_ YEARBOOK — of the HEATHER SOCIETY 1999 ISSN 0440-5757 THE HEATHER SOCIETY Registered charity No 261407 Affiliated societies Nederlandse Heidervereniging ‘Ericultura’ Gesellschaft der Heidefreunde North American Heather Society President Mr David McClintock TD, FLS, VMH. Vice-Presidents Mist Aero wiliala Mrs P. B.. Lee Mrs D. Metheny Mr D>. B. Oliver COUNCIL 1998-1999 Chairman Mr D. J. Small Honorary Secretary MioR. Je-Cleevely, Mr A. R. Collins Mis: DH Jones Jr: Mins dr drain Mr D. By Mathis Dr: R. ‘Nichols Mr A. J. Stow Honorary Treasurer Mr A. Hall Mrs DD: Everett Mr P. L. Joyner Mr D. J. I. Mayne Dr E&. €. Nelson Mie Ds He Rope © The authors & The Heather Society The Heather Society and the editors take no responsibility for the views expressed by authors in papers and notes published in this Yearbook. Yearbook of The Heather Society is accredited with the International Association for Plant Taxonomy for the purpose of registration of new vascular plant names (excluding fossils). FRONT COVER: Close-up of Erica mackaiana, near Errisbeg, Co. Galway, Ireland. [A.W. Jones] (see p. iv) Yearbook of The Heather Society Fd ; Le —~ | - Le y yo 4 ver) « S 5 oO, . iy ed ¥ . y y : bof re 4 j ) aS sy [ eat i => wa ef , im = H hall & fi a Fe 7 Sy "| A 2 gi HY = v4 p} ra nl ‘\ SUN, oF i) ~ Us f YI XK me y # \ ot f 4, = y \s > Mi ~ 4 Nf LN f, v4 NEL & 4 Q, i. V4 SD y af y 4 = { ge ~ a u LP > _ Sr a Editor Dr E. Charles Nelson Assistant Editor R. J. Cleevely ISSN FO44-0-S 457 The Heather Society c/o Denbeigh, All Saints Road, Creeting St Mary, IPSWICH, Suffolk, IP6 8PJ il Erica spiculifolia, also known as Bruckenthalia spiculifolia, in an Irish garden. (photograph E. C. Nelson). FAREWELL TO BRUCKENTHALIA The Royal Horticultural Society’s Advisory Panel on Nomenclature and Taxonomy has signalled its agreement that Bruckenthalia spiculifolia should now be treated as a species of Erica. While the Panel’s role is explicitly advisory, its decision has one immediate practical effect. The name Erica spicultfolia will now be used, instead of Bruckenthalia spicultfolia, in The RHS plant finder which increasingly is consulted as an authoritative source of plant names. Plant names are, in the final analysis, a matter of opinion. Some botanists, nurserymen and gardeners will probably wish to continue to regard this species as forming a separate, distinct genus. There is no law compelling the change to be accepted universally. If we wish, we are all still able to use the name Bruckenthalia spiculifolia — that name remains valid. The Heather Society, which has responsibility for registering cultivar names (see pp 68-69), has already accepted that Bruckenthalia should be submerged into Erica. All the same — and I realise this seems confusing — a register of cultivar names within Bruckenthalia is now published. E. C. NELSON iu ... Of Mice and men... This is the sixth Yearbook that I have had the privilege of editing. Sadly, this Yearbook also contains the Society’s tribute to my immediate predecessor, Bert Jones. Albert Julian, Vice-President of The Heather Society, pays tribute to Bert in the following pages, as does David McClintock, the Society’s President (see p. 54). May I take this occasion also to record my sadness and my thanks to a colleague who, at 64, has passed away long before his time. Bert edited the Yearbook from 1979 to 1993, producing 15 issues; his term as editor lasted longer than that of either of the previous editors, P.S. Patrick (1963-1972) and Arnold Stow (1973-1978). Furthermore, as can be seen from his extensive bibliography (pp 3-5), Bert also contributed in no small measure to the contents of past Yearbooks. He was a meticulous editor, and a meticulous scientist, quite content to spend many hours counting and measuring pollen grains to enable him to “sort out” the taxonomy of cultivars. His punctilious work carried over into the enormous task of producing the draft international register of heathers, a task that, most regrettably, Bert was unable to complete due to his debilitating, final illness. Thus his legacy to the Society extends beyond Yearbook issues and includes accurate taxonomic data and a prodigious draft register. We will all miss him. Most seriously, we have all been deprived of Bert’s substantial, long-accumulated knowledge of heathers. May he rest in peace. I also wish to take this opportunity to signal several other matters. The Heather Society is an international society and this Yearbook is an international journal. This fact is now underlined by the accreditation granted by the International Association for Plant Taxonomy, enabling the automatic registration of new species names published herein. Like my predecessors, I must try to balance the contents of each Yearbook, providing articles and papers of interest to our diverse membership. Some members may not read all the articles, skipping those that seem of no immediate interest. So may I urge you to try to read everything, in each issue. You may miss something of outstanding interest and importance. This is the last Yearbook of the 1900s — the next one will bear the notable date 2000. Yearbook 1999 is also remarkable for what it contains. There are articles on flower arranging, Scandinavian folklore, and cultivation techniques, but may I draw particular attention to Ted and Inge Oliver’s new Cape species. Often we think we know everything there is to know about heathers, but the Olivers’ contribution shows that we still have much to learn. Bees, thrips, wind and birds are all known to act as natural pollinators of heathers — yet, as the Olivers tentatively suggest, the next millennium may even see the addition of a mammal to that list. Mice (and gardeners!) as pollinators of heathers. E. C. NELSON Bert Jones in his garden, 11 days before his death. He was an excellent photographer. From his many colour photographs we have selected one, showing Erica mackaiana. Bert fell in love with Connemara following The Heather Society's field trip in 1995 and returned two years later ina windy July which made close-up photography in the wild impossible. To photograph the front cover picture, Bert had to pick a few sprigs, position his car in such a way that he could gain some shelter, stick the sprigs in a banana, part of his lunch, and take this picture in the boot of his car. Albert W. Jones (1934-1998). Albert William (Bert) Jones, a dedicated, long-serving council member of the Heather Society and our much respected International Registrar, died peacefully at his home in Somerset on Wednesday, 26 August 1998. After many years of constant pain and suffering, and the after-effects of earlier surgical complications, operations for cancer were more than his quite amazingly strong will to live, could overcome. Diane, who gave Bert her whole untiring attention during those painful years, and sons Innes and Ewan have our deepest sympathies. Bert, together with Diane, first became interested in heathers in 1967, having been inspired by a visit to John Letts’ garden, and was soon purchasing plants for his own garden at Taplow from Letts’ nursery. He joined the Heather Society in 1967 and, with Diane, formed the South West Group in 1975. For three years they played a major part in organising its activities. In the following year he was elected to the Council. He then became Editor of the Yearbook producing his first issue in 1979, but after 14 years, he was forced to relinquish the post following an operation for a duodenal ulcer. Browsing through the red-backed Yearbooks, published during the years of Bert’s editorship I was reminded of the wide range of subjects that were covered; articles which so well met the needs and interests of the majority of members and creating a storehouse of comprehensive historical interest for the years to come. This work must have absorbed much of his spare time during a period when his professional scientific responsibilities with Plessey were considerable, involving world-wide travel. It is interesting to note that Diane also edited the Society’s Bulletin for a period of twelve years. Together, in 1998, they wrote Conifers and heathers, one of the popular “Step by Step” garden guide series (although only Diane's name appears as author), and despite Bert’s failing health it was produced in an amazingly short time of twelve weeks. It inevitably displayed his profound knowledge of the subject, his meticulous attention to detail, and is mainly illustrated by his own photographs. This was a joint husband and wife effort, and a fine example of the identity of interests and co-operation that existed throughout their married life. My first contact with Bert was in 1976. I was asked to take over the chair of the Technical Committee and conscious of my limited experience of growing heathers I was a little in awe of my scientist member, Bert; erudite, vigorous in exposition and discussion and with a vast experience of heather culture. In the event, he gave me considerable help and guidance and thus began a friendship which developed through the succeeding years. N In 1970 the Jones’ family moved to a charming spot on the banks of the River Cam in West Camel a delightful, Somerset village. The soil was alkaline so the choice of plants that they could grow was limited. With his scientific approach to the prevailing growing conditions he soon became an acknowledged authority on the lime tolerant heather species and their cultivation. Thanks to Bert’s generosity my garden, along with many others, has many plants of Erica carnea, E. manipuliflora, E. vagans and others which come from his Otters’ Court garden. He also donated many