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SURVEY
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2010 with funding from
University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign
http://www.archive.org/details/windbreaksforill29davi
ae Oe. EZ DAV lS
1
ESX TENS: 4O-N
EV OURSEUS) TEER
ILLINOIS NATURAL,
)
HISTORY~SURVE YS
CIRCULAR 29
CIN CO-OPERATION WITH
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS - COLLEGE ¥
OF AGRICULTURE » AGRICULTURAL —~_
EXPERIMENT STATION AND
EXTENSION SERVICE IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME
COCONOAMICCO
STATE OF ILLINOIS
HENRY HORNER, Governor
WINDBREAKS
for
Illinois Farmsteads
J. E. DAVIS
Extension Forester
Printed by authority of the State of Illinois
Department of Registration and Education
NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY DIVISION
Theodore H. Frison, Chief
Circular 29 Urbana April 1938
STATE OF ILLINOIS
Henry Horner, Governor
DEPARTMENT OF REGISTRATION AND EDUCATION
}
Joun J. Hariran, Director
BOARD OF NATURAL RESOURCES AND CONSERVATION
Joun J. HaAtiinan, Chairman
Wi.itam TRELEASE, D.Sc., LL.D., Biology
Henry C. Cow res, Ph.D., D.Sc., Forestry
L. R. Howson, B.S.C.E., C.E., Engineering
Wicuitam A. Noyes, Ph.D., LL.D.,
Chem.D., D.Sc., Chemistry
Epson C. Bastin, Ph.D., Geology
ArtHur Cutts Witiarp, D.Eng., LL.D.,
President of the University of Illinois
NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY DIVISION
URBANA, ILLINOIS
Scientific and Technical Staff
THEoporE H. Frison, Ph.D., Chief
SECTION OF ECONOMIC ENTOMOLOGY
W. P. Fuint, B.S., Chief Entomologist
C. C. Compton, M.S., Associate Ento-
mologist
M. D. Farrar, Ph.D., Research Ento-
mologist
J. H. Biccer, B.S., Associate Ento-
mologist
S. C. Cuanpn er, ‘B.S., Southern Field
Entomologist
L. H. Suropsuire, M.S., Northern Field
Entomologist
W:. E. McCautey, M.S., Assistant
Entomologist
C. J. Weinman, M.A., Assistant Ento-
mologist
C. W. Kearns, Ph.D., Research Fellow
in Entomology
Dwicut Powe tt, M.S., Research Fellow
in Entomology
ArtHur E. RircuHeEr,
Fellow in Entomology
Research
Bi Aw
SECTION OF INSECT SURVEY
H. H. Ross, Ph.D., Systematic Ento-
mologist
Cart O. Monr, Ph.D., Associate.Ento-
mologist, Artist
B. D. Burks, Ph.D., Assistant Ento-
mologist
SECTION OF AQUATIC BIOLOGY
Davip H. Tuompson, Ph.D., Zoologist
Georc_E W. Bennett, M.A., Limnologist
D. F. Hansen, M.A., Assistant Zoologist
SECTION OF GAME RESEARCH AND
MANAGEMENT
R. E. Yeatrer, Ph.D., Game Specialist
W. H. Leicu, M.A., Assistant Zoologist
C. T. Brack, M.S., Research Fellow
SECTION OF WILDLIFE
EXPERIMENTAL AREAS
A. S. Hawkins, M.S., Game Technician
F. C. BetiroseE, Jr., B.S., Assistant
Game Technician
C. H. Mutter, Ph.D., Plant Ecologist
SECTION OF APPLIED BOTANY AND
PLANT PATHOLOGY
L. R. Tewon, Ph.D., Botanist ,
J. C. Carter, Ph.D., Assistant Botanist
G. H. Boewe, M.S., Field Botanist
SECTION OF FORESTRY
James E. Davis, M.F., Extension For-
ester
SECTION OF PUBLICATIONS
James S. Ayars, B.S., Editor
This paper is a contribution from the Section of Forestry
(50778 —4M—3-38)
Bo?
