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PRESENTED
TO

C, I HO VET, ESQR'

BY THE AUTHOR.

1840,

GIFT OF
C. H. Hovey

THE

YOUNG
GARDENER'S ASSISTANT;

CONTAI.VIXG A CATALOGUE OF

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^

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD,

FOR THE CULTIVATION OF

CULINARY VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS,

ALSO DIRECTIONS FOR

CULTIVATING FRUIT TREES, THE GRAPE VINE, &c.;

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

Showing the Work necessary to be done in the various departments
of Gardening in every month of the year.

EIGHTH EDITION, IMPROVED.

BY T. BRIDGEMAN,

GARDENER, SEEDSMAN, AND FLORIST, NEW-YORK.

'•The end of all instruction should be the attainment of useful knowledge.

NEW- YORK:

For rale by T. Bridgeman, corner 18lh st. and Broadway, immediately nerth of Union
Place Park ; G. C. Thorburn, No 11 John street ; Alexander Smith, 388 Broadway,
N. Y. ; G. R. Garretson, Flushing. L I ; Win. Thorburn, Albany; Reynolds and
Bateham. Rochester ; Hovey & Co., Ellis & Bosson, Joseph Breck k Co., Boston ;
Hirst St breer, D. Landreth & Co., Philadelphia; J. Cairns, Newark. N. J. ; R.
Sinclair, Jr. & Co., Baltimore ; J. F. Callau, Washington City; Turner &. Hughes,
Raleigh, N. C. ; J. Houghton, Cleveland ; J. C. Porkburst, Cincinnati ; T. Pringle
and Co., New-Orleans and Natchez ; John Tnorburn, St. Louis, Missouri ; and
other Seedsmen and Florists in various parrs of the United States \ also, by Book-
sellers in geueral.

1840.

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MXlfi

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[Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred
and Forty, by THOMAS BRIDGE MAN, in the Clerk's Office, of the
District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-
York.

PREFACE TO THE EIGHTH EDITION.

THE primary object in first publishing The Young
Gardeners Assistant, was to enable our respectable seeds-
men, while furnishing a catalogue of seeds for the use of
the Kitchen and Flower Garden, to afford instructions, a1
a trifling expense, to such of their customers as may not
have a regular gardener, and thereby save themselves the
blame of those who may not have given their seeds a fair
trial, for want of knowing how to dispose of them in the
ground.

In appearing before the public with this eighth edition of
the work, the Author cannot forbear to express his sense of
obligation to his patrons in general, and to his fellow-seeds-
men of New- York in particular, each of whom having by
the interest they have taken in circulating the book, evinced
their approbation of this humble attempt to serve both the
seedsman and the gardener, in supplying directions for the
management of a garden, in a manner calculated to insure
success.

Within the last ten years, upwards often thousand copie5
of previous editions have been issued from the seed store of
Mr. G. C. THORBURN, who has liberally subscribed for fifteen
hundred copies of this edition. The Boston and Philadel-
phia seedsmen have also contributed largely to its circulation ;
and the Author has been gratified by learning that his
labours are appreciated by eminent horticulturists, as the
following extracts will demonstrate : —

4t DEAR SIR, — You wifl see by the next month's New
Yurk Farmer, if you have not already seen by the Albany
papers, that several copies of your Young Gardener's
Assistant were given as PREMIUMS by the State Agricultural
Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the

665574

IV PREFACE.

committee for awarding premiums, and thought your work
was deserving encouragement, and, that even in this small
way, we might be of service in bringing it before the public

as WORTHY OF BEING GIVEN AS PREMIUMS.

" Yours, very respectfully,

*' ALEXANDER WALSH.
"Lansingburgh, November, 1835.

Extract from a review of this work in the Magazine of
Horticulture, Botany, fyc. published by HoveyfyCo. Boston:

" The work is written in plain language, easily to be
understood by the young beginner in gardening, who will
find it a great help ; and its value, even to the partly expe-
rienced person, is by na means of an ordinary character.
IT is ADAPTED TO OUR CLIMATE, anduiilike compilations from
English works, the novice is not led into disappointment
by following the rules there laid down, as he generally is,
when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that
as far as the book pretends, IT is WORTH ALL OTHERS OF A

SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN

THIS COUNTRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the
hands of all new beginners. "

It appears from an article in the New- York Farmer and
Horticultural Repository, that the first edition of the work
was noticed in France. The Editor informs us, in page
295 of the fourth volume, " That one of the leading articles
in the second number of the present volume of the Annales
de L? Institute, Royal Horticole de Fromont, is a long notice
of the Young Gardener's Assistant, by Mr. T. Bridgeman
of this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin,
speaks of the little work in very commendable terms."

Numerous other proofs could be adduced of the kind
reception the work has met. Suffice it to state, that it has
been extensively noticed, and recommended to public pa-
tronage, by editors of literary periodicals, and in many of
those publications devoted to agricultural and horticultural
pursuits, in various parts of this and other countries.

As the simplicity of cultivating the soil may lead many
to think, that a wayfaring man though a fool, could not.

PREFACE. V

easily err therein," it may be necessary to remind such,
that the vegetable productions of the earth, being natives of
various soils and climates, require peculiar management
when cultivated in climates different to those in which
nature first produced them ; and, that although many species
of plants in common use with us, will endure the heat of
our summers, others can only be raised in perfection during
mild and temperate weather, and some require artificial
means to be used out of the ordinary seasons for gardening
operations.

In the following pages, no efforts have been spared to
impart useful information on the several branches of horti-
culture. The directions for the cultivation of vegetables
are the result of twenty years' assiduous practice and
observation as a market gardener ; and it is presumed that
the Author's experience in other departments of gardening
has been sufficient to warrant him in this attempt to
instruct those who have not hitherto become acquainted
with the art. The Author considers it not derogatory to
acknowledge, that he has frequently compared his ideas with
those of other Authors, and that he has in some instances
availed himself of the benefit of their instructions ; but he
is not aware that in so doing, he has adopted any ideas
merely speculative ; to avoid which, he has invariably
submitted such manuscript to the scrutiny of experienced
gardeners of his acquaintance, and the result has generally
been such as to confirm him in his original positions.

It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this
work, that the Author in adopting the catalogue form, has
been enabled to give as much information as is necessary to
the cultivation of each particular kind of vegetable, in a
condensed form ; whereas, had he pursued the same course
as most of his- predecessors have done, his book would have
been considerably larger, and the reader must have been at
the trouble of perusing the greater part of it, at least twelve
times in the course of a year. The Author, however, being
aware of the convenience of a calendar, has in this edition
annexed one, which he presumes is well calculated not only

1*

VI PREFACE.

to assist the memory of the gardener, but to show him, at
one glance, the work necessary to be done in the various
departments of gardening in every month of the year.

The Author having shown his primary object in adopting
the catalogue form, presumes that his readers will not be
disappointed, if they do not find there the names of all the
species or varieties of plants they may wish to introduce
into their gardens, the mode of culture of such being gene-
rally alike. If a catalogue of this kind was essential,
it would occupy more space than is allotted for this book ;
besides it would be impossible to keep pace with our
enterprising horticulturists and florists, who are continually
introducing new species into our country. When, also, it
is considered that there are a number of indigenous plants
at present unknown to us, it will appear evident that the
most extensive catalogue would not be perfect in this respect
for any length of time; the Author, therefore,, thought it
unnecessary to attempt any thing more than that which Is
e.ssential to the attainment of a tolerable share of the pro-
ducts of the garden, by ordinary exertion. How far he has
succeeded in this respect, must be left for, the reader to
decide.

THOMAS BRIDGEMAN.

New York, January ', 1840.

%* Tjie reader's attention is solicited to the elucidation
immediately preceding the article Artichoke, relative to the
varied climates to. which, our directions are calculated to
apply.

This exposition particularly concerns such gardeners as
cultivate land in a temperature different to, that in, the
vicinity of New- York City,

GENERAL REMARKS

ON THE

MANAGEMENT OF A

BEFORE I commence the Catalogue, it may be necessary
for me to direct the reader's attention to some important
matters, essential to the good management of a Kitchen
garden.

The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of taste,
and may be left to the gardener himself; the form being a
thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege-
tables, or whether the ground be laid out in beds of four or
ten feet wide, provided it be well worked % and the garden
kept neat and free from weeds.

Those who have not a garden already formed, should,
however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep ; but as we
have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader to
that which is within the reach, and ought to be the object of
every man, namely, to make the most of what he has.

To this end, he may form, a border round the whole garden,
from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the piece
of land ; next to this border, a walk may be made from three
to six feet wide ; the centre part of the garden may be divi-
ded into squares, on the sides of which a border may be laid
out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds of
herbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants, Rasp-
berries, Strawberries, &,c. The centre beds may be planted
with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside bor-
ders facing the East, South and West, will be useful for
raising the earliest fruits and vegetables ; and the North
border, being shady and cool, will serve for raising, and
pricking out such young plants, herbs and cuttings, as require
screened from the intense heat of the, suiu

GENERAL REMARKS. $

It may be necessary to state further, that though shady
situations are useful for the purpose of raising Celery, Cab-
bage and other small plants, slips, &c. in the summer
»••» £Qason,»J;haj; ;all standard trees should be excluded from a.
* 'Ritchen^Xjartieivfor^ the following reasons : — First, their
.% 2 5 2J>et.§ .^fiffc&d so jtoidely, and imbibe so much moisture from
l*tfie grcrund,*thUt'littlelis left for the nourishment of any plant
within the range of their influence ; — Secondly, when in full
leaf,they shade a large space, and obstruct the free circulation
of the air, so essential to the well-being of all plants ; —
Thirdly, the droppings from trees are particularly injurious
to whatever vegetation they fall upon.

Previous to entering on the work of a garden, the
gardener should lay down rules for his future government.
In order to this, he should provide himself with a blank book.
In this he should first lay out a plan of his garden, allotting
a place for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends
to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his
grounds, if he were to keep an account of every thing he
does relative to his garden, he would soon obtain some
knowledge of the art. This the writer has done for the last
twenty years, and he flatters himself that a publication of
the results of his practice will be interesting and useful to
his readers.

If gardeners were to make it a rule to record the dates
and particulars of their transactions relative to tillage,
planting, &c., they would always know when to expect
their seeds to come up, and how to regulate their crops for
succession ; and, when it is considered that plants of the
Brassica, or cabbage tribe, are apt to get infected at the
roots, if too frequently planted in the same ground, and
that a rotation of crops in general is beneficial, it will appear
evident that a complete register of every thing relative to
culture is essential to the well-being of a garden.

One important point to be attended to, is to have a supply
of good old manure, and other composts, ready to incorporate
with the earth ; also a portion of ashes, soot, tobacco dust,
and lime, for the purpose of sowing over seed beds in dry

GENERAL REMARKS. 9"

weather ; this will tend in a great measure to destroy insects,
Which sometimes cut off the young plants as fast as they
come up.

If the ground cannot be all manured every year as it
should be, it is of primary importance that those vegetables
be provided for which most need manure. A perusal of the
catalogue will enable the young gardener to judge of the
kinds of garden products which require most. Lest I should
not have been explicit enough in this particular, I would
inform him that good rich manure is indispensably neces-
sary for the production of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage,
Lettuce, Spinage, Onions, Radishes, and Salads in general".

In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those kinds of
vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, may be provided
for by disposing of the manure immediately under the seeds
or plants.

The next important matter is to have the ground in suit-
able condition to receive the seed ; I wish it to be under-
stood that I am an advocate for early sowing- and planting,
even at the risk of losing a litlle seed, provided the ground"
be fit to receive it. A light sandy soil will be benefitted if
worked when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency
to make it more compact ; on the contrary, if a clay soil be
worked when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails
to bind when drought follows; and this not only prevents
the seed from rising, but injures the plants materially in
their subsequent growth, by its becoming impervious to the
moderate rains, dews, air, and influence of the sun, all of
which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation.

Some gardeners, as well as some writers, recommend cer-
tain fixed days for sowing and planting particular kinds of
seed ; I think it necessary to guard my readers from being'
misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the
observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of
seed be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will
become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they
be sown in very dry weather, the germinative parts of the
seed may become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or

10 GENERAL REMARKS.

the young plants may get devoured by insects as fast as
they corne up. To obviate these difficulties, I have generally
allowed a week or ten days for the sowing of seed,
intending the medium as the proper time for the vicinity of
New-York. With this clearly borne in mind, the reader
who observes the difference in the degrees of heat and cold
in the different parts ©f the country, will know how to apply
these instructions accordingly.

Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds of
soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, is
to give the former such dressings of clay, cow dung, and
other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and
make them more compact, and consequently more retentive
of moisture ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes,
sand, and such other composts as may tend to separate the
particles and open the pores of the clay, so as to cause it to
approach as nearly as possible to a loam.

The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less
retentive will it be of moisture ; the more to a clayey, the
longer will it retain it ; and the finer the particles of which
the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water,
and consequently be longer in drying, and the harder when
dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long-
est, without becoming hard when dry, is of all others, the
best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the
greatest perfection. This last described soil is called loam,
and is a medium earth, between the extremes of clay and
sand.

I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at
certain depths for the different kinds of seed ; and when I
have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is
intended that the seed should be covered only one inch,
which it will be when planted in these drills, and covered,
and so in proportion for any other depth required. This
may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum-
stances alter cases ; if, for instance, some particular crops
should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be
far advanced, to risk a further planting of seed, even if the

GENERAL REMARKS. 11

Weather be hot and the ground dry ; if this be»planted a
little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and
in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffici-
ently moist to bring it up ; whereas it sometimes happens
that^seed sown after a shower does not vegetate until after the
season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection.

The work of drilling by those who have no machine, may
be performed in various ways ; in some cases a plough is
used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge
of a board or line ; it is of little consequence which way the
work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener
to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that he be
provided with two or three drilling machines ; these, every
handy man may make for himself; they should be in the
form of a garden rake, with a stout heavy back, and five
teeth, two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the ground,
and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made with the
teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another fourteen,
they will be useful in making drills for various seeds; and
drills thus made serve instead of straining a line when trans-
planting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants, &c. the line being
stretched at one edge of the bed, and the drilling machine
drawn straight by the line, makes five drills at once. If they
are straight, they may be kept so, by keeping one drill open
for the outside tooth to work in, until the ground be all drilled.

Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed,
some do it with a hoe, others with a rake or harrow ; some
draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed; and after
sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed ; in some
particular cases a sieve is used, in others a roller. Rolling
or treading in seed, is necessary in dry seasons, but it should
never be done when the ground is wet.

There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips,
Cabbi^e, and other small plants, from the depredations o*
the fly, so well as rolling; for when the surface is rendered
completely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour
they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps
of earth. This method will be found more effectual than

12 GENERAL REMABKS.

soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants
with any composition whatever ; but as the roller must only
be used previous to, or at the time of sowing the seed, and not
even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the
gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry
weather, containing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime,
soot, cow dung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of
these ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious
or poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, thrown
into a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately
over beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost
every case, insure a successful crop.

Saltpetre is pernicious to many species of insects ; it is
also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan-
tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four
.gallons of water. This liquid applied to plants through the
rose of a watering pot, will preserve health and vigour. Soap
suds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the same
manner — say once a week. These remedies applied alter-
nately, have been known to restore Melon and Cucumber
vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight, &c.,
arid to keep plants in a thriving condition.

As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a
large piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects are nume-
rous, to sow tobacco dust mixed with road dust, soot, ashes,
lime, or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a
bushel per acre, every morning, until the plants are free or
secure from their attacks. Turnip seed will sometimes
sprout in forty-eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up
within a week after it is sown; but it sometimes happens
that the whole is destroyed before a plant is seen above
ground ; the seedsman, in this case, is often blamed without
a cause.

A correspondent has communicated the result of an ex-
periment he has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or
fleas, on turnips. He says, " steep your seed in a pint of
warm water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of
saltpetre ; then dry the seed, and add currier's oil sufficient

GENERAL REMARKS* 13

to wet the whole ; after which mix it with plaster of Paris,
so as to separate and render it fit for sowing." Fish oil is
known to be destructive to ants and various other small
insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants.

In the summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
&c. are particularly subject to the ravages of grubs and
caterpillars ; to prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible,
but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors;
this may be done, by searching for them on their first
appearance, and destroying them. Early in the morningj
grubs may be collected from the earth, within two or three
inches of such plants they may have attacked the night
previous.

The approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves
of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin,
by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed
on them; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the
dre, a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once ;
whereas, if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so
rapidly, that in a few days the plantation, however extensive,
waay become infested ; now, when once these arrive at the
butterfly or moth stage of existence, they become capable of
perpetuating their destructive race to an almost unlimited
extent. The same remarks apply to all other insects in a
torpid state.

Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away,
by sowing salt or lime in the spring, in the proportion of two
to three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally
with salt and water, to the quantity of about two pounds of
salt to fourgallons of water ; or the slug kind, may be easily
entrapped on small beds of plants, by strewing slices of
turnip on them late in the evening ; the slugs or snails will
readily croud on them, and may be gathered up early in the
morning (before sunrise) and destroyed.

Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing
the passage in their burrows with sticks smeared with tar.
First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur-
rows as a borer; then dip others in tar, and pass them
through into the floor of the burrows, being careful not to

2

14 GENERAL REMARKS.

wipe off the tar in the operation. Tar is also an effectual
remedy against smut in wheat — After being heated in a
kettle until it becomes thin, it may be stirred in amongst the
grain until it becomes saturated. The wheat should after-
wards be mixed with a sufficient quantity of wood ashes to
dry and render it fit for sowing.

To prevent depredations from crows, steep corn in strong
saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed corn,
and if the crows once get a taste, they will forsake the field.

Perhaps the next important point to be attended to, is the
most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who was a philoso-
pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that " THE TRUE

REPOSE OF THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS."

It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the
poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be stung
to death by its own venom. Hence it has been very gene-
rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vegeta-
bles have grown, and into which they have discharged the
excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the pros-
perity of plants of the same or allied species, though it be
quite adapted to the growth and support of other distinct
species of vegetables.

It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excel-
lent preparative for Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, and
all other tap, as well as tuberous-rooted vegetables.

Celery, or Potatoes, constitute a suitable preparative for
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica
tribe ; also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce and Onions,
provided that such ground be well situated, which is a cir-
cumstance always to be duly considered in laying out a
garden.

Lands that have long lain in pasture are for the first
three or four years after being tilled, superior for Cabbage,
Turnips, Potatoes, &c. and afterwards for culinary vege-
tables in general.

The following rules are subjoined for further government :

Fibrous-rooted plants may be alternated with tap^ of
tuberous-rooted, arid vice versa.

GENERAL REMARKS. 15

Plants which produce luxuriant tops, so as to. shade the
land, to be succeeded by such as yield small teps, or narrow
leaves.

Plants which during their growth require the operation
of stirring the earth, to precede such as do not admit of
such culture.

Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara-
gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain
long on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular rota-
tion of crops, for at least as long a period as it remained
under such permanent crops. Hence in all gardens ju-
diciously managed, the Strawberry bed is changed every
three or four years, till it has gone the circuit of all the
compartments ; and Asparagus beds, &c. should be re-
newed on the same principle, as often as they fail to produce
luxuriantly. Indeed, no two crops should be allowed to
ripen their seeds in succession in the same soil, if it can be
avoided ; because,, if it be not exhausted by such crops,
weeds will accumulate more than on beds frequently
cultivated.

Manure should be applied to the most profitable and
exhausting crops ; and the succession of crops should be
so arranged, that the ground be kept occupied by plants
either valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to
the increased value of those which are to follow; and the
value of the labour required to mature vegetables, and pre-
pare them for market, should be always taken into conr
sideration.

Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum,
Celery, Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley,
Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinage, &c. will not vegetate freely in
dry weather, unless the ground be watered or rolled;
where there is no roller on the premises, the following may
answer for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown
and the ground well raked, take a board (or boards) the
whole length of the bed, lay them flat on the ground, begin-
ning at one edge of the bed, walk the whole length of the,
ted, this will press the soil on the seed, then shift the boaads

16 GENERAL REMARKS.

till you have thus gone over the whole bed. In the absence
of boards^ tread in the seed with your feet, or strike an the
beds with the back of your spade or shovel.

If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in dry weather,,
it is recommended to soak the seed in \vater, and to dry
it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive watering, will
cause the seed to vegetate speedily.

If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the
ground is dry, the transplanting should be always done as
soon as the earth is fresh turned over, and the roots of the
plants should be steeped in mud made of rich compost,
before they are set out.

I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in
drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference
to sowing broad cast, because the weeds can be more easily
destroyed by means of a small hoe; and which, properly
used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants.

The following table may be useful to the gardener, m
showing the number of plants, or trees, that may be raise^
on an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under-
mentioned distances.

Distance apart No. of Plants Distance apart No. ofPlanta-

1 foot .... 43,560 9 feet 537

1£ feet .... 19,360 12 feet 362

2 feet ,- f ; * . 10,890 15 feet 193

2J feet .... 6,969 18 feet 134

3 feet . . v: . 4.840 21 feet 98

4 feet 2,722 24 feet 75

5 feet. .... 1,742 27 feet 59

6 feet 1,210 30 feet ..... 4S

The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are
not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden* as it shows

GENERAL REMARKS. 17

at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares
of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows
that if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty
feet apart, that there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet
square, or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from
the same quantity of land. An allowance of about ope-
eighth must, however, be made from the above calculation
for walks and paths.

The table may also serve to show the gardener how to
dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotr
ted for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three
hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve
feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure
to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same
distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred loads
be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into three
heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load
must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to
the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose to
drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may
make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred
and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land ; in which case,
by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only
forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the
quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap
to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions,
so as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of ma-
nure he may allot to any given quantity of ground.

As it may not be generally known that some species of
seeds are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner
than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule
for the gardener's government, provided the seeds are care-
fully preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or
dampness : —

Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light scalerlike seeds, cannot
be safely trusted after they are a year old.

Beans and Peas of different species, Capsicum, Carrot,

2*

18 GENERAL KEMABKS.

Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonens,
and small Herb seeds in general, may be kept two years.

Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let-
tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret and Spinach seed, may with
care be preserved three years.

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish,
and Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to.

Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin and Squash,
also Burnet, Chervil, and Sorrel Seed, have been known to
grow freely when five and even seven years old j but it is
not prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness
of which we are not certain.

In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to
raise seed either for their own use or for the market, I
would observe that great care is necessary, as it is an indu-
bitable fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near
each other, degeneracy will be the consequence,' it is,
therefore, difficult for any one man to raise all sorts of seed,
good and true to their kind, in any one garden.

If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for
seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once planted for seed
some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they
had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour,
they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed, and as
this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like
cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal
frame, so it is in the vegetable system — disorders rery
frequently lay dormant from one generation to another, and
at length break out with all their vigour ; I would therefore
advise seed growers not to attempt to " bring a clean thing
out of an unclean," but if they find a mixture of varieties
amongst their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they wilJ
infallibly have spurious s^ed

(t/5* In order to aid th«- novice in gardening, the following
brief classification of such .>peci- s and varieties as comprise
our catalogue of vegetable ;«t( ds is subn itted, and it is pre-
sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this
table will not be altogether uninteresting 10 the experienced
gardener and xced^iun u

CATALOGUE.

Half Hnrfly.

Tender.

Quick
in germinating.

Mr din 111

in germinating.

Tnray
in germinating.

Cnpnble of being
transplanted.

Artichoke, . .

0

.

.

0

0

Asparagus, . 0

' ' ,

.

.

0

0

Beans, (Eng. dwarfs) 0

" '.

.

.

0

0

Beans, (Kidney do.)

.

0

0

.

.

Beans, pole,

•

0

0

.

A

Beet, . . • .

0

''. •

• ".

0 ""[

*•? •-

Borecole or Kale, &c.,

0

..

0

• -*^'":'

0

Broccoli, *% .

0

'•" ',

0

.

0

Cauliflower,

0

.

0

.

0

Cabbage, ,

to

.

0

. .

0

Carrot,

0

,

.

0

. .

Celery,

0

•

V •

0

0

Corn Salad, f 0

.

\ '.

• ,

. 0

. ,.

Cress, . .

0

•

0

• • - ,

,,

Cucumber, • .'

.

0

0

' •» . •

.

Egg Plant, . v.

.

0

.

0

0

Endive, *

0

0

.

0

Indian Corn, . *. '

.

0

0

m " .

,±

Leek, '7 . ' 0

.

• '

0

0

Lettuce, . "• '

0

.

0

'••'•;»

0

Melon, ••-; •'.-- .

.

0

0

*-•'.

.

Okra, . v ;-

.

0

V

0

.

Onion, .- ." 0

. ! -^. ,

• ''V '

• *""

0

' .«

Parsley, . - " * • 0

•-

- - V '•

' : •- ''

0

*;

Parsnip, . > 0

.

: '•'"

•i -'

0

;' *

Peppers, . V

.

0

'•'f *

0

0

Peas, . .v 0

.

.

.

o . ':

.

Pumpkin, . .

.

0

0

' •* *•'•

.

Radish,

0

.

0

;• '

.

Salsify, . . 0

.

.

0

.

.

Spinach, . . 0

•

.

.

0

9

0

0

0

Tomatoe,

.

0

0

. .

0

Turnip, . • •

0

•

0

.

• v

Herbs iu general,

.

0

•

^ 0

0

20 GENERAL REMARKS.

In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to
premise, that in the classification, as respects different seeda
germinating, it is conceded that if some of those denomi-
nated medium were put upon an equal footing with some of
the class denominated quick-growing, they would vegetate in
about the same time. For instance, Peas would sprout as
quick as Kidney Beans in equal temperature ; but Peas,
being hardy, are generally planted a month earlier in the
season. If Beans were planted at the same time, they would
rot for want of genial heat necessary to their germinating.
Many of the species denominated medium and tardy,
require considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when
not attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total
failure, are the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however,
generally obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such
seeds at the most favourable seasons. Those who delay
sowing Carrot, Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip,
Spinach, &c. until dry summer weather, render themselves
liable to disappointment and loss thereby.

As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed
to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such
of their error, offer a few observations under each head of
the table.

The first and second classes, denominated hardy and half
hardy, are subjected to risk in unpropitious seasons, from
unfitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by
cold rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed survive
a severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it
is frequently subjected early in the season. Some species
of plants that in an advanced stage of growth will stand a
hard winter, are often cut off" by very slight frost while
germinating, especially if exposed to heat of the sun after
a frosty night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot,
Celery, Turnip, and many other growing plants, which
survive the ordinary winters of England, are here classed
as half hardy, fur the reasons above stated.

The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish

GENERAL REMAEK3. 21

from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often
to be replanted three or four times in the month of May,
before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg Plants,
Tomato Plants, &c.. are also often cut off by variableness of
the weather ; indeed it is unreasonable to expect natives of
tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse to
that in which nature first produced them, unless protected
or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under
the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender
things in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile
themselves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather,
instead of throwing blame on the seedsman.

The fourth class, embracing such species and varieties,
as from their nature are apt to vegetate quickly, are very
liable to be devoured by insects before they make any show
on the surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout
within forty-eight hours after being sown ; and under fa-
TOurable circumstances, most of the species of this class
will come up within a week; but if insects attack the seed
beds in dry weather, a total loss of crops will be the conse-
quence. Every experienced farmer is convinced of this
fact, by having frequently to sow his turnip ground three or
four times before he can get any to stand.

Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to
grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener
should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in
general, and especially to those in which plants are raised for
the purpose of being transplanted.

