AIEREDOdi

CAHyAItiQ

I

;

A YEAR IN BRAZIL

a

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2016

https://archive.org/details/yearinbrazilwithOOdent

A YEAR IN BRAZIL

WITH NOTES ON THE

ABOLITION OF SLAVERY , THE FINANCES

OF THE EMPIRE , RELIGION, &
METEOROLOGY, NATURAL hY$$OR K

ETC SN ^

21&

v**"

HASTINGS CHARLES DENT

LONDON

KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., i, PATERNOSTER SQUARE

1886

( The rights of translation and qf reproduction are reserved.")

TO

THE LADY BEAUJOLOIS E. C. DENT

THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED,

AS A TRIBUTE OF

RESPECT, DEVOTION, AND GRATITUDE,

BY HER DUTIFUL SON,

THE AUTHOR.

b

©iv Gi-nc^X'io Uc' oi MC/ndo

Cidvocyxdo

PREFACE.

In offering this book as a slight contribution to the biblio-
graphy of Brazil I must claim indulgence for many short-
comings. It is merely intended as a sketch ; but, in addition
to the journal, which is almost entirely formed of letters
written home, I have added short notes on various subjects,
which I hope may be of interest to many different classes
of readers.

Before starting for Brazil — which I did at a week’s
notice — I received letters from scientific friends intimating
that they expected me to carry on extensive researches,
make collections, and take notes on most of the branches
of natural science. Each of the subjects would have been
sufficient to occupy my whole time ; but I went out for a
special purpose, to survey for a railway, in a position of
considerable responsibility, and unexpected duties and
anxieties devolved upon me. Respecting this work, which
engrossed my attention and, of course, most of my time,
I am thankful to say I was enabled to carry it out satis-
factorily; but in my book, for many reasons, I have refrained
from treating on that subject in detail.

All botanists know the labour entailed by the pre-
servation of plants, and will understand why I was unable
to do what I could have wished in that line.

PREFACE.

viii

As regards Entomology, I took every opportunity of
collecting everything that I was able to obtain ; and my
workmen, knowing my predilection, continually brought
me specimens.

I must here express my deep gratitude to Senhor
Vicente de Azevedo Souza, of Pitanguy, Minas Geraes, who
collected many insects and birds while he was with me
in camp near the Serra do Cortume, in August and
September, 1883 ; and subsequently sent me some fifteen
hundred specimens of Coleoptera, with a few Lepidoptera
and other insects, from Pitanguy.

The notes on the climatology of the mountain districts,
where I resided from July, 1883, to May, 1884, at a mean
altitude of three thousand feet above the sea level, will, I
hope, be found of some interest.

I must refer to two very valuable works from which
I have quoted largely : Professor Emanuel Liais’s* “ Climats,
Geologie, Faune, et Geographic botanique du Bresil ” (Paris,
1872), and Captain Richard F. Burton’s t ‘‘Explorations of
the Highlands of Brazil” (London, 1869, 2 vols.). The former
is exclusively scientific, and very important as a book of
reference. The latter, though published sixteen years ago,
might have been produced yesterday as far as life in the
interior is concerned. Both these works are most charm-
ingly written, and I must here express the great obligation
I am under to these two gentlemen, as well as to Mr.
H. W. Bates, for most generously giving me special per-
mission to make extracts from their respective volumes.

* Late Director of the Imperial Observatory at Rio de Janeiro, Astronomer
of the Observatory at Paris, etc.

f Now Sir Richard F. Burton, K.C.M.G.

PREFACE.

IX

Captain Burton, whose knowledge of languages is
perhaps unequalled, and who is well known for the daring
explorations and expeditions which he has carried out,
travelled from Rio de Janeiro, via Petropolis, Juiz de Fora,
Barbacena, Sao Joao * del Rey, and Olhos d’Agua, to Cou-
gonhas do Campo, and thence by the Rio das Velhas to
its junction with the Rio Sao Francisco, which river he
followed some fifteen hundred miles to its embouchure in the
province of Bahia. The earlier part of his journey often
crossed the districts I visited and worked on, as will be
seen by reference to the map ; and for this reason I detail
his route.

To attempt to rival such a book as Captain Burton’s,
much less M. Liais’s scientific work, would be an imperti-
nence ; but if my modest journal be a means of passing
a few pleasant hours, and if my notes can add anything
to the store of general knowledge, I shall be content.

Although insects only were my special object, I have
given the names of the species of all the various orders
collected or noticed by me, as far as 1 have been able to
determine them. They include —

Mammals

Species.
... 2 3

Birds

35

Reptiles

ii

Molluscs ...

25

Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths)

... 408

Coleoptera

402

Other insects, etc.

128

Plants ... ... ... .:.

about 100

Total ... 1132

Pronounced Saong Jodotig.

X

PREFACE.

In conclusion, I must express the sense of my great
indebtedness to my mother, who has afforded me invalu-
able help by her suggestions on the manuscript, and by her
assistance in correcting the proof-sheets ; to Messrs. Ross
and Mathews, my employers, for their unvarying kindness
and consideration during the time I was engaged working
for them ; and to Mr. James Cosmo Melvill, M.A., F.L.S. ;
as also to the other gentlemen whose names are appended.

To Mr. Melvill, with whom I have been in constant
correspondence ; who has set his large entomological,
conchological, and botanical collections at my disposal, and
has, with the most unvarying patience, assisted me by his
advice in many matters.

To Mr. W. F. Kirby, from whose books and personal
kindness I have derived the greatest help.

To Mr. James Britten, F.L.S., Mr. H. N. Ridley, M.A.,
F.L.S., and Mr. W. Carruthers, F.R.S., of the Botanical
Department, British Museum, who have devoted much
time to naming my plants.

And to Mr. C. O. Waterhouse, for his benevolent assist-
ance with the Coleoptera.

HASTINGS CHARLES DENT.

20, Thurloe Square, London, S.W.,
March , 1886.

CONTENTS.

»o«

CHAPTER I.

OUTWARD BOUND.

Off— Land’s End— Sounding— The Gironde— Bordeaux— Civil marriage
—Electric light— Bay of Carril— Vigo— Emigrants— Lisbon— Peak
of Teneriffe — St. Paul’s Rocks— Fernando de Neronha— Abrolhos

PAGE

I

CHAPTER II.

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ.

Bay of Rio de Janeiro— The town— Jardim Botanico— Railway journey to
Carandahy — Scenery — Fellow-travellers — Hotel — Ride to Queluz —
Engineers — Ox-carts — Paraopeba ... ■■■ ••• ••• I9

CHAPTER III.

PRELIMINARY EXPLORATIONS.

Exploring the first section— Village of Serra— Brumado— Road to
Suassuhy— Canyons— Fazenda da Boa Vista— Preparations for work
—Back to Rio— Hill of Sta. Theresa— Return to Minas Geraes ... 35

CHAPTER IV.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

A friend in need — A curious letter — Postal delinquencies — Delays — John
Baptist — Orioles — Pedra Branca — Such a funny cat — An old fazenda
— An awkward position — Fazenda do Campo Novo — Capella Nova
City of Rio de Peixe— Camp— Bad bridges— A roadside farm—
Fazenda da Mata— Patriarchal customs— Longevity— A welcome hut
— Cajuru— Politics— A pleasant Sunday— Goitres— Fazenda Fruc-
tuoso— Sao Gomjalo da Para — A ride round — I orture of an arma-
. dillo— The priest— Camp— Poisoned fish— The colonel— Valley of
Rio de Peixe ... ... ••• ••• 4^

CONTENTS.

xii

CHAPTER V.

I COMMENCE CAMP LIFE.

PACE

Pitching camp — A friend in need — Exploring on the divide — Ride to
Sao Amaro — Small-pox — Cutting through the forest — Church
service — Difficulty of transport — Arrival of Vicente — Invasion by
ants — Religious customs — Procession — Food — Native cookery —

Birds of prey — Invasion by a wolf and an 0119a ... ... 75

CHAPTER VI.

SPRING-TIME AND BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

Bees — Virgin forest — Variety of food — I eat ants — A fine sunset — Vicente
leaves — Mr. Roberts arrives — Picnics — Fazenda do Cortume — Botany
— Visitors — Heavy rain — Traffic begins on high roads — -Death and
funeral of the Major do Cortume — Requiem Mass — Native cookery
- — The dinner-hour — Spring-time — Voracious ants — Fine nights —
Grandiloquent names — Casa Grande — Life in a native house —
Musical evenings ... ... ... ... ... ... 89

CHAPTER VII.

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO.

My horse falls with me — A terrific storm — My maggot — A swamp —
Working in the rain — Steamy damp and its effects — A talk with
neighbours — Shifting camp under difficulties — Visitors — Christmas —

Fruit and vegetables — Feast of the three kings — Rain-bound — A
fearful day’s work — Cultivation — Population and immigration — A
sour old priest — An interesting family — Caught by a storm — Last
day’s work — Paying off my men ... ... ... ... 118

CHAPTER VIII.

LIFE IN ENl'RE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

Kind reception — Settling down — Improved health — An accomplished
musician — Matrimony — John Baptist and his family — Illness amongst
the staff — My slave — Church service — The post-office — Native in-
dolence— A visit from Brazilian engineers — Food again — Mr. Roberts
leaves — Description of Brumado — Railway time-table — Butterflies —
Plard work — A lunar rainbow — Lent services — Foreign wanderers —
Guavas and other fruit — A child’s funeral— Bronchitis — Rejoicings
on passing of plans for first section — Services and processions during
Holy Week — My guests — Spiritual relationship — An interesting

CONTENTS.

xin

conversation on religion — Easter Day — Handsome butterflies
Padre Pinto— Scarcity of stars in southern hemisphere— The month
of May — A short but agreeable outing — Death of the Duke of Albany
— Manufacture of butter — The harvest — Tired of this village The
intense cold — Woollen clothing — Bidding farewell At Queluz
Journey down to Rio ... ... •••

CHAPTER IX.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

Carson’s Hotel — The hospital — Nichteroy — Botafogo Fishermen
Pedlars — Table of sunrise and sunset — Resignation of Lafayette
Ministry — Confiscation of convent property — Public assassination •
Dantas forms a cabinet — News of Pitcairn Islands — A railway undei
the bay — Fruit — A bull-fight — St. Peter’s Day — View from the
Morro do Castello — The Bay of Botafogo — Bribery and corruption
— Yellow fever

CHAPTER X.

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

Ascent of the Corcovado — Mountain railway in construction — Farewell
dinner- — S. Luiz theatre — Visit to SS. Cotopaxi — Anniversary of
taking the Bastile — Our office — Americans — Trip to Petropolis —
Splendid scenery — The village — A beautiful walk — Cotton-mill —
Waterfall — Trip to Tijuca- — Whyte’s Hotel — Waterworks and reser-
voirs— Second ascent of Corcovado — The aqueduct — Last look
round — Farewell ... ... ... ... ••• 204

ADDITIONAL NOTES ON RIO DE JANEIRO.

Foundation of the city three hundred years ago— Struggle between the
French and Portuguese — Tramways — Water supply — Passeio Pub-
lico— -Campo de Acclama^ao — The carnival — Lotteries ... ... 228

CHAPTER XI.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Bahia— Upper and lower town— The market — A city of negroes— Per-
nambuco— Coral reef — Catamarans — -Perilous landing — A market on
board — Rainy season — St. Vincent, Cape Verds — Diving boys — Off
Teneriffe — Quarantine at Lisbon — At Pauillac — Visit to vineyards—
Home once more ... ... ... ... ... ••• 241

Log of Outward Passage ... ... ... ... ... 257

Log of Return Passage ... ... ... ... ... 25S

XIV

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX I.

NOTES ON THE PROVINCE OK MINAS GERAES.

FAGK

Early colonization— Area — Mountain ranges — Rivers — Industries — Mines
— Representation — Curious names of places — Ecclesiastical division
— Population — Railways .. ... ... ... ... 259

NOTE ON FERNANDO DE NERONHA.

Position and geological formation — Description of a visit to the island in
1745 — Harbours — Barrenness — Inhabitants — Food — Eish — Stringent
regulations — Visit of the Challenger .. ... ... ... 272

RELIGION.

Appeal for charitable views — The Eucharist — Certain points of the
Roman faith considered — Cult of the saints in Brazil — Reading the
Bible — The atonement of Christ — Unity of Christendom — Doctrine
— Charity ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 275

SLAVERY.

Movement for abolition — Law of September 28, 1871 — Gradual emanci-
pation— Extracts from local newspapers (translated) — Emancipation
Fund — Instances of liberation by will — Remarks on liberation
— Socialism — Assassinations — Freed slaves in Rio — Teaching and
practices of abolitionists — Abolition of slavery in certain provinces —
Difficulties considered — Legislation of the Dantas Cabinet — Im-
portant bill introduced, July 15, 1884 — -Local opinion — Obstruction
— Fall of Dantas — Appeal to the country — English opinions — Return
of Dantas to power, March, 1885 — Second overthrow, May, 1885
— Saraiva accepts office — Introduces a bill of great promise —
Abstract of the measure — Foreign criticisms — Resignation of Saraiva
Ministry, August 16 — Conservative Cabinet formed by Baron de
Cotegipe — -Emancipation bill passed, September 24 — Receives im-
perial assent, September 28, 1885 ... ... ... ... 281

THE ORIGIN OF SAVAGE COMMUNITIES OR TRIBES BY DEGRADATION.

Man a family of one genus — His origin revealed — Fossil remains show

high development — Degradation — How produced ... ... 296

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

The kilometric system — Native measures — Long measure — Square
measure — Cubic measure — Wine measure — Avoirdupois — Diamond
weights — Gold weights ... ... ... ... ... 299

Notes on the Decimal System ... ... .. ... ... 300

CONTENTS.

xv

COINAGE AND CURRENCY.

PAGE

Scarcity of silver — Description of silver and copper coinage, white metal
tokens, and notes — Almost exclusive use of bank and Treasury notes
— Calling in older issues — Use up country — Large issue of copper in
I 829— Depreciation of the milreis — The currency on the Amazons ... 301

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL.

A theoretical Budget — Classification of the Budgets of the empire from
its foundation, 1823— 1883, with deficits and explanations Expenses
of colonization and public works — Foreign and home debt of
^56,000,000 — Extravagance and bad management — Increasing cost
of officials — The administration considered, with suggestions as to

reforms — Future of the empire — Outlook for investors ... ... 3°4

Table showing realized loans .. ... ••• 312

Postscript — *The Budget of 1885-1886 ... ... ••• 3*3

Report of the Finance Minister, 1885 ... ••• ••• 3H

APPENDIX II.

A SEVERE WINTER IN MINAS GERAES.

The winter of 1870 — Mean temperature of the table-lands — Extreme cold
in Minas — No abnormal temperature elsewhere — Destruction of
plantations, fish, and forests — Streams frozen — Deaths from cold —
Explanation of the phenomena ... ... ••• 31(^

HAIL, STORMS, RAIN, AND MISTS.

Falls of hail — Large hailstones — Lightning — Storms diminish in frequency
towards the equator — Mists constant on the great rivers — Variation
of the flora on river-banks from that of campos ... ... ... 3*9

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES IN MINAS GERAES.

Minimum and maximum thermometers — Barometrical readings — Remarks

on the weather ... ... ... ... ... ... 322

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT BOTAFOGO.

Rio de Janeiro ... ... ... ... ... ••• ••• 34 1

SHORT NOTES ON ANIMALS, BIRDS, AND REPTILES.

Monkeys — Marmosets — Bats — Blood-sucking and fruit-eating habits of
vampires — Capybara — Baca— Coali — Ounces — Indian etymology —
Several species — Ocelot — Lobo, or wolf — Wolf-fruit tree — Edentates
— Ant-eaters — Armadillos, genera, species, habitats, etc. — Sloths —

XVI

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Ai — Birds — Names and synonyms of a few species observed —

Hanging nests — Oven bird — Humming-birds — Urubu vultures and
toucans — Reptilia — Lizards — Snakes — Snake and frog — -Rattle-
snakes— Cures for bites — Tortoise — Horned toad ... ... 345

List of Shells from the Bay of Botafogo ... ... ... ... 3C8

NOTES ON INSECTS.

Lepidoptera- — List of 259 butterflies collected by author ... ... 369

List of sixty-two butterflies, described as from Minas Geraes, not in

author’s collection ... ... ... ... ... ... 374

List of 149 moths collected by author ... ... ... ... 376

THE THEORY OF EVOLUTION.

Mr. W. C. Hewitson on Evolution — Objection to the theory — Harmony
between revelation and nature — The reason of conflicting opinions
— Unity and variety — Evolution insufficient to account for natural
phenomena — The theory not proven — Degeneration — Man and his
capabilities — The study of nature leads to the worship of the
Creator ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 379

PROTECTIVE COLOURING AND MIMICRY.

Instances among butterflies, moths, beetles, grasshoppers — Phasmidae —

The theory of the phenomena considered — A plea for moderation of
language in controversy — The argument of Design in Nature ... 384

List of 402 beetles collected by author ... ... ... ... 389

Notes on a few of the Coleoptera ... ... ... ... .. 397

NOTES ON OTHER INSECTS.

Bees and wasps1 — Ants — The umbrella ant — Termites — Distribution of
Orthoptera — Cockroaches — Locusts and grasshoppers — Homoptera
— Cicadas — Hemiptera — Spiders — Bird-eating Mygale ... ... 399

THE PARASITIC TORMENTS OF BRAZIL.

Carrapatos — Descriptions and remarks by various authors — Our expe-
rience— Jiggers — Various appellations — Their attacks and excision
— Bernos — A fearful infliction — Their habits ... ... ”... 407

NOTES ON BOTANY.

Marked difference in flora of campos and valleys — Campos — Thickets
— Forests — Description of the two sketches — Difficulties of collecting
— Brief summary of various genera, with localities — List of specimens
collected — Description of a new orchid— Notes on vegetables and
fruits ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 41 1

CONTENTS.

NOTES ON GEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICTS VISITED.

Limestone caves— Metalliferous region— Gneissic formations— Occur-
rence over large area — Their decomposition on a gigantic scale in
Brazil — Production of canyons by deluges of the wet seasons —
Erosion of valleys — Watersheds of rivers changed — Fantastic rocks
— Corcovado Railway — Petropolis Railway — Engineering difficulties
— Causes of decomposition — The glacial theory — Ancient tem-
perature at the Equator — Animal remains in caves — Refutation of
glaciation — Thickness of gneiss in Brazil

List of Books, etc., referred to

Index

xvii

I'ACjE

42I

429

43*

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Entrance to the Bay of Rio de Janeiro
General View of Rio de Janeiro from Arsenal
Palm Tree Avenue, Botanical Gardens
Serra do Cortume, from Casa Grande
Serra do Cortume, from Camapuao Valley
A Scene in a Tropical Forest...

Bay of Botafogo, with the Corcovado
Rua do Imperador, Petropolis
Bahia ...

The Railway to Petropolis
Map of Minas Gera.es ...

PAGE

Frontispiece
... To face 20
23

... „ 78

„ 123

», 131

„ 186

„ 217

,, 242

,, 424

At end of Volume

Enlarged Map, showing Route of Railway

A YEAR IN BRAZI

CHAPTER I.

OUTWARD BOUND.

R.M.SS. “ Cotopaxi English Channel.

June 8, 1883. — Arriving at the Adelphi Hotel, Liverpool,
on the evening of the 5th, I was introduced by the heads
of the firm to the remainder of the staff (ten, counting
myself) who form the expedition for the survey of the
railway. The firm subsequently entertained us all at an
excellent dinner, when “ success to the expedition ” was
enthusiastically drunk, in addition to other toasts, and a
few speeches were made.

We left Liverpool about 12.30 on the 6th inst., having
been kept waiting an hour and a half on the landing stage
for our tender amid a motley throng of emigrants for
America, principally German and Norwegian. We passed
the Great Orme’s Head about three, and Holyhead at four.
Quite close to the head we had a splendid view of the fine
precipitous rocks going down right into the sea. About
8 a.m. on the 7th, we saw Land’s End, and passed very
near to it about 10 a.m., leaving it on the left and the Wolf
Rock lighthouse on the right.

Bl

B

2

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Our party has some of the best berths in the ship, most
of them just in front of the engines, where there is hardly
any motion, and scarcely any noise or smell from the
machinery or pumps, etc. All our men, with one or two
exceptions (including myself), have travelled much. Some
think we may be home by Christmas, but it is rather early
to talk about that.

I have begun to study Portuguese, and those who know
it thoroughly are giving me every assistance. I like it
pretty well, and hope to pick up a good deal before we
reach Rio.

We have had splendid weather so far, though a bank of
mist off the Land’s End caused us to slow down and blow
the steam-whistle — -as a fog signal — every half minute. It
makes a noise loud enough to waken the dead, and pro-
duces an uncomfortable feeling as of something weird and
unearthly. We also sounded with the lead (having a piece
of tallow at the bottom), and brought up sand and shells
from a depth of fifty fathoms, though the length of line
paid out was seventy fathoms — for twenty fathoms were
slack rope. It is interesting to note the method of ascer-
taining the exact depth of the water At the end of the
line, just above the lead, is a brass tube, with an indicating
needle fixed to a piston which works inside. The tube is
full of air, but as the lead descends, the weight of superin-
cumbent water causes a certain amount of it to enter the
tube from the bottom ; this forces up the piston, and the
needle marks on a graduated scale the depth in fathoms.

By midday we were in the Atlantic. There was a good
deal of rolling and some pitching, and the number of
passengers on deck diminished. At midday we had made
284 miles from Liverpool (in 23^ hours), and were 362 miles
off Pauillac.

OUTWARD BOUND.

3

We have on board a little boy, aged six years, who,
with a pug dog, was shipped at Liverpool in charge of the
stewardess. He, therefore, is quite alone, and runs about
the deck all day. We three — i.e. dog, boy, and I — have
fraternized. There is also a very pleasant young Irish
priest going to Bordeaux, and thence to Marseilles. He
can’t speak a word of French, and thinks it rather a joke.
We have likewise foregathered, and have been looking into
Portuguese a bit. He agrees with me, that with a know-
ledge of Latin and French it should be easy.

You may like to know something about food. It is
excellent. Coffee and biscuits at seven ; breakfast, with
cold and hot meats, porridge, eggs and bacon, beefsteak,
salad, etc., at nine ; lunch, of cold meat, cheese, salad, at
one ; dinner, of soup, fish, entrees , joints, puddings, etc.,
cheese, and desert, with coffee, at six ; tea, coffee, and
biscuits, at 8.30 ; lights out at eleven. I look forward
with great anxiety and inward craving to each meal.

We passed Ouessant, or Ushant, at 7.30 last night, and,
entering the Bay of Biscay, pitched considerably. The
sunset was splendid : on the horizon, three barques against
a dark neutral-tint bank of clouds ; above these, apricot
sky, with belts of dark purple fringed with bright orange,
and floating masses of dark apricot merging into the pale
blue cloudless heavens overhead ; the sea tinged with red,
and the vessel rising and sinking in the dark green waves.

/s

At eight this morning we passed the lie Dieu, about four
miles off, and no miles from Pauillac. Entering the
mouth of the Gironde, it is very hot ; hitherto at sea it has
been quite cold, and the ship rolled much, but now the
yellow river is calm as glass. We are about thirty miles
from Pauillac, and thence it is another forty miles to
Bordeaux.

4

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

June g, 1883. — I must now give some details of my
• . . ^
visit to Bordeaux. Passing the lie de Re about 12.40, we

entered the line of buoys at the mouth of the Gironde at
2.30 p.m. The country on the north bank has a low coast-
line, parseme with red-roofed white houses, and is prettily
wooded after passing the sandhills which border the Bay
of Biscay. On the south bank, the country is more undu-
lating and very picturesque, with many vineyards, chateaux,
and houses ; it is from these former that the well-known
wines Chateau Margaux, Lafitte, St. Julien, St. Estcphe,
Latour, etc., are produced, and from the chateaux they
derive their names.

Arrived at Pauillac, four of us went on board the tender
for Bordeaux. More of our men intended to go, but were
downstairs getting a comb or a tooth-brush ; and when we
were clear of the ship, they were to be seen wistfully gazing
after us. They were left behind. We had with us many
who were getting off at Bordeaux, and half a dozen who,
like us, went only for the night. Leaving Pauillac about
six, we reached Bordeaux about nine p.m. The town of
Pauillac, on the south bank, as seen from the river, appears
insignificant ; whereas it is really a very nice little place,
consisting of an esplanade bordered by grass and reeds,
coming down to the water, and mud-banks when the tide
is out. A wooden landing stage runs out into the river.
The houses are of irregular heights, one two-storied man-
sion being the Grand Hotel. Beyond this row of houses on
each side are avenues of trees and numerous haycocks.

Going by river towards Bordeaux, for some distance on
each bank, the country is low but undulating, and prettily
wooded, and very green, with innumerable avenues of
poplars. The hay was being carried. Just opposite Pauil-
lac there is an island about midstream, our side of the

OUTWARD BOUND.

5

river being about three-quarters of a mile wide. A little
further up, the Gironde divides; or rather two rivers, the
Dordogne from the north and the Garonne from the south,
join, and are then called the Gironde.

Steaming up the Garonne to Bordeaux, we saw a great
thunderstorm raging behind the high ground, on which a
part of the eastern portion of Bordeaux stands ; and we
had then about half a dozen views, each of which would
form a beautiful little picture. While the storm was raging
to the east, to the west there was a splendid sunset ; in the
foreground the river, like oil, only disturbed by the wavelets
caused by our tender, and reflecting the orange-crimson
sky ; then the green grassy slopes of the bank, with a back-
ground of poplars, whose black outlines stood sharply
defined against the yellow horizon.

We put up at the Hotel de France , and had rooms
palatial in extent and height and fitting, also in charges.
Bordeaux appears a very large and beautiful town. The
east side is true country, and the ground rocky, and some-
times precipitous ; while on the west side, which is flatter,
there are quays the whole length, with hosts of craft of all
kinds, from the large ocean-going steamers of the Messa-
geries Maritimes, and other companies, to the small tugs,
brigs, schooners, fishing smacks, etc. Bordeaux is a clean
town, and I should much like to examine it thoroughly, as
there are many interesting antiquities, such as the Grosse
Cloche. I never saw a place so overrun by tramways ; I
had no idea they were so numerous, although I knew they
are one of the well-known tramway companies of which, as
you are aware, I have had some experience.

After dinner, we prowled about the town and looked in
at one or two places of amusement, returning at twelve;
then supper, then to bed. I was up at 5.30, and called the

6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

others. We sallied forth, and took a tramcar going S.W.
Passing the cathedral, which has a beautiful exterior, we
went on as far as the Boulevard de Talence. Here we were
in the midst of country roads, detached stone houses in
beautiful gardens, surrounded by high stone walls, creeping
vines hanging over some of them ; in fact, the tout ensemble
very picturesque. We walked along the Boulevards de
Talence and du Tondu as far as the Rue d’Orano, and then
back to town by the Rue d’ Alsace-Lorraine. It was now
8.30, and breakfast time. We indulged in the local bif-tek
a la bordelaise and other delicacies, and, after a final walk
round, repaired to our tender.

Being detained three-quarters of an hour before start-
ing, I had the amusement of witnessing a civil marriage.
The happy pair came to the office on the quay, attended by
two or three friends ; the bride dressed in white with a veil,
the bridegroom in full dress. They said a few Avords, the
bride and bridgroom joined hands, gave a bouquet to the
registrar — a little fat man in a tall hat — and the business
concluded in about two minutes, when the joyous pair
walked off.

June 10. — Last night at 7.30 we had a little excite-
ment. I was on deck aft, close by the rudder, when
suddenly there was a noise and a snap, and one chain of
the steam-steering gear broke. We were consequently
unable to steer the vessel, and, considering that we were
just at the mouth of the river in rough water and running
between buoys, it was rather serious. The captain and
a dozen men immediately rushed aft and disconnected the
steam gearing, while four men were set to work the wheel,
sailors being stationed along the deck to pass the commands
from the bridge. Everything, however, was put straight
by 9.15. I found out in the course of the evening how the

OUTWARD BOUND.

7

accident happened. The steering is all done by machinery,
worked by steam, from the bridge, where the officer in
command is stationed, with the pilot when required. The
order was given “ Starboard,” and the quartermaster
moved the lever rather quickly, which made the piston of
the steering engine work faster than usual, and, putting an
extra stress on the chains which move the tiller, sheared
two rivets, and so broke the connection.

We have had torrents of rain. There have been severe
floods in the Garonne — along its whole length — during the
last week, and damage to the amount of millions of francs
has been done. Now, the evening is superb, and the bay
pretty calm. Land has been out of sight all day. The
clouds where they occur, which is but scantily, cast a fine
purple shadow on the deep, deep blue, which reaches all
round the whole circle of the horizon.

We shipped some Spaniards, Gascons, and a few French,
all third-class passengers, at Bordeaux.

I have forgotten to mention that we have the incan-
descent electric light in the saloon and the deck cabins.
This is a great luxury, and the Cotopaxi is the only one
of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company’s ships where
it is in use.

June ii. — Rounded Cape Finisterre about 6 a.m.,
and entered the Bay of Carril at 7.30. This bay is very
picturesque, and much indented with villages scattered
along its shores. Carril is fifteen miles up, the bay extend-
ing some distance further ; and as a background, range
upon range of mountains, rugged and bare, rise from well-
wooded plains and undulating hills. In the bay are a
great many rocks and small rocky islands, while numerous
pretty little boats, with triangular shoulder-of-mutton sails,
are cruising about. We only stayed at Carril about a

8

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

couple of hours, and then went on to Vigo (fifty miles),
where we arrived at three.

This bay is even finer than that of Carril, being narrower,
and the mountains more precipitous. The Channel fleet
was at anchor here, consisting of the Agincourt , Sultan,
Neptune, Minotaur, Northumberland, Achilles, and Humber,
the tender. The bay was alive with men-of-war boats,
and the decks covered with sailors and marines. One of
the lieutenants of the Northumberland came off to our
ship.

As we had two hours at Vigo, and were anchored only
a hundred yards from the quay, I went ashore with an
Italian, a Chilian, a Portuguese, and some others, having
arranged with a boatman, who, after a deal of haggling,
said his boat was “ a la disposicion de V.,” for the sum of
two pesetas a head (i.e. about 2 s) to go and return. The
town is very prettily situated on the side of a hill, the
older part especially picturesque — all built of stone ; the
streets very steep and narrow, but clean, and well paved
with large blocks of stone. The newer part of the town
is very different to, and less interesting than, the old
portion. It has greatly extended since the opening of the
railway to Madrid.

June 12. — All that I saw of the rocky shores of
Galicia is bold and grand, and so also is as much of the
Portuguese coast as was in sight last night.

The weather has been cold and cloudy since we left
St. George’s Channel till to-day ; now it is very hot, with
cloudless sunshine, brilliant green sea, and (8 a.m.) undu-
lating hilly coast-line on our port (left) side.

We took on board many emigrants both at Carril and
Vigo, mostly for the Plate and Chili ; and it is very amusing
to go forward and listen to their jargon. Some of them

OUTWARD BOUND.

9

are pretty, and they are mostly very dark. Being cooped
up below like hens in a basket, most of them are on deck
all day.

On the Atlantic.

June 13, 1883. — Now I must tell you a little about
our stay at Lisbon yesterday. At nine we passed Cape
Roca, and near Cintra, which latter is about fourteen miles
by road from Lisbon. Entering the Tagus at 10.30, the
colour of the water changed, in a well-defined line, from
deep blue to yellow-green. The north bank is low, bare of
trees, and slightly undulating ; the rugged range of hills by
Cintra rising from the plains on the horizon. The south
bank is also low and sandy, uninteresting and uncultivated.
There is a lighthouse built on a spit of land on the south
side ; and on the north bank is a fine fort, built on rocks
detached from the shore and standing in the water. The
Tower of Belem on the north bank is the boundary of the
town, which extends thence some miles to the east. This
tower, a very handsome old stone building at the entrance
of the harbour, was built by Joao V., and is covered with
shields and coats of arms carved in stone.

The city is beautifully situated on high, rapidly rising,
and undulating ground ; it contains an immense number of
very fine buildings, both new and old. Cathedral, churches,
monasteries, convents, and arsenal, are all seen rom the
river ; the chief edifice, however, on which the eye rests is
the Royal Palace, a large square building, standing on very
high ground, and rising far above the other houses. The
deep blue sky, brilliant sun, and perfectly clear atmosphere
added to the beauty of the scene ; the glaring white of the
houses being relieved by the green Venetian blinds, the
olive trees, the cypresses (in the cemeteries), and the vines.

IO

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

We were first boarded by the custom-house officers ; then,
anchoring about noon, the P.S.N.C. agent came on board,
bringing letters, etc.

At one, having bargained with a boatman to take us on
shore and back for five hundred reis a-piece (about 2 s.),*
we embarked — a company of twelve — and were landed
at the steps by the Pra^a de Dom JosL This square,
which is very fine, has an equestrian statue of Dom
Jose, and the place is called by the English “Black
Horse Square,” from the colour of the bronze statue.
Having obtained a guide (for a milreis), we first went
to the post-office in the praga, for stamps and post-cards,
and next to the Posta Restante. We then visited the
markets, and passed through several fine streets, squares,
and public gardens. There are many tram routes, the
cars being sometimes closed like our ordinary cars, and
sometimes having rows of seats covered by an awning, re-
sembling some of the Manchester cars, but all alike drawn
by mules. The drivers think nothing of getting out of the
grooves and rattling over the stones, if they meet another
car on a single road, and have gone beyond the proper
passing place. There is also a service of omnibuses, which
run over the tram rails when the cars are out of the way.
As to the shops, the principal feature which struck me was
the great number there are displaying jewellery and all
kinds of trinkets.

There are very many water-carriers and water-sellers,
who draw water from the public fountains into the most
picturesque terra-cotta jars, and then sit at the corners of
the streets, or in the markets, or pragas (squares), and sell
it for a few reis a glass.

The gardens are nice. There the graceful pepper-tree,

* The Portuguese milreis is twice the value of the Brazilian milreis.

OUTWARD BOUND.

1 1

the prickly pear, cactus, aloe, and other tropical plants grow
in profusion ; also a beautiful red and yellow shrub of the
Borage tribe, which smells deliciously. The geraniums and
pelargoniums attain the size of shrubs and trees. A lovely
pink pelargonium, creeping over an arbutus to the height of
some twelve or fifteen feet, was one mass of flowers. I also
saw one fine india-rubber plant ( Ficus elastica) about
twenty feet high, and as much in diameter, with leaves a
foot long. Rather larger than his brother in the study at
home ! The heat was very great, but on we went; and after
three-quarters of an hour’s ascent through picturesque and
very steep streets, sometimes mounting steps with vines
overhanging the walls, passing fountains surrounded by
water-carriers, and people asleep in the shade under the
walls, we reached the building and gardens, at the ter-
mination of the aqueduct which supplies Lisbon with
water.

This being the most important engineering work in
Lisbon, I was most anxious to see it. As a rule, few
travellers take the trouble to visit it. The building is a
plain square massive edifice, with a good vaulted and
groined roof resting on four central pillars. From the flat
top, which is surrounded by a wall, there is a splendid
view of Lisbon, its gardens and houses, and the Tagus.
Inside the house a footway surrounds the reservoir, into
which the water pours from a dolphin’s mouth over a mass
of rock-work. The icy coldness and rushing sound of the
water were most refreshing after our walk in the sweltering
heat. The size of the reservoir is thirty-two metres square
by nine metres deep, so the contents are 1,875,000 gallons.
Ascending a steep stone staircase, we arrived at the
entrance to the aqueduct, which extends about thirty-six
miles into the interior, and is covered throughout. The

12

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

interior of the aqueduct is about twelve feet high by six
feet wide, and has a semi-circular roof. There is a footway
in the centre, and two channels — one at each side — for the
water, which also flows under the pavement forming the
footway. At this point the aqueduct rests on high stone
arches, and is some sixty feet above the ground; but it soon
passes into a hill covered with vines and Indian corn.

On our return walk we passed through a praga, called
“ The Square of the rolling motion.” The pavement is of
black and white mosaic, arranged in alternate wave-shaped
curves ; the square is raised slightly in the centre, and
slopes to the sides ; and the effect — perhaps especially to
us, from having just come off the ship — was certainly re-
markable. We then went to a wine cellar with vaulted
roof ; it was deliciously cool, and we had some splendid
sweet white wine, called Abafado moscata (price ioo reis a
glass) ; thence to a restaurant, where we lunched a la
Porhigaise — ham, sausages, haricots in pods, and some
good red vin du pays , rather like a sweet claret with a
considerable body. Re-embarked at 4.30, and weighed
anchor at 6.45 p.m.

We have now begun our journey of over four thousand
miles across the Atlantic, and the next land we expect to
touch at is Rio de Janeiro. We hope to pass Teneriffe on
the 15th. That huge mountain has been seen by our
captain no miles off, by a French captain (a passenger) at
fifty leagues, and by a friend of his at fifty-five leagues.
We have some very pleasant fellow-passengers, including a
Chilian returning to Santiago, who speaks English perfectly ;
the French captain (au long conns') bound for Rio, to take
charge of a ship, whose master has lately died there ; and
an Italian tenor, who is going to sing at Valparaiso, and
speaks French and Spanish well. My end of the table at

OUTWARD BOUND.

13

meals is the foreign end. Spanish and Italian, French and
Portuguese, are the languages in which conversation is
carried on. This is pleasant and instructive.

June 15. — The sun rose at five, just as we were off the
northerly end of the island of Teneriffe, the most important
of the Canaries, and the most celebrated, owing to the
lofty Peak of Teneriffe, which is situate on the southerly
end, and about seventeen miles from the last shore. The
Peak is 3715 metres, or 12,188 feet, high, and rises very
abruptly. It is also called Pico de Teyde. Extending
along the whole east coast of the island is a range of hills,
beneath which, at the north-east, lies the capital, Santa
Cruz ; these mountains rise near the Peak to a height of
2862 metres, or 9410 feet, and are here called Las Canadas.
Although out at sea, the chain appears to rise abruptly from
the shore ; yet its great height looks insignificant from this
side, owing to the whole length of the island (fifty-three
miles) being seen at once ; and the Canadas again
dwarf the Peak, which rises seventeen miles inland, and
almost behind the highest part of this range. The effect of
all this is to disappoint the general observer who has
anticipated something grand in an island mountain rising
12,000 feet, and I fear I must confess that most of the
passengers who looked upon the Peak for the first time
ridiculed his appearance very much. From the other side
of the island, however, the effect is grand in the extreme.
The Cotopaxi steamed between the islands of Teneriffe and
Canaria — Grand Canary — which are about forty miles
apart, ten miles or so from the former. Canaria, as it
appeared at 5 a.m., presented a lofty, bold, rugged, and
broken outline rising above banks of mist. Its highest
point is 1952 metres, or' 6404 feet. The Canary group
consists of seven islands, of which Teneriffe, Canaria,

14

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Fuerteventura, and Lanzarote are the principal ; while
Gomera, Palma, and Hierro or Fer are the smaller. Tene-
rifife is about fifty-three miles long by thirty-five broad at
its widest (southerly) end ; and Canaria about thirty-three
miles north to south, by thirty-five east to west, or roughly
circular. Canaria lies about two degrees W. from the coast
of Africa. When nearly opposite the Peak, we saw the Island
of Gomera to the S.W. through the mist ; its highest point
is 1342 metres, or 4403 feet. We passed the south end of
Teneriffe at 8 a.m., and the summit of the Peak remained
in sight till 1.30 p.m., when it was lost in the mist; we
only saw it about sixty-five miles off, but the appearance
was very fairy-like.

We are fast losing the long evenings, which is very
sad; to-night (June 15th) the sun set at 6.53, and it was
quite dark by 7.30. I have been much interested in
examining all the French captain’s charts, with his voyages
marked on them. He has rounded Cape Horn twenty-
four times. It was from one of his maps I obtained the
particulars of the Canary Islands.

June 16. — At seven this morning we passed the only
ship we have seen since leaving Lisbon, a French steamer
from Bahia and St. Vincent. At 8.30 this morning we
crossed the Tropic of Cancer. The French captain tells
me that on ships which do not cross the line, e.g. going to
the Antilles, on fait la fete du tropique ; but as we
shall cross the line, Neptune’s visit is deferred till then.
Went forward this evening to hear the Spaniards singing
in chorus to their guitars. The singing was beautiful, and
the scene most picturesque in the clear moonlight, but the
guitars sounded very wiry. Captain Hayes says he shall
note this as the calmest voyage he has made so far. We
have had no rolling or pitching since we got on the

OUTWARD BOUND.

15

Atlantic beyond the Mediterranean, and the sky has been
quite cloudless.

To-day at 12.5 we had “ Fire drill.” The fire-bell rang,
and within three minutes three hoses were pouring water
on the supposed fire ; then the officers called up their
respective men to the several boats (eight in all), which
were lowered, etc. Everything was done quickly and well.

I wonder whether all would progress as calmly in the case
of a real fire.

June 17. — To-day we shall get south of the sun!
This morning saw the Portuguese man-of-war (Physalia
pelagica), and shoals of flying fish (Exocceta volitans). The
captain’s canary nearly bursts its little throat with warbling
all day. This is the coolest day we have had yet ; the
doctor says it is the coolest voyage he has made ; never-
theless, the thermometer stands at 78° in my cabin, and it
is 1270 in the sunshine. The captain read service this
morning in the saloon.

June 18. — We passed the Cape Verd Islands quite
close. The flying fish are an exceedingly pretty sight.
This morning there was a shark about ; we saw his tri-
angular fin. He came into a shoal of flying fish, which
rose in a body and glistened like silver in the sun. Their
flight is very swift and graceful ; they do not rise high
above the water, but rather flit just above the surface, and
not always in a straight line, as I have sometimes read.

June 19. — Began to get into the south-east trade
winds, and the ship pitched and rolled a good deal.

June 20. — Had a talk with Mr. Bertrand about the
Falkland Islands ; he has an extensive sheep farm there.
The islands are about the same latitude south as London
is north of the line, but the climate is much more severe
than that of England ; in fact, the southern latitudes in

i6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

general are much colder than the corresponding northern
latitudes. There are two principal islands — one ninety
miles by fifty, the other ninety by forty-five — and several
smaller islands. It is a fully fledged English colony, and
the only inhabitants are natives of the British Isles, except
a few foreign servants and herdsmen from South America.
Sheep-raising is really the only occupation. The sheep arc
killed for their skins, and melted down for tallow, the meat
being wasted ; so there is an opportunity either for a tinned-
meat factory, or for arranging to freeze the fresh meat and
then convey it to England. The best shepherds are mostly
Scotchmen, who get on very well and make money. They
have their passage out paid, and begin with £3 io.r. per
month, with meat, house-room, and firing ; they are raised
to £4. the third year, and .£5 the fifth year. If they stay
five years, the return passage is paid. The climate is too
cold for growing wheat, and the wind beats everything
down. But the islands possess some of the finest harbours
in the world — and there are many of them — while some are
harbours within harbour, so that nearly all transport is
done by water. The islands were originally taken by the
Spaniards, then by the French, and lastly by the English.
There are no soldiers, only police, but a gunboat of the
South American squadron is generally cruising about.

I should think it must be a very desolate place to live
in. Mr. Bertrand says that when he arrives (about July
15th) it will be the middle of winter, with snow and ice
everywhere. It is at least thirty days from England — a
bad voyage is six weeks. It has no trees, no wheat or corn ;
there are only some two thousand inhabitants scattered
about over different farms or holdings. The one town is
named Sandy, and the only wild animals are the remnants
of some Spanish bulls, which have now grown wild, and

OUTWARD BOUND.

17

are hunted on horseback whenever they are found. There
is, however, some good bird-shooting.

June 21. — Passed St. Paul’s Rocks about 3.15 p.m.,
but we failed to discover them, though the captain hunted
for them. As they are only about sixty feet high, they
are always difficult to find.* This evening the sun set at
6.5 ; it was quite dark by 6.20, and at 7.30 we crossed the
equator. It is very cool. This is the thirty-seventh time
that the French captain has crossed the line, and he will
have to recross it thrice before he can again return to his
wife at Bordeaux, having, when he leaves Rio, to double
Cape Horn and run up the West Coast to some place near
Panama.

I think the practice which obtains of killing the oxen
forwards on the spar deck, in the midst of the emigrants, is
disgraceful, though I must admit that most of the pretty
young girls and the children look on unconcernedly ; but
at least a sail might be hung, so as to prevent the other
oxen witnessing their comrade’s death, for I have seen
them turn their heads to their expiring brother and tremble
all over with terror. The sheep and pigs are slain in the
butcher’s shop just over my cabin. The other day I was
awakened by the dying shrieks of a pig, and immediately
afterwards some of his vital fluid trickled through a loose
bolt-hole on to my ceiling !

* In the official report of the Challenger Expedition, there are three
splendid photographs of St. Paul’s Rocks, with an exhaustive description of
the rocks, their composition, characteristics, inhabitants, etc. It is stated,
“ During the time the ship remained at these islets, their dangerous character
was more than ever apparent ; for although their white guano-covered peaks,
when lit up by the moon, were plainly visible from the ship a hundred yards
distant, they were not sufficiently distinct to be recognized as land at a distance
of over a mile, and without the moon would probably not be seen more than a
quarter of a mile ; in short, the sound of the breakers might be the first notice
given to a passing ship of their proximity.” — Narrative, vol. i. pt. i. p. 202.

C

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

June 23.— Yesterday the current set the ship thirty-
three miles out of her course, and therefore nearer the
coast of South America than we should have been ; so at
4.30 p.m. we saw the first piece of Brazilian territory, the
Island of Fernando de Noronha, which is the Brazilian
convict settlement. It has one very prominent pyramidal
peak which appears to stand alone, though the whole island
is lofty. I could not gain much information about the
place, for little is known, as the Brazilian Government keep
it all very secret. But this much I picked up : the governor
is changed every six months, and convicts, on obtaining a
good-conduct medal, are allowed to get out their wives and
families ; they have land granted to them, are obliged to
report themselves occasionally, and have to pay a certain
percentage of their crops, etc.

June 26. — Last night at 11.30 we came in sight of
the lighthouse at Abrolhos ( i.e . eye-opener),* the first
point of the South American continent. We were in
shallow water. At 7 p.m. the water was 150 fathoms deep ;
sounding at 9 p.m. it was twenty fathoms; at 11.30 only
thirteen fathoms; then 11.45, seventeen fathoms. We
passed the lighthouse — twenty miles off — at midnight, and
I then retired. This morning at 11.30 I saw the first
piece of land (as last night it was only a light), viz. the
mountains round Espirito Santo, within three hundred
miles of Rio, which we hope to reach to-morrow.

Perhaps so called as it is near dangerous rocks.

( 19 )

CHAPTER II.

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ.

Iiio de Janeiro.

June 28, 1883. — At length I can write to you from dry
land, but must begin from the close of my last letter.
Yesterday, June 27, I got up at 4 a.m., just as we were off
Cabo Frio, which we apparently passed quite close ; it was
bright moonlight, and the coast was beautifully moun-
tainous. As we neared the Bay of Rio de Janeiro, before
the sun rose, the view became yet more beautiful, range
over range appearing through the mist and above the
clouds in the increasing light.

The Bay of Rio de Janeiro is generally admitted to be
the finest in the world, though some (including the French
captain) consider the Bay of San Francisco, in the States,
finer. I can hardly think it possible. The entrance to this
bay is perfect. Passing two little islands, on the left we see
a series of jagged, rugged, irregular, and isolated mountains,
beginning with the Sugar-loaf, and backed by the
Corcovado group ; while on the right are range beyond
range of much more rounded hills, covered to the summit
with verdure and tropical forest. Looking through the
entrance, the eye is arrested by the faint fantastic outline
of the Organ Mountains, some eight thousand feet high,

20

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

rising above a heavy belt of snow-white clouds some
sixty miles away. We approach the bay, and the gaunt
pyramidal Sugar-loaf (Pao d’Assucar, 1363 feet) towers
above us, the gentler slopes of the huge cone are covered
with trees, while the perpendicular side towards us is bare
and purple in the early sunlight. At its base a white streak
shows the sandy beach, which is washed by the calm blue
Atlantic. In front of the Sugar-loaf, but detached from it,
is a fort perched on a large rock rising above the bay.
There is a second fort in the centre of the entrance, and a
third on the right side ; the latter is likewise overshadowed
by a mountain, but much more rounded than the Sugar
Loaf.

Entering the bay, one is struck by the beauty of the
town of Rio. The coast is exceedingly irregular on both
sides of the bay, and picturesquely broken up into many
smaller lagoon-like bays. Near the city are some rocky
islands dotted over with houses and palm trees. In the
midst of the town rise several hills, all more or less thickly
covered with houses, while in the flat parts innumerable
fine houses, churches, and public buildings attract one’s
attention ; and behind all rises the lofty chain of mountains
which, beginning with the precipitous Corcovado, continues
in a northerly direction by the Pico do Papagaio, near
Tijuca, till it is lost in the mist. It is a scene which can-
not be taken in at once or described after one short look ;
it needs often and repeated gazing at, besides a knowledge
of all the places themselves, to be able to describe it
properly ; but it is certainly very beautiful, and I hope to
be able to say something about the different points of view
at some future time.

A large number of engineers and other gentlemen came
on board to welcome us, including Dr. Rebougas, who is

RIO DE JANEIRO, FROM THE ARSENAL.

ARRIVAL AT RIO , AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 21

considered the De Lesseps of Brazil. They were all dressed
in white trousers, broadcloth frock-coats, and black silk
hats.

We anchored at 10.30, and came on shore at twelve.

I cannot attempt as yet to describe the town, that must
be deferred till I have time to go about a little ; but I am
much struck by the execrable manner in which the streets
are paved all over the heart of the city. To-day has been
a very busy day. After coffee at the hotel, I went out for a
stroll before breakfast, and walked to one of the squares,
the Largo da Constituigao, meeting crowds of niggers and
mulattos — men, women, and children of every shade, from
the deepest black to the palest white, carrying sugar-cane,
bananas, oranges, and many other fruits and vegetables,
also prawns, and fish of various kinds. In the centre of the
square is a bronze equestrian statue of Dom Pedro I., the
base of the pedestal being surrounded by four bronze
groups, representing the typical Indians of the four principal
rivers in Brazil — the Amazons, Sao Francisco, Parana, and
Madeira ; beside these groups are eight great gas-lamps.
The square is, of course, full of tropical trees, palms,
crotons, etc. ; and there are many benches in the shade,
but it is nothing like the Passeio Publico , which is really a
most charming garden, though small, in the heart of the
town.

After nine o’clock breakfast, we all went together to the
Engineers’ Club, the New London and Brazilian Bank, and
paid several duty calls, passing compliments, shaking hands
ad infinitum, bowing, and smoking dozens of cigarettes ;
and then to the Alfandega, or Custom House, where we
were detained an enormous time, having in all some
hundred and fifty packages, fifty of which were instruments,
drawing tables and boards, paper and other necessaries.

22

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Most of these boxes were opened and examined, soldered
up tin cases included ; so that when they came to the
personal baggage, they were about sick of the job, and none
of my things were searched, as I said they only contained
ronpas (clothes) and other necessaries. At least, all the
officers were very civil ; and at the end of some hours, when
all was concluded, and a good sum paid as duty, after
mutual compliments, handshaking, doffing of hats, and
cigarettes, we at length departed.

There is an abundant and ubiquitous system of tram-
ways. The cars are drawn by one or two mules, but the
roads for them in the city are a disgrace ; and in the narrow
streets foot passengers have to squeeze against the houses
or go into a shop to avoid being knocked down by the cars,
which are mostly open, the seats being in rows facing the
mules.

June 29. — Went to the athletic sports to-day, and saw
the Emperor. Have to leave to-morrow morning by the
five train, so must conclude.

In the train en route to Queluz.

June 30, 1883. — I must begin by a brief allusion to
the athletic sports I went to yesterday afternoon at the
English cricket ground, near Botafogo. They were really
very good. Many of the principal English residents were
there, and I was introduced to several. The two races
which interested me most were one for little boys, and
another for little girls, under twelve. When I had had
enough of the sports, I took a car, with some others, to the
Botanical Gardens, some three miles further from the town.
The road there is quite pretty, passing the Bay of Botafogo
and the lagoon Rodriquez de Freitas ; but the most re-
markable sight on the route is the view of the precipitous

I'ALM TREE AVENUE, BOTANICAL CARDENS.

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 23

side of the Corcovado from the Largo dos Leoes,* where
the rock rises a sheer thousand feet above a mass of dense
forest.

Decidedly the most interesting feature in these gardens
is the triple avenue of lofty palms ( Oreodoxa oleracea). The
avenues are arranged in the shape of a T, and the view I
give is of the centre walk — the stem of the T- The palms
have a perfectly smooth straight trunk some eighty feet
high, crowned by a mass of leaves, each of which is twelve
feet long or more ; it is all on so large a scale that it was
only by seeing some people at a little distance coming
down the avenue that I could really take in its height. We
next came upon a number of mango and mangrove trees,
then some clumps of graceful bamboos forty feet high ; after
that, orange trees in fruit, the bread-fruit tree, and thou-
sands of plants with splendid and large leaves. Nearly all
the trees are covered with epiphytes, orchids, and luxuriant
hanging lichens. I noticed some butterflies, Papilio, Calli-
dryas, Pieris, Ithornice, a few Erycinidce, and others I do
not know.

To-day, having set my alarum for 3 a.m., I got up
early ; not, however, after my usual good night, which is
easily accounted for. First, it being the Feast of SS. Peter
and Paul, there were innumerable crackers and fireworks of
all kinds sent off in the street, which roused me every few
moments till midnight ; then some men close by started
singing in chorus, and kept it up till 4 a.m. ; a mosquito
also found me out, and was disagreeable, and I discovered
in the morning where he came from. Emptying the
remains of the water-jug into the basin, I had the pleasure
of seeing, besides a lot of muddy sediment, a dozen lively
mosquito larvae !

* Lion Square.

24

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

I had to wake up the rest of our party, for though we
had told the boots to call us, he never did, and we were
only just in time; for at 3.30 our two carriages drove up.
They were large, comfortable, and showy, each having
two mules, and the coachmen wearing top hats, with a
broad gold lace band. There was also a huge covered
waggon for the luggage, of which we only had thirty-
eight packages, the rest having been sent direct up coun-
try from the Custom House. Arriving at the station at
4.20, we were allowed half an hour to enjoy our coffee
and bread ; the coffee is always excellent, and invariably
drunk noir, with a large amount of native sugar, which is
pale yellow and fine as flour. We left Rio at 5 a.m.
punctually, and are now proceeding by the Estrada dc
Ferro Dom Pedro II. — the principal state railway — to the
extreme northern limit of the line, which at present is
Carandahy.

The engine and carriages are of American make and in
American style — the Pullman cars — fitted with every con-
venience, but being on the bogie principle they oscillate
tremendously. I have spent a good deal of the day on the
platform at the end of the train — fortunately there is not
a guard’s van there — looking back at the line, examining
the construction, curves, tunnels, bridges, and the general
points of engineering interest. The train is going at
really a very respectable speed, though it does stop at
every station, that is, about every eighteen kilometres.

Since daylight I have been able to admire the scenery,
which is most varied and beautiful, very hilly, and in some
parts very thickly wooded ; but I can give you no idea of
the luxuriance of the forests and their intense green.
Sometimes we wind along the edge of steep slopes, while
below are undulating hills rising out of the snowy mists of

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 25

early morning, with plantations of sugar-cane, bananas,
coffee, orange trees covered with golden fruit, and innumer-
able clumps of the lovely bamboo. Then we plunge again
into thick masses of virgin forest.

The chief objection to the journey is the dust which
rises in clouds, penetrates everywhere, and covers the
paper I am writing on. Dr. Rebougas is with us ; he and
all the Brazilians travel in long white cotton coats down to
their ankles, or else white ponchos, to keep off the dust.

At seven we stopped and had a cup of coffee ; and then
at eight, arriving at Barra, we had a good substantial break-
fast, mostly obnoxious-looking messes, which, however,
tasted very good, and were washed down by some good
Portuguese red wine, called vinho virgem.

Most of the villages or small towns that we have passed
appear well-built, neat, and pretty. The highest point on
the line was in a tunnel, when the aneroid showed about
one thousand metres above sea level ; this was in the Man-
tiqueira range, one of the most important watersheds of
Brazil. The railway in many places is a triumph of
engineering skill ; but it is evident that it is a government
line, and has been built regardless of expense.

We reached Carandahy,* Minas Geraes, at 5.30, having
been twelve and a half hours travelling 420 kilometres, or
an average of just 20^- miles per hour. We then walked up
the hill to the hotel, which is quite close, and were about
ready for the dinner, which did not delay to appear, after
having had nothing except a few cups of coffee since 8 a.m-
The air felt very cold, and yet the thermometer was 50°
The accommodation, of course, was not very extensive, and
an arrival of a dozen travellers more than the average was

* Carandahy is a Tupy (Indian) name, derived from Cara-andahy, tire
hawk's hook or curve, the name of the river (Captain Burton).

26

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

something very unusual ; however, we were allotted three
bedrooms for our party. The bedstead frames were iron,
with boards to lie on, concealed by half an inch of Indian
corn straw, and naught besides save a sheet and a thin
coverlet. I slept Brazilian fashion, in trousers, and piled
on all the coats and rugs that I had to keep myself warm ;
the result was I slept like a top, but when I woke was
greeted by sundry groans from my neighbours, who were a
mass of bruises, and had not slept a wink, owing to the hard
boards.

July i. — At nine, Dr. Rebougas, his friend Senhor Oliveira,
our chief, and I left for Queluz, which is about forty-eight
kilometres off (thirty miles). Placing our little luggage on
a trolly, we four, with the district engineer, got on, and were
pushed along for two or three kilometres by four men, till
we fell in with the contractor’s engine. We then removed
our luggage and got on board it. All round the engine is
a narrow platform, with a railing to prevent one being
jolted off ; and in front, between the buffers, is a seat, which
is more comfortable but less agreeable ; for when the engine
pulls up sharp, as it did once when a herd of cows was on
the line, the chances are you will be pitched off on your
face. We reached the station of Paraopeba at ten, having
been an hour travelling eighteen kilometres. After a short
conference with some engineers there (having ordered
horses to meet us at the end of the rails, and engaged a
cart to take the luggage to Queluz), we left at 11.30. The
last six or seven kilometres of rails were very rough, and
we crawled along and jumped about horribly. At length
by midday, reaching the end of the rails, we got on horse-
back, riding for the most part along the line, which is
almost ready for laying the rails, even beyond Queluz. On
the way we met another district engineer, levelling the

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 27

formation. He took us up to his house, regaled us with
coffee, and lent us a horse to replace one of ours, which was
tired. At length we reached Queluz, soon after three. It is
really a nice-looking little place, though very straggling.
There are three thousand inhabitants, and three churches,
but no resident priest. For a change there had been Mass
this morning, so of course every one went, and there were
dozens of marriages and baptisms. One man was married
to the wrong woman, owing to the service being only read
once for twenty or thirty persons ; hence some muddle took
place, and the result of his anxious inquiry as to whether
he can be released and married to the right one is not
yet known. He had hold of the right woman’s hand, but
the certificates were made out with the wrong name.

Arriving at Queluz, we went to the Hotel Central,
where we were received by some half-dozen engineers ; and,
after a slight refreshment, had a long conference about the
railway, comparing maps, listening to experiences and
details of different proposed routes, and finding out how
very little — in fact, nothing — is known about the country
between this place and Pitanguy, the proposed terminus
of our railway. The chief engineer here is a Senhor Har-
greaves. He is a member of the Institution of Civil
Engineers, English by parentage, born at Lisbon, brought
up at Rio ; he travelled in England and Europe with Dr.
Rebougas some ten years ago. He is married, and has
three charming children, two boys and a girl, who all look
the picture of health. Mr. Hargreaves tells me that the
climate here is very healthy, which I can quite understand.
Nevertheless, I have to wrap myself up after sunset, though
the temperature is not really very low ; it is only the con-
trast of the cool nights after the hot days. The minimum
on June 28 here was 30 C. or 38° Fahr. (It is now mid-
winter.)

28

A YEAR IN BRAZIL .

Mr. Hargreaves most kindly invited us to dinner, and
we spent a very delightful evening. He showed me a
number of geological specimens of rocks taken from cut-
tings and tunnels on a line he is constructing to Ouro
Preto, the capital of the Province. Some of the specimens
were very fine, eg. a beautiful rose-coloured marble, used
for walls, which would be worth a good deal if it could be
taken to Rio and shipped some haematite, very pure;
some splendid quartz crystals — the Brazilian crystal so
extensively used for spectacles ; and two fine cubes of iron
pyrites, very perfect. He tells me that rattlesnakes are
very numerous, some as much as four feet long ; but they
are not at all dangerous if permanganate of potash be
injected hypodermically immediately after the bite is
received, as then in two hours you are all right. Armadil-
loes are also plentiful, but only small ones, the larger ones
being found more in the north of the province. There are
besides pumas (the Brazilian lion), but very small ones ; *
and likewise plenty of hornets, which can sting a horse or
a man to death easily ; so we must be cautious.

Estagao Paraopeba.

July 2. — Our luggage arrived at Queluz at 9 a.m., only
eighteen hours after ourselves, having been twenty-one
hours coming nineteen miles, at the modest cost of eighty
milreis (about £ 6 ioj.).

This morning it was very cold and windy, with a thick
mist ; however, it cleared off when the sun was up, and
turned out a beautiful day, not too hot, with plenty of
clouds about, but no rain. We shall, in fact, have no rain
to speak of for about three months, the rainy season here

* During the whole time I was out I never fell in with any rattlesnakes,
and never even heard of any “pumas,” though I was told of “ onjas.”

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 29

being from October to March ; but no one stops work
longer than is absolutely necessary, even during the rains.

We had the usual solid breakfast. There are only two
meals a day, as a rule, in Brazil — breakfast and dinner —
the first about eleven, and the latter about four ; there is no
difference between them, except that sweets are not served,
as a rule, after breakfast. Coffee comes at the end of each
meal, when the wine is removed. After breakfast we went
to the engineers’ offices, examined plans and sections of the
lines and extensions now in course of construction, looked
over the best maps that are to be had, and had another
long talk. Our party then broke up, I having to return to
Carandahy, while my three companions started for Ouro
Preto to interview the President of the Province. Ouro
Preto is a nine-hours’ ride from Queluz.

I left Queluz for Paraopeba station at 12.15, alone with
the guide, and the three horses we were taking back, fresh
ones being engaged for the Ouro Preto journey. I found
my book, “ Colloquial Portuguese,” most useful, and
managed to say everything I wanted to my man ; though
he, presuming on my powers, poured out a great deal I
could not quite grasp. Most of the return journey we went
the same way as we came yesterday, but followed the mule
track for the last few miles, which portion we traversed
yesterday on the engine. We passed many ox-carts on the
road. From ten to sixteen oxen are yoked to each cart,
which only carries about a ton, and they travel two and a
half to three leagues a day (ten or twelve miles). The
wheels are solid, and the axles keep up the most awful
humming screech the whole time, which informs you half a
mile off that they are coming ; so you have time to get off
the road into the forest, or whatever may be at the road-
side. The warning is, therefore, useful, because sometimes

30

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

the road is sunk six or eight feet below the ordinary surface,
so that as there is no room to pass the cart, on meeting it
you would have to retrace your steps, for the oxen could
not turn round.

Arriving here (Paraopeba) at 4.20, I first presented a
letter from Dr. Rebougas to the contractor, Senhor Trajano
Machado, asking him to place the engine at my disposal.
But it had just gone up the line, and would not be back
for an hour. I therefore came over to the hotel, the only
house , except the engineer’s, within miles, and presented
another letter to the man who owns this place. I arranged
to take four bedrooms and a sitting-room, for fifty milreis
a month, and then had some dinner. Macaroni soup,
onions, bad sausages, and feijoes (black beans) failed to
satisfy me ; so I ordered half a dozen poached eggs, and
wound up with preserved pine-apples and cheese — some-
what of a mixture ! Returning to the station, I found the
engine was not available till ten o’clock to-morrow, so came
back here, not sorry to have a quiet evening to write home ;
otherwise the delay is inconvenient, as I have, among other
things, to telegraph to London.

July 3. — Left for Carandahy at eleven on the engine.
About half-way we came to a place where, owing to a bad
foundation, the soil was being cut away from under the
rails to put in a dry stone culvert, never expecting the
engine in that direction. The pleasing result was that we
had to wait three-quarters of an hour, while the rails were
being underpinned and made secure, so that we did not
reach Carandahy till 1.15 ; having been two and a quarter
hours over eleven miles, and twenty-five hours covering the
thirty miles from Queluz !

July 5. — Yesterday the luggage arrived at Carandahy,
having been only six days en route from Rio de Janeiro !

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 31

In the evening I returned to Paraopeba, having passed the
whole day hunting up the district engineer, who had
promised a train to bring us and all our language en masse
to this place ; but, after all, I was unable to make arrange-
ments. To-day I have spent five hours in a preliminary
exploration of this valley, as I am strongly inclined to make
use of it for the railway.* I went on foot, not caring for the
expense of a horse, and feeling more free to go anywhere.
Everybody who passed apparently thought me insane, for
no one walks an inch when they can help it. One thing I
already see clearly, that the country is not as easy as was
represented, and we shall have our work cut out for us.

I have to-day had my bapteme d'insectes, in the shape
of a delightful little creature called the “ carrapato,” a kind
of tick which burrows its head in your flesh, and has to be
dug out with the point of a knife. I also saw one snake,
but he glided away from me.

Paraopeba.

July 7. — At length I have found out the real cause of
delay. The contractor’s engine is supposed not to be
powerful enough to bring all our luggage, and there is a
bridge near Carandahy which is hardly finished, so that the
large engine cannot cross it ; but I now expect we shall
all be here together to-morrow. Two of the staff, however,
tired of waiting, wished to come up last night, so I
arranged for the engine to come down for us about 5.30.
A truck was in readiness at 4.30, and we placed our light
luggage on it ; the engine arrived at 5.30, but, owing to the
usual indifference to delay, we did not leave till 7.3 o. We
three rolled ourselves up on some mat-beds we had bought,
and laid in the ballast truck to keep ourselves warm ; but

* The railway is now constructed along this valley (January, 1886).

32

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

just before starting, some twenty niggers climbed up on to
our truck, so we were closely packed. Soon, however, the
sparks from the engine, which only burns wood, were so
dense and continuous that we were afraid of our rush-mats
being set on fire ; therefore, at our first stoppage — for we
stopped a dozen times — we rolled them up, and mounted
the seat in front of the engine. We came across several
cows and horses on the line, which is a common occurrence,
and had to pull up quite close to them, blowing the whistle
till they moved off. We also stopped to take in water, and
again in the middle of a forest for wood. At last we
reached this station at 9.30, and, crossing the clearing
through a chilly mist, found the house locked up and every-
body in bed. We managed to knock them up and get
something to eat before turning in, and very glad we were
to have left Carandahy. Our bedroom there had two
window-frames, both without any glass, one looking on the
road, and the other on the general stable, pig, and poultry
yard, with the ditch into which we had to empty the slops
just under the window. Hardly pleasant, certainly not
healthy !

Now, one word as to this “hotel.” The owner, yclept
Senhor Abailard Jose da Cunha, some three months since
bought a portion of land — about an acre — touching the
railway embankment at the station ; he paid ,£30 for it, and
forthwith set to work to build this house. He was pre-
viously engaged on a fazenda, about three leagues off,
where he grew sugar-cane and made rum, the aguardente
of the country. However, he thought this would prove a
more profitable spec.

This house is a one-story affair, with a neat exterior and
clean interior — because it is new. The frame is of wood, and,
as usual, the walls are bamboo framing filled in with mud,

ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 33

while the ceilings are of plaited bamboo. As the divisions
of the rooms only go up to the ceilings — above which is
the roof — of course every sound is heard all over the house.
On approaching from outside you see four doors. The
two centre entrances open into the bar and shop, where
every kind of article required by the Brazilian is obtainable;
out of this shop is the store-room, which has also an outer
door, and is the end of the house in that direction. The
fourth outer door admits to a passage, entering which you
see two cupboard-like bedrooms one within the other,
which have no light or air, except through the door into
the passage. In each of these rooms are two beds. Going
down the passage you reach the sitting-room, into which
open two small bedrooms, each with only one bed ; but
that takes up nearly the whole space. These rooms, at
least, have outer windows. Leaving the sitting-room, the
passage leads to the dining-room, the furniture of which
consists of a long table with a bench on either side ; and
out of this room are three doors, leading to the landlord’s
private apartments, kitchen, etc. It seems the rule in
Brazilian houses to have endless doors to every sitting-
room. The cook and butler is a nigger, who always rushes
forward each time you come in to shake hands, as if you
were the only friend he had in the world. The master
stands by the table or leans his elbows on it, keeping his
hat on and smoking cigarettes all the time you are eating.

To-day we three went for a walk along the railway
towards Queluz, and climbed a hill near the line about five
miles from here. The scenery was beautiful — successive
ranges of hills to the horizon all round ; those to the north,
east, south, and west mostly thickly wooded, but from the
north to the west comparatively bare (campos). Far
away to the S.S.E. rose a very faint outline, which, I

D

34

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

believe, are the Organ Mountains. Returning vve made a
detour through a charming forest — my first walk in the
midst of a tropical wood — and I enjoyed it much. I did
not see many butterflies, but observed two Pyrameis myrinna ,
very similar in appearance to our painted lady ( Pyrameis
cardui), and some fine birds. One had a blue back, white
head, and two long remarkable feathers projecting from its
tail. On the line we saw a coati tied to a tree. Some of
the workmen had caught it that morning, and it was very
fierce, but a nice little animal.

The weather by day is perfect — a cloudless sky generally
all day, with very hot sun from nine till three, but a cool
breeze, then freezing at night. A difference of some 8o°
to 90° Fahr. between the day and night is rather trying to
an English constitution.

Jidy 9. — The chief came up last night with the re-
mainder of the staff and all the luggage, and to-day the
impedimenta were brought over here in five bullock-cart
loads. Some of the tents, which have been pitched on the
clearing in front of this house, are occupied by a few of
the staff, others being filled with luggage.

( 35 )

CHAPTER III.

PRELIMINARY EXPLORATIONS

Estagao Paraopeba.

July 13, 1883. — I returned last night from a three days’
expedition, exploring the country for locating the first
section of the railway, which is to go as far as Brumado.*
I went from here to Brumado (6J leagues), thence to Suas-
suhy (2tj leagues), returning via Sao Amaro (3 leagues) to
this place (3 leagues), making fifteen leagues in all, or about
sixty-three miles.

Leaving Paraopeba on the 10th inst. at 10 a.m., with
one native as my guide, I rode along towards Brumado,
taking observations all the way with aneroid and compass
to enable me to prepare a sketch map on my return, and
indicate the best route (approximately) for the railway.
We put up that night at a small hamlet called Serra dos
olhos d’Agua, about two-thirds of the way to Brumado.
As is usual in all the towns and villages here, there is a
large wooden cross on the roadside, with a cock at the top ;
at the foot a representation of the cloth of St. Veronica,
and a statuette of the Blessed Virgin Mary ; while nailed
to the cross are the instruments of the Passion — nails,
scourge, hammer, pincers, spear, miniature ladder, etc.

* See map.

36

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

We alighted at a hut — I can call it nothing else — with
a verandah. After attending to the horses and taking
them to pasture, we had dinner at six, which was composed
of a few very greasy beef and pork fritters, black beans,
mandioca flour ( farinha ) — like sawdust — rice, and cab-
bage, washed down by sweet white Portuguese wine. We
were attended by some really good-looking negresses, and
our hostess looked on all the time ; the latter had a huge
goitre, also a large quid of black tobacco protruding
from the corner of her mouth, and she expectorated pro-
miscuously on the floor of our dining-room. The house was
lighted up by earthenware lamps shaped like the old Greek
and Roman type, with a wick dipped in castor-oil. My
“ camarade ” and I slept in a small room off the verandah
— without a window — two bedsteads being the whole furni-
ture ; but I must allow that the maize-husk mattresses were
the best I have had for a fortnight.

The next morning, after coffee and “ cacha^a,” *• and
settling our modest bill, we left at 6.30, reaching Brumado
before ten. We went to the house of Senhor Joao Baptista
de Oliveira e Souza, whose acquaintance I had made some
days before, when he rode over to Paraopeba to greet us.
He received us very kindly, and gave me much information
about the neighbourhood, as also a letter of introduction
to a gentleman who has a fazenda (farm) a little beyond
Suassuhy. While I was at Brumado, a priest came in. He
was a jolly sort of man, with a strong tinge of nigger blood,
a small tonsure about an inch in diameter, a lace collar,
white dust-coat, big black straw hat, grey gloves, and top
boots — not exactly one’s idea of a parish priest ; moreover,
he drank Bass’s beer, the cork drawn by an English patent
corkscrew.

* The native rum.

PRELIMINARY EXP LORA LIONS.

37

The road to Suassuhyis remarkable for the innumerable
“barrancas” or “canons,” which, although tiny in comparison
with those of Colorado, are yet very fine. Imagine a track
along the top of a gently sloping and undulating ridge of
open campo, when suddenly you come to a place where the
path dips a little, and has only a slight margin, say with
a total width of four or five feet, while on each side there
is a huge, deep amphitheatre, from whence the red earth
has been washed away by the rains. I saw many of these
barrancas in all stages of formation. They begin with a
subsidence, caused by the undermining of the ground by
springs ; the rains then work upon the subsided portion,
washing it gradually away, and the canon increases in size
as the sides fall in, so that at length you have a huge area
of many acres, in some cases, with more or less precipi-
tous sides, often one hundred to two hundred feet deep,
the whole area being intersected by a hundred fantastic
knife-shaped ridges and columns of bare red earth. The
effect of coming suddenly on one of these chasms in the
midst of an extensive grass-covered down is very remark-
able.*

The farm where we were to lodge was half an hour’s
ride off our route, beyond Suassuhy, in a very pretty
valley, with numerous clumps of the lovely bamboo ; cer-
tainly, so far, my favourite of tropical vegetation, not
excepting the ferns. We reached the Fazenda Boa Vista
at 4.50, and rode into the farmyard, where were two ox-
carts, each drawn by ten oxen, loaded with maize, which
several slaves were busy removing into a shed. Crossing
the yard, we approached the house through a small garden
wherein were fan palms, gardenias, etc., and beyond this
another walled garden, full of orange trees and bananas
* See Geological notes.

33

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

in full fruit. The host was at dinner, to which he imme-
diately gave us a hearty invitation. The food was, as usual,
chicken hash — mostly bones — came secca (sun-dried beef),
rice, farinha, cheese, and preserved Indian corn made into
a sweet. The repast finished, I had a long talk with mine
host, after which coffee came in, and with it his wife.
I rose and saluted her ; she bowed, and begged me to be
seated, and then retired. The women are very much
secluded here ; in fact, I have not yet seen the wife of my
landlord at this hotel, though I have heard her through
the walls. An old gentleman shared my bedroom at the
fazenda. We went to bed at eight, and rose at six next
morning. After coffee, and visiting our beasts, and a
farewell glass of Schiedam, we left the hospitable roof,
taking a youth for a short way to show us the direction
to the main road. He left us when we arrived at the bridge
across the Rio Paraopeba, whence the guide said he knew
— and I thought I could find — the route. The youth
intensely appreciated a milreis, which I gave him for
attending to the horses and pointing out the road. We
reached Sao Amaro by io a.m., and after breakfast and
a walk round about left, arriving here, our starting-point,
late in the afternoon. During this trip I have only seen
one snake ( Cobra coral') that is dangerous, and a large
bird like a small ostrich, called “ciriema.” All snakes are
called “ cobra ” here, which is a deception.

One of our party has been attacked by “jiggers” or
“ chegoes,” but only one so far.* I have been attacked by
numerous carrapatos, which I believe I caught by hanging
my clothes on the bushes when bathing in the river,
because in my three-days’ ride I have found none.

On the road from Sao Amaro hither, I passed through

* See note on Insect torments.

PRELIMINAR Y EXPL ORA TIONS.

39

some grand forest bordering the river. It is very tantalizing
riding through these places so engrossed with compass
and barometer, taking directions, heights, locations, general
lie of ground and descriptions, as to be compelled to
neglect and pass by wonderful plants with brilliant purple,
yellow, or scarlet flowers, orchids, creepers, and insects, too
numerous to mention. The whole time I am on horseback
I have my field-book in my hand, with compass, aneroid,
and pencil, and am jotting down notes.

July 15. — I have been very busy the last two days
portioning out all the instruments, stationery, etc., among
the four sections into which the staff is divided ; and among
ourselves we have also been exchanging different provisions
that we have bought. I, for instance, had two arobas of
coffee (about sixty-four pounds, which cost nine milreis),
the same amount of sugar (price six milreis), and twenty-
five packets of composite candles (150 for fifteen milreis).
Part of these I have exchanged for rice, black beans,
farinha, and dried cod-fish ( baccalhao ). This latter, though
perhaps necessary, I think one of the most disgusting of
eatables, and it is very dear. We paid £3 icw. for a barrel
containing a gross, and when the cask was opened the odour
was intolerable ; the fish were “ sweating,” and had all to
be put out in the sun for two days to dry.*

Three buliock-carts with fifty oxen and a dozen men
arrived the day before yesterday for the expedition to
Pitanguy, but they are so slow they have not yet got off ;
in fact, the flight of time is absolutely unheeded by

* I coidd not abide this stuff, and gave it all away subsequently ; but I
have since heard, at Pernambuco, that when the fish are properly washed (the
water being changed two or three times), and then boiled in cocoa-nut milk,

they are delicious.

40

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

these men, as by most Brazilians. Meanwhile, they add
to the picturesqueness of the scene at night, when the
brilliant moon shines from the cloudless sky on the clearing
surrounded by the dark forest, upon the white and green
tents and on the ox-carts ; while her white light contrasts
with the ruddy flame of the camp fires, which are sur-
rounded by men sitting on their heels, some roasting and
pounding coffee, some cooking their suppers, some smoking,
but all talking. The sight is rather poetic ; but I fear the
men do not feel much romance when they retire under
their own ox-carts to sleep in the frosty air, with very little
to cover them.

I have been rearranging my luggage, with a crowd
of men and boys standing round, who take up and examine
everything, criticizing, admiring, or asking questions about
the different articles.

Cidade de Entre Rios, Antigo Brumado de Suassuhy.

July 17, 1883. — The bullock-carts with the instru-
ments and luggage of the three sections of the survey
beyond Brumado, left Paraopeba on the 15th inst. for this
place. I have already told you how these vehicles crawl
along, but forgot to mention that when I asked the drivers
why they did not oil the wheels to prevent the heart-rend-
ing screech, they said that the oxen delighted in it, and
would not go without it ; in fact, powdered charcoal is rubbed
on the axles to increase the noise ! There’s no accounting
for taste! Our carts are heavily laden, and always keep
together. When they have to descend -a stiff hill, some of
the oxen are unhitched and yoked to the back, so as to
pull against the cart, and prevent its running down quickly.
On the other hand, when ascending, two teams are yoked to
one cart to pull it up ; it is then left at the top, while the

PRELIMINARY EXPLORATIONS.

4i

oxen go down again to bring up the other. You would be
surprised if you saw the country, and what are called roads.
Sometimes one side of the cart is a couple of feet higher
than the other, while the next moment the reverse is the
case, and it is a wonder there are not often upsets. Al-
though the drivers appear to consider their animals in the
matter of affording them sweet music (!), they are fearfully
cruel ; even on level ground the oxen are continually goaded,
so that their bodies are a mass of wounds and sores, especially
on the shoulders ; and when they are pulling against the
cart (going downhill), the drivers stand in front brandishing
their arms, prodding and beating the poor things over the
head, eyes, and neck (yelling the whole time), till they
tremble and shrink back with fright and pain.

Having sent off our impedimenta , and obtained a
sufficient number of mules and horses, we all left yesterday
morning, most of the staff going off at about nine ; while I
remained with the chief, and we were detained an hour and
a half. We had a pleasant ride, stopping at 3.30 for some
German export beer, and “ biscoito de polvilho ” — cakes
made of the gluten (or raw tapioca) from the mandioca
root, very good and nutritious. Our hostess, the woman
with the neck, was glad to see me again, and wished us to
remain, which was impracticable ; so again mounting, we
reached Brumado before seven, and found our companions
had only arrived a quarter of an hour earlier. My bene-
volent friend Joao Baptista entertained us all right royally
at dinner, and placed a house on the opposite side of the
street at our disposal.

Brumado (as it is generally called, though there are
several places of the same name) is a large village of some
twelve hundred inhabitants, and has several very good
houses. It is dubbed a city ( cidade ) after the American

42

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

fashion ; but I defer a fuller description for the present.
One thing, however, I must mention, which is continually
striking me, not only here, but in all the villages, namely,
that there is so little cultivation to be seen, and everybody
appears to have nothing to do but to lounge about and
smoke, while most of the necessaries of life — even food —
such as butter, wine, and beer, etc., are imported.

I have now finished the sketch map, which is the result
of my three days’ expedition, dotting on it a proposed route
for the railway, from the Government trunk line to this
place.* We have shown it to several of the principal people
belonging to this place, who all approve of it. There are,
however, other proposed routes which we must look into and
examine, selecting the one which appears the best. Of course,
length of line and cost have to be taken into consideration.

In the Train.

July 20. — You will be surprised to see that I am again,
so soon, en route to Rio de Janeiro; but business demands
it. I left Brumado in the afternoon of the 1 8th, and, sleep-
ing in a hut at Sao Caetano, reached Paraopeba next
morning early. There were the usual delays in going on
to Carandahy, whither I should have ridden straight but
for requiring some luggage. The contractor’s two small
engines have broken down, and only the “ granda machina,”
as they call an ordinary American engine, is in use. I
expected, at least, that we should get along quicker by it ;
but oh no ! First we stopped to empty some ballast waggons,
twice we pulled up owing to rocks and earth being on the
line ; and at length, when three miles off Carandahy, we
stopped to take up the engineer of the section, who was
about to begin dinner, and we had to wait three-quarters

* This proposed route was that which I eventually surveyed.

PRELIMINA R Y EXPL ORA TIONS.

43

of an hour for him. Meanwhile, our engine was surrounded
by a crowd of navvies, niggers, natives, and Italians, who
came, work being over, some with pots and pans to
get water for cooking, some to perform their ablutions, it
being so much less trouble to get the water from our
engine than to walk five minutes further to an impounded
streamlet. Sad result ! we were again two hours travelling
the eleven miles.

When we stopped at Barbacena, at 8 a.m. to-day,
having left Carandahy at 6.47, a school of boys, with a
master, and a lot of musical instruments, came into the
carriage where I am. They have been rending the air with
their discordant sounds. Every station we come to they
strike up the same tune, besides practising others at in-
tervals, almost without intermission ! The noise is abomin-
able, time is ignored, there is very little pretence of an air,
and, in fact, they seem to enjoy being out of tune rather
than otherwise. Thank goodness ! at two, after about six
hours’ torture, the music ceased. I supposed even they had
had enough of it for a time.

I have made two purchases since I have been up
country, which I think are likely to prove very useful : a
white cotton overcoat, in which I am now travelling, to
keep off the dust ; and a thick native poncho, dark blue,
lined with scarlet, with a black velvet collar. I find the
latter most useful every evening, as also when sleeping in
native huts, or riding early in the morning or late at night.

When the sun set this evening behind the Organ
Mountains, we had a truly grand sight, in the midst of
the most beautiful scenery on this line (which we could not
see coming up on account of the mist). Now, occasional
glimpses of a vast depression, full of smaller ridges of hills,
all covered with dense forest, and backed by the deep purple

44

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

outlines of the lofty Organ Mountains ; then, as we wound
down the sharp curves of the line, breaks in other moun-
tains showed us range beyond range of other more distant
blue ridges, sometimes to the south, sometimes to the
west, while the next moment all disappeared, and we were
passing through a hilly forest, with a few thatched huts,
surrounded by bananas, and little dusky children playing
around, or a whitewashed brown-tiled house in the centre
of a clearing, and an occasional waterfall.

Rio de Janeiro.

July 21. — Though the up-country climate is certainly
much more healthy than here, I confess I was delighted
last evening to find the thermometer 750 Fahr. instead of
350, and to be able to sleep in the costume de nuit
of civilization instead of in trousers under any amount
of wraps. Such is the remarkable difference that three
thousand feet in altitude makes near the Tropic of Capri-
corn in midwinter corresponding to the end of January
with you in England.

I forgot to say I met two of the engineers I had seen
at Oueluz on my downward journey. The first was at
Carandahy, where he arrived the evening I did, coming up
country with his wife, five children, and half a dozen slaves.
His wife dined with us at table d'hote , kept her elbows on
the table the whole time, used knife and fork alternately to
convey the food to her mouth, took up the chicken-bones
with her fingers to pick, and finally made dexterous use of
the “palito” or toothpick.

I have been anxiously awaiting letters from home, but
none have arrived. The day I was at Paraopeba, I received
one packet from the bank at Rio, but the enclosures were
all for the other members of the staff. I now find on

PRELIMINARY EXPLORATIONS.

45

inquiry that three packets of letters besides newspapers
have been sent to me, and that the one I received was the
only parcel without enclosures for me. I expected also to
hear from the Minister and the Consul in answer to my
letters of introduction, which I left before I went up country.
I have written to the postmaster at Carandahy, have
been to the post-office here, and set on foot numerous
inquiries, which I hope will lead to something.*

To-day the streets are crowded by thousands of beggars.
They are allowed by law to beg on Saturday, so they boldly
enter every shop, and attack all the passers-by, while the
church porches are full, as usual, of poor wretches exhibit-
ing ghastly sores to excite sympathy.

Monday, July 23. — Burrell, who came out in the Coto-
paxi, arrived yesterday morning, and took me to church.
It is rather barn-like ; but the stipend is, I believe, £Zoo a
year, the British Minister giving £400, and twenty firms
and banks £20 each. I then went up the inclined plane by
invitation to visit Glover at Santa Theresa. He and Burrell
live with some other Englishmen in a boarding-house on
this hill, which commands one of the finest views of the
Bay of Rio that is to be seen from any inhabited spot.
We climbed about a little in the afternoon, but the heat
was very great ; and it rained such deluges the whole even-
ing that I was glad to accept the kindly offer of a bed, and
returned this morning very much pleased with my first
little excursion here.

July 27. — All my business is completed, but it has been
much delayed by having to await the arrival of certain
steamers ; however, I am off to-morrow. I had really
finished most of what was necessary the first day, but have
been compelled to spend an hour or two at least each day

* Some of these letters turned up two and a half months afterwards.

46

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

in town, though there was really very little to be done.
This has prevented my taking any excursions, but I have
wandered about the town a good deal, and am beginning to
find my way more comfortably. My course of proceeding
for the last week has been as follows : rise at 7, coffee;
breakfast at 8 — this occupies an hour — consisting of two
dozen oysters, rognons sautes , beefsteak a la bordelaise ,
omelette, bottle of red wine, guayabd (guava marmalade)
and bananas, coffee ; then a smoke and letters. Out from
10 to 5 ; dinner at 5.30 or 6 — soup, fish, entremet, roti ,
bananas, and coffee ; then a little stroll, back about 7.30,
write business letters, and generally to bed about 8.30.
Am roused two or three times during the night by
mosquitos or fleas.

One evening I went to the Theatro Imperial de Dom
Pedro II., the finest theatre in Rio, and a really splendid
building, to see a new piece lately brought over from Italy,
and produced under the superintendence of the author ;
it is now creating a great sensation here, and is called
“ Excelsior.” It is, in fact, the only true pantomime I have
ever seen, as it is entirely in dumbshow. The mise en scene
is excellent, the scenery, dresses, etc., superb, and the acting
defies criticism. It is supposed to represent the progress
of invention and discovery, the fairy Science triumphing
over the demons of Ignorance, and is a series of splendidly
arranged tableaux.*

The chief fault I have to find with the theatres here is
the very long time between the acts, twenty minutes or
even longer, when every one goes out and smokes on the
balconies in the cool night air ; but this results in pro-
tracting the entertainment till past midnight.

* “Excelsior” was produced at the Haymarket Theatre in London, 1885,
and was a great success.

PRELIMINAR V EX PL ORA TIONS.

47

July 28. — En route again. The train is very full.
After starting at 5 a.m. I slept till 7.30, but was at first
taken aback by the sight of a man seated opposite me with
a peculiar eye. While he slept, his head leaning against
the cushion, this eye was wide open and glaring at me.
Since it has become light, I find it is a glass eye. After
breakfast we entered into conversation, and he turns out to
be a brother of John the Baptist, who is so very kind to
me at Brumado ; he is getting out at Juiz de Fora, but
before long hopes to return to his home at Brumado.

48

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CHAPTER IV.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

Paraopeba.

July 29, 1883. — On arriving at Carandahy last night, I
went at once to the post-office, but heard no tidings of the
missing letters ; then, as the horses were waiting, I started
with my camarade, who met me at the hotel, for this
place — a long, rather difficult, very lonely and somewhat
weird ride, especially when there is no moon, which was
the case last night. It is mostly through forest, which in
the deathlike stillness of a pitchy dark night has a very
gaunt appearance. We were over three hours riding the
eleven miles, and arrived here at nine, to find Mr. Bithell,
who came over with us in the Cotopaxi, and is now looking
about for work with us, having nothing particular to do,
and I hope he will be successful.* He came up from Rio
de Janeiro the day I went down, so passed me in the train,
and has been vegetating here ever since, daily expecting
my return.

I am now going further up country, as it is necessary to
see the chief without delay, and Mr. Bithell is to accompany
me, which I am glad of, especially as he can speak the

* He was with us from September until we left Brazil, and was then
engaged on the Trans- Andine Railway from Buenos Aires to the Pacific.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

49

language well, having lived in Santa Catherina for five
years.

The following letter was handed me last night at
Carandahy : —

11 To Doctor Dent, Esq.

“ SIR,

“ As I have some practise of Engenier’s emploied,
for fields works, I beg you, if you please, toi take me for
your emploied on the exploration works, and you could see
what I said by this letter I joint to it.

“You may answer me for Carandahy, on the Province
Telegraph’s Estation.

“ I am, sir, wishing you good health,

“Your thank venerator,

“Joseph Peter of Reis.”

I told the good fellow I had no prospect of engaging
him at present, but would give his letter to the chief.*

I have another charge against the postal authorities. I
wrote from Rio to my landlord here on the 2ist, telling
him not to expect me till he saw me. That letter never
arrived. He sent the horses every day to meet me, and
finally telegraphed the day before I left to know when I
was returning. I wired a reply, and the consequence was
that the horses met me when I arrived.

Cajuru, Minas Geraes.

August 5, 1883. — On the 30th ult. we determined to
start as early as possible on our week’s ride ; however, my
mule got loose during the night, and after four hours’ hunt,
she turned up about 10.30. I have not been fortunate so
far with my beasts. The chief bought me a horse at

* I never heard any more of him.

E

50

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Brumado, which I rode back to Paraopeba ; he was then ill,
suffering from a kind of influenza. While I was at Rio, my
camarade dosed him with about twenty different remedies ;
but, or perhaps consequently, he became so bad that it was
impossible to ride him. I was, therefore, compelled to
hire a mule. She has, I fear, been infected by my horse,
and, after the same preliminary symptoms, has now “come
out all over spots, and I think it’s something catching ”
(Sloper). Her hair is all coming off in patches, her face
being already quite bald. She is an awful sight. I am
ashamed to ride her.

Now to describe our journey so far. Leaving soon
after my mule was caught, we rode over those thirty miles
of country I am becoming familiar with, and lodged with
my good friend Senhor Baptista at Brumado, who, semper
eadeni , received us a bras ouverts. Next morning, leaving
there after breakfast, we began the ascent to the watershed
of the two rivers, Paraopeba and Para, both of which, flow-
ing nearly parallel, are tributaries of the Sao Francisco. *

On the roadside we came across a small dead tree, on
whose branches were perched fifteen orioles ( Cassinis
persicus , Linn.), and the concert produced by their all sing-
ing together was beautiful. Like most other birds here,
they were very tame, and allowed us to approach quite
close before they flew off. They are about the size of a
blackbird, with gorgeous yellow and black plumage. At
2 p.m. we reached a hill capped by a great bare white
rock, called Pedra Branca, from whence we had a splendid
panorama of the hills and mountains, the Serra do
Cortume (half-way between Paraopeba and Brumado)
being some twenty-five miles to the south-east. The general
character of all the hills close to the Pedra Branca is bare,

* Our ride can be traced on the map.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

5i

grass-covered, rounded down ( campos ), with occasional canons ;
but towards the divide, to the north, are forest-clad hills.

In half an hour we descended to the Fazenda da
Pedra Branca, where we had coffee and a trayful of most
luscious oranges. A toucan’s head was in the porch, which
the owner gave me as I admired it, telling me they are
very plentiful here. The house, which is over two hundred
years old, is exactly the same in its arrangements as all
other fazendas ; in fact, I believe these country-folk have
never changed since their ancestors took possession, a
couple of centuries ago. They grow castor-oil ( mamona ),
coffee — with which the whole courtyard was covered to
dry in the sun — sugar-cane, cotton, and tobacco. There
were a lot of cats about, the most miserably small skinny
little things I ever saw. One of them was very clever at
turning somersaults ; she put her head between her front
legs, and went head over heels with the gravest look on
her face all the time, which amused us much.

After an hour’s stay we left, and, passing through some
fine forest, arrived at 5.30 on the top of the divide, where
three roads meet. There was nothing but bare grass-covered
hills to be seen, no indication of the proper road, and not
a sign of a human habitation or of any cultivation. We
halted to consider our best move. Being just about sun-
set we were rather anxious, for it was far from pleasant
to be overtaken by night, not knowing the road (my
camarade never having been beyond Brumado), with
nothing to protect us from the cold and heavy dew, and,
worse still, without food. We determined to go straight
on, and began to descend. In a quarter of an hour we
were much relieved to descry a light shining through the
deepening darkness, and approaching, we came upon a
little farm in a hollow, unseen from the top of the hill.

52

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

The owners of the Fazenda do Campo Novo (for so is
the place called) received us with the usual kindly welcome
which the hospitable Mineiros * generally extend to stray
travellers. And while dinner was being prepared, we
strolled into the farmyard and examined the milho (Indian
corn) stores, where two little puppies were playing about,
and a hen, with chickens peeping from under her wings,
was settling down for the night. The owner is a widow,
who lives here with her two sons — fine lads of sixteen and
seventeen ; the latter manage the whole work of the farm.
They grow sugar-cane, maize {milho), and mandioca, and
have also a large garden full of orange trees, whence we
watched the slaughter of the chicken which was to be part
of our evening meal.

This fazenda is one of the less extensive kind ; but they
are all about equally devoid of any of the comforts or
decencies of civilization. The floor throughout is the hard
ground ; the window-frames are supplied with shutters only,
which are closed at night ; the rooms have no ceilings
except the brown roof tiles, and these are fixed to cross
laths lying on the rafters ; the partition walls only reach
to the level of the wall-plate, on which rest the rafters of
the sloping roof, and thus plenty of access for light and
air is afforded under the eaves.

I had a room to myself, with a most comfortable
mattress of the usual milho spathes. Next morning I
woke as it was getting light ; all was as yet still, and, open-
ing the shutter, I found it cold and misty. In about five
minutes the silence was broken by the cocks crowing, and
then the dogs began to bark, chickens to chirp, pigs to
grunt, men to talk, and all was suddenly lively again. After
coffee, and compelling our benevolent hosts to accept a

* Inhabitants of the province of Minas Geraes.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

53

small renumeration, we rode on to Capella Nova, which we
reached in a little more than two hours. I was told that
when the orioles sing together, as we heard the other day,
it is a sign of rain, which accordingly came this morning,
but fortunately very slightly. After descending from the
divide some distance, following a stream — one of the feeders
of the Para — on rounding the corner of a hill we suddenly
came in sight of the village of Capella Nova de Nossa
Senhora do Desterro,* perched on the summit of a bare
red down, but surrounded by partly cleared forest-clad hills.

Alighting at a poor-looking wineshop, we ordered
breakfast. The shop is kept by an Italian, and we met
there a priest, likewise Italian, who had come for a wedding,
a very disreputable man, with striped blue cotton trousers,
a filthy lace collar, and unshaven face. We all had break-
fast together in a very dirty little back room, surrounded
by the usual crowd of natives looking on ; among them was
a very big nigger, who burst into uncontrollable laughter
at hearing us speak English to one another.

The village is the poorest looking that I have seen, the
street being only some thirty feet wide ; the huts — there
are no houses — are all only one story ; and there is a small
chapel. A few palms, aloes, and cacti are to be seen in
the untidy gardens, while a legion of dogs and pigs peram-
bulate the street.

After breakfasting off some roast “ paca,” which is an
excellent white meat, we went to see a live specimen which
had been caught with a young one in a neighbouring wood,
where they abound. The paca is a rodent ( Ccelogenus
fulvus, Cram.), striped very prettily with fawn colour and
white, about the size of a small pig. When hunted it dives
into the stream, and on rising to the surface it is shot.

* The New Chapel of Our Lady of the Desert.

54

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Some very pretty basket-work is made here from the
pith of a creeper called “ sipao,” which is dyed different
bright colours.

Leaving at midday, we continued our journey, and
crossed the Para just below the village ; the river then
turns abruptly to the left, and, taking a considerable bend,
flows far away from the road we travelled. In passing
through a forest, Bithell, thinking he would try his shooting
powers while riding, fired at a tree with his revolver. The
shot glancing off touched my camarade on the shoulder.
He yelled a thousand murders, but he — unlike Rufus, both
in name, which was Fortunato, and in colour, being dusky
— was only frightened, and not hurt in the least.

At 5.15 p.m. we reached the Cidade do Rio de Peixe,
and, inquiring as to the whereabouts of the camp of the
second section, were informed it was a league and a half
away by the Rio Para. We, therefore, hired a guide for two
milreis to take us there, and went through the picturesque
village which is on the top of a hill. It has very steep
streets, and there is much soft white sandstone about.
After leaving the church the road descends rapidly,
passing through a gorge cut in the white sandstone some
eight feet wide by twenty deep, overhung by shrubs and
grass, wherein were the nests of humming-birds.

From the summit near the church we had a fine view
of the valley of the Rio de Peixe, as far as its junction with
the Rio Para, some two leagues and a half distant. At
5.50 we crossed the Rio de Peixe — five hundred feet below
the level of the town — then ascended another hill, and in
half an hour had reached an altitude of only a hundred feet
below the town. At this point, the sun having set, we had
a splendid view. All round us, except where the hill we
were on hid the view, were numerous ranges of mountains,

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

55

mostly undulating, but with one remarkable pyramidal
mass standing far above the other hills. We continued
descending and ascending alternately, going through swamp
and rushes, mandioca and milho fields, and pitchy-dark
forests, until at length, about seven, we saw below us the
distant glimmering light of a camp fire, and in another
quarter of an hour we were distributing a large packet of
letters and newspapers among our friends.

We were regaled on ham and cachaga, and then, after
a long talk with the chief of section, I turned in for the
night on a folding chair, covered by my rug and poncho.
After an excellent night’s rest, and some tinned beef, cakes,
and tea for breakfast, we set off once more, and soon
crossed the Rio Para by the Bombassa bridge. It was as
ramshackle as all the other bridges I have come across,
with hardly any exception. Bridge construction here is
generally as follows : longitudinal timbers are laid upon
the top of the piles which are driven into the river bed, and
on these timbers are placed boughs and sticks — unprepared
in any way — while the crevices are filled up with sods.
There are no side rails, the footway is always full of holes,
and many of the timbers are rotten, and give way under
your weight, so that it is always impossible to ride over
them ; you have to dismount and lead your animals with
much coaxing, as they are often frightened to cross. This
bridge has a specially broken-down look from not being
straight : it extends three-quarters across the river in one
direction, and then suddenly bends up stream to the other
bank.

An hour later we re-crossed the river by another bridge,
which had side railings, but the footway was in a very
dangerous condition, and we hardly dared to go over it.
At midday a very heavy storm came on, so we were obliged

56

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

to seek refuge in a roadside farm, where only women and
children, who are always very numerous, were to be seen.
A very nice-looking coloured girl, with a child on her hips
(the invariable way of carrying children), brought us in
coffee, and soon an ox-cart full of milho arrived, accom-
panied by two men — husband and phe de fainille, and
his brother. They were followed by a cart drawn by ten
goats, laden with wood. This was the first goat-cart we
had seen, but subsequently we fell in with several. While
at Capella Nova, a cart passed us drawn by ten rams.
These carts are all used for the purpose of carrying fire-
wood.

After a pretty good vegetable dinner, the rain having
partly ceased, and wishing to push on to better quarters
than this poor hut, called Fazenda do Sapecado, could
afford, we took our leave and proceeded through the drip-
ping forests along the clay paths — horribly wet and slippery
owing to the rain — reaching the Fazenda da Mata, after
less than an hour’s ride, at 4. 30.

The owner, Coronel * Joao Luiz de Oliveira Campos,
of whom we had heard much on the way up, is a great
man in every sense of the word, and he fought in the Para-
guayan War. He has a wife and two daughters, of whom
we only got an occasional glimpse when they were looking
at us through a nearly closed door ; but his two sons, who
were with us most of the evening, are tall, fine-looking, and
pleasant lads of about eighteen. We also saw his two little
grandchildren, a boy and a girl. All of them are fair-haired
and nice-looking. The colonel is a man with a tall com-
manding figure and presence, very stout, with a long grey
beard. He has an extensive estate and many slaves, as

* Coronel , = Anglic'e Colonel, one of many instances, in Portuguese, of the
substitution of r for l ; e.g. also prat a for plat a — silver.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

57

also hired free men, both black and while, while inside
and around the house were crowds of negresses and black
children of all ages.

The mode of life here is very patriarchal. One is
offered water to wash one’s feet. The natives are very
hospitable, rushing off to kill fowls and prepare food the
moment you arrive. There are also many other customs
which remind one of the time of Abraham, but the spell
is broken when your Abraham appears — with a flowing
beard, it is true, but with a pair of spectacles and a large
Inverness cloak !

We had a good dinner, but rather greasy, of pork,
with the usual vegetables, washed down by home-made
cachaga and water. I can put up with most of the
native diet, but have a great repugnance to drinking spirits
with food.

Of course the first topic of conversation was the railway,
the colonel producing a huge sketch plan which he had made
of the whole country round, as far as the divide by Capella
Nova, and on which he had traced a line which he con-
sidered the best route for the railway — passing through a
good deal of his property, and near the fazendas of many
of his friends. I promised to explore it on my return.

Our host was veiy earnest in cautioning us against fire,
as the most disastrous conflagrations sometimes occur from
carelessness. In 1879 there was a fire here which extended
over two thousand square “ alqueires ” (an alqueire is nearly
twelve acres), and burnt up everything. He examined
minutely my helmet and porpoise-hide long boots, but said
the latter were beyond all reason, because of the breadth
of the sole. He told us that the locality is very healthy.
There is never any illness, and the people are very long-
lived, often attaining a hundred years of age ; one old

58

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

woman living near is a hundred and twenty, her husband
died many years ago at nearly a hundred.* The colonel
has a carpenter, who came in two or three times while we
were there ; he is seventy-five, but appears no more than
sixty, and is a better workman than any of the young men
about the place.

After we had finished our dinner, the table was again
spread, and all the slaves and farm men came in, in relays,
for their evening meal, the feeble flicker of a castor-oil
lamp being the only light in the room. We were led off
early to our bedroom, passing through two other rooms full
of hired men, neither clean nor sweet ; but we soon forgot
everything in a deep sleep.

Next morning, after coffee, we went to visit the turbine
grinding milho, the large shed containing numerous hol-
lowed-out tree-trunks, full of mandioca root steeped in
water, and all other apparatus for extracting the poison
from the root, and for the preparation of farinha. We
also saw the sugar-mills ; and on our return observed a
number of men busy making an extensive hog-yard, sur-
rounded by a strong stone wall, and paved with huge
stones flat on the top. While we were looking on, ten oxen
came in, dragging a kind of sleigh, formed of two logs
fixed together in a V shape, on which were two large
stones and a few smaller pieces, for paving the hog-yard.

We left before nine, the colonel refusing any payment,
and thanking us for our visit and intellectual conversation.
Proceeding on our way, we rode across two fine valleys, in
which were a profusion of palms and tree-ferns. The heavy
clouds gradually dispersed, till by midday the sun was very

* I was shown some time later the portrait of an old negress who lives at
Pitanguy, named Joanna Maria, who is 127 years old, and still does everything
for herself.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

59

hot in the cloudless sky. Reaching the summit of a hill,
we had a fine view down the valley of the Para for a long
distance. This valley, which is thickly wooded near the
river, is wide and tortuous, bounded by low hills, mostly
covered with grass or scrub. By this time, having only
had a cup of coffee, we were longing to discover some
kindly shelter where to obtain breakfast, and were, therefore,
glad at 12.30 to come across a small house by the road-
side.

I had not before seen trees so heavily laden with
oranges as were those in the garden round that fazenda,
where there were also sugar-cane, castor-oil plants, and
gourds. We had a vegetable breakfast, washed down
with water, and an hour afterwards left for this place
(Cajuru). On the way I remarked many large hanging birds’-
nests ( Ostinops cristatus, Gmel.), made of sticks, as well
as those of the Joao de Barro ( Furnarius rufus, Gmel.),
a light brown bird which builds its nest, shaped like a
bee-hive, generally in the fork of a tree. The nest is always
made of mud, hence its name {barro — mud). We met a man
on horseback, who had no hands, only stumps of arms. Of
course, he begged.* I cannot understand how he managed
to ride, but he manipulated the reins somehow between the
stumps. We passed a tile factory, the only one I have yet
seen, though all the houses and most of the huts are roofed
with tiles. The price at the works is thirty milreis per thou-
sand, whereas at Paraopeba they are from forty-five to fifty
milreis. Though these tiles are baked in a kiln, they are
not nearly so hard as ours at home ; in fact, they break
easily, and are very crumbly.

We arrived here (Cajuru) at 5 p.m., August 3, and

* A real “ beggar on horseback.” I know an example in England of a
gentleman who had neither arms nor legs, but was a splendid rider.

6o

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

were met in the town by an old gentleman, who invited us
to stay with him. He took us home and introduced us to
his wife and two pretty daughters, who sat on a bench
opposite us while we were eating a vegetable dinner ; and
behind them was a group of giggling black servant-girls.
The old man meanwhile took his long knife from under his
arm and prepared a cigarette. I have not yet mentioned that
every man and boy carries a knife, with a blade from nine
to twelve inches long, in a case ; those who wear waistcoats
place it in the armhole, hanging inside the vest ; and those
who have none carry it in their belt. These knives are
very useful, and mine host, who keeps a general shop,
recommended me to buy one, saying it would do for any-
thing, from killing a pig to cutting bread and cheese, or
the palha (maize leaf) for a cigarette. The natives make
their cigarettes in milho straw, and they have always a
supply of the leaves which enclose the ear of the milho ;
these they scrape and cut into shape, and stow away, some-
times behind their ears, sometimes inside their hats, so
that they are ready at any moment to squat down, take
out a couple of inches of “ twist ” tobacco, cut it up,
“ rub it out of the flake,” and roll it up in a straw into a
cigarette.

Our host, who is a capitao (captain) in the army, was
much excited about the railway, and longing for its con-
struction. He said that though now there is a fair export,
considering the dearness of transport, when the railway is
open the incentive to production will be much greater, and
the exports could be increased to any extent. The country
all round is very rich, and produces coffee, sugar, cach-
aga, rice, milho, beans, carne secca,* pigs, castor-oil, and
“ farinha de mandioca,” which are carried down to the rail-

* Sun-dried beef.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

61

ways at Barbacena and S. Joao del Rey. Cajuru is the
centre of about forty districts and villages, within six or
seven leagues, which supply a great portion of the exports
of the S. Joao del Rey Railway. These districts will be
tapped by our railway, which will probably take three-
quarters of the traffic away from the little line. A great
saving will also be effected in cost of transit, as S. Joao del
Rey is over one hundred miles away, and cartage is very
costly. That railway now imports from eighty thousand to
ninety thousand sacks of salt annually, of which a great
portion comes in this direction, and its cost here is double
the price it is at Rio de Janeiro. The captain was so
engrossed with his subject that when he showed us to our
bedroom he came in and stood a long time talking of the
coming railway.

Aiigust 4. — The painful screech of a passing ox-cart woke
us at 6.30, and we “ fell to ” with coffee and “ pipoca ” (fried
pop-corn). Fortunately our host asked whether we would
breakfast before we started — which is unusual, as you are
supposed to depart after coffee — and as we had not the
faintest idea where or when we should get any food, we
accepted with joy. While waiting, I bought half a metre
of tobacco, which was rolled on a reel like rope at an Eng-
lish oilman’s, and is sold by lengths !

Our host, who is a sturdy Liberal, began conversing on
politics, and mentioned the names of Lord Palmerston, Mr.
Gladstone, and Lord Russell. I told him the Conservatives
are very strong in England, as he appeared to think they
form quite an insignificant and inconsiderable party. It
was well we had something to draw away our attention
from the breakfast, for it was not sumptuous — eggs, pork,
and marmalade (made of marmello — quince). The pork in
this province is always disgusting, being cut into small

62

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

lumps and fried black in its own fat. The only variety is
in the size of the lumps.

The meal concluded, we set off in search of the camp of
the third section, and after a ride of two hours and a half we
saw through a gate the top of one of the tents we were in
search of, and, crossing a level pasture, alighted, leaving
our horses to a man at the tents while we went along the
“ picadas ” (the path cut through the forest and brush) by
the side of the river Para, until we came across our friends
at work. Owing to information I received from them, I
determined to return to Cajuru ; and so, leaving the camp,
just before sunset, we rode back in two hours in the dark,
having had nothing to eat since we left in the morning.
Right glad were we, therefore, even of a vegetable supper,
which was all we could get, being long past cooking hours,
and the natives consider that a plate of black beans with
farinha, and perhaps rice, is enough for any one.

To-day — August 5 — being Sunday, the country folk
began early to arrive from all round the neighbourhood for
Mass. Some come ten or twelve miles every Sunday, and
the same distance back in the evening. The women and
girls were very picturesque, with black hair, fine eyes, and
brilliant shawls. One of the first I saw come in was a
white woman in a bright green dress, on horseback, with
a child in front of her ; she was followed by a negress in
a red gown, who rode a mule, and had one child in front
and another behind. The men were in their Sunday best
— black coats, clean white unstarched shirts, and cotton
trousers, which look like bed-ticking ; some with buff-
coloured or black long boots, some without, but all with
spurs, which have rowels an inch or an inch and a half in
diameter. Fortunately for their animals, they are not
sharp.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

63

As we were going into church, the priest bowed to us.
The service, which was at midday, was called a Missa
Cantata ; but the choral part consisted merely of a brass
band, which struck up dance music, with much drum
accompaniment, at the most solemn parts of the Liturgy.
After the Gospel and Creed, the priest gave a very good
little sermon on the Good Samaritan, with practical
directions as to entertaining strangers — I suppose with
special reference to us ; and I must repeat that, without
exception, this direction appears to be obeyed to the very
fullest extent, which I am afraid I could hardly say of our
own country.

After service, we dropped into a shop to have some wine.
It turned out to be the house of the priest’s father ; and the
“padre” immediately came from an inner room, asked us
to join his humble dinner, and gave us some more of the
wine, as we had praised it. Dinner ended, he led us off to
his own house, and made me rest in a very comfortable
palm-fibre (purity) hammock, which was stretched across
his study. He has a nice, though small, library of religious
books, and a few sacred pictures. In one corner stood a
cask of some especially good wine, which I need hardly say
he pressed upon us. We had heard that he was a very
devoted and excellent man, a widower, who had kept a
shop. On his wife’s death he sold up his shop and went
away to college, leaving a little daughter, his only child,
with his mother, and in due course was sent back as priest
to his old home. He told us what a great struggle he had
had, and something of the work he had done among the
people for some years ; and we heard that when he had first
arrived, the people were very wild, and went to church with
their long knives and other weapons, brandishing them like
savages. Now they are as quiet as English people, and

64

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

generally much more reverent in church than the great
majority of English congregations. The priest said the
people were suspicious of every one unless he took them up,
and certainly, after walking through the town arm-in-arm
with his reverence, we were treated with more respect.
Our host, the captain, having desired our attendance at
dinner, we went off to him at four, and feasted on “canjica ”
or boiled maize, and “ mocata ” or rice and cow-heels.
After this repast we went to the priest’s house to spend the
evening.

Paraopeba.

A ugust 14. — To conclude the account of my ride up
country. I told you of the Sunday (August 5) we spent at
Cajuru, mostly under the roof of the excellent priest, to
whom I took a great liking. He is of an amiable and
gentle disposition, with a very calm and pleasant face>
though he can be stern when necessary ; he is pretty well
read, can talk very pleasantly, and is not a bigot.

August 6, Monday. — We left about eight to ride to Sao
Gongalo. When just leaving Cajuru, I remarked a woman
with a full water-pot on her head, who had the biggest
goitre I ' have ever seen ; it hung down from her throat at
least six inches on either side. The people about here
appear greatly afflicted by these goitres, but, so far as I
have seen, only the women, and not the men.*

In a little under two hours and a half we reached the
Fazenda Fructuoso, at the end of the third section, and not
far from the camp we visited on Saturday. The family
were just sitting down to breakfast, and, after the usual
invitation to alight, we were requested to assist at the meal,
and a capital one it was ; I never had a better — chicken,
sucking-pig, with the usual etceteras, and “ aipim,” a kind of
* In other localities I have seen both sexes with goitres.

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

65

yam, which when boiled is not unlike mealy potatoes.
There was a shoemaker at breakfast who was much exer-
cised about my long boots and the extremely broad soles,
and he was especially surprised when I told him they
were porpoise hide, made from the skin of a fish (, golfinho ,
in Portuguese) ; such a thing he had never heard of. The
owner of the fazenda is of Indian descent, and is said to be
rather grasping ; but his wife is very nice ; he also was
very civil, and refused any payment for the breakfasts of
our three selves and the horses.

Leaving this hospitable house at midday, we travelled
for three hours, and then reached Sao Gongalo do Para.
This village is charmingly situated on a hill, which is the
general rule , but, though rather large, it is a very poor
place, composed almost entirely of mud huts, with the
exception of two or three houses ; and the children, both
black and white, go about with scanty attire, either a little
shirt or nature’s garb. The churchyard there, as at Cajuru,
is on a hill, and surrounded by sixteen crosses, which are
supposed to keep off evil spirits. The sight it presents is
curious, being a large square bare plot, encompassed by a
wall, without any gravestones, but with these numerous
crosses all round, each ten or twelve feet high.

The village possesses four wine-shops, which are also
general dealers, one apothecary’s shop, and one sort of haber-
dashery store. We stopped at the last wine-shop near the
end of the village, and had some wine, mandioca biscuits,
and coffee, after which we left for Pitanguy ; but before we
had ridden for half an hour, we met the pack-mules,
camarades, and a spare horse belonging to the chief, and
heard that he was intending to sleep at Sao Gongalo, and
put up at the above-named apothecary’s. We, therefore,
returned to the village to await his arrival. In a quarter of

F

66

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

an hour the bedroom allotted to us, which opened into the
street, was full of about twenty men and boys, all come to
examine us, as if we were wild beasts. Presently the priest
came to pay his respects, and then we retired to a back
place for dinner, after which we held another seance for the
lads who wished to see the strangers. At 7 p.m. the chief
arrived, and after his dinner and a little rest, and paying
a short visit, we had a long talk about business till three
next morning.

