem to have retired from the thankless duty of finding fault, without finding a remedy ; accordingly the more recent present- ments are meagre, while the courts are held at long intervals (now every three years), instead of every six months as in the olden time. We are suffering under their failure. Our high poor rates are owing to those very encroachments against which they protested in vain. Had the Homage been properly supported by the lords of the manor and by the stewards, the population, squat- ting hibernice on the margin of the common, would have been kept down, and the farmers here would not have had to support out of their profits those who contribute nothing by their industry to the agricultural employments of the place. They console themselves by the reflection — " delicta mqjorum immeritus luis" — meaning by majorum, lords and stewards. I should add that, from some old Bradford papers, it appears that " the tything of Broughton" (as it is called) paid at Michaelmas yearlyl6d. at the court of the Abbess of Shaston at Bradford. The Abbess, being lady of the manor of Bradford, held a court for the hundred of Bradford, as well as for the borough of Bradford. And Broughton, being in the hundred, made the payment at the hun- dred court. Parochial Registers. These begin 1665,1 old style, Edmund Proby, who happily wrote an excellent hand, being Rector. They have been kept with toler- able regularity, excepting the baptisms between 29th November, 1812, and 25th April, 1813. The entries are in separate columns, and appear from the first to have been made singly and contem- poraneously with the events recorded. During a vacancy in the incumbency the clerk seems to have made the entries, but generally the clergyman was the writer, signing his own name and sometimes those of the churchwardens at the foot of each page.2 The induc- 1 Earlier Registers going back to the 16th century once existed, but are now lost. They were here in 1786, for the then Rector made some extracts from them at that date. In 1831 they were gone, as appears from a Parliamentary return then made. I have made every inquiry for the missing volume, but as yet without success. The loss is serious, and scandalous too. 2 In accordance with a constitution made by the Archbishop and Clergy of 18 Broughton Gifford. tions and readings in of the several Rectors are recorded up to the middle of the last century, with the exception of Mr. John Rogers, 1742, where a leaf has been cut out. Good Doctor Proby seems to have been seized with illness 1675, and not to have attended to the Register after that time. His name re-appears at the bottom of the page for 1680 together with " Phillip Carpenter, minister" (cu- rate). In the interval the clerk's hand is observable, but not very legible. Charles Micheii appears as minister 1682, and continues officiating during the remainder of Dr. Proby's incumbency (he was buried January 3rd, 1685), and also during the incumbencies of Anthony Beeby and Nathaniel Resbury, till the induction of William Hickes 9th September, 1689. This last Rector is more full than any other in his comments and notices on subjects of interest within his parochial sphere, whether strictly ecclesiastical or secular, or even physical. We are most thankful to him ; he certainly provided for, if he did not anticipate, the demands of the parochial historian. He resigned in the spring of 1733, and it is curious to trace the declining vigour and boldness in the formation of his letters during forty-three and a half years. When the pen at last dropt from his hand, it was with evident difficulty and with much blotting, that for once more, he traced largely (as if his sight failed him) his own name and those of the churchwardens. In very different style indeed are the decided, rather small, and clearly defined letters of "William Hickes, Rector, and William Harding and Edmund Lewis, Guardians," in 1690. To judge him by his registers and the memoranda there, he was a keen, observant man, not unkindly, but tenacious of his own rights and of the law, very bitter against dissenters in the way of disci- pline, but very zealous too in his endeavours to compel them to come in by more spiritual ministrations. He was not without a touch of humour, was somewhat of a gossip, and believed in ghosts and apparitions. Like most active minded men, he was given to emula- tion. Does Dr. Proby tell you that he baptised, three sets of twins, Canterbury 1597, that parchment register books should be provided, and trans- cripts made in them from the paper books previously in use: the correctness of the transcripts and future entries being certified by the Clergy and Churchwar- dens at the foot of each page. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 19 Charles and Lucy Gerrish, Christopher and Henry Winne, Martha and Mary Lester, within less than six weeks, between 26th Dec., 1686 and 2nd Feb., 1687 ? Mr. William Hickes, not to mention various doubles, rejoices in two triplets, three sons of John and Hannah Flower in 170S, and three sons of Abram and Jane Cleve in 1720. I regret to add that none of these survived many days. He tells you, 1696, of "Susannah an unlawfully begotten daughter of Judith Bull, widow." Mr. Hickes's meaning is clear, but the widow's selection of the name of "a daughter of Israel in whom was found no dishonesty " is almost ironical. He is not so perspicuous, when speaking of "Illegal marriages" (of which he gives a list), "to pay 6d. more at Christmas." Are these couples who ought to have married before ? Some of them are ticked off as having paid, but full half seem to have declined payment, which indeed amounted to self condemnation. There are lists of the "births of Dissenters' children not baptised into the Church," from 1699. " 1696. Wil- liam Chantry, sen. and Ann Goar, widow, were married. This couple made about 160 years. The man 75, the woman about 80." " 1702. Frances Twiford or Nash, married to one Walter Nash, but never lived together." 1729. "Marriages. John Tomkins of the paroish of Holt and Ester Stevens of the paroish of Broghton were maryed by licence, May 8th. The man was about 65 years old, and was sick 3 or 4 weeks. The woman about 25 years. He scarce ever saw her till they came to Church to be married, nor spoke a word to her above his sign to mary her, but by another person, and it was agreed upon but the night before mariage, and were maried the next day, and he dyed the next day after mariage. So that the woman was a maid, wife, and widow within 24 hours." The further revelations of the plain-spoken Rector concerning Mrs. Tomkins, do not admit of publication. But if Mr. Hickes be rich in his marriages, he is glorious in his burials. He tells you 1701 that Mary Kedman "was in full health, about 17 years old, and dyed suddenly in the churchyard at the burial of another." 1711. " Isaac Bull was buried, Aug. 13. He was thrown of his hors on Lansdown and dyed the next day. His mother he curs'd at his going out and she wish'd that he might break his leg or ever be- c 2 20 Broughton Gifford. fore he came home. He mockt her, calling her snocking . . . and other like reproachful words." Lansdown fair was then and is now held Aug. 10th. "1715. Elizabeth Aust, widow of Arthur Aust. She died suddenly while she talking to her cosen's Hunt's wife and in his house." The years 1723, 4, 5, 7, were deadly from the small pox, which then raged in the parish. 1727. A clinical baptism, followed by death : " Isaac Gay (of Anabaptist parents) about 24 years old baptised in his bed, being supposed near his departure, and dyed 9 days afterwards." 1727. "Mrs. Mary Bilson who came from London and liv'd in Broghton for cure of a distemper in the breast above 1 year and a half, her husband kept a great number of cows at Totna court by London, and was buryd Dec. 16." 1728. "Edmund Lewis, anciently of Broghton, was buried at Semington, where he last lived in a house of his son's, Fe. 21. He pined away in a kind of sor- rowful despair." About 1714 seems to have commenced the Rector's exercise of Church discipline. He then tells you, "Ste- ven Redman dyed Fe. 5, and was bury'd in his garden ;" and in 1727, " Mary, widow of Steven Redman, was bury'd in her orchard." From this time (1714) there is hardly a page without mention of some " buried without the office," or " without Christian prayers of the church ;" and at the end of the book he has a list headed, " Burials of the prophane and unbaptised Dissenters not buryd with the office of the dead, and of such as very seldom or never come to the Public Worship of God at Church." Here are pilloried among others : " 1719 John Geerish one that contemned and neglected the Public Worship of God everywhere for six and twenty years, a daily drunkard and blasphemous common swearer." " 1723 Jane Ellis a company keeper with Wm. Peirce (whose wife was living at Bradford), a dissenter and prophane talker." Others are mentioned as "pretended" wives. He now calls them "Ana- baptists," some " dissenters of no sect," and " ill livers." What- ever the offences of these unhappy condemned, it does not appear i that, living or dead, they were brought before any other tribunal I than that set up in the Rector's parlor, with himself for prosecu- tor, judge, and jury. Assuming that substantial justice was done, By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 21 however irregularly, and that the offenders deserved all they got, one can only regret that their surviving relations did not think so> and that public opinion did not support the Rector in his rigorous measures. These certainly, well intentioned as they were, did not meet with that vulgar criterion of wise counsels — success. In spite of the Rector's discipline, perhaps because of it, the people became more and more embittered, not only against him (which would have been a temporary misfortune), but also against the whole race of Rectors and the Church which they personified, a calamity yet enduring and likely to endure. Instead of availing themselves of "the office and the Christian prayers of the Church," as good Mr. Hickes intended, they founded Dissenting chapels and enclosed burial grounds of their own. Parsons as well as farmers, say, "Delicto, mqjorum immeritus luis." There are some rather interesting entries in connection with Bishop Burnet in 1711. " Mary Nutt (of 16 years of age) bap- tised July 18, and confirmed by the Bishop immediately at the Font. His lordship abiding at the Font during the service of bap- tism." "Mary, widow of Robert Collet, was baptised Jan. 6,1 aged 50 years." " The said Mary Collet was confirmed by Bishop Burnet July 21, 1711." "Dr. Gilbert Burnet Lord Bishop of Sarum preached in the Church of Broghton Tuesday July 21, 1711." This is a pleasing illustration (and there are many such elsewhere) of Bishop Burnet's diligence in visiting every part of his Diocese. His custom was to make some market town his head quarters, entertaining the clergy there, and making excursions from thence to the neighbouring parishes. If he were expected, and a congregation waiting to hear his earnest and powerful preaching, no roads, no weather, no floods detained him. He risked his life in these excursions, as readily as John Wesley. The next Bishop who visited us was the late Bishop Denison, when, at the re-opening of the Church, in October 1850, he preached a sermon which will long be in the memories of those that heard it. The 1 Old style being used, Mary Collet was confirmed before she was baptised. Her want of baptism was doubtless not then known, when discovered it was supplied. 22 Brouyhton Gifford. present Bishop of Salisbury has visited the parish more than once, and confirmed here, Feb. 25th 1858. The event has been duly and circumstantially chronicled in the Parish Register for the informa- tion of posterity. Houses. There are 165 houses in all, of which 16 are vacant. No new houses have been built of late years (except the Rectory), nor are the old ones always repaired. They are often allowed to fall down, or are pulled down. The inhabited house duty amounts to £3 8s. The number of houses chargeable with it (being rated at £20) is 4. The number of cottages coming under the operation of the small tenements act (rated at, or under £6) is 140, and the whole rate- able value of this description of property is £411 9s. 6d. The payment on a shilling rate is £10 12s. rated at a reduction of 25 or 50 per cent. So that the average charge on each cottage is a fraction more than Is. 6d. The labouring population are very indifferently lodged. The cottages are abundant, but the dwelling rooms are few and small (the weavers devote the best lighted and largest apartments to their shops), the sleeping accommodation is not such as to admit of the decent separation of ages and sexes. Wells are infrequent (notwithstanding the excellent water within a few feet of the surface), nor are the offices convenient or proper. The drainage is defective. This state of things is no more than might be expected in a parish, where the landed proprietors, being non-resident, want that interest in the people, which would natu- rally arise from personal communication. The poor here are not neighbours to the rich. In this respect we are no worse off than a large proportion of out of the way parishes, but we have disadvan- tages of our own. With hardly an exception, the cottages (originally for the most part encroachments on the commons) belong either to the poor occupiers themselves ; or to proprietors, who are hardly removed from the labouring class ; or to the farms, with which they are let. The owners or the managers want either the means or the will (generally both) to promote domestic comfort. Though there are so many cottages and some vacant, yet rents are not low ; By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 23 three small rooms and 10 or 15 perches of garden ground fetch £4 a year. The explanation is, that a large proportion of the cottages for hire are owned by one person, who also keeps a beer shop and general store of such articles as the poor require. lie works the rent against the shop, and the shop against the rent, so that he is able to keep up prices in both commodities. Population. The earliest official enumeration of the population, with houses and occupations, was in 1801, and the results for this parish in that year, and in every succeeding tenth year up to the present time, are as follow : — Year. Hons ES. Population. Occupations of Families Inhabited. Uninh. Males. Females. Total. Families. Agricul. Trade or; Other Manuf. Occup. 1801 114 1 j 282 331 613 114 35 77 2 1811 125 4 291 365 656 187 62 120 5 1821 139 1 393 383 776 145 43 99 j 3 1831 149 5 360 375 735 184 58 64 62 1841 156 378 363 741 1851 156 11 , 353 339 692 In the return for 1831, it is evident that the families, engaged in trade or manufactures, and in other occupations, are not classi- fied on the same principle as in the preceding returns. In 1841 the birth places were given, and of the 741 then living here, 725 were born in Wilts and only 16 elsewhere. In 1841, 1851, the families and their occupations are given generally in the census abstracts, but not in detail for each parish. I estimate our families now to be 148, of whom 63 are agricultural, 33 weavers, 52 of other or of no occupation. The present population may be given at 612. The proportion then of acres to a person is 2'6, of persons to a house 37. Throughout the county generally these proportions are 3*4, 4*9, respectively. The population is steadily decreasing. The cause is decline of employment for the hand-loom weavers. We dwell pretty well 24 JBroughton Gifford. together. About 320 skirt Broughton common, then the tide flows down " the street " to the church, and over the brook. The two outlying portions are about 50 round Norrington common, and about 12 at Challeymead. The houses edging the two commons are taken out of them, some with, mostly without leave or license. The population is not of a variable character. Whatever our exports, our imports are very few. The present generation, with many before them, are Broughton born and bred: with very few exceptions, the names occurring in the earlier court rolls and paro- chial registers are the existing names. This remark applies to the labouring class, who have been induced to remain by the possession of small cottages and by the operation of the law of settlement, rather than to their employers. The chief names now, and in all known previous periods, in this parish, are — Mortimer of whom there are now 75, Keen 49, CanteJo 26, Gore 21, Wakely (or Weak- ly) 20, Harding 16, Bull 15, Collet 12. Our Mortimers are of " an honourable house," and if they have not the lands, they have the name of Ralph Mortimer who came in with the Conqueror and got 131 English lordships for his trouble. Like Jack Cade they are mostly " clothiers," and " are able to endure much :" but they do not pretend " to dress the commonwealth and turn it, and set a new nap upon it," though they have more right than he to say, " My father was a Mortimer," and quite as much to claim Planta- genets for mothers, and Lacies for wives.1 They are not ignorant of their high place in the Battle Abbey Boll. Speaking in con- tempt of the Keens, the " head of the Mortimer family," old John,2 once said to me, " They came in with the plundering Danes, we with the Normans." Nor is this improbable. If the Mortimers be so called from a town in Normandy,3 Keen is from the Anglo 1 2 Henry VI. Act 4. sc. 2. 2 Old John used to attend church most regularly, with his white head and prayer hook, though his relations were all Dissenters. Once he strayed into the chapel. The minister looking straight at him exhorted his congregation to pray for whited sepulchres, who carried their prayers in their pockets, instead of in their hearts. 3 T am aware of the derivation implied by " Rogerus de Mortuo mari." This is as old as 1306 : hut I believe it to be a mere after- thought, like that which in grammar derived the English possessive case from the possessive of the By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 25 Saxon root Rene strong. The derivations of the rest may not be uninteresting as a specimen of the origin of English surnames. Cantelo is written in the old registers Cantle, and such also is the existing pronunciation. Cantle or Cantel is one of our oldest words, meaning a corner or piece of anything.1 Now a portion of our common is to this day called the corner. There is the original seat of the Cantelos. They are the Cantles of that ilk. Gore signifies in old deeds a narrow slip of ground, so that, as a surname, this word also comes from the locality. Weakley is from a personal quality, just as Long, Longman, Thynne, Little, &c. Harding is to be similarly accounted for, ing being simply an affix denoting a patronymic. Harding is the son of Hard, as Birmingham is the residence of the descendants of Beorm (Beorm-inga-ham). Bull requires no more explanation than Walter le bouf, Bartholomew le swan, and Peter le cuckoo, which occur in the inquisitions about 1340. Collett is from the Eastern Saint, Nicholas, who in a French form has given names to many families since the Crusades, Mcol, Nicolet, Collet, Collette. Thus, in this small parish, we exemplify Camden's comprehensive remark, that "we have bor- rowed names from every thing, both good and bad." There have been 122 marriages celebrated in the parish church during the 20 years ending Christinas 1857. Of these 76 belong to the first ten years, 46 to the second. The 6 and 7 of William IV. c. 85 evidently began to tell on the number of church marriages during the latter period. During the first ten years, 12 males were under age, and 21 females; or 31'58 and 55'56 percent. masculine personal pronoun, the King's palace — the King his palace, forgetting that the Queen's palace could not be thus accounted for, and ignorant of the good old Saxon inflection. Heralds too have many such after-thoughts. One of the most curious is the derivation of Arundel from the swallows (hirondelles) in the arms of that family, which, however, unquestionably took its name from the town in Sussex. So our Mortimers had their name from a place in Normandy, and are so described as early as the Conquest. Camden says there is not a single village in Normandy, which has not surnamed some family in England. 1 "No part, ne cantel of a thing." Chaucer. And the well known passage in Shakespeare (1 Henry IV. Act. 3. Sc.. 1). " See, how this river comes me cranking in, And cuts me, from the best of all my land, A large half-moon, a monstrous cantle out." 26 Broughton Gijford. respectively. During the latter ten years 5 males were under age and 13 females ; or 21-74 and 56'52 per cent, respectively. Taking all the 122 marriages, few are between those whose united ages make up 50 years. Thus we add another proof to the conclusion derived from general enumerations elsewhere, as to the early age of marriage in the agricultural districts. How can it be otherwise ? A young man at 20 earns his 9 or 10 shillings a week, and he never will earn any more. Why should he not marry at once, and make his young woman happy ? If he cannot support his wife and family, from sickness or other cause, there is the Parish bound to do so for him. Such is the reasoning of our youths, who have never studied political economy. As ratepayers, we grumble ; as moralists, we acquiesce. The marriage ceremony is conducted about here in a manner which is not pleasing. It is a ceremony and no more. There are no pretty bridal customs, no strewing of flowers, no favours, no j stocking or slipper-throwing, no nosegays. That we retain the ring is owing to the requirement of the rubric (they dispense with it at the Registrar's office), and we may thank the milliners for the artificial orange blossoms. Nobody comes to church, but the bride I and bridegroom, walking down the "street," arm in arm, followed by cine or two couples more, who are "keeping company." Parents never think of gracing the union with their presence. On one occasion indeed the bridegroom (but he came from South Wilts) I did observe an ancient custom. He was married on a Sunday, during service, and gave his bride the nuptial kiss in church before I the whole congregation ; following therein the rubric of the manual I for the diocese of Sarum, " Surgant ambo, sponsus et sponsa, et | accipiat sponsus pacem (the pax) a sacerdote, et ferat sponsae [sic], [ osculans earn, et neminem aliam, nec ipse nec ipsa." The same remark applies to games and amusements ; we have I next to none. There were indeed, ten years since, the remains of a Michaelmas revel. Bushes were hung out at unlicensed houses, jj and the whole thing had degenerated into a mere drinking bout. | The excise officers and the police extinguished it. Bull-baiting ,i lingered here longer than elsewhere : there is a tradition of it on I By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 27 the common. So there is of cock-fighting : the pit is said to have been where the Rector's cucumber frame now stands. The moral odour of the place still hangs about it : the only thing he ever missed were 5 cucumbers stolen one Sunday morning. The chief village dissipation takes place at the Whit- sun meeting of the Benefit club. The neighbouring fair at Bradford Leigh used to be much frequented, and was generally accompanied by mischievous midnight revelry. This holiday gave a mnemonic date to " the simple annals" of domestic life. I have heard old people reckon events, " come next Bradford Leigh fair." I have known a skim- mington. A mob, with tongs, gridirons, saucepans, or anything they could get, surrounded the house of one who was said to be an unfaithful husband, and made most unmelodious music. Kattern cakes are carried about for sale on St. Katherine's day, November 25th. It seems a pure matter of vulgar merchandise. There are no rhymes, no bowl, no jollity, no maidens making merry together and looking out for good husbands by help of the patroness of spinsters. We do not here realise Goldsmith's pleasing picture, " When all the village train from labour free, Led up their sports beneath the spreading tree." We have no "merry wakes, May games, and Christmas triumphs," of course no christening customs, but not even a harvest home. We are rather dull. The reason I suppose to be the early and continued prevalence here of a stern Puritan feeling, anxious to disengage itself from all observances, whether innocent or not, which could be traced up, as many of these, to Roman Catholic times. Whatever the necessity, still we may be allowed to regret 11 that many precious rites, And customs of our rural ancestry, Are gone, or stealing from us." The general sanitary report ought to be favourable. On the whole we are healthy. The only exception is the common, and this is of man's making. The common is the highest, and might be as healthy j as any part of the parish. But, because it is a common, it is nobody's , business to improve and drain it. In former times, fevers used to be periodical there, even now any disorder is of a far more virulent cha- |j racter there than elsewhere. During my incumbency a scarlet fever 28 Broughton Qifford. broke out in the parish during the autumn of 1851. In three months there were 17 deaths from that cause alone, and of these every- one occurred on the common . Children were attacked elsewhere, but not one died elsewhere. While on the common, one in every twenty of the whole population perished. These facts were ear- nestly represented in the proper quarter by the medical officer1 for the district and by myself, but in vain. The victims belonged to the lower orders only, children of poor labourers and weavers. Some of these suffered severely, 2 and 3 taken out of one family. The cause was patent. While the soil elsewhere was firm and healthy, the superfluous water being filtered through the gravel or carried off by drains ; on the common, where the subsoil is clay, it was a rotten sponge, which would hardly bear the weight of man or beast. As specimens of longevity there are in the Burial Register 1852, 3, five consecutive entries of Broughton people, whose united ages amount to 381 years, making an average of 76*2 each. But for the circumstance that these entries follow each other, the average longevity would not be so remarkable. I may add that these five include one 60, and do not include two deaths which occurred in the same year and in which the united ages were 180 years. During the last seventeen years (the limit of the Baptist chapel entries), there have been buried at church 142, at the Baptist chapel 144, in all 286; which make 16*8 per annum, or 24 per cent, on a population of 700. During the last ten years there have been buried at church 94, at the Baptist chapel 86, in all 180; which make 18 per annum, or 2*7 per cent, on a population of 650. The imported and exported burials would so nearly equal each other, that no perceptible difference in the results would arise from taking them into the calculation. That this rate of mortality is high will appear by comparing it with a statement lately made by the Re- gistrar General. He says that on an average of ten years (1841 — 1 The following is the return made by the medical officer for the Quarter end- ing the year. " Broughton Common where scarlet fever has prevailed since 17 October, 1851, and proved fatal to eleven children, is very badly drained and is the most unhealthy place in my district" Six more died in the beginning of the following year. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 29 50) the mortality was at the annual rate per cent, of 1*5 in three English districts, 1*6 in fourteen, 17 in forty-seven, 1*8 in eighty- seven districts. That the disadvantageous contrast is owing to our undrained common, there is no reasonable doubt. Agricultural Industry. The general quality of our land is well adapted for agricultural purposes. It is strong land, the surface soil being deep, with gra- vel or sandy clay for subsoil. There is no brash rock, not even stone to mend the roads with, though much in the immediate neighbour- hood to the north. Some few acres lying near the clay may burn in a dry season, but generally no drought is felt. Our growth is not earty, as in shallower and drier soils, but strong and steady, when it does come. The Monkton pastures used to be of good note in Smithfield, from the very feel of the beasts. There are no more " proofey" fatting grounds in Wilts. " The graziers told me," says John Aubrey, " that the yellow meadowes are by much the better , and those white flowers (ladysmocks, cardamine, ranunculus aquati- cus), are produced by a cold hungry water." All our meadows are yellow with gold cups. The number of acres at present arable is about 254, of pasture 1207. About 72 acres have been broken up since the Tithe Com- mutation Act. But the appearance of our pasture, in ridge and furrow, the ancient mode of carrying off the surface water, tells the tale of the land having been once under the plough. Our fore- fathers here were evidently corn farmers, while we are dairymen and graziers. Domesday book shows that in Broughton proper there were only 20 acres of grass ground ; while in Monkton there were four acres of meadow and the pasture was five furlongs long and two broad; and this property was increasing in value, while Broughton was decreasing. Wherever we get a glimpse at the condition of the soil, up to the sixteenth century, we find a steady preponderance of arable. There were no means of transport, no passable roads, generally no navigable rivers, no canals. Each district was necessarily self-supporting, raised its own corn, fed its own hogs in the wood, made by women's labour its own 30 Brougldon Gifford. clothing. The home market was the only market. Landlords and farmers were content to raise corn, because it paid as well or better than anything else. The government was content, because the people were employed and fed. The opening of new markets for wool, both at home and in Flanders, by the developement given to the clothing trade at the commencement of the 16th century, brought about a great change in the management of the land. Landlords found that, English wool being up, it was much more profitable to breed sheep than to grow corn. Accordingly they turned their arable into pasture, they enclosed the commons (which were generally arable), threw several small farms into one, and became large flock-masters. This, like all other industrial changes, operated to the peculiar disadvantage of those who were lowest down in the particular department of labour affected, and who could not turn to other pursuits even had any been offered to them. The landlord was founding a house and a fortune, the labourer was losing all. The instincts of nature and the claims of affection alike impelled him to rise. He joined 1536 the "Pilgri- mage of grace," or 1549 the Devonshire and Norfolk insurrections* and, being led by those who had ecclesiastical grievances to redress, whatever they thought of the agricultural, well nigh turned back the tide of the Reformed religion in this country. The Tudor sovereigns, and Parliament at their instance, did all they could to help the labourer. Many statutes, prosecutions in the courts, and Star Chamber fines,1 endeavoured to restrain the proceedings of the landlords in turning arable into pasture, and thereby throwing men out of work. But self interest was too strong for legislation, especially with landlords for legislators and magistrates. Enclos- ing and grazing went on, to the great suffering of the people for the time. I cannot forbear copying, from Froude's History, a very graphic description of grievances, embodied in a petition to Henry YIIL, from a discontented district, which might well have been 1 Sir Anthony Cooper was fined by the Star Chamber no less a sum than £4000, for converting arable into pasture, in Charles the First's time. But this excessive punishment may have been partly from political motives, partly to fill an empty exchequer. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 31 our's. The burden of complaint is, "scarcity of victual by reason of great and covetous misusages of the farnls.', The petitioners say :— " Gentlemen, merchant adventurers, cloth -makers, goldsmiths, butchers, tan- ners, and other artificers and unreasonable covetous persons, do encroach daily many more farms than they can occupy in tilth of corn ; ten, twelve, four- teen, sixteen farms in one man's hands at once, when in time past there hath been in every farm of them a good house kept, and in some of them three, four, five, or six ploughs kept and daily occupied, to the great comfort and relief of your subjects, poor and rich. For when every man was contented with one farm, and occupied that well, there was plenty and reasonable price of every thing that belonged to man's sustenance by reason of tillage. Forasmuch as every acre of land tilled and ploughed, bore the straw and chaff beside the corn, able and sufficient with the help of the shakke in the stubbe to succour and feed as many great beastes (as horses, oxen, and kine) as the land would keep. And further by reason of the hinderflight of crops and seeds tried out in cleansing, winnowing, and sifting the coin, there was brought up at every barn door, hens, capons, geese, ducks, swine, and other poultry [sic], to the great comfort of your people. And now, by reason of so many farms engrossed in one man's hands, which cannot till them, the ploughs be decayed, and the farm houses and other dwelling houses ; so that where there was in a town twenty or thirty dwelling houses, they be now decayed, ploughs, and all the people clean gone, and the churches down, and no more parishioners in many parishes, but a neat herd and a shepherd instead of threescore or fourscore persons." Well might Sir Thomas More say, in his Utopia, that an English sheep was a more ravenous animal than a lion or wolf, and devoured whole villages. Another turn in the trade is noted by Aubrey : but this complaint comes from the landlord class, while the labourer is well off. "The falling of rentes," he says, "is a con- sequence of the decay of the Turkey trade, which is the principal cause of the Jailing of the price of wooll. Another reason which con- duces to the falling of the prices of wooll is our women wearing so> much silk and India ware as they doe. By these means my farme at Chalke is worse by £60 per annum than it was before the civill warres. Sir William Petty told me, that when he was a boy, a seedsman had £5 a year wages, and a countrey servant maid be- tween 30 and 40 shillings. But now wages are deare in the coun- trey, from the gentry living in London, and the dayly concourse of servants out of the countrey to London." Our commons are Broughton common (the common), Norrington common, Challeymead, and Amblecroft. The law for the use of 32 Broughton Gifford. the two former is, that a tenant may put on them in summer what- ever stock he can maintain on his own land in winter. But in practise they are stocked at any season when the ground will bear the tread of cattle. With regard to the two latter, I find the fol- lowing entries in the court manor rolls. 1568. " They [the homage] say that Nicholas Gyrish now tenant of Challeymeade has no right to common with any animal at any time between the feast of St. Peter ad Vincula [August 1.] and the feast of the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary [February 2.]" The meaning is that the tenant of Challeymead is precluded from using that land as common during the period when it is commonable to the other tenants in Broughton. That period is after stated in the court rolls as above, but it is now from the 13th of August to the 13th of February. From 13th August to October 20th for horses and cows, from October 20th to February 13th for sheep. " They say that all the tenants of this village have a right of common in the eastern part of Abey [Avon] in Michelmead near Broadmead." This must allude to the meadow now called Amble-croft, which is subject to common on the same condition as Challymead. Arable commons seem to us agricultural anomalies, but they were the customary sort of thing to our ancestors. In old deeds and terriers, there is frequent mention made of " common fields," all of which are now enclosed, and in the court rolls there are such presentments, as these : — 1629, "that the tenants of this manor do not make their furrows, (lacunas suas, anglice gripings) in the com- mon fields of Broughton, as they ought according to the penalty imposed by will of the court." Again, " every tenant of this manor ought and should furrow (lacunare, anglice gripe) his land in the common fields of Broughton Gifford, whether it be sowed or not ; it is therefore ordered that every tenant do furrow his land before the feast of St. Luke the Evangelist (18th October) next, under a penalty of 10s. for each offender." No doubt, the object was to keep the ground dry during the winter, and we see now in our pasture very plain "gripings."1 1 The word is good Anglo Saxon for a small ditch to carry off the water. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 33 All these common fields are now enclosed. I have no certain in- formation of the when, and the how. But from the change in the de- scription of the glebe land in a terrier dated 1783, as compared with one about 1700, I suppose the inclosures to have been made in the interval. In all the earlier terriers, portions of the glebe land are described in acres, and half acres, and landyards (perches), lying dispersedly and uninclosed in lots and furlongs,1 bounded by the lots of other people. But in 1783 the land is put together, as it is now. In the years 1848, 9, and 50 (a period of agricultural and manu- facturing depression), an endeavour was made to enclose the ex- isting commons, under 8 and 9 Yic. c. 118, and other amending acts. The measure was recommended on the following grounds: — 1. The rate-payers would benefit. Some 35 additional acres would be rateable. The poor rates would be lowered by the rent received from the allotment gardens (which the act required to be laid out for the poor), and by the greater ability of the poor to maintain themselves without parochial relief. 2. The poor would benefit, Additional labour would be provided, for the enclosed lands would very generally be broken up. Allotment gardens would be laid out. These would be managed by "allotment-wardens," the in- cumbent, aud three parishioners (one being churchwarden) elected by the rate-payers, under the following regulations: the quantity not to exceed a quarter of an acre per family ; the rent not to be un- der that given for farming land in the neighbourhood, with the addition of all rates and taxes ; no tenement whatever to be erected ; and any other regulations which the wardens may make not incon- sistent with the act. It would seem that these rules would abun- dantly guard against abuse, and that anything like the Irish cottier system would be impossible. But if not, the discretionary powers of the wardens, prompted by self interest, would provide an instant remedy. It would have been well, if the commons had been en- closed long ago. There is already an Irish cottier population, which is altogether owing to the erection of dwelling houses on 1 A furlong is a section of an open or commonable field prior to an enclosure taking place. 0 34 Broughton Qifford. pieces of land, gained by old encroachments on the common. 3. The improvement in the health of the adjoining population. In winter Broughton common is hardly passable, even in summer the wet rises under your feet. The subsoil is clay. Towards evening, a fog settles over the whole. A low fever breaks out occasionally.1 The drainage, for which there is every facility, would be an effec- tual remedy. In all old documents this common is called Brough- ton Marsh. 4. The expenses of the enclosure would be small. They have been estimated by a most competent surveyor at £250, inclu- ding new roads, footpaths, fences, and other works, together with legal and valuing charges. These expenses would be met by the sale of frontages and odd corners, which would fetch an "accommo- dation" price. 5. The tenants were most favourable. Without an exception, all the principal tenants signed an address to their landlords in favour of the measure. One of the largest renters said, that if he had twenty hands, he would hold them up for the enclosure. 6. The landlords were favourable. The requisite form of proposal to the Inclosure commissioners was signed by persons representing interests far more in value than the act required. Probably few measures, involving the rights and feelings of many, were ever proposed with a greater amount of agreement. The following is the disposition of the arable land in the summer of 1858. ACRES. Wheat - 97 Barley - 20 Oats 18 Beans 24 Peas 10 Turnips - 20 Sweeds - 20 Mangold - 25 Green crops 20 254 Of the pasture, about 700 are shut up for hay, leaving 507 for feed. 1 A melancholy proof of the truth of these representations was given by the mortality in the autumn of 1851, as I have already shown. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 35 During the last ten years agricultural improvement has been largely developed in this district. The application of artificial manures to arable land has much increased. Now, as a general rule, a farmer will drill in superphosphate, or guano, and burnt ashes, with his roots. Such practise was formerly quite exceptional. In the field, new and improved implements have been introduced: no one chooses now to be without Bentall's broad-share, to work his stubbles and clean his land. I have seen the flail displaced by the threshing machine with horse power, which in its turn has given way to the travelling steam engine. The ear misses the tapping on the barn floor, but I do not think the labourer misses the work. He used to destroy the machine ; he has come round to think flou- rishing a big stick round his head to be rather slow. He finds that a saving of labour one way increases production, which provides labour another way. fc>felSc&fc>JL As to stock we have some very handsome cows, of the most ap- proved breeds. There is a pack before my windows which will match with any in Wilts. We reckon that a fair cow will give about seven quarts of milk a day, one time with another; or 475 gallons for (say) 275 days in the year. Our cheese has a very good name. The estimate of produce is 4 cwt. per cow per annum per three acres. Or, a pack of 50 cows on 150 acres will produce 10 tons of cheese in a year. This does not mean that a cow will consume all the grass and hay of three acres, for other things will be main- tained; but cows, and in fact all stock, require change, in order to do well. Our live stock in the summer of 1858 may be thus roughly re- turned : — Horses 32 Graziers - 40 Colts 10 Wethers - 100 Milch Cows 270 Young Sheep 300 Calves 50 Ewes and Lambs 200 Oxen 30 Swine 250 Garden allotments were provided for the labouring poor by the "Rector in 1852. The results of this system are greatly dependent on the quantity of land held by each occupier. No family should P 2 36 Broughton Gifford. have more than a quarter of an acre. The labourer must not be tempted to turn small farmer. He will do himself no good by any- such ambition. He cannot possibly successfully compete with the capital, organization, and machinery of the regular farmer. But, gens humana ruit per vetitum nefas. He aspires to be his own mas- ter, and if you give him the chance, he will try it on, and ruin himself in the attempt. Such is the struggle for land that the labourer very much exaggerates the good which 40 perches do him. If he were to keep an account of the labour expended on his ground, and value that labour at the rate which he himself receives from the farmer, he would find that his pig, his potatoes, and his other produce cost him dear. But then, there is the occupation of odd hours, the something for the wife and children to do, the in- dependent position, the procuring vegetables which are not to be purchased, the interest in working for oneself, the pride in the re- sults however painfully attained, the health gained — all this is not estimated by the political economist, but it is worth paying for, if happiness be a good. So perhaps the labourer is right after all. Our home supply of labour is generally sufficient all the year round. There is some excess of supply over demand in the winter ; and, during the pressure of the hay and corn harvests, some turn their hands to out-door work, who are not usually so employed. Wages are paid in hard cash. There is nothing like the truck system, said to exist in some localities, of so much tail corn, wood> &c, to make up scanty money payments. Manufacturing Industry. Our hand-loom weavers, whose numbers are rather more than half our agriculturists, work at their own homes, in their weaving "shops," many hours for little money. When in full employment they are fourteen hours a day at it, hands, arms, legs, and feet in full play. A good weaver can turn out four, five, or six yards per day, for which he receives 10d., 8d., or 6d. per yard. But this is not all profit. He has to pay perhaps two children, at least one to change shuttles for him. Another child "quillies." Besides, he is subject to deductions for all faults. Nor is he thus employed every day. If By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 37 trade be very brisk, he may reckon on five days of such work each week: often he has to be content with three, or none. On the whole, it may be questioned whether he is better off than his agri- cultural brother, as regards means of living : in respect of strength and health, he is certainly in a worse condition. Nor is the pros- pect before him re-assuring. That he has so long held his own against the steam power-looms of the factory is a marvel to all ob- servers, a strong evidence of his skill, endurance, and energy. Time was, when the weaver kept his hackney or pony on the common, and drove backwards and forwards with his "goods" to his master at Trowbridge in style. Now he is compelled to trudge a-foot, driving a pair of hand-trucks before him ; and is glad enough to bring back a " chain " with him, after hanging about master's office all day for it. Within the last few years, the de- scription of cloth thus manufactured has entirely changed. It used to be all "broad." Now none is so. The power-looms do all this. Our cloth is "narrow," "fancy stuffs" for summer wear, jacket- ings, trouserings, and waistcoatings. That the hand-loom weaver retains this slender portion of the trade is greatly owing to the circumstance, that the master manufacturer doubts as yet, whether it be worth his while to lay out his capital in the purchase of looms and machinery, specially adapted to this kind of cloth. "Were his orders greater, and likely to be permanent, he would imitate his Yorkshire confrere, enlarge his mill, and do all there. With this indifferent present, and worse future before him, why does not the weaver turn his hand to something else ? Why not become an agricultural labourer ? Employment on the land is increasing and will increase. This is easier said than done. Transplanting full grown trees is an operation attended with very poor success. In- door and out-door habits, the loom and the plough, the shuttle and the sickle, the soft hand and the hard hand, cannot be interchanged at pleasure. The female Spitalfields silk weaver dares not even do the household work about her own house: her hand would be "furry," would catch the delicate threads like briars, and the "goods" would be spoilt. The nervous system must be cared for, though of course not so carefully, where wool is the material. Be- Brouyhton Gifford. sides, no employment requires a longer education or greater natural powers of observation, than that of the agricultural labourer. Small wits may sneer at him as uncultivated ; but the eye, the hand, and the judgment, which can mark out a field into ridges, turning up a furrow straight as an arrow from end to end, the intelligence which can detect so well something ailing in the stock from the touch of the skin, the appearance of the eye or hair, when to an ordinary observer there is nothing calculated to excite attention; these things demand considerable natural powers, improved and strengthened by sharp observation. I have officiated both in town and country, and I consider the agricultural labourer a more agreeable conver- sationist than his civic brother ; his range of observance is larger, his employment is less special, his topics have more general interest. Parochial Economy. The Parish is in the Bradford Union, and the average number of persons in receipt of relief is 52, of whom 43 are out-door, and 9 in-door paupers. So that 8*7 of the population are receiving re- lief. The allowance per week per head of the entirely destitute is 2s. 6d. The rest are lower, according to their means. I am not aware that any degradation is attached to the receipt of parish pay. That is an old fashioned idea which has passed away with the wearing of pauper badges. We should all get on the parish pay book, if we could. The indignity and the allowance would be pocketed together. Such is human nature. Happily human na- ture provides the remedy also. The same self interest which prompts the demand of the recipient, sharpens the investigations of the paymaster. Alter either side of the proportion, and you give selfishness play on the other side, and do what you can to bring ruin on both sides. Before the Poor Law Amendment Act our rates were nearly double their present amount. The rate-payer was on the road to insolvency. Out of his hard earned profits he had to maintain a weaving population who did not care to do, per- haps could not do, such out-door labour as he could supply. The poor were gradually becoming poorer, as is always the case with those who are taught to rely on others. Why should they work ? By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 39 They could have Is. 6d. per week per head from the justices, for the asking, and with a long family that was better than wages. " Broughton would not long have been Broughton, at that rate," a farmer once said to me. We are mending now, though still there are things against us. The rate-payers are better able to live. The poor acknowledge that they are better off. I know a family which used regularly to receive 9s. per week under the old system, but have maintained themselves ever since, and feel hap- pier, to their own surprise. We are still held back by the cottier weaving population on the skirts of the commons, and by two ad- joining " close" parishes. There being no cottages in these parishes, the labourers there dwell here, and so come on our rates when they are in want, though in no way contributing by their industry to our wants. Means of Communication. We have the remains of an old pack road. It enters our parish from the west, by a hedge one mile and a half in length (said to be the longest in the large parish of Bradford) : it crossed the brook close to Mill farm by a bridge, which fell in while a horse was crossing about 1812, and the foundations of which are now visible. From this point the road diverged, one branch going to the ford over the Avon above Monkton, the other passing Holmbrook to Shurnell. Both branches are easily traced, particularly the one by Monkton. On crossing the river, this last turned to the east, and even now exists in all its integrity of deep holes and sharp turnings round the corners of fields, with the greatest possible respect for private boundaries and rights, with none whatever for the public convenience. Such crooked paths as these are signs of peaceful times. The straight B-oman roads are memorials of a conquest, and of forced labour; vce victis was all the answer given by the Roman engineers to the remonstrances of the British proprietor. They were made as much by the sword, as by the spade. In the year 1762 an act was passed " for repairing, widening, turning, and shortening the road leading from Forrard's common, in the parish of Bradford, through Holt and Melksham to Homan's 40 Broughton Gifford. stile in the parish of Lacock; and for completing a communication between the said road and the Bath turnpike road on Kingsdown hill." Hence arose a great change in our means of communication. The road which now runs along the south of the parish, between Holt and Melksham, was then cut ; so also was the road across the common. The then existing roads were improved. For the new road a portion of the glebe was taken, which Mr. Robert Addams Hickes, the then rector, thus commemorates in a terrier dated 1783. " N.B. About 20 years ago on making a Turnpike road from Melk- sham to Holt, Bradford, &c, rather more than an acre and a half was taken from the glebe through part of which the road passes. The turnpike commissioners valued this ground at £50, gave a bond for this money to Mr. Hickes the incumbent, and agreed to pay the interest of this sum, viz. 50s. per annum, to Mr. Hickes and his successors for ever." The commissioners were too much for good easy Mr. Hickes and his successors. The whole transac- tion was illegal. They had no power to give a bond instead of money. Their paper was not the " Government securities " re- quired in the act. And so loss has come on the "successors." The " 50s. per annum for ever " is now 20s. Had the £50 been inves- ted as directed by the act, it would have realised about £3 per annum; were the land available to let, it would be worth about £4 10s. The commissioners "for ever" was terminated a few years since by the Home Secretary. The trust was insolvent. The re- pairs of the roads were thrown on the parish, but the toll-gates remain to pay the bondholders. So that the unhappy rate-payers are doubly taxed : they pay tolls for the use of the roads, which they also repair. Lord Palmerston, as Home Secretary, interfered, by a provisional order, reducing the rate of interest from 5 to 2 per cent., and winding up the whole concern within 20 years. The grievance, arising from the intermixture of trusts and their insolvency in this neighbourhood, is probably not surpassed else- where. Our roads, turnpike qua tolls, parochial qua repairs, are six miles in extent. They cost us £120 a year. Of this the carriage is about £50, the material £20, the labour £50. The Wilts, By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 41 Somerset and Weymouth Railway runs through the south of the parish for a distance of rather more than two miles. The Devizes line (rather less than half a mile in the parish) effects a junction at the western extremity. Among the means of communication, causeways and bridges ought to be included. We have (I ought to say, we had) a " cau- sey," " the street " we call it, between the common and the church. It was an object of solicitude to our ancestors. The representations of the homage are frequent in the court rolls. This is one of them. " 1629. The causeway (via strata, vocata the causey) between the marsh and Broughton Gifford church is greatly out of repair, and ought to be repaired by the inhabitants of Broughton before Mi- chaelmas under a penalty of 40s." The " via strata " no longer deserves the name. An enterprising surveyor, some thirty years since, signalised his year of office by employing the labouring poor, during a slack time, in taking up some lengths of the paving stones and breaking them to pieces ; consequently we have to walk in the dirt. Portions remain, the energies of the surveyor having happily been turned in another direction. Of bridges, we have two, Church bridge over the brook, and Monkton bridge over the river. Of the former (under the name of Parsonage bridge), I observe these entries in the court rolls. "1568. It belongs to the whole village (totce [sic] villce) of Broughton to repair the bridge called Parsonage bridge before the feast of St. John the Baptist next, under a penalty of £10." The same presentment is made, with the substitution of " all the tenants" for the " whole village," 1582, 4. In 1624 there is this entry. " Parsonage bridge being new built is not thoroughly finished, and is to be amended by the parish." The largeness of the penalty shows the importance attached to this bridge, which in fact is the only direct outlet to the west. Our other stone bridge, Monkton, was the subject of much in- quiry a few years since. The bridge was " valde in decasu" as the court rolls would say, the crown of one arch having fallen in, and the parapet on one whole side being down; the question arose, who was to pay for the repairs ? The occupiers of the adjoining lands 42 Broughton Gifford. on either side did not care for the preservation of the bridge, they did not want horse ways and foot paths across their grounds. There were others who thought the destruction of the bridge would be a subject of much regret ; it was a handsome structure, with four arches, in a most convenient position for the public, being the only means of crossing the river between Melksham and Staverton, and equidistant from either, being also the direct line of communica- tion between Broughton GKfford, Atworth, Chalfield, Whitley, and Monkton Farleigh on the north, with Whaddon, Hilperton, Sem- ington, Seend, Bulkington, Keevil, and Steeple Ash ton on the south of the river. They determined therefore, in order to fix the liability of repairing on some one, to bring the question before the Quarter Sessions. The law was clear that the highway must not be lost to the public, and that the county must repair, except there were legal proofs of the liabilitj7' of others. The court very pro- perly resolved to make every inquiry on this head, before throwing the burden of the repairs on the county. Investigations elicited that Monkton bridge was built in 1725. The owner of Monkton has a map of the estate, and at a line denoting the bridge is this note: — " A foot bridge built with stone, Anno 1725, in the place where a tree laid across had before afforded a passage to foot tra- vellers across the river." The tree must have been a noble stick, for the river is there twenty- six yards wide. In 1737 an order was made on the hundreds of Bradford and Melksham, not exceeding £25 each, for the repairs. At this time the justices in Quarter Sessions were empowered under the Statutes 22nd Henry Till, and 1st Ann to make assessments on every parish or place within their jurisdic- tion towards the maintenance of bridges. And this separate rating continued until 12th George II., when the several rates were con- solidated and a general county rate substituted. Hence a common saying about here, when any mischief was done to the bridge, " There's something for the two hundreds to pay." It was dis- covered also that the bridge had been repaired by the late Mr. Thomas Bruges of Melksham, a magistrate, in 1811 and 1819, but nobody knew at whose expense. The upshot of the whole matter was, that the county, being unable to fix any legal liability else- By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 43 where, undertook the repairs, and executed them most substantially in 1856. Ecclesiastical and Religious History. "Gundrada,1 with her kinswoman Albreda de Bosco Roaldse, gave the chapel of Broctune with its lands and tithes to the Abbey of Shaftesbury."2 Whether any remains of this chapel exist, it is hard to say ; but certainly portions of the existing structure are of the beginning of the 13th century. An early English church of much plainness appears to have been built here, without tower or porch. About the middle of the 15th century it was extensively remodelled. But the changes which the building has undergone will best appear from the following sketch, for which I am indebted to Mr. Edward Kite. "Ground Plan. — Chancel, Nave, Western Tower, Chantry Chapel on the south side with a connected Porch, (forming together a South Aisle), and North Aisle. 