Those species and varieties, embraced in the fifth and sixth
columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to
vegetate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded
by cold, others by excess of dry weather ; and at such times,
seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the event
of drought after heavy rains, seed and young plants often
perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other unto-
ward circumstances which can neither be controlled or accoun-
ted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gardener. It
must, however, be conceded, that failures often occur, through

22 GENERAL REMARKS.

seed being deposited too deep in the ground, or left too
near the surface ; sometimes, for want of sufficiency of seed
in a given spot, solitary plants will perish, they not having
sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and very
frequently injudicious management in manuring and prepa-
ring the soil will cause defeat.

I have been induced to expatiate, and in the seventh
range of the preceding table, to designate such plants as are
generally cultivated, first in seed beds, and afterwards
transplanted for the purpose of being accommodated with
space to mature in, with a view to answer at once the
thousand and one questions asked by ' inexperienced culti-
vators, at my counter.

Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of
raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed,
when an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For
example, one ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand
plants. An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three
to four thousand, sufficient when transplanted to cover
nearly half an acre of land, which land, if sown with
Spinach, for instance, would require from four to six pounds
of seed.

To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would
observe in conclusion, that many other vegetables would
admit of being transplanted besides those designated in our
table ; but as there is considerable risk and trouble, insepa-
rable from the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless
there are paramount advantages to be gained, the reverse of
which would be the case, under ordinary circumstances,
with the generality of those plants not thus designated.

Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall
for the future follow the example of the truly eccentric
Abernethy, refer all enquirers for information to my books,
which contain an answer to every important question that
has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I
became an author.

T. BRIDGEMAP*.

New-York^ January, 184Q.

* 23

CATALOGUE,

&c. &c.

%* Previous to the commencement of our Catalogue,
it may be necessary to remind the reader, that the
directions which follow, are founded on the results of
practical experience in the vicinity of NEW-YORK Cm,
where the soil is generally susceptible of gardening ope-
rations towards the end of March. These directions may,
however, be applied to all other parts of the UNITED STATES,
by a minute observance of the difference in temperature.

In the extreme northern parts of the State of New- York,
as well as in all other places similarly situated, the direc-
tions for the beginning of April may apply to the latter end
of the same month, with very few exceptions.

In our SOUTHERN STATES, the directions for APRIL,
which may be considered as the first gardening month in the
EASTERN, WESTERN and MIDDLE STATES, will apply to
January, February, or to whatever season gardening ope-
rations may commence in the respective States.

In the varied climates of each particular State, if the
same rule of application be pursued to the end of the
Calendar, success is certain.

ARTICHOKE.
ARTICHAUT. Cynara.

VARIETIES.

Cynara Scolymus, or French.- | Cynara Hortensis, or Globe.

THE garden Artichoke, a native of the South of Europe,
is much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It is
a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its large
squamose heads, in full growth, in June or July, until Octo-

24 ARTICHOKE.

her or November. The Globe Artichoke, which producer
large globular heads, is best for general culture, the heads
being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick
and plump.

Both sorts may be raised from the seed, or young suckers
taken from old plants in the spring. A plantation of
Artichokes will continue to produce good heads six or seven
years, and sometimes longer; but it must be observed, that
if a supply of this delicious vegetable be required through-
out the season, a small plantation should be made from
suckers every spring, for a successive crop, as the young
plants will continue to produce their heads in perfection,
after the crops of the old standing ones are over.

The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes
from seed, is to sow the seed the latter end of March, or
early in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may be
planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches
apart. The ground should be light and moist, not such as
is apt to become bound up by heat, or that in consequence
of too large a proportion of sand, is likely to become vio-
lently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to these
plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept free
from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them.

Thebjsiness of transplanting may be performed in cloudy
or wet weather, at any time after the plants are from nine to
twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and
situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and
trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep,
incorporating the manure therewith ; this being done, take
up the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and
dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in rows five
feet asunder, and two feet plant from plant in the row, leav-
ing part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of
the plants free from any earth over them, and give each
plant a little water to settle the roots.

The winter dressing of Artichokes is an important opera-
tion ; on it depends much of their future success. This
should not be wiven them as long as the season continues

ARTICHOKE. 25

mild, that they may have all possible advantage of growth,
and be gradually inured to the increasing cold weather ;
but it should not be deferred too late, lest by the sudden set-
ting in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Nor-
thern States ; the work be neglected, and the plants
consequently exposed to devastation and loss.

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the
ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the hearts
of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a trench in the
middle, between e;ich row, from fourteen to sixteen inches
wide, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed.
Then lightly dig the surface of the beds from trench to
trench, burying the weed.*, and as you proceed, gather the
warth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about
six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising
leaves, without burying them entirely under it; this done,
dig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the «arth
equally between and on e;ich side of the plants, so as to
level the ridges, giving them at the same time a neat round-
ing form ; finish, by casting up with a shovel the loose earth
out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in
order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c. may
immediately run oft'; on which account the trenches ougiit
to have a gentle declivity, as the lodgement of water about
the roots in winter, is the greatest evil and danger they have
to encounter, even greater than the most severe frosts to
which we are subject

Tiie beds are to remain so, uniil there is an appearance of
hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung,
Utter, leaves of trees, or the like, the better to preserve the
crowns and roots from its rigour. In this manner, the roots
will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the
very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and
when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above
ground, or rather one or two inches up, then, and not before,
proceed to levelling down the beds into the alleys or
trenches, rounding them in a neat manner; then dig in the
short manure, and loosen all the earth around the plant*

3

26 ' ARTICHOKE.

At the same time, examine the number of shoots ari-
sing on each stool, selecting three of the strongest and
healthiest-looking on every stool to remain ; all above that
number afre to be slipped off close to the roots with the hand,
unless you want such to make new plantations with, in
which case any extra number for that purpose are to remain
on the parent plants, until they are about eight or ten
inches high from their roots, or junction with the old plants*
when they are to be slipped off, and planted in a bed pre-
pared in the same manner as directed for the young plants,
taking care at the same time to close the earth about the
crowns of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remain-
ing suckers.

Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants
are in the above described state, whetber that happens in
February, March or April, occasioned by the difference of
climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late-
ness of the spring.

The gardeners, near London, generally take off the side
suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size
of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar-
kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger
and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Anti-
choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it
should always be cut off before the flower appears in the
centre ; the stem should be cut close to the ground at the
same time.

Artichokes are esteemed as a luxury by epicures. To
have them in perfection, they should be thrown into cold
water as soon as gathered, and after having been soajaed
and well washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot,
with a little salt, arid kept boiling until tender, which gene-
rally takes, for full grown Artichokes, from an hour and a
half to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them ;
then serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and
such other condiment as may best suit the palate.

27
ASPARAGUS.

ASPERGE. Asparagus ojficinalis.

VARIETIES.

Gravesend. I Large Battersea.

Large White Reading. Large German, or Giant.

This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found
growing wild in Russia and Poland, where it is eaten by the
cattle as grass. It will endure the severity of our winters,
and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild ; but as
garden products are generally scarce after a hard winter, the
gardener who studies his interest will make the most of the
spring season, and raise all he can before the market*
become glutted ; to this end, he is recommended to prepare
for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of the
winter is past. — (See article on Forcing Vegetables.)

Asparagus plants may be raised by sowing the seed in
the fall as soon as ripe, or in March, and the early part of
April. It requires some of the best ground in the garden.
The seed may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asun-
der, and covered half an inch with light earth. When the
plants are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if culti-
vated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough
to transplant when they are a year old. Some keep them in
the nursery bed until two years old.

A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed
every year, will continue to produce good buds for twenty
years or more.

New plantations of Asparagus may be made in Autumn,
or before the buds get far advanced in Spring, say February,
March, or April, according to situation and circumstances.
The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or
stubborn, but such as is moderately light and pliable, so
as it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and
in a situation that enjoys the full sun. It should have
a large supply of good rotten dung, three or four inches
thick, and then be regularly trenched two spades deep,

28 ASPARAGUS.

and the dung buried equally in each trench twelve or
fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is-
done, lay on two or three inches of well rotted manure all
over the surface, and dig the ground over again eight or
ten inches deep, mixing this Jop dressing, and incorporating
it well with the earth.

In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground
thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four
rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide between
each bed. Strain your line along the bed six inches from
the edge ; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill
close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side
next the line nearly upright, and when one trench is opened,
plant that before you open another, placing the plants
upright ten or twelve inches distance in the row, and let
every row be twelve inches apart.

The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the
trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that
the crown of the plants, may also stand upright, and two or
three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading
their roots somewhat regularly against the back of the
trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up
against them with the hand as you place them, just to fix
the plants in their due position until the row is planted ;
when one row is thus placed, with a rake or hoe draw the
earth into the trench over the plants, and then proceed to
open another drill or trench, as before directed ; and fill and
cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole is
plan'edr; then let the surface of the beds be raked smooth
and clear from stones, &c»

Some gardeners, with a view to have extra large heads,
place their plants sixteen inches apart in the rows, instead
of twelve, and by planting them in the quincunx manner,
that is, by commencing the second row eight inches from
the end of the first; and the fourth even with the second,
the plants will form rhomboidal squares, instead of rectan-
gular ones, and every plant will thus have room to expand
its roots and leaves luxuriantly.

ASPARAGUS.

29

The above directions are intended for family gardens.
Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities
for market, should prepare the ground with a plough/and
plant two rows in each bed, which may be carried to any
length required. If several beds are intended, they may be
planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that
the plough may be worked freely between them. Frequent
ploughing will cause the roots to spread, so as to widen the
beds, and the winter dressing may be performed in a great
measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is eut, the
ground between the beds may be ploughed, and planted
with Cabbage, Potatoes, or any other vegetable, usually cul-
tivated in rows.

Winter Dressing of Asparagus Beds.
About the begining of November, if the stalks of your
Asparagus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having
finished their growth for the season, cut them down close to
the earth, carry them off the ground, and clear the beds
carefully from weeds.

Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good
manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or tliree
inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the purpose,
(which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite
down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots
will be greatly benefitted ; as the winter rams will wash the
manure down amongst them. It is the practice with some
gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn dressing, and
to cover the beds with the soil so taken out ; this may be
done for the first two years after the beds are made, but not
afterwards ; as, when the plants are in full growth, their
roots and crowns extend into the alleys, and the digging
them out frequently destroys plants, or renders them too
weak to produce buds in perfection. The beds will be
greatly benefitted if covered to the depth of several inches
with leaves, sea-weed, or long litter from the livery stables.

The seedling Asparagus should also have a slightdress-
iag, t4iat is> to clear the bed from weeds, and then to spread

*3

30 ASPARAGUS.

an inch or two in depth of light dung over it, to defend the
crown of the plants from frost.

Spring Dressing of the Beds.

This work should be done from about the latter end of
March, to the middle of April, or just before* the buds begin
to rise. After clearing away all the long litter, or whatever
may incumber the ground, spread the short dung over the
whole surface, and dig it in : if the alleys be dug at the
same time, it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care
must be taken at this season not to wound the crowns with
the tines of the fork, but forking the beds should not be
neglected ; as the admitting of sun arid rain into the ground,
induces the plants to throw up buds of superior size ; to
promote such a desirable object, the ground should be kept
clear of weeds at all seasons, as these greatly impoverish,
and frequently smother the plants.

The gardeners of Knghind raise Asparagus in great per-
fection ; and sometimes have buds weighing from three to
five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Encyclopajdia of
Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely
under this crop for the London markets.

Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to
cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of
planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three or
four inches high, they will bear extensive cutiing, which
should, however, be discontinued when no large buds are
thrown up. The best way of cutting, is to slip the knife
down perpendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off
slantingly, about three or four inches within the ground,
taking care not to wound any younjj buds coming from the
same root, for there are always several shools advancing in
different stages o£ growth.

Asparagus is considered a wholesome vegetable, and
should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well
washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds
each, and boiled in water, seasoned with salt, until tender,

BEANS. 31

which will be in about twenty minutes ; take it up before it
loses its true colour and flavour, and serve up on toasted
bread, with melted butter, £c.

BEANS, (English Dwarfs.)
FETE DE MARAIS. Vicia faba.

VAKIETIES.

Early Mazagan.
Early Lisbon.
Early Long Pod.
Large Windsor.
Large Toker.
Broad Spanish-

Sandwich Bean.
Greeen Genoa.
Dwarf Cluster.
White Blossom.
Green Nonpareil.
Sword Long Pod.

THE principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed-
ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them
before they are podded, causing the blossom to drop off"
prematurely ; to obviate this difficulty, they should be
planted as early in the year as possible ; as recommended
in the article, " Forwarding Broad Beans." They are gene-
rally planted in England, from October to April, for early
crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It some-
times happens that autumn plantings are injured by the
extremity of their winters, but they never miss having an
average crop.

In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if a few of
the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open
ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into
good condition, they will come into bearing in regular suc-
cession, according to their different degrees of earliness,
and plantings may be repeated every ten days of the first
spring month ; but it is only from those that are planted
early, that any tolerable produce can be expected, as they
become deficient in quality, as well as in quantity, on the
approach of extreme warm weather.

In the Southern States, they may be planted in succession
throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause
them to bear early in the ensuing season.

32 BEANS.

The best mode of planting is in drills, drawn two inches
deep, in which the seed beans may be dropped two or three
inches apart, according to their size, and the drills may be
from two to three feet assunder. A strong clayey soil is the
most suitable ; but they often do well in moderately light
ground, provided it be well trodden, or rolled, after the
beans are planted.

As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they
will need a careful hoeing, and if some earth be drawn up to
their stems, three or four times in the course of their growth,
it will greatly refresh and strengthen them.

When they arrive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin
to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the
proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as well
as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops to
nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the support of
the fruit.

Broad Beans are particularly subject to green bugs.
Tobacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them ;
but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance,
and to pick off that part on which they first settle, and burn
it; or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they
will produce fresh shoots which may bear a good crop.

One quart of seed Beans will be required for every sixty
feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about
two inches apart, and the largest four inches,

The Beans should be gathered young, and shelled while
fresh. After having been washed, let them be boiled in
plenty of water with a little salt and a bunch of green
parsley. They take from thirty to forty minutes boiling,
according to age, and may be served up with melted butter,
gravy, &c. ; but they are very good when cooked and eaten
with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon..

33

BEANS. (Kidney Dwarf.)
HARICOT. Phascolus vulgaris^ etc.

TARIETIES.

Early Mohawk.

Early Valentine.

Early Yellow Six Week?.

Early Dun-Colored, or Quaker.

Early China Dwarf.

Quails' Head.

Early Rob Roy.

Early Black Dwarf.

Large White Kidney Dwarf.

White Cranberry Dwarf

Red Cranberry Dwarf.

Yellow Cranberry Do.

vv arrington, or Marrow.

Refugee, or Thou and to One.

Marble ^wi-s Bean.

Royal Dwarf Kidney, or Frenah.

These varieties of Beans being natives of India, South
America, and other warm climates, will not endure the least
cold, it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in the
open ground until settled warm weather. The earliest
varieties if planted towards the end of April, or the first week
in May, will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks
after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer
in bearing, and are esteemed by some on that account.
These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted'
In the months of May and June, and if a regular succession?
of young Beans be required throughout the summer, some
of the varieties should be planted every two weeks, from
the last week in April until the beginning of August.

These Beans require a light rich soil, in which they should
be planted in hills, three or four in a hill, or drills about two
inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each
other; the drills may be fn>m two to three feet apart. The
Refugees are best planted in hills. As the Beans progress in
growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some earth up to
their stems at the same time, which will cause them to be
soon fit for the table.

Many gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to
begin planting too soon in the season, and very frequently
lose their first crops. It should be recollected, that these
Beans are next to Cucumbers and Melons for tenderness^
and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the planting
be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk

84 BEANS.

is the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted
about the middle of April.

One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from three hundred
and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the
Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two
hundred and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row,
allowing six Beans to every foot.

These Beans should not be suffered to get old and tough
before they are gathered; be careful in trimming them, lo
strip off the strings ; to effect this desirable object, break
them across ; and, in order to preserve their greenness, soak
them in salted water for a short time, then put them into
the water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned
with salt. When they are tender, which will be in from
fifteen to twenty minutes, take them up, and drain them
through a colander, in order to render them capable of
absorbing a due share of gravy, melted butter, &c.

BEANS. (Pole or Running.)
HARICOTS A RAMES.

Phaseolus jLimensis.

VARIETIES.

Lar^e White Lima. | Carolina, Lima, or Sky.

Phaseolus MuUiflorus.

VARIETIES.

Scarlet Runners London Horticultural.

White Dutch Runners. French Bicolour.

Dutch Case Knife, or Princess. 1 Red Cranberry.

Asparagus, or Yard Long. White Cranberry,

These species and varieties of Beans may be planted early
in the month of May, and in June, either in hills three feet
distant from each other, or in drills about two inches deep,
and the beans two or three inches apart in the drills. The
poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in
the ground before the Beans are planted.

The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in
the open ground until the second week in May, unless the

BEANS. 35

season be very favourable, and the ground warm. • As these
Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let
six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole,
and afterwards thinned, leaving three or four good plants
in a hill, which hills should be full four feet distance from
each other, every way.

The soil for running Beans should be the same as for
Dwarfs, except the Lima, which require richer ground than
any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost,
mixed with the earth in each hill, would be beneficial.

If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons,
they may be planted in flower pots in April, and placed in
a greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in
May, with the balls of earth entire, will come into bearing
ten or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first
instance, are planted in the natural ground.

It will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant one
hundred hills. A quart of the smallest sized Pole Beans
will plant three hundred hills and upwards, or about two
hundred and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go
about as far as the Lima Beans.

Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled fa
plenty of water until tender, which generally takes from
fifteen to twenty minutes. Some cook the ripe Beans in
winter, in which case they should be soaked in soft water
for a few hours, and then put into the water cold, and boiled
until tender, with a little salt ; but salted meat being boiled
with them answers the same purpose, and makes them
sweeter and more wholesome. The mode of cooking the
other sorts* is the same as Kidney Dwarfs.

36

BEET.

BETTERAVE. Beta vulgaris.

VARIETIES.

Early Blood Turnip-rooted.
Early Long Blood.
Extra Dark Blood
Yellow Turnip-rooted.

Early Scarcity.
Mangel Wurtzel.
French Sugar or Ambef .
Sir John Sinclair's.

BEETS, in their several varieties, are biennial, and the best
blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their roots,
which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable for
pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced,
make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants
are an excellent substitute for Spinach.

The Mangel Wur.lzel, Scarcity, and Yellow Turnip Beets,
are cultivated for cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves
and roots with great avidity. They are excellent food for
swine, and also for milch cows ; and possess the quality of
making them give a large quantity of the best flavoured
milk.

A small bed of the earliest Turnip-rooted, and other
esteemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early
ground the first week of April, which being well attended to
will produce good roots in June.

Draw drills a foot apart, and about two inches deep ; drop
the seed along the drills one or two inches from each
other, and cover them with the earth. When the plants a»e
up strong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches
from each oilier in the rows. The ground should be after-
wards hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds.

if the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed
until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better
than those from the earliest planting, which, from being fre-
quently stunted in growth by the various changes of weather,
become tough, stringy, and of unhandsome shape. In case
of failing crops, Beet seed planted the first week in July, will
sometimes produce large handsome roots, which may be pre-
served for Winter use.

BORECOLE, OR KALE. 37

The most suitable ground for Beets, is that which may
have been well manured for previous crops, and would re-
quire no fresh manure, provided it be well pulverized.

It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops are
used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for this
purpose, or they will greatly injure the roots of those that are
to stand. Beds that are to stand through the Summer, should
be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended
for Winter use should be taken up in October, or early in
November, and stowed away as directed in the calendar for
those months.

Allowing Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan,
it will require at the rate often pounds for an acre of land,
which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce
for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field
system, one half the quantity of seed will be sufficient, or
even less, if sown regular. If it be an object with the
gardener to save his seed, he may plant two or three seeds
in each spot where a plant is required, and thin them as
before directed.

It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed
will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains
four or five small seeds, thinning out the surplus plants is
indispensible to the production of good roots;

BORECOLE, OR RALE.

CHOU FRISE VERT. Brassica oleracea, etc.

VARIETIES.

Green Curled, or ?cotch. .
Dwarf Brown, or German.
Purple Fringed.

Jerusalem, or Buda.

Cesarean Kale.

'i housand-headed Cabbage.

There are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants
besides those above specified, most of which have large open
heads, with curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or
Finely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Europe for the
table ; and the coarse and tali growing are considered pro-

4

38 BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

fitable for cattle. The Thousand-headed Cabbage^ and
Cesarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high, and branch
out from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves
and sprouts in the Winter and Spring.

For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in
every respect as Winter Cabbages. The seeds may be sown
from about the middle of May to the first week in June* and
the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich
ground. They are never so delicious as when rendered
tender by smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate?
particularly in the more Southerly States, as they will there
be in the greatest perfection during the winter months ;
they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered
warm situation, bear the winters of the Western States ; and
may be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if
taken up before the frost sets in with much severity, and
placed in trenches up to their lower leaves, and then covered
with straw or other light covering: the heads may be cutoff*
as they are required for use ; and in the spring, the stems
being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious
greens.

One ounce of good Borecole seed will produce about four
thousand plants, and may be sown in a border four feet by
ten, or thereabouts.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

CHOU DE BRUXELLES AGETS. Brassica oleracea.

This plant frequently grows from three to five feet high,
and produces from the stem small heads resembling cab-
bages in miniature, each being from one to two inches in
diameter. The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when
planted late. The sprouts are used as winter greens, and
they become very tender when touched with the frost.

The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the
same manner as Borecole, and the plants set out with a

BROCCOLI. 39

dibble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be i»
every respect as for Borecole.

Some gardeners, with a view to furnish the New-York
markets with greens early in the spring season, when vege-
tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rape,
Brassica Rapus ; it being a good substitute for Brussels
Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter.
If Rape seed be sown early in September, the plants will
survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or
sprouts early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is
susceptible of cultivation in the Spring, say the last week in
March. The sprouts should be cut while young, as such
greens then command the best prices, and are more palatable
than when far advanced in growth.

It may be necessary to add, that in cooking these sprouts,
as also Kale, Colewort, and greens in general, they should
be put into hot water, seasoned with salt, and kept boiling
briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve their
natural colour, put a small Jump of pearlash into the water,
which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more ten-
der in the absence of salted meat.

BROCCOLI.

CHOU BROCOLI. Brassica oleracea Italica.

VARIETIES.

•ly
rlv

Early Dwarf Purple.
Early Green.
Dwarf Brown.
Large Late Purple

Lanre Purple Cape
White Cape, or Cauliflower.
Sulphur Coloured Cape.
Branching Purple.
Large Late Green.

The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be
justly ranked among the greatest luxuries of the garden.
They need only be known in order to be esteemed. The
Broccoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich seedy
pulp like the Cauliflower, only that some are of a green
colour, some purple, some brown ,, &c. and the white kinds-

40 BROCCOLI.

so exactly resemble the true Cauliflower, as to be scarcely
distinguished either in colour or taste.

Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater
part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as
Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the Purple Cape
Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of Ame-
rica ; but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly
abandoned, on account of the ill success attending former
attempts to bring them to perfection.

In some of the Southern States, where the winters are
not more severe than in England, they will stand in the
open ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from
November to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle
States, if the seeds of'the late kinds be sown in April, and
the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated
in the same manner as Cauliflower plants, it would be the
most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers;
but as only a part of these crops can be expected to come
to perfection before the approach of winter, the remainder
will have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered
with earth up to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situa-
tion, to promote the finishing of their growth.

Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli-
flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varieties
in succession, should have places erected similar to some
of our greenhouses: the back and roof may be made of
refuse lumber, which being afterwards covered with fresh
stable dung, will keep out the frost. The place allotted for
Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should have a glazed roof to
face the south — the sashes must be made to take off in mild
weather, but they should be always kept shut in severe cold
weather, and covered with mats, or boards, litter, &c., so
( fleet u ally as to keep out the frost.

The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved without
glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in
extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh
stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it will
lie necessary to keep the full power of the sun from comin g

BROCCOLI. 41

on them until they be thawed ; this may be done by shaking
a little straw on the bed as they lay.

It may, perhaps, be not generally understood, that the
sudden transition from cold to heat, is more destructive to
vegetables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get
frozen, and cannot be screened from the sudden rays of the
sun, they should be well watered as the air gets warm, and
before they begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and
may be the means of saving the plants.

The proper time for sowing seed of the Purple Cape
Broccoli, is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May :*
those who intend-to provide a place for the winter keeping of
the other kinds, may sow seeds of the most esteemed varieties
at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a
week apart.

In order to insure good stout plants, let the seed at this
season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best
sown in shallow drills, drawn three or four inches apart, in
which case one ounce of seed will occupy a border of about
four feet in width by twelve in length, and produce about
four thousand strong plants.

In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of
sufficient size, they should be transplanted into extraordi-
nary rich ground, which should be brought previously into
good condition. This being done, plant them in rows two
feet and a half apart, and two feet distance in the rows.

* It has been proved by repeated experiments, that the Purple Cape
Broccoli succeeds better in our climate than any other variety; and,
also, that if Broccoli or Cauliflower plants be retarded in growth by
extreme heat, they seldom arrive st good perfection. It is, therefore,
important that the'tirae of sowinj the seed of Cape Broccoli be so regu-
lated as to allow, say six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, .
previous to their bein^ transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks
between then and the commencement of cool autumn weather, which
i* essential to mature them.

If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so early that the
plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become
stunted, they generally button, instead of formingj>erfect heads of flower*,
and are consequently of no use but for cattle.

In some of the Southern States, latej planting of Broccoli and
Cauliflower, succeeds better than early, because the winters are calcu-
lated to mature these vejretables,'from their not being subject to injury
by slight frost, in a late eta^e of their growth.

4*

42 CAULIFLOWER.

As- soon as they have taken root, give the ground a deep
hoeing, and repeat this two or three times in the course of
their growth, drawing some earth around their stems.

Some of the Cape Broccoli, if attended to as directed,
will come to perfection early in September and [in October;
the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes-
sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to
their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial
climate be provided for them. These, of course, with
whatever may remain of the Cape Broccoli, will have to
be taken up early in October, and laid in carefully with
the roots and stems covered with earth as far as their lower
leaves. Those who have not a place provided, may keep
a few in frames, or in a light cellar; but every gardener
and country gentleman should have suitable places erected
for a vegetable that yields such a delicious repast, at a time
when other luxuries of the garden are comparatively out of
our reach.

CAULIFLOWER.

CHOUFLEUR. Brassica oleracea botryth,

VARIETIES.

Early White | Late White.

Hardy Red> or Purple Cauliflower.

THIS is a first-rate vegetable : to obtain which, great pains
must be taken in every stage of its growth, the extremes of
heat and cold being very much against it: which circum-
stance accounts for good Cauliflowers being scarcely attain-
able in unpropitious seasons, and which the novice falsely
attributes to defectiveness of the seed.

To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown
between the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in
a bed of clean rich earth. In about four or five weeks after-
wards, the plants should be pricked out into another bed,
at the distance of four inches from each other every way}
this bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered

CAULIFLOWEH. 43

with glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should
be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken
root ; they will afterwards require light and air every mild
day throughout the winter; but the outsides of the frames
must he so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so
covered as to keep out all frost.

The plants should be well attended to until the time of
transplanting in the spring; and these who have not hand
or bell gfasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the
latter end of March, should have a frame ready about the
last week in February, in order that they may be trans-
planted to the distance of eight or nine inches apart; this
would prevent them from buttoning, or growing up weak ;
if this be not done, some of the strongest plants should be
taken out of the beds and planted in flower pots, which
nray be afterwards placed in a frame or greenhouse, until
the weather be warm and settled, which may be expected
soon after the middle of April. They should be then
turned out with the balls of earth entire, and transplanted into
a bed of the richest earth in the garden, at the distance of
two feet and a half from each other every way ; the
residue may be taken up from the frame the last week in
April, or earlier, if the season proves rnild, by means of a
garden trowel, and transplanted as above.