CONTENTS
Introduction
IN x6 AR ee ee eae he eat ey A, ee a 1
[BIGTA SIRIUS NA oN Aerie eee iia nie Praha Rah ern TA a re 1
Planning the Windbreak
SPSCLe SHO CES UO NU SCmemen ieee ce Nester cs tumaes heen 2
SigeranG, sources or Plamhinie Stock. (...05....me 5.2.5.4 0
Wocanine ine: Waindinneaikess i. etn ees sere poe otis foes 4
DISuameesenEOraly Suit Gites, Wauue ws )atus avs ee cictens ae 5
Nittimiocmon INowsrand) Spacing... 2055.0.6..22-- es 6
Planting the Windbreak
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12) le setbai Pt se ok eer as ie tg ree ee eel a age al
Care of the Windbreak
IPAROVESCLRONA eae mei ee et eer a ae ee ne ae a 12
CO Goletssiyyeea 100) fig Og a) Aaa i. ee ae a eye te ooh RR ae 12
SHIRE Motsl ope ee ep EN Pane ct Perera Mies esau alee een ek abe 12
IReplanting 1. . a hey Agar eae atane eas a Mng AS
Renewing Old Windbreaks. EN eh ce Seen a a Pe 13
DiscacesrcainGelnSe@hse sus. gchtae ae ee ae heed te ote 14
1S Se§ OVS CU CO Stag re A gag eee 15
What the Windbreak Trees Are Like
INI@iEVIHERYLSY OO (Co eee a ena ast 2a 2 ne ea ye 16
OX tor tos Ney Sela stits See a ot ere sen eR Ss, ce SLAM sob S Sz OTS, Rea 16
eral SGU COs mateo NG SSsun fo cae esteidily oriny « Segawa a Ses 16
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VAN tSod BAR ae peter gam eae a, el a pc ee Ree a Ae Be Pn bi
‘ST AGS FE Sie yd Batra (Se 2 ee OL eee ne oe 17
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RES CIE G Ie ot a eer ake te Re OR SR 18
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WIND
DIRECTION:
MAP
The arrows show the direction of the average prevailing wind during winter
months of a 10-year period, 1926-35, for 27 cities of Illinois.
WINDBREAKS, ._...
For Illinois Farmsteads Ealensian Forester*
INDBREAK, as commonly understood in Illinois, is
the name given to a narrow belt of trees planted around
a farmstead to provide protection from the wind.
Need.—-With almost constant northwest winds blowing
throughout the winter months (see map on opposite page) and
with only one-fifth of the original protective forest growth
remaining, there is serious need for protecting farmsteads from
winds in Illinois. This is particularly true in the sections of
intensive agriculture, where differences in elevation are not
sufficient to break the force of the wind and where most of the
tree growth has been cleared to make way for annual crops.
From 1870 to 1875 considerable interest in windbreak planting
was evidenced in the northern part of the state, and those
early plantings which were given good care and protection now
stand as landmarks, the better evergreen windbreaks having
reached heights of 60 feet.
The trees used in early windbreaks were mostly of Euro-
pean origin, and it was not always easy to obtain good planting
stock. Today, with both state and private tree nurseries pro-
ducing large quantities of the trees best suited for windbreak
planting, more farmsteads could be easily provided with wind
protection at very little cost.
Benefits.—The greatest benefit that can be expected from
a good windbreak is the sheltering effect on the farmhouse, the
farm buildings and the feed lots. A house protected by a wind-
break 1s more comfortable in winter, and less costly to heat.
On wash days, clothes can be hung in the protection of the
windbreak, without discomfort, when the biting winter winds
are howling down out of the north. Windbreak-protected barns
and feed sheds are warmer in winter and keep more nearly even
temperatures, so that livestock can be more easily carried over
winter in good condition. Livestock can also make more winter
use of protected feedlots; and for men working around feedlots
*STATE NATURAL History SurVEY and University of Illinois College of Agriculture. cooperating.
[1]
2 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
and barns the windbreak provides comfort in the zone of quiet
air to the leeward of its spreading branches.
With its contribution of beauty and color, as well as com-
fort, the windbreak can make a farm home out of a farmhouse.
Fig. 1.—Farmstead in southeastern Henry County, facing south. Upper: Note
protective strips of trees on north and west. Lower: Feed shed and feed lots of this
farmstead are well protected by a 28-year-old windbreak of Norway spruce.
Where the farmstead is protected by a windbreak, flowers,
shrubs and ornamental trees have a better chance to develop,
and beautification of the home grounds is more easily achieved.
Windbreaks catch winter snows, and prevent their blocking
walks and drives, and piling up around buildings. This snow
melts slowly in the spring under the shade of the trees and the
moisture is conserved for garden crops and small fruits planted
near the windbreak.
PLANNING THE WINDBREAK
Species of Trees to Use.— Evergreen trees provide the most
satisfactory windbreak because they hold their foliage during
the winter months when protection is most needed. The spruce
and fir form an almost solid barrier to the wind because of their
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 3
dense-branching habit and their tendency to hold heavy foliage
on branches close to the ground, if given plenty of growing
room. Of this group the Norway spruce, the Douglas fir and the
Black Hills spruce are best adapted to [Illinois conditions.