1 From the manner in which this lady's name is mentioned, it would seem that she is a historical personage, and ought to be known. I suppose her to have been either the wife, or the daughter of William the Conqueror. Matilda and Gundrada are the Dano-Norman and Flemish names of the same individual : indeed the component parts of either name are synonymous with those of the other, though in inverse order. Gundrada, the Conqueror's daughter, was the wife of "William de Warrene, the founder of Lewes Priory, to which our neigh- bouring Priory of Monkton Farleigh was subordinate. She died in child-birth at Castle Acre in Norfolk, 27th May, 1085, and was interred in the Chapter House of Lewes Priory. Her tomb was found in Isfield Church in Sussex, co- vering the remains of Edward Shirley, Cofferer to Henry VIII., who is supposed to have appropriated it on the dissolution of the Monasteries. The ornaments were Norman, and the inscription, though mutilated, showed the names of Gun- drada and St. Pancras, the patron saint of the Priory. Ellis's introduction to Domesday, and Mr. Blaauw's papers in Archseol. xxxi. 2 Hutchins' Dorset in Shaston Monastery. King John by charter confirmed to the Church of St. Mary and St. Edward at Shaston in free demesne all those lands which Emma the Abbess proved (dirationavit) to belong to her, in the presence of King Henry his grandfather and his barons at Ealing. Among the rest — "The chapel of Broctone with its lands and tithes, given by Gundrada with her kinswoman Albreda de Bosco Roaldae." All these were proved by Abbess Emma. "Given by the hand of Henry de Welle, Archdeacon of Wells at Norh ... 23 May a.e. 7. 1205." 44 Broughton Gifford. Length. Width. 14 ft. Measurements — Chancel 23 ft. 2 in. Nave 44 ft. 6 in. Tower 12 ft. 14 ft. 11 ft. Porch 10 ft. 10 in. Chantry Chapel 20 ft. 6 in. North Aisle 41 ft. 8 in. 9 ft. 2 in. 10 ft. 8 in. 11 ft. 2 in. "Chancel. — The east window, of three lights, is of a late cha- racter, in the south wall a Priest's door with trefoil-head; on the east side of this a square headed two light window of Decorated date, the tracery forming an inverted trefoil ; a stone seat formed in the recess of the window, which may have served as sedilia; close to this eastward is a trefoil-headed piscina. On the west side of the Priest's door is a narrow light, also trefoil-headed. The Chancel Arch, which is of two chamfered orders, springs from semi-octagonal shafts. In the north wall a late window of two lights. Ceiling plastered over, but the roof externally of good "Nave. — This is divided from the North Aisle by a series of five pointed arches, of the Early English style, springing from three massive circular piers and two responds. The arches are of two chamfered orders with hoodmoulds. Roof of plaster. "Tower.1 — The Tower is of three stages, and terminates with a row of continuous battlements. On the north side is a square turret, also embattled, and rising to the height of the tower. The buttresses are of three sets-off and terminate at the stringcourse, between the middle and upper stages ; the turret also decreases in size, with a set-off, at this point. Two boldly carved gurgoyles look out from the wall, at the base line of the parapet, on each side of the tower. In the west wall is a square headed doorway, with a three light window immediately above it. The upper stage exhibits four windows of two lights with a transom a little below the centre. 1 On the south side of the tower are two dials; one, much the older, has Ro- man characters and no index : the other, below, has Arabic numbers, a gilt sun, and the mottos, " Umbra videt umbram" " Vive hodie," not indicating a very religious spirit, but happily in a tongue unknown to the vulgar. pitch. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 45 The arch connecting tower and nave is without shaft or capital ; the moulding is of two chamfered orders, the inner of which dies into the wall at the impost. "North Aisle. — This is lighted by three windows, two of which are of three lights and in the north wall, the other is of two lights with a square head, and at the east end. One of the former con- tains some remnants of stained glass in the tracery. A crowned figure occupying one of the central compartments is evidently in- tended to represent the Virgin ; she is seated and wears a cope, the hands are crossed on the breast, the hair dishevelled, and the head surrounded by a circular nimbus ; the cope is lined with ermine and reaches to the feet, the edges are ornamented with embroidery, and the morse or clasp, by which it is fastened at the neck, is clearly visible. Two figures on each side of this, in smaller compartments, apparently represent angels, but the instrument or symbol, which they bear in their hands, has not been identified. Many traces of crowns may also be seen on separate quarries, also the head of a crozier, which belonged to a figure of considerable size. The roof of this aisle is of plaster,1 and nearly semicircular ; it is divided by moulded ribs into fourteen compartments, at the intersection of the ribs are bosses. In the centre of the north wall is a low doorway, now blocked up. Roof gabled. "Chantry Chapel.2 — This is divided from the Nave by two arches of similar character to the Chancel arch. Beneath the east win- dow, which is of three lights, square headed, was formerly an altar, the piscina attached to which still remains perfect. In the south wall a three light window, and to the west of this a narrow trefoil- headed lancet. The roof is gabled. "South Porch. — This is merely a continuation of the Chantry Chapel westward ; the roof of the chapel appears to have been originally flat with a parapet, but on the erection of the Porch both were gabled, in order to correspond as nearly as possible with the North Aisle. From the existence of a staircase in the west 1 "The church was ceiled 1720." — Mr. Hickes. 2 In Mr. Hickes' memoranda, this is called Horton's He, because (I take it) the Hortons sat there, it being the aristocratic portion of the church: though it may have been built by a former lord. 46 Broughton Qifford. wall, it may perhaps be inferred that a Parvise, or Priest's chamber, once existed over the Porch, but no trace of a window by which it was lighted is now to be seen. In the east wall are several small oblong - apertures (now blocked up) by means of which a view of the Chantry altar was obtained from the interior of the Porch. Two large stones built into the wall over the outer doorway are carved in low relief, and represent, each an angel bearing a blank shield, and placed in a cinquefoil-headed niche with crockets and a curiously formed finial ; from the points of two pinnacles which terminate the shafts of the first canopy, springs a second cinque- foiled arch enclosing the finial of the first and forming a sort of double canopy. (Query, if, on the shafts of one of these, are some shears represented, which would connect a clothier with any altera- tions made in the church at an early date.) On either side of the Porch is a stone seat. " The earlier portions of the building appear to have been the Chancel Nave, North Aisle, and Chantry Chapel. The Chancel retains several features of " Early English" date; the arcade divid- ing the Nave from the North Aisle, also of " Early English" date, proves the existence of a North Aisle at an early period. The Tower and Porch appear to have been both erected at the same date : the for- mer is a good specimen of plain Perpendicular work. It may be re- ferred to about the middle of the 15th century. At the same date, perhaps, the Chancel arch was re-built, also the arches connecting the Nave and Chantry Chapel, and the greater portion, if not the whole of the Church, fresh roofed. Possibly some of the walls may also have been repaired, or re-built, and windows of Perpendicular character inserted to correspond with the newly built portions." It may be added to Mr. Kite's account, that the present Porch might have been originally the basement floor of a belfry, and that the steps (which are now a puzzle) led to some upper apartment in it ; that long afterwards, when the Tower was built, the belfry was turned into a South Porch, the large entrance made, the floor of the upper apartment removed, but the steps from the basement allowed to remain ; and at the same time the west end of the belfry and the east end of the South Aisle were cased over with ashlar. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 47 It may also be remarked that tHe ovolo mouldings of the circular pillars are not alike, two together. The hood moulding which supported the roof loft on the north is very clear. The steps which led to it on the south were brought to view, when the Church was restored. This was in 1850, under the superintendance of Mr. T. H. Wyatt, Diocesan architect, and at a cost of £321, which was provided, without any rate, by grants from the Incorporated and Diocesan Church Building Societies, and by private subscriptions. It was high time. The area was divided into thirteen enclosures,1 corresponding to the principal farms, of different sizes, but all so high, that the clergj^man at the communion table could not see his congregation, nor they him. The accommodation for the poor was confined to a singing gallery,2 which completely filled up the western arch and window, and to some few seats under it. Another gallery closed another window in the North Aisle. The Church being then made rather dark, five attic windows (one for the preacher's special benefit over the pulpit) were inserted in the roof, which they extensively weakened. The damp and decay were such, that fungi were growing on the altar steps. The paths were uneven and unsafe: here a hard stone had resisted the tread, here a soft one was hollowed. Some walls were split. The heavy sound- ing board was like to tear itself by its own weight from its hold- ings, and overwhelm the unhappy preacher in his pulpit. The bases of the large circular pillars were cut away to fit in the pews, the foundations (originally shallow) were undermined by vaults (the fee for burying in church was only 13s. 4d. a century since). laMr. Weekes built a new seat of deal. December 1726." (Mr. Hickes' memoranda.) This may have been the beginning of the lofty pew system,, which in 1850 was defended here on the authority of Scripture . " when thou prayest, enter into thy closet, and when thou hast shut thy door." 2 " 1708. This year the gallery was erected and built. Towards the same Thomas Horton gave four pounds one shilling and sixpence. William Hickes, Rector, gave ten shillings. The whole cost was twelve pounds." [ (Mr. Hickes' memoranda). The neglect of the labouring poor was based on an intelligible principle. One of the chief tenants said to the Rector, 1850, that the church was for the use of the rate-payers, and that, if it were held that money was to be spent for the advantage of those who did not contribute it, he would be an anti-church rate man. 48 Broughton Gifford. The whole interior was burrowed. Some of the vaults were filled with water. That the roof stood was a mercy : it certainly would have gone, but that the pillars on the south, which are much out of the perpendicular, incline inwards. Had the pressure been the other way, the roof must have been split asunder. We have now set all right, except the roof. That we leave to the next genera- tion. The plans for it are in the parish chest, and I hope my suc- cessor will carry them into execution.1 We have a brass, of which an engraving is annexed. The lines are quaint, but touching. The age of Hobert Long is stated as 46, but this must be an error. Some Long papers in the British Mu- seum (Add. MSS. 15,561) contain most careful statements of the births of all the eleven children of Henry Long and Mary May. Robert, the sixth child, was born 10th Nov. 1574, and was conse- quently 48 at his death on 13th Nov. 1622. Of bells we had one of renown f everybody said there was not such another between this and Hungerford, where was its fellow. There is a constant tradition that this bell was given to the parish of Broughton Gifford by the parish of Melksham, on consideration of a right of holding a fair here on our common being transferred to Melksham, and that there was a large admixture of silver (some said gold) in its composition. However this may be, its charms, provoking temptation, proved, as with other beauties, its own ruin and that of others. On the marriage of the late clerk's son, some of his young bachelor friends, fresh with beer from the marriage feast, locked themselves up in the belfry, determined to try the tones of the bell to the uttermost, and for this purpose, not conten- ted with the bell rope, they struck the bell itself with a sledge hammer. It rang magnificently its own knell. Split and frac- 1 Mr. Hickes was the Church restorer of the last century. He enumerates, the il Reading desk altered 1725, the iles of the Church new laid 1726, the gallery built 1708, Church ceiled 1720, Church walls adorned with Scripture sentences, the ten commandments, Lord's Prayer, and Apostols' creed or belief, and King's arms Done 1724." 2 " Church Goods. 1553. Certificates of Anthony Hungerford, William Charington [Sherington] and William Wroughton, Knights." (Augmentation office, Carlton Ride.) ***** << Broughton. Delivered to Michel Q,uinton and to Thos. Redman by indenture iij belles." The sign of our village ale-house has been (time out of mind) " The Bell." Robert Longe second sone of Hen: Longe or whad DON EST THE COVNTY OF "WILTS ES(£ MARRIED MlLLESALNT DAVGHT^OF THO: VVlTSEY PREACHER OF GODS "WORD : BY WHOM HE HAD HII. S ONES : ROBERT, EDWARD . HENRY, Po ST hws . He died an°dni. mdcxx. noveber xni. isuA-. svs. XL VI. IN PIOVSE MEMORY OF WHOMi, HIS MORNFVLL WIFE E RECTED THIS MORE LOVING ,THEN COSTLY REPRESENTATION. The Life, of Mann u a irewe L ottarte Where -venterouseZ)eath draws forth loits short Si Longe. Yet free f^romfraude , and partcallflatierie , JETee shuf'd Sheilds erf- seuerall si\c amonge , Drewe Lonqe ; and sot drewe lonqerhis shori daj.es auncient of dates beyonde all time to praise . Idw. Kite. del. et anastat. Brass of Robert Lonce, A.D. 1620; / n Bflough ton G/rroK£> Chukch. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 49 tured, it was sold and re-cast. Whilst being broken up a quarter of a cwt. of it was stolen. The thief was convicted, and died soon afterwards. In Lombardic characters on its circumference was the inscription, " Ave Maria gratia plena Dominus tecum." A cast of this was taken, and deposited in the Museum of the Oxford Arch- aeological Society. There was a smaller bell, also cracked, as ru- mour says, at another and more aristocratic wedding, that of the lord of the manor with Jane Lewis in 1732. It had this inscription, "William Harding, Nicholas Gore, Churchwardens 1665. W±P± RP." Our two present bells were cast by Llewellyn of Bristol, 1850. In the parochial register there is a " Memorandum. That the Communion Plate of silver was given to the Parish of Broghton by Mr. John Horton, gentleman, of the said Parish, June the eleventh, Ano. Dni. nri. Jes. Xtri. 1731." This refers solely to the paten, which has the date 1731, and a shield bearing a single buck's head, the proper coat of the Derbyshire Hortons. The cup is older, having the date 1546 scratched on its cover. Of our church-yard there is nothing to say, but that it had a hatch once as Mr. Hickes takes care to record, adding, "1698 Me- morandum. This year was the wall on the west and north of the Church-yard built by Tho. Big and Will. Sertane, Churchwardens. But Sertaine, being tenant to the next ground, out of covetousness took in above two foot of the Church-yard, for the outmost bounds of it were in the midel of the ditch, where it was bounded with posts and rails which stood in or about the midel of the ditch that remains still." Let all removers of ancient landmarks beware. Their misdeeds may be imperishably recorded against them, while they fancy that the memory thereof has perished. Under the head of Church Temporalities, I should mention that Henry Longe of Wraxhall (thrice Sheriff of Wilts) gave, by his will, dated 1st May, 1490, (among similar bequests to every church in the neighbourhood), to the church of Broughton 13s. 4d. for vestments. I also give this extract from Nonarum Inquisitiones. " Parish of Broughton Church. The Presentation of Robert le Couk, Walter de Gore, Robert Martyn, and Roger le Yong, parishioners of the church aforesaid : who present on their oath that the said church E 50 Broughton Gifford. is taxed at £10, and that the ninth part of grain, wool, and lambs is worth this year, in the parish aforesaid, £8 and not more ; that the rector of the church aforesaid hath by gift to his church 40 acres, which are worth per annum 13s. 4d., the tithe of hay and other small tithe, (which) are worth per annum 26s. 8d. There is no chapel situate within the said parish : nor are there any other temporalities than those declared above ; nor is there any one living within the said parish who gets his living otherwise than by agri- culture and store of sheep : and therefore cannot be taxed for a fifteenth. This Presentation was made at Marleberg before Robert Selyman and his fellows, assessors and setters of the ninth aforesaid, 3 April, 15 Edward III. 1341. In witness whereof the parties hereto have severally affixed their seals to this Indenture. Dated on the day, at the place, and in the year aforesaid." The explanation to be given of the assessment is this. The feu- dal military system, however available for home defence, was not adapted to the prosecution of those foreign wars in which Edward III. engaged. These demanded money, money was procurable only by taxation, taxation was imposable only (as all the Edwards found) by the authority of Parliament and Convocation, for civil and ecclesiastical property respectively. From the date of the Statute de tallagio non concedendo, 1297, which had been extorted from the necessities of the first Edward by the firmness of Arch- bishop Winchelsea and the Earls of Hereford and Norfolk, it had been unlawful (though the thing had been occasionally done) to raise supplies, either by aid or by tallage, on the sole authority of the King. The Parliament was the more liberal in granting legal aids, through jealousy of ro}ral tallages. The amount assessed was a fractional part of the value of moveable property, and was called a subsidy. In 14 Edward III. Parliament granted a ninth and a fifteenth. In the same year the clergy granted a tenth for two years. But, notwithstanding this liberality, they were ass- essed to the ninth. Archbishop Stratford remonstrated, and redress was given. A commission was issued to the Royal Commissioners, instructing them to ascertain, on the oaths of some of the principal inhabitants, the value of the ninth of such moveable goods as corn, By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 51 wool, and lambs; if this ninth should exceed the amount of the assessment made, 1291, in Pope Nicholas* valor (called in this in- quisition "the tax"), the larger sum was to be collected; if, on the contrary, the ninth should be less than the valor, then the lower sum should be collected, and an account given of the defici- ency. Thus the parishioners here say, that the assessment in the valor was £10; but that their return is £8 only, the difference (forty shillings) being owing to the exemption, from such taxation, of the glebe worth 13s. 4d., and the tithes worth 26s. 8d. The fifteenth appears to have applied only to towns and cities, and therefore was not to be assessed here. The valuation of Pope Nicholas continued in force, till, the first fruits and tenths being transferred to the Crown, a new survey was made by commissions issued by the King under an act of Parlia- ment, 26 Henry VIII. c. 3. This, which is still in force for pay- ment of first fruits and tenths, is called Liber regis, or valor ecclesi- asticus. The return of this parish is as follows : " Rectory of Broughton Gifford, with the fraternity there. Henry Yong, £ s. d. 20 8 0 13 3i 19 14 8f 39 51" My next extract1 is from the report of the Commissioners ap- pointed to survey Chantry property in the Diocese of Sarum in 1 One copy of the report of the Chantry Commissioners (from which this extract is taken) is in the Cathedral muniment room at Salisbury. Hechyn is the same as Heches, like housen for houses, the regular Anglo-Saxon plural termination. The Recheswere the Roches of Bromham, of which family Sir John Roches Kt. died seized of lands and tenements here in 1401, and his niece Edith Roches married Harry Tropenell of Great Chalfield. E 2 Rector. Value per annum Deductions. s. d. Annual pension to the Abbot of Malmesbury ..68] Procurations to the > Archdeacon . . . . 7 7| j Balance Tenth thereof. . 52 Broughton Gifford. the second year of Edward VI. " Parish of Broughton. William Rechyn gave one messuage in Broughton with a close adjoining to the same, 4 acres of arable land in the Common-field, half acre of Meddowe in Broad-mede, for and to the maintenance of the yerelie anniversary within the saide Churche; all which premises be in the tenure of one Johan Diddell widdowe, and payeth, over and besides the yerelie goinge oute, to the chefe lorde of Broughton 10s. 6d." There are five terriers in the Diocesan Registry relating to the glebe house and lands, all written by the rectors, and signed by them and the churchwardens for the time being. Three of them are dated 1671, 1677, 1783. Two are without any date, but from internal evidence they may be assigned to 1600 and 1700. In the first, signed by "Johannes Bold, Rector, and Mychaell Cuffe, Nicholas Gore, Churchmen," the " som total is 36 acres arrable, 8 of Pasture, and 2 acres of Meadowe." In the next, 1671, it is re- duced to "37 acres and 3 yards by estimation, 37 acres and 1 yard by measure, and the annual value £30." Very high for that time, when the tithe of the whole parish was only £60. In 1677 the quantity is still further reduced to 36 acres and 3 yards. The same in 1700. In 1780 the "glebe lands were measured, and a plan taken of them by order and at the expense of the Rev. Mr. Hickes the present incumbent." This account is curious, as shewing that the lands, which in all preceding terriers are described as lying very dispersedly (an acre lot here and a quarter acre lot there), are thrown more together; and also, as marking the change which had taken place in agriculture. In 1600 out of 46 acres, 36 were under the plough, and only 10 in grass. In 1780 the whole was in grass. After saying that this total was 34a. 2r. 12p., Mr. Hickes in his ter- rier of 1783 accounts for the deficiency as compared with previous terriers, by the land taken for the turnpike road before mentioned. The present condition of the glebe marks another change in agricultural practice. Though none has been broken up of late years, 20 acres are now arable. It has been drained, and the whole is in high condition. Of the Church house there are these memorials. Court roll 1568. "The jurors say that the house called the Church house was built By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 53 and founded upon a piece of waste ground belonging to the lords of this village." 1629. "Also they present that the Church house is situate and built on the waste of the lord of this manor, and, as they have heard, was the house of the parishioners, and 60 years and more since was at their use and disposal ; but during 30 years and more the lords of this manor have held it and disposed of it." The purposes for which the Church house was used having been superseded by the more orderly, though less festive operation of rating, we find Mr. Hickes making in the parish register this in- structive entry. " In Novemb. Ano. Dni. 1732, a House called the Church House, which had two chimnys, one at each end, was pulled down, and the stones and timber used in the rebuilding the House near the Parsonage House [Church farmhouse]. This House reached from the Lower Stile (going to the brook) to the rails east- ward, as may [be seen] from the stoone wall left for bounds of the Church yard. This Church House was built by one Thomas Cock- son, as appeared by a stoone in the wall of the said house next the Church yard side, in which was engraven a Pedlar's Pack, and on each side a cock. Some poor people liv'd in it in the memory of man, who liv'd in the year sixteen hund. eighty and nine, and in particular cas I have been inform'd by some that could remember it, the father of John Oatridge, which John Oatridge had a leg cut of, and mended shoes in a house belonging to Esqr. House, in the lower end of the field near the brook, and was buried in May 1706, which House was pulled down about year seventeen hundred and eleven or twelve. About this Church House, after it was pulled down, were noises in the night, like throwing the timbers about one upon another and upon the stones that lay near, by Mrs. Hunt and her two daughters that liv'd just by. Likewise in the Farm House (lying by the Parson's House, in which then liv'd one Robert Newman), while the Church House was pulling down and after, they heard the treading of one going up and down stairs. Also a noise of throwing the stones that were brought from the said Church House into their Barton, from one heap to another." There was an old Rectory house here, built probably about 1600. Having fallen into a state of extensive decay, it was pulled down 54 Broughton Gifford. 1849, and the present one built on the same site, from the designs of Mr. T. H. Wyatt. The following are the institutions of Rectors, according to Sir Thomas Phillipps' printed lists, as corrected by comparison with the originals: — A.D. Patron. Rector. 1308 Abbess of Shaftesbury Nicholas de Lavington. 1314 Ditto John de Selewode. 1322 Ditto Peter de Wymborn. 1326 Ditto Walter deKemeseye (exchanged for Patney). 1328 Margaret, Abbess of S. Wm. de Abendon (from Patney). 1336 Abbess of S. John de Ombury : by exchange from Fenny 1337 The King, for the Abbess Ralph Northern (revoked). [Sutton. 1337 Ditto Thomas Tremer. 1347 Ditto Stephen Avebury. [Olneye.) 1349 Abbess of S. Peter le Wyse (exchanged with Ralph de 13991 Ditto Thomas Polton, vice Johannis Croxsale. 1400 Ditto Wm. Stoke, vice Thomas Pulton. 1400 Ditto Wm. Frank. 1407 Ditto John Teffonte, by resignation of Wm. Frank. 1412 Ditto Wm. Aas, by resignation of John Teffonte. 1419 Ditto John Lawrence, on death of Wm. Aze. 1422 " Ditto John Fovent, on resignation of John Law- 1424 Ditto Wm. Whitmer, vice J. Fovent. [rence. 1429 Ditto Richard Olyver, by exchange with Wm. 1434 Ditto Wm. Notte. [Whitmer. 1438 Ditto Rob. Tonge, exchanged with Wm. Notte. 1438 Ditto John Daldeyn, vice Rob. Tonge. [Daldeyn. 1443 Ditto Stephen Mourepath, on resignation of John 1446 Ditto Rich. Rede, on death of Stephen Mourepath. 1447 Ditto John Seymour, on death of R. Rede. 1457 Ditto John Parke, vice John Seymour. 1457 Ditto Roger Favel, vice J. Parke. 1459 Ditto Nicholas Peresson, on resignation of R. Favel. 14871 Ditto Richard Estmonde, on death of Nicholas Godfrith. 1504 Ditto Thomas Chafyn, on death of R. Estmonde. 1509 Ditto Thomas Gronow, on resignation of T. Chafyn, 1513 Ditto John Goldvye, exchanged with T. Gronow. 1523 Ditto Henry Younge, on death of J. Goldvye. 1 There are evidently in this list 2 lacuna, one between 1349 and 1399, and another between 1459 and 1487. There is an entry in the Institutions, u 1361. Brutton. Patron, Bishop. Rector, Wm. Bj'de." This may belong to Brough- ton, and the Bishop may have appointed by lapse. But it is also to be observed, that the Institutions are wanting from 1366 to 1375, Parts also of the years 1474, 5, are lost, as also 1481 to 1484 inclusive. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 55 1568 The Queen John Bolde, on death of H. Younge. 1600 Ditto John Bold, on resignation of Doctor Bold. 1621 The King Paul Hood, on death of last Rector. 1632 Ditto Robert Thompson, on death of Paul Hood. 1633 Ditto Edmund Proby, on death of R. Thompson. 1684 Ditto Antony Beeby, on death of Edmd. Proby. 1687 Ditto Nathaniel Resbury, on death of Ant. Beeby. 1689 Ditto Wm. Hickes. 1733 Ditto James Webb, on resignation of Wm. Hickes. 1742 Ditto John Rogers, on death of James Webb. 1742 Ditto Griffin Scurlock, by cession of J. Rogers. 1742 Ditto James Sparrow, on death of G. Scurlock. 1763 Ditto Robert Addams Hickes, by resignation of J. Sparrow. 1788 Ditto Wm. Walker, on death of R. A. Hickes. 1812 Ditto Charles Strong, on death of Wm. Walker. 1848 The Queen John Wilkinson, on resignation of C. Strong. That they lived and died are almost the only records of my pre- decessors. In consolation for our obscurity, the poet tells us that The world knows nothing of its greatest men." Some lived long and peacefully in troublous times. The two cen- turies pre-eminently fraught with change to the Church of England were the 16th and 17th. But these were precisely the periods of the two longest incumbencies in the whole list, Henry Younge was rector here 45 years, all through the Reformation: and Edward Proby 51 years, all through the Great Rebellion. Dr. Proby was not, however, resident all that time. He was ejected by the Commonwealth, but lived to come back with the King. He was of the family of Proby, which coming from Chester (Lancastrian again), settled at Elton, Co. Huntingdon. Our rec- tor was the third son of Sir Peter Proby, Lord Mayor of London 1622, and of Elizabeth his wife, daughter of John Thoroughgood of Chivers, Co. Essex. The present representative of the family is the Earl of Carysfort. The following account of Dr. Proby's con- nection with Jesus College, Cambridge, has been most kindly sent me by Dr. Corrie the present Master. " Edmund Proby was admitted Pensioner of Jesus College, Cambridge, in the year 1617: took the degree of B.A. on 23rd May, 1620 (as "Edmundus Proby, Londinensis "), and proceeded M.A. February 28th, 1624. His name does not appear among the Fel- 56 Broughton Gifford. lows of the College, but by his will, dated July 6th, 1674, he de- vised the sum of £1200 to Jesus College, with the view of founding Two Fellowships in that House : — one for Divinity, the other for Civil Law. He provided that, in case the College should decline to accept his bequest, then the £1200 should be laid out by his executors in the purchase of an Impropriation, the proceeds of which should be applied, from time to time as they accumulated, to buy up other Impropriations, with a view to uniting them to the vicarages to which they might severally belong. By a codicil to his will, dated 10th May, 1676, in which he takes notice of his former bequest to Jesus College, he directed that the £1200 above mentioned might be applied to found Two Bye -Fellowships, with- out prescribing any conditions, except that these Fellows should not be entitled to any emoluments beyond what the investment of £1200 might produce, giving the College power, in case the Fel- lowships were declined, to apply the £1200 in the first place to the purchase of the Impropriate Tithes belonging to any vicarage in the gift of the College, so as to unite the tithes to these vicarages. 'And, also, for the buying in of Advowsons, of Rectories, and Yicarages, and settling the same in such legal manner as that the same might be presented unto and disposed from time to time, for ever, by the said College/ " It appears that soon after the death of Dr. Proby, the £1200 was paid over to certain Trustees for the purposes expressed in the Codicil: and that four Advowsons were purchased within the fifty succeeding years. But in the 9 George II. an act passed by which Colleges were restrained from purchasing Advowsons, if the num- ber of livings in their gift equalled half the number of the Fellows of the College. Jesus College being thus precluded from any fur- ther applying the proceeds of Dr. Proby's bequest in the manner they had hitherto done, they had to obtain an act of Parliament to enable them to invest those proceeds in public securities, with a view to accumulating a fund, out of which they might augment the income of their smaller livings: and to that purpose the pro- ceeds of Dr. Proby's legacy are at present devoted." It only remains to add that Dr. Proby was buried, 3rd January, By the Rev, J. Wilkinson. 57 1684 (old style), on the north side of the chancel, and that the following inscription, surmounted by his arms deeply cut, is on his tomb stone: — " Spe certa resurgendi in Christo sub hoc Marmore depositee sunt exuviae Reverendissimi Edmundi Proby S.T.P. filii natu tertii Petri Proby de Elton in comitatu Huntingdoni® Equitis Aurati qui per annos quinquaginta Et ultra fere duos hujus Ecclesite Rector, Tandem A0. Dni 1684 JEtatis suae 86° moriens obdormivit." John Seymour (mis-spelt, in Sir Thomas Phillipps' Institutions, Sowdon and Southern) was elected Fellow of All Souls, Oxon, 1447 ; installed Canon of Windsor 1470 : died 1500. He was a benefactor to Windsor, and his obit was kept on September 4th.1 Mr. Hickes has so fully described himself in the parochial re- gisters,2 that he has well nigh been his own biographer. It has been mentioned that he was careful to maintain his rights. Of course, next to " Anabaptists and Dissenters of no sect," tithes were the most frequent cause of dispute. Of tithe-payers no one seems to have been more disputatious than Golding. Not satisfied with his defeat in his cause with the rector's farmer of the tithes, William Harding, he in 1720 entered the lists with the rector him- self. Golding occupied different lands, some subject to tithe, others (Hutton's land) where the tithe was (as he said) compounded. He kept "divers cows " on all his lands ; and every year, some few days before they calved, drove them on Hutton's land, where they calved, leaving nothing but "dry, barren, and unprofitable cattle " and no " fatted calf" to the parson. The defendant did not deny the fact, but disclaimed any design to injure the rector : it was his custom, he said, to keep his cattle during the winter season in 1 Ashmole's Berks iii. 251. History of Windsor. A list of the canons by Thomas Frith (himself a canon.) "Johannes Seymour, Coll: Omn: An: Oxon. Socius electus 1447. Installatus 1470. Rector Ecclesiae de Broughton in "Wilts, ob. 1500. Benefactor, cujus obitus celeb. 4 Sept." 2 " Hie velut fidis arcana sodalibus olim Credebat libris ; neque, si male cesserat, usquam Decurrens alio, neque si bene : quo fit, ut omnis Votiva pateat veluti descripta tabella Vita senis." Hov. Sat. II. i. 30. 58 Broughton Gifford. houses and stalls until the inclement weather abated, that always on the approach of spring and calving time, he drove his cows from their houses and stalls to the best ground he could get, to preserve the calves. He failed, however, in convincing the court that his motives were purely bucolic, and was ordered "forthwith to come to an account with the plain tiff." The rector was more successful in the enforcement of his material, than of his spiritual rights. The law could reach men's cattle, but not their consciences. The means of education were partly provided here for the labour- ing population, as we have seen, by good Mrs. Paradice in 1782. Further facilities were afforded in 1850 by the erection of commo- dious school and class rooms. Natural History. Land. We lie in an extensive valley, which measures eight miles across. Kingsdown is on the north, the line of hill trending away towards Oorsham (thus separating us from the Box valley), and Monks park; then (the river Avon intervening) follow, Bowden, Sand- ridge, Rowde, Roundway Hills, and the projecting hog's back of Seend, on the east; Salisbury Plain, the heights of Bratton, Ed- ington, and the White Horse of Westbury are on the south ; the hills about Farleigh-Hungerford, Westwood, Bradford (the river escaping here through a narrow opening), Winsley, and Conkwell, close us up westward, and connect themselves with Kingsdown. The surface of the parish presents no commanding eminences, and yet cannot be called a flat. There is scarcely a field from which the water does not readily fall, and yet there is nothing which can be called a hill. Old deeds so call Norrington common, which cannot be more than 50 feet above the level of the river. In the south, including the railway, the upper soil is a fine mould, resting on a bed of gravel, which again rests on Oxford clay, increasing in consistency according to depth. These beds are of varying thickness. The mould, geologice brick earth, is three or four feet thick before it touches the gravel: which again is as thick, before the clay is reached. Sometimes, where the ground By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 59 begins to rise from the river meadows, the gravel is much nearer the surface. In the northern and higher part of the parish, fur- ther from the river, there is no gravel. The subsoil is also clay, but of a different character to that beneath the gravel, more porous and sandy; having beneath it, at a considerable depth, the same Oxford clay. Here, also, the upper soil is of varying thickness ; and, as the gravel in the south, so the clay here, comes near the surface, when the ground increases in elevation. The gravel is known to geologists as "Mammalian drift," from its frequently containing remains of those animals. It consists of debris and rolled fragments of those secondary rocks which belong to the lower, middle, upper oolite, and cretaceous groups, particularly great oolite, forest marble, cornbrash, Kelloways rock, calcareous grit, coral rag, Kimmeridge clay, green sand, chalk, and chalk- flints. All these materials were furnished in the immediate neigh- bourhood, by those hills which I have mentioned as encircling our happy valley. This gravel contains great numbers of Ammonites and Belemnites out of the Oxford clay, much rolled and worn, also many land and fresh water shells. It has been extensively quar- ried in the parish, for the purpose of ballasting the lines of railway to Salisbury and Weymouth. So, a scientific traveller, meeting with these remains at a distant station, will know where they come from. There are irregular thin seams of sand in this drift, containing several species of Rhizopods, or Forameniferous shells, exceedingly minute, but very beautiful under a microscope. They are often injured by rolling, but their very preservation shows that the de- posit must have been very quietly formed.1 At the bottom of the gravel, and on the surface of the Oxford clay, are found (wherever the railway cutting is sufficiently deep) numerous vertebrae and fe- mora of Saurians. There also, in a portion of the glebe, were lying a fractured portion of a gigantic deer's horn, and a beautiful piece of ivory tusk, 2 ft. 4 in. long, with an average circumference of 9 in., as white as on the day when it parted from its owner. It was 1 For the names of these shells and for a section of our geological system, I refer to Mr. Cunnington's interesting paper in vol. iv. p. 131 of the Magazine. The sand seams are, it strikes me, rather too thick in the wood-cut there. 60 Broughton Gifford. placed in the museum of the Bath Institution. Many more such remains would be brought to light, were the cuttings made for scientific, rather than for utilitarian purposes. Descending we come to, the Oxford clay, which is full of large septaria, masses of stone intersected by septa or seams of calcareous matter, which others have called, from their appearance, "tortoise stones," but which we, with our dairy associations, name "cheeses." The moral and physical influences of the geology of this district on man, is a subject which has engaged the attention of John Au- brey. " According to the severall sorts of earth in England (and so all the world over) the indigence are respectively witty or dull, good or bad. In JST. Wiltshire (a dirty clayey country) the indi- gence or aborigines speake drawlinge; they are phlegmatique, skins pale and livid, slow and dull, heavy of spirit: hereabout is but little tillage or hard labour, they only milk the cowes and make cheese; they feed chiefly on milke meates, which cools their braines too much, and hurts their inventions. These circumstances make them melancholy, contemplative, and malicious : by consequence whereof, come more law suites out of N. Wilts, at least double to the Southern parts. And by the same reason they are generally more apt to be fanatiques ; their persons are generally plump and feggy; gallipot eies, and some black; but they are generally hand- some enough." This is a melancholy picture of the state of things here 200 years since. We have not been able, in the interval, ab- solutely to " alter the sort of earth" on which we live ; but we hope that by clearing away the forest, by draining, by more tillage, and by general agricultural improvement, (to say nothing of moral and intellectual agencies), we have considerably modified its ill effects, and are the better in body and in mind accordingly. Water. Avon, Even, Sevon, or Severn, is the appropriate name of rivers whose course is smooth and gentle j1 and our part of the lower 1 " There is a gentle nymph not far from hence, That with moist curb sways the smooth Severn stream, Saljrina is her name." — Milton's Comus. " Oh, could I flow like thee ! and make thy stream My great example, as it is my theme : By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 61 Avon (so called to distinguish it from the upper or Warwickshire river, though not happily, for there is another Avon in Wilts, lower still) does not belie its ancient British designation. The stream is not anywhere rapid : except at Monkton ford, it passes on, with a gentle current of a mile an hour, at a depth of 10 or 15 feet, between banks 3 feet high which it has cut for itself through the rich alluvial soil. " Rura, quae Liris quieta Mordet aqua, taciturnus amnis." The easiness of its flow may be estimated from the fact, that between Bradford and Bath, about 12 miles, the Canal which runs by the river side is without a lock. The water is apt, whenever increased by freshets or floods, to cover the level meadows by its side. In 1852 the floods were unprecedented, both in height and frequency. That of June 9 was the highest within memory. This was followed by others, on August 11, September 6, November 8 which lasted till the 16th, being at its highest on the 12th at 11 p.m. when the water ran into the Bear Inn at Melksham. On the 24th the river again rose to an extraordinary height. These floods lay about 80 acres in this parish under water. As to its source, our Avon, a North Wiltshire river, rises very appropriately in the territory of Mr. Sotheron Estcourt, one of our North Wiltshire members. There are two small streams, often dry in summer, one coming from Weston-Birt, the other from the hollow below the town of Tetbury ; they meet at the head of the lake in Estcourt Park, where they are joined by a copious source of water always running. The lake, a picturesque piece of orna- mental water, about a mile long, was formed by damming up the lower extremity of the valley, about 60 years since, by the grand- father of the present proprietor. This may be taken to be the source of the river Avon. The boundary line between the two counties of Gloucester and Wilts passes through the middle of the lake, and follows the right bank of the stream for about a mile till Though deep, yet clear ; though gentle yet not dull ; Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full." Sir John Denham. Pliny drew the comparison between life and a river. Sir H. Davy has "beau- tifully extended it in prose (Salmonia), Mrs. Hemans in verse. 62 Broughton Gifford. it touches Foss bridge, where Acmari street, part of the Roman road or Fosse way from Bath (Aquce Solis) to Cirencester (Corinium), crosses the stream, and marks the boundary South westward for nearly two miles more. On its emerging from the lake, the river is wholly in Wilts, whilst in the womb of the lake, Gloucestershire must be allowed to claim half the honours of its birth. Winding through a narrow and tortuous valley it reaches, in five miles, Malmesbury, where it is joined by Newnton stream, a not inconsi- derable brook, from Badminton through Easton Grey : in six miles, still tortuous, it reaches Dauntsey ; four more carry it to Christian Malford; one more to the Great Western Railway; three more to its junction with the Marden, a stream receiving various contributions from the western slopes of the Marlborough Downs, communicating with the lake at Bowood and flowing by Stanley Abbey : two miles with a wide loop take it to Chippenham ; five more, with many a bend, to Lacock Abbey, four and a half more somewhat straighter to Melksham, two and a half, also pretty direct, to Monkton. In all, thirty-three miles from Estcourt lake to Broughton. About seven miles south-west of Cirencester on the Roman way, where it crosses the Thames and Severn canal, in the parish of Kemble, is the source of the river Isis, or rather of the Thames. Both rivers rise in the same stratum, stone corn-brash or bastard Oolite. The water-shed between the two sources (divortium aquarum), turning the Avon to the south and the Thames to the east, is a spur of the Cotswold range, thrown out from the main line by way of Rodmarton, into the clay vale, bounded by Minety to the east and by Somerford to the west. It has been held by Bergmaun that, in mountain chains running north and south, the western slope is most abrupt, while in chains running east and west the southern slope is the steepest.1 What- ever be the correctness of this law, here there is certainly an example of it. The direction of the Cotswold range is S.S.E. by N.N.W. and its steepest side looks west, while the inclination on 1 The most striking example of the great geographer's theory is the Scandi- navian mountain chain, with its scarped precipices facing the Atlantic. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 6$ the eastern slope is mostly easy. The spur in question is no excep- tion ; the ascent from the vale of Minety is gentle and continuous. The river scenery changes, gradually increasing in interest. Here the stream, strongly coloured by the alluvial deposit through which it eats its way, flows between meadow banks ; a few miles- lower down, towards Bath, it passes through deep and green val- leys ; further on still, at Clifton, through rock and wood. With' us its beauty is of a more tranquil, though never of a tame charac- ter. The reaches, now straight now winding, the volume of water,, the dipping willows and bulky elms by the side, the banks gay with the purple loose-strife, bull-rushes, and broad-flags; the shel- tered nooks of the surface, paved with the platter-like leaf, and yellow flower of the water lily ; the level meadows dotted with large grazing beasts, sheep and horses; the gentle slopes which lead the eye to the distance beyond, the sharp angular outline of Round way, the more curved lines of Sandridge and Bowden Hills, the straighter barrier of the Plain, the crowned heights of Monkton Farleigh ; in the mid distance, the different farm homesteads, the- factory chimnies and Church tower of Melksham, reminding of the- business of this life and the happiness of a better, — " In the mixture of all these appears Variety, which all the rest endears." The parish is otherwise well watered. The brook, from which it takes its name, flows through its south-western part. Broughtom brook rises in the southern slope of Kingsdown, behind Monkton Far- leigh House, close to the Monks' Well. The water is thence conveyed in pipes to a large cistern, supplying once the Monastery and now the great house on its site. It is then lost for a time " underneath the ground," but re-appears again in different spots on the hill's side, "where the morn's sun doth look," in Park wood, in a large fish pond, at Rushmead, till "the struggling water breaks out in a brook,"1 crossing the road leading from Monkton Farleigh to Wraxhall and dividing those two parishes; crosses the road again below Little Chalfield Poor House, passes Little Chalfield and Great Chalfield, skirts a hazel wood, cuts its way deep in the alluvial soiL 1 Beaumont and Fletcher's 1 Faithful Shepherdess,' before quoted. 64 Broiujhton Qifford. through the meadows, between a double file of pollard withies, reaches Broughton church in a course of about seven miles, and is finally lost in the Avon near some fine elms at Monkton. About six furlongs to the north of the church, it is joined by another and smaller stream, which rises near Mr. Long's manor house at Wrax- hall, also on the southern slope of Kingsdown, whence it struggles on its way between hawthorns, withies, nuts, and now and then a pollard oak, most "unwedgeable and gnarled with very knotty en- trails" indeed, the eccentricities of whose growth would be remark- able on a transverse section, till it mingles with its future associate, a fine pollard standing sentinel at the point of junction. Climate. The climate of a district in this part of England chiefly depends on its elevation above the sea level, its slope or the aspect which it presents to the sun's rays, the prevalent winds, the nature of the soil, the degree of agricultural improvement, the direction of the mountain ranges, and the fall of rain. Our elevation is not considerable. The top of the church tower is only 192 feet above the level of the sea.1 The slope of the sur- face is to the south. The prevalent winds are westerly. Kings- down shelters us to the north. The temperature, as influenced by all these causes, would be mild. The scenery is that of Somerset- shire, and the climate, both in regard of heat and moisture, would be the same, were it not extensively modified by the mountain ranges, the character of the soil there, and the winds which come thence, Marlborough downs and the high table land of the Plain, both with a porous soil, and within ten miles, to the east and south. The Cots wolds to the north are not more than fourteen, as the wind travels, and their offsets come within three. The Subsoil of that district near us is Cornbrash. These causes sharpen, as well as purify our atmosphere. Neither do we have as much rain as might be expected from our position on the map. Mountain ranges no 1 This information is derived from the Ordnance Map Office, Southampton. As they are not published, I give, on the same authority, some other heights in this neighbourhood, Westbury down 752 feet, Monument on Farleigh down (top) 733, Steeple Ashton church (top of pinnacles) 358, Bromham church, do. 437, Seend church (top of tower) 348, Trowbridge spire (top) 286: all above the level of the sea. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 65 doubt attract the vapours generated in warmer regions, condense, and discharge them in rain. But this influence depends much on two circumstances: the height of the mountains themselves and their consequent power of attraction, and their proximity to the Atlantic, that great reservoir of moisture for the whole of Western Europe. The hills about us are insignificant compared with others which lie between them and the sea. Rain usually comes, in these latitudes, from the west and south-west, that is from the ocean. But in that direction lie the Purbeck and Dorset heights, Black- down, Dartmoor (Causand Beacon is 1792 feet), Exmoor (Dunkery Beacon 1668), Quantock 1000, Mendip 1100 (levying all those con- tributions from the Bristol Channel with which we should other- wise be favoured). The highest portions too of the Cotswolds are at a distance, on the northern portion of that range, near the War- wickshire Avon; Cleeve Hill 1134, Broadway Beacon 1086, are 45 miles off in a straight line. These circumstances may perhaps account for the popular reputation which this valley has of being dry and healthy. A Barometrical record has been kept for the three years ending with 1853. The observations were taken at 8*30 a.m., and, when the weather seemed to require it, the instrument was watched dur- ing the day. I subjoin a table of the readings. Months. Means. 1851. Maxima. Minima. Means. 1852, Maxima. Minima. Means. 1853. Maxima. { Minima. January 29-59 30-20 28-88 29-95 30-22 28-91 29-56 30-06 29-15 February 29-75 30-30 29-30 29-89 30-80 29-11 29-52 30 05 28-85 March 29-60 30-24 28-57 30-03 30-62 29-29 29-78 30-04 29-40 April 29-73 30-03 29-31 30-02 30-70 29-52 29-67 3019 29-20 May 29-92 30-38 29-43 29-84 30-30 29-51 29-77 30-05 29-54 June 29-97 30-29 29-55 29-63 29-85 29-16 29-78 30-08 29-50 July 29-80 30-06 29-41 29-94 30-08 29-78 29-80 30-17 29-25 August 29-95 30-27 29-65 29-20 30-21 28-79 29-94 30-80 29-11 September 30-09 30-48 2927 29-74 30-38 28-96 29-88 30-32 29-20 October 29-76 30-29 28-83 29-82 30-24 28-80 29-53 29-96 28-95 November 29-81 30-35 29-27 29-46 3010 28-72 29-29 30-46 29-57 December 30-41 3044 29-35 29-56 30-01 28-90 29-83 30-25 29-22 Annual Means. 29-865 29-756 29-748 E 66 Broughton Gifford. I am enabled, through the kindness of the late Mr. Belville of the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, to give his observations there during the same period. Months. Means. 1851. Maxima, j Minima. Means. 1852. Maxima. Minima. Means. 1853. Maxima. Minima. January 29-75 30-33 29-15 29-71 30-35 29-01 29-64 30-18 29-02 February 29-99 30-40 2941 29-95 30-64 29-08 29-60 30-17 28-96 March 29-70 Zo DO 30-10 30-72 29-18 29-86 30-15 29-36 April 29-82 OU 16 ZV JO 30-04 30-30 29-51 29 79 30-24 29-22 May 29-98 30-46 29-57 29-87 30-21 29-57 29-83 30-12 29-44 June 29-99 30-34 29-50 29-64 30-00 29-18 29-80 30-11 29-50 July 29-80 30-11 29-42 ; 29-93 30-11 29-66 29-82 30-19 29-20 August 30-00 30-34 29-50 29-73 30-20 29-02 29-88 30-29 29-11 September 30-12 30-57 29-39 ! 29-83 30-44 28-87 29-90 30-36 29-02 October 29-81 30-33 29-03 29-76 30-43 28-74 29-63 30-04 28-91 November 29-86 30-45 29-30 i 29-53 30-14 28-86 30-02 30-49 29-64 December 30-22 30-51 29-50 29-66 30-29 28-99 29-85 30-33 29-16 Annual Means. 29-920 29-812 29-801 A few obvious remarks occur on a comparison of the above tables. At Broughton Gifford during 1851 the means were lower for every month, except December, when *19 higher. The maxima were invariably lower. The minima lower every month except August, when *15 higher. At Broughton Gifford during 1852 the means lower every month except January, July, and October, when respectively '24, '01, *06 higher. But the means run each other very close this year, except in August, when there is a difference of '53 in favour of G reenwich. The maxima lower every month except February, April, May, and August, when respectively *16, '40, "09, "01 higher. The minima lower every month except March, April, July, September, October, (nearly half the year), when respectively *21, '01, "12, *09, *06 higher. At Broughton Gifford during 1853, the means lower every month except August, when '06 higher. Maxima lower every month ex- cept August, when *51 higher. Minima lower every month except January, March, May, July, September, October, December, (more By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 67 than half the year), when respectively '13, '04, *10, *05, *18, *04, •06, higher. The general conclusion, to which this comparison leads, would seem to be, that on the whole the climate of Broughton Gifford is less hot, and less dry, than that of Greenwich ; heat and moisture being the principal causes of variations in the weight of the atmos- phere, and consequently of the mercury's rise or fall in the tube of the barometer. If there be any exception, it would be that the atmosphere appears less heavy at Broughton Gifford in August. A comparison of the annual means for the three years at the two places supports this general conclusion, and shows the amount of difference between Broughton Gifford and Greenwich. In 1851, 1852, 1853, the readings were lower here respectively "055, *056, •053. The great similarity, and almost uniformity of the figures is remarkable, and is a sort of test of the accuracy of the observa- tions in both places. The mean of three years is almost identical with that for any one year, being -0546 (rather more than l-20th of an inch), which figures express the regular depression of the atmosphere at Broughton Gifford (as far as can be inferred from three years observations) below that of Greenwich. This may be taken to be a favourable testimony to the climate here, for Kent (it should be remembered) is one of the driest, and, in summer, one of the hottest counties in England. There are few places where the barometer ranges higher than at Greenwich. Were the comparison made between the general climate of Eng- land and that of Broughton Gifford, the result would be greatly in our favour. True, the years 1852, 1853, (particularly the former), were very exceptional in their atmospheric character. But then they were exceptional in the West, as well as in the East of England. It may be worth while, as they have never been published, to mark a few of these meteorological discrepancies for 1852, as observed at Green- wich. The general annual Barometrical mean, as deduced from a comparison of thirty consecutive years ending 1844, is 29*870. In 1852 it was 29 '812, and this in spite of the drjmess of that year's spring, when the barometer ranged far above the average. But e 2 68 Broughton Giffortl. as we proceed in the year, we soon find the cause of its low annual jj mean. During the five last months of the year it was continually depressed below 29. On August 11th the mercury was depressed here to 28*79. On November 16th it was at 2872. The alterna- tions in the rise and fall of the mercury were violent and rapid. It sometimes rose *8 in eight hours, and was often highest, and the weather finest, just before the greatest fall. In November there was only one fine day, the 18th, the day of the Duke's funeral. The whole atmosphere was charged with electricity, thunder and lightning were continual. This was owing to the disturbance of the equilibrium of the atmosphere by excessive evaporation; for during all this bad weather the range of the thermometer was far above the average. The winter of 1834 was thought remarkable for its high temperature; the thermometer in December being 55°. But in November 1852 it was 61°*8, and in December 56°. The mean for those months, on an average of thirty-five years, has been observed to be 43°*62, 39°- 41; but in 1852 it was 48°*6, 46°7. The exceptional character of the weather in 1852 appears further from the measurements of the rain gauge. The average annual fall of rain at Greenwich is about 24 inches. But in 1852 it was 35*52 inches; and that again in spite of the dry spring; in March and April only 0 525 inch fell, one-sixth of the usual quantity. As we proceed in the year, the figures soon begin to mount up. On the 7th and two following days of June, 2*34 inches fell, more than on any three consecutive days for at least twenty-six years. On August 11th more than 1 inch. During August and the three following months 18*81 inches fell, an amount never before observ- ed in Kent. In November alone there were upwards of 6 inches. The inundations all over the country were excessive. Of those here mention has already been made. The Flora of Broughton Gtifford1 Is not without interest to the Botanist. The following is an enu- meration of some of the more interesting plants that have been 1 For this Parochial Flora my best thanks are due to Mr. Thomas Bruges Flower. By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. 69 observed, from time to time, in the neighbourhood, and is now drawn up, not because it will be found to contain any very remark- able species, but in the hope that it may be the means of attracting the attention of those persons who may feel desirous to pursue the study of this interesting science, to the Botany of their own im- mediate district. Hanunculacece. Clematis vitalba, L. Anemone nemorosa, L. Ranunculus aquatilis, L. R ficaria, L. R auricomus, L. R acris, L. R ■ repens, L. R bulbosus, L. R arvensis, L. Caltha palustris, L. Nymplueacece. Nuphar lutea, S. Papaveracece. Papaver dubium, L. P rhseas, L. Chelidonium majus, L. Fumariacecs. Fumaria officinalis, L. Cruciferce. Capsella Bursa pastoris, D.C. Armoracia rusticana, B. Draba verna, L. Cardamine pratensis, L. C hirsuta, L. Barbarea vulgaris, B. Nasturtium officinale, B. Sisymbrium officinale, S. Erysimum Alliaria, L. Cheiranthus Cheiri, L. Brassica campestris, L. Sin apis arvensis, L. S ■ alba, L. S nigra, L. Violacece. Yiola odorata, b. alba. A. Y — sylvatica, F. Y— tricolor, L. Caryophyllacem, Silene inflata, L. Lychnis flos-cuculi, L. L diurna, S. L Yespertina, S. Arenaria serphyllifolia, L, Stellaria media, W. S ■ Holostea, L. S graminea, L. S uliginosa, M. Cerastium aquaticum, L. C glomeratum, S. C triviale, L. C ■ semidecandrum, L. Linacece. Linum catbarticum, L. 31alvacea. Malva sylvestris, L. M — rotundifolia, L. Hyper -icacece. Hypericum perforatum, L. H quadrangulum, L. H hirsutum, L. Aceracecs. Acer campestre, L. Geraniacece. Geranium pratense, L. G ■ — molle, L. Gr lucidum, L, Gr robertianum, L. Celastracece. Euonymus europseus, L. Leguminiferce. TJlex europreus, L. Ononis arvensis, L. Medicago lupulina, L. Melilotus officinalis, L. Trifolium repens, L. T pratense, L. T procumbens, L. Lotus corniculatus, L. L — major, S. 70 B rough-ton Gifford. Vicia cracca, L. V — sativa, L. V — sepium, L. V — hirsuta, K. Lathyrus pratensis, L. Itosacece. Prunus spinosa, L, Spirsea Ulmaria, L. Genoa urbanum, L. Agrimonia Eupatoria, L. Potentilla anserina, L. P Tormentilla, S. p fragariastrum, E. Rubus fruticosus, A. R rhamnifolius, W. and N. Rosa canina, L. R — arvensis, L. Poterium Sanguisorba, L. Crataegus Oxyacantha, L. Pyrus malus, L. Onagraeecs. Epilobium hirsutum, L. E parviflorum, S, E montantim, L. Haloragiacece. Callitriche verna, L. Lythracece* Lythrum salicaria, L. Curcurbitacece. Bryonia dioica, L„ Crassulacccs, Sednm Acre, L. Saxifragacece* Saxifraga tridactylites, L. Chrysosplenium oppositifbliun, L. Araliacece. Adoxa moschatellina, L. Hedera Helix, L. Cornacece. Cornns sanguinea, L. TJmbellifera. Conium maeulatum, L. Helosciadium nodillorum, K. Bunium nexuosum, W. Pimpinella Saxifraga, L, Sium angustifolium, L. (Enanthe crocata, L. iEthusa cynapium, L. Silaus pratensis, B, Pastinaca sativa, L. Daucus carota, L. Torilis anthriscus, G„ Scandix pecten, L. Anthriscus Sylvestris, H. Chserophyllum temulentum, L. Caprifoliaceee. Sambucus nigra, L. Viburnum opulus, L. Lonicera Periclymenum, L. Rubiacece. Galium verum, L. G palustre, L. G Mollugo, L. G Aparine, L. Valerianacece, Valeriana officinalis, L. Fedia olitoria, V. Dipsacece, Dipsacus sylvestris, L. Knautia arvensis, C. Compositce. Helminthia echioides, G, Trincia hirta, R. Apargia hispida, W. A autumnalis, W. Hypocbseris radicata, L, Sonchus arvensis S— oleraceus Crepis virens Hieracium pilosella, L. Taraxacum officinale, W. Lapsana communis, L. Cichorium Intybus, L. Arctium lappa, L. Carduus nutans, L. C acanthoides, L. C lanceolatus, L. C arvensis, C. Centaurea nigrescens, A. C scabiosa, L. Eupatorium cannabinum, L. Tanacetum vulgare, L. Artemisia vulgaris, L. Gnaphalium uliginosum, L. Filago germanica, L. Tussilago Farf'ara, L. Senecio vulgaris, L. S eruca?folius, L By the Rev. J. Wilkinson. Senecio Jacobsea, L. S aquaticus, H. Inula conyza, D.C. Pulicaria dysenterica, Or, Bellis perenuis, L. Chrysanthemum leucanthemum, L. Matricaria chamomilla, L. Achillea Millefolium. L. Jasminacece. Ligustrum vulgare, L. Fraxinus excelsior, L. Convolvulacece. Convolvulus arvensis, L. C sepiuin, L. 8cropludariace-divided into two parts and enclosed by dykes. These two sub-divisions are the "two Parks" mentioned in the text. 3 The chief of them being the Rev. Alfred Smith, who possesses a handsome residence there. By Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 127 See of Salisbury without further disturbance for about 500 years, and, as usual with this kind of property, has passed through the hands of successive Lessees, under the Bishop. The Lessee, called the Lord Farmer, held his two courts annually, a Court Baron and a Court Leet, on the site of an ancient Manor House, which has long since disappeared. In 1 Richard II. (a.d. 1377) Bishop Erghum1 obtained leave from the Crown to make castellated houses, ("crenellare sua man- eria") at Cannings and Potterne: adding as it would seem, in this parish, a ditch and rampart: for of these some traces are still per- ceptible. At the Court of Cannings, the Farm of Bupton (in the parish of Cliff Pypard, but Hundred of Potterne) used formerly to render an annual payment, as holding of the Bishop. Bupton belonged for a great many years to an old family of the name of Quintin : so far back, it would seem, as the Domesday survey: for in the ex- tract from that Record relating to the Bishop's manor of Cannings (or Kainingham) given above, among the landowners under the See, appears the name of "Quintin, 3 hides." (See p. 125.) The payment of Is. 6d. "Lawday silver," for Bupton, continued to be made so late as 1661. Among the " Lords Farmers" who have held this episcopal estate on lease, the oldest name that has been met with, is that of Thomas Southam: who in 1402, as "Firmarius de Canyngges," also nom- inated the vicar.2 In 1616 Robert Drew, Esq. of Southbroom was a Lessee. In 1637 Thomas Shuter. In 1639 Mr., afterwards, Sir Robert Hen- ley, of Henley, Co. Somerset. [See Burke's Extinct Baronets.] In 1646, under the temporary domination of the anti-church party, an Act was passed for abolishing Archbishops and Bishops : 1 Ralph Erghum, Bishop of Salisbury 1375 — 1388, seems to have been a timid man, or to have lived in unsettled times: for he fortified, not only his houses at Potterne and Cannings when Bishop of Salisbury, but also, when removed to Wells, the Episcopal palace there: surrounding it with the moat and walls, &c, as seen at the present day. 2Sarum Registers. In the same year a Thomas Southam (perhaps the same person) appears as Magister Choristarum and Patron of Preshute, 128 Bishop's Cannings, and a valuation of their estates for sale, was ordered. The annual value of the Bishop's estate here was found to be £218 8s., capable of improvement to the amount of £469 13s. 2d. per annum, in addition. ' Between a.d. 1647 and 1651 it was sold to Samuel Wightwick, Esq. for £6065 15s. 7d. But in 1660, on the return of Charles II., the Bishop's lands were restored: and Sir Robert Henley accordingly continued as Lessee. About this time a small portion was alienated, as will be described under "Chittoe" Ty thing. Sir Edward Nicholas, Kt. was at this time the principal landowner in the parish. (Subsidy Boll.) On 6th January 1661, Sir Robert Henley sold the rest of his interest in the lease to Sir William Turner, merchant tailor and Alderman of London, for £8700. 2 The next Lessee was Mr. Paul Methuen, mentioned by Aubrey, as "of Bradford and Bishop's Cannings." He died 1667. His son inherited, and died 1725: having in Sep- tember 1720 sold it to Benjamin Haskins Styles, Esq. On his death it descended to Sir Francis Haskins Eyles Styles, who sold it in Chancery. Mr. Willy the purchaser, was succeeded by his nephew, son of his sister the wife of Mr. Prince Sutton, in 1762. Mr. Sutton's daughter and heiress was Eleanor, wife of Thomas Grimston Estcourt, Esq. In a.d. 1856, his son, the Rt. Hon. Thomas Henry Sutton Sotheron Estcourt, having experienced diffi- culties as to the renewal of his lease under the Bishop of Salisbury, (occasioned by a rule of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, to allow of no renewal of leases in which they have a reversionary interest,) determined to dispose of his interest in the episcopal manor, and accordingly in 1858 sold this with other property in the parish to the Commissioners of Land Revenue, that is, to the Crown. Ty thing of Bourton and Easton (Consolidated). Bourton was one of the seats of the ancient family of Ernie,3 2 Sir Wra. Turner, Lord Mayor of London in 1669, was the munificent Founder of a Hospital and Free School at Kirk-Leatham in Yorkshire, where he was buried. His nephew aud heir was Cholraley Turner, Esq. 3 Originally from Co. Sussex. The Attorney -General to King Henry VIII. (1 ")10) spelled his name John Erneley. By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 129 who came into possession of this property in the time of Henry VIII. ; John son of William de Ernie having purchased the estate on the dissolution of the monasteries ; the land being said to have been Priory property, but for this we only have vague traditional autho- rity, no account of any religious house there, being to be found in any of the best works on the subject. The Ernie property at Echil- hampton belonged to the ancient family of Malwyn, came into the Ernie family with Joan Best wife of John Ernie, who had pro- perty also in another part of this parish which will be mentioned ; at Echilhampton in the neighbouring parish of All-Cannings; at Maddington, and elsewhere in Wilts. Their residence at Bour- ton has long been converted into a farm house. It seems to have been a large mansion, gradually lessened as different parts fell into dilapidation. Much of the building was removed a few years ago, and there is no difficulty in tracing foundations of other portions. The walks, orchards, and fish-ponds, still discernible through the changes which the face of the residence and grounds have under- gone, sufficiently indicate the wealth and importance of the Ernie family. Their estate here, called in the deeds of the family, "the manor farm of Bourton, within the manor of Bishop's Cannings, " was conveyed by deed dated 10 March, 5 Charles I., by Sir John Ernie of Whetham (near Calne) son and heir of Michael Ernie, Esq. and Dame Margaret his wife, and by his son and heir, to Robert Blackborrow of Bristol, brewer. Peter Blackborrow of Bourton, gentleman, by deed dated the 28th of June 1658, conveys the said manor to Robert Henley, Esq. of the Middle Temple, London, (already mentioned as a Lessee of Cannings.) Sir Robert Henley of the Grange, in the county of Southampton, knight, by deed dated 5th December, 19 Charles II., conveys it to Henry Wool- nough of Bramsholt, in the said county of Southampton, clerk ; from Henry it descended to Joshua Woolnough his son, and from him to Rollstone Woolnough his son. By will, dated 16th Nov. 1757, Rollstone Woolnough devised the manor to his three sisters for their lives: and upon their deaths to his niece Elizabeth Smyth, wife of John Hugh Smyth, Esq. eldest son of Sir Jarrit Smyth, bart. Lady Smyth left her estate in this ty thing to the Rev. Israel 130 Bishop's Cannings. Lewis, and after his death the trustees, under his will, sold it to George Skeate Euddle the present possessor. The other proprietors in Bourton are Mr. Thomas Brown, Mr. Thomas Giddings, and the Commissioners of the Inland Revenue, to whom (as already mentioned) the Rt. Hon. T. H. S. Sotheron Estcourt has recently disposed of his interest as -Lessee under the Bishop of Salisbury. In Bourton and Easton, Sir Edward Nicholas, Sir Robert Hen- ley, Mr. Hayward, Sir William Turner, and William Sloper were owners in 1660. Ty thing of Cote (now Coate.) In 9 Edward II. (1319) this was shared by two owners, William de Cotes, and John Mautravers. The latter portion had belonged (Richard I. and Henry III.) to Sir Walter Mautravers. His de- scendant John Lord Maltravers, one of the cruel keepers of the unfortunate Edward II., obtained in the 12th year of that reign, a charter of Free warren for this and his other demesne lands in this county. He died in 1365 leaving no male issue surviving : and this estate passed by the marriage of his grand-daughter Eleanor to Reginald Lord Cobham of Sterborough. His son Reginald, dying in his father's lifetime, left a daughter Margaret who married Ralph Nevill Earl of Westmoreland (who died 1485) and carried with her these and other estates into his family.1 In the beginning of the 16th century, we find an estate here in the possession of the Ernley family, from whom it passed in the following manner to its present possessors. Sir Edward Ernley married a daughter of General Thomas Erie, by whom he had two daughters. One of these died unmarried; the other was the wife of Henry Drax, Esq., by whom she had a son Thomas Erie Drax, Esq. To this gentleman his maternal grandfather Sir Edward bequeathed his estates at Cote and Echilhampton. Thomas Erie Drax dying without issue, was succeeded by his bro- ther Edward Drax, Esq., whose daughter married Richard Grosve- nor, Esq., by whom she had a daughter, who married J. Wanley 1 "Canynge Marsh" belonged to Edward Nevill Lord Bergavenny, who died 16 Edward IV. (1476) 1. p. m. By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 131 Sawbridge, Esq. In addition to his own paternal name, he assumed that of Erie Drax : and the descendants of this marriage are now the joint proprietors of this estate. Mr. George Elgar Sloper, Mr. Clarke, Mr. Thomas Brown, and Mr. Harris are the other proprietors at Cote. To the last named gentleman belongs the farm of Cold-cote; sometimes miscalled Calcot, or Cold croft. "Cold-cotes in Cote" belonged in 49 Edward III. (a.d. 1375), and in 13 Richard II. (a.d. 1389) to the family of Hastings, Earl of Pembroke. (I. p. m.) In later times, it belonged to Mr. Weston ; from whom it was bought by Mr. William Salmon. He sold it to Mr. Samuel Adlam who left it to his daughter, the wife of the Rev. Henry Baynton. From him it was purchased by Mr. Line, whose trustees disposed of it to Mr. Harris. Tything of Hotiton. Among the landowners in the manor of Cannings who used to be charged, temp. John and Henry III., with an annual pa}rment towards the expenses of guarding Devizes Castle, are mentioned Alan de St. George, William de Derham, and Owayn de Inemane, for their lands in Horton. Horton is mentioned in the Inquis. post mortem as held of the manor of Canynges in 17 Richard II. (1393) by Cicely wife of Sir Nicholas Berkeley. In 2 Henry IV. (1400) Sir John Roche, kt., died owner. His estate passed to the Bayntons of Eallersdon, and was their's in 1465 and 1475. In 1517 John Vinor was principal landowner here. ( Subsidy Roll.) In temp. Charles I. Thomas Wes- ton, gent. In 41 Elizabeth (1597) some part of this Tything bore the name of Horton Quarles.1 The landowners in Horton, about 1665, were Sir Edward Nicho- las, Sir William Turner, Benjamin Gifford, Esq. of Boreham, Thomas Weston, and John Unwyn, Esqs. of Yabington, Hants. Mr. Un- wyn was the largest proprietor. Part of his estate passed to Mr. 1 In 1315 Quarle was owner of half the manor of Luckington in North Wilts. Quarles is a name found at Salisbury in 1597. 132 Bishop's Cannings. Bennett (? of Steeple Ashton) and from him to Mr. Smith his son- in-law. He sold it to Mr. Adams of whom it was purchased by Dr. Rigge. He left two daughters coheiresses, one of whom mar- ried — Worrell Esq., and the other, James Rooke, Esq., a Major in the army. This now belongs to Mrs. Rooke. Another portion of Mr. Unwyn's estate came to James Sutton, Esq., of Devizes, who took it in exchange for some other property nearer to that town. It has also passed from the Rt. Hon. Mr. Estcourt (as before mentioned) to the Commissioners of Inland Revenue. Mr. Thomas Brown inherited his house and premises from a near relative ; it formed originally part of the property of a Mr. Weston whose sister succeeding to it, married Mr. Simon Ruddle, who be- queathed it to his niece Mrs. Lawrence, by whom it was left to Mr. Thomas Brown. Mr. Thomas Giddings also holds in this tything a freehold farm of about 150 acres. II. Ohapelry of St. James, Southbroom. This division of the parish consists of four tythings, viz. Round- way, Wick, Nursteed, and Bedborough ; and contains altogether nearly 3000 acres, with a population according to the census of 1851 of 2517 souls. It is assessed to the Poor at £7980 9s. lOd. In all temporal matters these two divisions of the parish are dis- tinct: in spiritual things they were till within these few years un- der one head, and the vicar of Bishop's Cannings had the cure of souls here, as in the rest of the parish. In 1831, at the instance of the vicar, with the aid of an Act of George II., it was made a Perpetual Curacy, and a separate Incumbent provided for it on the nomination of the vicar of the mother-church. All the tythings, mentioned as constituting this parochial chapelry, are within the manor of Bishop's Cannings, and Mr. Sotheron Estcourt whilst lord farmer, exercised the manorial rights. Besides the Bishop of Salisbury, there are other large proprietors in this part of the parish. Among these, the chiefs are Mr. Estcourt, Mrs. Colston, Mr. Watson Taylor, and Mr. Ewart. By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 133 SoutJihvoom. is perhaps so called, to distinguish it from a small hamlet in the more Northern part of Wilts, Brome near Swindon. In 2 Henry III. (1217) Godfrey de Clifton and John de Holt, clerk, represented the Bishop here. In 11 Henry III. (a.d. 1226) a Fair was granted, and in 12 Richard II. (a.d. 1388) was con- firmed to the Bishop of Salisbury, to be held at Southbroom ("ad Suth Bram extra villam de Devizes"). It was held on the Green, a portion of the waste of the lord of the manor, of which the Bishop had toll, and which toll is still paid, the fair being held on 20th April and 20th October in each year. In 1439 Thomas Norton of this place held under lease from John Fyton, lands in Canyngs episcopi, Stert, Vyse-wj^ke, and elsewhere in the neighbourhood.1 About 1498 it became the property of the Drew family, in whose hands it continued for 200 years, to (about) 1680. Drew's pond near Devizes still bears their name; which is found in many entries in the registers, and on monuments, in the churches of St. James and St. John. In 1615 was printed a Ser- mon called "Life's Farewell" from Sam. xiv. 14, preached on the death of John Drew, Esq. by George Ferreby, Yicar of Bishop's Cannings. A copy of this is in Magd. Coll. Library, Oxford. Robert, son of this John Drew was M.P. for Devizes 1597 — 1625. 2 1 Wilts Arch. Magazine, I. 288, No. 46. 2 It has been stated in Vol. iii. p. 177 of this Magazine, that in a deed of temp. Henry VII., the first Lessee of Southbroom is called John Trewe; and that this is the oldest form of the name at this place. On this point our Editor has observed to me that he is not acquainted with Trewe as a Wiltshire genti- litial name: but that Drew was an ancient and abundant name in the Western counties, and, as such, still adheres to three parishes which some have considered, but as he thinks quite erroneously, to have been called after the Druids : viz .. Drew's Teignton (Co. Devon), Stanton Drew (Co. Som.) and Littleton Drew (Co. Wilts). There were also in North Wilts, Drews of Seagry, temp. Edward III. ; and of Ogbourne St. George so late as 1565. He thinks that in the case of John. Trewe, above mentioned, there may have been an accidental error by the clerk who wrote the deed, such as often happens either from similarity of sound (as Tenison for Denison, or Tuckett for Duckett), or when a deed is prepared at a distance from the spot. In this case the error seems to be immediately corrected in the deed next following, by the restoration of the proper name Drew, " alias Trewe," as such mistakes, once made, are obliged to be referred to in subsequent documents. The representatives of the Southbroom family repudiate the varia- tion of Trewe. The name of William Ferrebe, clerk, and Lawrence Drewe are 134 Bishop's Cannings. About 1680 Southbroom was purchased by Sir John Eyles, of a] Devizes family, a Lord Mayor of London, and elder brother of Sir Francis Eyles created baronet 1714. The baronetcy in the younger branch expired 1768. The last of the elder branch who resided at Southbroom was Edward Eyles, Esq. 1770. His eldest sister Maria was wife of George Heathcote of London, whose son was Josiah Eyles Heathcote. This gentleman's executors sold it to William Salmon, Esq. : who sold it to the trustees of Mr. Watson Taylor, father of the present owner. It is now the residence of R. P. Nisbet, Esq. Ty thing of Roundway. This is a small hamlet about two miles north of Devizes. In the oldest documents it is most frequently spelled Rynd-way : perhaps from Ryne, in Saxon a spring. The principal estate here, now called Roundway Park, was till lately called New Park, to distinguish it from the Old or Castle Park. It is probable that originally the whole tything, as well as the vill, was held under the See of Salisbury; but that some part1 passed to the Crown with Devizes Castle ; as in a.d. 1327 (1 Edw. III.) Henry Estmond and others were found to hold 120 acres of arable, &c, at Divises in a place called the New Park — "loco voc' Novo Parco" — doing suit and service at Devizes Castle. (I. p. m.) In later times the Bishop's estate was dispersed about the tything : but by an arrangement in Mr. James Sutton's time, New Park be- came independent of the See. Bradenstoke Priory had a small portion of land here called "Holdcroft, under Coffe-grove :" and the College de Valle Schola- rum (Yaux) at Salisbury received 10s. per annum rents from " Ronway " in 1534. [Yal. Ecc] For 500 years (with only a brief temporary interruption,) " Ryndway" was the property of one of the oldest Wiltshire fami- found in juxta-position so early as 1398, as fellow-commissioners sent to attend a Convention. (Rymer, viii. 54.) 1 Perhaps the 2 hides, printed Mzmteyevan, in Mr. Waylen's " Chronicles of Devizes." p. 68. By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 135 lies, still lineally represented but no longer here — that of Nicholas.1 John Nicholas was of Ryndway so early as a.d. 1300. The family branched off and is found at several other places in Wilts : as at Compton Chaniberlayne, Cote in Bishop's Cannings, Brokenbo- rough, Stert, and All-Cannings, all in 1553. At Seend, 1669; and Manningford Braose, 1706 ; also at Ashton Keynes. In Ryndway their original holding (under the Bishop in socage) seems to have been called " Nicholas Place." They had also " Cray's " in 1504. In 1598 Robert Nicholas held at his father's death, as of ancient inheritance, a capital messuage, toft, and six virgates of land, here and at Southbroom : also "Le Hould croft in Ryndeway" then fallen to the Crown as parcel of the estates of the dissolved Priory of Bradenstoke : also a small piece of ground in Ryndway, held of John Sloper as of his share of the manor of Horton Quarles. (I. p.m.) Griffin Nicholas, Esq. was a benefactor to the poor of Devizes. By will 1634, he bequeathed to the poor of St. James's parish £105. To St. Mary's poor £155. To St. John's poor £52 10s. : and to Calne poor £50. Total £362 10s. In 1659 Ryndway was under-leased to Captain Robert Chaloner, whose family (of Co. Denbigh) was connected with that of Nicholas by marriage.2 Thomas Chaloner, Lancaster Herald 1668, appears to have lived here.3 1 The following notices of this family are principally taken from documents kindly lent by Edward Richmond Nicholas, Esq. of Bewdley, Co. Wore. 2 Joan Chaloner was the mother of Robert Nicholas, Esq., Recorder of Devizes. The family notices say that she died at Devizes in 1732, aged 97: and that she dressed singularly, always wearing a black cap. 3 Time renders so harmless the sting of personality, that we hope no living person is likely to take offence if we revive out of John Aubrey's letters to An- thony a Wood, the character which those two oddities settled for this gentleman. A. Wood was trying to obtain a situation in the Herald's Office. Aubrey makes some enquiry on his behalf, and then writes " There is not yet any vacancy: but Mr. Dugdale supposes that one I know is not fit for the place will be contented to resign for money. He is Lancaster Herald : and one that the Office (and I thinke every body) hates, or ought to doe, if they knew him as well as I doe : for he hath been the boutefeu (tire-brand) to set me and my dame" (his intended) "at variance." To which A. Wood replies. "The person that you mentioned in your letter that is now Lancaster Herald, his name is Chaloner, whose character I have heard by one of his neighbours that liveth at the Devizes. I know also that he hath been an Officer in the Army, a bustling man for the 136 Bishop's Cannings. In 1663 among the names of the rate-payers in Ryndway occurs that of Sir Edward Nicholas, the celebrated Secretary of State to King Charles II., an old and faithful servant of the Crown, who was dismissed through the intrigues of Lady Castlemaine, the Royal mistress. Robert Nicholas, counsel on Colonel Penruddocke's trial, and afterwards Baron of the Exchequer, died owner of Ryndway in 1670. He left no son surviving. One of his daughters married Thomas Hulbert of Corsham : and their daughter Elizabeth marry- ing Brereton Boucher, Esq, of Barnesly, Co. Gloucester, carried the estate into that family. But in 1705 it was re-purchased by Robert Nicholas, Esq., Recorder of Devizes, descended from a younger brother of Robert the Baron of the Exchequer above mentioned. John Nicholas, the Baron's nephew, was Fellow of All Souls College Oxford in 1674. In 1706 Edward Nicholas of Manningford Braose held the manor of Potterne under the See. Robert Nicholas, Esq., the first Recorder of Devizes under Charles I.'s charter, was born at Ryndwaj^ 2nd March 1661 : was en- tered of Balliol College Oxford, and then of the Inner Temple. He married Jane only daughter of Mr. John Child, M.P. for De- vizes, brother to Sir Francis Child the first banker. The Recorder died 7th January 1725, aged 64. The name of Edward Richmond Nicholas his grandson is found among the juvenile authors of the Musse Etonenses.1 He left Eton as Captain of the Commoners, and took a degree in Civil Law and Physic at Queen's College, Oxford. He died 1770. His son Robert Nicholas, Esq., M.P. for Cricklade (by petition) in 1784, was of Ashton Keynes, (where his grandfather Edward had married the daughter of Oliffe Richmond). He sold the Round way estate about 1790 to Mr. Willy, M.P. for Devizes, from whom it passed to his relative Mr. Sutton: and from him by the female line to the late world, of great acquaintance with the gentry, and one that understandeth his trade well. He will not stick to ask enough." 1 Edit. 1755, pages 43, 45, 50, 53, 56, 60. By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 137 Mr. Estcourt. From him it was purchased by Mr. Holford whose trustees sold it to the late Edward Francis Colston, Esq, whose widow is the present proprietress. On the hill above, called Roundway Hill and Roundway Down, there is an earthwork, commonly called Oliver's camp, from the notion that Cromwell occupied it when his army or a portion of it was in this part of the county, and surrounded, in 1645, the town of Devizes. This little earthenwork is situated on the western ex- tremity of the hill, upon a high point of Down projecting towards the village of Rowde. It has an entrance from the Down, guarded by a single rampart. On the other side it is rendered inaccessible by nature. The whole area of the camp does not contain three acres. It has not the appearance of a very old work, and though not strictly of the usual form of a Roman encampment, yet as some articles of Roman personal furniture have been found in the neigh- bourhood, it was probably used by them as an exploratory camp attached to the Station of Yerlucio. On this plain, since called King's Play Down, a battle took place 13th July 1643 between the Royalists commanded by Lord Wil- mot and Sir Ralph Hopton, and the forces of the Parliament under Sir William Waller; when the latter sustained a signal defeat. The narrative may be found in Clarendon's History of the Rebel- lion. On this Down a barrow was opened by Mr. Cunnington, and at five and a half feet below the surface a skeleton was found in a fixed po- sition, with its head towards the north, and lying on the left side. This, according to the opinion of a distinguished medical member of the Wiltshire Archaeological Society, was the skeleton of an Ancient Briton, an old man.1 In 1858, Mr. Cunnington made a second investigation, and on this occasion the interment was found at the western end of the barrow, and consisted of a deposit of burnt hu- man bones and a small bronze dagger, which had been fastened to its handle by three bronze rivets. The peculiarity of this inter- ment was the fact that the bones were contained in a wooden chest ^ee his account, Wiltshire Archaeological Magazine, vol. iii. p. 187. 138 Bishop's Cannings. or small coffin, a circumstance which has not hitherto been noticed in Ancient British barrows. In the summer of 1852, as some men were employed in draining a field in Round way farm, their spades came in contact with a hard substance which proved, on opening the ground, to be a leaden cist or coffin. It was rectangular in shape and much cor- roded, and must have lain there undisturbed for many centuries, and from its position (nearly north and south) was probably of the Anglo-Roman period ; but this of course is only conjecture, as no coins, personal ornaments, or pieces of pottery were found to indi- cate the date, nor were any remains of the body found, except some traces of phosphate of lime, usually discovered in earth which has been in contact with animal matter. Another discovery of a leaden coffin was made in an open field near Heddington, presenting exactly the same appearance as the one at Roundway. In that instance also there were no remains of the body, nor any clue to the time of interment, but in the same field some pottery of a very early period was found. In 1787 was printed a poem called " Roundway Hill," by T. Needham Rees, surgeon, of Devizes. Wick. This is now a suburb of Devizes. " Wic;" Saxon for village, in Latin, vicus, is known in some cases to indicate a Roman site. A discovery in 1699 of several hundred Roman coins on ground here belonging to Sir John Eyles of Southbroom ; and another in 1714, of a whole set of pocket household images or Penates (for which see a plate in Waylen's Chronicles of Devizes, p. 279), close to the site of the present Southbroom House; besides other relics men- tioned by Stukeley as being continually found near Devizes ; lead to a fair supposition that there were Romanized Britons here. To what extent it is impossible to say : but perhaps this was the ori- ginal village which afterwards under episcopal and royal patronage grew up into the larger town. It is sometimes called "Vyse-wyke." Nursteed: about two miles south-west of Devizes, is perhaps a corruption of New-stead — new place — but sometimes called Nurst- By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 139 wood, though there does not seem to have existed near the hamlet any woody land, from which the name could come. Mr. Sotheron Estcourt and Mrs. Smith are the chief proprietors, the last men- tioned lady having a handsome villa residence in it. Bedborough is the remaining tything; the boundaries of which it is not easy to ascertain and more difficult to describe It em- braces portions of Devizes Green, and runs up the London road, becomes intermixed with the tything of Roundway, and is stopped by the lane leading to the Silk mill. III. Chittoe. Anciently Chetoive, and Chittow: now sometimes called Ohitway. This tything adjoins the parish of Bromham, but is an outlying part of the manor of Bishop's Cannings, from which by the nearest road over the Downs it is six miles distant. The larger part of it belongs to the Spye Park estate. In the year 1661 Sir Edward Baynton of Bromham being engaged in building a mansion house on a new site, Old Bromham House, the seat of his ancestors, hav- ing been burnt in the civil wars ; Mr. Robert Henley, already mentioned as Lord Farmer at that time of the entire manor, con- veyed to Sir Edward, by an underlease, all his right and property in Chittoe. This included about 100 acres of waste which were added to the new domain called Spye Park ; a condition being annexed that by way of acknowledgement, the Bayntons should pay to the Bishop as chief lord an annual contribution of t wo fat bucks. Mr. C. Wyndham is also a landowner in the tything. Tradition relates that there was anciently a chapel here : and this appears to have been the case: for in the Valor Ecclesiarticus (Henry VIII.) the vicar of Bishop's Cannings is charged with a payment to the rector of Bromham of 6s. 8d. per annum "pro capelld de Chittow." This, I doubt not, was in consideration of his celebrating the sacraments to the inhabitants of Chittoe, on account of their inconvenient distance from their proper parish priest. It is not known when the chapel was destroyed, nor when this pay- ment was discontinued. The parishioners of Chittoe have for very many years been accustomed to be married at Bishop's Cannings, ' l2 140 Bishop's Cannings. but for the offices of baptism and burial, to attend at Brombam church. The Spye Park estate pays to the vicar of Bishop's Cannings every year £2 6s. 8d., which may have been the value of the tythes in ancient times, when nearly all the land in the tything was waste. It would appear by a deed of the 13th century, of the na- ture of an " Inspeximus" that the whole of the tythes of this part of the parish were given to the vicar of Bishop's Cannings: and if he were possessed of sufficient legal evidence to establish his claim to them, now that they are of greater value, the income of the curacy, to which they would be assigned by the incumbent of the mother-church, would be considerably augmented. The tything consists of about 1100 acres. The present vicar of Bishop's Cannings, who even from the date of his induction to the living, had a wish to build a chapel in this outlying part of his parish, at last, in 1844, saw a prospect of hav- ing his desire accomplished : and in the following year, by the Christian liberality of Mrs. Charlotte Starky, Bishop Denison of Salisbury, and other friends, was enabled to erect one, of sufficient size to accommodate both the inhabitants of the tything, and some of those of the adjoining parish of Bromham. A district being thus assigned it became a Perpetual Curacy ; the patronage being vested in the Bishop of Salisbury, who had endowed it by a charge on his estate of £25 per annum : to which the vicar of the parish added an annual grant of £10. To these endowments some addi- tion has been made by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners for England ; whilst Mr. Sotheron Estcourt has generously enabled the Bishop to provide a glebe and otherwise augment the curacy. The dedication of this church is observed every year on the 16th of October by the celebration of Divine Worship, on which occasion there is generally a full attendance of the inhabitants of the district. The church is built of native stone, with free stone dressing, in the Decorative style of architecture. It consists of nave and chan- cel, and contains 175 sittings, the whole of which are " free and unappropriated for ever." The pitch of the roof and the chancel arch are generally admired. Four of the windows, including the largo By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonakl. 141 east window which was executed by Wailes at the expense of the present incumbent, are filled with stained glass, two of them being erected in pious memory of J. Schomberg, Esq. (late of Wans House) by his widow. The situation of the church, and indeed of the whole district, is almost unrivalled for picturesque beauty. In the latter are comprehended Sloperton Cottage, the last residence of Thomas Moore the poet, and Nonsuch House, formerly Mr. Norris's, now the property of the Rev. Meredith Brown, the in- cumbent of Chittoe. But the principal feature of this kind is Spye Park the seat of J. B. Starky, Esq., which may be fairly considered one of the most beautiful parks and residences in the county. The house is a structure of stone, in the Italian style, with a handsome pediment; and is situated on the brow of an eminence, commanding from the back, or south side, a prospect towards Bath, which the cultivated and fastidious John Evelyn has pronounced to be incom- parable. "On the 19th July 1654," says Mr. Evelyn, "went to Sir Edward Baynton's, Spie Park, a place capable of being made a noble seat, but the humorous old Knight has built a long sin- gle house of two low stories on the precipice of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling green in the park."1 The gateway by which the park is entered from the Lacock or Bowden side deserves attention. It is considered a perfect specimen of a Tudor Arch, and is said to have been presented to the Baynton family by one of the Queens of Henry VIII. It formerly stood at Old Bromham House, long since levelled with, the ground. The park consists of about 500 acres, and contains every element of the picturesque. Ecclesiastical History. The church "of Cannings" with glebe, great tythes, and a cer- tain portion of the small tythes, was granted April 1091 by the munificent Bishop Osmund to the Dean and Canons of Salisbury, with episcopal jurisdiction over the parish ; which jurisdiction con- tinued and was exercised by the present incumbent as Official of the Dean and Chapter until within these few years past, when all the Peculiars in the Diocese were merged in the jurisdiction of the " 1 Yol. i. p. 279. " 142 Bishop's Cannings. Bishop. It is not easy to understand why it pleased Bishop Os- mund to exempt from episcopal authority the parish, which com- prised his own manorial estate, and to assign it to others; but it is in agreement with one of the statutes of the Cathedral, in which he counsels the Dean and Canons to be on their guard against the influence of the Bishop in their concerns. Under the Land Tax Act, in the beginning of this century, the great tythes and a portion of the small tythes, were sold by the Dean and Chapter to Sir Anthony Abdy, then Lord Farmer of their manor of Cannings Canonicorum. He assigned them to T. Sutton, Esq. of New Park in this parish ; by whose will they were bequeathed to his daughter Eleanor, wife of Thomas Grimston Estcourt, Esq. ; and from her they descended to her son, Mr. So- theron Estcourt. Of these tythes Mr. Estcourt, senior, merged the greater portion in land by a certain agreement between himself and the Bishop of Salisbury. The rest (under the arrangement for the general disposal of his interest in the episcopal property, already referred to) has been most liberally surrendered by Mr. Sotheron Estcourt, for the augmentation of the chapels of Southbroom and Chittoe, and for the maintenance of the chancel of Bishop's Can- nings church. The Vicarage. The Dean and Canons are the patrons of the vicarage, which is valued in the King's books at £17 19s. 2d. In a.d. 1778 an Act of Parliament was obtained to lay several certain common lands, which was carried into effect, and a portion of pasture assigned to the vicar. In 1812 the whole of the tythes of the parish due to the vicar were under the provisions of another Act of Parliament commuted, for the great and small tythes of certain lands in the tything of Coate, and of a farm (now Mr. Gidding's) in the tything of Horton ; and for an assignment of a certain ad- ditional quantity of land at Coate and Bishop's Cannings. Under the more recent general commutation, all these tythes have been converted into a rent charge of £360 a year. The Dean and Chap- ter of Salisbury in selling their property, and the great tythes to their tenants (as mentioned above), were careful to charge them By the Ten. Archdeacon Macdonald. 