August 7. — After breakfast we started, a party of eleven,
for a ride to examine a proposed alternative route for the
line, leaving the bank of the river, which is some distance
off, in order to pass near the town. When going over a
rotten bridge soon after the ride began, the front left foot
of the last horse went through the bridge. He rolled over
into the stream, and a stick entered one of his eyes, nearly
blinding him. Fortunately, we were all leading our horses,
otherwise the rider would probably have been killed. As it
happened, the horse emerged on the wrong side of the
stream, and much time was lost getting him across again.
After riding about four miles, at a good pace for a wonder,
we came to a fazenda and sugar-mill on the bank of the
Para, where we had coffee. I gathered a species of Datura ,
and we then rode across country to a valley where there
is a fine “cachoeira” (waterfall); the stream falls about
one hundred feet over a rounded face of rock, which stands
at an angle of some forty-five degrees. On the rocks we
saw a bull which had evidently fallen over a little cliff, and
appeared to be much injured ; so we went to the nearest
hut we could find, and told the inmates of the accident.
After a most enjoyable day and capital ride, we returned
to Sao Gon^alo at 4.30.

On alighting I saw an armadillo-baiting in the street

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

6 7

just opposite where I was staying. It had been caught that
afternoon in the priest’s garden, and being of the hairy,
uneatable kind, which, with its long claws, digs up graves
to indulge its ghoulish propensities, it was sentenced to a
painful and cruel death, by being gradually torn to pieces
by dogs. Poor beast ! At length, by my request, he was
despatched ; but only after all the bones which could be
got at under his armour-plated shell had been broken by
the dogs, and he was bleeding from a hundred bites.
After all, he only followed his instincts in disposing of
buried carcases ; he could not distinguish between a Christian
body or an ox’s carcase, and we will hope he has a happier
future state, as the Rev. J. G. Wood so strongly and ably
sets forth in his work, “ Man and Beast, Here and Hereafter.”
While musing thus, I may also refer to the patient oxen, of
which hundreds of thousands every day are tortured by
their native drivers, while dragging the heavy carts with
great toil and labour up and down those fearful hills, over
the merest apologies for roads. When putting forth the
utmost of their strength, they are beaten, and prodded, and
pulled about as if their poor yoke-laden necks were made of
iron. May we not hope that they too, after their present
life of endless toil and suffering, may enjoy a future state of
rest and peace? It is at least a beautiful thought, and I
do not see that man’s prerogative as the highest of all
created beings, both physically and intellectually, suffers
aught by admitting the lower animals to a future con-
dition of compensation for the ills they undergo in the
present life — a life too often embittered by the thoughtless,
and, alas ! also frequently by the wanton, cruelty of those
who are termed “ the lords of creation.”

But such is the strength of prejudice or of instruction,
that the priest, a man of remarkable gentleness and bene-

68

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

volence, and whose whole life is a constant self-sacrifice for
the good of others, looked on without a word of reproof,
while the poor armadillo was vainly endeavouring to escape
from the dogs, whose jowls were reeking with his life’s
blood. Perhaps the padre thought it was a fitting re-
tribution on one who had violated the quiet resting-places
of good Christians.

Just after a knife, skilfully driven home, had deprived
the poor armadillo of the little life that yet remained, the
six o’clock bell sounded, our priest took off his hat, and all
surrounding him did the same, while his lips moved, utter-
ing inaudibly the prayers appointed by the Roman Church
for that hour.

After dinner the padre came to invite us over to his
house, and we went all round his garden in the little light
that remained before sunset. The garden is large and full
of coffee, sugar-cane, castor-oil, orange trees, yams, bananas,
mandioca, and medicinal herbs. He has a nursery of plants,
with gifts from which he constantly helps the poorer
members of his flock to stock their gardens, free of expense.
There are many little irrigating canals supplied from a
stream running through his garden, and also a fine spring
conducted through a good bath, which, wonderful to relate,
he makes use of every day. He gave us coffee, white wine,
and “ mamath,” which is a kind of fermented sponge cake,
besides other delicacies. We talked of the country and
neighbourhood, and also of his parish, which is very ex-
tensive, some villages being four leagues off (sixteen miles).
The total population of the “ povoada,” or parish, is about
three thousand. He spoke of the extreme beauty of the
valley of the Rio Sao Francisco, into which the Rio Para
empties itself, about seven leagues below Pitanguy. The
valley of the Sao Francisco is very wide, in some parts

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

63

being as much as three leagues ; it is densely wooded, and
abounds in wild animals.

This priest interested me much ; I was charmed with
him. In fact, the two priests of Cajuru and Sao Gongalo
were both most amiable men, though of very different
temperaments : the former somewhat jovial, middle aged,
and a widower, with a nice little daughter of fourteen ; the
latter very young, quiet almost to sadness, and more re-
ticent. Both alike are hard workers, very much beloved by
their people, and have done much good, very different to
that Italian priest I met at Capella Nova, of whom no one
said a good word, and whom I disliked, while his conver-
sation was the reverse of profitable.

The priest at Sao Gongalo, Padre Hippolyto de Oliveira
Campos, has, besides his large garden (containing a lake, on
which he paddles about in a canoe), a large roomy house,
with some very break-neck log-steps leading from a veran-
dah into the garden. The house is of two stories, and the
rooms are large and lofty; most of them are unfurnished,
and the remainder have very little furniture to boast of.
His bedroom has a ceiling, and whitewashed walls, on which
hang some very good sacred oleographs and other devo-
tional pictures. He has also a small but comprehensive
library of religious books. While sitting in his room, our
privacy was invaded by many men and boys, who came in
uninvited, as is the custom of the country, and, sitting down,
smoked cigarettes in silence.

Next morning, after breakfast, when we had some
delicious “palmita,”or boiled cabbage-palm, and “ pirao,”
which was an olha podrida, or untold mixture, we went to
bid adieu to our good priest. He was in bed unwell, but
received us very kindly, and bade us “ boa viagem.” We
then left at 9.45, and repaired once more to the Fazenda
Fructuosa.

70

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

I must say it was Avith the very greatest regret that I
began to retrace my steps ; but work had to be done. I was
sorry to be unable even to reach Pitanguy, only seven
leagues further, and I heard most glowing accounts of that
city of about three thousand inhabitants, and of the kind-
ness of the people there. Besides, there are to be seen the
tapir, “capivara,” or water-hog, anacondas twenty metres
long, boa constrictors, and the onga, or yellow leopard. It
was very tantalizing, too, after having gone so far, to hear
of the really wild parts on the Rio Sao Francisco — that is
to say, wild as far as animals are concerned, for Indians
are not within ten days’ ride — and then to have to return
to the tame and comparatively civilized regions.

However, at the Fazenda Fructuosa we were received
with open arms, and the kind hostess, who had taken quite
a fancy to me, bewildered me by offering cachaga under
the names of “ corneo,” “ samba,” and “ ristiro,” or “ ristillo.”
The whole household, with a dozen female slaves, were busy
picking and winnowing Indian corn. Our hostess gave us
some excellent Tangerinas de terra (small lemons), looking
exactly like oranges. She then led me into a back room, and
gave me some water and “ ristiri ” to wash in. This is the

first time I have used F. M ’s recipe ; you may remember

he told me never to wash without putting a little spirit into
the water. I certainly found it refreshing, but the smell of
spirit is so obnoxious I could never use it as a rule. She
then took me into their bedroom, away from the others,
where were some ladies and children. We had a little confab,
and she brought out a bottle of special liquor for my
benefit, which was not unacceptable. We were then treated
to coffee and hot cakes, after which we again visited the
camp, finally reaching Cajuru about six.

After dinner we went to see the priest. He was at his

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

7 1

parents’, so we adjourned there, and were entertained with
music (guitar, trombone, and concertina) and songs to the
guitar, and we passed a very pleasant evening. I took the
opportunity of asking the reverend gentleman why they had
no sacred music, only dance music in church ; he said the
people were not educated up to it yet, but he hoped in time
to introduce it.

The following morning, after taking leave of the priest,
and our host the captain, we rode off about ten. Travel-
ling by a rather different route to that we had come up
by, we called a halt at 3.30 for half an hour to rest the
horses and have some lunch. We stopped opposite a
nigger’s hut, where there were only three women and some
children at home. We gave them some cheese, and a little
boy then brought us a calabash full of small fish, and also
one large one. We presented the little fellow with two
hundred reis (fourpence), with which they were very
pleased. They told us that their way of catching fish is
to pour some poison into the stream ; this kills the fish,
which float on the surface. I did not much care for the
idea of eating poisoned fish, but did so, and derived no
harm from it. Were it injurious, of course the natives,
who only make use of the poison to supply themselves
with food, would choose some other method.

In one of the fine valleys full of palms, on the way to
the Fazenda da Mata, we came across fourteen “urubus”
( Cathartes urubitinga, Pelz., a black vulture larger than a
turkey) all perched on one dead tree.

I was rather reluctant to take such a large party — for
we numbered nine men and thirteen animals — to claim the
hospitality of the gallant colonel of the Fazenda da Mata ;
but there being no other place we could shelter in, we were
compelled to go there, and he received us with as much

72

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

empressement as if we were his oldest friends, and did not
appear the least disturbed at the size of our caravan. He,
of course, talked long and eloquently about his route for
the railway, which we promised to go over the next day.
The principal produce of his farm besides maize is cotton,
of which he sends four hundred arobas (13,094^ lbs.) yearly
to Sao Joao del Rey, whence it goes to all parts, as the
southern portions of the province do not produce much.
He also grows grapes, and makes wine, which he sells at
eight milreis (about 13^. 4 d. to 14^. 8 d.) per “barril” of
twenty-one litres, including the cask.

By the way, speaking of “going to all parts,” I asked
a man the other day where a certain road led to ; he
answered, “Well, first to Barbacena, then to the whole
world.”

August 10. — We left the fazenda at about ten, having
first insisted on the colonel receiving payment for the
maize our beasts had eaten, and after much pressing he
took ten milreis. In about two hours we reached the old
camping-ground of the second section, and found the tents
removed, so we had to ride or walk through the “ picadas ”
(lines cut through the woods) till we came across the party
at three p.m. After a long talk we returned a distance of
two leagues to the “ city ” of Rio de Peixe, reaching at
length the same path from which I saw the fine sunset
on my first journey.

Arrived at the village, we put up at a small house
owned by a gigantic nigger, where the accommodation was
nothing remarkable, but the food was excellent ; and after
dinner we went up town to pay visits and gather opinions
on the colonel’s proposed route ; the general feeling seemed
rather opposed to it.

August 11. — Having obtained a guide, we set off at ten

RIDE UP COUNTRY.

73

to explore the newly proposed Peixe Valley route. Our
guide was an elderly grey-haired man, but very strong and
sturdy ; he was on foot, and shoeless, but he set out at
a rapid though steady pace, which he kept up the whole
distance to Capella Nova. He often goes about as a courier,
carrying letters and money, and is always on foot and alone.

Just after leaving Rio de Peixe, we met a party of
thirteen men, women, and children on horseback, going
to a wedding ; and I must confess the bride did not look
over joyful. We rested on the way and had some delicious
red lemons, while we watched some niggers uprooting yams
and mandioca. In one of the forests we saw a “ sagui ” or
marmoset, a lovely little brown creature. We arrived at
Capella Nova at 3.45, after a very pleasant ride ; but, as we
expected, did not find the colonel’s route a good track
for the railway. It would require several tunnels, besides
ascending and descending grades of a far greater per-
centage than could possibly be employed, so there was no
need to go over it with an instrument.

Arrived at Capella Nova, as there was no house large
enough to receive us all, we divided into two parties. My
division did not alight at the Italian’s where I stayed the
last time, but at another wine-shop. I had my dinner in
public on the shop counter, and then had to make peace
with my former host by telling him I wished to divide -my
custom.

We were given an old cabin to sleep in. I went to see
it, and refused to stay there ; it was too frightfully dirty.
I then went and took possession of a new unfurnished
house — the chief lent me a cork mattress — and, with my
saddle-bags for a pillow, and my old rug and poncho for
coverings, passed a most beautiful night, going to bed
at 8.30. ,

74

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

The next morning we were up early, but did not get
away till ten. I saw a pig running along the street with
a huge triangular piece of skin, some three inches long,
hanging down, torn off his back. I suppose he had been
caught by some of the fearfully strong thorns which abound.
Poor brute ! At 2 p.m., having crossed the divide and
examined the bare downs for the best point for the crossing
of the line, passing through a dense forest we reached a
fazenda, outside which we sat by the side of a stream for
lunch. We tried to go inside the fazenda, but the men
were all out and we got into the midst of some thousands
of bees which were swarming on the verandah, so we
thought it better to beat a retreat. I was tantalized by
seeing some huge Papilios (P. Thoas), Erycinidce, Pier idee,
Callidryas, and other lovely butterflies settling on the damp
earth beside the stream ; but, not having my net at hand,
had to be content with watching them. We then rode
along by a different route to the one I had travelled by
before, and, leaving the Pedra Branca far to the right,
arrived at Brumado at 5.45, sleeping, as usual, at the house
of Senhor Joao Baptista, who received us with his unfailing
genial and importunate kindness.

The next day, August 13, we rode to Paraopeba, and
put up in our rooms at the hotel or inn near the station.

Thus ended my fortnight’s trip up country, which was
most enjoyable in every way, both from the pleasure of
seeing the country and from the universal kindness of
all those I came across, and it will be long ere I shall
forget it.

( 75 )

CHAPTER V.

I START ON CAMP LIFE.

In camp , on the Serra do Cortume, near Casa Grande.
August 1 8, 1883. — At length I am in camp. On the 15th
the bullock-cart arrived to take the impedimenta of the first
section to some place in this neighbourhood, which I had
to fix upon, and I was very busy distributing all our lug-
gage, instruments, etc., into three lots — one to remain in
our rooms at Paraopeba, the second to go to camp, the
third to be conveyed by the bullock-cart to Brumado. The
cart was sent on ahead the same day, and I left early
the next morning, riding alone, as the men I had engaged
all seemed either unable or unwilling to depart till the next
day. I saw en route one ciriema ( Cariama cristate 1) and
one humming-bird, and nothing else remarkable.

After about three hours’ ride, I was joined by my future
cook, Antonio by name, when I was approaching Casa
Grande. This village is a very straggling affair, consisting
of a few small squalid houses, huts, and cabins scattered at
intervals for about a couple of miles at the side of the
road ; there is no church or chapel, and only one small
general shop. This apology for a village ends opposite
my camp, just before the ascent to the divide.

Having given instructions for the ox-cart to stop near

76

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

this place, we found it on our arrival, and, choosing a spot,
we began to pitch camp, unloading the baggage with the
help of two of the villagers and some boys. In an hour
we had fixed up the two tents. Ours is ten feet square ;
the luggage tent, which the men will also use, is circular,
twenty feet in diameter.

Our camp is some two hundred yards from the road,
on the grassy slope of a hill in a small side valley. There
is a good stream of pure water just below us. I sent
Antonio for fowls, while I fetched water and built a fire to
prepare some dinner ; but at 6 p.m. one of the men who
had assisted us in pitching camp came to invite us to dine
at his hut. We accepted, and were joined by my former
camarade Fortunato, who had just arrived, being now
employed as courier to the staff.

The benevolent villager, yclept Aleixo Tavares de Car-
valho, gave us an excellent dinner of fowls, etc., laid out
on a vacant bedstead, his wife and four small children
serving us. He refused payment, saying it is his duty to
entertain strangers. I was sorry, as he appears poor ; but he
is to supply us with fowls and other things. After dinner
we returned to camp, and an elder son, another Antonio,
who had been keeping guard, went home, only, however, to
return before long with his father to have a long talk ; but
I left them principally to the camarades. Rolling my-
self up in my poncho and rug, 1 laid down on a couple of
rush mats, with my revolver under the satchel that formed
my pillow, and was asleep in a minute.

The fire was lit early next morning, and I made some
coffee (from condensed extract) and soup (from a tablet of
riz au gras julienne and Brand’s essence) for the benefit
of the courier, who had to go off early, as well as for our-
selves ; then the man prepared breakfast, which consisted

I START ON CAMP LIFE.

77

of the remains of the soup, a chicken, some “ toucinho ”
(salt pork), and farinha.

After breakfast I went out on one of the ridges to
explore, but before long, seeing a storm coming up from
the north, had to rush back, and reached the tent just in
time to avoid a drenching. The thunder over the wooded
range of the Serra do Cortume was very heavy, and accom-
panied by a terrific deluge ; but it passed off in an hour,
and the sun shone out again with his delightful warmth.

The only insects that have found me out at present are
numberless red ants, with remarkably large heads and
powerful mandibles, called cabegudo ; also the usual car-
rapatos ; and I have seen several fireflies.

The canteen I bought at Silver’s is most useful ; in
fact, at present it forms the whole of my cooking apparatus.

August 20. — Just after the storm on the 17th, the rest
of my party arrived, bringing letters and newspapers from
England up to the 16th of July, dated Rio, August 10th.
Much time is lost in the transit of letters up country when
they leave the railway.

On the 1 8th I went exploring, taking men with" machado”
(axe) and “ fauces ” (bill-hooks), while I had “ facao ” (long
knife), aneroid, compass, etc. But I must now explain
why I begin work here instead of at either end.

Having settled upon the general line of route to be
surveyed from the Government Trunk Railway (the E. F.
Dom Pedro II.) to Brumado, which line, after careful ex-
amination and consideration of some six other proposed
routes, appears certainly the shortest and most convenient ;

I have now to determine whether it is also the most prac-
ticable and cheapest, as there is one point nearly half-way
that may be troublesome, owing to our being compelled to

78

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

pass over a certain ridge forming a portion of a large clump
of rounded hills, called the Serra do Cortume, which rise
to a height of about five thousand feet. I have, therefore,
come to this place to find out whether I can get workable
ascending and descending grades.

The result of the day’s work was that, after going about
for some hours and a good deal of wood-cutting, I found
the lowest point of the ridge, and on returning to camp I
made a detailed sketch plan, by which I am glad to find
the route marked on my original rough outline map is
certainly the best ; so now it only remains to go over it
with the level*

August 19th being Sunday, some of my men went over
with me to Sao Amaro, which is some eight miles off, to
attend the service, as a propitious beginning to the regular
work of to-day (August 20th). I enjoyed the charming ride
much ; the service was quiet and reverent, and the priest gave
a good sermon on “ Bring forth, therefore, fruits meet for
repentance.” The church was crowded, and after service
we were entertained at the house of one of my men (Arturo)
who lives there.

Camp No. 2.

August 2 6. — I have now had a week of good work, but
unfortunately lost one day owing to having to change camp.
The reason was this. A few days ago a case of small-pox
broke out in a cottage about five minutes’ walk above us ;
it was a man who had come home from a distance. I
thought we were pretty safe, but finding the people from
that cottage washed their clothes in the stream we drank
from, ordered the men to fetch the water from a source

* The grades worked out satisfactoril]’ without any heavy cutting, and the
detailed plans and sections were approved of and passed by the President of
the Province early in 1884. Construction began January 6, 1885.

SERRA DO CORTUME (LOOKING NORTH-WEST FROM CAMP NO. 2).

I START ON CAMP LIFE.

79

further away. I found out next day that, to save trouble,
they were still using the original stream, and then a sort
of panic arose. So 1 had to shift camp, and, fortunately,
this is a much better site in every respect — in another
small valley concealed from the road by bushes, and more
picturesque, though not five minutes’ walk over the brow
from the old camp. Now to resume my journal.

August 22. — The place where my line crosses the divide
is a low ridge (1012 m., or 3329 ft.), from the neighbour-
ing Serra do Cortume, and is for some distance covered by
dense “ capoeira,” or second growth after the virgin forest —
viata virgem — has been cut down. This is one of the most
abominable kinds of stuff to go through, owing to the thick
undergrowth of creepers, etc. I first cut a path from a
neighbouring horse-track down to the desired point, where,
along the summit, there is a long, broad “ vallo,” or ditch,
which is a boundary of the property of Major Joao Ferreira,
of the Fazenda do Cortume, to whom I shall refer later. I
next set out lines both ways, and had picadas cut to the
east and west. Then, leaving three men to construct a
rough bridge over the vallo, and a stile on the further side
to prevent cattle crossing, I went forward with two men —
Joscelino and Antonio da Costa Campo, sons of my guide
Fortunato — to drive lines ahead, coming across exposed
rocks near the summit, and then passing numerous- gullies
twenty or thirty feet deep, with sometimes a nasty bit of
marsh at the bottom.

In the evening Aleixo and his wife came to visit me,
bringing a beautiful hot cake for “ o Senhor Doutor ” (my-
self). They told us of the neighbouring “ bichiga ” (small-
pox) ; hence the hullaballoo I mentioned in a former letter.

August 24. — A nigger came in early, bringing four new-
laid eggs as an offering to the Senhor Doutor. I went

8o

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

hunting about in the mist for the site of a new camp till
eleven. Then I removed the camp, with the aid of my
men and four horses ; and finally six men and two lads
brought over bodily the thatched rancho, or shed, I had
had constructed to protect the cook’s fire when it rains ;
being all tied together with “ llianas,” it was quite flexible,
and none the worse for its removal. The next day the
camp was perfumed all day long by the burning of a wood
called “ camara,” which smells like incense.

August 26. — Went off about 9.30, for Sao Amaro,
where there was a special intercession at the church to
keep off the small-pox. I passed crowds of people on the
road. I called upon the padre, who is nice, but requires
“ drawing out.” There is a large wooden cross in front
of the church, with the implements of the Passion — nails,
ladder, pincers, etc. — nailed on it. All the women and
some of the men kiss it most reverently before entering the
church. There are no seats, but a fixed barrier between
the nave and the chancel. The womens quat or kneel in
the body of the church, the men and boys standing or
kneeling in the chancel.

August 27. — I have been inconvenienced by not getting
my luggage. When the ox-cart reached Paraopeba, on the
15th, I was very busy ; so, after seeing that the instruments,
etc., were laden up, I left my personal baggage to others.
The result was that all went wrong — it never came ! and
I had to send back for it. Then, again, there was a muddle,
and, though my instructions were very plain, the landlord
did not know what to send ; so this morning the “carreiro ”
(ox-cart driver) arrived early, asking for instructions, but
stating at the same time that he would not go back, as the
small-pox was very bad at Paraopeba. (Nice for me, who
had worn one shirt for a fortnight !) Then there was

I START ON CAMP LIFE.

81

another commotion among my men, most of whom live at
Paraopeba. I had to appease them, and said, What was
the good of going sixteen miles one day to make special
intercession against small-pox, and the next day getting
into a “ blue funk ” about it, thinking their prayers were
not heard ? Then I had to bargain with three men, and,
after a lot of haggling and naggling and beating down
exorbitant prices, I arranged with one fellow to go and get
my things. He afterwards turned “ funky ” and did not
go. After all, I settled with another man, who finally
brought up all I needed on September i. So I was at
last comfortable, after nearly three weeks of comparative
roughing it, as far as bed and bedding were concerned.

August 28. — I found my poor little bridge destroyed,
two flag-poles (ranging-rods) carried off, and three angle-
pegs torn up, by the orders of the owner of the land.

August 29. — I have omitted to mention before, that
when the chief returned from Pitanguy he brought with him
a young man, one of the masters at the collegio there, to
spend the vacation of two months in my camp, and to
learn English. His name is Vicente de Azevedo Souza,
aged nineteen. I like him very much, and he has chosen
to stay with me, and not go about with the chief. To-day
he shot, in the picada, a very pretty species of “ Picapao,”
woodpecker ( Celeus Jlavescens, Gmel.), which has a long
yellow crest on his head. I bought for dinner a “jacu,”
which is larger than a fowl, brown meat, fat, and delicious.
In the evening I shot some ortolans ( rola ), which are per-
fection ; so our larder is well stocked, and the expenses
are low. During the first ten days the cost of my living
in camp was sixteen shillings, exclusive of liquor. Pro-
visions are cheap, as a rule : rice is 200 reis (4V.) a litre,
feijoes 4 d., farinha 3 d., coffee 15^. a kilo., chickens 4 d. or 5 d.

G

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

each, cocks and hens \6d., sugar 8 d. a kilo., cachaga 4 d.
a pint, white (Portuguese) wine a milreis, and “laranginha”
(orange gin) two milreis a bottle, pork 12 d. a kilo., eggs
a halfpenny each. Swedish safety matches are yd. per
packet.

Augiist 30. — I caught a small scorpion about an inch
and a half long. In the evening I made a pleasant dis-
covery. I have rigged up a stand for my washing-basin,
composed of four sticks stuck in the ground ; it has four
trays for holding soap, flannel, sponges, etc. I had also
placed some guava marmalade on the lowest shelf, and for
some days I have seen armies of the cabegudo ant marching
up the legs of the stand empty, and descending with lumps
of the sweet stuff ; but I could not find where they lived.
To-night I went to my pillow (the saddle-bags) to take
out two small cakes I placed there yesterday, and to my
horror found at least two hundred ants consuming these
delicacies, one of which was half eaten ! “ I went for them,”
and prevented their devouring any more by gobbling up
the remainder, and then “ taught them not to do it again,”
with carbolic acid. Tracing them out, I found they had
dug a nest under my pillow, eaten two canvas straps of the
saddle-bags, and had a store of sweet stuff besides. I dis-
posed of the colony, and slept peacefully with my head
over their hole. Now I remove my mat every day to
examine.

Fortunately these ants are harmless, for they swarm,
and two have just crossed this paper with outstretched
mandibles to inspect what I was saying about their defunct
relatives.

September 1. — The chief arrived last night, and to-day
I have been showing him the work. He is satisfied, and
specially praised the state of the camp and the men, saying

/ START ON CAMP LIFE.

83

I had made them work, and, what was more, rendered
them contented and pleased.

September 2. — I rode into Brumado with Vicente to
give a little present from myself and the chief to Joao
Baptista. It consisted of silver-mounted whip, spurs, and
harness for a horse.

Camp near Serra.

September 13. — The natives are really a very excellent
set of people. Perhaps the chief fault I can find with them
is that they do not consider time at all, and do not under-
stand what it is to be in a hurry, which is sometimes very
trying. They are very religious, and never take leave of
you without saying, “ God be with you.” When you ask
how they are, they reply, “ Quite well, thanks be to God,”
or, “by the Grace of God.” When they speak of any
future act, they say, “ I will do it, if God permits,” or “ God
willing.” They ride two or three leagues to Mass every
Sunday, or more generally walk it, and are always willing
to do anything for you for the “ love of God.” They are
simple-minded, honest, affectionate, and hospitable, and if
they are too superstitious, it is from their education.

I told you of my ride into Brumado, on the second of
this month. On the road I passed a dead ox, on which
were eight urubus feeding ; the odour from the carcase
was agreeably counteracted further on by an orange garden
full of blossom. Most of the oranges are now over, but
there are some trees bearing both flowers and fruit.

At Brumado there was a great procession, with litanies
and a special midday Mass, to keep off the small-pox. The
sight was very picturesque. The crucifer led the way ;
then came some green bower-like contrivances surrounding
the images of S. Sebastian (the protector against disease)

84

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

and of our Lord ; there was also a large banner, repre-
senting Christ with outstretched arms in the act of blessing ;
then the image of the Virgin, followed by a number of tiny
girls in white, with wreaths and veils ; then all the men
from the neighbourhood in four rows, walking in Indian
file. The priest closed the procession, dressed in a white
and gold cope, under a canopy carried by six men ; and
behind him came a huge mixed mass of women and children.
They passed twice through the village, from the cross at
one end to the cross at the other end, the church bells
making the most terrific din the whole time.

For the last ten days it has been uninterruptedly
fine, cloudless, and grilling from io a.m. to 4 p.m. (ther-
mometer ioo° to 1200 Fahr. in the sunshine), though, with
cool breezes, and very cold at night, the thermometer
going down to 36° or 37°

September 4. — Just before breakfast, an old nigger and
negress appeared grinning at the door of my tent, and
produced from a bag a fine “tatu” (armadillo), which they
requested me to accept. I took it with pleasure ; but, of
course, gave them some money, and also a nip of cacha^a
to the old man. It is an invariable custom, when you go to
see any of the fazendeiros, for them to offer you a “ matar
bicho ” — literally, “ kill the worm,” that is, a nip of spirits.
And it is generally the second remark addressed to you
on riding along, when you stop at a house, the first greeting
being always “appeia,” that is “alight/’

We had the armadillo for dinner. The flesh is white
and very delicate, but rich and preferable to pork. We also
added some more ortolans to our larder, and “ nhambu,”
a kind of grouse, with white flesh; and “biscoitos de
polvilho,” “broas” (cakes made from “ fuba,” or ground
maize), and “ cara, ” or yams. I may here mention the

I START ON CAMP LIFE.

8S

stereotyped style of cookery, so far as I have seen. I he
cook first takes some toucinho (salted fat pork) and puts
it into a pot over the fire to melt ; then, after mixing a little
water with the melted grease, he pours some of it into
three or more other pots, in one of which is the chicken,
armadillo, nhambu, rola — any of them, or all together ; in a
second pot will be rice, in a third feijoes, and so on. When
the meal is cooked, the black pots are brought into my
tent, and I partake of the greasy mess, washing it down
with white wine, which is very sweet. If I can get bread
so much the better ; if not, I have to be satisfied with
farinha, which looks just like white sawdust, to try and
take off a little of the superabundant grease.

September 7. — I found that a large “ marimbombo’s ”
(wasp) nest, which was built on the ground in the middle
of my picada, had, during the night, been eaten up by a
tatu, or at least most of its inhabitants were destroyed, and
the nest torn to atoms, of which I was very glad, as my
men were much afraid of it, being very cowardly.

At 2 p.m. a man came to tell me that Dr. Rebougas
had arrived, so I had to return to camp immediately, where
I found Dr. Rebougas, Dr. Amerigo dos Santos, and some
other visitors. After a long talk and examination of the
rough plans, we all rode off together to inspect as much
as could be seen from horseback, and I then accompanied
the party a few miles on their way to Brumado.

September 8. — I had to go into Brumado to see the chief,
and disturbed a vast company of fifty-six urubus, or
vultures, and one “ gaviao ” (hawk), who were gorging on
the bullock I before mentioned. My benevolent chief,* to

* Mr. George Ransom. After leaving us he was employed on railway
construction in the Argentine Republic, and was unfortunately killed while in
the execution of his duty at Vipos Station, Tucuman, on the North Central
Railway, November n, 1885.

86

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

vary the monotony of camp cooking, regaled me on an
omelette anx points d'aspcrge, entre cote a la bordelaise, and
mayonnaise of chicken. He is a wonderful cook, and these
delicacies were prepared under his supervision.

When I rode back, alone, the vultures had given place
to fifteen hawks, some of which were inside the carcase.

We shifted camp to this place on the nth, and again
my preserved eatables proved most useful. I was told
there was a wolf in the neighbourhood, and the fowls all
took the precaution of roosting at the top of a big tree,
under which is our rancho, used for cooking. At eleven
o’clock I was awakened by the two dogs barking, and a few
moments after there was a terrific yell from Vicente, whose
tent is some dozen feet from mine : “ O lobo esta na minha
barraca ” (“ The wolf is in my tent”). I jumped up, seized
my gun, and rushed out ; but he was off. His wet foot-
marks were plain on the side of the tent where he had tried
to get in. Calling to some of the men to follow, I went
off to see whether I could find any trace of him, but
returned in about a quarter of an hour, having seen nothing
The men were all crouching round the dying embers of the
fire, and told me it was very dangerous to go alone after
the wolf. I said that was their fault for not accompanying
me. Next night he came again at seven o’clock, and we
went after him ; but he disappeared, and we have not seen
him since.* I suspect that he came after the fowls.

September 12. — This has been my worst day of carrapatos.
On returning from the work I removed, or had taken off

* Captain R. F. Burton mentions it as the Guara wolf (Canis Mexicanns ) of
Cuvier. He says, “ I have seen closely but a single specimen, which much
resembled the French wolf, except that the coat was redder. This carnivor
especially favours the lands where forest and prairie meet or mix. I have never
heard of it attacking man ; but, on the other hand, there are no snows to
make it ravenous.” — “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. ii. p. 54.

/ START ON CAMP LIFE.

87

me, 279, and during the night I got rid of thirty-five more.
I had been too tired to sponge with diluted carbolic acid ,
but, as a rule, by taking proper precautions I never have to
pick off more than fifty from my body, though my flannel
shirt is always red in patches, with masses of the wretches
round the waist and under the arms.

September 13.— -I went off after a toucan before break-
fast, but could not get within shot. The position of this
camp is far wilder than the other ; it is on a rapidly sloping
grass-covered down or campo, which forms one side of a
little cul-de-sac valley, extending to the Rio Camapuao.
There is a stream which flows from a spring just below the
camp, and across the stream a dense forest, whence proceed
the chatter of monkeys, the screech of parrots, and harsh,
discordant caw-caw of the toucan ; we also hear the soft
note of ciriema, and many other birds. Parrot flesh is now
added to our larder.

Vicente found three nests of different species of honey
bees in the trunks of trees to-day ; the honey was delicious,
and smelt like new-mown hay.

September 14. — At four o’clock this morning we had
another exciting visitor ; this time it was an onga, 01-
ounce, supposed to be more dangerous and braver than
the lobo, or wolf. He, alas ! also got away before I
could see him ; but one of the men told me he was the
“ onga sussuarana.” There is another species found in the
neighbourhood, the “ onga pintada.” *

* Captain Burton says, “ Doubtless in the early days of colonization, when
hese large cats knew nothing of the gun, they were dangerous enough ; at
present their courage seems to have cooled, and the Matador d’On5as —
tueur d’onces — once so celebrated in Brazil, finds his occupation gone. Many
travellers have seen nothing of this king of cats, except the places where it
sharpens its claws. I have had experience of one live specimen, and that, too,
"by night. The people still fear them, especially at night, and have many

88

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

The temperature in this camp at night is io° Falir.
warmer than at my last camp, and the minimum has not
gone below 48° Fahr. ; the locality is not much lower, but
being on the north side of the divide it is sheltered from
the cold south winds.

traditional tales of their misdeeds. They are still very dangerous to dogs,
monkeys after which they climb, to the capyvara an especial favourite, and to
the young of black cattle.”

( 89 )

CHAPTER VI.

SPRING-TIME AND BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

September 29, 1883. — I have been told for some time that
the rains would begin on September 1 5, and with marvellous
punctuality during the grey dawn of that morning down
came the first showers. The minimum that night was 56°.
The day was a mixture of English spring and autumn.
By 3.30 in the afternoon, the rain was so heavy that I was
compelled to give up work.

What do you think becomes of all the stamps off your
letters and newspapers ? They go to a Mission in China,
in which Vicente is interested. As you know, the people
there leave their children very often to die in the streets.
The priests buy the children from their parents, for one
hundred old stamps of any kind, which the people value as
curiosities. So in time you may furnish enough to buy a
child.

The other day I had one potato brought me as a
present, the first since I left Rio in July ; so I prized it very
much, cut it up and fried it myself.

Vicente killed a lizard, called “papavento” (i.e. wind-
eater), which is supposed to be dangerous. I bottled it in
spirits. We also found some more honey-nests. The bees,
which are very small and yellow, are called “jatahy” (an

9o

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Indian name) ; they fill up the entrance to their nest
with resin (which is very pure, and is used for violins) at
the beginning of the winter, when they shut themselves up
and eat the honey. The resin is to prevent woodpeckers
and other birds getting into the nest.

I am now cutting my way through mata virgem, or
virgin forest, a mere trifle compared with those on the
coast and nearer the equator, but still beautiful. Our chief,
however, is never tired of speaking of the really grand and
immense forests of Spanish Honduras, which, he says, is
the most splendid place in the world. But I will briefly
describe my woods. Last night (September 26) we arrived
at the banks of the Rio Camapuao, and we shall go along
this valley until we nearly reach Brumado. The stream
which we have been following from the divide, during its
passage through an increasingly narrowing gorge with
steep forest-covered sides, at length reaches a fine cascade,
the water falling some sixty feet over the bare rocks into
a clear, deep pool at their base. The stream then enters
the valley of the Camapuao, and shortly empties itself into
that river ; the valley at that part is broad, flat, and marshy,
with a few scattered patches of capoeira and shrubs.
I crossed the Camapuao at a point where its broad valley
narrows into a gorge. The river there is some fifty feet
wide, and shallow, with an even and gentle fall. On one
side is a steep bank some thirty feet high, covered with
forest, beyond which is campo, or grass down ; and on the
other side, a broad belt of bamboo jungle, covered with water
in the flood season. Beyond this jungle rises a hill some
five or six hundred feet high, hidden in virgin forest, from
which are heard the distant chatter of monkeys, the melan-
choly caw-caw of toucans, and the singing of a thousand
birds. The river-bank is fringed with trees, some of which

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

91

are a mass of white, yellow, violet, or dark-blue flowers,
beautiful leguminosae ( Inga and Mimosa ), with pink cistus-
like blossoms — trees with fresh young leaves and flower-buds
just bursting in the early spring, sweet daphne and wild
orange, good timber for ornamental purposes (as I found
by cutting it down), the “ sucupira ” rather resembling rose-
wood, “ camara,” a pinkish white wood, and “ salgueira,” a
deep red colour.* There are also tall slim trees, with
leaves some eighteen inches long by six wide, of a deep
chocolate colour on the under side, and two extra ribs along
the edge of the leaf (Melastomacece) ; bignonias in flower,
orchids, and other parasites ; tree-ferns besides many other
ferns, and creepers innumerable. One creeper was very
pretty, having pale green leaves and countless clusters of
exquisite light pink flowers, in size and shape similar to
an azalea (J acaranda tomentosa ). Some of the llianas are
fine stemmed, like a thread of green cotton ; others like
hanging masses of twisted rope, tough, yet pliant. You
have the ceaseless hum of a hundred bloodthirsty diptera
and of cicadas, with notes from the shrillest pitch to the
deepest bass. A few sober-coloured brown, grey, or white
butterflies {Euptychia, Taygetis, Leucidia, Eurema , etc.) and
small moths skip and flit between the trees and under-
growth, while occasionally a brilliant Morpho floats lazily

* I copy from a (MS.) “Catalogue of the Woods of Brazil, arranged
alphabetically after their vernacular names,” etc., John Miers, F.R.S., which
is in the Botanical Library at the British Museum, South Kensington.

“ Sucupira.

Sicuper assu (grand S.) 22 m. hauteur, 8 centim. diam.
violet grisatre faible a travailler.

Sicupera mirim (petit S.) 22 m. hauteur, 10 centim. diam.
plus dur que le precedent.”

(From list of woods sent to France by the Comte Gesta.)

Camara , Acrodiclidium Gardneri.

Salgueiro, from Rio Sao Francisco, a strong hard wood, useful in the con-
struction of large boats (Burton, vol. ii. p. 381).

92

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

along, and a strong-winged Papilio or gay Callidryas rushes
past with rapid flight. Then under one’s feet is a carpet
of dry leaves, among which creep countless ants — red, yellow
and black ; all sizes, from the smallest, almost invisible, to
savage-looking hairy, golden, or red and black creatures,
half an inch long. Such is a faint picture of my surround-
ings to-day.

A few days ago Vicente shot a large lizard or “ lagarto ; ”
it was three feet eight inches long, and was killed while
lying asleep basking in the sun beside a small pond near
our camp. We skinned and cooked it according to a recipe
contained in a book I bought when at Rio de Janeiro,
called “ Cozinheiro Nacional,” or National Cookery, and
which gives directions how to prepare and cook the onga,
paca, monkey, capivara, snakes, frogs, armadillos, toucans,
and countless other birds, snails, ants, and, in fact, every-
thing imaginable. The result of the experiment with the
lizard was most satisfactory, the flesh being a delicate
white, and most delicious, rather similar to pork in flavour,
with a dash of the richness of a mackerel without the fishy
taste. We have also been eating tatus (armadillos), and
a paca which we caught lately. When I was returning the
other evening, wading down the river, a paca came off from
one bank and dived into the water to swim across. One of
my men hit it with his fauce (billhook), slicing half its head
off. We prepared him first by scalding and scraping the
hair off, when he looked just like a sucking pig; the next
day we had him roasted on a spit. The crackling and the.
fine white flesh were excellent.

I am always getting little offerings from the natives.
To-day I received a bottle of laranginha, a bottle of milk,
some tobacco, and some oranges ; all from different
people.

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

93

I can now no longer sleep on the ground, owing to the
rain and the insects, so sent into Brumado to try and get
a hammock. Senhor Joao Baptista sent me a very nice
one, as a present. It is made of the fibre of a kind of palm
called burity, and is very strong.

October 3. — To-day I worked through a swamp — grand
for a naturalist, obnoxious to an engineer — with dense
masses of ferns now unfurling their new fronds of all colours,
from light red to brownish or green, a luxuriance of tree-
ferns with leaves six to eight feet long, and shrubs bearing
the most fragrant white flowers, while Morphos (M. Achil-
Icena) and Heliconius were abundant.

Having read in my cookery book a recipe for fried
“tanajuras,” a kind of ant, I was most anxious to come
across this insect and try the dish. On September 30,
there was a great swarm of them flying about our camp.
They are very formidable-looking creatures, not unlike a
hornet, only entirely brown, three inches across the wing,
and over an inch long. Having taken sufficient for my
collection, I then set to work to capture them, for food, in
my butterfly net. In a few minutes I had over a hundred,
and then followed the recipe in the book, which says, “ Take
a number of tanajuras and scald them in boiling water,
then pull off the abdomens, which are to be fried in fat,
sprinkling them with salt and pepper. When they are
well cooked, serve them as a surprise dish. In taste they
resemble prawns.” The females only are used, as they are
full of eggs. I confess I tried my first tanajura with much
delicacy, but, finding it excellent, ate half a dozen, and
finally finished the whole lot.

I must next tell you something more interesting about
them, as, being Sunday, I had leisure to watch. I noticed
nothing remarkable about the males, but observed the

94

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

females carefully. They fly about rapidly, and finally
settle on the ground ; then, in less time than it takes me to
write it, they lift up the centre leg and break off their wings,
first on one side, then on the other ; after this they crawl
about, seeking a spot to burrow in — they sometimes wander
backwards and forwards for a quarter of an hour before
deciding. When settled, they cut away the grass all
round, carefully removing it, and then begin to dig out the
earth with their jaws. When an ant had thus settled,
supporting itself sometimes on two hind legs, sometimes
on four, and excavating with its mandibles, the fore legs
kneaded the earth into pellets, or else scraped out the
powdery dust. When it had formed a pellet, it always
backed out of its burrow with the lump of earth in its jaws,
and then, turning round, deposited it about two inches from
the burrow on the down side of the hill, so that the rain
could not wash it back again. The insects dug some four
or five inches deep in every case. This is the extent of
my observations, but I am told that if you dig in January,
you will find her in the burrow surrounded by her young
progeny.

The same evening I had another display of interest,
this time inanimate nature. We had a superb sunset ; the
sun sank just before six, and then, from a wondrous golden
horizon, rays of bright crimson darted forth into the pale
blue sky overhead, lighting up the sides of our forest-clad
dough, which runs E.N.E. into the broad fertile valley
of the Rio Camapuao, with a warm glow, the profile of the
high ground on the other side of the valley fading into
the outlines of the successive ranges of gently undulating
hills of a deep purple, the furthest group standing in bold
relief against the golden sky. Turning round, we saw the
forest, the red soil, the tufted grass, and bushes all lit up

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

95

with the wondrous crimson glow, and the illuminated
branches of some dead trees gave a wonderful effect of
distance to the intense deep blue heaven beyond.

By 6.20 it was quite dark, and all the light faded away.
Then came the lovely after-glow, everything again standing
out in relief, with a beautiful rosy tint reflected from the
west, and in a few minutes that also faded, the shades of
night fell, the Southern Cross, Milky Way, Austral Crown,
Scorpion, Magellanic Clouds, -and all the other brilliant —
and, alas ! to me unknown — constellations of the southern
hemisphere shone out brightly in the moonless sky, the
fitful light of countless fireflies danced over the bushes
in the valley, and the silence was broken only by the
cheerful chirruping of the grasshoppers and field-crickets,
which lasts all night long. Soon a pale glimmer appeared
in the south-east, and before long the brilliant queen of
the night rose from behind the forest, quenching the paler
fires of the stars, and flooding the valley with her astound-
ing brightness, while a soft beam of silvery light stole into
our tent.

Insects are becoming more plentiful already, and trees
which looked dead sticks are breaking out into wondrous
large reddish-green leaves. Even here, where in winter
there appears so much foliage, nature seems to be putting
on her spring attire after the few days’ rain we have
had, and the grass, hitherto dried up and withered, is
sprouting.*

The thunderstorms here and elsewhere have cooled the
air, and the temperature is at least 30° cooler in the sun-
shine, while the cloudy yet lovely weather makes the

* Many of the trees on the campos are deciduous ; it is only in the valley,
near the streams and rivers, at this altitude, that the leaves do not fall in
winter.

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

96

work pleasanter than was possible with the thermometer
at 138° F.

Vicente left here to-day to return to Pitanguy. I shall
miss him very much. For six weeks he was my only com-
panion besides the men, and he has been so kind and
helpful in a thousand ways. Just as he was mounting his
horse, he was stung in the left ear by a large wasp, which
went so far in that we could not even feel it for some
time. It was finally killed by pouring in a little cachaga,
and then we took it out. The pain must have been very
great.

Early on the morning of the 8th, I was awakened by
our first great thunderstorm. In a few minutes the ditch
round the tent was full, and streams poured over the floor.
I had to get up and remove everything I could oilt of
the wet.

Our number was increased on Michaelmas Day by the
arrival of Mr. Roberts, and since then we have somewhat
changed our mode of life. Instead of having breakfast
before going out, our general routine is as follows : up at
sunrise, and have three or four raw eggs beaten up with
a little cachaga and water, some bread and coffee ; then go
out on the work till about midday, when our breakfast
is brought out to us, consisting of stewed or roast fowl,
with rice, feijoes, and bread ; then work again after about
an hour’s rest, returning to camp in time to change clothes,
wash, and hunt for carrapatos before dinner, which we have
just after sunset.

My routine on retiring for the night is to lay a grass
mat in the hammock, then a sheet of waterproof, and a
blanket which has been aired or dried during the day ;
then, after a final hunt for carrapatos, and sponging with
diluted carbolic acid, sprinkle some of it on all the blankets

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

97

necessary, examine revolver and gun, have a “ night-cap,”
and then “douse the glim.”

We have lately been breakfasting in the most pic-
turesque spots beside the stream — some six or eight feet
wide — which flows between moss-covered banks, dotted
over with ferns (especially maidenhair), while every few
yards rise huge tree-ferns ten to fifteen feet high, besides
numerous other small trees or shrubs. Everything com-
bines to make a pleasant tout ensemble — the delightful
shade when the sun is 130° in the open, the delicious mur-
muring of the brook, and the verdure ; not to speak of
breakfast, the first meal in the day, when one is really
hungry after hard work. This luxuriant tropical vegeta-
tion is very delightful, and, as yet, is unaccompanied by
the enervating damp and heat of the lower regions along
the coast.

One evening, as we were passing the Fazenda de Cor-
tume, one of the sons asked us to alight and have coffee.
The old lady, Dona Gertrude, wife of the major, received
us ; she was surrounded by a host of sons and daughters,
their wives and husbands, her grandchildren, and two great-
grandchildren, the latter running about in a state of nature.
The room we were in — the entrance hall and dining-room
— has three doors ; one of them was crowded by the female
slaves and their children, many of whom were unclad. It
is quite a patriarchal establishment, and I should very
much like to know how many people live there — probably
at least fifty. We both liked the old lady very much ;
she is portly, and has a great presence, but is very sad,
owing to the illness of her husband, who has been in a bad
state of health for over three years.

We have had five days (October 12 to 16) of cold
drizzling rain, but no deluge ; it has been so cold we have

H

98

4 YEAR IN BRAZIL.

put on great-coats and huddled on all the clothes by day,
and coverings by night, that we possess.

To-day (October 18) we had breakfast near the waterfall,
in a spot which I can best liken to the fairy glen at Bettws-
y-coed, with the addition of swinging masses of creepers,
maidenhair, tree-ferns, and bamboos. One must see
bamboos to understand their extreme gracefulness.

I am greatly tantalized at having no time to botanize.
There are now hundreds of spring flowers coming out on
the hillsides, scarlet, sky blue, yellow, white, purple, bushes
with deliciously scented white flowers, and dozens of won-
derful leaves. The few specimens I have tried to dry have
been mostly spoiled by the damp. I should very much
like to come out here with a party of naturalists, each to
take up different branches and devote all their time to
collecting. It would be most interesting.

Alas ! my minimum readings of the thermometer can
no longer be given, as my dog broke it last night.

I enclose you a copy of a Pitanguy newspaper. It is
called O Pitanguy , Orgam critico , is six inches by four and
a half, and consists of four pages.

The day after we were at the Fazenda do Cortume,
Capitao Sydney, of the next fazenda, Boa Vista, came to
the camp. He is son-in-law to the major, one of whose
sons accompanied him ; also his own son, a very intelligent-
looking boy of ten. Later I was favoured by a visit from
two niggers belonging to the major ; they laughed a great
deal, did not speak much, but smoked cigarettes of my
Latakia wrapped up in newspaper, which they found rather
strong.

October 22. — After spending two days at Brumado, we
are once more in the solitude of our mountain-camp. The
three hundred feet difference in level between this place

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

99

and Brumado makes a great change of temperature ; there
it was very hot, with very little air, so that the return to
this fresh, light atmosphere was very pleasant.

October 23. — Last night we had another deluge. We
were awakened by the noise of the downpour on the roof
of the tent. Lighting a candle, I examined whether the
water was coming in ; there was just a trickling on the
up-hill side. I turned in again, but not to sleep ; the drum-
like roar of the rain on the tent was too great, added to
the rushing of the rivers flowing down the deep gutter
which surrounds the tent. Soon I felt a curious motion
under my hammock, a sort of upheaval ; it was the dog
creeping about, as he always sleeps near my feet. I con-
cluded the rain was coming in, and, putting down my hand,
felt a stream. On striking a light, we saw a curious sight.
Between Roberts’s camp-bed and my hammock rushed a
river some two inches deep, and in it were floating empty
cups and pots and slippers, etc., bobbing up and down at
the lower side of the tent ; my gun-case and saddle-bags
had diverted a portion of the stream under my hammock,
while the rush of the rivers outside had prevented my
hearing the stream inside. We rescued our slippers and
grabbed at other floating articles, and I then, from the
vantage point of my hammock, viewed with some amuse-
ment the novel sight of a stream, more than a yard wide,
between our two beds. The rain came down in such
torrents that the ditch, though it was pretty deep, was
not large enough to carry it off ; so we had it enlarged
next morning, and now it is quite a jump to cross it.

The rainy season having begun, the traffic has likewise
commenced. While the dry season lasts, the atrocious
tracks, called roads, are at least bearable ; but there is no
pasture for the cattle that draw the carts or for the pack-

IOO

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

mules ; therefore, with the sprouting of the new grass,
business is resumed. October 16 was the first day I
noticed the increased activity. On reaching the high-road
on the way to work, we passed two carts, each drawn by
twenty oxen ; and then about a hundred mules, all going
down, under the escort of some niggers, to Carandahy, to
be laden with salt and other merchandise. Now, every
day from our work on the hills, whence we overlook a mile
or so of the road, we see a continuous line of three, four,
or more ox-carts wending their way at a snail’s pace to the
accompaniment of that heart-rending humming screech,
increased by the yells of the cruel drivers, whom I have
before mentioned. There are also teams of a dozen or
more pack-mules, the leading mule having generally a
brave headgear of silver or bright metal, hung with many
bells, gaily coloured tassels, and generally a little dressed-
up doll between its ears, supposed to represent the Blessed
Virgin Mary. The bells jingle pleasantly, and these
various sounds are increased by the cheerful songs of the
nigger drivers, carreiros and tropeiros, interspersed with
invectives and directions to the animals to “gee up,” keep
to the road, take the lower or higher track, go to the left
or right, etc. The niggers’ songs are a sort of wild, weird,
tuneless howl, or series of yells ; but as they say the oxen
would not go without the music of the wheels, I suppose
they think the mules would make no progress without their
soul-stirring melodies.

October 27. — Major Joao Ferreira do Cortume, whose
illness of over three years I have before referred to, died
to-day, and I have been invited to attend the funeral to-
morrow, of which I will write you an account in my next.

October 28. — The major owned the country round for
a great distance, including the ground I am encamped on.

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

IOI

His family dislike the idea of our railway going through
their property, and, in fact, as I told you, tore up a foot-
bridge and some of our pegs ; but they are now quite
friendly to us, personally, as I have also mentioned. I
therefore sent down a man with my card to the widow,
“ with much sympathy and condolence.” The result was
a letter from one of the sons-in-law, which I translate : —

“ III"". Sr- Dr- Hastings Charles Dent.

“My Friend and Sir (= My dear Sir),

“My father died at two o’clock this morning. If
you would do us the charitable favour of assisting at the
funeral to-morrow, at midday, at the Olhos d’Agua, we
should be grateful.

“Your obliged friend,

“Antonio Torquato de Fonseca.”

The letter was written with violet ink and sealed with
a violet wafer. The writer saw my messenger, and said he
hoped I would be able to go to the house about 6 a.m.
As a compliment I felt bound to do this, for it is good to
humour the people, especially when they are unfavourable
to the work.

This morning accordingly, attended by a camarade,
I went to the fazenda, arriving at 6.30, and was received
by some of the sons and sons-in-law. After exchanging
a few words, I was taken into an inner room to have coffee
and cakes. A few minutes latqr the widow came in,
attended by two daughters, and I had to condole with
them. They really all appeared very sorrowful, and the
old lady looked miserable, though hardly more so than
the last time I saw her, when she knew her husband was
dying. We had a little talk, and she told me that one of

102

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

her sons — another Antonio — was ill in bed. I had to go
and see him for a short time, and then returned and sat
with the good old lady, a sister-in-law, daughters and
granddaughters, in silence, while she groaned. At length
I made an excuse of looking after the horses, and went out.
At eight we had a plentiful Brazilian breakfast ; the table
was spread three times, and about twenty sat down each
time, all men. At nine there was a little excitement, and
every one said, “ It’s coming.” I wondered what. It
turned out to be the coffin, slung on a long pole, carried by
two men. The lid was hinged so as to open like a trip-
tych ; the outside was covered with black cloth, trimmed
with gilt braid, and the inside white, with the same braid
trimming. It was then taken to the inner rooms, and there
was more waiting. English funerals are bad enough, as
far as delays go, so I suppose it was only to be expected
the Brazilians would be still more dilatory.

About ten, the padre from Sao Amaro, who was the
major’s confessor, arrived. He shook hands with the sons,
with me, and with others, and then, instead of going in to
comfort the mourners, began to cut up tobacco and make
a cigarette. The bier was next prepared, consisting of
two long poles, with five cross pieces lashed together with
ropes.

At last, about 10.45, we started. The two daughters
and some grandchildren accompanied the coffin to the
hall, quite quiet, but weeping much. The coffin was
placed on and lashed to the bier, and covered with a
yellow and red damask pall, over which was thrown a red
and white tablecloth ; then four niggers, taking the ends
of the poles on their shoulders, trudged off. There were
about five and twenty slaves and servants belonging to the
estate who went on foot, and took it in turns to bear the

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

103

bier, and also some thirty horsemen. All uncovered their
heads on leaving the house, and a weird kind of chant was
sung by the men for some two or three hundred yards.

We rode about eight miles to the chapel at Olhos
d’Agua, the procession increasing in numbers as we went
along, until at length we were some forty footmen and
seventy horse, while other friends from Brumado met us
near the cemetery. Two incidents occurred on the march :
one, the slaughter of a snake ( jararacassu ) ; the other, a
mule rolling over twice with his rider, who did not appear
any the worse.

When we reached the Rio Camapuao, we found it
tremendously swollen from the very heavy rains of last
night. The ruined bridge had been repaired on purpose, by
having a few new sticks and sods laid down ; but, of course,
we led the horses over, as it was not very safe. Finally
we reached the cemetery at 1.30. I had been very kindly
received all along the route, and was greeted with dozens
of handshakings and compliments when I arrived. I stayed
outside the churchyard, as did all except the family, who
went into a house by the church. The coffin was put into
an alcove, the two ribbons which alone held the cover were
untied, the lid opened, and the corpse exposed to view.
The departed major was dressed in a long black garment
down to the ankles, white stockings, black shoes, and a
white cloak ; his head lay on a pillow covered with native
lace work. At the head of the coffin were placed a crucifix
and two lighted candles. During this lying in state, the
family (men only went) received their friends in the house.
Shortly a band of fifteen men, who had been for some time
tuning up, came and discoursed melancholy music, much
out of tune, but in tolerable time.

At length, the three priests who were to take part in

104

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

the ceremony went into the church to robe. They were
the priests of Sao Amaro (Padre Antonio), Olhos d’Agua
(Padre Francisco), and Lagoa Dourada (the latter place is
a league and a half off). Their vestments were cassock
and surplice ; he of Lagoa Dourada, who read the service,
had also a black stole. The service began in the chapelle
ardente, the family meanwhile unpacking and distributing
a large box of candles, some three feet long. The said
box I had seen arrive with the coffin, and leave the fazenda
on a nigger’s head half an hour before we did. I had
endless trouble to keep my candle alight, as the wind blew
it out every moment. The preliminary part of the service
being over, the sons carried the coffin, which was then
closed, into the church, where it was placed in the centre
of the nave, and again opened, the feet being towards the
altar. I was in the midst of the family by the head of the
corpse, and after a time the odour became sickening, while
flies settled on the already discoloured face. The service
seemed to me interminable, with seven Paternosters at long
intervals, at each of which the priest sprinkled the body
with holy water. In the middle of the service, the priests
seemed affected by the smell, when one of them, pulling
out his snuff-box, took a big pinch, and handed it to the
two others, who did the same ! The coffin was then again
closed, only to be reopened when placed beside the grave,
which was in front of the altar, the excavated red earth
being piled up on the flags on each side. After a few
more prayers, the poor sons had to shut the lid for the last
time (without tying the ribbons) and lower it into its final
resting-place, when the top once more gaped open, and
every one in passing out threw earth literally on the dead
man’s face ! The sons immediately regaled themselves
with a cigarette — hardly to be wondered at ; and I

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

105

mounted my horse and rode off. The whole affair seemed
to me rather repulsive, and the repetitions in the service at
least needless, while the heartless conduct of the priests,
bowing and smiling to each other over their pinch of snuff,
was scandalous.

The major was a great man in these parts, as you may
imagine from the number of people who attended his
funeral. The fazenda was full of visitors, who had come
off at such a short notice — twelve hours at most ; for they
slept there on Saturday night, and kept coming out of
their bedrooms after I arrived. Four of these bedrooms
open into the hall where I was received, and where we
breakfasted. There were some fine-looking old gentlemen,
who rather stood aloof from me at first, as a stranger ; but
when the sons explained I was the “doctor” and chief
engineer for the district, they gradually spoke to me. One
asked whether one could go by land from here to England.
Another said he believed it was six months’ journey to
England. When, after answering them, I said that on the
opening of the railway they would be able to reach Rio
de Janeiro in a day, they thought that I was romancing.
Such is the native mind ; but, perhaps, not inferior to that
of many English people who have never been to London.

November 3. — To-day, by special request, I attended the
Requiem Mass of the seventh day at the private chapel in
the Fazenda do Cortume. The service was timed for ten.
I arrived a few minutes before, and was, as usual, received
with great kindness. The priest of Sao Amaro arrived
about 10.30, and Padre Francisco a quarter of an hour
later. Service began at eleven. All the men of the family
were attired in more or less decent black, with new un-
starched black cotton shirts and stand-up collars, so with
their swarthy complexions and straight black hair they

io6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

looked very funereal. There was also a crowd of neigh-
bours and friends and slaves of the male sex, mostly in
their usual attire, while just before the service began the
female portion of the congregation came in from an inner
room.

The chapel is a small niche off the hall, only large
enough to hold half a dozen people, so the doors were
thrown open and the congregation filled the hall. The
widow, daughters, and daughters-in-law did not appear ;
but there were a good many granddaughters, some of them
really pretty little girls, all shoeless, but in neat black cotton
gowns. A great many other young girls and women were
present, of all shades of complexion, dressed in the brightest
and gayest colours, and with flowers in their shining, well-
oiled, neatly braided black hair. Little niggers with only
a shirt on, and numerous dogs, rambled about among the
kneeling crowd during the whole service, which was very
quietly performed, the major’s confessor being celebrant,
and Padre Francisco deacon. The chalice pall was violet,
but the chasuble was rather incongruous — I suppose it was
the only one at the fazenda — being of a stiff white silk,
braided with crimson flowers.

It was a picturesque and touching sight. The small
dim chapel, with its painfully crude and barbaric carvings,
pictures, and gilt and tinsel ornaments, lighted up by six
tall tallow candles on the altar ; the priest in his white and
red chasuble ; the dark, dirty, and dilapidated hall, its mud
floor covered with worshippers ; the women surrounding the
chapel, a few sable garments being lighted up by the other
patches of bright colour ; the mass of men filling the rest
of the room, mostly rough, unkempt, unwashed, in many
styles of dress, some in huge riding-boots, others with spurs
on their bare feet, variety of colour and origin, some rich,

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

107

some poor, some bond, some free ; but all kneeling de-
voutly— all, at least outwardly, reverent, attentive, and
intent upon that service, which, they trusted, was to be a
source of refreshment and assistance to their departed
friend or master.

November 4. — We went in for the day to Brumado to
see one of the partners of the firm,* who arrived with Roberts
on September 29. He also brought up with him my old
friend Bithell, who, you remember, went with me on my
ride up country. They have just returned from riding all
over the projected route and visiting the different members
of the staff When they came to my camp and dropped
Roberts here, I was at work some three miles off ; and
though I returned as quickly as I could, after the mes-
senger came to call me, I was unable to get back in time
to see them, as they wished to reach Brumado before
nightfall.

November 7. — I must not indulge too much in descrip-
tions of camp-life, or you will be bored ; but having
some time since referred to our cooking, I must now say
that, as a rule, our sole food is chickens, which are cooked
in two ways only — “ refogado,” or stew, and “ asado,” or
roast. Having told you the way of preparing the refo-
gado, I will now mention the asado, which I happened
to see one day, when, it being very wet, I was plotting
some work in the tent. Our swarthy cook ran a long stick
through the trussed chicken to act as a spit, and then,
squatting on his heels, turned it round and round in the
ruddy flame. When the bird was getting dry, he twirled
round as on a pivot, dipped his hands into a calabash of
pork fat, and, taking out some of the pomade-like stuff,
plastered it with his fingers over the browning chicken !

* Mr. Leathom Earle Ross.

io8

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

There are now occasional flights of myriads of winged
white ants {Termites), and large scarabseus-like beetles
{Copns). Our tent affords a fine dry shelter for all kinds to
burrow. I wish you could see us at dinner — to-night, for
instance — by the light of two candles, one stuck in a beer-
bottle, the other in a match-box ; Roberts seated in his fold-
ing-chair, I on my hammock ; on our laps, on napkins, my
enamelled plates with the usual food ; at our feet, various
black pots and pans taken off the fire and containing fowl,
onions, beans, rice, cabbage, etc. ; near the entrance our
swarthy cook, sitting on his heels and awaiting our orders ;
beside him, with hungry eyes, our two dogs, one of whom
has the most intellectual and thoughtful face I ever saw.
(Both poor brutes are suffering from the attacks of insects —
bernos — which raise lumps all over their bodies.) The scene
is completed by a cold drizzle outside, while whirring round
our heads continually are huge beetles, with a hum like a
threshing machine, and every moment they dash into our
faces, or the candles, or against the roof, and then fall into
one of the saucepans !

It still keeps cold, with much rain ; no deluge, but chill-
ing drizzle. Thermometer averages about 6o° after sunset,
and from 70° to 120° in the daytime.

November 13. — It is now beginning to get very warm,
and the sun at midday appears almost at the zenith, and
casts no shadows ; but we are only two degrees or so north
of Rio, which is almost on the Tropic of Capricorn, where
the sun will not arrive till the 21st of December, so we
may now expect three months of really hot weather. The
new vegetation is coming up fast, and I hardly recognize
some of my old picadas, after not having passed through
them for six weeks or so. Birds’-nests and young birds
are much more abundant lately, and tadpoles are getting

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

109

quite large. Carrapatos are diminishing, but other insects
take their place. The cabegudo ant, also called “ carre -
gadeiro ” (umbrella ant), is very troublesome. I always
wear a nightcap, and sometimes wrap my whole head up
in a handkerchief as well, to keep off insects. These ants
are fond of biting off one’s hair quite short, and sometimes
— of course by mistake — take a nip out of your skin.
They cannot reach me now in my hammock ; but as
the poor things want to make their nests comfortable,
they have taken a great partiality to my nice new
flannel shirts. The sleeve of one of these was left one
night just touching the ground, and next morning it was
half gone. By fragments dropped along a beaten track,
I discovered the nest lately built under the awning of
the tent.

Another night I kicked off a second shirt on to the
ground in my sleep, and when I woke it was honeycombed
in a dozen places. Once again the tail end, touching the
ground, was cut away in one night, so that it is now six
inches shorter than the front. My washing flannel has also
shared the same fate. I must confess, however, that though
they are fond of cutting up flannel shirts as if they were
green leaves, which is about all they ever had the oppor-
tunity of exercising their jaws on before I arrived, and
though I have often had them on me, they do not sting or
hurt, but if frightened they may nip you and draw blood
with their strong jaws.

Within the last two days another creature has put in
a tolerably plentiful appearance — the earwig. They are
everywhere ; they fall out of your towels when you wash,
and, with ants, beetles, and carrapatos, share the shelter of
your garments when you hang them up. Fleas also swarm
just now. Where they suddenly sprang from I don’t know ;

I IO

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

but it is so pleasant to awake and feel them running races
all over one’s body, and to be too sleepy to rouse one’s self
for a hunt.

Paroquets absolutely abound about here, and toucans
are numerous, as also orioles. I wish I could bring some
of them home.*

To-night the weather is perfect ; one can see to read by
the clear light of the full moon, the sky is cloudless, and
the outlines of the mountains — tier above tier — are softened
by her mild rays, while the stillness is only broken by the
ceaseless chirrup of the crickets and the harsh croak of the
bull-frogs. These balmy nights make up for the fatigues
of the day, but the temptation is very strong just to sit or
lie idle and enjoy them.

It may interest you to hear the high-sounding names of
my workmen. The three sons of my first guide, Fortunato
da Costa Campo, are Jocelino, Antonio, and Lino Camille
Lellis. There are besides, Francisco Josd Ramaes, and
his son Francisco da Cunha Ramaes, Aleixo Tavares de
Carvalho (the cook), Jose Antonio Ferreira, Candido Jose
Querino, and Antonio Jose Brumo de Carvalho. As it is
always the rule to call every one by their Christian names
here, I generally take the first, except when two bear the
same praenomen.

* On leaving Rio de Janeiro (July, 1884), I bought two green paroquets,
two crimson tanagers, Tanagra brasilia, and two green tanagers, Calliste,
or Tanagra tricolor (Tanagrinee, Fringillidse). One paroquet died before
reaching Pernambuco, where I bought two more ; but they all died before we
touched at St. Vincent. One of the red birds pecked his brother to death,
and the other died before he had been three weeks in England. The green
tanagers — which I was told were the most delicate of all the birds I had —
survived, and though one died after about a month’s stay in England, the
other survived till November 1, 1884, when he expired after a long and painful
illness ; his feet were covered with white blisters, and he appeared to suffer
much from these.

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

1 1 1

Camp near Casa Grande.

November 1 8, 1883. — We have again come into this
neighbourhood for a few days. As it is important to com-
plete the outdoor work of this section, if possible, before
Christmas, the staff on the next division are to finish the
survey from where I leave off to the existing railway.
They arrived at our last camp on the evening of the 14th
inst., and slept there, having to make the best of our scanty
accommodation. Next morning, early, I started off with
them to point out my proposed route, and after being all
day in the saddle, I left them when the ox-cart bearing
their impedimenta appeared, and they were selecting a
camping-ground. I had a long, solitary ride back, and
prepared for moving here the following day. It was in-
tensely hot on both these days of travelling ; in fact, since
the 10th there has been no rain, but sultriness and thundery
clouds, with intervals of scorching sun. We managed
to secure a room in Aleixo’s hut, and having removed
the stores of feijoes and milho and toucinho, etc.,
which it contained, use it for eating and living in, while
Roberts sleeps there. I thus have my tent to myself once
more, as I wished to be with the men. I was summoned
that night by the chief of the other party, as there was some
hitch about the route ; so went over there on the morrow,
and after another agreeable day in the saddle, we settled
everything very satisfactorily, and I returned here by
sunset.

The members of this other division, in addition to being
fearfully tormented by the carrapatos, have suffered from
“ bernos,” to which carrapatos are a trifle. I refer to these
elsewhere.

I would give anything to be able to sketch. I could

112

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

send dozens of glimpses of our life, native life, the scenery
along our route, etc., which would be most interesting, and
I dare say the Graphic would publish them. They might,
perhaps, help to bring the railway before the subscribing
public in England, and might be useful. But, alas ! I
cannot.

November 22. — I find the weather rather trying.

The house that we live in would amuse you to look into
occasionally. It has five or six rooms, but only one window
(at the back) ; the result is utter darkness when the doors
are shut. Mine host (Aleixo) has four children by his present
wife (the last, Maria, born when I was here last), and two
by his first wife. They are always in and out, the children
rushing in half a dozen times a day, taking off their hats
and stretching out their hands for a blessing (saying “ Sua
bengao,” or “Seuchrisma”). This is a form of respect repeated
by Aleixo whenever the “sogro,” his father-in-law, comes.
The latter is a little old man, with a remarkably fine head
and sharp eyes. He has five daughters and three sons.
People mostly go in for large families hereabouts.

Aleixo is tolerably well-to-do, as things go here — and,
in fact, I have not come across any abject poverty — but you
may remember, as our cook, he is not remarkable for clean-
liness ; however, I know no one in these parts who is. I
am in total ignorance of the Brazilian proverbs, but cer-
tainly “ Cleanliness is next to godliness ” cannot be one of
them.

The only way of reputing wealth among the natives is
after the Abrahamic standard — slaves, cattle, oxen, horses,
mules, and pigs, with pasture to feed them on. Aleixo
has several horses, cows, and oxen, plenty of pigs and dogs
No one ever mentions money in talking over a man’s
possessions.

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

i>3

Aleixo, his wife, and children wait upon us at our meals,
and squat on the floor watching every morsel we put into
our mouths, while our door is surrounded by a motley crowd
of chickens and pigs, dogs and cats. On the grass-covered
hill beyond are the cattle and horses feeding, and a slave
or two stands outside the door, while nigger youngsters
play around. Occasionally my dog rushes after some
presuming pig, who comes in grunting to pick up morsels,
which doggie thinks are his perquisites.

I am thankful that I sleep away in the tent, as the
children are not very quiet during the night season, and
dogs and pigs constantly give notice of their proximity by
barking and howling, grunting and squeaking.

On Sunday we had a constant throng of visitors in our
room, and one lady performed the generous operation of
cutting Roberts’s hair, for which she did not refuse a milreis !
The last time my hair was cut was at Brumado, by a butcher,
and very well he cut it too, “ ao escovinho ” (lit. a little
brush), i.e. & la Frangaise, so short you could not pick up
a hair with your nails.

There was a crowd at our midday breakfast, the squat-
ting natives surrounding our table (a drawing-board) ad-
miring and fingering my damask breakfast-cloth. It was
the same at dinner, and presented a queer “ Study of an
Interior : ” the natives squatting on the mud floor, in a room
with walls composed of bamboo framing filled with mud ;
the walls reaching to the level of the springing of the roof
(architecturally yclept wall-plate) ; above, the roof — of tiles
placed on the rafters (long sticks), the cross rafters or
purlins tied on by llianas, the tiles blackened with the
smoke from the chimneyless kitchen ; in the next room,
the voices of a dozen female voluble tongues talking about
the English “ doctors,” and plainly heard over the partition ;

i

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

114

outside, the usual throng — and noises inseparable there-
from— of children, dogs, and pigs. Our table-cloth was
scattered over with the ochre-coloured beetles, which give
out phosphorescent light from a spot on each side of the
thorax,* while countless shining emerald spots on the
blackened tiles above, piercing the darkness of the dimly-
lighted room, told of unnumbered quantities of those same
beetles which had there found a temporary resting-place.

November 24. — The sogro — father of Aleixo’s wife —
arrived at dark with his wife and four daughters to serenade
us with a guitar. Aleixo went out to meet them, and,
kissing the old people’s hands, asked their blessing. The
old fellow is a little shrimp of a man, with a very dirty
exterior, and his chin is always like a stubble field ; the
upper lip also is chronically brown with extraneous par-
ticles of snuff, which he is continually shovelling up his
nostrils. But he is a strong Conservative, which covers a
multitude of sins. He is now seventy-six years old.

I should like you to have seen our “party.” We
assembled in the parlour — the next room to ours — likewise
with mud floors and walls, and opening into our host’s
bedroom, which has no window and no external door.
The only furniture in the parlour is a wooden-framed bed-
stead and a bench. The former has an ox-hide nailed on
it, on which the mattress is placed, which is the usual
thing — a cotton case filled with milho spathes. For the
entertainment, the ox-hide stood revealed, and looked like
a big drum-skin, with an occasional patch of hair still
adhering. On this bedstead, with her back against the
wall, sat the old woman, resting her chin on her knees.
In front of her were the three damsels, her daughters,
who were to perform. Roberts and I were on the bench,

* Pyrophorus noclilucus, Elateridce (skipjacks).

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

i*5

trying to lean against the wall without coming in contact
with the stirrups and girths of some saddles suspended
above. We furnished two candles in beer-bottles to illumi-
nate the assembly, placing the lights on the floor in the
midst ; the remaining space being taken up by mine host
and his wife, their six children, her two brothers, one
sister, a brother-in-law, and a few neighbours and children.
Our men all stood outside at the door. The “violao”
(guitar) was then tuned up, and the three sisters sang in
harmony.

One thing struck me, that whereas in conversation the
natives are so emphatic with gestures that one can almost
understand everything they wish to convey to your mind
from the acting alone, the singing was without move-
ment or spirit, and nasal ; the guitar was wiry, but the
performers kept good time, and the entertainment was
pleasant. Of course, the songs all referred to the tender
passion, and some were rather amusing.

Between whiles I talked to the old man, who is the
most intelligent person among the lower orders that I have
come across, and, having been a schoolmaster, is well read
on many matters. We spoke of slavery ; he is in favour of
the gradual emancipation scheme. An uncle of his had by
will released his thirty-four slaves at his death. He told
me that occasionally, at sixteen or eighteen years’ interval,
there is snow at Casa Grande a finger’s thickness ; but, of
course, it melts in the daytime. He talked of England
and the “ Lady Victoria” with great respect ; he esteems
the Queen very highly. He wished to know all about our
English fazendeiros, or farmers, as he heard they were
very rich. I told him something about our farmers and
landowners and their increasing difficulties, especially
owing to the spread of democratic principles, and explained

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

1 16

something of the riches of manufacturers, ironmasters, coal-
owners, etc.

Some years ago the old man’s wife had become quite
blind from cataract. He took her down to Rio, where she
was operated upon, and can now see tolerably, but only by
wearing a huge pair of spectacles with circular highly
convexed glasses, which, with her old wizened face, make
her look just like an ancient owl. All the women get old
and ugly here comparatively early ; and, with their exceed-
ingly wrinkled and wizened faces bandaged up with hand-
kerchiefs, they look fac-similes of the women in the
pictures of the old masters of the German schools.

I spoke of the blind in England, how they not only
have books which they can read with their fingers, but also
a style of writing by pricking, so that one blind man can
write to another, who can read it himself. He replied,
“What a wonderful country England must be! Here the
blind have nothing to do, and are shut out from every-
thing.”

November 26. — The singing in harmony of the blacks at
their work of weeding the young maize plantations on the
other side of the valley was extremely pretty, softened by
distance. These blacks work about eleven hours a day,
and get a milreis ; they are mostly freed slaves. Aleixo
has eleven working in his plantations, four of whom
belonged to an old priest who freed them on his death, and
left twenty-five alqueires of land for them to settle on,
build huts, and cultivate for their own use. They are fine,
stalwart, pure-blooded negroes.

In the evening we had a final serenade from the same
“ artistes ” as on the 24th, with the addition of some
dancing. Roberts did the proper thing, and picked out the
prettiest girls he could select, while I looked on. There

BEGINNING OF THE RAINY SEASON.

ii 7

was certainly not much room for it ; but the movements
of the graceful swaying and bending of the body were
pleasant to watch, and the little bare feet glided prettily
over the uneven mud floor to the tunes from a wiry guitar,
manipulated by a man who seemed never wearied, but
played on continuously, with his head bent low over the
instrument, as if anxious to enjoy to the full his own music.

I IS

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CHAPTER VII.

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO.

Camp near Olhos d' Agna.

November 28, 1883.— It seems strange to be writing at the
end of November, with the thermometer at 750 in the open,
two hours and a half after sunset ; but such is the southern
hemisphere in the tropics.

Our new camp is built on a promontory of campo
(prairie), far above the swamps of the broad valley which
surrounds us on three sides. There is nothing loftier than
short grass on this summit, and as we look for miles east
and west we shall have the benefit of all the air there is.
The scenery is extremely pretty.

I had two visits from Doctor Rebougas at Casa Grande,
on the 24th and 26th. He came to see the progress of the
plans and trial section, with which he was satisfied, and
was very friendly.

Yesterday afternoon my horse fell with me for the first
time, but it was not his fault. I was trying to cross a
piece of wet ground, when the horse went in nearly up to
his haunches, and then rolled over, with my left leg under
him. Fortunately the ground was very soft, so I pulled
my leg out, and got him up and on to more solid ground.
We were neither of us any the worse, and were off again,

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 119

finding a more passable route, before any of the men could
come to the rescue.

I am most thankful to say that the carrapato torment
has now practically ceased. Since the rains really began,
about three weeks ago, I have only come across stray ones
occasionally ; but these are of a larger species, which,
however, one can generally feel on their first attack, and
pick off before they have buried in their heads ; besides
which, I now wear my nails cut pointed, in the native
fashion, so as to dig them out better.

November 30. — We have felt our exposed position at
nights, and the wind shakes every rope in the tent. On
the night of our arrival we were awakened at 1 1.30 by the
most terrific thunderstorm that Roberts says he ever wit-
nessed, and he has been long in India and tropical
America. The wind shook the tent about so, that we
jumped out of bed, and each rushed to one of the tent-
poles to prevent its bending or breaking. Some of the
ropes gave way, and the outer covering flapped about.
The noise of the rain on the tent top and sides, placed as
it was on a bare down, was a continual roar ; but the
climax was the lightning, which every instant pierced the
pitchy darkness, revealing everything as clear as day,
followed by the most awful thunder, as if a thousand
8 1 -ton guns were exploded and then rolled upon each
other like marbles.*

Continuous rain since yesterday has kept us indoors for
two days, so we have been able to attend to many matters
and plot some of our work, as well as very limited space
will allow.

* It might interest members of the Psychical Research Society to know that
on this same night my mother and Roberts’s wife dreamt (?) we were in danger,
as we heard from the next letters which we respectively received from different
parts of London. The two ladies were unacquainted.

120

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

December I. — Last night I extracted a large berno from
my leg, where he had been a month. He was about three-
quarters of an inch long, and a quarter in diameter, the
larva of a blow-fly.

December 3. — Now summer heat has fairly set in, the
thermometer registered 1 39° yesterday, and driving the
lines ahead, cutting every step through dense capoeira
and jungle, is fatiguing. I have had letters from two or
three friends in England very anxious to know about the
geology of the district, urging me to make large collections
of butterflies, beetles, and, in fact, every insect I come
across ; also very lengthy and most interesting letters on
the botany, informing me of the special genera that I am
particularly to collect. Whatever else I may do, I fear
plants are quite out of the question, owing to the time and
care they require. I collected a few, but they were ruined
by the rains and damp, which penetrated everywhere.

It is extremely tantalizing to be in the midst of so much
beauty, and to have absolutely no time except on Sundays,
when I generally rest and read ; the importance and
responsibility of the work throws everything else into the
background, and now it is getting too warm for very much
exertion in addition to the day’s work.

We are getting on very well, but I would not mind
sending you a little bit of sunshine in exchange for a slight
frost ; nevertheless, there is often a fresh breeze, and it
seems quite cool, with the thermometer at 750, two hours
after sunset.

December 4. — To-night is windy, after a very showery
day, which, following on the great heat we have had lately,
makes one chilly and cold, though the thermometer is 66°.
I am sitting wrapped up in my thick poncho to keep

warm.

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CA MAP U AO. 121

On Sunday last, being Advent Sunday, I went to
church, not having been for two months, and though every-
thing is so different to what one is accustomed to, I dislike
much the idea of never entering a place of worship for so
many months, and there is no alternative ; besides which,
it is a good example to my men, and people like to
meet me at church, as every one is most punctual in his
attendance.

I took advantage of the long ride, mostly along the
valley of the Camapuao, to explore the best route for my
line, and found that I shall have to cross the river several
times. The third crossing is at a disagreeable spot. There
is first a marsh, which is very awkward to traverse; it is
some sixty feet wide. I tried to cross it, but sank over
the long boots and got a soaking ; then I set to work to
have a lot of branches cut down and thrown in, until at
last one could cross with a few inches of water only.
Beyond the marsh is a belt of thick capoeira some
eighty feet wide ; and then we reached the river, which
was so swollen by the rains that I had to go two miles
down stream, where a tree-trunk thrown across affords a
passage.

The rain, as we were led to expect, delays the progress
of the work, and though one may try to work in a steady
rain, it is really impracticable ; the spider’s web in one of
our levels broke after one day’s persevering work in a
drizzle. Neither can one work at the setting out and
cutting picadas without being chilled to the bone, as when
the temperature is below 70° it feels very cold. To-day, in
spite of threatening clouds, we started work; but soon a
drizzle began, then at nine came a heavy shower, while at
ten the rain came down in right earnest, vertically and by
bucketfuls, so we were obliged, after trying a little longer,

122

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

to return in a drowned-rat condition to the tents by eleven.
There have now (December 8) been three days of almost
ceaseless rain.

December 12. — Last night we had another terrific storm.
Many of the cords tying down the tent gave way, pulling
out the pegs, the poles rocked backwards and forwards, the
rain beat in through the door-flaps on to our beds and
poured along the floor. We stood with our arms pressed
against the top of the tent, so as to lessen the collapse if
the poles should break. When the little hurricane had
passed, in about a quarter of an hour, I went to look up
the men in their tent, made two of them cut new pegs
and, by the fitful yet dazzling lightning, refix our cords,
while others attended to their own tent. They are so lazy
that they would allow the tent to fall about their ears
before they would think of repairing any broken ropes or
uprooted pegs.

When the rain ceases, in the daytime it is very steamy
and oppressive, especially near the marshes along the banks
of the river. The steamy damp is most enervating, and
I feel the effect of it to a certain extent ; for it has a ten-
dency to make one wish to do no more than is absolutely
necessary. If this went on long, and I were to continue
in camp, I have little doubt that my home correspondence
would dwindle down to very small proportions. It is one
thing to be, in the tropics, indoors all day in a cool, dark,
well-ventilated house, and quite another thing to get up
early and work continuously out of doors under a sun
which gradually creeps up in the sky till it is invisible,
being at the zenith. One is surrounded by a thousand
insects, mosquitos and wasps, and one longs for a drop of
water ; but the rivers are the colour that the Red Sea ought
to be, and withal lukewarm. I do not so much mind

SERRA DO CORTUME, FROM VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAI'UAO (LOOKING SOUTH).

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 123

swallowing half an ounce of mud in a pint of water, but
I do object to drinking tepid water.

Camp near Village of Camapado.

December 23. — On the 20th we shifted camp to this
village, some eight miles nearer Brumado. I must first
tell you one or two incidents which took place before leaving
our former site.

We had a visit one Sunday from Senhor Sidney, of the
Fazenda Boa Vista, and a brother-in-law, Antonio, from
the Fazenda do Cortume. We talked about England, its
commerce, machinery, coal, iron, etc. I could not make
them understand what coal is;* they had never seen it, and
I could hardly give a geological lecture in Portuguese !

I told the Capitao Sidney that they should not leave so
much land uncultivated. He replied that the Brazilians are
not energetic or enterprising ; that it requires Englishmen
for that ; that they plant coffee, and sow cotton, beans,
Indian corn, sugar, etc., for their own use, or sufficient to
keep themselves alive, and breed horses and mules and
cattle. They are very lazy, and prefer sitting on their
heels smoking cigarettes, appearing to consider that work
is only for slaves and women.

Another day I met the capitao on horseback just
returning from Queluz, where he had been attending the
courts as a juror. He told me that the jury, consisting of
twelve, is chosen from a list of forty men ; they get no pay,
and attendance is compulsory, under a fine of fifty milreis.
Regarding the state of crime, he said there are no murderers,
or robbers, or thieves here among the natives or blacks,
though a chicken or two may be taken from time to time ;
but occasionally some of the Italians or other foreigners,

* Carvao de pcdra (Portuguese). Carvao is charcoal.

124

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

who mostly come to get work on the railway, though a few
of them are pedlars or itinerant musicians, may commit a
murder or other crime for the sake of robbery. There is no
capital punishment ; the severest sentence is imprisonment
for life or transportation to the island Fernando de Neronha.

He informs me that Oueluz is now filling fast with
people, who are building houses everywhere round about,
in anticipation of the railway being opened as far as that
place by the ioth of January next.

In his clearings are ten and a half alqueires * of maize,
which is now coming up finely. The yield will be probably
eighty carros (ox-carts), each carrying from twenty-five to
twenty-seven alqueires of maize ears, which is a pretty good
return.

On the afternoon of the 17th, we had to ride a long
distance to meet some men on business ; it rained nearly
the whole time, and the return journey of two hours and a
half was through a ceaseless deluge. Having passed over
a marsh brilliant with fireflies and a will-o’-the-wisp, we
forded a much-swollen stream, up to the horses’ girths, and
reached camp at eight, thoroughly wet.

December 20. — We had ordered the ox-cart to be here
early this morning to shift our camp. It was only about a
mile — as the crow flies — from the ox-cart’s starting-point
on the other side of the valley to our camp ; yet, owing to
the amount of water in the river, they had to travel some
six miles by a circuitous route ; and even then, when they
reached the ford, it was impassable for the cart ; so the
oxen were unyoked, the cart was left on the other side,
the oxen were brought over somehow, another cart was
borrowed on this side, and it finally arrived at 12.30.

* An alqueire of land is the surface that can be sowed with an alqueire of

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 125

Having been very showery all the morning, we had not
struck the tents, but in three-quarters of an hour the pack-
ing was done, the chickens were shoved into a chimney-
shaped wicker basket, the fowls, their legs tied together,
were hung at the side of the cart, head downwards, the
cock perched on the top gave a final crow, and we started ;
a goodly company — our two selves, eight men, ox-cart with
ten oxen, and four men and boys as drivers.

Just above the old camp was a horribly rough place at
the edge of a huge barrancada. The wheels on one side
sank into a kind of rut ; the cart was at nearly 20°, and
looked as if it must tumble over ; the oxen would not move.
Then began yells and howls. Some of my men jumped
on the cart to prevent its turning over, others goaded
the poor oxen and twisted their tails. At length they
moved, and in time got up the slope. A quarter of an
hour later we came to the will-o’-the-wisp swamp, and here
the men found that they had not enough oxen, a dilemma
we had anticipated when we saw only ten in the cart.
They were again unyoked, and allowed to roam about and
feed, while two men went after some more cattle. This
additional delay was too much to give in to ; so, leaving
all our men in charge, with orders not to leave the cart till
they joined us, we rode on ahead to find accommodation
for the night at the general shop of the village near the
new camp, as of course there was no hope of the cart
arriving that day. The cock crowed us a farewell, and
was much excited at being answered by a crow from a hut
close by.

On the road we came across two snakes, a jararacussu
and a long thin slaty-blue one.

Arriving at the village of Camapuao, we put up at
the only house available, and were not only most kindly

126

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

received, but supplied with all the luxuries obtainable.
Our hostess was a charming old lady of ninety. She is
the ruling spirit, very active and voluble. A son and three
grown-up grandchildren — one of them a widow with one
girl — do the work. They gave us an excellent dinner by
the light of castor-oil lamps ; a good bedroom, the door
of which opened on to a verandah in front of the house,
and very soft beds of maize husks ; to these we retired at
8.30, tired out, and slept in sheets the first time for four
months !

The ox-cart did not reach the site of our new camp till
11.30 the next day, having been twenty-two hours coming
some eight miles ! Such is travelling in the rainy season
in Minas Geraes. We soon had the tents up, and then
returned to breakfast at our last night’s abode. After this
refreshment, by special request, I exhibited my beetle-box,
with the captures of the last twenty-four hours ; and then
heard an acquaintance, Joaquim Goi^alves de Souza,
explaining to our hostess (the old lady of ninety, who
is his grandaunt) that I went in for buying everything —
humming-birds, butterflies, and beetles — to send them home
to my country. Rather an exaggeration. We dined in
camp ; one of the chickens which had been shut up for
twenty-eight hours without food or water was taken out
of the wicker-work hamper and prepared for us.

On first settling down to camp-life, I was convinced that
so far my tin boxes were a delusion and a snare, as they
had been so battered about in the journey by rough
handling that it was with the greatest difficulty I could
open and shut them. This conclusion, however, has been
greatly shaken on examining the condition of their con-
tents, for on taking out (December 22) all my clothes to
be aired and placed in the sunshine, I found those which

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 127

had been undisturbed since they were packed in London
in June last, were as dry as a bone, while Mr. Roberts’s,
which had been in new leather portmanteaux, and have
been aired half a dozen times since he arrived on the 29th
of September, were all mildewed, and the inside of his
portmanteaux were likewise quite damp. I am, therefore,
in a state of mind concerning my compendium and leather
trunk left since August at Paraopeba, as I allowed them to
remain, thinking I might shortly return, whereas the days
have been only too short to get through the requisite work,
and now the track thither is impassable, owing to floods
and bridges that no one can pass over.*

December 24. — As our camp is in the midst of scrub, we
have cleared a space of a hundred feet square all round,
leaving only a few “gabiroba” bushes, which are in fruit
(very delicious, quite like gooseberries), and one tree for
tying the horses to, where they are fed with maize morning
and evening, and among the birds which come to pick up
the spilt corn are some half-dozen lovely canaries

We were presented to-day, from a neighbouring garden,
with a pretty bouquet of double dahlias, roses, larkspur,
nasturtiums, jasmine, and China asters.

We had six or eight visitors on Sunday afternoon.
Among them a boy of nine years old, who came with his
father, and smoked abundantly, but preferred a pipe to a
cigarette !

Christmas Day. — We were to have gone into Brumado
to-day, having received a special invitation to dinner from
the chief, f We should have numbered some eight Eng-

* This luggage eventually came to Brumado in March, 1884, and the
clothes had suffered from the damp, a broadcloth frock-coat was all green
with mildew. Everything that is unearthed even now (October, 1885) has a
rank, mouldy, charnel-house smell about it, especially any papers,
t Mr. Leathom Earle Ross.

128

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

lishmen, but rain began to fall again early, so we thought
it better to remain here, and spend a quiet day in camp.
However, by way of a little addition to our usual food,
I prepared some excellent soup for dinner, made of a
packet of riz au gras Julienne and some Brand’s essence,
flavoured with essence of celery. The riz au gras should
always be kept dry, but we cannot manage that ; conse-
quently it is now all as green as grass, and bends about
like soft toffy, instead of being as hard as a stone.

During the last ten days I have suffered somewhat, first
from “prickly heat,” which, however, was immediately
relieved and stopped in three days by taking Carlsbad salts;
I have also had some inflamed scratches on my right hand,
which festered and were disagreeable.

We are now meditating on our plans for Brumado, as
we hope to finish up the outdoor work of this section in
ten days or a fortnight, should the weather prove favourable.
Town life will be very different to tent life ; it has its ad-
vantages as well as disadvantages, but will be much more
expensive.

There is a Lancashirism which obtains here, and which
I do not think I have mentioned, that of terming men
“ lads,” the native term being “ mogo ” or “ rapaz.” Men
address each other thus, and speak of absent friends in the
same way; similar to the term “boys” of North America.

January I, 1884. — There are some pleasures in being,
as in our last camp, far removed from any inhabitants, and,
in fact, I was six. weeks without seeing one of the fair sex,
or any one besides my own men, with one or two rare
exceptions. There are also comforts to be derived from
being camped near even such a small village as Camapuao
is. Peaches are just beginning to ripen, and we can get
any amount for the trouble of picking. At present they

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 129

are rather hard, but when stewed are excellent. We had
a grand display for breakfast to-day, for, being a great
feast, we could not work — vegetable marrows, aipim (a
kind of yam), rice, beans, a salad of tomatoes, cucumber,
and onion, bread, stewed peaches, melon, not forgetting the
usual fowl. But with all this good food the meal was not
what it should be, owing to wretched cookery, no oil or
vinegar, only some pepper (the remains of some I brought
from England), and salt as used by the natives, grey in
colour, and each grain the size of sparrow-hail shot.

In the afternoon we had an amusing visit from four
lads, aged ten to sixteen ; one of them was quite a young
“ masher,” with long shirt cuffs, a ring, and three silver-
looking studs in his shirt. He smoked assiduously. They
were all bright, intelligent-looking boys, in their best “ bib-
and-tucker,” and carried little switches, though they had no
shoes or stockings. The youngest was really very good
looking, and all were very conversable, looking about,
admiring everything, asking questions, and making remarks,
very glad of the offer of a cup of vinho virgem ; and at
length, on leaving, they shook hands, took off their hats and
bowed, and hoped God would be with us.

We bought a lot of aipim tubers, each about a foot
long and two or three inches in diameter, with a brown skin
that peels off revealing a white root ; they are very good
eating, when boiled, and similar to a mealy potato.

In the evening we had a visit from a band of a dozen
men and boys, black and white, with three guitars and a
drum. They came to celebrate the Feast of the Three Kings
(Epiphany). I told them they were a week too soon, but
they did not see it. They shoved into the door of our
rancho a banner of white cotton. At the foot were repre-
sented two white kings, with long black beards and sweeping

K

130

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

garments ; facing them on the right side was a black
king — all had gorgeous gilt crowns ; above was an alle-
gorical design of a woman standing on the globe (which, I
suppose, represented “ she shall bruise thy head ” *). From
the right top corner of the banner streamed forth a brilliant
yellow comet. They sang several hymns and carols, mostly
with refrains, in excellent time and capital harmony. This
serenade, in a dark pouring evening, was a very pleasant
passe-temps. Having given them a milreis and some liquor,
they went and performed again at the men’s tent, so we
had a repetition softened by distance.

The next day we bought about three pounds of grapes
for fourpence, which, though not over ripe, were very
refreshing. We also purchased eighteen cucumbers for
sixpence, and two dozen green limes for threepence.

In the evening our men enlivened us by singing
Epiphany hymns, and a liturgy to the Blessed Virgin Mary
in harmony.

January 3.— We have now been rain-bound for three
days, and so, after getting through necessary indoor work as
far as we could, we had recourse to a file of papers and little
books, Graphics, etc., which you have sent, and they proved
really a God-send. A kind Manchester friend also sent me
the Christmas number of the Illustrated, so we were well
supplied, and you do not know what a boon they are
to us.

After some really good work last week, notwith-
standing Christmas Day, this week we could do but little
so far. Tuesday (New Year’s Day) was a holiday. Wed-
nesday we went out a long way, did a quarter of an hour’s
work, and returned drenched. To-day, in tent all day. It
is the worst bout of rain we have had, and is so depressing.

* “ Ipsa conteret caput tuum,” Gen. iii. 15, Vulgate.

TROPICAL FOREST,

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 131

January 5. — This has been our first real day’s work
in the new year, and I must give you some account

of it.

At 6.30 a.m. the weather appeared rather finer, with
detached clouds, but no blue sky. At seven it was showery ;
but yearning to get out again, we determined to sally forth.
The showers soon became settled rain, which fell with
scarcely any intermission the whole day. It was fearful
work. We were engaged setting out lines through dense
forests, mata virgem, capoeira, and undergrowths, on steep
side-long ground. After a long morning spent in push-
ing and cutting my way, torn by thorns, drenched not only
by the rain but by the droppings from the vegetation,
I felt somewhat done up, and, as breakfast was very late,
was obliged to give over work and sit down at 1 2. 1 5 to
rest. When the food did arrive, the man had forgotten to
bring anything to drink, though we had my flask, which I
always carry full of water with a dash of cachaga in it.
There was no water to be had fit to drink, as every stream
and rill was red, and as thick as pea-soup. We breakfasted
in the picada, and tried to keep off a little of the rain by
having an umbrella held over us, but numerous streamlets
kept running off it, either down our necks or on to our
plates.

In the afternoon we reached the mata virgem. Here
the undergrowth was much less than in the capoeira,
where I had been hacking away all morning, sometimes
passing through lovely dells carpeted with various ferns ;
among which appeared tree-ferns with half a dozen light
green fronds, and handsome-leaved plants ; some like
dracaena, others with long ovate pale-green leaves, and
cycads, but all overhung by and intertwined with a net-
work of innumerable thorny creepers ; some very thick,

132

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

without leaves, but with strong curved spines about three
inches apart and half an inch long, similar, I dare say, to
the African “wait-a-bit” thorns; besides many smaller.
There were also many trees and shrubs whose trunks and
branches were studded all over by a mass of long sharp
spines, some of them sticking out from the trunks in
bunches, branching out like the end of a lightning con-
ductor, about three or four inches long by six inches across.
I also met with thick clumps of long, jointed, reed-like
grass, or dense masses of feathery bamboos, through which
it was impossible to see a yard in advance. So I went on,
with at least one ranging-rod in my left hand, and my
“ facao ” (long knife) in my right, my mackintosh torn in
a dozen places, shaking off fresh showers at every step ;
every stitch on me soaking wet, above my waist from
perspiration, below with rain ; my hands scratched and
dotted over with many thorns ; my long porpoise-hide
boots wheezing and squeaking with the water in them, and
my feet slipping every few steps on the steep saturated
ground or on some hidden moss-covered trunk, or stum-
bling against a huge dead and decayed tree, fallen but
partly upheld by creepers.

On reaching the virgin forest, several large trees had to
be cut down, some of them rising forty to sixty feet with-
out a branch. With a great sound of tearing asunder the
creepers and breaking off of the branches of other trees,
they fell some forty or fifty feet into the River Camapuao.
The course of the river itself was hardly distinguishable,
except by a rather stronger eddying current, as the floods
formed a red lake some half-mile in breadth, revealing
as far as the eye could reach a submerged swamp, with
islands of bushes and a few fences peeping above the
waters.

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 133

It was a strange mixture of the picturesque, the
grand, and the weird, at a time of the greatest personal
discomfort.

I spent a great part of the next day (Sunday) in a
manner which, though absolutely necessary, was about as
far from a congenial occupation to me as anything could
be, viz. drying my drenching garments of the previous day
in the fitful sunshine. Twenty times or more I had to take
them all in on the approach of numerous showers, and then
hang them out again (on the poles we have had erected
for that purpose) when the showers had passed. I know
nothing more trying and irksome than this sort of
occupation, when one is endeavouring to write or read ;
but the result was that on Monday we had dry things to
put on.

January 7. — There was a funeral to-day of a poor man
who lived, or rather died, in a hut close by. The procession
of men and women left the house singing, as in the other
funeral I told you of. They were all dressed in their usual
clothes, being, I suppose, too poor for anything else ; and,
in fact, we were asked to help them last night, which we
did. The dead man was simply laid on a bamboo bier
and covered over with a sheet, the bier being carried by
four men. How they managed to get along the road I
cannot imagine. They must have had hard work to carry
their burden, for you never saw such a state as the road is
in now ; in fact, all traffic, even on horseback, is stopped.
One can only go on foot, and risk either being waist-deep
in mud or else force one’s way through the bushes at the
side of the road. Captain Burton states that Brazilians
have told him that men who travel by such weary ways
need no further process of punishment.

I must now mention the various fruits and vegetables

134

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

which are grown in this locality, and which I have eaten,
or, at least, seen in gardens.

Tobacco

Pineapples

Guava

Cabbages

Coffee

Oranges

Raspberry

Black beans

Cotton

Limes

Custard-apple

French beans

Grapes

Lemons

Melons

Peas

Bananas

Figs

Cucumbers

Onions

Plantains

Peaches

Vegetable marrow

Radishes

Maize

Apples

Potatoes

Rice

Sugar-cane

Quince

Sweet potatoes

Tomatoes

Castor-oil

Gooseberry

Mandioc

Lettuce

Chillies

Blackberry

Yam (Aipim)

This list seems to prove that almost anything will grow
here. When I see the small patches of cultivated ground,
and the luxuriant abundance that they yield, and then take
a bird’s-eye view of this broad, fertile valley, wherein but
few traces of cultivation are visible, and remember it is but
one among thousands, it gives a faint idea of the almost
inexhaustible resources for production.

There is no population away from the main roads, no
labour, and no energy in the few inhabitants that exist ;
the facility with which they can get their bodily wants
satisfied is the reason of their being in continual, perhaps
unalterable, poverty. The expense of transport, distance
from foreign markets, and enormous competition would
probably prevent the possibility of exporting much ; but, at
least, there is room for immigration on a gigantic scale to
one of the healthiest climates that exists, as is shown by
the success of the German colony at Petropolis.

There are no coffee plantations near here. Grapes are
planted very sparingly, so also cotton, sugar-cane, oranges,
and rice, being chiefly for the owners’ use alone ; but as
the produce is always excellent, there is no reason why
they should not thrive as well in large plantations as in
plots of an acre or two. The only thing planted at all

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 135

abundantly is maize, and Mr. Roberts, who has had ex-
perience all over the world, says the growth here is the
most luxuriant he has ever seen. It is used abundantly for
making farinha (the kind of “sawdust” also produced
from the mandioc root), and as flour, called fuba, for
porridge. Canjica, or maize boiled in milk, is a favourite
dish. The corn is also made into bread, cakes, and biscuits,
as well as being used for feeding cattle, horses, and mules.

Passing frequently through the many maize-fields, the
plants almost seem to grow as one watches them ; and
they are so strong and healthy. The seed was only sown
some ten weeks ago, and the plants are now eight feet high,
the stem a couple of inches thick, and the leaves three or
four inches wide. Everything else is green, rank, and
beautiful. But while the torrents of rain are descending and
the plants are luxuriating in it, there arises at the same
time from the valleys and the forests a continual steamy
mist, which collects into clouds ; and then, having performed
its work here, it is carried off on the wings of the wind,
receiving fresh fertilizing power to descend again in
another place to give strength, refreshment, and luxuriance
to the vegetation elsewhere.

January 8. — About two miles from here, along the
valley, lives an old priest, Padre Pinto, who has the most
violent antipathy to the railway, so I was in hopes of being
able to steer clear of him ; but unfortunately the most
satisfactory position for the line is parallel to, and about
twenty feet from, his fazenda. The first time we passed,
the house appeared all shut up ; but to-day, when we reached
it, the old padre thrust his grisly, unshaven face out of one
of the windows, and acknowledged our bow. As our break-
fast had just arrived, we thought he might have asked us
in to eat in the shade, for the sun was blazing and the heat

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

136

tremendous ; but he did not offer us any hospitality, so we
had to sit on a bank by the roadside in the full sunshine,
and have an umbrella held over us to diminish the effect
of the perpendicular rays. Repelled by the master, we
were pitied by one of his slaves, who came, while I was
cutting up some slices of cucumber and onion, to bring us
three cucumbers (“ pipinos ”), which he had just cut, and
were deliciously cool, besides being younger than the one
we had. While the slave was speaking to us, he often
turned round anxiously to see that his master was not
looking.

After breakfast, we went on working with theodolite and
level through the picadas, set out on that eventful Saturday
(January 5), of which I gave a full description. The scene
was so different, and the forest beautiful, but this time the
torture of the mosquitos was the objection.

January 10. — Last evening, as I was riding home from
the work, I met my friend Joaquim Goncalves de Souza,
who told me that a few days back a carro (ox-cart) had
unladen its contents at his fazenda, as, owing to the rains,
it was impossible for the cart to go on to Brumado, which
was its destination. Among the merchandise, he informed
me, was a box with my name on it, consigned to a Senhor
Joscelino Pacheco, at Brumado. I supposed it was the box
I expected from home, which was sent off from London on
November 16. Therefore, this morning I rode over there,
and found that it was as I expected. I made arrangements
to have it brought up here on a “ carrinho,” a little cart
drawn by four oxen, as that was able to cross the ram-
shackle bridge ; and it accordingly arrived in the afternoon
at the camp.

The P'azenda do Engenho — so this farm is called — is a
large establishment, and, from the number of slave-huts

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 137

all round, really appears like a small village. It is situated
off the main road, close by the bridge over the River
Camapuao, and on the bank of the river. The owners are
six brothers, who have several fazendas ; but two or three
live here with their mother. They all have a special aptitude
for carpentering, ironwork, and mechanics. There is a
carpenter’s shop and a forge, with plenty of water-power,
which is taken advantage of. Among other uses, such as
supplying the motive power to turbines for grinding maize,
it works the “monjolo,” or water-mill, which, with its mono-
tonous creak and thud, is almost perpetually in motion.
The owners were very kind, and showed me a lot of their
work, which is really well done. I inspected hammer-
heads, knives, etc., and was especially pleased with some
plane-stocks made of scented wood, and a well-finished
table with drawers, constructed of different coloured native
woods. After coffee and boiled eggs, I returned to the
work.

The next day the youngest of the brothers, named
Carolino, came to ask me to employ him, which, having a
vacancy, I was very glad to do. He has turned out a good
workman, besides being very willing and obliging.

That morning we saw an armadillo swimming across
the river ; my men killed him, but he was not good to eat.
This species has a short tail devoid of scales.

January 12. — We had our breakfast in a cottage at
Camapuao, full of women and children. The women were
all busy spinning and weaving. We bought some girdles,
which the natives wear round their waists ; they are strong
and well made, of cotton, which is dyed with various bright
colours.

About four o’clock we saw a heavy storm coming on,
and so finished up in a hurry. We had only reached

133

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Padre Pinto’s house when the storm came on in right
earnest. The house appeared all shut up, so we went and
took shelter under a large shed in the yard. We learned
that Padre Pinto had gone to Brumado ; but soon a large
assembly of women and girls appeared in the verandah,
and they sent us a basket with about a hundred peaches,
which we speedily began to demolish. The storm con-
tinued, its fury was unabated ; and as our horses, for which
we had sent, did not put in an appearance, we went over
into the verandah, and were received by the padre’s house-
keeper. Among the girls was a very pretty lass, who, we
were told, was the padre’s niece. We were soon very
friendly, conversed very pleasantly, and heard the whole
history of the family, with which, however, I will not weary
you. At length, as the horses never arrived, Roberts and I
very reluctantly took our leave to return for dinner ; and,
meeting our horses in the village, were spared going on
foot through the seas of mud on the high-road belowr our
camp.

We noticed that the pigs and horses belonging to Padre
Pinto were being regaled with peaches, which will show
you they are tolerably plentiful.

Having sent in a man to Brumado to buy rice and a
good supply of potatoes, he returned in the evening, stating
there was no rice to be bought, and eight pennyworth of
potatoes were all that was to be had in that city. The next
day two of the nice little boys who visited us a few days
since brought us two small bags of minute potatoes, for
which we gave them eightpence, and they were well
pleased with it.

On the 15th we had to ride some miles to a point on
the other side of the river, to join in our survey to a piece
that had been done from Brumado, and thus complete the

IN THE VALLEY OF THE RIO CAMAPUAO. 139

whole of the outdoor work of the first section. I had
previously been over there and arranged all the details ;
but we had a heavy day’s work to get everything com-
pleted. To gain a footbridge, the only means of crossing
the river, we had to traverse a submerged swamp. On
reaching the bridge, the saddles, etc., were taken off and
carried across ; and then one of the men had to go lower
down the river to a ford and swim the horses across.
Having accomplished this, we were able to ride tolerably
near to the point where our work began. Fortunately the
weather was favourable, and we suffered only from the
mosquitoes. We were in the thick forest ( mata virgeni),
and heard the screams of parrots, the chatter of monkeys,
and saw some bright Heliconidce. By working with all our
might we accomplished our task, and — I must confess with
some sorrow on my part — returned to camp, not again to
resume any outdoor work.

January 16. — To-day has been a very busy day, clean-
ing and putting away our instruments, packing up and
arranging the luggage, interviews with many visitors from
all round the neighbourhood, who have heard of our de-
parture and come to take leave ; one of my men wanting
change for a large bank-note, another wishing to be only
partly paid to-day, and to receive the remainder to-
morrow ; paying off and dismissing all the other workmen ;
worried by one visitor who wished to sell grapes, by a
second with eggs, while a third had cucumbers and toma-
toes to dispose of.

Our camp presented a lively scene, and the jabber of
many voices was ceaseless from morning till night.

140

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CHAPTER VIII.

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

Cidade de Entre Rios, (. Antigo ) Brumado de Suassuhy.
January 22, 1884. — We have now been in this town for
five days. We came in on the 16th, having finally
taken leave of every one. Our cook, Aleixo, was quite
affected when he said good-bye, and hugged us both in his
arms ; his eyes filled with tears, he sobbed, and could not
speak. As soon as we arrived here, we went to the house
called Hotel Entre Riano, and ordered breakfast. We
next paid a visit to Senhor Joao Baptista, who insisted upon
preparing breakfast for us immediately. We then pro-
ceeded to the office, and, after some business conversation,
returned to Joao Baptista. His excellent food was doubly
enjoyable after our camp fare, and his kind welcome
raised my spirits after the depressing influence of the past
few weeks.

I fear I forgot to mention that two days after Christmas
this benevolent man came to pay us a visit at the camp,
bringing some bread and cakes and three or four bottles
of wine.

Returning to the hotel, we arranged to hire the house
we are now living in ; it is opposite the hotel, in the main

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

141

street, near the principal houses. When I was here before
it was the post-office.

The terms are a hundred milreis a year. The house
has only one story, which contains one large apartment
some thirty feet square, to the right and left of which are
two small rooms — the one our bedroom, the other Roberts’s
dressing-room — which all face the street. I have also a
dressing-room ; and there are besides two storerooms, a
large kitchen, a bakehouse, and an ’ outhouse. The prin-
cipal rooms are about fifteen feet high, and are ceiled with
plaited bamboo ; but there is only an uneven mud floor
throughout, except in our little bedroom, which is boarded.
We have two windows to the street, which are glazed. Our
bedroom possesses three doors, but no window ; and the
other rooms have no casements, only the usual shutters.

The bargaining for the house was just completed when
our ox-cart arrived ; and when we had stowed away all our
property, we came to the conclusion that a little furniture
might be advisable, as all that was then in the house were
two long forms in the large room ; so after a few inquiries
we secured a bedstead for me, and a little table, which
we use at meals, and also for our drawing-board during
office hours.

My health has improved wonderfully, even in the short
time I have been here. I told you some weeks ago of two
sores on my right hand, which I thought were poisoned
scratches ; they improved ; but shortly afterwards every
scratch or bite that I had on my hands, or legs, or face,
festered in the same manner. A brilliant scarlet line of
inflammation ran up each arm, and my right leg was so
swelled I could hardly walk. Otherwise I was quite well ;
but never having a sore before, I wonder much what occa-
sioned them, and suppose it was want of butcher’s meat,

142

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

for since I have been able to get that I am rapidly recover-
ing. This infliction was far worse than carrapatos, besides
being horribly disfiguring ; and my appearance, when I
came into town with both my hands bandaged up and in
slings, excited great compassion.

January 25. — I saw last night a fine comet, due west.
It set about 9.30 p.m. The weather has been magnificent
and cloudless the last two days, but beautifully cool in our
house — only 78°.

February 1. — The townsfolk are very friendly, but
Sr. John Baptist is the most benevolent of all. A week
ago he sent, one morning very early, a large trayful of
cakes, biscuits, bread, and compote of apricots, with his
card, “ begging forgiveness for such an insignificant
remembrance.”

I have already described our house. I must now say
a word or two about our garden, which is bounded by stone
walls on three sides, and on the fourth by a mass of huge
cacti ( Cereus sp .) thirty feet high, now just coming into
flower. In it are some orange trees, and many coffee
shrubs ( Cojjea Arabica ), which are now both in flower and
fruit, but are wild and uncared for. The walls are over-
hung by the huge leaves of a plantation of bananas {Musa)
in the next garden.

A little further up on the other side of the road is a
very extensive house, but only of one story. According
to the invariable custom which obtains here with all the
larger habitations, a large shop or general store is the pro-
minent feature, with one or two public sitting-rooms out
of it. The house referred to belongs to Senhor Joaquim
Ribeiro de Oliveira. This gentleman has two or three
sons, two little girls, and a grown-up daughter, who is a
very accomplished musician. Senhor Ribeiro paid us a

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

H3

visit the other day, and invited us to go and hear her
perform, which we accordingly did the same evening, and
spent a very pleasant three hours listening to her delightful
playing. She practises two hours every morning, besides
her performances every evening, and when her windows
are open we can hear each note. She is very small, and
has minute hands and magnificent eyes, and is certainly
the best-looking girl in the town. She plays brilliantly,
con amove e espressione, and it is a great pity she is buried
here. I like her father, though he has not much to do
with John Baptist and his set; for politics run very high
in this place, and the former is a Radical, while John
Baptist is a Conservative.

Intermarriage within the prohibited degrees is carried
on to an alarming extent in these parts, either by the
reprehensible system of indulgence by the Holy See, or
by ignoring its commands ; perhaps more frequently the
latter, as some of the sensible and thinking men, though
religious, are not blind to the many errors of the Roman
Church. As to the sad result of one of these marriages,
a gentleman here, with a family of two sons and two
daughters, has one son and both daughters deaf and
dumb ! The younger girl is an intelligent child of thirteen.

I went to see Senhor Baptista on Sunday after break-
fast, and met his two sons, who have just returned from
a visit to Portugal and France. On their homeward
journey they called at Southampton, but did not go on
shore. I told them they made a great mistake not to
visit London, at least. The elder son is very pleasant,
talkative, and clever ; he lives at Juiz de Fora, some hours
by rail below Barbacena. The younger son, who is deaf
and dumb, came to return my visit in the evening, and
though I can manage to converse with Brazilians who can

144

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

talk, I found it somewhat difficult to hold communication
with a mute in Portuguese. However, he was very bright
and pleasant, explained to me the deaf and dumb alphabet,
on one hand only, and inquired as to my health. We then,
by writing, spoke of Paris and Lisbon, and I finally showed
him some Graphics, which he liked.

One of our men left here to-day (Februaiy i) for Eng-
land. He was chief of the third section, and suffered much
from fever on the banks of the Para. He came in here
very ill soon after we arrived, and had no appetite. I
dosed him with Warburg’s tincture,* and the effect was
marvellous ; his appetite returned, and when he left he
was a different man.

Yesterday the assistant engineer of the fourth section
came in invalided to go home. He has had two bad
attacks of fever, and was delirious for four days at Pitan-
guy. He is now suffering much from bernos, of which
he extracted seven yesterday and three to-day. His
wounds are severely inflamed, and the ride of a hundred
miles down to this place has, of course, intensified the evil.
He and his companion, chief of the section, have also fallen
in with many jiggers (“bichos de pe,” they are called here),
having had two or three under every toe-nail. They often
lodged in huts and cabins, where these insects are always
found. So far, I have escaped them.

After dinner, at sunset, we sit outside our door, to enjoy
the cloudless sky and balmy air after our day’s work, on

* Warburg’s tincture is certainly a wonderful medicine. It has never
failed. On one occasion half a bottle effectually cured a bad attack of
dysentery. This, with quinine and Cockle’s pills, were the only medicines
I administered. When the latter once became known, I was continually
being applied to for them, and was glad to find they did not deteriorate after
the box had been opened some time and exposed in camp to the all-pervading
damp, which made the pills quite soft.

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

145

the raised platform, from which four steps descend on each
side to the street, and from thence we watch what is going
on. The quiet is remarkable ; there are sometimes a dozen
people of various colours passing, but being all shoeless,
or occasionally in slippers, their tread is noiseless. During
the day there are horses, mules, travellers, ox-carts ; but
at night all is still, and lights are put out at 8.30. At
seven in the morning all the shops are open, and there
is a busy traffic. Even by six a.m. there are boys selling
milk and bread, and women carrying water, and every one
seems to be up and about.