The plants should be afterwards well cultivated, by hoeing
the ground deep around them, and bringing some earth gradu-
ally up to their stems, so as to push them forward before the
approach of warm weather. When the soil has been drawn
up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between
the rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They
should be liberally supplied with water in dry weather;
those out of flower twice a week, and those in, every other
day, which will contribute to their producing very large heads.
As the flower heads appear, the larger leaves should be
broken down over them, to defend them from the sun and
rain, in order that the heads or pulps may be close, und of
their natural colour.

CAULIFLOWER.

Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed' to*
succeed best; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced
from seed sown in a hot-bed towards the end of January, or
early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the
bed in good condition to receive the seed ; when the plants
are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they
progress in growth^ they should have as much air as possi-
ble, consistent with their preservation ; but the beds must
be kept covered up every night, as long as there is any dan-
ger of frost. When the plants are three or four inches high,
they must be pricked out three or four inches apart into
another bed, and by the latter end of April they may be
transplanted into the ground, and treated in every respect
the same as the other. These plants, if well managed, will
succeed very well, and those that do not flower by June,
may make good heads in autumn.

In the early part of May, Cauliflower seed may be sown
in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli,
and one ounce of seed will produce about four thousand
good plants. These plants should be pricked out in June,
and transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower
in Autumn : those that are not likely to flower by the last of
October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner
recommended for Broccoli.

Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while
the pulp is close and perfect. After having trimmed ofl*
some of their outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of
water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim the pot, and
also to ease the cover, so as not to confine the steam. Take
them up as soon as the fork will enter the stems easily,
which will be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to
their size and age; drain them so as to make them suscep-
tible of absorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter,.,
&c. This renders them, a palatable and. dainty dish.

45

CABBAGE.

CHOU. Brassica olcracea^ etc.

TARIET1ES.

Early May.
Early Hop 3
Early Dwarf Dutch.
Early York.
Early Sugarloaf.
Early Emperor.
Early Wellington.
Early Heart-shaped.
Early London M arket
Early London Battersea.

Late Battersea, or Drumhead.
Large Bergen, or American.
Late Flat Germm.
Large Green Glazed.
Large Late Drumhead.
Red Dutch, for Pickling.
Green Globe Savoy.
Large Cape Savoy.
Green Curled Savoy.
Turnip-rooted, in varieties.

The .early sorts of Spring Cabbage may be raised in
various ways. Some sow the seeds between the tenth and
twenty-fourth of September, pricked out and managed the
same as Cauliflower plants, only that they are more hardy,
and may sometimes be kept through the winter, without
sashes.

Some prefer sowing the seed in a cold-bed, covered by a
garden frame, with sashes. If this frame be placed on a
warm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the
early kinds sown the latter end of January, or early in
February, these plants will be better than those raised in the
fall; as they will not be so liable to run to seed, and they
will be more hardy, and full as early as those raised in hot-
beds in the spring.

Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the
ground intended for the raising of early plants before the
frost sets in — the same may be removed some mild day in
January or February, and temporary frames made by
driving stakes in the ground, and nailing planks or slabs
thereto. The ground being then dug, the seed sown, a»d
covered up with sashes, will soon produce plants in perfec-
tion. The frames should be well protected, by placing the
manure around them, and covering the tops with mats, boards,
&.c. as directed for hot-beds in the calendar for February and
March.

It is customary with Gardeners about New-York, to
raise their plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the beds

46 CABBAGE.

should be prepared, as directed in a future page of this hook,
(see Index,) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter
end of February, or early in March. Plants thus produced,
as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans-
plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully
planted, with a suitable dibble, in good ground, from six-
teen inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind :
these, by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in
June. If seeds of the large early kinds be sown in a warm
border, early in April, they will produce plants fit to trans-
plant in May, which will make good Cabbages for summer
use.

The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown towards the end'
of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab-
bage in general, may be sown at two or three different times,
between the tenth and twenty-fifth of May, in fresh rich
ground. The young plants will require to be watched at
this season of the year, and if they are attacked by insects,
recourse* must be had to the ingredients recommended in
the general directions; these, if used every evening until the
plants get strong, will bring them forward for transplanting
in the second or third week in, July.

The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the
summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded
border^ in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart.
One ounce of seed sown in this manner, will occupy a bor-
der of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and
produce about four thousand stout plants; whereas if seed
be sown broadcast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of
seed may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce
on the plan recommended.

The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted
in rows thirty inches asunder, and the plants about two feet
apart in the rows ; the Savoys and smaller sorts may be
placed from four to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage
succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be
deeply hoed, at least three times, during their growth.

Ihe Brassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its;

COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 47

bulb or protuberance, on the stems above ground,, immedi-
ately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about
the size of a garden turnip.

The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants
afterwards treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earth-
ing up the plants, you must be careful not to cover the
globular part.

They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England
the bulbs often grow to upwards of twenty inches in circum-
ference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They are
cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for
table use ; in either case, they treat them as they do cabba-
ges, or sow them like Turnips, and afterwards hoe them out
to proper distances.

The Brassica Napus, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage, has an
oblong thick root in the form of a Winter Radish ; it is ex-
tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seeds
should be sown in rich ground, and treated in every respect
as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the
distance of sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much
larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans-
planted.

The Brassica Napus, variety esculenta, is sometimes cul-
tivated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the
French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the Navet, or
French Turnip. In France, as well as in Germany, few
great dinners are served up without it, in one shape or other.

COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS.
CHOU VERT. Brassica oleracea.

This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young;
it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is
seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow [the seed
of early heading kinds of Cabbage, as a substitute, which
being done at different seasons, enables them to procure a
supply of fresh greens from their gardens every day in the

48 CARDOOXS.

year. This is not attainable here, on account of the ex-
tremes of heat and cold ; but Collards would prove very
valuable and acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable
season for fall Cabbage.

If the seeds of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early
kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July and August, and
transplanted as they become fit, into good ground, from fif-
teen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting would make
good heads for fall use ; and the plants of late sowings, if
transplanted in September and October, in a warm border,
would produce tender sweet-eating greens for use in the
early part of winter; the latter plantings may be placed
ten or twelve inches, plant from plant. These could be
easily sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without
being taken up. The cultivation of Collards is well adapted
to our Southern States, as they there need no protection in
winter.

CARDOONS.

CARDON. Cynara cardunculus*

THE Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is much
cultivated in Europe for culinary purposes, such as for
salads, soups, stews, &c.

The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the
eatable parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection
in Autumn and Winter.

The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the
month of April; and one ounce will produce about six
hundred plants: when the plants are up strong, they should
be thinned to four or five inches distance, to prevent their
becoming weak. They may be transplanted in June, at
the distance of four feet from one another every way ; ob-
serve before planting, to dress their tops and roots the sam«
as Celery. As they advance in growth, they are to be
earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together ;
this may be done with bass or matting, as practised with
Endive; they are •after wards to be earthed up gradually

CARROT. 49

from time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As
winter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid
away like Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a
cellar.

CARROT.
CAEOTTE. Daucus carota.

VARIETIES.

Early Orange. ~ ( Lonz Lemon- coloured.

Long Orange. g •? Blood Red,

Altringham. ,5 ( Long White.

THE Carrot is a native of Britain, and grows by the
road sides, in many parts. As a culinary vegetable it is
much used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled
beef, &c. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows,
vsheep, oxen, and horses, and are considered profitable, as
they frequently yield upwards of four hundred bushels to an
acre.

For the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated
for Spring and Summer use; but the Long Orange and
Altringham are more suitable for main crops, on account
of their bright orange colour, as well as for their great
size and length. They grow to great perfection in a
rich loamy soil, and may be raised in drills drawn about one
inch deep, and twelve inches asunder. A small bed may be
planted the latter end of March for an early crop, and from
that time to the end of May, for successive crops : but the
principal crop should not be sown too soon, as the early
plantings are apt to produce seed stalks, and consequently
stringy and useless roots.

The most suitable ground for late carrots, is that
which hasbeen well manured for previous crops, and requires
no fresh manure. If the seed be sown early in June, and the
plants thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from
each other when young, and kept hoed, they would yield an
abundance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being
taken up in Autumn, and preserved either in sand in a cellar,

5

50 CELERY,

or graves covered up in a garden, as directed in the calen-'
dar for November.

Although Carrot seed is naturally small and light, it sel-
dom fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, therefore,
need not be sown too thick in ground not apt to produce
weeds. If a root could be insured to grow unmolested in
erery instance where a seed may be deposited, two pounds
would be more than sufficient for an acre of land ; but gar-
deners generally use four or five pounds to the acre, in
order that the rows may be more easily traced in the
event of a luxuriant growth of weeds. To avoid risking an
unequal crop in small gardens, half an ounce of seed should
be allotted for every pole, perch, or rod, or twenty ounces
for a rood of land. On light ground, the Use of a roller
would be beneficial in dry weather, excess of which is detri-
mental to the germination of Carrot, as well as of all other1
light seeds.

CELERY.
CELERI. Apium graveolens.

VARIETIES.

White Solid. I New Silver Giant.

Red Coloured Solid. North's Giant Red.

Ccleriac, or Turnip-rooted.

Tins vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is known
in its wild state by the name of Smallage ; and is found in
great abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the sea-
coast of Britain, The effects of cultivation are here stri-
kingly exhibited, in producing from a rank, coarse weed, the
mild and sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance
should stimulate the young gardener to aim at improvements
in the cultivation of plants in general.

It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early
plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro-
duce seed stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold
beds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage
plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last

CELERY. 51

week in March, or early in April, in rich mellow ground,
and in a situation where the plants could be protected from
the parching heat of a summer sun (a border against a north
aspect is the most suitable.) Some sow the seed broadcast,
but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The
drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that
a small hoe can be worked between the rows ; and if pro-
perly attended to, every ounce of seed so sown, will produce
ten thousand strong plants or more.

The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nur-
sery bed of rich earth, as soon as they are two or three
inches long, there to remain about a month, after which they
will be fit to transplant into the trenches.

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open
exposure, mnrk out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches
wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which
will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig each trench
a moderate spade deep, laying the dug out earth equally on
each side, between the trenches; put three inches deep of
very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the
sides and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of
the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating all well toge-
ther, and put in the plants.*

Previous to planting, trim the plants, by cutting off the
long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let
them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the
middle of each trench, five or six inches between plant and
plant ; as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful

* Some gardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground;
others, after making their trenches in the usual way, have gone (o the
expense of carting peculiarsoil from a distance, with which they reple-
nished their trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued th#
latter plan, say that they were rewarded for their trouble by gathering
roots of superior size and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove
profitable to practice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be
judicious in those gardeners whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or
il] adapted for the cultivation of Celery, to cultivate it in shallow drill.*, or
furrows worked out with a plough, by which means they may secure good
«.»il to plant in, and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows must bo
from four to five fret apart, and frequent ploughing between them would
promote the growth of the plants.

52 CELERY.

watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root and
begin to grow.

The main crops may be planted in the same way, but in
trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or
two further from plant to plant ; or in beds made in the fol-
lowing manner, which for the ease of preserving the plants
in winter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a
greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of ground.

Lay out the ground into beds of four feet wide, whh alleys
between, of three feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing
the earth on the alleys: when done, lay four or five inches
of good well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig
and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole
with an inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four
rows in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight
inches apart in the rows ; after which, give them a plentiful
watering, and shade them.

The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown of
sufficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance
of boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the
leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alleys,
find removing them as you progress in the business.

The earthing should never be done when the plants are
wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but should be
Informed gradually in fine weather as the plants progress
in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks; at which
time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly,
and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When they are
grown two feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the
table.

As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season,
it will be necessary to delay the planting of that which is
intended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the
trenches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid
a serious drought, which often delays the plantings till too
late in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter use
may be delayed until October.

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICtJS. 53

By market gardeners who raise Celerj on a large scale,
the trenches may be worked out with a plough, and finished
with a spade or hoe. The ground may be also ploughed
between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up ; this
irill save much labour.

The Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted, may be planted either
on level ground or in shallow drills ; the root of it swells
like a Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the
winter. The French and Germans cut in slices, and soak
it a few hours in vinegar ; by such simple preparation, it
becomes meliew as a Pine Apple, and affords a delicious
and very nourishing repast.

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS.

MACHE ou DOUCETTE. Valeriana locusta.

v ARtET y . — Olitoria.

THIS plant grows spontaneously in the cornfields of Eng-
land, hence it is called Corn Salad, and from its being
sufficiently hardy to stand the winter, it has acquired the
appellation of Lamb's Lettuce, from its affording an early
pasturage. It is cultivated as a salad for winter and early
spring use. The seed may be sown in rich clean ground, the
latter end of August or early in September.

Some gardeners sow the seed in beds formed four or five
feet wide, with paths between each bed, jnst sufficient to
admit of room for hand-weeding ; but it will vegetate more
freely if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be
carefully covered. The drills may be about six inches apart
just sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the
rows ; as if the plants be not cleared of all weeds while
young, they will be more plague than profit.

Fetlicus must be covered up with straw at the approach
of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use
in the early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season
which most amply remunerates the cultivator.

5*

54 CRESS, AND WATER CRESS.

The seed ofFetticus is small and light, but it will admit
of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six
pounds to the acre of land.

CRESS.

CRESSON. Lapidium sativum.

VARIETIES.

Curled, or Peppergrass. | Broad-leaved Garden.

, CRESS is a small salad herb, and is generally used with
Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &c. It may be sown
•in little drills very thick, as should Salad seeds in general,
and cut before it comes into rough leaf. A small quantity
in the salad season, which is Spring and Autumn, may be
sown every week in- rich ground free from weeds.

CRESS-WATER.

CRESSON DE FONTAINE. Sisymbrium nasturtium.

THE Water Cress is a creeping amphibious perennial, and
is grown very extensively for the London markets. Loudon
says, in his Encyclopedia of Gardening, that "The most
suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more
than an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel;
the least favourable, deep still water, oramuddy bottom. It
is highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly
risen spring water, as the plants do not only thrive better in
it, but in consequence of its being rarely frozen, they gene-
rally continue in vegetation, and in a good state for gather-
ing, through the whole winter season. The plants are
disposed in rows parallel with the course of the stream,
about eighteen inches apart. When these plants begin to
grow in water one inch and a half deep, they soon check the
current so as to raise the water to the height of three inches
above the plants, which is considered the most favourable

ctrcuiUBER. 55

circumstance in which they can be placed. It is absolutely
necessary to have a constant current, as where there is any
obstruction to the stream, the plants cease to thrive. After
they have been cut about three times, they begin to stock*
and then the oftenerthey are cut the better."

CUCUMBER.

CONCOMBRE. Cucumis scttwus, etc*

VARIETIES.

Early Frame. Long Green Southgate,

Early Green Cluster. Long green Turkey.

Early Green Table.
Long Prickly.
Short Prickly.

Long White Turkey.

White S pined.

West India, or Gherkin-

THE Cucumis sativus, or common Cucumber, is a native
of the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the
vine. It was introduced into England in 1573, and is ex-
tensively cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air.
In March, they are sold in the London markets for a guinea
a dozen ; and in August and September, for one penny per
dozen.

As Cucumbers are much used in New- York, it
should be an object with gardeners to have them in the
market early ; directions for raising them out of the ordi-
nary season, are therefore given in a future page, under the
head forcing vegetables, to which the reader is referred.
Cucumbers may be raised in the open ground, by planting
seed the first week of May, in hills four feet apart ; or
if the ground be light, basins formed an inch below the level
of the surface would be beneficial.* Previous to planting,
the ground should be prepared by incorporating a shovelful
of rotten dung, with the earth in each hill, after which four
or five seeds may be planted half an inch deep. One ounce

* The term hill is frequently made use of by gardeners and farmers,
to designate a situation allotted for a given number of seeds, whereas,
such seeds are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface
than above it ; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently
formed around them, which makes the term applicable, or rather
reconciles the apparent contradiction.

56 CHITES, OR CIVtfS*

of good sound seed is sufficient for two hundred hills artcf
upwards.

Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly,
which sometimes devours young plants ; these and other
insects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, pow-
dered charcoal, and the like, round about the vines when
they first come up. After this is done, the plants may be
thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground carefully
hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same time.
The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the
weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then,
given in the evening, will be of considerable service.

Picklers may be raised by planting the seed at any time
in July. When the vines begin to bear, they should be
looked over, and the fruit gathered as fast as it becomes fit,
as the plant will cease to bear much, if the fruit be permitted
to get yellow*

CHIVES, OR CIVES.

CIVETTE. Allium schcenoprasum.

THIS is a small species of Onion, growing in large tufts ;
they are propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be
planted either in Spring or Autumn, in rows ten or twelve
inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the
rows ; they will soon take root, and increase very fast into
large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging to
beds or borders.

EGG-PLANT.

MELONGENE ou AUBERGINE. Solanum melongena.

VARIETIES.

Purple, for cocking. | White, for ornament.

Seed of the Purple Egg-plant may be sown in a hot-
bed about the first of March, and the sashes kept down
close until the plants come up, after which a little air may

EGG PLANT. 67

be given in the heat of the day.* Towards the middle of
May, if settled warm weather, the plants should be set out
from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, in a rich warm
piece of ground, and if kept clean, and a little earth be
drawn up to their stems, when about a foot high, they will
produce plenty of fruit.

Plants of the white variety may be raised in the same
manner, and transplanted into pots in May ; or if some of
the seed be sown in a warm situation the first week in May,
these may come to perfection in the course of the summer.
This variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is
good when cooked.

As Egg Plants will not grow in the open ground until
settled warm weather, and are apt to perish from being
transplanted too early, the gardener should be provided
with small pots, in order that the plants maybe transplanted
therein early in May, and placed in a frame, there to remain
until the first week in June, at which time if they are turned
out and planted, with the balls of earth entire, they will
soon take mot and grow freely.

Select the fruit when at maturity ; cut it into slices, and
parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain off the water ;
it may then be fried in batter made with wheaten flour and
an egg, or in fresh butter with bread grated fine, seasoned
before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme, and
such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use
Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c.

* Egg-Plant seed will not vegetate freely without substantial heat ;
but with proper management, upwards of four thousand plants may be
raised from an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least chilled in
progress of growth, they seldom recover; it is, therefore, importanl
that the frame allotted for them, be placed over a well-regulated hot-bed,
and partitioned off, so that the sash can be kept down over the plants
in cool weather.

Some Gardeners raise Egg-plants in the same frame with Cabbage
and such other half hardy plants as require air every mild day ; by such
management, one or the other must suffer for want of suitable alimenfr—
Heat being the principal food of tender plants, and Aif that of themora
hardy species.

58

ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY.
CHICOREE DBS JARDINS. Cichorium endiva^ etc.

VARIETIES.

Gr-'fn Curled Gold* n Yellow.

White Curled. | Broad-leaved Batuvian.

THE Cichorium endiva is a native of China and Japan,
and is much used in salads and stews, and as a garnish for
the table.

The proper kind of seed for early sowing, is the Green
Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different
times in April and May, for those who would have it early.
These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason,
it will be best to delay the sowings of seed for general crops
until June or July. If a small quantity of each esteemed
variety be sown two or three times in these months, they will
produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the early
part of Winter. One ounce of good Endive seed will pro-
duce about 5000 plants.

When the plants are three or four inches high, they should
be transplanted into good ground, to the distance of a foot
from each other, and immediately watered ; or if they are
set out in cloudy or wet weather, it will save this trouble.
The plants will require to be hoed and attended to in the
same manner as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size,
when they must be blanched. Select the large and full-
hearted plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a
little above the middle, not too tight, previously gathering
up the leaves regularly in the hand. This must be done
when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the plants would rot.
The Cichorium intybus grows spontaneously in many
parts of Europe and America. In France it is much culti-
vated ; the tops of the plants are considered profitable for
cattle, and the roots are taken up in Autumn, and dried.
The aromatic and volatile qualities of coffee are, by the
combination of this root, rendered more mellow and full
upon the palate, and its fragrance greatly increased, pro-
ducing an agreeable tonic, and most exhilarating beverage.

59 HORSE-RADISH.

Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, and
about eighteen inches apart ; thin out to six or eight inches
in the row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers, and
is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots, when
dried, roasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the
proportion of two ounces of the powder with a pound of
coffee.

HORSE-RADISH.

RAIFORT. CocJilearia armoracia.

THIS plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, eithef
cut from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or
otherwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root,
retaining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as
possible. These should be planted as early in the spring as
practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches
from each other in the rows.

Select for the bed a good depth of soil, arid such as will
retain moisture, manure it with good rotten dung, plough or
dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient
implement, draw drills a foot apart — then plant with a
dibble, cuttings as ubove described, in every alternate drill,
from two to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may
be planted with Beet or Carrot seed, or that of any other
root, but Turnip Beets are the most suitable to cultivate
between the rows, as they will grow quick, and can be
pulled out, without disturbing the Horse Radish.

The Beets must of course be thinned out while young,
and kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will
also benefit the Horse-Radish. After the Beets are pulled,
hoe the ground again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which
method the bed may be cleared every year.

Some cultivate Horse-Radish in a permanent bed, in
which case, if in taking up the roots some offsets be left
in the ground, they will produce a successive supply for
future years.

60

INDIAN CORN.
MAIS. Zea mayz.
VARIETIES.

larly Button.
Early Tuscarora.
Early Canadian.
Sweet, or Sugar.

j Cobbet's Early Norrnandy.
Southern Horsetooth.
Earlv Golden Sioux
Mottled, and Curious Pearl.

THF, different varieties of Early Corn intended for boiling
when young, or others as curiosities, may be planted in the
garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four
feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be
planted in separate beds at the same time, they will come in
for the table one after the other in regular succession. After
this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted
at different plantings in the months of May and June. If
the ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the
earth in each hill before the seeds are planted, and after the
plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes
around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling,
will cause it to produce eats early. Deep digging between
the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about eighteen
inches high.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.

POM ME DE TERRE. Heliantlius tuberosum.
THIS plant is a native of America* The tubers of the
root which are generally abundant, were, before potatoes
became improved by cultivation, in great esteem, and are
yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious food, when
boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa-
gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each,
and planting them in the same manner as potatoes, in
March and April. To have them in perfection, they should
be hoed frequently, and the ground kept loose around them,
In digging them for use, care should be taken to gather them
t)ut clean, as the least particle being left will grow the year
following, and encumber the ground, without producing a
crop worth standing.

LEEK.

POIRREAU. Allium porrum.

VARIETIES.

Scotch, or Flag j Large London.

THIS is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy as
"to endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The
seed may be sown in March, or early in April, on a bed of
rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and of a sufficient
distance apart to admit of a small hoe working between the
rows, allowing one ounce of seed for every three thousand
plants that may be required.

If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants,
they will be fit to transplant in June, or early in July, and
should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches
asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows.
They will grow well in a warm border, which at this season
is useless for many kinds of vegetables. After the plants
have taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept
free from weeds.

Those who wish to have leeks blanched, may plant theiii
in trenches three or four inches deep, ^and as the plants
progress in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe into
the trenches.

LETTUCE.

LAITUE. Lactuca saliva crispa.

VARIETIES.

Large Green head.
Dutch, or. Cabbage.
Tennis Ball, or Rose.
Madeira, or Passion. ,« g-3
Large Green Curled. ' ff

Egyptian Green Coss.

Early Silesia.
Imperial, or Sugar Loaf.
Pale Green, or Butter.
Grand Admiral.
Large Summer Silesia.
Brighton, or Loaf Coss.

IT would be easy to furnish a more extensive catalogue
of Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one
<of those kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in per-

6

6# LETTUCE.

fection during1 mild afnd temperate weather, it is needless fb/
the gardener to plant any in the open ground, but such as
have been tested, and found to stand a tolerable share of
warm weather, which generally prevail in May and June,
and consequently cuts short the Salad season. Those who
have been accustomed to raise Head Lettuce in any quantity,
know the trouble of preparing and planting the ground, and
the loss they would sustain, if several thousand of plants run
up to seed just as they appeared to be perfecting for market.
As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I
would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not
acquainted with, before they set out any quantity with a
view to their heading.

The six varieties inserted in the' first column of our
catalogue, have been known to stand our Winters, and may
fee sown from the first to the middle of September, in rich
ground free from weeds ; they answer very well sown with
Spinach, and should be covered over with straw at the
approach of severe weather. These plants, if transplanted
into warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March
as the weather permits, will produce fine heads early in
the month of May.

The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be sown in
moderate hot- beds early in March, which being transplanted
into good ground by the middle of April, will produce their
heads before the approach of warm weather. Such kinds as
are known to produce heads' in hot weather, and also such
as may be required to cut as a small Salad while young,
may be sown in Warm1 borders in March and April, but
those intended for heading should be transplanted as soon as
they are an inch or two in height, and kept in a growing
state by frequent hoeing,* or th«y may run up to seed as the
season advances.

If it be an object with the gartfener to have good strong
Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown
very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border
of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro-
duce from ten to twelve thousand plants.-

MELON- 63

AH kinds of Lettuce intended for heading, should be
planted in good ground twelve inches distant from each
other every way ; the plants should be carefully hoed every
other week, during their growth ; the first hoeing should be
done in about two weeks after they are transplanted.

The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched ; this is done by
gathering up the leaves of the plants, and tying bass round
them when grown to perfection.

If Head Lettuce be required at other seasons than the
Spring, it may be obtained in Autumn by sowing seed in
August, or in the Winter, by means of garden frames and
glazed sashes. See article on forcing vegetables.

MELON.

MELON. Cucumis melo.

VARIETIES.

Green Citron.

Murray's Pine Apple. I |

Persian. \ =>

Nutmeg. I §.

Star, Fine Late. } §.

Large Yellow Canteleupe.
Minorca, or Netted do.
Pomegranate, or Musk Scented.
Skillman's, or Netted Romane.
Snake, (curious.)

THE Melon is an exotic plant, growing wild in Asia. It
is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, and also
in Africa and America, where its salubrious and cooling
fruit is greatly esteemed.

For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, pre-
pare a piece of rich ground the first week in May ; manure
it and give it a good digging ; then mark it out into squares
.of six feet every way ; at the angle of every square, dig a
hole twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put
about six inches deep of old rotten dung ; throw thereon
about four inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well
with the spade ; after which draw more earth over the mix-
ture, so as to form a circular hill about a foot broad at top.
For a definition of the term " hill," see article Cucumber.
When your hills are all prepared, plant in each towards the
centre, six or eight grains of seed, distant two inches from
one another, and cover them about half an inch deep. One

WATER MELON;

ounce of good Melon seed will plant about one hundred and?
twenty hills.

When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing
their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in
each hill; draw earth from time to time round the hills, and
as high about the roots of the plants as the seed leaves.
As soon as the plants spread into branches, they should be
slopped, by pinching off the top of the first runner bud ; this
will strengthen the plants and promote their perfecting the
fruit early ; after which keep the ground perfectly free from
weeds by frequent hoeings.

There are many varieties of the Melon, highly estimated
in Europe, which do not succeed in this country ; the gar.
dener should, therefore, plant only such as have been tested
and found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old
sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection
is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts
remote from each other, also from cucumbers, squashes, and
gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To.
prevent the ravages of flies, &c. see General Remarks.

WATER MELON,

MELON D'EAU. Cucurbita citrullus.

VARIETIES.

Long Island. Apple seeded.

Carolina. Citron, for preserves.