143 with an annual payment to the vicar of sixteen quarters of barley and twelve quarters of wheat. Vicars of Bishop's Cannings, with the dates of their respective Institutions. A.D. 1290. " Johannes, Vicarius de Canynges" witnesses a deed of Lacock Abbey. 1313. Simon Ingham. 1316. Wmus de Carleton. 1329. Wmus de Cherleton. 1332. Johannes de Keston, by ezch. with T. Welewyk of Colerne. 1334. Nicholas Thurstayn. 1339. Hugonis de Lambele, vice John de Keston ( sic.) 1389. Wmus de Gilbert, by exch. with Robert Elteslee of Corsham. 1390. William Chitterne, v. Robert Elteslee. 1402. Johannes Kentif, vice Wm. Shirard (sic.) 1410. Philippus Goife, vice Johannes Kentyf. 1419. Johannes Dygon, vice Philippi Goffe. 1421. Johannes Marreys, vice Johannis Dygon. 1425. William Hankyn, vice John Marys. 1428. Nicholas Yonge, by exch. with William Hawkyn. 1458. John Boleyn, p. m. Nich. Yong. 1472. John Lecke, on resig. John Boleyn. 1489. Richardus Baldry, vice John LecAe. 1491. Christopher Chatres, p. m. Rich. Baldry. 1502. Edmund Crome. 1504. Thomas Sloper, on res. Ed. Crome. 1535. Gulielmus Cake, p. m. Thomas Sloper. 1543. Richard Acars, v. Wm. Cake. Hugh Gough. 1593. George Ferrebe, on res. of Hugh Gough. 1623. Thomas Ferrebe, on death o/G. F. 1650. Thomas Etwell. 1683. Nathanael Godwyn. 1704. Avery Thompson. 1720. Jonathan Waterman. 1760. Arthur Dodwell. 1815. William Macdonald, M.A., Archdeacon of Wilts. It would appear from the dates of Institutions that the incumben- cies of the earlier vicars of the parish were but of short duration : the contrast is great between them and the incumbencies of later min- isters. Nothing is known about the earlier vicars. Among the later, Mr. George Ferrebe (1593 — 1623) deserves mention. Of him it is said that he was skilled in music; and that by his exercise of this talent he particularly pleased Anne, Queen of James the First, 144 Bishop's Cannings. when on her return from Bath 11th June 1613, she passed over Wansdyke in his parish. Having received intelligence of this, Mr. Ferrebe, it is related, dressed himself in the habit of an an- cient bard, and clothed certain persons of his family whom he had taught to play and sing in parts, in shepherd's weeds, and proceeded to meet her Majesty. The Queen having had some notice of their intention, stood still and suffered them to draw up to her, which when done, they played their lessons on their wind instruments admirably, and sung some pastoral eclogues which he had composed for the occasion, to the great liking of the Queen and her Court. Soon after this, Mr. Ferrebe was sworn one of the King's Chap- lains, and was ever after much valued for his ingenuity.1 Aubrey in one of his letters says that "GL Ferrebe was Demy if not Fellow of Magd. Coll. Oxford : and that it was he who caused the eight bells to be cast there, being a very good ringer." The Parish Church. This is dedicated to St. Mary the Yirgin, and is a very ancient and noble structure. It has some traces of Norman, but a large portion of it is of the earliest age of the Pointed style: which doubtless was the prevailing character of the whole before certain changes, hereafter noticed, were made. The chancel with the transepts and tower afford pure specimens of the Early English, and lancet windows ; those of the chancel especially being very beautiful, and much admired both by profes- sional and amateur architects: whilst the pillars of the nave, adorn- ed with well finished capitals, furnish evident marks of having been set up at that transition period, when the massive Roman was giving way to the lighter architecture of the 12th century.2 The 1 See a further account of this eccentric vicar in Aubrey's Nat. Hist, of Wilts, p. 108. 2 The late Mr. Britton in his "Architectural Antiquities" vol. iv. p. 121, gives an engraving of the church from the south ; and ' ' safely refers the ear- liest part of it to the reign of King Henry II." 1155-1189. Joceline de Bailol being Bishop of Salisbury during nearly the whole of that period, it is not un- likely that upon recovering the Manor of Cannings from the crown in A.D. 1159, (See above, p. 125.) he undertook the erection of this fine building. Its charac- By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdomld. 145 whole edifice consists of a nave with two aisles ; a porch on the south side; decorated with the ball flower ornament; a transept with a tower and spire rising from the centre; a chantry attached to the east side of the south transept ; a chancel, which till within these fifty or sixty years was furnished with stalls; and a very ancient building now used as a vestry room, attached to the north- east corner. The church from east to west measures 122 ft. 6 in. ; length of chancel 52 ft.; width of transept 16 ft. 2 in.; length of nave 56 ft. 4 in. ; length of transept, from north to south, 66 ft. 6 in.1 The Chantry chapel on the east side of the south transept was, at the time of the Reformation (5th Elizabeth), made over by the churchwardens to John Ernie, Esq. of Bourton, in this parish, as a burial place for himself and family, according to the tenor of the following deed of gift, dated 6 Nov. 1563: — ■ " To all the faithful in Christ to whom this our present writing shall come, Thomas Sloper and John Perse wardens or guardians of the parish church of Bishop's Cannyng, in the county of Wilts, greeting in the Lord everlasting : — Whereas in the parish church of Bishop's Cannyng aforesaid, a certain chapel commonly called our Lady Bower, for the celebration of papistical masses is constructed and built, and such masses repugnant and contrary to divine law by the laws and statutes of this famous kingdom of England are lawfully abolished and prohibited : by pretext whereof the aforesaid chapel now is of no use to the said church or the parishioners thereof, nor can be converted, but the charges of the repair of the same chapel which now begin to be great (and increasing unless a remedy be provided, cannot but be in future days greater and heavier) fall upon the wardens or guardians and parishioners of the parish church of Bishop's Cannyng aforesaid : Know ye therefore that we the aforesaid Thomas Sloper and John Perse the wardens or guardians beforesaid, as well in regard of the premises as for divers other just and lawful causes and considerations us hereunto moving, as well for us and our successors, wardens, or guardians of the said parish church as for all and singular the parishioners of the aforesaid parish church, their consent and assent being also expressly had to these presents ; Do give and grant to our beloved in Christ, John Ernie of Bishop's Cannyng ter, borne out by the known history of the Manor, sufficiently denotes that at all events it must have been built under influence connected with Salisbury Cathedral. It is illustrated by Mr. Owen B. Carter in his unfinished folio work of Wiltshire churches. 1 The chancel being so long, and being separated from the body of the church by the transept and having pillars supporting the steeple, the minister cannot read the Communion service from the proper place : and it is worthy of note that among the muniments of the Chapter there is an order directing the vicar not to read the service in the chancel but in the reading desk of the nave. 146 Bishop's Cannings. beforesaid, in the said county of Wilts, Esquire, and his heirs and assigns for ever, the use and occupation of the aforesaid chapel, viz., as well to make and procure to be constructed and built seats in such chapel, and also to use and have the same seats for the purpose of hearing Divine service, to be had and ministered in such parish church, as for burying and delivering to burial the bodies of deceased persons in the same chapel. To have and to hold the use and occupation of the beforesaid chapel in manner and form aforesaid, together with the free and direct ingress and regress to the same to the aforesaid John Ernie, his heirs, and assigns for ever. Provided always that the beforesaid John Ernie, his heirs and assigns, the aforesaid chapel in all necessary repairs, at his proper charges and expenses from time to time, as often as need shall be, shall well and sufficiently repair and maintain and sustain : and if it shall happen that such chapel in any part thereof, by the beforesaid John Ernie, his heirs, or assigns, be unrepaired by the space of one year after lawful notice to the same John Ernie, his heirs, or assigns, by the aforesaid wardens or guardians, or our successors made, then our present writings shall be of no value or effect. And then and from thenceforth it shall be lawful for us and our successors, wardens or guardians of the said parish church, into the aforesaid chapel with all its appur- tenances to re-enter, and the same with the appurtenances as in its former state, to retain and re-possess, our present gift and grant in any wise notwithstanding. In faith and testimony of all and singular the premises, we have affixed our seals to these presents, dated the 6th day of the month of November, in the 5th year of the reign of Elizabeth, by the grace of God of England, France, and Ireland, Uueen, Defender of the faith. " By me John Eenle." It was dedicated to Our Lady of the Bower,1 and having fallen into dilapidation, and private masses being no longer legal and allowable, it was acceptedby Mr. Ernie on condition of his keeping it in due repair. Having passed to his heirs it is now maintained by them, though no longer used for the purpose of interments, and I am sorry to say is not in so good a condition as might be wished. It contains two sepulchral monuments. 1st. In memory of John Ernie 1 Boure (from the Saxon Bur) is an old word used by Chaucer signifying, not, as it generally does now, an arbour, but a chamber, as opposed to a hall. " Heres thou not Absalon That chaunteth thus under our boure's wall." — Miller's Tale. So in a Scotch ballad ; " There shall neither coal nor candle light Be seen within my bower mair." And Milton : " in hall or bower." Chapels were dedicated to " Our Lady" under various titles : "Ad prcesepe" of the manger. De navicelld, of the boat. Adnives, of the snow, &c. The pre- sent one is rare. By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 147 of Bourton, Esq., who died February 1st, 1571. 2nd. In memory of Edward Ernie of Echilhampton, son of Michael Ernie of Bour- ton, who died November 30th, 1656; and of Edward his grand- child, January 21st, 1675. The building attached to the north-east corner of the chancel, called a chantry chapel by Mr. Britton, but more probably used as a sacristy, is that portion of the church which bears the mark of the highest antiquity. Unlike chantry chapels, it has an upper chamber, probably a priest's room, and had origin- ally a bell turret, the vestiges of which consist of some steps ending in the ridge of the roof. Though there can be little or no doubt that this church was built in the time of Henry II., it has never- theless undergone considerable alteration at a subsequent period, probably early in the 14th century, when the Perpendicular style came into fashion with architects. At this time the original high pitched roof of the nave was replaced by a late Pointed clerestory and roof ; the triplet at the west end being preserved. The walls of the north and south aisles were raised, and windows of the early Perpendicular substituted in these aisles for the smaller lancets, specimens of which are to be seen in the sides of the transepts. There is in this church a singular, and I believe an unique article of furniture, the design and use of which it has puzzled many per- sons to discover. By some antiquaries it has been considered to be a portion of a Confessional chair; but a different, and probably more correct account of it is thus given by a writer in the "Eccle- siologist," (vol. v. pp. 150-2.) " Of this (alleged) "Confessional chair," an unscientific drawing and copy of the inscription were published in the "British Magazine" for April 1835. The inscrip- tion however was both incompletely and incorrectly transcribed. The chair itself, or rather stall, is now moveable, and is placed against the west wall of the north transept. It consists of an up- right panel, with some mouldings at the top and sides: the inner face of which is painted with a large hand, inscribed with sentences, and with two labels below, proceeding from the mouths of a white and a black cock respectively, also charged with legends. Against this panel is constructed a seat, facing sideways, with a flooring, a back of the ordinary height of a pew, a door, (facing the panel, but 148 Bishop's Cannings. on the right hand of the person occupying the seat) and a desk in I front of the seat, lower than the back or sido. In the absence of accurate drawings we cannot help thinking that the seat is later than the painted panel to which it is attached. The inscriptions are in letters of the 15th century. Now, even supposing the whole to be of the same date, there can be little or no question that this seat is not a confessional : first, because there is no arrangement for whis- pering or secrecy : secondly, because the manus meditationis is quite unsuitable to the case of either penitent or confessor : thirdly, be- cause everything people do not understand is, as a matter of course, attributed to confessionals. Some have thought the back to be a panel of the rood, or some other screen. But the inscription seems also quite inappropriate in such a position, or for any use in con- nection with the Divine offices. Whether, however, the unpainted seat, and deskwork be of the same date or not, it is certain that the whole stall is of ante-reformation date. We subjoin an ingeni- ous theory of a valued correspondent on the use of this seat. "For myself, (he says) I conjecture that this so called Confes- sional chair is a valuable, and perhaps unique, example of the ancient 'Carrel,'1 or stall, usually fixed in the cloister of monastic buildings, and which probably occurred as frequently in connexion with large parochial churches, such as Bishop's Cannings, in imme- diate dependance on the Cathedral. These carrels were used by the monks or clergy for daily private study and meditation : hence the peculiar propriety and beauty in such a position of the manus meditationis. The following account of the carrel is transcribed from the well known "Rites of Durham Abbey." [Surtees Society's edition, pp. 70, 71.] 'In the north side of the cloister, from the corner against the church door to the corner over against the Dor- ter (Dormitory) door, was all fynely glased from the night to the sole within a litle of the ground into the cloister garth. And in every window iij. pews or carrells, where every one of the old monks had his carrell, severall by himselfe, that, when they had dyned, they dyd resorte to that place of cloister, and there studyed upon there books, every one in his carrell, all the afternonne unto 1 Of course from " quarreo" a square box, stall, inclosure, pewe, or pen, By Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 149 evensong tyme. This was there exercise every daie. All these pews or carrells were all fynely wainscotted and verie close, all but the forepart which had carved wourke that gave light in at their carrell doures of waynscott. And in every carrell was a deske to lye there bookes on. And the carrells was no greater than from one stanchell of the wyndowe to another. And over against the car- rells against the church wall did stande sertaine great almeries of waynscott all full of bookes, wherein dyd lye as well the old aunc- yent written Doctors of the Church, as other prophane authors, with dyverse other holie men's workes, so that every one did studye, what Doctor pleased him best, having the librarie at all tymes to goe studye in besides there carrells.' Until better informed, there- fore, I am disposed to conclude that this very remarkable relique is a carrell used for study and meditation, and not a confessional chair. Of the manus itself, I will only remark, that the singular marking of each joint, and tip of the finger, as a separate subject for pious meditation, might perhaps have been taken from the common use of the hand in learning vocal music, which though revived by Wilhelm, is as old as Guido d'Arezzo, in the eleventh century." The brief admonitory sentences on the Hand are as follows : — • Nescis quantum, Nescis quoties, Dextm offendisti. Finis tuus Vita tua Venisti in §J amavus est. brevis est. mundum Cum peccato. S Nihil tecum feres Vitam tuam Mortem tuam g nisi quod fecisti. non potes non potes Morieris, g Meditari elongare. evadere. • m debes te quod Nescis quo Nescis qualiter Nescis ubi Hora mortis | derenies. morieris. morieris. incerta est. 2 5 Cito oblivisceris Raro faciet Quibus bona Status tuus a cbaris. pro te hreres. relinquis pa- miserabilis rum faciet est. pro te. Memorare novissima tua Non homo laeteris tibi copia si fluat aeris. Et in seternum non peccabis, Hie non semper eris , memor esto quod morieris. JEs evanebit: quod habes hie alter habebit. Corpus putrebit : quod agis tecum remanebit. Organ. In a.d. 1809, the sum of £1000 was given to the church- wardens by Mr. William Bayley, a native of the village, to purchase an organ for the church, which was accordingly procured from Mr. England, the great organ builder of the day, for the sum of £400, 150 Bishop's Cannings. The rest of the money was invested for the purpose of providing an organist, and for the tuning and repairing of the instrument when necessary, to which purpose the interest of the money has been faithfully applied.1 Of the donor of the organ, I am able to give a short account Mr. William Bayley was the son of a small farmer at Bishop's Cannings, and assisted his father in his business, devoting his leisure hours to reading, writing, and summing. Feeling a desire to see more of the world than he could in his native village, he pro- ceeded to Portsmouth and went to sea. After some experience in navigation he was taken on board Captain Cook's ship, when that great navigator was about to commence his second voyage round the globe, and having evinced an aptitude for astronomical pursuits, was employed by Mr. "Wales, (the astronomer in some of the voyages,) in assisting him in taking observations and making calcu- lations. On the ship's return, availing himself of the knowledge he had acquired during the expedition, he set up a Naval Academy at Portsea ; and becoming head of the Royal Naval School there, had the honour of training many young gentlemen for the Royal Navy Having obtained considerable wealth, he retired from his tutorial duties ; and on making a visit to his native village, expressed to Mr. Brown, one of the principal inhabitants and a churchwarden, his desire to confer on the parish of his birth a benefit, by which he should also be remembered. His wish was to build and endow a school in which the youth of the parish should be taught arith- metic and practical mathematics ; but difficulties interposing to prevent the accomplishment of this desire, he determined to give (as above mentioned) an organ to the church, with a sufficiency for the payment of an organist, and the repairing of the instrument He purchased an estate at Imber, in this county of Wilts : but if he ever resided there it must have been for a very short time, for he was living at Portsea in 1810, and died there in December of that year; at what age is not recorded. 1 The money was originally placed in private hands, it was afterwards trans- ferred to the Public Funds, where it now stands in the names of T. H. S. Soth- eron Estcourt, Esq., Wm. Macdonald, clerk, Thomas Brown, and George Skeate Buddie. By the Ven, Archdeacon Macdonald. 151 In the lapse of time, the open seats of the church having become much dilapidated, and the rest of it disfigured by unseemly and in- convenient pews, it was resolved in vestry, a.d. 1829, to remove the whole of the old and decayed seats and square pews, and by refit- ting to increase the accommodation of the church : which was accordingly effected at the expense of £490; the Society for Promo- ting the Building and Repairing of Churches contributing a con- siderable portion of the outlay. At the same time a ringing loft was constructed, and the steps in the tower leading to the belfry repaired. In a.d. 1840 the stocks of the bells eight in number, and the rest of the apparatus for ring- ing being much out of order, it became necessary to engage some competent person or persons to repair and render them fit for the purpose for which they were placed in the tower. Accordingly Messrs. Mears of Whitechapel were employed : and by them one bell was re-cast, and the whole peal, at the expense of much time and money, were re-hung. Since that time nothing of any im- portance has required to be done. Registers. The earliest Parish Register is dated a.d. 1591; there was no interruption down to the time of the Common- wealth : but from 1642 to 1650 the entries are fewer, and no clergyman's name appears, as heretofore, at the foot of each page. Charities. Naish's. Two pieces of land, each measuring about two acres, were given to the tything of Bishop's Cannings for the benefit of the poor, by a benefactor, traditionally said to have been a Mr. Naish: but the name of the donor, as well as the date of the gift have not been so carefully recorded as they ought to have been. These two pieces are bestowed whenever a vacancy occurs, on the oldest men of the tything, born and residing in it, and in commu- nion with the church. The patronage is with the vicar and parish officers, viz., the two churchwardens and four overseers. There are also other lands called Church lands, consisting of several parcels, let on leases to different persons by the feoffees. It is not known how the land was originally acquired. The oldest 152 Bishop* 8 Cannings. deed relating to it in the possession of the feoffees, is dated Febru- ary 5th, 1760, and is a conveyance to the feoffees therein named, of the several parcels of which it then consisted ; all of these par- cels ar£ still in the possession of the feoffees, except certain portions of them, which have been exchanged for other parcels, in pursu- ance of several Acts of inclosure. The trusts of this deed are for the reparation and uses of the parish church of Bishop's Cannings, and for no other purpose whatsoever. These trusts have been faithfully executed by the present feoffees, viz., Wm. Macdonald, vicar of Bishop's Cannings; Thomas Brown, William Brown, Charles Biddings, and Mark Sloper. With other charities, we must not omit to mention, though small in amount, those of Mr. Paul Weston, and Mr. Stevens, which have become unavailable for the intended objects of the donors. Mr. Weston left to the overseers £20, and Mr. Stevens £10, the interest arising from which to be distributed in bread among the second poor. This was regularly done every year on St. Paul's day, until the present Poor Law came into force, when the Commissioners refused to allow it to stand on the parish accounts. £30 therefore lies in abeyance, and the poor lose their loaves. Thomas Stevens. Among those who have done honour to their native parish by their talents, their industry, and their Christian beneficence, the name of Thomas Stevens, Esq., Alderman of the city of Bristol, is deserving of a record in this memoir. He entered Bristol a poor rustic boy. His father had a wish that his son should obtain a more profitable calling than his own, which was that of a labouring man, and went to Bristol (probably on foot) for the purpose of apprenticing him to some tradesman there. This was in March 1622, and at the expiration of the month he was apprenticed to a grocer for eight years. On the expiration of the term of his servitude, March 15th, 1630, he took up his freedom to the trade to which he had served his time, and soon after com- menced business on old Bristol Bridge, which ancient structure was then crowded with houses. Stevens was successful in trade and on the 15th September 1660, held so good a position in the By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 153 city, that he was chosen Sheriff, and on refusing to serve was fined £200. In 1668 he was elected Mayor of Bristol, and in April 1679 he departed this life, and according to his desire was interred in the churchyard of St. Nicholas. By his will he left lands, &c., at Bridge Gate, Wick and Abson in Gloucestershire, to build and endow two large Alms-houses for twelve poor men and women in each ; one in the parish of St. Philip and Jacob, and the other in the parish of Temple ; and at the present time the funds arising from the above mentioned estates are so increased as to enable the Trustees to pay twenty-eight poor women, who must be the widows or daughters of Bristol men, freemen, or born in the city, and mem- bers of the Church of England, in the Alms-houses, and fourteen out at five shillings per week each. Amongst other bequests was one of £10 to the poor of Bishop's Cannings, the interest of which as elsewhere mentioned in this memoir, was every year distributed in bread amongst the second poor on St. Paul's day. Alderman Stevens desired by will to be buried "with his wives and children, suitable to his degree and quality, and according to the usage and course of Bristol." His third wife (Cecil Selfe) survived him: to whom he left (inter alia) " the scabbard of the sword borne before him when hie was Mayor, and presented to him by the Sheriff. The Charities in the chapelry of St. James, Southbroom, consist of the rents of certain houses on Devizes Green, on a site purchased in 1757, with money given by a donor now unknown. The family of Eyles also gave money for the second poor: but in what way it was applied is not explained in the report of the Commissioners, 1834. (Report 28, p. 369.) Dr: James Pound. The family of Pound, in this parish, recently extinct in the direct line, was ancient and respectable, and one of the name appears as churchwarden in the oldest register, viz. 1591; which contains also the names of the forefathers of the present Browns, Slopers, and Ruddles, proprietors and occupiers in the parish. Of this family was Dr. James Pound, rector of Wanstead in Essex, the maternal uncle and early instructor of Dr. James Bradley, the distinguished K 154 Bishop's Cannings. astronomer, and learned professor of that science at Oxford. Dr. Pound was a man of great ability and genius, and eminent as a divine, a physician and mathematician. In the two former capacities he went to the East Indies, in the service of the Company, and was one of those who had the good fortune to escape from the massacre of the factory on the island of Pulo Condore in Cochin China. A description of this shocking scene, written by Dr. Pound, is to be found in Dr. Bradley's papers, in the Bodleian Library at Oxford, together with a journal kept by him on board the Rose sloop, giv- ing an account of their sufferings, until after many difficulties and distresses they arrived at Batavia, on the 15th of April, 1705. The public suffered much in this catastrophe by the loss of Dr. Pound's papers, and other valuable curiosities collected by him, which all perished in the conflagration, as he had no time to save any thing but his own life. It was while staying with his uncle at Wanstead that Bradley first began his observations with the sector, which led to his future important discoveries.1 Dr. Pound was born in February, 1669, and died at Wanstead November 16th, 1724. Natural History and Geology. With regard to the Natural History of this parish, I am not aware of any peculiarity. It is much the same as that of the surrounding district. There is a considerable variety in the nature and properties of the land, as will be evident to the reader of the following geologi- cal sketch, for which I am indebted to Mr. Cunnington of Devizes. Extensive as is the parish of Bishop's Cannings, its geology is very simple. The Chalk and the Upper Green Sand are the only strata found within its limits; unless indeed a small portion of the Gault (the clay which lies immediately below the Upper Green Sand) may be found at Drew's pond, or in the meadows near Roundway Park. But the Chalk has the largest superficial area. The extensive Downs of Roundway and Beckhampton are wholly formed of this stratum, and it is so well known, and so easily dis- 1 See Chalmers's Biography, Art, "Bradley." By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 155 tinguished from the Upper Green Sand, that it will not be necessary further to define its limits. It has in the neighbourhood of Devizes a depth of about 500 feet, probably a little more. Roundway Hill is 740 feet above the sea; Morgan's Hill 940. On the summits of some of the hills, there are beds of the Upper Chalk, with ^ers and nodules of flint. Here the Chalk is very pure and soft ; at a lower level there are layers of a hard splintery limestone, occasion- ally of a yellowish tinge, and towards the base of the stratum it becomes more argillaceous, and of a grey tint; sometimes when wet, it approaches to a slate colour. The general appearance of the Chalk however is that of a soft whitish limestone : chemically speaking, it is carbonate of lime. In some localities, it is much af- fected by the weather, and breaks up into thin scales, whilst in other instances it is sufficiently hard and enduring to serve as a material for building rough walls. Phosphate of lime, the most valuable of all inorganic manures, abounds in the hard beds of the Lower Chalk. The pieces in which it occurs may be known by their yellowish tinge and irregular nodular structure. The stone containing it is much used in the town and neighbourhood of Devizes as a material for road making : some of it contains as much as 25 per cent, of phosphate of lime. In its passage into the Upper Green Sand, the Chalk gradually becomes mixed with coarse silicious sand, and the great abundance of organic remains, would lead to the conclusion that these particular beds were depos- ited at the bottom of a shallow sea, abounding with vegetable as well as animal life. The fossils here found mostly constitute the nuclei j of small masses of phosphate of lime, or they are filled with that sub- stance. The nodules generally contain 40 per cent, of phosphate : of lime. The following is the analysis of some specimens from the neighbourhood of Roundway, by Dr. Wrightson of Birmingham. Sand and silicates - - - 25 * 33 Carbonate of lime - - - 27 ■ 70 Phosphate of lime - - - 42 ■ 46 Alkalies, &c. - - - 4 ■ 51 100 k 2 156 Bishop ' s Can flings . The presence of so large a quantity of carbonate of lime, will prevent the economic use of this material for some time to come until the present supplies of phosphate are so far exhausted, as to raise its marketable value. It is to the abundance of phosphatic earths in the Chalk, that much of the fertility of the soil in this district is due. There are however other elements which must be taken into consideration Many plants require large quantities of carbonate of lime, and it is absolutely necessary to the health of some species. Thus carrots contain 164 lbs. of lime in every ton ; mangel wurzel 17J lbs., and turnips 55 lbs. per ton. The Chalk on the higher hills is very pure, and yields but few materials capable of supporting a healthy vegetation, and the corn crops in these situations are thin; but the action of the rain, frosts, &c, during many ages have tended to bring about, on the lower slopes of the hills, and in the vallies, an admixture of materials which possesses all the inorganic elements of fine fertile soil. In some localities, as for example, in the neigh- bourhood of Horton and Bishop's Cannings, the soil partakes of the character of a stiff clay. This has probably been derived from the marly beds of the Chalk by the long continued action of rain water containing carbonic acid, which has dissolved the carbonate of lime, and carried it away, leaving the aluminous or clayey constituents of the Chalk undissolved on the surface. The Upper Green Sand too has supplied silex to the soil of many of these vallies. Fossil remains are not very abundant in the Chalk of North Wilts, except in the flints, and in the lower or junction beds. A few fine and rare Ammonites have been found on Roundway Hill; and in the "Fossil Shells of the Chalk," published by the Palseontographical Society, at Plate x. are figures of Am- monites peramplus, a very fine species from this locality. The smaller figure is from Morgan's Hill. In Plate xiii. of the same publication, are engravings of Ammonites catinus from Roundway, of which the late Mr. Sharpe, when President of the Geological Society, says, "This rare ammonite of which only two specimens have been met with, is the only species yet known in the Chalk, By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 157 of the family of the Coronarii so abundant in the Middle Oolites/' Mr. Sharpe paid Wiltshire the compliment of naming a remark- able, though small species, found on Morgan's Hill, Ammonites Wiltoniensis. It is the only known specimen.1 There are also some fossiliferous beds in the Lower Chalk or Chalk Marl, as for ex- ample on Canning's Hill on the London road, and it may be re- Ammonites wiltoniensis (sharped marked that many of the forms which exist in the Upper Green Sand are continued into these beds of the Chalk, though they cease to exist soon after the commence- ment of that stratum. The sponges occur very rarely in the Chalk itself, although so abundant in the flints. The Devizes collections are rich in these remains. The Upper Green Sand follows the outline of the Chalk hills, forming terraces round their bases, and throwing out picturesque promontories into the surrounding vallies. It is to these slopes, clothed as they usually are with luxuriant timber, that much of I the beauty of the scenery around Devizes and Roundway is due. The greatest depth of the Upper Green Sand in this parish is about 140 ft. It is very silicious towards the top, and mostly consists of a greenish quartzose sand, but the greater portion of the stratum is a fine sand with grains of mica. Towards the bottom, as it ap- proaches the Gault, it is very argillaceous, and gradually passes into a heavy blue clay. With the exception of certain layers or blocks of rough sandstone, which occur about the middle of the stratum, the Upper Green Sand of North Wilts yields no stone capable of being used as a building material. The sandstone is composed of sand united by a calcareous cement, probably derived i from the decomposition of the shells which it contains, and of these 'there is sometimes a great abundance. I The fossils of the Upper Green Sand are usually found in the |3ondition of casts only, but these are so sharp that all the charac- teristic lines and markings are preserved, and the species are easily 1 The fossils mentioned above are in the collection of Mr. Cunnington. 158 Bishop' 's Cannings. determined. Some shells, particularly some of the Pectens, are converted into silex, and in these instances they retain the original form with much minuteness and beauty. There are few localities in which so great a variety of fossils may be found as in this, and the researches of the geologist will be amply repaid by the abund- ance which even a few years will supply to his cabinets. Mr. Cunnington's collection contains upwards of 200 species from this immediate neighbourhood. Several kinds of Ammonites are found, some of them appear to be peculiar to this locality. Sponges which are so fine in the Green Sand of Warminster, and the Yale of Pewsey, are rare in the Sand of Bishop's Cannings, there are two or three species only, and these not common. The soil of the Upper Green Sand is variable ; where it is cov- ered by the mixed detritus from the chalk and other beds it is very fertile; but in these spots where the sand itself comes to the surface it is very light, and is what is usually called a "hungry soil," that is, it requires large quantities of manure. Not only does the light- ness and looseness of the sand allow the free passage of the rain water, and thus the soluble constituents are easily washed away, but the organic manures are so much exposed in these porous soils to the oxygen of the atmosphere, that they are rapidly decomposed. Where practicable, the best remedy for soils of this kind is, probably, the application of considerable quantities of chalk or heavy loam. Produce, &c. From the foregoing account of the qualities of the soil, it is clear that any sort of cereal crop is grown with advantage; whilst the meadows yield pasture for the milk cows, and the Downs afford { range for the Southdown sheep, which are here bred in great num bers. At the time in which I write, the quantity of live stock is as follows, Sheep, 11,310; Horses, 164; Oxen and Cows, &c.,262; Pigs, 323. The number of acres of different sorts of corn was ir 1856 as follows, Wheat, 1208; Barley, 226; Beans, 168; Peas. 102 ; Oats, 145. The white crop is usually and for the most part) got out by the steam engine ; the beans by the flail. The population of the tythings of Bishop's Cannings, Horton Bourton, and Coate, according to the census of 1851, is 1246 By the Ven. Archdeacon Macdonald. 159 The assessment to the poor is £8642 4s. 4d. The average rate of 18s. lOd. the last three years was £1001 Population of Southbroom, 2300. Wages are low, frequently not exceeding seven or eight shillings per week, but in order to help the married labourer, a considerable portion of land has been set apart by the late landlord, Mr. Estcourt, and divided into lots of twenty perches, more or less, for which a very moderate rent is exacted, and for the most part very regularly paid. A good deal of piece-work is also done, to the great advan- tage of the labourer; who also receives double pay for part of his harvest work. Nor should it be forgotten that the poor man pays for his cottage much less rent than is paid in those districts where wages are higher. From £2 to £2 10s. per annum is the ordinary rent in this parish. Though the climate be cold, and the subsoil damp, this is on the whole a healthy parish, and has been particularly improved by draining. Rheumatism is the prevailing complaint among the aged ; and scrofulous affections are too common. The deaths average a fraction above 2 per cent, of the population. AN ACCOUNT OF THE ^itcient §ri&| attir ^n%lo*$mn §iittote ON ROUNDWAY HILL, IN THE PARISH OF BISHOP'S CANNINGS. By Mr. Cunnington, F.G.S. jEVEN Barrows have been opened on this spot. — The first, No. 1, (see map p. 160) was opened in 1855, by Mr. Coward and Mr. Cunnington, and again in 1856. A considerable section was made, but nothing found except a fragment of burnt bone, and a piece or two of broken pottery. It is a circular and somewhat flat barrow, about forty feet in diameter and one foot in height. Barrow No. 2 is described in the Wiltshire Magazine, vol iii. p. 185. Barrow No. 3 is situated close to, and on the south side of the large chalk pit. It is thus described by the late Mr. Cunnington, 160 Barrows on Roundway Mill. by whom it was explored in 1805. " It is circular in its form, and about two feet and a half in elevation. At the depth of four feet and a half, we found a skeleton lying from west to east, and with it an iron ring, and thirty bits of ivory, in form and size like chil- drens' marbles cut in two : these articles were intermixed with a large quantity of decayed wood, which was probably once attached to the ivory."1 • Index Map to the Barrows on Roundway Hill. In 1855 this barrow was again opened, and an antler of a deer, and a medal, with the inscription, " Opened by Wm. Cunnington 1805," was found. The skeleton was disinterred, and the cranium and some of the bones having been examined by Dr. Thurnam, he has favoured me with the following notes on the subject. " The skull is that of a man of middle age, probably about fifty years. Nearly all the teeth are in place, and in good condition, except that their crowns are considerably worn down. The nasal bones in this skull do not present the abrupt projection so distinc- tive in that from barrow No. 2. The face is large and broad, owing to the prominence of the cheek bones. The upper and lower jaw are deep and large, and strongly marked for muscular attachments. 1 Hoare's Ancient Wiltshire, vol. ii. p. 98. By Mr. Cunnington. 161 The frontal sinuses are full and prominent ; the forehead is narrow and somewhat flat and receding. Viewed from above the skull is seen to have a much more lengthened oval form than that from barrow No. 2. (Wilts Mag. vol. iii. p. 186). The thickest parts of the parietals measure a third, those of the frontal bones half an inch. Immediately behind the coronal suture is a depression which extends across the parietal bones, and seems to indicate that this part of the skull was subject to some habitual pressure or constric- tion ; from the use perhaps of some form of bandage or ligature. This may possibty explain the fact of the sutures of the cranium being more obliterated than is usual in persons of middle age. The capacity of the skull is large, and such as indicates a brain weigh- ing about 56 oz. The characteristics of this skull, though Ancient British or Celtic, are less strongly marked than those of the skull No. 2, which may perhaps point to a more modern period, though unfortunately the archaeological evidence as to this is wanting. The much lighter and more decayed condition of the bones is very ap- parent, and agrees with the fact of the body having been interred in a superficial cist, and covered by a barrow of slight elevation." When Dr. Thurnam made the above remark, as to the insuffici- ency of the archaeological evidence in this case, it was impossible to identify this barrow as the one in which the iron ring and pieces of ivory were found. Our recent researches however leave no doubt on the subject, and thus corroborate the opinion of Dr. Thur- nam, that it is of a more modern period than the barrrow No. 2r to which he refers. It dates probably much nearer to the Eoman period. Barrow No. 4 is situated on the brow of the hill, very near the right hand corner of the "Leipsic" plantation. It is doubtless one of the barrows opened by the late Mr. Cunnington. It is thus briefly noticed in "Hoare's Ancient Wiltshire."1 " A small circular tumulus on the right hand as you reach the summit from Devizes." (The main course of the track has been diverted from the left to the right hand of the barrow since this was written.) "At the depth of four feet and a half it produced 1 Vol. ii. p. 98. 162 Barrows on Roundway Hill a skeleton, lying from north to south, but without any accompani- ments either of arms or trinkets/' On re-opening the barrow, the skeleton as mentioned by Mr. Cunnington was found at the bottom of the cist, and with it a halfpenny deposited there when it was formerly opened. The cist is of oval shape, the longer axis is 6 feet 8 inches in length, the direction east and west. Some fragments of an Ancient Brit- ish drinking cup were found in it. The skull was unfortunately so much broken that its characteristics cannot be determined. Suffi- cient however remains to show that the person here interred was a young man, in height somewhat above the middle stature. The length of the thigh bone, 19 in. f, would indicate a stature of about 5 feet 10 inches. This bone is remarkably slender in pro- portion to its length. The tumulus is about fifteen or eighteen inches high, above the level of the Down. Its diameter is about twenty-eight feet. Barrow No. 5, on "Windmill Knoll," is a circular barrow, forty feet in diameter and three and a half high. This was opened by Dr. Thurnam, but without result. There was a small cist, but it contained no bones, nor were there any signs of an interment. It was evident that it had been previously opened, but there is no re- cord of its history. Barrow No. 6. This is the long shaped barrow near Mr. Coward's farm buildings, on the further side of the hill. It is an irregular oval, with an indistinct hour-glass contraction in the middle. It was as first supposed to be a "long barrow," properly so called, but subsequent investigations have proved that it is formed by the fill- ing in of the space between two adjoining round barrows. It is surrounded by a fosse about eighteen inches deep. The length is one hundred and thirty-four feet; the greatest width is ninety-five feet. The general direction of the barrow is about east and west. Its greatest height above the surface of the chalk is seven feet, in the depression in the middle the height is five feet. A longitudinal trench was commenced from end to end of the tumulus, and numerous fragments of pottery, bones of sheep, ox, &e. were found, also a small iron spike. Near the highest point of By Mr. Cunnington. 163 the barrow, and about eighteen inches below the turf a skeleton was discovered, but without any weapon or other relics. This is certainly a secondary interment. It had been previously disturbed, as the bones were broken and lying in much disorder, and the cranium had been altogether removed. Some fragments of the lower jaw with teeth, prove it to have been an adult. At forty-five feet from the eastern end of the barrow is a large oblong cist, ranging from west south-west to east-north east. It is five feet eight inches in length, by two feet five inches wide, and two feet deep, having a long ledge or step along the northern side. Large as is this cist, it contained only a small heap of incinerated bones, and piled up close by, the following articles: — two neatly grooved whetstones of coarse silicious sandstone, and a large whet- stone of the same material; a flat piece of sandstone, which has evidently been used as a whetstone; a well made flint arrow head; a small flint knife ; sundry flint flakes ; a small bronze spear head, having decayed wood adhering to it, probably the remains of the sheath ; a long instrument, like a netting needle, formed of deer's horn, and pointed at one end; a portion of deer's horn, cut flat at both ends, as if to form the handle of some instrument or weapon ; three oblong pieces of bone, neatly smoothed, one of them bevelled off at the ends, and a quartz pebble. This pebble was not obtained in the immediate neighbourhood, and the whetstones are of a material not found in this county. In the earth, with which the cist was filled up, were numerous flint flakes, and some fragments of pot- tery. The incinerated bones are those of an adult, beyond this fact nothing can be ascertained as to the characteristics of the in- dividual. The western end of this barrow was not examined till August 1858, on which occasion the Rector of Devizes was present. The former interment having been found at a distance of forty-five feet from the eastern end of the barrow, we marked off the same dis- tance from the western end, and commenced by digging a shaft. Immediately below the turf, evidences of human occupation of the spot were abundant ; fragments of pottery, flint flakes, and bones of ox, sheep, dog, and other domestic animals were dispersed through- 164 Barrows on Roundway Hill. out the soil. At the depth of two feet a small irregular layer of wood ashes, and some fragments of burnt bone were found. It ap- peared as if these were the ashes of the fire used for consuming the body interred below, having been thrown up on the mound after the interment. At five feet we reached the original soil ; on which was a thin sprinkling of chalk. This being followed, on one side it was found to increase in thickness, till at last it led to the cist. On digging downwards, the chalk rubble suddenly gave way beneath the feet, disclosing a hollow cavity, as the men said, like an oven. The chalk that had fallen into it was cleared away, and we shortly arrived at the interment, which consisted of incinerated bones, mixed with wood ashes, heaped up in the centre, but cov- ered with a layer of decayed wood, which extended to a length of two and a half feet, and to a breadth of twelve or fourteen inches. Beneath the bones was another layer of wood of the same extent, but in a less decomposed condition, evidently the remains of a board. As there was a considerable thickness of this substance at the sides, we came to the conclusion that the burnt bones had been enclosed in a rude chest or coffin, the decay of which had caused the chalk to fall in, and thus produced the cavity mentioned above. Under the bones was a small bronze spear, or more probably dag- ger head, with three bronze rivets. The wooden handle of it, ap- parently about a foot in length, crumbled to dust when touched. The cist, contrary to that at the other end of the barrow, was north and south. It was oblong, the south end square, the north irregularly rounded; length five feet four inches, breadth three feet, depth three feet six inches. Total depth from the surface to the bottom of the cist eight feet nine inches. The bones in this, as in the other instance, were those of an adult. Both the cists were filled up with chalk, not with earth. No. 7. This interesting barrow was opened by the desire of the late E. F. Colston, Esq. in 1840. An account of the investigation was sent to the Devizes Gazette by the late Mr. Stoughton Money, and a description of some of the articles found in it, accompanied with an engraving, was published by J. Yonge Akerman, Esq., Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries, in his " Remains of Pmjan By Mr. Cunnington. 165 Saxondom," plate i. From these sources we obtain the following particulars. " The barrow in question is a small one on the apex of Roundway down, which though particularly mentioned by Sir R. Colt Hoare, somehow or other escaped examination by that in- defatigable antiquary. On digging into it, at the depth of seven feet the workmen reached the natural chalk level, and came to a skeleton very much decayed, which had formerly been enclosed in a wooden cist bound round and clamped together with strong iron plates or hoops. Several portions of this iron work, though in a very corroded state, had fibres of the wood still adhering to them, and remained precisely as originally placed. The skeleton lay east and west, the head towards the latter point. At the feet was one of those vessels which are sometimes discovered in the graves of this period, in the shape of a?pail, hooped with brass, and orna- mented with about twenty triangular pieces of the same metal. Near the neck of the skeleton were found some elegant ornaments, consisting of garnets and vitrified pastes strongly set in gold. " There were also two gold pins with garnets set in the head, and connected by a chain of the same metal, suspended to the centre of which, is a small medallion bearing a cruciform pattern. This, and a triangular plate of a paste-like composition, set in gold, led Mr. Money to the conclusion that the grave was that of a Christian Romanized Briton, who existed in one of the four first centuries after Christ." Mr. Akerman however expresses a doubt on this subject, which we are quite inclined to support, and says that it is by no means certain, that the body was that of a Christianized Anglo-Saxon Lady, " for though the ornament in the centre of the chain represents a cross, we cannot receive it as a conclusive evi- dence of the faith of the wearer. The same remark applies to the triangular shaped pendant. That this form of necklace was popu- lar in the sixth century we may infer from the circumstance of its occurring on the neck of a bust of Roma, which appears on the coins of the Gothic monarchs, struck in Italy about this time." An engraving of one of these coins is included in Mr. Akerman'& plate. Mrs. Colston having kindly allowed me a further examination 166 Barrows on lioundway Hill. of the fragments of the vessel mentioned above, I have been enabled to ascertain its original size. It was about nine inches in height, and five and a half inches diameter. The wood of which it was formed was thin, apparently less than a quarter of an inch in thickness. Microscopic examination proves it not to have been coniferous wood. There were two hoops only, one of them is en- tire; they are formed of thin brass, over-lapping at the ends, and the joints were made with soft solder. The ornaments consist of rows of dots, produced by punching on the inside of the hoops. The broader hoop was fastened to the wood with iron rivets, the heads of which were plated with brass. The triangular plates are also of brass, they were secured to the pail by an iron rivet through the point of each, the broad ends being inserted under the hoop. They are decorated with rows offplots, similar to those on the hoops. Mr. Akerman remarks, "That it is much to be regretted that the excavation of this tumulus was not superintended by some person accustomed to such researches, bs the details which have reached us are not so satisfactory as could be desired." It is in- deed too true that much valuable information is lost because the persons who open barrows are not experienced in the matter, and do not make full and correct observations. In the same year Mr. Colston made some extensive plantations on Roundway Hill, and in the early part of August the workmen disinterred three skeletons, which were found lying close together, a little more than a foot beneath the surface, at the bottom of an old trench, which takes a direction east and west across the Down, immediately opposite Castle Hill. They subsequently found another skeleton about three quarters of a furlong to the south-west of the last, at the same depth below the surface, but this was the most remarkable of the four, inasmuch as the skull exhibited two severe sabre wounds, one on the front, the other on the hinder part, and the right arm severed from the body, had been deposited between the legs of the corpse. The bones were those of a strong young man, who judging from the thigh and leg would stand upwards of six feet in height. Each of the skeletons, from the comparative On the Ornithology of Wilts \_Silviadce~\. 