Pines make more rapid height growth than spruce or fir,
but their branching habit is more open and their foliage thinner,
so that they do not break the wind so completely. To attain
BARS
Fig. 2.—This farmstead in Jo Daviess County enjoys the protection of a 60-year
old Norway spruce windbreak.
height in a windbreak at an earlier date, pine may be used as a
center row between two outer rows of spruce or fir. Pine
should not be used alone, except on light sandy soils to which
the other trees are not adapted. Four pines—Norway pine,
white pine, shortleaf pine and pitch pine—may be used for
windbreaks. The shortleaf pine is a southern tree, native to
lower Illinois, and should be used only in the southern third of
the state. The other three may be used throughout I[llinois.
Another evergreen, the red cedar, 1s occasionally used for
windbreaks. It is rather short and comparatively slow growing,
but it has very dense foliage and 1s pleasing in appearance.
Size and Sources of Planting Stock.—Quicker results and
greater success can be expected from using fairly large planting
stock. Transplant trees at least four years old should be used.
These will vary from 12 to 20 inches in height of top and are
usually designated as 2-2 transplants, having been grown two
years in the seed bed and two years in transplant rows. Wind-
breaks generally require 150 to 250 trees, varying, of course,
with the length necessary to protect buildings and lots. (See
“Number of Rows and Spacing,’ page 6.) In purchasing
4 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
trees it is advisable to get at least 10 more than are actually
needed, so that some extra trees may be kept in the garden
and used to replace losses in the windbreak planting.
The majority of ornamental nurseries grow the types of
trees satisfactory for windbreaks, and some of the larger nurs-
eries specialize in producing windbreak trees. Pines may be
obtained from the State Department of Conservation at Spring-
field, Illinois, and spruce will probably be available by 1940.
Information on sources and prices of windbreak planting stock
may be had by writing to the Extension Forester, 213 New
Agriculture Building, University of Illinois, Urbana, Illinois.
Trees should be ordered early in the winter to assure
getting the desired trees before supplies run out.
Locating the Windbreak.—By the map facing page 1 it will
be seen that for nearly all of Illinois the prevailing winter wind is
from the northwest, and the windbreak, to give the best protec-
tion, should be located to the north and west of the farmstead.
Even in those few localities where the prevailing wind is south-
erly it is not advisable to place a windbreak to the south of the
farmstead, for even in these localities the coldest winds are
from the north and northwest. It must be remembered, also,
that the prevailing summer winds are southwest, and it is
desirous to have the farmstead exposed to the south to receive
the cooling effects of these winds. In localities where the pre-
vailing wind is south or southwest it is advisable to run the
north-south line of the windbreak at least 100 feet farther than
usual to the south of the farm buildings but the windbreak
should never be planted on the south side of the farmstead.
The most effective and most easily arranged windbreak is
in the form of an inverted L with the point to the northwest.
The legs of the L may be broken to make way for farm lanes,
but 1t should not be broken near the corner, where northwest
winds may sweep through directly to the buildings.
Figures 5 and 6 show windbreak plans for farmsteads fac-
ing the cardinal points of the compass. These plans are for
typical farmsteads found in Illinois, but are set up only as
guides for the prospective windbreak planter. Because of the
unlimited ways in which farm buildings are arranged, nearly
every farmstead presents a different problem in the planning of
the windbreak. If the principles recommended herein are follow-
ed in planning the windbreak it should be possible to provide
satisfactory protection for any type of farmstead arrangement.
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 5
Farmsteads facing south or east, fig. 5, are the easiest for
which to plan windbreaks. Those facing north or west, fig. 6,
present more difficult problems, because of the necessity for
completely shutting out the front outlook from the house, if
the best protection is to be had. Most Illinois farm homes are
Fig. 3.—A well-spaced windbreak in McLean county. Trees are Norway spruce
eight years old.
built so close to the road that there is not room enough to plant
a good solid windbreak across the front of the house to check
west or north winds. Usually it is necessary to sacrifice both
part of the efficiency of the windbreak and part of the outlook
and make the short leg of the L only a single row of trees ex-
tending whatever distance is desired across the front of the
property.
Where farmsteads face north or west, and it is not desired
to obstruct the view at all from the front of the house, the
windbreak can then take only the form of a straight line run-
ning along the west or north side of the farmstead.
Distances from Buildings.—Effective protection is afforded
by a good windbreak to a distance approximately eight times its
height. Thus a windbreak 40 feet high should almost com-
pletely check the wind for 320 feet to leeward, and buildings
and lots in this area should have adequate protection. Some in-
6 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
fluence of the windbreak may be felt at a distance up to 20 times
the height of the trees, but in this state it is best to keep princi-
pal buildings within the 300-foot area.