Goodwin's Scarlet Imperial.

THE Water Melon, though by some considered a species
of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They
afford a veiy refreshing article of Juxury in our warm sum-
mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of his journey to the south-
ern provinces in Russia, in 1793 and 94, speaking of a
colony of Moravians atSarepta, or Sapa, on the river Volga,
says, "The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind
of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons,
with the addition of Hops ; they also prepare a conserve QSV

MUSTARD. 65

marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for
syrup or treacle."

In order to have Water Melons in good perfection, you
must fix upon a piece of very rich light soil ; prepare, plant
and manage it in every respect as is directed for the others,
only let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way.
One ounce of seed will plant from forty to fifty hills.

MUSTARD,

MOUTARDE. Sinapis.

VARIETIES.
White. | Black.

THE Alba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously in
the fields of England ; it is also cultivated as a small Salad,
as well as for seed. The seed yields from every hundred
pounds, from thirty-three to thirty* six pounds of sweet
mild oil.

White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per-
sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit
by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three times a
day. Some use it in pickles, to which it imparts an agree-
able flavour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more
salutary.

The Nigra, or Common Mustard, is also a native of
England. The condiment, called Mustard, and in daily
use at our table, is prepared from the seed of this species.

The seeds of each variety may be sown in clean rich
ground in April and May; and for a fall Salad in September,
in shallow drills.

6*

NASTURTIUM.

GAPUCINE. Tropceolum.

Tins is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is highlv
deserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange
and crimson coloured flowers, as well as for the berries,,
which, if gathered, while green and pickled in vinegar,
make a good substitute for capers, and are used in melted
butter, with boiled mutton, &c.

The seeds should be sown in April, or early in May, in
drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales; or trellises
should be fixed on which they can climb and have support,
for they will always be more productive in this way than
when suffered to trail on the ground.

OKRA.

GOMBO. Hibiscus esculentUs.

THE green capsules of this plant are used in soups,
stews, &c., to which they impart a rich flavour, and are
considered nutritious. Its ripe seeds, if burnt and ground
Tike coffee, can scarcely lie distinguished therefrom.

The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first
or second week in May, if settled warAi weather, but not
otherwise, as it is a very tender vegetable. Draw drills
about an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into
which drop the seeds at the distance of six or eight inches1
from one another, or rather drop two or three in each place,
test the one should not grow, and cover them nearly an inch
deep ; as the plants advance in growth, thin them out, eartrr
thanvup two or three times^nd they will produce abundantly-

6f
ONION.

OIGNON. Allium cepa} etc. etc:

VARIETIES.

White Portugal.
Silver Skinned.
Deptford Red.

Yellow Dutch.
Strasburgh, or Flanders.
Madeira, (imported.)

OF the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver
Skinned, and Deptford Red, are the best for a general crop.
The bulbs are handsome, of firm growth,, and keep wel!<
through the Winter. The white Portugal are handsome for
the table, very suitable for pickling ; also to pull while
young : and generally prove a very profitable crop.

Previous to sowing Onion seed for a general crop, the
ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the
oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier
this be done in the Spring, the better ; and the planting
should not be delayed longer than the middle of April. The
seed may be sown moderately thick in drills one inch
deep, and twelve inches apart

Those who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs,,
may use at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre.

As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities,
find it most profitable to pull a great proportion of their
Onions while young, they generally require at the rate of
from eight to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land.

When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed.
Those beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned
out while young, to the distance of two or three inches from
each other ; if a few should be required for use after thisr
those can be taken which incline more to tops than roots,
and if the beds be frequently looked over, and the small and;
stalky plants taken away where they stand thickest, the
remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size/ The plants
should be hoed at least three times in the early part of their
growth ; but if the season prove damp, and weeds vegetate
luxuriantly, they must be removed by the hand, because,,
after the Onions have begun to bulb, it would be improper,
to stir them with a hoe,

68 ONION.

When the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it
is time {o take them up, for from this time the fibrous roots
decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to
dry, and when dry, removed to a place of shelter.

The small Onions may be planted in the Spring following :
even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good
bulbs, if the seed stems be taken off as soon as they appear.

The Allium fistulosum, or Welsh Onions, are cultivated
for Spring salad ; they form no bulbs, but are very hardy.
If the seed be sown early in September in rich ground,
although the crops may die down in the Winter, yet the
roots will continue sound, and put up new leaves early in
the Spring.

The Allium cepa, or common White and Red Onions,
are most generally cultivated by market gardeners as a sub-
stitute for the Allium fistulosum ; they sow the seed in the
Spring and Autumn months, the product of which is pulled
and sent to market while young, and generally meets a
ready sale.

The Allium proliferum, or Tree Onion, is propagated by
planting the bulbs in Spring or Autumn, either the root bulbs,
or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if
planted in the Spring, will produce fine Onions. These may
be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots.

The Potatoe Onion is of late introduction into this coun-
try. It does not produce seed as other Onions, but it increa-
ses by the root. One single Onion, slightly covered, will
produce six or seven in a clump, partly under ground.

The bulbs are generally planted in the Spring, from twelve
to eighteen inches apart, but they will survive the Winter,
and yield better by being planted in Autumn, if slightly
covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees.

60
PARSLEY.

PERSIL. Apium petroselinum.

VARIETIES.

Dwarf Curled. I Hardy Siberian.

Extra Curled. Large Rooted Hamburg-.

Single or Common. Large Rooted Naples.

PARSLEY is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild ir>
moist climates, but has been greatly improved by cultiva-
tion. The leaves of Common Parsley are used as a pot
herb, and those of the Extra Curled kinds make a fine
garnish. The Large Rooted are generally cooked for the
table in Autumn and Winter, like Parsnips.

As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to lay in
the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in
dry weather, the general crop should be sown by the early
part of April, in drills an inch deep, and one foot asunder,
allowing at the rate of about sir or seven pounds of seed to
the acre, or two ouaces for every three perches of land.
After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent
hoeings. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned out
while young, and managed the same as Carrots and
Parsnips.

In order to have Parsley grean through the Winter, the
old leaves should be picked off in September. If some of
the roots be taken up early§ in November, and laid in a
frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long
time ; ihe remainder may be covered up with straw in the
place where it grows.

If some Parsley seed be sown in frames in Spring or
Summer, it may be preserved for Winter use without the
trouble of removing it.

TO

PARSNIP.
PANAIS. Pastinaca sativa.

VARIETIES.
Long Guernsey Cup. | Large Dutch, or Common.

THIS is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous
soils ; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms
a vegetable dish in the Winter, with salt meat, salted
fish, &c.

Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March
to the last week in April, in drills one inch deep and four-
teen inches apart ; and as this vegetable requires the whole
season to grow in, the sooner the seed is planted the better.
Parsnips grow best in a deep soil, manured well the preced-
ing fall. Sow the seeds thick along the drills, at the rate of
five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly. *

When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them
to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They
should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeings through
the'Summer, and in Autumn they will be fit for use ; but
they improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will
endure the severity of a hard Winter, See calendar for
November.

Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling,
according to their size and age, Some boil them in water,
seasoned with salt, until tender ; but they are better when
boiled with salt pork, and afterwards mashed and fried in
butter.

* This plant, although when in full growth will endure the extremes
of heat and cold, it requires peculiar management to promote and pre-
serve germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the
seed a fair chance, it should be planted in such ground as is susceptible
of moisture, and that is not apt to incrust when dry. The seed should
be dropped thick along the drills, and well covered — as single or solitary
plants are apt to perish, from not having sufficient strength to opentho
pores of the earth, and in the event of drought such plants die off pre-
maturely. If cultivated in light or dry ground, the same should be
polled or pressed immediately aftpr depositing the seed therein, to pre«
fierve moisture,

n

PEPPER.

£oiVBE ou PIMENT. CapsicuMi

VARIETIES.

Grossum, or Bell Pepper. Long Red, or Bird's Bilk

'Tomato shaped, or Squash. Cherry, or West Indian.

Sweet Spanish ; used as a Salad, has a very delicate taste.

THIS family of plants are natives of the East and West
Indies ; some of their capsules, or pods^ are yellow, and
others red, when at maturity ; they are much used for pick-
ling, and should be gathered for that purpose before they
are fully ripe.

The seeds of the different kinds of Capsicums may be
sown in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in
May. One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand
plants. When the plants arrive at the height of from one
to two inches, they should be transplanted into good rich
ground, from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each
other.

Those who do not want Peppers early in the season^
may sow some seed in the open ground in May, in drills two
feet asunder, and half an inch deep. When the plants are
grown an inch or two high, thin them to the distance of
fifteen or eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should
be afterwards hoed deep round the plants, and kept free
from weeds by repeated hoeings.

The Capsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and
will keep in perpetual bearing in warm climates. In Eng-
land this species is considered superior to all others, on
account of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender;
the plants are therefore frequently preserved in hot-houses
during the Winter and Spring, and kept in the open air in
settled warm weather.

72
PEAS.

Pois. Pisum sativum.

VARIETIES.

Bishop's Early Dwarf, 1 foot,
fcarly Washington,r3 feet.
Early Frame, 2 1-2.
Early Charlton, 3 feet.
Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet.

Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet Knight's Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet.
Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 fobt. «r-.j^^,- <-<.. — i>_.i:«_ a <-„.

Early Nimble Dick, 3 1-2 feet.
Early Warwick, 3 feet.
Dwarf Blue, Imperial, 2 feet.
Waterloo Blue, 4 feet.

Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 1-2 ffeeV
Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 1-2 feet.
Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feet
Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet.
Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet.

Woodford's Green Prolific, 6 feet.
Large Grey Rouncival, 4 feet.
Dwarf Sugar (eatable pods) 3 feet.
Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet.
French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 1-2 ft.

Groom's Dwarf Blue Prolific, 4 feet.! Albany Field, in varieties.

THE above list and description of the most esteemed
kinds of Peas, are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C.
Thorburn. If they are rightly described, they will grow to
different heights, according to soil and season. This
description, however, may serve as a guide for the gardener
in planting. The dwarf Peas require less distance between
row and row, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds.

Planting the early kinds of Peas should commence as
soon in the Spring as the ground can be brought into good
condition ; nil the other sorts, as well as the early, will
answer for successive crops ; to obtain which, a few of the
most esteemed varieties should be planted at the same time
every two weeks, from March until the end of May. Per-
sons desirous of having Peas throughout the Summer and
Autunvn may plant a few in June, July and August. The
Peas should be then soaked in soft water, five or six hours
before planting, and if the ground be dry, it should be
watered in the drills.

Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas,
some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single
rows, others in double, some use sticks for the dwarf kinds,
and others not ; those who study neatness should, however,
have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do
without.

All the different sorts of Peas may be planted in double
•or single rows, from four to six feet apart, according to the

PEAS. 7S

Different heights they may be expected to grow. If two
drills be made three inches deep, and about nine inches
apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately
thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save
sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let
them be hoed, drawing at the same time a little earth up to
their stems ; when they get to double that height, let them
be hoed again, at the same time place a row of sticks in the
middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller
ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb-
bing to their main support. You must be governed as to
the length of your sticks by the description of your Peas.
There is great advantage in having sticks of a suitable
height to the various kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not
only be sufficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants
may readily take hold ; and they should be prepared fan
fashion, so that the side branches may extend only along
the rows. As the plants progress in growth, let them be
repeatedly hoed and earthed up ; this will promote a plen-
tiful bearing.

One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty
to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to
average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the
inch.

To have green peas in perfection, they should be gathered
while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled,
or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let the
water be seasoned with salt, and boiled ; then put in the
Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the cover
so as to let oft* the steam ; they require about fifteen minutes
boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to the age
and care bestowed. Taste and try in time, so as to have
them done to a nicety.

The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the
pods, like the common sorts ; they should therefore be
boiled without shelling, and served up the same as Kidney
Beans,

74
POTATOES.

POMME BE TERRE. Solanum tuberosum.

THE Potatoe is known to be a native of the Southern part®
of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation.

The varieties being very numerous, it is unnecessary for
me to point out any particular kinds ; some of the earliest
should, ^however, be planted first in the spring, to produce
young Potatoes in due season, but they are not so suitable
for a full crop as the late varieties.

Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients
have been contrived with a view to find out the best method
of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where
Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers
seldom plant them whole; they take the Potatoes as they
come to hand, and in cutting them take care to have two
good eyes in each set ; the smalKPotatoes are deprived of
the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a
redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak
plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have
frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised
from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way.
Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are
cut ; the better way is to get them cut a week before the
time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn, or garret
floor, to dry.

It will require from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes
to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and nature
of the seed roots, the manner of preparing, and mode of
planting the same.

Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until
July, either in hills or drills ; the best way for a garden is to
plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about
thirty inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight
inches apart; and if a small quantity of combmaker's horn
shavings or sea weed, be used as a manure for the early
kinds, it will expedite their growth ; the ground should be
hoed as soon as the plants come up, and as they progress- in
growth, it will be proper to mould or earth them up twice.

x 75

POTATOE, SWEET.

POMHE DE TERRE DOUCE. Convolvulus batdta$.

SPTEET Potatoes are grown to great perfection in the
Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New"
York, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should
be planted whole, early in April, three or four inches deep,
and about the same distance apart. In about a month they
will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above
ground, part them off from the Potatoe, which, if suffered to
remain, will produce more sprouts for a successive planting;
transplant them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart,
and the plants about a foot apart, in the rows, or in hills
four feet apart. Keep them clear o£ weeds, until the vines
begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely.
In sandy ground, it is well to put a shovelful of rottem
manure to each plant.

A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put down early in
the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet
Potatoes placed therein, will produce a succession of sprouts
in May and Jutie, which if planted and managed as directed,
will yield about fifteen bushels of good roots.

PUMPKIN.

CITROUILLE ou POTIROX. Cucurbita pepo.

VARIETIES.

Finest Yellow Family,
Large Cheese.
Mammoth, or Spanish.

Connecticut Field.

White Bell.

Seven Years, or Long-keeping.

THIS plant is highly deserving cultivation, particularly in
new settlements ; the large sorts are profitable for cattle, as
some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh
upwards of two hundred pounds each ; the other kinds are
also very productive, and may be raised on any waste laud,
provided it will admit of digging small spots, of a foot or
two dimensions, every ten or twelve feet, for the hills, and

76" RADISH.

that the residue of the ground be unencumbered for the-
plants to run on. They are generally raised on cultivated
farms, between hills of Indian .Corn, and may be planted in
the* garden or open field, in May or June, in hills eight or
ten feet apart, with three or four seeds in each hill.

One quart of Field Pumpkin Seed will plant from five to
six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant
from fifty to eighty hills.

Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either
Melons or Cucumbers, but, in other respects, are cultivated
in the same manner, only that in raising them on a large
scale, the ground may be prepared with a plough, and also
afterwards, as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow
may be used between the plants until they begin to run,
which will save much labour.

The finest quality Pumpkins are known to make good
pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with
wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully
equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may
prove advantageous to farmers living at a distance from
cities, as they may find a market for their grain or mea]
easier than for- their Pumpkins.

RADISH,

RADIS ou RAVE. Raphanus sativus.

VARIETIES.

Long Scarlet.
Long Purple.
Scarlet Pear shape.
Scarlet Turnip.
White Turnip Rooted.,

Long White Naples.

Purple Turnip. f ^

Yellow Turnip.
White Spanish.
Black Spanish.

I

THE different varieties of Radishes are extensively culti'-
vated near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are
considered a luxury after a hard Winter, and prove accept-
able as the warm weather approaches, provided they can be
obtained in perfection. The plant is also cultivated for the
sake o£ the seed leaves, w.hiclx are used, as a small

ROCAMBOLE. 77

and even the seed pods, if pickled while youhg and green,
are by some considered a good substitute for Capers.

Those who may be desirous of having good Radishes
early in the Spring, should have a warm border prepared in
the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the
Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground
should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this
time, let it be delayed a few days, and by the first of April,
take care to have another bed prepared in the open ground,
by digging in some good strong manure. The seed may be
sown broadcast, and raked in evenly, or in drills drawn
about one inch deep, and a foot apart.

If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow
seeds of the^most esteemed varieties every two weeks, until the
middle of May: if any be sown after this, it should be the
sorts described in the second column of our catalogue.
These will endure the heat better than the others, and may
be sown in drills, in small quantities, throughoutthe Summer,
until the latter end of August, when all the varieties may be
sown in regular succession until the first of October. Market
gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and
cover such seed as may be sown broadcast with a harrow.

For early Spring crops the seed may be sown at the rate
of from twelve to fourteen pounds to the acre, broadcast ;
and about half the quantity may be sufficient, in drills drawn
a foot apart. Of the large late kinds, five pounds to the
acre will be enough, if sown regularly in drills as directed.

It may be necessary here to remind the gardener of the
necessity of sowing tobacco dust, soot or ashes, &c. over
his seed beds, in hot dry weather, or he will find it difficult
to raise Radishes in impropitious seasons. — See article
Turnip, also the General Remarks.

ROCAMBOLE.

AIL D'ESPAGNE. Allium scorodoprasum.

THIS and the Allium sativum, or common Garlic, is raised
in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole

7*

78 RHUBAKB.

to be of a milder and better flavor, but the bulbs are~
not so large as those of the Garlic.

The plants are very hardy, and will grow in almost every
soil or situation. They may be propagated either by the
roots or seeds ; the former ought to be separated and planted
at the same time, and in the same manner as Shallots.

If raised from seeds, they may be sown in drills, either
shortly after the seeds are ripe, or in the succeeding Spring ;
they require only to be kept clear of weeds, and in the
following Autumn may be taken up, the bulbs parted, and
planted as before ~

RHUBARB.

RHUBARBE. Rheum.

RHUBARB is a genus of exotic plants, comprising seven
species, of which the following are the principal : —

1. Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native of
Thrace and Syria, has long been cultivated in British
gardens for the footstalks of the leaves, which are frequently
used in pies and tarts.

2. Rheum undulatum is also cultivated for the same use.

3. The Palmatum, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a
native of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has
been introduced into Europe ; it produces a thick fleshy
root, externally yellowish brown, but internally of a bright
yellow colour, streaked with red veins. It grows to great
perfection in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire, (lat 56,)
also in England, Turkey, and various other parts of Europe.
When the importance of this root as a medicine is consi-
dered, it is a matter of astonishment that it has not been
more generally introduced into the United States.

The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated by
offsets taken from the roots early in the Spring, or from seed
sown late in Autumn, or in March and the early part of April.
The indispensable points to the production of good roots of
the Palmatum, are depth and richness of soil, which should
be well pulverized before the plants are set out. Prepare

RHUBARB. 7jy

Beds of fine mould eighteen inches deep ; in these put in the
plants from the seed bed, ten or twelve inches apart ; this
must be done when- they have attained the height of four or
five inches, and have thrown out as many leaves.

The first season is the most critical, and much care is
necessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must be
shaded, and at all events continually watered ; for water,
though hurtful to old plants, is now of the first consequence.
Wet weather is the most proper time to plant in. The beds
must be kept free from weeds during the Summer, and on
die approach of severe weather, covered up with light litter.
The early part of the Spring this must be taken off, and in
the beginning of April the plants must be transplanted into
ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus.

Those who cultivate the Palmatum for the sake of the
roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and
place the plants three feet apart everyway. As to the other
varieties, it is not so particular, if the plants have room to
grow. In the early part of November, the leaves being then
decayed, the beds should be covered with dry litter; before
this is done, a little earth should be drawn round the crowns
of the plants. If there be any danger of water lodging,
make trenches to carry it off. In the month of March, the
beds ^should be stripped of their covering, and the ground
well hoed and cleared of weeds.

The roots of Palmatum must not be taken up, until six or
seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be cat
every Spring, as soon as the leaves are expanded.

If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the Spring,
they may be obtained by placing flour barrels or deep tubs
over some of the plants, and- covering them up with fresh
stable dung, or by any of the methods pointed out in the
article under the head of Forcing Vegetables.

The stalks of this plant are used for pies and tarts. After
being stripped of the skin, or outer covering, and divested of
its small fibres, or stringiness, which it is liable to, in an
advanced stage of growth, it should be cut transversely into
very small pieces, and then parboiled with sugar, and such
apices as may best suit the palate. It will keep this way the

SO SALSIFY.

same as other preserves, and may be used not only in pies
and tarts, but it makes excellent pudding, by flattening a
suety crust with a rolling pin, then spreading on the fruit,
rolling it up in an oval shape, and boiling it in a cloth. The
fruit this way will retain its virtues, and the pudding may be
served up hot, in slices of from half an inch to an inch thick,
and spreading butter and sugar between the layers.

Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained
through a colander will keep for years, if well spiced and
seasoned with sugar.

In England, large drying houses have been erected for the
purpose of curing the roots of the Palmatum ; but this busi-
ness may be done in this country as it is done in China : by
the heat of the sun. After the roots have been well washed,
and the small fibres cut off, they are then cut transversely
into pieces of about two inches thick, and dried on boards,
turning them several times a day, in order to prevent the
escape of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal qualities
depend. In four or five days, they may be strung upon
strings, and suspended in a shady, but airy and dry situa-
tion, and in two months afterwards they will be fit for the
market.

SALSIFY.

SALSIFIS ou CERCIFIS. Tragopogon porrifolius.

THIS plant grows spontaneously in the open fields of
England, and is by some highly valued for its white eatable
root, and for the young shoots rising in the Spring from
plants a year old ; these when gathered while green and
tender, are good to boil and eat in the manner of Asparagus.
Some have carried their fondness for this plant so far as to
call it Vegetable Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil
and management as Carrots and Parsnips.

The seed may be sown the latter end of March, or early
in April, an inch deep, in drills twelve inches apart. When
the plants are two or three inches high, they should be
thinned to the distance of six inches from each other, and

SCOBZONERl. 81

afterwards hoed. The ground should be kept clean and
loose round the plants, by repeated hoeings ; and in the
Autumn they will be fit for use. The roots may be taken up
late in Autumn, and secured in moist sand from the air; or
be suffered to remain out, and dug up when wanted.

As the seeds of Salsify do not all ripen equally alike, they
should be sown moderately thick. To insure a regular
crop, five or six pounds should be allowed for an acre of
ground, or two ounces- for every three perches.

The mode of cooking recommended by an American
author is, "to cut the roots transversely into thin pieces;
boil them in water, or milk and water ; when boiled soft,
mash them, and thicken the whole with flour to some degree
of stiffness ; then fry them in the fat of salt pork, or butter ;
they are a luxury."

.In England the tops are considered excellent food when
boiled tender, and served up with poached eggs and melted
butter. They are by some considered salutary for persons
inclined to consumption. Those afflicted with any symp-
toms indicating an approach te such a state of health, can-
not harm themselves by eating the tops, when they are to
be got, which is in the month of April, and if the roots are
eaten when attainable, they may, perhaps, answer a still
better purpose, and even the liquor in which they are boiled
may possess some of the most valuable properties of the
plant.

SCORZONERA.
SCORSONERE. Scorzonera Hispanica.

THIS plant has long been raised in British gardens, for
culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient in soups,
OB account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil
and eat them like Carrots, &c.; in which case they should be
deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for half
an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised precisely
ia the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown, in,

o* SEA-KALE.

April, in a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in
Autumn, and continue good all the Winter. They last from
three to four years, according to the quality of the earth and
care bestowed on them ; but it is better to raise a few from
seed every year.

SEA-KALE.

CHOU MARIN. Crambe maritima.

THIS plant is found on the sea-shore, in the southern parts
of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it
appears above ground, the inhabitants remove the pebbles or
sand, with which it is usually covered, to the depth of several
inches, and cut off the young and tender leaves and stalks.
as yet unexpanded and in a blanched state, close to the
crown of the root ; it is then in its greatest perfection.
When the leaves are full grown, they become hard and
bitter, and the plant is not eatable,

It is cultivated in private gardens, and for sale in various
parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely res
pecting the mode of treating this plant; many conceiving
that stones, gravel and sea sand, are essential to its growth,
have gone to the expense of providing them ; but it has
been discovered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in
a rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great
depth.

The seed of Sea-Kale may be sown in October, or as
early in the Spring as the ground can be brought into good
condition, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or
sixteen inches asunder ; the plants should be afterwards
thinned out to the distance of six or eight inches from each
other in the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoe-
ings through the Summer. When the plants are a year old,
every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant
in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart ;
these may be transplanted into good ground prepared as
directed for Asparagus. Plant two rows in each bed, about
inches apart j tlje best way is to make two drills

SEA-KALE. 83

three inches deep, and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen
or sixteen inches from each other; when these drills are
filled, the crowns of the plants will be covered nearly two
inches, but they will soon push through the earth. The
plants left in the seed bed may form a permanent bed, which
should be forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this
being done, lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure,
and incorporate it with the earth around the plants.

Some make new plantations with pieces of old roots,
which should be cut up in lengths of about two inches, and
planted in March or April, three or four inches deep, at the
distance before directed for the plants.

At the approach of Winter, the leaves will die away, and
disappear. The beds should be then thickly covered with
dung, leaves, or sea weed ; this will not only protect the
plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in
the Spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this
may be taken off, or if well rotted, it may be mixed up with
the earth; the crowns of the plants should then be covered
to the depth often or twelve inches for blanching.

Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some common
sand and gravel ; and others with large garden pots, inverted
and placed immediately over the plants. If these pots be
covered up with fresh horse dung, it \vill forward the shoots
in growth, and make them sweeter and more tender.

When your plants have been covered in either method
three or four weeks, examine them, and if you find that the
stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin
cutting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considera-
ble length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in
this plant there is not that successive growth which there is
in Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you see the
heads of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time you
uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which
Broccoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it
an excellent substitute ; and this greatly enhances the
value of the plant ; as Broccoli does not stand our Winter
frosts, and can only be had when carefully protected, as
recommended under that head ; but this plant is sufficiently

4 ISKIRRETv

hardy to bear our Winter frost, without much injury. You
are not to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in
that case it would injure their next year's bearing : some of
the shoots should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper
vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care
should be taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the
roots by cutting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale
should be dressed soon after it is cut, as the goodness of the
article greatly depends on its not being long exposed to the air.

If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a
small becL, about three feet wide> and thirty inches deep ;
fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it. This will
make the plants grow ; and if hand lights are set over them,
it will accelerate their growth.

To have this rare vegetable in perfection, it should be
cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water,
seasoned with salt, for half an hour ; then wash it in fresh
water, and put it into the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling
briskly., skim clean, and let off steam. When the stalks are
tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty-five
minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and
serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments
as may be most agreeable to the palate.

SKIRRET.

CHERVIS, ou GYROLE. Sium sisarum.

THIS plant is first cultivated by seed, and afterwards by
offsets taken from the old roots, and planted very early in
tlie Spring, and before they begin to shoot ; but it is best to
raise a small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow
longer than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be
sticky. The seed may be sown in drills the latter part of
March, or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify,
Parsnips, &c. In Autumn, when the leaves begin to decay,
the roots are fit to use, and continue so till they begin to
shoot in the Spring.

SHALLOT. 85

Skirrets should be planted in a light, moist soil, for in dry
land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves
wet.

The root of the Skirret is composed of several fleshy
tubers as large as a man's finger, and joined together at the
top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper
and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil
and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the
taste and flavor of a Parsnip, and are by some considered a
great deal more palatable.

SHALLOT.

ECHALOTE. Allium ascalonicum.

The true Shallot, is a native of Palestine, and is considered
to possess the most agreeable flavor of any of the Allium
genus ; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation.

It is propagated by planting bulbs, or offset?, in the fall
of the year, which may be set out with a dibble, in rows
twelve inches apart, by four or six inches distance in the
rows ; or they may be placed in drills, two or three inches
deep, and covered up with a trowel or hoe.