167 freshness of their appearance, may be fairly assigned to the period at which the battle of Roundway took place, and unquestionably are the remains of individuals engaged in that memorable fray. No weapon of any kind was found with them, the bodies having evidently been stripped of all military accoutrements before they were committed to their desolate grave. It would appear that the greater part, if not all, of the slain were interred on the spot where they fell; for neither the registers of Bishop's Cannings, Bromham, Heddington, nor of the three churches in Devizes, contain any re- cord of burials connected with the battle: the register of Rowde forming an exception in one instance only. Although no relics were found in the immediate vicinity of the skeletons, the labour- ers in the course of their work dug up a cannon ball weighing 2f lbs., a stirrup of curious form, a large spur, from half a dozen to a dozen bullets, and several fragments of iron, the use of which, owing to their decayed and shapeless state, it is difficult to ascer- tain. #n % ®ntitlj0lagji of Wilk No. 9.— INSES80RES (Pcrchers). Dentirostres (tooth-billed) . Continued. SILYIAD2E (The Warblers). ' SS||HE very name of this family speaks of warmth and spring ( jUjjl! an(l harmony : and even in the depth of winter, conjures I up before our imaginations lively pictures of the coppice and the i1 hedgerows bursting into full leaf, radiant in the sunshine; the air redolent with the perfume of a thousand flowers, and filled with [the song of countless birds: it is pleasant to bask for awhile in |3uch a sunny spot, while we pass in review before us the sweet 'songsters of the grove, which compose the family we are considering. The warblers are the largest family amongst all the birds, I do (inot mean numerically but specifically; and with a few exceptions they may all be found in Wiltshire, no less than nineteen species being either indigenous to our county, or periodical or occasional 168 On the Ornithology of Wilts \&ifoiadee\. visitants; but some of these species bear such a close resemblance to1 one another, and are so extremely difficult to distinguish from one another, that they will defy any but the most accurate and pains- taking observer to discover their personal identity. Their principal characteristics are elegance and gracefulness of form, a delicate structure and slenderness of bill, and a sweetness and richness of note; and though some may be disposed to cavil at the statement, I am inclined to the opinion that in a greater or lesser degree all the species composing this family partake of these three characteristics. "Alpine Accentor" (Accentor alpinus.) I confess I have no right to head the warblers of Wiltshire with this rare visitant to our is- land, as I have no instance before me of its undoubted occurrence in this county ; still from the facts, that one of the three instances of its occurrence given by Yarrell, was in the adjoining county of Somerset, from the garden of the Deanery at Wells ; that the specimen in Mr. Marsh's collection was said to have been killed near Bath ; and that the opinion of that keen and accurate observer coincides with my own, that these birds are probably much more common than is generally supposed, their shy retiring habits and sombre plumage never making them conspicuous; from these pre- mises I venture to conclude that the "Alpine accentor" probably visits us occasionally, and I therefore give it a place in our Fauna. In colour it is reddish brown, but the chief distinguishing features which mark it at once from its congener, the common "Hedge ac- centor," are its greater size and the dull-white throat, thickly spot- ted with black. It is not uncommon on the Continent, and is described as courageous and confiding, and frequenting rocks and stones in preference to bushes. "Hedge Accentor." (Accentor modtilaris) well known to every one as the hedge sparrow, though the name is most unfortunate, causing it to be confused in the minds of many with the house sparrow, with which it has not the smallest affinity, the latter be- ing bold, hard billed, and grain loving, while the hedge accentor or hedge warbler is meek, soft billed, and insect eating. Unlike most of this family, the hedge warbler remains with us throughout the winter, and loves to creep about the bottoms of hedges and By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 169 among shrubs, and if there is a pile of old wood lying about the yard, there you may invariably see its dusky figure, as it seeks a scanty subsistence, not disdaining to search for food at the bottom of drains and gutters, for pride has no part in its composition, not one of all the race being so modest and humble as this. Its song though not loud nor continuous, is sweet, but chiefly prized for the season at which it may be heard; it sings indeed all the year through, but in winter amid piercing winds and frost and snow it is refreshing to hear the warblings of this little bird, as it sits perched on some shrub or bush'; while, as the spring advances and brings in troops of other and louder warblers, nobody notices the poor Hedge Accentor amidst the flood of music which then abounds. There is one exception here however, for at this season the cuckoo singles out the Hedge Warbler and shows its appreciation of its domestic qualities, by the doubtful compliment of selecting its nest oftener than^that of any other bird wherein to deposit her egg. " Redbreast." (Sylvia rubecula.) Not only in England, but throughout Northern Europe, in Sweden and Norway, Russia, and Germany, the Redbreast is a favourite, and has a name of en- dearment: with us he is Robin; in Sweden he is Tommy; in Norway and Russia, Peter ; and in Germany, Thomas ; but in Italy and France he shares the fate of all other birds, little as well as big, and is mercilessly killed and eaten. Mr. Waterton says he has counted more than fifty lying dead on one stall at Rome, so that it is no wonder English travellers complain of the silence of the woods and fields in France and Italy, and lament the absence of the varied members of the feathered race which cheer and en- liven us at home. Now I have often heard it asked, why the Red- breast is so great a favourite ? and its confidence in man has been regarded as the result of its immunity from persecution, but I ap- prehend this is mistaking the cause for the effect ; for this above all other birds is by nature tame and familiar with man, fearlessly venturing close to him, and by its very confidence begetting the protection which its innocence and bravery seem to claim : for that indeed must be a bad and cruel heart, which could abuse such an appeal, and long may our village children, and indeed all of every L 170 On the Ornithology of Wilts \_&ilmada>.~\ age and rank respect this one at least of our winter songsters, so harmless, so pretty, and so confiding. "Redstart/' (Phcenicura rubicilla.) Towards the end of April this handsome and interesting bird arrives in great numbers, and may be continually seen darting after insects on the wing, and capturing them with unerring precision ; or running after its prey on the* grass with equal certainty of success. In plumage it is the brightest and gayest of all the warblers ; the female in more sombre hue than her mate, is clad in a dress of pale reddish brown ; but the male, with his jet black head and throat, bright chesnut breast and tail, white forehead, and grey back, presents a handsome appearance from the contrast and combination of colours ; but the distinctive peculiarity of these birds consists in their spreading out the feathers of the orange-red tail, and jerking it from side to side, an action belonging to the redstarts alone, and 03' which they may- be distinguished from all other birds : they delight in buildings, especially old walls, in the crevices of which they make their nests ; they are good songsters, and continue their song from morning till night. "Stonechat." (Saxicola rubicola.) This and the two following species comprise the genus " Chat," and all of them are tolerably numerous in this county : they are pretty, little, lively, restless, noisy birds, and their absence would cause a sad blank on our Downs, which they chiefly frequent : their habit is to flirt the tail up and down continually, but not after the manner of the redstart. The stonechat is the only one which remains with us through the winter, and may generally be met with in stony places, or open pastures covered with small shrubs : it is of bright plumage, the head, neck, back, and throat nearly black ; wing and tail coverts and sides of the neck white ; and rich chesnut breast : it utters a kind of clicking note, and is for ever on the move from one stone to another, or from the summit of one bush to the next. Mr. Marsh says it is called the "Furze Robin" in his neighbourhood. "Whinchat." (Saxicola rubetra.) The haunts, habits, and general character of this warbler are very like those of the last described : it is to be met with in the same localities, and though By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 171 not quite so common as the stonechat, may often be seen on our Downs. Montagu speaking of it fifty years ago, says "it is plenti- ful in Wiltshire," but being a shy and solitary bird, only seen singly or in pairs, it is certainly not now numerous. In plumage it is not so gay as its congener, but prettily marked, and in colour mottled brown ; and in song it is pronounced superior : it is also said, when reared from the nest in a cage, to be a skilful imitator of other birds. It derives its name of " Whinchat" and "Furze- chat,'' from the whin or furze which it loves to frequent : with us it is migratory, arriving in April and departing for more Southern latitudes in the autumn. "Wheatear." (Saxicola cenanthe.) This is essentially one of our Down birds, and few inhabitants of Wiltshire can be ignorant of its handsome active figure: it loves the bare open Down, especially a stony Down, where it flits from stone to stone in search of its in- sect food : it is the largest of the genus, and very prettily marked ; the upper part of the head and back pearl grey, the wings and cheeks black, the under parts pale buff, while the upper part of the tail is pure white, and from the singular manner in which by a lateral expansion of the feathers it spreads its tail like a fan, it may at once be recognized : it is migratory, but one of the first to arrive, and the last to leave us. For several years past I have noticed its first appearance here on or within two days of the 26th March : it is considered a great delicacy, and in consequence is much sought for in some districts ; it breeds in a deserted rabbit burrow, or some deep hole under the turf. Mr. Marsh says, it is called in Wiltshire the "Horse Snatcher," but he does not know the reason of the term, and the name is quite new to me. " Grasshopper Warbler." (Salicaria locustella.) This, the most shy and retiring of all the warblers, derives its name from the rapid ticking noise which it will continue for a long time without intermission ; and its curious note is so like the chirp of the grass- hopper, that it is often mistaken for it. As soon as it arrives in the spring, it makes known the fact by the cricket-like ticking which proceeds from the midst of the very thickest bush or furze, where it hides itself from human sight, and here it skulks and l 2 172 On the Ornithology of Wilt* [SMadce]. creeps, and at the bottom of the furze amid the thickest grass it conceals its nest : indeed so shy is it that it is rarely seen, and but for its incessant chirp would escape general notice. Selby calls it a ventriloquist, because it not only imitates the notes of several other birds, but in uttering its peculiar note can cause the sound at one moment to proceed from the immediate neighbourhood of the listener, and at the next, as if removed to some distance, and this without any actual change of place in the operator ; a pecu- liarity which it shares with the corn crake, also a bird very diffi- cult to raise on the wing. It is of elegant shape, and its plumage consists of mottled shades of brown. Montagu speaking of the localities where he had seen this bird, says, "we have found it in Hampshire, South Wales, and Ireland, but no where so plentiful as on Malmesbury Common in Wiltshire, to which place the males come about the latter end of April." I have also many notes of its occurrence in all parts of the county, but sparingly, for it is not so common as either of its congeners, and is much more retiring and timid. " Sedge Warbler/' (Salicaria phragmitis.) We must look for this elegant species by the banks of streams or the margins of lakes, and there amongst the tall sedge and reeds we shall be almost sure to find it, for it' is by far the commonest of the genus, and few patches of sedge or willow beds are without it : it is an incessant songster, or rather chatterer, for its notes though very various and rapid, are not particularly melodious, and yet from its habit of singing throughout the summer's night, it has been sometimes mistaken for the nightingale: when silent, it may be excited to renew its song by the simple expedient of throwing a stone into the bush where it is concealed. Its colour is on the upper parts oil green and yellowish brown, and below yellowish dusky white, but though it closely resembles its congeners in other respects, it may on comparison be distinguished from them by the distinct white streak that passes above the eyes. "Reed Warbler." (Salicaria arundinacea.) Very difficult, but for the mark over the eye, just described, is this species to be dis- tinguished from the last, which it resembles in the time of its ar- By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 173 rival and departure, in the localities it frequents, in habits, general appearance, and colour : it is however not nearly so common. Mon- tagu says that " in Wiltshire and Somersetshire where the Sedge Warbler abounds, not a single Reed Warbler is. to be found;" here, however, our worthy countryman is mistaken, for I have myself observed it by the banks of more than one reecly stream ; Mr. Marsh has frequently seen it on the Avon; Mr. Withers has taken it near Devizes, and I have several other notices of its periodical appear- ance among us.' Mr. Selby pronounces its song to be superior to that of the Sedge Warbler, both in volume and in sweetness, but in truth it requires a very accurate ear as well as eye to distinguish these two graceful little warblers from one another. "Nightingale." (Philomela luscinia.) I need not point out the localities which these birds frequent, for who does not know whe- ther a nightingale haunts the thicket near him, and who does not remember the spots where he has listened to this wondrous songster of the grove, or as good old Izaak Walton styles it, this "chiefest of the little nimble musicians of the air that warble forth their curious ditties, with which nature has furnished them, to the shame of art ?" But the nightingale seems very fanciful in her selection of habitation, and is guided by some choice which we cannot fathom : in the most western and warmest parts of our island it is rarely heard, and in our own county while one wood resounds night after night, and year after year with their wondrous melody, a neighbouring copse, apparently in all respects equally suited to their tastes, is never honoured by their presence. It arrives here towards the end of April or beginning of May, and being of a very shy, timid nature, seeks the thickest hedges and most impenetrable copses, where though so often listened to, it is rarely seen, and few are acquainted with the form of the humble but elegant little brown bird, which charms them so with its unrivalled song. Its name is derived (as Pennant informs us) from our English night, and the Saxon word galan to sing; not however that it is silent during the day, but then the chorus of voices, loud and shrill and numerous, drown it so that it cannot so readily be distinguished as in the witch- ing hour of twilight, when other songsters are hushed in repose. 174 On the Ornithology of Wilts [Sifoidtfce]. " Blackcap Warbler." {Curruca atricapilla.) This active little war- bler is second only to the nightingale in song, and being a regular summer visitant to our gardens and orchards, as well as hedgerows, is known to most observers: its general colour is ash grey, but its jet black head marks it at once from all others: insects and fruit are its favourite food, but few will quarrel with it on the latter ac- count, as it makes ample amends for any petty thefts it may com- mit in the garden by the sweetness of its song, and its interesting and engaging manners : it is a timid bird and very restless, scarcely stationary an instant, except when it pours forth its rich and clear notes from the top of some tree or bush. Mr. Marsh thinks it is not very common in Wiltshire, but my own observation does not agree here, as I have seen it frequently in many parts of the county ; and it arrives here as well as in the neighbourhood of Devizes re- gularly every spring in some numbers. " Garden Warbler." {Curruca hortensis.) Though closely re- sembling in general colour and appearance several others of this family, the garden warbler may on comparison be distinguished from its congeners by its superior size, being nearly an inch longer than any other species answering to the same description. Its plumage is greyish green above, and greenish yellow below : it is even more restless, more shy, and more retiring than the last de- scribed, and is at least equally common. It frequents the same localities, has the same propensity for fruit, and is an excellent songster : this and the two following species are indiscriminately called "Nettle Creepers" by our Wiltshire lads. It is the "Greater Pettychaps " of Pennant, Latham, Montagu, White, and our ear- lier ornithologists : and it is the famous " Beccafico," so highly prized as an epicure's morsel in Italy and France. Montagu says of it; " In Wiltshire where I have found this species not uncommon, it resorts to gardens in the latter end of summer, together with the Whitethroat and Blackcap for the sake of currants and other fruit." "Common Whitethroat." {Curruca cinerea.) This is the com- monest of all our little summer warblers, and may be seen in every shady lane or thick hedge, almost in every bramble and bed of nettles. Its head and back are light brown, under parts dusky By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 175 white slightly tinged with rose red : in habits it resembles its con- geners previously described ; but it has one peculiarity, which consists in its often singing on the wing, as it rises with a very peculiar flight, sailing round in little circles, till it attains a con- siderable height in the air, and then descends slowly to the same spot whence it started : at other times it will erect its crest, puff out its throat, stretch its neck, and exhibit every mark of excite- ment and defiance, while it seems to strain every nerve to raise its voice above its rivals. " Lesser Whitethroat." (Curruca sylviella.) Quite as common in Wiltshire, if not more so, than the last, with which it is often confounded. Indeed the eggs of this and the preceding species form a large proportion of the whole on every schoolboy's string, a table by the way of no mean authority in calculating the abund- ance or rarity of any species in any particular locality. It is even more retiring than its larger namesake, and creeps away out of sight among the brambles the instant it is discovered, threading its way with the rapidity and adroitness of the mouse. From the peculiar character of its note, a low soft warble, it is called the "Babbling Warbler," and by Continental naturalists, "C. garrula," and " Bec-fin babillard'" and from the clicking sounds with which it repeats its call-note, somewhat resembling a mill-wheel, it is styled in Grerman "Miillerchen," or "Little Miller." Montagu says that he observed the arrival of this bird in Wiltshire for seve- ral years together, and that it ranged from Apr^} 21st to May 10th. "Wood Warbler." (Sylvia sylvicola.) Extremely difficult is it to identify this pretty little bird from its two congeners, more par- ticularly from the one next to be described: both are graceful and elegant, and frequent woods and plantations; both have a plumage of grey green above and primrose yellow below : both feed on in- sects, and sing sweetly from the top of some tall tree. There are however several marks by which we may distinguish them ; on close examination, we shall find that the wood warbler has a purer green on the upper parts of its body, and more white on its under plumage, while the willow warbler has more yellow: and again, the nest of the wood warbler is always lined with fine grass and 176 On the Ornithology of Wilts [Silviadce]. hair, while that of the willow warbler contains feathers. To Gil- bert White is due the credit of separating and calling attention to the points of difference between these closely allied species, and his 19th letter to Pennant is entirely occupied with this subject. The wood warbler (called by White the "Sibilous Pettychaps,") is a trifle larger than its congeners, and has a remarkable tremulous note ; hence its scientific name : it is not so numerous as the other species, but it visits us annually, and I have often met with its nest near Devizes. "Willow Warbler." (Sylvia trochilus.) This is by far the most abundant of the genus, and may be seen in every plantation and hedgerow, but chiefly in meadows intersected with streams and water courses, which give birth to osiers and willows, for amongst these it delights to revel. In addition to the points of difference mentioned above, it far surpasses its congeners in song, indeed so sweet and musical are its notes, as to give it the sobriquet of the "Warbling Pettychaps," and " Melodious Willow Wren." Gilbert White says it has a "joyous, easy, laughing note ;" it is constantly in motion, flitting from branch to branch, in search of the smaller insects that constitute its food. " Chiff Chaff." (Sylvia hippolais.) This is one of our earliest spring arrivals, making its appearance in March, and immediately beginning its monotonous song of two notes, which it continues to repeat throughout the summer, and from whence it derives its name. It is the smallest of the three species, and differs very little from the last, but may be always distinguished by the dark colour of its legs and feet, those of the Willow Warbler being of a pale brown : it is much more familiar than its congeners, and as it reaches us be- fore the trees and hedges are in leaf, is more frequently seen and better known. It is sometimes styled the "Lesser Pettychaps, and is sprightly and active. " Dartford Warbler." (Melizophilus Dartfordiensis.) I have many instances before me of the occurrence of this pretty little warbler in Wiltshire, though I have no personal acquaintance with it in a living state. It is said to frequent open Downs and com- mons abounding in furze, in the thickest parts of which it will By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 177 conceal itself : and over which it will hover on outstretched wing, while it utters its short hurried note. It is a hardy bird, and re- mains here throughout the year: its body is very small, scarcely exceeding that of the common wren, but its great length of tail gives it the appearance of superior bulk : the general colour of its plumage is dark brown above, and chesnut brown beneath. Mr. Withers informs me that some years since, several of these birds were shot annually by Mr. Edwards at Amesbury : they were de- coyed from the midst of the bush wherein they concealed themselves by a certain noise made by Mr. Edwards, when they rose to the top spray and were easily killed. Mr. Marsh was also informed by the man who procured the specimen in his collection, that by imi- tating their note he could bring these birds to the top of the furze, and that he had so killed three in one morning in the neighbour- hood of Chippenham. "Golden Crested Regulus." (Regulus cristatus.) Well known to every one is this charming little favourite, the smallest and most fairy like of all our British birds; three inches and a half only in length, and 75 grains in weight, yet it braves the cold of winter, and remains with us throughout the year. It prefers fir planta- tions, but may be seen in hedgerows and gardens : it is incessant in motion, hopping from branch to branch, now clinging to the under boughs of the firs with back downwards, in search of its in- sect food; wherein it closely resembles the titmice, with which it often associates ; now hovering over a twig or flower, suspended in the air, and fluttering its wings, and all the while singing melo- diously; wherein it resembles the little warblers last described, and so forming a link between the two families. Its colours are brown- ish green and greenish yellow, while its head is ornamented with a stripe of long silky feathers, yellow tipped with orange, forming a golden crown. It abounds in this county, as I know by personal observation, and it sometimes breeds in my garden. PARIDiE {The Titmice). Exceedingly interesting are all the members of this pert active family, ever restless, creeping and running and flitting from bough 178 On the Ornithology of Wilts [Panda], to bough, in quest of insect food; careless whether they are hang- ing beneath or climbing along, or running up or down the branch ; hardy too, for they are all permanent residents here; chattering, and bold and familiar and pugnacious withal. The genus Parus contains in all seven species, of which five are to be found abund- antly in "Wiltshire, the remaining two, the " Crested Tit," (Parus cristatus) and the "Bearded Tit," (Parus biarmicus) being of very rare occurrence in England, and no instance having reached me of the appearance of either of them in this county. "Great Titmouse." (Parus major.) First in point of size, and therefore at the head of the family, stands this well known bird, whose peculiar markings and well contrasted colours render it un- mistakeable. The black head, white cheeks, and yellow breast parted down the middle by a broad black stripe, distinguish it at once from all others. The Great Tit is to be found in every wooded district, and it clears the buds and leaves of trees from an incredible number of insects; but it loves fruit as well, and being somewhat bold, fierce, and bloodthirsty, will occasionally vary its diet with the flesh of some dead bird, whose bones it picks with wonderful skill. "Blue Titmouse." (Parus cceruleus.) Commonly called the " Tom Tit," and as well known by its blue cap and pert appear- ance, as by its lively active habits: like the Great Tit, its efforts are directed not against the buds and blossoms, with which it is so often charged, but against the larvae and eggs of the insect tribe, which are therein deposited in incredible quantities, and which these useful little birds seek out and consume: it is for its size, the most bold and pugnacious of the feathered race, and will attack and sometimes kill birds considerably larger and heavier than it- self. It is so constantly before our eyes, that I need say no more of its appearance or habits. " Cole Titmouse." (Parus ater.) Not so common as the two last species, but generally distributed, and of similar habits: it closely resembles in appearance the Marsh Tit, next to be described, both having black heads, white cheeks, and grejdsh olive- green backs, but the Cole Titmouse may at once be recognized by the irregular By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 179 white patch at the back of its neck, which is totally wanting in the Marsh Tit. "Marsh Titmouse." (Parus palustris.) The specific name points out the localities which this Tit frequents. I should say it is not so common in this county as the last, at least I have not met with it so often ; but wherever there is moist ground, and alders and willows flourish, there it may frequently be seen. "Long-tailed Titmouse." (Parus caudatus.) This very ball of feathers with a long tail is common in all woods, and may be found in hedgerows, but rarely visits our gardens : its body is scarcely bigger than that of the " Golden Crested Regulus," but its very long tail, and its habit of puffing out its feathers give it an appear- ance of greater size than it realty possesses : its beautiful oval nest, so cleverly formed of moss and wool, coated with lichen and lined with feathers, is the greatest marvel of the kind we possess in this country, and in this snug cradle it will rear twelve or more young ; and in the winter months you may see the whole family, including the parents, flitting with undulating movements from tree to tree, and hanging in an inverted position from the ends of the small twigs, while in search of insect food. It is sometimes called pro- vincially "Bottle Tom" from the shape of its nest, and in this county is generally styled "Huckmuck," a truly Wiltshire word, the derivation of which I cannot fathom. AMPELIDiE (Waxwings). Of the family of Fruit-eaters we have but one single example occurring in England: their characteristics are short bill but wide gape, enabling them to swallow whole the large berries and fruits on which they feed ; and short legs and feet formed for perching, as they are never seen on the ground. The single species visiting us is styled the " Bohemian Waxwing." (Bomby •cilia garrula.) Called also the "Silktail," and "Chatterer;" it is a winter visitant, and though it occasionally comes in some numbers, it is by no means regular or periodical in its arrival ; an interval of several years often elaps- ing between its visits. It is recorded by Bay to have appeared in 180 On the Ornithology of Wilts \_Motaeillidce]. < this country in large flocks in the winter of 1685: Gilbert White records its visit in 1767 : Bewick in 1790, 1791: Selby in 1810, 1822/ and 1823: Yarrell in 1830, 1831, 1834, and 1835, since which with the exception of an occasional straggler it has only ap- peared in 1848 and 1850, the latter year in immense numbers, and nothing has been seen of it in England since. Its true habitat is Northern Asia, and the North Eastern parts of Europe, where a friend of mine two years since discovered its nest and eggs which up to that time were unknown to science. It is a handsome, gay bird, of a cinnamon brown colour, tinged with red : the feathers on the head are long and silkj in texture, forming a crest, but the peculiarity from which it takes its name, consists in its having on the tips of the wing quill feathers, little flat scarlet horny append- ages, exactly resembling drops of red sealing wax : the tail fea- thers are tipped with pale yellow. Its natural food appears to be the berries of the hawthorn, juniper, and mountain ash ; and it usually associates in flocks. I was told in Norway that this bird visits that country also at irregular periods, many years sometimes elapsing between its visits. It was as abundant throughout Scan- dinavia in 1850 as it was here. I have many notices of its occur- rence in this county. Mr. Marsh has seen it in the woods at Win- terslow, and states that a pair were killed in Clarendon Park in 1820. Mr. Withers tells me that many were killed at Potterne in 1850 ; and (besides a few more instances) the Rev. H. Hare of Bradford sent me notice of one killed in his field Dec. 7th, 1857. MOTACILLIDiE {The Wagtails). Graceful and elegant are the epithets best suited to this family, as everybody will confess who has watched their engaging manners, running along the grass-plots, darting by the streams, and ever flirting their long tails, which alone seem to preserve their equili- brium, as they hurry this side and that, and seem in danger of losing their balance. They are of slender form and very active, the lightest and most buoyant of birds; and as most of them re- main with us during the winter, they are doubly valued and doubly welcome. By the Rev. A. C. Smith. 181 "Pied Wagtail." (MotaciUa Yarrellii.) No one can be ignorant of this very coinmoD bird, with its party coloured dress of black and white: its food consists of insects which it finds in running over the grass, or on the margins of streams and lakes, in the shallow waters of which it will wade in search of its tiny prey. Gilbert White also long ago called attention to its habit, which we may constantly verify, of running close up to feeding cows, in order to avail itself of the flies that settle on their legs, and other insects j roused by the trampling of their feet. A pair of these pretty birds return every year to rear their young in a rose tree trained against my house. The provincial name for it here is " Dishwasher." " Grey Wagtail." (MotaciUa boarula.) By no means common, but yet generally though sparingly dispersed, and to be found in most localities : it is even more graceful and slender, and has a i still longer tail than the last; its prevailing colours are slate-grey : above, and bright yellow below, with black throat, wings, and tail : it haunts the margins of streams, which it seldom leaves, and is on the whole less sociable and familiar than its pied relative: like the [last, it remains here throughout the winter. "Grey-headed Wagtail." (MotaciUa neglecta.) I place this rare i wagtail amongst the Wiltshire birds, on the authority of Mr. i Marsh, who possesses a specimen killed at Marshfield near Chip- Ipenham, in Oct. 1841. It bears so close a resemblance in every Irespect to the next to be described, that it is extremely difficult to pee any difference between them : it may however be distinguished ■by the white line over the eyes, which in Rays Wagtail is yellow ; Band by the grey head, which in M. flava is light olive : moreover,, it is a winter visitant when M. flava has left us. " Rays Wagtail." (MotaciUa flava.) This is our common yellow Iwagtail, which flocks here every summer, and leaves us in the ■autumn : it frequents open plantations and arable land, has a ■shorter tail, and is altogether less graceful than the Grey Wagtail : I in colour too it is more yellow; the olive-green of its upper plumage Ipartaking of the yellow tinge, which is so bright and clear below. ANTHIDiE (The Pipits). This is the last family of the tooth-billed tribe, and it forms an 182 On the Ornithology of Wilts [AntMdm]. excellent connecting link between the soft-billed insect eaters, and the hard-billed grain consumers. In many respects allied to the wagtails last described, in others nearly resembling the larks, the first family of the Conirostral tribe, it is however a true soft-billed race, and subsists entirely on insects. " Tree Pipit." (Anthus arboreus.) This is a summer visitor, and though far from common, ma}7 be seen in most woodland districts: it is by far the most beautiful of the genus, and the sweetest song- ster ; and has a habit of rising above the top of some tall tree, and singing with outstretched wings on its descent : in colour it very much resembles the larks; is somewhat larger than its congener next to be described, from which it differs in the stronger and broader bill, and in the short and hooked hind claw: also its gait on the ground is a slow walk, while the "Meadow Pipit" runs af- ter the manner of the wagtails. "Meadow Pipit." (Anthus pratens is.) Very common, especially on our furze-clad Downs, where it remains the whole year, though it will occasionally assemble in flocks, and haunts stubble and tur- nip fields in winter: it is generally known as the Titlark, and sings in the air as it descends to the earth, as its cousin the Tree Pipit does in descending to some lofty tree top ; it is a quiet, unobtrusive bird, builds its nest on the ground, and is very frequently the fos- ter parent of the young cuckoo: its hind toe is furnished with an elongated and straightened claw : its bill is slender ; it warbles rather than sings ; and its flight consists in short jerks. Mr. Marsh says that its scent is so strong, that pointers commonly mis- take it for the partridge, indeed much more frequently than they do the skylark. This closes the list of the tooth-billed perchers, resident in or visiting Wiltshire. Alfred Charles Smith. Yatesbury Rectory, Calne, February 8th, 1859. • •4 183 Jjfnrate attir Jkgmeg of "^v&tqm" HE following observations, on the various frauds which have been practised in forging or falsifying works of art and an- tiquity, were made by A. W. Franks, Esq., at a Meeting of the Society of Antiquaries 16th Dec. 1858. As they may be of use in warning Archa3ologists and the public against imposition, it has been thought desirable to give a further circulation to them in our Provincial Magazine. " The exhibition of some leaden objects at our last meeting gave rise to observations on the system of counterfeiting ancient works of art, to the detri- ment of archaeological science, and the discouragement of many from pursuing the study of antiquities. I have therefore thought that it might be acceptable to the Fellows of the Society to have an opportunity of examining a few speci- finens of such counterfeits, and of hearing a few observations on the subject. ' ' The forging of flint arrow-heads has been brought before the Society on two former occasions,* and has likewise been noticed in the Archaeological Journal, vol. xiii. pp. 85, 104, and 411. The modern arrow-heads appear to have been manufactured in Yorkshire, though itinerants have offered them for sale in other parts of England, and still continue to do so. They are stated to have been made by a man who resides or used to reside at Fylingdales, close to Robin Hood's Bay.f The dusty appearance of the surface is said to be produced by boiling them in mud. The best criterion of the genuineness of arrow-heads and other objects in flint is the state of the surface, as, except under certain rare conditions, the outer coat of the flint becomes oxydised by long contact with the earth. Another fraud has been practised with regard to flints, which I think was first exposed by Mr. Syer Cuming, which consists in obtaining chips of flint from some old manufactories for making gun-flints on the north coast of Kent, and pretending that they were discovered in British urns. J Celts of basalt are said to be manufactured in the North of Ireland, and I have reason to believe that some stone axe-heads, of very peculiar form, have been fabri- cated in Yorkshire. British urns have been forged in the neighbourhood of Scarborough. The same district has furnished the numerous jet seals which have appeared in various parts of England, and the original type of which is the genuine seal of Osbert de Hilton in the Whitby Museum. We appear to be indebted to Italy for the greater part of the forged matrices of seals in brass which are to be found in curiosity shops. They are, however, simply casts from * Proceedings, vol. iv p. 5, and 233. + Archaeological Journal, vol. xiii. p. 411. $ Journal of British Archaeological Association, vol. xiv. p. 94. 184 Frauds and Forgeries of Antiques." other matrices, or from ancient impressions of seals: and, therefore, although they are worthless as being of modern make, the designs upon them are really old, and perhaps will only reach us through their means. " Before entering on the question of forgeries of classical antiquities, it may be well to say a few words on a matter relating to our own country, in which the fraud does not rest with the articles themselves, but with the circumstances under which they are stated to have been discovered. The older collectors regarded but little the locality in which, or the circumstances under which, the various relics were found ; but this is no longer the case. The numerous local antiquaries who have sprung up since archaeology has been more carefully studied, are anxious to obtain antiquities from some particular locality, and are prepared to pay larger prices for them in consequence. Spurious localities are therefore invented, and Greek, Etruscan, Egyptian, and Italian antiquities are palmed off on the unwary as having been found in his own native soil. I have been informed by dealers in curiosities that labourers frequently come to their shops and purchase miscellaneous rubbish to be retailed to any stray archaeolo- gist who should venture near their work.* I remember some years since being shown a modern Abyssinian sandal duly steeped in oil, which purported to have been found in Roman London ; and I have seen even Greek vases, which were said to be found in digging the foundations in the city ; one of them I strongly suspect to have been recently brought from the Cyrenaica, and another had all the marks of having been through the hands of an Italian restorer of modern times. Such frauds are carried on to a great extent in coins, and the recent works in the city have supplied a profitable outlet for the rubbish of coin sales. " With regard to foreign antiquities, forgeries of Egyptian remains are not unfrequent, some of them shewing considerable skill in their workmanship. Mr. Cuming has recorded in the Journal of the British Archaeological Associa- tion his having seen some scarabaei, formed of amethyst which had been manu- factured in this country for a foreign market, f Italy has not been behind hand in seeking for fraudulent gain ; although its ancient soil teems with remains of the past, the number does not seem to be sufficient to supply the demands of the travellers of all nations who visit it, and accordingly terra-cotta figures, bronzes, vases, gems, &c, appear as required, and are carried home as trophies by the deluded traveller. Such fabrications are of some standing. The clever imita- tions of Roman* coins produced by those famous Paduan artists, Giovanni Cavino and Alessandro Bassiano, are well known, J and in several museums are to be found bronze lacrymatories which, from the inscription upon them, purport to contain the tears of Caesar's wife. At the commencement of the last century, several supposititious remains of Christian antiquity appear to have been fabric- ated, including, as I have been informed by a distinguished foreign archaeologist, some of the small pictures formed of gold and glass, made in imitation of those found in the Catacombs, which are so much valued in museums. The imitation of ancient glass vessels seems to be carried on at Naples, and is well exemplified * For an account of similar frauds see Journal of British Archaeological Association, vol. ix. p. 89, and vol. xi. p. 72. Much credit is due to Mr. Gunston and Mr. Syer Cuming for having exposed these frauds. + Journal of British Archceological Association, vol xi. p. 72. t See a catalogue of their works in " Cabinet de 1' Amateur et de l'Autiquaire," torn. i. p. 586. Paris, 1842. Frauds and Forgeries of "Antiques" 185 by the specimen on the table, which I am enabled to exhibit by the kindness of a friend ; a broken Venetian vase, of remarkably fine form, has been taken, the missing foot supplied by one of terra-cotta, and the whole covered with some glutinous matter which serves to fix on the surface decomposed flakes of ancient glass, concealing the fractures and the discrepancy between the body and the foot. The wonderful skill with which ancient gems were imitated has caused the comparative neglect under which that interesting branch of archaeo- logy has fallen in this country. " With regard to medieval and cinque-cento works of art, the same fraudu- lent practices are carried on. In imitating ivory carvings, the forgers have been very industrious, and have practised with considerable success their ne- farious trade. There seems to be two distinct schools of fabrication. One, the French, situated, I believe, in the south-east of France, which has confined its attention chiefly to Gothic carvings, several of which I have seen for sale in London. The other school is German, probably not far from the Rhine, and its productions are marked by considerable erudition; it generally imitates Roman or Romanesque carvings. " Enamels have been also extensively copied; and I may here remark that specimens, imitating nearly all the different varieties of enamel work, were to be met with in the Manchester Exhibition. The early German and Limoges enamels have been very skilfully imitated, and a very competent judge may be deceived by the practice of restoring, by filling up with enamel, specimens from which the vitreous matter has been decayed or removed by violence. The skill with which the later Limoges enamels have been copied is shown by a trial which has recently taken place in France : according to tbe statement published in the papers, M. Boissel de Monville, a distinguished collector and a good judge of articles of virtu, and who purchases such things to a large extent for the sons of Baron Rothschild, had bought for those gentlemen various specimens of Limoges enamels, such as cups, vases, and saltcellars, from one Chalvet, a bookseller, who had taken him to Aries and various other places to see these pretended antiques. It appears that a man named Pierat was the actual fabri- cator, and had employed Chalvet as his agent. The deception seems to have been very cleverly carried out. The tribunal came to the satisfactory result of condemning Pierat to fifteen months' imprisonment and 1000 francs fine. Italian Majolica has likewise found its imitators — not merely its legitimate imitators, like Minton and the Imperial manufactory at Sevres, but also fraudulent copiers, who seek to give all the imperfections of the old ware, and imitate marks in order to deceive collectors. Some of this ware is made at the manufactory at Doccia, near Florence, where probably was produced the specimen I now exhibit — a plate with a clever sketch of a Satyr's head. " Similar frauds are daily carried on in porcelain. Much of the fine old blue and white oriental China, which used to adorn our grandmothers' corner cup- boards, has been coloured and gilded, to give it a more gay appearance, and the repainting of Dresden and Sevres is very extensively carried on. With regard to Dresden porcelain, it is useful to remember that when the specimens are sent out unpainted a grooved and indelible cut is made at the manufactory across the blue swords, with which the china is marked, so that, in the case of all coloured specimens, the existence of the cut shows that the decoration has been M 186 Duchy of Lancaster. Survey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. put on elsewhere. Sevres is most cleverly imitated, and fraudulently imitated, at some of the English porcelain works, even to copying all the old marks ; and I have been told that some of it is exported to the continent in order to return here as foreign porcelain. "The forgeries of coins are equally numerous and extensive. The best imitations of Greek Coins seem to be made in the Greek Islands and in India. The latter are generally cast, but the former are struck from false dies. Becker, a German forger, produced an immense number of false coins, ranging over the whole extent of numismatics ; a valuable set of impressions from his dies is preserved in the British Museum, and has served to convince many a collector of the falseness of some of his specimens. The ' best forgeries of English coins were made by Emery : a man named Singleton is also said to have been simi- larly employed. " In fact there is scarcely an object in the range of ancient or medieval art to which the attention of the forger has not been given, seeking his ill-gotten gains at the expense of the hapless collector, and tending to depreciate the value even of the genuine remains of the past by his dishonest industry." Jtttjjg erf Uwtcastec* $mU% of its |patwra m CO. WILTS, TAKEN 33 Eliz. (a.d. 1591.) HE following documents have been obtained by C. E. Long, Esq., from the Duchy of Lancaster Office : and are ex- tracted from the " Second Book of Surveys xxxiii. Eliz. Northamp- ton and Wilts." They relate to the Manors of 1. North Standen (near Hungerford.) 2. Albourne. 3. Hannington (near High- worth.) 4. Upavon. 5. Easterton Gernon (in the parish of East or Market Lavington.) 6. Manningford Bohun. 7. Ever- ley. 8. Netheravon. 9. Berwick St. James. 10. Poole. 11. Oaksey. 12. Ashley (near Tetbury.) 13. Bradon Forest. It is to be remembered that the " Freeholders," &c, mentioned in the Survey do not necessarily imply all the freeholders in the several parishes : but merely those connected with the Duchy of Lancaster property in each parish. The No. of Acres, and the Rent, also apply only to the Duchy estates. Besides those named in this Survey there were in the county of Wilts other manors, or parcels of estates, that in earlier times are found connected with the Duchy ; having formed part of the in- heritance either of the Bohuns, Earls of Hereford, or of the Earls of Lancaster : as at Amesbury, Alton Berncrs, Oollingbourne Ducis, Duchy of Lancaster. Surrey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. 187 Chesingbury de la Folie, Chitterne, Crofton, Chirton, Luckington, Sheepridge, Shrewton, Trowbridge, Wilsford, Winterbourne Earl's, and Yatton Keynell, (See Nom. Yillarum and "Hundred Rolls." Among the Printed Public Records also are the Duchy Charters from Hen. IV. to Edw. IV., and the Inq. p.m. from 1. Hen. V. to 16. Chas. I. In Manuscript, are the Patents of Officers from 1. Hen. VIII. in the Bodleian Library; and a catalogue of Charters in the Ashmol. Libr., Oxford. The Fee farm Rent Rolls (temp. Commonwealth) in the Augmentations Office : and Collections by the 3 Holmeses, in British Museum: a Rental for Wilts 1636, 1640, and Estates not granted in Fee, in Univ. Lib. Cambridge. 1. — North Standen {alias Standen Chaworth). 