of the plants in the Harlow Carr E. carnea and E. x darleyensis collections. Having founded the South West Group in 1975 Bert and Diane moved on to plan the 1979 Conference and played a great part in organising the 1996 Conference. Their delightful garden was featured in the BBC TV series “Gardens for All” in 1985 and more recently The Daily Mail gave a coloured full-sheet spread fully illustrating the attractive newly replanted garden. The Heather Society’s President, David McClintock, relinquished the post of International Registrar for heathers which he had held for nearly a quarter of a century and in 1995 Bert agreed to take over despite his continuing health problems. I know that the challenge of taking responsibility for the unfinished Register, assisting in the development of a new computer database and attending to cultivar registration matters was gladly and enthusiastically accepted. Many hours were spent on compiling a revised check list of cultivars comprising three volumes of about 250 pages, and adding this data to the computer database. With unbelievable courage Bert continued to work on his registration duties until the last few weeks. He conducted a registration workshop at the 1996 Conference at Dillington and as guest speaker at the North American Heather Society’s 1996 Conference in California his talk was on registration with particular reference to his own work as International Registrar. His lucid and interesting discourse brought very favourable comment and I quote from our chairman’s account of the conference: 'He had the unenviable task of explaining how, why and where heathers are registered and named. It is a difficult subject to tackle as there are so few visual aids one can use. Bert did an admirable job and was much complimented on his approach.’ To say that Bert will be sorely missed is a gross understatement and completing the work on the register poses a great problem for the Society. His many friends who have followed his brave fight with the debilitating after-effects of surgery and his later fatal illness will mourn his absence and will be thinking of Diane and family in their great loss. ALBERT JULIAN Vice-President of The Heather Society CULTIVARS ASSOCIATED WITH BERT JONES Erica carnea ‘Barry Sellers’ — introduced by Otters’ Court Heathers by 1988. Erica carnea ‘Spring Cottage Crimson’ — introduced by Otters’ Court Heathers by 1981. Erica carnea ‘Wentwood Red’ — introduced by Otters’ Court Heathers by 1981. Erica erigena ‘Brian Proudley’ — named by A. W. Jones in 1978. Erica erigena ‘Ewan Jones’ — found by A. W. Jones in 1973; introduced, and registered by A. W. Jones, 28 November 1977. Reg. No. 8. Erica x griffithsi “Heaven Scent’ — registered A. W. Jones, 17 December 1990. Reg. No. 90. Erica x griffithsi ‘Valerie Griffiths’ — introduced by Otters’ Court Heathers, c. 1990. Erica manipuliflora ‘Cascades’ — collected in Dalmatia by A. W. Jones and D. McClintock in October 1988; introduced by Otters’ Court Heathers by 1994. Erica manipuliflora ‘Corfu’ — registered by A.W. Jones, 27 November 1988. Reg. No. 67. Erica manipuliflora “Don Richards’ — registered by A.W. Jones, 27 November 1988. Reg. No. 69. Erica manipuliflora ‘Korcula’ — introduced by Otters’ Court Heathers in 1988. A. W. JONEs: A BIBLIOGRAPHY Papers, notes and articles on heathers Yearbook = Yearbook of The Heather Society Bulletin = Bulletin of The Heather Society 1972 From Taplow to Yeovil. Bulletin no. 16 (Summer): 4. 1973 Letter. Bulletin no. 20 (Autumn): 6. 1975 Some random thoughts on rooting cuttings. Yearbook 2 (4): 36-41. 1976 Reports from local groups. South-west Group. Yearbook 2 (5): 34. 1977 Observations on lime tolerance. Yearbook 2 (6): 38-40. Timely watering. Bulletin 2 (10): 8. Group News - South-West. Bulletin 2 (12): 9. 1978 A famous nursery — Maxwell and Beale. Yearbook 2 (7): 13-17. Erica ciliaris, and Erica x watsonii in Dorset. Yearbook 2 (7): 49-52. 1979 Editorial. Yearbook 2 (8): 1-2. [Threats to our native heathlands.| Yearbook 2 (8): 2. [On moving large heathers.] Yearbook 2 (8): 18. Sharp eyes help to solve the mystery of Erica “Stuartii’. Yearbook 2 (8): 33-34. The classification of hardy winter-flowering heaths with note on Erica x darleyensis. Yearbook 2 (8): 38-46. [Editorial note on new acquisitions.] Yearbook 2 (8): 46. 1980 Editorial. Yearbook 2 (9): 3-4. [On winter survival of heathers.] Yearbook 2 (9): 14. Damage in members’ gardens in the winter of 1978-1979; [on intensified foliage colour of heathers]; [Otters' Court.] Yearbook 2 (9): 15, 17. [On Erica manipuliflora.] Yearbook 2 (9): 19. Review of winter experience. Yearbook 2 (9): 22-24 [not signed]. [On use of fungicides on heathers.] Yearbook 2 (9): 36. One, two or three cultivars? Yearbook 2 (9): 59-64. [Comment on new acquisitions.] Yearbook 2 (9): 66-67. 1981 Year Book. Bulletin 2 (20): 3. 1981 Editorial. Yearbook 2 (10): 3-4. [On galls.] Yearbook 2 (10): 22. Erica tetralix. Bulletin 3 (2): 7. 1982 Editorial. Yearbook 2 (11): 3-4. [On Erica ciliaris.] Yearbook 2 (11): 36-37. Synonyms. Bulletin 3 (5): 6. 1983 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (1): 3-4. Erica ‘Jack Stitt’. Yearbook 3 (1): 42-43. Double flowers on Erica x stuarti ‘Trish Lemon’. The garden 108: 31. An unusual reversion on Erica carnea ‘Ann Sparkes’. The garden 108: 253 St Kilda collection. Bulletin 3 (9): 7. 1984 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (2): 3-4. [Erica x williams at Goonhilly.] Yearbook 3 (2): 11. Heather cultivars from Cornwall. Yearbook 3 (2): 50-56. [Obituary] Ken Farrah. Bulletin 3 (12): 2-3. Dorset Heath in Devon. Bulletin 3 (12): 7. 1985 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (3): 3-4. Some notes on Erica cinerea var. rendlei and six recent finds. Yearbook 3 (3): 59-66. [Comments on new acquisitions.] Yearbook 3 (3): 67, 71. Errata. Yearbook 3 (3): 73. 1986 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (4): 3-4. [Erica lusitanica in New Zealand.] Yearbook 3 (4): 30-31. First records of the heathers of the British Isles. Yearbook 3 (4): 34-39. Another aspect of cultivar names. Bulletin 3 (18): 2. 1987 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (5): 3-5. [On Erica parkert.| Yearbook 3 (5): 37. Notes on Erica manipuliflora, E. vagans and their hybrids. Yearbook 3 (5): 51-57. [Obituary] Roy Turner. Bulletin 4 (2): 1-2. 1988 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (6): [John Battye; John Main.] Yearbook 3 (6): 10. [On nomenclature; Erica intermedia, E. x parkeri.] Yearbook 3 (6): 50. The yellow-foliage cultivars of Erica carnea. Yearbook 3 (6): 59-68. A trip to Holland and Germany. Bulletin 4 (4): 6-8. Couch amongst heathers. Bulletin 4 (5): 7. 1989 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (7): 3-4. Erica manipuliflora Salisb. in southern Yugoslavia, October 1988. Yearbook 3 (7): 36- 44, 1990 Editorial. Yearbook 3 (8): 3-4. A note on Erica carnea ‘Unknown Warrior’. Yearbook 3 (8): 46-47 . [On Erica bocquetii.| Yearbook 3 (8): 52. NOM Editorial. Yearbook 3 (9): 3. Bad companions. Yearbook 3 (9): 19-20. Cultivars of the Erica manipuliflora Group. Yearbook 3 (9): 29-32. IW Editorial. Yearbook 3 (10): 3. [H. L. Nicholson.] Yearbook 3 (10): 3-5. English and scientific names for heathers. Yearbook 3 (10): 43-44. A Dorset hilltop. Yearbook 3 (10): 57-59. 1993 1995 1996 1997, 1998 Editorial. Yearbook 4 (1): 3-4. [On Bells’ Heather Project.] Yearbook 4 (1): 22. [Calluna in bloom] Bulletin 4 (18): 4. A message from the Registrar. Bulletin 5 (4): 2. A November look at the heathers at Wisley. Bulletin 5 (4): 10-11. Open Forum [Gaultheria, Pernettya.] Bulletin 5 (4): 16. Profile of our Registrar — Albert William (Bert) Jones. Bulletin 5 (5): 4-6. Members’ letters. Bulletin 5 (6): 10-12. On the naming of heathers. Heather news 18 (4): 24. Lime-tolerant heathers. The garden 121: 24. Erica manipuliflora “Cascade’. The garden 121: 789 [with photograph]. Erica bocquetit. Yearbook: 20 [with photograph]. Cultivars registered to 31 December 1995. Yearbook: 60-61. Cultivar names new to the Registrar. .. .amplification and ameliorations. Yearbook: 64-65. Future registrations for the International Register. Bulletin 5 (7): 4. Phantom cultivars. Bulletin 5 (8): 3-4. Wisdom from the past. Bulletin 5 (8): 13. Apologia pro erratum Future registrations. Heather news 19 (1): 10. The new cultivated plant code. Heather news 19 (1): 11. Letter from Somerset. Heather news 19 (1): 14. (with Diane Jones) Conifers and heathers (Step by step garden guides. 1997). Erica “Heaven Scent’. Yearbook: 38 [with photograph]. Cultivars registered to 31 December 1996. Yearbook: 66-67. Cultivar group name. Calluna vulgaris St Kilda Group. Yearbook: 67. Cultivar names new to the Registrar, 1996. Yearbook: 67-71. From the Registrar. Bulletin 5 (10): 9-10. Yet another “nomenclatural change”? Bulletin 5 (10): 11. (with Daphne Everett) 27th Annual Conference, Newton Rigg College, Penrith, Cumbria, 5-8 September 1997. Yearbook: 58-63 [with photographs]. Cultivars registered to 31 December 1997. Yearbook: 70. Cultivar names new to the Registrar, 1997. Yearbook: 70-72. Book reviews WS 1980 1933 1984 199i 1992 1996 G. Yates. Pocket guide to heather gardening (1978). Yearbook 2 (8): 25-27. F. P. Knight. Heaths and heathers (Wisley handbook 3, 1979). Yearbook 2 (9): 38-40. Nature Conservancy. The conservation of lowland heathland. Yearbook 3 (1): 51-52. G. Smith. World of flowers (1984). Bulletin 3 (11): 8. T. Underhill. Heaths and heathers (new edition. 