As a change, the life here is not unpleasant for a time,
while the warmth is delightful. I think I have mentioned
that in no room is there any fireplace or stove. Our kitchen
grate is merely three stones in the middle of the floor
to keep the wood in order, and the smoke finds its way
out through the door or the interstices of the tiles ; while
our old hag, the black cook, who has two projecting front
teeth, squats on the floor preparing our food, retiring at
intervals to her spinning-wheel, or going into the back
house to attend to some indigo she is preparing, by steep-
ing in water, to dye the cotton, which is woven in a hand-
loom into coverlets.* Her two youngest boys play about
in the garden, the elder occasionally running out on
messages. The ancient dame, though “ugly as sin,” is
very useful — roasts and bruises the coffee, fetches water,
cooks, and does everything we require, for which we pay
her ten milreis a month.

I went to service last Sunday for the first time this
year. The church is a well-constructed building, with a
grand though rather tawdry interior, and it has three

* “ Indigo grows everywhere wild, and gives that fine purple gloss which
rivals the produce of Hindostan.” — Captain Burton.

L

146

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

altars. There is also a chapel, with a good exterior, but
much less decorated interior. The service was reverent,
but I disliked one feature connected with the hymns.
Two or three were started at intervals, sometimes by the
men, at other times by the women, and very well sung in
harmony, without accompaniment ; but they were disturb-
ing, first, because they were generally addressed to the
Virgin, and secondly, they distracted one’s attention from
the Great Service, as the priest’s voice was drowned thereby ;
and but for the genuflections and bell-ringing, it was
difficult to discern what part of the Liturgy was going on.
There was no sermon. How I long for the same service at
our church, where, at least, one is quiet and one’s thoughts
undisturbed !

February 5. — There have been several changes lately.
Mr. Large, chief of the second section, who lived in a
house with two other members of the staff at the other
end of the village, has now come to live at the hotel
opposite. My good partner, Roberts, is soon leaving, but
I intend remaining alone in this house, as it is large and
airy ; besides which, the privacy and quiet are very great
considerations. At the small house, yclept hotel, there is
no privacy. Being the post-office, the mails come in every
other day in the evening, leaving at about seven or eight
the next morning. When the mails arrive, the whole village
is in and out of the hotel, in which the only three bed-
rooms open into the main room — call it as you please,
post-office, hall, or general reception-room.

The postal arrangements are of the simplest and most
unsatisfactory description. The mail-bags arrive on mule-
back ; they are then brought into the room and opened on
the mud floor, in the midst of a surging crowd all anxious
for letters, etc. The postmaster has a table on which is

LIFE IN ENT RE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

147

placed a candle, sometimes in a candlestick, oftener
propped up against some support ; the letters and news-
papers are then portioned out into several heaps for the
principal people in the town, the remainder for nonentities
placed together in a bundle, those which have again to be
sent off to different places are placed apart. Then every-
one seizes his own parcel. Confusion, as may be surmised,
often occurs.*

I bought to-day a sixpenny bottle of Pink’s Oxford
and Cambridge Sauce, for 1280 reis, that is about 2 s. i\d. !
I wanted Worcester, but could not get it. Some sauce
is really needed to help to disguise the bad cooking.

Our cook always goes home soon after dinner. To-night
she and her children went out, extending their hands as
usual, asking for our blessing, while we were listening to
the delightful music of “ Semiramide,” followed by “ Ecoutez
moi,” and other choice pieces, from the piano of the pleasant
and talented young lady over the way.

The Feast of the Purification (Candlemas Day, Feb-
ruary 2) was a grand “ festa ” here. The town was filled
with gay throngs, and the church bells kept ringing the
whole day. In the evening there was a great “bailie,” or
ball, to which some of the staff went. It was kept up till
midnight.

Our office is in the chief’s house, some five minutes’
walk down the street. It has a large garden, in which are
many apricot trees, now borne down by the weight of their
fruit ; but, as usual, the trees are practically wild, no care
is ever bestowed upon them, and it is hardly possible to
pick off an apricot that has not, at least, one worm or

* Owing to our remonstrances, and after writing a letter to the head office
at Rio de Janeiro, a slight amelioration was eventually effected, and at least
the incoming letters were marked with the dated office stamp, which, before
our protest, was as a rule dispensed with.

148

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

maggot in it. This is only one specimen among a dozen
others of the indolence of the natives.

On Sunday afternoon (February 9), I went to see John
Baptist, and found that the fiscal engineer of the province,
Dr. Amerigo Brundao, had arrived from Ouro Preto. I
was introduced to him, and we had a long talk about the
railway. The next day he went through all the work we
have done, and on Tuesday, accompanied by Dr. Rebou^as
and the Public Prosecutor, came again and examined the
plans. They expressed themselves well satisfied with the
route chosen, as well as with all the details.

Februaiy 14. — I have already told you we can get
butcher’s meat here. The beef is called “ carne de vacca,”
i.e. cow’s flesh. They never kill bullocks, or even cows till
they are worn out, therefore the meat is not of the best,
being always full of muscle, but still it is meat. It costs
threepence a pound. Kid flesh is excellent. A kid costs
from one milreis to a milreis and a half, and is equal to
lamb. We had half a kid the other day, which lasted
Roberts and me for two days — that is, four meals. It was
roasted for us at our chief’s house, and with mint sauce
and new potatoes was delicious. We have also enjoyed,
through the benevolence of our chief, the fore quarter of
a young pig, roasted, with sage and onion stuffing, which
was superb.

The roast meat is cooked in native ovens, semicircular
in form, made of blocks cut from the huge termites’ nests,
which are hard as stones. The natives often convert the
actual nests themselves into ovens.

While talking of food, I may mention that our “ chutar
hasri ” (Hindostani for early breakfast) consists of bananas,
peaches, apricots, or pineapples (which cost twopence or
threepence each), with coffee, and milk and bread. After

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

149

working till eleven, we then have a meat breakfast, with
wine.

February 18. — Early this morning my colleague and
companion, Mr. Roberts, left for England, so now I shall
be alone. I fear that without him I should have been in
a sorry plight, perhaps obliged to go on the sick list, as
owing to responsible and urgent work I was ignoring per-
sonal comforts altogether, forgetting that one must attend
to many irksome affairs in order to keep in health. It is
not paying him much of a compliment to say it was plea-
sant to have an English companion ; but besides the kind
way in which he was always ready to fall in with my ideas
of the work, his long experience was invaluable in the
difficult task of managing the men, though, having been
longer in the country, and therefore speaking the language
better, I was generally the mouthpiece. The four and a
half months we worked together will be a very pleasant
part of my Brazilian trip to look back upon.

I have omitted hitherto to describe Brumado, so must
now say a word about it. The town is built on the top of
a hill, overlooking a broad valley, which runs north towards
the river Paraopeba. A glance at the map reveals its lofty
position, near the head waters of the Para and Paraopeba.
The town is some three thousand feet above the sea, and
all the principal houses are in one street, which runs about
north and south. At the southern end is the chapel, the
guard house, and prison, the government school, also private
houses and huts. Just below my house is the first shop,
kept by Joscelino Pacheco de Souza, brother-in-law of John
Baptist, where I get all my provisions, candles, etc. ; then
comes the hotel. A small chapel or oratory, which is
always closed, separates the hotel from Joaquim Ribciro’s
house, opposite which, next to me, resides the sister of

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

150

Padre Pinto with her family. Her husband is a collector
of inland revenue. Next to Joaquim Ribeiro lives Fran-
cisco, the man with a glass eye, brother of John Baptist.
Passing another large shop, the abode of Senhor Espiridiao
Ribeiro de Oliveira, and a new house in course of construc-
tion, we reach the “ Juiz direitor,” the judge, Dr. Amador ;
and opposite to him lives the Advocate Randolpho Fab-
rino. We then arrive at the church, which is on the highest
ground, the street ascending from my house to this point.
From the churchyard, which is surrounded in the ordinary
way by a low wall, is a grand view of the valley, extending
for miles, with the Ouro Branco Mountains in the distance.
John Baptist’s house, of two stories, and one of the finest
in the village, is opposite the church ; and on the other side
of the road, which at the church widens out to some hun-
dred yards, lives Joao, the brother of Joaquim Ribeiro.
Further on resides the Public Prosecutor. Beyond this the
street falls and gradually narrows, all the houses (with the
exception of the one next to Joao Ribeiro, where lives a
dear old gentleman, Commendador Jose Joaquim d’Oliveira
Penna) are one storied and insignificant, most of them
being huts. Our chief resides in a large roomy house
further on. At the extreme northerly end of the village,
near the cemetery, are four or five fine houses, at present
uninhabited. They were in a very bad state of repair
when I first came here last July, but John Baptist is now
doing them up, and one of them he intends to be a
Grand Hotel when the railway is opened.

After passing these last houses, the road descends
rapidly over a barren red waste to the Rio Brumado, on the
banks of which will be our station, some half-mile away
from the town. Dr. Rebougas was telling me the other
day his arrangements for the passenger traffic on the line,
which are as follows

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

151

The express train, which stops at every station, leaves
Rio de Janeiro at 5 a.m., and should reach Paraopeba
station before 6 p.m. (This name is now changed to Chris-
tiano Ottoni.) Passengers for Pitanguy will there leave the
broad gauge (one and a half metres) Government Trunk
Line, and, getting into the narrow gauge (one metre) train,
will proceed to this place, arriving at 7.30 p.m. Christiano
Ottoni is in the midst of uninhabited forest land, and not
very agreeable to stop at. The journey to Pitanguy will
be resumed the next morning. Such is the proposal. When
will it be carried out ?

In my brief description of Brumado I have only men-
tioned the main street, wherein many of the houses have
two stories. That street is on the ridge of the hill, which
slopes down on each side into pretty lateral valleys, thickly
dotted over with the huts of the poorer population of
all colours. A good deal of the land is under cultiva-
tion, and there is a network of paths and lanes amidst
most luxuriant bananas and other vegetation. It is a far
more interesting and picturesque part of the town than
the main street ; while in one spot is a first-rate hunting
ground for butterflies, especially lthomia , Heliconius, An-
artia, Heterochroa , Colcenis, which are the most abundant,
though there are many others. I need hardly say I often
come back from the office by one of these side paths.

March 3. — We have had as hard work almost as in the
parliamentary season in England, (though we have never
worked after sunset, but that is quite enough for the tropics
when under pressure,) to complete and despatch the whole
work of the first section by the 1st of March. The work
included plan and section, estimate and quantities, draw-
ings of permanent way, type bridges, and culverts, tables of
curves and straights, gradients and levels, culverts, etc.

152

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

And everything was in duplicate. We had just finished
on the night of the 29th of February, when a letter came
by special courier from the fiscal engineer at Ouro Preto,
requiring additional information, which meant another
day’s work. But we finally sent the whole to the President
of the Province on the 2nd of March.

March 10. — This evening there was a curious and weird
atmospheric phenomena — a lunar rainbow, the first I have
ever seen. It was very brilliant, a full semicircle, and was
backed by a mass of inky black clouds, which were lighted
up every moment by lightning.

Yesterday, being Sunday, I went by invitation to break-
fast with Senhor Joaquim Ribeiro,to meet Padre Francisco of
Olhos d’Agua, at eleven. He had received a letter from a
relation who is a Government official at Ouro Preto, stating
that the President of the Province was inclined to reject
my plans of the first section, preferring a route via the
valley of the Paraopeba. This is evidently owing to the
influence of the Sao Joao del Rey Railway Company, to
which I refer elsewhere. I thereupon went through the
pouring rain to the office, and brought back the map.
I also produced the Concession, and referred to the official
Government Reports on the subject ; and, after a long
argument, convinced my hearers — for by that time several
other men had come in — that the route I have selected,
while entirely according to the Concession, was not only
the shortest route to the Corte (Rio de Janeiro), which is
important in view of through traffic and extensions beyond
Pitanguy, besides those authorized to Sao Antonio dos
Patos ; but that it is also the best, and the only one that
could conveniently pass by this town, which is the most
important one in the neighbourhood.

I then went on to John Baptist, and he compelled me

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

1 5 3

to dine en famille at three, for which I was hardly pre-
pared after a substantial breakfast such a short time before.
I told him of the difficulty that had arisen, and recapitu-
lated the vindication of my route, with which he entirely
concurred, stating that he had no doubt the President had
been influenced by the opposition of the company I have
referred to. Senhor Joao Baptista is very much interested
personally in the direction the railway takes, as by follow-
ing my proposed course it will, on leaving this town, pass
for some three miles or more up a valley which is owned
by him, and is all in cultivation ; but, with a true spirit
of self-sacrifice, he is willing that his land should be taken,
if it be necessary for the public good. On leaving him
I went to the office, and reported my interviews to our
chief.

Since Lent began there have been two or three com-
municants every Sunday at the ten o’clock Mass. It is the
first time I have seen people receive the Communion in
Brazil ; but the members of the Roman Church are less
careful in that matter than the devout members of our own
Church. Can it be owing to the preliminary compulsory
confession ? Before Ash Wednesday the priest announced
that during Lent meat was only to be eaten once a day,
but on Sundays two or three times, if required.

March 20. — Occasionally foreign wanderers pass through
the town. A month ago two murderous-looking cut-
throats put up for the night at the hotel, in an outer room.
They were taken in free by the landlady, as they stated
that they were sellers of “ holy pictures ” and were very
poor. Later in the evening, however, they were found
counting piles of bank-notes. They went away after re-
maining two days ; but as they, sitting at their door,
watched me outside mine, knowing I was alone in my

154

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

house, I thought it well to give my large, nickel-plated
army regulation revolver an ostentatious cleaning, and
load it before their eyes. To-day, two pretty little Italian
boys were roving about the town with violin and harp,
playing and singing. I believe they made a good thing
of it ; but their father, who kept in the background, took
the money.

Guavas are now abundant ; they began to come in about
ten days ago. I found one or two ripe near the river, a
week ago, and being very thirsty, after a Saturday after-
noon spent in catching lepidoptera, I ate them. They are
by no means pleasant to taste when raw, and have a
peculiarly disagreeable smell ; the delicious and delicate
flavour only appears after cooking, and they are even more
succulent when the fresh fruit is simply skinned, cut up, and
stewed with a little sugar, than in jelly or marmalade. The
latter is called “ goiaba,” and is most excellent ; it is very
generally made here. *

This week the townsfolk have begun to weed the street
and mend the road in preparation for the crowds of visitors
who come here for the Holy Week.

It was only to-day that I was able to have the mince-
meat made up into mince-pies which you sent in the box
that arrived on January io. But it was in perfect condition,
and we all enjoyed it much, though rather late in the season.

March 23. — To-day Aleixo, our former cook, came to
pay me a visit, and to ask me to house him and his wife
and one or two brothers-in-law during the coming “ festa.”
I did not at all like the idea, but was compelled to assent
with as good grace as I could. In the afternoon I dined
with John Baptist, as I often do. The parish priest, Padre

# On leaving Rio de Janeiro for Europe, I bought a large quantity of it,
which was much appreciated in England.

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

»55

Antonio, was there, who said grace at the end of dinner,
after which a slave brought in a basin, and warm water
was poured over our hands. It is always the rule after this
ceremony to adjourn to the reception-room, which is very
large and lofty, and commands a magnificent view from the
windows in two directions. The only furniture in the room
consists of two small tables and two settles, with a number
of chairs of Austrian bent wood. On the walls are a few
photographs, a portrait of Pius IX., and two little English
chromo-lithographs, which I have long known and liked ;
one represented a smiling, light-haired, blue-eyed child,
playing with a daisy-chain, and the other a little girl asleep.

At sunset there was a pretty funeral of a little child.
A man carrying a cross went in front, with another bearing
a lighted candle on each side ; next came the priest, in a
white and gold cope ; then followed the coffin, covered with
pink stuff and silver lace, carried by six little boys ; while
at each side were four little girls ( anginhos ) dressed in
white, with veils, carrying candles. The village band closed
the procession.

Nearly every one in the village is suffering from
coughs and colds, which they call “ bronchito-asmatico.”
We have all had it more or less, while Mr. Large has had
really bad bronchitis.

March 30. — To-day being Passion Sunday, there was a
special service. All images have been removed ; the gaudy
super-altar, with all its appurtenances, was hidden by a
large mauve curtain ; the crucifix was also shrouded, and
the curtains of the tabernacle were of mauve-coloured silk.
There were only six candles burning during Mass, instead
of the usual twenty or thirty, and no ornaments. There
was but one communicant.

Two slaves were engaged the whole day in plastering

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

156

the outside of Joaquim Ribeiro’s house, not even leaving
off during Mass ; and yet it was thought fearful of us to
work at the office on Lady Day !

March 31. — To-night arrived intimation of the approval
of the plans of the first section by the President of the
Province, and there were great rejoicings. A crowd, headed
by the band, patrolled the street and went down to the
office, where a speech was made in honour of our chief. I
was in Joaquim Ribeiro’s shop when the crowd arrived
there, and in one of the speeches my health was proposed.
Joaquim then responded, and threw open his shop for any
one to come in and have a drink, and I received many
congratulations. Padre Pinto, who has been staying with
his sister for some time, sent me over a special message to
go and see him about the railway through his land ; but I
was unable to do so till the next day.

April 6, Palm Sunday. — I was disappointed that here,
in the country of palms, no notice was taken of to-day in
the way of special devotions, the only differences being
that red vestments replaced the green and yellow which
have been in use during Lent, and the service was that
apology for a Missa Cantata which obtains here, viz. a series
of most disturbing voluntaries played on the harmonium
throughout the service, rendering it impossible to catch a
word. You know how lengthy is the Gospel for Palm
Sunday, and can imagine how edifying it must be to the
people when read by the priest in Latin, in a low voice,
turned towards the altar, during a loud performance on
the organ ! The only indication I had of how much had
been read was when the priest ceased for a minute and
prostrated himself before the altar at the words “ Iterum
damans voce magna, emisit spiritum.” * Certainly one of

* “ When he had cried again with a loud voice, yielded up the ghost.”

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

157

the first reformations in the Roman Church should be to
have the services in the vulgar tongue, or at least the
portions of Scripture.

There are to be five processions through the town this
week. Tuesday, “ Nosso Senhor do Deposito ” (the Way
of the Cross) ; Wednesday, “ O Encontro ” (the Meeting) ;
Thursday, “ Nossa Senhora dos Dores ” (Our Lady of
Sorrows) ; Good Friday, “ O Enterro ” (the Burial) ; Saturday,
“ O Triumpho” (the Triumph).

April 8. — This evening was the first procession, which
started at seven. It was “ The Way of the Cross.” The
church bells began ringing at five, and continued at inter-
vals till all was over. The service began by choruses and
some music played by the band in the chapel at the south
end of the town, the priest in a purple cope meanwhile
swinging a censer with incense, from which arose clouds of
smoke, in front of a life-sized figure of our Lord — kneeling
under the weight of His cross — clothed in a black robe,
which reached from head to foot, and was fastened round
the waist by a white cord. The procession was headed by
a crucifer on whose cross were fixed the implements of the
Passion ; he was followed by a great number of men walk-
ing in two rows in Indian file, each carrying a lighted
candle. In the midst of this procession was the figure of
Christ — now veiled in purple, so that only part of the cross
could be seen — borne by four men, preceded by a thurifer
swinging the censer ; and then came Padre Antonio in a
purple cope, with two other priests in cassock, surplice, and
biretta. Arrived at the church, all candles were extin-
guished, a gauze veil that hung in front of the chancel was
torn down, and the Figure was placed on a stand before
the altar ; the chorus, etc., was repeated as at the chapel,
and at the conclusion of the service most of the congrega-

158

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

tion pressed forward to genuflect and kiss the end of one
of the cords.

It was certainly an imposing ceremony. Being a dark
evening, the light from hundreds of lanterns, which were
hung outside all the windows, besides the flaring candles
in the procession, made the scene picturesque, while a
heavy thunderstorm just before, and continual lightning
all the time, added to its solemnity. Everything through-
out was conducted very reverently and decorously, though
there were crowds in the streets, most of whom knelt on
the damp ground while the procession was passing.

April 9. — Since last Saturday people have been arriving
from all the country round in daily increasing numbers,
and the town is now crowded. Two most extraordinary
vehicles passed the office to-day, the only kind of convey-
ance, other than ox-carts, or sheep- or goat-carts, that I
have seen since I left Rio- — eight and a half months ago.
Imagine the body of a chariot, bereft of coach-box, springs,
and wheels, with two long poles braced to it across the
doors, borne by one mule in front and another behind !
Inside were women and children of some of the more
aristocratic fazendeiros ; but the vehicles looked brown
with age and the use of past generations.

Scattered along the main street are six small oratories,
capable of holding half a dozen people. They have all
been cleaned out and decorated for this week, and the
entrance adorned by a huge palm leaf on each side. Each
chapel has a small altar, with six candles, and a painted
altarpiece of more or less artistic merit.

Picture my surprise on returning from the office at being
met on the threshold by a little angel — the youngest son
of my cook. I had never seen him otherwise than as a
dirty youngster, whose only apparel was a ragged shirt ;

LIFE IN ENT RE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

159

but now he was clean, and got up regardless of expense.
On his head, a wreath of artificial red roses and leaves, tied
behind with two broad blue ribbons which reached to his
feet ; a white muslin frock, trimmed with gilt tinsel lace
and red roses ; two wings of purple and white feathers ;
long white drawers, frilled and worked ; white stockings ;
and a beautiful little pair of boots. Such a change ! — I
did not recognize him at first. He was going to take part
as an anginho, or “ little angel,” in the procession of the
“ Encontro,” or Meeting of our Lord with His Mother.

By half-past five there were streams of people wending
their way to the church, and many little girls dressed in
white, with long tulle veils and wreaths of artificial white
roses with green leaves, all carrying white pocket-handker-
chiefs. The first procession was the same as I described
last night, which, leaving the church, went up the village
by the chapels to the Calvary, or large cross, at the north
end of the town. It was preceded by a man in a long
black robe, a false beard reaching down to the waist, and
a tall hat like a fool’s cap. He went along producing
horribly discordant sounds upon a horn, and was supposed
to represent Judas! Meanwhile all was being prepared
in the church for the second procession — that of Nossa
Senhora dos Passos. This consisted of a number of men
carrying candles, who, with a band of sixty girls and my
boy, went from the principal church to that of St. Antonio,
to bring thence the image of Our Lady. The little girls
were mostly in white, but some were in very fantastic
dresses of various colours, or of cloth of gold or silver, and
with real swan’s wings on their backs. Two of them were
the little daughters of Joaquim Ribeiro. The two processions
met — coming from different ends of the town — just opposite
the church, when a sermon was preached in the open air

i6o

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

from a pulpit which had been erected for that purpose.
The preacher was very eloquent, and the sermon was stir-
ring. A litany was then chanted, every one kneeling, after
which the two processions joined into one and went down
the village, stopping at one chapel, and then returning to
the church in the following order : — a thurifer swinging a
censer, from which proceeded clouds of incense ; then the
figure of Christ, followed by the Virgin, dressed in a violet
silk dress and blue cloak, both of damask ; next came the
sixty young girls ; then the Host, carried by a priest under
a canopy held by six men. The procession was of great
length, as there was a row of some three hundred men on
each side of the road, each man holding a lighted candle.
A huge company of women and children followed behind.

On returning to the church, the Host was censed and
replaced in the tabernacle ; the sixty girls seated them-
selves on the altar steps, and a packet of sugar-plums was
given to each of them. The church was crowded — women
in the nave, men in the chancel — and then Padre Antonio,
climbing up into the pulpit by a ladder from outside,
preached another sermon. He ranted and raved so much
that I could hardly make out a word he said, but the
sermon closed with a scene which apparently moved the
people greatly. Speaking of the scenes in the Judgment
Hall, he said, “ This was the beginning. What was the end ?”
and, pointing with his finger towards the altar, a purple
curtain was drawn back, revealing a cross with life-sized
figure of our Lord on it, and the Virgin standing at the
foot. I dare say this kind of appeal to the senses may
influence the uneducated minds of the people, as pictures
are useful to children by conveying ideas more forcibly
than mere word-painting ; but, of course, there is much in
these processions and goings-on which is repellent and

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

1 6 1

objectionable, according to our more enlightened ideas.
The service was concluded by another litany.

April io. — To-night was the procession of Nossa Sen-
hora dos D6res. It was composed of the sixty girls, the
Virgin carried by four men, the Host, and a band, and was
followed by the usual crowds. After walking all through
the town there was a sermon in church ; and at 10.30 the
image of the Virgin, which had remained for three hours in
the church, was escorted in procession to the chapel of
St. Antonio.

The townsfolk are much disturbed at our working every
day in the Holy Week except Good Friday; but, though
I am very sorry to appear to do anything to give them
offence, I cannot see wherein our working in the office
differs from their keeping their shops open all day. How-
ever, nolens volens , the world must proceed.

For the last two days I have been living with the sword of
Damocles over my head, expecting when I returned in the
evening to find my self-invited guests installed. I have
laid in a store of provisions for them — rice, beans (_ feijoes ),
eggs, and salt cod Pbaccalhao'). I reluctantly gave permis-
sion for three or four men to sleep in one room — Roberts’
dressing-room — but said I had no accommodation for
ladies. In this tittle-tattling little town it has been spread
about that “ the doctor is going to have a houseful, and
several girls ! ” I have, therefore, been in a horrible fever of
anticipation, which this evening resolved itself into cer-
tainty. On returning from the office I saw three women
and a lad seated on my doorstep, and on entering found
that five women and this lad were already installed, and
they told me that more were coming. Three of the ladies
were the sisters of Aleixo’s wife, of whom I have told you as
entertaining us at Casa Grande with music and singing ;

M

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

162

the other two were girls, whom I knew by sight, from the
same village — one of them was rather pretty. They gave
me a letter from Aleixo, stating he was very sorry that he
and his wife were unable to come, but that his sisters-in-
law, brother-in-law, and some “ compadres,” * i.e. relations,
would accept my hospitality. Shortly afterwards the others
arrived, and then my guests numbered ten in all — three
men, five women, and two slaves. Oh ! was it not delight-
ful ? The five women all took possession of Roberts’s small
dressing-room, the two slaves were in the store-closet of
my large room, and the three men slept in the principal
room. They brought any amount of mats and bedclothes,
and twelve horses and mules. Fortunately they arranged
for the pasturage of the animals, so I had no trouble on
that score. All the saddles and horse-trappings, etc., were
stored in the closet where the two slaves slept — my wine-
cellar, only filled, however, by empty bottles.

Besides the stock of provisions I mentioned as having
provided, I had also laid in two bottles of cachaga, which
latter were emptied by my guests, the ladies, before I had
the pleasure of meeting them.

April 11, Good Friday. — I had arranged with my cook
that the guests were to prepare their own food, so that, at
least, she might not have additional work ; and I assigned

* I must here say a word about the term “ compadre.” Strictly speaking,
it is a religious expression, and has reference to the spiritual relationship in
which the godfather and godmother stand to the parents of their godchild. It
is their “ afilhado ” or “afilhada,” according to sex; they are the child’s
“padrinhos,” and are the “compadre” and “ com ad re ” of the child’s
parents. But these two last terms are applied with a wide meaning to other
friends than those who are thus spiritually connected. For instance, a wife
sometimes calls her husband “compadre,” and vice versd. The ties of this
spiritual relationship, however, are very highly considered — in fact, as much
as ties by marriage ; and a man who consents to be a godfather in these parts
has entailed upon him a multitude of duties, and incurs an amount of responsi-
bility which is unknown amongst us.

LIFE IN ENT RE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

163

to them an outer kitchen, where was an oven for their use ;
but they preferred to use mine, though they did their own
cooking, having arranged everything with my old beldame,
with whom they were immediately on the best of terms.
I had also arranged that they were to have their meals
whenever they chose, but that I must have mine separate.
To this they would not consent, but said I must breakfast
with them this morning, to which, of course, I was obliged
to submit. They had a filthy stew, reeking of garlic, com-
posed of baccalhao (salt codfish), rice, and feijoes. You
have no idea how repelling these black beans look before
one is accustomed to them. There were also “ repolhos,”
or greens, and farinha. I had not thought of supplying
them with wine, but as I was with them I could not keep
the bottle to myself. Fortunately only five of them were
present at breakfast, so we only drank the one bottle of
red wine, which was all I had in the house, and which they
much appreciated. Oh, the loathsomeness of that meal,
especially when one’s mind wished to dwell on the awful
tragedy we then commemorate ! — eating with fork, or
spoon, or fingers, spitting out bones, etc., on the floor ; and
finally, at the end of the meal, came the last straw, when
every one went to the pipkin of water in the corner of the
room, took out half a tumblerful, rinsed their mouths, and
spat it all out on the mud floor — anywhere, just where
they stood.

They all went out about eleven, and I had a nice quiet
time till 2.30, when they began to return, dropping in by
twos and threes, and we had dinner together at 5.30.

There was no service here to-day, which I consider
extraordinary, especially as there are now four priests in
the town. I asked Padre Antonio why he did not have a
Mass of the pre-Sanctified, and he shrugged his shoulders.

164

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

In the evening was the “Procissao do Enterro” (Procession of
the Burial). The general features were similar to those I
have before mentioned — men with candles, and crowds of
women and children in the rear. The cross with the instru-
ments of the Passion led the way; then came the sixty
maidens ; next the thurifer; then, under a baldequin, a bier
with a veiled figure of the Christ upon it, which was borne
by eight men, in turns of four each, all in white, with white
hoods on, tied under the chin. The figure of the Virgin
followed, carried by eight ladies, alternately by fours, all
dressed in black, with long black veils. On each side of
the bier was a priest, and a third priest closed the proces-
sion, which was about half a mile long. It went throughout
the village ; and two ladies were dressed up to represent
St. Veronica and St. Mary Magdalene. At intervals St.
Veronica held up a cloth with a representation of our
Lord’s head upon it, and everyone fell on their knees while
s he sang a recitative.

In the evening I had an interesting talk with the men,
especially with Aleixo’s “cunhado” (brother-in-law). I
had previously given him a Gospel of St. John ; and some
time after he walked — one Sunday — about two leagues to
my camp, and saying that I had told him I possessed
a copy of the whole New Testament, would be so glad to
have a look at it. Of course I lent it to him, and he took
it away, and, sitting on his heels outside my tent, had a long
read. To-night I gave him a Testament, with which he
was much pleased, and told him I had sent to England
to get it especially for him. He then and there sat down
and read the whole of St. Luke xxii., xxiii., aloud, which
took some time, as he was continually drawing the atten-
tion of his friends to certain passages which especially
interested him. We then had a long talk on those sub-

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

165

jects, and I pointed out to him many passages, all of
which he read aloud, and was very much interested in the
Revelation to St. John — a book he had never heard of. Of
course, his mind was very crude, and my theological Portu-
guese none of the best ; but by pointing out passages he
understood something, and said he would study the Book
carefully.

I told him that, of course, he would not understand it
all, that the Pope himself could not do that ; but that he
would, at least, in the Gospels and in the Acts, learn a great
deal of the history of the founders of the Catholic faith
that he did not know ; and then, turning to St. John xiv. to
xvii., the last discourse and prayer of our Lord, I told him
he would there read more of the actual words our Saviour
spoke than perhaps he had ever heard. He would, I
believe, have gone on all night ; but I thought it best not to
over-instruct, and turned down a few pages for his special
consideration.

He took away with him five Gospels of S. John to dis-
tribute ; so perhaps this most disagreeable visit may be
productive of some good, though I may never hear of it in
this world.

So passed Good Friday in Minas Geraes. At Rio de
Janeiro the Emperor commuted the sentences of eighteen
criminals.

April 12, Easter Even. — This afternoon I went after
insects, but the weather was so windy and cold that I was
not successful. In the evening was the “ Procissao do
Triumpho,” but as I was engaged dining with our chief I
did not see it.

April 13, Easter Day. — This morning, at three, there
was Mass at the church ; the whole of my guests were
present, the church was crowded, and the service was quiet,

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

1 66

reverent, and most refreshing. There were only two com-
municants— the good old father of John Baptist, to whom I
am very much attached, and one other man. At 6 a.m.
there was a procession, headed by a beautiful statue of our
Lord, followed by the Host borne by Padre Antonio, the
parish priest, in a white and gold cope, under a baldequin.
In front of the procession went a boy ringing a bell, and
every one in the street knelt as the Host passed. My
guests were then, after a short sleep, all up, and making
ready to depart. I had prepared my oxen and fatlings for
a high breakfast ; however, they would not wait for it, but
insisted on my breakfasting with them. Then came all
the horses and mules, and also a lot of their friends, male
and female, who were to ride in the same direction, and I
had to receive them and talk to them. Such a motley crowd
you never saw ; there was scarce standing room, even in my
large apartment. Finally, after many embraces and con-
gratulations, thanks, etc., a cavalcade of some thirty riders,
attended by slaves and mules bearing luggage, departed
from my mansion. And once more, at 9 a.m., I was left
alone and in quietness.

On the whole, despite much inconvenience, the ex-
perience of the last few days is not unmixed with pleasant
reminiscences, and I dare say I shall look back upon it
with pleasure.

By way of emphasizing my note on a previous page, I
may state that all my guests took an affectionate farewell
of my Hebe, and called her “comadre.”

I spent nearly the whole day with the chief engineer of
the fourth section, who came in two days since with his
left wrist broken by an accident, and his right arm disabled.

All the numerous visitors who came to the town for
the festa — and they must have numbered about three

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

167

thousand — left in the course of Easter Sunday and Monday,
when the cidade resumed its ordinary appearance.

April 17. — This evening on my way home I met four
niggers carrying the body of a man in a shallow coffin only
some six inches deep. He was dressed in a very good suit
of clothes and a new pair of patent leather boots ; his face
was covered by a handkerchief. The niggers were laugh-
ing, as if going to a picnic.

After dinner, Joscelino’s eldest boy brought me a large
leaf, from the under side of which, hung four of the most
gorgeous chrysalides I ever saw. They were about the
size of the pupae of the Large White ( Pieris Brassicce), but
appeared as if covered with plates of silver or burnished
steel. On the morning of the 21st, four days later, while I
was dressing, I saw the chrysalides changing colour and
becoming dappled red, yellow, and brown. An hour later
the butterflies all emerged, and turned out to be Mechanitis
polymnia, which is very abundant here. All the brilliant
lustre was then gone from the pupae cases, which were
transparent and colourless.

We have had another disturbance at the post-office,
in consequence of our chief having written to Rio de
Janeiro about certain irregularities, at which the authorities
here, who go on the let-things-take-their-chance plan, are
very irate. Several of the townsfolk are delighted, as they
have long been inconvenienced by the carelessness that
rules in this town ; but being Conservatives, while the
powers that be are Liberal, they were afraid of moving in
the matter, as it would be put down to party spite.

I told you some time ago that Padre Pinto wished to
see me about the railway, after having treated us with
scant courtesy when I passed his fazenda several times.
He is a poor miserable cripple, his left side being paralyzed,

1 68

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

so that he can hardly drag himself about, and the malady
seems gradually extending to the other side. He is always
in pain, has the most awfully cadaverous face, with sad
eyes, which glare at you from cavernous orbits ; he cannot
sit still a moment, but twists and contorts his face with the
most frightful grimaces, groans, and cries out, “Oh, my back ;
oh, my stomach, Santa Maria,” etc. He has the greatest
objection to the railway, saying it will entirely destroy his
pig-breeding (criagdo de porcos). I tried to reason the
matter out with him, but he would not be convinced, and
insisted that the railway must be moved to the other side
of the valley, which is, he says, much the better situation
for it. As a matter of fact, however, that would be the
most inconvenient route imaginable. However, I said I
would see what could be done about altering the position
of the line somewhat. I also spoke about the matter to
the fiscal engineer, who has lately been here again. On
Sunday I visited Padre Pinto, and told him that I had
done all I could, and had arranged with the fiscal,
engineer to see what alterations could be made in con-
struction, in case of my not being here. The poor padre
was greatly affected, and wept, and on my leaving sent
over his nephew with two bottles of vinho virgem for me.
He now wishes me to go in every day once or twice to take
coffee, and is becoming quite a nuisance by his well-meant
kindness.

April 20.— This evening all the remaining members of
the staff came up to my house, and Bithell stayed on after
the others were gone. About midnight we heard a
party of serenaders outside ; they have been about for
the last two or three evenings, and last night the fiscal
engineer was with them. To-night their party included
the Public Prosecutor and two or three others. They came

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

169

in here and played and sang to the guitar till nearly
1 a.m. ; so I had enough of them. They exhausted my
store of liquor.

The appearance of the sky on a moonless night is so
different here to what it is in the northern hemisphere ; the
stars are very sparsely scattered about, in comparison.
The principal constellations are in the neighbourhood of
the Milky Way, and that is thinner than ours. In the midst
of it is the Southern Cross, near which, to the south-east,
is a remarkable blackness that is incomprehensible to me.
I admire the Magellanic Clouds very much, and should like
to see them through a telescope. There is also the
beautiful a and /3 Centauri, and a little way off Canopus of
Argo-navis, second only in brightness to the Dogstar
himself.

May 4. — “Mez de Maria,” the month of Mary, has
begun, and now every evening there is a service in the
church in honour of Our Lady. Several friends have told
.me I ought to go and see it, but I have not been yet. To-
day, however, being Sunday, I went to church in the
morning, and was appalled at the sight that met my eyes.
The altar was all covered with white, all the various orna-
ments and images were removed from the lofty retable,
which was also draped with white, and at the top was a
tall statue of the Virgin entirely in white, with a wreath of
fresh flowers on her head. I hear that at the daily evening
service this wreath is renewed by a little girl. Round the
figure’s w'aist is a broad blue ribbon, which hangs down
over the altar, and this ribbon was devoutly kissed by
many on leaving the church. After the Gospel, Padre
Antonio preached a good little sermon on purity ; but at
the close of the service was sung the Litany of the Blessed
Virgin Mary, and other prayers to her.

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

170

May 7. — Yesterday, after nearly four months’ close
office work, when my daily walk has been up and down the
village twice a day, I went out with Large prospecting on
horseback, and the work was very interesting. The scheme
of our railway is to start from the head waters of the Rio
Paraopeba, and, following the shortest route by way of its
several tributary streams, to reach the head waters of the
Rio Para. In doing this we cross four divides : the first two
are between Paraopeba station and Brumado, one near Sao
Caetano, the other at the Serra do Cortume already de-
scribed ; the other two are on the second section, the first
of which separates the Rio da Cachoeira from the Rio
Cayuaba, and the second is the division between the waters
of the tributaries of the rivers Paraopeba and Para. All
these divides are from 3000 feet to 3200 feet above sea
level. The location of the line between this town and the
Cayuaba needed some alteration, and so we had to look it
up. Oh, what a relief it was after four months of office
work to get on horseback and canter over downs, or even
crawl along tracks through a dense forest ! But I also had
the delight of seeing some new insects, besides the
tantalization of being obliged to pass them by uncaptured.
One splendid opalesque white Morpho (M. Laertes ) flew
across our path.

From the observations we made I plotted an improved
line of sections to-day, which appeared most satisfactory.

One change which has resulted from my thus having to
go out, though only for a few days, is what I have long
desired. For some time I have been nauseated by my
hideous black cook and her extreme filth. I cannot weary
you with details ; one item will suffice. Imagine going into
the kitchen for some trifle or other, and seeing your cook
preparing your dinner, and whiling away the spare moments

LIFE IN ENT RE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

171

by “ picking them out ” of her daughter’s head ! — this said
daughter, who is my laundress, at the same time performing
a like grateful operation on one of her brothers. The next
moment my grisly old horror will be peeling my potatoes
or washing my rice.

Making the excuse of being out all day, I have, there-
fore, now arranged to take my meals with Large at the
hotel, and the black sinner comes every evening after my
return to bring water, and twice a week to sweep out the
house. I am, therefore, now relieved of the presence of
this siren and her half-clothed brats.

I received to-day your seven newspapers. Of course, I
have not had time to look at any of them, except the one
with a full account of the Duke of Albany’s funeral. The
first news I had of this sad event was a telegram in the
Journal de Cominercio , of Rio de Janeiro, of March 31,
which reached us on April 3 : “ The Duke of Albany died
at Cannes from an accident.” I was appalled, and could
hardly believe it. How I do pity the poor Queen, but
especially the Duchess ! I lay awake for a long time the
night after I read the news, thinking of them. But I know
this will be an occasion on which the widely spread sym-
pathy to others from our Queen’s motherly heart will strike
a responsive chord among millions, not only of her subjects,
but throughout the whole world. I am sure, for one, that
the old schoolmaster at Casa Grande would grieve if he
knew of the “ Lady Victoria’s ” fresh sorrow.

May 12. — We have now finished the outdoor part of
this extra work. Our route lay for about two miles along
a valley belonging to John Baptist, to which I have before
referred. This was the chief part of the cultivated ground
on the length we have just surveyed. Here the niggers
were very busy, on both sides of the valley, plucking off the

172

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

milho and putting it into ox-carts to be carried into the
town. I saw these niggers at breakfast round a large iron
pot containing “ angu,” which is a kind of porridge made
of maize-meal,* or fuba.

I met John Baptist one morning early, on horseback, in
his plantations ; he was muffled up in a large shawl, as is
usual here during the cold penetrating mists of early morn,
though the days are generally now cloudless and grand.

He has two farms in this valley, besides a fine bath
where he and his family come often to bathe. We came
across numbers of his cows and calves, and put up for
breakfast in one or other of his ranchos. He has lately
imported some machinery from France for making butter.
The process was explained to me the other day by his
dumb son. We also tasted some of the butter — his first
trial — and it was delicious ; in fact, perfect.f

The last time I was in the milho fields I wrote to
you of their luxuriant green stems and foliage — that was in
January; now all is brown and withered, and the corn is
fully ripe. In these plantations there is avast undergrowth
of the cotton plant with its lovely yellow flowers, and the
castor-oil plant ripe and ready for picking. Of the latter I
have eaten a few beans, which are prettily striped black
and white, and are not bad to the taste. There are also
black and white beans now ripe, the plants resembling
French beans. Any amount of gourds of all shapes and
sizes are mingled with the other plants ; they, too, are ripe

* By the kindness of our chief, a Scotchman, who gave me some Scotch
oatmeal, I frequently had porridge for breakfast. Oatmeal is unknown here.
I called it “angu de avea” (oats); and after the first lesson my old woman
prepared it to perfection.

t Before I left Rio de Janeiro I heard that he was sending butter to that
city, where it found a ready market, and was all ordered before it arrived, so I
could not buy any of it.

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

>73

and ready for making into the calabashes which are so
universally used. The cotton plants I mention are a
second crop, as the first crop is picked, and the snow-white
down is now being spun in every hut in the town.

Amongst butterflies I saw many Papilios , besides the
pretty green Colcenis Dido, which I have seen commonly
even in the streets of Rio de Janiero — and several Hespe-
ridce, etc., also many birds. The valley of the Cayuaba is
covered with dense jungle; the stream is only some six
feet wide, very tortuous, and bordered by masses of bam-
boos ; while many trunks fallen across the stream form fine
natural bridges for crossing through a paradise of moss,
maidenhair, tree-ferns, and other beautiful plants, trees,
and shrubs. In this valley I was able to capture four fine
specimens of a butterfly, Callicore Eluina, which Hewitson
describes as the most lovely species of that enchanting
genus.

Carrapatos were beginning to appear with the cessation
of the rains, and the bushes in some parts were covered by
myriads of little creatures just hatched. They are very
small, similar to harvest-bugs, and as irritating ; for of
course, as usual, they attacked me fearfully. The men
called them “ carrapatinhos miudinhos zinhos,” or sort of
minute carrapatos.

It is now definitely arranged that we all leave this
place for Rio de Janeiro on the 27th, the chief having gone
down on the nth, and we are looking forward with the
greatest pleasure to exchanging the vegetating in a small
village for life in the capital. You may imagine how tired
we are, after some four months and a half of a very
monotonous existence, which maybe summed up as follows:
walking up the village to the office at 8 or 8.30, returning

174

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

at 5 or 5.30, having been home for breakfast about mid-
day ; invariably seeing the one-eyed Francisco sitting
on his doorstep, eternally nursing one of his half-dozen
cats or kittens, and occasionally talking to one or more
neighbours ; generally passing Padi'e Pinto on his balcony,
who always asks me to go in and have coffee, which I
am compelled to do periodically, so as not to affront
the poor old man, and his one topic of conversation is the

“ criacao de porcos,” or breeding of pigs ; continually

meeting the same familiar faces, making the same ever-
lasting bows, and saying the same words. Then, on
Sunday I am expected every week to make a round of
visits, and John Baptist feels affronted if I don’t go there,
generally to dinner, which, being at 3 p.m., spoils my

appetite for my own dinner at 6.30, and I cannot get

anything to eat later in the evening. In the morning the
cold, with a penetrating mist, is so great I don’t care to
go out early, even if I have the energy, and the sun setting
shortly after we leave the office, one cannot walk then ;
besides which, weary with the daily work, one is glad to
rest till dinner is ready, and the evening is spent either
in writing, reading, or talking with some of the various
members of the staff, or all of them, who drop in. Occa-
sionally we vary the monotony with some pleasing game,
using coffee berries or maize for counters. Such a life is
little more than vegetating.

Another reason for wishing to get away is the cold,
early and late. The thermometer for some five or six
consecutive nights has been below freezing point, some-
times five or six degrees. To-day, though cloudless sun-
shine, there were cold southerly breezes, and every one was
going about in heavy greatcoats, with their heads buried
in their collars. They wondered at me, a northerner, for

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

175

feeling the cold ; but I explained that although in England
it was often much colder in November, answering to May
here, yet the days were also cold, and so one becomes
accustomed to it, never having in our climate a grilling
tropical sun with cloudless sky in winter, and the other
extreme of cold at night, with a difference of some 8o°
Fahr. in the temperature of midday and midnight. To-
night, after dinner, sitting in my large bare mud-floored,
mud-walled room, my hands and feet were cold as ice,
and at 6.30 p.m. the thermometer in the garden stood at
37°, with a cold air ; in the room it was 50°. How I
long for a good red fire to sit beside and place my feet
near !

I have read with great interest Mr. Hammond’s letter
in the Times of the 19th of April on Brazilian railways.
He certainly takes a pessimist view, and appears to have
some private grievance, for “ toute verite n’est pas bonne a
dire ; ” at least, in such an abrupt manner.

Being Ascension Day, I did not do much at the office,
but went to Mass, and watched the people for the last time
here. The women and girls all begin to flock to church
long before the hour of service, and soon fill up the nave,
while the men only go in at the last moment. There is
always a continuous stream of the gentler sex past my
door — fine young negresses, with brilliant handkerchiefs
round their heads, dressed in bright yellow, red, blue, or
green, print or muslin, gowns ; some of them have shawls
also of vividly contrasting hues. Nearly all the white or
whitish girls and women wear nothing on their heads, but
their well-oiled shiny black tresses are neatly plaited and
coiled up, and decked with flowers. Some of the richer
matrons wear picturesque black-lace mantillas, and a few
girls come out in the latest Paris fashions, with jaunty little

176

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

hats, ribbons, and feathers, and high-heeled boots. A
brief sentence will be enough to speak of the men. The
slaves and poorer classes dress in a variety of materials —
sackcloth, cotton, and wool. The gentry generally in
black frock-coats, white trousers, and black ties, with soft
black felt or round “ pot ” hats. I have never seen a silk
hat worn here.

May 2 6. — The great labour of packing up is concluded.
We had arranged for two ox-carts to come at nine this
morning; they did not arrive till 11.30. The work of
packing them was no trifle, as, owing to their having first
been to the office, much of the luggage had to be taken
out and rearranged. The natives do not understand that
it is advisable to have all the heavy luggage at the bottom
of the carts, not only to prevent crushing up lighter bag-
gage, but also to prevent the vehicles overturning when,
on these admirable roads, one side is a yard or so higher
than the other.

Having sent off everything except what we were to
take with us, we, in a body, paid a round of farewell visits.
I always dislike saying “ good-bye,” and in this case did
not disguise the feeling I had that it might be for a length-
ened period ; indeed, as far as I was concerned, perhaps
final. Poor Padre Pinto actually shed tears.

At 6 p.m. I saw a magnificent atmospheric effect.
There was a superb after-glow, and in the midst of the
crimson light was the new moon, with the faintest crescent
of shining white, whilst the refraction from the earth
revealed the whole of the moon’s surface in a dark green
tint.

May 27. — Up at 5 a.m. Thermometer 370 outside ;
coldest during the night 310. Very damp and cold; of
course, pitch dark. By six there was a heavy, penetrating,

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

1 77

chilling mist. After coffee, etc., I had to take a final leave
of some friends, give away some old clothes, say adieu to
my hideous old cook and some half-dozen of her family
mustered for the occasion, pack up my blankets, etc., and
was at the office by seven.

I may here mention re blankets, that during the whole
time I was in camp, and also during my sojourn at Brumado,
I always slept in flannels and between the blankets only,
the sole article of cotton in my bed being my pillow-case.
During my camp-life I always worked in a flannel shirt,
and also went for my Saturday afternoon explorations
near Brumado clothed in the same fashion, though while
working at the office I wore cotton shirts — never linen.
This means of procedure is most important in order to
avoid the chills of the early morning and the evening ; and
it is very probable that had I always worn a flannel shirt,
I should not have had the severe cough and touch of
bronchitis I suffered from a short time ago.*

Arrived at the office, there were further delays. One
of the two “ medicos ” of the town was there bargaining
about certain things we wished to dispose of, and so it
was 8.30 before the words were given, “To the saddle.”
We were five in number, having two servants to accompany
us to Queluz, and one pack-mule. I wore my native
heavy poncho, a sort of blue rough cloth, lined with scarlet.
My horse was a good one, and, having done no work for
several days, was tolerably fresh. After putting my left

* On visiting the Health Exhibition after my return to England, I specially
examined Dr. Jaeger’s health clothing. His theory is that animal substances
alone should be worn next the skin. In that exhibition he showed even
cashmere sheets and pillow-cases and woollen bands for placing inside hats.
My testimony was written months before I heard of Dr. Jaeger. I may also
mention the case of my brother in North-west Iowa, who works in flannel
throughout the summer heat on his farm, with the greatest physical exertion,
such as pitching hay on to the ricks.

N

i78

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

foot in the stirrup, and seizing his mane, I threw back my
poncho to enable me to jump into the saddle. I suppose
he was frightened thereat ; anyhow, he started off at a
gallop up the street through the freezing mist. My helmet
flew off, the cold air blinded my eyes with tears, and I
went tearing up towards the church, endeavouring to get
my other leg over. When this was done, I pulled him up
and turned him back, after going some three hundred
yards, thinking I should kill any number of children, who,
with their parents, were all out to see our departure, and
rejoined our party, who were splitting their sides with
laughing at my discomfort. One of our men had jumped
into the saddle and ridden after me, but only caught me
up as I was returning. I took it out of that horse during
the day, galloping on in front and waiting for the others
to come up, and before we had finished our ride I had to
spur him to get on.

Leaving Brumado at 8.30, we reached Suassuhy at 1 1. 1 5.
For the first part of this ride the mist hid everything, and
we passed through uncultivated land, which was only re-
markable for the canons, or “ barrancadas,” which I have
mentioned on going over the same ground nearly eleven
months before. Owing to one more wet season they were
much enlarged, and in some cases the path was really
dangerous, having subsided a yard or two. The mist,
however, as usual, rolled off as if by magic, and for a time
I luxuriated in the cloudless sky and fine views of the
valleys, and the ranges of Boa Morte and Ouro Branco.
We reached the bridge over the Rio Paraopeba at 12.30,
rested here an hour for breakfast, which we had brought
with us, and then rode across country through forest and
capoeira and scrub, with occasionally some cultivated
land, to the station of Lafayette (Queluz), where we arrived

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

179

by easy stages at 4.45. About half-way, in a charming
little dell, we met the postman carrying the mails to
Brumado.

I should say the whole distance is about twenty-six or
twenty-eight miles.

There are great changes in this place since I was here
on July 1, last year. The town of Queluz is up on a hill ;
the station Lafayette (so named, as also the next two
stations down the line — Buarque Macedo and Christiano
Ottoni — from celebrated statesmen), which last July was
in course of construction, and an isolated building, is now
the centre of a large colony of houses, inns, “ armazems,”
i.e. stores of “ seccos e molhados ” (lit. dry goods and moist
goods), etc. The principal building is the hotel we put up
at, kept by the brothers Martinelli, who likewise own the
hotel at Carandahy, of which they state, “ N’esto vasto
estabelecimento,” etc., “In this vast establishment you can
get,” so on and so forth. This hotel has only lately been
opened (since March), and is really replete with every com-
fort— furnished with an abundance of Austrian bent-wood
furniture, and even flat candlesticks with circular glass
shades !

May 28. — Went and had a long talk with Mr.
Hargreaves about our railway, the construction of the
Ouro Preto line, and prolongation of Dom Pedro II., etc.
He received us most amiably, and was very kind. We also
went to visit an Italian and an Austrian, Fenili and Negri
by name, who had been to Brumado a short time since to
apply for work as sub-contractors on the construction of
our line.

May 29. — We rose at 3.45, had coffee, and our train
slowly steamed out of the station at 5.5, a long loud steam
whistle having sounded an hour previously to waken

i8o

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

passengers. Reaching Paraopeba Station about sunrise,
the mists were just beginning to gather, but by nine they
were entirely dispersed.

The Parahybuna valley looked magnificent — its lofty
sides covered with coffee plantations, and the wide, tortuous
river rushing over its rocky bed strewn with countless
boulders, or boiling and seething in its headlong course
over numerous rapids. These beauties reach their climax
at the huge perpendicular precipice named Pedra da For-
taleza (the stone of the stronghold or fortress), which is
some five hundred feet high — a bare face of rock, on the
top of which is a forest, the trees looking like bilberry
bushes owing to the height. This rock is close to the
station of Parahybuna, and is the boundary between the
provinces of Minas Geraes and Rio de Janeiro. It was
the scene of a great battle when the Mineiros were strug-
gling for their independence, the passage along the banks
of the Parahybuna river being one of the most accessible
entrances from the province of Rio de Janeiro. The Para-
hybuna, flowing south, empties itself into the Parahyba do
Sul, flowing east, and the latter enters the Atlantic some
150 miles east of the junction.* Descending the Parahy-
buna valley for a long distance, after passing Entre
Rios, the railway ascends the valley of the Parahyba as
far as the Barra (junction) do Pirahy, where there is a
junction not only of rivers, but of railways. (See map.)
This part of the Parahyba valley is much wider though

* Parahybuna appears to be a “corruption of Parayuna , ‘a river rolling
black waves’ — at once a picturesque and remarkably correct description.”
Parahyba do Sul is so called to distinguish it from the province of the same
name north of Pernambuco. The derivation of the name from Para , a river,
and Ayba, bad, “would be an excellent descriptive name. It is one of the
most dangerous streams in Brazil. Many of those working on the railway lost
their lives in it.”— Captain Burton.

LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES.

1 8 1

less grand than the Parahybuna, but a dozen picturesque
and lovely views meet the eye at every curve in the road.
The hours occupied in passing through these two valleys
are the most enjoyable of the whole journey. The view,
at sunset, just before the last great zigzag — when we are
rapidly descending from the mountains to the plain, and
see our track a thousand feet below in some places — was
even finer than the last time I went down ; then the dark-
ness soon hid everything from our sight. At length the
lights of the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro are seen, and at
7.12, after over fourteen hours of the train, we reach the
station, are met by our chief and a friend, and presently
whisked off to Carson’s Hotel.

182

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CHAPTER IX.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

Carson's Hotel.

May 30, 1884. — This hotel is so full that, to avoid being at
the top of the house, I have taken possession of the only
garden room which is unoccupied. This annexe consists
of a row of a dozen rooms running back from the hotel at
right angles and at the side of the garden. In front of
them is a verandah, which keeps off both heat and rain —
and I much prefer these rooms to those in the hotel, for
they are so quiet — and, opening on to the garden, the eye
rests on a large well-kept green plot formed of a kind of
knot-grass ( spergula ), which here takes the place of turf.
This plot is surrounded by lofty palms, while the garden
is replete with fan and other palms, cycads, orchids, plan-
tains, dracaena, crotons, and other richly variegated plants.
Beyond these is a regular English kitchen garden, and
behind all rises the lofty hill Morro da Nova Cintra
(813 ft.), dotted half-way up with houses.

Before breakfast I walked down a fine street opposite
the hotel to the embankment, or Praia do Flamengo, which
skirts the bay. On one side of the broad road is a low
Avail washed by the water ; on the other, a row of lofty
houses, gay, picturesque, and bright — as are all the newer

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

183

houses in Rio — with artistic stucco ornament and bas reliefs
picked out with endless tints of blue, red, yellow, and
green. This embankment extends over half a mile, and
is bounded on the left by the Morro da Gloria, on the right
by the Morro da Viuva, beyond which latter is the entrance
to the Bay of Botafogo. It is these rounded “ morros,” or
hills, covered with houses and a church or two, which, rising
from the level ground and jutting out into the bay, form
one of the most picturesque features in the city of Rio de
Janeiro.

The view was quite Turneresque. Overhead, a cloud-
less sky and warm sun, while over the bay hung a mist,
through which the town and hills of Nichteroy were just
visible, though in some parts more distinct than in others ;
and on our side of the bay, the summit of the Sugar-loaf
rose high above the mist that surrounded its base, and stood
out in grand relief against the blue sky.

After breakfast we went into the town on business, and
in the afternoon, having had two boarding-houses recom-
mended to us, we took the tramcar to Botafogo and
inspected one of them, from thence walking to Larangeiras
to see the other.

The house at Larangeiras appeared much more shut in
than that at Botafogo, so the next, morning Mr. Large and
I, with another member of our staff, walked up to Botafogo,
and engaged rooms in the first house we had seen. We
then strolled back by the hospital (Misericordia), which is
a very imposing building, with a large circular white dome
that is quite a landmark. This hospital, with the schools
of health, anatomy, and various other buildings, form a
really fine group, worthy of the capital of Brazil. Walking
thence to the ferry, we went across the bay to Nichteroy.
This town appears to stand in somewhat the same relation-

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

184

ship to Rio de Janeiro * that Birkenhead does to Liverpool,
and is equally dead. The heat there, though nearly mid-
winter, felt very much more excessive than at Rio ; but I
am told that, as a rule, this is not so. After rambling about
Nichteroy, we came to Porto da Areia, one of the three
pretty bays that are grouped close together on that side.
Here there is a shipbuilding and repairing yard, but our
attention was especially drawn to a skiff in the bay,
anchored a little way off from the shore, the only inmates
of which appeared to be a large monkey chained to the
stern, who perpetually moved to and fro, as if fretting at
his confinement, and three small monkeys, which were
scampering up the rigging and over the decks, and anon
running along the jibboom, enjoying themselves in the
grilling sunshine. We had some slight refreshment at a
small cabaret, where the fruit and Rio beer were alike good
and cheap.

The view of the town of Rio from Nichteroy, where we
sat awaiting our return ferry-boat, was very lovely : the Cor-
covado and fantastic outline of the mountain chain formed
the background ; below lay the town with its many hills ;
then the Sugar-loaf beyond which rolled the Atlantic, the
ports, islands, a multitude of shipping, and a wide belt of
the deep blue bay ; while in the foreground, on each side of
us, were the house-clad crescent arms of this small bay ; —
the whole forming a beautiful picture, under an almost

* The capital is generally known by the name of Rio de Janeiro, but its
real name is Sao Sebastiao do Rio de Janeiro. The discoverers entered the
bay in the month of January, and, before exploring it, deemed it to be the
mouth of a river, which they named Rio de Janeiro (January), and on building
the town called it after St. Sebastian. Of course, the bay is a bay and
nothing else, though of such a vast extent that it is large enough to hold all
the fleets of the world. It contains some three hundred islands, one of them,
the Ilha do Governador, about twenty-four miles long.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

185

painfully clear sky, which once seen must long remain im-
printed in the mind’s eye.

Rua Farani 12, Botafogo.

June 2. — We moved up here to-day, and I am really
delighted with the house. It is at the end of a street, some
three hundred yards long, placed at right angles to the Bay
of Botafogo,* and is on the side of a hill, Morro da Boa
Vista (485 feet), one of the ridges of the Corcovado. This
house used to be an hotel,! is of one story, and approached
from the street by three flights of steps. There are two
terraces on each side of the building, with gardens and
fountains on each terrace, orange trees and kitchen gardens
on the lower, huge palm trees and exotic shrubs and
flowers on the higher, which is on the same level as the
house. On the latter are also grottos and seats of the
true Pompeian fashion ; while above them and behind the
house rises the hill, covered with glorious virgin forest,
wherein pretty marmosets play about, and the garden is
always full of lovely butterflies, some of which ( Ageronia
Feronia ) have a marvellous protective colouring, which
one would not dream of until one sees them raising and
flattening their wings in the sunshine on the huge lichen-
covered trunks of the grand palm trees. In front of the
house are two immense mango trees, their branches one
mass of lichens, especially one hanging species ( Ramalina
implecta ), sometimes two or three feet long, of a green-grey
colour. It is a curious fact that though the mango trees
are so plentiful and of an excessively large growth in Rio
de Janeiro, they produce very little fruit.

* The word means “ thrown into the fire,” and alludes to the fearful autos
da fe, when the poor natives, on refusing to be converted to the Roman
Catholic religion, were committed by the priests to the flames.

It is now (January, 1886) once more an hotel.

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

1 86

Now a word about the house. On entering we find
ourselves in a gallery, some seventy feet long by twenty
wide and fourteen high, with a bedroom at each end. The
drawing-room is a fine apartment out of the gallery, with
no light except from the six external windows of the said
gallery, so it is always cool. On each side of it are pas-
sages, off which are several good bedrooms, bathroom with
shower bath, etc. On the right side is a wing containing
more bedrooms, a splendid dining-room, some seventy feet
by thirty, opening on to a lovely garden, and also the
apartments of the owners of the mansion. The house is
certainly most comfortable and airy, and has everything
needful for the greatest luxury and personal ease, which is
so important in this climate.

After dinner I went down the street and sat on the low
wall which surrounds this part of the bay. The view was
enchanting. From this point the bay appears to be a lake,
as the Morro da Viuva seems to touch the base of the
Sugar-loaf ; whereas these hills, the one about 200 feet and
the other 1283 feet, are the sentries at the entrance, which
is half a mile wide. The vast pyramid of the Sugar-loaf
stands out magnificently ; to the right appear the white out-
lines of the Military College and the Lunatic Asylum ; the
row of star-like gas-lamps, extending three-quarters of a
circle, were reflected in the scarcely rippled waters, and I
watched the fishermen at their work. With bare feet, a
large stone on their heads, and a net gathered up in their
left hand, they wade up to their waist, and, when they see
a likely spot, throw the stone a dozen feet in front, follow-
ing it up by skilfully casting their net so as to enclose as
large an area as possible, and on drawing the net in they
generally catch, at least, one good fish. This process they
repeat with great perseverance, sometimes in vain, until

BAY OF BOTAFOGO, WITH THE CORCOVADO.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

187

they have a tolerable supply of the finny inhabitants of the
bay, who are incautious enough to come close in to shore ;
and while I watched them I was surprised at their success.
There are, of course, many others who fish from boats in
the bay, and also go outside on the Atlantic ; but they are
an independent set of men, very different to our own toiling
fishermen,* and sometimes the supply of fish runs short in
the town because the men have not gone out, owing to bad
weather.

Speaking of fish reminds me that I must mention the
pedlars, whose name is legion. Some of them sell fish and
prawns — “Peixe!” (fish) and “Camaroes!” (prawns) are two
of the most frequent street-cries — others have fruit and
vegetables. These pedlars always carry a long bamboo over
their shoulder, from each end of which is suspended a full
basket, and the weight of the vegetables is often so great
that it is a wonder how the bearer can trudge along as
quickly as he does. There are also hawkers of stuffs,
articles of clothing, ornaments, etc., which are generally
contained in a series of gaily painted tin trunks, strapped
on the hawker’s back. These all carry two pieces of wood
fastened together by a leathern strap, and, as they walk
along, they are continuously clapped together. Many of
the fish pedlars are Chinamen, the remains of a batch of
some hundreds who were imported several years ago ; they
have abandoned the pigtail and Eastern dress, and wear
their straight black hair very unkempt, with the ordinary
dress of Western civilization.

The yellow fever is now quite gone for the winter,
though this summer, in February, it was very bad ; there

* Since my return I have read some most interesting details of the hard-
ships home by the fishers on the North Sea, in Mr. R. M. Ballantyne’s very
pleasant work, “ The Young Trawler.”

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

have been no cases now for some time. Far more people
die of “molestias pulmonares” (chest diseases) in Rio than of
yellow fever. This is easily ascertained, as it is the custom
in the papers to insert always the cause of death in the
notices of the fact. The weather is delightful, and I luxu-
riate in the warmth of the evenings after the cold of Minas ;
but I think the chief fault that I have to find with the
tropics is the absence of twilight and the early hour of
sunset. The following is a table of sunrise and sunset in
Rio de Janeiro, which may be of interest : —

Sunrise.

Sunset.

Sunrise.

Sunset.

a.m.

p.m.

a.m.

p.m.

Jan.

I

.... 5.19

6.41

July

I

6.42

5- 18

9 9

15

... 5.22

6.38

99

15

.... 6.39

5*21

Feb.

I

••• 5-33

6.29

Aug.

I

.... 6.31

5-29

99

15 .....

... 5-38

6.22

,,

15

6.24

5-36

March

I

... 5.47

6.13

Sept.

I

6.14

5-46

99

15

... 5-56

6.4

9 9

15

6.6

5-54

April

I .. ..

6.7

5-52

Oct.

I

5-55

6.5

9 9

15

.... 6.15

5-44

99

15

5-45

6. 15

May

I

5-33

Nov.

I

• 5-34

6. 19

99

IS

• •• 6.33

5.27

9 9

15

.... 5.27

6.29

June

I

... 6.39

5.21

Dec.

I

.... 5.21

6-39

99

15

6.42

5.18

99

is

.... 5.18

6.42

This evening we heard the important political news of
the fall of the present (Republican) Ministry of Lafayette.
They have grossly mismanaged their home affairs, and
have been tottering for some time. I believe the last straw
which drove them out was their illegal act of the confisca-
tion of all the convent property, valued at about £2,000,000.
More than ten years ago there was a law passed to enable
the Government, within ten years, to take over all the
convent property, allowing the present members, owners,
etc., apolicies and their full incomes for their lives, after
which the whole was to revert to the Government. This
law was a dead letter, and had fallen through. Suddenly,

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

189

some four months since, the Government, not knowing
where to turn for money, determined to sequestrate this
property. One of the ministers issued a Commission, the
members of which went round the next morning to about
a hundred and eighty houses belonging to certain convents
in Rio. These houses are let to various people, natives
and foreigners ; and one of the tenants, a Scotchman, told
me the history. The Commission visited his house, and
ordered him to pay the rent for the month then due, and
all rent in future to the Government, and not to the
“ fratres.” He refused to do this, but was given a day or
two to decide. His lawyer said the proceedings were quite
illegal, and he then assembled a few others — Brazilians,
Portuguese, and Germans — who were placed in the same
position. They determined not to be in a hurry. But
meanwhile the convent folk had procured an order from
one of the judges, and directed all their tenants to pay the
rents to them on pain of having the bailiffs put in ; and
the Government Commission had said, “Pay up to us within
twenty-four hours, or we will send in soldiers to take
possession.” The tenants then went to the judges, pre-
sented their grievance, and asked for a power to pay their
rents into the Treasury in their own names, but, as the
property of those to whom they might be adjudged, leaving
the money there till the affair was settled. This was
granted, and the money deposited. Then came the fight.
The Commission said that the judges were wrong and
incompetent ; the judges and lawyers, that the act of the
Government was illegal and unconstitutional. A test case
was tried, and the judges gave sentence for the convents ;
and yet, after this, the minister went to the Treasury and
carried off all the rents which had been placed there, and
that had been declared in court to belong to the religious
orders.

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

190

This is but a brief account of a very serious business ;
but this matter and a public assassination which was per-
mitted by the Government will show you the rotten state
of things here.

The public assassination took place last January, and
the facts of it are as follows : — The editor of one of the
papers here had published certain remarks against some
officers in the army, and, hearing that they proposed his
assassination, he went to the chief of police and claimed his
protection. This gentleman harboured him for some hours,
and then said that as the coast was clear he could return
home. This he was very loth to do; but the Chief of Police
brought round a carriage, put him in, and sent him off.
He had only driven a few yards when the carriage was
surrounded and stopped, the unfortunate editor was stabbed
to the heart, and dragged out of the carriage by a band of
men in plain clothes (officers of the ), who then dis-

charged their revolvers into his corpse, threw the body into
the doorway of the Police Station, and walked quietly off.
The affair was well known to have been preconcerted, all
the police having been sent off to distant parts of the city
to allow the murder to be accomplished. There was a
great disturbance in the town, and crowds went to the
house where the Ministers were then sitting in council.
They escaped by back doors, and some are reported to
have gone on board various ships in the bay. All the
officers of that regiment, who were concerned in the deed,
were despatched shortly to various remote places. These
officers owe one firm alone some £8000, and there is no
chance of their ever receiving the money.*

* The Rio News, January 24, 1884, commenting on this assassination, says,
“ The punishment of a criminal who has any influence whatever is becoming
one of the forgotten things. ”

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

191

It is considered a disgrace to belong to the army in
Brazil, which shows in what regard it is held ; but, I be-
lieve, the navy is in a somewhat better condition.

June 7. — The Emperor having invited one well-known
and good man to form a Cabinet, he refused ; and then
Senhor Dantas was summoned, who at last was able yester-
day to select a Ministry of Liberals. They are all un-
known men, but I hope may succeed ; however, I am
informed the only choice is in degree of corruption. The
Emperor was urged to dissolve Parliament, but there is a
great pressure of work which must be dealt with, and a new
Parliament could not assemble for two or three months,
probably more ; so his Majesty would not consent to this
step. The late Ministry was thrown out on a vote of con-
fidence. They had a majority of two ; but as four ministers
voted, it was really a minority of two, so they had to
give in.

Our office is nearly four miles from here, and I some-
times walk there and back, which I could not have done at
Brumado, even with the mountain air. So much for good
food and Guinness’s stout, which I get here in perfection at
six hundred reis (a shilling), for a small bottle.

The insects of Minas were' loth to leave me, so I brought
down two jiggers under the sole of my left foot, which I did
not discover for some days. Here I have the delight of
mosquitos, which torment me “ some,” as the Yankees say.

The captain of a sailing-vessel, which has just put into
Rio for repairs, on her homeward journey with a cargo of
nitrates from Antofagasta, came up the other evening to
visit one of our fellow-boarders. He had lately heard of the
Pitcairn Islanders, whom he visited some years ago. John
Adam’s descendants have all died out, but Christiansen’s

192

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

remain. The population numbers seventy-six ; and they
all intermarry, with the result that every year insanity
increases on the island.

I was told last night of the proposal to construct a rail-
way tunnel under the bay from this city to Nichteroy.
Mr. Barlow, of Westminster, is the engineer. It is pro-
posed to lay some two miles of iron tubes in the silt of the
bay, at a cost of £ 2,000,000 . The scheme is well thought
of, especially as water-pipes could be laid through the
tunnel, and Nichteroy much needs a supply of good water.
The gross annual receipts of the ferry are $45,000, and the
tunnel would afford through railway communication with
Santos, opening up a rich coffee-growing country. The
Government, however, would not guarantee the interest, as
they do not consider it a necessity ; but they have granted
a concession for a long period.*

How I wish I could send home a case of Bahia oranges !
But they would not stand the carriage. These oranges
are about six inches in diameter, with thin skin, no pips,
very luscious, and replete with juice ; they are most re-
freshing. Talking of fruit, I may mention that, at least,
in this expensive town, my luncheon is cheap, as I can
obtain a tumbler of good rough red wine, a roll, and half
a dozen bananas for sixpence.

I must now describe a bull-fight, which I witnessed
with Mr. Large, on the 12th of June. The season began
on Whitsun Day (June 1), and bull-fights are held every
Sunday and on Holy Days. I was very anxious to see
one, as they are one of the principal amusements here,
besides, of course, the theatres. Though I had been told

* From news received at the end of October (1884), it appears the President
of tire Province of Rio de Janeiro has granted a guarantee of six per cent, on a
capital of half a million to a company for supplying Nichteroy with water.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

193

that the Brazilian bull-fights are very tame as compared
with those in Spain, yet I was unprepared for such an
utter fiasco as the affair turned out. Hearing that the
ground was not far from our office, Mr. Large and I
decided to walk there, and not take a tram ; but, being
misdirected, we lost some time in finding the locality. At
last, however, we came to the place. The entrance was
crowded, and a large banner was hung across the street,
on which was the figure of a bull, with lowered head and
swishing tail, and the words, “To-day, a fight of large
and savage bulls.” There was also a great display of
bunting. We entered through a gateway under a house,
and went into a field, where a wooden amphitheatre or
circus was erected. There were two prices for the tickets
— “sol” (sunshine), $2, and “ sombra ” (shade), $3. We
selected the shade, and then nerved ourselves for the
sanguinary scene by a bottle of excellent iced national
beer, at only two and a half times the ordinary price. We
arrived at 4.20, and the affair was to begin at 4.30, but the
band was already playing.

On entering we found rows of wooden seats in tiers
all round the circus, with a barrier half-way across, reaching
to the inner ring. On one side of this barrier were the
82 seats, on the other side the S3. As half the S2 seats
were in the shade, we saw that we might have saved $1
a-piece, which we much regretted not having done. In
the middle of the S2 seats was a platform, with a railed
hole, surrounded by men with goads, who lifted up certain
internal doors, and then opened others on to the arena to
admit the savage (?) animals. This space, which was, of
course, spread with sand, was surrounded by boards about
breast high, outside which was a ring some four feet wide
for the men to vault into when pursued.

o

194

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Precisely at 4.30 — and the only praiseworthy occurrence
was this punctuality — some wooden gates near the bulls’
entrance were opened, and a horseman appeared, announced
by a great fanfare of trumpets, followed by eight torreadors
in fantastic and picturesque dress, with purple cloaks.
After advancing and bowing to two or three somebodies in
the only private box, the gallant equestrian rode round the
arena, facing the audience, which I should say numbered
some five or six hundred men, women, and children, of all
ages. After this, four of the torreadors vaulted into the
outer ring, while the others remained with the horseman
in the arena. The “ cabalheiro ” then retired, returning
immediately on another horse. With a renewed flourish
of trumpets the door was thrown open, and the furious
bull came out. Walking quietly, he suddenly beheld the
horse, and went for him, lowering his well-padded horns.
But the horse did not like it, and, rearing, took a step back
on his hind legs. The horseman was thrown, and imme-
diately vaulted over the boards ; then the four torreadors
rushed after the horse, who was careering round and round,
while the bull stood quietly in the midst gazing at the
audience. The intrepid rider once more mounted, the bull
repeated his charge, the horse rolled over with the man
under him, and the bull jumped over them both. The man
again vaulted into the ring, and the bull and the horse had a
little game by themselves, racing at full speed round and
round the arena. This amusement was ended by a torre-
ador waving his faded purple cloak before the bull. The
cabalheiro mounted for the third time, and rode away.
So closed scene 1 of the first act.

Then came the playful dodge of placing the “ban-
deiras ” — little sticks about a foot long, decorated with
various coloured ribbons — into the bull’s hump. A torre-

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

195

ador took a bandeira (barbed with a small and imper-
ceptible dart) in each hand, and, holding his arms extended,
brandished the sticks with their streaming ribbons before
the bull, trying to induce him to advance. The orthodox
plan is for the bull to make for the man, and when he
lowers his head, the torreador should stick the two ban-
deiras into his hump and then turn nimbly aside to avoid
being tossed. This dodge was more or less successful with
bull No. 1 — generally less. The bull knew the trick of
old, and, though he was somewhat “ game,” he was also
wily, and would not always come up to the scratch. He
did not, however, mind half a dozen barbs in his back, while
some of the other bulls danced about, trying to throw off
the darts.

Next came a little “cloak work” — waving the purple
cloak in front of the bull, waiting his charge, and then,
stepping on one side, letting the bull run against the cloak.
Then the eight torreadors advanced, and one of them,
rushing at the bull, jumped between his horns. The bull
tossed his head up and down, but the man, being firmly
wedged between the horns, could not be thrown off. The
other seven men surrounded the animal, held his head
down, twisted his tail round like the handle of a barrel-
organ, and finally took the man off. The door then
opened, two tame bullocks, with bells round their necks,
came in, and bull No. 1 gracefully retired with his brethren.

Bull No. 2, a frisky white one, next entered. The dart
dodge and cloak game went on for a spell ; then the two
tame “ critturs ” again appeared, and No. 2 made his exit
as No. 1 had done.

Bull No. 3 followed. The same tricks were played on
him as with the two former animals, with the addition that
some of the bandeiras had crackers attached. The first

196

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

two of these were neatly stuck in, and the poor bull danced
about in the midst of fire and smoke, accompanied by a
terrific noise. The next two missed, and, beginning to
explode, the man threw them down and mizzled into the
ring. This he did three times, amidst the hisses of the
spectators. This bull did not see the joke of the purple
cloak, and backed from it instead of making for it. He
soon went the way of the others.

Then came No. 4, who was black and frisky. When he
appeared, all the torreadors vaulted into the ring, and the
bull ran about for a season. Meanwhile three men from
the audience, encouraged by the promise of a $10 ticket
each in a forthcoming lottery, volunteered to tackle him.
Taking off their hats and coats, they entered the ring ;
and one of them went into the centre close behind the
animal, who suddenly turned round on him. He had not
presence of mind to swerve out of the way, but rushed
helter-skelter across the arena, towards us, eyes nearly out
of his head, terror on his face, bull after him, and, vaulting
into the ring, sat panting and puffing amid roars of
laughter. One of the other amateurs then tried to jump
between the bull’s horns, but did not get far enough. The
bull put his head to the ground on the man’s stomach, and
desired to press the life out of him ; but all the attendants
rushed up and released him, when he also fled and vaulted
over, pale and trembling. Renewed roars and screams of
laughter resounded.

The third amateur tried the bandeira sticking, not wholly
unsuccessfully, and was applauded. Bull No. 4 then retired.

No. 5 followed. The first six darts were well placed,
then two crackers, after which four other darts. The cloak
game was well manipulated with him ; but the jumping
on his horns proved a failure, and he withdrew.

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

197

No. 6 was a delusion. He would not do anything, and
retired in disgrace.

No. 7 and last was very much the same as No. 6. So
the tame bullocks led him away very soon, and thus ended
the sanguinary contest with the “ large and savage bulls.”
It was a regular fiasco, and though I laughed occasionally,
it was not worth five shillings, except as an experience ;
therefore, I shall be in no hurry to witness this spectacle
again. I cannot see wherein the amusement consists, and
was surprised to observe many well-dressed ladies among
the company there assembled. According to the notices
in the papers of the different bull-fights, it appears that the
one I witnessed was an exceptionally good one ; so what
must be the usual performance ?

I would far rather be one of these bulls, who do not
suffer much pain — and generally one could see no blood
coming from the dart-pricks — than a bullock in an ox-cart,
working hard all day, a mass of sores from the brutal
conduct of the drivers ; a heart-rending sight which I saw
every day up country, when I was near a main road.

June 29. — This being S. Peter’s Day is a great festival,
and the principal amusement on these festas appears to be
fireworks. It is quite obnoxious to walk or drive on these
occasions, on account of the countless crackers and explosive
little bombs which are thrown about ; I am surprised that
the horses are not frightened, but they do not appear to
be so. The air above is full of hissing rockets and fire-
balloons, and one walks along expecting every moment
to have a rocket-stick penetrate one’s skull.

After church to-day, I ascended the Morro do Castello,
about a quarter of an hour’s walk. The view from the
summit (275 feet above the sea) is enchanting, looking
over the Ilha das Cobras (Isle of Snakes) to the Organ

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Mountains on the north. Nichteroy, on the east side of
the bay, looks quite close, and very picturesque with its
background of steep undulating hills. At the foot of the
morro are the brown-tiled roofs of the city, and from this
vantage-point one can obtain some idea of its vast area ;
endless towers, spires and domes of the different churches,
break the monotony by rising above the roof level. The
view, as I saw it to-day, towards the Organ Mountains is
really sublime. A cloudless sky above, the scarcely rippled
and glass-like bay beneath, dotted with ships and islands,
and apparently extending in every direction. To the north,
beyond the Ilha do Governador, the bay is bounded by
ridges of misty mountains ; while towering far above them,
and rising from a chain of fleecy white clouds, which
extends in a broken line along the whole range, are seen
the tremendous, fantastic, and jagged indigo peaks of the
said Organ Mountains, some fifty or sixty miles off, which,
though misty at their base and partly hidden by the
stratum of cloud, stand out in bold relief against the
bluish-white heat-laden sky.

It was simply perfection to sit and gaze on the lovely
scene, with the sun’s warm rays pouring down, and a soft
breeze from the Atlantic lapping round one. I sat for half
an hour enraptured, occasionally turning my eyes to the
specks of people in the Praga Dom Pedro II. below (near
the palace, the market, and the ferry), watching the
Nichteroy ferry-boats gliding backwards and forwards,
and hearing the endless crackers and rockets which are
sent off by day as well as by night. Then I went round
to the south side of the old battlements, which crown the
top of the hill, to see the view towards the entrance of the
bay. It is pretty, but nothing like the other lovely pano-
rama. One sees the various morros scattered over the

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

199

newer and aristocratic part of the city, which is the south
end going to Botafogo ; the very picturesque hill called
“ Gloria;” the Corcovado, with its lofty forest-clad offshoots,
like the arms of a star-fish or an octopus ; the Sugar-loaf;
and then the forts washed by the deep blue waters of the
bay, and surrounded by a froth of breakers upon outlying
rocks and a white foam from the waves rippling on
the islands or peninsulas on which they are built ; and
beyond all these the boundless waters of the ocean. And
as I gazed, the thought struck me that this water extends
to the wavelets of the Thames, rippling upon the banks of
Battersea Park and Cheyne Walk, within a mile of home.
This led to reflections which you can imagine better than
I can describe.

Reluctantly I at length bent my steps homeward to
Botafogo, paying a little visit en route to my favourite
Passeio Publico, and reaching our house at 2.15. After
lunch I went with Mr. Large for a walk round the Bay
of Botafogo. This is to my mind the most beautiful of
all the house-surrounded bays. From the Morro da Viuva,
wherein is a reservoir, there is a continuous line of houses
bordering the wide road, which is paved with setts through-
out, and has a double line of tram-rails. A low wall, as I
have said, extends along the bay, bordering a path, at the
edge of which is a row of shade-giving trees. On the
other side of the road, on the path by the houses, are fine
lofty palms and many other trees. The houses are all
well built and picturesque, standing in well-kept gardens
with fountains, and rich in many kinds of lovely tropical
plants and flowers, besides roses, carnations, etc. These
houses, among which are the large buildings named Hotel
d’Angleterre and Royal Hotel, extend some three-quarters
of a mile round the bay, where the street with its tramway

200

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

turns off at right angles toward the Jardim Botanico. We
continued our walk round the bay along a rough road,
passing a huge morro, or hill, which is being extensively
quarried for building stone. We examined in the sheds the
dressed stone, a kind of grey granite, and admired the
great skill with which it is chiselled into elaborate mould-
ings. We then reached a very fine building, the Hospicio
Pedro II. (the lunatic asylum), where three lunatics yelled
at us through the barred windows, which look upon a well-
kept garden surrounded by handsome wrought-iron railings.
We next proceeded to the military school (Escola Militar),
situated on a sandy spot between the Morro da Babylonia
and the lofty hill which culminates in the Pao d’Assucar.
On each side of .the military school is a concrete wall,
which prevented our reaching the Atlantic, that washes
the shore beyond. Here we had fine views of the Organ
Mountains through the entrance to the bay, and in the
other direction, of the curious square-topped Gavea or Table
Mountain beyond the Corcovado. Before returning, we
conchologized for the first time, and picked up a few
pretty shells on the sandy beach.

“ In the gloaming ” I sat alone in a Pompeian alcove on
the upper terrace outside our house, and gazed on the
warm colouring of the volcanic Sugar-loaf, seen through
the rustling leaves of fan-palms, and between the trunks oi
the lofty Oreodoxa palms, revelling in the balmy breeze,
listening to the rippling of the wavelets on the beach,
thrilled with the beauty of the scene and the remembrance
of such a day’s experiences. One day like this would be
almost worth while coming out for.

July 2. — I must mention the corruption and bribery
that obtains in all the Government offices, and the ex-

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

201

orbitant duties and warehouse dues charged by the
alfandega or custom house. It is a suicidal policy ; in fact,
as my informant remarked, it is “ the system of a miserable
weak set of people, who want ready money at any price,
without thinking of to-morrow.” It is opportune here to
remark that Exchange is now very low, per milreis

(par value being 2 yd.), which means, that as I leave by
the Valparaiso , P.S.N.C., on the 26th inst., and shall there-
fore have to convert my money, I shall lose about ten per
cent. I find it is the pleasing custom in this beautiful but
insolvent country to lower Exchange at the time of paying
dividends, in order, I suppose, to recoup themselves a
little for the same.

I have heard a good deal lately about yellow fever
from a friend who, last summer, had six cases in his house,
one of which ended fatally. This was a very sad story of
a young American, who had taken his passage home and
sent off his luggage. He lived at Nichteroy, and was in
the habit of walking about in the mists of early morning
near the swampy lagoons without previously taking either
a cup of coffee or any other refreshment, which is not only
unwise but almost suicidal. Falling ill, he was treated
during three days for intermittent fever, and went out.
When his real malady was ascertained, he was put to bed,
but nothing could save him, as he was most imprudent.
One night, having told his attendant to fetch some iced
seltzer water, which the doctor had ordered, the man on
his return found the patient leaning with his body out of
the window in the pouring rain. Eighteen hours before his
death mortification set in, his back being all discoloured
from the throat downwards. He died at 9 a.m. the next
day, and the funeral was to be at 4 p.m. The coffin was
screwed down, but the gases generated so quickly that on

202

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

lifting it to place it on the hearse the screws gave way, and
the effect on the olfactory nerves along the whole of the
road to the cemetery was quite awful. How fearful must
have been the shock to the poor man’s family who were
expecting his speedy return, to hear, instead, of his death,
and the painful circumstances connected therewith !

It appears to me, from all I have heard, that this fever
must be most loathsome to all who have to come in contact
with the poor sufferers. But it need not be dangerous, for
Mrs. Fairall, the owner of this house, who has lived in Rio
twenty years, and kept two boarding-houses in Larangeiras,
has had the fever herself, as have also most of her family ;
she has nursed very many patients through it, and never
lost a case ; so that the doctors are always anxious to get
hold of her, if possible, as nurse.

I received some hints about treatment which I may as
well mention, though I hope I shall never have to put them
in practice ; but an acquaintance of mine who had the fever
very badly in the summer has recovered, and looks in even
better health than he was before. It is very important to
take the fever in hand in its earliest stages — the first two or
three days ; the preliminary symptoms are headache, pain
in the back, with nausea and feverishness. Begin by
taking two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and drink iced milk
and iced seltzer, or soda-water, ad libitum ; but eat no meat
food. The disease is blood-poisoning, and the best medicine
is a certain acid. It is very important to keep up the even
warmth of bed and to avoid chills. Patients can be cured
even when the black vomit has begun, or when putrid
blood oozes from their skin ; but it is then a very bad case.
However, smallpox is more dreaded than yellow fever ; for
though the latter specially attacks Europeans, particularly
those who drink, or who are at all afraid of it, among

OUR LIFE AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

203

Brazilians it generally only affects those lately come from
up country. There is an antidote daily advertised in the
paper called “Anti- Yellow Fever Vaccination but I hear
it is all a farce,* and that Pasteur’s theory has not been
worked out on this subject. Some such discovery is
urgently needed, as there is no doubt the disease is a fear-
ful scourge. A Dutch captain arriving in port when the
fever was at its height was very nervous about it, and
within three days the captain, his wife, nephew, and one or
two others were dead ; all the crew went off, and it was
some time before a captain and crew could be found to
take the ship back to Holland. f

I am told that Dr. Bento (Brazilian) and Dr. King
(English) are the best yellow fever doctors ; the latter has
spent about twenty years in Brazil, and has a large
practice, but he informed me the other day that there is
still room for two good English surgeons in Rio.

* “ It is worthy of note that Dr. Maximiano Carvalho announces in the
Journal de Commercio , of the 13th inst., that some of the recent yellow fever
cases are those of persons vaccinated with Dr. Freire’s microbiosT — Rio News,
January 15, 1884.

t In 1882 the fever was very severe. From January to March, 10,000 or
12,000 died from it ; sometimes 150 per diem.

204

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CHAPTER X.

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

Ascent of the Corcovado.

July 6. — After church I went for a cup of coffee and a
little loaf to the Carioca Cafe, and then jumped into
a Larangeiras tram-car en route, for the Corcovado. I was
told by some Brazilians afterwards that no one but a mad
Englishman would think of going on such an expedition,
firstly, on foot all the way when a horse could have been
hired ; secondly, in the heat of the day ; thirdly, in top
hat, frock-coat, and Sunday-go-to-meeting attire. How-
ever, I did it. For some two miles from the heart of the
city the cars go southwards on the Botafogo Road, and then
turn to the right at a square called Praga do Duque de
Caxias, where are some very fine avenues of palms of a
great height. The cars proceed thence up the Rua das
Larangeiras, which is quite lovely with well-built and gaily
painted houses in the midst of most beautiful gardens, and
the road is lined by huge wide-spreading trees covered with
hanging lichens ; while between sunken walls on the left
of the road flows a shallow stream, which is crossed by
little wooden bridges to the garden gates of the various
houses. As one proceeds, the road winds about and ascends
slightly through a gradually narrowing valley, bounded by

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

205

two ridges descending from the Corcovado, forest clad
throughout, and with “ chacaras ” (country houses) peeping
out of groves of palms and clumps of bananas in clearings
in the forest. Leaving the tram-car at its terminal point,
40 metres (13 1 feet) above the sea, at 1.45 p.m. I began
the ascent, and, proceeding over a very rough, zigzag road,
reached the fine broad main road, leading to the hill of
Santa Theresa, at a height of 220 metres (621 feet), at
which point I came to the railway in course of construction,
which is being built by a private company, from Laran-
geiras to the summit of the Corcovado, on the central cog-
wheel system — also employed on the Petropolis railway,
which I shall hope to describe when I have visited it. At
the point where I reached the railway, it crosses a very
high viaduct on a steep incline ; the bases of the piers are
of stone, and the superstructure of angle and tee irons, on
which rest the girders (three spans, lattice), carrying the
cross girders and rails, a hand-rail being placed on each
side. Seen from above, or, indeed, from either end, this
viaduct looks very awkward, the rails having a very ugly
S curve — the cross girders being also laid to the same
curve — which is decidedly objectionable. The engineering
features at this point are the most remarkable part of the
line, as the railway, after crossing the viaduct over a deep
gorge, enters a tremendous cutting on a curve, with a still
stiffer gradient of perhaps one in five, the cutting being at
least a hundred feet deep. Leaving the viaduct, I walked
up this cutting and proceeded partly over the banks and
through the cuttings of the railway and partly by the road,
making occasional short cuts along steep by-paths, in-
specting en route the works of the railway and the well -
constructed stone abutments at the edges of deep gorges,
w'hich are to be spanned by girders. The whole route lay

206

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

through dense forest of the usual luxuriant type ; but the
palms, cycads, etc., and large trees are more frequent, and
the parasitic orchids and other epiphytes more luxuriant
than in the high country of the part of Minas I was in.
The birds, however, are fewer, and there are no parrots or
monkeys, except a few marmosets, which is not to be
wondered at, being so near the metropolis. There were
occasional charming glimpses through the forest of the
city and the Organ Mountains. At length I reached
Peineiras, where there is a “ chacara ” and a few other
buildings.

This spot is 439 metres (1430 feet) above the sea. The
concessionaires of the railway intend building a grand
hotel here, and founding a colony, to induce the citizens
and foreigners to live up at this place during the summer
instead of going to Petropolis, as this will be within an
hour by rail and tram from the centre of the city, whereas
Petropolis is considerably more than two hours’ journey.
It is certainly an enchanting spot, and magnificent views of
the Atlantic are to be seen within a few minutes’ walk.

On reaching the main shoulder of the mountain, the
Atlantic burst suddenly in view, and from this point began
the stiffest part of the climb. I gained the summit in one
hour and seven minutes after leaving the train, including rests
— tolerably quick, as the summit is 712 metres (2196 feet),
which gave over two thousand feet ascent per hour. It
was a stiff pull up, and, though shaded much of the way by
the lofty forest trees and tangled masses of creepers, was
intensely hot work. Every stitch on me was dripping wet,
and I should have liked a cloak to ward off the chilly wind
which blew over the top.

The summit consists of two rounded masses of bare
rock, walled in to prevent accidents, which would be only

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

2 07

too likely to occur, as on one side the mountain descends
perpendicularly over a thousand feet. On the summit are
many steps cut in the live rock, without which it would be
difficult to keep one’s foothold. When I arrived there were
three natives in shirt-sleeves and with long sticks. I
thought how easily they might go for me, rifle my pockets,
and throw me over the wall, a sheer thousand feet, into the
virgin forest beneath. However, they did not perpetrate
the ghastly deed, or I could hardly have written these
lines.

How can I describe this view ? It almost passes de-
scription. With a perfectly cloudless sky, the eye ranged
from the Organ Mountains on the north side, some fifty
miles away, to Cape Frio, seventy-five miles to the east,
and to a cape beyond the Ilha Grande, near Paraty, some
seventy miles or more to the west ; while to the south lay
the broad expanse of the Atlantic, whose ripplets broke in
silver threads upon the sandy shores, or dashed against
precipitous rocks. All the mountains on the Nichteroy side
appeared a promiscuous mass of dark green hillocks. The
whole of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro, with its countless islands,
was mapped out. At a dizzy depth below lay the vast
city; its numerous morros, or hills, scarcely appearing' to
rise above the plain. The Sugar-loaf (1383 feet) seemed a
ninepin. To the west — by glimpses through the rough-
and-tumble forest-clad mountains, among which are the
square-topped rock Gavea, and the Two Brothers — were
lovely scraps of the Atlantic and the cape in the far
distance, on the borders of the province of Sao Paolo. The
horizon of the Atlantic was lost in haze ; but on its blue
bosom were seen, as tiny white specks, ships in full sail,
and one or two steamers. I watched one of the latter, the
Advance, coming in from New York. It presently entered

208

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

the bay, and a puff of white smoke rose from its bows,
followed a few seconds afterwards by the boom of the gun
noting its arrival. Just below me lay the Botanical Gar-
dens and the dark green slimy waters of the Lagoa
Rodriguez de Freitas, its dirty and unhealthy waters con-
trasting wonderfully with the clear blue of the bay and the
Atlantic, from which latter it is separated by a strip of
white sandy beach. I could distinctly hear the pleasant
jingle of the bells on the tram-car mules some two thousand
feet below, and even the trampling on the hard setts, and
could just see the cars crawling along, like specks, on the
long straight white road ; but the mules were hardly
visible, or individuals either, unless they carried open
umbrellas.

I stayed on the top for three-quarters of an hour, and
then reluctantly descended through the cool forests, where
the sun was then hidden behind the mountains. I heard
the rushing brooks, saw the lovely waterfall, and an hour
afterwards was in the tram. I shall never forget this day,
and hope to go up once more before leaving Rio.

July io. — Our chief departs for England in three days,
so he gave a farewell dinner to the staff and some friends
this evening at the hotel restaurant, Novo Mundo. The
room where we dined is very large, magnificently fitted up,
and had a profusion of flowers and plants. The dinner
and wines were irreproachable ; it is the only elaborate
dinner I have attended since I have been in Rio, as, the
Minister being in England, I could not follow up my intro-
duction of a year ago by visiting him, and I have had no
time to make friends. The chief had engaged a box for
the opening night of a travelling English company at the
St. Luiz Theatre, and thither we repaired after dinner.
The pieces were “ Pygmalion and Galatea,” and a bur-

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

209

lesque, entitled “ Ali Baba,” * which were very well ren-
dered. The house was full of English, who applauded
vociferously, as did also the Brazilians who were present.
I met all the people I am acquainted with in Rio, and
spent a very pleasant evening, though I do not favour
theatres much as a rule, finally reaching Botafogo about
1.45 a.m., as the theatre was not over till long past mid-
night.

July 11. — Our good old ship, the Cotopaxi , came in
to-day, and some of us rowed out to it this afternoon.
Captain Hayes was, unfortunately for us, on shore, and
some of the officers are changed ; but we saw the first
officer, also the first and third engineers, and had an en-
joyable talk with them, telling them some few details of
our experiences in the wilds of Minas Geraes. I played
a joke on one of the saloon stewards, pulling out a roll of
Brazilian notes and asking for change, which of course he
would not give. I then begged him to explain to me the
English coinage, which he proceeded to do, taking me for
a Brazilian. My companions were much amused.

July 14. — To-day is the anniversary of the taking of
the Bastile, and there was a great meeting of the French
residents, who are very numerous, in one of the large
Institutions in the city, which was decorated lavishly with
palms and plants outside, and brilliantly illuminated by
festoons of lamps across the street in every direction. By
a most curious coincidence I was only reading last night
the history of the event — quite forgetful that the anniver-
sary was so near at hand — in Percy St. John’s “Miranda.”
As I sat in my room in the New World, reading once
again the story of that most awful revolution in the Old,

* The Brazilians insist on saying “Ali Baba and the Thirty-nine Thieves,”
which I cannot understand, as Ali Baba was not one of them.

P

210

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

I thought of the progress (?) of thought, and what now
leads men to revolutionize, and how possibly there may
be a mild revolution in Brazil on the death of the present
Emperor (long may he reign, as he is the one man who
keeps affairs at all in order), picturing to myself the pos-
sible disintegration of the empire into a confederation of
provinces such as obtains in the United States, etc., etc.

We are now drawing near the end of our stay here, and
I remember that I have never described the view from our
office windows. It is situate in the centre of the great
coffee warehouses, and every pound of coffee that leaves
Rio passes in waggons along the tramway past our door
to the docks, therefore the traffic is considerable. Our
look-out is, indeed, different from anything that thousands
of Englishmen in the old country see from the windows
of their offices or warehouses, where they spend the day,
often — alas ! too often — without any view whatever. This
office is a fine large room on the first floor, facing south,
but always cool ; whence, passing along a passage to the
back of the house, which is on the wharf by the bay, we
gain a magnificent view, bounded by the Organ Mountains.
The front windows of the office look out on a triangular
space, paved throughout, which from dawn till 3 p.m. is
dotted over by covered stalls, where the men employed
in shifting the coffee from the various warehouses repair
to take their meals. On the opposite side of the triangular
space are some dozen houses, shops, and cafes, one being
an English restaurant for sailors ; of one, two, or three
stories, only two being of the same height ; they are
painted red, blue, yellow, or brown, or else the face is
covered with glazed tiles in patterns. Some of the houses
have balconies, wherein occasionally fair damsels, or at
least damsels fair by courtesy — for some of them are black

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

21 1

as Erebus — loll about and take the air. Behind this row
of domiciles rises the Morro da Conceicao, Hill of the Con-
ception (154 feet), covered with more or less picturesque,
irregularly built houses, and crowned by a bastioned wall,
which encloses the bishop’s palace and the ecclesiastical
chambers. A few bananas and red-leaved trees are dotted
about, some twenty telegraph and telephone wires traverse
our triangle, numerous clothes-lines are erected on the top
of the houses, while multitudes of children — white, black,
and brown, both clothed and almost unclothed — play
about everywhere, dogs abound, and cats growl and fight
on the brown-tiled roofs.

July 18. — This evening our fellow-lodger, Mr. Hector,
with whom we have struck up a great friendship, brought
two gentlemen to stay here, Messrs. Hoffman and Latt-
man, of New York. They arrived by the Advance, whose
entry into the bay I mentioned as having watched from
the summit of the Corcovado. They are very pleasant
and conversable, and detailed some of the experiences of
their voyage. Going on shore at Maranhao (Maranham),
they visited the market, which they described as abomin-
able. Mr. Hoffman said he saw there the thinnest dog
that ever existed, remarking, “ You could see to read a
small-type newspaper through his body.” He wished it
could have been photographed as a curiosity. The feeding
on the North-American liners is bad, and it appears the
purser is not allowed, as a rule, to buy food on the way ;
however, being remonstrated with, he bought some fowls,
which were cooked. Some of these happened to be of the
peculiar black-skinned type which I have often met with
up country. They certainly look disgusting, though their
flesh is as good as others. Our friend, however, was upset,
and remarked to the purser, “ I don’t know where these

212

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

fowls were educated and brought up, but I guess they’ve
a dash of nigger blood. I reckon I’ll go out.”

July 20. — After church I again ascended the Morro do
Castello ; the Organs were entirely hidden by clouds. I
then returned to Botafogo, and walked with Mr. Large
up the Corcovado, by the same route as on the 6th, to the
viaduct, through the cutting, and some distance beyond.
Great progress has been made in the last fortnight in
laying the rails, etc. We returned along the line of the
railway to the Rua Cosmo Velho, at the upper end of
Larangeiras, the engine passing us on the road, drawing
a truck, in which, among many others, were two friends,*
who hailed us. We examined the station, the engines,
and the passenger coaches. An additional portion of the
line has just been inaugurated ; it appears that this farcical
ceremony is gone through over every few yards of rail
which are laid.

Trip to Petropolis.

July 22. — Deciding at 12.30 to go up to Petropolis by
the afternoon boat, I left the office, rushing off for some
lunch, and to Botafogo for a few necessaries. The steamer
went off at 3.30. The price of a single fare was $7 500
reis ; I could not get a return ticket, as these are only
issued on Sundays, when there is a cheap trip — $8 return,
first class — leaving the Ferry Prainha at 7 a.m., and return-
ing from Petropolis at 4 p.m. Before the steamer left,
I was interested in watching several canoes, of the well-
known coffin shape, plying from ship to ship, propelled by
one or two men with broad paddles from the stern.

As it was a cloudless day, the view was perfect ; and
when we were well off the shore, on looking back

* Mr. Colin Mackenzie and Mr. W. H. Glover.

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

213

we saw the picturesque town, over which hung a streaky
band of smoky haze, and beyond, rising into the sky, the
bold outline of the Tijuca range. We soon neared the
Ilha do Governador, and were passing among numerous
islands ; some, mere heaps of stones or boulders, or even
solitary rocks just peeping above the water; others with
a little grass and a few shrubs, and yet others with luxu-
riant vegetation, reaching to the water’s edge. Some of the
islands possessed one or two houses or cottages. The
Ilha do Governador, twenty miles in circumference, is very
prettily undulated, thickly covered with vegetation, with
numerous picturesque bays, and, I believe, a tolerable
population. On nearing Maua, where we disembarked,
the water was just like oil, and the waves produced by the
passage of the steamer were most remarkable, being a
series of very regular undulations with absolutely not
a ripple, there not being the least breath of wind. The
view looking back towards Rio was very beautiful — the
curiously undulating water in the foreground ; the Ilha do
Governador, with its deep green vegetation, in the middle
distance ; and beyond, rising clear into the cloudless sky,
the pyramid of the Sugar-loaf ; and a great part of the
Corcavado and Tijuca ranges, the former appearing very
insignificant. Turning on one’s heel, we find we are
rapidly approaching a wonderfully green, crescent-shaped
shore, scrub clad to the water, without a sign of any
habitation, and apparently no place for landing. In
a few minutes we see a stage built out into the bay ; and,
leaving the steamer, after an hour and five minutes’ run,
we find ourselves on a platform, where waits the train
that is to convey us to Petropolis. This railway, of a
metre gauge, was the first constructed in the empire ; but
for many years it extended only to the Raiz da Serra

214

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

(foot of the hill), whence, to reach Petropolis, it was neces-
sary to drive by diligence up a well-made, broad, zigzag
coach-road. The train was composed of one first and one
second class carriage, which rapidly became tolerably full.
The seats and backs are of closely interlaced bamboo, the
backs are reversible, and, being only about two feet six
inches apart, do not afford much room. Five persons sit
on each seat, and each carriage holds sixty people. Leav-
ing the platform, we proceed over low ground through a
flat, sandy, bush-and-thicket covered country of luxuriant
shrubs, entangled and entwined by thorns and creepers,
the monochromous vegetation being relieved by an occa-
sional bright spike of flowers. At 5 p.m., on reaching the
second station, our engine, which had been in front, was
changed for one with a central cog-wheel, placed at the
rear of the train, and then we began rapidly to ascend
by a grade of sometimes one in five or so, and so quickly
that I could see the needle of my aneroid falling. We
passed through the grandest mountain scenery, huge per-
pendicular masses of rocks, covered with trees on the top,
rising from the dense virgin forest which covered the hilly
sides of the valley. After a quarter of an hour’s ascent, we
had a superb prospect. We could see along the flat scrub
to Maua ; at our feet a straight white line, showing the
road we had just traversed, surrounded by hillocky woods ;
then the bay, the Ilha do Governador, the mountains
round Rio, the entrance to the bay, and the broad Atlantic
beyond, some thirty miles away. At 5. 30 we crossed the
Grotto Fundo, which, as its name implies, is a gorge of
a tremendous depth, spanned by a viaduct constructed in
a similar manner to that which I described on the Cor-
covado railway. Here we are in the most impressive
scenery there is on this line, in the midst of a grand amphi-

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

215

theatre, extending for three-quarters of a circle, surrounded
by the virgin forest, which is walled round by the most
fantastic lofty mountains of perpendicular rock, while
beyond the outlet of this majestic amphitheatre lies clearly
mapped out every detail of the picturesque bay. Just
beyond the Grotto Fundo is a masterpiece of engineering
skill, both from the boldness of the conception and the
admirable manner it has been carried out, though the sight
almost makes one shudder. The railway is carried in
mid. air by means of cantilevers, or girders fixed into
the face of a vertical rock, so that one can look out of the
window and touch the rock while gazing upon the green
forest at a dizzy depth below.

By 5-35 we had gained the summit ; and, again chang-
ing engines, left the cog-wheel track, and proceeded through
scattered houses to the station of Petropolis, where we
arrived at 5.40, having thus been two hours and ten
minutes en route. The barometer was at 27‘50 ins., and,
as we started at 30 ins., this gave a rise of approximately
2500 feet. The summit of the railway where it joins the
cog-wheel line is 100 feet (by aneroid) above Petropolis.
The air now felt very cold, and although the thermometer
stood at 65° (and it was 6o° at 10 p.m.), my feet became
almost as cold as ice. It is curious to feel this effect of
cold with the thermometer registering a temperature that in
England — and even lately at Rio, in the early morning —
is comfortable. In England such a temperature is warm ;
in Rio it is cool and invigorating. I suppose this chilly
sensation is due to the rapid change from the comparative
heat of Rio to the rarer air and icy mountain breezes.

Taking the hotel carriage, I drove in five minutes to
the Hotel MacDowel, now kept by Mr. Mills, an English-
man, where I enjoyed a good dinner, in company with

2l6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

a Brazilian lady, her daughter, and an English engineer,
Mr. A. Welby, who, as I subsequently learnt, is working
on a proposed prolongation of this railway, which is to
extend some fifty miles further. Our dinner-table looked
desolate, as it was “muita comprida” (very long) and
elaborately decorated, but with only a lamp or two at one
end for the four guests who at present are staying here.
Petropolis is quite empty now, being the depth of winter.

July 23. — A cloudy morning, but warm and pleasant ;
so I went for a stroll through the village before breakfast,
and then round the hotel garden, where camellias, azaleas,
arums, roses, and geraniums were mingled with cactuses
and other tropical plants and flowers.

Before describing my day’s walks, I must say a few
words about the town.

Petropolis, or the city of Peter, is so named because
it owes its foundation and development to the Emperor
Pedro II. It is situate 803 metres (2634 feet) above
the sea, and is the summer residence of the Emperor,
Empress, and Royal Family, and of the foreign diplomatic
circle. It possesses five hotels, besides restaurants, six
colleges and schools, three musical clubs, and numerous
other noteworthy buildings, besides having a complete
system of telegraphs and telephones ; and it issues two
journals, one bi-weekly 0 Mercantil, one weekly 0 Arauto ,
each of which costs 100 reis, or 2 d.

Many merchants and others live up here, journeying to
and from Rio de Janeiro every day since the railway,
Principe do Grao Para, has been opened. This mountain
railway was begun August 1, 1881, and opened in 1883.

Petropolis is supposed to be one of the healthiest
localities in the world, and it is certainly a unique and
beautiful spot, with great variety of scenery. There are

RUA DO IMPERADOR, PETROPOL1S.

LAST BAYS IN BRAZIL.

217

three principal streams flowing through the town, the Rio
Quitandinha, Corrego Secco (dry stream), and Rio Pia-
banha ; the two former flow in opposite directions down
the main street, Rua do Imperador, joining at the Praga
(square) Dom Pedro II., the combined waters thence going
off at right angles along the Rua da Imperatriz, past the
Imperial palace, which is in the midst of beautiful gardens.
After flowing some distance through various streets, they
join the Piabanha, which, at some leagues’ distance,
empties itself into the Parahyba do Sul, on the borders of
the Province of Minas Geraes.

The railway station is at the north-east end of the
Rua do Imperador, by the Corrego Secco. This street is
exceedingly picturesque. The two streams, though flowing
in opposite directions, form a straight line. They are sunk
some feet below the level of the road, bounded by retaining
walls, and crossed by numerous wooden bridges. On each
side the stream are grass borders and trees, a broad road, a
footway, and a row of good shops, painted with various
colours and prettily ornamented. Five minutes’ walk from
the station — along the street in a south-westerly direction
— brings the traveller to the Praga Dom Pedro II., where
are two small but pretty public gardens, with numerous
benches under the shade of the trees ; another two minutes
and we reach the Rua da Princeza Dona Januaria, wherein
is my hotel.

From Petropolis starts the very important and excellent
road of the Uniao e Industria Co., which, beginning at the
end of the Rua Westphalia (which I shall refer to later),
at the southern extremity of the town, proceeds by way of
Entre Rios to Juiz de Fora in Minas Geraes, with a total
length of 232 kilometres (145 miles). After passing along
the banks of the Rio Piabanha, the road follows the magni-

2l8

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

ficent valleys of the Parahyba and the Parahybuna (which
I have previously mentioned) to its termination. A service
of coaches runs every day between Petropolis and Entre
Rios, under the direction of Mr. John M. Morritt ; they
travel over this road, on which are many toll-gates, the
monthly receipts through tolls being about fifty contos
of reis ($50,000), or £4200. Our two American friends
have, within the last few days, made this trip, returning
to Rio by the afternoon train from Entre Rios, and they
declare that nothing can be more beautiful, or repay one
better, than this most enjoyable drive.

Now, revenons a nos moutons, or, rather, to my walk.
After breakfast I started on foot to pay a visit to the
Cascatinho, a celebrated waterfall some four miles distant,
having previously received directions as to the route.
Fortunately, as it turned out, I missed my way, so had
the pleasure of going by one route and returning by
another. The way I went is evidently not much fre-
quented, but is by far the more interesting and wilder
of the two. After passing the palace, I continued straight
up the Rua da Imperatriz to the end, when I should have
turned to the left following the Quitandinha, which is a part
of the waters that supply the cascade ; however, I went to
the right, and soon left all traces of civilized houses behind,
and, crossing a small divide, entered a narrow gorge,
called Gruta das Saudades (Grotto of Earnest Longings),
which was most beautiful, densely wooded, with a few
clearings and huts. Soon the ravine widened considerably,
and I was vividly reminded of the side valleys of Les
Ormonts and Champery, off the Rhone Valley in Switzer-
land ; further on, the scenery of Perthshire, or Pen-y-gwryd
near Snowdon, was brought before me ; only in these parts
there are trees on the summits of the highest rocks. After

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

219

a time the road, which is the Antigo Caminho de Minas
(old road to Minas), died out completely, and I had to
cross a broad burn, the Rio Itamaraty, full of lichen-
covered boulders ; and at length, by following this river,
in an hour and three-quarters after leaving the hotel, I
reached the great cotton factory, named Petropolitana,
which is situated in a wild bare spot in a broad valley at
the junction of the Itamaraty with the Piabanha, below
the waterfall of the latter, and surrounded by mountains
almost devoid of any vegetation except burnt-up grass. I
visited the manager, but being unprovided with an intro-
duction was not allowed to inspect the works ; however, I
saw something, as I had to pass through several shops to
find the manager, and I also looked through an open door
into a large room where were two or three hundred men and
women attending to spinning machines. All the machinery
is worked by the power derived from the Cascatinho, where
the Piabanha — which after leaving Petropolis descends by
a very easy gradient — suddenly dashes over some six
hundred feet of rock, just above the cotton mill.

Leaving the mill, I ascended by a private road towards
the main coach-road, and then examined the contrivance
for making use of the river. The waterfall was represented
— being now the dry season — by a thin thread trickling over
the smooth face of rock, the main body of water being led
away for about two or three hundred yards, and then
sent down an almost vertical pipe, some two feet six inches
diameter, to the turbines of the mill. I then gained the
coach-road from Petropolis to Entre Rios, and a splendid
road it is — broad, well made, well kept, with large heaps of
broken granite at the roadside every few yards, after the
most approved English Macadam system. Just after
reaching the road I came to a stone marked “ 9 K.,” and

220

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

was rather surprised, not thinking I was as much as nine
kilometres (five miles and a half) from Petropolis. Con-
tinuing to rise for about a kilometre, and passing some fine
rapids (Cascata do Retiro do Bulhoes, i.e. Cascade of the
Retreat of the Source), I came to a toll-bar. From this
point the road appears level, and follows the Piabanha to
Petropolis, winding between high rounded hills, whereon
the forest is more or less cleared, and the land cultivated,
with a few houses and gardens dotted about. At the
“ 6 K.” stone the houses become more numerous, and the
first bore a label, on which was painted, “ Rua Westphalia.”

1 then passed a tablet inserted into the rock on the road-
side, stating that this road was begun by the Uniao e
Industria Co., April 12, 1856, under the auspices of the
Emperor, and in the presence of his Majesty and the
Empress. Another few minutes’ walk, and I was once
more opposite the palace ; so I am at a loss to understand
to what locality the distances marked on the stones refer,
nor could any one enlighten me. The return journey was
very much shorter and easier than the outward, and occu-
pied one hour and a quarter ; so I arrived shortly after

2 p.m., and spent the remainder of the afternoon strolling
about the town.

Petropolis is a German colony, and the streets are full
of charming children, with plump rosy cheeks, flaxen hair,
and blue eyes ; while at every step you hear the language
of the Fatherland, and the pretty faces are such a treat,
after the sallow, thin, sickly looking white children that I
have seen for the past year. I bought a neat little walking-
stick, cut from a coffee-tree, and made by a certain Carlos
Sprangenberg, as a memento of my trip.

As I came off here in such a hurry, I had no time, as I
had wished, to obtain introductions to some of the resident

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

221

gentlemen, one of whom has a splendid collection of
orchids, and another possesses a large number of butter-
flies. However, my long walk was nearly enough for one
day, and as I could afford no more time, I must be satisfied
with what little I have done. At least, I am delighted
that I took the opportunity of the only day at my disposal
to have a glimpse at this lovely Alpine village, which will
long remain impressed on my memory as something very
un-Brazilian like, owing to its German Protestant com-
munity and the absence of negroes.

July 24.— I left Petropolis by the 7.30 a.m. train, Mr.
Mills and his fair-haired young daughter accompanying me
to the station, which gave me the opportunity of expressing
my extreme satisfaction with my brief visit and his kind
reception.