6 Aug. 1591. " The manor of Standen Northe. (fol. 18.) " ofVeTald? " Tliat it} beginneth and as they thinck moost fitt on mannor. northe parte of the saide mannor at a yeatt there called Marshe yeatt, from thence eastwarde alonge by the brooke there to Fremans Marshe to a hedge there wch devideth this mannor and the mannor of Hungerforde, and soe ffollowinge the saide hedge southwarde to thende therof compassinge in Claye meade ; there hence south-westwarde to a hedge of Thorns Goddardes gent., wch devideth this mannor and the mannor of South Standen, and soe contynuinge the saide hedge south-westwarde to Southflelde, com- passinge in the same fielde with a closse in the south-west cornr therof, therehence leading north warde by the hedge there to Littell Bedwynn yeate, from thence eastwarde as the waie leadeth to the comon downe, retorninge to the hedge on the north pte therof, folio win ge the same hedge eastwarde to Marshe yeat aforesaide, where it beganne. Within w°h circuitte and boundarie all waieffes, straies, &c, and all other thinges incident to a royaltie doe belonge unto her Matie &c. "Woodes there, (fol. 19.) "There are within the saide mannor v seurall woodes and cop- pices apptayninge to her Matie viz., Highe woode cont. xxv acres, Frithe woode cont. x acres, Comesanger woode cont. iij acres, Trim- lane woode cont. x acres, and Littell woode cont. v acres. m 2 188 Duchy of Lancaster. Survey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. " withoifSfe " Alsoe there apptayneth unto this mannor iij seuerall mannor. ian(jes lyinge w^in the mannor of Hungerforde and in the west fielde therof by Lanchierd, cont. by estimacon vj acres. ' ^thSuuSr "And alsoe two acres of meadowe in Woodmarshe mannor. mea(Jowe within the mannor of East Garton. One other meadowe benorthe the water leadinge to Fremans marshe cont. vj acres. One other meadowe bewest the waie that leadeth from Hungerforde to Mr. Thomas Goddardes called Brownes meadowe, cont. iiij acres. All wch doe belonge unto this mannor and are pcell of the same. " The scituacon of the said mannor. (fol. 19a.) "Beinge neare two miles southwest from Hungerforde, the soile whereof somewhat barren for the moost pte, beinge heretofore rea- sonablie well wooded with a small river or brooke on the — part thereof." Edward Hungerford held the manor. Acres 608. Rent £13 18s. 4d. Copyholders, Richard Blisse, Thomas Checken, Robert Arnold and Edmund Hungerford, Walter Burtin and William his son. 2. — Albourne. The Survey of the Manor of uAldeborne,' was taken 10 Aug., 33 Elizabeth, by John Worth, deputy to Sir John Poyntz, kt., General Surveyor of the Duchy in the South parts ; on the oaths of a Jury of the Court of Survey, viz. Robert Scorie, Richard Nutte, John Brighte, Thomas Bacon, &c, who being examined, saie ; " That they thinck the same moost begynneth in the southeast pte of the saide mannor, at a pcell of ground called Ducke lane, from thence to a waste plott of grounde at the north end of Lordes meadowe, compassinge the same plott, and soe ouer thawrte the waie unto Lordes meade, followinge the east hedge therof to the south fielde, and thence south east to the brooke to the nether pte therof, wch deuideth this mannor and the mannor of Ramisburie, and soe followinge the saide brooke to the lower end of the Gallie close, from wch close south westwarde to Milleredge Coppice-hedge, therehence out thawrte Louers lane to Letimer coppice hedge, and soe continuynge the same hedge westwarde to Prestlande, and soe Duchy of Lancaster. Survey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. 189 forth as the same hedge leadeth to Poles closse, and from thence leadinge as the same hedge lyeth to Saundredge yeatt, from thence alonge by Mushes hedge to Mushes land end, therehence to White Shurde, and soe thence alonge the ditche to Yeldons hedge corner, wherehence leadinge north warde alonge the same hedge to Mores lane, and from thence alonge the ditche or waie that leadeth to Motelie croft, followinge the same waie to Snapp common, and there- hence continuynge the said waie or ditch to High Strate waie, from thence to Badburie mere, wch devideth this mannor Badburie and Liddinton, from the said mere eastwarde along the ditch to Shuger waie, therehence to the mere stone on the top of Digehill, divid- inge this mannor Wambrough and Liddenton, from wch mere stone alonge a ditche then to Bordes plott, compassinge in the same plott, from thence east warde to Rickatts crosse, therehence along by east lease hedge to Whitt pitts, thence by a linche and waie that leadeth to Sr Williams Crosse, and from the said Crosse alonge the mere wch devideth this mannor and Beadon to Red Deane, from thence alonge by the same mere to Crockbrigh, therehence follow- inge the same mere to Forde lane, and from thence to Duck lane aforesd where in began ; within wch circuit and bondarie all waieffes, straies, ffellons, goods, &c, and all other things incident to a roy- altie belonge vnto her Matie. "And thus mitch for the circuit and bondarie of the said mannor." 3. — Hannington. (13 Aug. 1591.) " The manor Hannington als Hammingdon. (fol. 31a.) "That the boundarie of the saide mannor verie aptlie begynneth on the north pte therof at a Bridge called Thomes Bridge, at a doble tressell there; from thence along the river there eastwarde called Thames, wch devideth this mannor and Kempfforde untill ye com to a brooke called Bidebrooke, w°h devideth this mannor and Inglesham, and soe followinge the saide brooke to Westropp field, therehence contynuinge the same brooke southwarde to Gros- pell Corner deviding this mannor and Staunton, from w°h corner along by the quicksett hedge called Berreton hedge, southwest- warde to thend therof, to a mere there, followinge the same mere 190 Duchy of Lancaster. Survey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. to thend therof, thence retorninge northwestwarde by the Mere stones there to a quicksett hedge of Walter Becketts, followinge the same hedge north warde to the river of Thames, and soe follow- inge the said river eastwarde to thaforesaid bridge where it first beganne. Within wch circuit and boundarie all waieffes, straies, fellons, goodes, &c, and all other thinges incident to a Royaltie doe belong unto her Matie " wSoSe "Without wch saide boundarie there apptayneth un- bondane. ^Q mannor one hamm 0f meadowe cont. iij acres and halffe lying bewest the saide boundarie, being on the north pte invironed w*h the olde Thames, and on the west alsoe with a pcell of the same river, now in the occupacon and tenure of one John Jenkins, tennte therof unto her Matie. There lyeth alsoe in the castell field of Eaton iijor acres of arr. land and leise in iijor seve- rall rudges, and one acre in Sentham meadowe, wch alsoe belongeth unto this mannor, now in the tenure of John Symons a copie holder of the said mannor. " The scituacon of the said mannor. (fol. 37.) "It scituatethe from Highworthe west, near one mile distant the villadge wherof standeth on a hill, on the east pte wherof is verie good pasture grounde neare adioynige unto the river Thames, with good meadowes to the same apptayninge, the arrable lande whereof is somewhat fertile, verie apte for corne and grain." No. of Acres 1755J. Rent £65 2s. ljd. Freeholders, John Brinde, Humphrey Gunter, William Parker, Robert Saverie. Copyholders. John Symonds and Henrie his son; William Yorke, Robert, William, and Humphrey Yorke; Thos. Boughton; Rob. and Will, his sons; Richard Coxe and Giles Coxe; Wm. Werton: Walter and Wm., his sons. Also the names of Willier, Sheperd, Batson, Plomer, Pennell, Sherman, Jenkins, &C.1 4. — Upavon. " The mannor of Uphaven. (fol. 36a.) "Tbatt the bondarie of the saide mannor begynneth, and as they 1 The boundaries of Hannington above given, are stated (1859) to be very cor- rect. The "one acre in Sentham" is probably in Stanton Fitz warren. At the "double tressells" there is now a stone bridge across the Thames. The "17o5| acres" form only part of the much larger estate now belonging to the Freke family. Copyholders have disappeared. Duchy of Lancaster. Survey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. 191 think moost fitt on the east pte therof at a bridge, knowne by the name of Carbridge, from thence following the riuer there eastwarde to Prince Crosse, there thence southeastwarde by the landes w°h devide this mannor and Manningforde, to the middell Borrowe, deviding this mannor and the mannor of Everleigh, from thence southwarde leadinge to the Balle wch devideth this mannor Chez- enburie and the said mannor of Everleigh, therehence westwarde to thend of Hare pitt, and thence downe the riuer to Shefforde, and soe over thwarte the water there to Neaton meade, from thence to Waterdeane, deviding this mannor and West Chezenburie, there- hence westwarde to a Borrowe, wch devideth this mannor and En- forde, thence northwestwarde to Honnie downe Balle, from thence eastwarde to old Ditch, wch devideth this mannor and Russalle, and soe thence to Flower ditch, therehence to Brodewaie wch lead- eth to Cossum Bridge, and from thence following the saide riuer to Carbridge aforesaide, where it beganne. "Royaitie. " Within wch circuit and Bondarie all waieffes, straies, fellons, goods, &c, and all other thinges incident to a Royaltie doe belonge unto her Matie. "And thus mitch for the circuit and bondaries of the said mannor. "The scituacon of the said mannor. (fol. 44.) " W°h standeth southwest from Marellborrowe, vj miles distante, and from the Vies vij miles, the village wherof standeth somewhat lowe, wlh a verie proper riuer runninge on the south pte adioyninge to the same, the soile wherof yealding reasonable storr of fishe, is reasonable fertile and apte for corne, &c, with good meadowes and pasture groundes to the same apptayninge." Sir Walter Hungerford kt. held the manor. No acreage given. Eent £70 18s. Od. Freeholders. Henry Sadleir, Esq., William Thornehill, Esq., Nicholas Bacon, gent., Thomas Bushell, Robert Hurle, George Pike, Edmund Bayliffe. Leaseholder. Roger Orme. 5. — Easterton Gternon1 (in East or Market Lavington.) "The manor of Easterton Garnham. (fol. 44a.) "Thatt the bondarie of the said mannor begynnneth and as they 1 So called from a Family. "Roger Gernon held 1 knight's fee in Lavington 192 Duchy of Lancaster. Survey of its Manors, a.d. 1591. think moost fitt on the north pte therof at a meadowe called the Kinges Croftes, from thence eastwarde by Flowers hedge to New- mans Corner, therehence southwarde as the mere leadeth, deviding this mannor and Eastcott to Foote burrowe, and thence contynuing the same mere southwarde to Easterton Coomes, and soe by the eastermost pte of the same Coomes to Ellborrowe, being the uttmoost pte on the south : therehence westwarde followinge the Balles and markes wch devide this mannor and Fydington to Green Cliffe, and soe thence north warde by the mere stones to Redd land, wherehence to the wester pte of Courte closse, from thence northwarde as the hedges leade to the west end of Easterton sande, and soe thence followinge the hedges to the wester side of Twentie Acres, and therehence contynuing the hedges northwarde to the south pte of Potterne parke, and from thence followinge the hedges eastwarde unto Kinges Croftes aforesaide, where it beganne. "Royaitie. "Within which circuit and bondarie all waieffes, straies, fellons, goodes, &c, and all other thinges incident to a royaitie doe belonge unto her Matie." Walter Fisher held the manor. Acres 447. Rents £10 10s. 8d. Freeholders. Robert Bisshopp, Christian Saintsbury, Thomas Kill, William Kill. "There is within the saide mannor one woode called "Kinges Stedies," cont. 3 acres, meanlie sett with oke trees or other timber trees." 6. — Manningfokd Bohun. " The manor of Manning for de Boundes. (fol. 48a.) ,i Wdeot. By C. E. Long, Esq. 211 iv.) of the previous Article, addressed to Anthony Hinton; the other to his cousin Reginald Scriven. *"Yor Ires make menoon that you understand I beare you displeasure, and that yt hath appeared by sundry attempts of myne of late, groundinge my quarell upon words of Cawley, who doth utterly deny yt, verily I have heard by a longe tyme you have not byn well, but so farr to be distempered, as by yor Ires appeareth, I knew not That you were the Autho1' of all ill attempts and secreat workings, of all wch I knewe nothinge before the receipt of those Ires. Yf you had expressed those attempts, the matter would appeare the playner, for sure I am you have uttered as foolishe as that, I have heard saye that you have not byn well a good while, but so farr distempered I knew not. That you had byn run into any suche distemperature and unseasonablenes I would not have thought yt, had not yor owne Ires expressed yt, That maketh me also to knowe that Cawleys advtisements were not altogether wthout matter and truthe, that shewed me that you were one that envied me, and other watch- inge to do harme, when occasion should rise, That you were the setter on of the tennts of Chilton in all their ptended villanies. This can foure psons witnes, honester men then he. But in the latter pte of yor Ires, very excellent in yt self, you say very magnifically that you did little looke for suche hard dealinge at my hands, you say magnifically that, I pray where dwell you or what pa- rents came you from, that you take yt, or howe cometh yt about, that I have so muche forgotten my self, there is nothinge but hard dealinge in yor mouthe. Yf you have lent me money at any tyme, as yo1' Ires mencon, wch hath not byn past wise, once xxu and another xu. Another tyme I remember you would, and in faith I never sent to you for yt, nor neded yt not, wch lone of yors was all- wayes upon good pawne of plate, and not above three monethes or sixe. But nowe you have upbrayed me wth yt, I trust you have yor peniworthes and are satisfied, yf not send me somuch plate, and I will lend you somuche money as ever you lent me and twise as longe. And then are you double aunswered upon that point, that you say I brake day wth you I cannot forbeare you, for playnly and truly you do lye in yt, And lyinge in a miser is a miserable thinge. But yt is allways proper to base condicon. And further, in yo1 Ires you say that yf you have honestly and faithfully travelled in my causes, you are ill repayed wth hard dealinge. What cause of myne that you should be so traveled in, and so mightie in remembraunce wth you I cannott gesse. But sure I am that I have in many things borne wth you, And suffred harmes and losses by you; And used you allwayes better then belonged to yor condicon. But I will mend yt and pcead in truth as T think good, gevinge you wth all to understand that I am not he that is in error or hath not what to followe. And this for aunswere to yor Ires written for some devise. "He that for all yor secreat envy, "and private malice must lyve by you." "Cosin, my helth not so well servinge me as it hath downe, whereby I cannot visyte frinds nor follow my bussynes as I have bynn accostomed to do hearto- fore, I am dryven oftner to Letters to acquitt me in the one, and to expresse • Gen. Kccord Office, Loudon. " Darcll Correspondence." Misc. 458. 212 Wild Darell of Littlecote. and serve me in thother, more then willingly I would To you my cosin and frinde, I woulde a letell complayne me of Infortunyte, my cosin the lyffe we have in this worldell is shorte, and to the happyest somwhat of Trouble, But to the afflyoted what it is of infelycitie, none but the afflycted can only therin justly speake. To ease the lyffe of man hear, thoughe nothinge cann make it justly pleasant, I fynde that frynds do wourke much therin, And f rinds ar got- ten bound and kepte by bloude or deserte, deserte I take not too for the least. Myself a man much of infortunyte, thoughe to many that ar right good neare in bloode, and som of the better sorte, and to som have also not deserved amisse. And could not have lyved too but to som have bynn right good, yeat have I not receaved that in clearenes at any tyme. of any one that myght justly bynd me, but whether destinye, chaunce, or that that is called fortune, or my devylyshe neg- lygences or and yll deservynge be the cause unto this day, as a man troubled, and therby of noe good judgement I could not deserve, But what a man un- luckye am I. I will therfore at this tyme call to memory the good things I have receved and not requitted, And after I will offer my self as one that certynely hadd ever a mynde to requitt all things to make satisfaction for the same. And so farr therin to pceade, that it serve may hereafter for indifferent frindshipp in things well compounded. And for reasonable favour in reasonable causes that maye be. My Lorde whom you serve and I love, and have done before all other, nor any was more glader, not the nearest bloude to him, of his advancement then I was. When he was solicytor he certeynly was, and I may yet seye it, my good frind, and I stonde a barren lover only for it, I receaved many bene- fits of him, I hadd many tyme counsel! and paid nothing, I hadd secreatly ad- vice of him, wch was more, I hadd many favoures as his letters and requests tendinge to my pfytt, 0 that I might not even heare sey too, that he hadd binn my good Lorde also — But so that I may not be ungrateful for things passed, And if it may be to have him my good and indifferent Lorde, I pray you move, and as you may lett fall in substaunce this. I have a mannor standinge in good sorte wth me, of the valewe of cccu by the year, in every condition not to be had. This will I convey to my Lorde and Mr Harry that hath maryed my kinswoman, and to his eyers, in suche sorte as I now have it of that valewe, if I dy wthout heyer male of my body begotten. And that this I will do, not sett it downe only in letters, but I will also enter into covenant or be bounde in statute of v mu for the doinge of it, wth this condition added to it more, that if I fortune to have eyer of my body, Then shall my Lord have one M marcs payd him or t0 his wthin three yeares after, or ells shall he or his have soe much payde after my decesse, wthin one year as from a friend. This in choyse. To this what is said and howe it is taken, I would gladly knowe, my health not being good I myght know him for my frind to my comfort, And as you ar my cosyn, so do I take to have a portion in you, and do make bold of you. So I pray you to thincke, for so shall you fynd it, That in me and myne shall alwayes be a parte for you, wth my comendations. I do also pray you that as you may, I may hear from you, at my lodging the xvijth of June 1583. " Yor Loving cosin, "and frind, W. Daeell. "To my lovinge cosin and assured frind, Mr. Reynard Scriven gevo thes." Endorsed. "To Mr Scriven geve thos." By C. E. Long, Esq. 213 It has been previously asserted that, until the publication of Rokeby, and of Aubrey's Memoir of Judge Popham, in the "Let- ters from the Bodleian/' no printed account of this Littlecote tra- gedy could be met with. Researches were made in the library of the British Museum for one or two old works of the period bearing on such subjects, such as "A Mass of Murders" printed in 1595; "London's Cry" in 1620; and "God's Revenge," in 1621, but they have not been found. Nevertheless there is in a modern compilation called "Anecdotes and Biography, selected from the Portfolio of a dis- tinguished literary character lately deceased," and collected and edited by "L. T. Rede," a story somewhat similar. My attention was drawn to it by the kindness of Mr. Hunter of the Record Office. At page 41, second edition 1799, we have a tale commencing thus. "In a county verging on London, lived within this century, &c, &c." "The counsel himself" it is stated in conclusion "is a peer with at least £10,000 per annum." It may be that Mr. Rede, or the "literary character," may have heard the Littlecote story, and endeavoured to give it greater effect by fixing it on some unnamed living parties. This story, nearly word for word, is the one re- counted in Burke's Commoners, vol. ii. p. 12, of the "Alterations and Additions." There is, however, this exception, viz. that Mr. Burke has fastened it upon "an ancient and respectable family in Wiltshire," and by so doing has virtually stamped it as the Little- cote story. But we now come to another, and a real narrative bearing a most exact similarity to our Wiltshire legend. This was lately re- marked by Mr. John Bruce, while employed in the arrangement of his Index at the State Paper Office, and obligingly made known to me. In a letter dated "Hague, May 30, 1616," from Dudley, afterwards Sir Dudley, Carleton, then our Ambassador in Holland, to his friend, Mr. John Chamberlain, and addressed to him "at Mr. Richard Chamberlain's house in Aldermanburie," the following passage occurs. " We hear" he writes "of a bloudie accident on the Archduke's side," (he means, of course, in Flanders) " where two men came masqued into a midwife's house, and carried her away, partly by force partly by persuasion, to a woman in child-bed whom she found 214 Wild Dareil of Littlecote. likewise masqued ; and after she had done her office the child was presently taken by these fellowes and cast into a fire, which was made in the chamber for that purpose, and consumed to ashes, the mother crying owt and exclayming uppon them for that crueltie, which she sayde in the midwife's hearing was the fifth time they had used in like sort upon her children. This will not quit your Mrs. Yincent, because though these men were barbarous the woman was in some sort compassionit, but I expect before long to heare your Catholique gentlewoman putt into the number of Saints as well as Garnett and his companion, whose pictures and names I saw in the Jesuit's Legend at Augusta." There is no further mention of this story in Carleton's subse- quent letters. It may readily be imagined with what buoyant ex- citement the contributor of this Article on " Wild Dareil" hurried off to refer to the "Court and Times of James the First," contain- ing Chamberlain's letters to Carleton, in the not altogether despe- rate hope of finding some allusion to the nearly precise parallel at Littlecote, then a tale only twenty-seven years old. Not defeated by again finding nothing in the printed letters, he then hastened to the Museum to test their accuracy by a reference to the original MS. It appears that Chamberlain wrote two letters, one dated June 8th, the other June 22nd, but strange to say, he never even noticed the dark tale at all. It is clear that Carleton's letter was received by him, and that his letter, dated June 8th, was in reply to it, as we find in this latter (although for some unexplained rea- son the passage is omitted in the printed copy), the acknowledge- ment, that, "Two days since I received both your letters of the 24th and 30th of last month," In the face of these recent discov- eries we dare not affirm that we have yet thoroughly sifted DarelPs history; but, as regards his crowning enormity, this Littlecote legend, my anticipation is that nothing will be discovered to bear it out, and, individually, I must be content, to remain, and peradven- ture to stand alone in my unbelief, the "sceptical archaeologist " cast aside with somewhat of compassionate disdain by my more credulous but very worthy friend and school-fellow, the author of the interesting and admirable article headed "Wiltshire" in a late number of the Quarterly Review. C. E. L. 215 A LEGEND OF SALISBURY PLAIN, 1786. i^Pj^N Friday, 16th June 1786, a sailor, by name Gervase Mat- f£ ff| c^iam' ^tended by a companion, went before James Easton Esq. the Mayor of Salisbury, for the purpose of making a voluntary declaration that he had committed a murder in Huntingdonshire about seven years previously. But his story was so confused and his conduct so strange, that the Mayor entertained doubts of his sanity ; and accordingly gave him into safe custody until an answer might be obtained from the Town-clerk of Huntingdon, with whom Mr. Turner the Salisbury Town- clerk was thereupon directed to put himself in communication. On the following Tuesday morning a letter arrived from the Town-clerk of Huntingdon, declaring tbat it was quite true that a murder had been committed near that town, at the period stated; and adding, that diligent search had been made for the perpetrator thereof at the time, but to no effect. This information, though scanty, was sufficient to create a strong suspicion against the pri- soner, who was accordingly had up the next day before a full bench of Justices, in whose presence he made the following confes- sion. "In the early part of his life he had been engaged in various employments by sea and land, particularly in the services of Cap- tain O'Kelly, and Mr. Dymock of Oxford Street, London, as a jockey. About seven years since he enlisted into a regiment then lying at Huntingdon, (the name or number he could not remember) ; that after he had been in the corps about three weeks, he was travelling upon the turnpike road, about four miles from Hunting- don in company with a drummer, about 17 years of age, the son of a sergeant in the regiment [name, Jones], when words arising about the poor lad's refusing to return and drink at a public house they had passed, Matcham knocked him down, and then, as he declares, first conceived the idea of murdering him, which, after 216 The Dead Drummer', a Legend of Salisbury Plain. some struggles on the part of the unfortunate youth, he effected by cutting his throat with a clasp-knife. He then took from his pockets about six guineas in gold, money entrusted to him by the sergeant his father; and leaving the body by the way-side, made the best of his way to London, where he got work for some time upon the craft on the Thames at Tower wharf. From that time he had been in various employments as a seaman, in France, the West Indies, and in Russia. He was last on board the Sampson man of war, lying off Plymouth, whence he and his companion John Shepherd (a native of the Soke in Winchester) were lately discharged. The unhappy man further declared that with the ex- ception of this murder, he had at no time done any injury to society ; — that until the moment of committing it, he had not the least idea thereof; — and that he had no provocation from the de- ceased, excepting that he gave him ill language. But from that fatal hour, he had, he said, been a stranger to all enjoyment of life or peace of mind, the recollection thereof perpetually haunting his imagination, and at times rendering his life a burden almost insup- portable:—that in travelling with Shepherd on Thursday the 15th inst. upon the road to Salisbury, they were overtaken near Wood- yates Inn by a thunder storm, in which he saw several strange and dismal spectres; particularly one in the appearance of a female, towards which he walked up, when it instantly sank into the earth and a large stone rose up in its place ; — that the stones rolled upon the ground before him, and often came dashing against his feet." Such were the forms in which the terrors of a guilty conscience arrayed themselves. His comrade John Shepherd saw not the spectres, but he corroborated the story so far as related to the ex- ternal deportment of the unhappy man, who, he said, was often running about like one distracted, and anon falling on his knees and imploring mercy. When more composed, he questioned him as to the reason of his extraordinary conduct, when Matcham at once acknowledged himself a murderer, and begged Shepherd to deliver him into the hands of justice at the next place they might reach, for life was hateful, and his sleepless nights crowded with visions of misery and woe. The Dead Drummer: a Legend of Salisbury Plain. 217 Both men having now been heard, the prisoner persisted in his confession, though he declined signing it; and as his manner no longer indicated anything like aberration of mind, he was com- mitted to the city-gaol in order to take his trial at the ensuing Huntingdon assizes. His companion Shepherd was at the same time bound in a recognizance to give evidence of what he had heard him confess. This affair having been re-published in the London Journals, soon attracted general attention; and on the following Thursday, 22nd June, two letters reached Salisbury, both of which are inter- esting. The first is from John, fourth Earl of Sandwich. To the Worshipful the Mayor of Salisbury. 1 ' Hertford Street. "Sir. Having thrown my eyes by accident on the enclosed article in yester- day's Morning Post, I take the earliest opportunity to inform you that a murder of a drummer within four miles of Huntingdon happened about the time men- tioned in the article, and the circumstances appear very similar to those therein described. I must most earnestly recommend it to you to detain the man, and to write to me for further particulars, with which I will take care that you shall be fully supplied. I must beg at the same time that you will let me know every thing that has appeared on the examination of the man before you, or whatever can be collected from him upon any further investigation. The drum- mer was killed and his body found at a place called Weybridge, between Bugden and Alconbury, in the great North road. I am, Sir, your obedient, humble servant, "Sandwich. "P.S. I have dated this from my house in London, intending to have put it into the post to-morrow in town; but as I think the business requires despatch, have sent it from hence by express. " Maidenhead Bridge, 21 June 1786. The other letter is from Owen Fann, Esq. the coroner of the county of Huntingdon. To the Worshipful the Mayor of Salisbury. "Sir. On reading in a newspaper yesterday, of a drummer-boy being mur- dered by a sailor, it struck me with an idea that it might be the same drummer that was murdered in Huntingdonshire, but that I think the offender's name was then different, and his being called a sailor did not confirm my first appre- hensions: but by the account I have just read in the Morning Post I think there is no doubt of the man you have committed being the real person. I was the coroner who took the inquisition on view of the body of the drummer. If I re- collect, the offender was then a late recruit in the same regiment with the drummer boy, with whom he went to the Officer, Major Reynolds, then of Did- ■ . 0 218 The Dead Drummer: a Legend of Salisbury Plain. dington, and now of St. Neots, Huntingdonshire, for subsistence and recruiting j money, to be paid to the boy's father who was the enlisting sergeant: and between I Bugden and Alconbury with Weston, in the said county, he the said boy was I found murdered by the side of the road leading to York, on a Sunday morning; | and it was thought that the offender made off towards York. The boy's throat | was cut, and a pocket-knife found a little way from the body; and, as well as j I recollect, the money was about that sum. The spot where the body was found j was about four miles from Huntingdon: I cannot here recollect the name the J; offender went by ; he might have been a sailor by the name of Matcham, and I enlisted by another name in Major Reynold's corps. I cannot in this haste of I writing recollect the time: — I think it was in August; — nor the year; but it was at a time when the Huntingdonshire Militia were encamped in Essex, be- cause the person who would have taken the inquisition instead of me was gone thither. The man was advertised and sought after very much, and a full description given of him ; and I recollect that a tooth was wanting in his mouth before, but whether upper or under I cannot say. This may be of some use till I hear further, as I think a person will be sent over, perhaps the sergeant (if living) or his wife, whoever can swear to the person of the man. I shall leave this part to-morrow and go to my own residence at Huntingdon, and will then look into the inquisition, and give you a further account, if necessary; or most probably such person as I mentioned before will be sent over on purpose. You will please to excuse any omissions and incorrect matters which you may find in this hasty epistle, from, Sir, Your most obedient, humble servant, " Owen Fann. " London, Wednesday, 21 June 1786. "P.S. If there be a tooth wanting in the fore part of his mouth, that must, with the other circumstances, be conviction enough for detainer at present. If not, he may be an innocent person disordered in his mind; and having heard of the murder or having conversed with the murderer, may have improperly told the tale as of himself." On the receipt of this letter at Salisbury, Matcham's mouth was examined, and a lost front tooth corroborated Mr. Fann's letter. He admitted likewise that he did enlist under the false name of Jarvis, to avoid discovery, having previously deserted from on board a vessel. Justice therefore was allowed to take her course. The Ingoldsby legend entitled " The Dead Drummer" founded on the foregoing narrative, differs slightly in some of its minor features : but as it would be vain to attempt to adjust the discre- f pancies of the two accounts, we may be satisfied that, in the present instance, poetic licence has not carried the scene entirely beyond the sympathetic range of the dwellers on Salisbury Plain. The Dead Drummer : a Legend of Salisbury Plain. 219 The Dead Drummer : A Legend of Salisbury Plain. By Thomas Ingoldsby, Esq.* Oh ! Salisbury Plain is bleak and bare ; At least, so I've heard many people declare, For I fairly confess I never was there. Not a shrub nor a tree, Nor a bush can you see ; No hedges, no ditches, no gates, no stiles, Much less a cottage or house for miles. It's a very sad thing to be caught in the rain When night's coming on upon Salisbury Plain. Now I'd have you to know, That a great while ago, The best part of a century, may be, or so, Across the same Plain so dull and so dreary A couple of travellers wayworn and weary Were making their way. Their profession, you'd say At a single glance did not admit of a query. The pump-handled pigtail and whiskers worn then With scarce an exception by seafaring men ; The jacket, the loose trowsers "bows'd up" together — all Guiltless of braces as those of Charles Wetherall; The pigeon-toed step and the rollicking motion Bespake them two genuine sons of the ocean ; And showed in a moment their real characters. (The accent's so placed on this word by our Jack Tars.) The one in advance was sturdy and strong, With arms uncommonly bony and long ; And his Guernsey shirt Was all pitch and dirt, Which sailors don't think inconvenient or wrong. He was very broad-breasted And very deep-chested; His sinewy frame correspond with the rest did : Except as to height, for he could not be more At the most, you would say, than some five feet four, And if measured, perhaps had been found a thought lower. The other, his friend and companion, was taller By five or six inches, at least, than the smaller. From his air and his mien It was plain to be seen * The late Rev. Richard Barham. o 2 The Dead Drummer: a Legend of Salisbury Plain. That he was, or had been, A something between The regular "Jack" and the " Jolly Marine." For though he would give an occasional hitch, Sailor-like, to his slops, there was something, the which On the whole savoured more of the pipe-clay than pitch. Such were now the two men who appeared on the Hill, Harry Waters the tall one, the short "Spanking Bill." To be caught in the rain, I repeat it again, Is extremely unpleasant on Salisbury Plain. And when with a good soaking shower there are blended Blue lightnings and thunder, the matter's not mended. Such was the case In this wild dreary place On the day that I'm speaking of now, when the brace Of travellers alluded to quickened their pace, Till a good steady walk became more like a race, To get quit of the tempest which held them in chase. Louder and louder Than mortal gunpowder The heavenly artillery kept crashing and roaring, The lightning kept flashing, the rain too kept pouring, While they, helter-skelter In vain sought for shelter From what I've heard termed "a regular pelter." But never a screen Could be any where seen, Or an object, except that on one of the rises An old way-post showed Where the Lavington road Branched off to the left from the one to Devizes. « And thither the footsteps of Waters seemed tending, Though a doubt might exist of the course he was bending, To a landsman at least, who wherever he goes, Is content for the most part to follow his nose; While Harry kept backing And "filling" and "tacking;" Two nautical terms which, I'll wager a guinea, are Meant to imply What you, Reader, and I Would call going zigzag, and not rectilinear. The Dead Drummer : a Legend of Salisbury Plain. 221 To ''return to our muttons. "f This mode of progression At length, upon Spanking Bill made some impression. "Hullo, messmate, what cheer ? How queer you do steer" Cried Bill, whose short legs kept him still in the rear. "Why, what's in the wind, Bo? — What is it you fear ?" For he saw in a moment that something was frightning His shipmate much more than the thunder and lightning. "Fear ?" stammered out Waters, "Why, Him, — don't you see What faces that Drummer-boy's making at me ? • How he dodges me so Wherever I go — What is it he wants with me, Bill, — do you know ?" "What Drummer-boy, Harry?" cries Bill in surprise, With a brief exclamation that ended in "eyes." " What Drummer-boy, Waters ? — the coast is all clear ; We have'nt got never no Drummer-boy here." "Why there ! don't you see How he's following me ? Now this way, now that way, and won't let me be. Keep him off, Bill, — look here — Don't let him come near; Only see how the blood-drops his features besmear ! What, the dead come to life again, — Bless me, — Oh dear." Bill remarked in reply, "This is all very queer, What, — a Drummer-boy, bloody too, eh! well, I never! I can't see no Drummer-boy here whatsumdever." "Not see him — why there, — look he's close by the post. Hark, hark, how he drums at me now; — he's a ghost. Oh mercy" roared Waters, "do keep him off, Bill: And Andrew, forgive !— I'll confess all, I will ; I'll make a clean breast; And as for the rest, You may do with me just what the lawyers think best. But haunt me not thus — let these visitings cease, And, your vengeance accomplished, Boy, leave me in peace." Harry paused for a moment, — then turning to Bill, Who stood with his mouth open, steady and still, Began spinning what nauticals term "a tough yarn," Viz. his tale of what Bill called "this precious consarn." [The " tough yarn" was a confession which Harry thereupon made to his comrade, to the effect, that his name was not Waters t Eevenons a nos moutons. Fr. 222 The Dead Drummer : a Legend of Salisbury Plain. but Gervase Matcham, — that lie had been a soldier, and reached the rank of sergeant, — that he and a drummer-boy named Andrew Brand had been selected by his Colonel to carry some regimental pay to a detachment at a distance, — that on passing over Salisbury Plain, the Tempter urged him to secure the treasure to himself and to take the' life of Andrew, — that after a conversation with the Fiend, he accomplished "the deed that damned him," and sought to hide his shame by going to sea ; but after seeking death in flood and fight for fifteen years, inexorable Fate had* dragged him back to the very scene of his villainy. His confession finished, — his companion says] "Hark ye, Waters, or Matcham, whichever' s your purser-name, T'other, your own is, I'm sartain, the worser name : Twelve years have we lived on like brother and brother, Now — Your course lies one way, and mine lies another." "No "William, it may not be so, Blood calls for blood, T'is Heaven's decree. And thou with me this night must go And give me to the gallows-tree. Ha ! see, he smiles — he points the way — On, William, on ! — no more delay." Now Bill, as the story as told to me, goes, And who, as his last speech sufficiently shows, Was "a regular trump," — did not like to "turn Nose," But then came a thunder clap louder than any Of those that preceded, though they were so many. And hark ! as its rumblings subside in a hum, What sound mingles too ? — by the Hokey — a Drum ! I remember I once heard my grandfather say, That some sixty years since he was going that way, When they showed him the spot Where the gibbet — was not — On which Matcham' s corse had been hung up to rot. It had fall'n down ; but how long before, he'd forgot. And they told him, I think, at the Bear in Devizes, Some town where the Sessions are held, or the 'Sizes, That Matcham confessed, And made a clean breast To the Mayor; but that after he'd had a night's rest, And the storm had subsided, he pooh-pooh'd his friend, Swearing all was a lie from beginning to end ; The Dead Drummer: a Legend of Salisbury Plain. 223 Said he'd only been drunk — That his spirits had sunk At the thunder, — the storm put him into a funk : That in fact he had nothing at all on his conscience, And found out, in short, he'd been talking great nonsense. But one Mr. Jones Comes forth and depones, That fifteen years ago he had heard certain groans On his way to Stonehenge to examine the stones, Described in a work of the late Sir John Soane's ; That he'd followed the moans, And, led by their tones, Found a raven a-picking a Drummer-boy's bones. Then the Colonel wrote word From the King's Forty-third That the story was certainly true which they'd heard : For that one of their Drummers and one Sergeant Matcham, Had " brushed with the dibs " and they never could catch'em. So Justice was sure, though a long time she lagged, And the Sergeant in spite of his "gammon," got scragged ; And the people averred That an ugly black bird The same raven, t'was hinted, of whom we have heard, Though the story, I own, appears rather absurd, "Was seen (Gervase Matcham not being interred) To roost all that night on the murderer's gibbet An odd thing, if so,- — and, it may be, a fib. — It However's a thing Nature's laws don't prohibit. Next morning they add, that " black gentleman " flies out Having picked Match am' s nose off, and gobbled his eyes out. J. w. 224 By the Rev. J. L. Ross, M.A., Oxon. Vicar of Avebury and Monkton. jN a paper which. I drew up some time since for the Archaeo- ) logical Journal, I endeavoured to shew that the Druidical remains in this county were the work of the Phoenicians, who not merely had a very early commercial intercourse with Cornwall, but subsequently colonized to a considerable extent the South "Western district of England, and to a still greater extent Ireland. It has been observed however by Pinkerton and others, among whom we may mention Barry in his history of the Orkneys, that both in Orkney and other parts of Scotland, stones, pillars, circles, and tumuli are to be found, similar to those which are met with in some of the Southern districts of England, and particularly Stonehenge ; and they would hence infer that neither Stonehenge nor what are usually considered as Druidical circles and stones were erected by the Druids or Phoenicians, but were the works either of a later age, or were the memorials of a Saxon or Scandinavian race. In this view there would appear to be the same jealousy of Stukeley enter- tained by these writers and those who adopt their opinions, which has, I am afraid, not been confined to their country or age. Now without assuming Stukeley to be an infallible guide on subjects of antiquarian interest, or subscribing in all particulars either to his views or deductions, many of which are confessedly fanciful and have received little credit, the attention that has been recently paid to such antiquarian remains in this county by several writers, would seem to indicate that the ground plan of the two great temples or circles of Abury and Stonehenge as laid down by Stukeley, namely, in the latter circle, of a mere round open build- ing with approaches, and in the former, of a Dracontic erection, has resulted in a decided disposition in most quarters to receive his statement of the appearance of these circles in his time, as well as their probablo design. That Aubrey the first discoverer of Abury By the Bev. J. L. Boss. 225 should not have observed many things afterwards discovered by Stukeley is not surprising, as he made a very cursory survey of Abury at least, and formed very naturally an imperfect conception of the original shape of the building : nor is it at all matter of sur- prise that he should not have had made any mention of the avenue to Beckhampton, as that important feature of Stukeley's ground- plan, namely, the serpent's tail, was then much less perceptible than the other avenue or the head of the serpent terminating on Over- ton Hill, owing to its passing through fields and meadows employed as arable and pasture land, through which no public road had been formed, and from which the stones of this approach or avenue had been necessarily removed. If Aubrey had leisure or inclination to make the enquiries which his successor Stukeley afterwards did during a series of visits extending over several years, he would then have heard something of the doings of certain un-antiquarian farmers, as Fowler and Green, who were even still more successful than the Herostratus Tom Robinson in destroying almost every vestige of the Beckhampton avenue at least, with the exception of two of the largest stones still existing, nearly midway between the circles and Beckhampton, where it was supposed, upon good grounds, to terminate. Any one who has remarked the cottages and walls of premises in the upper village of Abury, must have presumed that there had been either some considerable quarry in the neighbourhood from which these stones were then taken, (for the buildings elsewhere are usually of brick), or must incline to Stukeley's opinion that they were formed from a large assortment or collection of stones, similar in all respects to those used in the circles and Kennet avenue, namely, the Grey- Wethers, most pro- bably conveyed from the valley of stones on the road between Abury and Marlborough. If moreover it can be proved, as is ad- mitted, that the Kennet avenue from its gyrations and other pecu- liar features, is the head of the serpent emerging from the circles at Abury, there is then a very high degree of probability, amounting I conceive to moral certainty, that the other avenue, partly observed and partly traced by Stukeley, was the serpent's tail, or very unnecessarily and unreasonably the ancient and wise 226 The Picts. • ] builders of these mysterious erections must have allowed themselves in a "lusus naturce," or an animal with a body and head but with- out a tail. They had not even the apology of the eccentric Lord Monboddo who entertained a notion that mankind were originally created with tails, but in course of ages, from their sedentary habits like the Simia or monkey race, wore them away by sitting upon them. I proceed now however to enquire how far Pinkerton and Barry are correct in depriving the Phoenicians and their sacred and literary order the Druids, of their claim to be the builders of the circles so frequently found in Britain, or rather I should say to enquire who were the authors of many similar structures elsewhere, who are confessedly not of the Phoenician or Druidical race. From the laborious enquiries of Sir William Betham, the Ulster King of Arms in Ireland, and many other modern writers, it has been proved by the testimony of very ancient historians, as Gildas and Nennius, &c, that the original inhabitants of the Central and Northern divisions of Britain were Picts. "This" says Dr. Mc Pherson, minister of Slate in Skye, (Dissertation on Ancient Cale- donians, section xii.) "was an established tradition a thousand years ago, that the Picts were the original inhabitants of the Northern di- vision of Britain." Bede says, in his Ecclesiastical History, " that they came to Caledonia from Scythia, the European part of which, according to Pliny, comprehends Germany." The authority of this venerable writer was never questioned on this head ; and a be- lief has ever since obtained that the Picts were a different race from the Gauls who possessed the Southern parts of Britain. By the Phoenicians on their arrival in Cornwall, these aborigines were cal- led in their language Britons, or painted people, which is more properly the derivation of the word than that of Tin, which is commonly assigned to it. When the Romans subsequently inva- ded Britain, they seem to have merely changed or translated this term into Picti, a Latin word expressing the same meaning, namely, the painted people. These two names however were not the generic designation of the aboriginal inhabitants of this coun- try, who were it has been satisfactorily shewn, either Cymbri By the Rev. J. L. Ross. 227 or Cimbri, from a German or Teutonic word signifying a warrior, or warlike. The ancient writers have universally described the Cimbri as a tall, gigantic, and brave people, and Caesar describes them as being originally equally warlike and successful as the Gauls, or the principal body of the Celtic or Phoenician race. Whitaker considers that the "names Celtae, Galatae, and Gauls belong to the Gael/' or the Phoenician race; but as the languages of the Cymry and Gael are perfectly distinct, they must be independent nations ; just on the same principle that the Tyrrheni and Pelasgi were distinct people. His language is as follows : — If natural affinity produces similarity of language, the reverse produces diver- sity of language ; on this principle I am persuaded that the Pelasgi are a different people from the "Tyrrhenians." From this and circumstances of a kindred nature, Whitaker was convinced that the Cymri, and Gauls or Celtae are distinct nations, and had arrived by different routes into Britain ; " the Cimbri," he says, " from the north, and the Gael by a route to the south of Mount Hcemus and the Alps." The Ecclesiastical historian, Bede, is also of opinion that the Cimbri came to Caledonia or Scotland from Scythia in Germany. Sir W. Betham has given several pedigrees of the Celtic and Gothic nations, and among others, one in relation to the Cimbri, which deserves, he conceives, consideration. Tlie Cimbri were a nation from the North of Europe, who inhabited Jutland, or the Cimbric Chersonesus. There were two great divisions of this race, the Caledonian Cymbri who peopled the British Islands and were afterwards called Picts, and the Cymbri who invaded Gaul, and were destroyed by the Roman General Marius, B.C. 103. " Plutarch (says Mr. Humphrey Lloyd1) in his history of Marius affirmeth, that the Cymbri departed out of a far country, and that it was not known whence they came, nor whither they went, but, like clouds, they issued into France and Italy with the Almayns. Whereupon the Homans supposed that they had been Germans, because they had big bodies, with sharp and horrible eyes. So much he. Since then he hath left their origin unknown ; and 1 Breviary of Great Britain. 