The gardeners about New- York plant large quantities of
the bulbs towards the end of August, and early in Septem-
ber ; by this means they are enabled t6 supply the market
in April and May with a mild Allium, which while green
meets a ready sale.

Tho?e intended for seed may remain in the ground until
June or July, after the tops die down, the bulbs must be
taken up, and the offsets divided : these should be kept in
a dry place to plant the ensuing Autumn.

It will require at least four bushels of bulbs, if measured
when fitst taken from the ground, to plant a quarter of an
acre ; because after they are trimmed and deprived of their
seed stalks, the bulk will be reduced one half.

8

86
SPINACH, OR SPINAGE.

EPINARD. Spinacia.

VARIETIES.

Large Round-leaved. Holland or Lamb's Quarter*

Broad-leaved Savoy. New Zealand.

THE Spinacia oleracea, or common Spinach, is very
hardy, and consequently a very important vegetable for cold
climates. It merits attention, from its being extremely
wholesome and palatable, and from its keeping green even
after having been cooked. It makes a delicious dish when
served up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c.

As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to
advantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should
prepare such ground as may have been occupied by Summer
crops, towards the end of August, and by having it well
manured for this crop, it will be in good condition for Beets,
Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c., the Spring follow:'ng.

If the ground be got ready, so as to have several beds
sown in succession, from the first to the end of September,
the forwardest of these, if covered up with straw at the
approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table
when other vegetables are scarce, and the latter crops will
recover the effects of a hard Winter, and produce a whole-
some vegetable early in the Spring.

If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and
April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the
approach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise
it in perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills
about a foot apart, and kept cultivated by frequent hoeing ;
this will keep it in a growing state, and consequently pre-
vent its running up to seed so quick as it otherwise would

It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground ;
let the ground be well manured with good strong dung, and
it will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant
produce.

If Spinach be cultivated in drills a foot apart, it will
fequre from seven to eight pounds of seed to plant an acre

SQUASH. 8T

of ground. Some gardeners use more than double that
quantity in sowing broadcast.

Be careful to pick Spinach exceedingly clean, and wash
it in five or six waters previous to cooking it. Some cook
Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, others boil it in
water; but the best way is to put it into a saucepan that
will just hold it, without water, then strew a little salt upon
It, and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick
fire ; and when you find the Spinach shrunk and fallen to
the bottom, and the juice which comes from it boil up, it is
done. In order that it be rendered capable of absorbing a
moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &c. which are
indispensable with green vegetables, let it be well drained
in a sieve, or colander, before it is dished.

The New Zealand Spinach or Tetragona expansa, is of
late introduction into this country ; its nature seems to be
opposite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat
better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer,
by planting the seeds in April and May. Being of luxuriant
growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and
about two seeds in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use
during the Summer, and until late in the Autumn,

SQUASH.

GOURDE GIRAUMON ou POTIRON, Cycurbita rnelopepa.

VARIETIES,

Early Bush Squash. Vegetable Marrow.

Early Crookneck, Winter Crookneck.

Large Cushaw. Lima Cocoanut.

THE several varieties of Squashes are very useful in this
and other warm climates, as they can be grown in perfection
in the Summer, and therefore prove a good substitute for
Turnips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot wea^
ther. They should be planted in hills, prepared in the same
manner as for Cucumbers and Melons, and their subsequent
management is the same in every respect. The bush kinds

88 TOMATO.

should be planted three or four feet apart, and the running
kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, as some
will run more than others. It is always best to plant five or
six seeds in a hill, to guard against accidents ; as when the
plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two or three
in a hill. One ounce of Squash Seed will plant from fifty
to one hundred hills, according to the sorts and size of the
seed.

The fruit of the Early Summer Squashes is generally
gathered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so
tender as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb
nail. The Winter Squasbes should be suffered to ripen, and
collected together in October, in the manner recommended
in the calendar for that month.

All kinds of Squashes should, after having been boiled
tender be pressed as close as possible between two wooden
trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of the
same materials, until dry, and then prepared for the table
in the same manner as Turnips.

TOMATO.

TOMATE, ou POMME D'AMOUR. Solarium lycopcrsicuni.

VARIETIES.
Large Squash-shaped. j Cherry-shaped.

THE Tomato, or Love Apple^ is much cultivated for its
fruit, in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable
acid flavour ; it is also stewed and dressed in various ways,
and is considered very wholesome.

The seed should be sown early in March, in a slight hot-
bed, and the plants set out in the open ground, if settled
warm weather, in the early part of May. Tn private gar-
dens it will be necessary to plant them near a fence, or to
provide trellises for tbem to be trained to, in the manner
recommended for Nasturtiums ; they will, bowever, do
very well, if planted out four feet distant from each other
every way.

TOMATOE. 89

Tomatoes may he brought to perfection late in the sum-
mer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week
in May ; these plants will be fit to transplant early in June,
and the fruit may ripen in time for preserves or Catsup.

One ounce of good Tomato Seed will produce upwards
of four thousand plants ; and a single plant has been known
to yield upwards of a bushel of fruit.

Tomatoes may be preserved in a stone or glazed earthen
pot, for use in the Winter, by covering them with water in
which a sufficient quantity of salt has been dissolved to
make it strong enough to bear an egg. Select perfectly
ripe berries, and cover the pot with a plate in such a man.
ner that it presses upon the fruit without bruising it. — Pre-
vious to cooking these Tomatoes, they should be soaked in
fresh water for several hours.

Besides the various modes of preparing this delicious
vegetable for the table, it may be preserved in sugar, and
used either as a dessert, or on the tea-table, as a substitute
fox Peaches or other sweetmeats. It also makes exquisite
pies and tarts, and excellent catsup.

A celebrated writer observes, that " the common Tomatoe
made into a gravy,, by stewing over the fire, and used as a
sauce for meat, has been known to quicken the action of
the liver and of the bowels, better than any medicine he
ever made use of.;> He states further, that — " When
afflicted with inaction of the bowels, head-ache, a bad taste
of the mouth, straitness of the chest, and a dull and painful
heaviness of the region of the liver, the whole of these
symptoms are removed by Tomatoe sauce, and the mind,
in the course of some few hours,, is put in perfect tune."

To make them into catsup, use one pint of salt to one
peck of Tomatoes ; bruise them, and let them stand two*
days ; then strain them dry, and boil the juice until the
scum stops rising, with two ounces of black pepper, the
same quantity of pimento or allspice, one ounce of ginger,.
«tfie of cloves, and half an ounce of mace.

8*

90
TURNIP.

NAVET. Brassica rapa.

Early Garden Stone.
Early White Dutch.
Swan's Egg.
Early Reef Top.
Strap Leaved Red Top.
Early GreeiiTop.
Yellow Stone.
Long Yellow French.

VARIETIES.

^ - Large English Norfolk.

Long Tankard, or Hanover.

White Flat, or Globe.
c. | Large Bullock.
^ j Yellow Altringham.

Dale's Yellow Hybrid.

Yellow Aberdeen.

Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Baga.

THIS is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man and
beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. Its being the
last esculent vegetable on our catalogue, that is raised from
seed sold at our several seed stores, I shall endeavour to
stimulate those of our yeomanry who have hitherto neg-
lected the culture of this field as well as garden production,
to exertion and diligence, by inserting a few extracts from
a paper that now lies before me.

" Culture of Turnips. — Until the beginning of the eigh-
teenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only in
gardens, or other small spots, for culinary purposes ; but
Lord Town send, who attended King George the First in
one of his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secre-
tary of State, observed the Turnip cultivated in open and
extensive fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility
over lands naturally barren, on his return to England,
brought over some of the seed, and strongly recommended
the practice which he had witnessed, to the adoption of his
own tenants, who occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover.
The experiment succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Tur-
nips gradually spread over the whole county of Norfolk,
and has made its way into every other district of England.
The reputation of the county as an agricultural district,
dates from the vast improvements of heaths, wastes, sheep
walks, and warrens, by enclosing and manuring ; the fruits
of the zealous exertions of Lord Townsend, and a few
neighbouring land owners, which were, ere long, imitated
by others. Since these improvements were effected, rents

TURNIP. 91

have risen in that county from one or two shillings to twenty
shillings an acre ; a county consisting chiefly of sheep walks
and rabbit warrens, has been rendered highly productive ;
and, by dint of management, what was thus gained has been
preserved and improved to the present moment. Some of
the linest grain crops in the world are now growing upon
land, which, before the introduction of the Turnip husbandry,
produced a very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and
half-starved rabbits.

" Mr. Colquhoun, in his ' Statistical Researches,' estima-
ted the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, at fourteen
million pounds sterling, (equal to upwards of SIXTY MILLIONS
OFDOLLAR3.) But when we further recollect, that it enables
the agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which with-
out its aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural
barrenness, that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition,
and also to insure a good crop of Barley, and a kind plant
of Clover; and that this Clover is found a most excellent
preparative for Wheat, it will appear that the subsequent
advantages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely
exceed its estimated value as fodder for cattle." (Sir Wil-
liam Scott in the Quaterly Review.) As I have undertaken
to " assist the Young Gardener," I shall proceed to point
out the most proper means of cultivating this truly valuable
vegetable in his garden.

The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may
be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other
things of equal value. It must however be granted, that
some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better
than others, and that in general, exotic plants will succeed
best in such soils as are nearest like their own native soil.
As we have not always a choice,! would inform the Young
Gardener, if he has a very light soil which is not suitable
for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops
of Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first
crop early in March, and that for his second in the middle
of August. For general crops, it will be better to have
ground manured with short rotten dung, or compost con-

H5* TURNIP.

taining a considerable proportion of coal, wood, peat, or
soaper's ashes. Ground that has been well manured for
preceding crops, and also ground fresh broken up, will suit
well for Turnips.

Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should
procure a suitable quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so
as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. It should be
recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout within
forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently
whole crops are devoured before a plant is seen above
ground. A peck of either of these ingredients, mixed with
about an equal quantity of ashes, or even dry road dust,
sown morning and evening for the first week after sowing
the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided it be so
contrived that the wind carry it over the whole piece of
land, and as it often changes, this may be effected by cross-
ing the land in a different direction every time according as
the wind may serve.

As some very erroneous ideas have been extensively cir-
culated in respectable periodicals, respecting the cultivation
of this valuable root, I would earnestly recommend that
particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the seed,
for if the first crop be not sown soon enough* to be gathered
early in July, they are seldom fit for the table, being hot,
stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop intended for Autumn
and Winter use be sown long before August, unless it be a
very favourable season^ if even they escape the attacks of
insects and reptiles, they often get so defective, that they
seldom keep the >Vinter.

To have Turnips in perfection, they should be hoed in
about a month after they are sown,, or by the time the plants
spread a circle of about four inches, and again, in about a
month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nine
inches apart, they will yield the cultivator more profit this
way, than when left to nature, as. is too frequently done.

It is generally admitted that one pound of Turnip seed is
amply sufficient for an acre of ground, yet some will use
considerably more, because of the difficulty of distributing so
small a quantity of seed regularly broadcast. This, difficulty

TURNIP. 93

is however obviated by sowing the seed in drills, and
although it may seem a tedious process to those who ha?e
no other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities
afforded of hoeing between the rows, more than compen-
sates for the extra labour.

I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of
Turnip seed, in drills a foot apart, by which means he made
it extend over upwards of half an acre of land ; and by hoe-
ing the plants twice, he had the gratification of pulling four
hundred bushels of handsome Turnips, which is more than
is generally taken from an acre of land cultivated in tire
ordinary way.

The most esteemed kinds of Turnips for gardens, are
marked in the catalogue, I shall therefore leave my readers
to their own choice.

As the Yellow Swedish, or Russian Turnip, or Ruta
Baga, is in great repute, I shall quote a few lines from the
u American Gardener," by William Cobbett, the great advo-
cate for Ruta Daga.

II The Swedish Turnip, so generally preferred for table
use here, and so seldom used for the table in England, ought
to be sown early in June, in rows a foot apart, and thinned
to three inches in the rows. About the middle of July they
should be transplanted upon ridges three feet apart, (in a
garden,) and during their growth, ought to be kept clear of
weeds, and to be dug between, twice at least, as deep as a
good spade can be made to go ; but the Swedish Turnip is
of further use as producing the most excellent greens in the
Spring, and at a very early season. To draw this benefit
from them, the best way is to leave a row or two in the
ground, and when the Winter is about to set in, cover them
all over with straw, or cedar boughs. Take these off when
the Winter breaks up, and you will have very early and
most excellent greens ; and when you have done with the
greens, the Turnips are very good to eat."

If seeds of the Russia Turnip be sown in drills, about
the middle of July, or even early in August, they will mak«
fine roots by Autumn, without transplanting, provided the
ground be good, and well worked. When the plants are

94

AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance of
twelve or fifteen inches from each other ; another hoeing
will be necessary in five or six weeks afterwards. This
will make them grow freely.

The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in
England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered by
epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To
have them in perfection, they should, after having been de-
prived of their rind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans-
versely in the centre, and then after being boiled tender, let
them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible ; at the
same time, let a lump of butter and a due portion of Cayenne
pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the Tur-
nips until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the
meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most
esteemed.

AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

GRAINES D'HERBES AROMATIQUES, ODORIFERANTES ET
A L'USAGE DE LA CUISINE.

Angelica Garden,

Anise,

Basil Sweet,

Borage,

Burnet Garden,

Caraway,

Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet,

Clary,

Coriander,

Dill,

* Fennel, Common,

* do. Sweet,
Mangold, Pot,

* Marjoram, Sweet,

* Mint, Fpear,

* do. Pepper,

* do. Pennyroyal,

* Sage, Common,

* Sage, Red,
Savory, Summer,

* dp. Winter^

Angelica atropurpurea.
Pimpinella anisum.
Ocymum basilicum.
Borago qfficinalis.
Poturium sanguisorba.
Carum carui.

Scandix odorata cerefoliwfrk.
Salvia sclara.
Coriandrum sativum.
Anethum graveolens,
do. f&niculum.
do. dulce.
Calendula officinalis.
Origanum marjoranOr.
Mentha virides.

do. piperita.

do. pulegium.
Salvia officinalis.

do. clandestinoid.es*
Satureja hortensis.
do.

MEDICINAL HERBS. 95

^Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus.

* Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris.

* do. Lemon, do. serpyllum.

Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour
and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs,
and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As
only a small quantity of these are necessary in private gap-
dens, a bye corner may be allotted for them, and such mecfi-
cal herbs as may be wanted in a family.

It may be necessary for me to explain, as we go along,
that there are three principal descriptive names given to
plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The
Annuals being but of one season's duration, are raised every
year from seed. The Biennials are raised from seed one year,
continue till the second, then perfect their seed, and soon
after die ; some of these should be also raised every year
from seed. The Perennials may be also raised from seed,
but when once raised, they will continue on the same roots
many years. Those marked * are of the latter description?
and may be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or
partings, of the roots. Those who have not already a
plantation of these herbs, may sow seeds of any of the
different kinds in March or April, in drills about an inch
deep, and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The
plants may be afterwards transplanted into separate beds ;
or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart, the seed
may be sown in them, and the plants afterwards thinned out
to proper distances, according to the natural growth of the
different kinds of plants.

PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND;
OTHER PURPOSES.

GRAINES DE PLANTES MEDICINAL.

Bene, Scsamum orientate.

Boneset, or Thoroughwort, Eupatorium perfoliatum.

* Balm, Melissa qfficinalis.

Bean, Castor Oil) Recinus communis.

MEDICINAL HERBS.

Burdock,

Catnep,

Celandine,

* Chamomile,

* Comfrey,

* Elecampane,
Feverfew,

* Horehound,

* Horseraint,

* Hyssop,

* Lavender,
Lovage,

* Mallow, Marsh,

* Motherwort,

* Patience Dock,

* Pinkroot, Carolina,
Poppy Opium, (annual,)

* Rosemary,

* Rue, Garden,
Saffron, Bastard,
Scullcap, or Mad Dog Plant,
Snakeroot, Virginian.

* Sorrel,

* Southernwood,

* Speedwell, Virginian,

* Spikenard,

* Tansy,

* Wormwood,

Arctium lappa.
Nepeta cataria.
Chelidonum majus.
Anthemis nobUis.
Spmphytum officinale.
Inula hdenium.
Chrysanthemum partJtenium.
Marubiam vulgare.
Monarda punctata.
Hys^opus officinalis.
L-dvendula Spica.
Ligusticum Icvisticum,
Althea officinalis.
Leonurus cardiaca.
Rumex patcntia.
Spigdia Marylandica.
Papaver somnifcrum

Rosmarinus officinalis.

Ruta grateolcns.

Carthamus tinctorius.

Scutcllaria latcriflora.

Aristolochia scrpcntaria.

Rumex acctosa,

Artemisia abrotamtm. "

Veronica Virginica.

Aralia raccmosa.

Tanacetum vulgarc.

Artemisia absinthium.

THE generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal herbs,
may be raised from seed sown in March and April. The
greater part of the above described plants are Perennial, and
will multiply from seeds they drop, or from partings from
the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus raised,
should be planted at suitable distances from each other
early in the Spring.

The beds should be afterwards kept free from weeds, and
as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry
day, and spread in a shady place to dry for Winter use. The
best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub
them, so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in
bottles or boxes, each kind separate ; they should be after-
wards kept in a dry place.

AROMATIC HERBS, &C> . 97

In the month of October, the herb beds should be ex-
amined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants,
should be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or green-
house for the Winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory,
Southern wood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their
tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet,
Tarragon, Tansey, Pennyroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel,
Horehound, Mint, Lovage, and other kinds of hardy peren-
nial herbs, should be cut down close to the ground.

After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and
loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ;
but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint,
Running Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not well
admit of digging; therefore, after the stalks are cut down,
and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleyo, and strew
some of the loose earth evenly over the beds ; and if the
ground be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten
dung will be of considerable service.

This dressing will give proper nurture and protection to
the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the garden, and
in Spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour.

Having finished the catalogue, I proceed to give direc-
tions for making the most of a piece of ground well ma-
nured for early crops. In the general directions at the com-
mencement, I observed that good rich manure was indis-
pensably necessary t» the production of some particular
kinds of vegetables ; it may be further observed, that rich
ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re-
quires some attention to make use of it to the best ad vantage.
If the gardener has leisure to dig such ground in March or
April, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Egg-
plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Radishes,
Spinach, Lettuce, or other small Salads on it, by leaving a
space for his hills or drills ; or Radish seed may be sown
lightly over the beds of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, &e., but
they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure
the other plants* When the first crops are gathered, it
requires a little consideration before a second is planted, in
order that a sufficient quantity of the best ground be

9

98 FLAW OP BE0S, &C.

reserved for the most particular and valuable varieties of
vegetables.

That I may be understood, I have adopted the following'
plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same
purpose as bringing my readers on the ground.

No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart:
Marsh 25. — Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seeds.

Sow Radish seed.

Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seeds.

The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter-
mediate ground for the other plants.

No. 2. Drills ten inches apart -T

April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed.

15. — Plant early Cabbage Plants.

April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed.

By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground,
the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered.

If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of
July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Black

PLAN OF BEDS, &C. . 99

Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late heading kinds, the
ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach,
Fetticus, Lettuce, &-c. in which case it will require a fresh
coat of manure.

No. 3. Drills 10 or 12 inches apart.

March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse Radish.

Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed, (see page 59.)

Plant slips or cuttings of Horse Radish. '

If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on
this bed, which should be pulled while young.

Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progress in growth,
and when full grown, they may be gathered, without dis-
turbing the Horse Radish.

No. 4. — Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart :
March 20.— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants.

Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants.

Hoe them the first week in April — previous to hoeing the
second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and
plant Beet or Carrot seed ; this may be covered up in

100 PLAN OF BEDS, &C.

hoeing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong,,
the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended
to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce Fall
Cabbage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c,

No. 5. — Rows or drills, sixteen inches apart.

March 25.— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants.

Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants.

April 20.— Plant Early York Cabbage Plants, either between the row
or between the Lettuce.

As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it
will soon cover the ground.

This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the
varieties above mentioned, except Cabbnge, the roots of
which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted
with Cabbage twice in succession.

The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen
of what may be done on a small piece of good ground. If
the young gardener will take the trouble to keep an account
of his transactions, he would soon make discoveries of still
greater importance. If he be not sufficiently acquainted
with the different varieties of Cabbage plants, for instance,
so as to distinguish the one from, the other, he, by making a
memorandum at the time of sowing the seed, would soon get
acquainted with the different varieties of plants ; he would
also discover the difference in the growing of his seeds, andi
know who to blame if any particular kind should not
come up..

HOT-BEDS. 101

The following represents a Hot-Bed with four sashes, sown March 1.

Early Dwarf

Early Battersea

Early Lettuce

Egg-Plant

t

Early York Drumhead, or

Tomatoe Seed,

Seed, &c.

Peppers,

partitioned off

or other Spring

other Summer

&c. in shallow

as directed in

note to article

Cabbage Seed.

Cabbage Seed

drills.

Egg-plant

It may be necessary to remind my readers of the necessity
of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, Toma-
toe, and Egg-plant seeds in hot-beds the last week in
February, or early in March ; for this purpose, let some
fresh stable dung and rich compost be engaged socfc'rehand.
Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it
is always safest to make them in pits from eighteen hflchcslo
two feet deep ;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug
in Autumn,or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground
intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and gocd
earth may be obtained from the pits without any difficulty.

The frames should be made of good sound plunks ; the
back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones may
be so sloped as to make a fifteen inch plank do for the front.
A frame calculated for four sashes of three feet in width by
six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen
feet long, and about six broad at the top.

The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened,
the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the

* When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should
be made on level ground, in order that linings may be applied to the
outside of the frame, which by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of
the bed, and thus bring tender vegetables to maturity, which would
otherwise suffer from a decline of the heat. For particular directions,
see Observations on Forcing Vegetables — also article on Forcing
Asparagus.

9*

102 ON FORCING VEGETABLES.

depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; if the dung be in a
good heating condition, cover it with six or eight inches-
deep of mould, then lay on the sashes, and protect the beda
from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days
the rank steam may pass off; it will then be necessary to
stir the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the growth
of young weeds that maybe germinating; then sow the
seed either in shallow drills or broadcast, as equally as pos-
sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to he
sown or sifted over the seeds. The beds should be after-
wards attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower.
This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the
raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such
other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds
made earlier in the season, or for forcing, will require a
greater substance of manure. See calendar for January,
February, and March.

: • OBSERVATIONS

ON

FORCING VEGETABLES.

BEFORE I commenced preparing this work for the press,
I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing
fruits as well as vegetables ; but when I considered my
motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con-
cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect
the greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the
several branches of Florticulture, some are of greater im-
portance than others ; and as the products of the kitchen
garden form important articles of food for the bulk of man-
kind, it should be our first care to treat largely on the sub*
ject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to this is
the cultivation of fruits, and the production of ornamental
plants and flowers, each of which will be noticed in the
respective departments.

(K* FORCING VEGETABLES. 103

As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or
ratlier forwarding vegetables by artificial means, I shall
endeavour to confine my observations to such points as are
of primary importance ; and in order to convince my
readers of the importance of this subject, I shall first
endeavour to show the utility of an artificial climate suited
to the various species of useful plants. In England, a
regular succession of vegetables can be obtained from the
natural ground in every month of the }7ear, and their fruits,
from the Summer heat being moderate, are of longer con-
tinuance than with us, and yet they make gardening a
science, and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity
of man, to the production of fruits and vegetables out of the
ordinary season.

I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine
Apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in forcing
houses ; nor would it be advisable with us to undertake to
raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c. in frames throughout the
severe Winters of our Northern States, but it must be
acknowledged, that the extreme heat of our Summers is as
detrimental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable
kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our Win-
ters, and for those reasons, artificial aid is more necessary
here in the Winter and Spring of the year than in England.
The inhabitants of that country may obtain a supply of the
different varieties of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole,
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Rale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb,
Spinach, Turnips, and Salads in general, a great part of
the year, from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we were to
attempt to supply our markets with culinary vegetables at
all times, in any thing like the abundance that they have
them there, we must, out of the ordinary season for garden-
ing operations, turn our attention to the protecting and for-
warding as well as the forcing system.

Before I proceed to show the method of forcing vegeta-
bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that
in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the
nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour
to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish.

101 ON FORCING VEGETABLES.

and support them. I have, in another part of this work,,
endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air and moisture, are
each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup-
plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances.

In the midst of our Northern Winters, which is the usual
time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west
winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have
not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not
be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any
kind of vegetable, until such times as he can impart a
tolerable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air
will soon destroy the fruits of his labour.

Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames,
is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of
March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials
must be regulated by the season of the year at which trie
work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the
hot-beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising
half hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in
the Spring, may be made in the manner recommended for
the common hot-bed; but if substantial heat is required to be
kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings
as the heat decreases; and the dung should undergo a
regular process of preparation, according to the use it is
intended for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in
order to furnish suitable mould to the different species of
plants; for this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and
mould, leaves, tan, turf, sand, and other light manures and
decayed animal dung, should be collected together.

In some cases when a slight hot-bed is recommended for
forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling
Cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose for
Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed
may be spawned for Mushroons, if required.

If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the
Winter is past, great precaution must be used lest the plants
should be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed l.y
heat for want of air. To prevent the former accident^
warm dung sJkmld be placed around the frames, and $b&

FORCING ASPARAGUS. 105

sashes should be covered with mats and boards every night.
If full air cannot be admitted in the day time, the sashes
must be slidden down to Jet off the steam, at the same time
mats may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air
entering to the plants.

If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some-
times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is
generally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake
sharpened at the end, or with a crow-bar; which hole*
should be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced.
in lining hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the
beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat from the
fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of the bed.

A Fahrenheit Thermometer should be always at hand,
at the time of forcing, to be used when necessary, to regu-
late the heat in the beds ; and the water that is used in
cultivating plants in frames, should be warmed to the tem-
perature of the air, or according to the heat required for the
various kinds of plants, which will be shown in the annexed
articles.

FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS.

As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme
bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less
trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds,
because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a very suit-
able bed may be formed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in
the usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and
leaves be used, it should be in a state past heating violently
before it is made into a bed ; but if the gardener has no
choice of materials, he may make his hot-bed in the usual
way, and if the depth of heating materials be two feet, he
may lay on a foot of old hot-bed dung, tan or any light
compost, that will admit of the heat passing through it.

It may be necessary to state further, that though too much
bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the
production of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is
generally effected in a month or six weeks after the oow*

I FORCING ASPARAGUS.

mencement of the operations. For the purpose of keeping
up a regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied
around the frame, and changed as occasion requires.

Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old,
trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when
one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then
proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep-
ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay,
till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the
buds and roots some fine vegetable, or other rich mould,
working it in amongst them with your fingers, and cover the
beds over about an inch thick> and above that lay three
inches in depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan,
oj" any other light compost, that will admit the water to run
quickly through.

If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the
sashes till it begins to decline. The temperature at night
should never be under 50° and it may rise to 65° without
injury ; when the buds begin to appear, as much air must
be daily admitted as the weather will permit. In two or
three days after the beds are planted, the heat will begm
to rise : the beds should then have a moderate supply of
water applied from a watering pot with the rose on ; repeat
such watering every three or four days.

When the buds are up three inches above the surface,
they are. fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven
inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of
the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, twist them oft'
from the crown : this is a better method than to cut them ;
at least it is less dangerous to the rising budsr which come
up thick in succession.

An ordinary sized frame calculated for three sashes will
hold from three hundred to five hundred plants, according to,
the age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a
dish every day for about three weeks. On the above esti-
mate, if a constant succession of Asparagus be required, it
will be necessary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty
days.