1990) Yearbook 3 (9): 23-26. D. Carr. Heathers and conifers. Yearbook 3 (10): 40-41. International code of nomenclature for cultivated plants — 1995. Bulletin 5 (7): 8-10. R. J. CLEEVELY & E. C. NELSON Fig. 2. Lilies and heathers in a gilded container Yb. Heather Soc. 1999: 6-9 Points and textures: sources of inspiration for a NAFAS national demonstrator. MARION SUDBURY Millcroft House, West Drove North, WALPOLE.ST PETER PE14 7HU, Norfolk. Garden plant material is the favourite medium of any flower arranger, particularly one belonging to the National Association of Flower Arrangement Societies, as gardening and arranging are two parallel passions with members of our organisation. When I accepted the invitation to write this article I studied my books on plant material and discovered that there were so many species and hybrids of Heathers listed I panicked! What a choice and where to begin; then I decided to use the plants that lam familiar with, those growing in my Fenland earden, without any help from ericaceous composts or acid soil. These rewarding plants offer excellent ground cover, much needed winter colour and wonderful texture and form for flower arranging. The “Spring Landscape” design (Fig. 1) gives one example of how the versatile Erica carnea can be used to contrast with the vibrant colour of Narcissus ‘February Gold’ and the primrose plants. The muted shade of the E. carnea gives some depth to the design as well as introducing some much needed rough texture to the grouping. A large plastic plant-pot saucer covered with fresh moss is used as a container for a block of water-retaining foam (Oasis is its trade-name.) The dish is placed on a base covered with a dark green fabric to match the moss and a piece of driftwood is placed in front of the dish. Other seasonal plant materials used are the eye-catching leaves of Arum italicum and the long silky catkins of the tassel bush, Garrya elliptica ‘James Roof’. Narcissi are easier to arrange if used in groups depicting their natural growing habit; if you have difficulty pushing the stems into the foam try inserting a drinking straw into the stem first. The primrose plants have been removed from their pots and have been placed, with the compost, into small plastic bags. The basic components of this arrangement will remain fresh for some time and the narcissi can be replaced when necessary. The bold beauty of the Lilium longiflorum flowers is enhanced by the contrasting form and texture of the white Erica carnea which have been arranged in a gilded classical container (Fig. 2). The strong lines of the New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax) create the outline and complement the pointed form of the heather. A further three leaves of the Phormium have been curled and anchored into the foam with pins to create a rhythmic line and bring the eye back into the centre of the arrangement. These curls have been repeated with a bolder medium, Aspidistra leaves; the smooth surface of these leaves create a calm area in the design as well as contrasting with the rough textures of the heather and carnation blooms. The grouping is simple and combines perfectly with the classical lines of the container. The quantities of plant material used are important and should always be in proportion to the container, which, in this design, stands eighteen inches tall. Five stems of Lilium longiflorum, five white carnations, five Aspidistra leaves and five Phormium tenax leaves were the main components selected together with a large quantity of the white Erica carnea used as a filler. Late Winter and early Spring can often present difficulties for those of us who love arranging garden plant material in the home. The landscape design already discussed is one option. A more sophisticated design is illustrated in the terracotta pot (Fig. 3). The pot I have used is quite large, about ten inches tall and ten inches in diameter. The foam is contained in a plastic-pot saucer placed snugly into the top of the pot. A wide sweeping line is created by placing several large pieces of dried larch branches to one side. These are balanced by a shorter heavier grouping on the opposite side, in this case azalea branches covered with lichen. Visual weight is added to the front with the two string tassels hanging over the edge of the pot, and the bold placement of the fungi. These are balanced by the strong form of the driftwood. The line created by the tassels is continued by the early Spring tulips drawing the eye to the placement of the soft pink flowers of the heather. Further contrasts of form are given by the pine cones, the early flowers of the Helleborus foetidus and the bronze tipped leaves of the Bergenia. All the groupings of plant material complement one another and harmonise perfectly with the terracotta pot. Spring demonstrations regularly include my garden heathers, but this need not restrict you to this season. Many of the summer flowering heathers are suitable for use, and of course the tree heath, Erica arborea, is perfect for larger designs. Also, many of the lovely South African heaths are readily available in the florist shops, and some of the coarser leaved varieties preserve well in glycerine. The formula is simple, one part glycerine to two parts boiling water, and just recut the stem ends and place in the solution until the leaves begin to change colour. Remove and tie into bunches — just hang the bunch in the airing cupboard until the leaves have changed colour. The preserved material should be stored in well-aired space away from direct sunlight. JENS Sy Tulips and heathers with hellebores and larch. The exercise was an enjoyable challenge. The illustrations speak for themselves. The pretty pointed forms are visually rough and provide a perfect foil for the dramatic forms of the larger flowers. I now challenge you to have a go-to study the colour, form, texture of your plant material, and the space around it, and combine them altogether to create a design of your own. | wish you happy flower arranging. CONDITIONING HEATHERS Rumours abound about the correct way to condition heathers for flower arranging. The simplest way is to cut healthy growth and, using a very sharp knife, remove the outer bark of the last inch of the stem. Place the stems into boiling water for ten seconds then transfer to cool water for several hours. Regular misting with a spray helps to keep them fresh once arranged. Photographs taken by Richard Galloway are reproduced by kind permission of the National Association of Flower Arrangement Societies, 21 Denbigh Street, London SW1 2HF. 10 Erica umbellata growing in an old ceramic sink, at Outwell in Norfolk. Erica umbellata in Norfolk The plant shown in the photograph had been grown outdoors without protection in Outwell, on the Norfolk/Cambridgeshire border, for the past three years. It has survived temperatures well below 0°C, and does not appear to be affected by the cold, dry winds which are a characteristic of our region. The plant came from northern Spain in 1983; it was collected by David McClintock, David Smali and myself on the same trip that yielded Erica mackaiana ‘Shining Light’. No special conditions were prepared for the plant. It was, literally, stuffed into a gap among other small plants that were established in an old ceramic sink filled with peat. The sink is occasionally given extra water in Summer when the shamrock pea (Parochetus communis) which also inhabits the sink shows signs of wilting. Otherwise it receives only rain. The colour of the flowers is a strong lilac (I have not compared it with the Society’s colour chart yet). The prominent projecting anthers are dark brown. Erica umbellata flowers in these conditions in June, the flowers lasting for about four weeks. | E. C. Nelson Yb. Heather Soc. 1999: 11-21 Heathers in the glasshouse. ALLEN HALL 10 Upper Green, Nanpantan, LOUGHBOROUGH LE11 35SG, Leicestershire. INTRODUCTION In Victorian times, South African heathers (Cape heaths) were very popular and large, sometimes beautifully ornamental, glasshouses were built to house them. At one time the Veitch Nursery in Chelsea was offering 150 species. The popularity of South African heathers declined as the large estates faced rising costs. The maintenance and running costs of enormous glasshouses were very high and proved to be a luxury that could be dispensed with. In recent times, perhaps the best collection of Cape heaths in Britain was at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. This well-kept collection of about 50 species, mainly winter-flowering ones, was in the Temperate House. Kew, like the Victorians, considered that there was plenty of colour outside in the garden in the summer and the best use for Cape heathers was to provide blossom in the winter. Now, not more than about 40 species of South African heathers are commercially available in Britain. Cape heaths retain a hold on the pot- plant market and millions of Erica gracilis and E. x hiemalis plants are sold from market stalls each autumn. There is a persistent view that glasshouse gardening is not for the heather enthusiast — that it is, if anything, a rich man’s pastime. The palaces of glass loved by rich Victorians were expensive to build, maintain and heat, but modern glasshouses are cheap both to buy and heat. They are no longer the preserve of the rich, and many thousands of gardeners today routinely use small greenhouses, and thousands more householders have conservatories. Many “townies” with little or no garden are glasshouse gardeners and I have seen glasshouses built on the flat roofs of apartment blocks in central London. It is arguable that elderly or infirm people can find enjoyment in glasshouse gardening when gardening outdoors is beyond them. And any gardener will