228 The Picts. our Chronicles do testify, how that the Britaynes had always great familiarity with the Northern Germans, as it is like enough that the British Cymbri passed over into Denmark, whereby it was called Cymbrica, and so joining with the Almayns, made war upon the Romans, &c, &c. And to confirm all this, I read late, in a most ancient fragment in the British tongue, how that, long since, there departed a very great army of Britayns into Denmark, which after many valiant wars, in most parts of the worlde, never returned again. " This hypothesis would seem to indicate that Britain had been peopled at some very early period by a race which had at the same time colonized Germany, from which great seat of the Teu- tones, and particularly Denmark and Jutland, emigrations took place to the Northern and Southern divisions of Britain, long previous to the invasion of the Saxons under Hengist and Horsa.1 From the former or Caledonian Cymbri, in whom we are at pre- sent more particularly interested, were derived the Welsh, the Cornish, and the Armoricans or Britons, a race still inhabiting Brittany and speaking a language of a nature kindred to the Welsh. These Cymbri having been compelled to forsake Jutland or the Cymbric Chersonesus, owing to an irruption of the sea which devastated their country, seem to have divided into two great bodies, the one of which attempted a settlement in Italy, from which they were driven by Marius, and afterwards obtained some footing in Gaul, while the other division landed in Britain, then or more probably at a much earlier period, and became the principal opposers of Caesar after he had triumphed over the Belgae or Silures, an Iberian race, who inhabited the Southern Maritime districts, These Silures or Belgae are usually considered to be a Celtic race, closely connected with the Gauls or Celts on the oppo- site coast, and may in all probability have been a detachment of Phoenicians, who at an early period discovered and subsequently colonized the more Southern districts of Britain. They were of a dark olive complexion and curly hair, the reverse of the Cimbri or Teutonic races, who were of a lighter hue and had fairer hair. Tacitus' remarks are as follows : — 1 Sir W. Betham, p. 387. By the Rev. J. L. Boss. 229 "At the time of the Roman invasion there were three distinct nations inhabiting Britain, the Gael, the Cymbri, and the Belgse. The former were those who inhabited South Britain, including Wales, and fought with Ccesar; the second were the Caledonians found in North Britain by Agricola (and probably the interior of South Britain) ; " and the third were the people from Belgic Gaul, who had formed trifling settlements on the coasts, but were not either numerous or powerful. ... I am inclined to think that the ancient Caledonians (the Cymbri or second nation men- tioned) were the first inhabitants of all the British Islands, including Ireland." . . Tacitus is the first who gives any succinct account of these Northern Britons in his life of Agricola. " Whether " he " says the first inhabitants of Britain were natives of the Island, or adventitious settlers, is a question lost in the mists of antiquity. The Britons, like other barbarous nations, have no monuments of their history. They differ in habit and make of their bodies, and have various inferences concerning their origin. The ruddy hair and lusty limbs of the Caledonians indicate a German extraction. That the Silures (or Belgse) were at first a colony of Iberians is concluded, not without probability, from the olive tinc- ture of their skin, the natural curl of their hair, and the situation of the country so convenient to the coast of Spain. On the side opposite to Gaul, the inhabitants resemble their neighbours on the continent ; but whether that resemblance is the effect of one com- mon origin, or of the climate in contiguous nations, operating on the make and temperament of the human body, is a point not easy to determine. All circumstances considered, it is rather probable, that a colony from Gaul took possession of a country so inviting by its proximity. You will find in both nations the same religious rites, and the same superstitions. The two languages differ but little. In provoking danger they discover the same ferocity, and in the encounter the same timidity. The Britons, however, not yet en- feebled by long peace, are possessed of superior courage." There is a distinction drawn between the Caledonians (or Cym- bri) and the Southern Britons (or Celtic race). The former are said to indicate a German origin by fair complexion, sandy hair, 230 The Picts. large and robust form of limbs, while the Silures, who inhabited ft what is now called South Wales (and formerly the maritime coasts ) ft of South Britain), are declared to be of a Spanish race, from their ft swarthy dark skins and curly hair. a] "After Tacitus " says Betham, "we hear little of the Caledonians ! \u by that name, for, it may almost be said, that they disappear from H history. At the period of the decline of the Roman power in 0; Britain, the country which they inhabited was in the possession of Id a people called the Picts, because they painted their bodies, the very reason their ancestors received the name of Britons from the Phceni- 8ej cians. It would appear, therefore, that the Phoenician Gaelic inva- or ders exterminated or expelled the Cymbric Britons from the South i of Britain and Ireland; those who escaped were driven to the north, \ ja where they were found by Agricola many centuries afterwards, j \ and received a name from the Romans, exactly indicative of that [ they obtained on their first discovery by the Phoenicians. "A p These BelgaB are supposed in time to have become amalgamated with the Romans, and to have acquired their customs and language. ! \ Gildas, when he describes Cuneglas, speaks of the Latin as his own j \ language, " In lingua nostra lanio fulve;" and other authorities j j inform us that the Britons boasted of their knowledge of the Latin I t, language : Tacitus remarks that the Britons in Domitian's time, t "affected even the eloquence of the Latin tongue/ ■ \ The British Cymbri after many engagements with Caesar were ] ultimately driven by him towards the Northern Provinces, and t a finally founded a Pictish Kingdom in Caledonia or Scotland, in the , district of Strathclyde near Glasgow and Dumbarton, having Edin- burgh or Dunedin as their capital. Under the name of Picts these i , Cymbri long retained possession of the Southern division of ] Scotland, and engaged with Agricola near the Grampian Hills, as recorded by Tacitus in Agricola. The Welsh have constantly af- firmed (that is, the better informed of their writers) that they came from Scotland, and are descendants of the Strathclyde Britons, who were Caledonians or Picts. These Picts or Caledonians we have seen, were regarded by the Romans as the same race, and the 1 Betham, p. 329. By the Rev. J. L. Ross. 231 Emperor Constans a.d. 306, found it necessary to come over to Britain, we are informed, to repel the Caledonians and other Picts. The terms, Caledones aliique Picti, were employed by Eumenius in a Panegyrick ^.d. 297 and 398 ; and in the end of the fourth cen- tury Ammianus Marcellinus mentions the Caledonians and Picti as the same people : — " Eo tempore Picti in duas gentes divisi Di- caledones and Vecturiones."1 At that time the Picts were divided into two nations, the Dicaledonians and Vecturiones. The hill in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh called Arthur's seat, evidently shows that this was the principal settlement or metropolis of the Aboriginal British race, among whom Arthur the British Prince is traditionally celebrated. Many places in the Southern and Western districts of Scotland retain names of Welsh derivation, or the original language, not of the Scots or Celts, but of the Caledonians or Picts. Detachments of the British Picts obtained possession of Cumberland and Wales, subsequently. After a long possession of the Southern and Western districts of Scotland, the Picts suddenly disappeared as a nation from history, but we are informed that they had long been engaged in a struggle with the Northern inhabitants or Scots. These Scots are believed to have been connected with the Phoenicians, and to have colonized the Western Isles or Hebrides, and the Highlands of Scotland from Ireland, which was the principal seat of the Phoenicians or Gaels. The following account from Fordun, details the last struggle and annihilation of the kingdom in Scotland of the Caledonian or Pictish race, the descendants of the Cymbri. "The Picts" (says Sir W. Betham, p. 413) "made good their settlement in Armorica about the same time they subdued Cumber- land, Wales, and Cornwall, and have ever since been there, a dis- tinct people keeping up their language and customs, which closely resemble that of the inhabitants of Wales. . . . After detach- ments of the Picts had made good their conquest of Wales, Corn- wall, and Armorica (or Britanny), those who remained in Pictland were engaged in constant wars with the Gael of the Western mountains of North Britain, which country they had, a very short 1 Ammian. Marcell. Lib. xxvii. c. 7. 232 The Picts. time before conquered from them ; for the Picts and Scots, though \ they appear as joint invaders of the Roman Province, do not seem fi to have ever acted in concert, but as independent and unconnected nt plunderers. The Scots (or Gael) had the sole object of plunder, CI and it was not a matter of much consideration who was the object. of From one incroachment on the Picts they proceeded to another, % until they completely exterminated the whole race, under Kenneth \\ Mac Alpine ; and but for their colonies in Wales., Cornwall, and i Britanny, their descendants would not now exist, but the name of \ Cymbri would have disappeared from the earth." re " This Kenneth Mac .Alpin, King of Scots, having determined on A the conquest of the Picts, commanded his troops to destroy not only ! ct the men, but also the women and children ; and neither to respect tl sex or holy orders, nor to take prisoners, but to destroy every one with \ { fire and sword. Therefore in the sixth year of his reign, the Picts i \ being much occupied with the defence of their shores against the p vexatious and distressing depredations of the Danish pirates, Ken- \ \ neth attacked them on their mountainous border, called Drum Al- \ ban, or the back of Albion, which having passed, he slew many of ' ]j the Picts, put the rest to flight, and thus conquered and acquired \ both the kingdoms of the monarchy. The Picts recovered a little a by the help of the English, and for four years annoyed Kenneth. 1 Cl But after some ineffectual struggles, and destructive slaughters, in \ the twelfth year of his reign, he engaged them seven times in one \ day, and completely destroyed the whole nation of the Picts; and s thus was united, under one monarch, the whole country from the j | Tyne to the Orcades, as was lately prophesied by Saint Adamman, „ Abbot of Hye, which was, in all respects, confirmed. So, indeed, \ not only were the kings and generals of that nation destroyed, but also the people, root and branch, and even their language is alto- ], gether obliterated, so that whatever is found respecting them of t old times, is considered by many Apocryphal." \ " We have now " says Sir W. Betham,1 " satisfactorily accounted t for the disappearance of the Picts from Scotland, and . . shewn (] that the Welsh were originally a colony of Picts, who conquered 0 1 The Gael and the Cymbri. By the Rev. J. L. Ross. 233 Wales, after the withdrawing the Roman legions from Britain. The chapter on the Oymbri shews the strong probability, if it does not demonstrate the fact, of their being the same people as the Cimbri who inYaded Gaul ; if they lose anything by being deprived of their supposed Celtic ancestry, they acquire as ancient and glo- rious a one. Their ancestors, the Cimbri, were always illustrious in arms ; often a terror to the mistress of the world, and, eventually, one of her conquerors. It will give them what their triads claim for them — the honour of being the first settlers in Britain ; it will restore to them the undisputed possession of their cherished hero Arthur; it will shew that the existence and acts of that illustrious champion of his country were not fabulous ; in short, it will give the Cimbri an existence in real history, while it only deprives them of an imaginary position which they never occupied. If they were, in a very early age, conquered and expelled from the Southern parts of Britain, and driven to the Northern extremity of the island, by the intruding Phoenician Gael, who, in their turn, were sub- dued and amalgamated with their conquerors the indomitable Romans, they had the honour of resisting, with effect and success, the invincible legions of that haughty and encroaching people, and preserved their independence by their vigorous arms and un- conquerable hearts; and when the time of retribution arrived, their descendants rushed on the Roman province — extended the bounds of Pictavia beyond the wall — re-conquered a part of their ancient possessions, Cumberland, the northern part of England, the beautiful and romantic Cambria and Cornwall, and even secu- red a part of the province of Gaul, which their descendants have kept to this day, from them called Britanny." It would appear from Mr. Skeen's elaborate account of the "High- landers of Scotland," that this annihilation of the Picts, if it really occurred to the extent here related, had reference merely to the Vecturiones or Southern division of that race, who under the name and the designation of Piccardach had been long separated from the Northern Cymbri or Picts, known generally as the Dicaledones or Cruithni. This Northern division of the Pictish race, had, we learn from their Chronicles, been for ages at variance with the p 234 The Picts. Vecturiones who inhabited the Southern division of Scotland, and, when repeatedly conquered by Angus Mac Fergus, the King of the Vecturiones or Piccardach, invited the assistance of the Dalriads or Hibernian Scots, who had previously effected a settlement in Argyllshire and Cantyre. After numerous engagements, which rendered Angus Mac Fergus finally the Sovereign of the whole Pictish realm, a Prince of the Dalriads or Scots, who had become connected by marriage with the Royal family of the Cruithni or Northern Picts, at length entirely subjugated the Yecturiones, and transferred the Sovereignty of Alban or North Britain to the Scottish race. By this conquest of the Southern Picts, a.d. 842, the Northern division of that people — the Dicaledones or Cruithni — regained their independence, though at a subsequent period amal- gamated with the Dalriads or Scots. It is probably owing to this amalgamation of the Cruithni Picts with the Scots or the Cymbri and Gael, (whose language formed merely different dialects of the universal and primitive tongue,) that we find in the present time two distinct races in the Highlands of Scotland, one resembling the Cymbri or Picts in their ruddy complexion and hair, while the other exhibits the darker hair and features of the Belgse (or Silures) and Celts, thus indicating a more direct and immediate Oriental extraction. The alliances which were formed for upwards of a century by the Northern Picts with the Dalriads or Scots (or more property the Gael) against the Yecturiones or Southern division of this race, will account for their almost complete extermination, their own preservation, and their amalgamation with the Gael or Scots. Such would seem to be the descent of the present Scottish Highlanders: though it is probable that the Aborigines of the Orkneys were a more ancient colony from the "Northern Hive." But it is time now to make some enquiries respecting the original inhabitants of the Orkneys, which, previous to the Conquest by the Norsemen in a.d. 870, were regarded as a Pictish race. If so, and there is no reason to doubt the correctness of this belief, they must have arrived from Jutland or some other part of the Northern Coasts; driven from what has been well designated "the Great Northern Hive;" and are believed to have long remained in posses- By the Bev. J. L. Boss. 235 sion of these Islands. The principal question for us at present to consider is, what connexion they had with the Phoenicians or Cel- tic race, to whom have been ascribed the erection of Stonehenge and Abury, and other supposed monuments of Druidism ? Though the Celtic and Cymbric races had no connexion for many ages, there is little doubt that they retained many of the original religious cus- toms and rites which were probably, nay must have been, univer- sal in a very early age. As Stukeley and other writers have shewn there are numerous similar customs, religious and others, of a kindred sort, which have been discovered among nations distant in time and locality, and among others the worship of the serpent and the same deities under different names, representations of the Deity (as in Persia of a figure in a circle with wings), of circles and monumental pillars or stones, as in Egypt and other parts of the East. If then the original inhabitants of the Orkneys came over from the North- ern Coasts at a very remote period, they would naturally bring with them this kind of structure or circle, whether for religious or civil uses. A more simple description of building whether for religious, judicial, or other civil objects could not certainly have been adopted ; and its form representing the Sun or the first visible deity worshipped on the declension of mankind into idolatry, was the most obvious form these Aborigines would employ. Besides we are informed in Barry's history of these Islands that certain of them have received and still retain the name of Papse or Papley, from, he conjectures, a priestly or Sacred Order who had either been in- vited from, or had voluntarily or accidentally come over from Ire- land and settled in the Orkneys. Now as Ireland was the principal seat or stronghold of the Phoenicians or Celts, it is by no means improbable that these Papse or Papley belonged to their Sacred Order of Priests the Druids, and if so it is not unreasonable to pre- sume that they would erect structures in a circular form, as are found at Stanhouse and elsewhere in Orkney. The following is Barry's account of these Papae or Priests : — "The Orkneys were first invaded by Harold Harfayer, King of Norway, a.d. 870, who discovered on landing, besides their own countrymen, two distinct people, named Peti, and Papae, whom p 2 23G The Picts. they seem to have regarded as different nations. . . . With regard to the first of them, namely, the Peti, there is no difficulty whatever; for they are plainly no other than the Peihts, Picts, or Piks, whom, on probable evidence, we have already considered as the Aborigines, or first inhabitants of this place. And what puts the matter beyond all doubt, the Scandinavian writers generally call the Piks Peti, or Pets: one of them uses the term Petia, in- stead of Pictland ; and besides, the Frith that divides Orkney from Caithness, is usually denominated Petland Fiard, in the Icelandic Sagas or histories. " "With regard to the Papao, it is more difficult to ascertain who they were. Some have thought they were a people that had, in some former age, come from Norway ; and in support of this opi- nion, mention a place of the name of Papa sound, in that country. "An opinion much more probable has been adopted by others; at the head of whom is an ingenious author Pinkerton1, whose labours have thrown much light on the ancient state of Europe. He supposes they were the Irish Papas or Priests, who had long been the only clergy in the Pictish dominions;2 and as they spoke another language, and were also different in their appearance and manners, they might readily have been taken by these strangers for a dis- tinct race, instead of a separate profession. To give still more probability to this opinion, it may be observed, that in Iceland there was a place of the name of Papay, which was perhaps the residence of these priests ; for such priests seem evidently to have been there, though expelled in some commotion of the people; as the Norwegians, on their arrival, found some of their books, and other articles, which they had left behind them. "It may also be remarked, that there are many people of the name of Papay or Papley here (in the Orkneys) still, as there were formerly, at least in Iceland; and both of them may have sprung from the same origin, namely the Hibernian Priests, whose zeal carried them into distant lands, to diffuse the principles of their religion. ^ntrod. Hiet. Scotland. 2 The Irish were of Phoenician or Celtic origin, whose clergy were Druids. Cffisar says the Germans had no Priests. By the Rev. J. L. Ross. 237 " But what is still more to the point, there are also several places here which still retain the name Papay or Papley, which, when viewed with attention, seem to have something strikingly peculiar. They are all in a retired situation, distinguished for the richness of their soil, and the variety of their natural productions, no less than for the pleasantness of their exposure, and their agreeable prospect; and when all these circumstances are considered, along with some venerable ruins which some of them contain, we are almost compelled to believe that they once were the abode of men of that sacred character. In particular, there are two whole islands that bear that name; both of which, besides the ruins which they exhi- bit, are distinguished among the group for their commodiousness, their pleasant appearance, and the productive richness of their soil, no less than for their retired situation. " These might have been the chief residences of the Papw or priests j1 they might have been their property ; or they might have been the places to which they at last retired, when their labours had become unacceptable to the people, and they had been driven from other parts of the country." Let us now, however, consider the following extracts from Barry's history of the Orkneys, regarding the religion and circular struc- tures of these Islands. " The ancient mythology of Iceland (also of Teutonic or Cym- bric origin) taught in strong energetic language the existence of a "Supreme God the Ruler of the Universe, to whom all things were subject," which Tacitus relates was the belief of the Germans. "In it the object of their worship is styled the author of every thing that exists ; the eternal ; the living and awful being, who searches into concealed matters, and is subject to no change ; of incorruptible justice, infinite power, and unbounded knowledge. From this all perfect God sprung, as emanations of his divinity, an infinite number of inferior deities, who presided over and directed the operations of nature ; and who, on account of the service which they thus performed to mankind, challenged a share in their adoration. Agreeably to this notion, the Picts inhabiting Caledo- 1 Probably Druids having come from Ireland peopled by the Celts. 238 The Picts. nia in the sixth century, paid a sort of divine worship to fountains, and acknowledged many of these inferior gods, whom they reck- oned superior to the God of the Christians. The same people had also magi or priests, who they vainly supposed could raise stones, and perform other miracles ; with them the good St. Co- lumba had many pious conflicts in defence of his mission. " To offer up sacrifices to their Supreme Being; to address thanks and supplications to him ; to do no wrong to others ; to be bold and intrepid, — were the moral precepts which they drew from these doctrines ; and their firm faith in a future state cemented the vener- able fabric, and finished the structure of their religion. In that state, tortures of the most excruciating kind awaited those that des- pised these most important precepts ; and joys without number, and without end, were the portion of such as had been honest, vali- ant, and religious. " This system, at once so pure and so rational, and at the same time so creditable for human nature to have adopted in its unen- lightened state, was of such antiquity, as to be derived from the Scy- thians; and was long believed and practised among the nations of the North which sprung from that root. But unhappily, this beautiful structure, in the course of ages, was much corrupted. " The Supreme Being, instead of being considered as extending his attention and energy to all nature, was now confined to one province ; and passed, with the bulk of the people, under the name of Odin or the God of War." . . In the Icelandic writings Odin is styled " The severe and terrible deity ; the father of slaugh- ter ; the god that causeth desolation and fire ; the active and tre- mendous majesty who giveth victory, and reviveth courage in the conflict, and marketh those in battle that are to be slain ! " To that branch of this extraordinary people, which so long oc- cupied the Orkneys, ought we perhaps to ascribe some objects of antiquity which could not be conveniently classed under any of the foregoing heads. The first of these we shall mention, are those tumuli or barrows, which so often present themselves to the eye in wandering over the surface of these islands ; and which are plainly the rude memorials of persons of note in early days. The most By the Rev. J. L. Ross. 239 ancient method of disposing of the dead was by interment. The earliest Greeks adopted this custom, in which they were imitated by the Romans in the infancy of their state; and the Celts, a very ancient people, seem also to have preferred this method ; and on the graves of illustrious persons, they gathered heaps of stones into a pile, which they called Cairns or Cromlechs, to distinguish them from those of the multitude. "The remains of people of the same eminence among the Gothic tribes, were treated in a different manner. Though their enemies, and the inferior ranks were interred, the bodies of men of distinc- tion, as has been already stated, were either wholly, or in part, consumed to ashes, which were carefully collected either into an Urn, or a coffin formed of stones; and a heap of earth, or tumulus, was raised over them. Hence, the number of these tumuli or bar- rows, spread over the countries inhabited by the different branches of that ancient people in Norway, Sweden, Denmark, England, and the East coast of Scotland, as well as in some of the Hebridae in Iceland, and the Orkney Isles. The numbers found here are con- siderable; seldom single, but two, or three, or more in the same place ; all of a circular form, and different in dimensions ; placed without any distinction of hill or dale, by the sea, or inland ; gene- rally in dry places, and for the most part in sandy ground. Some few of them are encircled with stones set on edge around their bottoms ; a remarkable one has two stones set upright on its top; and, when curiosity has penetrated their interior, they are almost all found to exhibit contents in which there is much similarity. As in Eng- land, those that have been opened have discovered, some of them, urns with ashes ; some stone coffins, in which the bodies have been deposited; and some, naked skeletons:1 — so here also, when looked into, they have been found to contain the same things. But be- sides these, which are the principal, several other articles have sometimes been found along with them ; such as the bones of some domestic animal; swords of metal, or of bone; helmets, combs, with other things, the use of which cannot now be discovered. 1 Pinkerton, &c. 240 The Picts. . . . "To the same people, perhaps, and about the same period, must be referred another class of objects, that in different places,, raised their lofty heads to arrest the attention of the curious. These are the huge standing stones, one or more of which, may be seen in most of the islands. They are commonly from twelve to twenty feet in height above ground, their breadth five, and thickness one or more ; and as the most of them seem, from the places in which they are erected, to have been carried from a considerable dis- tance, it may justly excite wonder, how in the ignorance of mecha- nical power (?) this could be effected. Numbers and perseverance united, will achieve deeds, to conceive which would baffle the efforts of imagination. " By whatever means they were brought, or in whatever manner erected, they are rude blocks of hard stone, of the same shape in which they are brought from the quarry ; without any marks of an instru- ment ; without carving, inscription, or hieroglyphics ; they are plainly the monuments of an early age, when the people were ignorant of arts and letters (?). " For what purpose, or with what design, they were erected, an- tiquity furnishes us with no account; records are silent; and tra- dition, to which recourse must be sometimes had, in the penury of other evidence, ventures not in this case to hazard an opinion. " Some have supposed them intended to mark the spot that con- tained the bones, or ashes, of a beloved prince, or brave chieftain, or dear departed friend ; or to serve as a boundary between the ter- ritories of one great man and those of another : while others have imagined them designed to preserve the remembrance of some noted event that concerned the safety, the honor, or the advantage of the community. " Since no tumuli, urns, or graves, have ever been found near them, they cannot certainly be considered memorials of the dead; nor is it more probable that they were intended to mark the limits of contiguous proprietors, as land-marks, equally well calculated to serve the purpose, might have been erected with infinitely less labour. If therefore, they were not intended to serve the purpose of places of worship, they were most likely raised to preserve the By the Rev. J. L. Boss. 241 remembrance of some fortunate event, or perpetuate the memory of some noble action ; and the rough simplicity of their appearance sufficiently justifies us in referring them to an early age, and to the first inhabitants of these islands." In a later portion of his description of the Orkney Islands, Mr. Barry relates that the Island of Westray, in particular, contains, on the north and south-west sides of it, a great number of graves, scattered over two extensive plains, of that nature which are called links in Scotland.1 "They have, at first," he states, "perhaps, been covered with tumuli or barrows, though of this there is no absolute certainly, as the ground, on which they are, is composed entirely of sand, by the blowing of which the graves have been only of late discovered. They are formed either of stones of a moderate size, or of four larger ones on end, arranged in the form of a chest, to contain the body, and such other articles as the custom of the time interred with it. Few or no marks of burning are observable in these remains of the dead, which are occupied mostly by bones, not of men only, but of several other animals. Warlike instruments of the kind then in use, also make a part of their contents, among which may be reckoned battle-axes, two-handled swords, broad- swords, helmets, swords made of bone of a large fish, and also dag- gers. They have, besides, been found to contain instruments em- ployed in the common purposes of life, as knives and combs ; and others that have been used as ornaments, such as beads, brooches, and chains ; together with some other articles, the use of which is now unknown. Of this last kind may be mentioned, a flat piece of marble, of a circular form, about two inches and a half in diameter ; several stones, in shape and appearance like whet-stones, that have never been used ; and an iron vessel, resembling an helmet, only four inches and a half in the cavity, much damaged, as if with the stroke of a sharp weapon, such as an axe or sword. In one of them was found a metal spoon, and a glass cup that contained two gills, Scotch measure ; and in another, a number of stones, formed into the shape and size of whorles,1 like those that were formerly used for spinning in Scotland. 1 Sandy flat ground, generally near the sea. 242 The Picts. . . . "Strange as they may appear, the stones (previously referred to) are not peculiar to this place : they are found in Scan- dinavia, from which perhaps the first inhabitants of this country (the Orkney Islands) originally came ; and they are also sometimes found in Great Britain. " But those that are formed into figures of various sorts> especi- ally circles and semicircles, are the most curious and remarkable ; and it is truly astonishing, that though they occur in different places, they have not, so far as we have learned, been taken notice of by any oj the ancient writers. The reason perhaps is, that, as they bear marks of being Gothic monuments, they must be referred to a later age, when that people had spread themselves, in nations, tribes, and colonies, through most of the countries of the West of Europe." We shall not stop to refute this hypothesis, which would deprive these ex- traordinary remains of an antiquity which extended, as we learn from Csesar, long prior to his invasion of Britain, and which are to be met with in Eastern and other nations, as at Gilgal, &c, and long antecedent, it is thought, to Roman times. That they would have shared the fate of the Druidical groves, had they been of Druidical origin, is also, we conceive, a fallacy, as besides being less easily destroyed than the sacred groves, they were probably not always strictly confined to religious rites, but may have been appropriated as in Scandinavia and Gilgal for the " administration of justice," as well as performance of sacrifice. "In the largest class," Mr. Barry observes, "we may certainly rank Stonehenge in England," (he had not probably heard of the still lar- ger circles that formerly existed at Abury), and "which might have been the place for the meeting of their national assembly, as they met in the open air. To the same class may be referred that noble circle of Classerness in the Lewis, which may have been a court house, in which affairs of importance might have been transacted, relative to the interest of the community. Their kings and chiefs were also sometimes elected in these large circles, while the lesser ones were used as temples of the inferior gods, and not un- frequently as family burial places. (?) 1 A round perforated piece of wood put upon a spindle. By the Rev. J. L. Ross. 243 " On the Loch Stennis in the principal island of the Orkneys called the Mainland, there is a circle sixty fathoms in diameter, formed by a ditch on the outside, twenty feet broad, and twelve deep ; and on the inside by a range of standing stones, twelve or fourteen feet high, and four broad ; several of them are fallen down : of others fragments remain, and of some only the holes in which they stood. The earth that has been taken from the ditch has been car- ried away, and very probably been made use of to form four tumuli or barrows, of considerable magnitude, which are ranked in pairs on the east and west sides of this remarkable monument of antiquity. " The plain on the east border of the Loch exhibits a semicircle, sixteen fathoms in diameter, formed not like the circle with a ditch but by a mound of earth, and with stones in the inside, like the former in shape, though of much larger dimensions. Near the circle, there are standing stones that seem to be placed in no regu- lar order that we can now discern ; and near the semicircle are others of the same description. In one of the latter is a round hole, not in the middle, but towards one of the edges, much worn, as if by the friction of a rope or chain, by which some animal was bound. Towards the centre of the semicircle, too, is a very large broad stone noiv lying on the ground ; but whether it stood formerly like those around it, or has been raised and supported on pillars to serve a particular purpose, we shall not take upon us to determine.1 . . . "For the combined and important ends of law and religion no spot could have been devised more convenient in its situation than the Loch Stennis for such a circular structure. Not far distant from the middle of the Mainland, which is itself in the centre of the island, at nearly an equal distance from Birsa where the Princes and Earls used to reside, and Kirkwall, which had long been considered as the capital, — Stennis is within a mile of the bay of Frith, to which boats from the North Isles have ready access ; and still nearer to the bay of Kairston in which boats land from the South Isles with equal facility. Before any civil business commenced in these conventions, sacrifices would be performed ; and the perforated stone that stands near the semicircle might have 1 Perhaps it served for an altar on which the victims were sacrificed. 244 The Picts. served for fastening the victim, while that near its side was pro- bably made use of as an altar for the immolation, " At Applecross, in the West of Ros3-sbire are standing stones similar to these ; some of which are formed into a circle, and others into a triangle;1 with one in the midst of them, perforated in the same manner. Yery near these too, are tumuli or mounds of earth, such as those mentioned near the stones of Stennis. Ano- ther of these circles, composed of stones of the same nature, and in the same circumstances, stands in a moor, near Beauley, in Inver- ness-shire." The frequent subjection of the counties of Caithness and Ross by the Earls of Orkney, may account for the existence of monu- ments and circles in the Northern districts of Scotland, similar to those which are frequently met with in Orkney. It is not impro- bable that the Aborigines of Scotland were the Northern division of the Picts, who had emigrated at a very early period from the Jutland Chersonesus to Orkney and the Northern districts of Scot- land, or to some extent formed a detachment of the same Aborigi- nal race who colonized England, long antecedent to its discovery by the Phoenicians. In either hypothesis, to this source may pro- bably be traced the enmity which existed between the Southern and Northern Pictish races, and which terminated in the conquest of the former by the Hibernian Scots, and their subsequent invasion of Cumberland and Wales. The inference I would venture to draw from tMs account of the circular structures in Orkney is, that all such circular build- ings and stones whether in this country, Scotland, Ireland, or elsewhere, are monuments of the very earliest ages, and existing proofs of the one universal religion which prevailed for many cen- turies after the deluge, whether in the Patriarchal or a more sub- sequent age. There need therefore be no controversy caused by the different races who are presumed to have been their builders, whether ancient Phoenicians or Celts, the ancient Cymbri, Caledo- nians, or Picts. 1 Perhaps a Dracontic temple as at Abury. H. Bull, Printer, Saint John Street, Devizes. milts Itckalogual « latol itorg jtorwtB. iVko Members elected to Sept. 27th, 1859. Abbot, Rev. J., Corsham. Bartlett, William, Burbage. Black, Rev. — Barbican, London. Bid well, Miss, Devizes. Booker, Rev. J. K., Teffont. Brown, Mr., Canal, Salisbury. Brown, T. Pearce, Burderop. Britton, Mrs., Gresham Villas, Croydon. Bruce, Rt. Hon. Lord Ernest, M.P., (Life Member.) Burt, H. P., Charlotte Roto, City, London. Brewin, Robert, Cirencester. Bradley, Rev. G. G., Marlborough College. Cottle, J., Clandoivn Coal Works, Bath. Crowdy, Rev. A., Winchester. Dixon, Henry, Marlborough. Dixon, Stephen B., Pewsey. Dowding, Rev. T. W., Marlborough. Griffith, C. Darby, M.P., Padworth House, Reading. Haleomb, John, Hung erf or d. Hall, Marshall, Blacklands Park. Hill, Miss, Rock House, Bath. Hillyard, B., Stanton St. Bernard. Hoare, Sir Hugh A., Stourhead, (Life Member.) Inman, Rev. E., Pewsey. King, W. W., King Street, Cheapside, London. Lancaster, Rev. T. B., Grittleton. Long, Walter, M.A., Preshaw House, Hants. Long, Charles E., M. A., Chapel Street, Grosvenor Sq., London. Lloyd, Henry, Great George Street, Bristol. Mann, Rev. Thos., Trowbridge. Mansell, E. W., Swindon. Merrimac, Edward B., Marlborough. Methuen, Rev. Henry ^H., Allcannings. Morris, William, Swindon. Parsons, W. F., Hunt's Mill, Wootton Basset. Pinckney, G. H., Overton. Poynder, T. H. Allen, M.A., Hartham Park, (Life Member.) Pratt, James, Wootton Basset. Ravenshaw, Rev. T. F., Pewsey. Ross, Rev. J. Lockhart, Avebury. Ward, Rev. H., Aldwincle, near Thrapston. Wilkes, B. J., Manor Farm, Bay don. GEORGE MATCHAM OF NEWHOUSE, ESQ,. The compiler of the " History of Devizes" hereby begs to express his regiet for an act of forgetf illness in omitting from the preface the name of George Matcham, Esq., whose courteous assistance it was his full intention to have acknowledged. Annual Subscriptions (10s. 6d.) are payable in advance, on the First of January, to Mr. Edward Kite, Devizes. The Nunbers of this Magazine will not be delivered, as issued, to Members who are in arrear of their Annual Subscription : and who on being applied to for payment of such arrears, have taken no notice of the application. A G E NTS FOR THE SALE OP THE WILTSHIRE MAGAZINE. Bath Peach & Co., Bridge Street. Bristol T. Kerslake, 3, Park Street. Bradford J. Day, Old Market Place. Calne H. S. & A. Heath, High Street. Chippenham. . J. & Gr. Notes, High Street. Cirencester . . E. Baily, Market Place. Devizes H. Bull, St. John Street. K. B. Randle, Market Place. Marlborough. . W. W. Lucy, High Street. Melksham .... J. Cochrane, Bank Street, Oxford J. H. Parker, Broad Street. Salisbury .... Brown & Co., Canal. Swindon .... Alfred R. Dore, Victoria Street. Trowbridge . . J. Diplock, Fore Street. Warminster . . R. E. Tardy, Market Place. H. BULL, PBINTER, DEVIZES. No. XVIII. APRIL, I860. Vol. VI. THE WILTSHIRE Irrjftrologiral ani Jktaral listnrtj MAGAZINE, ^ufclteijelr untstv fyt Birtctian OF THE SOCIETY FORMED IN THAT COUNTY, A.D. 1853. DEVIZES: Printed and Sold for the Society by Henry Bull, Saint John Street. LONDON : Bell & Daldt, 186, Fleet Street; J. R. Smith, 36, Soho Squabe. Price, 4s. 6d. — Members, Gratis. The Society b9gs to return its thanks to the Rev. John "Ward, Rector of Wath, for his kind contribution of some of the Great Bedwyn Illustrations in the present Number: also, to Miss E. Wickins, of the Close, Salisbury, for 500 copies of the Engrav- ing, from a drawing by herself, of the Seal of the Weavers' Company at Salisbury. It is described in Hatcher's History of Salisbury, p. 18. The other Seal has not been identified. The Members of the Society are requested not to bind up Vol. vi., until the additional Plate relating to Great Bedwyn, mentioned in the Title Page, has been finished. Annual Subscriptions (10s. 6d.) are payable in advance, on the First of January, to Mr. Edward Kite, Devizes. The Numbers of this Magazine will not be delivered, as issued, to Members who are in arrear of their Annual Subscription : and who on being applied to for payment of such arrears, have taken no notice of the application. THE WILTSHIRE Irrljelngird unit JMtmtl Ifefanj MAGAZINE. No. XVIII. APRIL, 1860. Vol VI. Contents. PAGE Account of the Sixth General Meeting, at Marlborough, 27th, 28th, and 29th September, 1859 245-255 Articles exhibited at the Temporary Museum 256-260 Great Bedwyn: By the Rev. John Ward, M.A., Rector of Wath, Co. York 261-291 I. — The Parish and Church. Roman Antiquities, 261. The Lordship, 263. Wolf hall, 264. The Esturmy Horn, 265. Ecclesiastical History, 267. Vicars, 268. St. Nicholas, East Grafton, 270. Stock, 27 L. Marten, 273. Great Bedwyn Church, 274. Seymour Monuments, 281. Dr. Thomas Willis, 288. Charities, 290. II. — The Representative History of Great Bedwyn 291-316 Barrows on the Downs of North Wilts, Examination of, in 1853-57: By John Thurnam, M.D., F.S.A 317-336 Flora of Wiltshire, (No. 5) : By T. B. Flower, Esq., M.R.C.S., &c. 337-364 The Great Wiltshire Storm of December 30th, 1859 : By the Rev. A. C. Smith, M.A 365-388 Wild Darell of Littlecote, (No. 3): By C. E. Long, Esq 389-396 Donations to the Museum and Library 397 ILLUSTRATIONS. Horn of the Esturmys ; Ditto details, 265. View of East Grafton Church, 270. Borough Seal of Great Bedwyn ; Ancient Pax found at East Grafton, 271. Marten Chapel: Ground plan ; Ivory carving, and Stained glass, 273. View of Great Bedwyn Church, To appear in a subsequent number. Tomb of Sir John Seyrnour, 283. Skull from Morgan's Hill, 318. Drinking Cup from Pound Down barrow, 321. View from Seven Barrow Hill : and relics found there, 329. Seal of Weavers' Company at Salisbury ; Ancient Seal, supposed Monastic, 396. DEVIZES: Henry Bull, 4, Saint John Street. LONDON: Bell & Daldy, 186, Fleet Street; J. R. Smith, 36, Soho Square. THE WILTSHIRE MAGAZINE, ' ' MTJLTOETJM MANIBUS GEANDE LEYATUE ONUS." — Ovid. THE SIXTH GENERAL MEETING OF THE SKtltsljtre arcft^ological an* Natural Sfetorg Society HELD AT MARLBOROUGH, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 27th, 28th, and 29th September, 1859. PEESIDENT OP THE MEETING, G. PoULETT ScROPE, ESQ., M.P. |^^||HE Town- Hall of Marlborough having been kindly placed j^jSHf at the service of the Society, the proceedings of the Sixth Anniversary Meeting commenced at 12 o'clock on Tuesday, Sept. 27th, under the Presidency of G. Poulett Scrope, Esq., M.P. — On taking the chair, Mr. SCROPE said it was with great reluctance he had under- taken the duties of the office in which they had been kind enough to place him, because he felt that the chair would be far better occupied by others whom he saw present, and who were locally connected with the town and neighbourhood of Marlborough. In- deed, but for unavoidable absence, the Marquis of Ailesbury, who by his personal character, no less than by his rank, held such a high position in that neighbourhood, would, no doubt, have presided over the meeting on this occasion. They were now entering upon the seventh year of the existence of this Society, and he thought he might congratulate the members upon the suc- cessful progress which it had made during that period. It was a progress neither too rapid, nor too explosive in its character; other- wise, they might not expect it to endure; but it had been gradual, and, as such, might lead them to hope that it would be permanent, VOL. VI. — NO. XVIII. Q 246 The Sixth General Meeting. and that they might hand down the Society to another generation when they who formed it were called upon to leave it. Al- though this was the seventh year of the Society's existence, it was only the sixth Annual Meeting which had been held. It was not thought advisable to hold any meeting last year, inasmuch as the two central Societies, which claim to be exclusively national associations, met during that year either in this county or upon its borders : — one at Salisbury, the other in Bath : and notwithstand- ing the increasing popularity of Archaeology, still many might be of opinion that it is possible to have too much even of a thing so useful and rational as that. Even within the last week one of the Societies he had alluded to had held its Annual Meeting at Newbury. Although the close pressure of these Societies might have its inconveniences, it must be regarded as a satisfactory in- dication of the variety and attractiveness of the antiquities which abound in this part of England. With regard to this particular district, as yet, no body of archaeologists had ever paid a special visit to this place : he did not, however, go too far when he said that there was no part of the county — scarcely any part of England — which exceeded it in the abundance of ancient monuments and objects of antiquarian interest. They were here, in fact, in the centre of that great chalk platform of Berkshire "and Wiltshire which might be called the cradle of the prae-historic races which colonized and inhabited Ancient Britain, and had left their traces over all the hills around them. Stonehenge itself must yield the palm in antiquity and mystery to the circles and avenues of Ave- bury, whilst the wonderful earthwork of Silbury Hill was not equal- led in magnitude in any part of the island. Again, there was the Castle-hill of Marlborough, which almost rivalled Silbury in mys- tery. This place, as they knew, had in later times been occupied by many of the early Norm an kings, and during the last year of the reign of Edward the Third, had been the scene of one remarkable event, the enactment of the Statutes of Marlborough by the Parliament, then held here, which he believed was the first occasion in which the Commons of England made their appearance in Parliament. Placed as this district was about midway between London and The Sixth General Meeting. 247 Bristol, the two early capitals of the South of England, it was the peculiar battle-field of contending factions, during the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, and the scene of many a struggle between the barons and their sovereign, or between the barons themselves. Again, during the great rebellion in the middle of the 17th cen- tury, and even in later times, the rival forces here met during the civil conflicts which then occurred ; so that he was correct in saying that for historical and antiquarian interest, this district, if not pre-eminent, equalled any other upon the face of our island. As to Ecclesiastical buildings, the neighbourhood certainly had no Cathedral like that of Salisbury, no Abbey like that of Lacock ; but it had several interesting parish churches, such as Preshute and Bedwyn, which would well repay an examination. There was also close to the town a Roman Station of considerable importance. He would now only add that this meeting would conclude in three days — and they would find those three days probably too short for the variety of subjects they had to examine — and that the com- mittee having taken into consideration the place of their next Annual Meeting, had come to the conclusion to hold it at Malms- bury. Malmsbur}'- had many objects of antiquarian interest in and around it, and he hoped that the selection would be approved. The Rev. A. 0. Smith (one of the General Secretaries) then read THE REPORT. "The Committee of the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural His- tory Society have much pleasure in reporting the general well-being of the Society, which still maintains a steady increase in its number of members, the list of names now amounting to 388 : being a slight addition since last year ; and this, though we have to lament the deduction of ten members, by death, or withdrawal, or removal from the county. Thus the Society has gradually advanced with- out a single drawback from the day of its inauguration at Devizes in 1853, when it numbered 137 supporters, making a steady pro- gress every year, and attracting the attention and cohesion of resi- dents in all parts, until it has now gained a firm hold in the county, and your Committee would fain believe, has secured the good-will and interest of most educated Wiltshiremen. q 2 248 The Sixth General Meeting. "Still, however, it must not be lost sight of, that our object being to attract the assistance and sympathy of all who feel an interest in the past history and natural productions of our county, and our earnest desire being to embrace within our ranks all who have these things at heart, and can aid us in their several localities, we are most desirous of enlarging the list of our members to a yet farther extent. We hope to induce many more to join us who at present keep aloof from a most mistaken notion that our Society is a very learned and scientific body, whereas it proposes nothing more for its objects than the investigation of little-known facts, the elucidation of half-forgotten occurrences, the collecting infor- mation about past generations, and some insight into the Natural History of the county in all its branches. In effecting this, such a Society can only hope to be thoroughly successful through the instrumentality of many scattered throughout the several parishes ; and therefore it cordially invites the assistance of all who feel dis- posed to combine for this worthy object — viz., investigation of the past and natural History of Wilts. "Our finances claim your particular notice, for though apparently — and in reality — in a very flourishing condition, they are much hampered, and considerable inconvenience and loss caused, by many members neglecting to pay their subscriptions regularly, the ar- rears of which, for past years, still amount to a considerable sum, notwithstanding the earnest appeal on this matter in the Eeport of last year. " Your Committee would next direct your attention to our library and museum at Devizes, both of which are daily available to mem- bers of the Society ; and to the augmentation, and consequently increased usefulness of which, we confidently look forward, by donations of books and specimens, illustrating the two objects we have in view — viz., the Archaeology and Natural History of the county. Both the library and museum have been enriched by many valuable contributions since last year. The Society has also received additions to their collection of Wiltshire tokens from seve- ral kind friends ; a complete catalogue of the coins issued by Wilt- shire tradesmen has been printed in the Magazine, and the Com- The Sixth General Meeting. 249 mittee would express a hope that such of the friends of the Society as have it in their power, will aid in making this portion of their museum more complete. "The Magazine, under the management of Canon Jackson, (for whose labours as editor your Committee cannot sufficiently express their thanks), has now entered upon its sixth volume with, it is hoped, no lack of interesting material and undiminished ability. It will be seen that in prosecuting researches into the past history of the county, the Society has not forgotten the other object it has in view, but from time to time varies its treatises on antiquities with geological, botanical, and ornithological notices. "It only remains for your Committee once more to impress upon your attention the necessity for your zealous co-operation: not only in enlisting new members as recruits to our ranks, (though that is of considerable service, and much strengthens our hands), but in making known anything of interest that may come under your notice in your several localities, illustrative of the Archaeology or the Natural History of Wiltshire." Thanks were given to the Committee for the Report, and for the pains and trouble which they had taken in presiding over the financial arrangements of the Society; and the same*officers (with the exception of the President) having been re-appointed; Mr. Scrope said it had been proposed that in the place of Mr. Sidney Herbert, whose term of office had just expired, Mr. Sotheron Estcourt should be requested to take the Presidency|of the Society for the next three years. [This proposal met with unanimous as- sent.] The Rev. Canon Jackson then read the Paper of which he had given notice: "On the Grey wethers, and their uses at Avebury and Stonehenge." THE DINNER. At half-past three o'clock the members and their friends, includ- ing a great number of ladies, and amounting altogether to about 100, dined in the large school-room lately built in St. Peter's parish. An excellent repast was provided by Mr. Hammond of the Castle and Ball Inn, with liberal addition of venison and fruit 250 The Sixth General Meeting. sent by the Marquis of Ailesbury. F. A. Carrington, Esq. of Og- bourne St. George, Recorder of Wokingham, and one of the most constant supporters of the Society, rendered further assistance upon this occasion by discharging most ably the duties of Chairman. In giving, after other introductory healths, that of the Bishop and Clergy of the Diocese, Mr. Carrington said: "I must in this in- stance depart from the usual form, and adopt that of the Bishops and Clergy: for perhaps all who are here are not aware that the town of Marlborough has, at the present time, the advantage of being presided over by tivo Bishops — viz., the Bishop of Salisbury, in whose diocese it is situated, and another Bishop, who is more im- mediately connected with it.1 We are under great obligations to the clergy in their public capacity, and there can be no doubt that the County Antiquarian Society depends in a main degree upon them for its support. The resident clergyman in each parish is able to look after its antiquities, to present them, or cause them to be presented, and give some account of their existence which we should often not know of, but for him." The compliment to the clergy was acknowledged by the Rev. E. B. Warren, vicar of St. Mary's, Marlborough. The healths of the Marquis of Lansdowne, President of the Society, and of the Magistrates, were then given; with special al- lusion to George Matcham, Esq. of New House, near Salisburj7-, who was present: one of the Authors of the History of South Wiltshire, printed under the name and at the expense of Sir R. C. Hoare. Mr. Matcham, in the course of returning thanks said, he believed he was almost the Nestor, not only of the magistrates, but of the antiquaries of Wiltshire. It was now between thirty and forty years ago that he first had the pleasure of seeing the town of Marlborough, as one of the magistrates of the county attending the Quarter Sessions. The Chairman next ventured to propose the healths of two emi- 1 The Rev. Edward Wyndham Tuffnell, D.D., Prebendary of Salisbury and Rector of St. Peter's, Marlborough, consecrated June 14th, 1859, to the newly- erected Bishopric of Brisbane, Australia. The Sixth General Meeting. 