To avoid dead-air pockets around buildings in summer, or
piling of snow on buildings and walks in winter, the windbreak
should not be set within 50 feet of buildings, and 100 feet is
better if room is available. Where possible the end of the wind-
break should extend at least 50 feet past the line of the last
building to be protected. In localities where the prevailing
wind is southwest, the south end of the windbreak should be
extended at least 100 feet farther than usual.
Number of Rows and Spacing.—For the species of ever-
greens previously mentioned, the best type of windbreak con-
see sists of three rows
A A B B B
B Ay; n .
ght 105 ? 4 6 of trees, with the
12 = = 4 $ aS Oe :
se as pa a He ¥ , trees in the mid-
12
1 dle row alter-
+ ek ma ¥s #e ¥ s nated with those
j in the two out-
5 AS 4H ME 5 %e side rows, fig. 4.
The rows should
wayp sear ee
. S ? F
te Fig. 4.—Method of lay- De at least 1? feet
oy y ing out the rows in a wind- apart and the
; : :
‘ i break will require 150 trees. Do not be
we tempted to plant trees close together to form
a hedge, for evergreens need plenty of
5 i room and light to develop dense lower
1 branches, and the lower branches are
64+ 12’+- 12’ +b 64 needed to check surface winds when the
trees start making good height growth.
To avoid difficulties in laying out the corner of the wind-
break follow the plan shown in fig. 4. First stake out one strip
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 7
of the windbreak for its entire length, A. Then lay out the outer
row of the second strip, B, in line with the two last trees in the
outside rows of the first strip and at right angles to the rows.
Stake out this row beginning 12 feet from the last tree in the
inside row of the first strip. The middle row of the second strip
will then start 19 feet from the inside row of the first strip in
order to keep the proper alternate spacing.
PLANTING THE WINDBREAK
Preparation for Planting.—All plans for the windbreak
should be made in the fall, and the area should be marked out,
including a strip at least 6 feet wide outside of the outer rows
which will come between the fence and the trees. It is essential
to plow the windbreak area thoroughly in the fall and to follow
by disking and then by harrowing in the spring.
Since windbreaks are located to protect barns and lots
as well as houses, there may often be a drainage of barnyard
water across the windbreak area. Such drainage will kill out
evergreens in a short time and should be taken care of before
the trees are planted. The barnyard water may be carried
around the windbreak by a diversion ditch, or through it by
a ditch or tile. Diversion is better wherever possible.
It will be more convenient, and surer, to build necessary
fences around the windbreak area in the fall so that the fencing
will not be neglected later because of the rush of spring work.
Fencing must be adequate to keep out both stock and poultry,
and should be at least 6 feet from the rows of trees, fig. 4.
Only spring planting of windbreaks 1s recommended, so that
the trees may have the advantage of one growing season and
be in better position to survive the rigors of their first winter.
Fall-planted windbreaks may suffer heavy losses from frost
heaving, and one cannot afford to lose a large number of trees
of the size used for windbreak planting.
After the planting area has been well harrowed in the
spring, each row should be laid out, and the place for each tree
marked with a stake. Lath makes handy markers for this use.
It is important that the area be ready so that planting may be
done without delay as soon as the trees are received.
Handling the Trees.— Nurseries will ship trees at your re-
quest, and when your order is confirmed you should notify
the nursery of a shipping date which will bring you the trees
at a time when in your experience you know the ground will be
ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
Mey 2 i
ye eK PEED? LOa
aes |
ty K =e at
rer || 2
Se e | z
ie meas a
Ss =
pape COURT [ HOGS
ee
x
ee :
ed mea os |
ae @ 5 —
ate : ? S, COE
Nay,
COURT oY Lp ®
Q
es
Fig. 5.—Plan for windbreak for farmsteads facing (above) south; (below) east.
o
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS
FEED_ LOT
3
OQ
6
ares 63
OC | BB
POULT RY
FEED LOT
oe
- Fig. 6.—Plan for windbreak for farmsteads facing (above) west; (below) north.
BARN
ra)
oO
po]
z
—4—_—_—_—9-—_—_——_4-
HOGS
10 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
in good condition. The earlier in the spring the better. After
receiving notice of the shipping of your trees call your express
office daily so that you can get the trees as quickly as possible
after their arrival. Trees of the size you will get are not balled
with earth, but are usually tied in bunches and packed tightly
.