find it more attractive to potter in a glasshouse on a cold winter’s day than to work outside. Heathers in the popular imagination mean the hardy heathers of northern Europe. There are, however, a number of European species of great 12 Fig. 1. Allen Hall’s glasshouse with Erica canaliculata (outside). This is an Alton wooden greenhouse set on purpose-made concrete foundations. Note the automatically operated roof and side vents, and manually worked floor-level vents, bubble insulation and green shading. beauty which are not reliably hardy everywhere in northern Europe, including Britain and Ireland, but are well worth growing. Enthusiasts in other specialist societies do not shrink from giving their favourites some winter protection and it is common for vegetable gardeners to use greenhouses to give their plants an earlier start in the season. I am astonished that more heather enthusiasts do not use glasshouses to enable them to grow a wider range of heathers including those from Mediterranean climes. Then there is the vast potential of more than 700 South African species of Erica to invite a new look at growing heathers in glasshouses. THE GLASSHOUSE: I. Cost Small aluminium-framed glasshouses can be purchased for as little as £150. The most common size of domestic glasshouses is 8 feet wide by 10 feet long (2.4x3m) and a good quality one witha few extras, like staging and guttering, can cost around £1,000. Shopping around is essential because prices for apparently similar structures differ widely from one outlet to another. Plenty 13 of advertisements can be found in horticultural and gardening magazines, including The garden, and it is best to look at models on display before buying, if possible. The cost of erecting the glasshouse must be taken into consideration. The choice between wooden and aluminium frames comes down to personal preference — there are no compelling advantages one way or the other. Wood is a better insulator than aluminium and it is easier to fix shelves, tack in insulation, etc., on wood than aluminium, though attachment fittings are available for aluminium frames. But wood needs to be treated every two or three years to prevent it rotting. ‘THE GLASSHOUSE: II. PREPARING THE SITE The site for a glasshouse needs to be prepared in advance. It must be level and some form of foundation will be needed. The glasshouse should be orientated west-—east if possible but the nature of the site will probably dictate the orientation. A path, usually of concrete slabs or concrete cast in situ, is needed down the centre of the glasshouse. Amateurs normally grow their glasshouse heathers in pots and to accommodate this, the beds should be dug only about 3 inches (7cm) deep. It is wise to do this on both sides even if staging is erected along one side. The exposed surface should be covered with black polythene sheets (empty plastic peat bags will do) and a garden fork driven through here and there to create drainage holes. A layer of pea shingle can be spread on top of the plastic; for a standard 8x10ft glasshouse about half a ton (0.4m?) of shingle will be needed to cover the two beds. The beds are now ready for plant-pots. THE GLASSHOUSE: III. FEATURES REQUIRED FOR GROWING HEATHERS Heathers, including South African ones, like plenty of air. In fact this holds true for most plants. Good ventilation with numerous vents is therefore essential. In winter good air circulation helps prevent grey mould (Botrytis). A guide, sometimes quoted, is that the available ventilation area (including the door) should be about one third of the floor area. Some glasshouse users who have electricity installed also have thermostatically controlled fans, or fan heaters set to the “sunshine” position, to assist ventilation. Except in mid-winter when the sun is low in the sky, the temperature reached inside a glasshouse, even with good ventilation, can be over 100°F (40°C). To control temperature, shading needs to be installed on the outside of the glass, on the sunny sides. Dark coloured netting or gauze designed for the purpose will do. With wooden greenhouses, the netting is stretched between appropriately placed cup-hooks screwed into the frame of the roof 14 Bes Figs 2 & 3. Inside the glasshouse, showing The gravel bed, with E. bocquetii in full staging with E. bocquetii in bloom, and bloom. In summer most plants are E. maderensis on the high level stage. outdoors. (Both photographs July 1998). and sides. Fixing attachments are available for aluminium ones. Some of the netting may be retained in position during the winter. The main object of growing heathers in a glasshouse is to protect them from frost. Hardy heathers in pots will survive outside without protection but will do even better in an un-heated glasshouse even though the pots may freeze solid in cold weather. But Cape heaths and the non-hardy heathers of southern Europe need to be kept frost-free and it is simply no use going to the expense of erecting a glasshouse for tender heathers unless it is reliably heated in winter. Some Cape heaths can withstand freezing temperatures in their native habitats but it is established that they rarely will in Britain. In general, therefore, heating is a basic requirement. The minimum winter temperature needs only to be maintained a little above freezing, 40°F (5°C). There are, of course, various forms of heaters. I prefer an electric fan heater because it keeps air circulating which is good for the plants and ensures reasonably even and quick distribution of warm air. | calculate that it costs 15 about £50 per year to heat my 10x13ft glasshouse, which is insulated with bubble-plastic. Paraffin or butane fuelled heaters can be used. It must be remembered that these produce a fair amount of condensation so it is even more important to ensure that the glasshouse gets a good blow through after the heater has been in use as soon as the ambient temperature permits. A maximum/ minimum thermometer will be needed so that temperatures can be monitored and the level of heating adjusted. It is not essential to insulate the glasshouse but it makes obvious financial sense to do so, to cut down fuel bills especially when electricity is used. Bubble-plastic insulation is available in garden centres and DIY stores. It slowly degenerates and needs to be replaced after about three years. An essential for those living in hard water areas is a water butt because ‘soft water’ (lime-free water) is essential for lime-hating plants. Guttering attached to the glasshouse eaves usually provides an adequate supply of lime-free rain water. Heathers will tolerate ‘hard water’ for a few weeks or even months but continuous use of ‘hard water’ will eventually cause chlorosis and death (see below). Irrigation equipment is not essential but at times can be useful. While neighbours and family can be kind and agree to water your plants when you are away on holiday, they are unlikely to have the knowledge and experience necessary to ensure that this is done properly. However the erower’s experience can be built into a purpose-designed irrigation system which can be called into use generally for spells in the summer. A mains water supply is piped into the glasshouse by garden hose, and it can save work later on if provision is made for a hose pipe when the glasshouse foundations are laid. The hose is fed through a battery powered water controller which incorporates a clock and valve. These controllers are not cheap. Individual drip water feeders for each pot or container come into their own for this application. To get the right amount of water, little valves are inserted in the micro-pipe system just by the water feeder. For large containers, two or three drippers may be necessary. Sprays can be used provided effective precautions are taken to prevent electrical equipment being splashed. I like to put my plants outside for the summer months where a spray type system can be used, again using the water controller to turn the water on and off at predetermined times. My experience is that two five-minute periods a day suffice, one before the sun gets on the plants and another in the evening. But experience and observation of the individual installation will soon show what is necessary. If the mains water is hard, it is best to limit the use of irrigation to a few weeks per year in total. 