FORWARDING BEANS. 107

Rhubarb and Sea Kale may be, and sometimes are,
forced in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most
general mode is to excite them where they stand in the open
garden, by the application of warm dung.

FORWARDING BROAD BEANS OR ENGLISH
DWARFS.

In the article, Broad Bean, vicia faba, I have already
urged the necessity of early planting, in order that a full
crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather ;
but as the ground is often frozen at the time they ought to
be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes,
and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in
March. If the plants thus raised be not nursed too tender,
they may be transplanted into the open ground the latter
end of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit
early in June.

Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of
ground late in Autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing,
and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame
placed over and protected from extreme cold, the seedlings
may be raised therein, and transplanted into the gardfen
as directed in page 31.

Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or
frames, may, in the month of February, plant some of the
seed about two inches deep in boxes kept in a cellar, or in
earth on the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant
in the open garden towards the latter end of March or early
in April.

FORCING KIDNEY BEANS.

The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be
raised in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to
mature them. The temperature within the frames should
be kept up to 60, and may rise to 70 or 75°, provided the
steam is let off. In order to insure sufficient heat to bring

108 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER.

them into a bearing state, the plants may be first raised ill
small pots plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be
prepared, earthed over with light rich compost, six inches
deep, and the Beans planted therein, and covered one inch.

The second hot-bed should be earthed over to the depth
of eight or nine inches : and the Beans transplanted as
soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows
twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in
the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When the season
is so far advanced that one bed, with the help of linings,
will bring the plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted
at once to remain for podding ; or if the gardener should
choose to mature his crop in the open ground, he may raise
his plants in boxes or pots in the month of April, and
plant them out in a warm border early in May.

Beans raised in hot-beds, will require considerable atten-
tion ; — cover the glasses every night with mats and boards ;
admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle
waterings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in
growth, to strengthen them.

FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER.

In treating of the method of cultivating this family of
plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an
artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce
them to arrive at full perfection in the Winter and early part
of the Spring. Such gardeners as may have provided
frames for the purpose of making hot-beds in the Spring,
may make use of them through the Winter, in protecting
Broccoli and Cauliflower; and as the frames will not be
wanted until the severity of the Winter is past, such plants
as may be left at that season, may be protected by a cover-
ing of boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may require.

If Cauliflower be required early in the Summer, the
plants raised in the preceding Autumn should be trans-
planted from the beds into the open ground in the month of
March, and be protected by hand glasses. This would

FORCING CUCUMBERS.

insure their heading before the approach of extreme warm
weather, which is very injurious to Cauliflower.

FORCING CUCUMBERS.

To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an
object of emulation with every gardener. The business of
forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks
before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should
be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short
prickly, other, the Green Cluster and Southgate ; and
seed that is two or three years old is generally preferred, as
it is not so apt to run to vines.

The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich
mould, and placed in a hot-bed ; and some sow the seeds in
the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In
either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their
two seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots ; put
three plants into each pot ; when this is done, apply water
warmed to the heat of the bed, and shut down the glasses,
keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the
glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are about
a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruiting
bed.

Well preparing the dung, is of the greatest importance in
forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made
into a bed, it cannot be done after, as it requires turning
and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly.
Fresh dung from the stable should be laid into a heap,
turned three times, and well mixed with a fork ; if any
appears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it
between the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole
may have a regular fermentation.

A dry situation should be clio?en for beds to be formed
on, so that no water can settle under the dung. The sub-
stance of dung from the bottom 6f the bed should be from
three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and

10

the moulding should be done as soon as the bed is settled?
and has a lively regular tempered heat. Lay the earth
evenly over the dung, about six inches deep; after it has
lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning
effect are discovered, by the mould turning of a whitish
colour, and caking, it will be fit to receive the plants; but if
the earth appears burnt, or of a rank smell, some fresh sweet
mould should be provided for the hills, and placed in the
frame to get warm, at the same time, vacancies should be
made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes.

After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and
ihe heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth
formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each
sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of
the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out
such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their
roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid-
die of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered
with water heated to the air of the bed, and kept shaded till
they have taken root.

The temperature should be kept up to 60°, and may rise
to 80° without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed
to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timeJy
linings of well prepared dung must be applied all round
the frame ; begin by lining the back part first ; cut away the
old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank
two feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of
the frames : as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings around
the remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be
careful to let off the steam, and give air to the plants at all
opportunities.

Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of «t
mild day, in early forcing; and in the afternoon in the
advanced season of hot sunny weather. Some use water
impregnated with sheep or pigeons' dung. As the root*
begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be
enlarged by gathering up the earth around them, a supply
of good mould should be furnished to gather up as req,*iredt
for earthing around the plants/

FORCING CUCUMBERS. Ill

When the plants have made one or two joints, stop them,
sifter which they generally put forth two shoots, each of
which let run till they have made one or two clear joints,
and then stop them ; and afterwards continue throughout
the season to stop them at every joint ; this will strengthen
the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early.

The following artificial operation is recommended by
Abercroinbie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the
production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In
plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation
is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms
are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this ope-
ration.

" The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, " bears male
and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The
latter only produce the fruit, which appears first in minia-
ture, close under the base, even before the flower expands.
There is never any in the males ; but these are placed in
the vicinity of the females, and are absolutely necessary,
by the dispersion of their farina, to impregnate the female
blossom ; the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its
full size, and the seeds will be abortive. The early plants
under glass, not having the full current of nutural air, nor
the assistance of bees and other winged insects to convey
the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to
effect the impregnation. At the time of fructification, watch
the plants daily : and as soon as the female flowers and
some male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the
fruit the same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off
a male Mossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk.
Hold this between the finger and thumb ; pull away th*
flower leaves, or petals, close to the stamens and antherse,
or central part, which apply close to the pistil in the bosom
of the female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge
thereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed
thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open,
while of a lively full expansion ; and generally perform it
in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible,
for every impregnation, as the males are usually soore

11*2 FORWARDING LETTUCE.

abundant than the female blossoms. By this manage meat,
the young fruit will be soon observed to swell freely."

Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in from
fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting ; and oftei/
in succession for two or three months or more, in the same
beds, by good culture.

FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HANI>
GLASSES.

If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at
an early season, the plants mny be raised in pots as before
directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth,
or in hot-bed ridges. A hand glass should be provided for
each hill, which must bo kept close down every night, and
in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The
plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking oif the glass
in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they
may be left to nature.

FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER.

Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the Winter
season, by means of gentfe hot-beds, or in cold-beds in ado
in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cab-
bage plants, &3. (See article Cabbnge.) For such Head
Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, tlte
Hardy Green, Dutch, and Egyptian Coss, are the most
suitable kinds to sow; and plants maybe raised in the
open border by sowing seed two or three times between the
middle of August and the first week in September. The
plants from these sowings may be set out, about six inches
apart, in cold-beds, when they are about one or two inches
high.

In September and early in October, some of the Silesia,
Sugar loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts,
may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of
sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks ;

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 113

these being planted in gentle hot-beds, in November and
December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup-
ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same
attention is necessary, as respects the protection of these
beds, as for other half hardy plants.

FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. ]

The Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in
the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon
various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it
is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon
says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size,
by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell.
In a more advanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate
colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other
kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most!
nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine
odour, and have a disagreeable smell.

Again : the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true
Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should
be gathered only in such places.

Unwholesome fungi will sometimes spring up on artificial
beds in gardens ; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a
spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine
Mushrooms. The baneful quality of the toad-stool, Agaricus
cirocus, is in general indicated by a sickly nauseous smell,
though some hurtful sorts are so far without any thing dis-
agreeable in ihe smell, as to make any criterion, drawn from
that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however,
invariably emit a grateful rich scent. The Agaricus cam-
pestris is most generally oultivated. Dr. Withering men-
tions other eatable varieties, which run considerably larger,
but which are inferior in flavor ; he says, " that a plant of
the variety Georgia, was gathered in an old hot-bed at
Birmingham, which weighed fourteen pounds, and Mr.
Stackhouse found one fifty-four inches in circumference,
hav ing a stem as thick as a man's wrist."

10*

114 FORCING MUSHROOMS.

Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year,
by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming
the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without
making a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn
into the top mould of old hot-beds.

The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, and
of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous
spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and
October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in
the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-
walks under shelter ; it is frequently found in old hot-beds
and dunghills, in the summer season, and Mushrooms of
good quality m;iy often be seen beginning to form themselves
on the surface, like large peas ; when these are observed, it
is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in hard dry
lumps of dung, the spawn having the appearance of whitish
coarse pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the
smell of a Mushroom. If spawn thus collected, be required
for immediate use, it may be planted iri the beds at once, or
it will keep three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth
adhering to it, and afterwards placed in a warm dry shed,
where there is a current of air ; but if it be not completely
dried, the spawn will exhacst itself or perish, as it will not
bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture.

Such of my readers as may have hitherto been un-
acquainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must per-
ceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is
simply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to
be capable of producing and preserving spawn ; but in order
to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as
to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh
hor^e droppings mixed with short litter, shouldbe collected j
add to this one-third of cow dun*g, and a small portion of
good earth, to cement it together ; mash the whole into a
thin compost, like grafting clay ; then form it in the shape
of bricks, which being done, set them on edge, arid frequent-
ly turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or
two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of
spawn the size of an egg: the bricks should then be laid

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 115

where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry horse
dung on a level floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile
the bricks the spa\vn side uppermost. When the pile is
snuglv formed, cover it with a small portion of warm fresh
horse-dung, sufficient in quantity to diffuse a gentle glow
through the whole. When the spawn has spread itself
through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and
they may be laid up into any dry place for use. Mushroom
spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its vege-
table powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid
up : if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself.

Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open
air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy
rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of
the same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-
houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hot-
houses, or in houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-
houses. A moderately warm light cellar is peculiarly
suited for the purpose in the Winter season, as no fire is
necessary, and but little water, the application of which
frequently proves injurious, when not judiciously managed.
Mushrooms may be also raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c.
placed in warm situations, in old-beds, in pits with glazed1
frames, and in dark frames or pit?.

The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare
a body of stable dunpf, moderately fermented, to the thick-
ness of about a yard, more or less, according to the size
and situation in which the bed is to be formed ; when the
strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be
laid over, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six
inches apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an
inch thick may be applied, and then a coat of straw. Beds
well constructed, will produce Mushrooms in five or six
week?, and will continue to produce for several months, if
oare be taken in gathering, not to destroy the young ones.
As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw
should be spread carefully over the bed.

Beds made in a convenient place where there is space aH
around, may be formed ?o I\E to make four sloping surfaces^

116 FORCING MUSHROOMS.

similar to the roof of a house ; this by being spawned ota
the four sides will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr.
Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are
his directions, taken from Loudon's Encyclopedia of Gar-
dening :

41 After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel,
&r brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry, and free from
under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick.
These should be new from the stables, and must not be
broken, and the drier the belter. They may be collected
every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the
above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment
or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should
be as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be
carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. \Vhenthis course
is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fermentation,
cover it the thickness of two inches with light dry earth ; if
sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whether it be
rich or not, the only use of earth here being for spawn to
run and mass in. Now lay another course of droppings,
and earth them over as above, when past a state of fermen-
tation : then a third course, which, in like manner, earth all
over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and
productive one, if properly managed afterwards.

Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little
rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or
moist than the sides. This may be done in forming
the sole or floor at first, and the bed would then be of
equal strength in all parts. If it be made up against a
wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a
few inches from the back to the front, less or more, accord-
ing to its breadth. I have sometimes been contented with
two courses as above, instead of three ; and often when
materials were scarce, have made them up slighter, thus t
three four-inch courses of droppings, with one inch of earth
between each, and a two-inch covering at top. Such abed
as this, I have had produce for ten or twelve months toge-
ther ; but very much depends on the state of the materials,

FOBCING MUSHROOMS. 117

and on the care taken in making it up, also on the after
management.

The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those
of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce
(few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm
horses, fed partly on hard, and partly on green food, and
from carriage or snddlc horses, fed entirely on corn and hay;
treated them in the same way in every respect ; and have
found, not OIK'C hut always, those made from the latter most
productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro-
cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun-
try, any time of the year; and if the supply be plentiful, a
bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished
within five or six weeks. In as many more weebs, if in a
stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce
and often sooner; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it
will sometimes be two or three months in producing Mush-
rooms."

It may be necessary to state further, that extremes of heat,
cold, drought and moisture, should be avoided in the culti-
vation of Mushrooms. Ffthe temperature keeps up to 50^ in
the Winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds
may rise to 60 or even 70° without injury. Air also must
be admitted in proportion to the heat, and GO*5 should be
aimed at as a medium temperature. Water, when given a
little at a time, is better than too much at onco, after the
spawn has begun to spread ; and the water lor this purpose
should always be made blood warm. A light covering of
straw may be always used to preserve moisture on the sur-
face ; and if the beds are made in open frames, or otherwise
subject to exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on
beds made in a cellar.

Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms, after having
been kept over hot or wet, it raay be inferred that the spawn
is injured or destroyed ; but if on the contrary a bed that
has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to
be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with
warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the
whole \ if this does not enliven the bed after haying lain a

118 FOBCING MUSHROOMS,

month, take off the earth, and if on examination there is
no appearance of spawn, the whole may be destroyed, butif
on the contrary the bed should contain spawn, it may be
Tenovated by covering it again, especially if any small
tubercles be discernible; but if the heat should have declined,
the spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If
beds be formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or
straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense
heat of the sun.

Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been
introduced into the garden, there' are several eatable kinds.
In Poland and Russia there are above thirty sorts in com-
mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at dif-
ferent stages of their growth, and used in various ways ;
raw, bniled, stewed, roasted, and being hung up, and diied
in their stoves and chimnies, form a part of their Winter
stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collect-
ing Mushrooms for food, and none but the Botanist should
search for any but the sorts we have described.* Physicians
say, "that all the edible species should be thoroughly mas-
ticated before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly
lessens the effects of poisons. When accidents of the sort
happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then
the vegetable acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon
juice, or that of apples ; after which, give ether and anti-
spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infu-
sions of gallnur, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recom,
mended as capable of neutralizing the poisonous principle
of Mushrooms." It is, however, the safest way not to eat
any but the well known kinds.

* In order to ascertain whether what appear to be Mushrooms are of
the true eatable kinds, sprinkle a litttle salt over the inner or spongy
part ; if, in a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ;
but if black, they may be considered a.s genuine AJushroows,

FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND GLASSES,

ALTHOUGH our citizens have an opportunity of procuring
Melons without artificial aid, as their continuance is short,
it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc-
tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass
will apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, how
ever, must be taken that they be kept away from each other
at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole
crops being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus
being raised too near each other. Those who wish to for-
ward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to
raise plants in ; the bed may be formed and the plants
managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for
Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-
glass applied to each hill, Melons may be obtained one
month earlier than the usual time.

Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets^
may gratify the public by pursuing the forwarding, if not the
forcing system. Ridges may be prepared in the following
manner. In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm
border about two feet deep and three wide, and of sufficient
length for as many hand-glasses as are intended to be
employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good
heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same
as a common hot-bed ; to this must be added good rich
mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to
grow iir; as soon as the mould is warm, the seedlings may
be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand-
glasses should be set on, and shaded. After the plants have
taken root and begun to grow, the glasses should be raised
in fine days, and propped up so as to admit fresh air, and as
the warm weather progresses, they may be taken off in the
middle of fine days, so as to harden the plants gradually to
the weather; and by the latter end of May they may be left
to nature.

120

FORCING PEAS IN HOT BEDS.

THE best sorts of Peas to force, are the most dwarfish
kinds, and the seed is better for being two or ihree years old$
as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. Peas run
less to vine by being transplanted, than when they are sown
where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised in a
gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots or
boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempera-
ture must be progressive ; beginning at about 50° for the
nursery bed, and from that to 60° or 65° for fruiting.

When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they
may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen
inches apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should
be from twelve to eighteen inches in depth.

As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be
stirred; and when six inches high, small sticks maybe
applied, so that the tendrils of the Peas iriay easily take
hold ; and they should be moulded at the bottom to enable
them to support themselves.

When they appear in blossom, nip the top off; this
greatly promotes the forming and filling of the pods; they
will require to be regularly watered, arid as the Spring
advances they may be exposed to ihe weather, taking care
lo shelter them in the event of a sudden change.

FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS,

POTATOES may be forced in a great variety of ways.
Those who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of
course provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined
to produce large tops, the Broughton dwarf, Early mule,
Nonpareil and the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of this
description.

Potatoes may be forwarded in growth previous to their
being planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm damp
cellar. Some forward them in pots and boxes, and after-
wards mature them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in tha

FORWARDING RADISHES, &C. 121

at once, in which case the bed should be moulded from
fifteen to twenty inches deep, and the heating materials
should be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or
three months. *

Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this
climate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in
each pot in January, set them in a warm cellar till a bed
can be prepared in February, in this put in the pots. While
the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots,
prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in
the mould with the balls of earth attached to them.

The b.ds should be kept free from frost, and air should
be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes
may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight
hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders,
a quantity of comb-maker's shavings may be deposited in
each hill ; this will greatly promote then- growth.

FORWARDING RADISHES, &c.

RADISHES may be obtained early in the Spring by means
of a moderate hf V •>, ,t The earth in the frame should be a
foot in depth,{ should be admitted every day after

they are up, or. .iciine more to tops than roots. If

they come up too ;k, they should be thinned to one of
two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion
requires, and keep them well covered in cold nights.

For raising early Radishes, without frames, hot-beds may
be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or
pliant rods, which should be covered with mats constantly
at night, and during the day in very cold weather. In
-moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and
on a fine mild day, take them wholly off, and harden them
gradually to the weather.

Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of salads, 01 pot
herbs, may be raised in the same way by sowing the seedia
drills, and keeping the ground clear of weeds.

11

122
FORWARDING RHUBARB.

THOSE who may desire to have this excellent substitute
for fruit at an early season, may procure it without much
trouble. •It is customary with some persons in the Southern
parts of England to keep this plant growing in their
kitchens, so that they may have it for use at any time. They
have strong neat boxes, made for the purpose ; about three
feet deep and two wide, and in length according to the
demand, from four to eight feet; these being kept clean,
have the appearance of flour-bins, and they are sometimes
so contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of a
kitchen dresser. The plants being taken up out of the gar-
den towards Winter, are placed as close at the bottom of
the box as they can be put, with their crowns level : and
some sand being thrown over sufficient to fill up the inter-
stices, and to cover the crowns about half an inch, finishes
the operation. No further trouble is necessary, except to
give a little water, just to keep the roots moist, as they need
no light at all ; and if the roots be planted in the garden
when Spring opens, they will, after having taken root, vege-
tate as strongly as before they were removed.

Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the Autumn, and packed
in sand deposited in a warm cellar, \v '^ '* Uice stalks earlier
than if kept in the garden, and if a hot-beds they

will yield abundantly, and that at a . .'Ay season.

The consumption of this plant in ._o British metropolis
may be judged of by the following extract from a London
Gardener's Magazine. " Rhubarb, which has for some
years past been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing
interest, and more extensively in demand than ever. On
the fifth of May, no less than eight waggon loads, each
weighing at least a ton, with an equal quantity in smaller
proportions, were sold in Covent-garden market alone. One
cultivator, Mr. Myatt, of New Cross, Deptford, had three
waggon loads ; he has, I believe, nearly twenty acres of it
under culture. This plant contains an acid as fine as the
Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ; a square rod of ground will
supply a family ; and it maybe used till midsummer or later.
For fuller explanations, see article Rhubarb.

123

FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL
PLANTS, &c.

FOR the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other
salad herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomatoe- plants, &c. in small
quantities, a hot-bed may be made, early in the Spring, of
good heating materials, on the top of which may be laid
leaf mould, old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about
nine inches. The various kinds of seeds may be sown in
boxes or flower pots, and plunged in the top mould up to
their rims, and by being well attended to, a supply of small
salads, as well as small seedling plants, may be raised with-
out much labour or difficulty. This method is also well
calculated for the raising of Annual flower plants at an
early season.

FORWARDING TOMATOES.

As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late
years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to
observe, that plants raised from seeds sown in hot- beds the
latter end of February, or early in March, as directed in
former pages, will grow to the length of four inches and
upwards, by the first of April, which is one month earlier
than they can with safety be trusted in the open garden. If
a few of these be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted
into flower pots, they may be kept growing therein until
settled warm weather, and then turned out and deposited
in the ground with the balls of earth entire ; or a fruiting
bed may be prepared by the first of April, in the manner
recommended for Bush Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the
plants inserted in the earth at once ; these will produce ripe
fruit a month or six weeks earlier than those cultivated in
the ordinary way.

124 FORCING VEGETABLES.

The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a
small scale, is recommended by a correspondent of a Lon-
don Magazine :—

" Mushrooms in Winter I obtain by a very simple though
not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one
foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of horse droppings, per-
fectly dry ; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the
boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must
be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the
boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together.

" Four such boxes at work, are sufficient for a moderate
demand; and of a dozen, four brought on at a time, and
placed upon the flue of a greenhouse stove, will produce a
fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be
covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly,
watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on
the flue of a greenhouse; a warm stable, cellar, or any
other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan i&
also convenient for affording a plentiful stock of superior
spawn.

" The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; but
for this purpose a sufficient stock of three-year old plants
must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, fow of which are
the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling
family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner's bark, leaf
mould, or any similar mould ; on this, pack the roots as
thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c.
Any place in a forcing house will suit them ; on the flue,
under the stage, or in short, any place where they can
enjoy the necessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus
and Mushrooms, Sea Kale, Buda Kale, Angelica, small
salad, as also other pot herbs, may be raised in the same
manner."

Those who have not the conveniences recommended in
a greenhouse, &c. may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The
glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will
soon promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegeta-
table luxuries at a season when garden products in genera!
are comparatively scarce.

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 125

" It is unnecessary to show of how much value such
processes may be in minor establishments, or in a young
country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the
successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have
treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their
growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I natter
myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these
luxuries of the garden. My directions are founded on the
success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners
in this country. I have also had sufficient experience to
warrant me in this attempt to contribute my mite towards
the attainment of this kind of useful knowledge.

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP.
HOUBLON. Humulus lupulus.

ALTHOUGH the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, as it is
more or less used in every part of our country, it may not
be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that in
proportion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our
citizens will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ;
and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops
are cured, I propose giving directions for their management
throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare
their own. My information is collected chiefly from Lou-
don's Encyclopaedia of Plants.

** The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown
length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving
beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the
reign of Henry the Eighth ; though indigenous both in
Scotland and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries,
owing to the humidity of their autumnal season. Like
other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on dif-
ferent individuals ; the female plants, therefore, are alone
cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and
Surrey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings,
&c. ; the first is the most hardy, differing little from the

11*

126 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOK

Wild or Hedge Hop ; the Goldings is an improved and
highly productive variety, but more subject to blight than
the other.*

The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a
sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as
to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be
well pulverized arid manured previous to planting. In Hop
districts the ground is generally trenched either with a
plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in
rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By
some, five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular
form, which circles are distant five or six feet from each
other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most
healthy of the old stools ; each should have two joints or
buds: from the one which is placed in the ground springs
the root, and from the other the stalk. Some plant the
cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others
they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of
Beans or Cabbage is generally taken the first year. Some-
times no poles are placed at the plants till the second year,
and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third
year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then
from four to six poles from fourteen to sixteen feet in length
are placed to each circle, or one pole to each plant, if culti-
vated in straight rows. The most durable timber for poles
is that of the Spanish Chesnut.

The after culture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil,
and keeping it free from weeds : in guiding the shoots to
the poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose with
bass or withered rushes ; in eradicating any superfluous
shoots which may rise from the root, and in raising a small
heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant.

Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy
capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consistence.

* Besides these are the Farnham, or golden grape, which is cultivated
for an early crop ; and for late picking, the iVi ayfield grape, or ruffler,
is esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary,
lest the varieties get mixed, as they will not ripen or dry equally, and
Consequently cannot be of one uniform colour and quality.

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 127

Each chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed.
Before these are picked, the stalks are detached, arid the
poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood,
two or three poles at a time. The Hops are then picked off
by women and children. After being carefully separated
from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large
clolh hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks.
When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large
sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to
be dried. This is always to be done as soon as possible
after they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable
damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain
long in the green state in which they are picked. In very
warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state,
they will often heat in five or six hours ; for this reason, the
kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from
the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking
season.

The operation of drying Hops is not materially different
from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con-
struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight
to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet,
and the Hops ripe or immature, \\hen the ends of the Hop
stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off
the kiln, and laid 011 a boarded floor till they become quite
cool, when they are put into bags.

The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of
the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole
or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After
tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a
large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the
bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest
on the edges of the hole or trap; and the bag itself being
then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when
a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in
small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity
of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When
the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it
will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop,

128 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP.

and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre-
viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned
above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put
into pockets or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or
heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing
fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when
Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are
put into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to
exclude the air.

The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the
operation of picking. The shoot or bind being stripped off,
such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a
conical pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is
formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from
their tops, and their lower ends spread out.

The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as that of
the Hop ; in a good season an acre will produce 20 cwt. but
from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop.
The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or
scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to
them, and by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of
forming a EIop plantation are considerable ; but once in
bearing, it will continue so for ten or fifteen years before it
requires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to
diseases; when young it is devoured by fleas of different
kinds ; at a more advanced stage, it is attacked by the green
fly, red spider, and ottermoth, the Iarva3 of which prey even
upon the roots. The honey-dew often materially injures
the Hop crop ; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other
blights, injure it at different times towards the latter period
of the growth of the plant."

It appears from an article in the " Genesee Farmer,"
that the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch
of husbandry in the State of New- York. A correspondent
observes, that " as fine samples have been grown in Orange
and Madison counties as in any part of the world. The
Hop is considered somewhat precarious ; but when the
season is good, the profit is very great. The average product
may be stated at 700 Ibs., though it has reached 1600 Ibs.

METHOD OP CULTIVATING THE HOP. 129

to the acre ; and in the latter case the expense amounted
tb sixty dollars. The ordinary, or average price, may be
stated at eighteen cents per pound. The profits on an
ordinary crop, according to these assumed data, would be
about seventy dollars from the acre. It often falls materially
short of this, however, from the want of knowledge and care
in gathering and drying the crop.

" The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh-
bouring towns on the Hudson, this year, (1834) has been
estimated at 2,300 bales, or 500,000 Ibs., which, had not many
of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would
have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand
dollars. But of the 2,300 bales, there was not more than
200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the
denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too
early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was
sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked
in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the
character of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer pup-
chased by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon
form an important article of export, if their character was
raised by care in their culture and drying, and a rigid
inspection."

The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are
considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently
gathered in the Spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus.
The stalk and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk
a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing
wiiich is described by Linna3us in his Flora Suecica. A
decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as
Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A
pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended
with the bad effects of soporifics, which require to be taken
internally.

131

OBSERVATIONS

ON THE

Q1 Hi® WHIB (ft ^ IB IE)

PRETIOUS to forming a flower garden, the ground should
be made mellow and rich, by being well pulverized, ma-
nured, and prepared in every respect as if intended for a
kitchen garden. A flower garden should be protected from
cold cutting winds by close fences, or plantations of shrubs,
forming a close and compact hedge, which should be neatly
trimmed every year. Generally speaking, a flower gar-
den should not be on a large scale, the beds or borders
should in no part of them be broader than the cultivator
can reach, without treading on them : the shape and num-
ber of the beds must be determined by the size of the
ground, and the taste of the person laying out the garden.

Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the
manner in which it is laid out ; a great variety of figures
may be indulged in for the flower beds. Some choose oval
or circular forms, others squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds,
<fec., intersected with winding grass paths and gravel walks.
In the design of an ornamental garden, nature should be
imitated as nearly as practicable, not only in the formation
and regulation of the flower beds, but in the adaptation of
each species to its peculiar element, soil, and situation,
taking into consideration, that the inmates of a garden con-
stituting as they do a mingled groupe, collected from all
the different climates and soils of the vegetable creation,
require each their njost essential aliment, to promote a
luxuriant growth.

132 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 5%OWJgR

Neatness should be the prevailing characteristic of a
flower garden, which should be so situated as to form an
ornamental appendage to the house ; and, where circum-
stances will admit, placed before windows exposed to a
southern or south-eastern aspect. The principle on which
it is laid out, ought to be that of exhibiting a variety of
colour and form, so blended as to produce one beautiful
whole. In a small flower garden, viewed from the windows
of a house, this effect is best produced by beds, or borderi,
formed on the side of each other, and parallel to the win-
dows from whence they are seen, as by that position the
colours show themselves to the best advantage. In a retired
part of the garden, a rustic seat may be formed, over and
around which grape vines, or honeysuckles, and other
sweet and ornamental creepers and climbers, may be trained
on trellises, so as to afford a pleasant rural retreat.

In extensive pleasure grounds a rockery, formed of rough
stone, and rich light soil, may be erected in imitation of a
mountain, on which maybe cultivated various plants natives
of mountainous districts, and such indigenous plants as are
calculated for the situation, also herbaceous plants, pro-
cumbent and trailing, such as Messembry anthem urns,
Climbing Cordydalis, the various species of Silene, or Catch
Fly, Gypsophilu, Lotus, Ricota or Syrian Honesty, Go-
detia, &c. These being interspersed with dwarf plants of
different species, as Mountain Lychnis, Violets, Daisies,
&c., and so arranged as to cover a great proportion of the
rocky surface, must necessarily produce a very pleasing
effect.

Although the greatest display is produced by a general
flower garden, that is, by cultivating such a variety of sorts
in one bed or border, as may nearly insure a constant
blooming ; yet bulbous plants, while ossential to the per-
fection of the flower garden, lose something of their pculiar
beauty when not cultivated by themselves. The extensive
variety of bulbous roots furnishes means for the formation
of a garden, the beauty of which, arising from an intermix-
ture of every variety of form and colour, would well repay
the trouble of cultivation, particularly as by a judicious

OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. 133

selection and management, a succession of bfoom may be
kept up for some length of time. As, however, bulbous
flowers lose their richest tints about the same time that
annuals begin to display their beauty, there can be no
well-founded objection to the latter being transplanted into
the bulbous beds, so that the opening blossoms of the
annuals may fill the place of those just withered, and con-
tinue to supply the flower-beds with all the gaiety and
splendour of the floral kingdom.

The cultivation of Annual Flowers is a delightful employ-
merit, and well adapted to the amusement of a Lady, who,
with the assistance of a labourer to prepare the ground, may
turn a barren waste into a beauteous flower garden with her
own hands. Sowing the seeds, transplanting, watering and
training the plants, tying them to sticks as props, leading
them over trellis work, and gathering their seed, are all
suitable for feminine occupation, and from their affording
motives for exercise in the open air, they contribute greatly
to health, and tranquillity of mind.

But the taste of the florist will be exercised to little pur-
pose, in the selection of Flowers, if strict attention be not
paid to the general state of the garden. If there are lawns
or grass walks, they should be frequently trimmed, and
more frequently mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass
from interfering with the flower beds, and to give the
whole a neat, regular, carpet-like appearance If there are
gravel walks, they should be frequently cleaned, replenished
with fresh gravel, and rolled. Box, and other edgings,
should be kept clear of weeds, and neatly trimmed every
Spring. Decayed plants should be removed, and replaced
with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. Tall flowering
plants must be supported by neat poles or rods ; and all
dead stalks and leaves from decayed flowers must be fre-
quently removed

In the summer season, all kinds of insects must be timely
destroyed, and in the evenings of warm days, the flowers
will require frequent watering.

12

134

INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE or
ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS,

To raise your flowers, various arts combine ;
Study these well, and fancy's flight decline.
If you would have a vivid, vigorous breed,
Of every kind, examine well the seed:
Learn to what ELEMENTS your plants belong,'
What is their constitution, weak or strong ;
Be their physician, careful of their lives,
And see that every species daily thrives ;
These love much AIR, these on much HEAT rely,
These without genial MOISTURE, droop and die.
Supply the wants of each, and they will pay
For all your care through each succeeding day.

WITH a view to render this work more generally interest-
ing, a classification and definition of the various species and
varieties embraced in the annexed Catalogue, is attempted.
Precision, however, in the performance of this task is im-
practicable, as it must be conceded that the vegetable fa-
mily, having been collected from all the varied climates and
soils, will differ as to height, complexion, time of blossoming,
and in many other essential points, when cultivated out of
their natural element.

Some seeds germinate in two or three days after being
deposited in the earth ; other species will not exhibit signs
of vegetation under as many weeks. These and other dis-
tinguishing features arise, in a great measure, from their
having originated in diverse soils and climates. Natives
of cool or temperate climates and moist soils, are generally
tardy in germinating when cultivated in a warm climate and
dry soil, for want of a due share of their most essential
aliment, MOISTURE ; and natives of warm climates and
light soils, require artificial culture in cool seasons, and
unpropitious climates, in order to their being accommo-
dated with their natural and most important aliment, HEAT.
AIR is also a more necessary aliment to some species than
to others, but these three elements collectively, constitute

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 135

the food of plants in general. It may be also observed that
the adaptation of plants to a soil congenial for them, is of
the utmost importance ; as plants cannot thrive well, when
improper food is absorbed by their roots.

Under favorable circumstances, annual flower plants, in
general, will produce their flower buds within two months
from the period of sowing the seed. Some species, soon
after exhibiting their brilliant blossoms, disappear, while
others embellish the borders by their successional bloom for
two or three months. An assortment of seed judiciously
selected, and sown in due season, will afford amusement to
the cultivator the greater part of a summer, and yield seed
for the propagation of the species in succeeding years, if
gathered when ripe, and carefully preserved.

Annual plants will grow from one to four feet in height,
in one uniform soil and situation, but as these are diversified
in almost every garden, no correct conclusion can be drawn ;
an attempt, however, has been made in the annexed cata-
logue, to describe the various species as nearly as possible,
which may serve as a guide to the gardener in planting ;
the most dwarfish being adapted to the front or outer edge
of the borders, and others in regular gradation.

Those species market! thus, § are tender. Those marked
thus, * should be sown in the spot where they are intended
to blossom, as they are apt to droop and die by being trans-
planted. A few are marked thus, f. These though culti-
vated as annuals, from their facilities in blossoming and
ripening their seed the first season, are in reality peren-
nial, as are also some other varieties from warm climates,
usually denominated annuals ; but as such could not be
cultivated at all by those who have no means of protecting
their plants through our severe winters, they may with
great propriety be treated as tender annuals, by sowing the
seed every Spring.

136

A CATALOGUE OF

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS.
Graines de fleures annuelles.

§ Denotes tender. \ Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. HEIGHT

IN FEET

§Ageratum, Mexican, blue, Agerat um Mcxicana Ito2

Alkekengi, or Kite Flower, lilac. Atropa Physaloides 2 to 4

tAlyssum Sweet, white. Alyssum Maritima 1

§ Amaranthus, three-coloured. Amarantkus Tricolor 2 to 3

*Argemone, or Prickly Poppy; yel- Argcmone Mexicana, grand ijlora,

low, cream colour and white. ochrolcnca,etc. 2 £04

Astor, Chinese and German, white, Aster, ChinensiSjVar.alba^ubra,

red, striped, purple, &c. striata, purpurea, etc. 1/02

§ Balsams; three species and nume- Balsamina hortensis, Mastersiana,

erous varieties, scarlet, striped, cornuta,coccinea} striata, purpurea

purple, crimson, white, &c- alba, etc 1 to 2

^Bartonia, the Golden. Bartonia aurea. 2to3

Bladder Ketmia, buff, dark centre. Hibiscus trionum 1 to 2

Blue Bottle great, Centaur ea cyanus, major 3204

Blue Bottle, small. Centaurea cyanus, minor 1 to 2

Blumenbachia, white. Blumenbachia.insignis, under 1

$Bro\vallia, or Amethyst, blue,white. Browallia elata, alba, etc. 1 to 2
$Caealia, scarlet. Cacalia coccinea 1 to 2

Calliopsis; Drummond's Coreopsis. Calliopsis Drummondii 2 to 3

Calandrina Annual, crimson. Calandrina speciosa, etc. Ito2

tCalandrina, rose and purple tinged. Calandrina discolor, etc. 2*03

*Candytuft, white and purple. Jberisalba, purpurea, etc. 1

*Catch Fly, purple and red. SUenc purpurea , muscipula,etc.2to3

*Catch Fly, dwarf pink, spotted, &c. Silene Armena, picta, etc. I to 2
* Caterpillars, Hedge Hogs and Mcdicago circinnatat intertexta,

Snails, curious. scutcllata, etc 1 to 2

Centaurea, or pink sultan. Centaurea Americana 2 to 3

China Pink, of every shade. Dianthus,Chinensis,annuus l£02

§Cleome, rose coloured, white, &c. Cleomc rosea, spinoca, etc. 2£03
Chrysanthemum, white, yellow Chrysanthemum, coronarium,

and three-coloured. alba, lutca, tricolor, etc. 2 to 3

Clarkia, rose, purple, white, &c. Clarkia elegans, pulchella,etc. Ito2
§Clintonia, elegant blue. Clintonia elegans 1 <0 2

§ Cockscomb, crimson and yellow, Celocia cristata, lutea 2 to 3

$Collinsia, lilac, white, two-coloured Collinsia hetropJdlla,, bicolor2to 3;
Commelina, blue-flowering. Cammelina ccclestis, I

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 137

$ Denotes tender, t Perennial. * Difficult to transplant.' HEIGHT

IN FEET

* Convolvulus, dwarf variegated &c. Convolvulus minor, trirolor 1 to2
Coreopsis, Golden, dark centre. Calliopsis tinctoria. 3 to 4

§ Cotton Plant, cream. Gossypium lierbaceum 3 to 4

Crotalaria, purple, yellow and white Crotalaria verrncosa, etc. 1 to 2

Cuphea Mexican, scarlet, variegated C upfaa lanceolata, etc. ito 2

tDahlia, Mexican, various. #«M<z sup-rftua 3 to Q

Devil in the Bush, or Love in a Mist, Nigella damascene Hispanica,

blue, yellow, pirple, white, &c. Orientalis, saliva, etc. 1 to 2
Dwarf Love in a Mist, various Nigella nana I

tDew Plant, crimson. Mesembryanthemum glabrum I to 2

tDidiscus azure blue. Didiscus caruleus. 2 to 3

$Egg Plant, white, for ornament. Solatium mdongena 1 to2

tEschsch Itzia or Chryseis, yellow, Eschscholtzia.crocca, cristate,

red and orange. Calif ornica, etc. 1

Eternal Flower, yellow, purple Xeranthemum lucidum, var, lutea,

and white, bracteatum, alba. 2 to 3

Euphorbia, variegated. Euphorbia va>iegata. 2 to 3

^Evening Primrose, dwarf annual, Oenolhera linearis, Drummondii,

white, yellow, red, &c. letraplera, micrantha, ttc. 1 to 2

*Eveniug Primrose, large yellow. Otno/hera grandijlora 2 /o .3

'Evening Primrose, willow leaved, Ocnothera salcifMa 3 to 4

Feather Grass. Stipa pinnata, atenacea 1 <o2

*Flos Adonis, or Pheasant Eye,red. Adonis minata 1 to 2

tFrancoa, pink and purple. Fran oa appcnduulata Ito 2

Garidella, Nigella like. Gariddla nigellastrum Ifo2

Gilia, blue, pink, variegated, &c. Gilia capitata, tricolor, etc. 2

$ Globe Amaranthus, crimson.white. Gomphrena globosa I to 2

Grove Love, blue. Nemophila insignis 1

tGodetia, the Twiggy, purple. Godctia viminea 3 to 4

Godetia the Ruddy, annual. Godetia rubricunda 2 to 3

Godetia , dwarf, purple and spotted. Godctia lepida,Lyndleyana etc. 1 to 2

*Gypsophila. pink and white. Gypsophila elfgans, viscosa. 1 to2

Hawkweed, yellow and red Crepisbarbata, rubra. 1 to 2

^Hibiscus, yellow, with redishcentre Hibiscus Africanus 2 to 3

*Horned Poppy, yellow and scarlet. Glauccum luteum, ph&niceum 2 to3

tHunnemania, brilliant yellow. Hunnemania famarix folia 3 to 4

Hypecoum, three species, yellow. Hypecoum, procumbens, etc. Ito2

^Ice Plant, white. Mesembryanthemum, chrystalinurn 1

tJacobea, purple, spotted, &c. Seneciopurpnrea,elegansetc. Ito2

Job's Tears, gray. Coix lachryma, Jobi 2 to 3

Larkspur, dwarf Rocket, white, blue, Delphinium ajacis. alba

purple, pink and other colours. cosru'ea, purpureo, etc. Ito 2

Larkspur, branching, similar variety Delphinium consoUda, ttc. 2to3
Lavatera, red, purple and white. Lavatera, trimestris. alba} etc. 4 to 6

12*

138 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS.

§ Denotes' tender, t Pertnnial. * Difficult to transplant. HEIGHT

IN FEET

Love lies bleeding, crimson. Amaranthus melancholicus 2 to 3

Lunaria, purple. Lunaria purpurea 1 to 2

* Lupins, dwarf annual,yellow, pur- Lupinus nanus, densi-

pie, rose, two coloured, &c. florus, li-co!or, etc. 1 to 2

Maleshcrbia, blue. Maleslierbia coronata 2 to 3

*Malope, tall scarlet M alope grandiflora 3to4

*Malope, dwarf crimson, rose. Malope trifida, malacoides I to 2

Marigold, African, yellow, orange. Tagetes erecta 3 to 4

Marigold, French, variegated. Tagetes patula 2/03

Marigold, sweet, yellow striped Calendula offidnalin 1 to 2

§Marigold, Fig. yellow Mesembryanthcmum, annuus 1

Martynia, or. Cuckold's Horn. Marty nia probosddea 2 to 3

tMarvd of Peru, or Four O'Clocks, Mirabilis jalapa^ latea, rubra,

white yellow, red, striped, scented striata, longiflora,etc. 2 to 3
tMignonette, sweet scented. Reseda odorata under 1

tMonkey Flower, yellow, scarlet, Mimulus moschaius, cardinalis,

rose, &c. variegated, rivularius,roseus,etc. I to 2

§Nierembergia. several varieties of Nierembergia intermedia, violacea,

various colours. phctni<:ia,etc. 2to$

Nolana in varieties, blue. Nolana paradoxia,prtstrata,etcl to 2

*Oats, animated. Avena sensitiva 2fo3

tPansey or Heart's Ease, purple, Viola, tri-color, grandiflora,
blue, yellow, and numerous shades, atro purpurea, ccerulea,

variegated. lutea, etc. wider 1

Pentaptes, scarlet. Pentaptes phanicia 2

Phlox, annual, rosy red. Phlox Drummondii 1 to 2

Pimpernel, blue and scarlet. Anagallis indica, arvensis 1

* Poppy, large white and scarlet. Papaver somniferum , coccinea 3 to 4
*Poppy dwarf, scarlet white, yel- Papaver rhaas, nudicale Persi-

low, striped, Persian red, &c. cum,rubra, striata, etc. 1 to 2

Prince's Feather, crimson. Amaranthus hypocondriacus 2 to 3

Rocket Candytuft white. Iberis coronaria 1 to 2

Rose Campion, annual, dwarf red, Agrostemma, cceli rosea, githago,

purple, white, striped, &,c. laeta,etc. 1
Salpiglossis, variegated, purple,&c- Satpiglostis, atropvpurea 2 to 3

Saphonariaor Silene, rose Saphonaria vaccaria 2lo3

tSchizanthus in variety, orange, Sshizanthu* retusus, pinnatus,

wing-leaved, &c. oblusi folia, etc. , \ to 2

Scabious, or Morning Bride, purple Scabiosa atro purpurea 2 to 3

§ Sensitive Plant, red Mimosa sensitirn under I

Shortia, yellow. Short ia California 1 to 2'

Stock Gilly, Virginian, lilac. Malccmiamaritima 1

Strawberry Spinach, red fruit. BUtum capitatum

Strephtanthus, rose coloured. Slrephtanthus obtusifolius

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 1 39

Denotes tender, f Perennial, * Diffl«olt t« transplant HEIGHT

Sunflower, yellow. Helianihus annuus 6 to

Sunflower dwarf, yellow. Hilianthus minor, nanus 2 to 3

Sun Rose, spotted. Helianthemumguttatum 1 to 2

*5weet Balm, blue. Melissa odoratum 1*»2

*Sweet Basil, blush, lilac, Ocymum basiliacum 1 to<%

Sweet Sultau, white, yellow, purple Centaurea moschata, etc. 1 to %
*Ten Week Stock, scarlet, purple, Mzthiola annua nar.

white, &c» graca tenella etc* 1 /o«

^Tobacco in varieties, scarlet, yellow Nicotiana, tabacum rustica 3 to 4

Touch me not, yellow. Noli mi tangere 1

Trefoil, crimson and scented. Trifolium incarnatum, etc. 3 to 4

* Venus' Looking Glass, lilac. C ampanula tpeculum I<o2

Vesicaria in varieties, yellow. VesicariagrandiJloTa, etc 2 to 3
t Verbena in varieties, scarlet, rose, Verbena aubletia.bonariensif,

blue, lilac, pink, &c. Drummondii pulchella,ctr. 1 to 2
Zinnia, scarlet, yellow, violet Zinnia coccinea,latta,grandifloTa

coloured, red, &c. rubra, etc. '2 to 3

The following are climbing and trailing plants, which
should be planted in situations, where they can be sup-
ported by poles, twine, or trellises.

The tallest growing vines and creepers are best adapted
to the covering of arbours, to create shade, or conceal any
unsightly object ; the procumbent trailing and low climbing
plants, such a« the Nasturtium, Loasa, Petunia, Sweet
Pea, <fcc. may be trained on trellis work of an ornamental
form, as that of a fan, balloon, or pyramid, which should
be on a scale corresponding to the situation and extent of
the garden.

Balloon Vine, or Love in a Puff CardiospermumhalicacabumoTerlO

§ Balsam. Apple and Pear Momordica balsamina oxer 10

Bean Hyacinth, white and purple Dolichos alba, purpurea over 10

§ Bean, scarlet flowering Phaseolus multiflorus over 10

Bean, Castor Oil or Palma christi. Ricinus Communis 5 to 6

§ Cypress Vine, scarlet and white Jpomosa coccinea, alba, orer 1Q

Gourd, Mock Orange, in varieties Cucurblta bicolor, aurantia orer 10

Gourd the Bottle, in varieties. Cucurbita lagenaria, elarata 10

$ Loasa orChillian Nettle, orange Loasa lateritia, aurantiacaetc3 to 6
{Morning Glory, scarlet striped,&c. Ipomcca toccinea, striata,etc *ter 10

140 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS.

Morning Glory, of the Convolvulus Convolvulus major, purpurea,
tribe, purple, striped, yellow, ccerulea, striata, lutea, incarnata,
pink, white, &c, alba etc over 10

Nasturtium, orange and crimson Trop&clum atrosanguincum

variegated. nana etc 4 to 6

^Thuubergia, wing-leaved, purple Thunbergia alata 4 to 6

tPetunia, purple, white rose 8fc. Petunia nyclaginifiora , etc. 2 to 3
Sweet Peas, various complexions, Lathyrus odoratus, var. alba, pur-
white, purple, red, rose, striped &c. purea, ro'sea, striata, etc, 3 to 4

As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit of
an extensive assortment of flowers, a select list may be
made from the above catalogue to suit the taste of such as
may be so situated ; and amateurs, who cultivate on a larger
scale, can obtain such additional sorts as may be desired at
the different seed stores, under their various names.

Previous to providing annual flower seeds, th£ cultivator
should lay out a plan of his garden, and in making
allotments of ground for any particular purpose, provision
should be made for a select assortment of such bulbous,
tuberous, and perennial plant?, as may be deemed most
worthy of attention, not forgetting to leave room for some
of the choicest varieties of the Dahlia, the qualities of which
will be described hereafter.

Another consideration is, to have suitable implements
ready, so that the work may be performed in a skilful
manner, and at the proper season. A spade, rake, hoe,
trowel, drilling machine, and pruning knife, maybe deemed
essentials ; and in order to have the beds laid out, with the
eilges straight and even, a garden line should be in rea-
diness. If labels should be required, they may be made of
shingles, which being split into strips of about an inch wide,
and sharpened at one end, will serve for marking distinct
kinds, either in pots, or on the borders. In order to have
the names or numbers written in legible characters, the
labels should be painted on the smooth side with white lead,
and then marked with black lead pencil before the paint
gets dry ; inscriptions made in this way, will be as durable
as the label itself.

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 141

The next, and perhaps the most important consideration,
is, to have the ground in good condition to receive the seed.
In order to obtain this desirable object, let some good rich
compost, or very old manure, be provided and well mixed
with the soil ; dig it a full spit deep, pulverizing every
particle. It would be an advantage if the ground could be
dug to a great depth at the clearing up of Winter, and then
again at the period of sowing seed in the SPRING :

"I corne, I come — ye have called me long —
I come o'er the mountains with light and song !
Ye may trace my steps o'er the wakening earth,
By the winds which tell of the Violet's birth,
By the Primrose-stars in the shadowy grass,
By the green leaves opening as I pass."

A mellow loam, which is a medium earth between the
extremes of clay and sand, enriched with pulverized manure
or compost, is adapted to the generality of flowering
plants ; ground however of a boggy nature, composed of
black earth, decayed leaves, &c., and in a low situation,
is essential to the luxuriant growth of amphibious plants,
as Water Lilies, Iris, Lobelia, and the like, but as the
cultivator has not always a choice, he may select such
plants only, as are most congenial to his peculiar soil and
situation.

Previous to digging flower beds or borders, care must be
taken that they be so arranged as to lay rather highest in
the middle; this is essential to the draining off a redun-
dancy of water, as well as to the exhibition of plants to the
greatest possible advantage.

All kinds of annual flower seeds may be sown in the
month of April and May, op borders or beds of pulverized
earth ; the beds should be levelled, and the seeds sown
either in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills from
an eighth to half an inch deep, according to the size or
nature of the seed. Lupins, Peas, <fcc., should be planted
about half an inch deep. Those who would have their plants
to flower early, should sow the hardy kinds the last week in
March, or early in April. Those varieties marked thus |,
and thus § may be sown in boxes, or pots of light earth, at
the same time. These, if exposed to the sun every day, and

142 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS.

sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded in growth and be
fit to transplant early in June, Those marked *, may be
also sown in small pots, and as these plants do not bear
transplanting, they should be turned out ofthe pots with the
balls of earth entire, and placed in the ground where they
are intended to flower ; or, if the seed be sown in a bed with
other kinds, they should be carefully transplanted with a
trowel, without disturbing their roots.

The most eligible way to obtain early flowers is to prepare
a slight hot bed for the tender kinds, (see calendar for Janu-
ary) and either to plunge the pots therein up to their brims,
or to sow the seed in the earth in shallow drills, riot more
than a quarter of an inch deep. It may be necessary to state
that although in favourable seasons, flower seed in general
will come up in from one to three weeks after it is sown,
the seed of Cypress vine will not grow until settled warm
weather, unless in a hot bed ; it should then be partially
scalded in water, previous to sowing it.

If some ofthe hardy annuals be sown in September, they
will grow large enough to survive the Winter, by a slight
covering of straw or litter ; and if plants thus raised be
transplanted early in the Spring, they will produce very
early flowers. The following are some of the hardiest :
Alyssum, sweet Evening Primrose

Coreopsis, in varieties Larkspur, in varieties

China aster, in varieties Pansey, or Heart's ease

Catch fly Poppy, in varieties

C hrysanthemum, in varieties Rocket Larkspur.

To prevent disappointment, I would recommend that great
care be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds
as possible. It cannot be denied but young plants are apt
to get smothered, and sometimes pulled up with weeds.
To obviate this, I would suggest that the seeds be sown in
shallow drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be
kept ofthe contents of each drill in a book ; also of all seeds
that are sown at different times, and by being particular in
the dates, you may always know when to expect your plants
to come up. Those persons who may be totally unac-
quainted with plants, will, by this means, be enabled to

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS, US

identify each particular kind, and thus become familiarly
acquainted with them.* In order that this may be rendered
plain to my readers, I adopt the following plan of entry of
six kinds sown in pots, and six in the open ground :

April 20, sowed flower seeds in pots.

Pot marked A, or 1, Ainaranthus tricolor.

B, or 2 Balsamines1

C, or 3, Cockscomb.

D, or 4, Egg pi int.

E, or 5, Ice plant.

F, or 6, Mignonette.

These pots may be either marked with letters, or figures
on the outside, to answer with the book, or notches may be
cut in wood, or other labels affixed to the pots, and entered
accordingly.
April 30, sowed flower seeds in drills, as under

No; 1, Bladder Ketmia

2, Coreopsis Tinctoria.

3, Yellow eternal flower.

4, Globe amarauthus.

5, Princes' feather.

6, Larkspur, branching.

If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1000, there
can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked accord-

* Lest the reader should contend that the author is hereby shifting
his own duty and responsibility on the cultivator, it may be necessary to
observe that a definition of all the peculiar qualities, forms, attitudes
and habits of growth, of the numerous species and varieties of plants,
embraced in an extensive catalogue, with minute directions for the
most appropriate culture of each, would alone occupy more space
than is allotted for this treatise, and that to expatiate on all the various
features of the floral kingdom, i*.a task which no author has ever
attempted; nor can an »' librar v be found containing such a desideratum.'
The cultivator of a small garden may, however, by means of a memo-
randum book, describe the peculiarities of such plants os come under
his special care, as upright, procumbent, trailing, climbing, bushy,
slender stalked, herbaceous, shrubby, &c., and thus learn how to
rultivate and arrange the same, or similar plants, advantageously in
succeeding years: and it must be admitted that a few flowers selected,
so as to harmonize in their colours and habits of growth, cultivated
with precision, as respects soil and situation congenial to them, and
trained and pruned into regular and compact shapes, will yield more
pleasure and amusement,than three times the number taken promiscuous-
ly and cultivated under one uniform treatment, as is the general, though
not most judicious practice.

144 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS.

ing to the entry in the book ; or if No. 1 be noted, plain
sticks will answer afterwards, if one be stuck at each end
of every row. In this case it would be well to leave a space
every ten or twenty rows, and to note the number of the
rows ; by this means, they can be more easily traced.

Some species of dwarf Annuals, such as the sweet
Alyssum, Candytuft, Clarkia Pulchella, Mignonette, Pim-
pernell, and such others as grow not over a foot in height,
may be cultivated in small beds, either separate or two or
three kinds mixed together. Clarkia pulchella suits very
well with Mignonette, as it will thrive in moderately poor
soil, which is the best adapted for that plant when fragrance
is an object. The reason that some Mignonette has
scarcely any scent, is, because the soil in which it is culti-
vated is too rich ; and this leads me to remark farther, that
what som.9 call Tree Mignonette, and admire on account of
its fragrance, is the same variety as the ordinary kind,
cultivated as a perennial plant. It may be propagated by
cuttings, and trained so as to form a tree ; which being
transplanted into poor ground, will yield more fragranee
than when grown as an annual in a rich compost or soil.