°
=
=
Fig. 7.—Method of heeling in trees.
in crates or burlap bundles with the roots in moist moss. The
moss is necessary to keep the tree roots moist, but if left very
long it will heat and may seriously damage the trees.
The trees should not only be taken from the express office
as soon as they arrive, but when taken to the farm they should
be immediately unpacked and heeled in. By heeling in is meant
the placing of the trees upright in a trench and the packing of
soil firmly around the roots to keep them moist, fig. 7. Make a
trench 10 to 12 inches deep and long enough to contain the
trees placed side by side in a single row. One side of the trench
should be straight and slightly sloping, and the soil that is
removed should be piled an the other side so it can be easily
thrown over the roots after trees are placed in the trench.
Before opening each bunch of trees it will be well to cut off any
long, straggling roots, as such root ends curled up in the bottom
of the planting hole or turned back toward the top cannot grow
properly. After pruning the straggling roots, open the bundles
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 11
and spread the trees along the straight side of the trench;
replace the soil and pack it about the roots of the trees.
Do not take the bundles of trees from the moist moss until
the trench is prepared. Care must be taken at all times to keep
the roots of the trees moist. Drying of the roots will kill them,
and it is improper handling of the trees that causes many
serious plantation losses. After heeling in the trees, water the
soil about the roots and keep it well watered until all trees are
planted. The trees should be heeled in in a shady place, or
should be shaded with boards or burlap set high enough off
the ground to allow free circulation of air around the trees.
The trees may be kept heeled in a week or 10 days, but best
results can be expected if they are planted in the windbreak
at once.
When being planted, the trees should be carried in a gal-
vanized bucket containing about two quarts of water. The
water will serve to keep the roots moist while being carried
along the rows. Trees should be taken from the bucket one
at a time, and a tree should not be removed until the hole for
it is prepared. These little trees should never be carried around
in the planter’s hand, for a few seconds of exposure will kill the
fine roots.
Planting.—The mattock, or grub-hoe, is the most conven-
ient tool to use for planting windbreak trees. A shovel or a spade
may also be used, since the soil will be well worked up and
easily handled.
The hole in which the tree is planted should be deep enough
and wide enough to accommodate the roots well spread out in
a natural position, and to allow the tree to be set at least as
deep as it grew in the nursery. Planting the tree up to a half
inch deeper than it grew 1n the nursery will do no harm, but it
should never be planted any shallower. In planting hold the
tree in an upright position and work the soil down in around the
roots. When the hole is filled, firm the soil with the feet and
place a little loose soil over the surface to check rapid drying.
When planting windbreak trees, watch out for these “‘don’ts”: Don’t
allow tree roots to become dried in handling. Don’t make the hole so shallow
that the roots will have to be curled up or bunched. Don’t set the tree in a
leaning position. Don’t set the tree more than a half inch deeper than it
grew in the nursery, and never any shallower. Don’t put dry soil, sod or
other debris in the bottom of the hole. Don’t leave loose soil around the
roots of the trees.
If the soil is dry, watering the trees immediately after
planting will give them a better chance to survive. Water the
12 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
soil thoroughly after packing it about the roots, and then place
some loose soil over the surface as a mulch.
CARE OF THE WINDBREAK
Protection.— Windbreaks, to be successful, must be pro-
tected from both stock and poultry throughout their entire
lives. To this end adequate fences should be built, even before
the trees are planted.
Animals pack the soil and injure tree roots; they browse
and trample the trees when small, and spoil the effectiveness of
larger trees by browsing the foliage and by breaking the lower
branches. Poultry scratch out the roots, pick the opening buds
in the spring, and when they roost in trees their droppings will
kill the branches. In some situations protection from rabbits
may also be necessary, but this is usually taken care of if the
fence is poultry-tight.
Cultivation.—Cultivation of the windbreak for at least the
first five years is essential. With the newly planted trees small
in size and with the rows 12 feet apart there is plenty of room
to plant a garden along with the windbreak, thereby making
more complete use of the land and assuring the trees of regular
cultivation. Any row crops are satisfactory, but vining crops
should be avoided. Where sweet corn or sunflowers are planted
between the trees, the stalks may be left standing over winter
to catch the snow. In cultivating, care should be taken not to
work directly around the trees, to avoid injuring the roots.
Remove weeds close to the trees by shallow hoeing.
Mulching.—In early fall a winter mulch of old straw (never
use manure or bedding straw) should be placed around the
trees to prevent frost heaving during the winter. Do not place
the straw actually against the trees, for this may invite mouse
injury. It should cover an area around the base of the trée at
least 2 feet in diameter. This mulch may be left to decay during
the summer, and replenished the next fall. Mulching should
be kept up until the lower branches of the trees cover the area
normally covered by the mulch.