The morning was cool and cloudy, with much mist ; so
there was no clear view from the Grotto Fundo, the waters
of the bay being undistinguishable from the strata of the
clouds. From the bay itself only the top of the Sugar-loaf
was visible at first, and as we neared Rio even that was
concealed by the clouds. By 9.45 I was at the office, and
employed the rest of the day in packing up.

I must conclude the account of my trip by a short
description of the drive up the mountain to Petropolis
before the days of the railway, in words, as is usual with
the Brazilians, far more poetic than I can lay any claim to
possessing the power of producing. “ The ascent of the
Serra da Estrella (Mountain of the Star) is of itself a most
agreeable trip, whilst enjoying the purest breezes of the
world. There is much to admire— waterfalls, cascades or
rapids, grottos, enormous rocks, trees of a thousand ex-
quisite shapes, and splendid panoramas over the bay are
seen every moment — so that the traveller, soothed and

222

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

enchanted by such animated and magnificent spectacles of
prodigal intertropical nature, passes over two hours without
knowing it, receiving every moment the most agreeable
impressions never before realized.” *

I had the misfortune to leave my little coffee-stick be-
hind me at Petropolis, but wrote on board the steamer to
Mr. Mills, asking him to send it ; and two days afterwards
had the pleasure of once more gaining possession of it by
calling at the office in Rio. Wonderful to relate, in this
city of extortion, it came down free of charge !

July 25. — The Valparaiso , which is timed for to-
morrow, has not yet been telegraphed ; and so, having
finished packing in anticipation of leaving Brazil to-
morrow, I set off with Bithell for Tijuca, another of the
places near Rio which every one ought to visit. We went
by tram as far as we could, along a picturesque though
perfectly flat road, lined by many handsome houses in
detached gardens, or large pastures with groves of wide-
spreading and lofty mangoes. An hour’s drive brought us
at 1 p.m. to Andarahy, at the foot of the mountain whereon
is Tijuca ; and, there being no diligence up to the village
at that time of day, we ascended on foot, under the most
grilling sun, along a very picturesque road, but, un-
fortunately, without much shade ; and at length we gained
the top of the pass, vvhere there is a stone with the level
35CTOI metres (1148 feet) cut on it. Passing through the
lovely village, we most thankfully came to an anchor at
Whyte’s Hotel by 2 p.m. After “refrescos” of lemonade
with a dash of whiskey in it, we telephoned to the office in
town, and heard there was still no tidings of our vessel ; and
so, while lunch was being prepared, we went for a saunter
through the lovely grounds. The heat was so great and
* “ Guia do Viajante no Rio de Janeiro,” 1882.

LAST' DA VS IN BRAZIL.

223

the time at our disposal so short that we were not tempted
to ascend the alluring mountain Bico do Papagaio, so called
from its two peaks presenting the appearance of a parrot’s
beak, which towered into the cloudless sky on our right ;
so we strolled up the stream, visiting the neat little bathing-
places for men and for women. In the former a Scotchman
met his death a short time since. He had just arrived from
England, and was staying at the hotel, when one morning,
after taking some medicine, he very foolishly went to bathe,
and was discovered in the bath dead from apoplexy. The
baths are over-shadowed by clumps of my favourite bamboo ;
the water of the stream flows through cemented tanks,
which have steps descending from the dressing-sheds. In
the ladies’ portion, higher up the stream, is a small shallow
tank for children. We then returned, plucking sweet
violets on our way, to the hotel, where there are at present
no visitors, and amused ourselves by overhauling the
visitor’s book, where I read the following entry: “January,
187 9, Queensbury ; Captain Brough, R.M.S. Britannia
(Pacific) ; Sir Beaumont and Lady Florence Dixie, Bosworth
Park, Leicestershire ; Lord James Douglas.”

I admired the scenery here even more than that of
Petropolis, and yearned to be able to remain longer ; but it
could not be, so after lunch we caught a diligence and
drove back to the tram. We were, of course, outside the
vehicle, and at such a height above the mules, which
galloped along very rapidly, that on turning the abrupt
corners of the zigzag road it was with some difficulty we
kept our seats.

The highest point in the Tijuca range is 1025 metres
(3362 feet). There are some twenty places of interest
which should be visited, among them the celebrated
Chinese view, whence is a beautiful bird’s-eye view of the

224

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Corcovado, the Sugar-loaf, and the entrance to the Bay of
Rio. The Pedra da Gavea is also very well seen from this
neighbourhood ; but from its extraordinary shape it is an
object of interest from every point of view.

July 26. — We visited the waterworks called Reserva-
torio Dom Pedro II., situate on the Morro do Pedregulho
(Hill of .Gravel), driving thither by tram along the St.
Christovao (St. Christopher) route, about three-quarters of
an hour out, partly along the road to.Tijuca. It was again
a grilling and cloudless day, and so from the Reservoir
grounds, which are well kept, we had a beautiful view of
the western portion of the Bay of Rio, with its numerous
pretty eyots and larger islands, all covered with trees and
verdure. I have now seen the bay from many points, and
at each place find fresh beauties in the ever-varying fore-
ground, though the wondrous gigantic Organs always form
the background. It would be pleasant, indeed, to spend
a month cruising about the bay, which is about one hundred
miles in circumference, visiting the different islands, and
making excursions to some of the many hilltops.

The large covered distributing reservoir was empty and
being cleaned out, so we were able to see it. It was
begun in December, 1876, and completed in May, 1880,
Its dimensions are 102 metres (334 feet) by 82 metres
(31 1 feet) by 5 metres (16 feet) deep, and the capacity
8,800,000 gallons.* It is roofed by a series of twenty
segmental brick arches. Situate 147 feet above the sea,
it is supplied by the waters of the rivers Ouro and
St. Antonio, which come a distance of thirty-two miles,
and flow through syphons into the small receiving re-
servoir at 180 feet above the sea. A new reservoir, about
the same size as the existing one, is in course of con-

* Condensed from “ Guia do Viajante no Rio de Janiero.”

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

225

struction ; all the shafts, on which rest the vaulted brick
arches- of the roof, are of solid stone.

July 27. — I made my second ascent of the Corcovado ;
but this time I was not alone, being accompanied by
Mr. Large, Mr. Hector, and the two American gentlemen.
Instead of going by the Larangeiras route, we went into
town, and then under the celebrated aqueduct, along the
Rua do Riachuelo to the Plano Inclinado, or steep tram-
way, up the Morro de Sta. Theresa.

The length of this line .is 561 yards, and the steepest
grade about 1 in 7. Besides numerous other bridges, there
is one fine lightly constructed lattice bowstring of 120 feet
span. The line was opened in 1884. More than two-
thirds of the route is double, and the cars, of which one
ascends while the other descends, are attached to a wire
rope, worked by a stationary engine at the upper end of
the line *

On leaving the inclined plane at 85 metres (279 feet), we
entered a tramcar that proceeded about a mile over a steep
and very tortuous road, by the side of the great aqueduct,
to the reservoir of Sta. Theresa, at 158 metres (511 feet),
enjoying along the whole route beautiful views to the north,
over the St. Christovao district, and that portion of the
bay which we saw yesterday from the waterworks. As
the tramway extends no further, we then walked along the
Rua do Aqueducto. Still following the aqueduct, which is
entirely covered in over its whole length, but has many
gratings to admit the air, we at last reached the place
called Mae dAgua (Mother of the Water), 306 metres (1004
feet) above the sea. These are the most ancient reservoirs
in the city. It is a little paradise in the midst of the forest.
A soldier, apparently on guard, glared at us as we entered

* Condensed from “Guia do Viajante.”

Q

226

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

a small but beautifully kept garden, brilliant with plants
and flowers ; and ascending some steps, we arrived at the
five tanks, into which flow the cold and crystal waters of
the Rio Carioca. This river, rising in the forest between
the hills of Tijuca and Peineiras, passes thence into a small
building at the entrance to the aqueduct. The cool air,
the rushing water, the music of the waterfalls, and the
lovely flowers were indeed delightful after a two-mile walk
under a cloudless sky, in the midday sun ; though the road,
broad and well kept, was mostly under the shade of the
forest. “ It is excessively poetic and enchanting to see the
waters of this renowned stream rippling through the lofty
forest, dashing into the reservoirs, and thence rushing into
the aqueduct.”

The earliest inhabitants sought for the waters of the
Rio Carioca, which enjoyed a great reputation among the
natives, for the supply of the population. The first canals
for conducting the river into the city were made in 1657 ;
the magnificent aqueduct, as it now exists, was completed
in 1750. It is some eight miles in length, and passes over
the Rua do Riachuelo on a row of two series of arches, one
above the other, with forty-two spans, at a height of about
a hundred feet above the street, extending from the Morro
Sta. Theresa to the Morro de St. Antonio. With the ex-
ception of the substitution, by the City Improvements Co.,
a few years ago, of one large and lofty arch instead of
the double tier, where the aqueduct crosses the street, no
alteration and scarcely any repairs have been necessary
during the 154 years that it has existed. The aqueduct
terminates in the Largo da Carioca, the square which is
the principal starting-point for the tram-cars to Larangeiras,
Botafogo, and the Jardim Botanico. Here there is an ex-
tensive fountain built of granite, the largest in the city; but,

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

227

unfortunately, its architecture is unworthy of the beautiful
aqueduct.

As long since as 1537 the waters of the Rio Carioca
were praised by Gabriel Souza, who states that the Tamo-
yos (native Indians), who inhabited the borders of the bay,
had a tradition that its waters possessed the virtue of in-
spiring their poets and musicians. It was supposed also
to have the power of curing melancholia and hypochon-
driasis. The word “ Carioca ” has many interpretations, of
which the most probable appears to be from Kaa-ry-og,
“ the house of the stream from the wood.”

Leaving the lovely Mae d’Agua, we soon came to the
road from Larangeiras, and I took our friends to examine
the railway viaduct. We then quietly ascended the Cor-
covado by the same route that I have previously described,
and were again favoured with a cloudless view of the
splendid panorama, with which all were as much enchanted
as I was on both occasions. At length, the sun being low
on the horizon, we were forced to tear ourselves away,
and, walking down in the cool, took the tram back to our
quarters at Botafogo.

July 28. — After having been in a state of expectancy,
awaiting the arrival of the Valparaiso for the last two days,
she really came in this morning ; but as she was supposed
not to leave till to-morrow, I had hoped to spend the
afternoon in paying farewell visits, which the excursions
of the last few days — when at length I was freed from
the daily routine at the office — have, of course, prevented.
However, we were informed that we must embark at 3 p.m.,
as the steamer would depart at four ; consequently, most
reluctantly, I was obliged to forego saying adieu to the
few friends I possess here, as they lived at some distance,
and went instead to the market to buy some birds.

228

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Though delighted at the thoughts of being so soon
en route for home, I could not, without mixed feelings, look
round on the city for the last time. Fortunately the day
was dull — heavy clouds covered the mountains, the bay
was a dirty green, and everything appeared dusky and
dark — so that I had not the additional sorrow of seeing
the lovely scenery in its most attractive light. But why
should I linger, and prolong the agony ? A steam launch
came for us soon after three ; we stowed our voluminous
luggage on board, and in company with Senhores Dantas
and Freitas, who have proved very kind friends, and Mr.
Bithell, we stepped off the quay, and were once more, after
thirteen months in Brazil, on the water. Adieu, fair Rio !
I have passed many pleasant hours in your beautiful city.
Shall I ever again set foot on your shores ?

Additional Notes on Rio de Janeiro.

During the two months I spent at Rio, being daily
engaged at the office from ten to five, with the exception
of Saturday after two, and Sundays, and the last few days,
I was unable to visit a hundredth part of the places I
wished to explore, therefore cannot from personal know-
ledge give any more detailed account of the city and its
environs, though I must briefly refer to the tramways and
one or two other points which came under my notice. But,
first, as it may be of interest, I will give a short account
of its origin.

Foundation of the City.*

The French Fluguenot, Nicholas Durand Villegaignon,
Knight of Malta, and Vice-Admiral of Brittany, who was
already celebrated for his exploits, desiring to propagate
Calvinism in the New World, conceived the idea of founding

* Condensed from “ Guia do Viajante.”

LAST BAYS IN BRAZIL.

229

in Brazil — the natural riches of which country were said in
France to be marvellous — a kind of independent sovereignty,
which might serve as a refuge for the followers of Calvin,
whose opinions he professed.

Villegaignon sailed from Havre, July 12, 1555, in charge
of two well-armed ships, which the Court of France had
confided to his care, and, November 10, 1555, entered the
Bay of Ganabara (Rio), whose shores were still unin-
habited except by the natives. He first disembarked on
the island Lage, at the mouth of the bay, whereon is now
a fort ; but, finding that island covered by waves during
stormy weather, he removed to a larger one, which now
bears his name, and on which is a fortress. Here he built
a fort, calling it Coligny, in honour of Admiral Gaspar de
Coligny, the protector of the projected colony. Villegaignon
was hardly settled when he sent a ship to Europe, giving
an account of the happy result of his expedition, and
begging for reinforcements. On March 16, 1557, came the
fleet, directed by Bois le Comte, nephew of Villegaignon.
It had arrived at Espirito Santo on February 26, having
left Honfleur November 19 of the preceding year, and
consisted of three fine ships, armed with eighteen bronze
guns, and manned by nearly three hundred persons, all
equipped at the cost of the Court of France. Two Calvinist
ministers accompanied Bois le Comte, one of them being
Jean de Lery, a Genevese, to whom we owe an important
work, “ Histoire d’un Voyage fait en la Terre du Brasil,”
printed at Rochelle in 1578, in which he treats of the
expedition, and gives curious accounts of the indigenes
among whom he lived.

Villegaignon received the new expedition with the
greatest joy, established an ecclesiastical system, asked
the clergy to preach twice every Sunday and once during

230

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

the week, and to have prayers every night. Thus the
French took possession of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro, and
soon gained the affection and friendship of the indigenous
Tamoyos and Tupinambas who populated its shores.

But King Joao IV., taking notice of this establishment
in a land which belonged to his crown, although he had
not taken possession of or colonized it, ordered Duarte da
Costa, Governor-General of Bahia, to inform himself
personally of the condition of the French Protestants. At
this time the monarch died. However, as news came to
the Court that the French colonists were increasing in
numbers and gaining more strength and more lands, the
Queen Regent ordered Men de Sa, successor to Duarte da
Costa, to expel them, sending for this purpose two war-
ships. The Governor augmented the squadron by other
vessels, which happened to be in port, and embarked
January io, 1560, picking up volunteers on his passage
down the coast.

Villegaignon, having quelled grave discords in his colony,
had left in a hurry for France, in October, 1559, and the
Governor-General of Bahia entered the Bay of Rio on
February 21. On the 15th of March he attacked the
fortress of Villegaignon, and fought all day, continuing
the fight at intervals during the night. The next day, in
spite of heavy fire from the fort, Men de Sa determined to
take the island, and, landing on the side of the Hill of Palms,
took it by main force. The fight lasted two days and two
nights, with many acts of valour on both sides. At length
the French, being without powder or water, were conquered,
and, retiring by night in their canoes, repaired to the main-
land. Over a thousand natives were allied with'the French,
while the Portuguese numbered only a hundred and twenty,
with one hundred and forty natives. “ If this victory did

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

231

not so much concern myself,” said De Sa, “ I would affirm
that there will be many years without its equal between
Christians.” Men de Sa, however, being unable to retain
the island, demolished the fort and left for Bahia.

The Portuguese armada having retired, the French
returned to the island, rebuilt the fort, and continued to
reside there, and as soon as other ships arrived with more
people, there being no longer any one to hinder fresh
buildings, they fortified themselves on terra jirma more
securely than before. When this news reached Portugal,
knowing how convenient it would be for the Crown to fortify
and people the port, Estacio de Sa was sent with two
galleons to his uncle, Men de Sa, who was ordered to assist
him, with all the forces he could gather, to found a colony
at Rio de Janeiro and expel the French.

Estacio de Sa arrived at Bahia early in 1564, and
remained there that year while the Governor was preparing
the expedition. At the beginning of 1565, Estacio de Sa
left Bahia with his fleet, and arrived at the entrance to the
Bay of Rio February 6 ; but was compelled to return as
far as Santos for reinforcements, finally leaving the port
of Buriquioka (now corrupted to Bertioga) on the 26th of
January, 1566, and arriving at the bay early in March.
The chief captain landed the soldiers, and took up his
quarters near the Sugar-loaf, on the ground now called
Praia Vermelha. The troops cut down the forestand made
fortifications. During the whole of 1566, the Portuguese
could hardly maintain themselves in their forts, as the
enemy’s forces were superior ; and on the 15th of October
the French, aided by the Tamoyos, attacked the vanguard
of Estacio de Sa, but were repulsed.

Estacio de Sa termed his colony a city, dedicating it to
St. Sebastian, in honour of the young King of Portugal.

232

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Men de Sa, hearing of the embarrassed position of his
nephew and his need of speedy help, prepared a new
expedition, and sailed with it from Bahia in November,
1566. In passing Espirito Santo, he gathered there two
hundred natives, commanded by the celebrated Azaryboia,
who, after his baptism, was called Martim Affonso de
Souza, and arrived at Rio January 18, 1567. His presence
gave great pleasure to the forces under Estacio de Sa, who
were in want of ammunition and food. On the 20th of
January, being the feast of the patron saint of the city,
Men de Sa began his operations.

On that day he took the stronghold of Urusumirim,
but during the battle a poisoned arrow entered the face
of Estacio, who died a month afterwards from the wound.
“Thus he lost his life,” says Varnhagen, “in the same
manner as the patron saint of the city he founded, on whose
day he was wounded, and the symbols of Avhose martyrdom
became its insignia.”

After the first victory followed the attack on the island
of Paranapukuy (now do Governador), which was also
conquered ; the Portuguese then occupied the whole bay,
the French fled on board their ships, the Tamoyos lost
their freedom and became quiet. “ Never was there a
war,” says Southey, “ from which, such small forces being
engaged on each side, such important results followed.
Had Men de Sa or Nobrega (one of his captains) been
less able, this city, to-day the capital of Brazil, would be
French, and not Portuguese.” After this heroic feat of
arms, the Governor-General removed the nucleus of the
city from the neighbourhood of the Sugar-loaf to the
Morro do Castello, still under the patronage of St. Sebas-
tian, but added to that name “ of Rio de Janeiro.” He
appointed Salvador Correa de Sa, another nephew, chief

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

233

captain of the new colony, as he had taken a great part in
its conquest. The Indian chief, Azaryboia, who had like-
wise distinguished himself in the expedition, was placed
with his people on the other side near Nichteroy, and
Men de Sa, having arranged all these matters, returned to
his seat of government at Bahia.

The city to this day keeps a religious octave in memory
of the triumph obtained on the 20th of January, 1 567,
illuminating the public buildings, convents, churches, and
private houses, and firing salvos at 8 and 10 p.m. on the
17th, 1 8th, and 19th of January. On the 20th, the image
of the saint is carried in procession from the Imperial
Chapel to the church on the Castello Hill, the fortresses
firing a salvo at the departure and another at the arrival
of the procession, this ceremony being repeated on the
octave.

In 1583 the mortal remains of Estacio de Sa were
removed from the neighbourhood of the Sugar-loaf to the
Church of St. Sebastian. In the centre of the chief chapel
of this church is a granite slab, bearing the arms of the
house of the De Sa’s, with this inscription, “ Here lies
Estacio de Sa, Captain and Conqueror of this land and
city. Salvador Correa de Sa, his first cousin, the second
Captain and Governor, erected this slab. The chapel was
finished 1583.” On the 16th of November, 1862, the bones
of Estacio were taken from their ancient resting-place, in
the presence of his Majesty the Emperor and the members
of the Institute of History ; and on the 20th of January the
following year, were solemnly placed in an urn of brazil-
wood, which was put into a leaden coffer, this being
enclosed in a sarcophagus of stone, and with it the deed
of exhumation, daily papers, gold and silver coins, and
medals. The opening was closed by a stone bearing this

234

. A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

inscription : “ The mortal remains of Estacio de Sa, ex-
humed from this sepulchre November 1 6th, 1862, restored
to it January 20, 1863.”

The French, however, were not prepared to give up all
thoughts of gaining a foothold at Rio, for in August, 1710,
an expedition of five ships and a thousand men tried to
enter the bay ; but being repelled, they landed at Guara-
tyba, marched on the city, and arrived at the palace of the
Governor in the Rua Direita, in the centre of the town.
Again repulsed, they entrenched themselves in a ware-
house, which was bombarded, and the French compelled
to yield as prisoners of war on September 19. Their
leader was murdered by two cloaked assassins, March 18,
17 1 1. On the news reaching France, the celebrated
general, Duguay-Trouin, was sent to avenge him with
eighteen ships, which entered the bay after losing three
hundred men. The cowardly Governor fled from the city,
with some of the troops, and the panic-struck populace
likewise escaped from their houses to the forests. The
French entered the city and occupied the principal points
of vantage. At length the Governor consented to pay
Duguay-Trouin 610,000 cruzados (£54,900) and five hun-
dred cases of sugar ; and, having received this, the famous
French expedition retired victorious.

In 1762 the city was declared capital of the State of
Brazil.

On March 7, 1808, the Braganza Royal Family arrived
from Portugal. Those who are interested in the history
of Brazil from that period to the abdication of the
Emperor Dom Pedro I., in 1831, I refer to two exhaustive
volumes on “ The History of Brazil from 1808-1831,” by
John Armitage, Esq., published by Smith, Elder, and Co.,
1836.

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

235

In 1822 the independence of Brazil was declared, since
which time it has been a constitutional empire, ruled over
for the last fifty-three years by the amiable, benevolent,
and irreproachable Emperor, Dom Pedro II., whom may
God long preserve to the country, for whose welfare he is
so necessary.

T ramways.

The ubiquitous system of tramways in Rio de Janeiro,
and their frequent service of cars, is so excellent that it
would be easier to suggest improvement in the means of
locomotion which exist in London than in those of Rio.
In almost every street or square one meets with the tram-
cars of one or more of the four companies, by which one
can either proceed from one extremity of the city to the
other, or from the centre of the town to the most distant
outskirts.

The first line opened in the city was that of the
Botanical Gardens Railroad Company, inaugurated at the
end of 1868. The trams are always called “ bondes,” a
term I was at a loss to understand till I was informed that
the name arose from the simultaneous issue of the bonds of
a national loan and the tickets of this company, which
latter were used as currency for small payments. This
line extends from the Rua do Ouvidor (the Regent Street
of Rio) to Larangeiras, Botafogo, and the Botanical Gar-
dens ; and the total length of rails laid cannot be less than —
but may be more than — fifteen miles. The company started
with a capital of ^40,000, and soon made enormous profits.
I heard of one shareholder who, having originally invested
.£1000, had received in thirteen years between £ 6000 and
£7000 in dividends ; and on the company selling the
concern for £7 50,000, his portion added to his interest

236

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

amounted to ,£24,000 ! This is the tale that was told me.
Money is not made so easily now ; but I believe the
different companies pay well, and no wonder. They are
not hampered by the restrictions of a Board of Trade, and
the cost of materials and construction must be a small
item in comparison with what it is in England, as the
general style appears to be the use of a small flat grooved
rail, weighing perhaps twenty pounds to the yard, fixed by
screws to longitudinal wooden sleepers. The roads are
kept in good repair, except those in the centre of the town,
where the paving is in a chronic state of disrepair and full
of holes.

The two companies of St. Christovao and Villa Isabel
have likewise very extensive systems of main and branch
lines from the city towards Tijuca, to the Waterworks ; and
to the suburbs from which the lines derive their names.

These three companies are all of the broad gauge.

The fourth is the “ Carris Urbanos,” or City Rails, which
has a network of lines of narrow gauge throughout the
city, connecting every part of it with the three above-
named routes, but not extending into the suburbs. There
is also the Sta. Theresa line, worked by the owners of the
inclined plane.

The cars are all open, which is most objectionable
whenever it rains. They consist of rows of seats, with
reversible backs, to which one climbs by a continuous foot-
board at each side ; a roof keeps off the sun. There are
a few close cars, similar to those in use in England; but
they are labelled “ Descalgos e bagagem ” — for the use of
those without shoes, and for goods. The fare by them
is half-price. None of the poorer classes or blacks are
admitted into the ordinary cars unless they wear shoes
The line appears drawn at that point ; shoes they must

LAST BA VS IN BRAZIL.

23 7

have, though they may be clothed in rags. The cars are
always drawn by mules of a remarkably good and swift
breed. Short distance fares are unknown. Ordinary fare
is 200 reis (4 d.).

Water Supply.

Besides the very important supply from the Aqueduct
of the Rio da Carioca, there exist four large reservoirs :
that of Dom Pedro II. (which I visited and described),
holding 8,800,000 gallons ; that on the Morro da Viuva,
1,386,000 gallons ; that of Rio de Oura, 3,300,000 gallons ;
and Sta. Theresa, 660,000 gallons ; and in addition nine
smaller reservoirs. There are nine public fountains
scattered about the town, all about one hundred years old,
or more. These are well frequented by the townsfolk, as
also by the carriers who drive about the city with large
barrels of water, which they sell for a vintem (%d.) a bucket.
There are also, in course of construction, many ornamental
fountains, with large granite basins and statues ; but when
I left they were not as yet in use.

Passeio Publico.

This garden I was never tired of visiting. It was opened
in 1783, and contains many rare indigenous and exotic trees
and plants. For over a hundred years it has been the
most agreeable lounge in Rio, and, in my opinion, it sur-
passes the Jardim Botanico, though the latter is of far
greater extent, while it has the advantage of being only
a few minutes’ walk from the Rua do Ouvidor, in the centre
of the city. The garden is covered by the most luxuriant
shrubberies, and a tangled mass of very lofty trees, plants
and creepers ; these, meeting overhead, yield a continual
shade to the numerous winding walks which intersect the

238

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

garden. Many benches scattered beside the walks afford
charming resting-places, where one can sit and read, pro-
tected from the sun, even on the hottest days. There are
also extensive well-kept lawns of the usual knot-grass
(^Spergiila sp.), from which spring various solitary palms of
many species. A family of pacas (a fawn-coloured rodent,
the size of a small pig) and an emu (resembling a casso-
wary) live in the garden, the latter being very tame, and
not objecting to being stroked ; while on various ponds
live a number of ducks and geese ; and darting among the
trees, or lazily floating along the walks, appear many
handsome butterflies. At the further end of the garden,
bordering the bay, is a fine broad marble-paved terrace,
whence is a charming view, and whereon is a drinking
fountain, formed by the figure of a boy, who pours water
into a stone barrel ; beneath the figure is a motto, “ Sou
util inda brincando ” (“ I am useful although playing”).
This delightful garden is open daily from 6 a.m. At
night the walks are lighted with gas. There is also a
restaurant ; and a German band plays every Tuesday,
Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Jardim do Campo da Acclamaqao.

This is another of the squares worthy of a brief notice.
It is much larger than the Passeio Publico, but was only
begun in 1873, and opened in 1880, before which time it
was a public washing-ground. It is an exceedingly pretty
place, with various ponds, islands, and green lawns, and
reminded me much of Battersea Park, though, being so
new, of course, the vegetation has not yet grown to a great
height. Besides its lakes, covered with hundreds of water-
fowl, there is in one corner a very picturesque imitation of
limestone caves, with waterfall, stalagmites, stalactites, and
dripping roof.

LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL.

239

The Carnival.

This is well kept up, and lasts for three days, beginning
on Quinquagesima Sunday. There are masked balls at all
the theatres ; every one appears to have taken leave of their
senses, and I fear the proceedings are bacchanalian and
heathenish. There are processions organized by three car-
nival clubs — the Fenians, the Democrats, and the Lieutenants
of the Devil (Tenentes do diabo). Every kind of horse-play
is exercised. Numerous mulattos, called Capoeiros, dance
about and run “ amok ” with open razors strapped to their
hands, with which they rip people up in a playful manner.
The police are always on the look-out for these gentlemen,
and rush out on them with drawn swords ! The carnival
taking place in the summer, there is often much rain. I saw
one of the comic papers this year, which was sent up to
Brumado — the Revista Ilhistrada , a paper which, alas !
often turns religion into ridicule. In it were a series of
well-drawn sketches of the procession. Amongst them was
one depicting it struggling through a surging sea ; beneath
was the remark that this display resembled the passage of
Pharaoh’s host into the Red Sea. The final sketch was a
boy kneeling, with a serio-comic expression, grasping a huge
codfish, and underneath was written “ Lent has begun. We
must now welcome the catholic and apostolic baccalhdo
(salt cod) ! ” In Brumado, where I was at that time, there
was no carnival, and the priest would inevitably have
stopped any proceedings which the least bordered on
profanity.

Lotteries.

I must not conclude these notes without a word about
the public lotteries, which form a very important part of
the amusement of the people. They are tolerably frequent.

240

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

In June, 1884, for instance, there were “drawings” on the
following days : 4, 7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21, 25, 28, 30 ; i.e.
about three a week. The highest prize is from 20 to 25
contos {i.e., at 24 d. to the milreis, £2000 to ^2500). There
are also varying numbers of prizes of ten, five, four, two,
and one conto, of 800, 500, 200, 100, 40 milreis, and from
1800 to 1900 of 20 milreis. The object is the benefit of
the province or the town, some hospital or conventual
institution, or the fund for emancipation of slaves. I
believe a third of the proceeds goes to the cause. The
price of a ticket is 2.0 milreis ; but portions are sold, down
to one-twentieth, which costs a milreis. The drawing appears
to be done with fairness. I heard of many successful
individuals, among them an office-boy, who, buying a
milreis ticket, drew a prize of £50 ; and an English captain,
who had only that day arrived in Rio, drew a prize of
£ 200 ! The tickets are obtainable at all the kiosks, where
coffee and newspapers are sold, also in many shops, while
many bureaux exist solely by their sale ; and one cannot
walk a hundred yards without seeing little placards floating
in the breeze, “ Hoje anda a roda” — “To-day the wheel
goes,” — or to-morrow, or whatever day it may be. There
are also notices stating, “ In this office No. — was sold,
which drew such a prize.” The little newspaper-boys,
who cry the evening paper Gazeta da Tarde , never weary
of calling out “ Results of the Lottery.” As this happens
about three times a week, one soon gets tired of it.

The system may be objected to on account of the
gambling it induces ; but the Government upholds it, as it
brings much money into their impoverished treasury.

( 241 )

CHAPTER XI.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

July 28, 1884. — The Valparaiso steamed off at 5.50 p.m.,
and our friends accompanied us in the steam launch until
it was too dark to see ; then, with a parting, “ Deus guarde
as Vses. Snas.,” we bade adieu to Rio.

July 30. — I saw a splendid and cloudless sunrise. First
appeared a dull red spot on the eastern horizon, which, as
swiftly as the wire in the incandescent electric light, became
a dazzling white point ; and then the sun rose so quickly
that in about two minutes from his first appearance the
whole fiery globe was above the horizon. At 8 a.m. we
sighted on our port bow the French steamer La France,
which sailed from Rio three or four hours before us ; we
passed her about noon, and lost sight of her astern by
4 p.m. This was the chief amusement to-day, though we
caught sight of two whales, and by sunset saw several
small chains of hills and mountain peaks.

July 31. — Went on deck at six ; very dull morning. A
low line of coast close on the starboard side showed we
were approaching Bahia, and by 8.15 we had anchored in
the bay. The entrance to this bay is very much wider
than that of Rio de Janeiro, and the coast is surrounded by
low hills, many of them forest clad. We were, unfortunately,

R

242

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

unable to get a good view of the whole of the bay, which
is very extensive ; but the various parts of the coast were
only visible piecemeal — whenever there was a lull in the
heavy showers which, sweeping across the country, came
down incessantly till noon.

The city itself is beautifully situated, and consists of an
upper and lower town, the means of communication being
principally by a lift, or by a well-constructed inclined road,
supported throughout most of its length on arches, with a
vertical rock face above and below. The principal part
of the lower town is commercial, and very dirty and
malodorous. High buildings — stores, warehouses, and
shops — and narrow streets are the rule, though there are a
few respectable thoroughfares.

Walking up the incline we reached the upper town, and
there met a tram-car nearly filled with our fellow-passengers
from the Valparaiso , so joined them, and went out to Vittoria
along really good well-paved and wide roads, bordered by
neat and sometimes even grand houses in gardens, after the
manner of Botafogo ; but, alas ! we were unable to see any
of the lovely scenery from the heights of Vittoria, owing to
the torrents of rain. Returning from this suburb to the
upper town proper, we came to one or two places where
the gradient was so rapid that the mules were taken from
the car, and we descended by gravitation, the conductor
controlling the speed with his brake ; other mules were
ready at the foot of the incline to carry us further. I was
struck by the very dilapidated appearance of the churches,
and at length came to a square called the Praca do Conde
d’Eu, than which it is impossible to imagine a more
broken-down old place. In it are three old churches, and
the rest of the buildings consist of tumble-down houses,
generally two-storied, with grass and sundry weeds growing

BAHIA, FROM THE ROAD TO THE UPPER TOWN.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

243

promiscuously on roofs and eaves, and sprouting out of a
hundred corners and crevices. There is a row of large
trees on the four inner sides of the gravelled quadrangle,
but the place has “ Ichabod ” plainly written on it. During
the afternoon the rain ceased, and then it was hot. We
descended into the lower town by one of the numerous
very steep and narrow streets, and eventually found our
way to the markets.

The sable market-women of Bahia have the reputation
of being some of the finest of their stock ; but though I
saw several fine women, and some of a respectable bulk,
I did not see any special points of superiority over the
dusky beauties of Rio, either in the markets proper or the
promiscuous one formed by the continuous row of women
with their baskets all along the quay. I was certainly
struck at Bahia with the very great preponderance of
blacks over whites, but was told that it is called a cidade
dos pretos (the city of the blacks), and that out of a popula-
tion of some 230,000 there are only about 50,000 whites. I
noticed a peculiar form of Sedan chair made thus : An
ordinary wooden-framed cane-bottomed chair with a foot-
board is enclosed in a stout frame with a roof ; from the
roof proceed two long bent poles, which are borne palanquin
fashion by negroes ; a curtain at each side completes the
furniture of this superior hackney carriage. When I saw
the elegant machine, it was at rest under a tree, while four
attendant blackies were coiled up asleep beside it.

There was a splendid variety of birds and monkeys on
sale in the markets ; but a good-sized cage with about
twenty live toucans ( Ramphastos Ariel) was, perhaps, the
most remarkable object there, and well worth seeing. I
invested in two marmosets, which I hope to bring home
alive. They are common in the woods round the Corco-

244

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

vada, and at the back of our old house at Botafogo ; but
I never had time even to think of catching any.*

When I was in the market, I noticed the pretty French
lady (widow) with her little girl, who had come on our
steamer from Chili. We had often remarked that this fair
one appeared to have captivated by her charms a fellow-
passenger, likewise French ; at any rate, there they were
together, he busily engaged buying what she asked for.
They eventually came on board with half a dozen monkeys
and over a dozen birds.

We weighed anchor at 6.45 p.m., the La France ,
which arrived a couple of hours after us, having left at six.
I found on inquiry that we had shipped a tolerable cargo
of sugar, fibre (for mats, etc.), tobacco, and whale oil, which
was stowed away by a number of fine stalwart niggers,
mostly bared to the waist.

Augtist 1. — I thought the end was come, being awoke
by a few quarts of water dashed into my face ; but it was
only a little spray, which, concentrated by the ventilator,
had come in through the port. The cabin was well wetted.

August 2. — After a roughish and rainy night we reached
Recife, or Pernambuco, at 6.30, and anchored a mile outside
the natural harbour, which is formed by a reef extend-
ing from the mouth of the river along the whole length of
the town. There is a lighthouse on the end of the reef,
while a breakwater built from the shore leaves a small
opening for vessels to enter into the calm harbour. The
rough sea prevented my landing, so I could not form an
opinion of the town ; but many good buildings and churches
are to be seen on the fiat coast, and the north-east shore

* The monkeys survived through the winter, but their lower limbs gradually
became paralyzed, and one died the beginning of June, 1885, the other expiring
on Midsummer Day.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

245

extends two or three miles to a hilly and well-wooded
point, where stands the Cidade de Olinda ; from that point
the flat coast extends to Ceara and Para (Belem), near the
mouth of the Amazons.

I was interested at seeing some rafts, called jangada
(Port.) or catamaran. These are formed of a framework of
planks, on which are fixed three or four benches and a mast
with a triangular sail, which latter is taken down when the
men are fishing. These slight craft can stand any weather,
and have been met with two hundred miles out at sea.*

The rough sea caused considerable excitement in the
taking on and off of passengers. The company’s agent
(who had to pay £3 for his boat with six oars to bring
him off, though tugged by the company’s tender) was
hoisted on board in a chair slung from the davits, so were
also the three passengers who embarked here. This process
was by no means pleasant, as the boats were now alongside,
and the next moment swept twenty feet away ; one instant
nearly level with the main deck, the next ten feet lower.
The greatest excitement, however, was caused by the dis-
embarking of three men and two women into a boat by the
ordinary steps. Why they did not go by the ducking-
stool, as I called it, I don’t know. The boat kept dancing
up and down, and one by one the men, taking advantage
of a favourable moment, jumped in ; but the women ! it
made one hold one’s breath. The first tried a dozen times,
but always failed. At length, clinging to the hand-rail of the
steps, she was just being grasped in the arms of a man at
the bows of the boat, when lurch — away went the boat, and
she was left hanging over the trough of a wave for a few
seconds, which seemed an age ; then back came the boat,

* Small jangadas form the only craft allowed on the island of Fernando
de Neronha.

246

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

and she was caught round the waist. She had just time to
cross herself devoutly three times, and then fell into the
bottom of the boat almost senseless. This was repeated
with the other woman, but at length they all got off safely,
and I hope were landed all right, as I heard later of a boat
going in to-day with five on board which was upset when
rounding the lighthouse ; fortunately another boat was close
by, which picked them up before the sharks could get at
them.

I spent some time watching the long line of breakers
dashing up over the reef, and sometimes nearly to the top
of the lighthouse tower, and it looked so curious through
the spray to see the calm water beyond. We tried shark-
fishing ; but though we saw several pilot-fish, and the bait
was nibbled, Johnny Shark was too wary for the hook.
Sometimes when a bullock has been killed here and the
waste portions thrown overboard, four or five sharks have
rushed at the dainty morsel.

Before we had been at anchor an hour, eight boats came
out, and soon there was a regular market forwards ; cages,
bags, and baskets had been brought up, and there was a
fine display of pineapples, oranges, cocoa-nuts, sugar-canes,
ocelot skins, about one hundred parrots, three kinds of paro-
quets, lots of marmosets, and a coati. The vendors, who
knew how to charge, talked Spanish, French, English, and
Brazilian, and were willing to take all these moneys, as well
as those of the West Coast republics.

I was told by a ten-years’ resident (who joined us here)
that sugar is the principal export ; cocoa-nut trees abound ;
tobacco is grown principally for home consumption, though
a little is sent to Rio ; but there is no coffee. There are
very pretty drives in the neighbourhood. Pernambuco is
the healthiest place on the coast ; there has been no yellow

HOMEWARD BOUND.

247

fever there for eight years. Ceara is also pretty good ; but
Para, Natal, and Maranhao are each more unhealthy than
the other.

Pernambuco is the most northerly point in Brazil where
the telephone is in use.

Brazil nuts (so well known in England) are imported
from Para. The cost there is four milreis per one hundred
nuts, each of which contains seventy to eighty of the small
nuts ; and it is often a plaisanterie to give a stranger one of
these large nuts, and promise him so much if he can take
all the little nuts out and replace them again. It is said to
be impossible.

We left Pernambuco at 1.30 p.m. in drenching rain, the
rainy season in this part being from May to the end of
August ; but it sometimes begins in March, or even in
February.

August 3. — Fernando de Neronha in sight from eleven
to four.

August 4. — Crossed the line about 5.15 a.m.

August1]. — The sun was vertical to-day at noon, the
hottest day of the voyage, although we are in lat. 140 N.
Both my monkeys escaped to-day. Several of us who have
parrots or wee beasties are in the habit of spending much
time with them and taming them. I had one monkey
to-day on deck, secured by a long bit of tape ; by accident
I let go, and off he rushed. I feared he would go up the
rigging, or jump overboard. Half a dozen men were soon
in pursuit, and he was captured. Five minutes later came
the news that my other monkey had escaped. I went down
and found him comfortably ensconced on the main deck,
near the fore hatchways, behind a lot of bags containing a
few tons of potatoes, etc. There was no forcing him out ;
I had simply to sit and watch — only for two hours and a

248

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

half. At last he was allured out by a banana, and then, find-
ing I had shut off his retreat, he dashed down the passage
leading to the saloon, where he was caught.

Aiigust 8. — Woke at six, slowing down. Lying in my
bunk, I could see close to starboard the bare and wondrous
looking rocks of St. Vincent. Going on deck, I saw the La
France already coaling. At 7. 15 the Ruby brought us our
first lighters of coal, and the dirty work began, the first sack
being shot into the spout with the remark, “ One, as the
devil said when he had the parson.” Meanwhile the cus-
tom-house officers came alongside, and, though we had a
clean bill of health, quarantined us for coming from Brazil,
and set a boat with three dusky youths in it to row round
about us with a yellow flag flying ; no one was, therefore,
allowed to go on shore, and the agent not permitted on
board.

Two or three boats came off with some very expensive
shells, a couple of monkeys (from Africa, only £1 each),
some very pretty little paroquets (green, with red cheeks),
a few bananas, grass mats, baskets, and some poor speci-
mens of inlaid woods ; but the vendors did not have much
custom. There were also two boys who dived pretty well
for sixpences, and swam under the ship nearly amidships
for is. 6d. They kept continually shouting, “ Atira prata”
(“Throw out some silver”), and I think got about ioj. be-
tween them. The steward bought two large pails full of
fish from a fisherman, certainly a wonderful and beautiful
variety in shape and size and colouring. They charmed me
as a naturalist, and I wish I could have had a ichthyological
friend to name them.*

The little white-housed town of St. Vincent lies in a

* The price was eight pieces of eight, or Peruvian soft dollars, value
3-r. 4 d. each.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

249

hollow among hillocks, surrounded by sandy plains and
bare rugged mountains, with range beyond range of jagged
crags and precipices. The island has certainly a most
extraordinary mountain-in-the-moon-like look ; there was
only one little patch of green on a plain near the town,
while some way off, in the midst of a flat sandy waste,
is seen the lazaretto at the foot of another gaunt range.
Half a dozen passengers came on here, mostly connected
with the Telegraph Construction and Maintenance Co.,
and some rock specimens which one of these gentlemen
showed me were certainly volcanic ; but, looking at the
mountains from the bay, there appear the strongest
evidences of stratification.

The neighbouring island of Sao Antonio, which appears
but a stone’s throw, owing to its lofty mountains, is fertile,
but has very few inhabitants. From thence come the
fruit, etc., and also all the water, not only for the supply
of the steamers, but even for the town of St. Vincent. The
water is brought over the straits in lighters, and sold at
one penny per gallon. One ship lately had to pay £\o
for 1600 gallons.

At length, when everybody and everything is black
with coal-dust, at noon, we weigh anchor, leaving the
La France behind to see her no more, as she is bound for
the Mediterranean, and won’t catch us up. We take a
last look at the curious bay, and at the German steamer
sunk in a collision here some time ago (all we can see is
half her masts sticking out of the water, though I believe
she is to be raised), and then glide away past the pic-
turesque lighthouse, which is placed at the top of a rock
about the middle of the bay. The log registered ten miles’
run when we passed the end of Sao Antonio, yet the
height of the mountains and the clearness of the atmo-

250

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

sphere made it appear as if we had not done half that
distance. The Cape Verd group includes seven named
islands : S. Antonio, S. Nicolas, Sal, Boa Vista, Maio,
Santiago, and Fogo, besides other smaller ones. They
occupy a space of 150 miles north to south, and 180 miles
east to west.

Atigtist 10. — Crossed the Tropic of Cancer (one year
and fifty-five days in the tropics). Saw large shoal of
porpoises.

Augiist ir. — Saw the top of Teneriffe above masses of
clouds at 12.30 p.m. At 3.30, just after passing the south
end of the island, we sighted a French steamer close in
shore, and watched her, as she seemed to be making no
progress ; at length, when we came abreast of her, and
perhaps three miles off, she ran up the tricolour and
signals. We ported helm, made towards her, and then
spoke to her. She signalled, “ In distress ; engines broken
down.” We answered, “ Do you want help ? ” She replied,
“ Whither are you bound ? ” We retorted by asking her
name, and she did not give it, but politely saluted us by
lowering her flag three times, and so we parted. The
captain saw it was all straight, and that, being at anchor
and to windward of the island, there was no fear. This
little adventure gave us the advantage of getting close
in to the shore, so that we were able to distinguish two
considerable villages, and two or three fazendas nestled
on the hillside, although they were some five miles off.
The lofty and lengthy outline of the range, which slopes
up gradually from the sea, reminded me somewhat of the
view of the Glydrs, as seen from the road between Pen-y-
gwryd and Capel Curig, only supposing the high-road to
be the shore, and the slopes up to the Glydrs to be seven
thousand to nine thousand feet instead of one thousand

HOMEWARD BOUND.

25 r

to twelve hundred feet. By 7.45 we passed the light-
house at the north end of Canaria, and now go forth into
a stormy, pitchy-dark atmosphere towards Europe, which
will be the next land we see.

I noticed in Rio de Janeiro advertisements for emi-
grants required to go to the Canary Islands. This really
seemed to me too good a joke, to ask a country with three
or four people to the square mile to send off emigrants.
I know nothing about the place and its productions,
except a certain old-fashioned canary wine, which is to be
got in Brazil, and is called Canary Indian wine, because
from the Canaries it makes a voyage to the East Indies
and then to England, from whence it is sent to Brazil.

August 14. — Caught the first sight of the Portuguese
coast at 10.30 ; by midday the Cintra Hills stood out in
great distinctness, and we were soon amidst numerous
fishing-smacks, with the charming shoulder-of-mutton sails,
besides two or three wonderful minute and incomprehen-
sible triangular sails on the bowsprit and aft.

We anchored over Belem in the quarantine roads at
2.30, outside the harbour and town proper. It was just
such a day as when we landed in Lisbon on the 12th of
June last year ; but now we have the ominous yellow flag,
denoting quarantine, flying from the foremast.

The official boat came off, threw some papers on board,
received ours in the same way, and then sheered off to
examine them. We were, of course, quarantined, which is
the rule coming from Brazil, two gendarmes being sent on
board to watch us.

Coaling soon began, as we had only taken two hundred
tons at St. Vincent ; but this time the coal was brought
up in baskets from the lighters, and pitched direct into
the bunker’s down-shoots in the ship’s sides, so there was

252

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

much less dust. Then a few second and third class pas-
sengers went off to the lazaretto for eight days — happy
beings ! — before being allowed to mix with the world. The
lazaretto is on the south side of the Tagus, a group of
fine-looking houses, pleasantly situated on high ground ;
but I’d rather not be compelled to visit it. We were
informed that a quarantine of five days is for the present
imposed on all vessels from England, owing to a reported
outbreak of cholera at Liverpool.

For five hours we were compelled to stay here, much
annoyed at the ridiculous prohibition against going ashore,
as there was no yellow fever at Rio when we left, and we
had been out seventeen days without illness on board. At
length, when a beautiful sunset was bathing the town and
villages with a thousand warm tints, and forming even a
prettier picture than we had seen by day, we weighed
anchor and left for Pauillac.

August 16. — During the night, when entering the Bay of
Biscay, we got into a belt of fog, so slowed down, and the
fog-horn sounded for two hours, much to the comfort (?)
of the passengers.

The Bay of Biscay is smooth as oil.

Two little birds, something like wrens, only with white
breasts, have been flying about the ship and settling on
the railings or boats ever since last night. A good many
small moths, apparently Pyralides , were flying about the
deck this evening ; yet we are out of sight of land.

August iy.— Entered the Gironde at 8, and raced two
steamers (Swedish and Dutch) up to Pauillac, where we
anchored at midday. The officials, after shaking some dis-
infecting powder over our papers, examined them, and did
?iot put us in quarantine.

Several of our fellow-passengers left here, including the

HOMEWARD BOUND.

253

charming French widow. The moment she got on the
tender, she found two of her monkeys (in a box by them-
selves) had escaped, or had been stolen. I believe some
one had played a practical joke on the Frenchman, who
had bought them for her ; at any rate, he rushed about,
stormed and raged, tore back to the ship, smashed his hat
in against the side of the door, which made him worse, and
at length, returning after an unsuccessful hunt, shook his
fist at the ship, and, red with fury — and the sun — with his
eyes starting from his head, yelled out that everybody on
board, from the captain downwards, was a blackguard.

Having seen a little of Bordeaux last June, I wished
this time to visit Pauillac, so went there with a number of
others, stopping first for refreshments at the Grand Hotel,
where we ordered a small omnibus to drive round. We
then split up into two or three parties, and I went with the
omnibus. Such a change after Brazil ! Here all is cultiva-
tion and houses and roads — not an inch wasted. We drove
along a good road through endless vineyards and a neat
village up to Chateau Lafitte, approaching it by a fine
avenue of poplars and other trees. The chateau is in the
usual style of French chateaux, with round towers and
pointed roofs, and has a charming old-fashioned garden full
of flowers. I was really delighted at the cozy look of the
place ; so also was an elderly English gentleman * who
was with me, and had been thirty-one years in Brazil with-
out returning to Europe. He appeared immensely smitten,
and remarked constantly on the cultivation and quiet
beauty of the place and neighbourhood, and the cleanliness
of the town, villages, and houses. We were unable to see
the internal economy of the chateau and preparation of

* The late Mr. William Morritt, of Petropolis. He died at sea on board
the Galicia, on his return journey to Brazil, January 29, 1885.

25-j.

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

wine, as all the men were away ; so we went to a vineyard
just opposite, called Chateau Rolland, where we were most
hospitably entertained by the proprietor. We first visited
the cellers under the house, and he got out some bottles of
wine ; then we adjourned upstairs to the kitchen, but the
good wife insisted on our going into the parlour. Some of
the wine was certainly first-rate (1875 vintage), but of that
there was none for sale ; and I did not much care for the
1880 vintage, though mine host said he had sent twenty
barrels of it this year to the chamberlain of the King of
Sweden, whose photograph he showed us, and who is an
excellent customer. His price was 450 francs for a barrel
of three hundred bottles, including corks, labels, and bottles.
The good man had lately returned from Australia, where
he had been for his health ; and, after a three-years’ stay,
returned quite set up. He certainly looked stout and hale
and hearty. But I was quite distressed that, after drinking
half a dozen bottles of his wine, besides biscuits, he refused
any payment. We then returned to our hotel for dinner at
four. Afterwards we strolled about the town ; I bought a
Basque cap, and my companion some sabots for gardening.
The houses and shops are all built of, or at least faced with,
a stone which appeared to me a kind of oolitic limestone ;
this gives an exceedingly clean look to the town. It was
a great treat to see so many pretty, smiling, rosy-cheeked
lasses, with their neat caps or gay handkerchiefs, after a
year without looking on a healthy colour, except in the
Germans of Petropolis. Going off by the 7.30 boat, we left
our anchorage about ten.

August 18. — -The Bay of Biscay still like oil. Off Bel
lie at midday, and Ushant at 10 p.m.

August 19. — Off the English coast at 6 a.m. The ship
rolled a great deal all day — much more motion than we

HOMEWARD BOUND.

255

have had since we left Rio. At 7.30 p.m. we saw the
Wicklow Hills against the crimson sky.

August 20. — Woke about five. We were waiting outside
the bar of the Mersey ; in the course of half an hour, a
dozen steamers and other vessels were round us, all waiting
like ourselves. The Welsh coast looked charming in the
early dawn. At length, by 7.30, we had passed New
Brighton, and the tender came alongside. Above us the
sky was clear ; but there was a horrid smoky fog hanging
over Liverpool and Birkenhead like a pall, which was
depressing after returning from a land where, whatever dis-
agreeables there may be, there is, at least, no sulphurous
obscurity. We had yet to undergo something before
putting our foot on English soil, i.e. the Custom House.
Two long hours were spent in that shed on the landing-
stage, while every box and package was opened, and
thoroughly ransacked for dynamite. My geological
specimens were looked at somewhat, but a case of guava
marmalade was pounced on. “ It’s jest the colour of
dynamite,” says one customs officer, who must needs taste
it to convince himself it was not that dreaded compound.

We are once more at home. No more remains to be
told. So I must wind up this part of my journal and pro-
ceed to the other portion, which, though perhaps not light
reading, may be, or at least I consider it to be, more im-
portant, though I can hardly hope that all who have waded
through my daily experiences will read on to the end of
the book.

However, before I close I must express my grateful
thanks — and I know that I should herein be joined by all
our staff did they know what I am writing — to Captain
Hayes of the Cotopaxi , Captain Friend of the Valparaiso,
and all their officers, for their unvarying kindness and

256

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

sociability. It is not everywhere that such captains and
such officers are to be met with ; and I hope that, should
these lines ever meet their eyes, they will accept our heart-
felt thanks for the many pleasant hours they have allowed
us to spend in their company — hours which for many a day
it will be a delight to remember.

Note to page 244, line 33.

The Reef off Pernambuco.

Mr. Charles Darwin, in his book “The Structure and Distribution of Coral
Reefs,” has a special note (p. 266, 2nd edition) on the “Remarkable Bar of
Sandstone off Pernambuco ” (originally published in the Philosophical Magazine ,
October, 1841). He says it is a “smooth level-topped ridge, from thirty to
sixty yards in width, with even sides, and extending in a perfectly straight line
for several miles parallel to the shore.” It is for the most part composed of
sandstone and conglomerate, and is not a coral reef.

( 257 )

OUTWARD PASSAGE.

LIVERPOOL TO RIO DE JANEIRO R.M.SS. COTOPAXI.

SAILED JUNE 6, 1883,

12.30 p.m.

Date.

June 6.
>, 7-

„ 8.
„ 8.
n 9-
„ 10.

,, 11.

,, ii-
„ 12.

» 13-

>1 14-

» x5*

,, 16.

>. 17-

„ 18.

19-
„ 20.

ft 21.

22.

>. 23.

M 24.
17 25.

„ 26.
II 27.

Hour.

Lat.

Long.

Distance

made.

Course

made.

Remarks.

12.30 p.m.

53° 24' N.

2° 59' W.

Left Liverpool.

noon

490 si' N.

5° 44' W.

284 miles

various

To Pauillac 362 miles.

46° 2' N.

i° 49' W.

292

,,

” ... ?° ..

5.45 p.m.

45° 13' N.

o° 43' W.

7° ..

,,

At Pauillac.

4 p.m.

Left Pauillac.

noon

8.30 a.m. to 10

44° 47' N.

5° 41' W.

237 »i
263 ,,

various

To Carril 236 miles.
At Carril.

1.30 p.m. to 3.30

420 14' N.

8° 44' W.

40

,,

At Vigo.

12 to 6.45 p.m.

38° 42' N.

90 8' W.

240 ,,

,,

At Lisbon.

noon

35° 49' N.

ii° 31' W.

210 ,,

,,

1?Rl? de,f 4016 miles.
Janeiro ) *

,,

310 26' N.

140 9'W.

294 »

S. 270 W.

>, 3722 „

Passed between the Canary

[slands.

270 7' N.

1 6° 45' W.

292 ,,

S. 28° W.

,, 3430 n

22° 46' N.

1 8° 18' W.

284 ,,

S. 230 W.

,, 3t46 ,,

i8c 26' N.

21° o'W.

288 ,,

S. 26° W.

,, 2858 „

„

14° 13' N.

230 25' w.

288 „

S. 290 W.

2570 „

Passed to East of Cape Verd

Islands.

9° 56' N.
5° 40' N.

2S° 30' w.

284 ,,

S. 25° 36' W.
S. 26® W.

,, 2286 ,,

27° 35' W.

284 ,,

,, 2002 ,,

„

i° 27' N.

29° 9'W.

270

S. 20° W.

„ 1732 „

Passed the St. Paul’s Rocks.

2° 33' S.

320 10' w.

3°o ..

>

N

ro

c/5

n 1432 „

Current set the ship N. 76° W. 33 miles. Passed Fernando de Neronha.

noon

6° 50' S.

33° 48' w.

275 ..

S. 20° W.

7 7 1157 77

n° 13' s.

35° 9'W.

274 7,

S. i6i° W.

883 „

150 49' s.

37° 13' W.

295 ..

S. 23J0 w.

„ 588

20° 19' S.

39° 30' W.

3 °° ,,

S. 26° W.

„ 288 ,,

10.30 a.m.

22° 54' S.

43° 20' W.

N 1
OO
CO

Arrived at Rio de
Janeiro.

Liverpool to Pauillac

Pauillac to Carril

Carril to Vigo

Vigo to Lisbon

Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro ...

Stoppages

Total

646 miles

in 2 days

5 hours

15 minutes.

5°° 77

1 ,,

16 ,,

3° »

40 11

° 11

3 11

3° ..

240 ,,

o ,,

20 ,,

3°

4226 ,,

14 ii

x5 11

45 >*

5652 „

19 n

x3 11

30 11

1 11

8 „

30 n

20 ,,

22 ,,

° 11

S

258

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

RETURN PASSAGE.

RIO DE JANEIRO TO LIVERPOOL PER R.M.SS.
VALPARAISO.

SAILER JULY 28, 1884,

5.50 p.m.

Date.

Hour.

Lat.

Long.

Distance

made.

Course

MADE.

July 28.

5.50 p.m.

22° 54' S.

430 20' W.

,,

29.

noon

21° 44' S.

400 5'W.

202 miles

various

' „

30-

,,

17° 9'S.

38° 26' W.

294 »

,,

Aug.

31*

8.15 a.m. to 6.45

12° 57' S.

38° 27' w.

252

,,

1.

noon

io° 58' S.

36° 31' W.

196 ,,

,,

>>

2.

6.30 a.m. to 1.30

8° 3' S.

340 51' W.

21° ,,

*>

..

3-

noon

4° 4'S.

33° o'W.

268 „

-

Passed Fernando de Neronha.

»>

4-

t >

o° 27' N.

3°° 53' W.

299 ..

N. 250 E.

•>

5-

t,

5° 10' N.

290 19' w.

298 „

N. 190 E.

6.

,t.

9° 50' N.

270 26' W.

302 „

N. 22° E.

»

7-

1 40 9' N.

250 56' W.

274 »

N. ig° E.

»

8.

6 a.m. to 12.30

170 o' N.

240 o'W.

171 »

it

9-

noon

200 0' N.

22° 44' W.

235 „

N. 340 E.

10.

230 47' N.

20° II' W.

261 ,,

N. 330 E.

it

11.

,,

270 2l' N.

170 18' w.

265 ,,

N. 36° E.

a

12.

,,

300 30' JN.

140 41' w.

252 „

various

i3-

, ,

340 39' N.

12° 16' W.

259

N. 28° E.

a

14.

,,

38° 23' N.

9° 44' W.

253 ,,

N. 28° E.

it

14.

2.30 p.m. to 7.45

38° 42' N.

90 8'W.

27 >>

a

15-

noon

410 15' N.

90 35' W.

172 »

various

16.

440 22' N.

6° 15' W.

269 „

„

a

17

11 a.m. to 10

450 13' N.

°° 43' W.

274 »

18.

noon

46° 56' N.

3° 9'W.

150 ,,

various

a

19.

,,

500 59' N.

5° 54' W.

279 »

,,

”

20.

8 a.m.

530 24' N.

2° 59' W.

217 »

Remarks.

Left Rio de Janeiro.

546 miles to Bahia.

252 •> ,,

At Bahia.

210 miles to Pernambuco.
At Pernambuco.

To St. 7 ,

[346 m.

( N.

( 21° E.

[046 ,,

J N.

1 20° E.

748 ,,

U°E.

J N-

444 „

1i9°E.

( N.

171 ,, ■

( 1 8° E.

l At St. Vincent, Cape
[ Verd Islands.

To 7 $ course

Lisbon j 1327 m# \ var.
1066 ,, ,,

801 ,, ,,

548 „ ,,

288 „ „

. 27 » „

At Lisbon.

To Pau- I

iliac |543 ” ”

» . , 274 » »

At Pauillac.

To Liver- ) ,

pool f«6”

„ 217 ,, ,,

Arrived at Liverpool.

Rio de Janeiro to Bahia
Bahia to Pernambuco
Pernambuco to St. Vincent ...
St. Vincent to Lisbon
Lisbon to Pauillac ...

Pauillac to Liverpool

Stoppages

Total

748 miles

in 2

days 14

hours 25

406 ,,

1

„ 9

» 45

1612 ,,

5

*> 16

„ 30

1552 „

7

tt 2

a 0

7i3 „

2

,, J4

„ i5

646 ,,

2

tt 10

a 0

5779 »

21

„ 18

a 55

1

tt *6

,, 15

23

. , 11

a 10

APPENDIX I.

Notes on the Province of Minas Geraes.*

“ Owing to its central position, the province of Minas Geraes
continued for a long time unpeopled by others than natives.

“In the sixteenth century, Sebastian Tourinho and Antonio
Dias Adorno arrived in the province by following up the river-
banks. Latter in the same century, Marcos de Azeredo Coutinho
reached it, starting from Espirito Santo.

“ It was not, however, till the end of the seventeenth and
beginning of the last century that adventurers, principally from
Bahia and Sao Paolo, some descending by the Parahyba, and
others by the Sao Francisco, explored this immense territory,
being first attracted by the ambition of enslaving Indians, and
then by the abundant mineral riches which gave its name to the
province.

“ At first the territory formed part of Sao Paolo, Rio de
Janeiro, or even of Bahia, according to the part in which each
of the explorers lived.

“ By the arrangement of the Conselho Ultramarino of Sep-
tember 23, 1709, it was united to Sao Paolo, and was with that
province raised to the position of a chief state. By another
provision of December 2, 1720, it was separated from Sao Paolo,
and raised to be an independant chief state. Its first governor
was Dom Lourengo de Almeida, who took possession August 28,
1721.

* Partly translated from “ Apontamentos para a Geographia da Provincia
de Minas Geraes.” H. Laemmert e Ca., Rio de Janeiro, 1883.

260

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

“ The early period of its existence was extremely agitated.
The rivalries of race assumed a serious character, and produced
the sanguinary scenes known by the name of the wars of the
Emboabas. The fiscal rights of the metropolis, the repeated laws
made to raise the taxes (not tithes, but fifths), the different
forms of taxation, were also the origin of disturbances which
many times ended tragically on the scaffold.

“ The closing years of the last century were saddened by the
conspiracy of Tiradentes ; in which, generous plans and imprudent
words brought to the gallows that heroic patriot, and led to the
banishment of so many men of distinction.

“ The attempted conspiracy of Tiradentes — for it did not reach
beyond an attempt — was the last threatening of the people of
Minas during the colonial period. Since then peace, quietness,
and contentment have been established there, and it was only in
1842 that a revolutionary movement broke out, which was
promptly nipped in the bud.

“ Minas Geraes is to-day one of the most peaceful provinces
in Brazil, besides having the largest population ; and, following
the example which the country has set it, since, in 1850, the period
of revolutions came to an end, it has begun by agriculture and
industry to augment its importance, and lay the foundation of its
progress.”

It is the fourth largest of the twenty provinces which form the
Empire of Brazil, the other three being Amazonas, Para, and
Mato Grosso.

Minas Geraes extends in length from 140 to 20° S. lat., and in
breadth from 3° 24' east to 8° west of Rio de Janeiro; it has,
therefore, an extreme length of 621 miles, and breadth of 786,
with an area of 888,600 square kilometres. Thus it is larger than
the British Isles and France together, the British Isles being
300,000 and France 543,000 square kilometres respectively.

It is the most mountainous province in Brazil, and is crossed
by two principal groups of ranges.

The Espinhago group, which, branching out of the Serra do
Mar in Sao Paolo, extends as far as the heights of Barbacena,
under the name of Serra da Mantiqueira, and thence turning
northwards reaches to Diamantina, whence it passes into Bahia.

NOTES ON THE PROVINCE OF MINAS GERAES. 261

The second group is the Vertentes (or watershed), extending
approximately from east to west, and passing into Goyaz.

The group of the Serra do Espinhaqo includes four ranges
and fourteen series of ramifications of mountains. Speaking
broadly, it starts on the boundary of Sao Paolo, thence passing
towards Barbacena, near which it is joined by the Vertentes
group; it divides the tributaries of the Parahyba do Sul from
those of the Rio Grande, whence, running north, it is the great
boundary between the Sao Francisco, whose tributaries flow off
to the west, and the Rios Doce, Jequitinhonha, and Pardo, which,
flowing east, pass into Espirito Santo and Bahia.

The group of the Serra dos Vertentes includes four ranges and
eleven series of ramifications. This group is the great divide,
separating all the waters flowing west or south into the Parana
from the rivers going east or north into the Sao Francisco.

The province is watered by seven principal rivers — Sao Fran-
cisco, Parana or Rio Grande, Doce, Jequitinhonha, Parahyba,
Pardo, and Mucury.

According to Gerber, the following is the distribution of the
watersheds of the province.

Sao Francisco

sq. leguas.
8,800 ...

sq. kilom.

390,98 1

Parana or Rio Grande

4,900 ...

217,707

Parahyba

700 . . .

3M0I

Itabapoana

80 ...

3,554

Doce

2,300 ...

102,189

S. Matheus

IOO ...

4,443

Mucury

400 . . .

17,772

Different rivers emptying into the sea between
Porto Seguro and Porto Alegro

IOO ...

4,443

Jequitinhonha

2,200 ...

97,746

Pardo

420 . . .

18,661

20,000 ...

888,600

The Rio Grande or Parana is one of the confluents of the
River Plate. After a course of 205 leagues from its source, it is
joined by the Paranahyba, taking then the name of Parana.

It is not navigable for a great part of its course, owing to
rapids.

The Rio Sao Francisco is the third longest river in Brazil, and

262

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

ranks sixteenth in the great rivers of the world. It is only sur-
passed in Europe by the Volga. Rising on the north side of the
watershed of the great central plateau of Minas Geraes, in the
Serra da Canastra, a part of the Vertentes range between 20° and
210 S. lat., it flows south to north, as do also its tributaries, Para,
Paraopeba, and Rio das Velhas, which latter it receives S. lat. 170
n' 54", long. i° 43' 35" west of Rio de Janeiro. After a course
of 187 leagues, or 748 miles, the Sao Francisco enters the pro-
vince of Bahia ; thence it flows, through the provinces of Per-
nambuco, Sergipe, and Alagoas, 950 miles, to the wonderful falls
of Paolo Affonso, and, after another 150 miles, empties itself into
the Atlantic Ocean at Penedo, at about ioj0 S. lat.*

Its principal affluents in the province of Minas are nine rivers
on the left bank; and the rivers Para, Paraopeba, Rio das Velhas,
Jequetahy, Mangahy, and Verde Grande on the right.

The Jequitinhonha rises in the Serra do Espinhago, near
Diamantina, and flows 130 miles north-east, then easterly and
south-easterly, finally north-easterly to the sea. At the extreme
north-east corner of Minas is a magnificent series of falls some
three hundred feet high, thence its course is through the plains, f

The Rio Doce rises in the Mantiquiera range, and, after a very
circuitous course, enters Espirito Santo.

The province of Minas is supposed to be one of the most
industrious in Brazil. Most of the coffee known as Rio coffee
is grown here, and the tobacco from Barbacena, Pomba, and
Baependy is celebrated in Rio. The principal other exports that
I saw are rum, rice, black beans, sugar, cotton, charcoal, hides,
salt pork, farinha de mandioca, maize, maize flour, cheese, and
tapioca.

The Mines.

Captain Burton has written J so exhaustively on the gold
mines that it would be presumptuous for me to say more than a
passing word about them, especially as my work unfortunately
prevented my visiting the mining districts, although I was within

* “ Hydrographie du Haut San Francisco, et du Rio das Velhas,” Emma-
nuel Liais, Paris, 1865.

t Hartt’s “ Geology and Physical Geography of Brazil,” p. 137.

$ “The Highlands of Brazil,” 1869.

THE MINES.

263

fifty miles of Ouro Preto. The first diamonds were found at
Diamantina, in 1729, and the famous Portugal crown diamond
came from this locality in Minas Geraes.*

Mining to-day has not the importance it had a hundred years
ago. Dr. Chrispiniano Soares says, “Gold is done for to the
black population and to the old proprietors of works, who,
ignorant of the great progress of science and the art of working
mines, find themselves incapable of extracting the riches that
exist. The proof is that, in 1879, four mining companies, regu-
larly equipped, but without all the appliances that might be,
extracted 483,606 oitavas of gold; whereas in 1814, seventy-nine
proprietors of works in the very rich municipality of Ouro Preto
obtained only 30,815 oitavas.” He concludes, “The province of
Minas is a vast and superb territory, which, yet in its youth,
presents itself for the great industry of the extraction of gold. . . .
The not far distant future will produce enterprising spirits, new
companies will be organized, and I piously believe that this
beautiful province will astonish the world by verifying what I
anticipate in reference to its long-delayed prosperity.” f

Captain Burton lays the whole onus of the want of success of
mining companies to their being mere bogus concerns, started for
no other reason than swindling, and says, “The most lamentable
result is the false conviction in Europe that the seed of capital
cannot be sown profitably in Brazil, when there is no country
where, properly husbanded, it would bear a better crop.”|

M. Emmanuel Liais, at the close of a very elaborate description
of the geological and mineralogical features of the country, re-
marks, “At present the working of mines in Brazil is almost
entirely limited to gold and diamonds, and to some of those stones
which accompany the latter and are found in the same beds,
such as yellow topazes, chrysoberyls, beryls or aqua-marines, and
certain green tourmalines called also Brazilian emeralds. The
high prices of these substances make their search possible in the
interior of the empire, but the absence of roads permitting cheap

* “ Brazil, its Provinces and Chief Cities,” etc., Wm, Scully. Triibner,

1872.

t “Revista da Engenharia,” February 28, 1883.

t “The Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 218.

264

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

transport in general prohibit the working of most of the other
minerals, notably iron (which in Brazil is so abundant), lead, and
copper.” * Regarding iron, Professor Gorceix says f there are one
hundred and ten ironworks in Minas, producing three thousand
tons annually — not a very large amount.

M. Liais refers especially to the enormous number of auri-
ferous veins which abound in Minas and in the neighbourhood of
Pitanguy, and insists on the choice of pyritic veins for further
working. “ The chief question is to reduce economically a large
quantity of the matrix ; for if the yield per cubic metre be not so
great as from certain veins in California and Australia, the volume
is incomparably greater, which well compensates that incon-
venience. The use of hydraulic motors should be preferred to
all others, as being the most economical. These can be utilized
also for compressing air. By using them, a yield of five grammes
of gold per cubic metre pays the cost of extracting a pyritic vein,
except at very great depths ; and experience shows that most
veins yield double this quantity at the outcrop, sometimes more ;
and generally eight or ten times as much at a small depth. There
are still a number of mines unexplored, where streams exist, suffi-
cient for large works. These are the most valuable. . . . But never,
in Minas Geraes at least, need one go far from the mine to find
streams capable of supplying a great motive power. In con-
clusion, no failure has ever yet occurred in the gold mines of
Brazil, but through carelessness of administration, bad direction
of the works, and absence of a proper study of the dip of the
veins.” Any who are interested in knowing more about the sub-
ject I would recommend to read M. Liais’s and Captain Burton’s
books, which enter exhaustively into the matter from different
points of view. I will conclude this short note on the mines
with one more extract. “ The generally received opinion that
the gold mines of Brazil are exhausted is a very great mistake.
There are still surface deposits of great extent which, with modem
appliances, could be successfully, worked. The underground
wealth of the country is almost untouched, and if the mining
public of America knew Brazil better, I am persuaded that the

* “ Climats, Geologie, etc., du Bresil,” pp. 291, etc.

f “Revista Brazileira,” vol. v.

REPRESENTA TION.

265

gold fields of that country would not be neglected by American
capitalists.” *

Representation.

The province elects ten senators, twenty general deputies, and
forty provincial deputies. By the returns of 1881 the province
contains 24,141 electors. There are 87 municipal chambers and
139 districts, with twenty electoral districts, containing in all 482
parishes. Some of the names of these parishes are so remarkable
that I translate a few : —

ACTUAL NAMES.

Senhor Bom Jesus do Rio Pardo.

,, ,, ,, do Campo Mistico.

,, ,, ,, de Mattosinhos.

Tres Coragoes de J esus.

Espirito Santo dos Coqueiros.

da Forquilha.

Nossa Senhora Madre de Deus do Angu.

Patrocinio da Marmelada.
da Meia Pataca.

Conceigao do Laranjal.
das Dores do Monte Alegre,
da Assumpgao do Chapeo d’Uvas.

Abbadia do Porto Real de S. Francisco.
Consolagao de Capivary.
da Conceigao do Rio Verde,
do Bom Conselho dos Serranos.

Apparecida da Estiva,
do Rosario da Pimenta.

Mae dos Homens de Bagagem.

,, ,, de Turvo.

dos Prazeres do Milho Verde,
das Necessidades do Rio do Peixe.
da Cachoeira do Brumado.
do Rosario do Sumidouro.
da Conceigao de Catas Altas do Matto Dentro.

,, das Raposas.
da Boa Viagem do Curral d’El-Rei.
da Venda Nova.

Santa Anna de Capivary.

Santo Antonio da Olaria.

Santa Barbara do Monte Verde.

* Hartt’s “ Geology and Physical Geography of Brazil,” p. 546.

266

'a year in brazil.

Santo Francisco de Assis do Capivara.

,, Sebastiao da Cachoeira Alegre.

,, ,, dos Lengoes.

,, Francisco das Chagas do Monte Alegre.
,, Gongalo de Catas Altas de Noruega.
Barra do Espirito Santo.

Almas da Barra do Rio das Velhas.

Translation.

The Good Lord Jesus of the Dark River.

,, ,, ,, Open Fields.

,, ,, ,, Small Bushes.

The Three Hearts of Jesus.

The Holy Ghost of the Cocoa-nut Tree.

, , , , Pitchfork.

Our Lady Mother of God of Porridge.

,, Patroness of Marmalade.

,, of Fourpence.

,, Conception of the Orange Garden.

,, Sorrows of the Joyful Mountain.

„ Assumption of the Hat of Grapes.

,, ,, ,, Abbey of the Royal Gate of S. Francis.

,, Consolation of the Water-hog.

,, Conception of the Green River.

,, Good Council of the People of the Hills.

,, who appeared as the Trimmer of a Ship.

,, of the Rosary of the Pepper Tree.

,, the Mother of Porters.

„ ,, the Men of Mud.

,, of Pleasure of Green Com.

,, Necessities of the River of Fish.

,, the Rapids of the Foggy Place.

,, the Rosary of the Gutter Sink.

,, Conception of the High View of the Backwoods.

,, the Foxes.

„ the Good Voyage of the King’s Pigsty.

,, the New Grog-shop.

St. Anna of the Water-hog.

St. Anthony of the Potter’s Shop.

St. Barbara of the Green Mountain.

St. Francis of Assisi of the Water-hog.

St. Sebastian of the Joyful Rapids.

,, ,, Bed-sheets.

St. Francis of the Ulcers of the Happy Mountain.

St. Gongalves of the High Views of Norway.

The Sandbank of the Holy Ghost.

The Souls of the Sandbank of the River of Old Women.

ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION , ETC.

267

Ecclesiastical Division.

In the earliest times, Minas Geraes belonged partly to the
diocese of Rio de Janeiro and partly to the archbishopric of
Bahia, or the bishopric of Pernambuco. In 1745, Benedict XIV.,
at the instance of Joao V., created the bishopric of Marianna. In
1853, the Government was authorized to petition the Holy See for
a bull to create a new diocese, having Diamantina as its centre.
In spite of these various decrees, Minas, with the two bishops it
possesses, is subject to the diocese of Rio de Janeiro on the east,
S. Paolo on the south, and Goyaz on the west.

I saw the bishops of Rio de Janeiro and Marianna when they
were staying at Fazenda do Cortume ; they were making a visita-
tion especially for the purpose of holding confirmations, and
triumphal arches covered with flowers were erected along the
route they travelled.

Population.

The lack of trustworthy and recent statistics prevents the
exact number of inhabitants being given The census of 1872,
gave 1,669,276 free, 370,459 slaves; total, 2,039,735, or about
six persons to the square mile. Of this number, 2,036,589 were
Catholics, 3146 being described as non-Catholics. Of the men,
145,396, and 78,317 women, could read and write; while 901,630
of the men and 914,392 of the women were ignorant even of this
elementary knowledge. There are some 1084 schools scattered
among the various cities and villages ; but I can give no informa-
tion as to their efficiency, though there are some 34,000 scholars
on the books. I was told of a complaint lodged against a recently
appointed Government inspector, on the ground that he could
neither read nor write.

Railways in Minas Geraes.

Speaking on this subject, at the opening of the Minas Pro-
vincial Assembly, August 1, 1882, Senhor Dr. Theophilo Ottoni
said, “Buried amongst her mountains, separated from the ocean
by the territories of some of the states bordering on her, Minas
could not begin railways until the locomotive of the Dom Pedro
II. line arrived at her frontiers. It was only in 1871 that the

268

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

provincial government authorized the construction of our first
railroad.”

In May, 1871, the General Assembly sanctioned the prolonga-
tion of the Government Trunk Line, Estrada de Ferro Dom
Pedro II., and made a credit of 20,000 contos of reis (^2,000,000
at 24 d. to the milreis) for that purpose.

In 1883, there were 256!- miles of railway open for traffic in
the province, 108 miles were in construction, 172 miles were
surveyed, and 1506J- miles were authorized; making a total of
2043 miles. By the end of June, 1884, 715 kilometres, or 447
miles, were open for traffic.

The Estrada de Ferro Dom Pedro II. — Captain Burton, speak-
ing of this railway in 1867,* says, that three valleys claimed the
honour of being considered for the selection of a route : those
of the Para, Paraope'ba, and Rio das Velhas. The last-named
valley was chosen. This railway has a gauge of metres. It
enters the province near the station of Parahybuna, at about
226 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro. When I arrived in June,
1883, the traffic extended as far as Carandahy (420 kilometres) ;
but in January, 1884, after a long interruption of goods traffic,
owing to the injury done to the banks and cuttings during the
rainy season, the line was opened to Lafayette (Queluz), 468 kilo-
metres from Rio. The works are now in progress for the pro-
longation through Sahara to Sancta Luzia, which is in the
valley of the Rio das Velhas. f This railroad has an extensive
system of lines and branches in the province of Rio de Janeiro,
but as yet in Minas its only branch is the Sao Joao del Rey Line.

This Dom Pedro II. railway is a government line, and no one
really knows what it has cost. One thing is certain, that every-
one who has had to do with it has been enriched. All the work
is done in the most costly manner, and a vast amount of expense
has been incurred, such as retaining walls five feet thick where
they are unnecessary. The platelaying, for instance, has been let
at five times its cost. The contractors feed their workmen, de-

* “ The Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 153.

t It has lately been decided that the prolongation of the railway beyond
Lafayette is to be on the metre gauge, and the portion already constructed is
to be taken up and relaid (January, 1886).

RAILWAYS.

269

ducting on this account certain amounts from their wages. But the
wages are not paid ; the men are told by the contractors that the
Government has not paid them — the result is long arrears. And
at length some of the men, weary of waiting, go away in disgust,
and are compelled to sell the wages due to them, at an enormous
discount, to the shopkeepers.

The published returns appear very satisfactory. For instance,
in October, 1883, the receipts over the whole line are stated at
1,169,903 milreis, and the expenditure at 633,939 milreis; for
November, 1883, receipts 1,054,307 milreis, expenditure 505,076
milreis; and for February, 1884, receipts 861,454, expenditure
478,053 milreis; but nothing is said as to the liquidation of, or
interest on, the cost of construction. The dividends are, I believe,
about five per cent, per annum.

The Estrada de Ferro Oeste de Minas. — This line was opened
August 28, 1881, It extends from Sitio on the Estrada de Ferro
Dom Pedro II. (364 kilometres from Rio) to the town of Sao
Jo2o del Rey; and the majority of the imports and exports to
and from the Para valley and that neighbourhood are conveyed,
by this railway. The length of the line is 100 kilometres (62^
miles), and the gauge is only 0-76 metre, or 2 feet 6 inches. It is
proposed to extend this road to the navigable waters of the Rio
Grande, that flows into the Rio Parana, which goes to Buenos
Aires. During thirteen months the receipts on this railway were
160,585 milreis, and the expenditure 127,219 milreis. There
were 10,454 passengers.

It is amusing — when the giant American locomotive which
draws the cars from Rio de Janeiro steams into the station at
Sitio — to see the microscopic engines of this railway, with its
train of diminutive carriages waiting on the other side of the
platform.

Estrada de Ferro Ouro Pretana. — This branch line from the
Estrada de Ferro Dom Pedro II. near Sahara, to Ouro Preto is
in course of construction. It will be fifty kilometres (thirty-one
miles) in length, with one metre gauge. The engineering diffi-
culties to be overcome are enormous, and there will be many
tunnels. Owing to the abundant presence of magnetic ore, the
compass is rendered useless in the construction of the tunnels.

270

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

The Leopoldina line is of one metre gauge and 203 kilo-
metres in length. It extends from Porto Novo (Estrada de
Ferro Dom Pedro II.), on the Parahyba river, to Presidio. This
railway was opened in July, 1877. In one half year its receipts
were 430,077 milreis, and expenditure 287,055 milreis; in the
next six months the receipts amounted to 836,047 milreis, and
the expenditure 316,188 milreis.

The Minas and Rio Railway was constructed by Mr. James
Brunlees (then President Inst. C. E.) as the engineer, Messrs.
Waring Brothers being the contractors. The line was opened
with a grand ceremony by the Emperor, who, with the Empress
and the Conde d’Eu, went over the whole length on the 22nd
and 23rd of June, 1884. A column and a half appeared in the
Journal de Commercio , describing their triumphal progress and
detailing all particulars of the line. The railway extends from
Cruzeiro, on the Sao Paolo line, near Queluz, in the province of
Rio, to Tres Coragoes, on the Rio Verde, an affluent of the Rio
Grande. The total length to Tres Coragoes is 170 kilometres
(132 miles). The gauge is one metre. The most important
work is a tunnel through the Mantiqueira Mountains, 997 metres
(1080 yards) long. There are also five small tunnels. This line
has furnished the text for a lengthy and somewhat bitter corre-
spondence, both at home and in Brazil, on the railways and
finances of that country. But it is not my intention to add my
quota here to the matter in dispute, as my statements concerning
Brazilian finance will be found in a later note.

It is needless to say anything respecting other railways pro-
posed, though not yet commenced ; but I must refer for a moment
to the line on the survey of which I was engaged. This rail-
way, the Minas Central, is to extend from Christiano Ottoni
(Estrada de Ferro Dom Pedro II., 438 kilometres from Rio de
Janeiro) to Pitanguy, with a length of some 250 kilometres and
a gauge of one metre. It has an authorized extension to Sao
Antonio dos Patos, whence it is to proceed into the province of
Goyaz, which province is at present far removed from all such
means of civilization and communication. Starting on the Rio
Paraopeba, which is there a mere stream, it will pass across the
head waters of that river to the important town of Entre Rios,

RAILWAYS.

271

where I passed five months, and thence, gaining the valley of the
Para (one of those originally proposed for the Government
Trunk Line), it will proceed along this valley to the town of
Pitanguy. A glance at the map will show the importance of this
railway, especially when one bears in mind the gold deposits at
Pitanguy. Pitanguy is at least twenty leagues (eighty miles) from
Sahara and the Rio das Velhas, besides which there are two
ranges of mountains to be crossed ; the first dividing the Pard
from the Paraopeba, and the second separating the Paraopeba
from the Rio das Velhas. The valley of the Para is wide,
beautiful, and very fertile, well-populated for those regions, and
capable of untold development. Our line of railway will be of
the utmost service, as at present merchandise to and from
Pitanguy has, at least, some thirty-six leagues of transit to
the Estrada de Ferro Dom Pedro II. ; and, since the opening
of the line to Queluz, it is nearer than the Sao Joao del Rey
Railway. The Minas Central was strongly opposed by this last-
named branch, which is easily understood, as it will tap the
districts whence they derive much of their traffic ; and the shares
of that line fell heavily when the news was published of the arrival
of our staff at Rio de Janeiro. The authorities of the Sao Joao
Railroad presented a petition to the provincial government at the
close of 1883, objecting to the Minas Central as infringing
on their privileges ; but the Government, having considered their
request, refused to listen to it. All the landowners to whom I
spoke on the subject invariably said that the Sao Joao line acabou
(was done for) now our railway was in hand. Certainly the line
to Pitanguy is a necessity — certainly it would vastly increase the
cultivation and population, as has been the case in the last year
along the newly opened Trunk Line ; and the line should be
made, if Brazil continues to retain the favourable opinions of
English investors that it has to-day. It has a guaranteed Govern-
ment interest, and must be at least as profitable as many of the
others, while it may in time far surpass them. Che sard , sard ; the
future of this scheme, of the province, of the empire, is fortunately
in abler hands than mine, and I presume that no statements that
I may have occasion to make in my notes on the finances of
Brazil can do anything to retard the construction of the Pitanguy

272

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

railroad. Personally, and in the interest of many excellent resi-
dents in those parts who have proved true friends to me, and who
wish for the line, I hope it may ere long be opened for traffic.* * * §

In concluding these notes on the railways of Minas Geraes,
I may remark that it appears a pity that such varied gauges should
have been used. Brazil is as yet far from a “battle of the gauges,”
which created so much trouble in England ; but some time in the
future it may be found out that a mistake has been made.

Note on Fernando de Neronha.

To-day, as I have stated, but little is known of this place, and
ships generally give it a wide berth. It belongs to the province
of Pernambuco, and lies in lat. 3° 50' south, long. 320 25' west of
Greenwich. It is distant from the coast about two hundred miles,
and consists of one large island and several smaller ones,f the
whole being, according to Darwin, J nine miles long by three
broad. Darwin considers it all to be of volcanic origin ; “ the most
remarkable feature is a conical hill, about one thousand feet high.”
It may be of interest to describe an abridged account from
the translation of “ A Voyage to South America, . . . undertaken
by command of His Majesty the King of Spain, by Don George
Juan and Don Antonio de Ulloa, both captains of the Spanish
Navy, members of the Royal Societies of London and Berlin,”
etc.§ It is a most interesting work. These explorers landed on the
islands May 21,1 745. They say, “ On our arrival we were informed
that the French East India Company had made a settlement on it
as a convenient place for their ships to put in at for refreshments ;
but the Court of Portugal, being unwilling that either the French
or any other nation should have a settlement so near the coast of
Brazil, obliged them to evacuate it. This resolution was taken
about seven years ago, since when . . . forts have been erected,
and a colony settled on the island. . . . This island has two
harbours capable of receiving ships of the greatest burthen : one

* Construction began January 6, 1885.

f Hartt’s “ Geology and Physical Geography of Brazil,” p. 478.

£ “Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of H.M.’s ships Adventure and
Beagle vol. iii. p. 10.

§ Published in London, 1758.

FERNANDO DE NERONHA.

273

is on the north side, and the other on the north-west. . . . The
barrenness of the island does not proceed from any defect in its
soil, which produces every species of grain and fruits common in
hot climates, as experience has sufficiently demonstrated, but
from the want of moisture ; for, besides two or three years often
pass without any rain, there is not the least drop of water to be
found throughout the island, except in some brooks. . . . On the
19th of May came on violent showers, which continued the whole
time we remained near the island. The inhabitants use the water
which they save in pits resembling cisterns ; but this, as well as
the waters of the brooks, on its beginning to rain, grow thick and
brackish. The Portuguese, indeed, say that in the inward parts
of the island, where these brooks have their origin, water is never
wanting, and that it is clear and wholesome.

“ In the inward part of the island is a Portuguese town, in
which reside the parish priest and a governor, who, on advice of
any ships being in sight, repair to the forts, which are all well
garrisoned, there being only in fort Remedios, while we were
there, near one thousand men — partly regulars sent from Fernam-
buco, which are relieved every six months ; and partly transports,
from all the coast of Brazil ; and some, though few, which are
settled here with their families — all being poor people and
Mestizos (descendants of Spaniards and Indians). There are
also some Indians who are sent to work on the fortifications,
and likewise to serve the governor and other officers in the
island. . . .

“ The common food of the inhabitants of all ranks, both here
and throughout Brazil, is the farina de Pau or wood-meal, which
is universally eaten instead of bread. . . . They are so habituated
to it that, even at a table where they have wheat-bread at com-
mand, with every mouthful of it they take a little of this meal.
Besides this flour, which is, in fact, nothing more than wood-meal
or sawdust, both with regard to taste and smell, they eat a great
deal of rice and sugar-cane, brought from Pernambuco. . . .

“ After the second settlement of the Portuguese here, besides
the little plantations, which was one of their first cares, they also
brought over cows, hogs, and sheep, in order to breed those
useful creatures. And, as a small quantity of flesh serves the

T

274

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Portuguese, they are, even in this barren soil, so greatly increased
that during our whole stay here we had the pleasure of victualling
our crews with fresh provisions, and at our departure took on
board a quantity sufficient to last us for several days.

“ These harbours, or roads, abound in fish of five or six different
species, and among these are lampreys and morenos. The last
are of an enormous size, but neither of them palatable. At the
bottom of this harbour is taken a fish called cope, from its
triangular figure. . . . During the season which the turtles lay
their eggs, namely, from December to April, the shores of the
whole island are covered with them, after which they retire into
the sea and disappear. . . .

“ Notwithstanding all the civility and friendship of the governor
in every particular, we were in the same condition in the island,
with regard to recreation and amusements, as if we had been at
sea. Being hardly permitted to go ashore, the Portuguese, from
their natural suspicion and jealousy, observed their orders with
such precise strictness, that to go from the shore to the principal
fort where the governor resided was the only walk allowed ; and
in this, he who went ashore was attended with three or four
soldiers, who never left him till he returned to the boat, which
was immediately ordered to be put off. Guards were placed in
all quarters of the harbour ; and, on seeing any boat, they imme-
diately ran to the place they supposed she intended to land, in
order to accompany the passengers.”

Dr. Darwin says, “ The whole island is covered with wood ;
but from the dryness of the climate there is no appearance of
luxuriance. At some elevation great masses of columnar rock,
shaded by laurels, and ornamented by a tree covered by fine pink
flowers,* like those of a foxglove, but without a single leaf, gave
a pleasing effect to the nearer parts of the scenery.” j

In the official report of the Challenger expedition it is stated :
“ The intention was to have remained at this island for a week or
ten days to survey and explore it thoroughly; but, no previous notice
having been given to the Brazilian Government, the commandant

* Jatropha gossypifolia, “ Challenger Report,” 1873-76.
f “Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of H.M.’s ships Adventure and
Beagle between the years 1826 and 1836,” vol. iii. p. n.

RELIGION.

275

would on no account take on himself the responsibility of per-
mitting collections to be made on shore, or soundings to be taken
adjacent to the coast, although at first he appeared willing to
allow this. . . . On it were about 1400 prisoners, 160 soldiers,
and four officers, besides the commandant or governor. . . . The
prisoners are not confined in large buildings, but each man erects
a hut for himself with laths and mud, so that the settlement
occupies a considerable area. . . . All the prisoners muster at
morning and evening parade, and are ‘told off’ in the morning
for their allotted work during the day — some to attend the sheep
or goats, others to labour in the fields, and others, again, to fish.”
The fishermen use a catamaran. “ There are plantations of sugar-
cane, maize, cassava, sweet potatoes, bananas, pumpkins, and
melons on the island. The latter, both water and marsh, are
remarkably fine, both in size and flavour ; they cost about three-
pence each, and a large store was purchased.” * The Report con-
tains an imposing view of the Peak.

Religion.

Having lived for some months far inland, and having had
many opportunities of seeing the religious life of the people
removed from the outward influences which obtain in seaport
towns, such as Rio de Janeiro — a people only partly civilized, no
doubt, but still superior to many other South American Roman
Catholics ; admiring their deep religious feeling and careful
observance of outward ceremonial ; and having also for some
years devoted considerable study to theological matters ; — I feel
constrained to give expression to a few thoughts on the subject of
religion. While not expressing my own individual views, I make
no apology for the sentiments I express, though I fear that fifty
out of every hundred readers will each cross out some sentences,
till there will be but a skeleton remaining of these paragraphs. I
write as a member of the Church of England who yearns for the
attainment — which I fear is almost impossible, as what is deemed
vital truth by one is termed heresy and error by another— of a
modus vivendi between the various branches of the Christian
Church. If, however, any one be induced to make more allow-
* “ Narrative,” vol. i. pt. 1, pp. 210, 21 1. London, 1885.

-76

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

ance to those who differ from them, the object of these lines will
have been gained.

For those who have been educated from childhood in the
Roman Faith, who have known no other, and who regard with
warped intellects the other branches of the Church, it is conceiv-
able that for them it is sufficient. But I cannot comprehend any
who have been brought up. in the freedom and superior light of
the English Church giving their allegiance to Rome. Her errors
in theory as well as practice appear so very evident.

As regards the one service, the only one commanded by the
Divine Founder of our holy religion, and therefore binding on
all Christians, called Holy Communion, the Eucharist (sacrifice
of thanksgiving), the Mass, the Lord’s Supper, or Breaking of
Bread, I weekly saw hundreds attending this service. It was, of
course, in Latin. The priest’s voice alone was heard ; the congrega-
tion did not utter a word. They crossed themselves at the Gospel,
beat their breasts at the non sum dignus , and their demeanour was
generally reverent ; but they hardly ever communicated, even at
Easter. What communion is there? The idea, noble in itself
perhaps, of one universal language for the celebration of the Holy
Mysteries is a mistake. Though, of course, the first object of the
Eucharist is the worship of God and the representation of the One
Sacrifice on behalf of mankind, yet the edification of the wor-
shippers who assist should be also considered ; but with the ser-
vice in an unknown tongue the greatest good to the greatest
number is not and cannot be attained. The people attend as a
duty, but few derive much benefit ; and I found that attendance
is considered as a kind of fetish or charm !

The celibacy of the clergy is enforced. How few keep the vows !
The number of children that many of the priests have is well
known, and many others are notorious evil-livers ! How can it
be otherwise ? The number of men to whom the virginal life is
possible is proportionately very small. Preternatural grace of the
very highest degree is necessary to resist the natural inclination and
the influence of the habits and customs of those with whom the
priest must continually associate, especially in warmer or tropical
climates ; and this lofty standard cannot be expected of many
thousands of men who have not, in all cases, entered the priest-

RELIGION.

277

hood from the highest motives. St. Paul, a celibate, while
emphatically proclaiming the virgin state as the highest possible
to mankind when undertaken from the true standpoint, said,
“ Marriage is honourable in all,” * and “ it is better to marry than
to burn.” f Our Blessed Lord also, when His disciples said “ It
is not good to marry,” answered them thus, “ All men cannot
receive this saying, save they to whom it is given.” J

The invocation of saints has degenerated into their usurping
the position of the One Mediator, and the natives also invoke
localized names of Our Lord, the Blessed Virgin Mary, and the
saints, appearing to consider, e.g, that the Good Lord Jesus of the
Good Garden, and Our Lady of the Junction of the Rivers, are
more immediately their helpers.

This cult of the saints is exercised in a practical way, which
appears worthy of notice. The instances I detail below may have
their counterpart in other Roman Catholic countries, but I, at
least, am not cognizant of it.

“ The military standing of Sancto Antonio in the Brazilian
army is one of considerable importance and diversified service.
According to a statement of Deputy Aristides Spinola, on the 13th
of June, 1884, the eminent saint’s own feast-day, his career in the
military service of Brazil has been the following : — By a royal
letter of the 7th of April, 1707, the commission of captain was con-
ferred upon the image of Sao Antonio da Barra, of Bahia. This
image was promoted to be a major of infantry by a decree of
September 13, 1810, and by an aviso of July 29, 1859. His pay
was placed upon the regular pay-roll of the department of war.
The image of Sao Antonio in Rio de Janeiro, however, outranks
his counterpart of Bahia, and seems to have had a more brilliant
military record. His commission as captain dates from a royal
letter of March 21, 1711, and was conferred on him by Governor
Antonio de Albuquerque Coelho e Carvalho, in recognition of his
valorous exploits in resisting the French invasion under Duclerc.
He was promoted to a major of infantry by a decree of July 14,
1810, and to a lieutenant-colonel July 26, 1814. . . . He was
decorated with the Grand Cross in the Order of Christ by a decree
of August 13, 1814, and his pay as lieutenant-colonel was made a
* Heb. xiii. 4. t 1 Cor. vii. 9. X St. Matt. xix. 10, 11,

278

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

permanent charge on the military list by an aviso of August 13,
1833. . . . The image of Sao Antonio of Ouro Preto, Minas
Geraes, attained the rank and pay of captain by an aviso of
February 26, 1799. His career has been an uneventful one, and
has been confined principally to the not-unpleasant task of draw-
ing $480 a month from the public treasury. The salaries of all
these soldierly images are drawn by duly constituted attorneys,
and are devoted to such repairs and furbishing as the wear and
tear of their annual campaigns may render necessary. The
balance left over is. devoted to the private expenses of their
households.” *

The iniquity of indulgences still obtains. I have elsewhere
referred to the most flagrant sin of authorizing marriages within
the prohibited degrees. Other indulgences, such as permission to
eat meat more than once a day in Lent, are comparatively trivial,
as thereby sin is not licensed ; but, as I said to some Brazilians, if
a thing be wrong, paying money will not make it right. If it be a
matter of conscience, and ill-health or weakness compel any one
to set aside the rules of the Church, surely the priest should give
such permission, without payment being exacted.

The prohibition of reading the Bible, originally instituted
owing to the tendency of sects and individuals to distort the
Scriptures to suit their own ideas, has proved to be evil in its con-
sequences, and to-day the Roman Church chiefly fears the laity
getting hold of the Bible, because they would then find out how
much they have been taught which has no foundation in the
Scriptures. I spoke to many intelligent men in Brazil who,
having read the Bible, have discovered this, and cannot understand
the continual promulgation of new doctrines as articles of faith ;
but they said, “All human systems have more or less error, and we
know of no better.”

I also met with many who longed to read the Bible, thankfully
receiving and carefully reading the Gospels or New Testaments
that I gave them. Though there is so much that needs reforming,
I never tried to unsettle their minds or make them dissatisfied
with their faith, but merely to give them a fuller knowledge and
clearer appreciation of the history of the life, death, and resur-
* Rio News, July 5, 1884.

RELIGION.

279

rection of Our Divine Redeemer, while explaining personal
religion.

Unfortunately, many of our own Church and Protestants who
labour among Roman Catholics are often too eager to instruct,
beginning with violent abuse of the Roman Church rather than
educating their hearers by enlarging on the truths they have been
taught and instilling the doctrines of the Gospel, leaving the
truth to work, as Elisha did with Naaman. Therefore, such
teachers are spoken against by the ecclesiastical authorities, and
the people refuse to listen. I could not have distributed a single
Gospel with advantage without feeling my way most carefully.

One point is very praiseworthy in all the sermons I heard — the
priest's never weary of dilating on the atonement of Our Divine
Redeemer as the one ineffable sacrifice necessary for the satis-
faction of divine justice and substitutionary for each individual
soul, through which alone the sinner can find acceptance with
God ; though they do teach that the prayers of departed saints —
who should be invoked, as well as those of one’s relations and
friends who are alive, are of use in obtaining blessings from God.

The doctrine of the atonement is, however, one which is often
lost sight of in our pulpits ; men refuse to believe in the heinous-
ness of sin, refuse to believe that the justice of a perfectly holy
God requires full satisfaction for sin, and, by rationalistic arguments
derived from degraded human reason, dwell only on the father-
hood and love of God to mankind. There are two rocks, Scylla
and Charybdis, against either of which all Christian people may
make shipwreck of their faith ; they stand one at each end of the
line of intellectual thought. The first is Formalism, the second
Rationalism. The former is the outcome of a kind of parasitic
religion, handing over the conscience to the direction of another,
and considering that the individual has no right to think for himself
and examine the doctrines whether they be of God, or else think-
ing that a feeble acquiescence in certain dogmas and the per-
formance of certain forms and ceremonies is all that is necessary.
The second phase is the result of revulsion of feeling from the
other extreme, not only refusing to listen to the voice of the
Church, the directions of the Bible, and the dictates of conscience,
but setting up their personal puny and corrupt intellect as the

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

280

supreme appeal — refusing to believe all that seems contrary to
their individual ideas of justice or expediency. This latter is
perhaps the more fearful error, as by it the finite utters the awful
blasphemy of daring to dictate to the Infinite.

It is a thought which should be much considered, that Our
Lord’s last prayer for unity is too often lost sight of. Unity in
design, variety in carrying out that design, is the universal law in
the natural world ; would that it were more fully recognized in the
Christian Church. There are hardly two leaves on any tree
exactly similar ; so there are few men of the same mind and tem-
perament. All branches of the Church may be described as
ranged in a circle, with Christ as their centre ; the nearer they
approach Him, the closer they are drawn to one another.

Certain doctrines, of course, must be insisted on, such as the
Trinity, the divinity of the Son of Man and His atonement,
salvation in and through Him alone. We must likewise remember
the inability of man to make himself acceptable to God, that
prayer is the life of the soul, that the Christian life is a conflict,
that we are alone able to fight by supernatural aid through the
indwelling of the Holy Spirit, and that the sacraments are also
divinely appointed means to that end.

Surely, this is a basis on which all Christians should meet, and
the details, though in themselves important, should hold a second
place. One man may consider that a service bare of ritual, but
from the heart, is more acceptable to God ; another, that ornate
ritual, with vestments and incense, is a closer resemblance to the
unending worship in heaven, as revealed in the Apocalypse. “ Who
art thou that judgest another man’s servant ? To his own master
he standeth or falleth.” “ Let every man be fully persuaded in
his own mind.” * If every one would exercise more of the divine
gift of charity, and were more inclined to acknowledge and appre-

* Is it not virtually to deny that charity is the greatest of the three theo-
logical virtues (1 Cor. xiii. 13), when a Church, e.g. the Roman Communion,
excommunicates all other branches, calling them heretics, or when Protestants
look upon the various Christian Churches as idolatrous and ripening up for
fierce judgment, and therefore, while refusing to extend to them the right
hand of fellowship, will even prefer anti-Christian religions or sects, such as
the Tews or Unitarians? I refer only to the odiii7n theologicum between
Churches or sects per se, and not to individuals of any denomination.

SLAVERY.

281

ciate the good in others, instead of dwelling on what each con-
siders their faults or errors, one great step towards unity would
be attained. The bigotry and lack of charity amongst Christians
is the fact which affords — perhaps more than any other — the
ground for the arguments of Atheism against the Church of our
divine and blessed Redeemer.

Slavery.

It may be confidently asserted, owing to the very great move-
ment which has been daily increasing in earnestness, and which
engrosses the mind of every one throughout the length and
breadth of the empire, that before long slavery will have ceased to
exist in Brazil.

The law of Rio Branco, or Lei do ventre livre, was passed
September 28, 1871. It provides that the children of all slaves
born after that date shall be free ; and it also founded the Emanci-
pation Fund. The Bill was brought in by the Visconde do Rio
Branco, then President of the Council, and Director of the Poly-
technic School at Rio de Janeiro. He is a staunch Conservative.
The Bill passed through the two Chambers during one of the visits
of the Emperor to Europe, when the Princess Isabel was Regent.
She is the wife of Count Louis Philippe Gaston d’Orleans and
Conde d’Eu.

Since that date the abolition of slavery has been steadily pro-
gressing, through the Emancipation Fund, and by private acts of
freeing slaves during their life, or after the death of the owners, as
I shall describe in due course.

Slaves can still be bought, but there is a tax of a conto of reis *
on importing them from other provinces. The cost of slaves
from fifteen to twenty-five years of age is from four hundred or
five hundred milreis to one or two contos. Since 1831 no slaves
can be brought into the country ; but this law has been evaded, as
many have been imported from Africa from time to time. In
Gardner’s Travels, f he mentions that in 1841 he saw, near Petro-
polis, twenty young negro boys recently imported, of from ten to
fifteen years of age, none of whom could yet speak Portuguese.

* A conto is a million reis = roughly to ^100.
t Gardner’s “Travels in the Interior of Brazil,” p. 536.

282

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Dr. Pedro Ferreira Vianna, in an article * on emancipation,
advises the employment of prudence and law. He says—

“ Slavery is an institution of our civil law. But there is also
in our civil code the law of November 7, 1831, which says, Article
1, ‘All slaves which shall enter the territory or ports of Brazil,
coming from abroad are free ; ’ and in Article 2, ‘ Persons who
knowingly buy as slaves those who are declared free in Article 1,
are included under the term importers ; these importers, however,
are only compromised subsidiarily to the expenses of re-exporta-
tion, subject withal to the other penalties.’ One of these penalties
is that of Article 179 of the criminal code, for those who reduce
free persons to slavery. . . . The nation is therefore compelled to
indemnify for those slaves who are liberated if they came before
that law, and to restore liberty to those who came after it. The
judges cannot, without injustice, fail to indemnify the masters.
Abraham Lincoln and the Americans had no such law as that of
1831, and thus spoke in the name of God and of humanity. . . .
Fiat justicia pereat nec pereat mundus. I trust that in loyalty none
will say the law has fallen into disuse. . . . The law being known,
nothing is easier than to put it into execution. The Imperial
Government cannot and should not liberate by the Fund of
Emancipation the slaves who are free in virtue of the law of 1831.
They know by the books, the invoices of sales, the baptismal
registers of the descendants of these Africans, and by other docu-
ments, who are those comprised under this head. . . , The civil
law states that there are hundreds of thousands of free men reduced
to slavery (about one-half of the population). . . . For these men
no indemnification can be allowed. The voice of the civil law
will not be smothered, because it will be heard in the recesses of
every conscience. ... In my words there is not only charity, but
the desire that you should reconcile yourselves with God, with
humanity, with natural instinct, with civil law, with the slave ; and
this reconciliation means liberty.” He then says that everywhere
there should be organizations to prevent freed slaves being con-
tinually threatened, prisons being invaded and captured slaves
assassinated, and finally to guarantee justice. He concludes by
extending the hand of friendship to all emancipators, and offers
* Gazeta da Tarde , June 30, 1884.

SLAVERY.

283

“a prayer that the dead may not forget us in their prayers for
these unhappy ones.”

The Rio News* commenting on this letter, says, “ The Bra-
zilian slave-owner never obeyed the law of 1831, because it
was antagonistic to what he considered his own private interest —
an uninterrupted supply of cheap slave-labour. . . . For some
twenty-five years he brought in over half a million of Africans
after 1831, and it was only after further legislation and the forcible
intervention of foreign powers that he finally gave up the traffic.
Since the passage of the law of 1871 he has pursued a similar
policy with relation to the avoidance of its requirements. There
has never been an honest registration of slaves, nor a strict observ-
ance of the provision guaranteeing liberty to the children of slave
mothers. ... No man can justly claim the protection of laws
which he habitually and openly violates. If a law is worth en-
forcing, it is worth obeying.”

The “ Funda de Emancipaqao,” or Emancipation Fund, is
divided at certain intervals by the Government of each province
between the different municipalities. Every day one reads in the
papers of some slaves liberated by this fund. The administrators
select their candidates carefully. For instance, they prefer to free a
slave whose husband or wife is already free. Again, the fazendeiros
(landed gentry) give some of their slaves land, and allow them
Sundays and saints’ days to cultivate it ; or if the slaves are hired
out, their wages on those days belong to them. Slaves can thus
earn money to assist in buying their freedom ; and such are also
preferred as recipients from the Emancipation Fund. When the
time for liberation arrives, the master and slaves appear before
the municipal judge, and their value is handed over to the
owner.

I may quote, among many instances that I heard of, a gentle-
man at Pitanguy, who possesses a slave who is a “ pedreiro ” (stone-
mason). Out of every S2 500 reis that he receives as wages, the
master takes $i 300 reis, and gives the slave $1 200 reis.
Another man has a black cook who lived five years in Rio, being
three years in a French house; he obtained his freedom in 1870.
He speaks a little French, and, though he cannot read, he knows
* July 5, 1884.

284

A YEAH IN BRAZIL.

something of geography, and can tell on a map the names of
countries, their chief towns, rivers, etc.

I will now give a few examples of the daily-occurring libera-
tion of slaves.* “The President (of the province) of Rio de
Janeiro has assigned the quotas of the Emancipation Fund under
the last distribution to the various municipalities of the province.
The total amount assigned is 370,000 milreis, and the total slave
population is stated to be 263,339. The municipality credited
with the smallest number of slaves (584) is that of Petropolis.”
“ Three slaves were recently liberated at Monte Verde, Goyaz,
through the Emancipation Fund, at a total cost of #2970, towards
which the slaves contributed a total of $1052 from their private
savings. Entre Rios freed one slave for Hi 000, the slave con-
tributing $350. Of the hundred odd slaves who assisted in
repressing a revolt in the House of Detention on December 14,
the Government has secured the liberation of about eighty, partly
by purchase and partly by private gift.”! The Provinciano , news-
paper of Parahyba do Sul, gives the following list of those who
have emancipated all their slaves : —

“ Dona Anna S. Jose, 16 slaves liberated, and a farm given to them for their
own use.

Dona Maria de Caula, 16 slaves liberated, with the condition of serving five
years on the works of the Casa de Caridade.

Condessa do Rio Novo, 200 slaves liberated by will, and the Cantagallo Planta-
tion given them for a home.

Jose Eunes Baganha, Portuguese, died in Lisbon, left $100,000 for the
liberation of his old slaves.

Barao de Simao Dias, 163 slaves liberated, who remain established on his
plantation as labourers.

Barao de Santo Antonio, 168 slaves liberated by will, and two plantations
given them for their own use.”

In Dr. Vianna’s letter, from which I have quoted, he denies
the right of applying the Emancipation Fund to the slaves who
should be free ; the theory is without a flaw, but it would probably
prove impossible to be carried out. The advocates of immediate
abolition should consider that (1) as it would be impossible to
ascertain who should be free and who is legally still a slave, (2) as
the question of the compulsory labour of freed blacks is very

* Rio News, January 15, 1884. t Ibid, January 24, 1884.

SLAVERY.

285

difficult, (3) as the effect of the liberation of 1834 in the West
Indies has done incalculable harm to the prosperity of those
islands ; — perhaps the most expedient way of annihilating slavery
may, after all, be to allow the present very energetic movements
for the redemption of slaves to continue, and not to force com-
pulsory abolition. The interests of the slaves themselves, as also
of the masters, will thus be more surely advanced. The difficulty
of administering the law of 1831 would be very great, as the
slaves, or their descendants, who should be free men, according
to that law, have been so often sold, or otherwise changed hands,
no record of age being kept, and the registers having been other-
wise falsely made up, so that the loss entailed on the present
owners by compulsorily freeing them would be very great.

I have seen several letters in the Times — one about the end
of December, 1884 — detailing fearful horrors practised on slaves,
but not a word of the awful outrages committed by the Socialistic
members of the Abolitionist movement. I may mention, en
parenthese , that I had certainly opportunity of seeing something
of the treatment of slaves, being thirteen months in the country ;
but I never came across any other than considerate kindness from
master to slave, sometimes even far greater benevolence and con-
sideration than is exercised towards servants in our own country
which boasts of its freedom. I only heard of one case, but had
no opportunity of further inquiry, in which shrieks were heard
coming in from a neighbouring fazenda, one Sunday morning,
when the master was apparently castigating some unfortunate,
whether deservedly or not I cannot say.

I must give two examples of the effect of Socialist teaching,
instances which, I know, are, alas ! not uncommon.

A young man with some ^50,000, bought a fazenda, as a
country residence, and with it the slaves on the estate. He
treated his slaves with great kindness, and improved their
dwellings. On one occasion he saw, at a neighbour’s, a slave
in the stocks for some misdemeanour, who entreated this gentle-
man to buy him. He did so, and the slave became his body-
servant. Some time after, he accompanied his master to Rio,
where he was allowed to go about freely. He attended some
of the Socialistic meetings of the lower class of Abolitionists, who

286

A YEAR IN BRAZIL .

proclaim war against all masters, and counsel their murder and
the dishonouring of their wives and daughters. The lessons he
received took effect. The master, in due course, returned with
his valet to his estate. One morning, at six o’clock, when he was
watching from the door his slaves going to work, inquiring after
their welfare, and attending to those who were sick or unable
to work, this ungrateful youngster admitted two hired assassins by
a back door, who set upon the master and clave his head open
with a hatchet, subsequently pounding his body to a jelly with
a huge coffee pestle (a block of hard wood, some six feet long).
The three men were seized by those of the surrounding slaves
who realized how good a master they possessed, and were lodged
in gaol. There was a great commotion among the neighbouring
fazendeiros. They knew that the penalty of the law would never
be inflicted, and, gathering five hundred followers, the leaders
being masked, rode up to the prison early one morning, shot
down the guards, demanded the keys, dragged out the three
murderers, and lynched them.

This excellent young man, who was a martyr to the cause
of leniency, only a few days before his death (April, 1884) was
relating in Rio how a relation of his had been saved from the
shots of assassins. This man was also a kind master. One
evening, a small negro boy told him that his death was decided
on. He was in the habit of riding every night into a town to pay
visits ; the assassins were to wait for him at a certain point on the
road, concealed in the forest. He locked up the boy, and ordered
a slave, one of those implicated, to attend him on his ride. On
the road, he said he felt cold, and, taking off his white cotton
dust-coat, ordered the slave to give him the thick blue poncho that
the latter wore, and to put on the white coat. The slave refused.
The master then drew a revolver, and under compulsion effected
the change. He then ordered the slave to ride ahead, which, the
revolver being presented at his head, he most reluctantly did. On
nearing the ambush, the fazendeiro said, “ Gallop ahead, I will
follow.” On passing the spot where the assassins lay concealed,
a volley was fired at the man in the white coat, who fell dead ; the
master drew his horse up on his haunches, and galloped off by
another road.

SLAVERY.

287

These Abolitionists, according to all I hear, are the Socialists
and Nihilists of Brazil, and their influence among the slave
population is very great. Should a general rising of slaves occur,
the result might prove most disastrous, as the greater part of the
privates in the army are negroes or mulattoes, and the majority of the
freed blacks, at least in Rio, notoriously form the dregs and scum
of the population ; and, as probably they would all join, no house
or property would be safe. A man of the English-speaking race,
named Clapp, is one of the chief leaders of the Abolitionist party
in Rio ; he abuses the law of 1831. Sometime since, for instance,
he carried off consecutively two slaves, who were sent into Rio
every day by their master to sell fruit. On the first occasion, he
sent a note to the owner, stating that the slave wished to be free,
that he was valued at two hundred milreis, and that that sum was
paid into the Treasury. Many difficulties were raised, there was
great delay, and finally the master was obliged to give way with-
out receiving the money, while the slave was retained. A short
time afterwards, the second slave was kidnapped under similar
circumstances, and a criminal process was begun against the
owner for keeping a free man in slavery. The owner was im-
prisoned, and appealed, stating that the slave had been left to him
by will, and proved his assertion. The judgment was reversed by
the courts, but the slave was liberated, and the two hundred
milreis redemption money was never paid in either instance.

On the 25th of March, 1884, slavery was abolished in the pro-
vince of Ceara. The Rio News * says, “ The movement began
only fifteen months ago, the first municipality liberating its slaves
on the 1st of January, 1883. The new tax law of last November
greatly accelerated this progress, because it made slave-holding
impossible, the value of the slave being less than the tax.” A
week’s festival was held in Rio de Janeiro in honour of the
emancipation of Ceara. “ Large sums of money were realized
from donations and the proceeds of bazaars, several slaves were
liberated, and a movement set on foot to secure total emancipation
in the municipality of the imperial capital.”

I was informed in September, 1883, that there were then eight
or ten municipalities in Ceara without any slaves ; Fortaleza, the
* April 5, 1884.

288

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

capital town, having been freed on May 24, 1883. The Sociedade
Libertadora freed 122 slaves in one day in the towns of Baturite,
Acarapi, and Sao Francisco. There are some two hundred or
three hundred such societies in Brazil.