16 THE GLASSHOUSE: IV. HYGIENE It is important to maintain a good standard of hygiene in the glasshouse. This is made easier if the plants are in pots or containers which can be removed. All heathers including Cape heaths, benefit from summer in the open air and this also gives the glasshouse an airing. I make use of the summer to remove fallen leaves and debris from the pea gravel and then rake the gravel. The staging and shelves are washed with a solution of Jeyes Fluid. I also flush the gravel with the same disinfectant using a watering can witha rose. When the bubble insulation is replaced, opportunity is taken to wash the glass and treat the wooden frame with a suitable preservative inside and out. No plant can safely be put back into the glasshouse for a month after these ministrations to allow the gravel to dry and the fumes disperse. The external glass and guttering are swilled down every year and the rain water butts are cleaned out thoroughly every time they run empty. A pinch of potassium permanganate is added to each butt when it is full of fresh water to keep it clear of algae. In the summer, vents and the door of the glasshouse are left open even when there are no plants init, but pieces of the cheapest plastic netting available can be hooked over the lower apertures to prevent foxes, dogs, cats or other creatures getting in and fouling the inside. Incidentally, the netting also prevents birds flying in; sparrows, in particular, can get confused and frightened if they fly in and cannot see a way out. The bubble insulation also helps; birds can see it whereas they frequently fly against clear glass and harm themselves. During the growing season, the glasshouse is swept out frequently and dead foliage is removed at first sighting. HEATHERS FOR THE GLASSHOUSE: I. EUROPEAN HEATHERS For the amateur gardener, gardening has to be fun or it is nothing and so it is not possible or desirable to lay down rigid guide-lines for other gardeners to follow. The comments which follow are a reflection of my own interests — you may find some information or ideas of use. For me, a glasshouse is, first of all, a tool to make my hobby — heather growing — more successful and more pleasurable. I use it to protect tender seedlings and rooted cuttings, and, if there is room, to protect hardy heathers potted last season to grow on ready for planting in the spring My interest in heathers extends to all the European species, some of which are not hardy or are of doubtful hardiness in the part of England where I live. I use my glasshouse to protect the tender ones during the winter, AW, and specimens of the doubtful ones, in case those I have planted outside perish. Heathers that pass the test of hardiness differ in each country, and in each microclimate within those countries. So there is a sliding scale of hardiness relating to the southern European species which depends on locality and indeed on the microclimate of individual gardens. Experience is everything. Most of my experience was gained at our former home in Surrey where our sheltered garden was a bit of a frost pocket. I am experimenting anew in Loughborough. With these reservations in mind, the species, which I consider must be given winter protection are Daboecia azorica and Erica andevalensis, E. sicula, E. bocquetit, E. maderensis and E. multiflora. Thus, for example, I grow E. maderensis under glass in winter even though plants growing wild in the mountains of Madeira are sometimes covered in snow. Erica maderensis did not survive frosts in my garden in Surrey. Further north in England, this list can probably be extended to include E. /usitanica, E. australis, E. arborea and E. umbellata. Additionally, there are cultivars within nominally hardy species which need winter protection. For example, I have several plants of Erica ciliaris ‘Fada des Serras’, introduced by John Tucker and named by him after the place in Portugal where he discovered it. This heather is hardy in John’s lovely garden in Worthing where it is 2ft (0.6m) tall. It did not prove hardy for me in Surrey, 70 miles (85km) to the north. It now finds a place in my glasshouse while others are on trial in sheltered spots in my new garden even further north in Loughborough. Among the European heathers which I consider to be of doubtful hardiness in Loughborough and, therefore, in need of some winter protection is E. [usitanica, particularly the cultivar ‘George Hunt’. I would not be without E. lusitanica (my American west-coast friends will smile at this because, for them, it is a persistent weed), and if my caution proves unnecessary, what have | lost? And anyway, it makes a marvellous pot plant. I have doubts about the hardiness of the several subspecies of E. scoparia, subsp. azorica (from the Azores), subsp. platycodon (from the Canary Islands) and subsp. maderincola (from Madeira) Specimens enjoy the protection of my glasshouse while their siblings face the winter blast outside. | am sure that E. scoparia subsp. scoparia will survive outside; but in England it makes a straggly, unattractive plant, quite unlike the fine bush it forms in warmer climes. Moreover, it does not seed prolifically in England. Can it then be regarded as truly hardy? 18 I ensure the survival of my stock of E. x veitchit “Pink Joy’ and ‘Exeter’ by keeping specimens in the glasshouse. Some of the European species are easier to raise from seed than by cuttings; E. maderensis, E. umbellata and E. lusitanica are examples. The glasshouse is an important aid in nursing the seedlings. Incidentally, years ago, when I first acquired E. umbellata (see pp. 10 and 30), I followed my cautious practice of over-wintering specimens in the elasshouse. | found that the species was perfectly hardy in Surrey but the plants did need a well-drained soil. My pink and white varieties gave splendid displays of colour in April and May, and plenty of seeds later on. The seedlings have so far all borne pink flowers. A few European species of heather are difficult to obtain in this country. The best means of obtaining plants of the less usual ones is from fellow- members of the Heather Society. Plants are commonly exchanged or given away at meetings of local groups. HEATHERS FOR THE GLASSHOUSE: II. SOUTH AFRICAN HEATHERS During a recent visit to Ireland, members of the Society saw certain South African heathers growing in a garden just outside Dublin and plants of the same species also survive in favoured and sheltered spots around the south and west coasts of Britain (see Yearbook 1995). Most gardeners in Britain can only enjoy these plants if they have a glasshouse. As I write, in February, my glasshouse is both colourful and fragrant with the flowers of E. mollis, E. subdivaricata, E. canaliculata and the hybrid E. baccans x arborea. The flowers of E. versicolor are just coming out. Since there are at least 700 species to choose from, it is barely possible to do more than describe one or two here. Erica canaliculata (see Yearbook 1995, p. 20) is a tall growing shrub with pale pink flowers. It holds its blossom for about four months from late December onwards. It is perhaps the hardiest of the Cape heaths and has been grown outside in well-protected spots in the south and west and inner London. [have tried several times to grow it outside, all without success. In the wild, it grows to a height of 5 metres but it responds well to pruning and it is easy to propagate from cuttings. E. pageana (see Yearbook 1995, cover & p. 22) has lovely buttercup yellow flowers and a deep glossy foliage. It is also regarded as being at the hardier end of the range and flowers in England from January to April. It will make a bush of about 60cm and in its native clime grows in marshy areas 1,000m above sea level. E. baccans has pink bells (Fig. 4) and makes a very attractive glasshouse or conservatory plant. ig Fig. 4. Erica baccans: a single flower greatly enlarged. It flowers in the spring in England. In its native clime, it can reach a height of 2.5m and appears to prefer a well-drained soil. Cape heaths can grow tall but they respond well to pruning to keep them shapely and prevent them from out-growing the glasshouse. It is as well to keep taking cuttings from the rarer European heathers and the Cape heaths. This is easier said than done for many species, but propagation forms no part of this paper. CULTIVATION: I. ComposT & Pots Heathers grown in pots generally need an open, acid compost, and I prefer a 1:1 mixture of moss peat and medium grade Perlite™. The heathers are better grown ina lean compost, since if they grow slowly they will be hardier and more resistant to disease. However, the compost described is devoid of practically all nutrients and some fertiliser should be added: John Innes base fertiliser at the rate of 1 fluid oz (28.4ml) per gallon (4.55 litres), or a similar amount of Vitax 04 which contains some trace elements. Some heathers do better in a less acid and more sharply draining compost. These include E. bocquetii, E. umbellata, E. multiflora and (I suspect) 20 E. maderensis. A suitable compost for these is composed of equal amounts of moss peat, medium grade Perlite and low pH gravel, with the fertiliser as before. E. bocquetit grows in crevices in limestone cliffs and probably needs an alkaline soil but I have been unable to experiment with this species and so am reluctant to comment. Plastic pots are now commonly used though terracotta ones are better. Pale, terracotta-coloured plastic pots are marginally better than black ones because they do not absorb as much heat from the sun. Pots should always be thoroughly cleaned after each usage. Immature heathers will normally need re-potting each year, but judgement needs to be exercised. CULTIVATION: IT. WATERING Heathers, particularly Erica, are unforgiving if given too much or too little water and the first sign of trouble is usually the last — the plant dies. Knowing the needs and characteristics of the various species is part of the skill of the heather grower and this knowledge comes from experience. Normally, heathers should be watered by hand each according to its own characteristic need using “soft water’. Some heathers, for example the Cape species E. curviflora, need a lot of water. In its natural habitats, E. curviflora grows in and around the edges of streams. Some heathers do not like to be waterlogged and it is easy to kill these species by over-watering them. In summer the plants will need watering (but not waterlogging) every day, whether in the glasshouse or out of doors for their annual holiday. On bright or hot days when the heathers are in the glasshouse, plenty of water needs to be sprinkled on the floor and foliage to help keep the temperature down and the humidity high. In the depths of winter, the heathers should be checked every week but may not need watering more than once in every two or even three weeks. Vigorously growing plants