Where interplanting of crops is not used, and straw will not
interfere with cultivation, the use of a summer mulch is ad-
vantageous. Old straw should be used as described above, but
it should be applied immediately after the trees are planted.
It will help the trees a great deal during the first year to use
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 13
both the summer mulch and cultivation of interplanted crops,
but some farmers object to the straw as interfering with the
handling of the garden crop.
Replanting.—The success of a windbreak depends on a solid
stand of trees being brought through to maturity. Each tree
missing from the original pattern cuts down the efficiency of
the windbreak, and lessens the tree planter’s reward for his
Fig. 8.—The fence is an important part of the windbreak. This Norway spruce
windbreak in McLean County has been protected from stock and poultry, and in
18 years has reached a height of 20 feet.
efforts in planting and caring for the trees. One cannot expect
every tree to live, and there are usually a few losses during the
first few years. This is why you have been advised to order
at least 10 more trees than you will actually need to plant the
windbreak. Set these trees about 3 feet apart in a row in the
garden, and care for them as you do the windbreak. From here
use them to replace trees which die out in the windbreak. There
should be no further losses in the windbreak after five years,
and any remaining replacement trees may be used for ornamen-
tal planting about the grounds.
Renewing Old Windbreaks.—Evergreen trees, like other
living plants, will not live forever, and the time must be ex-
pected when the trees in the windbreak will start dying out.
Then the windbreak will begin to lose its effectiveness. Many
of the old windbreaks planted in northern Illinois in the 1860's
and ’70’s have served well for many decades but are now be-
coming thin and ineffective as is shown clearly in fig. 10. The
life span of the evergreens is usually longer in northern Illinois
than in the southern or central parts of the state, and on the
grand prairie their life span is shortest. The windbreaks planted
14 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
today, however, should last much longer than the old wind-
breaks have lasted since in the early plantings the trees were
invariably set too close together and their greatest loss has been
due to overcrowding.
As soon as an old windbreak starts thinning out, steps
should be taken to get new trees established so that these new
trees will be tall enough to be effective by the time the old trees
have to be removed. The best plan is to start two new rows of
trees outside of the old windbreak as was done in the case shown
in fig. 9. When the old trees finally have to be cut, a third row of
new trees may then be set where the old windbreak originally
stood. If it is desired to work the windbreak in closer to the
farmstead, the first two rows of new trees can be set to the
inside of the old windbreak rather than to the outside. Never
plant new trees among the old ones, for the evergreens need
full light for their development and would be quickly killed by
the shade from the old trees.
Diseases and Insects.—The trees in the windbreak should
be watched for symptoms of injury by disease or insects, for
such injury may seriously retard the growth of the trees, or
even kill out some of them. At present there are no pests which
Fig. 9..-Two new rows of Norway spruce planted to supplement an old wind-
break that is thinning out.
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 15
Fig. 10.—A Norway spruce windbreak, 65 years old and beginning to thin out,
badly in need of supplemental planting.
have become serious 1n Illinois on the trees recommended for
windbreak planting, with the exception of the tip moth which
attacks shortleaf pine and pitch pine. The spread of this pest
is being rapidly controlled.
It is advisable to look over the trees occasionally and when-
ever any symptoms of disease or insect injury appear immediate-
ly send specimens of the injured branches to the Extension
Forester, at Urbana, for identification and recommendations
for control measures. Quick action may save considerable loss.
Expectations.—Some persons feel that evergreens make slow
growth, and that they would rather plant trees which make a
showing more quickly. In truth, the trees which are considered
fast growing are weak, subject to ice and wind damage, and
do not make at all satisfactory windbreaks. After all, trees
adapted to this climate are all comparatively slow growing,
and there is a tendency among those not well acquainted with
trees to expect too much of them.
Patience in caring for an evergreen windbreak will be well
rewarded, for its protective influence will last several gener-
ations. Evergreen windbreaks planted in northern Illinois
65 years ago now stand 60 to 70 feet high, and have been
affording good protection for more than 45 years. A Norway
spruce windbreak planted 18 years ago in the southeast corner
of Hamilton County has reached a height of 30 feet. Its branches
form an almost impenetrable barrier to the wind. Another
Norway spruce windbreak planted 12 years ago near Greenville
in Bond County averages 18 feet in height. Any of the wind-
break trees may be expected to make an average growth of one
foot per year throughout their lives. During the first 20 years
some trees may grow as much as three feet in one year, vari-
tions in growth depending on seasons and soil and moisture
16 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29 APRIL
conditions. On the grand prairie, none of the evergreens need
be expected to make as good height growth nor to maintain as
dense foliage’as they do in other sections of the state.