The gradual emancipation of Ceara had been carried on, as
elsewhere, before the total abolition was agreed to ; and I heard of
one slave-owner who died four years ago, and directed his heir-at-
law to free four hundred of his slaves in four years, which was
carried out in 1883.

On July 10, 1884, the vast province of Amazonas declared
that all their slaves were free; and on the 24th, in the first page
of the Gazeta da Tarde appeared, in letters more than an inch
long, the words AMAZON AS LIVRE — Amazons free. In a lead-
ing article that paper said, “ Abolition, considered from the highest
moral point of view, is the expiation of slavery ; it is the restora-
tion of national dignity, the completion of the independence of
the Brazilian people.” The Gazeta de Noticias of July 22nd
said —

“ Without violence, without disturbance of economic or social order, the pro-
vince of Amazonas has paid its tribute nobly and gallantly to liberty and
civilization, which shortly will restore, by prosperity and riches, the small
sacrifice she has made them. ... It is to Dr. Theodureto Souto that this
province owes, in a great measure, the advantage it has secured. . . . The
liberation of Amazonas, which by itself would be one of the most im-
portant facts of our contemporary history, has to-day a significance of far
greater importance ; it is one more irrefutable testimony that in regard
to the servile element it is not now possible to delay or to recede.”

It must, however, be remembered, when the northern pro-
vinces boast of being in advance of the southern as to abolition,
that a few years since some hundred thousand slaves were ex-
ported from the north and sold in the south.

The great difficulty in total abolition, where many slaves are
in question, is as to obtaining the necessary continuous labour in
the plantations. When the slaves are selected and freed gradu-
ally, or educated up to freedom, they remain afterwards as
labourers on the old estates, and the work is not hindered. But
when compulsory labour is suddenly removed, the natural in-
dolence of the native asserts itself ; and, finding that one or two
days’ work in the week supplies enough money for him to keep

SLA VER Y.

289

soul and body together, the free black becomes independent, and
prefers to sit on his heels, and smoke, and talk, or sleep. There
is a vast difference between the pure negro and those of mixed
blood. From what I have seen I should consider it almost a
miracle, under existing circumstances and surroundings, for the
negro to have any proper spirit in him 3 but with those who have
an infusion of white blood it is otherwise, their intellectual powers
appear much greater, and they have some ambition to get on in
the world.

The new Cabinet, who accepted the portfolios on June 6,
1884, lost no time in dealing with the slavery question. On
June 25, a Cabinet Council was held, the Premier, Senhor Souza
Dantas, presiding. The points under consideration may be
summed up under five heads : — 1. The localization of slave
trading. 2. The increase of the Emancipation Fund. 3. Classifi-
cation and arbitration of value. 4. Liberation of old slaves.
5. The work of freed slaves.

On the 15th of July, Senhor Souza Dantas presented his bill to
the Chambers. The bill was divided under five heads. The first
item dealt with old slaves, proposing that “ the slave of sixty
years of age, attained before or after this law, should acquire ipso
facto his liberty.” The second item dealt with registration, re-
quiring “ declaration of name, colour, age, condition, nature,
filiation, capability of work, profession, and value,” allowing a
year for such registration, “ such slaves as are not registered in
that term being considered free.” The third item dealt with the
Fund of Emancipation, a value of eight hundred milreis being
allowed for slaves of less than thirty years of age, seven hundred
milreis from thirty to thirty-nine, six hundred milreis from forty
to forty-nine, and four hundred milreis for quinquagenarians. This
item provided also for the tax to be paid by legatees who obtained
slaves, ranging from ten per cent, to direct heirs, and twenty per
cent, to brothers, up to fifty per cent, to strangers, half these taxes
being charged on transactions effected while the owners were
alive. The fourth item dealt with the localization of slaves, de-
claring that the slave should not be removed from the province
where he resides, or he would gain liberty. The fifth item
dealt with terms of contract for the labour of free blacks.

u

290

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

That day’s session was, as might be expected, a very stormy
one, and, in the course of the debate, His Excellency the Premier
stated that he would vote for a project of immediate total
abolition, should such an idea be started.

The next morning there appeared an article in the Journal de
Commercio , from which I make the following extracts : —

“ One more grand step on the path of progress and civilization. One more
great man for the national pantheon. The 15th of July, 1884, will be
inscribed among the most glorious days of Brazilian history : for Senhor
Dantas, it is the date of his obtaining immortality. To two eminent Bahian
statesmen the history of the country will assign one antithesis : the
Visconde do Rio Branco obtained that none should be born a slave in
Brazil ; to Dantas is the glory that none should die a slave after half a
century of work. It only remains, to complete the evolution of abolition-
ism, that none should live a slave. To those who consider Brazil as a
great coffee plantation, who see in the slave only an instrument for pro-
ducing coffee ; to those who have no tears for the sufferings of their
fellow-creatures ; — to all these it will appear a slight thing, the hope of not
dying in slavery, of not relieving till death the chains of the captive. . . .
But to those who aspire to see their country regenerated, noble, and grand,
placed among the first nations of the world ; to those who are convinced
of the injustice of slavery — for, in spite of all, one cannot take away from
the slave the quality of being man ; to those who have compassion and
charity ; — to all these there is a great compensation in the certainty of not
dying aged and yet still in slavery. ... In good time the Senator
Dantas came into power, and he soon had courage to undertake his
glorious mission. Yesterday he redeemed well the engagements he made
in the sight of his country and of humanity. Thus the evolution of
abolition proceeds majestically on its way — Rursus et ult7-a (each time
more and better).”

The Gazeta de Noticias of July 20, said —

“ As to our friends in the Government, it is needless to say that it is to their
interest that the question of confidence should rest on this one point in the
ministerial programme, which constitutes the raison d'etre of the Cabinet,
and which was the reason of the accession to power of Senhor Dantas.
This is, in fact, the idea with which the Liberal party intends to plead in
the future election, to stand or fall ; and it has become the centre of
national agitation in Parliament to stand by it, and to press on by all
means to its accomplishment the imminent reorganization of the country,
or to be beaten.”

Dr. J. Nabuco, an ardent Abolitionist, writing to Le Bresil , of
Paris, July 22, says —

SLAVERY.

291

“ The conduct of Senhor Dantas has been dignified and loyal. The project of
the law for the emancipation of slaves over sixty years of age is a very
small concession, but we are bound to accept it, because it signifies the
emancipation of Africans imported after 1831, who have been fraudulently
registered as of greater age than was really the fact.”

While this interesting matter was being debated, ,1 left Brazil
(July 28) ; but I find, from the Anglo- Brazilian Times of August
the 1 st, that —

“ A ministerial crisis occurred on the 28th of July. After the introduction of
the Government bill on Slavery, the forty-six Conservative deputies and
the Liberal minority that seceded because of that bill, finding that they
had a majority, . . . had been from time to time defeating the Govern-
ment on matters of little importance, which the ministers and their
supporters declined to consider Cabinet questions, declaring that they
would accept the challenge only on the Government measure upon slavery.
On the 28th, however, the Liberal opposition undertook a direct motion
of want of confidence, before the bill on Slavery could be brought up for
discussion upon the 1st of August, the object in thus anticipating that
debate being apparently to evade direct reference to the real issue, the
slave question.”

After beating about the bush —

“ Senhor Louren<;o de Albuquerque, while frankly acknowledging that the
Government measure on slavery was the sole reason for the secession of
the Liberals, made a direct motion of general want of confidence, not
mentioning slavery ; but Senhor Penido, another member of the Liberal
opposition, at once capped the motion with one declaring that the Cham-
ber disapproved of the bill, and therefore denied its confidence to the
Government, which last motion was adopted by fifty-nine to fifty-two.
In consequence of this vote, the President of the Council obtained an
audience of his Majesty the Emperor the same afternoon, and received
orders to convoke the Council of State to megt at the palace at 8 p.m. for
consultation on the advisability of a dissolution. Of the eleven council-
lors present only three were for dissolution ; but, as was expected, his
Majesty decided on not permitting the Ministry to retire, and on con-
ceding to it a decree of dissolution of the Chamber of Deputies. On the
30th, the President of the Council informed the Chamber of Deputies that
as his Majesty had consented to the Ministry’s request for dissolution of
the Chamber, after passing the budget for the current year, he hoped that
the means of administration would be voted with the least possible delay.
The Conservative leader did not refuse, and the leaders of the Liberal
opposition declared that the Government could count upon their votes.”

The dissolution took place on September 3, and the election
was to be fought on the lines of the great issue now before the

292

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

country, viz. “Whether the emancipation policy of the Dantas
ministry, as set forth in the Government Slave Enfranchisement
Bill, shall receive the proper endorsement.” * The Anglo-Brazihati
Times , a little later, says —

“ What the result of this appeal to the electorate will prove it is as yet too
soon to vaticinate, inasmuch as it seems certain that, in the coming
struggle, the old lines of demarcation between Conservative and Liberal
will, to a great degree, be obliterated, and the issue will practically turn
upon the question of sympathy for, or hostility to, the Government Slave
Bill.”

The Times of September 8, 1884, published a leader on the
Emancipation question, but it took an utterly erroneous view of
the two parties — Abolitionists and Emancipators — stating that
the former wish to secure the slave gradual but full freedom, with
efficient protection pending his definite manumission ; and the
latter, while setting him nominally free, would keep him in cleverly
forged bonds. The Times refuses to believe the statements in a
very able and lengthy letter by Mr. Walter J. Hammond, which
appeared in its pages on September 3, and, taking as its text the
then lately celebrated jubilee of the abolition of slavery in British
dominions, speaks of slavery and the present crisis in Brazil in a
manner which displays either absolute ignorance or wilful dis-
regard of the real position of the various interests under con-
sideration.

The result of the elections was the return of the Liberal party
to power, with Senhor Dantas as Premier, who had stated, in
February, that before he had accepted office his own views with
regard to the institution of slavery were harmonized with those of '
the Emperor. The new Parliament assembled the 8th of March,
1885. The Emperor’s speech announced the presentation of a
Government bill for facilitating the Emancipation of slaves, and
commended the measure to the earnest consideration of the
representatives of the people.

The South American Journal , f in a leader, said —

‘ 1 There are, however, two opinions on this, as on every other subject. Though,
practically, all are agreed in desiring the removal of the blot of slavery. . . .

* The South American Journal, September 6, 1884.
f March 21, 1885.

SLAVERY.

293

some are most anxious to hasten its disappearance, and are even prepared
to vote for its immediate abolition ; whereas others, notably the great
planters, are perhaps naturally adverse to any sudden dislocation or dis-
turbance of the existing order of things, being on the whole satisfied with
the results of the free-birth law. The Conservatives, almost to a man, are
advocates of gradual emancipation ; while the Liberals take opposite
ground, maintaining that slavery ought not to be simply permitted to die
of old age. They call for legislation for the earlier removal of this offence
from their midst. But they are not unanimous. Vested interests have
driven in a wedge and destroyed the unity of the party of action. Pocket
is urging its old war against principle, with an advocacy that makes many
political perverts. It is not, therefore, surprising to the students of human
nature to know that the recent elections in Brazil have accentuated this
fact, and that an appreciable number of Liberal deputies have been
returned to vote against the policy of the Dantas Cabinet, upon which
appeal was made to the sense of the country.”

It was not, therefore, expected that the Dantas Cabinet would
remain long in power, and, as was the case soon afterwards with
the Gladstone Cabinet in England, it was overthrown by a trifling
matter — upon a vote of censure and want of confidence proposed
in consequence of some individual grievance. The vote was
passed by fifty-two votes against fifty. The South American
Journal ,* in an article in which it shows the similarity between
the two defeats, says —

“In both instances, however, it is evident that the real causes of defeat must
be recognized in the existence of profound dissatisfaction on the part of
the majority of the members of the respective Parliaments of Brazil and
the United Kingdom.”

As regards Brazil —

“The vote at Rio de Janeiro really meant that the representatives of the
Brazilian people are not prepared to endorse the energetic emancipation
policy of the Dantas Ministry.”

Here the parallelism closed, as the Liberal Government of
Dantas was succeeded by another Liberal Government, with
Senator Saraiva as Premier. The Conservatives held a meeting
on May 6, and decided to receive proposals of the Saraiva
Government — com moderdfao — with moderation.

On May 12, the new Ministry presented their bill for the

June 13, 1885.

294

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

gradual extinction of slavery. The following is an abstract of its
principal clauses : — *

I. A new registration of all slaves under sixty years of age (about one million),

with age, occupation, etc.

II. Fixed maximum valuations for the several classes, grouped according to
age — $1000 being allowed for slaves fifteen to twenty years of age (there
are no slaves under fourteen years), and $200 for sexagenarians ; the other
values being the same as in Senhor Dantas’s bill ; the value of females
to be 25 per cent. less. Slaves to cease being worked after sixty-five
years of age. Freed men over sixty to be supported by their masters.

III. Emancipation of slaves by the Fund and by their own savings.

IV. Formation of the Emancipation Fund : (a) by existing means ; (6) by an
increase of five per cent, on all general taxes and duties, except export ;
(c) by annual emission of Government bonds of $6,000,000, at five per
cent.

V. -VII. The application and distribution of the Emancipation Fund.

VIII. The localization of slaves.

IX. , X. Domicile and labour of freed men.

XIII. Emancipations by will declared absolutely valid.

In the Times of June 19 appeared a letter from the Chevalier
A. de Souza Correa, Secretary of the Brazilian Legation, on the
Saraiva bill, which was commented upon in a most deplorable,
unjust, and revolutionary leading article. It was written in the
same strain as the previous leader of September 8, regarding the
subject through the prejudice-darkened spectacles of the British
and Foreign Anti-slavery Society, whose secretary, Mr. Charles
H. Allen, had, on June 4 and 5, written a few panic-stricken lines,
which appeared in the Times. The Chevalier de Souza Correa,
after giving an epitome of the bill, and referring to the Emanci-
pation Funds in particular, concludes —

“ In that way, and aided by numerous private manumissions, granted gra-
tuitously, Senhor Saraiva expects to hasten emancipation in Brazil, so that
in 1892 there would be no more slaves in our country ; and, in the mean-
time, the great industrial revolution shall have taken place with as little
friction as possible.

The Gazeta de Noticias states that the number of slaves
in Brazil at the beginning of the year (1885) is estimated at

* Condensed from translation of the text of the bill. — South American
Journal, July 11, 1885.

SLAVERY.

295

1,177,022 ; of whom 623,274 are males, 553,748 females, and
87,492 are over sixty years of age.*

The extraordinary session of the Brazilian Legislature having
closed on May 19, the ordinary session opened on the following
day, when the Emperor, referring in his speech to the Emancipa-
tion question, said — ■

“ The gradual extinction of slavery, which was the special object of the extra-
ordinary session, should continue to merit the greatest solicitude on your
part. This question, which is bound up with the deepest interests of
Brazil, demands a settlement which shall tranquilize our agricultural
classes. I commit it, therefore, to your wisdom and patriotism.”

Dr. Ernesto Ferreira Franga, Advocate to the Council of
State, in a letter dated Rio de Janeiro, August 22, which appeared
in the Times of September 21, points out the difference between
the bills of Dantas and Saraiva. He says, “ The Cabinet of
Senhor Dantas conceded indemnification as a favour, and that
of Senhor Saraiva as a right.”

It is needless to refer in detail to the events which followed.
The following telegrams will be sufficient : —

Rio de Janeiro, August 15.

Senhor Saraiva, the Premier, and the other members of the Cabinet have
collectively tendered their resignation to the Emperor, owing to the
hostility displayed towards their general policy by the majority of the
Chamber of Deputies.

Rio de Janeiro, August 19.

Baron de Cotegipe, one of the Conservative leaders, has been charged by the
Emperor with the formation of a new Cabinet, and has accepted the

task.

Rio de Janeiro, August 20.

Baron de Cotegipe has succeeded in forming a Conservative Cabinet. The
Baron is Premier and Minister for Foreign Affairs.

Dr. Ferreira Franqa concludes the letter referred to above as
follows —

“ As I write, a political change has taken place. The Baron de Cotegipe is at
the head of a new Cabinet, belonging to the Conservative party, after
Liberal administrations for between seven or eight years. Senhor Saraiva,
having passed the Slavery bill through the Chamber, aided by a coalition of

* For further particulars of numbers in each province, see South American
Journal, May 16, 1885.

296

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Liberals and Conservatives, considered it improper as a Liberal to remain
in power, there not being a Liberal majority in the Chamber, and it being
certain that the bill would meet with no opposition in the Senate.”

[Reuter’s Telegram.]

Rio Janeiro, September 25.

The Government bill for the gradual abolition of slavery has been passed (24th)
by both the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies.

On September 28, 1885, the fourteenth anniversary of the
passing of the Rio Branco law, the Emancipation of Slaves Act,
received the Imperial sanction ; it is known as the Saraiva law,
the principal items of which I have already given. Within ten
years it is supposed that slavery will have ceased to exist in
Brazil. Before long it will be seen that a great victory has been
gained ; and although the Act is not perfect, and it cannot be
expected that Abolitionists will be pleased with all its details, yet
a sudden revolution or entire dislocation of the present order of
things has been avoided, and the long-desired aim of freeing this
vast empire as speedily as may be from the curse of slavery is
now ensured by a gradual and peaceful process. Deo graiias.

Rio de Janeiro, January 15, 1886.

The elections to the Brazilian Chambers have resulted very favourably to the
Conservatives, who will have a majority in the new Chamber. The
position of parties is thus reversed, the Conservatives having been in
a minority in the former Chamber.

The return of a Conservative Ministry to power in September
last restored confidence, and I am informed that the state of
affairs generally has since then greatly improved, while, with
a Conservative majority in the Chambers, the outlook for the
future is very satisfactory.

The Origin of Savage Communities or Tribes by
Degradation.

Some time ago, when studying evolution from the standpoint
of the Christian religion, I was especially led to consider how
vastly more numerous are examples of degradation and degenera-
tion than are those suggestive of evolution, or the doctrine of a
lower form producing a higher.

ORIGIN OF SAVAGE COMMUNITIES.

297

From generalizations I descended into details, and took one
family, that of the Crustacea, wherein I found that the general
conclusions to which I had been brought were proved in the
most convincing manner in that family.

It is impossible to do more, in this short note, than give a few
instances of the application of the theory of degradation to the
human species.

I contend that a man is a family with only one genus — Homo.
In some regions of physical science, at least, there is a certain
scope for speculation ; but, unless we are to throw over one of the
most important statements of revealed religion, we must believe
that God created man upright. Therefore, the existing tribes or
communities of human beings who are in the lowest condition as
to physical and intellectual development, or as to religious or
moral ideas, must represent degradation. The Duke of Argyll, in
“ Unity of Nature,” says, that as the first men could not have been
cannibals or indulged in infanticide, or the race could not have
been increased, the existence of these two customs alone proves
degeneration.

The most ancient fossil remains of man that have been found
exhibit a very high type, both in physical development and intel-
lectual capacity. There are no remains at present discovered
which display as low types of the human race as those that now
exist in Australia, Tierra del Fuego,* or the bushmen of South
Africa, who are degenerated Hottentots. The fossil skulls, found
in the limestone caves f near the valley of the Rio Paraopeba,
Minas Geraes, are of the same type as the Indians of to-day, who
are now, owing to the Portuguese settlement, being pushed away
into restricted and distant areas. A condition of high mental
development, which tha fossil men present to us, does not neces-
sarily represent a correspondingly advanced condition of civiliza-
tion, refinement, or progress of the arts and sciences. It denotes

* That even the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego can be raised, as they
have been, through the labours of missionaries, Mr. Darwin has freely acknow-
ledged. The name Tierra del Fuego was given by the discoverers, who, on
approaching it, saw numerous fires in the native camps. This in itself points
to a certain status in development far above that of the most intelligent animals.

t Some of the remains of bones found in these caves are to be seen at the
Natural History Museum, South Kensington, London.

298

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

merely the possession of an intelligent will, capable of develop-
ment, and enabled to profit by experience.

I maintain that man -was created noble and pure, with vast
and untold capabilities. Since his creation, man, left to himself,
has but degenerated. Soon came that mysterious catastrophe
which we call the Fall ; and synchronously the promise of a
wonderful Redemption, which, in course of time, was effected.
Subsequent on the Fall came degeneration — degradation of the
antediluvian world ; degradation of the Israelites, as described
in the Old Testament; degradation of the Hindoos from the
original standard of their religion, with lofty aspirations and ideals ;
degradation of Mohammedanism, etc. ; degradation of Christianity.

The same truth confronts us in the records of the rocks. We
find always that new forms were introduced in their highest state,
full of life and vigour. They worked out the object of their
creation, and then either became extinct on the introduction of
higher forms, or remain to the present day degraded, degenerated,
depauperated, and comparatively scantily represented.

This is the origin of all savage tribes. As the struggle to gain
the necessaries for bare existence increases, so man degenerates.
Driven out by stronger tribes, the weaker are forced to live under
the most uncongenial conditions, e.g. the Eskimos, Australians,
Bushmen, Tierra del Fuegians. These all now live in countries
the most unfavourable, with surroundings the least conducive to
existence, let alone to advancement.

Mr. Drummond, in “ Natural Law in the Spiritual World,” has
pointed out that death means “ the want of correspondence with
the environment ; ” and that “ the organism is but a part, nature
is the complement.” The nations of the temperate zones have,
at least, an environment conducive to progress — grasses which
produce food, e.g. wheat ; animals capable of domestication ; a
climate where excessive labour is, at least, possible during a pro-
longed period. The four people I have referred to have none of
these advantages, and so it is with the Indians on the Amazons.

On the introduction of a civilized community into the midst of
uncivilized nations, the latter cannot come into correspondence
with their environment ; they either become extinct, as in the case
of the North American Indians, who are a race of warlike hunters,

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

299

with no literature, but with a beautiful and complex language, or
they become and continue a subjected and servile race, like the
negroes or the Malays.

I came across, in Brazil, white men (the descendants of the
Portuguese), negroes, and a few tame Indians ; all of them
Christians, living together under parallel conditions. Of the
three races, though the whites are the most civilized, the negroes
are physically the finest race and the most prolific. I met with
some mulattoes, who were not only very intelligent, but also most
scientific, and especially skilled in modern languages.

Weights and Measures.

In Rio de Janeiro, and in other places which are more or
less connected with foreign countries, the kilogrammetric and
litric systems obtain ; but up country, as I have repeatedly men-
tioned, the old weights and measures are still in force. For
small weights the kilogram and its divisions are used, but for
larger quantities the aroba is employed. In measures of capacity,
the litre is occasionally used, but in general the other measures,
which are detailed in the table below. In the stores, cloths and
other products are measured by metres ; but distances are always
described in leagues, half leagues or quarter leagues. In land
measurement, alqueires, bragas, and palmas are in use.*

LONG MEASURE,
i Palma = 9 Inches.

1 Covado = o '66 Metres = 2 Feet 2| Inches.

1 Braga = 2*20 = 7 ,, 2\ ,,

1 Legoa, or Legua 6,666*66 Metres = 4 Miles 246 Yards.

SQUARE MEASURE.

0*0484 sq. Metres = 1 Palma.

o‘4350

°*7744

„ = 1 Covado.
,, = 1 Jarda.

I *21

.. = 25

Palmas = 1

Vara.

4*84

,, = 100

» = 4

,, = 1

Braga.

1,089

„ = 22,500

,, = 900

„ = 225

,, = 1 Prata.

1.936

„ = 40,000

,, = 1,600

,, = 400

,, = i Geira.

48,000

,, = 1,000,000

,, = 40,000

,, = 10,000

,, = 25 ,, = 1 Alqueire.

150,000

,, =312,500,000

„ =12,500,000

,, =3,125,000

„ =7812*5 ,, =312*5 ,, = i Ses-
maria, = 1 sq. League.

* I am indebted to Mr. George Maunders, C.E., of Ouro Preto, for notes
from which I have compiled most of these tables.

3oo

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CUBIC MEASURE.

0’9976 English Quarts ')
o'2494 Eng. Imp. Gall, j
i ‘9 English Quarts
I English Peck
I English Bushel nearly

i *io litres = i Prato.

2-13 „ = i'94 ,, = i Medida.

9-0675 ,, = 8'24 ,, = 4'25 — 1 Quarto.

36-27 ,, = 32-96 ,, = 17 „ = 1 Alquiere.

WINE MEASURE.

i Barril = 21 Litres = 4-63 Gallons.

AVOIRDUPOIS.

I Libra Brasileira = 1-03 Pounds.

1 Aroba = 16 Kilos. = 35-2 Pounds.

65 Tonnelades = 65,000 Kilos. = 64 English Tons.

WEIGHTS FOR DIAMONDS.

4 Graos = 1 Quilate.

24 ,, =6 „ = 1 Escrupulo.

72 ,, = 18 ,, =3 ,, = 1 Oitava.

1 Oitava = 1 Q-- Drachm Avoirdupois.

104 Oitavas = 1 Pound Troy.

Captain Burton * gives a list of “ the old Portuguese gold
weights still preserved.” They are used in gold mining.

“22 Grains = 1 Vintem.

5 Vintens = 1 Tostao or Tustao.

32 Vintens = I Oitava (= i-Jg- Drachm Avoirdupois).

8 Oitavas = 1 Onga or Ounce.

8 Ounces = 1 Marco.

2 Marcos = 1 Pound.”

A slight discrepancy will be observed between this table and
the preceding, as in the former 7 2 graos make up the oitava, while
in the latter 80 grains are specified. It may be that the grains are
not the same as the graos ; but as to this I have no information.

The Decimal System.

The question as to whether England should introduce the
decimal or metric system is one which is much debated. It is
asserted that our present mode of reckoning is fragrantly un-
scientific. I cannot deal with the subject in detail, but may
state that I consider the metre as a standard to be far too large.
The foot is much more convenient.

* “Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 205.

COINAGE AND CURRENCY.

301

After a year’s use of the metric system in Brazil, all my work
being carried out thus, as the calculations, estimates, etc., had
to be submitted to the Government, I do not consider that
system a convenient one, especially for small quantities ; but am
of opinion that our duodecimal method has the advantage, both
by facility of expression and simplicity in working.

The ease with which vulgar fractions can be worked out
mentally is an advantage which the decimal system does not
possess. I have never yet met any one who could perform the
same feats of mental arithmetic with decimals that can be
executed by fractions.

I was glad to find by the remarks of Sir Frederick Bramwell
(President), at a meeting of the Institution of Civil Engineers
(January, 1885), that he is in favour of our retaining our frac-
tional system. As thus, my unworthy conclusions are endorsed
by a man not only of the greatest experience, but possessed of
a far-seeing, comprehensive, and scientific intellect.

Coinage and Currency.

It may be asserted as a fact that the only coinage current
in Brazil is copper. In Rio, the money consists of nickel tokens
of one hundred reis and two hundred reis, some lately coined
copper pieces value forty reis and twenty reis, and notes from
five hundred reis upwards. Up country there is an abundance
of the old copper eighty reis and forty reis pieces, issued in 1829,
to which I shall refer later. Captain Burton remarks, “ The older
travellers were obliged to hlive a mule for the carriage of this
Spartan coinage.” It reminds one of the old time when Naaman
“ bound two talents of silver in two bags, . . . and laid them
upon two of his servants.” *

The coinage in circulation is as follows : — The old eighty reis
and forty reis pieces of copper (i| inches and if inches in
diameter), most of them overstamped with their present values of
forty reis and twenty reis respectively ; the neat modern forty reis
and twenty reis pieces, about the size of our penny and half-
penny ; nickel tokens of one hundred reis and two hundred reis
(iTV inches and iTs? inches in diameter); and silver is represented
* 2 Kings v. 23.

302

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

by two hundred reis and five hundred reis pieces, about the
dimensions and weight of our sixpence and shilling. Of these
latter, during the whole time I was in Brazil, I only possessed
eight of the two hundred reis and three of the five hundred
reis coins, which I preserved as curiosities. I have also seen one
milreis and one two-milreis in silver, but only one of each, which
were kept by the possessor as something extraordinary. The
paper notes range from five hundred reis to five hundred mil-
reis (five hundred reis, i milreis, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 30, 50, 100,
200 milreis, etc.). The filth of these greasy notes, as a rule,
up to ten milreis, defies description.

The Government and the Bank of Brazil, which issues its own
notes, are constantly calling in the older issues ; series so and so,
or estampa so and so, green paper, white paper, etc. If the notes
be not presented by a certain time, five per cent., or ten per cent.,
or more, is deducted from their value, and after a given period
they are valueless. Money matters are consequently very com-
plicated, especially up country, where one may never hear of the
proposed call until it is time to send the notes in. I suffered
much inconvenience in paying my men, owing to this abominable
practice, a method which has been set to work to add to the
coffers of an impecunious treasury.

This paper currency is not redeemable, any one going to the
bank or to the treasury with a bagful of notes to realize being
presented with freshly issued notes.

The nomenclature of the money is different up country to
what it is in Rio. The 40-reis pieces, new and old, are termed
“ cobres,” coppers. The “ pataca ” is also a very common name ;
its value is 320 reis. Every small sum is there counted by cobres,
patacas, or testoes (a testab is 100 reis). The milreis is often
called “ deztoes ” ( i.e . ten testoons). In Rio, small sums are often
reckoned by vintens (a vintem is 20 reis).

Mr. John Armitage, in his “ History of Brazil,” * refers to the
depreciation of coinage in 1829, and “the enormous issue of
copper ” (which coins, as I have stated, form the bulk of the
currency up country). He says, “This copper was, even in 1829,

* “ The History of Brazil from 1808 to 1831,” 2 vols. Smith, Elder, and
Co., 1836.

COINAGE AND CURRENCY.

303

current to any amount at three times its intrinsic value, and was
freely circulated in all the various provinces of the empire. The
inhabitants looked only to the amount stamped on the coin, with-
out reflecting that if melted down it would not be worth a third of
the sum for which they received it. Of course, it was impossible
that the deception could be carried on for ever, yet it was an
expedient for helping tde Government out of their existing diffi-
culties. . . . During the years 1828 and 1829, nearly six thousand
contos (i.e. six millions of milreis) of this base copper were coined
and thrown into circulation.”

The Government was then in difficulties, and it has never been
otherwise. It is in vain for interested persons to contend against
facts, and state that Brazil is increasing in prosperity. The
expenditure fifty-five years ago exceeded the revenue — it does so
to-day ; and new loans are continually floated, externally and
internally, to pay the interest on former liabilities, and on
guaranteed undertakings, such as railways, sugar factories, etc.

The value of the milreis is steadily decreasing. When I
arrived at Rio de Janeiro in June, 1883, I exchanged at 2ifz/. to
the milreis; about January, 1884, it reached 22\d. for a short time;
but in June and July, it was down to 2od. ; on April 26, 1885, it
was 17-gd. “Travellers assure us that in 1801 this (milreis),
the practical unit of value, was worth 5.?. 7 \d. In 1815 it
represented six francs twenty-five centimes. In 1835-36 it was
from 30^. to 32^.” Gardner states that in 1838 it was 30 d.
Captain Burton says, “ When I landed at Pernambuco (June, 1865)
it was at par — 27 d. It hai in 1867 fallen to 13!*/. [that was

owing to the Paraguayan War] ; and under actual circumstances
there is apparently nothing to prevent it sinking, like the dollar of
the South American republics, to twopence.” * Mr. H. W. Bates
states f that the current money on the Amazons varied much
during the eleven years of his stay. “ At first, nothing but copper
coins and Brazilian treasury notes, the smallest representing one
thousand reis (2 s. 3 d.), were seen. Afterwards (1852-56), with
the increase of the india-rubber trade, a large amount of specie
was imported — American gold coins, Spanish and Mexican dollars,

* Captain Burton’s “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 91.

t “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. ii. p. 75.

304

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

and English sovereigns. These were the commonest medium of
exchange in Para and on the Lower Amazons, until india-rubber
fell suddenly in price in 1855, when the gold again quickly dis-
appeared. About the year 1857, new silver coin, issued by the
Brazilian Government, was introduced — elegant pieces of money
of convenient values, answering nearly to our sixpenny, shilling,
and two-shilling pieces.”

The Financial Condition of Brazil.

In reading statistics of foreign moneys there is always the
difficulty of realizing at a glance what the sums represent in
English currency. In Brazilian money this difficulty may be
reduced to a minimum by taking the milreis ($) at 2\d., so that
the English equivalent in pounds sterling will be approximately
one-tenth of the amount in milreis.

The few remarks which I wish to make on this subject I will
defer till the end of the note, and therefore, without further pre-
amble, plunge at once in medias res, and give some extracts from
a pamphlet, “ On the Budget of the Empire since its Foundation,”
published in Rio by a senator.* In his preface, he states that
“ an estimate is the fundamental basis of the life of man and of
nations ; without order in the regulation of expenses, confusion
will be inevitable, and these will not be in harmony with the
income. The first care, therefore, in arranging the budget is to
attend to the receipts , and then distribute the expenses. . . . Un-
fortunately, this is not the course followed since the foundation of
the empire, which, in spite of not having received the value of
heavy sacrifices of life and money, has — ignoring these — caused
extraordinary expenses, which not only weigh down the budgets,
as also the future of the nation, but necessitate stretching out the
hand of a creditor to fulfil its engagements. ... I shall examine
into the truth of the budgets, so often praised in the ministerial
programmes, and always tricked ( burlada ) in their realization.”

After briefly reviewing the financial conditions of England, the
United States, France, and Russia, Senhor Carreira comes to
Brazil. In his comparison of estimates, the value of the milreis is

* “ O Orgamento do Imperio desde sua fundagao,” colleccionada pelo
Senador Liberato de Castro Carreira. Rio de Janeiro, 1883.

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL. 305

taken at 27 d. Beginning by a condensed statement concerning
the proclamation of independence, the early days of the empire,
the finances, and some of her brilliant financial statesmen, he then
proceeds to give a classification of the Budgets from 1823.

I wish especially to draw attention to the ever-increasing
receipts, as well as to the rapid growth of expenditure.

Receipts. Deficit.

Milreis. Milreis.

In 1823 3,802,434 .. 900,000

,, 1827 11,025,427 ... 816,863

,, 1829 .. 13,808,928 ... 5,462,717

Senhor Carreira then enters into details of various changes
which took place, loans issued, etc. A table of the various internal
and foreign loans will be found at the end of this article.

Receipts.

Deficit.

Balance.

Milreis.

Milreis.

Milreis.

Jan. 1830 to June 1831 (i£ years)

17,644,322

3.535.793

June 1831 to 1835 (4 years) ...

60,826,064

12,362,732

1835-1840 (5 years)

72,202,733

18,137,131

1840-1845 ,,

94,277,747

36,672,586

1845-1850

132,922,434

625,428

1850-1855 ,,

176,376,689

6,230,993

1855-1860 „

228,265,099

8,766,521

1860-1865 >>

262,957,589

39,291,244

“ All the Budgets of this last quinquennial were liquidated by
deficits, and although this is scarcely a praiseworthy proceeding,
especially as it is the usual occurrence, then at least it was
justified by the disastrous yid terrible war which, for six years,
was carried on with Paraguay, consuming precious lives and a
vast capital, which, applied to the improvement of the country,
would have vastly assisted its progress and advance. The ex-
penses of the Paraguayan War amounted to 613,183,262 milreis,
which, constituting a debt from that nation, will require a long
time for its repayment.* To meet the deficits, loans were
opened to the amount of 23,995,849 milreis, beside the emission
of paper currency.”

Milreis. Milreis.

1865-70 Receipts ... 376,891,018 Deficit ... 324,308,486

Besides extraordinary loans of 297,901,467 milreis, paper money
was again issued to the extent of 23,389,505 milreis.

* In 1885 this debt has been reduced to 256,049 milreis.

X

3°6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL

Milreis.

Milreis.

Deficit ... 56,612,024
208,226,626

1870-75 Receipts ... 514,253,712
1875-80 „ ... 537,447.569

“ This was again liquidated by ‘ deficits,’ to supply which the
Treasury issued extraordinary credits of 194,252,405 milreis,
which were made up by a fresh emission of paper currency,
apolicies of public debt, and a new national loan was opened,
payment in gold, by the decree of July 19, 1879, to the amount
of 50 ,000,000 milreis. In 1875, another loan of .£5,000,000 had
been contracted in London, at the price of 96^, with interest at
five per cent., giving a nominal value of .£5,301,200, producing
47,122,366 milreis.” About the time this pamphlet was pub-
lished, another loan (1883) of £4,000,000 was issued, paying
four and a half per cent, interest. A further loan of £6,000,000,
5 per cent, bonds, at 95 per cent., was brought out March, 1886.

Senhor Carreira continues, “ In these five years (1875-1880)
two principal causes influenced the augmentation of expenses.
First, the calamitous period through which the northern provinces
passed, chastened by three years of drought, which, beside the
misfortune of losing thousands of lives, took 61,552,915 milreis
from the public coffers; of this amount 30,814,136 milreis was
spent in the province of Ceara, which was also assisted on a
large scale by public charity. The second cause was the under-
taking of public works, amongst which was that of increasing the
canal for conveying water from the Rio do Ouro, authorized by
the decree of September 22, 1875 ; and others, for the provision
of water for the capital of the empire, on which 23,524,637
milreis were spent, a work which is not yet completed, and
which will doubtless demand more expenditure in forthcoming
Budgets.” *

After describing the various ways in which the moneys ex-
pended on colonists have been entered in the Budgets, Senhor
Carreira states that the total expenditure under this head up to
1880 amounts to 48,683,521 milreis, “a sacrifice from which the
country has not derived the advantages it hoped for. Several
methods were tried in this work — all ineffectual — to produce what
was desired, so that, at length the Government was convinced of the

* I have referred to the new reservoir, which I saw being constructed.

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL. 307

inutility of official or paid colonization, limiting itself to favouring
spontaneous colonization with a grant for a limited period, and
facilitating emigration or settlement (internagao ou collocagao).” *
After entering into particulars of the foreign and home debt,
Senhor Carreira states that “The deficit is represented by the
general debt of the empire to the amount of 660,366,200 mil-
reis ; and paper currency, which is also a debt , to the amount of
189,199,591 milreis. No doubt such a debt as 560,000,000 of mil-
reis (^56,000,000), which presses upon the responsibility of the
Treasury, is enough to make one unquiet ; it is money which it is
necessary to return to those who lent it under certain conditions,
with which it was received. . . . Confiding in the annual increase
of the receipts, annulled by the increasing expenditure, the de-
faulting Budgets are charged with credits beyond the estimates
and extraordinary resources of the Treasury, such as deposits of
economic trusts, the money of orphans, and not unfrequently, the
pernicious custom of paper currency, and the credit to raise loans
either national or foreign.

* Immigration. The system hitherto pursued by the Minister of Agri-
culture appears to have been on the happy-go-lucky style. There is, no
doubt, a grand field for immigrants ; but it would, at least, be advisable for the
Governments of the various countries who wish to encourage some of their
fellow-countrymen in emigrating to Brazil to combine in requiring certain
guaranteed legal rights, such as those, for instance, mentioned in the Rio News,
of October 5, 1885 : —

“ I. The grant of every civil and political right enjoyed by the Brazilians.

“ II. Full religious liberty.

“ III. Local government, uniform taxation, and exemption from the unjust
competition of slave-labour.

“IV. A definite system of land surveys, unrestricted choice in selection of
lands, low prices, registry of titles, abolition of six per cent, tax on
transfers, and full legal protection of all property rights.

“ V. Abolition of export taxes, and a uniform tax on land.

“VI. A reduction in the transportation rates, together with a public highway
system, to facilitate the profitable marketing of agricultural products.
“VII. An effective public school system.

“ Let it be once known among the emigrating people of Europe that there are
good homes to be procured in Brazil on easy terms, that their lives and
property here are secure against any and all usurpation, that a livelihood
here is easily obtained, and that their children will have all the oppor-
tunities for education and advancement that can be found in any other
new country, let this be known, and they will come of their own accord.”

3°S

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

“ The state of the estimates, therefore, becomes worthy of the
attention of statesmen, when one knows that, of the amount
spent, the country has not a capital of over 300,000,000 milreis
employed on productive works, its expenditure having been on
administration or unproductive expenses.

“ The necessity of sacrifices for developing a new country is
ignored by no one. It is allowed, and should be ; but it is better
to execute the development in the orbit of its faculties than to
compromise a future which, capable of being prosperous, is em-
barrassed. He who runs grows weary, he who walks obtains his
end.

“ To show that this duty has not been forgotten, it is sufficient
to note the progressive allowance to the Minister of Agriculture,
whose expenditure shows public works either belonging to the
State or auxiliary to its operations, which represent the pro-
gress of the country. . . . The guaranteed interests to industrial
undertakings amount annually to 1,763,420 milreis ; that of grants
to navigation companies is estimated at 3,299,600 milreis. Tele-
graphs, railways, and other improvements show anxiety and en-
deavour to accompany, the progress of other nations; but one should
not lose sight of the fact that one quarter of the receipts of the Budget
is destined for the payment of the State debt.

“ The ease of having recourse to a loan constitutes the sore point
( chaga) in the finances, and therefore, when some embarrassment
appears, it is not attempted to be solved by eco?iomical measures ,
cutting down expenditure, or delaying expense which might be put
off ; they prefer to liquidate by a loan ; therefore , says Laveleye,
credit ( which we were taught to bless as a beneficent fairy, who iti-
creases the well-being of humanity) becomes a worse scourge to
nations than the plague and famine of the Middle Ages ; because those
were transient, and the other is permanent.*

“ Whoever pays any attention to the increase of the estimates
is soon confronted by the augmentation of officialism ( funccion -
alismo ). This is a cancer which devours and destroys the powers
of the country, prejudicial not only by the increasing augmenta-
tion of expenditure, but by the disorganization of the service. The
greater the number of those employed, the less is the amount of
* The italics are mine.

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL. 309

useful work. The few who work are interrupted by the many who
disturb. Of old, the work was simplified by doing away with too
many employe's ; to-day, it is increased by the complication which
is given to the service.* And yet this is not all. There is not an
employ^ who does not consider himself ill-paid ; all grumble and
cry out for an increase of pay, and the less they do the more they
complain.

“To the officials is added the class of hangers-on, who will
not pass unprovided in the abuse which has been given to that
guarantee which the law reserved to the employe disabled by
work or hoary in the service ; the amount desired by hangers-on
is greater than that destined for the payment of all the employes
of the imperial offices. . . . The class of pensioners deserves no
less attention;, it Consumes 1,793,915 milreis.

“ Important questions on economic administration occupy the
attention of divers commissions, who were entrusted by the
Government to study them. We are accustomed to see the results
kept among the archives, hardly serviceable to assist by their
information (de suas luzes) those who have the curiosity of con-
sulting them. We give our votes that the new studies shall not
be of the same kind as the former.

“ There are, however, two questions which appear to us
cannot be adjourned either by Parliament or the Government.”
Senhor Carreira then enters into the questions (1) of the withdrawal
from circulation and reduction of the claims of the six per cent,
and five per cent, apolicies or bonds, and (2) of the Bank of Brazil,
which has power to circulate private notes ; and demonstrates how
much revision and improvement is necessary in these matters.

He concludes his pamphlet thus : — “ In ending this work,
which is only an essay on the general condition of the estimates,
I have brought together. . . . statements for understanding the
financial history of the country, giving bases for its study in detail ;
but I will not terminate without a reflection produced by this
study.

“ In the fifty-four Budgets liquidated, that is, after knowing
all the receipts and expenditure, scarcely ten reveal a balance, and

* Brazil, with a population under 10,000,000, has 88,000 Government
officials 1

3io

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

that so small in relation to the great deficits that it entirely dis-
appears. This speaks so convincingly that he only deceives
himself who does not desire to pay attention to it. It cannot,
then, be said that this is a prosperous State ; and if we are not so
selfish as to pretend to rejoice over the resources of the future,
with the facts of the present, while continuing extraordinary ex-
penditure, we must rest for a time, busying ourselves to reconstruct
our weakened forces. The Chambers and the Government should
combine not to create works which depend on fresh expenditure,
whether permanent or temporary, and should attend to the
necessities of the country, with the necessary criterion of enter-
taining only the indispensable.

“ The spirit of the Brazilian Parliament bears some resem-
blance to that of France, as to the enthusiasm with which it faces
the resources of the country, and voting expenditure while never
consulting the true condition. Between France, however, super-
abounding in industry and commerce, and Brazil, rich in natural
gifts, but poor in industry, having its gaze only fixed on a hus-
bandry which is preparing for the sacrifice of a great change by
the transformation of its slave-labour, and without great hope of
this being solved without a crisis, the difference is extraordinary.
Great social and economic problems are not solved by enthusiasm ;
they require calmness, prudence, and reflection, which are elements
constituting the well-being of nations.

“ (Signed) Senator Castro Carreira.

“Rio, April 26, 1883.”

I hardly consider it necessary to apologize for quoting at such
length the opinions of another, which are given with the authority
of one who really knows the details of the subject. It is a trite
saying, that statistics can be so arranged as to prove anything ;
but it would, I humbly submit, take a clever man to work out the
items I have given so as to prove that Brazil is a prosperous
country, or even that she is advancing financially, as the yearly
increasing receipts are overshadowed by a yet greater expenditure.
When one considers the yearly deficits, and how the Government
of Brazil meets them — by continual issues of paper money, by
bonds, by internal and foreign loans — it does appear a marvel that

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL. 31 1

the confiding public should advance money for the purpose of
paying the ever-increasing deficits of an extravagant and impe-
cunious country. Certainly, Brazil has not as yet repudiated her
debts ; but the payment of interest is out of capital.

It is considered by many in Brazil that the existence of the
empire depends upon the life of one man — -the present far-seeing,
admirable, intellectual, and scientific Emperor ; a man whose
personal and domestic relations as husband and father are irre-
proachable. But at his death the future of the empire is far
from being secure. The question, therefore, arises, What is the
security of Brazilian stocks ? Is the outlook good for investors ?
The answer from every conscientious Englishman in Brazil is an
emphatic no. The present system has been undeniably bolstered
up ; by whom, does not signify ; but I think it sufficient to draw
attention to the foregoing pages to prove the truth of this state-
ment. Why are Brazilian stocks so high when she has only a
paper currency, while the northern republics, with Uruguay, the
Argentine, and Chili, all of which have silver, are not held in such
high repute ? The whole fabric of Brazilian finance rests upon a
very frail foundation, and, should there not soon be a material and
radical change in the tactics of that empire, the investors in her
stocks may find themselves ere long — though I hope the day may
be long deferred — in a sorry plight.

Note to page 287.

Slavery in Ceara.

The Rio News of February 24, 1886, referring to the Jornal do Com-
inercio of February 21, states that “to the infinite shame of” the Province of
Ceara, “ and to the bitter humiliation of every honest abolitionist, it now
appears that a gross deception has been practised, and that Ceara is not
entitled to the honours awarded ” on the occasion of the enthusiastic reception
of the news that Ceara was the first free province of the Empire. “ According
to the Jornal, the municipality of Milagres then possessed 300 slaves which
were not redeemed, and of which 298 are in slavery down to this very day.

. . . With this deception before us,” even should these slaves be liberated,
“we shall not be able to free ourselves from the fear that there may still be
men there from whom the shackles of servitude have never been stricken.”
The inhabitants of Ceara have not only “discredited themselves before the
world, but they have done a thing which cannot fail to still further discredit
the sincerity and trustworthiness of the Brazilian people.”

Table showing Realized Loans.

312

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

c 3
v o
ii U

00000000000000

00000000000000

00 OOOOO ^ ^ lo O o L>» ^}-00 OO "tf*

H OOOVO H coco (N *-H o TLvO
roo H LOCO CTs LO H On VC t)- N vO

VOVQ ^ OOO OvO •'d-00 rOOO

VO vh i-nucn O Omo rh On CL 00 M lo
VO Ttrou-,H Khvo *-• O vo ON N N00
■^j-00 VO lo N LO LO (N C100 Tj- H 00

O O O O O -f
O O O O O N
LO VO OOO^-

O O O O O M

O O O O O H

VO O H OVO O

rf lo On 00 On CO
COCO vO lo 1-1 rt

COCO O f' *-i hi

S?

OOOOOOOOOOOOOO
OOOOOOOOOOOOOO
OJ O W M vo vO vg O O VO VO OJ M VO

vcT o' On h n O vo' CO co lo m ro h vcT

COOVOt-HCO^f-MOt^ lovO N O On
VO ’t L. N o LO LO coco ON CO lo

CO hT t-T t-T t— T COvo" CO LO

h|n h|n HlN h]n hJcj

: LO LO LO vj-iG't \f LOIGIG^-

VO ^j-VO ‘O

O ; MVO lololo-; OCO CnvO On
00 . LO L-GO ON ON o_, ON 00 t^OO ON CO

OOONNOOOOOOOOO

^1-OOh.OloOOOOOOOO

CNOOvor^NOOOOOOOO

On o o ef N ^ loco 6 o o' 6 6 6
OnOOhioiloC'JOh.oOOOO
ON ^ covo Ov LON coo O O O

t-T CO LO CO LO Tj-

LO

■ 00
: 00 n
; w 00

00 ^ ~ 1

LO p

*2 >0 ^

fS* M 00 vo 0°

99 cl hi 00 loco *-<

00

' g M s

LO00 CO 92

QVO H H C

J CO
J CO

bf)

e

p ^ <u

§

l— > a Q

<4-. O 4-

O \£ O
<D P CD
O (U
5-< > }->

CJ p o

<u o v

QuQ

_ „ . . t-~ « O

M >'«&*''' ^1;c£°2o

(UTC GS<D4-»<Dci CO
3,0 ^ .

o ' <-> is a 2 £vooor^jj

“I

O £§ g S2

o -2 's ‘S $ *S cn

8S S g S'ZlS'Z'o'o

LO

On

^ 00
oj •— 1
rQ „

S S'

<u ^

p-^r*

CL) ^

<D <U

fiP

* In these items, e.g. 32,766:631 $ 800, the : represents contos of reis. As in India rupees are counted by lakhs, so in
Brazil milreis are counted by contos. A conto is 1,000 milreis or 1,000,000 reis.

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL. 313

Postscript.

The following are extracts from an article on the “ Brazilian
Budget,” which appeared in the Statist of August 8, 1885.

“ The Budget of the Brazilian Minister of Finance, presented
to the Chambers in May last, is an elaborate document of over
400 quarto pages, and additional tables, etc., of about equal
extent. The mixture of ordinary and extraordinary revenue and
expenses, balances from previous budgets, deposits, and extra-
neous matter in the estimates is most bewildering ; but reckoning
the ordinary and extraordinary items together, the deficits may be
placed at an average of about 26,000,000 milreis for each of the
three years ended June 30, 1885. The result for 1883-84 showed
a deficit of 23,762,967 milreis. The expected deficit of 1884-85
was 29,824,000 milreis, and the Minister in his explanation, as
recently as last month, said he adhered to the estimates of revenue.
The estimated excess of expenditure over revenue in 1885-86
was placed at 19,362,000 milreis, and for 1886-87, the forecast
is of a deficit of 17,869,000 milreis. The estimates were qualified
when made by the supposition that the revenue should not exceed
nor the expenses be reduced on the estimates. According to
Mr. Sandford’s report, referred to in the Statist of April 4 last,
between 1873-74 and 1882-83 inclusive, the deficits had amounted
to some 288,000,000 milreis, or an average of 28,800,000 milreis,
and they had been met by the creation of 71,000,000 milreis in
Treasury bills, 129,000,000 milreis in internal loans, 80,000,000
milreis in foreign loans, and 40,000,000 milreis by issues of notes.
The more recent deficits have been met by further creation of
Treasury bills, and the extension of the note circulation is con-
templated. Efforts have lately been made to effect economies in
expenditure, but the results are not so great as could be desired.

“The comparison of revenue and expediture for 1881-82,
with the estimates of 1885-86 and 1886-87, is as follows : —

1881-82. 1885-86. 1886-87.

Milreis. Milreis. Milreis.

Receipts ... 128,937,620 131,663,400 132,881,600

Expenditure ... 156,749,546 151,025,977 150,751,017

“ The Senate and deputies have, it is stated, agreed to the bill
to authorize the issue of 25,000,000 milreis of notes. The banks,

314

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

in their balance-sheets of June 30, show that the Government
owes them just 60,000,000 milreis, viz. : —

Milreis.

On Treasury bills (old and new issues) 55,524,000

Account Current with Bank of Brazil 4,198,638

59,722,638

“ . . . The bills discounted and the call loans at the bank
tend to decrease, for the necessities of trade cannot resist so
powerful an antagonist as the Treasury. The actual cash in the
seven banks is returned as 11,214,587 milreis. This cash is an
asset against deposits on call, and with fixed maturity of no less a
sum than 127,667,000 milreis.”

The Rio News says, “ The Treasury of the empire of
Brazil has now reached a point when little short of a miracle
can relieve it, if its authorities continue to follow the same beaten
road.”

Report of the Brazilian Finance Minister.

The Rio News gives some interesting extracts from the last
report of the Finance Minister of the empire,* from which I make
the following notes : — -The minister proposes additional taxation —
(1) on lands served by railways and river navigation ; (2) on agents,
directors, or managers of companies, pawnbrokers, slave-dealers,
dealers in lottery tickets, and various other occupations, and on
certain factories; (3) on tobacco; (4) an increase of from forty to
fifty per cent, on stamp duties and charter companies. “ The
minister does not agree with the proposed increase of ten per cent,
on imported wines, etc. , which are already heavy, and because the
proposed addition Would further stimulate the manufacture of artifi-
cial wines , spirits , etc., which have already flooded (invadido) the
markets of the capital and provinces to the manifest prejudice of the
public healthf Therefore, what should be done is to impose a tax
of one hundred reis per litre on the produce of these factories,

* South American Journal, July 25, 1885.

t The italics are mine. Would that all English statesmen recognized the
increase of this evil in our midst, to the prejudice of the legitimate wine and
spirit merchant, as well as to the injury of the health and vitality of the nation.

THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF BRAZIL. 31 5

which, under careful localization, would give an annual sum of over
one million milreis to the Treasury.”

The report gives the following particulars as to the present

condition of the foreign and home debt : —
Foreign Debt.

£

Loan of i860

137,900

,, 1863

1, 108,400

„ 1865

4,968,600

„ 1871

2,865,800

1875

4.795.400

„ 1883

Total ...

4,543,800
• ^18,419,900

Internal Debt.

Milreis.

Apolicies at 6 per cent.

336,003,100

5 >>

1,997,200

>1 4 > f

119,600

Gold Loan of 1868, 6 per cent.

22,443,500

„ 1879.4? „

42,777,500

Total ...

403,340,900

Orphans’ Fund ...

15,831,303

Estates of deceased and absent persons

3,842,591

Emancipation Fund ...

2,73 5,355

Savings Banks ...

18,478,818

Mont de Piete

790,287

Sundry deposits

11,161,108

Treasury bills

50,075,500

Treasury notes

10,728,000

Paper money

187,343,725

Exercicios Findos

411,671

: assets of the Treasury are : —

Unpaid taxes

14,976,300

Debt of Uruguay

17,007,036

Debt of Paraguay

256,049

APPENDIX II.

A Severe Winter in Minas Geraes.

I have mentioned that the inhabitants of Brumado, in Minas
Geraes, told me of the extraordinary frosts of the year 1870. I
now give some details thereof, translated, by special permission of
the author, from M. Emmanuel Liais’s very valuable book.*

“ On the high table-lands of Minas Geraes, between Sao Paolo,
Barbacena, and the extensive mountains in the neighbourhood of
Ouro Preto, whose heights range from nine hundred to eleven
hundred metres, the mean temperature is on an average 50 centi-
grade below that of sea level on the same parallel, and, owing
to the difference of latitude, about 40 centigrade below that of
Rio de Janeiro. At Atalaia, near the last-named city, the lowest
temperature given by my minimum thermometer, under good con-
ditions of free access to air and guarded against radiation, has
been 10 ’8° centigrade, and that is in one year only. Generally
the yearly minimum never went below 12 '5° centigrade. . . .

“ Real frost was quite unknown on the highlands, nonage-
narians never remembered having seen any, and were astonished
when, in the month of June, 1870, this phenomenon was pro-
duced with an extraordinary intensity for those regions. This
time the frost was very persistent, and lasted five or six days, from
Barbacena to the Serras of Ouro Branco, in all the eastern boun-
daries of the central highlands of Minas. This phenomenon was
local, limited, unaccompanied by abnormal temperatures in other
regions of Brazil not far distant. I was then in the centre of the
province of Bahia, where the -temperature was as high as usual;

* “ Climats, Geologie, Faune, et Geographie Botanique du Bresil,” p. 584,
et seq.

A SEVERE WINTER IN MINAS GERAES. 317

and after my return to Rio de Janeiro, I found, in the following
August, the index of my minimum thermometer 12 '5° centigrade
above zero, which thus showed me the lowest temperature at Rio
de Janeiro for about a year (since my departure), and assured me
also, that in Rio nothing abnormal in the temperature had existed
during the extraordinary cold of Minas Geraes.

“ However, the cold at Barbacena had been sufficiently intense
and prolonged to enter the houses, where water froze. In this
country, it is true, the houses have not as thick walls as in cold
countries, chimneys are wholly unknown, and cooking is done in
ovens. These conditions are amply sufficient for ordinary winters,
for the low temperatures of from 30 to 40 centigrade above
zero (3 20 Fahr.) . . . are only towards dawn, and have not
time to penetrate to the inside. After sunrise, the temperature
rises again very quickly, and these circumstances explain the
absence and uselessness of chimneys in the rooms. But, at the
same time, they show how abnormal was the phenomenon with
which we are now occupied, and explain the ease with which frost
can enter the dwellings. The Visconde de Prados was at Rio at
the time of the phenomenon ; but on returning to Barbacena in
the month of August, he found that the minimum thermometer
placed in his drawing-room (which had remained closed) registered
29‘5° Fahr., that is, i-s° centigrade below zero. This indicates
how intense and prolonged the cold must have been outside. The
French vice-consul at Barbacena, M. Renault, told me that the
thermometer on the last day went down to nearly 6° centigrade
below zero, outside ; but this temperature only lasted for a very
short time. Nevertheless, evidently the temperature must have
remained some time at from 20 to 30 centigrade below zero during
this last night, otherwise the thermometer could not have gone
down to 1 "4° centigrade under melting ice, inside a closed frame;
and, again, this was only explicable by the extreme low temperature
which had already existed for several days, when, on preceding
nights, the thermometer had been a little below zero (320 Fahr.).
Some sugar-cane plantations were destroyed, streams were frozen,
and many dead fish were observed. Some forests were entirely
frozen, as if they had been scorched by fire, and many young trees
perished. Many persons also fell victims to the cold, in the open

3 1 8

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

country, where the “ tropeiros,” or mule-drivers, are barely covered
with cotton clothing, and often lie under open sheds, or even
outside.

“ At first sight, the explanation of this abnormal phenomenon
is difficult, for the lower lying currents of air ( vents i>?/erieu?'es),
coming from the far-distant southern regions, cannot reach these
latitudes at a low temperature, as they are warmed along the whole
of their course by contact with the soil under the influence of
solar radiation. A direct descent of cold air from the higher
regions of the atmosphere cannot take place without a consider-
able increase in the heat of that air, in virtue of the compression
it sustains ( compression eprouvee), and consequently one cannot
have recourse to the pure and simple hypothesis of an atmospheric
current descending, especially as the phenomenon in question
would then be frequent. The only possible explanation is, there-
fore, to admit that in a much more southern latitude, where, con-
sequently, the winter might be very severe ( pouvait sevir avec
rigneur ) — for the month of June is a winter month in the southern
hemisphere — a great mass of cold air, at a temperature far below
zero (centigrade), and due to a very strong radiation from the
earth’s surface and to southerly winds, was carried, by a cause
whose origin we will presently examine, to a great height above
the surface. By expansion, owing to such an elevation, its tem-
perature was again lowered to a great extent; but this would once
more attain its original condition if the mass of air descended
again to its former level. Then, driven northwards at its high
elevation, the current approached the equator without becoming
much warmer, contrary to what would have happened had it passed
over the soil, for the solar rays raise the temperature of the air in
passing along, and we know that, above all, it is warmed by going
over the soil, and by the ascending currents which its passage
occasions. But, on approaching the latitude of the table-lands of
Minas Geraes, this cold mass of air descended to the level of the
plateau, and the warming resulting from the descent could only
bring back its original temperature, and even that only by supposing
that it did not primarily come from a lower level than the plateau.
Therefore, it could then have carried there a still lower tempera-
ture than its original condition, except the small increase gained

HAIL.

3 1 9

by solar rays in its course, and also a slight mixture with less cool
strata of air.

“ This being granted, one easily understands that, as at the
extremity of South America, in latitudes where temperatures of
i2°, 1 50, or even of 20° below zero (centigrade) are occasionally
possible in winter on the surface of the ground and near the level
of the sea, a strong wind, that is to say, a great mass of air moving
W.S.W. to E.N.E., beat against the mass of the southern Andes,
where, by its acquired velocity, it ascended, still keeping its E.N.E.
direction. . . . Then, in the higher current, its northerly move-
ment was retained, and by terrestrial rotation it gradually lost its
easterly direction, until, after a long westerly movement, it finally
became a south wind. For this frozen wind to gain at once the
latitude and level of the plateau of Barbacena, it is now sufficient
... to meet favourable circumstances to extend northwards. . . .
Thus we see that for this phenomenon there was needed a rare
combination of numerous and fortuitous circumstances over a
considerable journey.”

I will next translate a few extracts concerning other meteoro-
logical phenomena ; but space prevents my giving more than very
short summaries, and excludes my detailing the causes, for which
I refer those interested to M. Liais’s exhaustive work.

Hail.

“ The hailstones are large, very hard, and I have seen them
take three or four minutes to melt. In 1862, I observed four
falls of hail in November. There are, according to the inhabi-
tants, on an average twenty in a year. At Rio de Janeiro falls of
hail are rare. I have only known four from 1858 to 1864, of
which I saw three ; and two others from 1865 to 1871. The first
fall was on February 22, 1859, when there were only a few hail-
stones mixed with a heavy storm of rain. Two others were on
October 22 and 30, 1863, during heavy storms, accompanied by
thunder. The hailstones were lenticular. I measured some,
eighteen millimetres in diameter, and one millimetre thick. They
produced a general surprise ; and I have seen persons of sixty
years of age who never remembered having seen the like. But
the fourth fall was the most remarkable. It occurred October 10,

32°

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

1864, during a terrible hurricane, five days after the great hurri-
cane of Calcutta, and after the extraordinary cold in France from
October 2 to 4, 1864, consequently during a considerable
atmospheric disturbance, whose action had extended to very
distant parts of the globe. This fall was extraordinary, accom-
panied by a violent storm, and a wind by which, at certain places,
venerable trees were uprooted. I was not then at Rio, but I
knew that there occurred in that place hailstones as thick as one’s
thumb. Since that time there have been no heavy falls of hail
(up to 1871), but only twice a few small hailstones in some storms.
Hail may thus be considered as an exceptional phenomenon at
Rio de Janeiro, and on the plateau of Minas Geraes as an
habitual phenomenon. At the north of the empire, falls of hail
are almost unknown.”*

Storms and Rain.

“ Storms are excessively frequent in summer at Rio de
Janeiro and in the province of Minas Geraes. There is some-
times magnificent lightning, not only bifurcated, but with a con-
siderable number of branches ; and the discharges are repeated
occasionally, from the same point, seven or eight times in a
second. The frequency of storms diminishes considerably on
approaching the north. At Pernambuco, during eight months,
I only saw lightning twice ; and I have never heard thunder.

“ In Rio de Janeiro, and on the coast of Espirito Santo, it
rains every season of the year ; but, as a rule, much more in
summer, and less in winter. Generally, the dryest months are
June, July, and August. In the whole of the interior of Brazil,
these months are always invariably dry, and the seasons divide
into two : the time of rain from October to March, the dry season
from April to September. . . . On the coast of Pernambuco, the
rains are specially abundant in the months of June, July, and
August, which are the dry months in the south.” M. Liais enters
at length into an explanation of this curious inversion of climate,
which is briefly as follows : — From the lofty table-lands of the
interior, when heated by the midsummer vertical sun, arise cur-

* During the ten months that I was in Minas, I never remarked any hail
accompanying the tremendous thunderstorms.

MISTS.

32i

rents of hot air, and the moisture-laden currents from the sea
rush in to take their place, passing over the lowlands and dis-
charging themselves in storms on the elevated plateaux, which are
near the sea at Rio, and far from it at Pernambuco. In winter,
the reverse is the case.

Mists.

“Mists” (brouillards ; but I cannot call them fogs, as these are
so mixed up with the idea of our smoky fogs) “ are constant in the
morning on the great rivers of the interior, and equally frequent
in the morning, during the winter, near the coast, especially in the
valleys and bays, as in the bay of Rio de Janeiro. Those on the
banks of the rivers in the interior occur in the dry as well as in
the wet season, and are due to the great excess of the temperature
of the water above that of the morning air, an excess of 30 or 40
centigrade, the former sometimes rising to 6o° centigrade. These
mists sustain the vigour of the vegetation on the banks during the
dry season, and the trees there retain their leaves. They lose them,
'on the contrary, away from the river-banks, owing to the dryness :
and this circumstance even occasions a special riparian flora
nearly approaching in its characteristics that of the virgin forests.”

Y

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES

322

A

|a

.S'

<£ °°

N -6
^ s

is

§0

s

<S

*

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

H

25

w

Q

Svu

32
3 O

U

X

53 o

13 g

c .£

rf fcjo

W

C

H

w

H

O

£

H S
v B

S3

E £

d d,

*-. vr>

>%

c3

T3

• - -c

c

•73 <u
<u u

T?

3 .

O o

n vo

'O

c3

cJ rt

3 t/D

, "0 O

tl V c

«

X.S*

o s 'x.

H3

s*.

• XJ
2 3
r; o

VO Q,
UO

. O

g V
. vo

Oh

i \j o
~3 <U VC ■

cj CJ •

2

©

(J

„ >1

O 3

<o

<2 S

^ W>
s *5

,5*

G a

43

H ^ ■

Q 3

43

<l)

>

o cr jc

in >, <s> ,<u °
... rt c g 43
S 'C

... ?, 13

C - > - ■

O 5 >,

E°T
. ^ rt
g >- A

••« |^2S
£ g« | “3
^s£J £

u>

!J3

: m •

3 — 0 .

T3 vO 0 1
0. 3 00 vO

To .00

b/)*g "?U S

LO

Sp 'S.i

T3

C?

- ^ ^^cTo*
O •.-■ c/> . • >o o

s S e E E ^ $

Q

vo

•S)2 o vo c. £

^ o fO ^ 3 CS

!/)U n Soo

egg

£ £

. O O 0 0 Cl

ro ^ LO t^OO O ^ U’AO f»C ^
N M N N ro

C?}

(Jump neat' -Vvra d' ( Hhos d'Aeua {about 3^°° feet above the sea).

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

3^3

>x

3

w v Ph

>s £

>* sT O 3

b/3

w o ^ ^ ^

<U ~ C5 — rt

G- Uo' *G "rt
£'CV&- ? o ■
c ^O ^ c :

“ . pC <u IG 9

w

c

'a

d

T3 »

£

d

vO

o

5

£

o

,g

'03 "G d fg
^ S 'G v*

^ 3 - o

3 *g

3

O

-C

3

O

rC

3

ccj

3

O

rG

<J

X .

> bo

M

CJ

•S 3j.s

g.s

O

.•S M§ 2

ffi £

O

£ §.s s„

hC

00

Oh 3

B

0

C2

C M
« to 3^

uo rt

fcH

to

. 3

|e0.|S

g

d

o

rO .

00 JS
^ 30
rt*G
G ^

<U ,K

'*“i *n

c 3
.5 33

*0 d

nW

1^9

cj T?

33 „

IB

G o

510 -S-3.S

d . VO
"O o3 oco

T3 W
5 33 •
« .2 c "O
t3 o cj .C

• 'G

T3 £?J2 "£ sj

3 G (j 3 >-.

°’s - 3-°

o £ -3
o . c

U Q_V 7

■*-’ H

b°

<u

3 <D

~ w 0) G

r . > p to

^ >s, tu '* -

w o
^ <0 <u o

C ' * j> ~ H_t CJ r ‘ ' 0^ O £- ’ 3 n-J rrH

a 2 « b 1 b<u^ = 2 b§^;= & 3C

o d J= " S S <u 2 5 ^ ^ 3

O t^> w > CQ &, > c/) % U

>- > So 3 “

•§•0 d“'aT5 o

Co .3 0)

^ogoc^o

3

6 rJ1

33 '

3 - ,

O O

o O rt
UU

Oh

CJ

>

0;

>

£

hG

CD o ,

,c 00 _

~ 00 ^ .c

2 .s' £g“*-ap

CJ CJ

6 c

u. 3

a 3
•£•£
S J3

-q a

0 g . S

O ~ tfl ^ S
v^O -o a, .o'

J " S3 Ln’o vo"
E e a “ o „
d.2 a<-> «

vow C m cJ

-G ^ G OJ
• (/> .3 >

c/5 y? § . 2 <J

.

S«s=ij

.G O .O 32 ~rG

’7" 9 ^

3C/3 rt - CTJ

cj o ^ — ■ —

°oVO

VO .

. >>
S^g

o 13

ro

00 Gh

|Q

!g

3 G

d §

3 ^

T3 — T

>,9

T2 'G

o G *o 3 0) ’ _

13 3

=- u w cj-^U

'3 d "G g *G S
3 m 3 tcO co »

o S B “

3 tj>o

C/3 .5 (D

^ § S ^
Cc3 2

_ „ . 8 “ 8
C M 3 C-T3

2 M-S J’3 g
oc£§S«
_ O g 2 ° - T3

3 3^33

C>

o

T3

13 °H-
, L<">

^£b£.

Q S

00 VO

: 00

: vb

• g
vo .
CS Oh

^ e e

d d

*-• 0000

. nh n ur, ^f-

G row o O

<L°m ^,0.0 0 0 0
n 51 10 • 00 co ci ^

vovrjtoxo -ftiATt

0 0
00 o

LO LO

v£ t^OO 0^0 w N rot LTivO
Wnn“’NMNNNNNN

nh M CO Tj- LOvO t^. 00 O O

o *.

o

324

A YEAR IN BRAZIL .

S

d.

o

VO

s

<D o

rO g O

g-S «?
3

nd

d

d

>
T3 <l»
C rO

cd

rO J

~ b/>

s«

V) ^

• d O

W aj H

s ^

d 4_> .

£ •* fc/>

<D c -S

> & d
- <u

"d

o
d d

.2 S

tyo

<u

*§3 > d

d txO . £
*2 C <D

C C >

%5

CO C/3

>*

I

d3

<d

<D «

d <2

3 r

d

r- ^

!fl 5

'-■S'-0

CD o

^ gje

rC "2 W

CO 3

<D

"d

G

G

O

ro

cd

>>

rd

G

G d rf in

rG t. 4— »

~ rt C

rG "d

G
O
, G

d <u

o

d r-

m ■

>^'G
• d

2 T3

E? -T- <n
r* r- d
(U

U

o

2

O

d S-.

IS)

w o ^

3|g?§ -

b n m V

G CO

a .5 o< ^
^'S £ *bj5

^CH C^“
£ d -d 4.

d w d -d

— . V rG

4 -J’-G > bn
rG G VG

b/3-r ^ c

J-fl
o
o ^
d o

N

d *

^ "d

>% .r

.> >

■=

co ^ c

4_J^ d • , ~~ □ >-H

,3 ^ ! J3 X£ g 2 g

UjJ fcjO <U t, "

“C 3t-S . ^ ^3

oiiO_S«S£'<uo

In W

2 ^

*d 41
cd d *£

fcjo bJD <d

d <c»

CD

rd >

t -0 > -

■d o ^

Z rG G

d

o

_ o

d

H o °
c d d

d

cd

>>■5" x

d

P4

1 <L> > •;_ -5 ij

jv > o ^ '-•

^ ^ o -? ^ ^

b d . CO G •

d (D kV ^ • w

d dn byo CO o

gU.S d t3

s' • o 'So ^ | -a .

b d cd d d d d cd
<n .2o

0-^4_^ d <D« CD^^d -c —

xdoMdwd^o^

o -ffi E Slffi

rS 'SO'S .S >,'1^ .

m'c.S 2 tf-.S _

S d k w>-= c

d *V d^rr-S-d nb"- >-o^- — '

dd ^ rt,crd id 2 > vo d *d 1

r1 (U r1 d « c dd d d — • —

- " C a K. ^ ho = „ . J 3

d rS

C/5

. CD 1/3

r W C rrt
— ' ^ 4-* aj S_| dD

^ nT) 53 ^ O h

> o id CL4-> d

Od § S

S 1 e g ° -S -3

>,S‘Ji,'c

- r L j

r- d C ri .

a 3 rtT3 Ch'

rod2 vo

OQ

'S, 5o c " ^

CL.^O

^ c«

CD

u

sS“

Cffi b

OJ ^

H

XT

o ^-2 .f

; Jc»o:|

> O ffiu -I

o°

r^oo .

^ HH

wj r^-vO d*
^ 00 M 00

^ C ^ g N

Sd vo
d

d

id a
r^vo

• tJ*

: 'b
: vb

vp

vb

s’ s" S

vr> to
b bvb

'8'Sa

H v

v- 6

o

o co
45 ^
ird ■

s 5

d

vo

O

ro

vb

d o
vO

ib lb'

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

c

Tn oJ

o

'bp^
Tn r

w £ o 5 g

•r* rr in

V

C

E • e

3 0 0

"”3 o

— -C -

C cg3
,2 S3
gS .
o c C-S y

° i § «-s

_ « tX) ^ G
•>** -•/! OJ G _ <D
o iu >> >
^ 7? > v
^ ce
„ <d ^3

oX g

2 s’

G

O -r;

O M

G T5

G G

G CD
O nj
2 G
g 3
<u rS

CD G

V) G

G co

<2 _u

3

Ml §

S-o
m a
> ^ •
<D CO o
■+-1 G N ,

<D

o U1 c

I’o’S’g o

I V o
v 2" c ^

G .£ A
jl S J H 3
£0,6^
3 _ a<T3 .

^"4?

bJO !

3 N

~ "> o -

m"hc2

•S g g;f

• flH G3 g "5

£ H g g

G .

OJ T3

l— 1 5^ 3 G QJ 3

tgs«|.S-§

^ rO y >,

c/> 3 - o2 G

g^'S.s fe-f §

.2 » s ~i~i ,b g <p

o s Si? „-£5

5 c „-Si s£ §

C 5 MO
G G g >*

Sag

G b/J—

£ bk»-g :

C r £
W3 *g G • —
ci Z> c ^
>G „
b.c— v
G

2 "2 G 'S ° ^

G 3 G G C
ts c ^ c rf^c

£ w
£

n-1 O
GS

G r^-j
w 3

c/> ~ • >> o

X) c^S E O
gs -3 0-
^ ^ ^g G c/> q
P Orq Gro >*.2

G X ._ _• a % s

—T VJ
— < CO

5 *i

^ P2
.A 3

s<

.2/J

*53

G

<d

"O G q =

G «« *£ --G GC
G G3 ^ ^ -G
G xT ^ G

G

O

V

- >

S v do O

^ C c

. G *G

^ G •

tj ^ ^T*T)

•<5i cj > T| J
« d <U X.

*K» G CJ <u ?

,%J £/) •'-, *J <+H

^ M w>.2 ^
8-S-S S g
• 5 - ^

fx WC J3 "T,

S x bfibA 3 -g

3
o
o

c bf,

Od«

a .s
> .£
o . 2

. J-. PO
3

sr-"ffi ‘

■M . C

•g S2 . f

G

• rG q r»-

>-i G G

<uG '"'O

J3 . .W) O •

> 3

? T3

J3 ” S C? 6r'tV) ^ “ V

x o S.-0J2 &'-2f) x > w x S
cpq 3-53 =
flj G no K/N 2.3^^

to . „

g 'bAOZ ® ^

• *G G

G re, . • '-G

^ 53 r 1 G 'Tj 1 <U

C XI M . > ^ 3 c M ^ _

-. m >j-h m Kri-j g

“.b e

X§

•2 r w

q£§

M o ~

p

W M X.t

.»oOTS Sic p

> — 1 ►x V G . — 1 tlJ . *-

C <u o >1 !

".£ . S

12 J5 = <u - - .

S»Epp « :

> o -3 x s' 3 2

^ r i r-( -G r, ^G

% <u 0 H

to

to CO to

g ^ "2 ,2 >_

— CJ ^ Tj V

. Q - i2 u G ° b >

C ^ C(fi o U o o

Q cs > ffi in U U

OOP in ,.JZ xt)-p 1- s=

‘”5ox« ^-S 2^

•d c o bH 'g s J 2 S

x.H | S

,3 - ~ ^ 2 x8 s ■
55 e - x?^ x^J c

'^G?jOS(UcoP^a>,rO

> :

G ^ '

M «
O

cT G § O G £

0

CO vo

O

CO

vO

CO

O

CO

r^

O O

VO CO

vb

vb

vO vO

t^.

vb

00

« vb

^vb'd

vb

vb ^0

G Cl :

• ^ ^

M CVJ

£ . :

£

£

£ . .

£

G £ :

G

G

d B £

£

G

£ £

0 G

vo

O

VO Ph G

G

O

G O-,

^10

CO

VO vO

vO

CO

vO VO

vO

vO

VO

VO

vO*

inioN

NN^

r- f^vo

vO vO 04
M M .

G G £

G CL,.

G

vo ^ 9 _

CO^P ^2

vo *0 ^ vo'O •
N WvO ^vb N ^
. . ^ ^

BfieieSa

G G » ^ B d •

O 10 G G O _
r? ^ vO 00 r? 2
vb 'd 'O

s 6
g d.
co

o

CO

o

o

•^*

00

o

LO

ON

o

00

0 «

co 10

vo

•- CO ^

G G
G G
O 10

o 00

00 .
. G

co rj- u-> vO

1^ CO

o

o

326

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

P

3W -«

o 73

CO C
03

b/)i — I
G

G a

c/) G

<U rG

G pG O

§

G <D

<L>

>

<L>

tJ)

P pG

o

2 G

w> S'

ra

T3

^ t5

T3

r-

•_,- -3 3
d pG
^"0 ^

P O ^
o — P
73 ° v

O d 1/1
O <L>

G

P

IS)

_ P
G cu

s °

d

a ‘3
•3 l-
C

o S

jT st

G <u

E £
«

00 bi) Jr?

G °

it; o

a ^

Of) _,

£

O w.

»- -G G

txo to *

t/3

« O a

S ^3'

O 5

£ a

Q

o z

rG pG

G.

(S)

f,3

P to
JZ —

M 73

C "tt

- d

T3

o 2

IS

&

2 4=

o..y>

d
3
. C/3

p 2

:o

° p

co 3

rC 73

5 3

E>

3 e- ;

i d
o ^

"G -r A

U

Ju

,<L>

G *

pG pP

• t/J P
bJD-p
G c

T3

> g.bd

7f <L>

5 c/3

OpG

^ pG
C " . G (-• £*■>

^ 30 d t/j a j>
w ^ .pJrU P

v.lCl g ~

P tf) M

-3 1 S|«

CJ Q_.Gh

S 8 c#r 55

o is w 53

IG

G,

CO

. JG | O

& 8 J 1 J

^ a; . p

G^pG fcj)<U
G r^3

7 £ o

S -G

73 ^o ~ 53

CJ >

G-;

Of) >>

<D

pG c .£ ^

.1 bfl 3 .J 3 .

10 *= C — <D g >

^ pg 73 c cc ? <£ — p

g G. O £ bJO G C >^G-G
g cO^eP'-GO^g ^

g 2 ^ gr^- - - a

To m,G^Po C P t)3^

^o O«.OOG>-*

G oj ^ G 2 c b£ b/3pG pG pG _ w

^ g R'O c I c.5 ? rt 73 « ° .

“SggsoSSS ..S 21 rt'2

• p> o • •“■ GPj/jU^OJP pG o *-<
Sp-2-^^piG^pWo,

C o b/) pr 0 3 . - JJ N-“ o,dc/3 g ^ -

t! P G ’G ^ G <u c ^ t>JA cT • "7

o'ag^S.S 3“^E>.s-d^7
d ^ cs 1 n S p. A c. £ ^-| > = 3 0

JpCpH^pTlpt-j^^orii/)^

xA G

^ s

4: —

c s

8 o.

"p S G

•G C C3

a O rt

^ n %

h

• ^ ^ pP p

GQG o

U3

H 3

. G °

2 1 75 c

> >0

s |4

W T; «

•° 3 P-

O T5

^ d P '0 P1

*o U

= U g is

VO

o

CO

1C ^ 10 O o o

VO ^ U7 LO ynvp

lO CO ^O

K VO CO ^'P ^

vb 'P f^vC ^

1 *n VO VO VO VO VO
■ ^ N N N ^ N

a *

£ S

7l-

vb

Lessee

o cL, f-G d G< P P
^ j - cv t^vo
VO

- . ‘vG vO *
vovo (S (NVO
. N C4 . . N

£ p d s s g

P c ^ p G- ^

.

. p_ ^10 o

■ 7}- ov ^ ^ 2

IO LO

pC (U

H ^
^ 6

vO

a

vb

a s

p p

VO

a

>

o

!2J

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

3*7

CJ O

3 &

in C

8 d

V >>

6 o

<iO

o2

iO

• -C

!1

.TJ

} « . rC ^

1 c iJjO

, 2 £ •- w

i O £1, O

; * o m1?

: o . C l"»
r. C 'C _JJ

i-d 2-0 S
■ S-g.si

I ifl 5 rt >,

;!lx s
I * SK

to £

g jj

-C -

S >

o £ ==

•o §
s °

^ ° C
rtd"3

00 3 M

«u£

C _ •-

c

>,

S3 cg
,«„■ £:
^ u u
e

u

. "2

£ ~ ►»

J ri J3
rt c 13

o-2 —

28 -
> S

••h t/j a

CS *N

Di'ri N

tS'g'S.S

^ ° 5 3 2
« p-T K. o pC
c — r' ^ o

(£ 3 !/J f" 3

"O S3 .S C
c - „

g •a’c ° 3

c c3 .fcJO

►',S c •a «

rt rt •—

c/3 S £2 .5

i^s ag*

.3 3 c ^ 5
— o or*o

c

E

£

o

^5

o rs

C S

w. ^

<u „

II

S3 a
a o
’o o

<D ^

M «

£ S ~
|*d-a

>, ° c
-o "?•£

3

O

D c u
c o'-c

to S3 ■

*§ B £ £

°Sd 5

O' to

O !-<

^ GO O

m2 'g

■£ 1/3 t/> 3

£ „■§ -5

O tfl 5? .

£5-2 u b
3UgS
bS >,3 "

i3 3 > -r* ^
U ri C •

O „ 4_| ^

I * J'J’J

-C ^ « N

C/3 ~ ts ,,

c c 3 o

3 O'— tQ biD
w O 3 C

>. £ e 5 S

. n O C T3

*o53 >;a

£ c

in ^ g

O to

o

O h3h

u

■3
£

0^5
o ^ rt

u

C/3 ,

- S 53 °

rt O t3 o
O ..^ c b

^ C ^ 3 S

S 3 2,fi ci

3 cn ■*-< a/

Q oo

: Lo o

£ E

^ o

rt )_ , — ,

3 O «
^ to ^

00 fc£n

OT3 W

3 ^

^-1 o

• « g

-*-; > .3

s ^

o' ° ”

g ^'3

- ^
•£ bX)

^ ’c/3

bib 3
c 2

6

£
j *

E 3

c S
£ l-
° 2
flj ^ 1/3

n 'b jn
u c 5

U •« T)

-3

-H

'-T-' l— C * •

2 o ^ bJ3

o & m.E -

*3 j-i s g3

>h-!2 £ £

- > M . Jd

bM

• ^

ci

<V

W ci §

o

c ^ S

3 rt c

w2 §

■*-* ^3

•&B «

is B

c C G
VO

ci/ •

>n-3 ”

W • T3 S T3

g 3 ^ 3
• X 2 ° *

m? ^

••3 0 • « .

tO £ ro 3 4-»

C • 3 3 *3

•2 « N CL <U 3 M

C c^ iy; r-1 .^T

b C OvO ~ G

S-S gj o -a

N oj J-T £

S g

£ c3 -□ 'S O S 2
*c U

VO ro {> ^ to u-3

* to io io'P ro^* OQvoioOioO O M CO Or^

o r>. r^o f^vo ^ f^op oo oo oo vo oo vo °9

vC o O <r'1 0j vO MO '"o vb O vo MD MD n . 3 vb \D ^ VO VO o VO

N N PI .M . 'Jj N N

£ £ £ | E 1 «• B B £ £ £ £ E E 1 g £ B % B £ £ S

3«i« o £- o ^ ^ £ d-cbej tib-o o ^ ^ dd-

*0 OnO ^OV^ - i^ON •t CNN 't ON ^vO ^ CvvO vo o

rj- vO ^ to **

IO

vb

O VO

vb vb
CM

IO

vp

vb

CM

£ s’ S £
^ acd d.

VO^'O VO

o

o

Cv

O O

r^ ^3-

vO vO

O

C/0

Cv

0

VO

ON

o w o o
rn^ UN LON
VO .^OvO N

E £. B £ £

ti 3 is i

vo CvVO IO

>go 0 0 °
C* PM VO 00
• vO vO vO vo

1 £ £ £ £
q dci dd
f^vO vo voOv
vb

3 ^ ■ 00 O vo

. ^ vo ^

C.£

£ £ £

- o
vo r*") *C *^* O*
uA ON

Min. Thermometer. ^ax' Ther-

328

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

£ o -&■

fcuO X!
w C M

„ c3

c >- b/>
Q d 6

#c

2

c/3

c

b/j G

O

S G

0^ G

go £

s«g “

Vi— . rG
rt c.h

rO J-.

o fcG
o%.sp

M

. S

'S3

t/J

CD •

CD

G C/3

C Oh '

■ <d

a,
c
r £

<d

O >

Br

00 s

. co O
C t/3
O . Jh
° '-C

C c ^

3

22 1 « e

g c d.

c S

S-a

C 3 </5
o G C/3 5

g c

Pg -e-5

j- E c c
« i) ; o
T? ^ > O

3 d MO

— c *"

W

fd

CD o

■G G

g-S

!l

o .

^ s

.2 P
£

o

£

J= S ,r'
S'g O

b /)?—•

T3

C

c3

v- •

O P«

<d

rt

ro

' 00

G d

O CO

^ §
c

. o

b/3-C
C ^

PQ S

c/: 1=1

- -O

<L) ON

C/3

. o

G* Wig,1-*3
•3 C 3T3

E o ■j “
o £ .S

E « • 3

, 1 (L) >",Pd

T3 g

O b.S
3 >

«<*

F c

j w 7:
— — -G
O W^t/3

<D

N ^

<D G

2 "S

cti

„ B o

b/D fi
G "O . O

•E c_^g

Q-

BS .f

'g M C3

JJ a 3 c

3 F >
O w ~ *
Ph

s-ffj

0« o ■

= So S

PS,

•S s

<J5

■S-c

>, ...

! B

c/3 o^
o

.£ o
U£

.n ?: C

^ O PQ

pG C/3

o ^ G
° C G

rt O

C/3

>

Cj

OJ

ffi

b/3 _

F. C

CT* C
o

TT C

ro

c3

N T

N U .

■3 p g 00

Q u

E o

• Uj

o-^

HH C3

^ T3 .

2 Be
• o
o r^,r^3

b/5 C
G O

'c °
£ G

Tj

3W 2
o 'O g

UoS

c^ r: '

e|c

G I

S||b«^£

?• c H VO f-c

G cG
'-a
G

u §■§

CJ 5

pG G

wfo

C/3 1
(

.0 p

0 .2 ^ ^ 2

C/3 «

~ d o .XT' o

UrC G C

OOO i-o

O 'P ^ O

VO * VO VO ^ VO VO . VO

» N 'g N N vb

Is e£npn>.'!

^ S ^ dpS dE^S

omooc-o3D’«^

'■/ 2 r? 'p'0 2 Nio

*-> CO Ch

o

o O

i^vp vp vO 00
vO vb O w vb

M M H . cj

S S E E E
c3 9.0,0 O.

vO 10 On ^00

10 O
oc 00
vb vb

M 01

vO

^ On

o o 1/-) o

1^0 n r^vp o>.
r^oo ^5 vb vb vb

VO vb M ^ N

01 01 . • • .

• . E E E E

= c da id,
3 rt O O O o
vo rp ro rp
rj-vb vb cv

o o ro i/P o :
r- f^vo oU

vb vo o b vb (
01 iN Ol 01 M

rt o-rt ad*
^ Cn'O vo Ov I

vO °_ vO f

OOO
OO^ O'- vO
u ^°0 CO vo vo

e e

O Ph

G G G
G .

• rt

B G

J LOCO VO LO

O C
VO

a e ® ■

G fi j*N t c

b ci o o o

VO

4^° vb

°~v

r^co

5 B ^

ci do
0*0^

vo

r^ 00

ON

O

Ol ro

1-1

W

01

01 01 01

01 01

0

Dec.

9 P

s

2

-

= 2 2

2 2

n

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

329

»»S

o c/3
N

2 <u >.
£ cj p

O ^ CJ

u j$ c &
y S o>

£ O 1

- .£^o
> e ^ ^
<y c ~

CJ

~rG

>,0

1 '"'S

&£!§■§

>>S 75 g g

CJ ^ ^

> c o .£

£ G cj ^E- £
• £L ^ ^ ~ Gj

o o a-Jc '5 S

O roV? to
£ On '-P Jri -*-’

V .

r: . Jg- g T3
rt £?S g 2.S

STs x I M .

g c

3 fcjo =3 O d *G
CL £

o

G r*

— £ o

O .J Cj

r->. CL cj

^ <?

. - O'

g0* A

•S w <?
£

O 2
£^ ,

>~> > c
n > .c;
oj <oj >
cj ^ >
^ cj G2

Prj' £
T3 C
P G £

° O CJ

J-( -7-5 </)

<JJ g O

^.S 3

o £ o

.G cj

C/3 _,

"•5 g

* w U
fcJO o ^

^ a *

bo

43 o c

bjo o c/T

.SC"

a.

>S 2 ss

S S 2

ca £ C
£ o rt

C/3 ^

1

" d c
>, " 'Z
Jr; -c a

^ a 0

. p,’o

G CJ G
O ^ cj

a W)

£3,0 Ifl 3

- o

R 52 'S

o o

V n C

J2 -S
•*« §
= 5

o

rC

S 00 g

a

"^-a *o

s*' c •=

43-°

c

a

a i a

cj Ph

S O g

w rob

fj H PhL

cj t

P o •;

>-. Cj v

c xj

cj ° 3
<y p ^

rG

T3

g

Ph

Co hG

cj tJD

-* ’S

s ^

LC cj
4-. cj

..ffi

'S

P3 O ^ CL CJ . ^

o ^3 he G be

w c rt 15 ri P

G Jo U O >< 0)

te S >c no j; 03 O
L > <

>• 03 a 7;

~ >,

% >-1

•3 .5

C/3

P .£

*cj G3
L. >

E2«

c3 Vo
<U <U

^ o

'-O ^
rt

b >
^ 2

25

tuo‘>

*G

^ .s

P cj
G3 ^
(U CJ

£ G

S <-P

S pH

a »

Cj 4-J >>

cj »— ;

r° M O
Cfv CJ CJ
I ^ Ph

1 J- f/3

o

. "f/3 b2

4_) Cj C

G be
• S?>J3 S
g d >

O 3J
b/) G ■7-5

•G^P S

Cj

O hG

M to

2

. Ti

*" G
G

• ^

V3

i! ^

n '■"

0 ri
rQ CJ

„ o

1 I

ca g

vd #g

d p

cj Vh

^3 P

d! CJ

|5

7j ^

W3

T3 Vh
CJ CJ
rG 5:

« 0
i3 o3

CJ 1/3

0 - b

bvO VO

a

cj
vO ^

. P

E d

p- o

CO

O O 10 O »olC

b O O b o ‘P O •

vp ^ vp vp bo bo o

^00 ^ o ^ O N C9
. N N • N . <N .

£ G G S • £ • £

rt p p d- p d. ^ ci

O PhPhQ Cj Q Phx/-
rdcovor9i^cO(0\’-;

3 £

. VO CO i_o O O

O o 'P b b O O O O

^o 'g 'g ^p COCOOOOO^.^ VOVOOOOO

OmnnN\ONoOOON'2nNMNMN
N . . . N . M N W M . ^ . . .

a a E s a g a _= g , g a g a a a a a a

. p^cxcvcs R d,6? ~ ^ ^ ca a cLcL,cL,oi cL.ci

c3000'na*0c3C1‘a,aH0r!u-)00000

00 CO r? ^ *~l o fOOO NO |-h cococococo

CO 1-/_) CTnO CTS O rj-O CsO >-0 On

o o O
r^o
O .

g g a

S P cL,

Cj Ph Q
O vo rO
Gn

OO

u O

*P CO CO

f^. , ,

s b I a i a

^ X _: Ph v

° JO N ^

10 Lh roo

£ 1

Ph !

CO

V/ o 10 fr

cOiO^NroCs^ •
Gs J, O vo

P d
rt O
00 rp

O OOO

OO O o o O 0 0 <0° lo CO

O 'TO loO vo voO ^OO
. O O O O O O f''- .

a c c e a e a a

£GG^cj~. p,n,
t-t) PnCj Ph Ph Ph O ^ VO O
^ 2 o 00 N NG'f?H ^ O
^ d-O

G £

tN^j-

OOO

£ £ £

Cj Ph P,

330

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CD si L u
rj t: C OJ

TJ * o >
a_, 2 o o
d G G
o G i5

■m2 S a
§

^5 "So d.,M
S

■S g| S

.5 ^

^-G w in
m <£ d d

S o

-G c<J --d
CJ G <d

3 o O "““i

| 8

- ^ CD CJ

•5 .^«±i o

•r n rt °

tSS rt

C “
*G ti °s
.5 o >
os .c >r;

}-. <D

rQ Z3 <S) .'S’ o

G G C <D

■ S 3 Cc
<L> p W <D

U g a..

S K !s oo S3

■« S

c 3 C rt ■

. bJD

O Jo
u- 'd
T3 3

>

<d

CL VO

G

.s ^

g ’§ <* *

vo H

C c3

*5 ^

<* C«

O £/>

O _ S 3 • "3 -3 . 5 • w 5 ^ C

33 fi C o^j; _ c MOh s '3

OT 3 | h|.SP= o(S

^ogc^sg^c^xg

S' -3 S gS s g Mjj'o'f .2 s -

o G dF fcJD-r ml 3 <D _a .£ > in ^ £ £ O ,- ,

0*0 ^ c H otr; ~ ^ G fcxo

F (/> i-o.G ddQ k

£ «? o _S ^ ^

4 <D O
<D ^

~mbA

o ‘5

' LO 3

^ 6

’"d'.-G
c3 .dl
CD >

to ^

• CD rH

2 u -r ,

*■* oj u 01

d rG •

hJ3 ^ ^ d ^ rG u. • c

I S^^oSJg

gi-l 5 .2 1X1 T3 <§ is >2^ " 11
1- oS „ 3 o 5 S
^ -s • -c B . .5 -2 -c g „ tS
S3 ~ S,1" r^^g.E “-s.g£

■ G to ^ d

£*■-1 Q ;_i __, h rO "

. -, = M- g £ £ O | >v g I',

> <u c /) D o3rQ <d co

S3 K

txo ;

_G ‘
G G j

0^0

fc/)-G O

-G 1G ’co

W

<u c

rl

' CL

o

*2 o

5 <*

CO

rt

T3

g|

^ bp

o .5

j-<

<u

J-. <u

•n g

C -G
G

£ S
^'2

rG

o

to ^
o rt

<D rG
> .
0 s
a l

c3 "i"

VO

« C >■ bfl“

2 o S c -s

E o u-=.M

•3 g-« S-
. -nC2 ^ 5 <2

53 tn

C <5 > =2 <U
'n ‘3 3

1- . 1-0 <-G

° j- *-• jo

. 'd u,

J Jo

S n 2 d a

<D ” g C w"

c 2

rS “

H3 N <u '—

. 9 rG T)

'*2 CO ■ — ' ZZ ■ —

d <U G r-J

3*^-5 5 '

«r i * e I
vE 3 . 2 «r ;
d ■J' - G

C* d CG
<D in ^ G .

^ S “,'S £

<D

>v ' C

G G'

jGd £ .

c« d d C O
Q ,£ ^o o r ;

ro'o Ij to C1
vd

Wo

o • G . d

3 s p. E S

e s

o3 CL
VO vr->

to iri LO
H NN
t*

'-O V-O OOO

KNOOO&O00 q

vb vb vb o ^2, co

N Nvo N w N^b

• • ^ . • . M

ESgESE

o3 CL . rt CL ci, G

O O °" O o o V3
rn m O ro rn
VO vo “ VO vd c*

_ vou->

1C<» v £<*>

vo vo vO

* VJ fl N N

VO N " ”

” S i i a

c ^ c3 d a,

o-n ?.o o

vO

vO vo O'

H i>

•j I

a

O VO O
LO f^*vO
vo • VO

d qh h
ci q Cl,
^vO

0 0 vo
X^CO ^

vO vO .

G G S

rt CL u-,

vo vo ^

cfs

£ £

vO vO CO ic

►- vo O N

vo vo ^vo vo

a a g s a

a d. ^ 33 d<

o o So o

CO co Cd ro co
VO* vd vd vd

c3 O-

VO vo

O O
° ^?0
r>.vO ro
. . VO

s. e. a
a cl F
00^
00 ov

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

33i

g «

1 S

2 s

.£ .0

tfi u

.£ o

„ CJ

a _r
c o
*2 o

* u . . — .

§ S'? w £

_ u o .5

U r-

Q

cj £

Jl Gh
rt7> o

C ro

S uS

cj r3
^3 a
.ti ^

a cs

t/j

£

v

■ ' •>

*o >

3 o
O J3
Tj C/2

sC-g

c ►.« e
= E _ = o

tJ n — rt ^

\r>z n O ~

M j. M ro 1-1

vo vO

» ' 1) flj • r< 1/1

£ O jz <u u bfl

o S - - 3 y °

>>

6

H-» £1,

O £ » _Q .

g£ S &§

° TJ J 0.cl,_

J- J3 o CJ fi G

5* l_< cj <y rt 3

CJ “ — • o n

o, o. «i 2

rrt 12 cj tuo

« si ^ > £ jz
^ tT rt 0 ^ -2

* u.s'S'S

rt ^ * t0 CJ c

: cj

*-• rr rj CJ -

•» cj (/)(/) ^* fc/

Si 8 go

O.MS.J .

u c S £; « «13 o

tJD o

O "O >-<

• — G a-G
£ >-G Q X *-G - . — i

G tc a « ti £ o

^ ^ ~ § J: 3 S

iOa«jj«"i»c
c/5

.SP'S

rQ c '

*§

- - ., rt rt

' — v V J3

E - - I

G rt

in .

UD

c.H d

tJ3

S.1- ".* s'-S |

_i a> jr C ri ^ in

c5SHL-2flSfl

" o -a S ft

'O - <V JZ O-C'T*-'

*v> rt3 1 «tj ^ 0

1 6 l ■g s g - 1

§£^J3<U°G'£1

| do a.S SoS^

^ Z H

ffi, « ‘rt -u -C

J (U T+ lH (U • l-
H U, dJ rt CJ

q ) V-. — - r~ ; ry -1_>

.£ ° s " & S

^ ,(<lg 3 “J 5

- V ^ S O ~J2 2

)JD d Pi -O .2 to c

; . r.-° d «g s

i « « S « •£

£ rt c3 r-G

] 'V d f-\ °

.Baja

> .c g -5 c . -r 'S

■ d ^ ".-a ^ 3

' 13 _C O >- -c

’■S^g£ S 1 g

I £ I -a S .5
.r§d^o

- ^ ӣ Qv^ G

§ .2-2^

: g 2

- > «u

a S rt
^ > G

oi <U ^

^ 'G ^
o ^ 73

- -G G

rt T3 *rj
o CJ

-2 5) g

« g.o 3 g

3 X ° ~ $

v T3 ^ O

rrt 4J CJ C/5

£ .. 1- cj &0

= " 3 53 c

■2 s ° 3 c

j^Jio _o _2

O ^ J3 "u bfl

_, O o

G g ’G '

CJ -G *-■
rC T3 ^

CJ

1 ^

3 rt - W) o

* krH 3

S S rG

>.£ S'

Vh o

— 5

G 4-> rt

P — .y uT
,2 rs c i>
c § u J

3 5 g s

Co2°
o - rt-13
PQ

i_t c

O^O

S -s B rt VO Z' V

m m c i „ nri +Z
J3 O C M C

O C c « « (i-o

„ 4J .2 w
O C3 J3 >- S

; 33 3 O •— 1 —

j 3 rt E's 6 c g
:J.Sd^So

>%-G

C CJ .G to

D oj ^ . >^

j_, CJ o CJ -*-< s-i

2] S w 2 CJ

w §i2 S g £

C g- o, c o

s6s.sS^

o c g rt'0'2

^ £ t— . t/3 s
3 b ^ a £
^S.O C u

s -g « c

_-s

rt CTJO

VO

0 J o
1&S*0 2,0 O ON N mo u-i^°
P'=«'S

c^OvO ^ o

N M M N

| E 0 I B ej E B a E

u~) o, ~ o ^G-v^^GHd-d

m u-j CV rovO Cv ^ tooo O

^ o
£ .
d £

to G*

" to

vO

.3f° ° Go
'G 0 N ^00
. O vo . vo

£2£eS

O G^ Gh to G*
^vO Ov to
vd vd

last remaining thermometer was broken.

332

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

£6

G

o tn

<D

g g c

^ W n

H3 * P
• £; O

£%R

G lo

P

O

G ^

3.S
-C c

d

’-a

<s> 0)
<L) if)

03 G

G 3

VO rC

Sq

jH •

^ ro

fc/> «
~ rG

"O

iO

>>

d

T3

S c-°

in g
O

O <u

<D ^ i <U

5 O

jr

O d

T3 _

( p •— i # JD •

■S •£ £

M*. 6fl
^ C'e

G C -5 rP G3

B-5 g &

w M W ri

:§§o>u^

t/T '•£ rj

$"0.fcJ3

G

G G rQ
<G G g

^ G

. "d

b/)_<

.5 13
c

<D

o

G <J= 3
"13 'G £

G

|'l

G

• C g

?^coi

w -

S |j

G §

<D *,

>>JJ

£ 3,
£ co

bJD

G ° •

<u

P£~ 2

3>~> c

> Q

G CO ro^ WJ

a .'o
G Cj
G ^3

<D <« - „

; *T3 _j G .G

5 £ O .S?S^
5 e.“C5

co

v

P 5

^*5

S 1

v*_

*< o

1 s

. ws
>,.S
a c

;a

$*

28

:5

1) 5
° ,9
£ O

G

"13

G

-G - £

fc/3 J C

g Fs

5 g§

•§ 5*

- 3-

o 3

t/j 2 r

c y.S

= E
= =

"U

G

O

U

P c

b C
G C

^cg o eg O
vq oo . . oo 9° oo

y5 N vb b> ' *

00 ^ CO ^ CO

md ^ 'g vb ^5 mo

N N M ^ ^ <N

G G

tn

CO

... 1 «

3 a i 6 I

LO «

LO O
ON

00 0°

'• NO
VO (N
N .

vb 'g

OJ N

ro

00

»J0 _ _

oo O i_o O
^3 V= f^-?> !

= £

cL ^ cj ^

^ £

£

, - _ .. ci 3 &

«2»2'C> ^ r^2

i a

d Pt

O O
ro fO

vb o’

vO

i?3 1-?5
°;vS'g'8

G

ci

. 8 g

d • G

o ” ^
^ 2

vd .

H S

i S

lG

d ^

r~i O

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

333

s i

.e A

i a!

:

& cL, £

c £

i >-, m

3 _

h c ’

£

o

•=3 O . -G
3 1- t/!

w- ij -
«!>

>>.£

: u c u

3SS.S

- « g ^
: c o c
s c/3,7; s s

H {j/i 3 I/l

3

ri

o

S s

Ph o

G

d,

t/>

<U

=; -c

1? bfl

U

■"C ‘c/> rG

: 3 rt bfi

: Gh o
s OQ

"d

OJD

o

00

f— ^ c

•-to1
g-“ *.
c

5-1 ►-!

S'iS

i^i

77 5-<

-Go;.

G
* 3

c/3

'S ^

u

5 0E?o
P

o

Ph

4J 2 a v.

3 -§

. ,§ ^ .§

Wl Cl. p ^3

cl 3 ^ u ,‘

^ S

,,c - 6 S s
o ~ ~ • 3

r- CS ^ 'V)

43 C 8

►,.g 13 3 ■'■* ^
S’c “ H 5 5

^flil

. -Q,

<V r-*

^3 w

3 s

O C/3

0

in _t . j

^ G g on :

12 * §

O S O^ v> 8

'o'g S"«

. § *8 8 8"
g >,^9

rf •» I— 1 « • rN

m o U

o 2 .s > "H 9
ro*5 W „ a

N.S^S^

. C rt 11 u ^

.3 ,j3-s

E s -3
Sd.SSg’?

Q Q

<U >>

in >-.

C3 0)
V >

0 o
G

*rt ^

G „

^ 73
OG w
•*-> tJ3 3
C/3 .4T o

£ G £
G3 G3 >
G 3 O

’*-’ <U

o . .i3

s

> .^H <u

(D C
C/3 QJ

I

~ G
Oh O

CU -

rG £

. O
^ G rG

V • ^

£ O > .

0 ro 3 b/j

• 03 4T

03 .C

D o «
■8^-a
JJ « w C

5S -3

O CL.C

fc « s o

dj3 O

cn £

0JD d;

.c C7

'c ti >, cs

o.S^.c

_ > .3 L.

77 >

T3 ?. rt
<D G J2 ^
77 3 Ph^
.N C(/) ^

^ o

T3 O . kT

og^

CJ >-

S £

pH Ph

\o o un o n ° «

r"9<o Y*p ^^vb^vovovo^r-vb'g^^vCN

vsN^vOONvOO'OvOvOCJO<NNNvPvg(MNVOvO<NvO vg

Cl M N M Cl M . N . . N c ^

C w A . .rz.cPG-l.nP-l^Z^t:.

d £

-• S A B s £

7 a. 2 ~. g 3

= G G S c e

^ • c. rC rt r

a.

S 6. £

R O rt ^ G G P Pq PhqooI! ^ o 0 M IT 0 M

1^ rO VO r^vO NNvO <Pn ^ r? r? r? 2 £ r? 2 hH r?2

vO vO ^ vO ’""’ ''O dvd Qv1^ ^

O c>. r^ f^, .

00 r>. cs ■ vO vO
vbvo ^ W
M M N • •

C d s H S. S

S. S. ^ «*

3 cJ (X o O

00 N O £ ^
w H.n OvO

00 ^

O

ro

VO

334

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

' 2 ^
3

3 3 jr;

• — . o ^

^.cC

.S^ "

*>

^Sgfj

~ O *p3
j2 • ^ ^

<D ^** ^

^ M bfl

O 3 c

c/> 3 ^ 3

GO 9

>>

>

3

OX

rO

OX

>

j- ay

-S-5

aT

O

u->

by)

_c

3

b/>
m .3

IS

3

3

VO

g

*3

ay

S<,

w 3

co

Oh

TJ ^

2"°

30
3 .5

ov

3 ^

6 ^

3 *3

CD

E^iri "
S's°u
m s-a >

o--
-5 3 ft

cO- &

•- O Oh

05

3

T3

3

3

£

o

C/3

^ 00 <D
3 £

<D > O
rC 3

<D

i rG

CD -

S<0 2

•" i

£2

O

>

>N Si

•£

3

c/) , ,

£ ?|

3

w Oh
^ Oh
20 O

<— « <L> s— •

■Sc; 4!

(D

L T3 C

i! 2>

CO'

VO

do

3 jJ

5!

CD

CC ^

.a*

£ 3 '

N 3
n

3-3

C/3 -3 — •

wen

<D

£ +5
O ,3
r3 .by)
^ *3

r3 m

by)

aT ^ bp 3 >>,

T3 b c .- L/

CD j3

lb

'c>

£ S

CD ^

• — 2 > 3 3

£li — * ax 3

>*• , >^

C/)

vO

. CD

£.5 a
d^c" _

^ Q

— i- fl
3 g

. £

(L) — • ^ ^

^>Q g * §

O >>

^ ~ ^
^ 33 3
•3 X)

T3 _ r-
3 3

-‘-’ T- 3 3 _

S«S-
* <u (i-S, -

d .5? <U 3

S‘3 ^c.S-^
> p4 to

_c <u
H a>
• S

O o

>° O

■ tv. r- “ ^ w

O ^ 9

r^p vo^o C^b ^ p ^ vb p r-P Kp P p 'b'b> -^b> r-

<;vOvO- ^ ^ M ^ vO CN NvOvOvOvn'OvOvOvd ^ ^ vo

^trl O

.8.8.

«*

> °

:p

w> ^ o w M ^ rt rt 0,0-3 3^0^0 ™

VO vo ^*72 2 ^ ~ OVVO N o^H

o vd ctm^. ^ vd dv

c. g

^ 3

g £ S.

3-?

vo 2 ^

GO

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

335

<D ^

■£ *

O

43 .>
* 3>
p <u
ri CL
X §•

s-g

C3 d

.£ a =

« S 3

3 tS • U
_ . 'C >,

43 4 C
*-< 4 .3 < L)

g &.*>
c o ■§,

£ «

O Cn~

g £ '

n rt

N 13

3 s

i E d

1 rt o
C

2 o’5

■s 'c" _

00 " . J3

? txO G rt I ^2
C c ~ g « o S
4 43 •- 3 p 43 co G
1* W3 G O Cl . • ^

3 >_ g jp

<L>

na

P >» >

c s «

1>~ O

5 <3 o
o >.U

6

<l

3= c

5s jj, “ ^

*2 d)

oTp< c

H

rt d'

CL . -p
- biD £

2 £ *

c dT

g>s«

’£ = S 5 ►> g

. o d>
d) c «
• Tj Q
>\g
rt u n;

^ So'o
T3 ^ <->
C — «

rt ^

; a

*c o c y
Q o S

> S O o rt

O G G V

V ~

(U ■> o
-*-* ^ o

u

o

£

C3

'O

o

43

G

a>

2

'o •
° Js

.JT.bl)
3 ’5

Q

c3

'O

°ss

</5 Q. £

Cu °
O O to

13 . <U

1^13

£ c

d> 3

fe M-g

• • '£ °
®SJ»»

d> G s' >

3 43

■S s

c u w

‘ S c

C C3 a;

C ^

•G 10 Co ~
0^0--
• T3 ** 3 r b/)

r P txoco G G

Dh

o

d) N

^•a
-£ ^
O C3

r- d)

C 43

M Oh

bvO

£
.b ft
*G
£

6

T3

W

d)

Scattei
Lightnin
a.m.
rand aft'
l lightni

Fine at
ldless ni:

tp

5

Jd

. ooo.~

O

a

0

kViCG ^

13 „

^ t yc’c .g
t: £ £ rt

(-J _ u.

SB u

D

E c

S . <u =!

p®-

CM «

<u S

> g

d'£

■Si s

■5 u? c n

B hf

$3 ^ •-

. 4-»

n

§ g^

> ^ o
rf -Ss w
<u k
43 k

^ w G
CU O

«43 o

c3 {2 g

- r--» 3^ _, V.\J CZ J-H

D4 u U u 1;

ci

T3

c 0|> cj 5 J S 5 2

Q<i Sn OO

o

th 8
G „
G _P

P N

o *r

cj

T3

>

aj

d)

43

G

O

o

tV o

I'S

re's

x «

£ 3

.£ c=

pH ■“

cr v

Effi

• Si 4)
S.E

4J ’S

1/5 G
C §
d> 3

G 13

43 -t!

%*

3 O •
O G

U

2, O o vn rj

*^<0 r^p r-

\ vb . o ^ VD o

* N N ^ M r)

E s £

O , _ Q \>i O

v-.®° 1C o o o o u-. ioqp r- ^ ic o

M VO VO W» tHtv IH-vO VO 'O C. ^

^ « n « " « N j j

g E £ g £ £ £ E £ £ "• « d. g £

4 P_G-4 rt cL.cS O-cS dmyivr^O^pj O-.

‘ CsvO O ^ ^ h ON VO vO vO VO "1 . n- vO 5

*-• ^ h v vovO ^

0 vlC w 2. 1C ^ C" w>o 'R

j^vp t^r^f^r^vo t^t^'

vb'bvb'i)'£vb Nvb'd'S

n«nn% hNN,

£ £ £ £ i g d. £ £ S

d cLd cl ^ d o os cL ^

vO vo no vo 2 VO CO

« ^ NO

c

o

o

G

o

f^.

10

G

O

o

G

O

rO

NO

o

N

10

O

W

to

S E

d d

no no

£ £
d d

to to

Tj- ■-

to NO

NO

M

r>*

00

CN

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

337

T3 S'?

.2 |5j 5

£

6 c -3

•?£

oo

_0

"o

- 8 o

.55 o o

« •£

tf) .—

C £

0

« <u

„r a

— V

~>

7? v

<; ni

Md
.2 >,
a s

1-1 —5

bn

c

N O
<u £
<U •*-*
£ C/2

*“ 04

^ £ rQ

■*"' O

--g >>

^ £

£ o

IIS®

" O c J

■fi.M'O

4?*Sf

. M M

g aJ .2 -

5.2 c £

2 O c

j-3 M*

c- S c C

- S *C O
2 S °

>>TJ

O

■e «; b/).

a; ^ r

- . nr„ n «

_ _ . . „ 52 C/3 '
to .2 a .73 3

£ s*« *3

<L> P Ty •*-! '

O 32 o’g <S'
V • — o 5 k.
>>o £ - rt ^

£ TO 5 r

o c: .s cc o

U

£ ^
d >;

M £ '

TO

o

to

Q '

SI

• ■ * a-1

2 ¥-5

c ” ">
g d

— 1 J-H ^

rt O

■ — ' * <L>

^ ^ £ •£ ~

K£|S g
>13< C B
<u o o

..2^~ g
^h|S £

3 d

"s ^3 <!

„ ffi £d j

.« i£ £ c

£ £ c ^ 3

g 8 » » E 2

o o a3 g 2 >>

fi>tv3 o^

fcJD 3 .7TO >, «

u.2 ° -°d s
c 5 u . o *3
o ^ ^ n s

T3 bJO . C vj

**§? .U

•Th TO w ^

£ ,2 " w "3

y-4-.3>-'-drC</>

. M.H M's b M G >N 3 <u M ‘

".2Eho°SC3 3 2c!

11 a c c 5 S » ^

3 I S P ^*!2 - -

-c „rr

^ ^ w
mQ^

. .2 w

>,cS«

® o ^

S o . o
3 a ^3

> !- t/7

"'.SPJ3
„ c .-

j ^ 2 ^

’ N -G „

: <u — c

: 2 mo
o^.Sgj
« .- *a b j=

c C! ■

-i m 5 <Z ^ —, O — ■<

> 2 2 O d C •■> o M o (3 T3

',3 c s j= 3;,-g2 = o ;r ?

u >

<u ■“ d

oW g « -3 o (»h *3 Cri’

Q u P Q

u

r — * •-'

O O

u u

O'

"-a

G g
(L) to

p

:» ■o’o^in

?S»s^«ss

■•« 0)"° 'gvb oi

: m

N

2 2

5 C
i rt I

7^0 :«oN

^ On

°tgcSc»tStC‘^o^“ot?3fSo

^«n.%n^8n^'8n”

gSSSg£-.^2g.gSE

o w ci o d

M O

u a u "* i-M ^ 0 O O O

^ ^ ro ro ro

00

VO

lOvO

. . w

u

o rt

w VO

5 £

■,

vO

£ £ B £ S
to d, ^ to d
^ ^ ov ^ 2 O'

0

ro

LT)

o

vO

vr>

£

TO

vO

vO

O

to

to

TO

vO

o

O

vO

£

TO

O

co

vO

o

CO

vO

£

ci

r>.

o

CO

vO

g

TO

0

CO

vo

c

TO

O

co

vo’

o

vO

VO

o

vo

o £ o £ o
^tH. O vO
VO rt vo cj vo

O go
O C. tJ-
VO rt T*-

o

vo

VO

o

O

co

O

co

VO vo

VO*

TO

vo VO
N N

C" 00 Ov O

M 04 CO

CO

04 CO tJ- vo vO

r>.

o,

■<

z

Min. Thermometer.