obviously will need more water than ones making little growth. A good method of testing a pot is to weigh it in one’s hand — if it feels light it probably needs some water. Running a finger lightly in the top of the compost will also give some indication of its relative wetness. Whether the heathers are watered by hand or automatically, if the water contains lime, it will slowly, over a period of weeks cause chlorosis and the leaves of the plants will go yellow. This condition can be cured or anticipated by watering the plants with a solution of chelated iron from time to time. A tablespoon (= .50z, 14.2ml) of chelated iron to 1 gallon (4.55 litres) of water is about right. Soak the compost in the pots with this solution about once every six weeks, if use of hard water is unavoidable, or more frequently if symptoms of chlorosis appear. Da CULTIVATION: III. VENTILATION & CONTROL OF DISEASES & PESTS Heathers growing closely together in a glasshouse are more prone to insect damage or disease than ones growing outdoors. Good ventilation will help sweep away airborne pests and pestilence, help keep the glasshouse cool in summer and lower the humidity in winter. The glasshouse vents should be opened every day when the ambient temperature is above freezing. Glasshouse gardeners make a ritual of listening to the weather forecast every day. Professional growers make routine use of fungicides for plants in tunnels or under glass, spraying, or drenching every ten days. This is not normally necessary for amateurs. Never the less, I spray my plants with a systemic fungicide when they go into the glasshouse at the end of the summer and again, using a different fungicide, at Christmas. Some strains of fungi have become resistant to certain fungicides, so it pays to ring the changes. | also spray the plants with systemic insecticide shortly after they go into the glasshouse, and again if there are signs of trouble. CONCLUSION The main costs involved in growing heathers under glass are associated with the purchase of the glasshouse itself, the preparation of the site and the erection of the house. Everything else, including the plants, can be added progressively and the costs spread. Indeed it is better to start slowly and build up. The pleasures of glasshouse gardening also build up as the gardener adds plants to his collection and gains experience. a A TABLE OF HYBRID HEATHERS INVOLVING EUROPEAN SPECIES oe “|e ay cee ee ie a bergiana carnea spiculifolia vagans SUDIIVG publs.1aq DIUAVI SLUD1f19 Duaslia VILUVJISN] VUDIVYIVU SUDSVA vioyindiuwut pyofinoids Key to binomials 1% E. x darleyensis 5 E.x stuarti (formerly E. x praegert) 2 E. x griffithsit © EL xqveitehi 3 E. x kramer 7] eX WRLSOI 4+ 8 E. x oldenburgensis E. x williamsi Binomials have not yet been provided for E. arborea x baccans E. bergiana x spiculifolia E. tetralix x manipuliflora E. C. Nelson Mosieather soc. 19992 23-29 Propagation of heathers from seed. BARRY SELLERS 8 Croft Road, NORBURY, London SW16 3NF. The genus Erica is distributed from Norway to South Africa and comprises around 750 species. Hybrids are also known — some occur naturally, but most are the result of artificial inducement. Hybrids involving European species are tabulated opposite; only E. x stuarti, E. x watson and E. x williamsii occur in the wild, and the others have been induced by hand-pollination. Much of the hybridisation work was carried out in Europe in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. More recently at the National Botanical Institute, Kirstenbosch, South Africa, workers have succeeded in crossing several Cape heaths, including E. nana and E. patersonia ‘Gengold’, while Kurt Kramer in Germany has successfully hybridised European and southern African species. REPRODUCTION In their natural habitats, species of Erica are pollinated by a variety of different methods, by wind, insects and birds. Once pollinated the ovary swells until it is ripe, and turns brown. When ripe the seed capsule will open (dehisce) releasing the seed. Until recently the seeds of Erica species have received little attention from researchers, yet the seeds of different species vary considerably in size, colour and shape. E. carnea and E. erigena have large seeds compared to those of E. lusitanica and E. cinerea. The hard outer coating of different species gives rise to a range of surface sculpturing (Oliver 1991). Some seeds are slightly winged, no doubt to assist distribution in their natural habitats. The ability to reproduce by seed ensures the continued existence of each species. Fire plays an important part in the ecology of many African species, and the seeds of a vast majority of species germinate only after a fire. However, fire and its aftermath are not the only cues to germination. Warm and cold stratification, a fluctuating temperature regime, and moisture, have important roles to play. 24 Plants propagated from seed, whether from a species or a cultivar, will not normally reproduce exactly the characteristics of the parent plant. Thus propagation from seed can give rise to many interesting new forms. Seeds collected from plants growing in a garden will be more likely to give rise to different forms than seeds collected from wild populations. EUROPEAN HEATHERS COLLECTING SEED Seed may be obtained from all European species and many of their cultivars. The best time to collect seed is a few weeks after flowering. When ripe, ona dry day, capsules can suddenly dehisce releasing all their seed. Always remember that when collecting seeds they should be put in a dry container or envelope and labelled. A calendar for seed collection is given in Table 1. Hybrids of European heathers (e.g. E. x darleyensis) are normally sterile and therefore do not produce seed unless they are tetraploids. If you intend to attempt to produce particular progeny then the parent plant must be protected from pollination by insects, and must be hand- pollinated using pollen from another plant that also has not been visited by insects. Where pollen is taken from one species or cultivar and placed on the stigma of another there is potential for hybridisation. SOWING SEED The best time to sow seeds is in Spring or Autumn. Take a wooden or plastic seed tray 3—4in (75-100mm) deep, and place a .25in (Smm) layer of fine gravel in the bottom, and then a layer of washed potting grit .25—.5in (5-10mm) deep. Mix a proprietary ericaceous compost with Cornish grit (or fine granule Perlite) and/or fine washed potting grit, and silver sand ina ratio of 3:1:1:1 and fill remainder of seed tray. Soak seed tray in rainwater until the surface has become damp. Mix the seed with dry silver sand and sow evenly over the surface, and then sieve a thin layer (not more than cin (2-3mm) deep) of dry washed erit and/or silver sand over the surface; this will help to retain moisture and inhibit the growth of moss, as well as protect and cover the seeds. Label the seed tray, and place it on a bed of fine gravel within a larger tray which has been watered — this will allow a more even take-up of water by capillary action. Do not allow seed compost to dry out at any time, and do not keep the tray sitting in deep water. Mist-spray the surface of the compost, by hand, at least twice a day, and continue even after seeds have germinated; misting helps to keep the soil surface moist and cools the seedlings. Keep E. arborea E. australis E. bocquetti E. carnea E. ciliaris x E. cinerea E. erigena x @ E. lusitanica ee x | E. manipuliflora E. multiflora E. scoparia E. sicula E. spiculifolia E. terminalis E. tetralix E. umbellata E. vagans x = Flowering period @ = Seed collecting period Table 1. Months when seed can be collected from heathers 26 the seed tray ina shaded part of a well-ventilated greenhouse, out of intense direct sun, to prevent rapid evaporation from the soil surface and, when seedlings appear, prevent them drying out. After one to three months seed should have germinated. At first the seedlings have two green leaf-like cotyledons; then the true leaves appear. To prevent seedlings becoming too leggy, pinch out the tip if they are over lin (25mm) high. This will make them sprout side shoots and stimulate erowth. TRANSPLANTING Seedlings are ready for transplanting six months to one year after germination. Use a stainless steel household fork and/or skewer, or proprietary small gardening tool to prise seedlings from tray, taking great care to avoid damaging the roots which are normally much longer than the stem and will probably have reached the base of the seed tray. If you need to hold a seedling, hold it by the leaves at the very tip of the shoot. Mix ericaceous compost with Cornish grit (or fine granule Perlite) and silver sand in a ratio of 3:1:1, adding a little fertilizer (it is best to use eranules, and follow the instructions of the manufacturer). Use this to fill small 3in (75mm) pots or compartmented seed trays. Soak the filled pots or trays in rainwater until surface is moist. Use a dibber or a finger to make a deep hole in the compost, insert one seedling, and firm the compost lightly around it. Spray with water and place the pots or trays ina larger tray filled with fine gravel, and keep watered. Do not allow the soil in the pots or trays to dry out, nor to sit in deep water. SOUTH AFRICAN HEATHERS South African heathers — Cape heaths — have been grown in Europe for about two hundred years. Interest has now extended to the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Japan. In parts of Australia and New Zealand, some Cape species (e.g. E. baccans) have become naturalised. These heaths display fascinating and substantial