WHAT THE WINDBREAK TREES ARE LIKE
Norway Spruce (Picea excelsa).—A native of Europe which
has been found well adapted to planting in America. Makes
good growth throughout most of the state of Illinois, but will
not develop on sandy or excessively dry soils. Develops a tall
conical crown with the branches tending to sweep downward
and then turn slightly upward at the ends. The twigs often
hang down like streamers from the lower branches. The leaves
are short, needlelike and rich dark green. Grows best on deep,
fresh soils.
Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga taxifolia)—A native of western
North America found growing under a wide variety of condi-
tions. The type found growing in the dry central Rocky Moun-
tain region is well adapted to planting in Illinois conditions.
Develops a dense pyramidal crown, with lower branches sweep-
ing downward similar to the Norway spruce. The densely
leaved twigs, also, sweep
downward from the branches,
giving an exceptionally attrac-
tive appearance to the tree.
The leaves are needlelike, aver-
aging 1 inch in length, and al-
though normally dark green
may often have a blue tinge.
Black Hills Spruce (Picea
glauca albertiana).—A variety
of the white spruce of the north
woods native to the Black Hills
region of South Dakota. Hav-
ing developed under extremely
dry conditions it should be one
of the best trees to withstand
drouth and intense heat of Fig. 11.—-Interior of Norway spruce
Se Sat eae : windbreak, showing density of foliage.
Mhinorssumme»ns, althoweh at ycce-nanrcale ST enaeneee Hamilton
has never been planted to any County has averaged a feet —
aries : Os ee eee eas growth in 12 years, and shows the
extent in this state. In lowa it adaptability of Norway spruvesn aie
is highly rated as a windbreak _ ern Illinois.
1938 DAVIS: WINDBREAKS FOR ILLINOIS FARMSTEADS 17
tree and because of its longev-
ity and ability to withstand
drouth, it is recommended
over Norway spruce.! It devel-
ops a pyramidal crown, with
branches growing straight out-
ward. The needlelike leaves
have a bluish cast which gives
this tree high ornamental
value.
Norway Pine or Red Pine
(Pinus resinosa).—A _ native
tree of the forests of the Great
: Fig. 12.—Red cedar and Norway
Lakes region and northeastern spruce combined in a windbreak. The
United States which is doing two kinds of trees are the same age, but
the Norway spruce in the background is
exceptionally well in planta- twice as tall as the red cedar in front.
tions in Illinois, even on dry,
sandy soils. Makes rapid growth and attains good height.
The reddish color of the bark and the sturdy upright form of
thisstree add to the beauty of an evergreen planting. Ihe
needlelike leaves are long, but being borne in clusters of two
leaves each do not make as dense foliage as spruce or fir. This,
as well as the other pines, may be planted as the center row of a
spruce or fir windbreak, but should not be used alone except in
the sand regions where conditions are too dry for spruce or fir.
The Norway pine is particularly free from insect pests and
diseases.
White Pine (Pinus strobus).—A native tree of northern I[l1-
nois commonly found as a dooryard tree throughout the state.
Well adapted to a wide variety of soils, but will not stand
dry conditions so well as Norway pine or pitch pine. This tree
makes comparatively fast growth and reaches greater height
than the other evergreens, except on the grand prairie where
the top tends to flatten out. The dark green, needlelike leaves,
borne five in a cluster, are fine and limber and form a denser
foliage than that of the other pines.
Shortleaf Pine (Pinus echinata).—A native pine of south-
ern Illinois found on the dry ridges of the Ozarks. Grows very
rapidly and is well adapted to planting in poor, dry soils.
1Ramsey, G. R. 1936. Evergreen Windbreaks for Iowa Farmsteads. Iowa State College Extension
Circular 217. 31 pp., 31 figs. Mar.
18 ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR 29
The needlelike leaves, borne two or three in a cluster, do not
make a dense foliage. This tree is useful principally because
of its rapid growth, but should be planted only in the southern
part of the state.
Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida).—A pine native to the middle
Atlantic states, found on dry mountain ridges and sandy soils.
In plantations in Illinois it has made rapid growth. The stiff,
needlelike leaves are borne three in a cluster and in older trees
make a sparse, open foliage. Both the pitch pine and shortleaf
pine may be subject to serious attacks of the pine tip moth which
kills the terminal buds and checks the height growth of. the
trees:
Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana).—A native evergreen of
Illinois with short, needlelike and scalelike leaves and a very
dense branching habit. It does not make great height growth,
seldom reaching a height of 40 feet, but is adapted to practically
all soils. Because of its dense crown it is useful where there is
room for only a single row of trees. The red cedar harbors the .
cedar apple rust, which may cause serious damage to its alternate
host, the apple. It is therefore not recommended for use in
apple regions, although orchardists may grow rust-resistant
varieties of apples.