338

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

rt

^ B
■§ 2

^ 3
^^3 m

o § S
o .5
U -fn

£•* 8

1 0 §

c ^
.5 o d
„ « >,
•S'?'?

C O °
<u

£ LO

c

<u *•
T3 . >0
c j3

■5

fie

3 K

fcJD

.s

*s

6 £ o

£ p §

. o £
£" «
^ 2^
4J bJJ^-.
S C C
«3 •= u
. P o

b,S!5

^ bp a

>3 S?

rt Q

C S'

to

c

W

o _

>>

rt

T3

3

to

rt Ti

y c
& *
> c
o o
o
u5 a
o X- '-
«

07.^
G G

fl’S s

o -*

O’SO

H ^

j-< d
«2 6

S <

Q P > u v

rO in

§=5

2 nd
. G

r— I C3

£

Sr ^
£ »-«

S ^ ~

_r ps

£ ~

g§c

M w .G

GO 2

'*-’ b/) G

1/1 C(fj

C/5 'G

<U c

*3 2 ^

g.gpcs

O ,G <D

55

<u £

So .

<u

>

3 £ "C
<U G G

r=l ^jd

33 ~ +-

Q

rO

>>

rG

to

rt

nd

G '-

M rt c

o P

U

>>

rt

nd

n ^

u

S'

T3

Ti OJ P
G N ~

5 g <D

, gJ c/3

"3 ’-Q 5

Q P

np £
£ ^

« &
nd _,

G -5
O .G

u *.

j £
e t3

o "
V-p
00

c;

nd O

« o

in

rt jd
<u o
o £

c

vn .

^ r^ n 00

*0 vO • kO
M vO m vO ^

s. g e g s

rt "C cj • C5

O ^ o ~ O

^O nO «

''O 1-1 vQ KO

^ « O''

i? ul o U100
») " Sto (1 N

N 'g vO 01 vO 01

S S £ ^.

rt . rt

3 S

o ^ ;
vd ^

rj‘

00 °P 00

^ vb

w ^ N

£ S £

O f^vo
co f^co
MD "g Od
W w N

G ~ G-
ci 03 rt
H3 CO

c^5

00

M3

8“i o3
o E
a 2

S S

S^~ c ^

. <v Q v
o^-rd O
. rt G rt
-0=0-5

o <n
i-n" ^
CO

lOM

O

& d o) wHVd'fi d ^ ^ d o d

C -Lf) Lrtrt '-rtrt Lrt^ ^ £ '-rt rt '-rt £ '-rt £

.0 .0 .O .0

C ^ C w P ^ P CO P

rt rt rt rt rt

d.

<

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

339

3

o

U

3

T3

>>

c

m2h

3

w ~ IS
H

■C
; to

„ o

g

•3 'P

o

U

g to

D

^ o *3
S^.g

'5

5 5

cs -g 42

O £ ~

<v **03
. > £ 3
W O O V)
.2 >'Fbo &
Sjo^

3

V G c i S

w u

o .

<D O

g js js
« "2 *3
5 a
- J2 o
" uo .
e u _12
g c m .£

2£ fr*

P*h 33 —
3 o

. >,> 8

&& e

bJ3

w 'es . J2

w w c

C/5 O *-

N cJ
02 w 50 c
y > .3

o^i S"S

c ra 3

13 “ -2

t/. T3 r )
C 3 '

<L) *5 — ' T5

.■£ ^3 2 c

3 3

O'*

o

d|°

~*2 £

v

*3

<u 3

JrCO

S! cu

2 *3

“o £

g^T3

• =

£

d,

►— < K
<U

C. 3

3 O

onu

- c ^ b^t.

nj ^ o 2^ w '
’qP u > ^ M

1) N 3
O CL* .2 i/>

o,Su

3 "£ •

&.£?- 1

, CJ ^

"a a ^ >1
C o d' N
<u ^ o JJ

^ ri
C 2

o.Q O

&-.-Q

M’S

■ c's
w

3 B

r\ y/
ON O

ss g 2*S*

« 2l-

"W

s £

Oh (JJ

2 «

M <u

p

r- «/)

£ CD

3 <5

Q C/3
3^ C/3
£

3 ^

^ 3

fcJO^

3

a

u 0
^‘S'g

<L> cr1 3

3 . 3

^ j 3
« 03 T3

° O n

> .c.
^ >-»

•ti ^

£

% o ^

£ 3 C/3

° '£
^ biD £

£•

6 £

Q

d

T3

3

JD

u

2

u

3

3

OJ

>>

T3

3

3 OJ >,

w g o

3^ C

Q W

3=§s £

E £

-d Oh

r^O

vO

uo

00

vb

N

VO

g

d

t^.

. • t^vO

VO vO * -n M

m pjVJVU
lN k’ N N

3 Oh (
VO ON r

O

ON

vb

M

g

d

O

ro

vb

0

i^i

00

3

d

o

VO

Cv

3

d

o

M

CO

3

o

c

3

o

O

CN

o

vO

VO

o

vO

VO

o

O

vO

o o o

f^. o

T}- vovO

o . o . o . o . o

't 3 3 d- 3 d*0 3

O

CO

o

o

co

VO

O

vO

VO

o . o
- c ^ c
’t 3 3

d d d d

d bn d

d d

co

t''* N vO N

o

o

VO

o

VO

vo

o

co

vo

3 d"

o . o g o £
ON c vo . vo .
CO 3 tJ- 3 3

. Max. Ther-
Min. Thermometer. mometer.

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

34i

>>

* £

> . a

n S'O

.2 >, *
52 gjpq jg
■5 « -3

Ns §

> C go
rt O 0

£

S

1 cd __

: 0 2

U

u

o

ON

§)

S'!

c S“

« °

•g.8

oO

l' g 3
1 S. o

Cj o

vn

.— « '■-* C3

#rt

§ £ $

Oh tjQ O

II

"bJD

• rv D

N 2

T *5

o

t-H C/5

>-H

o 0

2 o
^ -a

J3 m

J2 >

^ <u

45

K S

h-> vn
c/5 ^
rt , ,

45

G

Oh

Qv

N ^
■ ^ 05
Jm <u

Q

o
. o

sC

u

<L> 4

> B

Oh .

. >>

o

. .'o 0^3

tjQ “£h 05

.5 § g jg

| £

10 a 00 J2
U

T3

3

_o

u

u

u

05

U T3

II

o u
U

45

H

ps

.vb

O O vo

0)N

CO

S ^O

o w <n rJ
00 t^CO ^ 00

S' S' S' => 8s

E E s. £ s.

cj O Oh fj O
t^vO O ^ on

ro

ro

. c

* ci

° o

b P o P' ^co ooooOnPocnPo

S'S'S'S'&SS'&i?,
^ S i s’ s £ £ 4 E £ s. £

- ^ ^ rt* ^h ^ Ci

^ ^ ^ M t'x'O 2 2 ^

ro o

00

0 2.

fO

00

G c o p o .0

O ". N ^ -

rt JX ^ rt Wfi roc

00 o d ci

fO <0 ro I^ 10

00 00 CO

^■<0

VO HH
. VO

*-• C* S ro c

VO O . vO :

rt ^ «

^2 *

Oh VO

000 0O go G . _

E .s? E 00 E .0 E g g

vo rt *o cJ

o o

vo vO r>»

N 01

M ro -3-

10 vO

* Having no maximum thermometer, and being in town all day, was unable to register,
t The maxima recorded are those taken at the Imperial Observatory, Rio de Janeiro.

gx n

X For converting Centigrade readings to Fahrenheit — if x = Cent, reading, then H 32°= deg. Fahr.

342

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

•"G

G

- <

n-i ^

3

o

fcxo

G

O

^ b D

•S

E

S

T3

3

O

U

bD

_C

G

G

c3

pt-i

>>

3

rU

mbp

G

u

£

'bjQ

*3 JS ja

, , V-M

'G

>> G r
T5 OT).
3 O 3 k
G O /

u u

W G

<L> %
</>

-O O

§U

U

00 8 d
.S £ ^

G ^ c/3

Jh ka in

Hr <u

ctf £5 G

<U c/3 O

!U u

tj _

u ffi

o

M 00 Gn^vO *>00

O 00 00 H° 00 Qn 9° ^

^ w M M N N

= S S g S E S' g g S

3 d 3 ^ ej ^ cj ^ 0
ro

fcgS ? - popg-ogo go^u,^;

g'tl ON-^^nOoOPoi:.0- .0- O' ■ CO CO ? ,

’’S

« a s e s s 0 s s- s • s g- • g- • g . - g- . . g ^

XJ^ n n0r,0 o ^O A

~ 2 ^ 2 <? 2 ^ OS <? g 2 ^ 2 2

; oo ;

Vp

G-

ro i-f t-H

: vo c vo

. o G o g
3 oo G co G

< LO <-j LO cj

McMfiN^S^Sg, .0^00

LOGlo« 'sf* ’tcjlOrtlOS^SSSSo

VO G\'i

•1 ci

00

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES.

343

r. U

jo c
T3 .5
3 tin

S3 5

13 -gj-d

e-g.S

‘g - £

a I °

5 % ~

cj 3 ^

*Mtj
J“j3 C

•- £

u **

in

• >v7j

1 5 c
; S.2
- 3
. £>8

0 <U 0

i> a

| 73

1 ..a

rt

"O

3 T3
rO T3

„r£

£73

*.a

)PS

op £ .2

c eh

3

_■ c ^ § -a

S g’g ° “a

„ cl T3

•g “■> ••£ « g

.5 _m £ is d

? § '■> T) O rt*

coSgu-o

<u

SV’e»

*^3

>,0

V ,y> O °

0 $
rt «

V r—

y: 3

O g

u O

0

£

o

"So

>%

rt

>>

cj

T3

3 o*

D

^ufi
o 3 c«

U

J2 CJ

U *

£

o

'So

pH

SO

cj

^3

O

CO

Ov

So

PQ

U U CJ

T3

3

0

3

s

3 ^
.$p
*S

II

CJ 3

nL r jy

1 s? u

G rt

W

co

CO

O

VO

to

O

CO

M

O

r vo

vO

O

00 fVN

O^vo

to

O

oo

pN r^OO

ON

pv

o

O

■-1

O

f

J-1

O 7

o

° n ^

o

On0?0 On

On

Cv

CO

o

o

o

o

o

co o

CO

^?0o

co

Cl On Cl

Cl

N

co

CO

co

co

CO

. co :

. * co

. Cl .

g

d

rt

o

g

rt

rt

g

rt

g

cj

6

Cj

6 3 i
rt ” *

o rt

g

rt

o

s a j

o 3 ri

a

Cj

O

g a a

rt ^ rt
O ^ O

a

rt

O

co

r^.

Cv

00

co

CO

CO 2 ON

CO

co 0>i co

co

o

tT

rT

o

op

Os

O

ON

o : • u u

Cs 10 to to

- 3 O .0

O O 3 cj-

to 3

Si 2 ib rt io fa

3

lo G
ci rt

r. n n n CJ »0 *0 Q ci *-» > *-r J w n

O ^v iO CO O VO VO VO Sd ^ VO vO To

00 G vO in vo • • . O c • • • .t'x

so o .o .o Go Go Go .30 Go Go Go Go
) 3 ‘"vO r- N flvO r- \ O . vO . rt . d a <Si *-« C. rt ~ rt . vO . 00 a

n G J-, rt G rt a t S m cj d ^ ri ^ ^ ^ in ri io cj io rf ci ^ ^

rt'^rt rt rt q q o rt-^o O O O 03

ON oo i"* co co co On co co co co oo

tT r^. r^. r^, r^. t^.

to V0 00 CN

Cl Cl Cl Cl Cl

O *-H M CO rf LO VO
CO

3

344

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

S

d

o

£

W

d P

P .
O

ci O
>? b/J

c-S

<u i-4

2.S3

u g

>

<L>

.5 tj

go

o

^ _
T3 c/T
cd ^

<u D

c/3 TO

3 r

oJO f

.S ° '

E

pq

-a g

Tl *"■<

>%

TJ

3

O

CO

u

p

,o

S

U

.too

C

<L)

c

E

u

*2 c
C3 O TO
TO <J C

C/3 SO P

U -r

to

C3

TO

O

O

TJ

ts o

i J

J ij ci o
' 82 -
. j; 2 -e

5 8 E g

U PR

TO TO
3 P

o o

U U

. o

>%vO ,

r &< .

d

TO

TO

o .

<o ci

TO P

o £
° CJ
>>

2*00 £>> g

o

u

ri -J2

p

O .P

O

CO

'§st

~ ^ y

p *55

■§^ l S °

1) QJ ’*7>

O C

co U

U

<u c3-^^-2-- a

M ^ ^ 'c'cuSw

to

rt

TO

C/3 .

c/3

<L» '■*'*

N 00 co

^ ON^? ON
^ On ^ On ^
o N . N .

■g • £ ■ £
►5 S d S d,

p o p o

00 <OoO CO

c S ^

r*

O •„ o.

S g S

P X P

O O

CO P M CJ M co

. s . . . .

£dE£££

cd O cd d ci c3

00 m

I -S’

| §
cu

S-tn

is

4) <U

H aJ
.fe

vO vO

O

VO

vO

lo VO

LO

VO

O O . Co .o pO Co CO
Oc^C-Oc^^OTOT^c

VO P 1/3 P ^lOC lOpi lOfd UNrf

rrtfrt-^nnoP
co oo

P O

3 ^

VO

w p
00 00 CO 00

o

CO

o

CO

°^p' p p.

. p o P 3 o
CO T T- c c/3 CO T c/3 VO c

c ^d c ^o ^

ON

o c:

CO

MONKEYS , BATS.

345

Note. — In presenting these meteorological notes, and vouch-
ing for their accuracy, I regret that they are but scanty and
imperfect. My excuse must be inexperience of this work, lack of
necessary instruments, and pressure of other duties.

Short Notes on Animals, Birds, and Reptiles.

Monkeys ( Quadrumana ).

Primates, these are represented at the present day by a great
number of species, but few traces of their genera are found in the
cave deposits of Brazil. The most remarkable feature is the
number of species with prehensile tails, a character not existing
among any of the monkeys of the Old World.* All the South
American monkeys are embraced in the family Cebidce.

I had no opportunity of observing closely any but the mar-
mosets, which approach the lemurs. These ( Jacchus ) abound in
the forests near Brumado (Entre Rios de Minas), and exist even
in the thick woods round the Corcovado, near Rio de Janeiro. I
brought home two of the Jacchus pencillatus, or black-eared mar-
moset, which I bought at Bahia. They became very tame. One
of them died early in June, and the other June 24, 1885. There
were also on board the Valparaiso many of the Jacchus vulgaris ,
which has white whiskers instead of black. The native name of
the marmoset is sagui.

Bats ( Cheiroptera ).

I collected no specimens of bats ; but on examining those at
the British Museum, I recognize a species of Phyllostoma (not
spectrum ) and Desmodus rufus. The latter I came across fre-
quently, and was told that it attacked cattle. I have mentioned
my horses having been attacked by a vampire ; it may have been
the one I now refer to.

Captain Burton f says, when staying at Barroso, near Sao Joao
del Rey, “ Rising before dawn, ... we found from the blood-
clotted hides of our animals that they had suffered severely from
the vampire ( Vespertilio naso, or Phyllostomus spectrum) . . .

* Liais, “ Climats, Faune,” etc., pp. 554, 555.
t “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. pp. 107, 108.

346

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

locally called . . . ‘ morcego,’ andira or guandira. These big
ruddy-brown bats, of ghostly flight and cannibal tastes, are con-
fined to the American continent, and they unaccountably prefer
particular spots. ... In Sao Paolo and Minas, no case of a man
having been bitten by the ‘ ugly spectre bats ’ came under my
notice. . . . However . . . Cabiza de Vaca (1543) was wounded
by the leaf-nosed . . . monster near the lake Xarayes. Messrs.
Bates and A. R. Wallace, and . . . Mr. Charles H. Williams of
Bahia, suffered in person on the Amazons, where the rhinophyll
appears to be decidedly anthropophagous. The mode of the vam-
pire’s attack has of late years become the subject of debate. The
wound is softly and skilfully inflicted. I never saw my horses or
mules terrified by it. Prince Max. asserts that it uses its teeth.
Gardner believes the puncture is made by the sharp-hooked nail
of the thumb. Lieutenant Herndon thinks that the tusks bite,
while the nostrils are fitted for a suction apparatus. Others trace
the wound to the papillae of the tongue. . . . The armature of the
jaw, however, speaks for itself. It must be like a Vision of
Judgment to awake suddenly and to find upon the tip of one’s
nose, in the act of drawing one’s life-blood, that demoniacal face
with deformed nose, satyr-like ears, and staring fixed saucer-eyes,
backed by a body measuring two feet from wing end to wing end.”
Mr. H. W. Bates says that * “ the vampire, however, is the
most harmless of all bats, and its inoffensive character is well-
known to residents on the banks of the Amazons. ... I opened
the stomachs of several of these bats, and found them to contain
a mass of pulp and seeds of fruits, mingled with a few remains of
insects.”

Capybara and Paca ( Rodentia ).

The capybara, Hydrochcerus capybara (Cavidae), is allied to the
guinea-pig. It is the largest of living rodents, attaining a length
of three or four feet. It is a South American form, leading a
semi-aquatic life, to which end its feet are incompletely webbed.
It is a harmless, stupid animal, and not unlike a small pig in
appearance. f

* “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. ii. p. 333.
f Alleyne Nicholson, “ Manual of Zoology.”

CAPYBARA, PACA, CO API.

347

I did not see this animal, but heard of its appearance fre-
quently on the River Para near Pitanguy. There are many places
named after it. Captain Burton mentions * having seen it on the
banks of the Parahybfina, near the grand precipice of the Pedra
da Fortaleza, on the borders of Minas Geraes and Rio de Janeiro.
The Indian name is capi-uara, from caapiim, grass, gudra, eater.
It is gregarious. M. Liais terms it cabiai or capiguara. There
is only one existing species. Remains have been found in late
tertiary deposits of a species larger than the tapir.

The paca. — I have referred to this animal more than once as
being very excellent for food. It is the Coelogenus (F. Cuvier) or
Ccelogenys (Illiger) paca. M. Liais f points out that both these
names are erroneous : first, etymologically ; secondly, as not being
characteristic of the genus. Thus the name Coelogenus is supposed
to be derived from koilos, a pouch, genus, a cheek ; then the name
should be Genys-ccelus. But then, again, other rodents exist with
this characteristic. The species, which is the only one of the
genus, should, according to M. Liais, be termed Paca Americanus.
It exists throughout Brazil, Guiana, and Paraguay. After dilating
on their anatomy, M. Liais says, “ They run very quickly, jump
well over obstacles, and swim and plunge in a remarkable manner.
They generally seek damp forests and the borders of rivers. They
do not dig, nor cover up the opening of their burrow with straw,
as has been said ; but take advantage of the holes dug by other
animals, notably those of the tatus. . . . They visit sugar-cane
plantations, maize, and potato fields. Their flesh is very delicate
(Iris recherche ), and they are much hunted, for which purpose
dogs are specially trained.

Coati ( Plantigrada ).

These little animals are closely allied to the true bears. I
have mentioned seeing two specimens ; one in the forest near
Paraop£ba, the other brought on board for sale at Pernambuco.
The former was very fierce, having just been caught, and uttered
loud cries, while biting at everything within reach ; the latter was

* “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 43.
t “ Climats, Faune,” etc., pp. 537, etc.

348

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

tame, and a very lovable little creature, with a beautiful skin.
They both had very fine eyes.

The chief characteristics of this genus are, according to M.
Liais, a very long nose, which is, in fact, a trunk, and a long hairy
tail, which is not prehensile. The two specimens I saw twisted
their tail round any near object; but, as they were confined, I
could not observe whether they used it as an aid to locomotion.

The Indian name is cuatf, from cua, belt, tim , nose, which
appears to indicate the flexibility of this organ. M. Liais recom-
mends Cuati as the generic name ; Nasua is the recognized
appellation.

There are two species : C. socialis, cuati de bandas, a

gregarious species, which flees when pursued ; C. solitaris , cuati
monde, a solitary species, fierce, which attacks and kills dogs.
Prince Max. distinguishes the two species ; Azara allows only one.

Ounces ( Digitigrada ).

Onga sussuarana (Felidce). Brazilian etymology is phonetic,*
so I was hardly surprised to find this name spelt in different ways
by M. Liais and Captain Burton. The former has suguarana, the
latter guguaranna, or gugurana.

M. Liais, after describing the jaguars, proceeds to the cou-
gouars or pumas (Fells concolor, Linn.), which approach the lion.
He says,f “ These animals are known in Brazil under the name
of suguarana, and two distinct species are there recognized ; the
true suguarana, called also onga vermelho (red ounce), and
suguarana do lombo preto (with black loins). The former is the
larger.

“ The name Suguarana is an alteration of Qucuacuara, or Gua-
zouara (of Azara), and Soasoarana, Cougouacouara, Quguacarana,
Cougouora, etc., brought from Guiana by other travellers; and it
is also even the origin of the altered name Cougouar.

“kThis name Qucuacuara ;s derived from fu, the food, cuacu, to
cover up, and ara, a final syllable often used to describe a habit.
This word, therefore, means he who covers his food, and is another

* For instance, they write cachaja- or caxaga, for white rum.
f “ Climats, Faune,” etc., pp. 459, et seq.

OUNCES.

3+9

example of the care with which the Indians observed the habits o
the animals, and the interest which is attached to preserving the
names given by them. The suquarana has, in fact, the habit of
hiding its prey under an enormous heap of dry leaves, after having
eaten a portion of it, and returning to this provision when it is
again hungry. It is the only one of the large felidfe of South
America which has this habit, of which I am surprised that
travellers have not spoken. . . . We will, therefore, preserve the
Indian name, so characteristic of its habits, by calling it Felts
sufuarana .”

Captain Burton says,* in addition to what I have already
quoted, “ There are four large varieties of these felidse : —

“ i. Onca ququaranna or ququrana (Mr. Bate’s sassu-arana, or
the false deer), whence the barbarously corrupted ‘ Cougouar ’ —
derived through the ‘Gouazouara’ of Azara. It is variously termed
Felis onqa, or brasiliensis, or concolor, the last term being the best
name. It is one of the biggest. I have seen a brown-red skin
five feet eight inches long, not including the tail, yet it is the
least dangerous. The range of this puma, or red lion, appears to
extend throughout the tropical and temperate zones of the New
World. It is evidently the ‘painter’ (panther) of the United
States.

“ 2. Cangouassu or Cangassu, the largest variety, with smaller
rounded spots of a lighter colour, on a dark red-brown skin.
Prince Max. informs us that in Bahia it is applied to a small
animal whose pelage is marked with smaller black spots.

“ 3. Onqa pintada (painted ounce), also called the jaguarete
(true or great eater). This ‘ Felis discolor ’ is a beautiful animal,
especially when the white field ot its maculae has a light pink blush.
... It is the most dreaded ; it worries and destroys far more
than it needs, and, after gorging itself with the blood, it returns at
leisure to eat the flesh.

“ 4- The ‘ Tigre,’ or Onqa preta, is the black jaguar, a rare
animal now in Brazil, but still found, I am told, on the banks of
the Paraguay river.”

M. Liais gives an account of the jaguarete under the head of

* Vol. ii. p. 21, note.

350

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Jaguars,* giving it the Brazilian name of onga verdadeira or
pintada; and likewise mentions the Jaguarapara (river jaguar), a
smaller animal, also called onga pintada, of which, he says, it is
much fiercer than the preceding. The Indian name was jaguara
tyrye, or jaguar to avoid ; thence, by an easy transmutation, the
popular term ‘ tigre ’ of Captain Burton.

“ The two species of Suquarana climb trees. They both flee
from men and dogs ; even a child on horseback frightens them.
They are not seen near much-inhabited places. They chase the
deer in the campos, f and make occasional inroads into the flocks,
especially the Suguarana do lombo preto. They frequent caves
more than the other Felidte, and enter them in pursuit of pacas
and agoutis.”

Of the four species of onga mentioned by Captain Burton, two
are placed by M. Liais among the jaguars, one among the pumas,
and the remaining species (No. 2) is the ocelot.

Ocelot.

I procured two skins of the grey ocelot, Felis grisea, at Per-
nambuco, near which place the animal is tolerably plentiful. It is
known in Brazil by the name of Cangugu, or Acanga-assu (large
head).

Wolf, or Lobo ( Digitigrada ).

Canis jubatus (Desm.), Canid®. The following extracts from
M. Liais’s J volume may be of interest in respect to this animal,
whose voice I heard occasionally, who passed by my tent one
night, but whose footprints alone I saw.

“ From the standpoint of food habits ( regime alimentaire),
the two species of the genus Canis the furthest removed are the
common wolf of Europe, a fierce and sanguinary animal, the most
carnivorous of all the species of genus, and the Aguara or Guara
of Brazil, Canis jubatus of Desmarest, very improperly called in
Minas Geraes lobo (the Portuguese word for ‘wolf’), and de-

* “ Climats, Faune,” etc., pp. 445, etseq.

f The only sight I had of a deer was the fore-leg of one, sent me from
Pitanguy.

+ Pages 469, 471.

WOLF, OR LOBO.

35i

scribed in most of the works on mammology as the wolf of
Brazil.

“ It is, however, the least carnivorous of all known dogs, and
the food it prefers consists of vegetable substances. . . . The
name of Aguara, given by the Indians to this animal, imitates its
cry, which consists of three loud successive and distinct notes,
which nearly represent the syllables ‘a-gua-ra,’ and resemble the
bark of a dog. ... In the province of Minas Geraes, where this
animal is common, Aguara has become Guara ; but, owing to the
disappearance of the indigenous race, the Portuguese name of
‘ lobo ’ is generally substituted. The suppression of the initial
a is further noticeable in Brazil, not only in this word, but in many
ether Indian names of animals, as the Aperca, Acuti, etc., now
become Prea, Cutia (or coati), etc., probably owing to the habits
of abbreviation in use by other tribes in Brazil.*

“ The cry of the Guara is heard at an enormous distance; and,
in the fine moonlight nights, when this animal prowls over the
prairies, it is not rare to hear the three strong intonations of its
bark. It is rarer to see the animals themselves, as they carefully
avoid man, and hide in the bushes ; they do not even attack
children ; the smallest dog puts them to flight by its bark. . . .
The Guara hunts small mammals and the prairie gallinaceae, but
prefers large insects to these, sometimes even serpents. It
especially feeds on the bark of trees and fruits, and particularly
favours the fruit of the Solatium lycocarpum, called by the natives
fruta de lobo (wolf-fruit).” This tree is very abundant on the
extensive bare prairies, and often attains the size of a large apple-
tree. It is most handsome, and very conspicuous. The flowers,
which are often over an inch across, are of a beautiful purple,
with bright orange centre. The leaves are large and glaucous,
and the fruit is some six inches in diameter, of a fine sea-green
colour. On cutting it asunder, the fruit smells very similar to an

* I often experienced considerable difficulty in understanding the natives,
even when I was tolerably an fait with the language, owing to the habit of
cutting off final syllables, omitting prefixes, and indistinct pronunciation gene-
rally. It is somewhat similar to the Lancashire dialect, where “The nearest
way is over the stile on the right,” was once explained to me as, “ T’next
way ’s o’er t’ steel on t’ reet.”

352

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

apple, and I often felt inclined to taste it, but was informed it was
very bad to eat ; however the ubiquitous and omnivorous pigs
devour it when fallen. It is the largest of the Solanacecz that I
observed. Solanaceous trees are rare.

The Guara is an animal of the campos ; it does not inhabit
the forests. Its usual haunt is those parts of the prairies where
numerous little bushes grow out of the grass ; and during the day
it shelters in the shrubs. Owing to its timid habits and avoidance
of human habitations, I can only suppose that it visited our camp
— some two miles from the nearest village — on the first night,
when we had all retired, in search of our chickens. On our
making a disturbance, it was so frightened that it never reappeared.
None of my men saw it, but heard its cry, and then, after a short
time, its footsteps round about the tent.

Edentata.

The edentates (or toothless) are the lowest order of mono-
delphous mammals. The class is represented by three groups,
which exist solely in South America— the ant-eaters, armadillos,
and sloths ; while in the Old World the scaly ant-eaters ( Manidce )
of Asia and Africa, and the aardvark, complete the number of
existing families of this peculiar order.

Ant-eaters ( Myrmecophagidce ).

M. Liais states that “ to this family the name edentate really
applies, owing to the total absence of teeth.”

There are three species —

1. Mymecophaga jubata, Linn. ; Tamanoir, Buffon ; Tamandua
bandeira. Tamandua is the Indian name for the genus ; bandeira
means “ flag ” or “ standard ” in Portuguese. This refers to its
tail. I have a very fine bushy tail of a specimen killed in the
valley of the Para. It is a yard long, and each hair is from ten
to twelve inches in length.

2. M. teiradaciyla , Linn. ; M. tamandua , of Desmarest ;
Tamandua , Buffon ; T. mirim , or small tamandua.

3. M. didactyla, Linn. ; Four metier % Buffon.

M. Liais gives a long and interesting account of the anatomy

ARMADILLOS.

353

and habits of the ant-eaters ; but, as I did not come across them,
I must refer all students to his elaborate book.*

Armadillos ( Dasypodidce ).

“ The family of the tatus or armadillos is a very natural one,
though it can be divided into several genera. f These animals,
instead of being covered by fur or hair, have a kind of carapace,
formed by an osseous shell, composed of polygonal scales. These
scales, moreover, placed in transversal rows, form a shield on the
head, an extensive buckler between the shoulders, and another on
the posterior. Between these shields are transverse bands, more
or less numerous, according to the species, and movable, so as to
allow the animal to bend its body. The tail, also, with most
species, is covered by scales ; but in some species the scales are
reduced to a kind of tubercle. In their general shape all the
tatus resemble one another ; they have a thick body, short legs,
small head, the muzzle prolonged, and the upper part of the skull
flattened ; the eyes are small, and placed sideways ; the ears,
horn-shaped, are pointed, rather long, and movable. They have
always five toes on their hind-legs, and four or five on the fore-
legs, according to the species ; all the toes are armed with long
hooked nails, for burrowing.

“ By their dental system they are divided into three genera :
Priodontes, Dasypus, and Tatusia.

“ Priodontes has one species only, and it is the largest animal
now existing of the tatu family, the giant armadillo — Dasypus gigas
(G. Cuvier), Priodontes giganteus (Lesson), tatu canastra or tatu
assii of the natives. It is rather rare, not found in the valley of
the Sao Francisco, except north of 190 S. lat. It inhabits also the
provinces of Mato Grosso and Goyaz, and the north of Paraguay.
It digs great burrows. Like the other tatus, its chief food consists
of insects (notably, the masses of larvae in the ant-hills and the
great nests of the termites), and of tubers abundant in the campos ;
but it also devours the flesh of the dead animals it comes across.

“ Dasypus gilvipes, Illiger ( Dasypus with ash-coloured feet), tatu

* “Climats, Faune,” etc., p. 355, et seq.
t Ibid., pp. 343; et seq.

354

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

poyu, known in Brazil as tatu peba. This Indian name pcba ap-
parently comes from the numerous galleries which it burrows
rapidly under the soil. . . . Buffon names it encoubert (from Portu-
guese eticoberto, or covered). Desmarest also terms it Dasypus
encoubert ; Linnaeus, D. sexcinctus. . . . This species is common in
Minas Geraes and the whole valley of Rio Sao Francisco. It is
not, however, the species most widely distributed in these regions.
It is also found throughout South Brazil and Paraguay. Its food
consists of fruits, tuberous roots, and insects. Its flesh is little
esteemed, and is very inferior to that of the tatu-ete. It runs
with moderate swiftness, and can be caught when hunted ; but it
burrows so rapidly and has so many galleries that it generally
disappears first. It is impossible to take it in its galleries ; they
are so multiplied and branched. It comes out by day and night,
but especially in the evening. In captivity, when it cannot dis-
appear into the earth, it flattens itself against the ground, so as to
be protected by its armour.

“ The remaining tatus compose the genus Tatusia of F. Cuvier.
Therefore, among this class we place the commonest and most
widely spread tatu in Brazil, which is called in the Indian tongue
tatu-etd (real tatu), for which name the Brazilians have substituted
the Portuguese equivalent by calling it tatu verdadeiro.

“Tatu-ete of Buffon, Dasypus octocinctus of Linnaeus. Prince
Maximilian of Neuwied gave it the name of tatu with the long tail,
Tatu longicaudatus . ... It is found in all Brazil, as well as in the
Guianas and Paraguay. It is hunted for its flesh, which is of very
good quality ; and because of this peculiarity it is often called in
Brazil tatu veado (venison tatu), and more generally tatu gallinha
(chicken tatu), which latter name holds good for another species
still more delicate, the tatu mirim, whose white flesh resembles
that of a chicken entirely in taste and appearance.

“ The Dasypus uroceras of Lund was at length recognized by
that author as identical with the tatu-ete.

“ The food of the tatu-ete consists particularly of roots and
insects. In the plantations it especially attacks potatoes, sweet
mandioc, and even ordinary mandioc. It also eats sugar-cane,
maize, and fallen wild fruits.

“ This species is excessively abundant in the prairies. In the

ARMADILLOS.

355

valley of the upper Sao Francisco, though it does not make as
many galleries as the tatu peba, we meet its burrows at every step.
It is also seen in more inhabited places, even in the environs of
Rio de Janeiro.

“ The tatu-ete runs away with great speed, but not as swiftly as
the tatu peba. In the campos they disappear very quickly into
the numerous holes with which they have honey-combed the
ground. They are more nocturnal than diurnal, though often
appearing by day. I one day seized by the tail one of these
animals, who was beginning a hole to escape into. All my strength
was insufficient to drag him out, and it needed the aid of a strong
negro. The tatu peba is even stronger than the tatu-ete.

“ The tatu mirim (small tatu) which I mentioned just now is
also called by the Brazilians tatu de folhas (tatu of leaves), because
it lives in the woods in the midst of the dry leaves, under which
it hides, without digging burrows like the other tatus. . . . It is widely
spread over the province of Minas Geraes, but only in the forests,
and is not met with in the campos like the tatu-ete. Its length
is scarcely half that of the tatu-ete. . . . Colour, a leaden blackish-
grey. ... Its nails, according to Lund, are never dirty with the
argillaceous earth, like those of the other tatus. This fact con-
firms the statements of the natives, that it does not burrow.

“ Another species inhabiting the provinces of Rio de Janeiro,
Minas Geraes, and even the whole of Brazil as far as the Guiana,
also Paraguay, is the Tatuay of Azara, called also in Brazil Tatu de
rabo molle (tatu with a soft tail). It is the Dasypus unicinclus or
D. duodecimocinctus of Linnaeus, D. gymnurus of Illiger, and Xenurus
nundicaudus of Lund. Its habits are nearly identical with those
of the tatu-ete', but it inhabits forests in preference to the campos.
I saw a well-stuffed specimen of this species in the Rua do
Ouvidor, Rio de Janeiro, price eighty milreis.

“ Another tatu common in the north of Brazil is known in the
empire by the name of tatu bola (ball tatu), because it withdraws
its head and legs under the carapace and rolls into a ball, entirely
protected in this shape by its shell. I have seen this species in
the basin of the Sao Francisco, at the Villa-da-barra-do-Rio-
Grande ; but it is not met with in the southern parts of the basin.
It is common in the province of Piauhy. This species is the

356

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Apar of Buffon, D. tricinctus of Linnaeus. ... It was called tatu
apar by the Indians, apar meaning ‘ rolled up ’ in their language.
Therefore, I retain the name of Tatu apar. . . . When rolled into
a ball, the strength of two persons is quite insufficient to unroll it,
as I assured myself by experiment. . . . The food of this animal
consists in fruits, grain, and insects. When rolled up one can
throw it to a distance, like • a ball from the hand, without its
opening or suffering from it.

“The Tatu vela of Azara, known by the name of tatu veludo
in Banda Oriental, the D. villosus of Linnaeus, is probably found
in the extreme southern limits of Brazil.

“ The Tatu mulita of Azara, D. hybridus of Desmarest, is found
in the same region as the preceding. . . . It is smaller than the
tatu veludo, . . . and may be only a variety of the tatu-ete.

“ The Tatu pichy of Azara is also in the same locality as the two
preceding species. ... Its habitat appears to extend to 420 S. lat.,
where the cold in winter is as strong as about 50° N. lat. It is,
perhaps, only a dwarfed race of tatu peba, which it nearly
approaches.”

Sloths (Bradipodidcz).

The sloths form a single group; they are phytophagous, and in
general appearance closely resemble monkeys. “ The sloths . . .
are constructed to pass their lives suspended from the under surface
of the branches of the trees amongst which they live ; and for this
end their organization is singularly adapted. The fore-limbs are
much longer than the hind-limbs, and the bones of the fore-arm
are unusually movable. All the feet, but especially the fore-feet,
are furnished with enormously long curved claws, by the aid of
which the animal is enabled to move about freely suspended back
downwards from the branches. Not only is this the ordinary
mode of progression among the sloths, but even in sleep the
animal appears to retain this apparently unnatural position.
Owing to the disproportionate size of the fore-limbs as compared
with the hind-limbs, and owing to the fact that the hind-feet are
so curved as to render it impossible to apply the sole to the
ground, the sloth is an extremely awkward animal upon the
ground, and it has, therefore, recourse to terrestrial progression

SLOTHS.

357

only when absolutely compelled to do so. Whilst the name of
‘ sloth ’ may thus appear to be a merited one from the point
of view of a terrestrial mammal, it is wholly undeserved when
the animal is looked upon as especially adapted for an arboreal
existence.” * * * §

Mr. Waterton says f that in the forest “he travels at a good
round pace, and were you to see him, as I have done, passing
from tree to tree, you would never think of calling him a sloth.”

M. Liais remarks $ there are two families — the Unau
( Cholapus , Illiger) and the A i ( Achaus , F. Cuvier). The Unau
of Buffon has two species, of which only one is spread through
the forests of Brazil, especially in the north — Bradypus didactylus
(Linn.), native name preguiga (idleness). It is the largest of the
sloths, being thirty inches in length. It can swim across large
rivers. It never quits the branches of a cecropia until it has
devoured all the leaves. The females carry the young on their
belly. This animal is generally nocturnal ; when it moves during
the day, it is much slower than at night.

Of the genus Ai (Buffon), the oldest known species is the
Bradypus tridactylus (Linn.), native name preguica ay-ay.§ Its
length is about half that of the Unau. It is found in North
Brazil and in the Guianas. The “ A'i with the burnt back,”
B. ustus (Linn.), is smaller than the last named, and its fur is
blacker.

The collared sloth is the B. torquatus , Illiger, B. Collaris ,
Desm., Achaus torquatus , Prince Max.

These two last-named species are found in the forest regions
of Minas Geraes, Espirito Santo, Bahia, and Pernambuco. I
heard of their inhabiting the lower regions of the Rio Para, near
the Rio Sao Francisco.

The whole family of sloths may be said to be parasites of the
cecropias, || for the leaves of those trees form almost entirely

* “Manual of Zoology,” Dr. Alleyne Nicholson, p. 409.

t “Wanderings in South America.”

I “ Climats, Faune,” etc., pp. 338, et seq.

§ So called from its plaintive cry of “ al-ai.”

|| They are called bicho do Embaiiba (beast of the cecropia tree) by the
natives. — H. W. Bates, “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. ii. p. 56.

358

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

their food. In captivity they may be induced to feed on fig
leaves, celery, and soft vegetables ; but they are very difficult to
keep alive, and suffer long from hunger before they can be led to
eat the proffered leaves.

In the daytime, the Ai may be easily caught ; in the forests
they may drop upon one, and it is necessary to kill them before
they relinquish their hold.

The Visconde de Prados told M. Liais of a curious incident
which happened to him. Passing one day on horseback through
a forest where the taquaras (bamboos) hung over the path, his
travelling cloak, which was on his shoulders, was forcibly seized.
An Ai, suspended from the bamboos, had hooked itself on to his
garment, and he could not make it relinquish its hold. He
determined to let it go off when it wished. But the Ai remained
hooked on to the cloak during the two leagues (eight miles) M.
de Prados travelled to his home, and his men had all the trouble
in the world to make the obstinate animal leave hold.

Birds ( Aves ).

The genera and species of birds in Brazil are so numerous
that, though I had but very little opportunity of doing more than
notice them en passant, I am able, from notes I took, as to local
names and from personal observation, to give a list of some of
the more prominent species. I endeavoured to preserve a few
skins, but the majority of these were destroyed by the damp and
insects.

I have determined the following names, either from specimens
in the Natural History Museum at South Kensington, or by the
kindness of Mr. Sharpe, curator of that department, or from the
following books : “ Beitrage zur Naturgeschichte von Brasilien,”
von Maximilian Prinzen zu Wied, Weimar, 1825-1833 ; and
“ Systematische Uebersicht der Thiere Brasiliens . . . Provinzen
von Rio de Janeiro und Minas Geraes,” etc., von Dr. Hermann
Burmeister, Berlin, 1854-1856.

The classification is from “ Nomenclator Avium Neotropi-
calium,” by P. L. Sclater and O. Salvin, London, 1873.

Turdus rufiventris , Vieill., Turdidce. Zorzal obscuro y roxo,

BIRDS.

359

Azara ; Sabiah, Prince Max. The sabia thrush. I found nests
with eggs, October 26, 1883.

Calliste tricolor , Gmel., Tanagridce. Abundant at Paqueta,
in the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. The green-blue-and-yellow tanager.

Orchesticus capislratus, Max., Tanagridce.

Ramphoccelus brasilius, Linn., Tanagridce. Rhamphoccelus,
Desm. ; Tanagra, Linn. ; Tije piranga, Burm. ; Sangre de boi,
or Pitangui, or tapiranga, native names ; Tion kran, in Boto-
cudo (Prince Max.) ; “ Prachtvoll kochenillroth,” Burm. The
crimson tanager.

Ostinops cristatus, Gmel., Icteridce. Cassicus, Vieill. ; Oriolus,
Linn. The crested cassique. Cacicus cristatus , see “ Homes
without Hands,” Rev. J. G. Wood, p. 244. Native names, jape
or japu ; Jakereiun gipakin, Botocudo language (Prince Max.). It
builds pensile or hanging nests, six inches across by three or four
feet long. Captain Burton mentions * that the trees near Bom
Jardim, 120 S. lat., on the Sao Francisco river, “were tasselled
at the branch ends with nests two or three feet long, bags of dry
and thorny twigs, opening with a narrow entrance at the upper
end, and comfortably lined with soft grass. . . . Plere the tenant
is called casaca de couro, or ‘ leather coat.’ ” He did not see
the bird.

Cassicus persicus, Linn., Icteridce. C. icteronotus, Vieill. and
Swains. ; Oriolus persicus , Linn. ; Japui, Prince Max. ; Jakereiun,
Botocudos ; Merlo, Minas Geraes. The black and yellow
oriole.

Milvulus tyra?inus, Linn., Tyran?iidce. The scissor-tail. A
common small bird on the campos, with two very long black tail
feathers.

Furnarius rufus, Gmel., Dendrocolapiidce. F. fuliginosus,
Rev. J. G. Wood ; Hornero, Azara ; Joao de Barro, Minas
Geraes. The oven bird. Colour, a light reddish brown. Rev.
J. G. Wood says f that it generally haunts the banks of the South
American rivers. I have found it most abundant everywhere. In
the campos, on the branches of nearly every tree, its hemispherical

* “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. ii. p. 316.

t “Homes without Hands,” pp. 310, 31 1. Very erroneous sketch of
nest and sitting bird.

360

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

nests are to be seen, utterly unprotected ; they look similar to a
small bee-hive, made of very smooth red clay ; hence its name
John Clay ( barro = clay or mud). The nest is divided into two
stories. For further particulars, see “ Homes without Hands.”

Xiphorhynchus trocliilirostris , Licht., Certhiada. X. procurvus,
Temminck ; Der Sichelspecht mit dem Colibrischnabel, Bur-
meister. The sickle-woodpecker with a humming-bird’s beak. A
small reddish-brown, speckled bird, with thin curved beak about
two inches in length.

Trochilidce , or humming-birds. These are so numerous and
difficult to determine that I must confine myself to those of which
I brought home some skins, mostly found near Rio de Janeiro.

Heliodoxa Leadbeateri. , Bourc., Lophornis magnificus , Vieill. ;
Gouldia langsdorfii , Vieill. ; Calliphlox amethystina , Gmel. ; Chry-
sola?npis moschitus, Linn. ; Bellona exilis, Gprel. ; Clytolana
rubiginea , Gmel.

The local names are pretty, and, as usual, characteristic : Beija
flor = flower-kisser ; pica flor = flower-pecker ; chupa meis =
honey-sucker.

Celeus flavescens, Gmel., Picida. Picapao da cabega amarella,
Minas Geraes. The woodpecker with a yellow head. The head
has a crest of yellow feathers, and the male has also red cheek
feathers. Body and wings, mottled brown and white.

Ramphastos toco , Gmel., Rhamphastidtz. Toucan. Yellow
beak with circular black patch at the base. Tucano, Azara.

Ramphastos arid , Vig. ; R. Temminckii, , Prince Max. Toucan.
Black beak, yellow base. Red and yellow breast.

Ramphastos dicolorus , Linn. ; Tucai, Azara. Very common in
Minas Geraes. Its voice is extremely discordant and harsh,
sounding like “raac-raac.”

Ara ararauna , Linn., Psittacida. Macrocercus a ., Linn. ;
Psittacus a., Prince Max. The blue macaw. I only saw it in
the Bahia market.

Chrysotis levaillantii \ Gray, Psittacidce. Large green-yellow-
and-red parrot from Para. Seen in captivity in Rio de Janeiro
and Bahia.

The few skins of parrots that I collected were destroyed by
damp, so it is impossible to name the species.

BIRDS.

361

Pholeopterynx cunicularia, Mol., Strigidce. Noctua c., D’Or-
bigny ; Strix c., Prince Max. Die Eule des Campos (Prince Max.)
= the owl of the campos. Curuje, native name. A handsome
crested owl, which lives in burrows, presumably vacated by
armadillos. Outside their nests I found remains of Buprestidte,
Phanaeus, and other Coleoptera, evidently remnants of a repast.*

Milvago chimachima , Vieill., Falconidce. M. ochrocephalus ,
Spix; El Chimachima, Azara ; Caracarai or gaviao, Minas Geraes.
A hawk to which I have repeatedly referred, occurs by itself or in
company with urubus.

Cathartes urubitinga, Pelzeln., Cat/iartidce. Vultur atratus,
Wilson ; C. patens , Illig. ; C. urubu , D’Orbigny ; Der grau-
kopfige Urubu, Prince Max. ; Urubu, Minas Geraes. Turkey
buzzard, a bird I have often mentioned.

Querquedula _ brasiliensis, Gmel., A natidce. Anas b., Briss
and Linn. ; Mareca, Pato Ipecutiri, Azara. A wild duck observed
in swamps near Rio Camapuao.

Cha7ticepelia talpacoti , Temm., Columbidce. Columba /., Prince
Max. ; Kouemm-cudgi, Botocudo. A small reddish-brown dove,
abundant in Minas, where it is called pomba rolla. It is very
excellent eating, and was called Ortolan by us.

There are many other doves, called pomba, jurity, etc.

Penelope jacucaca, Spix (according to Sclater and Salvin), Cra-
cida. P. cristata, Linn, and Gmel. ; P. jacuapi , Spix (according to
Burmeister) ; Jacu guagu, Minas Geraes. Very good to eat.

Odo7itophorus dentatus, Temm., Tetrao7iid(C . Perdix de7itata,
Prince Max. ; Capueira; Uru,Azaraj Hazarat, Botocudo; Codorno,
Minas Geraes. Prince Max. says that the eggs are white, and
mentions that Azara speaks of them as violet blue. There are
sometimes over a dozen eggs in one nest. I found a nest
(December 10, 1883), with six eggs, in some long grass near a
marsh. I was told it belonged to this partridge. The eggs were
a dark violet brown. Prince Max., however, alluding to Azara’s
description, says, “Perhaps he confounded them with those of an
Ynambu, a remark which Temminck has already made.”

* See “ Homes without Hands,” p. 24: “ On the Burrowing or Coquimbo
Owl, Athene cunicularia. ”

362

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Canama cristata , Linn., Cariamidtz. Rhea Americana , Burm.
and Prince Max. ; Dicolophus cristatus, Illig. ; Palamedea cristata ,
Captain Burton ; Cariama, Ceriema, Prince Max. ; Nhambu guassu,
Marcg. ; Emu, Bunn. ; Siriema, Minas Geraes. I have often
mentioned this bird.

Captain Burton says, “ It is about the size of a small turkey,
for which it is often mistaken ; it runs like a young ostrich ; it
generally goes in pairs ; and it builds in low trees. Its ‘ bell-
note ’ is not unpleasant, and it is easily tamed.” I have seen
it in some of the lovely private gardens at Botafogo, Rio de
Janeiro.

Crypturus tataupa , Temm., Tinamidce. Inambu, Prince Max. ;
Ampmering, Botocudo ; Injambu, Burm. ; Nhambu, Minas Geraes.
Very good to eat, somewhat resembling black game.

I also observed the following birds, of which I have, unfor-
tunately, no record but their native names, so, of course, cannot
determine them. Tordilho, a bird like a thrush. Alma de gato
(cat’s soul), a large reddish-brown bird. Captain Burton says it is
a species of Cop?-ophagus (?). Tico tico rei, cabeqa vermelho
(red head), gallo campino. Also several canaries ( Fringillidce ).
I was particularly struck by the song of a bird which I could
never gain a sight of when singing, and my men had no name
for it. It was plentiful in the virgin forest near the Serra do
Cortume (about 3400 feet), and in full song only in the spring
(October). The notes are as nearly as possible as follows : —

M. Liais * says of the birds of Brazil, “ Besides the genus
Rhea, characteristic of American ornithological fauna, to which
belong species of the ancient times, there are two very remarkable
and quite special genera : the genus Cariama (Dicholophus , Illiger ;
Microdactylus , Geoffroy), the Seriema of Brazil ; and the genus
Tinamou ( Tinamus , Lath. ; Crypturus, 111. ), Nhambu of Brazil.
These each furnished a species in the quaternary epoch. . . . The

* “ Climats, Faune,” etc., pp. 302, 303.

BIRDS.

363

Urubus are also an essentially American genus, as are also the
partridges, owls, and others. In fact, the quaternary ornithological
fauna of Brazil approaches the actual as far as genera goes, and
in the greatest of these genera it shows us one species very notably
superior in size to existing species.” Among other recent fossil
remains may also be cited the occurrence of humming-birds,
parrots, swallows, goat-suckers, climbers, and rails.

Mr. Henry W. Bates gives some very interesting notes on the
habits of humming-birds in the account of his eleven years’
sojourn in the districts of the Amazons,* * * § and, referring to the
extraordinary similarity of the bird and moth of that name (Macro-
glossum ), says that all the natives, even educated whites, firmly
believe that one is transmutable into the other. They have
observed the metamorphoses of caterpillars into butterflies, and
think it not at all more wonderful that a moth should change into
a humming-bird.

Mr. Bates, alluding to the urubu vultures, says,t “ My cook
could not leave the open kitchen at the back of the house for
a moment whilst the dinner was cooking, on account of their
thievish propensities. Some of them were always loitering about,
watching their opportunity, and the instant the kitchen was left
unguarded, the bold marauders marched in and lifted the lids
of the saucepans with their beaks to rob them of their contents.
The boys of the village lie in wait and shoot them with bow and
arrow ; and vultures have consequently acquired such a dread
of these weapons that they may be often kept off by hanging a
bow from the rafters of the kitchen.”

Mr. Bates devotes several pages J to a most careful description
of his observations of toucans, and states that “the people of
Ega live almost exclusively on stewed and roasted toucans
during the months of June and July. § The birds are then very
fat, and the meat exceedingly sweet and tender.” He says that

* “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. i. pp. 163, 180, etc.

t Ibid. , vol. i. p. 296.

X Ibid., vol. ii. pp. 336-344.

§ Stews ( refogados ) and roasts (asados) are the standing Brazilian dishes to
which I have elsewhere referred, and which so nauseated me that now even
(twelve months after) I cannot look at a stew or touch a roast chicken.

364

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

“fruit is undoubtedly the chief food of the toucans, and it is in
reference to their mode of obtaining it that the use of their
uncouth bills is to be sought. Flowers and fruits on the crowns
of the large trees of South American forests grow principally
towards the end of slender twigs, which will not bear any con-
siderable weight ; ” the length of the toucan’s beak therefore
enables it to “reach and devour immense quantities of fruit while
seated, and thus its heavy body and gluttonous appetite form no
obstacles to the prosperity of the species. It is worthy of note
that the young of the toucan has a very much smaller beak than
the full-grown bird.”

Toucans can be easily tamed, and make interesting pets.

Various remarks on birds will be found scattered throughout
my journal, but I will conclude this article by four short notes
from my diary.

October 26, 1883. — Found a nest with two eggs of the tico-
tico in short grass on a hillside. The eggs were in an advanced
condition, the bird being fully formed within.

I came across many birds’ nests with eggs till December.

December 3.- — Found a remarkable nest among reeds in a
swamp ; the nest was shaped like a large globular teapot, and was
beautifully thatched with twigs. The entrance was through the
neck — or spout, to continue the simile. By peeping down this
opening, I saw a softly lined bed, whereon were five whitish eggs.
The bird was on a neighbouring reed jealously watching my pro-
ceedings ; it was small, of a light reddish brown, with white throat
and chest, and a longish black beak.

December 4. — I saw quite an aviary on one small dead leafless
tree, near a swamp — eight canaries, three orioles (Cassicus persicus),
two scissor-tails ( Milvulus tyrannus), one John Clay ( Furnarius
rufus ), one brown and yellow woodpecker ( Celeus flavescens ), and
two small black birds with white breasts.

December 31. — At 6.15 a.m., saw a lovely small humming-bird,
about an inch and a half long, feeding at the purple flowers of a
species of lavender ; his colour was brown, with a brilliant white
band of feathers on his breast.

REPTILES.

365

REPTILIA.

This class of vertebrates is divided into nine orders, of which
four are represented by living forms and the others are extinct.

The four existing orders are crocodiles, lizards, snakes, and
tortoises.

Lizards ( Laceriilia ).

These are everywhere abundant. I have fed off some, and
have a few preserved in spirits, but none of sufficient interest to
record.

Snakes ( Ophidia ).

On July 7, 1883, I found at the hotel at Paraopeba Station a
book on medicine,* which appears to be a valuable work. From it
I extracted a few notes on carrapatos, and, finding a list of the
snakes of Brazil, I ascertained from the landlord the names of
those which occur in that district. As far as I could find out from
the local names they are as follows : Cobra cascavel (a rattle-
snake), boiquira, or boicininga; the latter an Indian name — as
usual, highly scientific — boi, or boya — a serpent, cining = a bell ;
it is the Crotalus horridus , Darwin. Giboia, boa constrictor, plen-
tiful in the forests near Pitanguy. Surucucu, Lachesis rhombeata.
Surucucu bico de jacca, Lachesis rnuta. Jararaca, Cophias jararaca.
Cobra coral, Elaps tnaregravii.

I have elsewhere referred to the cobra coral, and a snake
called jararacussu, which I occasionally found, as also the jara-
raca, but was fortunate enough to avoid the rattlesnake, although
some of our staff came across it. On the 20th of December, 1883,
I saw a long very thin snake ; its colour was greenish blue on the
upper side, with a bright yellow under side. The snake had just
seized a large frog, and I wondered how he would dispose of him.
I was attracted by hearing the frog’s terrified croak, and, dismount-
ing from my horse, drew near to watch the proceedings. The
snake fixed his cold glassy eye on me, as I approached within a

* “ Diccionario de medicina popular.” Pedro Luiz Napoleao Chernoviz.

Paris, 1878.

366

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

yard of him, but continued swallowing the frog, swelling out mar-
vellously as it gradually was disappearing. As the last foot of the
frog entered the snake’s mouth, I gave him a blow on the head,
when immediately the frog was disgorged, every bone in his body
broken, covered with slime, but still breathing and moving. After
killing the snake, I was also compelled to despatch the frog.

I regret much not having preserved any snakes, but the instinct
of self-preservation was, perhaps unfortunately, always uppermost ;
therefore, the reptiles were so disfigured and bruised they were of
no use as specimens.

M. Liais says of the cascavel * that it does not inhabit the
forests on the coasts, but especially the region of high campos, as
the plateau of Barbacena. “ Happily, this serpent of so active
a poison is very lazy, and does not attack. It only bites when
touched or trodden on. My learned friend, the Visconde de
Prados, had the opportunity, near Barbacena, of observing several
cases of bites by this snake, and furnished me with most interest-
ing information as to its poison. Death follows on the bite almost
instantaneously, preceded by blindness. The evil is generally
incurable, especially when the bite reaches parts much interlaced
by veins. Sometimes, however, the Crotalus has but little poison,
no doubt because it has recently bitten another animal, and in
that case, which is rare, a cure may be effected. The effect of
the poison is to dissolve the blood globules and, by increasing its
fluidity, to produce haemorrhage.” M. Liais mentions another
snake of the same genus, Crotalus urutu.

I heard occasionally of persons who were bitten, but was only
told of two cures. The first, and more general because easily
attainable, making the patient drunk ; the other, injection of per-
manganate of potassium. I always carried in my pocket a small
case containing a bottle of this liquid, and a syringe, etc., for
injection hypodermically; but am most thankful to say I never had
occasion to use it. I was once informed that a man was bitten
who wished for the injection ; the village apothecary had the
necessaries, but, never having tried the operation, refused to per-
form, and a messenger was sent to me on the matter. I was
unable to go, but showed the man my apparatus and explained
* “ Climats, Faune,” etc., p. 305.

REPTILES.

367

its use, urging him to operate without delay. I shifted camp the
next day, and heard no more.

Teetotalers will be shocked by the “ drunken process ; ” but
Captain Burton says,* “This is the secret of the cure ; the action
of the heart is restored, the venom is expelled, and the brain
returns to its normal functions.”

M. Liais cites the case of other snakes whose bite coagulates
the blood. Such is the sorocotinga ( Trigonocephalus brasiliensis),
allied to the Trigonocephalus rhumbeatus ( Lachcesis rhumbeata,
Lacepede). He states that this is the only Brazilian snake which
attacks man.

In the case of the jararacussu ( Trigonocephalus atrox ), the bite
often produces gangrene.

M. Liais states that f the other venomous snakes of Brazil
belong to smaller sized genera than the preceding, mostly less for-
midable than the Crotalus and Trigonocephalus , and that ammonia
counteracts the effects of the bites of many of them.

Tortoises ( Chelonia ).

On December 24, 1883, a wonderful beast was described to
me, and his portrait, a veritable marvel of antediluvian chelonians,
was drawn. I was told that the animal abounded in the marshes,
and that its bite was more deadly than that of a snake — no recovery
possible. One of these awe-inspiring creatures was brought to
me next day, a poor little harmless tortoise some six inches across
the body, with a remarkably long neck, which it tucked sideways
under its shell when looked at or touched. The natives were much
frightened at my handling it.

Horned Toad {Amphibia).

The only species of amphibia of which I preserved a specimen
is the handsome and brightly coloured yellow and brown horned
toad, Ceratophrys granosa — a remarkable instance of protective
colouring, as it is impossible to distinguish it a foot or two off,
without touching it, when resting on the fallen dead leaves of the
forest.

* “The Highlands of Brazil,” vol. ii. p. 183.
t “ Climats, Faune,” etc., p. 307.

368

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

SHELLS ( Mollusca ).

List of shells collected in a short ramble by the Bay of Bota-
fogo, Rio de Janeiro.

I am indebted to the kindness of J. Cosmo Melvill, Esq.
F.L.S., for naming the specimens.

The classification is from Paetel’s “ Conchylien Sammlung,”
1883 ; from H. and A. Adam’s “ Manual of Mollusca,” 1858; and
from G. P. Woodward’s “Manual of the Mollusca,” 1880.

Class— GASTEROPODA.
Order — Prosobranchiata, M. Edw.

Family — Muricid^e.

Murex, Linn.

Salleanus,* A. Ad.
sp.*

Triton, Lain.

vestitus, Lam.

Fam. — BucciNrom.

Purpura, Lam.

biserialis, Blaine.
deltoides (?),* Linn.

Fam. — Naticid^e.

Natica, Lam.

dubia, Rtihy.
ruficollis, Reeve.

Fam. — Cerithiad^e.

Cerithium, Brug.

semi-ferrugineum, Lam.
striatissimum, Sowb.

Fam. — Calyptr^im:.

Crepidula, Lam.
aculeata, Gmel.
hystrix, Brod. ( = aculeata /3).
plana, Linn.

Fam.— Turbinid,®.

Omphalius, Phil.
brasilianus, Mke.

Fam. — Fissurellid^.

Fissurella.

sP-*

Fam. — Patellid^;.

Patelloida, Quay.

subrugosa, D' Orb.

[Order — Pulmonifera.

Fam. — Helicid^:.

Bulimus, Scop.

oblongus, Mill. ( = hsemastoma, Amt.).

This shell is very common everywhere in Minas Geraes, but I
never found it with the mollusc inside. Mr. H. W. Bates says
that “ the land molluscs are the only animals which aestivate ; they
* Much worn.

MOLLUSCS AND INSECTS.

369

are found in clusters ( Bulimi and Helices ), concealed in hollow
trees, the mouths of their shells closed by a film of mucus.”]

Order — Opisthobranchiata.

Fam. — Bullidze.

Bulla, Lam.

maculosa, Alortzu.

Class — CONCHIFERA, Latn. — ACEPHALA.
Section — Asiphonida.

Fam. — Arcade.

Area, Linn. ( = Bysso-arca).

sp.

Area, Linn. ( = Scaph-arca).
brasiliana, Lam.

Fam. — Cardiad/E.

Cardium, Littn.

two sp. (broken).

Fam. — Lucinid/e.

Lucina, Brug.
divaricata, L
fibula, Reeve.

Fam. — Veneridze.

Caryatis.

sp. allied to laeta, Linn.
Anaitis.

cypria, Sowb.

INSECTS.

Order— Lepidoptera.

Division I. — Rhopalocera.

List of Butterflies collected by H. C. Dent in Brazil.

All the insects were taken in the province of Minas Geraes,
except those marked *, which, in nearly every case, came from
the province of Rio de Janeiro.

The nomenclature is from specimens in the British Museum
and Hewitson Collections at the Natural History Museum, South
Kensington, London.

The classification is from Mr. W. F. Kirby’s “ Synonymic
Catalogue of Diurnal Lepidoptera, with Appendixes,” 1871-1877.

Fam. I. — Nymphalid.e, Swains.
Sub-fam. I. Danaince, Bates.
Danais, Latr.

Plexaure, Godt.

Erippus, Cram.

Xanthippus, Feld.

Lycorea, Doubl.

Atergatis, Doubl., Hew.
Dircenna, Doubl.

Dero, Hiibn.

Ceratinia, Hiibn.

Daeta, Boisd.

Eupompe, Hiibn.

2 B

370

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Mechanitis, Fabr.

Lysimnia, Fabr.
Polymnia, var., Hew. t
Ithomia, Hiibn.

Phono, Hiibn.

Erruca, Hew.

Melinsea, Hiibn.

Paraiya,* Reak.

Ethra, Godt.

Sub-fam. II. Satyrina, Bates.
Pierella, Westw.

Nereis,* Dru.

Euptychia, Hiibn.

Periphas, Bntl.

Electra, Butl.
angularis, Butl.
marmorata, Butl.
ochracea, Butl.

Atalanta, Butl.

Eous, Butl.

Vesper, Butl.

Phares, Butl.

Necys, Godt.

Quantius, Godt.
sp.

Taygetis, Hiibn.

Xantippe, Butl.
Andromeda,* Cram.

Sub-fam. IV. Morphinee, Butl.
Morpho, Fabr.

Anaxibia,* Esp.

Laertes, Dru.

Menelaus, Linn.
Achilles, Linn.
achillaena, Hiibn.

Sub-fam. V. Brassolince, Bates.
Brassolis, Fabr.

Astyra, Godt.
Opsiphanes, Westw.

Opsiphanes Syme,* Hiibn.

Batea, Hiibn.

Invirae, Hiibn.

Dynastor, Westw.

Darius,* Fabr.

Caligo, Hiibn.

Demosthenes,* Perry.
Amphimedon,* Feld.
Dasyopthalma, Westw.

Rusina, J Godt.

Creusa,* Hiibn.

Sub-fam. VI. Acraina , Bates.
Acraea, Fabr.

Thalia, § Linn.

Alalia, § Feld.
sp.

Sub-fam. VII. Heliconince , Bates.
Heliconius, Latr.

Eucrate,* Hiibn.

Apseudes,* Hiibn.

Besckii, || Men.

Satis,* Weym.

Eueides, Hiibu.

Dianasa, Hiibu.

Sub-fam. VIII. Nymphalina, Bates.
Colsenis, Hiibn.

Dido, Linn.

Phaerusa, Linn.

Phaerusa, var. If
Julia, Fabr.

Agraulis, Boisd.

Juno, Cram.
vanillae, Linn.

Atella, Doubl.

Claudia, Cram.

Phyciodes, Hiibn.

Liriope, Cram.

Claudina, Esch.

Mazaria, Feld.

f An unnamed var. in Hew. Coll.

J One specimen only in Brit. Mus. Coll. I have two.

§ Very abundant. || Very abundant near Entre Rios, Brumado.

1 Pale var., Brit. Mus. Coll.

LIST OF BUTTERFLIES.

37 1

Eresia, Boisd.

Langsdorfii, Godt.
Hypanartia, Hiibn.

Zabulina, Godt.
Pyrameis, Hiibn.

Myrinna,t Doubl.
brasiliensis, Moon.
Junonia, Hiibn.

Lavinia, Cram.

Anartia, Hiibn.

Jatrophoe, Linn.
Amalthea, Linn.
Eunica, Hiibn.

Margarita, Godt.
Myscelia, Doubl.

Orsis, Dru.

Epicalia, IVestw.

Numilia,* Cram.
Sabrina, \ Hew.
Eubagis, Boisd.

Agacles, Dalm.

Tithia, Hiibn.

Mylitta, Cram.
Callicore, Hiibn.

Eluina,§ Hew.
Candrena, Godt.
Catagramma, Boisd.
Hydaspes, Dru.
Hydarnis, Godt.

Sorana, Godt.

Gynecia, Doubl.

Dirce,* Linn.

Ageronia, Hiibn.

Feronia, Linn.
Ferentina, Godt.
Amphinome, Linn.
Arete, Doubl. and Hrw.
Didonis, Hiibn.

Biblis,* Fabr.

Marpesia, Hiibn.

Thetis, Fabr.

Victorina, Blanch.

Steneles,* Linn.

Heterochroa, Boisd.

Syma, Godt.

Gerona,|| Hew.
sp.f

Aganisthos, Boisd.

Orion, Fabr.

Acheronta, Fabr.* * § **

Prepona, Boisd.

Demophon,* Linn.

Smyrna, Hiibn.

Blomfieldia,* Fabr.

Hypna, Hiibn.

Clytemnestra, var. /3. Hiib-
neri,* Butl.

Paphia, Fabr.

Halice,* Godt.

Psammis,* Feld., var.
Siderone, Hiibn.

Rogerii, Godt.

Isodora,*ft Cram.

Fam. II. — Lemoniid^E, Kirby.
Sub-fam. II. Nemiobiince , Bates.
Eurybia, Hiibn.

Dardus, Fabr.

Halimede, Hiibn.

Mesosemia, Hiibn.

Eumene, Cram.
sp.

Sub-fam. IV. Lemoniina, Kirby.
Panara, IVestw.

Thisbe,* Fabr.

Lymnas, Blanch.

Unxia,* Hew.

Lycisca, Hew.

t Closely allied to P. Cardui.

t Loc. Minas Geraes, two Brit. Mus. Coll., four Hew. Coll.

§ Described by Hewitson as one of the most beautiful of the genus.

II One specimen only in Hew. Coll.

IF May be diminutive form of Gerona.

** Megistanis Cadmus, Cram. (Brit. Mus.).

tt These two insects have marvellous protective colouring, under side
exactly similar to dry leaf.

372

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Diorhina, Mar.

Butes,* Linn.

Emesis, Fabr.

fastidiosa, Men.

Calydna, VYestw.

castanea, Pritho.

Charis, Hiibn.

Theodora, Feld.

Avius, Cram.

Cadytis, Hew.

Cseneus, Linn.

Perone, Doubl. and Hew
sp.

Apodemia, Feld.

Epulus, Cram.

Echenais, Hiibn.

densemaculata, Heiv
Nymphidium, Fabr.

Calyce, Feld.
azanoides, Butl.

Lamis, Cratn.

Stalachtys, Hiibn.

Phlegia, Cram.
phlegethetiza, var.
Susanna, Fabr.

Fam. III. — Lyc^nid^e, Steph
Cupido, Schrank.

Thius, Hiibn.

Catalina (?) , Fabr.

Cassius, Hew.
two species undetermined.
Tmolus, Feld.

two species undetermined.
Thecla, Fabr.

imperials,* Cram.
Hemon, Cram.

Marsyas, Linn.

Phaleros, Linn.

Palegon, Cram.

Melibseus, Fabr.
Melibceus, var.

Tarania, Hew.

Thecla Herodotus, Fabr.
sp.

Fam. IV. — Papilionidze, Leach
Sub-fam. I. Pierince , Swains.
Euterpe, Swains.

Tereas, Godt.

Hesperocharis, Feld.

anguitia, Godt.

Dismorphia, Hiibn.

Methymna,* Godt.

Melia,* Godt.

Melite,* Linn.

Thermesia, Godt.

Critomedia,* Htibit.

Psamathe, Fabr.

Nehemia, Boisd.

Cyra, Doubl.

Leucidia, Doubl.

Elvina, Godt.

Eurema, Hiibn. ( = Terias,.SzmzAr.).
xanthochlora, Koll.

Deva, Doubl.

Neda, Godt.

Palmyra, Poey (allied to).
Lydia, Feld.

Elathea,f Cram.

Platsea, Feld.

Mycale, Feld.

Rhodia (?), Feld.

Albula, var. a Sinoe, Godt.
About sixteen species or varie-
ties undetermined.
Daptonoura, Butl.
limnoria, Godt.

Ilaire, Godt.
sp.

Perrhybris, Hiibn.

Iphigenia, Godt.

Pyrrha, Fabr.

Catopsilia, Hiibn. (= Callidryas,
Boisd.).

Eubule, Linn.

t This sp. and its allies very abundant in valley of Rio Brumado, near Entre
Rios, alt. about three thousand feet.

LIST OF BUTTERFLIES.

373

Catopsilia Leachiana, Godt.
Philea, Linn.

Argante, Fabr.

Cipris, Fabr.
neocypris, Hiibn.

Trite, Linn.

Statira, Cram.
Gonepteryx, Leach.
Clorinde, Godt.

Sub-fam. II. Papilionina, Suains.
Papilio, Linn.

Polydamas, Linn.
Harrisianus,* Swains.
Lysithous, Hiibn.

Asius, Fabr.

Cixius, Gray.

Nephalion, Godt.

TEneides (?), Esp.
Zacynthus,* Fabr.
Dardanus,* Fabr.

Agavus,* Dru.

Proneus, Hiibn.

Bunichus, Hiibn.

Ascanius, * t Cram.
Ascanius, var.* %
Perrhebus,* Boisd.

Grayi, Boisd.

Evander, Godt.

Androgeos, Cram.
Lycophron, Hiibn.

Mentor,* Boisd.
Torquatinus, Esp.
Torquatus,* Cram.

Thoas,* Linn.

Deileon,* Feld.

Bellerophon, Dalm.
Protesilaus, Linn.

Fam. V. — Hesperid^e, Leach.
Thymele, Fabr.

Simplicius, Stole.

Thymele Eurycles, Latr.
undulatus, Hew.
Catillus, Cram.
Proteus, Linn.
Exadeus, Cram.
Aunus, Fabr.
Telegonus, Hiibn.

fulgerator,* Walch.
Naxos, Hew.
Anaphus, Cram.
Spathelepia, Butl.

Evelinda, Butl.
Pyrrhopyge, Hiibn.
Phidias, Linn.
Acastus, Cram.
Xanthippe, Latr.
versicolor, Latr.
Erycides, Hiibn.

Palemon, Cram.
Carystus, Hiibn.

Sinon, Cram.
Corydon, Fabr.
Pamphila, Fabr.

Epictetus, Fabr.
TEpitus, Hiibn.
umbrata (?), Esch.
sp., Hew. Coll.
Phlebodes, Butl. (?)

two species.

Pyrgus, Hiibn.

Omrina, Butl.
Syrichtus,§ Fabr.
Leucochitonea, Wallengr.
Arsalte, Linn.
sp.

Butleria, Kirby.

Caicus? Hew.
Achlyodes, Hiibn.
Sebaldus, Fabr.
Hadina, Butl.

Begga, Prittw.
obscurus(?), Hiibn.
sp.

t No in Brit. Mus. Coll., only in Hew. Coll,
t Tawny var. not in Brit. Mus. Coll, or Hew. Coll.
§ Very abundant.

374

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Antigonus, Butl. (?)
Erosus, Hiibn.
Phagesia, Heiv.
Helias, Butl. (?)

phalsenoides, Hiibn.

Helias palpalis, Latr.
Lacsena, Hew.
sp. Brit. Mus. Coll.
sp.

224 species determined.

35 ,, undetermined.

Total 259 species.

List of Butterflies described as from Minas Geraes, but which
are not in my collection.

Quoted from “ Catalogue of the Collection of Diurnal Lepi-
doptera, formed by the late W. C. Hewitson,” by W. F. Kirby,
1879 ; and from “ A Synonymic Catalogue of Diurnal Lepidoptera,
with Appendixes,” by W. F. Kirby, 1871-1877. Those marked *
are from the Hewitson Collection.

Fam. I. — Nymphalid,e, Swains.
Sub-fam. I. Danaince , Bates.

Ituna, Doubl.

Ilione,* Cram.

Ithomia, Doubl.

Jessica, Hew.

Acilla, Hew.

Melinaea, Hiibn.
fenella, Hew.

Sub-fam. II. Satyrince, Bates.
Pronophila, Hew.

Phanias,* Hew.

Eteona, Westw.

Tisiphone,* Boisd.
Lymanopoda, Westw.
sp.*

Tisiphone, Hiibn.

Hercyna,* Hiibn.

Euptychia, Hiibn.
vestigiata, Butl.
armilla, Butl.
peculiaris, Butl.
stelligera, Butl.
straminea,* Butl.

Pedaliodes, Butl.

Phanias, Hew.

Sub-fam. V. Brassolince, Bates.
Opsiphanes, Westw.
sp.*

Penetes, Westw.

Pamphanis, Doubl. and Hetv.
Caligo, Hiibn.

hemichroa, Butl.

Sub-fam. VIII. Nymphalince , Bates.
Phyciodes, Hiibn.

Orthia, Hew.

Cybdelis, Hew.

Tatila,* Herr. Sell tiff.
Epiphele, Doubl.

Merione,* Fabr.

Hvibneri,* Hew.

Catagramma, Boisd.

Clymena,* Cram.

Thamyras, Min.

Selima,f Guln.

Ageronia, Hiibn.

Fornax,* Hiibn.

t Cynosura,* Hew

LIST OF BUTTERFLIES.

375

Pyrrhogyra, Hiibn.

Ophni,t Butl.

Heterochroa, Boisd.

Abia,* Hew.

Apatura, Fa.br.

Lauren tia,# Godt.

Paphia, Fabr.

Ateo,* Druce.

Appias,* Hiibn.

Otrere,* Hiibn.

Fam. II. — Lemoniid.*, Kirby.
Sub-fam. II. Nemobiina, Bates.
Mesosemia, Hiibn.

Odia,* Godt.

Veneris,* Butl.

Sub-fam. IV. Lemoniince, Kirby.
Panara, Westw.

Aureizona, Butl.

Lymnas, Blanch.

Xenia, Hew.

Amarynthis, Hiibn.

Bocchoris,* Hew.
monogramma,* Bates.
Emesis, Fabr.

Fatimella,* Westw.
sp.*

Nymphidium, Fabr.
Erymanthus, Men.
Ethelinda, Hew.

Theope, Moore.

Tisiphone,* Westw.
pieridioides,* Feld.

Fam. III. — LyC/ENID/e, Stepk.
Thecla, Fabr.

Badeta, Hew.

Cydia,* Hew.

Argerona, Hew.

Scoteria, Hew.

Fam. IV. — Papilionidaj, Leach.
Sub-fam. I. Pieriiue, Szvains.
Euterpe, Swains.

Svvainsonii,* Gray.
Dismorphia, Hiibn.

acraeoides, Hew.

Terias, Swains.

two species unnamed,* N.S.

Fam. V. — Hesperid^e, Leach.
Thymele, Fabr.

Aminias, Hew.

Eudamus, Swains.

Apastus,* Cram.
Spathelepia, Butl.

Elaites, Hew.

Pyrrhopyge, Hiibn.

Charybdis,* Westw.
Amyclas,* Cram.

Antias,* Feld.

Socrates, Men.

Rhacia, Heau.

Myscelus, Hiibn.

variicolor, Men.

Proteides, Hiibn.

Phalestra, Hew.
Leucochitonea, Wallengr.
Leucola, Hew.

In Mr. Kirby’s catalogue of all known Rhopalocera, including
appendixes up to 1877, thirty-five species are marked as from
Minas Geraes ; and in the Hewitson Collection seventy-one named
and eight unnamed species from the same province, out of a total
of four or five thousand species. In Mr. Hewitson’s “ Exotic
Butterflies,” he figures nineteen species from Minas Geraes, while
the Amazons are represented by 232, Ecuador by 175, and New
Granada by 80 coloured drawings, besides many others from all
parts of the world.

t Tiphus,* Cram.

376

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Div. II. — Heterocera.

List of Moths collected by H. C. Dent in Brazil.

All the insects were taken in the province of Minas Geraes,
except those marked *, which were collected from the neighbour-
hood of Rio de Janeiro.

The nomenclature is from specimens in the British Museum
Collection. I have also referred to Lederer’s “ Wiener Entomo-
logisher Monatschrift,” vol. vii.

The classification is from “ List of the Lepidoptera Heterocera
in the Collection of the British Museum,” 1854, etc., by Francis
Walker, F.L.S. I have also examined most carefully MM.
Boisduval and Gudnee’s “ Histoire Naturelle des Insectes. Species
gendral des Lepidopteres Heterocdres,” Paris, 1852-1857. This
book, however, is incomplete. Dr. J. A. Boisduval issued, in 1874,
the volume on “ Sphingidse, Sesiidae, and Castniidae : ” but, owing
to his death, the parts on “ Zygaenidse ” and “Bombycites” have
never appeared.

Fam. I. — Sphingii.
Sub-fam. Sphingidx.
Eupyrrhoglossum.

Ceculus,* Cram.

Chserocampa, Dup.

tersa,* Drury.

Pachylia, Boisd.

ficus,* Linn.

Macrosila, Boisd.

Hannibal,* Cram.

Amphonyx.

Tapayusa,* Moore (N.S.).
Sphinx, Linn.

sp. allied to gordius (?).*

Fam. III. — CYDIMONII.
Ssematura, Dahn.

Diana,* Guen.

Urania, Latr.

brasiliensis,* Swains.

Fam. IV. — Castnii.

Castnia.

F ons-columbii,* Latr. and Godt.
Euphrosyne, var. (?) *

Ardalus,* Dalm.
Chremes,* Jones.

Fam. V. — Zygzenides.
Isanthrene.

incendiaria,* Hiibn.
Chalciope,* Hiibn.
Cosmosoma.

erubescens, Butl.
Eurota.

picta, var.

Charidea.

jucunda, Walk.

Saurita.

Cassandra,* L.inn.

Fam. VI. — Bombycites,
Sub-fam. Lithosiidce.

Scea.

auriflamma, Hiibn.
sp.

Eucyane.

melaxantha,* Hiibn.
Chrysauge.

chrysomelas, Walk.

LIST OF MOTHS.

377

Melanchroia.

Asteria, Hiibn.
tepens, Walk.

Deiopeia.

ornatrix, Linn.
pura, Butl.

Eudule.

invaria, Walk.
Phseochlaena.

tendinosa, Hiibn.

Sub-fam. Arctiidce.

Idalus.

Erythronotus, Herr. Sch.
Parades.

tricolor (?).

Halesidota.

strigulosa, Walk.
bipunctata, Walk.
two species.

Phaegoptera.

breviuscula, Walk.
Claphe.

sp.

Massicyta.

fusca, Walk.

Sub-fam. Liparida.

Penora.

diaphana, Cram.

Sub-fam. Saturniida.

Attacus.

sp.

Automeris.

illustris,* Walk.
melanops,* Walk.
convergens,* Walk.
cruenta, Walk.
Hyperchiria.

sp., Brit. Mas.

Dirphia.

sp.

Arsenura.

xanthopus, Walk.

Phricodia.

ursina, Walk.
sp.

Eacles.

Laocoon, Cram.

Sub-fam. Bombycida.

Megalopyge.

undulosa.

sp.

Gasina.

sp.

Macromphalia.

sp.

Adelocephala.

jucunda,* Walk.

Colla.

glaucescens,* Walk.
Trilocha.
sp.

Olceclostera.

sp.

Leptosphetta (?).

sp.

Sub-fam. Cossidce.

Langsdorfia.

Franckii, Hiibn.

Sub-fam. Hepialidce.

Phassus.

sp.*

sp. N. S.

Fam. VII. — Noctuites, Walk.
Sub-fam. Leucatiida , Gn.
Leucania, Ochs.

rivorum (?), Gn.

three species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Hadenidce.

Dysodia, Feld.
sp.

Sub-fam. Episemidce.

Perigea, Gn.

subaurea,f Gn.

t Plentiful in December and January.

378

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Sub-fam. AToctuidtz, Boisd.

Agrotis, Ochs.

three species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Bolinidce, Gn.

Bolina, Dup.

fasciolaris, Walk.
sp.

Sub-fam. Hypocalidce.

Hypocala, Gn.

Andremona, Gn.

Sub-fam. Ophideridce.

Ophideres, Boisd.
scabellum, Gn.

Sub-fam. Erebidce, Gn.

Letis, Hiibn.

Alauda, Gn.

Thysania, Dalm.

Agrippina,* t Gn.

Erebus, Latr.

Odora, Drury.

Sub-fam. Poaphilida, Gn.

Phurys, Gn.

helvina, Gn.

lineolaris, Gn.

two species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Remigid/z, Gn.

Remigia, Gn.

subsignata (?), Walk.

Fam. VIII. — PSEUDODELTOID^E, Gn.
Sub-fam. Thermesidcz.

Capnodes, Gn.
turtur, Feld.

Fam. IX. — Deltoidxtes, Latr.
Sub-fam. Platydidce, Gtt.

Geroda, Walk.
sp.

Hypena, Treit.
pilosalis, Gn.

Sub-fam. Herminidq, Duponch.

Bocana, Walk.

pharusalis, Walk.
sp.

Palthis, Hiibn.

hammatifera, Hiibn.
two species undetermined.

Fam. X. — Pyralites, Gn.

Sub-fam. Pyralida, Gn.

Pyralis, Linn.
sp.

Sub-fam. Asopidce , Gn.

Samea, Gn.

ecclesialis, Gn.
castellialis, Gn.

Agathodes, Gn.
designalis, Gn.

Leucinodes, Gn.
elegantalis, Gn.

Sub-fam. Margarodidce , Gn.

Glyphodes, Gn.

sybillalis, Walk.

Sub-fam. Botydcz , Gn.

Botys, Latr.

scillalis, Walk.
ostraealis, Gn.
helcitalis. Walk.
amplalis, Gn.
dryalis, Walk.
illutalis, Gn.
dorysalis, Walk.
two species undetermined.

Pionea, Gn.

scripturalis, Gn.

Fam. XI. — Geometrites, J Newm.

Sub-fam. Enno7nida, Gn.

Gynopteryx, Gn.

calbisaria, Walk.
rhombaria, Gn.
sp.

t The largest known moth, twelve inches across the wings.
X Phalenites, Gn.

THE THEORY OF EVOLUTION.

379

Eurymene, Dup.
sp.

Azellina, Gn.

crocallaria, Gn.

Synemia, Gn.
sp.

Cannagara, Walk.
sp.

Sub-fam. Urapterigida, Gn.

Dysdsemonia, Hiibn.
Boreas,* f Hiibn.

Sub-fam. Boarmida, Guen.

Boarmia, Treits.

illaudata, Walk.

Tephrosia, Boisd.

sp.

Cerotricha, Gn.
licornaria, Gn.

Sub-fam. Acidalidce , Gn.

Acidalia, Dup.

five species undetermined.

Arcobara, Walk.
microniata, var.

Sub-fam. Macaridie, Guen.

Macaria, Steph.
enotata,J Gn.

Sub-fam. Zerenidce , Guln.

Panthera, Hiibn.

pardalaria, Hiibn.

Sub-fam. Larentidee, Guen.

Scordylia, Gu(n.

conduplicaria, Gn.

Scotosia, Steph.
sp.

Pterocypha, Herr. Sch.
sp.

Sub-fam. Hedylidce, Guln.

Venodes, Gn.

napiaria, Gn.

undetermined.

Sub-fam. Geometrida, Gn.
Geometra, Linn.
sp.

Also about 19 species of Noctuge, Tortrices, etc., genera

83 species determined.

47 species undetermined.

19 species, genera undetermined.

149 Total number of species collected.

The Theory of Evolution.

Mr. W. C. Hewitson § refers to a paper by Mr. Roland
Trimen, || wherein, speaking of the wonderful metamorphoses of a
species of Papilio, the latter says, “Entomologists, no less than
naturalists generally, appeared content with a child-like wonder
at this and kindred facts, and let them pass as things inscrutable
until Mr. Darwin gave us a rational explanation of these pheno-
mena.” Mr. Hewitson remarks, “ I must say, and I hope that

t Represented by sketch only in Brit. Mus. Coll, (placed among Satur-
niidce ) ; but it is certainly a Geometer, and presents similarities to the Enno-
midce and Boarmidez. Is allied to genus Chorodna from Hindostan ; resembles
Semiothisa, Feld.

X Very closely approaches the English M. notata.

§ “ Exotic Butterflies,” vol. iv. || “Trans. Linn. Soc.”

380

A YEAR N BRAZIL.

I may do so without giving offence to any one, that I prefer the
child-like attitude of former naturalists to the childish guesses of
those of the Darwinian school. Mr. Trimen, if I understand him
rightly, gives this (may I call it a dream ?) as a supposition only.
Mr. Bates, in his address as President of the Entomological
Society, speaks of it as an established fact.”

I have constantly endeavoured to oppose the theory of evolu-
tion which is now so widely accepted, and for this reason — that
while there are some who, believing in revelation, consider evolu-
tion to be one of the natural laws ordained by the Creator, there
are others who uphold the theory in order to throw back the idea
of creation to an immeasurable distance, and thus, even if they
do not go so far as disbelieving in a Supreme Being, prepare the
way for the denial of a personal God Who in any way influences
the present order of Nature, and of Whom, therefore, we are
individually independent. This destroys all the foundations of
personal religion.

There is a God. He has given us two Books. He reveals
Himself to the spiritual part of our nature in His Word, and to
our bodily and intellectual capacities in His Works — in Nature.
The two revelations coming from one source must agree.

There is, however, nowadays an infinite number of shades of
opinion on these subjects, and there is also a conflict between
science and religion, which is most deplorable, especially as it has,
I fear, driven many into unbelief, or at least into honest doubt ;
and while it is very easy to explain the origin of the evil, it is more
difficult to correct it.

Whereinsoever scientific men have attempted to disprove cer-
tain spiritual truths or doctrines, such as the efficacy of prayer,
the possibility of miracles, etc., they have dealt with things out-
side their province. Mathematics, physics, biology, do not afford
an explanation of the spiritual world. The finite mind cannot
comprehend the Infinite, but it may apprehend it by accepting
revealed truth.

On the other hand, whereinsoever ecclesiastical dogmatism
has decreed certain explanations of phenomena or conditions of
the natural world, which explanations have been proved to be
contrary to fact by scientific discoveries ; therein such dogmas are

THE THEORY OF EVOLUTION.

3»i

manifestly erroneous, and are the results of human interpretations
of the text of Scripture ; which writings were inspired, not to teach
man what he might find out for himself, not to instruct in natural
science, but to reveal how the creature may approach the Creator.

In each case, therefore, the apologists of party have argued
from the known to the unknown, and the result has been a con-
fusion of ideas — generally, if not invariably, the result of a warped
or bigoted intellect.

It is, however, only so far as we receive God’s revealed truth
that we can really appreciate the wonders of the natural world.

Unity in design, variety in carrying out that design, is evident
throughout the whole of organic and inorganic nature.

It is not e-volution, but re-volution. All revolves in a circle :
the solar system, among the ten thousands of others, coursing
rapidly through space ; the earth, with its marvellous duplex
motion, at once revolving on its axis (which has not only the
movement which produces the seasons, but a far more complex
one — the precession of the equinoxes), and also revolving round
the sun, to all of which we are absolutely insensible; organic
life, in our world, the germ, growth, reproduction, decay. The
theory of evolution as applied to these phenomena is far more
inconceivable than that which theology presents. As touching
organic life, I may quote a sentence I came across some years
ago : “ Supposing the cycle of life to be a spiral instead of a
circle, it may ascend or descend, expand or contract ; but this does
not connect it with other similar spirals, the separate origin of
which is to be separately accounted for.”

It is a fundamental axiom of evolutionists that organisms have
gone on improving in complexity and form. The inspired record
of creation states the fact, which geological scientists have only
recently proved, of the successive introduction of higher forms,
concluding with man. But the original families continue to-day
more or less in the same conditions as when first introduced.
There has been multiplication of genera, of species ; also infinite
degradation and degeneration ; but no evolution in the real sense
of a lower producing a higher type.

It is surprising to me that thinking men, scientific workers,
who refuse to accept anything unless it be actually proven, should

382

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

dogmatize as they do about evolution. I grant that the theory
is enticing, but I absolutely deny that, even by the latest dis-
coveries, they have any grounds for stating that the theory is
proven. Therefore, it is remarkable that while they demand faith
from their followers in theories which are, at least, unsatisfactory —
though they throw the main weight of this odium on the imper-
fection of the geological record — they should deny to their oppo-
nents the consolation of faith in things which are unseen and are
eternal.

Is it evolution or degeneration ? Evolutionists leave all to
Nature, and, by demanding countless ages for Nature to work, they
can throw dust in the eyes of their disciples, and ignore the
unnumbered missing links necessary to substantiate their theory
by simply referring to the imperfections of the geological record,
on which alone they trust.

Degeneration demands merely the recognition of a law which
can be seen working in our midst, starting with, at least, the same
premises of leaving all to Nature.

During the historic period — a term too short for evolutionists
to attend to — all the improvements in animals or plants have been
owing to cultivation ; the improved species, when left to them-
selves, rapidly returning to the original type form.

Man alone has within him a power for which no evolutionists
can account, and for which only revelation can give a satisfactory
reason — a power which enables him to go forward ; while at the
same time he has always within him the elements of degeneration,
which, if not overcome, too often lower him to the condition of a
mere animal, even if they do not degrade him below the brute
beast whose sole thoughts are of to-day.

Life is too short, its duties are too momentous, for us to spend
our few days in speculation. One thing is evident — man has a
body, and is a spirit which will live for ever. Revelation tells
him how to prepare for that future life.

Meanwhile there are thousands who, knowing, believing in,
and loving this grand truth, can afford a few hours occasionally,
in the ever-increasing struggle for existence, to devote to the study
of nature. If they approach it with the feelings of the psalmist —
“ Lord, how manifold are Thy works ! in wisdom Thou hast made

THE THEORY OF EVOLUTION.

38)

them all ” — to them the study is not only of the deepest interest
in itself, but, by increasing their knowledge and appreciation of
the wonderfully intricate works of the great Creator, it assures them
that if He can so carefully arrange the complicated adjustments
which are necessary for the well-being of the whole organic world,
and can watch over all the smallest organisms that He has created,
so much the more they, who are formed in His image, after His
likeness, are His special care. Thus, amid the thousand ills they
suffer, they may, through Nature, be again led up to Nature’s God,
and acknowledge that He, the Omniscient, the Omnipresent, the
Omnipotent, “hath done all things well.”

Dr. J. C. Shairp * says, “ The ground of all religion, that
which makes it possible, is the relation in which the human soul
stands to God. This relation is the root one, and determines
what a man really is. As A Kempis says, 1 What thou art in the
sight of God that thou truly art.’ The practical recognition of
this relation as the deepest, most vital, most permanent one, as
that one which embraces and regulates all others — this is religion.
And each man is religious just in proportion as he does practically'
so recognize this bond, which binds him to his Maker.” f

* “Culture and Religion in some of their Relations,” pp. 14, 15.

f Senhor Arthur Vianna de Lima, son of H. E. the Baron de Iauru,
Brazilian Minister at Berlin, has just (December, 1885) published a work
entitled, “ Expose sommaire des theories transformistes de Lamarck, Darwin, et
Haeckel.” The Morning Fost, in a lengthy telegram from its correspondent in
Vienna, dated December 7, concludes thus : “ M. Lima’s book is destined to
create a sensation in literary and scientific circles, and will powerfully contri-
bute to throw ridicule on a modern school of philosophers, who have done very
little towards the perfection of man and the progress of science. ”

It is much to be regretted that the Morning Post , a distinctly religious
paper, should have inserted such unqualified praise of a book which is evidently
written by an avowed Atheist. I feel compelled, therefore, to give one or two
extracts, which will at once show the tendency of the work.

After most violent vituperation against the credibility of Holy Scripture,
and a blasphemous allusion to our blessed Lord, “ one of the sons of Mary”
(p. 275), the author proceeds (p. 276) : “ The constant observation of nature
leads to this necessary conclusion, and the only true one — the eternity of matter
in motion.” He considers he has then settled the matter, and sees no difficulty
in the illogical statement that follows (p. 278) : if we allow “ Creation, it is
necessary to suppose that it is the work of an Almighty workman ( artisan
tout puissant ), we must then ask, ‘ Who, then, was the father of God ? ’ As to
admitting that the Creator Himself had no beginning, that He existed uncreate

3^4

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Protective Colouring and Mimicry.

I should like to have been able to give a lengthy note on this
most interesting subject, but had very few opportunities of studying
even the cases which came under my notice.

Among the more conspicuous instances of protective colouring,
I may mention the genus Ageronia of butterflies. These invariably
rest, head downwards, with their wings fully expanded, and
flattened out on the lichen-covered trunks of the lofty palm trees.
These butterflies are plentiful at Rio de Janeiro, and, though a
large insect — some two inches across the wings — may yet be
passed unnoticed at the distance of a few yards, so closely do they
simulate the lichens.

The genus Siderone is also noteworthy. They always rest, with
wings folded over their bodies, on branchlets ; the markings and
colouring of the under side of the wings resembling exactly dry
brown or yellow leaves. The species S. Isidora (Cram.) has also two
clear spots on the upper wings, mimicking holes made by insects.

Referring to the mimicry of moths, Mr. Bates says,* “ Several
times I shot by mistake a humming-bird hawk-moth instead of a
bird.” “ Along the narrow paths in the forests an immense
number of clear-winged moths are found in the daytime, mostly
coloured like wasps, bees, ichneumon flies, and other hymeno-
pterous insects. Some species of the same family have opaque
wings, and wear the livery of different species of beetles ; these
hold their wings in repose, in a closed position over their bodies,
so that they look like the wing-cases of the beetles they decep-
tively imitate.” |

from all eternity, it would be a superfluous hypothesis. ... It is, then, much
more simple and much more natural to suppose that the universe has always
existed, that the unlimited material which composes it has always been in
motion, that it has ever eternally metamorphosed itself.” On reading this,
one thought is borne on the mind, that word “God shall send them strong
delusion, that they should believe a lie” (2 Thess. ii. n). Domine dirige nos
in viam veritatis.

This note, with the exception of the last sentence, was inserted in the
Morning Post, January 6, 1886.

* “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. i. pp. 181, 105.

t Mr. Thomas Belt, in “The Naturalist in Nicaragua,” gives instances of

PROTECTIVE COLOURING AND MIMICRY. 385

The axiom that the mimicking insect should be rarer than its
model is not always carried out, e.g. the Euterpe tereas (Pierinae),
which copies the Papilio nephalion. It is often common while the
latter is rare. The Colanis Julia (Nymphalinse) is far com-
moner than the deceptively similar but smaller Eueides aliphera
(Heliconinae). *

I must next refer to the sub-families Danai'nae and Heliconinae,
in which mimicry among various genera is the more remarkable, as
it is not, apparently, necessary for protective purposes. Dr. Fritz
Muller remarks f that “ the Ithomiae of the Amazons and their
allies, e.g. Mechanitis, as Bates observes, are imitated by so many
butterflies belonging to the most different families, that they may
certainly be correctly regarded as quite safe from the pursuit of
birds on account of their distastefulness. . . . Among the numer-
ous mimics are swarms of Acrcea thalia. The strong-smelling
Eueides Isabella and Heliconius eucrate have either individually or
together acquired a resemblance to Mechanitis lysimnia, which
insect to us is inodorous ; and amongst the numerous butterflies
which sufficiently resemble the three above-named species as to be
occasionally mistaken for them are species belonging to the
Ithomia group ( Melincea ), and to the true Danaides (Ly cored).
Thyridia and ltuna (Danai'dse) both belong to the class of cases in
which the two species which resemble one another appear to be
equally well protected by distastefulness. The former belongs to
the Ithomia group, the distastefulness of which has been referred
to ; and the latter to the Danaides, which play the same part as
models of imitating species in the Old World as the Ithomiae in
the New. They appear even after death to defy the ravages of time
and the attacks of mites, etc., by virtue of their distastefulness.”

Mr. Bates, in discussing this paper, said, “ The numerous cases
where species which are themselves apparently protected by their
offensive secretions, evidently mimic other species similarly pro-
tected, still form a great stumbling-block ; the excessive complexity

stinging ants being closely copied in form and movement by spiders, I Ic-
miptera and Coleoptera. I have an example in the genus Mutilla, which is
exactly imitated by the beetle Cyphtts Linntei, Sch.

* “ Proc. Ent. Soc.,” 1879, p. xx., etc.

t Ibid. , p. xxv., cl scq.

2 C

3§6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

of the question is evident to all who read Dr. Fritz Muller’s writings
on the subject. . . . The phenomena with regard to the Heli-
conidae are these : In tropical South America a numerous series of
gaily coloured butterflies and moths, of very different families,,
which occur in abundance in almost every locality a naturalist may
visit, are found to change their lines and markings together, as if
by the touch of an enchanter’s wand, at every few hundred miles,
the distance being shorter near the eastern slopes of the Andes
than nearer the Atlantic. So close is the accord of some half-
dozen species (of widely different genera) in each change, that he
[Mr. Bates] had seen them in large collections classed and named
respectively as one species.”

Ituna and Lycorea are connecting links between the Danaides
and the Ithomise.

Among the beetles ( Coleoptera ), I may mention the genus
Chlamys, of which Mr. Bates says,* it consists “ of small beetles
of a cubical shape and grotesque appearance, the upper surface of
their bodies being studded with tubercles. They look like any-
thing rather than insects ; some of them are an exact imitation of
the pellets of excreta of caterpillars on leaves ” ( e.g . Chlamys
Nattereri,\ Kollar ; | C. arcula, f Germ., etc.). “Others have a
deceptive likeness to small flower-buds, galls, and other vegetable
excrescences; while some large kinds are like fragments of metallic
ore” (e.g. Poropleura bacca,\ Kirby; P. monstrosa.% Oliv. ). “They
are very sluggish in their motions, and live in the most exposed
situations on the surfaces of leaves. Their curious shapes are,
therefore, no doubt so many disguises to protect them from the
keen eyes of insectivorous birds and lizards.

“ A nearly allied group, Lamprosomas ” (of which I have
several species), “ have perfectly smooth convex bodies ; these
glitter like precious stones on the foliage, and seem to be pro-
tected by the excessive hardness of their integuments. . . .

“ The Chlamydes are almost confined to the warmer parts of
America, and the species, although extremely numerous (about
three hundred are known in collections), are nearly all very rare.

“ It is worthy of note that mimicking insects are very generally

* “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. i. pp. 346, 347.
t Collected by me in Minas Geraes and % near Rio de Janeiro,

PROTECTIVE COLOURING AND MIMICRY. 387

of great scarcity ; that is, few examples of each species occur in
the places where they are found, and they constitute groups which
are remarkable for the strongly marked diversity and limited
ranges of their species.”

I took a beautiful weevil — Heilipus trachypterus (Germ.) — in
Minas, whose cream-coloured and black elytra, studded with
rugosities or tubercles, resemble the lichens of the tree trunks.
I also found some sand-beetles, which were protectively coloured.

Many other beetles, which would not be considered to be thus
guarded against their foes, are found to be so in their native
haunts, from resembling either a black dead leaf or a berry, etc.

I may also mention the grasshoppers. Some long and thin,
exactly simulating blades of grass ; others larger, some two inches
long by half an inch thick. One specimen that I have is Steirodon
citrifolium (Serv.). These are exactly similar to green leaves.

There is also the curious group of Phasmidse, or stick-insects.

For further details I would refer to Mr. A. R. Wallace’s book,
“ Tropical Nature ; ” also to a very interesting essay on “ Protective
Resemblances and Mimicry in Insects,” by Roland Trimen, F.R.S.,
in the February and March numbers of the Entomologist for 1885 ;
also a paper on “ The Habits of the Butterflies of the Amazon
Valley,” by A. R. Wallace.*

There is no doubt that insects are endowed with protective
colouring and mimicry to assist those which are edible in avoiding
their innumerable foes, while the gaudily coloured genera may
freely display themselves, as, being unpalatable, they have no need
of concealment.

The theory of these phenomena has been so frequently dis-
cussed that I must do no more than allude to the subject ; but
I am compelled to confess that I cannot agree with the hypothesis
of the gradual development of such protection ; not only because
I fail to comprehend how, during the necessarily lengthened period
when such an advantageous condition was being produced, the
individuals could derive any benefit, but also especially on
account of the dangerous deductions that have been drawn from
the theory of evolution.

It is unnecessary to detail all the pro and con arguments which
* f‘ Trans. Entom; Soc.,” 1853.

388

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

have been adduced almost ad nauseam ; but I earnestly recom-
mend all students to examine the theories of natural selection and
survival of the fittest, together with the extravagant demands of
their exponents, and to consider whether the opposing theory of
special creation may not, at least, be as tenable and workable.

How can men believe in, or even consider as possible, the
calmly propounded theories of evolutionists who have gone beyond
Darwin, and who present, as their well-weighed conclusions, the
statement that every existing organism has evolved by chance
from one primordial germ, and that the first particle of animated
matter was “ the fortuitous concourse of atoms ”?

At least, the yawning and insuperable gulfs which exist between
certain families cannot, to my mind, be bridged over by any
theory but the axiom of special creations, at certain periods,
however remote.

Mr. Darwin has said,* “ It is those who know little, and not
those who know much, who so positively assert that this or that
problem will never be solved by Nature.”

Therefore I plead again for moderation in the expression of
ideas, both from scientists and theologians. But I contend that,
at least, we must start with the fundamental doctrine of a Supreme
Being, Who is, by infinite condescension, in personal relation to
every one, and Who, while He makes wonderful revelations of His
power and omnipresence in the natural world — every movement
of which is the object of His care — reveals Himself in a far more
transcendent and miraculous manner to man, who is conformed to
His likeness, and “ in Him we live, and move, and have our being.”
I conclude with an extract from Professor P. J. van Beneden’s
work on “ Animal Parasites : —

“ All the mutual adaptations are pre-arranged, and, as far as
we are concerned, we cannot divest ourselves of the idea that the
earth has been prepared successively for plants, animals, and man.
When the Creator first elaborated matter, He had evidently that
being in view who was intended at some future day to raise his
thoughts to Him and do Him homage. . . . The artist who
tempers the clay from which to make his model has already
conceived in his mind the statue which he is about to produce.

* “ Descent of Man,” vol.'i. p. 3.

LIST OF BEETLES.

389

Thus it is with the Supreme Artist. His plan for all eternity is
present to His thought ; He will execute the work in one day, or
in a thousand ages. Time is nothing to Him ; the work is con-
ceived, it is created, and each of its parts is only the realization
of the creative thought and its pre-determined development in
time and space. ‘ The more we advance in the study of nature,’
says Oswald Heer,* 1 the more profound also is our conviction
that belief in an Almighty Creator and a Divine wisdom, Who
has created the heavens and the earth according to an eternal
and pre-conceived plan, can alone solve the enigmas of nature, as
well as those of human life. Let us still erect statues to men who
have been useful to their fellow-creatures, and have distinguished
themselves by their genius ; but let us not forget what we owe to
Him Who has placed marvels in each grain of sand, a world in
every drop of water.’”

List of Beetles ( Colcoptera )

collected by me in Brazil. All the insects were taken in the
province of Minas, except those marked *, which came from the
province of Rio de Janeiro and the neighbourhood.

The nomenclature is from specimens in the collection of the
British Museum, at the Natural History Museum, South Ken-
sington, London.

The classification is from the “ Histoire Naturelle des Insects,
Genera des Coleopteres ”... par M. Th. Lacordaire, Paris, 1854.
Twelve vols. I have also carefully examined the “ Catalogus
Coleopterorum,” by Dr. Gemminger and B. de Harold, Munich,
1869-1876.

Order. — COLEOPTERA.

Family — Cicindelid^e.
Sub-fam. Megacephalida , Lac.
Oxycheila, Dej.
tristis,* Fair.

Earn. — Carabid.e.
Sub-fam. Lebiidce, Lac.
Calleida, Dej.

decora (?) Fabr.

Cymindis, Latr.
sp.

Lebia, Latr.

bifasciata, Dej.

I

J Sub-fam. Scantida, Lac.
Scarites, Fabr.

rugicollis, Dej .
corvinus, Dej.

* “ Le Monde Primitif, 1876.

39°

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Sub-fam. Stomidcz.

Pelecium, Kirby.
cyanipes, Kirby.

Sub-fam. Cratoceridce.

Melanotus, Dej.

impressifrons, Dej.

Sub-fam. Harpalidce.

Harpalus, Latr.
fulgens, Dej.
amethystinus, Dej,

Sub-fam. Feronidce.

Marsyas, Putzeys.
seneus, Putz.

Fam. — Stapi-iilinin^e.
Sub-fam. Staphilinidce.
Staphilinus, Lhm.
sp.

Philonthus, Curtis.
amoenus, Guer.

Fam. — Histerin^e.
Sub-fam. Histerida.

Saprinus, Erichs.
sp.

Fam. — Nitidui. aires.
Sub-fam. Cychramidce.
Camptodes, Erichs.

two species undetermined.

Fam: — Trogositaires,
Sub-fam. Trogositidcz.

Trogosita, Oliv.

fulgidivittata, Blanch.

Sub-fam. Cucujidee.

Catogenus, Westw.
castaneus, Perty.

Fam. — Dermestid^e.
Dermestes, Linn.
sp.

Fam — Pectinicornes.
Sub-'fam. Passalida.

Passalus, Fabr.

furcilabris, Esch.
striatopunctatus, Perch.

Fam. — Lamellicornes.
Sub-fam. Copj-ida.

Gymnopleurus, Illig.

Mac Leayi (?), Reiche.
Canthon, Hofftmannsegg.
fasciatus, Mann.
virens, Sturm.
three species undetermined.
Coptorhina, Hope.

deplanatus, Reiche.
Chceridium (?), Serv.
sp.

Canthidium, Erichs.
decoratum, Perty.
atro-coeruleum (?), Reiche.
viridi-obscurum (?).

Copris, Geoff.
bos, Lac.
agenor, Dej.
bituberculata, King.

AEneas, Reiche.
crinicollis, Germ.
sp.

Pinotus, Erichs.

Eridanus, Oliv.

Phanaeus, Mac Leay.
principalis, Dup.
mimas, Fab.
floriger, Kirby.
splendidulus, Fab.

Kirbyi, Vigors.
Dendropemon, Perty.
sp.

Onthophagus, Latr.
sp.

Sub-fam. Aphodiidce.

Aphodius, Illig.
sp.

Atsenius (?), Harold.
sp.

LIST OF BEETLES.

39i

Sub-fam. Hybosoridce.

Coelodes, Westw.
gibbus, Perty.
castaneus.

Sub-fam. Geotrupidce.

Athyreus, Mac Leay.

parvulus, Reiche.

Bolboceras, Kirby.

striato-punctatus, Casteln.

Sub-fam. Trogidts.

Trox, Fabr.
sp.

Sub-fam. Melolonthidce .

Astaena, Erichs.
sp.

Athlia, Erichs.

-sp.

Macrodactylus, Latr.
suturalis. Manner h.

3,ffinis, Casteln.
angustatus, Beauv.
angustatus, var. lineatocollis,
Chevr.

pilivittatus, Reiche.
three species undetermined.
Isonychus, Manner h.

a^bicinctus, Mannerh.
sp.

Dicrania, Serv.
sp.

Ceraspis, Serv.

maculosa, Waterh.
two species undetermined.
Plectris, Serv.
sp.

Hadrocerus, Guirin.

castanei-pennis, Gncr.
Liogenys, Guer.
sp.

several other obscure species.

Sub-fam. Rutelida.

Antichira, Esch.

pantochloris, Blanch.
dichroa, Mann.

Antichira thoracica, Mann.

Cnemida (?), Kirby.
sp.

Rutela, Latr.
lineola, linn.

Pelidnota, Mac Leay.
prasina, Burnt.
sumptuosa, Vigors.
lucida, Burnt.
punctulata, Chev.

Plusiotis, Burnt.
auripes, Gray.

Bolax, Fischer.

flavolineatus, Mannerh.

Leucothyreus, Mac Leay.
mutabilis, Burnt.

Sub-fam. Dynastidce.

Cyclocephala, Latr.

sanguinicollis, Burnt.
melanocephala, Fabr.

Erioscelis, Burnt.
striata.

Stenocrates, Burnt.
humilis, Burnt.

Bothynus, Hope.

Ascanius, Kirby.
Deiphobus, Burnt.
sp.

Scaptophilus, Burin ,
coenobata, Dej.
sp.

Corynoscelis, Burnt.
glaucon, Perty.

Acerus, Burnt.
sp.

Megacerus, Hope.
sp.

Coelosis, Hope.
biloba, Linn.
bicornis, Fabr.
sylvanus, Fabr.

Heterogomphus, Bunn.

Thoas, Dej.

two species undetermined.

Enema, Hope.

infundibulum, Burnt.

Pan, Fabr.

392

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Strategus, Hope.

Antaeus, Fabr.

sp.

Megalosoma, Burnt.

Typhon,* Oliv.

Agaocephala, Serv.

cornigera, Mannerh.

Phileurus, Latr.
didymus, Linn.
two species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Cetonichz.

Cotinis, Burnt.

mutabilis, G. and P.

Gymnetis, Mac Leay.
undulata, Vigors.
reticulata, Kirby.
albiventris, G. and P.
pantherina, Burnt .
hieroglyphica, Vigors.

Euphoria, Burm.
lurida, Fabr.

Fam. — Buprestid^e, Marseul.

Sub-fam. Chalcophoridce.

Euchroma, Solier.
gigantea, Linn.

Psiloptera, Solier.
attenuata, Fabr.
inconstabilis, Perty.
dives, Germ.

Sub-fam . Buprestidce genuince .

Conognatha, Esch.
princeps, Gory.
pretiosissima, Chev.

Geralius, Harold.
mucorius, Klug.

Agrilus, Steph.

tuberculatus, Klug.
several species undetermined.

Fam. — Elaterid/e.

Sub-fam. Chalcolepidiidce.

Chalcolepidius, Eschs.
zonatus, Eschs.

Semiotus, Eschs.
ligneus,* Linn.

Sub-fam. Elateridcc genuince.

Cyathodera, Blanch.
longicomis, Blanch.

Monocrepidius, Eschs.
stigmatus, Cand.
three species undetermined.

Fam. — Malacodermes, Kiesenw.

Sub-fam. Lycida.

Calopteron, Guerin.
sp.

Blessenus,

Lacordairei, Kirsch.

Sub-fam. Lampyridce.

Lucidota, Casteln.
lampyris.
sp.

Photinus, Cast.
sp.

Aspidosoma, Cast.
pallidum, Oliv.

Lampyris (?).
sp.

Sub-fam. Telephoridtz.

Chauliognathus, Hentz.
sp.

Telephorus, Schdff.
axillaris, Fisch.
three species undetermined.

Pyrophorus,

noctilucus, Lbm.
ocellatus, Germ.
candelarius, Germ.
sp.

Fam. — Bostrychid/e.

Bostrychus, Geoff.
equalis, IVaterh.
inequalis, Dej.
three species undetermined.

Fam. — Tenebrionim:, Kratz.

Sub-fam. Epitragidce.

Epitragus, Latr.
fuscus, Latr.
sp.

LIST OF BEETLES.

393

Sub-fam. Zopheridce.

Nosoderma.

two species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Tenebrionidce Genuince.
Nyctobates, Guer.
maxima, Germ.

■ Zophobas, Blanch.

laticollis, Reiche.
tridentata.

two species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Cnodalonida.

Camaria, Serv.
elongata, Dej.
sp. (Brit. Mus.),

Sub-fam. Helopidce.

Sphaerotus, Kirby.
curvipes, Kirby.

Sub-fam. Strongiliida.

Dicyrtus, Lac.

binodosus, Lac.
Poecilesthus.
sp.

Stenochia, Leconte.

two species undetermined.

Fam. — Cistelid^e.
Allecuia, Fab.

patruilis, St.

Cistela, Fab.
sp.

Prostenus, Latr.

violaceipennis, Dej.
sp.

Fam. — Nilionimj.
Nilio, Latr.

two species undetermined.

Fam. — Melandryid.e, Muls.
Orchesia, Latr.
sp.

Fam.— LagriiD/E.
Statira, Serv.
sp.

Fam. — MELOiDiE.
Sub-fam. Cantharidce, Lee.

Lytta, Fabr.

punctata, Germ.

four species undetermined.

Fam. — Curculionid/e.
Sub-fam. Brachyderida.
Naupactus, Schonherr.
vittatus Mannerh.
rivulosus, Fabr.
scintillans, Bohem.
bellus, Bohem.
sp., Dupont.

two species undetermined.
Cyphus, Germ.

Gibber,* Pall.
argillaceus, S.
nigropunctatus,* Dej.
Germari,* Sck.
augustus,* Illig.
Hancocki,* Kirby.
gloriandus, S.

Platyomus, Schonh.
tuberosus,* J.
niveus, Fabr.
two species undetermined.
Eustales, Germ.

adamantinus, Germ.
Thurnbergi, Da/m.
ambitiosus, Bohem.

Sub-fam. Otiorhynchidce.
Hyphantus, Germ.
sp.

Pyctoderes (?), Schonh.
sp.

Sub-fam. Leptopsidce.

Entyus, Schonh.

auricinctus, Germ.
Lordops, Schonh.

Gyllenhalli, Dalm.
Hypsonotus, Germ.

Faldermanni, Sahib.
Rhigus, Germ.

irroratus, Bohem.