251 nent statesmen at once. They were the Right Hon. Sidney Herbert and the Right Hon. Sotheron Estcourt. Mr. Sidney Herbert had for three years been the President of their Archaeolo- gical Society. He might observe that no one took a greater inter- est in the archaeology of the county to which he belonged than Mr. Sidney Herbert, and every archaeologist ought to feel very much obliged to him for having given the Society his services during the last three years. With regard to the other right hon. gentle- man— Mr. Sotheron Estcourt — it had been suggested that he should be asked to become the President of the Society for the next three years, and he (Mr. Carrington) hoped he would accept the office, for a man of his talent could not do otherwise than discharge its duties with advantage to the Society. [The toast was very heartily received.] The Marquis of Ailesbury's name was next welcomed with much satisfaction, and in his absence, his brother Lord Ernest Bruce kindly promised to do the honours of Tottenham Court the next day. The Chairman said he would now propose the health of a gentle- man who had been one of the best supporters of the Wiltshire Archaeological Society from the first hour of its institution to the present moment : Mr. Poulett Scrope. Some years had now elapsed since the Wiltshire Archaeological Society was first started, and throughout its existence one of its most influential and persevering supporters had been Mr. Poulett Scrope. He had never for an in- stant slackened in his antiquarian energy; and to him it was in great measure owing that this was one of the best County Societies in England. Others — the Bristol Society for one — had crumbled into dust more than the very antiquities which they sought : but the Wiltshire Society was going on as it had begun: for which they were very much indebted to their friend the President of the Marlborough Meeting. Mr. Poulett Scrope in reply, only claimed the merit of having taken the same interest as others had shown in the archaeology of the county. He had wished to join in doing for the Northern part of Wiltshire, what Mr. Matcham and his colleagues had done for the South. 252 The Sixth General Meeting. The health of Lord Ernest Bruce was then given, and acknow- ledged by his Lordship. In thanking both the General "Secretaries" of the Society, as well as Mr. T. B. Merriman and Mr. R. E. Price who had under- taken the Honorary office for the temporary arrangements at Marlborough, Mr. Carrington alluded more particularly to the work which belongs to the office as connected with the publication of the Society's Magazine. "With regard to the papers that ap- peared in it, they took days and weeks and months to compile. It sounded very pleasant to ears polite to hear papers read, but he must remind them that it was only by great diligence that those papers were got into a complete form ; and to the Secretaries, they were very much indebted, not only for those papers, but for the many other services which they unostentatiously performed. The papers published by other provincial Societies were in no way to be compared with those of this Society. That upon Avebury, read this morning, had given him the greatest satisfaction." The Rev. Canon Jackson desired that among those whom the toast included, as having given much time and trouble to the com- position of Articles for the Magazine, might more particularly be named, the Rev. W. H. Jones, vicar of Bradford-on-Avon, and the Rev. J. Wilkinson, rector of Broughton Grifford; who, during the past year had each completed careful and excellent Histories of their respective parishes. After the healths of " The Mayor and Corporation of Marlbo- rough," to which the Mayor, Mr. Gwillim, replied, following up his speech with a proposal of hearty thanks to " Mr. Carrington," for having added so much to the hilarity of the day : and then " The Ladies ;" on which the Rev. W. C. Ltjkis specially men- tioned the kindness of Mrs. John Britton (the Antiquary's widow, then present), in making many donations to the museum; the company separated. THE CONVERSAZIONE. In the evening, the Rev. Canon Jackson resumed his paper, which now bore particular reference to the origin and date of Stonehenge. On this perplexing question, he felt, upon the whole, The Sixth General Meeting. 253 most inclined to adopt the opinion that it was a work of the 5th century after Christ: constructed by the Britons during the inter- val of restored independence, between the dominion of the Romans and that of the Saxons. Mr. Matcham stated some of the difficulties which prevented his concurring in this view of the matter. Mr. W. Cunnington then read a paper on some recent disco- veries in a Roman Station at Baydon. SECOND DAY. WEDNESDAY, Sept. 28th. Under the guidance of Mr. T. B. Merriman a large party went this morning to inspect places of interest on the east of Marlbo- rough. Passing up Forest Hill to Folly Farm, certain vestiges on the brow of the hill were pointed out as part of the site assigned by Sir R. C. Hoare to the Roman Station called Cunetio. The next point was Chisbury Castle, a few miles off. This is the name of a commanding position crowned with entrenchments and earth- works much hidden in wood. There are no old military buildings within the area, but a farmhouse and premises, and near them an ancient chapel (14th century) of flint and stone, which before the Reformation belonged to the Priory of St. Denis, near Southamp- ton. It is now used as a barn. The Rev. F. H. Buckerfield, vicar of Little Bedwyn, and the Rev. George Stallard, curate of East Grafton, kindly attended with plans and other information. Great Bedwyn Church was the next object, and the improve- ments it had undergone were explained by the Rev. W. C. Lukis : who then conducted the party into the middle of a wood called Castle Copse where in 1854 he had discovered the site of a Roman villa. This had been again opened for the present occasion. The spot is remarkable from having a branch of the Wansdyke running across it; from having an early British earthwork enclosing a con- siderable area, and from being the site of perhaps several Roman villas. Upon one of the pavements had been found a lady's gold ring, on which a cross was engraved : and which is now in the Society's museum. Tottenham presented a timely refuge under a storm of rain, and 254 The Sixth General Meeting. by the permission of Lord Ailesbury, the company (about ninety in number) took a pic-nic dinner in the Orangery. After which Lord Ernest Bruce politely conducted his numerous visitors over the House, and caused several very curious family relics to be ex- hibited: among others, the celebrated Savernake Horn, and the Seymour Pedigree. SECOND CONVERSAZIONE. In the evening at the Town-Hall, Mr. F. A. Carrington gave some amusing particulars about the "Ancient State of Marlborough and its inhabitants. " Mr. Poulett Scrope called the attention of the Society to the curious discoveries recently made in France, of celts (stone axes) in a stratum of gravel or drift, containing relics of extinct species of animals, and suggested that search should be made for similar objects in the gravels of this county. Mr. Edward B. Merriman read an account of aThe Charity of the Velvet Pall, and the Maces of the Town of Marlborough." THIRD DAY. THURSDAY, Sept. 29th. This day was spent on the western side of Marlborough. On the way to the greater wonders of Silbury Hill and Avebury, the newly restored Church at Preshute (Priest's Holt), and its cele- brated black marble Font, said to have been used in the reign of King John for Royal baptisms,, were shown by the Rev. T. W. Dowding. The " Grey wethers" came next. The vast collection of these remarkable blocks of stone, lying either imbedded, or on the sur- face of the ground, in a combe on the right hand of the turnpike road about four miles from Marlborough, though called " The Val- ley of Stones," is in fact only one of several such vallies. This and the great Cromlech called " The Devil's Den," having been ex- amined, a diversion was next made from the road beyond West Kennet to the "Long Barrow" on the brow of a hill south of Sil- hury. This had been partty opened under the direction of Dr. Thurnam of Devizes, who under the friendly roof of a cart-shed The Sixth General Meeting. 255 (the wind being rather boisterous) gave an account of this burial place : as well as of the result of his discoveries in thirty other barrows opened by him during the last five years. The ascent and descent of Silbury Hill, the walk to the great upright stones called "The Devil's Coits," and thence to the vast circular vallum of Avebury, the Parish Church, &c, occupied the rest of the afternoon until about four o'clock, when the proceedings of this Meeting were brought to a conclusion at another pic-nic dinner (of nearly 100) in the School-room, which had been prettily decorated by Mr. Laurence Ohivers the worthy and venerable parish clerk. The Rev. J. Lockhart Ross, vicar, Mr. George Brown, Mr. T. Keram, and Mr. Hillier, gave the Society a very cordial welcome to their parish and its antiquities, and were in return as cordially thanked for the trouble they had all taken in providing for its accommodation. Before finally separating, the Rev. A. C. Smith, vicar of Yates- bury, read an interesting Paper on the subject of Silbury Hill, in which he very strongly advocated the Sepulchral side of this dis- puted question. After having made deserved acknowledgement to Mr. Poulett Scrope for his Presidential labours, the company took their leave. The temporary Museum arranged by Mr. Edward Kite in the Assembly-room was an exceedingly good one: and to the Mayor and Corporation, the Local Committee, and more especially to Mr. T. B. Merriman and Mr. R. E. Price, the Society returns its grate- ful thanks for the exertions by which they enabled their visitors to enjoy a very satisfactory Anniversary Meeting at Marlborough. The subjects of the different Papers read at this Meeting have been here only briefly alluded to, as the Papers themselves will probably all appear in due time in this publication. 256 IN THE TEMPORARY MUSEUM AT THE TOWN-HALL, MARLBOROUGH, September 27th, 28th, and 29th, 1859. Those marked with an Asterisk have been presented to the Society. By G. Potjxett Scrope, Esq., M.P., Castle Combe: — The Rev. J. M. Jephson's "Walking Tour in Brittany, with a Box of Photo- graphic views of scenery, churches, the megalithic monuments at Carnac, &c. By Rev. W. C. Lukis, F.S.A., Collingbourne Ducis : — A series of 250 casts of Initial Crosses, Letters, Founder's Marks, and other devices from Church Bells in the counties of Wilts, Sussex, Norfolk, Yorkshire, Kent, &c. *Bone Pin, Beads of amber, jet, and Kimmeridge coal; and small drinking cup of coarse pottery, from Barrows in the parish of Collingbourne Ducis. * Portions of Mortaria and other vessels, glass, stucco, iron, and bronze articles found in a Roman Yilla at " Castle Copse," in the parish of Great Bedwyn in 1853. [A small gold ring, engraved with a cross, together with other articles of bronze, iron, and ivory, from the same Yilla, have been before presented to the Museum of the Society, by the Mar- quis of Ailesbury, and the Rev. W. C. Lukis. See Yols. ii. p. 26, and iii. p. 14.] * An Ancient British silver coin, of Greek type; Roman coins, Tradesmen's Tokens, Nuremberg Tokens, &c. found at Collingbourne Ducis. By Henry J. F. S watne, Esq., Recorder of Wilton, Netherhampton House: — * Photograph from the Charter granted by Henry I. to the Burgesses of Wilton. By T. Rawdon Ward, Esq. Petition presented by Mary Burden, of Corsham (widow of Captain William Burden), to Oliver Cromwell, for relief; and Cromwell's order thereupon, bearing his autograph. Two autograph letters of John Locke. Also ten roundels, or fruit trenchers, temp. Q,ueen Elizabeth, bearing quaint inscrip- tions. By Francis Letbourne Popham, Esq., Littleeote Park: — Two swords ; one of extraordinary length, dug up near Chiseldon in 1852. Portions of Encaustic Tile found at Littleeote. Also a small collection of Nuremberg and other Tokens. By Horatio Nelson Goddard, Esq., Chjffe Manor House: — Beads, glass, and iron Spear Head, found with skeletons on Thornhill Hill, in the parish of Clyffe Pypard, in 1836. Ancient iron key found on Holborow Castle in 1832. Ancient brass seal found in 1853 on the site of Bradenstoke Abbey, and figured in " Wilts Magazine," ii. p. 387. Also several other ancient seals, bearing the arms, &c. of the Goddard family. Curious silver watch, temp. James I., ancient silver and brass spoons, &c. The Museum. 257 By Rev. E. B. Waeeen, Marlborough ; — Two quarto volumes belonging to St. Mary's Library; viz. " Horce Beatis- simce Virginia 3Iarice, tyc, ad legitimum Sarisburiensis Ecclesice ritum" a.d. 1535 ; and " Manual?, (or Book of Offices) ad usum insignis Ecclesice Sar;" imprinted at Paris, by Anthony Verard, and probably of about the same date. The former volume contains many curious specimens of early wood engrav- ings. By F. A. Caeeington, Esq., Recorder of Wokingham, Ogbourne St. George: — A very large and miscellaneous collection of Antiquities, including an iron "brank," or "bridle" used for the punishment of scolds, from the time of Charles I. to that of Q,ucen Anne. Cavalry and Infantry Officer's, and Pike- man's helmets, gauntlets, &c, of the time of the Civil Wars. German, Rus- sian, Chinese, Circassian, and Indian weapons, of various kinds. Sword of John Banning, Esq., M.A., of Burbage, temp. Charles I. Sword of the Marlborough Cavalry 1794. Girdle Purse of the time of Queen Elizabeth. Exchequer Tally. Drawings of ancient Tobacco pipes (some manufactured by Gauntlett of Amesbury) found at Ogbourne St. George. A series of im- pressions from Wiltshire Brasses, and Monumental Slabs, enumerated in Vol. ii. p. 14. By Thomas B. Meeriman, Esq., Marlborough :— Model of the Cromlech in Clatford bottom. Small Roman or Romano- British Urn, found at Beckhampton. Six Roundels, or fruit trenchers. En- graving of the Tottenham Park Horn from Vol. iii. of the Archteologia. Painting of the old House at Tottenham. * Wasp's Nest (species apparently " Vespa Norwegica") from a fir tree in Savernake Forest. *Impressions, in Gutta Percha, from the Common Seals of Marlborough, and Great Bedwyn. Helmet, Breast and Back Plates, Gorget, Sword (with Toledo blade), and Sword sling of Sir William Davy, of Mildenhall. Ring Dial. * Chalk fossils from the neighbourhood of Marlborough, including specimens of Lima spinosa, tooth of Oxyrhina, Terebratula carnea, serpula on ananchytes, and Micraster cor-anguinum. By the Matoe and Corporation of Marlborough : — Remains of the Marlborough Pillory, preserved in the Town-Hall. By Rev. T. W. Dowding, Preshute : — Ancient knife and pipe, the former found under the font, and the latter under the chancel walls of Preshute Church during a restoration in 1853 ; also specimens of the material of Preshute Font. By Miss Applefoed, Ogbourne St. George : — Egg shaped watch, made by Grinkin of London, circa 1630, formerly the property of John Brunsden, Esq., of Ogbourne, who was fined by the Parlia- ment for his loyalty to Charles I. Alms bag, date 1632. Cribbage board, with legend, temp. Charles II. Shoes, &c. of the last century. By R. E. Peice, Esq., Marlborough: — Sevres vase. Malachites from South Australia. Household god, bronze jug, and glass oil bottle, from Pompeii. Chinese joss, teapot, and Prayer book to the Goddess of Mercy, &c, &c. By De. Someeset, Curious carved wooden chair of the 17th century, with drawer beneath the 258 The Museum. seat. Chinese shoe. Australian shield, boomerang, spear, instrument for throwing spear, waddie, &c. By Henry Fox Talbot, Esq., Lacoch Abbey : — * Ten specimens of Engraving by Photography, including views of The Tuileries at Paris ; Statue of Charles IY. at Prague ; Chamber of Deputies, Madrid ; Great Bell of Moscow ; Doorway of San Gregorio, Valladolid ; Bird's eye view of Paris ; Cascade in the Tyrol ; Sea view on the English Coast, &c. By Rev. T. F. Ravenshaw, Pewsey * Twelve Stereoscopic views, including Amesbury, Pewsey, and Wootton Rivers Churches, Stonehenge, &c. By John Thuknam, Esq., M.D., F.S.A., Devizes: — Fossil Sponges and Shells from the Upper Green Sand near the Wilts County Asylum. Model of the large trilith at Stonehenge, showing the mor- tises and tenons. Ancient British skull from a barrow on Morgan's Hill. Small earthen cup from a barrow at Wansdyke ; also several cards of flint, bone , ivory, and jet objects from barrows in the neighbourhood of Marlborough. By W. Baetlett, Esq., Burbage :— Three ancient horse-shoes found near Silbury Hill ; accompanied by a printed description from Mr. Bracy Clark's work on shoeing horses, in which two of the examples are represented in a lithographic plate. [Mr. Clark con- siders them to be the oldest known specimens, and to have belonged possibly to' the same horse, although not found together. The close resemblance in their peculiar formation, shows beyond doubt that they are of the same period; and from the appearance of the shoes, with the nails in them, Mr. Clark conjec- tures that the horse was buried with the shoes on its hoofs. No bones of the horse are said to have been seen, but a human skeleton lay near the spot where one of the shoes was found.] An ivory carving of the Yirgin and Child, about ten inches in height, found at Martin, in the parish of Great Bedwyn. [This probably belonged to the ancient chapel of St. Martin, some other relics from the site of which were also exhibited by Mr. Selfe. The top of the head, in the effigy of the Virgin, is flat, and has a hole or socket, by means of which a small moveable crown (perhaps of silver) seems to have been attached.] A collection of Chalk Fossils from the neighbourhood of Burbage, with specimens of fossil "wood, and horns of Cervus elathas, from the same locality ; and fossil ivory from Shalbourn. Tomtit's nest and eggs found embedded in a large elm tree at Burbage. An iron weapon or gisarme, and two ancient spurs and rowel. Also, a small but interesting collection of English coins, including many gold pieces, some of early date. Exchequer Tally. Gold ring, with initials I. H. and a true lover's knot, found at Frox- field. A landscape, composed of lichens and mosses from the neighbourhood, by Miss Wride of Froxfield. By Rev. J. H. Austen, Embury, Dorset: — * Specimens of "Kimmeridge Coal Money," found in Dorsetshire. By J. Iveson, Esq., Marlborough : — Preserved heads of Red and Fallow Deer, from Savernake Forest. By J. Ttjknbtjll, Esq., Durley : — Specimens of fifteen varieties of Ferns, from Savernake Forest and neigh- bourhood . By Rev. E. Wilton, West Lavington : — Stone celt from the Shannon. Bronze ring with the initial found at The Museum. 259 Little Cheverel. Gold ring, with opal stone, bearing the motto "ij* je • svis • Hicr • en • liev ■ d* " found at Goatacre. Siege piece of Charles I. found on Imber Down. Several varieties of libulse, two bronze celts (one of an unusual type), and one of a pair of hawk's varvels, with inscription, from "West La- vington Downs. Impression from bell metal seal of John Wykes, found at Littleton. Metal spoon found in digging for the foundation of the New Corn Exchange, Devizes. By T. Beuges Flower, Esq., Bath : — Two folio volumes containing a complete series of British Grasses and Ferns. By John Halcomb, Esq., Hung erf or d : — John of Gaunt's Bugle Horns, belonging to the Town of Hungerford. The more ancient one, which is in a mutilated condition, bears an almost oblite- rated inscription in black letter; the words "actel" or "astel," and " — gur- ford" only remaining (according to Lysons) : the other is inscribed thus : — "IOHN ' A • GAVN * DID ' GIVE * AND * GEANT ' THE * RIALL * PISHING * TO ' HVN- GERFORD ' TOWNE 1 FROM ' ELDREN * STVB ' TO * IRISH ' STIL ' EXEPTING • SOM . SEVERAL ' MIL • P0VND 1 IEHOSAPHAT " LVCVS ' WAS * CVNSTABL ■ 1634." Charters of Edward IV. and Henry VI. to the Town of Hungerford, with Great Seal attached; also the Common Seal of the Borough of Hungerford. An elegant silver basket, supposed to be of an almost unique style of work- manship; date 1692. By H. Selfe, Esq., Martin: — Portions of lead, quarries of stained glass, nails, key, knives, spoon, and other relics, found in digging on the site of the ancient chapel of St. Martin, at Martin, in the parish of Great Bedwyn. By Rev. G. Stallard, East Grafton : — A thick volume containing a series of engravings, lithographs, and original drawings, chiefly of Wiltshire Churches, and their details. Specimens of En- caustic Tile from the chapel of St. Nicholas, East Grafton. By the Mayor of Wootton Basset: — Remains of the Wootton Basset Cucking Stool, bearing the date of 1668. This vehicle in its perfect state is figured in "Wilts Magazine," i. p. 68. By Mr. C. Mat, Marlborough : — An interesting series of objects from the collection of the late J. Stoughton Money, Esq., F.S.A.; among which the following are particularly worthy of notice, as relating to the county of Wilts : — Portion of leather in which a skeleton, found some years since at Bradenstoke Abbey, was enveloped. [The discovery of this early interment is mentioned in Bowles and Nichols's " An- nals, &c. of Lacock Abbey," p. 33.] Roman and other coins found, in 1849, in a held, called Boxbury, in the parish of Yatesbury. Quarry of stained glass, bearing the arms of Fettiplace, from a window in the Old Parsonage House at Yatesbury. Encaustic Tiles found on the site of Bradenstoke and Stanleigh Abbeys, and in the churchyard at Yatesbury. Fragments of a coffin formerly suspended from the roof of Heddington church, and mentioned in Britton's Wiltshire volume of the Beauties of England and Wales. Por- tion of Saurian Ware, Fibula, &c. from the supposed site of the Roman Sta- tion Verlucio, near Wans House. Two large saucer shaped Anglo-Saxon fibulje of copper gilt, amber beads, pin, &c. found with a skeleton near Mil- denhall, in 1827. Arrow head of bronze from a barrow near Charlton, Don- 260 The Museum. head, Wilts, opened in 1832. Flint implements, two coins, and fragments' J of iron, from a tumulus near Devizes, opened in 1840. Spur from Roundway Down. Portion of a Tessellated Pavement, together with numerous bone pins, fibula, glass, pottery, &c., from a Roman Yilla, near the site of OldBromham House, excavated by J. Stoughton Money, Esq. in 1840. [Two Roman Sepul- chral Urns, presented to the Museum of the Society by the Rev. A. C. Smith, Rector of Yatesbmy, (see " Wilts Magazine," i. p. 60.) were also discovered at the same time.] By Mr. Samuel Dodd, Kentish Town Road, London — An original Warrant of Edward I. bearing date May 1, 1302, addressed to the bailiffs and burgesses of the town of Bonnegarde, and issued from Devizes Castle. A somewhat mutilated impression of the Great Seal is appended. By Me. Cunnington, F.Gr.S., Devizes : — Four cases containing selected specimens of Fossil Sponges, from the Chalk flint, ammonites and other fossils from the Chalk Marl of North Wilts. Iron card or comb for carding wool or flax. Roman ampulla, scorise of iron, nails, coal, fragments of pottery, including Mortaria, &c, red tile, and specimens of building stone, found on the site of a Roman Station near Baydon. Draw- ing in water colours of Avebury restored, by George Cattermole. By Mr. B. J. Wilkes, Manor Farm, Baydon : — Ampulla, and other specimens of Roman ware, bronze fibulae, coins of Con- stantine, Magnentius, &c, scoriae of iron, and quern found lying on a human skeleton, on the site of a Roman Station at Baydon. Piece of Tapestry, about 15 inches by 12, representing the Creation, and apparently of about the time of Q-ueen Elizabeth. By the Rt. Hon. Lord Craven, Ashdown Park ; — Roman coins from the Station at Baydon ; and a rude hatchet- shaped wea- pon of iron, found near Ashdown House. By Mr. Edw. Kite, Devizes : — ' Model of Preshute Font. Warrant of Alienation of the Manor of Chiseldon, temp. James I., with Great Seal appended. Memorandum of the Covrt of Quarter Sessions held at New Sarum 15th Jany. 1649, respecting an allow- ance of £60 4s. 6d. to Daniel Drake, keeper of the Gaol at Fisherton Anger, for maintenance of prisoners during the Commonwealth. By Mr. W. F. Parsons, Wootton Basset : — Piece of ancient Tapestry, formerly in an old mansion at Greenhill, in the parish of Wootton Basset. By Mrs. Parsons, Wootton Basset : — Large oil Painting of the ancient Palace at Richmond. By Mr. James Brown, Salisbury: — Portion of a bronze dagger (Roman) found at Upton Scudamore ; also an iron article resembling in form a human foot (use unknown), found at Old Sarum. By Mr. T. Kemm, Avebury: — A collection of Butterflies, Moths, &c. By Mr. N. K. Wentworth, Beckhampton : — Two Roman coins (one a silver coin of Valentinianus) found near Silbury Hill. By M r. W. Baverstock, Marlborough : — Case of Butterflies and Moths from the neighbourhood of Marlborough. A number of objects were also contributed from the Museum at Devizes. 261 By the Rev. John Ward, M.A., Rector of Wath, Co. York. 1. Account of the Parish and Church. H| ^"HE small market town of Great Bedwyn is situated in the ? &m ^-undred °f Kinwardstone, about two miles south of the great road from London to Bath, between the towns of Hungerford and Marlborough. By an Act of Her Majesty in Council, a.d. 1847, it is now comprised in the Deanery of Marlborough, the Archdeaconry of Wilts, and the Diocese of Salisbury : but formerly the archidiaconal jurisdiction was vested in the Prebendaries of Bedwyn, and the episcopal jurisdiction in the Deans of Salisbury. The Anglo Saxon name was " Bedan-heafod," sc. Graves' Head. Aubrey's and Stukeley's suggestions, the one that it is derived from the Celtic, bed, grave, and gwyn, white : the other, that it was the Leucomagus of the Romans, are not sustained by any authority. The indications of a Roman station are still visible to the south of the town in a wood now called Bedwyn Brail, but in former times " Bruell' de Bedwynde," Bruell' being a contraction of Bruel- letus, a small coppice or little wood. A small castrametation sur- rounding about two acres of land was the centre of the station, and still contains a large quantity of bricks, tesserae, and many other evidences of Roman habitation. It was situated about half a mile east of the Roman road, which connected Winchester with Marlborough, Cirencester, and other large towns to the north; and between the station and the road were discovered, about 80 years ago, the remains of a villa, with valuable specimens of tessellated pavement, foundations of brick-work, and a massive lead cistern, which were all unfortunately destroyed. In 1853 several pavements were discovered near the same spot ; one was of coarse tesserae in a chequered pattern of red and white, and the others were of more elaborate designs. Drawings1 of them were fortunately taken at 1 They are in the possession of the Rev. W. C. Lukis. R 262 Great Bedwyn. the time, for they have since been destroyed by idle boys. Bronze articles, earthenware vessels of numberless patterns, implements of iron, nails, Roman coins, glass, &c, were also met with, as well as a small gold ring, on which is engraved a cross, and which from its size belonged to a lady. These articles are in the Society's Mu- seum. Another villa, about a mile and a half to the north-west of the station, existed in Tottenham Park, a short distance from the mansion, and its pavement was exposed to view on the occasion- of the Society's Meeting in Marlborough in September, 1859. But though undoubtedly an ancient town, and once of consider- able importance, the history of Bedwyn is involved in obscurity. Prior to the Conquest we only find it mentioned once in the Saxon Chronicle, as having been the scene of a sanguinary and undecided conflict in a.d. 674, between Wulphere, King of Mercia, and Es- cuin, King of Wessex. At that period it is supposed to have been the chief post of Cissa, Viceroy of the Counties of Wilts and Berks under Escuin : whose stronghold was the adjoining fortification of Chisbury, to which he gave his name, and probably added very greatly to its strength. The Camp at Chisbury contains an area of fifteen acres, doubly, and in some places, trebly embanked, the acclivities being verj' steep and high. A section of these mounds, made by Sir Richard Hoare, proved that they had been very con- siderably increased in height, as the turf covering of a former em- bankment was exposed, fifteen feet below the present surface. This addition, however, may have been made by the Danes. - In Domesday, the tax-book of William the Conqueror, completed in the last year of his reign, we find that the king held Bedvynde, and that it had been previously held by Edward the Confessor ; also, that Bristoardus, a priest, held the Church of Bedvynde, hav- ing succeeded his father, who had held it before the Conquest. The town was obliged to provide one night's entertainment1 for 1 On Sunday, the 17th of February, 1442-3, the King's Chamberlain and Secretary supped at Bedwind on pullets, capons, and wine, which were fur- nished by the parish. They also dined there on the 18th. The king- (Homy VI.) was himself at Bedwyn on the 12th of the preceding June; and King John was in the town December 3rd, 1200, on his way from Abingdon to Ludgershall Castle. By the Rev. J. Ward. 263 the king's household, with all usual customs. There were twenty- five burgesses belonging to this Manor. The Lordship of Bedwyn was subsequently granted by Henry II. to J ohn Mareschal, who held the office of marshal to the king. His eldest son John was confirmed in this office, and in the lands which he held of the Crown, but dying issueless, his brother Wil- liam Mareschal, Earl of Pembroke, succeeded as his heir. Isabel, one of the earl's daughters, carried his Wiltshire estate into the De Clare family, Earls of Gloucester and Hertford. From them it passed by marriage to Hugh de Audley, second husband of Mar- garet, sister and co-heir to Gilbert de Clare, the last earl of that name. Hugh de Audley was created Earl of Gloucester, and died without male issue in a.d. 1347 ; but his daughter and heir carried his possessions into the family of Ealph de Stafford, Baron, and afterwards Earl of Stafford, and they continued in this family un- til the death of Henry de Stafford, second Duke of Buckingham, who was beheaded at Salisbury, in a.d. 1483. Thus Bedwyn passed again into the possession of the Crown, but was immediately be- stowed by Richard III., with many other estates, upon John Howard, Duke of Norfolk. This nobleman was slain, two years afterwards, at the battle of Bosworth, and being attainted, Bedwyn once more reverted to the Crown. It is not known whether, on the restoration of Thomas, son and heir of John, Duke of Norfolk, this lordship was again conferred upon the Howards; but it is believed that it remained in the Crown until granted by Henry VIII. to his brother-in-law, Sir Edward Seymour, created Viscount Beauchamp, of Hache, a.d. 1536, Earl of Hertford a.d. 1537, and Duke of Somerset a.d. 1547. On the premature death of William,, third Duke of Somerset, under age, a.d. 1671, many of his posses- sions devolved upon his sister, Lady Elizabeth Seymour. On the death of Francis, fifth Duke of Somerset, without issue, a.d. 1678, she inherited other estates in this parish and neighbourhood, as right heir to her uncle, John, the fourth Duke, who, by his will, had devised them, first to Francis and his heirs male, and afterwards to his own right heirs. She married 21st August, 1676, Thomas Lord Bruce, who became third Earl of Elgin and second Earl of r 2 264 Great Bedwyn. Ailesbury ; and in this family the estates have continued to the present day, being now vested in George William Frederick, Mar- quis of Ailesbury, the noble owner of Tottenham Park in this parish. The former mansion of the Seymours was at Wolf hall, the TJlfela of Domesda}'. Before the Seymours it was the seat of the Esturmys, who held lands in this immediate vicinity at the Conquest, and were Wardens of Savernake Forest for many generations, till all their possessions passed through females into other hands in the fifth year of the reign of Henry VI. Maud Esturmy, co-heir of Sir William Esturmy, having married Roger Seymour, brought all his lands in this parish and in Burbage into that family. The Sey- mours, also, had the wardenship of Savernake Forest continued to them by the Grown. The old house at Wolf hall was partially destroyed about the year 1662, and nothing remains now but "The Laundry" and an ancient barn, in which, it is said, the feast was kept on the mar- riage of Henry VIII. with Jane Seymour. William, second' Duke of Somerset, commenced the building of a new mansion at Totten- ham. He also laid out a princely place, and planted many trees, but neither he nor his grandson, the third Duke, lived to see the completion of their plans. The present house was enlarged under the eye of the celebrated Earl of Burlington; but was entirely re- modelled by the late Marquis of Ailesbury, who added many noble rooms to the former building. Among the curiosities at Tottenham Park are three ancient swords, about one of which there is no certain information. The others are both Andrea Ferraras. One of them belonged to Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, the arms of which country are repeated six or eight times on the hilt; the other was the sword of the Black Douglas. The hilt is inlaid with silver, and bears the cog- nizance of the Douglas. The blade, which seems to have been used with effect, records the service in which it was engaged, in the following couplets, engraved one on each side : — " This is the sword that once was worn By the Black Douglas at Bannockburn." i I | ] ] 1 \ i f ! t 1 I ( t I I I t 1 I I I f 1 3 i a t s \ \ i By the Rev. J. Ward. 265 ' ' At Bannockburn I served the Bruce Whereof the English made little use." — Anno 1314. There is also a magnificent hunting horn of ivory, with mount- ings in enamelled silver, which has descended to the Bruce family from the Esturmys through the Seymours. The possession of this horn is said to be the title by which the wardenship of Savernake Forest is held under a charter, granted 23rd July, 1 Edward VI., to Edward, Duke of Somerset. The horn (See Plate), is about two feet long, and the diameter across the largest end is five inches and a half. The thickness of the ivory at this end is about an inch, and it is covered by a plate of silver, polygonal at the circumference, but with a circular opening in the centre. It is divided into sixteen compart- ments (corresponding with the polygon) by uprights diverging from the centre, and connected at the top by trefoiled arches ; in each compartment is the figure of a hawk upon a diapered ground, each bird being in a different attitude. The band round the large end of the horn, which is attached to the edge of the above plate, is two inches and a half wide ; this also is divided into sixteen com- partments by uprights resembling hunting spears. The three centre compartments have each three trefoiled arches set level, like a corbel table, under the rim of the band. In the middle is the figure of a crowned king sitting on a throne, holding up his right hand, and bearing the sceptre in the left. In the compart- ment on his right, sits a bishop, habited in his episcopal dress and mitre, holding up his left hand, and having a book in his right. In the compartment on the king's left hand is a huntsman, intended perhaps to represent the warden of the forest. He is blowing a horn, has a sword in his left hand, and a belt over his left shoulder. The other thirteen compartments are somewhat different from those in the centre, having a series of plain segmental arches running along the top, instead of the trefoiled arches. They contain represen- tations of a lion, a fox, a rabbit, a doe, an unicorn, two stags, and six hounds of different descriptions. Behind the animals are trees of various kinds, and all the back grounds are diapered. A second band is set about an inch from the first ; it is two inches broad, and has sixteen compartments similar to the thirteen mentioned 266 Great Bedwyn. above. A ring occupies the upper compartment, and the rest are filled, as before, with hounds and beasts of venery, the lion and unicorn being omitted, and a squirrel added. A third band of the same breadth as the last, and similarly divided, carries the second ring for the belt. Only hounds and deer are represented in these compartments, accompanied by the huntsman and a person on horseback. The mouth -piece is also of silver, with diaper work between the edgings. The belt, which could not have belonged originally to this horn, is a flat band of green worsted weft, mounted with en- amelled silver medallions and other ornaments. The two ends of the belt are attached to the horn by rings set on to flat pieces of silver, which are fastened to the worsted band; on one of them is the figure of a stag couchant, and on the other, a coat of arms bearing Argent, three lozenges within a double tressure, flory and counter -fiery, Gules, with two birds as supporters.1 The two ends of the belt are joined, at no great distance from the horn, by a curiously shaped ornament, connected on each side by hinges, to a medallion on the centre of the band. This ornament resembles in shape and form a rather flat dos d' ane, only it is shorter, and the wide end is round. In the triangular figure formed by this round end and the lines running up from the extremities to the point of the ridge, is a lion couchant; in the triangle at the opposite end is a butterfly. The two sides of the dos d' ane are filled with a lozenge, containing the figure of a heron ; and four smaller tri- angles are filled with three leaves. The arms, as above, are repeated on fourteen medallions, set at equal distances on the belt : between the medallions are silver bars across the belt, with a hole in the centre to receive the tongue of the buckle. There is also at Tottenham Park a magnificently illuminated pedigree of the Seymour family, bringing their genealogy down to 1 These arms, which, are on the belt, not on the horn itself, seem to he those of Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, the Brace's nephew, who hore, Or, three lozenges (not cushions, says Mr. Laing, Scottish Seals, Nos. 689, 090,) within a double tressure ilory counter-flory Gules. There is an engraving with somo account of this horn in Archaoologia, vol. iii. p. 28. [-Ed.] By the Rev. J. Ward. 267 the beginning of the seventeenth century. It is about six feet wide and twenty- three feet long, containing many miniature por- traits, blazonings of arms, fac-similes of seals, deeds, grants, &c, and an elaborate drawing of the celebrated horn just described. The Ecclesiastical History of Bedwyn, which comes next to be noticed, is made up of scanty materials collected at various times, as sources of information have sprung up. A church existed here, as we have seen, as early as Edward the Confessor's time; and it is supposed that the Prebend of Bedwyn was founded in the Cathedral of Old Sarum, at the time of the consecration of that building on the 5th of April, 1092, when the episcopal see was re- moved from Sherborne by Bishop Herman. It certainly existed prior to the foundation of the present Cathedral in a.d. 1220. This prebend was dissolved, with some others in New Sarum, by Henry VIII., and its possessions subsequently granted to the Duke of Somerset, who, with his successors, continued to exercise the privilege of the prebendary's archidiaconal jurisdiction (through the medium of an official) down to the year 1847, when all peculiar ju- risdiction was abolished within the limits of the Diocese of Sarum. Of the ancient ecclesiastical prebendaries, the names of only five have been preserved, viz., Richard de Dynteworth, instituted in 1337: John de Gudwell, also of the time of Edward III. ; Nicholas Wickham, who, in a.d. 1405, visited the church of Bedwyn parva; Thomas Beckington, secretary and formerly tutor to Henry VI., and afterwards the munificent Bishop of Bath and Wells; a*nd Peter Vann, in a.d. 1534, who afterwards became Dean of Sarum. The Originalia Rolls in the Exchequer state that John de Gud- well made a fine with the king (Edward III.) for 40s., to have the restoration of certain liberties which had formerly been seised into the king's hands; and, in a.d. 1340, he was allowed cognizance of pleas in his court of Bedwyn, which had jurisdiction also in the parish of Collingbourne Comitis, afterwards Collingbourne Ducis. The vicarage of the church has always been, unless by lapse, in the patronage of the prebendaries, which is now. exercised by the Marquis of Ailesbury. Its revenues in the year 1341 amounted to £8 6s. 8d. In a.d. 1534, it was worth by the year clear £8 10s. 8d. ; but in 1810, it had increased to about £90. Some 268 Great Bedwyn. exertions were made about that time to raise the income upon a fresh valuation, and the result eventually placed the yearly sum of £154 2s. HJd. at the disposal of the vicar. This sum was com- muted, in the year 1850, for £212. The vicarage has also been augmented from private benefaction, from the Parliamentary Grant Fund, and from Queen Anne's Bounty. The glebe, includ- ing the church -yard, is about two acres. The succession of vicars, prior to the year 1548, is not preserved either in the Registry of the Deans of Salisbury, or in the First Fruits Office in London. Mr. Soger Derby was, however, vicar in 1405, and Thomas Dogeson died vicar in 1500 or 1501. Richard Yonge is mentioned as vicar in the Ecclesiastical Survey (26 Henry VIII.) Joseph Smith preceded William Wingfield, the first vicar enrolled in the Dean's Registers as having been instituted in a.d. 1 564. Patron, Thomas Blagrave, Esquire, as tem- porary Lessee of the great Tythes. Henry Shawe succeeded on Wingfield's resignation in 1573. Patron, Sir Edward Seymour, Knt. Henry Shawe, in 1574. Patron, Qneen Elizabeth. Richard Bay lie, not mentioned in the Dean's Registers, is repeatedly styled vicar in the Registers of the parish between the years 1576 and 1582, when he was buried. Roger Glass, instituted in 1581, the year before Baylie's death. Patron, the Earl of Hertford. Adam Noyes, in 1595, on the resignation of Glass. Patron, Queen Elizabeth. Henry Tayler, in 1598. Patron, the Earl of Hertford. William Slatyer, in 1611. Patron, James I., by lapse. Joshua Slatyer, in 1616. Henry Tayler, in 1617. Patron, the Earl of Hertford. Richard Plummer, in 1627. The same Patron. Richard Plummer was buried 27 August, 1649. Solomon Renger is styled vicar in the Parish Registers in 1650, 51, and 53, but his name does not occur in the First Fruits Office or in the Dean's Register. He was buried 17 January, 1653-4. Robert Billings, in 1661. Patron, William, Duke of Somerset. Robert Randall, in 1668. The same Patron. Robert Randell died in 1679. William Meaden, in 1679. Patron not mentioned. Nicholas Andrews, in 1714, on Meaden's resignation. Patron, Charles, Baron Bruce of Whorlton. John Arnald, in 1733, on the deprivation of Andrews. The same Patron. Thomas Giffard, the younger, in 1736, on the resignation of Arnald. The same Patron. By the Rev. J. Ward. 269 Henry Howard, B.A., in 1739, on the cession of Giffard. The same Patron. William Loggon, M.A., in 1742, on the cession of Howard. The same Patron, then Earl of Ailesbury. Charles King, M.A., in 1748, on the resignation of Loggon. Patron, Thomas, Baron Bruce of Tottenham. William Harrison, D.D., in 1759, on the death of King. The same Patron. Henry Jenner, B.A., in 1768, on the cession of Harrison. The same Patron. He was elder brother of the celebrated Edward Jenner, M.D. Thomas Brown, B.D., in 1774, on the cession of Jenner. The same Patron. John Roberson, M.A., in 1784, on the cession of Brown. Patron, the Dean of Salisbury, by lapse. David Williams, in 1787, on the death of Roberson. Patron, Thomas, Earl of Ailesbury. Henry Williams, in 1789, on the cession of D. Williams. The same Patron. William Moore, in 1796, on the death of H. Williams. Patron the Dean of Sarum, by lapse. William Skey, B.A., in 1799, on the resignation of Moore. Patron, Thomas, Earl of Ailesbury. Henry Wilson, B.A., in 1814, on the cession of Skey. ' Patron, Charles, Earl of Ailesbury. James Hall, M.A., in 1822, on the cession of Wilson. Patron, Charles, Marquis of Ailesbury, K.T. John Ward, B.A., in 1826, on the cession of Hall. The same Patron. William Collings Lukis, M.A., in 1850, on the cession of Ward. The same Patron. John Dryden Hodgson, M.A., in 1855, on the cession of Lukis. The same Patron. During the incumbency of the Rev. John Ward, a new Church, with a District annexed, was built at East Grafton, the central hamlet of an extensive outlying portion of the parish. This build- ing, dedicated to St. Nicholas (the patron saint of a former chapel in this hamlet), and erected chiefly by the munificence of the late Marquis of Ailesbury and his son (then Earl Bruce,) is one of the most successful results of modern Church architecture.1 It is in the style of the early part of the 12th century, and consists of a fully developed chancel, terminated with a circular apse ; a well- proportioned nave with clere story and aisles; and at the north-west angle a plain tower pierced in the upper story with open arches, and covered with a low stone spire. The architect was Benjamin Ferr,ey, Esq. The site and endowment were given by the Marquis 1 See detailed account in Gent. Mag., July, 1844. 270 Great Bedwyn. of Ailesbury, who also built the parsonage. The first incumbent was the Rev. Henry Ward, M.A., who was instituted on the 11th of April, 1844, the day of the consecration of the Church. He resigned the incumbency on the 25th of November, 1845, and the Eev. William Collings Lukis, M.A., was instituted by the Dean of Salisbury, on the 19th of January following. The Rev. John Dry- den Hodgson, M.A., late Fellow of St. Peter's College, Cambridge, was instituted on the cession of Mr. Lukis, in 1850, and the Rev. George Stallard, M.A., on the cession of Mr. Hodgson in 1855. Bedwyn Parish formerly contained 14,098 acres of land, which still constitute the prebend. There were five Chapels of Ease to the mother Church, four of which have been ruined for several centuries. 1. At Grafton was St. Nicholas, which was presented to so lately as in a.d. 1579, and which stood in a field nearly opposite to the new Church. The foundations of this Chapel with debris of stained glass and pavement tiles, were dug up and removed in the year 1844. In plan it was a simple parallelogram, with two but- tresses at each angle, the interior dimensions having been 53 feet By the Rev. J. Ward. 271 long, by 17 feet 6 inches wide. An ancient Pax (of Laten gilt), which doubtless belonged to this Chapel, was found in 1846 by a labourer in levelling a hedge not far from the site of the Chapel, and was presented to the Society's Museum by the Rev. W. C. Lukis. It is probably of the date of Henry VII. or Henry VIII. (See Plate.) 2. At Chisbury, the Free Chapel of St. Martin, presented to in a.d. 1496, by the Bishop of Salisbury, by lapse. The building still re- mains, and is a very beautiful specimen of Decorated architecture. It is 52 feet 6 inches long, and 20 feet 2 inches wide in the interior, and at 18 feet 6 inches from the east end stood the screen which sepa- rated the chancel from the nave. It was endowed, as mentioned in the Inquisitions of Ninths made in the year 1341, with tythe then amounting by the year to 48s. 6d., and with ten acres of land worth 5s. 3. At Knowl was a Chapel, of which there is no known record, but parts of the building still remain. 4. At Little or East Bedwyn, the Chapel of St. Michael, which contains some portions of building older than any extant in the mother Church. It con- sists of a nave with clere story and aisles, a chancel, a south porch, and a tower and spire at the west end. The nave is 41 feet 3 inches long, and 12 feet 5 inches wide : the north aisle is 8 feet 2 inches wide, and the south aisle 9 feet 7 inches ; and the whole breadth of nave and aisles, including the piers, is 35 feet 2 inches. The chancel, including the rood arch, is 28 feet 4 inches long, and 16 feet 2 inches wide. The whole length, with the space under the tower, is 82 feet 7 inches. The nave is late Norman, having a range of piers and circular arches with billet moulding on the north side, and a range of pointed arches on the south side, supported on Norman piers. The rest of the Church is late perpendicular with square-headed windows, the chancel window at the east end being the only one that has an arch. There is a good piscina and a priest's door in the south wall of the chancel. The tower and spire are admirably proportioned, and rise to the height of about 70 feet. The Church has been very well restored during the last few years, and, in particular, the very beautiful Perpendicular roof over the north aisle has been thoroughly repaired. In or before the year 1405 the now Church at Little Bedwyn, with an area of 272 Great Bedwyn. 4234 acres, taken out of Great Bedwyn, was erected into a distinct vicarage, and endowed with a portion of the tythes of the prebend. The patronage is in the Marquis of Ailesbury, and the present in- cumbent is the Rev. Francis Henchman Buckerfield, M.A., who was instituted in a.d. 1843. 5. The remains of the fifth Chapel, recently discovered at Marten, will be described presently. Besides the town of Great Bedwyn, there #re, within its ecclesi- astical charge, the hamlets of Crofton, Stock, Bedwyn- common, Brail, and Harden. In East Grafton District, there are East and West Grafton, Wilton, Marten, Wexcombe, Kinwardstone, Sudden, Freewarren, and Wolfhall, with the Laundry. In the parish of Little Bedwyn, are the village of Little Bedwyn, and the hamlets of Chisbury, Knowl, Puthall, Littleworth, and Timbridge. Several of these are mentioned in Domesday-book, and almost all in the early records of the country. Stoche was held in the Confessor's time by Stremius, a name probably identical with Stur- mid, Sturmy, and Esturmy, which flourished in this parish for many centuries. Richard Sturmid held Haredone, and a hide in Graftone, in the Conqueror's reign ; Martone was held by Odolina, Tubertus, and Radulphus ; Graftone was the lordship of Wilelmus de Ow, and under him was Hubert. Robert, son of Radulphus, held lands there; so did Radulphus de Halville, who also held Ulfela (Wolfhall). After this period, the Sturmys continued in their possessions here down to the death of Sir William Esturmy, in a.d. 1426, when they passed to the Seymours, as before stated. Many other families of distinction were proprietors of manors and estates in the parish. The De Hardenes had the manor of Hardene^ till it went by an heiress to Sir Robert de Bilkemore. Matthew de Co- lumbariis died in a.d. 1269 possessed of Chisbury. Thomas de Seymour died seised of Chisbury in a.d. 1358, and it was soon after possessed by the Cobhams. On the death, in a.d. 1407, of John de Cobham, second Baron Cobham, his grand-daughter and sole heir, Joane de la Pole, succeeded to his estates. She was then the wife of Sir Nicholas Hawberke, having previously been married, first to Sir Robert Hemengbale, and, secondly, to Sir Reginald i£et>. & tftcdla.r