OTHER TREE PUBLICATIONS
Care of Trees.—Sawyer, L. E., Illinois State Natural History Survey Forestry
Circular No. 5, 1932.
Forest Planting on Illinois Farms—Davis, J. E., University of Illinois College of
Agriculture and Agricultural Experiment Station Circular No. 477, 1937.
Managing the Farm Woods for Profit.—Sawyer, L. E., University of Ilinois College
of Agriculture and Agricultural Experiment Station Circular No. 392. 1932.
Marketing Illinois Forest Products—Sawyer, L. E., University of Illinois College of
Agriculture and Agricultural Experiment Station Circular No. 361. 1930.
Elements of Forestry with Special Reference to Illinois—Locke, Stanley S., State of
Illinois Division of Forestry, Department of Conservation, Publication No. 9,
1936.
Mimeographed leaflets of the Illinois State Natural History Survey and University
of Illinois College of Agriculture: Shade Tree Feeding, L. R. Tehon; Killing
Undesirable Trees with Poison, J. E. Davis; Treating Fence Posts on the Farm,
J. E. Davis.
Copies of these circulars and leaflets may be obtained by writing to the Ex-
tension Forester, Room 213, New Agriculture Building, or the Illinois Natural History
Survey, Urbana, Illinois.
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RECENT PUBLICATIONS
of the Illinois State Natural History Survey
A.—ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY BULLETIN.
Volume 21, Article 1—The Effect of Petroleum-oil Sprays on Insects and Plants. By
M. D. Farrar. November 1936. 32 pp., frontis. + 21 figs., bibliog. Contents: Fore-
word; Properties of oil emulsions; Effect of petroleum oils on plants; Insecticide
tests with the emulsions; Oils with fungicides.
Volume 21, Article 2.—Responses of the Large-mouth Black Bass to Colors. By Frank
A. Brown, Jr. May 1937. 23 pp., frontis. + 10 figs., bibliog. Contents: Problem
of color vision in fishes; Materials for the experiments; Training and responses of
large-mouth black bass; Interpretation of the responses; Summary.
Volume 21, Article 3.—Studies of Nearctic Aquatic Insects. By H. H. Ross and T. H.
Frison. September 1937. 52 pp., frontis. + 86 figs., bibliog. Contents: I. Nearetic
alder flies of the genus Sialis (Megaloptera, Sialidae), by H. H. Ross; and II.
Descriptions of Plecoptera, with special reference to the Illinois species, by T. H.
Frison. 50 cents.
Volume 21, Article 4.—Descriptions of Nearctic Caddis Flies (Trichoptera) with
special reference to the Illinois species. By Herbert H. Ross. March 1938. 83 pp.,
frontis. + 123 figs., foreword, index. $1.00.
B.—ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY CIRCULAR.
26.—Insect Enemies of the Peach in Illinois. By S. C. Chandler and W. P. Flint.
May 1935. 38 pp., 30 figs. Contents: Appearance and type of injury, control and
life history of San Jose scale, peach borer, lesser peach borer, shothole borer, peach-
tree bark beetle, terrapin scale, oriental fruit moth, peach-twig borer, plum cur-
culio, tarnished plant bug, stink bug, Japanese beetle, green June beetle, cotton-leaf
worm moth, aphids, grasshoppers, tree crickets, thrips. 25 cents.
28.—Rout the Weeds! By L. R. Tehon. August 1937. 34 pp., color frontis. + 8 figs.
Contents: The importance of weeds; Weeds as economic factors; Weeds as harbor-
ers of plant diseases; Relation of weeds to public health; Control methods; Eight
pernicious weeds of Illinois—common ragweed, giant ragweed, poison ivy, poison
sumac, wild parsnip, white snakeroot, pokeweed, common burdock.
C.—ILLINOIS NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY MANUAL.
1.—Fieldbook of Illinois Wild Flowers. By the staff. March 1936. 406 pp., color
frontis. + 349 figs., index. Contents: Introduction; Key to families; Description
of species (650). $1.50.
Address orders and correspondence to the Chief
ILLINOIS STATE NATURAL HISTORY SURVEY
Natural History Bldg., Urbana, III.
Payment must accompany requests for publications, in the form
of U.S. Post Office money order made out to State
Treasurer of Illinois, Springfield, Illinois.
“NU
3 0112 017541183