394

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Entimus, Schott.

splendidus,* Fabr.
imperialis,* Forster.
nobilis,* Oliv.

Sub-fam. Molytida.

Anchomus, Schbnh.
sp.

Sub-fam. Cleonidce.

Lixus, Fabr.

obliquatus, Deyr.
bicaudatus, Dej.
sp.

Sub-fam. Hylobiidce.

Heilipus, Germ.

maculosus, Bohem.
Freyreissii, Bohem.
trachypterus, Germ.
naevulus, Mannerh.
fallax, Bohem.
strator (?), Bohem.

Sub-fam. Rliinomaceridce.

Rhynchites, Herbst.
sp.

Sub-fam. Cholidce.

Dionychus, Gertn.

parallelogrammus, Germ.

Sub-fam. Cryptorhyncliidce.

Collabismus, Schonh.
clitellse, Bohem.

Cryptorhynchus, Illig.
sp.

several species undetermined.

Sub-fam. Zygopidce.

Cratosomus, Schbnh.

lentiginosus (?), Germ.
flavofasciatus, Guer.

Sub-fam. Baridiidce.

Diorysomerus, Schbnh.
auritus, Bohem.
altus, Germ.

Diorysomerus bicolor, Chet).
Pradieri, var.

Barycerus, Schon.
collaris, Gylh.

Baridius, Schon.

nretallescens, Bohem.
two species undetermined.

Centrinus, Schon.
sp.

Cylindrocerus, Schon.
azureus, Bohem.

Sub-fam. Calandridce.

Rhyncophorus, Herbst.
Palmarum, Linn.

Sphenophorus, Schon.
crenatus, Sell .
two species undetermined,

Fam. — Longicornes.

Sub-fam. Prionidce.

Parandra, Lair.

mandibularis, Perty.

Ctenoscelis, Serv.

acanthopus, Germ.

Navosoma, Blanch.
triste, Blanch.

Sub-fam. Cerambycida.

Achryson, Serv.

signatipenne, Dej.

two species undetermined.

Hammaticherus, Dej.

Batus, Linn.
sp.

Criodion, Serv.

corvinum, Germ „
sp.

Xestia, Serv.

confusa, Dej.

Chlorida, Serv.
festiva, Linn.
costata, Serv.

Eburia, Serv.

didyma, Oliv.
sp.

Elaphidion (?), Serv.

two species undetermined.

LIST OF BEETLES.

395

Sphserion, Serv.
sp.

Mallocera, Serv.
sp.

Ibidion, Serv.

bivulneratum, Thoms.

sp.

Compsocerus, Serv.
jucundus, Dej.

Stenygra, Serv.

conspicua, Perty.

Lophonocerus, Serv.

hirticornis, Gyllh. vai\, Brit.

Mus.

Dorcacerus, Latr.
auricomus, Germ.
auricomus var.

Trachyderes, Dalm.
succinctus, Linn.

Solieri (?), Dej.
lineolatus, var.

Megaderus, Serv.
stigma, Linn.

Sub-fam. Lamiid/r.

Pteroplius, Serv.
nodifer, Serv.

Oncoderes, Serv.
basalis.

Acrocinus, Illig.

longimanus,* Linn.

Steirastoma, Serv.

depressum, Linn.
lacerta,* Cast.

Acanthoderes.

five species undetermined.

Three Longicorns, genera and
species undetermined.

Fam. — Phytophaga.

Sub-fam. Crioceridce.

Lema, Fabr.

fasciata, Germ.
quadricolor, Lac.

Sub-fam. Megalopida.

Agathomerus, Lac.
sellatus, Germ.

Sub-fam. Clytrida.

Megalostomis, Lac.
gigas, Lac.
obesa, Lac.
grand is, Fbrsb.

Euryscopa, Lac.

terrebellum, Lac.

Tellena, Lac.

varians, Lac.

Pnesthes, Lac.

instabilis, Lac.

Dachrys, Lac.
cruciata, Lac.

Stereoma, Lac.
concolor, Lac.
angularis, var.
sp.

Sub-fam. Cryptocephalidce , Stiff.

Scholochrus, Suffrian.
prcetextatus, Suff.

Metallactus, Suff.
decumanus, Suff.

Sub-fam. Chlamidtz , Lac.

Chlamys, Knoch.

Nattereri, Kollar.
flaveola, Dej.
arcula (?), Germ.

Poropleura, Lac.

monstrosa,* Oliv.
bacca,* Kby.

Sub-fam. Lamprosomidce , Lac.

Lamprosoma, Kby.
chamoeleon, Lac.
coeruleum, Lac.
smaragdinum, Lac.
lepidum, Lac.

Sub-fam. Fumolpid/z.

Metaxyonycha, Marshall.
suturalis, Dej.

Colaspis, Fabr.
trivialis, Boh.
prasina, Dej.
crenata, Fabr.
assimilis, Dej.

396

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Colaspis smaragdina, St.
cupripennis, Dej.
violacea, Dej.

About ten undetermined sp.

Chalcophana, Chev.
aurata, Oliv.
viridipennis, Germ.
ruficrus, Ger7n.
sp.

Cychrtea, Baly.
cerasina, Pery.
livida, Dej.
sp.

Eumolpus, Weber.
nitidus, Fabr.
ignitus, Fabr.

Typophorus, Erickson.
sanguinicollis, Dej.

Endocephalus, Chapnis.
bigatus, Germ.
io-maculatus, Germ.
sex-lineatus, Chev.

Colaspoldes, Cast.
cyanella, Dej.
blanda, Dej.

Sub-fam. Chrysomelidce,

Phoedon, Latr.
pertinax, Stal.

Calligrapha, Ericks.
polyspila, Germ.

Zygogramma, Chev.
fulvocincta, Stal.
rivulosa, Stal.

Deuterocampta, Erichs.
mutabilis, Stal.

Doryphora, III.

reticulata, Stal.
aurantiaco-maculata, Blanch.
cincta, Germ.

Fairmairei, Stal.
sp.

Strichosa (?), Chev.
sp.

Sub-fam. Galerucidce.

Cacoscelis, Chev.
famelica, Clark.

Cacoscelis Feldneri, III.
sp.

Disonycha, Chev.
lineata, Dej.
sp.

Omophoita, Chev.
sex-guttata, III.
argus, Chev.
sex-notata, Dej.
transversa, Germ.
angulo-notata, C/k.
submaculata, Clk.
episcopalis, III.
quatuorfasciata, Chev.
dicipiens, Clk.

CEdionychus, Latr.

5-punctatus, Chev.
opimus. Germ.
circumcinctus, Dej.
humeralis, III.
pallidipennis, Clk.
cruciger, Clk.
libenturus, Germ.
areatus, Germ.
quadrifasciatus, Reiche.
tricruciatus, Germ.
sp.

Sub-fam. Hispidce.

Uroplata, Baly.

three species undetermined.

Alurnus, Fabr.

nigripes, Guer.

Sub-fam. Cassididce.

Calyptocephala, Boh.
nigricomis, Germ.

Desmonota, Hope.
variolosa, Fabr.
cariosa, Boh.

Canistra, Erichs.

rubiginosa, Guer.

Batonota, Hope.

monoceras, Germ.
illudens, Bohem.

Coptocycla, Boh.
elatior, Klug.
two sp. undetermined.

NOTES ON BEETLES.

397

Mesomphalia, Hope.
conspersa, Germ.
subreticulata, Boh.
contubernalis, Boh.
sp.

Pcecilaspis, Hope.
sp.

Omoplata, Hope.
aulica, Dej.

Omoplata dichroa, Germ.
generosa, Boh.
sp.

Selenis, Hope.

spirifex, Linn.

Fam. — Coccinellid/e.
Several undetermined species.

271 species determined.
131 species undetermined.

Total 402 species, besides twenty or thirty obscure species.

Notes on a few of the above Coleoptera.

It is extremely difficult, among many interesting groups, to
select a few for special notice ; but I may mention the fireflies
( Lampyridce and Tclephoridtz), and the genus Lytta ( Cantha -
ridce), which are used medicinally. “ The genus Cyphus,
peculiar to South America, is one of the finest of the family ; some
of the species, e.g. Hancocki, are the largest and most magnificent
of known Curculionidae.” *

“ Four splendid species constitute the genus Entimus ; they are
imperialism Fors., splendidus, Fabr., nobilis, Oliv., from Brazil, and
granulatus, Linn., from Cayenne. They have been known for a
long time, and are more or less common in collections. With the
exception of splendidus , which is adorned by patches — partly
confluent, of a brilliant coppery green, all are uniformly covered
with scales of a beautiful golden green. They are peculiar to
South America, and are generally found together in more or less
numerous bands. I have several times seen, in Brazil, mimosas
loaded with specimens of imperialis , so that their branches bent
under the weight” f

The beautiful little metallic blue beetle, Compsocerus jucundus,
Dej., is worth mentioning, as it has curious black hairy tufts in the
middle of its delicate long antennae. Mr. Bates J refers to another
Longicorn, Coremia hirtipes , which has a tuft of hair on its hind
legs, and remarks, “ It suggests curious reflections when we see
an ornament like the feather of a grenadier’s cap situated on one
* Lac. vi. 1 15. f Ibid., 283. t Vol. i. p. 209.

39§

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

part of the body in one species, and in a totally different part in
nearly allied ones. I tried in vain to discover the use of these
curious brush-like decorations.”

I have already referred to the genera Chlamys and Poropleura
in my article on Mimicry. I may add under that head the genus
Batonota, which, like some of the Homoptera, resemble thorns.

One other Brazilian beetle peculiar to Minas Geraes, to which
I must refer, is Hypocephalus armatus , Desm. The Rev. Hamlet
Clark,* in a letter from Constantia, Organ Mountains, in 1856,
writes : “ Only three examples, I believe, are known of H. armatus,
or Anglice, the mole-cricket beetle, from its quaint resemblance to
a mole-cricket. Well, I had some drawings of this creature made
from the figure Mr. Smith gave me, and distributed them among
some lively-looking slaves here, with the promise of three milreis
(about six or seven shillings) for every specimen they would bring
me. But these negroes have such exuberant imaginations ! Yes,
they all had seen it, had seen it often, knew it well, one had found
it under rotten wood, another had seen it frequently in his planta-
tion, a third had seen it in the path only the other day ; but all
this is only talk (three milreis would be a fortune to any of them),
and no Hypocephalus has ever made its appearance.” M.
Desmarest says,f “ It is a most anomalous beetle of large size, from
the province of the mines in the interior of Brazil, whose natural
relations have perplexed all subsequent entomologists.” Mr, J.
O. Westwood remarks, “ The insect exhibits, as M. Desmarest
well observes, a certain analogy with the mole-cricket in the large
size of the prothorax, thick hind legs, and short antennae.” The
length of Mr. Westwood’s specimen was three inches and half a
line long ; he believed that this one was then (1845) the only one
existing in metropolitan cabinets. M. Desmarest’s specimen was
two inches and one-fifth long ; while that described by Gistl was
two inches and one-twelfth long. Mr. Westwood mentions
that a specimen was bought for the Paris Museum of Natural
History at the price of 700 francs. Professor Burmeister con-
siders “ the curious animal Hypocephalus ” to be a Longicorn of

* “Letters Home,” p. 141. London, 1867.

t “ Guerin’s Magazin de Zoologie,” 1832, vol. i. p. 24.

X “Arcana Entomologica, ” vol. i. p. 35- London, 1845.

BEETLES AND HYMENOPTERA.

399

the sub-family Prionidse. My friend, Mr. Melvill, lately (1885)
bought a specimen from Mr. Janson, of Little Russell Street, who
wrote to him as follows : “ Two specimens were received from
Signor de Laenda, of Bahia, who obtained them from the interior :
one of these, the smaller, I sold to M. van de Poll, of Amsterdam,
in July last (1885) ; the other, now sent to you, I had intended
keeping, as, beyond a specimen in the British Museum and one
in Mr. Alexander Fry’s collection, there are, I believe, no others
in London, or probably in this country.” Mr. C. O. Waterhouse
of the British Museum has confirmed this statement.

The “ Catalogus Coleopterorum ” gives the names of over
73,000 species of beetles; the Curculionidae and Chrysomelidae
being each represented by over 10,000 species, the Geodephaga
and Lamellicornes by 8000 each, and Longicornes by 7500.

Notes on other Insects.

In the foregoing notes on insects, I have placed Lepidoptera
in the first place, because butterflies are certainly the best known
and the most favoured, on account of their displaying themselves
everywhere and their vivid colouring. In reality, the highest
order of insects is Hymenoptera,* then follow Coleoptera, which
are succeeded by Lepidoptera. I shall now refer to the Hymen-
optera, and then proceed with the other orders in their proper
sequence

Hymenoptera.

Bees and Wasps. — I have frequently alluded to the honey-bees
and wasps in my journal, and as I did not collect them (though
I have about a dozen species), I think it unnecessary to say more
than a word about them. On one occasion, in the spring (Sep-
tember 3, 1883), we came across a very neatly shaped wasps’ nest
in a tree, and, wishing to preserve it, I had the insects driven out,
carried off the nest, and placed it in another tree some hundred
yards off. On returning in the evening, we found that the wasps
had discovered their nest, and were again in possession. These

* The cerebral ganglia are more developed in ants than in any other insect.
Belt’s “ Nicaragua,” p. 28.

4oo

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

were stinging wasps, and their nest was made of grey paper-like
material.

Later in the season (November 5), a colony of very small
black bees made a nest of clay in our rancho, the entrance being
through a covered way built up the log wall. Dr. Gardner * gives
a lists of eighteen honey-bees, with their local names only. They
mostly belong to the genus Melipoma, Illig. Mr. Bates f also
refers at some length to bees and wasps.

Ants. — Among the many entomological specimens I collected
are some pretty red-yellow-and-black hairy ants. They are Mutilla
tristis, Klug. ; M. perspicillaris , Klug. ; M. spinosa , var. ; and
another. They are fierce and aggressive, and are exactly imitated
by a rhyncophorous beetle of the genus Cyphus (C. Linncei, Sch.).

I must devote a few more lines to an ant already referred to
at some length under the native names of cabegudo and tanajura.
The abnormally hard- and large-headed workers carried off my
provisions, and destroyed my flannel shirts, so I reciprocated by
frying and eating the plump and toothsome females. The workers
are the cabegudo, Atta cephalotes, Linn., A. sexdentata , Latr. ; the
large-bodied males and females are A. abdominalis , Smith. The
females are twice the size of the males, and over two inches
across the wings. The English name is umbrella, or carrying,
ant4 Mr. Bates calls them saiiba ant, and devotes ten pages to
an account of their habits ; he gives figures of the workers and
females. I have repeatedly seen armies of the workers ascend a
tree and strip off every leaf ; these fall to the ground, and are then
cut up into convenient sizes, and carried off by another legion to
the nest. I was told that the ants form underground mushroom-
beds, and feed their larvae with the fungi that grow on the decay-
ing leaves. The ants often struggle along with a piece of leaf a
dozen' times larger than themselves clasped in their mandibles,
and held erect and so firmly that one can lift the leaf from the
ground, and yet they cannot be persuaded to leave hold. It is
amusing to observe what appears like a long line of animated
leaves crossing a road or moving along some fallen tree-trunk

* “ Travels in Brazil,” p. 248.

f “ The Naturalist on the River Amazons,” vol. ii. p. 40.

J “ Insects Abroad,” p. 441, Rev. J. G. Wood.

ANTS AND TERMITES.

401

over a stream. On examination, you find two lines of ants — one
army going towards’the nest, each individual with its leafy burden ;
the other running along in the opposite direction much faster and
returning to the field of their labours. Whenever an ant dropped
his load on the way home, I never noticed him pick it up again ; he
invariably turned back and went for a fresh leaf. Thus, in some
places, such as a deep wheel-rut, where many ants dropped their
burdens in ascending its precipitous sides, there was quite a little
heap of leaf fragments. I found that my dog was fond of catching
and eating the lemon-scented workers. The nests abound every-
where in the campos, and present the spectacle of large heaps of
pellets of earth, sometimes many square yards in extent and a
couple of feet high. These mounds are formed of the earth
excavated from their subterranean galleries, each several pellet
having been moulded and carried up in the workers’ jaws. I have
often watched these energetic insects staggering up with their load
to the entrance of their gallery, then running to the edge of the
embankment, dropping their burden over the side and gaily
returning to their subterranean labour.

On November 28, 1883, I found a small nest of ants on the
branch of a shrub ; it was spherical in shape, about one inch and
a half in diameter, and composed of red micaceous earth.

Neuroptera.

Terinites.- — Of all disagreeable-looking insects, I think the
soft-bodied, semi-transparent, dirty whitey-grey termite workers are
at once the ugliest and the most repulsive. We, fortunately, never
suffered much from their depredations, although occasionally in
camp we discovered a band of them crossing the floor of our
rancho, and found their covered ways, built of a thin crust of
red earth up the side of the wall, constructed so as to reach
unobserved the object of their attacks ; but as we promptly de-
stroyed them and their galleries, I had no opportunity of watch-
ing them indoors. Their huge conical parti-coloured nests, which
are very abundant, form one of the principal features in the
scenery of the highland campos. The general colour is red, but
additions are often made in white or grey earth ; and as the
nest is frequently enlarged, at length the original hemispherical

2 D

402

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

or conical shape is lost under the numerous bosses which have
been thrown out in all directions. Professor Drummond has
published a very interesting article * on the “ Use of the Termite in
the Economy of Nature.” He argues that they perform in the
tropics a similar work to that which is carried out by the earth-
worm in the temperate zones.

Dermaptera or Orthoptera.

Mr. Francis Walker states, at the end of his catalogue, that the
name Dermaptera, given to these insects by De Geer, has the
right of priority ; they were afterwards called Orthoptera by
Olivier. Respecting their geographical distribution, he says they
generally are more limited to warm regions than are the other
orders of insects, which also more or less precede them in time
of yearly appearance. In regard to the way in which ramifi-
cations from the Dermaptera in tropical regions have converged
towards the poles, some tribes appear to have left their first
habitation entirely as the increasing heat and dryness deprived
them of circumstances essential to their existence, and some
seem to have increased in numbers and variety after their
migration. The advance to the north from the equatorial regions
may be included in four principal divisions : first, through China
to Japan ; second, from the East Indies along the Himalaya
and other mountain-ranges to West Asia and to Europe ;
third, from Central Africa to North Africa and Europe ; fourth,
from Equatorial America to North America. The regions on
the south of the equator from three principal divisions : first, that
of South America, where insect life is most abundant ; second,
Australia and the numerous neighbouring islands ; third, South
Africa, where the insects are least numerous. Mr. Brunner de
Wattenwyl, in his essay on the geographical distribution of the
Blattariae, has divided the globe into sixteen regions — nine of
these are north of the equator, two are south, five are on both
sides, of which South America towards the Atlantic is one. Mr.
Walker gives a list of the special genera of all the Dermaptera
found in each of these sixteen regions.

* Good Words, May, 1885.

COCKROACHES , LOCUSTS, AND GRASTIOPPERS. 403

Section I. Cockroaches ( Blatlarice ).

I collected some thirty species of Blattariae, including Peta-
sodes dominicana , Sauss. ; Tarraga guttiventris ; Proscratea conspersa,
Sauss. ; Brachycola vittata (?) ; Epilampra agathina , Sauss. ; E.
subconspersa, Clk. ; E. caliginosa, Clk. ; Pseudomops femoralis,
Clk. The names are taken from the specimens, and the autho-
rities from the “ Catalogue of the Specimens of Blattariae, in the
collection of the British Museum,” by Francis Walker, F.L.S.,
1868, from which book these notes are also extracted.

In a summary at the end of the volume, Mr. Walker says, “ In
this catalogue, 686 species of Blattariae are recorded, and there
are many yet unnamed. It is not easy to ascertain correctly their
geographical distribution. Some species pass from one region to
another, and multiply excessively in artificial circumstances. Other
species are of rare occurrence, and the continuance of them may
be partly insured by their seeming to be what they are not, or by
their mimicry of various kinds of Coleoptera and Phasmidae, and of
Myriapoda, and of Isopod Crustacea. . . . The fore wings are
remarkable on account of their various structure. . . . The groups
cannot be arranged according to their affinities in a line, or in a
circular series ; in other words, several different lines or arrange-
ments may equally well express the natural system.”

Section II. Locusts and Grasshoppers ( Saltatoria ).

I collected some twenty species, including, among the grass-
hoppers (Gryllidae), Gryllus capensis, Linn. ; and among the
locusts (Locustidse), Meroncidius varius , Bates ; Steirodon citn-
folium, Serv. ; Diplophyllus tnundus, Clk. ; Pterocliroza pidifolia ;
besides undetermined species of the following genera : Con-
cephalus ; Phylloptera, Serv. ; Cephaloscema , Serv. ; Mesops, Burm. ;
Minorissa, Macrolyristes (?), Caloptenus, Burm. ; and Stenobothrus ,
Fisch. The names are taken from the specimens and the
“ Catalogue of the Specimens of Dermaptera Saltatoria in the
Collection of the British Museum,” by Francis Walker, F.L.S.,
1868-71. That author states that the genus Pterochroza, with
the closely allied Cycloptera, “ excel all other Saltatoria in the

404

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

beauty of their wings.” They are large insects, with marvellous
mimicry of dry or green leaves. The Steirodon citrifolium ,
Serv., is another example of mimicry, as also the genus
Phylloptera.

The Phasmidse and Mantidae belong to this order.

Homoptera.

The following is the list of the insects of this order I collected -

Fam. — Membracina.

Membracis.

lunata, Fab.
c-album, Fairm.

Hoplophora.

porosa, Walk.

Fam. — ClCADELLINA.

4Ethalion.

albinervosum, Blanch.
Tomaspis.

nigricans, Amyot.

Monecphora.

radiata, Walk.
two sp. undetermined.
Sphenorhina.

marginata, Fabr.
liturata, St. Farg.
compressa, St. Farg.
four sp. undetermined.
Tettigonia.

two sp. undetermined.
Proconia.

! sp-

The specimens were named from the collection, and the
classification is taken from the “ List of the Specimens of Homop-
terous Insects in the Collection of the British Museum ” (four
vols., with supplement, London, 1850-58), by Francis Walker,
F.L.S.

The Cicadas are tree-feeders. Their native name is cigarros.
“ The males are remarkable for the loud shrill noise which they
produce by means of an apparatus called the drum, which is
placed in the under side of the thorax, and is covered with a

Family — Stridulantia.

Zammara.

tympanum, var. Am. and Serv.
Cycloc’nila.

honesta, Walk.

Fidicina.

picea, Walk.
mannifera, Faber.
opalina. Am.
maculipennis, Lap.

Cicada.

compacta, Walk.
triupsilon, Walk.
sp.

Fam. — Fulgorina.

Dyctiophora, Germ.

sp.

Phenax.

variegata, Germ.

Pterodictya.

ephemera, Burm. (Rio de J.)

CICADAS, AND HEMIPTERA.

405

horny plate that can mostly be seen from the upper surface of the
insect.” * They abound in the bushes and shrubs on the
campos, and their peculiar rasping note attracts attention all
the more, because it is only when the insect is at rest and in-
visible that the sound is produced. Mr. Bates says,f “ One large
kind, perched high on the trees around our little haven, set
up a most piercing chirp ; it began with the usual harsh jarring
tone of its tribe, but this gradually and rapidly became shriller,
until it ended in a long and loud note resembling the steam
whistle of a locomotive engine.” Mr. Bates speaks of another
kind near Ega, as “very handsome, having wings adorned with
patches of bright green and scarlet ” (probably Zammara tym-
panum). “ It was very common. . . . On approaching a tree
thus peopled, a number of little jets of a clear liquid would be
seen squirted from aloft. I have often received the well-directed
discharge full on my face ; but the liquid is harmless, having a
sweetish taste, and is ejected by the insect. . . . probably in self-
defence, or from fear.” |

Hemiptera Heteroptera.

I collected the following in Minas Geraes. The specimens
were named from the collection, and the classification is from the
“ Catalogue of the Specimens of Heteropterous Hemiptera in the
Collection of the British Museum,” by Francis Walker, F. L.S., in
eight parts, London, 1867-73.

Family. — Pachycorid^.
Pachycoris.

nitens, C.H. §

Fabricii, C.H.
sp.

Fam. — Asopim®.
Oplomus.
sp.

Fam. — PHL/EimE.
Chlorocoris.

complanatus, C.H.
Macropygium.
atrum, C.H.

Fam. — PentatomiD/E.
Loxa.

flavicollis, C.H.

* Figuier’s “ Insect World,” p. 732.
t Vol. ii. p. 142. t Vol. ii. p. 227.

§ C.H. refers to Dallas’s list of Hemiptera in the British Museum.

406

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Proxis.

victor, C.H.

Euchistus.

sp.

Fam. — Edessid,e.
Peromatus.

notatus, C.H.

Aceratodes.

cruentus, C.H.
three sp. undetermined.

Fam. — Spartocorida;.
Spartocera.

fusca, C.H.

Fam. — Nematopid.e.
Metapodius.

latipes, C.H.

Pachylis.

sp.

Fam. — Acanthocorid^e.
Camptischium.

spinosum, Serv.
Machtima.

crucigera, C.H.

Fam. — Largid/E.
Dysdercus

ruficollis, Stal.

Fam. — Pyrrhocoridaj.
Largus.

lineola, Stal.
rufipennis, l Burnt.
sp.

Fam. — PiratiDjE.
Pirates,
sp.

Fam. — Reduvida:.
Spiniger.

limbatus, Burm.
Conorhinus.
porrigens.

two sp. undetermined.

Fam. — Apiomerid.e.
Apiomerus.

elatus, Stal.

F am. — H ARPACTOR 1 D.E.
Saica.
sp.

Fam. — Galgulid.e.
Galgulus.
sp.

Mononyx.

raptorius, Fabr.

Arachnida.

Spiders. — The only curious spiders that I collected which are
worthy of note are two remarkable species of the genera Acro-
soma and Gasteracantha. In each instance the body is contained
in a perfectly hard shell. In the case of the Acrosoma it is
triangular and pyramidal, while in the Gasteracantha it is of the
form of a crab’s carapace. I also took several species of Mygale
of various sizes ; the largest about two inches in length of body,
seven inches across the legs, the entire body and legs being
covered with reddish-brown hair. Mr. Bates * refers to a similar
species, and thus describes its bird-slaying habits : “ I
* Vol. i. p. 161.

was

SPIDERS, AND PARASITIC TORMENTS.

407

attracted by a movement of the monster on a tree trunk ; it was
close beneath a deep crevice in the tree, across which was stretched
a dense white web. The lower part of the web was broken, and
two small birds (finches) were entangled in the pieces ; they were
about the size of the English siskin, and I judged the two to be
male and female. One of them was quite dead, the other lay under
the body of the spider, not quite dead, and was smeared with the
filthy liquor or saliva exuded by th'e monster. I drove away
the spider and took the birds, but the second one soon died. . . .
Some Mygales are of immense size. One day I saw the children
belonging to an Indian family who collected for me with one
of these monsters, secured by a cord round its waist, by which
they were leading it about the house as they would a dog.”

The Parasitic Torments of Brazil.

The carrapato,* or bush-tick, so often referred to is a de-
generate spider (Acaridse, Arachnida). The annoyance it caused
us far exceeded that from any other animal, or reptile, or insect,
that we came across. Chernoviz f names three species of this
tick : Ixodes ricinus, Latr. ; I. plumbeus, and I. reticulatus , Latr.
But I found more than three species ; the smallest are the size
of our harvest-bug, and the largest are about three-quarters of an
inch in diameter. Captain Burton $ says that “the insect was
called by the ancients Kporov and ricinus, on account of its resem-
blance to the ripe bean of the Palma Christi. § It is the vincucha
of Paraguay, the tique of French Guiana, and the ricinus of old
authors. This Acaride, seen under the glass, shows a head armed
with a trident of teeth, serrated inwards ; the two external blades
of the terebro when entering the flesh bend away, forming a
triangle, with the base outwards and downwards, and rendering
it difficult to remove the plague. The three pairs of short and
one of long legs are all provided with sharp and strongly hooked
claws. ... In most parts of Minas and Sao Paolo the nuisance

* “ Carra ” is an Indian word in frequent use ; thus, carapicho — a burr,
caramujo or caracol — a large snail ( Bulimus ).

+ “ Diccionario de medicina popular.” J Vol. i. p. 158.

§ Inversely in Brazil the seed of the castor-oil plant (mamona or ricino) is
termed “carrapato.’

4°8

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

is general ; it seems to be in the air ; every blade of grass has its
colony ; clusters of hundreds adhere to the twigs ; myriads are
found in the bush clumps. Lean and flat when growing on the
leaves, the tick catches man or beast brushing by, fattens rapidly,
and, at the end of a week’s good living, drops off plena cruoris."
Chernoviz states that “ Carrapatos lay an enormous number of
eggs, not on the bodies of the animals where they have lived,
but on the ground. The young which emerge from them climb
up the plants, holding on to the leaves, and wait until some
animal passes.” Mr. Bates mentions * that it occupied him a full
hour daily to pick them off after his diurnal ramble, and continues,
“ When they mount to the summits of slender blades of grass, or
the tips of leaves, they hold on by their fore legs only, the other
three pairs being stretched out so as to fasten on any animal
which comes in their way.” “ Horses and cattle f suffer greatly
from the Ixodes, and even die from exhaustion.” I have frequently
seen, under the manes of horses who have been out some days at
grass, a mass of some dozen or twenty huge ticks, each the size
of a broad bean. “ The traveller soon wears a belt of bites like
the ‘ shingles ’ of Lancashire. The tick attacks the most incon-
venient places, and the venomous irritating wound will bring on
a ricinian fever, like the pulicious fever of Russia. . . . The
excitement of day-travelling makes the nuisance comparatively
light ; but when lying down to sleep, the sufferer is persecuted by
the creeping and crawling of the small villain, and the heat of the
bed adds much to his tribulation.” All this is, alas ! too true.
“ The favourite habitat is the capoeira, or second growth ” (after
the virgin forest has been cut down), “ where the cattle graze. The
low shrubs . . . are also good breeding-grounds. Annual prairie
fires destroy millions, but the capoes, or bouquets de bois, act as
preserves, and the branches are incrusted with them.” I found
that they are almost exclusively confined to localities where
domestic animals graze. In one pasture there were such countless
myriads that my men termed it the Fazenda dos Carrapatos.

One comfort, at least, of the rainy season is that the tropical
deluges wash them off the shrubs, so that from October to April

* Vol. i. p. 291.

f “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 159.

THE PARASITIC TORMENTS OF BRAZIL. 4°9

one is free from them. I went out for a few days’ work in May,
returning each night to town. The wretches were then just
hatched, and as small as pins’ points. Every night some eighty or
a hundred were picked off before they had time to burrow and
disappear, for this minute kind ensconces himself entirely beneath
the skin. In the dry season I used to sponge myself twice daily
with diluted carbolic acid, and cover myself with Keating’s powder.
It proved rather beneficial, as I found after the day’s work that
although I was host to hundreds of them, they were generally still
roaming, and had not found a place to burrow in, or, at worst, were
not firmly fixed. My men advocated various cures — mercurial
ointment, cutting them in two with scissors (this is inadvisable, as
the head, being left in, festers), inserting a red-hot pin, washing
with cachaga and tobacco-water. Captain Burton mentions a
Frenchman who was painfully intoxicated after this last process.
The ciriema and many other birds are great destroyers of this
pest, and are never shot by the natives on that account.

Jiggcrs ■ — The jiggers are called by the natives “bichos do
pe,” or foot beasties. The word “ bicho ” is a very comprehensive
term in Brazil. When I showed the natives the portrait of
Barnum’s white elephant in the Graphic , they said, “ Oh, que
bicho ! ” (“ Oh, what a creature ! ”) Another, speaking of my
dog, said, “ O cachoro e o bicho mais amaroso que ha ” (“ The
dog is the most affectionate animal that exists ”).

The jigger is the Pulex irritans , or subintrans, or minimus , or
penetrans ( Aphaniptera , Kirby), known also as chigre, cheger,
chegre, chegve, chigo, chigoe, chigger, jigger, nigua (Span.), chica,
chique (Fr.), tungua, tumbyra, pique, and chigua. This wretch is too
well known to need any description. It is generally only taken
from old and dirty houses, and I never came across it until I had
my own hired house at Brumado; then I soon made its ac-
quaintance, but found that was due to going about in slippers
without socks. I had only five in my feet from January to June.
As they are generally supposed to burrow under the toe-nails, I
may mention the habitat of my little guests — the first on the right
big toe, second and third on right and left heel, and two under
the sole of my left foot. I extracted them all myself. I never
felt them, but found on examination a hard black speck. I then

4io

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

carefully cut the cuticle all round with a sharp knife, and dug out
the intruder, the wound always bleeding profusely, so that I in-
variably broke the skin of the sac ; I next scraped the circular
cavity well inside, to be sure there were no eggs left in the place.
I never felt any pain, either at the time or afterwards, and the
wound always healed up perfectly, without the application of
ammonia or anything but water.

Ber7ios. — Captain Burton was fortunate enough not to suffer
from these insects. They are, indeed, the worst of all torments.
He says, “ The cattle are painful spectacles, scarred and eaten by
the white grub of the local tzetze. It is called ‘berne.’ The
word is generally explained as a corruption of verne (worm), but I
believe it to be of Guarany origin. The worm is mentioned by
Azara, who believes that it penetrates the skin. Prince Max. (i. 29)
reasonably doubts this. Many tales are told of negroes losing
their lives in consequence of the grub being deposited in the nose
and other places ; if squeezed to death, and not extracted, it may,
of course, produce serious results. The usual treatment is by
mercurial ointment.” * My dog was so bad from their attacks
that I feared I should have to kill him ; but mercurial ointment
proved effectual. He was again attacked, and I had him washed
with tobacco-water, the result being that all the bernos were
killed, and came out gradually, after which he rapidly recovered
and put on flesh. In the case of animals, the bernos always raise
a large hard lump, so with them the worm may possibly not enter
beyond the skin ; but with those of our staff who suffered, it was
different. One of the staff extracted in all about thirty of the
maggots, three other men also suffered ; while a fifth had one
berno, which he tried to extract before it was ready, in so doing
he killed it, and leaving it in his arm it festered, and finally,
owing to ill-treatment by the natives, who put in a seton, he was
almost disabled. I also saw a baby of only three months old who
had two extracted from it. I suffered from one of these villains
under my left knee. At first I thought it was only a specially
inflamed carrapate bite, and as I was spotted with them like a
plum-pudding I forgot about it. However, it did not heal up, and
in about three weeks it became very painful ; then a small hole
* “ Highlands of Brazil,” vol. i. p. 36.

NOTES ON BOTANY.

411

appeared, which was continually discharging, the muscles became
hard, swelled, and painful, and I realized at length that it must
be a berno. I had heard from my friends the cruel practice of
the natives in applying a burning stick to the wound to kill the
worm, so I determined to keep silent about it ; and I did not care
to use mercurial ointment or tobacco-water, for fear that the
remedy might be worse than the disease. At length the pain
became unbearable at certain intervals, when I presume the crea-
ture was feeding. Probing the wound with a long darning-needle,
it penetrated over an inch before I felt the creature at the end
of his burrow. I squeezed the berno out alive, and it turned out
to be a very large maggot, three-quarters of an inch long and a
quarter of an inch in diameter. From the sufferings which that
solitary specimen caused me, I can understand how miserable my
poor dog must have been, as his back was a mass of sores. It
was pitiful to see him. When running about he would turn round
every minute with a whine to bite his wounds till they were raw.
He also suffered much from bichos do pe.

Notes on Botany.

As is well known, the flora of the high table-lands in Brazil
may be separated into two distinct divisions: 1. That of the
valleys and watersheds. 2. That of the campos.

Far more marked are these differences than any that exist in
our country between the plants of the valleys and mountains or
plateaux around. But I must confine myself to a few superficial
remarks. I had no opportunity of visiting the country beyond the
intricate system of watersheds of the Rios Para and Paraopeba,
except one ride — to within thirty miles of Pitanguy, where the
strata change considerably. The various divides of the watershed
are all about the same level, three thousand to three thousand
two hundred feet, with an isolated mass of considerable extent
(the Serra de Cortume). I have given sketches of this mass of hills
from two points : from Casa Grande looking eastwards, and from
the valley of the Rio Camapuao * looking southwards. This
serra may be about five thousand feet high. To the southward, the

Pronounced Camapuang.

412

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

hills are forest-clad, to the northward are the real watersheds —
expanses of rounded downs much broken up by canyons and
intersected by deep valleys. The campos are of two kinds :
“ campos abertos,” or open downs with short grass ; and “ caatin-
gas,” or grass dotted over with shrubs. In the bottom of all the
valleys, near the divides, are “ capoeiras,” or “ mato ” (second
growth of trees after the original forest has been burnt), and
“ mata virgem,” or virgin forest ; these sometimes creep up the
gorges to the edge of the downs. There are also “carrascos,”
which are growths of shrubs and small trees, amid which occa-
sionally rises a monarch of the forest. When the streams, after
passing through the forest-clad doughs, reach the widening valleys,
they generally have a belt of trees and shrubs growing along the
banks .; and as the valleys become broader, there is usually a con-
siderable extent of marsh or“brejo,” which is sometimes grass-
land, sometimes thicket. These brejos are always flooded in the
rainy season. The clearings are called “ roQas.” The two sketches
may, perhaps, give an idea of the scenery ; in each case the back-
ground is formed of rounded hills covered with virgin forest.
The view from Casa Grande shows various clearings, which were
(when the sketch was made in July, 1883) bare, but in the follow-
ing December were covered with maize ten feet high, castor-oil
plants, cotton, sugar-cane, black beans, and gourds. The view from
Camapuao Valley shows a wide marsh, with a belt of trees and
shrubs about a mile off, through which flows the river ; rising
behind this is a bare rounded down (campo), in which a barran-
cado or canyon has been formed. Whatever fault may be found
from an artistic point of view, these sketches are at least true
to nature ; while I am sorry to say that many of the illustrations
I have seen in Gardner’s Travels and some other books are very
imaginative, and can scarcely be recognized.

With regard to my botanical specimens, I regret that I can
only give a very brief account, as the majority of the plants
collected were destroyed by the extreme damp of the rainy
season. The ceaseless downpours — sometimes for a week to-
gether— during the rainy season are sufficiently depressing, but a
watertight tent is more or less proof against them. When, how-
ever, the sun does appear, and the whole atmosphere is full of a

NOTES ON BOTANY.

4i3

warm steam, which enters the recesses of every box, and every
article in the tent is heavy with condensed vapour, it is exceed-
ingly difficult to protect one’s specimens. The rainy season is
the time for collecting, but the great care and frequent changes of
drying-papers necessary require an amount of time which I could
not afford ; the result was that some one hundred and fifty species
alone reached England, many of which could not be identified.

On the dry downs, or campos abertos,” at a level of about
three thousand feet, I found Byrsonima, Cambessedesia, and other
dwarf Melastomacese, gentians, cactuses, Eriocaulon, crotons,
Labiate, Verbenaceae, Iris, Polygala, Convolvulaceae, purple, blue,
pink, and white, Erythroxylon, Baccharis, Vernonia, and other
Compositae, Myrtaceae — including the Gabiroba gooseberry (Psldium
cinereian , Mart.), which is often as plentiful as the bilberry, or
whortleberry, in England — Leguminosae, Solanaceae, etc. The
Solanaceae include, besides small species and shrubs, the large
tree Solatium lycocarpum. In some of the smaller species, the
leaves and stems are covered with long fine spines or thorns.

In the “ caatingas ” I gathered Erythroxylon, Styrax, Lythariae,
acacias, Vochysiae, bignonias, Convolvulaceae, Malpighiaceae,
Melastomaceae, etc. ; this latter family exists everywhere in Brazil,
except on the very dry northern hills. I also found, near Brumado,
a new ground-orchid ( Habetiaria ), which is described further on ;
another orchid I gathered is probably new, but is in very bad
condition.

In the “ capoeiras ” I met with bamboos, palms, ferns, tree-
ferns ; Cassia, Crotalaria, Inga, and other Leguminosae ; passion-
flowers, etc. Scarlet-flowered leguminous trees and creepers are
very numerous. The Inga, of various species, is very noticeable ;
it abounds in the belts of forest along the river banks, and forms
large bushes, with fine acacia-like leaves, the branches being
hidden beneath a dense mass of beautiful crimson or white feathery
flowers. There are also many species of lovely passion-flowers,
purple and white. The Composite are likewise exceedingly
plentiful ; many of them are shrubs, or small trees ten or fifteen
feet high, which are much frequented by butterflies, especially the
Acraea and Heliconius.

The forests defy description, but I may mention the Cecropia,

4H

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

Melastomacese, an infinite variety of Palms, Bromeliaceae, Myrta-
ceae 3 Inga, Acacia, and other Leguminosae 3 Euphorbiaceae, Malpi-
ghiaceae 3 Smilax, Vanilla, many orchids and other epiphytes 3
tangled masses of hanging lichens, gigantic llianas 3 bignonias,
and a multitude of ferns — Polypodium, Adiantum, Anemia, etc. —
and tree-ferns.

In the marshes I took Begoniae, Juncaceae, Cyperaceae, Com-
posite, Zinziberaceae, Amaryllideae, etc.

I append a list of the few plants I saved from the damp which
ruined my collection 3 they were named by the kindness of Messrs.
J. C. Melvill, M.A., F.L.S., James Britten, F.L.S., H. N. Ridley,
M.A., F.L.S., and William Carruthers, F.R.S. The classification is
from the “ Genera Plantarum,” by G. Bentham and Sir J. D. Hooker,
London, 1862-1883, and from the “Synopsis Filicum,” by Sir
W. J. Hooker and J. G. Baker, London, 1874.

All the plants named were collected in the valley of the Rio
Camapuao, a small tributary of the Rio Paraopeba, Minas Geraes,
or on the table-lands near the valley.

Ranunculace.e.
Anemone decapetala, L.

Violarle.

Sauvagesia erecta, II. B. K.

POLYGALE^E.
Polygala paniculata, L.

several other species.
Monnina sp.

Malvaceae.

Pavonia sp.

Hibiscus sp.

Abutilon sp.

Sida sp.

Tiliace^e.
Corchorus sp.

Line^e.

Erythroxylon sp.

Malpighiace,e.
Byrsonima sp.

LEGUMINOSiE.

Crotalaria anagyroides, H.B.K.
Desmodium, two sp.
Stylosanth.es sp.

Zornia diphylla, Pers.

Periandra coccinea, Mart.
Phaseolus sp.

Collaea speciosa, D. C.

Cassia, two sp.

Mimosa dolens, Veil.

Calliandra sp.

Inga semialata, Mart.

Inga sp.

4Eschynomene falcata, D. C.
Rhyncosia sp.

Indigofera sp.

Rosacea.

Rubus rosaefolius, L.

Myrtace m.
Psidium cinereum, Mart.
pyriferum (guava),
sp.

Myrcia, three sp.

LIST OF PLANTS.

4*5

Melastomace/e.
Cambessedesia ilicifolia, Tr.
Microlicia subsetosa, D. C.

Microlicia sp.

Acisanthera sp.

Desmoscelis sp.

Miconia sp.

Pleroma gracile, D. C..

Several other obscure species.

LyTHRARIE^E.

Diplusodon virgatus, Pohl.
Diplusodon sp.

SAMYDACE/E.

Casearia sp.

PaSSIELORI/E.

Passiflora, several species ; native
name “maracuja,” or “ herva da
paixao.”

Begoniace.e.

Begonia sp. ; native name “azedinha.”
Cacte^e.

Echinocacteae, several species.

Umbel lifers.

Eryngium sp.

RUBIACE,E.

Oldenlandra sp.

COMPOSIT/E.

Vernonia scorpio'ides, Pcrs.

Baccharis sp.

Campanulace^e.
Campanula sp.

Styrace^e.

Styrax punctatum, D. C.

Apocynace^e.

Macrosiphonia velame, Mull. Arg.

CONVOLVULACEAS.
Convolvulus, several species.

SOLANACE/E.

Solanum lycocarpum, St. H.
Cestrum sp.

Bignoniaceaj.
Jacaranda tomentosa, R. Br.

Acanthaceas.
Chamaeranthemum sp.

Verben ACE/E.
Lantana velutina, L.
Stachytarpheta sp.

Vitex sp.

Labiate.

Leonurus sibericus, Z.

Nyctagineae.
Mirabilis sp.

Euphorbiace/E.

Croton sp.

Manihot, several species.

Orchidea:.

Stenorhynchus orchioides, Rich.
Habenaria Melvillii, Ridley, N.S.

SCITAMINE/E.
Calathea bicolor.

Canna edulis.

Iride^e.

Sisyrinchium iridifolium, H.B.k'.
Mariana vel Cypella sp.
sp.

Amaryllidea:.
Hypoxis decumbens, L.

Liliacea:.

Smilax sp.

COMMELINACEAJ.
Commelina nudiflora, L.
Dichorisandra aulilitiana, Michan.
Tradescantia elongata, L.

Palmas.

Oreodoxa olerosa, Witld.

4i6

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

CYPERACE/E.

Anemia hirta, A. W.
Phyllitidis, A. W.
coriacea, Grisb.

Dichromena nervosa, Michx.
Fimbristilis communis, Kuntz.

Lygodium venustum, S. IV.

Filices (Ferns).

Polypodium Filicula, Klf.

Adiantum subcordatum, Sw.
trapeziforme, L.
hirtum, Klosch.
capillus-Veneris, L.

LyCOPODIACEjE.
Lycopodium carolinianum, /..

Musci (Mosses).
Neck era Lindigii, Hampe.

These plants are now all in the herbarium of Mr. J. C. Melvill.

In the above list it will be observed there is an orchid new to
science, which I gathered on the hillside near the town of Bru-
rnado, now called Cidade de Entre Rios. Mr. Ridley described
it as follows, in the Journal of Bota?iy for June, 1885, vol. xxiii.
p. 170

“ Habenaria Melvillii. , sp. n. — Tubera lanata clavata. Folio
duo, ovata obtusa patentia petiolata, 7-nervia ; lamina majoris
2-uncias longa, ij lata, petiolus vix uncialis. Scapus brevissimus
ij uncia longus. Flores duo magni. Sepala ovata obtusa, late-
ralia parum obliqua patentia. Petala bifida, lacinia antica erecta,
ligulata obtusa falcata, postica longior recta linearis multo angus-
tior, acuminata. Labellum trifidum, Hernias laterales lineares
acuminatas, media brevior, obtusa. Calcar Iongissimum 4-unciale,
pendulum rectum, apice paullo dilatato. Columna brevis lata.
Anthera haud apiculata, apices longse curvae.

“ Cidade de Entre Rios, Minas Geraes, Brazil, coll. H. C. Dent.

“ The British Museum Herbarium is indebted for this inte-
resting plant to Mr. J. Cosmo Melvill, whose name I have great
pleasure in associating with it. It is remarkable for the broadly
ovate-petiolate leaves, and the very short flower-stem bearing one
(or two) rather large violet and white flowers, and with a spur
more than twice the length of the stem. The dorsal sepal is five-
eighths of an inch long, the laterals a little longer. The petals
are bifid ; the upper lobe about the length of the dorsal sepals ;
the lateral lobe a little over an inch long, much narrower, and
tapering away to a fine point. The lip has a short narrow base,
ending in three narrow linear lobes ; the two outer ones nearly
an inch and a quarter long, tapering gradually to a point, the

NOTES ON PLANTS, VEGETABLES, AND FRUITS. 41 7

middle one broader, shorter, and blunt. The long upcurved
anther-processes are nearly three-eighths of an inch in length.”

Gardner * mentions, passing through Brumado, “ a long,
straggling village in a state of great decay.”

Notes on Plants, Vegetables, and Fruits referred to
on p. 134.

Tobacco. — “ The tobacco of Rio de Pomba, fifteen leagues
from Barbacena, and the Rio Novo won the medal at the Indus-
trial Exhibition of Rio de Janeiro ; that of Baependy, especially
the fumo crespo, is a dark, strong leaf, well fitted for making
' cavendish ’ or ‘ honey dew.’ The soil will be much improved
by compost, and the produce by being treated in Virginian style — -
delicately dried in closed barns with fires ” (Captain Burton). After
a time I took a great liking to the Pomba tobacco, and brought
home a good supply. My friends in general consider it superb.

Banatias. — There are at least six kinds : Banana ouro, Sao
Tome, and Prata, which are best eaten raw ; B. maga, da terra,
and velhaca, which are generally fried or boiled, not being very
sweet or juicy. The banana da terra is commonly known as
plantain. This tree often falls to the ground by the weight of its
own fruit. The banana tree is always cut down after the fruit is
picked, and grows up again the next year. Banana ouro is the
smallest, and velhaca the largest.

Sugar-cane. — Besides the ordinary powdery yellow sugar, there
is a product called rapadoura, which is abundantly used, It
consists of a hard brick-like brown uncrystallized sugar, from
which the molasses has not been extracted. Captain Burton says
it is only found in South America.

Cachaga, or caxaga, I have frequently referred to, and given
the different local names by which it is known. This spirit is
distilled from molasses, and is supposed to be pure ; but the
odour and taste are very disagreeable, though one gets accustomed
to it. The price is about 4 d. a pint. I found it useful and not
injurious, when taken in small quantities • while a glass of any of
the half-dozen Dutch spirits sold at Brumado invariably disagreed

* “ Travels in the Interior of Brazil,” p. 385. London, 1849.

2 E

4 1 8

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

with every one of us. I had no leisure to study the comparatively
nocuous effects of this or any other spirit on the natives ; but the
fact that those who are addicted to it soon come to an untimely
end may not be owing to any specially injurious properties of
cachaga, but simply to the fact that all spirituous liquors are harm-
ful, taken in excess, especially in tropical countries. It is useful
for mixing with water for washing purposes, thereby producing a
refreshing and stimulating effect, and for anointing insect bites.

Restilo, or ristiri , as the name implies, is a redistillation of
cachaga, though sometimes applied to the ordinary spirit. It has
no smell when in the colourless form, and is much stronger than
cachaga, and also dearer, but generally excellent. The good old
lady at Camapuao had some tolerable Restilo do Reino, of a fine
light-brown colour ; and some liquor of the same name, bought
at Brumado, was similar to good Jamaica rum. The price was
800 reis (is. \dl) per pint bottle.

Chillies, Pimentas. — There are many kinds, all excellent. Some
are very hot, others mild ; some are sweet and lemon-flavoured,
others aromatic. The Mineiros are very fond of them ; they are
a good stomachic.

Quince, Marmelo. — These are made into a jam, which is called
Marmelada.

Gooseberry, Gabiroba. — This is the Psidium cinereum (Mart.),
P. gabiroba , and others of this extensive genus. In the spring
(October), the campos are quite white with the lovely flower
of this very abundant bush, which grows to about one or two
feet high ; and about Christmas, the shrubs are weighed down
by the luscious golden fruit, which, in taste, size, and appearance,
resemble our gooseberry.

Guava, Psidium pyriferum. — This is an abundant wild fruit.
Unpalatable when raw, and with a peculiar pungent, disagreeable
smell. It is principally made into goiaba, or marmalade, when it
is eaten with cheese. This reminded me of the custom that
obtains in Lancashire and Yorkshire of eating apple pie or damson
tart with the same article.

Potato, Batata da Lidia. — Yields two crops a year.

Sweet Potato, Batata doce , Ipomoea batatas , L. — Yields four
crops a year.

NOTES ON PLANTS, VEGETABLES, AND FRUITS. 419

“Mandioc, Mandioca, or Maniva, Jatropha manihot, L. — Eu-
phorbiacese. A plant with wide-spreading branches, originally
from Africa, cultivated in India and in America, from the Straits
of Magellan to Florida. As food, it is to Brazil what wheat is to
Europeans and North Americans. The root is large, tuberous,
fleshy, white internally, and full of a white juice very acrid and
very poisonous. The leaves are alternate, divided in three, five,
or seven lanceolate lobes, deeply cut and pointed, rather sinuous
edges, dark green on the upper side and glaucous on the under
side. The male flowers are separated from the female, but both
exist on the same plant.

“The root of the mandioc is that part of the plant which is
most important. Some roots attain a very considerable size, and
weigh as much as fifteen kilos (thirty pounds). The root is almost
entirely composed of starch, with the addition of a poisonous white
juice. This poison, which is very subject to change, appears to
be cyanhydric acid, or a substance easily turned into that acid.
However, it is found easy to deprive the mandioc root of its acid
poisonous quality, either by the action of heat, or by repeated
washings. The root then becomes a healthy, as it is also a uni-
versal, food. It is used for the preparation of farinha de mandioca
(mandioc flour), one of the most valuable articles of diet in use
among the Brazilians. The following is the process employed for
the production of farinha (pronounced farinya)-. —

“ The root is well scraped with a knife, the paste is then reduced
by a vertical wheel, and next pressed to deprive it of the poisonous
juice. It is then roasted, which extracts the last remains of the
poisonous principle, and gives it that look of granulated white
flour which is seen at table. It is also called farinha de pao (wood
flour, or sawdust).

“ The water in which the paste of the mandioc has been washed
is left to deposit at the bottom of the vessels a white silt which
is very pure starch. This, when dried, is called tapioca, a very
delicate and nutritious food.

“ The juice of the root is a powerful poison. A small dose is
fatal to men and animals after producing vomiting and convulsions.
This poisonous principle of the mandioc is very volatile ; for if the
juice be exposed to the air, it loses its deleterious effects after

420

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

thirty-six hours. The same result occurs when the juice is boiled.
When distilled, it furnishes a most poisonous liquid ; a few drops
placed on the tongue of a dog are sufficient to kill him in ten
minutes.

“ The name manipuera is given to the liquid resulting from
squeezing the scraped root, which latter is placed in the tepiti (a
kind of basket or vessel made of taqua russu, or split and plaited
taqua.) Notwithstanding its being so poisonous, the juice is
employed for preparing tucupi — a sauce much used in Para,
Amazonas, and Maranhao. To prepare it, the liquid is boiled
with hot peppers and garlic, or else these ingredients are merely
macerated, and then exposed to the air and night dews.

“When the tuber is macerated and placed in water till it begins
to ferment, it loses its poisonous properties, and, after being washed
in several waters, it is used to make cakes.

“ The name mandioca is given to the root, and maniva generally
to the plant, of which there are many species.” *

Black beans, the feijoes (singular feijao ) to which I refer
repeatedly, is Phaseolns vulgaris. When stewed in toucinho (lard),
they form, with farinha, the staple food of the inhabitants. Another
favourite dish is the feijoada, a stew of meat and black beans,
which is also freely covered with farinha and made into a kind of
thick mess — most unpleasant to look at, but excellent. A feijoada
is one of the standing dishes at all the meals of his Majesty the
Emperor. When at Rio de Janeiro, I was told of a great dinner
given at Paris on the occasion of a national fete by the Bra-
zilian Minister to the Brazilian residents in that city. The dinner
was to be au JBresilien. Dish after dish made its appearance, but
no feijoada. The guests were annoyed, and the host sent for the

* “ Diccionario de Botanica Brasileira, ” de Joaquim de Almeida Pinto.

Mr. H. W. Bates states (“The Naturalist on the Amazons,” vol. i. p. 194,
note) that “ many useful vegetable products have been reclaimed, and it is to
the credit of the Indians that they have discovered the use of the mandioc
plant, which is highly poisonous in the raw state, and requires a long prepara-
tion to fit it for use. It is cultivated throughout the whole of Tropical America
. . . but only in the plains, not being seen, according to Humboldt, higher than
from six hundred to eight hundred metres, at which elevation it grows on the
Mexican Andes. I believe it is not known in what region the plant originated ;
it is not found wild in the Amazons valley.”

NOTES ON BOTANY AND GEOLOGY.

421

cook. He said no power on earth would induce him to send up
such a disgusting dish !

There are, of course, hundreds of wild plants which are used
as food, for medicine, for dyeing purposes, etc. Press of other
work prevented my being able to work out this matter as I should
like to have done, but I may mention indigo, Indigofera tinctoria ;
salsaparilha or sarsaparilla, Smilax sarsaparilla ; and ipecacuanha,
Cephcelis ipecacuanha , also called zucaquenha or picahonha. The
name ipecacuanha is derived from the Indian ipe-cad-go'ene, “ the
little plant which causes emeticism ” (goene) ; or from ipe-cad-
ainha , “ the little plant of the woman ” ( cunha ), being much used
in feminine complaints (Captain Burton, vol. i. p. 164, note).

Erythroxylon. — One species of this genus, the celebrated
coca, which is now becoming medically famous in England, is
extensively “used in Peru for its remarkable power of stimu-
lating the nervous system, in which respect it quite resembles
opium. The leaves are used with a small mixture of finely
powdered chalk.” *

Melastomaceseare handsome trees, shrubs, or herbaceous plants;
the leaves have five or three ribs ; the flowers are purple or yellow.

There are many plants and shrubs, producing excellent fruit, of
which I am unable to give the names. One (found December 10,
1883) grows on a shrub about one foot high; it is called pitanga,
and is a bright crimson fruit, very luscious, tasting like an egg-plum,
and has a large bean-shaped kernel. Another good fruit, called
caju, is very curious. It is like a small yellow apple in shape,
and, though rather astringent, tastes like an over-ripe American
apple ; its large bean-shaped seed grows outside, on the top of the
fruit ( Psidium sp.).

Notes on the Geology of the Districts visited.!

As I had no opportunity of inspecting the limestone districts
of the valley of the Rio Paraopeba, wherein occur, in the caves,
the remains of men and of animals under similar circumstances to

* “The Vegetable Kingdom,” p. 381. John Lindley, 1853.
t M. Liais’s “Geologic du Bresil ” has been frequently referred to, “Cli-
mats, Faune,” etc., pp. 1-38.

422

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

our own limestone caves, and as I was unable to visit the metalli-
ferous districts of Pitanguy, Ouro Preto, or Sao Joao del Rey,
though these were all within a ride of a few hours, I shall con-
fine my remarks to the gneissic formations and their decomposi-
tion.

Stratified gneiss forms the total mass of the soil in all elevated
parts near Rio de Janeiro and over vast areas of the empire of
Brazil, the vegetable earth resting immediately on the top of these
strata. I observed the same strata at Bahia. Gardner found it in
the province of Ceara, five hundred miles to the north of Bahia ;
and “ Humbolt describes the gneiss-granite over an immense area
in Venezuela, and even Columbia.”* The mineral composition of
gneiss — which is made up of quartz, felspar, and mica — is the
same as the components of granite, the only difference is in the
former’s foliated texture, hence gneiss may be described as schistose-
granite. The gneiss is always upheaved at a high angle, and though
the base is felspathic, the different strata have important structural
differences in composition ; granite and hornblende are present in
different localities, and modify very considerably the composition
of the rocks. To enter into the lithological structure of this group
of strata is beyond the scope of a brief article ; I should have to
describe porphyries, granite, syenite, diorite, pegmatite, eurite,
quartzite, gneiss, mica schists, magnetic ironstone, garnets, murchi-
sonite, kaolin (porcelain clay), and numerous other combinations
of quartz, felspar, mica (red, black, or yellow), hornblende, etc.,
with other metamorphosed sedimentary deposits.

The most salient characteristic of these gneisses is their con-
dition of decomposition, which has been effected on an immense
scale. Even the United States do not present such an intensity
of remarkable phenomena as do the rocks of Brazil. It is not
unusual to find the gneiss completely transformed into clays to a
depth of over three hundred yards. The barrancadas or canyons,
carved out by the rains, give the plainest evidence of this de-
composition. The heavy rains, especially after long continuance
of dry seasons, produce the most marvellous effect. As an
instance, I may cite (Liais) the storms of March, 1859, when five
inches and a half (fourteen centimetres) of rain fell at Rio de
# “ Geolog. Observ.,” Chas. Darwin, p. 424.

NOTES ON GEOLOGY.

423

Janeiro in two hours , and caused great erosions at the Morro do
Castello and on a multitude of argillaceous hills on the Nichteroy
side of the bay. One must have seen the torrents in the mountain
regions to understand the powerful part which, in the course of
centuries, these phenomena can exercise on the configuration of
the soil. I have mentioned how the different divides I worked
over (four within about twenty miles) are all about the same height
(3200 feet), and how these hills abound in canyons, and are sepa-
rated by steep valleys, hundreds of feet deep, and sometimes a
mile or more in breadth. Many of the erosions have the testi-
mony of ocular demonstration. The Visconde de Prados described
to M. Liais how one erosion occurred some forty years ago near
Barbecena. This crevasse was about seven acres and a half in
area, six hundred yards long, fifty-five yards wide, abd over thirty
feet deep. Therefore, from four hundred thousand to five hundred
thousand cubic yards were washed away from this hillside, and
the earth excavated entirely disappeared, being carried away by
the waters. As these canyons are often from one hundred to three
hundred feet deep, they show the power of decomposition by
atmospheric agents on the gneiss, and this is in active operation
to-day.

These phenomena explain the valleys of denudation ; they
reveal how watersheds have been changed so that the original
tributaries of the Parahyba do Sul or Rio de la Plata may now
flow to the Rio Sao Francisco ; and they show how valleys may
be formed much more rapidly than might be considered at first
sight. It is important to bear in mind the varying resistance to
decomposition of different strata. This is the reason of the
irregular and picturesque features so abundant in the mountain-
ranges, of which the Organs offer a remarkable example. The
name “ Organ Mountains ” has been given from the supposed
resemblance of its peaks to the pipes of an organ, especially when
seen from Rio. In the account of my journey to Petropolis, I
have mentioned the vertical walls of rock surrounding the huge,
deep amphitheatre now clothed in virgin forest, which the railway
scales triumphantly. The pyramids and masses of rock consist
of the harder portions of the original strata, which have been
thrust up, like the slates of the Longmynd, in Shropshire, at a

424

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

very high angle, the softer strata being gradually washed away.
Such remarkable forms as the Sugar-loaf, the Pedra da Gavea,
the Corcovado, and others near Rio, with the Pedra da Fortaleza
near Parabybuna, are instances of the same phenomena ; the views
of sublime beauty which these marvellous peaks present, with the
luxuriant vegetation which drapes their less abrupt sides and
covers the fertile valleys at their base, at once arrest the atten-
tion and charm the eye of even the most insouciant of travellers.

My various visits to the railway in course of construction up
the Corcovado afforded some insight into the decomposition of
the gneiss. I have mentioned that the railway crosses huge
gorges, and then plunges into tremendous cuttings. The latter,
sometimes nearly a hundred feet deep, were often entirely through
decomposed strata, reduced to a clay which could be scraped
with the finger, and in which the lines of stratification, contortion
of strata, anticlinal and synclinal axes, etc., are very distinctly
marked ; the clay being interspersed with veins of hard quartz,
and sometimes masses of grey granite which had to be blasted.
The photograph of the Principe do Grao Para Railway to Petro-
polis gives an instance of such masses of rock standing out from
the decomposed gneiss. These phenomena occur along the
whole course of the Estrada de Ferro Dom Pedro II. to Queluz de
Minas, and over our line to Pitanguy, being strongly marked at
the divides. To the engineer these features are inconvenient.
The masses of hard rock necessitate very sharp curves in following
the course of the rivers near the watershed, especially past the
frequent cachoeiras (cataracts or waterfalls), when the river may
suddenly, after passing along a flat valley half a mile in width,
dash through a gorge twenty to fifty feet wide, with vertical sides.
Then, again, the argillaceous schists are very treacherous, both in
cuttings and banks. In the former, the formation width has to be
considerably wider than the line, to allow for the large amount of
clay eroded from the sides during the rains, and this is so serious
occasionally as to stop the traffic. In forming the embankment,
great care has to be exercised in the stuff used, large side-excava-
tions being often imperative, or even recourse to a neighbouring
slope to obtain good material; but after every precaution has
been taken, the banks may subside or slide away during the rains.

THE RAILWAY TO PETROPOLI.S.

NOTES ON GEOLOGY.

425

The then newly opened prolongation of the Estrada de Ferro Dom
Pedro II. to Queluz de Minas was thus affected in January, 1884,
and a long bank had to be remade, causing a stoppage of traffic
for some weeks. M. Liais considers the decomposition of the
gneiss to be wholly due to atmospheric causes. Mr. Darwin
thinks that it took place at a period of subsidence under the sea
before the valleys were carved out.* Mr. C. F. Hartt, who
accompanied M. Agassiz in his explorations in Rio, Bahia, and
the Amazon valley, believes “that it has taken place only in
regions anciently or at present covered by forest,” and says, “ This
decomposition results, in my opinion, from the action of the warm
rain-water soaking through the rock and carrying with it carbonic
acid, derived not only from the air, but from the vegetation
decaying upon the soil, together with organic acids, nitrate of
ammonia,” etc. He states that the same phenomena is observed
near New York and in the Neilgherries. M. Agassiz in his
“ Journal in Brazil,” f lays great stress on glacial action. This is
a matter which deserves a few remarks, as it is of paramount im-
portance.

I never observed any transported blocks, or striations, or roches
moutonnees , or anything that could be considered as glacial drift.
M. Agassiz is obliged to admit that he never saw any striations
which are such a characteristic feature of glacial phenomena, but
attributes their disappearance to atmospheric decomposition.
Mr. Hartt began his explorations strongly opposed to the glacial
theory ; but the result of his examinations and intercourse with
M. Agassiz led him fully to acquiesce in the professor’s theory of
glaciation. I must be content with summarizing in a few words
M. Liais’s statement, and confess that I lean strongly to accepting
his views. I may also state that Dr. G. S. de Capanema, in his
work, “ Decomposicao dos Penedos do Brazil,” | disbelieves in
the glacial origin of the surface deposits claimed by Professor
Agassiz and Mr. Hartt to be drift, and rather considers them to
be the work of decomposition alone. Mr. Hartt lays much stress
on the absence of stratification near the surface, attributing this

* “ Geological Observations,” p. 428.

f “Geological and Physical Geography of Brazil,” p. 25.

t Published at Rio, 1866.

426

A YEAR IN BRAZIL.

to the deposit of glacial drift. M. Liais explains that the action
of vegetation, animals, insects, dry and wet seasons, wind, etc.,
are sufficient to destroy the evidence of stratification in these
cases. Professor Drummond’s article on the “Work of the
Termites,”* in which he claims that these insects carry on in the
intertropical regions a similar work to that of the earthworms in
the temperate zones, at least affords a comfirmation of M. Liais’s
view; and I have alluded to the parti-coloured heaps which they
construct, and which forms perhaps the most noticeable feature of
the campos. This proves from how many different strata even one
nest is made, and the burrowing of these insects, with the cabequdo
ants ( Atta cephalotes), and the armadillos, must necessarily destroy
all traces of stratification to a considerable depth.

“ Mr. Belt calculates that the vast amount of water abstracted
from the ocean and locked up in mountains of ice around the two
poles would lower the general level of the ocean about two thousand
feet. This would be equivalent to a general elevation of the land
to the same amount, and would thus tend to intensify the cold; and
the subsidence of the ocean would produce a tract of lowland of
an average width of some hundreds of miles, added to the whole
east coast of Central and South America. This tract would no
doubt become covered with forests as it was slowly formed, would
enjoy a perfectly tropical climate, and would thus afford an
ample area for the continued existence and development of the
typical South American fauna ; even had the glaciers descended
in places so low as what is now the level of the sea.” f

I would suggest that a difference of two thousand feet in the
level of the highlands above the sea would not suffice for the
production of the supposed glaciers. This presumption of a glacial
period in the tropics presents great difficulties. First, a vast
expanse of collecting ground is necessary at a considerable alti-
tude for the neve to consolidate into glaciers at a lower level ;
secondly, it requires for a very prolonged period a very low
temperature in the intertropical regions, which would presumably
mean such an intense cold in what are now the temperate climes
that no life could there exist. I cannot see that either of these

* Good Words, May, 1885.

t “Geographical Distribution of Animals,” vol. i. p. 151, A. R. Wallace.

NOTES ON GEOLOGY.

427

premises is proved, especially by osteological relics. M. Liais
enters into the glacial theory at great length, but I must refer my
readers to his book for a full consideration of the subject. He
holds that so far from the equatorial region being less warm at
any past epoch, the temperature must have been higher to permit
the formation of the vast amount of vapour necessary to produce
the snows and ice in the temperate zone, which brought about
our glacial period. Besides which, no rotation of the earth’s axis
could make the equatorial region even temporarily polar. M.
Liais also cites the existence of remains of animals in the caves
covered by the same red clay which M. Agassiz considers to be
drift. These animals must have lived piior to the supposed glacial
epoch, yet they are identical with existing species now found in
the same localities.

M. Liais also shows that the so-called erratic blocks are in
close proximity to the virgin rock whence they have b een derived.
This is also the case with the angulated quartz pebbles described
by Mr. Hartt as water-carried stones lying under the drift clay ;
dykes and veins of the same material are always in close proximity.
M. Liais says, “When one is assured that these blocks come
really from the region where they are met with ; when one sees
them sometimes still partially fixed in the decomposed gneiss with
its primitive stratification ” (as I have described on the Corcovado
and Petropolis Railways) ; “ when, finally, one observes the vast
scale on which the decomposition of rocks by atmospheric action
is carried on in Brazil ; — these phenomena have a simple and natural
explanation, excluding entirely the idea of transport.” The
rounded forms which some of these blocks present is also attribu-
table to atmospheric action. M. Agassiz even describes rocks in
situ with the same peculiarities.

It is very difficult to estimate the thickness of the gneiss for-
mation in Brazil. In the Corcovado range, M. Liais estimates
it at a thousand metres. In the Organ Mountains and the
Mantiquiera range, in the province of Rio de Janeiro and South
Minas Geraes, at six thousand metres.

LIST OF BOOKS, etc., REFERRED TO.

Explorations of the Highlands of Brazil, Captain Richard F. Burton,
F. R.G.S. , etc. (now Sir Richard F. Burton, K.C.M.G.)

Climats, Geologie, Faune, et Geographie Botanique du Bresil, Emmanuel
Liais. Paris: 1872.

Hydrographie du haut San Francisco et du Rio das Velhas, Emmanuel
Lias. Paris : 1865.

The Naturalist on the River Amazon, H. W. Bates.

Travels in the Interior of Brazil, George Gardner, M.D., 1849.

Letters Home from . . . Brazil, Rev. Hamlet Clark, 1867.

A Voyage to South America, etc., G. J. and D. A. de Ulloa, 1758.

History of Brazil from 1808-1831, John Armitage.

Journal in Brazil, Louis Agassiz. Boston, U.S.A. : 1868.

The Naturalist in Nicaragua, Thomas Belt. London: 1874.

Geology and Physical Geography of Brazil, C. F. Hartt.

Geographical Distribution of Animals, A. R. Wallace.

Geological Observations during Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, Charles
Darwin.

Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs, Charles Darwin.

Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of H.M.S. Adventure and Beagle,

vol. iii.

Report on the Scientific Results of the Voyage of H.M.S. Challenger.
Narrative, vol. i. pt. I., 1885.

Brazil, its Provinces and its chief Cities, etc., William Scully.

Wanderings in South America, Waterton.

Revista Brasileira, V.

Guia do Viajante no Rio de Janeiro. Rio : 1882.

Unity of Nature, Duke of Argyll.

Culture and Religion in some of their Relations, J. C. Shairp.

Magazin de Zoologie, Guerin, 1833.

Manual of Zoology, Dr. Alleyne Nicholson.

Arcana Entomologica, J. O. Westwood. London: 1843.

Homes without Hands, Rev. J. G. Wood.

Insects Abroad, Rev. J. G. Wood.

Insect World, Figuier.

Beitriige zur Naturgeschicte von Brasilien, Prince Maximilian.

Systematische Uebersicht der Thiere Brasiliens, Dr. H. Burmeister.

Expose sommaire des theories transformistes, Dr. A. Vianna de Lima.
Paris : 1886.

The Descent of Man, Charles Darwin.

Le Monde Primitif, Oswald Heer.

Animal Parasites, Professor P. J. von Beneden.

Diccionario de medecina popular, P. L. N. Chernoviz. Paris: 1878.
Nomenclator Avium Neotropicalium, P. L. Sclater and O. Salvin.
Conchilien Sammlung, Paetel.

Manual of Mollusca, H. and A. Adams, 1858.

43°

LIST OF BOOKS, ETC., REFERRED TO.

Manual of the Mollusca, S. P. Woodward, 1880.

Synonymic Catalogue of Diurnal^ Lepidoptera, with Appendixes, W. F.
Kirby,

Catalogue of W. C. Hewitson’s Collection of Diurnal Lepidoptera, W. F.
Kirby.

Exotic Butterflies, W. C. Hewitson.

Wiener Entomologisher Monatschrift, vii., Lederer.

List of the Lepidoptera Heterocera in the Collection British Museum, F.
Walker.

Species general des Lepidopteres Heteroeres, Boisduval et Guenee.
Transactions, Linnean Society.

Proceedings, Entomological Society.

Tropical Nature, A. R. Wallace.

Genera des Coleopteres, etc., Th. Lacordaire. Paris: 1854.

Catalogus Coleopterorum, Dr. Gemminger and B. de Harold. Munich:
1869.

Catalogue of the Specimens of Blattarice Collection British Museum, F.
Walker.

Catalogue of the Specimens of Dermaptera saltatoria Collection British
Museum, F. Walker.

Lists of the Specimens of Homopterous Insects Collection British Museum,
F. Walker.

Insect World, Louis Figuier.

Catalogue of the Specimens of Heteropterous Hemiptera Collection British
Museum, F. Walker.

Genera Plantarum, G. Bentham et J. D. Hooker.

Synopsis Filicum, Sir W. J. Hooker et J. G. Baker.

The Vegetable Kingdom, John Lindley, 1853.

Journal of Botany. June, 1885.

Diccionario de Botanica Brasileira. Joaquim de Almeida Pinto. Rio de
Janeiro.

O orgamento do Imperio desde sua fundagao, Senador Liberato de Castro
Carreira. Rio de Janeiro : 1883.

Apontamentos para a geographia da Provincia de Minas Geraes, H. Laem-
mert and Cia. Rio de^ Janeiro : 1883.

Jornal de Commercio, Rio de Janeiro (daily paper).

Gazeta de Noticias, Rio de Janeiro (daily paper).

Gazeta de Tarde, Rio de Janeiro (evening paper).

O Brazil, Rio de Janeiro (daily paper).

Revista de Engenharia.

Le Bresil, Paris.

Rio News> Rio de Janeiro.

The Times, London.

The Morning Post, London.

The South American Journal, London.

The Entomologist, 1885.

Good Words, May 1885.

The Statist.

INDEX.

A

Abrolhos, lighthouse, 18
Advance , S.S., from New York, 207,
21 1 ; food on board, 21 1
Aguara. Vide Wolf
Aipim. Vide Yams
Aleixo Tavares de Carvalho, 79, 154,
161 ; his house, 111 ; his cooking,
85, 107; his “sogro,” 112, 1 7 1 ;
hospitality, 76

Alfandega (custom house), Rio, 21, 201
Aloes, 53
Americanisms, 21 1
Amerigo dos Santos, Dr., 85
Anaconda (snake), 70
Ancient type of lamp, 36
Anginhos (little angels), 155, 158
Anniversary of taking the Bastille, 209
Antipathy to our railway, 81, 133, 168,
271

Ants, 92, 400 ; cabe?udo, 77, 82, 109,
400, 426 ; tanajura, 93, 400, 426
Apricots, 134, 147

Aqueduct at Lisbon, 11 ; at Rio, 225,
226

Arachnida (spiders), note on, 406
Armadillos (Tatus), 28 ; baiting, 66 ;
uneatable species, 67, 137 ; flesh of,
84, 92 ; habits, 85 ; note on, 353
Army held in low estimation, 191
Asthma and bronchitis, 155
Athletic sports at Rio, 22
Atmospheric effect, 176
Austrian bent-wood furniture, 155, 179

B

Baccalhao (salt codfish), 39, 161, 163
Bad roads, 41, 133; bad bridges, 55,
66, 136

Bahia : The bay, 241 ; the city, 242 ;
tramways, 242 ; Vittoria, 242 ; black
market-women, 243; sedan chair, 243;
markets, 243 ; toucans, 243 ; marmo-
sets, 243 ; exports, 244
Bahia oranges, 192

Ballantyne, R. M., The Young Trawler ,
187 note

Bamboo jungle, 90
Bamboos, 25, 37, 98, 132, 223
Bananas, 21, 25, 37, 68, 134, 142, 148,
417

Baptisms at Queluz, 27
Barbacena (Minas), 43, 143
Barrancas, or canyons, 37, 125, 178,
412 ; formation of, 37, 422
Basket-work, 54

Bates, Mr. H. W., quoted. 303, 346,
357 note, 363, 384, 385, 386, 397,
400, 405, 408
Bats, note on, 345

Bays : Biscay, 3, 252 ; moths in, 252 ;
Botafogo, 22, 183, 199: Carril, 7;
Rio de Janeiro, 19, 207 ; finest in
the world, 19 ; Turneresque view,
183 ; Vigo, 8

Bees, 87, 89, 399 ; swarming in veran-
dah, 74

Beggars, at Rio, 45 ; on horseback, 59
Belem (tower), Lisbon, 9, 231

432

INDEX.

Beetles, 77, 108, 1 14 ; list of four
hundred and two species collected,
389 ; notes on, 397

Bernos (tzetze), 108, hi, 120, 144;
note on, 410

Bertrand, Mr. William, 15

Bicho, application of term, 409 ; do pe.
Vide Jiggers ; do Embauba, 357 note

Bico do Papagau (Tijuca), 20, 223

Birds, 34, 38, 50, 51, 59, 75, 81, 83,
84, 85, 86, 87, no; brought to Eng-
land, no note ; nests, 108, 364 ; note
on thirty-five species, 358; fossil spe-
cies, 362

Bithell, Mr. John Joseph, 48, 54, 107,
168, 222, 228

Black beans (feijoes), 30, 36, 39, 60,
62, 129, 134, 161, 172, 420; cost of,
81

Botafogo, 185. Vide Bays : Origin of
name, 185 note ; botanical gardens,
22, 208 ; fishermen, 186 ; granite at,
200 ; Lagoa Rodriguez de Freitas,
22, 208 ; Mrs. Fairall, 202 ; our pen-
sion, 185, 186 ; our garden, 185 ;
scenery, 186 ; tramways, 208 ; me-
teorological notes, 341

Botany, 98, 120; notes on, 411; di-
vides of Rios Para and Paraopeba,

411 ; varieties of forests and thickets,

412 ; canyons, 412 ; genera of plants
observed, 413 ; list of species col-
lected, 414 ; a new orchid, 416 ;
notes on tobacco, bananas, sugar-
cane, cachaga, 417 ; chillies, quince,
gabiroba gooseberry, guava, potato,
sweet potato, 418 ; mandioc, prepa-
ration of farinha and tapioca, 419 ;
black beans, feijoada, 420 ; indigo,
salsaparilha, ipecacuanha (derivation
of name), 421 ; Erythroxylon, 421 ;
Melastomaceae, Psidium, 421. See
also Fruits, Flowers, etc.

Brazil nuts, cost of, 247

Breakfast in camp, 85, 129 ; picnics,
97, I3S

Bribery and corruption, 190, 200

Bridge over R. Camapuao, 103 ; over
R. Paraopeba, 178; dangerous, 55,
66, 136

Brumado. Vide Entre Rios
Bull-fight, 192
Bull frogs, no

Burity (palm fibre) hammock, 63, 93
Burton, Captain Richard F. , Highlands
of Brazil, quoted, 25, 86, 87, 91 note,
1 33, 145 note, 180 note, 262, 263, 268,
300, 301, 303, 345, 347, 348, 349,
35°. 359, 362, 367, 407, 408, 410, 417
Butterflies, 23, 34, 91, 93, 139, 173,
185 ; swarms on damp ground, 74 ;
expeditions, 154; hunting-grounds,
1 51 ; brilliant pupae, 167; protective
colouring, 185, 384, 385 ; list of two
hundred and fifty-nine species col-
lected, 369 ; others from Minas
Geraes, 374

Butter machinery (Minas), 172

C

Cabbage palm (boiled), 69
Cabo Frio (Brazil), 19, 207
Cachaga, 32, 36, 57, 60, 70, 417 ; cost
of, 82 ; used for washing, 70
Cacti, S3, 142, 216
Calabashes, 173
Calvaries, 35, 80, 159
Camara (wood), 80
Camp of second section, 55, 72, in
Camp of third section, 62
Campos (downs), 33, 51, 53, 59, 74,
90, 95, 412, 422

Camps, my, 76, 80, 86, 118, 123

Canary birds, 127

Canary Islands. Vide Islands

Candles, composite, 149 ; cost of, 39

Canoes, 212

Canteen (Silver’s), 77

Canons, or canyons. Vide Barrancas

Cape Verd Islands. Vide Islands

Capibara, 70 ; note on, 346

Capitao Sydney, 98, 123

INDEX.

433

Capoeira (second growth of forest), 79>
90, 120, I2X, 131, 178, 412
Cara. Vide Yams

Carandahy, 25, 44 ; origin of name,
25 note ; hotel accommodation at,

25> 32

Came secca (sun-dried beef), 38, 60
Carrapatos (bush ticks), 31, 38, 77,
86, 109, in, 1 19, 173; precautions
against, 86 ; note on, 407
Carril, bay of, 7
Carrinho (small ox-cart), 136
Carros. Vide Ox-carts
Castor-oil, 51, 59, 60, 68, 134, 172;

lamps, 36, 58, 126
Catamaran (raft), 245, 275
Channel fleet at Vigo, 8
Chapels, crude ornamentation of, 106.

Vide Entre Rios
Cheap living, 81

Chickens, 64; stew, 38, 85; roast, 107;
cost of, 81 ; method of packing, 125,
126 ; black skinned, 21 1
Chillies, 134, 418
Churchyards, 65
Chutar hasri, 96, 148
Cicadas, 91 ; note on, 404
Cidade de Entre Rios. Vide Entre
Rios

Cidade do Rio de Peixe, 54, 72 ; ac-
commodation at, 72
Cigarette making, 60
Cintra Hills (Lisbon), 9, 25 1
Ciriema (ostrich), 38, 75, 87, 362
Civil marriage at Bordeaux, 6
Cleanliness not a Brazilian virtue, 1 12
Clever cat, a, 51

Climate, healthiness of, Minas Geraes,
27. 57

Cloudless nights, 1 10. Vide Weather
Coal, Brazilian name for, 123 note
Coati, 34, 246 ; note on, 347
Cockroaches, note on, 403
Cocks and hens, cost of, 82
Cocoanut trees, 246
Coffee, 25, 51, 60, 68, 134, 142; cost
of, 39, 81 ; plantations, 134, 180

Coinage and currency, note on, 301 ;
the empire in difficulties, 302, 303 ;
paper currency, 302; copper, 301,

302 ; depreciation of the milreis,

303

Cold nights in the tropics, 27. Vide
Weather

Collections, requests to make, 1 20
Comet, 142, 332
Communicants. Vide Religion
Conservatives, 61, 1 14, 143, 293, 296
Cookery book, native, 92
Corcovado (Rio de Janeiro), 19, 23,
185, 199, 200, 212, 213, 224, 424;
ascents of, 204, 225 ; colony proposed
at Peineiras, 206 ; railway, 205, 212 ;
geology, 424 ; view from summit,
207

Coronel Joao Luiz de Oliveira Campos
(Fazenda da Mata), 56, 58, 71
Corruption in Government offices, 190,
200

Confiscation of convent property, 188
Cost of, beef, 148; cachaja, 82; chickens,
81 ; cocks and hens, 82; coffee, 39,
81 ; composite candles, 39; cucum-
bers, 130; eggs, 81; farinha, 81;
grapes, 130; kids, 148; limes, 130;
native wine, 72 ; pork, 82 ; Portu-
guese white wine, 81 ; potatoes, 138 ;
rice, 81; sugar, 39, 82; Swedish
matches, 82
Cost of transport, 28
Cotopaxi, S.S., P.S.N.C. , 1, 13, 45,
209 ; log of outward passage in, 257 ;
electric light on board, 7 ; fire-drill,
15 ; thanks to Captain Hayes, 255
Cotton, 51, 72, 134 ; cotton plant, 172
Cowardice of natives, 81, 85, 86
Creepers. Vide Llianas
Crickets, 95, 1 10, 403
Cruelty, in killing cattle on board, 17 ;

to animals, 41, 67, 125, 197
Cucumbers, 129, 134, 136 ; cost of, 130
Cultivation, scanty, 42, 134
Custom house, Liverpool, 201 ; Rio de
Janeiro, 21

434

INDEX.

D

Deaf and dumb, 143, 144

Death, of H. R. H. the Duke of Albany,

1 71 ; of Mr. George Ransom, 85
note ; of the Major do Cortume, 100
Decimal system, note on, 300
Delays, at funeral, 102 ; by ox-carts,
28, 39, 124, 125, 126 ; postal service,
44, 48; railways, 30, 31, 32, 42;
theatres, 46 ; in transmitting letters,
77 ; luggage, 80

Delinquencies, postal, 49, 146, 167
Deluges, tropical, 96. Vide Thunder-
storms and Weather
Dermaptera ( Orthoptera ), notes on, 402;
cockroaches, 403 ; locusts and grass-
hoppers, 403
Dinner in camp, 85, 108
Diptera , 91

Disregard of time by natives, 30, 39,
83. Vide Delays

Divides, or watersheds, 170, 41 1, 423 ;
of the Rio Para, 74 ; near Serra do
Cortume, 78, 79

Dixie, Lady Florence, at Tijuca, 223
Dog, a thin, 21 1 ; our dogs, 53, 108,

ii3

Dress, anginhos (little angels), 159;
boys, 129; men, 43, 62, 175; mourn-
ing, 105, 106; women, 62, 175 ; old
women, 116
Drying clothes, 133

Dry season in Minas Geraes, 28, Vide
Weather

Dust coats, 25, 43

E

Earwigs, 109

Edentates, note on, 352 ; ant-eaters,
species of, 352 ; armadillos, species
of, 353; sloths, species of, 356; bicho
do Embaiiba, 357 note
Effect of the rains on work, 121
Eggs, 30, 61, 79, 161 ; cost of, 81
Electric light on board Cotopaxi, 7

Emigrants, 7, 8, 251 ; singing of, 14.
Vide Immigration

Emperor of Brazil, H.M. the, 22, 165,
191, 235, 291, 292, 295
Engineer, fiscal, of Minas Geraes, 148,
152

Engineering, difficulties, 424 ; experi-
ences, 35, 39, 42; feats, 25, 215;
in the rain, 29, 12 1, 13 1 ; railway
exploration, 31, 35, 42, 66, 73, 77,
170, 171 ; scheme of our railway,
170; plans and drawings, 85, 148,

1 5 1 , 170; passed by the President,
156; completion of outdoor work,

139, 171

Entre Rios (Brumado), Cidade de, 35,
36, 41; beef, 148; chapel, 146;
church, 145, 150 ; description of
town and principal inhabitants, 149 ;
foreign musicians, 154 ; foreign ped-
lars, 153; Grand Plotel, 150; house
hire, 141 ; my house and garden,
141, 142; Hotel Entre Riano, 140;
huts of the poor, 150, 151 ; kids,
148; luxuriant vegetation, 151 ; Missa
cantata, 146 ; main street, 145 ; mo-
notonous life. 173; my guests, 161,
166; our office, the chief’s house and
garden, 147 ; post-office, 146 ; care-
lessness at, 146; railway time-table
(proposed), 151; shops or stores, 142
Epiphany in camp, 1 29
Espirito Santo (coast of), 18, 241
Evolution theory, article on, 379 ; Mr.
W. C. Hewitson and Mr. R. Trimen,
379 ; objection to the theory, 380 ;
harmony between revelation and na-
ture, 380 ; the reason of conflicting
opinions, 380 ; unity in variety, 381 ;
evolution does not account for phe-
nomena, 381 ; degeneration, 381, 382;
man and his capabilities, 382 ; the
true object in studying nature, 383 ;
Dr. Vianna de Lima’s book, 383 note
Exports from Minas Geraes, 61 ; coffee,
210 ; from Minas, 262
Exposed rocks, 79. Vide Waterfalls

INDEX.

435

F

Falkland Islands, 15, 16
Familiarity of slaves, 33
Fan palms, 37, 200

Fazendas : Da Boa Vista, 37 ; do

Campo Novo, 52 ; do Cortume, 79,
97, 101, 105 ; visit of bishops to,
267 ; devoid of comfort, 52 ; do En-
genho, 136; Fructuoso, 64, 70; da
Mata, 56, 71 ; da Pedra Branca, 51 ;
Padre Pinto’s, 135, 138; do Sape-
cado, 56

Fernando de Noronha, 18, 124; note
on, 272

Ferns, 93, 97, 98, 173, 413, 414, 416
Fete du Tropique, 14
Fever among the Staff in Para Valley,
144

Financial condition of Brazil, note on,

304 ; details of Budgets, 1823-1880,

305 ; colonization, 306 ; foreign and
home debt, 307 ; expedients of the
Treasury, 307 ; bad management,
308 ; officialism, 308 ; suggested re-
forms, 310; outlook for investors,
311; table showing realized loans,
312 ; notes on recent and current
Budgets, 313 ; report of Brazilian
Finance Minister for 1885, 314

Fire drill on board Cotopaxi, 15
Fireflies (beetles), 77, 95, 114, 124,
392, 397

Fireplaces, non-existent in Minas, 145,

317

Fires, disastrous, in plantations, 57
Fireworks, 23, 197, 198
Fleas, 109

Flowers, handsome, 91, 98 ; in spring,
90

Flying fish, 15
Fog-horn, 2, 252

Food, on board P.S.N.C. steamers, 3 ;
at Rio, 46 ; at Paraopeba, 30 ; at
fazendas, 57. Vide Fazendas

Forests, near divides (Para), 74;

scenery, 39. Vide Virgin Forest

Freed blacks, 58, 116, 283, 288
Fruit trees uncared for, 147
Funerals, 101, 133, 155, 167; music
at, 103 ; priests at, 104
Furniture of houses, 36, 155
Future life of animals, 67

G

Garonne (river), 5, 7
Gaviao (hawk), 85, 86, 361
Geology, 120; article on, 421; lime-
stone caves and their fossils, 421 ;
gneissic formations, 422 ; decompo-
sition of gneiss, 422 ; formation of
canyons, 422 ; divides, 423 ; valleys
of denudation, 423 ; Organ Moun-
tains, 423 ; Petropolis Railway, 423,

424 ; Sugar Loaf, Pedra da Gavea,
Corcovado, Pedra da Fortaleza, 424 ;
engineering difficulties, 424 ; Dom
Pedro II. Railway, 425 ; views of
Darwin, Agassiz, Liais, Iiartt, Capa-
nema, 425 ; glacial theory examined,

425 ; action of vegetation, animals,
etc., on surface of the soil, 426;
cabe^udo ants, termites, 426 ; glacial
period, 426 ; erratic (?) blocks, 427 ;
thickness of gneiss, 427

Gironde (river), 3, 4, 252
Glass eye, a, 47, 150, 174
Glover, Mr. William H., 45, 212
Goat cart, 56
Goitre, 36, 64

Good qualities of natives, 83. Vide
Native customs

Gooseberry (gabiroba), 127, 134, 418
Gorges, 90, 424. Vide Waterfalls
Gourds, 59, 172
Granite at Botafogo (Rio), 200
Grapes, 72, 134 ; cost of, 130
Grasshoppers, 95 ; note on, 403
Guavas, 418; marmalade, 155 > un"
palatable raw, 154

Guitar-playing in Minas, 114, 116.

Vide Native music

436

INDEX.

H

Hair cutting, 1 1 3

Hanging birds’-nests, 59 ; note on, 359
Hargreaves, Senhor, 27, 28, 179
Health affected by rainy season, 128,
141

Healthiness of climate (Minas), 27
Hector, Mr. William, 21 1
Hemiptera , list of, collected, 405
Hills (morros), Rio de Janeiro, 207, 212
Hill of Pedra Branca, 50, 74
Hoffmann, Mr. Robert G., 21 1
Homoptera , list of, collected, 404
Ploney bees, use of resin by, 90. Vide
Hymenoptera
Hornets, 28

Hospitality in Minas — Engineers at
Queluz, 27; fazendeiros, 38, 51, 52,
56, 58, 60, 64, 65, 70, 71, 97, 10 1 ,
102 ; Sr. Hargreaves, 27, 28 ; Sr.
Joao Baptista, q.v. ; priests, 63, 68 ;
poor natives, 76 ; sermon on, 63
Hostility to railway, 81, 168
Hotels : Brumado, 140 ; Carandahy,
25, 32; Lafayette (Queluz), 179;
Paraopeba, 30, 32, 75 ; Rio de
Janeiro, 24, 46, 182 (Carson’s).

House construction, 33
House hire, cost of, 30, 141
Humming birds, 75 ; notes on, 360, 363
Hymenoptera, notes on : Highest orders
of insects, 399 ; bees and wasps, 399 ;
ants, 400

I

Idleness of natives, 42, 43. Vide In-
dolence

Illegal proceedings of Government, 188
Immigration, 134, 307 note
Importation of food, 42, 61
Indians, 65 ; wild, 70
Indigo, 145, 421

Indolence of natives, 122, 123, 134,
147. Vide Delays
Inflamed scratches, 128, 141
Inn, at Serra, 36 ; Camapuao, 125

Insects in spring, 95.

Insects. Vide Ants, Beetles, Butter-
flies, Moths, etc.

Insinuations, 16 1
Intense heat, 1 1 1

Intermarriage vdthin prohibited degrees,
143, 192

Invitation to funeral, 101
Ipecacuanha, derivation of name, 421
Iron trunks, value of, in wet season, 126
Islands : Abrolhos, 18 ; Canary, 13,
14, 250; Gran Canaria, 13, 14, 250;
emigrants, 25 1 ; Canary wine, 251 ;
Cape Verd, 15, 250 ; weird appear-
ance, 248 ; S. Antonio, 249 ; Falk-
land, 15, 16; S. Paul’s Rocks, 17;
Fernando de Noronha, 18, 124 ; note
on, 272 ; Ilha do Governador (bay of
Rio), 198, 213

Italians, 53, 123, 179 ; musicians, 154 ;
priests, 53

J

Jacu (bird), 81, 361
Jiggers, 38, 144, 191 ; note on, 409
Joao Baptista de Oliveira e Souza,
Senhor, 36, 50, 148, 150, 152, 171,
174 ; disinterestedness, 153 ; his
family, 143; his house, 150, 154;
hospitality, 41, 74, 140, 142, 153,
154; makes butter, 172 ; present to,

83

Joao de Barro (bird), 59, 359
Joaquim Gonjalves de Souza, Sr., 126,
136; his fazenda, 136
Joaquim Ribeiro de Oliveira, Senhor,
142, 156; his daughter, a splendid
musician, 143, 147 ; hospitality, 152
Joscelino Pacheco de Souza, Senhor,
136, 149

Juiz de Fora (city), 143

K

“ Kill the worm,” 84
Killing cattle on board, 17
Knives, native, 60

INDEX.

437

L

Ladies at dinner, 44
Lafayette (Queluz), 178, 179; hotel,
179

Lagoon Rodriguez de Freitas, 22, 208
Language, Brazilian, 35 1 note ; inter-
change of / and r, 56 note
Larangeiras (Rio), 204
Laranginha (orange gin), 81, 92
Large, Mr. Thomas W., 146, 155, 170,
171, 183, 192, 199, 212, 225. Vide
Camp of second section
Lassitude in summer, 122
Lattmann, Mr. A. (New York), 21 1
Leather trunks, bad for wet season,
127

Lemons, 70, 73, 134
Letter, a curious, 49
Liais, M. Emmanuel, quoted, 262, 263,
264, 316-321, 345, 347, 348, 349,
35°, 352, 353-356, 357, 358, 366,
421 note , 422, 423, 425, 426, 427
Liberals, 61, 143. Vide Slavery
Libraries, priests’, 63, 69
lames, 134; cost of, 130
Lisbon, 9 ; aqueduct, 1 1 ; Belem tower,
9, 251 ; “ Black Horse square,” 10 ;
lunch, 12 ; jewellers’ shops, 10 ;
public gardens, 10; quarantine, 251 ;

“ Square of the rolling motion,” 12 ;
sub-tropical plants, 10, II; tram-
ways, 10 ; waterworks, 1 1
List of fruits, vegetables, etc. , 1 34
Liverpool Custom House, 255
Lizards, 89, 92 ; flesh of, 92 ; note on,

365

Llianas, 54, 91, 131, 132 ; used in
building log huts, 80
Locomotive engines, 26, 31, 42, 269
Locusts and grasshoppers-, note on,

403

Log of outward passage, 257 ; return
passage, 258
Longevity, 57, 58 note
Ludicrous predicament, 177
Lunar rainbow, 152

M

Mackenzie, Mr. Colin, 212
Maize (Indian corn), 37, 52, 55, 60, 72,
134, 172 ; angii (porridge), 135, 172 ;
biscuits (broas), 84, 135 ; canjica
(boiled maize), 64, 135 ; cattle food,
135; farinha, 135; flour (fuba), 84,
135 ; fried pop-corn, (pipoca) 61 ;
large yield, 124 ; luxuriant growth,
135 ; mattresses, 26, 36, 52, 126 ;
plantations, 172; sponge cake
(mamath), 68 ; straw for cigarettes,
60 ; winnowing, 70

Major Joao Ferreira do Cortume, 79 ;

death, 100 ; funeral, 101
Mandioc, 52, 55, 73, 134, 419 ; cost of,
81 ; farinha, 36, 39, 60, 62, 77, 85 ;
preparation of, 41, 58, 419 ; tapioca,
41, 419; biscoitos de polvilho, 41,
65, 84

Mango trees, 185, 222
Mantiqueira range, 25, 260 ; tunnel
through, 25
Maranliao market, 21 1
Marimbombos (wasps), 85, 122, 399
Marmelada (quince), 61, 134
Marmosets, 73, 185, 243, 247, 345
Marriage, at Bordeaux, 6 ; at Queluz,
27

Marshes (brejos), 93, 121, 122, 125,
139, 412, 414
Mass. Vide Religion
“ Matar o bicho,” 84
Matches, Swedish, cost of, 82
Maua, 213

Maunders, Mr. George, 299 note
Medicine : Cockle’s Pills, Warburg’s
Tincture, 144
Melons, 129, 134
Mersey (river), 255

Meteorological notes. Vide Minas
Geraes and Botafogo
Milk, 92, 145

Milreis, value of, 201. Vide Financial
condition of Brazil

Minas Geraes: Blind folk, 1 1 5 ; cost

438

INDEX.

of transport, 28 ; fiscal engineer,
148, 152 ; hospitality, q.v. ; house
construction, 33 ; schoolboys, 43 ;
shops, 33 ; population, 267 ; state of
crime in, 123; the President, 29,
152, 156 ; traffic on main roads, 39,

99

Minas Geraes : Meteorology — Cold in
winter, 27, 28 ; dry season, 28 ;
snow, 1 15; severe winter of 1870,
316; explanation, 318; hail, 319;
storms and rain, 320; mists, 321;
meteorological notes, at Casa Grande,
322 ; Serra, 322 ; Olhos d’Agua,
325 ; Camapuao, 328 ; Entre Rios
(Brumado), 331 ; note on thermo-
metrical and barometrical readings,
33i

Minas Geraes : Notes on the province
— First explorations, 259 ; contest
for supremacy, 260 ; area, 260 ;
mountain ranges, 260 ; rivers, 261 ;
exports, 262 ; the mines, 262 ; poli-
tical representatation, 265 ; curious
names of parishes, 265 ; ecclesiastical
division, 267

Minas Geraes : Railways, note on, 267 ;
Dom Pedro II., 268 ; Oeste de Minas
(Sao Joao del Rey), 269, 271 ; Ouro
Pretana, 269 ; Leopoldina, 270 ;
Minas and Rio, 270 ; Minas Central,
270

Mince-pies, 154
Mint sauce, 148
Mocata (rice and cow-heels), 64
Monjolo (water-mill), 137
Monkeys, 90, 139; note on, 345
Moon, magnificent, 95
Morritt, Mr. William (Petropolis), 253
Morritt, Mr. John M. (Petropolis), 218
Morros (hills), Rio de Janeiro, 20, 183,
197, 207, 212. Vide Rio de Janeiro,
town of

Mosquitoes, 23, 122, 139
Moths, 91 ; list of one hundred and
forty-nine species collected, 276
Mountain scenery (Petropolis), 218

Mud birds’-nests, 59, 359

Musical evenings, 71, 114, 116

N

Native bridges, 55, 66, 103, 136, 178 ;
coffins, 102, 103, 155, 167 ; furniture
of houses, 36, 69 ; gardens, 37, 68,
127, 134; letters, 49, 101 ; produce,
90, 134; roads, 29, 41, 99, 133;
road crosses, 35, 80, 159

Native customs, 56, 60 ; unchanged for
two hundred years, 51 ; camping out,
40; children ask a blessing, 112 ;
cigarette making, 60 ; cruelty to
animals, 41, 67, 125, 197 : doctoring
horses, 50 ; familiarity, 33 ; going to
Mass, 62 ; home life, 113 ; ladies at
dinner, 44 ; sleeping in clothes, 26 ;
visitors, 69, 113, 127, 129, 139, 154,
161

Native food, 25, 39, 57, 163 ; break-
fast, 29, 53; butter, 172; cooks, 75,
85, 140, 145, 170, 177 ; cookery, 62,
85, 107 ; cookery book, 92 ; dinner,
29, 36 ; ovens, 148 ; poisoned fish,
71 ; salt, 61, 129; wines, cost of,
72, 82

Native music, 71, 114, 116, 168; bands,
43. I03> I5S» !56 5 dancing, u6;
singing, 157 ; spiritless, 115, 129;
nigger songs, 100, 116; a splendid
pianiste, 143, 147

Natives, cowardice of, 81, 85, 86 ;
curiosity, 40, 60, 66, 69 ; dirty habits,
163, 170; dress, q.v. ; good quali-
ties, 83 ; ideas about England, 105 ;
ideas on railway location, 57, 72, 73 ;
idleness, 42, 43 ; indolence, 122, 123,
134, 147 ; juries, 123 ; kindness of
slave, 136 ; longevity, 57 ; names of
persons, high-sounding, no; names
of parishes, curious, 265 ; polite-
ness, 129 ; spinning, 137, 145 ; talent
for mechanics, 137 ; native terms
“rapaz,” “ 01090,” = lad, 128;
weaving, 137, 145

INDEX.

439

Negresses, good-looking, 56
Neuroptera (termites), notes on, 401
Nhambu (bird), 84, 362
Nichteroy, 183, 184, 198, 207 ; ferry,
192 ; water supply, 192
Nightly preparations in camp, 96

O

Ocelot, note on, 350
Olhos d’Agua. Vide Villages
On$a (ounce), 70 ; visit to our camp,
87 ; different species, 87 ; note on, 348
Onions, 129, 134, 136
Orange gardens, 83
Oranges, 37, 59, 68, 134, 142, 185
Organ Mountains, 19, 34, 43, 197, 198,
206, 207, 210, 212, 224, 423
Origin of savage tribes by degradation,
article on, 296 ; man a family of one
genus, 297 ; his origin revealed, 297 ;
fossil remains show high develop-
ment, 297 ; degradation, how pro-
duced, 298 ; Mr. Drummond, 298
Orioles (birds), 50, 1 10, 359 ; har-
bingers of rain, 53

Orthoptera ( Dermaptera ), note on, 402
Ouro Branco range, 150
Ouro Preto, 29, 1 52 ; railway to, 28,
269

Ox-carts (carros), 29, 37, 39, 40, 56,
61, 75, 80, 100, in, 124, 141, 145.
172, 176; musical performance of,
29, 40, 100; carrinho, 136; ox-
sleigh, 58

P

Paca, 53 ; flesh of, 53, 92 ; note on,
246

Pack mules, 100

Palm avenue, Botanical Gardens, Rio,
23

Palms, 37, 53, 58, 71, 182, 200
Palm-fibre hammock, 63, 93

Parahybuna valley, 180; derivation of
name, 180

Paraopeba, hotel at, 30, 32, 75 ; dinner,
30; railway-station, 26, 1 5 1, 170,
180 ; scenery near, 33 ; butterflies,
birds, coati, 34 ; winter weather, 34
Parroquets, no

Parrots, 87, 139, 360, 363; flesh of,

87

Patriarchal life, 57 ; style of reckoning
riches, 112

Pauillac, 4, 253 ; cultivation, 253 ;
chateaux, 253 ; vineyards, 254 ;
hospitality, 254 ; houses, 254 ; pretty
lasses, 254

Peaches, 128, 129, 138, 148; given to
horses and pigs, 138
Peak of Teneriffe, 12, 13, 250
Pedra da Fortaleza (Minas), 180, 424
Pedra da Gavea (Rio), 200, 207, 224,
424

Pernambuco (Recife), 244 ; Brazil nuts,
cost of, 247 ; exports, 246 ; health
of, 246 ; landing passengers, 245 ;
market on board, 246 ; rafts (cata-
marans), 245 ; rainy season, 247, 320;
curious sandstone reef, 244, 246, 256
note ; storms, 320 ; telephone, 247
Petropolis, 215, 216; cold at, 215;
cotton mill, 219 ; German colony,
220 ; Hotel MacDowel, 215 ; garden,
216; mountain scenery, 218; mete-
orological notes, 344 ; public road,
Uniao e Industria Co., 217, 219;
railway, 213, 214, 221, 423, 424;
rivers, 217 ; old coach road, 219
Picadas, 62, 72
Pigs, 53, 60 ; sucking, 64
Pineapples, 148

Pink’s Oxford and Cambridge Sauce,

147

Pitanguy, 27,68, 70, 152, 270; mines
at, 262 ; newspaper, 98
Pitcairn Islanders, 191
Plano Inclinado (Sta. Theresa), 45, 225
Plantations, 25, 172
Plants, 173. Vide Botany, etc.

440

INDEX.

Poisoned fish, 71

Politics, 61, 167, 293, 296; fall of
Lafayette Ministry, 188 ; Senhor
Dantas, 19 1. Vide Slavery
Ponchos, 55, 25, 1 20, 177
Pork, 36, 57, 61 ; a l’Anglaise, 148 ;
cost of, 82

Porridge (oatmeal), 172; Indian corn,
172

Portuguese, money, 10 ; white wine in
Brazil, 36, 85 ; cost of, 8 1
Postage-stamps, use for old, 89
Post-office, delays, 44, 48 ; delinquen-
cies, 49, 146, 167 ; postman, 178
Potatoes, 89, 134, 138, 418 ; new, 148 ;
sweet, 418

Practical joke, a, 253
Presents from poor natives, 79, 84, 92
Preserved English soups, 76, 128
Prickly heat, 128

Priests, 36, 53, 104; Cajuru, 63, 71;
Sao Amaro, 80 ; Sao Gongalo do
Para, 66, 69 ; hardworking, 68, 69 ;
libraries, 63, 69 ; Padre Antonio, 84,
154, IS7, 163, 166; Padre Francisco,
105, 152; Padre Pinto, 135, 156,

167, 174, 176

Processions. Vide Religion
Prospects of trade in the interior, 60
Protective colouring and mimicry, 185 ;
article on, 384 ; butterflies and moths,
384 ; beetles, 386 ; grasshoppers and
Phasmidoe, 387 ; theory, 387
Psychical Research Society, a case for,
1 1 9 note.

Public assassination at Rio, 190
Public gardens, Lisbon, 10 ; at Rio,
Passeio Publico, 21, 199, 237 ; Largo
da Constituigao, 21 ; Parque da
Acclamagao, 238
Pullman cars, 24
Pumas, 28

Q

Queen Victoria, 115, 171

Queluz de Minas, 27, 124, 179;

baptisms, 27 ; Sr. Hargreaves, 27,
28, 179 ; hospitality, 27 ; marriages,
27 ; Mass, 27
Quince, 61, 134, 418

R

Railway, exploration, 31, 35, 42, 66,
73> 77; r7° 1 proposed line under
Bay of Rio, 192 ; time-table to Entre
Rios, 151

Railways, Brazilian, Mr. Walter Ham-
mond’s letter on, 175
Railways: Dom Pedro II., 24, 15 1,
179, 268, 425; construction, 25,
26, 30; delays, 30, 31, 32, 42;
dust, 25 ; Mantiqueira range, 25 ;
Pullman cars, 24 ; scenery, 24, 43
Sao Joao del Rey (Oeste de Minas),
61, 269; objected to our route,
152, 271

Petropolis ( Principe do Grao Para),
213, 214, 423, 424
Leofioldina, 270
Minas and Rio , 270
Ouro Pretana, 28, 269
Corcovado, 205, 212, 424
Plano Inelinado (Sta. Theresa), 45,
225

Rainy season, commencement of, 89 ;
in camp, 130; effect on health, 128,
141 ; floods, 132 ; rivers unpassable,
124; roads unpassable, 136;
temperature of, 89. Vide Weather
Ransom, Mr. George, hospitality of,
85, 86, 90 ; his death, 85 note
Rattlesnakes, 28. Vide Snakes
Rebougas, Dr. Andre, 20, 25, 26 27,
30, 85, 1 18, 148, 150
Religion, article on, 275 ; the Eucha-
rist, 276 ; celibacy of the clergy, 276 ;
invocation and cult of saints, 277 ;
indulgences, 278 ; prohibition to read
the Bible, 278 ; Protestant zeal, 279 ;
the Atonement, 279 ; Formalism
and Rationalism, 279 ; plea for
charitable views, 280

INDEX.

441

Religion, a talk on, 164 ; New Testa-
ments distributed, 164 ; sermons, 63,
78, 160, 161, 169

Religious customs, 80, 158; reverence
at Mass, 64, 107, 121 ; reverence to
parents, 114; appeal to the senses,
160 ; baptisms at Queluz, 27 ; be-
haviour in church, 63 ; calvaries, 35,
80, 159; communicants, 153, 155,
166; Epiphany, 129; expressions of
natives, 83 ; grace at meals, 155 ;
Holy Week, preparation for, 154;
processions, 1 57, 1 59, 161, 164, 165,
166; work in, 16 1 ; visitors, 158, 166;
observing the hours, 68 ; oratories,
149, 158; procession, to avert small-
pox, 83 ; religious feeling of natives,
164 ; spiritual relationship, 162, 166 ;
sugar-plums in church, 160 ; the
Month of Mary, 169

Religious fasts and feasts : Ascension
Day, 175 ; Candlemas, 147 ; Christ-
mas Day, 127 ; Easter Day, 165 ;
Good Friday, 162, 163, 165 ; Lady
Day, 156 ; Lent, 153 ; Palm Sunday,
156 ; Passion Sunday, 155 ; SS. Peter
and Paul, 23, 197

Religious services : Mass , at Sao

Amaro, 78, 80 ; Entre Rios, 145,
146, 155, 156, 165, 169, 175; Olhos
d’Agua, 121 ; Queluz, 27 ; Alissa
Cantata, at Cajuru, 63 ; Mass of
the pre-Sanctified, 163 ; Requiem ,
105

Reptiles, note on, 365

Revolution, prospective, 210

Rice, 39, 60, 62, 129, 134, 138, 16 1 ,
163 ; cost of, 81

Rio de Janeiro, notes on : City Im-
provements Co., 226 ; fountains,
226, 237 ; Carioca, derivation of
name, 227 ; history of foundation
of the city, 228 ; Huguenot settle-
ment, 228 ; conquest by Portuguese,
230 ; aborigines, 229, 233 ; S. Sebas-
tian, 233 ; French expedition, 234 ;
arrival of Portuguese Royal Family,

234 ; tramways, 235 ; success of,
235 ; tramcars, 236 ; water supply,
237 ; Passeio Publico, 237 ; Jardim
do Campo da Acclama^o, 238 ; the
carnival, 239 ; lotteries, 239
Rio de Janeiro, toyvn of, 20; origin of
name, 232 ; aqueduct, 225, 226 ;
assassination, 189; athletic sports,
22 ; bad paving, 21 ; beggars, 45 ;
bull-fight, 192; butterflies, 23 ; chest
diseases, 188; Chinamen, 187;
custom house (Alfandega), 21 ; Dr.
Bento, 203 ; Dr. King, 203 ; Engi-
neers’ Club, 21 ; English church, 45 ;
fine houses, 182 ; fish, 187; Guinness’s
stout, 191 ; Hotel, Carson’s, 182,
dos Quatro Nacoes, 46 ; itinerant
vendors, 21; Larangeiras, 204;
Largo da Constitui^ao, 21 ; life at
Rio, 46, 182; Misericordia Hospital,
183; 7norros, 20, 183, 198; do

Castello, 197, 212 ; de Sta. Theresa,
205 ; mosquitoes, 23 ; narrow streets,
22 ; New London and Brazilian
Bank, 21 ; our office, view from, 210 ;
Passeio Publico, 21, 199, 237; ped-
lars, 187 ; Sta. Theresa, inclined
plane, 45, 225 ; table of sunrise and
sunset, 188; theatres, 46, 208;
tramways, 22, 183, 222, 235 ; tropi-
cal plants, 23, 190; tropical rain,
45 ; reservoirs, 224, 225, 237 ;

view from Nichteroy, 184 ; water-
works, 224 ; winter weather, 188
! Rios (rivers and streams) : Brumado,
150; Camapuao, 87, 90, 103, 121,
132; scenery, 90; Carioca, 226;
Cayuaba, 173 ; do Cortume, scenery,
90, 97 ; Sao Francisco, 50, 68, 70;
Para, 50, 53, 54, 55, 62, 66, 68, 149 ;
Parahyba do Sul, 180 ; Parahybtina,
180: Paraopeba, 50, 149; bridge,
178 ; de Peixe, 54, 73
Roads, bad, 41, 133
Road crosses. Vide Calvaries
Rocks, exposed, 79
Rola (ortolan), 84, 361

442

INDEX.

Roberts, Mr. Richard, my partner, 96,
99, 107, ill, 113, 1 14, 1 16, 127, 135,
141, 146, 148, 149

Ross, Mr. Leathom Earle, our chief,
107, 127 ; hospitality, 148, 172 note,
208

Rum, native. Vide Cachaja

S

Sao Amaro. Vide Villages
Sao Antonio dos Patos (city), 152, 270
Sao Caetano. Vide Villages
Sao Joao del Rey, exports to, 72. Vide
also Railways
St. Paul’s Rocks, 17
St. Vincent (Cape Verd Islands), 248 ;
quarantine, market-boats, diving
boys, fish, 248 ; cost of water, 249 ;
Sao Antonio, 249
Salt imported, 61
Sarsaparilla, 421

Scenery, 54, 90 ; Bay of Botafogo, 186 ;
Bay of Rio de Janeiro, 19, 213, 224 ;
Dom Pedro II. Railway, 24, 43 ;
Paraopeba, 33 ; Rio do Cortume,
97, 98

Scorpion, 82
Sea currents, 18
Seclusion of women, 38, 56
Self-indicating lead, 2
Sermons. Vide Religion
Serra dos Olhos d’Agua (village), 35,
41

Serras (Mountains) : — Serra do Cor-
tume, 50, 77, 170; description of
sketches, 41 1 ; da Mantiqueira, 25,
260 ; dos Orgaos. Vide Organ
Mountains. See also Mountain ranges,
260

Sexes separated in church, 80
Sharks, 15, 246
Sheep-cart, 56

Shells collected at Botafogo, 368
Shops in Minas Geraes, 33, 142, 149
Singing of emigrants, 14

Silver’s canteen, 77

Sketches of Serra do Cortume, de-
scription of, 41 1

Slavery, note on, 281 ; the law of free
birth, 281 ; Emancipation Fund, 281,
283, 284 ; cost of slaves, 281 ; law
of 1831, 281, 283; liberation of
slaves, 284 ; treatment of slaves,
285 ; results of Socialistic teaching,
285 ; abolitionism, 287 ; abolition in
Ceara, 287, 31 1 note; in Amazonas,
288 ; free labour, 288; Dantas Cabinet,
289; Emancipation Bill, 289; eulogy
in daily papers, 290; Dr. J. Nabuco,
290 ; dissolution of the Chambers,
291 ; Times leaders, 292, 294 ; Mr.
Walter Hammond, 292 ; New Parlia-
ment, the Emperor’s speech, 292,
295 ; Saraiva Cabinet, 293 ; his Bill,
294 ; Chevalier Correa de Souza,
294 ; number of slaves in Brazil, 294 ;
Dr. Ferreira Franga, 295 ; Cotegipe
Cabinet, 296 ; Emancipation Bill
passed, 296

Slaves, 58, 136; allotments given to,
1 1 6 ; gradual emancipation, 1 1 5, 1 1 6 ;
singing, 116 ; Sunday work of, 155
Small-pox, 78, 79, 83
Snails, note on, 368
Snakes, 31, 38, 70, 125 ; cure for bites,
28 ; dangerous species, 366 ; note
on, 365

Sounding at sea, off Land’s End, 2 ; off
Brazil, 18

Southern constellations, 95, 169
Southern latitudes colder than northern,

15

Spiders ( Arachnida ), note on, 406
Spinning, 137, 144

Spring-time, cold weather, 97, 108 ;
on the Campos, 95 ; flowers, 98 ;
vegetation, rapid growth, 108. Vide
Weather

Steam-steering apparatus, 6
Steamy heat, 122, 135
Study of an interior, 113
Suassuhy, 35, 37, 178

INDEX.