variation in the shape, colour and size of their flowers and leaves, so potential choice is considerable. They also represent a challenge in cooler climates due to their susceptibility to frost, although many will withstand temperatures as low as —5°C without damage. The best way of raising South African heathers is from seed, primarily because it is readily available. Methods of propagation are discussed below. OBTAINING & COLLECTING SEED Use seed from reliable sources (see Appendix), or collect it from your own plants in the same way as for European heathers. Note that the capsules of some species such as E. pageana dehisce soon after pollination, whereas those of E. sessiliflora take much longer to mature. Some seed capsules, such as those of E. hebecalyx, are very sticky and this can make seed collecting difficult. GERMINATING CAPE HEATH SEEDS Extensive research has been undertaken by the Conservation Biology Unit at the National Botanical Institute in South Africa into the germination of Cape heaths. Most South African heathers inhabit the fynbos, a characteristic of which is recurring fires. Thus fynbos plants, including heathers, are adapted so that their seed germinates in response to one or more cues provided by fire. Professor Neville Brown (1993, 1994) has been foremost in the research to discover which aspects of fire stimulate seeds to germinate. It was found that smoke itself is the main cue responsible for stimulating the germination of seed of many heathers (Brown at alii 1993, 1995). This research is of immense importance for the conservation of the South African Erica species. In addition to smoke inducement, warm and cold stratification (i.e. the exposure of seeds to alternate periods of relatively high and low temperatures) may be a pre-requisite to germination in some Cape heaths. Certainly a fluctuating temperature regime appears to be important; constant high temperature is not a pre-requisite for germination, and experience has shown that germination can occur at quite low temperatures. Seeds of EF. glauca germinated in December in an unheated greenhouse in Britain, six months after being treated with smoke solution. Other factors postulated as cues for germination include dry-heat fracturing the hard outer coating of the seed, stimulation by ethylene and ammonia (constituents of smoke), and the gibberellins produced by naturally-occurring fungi. Experiments by J. G. C. Small and his colleagues demonstrated that a good germination of E. junonia was obtained at a moderately low temperature (10-12°C) in the presence of gibberellic acid, but higher temperatures impaired germination (Small et alii 1982). Researchers at Kirstenbosch have developed and patented ‘instant dehydrated smoke’ as an alternative to producing smoke by burning fynbos or ericaceous plant material —- see Deon Kotze’s article in the Yearbook of The Heather Society 1996. 28 Seeds of Cape heaths will normally begin to germinate in about 8 weeks, although some species may take up to one year. Some are extremely difficult to germinate at all because multiple cues are required to break their dormancy, so some species are more easy to germinate than others. The following species are suggested for beginners: E. baccans, E. caffra, E. fontana, E. oatesi1, E. patersonia and E. walkeria. Of the two methods of germinating seed using smoke-inducement, one, ‘live’ smoke-inducement’, is explained below; ‘instant dehydrated’ smoke-inducement was explained by Kotze (1996). ‘LIVE’ SMOKE-INDUCEMENT Prepare seed compost using peat, Cornish grit and/or washed potting grit and silver sand in the ratio of 3:1:1:1, although a higher proportion of sand may be desired. Fill a 3in or 4in (75 or 100mm) seed tray with .25 -.5in (5-10mm) of washed potting grit and the remainder with compost. Mix the seed with dry silver sand and sow evenly on the surface, lightly cover and label the tray; a hand-written plastic label will suffice. Place the seed tray in an enclosed box or polythene tent (see Fig. 1); several seed trays may be prepared at the same time and stacked inside the box. Prepare a fire using mainly fynbos or ericaceous plant material, and pass the smoke from fire through a pipe into the box or polythene tent for 30 minutes and then leave for about 2-3 hours. Remove the tray from the box or polythene tunnel and soak in rainwater until the surface is moist. Sieve dry silver sand or fine grit over surface (0.1in (1-2mm) deep) to help deter moss, and retain moisture. Place the seed tray in one filled with fine gravel and store in well-ventilated ereenhouse, protected from direct sun. Spray surface of compost at least twice daily. In the winter months considerably less watering is required, and try to maintain temperatures above 0°C. Fungi can be harmful to young seedlings; it may be necessary to use a weak solution of fungicide (e.g. Diathane M45) to prevent damping off. When the seedlings are about 1in (25mm) tall consider transplanting them into 3in (75mm) pots. The roots of Cape heaths tend to be even more susceptible to damage than their European counterparts, so take extreme care in easing seedlings out of the seed trays — use a household fork. Often the depth of the roots will be three times the height of the seedling. Ensure that the compost is moist before transplanting, and keep moist. It is possible to add fertilizer granules to the compost when mixing it, or, alternatively, feed with a proprietary Ericaceous fertilizer according to the manufacturers instructions. 29 Heat Resistant 75-100mm dia. Tube Fynbos or Ericaceous 5 BY. Material ote pe. Timber Box : or Polythene Aluminium Burner Stacked Seed Trays Fig. 1. Possible arrangement for smoking seed. References BROWN, N. A. C. 1993. Promotion of germination of fynbos seeds by plant-derived smoke. New phytologist 123: 575-583. -1994. First the gas, now instant dehydrated smoke. Veld & flora 80(3):72-73. -BOTHA, P. A. & PROSCH, D. 1995. Where there’s aroke: The garden 120: 402—405. -KOTZE, G. & BOTHA, P. A. 1993. The Pee omotion of seed germination of Cape Erica species by plant-derived smoke. Seed science & techii 08y 21: 57 femal KOTZE, D. 1996. Improved seed germination of £ Cape Ex Eri a species by plant-derived smoke. Yearbook of the Heather Societ 37-38 OLIVER, E. G. H. 1991. The Fricoideae (Ericaceae) — a review. Contributions from the Bolus Herbarium 13: 158-208. SMALL, J. A. C., ROBBERTSE, P. J.. GROBBELAAR, N. & BADENHORST, C. N. 1982. The effect of time of application and sterilization method of gibberellic acid, and temperature on the seed germination of Erica junonia, an endang sered species. South African Journal o botany 1: 139-141. APPENDIX Seed of Cape heaths can be obtained from the Botanical Society of South Africa. The Society distributes seeds of many indigenous species to memb ly details of membership please contact: Member ship Secretary, Beil ees of South. Ame C ] cule 7 7\ 91 7oav7onNaNn FIZ. Private Bag X7, Kirstenbosch, Claremont 7735, Republic of South Africa. tel. (+2; @ os '@) 4 4 ©) 4 d (a6) <_ (as) = + er] 0 b 30 Erica umbellata in central Ireland. KEITH LAMB Woodfield, CLARA, County Offaly, Ireland. We garden on a limestone soil in one of the colder parts of Ireland, and so are limited in the number of heathers we can grow. Therefore we were pleased to acquire an additional kind that would live in our garden. For 12 years now we have cultivated a lime tolerant species that does not seem to be widely grown. This is Erica umbellata, a native of Portugal and the north of Spain. In that time it has formed a rounded bush some 20 inches high (50cm), with tiny imbricate leaves. As the name indicates, the flowers are borne in umbels of up to 8 flowers. In our plant these flowers are nearer to the rosy pink colour described in Bean (1973) than to the rosy purple mentioned by Polunin & Smythies (1973). Colour variations could be found in the wild. We have heard of white-flowered forms, and though we did not find such a plant we did note a distinctly pale specimen in northern Portugal. Bean refers to the growth habit as varying to semi-prostrate, so there would seem to be scope to select for plant shape as well as flower colour. Woodfield is in the centre of Ireland, a cold area compared to the coastal districts noted for gardens containing frost-sensitive plants. Winter temperatures here go to—-5°C, and annual rainfall is c. 40 inches (c. 1000mm). Last Spring (1998) late frosts badly damaged plants never seen injured before (e.g. Bergenia). Though E. umbellata is said to be tender it was uninjured. An added attraction of E. umbellata is that it blooms in May and June, when flowers are scarce in the heather garden. Perhaps the abundance of other flowers at that time has led to this heather being overlooked by the general gardener. The RHS plant finder lists half a dozen nurseries that supply this species, all but one entered as being heather specialists. It is interesting to speculate whether a race of lime tolerant heathers could be raised utilising E. umbellata as a parent. Perhaps modern techniques of pollen storage could be employed to bridge the gap between this species and earlier flowering kinds. References BEAN, W. J. 1973. Trees and shrubs hardy in the British Isles. Vol. II. London: J. Murray. POLUNIN, O. & SMYTHES, B. E. 1973. Flowers of south-west Europe. London: OUP. Yb. Heather Soc. 1999: 31-35 A DABEOCIAN MISCELLANY Two St Dabeoc’s heaths from Seattle. ARTHUR P. DOME 4832 54th Avenue South, SEATTLE, WA 98119-1517, USA. I have not found any Daboecia in any literature available to me that has a description that comes close to matching the pink-tipped one (Fig. 1) for which I propose the new cultivar name “Pink Lips’. | acquired it as a small plant at some type of horticultural group meeting in Washington or Oregon. This is the first time I ever paid much attention to the flowers on it and I do not know the original source of it. It starts to bloom about 1** May. The lobes at the tip of the corolla turn pink as the white flower matures. After a while, maybe four or five weeks, the pink colour starts to fade away. In new flowers, the pink in the corolla is very light and does not last long after the corolla opens. My plant is four or five years old. | shear most of my heather plants hard back. At the present time (end of August), the plant is still producing new flowers at the tips of the flower spikes, and is about 24 inches (60cm) across and about 18 ins (40cm) high. The new growth for this year ranges up to 16 ins (35cm) including the terminal flower spikes. With proper grooming in the Spring, it develops into a nice full plant with bright green foliage. The second Daboecia of interest is lilac coloured (Fig. 2). Steve Hootman, Curator, Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden, Seattle, got the seed in 1992 from the North American Rock Garden Society seed exchange program. It was sent to the exchange by Jolyon Lea of Amersham, Buckinghamshire, as D. azorica (see the following editorial note). It is becoming a very satisfactory garden plant in our area because people seem to like the shade of lilac in the flower, and it tends to be more compact. The cultivar name ‘Seattle Lilac’ has been registered for this excellent heather. As I| try to look back, I can remember, while in my ‘teens, I was in a neighbor's garden and broke off a sprig of Erica vagans “St Keverne’ for a close-up look. I was really fascinated by the multitude of tiny, delicate, perfect pink flowers, each with the little dark brown ring just outside the corolla formed by the anthers. This aroused my curiosity and interest in observing the flowers and close-ups of other heather species. It also presented a challenge for me to try to learn more about them. Fig. 1. Daboecia cantabrica “Pink Lips’ Fig. 2. Daboecia x scotica ‘Seattle Lilac’ (photograph Art Dome). (photograph E. C. Nelson). My garden and its environment will not allow me to grow all the Calluna, Daboecia and Erica plants I would like to. That is why I take any opportunity to take close-up photographs of any cultivar I do not have in my collection. And that is why seeing the wonderful selection of South African Erica specimens from Kirstenbosch at the Heather Society’s 1995 annual conference in Ireland was one of the many exciting events I have experienced. It gave me the opportunity to add many close-up photographs of these plants I might never have been able to get. An editorial intervention I contacted Jolyon Lea about the seed and he kindly informed me (in /itt. 11 September 1997) that the plant from which Art Dome’s seed came was given to him by his brother in 1981: “He tells me that the plant he gave me was a cutting of a plant he was given in 1973 by Terry Underhill. ... My plant is flourishing after 16 years, growing among other ericaceous plants in the 33 shade of a 10-foot Erica arborea and flowers for months on end.’ Mr Lee’s plant is growing in a heavy flinty clay, well above the underlying chalk, with an Escallonia hedge to the south and a tall tree heath, Erica arborea (c. 4m tall) overshadowing it. In the Autumn 1998, Jolyon Lee sent me specimens of his seed parent. While its flowers were entirely devoid of glandular hairs (a character of D. azorica), the flower colour (purple) and especially the fact that the plant blooms continuously into Autumn, strongly points to D. x scotica. As noted by McClintock (1978), D. azorica blooms in British gardens around the end of May; in its native habitats it is in bloom in mid-June and early July. Thus, while Jolyon Lea's seed has been distributed as D. azorica by the North American Rock Garden Society, seedlings (such as ‘Seattle Lilac’) raised from this seed should be re-labelled Daboecia x scotica. This leads me to another point. For a long time it has been said that most, if not all, plants in British gardens at the present time labelled D. azorica are mis-labelled, and are usually hybrids, variants of D. x scotica (this can be traced back at least to Terry Underhill’s book, Heaths and heathers (1971: 203). I repeated this comment at the Heather Society’s annual conference in Norwich in September last, and am delighted that it provoked comments including the following from Dr John Griffiths (see p. 34). [have also spoken with Barry Starling, who had written to The Editor of The garden (February 1998), stating that both D. azorica and the Azorean subspecies of Erica scoparia had thriven in his garden in Essex for many years. Davoecia azorica has, an exaggerated reputation for tenderness. It is one of the few ericaceous plants which thrived for me in full sun in Essex. The secret is to plant it where the wood of the branches is fully ripened by the sun before winter. Soft tips may be damaged by frost but in all but the most severe winters the little shrub sprouts and grows away in the spring.’ (Starling 1998) Fig. 3. Daboecia azorica in B. Starling’s garden. 34 The evidence accumulating indicates that at least one hardy clone of indubitable D. azorica survives in cultivation. There is some circumstantial evidence (see Dr John Griffiths’ account, following) that this plant is a relict of the McClintock and Richards 1974 “expedition” to the Azores (see Richards 1976). However in 1969, McClintock did note plants of ‘what look like D. azorica’ in gardens at Corbridge in England and in Mrs Dorothy Metheny’s Seattle garden (described in detail in Metheny 1991). As Mrs Metheny obtained her plant in 1963, there is a distinct possibility that more than one clone is in cultivation and that one is of quite ancient vintage, perhaps from the original 1929 introduction (McClintock 1969). The matter will only be resolved when material of all surviving plants of this hardy, dwarf St Dabeoc’s heath are gathered together in one place, erown on and studied. E. C. Nelson A hardy form of Daboecia azorica. J. GRIFFITHS 9 Ashlea Close, Garforth, LEEDS LS25 1JX. History I obtained my plant as a small unflowered seedling from Geoff Yates at Tabramhill Gardens in August 1980. He said that it was from material collected in the Azores by David McClintock, so I presume it was from seed rather than cutting material. I kept the plant in a cold greenhouse for one year and then planted it outside with full exposure to Yorkshire winters (my garden suffers a lot from late frosts and never a year goes by without Pieris having its new spring erowth destroyed). There it grew slowly for about 10 years, flowering every year and only reaching a size of about 6 inches high by 10 inches across (15 x 25cm). It eventually succumbed in 1990, but by then I had ready another plant from the cold greenhouse which had been taken as a cutting from the original plant. This time I planted it in a well-drained position facing northwest against a rock. It has thrived there ever since 1990 and flowers every year profusely. It is currently 6 inches high by about 12 inches spread (15 x 30cm) and never needs any pruning. Rooted cuttings have been given to Allen Hall in the past and he now has a small number of plants. A plant was given to David Small at the Norwich 1998 Conference, and he will be 8D propagating from this. I currently have in addition to the outdoor plant two 4 inch (10cm) rooted cuttings under glass which have yet to flower. CHARACTERISTICS The bell flowers are cerise (H6) and appear around the end of May, always two to three weeks earlier than D. cantabrica or D. x scotica. The flowers persist long enough for them to overlap with the early flowers of the latter two species. The flowers are fertile and set seed, both by deliberate self-pollination and by deliberate pollination with D. cantabrica pollen. I carried out one controlled experiment two years ago, pollinating clean D. azorica stigmas with pollen from D. x scotica “Silverwells’. The seed germinated but the seedlings perished. The flowering stems of the plant are relatively short and this gives the plant a very “covered” look when in full flower, compared to D. cantabrica and D. x scotica. Once flowering has finished (after about three to four weeks) the plant never shows another flower for the rest of the season. PROPAGATION As mentioned, D. azorica can be propagated from seed, but I have yet to do this. Cuttings are not difficult to root, but it is hard to find good cutting material on the outdoor plants due to the woodiness of the stems and the short new growth. Plants grown under glass in low light yield longer stems that are easier to root. Once rooted, the cuttings are difficult to establish — they need good drainage but must not dry out. This is the main reason for the small number of plants that I have been able to produce. References McCLINTOCK, D. 1969. Daboecia azorica and its hybrids with D. cantabrica. Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society 94: 449-453. McCLINTOCK, D. 1978. St. Dabeoc’s heaths and their hybrids. The garden 103: 114-116. METHENY, D. 1991. Hardy heather species and some related plants. Seaside, Oregon: Frontier Publishing. RICHARDS, D. A. 1976. Mostly Erica maderensis and Daboecia azorica. Yearbook of The Heather DOGIEHYE2 (o) LOO STARLING, B. 1998. Souvenirs of the Azores. The garden 123 (2): 121. UNDERHILL, T. L. 1971. Heaths and heathers. 1*t edition. Newton Abbot: David & Charles. 36