443

Sugar, 60, 417 ; cost of, 39
Sugar-cane, 25, 32, 51, 52, 59, 68, 134,
246, 417

Sugar Loaf (Pao d’Assucar), Rio de
Janeiro, 19, 20, 183, 184, 186, 200,
207, 213, 221, 224, 424
Sunrise on the Atlantic, 241
Sunset, a superb, 94
Swamps (brejos). Vide Marshes
Sydney, Capitao, 123

T

Tagus, the, 9
Tapir, 70

Telegraph and telephone wires (Rio de
Janeiro), 21 1

Telephone at Pernambuco, 247
Temperature, winter, 27 ; comparison
between Minas Geraes and Rio de
Janeiro, 44. Vide Weather
Teneriffe, Peak of, 12, 13, 250
Tent life, 34. Vide Camps, my
Tents, 76

Termites, 108, 426, note on, 401 ; nests
used for ovens, 148

Thanks to officers of S.S. Cotopaxi and
S.S. Valparaiso, 255
Theatres, 46, 208
Thorns, 74, 131, 132
Thunder, 77, ill, 333, 334, 335
Thunderstorms, 77, 95, 96, 119, 122,
138. Vide Meteorological Notes
Tijuca : Bamboos, 223 ; Bico do Papa-
gaio, 20, 223 ; diligence, 223 ; fatality
at, 223 ; visit of Lady Florence
Dixie, 223 ; range of mountains, 213,
223 ; Vista Chineza, 223 ; Whyte’s
Hotel, 222
Tile factory, 59

Timber for ornamental purposes, 91
Toad, horned, 367

Tobacco, 51, 60, 61, 134, 246, 417;
sold by the metre, 61 ; use by women
customary, 36
Tomatoes, 129, 134

Toucans, 51, 87, 90, no, 241, 360,

363

Toucinho (salt pork), 77, 85
Trade in the interior, 60
Tramways : Bahia, 242 ; Bordeaux, 5 ;
Lisbon, 10; Rio de Janeiro, 22, 183,
222 ; note on, 235
Travelling, delays in. Vide Delays
Tree ferns, 58, 97, 131, 414
Tropic of Cancer, 14. 250
Tropical forest, 34. Vide Virgin
forest

Tropical trees and flowers, 91 ; at Rio
de Janeiro, 23, 199
Tze-tze of Brazil. Vide Berno
Turbines for grinding maize, 137

U

Urubus (vultures), 71, 83, 85 ; notes
on, 361, 363

V

Valley scenery, 1 18. Vide Scenery
Valleys : Rio Camapuao, 90, 121 ; Rio
Cayuaba, 170, 173; Rio Para, 59,
170; Rio Parahybuna, 180; Rio
Paraopeba, 1 70

Value of the milreis, 201. Vide Finan-
cial Condition of Brazil
Valparaiso S.S. (P.S.N. Co.), 227, 241 ;
log of, 258 ; thanks to Capt. Friend,
255

Vegetable marrows, 129, 134
Vegetable meals, 59, 62
Vegetables and fruits, list of, 134
Vehicle, a curious, 158
Vicente de Azevedo Souza, Senhor,
81, 86, 89, 92, 96 ; stung by a wasp,
96

Vigo, bay and town, 8
Villages : Cajuru, 59, 70; priest, 63,
71 ; Camapuao, 125, 137 ; Capella
Nova, 53, 73 ; accommodation, 73 ;

444

INDEX.

Casa Grande, 75, ill ; Olhosd’Agua,
103 ; Sao Amaro, 35, 78, 80 ; sermon,
78 ; calvary, 80 ; Sao Caetano, 42 ;
Sao Gon9alo do Para, 65 ; Priest,
66, 69 ; Serra dos Olhos d’Agua, 35,
41 ; Suassuhy, 35, 37, 178
Virgin forest, 24, 25, 90, 13 1, 139,
170, 178, 185, 206; beauty of, 90;
in Spanish Honduras, 90
Visitors. Vide Native customs
Vista Chineza (Tijuca), 223

W

Wasps (marimbombos), 85, 122, 399
Waterfalls, 66, 90, 219
Water-mill (monjolo), 137
Waterworks, at Lisbon, 1 1 ; at Rio de
Janeiro, 224, 225, 237
Weather. Vide Meteorological notes,
322; cold, 174, 176; fine, end of
spring, 84; early summer, 120;
summer, 142 ; winter, 34 ; tempera-
ture, 27 ; cloudless days, 58. Vide
Spring-time
Wedding-party, 73

Weights and measures, note on, 299 ;

long and square measures, 299 ;
cubic and wine measures, avoirdu-
pois, weights for diamonds and
gold, 300
Wild Indians, 70
Will-o’-the-wisp, 124
Wine-shops, 53, 63, 65
Wolf (lobo or Aguara), visit to our
camp, 86 ; habits of, 350 ; deriva-
tion of Indian name, 351 ; wolf-fruit
tree, 351

Women : Good-looking coloured girl,
56 ; women kept secluded in Minas
Geraes, 38, 56

Woodpeckers (birds), 81, 360
Woods (ornamental), 80, 91
Woollen clothing, 177
Workmen, my, 77, 78, 79, 81, no,
137

Y

Yams, 64, 68, 73, 84, 129, 134 ; size
of, 129

Yellow fever (Rio de Janeiro), 187,
201 ; treatment, 202 ; vaccination,
203

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.

PROVINCES or

MIKAS- CIS Rill S

AND

KSHEHO SA3S11©

Compiled from the

UpieU'Hi

?ereira?

most modem maps , and in. accordance wiiii
Official Statistics and boundaries
1882

Natural Scale , 1 : 2.977.000

pEOCRAPHICAL MILES

SMtaiara*by

Tnmhi

> Tcnnhnril.

Ccnupiista

ENGLISH MILES

Eunta. Bridge
Ril’orto - Port

S ^Santo , Santo , Sda -Sauce
N.S. ,Nas.<a Senhora. - OurLady
I., Win -Island
- t - Railway, open,

. in progress
=.:, ... „ projected.

Illll/llf, '1

- 6,0
, i^ '^^dasTVombas t

■

/S I/on

■LPn isagendj Alegre • ~
S. ] 'rnnanll JaJnba.

n jfartmhas t

I SiSebuStiio ih i

JrSalto (Imndr,

doTbniaZ,

MARAS*

Prjulo.

JhiobcL

tqoSiovdl

negraKeg
Tapcra, /

Rio Mansiy

'cequice^l^.

S.Domingas

GOUVEA?

Rndaihesi

Boa,Vlsuic

' this Velhn:

C^J*do'"

-py&mS

J Getpirtibn

OuetLf-

Maria ^
(Aat°Ducr.[

tbariio

.Sap tab

3?/

ESJS&

ii MinfJrl/t

S.jssf-

/Z^W,r(o{

Desemb )\ne

forquM

CeucJaPi

■ ii'.un ■"</<■ S, aU.es 8

fjaarahyp*

:toria

.[•unto Santo

oij S.JosA,

Dares do Ati A

1 W

TonoBnph

\ da (Sana

Ran II if j

JPIRANC

I ‘ , 1 1 . 1 1 . » |». n- V

fS.Seb’aBt®
^doFaTHiso
I ,/flC

uU/liriaij

S.Gem

'UrajlP'

BeagWJite

putump^

rth ni

Cj9u%Jo&>v

Malta Groat

&> i

f/grvrur.i

>ajniaiLi«

TRES\

ILPaih

^S.JOAO IM

l';<r

ndiyhn

I1ARRA

SI\MP0JS C|

AYDlUI/

^aracaj..

NOVA

PBIBURTiOi

iuafisu

PETROPOLLS-

C/iniJnJiji

•MACK

R‘ (bin.

. .. ■ pm

I Eubaraln

icmtRouY

<YlV'

►IORENA

JANE!

EM Weller, lith

s

n

A,

A

y

1 1

(22 1|

London ; Regan fitul , Trenrh, <!• Cn

Map of' tie
and Upper Valleys

Watersheds

•<ur a. doLombany
( * • <ia J>eicce\~

^ PITANGUT "

deMirnjiAa.

of the rivers

■AND DAS VELHAS

to oui* Surveys '

1 Corrected

•'•Antonio •

CuLaba.

Narnrai Scale , 1 : 90&000 .

^orroVcrrntl

>oxos

Matlxeus Leme

[S^ntoran doff Acuna.

,;°Binax Si

HA Vi

Palmiui i

ranptibn.

-Esjtixito Santo

[2 Rio dasPedros?
p. Gvj\fala do Monti- .

£ranhii

[a^aBranca

^ Rio Mans

Ermida, ^
CtiTUenila, jdiff

>1ARUNN/

BOMFTM®*

5Drfthtnl

\BnaM(nrc?

»nnhase

Ouro Branco

Salto GrcuidiA

usS ujc*!}

ST"Ani.ini

S.Frar

I’a/i/o

J IS,
^THRl.'

jo orruxi

iraXDAID'

s'.a Bitado o
RioMaixuS

Jf/issaiptwha

| S.JOAO^

^\Rlo dasMort&s

^S.JOSED’fXREI

BoxnJesus

dosftrdoes

Santos

^barbXcexa

iMaccdo

ofaJjnizaL

WRAS

~ Imj^miAeWestofKodeJanmM r_

London.-, Ergon-Fa.,! . Trmrh S- Co

A LIST OF

KEG AN PAUL , TRENCH , 6* CO. ’S
PUB LIC A TIONS.

1 Paternoster Square,

London.

A LIST OF

KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO.’S
PUBLICATIONS.

General Literature

Parchment Library

Pulpit Commentary

International Scientific Series

CONTENTS.

page

2

16

18

25

Military Works
Poetry

Works of Fiction
Books for the Young

page

27

28

31

32

A. K. H B. — From A Quiet Place. A New Volume of Sermons.

Crown 8vo.

AINSWORTH { F. W.)— Personal Narrative of the Euphrates
Expedition. 2 vols. 8vo. 301-.

ALEXANDER ( William, D.D., Bishop of Derry ) — The Great Ques-
tion, and other Sermons, Crown 8vo. 6s.

ALLIES { T. W.) M.A. — Per Crucem ad Lucem. The Result of a

Life. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. 251-.

A Life’s Decision. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

AMHERST {Rev. W. J.) — The History of Catholic Emancipation
and the Progress of the Catholic Church in the British Isles
(chiefy in England) from 1771-1820. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. 243-.

AMOS {Prof. Sheldon) — The History and Principles of the Civil
Law of Rome. Demy 8vo. 1 6s.

ARISTOTLE — The Nicomachean Ethics of Aristotle. Translated
by F. H. Peters, M.A. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

A USER TIN {J. J.) — A Flight to Mexico. With 7 full-page Illus-
trations and a Railway Map of Mexico. Crown 8vo. Js. 6d.

Six Months in Cape Colony and Natal. With Illustrations and
Map. Crown 8vo. 6s.

A Fight with Distances. With 8 Illustrations and 2 Maps. Crown

8vo. 7 r. 6d.

Aucassin and Nicolette. Edited in Old French and rendered in
Modern English by F. W. Bourdillon. Fcap. 8vo. Js. 6d.

AUCHMUTY {A. C.) — Dives and Pauper, and other Sermons. Crown

8vo. 33. 6 d.

AZARIAS {Brother) — Aristotle and the Christian Church. Small

crown 8vo. 33. 6 d.

BADGER {George Percy) D.C.L. — -An English-Arabic Lexicon. In

which the equivalents for English Words and Idiomatic Sentences are rendered
into literary and colloquial Arabic. Royal 4to. 80s.

Kegan Paul, Trench, & Co.’s Publications.

3

BAGEHOT { Walter ) — The English Constitution. Fifth Edition.

Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

Lombard Street. A Description of the Money Market. Ninth
Edition. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 at

Essays on Parliamentary Reform. Crown 8vo. 5^.

Some Articles on the Depreciation of Silver, and Topics

CONNECTED WITH it. Demy 8vo. 5-r.

BAGOT {Alan) C.E. — Accidents in Mines : Their Causes and Preven-
tion. Crown 8vo. 6s.

The Principles of Colliery Ventilation. Second Edition,

greatly enlarged, crown 8vo. 5.J.

The Principles of Civil Engineering in Estate Management.

Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

BAIRD {Henry M.) — The Huguenots and Henry of Navarre.
2 vols. 8vo. With Maps. 241.

BALDWIN {Capt. J. H.) — The Large and Small Game of Bengal
and the North-Western Provinces of India. With 20 Illustra-
tions. New and Cheaper Edition. Small 4to. ior. 6 d.

B ALLIN {Ada S. and F. L.) — A Hebrew Grammar. With Exercises

selected from the Bible. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

BALL {John, F.R.S. ) — Notes of a Naturalist in South America.

Crown 8vo. 8s. 6 d.

BARCLAY {Edgar) — Mountain Life in Algeria. Crown 4to„

With numerous Illustrations by Photogravure. 16s.

BASU {K. F.) M.A. — Students’ Mathematical Companion. Con-
taining problems in Arithmetic, Algebra, Geometry, and Mensuration, for
Students of the Indian Universities. Crown 8vo. 6s.

BA UR {. Ferdinand) Dr. Ph., Professor in Maulbronn. — A Philological
Introduction to Greek and Latin for Students. Translated and
adapted from the German by C. Kegan Paul, M.A., and the Rev. E. D.
Stone, M.A. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6r.

BENN {Alfred W.) — The Greek Philosophers. 2 vols. Demy8vo. 281-.

BENSON {A. C.) — William Laud, sometime Archbishop of Can-
terbury. A Study. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 6s.

BIBLE FOLK-LORE. — A Study in Comparative Mythology. Large

crown 8vo. 10 s. 6 d.

BIRD {Charles) F.G.S. — Higher Education in Germany and Eng-
land : Being a Brief Practical Account of the Organisation and Curriculum
of the German Higher Schools. With Critical Remarks and Suggestions with
reference to those of England. Small crown 8vo. 2s. 6 d.

Birth and Growth of Religion. A Book for Workers. Crown 8vo.

cloth, 2s. ; paper covers, ir.

BLACKBURN {Mrs. Hugh) — Bible Beasts and Birds. A New Edi-
tion of ‘Illustrations of Scripture by an Animal Painter.’ With Twenty-two
Plates, Photographed from the Originals, and Printed in Platinotype. 4to.
cloth extra, gilt edges, 42s.

4

A List of

BLOOMFIELD { The Lady) — Reminiscences of Court and Diplo-
matic Life. New and Cheaper Edition. With Frontispiece. Crown 8vo. 6s.

BLUNT ( The Ven. Archdeacon) — The Divine Patriot, and other

Sermons, Preached in Scarborough and in Cannes. Crown 8vo. 4 s. 6 d.

BLUNT { Wilfrid S.) — The Future of Islam. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Ideas about India. Crown 8vo. cloth, 6s.

BOSANQUET { Bernard ) — Knowledge and Reality. A Criticism of
Mr. F. H. Bradley’s ‘ Principles of Logic.’ Crown 8vo. gs.

BOUVERIE-PUSEY (S. E. B.) — Permanence and Evolution. An

Inquiry into the supposed Mutability of Animal Types. Crown 8vo. 5 s.

BOWEN (LL. C.) M.A. — Studies in English, for the use of Modem

Schools. 7th Thousand. Small crown 8vo. is. 6 d.

English Grammar for Beginners. Fcp. 8vo. it.

Simple English Poems. English Literature for Junior Classes. In
Four Parts. Parts I., II., and III. 6d. each; Part IV. is. ; complete, 31.

BRADLE Y (F IL.) — The Principles of Logic. Demy 8vo. 1 6s.

BRADSHAW {Henry) — Memoir. By G. W. Prothero. 8vo. i6t.

BRIDGETT {Rev. T. A1.)— History of the Holy Eucharist in
Great Britain. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. i8a

BROOKE {Rev. S. A.) — Life and Letters of the late Rev. F. W.
Robertson, M. A. Edited by.

I. Uniform with Robertson’s Sermons. 2 vols. With Steel Portrait, "]s. 6d.

II. Library Edition. 8vo. With Portrait, 12s.

III. A Popular Edition. In 1 vol. 8vo. 6s.

The Fight of Faith. Sermons preached on various occasions.

Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

The Spirit of the Christian Life. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 5.1.
Theology in the English Poets. — Cowper, Coleridge, Wordsworth,
and Bums. Sixth Edition. Post 8vo. 5r.

Christ in Modern Life. Sixteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5L
Sermons. First Series. Thirteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5 a
Sermons. Second Series. Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo. $s.
BROWN {Horatio F.) — Life on the Lagoons. With two Illustrations

and a Map. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Venetian Studies. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

BROWN {Rev. /. Baldwin) B.A. — The Higher Life; its Reality,

Experience, and Destiny. Seventh Edition. Crown 8vo. 5-r.

Doctrine of Annihilation in the Light of the Gospel of
Love. Five Discourses. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2 s. 6 d.

The Christian Policy of Life. A Book for Young Men of
Business. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 31. 6 d.

BURDETT {Henry C.) — Help in Sickness : Where to Go and What

to Do. Crown 8vo. is. 6d.

Helps to Health : The Habitation, The Nursery, The Schoolroom,
and The Person. With a Chapter on Pleasure and Health Resorts. Crown
8vo. is. 6d.

Kegan Paul , Trench, & Co.'s Publications.

5

BURKE { Oliver J.) — South Isles of Aran (County Galway).

Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. .

BURKE {The late Very Rev. T. N.) — His Life. By W. J. Fitzpatrick.

2 vols. With Portrait. Demy 8vo. 30a

BURTON {Mrs. Richard) — The Inner Life of Syria, Palestine, and
the Holy Land. Post 8vo. 6s.

CANDLER {C.) — The Prevention of Consumption. A Mode of

Prevention founded on a New Theory of the Nature of the Tubercle-Bacillus.
Demy 8vo. ioa 6 d.

Carlyle and the Open Secret of His Life. By Henry Larkin.

Demy 8vo. 14A

CARPENTER { IV B.) LL.D., M.D. , F.R.S., &c. — The Principles
of Mental Physiology. With their Applications to the Training and
Discipline of the Mind, and the Study of its Morbid Conditions. Illustrated.
Sixth Edition. 8vo. 12s.

Nature and Man : Essays, Scientific and Philosophical. With
Memoir of the Author and Portrait. Large crown 8vo. 8a 6 d.

Catholic Dictionary — Containing some account of the Doctrine,
Discipline, Rites, Ceremonies, Councils, and Religious Orders of the Catholic
Church. By William E. Addis and Thomas Arnold, M.A. Third
Edition, demy 8vo. 21 s.

CHEYNE {Rev. Canon, M.A., D.D., Edin.) — Job and Solomon; or,

the Wisdom of the Old Testament. Demy 8vo. 12 s. 6 d.

The Prophecies of Isaiah. Translated with Critical Notes and

Dissertations. 2 vols. Fourth Edition. Demy 8vo. 25A

The Book of Psalms ; or, The Praises of Israel. A New

Translation, with Commentary. Demy 8vo. 16 s.

Churgress, The. By The Prig. Fcp. 8vo. y. 6d.

CLAIRA UT — Elements of Geometry. Translated by Dr. Kaines..
With 145 Figures. Crown 8vo. 4 s. 6 d.

CLAPPERTON {Jane Hume) — Scientific Meliorism and the Evo-
lution of Happiness. Large crown 8vo. 8a 6 d.

CLODD {. Edward) F.R.A.S. — The Childhood of the World : a

Simple Account of Man in Early Times. Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. 3A
A Special Edition for Schools, ia

The Childhood of Religions. Including a Simple Account ol tne

Birth and Growth of Myths and Legends. Eighth Thousand. Crown 8vo. 5a
A Special Edition for Schools, is. 6 d.

Jesus of Nazareth. With a brief sketch of Jewish History to the
Time of His Birth. Second Edition. Small crown 8vo. 6a

COGHLAN {J Cole ) D.D. — The Modern Pharisee, and other
Sermons. Edited by the Very Rev. H. H. Dickinson, D.D., Dean of
Chapel Royal, Dublin. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 7a 6 d.

COLERIDGE {Sara) — Memoir and Letters of Sara Coleridge.
Edited by her Daughter. With Index. Cheap Edition. With one Portrait.
7a 6 d.

COLERIDGE {The Hon. Stephen) — Demetrius. Crown 8vo. y.

6

A List of

COOPER ( James Fenimore ) — Life. By T. R. Loundsbury. With

Portrait. Crown 8vo. 5r.

CORY { William) — A Guide to Modern English History. Part I. —
MDCCCXV.-MDCCCXXX. Demy 8vo. gs. Part II.— MDCCCXXX.-
MDCCCXXXV. ISJ.

COTTERILL {El. B.) — An Introduction to the Study of Poetry.

Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

COTTON {H. J. Si) — New India, or India in Transition. Third

Edition. Crown 8vo. 45-. 6 d. Popular Edition, paper covers, is.

COWIE {Right Rev. W. G.) — Our Last Year in New Zealand. 1887.

Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

COX {Rev. Sir George W.) M.A., Bart. — The Mythology of the Aryan
Nations. New Edition. Demy 8vo. 161.

Tales of Ancient Greece. New Edition. Small crown 8vo. 6s.

A Manual of Mythology in the form of Question and Answer.

New Edition. Fcp. 8vo. 31.

An Introduction to the Science of Comparative Mythology
and Folk-Lore. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. ys . 6 d.

COX {Rev. Sir G. W.) M.A., Bart., and JONES {Eustace Hinton) —
Popular Romances of the Middle Ages. Third Edition, in 1 vol.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

COX {Rev. Samuel ) D.D. — A Commentary on the Book of Job. With

a Translation. Second Edition. Demy 8vo. I5r.

Salvator Mundi ; or, Is Christ the Saviour of all Men ? Eleventh
Edition. Crown 8vo. 2 s. 6 d.

The Larger Hope : a Sequel to ‘ Salvator Mundi.’ Second Edi-
tion. i6mo. ir.

The Genesis of Evil, and other Sermons, mainly expository.
Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Balaam : An Exposition and a Study. Crown 8vo. 51.

Miracles. An Argument and a Challenge. Crown 8vo. 2 s. 6 d.

CRA VEN (Mrs.) — A Year’s Meditations. Crown 8vo. 6s.

CRA WFURD {Oswald) — Portugal, Old and New. With Illustrations

and Maps. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

CRUISE (F. R.) ME. — Thomas a Kempis. Notes of a Visit to the

Scenes in which his Life was spent, with some Account of the Examination of
his Relics. Demy 8vo. Illustrated. 12s.

CUNNINGHAM (W., B.D .) — Politics and Economics : An Essay

on the Nature of the Principles of Political Economy, together with a Survey
of Recent Legislation. Crown 8vo. 5r.

DARMESTETER (Arsene) — The Life of Words as the Symbols
of Ideas. Crown 8vo. 4 s. 6d.

DA VIDSON {Rev. Samuel) D.D., LL.D. — Canon of the Bible : Its

Formation, History, and Fluctuations. Third and revised Edition. Small
crown 8vo. 5a

The Doctrine of Last Things, contained in the New Testament,
compared with the Notions of the Jews and the Statements of Church Creeds.
Small crown 8vo. 3-r. 6 d.

Kegan Paid, Trench , & Co.'s Ptiblications.

7

DAWSON (Geo.) M.A. — Prayers, with a Discourse on Prayer.

Edited by his Wife. First Series. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo.
3-f. 6d.

Prayers, with a Discourse on Prayer. Edited by George St.

Clair. Second Series. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Sermons on Disputed Points and Special Occasions. Edited by

his Wife. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Sermons on Daily Life and Duty. Edited by his Wife. Fifth
Edition. Crown 8vo. 3.1. 6 d.

The Authentic Gospel, and other Sermons. Edited by George
St. Clair. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Every-day Counsels. Edited by George St. Clair, F.G.S. Crown

8vo. 6s.

Biographical Lectures. Edited by George St. Clair, F.G.S.

Second Edition. Large crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.
hakespeare, and other Lectures. Edited by George St. Clair,
F.G.S. Large crown 8vo. Js. 6d.

DE BURY (Richard) — The Philobiblon. Translated and Edited by
Ernest C. Thomas.

DE JONCOURT (Madame Marie) — Wholesome Cookery. Fourth
Edition. Crown 8vo. cloth, I*. 6 d. ; paper covers, is.

DENT (H. C.) — A Year in Brazil. With Notes on Religion, Meteor-
ology, Natural History, &c. Maps and Illustrations, Demy 8vo. i8j.

Doctor Faust. The Old German Puppet Play, turned into English,
with Introduction, etc., by T. C. H. Hedderwick. Large post 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

D O WDEN (Edward) LL.D. — Shakspere : a Critical Study of his Mind
and Art. Eighth Edition. Post 8vo. 12 s.

Studies in Literature, 1789-1877. Fourth Edition. Post 8vo. 6t.
Transcripts and Studies. Post 8vo. 12 s.

DRUMMOND (Thomas) — Life. By R. Barry O’Brien. 8vo. 144.
Dulce Domum. Fcp. 8vo. 5J.

DU MONCEL (Count) — The Telephone, the Microphone, and the
Phonograph. With 74 Illustrations. Third Edition. Small crown 8vo. 5^.
DUNN (H. Percy) F.R. C.S. — Infant Health. The Physiology and
Hygiene of Early Life. Crown 8vo. 3^. 6 d.

DURUY ( Victor)— History of Rome and the Roman People,

Edited by Professor Mahaffy, with nearly 3,000 Illustrations. 4to. 6 Vols,
in 12 Parts, 301-. each volume.

Education Library. Edited by Sir Philip Magnus : —

Industrial Education. By Sir Philip Magnus.

An Introduction to the History of Educational Theories.

By Oscar Browning, M.A. Second Edition. 3.1. 6d.

Old Greek Education. By the Rev. Prof. Mahaffy, M.A. Second
Edition. 31-. 6 d.

School Management ; including a General View of the Work of
Education. By Joseph Landon. Sixth Edition. 6s.

EDWARDES (Major-General Sir Herbert B.) — Memorials of his
Life. By his Wife, With Portrait and Illustrations. 2 vols. 8vo. 36A

8

A List of

Eighteenth Century Essays. Selected and Edited by Austin Dobson.
Fcp. 8 vo. Ij. 6d.

ELSDALE {Henry) — Studies in Tennyson’s Idylls. Crown 8vo. 5 s.
EMERSON'S {Ralph Waldo ) Life. By Oliver Wendell Holmes.

[English Copyright Edition.] With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 6s.

ERANUS. A Collection of Exercises in the Alcaic and Sapphic

Metres. Edited by F. W. Cornish, Assistant Master at Eton. Second
Edition. Crown 8vo. is.

Five o’Clock Tea. Containing Receipts for Cakes of every description,
Savoury Sandwiches, Cooling Drinks, &c. Fcp. 8vo. is. 6 d., or is. sewed.

FLINN {D. Edgar ) — Ireland: its Health Resorts and Watering-Places.

With Frontispiece and Maps. Demy 8vo. 5s.

FORBES { Bishop ) — A Memoir, by the Rev. Donald J. Mackey.

Portrait and Map. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

FORDYCE {John ) — The New Social Order. Crown 8vo. 31-. 6d.

FOTHERINGHAM {James) — Studies in the Poetry of Robert
Browning. Crown 8vo. 6s.

FRANKLIN {Benjamin) — As a Man of Letters. By J. B. McMaster.

Crown 8vo. 51-.

From World to Cloister; or, My Novitiate. By Bernard. Crown
8vo. 5.?.

GARDINER {Samuel R.) and J. BASS MULLINGER, M.A.—
Introduction to the Study of English History Second Edition.
Large crown 8vo. 9 s.

GEORGE {Henry) — Progress and Poverty : an Inquiry into the

Causes of Industrial Depressions, and of Increase of Want with Increase of
Wealth. The Remedy. Library Edition. Post 8vo. 7 s. 6d. Cabinet Edi-
tion, crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.

Social Problems. Crown 8vo. 55.

Protection, or Free Trade. An Examination of the Tariff
Question, with especial regard to the Interests of Labour. Second Edition.
Crown 8vo. Sr.

*#* Also Cheap Editions of each of the above, limp cloth, ir. 6 d. ; paper covers, is.
GILBERT {Mrs.) — Autobiography, and other Memorials. Edited by
Josiah Gilbert. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. "js. 6d.

GILLMORE {Col. Parker ) — Days and Nights by the Desert. With

numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo. lor. 6d.

GLANVILL {Joseph)— Scepsis Scientifica ; or, Confest Ignorance, th
Way to Science ; in an Essay of the Vanity of Dogmatising and Confiden
Opinion. Edited, with Introductory Essay, by John Owen. Elzevir 8vo.
printed on hand-made paper, 6s.

GLASS {Henry Alex.) — The Story of the Psalters. Crown 8vo. 55.
Glossary of Terms and Phrases. Edited by the Rev. H. Percy Smith

and others. Medium 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

GLOVER {F.) M.A. — Exempla Latina. A First Construing Book, with

Short Notes, Lexicon, and an Introduction to the Analysis of Sentences. Second
Edition. Fcp. 8vo. is.

GOODENOUGH {Commodore J. G.) — Memoir of, with Extracts from
his Letters and Journals. Edited by his Widow. With Steel Engraved
Portrait. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 51-.

Kegan Paul ' Trench , & Co.’s Publications.

9

GORDON ( Major-Gen . C. G.) — His Journals at Kartoum. Printed
from the Original MS. With Introduction and Notes by A Egmont Hake.
Portrait, 2 Maps, and 30 Illustrations. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. 21 s. Also a
Cheap Edition in 1 vol., 6s.

Gordon’s (General) Last Journal. A Facsimile of the last

Journal received in England from General Gordon. Reproduced by Photo-
lithography. Imperial 4to. £3. 3 s.

Events in his Life. From the Day of his Birth to the Day of his
Death. By Sir H. W. Gordon. With Maps and Illustrations. Demy 8vo.
7 s. 6 d.

GOSSE ( Edmund ) — Seventeenth Century Studies. A Contri-
bution to the History of English Poetry. Demy 8vo. 10 s. 6 d.

GOULD (Rev. S. Baring) M.A. — Germany, Present and Past. New

and Cheaper Edition. Large crown 8vo. "js. 6d.

The Vicar of Morwenstow : a Life of Robert Stephen Hawker,
M.A. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 51-.

GO WAN (Major Walter E.) — A. Ivanoff’s Russian Grammar.
( 1 6th Edition). Translated, enlarged, and arranged for use of Students of the
Russian Language. Demy 8vo. 6s.

GOWER (Lord Ronald) — My Reminiscences. Limp Parchment, An-
tique, with Etched Portrait, ior. 6d.

Bric-a-Brac. Being some Photoprints illustrating Art objects at
Gower Lodge, Windsor. Super royal 8vo. 15.?. ; Persian leather, 21s.

Last Days of Mary Antoinette. An Historical Sketch. With
Portrait and Facsimiles. Fcp. 4to. ior. 6d.

Notes of a Tour from Brindisi to Yokohama, 1883-1884. Fcp.

8vo. 2 s. 6 d.

GRAHAM ( William) M.A. — The Creed of Science, Religious, Moral,
and Social. Second Edition, revised. Crown 8vo. 6s.

The Social Problem in its Economic, Moral, and Political
Aspects. Demy 8vo. 14s.

GRLMLEY (Rev. H. N.) M.A. — Tremadoc Sermons, chiefly on the
Spiritual Body, the Unseen World, and the Divine Humanity.
Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

The Temple of Humanity, and other Sermons. Crown 8vo. 6s.
GURNEY (Edmund) — Tertium Quid: Chapters on various Disputed

Questions. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 12 s.

HADDON (Caroline) — The Larger Life, Studies in Hinton’s
Ethics. Crown 8vo. 5r.

HAECKEL (Prof. Ernst) — The History of Creation. Translation
revised by Professor E. Ray Lankester, M.A., F.R.S. With Coloured Plates
and Genealogical Trees of the various groups of both plants and animals.
2 vols. Third Edition. Post 8vo. 32.L

The History of the Evolution of Man. With numerous Illustra-
tions. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 32 s.

A Visit to Ceylon. Post 8vo. 7 r. 6 d.

Freedom in Science and Teaching. With a Prefatory Note by
T. H. Huxley, F.R.S. Crown 8vo. $s.

IO

A List of

HALCOMBE {J. J.) — Gospel Difficulties due to a Displaced

Section of St. Luke. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Hamilton, Memoirs of Arthur, B.A., of Trinity College, Cambridge.

Crown 8vo. 6s.

Handbook of Home Rule, being Articles on the Irish Question by
Various Writers. Edited by James Bryce, M.P. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. ir. sewed, or ir. 6 d. cloth.

HART {Rev. J. W. T.) — Autobiography of Judas Iscariot. A Char-
acter-Study. Crown 8vo. 31. 6 d.

HA WEIS {Rev. H. R.) M.A. — Current Coin. Materialism — The
Devil — Crime — Drunkenness — Pauperism — Emotion — Recreation — The
Sabbath. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 51-.

. Arrows in the Air. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5 s.

Speech in Season. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5^

Thoughts for the Times. Fourteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 51.
Unsectarian Family Prayers. New Edition. Fcp. 8vo. it. 6 d.
HAWTHORNE (. Nathaniel ) — Works. Complete in 12 vols. Large

post 8 vo. each vol. "js. 6 d.

Vol. I. Twice-Told Tales.

II. Mosses from an Old Manse.

III. The House of the Seven Gables, and The Snow Image.

IV. The Wonder Book, Tanglewood Tales, and Grandfather’s Chair.

V. The Scarlet Letter, and The Blithedale Romance.

VI. The Marble Faun. (Transformation.)

VII. & VIII. Our Old Home, and English Note-Books.

IX. American Note-Books.

X. French and Italian Note-Books.

XI. Septimius Felton, The Dolliver Romance, Fanshawe, and,
in an appendix, The Ancestral Footstep.

XII. Tales and Essays, and other Papers, with a Biographical
Sketch of Hawthorne.

HEATH {Francis George) — Autumnal Leaves. Third and Cheaper

Edition. Large crown 8vo. 6s.

Sylvan Winter. With 70 Illustrations. Large crown 8vo. 14 s.
HEGEL — The Introduction to Hegel’s Philosophy of Fine Art.

Translated from the German, with Notes and Prefatory Essay, by Bernard
Bosanquet, M.A. Crown 8vo. 5.1.

HEIDENHA1N {Rudolph) ML). — PIypnotism • or Animal Magnetism.

With Preface by G. J. Romanes, F.R.S. Second Edition. Small crown
8vo. is. 6d.

HENNESSY {Sir John Pope) — Ralegh in Ireland, with his Letters
on Irish Affairs and some Contemporary Documents. Large crown
8vo. printed on hand-made paper, parchment, ioj. 6d.

HENR Y {Philip) — Diaries and Letters. Edited by Matthew Henry

Lee, M.A. Large crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

HLNTON {/.) — The Mystery of Pain. New Edition. Fcp. 8vo. it.
Life and Letters. With an Introduction by Sir W. W. Gull,
Bart., and Portrait engraved on Steel by C. H. Jeens. Fifth Edition.
Crown 8vo. 8s. 6 d.

Kegan Paul, Trench, & Cols Publications.

1 1

HINTON (?.)— continued.

Philosophy and Religion. Selections from the MSS. of the late
James Hinton. Edited by Caroline Haddon. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. 5-f.

The Law Breaker and The Coming of the Law. Edited by
Margaret Hinton. Crown 8vo. 6s.

HOOPER {Mary) — Little Dinners : How to Serve them with
Elegance and Economy. Twentieth Edition. Crown 8vo. is. 6d.
Cookery for Invalids, Persons of Delicate Digestion, and
Children. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo. is. 6 d.

Every-Day Meals. Being Economical and Wholesome Recipes
for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Supper. Seventh Edition. Crown 8vo. is. 6 d.

HOPKINS {Ellice) — Work amongst Working Men. Fifth Edition.

Crown 8vo. 3$. 6 d.

HORNADAY {W. T.) — Two Years in a Jungle. With Illustrations.

Demy 8vo. 21 s.

HOSPITALIER {E.) — The Modern Applications of Electricity.

Translated and Enlarged by JULIUS Maier, Ph.D. 2 vols. Second Edition,
revised, with many additions and numerous Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 12 s. 6d.
each volume.

Vol. I. — Electric Generators, Electric Light.

II. — Telephone : Various Applications : Electrical Transmission of Energy.
HOWARD {Robert) M.A.— The Church of England and other
Religious Communions. A Course of Lectures delivered in the Parish
Church of Clapham. Crown 8vo. "Js. 6 d.

How to Make a Saint ; or, The Process of Canonisation in the Church
of England. By The Prig. Fcp. 8vo. 3L 6d.

HYNDMAN {H. M.) — The Historical Basis of Socialism in
England. Large crown 8vo. 8r. 6 d.

IM THURN {Everard F.) — Among the Indians of Guiana. Being

Sketches, chiefly Anthropologic, from the Interior of British Guiana. With
53 Illustrations and a Map. Demy 8vo. l8r.

Ixora : A Mystery. Crown 8vo. 65.

JACCOUD {Prof. S.) — The Curability and Treatment of Pulmo-
nary Phthisis. Translated and Edited by M. Lubbock, M.D. 8vo. 15.?.

Jaunt in a Junk : A Ten Days’ Cruise in Indian Seas. Large crown
8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

JENKINS {£.) and RA YMOND {/.) — The Architect’s Legal

Handbook. Third Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo. 6s.

JENKINS {Rev. Canon R. C.) — Heraldry : English and Foreign. With

a Dictionary of Heraldic Terms and 156 Illustrations. Small crown 8vo. 3-r. 6 d.

Story of the Caraffa. Small crown 8vo. 35. 6d.

JEROME {Saint) — Life, by Mrs. Charles Martin. Large cr. 8vo. 6s.

JOEL {Li) — A Consul’s Manual and Shipowner’s and Shipmaster’s
Practical Guide in their Transactions Abroad. With Definitions of
Nautical, Mercantile, and Legal Terms ; a Glossary of Mercantile Terms in
English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish ; Tables of the Money, Weights,
and Measures of the Principal Commercial Nations and their Equivalents in
British Standards ; and Forms of Consular and Notarial Acts. Demy 8vo. 12 s.

JORDAN {Furneaux) F.R.C.S. — Anatomy and Physiology in Cha-
racter. Crown 8vo. 5r.

12

A List of

KA UFMANN {Rev. AT.) AT. A. — Socialism : its Nature, its Dangers, and

its Remedies considered. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

Utopias ; or, Schemes of Social Improvement, from Sir Thomas More

to Karl Marx. Crown 8vo. 5 s.

Christian Socialism. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6 d.

KA Y {David) — -Education and Educators. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

Memory : What it is, and how to improve it. Crown 8vo. 6s.

KAY (Joseph ) — Free Trade in Land. Edited by his Widow. With
Preface by the Right Hon. John Bright, M.P. Seventh Edition. Crown
8vo. 5 .s'.

*** Also a cheaper edition, without the Appendix, but with a Review of Recent
Changes in the Land Laws of England, by the Right Hon. G. Osborne
Morgan, Q.C., M.P. Cloth, is. 6 d. ; Paper covers, ij.

KELKE { W. H. H.) — An Epitome of English Grammar for the
Use of Students. Adapted to the London Matriculation Course and Simi-
lar Examinations. Crown 8vo. 4^. 6 d.

KEATPIS ( Thomas a) — Of the Imitation of Christ. Parchment

Library Edition, parchment or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, Js. 6 d. The Red Line
Edition, fcp. 8vo. cloth extra, 2 s. 6 d. The Cabinet Edition, small 8vo.
cloth limp, is. ; or cloth boards, red edges, is. 6 d. The Miniature Edition,
32mo. cloth limp, Is. ; or with red lines, is. 6 d.

*** All the above Editions may be had in various extra bindings.

KENNARD {Rev. H. B.) — Manual of Confirmation, i6mo. cloth,

ir. Sewed, 3 d.

KENDALL {Henry) — The Kinship of Men : Genealogy viewed as a
Science. Crown 8vo. 5.?.

KETLLEWELL {Rev. S.) AT. A. — Thomas a Kempis and the
Brothers of Common Life. 2 vols. With Frontispieces. Demy 8vo.
30 s.

Also an Abridged Edition in 1 vol. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

KLDD {Joseph) AT.D. — The Laws of Therapeutics ; or, the Science

and Art of Medicine. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

KLNGSFORD {Anna) AT.D. — The Perfect Way in Diet. A Treatise

advocating a Return to the Natural and Ancient Food of Race. Small crown
8vo. 2 s.

KLNGSLEY {Charles) M.A. — Letters and Memories of his Life.
Edited by his Wife. With Two Steel Engraved Portraits and Vignettes.
Sixteenth Cabinet Edition, -in 2 vols. Crown 8 vo. I2.<\

*** Also a People’s Edition in 1 vol. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 6s.

All Saints’ Day, and other Sermons. Edited by the Rev. W.

Harrison. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 7 a 6d.

True Words for Brave Men. A Book for Soldiers’ and Sailors’

Libraries. Fourteenth Edition. Crown 8vo. 2 s. 6d.

KNOX {Alexander A) — The New Playground ; or, Wanderings in
Algeria. New and Cheaper Edition. Large crown 8vo. 6s.

LAMARFTNE {Alphonse de). By Lady Margaret Domvile. Large

crown 8vo., with Portrait, Js. 6 d.

Kegan Paul, Trench , & Co’s Publications.

13

Land Concentration and Irresponsibility of Political Power, as

causing the Anomaly of a Widespread State of Want by the Side of the Vast
Supplies of Nature. Crown 8vo. 5-r.

LANDON { Joseph ) — School Management ; including a General View

of the Work of Education, Organisation, and Discipline. Sixth Edition.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

LAURIE {S. S.) — Lectures on The Rise and Early Constitution
of Universities. With a Survey of Mediaeval Education. Crown 8vo. 6r.

LEE {Rev. F. G .) D.C.L. — The Other World; or, Glimpses of the
Supernatural. 2 vols. A New Edition. Crown 8vo. 1

LEFEVRE {Right Hon. G. Shaw) — Peel and O’Connell. Demy

8vo. 1 or. 6d.

Incidents of Coercion. A Journal of Visits to Ireland. Crown 8vo. it.
Letters from an Unknown Friend. By the Author of ‘ Charles
Lowder.’ With a Preface by the Rev. W. H. Cleaver. Fcp. 8vo. ir.

LE WARD ( Frank ) — Edited by Chas. Bampton. Crown 8vo. js. 6d.
Life of a Prig. By One, Third Edition. Fcp. 8vo. 3*. 6d.

LILLIE {Arthur) M.R.A.S. — The Popular Life of Buddha. Contain-
ing an Answer to the Hibbert Lectures of 1881. With Illustrations. Crown
8vo. 6s.

Buddhism in Christendom ; or, Jesus, the Essene. Demy 8vo.
with Illustrations. 1 5r.

LOCHER {Cart) — Explanation of the Organ Stops, with Hints for
Effective Combinations. Illustrated. Demy 8vo. 5r.

LONGFELLOW {II. Wadsworth) — Life. By his Brother, Samuel

Longfellow. With Portraits and Illustrations. 3 vols. Demy 8vo. 42 s.

LONSDALE {Margaret) — Sister Dora : a Biography. With Portrait.
Cheap Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.

George Eliot : Thoughts upon her Life, her Books, and Herself.

Second Edition. Small crown 8vo. is. 6d.

LOWDER {Charles) — A Biography. By the Author of ‘St. Teresa.’

New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. With Portrait, y. 6d.

LUCRES {Eva C. E.) — Lectures on General Nursing, delivered

to the Probationers of the London Hospital Training School for Nurses.
Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6 d.

LYTTON {Edward Bulwer , Lord) — Life, Letters, and Literary
Remains. By his Son the Earl of Lytton. With Portraits, Illustrations,
and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo. cloth. Vols. I. and II. 32J.

MACHIAVELLI {Niccclb) — His Life and Times. By Prof. Villari.

Translated by Linda Villari. 4 vols. Large post 8vo. 481-.

Discourses on the First Decade of Titus Livius. Translated from
the Italian by Ninian Hill Thomson, M.A. Large crown 8vo. 12 s.

The Prince. Translated from the Italian by N. H. T. Small crown
8vo. printed on hand-made paper, bevelled boards, 6s.

MACNEILL {/. G. Swi/t) — How the Union was Carried. Crown

8vo. cloth, ij. 6d. ; paper covers, ir.

MAGNUS {Lady) — About the Jews since Bible Times. From the
Babylonian Exile till the English Exodus. Small crown 8vo. 6s.

14

A List of

MAGUIRE { Thomas ) — Lectures on Philosophy. Demy 8vo. ys.
MAINTENON {. Madame de). By Emily Bowles. With Portrait.

Large crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

Many Voices. — Extracts from Religious Writers, from the First to the
Sixteenth Century. With Biographical Sketches. Crown 8vo. cloth extra, 6s.

MARKHAM ( Capt. Albert Hastings') R.N. — The Great Frozen Sea :

a Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the Alert during the Arctic Expedition
of 1875-6. With 33 Illustrations and Two Maps. Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

MARTINEAU { Gertrude ) — Outline Lessons on Morals. Small

crown 8vo. 31. 6d.

MASON {Charlotte Ml) — Home Education. A Course of Lectures to

Ladies, delivered in Bradford in the winter of 1885-1886. Crown 8vo. 3.1. 6 d.

Matter and Energy: An Examination of the Fundamental Concep-
tions of Physical Force. By B. L. L. Small crown 8vo. 2 s.

MATUCE {H. Ogravi) — A Wanderer. Crown 8vo. 5J.

MA UDSLE Y {HI) M.D. — Body and Will. Being an Essay Concerning
Will, in its Metaphysical, Physiological, and Pathological Aspects. 8vo. 12s.

Natural Causes and Supernatural Seemings. Second Edition.

Crown 8 vo. 6j-.

McGRATH {Terence) — Pictures from Ireland. New and Cheaper

Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s.

McKINNEY {S. B. G.) — The Science and Art of Religion.

Crown 8vo. 8j. 6 d.

MILLER {Edward) — The History and Doctrines of Irvingism ;

or, the so-called Catholic and Apostolic Church. 2 vols. Large post 8vo. 15.1.

The Church in Relation to the State. Large crown 8vo. 4s.

MILLS {Herbert) — Poverty and the State ; or, Work for the Unem-
ployed. An Enquiry into the Causes and Extent of Enforced Idleness. Cr. 8vo. 6s.

MINTON {Rev. Francis)— Capital and Wages. 8vo. 15L
MITCHELL {John) — Life. By William Dillon. With Portrait.

Demy 8vo.

MITCHELL {Lucy Ml) — A History of Ancient Sculpture. With

numerous Illustrations, including six Plates in Phototype. Super royal, 42s.

Selections from Ancient Sculpture. Being a Portfolio contain-
ing Reproductions in Phototype of 36 Masterpieces of Ancient Art, to illus-
trate Mrs. Mitchell’s * History of Ancient Sculpture.’ i8j.

MIVART {St. George) — On Truth. 8vo. i6l

MOCKLER {El) — A Grammar of the Baloochee Language, as it is

spoken in Makran (Ancient Gedrosia), in the Persia-Arabic and Roman
characters. Fcp. 8vo.

MOHL {Julius and Mary) — Letters and Recollections of. By
M. C. M. Simpson. With Portraits and Two Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 15.L

MOLES WORTH { W. Nassau) — History of the Church of Eng-
land from 1660. Large crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

Kegan Paul , Trench , dr3 G?.\y Publications.

15

MORELL {/. R.) — Euclid Simplified in Method and Language.

Being a Manual of Geometry. Compiled from the most important French
Works, approved by the University of Paris and the Minister of Public
Instruction. Fcp. 8vo. 2 s. 6d.

MORISON { James Cotter)— The Service of Man. An Essay towards
the Religion of the Future. Demy 8vo. ior. 6d. ; Cheap Edition, crown 8vo. 5 s.

MORSE (E. S.) Ph.D. — First Book of Zoology. With numerous

Illustrations. New and Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.

My Lawyer : A Concise Abridgment of the Laws of England. By a
Barrister-at-Law. Crown 8vo. 6s. 6d.

NELSON {/. H.) M.A. — A Prospectus of the Scientific Study of
the Hindi) Law. Demy 8vo. tyr.

Indian Usage and Judge-made Law in Madras. Demy 8vo. 12 s.
New Social Teachings. By Politicus. Small crown 8vo. 51-.
NEWMAN ( Cardinal ) — Characteristics from the Writings of.

Being Selections from his various Works. Arranged with the Author’s
personal Approval. Seventh Edition. With Portrait, Crown 8vo. 6s.

*** A Portrait of Cardinal Newman, mounted for framing, can be had, 2s. 6 d.

NEWMAN {Francis William ) — Essays on Diet. Small crown 8vo. 2 s.
Miscellanies. Vol. II. : Essays, Tracts, and Addresses, Moral and
Religious. Demy 8vo. 1 2s.

Reminiscences of Two Exiles and Two Wars. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.
NICOLS {Arthur) F.G.S., ER.G.S. — Chapters from the Physical
PIistory of the Earth : an Introduction to Geology and Palaeontology.
With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 51.

NIHILL {Rev. H. D.) — The Sisters of St. Mary at the Cross :
Sisters of the Poor and their Work. Crown 8vo. 2 s. 6 d.

NOEL {The Hon. Roden) — Essays on Poetry and Poets. Demy

8vo. 1 2S.

NOES {Marianne) — Class Lessons on Euclid. Part I. containing the

First Two Books of the Elements. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.

Nuces : Exercises on the Syntax of the Public School Latin Primer.

New Edition in Three Parts. Crown 8vo. each is.

%* The Three Parts can also be had bound together in cloth, 3.?.

OATES {Frank) F.R.G.S. — Matabele Land and the Victoria Falls.

A Naturalist’s Wanderings in the Interior of South Africa. Edited by C. G.
Oates, B.A. With numerous Illustrations and 4 Maps. Demy 8vo. 21 s.
O’BRIEN {R. Barry) — Irish Wrongs and English Remedies, with

other Essays. Crown 8vo. 5 s.

OGLE {W.) M.H., F.R.C.P. — Aristotle on the Parts of Animals.

Translated, with Introduction and Notes. Royal 8vo. 12 s. 6 d.

OLIVER {Robert) — Unnoticed Analogies. A Talk on the Irish Ques-
tion. Crown 8vo. 3 s. 6 d.

OMEARA {Kathleen) — Henri Perreyve and his Counsels to the
Sick. Small crown 8vo. 51-.

One and a Half in Norway. A Chronicle of Small Beer. By Either

and Both. Small crown 8vo. 3-f. 6 d.

ONEIL {The late Rev. Lord).— Sermons. With Memoir and Portrait.

Crown 8 vo. 6s.

Essays and Addresses. Crown 8vo. 51-.

i6

A List of

OTTLEY ( Henry Bickersteth) — T h e Great Dilemma: Christ His own
Witness or His own Accuser. Six Lectures. Second Edition. Crown 8vo.
3$. 6 d.

Our Priests and their Tithes. By a Priest of the Province of

Canterbury. Crown 8vo. 5 s.

Our Public Schools — Eton, Harrow, Winchester, Rugby, West-
minster, Marlborough, The Charterhouse. Crown 8vo. 6s.

OWEN (F. M.) — John Keats : a Study. Crown 8vo. 6r.

PADGHAM (. Richard ) — In the Midst of Life we are in Death.

Crown 8vo. 51.

PALMER ( the late William) — Notes of a Visit to Russia in 1840-41.
Selected and arranged by John H. Cardinal Newman. With Portrait. Crown
8vo. 8r. 6d.

Early Christian Symbolism. A series of Compositions from Fresco-

Paintings, Glasses, and Sculptured Sarcophagi. Edited by the Rev. Provost
Northcote, D.D., and the Rev. Canon Brownlow, M.A. With Coloured
Plates, folio, 42 s. ; or with plain plates, folio, 251.

Parchment Library. Choicely printed on hand-made paper, limp parch-
ment antique or cloth, 6s. ; vellum, Js. 6 d. each volume.

Carlyle’s Sartor Resartus.

Milton’s Poetical Works. 2 vols.

Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. 2 vols. Edited by Alfred W.
Pollard.

Selections from the Prose Writings of Jonathan Swift. With
a Preface and Notes by Stanley Lane-Poole, and Portrait.

English Sacred Lyrics.

Sir Joshua Reynolds’ Discourses. Edited by Edmund Gosse.
Selections from Milton’s Prose Writings. Edited by Ernest
Myers.

The Book of Psalms. Translated by the Rev. Canon Cheyne, D.D.

The Vicar of Wakefield. With Preface and Notes by Austin
Dobson.

English Comic Dramatists. Edited by Oswald Crawfurd.
English Lyrics.

The Sonnets of John Milton. Edited by Mark Pattison.

With Portrait after Vertue.

French Lyrics. Selected and Annotated by George Saintsbury.

With miniature Frontispiece, designed and etched by H. G. Glindoni.

Fables by Mr. John Gay. With Memoir by Austin Dobson,

and an etched Portrait from an unfinished Oil-sketch by Sir Godfrey Kneller.
Select Letters of Percy Bysshe Shelley. Edited, with an Intro-
tion, by Richard Garnett.

The Christian Year; Thoughts in Verse for the Sundays and
Holy Days throughout the Year. With etched Portrait of the Rev. J. Keble,
after the Drawing by G. Richmond, R.A.

Shakspere’s Works. Complete in Twelve Volumes.

Eighteenth Century Essays. Selected and Edited by Austin
Dobson. With a Miniature Frontispiece by R. Caldecott.

Kegan Paul , Trench , <2f Co.'s Publications.

17

Parchment Library— continued.

Q. Horati Flacci Opera. Edited by F. A. Cornish, Assistant
Master at Eton. With a Frontispiece after a design by L. Alma Tadema.
Etched by Leopold Lowenstam.

Edgar Allan Poe’s Poems. With an Essay on his Poetry by
Andrew Lang, and a Frontispiece by Linley Sambourne.

Shakspere’s Sonnets. Edited by Edward Dowden. With a

Frontispiece etched by Leopold Lowenstam, after the Death Mask.

English Odes. Selected by Edmund Gosse. With Frontis-
piece on India paper by Hamo Thomycroft, A.R. A.

Of the Imitation of Christ. By Thomas A Kempis. A revised
Translation. With Frontispiece on India paper, from a Design by W. B.
Richmond.

Poems : Selected from Percy Bysshe Shelley. Dedicated to Lady
Shelley. With Preface by Richard Garnett and a Miniature Frontispiece.
Letters and Journals of Jonathan Swift. Selected and edited,
with a Commentary and Notes, by Stanley Lane Poole.

De Quincey’s Confessions of an English Opium Eater.

Reprinted from the First Edition. Edited by Richard Garnett.

The Gospel according to Matthew, Mark, and Luke.

PARSLOE ( Joseph ) — Our Railways. Sketches, Historical and
Descriptive. With Practical Information as to Fares and Rates, &c., and a
Chapter on Railway Reform. Crown 8vo. 6s.

PASCAL { Blaise ) — The Thoughts of. Translated from the Text of
Auguste Molinier by C. Kegan Paul. Large crown 8vo. with Frontispiece,
printed on hand-made paper, parchment antique, or cloth, 12 s. ; vellum, 15.1.
New Edition, crown 8vo. 6.r.

PATON { W. \ A.) — Down the Islands; a Voyage to the Caribbees.
Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 16 s.

PAUL { C. '. Kegan ) — Biographical Sketches. Printed on hand-made

paper, bound in buckram. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

PEARSON {Rev. S.) — Week-day Living. A Book for Young Men

and Women. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 51.

PENRICE {Major /.) — Arabic and English Dictionary of the
Koran. 4to. 21 s.

PESCHEL {Dr. Oscar) — The Races of Man and their Geographical

Distribution. Second Edition, large crown 8vo. 9 s.

PETERS {F. H.) — The Nicomachean Ethics of Aristotle. Trans-
lated by. Crown 8vo. 6s.

PIDGEON {. D .) — An Engineer’s Holiday ; or, Notes of a Round

Trip from Long. 0° to 0°. New and Cheaper Edition. Large crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

Old World Questions and New World Answers. Large crown

8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

Plain Thoughts for Men. Eight Lectures delivered at the Foresters’
Hall, Clerkenwell, during the London Mission, 1884. Crown 8vo. is. 6 d. ;
paper covers, is.

PLOWRIGHT {C. B.) — The British Uredine^e and Ustilagine^e.
With Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 10 s. 6d.

B

i8

A List of

POE {Edgar Allan ) — Works of. With an Introduction and a Memoir
by Richard Henry Stoddard. In 6 vols. with Frontispieces and Vignettes.
Large crown 8vo. 6s. each vol.

PRICE ( Prof. Bonamy ) — Chapters on Practical Political Economy.

Being the Substance of Lectures delivered before the University of Oxford.
New and Cheaper Edition. Large post 8vo. 5r.

Prig’s Bede: The Venerable Bede Expurgated, Expounded, and Exposed.
By the Prig, Author of ‘ The Life of a Prig.’ Fcp. 8vo. 3r. 6 d.

Prigment (The). A Collection of ‘ The Prig ’ Books. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Pulpit Commentary (The). Old Testament Series. Edited by the Rev.
J. S. Exell and the Very Rev. Dean H. D. M. Spence.

Genesis. By Rev. T. Whitelaw, M.A. With Homilies by the Very
Rev. J. F. Montgomery, D.D., Rev. Prof. R. A. Redford, M.A., LL.B.,
Rev. F. Hastings, Rev. W. Roberts, M.A. ; an Introduction to the Study
of the Old Testament by the Venerable Archdeacon Farrar, D.D., F. R.S. ;
and Introductions to the Pentateuch by the Right Rev. H. Cotterill, D.D.,
and Rev. T. Whitelaw, M.A. Eighth Edition. One vol. I5r.

Exodus. By the Rev. Canon Rawlinson. With Homilies by
Rev. J. Orr, Rev. D. Young, Rev. C. A. Goodhart, Rev. J. Urquhart,
and Rev. H. T. Robjohns. Fourth Edition. Two vols. each 9 s.

Leviticus. By the Rev. Prebendary Meyrick, M.A. With Intro-
ductions by Rev. R. Collins, Rev. Professor A. Cave, and Homilies by
Rev. Prof. Redford, LL.B., Rev. J. A. Macdonald, Rev. W. Clarkson,
Rev. S. R. Aldridge, LL.B., and Rev. McCheyne Edgar. Fourth
Edition. 15.1.

Numbers. By the Rev R. Winterbotham, LL.B. With Homilies by
the Rev. Professor W. Binnie, D.D., Rev. E. S. Prout, M.A., Rev. D.
Young, Rev. J. Waite ; and an Introduction by the Rev. Thomas White-
law, M.A. Fifth Edition. 15.1.

Deuteronomy. By Rev. W. L. Alexander, D.D. With Homilies
by Rev. D. Davies, M.A., Rev. C. Clemance, D.D., Rev. J. Orr, B.D.,
and Rev. R. M. Edgar, M.A. Fourth Edition. 151-.

Joshua. By Rev. J. J. Lias, M.A. With Homilies by Rev. S. R.
Aldridge, LL.B., Rev. R. Glover, Rev. E. De Pressens£, D.D.,
Rev. J. Waite, B.A. Rev. W. F. Adeney, M.A.; and an Introduction by
the Rev. A. Plummer, M.A. Fifth Edition. 12s. 6d.

Judges and Ruth. By the Bishop of Bath and Wells and Rev. J.
Morison, D.D. With Homilies by Rev. A. F. Muir, M.A., Rev. W. F.
Adeney, M.A., Rev. W. M. Statham, and Rev. Professor J. Thomson,
M.A. Fifth Edition. 10 s. 6 d.

1 and 2 Samuel. By the Very Rev. R. P. Smith, D.D. With
Homilies by Rev. Donald Fraser, D.D., Rev. Prof. Chapman, Rev. B.
Dale, and Rev G. Wood. Vol. I. Sixth Edition, 151-. Vol. II. 15.J.

1 Kings. By the Rev. Joseph Hammond, LL.B. With Homilies
by the Rev. E De Pressens£, D.D., Rev. J. Waite, B.A., Rev. A.
Rowland, LL.B., Rev. J. A. Macdonald, and Rev. J. Urquhart.
Fifth Edition. 15.1.

1 Chronicles. By the Rev. Prof. P. C. Barker, M.A., LL.B.
With Homilies by Rev. Prof. J. R. Thomson, M.A., Rev. R. Tuck, B.A.,
Rev. W. Clarkson, B.A., Rev. F. Whitfield, M A., and Rev. Richard
Glover. 15.1.

Kegan Paul \ Trench , & Cols Publications.

19

Pulpit Commentary (The). Old Testament Series — continued.

Ezra, Nehemiah, and Esther. By Rev. Canon G. Rawlinson,
M.A. With Homilies by Rev. Prof. J. R. Thomson, M.A., Rev. Prof. R. A.
Bedford, LL.B., M.A., Rev. W. S. Lewis, M.A., Rev. J. A. Macdonald,
Rev. A. Mackennal, B.A., Rev. W. Clarkson, B.A., Rev. F. Hastings,
Rev. W. Dinwiddie, LL.B., Rev. Prof. Rowlands, B.A., Rev. G. Wood,
B.A., Rev. Prof. P. C. Barker, LL.B., M.A., and Rev. J. S. Exell, M.A.
Sixth Edition. One vol. 12 s. 6d.

Isaiah. By the Rev. Canon G. Rawlinson, M.A. With Homilies
by Rev. Prof. E. Johnson, M.A., Rev. W. Clarkson, B.A., Rev. W. M.
Statiiam, and Rev. R. Tuck, B.A. Second Edition. 2 vols. each 151'.
Jeremiah (Vol. I.). By the Rev. Canon Cheyne, D.D. With Homilies
by the Rev W. F. Adeney, M.A., Rev. A. F. Muir, M.A., Rev. S.
Conway, B.A., Rev. J. Waite, B.A., and Rev. D. Young, B.A. Third
Edition. 151-.

Jeremiah (Vol. II.), and Lamentations. By the Rev. Canon Cheyne,
D.D. With Homilies by Rev. Prof. J. R. Thomson, M.A., Rev. W. F.
Adeney, M.A., Rev. A. F. Muir, M.A., Rev. S. Conway, B.A., Rev. D.
Young, B.A. 151-.

Hosea and Joel. By the Rev. Prof. J. J. Given, Ph.D., D.D.
With Homilies by the Rev. Prof. J. R. Thomson, M.A., Rev. A. Row-
land, B.A., LL.B., Rev. C. Jerdan, M.A., LL.B., Rev. J. Orr, M.A.,
B.D., and Rev. D. Thomas, D.D. i^r.

Pulpit Commentary (The). New Testament Series.

St. Mark. By the Very Rev. E. Bickersteth, D.D., Dean of
Lichfield. With Homilies by the Rev. Prof. Thomson, M.A., Rev. Prof.
Given, M.A., Rev. Prof. Johnson, M.A., Rev. A. Rowland, LL.B., Rev.

A. Muir, M.A., and Rev. R. Green. Fifth Edition. 2 vols. each ior. 6 d.

St. John. By the Rev. Prof. H. R. Reynolds, D.D. With
Homilies by Rev. Prof. T. Croskery, D. D., Rev. Prof. J. R. Thom-
son, Rev. D. Young, Rev. B. Thomas, and Rev. G. Brown. 2 vols.
each I5r.

The Acts of the Apostles. By the Bishop of Bath and Wells.
With Homilies by Rev. Prof. P. C. Barker, M.A., Rev. Prof. E. Johnson,
M.A., Rev. Prof. R. A. Redford, M.A., Rev. R. Tuck, B.A., Rev. W.
Clarkson, B.A. Fourth Edition. Two vols. each ioj. 6 d.

1 Corinthians. By the Ven. Archdeacon Farrar, D.D. With Homi-
lies by Rev. Ex-Chancellor Lipscomu, LL.D., Rev. David Thomas, D.D.,
Rev. Donald Fraser, D.D., Rev. Prof. J. R. Thomson, M.A., Rev. R.
Tuck, B.A., Rev. E. Hurndall, M.A., Rev. J. Waite, B.A., Rev. H.
Bremner, B.D. Third Edition. 15.1.

ii Corinthians and Galatians. By the Ven. Archdeacon
Farrar, D.D., and Rev. Preb. E. Huxtable. With Homilies by Rev.
Ex-Chancellor Lipscomb, LL.D., Rev. David Thomas, D.D., Rev. Donald
Fraser, D.D., Rev. R. Tuck, B.A., Rev. E. Hurndall, M.A., Rev. Prof.
J. R. Thomson, M.A., Rev. R. Finlayson, B.A., Rev. W. F. Adeney,
M.A., Rev. R. M. Edgar, M.A., and Rev. T. Croskery, D.D. 21 s.

Ephesians, Philippians, and Colossians. By the Rev. Prof.
W. G. Blaikie, D.D., Rev. B. C. Caffin, M.A., and Rev. G. G. Findlay,

B. A. With Homilies by Rev. D. Thomas, D.D., Rev. R. M. Edgar, M.A.,
Rev. R. Finlayson, B.A., Rev. W. F. Adeney, M.A., Rev. Prof. T.
Croskery, D.D., Rev. E. S. Prout, M.A., Rev. Canon Vernon Hutton,
and Rev. U. R. Thomas, D.D. Second Edition. 21s.

B 2

20

A List of

Pulpit Commentary (The). New Testament Series — continued.

Thessalonians, Timothy, Titus, and Philemon. By the Bishop
of Bath and Wells, Rev. Dr. Gloag, and Rev. Dr. Eales. With
Homilies by the Rev. B. C. Caffin, M.A., Rev. R. Finlayson, B.A., Rev.
Prof. T. Croskery, D.D., Rev. W. F. Adeney, M.A., Rev. W. M.
Statham, and Rev. D. Thomas, D.D. 15^

Hebrews and James. By the Rev. J. Barmby, D.D., and Rev.
Prebendary E. C. S. Gibson, M. A. With Homiletics by the Rev. C. Jerdan,
M.A., LL.B., and Rev. Prebendary E. C. S. Gibson. And Homilies by the
Rev. W. Jones, Rev. C. New, Rev. D. Young, B.A., Rev. J. S. Bright,
Rev. T. F. Lockyer, B.A., and Rev. C. Jerdan, M.A., LL.B. Second
Edition. Price 15 s.

PUSEY {Dr.)— Sermons for the Church’s Seasons from Advent
to Trinity. Selected from the published Sermons of the late Edward
Bouverie Pusey, D.D. Crown 8vo. 5r.

QUEKETT {Rev. William ) — My Sayings and Doings, with Re-
miniscences of My Life. Demy8vo. i8r.

RANKE (. Leopold von ) — Universal History. The Oldest Historical
Group of Nations and the Greeks. Edited by G.W. Prothero. Demy 8vo. 16s.
RENDELL (/. M ) — Concise Handbook of the Island of Madeira.

With Plan of Funchal and Map of the Island, Fcp. 8vo. is. 6 d.

REYNOLDS {Rev. J. W.) — The Supernatural in Nature A

Verification by Free Use of Science. Third Edition, revised and enlarged.
Demy 8vo. 14A

The Mystery of Miracles. Third and Enlarged Edition. Crown

8vo. 6s.

The Mystery of the Universe : Our Common Faith. Demy
8vo. 14 s.

The World to Come : Immortality a Physical Fact. Crown 8vo. 6s.
RIBOT {Prof. Th.) — Heredity: a Psychological Study on its Phenomena,
its Laws, its Causes, and its Consequences. Second Edition. Large crown
8vo. 9 s.

RIVINGTON {Luke) — Authority, or a Plain Reason for Joining
the Church of Rome. Crown 8vo. 3^. 6d.

ROBERTSON {The late Rev. F. W.) M.A. — Life and Letters of.

Edited by the Rev. Stopford Brooke, M. A.

I. Two vols., uniform with the Sermons. With Steel Portrait. Crown
8vo. 7 s. 6d.

II. Library Edition, in demy 8vo. with Portrait. 12 s.

III. A Popular Edition, in 1 vol. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Sermons. Four Series. Small crown 8vo. 3J. 6d. each.

The Human Race, and other Sermons. Preached at Cheltenham,
Oxford, and Brighton. New and Cheaper Edition. Small crown 8vo. 3*. 6 d.

Notes on Genesis. New and Cheaper Edition. Small crown 8vo,
3j. 6 d.

Expository Lectures on St. Paul’s Epistles to the Corinthians.

A New Edition. Small crown 8vo. $s.

Lectures and Addresses, with other Literary Remains. A New

Edition. Small crown 8vo. 5r.

An Analysis of Tennyson’s 1 In Memoriam.’ (Dedicated by

Permission to the Poet-Laureate.) Fcp. 8vo.2 s.

The Education of the Human Race. Translated from the German

of Gotthold Ephraim Lessing. Fcp. 8vo. 2 s. 6d.

*,* A Portrait of the late Rev. F. W. Robertson, mounted for framing, can
be had, 2s. 6 d.

Kegan Paul, Trench , & Cols Publications.

21

ROGERS { William ) — Reminiscences. Compiled by R. H. Hadden.

With Portrait. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Romance of the Recusants. By theAuthor of'Life ofa Prig.’ Cr.8vo.5j.
ROMANES { G . J.) — Mental Evolution in Animals. With a Posthu-
mous Essay on Instinct, by Charles Darwin, F.R.S. Demy 8vo. 12 s.
Mental Evolution in Man. Vol. I. 8vo. 14J.

ROSMINI SERB ATI (A.) Founder of the Institute of Charity — Life.

By Father Lockhart. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 121.

Rosmini’s Origin of Ideas. Translated from the Fifth Italian Edition

of the Nuovo Saggio. Suit' origine delle idee. 3 vols. Demy 8vo. 1 or. 6a'. each.
Rosmini’s Psychology. 3 vols. Demy 8vo. [Vols. I. & II. now ready,

1 or. 6 d. each.

ROSS {Janet) — Italian Sketches. With 14 full-page Illustrations.

Crown 8vo. 7 r. 6 d.

RULE {Martin) M.A. — The Life and Times of St. Anselm, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury and Primate of the Britains. 2 vols. Demy
8vo. 32r.

SAMUEL {Sydney M.) — Jewish Life in the East. Small crown 8vo.

3r. 6d.

SAYCE {Rev. Archibald Henry) — Introduction to the Science of
Language. 2 vols. Second Edition. Large post 8vo. 2ir.

SCOONES { W. Baptiste) — Four Centuries of English Letters :

A Selection of 350 Letters by 150 Writers, from the Period of the Paston
Letters to the Present Time. Third Edition. Large crown 8vo. 6r.

SEE {Prof. Germain) — Bacillary Phthisis of the Lungs. Translated
and Edited for English Practitioners, by William Henry Weddell,
M.R.C.S. Demy 8vo. ior. 6 d.

SELWYN {Augustus) D.D. — Life. By Canon G. H. Curteis. Crown

8vo. 6s.

SEYMOUR {W. Digby) — Home Rule and State Supremacy. Crown

8vo. 3r. 6d.

SHAKSPERE — Works. The Avon Edition, 12 vols. fcp. 8vo. cloth,

i8r. ; in cloth box, 2ir. ; bound in 6 vols., cloth, I5r.

SHAKSPERE — Works (An Index to). By Evangeline O’Connor.

Crown 8vo. 5r.

SHELLEY {Percy Bysshe). — Life. By Edward Dowden, LL.D.

With Portraits and Illustrations, 2 vols., demy 8vo. 36r.

SHILL1TO {Rev. Joseph) — Womanhood : its Duties, Temptations, and

Privileges. A Book for Young Women. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3 s. 6 d.
Shooting, Practical Hints on. Being a Treatise on the Shot Gun and
its Management. By ‘20-Bore.’ With 55 Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 12s.
Sister Augustine, Superior of the Sisters of Charity at the St. Johannis
Hospital at Bonn. Cheap Edition. Large crown 8vo. 4s. 6 d.

Skinner (James). A Memoir. By the Author of ‘Charles Lowder.’
With a Preface by Canon Carter, and Portrait. Large crown 8vo. "Js. 6 d.
%* Also a Cheap Edition, with Portrait. Crown 8vo. 3-r. 6d.

SMEATON {Donald). — The Loyal Karens of Burmah. Crown

8vo. 4 s. 6 d.

SMITH {Edward) M.D. , LL.B., F.R.S. — Tubercular Consumption
in its Early and Remediable Stages. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

22

A List of

SMITH (L. A.) — Music of the Waters : Sailors’ Chanties, or Work-
ing Songs of the Sea of all Maritime Nations. Demy 8vo. 12 s.

SMITH { Sir W. Cusack , Bart.) — Our War Ships. A Naval Essay.

Crown 8vo. 5a

Spanish Mystics. By the Editor of ‘ Many Voices.’ Crown 8vo. 5.1.
Specimens of English Prose Style from Malory to Macaulay.

Selected and Annotated, with an Introductory Essay, by George SAINTSBURY.
Large crown 8vo., printed on hand-made paper, parchment antique, or cloth,
12s. ; vellum, I 5a

SPEDD1NG {James)— Reviews and Discussions, Literary, Political,
and Historical not relating to Bacon. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6 d.

Evenings with a Reviewer; or, Bacon and Macaulay. With a
Prefatory Notice by G. S. Venables, Q.C. 2 vols. Demy 8vo. i8a

STRACHEY {Sir John) — Lectures on India. 8vo. 15A

Stray Papers on Education and Scenes from School Life. By B. H.

Second Edition. Small crown 8vo. 3A 6 d.

STREATFEILD {Rev. G. S.) M.A. — Lincolnshire and the Danes.

Large crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

STRECKER-WISLICENUS — Organic Chemistry. Translated and

Edited, with Extensive Additions, by W. R. Hodgkinson, Ph.D,, and A. J.
Greenaway, F.I.C. Demy 8vo. 12a 6 d.

Suakin, 1885 ; being a Sketch of the Campaign of this Year. By an
Officer who was there. Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6 d.

SULLY {James) M.A. — Pessimism: a History and a Criticism. Second
Edition. Demy 8vo. 14.1.

TARRLNG {Charles James) M.A. — A Practical Elementary Turkish
Grammar. Crown 8vo. 6 s.

TAYLOR {Hugh) — The Morality of Nations. A Study in the

Evolution of Ethics. Crown 8vo. 6a

TA YLOR {Rev. Lsaac) — The Alphabet. An Account of the Origin

and Development of Letters. Numerous Tables and Facsimiles. 2 vols. 8vo.36.s-.

Leaves from an Egyptian Note- book. Crown 8vo. 5 a
TAYLOR {Reynell) C.B., C.S.L — A Biography. By E. Gambier

Parry. With Portrait and Map. Demy 8vo. 14A

THOM {John Hamilton ) — Laws of Life after the Mind of Christ.

Two Series. Crown 8vo. "js. 6 d. each.

THOMPSON {Sir H.) — Diet in Relation to Age and Activity.

Fcp. 8vo. cloth, is. 6d. ; Paper covers, ia

TID MAN {Paul E) — Gold and Silver Money. Part I. — A Plain
Statement. Part II. — Objections Answered. Third Edition. Crowm 8vo. ia

Money and Labour, is. 6d.

TODHUNTER {Dr. /.) — A Study of Shelley. Crown 8vo. 7 s.

TOLSTOL {Count Leo) — Christ’s Christianity. Translated from the
Russian. Large crown 8vo. 7 a 6 d.

TRANT { William) — Trade Unions : Their Origin and Objects, Influ-
ence and Efficacy. Small crown 8vo. ia 6f. ; paper covers, ia

Kegan Paul , Trench , & Cols Publications.

23

TRENCH {The late R. C., Archbishop ) — Letters and Memorials.

Edited by the Author of ‘Charles Lowder, a Biography,’ &c. With two
Portraits. 2 vols. demy 8vo. 21 s.

Sermons New and Old. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Westminster and Dublin Sermons. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Notes on the Parables of Our Lord. Fourteenth Edition.

8vo. 1 2s. ; Popular Edition, crown 8vo. ]s. 6 d.

Notes on the Miracles of Our Lord. Twelfth Edition.

8vo. 12s. ; Popular Edition, crown 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

Studies in the Gospels. Fifth Edition, Revised. 8vo. ioj. 6 d.
Brief Thoughts and Meditations on Some Passages in Holy
Scripture. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 3 s. 6 d.

Synonyms of the New Testament. Tenth Edition, Enlarged.

8vo. 12s.

On the Authorised Version of the New Testament. Second

Edition. 8vo. 7 s.

Commentary on the Epistle to the Seven Churches in Asia.

Fourth Edition, Revised. 8vo. 8r. 6 d.

The Sermon on the Mount. An Exposition drawn from the
Writings of St. Augustine, with an Essay on his Merits as an Interpreter of
Holy Scripture. Fourth Edition, Enlarged. 8vo. ior. 6 d.

Shipwrecks of Faith. Three Sermons preached before the University
of Cambridge in May 1867. Fcp. 8vo. 2 s. 6 d.

Lectures on Mediaeval Church History. Being the Substance

of Lectures delivered at Queen's College, London. Second Edition. 8vo. 12 s.
English, Past and Present. Thirteenth Edition, Revised and
Improved. Fcp. 8vo. 5r.

On the Study of Words. Nineteenth Edition, Revised. Fcp.
8vo. 5r.

Select Glossary of English Words Used Formerly in Senses
Different from the Present. Sixth Edition, Revised and Enlarged.
Fcp. 8vo. 5*.

Proverbs and Their Lessons. Seventh Edition, Enlarged. Fcp.

8vo. 4?.

Poems. Collected and Arranged Anew. Ninth Edition. Fcp. 8vo.

Js. 6d.

Poems. Library Edition. 2 vols. Small crown 8vo. ior.

Sacred Latin Poetry. Chiefly Lyrical, Selected and Arranged

for Use. Third Edition, Corrected and Improved. Fcp. 8vo. 7 s.

A Household Book of English Poetry. Selected and Arranged,
with Notes. Fourth Edition, Revised. Extra fcp. 8vo. 5-r. 61 i.

An Essay on the Life and Genius of Calderon. With Trans-
lations from his ‘ Life’s a Dream ’ and ‘ Great Theatre of the World.’ Second
Edition, Revised and Improved. Extra fcp. 8vo. 51. 6d.

Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and other Lectures on the
Thirty Years’ War. Third Edition, Enlarged. Fcp. 8vo. 4^.

Plutarch : his Life, his Lives, and his Morals. Second Edition,

Enlarged. Fcap. 8vo. 3-r. 6d.

Remains of the Late Mrs. Richard Trench. Being Selections
from her Journals, Letters, and other Papers. New and Cheaper Issue. With
Portrait. 8vo. 6s.

24

A List of

TUTHILL { C, . A. H.) — Origin and Development of Christian
Dogma. Crown 8vo. 3r. 6d.

TWINING {Louisa) — Workhouse Visiting and Management during
Twenty- five Years. Small crown 8vo. 2 s.

Two Centuries of Irish History. Edited by Tames Bryce, M.P.

8vo. 1 6s.

UMLAUFT (F) — The Alps. Illustrated. 8vo.

VAL D' EREMAO {/. F.) D.D. — The Serpent of Eden. Crown

8vo. 45. 6 d.

VA UGH AN {H. Halford ) — New Readings and Renderings of

Shakespeare’s Tragedies. 3 vols. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. each.

VIC ARY {J. Fulford) — Saga Time. With Illustrations. Cr. 8vo. 7 s. 6d.
VOLCKXSOM {E. W. v.) — Catechism of Elementary Modern

Chemistry. Small crown 8vo. 3r.

WALPOLE { Chas . George) — A Short History of Ireland from the
Earliest Times to the Union with Great Britain. With 5 Maps and
Appendices. Third Edition. Crown 8vo. 6 s.

WARD { William George) Ph.D. ■ — Essays on the Philosophy of
Theism. Edited, with an Introduction, by Wilfrid Ward. 2 vols. demy
8vo. 21 s.

WARD ( Wilfrid) — The Wish to Believe : A Discussion concerning
the Temper of Mind in which a reasonable Man should undertake Religious
Inquiry. Small crown 8vo. 5r.

WARNER {Francis) M.D. — Lectures on the Anatomy of Move-
ment. Crown 8vo. 4^. 6 d.

WARPER {/. W.) — An Old Shropshire Oak. 2 vols. demy 8vo. 281-.
WEDMORE {Frederick) — The Masters of Genre Painting. With

Sixteen Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7 s. 6 d.

WHIBLEY {Charles) — Cambridge Anecdotes. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.
WHITMAN {Sidney) — Conventional Cant : Its Results and Remedy.

Crown 8vo. 6s.

WHITNE Y {Prof William Dwight) — Essentials of English Grammar,

for the Use of Schools. Second Edition, crown 8vo. 3^. 6 d.
WHITWORTH {George Cliffo7-d) — -An Anglo-Indian Dictionary:
a Glossary of Indian Terms used in English. Demy 8vo. cloth, 12 s.

WILBERFORCE {Samuel) D.D. — Life. By R. G. Wilberforce.

Crown 8 vo. 6s.

WILSON {Mrs. R. F.) — The Christian Brothers : their Origin
and Work. Crown 8vo. 6s.

WOLTMANN {Dr. Alfred), and WOERMANN {Dr. Karl)—
History of Painting. Vol. I. Ancient, Early, Christian, and Mediaeval
Painting. With numerous Illustrations. Super-royal 8vo. 28s. ; bevelled
boards, gilt leaves, 30J. Vol. II. The Painting of the Renascence. Cloth,
42 s. ; cloth extra, bevelled boards, 45.1.

Words of Jesus Christ taken from the Gospels. Small crown 8vo.

2s. 6 d.

YOUMANS {Eliza A.) — First Book of Botany. Designed to cultivate

the Observing Powers of Children. With 300 Engravings. New and Cheaper
Edition. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d.

YOUMANS {Edward L.) M.D. — A Class Book of Chemistry, on the

Basis of the New System. With 200 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 5^.

YOUNG {Arthur). — Axial Polarity of Man’s Word-Embodied
Ideas, and its Teaching. Demy 4to. 15s.

Kegan Patel, Trench , & Co.'s Publications.

25

THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC
SERIES.

I. Forms of Water : a Familiar Expo-

sition of the Origin and Phenomena of
Glaciers. By J. Tyndall, LL.D.,
F.R.S. With 25 Illustrations.
Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

II. Physics and Politics ; or, Thoughts
on the Application of the Principles
of ‘Natural Selection’ and ‘Inheri-
tance’ to Political Society. By Walter
Bagehot. Eighth Edition. Crown
8vo. 5j.

III. Foods. By Edward Smith, M.D.,
LL. B. , F. R. S. With numerous Illus-
trations. Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo.

5*-

IV. Mind and Body : the Theories and
their Relation. By Alexander Bain,
LL.D. With Four Illustrations.
Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. 51.

V. The Study of Sociology. By Her-

bert Spencer. Thirteenth Edition.
Crown 8vo. 5r.

VI. On the Conservation of Energy.
By Balfour Stewart, M. A., LL.D.,
F.R.S. With 14 Illustrations. Seventh
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

VII. Animal Locomotion ; or, Walking,
Swimming, and Flying. By J. B.
Pettigrew, M.D., F.R.S., &c. With
130 Illustrations. Third Edition.
Crown 8vo. 51.

VIII. Responsibility in Mental
Disease. By Henry Maudsley, M. D.
Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5 r.

IX. The New Chemistry. By Professor
J. P. Cooke. With 31 Illustrations.
Ninth Edition, remodelled and en-
larged. Crown 8vo. 5 r.

X. The Science of Law. By Professor

Sheldon Amos. Sixth Edition. Crown
8vo. 5 r.

XI. Animal Mechanism : a Treatise on
Terrestrial and Aerial Locomotion.
By Professor E. J. Marey. With 1 1 7
Illustrations. Third Edition. Crown
8vo. 51.

XII. The Doctrine of Descent and
Darwinism. By Professor Oscar
Schmidt. With 26 Illustrations.
Seventh Edition. Crown 8vo. 51.

XIII. The History of the Conflict
between Religion and Science.
By J. W. Draper, M.D., LL.D.
Twentieth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5.1.

XIV. Fungi : their Nature, Influences,
Uses, &c. By M. C. Cooke, M.D.,
LL.D. Edited by the Rev. M. J.
Berkeley, M.A., F.L.S. With nu-
merous Illustrations. Fourth Edition.
Crown 8vo. Sr.

XV. The Chemical Effects of Light
and Photography. By Dr. Her-
mann Vogel. Translation thoroughly
revised. With 100 Illustrations. Fifth
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

XVI. The Life and Growth of Lan-
guage. By Professor William Dwight
Whitney. Fifth Edition. Crown
8vo. 5 r.

XVII. Money and the Mechanism of
Exchange* By W. Stanley Jevons,
M.A., F.R.S. Eighth Edition.
Crown 8vo. Sr.

XVIII. The Nature of Light. With
a General Account of Physical Optics.
By Dr. Eugene Lommel. With 188
Illustrations and a Table of Spectra
in Chromo-lithography. Fourth Edit.
Crown 8vo. Sr.

XIX. Animal Parasites and Mess-
mates. By P. J. Van Beneden.
With 83 Illustrations. Third Edition.
Crown 8vo. Sr.

XX. Fermentation. By Professor
Schikzenberger. With 28 Illustrations.
Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

XXI. The Five Senses of Man. By
Professor Bernstein. With 91 Illus-
trations. Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo.
S-f-

XXII. The Theory of Sound in its
Relation to Music. By Professor
Pietro Blaserna. With numerous Illus-
trations. Third Edition. Crown 8vo.

5*-

XXIII. Studies in Spectrum Analy-
sis. By J. Norman Lockyer, F.R.S.
Fourth Edition. With six Photogra-
phic Illustrations of Spectra, and nu-
merous Engravings on Wood. Crown
8vo. 6r. 6 d.

26

A List of

XXIV. A History of the Growth of
the Steam Engine. By Professor
R. H. Thurston. With numerous
Illustrations. Fourth Edition. Crown
8vo. 5r.

XXV. Education as a Science. By
Alexander Bain, LL.D. Sixth
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

XXVI. The Human Species. By Prof.
A. De Quatrefages. Fourth Edition.
Crown 8vo. 5r.

XXVII. Modern Chromatics. With
Applications to Art and Industry. By
Ogden N. Rood. With 130 original
Illustrations. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. 5s.

XXVIII. The Crayfish : an Introduc-
tion to the Study of Zoology. By
Professor T. H. Huxley. With 82
Illustrations. Fourth Edition. Crown
8vo. 5>r.

XXIX. The Brain as an Organ of
Mind. By H. Charlton Bastian,
M.D. With numerous Illustrations.
Third Edition. Crown 8vo, 5r.

XXX. The Atomic Theory. By Prof.
Wurtz. Translated by G. Clemin-
shaw, F.C.S. Fifth Edition. Crown
8vo. 5 r.

XXXI. The Natural Conditions of
Existence as they affect Animal
Life. By Karl Semper. With 2 Maps
and 106 Woodcuts. Third Edition.
Crown 8vo. 5 r.

XXXII. General Physiology of
Muscles and Nerves. By Prof. J.
Rosenthal. Third Edition. With
Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 5r.
XXXIII. Sight : an Exposition of the
Principles of Monocular and Binocular
Vision. By Joseph LeConte, LL.D.
Second Edition. With 132 Illustra-
tions. Crown 8vo. 5r.

XXXIV. Illusions : a Psychological
Study. By James Sully. Third
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5 r.

XXXV. Volcanoes : what they are

AND WHAT THEY TEACH. By

Professor J. W. Judd, F.R. S. With
92 Illustrations on Wood. Fourth
Edition. Crown 8vo. Sr.

XXXVI. Suicide : an Essay on Com-
parative Moral Statistics. By Prof.
H. Morselli. Second Edition. With
Diagrams. Crown 8vo. 5r.

XXXVII. The Brain and its Func-
tions. By J. Luys. Second Edition.
With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 51.

XXXVIII. Myth and Science : an
Essay. By Tito Vignoli. Third
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5 r.

XXXIX. The Sun. By Professor Young.
With Illustrations. Third Edition.
Crown 8vo. 5 r.

XL. Ants, Bees, and Wasps : a Record
of Observations on the Habits of the
Social Hymenoptera. By Sir John
Lubbock, Bart., M.P. WithsChromo-
lithographic Illustrations. Ninth
Edition. Crown 8vo 51-.

XLI. Animal Intelligence. By G. J.
Romanes, LL.D., F.R.S. Fourth
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

XLII. The Concepts and Theories of
Modern Physics. By J. B. Stallo.
Third Edition. Crown 8vo. Sr.
XLIII. Diseases of Memory : an Essay
in the Positive Pyschology. By Prof.
Th. Ribot. Third Edition. Crown
8vo. Sr.

XLIV. Man before Metals. By N.

Joly. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo. Sr.
XLV. The Science of Politics. By
Prof. Sheldon Amos. Third Edit.
Crown. 8vo. Sr.

XLVI. Elementary Meteorology.
By Robert H. Scott. Fourth Edition.
With numerous Illustrations. Crown
8vo. 5 r.

XLVII. The Organs of Speech and
their Application in the For
mation of Articulate Sounds
By Georg Hermann von Meyer.
With 47 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. Sr.

XLVIII. Fallacies : a View of Logic
from the Practical Side. By Alfred
Sidgwick. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. Sr.

XLIX. Origin of Cultivated Plants.
By Alphonse de Candolle. Second
Edition. Crown 8vo. 5r.

L. Jelly Fish, Star Fish, and Sea
Urchins. Being a Research on
Primitive Nervous Systems. By
G. J. Romanes. Crown 8vo. 5r.

LI. The Common Sense of the Exact
Sciences. By the late William King-
don Clifford. Second Edition. With
100 Figures. 5r.

Kegan Paul, Trench , & Cols Publications.

2 7

LII. Physical Expression : Its Modes
and Principles. By Francis Warner,
M.D., F.R.C.P. With 50 Illustra-
tions. 5 s.

LIII. Anthropoid Apes. By Robert
Hartmann. With 63 Illustrations. 5.?.

LIV. The Mammalia in their Rela-
tion to Primeval Times. By
Oscar Schmidt. With 51 Woodcuts.

SJ-

LV. Comparative Literature. By H.
Macaulay Posnett, LL.D. 5-r.

LVI. Earthquakes and other Earth
Movements. By Prof. John Milne.
With 38 Figures. Second Edition. $s.

LVII. Microbes, Ferments, and
Moulds. By E. L. Trouessart.
With 107 Illustrations. 5 s.

LVIII. Geographical and Geologi-
cal Distribution of Animals.
By Professor A. Heilprin. With
Frontispiece. 51-.

MILITARY

BARRINGTON (Capt. J. T.) — England
on the Defensive ; or, the Problem
of Invasion Critically Examined.
Large crown 8vo. with Map, 7 s. 6 d.

BRACKENBURY ( Col . C. B.) R.A.
— Military Handbooks for Regi-
mental Officers :

I. Military Sketching and Re-
connaissance. By Colonel F. J.
Hutchison and Major H. G. Mac-
Gregor. Fifth Edition. With 15
Plates. Small crown 8vo. 4 s.

II. The Elements of Modern
Tactics Practically applied to
English Formations. By Lieut.-
Col. Wilkinson Shaw. Sixth Edit.
With 25 Plates and Maps. Small
crown 8vo. gs.

III. , Field Artillery : its Equip-
ment, Organisation, and Tactics. By
Major Sisson C. Pratt, R.A. With
12 Plates. Third Edition. Small
crown 8vo. 6s.

IV. The Elements of Military
Administration. First Part : Per-
manent System of Administration.
By Major J. W. Buxton. Small
crown 8vo. "js. 6 d.

LIX. Weather. A Popular Exposition
of the Nature of Weather Changes
from Day to Day. By the Hon.
Ralph Abercromby. With 96 Illus-
trations. Second Edition. 5-r.

LX. Animal Magnetism. By Alfred
Binet and Charles Fere. 5r.

LXI. Manual of British Discomy-
cetes, with descriptions of all the
Species of Fungi hitherto found in
Britain included in the I'amily, and
Illustrations of the Genera. By William
Phillips, F.L.S. 5-r.

LXII. International Law. With Ma-
terials for a Code of International
Law. By Professor Leone Levi. $s.

LXIII. The Geological History of
Plants. By Sir J. William Dawson.
With 80 Illustrations. 5 s.

LXIV. The Origin of Floral Struc-
tures through Insect and other
Agencies. By Professor G. Henslow.

LXV. On the Senses, Instincts, and
Intelligence of Animals. With
special Reference to Insects. By Sir
John Lubbock, Bart., M.P. 100
Illustrations, ^s.

WORKS.

BRACKENBURY (Col. C. B.) R.A.—

continued.

V. Military Law : its Procedure and
Practice. By Major Sisson C. Pratt,
R.A. Third Edition. Small crown
8vo. 4 s. 6d.

VI. Cavalry in Modern War. By
Major-General F. Chenevix Trench.
Small crown 8vo. 6s.

VII. Field Works. Their Technical
Construction and Tactical Applica-
tion. By the Editor, Col. C. B.
Brackenbury, R.A. Small crown 8vo.

BROOKE ( Major C. K.)—A. System of
Field Training. Small crown 8vo.

2S.

CLERY (Col. C. Francis ) C.B. — Minor
Tactics. With 26 Maps and Plans.
Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo. gs.

COL VILE (Lieut. -Col. C. F.) — Mili-
tary Tribunals. Sewed, 2 s. 6 d.

CRAUFURD (Capt. H. J.)— Sugges-
tions for the Military Train-
ing of a Company of Infantry.
Crown 8vo. is. 6 d.

28

A List of

HAMILTON {Capt. Ian) A. D.C. -The
Fighting of the Future, ix.

HARRISON {Lieut. -Col. R.) — The
Officer’s Memorandum Book for
Peace and War. Fourth Edition.
Oblong 32mo. roan, with pencil, y. 6 d.

Notes on Cavalry Tactics, Organi-
sation, &c. By a Cavalry Officer.
With Diagrams. Demy 8vo. 12s.

FARR {Col. H. Hallam) C.M.G.— The
Dress, Horses, and Equipment of
Infantry and Staff Officers.
Crown 8vo. is.

Further Training and Equipment
of Mounted Infantry. Crown
8vo. ix.

SCHAW{Col. H.)— The Defence and
Attack of Positions and Locali-
ties. Third Edition, revised and
corrected. Crown 8vo. 3x. 6 d.

STONE {Capt. F. Glcadowe) R.A. — Tac-
tical Studies from the Franco-
German War of 1870-71. With
22 Lithographic Sketches and Maps.
Demy 8vo. iox. 6d.

The Campaign of Fredericksburg,
November-December, 1862 : a Study
for Officers of Volunteers. By a
Line Officer. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. With Five Maps and Plans. 5x.

WILKINSON {II. Spenser) Capt. 2.0th
Lancashire R. V. — Citizen Soldiers.
Essays towards the Improvement of
the Volunteer Force. Cr. 8vo. 2x. 6 d.

POETRY.

ADAM OF ST. VICTOR— The Litur-
gical Poetry of Adam of St.
Victor. From the text of Gautier.
With Translations into English in the
Original Metres, and Short Explana-
tory Notes. By Digby S. Wrangham,
M.A. 3 vols. Crown 8vo. printed on
hand-made paper, boards, 2lx.

ALEXANDER {William) D.D., Bishop
of Derry — St. Augustine’s Holi-
day, and other Poems. Crown 8vo. 6x.

AUCHMUTY {A. C.)— Poems of Eng-
lish Heroism : From Brunanburgh
to Lucknow ; from Athelstan to Albert.
Small crown 8vo. lx. 6d.

BARNES {William) — Poems of Rural
Life, in the Dorset Dialect.
New Edition, complete in one vol.
Crown 8vo. 6x.

BA YNES {Rev. Canon II. R.) — Home
Songs for Quiet Hours. Fourth
and cheaper Edition. Fcp. 8vo. 2 x. 6d.

BEVINGTON {L. S'.)— Key Notes.
Small crown 8vo. 5x.

BLUNT {Wilfrid Seamen) — The Wind
and the Whirlwind. Demy 8vo.
ix. 6 d.

The Love Sonnets of Proteus. Fifth
Edition. i8mo. cloth extra, gilt top, 5x.

BOWEN {H. C.) M.A.— Simple Eng-
lish Poems. English Literature for
Junior Classes. In Four Parts. Parts
I. II. and III. 6d. each, and
Part IV. lx., complete 3x.

BRYANT {W. C.) — Poems. Cheap
Edition, with Frontispiece. Small
crown 8vo. 3X. 6 d.

Calderon’s Dramas : the Wonder-

working Magician — Life is a Dream
—the Purgatory of St. Patrick. Trans-
lated by Denis Florence MacCarthy.
Post 8vo. iox.

CAMPBELL {Lewis) — Sophocles. The
Seven Plays in English Verse. Crown
8vo. 7x. 6d.

CERVANTES. — Journey to Par-
nassus. Spanish Text, with Trans-
lation into English Tercets, Preface,
and Illustrative Notes, by James Y.
Gibson. Crown 8vo. i2x.
Numantia; a Tragedy. Translated
from the Spanish, with Introduction
and Notes, by James Y. Gibson.
Crown 8vo., printed on hand-made
paper, 5x.

Cid Ballads, and other Poems. Trans-
lated from Spanish and German by

J. Y. Gibson. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. I2x.
CHRISTIE {A. f.)— The End of Man.

Fourth Edition. Fcp. 8vo. 2x. 6 d.
COXHEAD { Ethel ) — Birds and Babies.

Imp. i6mo. With 33 Illustrations, ix.
DANTE — The Divina Commedia of
Dante Alighieri. Translated, line
for line, in the ‘ Terza Rima ’ of the
original, with Notes, by Frederick

K. H. Haselfoot, M.A. Demy8vo.
i6x.

Kegan Paul , Trench, & Cols Publications.

29

DE BERANGER.—A Selection from
his Songs. In English Verse. By
William Toynbee. Small crown
8vo. 2 r. 6 d.

DENNIS ( J .) — English Sonnets.
Collected and Arranged by. Small
crown 8vo_. 2s. 6d.

DE VERE (Aubrey) — Poetical Works:

I. The Search after Proser-
pine, &c. 6s.

II. The Legends of St. Patrick,
&c. 6s.

III. Alexander the Great, &c. 6s.
The Foray of Queen Meave, and
other Legends of Ireland’s Heroic
Age. Small crown 8vo. 5r.

Legends of the Saxon Saints.

Small crown 8vo. 6s.

Legends and Records of the Church
and the Empire. Small crown
8vo. 6s.

DOBSON (A «r*‘«)— OldWorld Idylls,
and other Verses. Eighth Edition.
Elzevir 8vo. cloth extra, gilt tops, 6s.
At the Sign of the Lyre. Fifth
Edition. Elzevir 8vo., gilt top, 6s.
DOWDEN (Edward) LL.D.— Shak-
spere’s Sonnets. With Introduc-
tion and Notes. Large post 8vo.
Js. 6d.

DUTT (Tom)— A Sheaf Gleaned in
French Fields. New Edition.
Demy 8vo. lor. 6 d.

Ancient Ballads and Legends of
Hindustan. With an Introductory
Memoir by Edmund Gosse. Second
Edition. i8mo. Cloth extra, gilt top, 5r.
ELLIOTT (Ebenezer), The Corn Law
Rhymer — Poems. Edited by his Son,
the Rev. Edwin Elliott, of St. John’s,
Antigua. 2 vols. crown 8vo. iSs.

English Verse. Edited by W. J. Lin-
ton and R. H. Stoddard. In 5
vols. Crown 8vo. each Sr.

1. Chaucer to Burns.

2. Translations.

3. Lyrics of the Nineteenth Cen-

tury.

4. Dramatic Scenes and Charac-

ters.

5. Ballads and Romances.

EVANS (Anne) — Poems and Music.

With Memorial Preface by Ann
Thackeray Ritchie. Large crown
8vo. Js.

GOSSE (Edmund W.)— New Poems.
Crown 8vo. Js. 6 d.

Firdausi in Exile, and other Poems.
Elzevir 8vo. gilt top, 6s.

GURNE V (Rev. Alfred) — The Vision of
the Eucharist, and other Poems.
Crown 8vo. 5.?.

A Christmas Faggot. Small crown
8vo. 5r.

HARRISON (Clifford) — In Hours of
Leisure. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. 5 s.

KEA TS (John) — Poetical Works.
Edited by W. T. Arnold. Large
crown 8vo. choicely printed on hand-
made paper, with Portrait in eau forte.
Parchment, or cloth, 12 s. ; vellum, I5r.
Also, a smaller Edition. Crown 8vo.

3-l 6d.

KING (Mrs. Hamilton) — The Disciples.
Eighth Edition, with Portrait and
Notes. Crown 8vo. $s. Elzevir
Edition, 6r.

A Book of Dreams. Third Edition.
Crown 8vo. 3r. 6 d.

The Sermon in the Hospital. Re-
printed from ‘ The Disciples.’ Fcp.
8vo. ir. Cheap Edition, 3 d., or 20 s.
per 100.

KNOX (The Hon. Mrs. O. N.) — Four
Pictures from a Life, and other
Poems. Small crown 8vo. 31-. 6 d.
LANG (A.) — XXXII Ballades in Blue
China. Elzevir 8vo. parchment, or
cloth, sr.

Rhymes A la Mode. With Frontis-
piece by E. A. Abbey. Elzevir 8vo.
cloth extra, gilt top, 5 s.

LA WSON (Right Hon. Mr. Justice) — -
Hymni Usitati Latine Redditi,
with other Verses. Small 8vo. parch-
ment, 5r.

Living English Poets, mdccclxxxii.
With Frontispiece by Walter Crane.
Second Edition. Large crown 8vo.
printed on hand-made paper. Parch-
ment, or cloth, I2r. ; vellum, 15^.

LOCKER (F.) — London Lyrics. New
Edition, with Portrait. i8mo. cloth
extra, gilt tops, 5r.

Love in Idleness. A Volume of Poems.
With an etching by W. B. Scott.
Small crown Svo. Sr.

30

A List of

LUMSDEN {Lieut. -Col. II. W.) — Beo-
wulf : an Old English Poem.

Translated into Modern Rhymes.
Second and revised Edition. Small
crown 8vo. 5 r.

MAGNUSSON {. Eirikr ) M.A., and
PALMER (E. II.) M.A.— Johan
Ludvig Runeberg’sLyrical Songs,
Idylls, and Epigrams. Fcp. 8vo. $s.

MEREDITH {Owen) [The Earl of
Lytton\ — Lucile. New Edition. With
32 Illustrations. i6mo. 31-. 6d. ; cloth
extra, gilt edges, 4 r. 6 d.

MORRIS {Lewis) — Poetical Works.
New and Cheaper Editions, with Por-
trait, complete in 4 vols. 51-. each.

Vol. I. contains Songs of Two Worlds.
Twelfth Edition.

Vol. II. contains The Epic of Hades.
Twenty-second Edition.

Vol. III. contains Gwen and the Ode of
Life. Seventh Edition.

Vol. IV. contains Songs Unsung and
Gycia. Fifth Edition.

Songs of Britain. Third Edition.
Fcp. 8vo. 5r.

The Epic of Hades. With 16 Auto-
type Illustrations after the drawings by
the late George R. Chapman. 4to.
cloth extra, gilt leaves, 21 s.

The Epic of Hades. Presentation Edit.
4to. cloth extra, gilt leaves, ior. 61 1

The Lewis Morris Birthday Book.
Edited by S. S. Copeman. With
Frontispiece after a design by the late
George R. Chapman. 32mo. cloth
extra, gilt edges, 2s. ; cloth limp, ir. 6 d.

MORSHEAD {E. D. A.)— The House
of Atreus. Being the Agamemnon,
Libation-Bearers, and Furies of Hfs-
chy lus . Translated into English V erse.
Crown 8vo. 7 s.

The Suppliant Maidens of Hsschy-
lus. Crown 8vo. 31. 6 d.

MULHOLLAND {Rosa). — Vagrant
Verses. Small crown 8vo. Sr.

NADEN {Constance C. W.) — A Modern
Apostle, and other Poems. Small
crown 8vo. 5f-

NOEL {The Hon. Roden)— A Little
Child’s Monument. Third Edition.
Small crown 8vo. 3 s. 6d.

The Red Flag, and other Poems.
New Edition. Small crown 8vo. 6s.

The House of Ravensburg. New
Edition. Small crown 8vo. 6s.

NOEL {The lion. Roden) — continued.

Songs of the Heights and Deeps.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

A Modern Faust. Small crown 8vo.

O'BRIEN {Charlotte Grace ) — Lyrics.
Small crown 8vo. 31. 6 d.

O' HAGAN {John)— The Song of
Roland. Translated into English
Verse. New and Cheaper Edition.
Crown 8vo. 5 s.

PFEIFFER {Emily) — The Rhyme of
the Lady of the Rock and How
it Grew. Small crown 8vo. 3r. 6 d.

Gerard’s Monument, and other Poems.
Second Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Under the Aspens : Lyrical and

Dramatic. With Portrait. Crown
8 vo. 6s.

PIATT {J. J.) — Idyls and Lyrics of
the Ohio Valley. Crown 8vo. 5 s.

PIATT {Sarah M. B.) — A Voyage to
the Fortunate Isles, and other
Poems. 1 vol. Small crown 8vo.
gilt top, 5 r.

In Primrose Time. A New Irish
Garland. Small crown 8vo. 2s. 6 d.

Rare Poems of the i6th and 17TH
Centuries. Edited by W. J. Linton.
Crown 8vo. 5r.

RHOADES {James) — The Georgics of
Virgil. Translated into English
Verse. Small crown 8vo. 5-r.

ROBINSON {A. Mary F) — A Handful
of Honeysuckle. Fcp. 8vo. 31-. 6d.

The Crowned Hippolytus. Trans-
lated from Euripides. With New
Poems. Small crown 8vo. cloth, 51.

Shakspere’s Works. The Avon Edition,
12 vols. fcp. 8 vo. cloth, l8r. ; and in
box, 21 s. ; bound in 6 vols. cloth, 15.1.

Sophocles : The Seven Plays in English
Verse. Translated by Lewis Camp-
bell. Crown 8vo. 7 s. 6d.

SYMONDS {John Addington) — V AG A-
bunduli Libellus- Crown 8vo. 6l

TAYLOR {Sir II.)— Works Complete in
Five Volumes. Crown 8vo. 30L

Philip van Artevelde. Fcp. 8vo.

3 6d.

The Virgin Widow, &c. Fcp. 8vo.

3 s. 6 d.

The Statesman. Fcp. 8vo. 31. 6d.

Kegan Paul , Trench , df Publications.

3i

TODHUNTER {Dr. J ) — Laurella,
and other Poems. Crown 8vo. 6s. 6 d.

Forest Songs. Small crown 8vo. 3 s.6d.

The True Tragedy of Rienzi : a
Drama. Crown 8vo. 3A 6d.

Alcestis : a Dramatic Poem. Extra
fcp. 8vo. 5-f.

Helena in Troas. Small crown
8vo. is. 6 d.

TYNAN (Katherine) — Louise de la
Valliere, and other Poems. Small
crowm 8vo. 3*. 6 d.

Shamrocks. Small crown 8vo. 5a

Victorian Hymns : English Sacred
Songs of Fifty Years. Dedicated to
the Queen. Large post 8vo. 10 s. 6d.

IVA TTS (Alaric Alfred a)id Emma Mary
Howitt) — Aurora : a Medley of
Verse. Fcp. 8vo. 5.?.

WORDSWORTH — Selections. By
Members of the Wordsworth Society.
Large crown 8vo. parchment, 12a ;
vellum, 15J. Also, cr. 8vo. cl. 4 s. 6d.

Wordsworth Birthday Book, The.
Edited by Adelaide and Violet
Wordsworth. 32010. limp cloth,
is. 6 d. ; cloth extra, 2s.

WORKS OF FICTION.

‘ All But : ’ a Chronicle of Laxenford
Life. By Pen Oliver, F.R.C.S.
With 20 Illustrations. Second Edit.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

BANKS (Mrs. G. L.)— God’s Provi-
dence House. New Edition. Crown
8vo. 6s.

CHICHELE (Mary) — Doing and Un-
doing : a Story. Crown 8vo. 4A 6 d.
CRA WFURD (Oswald) — Sylvia Arden.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

GARDINER (Linda) — His Heritage.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

GRAY (Maxwell)— The Silence of
Dean Maitland. Fourth Edition.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

GREY ( Rowland ) — By Virtue of His
Office. Crown 8vo. 6a
In Sunny Switzerland. Small
crown 8vo. Sr.

Lindenblumen, and other Stories.
Small crown 8vo. Sr.

HUNTER (Hay)— Crime of Christ-
mas Day. A Tale of the Latin
Quarter. By the Author of ‘My
Ducats and My Daughter.’ ir.

HUNTER (Hay) and WHYTE ( Walter)
My Ducats and My Daughter.
New and Cheaper Edition. With
Frontispiece. Crown 8vo. 6r.

INGE LOW (Jean)— Off the Skelligs.
A Novel. With Frontispiece. Second
Edition. Crown 8vo. 6r.

Ixora. A Mystery. Crown 8vo. 6r.

JENKINS (Edward)— A Secret of
Two Lives. Crown 8vo. 2r. 6a.

KIELLAND (Alexander L.)— Garman
and Worse. A Norwegian Novel.
Authorised Translation by W. W.
Kettlewell. Crown 8vo. 6s.

LANG (Andrew) — In the Wrong Par-
adise, and other Stories. Crown
8vo. 6s.

MACDONALD (G.)— Donal Grant.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

Castle Warlock. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Malcolm. With Portrait of the Author
engraved on Steel. Crown 8vo. 6a

The Marquis of Lossie. Crown
8 vo. 6s.

St. George and St. Michael. Crown
8vo. 6a

Paul Faber, Surgeon. Crown 8vo. 6a

Thomas Wingfold, Curate. Crown
8vo. 6a

What’s Mine’s Mine. Second Edition.
Crown 8vo. 6a

Annals of a Quiet Neighbourhood.
Crown 8vo. 6a

The Seaboard Parish : a Sequel to
‘ Annals of a Quiet Neighbourhood.’
Crown 8vo. 6a

Wilfred Cumbermede. An Auto-
biographical Story. Crown 8vo. 6a
The Elect Lady. Crown 8vo. 6s.

MALET (Lucas) — Colonel Enderby’s
Wife. Crown 8vo. 6a
A Counsel of Perfection. Crown
8vo. 6s.

MUI.HOLLAND (Rosa) — Marcella
Grace. An Irish Novel. Crown
8vo. 6a

A Fair Emigrant. Crown 8vo. 6a

OGLE (A. C.) (‘ Ashford Owen.’) A

Lost Love. Small crown 8vo. 2a 6 d.

32

Kegan Paul , Trench , & Cols Publications .

PALGRAVE ( W. Gifford ) — Hermann
Agha : an Eastern Narrative. Third
Edition. Crown 8vo. 6s.

SE VERNE (Mrs.) — ThePillar House.

With Frontispiece. Crown 8vo. 6s.
SHAW (Flora L.) — Castle Blair; a
Story of Youthful Days. New and
Cheaper Edition. Crown 8vo. 3,5. 6d.

STRETTON (Hesba) — Through a
Needle’s Eye. A Story. New and
Cheaper Edition, with Frontispiece.
Crown 8vo. 6s.

TA YL OR ( Col. Meadows) C. S. I. ,M.R.ZA.
Seeta. A Novel. New and Cheaper
Edition. With Frontispiece. Crown
8vo. 6s.

TA YL OR ( Col. Meadows) C. S. I. ,M.R.I.A.
— continued.

Tippoo Sultaun : a Tale of the Mysore
War. New Edition, with Frontispiece. !
Crown 8vo. 6s.

Ralph Darnell. New and Cheaper
Edition. With Frontispiece. Crown
8vo. 6s.

A Noble Queen. New and Cheaper'
Edition. With Frontispiece. Crown 1
8vo. 6s.

The Confessions of a Thug. I
Crown 8vo. 6s.

Tara : a Mahratta Tale. Crown 8vo. 6s.

Within Sound of the Sea. New
and Cheaper Edition, with Frontis-
piece. Crown 8vo. 6s.

BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG.

Brave Men’s Footsteps. A Book of
Example and Anecdote for Young
People. By the Editor of ‘ Men who
have Risen.’ With Four Illustrations
by C. Doyle. Eighth Edition. Crown
8vo. 2.s. 6 d.

COXHEAD (Ethel)— Birds and Babies.
With 33 Illustrations. Imp. i6mo.
cloth gilt, Ir.

DAVIES (G. Christopher) — Rambles
and Adventures of our School
Field Club. With Four Illustra-
tions. New and Cheaper Edition.
Crown 8vo. 3r. 6 d.

EDMONDS (Herbert) — Well-spent
Lives : a Series of Modem Biogra-
phies. New and Cheaper Edition.
Crown 8vo. 3^. 6d.

EVANS (Mark) — The Story of our
Father’s Love, told to Children.
Sixth and Cheaper Edition of Theology
for Children. With Four Illustra-
tions. Fcp. 8vo. is. 6d.

MAC HENNA (S. ff.)— Plucky Fel-
lows. A Book for Boys. With Six
Illustrations. Fifth Edition. Crown
8 vo. 3-r. 6d.

MALE 7 (Lucas) — Little Peter. A
Christmas Morality for Children of
any Age. With numerous Illustra-
tions. Sr.

REANEY (Mrs. G. Y.) — Waking and
Working ; or, From Girlhood to I
Womanhood. New and Cheaper
Edition. With a Frontispiece. Cr.
8vo. 3r. 6d,

Blessing and Blessed: a Sketch of
Girl Life. New and Cheaper Edition. 1
Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d.

Rose Gurney’s Discovery. A Book
for Girls. Dedicated to their Mothers. ]
Crown 8vo. 35. 6d.

English Girls : Their Place and Power. I
With Preface by the Rev. R. W. Dale.
Fourth Edition. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. 6d.

J ust Anyone, and other Stories. Three j
Illustrations. Royal i6mo. is. 6 d.

Sunbeam Willie, and other Stories.
Three Illustrations. Royal i6mo.
is. 6 d.

Sunshine Jenny, and other Stories, j
Three Illustrations. Royal i6mo. ! I
ij. 6d.

S T ORR (Francis) and TU RNER (Hawes) .
Canterbury Chimes; or, Chaucer
Tales Re-told to Children. With Six
Illustrations from the Ellesmere MS.
Third Edition. Fcp. 8vo. 3.1. 6d.

STRETTON (Hesba) — David Lloyd’s
Last Will. With Four Illustra-
tions. New Edition. Royal i6mo.

2s. 6 d.

WHIT AKER (Florence) — Christy’s In-
heritance : A London Story. Illus-
trated. Royal i6mo. Is. 6d.

Spottis'woode & Co. Printers, New-street Square , London •

“ITT CENTER LIBRARY

3 3125 00032 7516

1