The best way to manage the mixed species, is to level
down a narrow border of rather poor soil, and sow it all
over with Mignonette, then with Clarkia pulchella ; when
the plants are up, both kinds should be thinned out equally,
so as to leave the plants from one to two inches apart all
over the bed ; these when they come into blossom will form
a rich mass, and have a very pretty effect, the bushiness of
the Mignonette hiding the naked stalks of the Clarkia.
The White Alyssum and Purple Candytuft, form a pleasing
contrast when mixed in equal proportions, and also the
Dwarf Scarlet and blue Pimpernell.

The new species of Dwarf annual Phlox, Phlox Drum-
mondii, are described in a London Magazine as a splendid
sight when cultivated in patches. "Every flower, though of
the deepest carmine, has its petals of a pale blush colour on
the under side, and every petal though of the palest pink,
has a dark carmine spot at its base. Thus the variety of

ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 145

•Colours displayed in a bed of these flowers, almost exceeds
description, and when they are seen under a bright sun,
and agitated by a gentle breeze, the effect is extraordinarily
brilliant."

When seeds are intended to be sown in patches, which
is often done for want of an unoccupied border, the best
way to perform this business is, after having pulverized
the soil, to impress circular drills in the surface with the
rim of a flower pot, which may be large or small, according
to fancy. By sowing seeds in such circular drills, the plants
can be more easily traced than when scattered promiscuously
over the ground, and the weeds can be destroyed with less
risk and trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the cata-
logue* may remain as sown, or if parted, they should be
removed with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, in small
tufts, and this business, as well as transplanting in general,
should be always done immediately preceding, or after rain,
and in cloudy weather.

Herbaceous plants in general will not flower well, if grown
in clusters ; they should, therefore, be thinned or trans-
planted into the regular beds, at all favourable opportuni-
ties, after they get about an inch in length ; and as there is
always a risk of some plants not taking root, it is safest to
plant a few of each sort every time, taking care to diversify
the colours, and also to leave a few plants in the seed beds,
for the purpose of substituting in the room of such plants
whose period of flowering may be over ; as is the case gene-
rally with early Perennial plants and bulbs, at about th«
season the last of the Annuals are fit to remove.

The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, or a
neat dibble made for the purpose.

13

146
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS

TO THE CATALOGUE OP

BIENNIAL S? PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS,

The remarks preceding our Catalogue of Annuals, will
With few exceptions, apply to that of Biennials and Peren-
nials ; and it may be observed further, that the circulation of
the sap in roots and stalks of plants, is influenced by like
causes, and subject to the same vicissitudes as the germin-
ation of seed, which principle is exemplified by some plants
of various species putting forth their leaves and flowers at a
later period than others in the same location, as if waiting
for nature to replenish the earth with food adapted to their
respective requirements ; which by the gradual changes
from cool to temperate, and from that to warm weather,
is effected to that degree as to enable all the various species
of plants, collected from every climate and soil under the
Sun, to reward the industrious cultivator, by a gradual exhi-
bition of their fascinating blossoms, and a distribution of their
odoriferous sweets, throughout the three propitious seasons
of the year, i.e. Spring, Summer and Autumn.

In designating Biennials from the Perennials, I have only
marked such as are apt to die after once blossoming, and
which can only be renewed from seed. Some of those spe-
cies, frequently classed with Biennials, as Aquilcgia or
Columbines, Diantkus, &c. are in reality Perennial, and
may be easily perpetuated from year to year, by suckers,
layers, or any of the ordinary methods of propagation ; and
here I would observe, that frequent renewal of the roots of
Perennials, is absolutely necessary to their prosperity or very
existence ; and also that many species, are by nature best
adapted for propagation at the footstalks, from their yielding
little or no seed at the top of the plant. This is particularly
the case with choice double-flowering plants, the roots of
which, in many cases, constitute the seed ; these conse'
quently must be perpetuated by root offsets, cuttings, &c.

BIENNIAL AND JPERENNIAL FLOWEPS. 147

The annexed Catalogue embraces a great proportion 'of
the most desirable of what are termed fibrous-rooted herba-
ceous plants ; the seed or roots of which mny be obtained at
Seed Stores and Nurseries, The estimated height applies
to plants of a year's growth ; some will arrive to more than
three times that height when cultivated in a greenhouse, and
even in open ground culture the same plants will vary con-
siderably, according to the soil or situation in which they
are grown ; the specified height however, although una-
voidably imperfect, may serve as a guide to the gardener in
arranging his flower beds. Those marked thus,f being ten-
der, and half hardy will need protection in the Winter: those
marked thus, || are Biennial : those marked thus, * yield
little or no seed. There are also many other species of which
the seed is unattainable, from its being suffered to scatter by
the wind, and in some cases, from the climate being unfavour-
able to its ripening ; these, as will be shown hereafter, may
be perpetuated by other methods.

A CATALOGUE OF

BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS.

Graines de fleurs bisannuettes et vivaces.

t Denotes tender. || Biennial. * Seed unattainable. HEIGHT

IN FEET

Adonis, Spring-flowering, yellow Adonis vernalis 2 to 3

Alpine Columbine, purple Aquilegia alpina 1 to 2

Alyssum, yellow Alyssum saxatile 1

Asclepias, orange, purple, &c. Asclepias incamata, etc. 2 to 3

Asiatic Globe flower, yellow Trollius Asiaticus 3 to 4

tAuricula, variegated Primula auricula under 1

tBalm of Gilead, fragrant Dracocephalum canariense 1

Bee Larkspur, blue and brown Delphinium datum 4 to 6
Bergamot, crimson, blue Monarda Kalmiana, didyma 2 to 3

*tCanary Aster, purple Cineraria amelloides 1

iCalceolaria, various colours Calceolaria variabilis 2 to 3

Campanula Peren., blue, white, &c. Campanula persicafoHa, etc. 2 to 3

{(Canterbury Bells, blue, white Campanula medium 2 to 3

tCaper tree, green Euphorbia lathyrus 2 to 3

Cardinal flower, scarlet Lobelia cardinalis 3 to 4

148 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS.

t Denotes tender. || Biennial. * SeeJ unattainable, HKIGHT

IN FEET

Cassia Maryland, yellow Cassia Marylandica 3 to 4

t Carnation Pink, various colours Dianthus caryophyllus 1 to 2

*tCelcia, red & yellow, variegated Cclcia orie.ntalis 1 to 2

Chinese Imperial Pink, various Dianthus Chwensis 1 to 2

t Chinese Primrose, lilac, white Primula Chine nsis under 1

Clove Imperial Pink, crimson Dianthus hortensis I to 2

tColuteayscarlet Sutherlandiafrutescens 2 to 3

*Coreopsis, Perennial, in varieties, Calliopsisgrandiflora, lanceola-

yellow turn, auriculata, etc. 2 to 3

*tCoronilla, yellow Coronilla glauca 2 to 3

*Coronet, or doubleLychnis,scarlet Lychnis coronata 2 to 3

|| Clary, purple topped Salvia sclara I to 2

Columbine, various colours Aquilegia vulgaris 1 to 2

-*t Daisy Garden, various colours Bcllis,percnnis,hortensis,under 1

Dragon's head, bluish pink JJracocephalum Firginianum 3 to A

Dragon's head, purple and striped Dracoccphalum argumense, etc. 1 to, 2

European Globe Flower, yellow Trollius Europceus 2 to 3

H Evening Primrose, yellow (Enotheralicnnis 3 to 4

Eupatorium, blue, white Eupatorium cerulea, etc. 2 to 3

IJ'Foxglove, purple, white Digitalis purpurea, alba 3 to, 4

Fraxinella, red, white Dictamnus rulra, alia 1 to 2

Gentian, purple, yellow, white Gentiana purpurea, lutea, etc. 1

Gentian, porcelain flowered Gen iana adscendens 2 to 3

tGeranium, various colours Pelargonium zonalc 2 to, 3

Globe Thistle, purple Echinops spharoccphalus 2 to 3

tHepatica, blue, pink Anemone hepatica under 1

Hibiscus, pink, while, purple Hibiscus palustris,spcciosus,etc 3 to 4

Hollyhock Antwerp, China and Althea flora Chinensis,

English, of various colours Anglica, etc. 4 to 5

g Honesty, or Satin flower, blush Lunaria biennis 2 to 3

tlndian Shot, yellow, scarlet Canna Jndica, lutea, coccmea 2

Ivy -leaved Toad Flax, pink Lunaria. cymbalaria 1 to 2

Jacob's Ladder, blue Polcmonium ceruleum 1 to 2

tJcrusalem Cherry, red fruit Solanum pseudo, capsicum 2 to 3

Larkspur, Perennial, purple, pink, Delphinium grandifloruHa.

white, &c. perenn s 2 to, 3

*Liatris, long spiked, purple Liatris spicata . elegans, etc. 3 to 4

*Lily of the Valley, white Convalleriamajalis 1

iLupin, Perennial, blue, white, Lupinus perennis, mutabilis,

changeable, &c. variabilis, etc. 2 to 3

Lychnidea, or American Phlox, Phlox paniculata accuminata

lilac, purple, red, white, &c. pyramidalis odorata, etc. 3 to 4

*Lychnidea, early, pink, &c. Phlox subulate, stolonfcra etc. 1 fa 2.

BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS.

f Denotet tender. || Biennial. * Seed unattainable. HEIGHT

IN FEET

"Lychnis Mountain, variegated Lychnis Alpina 1 to 2

Lychnis Scarlet Lychnis Chalcedonica 3 to 4

London Pride, variegated Dianthus dclloides

tMesembryanthemum, variegated, Mesembryanthemum acinaci-

yellow , white, purple, &c. formt, spectabUe, tricolor, etc, 1 to 2

tMexican Sage, scarlet Salria- Splendens 2 to 3

Monkshood, white, blue, &c. Aconitum album, versi'olorftc. 4 to 6

Monkey flower, yellow, purple spotsMimulus ringens, luteus, etc. 1 to 2
tOleander, pink, white Nerium, Oleander 2 to 3

*Pardanthus, Chinese, orange Pardanthus, Chinen&is
Pentstemon, purple Pentstemon, campanulata 2 to 3

Perennial Flax, purple Linum, pcrennis 2 to 3

tPeriwinkle, Madagascar, rose,white Vinca rosea, alba 1(02

Pink, Pheasant-eyed, variegated Dianth'S plumarius under
tPolyanthus, variable and splendid Primula polyanthus under
Poppy, Perennial, red, yellow Papaver orientate, bracteata 2 to 3
Potentilla, rose, puce, yellow Polenlilla formosa, splendens 1 to 2

t|| Pyramidal Bell flower, blue Campanula pyromidalis 3 to 4

*Q,ueen of the Meadows,white, roseSpircea ulmaria, lobata, etc. 3 to 4
*Ragged Robin, or Red Lichnis ^^rosttmmafos cucula 1 to 2

Rocket Garden, purple H^peris matrvnalis 2 to 3

f|Rose Campion, or Mullen Pink, Agroslemma coronarea,

rose, white, &c. rosea. alba, etc. 2 to 3

Rudbeckia, yellow, purple Rudbeckia, lulea purpurea 3 to 4

Saphonaria, rose blush Saphonaria qfficinalis, etc. » 1 to 2

*Saxifrage, rose, white, purple Saxifraga umbrosa,crassifoliaj.
||Snapdragon,white, red, variega.ied,^ntirrhinum bicolor, versicolor

in several splendid varieties coccinea, spartium, etc. 1 to 2

Sophora, white, blue, &c. • Sophora alba, autralis 2 to 3

t||Stock Gilliflower, numerous vane-Mathiolairtcanuscoccinea^alba,

ties, scarlet,white, purple, striped purpurea, striata, etc. 1 to 2

*Sunflower, yellow Heliunthus ptrennis.altisshnusS to 4

II Sweet Scabious, purple, brown Scabiosa alro purpurea, etc. Q to 3
Sweet William, various colours Dianthus barbatus 1 to 2

'Thrift, pink and red Stalice vnfgaris, speciosat under 1

Valerian, Garden, red, white Valeriana rubra, alba 2 to 3

Valerian, Sweet-scented, blue Polemonium ceruka 3 to 4

Veronica, variegated, blue Veronica variegata, cerulea 2 to 3

•Violet, Fragrant, white, blue, &c. Viola otiorata. alba, cerulea, under 1
t|| Wallflower, bloody, yellow Cheiranthus cheiri \ (0 2

*t Wallflower, double perennial Cheiranthus per ennis 1 to 2

tHWall-leavexl ; Stock Gilliflower Cheiranthus glaber 1 to 2

*Windflower, various colours Anemone coronaria 1 to 2

13*

150 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS*.

t Denotes tender. || Biennial. * Seed unattainable. HEIGHT

IN FEET

Yucca, or Adam's Needle, white Yucca strict a, gloriosa, etc. 3 to 4
CLIMBING PLANTS.

For other lists of Climbing Plants, see Catalogue of Flowering and
Ornamental Shrubs, also the Catalogue of Annuals.

Calampelis, orange Eccremocarpus scabra over 6

tClimbing Cobea, dark purple Cobea scandens over 20

Everlasting Peas, pink, Lathyrus lalifolius, roseat over 10

I) French Honeysuckle, white, red Hedysarum coronarium, etc. over 6

tPassion Flower, various colours Passiflora incarnata, etc. over 20

The reader is here reminded that our catalogue of
Annual flower seeds, contains a few varieties of Perennials,
which were there introduced because of their aptness to
blossom in the first season from the sowing of seeds ; these
with those marked | in the last catalogue, may be sown
and treated in the manner recommended for the tender
Annuals. Those intended to be cultivated as greenhouse
plants, should be taken up before the approach of cold
weather, transplanted into flower pots, and sheltered either
in a garden frame, greenhouse, or light room. Those
plants with tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, Marvel of Peru,
and also some others of the Bean and Pea tribe, may be
cut down late in the Autumn ; the roots may be then taken
up and preserved in the same manner as those of other
tuberous and bulbous-rooted plants, of which I shnll treat
hereafter.

Hardy Biennial and Perennial flower seeds may be sown
in the month of April, in shallow drills. If this business be
performed in the manner recommended for Annuals, they
can be easily distinguished from each other ; and as these
plants do not flower the first year, they may be thinned out,
or removed from the seed beds as soon as they are well
rooted, and planted either into different parts of the flower
beds, or in a nursery bed. Ifthe latter plan be adopted,

BIENNIAL A3JD PERENNIAL FLOWERS. l§f

they should be planted in rows a foot or more apart, and
kept free from weeds by means of a small hoe, which will
greatly promote their growth, and prepare them for trans-
planting into the regular and permanent blossoming beds,
either in the Autumn or early in the ensuing Spring.

It may be here observed that Biennials seldom servive the
second Winter to flower in perfection, unless they are renewed
by cuttings of top shoots, young flower stalks, or casual offsets,
layers, &c. It will be unnecessary to take this trouble,
unless it be with any extraordinary double-flowering plants.
Some of the Perennials may be increased by root offsets
detached from the old plants, and planted in Spring or
Autumn ; others by bottom suckers and slips of top shoots,
layers, pipings of young shoots, <fcc. Pinks, Sweet Williams
Pansies and double Violets, also Periwinkle, or running
Myrtle, and many other similar plants, may be increased
by simply laying their branches an inch or two under the
surface in July and August.. After roots have formed,
which may be expected in six or eight weeks, each tuft or
plant may be transplanted into the borders.

Many sorts of Biennial and Perennial flower seeds may
be sown in September, or as soon as ripe ; and if the
plants get strong Lefore the setting in of Winter, some of
them will flower the Summer next ensuing. The following
are amongst the hardiest :

Adonis, Spring -flowering. Lychnis, in varieties

Alpine Columbine. Larkspur, perennial.

Alyssmn. yellow. Rose Campion, in varieties.

Bee, larkspur. Rocket in varieties.

Columbine, in varieties. Scabious, in varieties

Evening Primrose. Valerian, Garden.

Fox-glove, in varieties. Veronica.

Fraxinella. Everlasting Peas. ? ,. , .

Hollyhock, in varieties. Virgin's Bower. $cl1

It may be necessary here to remind the reader of those
species of beautiful double-flowering Perennial herba-
ceous plants, which do not produce seed ; some of these
are included in our Catalogue, they may be obtained at the
nurseries, and should be introduced into the regular flower

152 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS.

beds, either in Autumn or early in the Spring ; the mod* of
increasing such, is by layers, cuttings, offsets, &c. detach-
ed from the old plants.

As the earth within the flower beds will need to be
fresh dug and replenished with good compost or manure,
(once in two or three years, it may he necessary to take up
all tha Perennial plants at such times. Such roots as may
be overgrown, should be deprived of their surplus offsets,
and may be either planted in a nursery bed, or returned
with ihe parent plants into the regular flower beds ; they
should be inserted a little deeper than before, and the fine
fresh earth distributed well about the fibres.

In removing plants into the beds where they are intended
to blossom, great pains should be taken to preserve some of
the earth to their roots. The ground should be previously
brought into good condition, so that they may strike freely,
and produce their flowers in perfection. The plants should
be so arranged that they may all be seen, the most dwarfy
may be placed in front, and others in a regular gradation to
the tallest behind ; or the tallest may be planted along the
middle of the beds, and the others on each side according
to their varied heights and colours.

There is no part of gardening which requires so much
elegance of taste and fancy, as in setting off a border or bed
of intermixed flowers to advantage. In assemblage with
other flowers, the different kinds of hardy bulbs may be
planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in
diameter, three, four, five or more roots in each, according
to their size and growth, and these at suitable distances
from one another. Likewise observe to diversify the kinds
and colours, so as to display when in bloom, the greatest
possible variety of shades and contrasts.

If Greenhouse plants be plunged ii}to the flower borders
in the month of May, they will not only tend to ornament
the garden, by their diversity of foliage and blossom, but the
roots will receive a more uniform supply of moisture, than
if the pots were openly exposed to the sun and wind : care

BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 153

should however be taken to give the different species a situa-
tion suitable for them.* Hydrangeas, Primulas, Daisies,
Oleanders, Cammelias, China Roses, and half hardy plants
in general, thrive best in a moderately shaded situation.
Geraniums, Jasmines, Helotropes &c., may be plunged in a
sunny situation, provided they be regularly supplied with
water. Many species planted for ornament in the flower

* In some countries, the wealthy have changeable flower gardens;
the principal of which consists in the power of changing its production
at pleasure, so that whenever any plant or group of plants, begin to
decay, they can be removed, and their places supplied by others coming
into bloom. To admit this, a large" reserve-nursery is requisite, in which
the plants must be kept in pots and removed and plunged in the borders
as wanted. Sir W. Chambers informs us that the Chinese excel in this
mode of gardening ; and that he has known a mand »rin (or noble ) have
the who'u furniture and style of his parterre changed in a single night,
so as next morning to present not only a different description of flowers,
shrubs, and dwarf trees, but a different arrangement of the beds and
compartments. Something of the ^ame kind is practised in the gardens
of the Tuilleries, in Paris ; m some of the imperial gardens at Petersburg,
and in the vice-royal gardens at Monza Gardens of this description
admit of a very perfect arrangement of the flowers, whether in the
mingled manner, in select groups, or according to the natural method.
It is only with such resources that a flower-gardener can " paint his
way," as Sir W. Chambers says the Chinese artists do, "not scattering
their flowers indiscriminately about their borders, but disposing of them
with great circumspection along the skirts of the plantations, or other
places where flowers are to be introduced. They reject all that are of a
straggling growth of harsh colors and poor foliage, choosing only such
as are of some duration, grow either large or in clusters, are of beautiful
forms, well leaved, and of tints that harmonize with the greens that sur-
round them They avoid all sudden transitions, both with regard to
dimension and colour, rising gradually from the smallest flowers to those
of the boldest growth; and varying their tints, by easy gradations, from
white, straw-colour, purple, and incarnate, to the deepest blue?, and most
brilliant crimsons and scarlets. They frequently blend several roots
together, whose leaves and flowers unite, and compos*3 one rich harmo-
nious mass ; such as the white and purple candytuft, larkspurs, and
mallows of various colours, double poppies lupins, primroses, pinks, and
carnations : with many more of which the forms and'colours accord with
each other ; and the same method they use with flowering shrubs, blend-
ing white, red, and variegated roses together, purple and white lilacs,
yellow and white jasmines, altheas of various sorts, and as many others
as they can with any propriety unite. By these mixtures they increase
considerably the variety and beauty of their compartments. In their
large plantations, the flowers generally grow in the natural ground; but
in flower-gardens, and all other parts that are highly kept, they are in.
pots buried in the ground, which, as fast as the bloom goes off. are
removed and others are brought to supply their places ; so that there is
a constant succession for almost every mouth in the year ; and the
flowers are never seen but in the height of their beauty." — London's
Encyclopaedia of Gardening,

154 BIENIS'IAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS.

borders, may at the same time be propagated by layers.
The Fuchsia, or Ear-drop, Passion Flower, Helotrope,
Carnation, Petunia, running Verbena, &c., will iflayed in
June and July, exhibit their blossoms in perfection, and
yield young plants fit to transplant into flower pots in Sep-
tember and October.

It may be observed further that established plants will
always produce their blossoms earlier and stronger in the
Spring, than those recently transplanted ; it should, there-
fore, be an object with gardeners to do the business of
forming permanent flower beds, and of transplanting hardy
Perennial and Biennial plants in September or October,

The hardy bulbous roots must be also planted in October
or November, which on being properly preserved through
the Winter will embellish the parterre in Spring by their
early and FIRS r FLOWERS.

"First flowers of the Springtime,

Bright gems of the year,
AH love y and blooming,

How fresh ye appear ;
Springing up in the garden,

The hedge row and vale,
Enriched by the showers,

And fann d by the gale."

In my preliminary observations, I directed the attention
of my readers to some important points respecting walks,
edgings, &c. — Although box is superior to any thing else
for edgings ; yet in extensive gardens, dwarf plants of
various kinds may be used for such purpose. Thrift is the
neatest small evergreen next to box ; but Violets, Pinks,
Periwinkle, Pansey, Iris, Stone crop, or even Parsley ,Thyme,
Strawberry plants, &c. may be used for the sake of diversity.
These will require frequent watering and trimming, and the
Thrift, &c. should be sometimes taken up, divided at the
roots and replanted.

Box edgings will also require frequent pruning and trim-
ming ; and once in from seven to ten years the whole may

^LOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 155

be taken up, divided and replanted, and the surplus slips
may be planted in a nursery bed in rows about a foot apart;
these will be suitable for making edgings the year following.
Flower beds should be kept free from weeds, and watered
occasionally in the Summer. In the Autumn they should
be covered with leaves, straw or light litter ; this should be
taken off in the Spring, and the ground should be hoed and
dressed in such a manner as to enliven the earth around
the roots of the plants, as also to give the whole a neat
appearance.

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

Arbrisseaux d/Ornement.

SHRUBS are so closely connected with flowering plants,
and indeed so many of them are embellished with flowers,
that they may be considered as essential to the completion
of an ornamental garden. They are all Perennial, and are
divided into two classes, deciduous and evergreen ; the for-
mer lose their leaves in the Winter, the latter only shed
them when others are ready to supply their places.

Shrubs are not only necessary to the embellishment of a
flower garden, but many kinds are eligible for hedges to it.
and may be planted at a trifling expense. These hedges
should be frequently trimmed and trained, the sides cut.even
and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to make them ornamen-
tal, as well as useful, and also to increase the vigour of their
growth. When hedges become open or naked at the
bottom, they should be plashed down ; this is done by
cutting the branches half through near the ground; they
will then bend easily, and may be interwoven with the
adjoining branches.

When shrubs, creepers, or climbers, are planted against
walls or trellises, either on account of their rarity, delicacy,
or to conceal a rough fence, or other unsightly object, they
require different modes of training ; some attach themselves

]o6 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

naturally, as the ivy, and merely require to be occasionally
guided, so as to cause a regular distribution of their shoots ;
others must be treated like fruit trees, trained thinly, if
blossoms are the object, and rather thicker, if the intention
be to show the foliage to the greatest possible advantage.

Ornamental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve or more
in height; and where such are planted for ornament, the
height of each plant, when full grown, should be considered,
and also the mode of growth, that every one may be so
planted as to show to advantage, observing that the tall-
growing should be planted in the back part of the borders,
and those of low-growth forward ; but if they are/equired to
be planted in clumps, they should be so arranged as to rise
gradually from the sides to the middle, and be afterwards
neatly trimmed.

Shrubs require an annual pruning, at which time cut out
all irregular and superfluous branches, and head down such
as require it, forming them into handsome bushes. Apply
stakes to such as may need support, and see that the low-
growing ones do not injure each other, nor interfere with
other dwarfish plants near them.

Many kinds of shrubs may be raised from seed sown
early in the Spring, but are more commonly propagated by
suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like other plants, they require
a good soil, which should be manured every two or three
years, and some of the tender kinds should have some pro-
tection in Winter.

The following list taken from the New-York Farmer,
furnished by Mr. Floy, contains the most of those usually
planted in gardens and on lawns. These will furnish a
succession of flowers from Spring until Autumn, and may be
obtained at the nurseries at moderate prices.

CATALOGUE, &c.

AmorpJia fruticosa, — Indigo shrub, produces handsome
bunches of purple flowers in June and July.

Amygdalus nanat Dwarf double-flowering Almond; a

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 157

very beautiful shrub, about three feet high ; blossoms early
in April.

Aralia spinosa, or Angelica tree, about ten feet high ;
flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long season.

Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden Chain; a most elegant
shrub, producing long racemes or bunches of yellow flow-
ers in June and July ; there are two kinds, the
English and the Scotch Laburnum. The Scotch isv the
largest, forming a pretty large shrub ; the English kind is
greener, more compact, and by some thought to be the
handsomest ; they ought to be in every garden.

Calycanthus Floridus, Allspice, or sweet-scented shrub, a
native of the Southern States; the flowers are of a very
dark chocolate colour, and the fragrance very much resem-
bles ripe strawberries, easily kept when once introduced;
this shrub generally grows about five feet high in gardens ;
blossoms from May to August.

Ceanotkus Americanus, Red root, or Jersey Tea tree, a
plant or two in the collection, as it flowers in profusion, is
worth having.

Cercis siliquastrum, or Judas tree. The flowers appear
very early in the Spring, before the leaves coine out, and
make a fine appearance : as it grows rather tall, it is calcu-
lated for the back row of the shrubbery.

Colutca arborescms, or Bladder Senna, having bunches of
yellow flowers in June and July, which are succeeded by
seeds in a kind of bladder, calculated for the back or centre
row of shubberies.

Cratcegus oxyacantJta, the Hawthorn. It makes a pretty
appearance planted out singly in the back or centre row ;
the flowers are very fragrant; it is sometimes called the
Pride of May ; the double white, double scarlet, and single
scarlet Hawthorn, are extremely beautiful, and ought to be
in every plantation. Hawthorn hedges are much used in *
England, where they look very handsome when clipped ;
but they do not answer so well in this country, the heat
of our Summers causing the leaves to fall ofTearly, often in
July; on that account they are not much used. We have
several things which are better calculated for that purpose.
14

153 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS

Cydonia Japonica, or Pyrus Japonica, a very beautiful
scarlet-flowering shrub, from Japan, has not been in culti-
vation here for many years. It is found to be very hardy t
resisting our most severe frosts ; it is evergreen, flowers
very early, and continues a long time. A second flowering
takes place in the latter part of the Summer. It is every
way a desirable shrub.

Daphne mezerion, one of our most early flowering shrubs,
which blooms freely in April and May, and is very sweet-
scented. It is rather tender in some situations, but will
stand our ordinary Winters very well in a sheltered situation.
Dirca palustris, or Leather wood ; a pretty little shrub,
growing very regular in shape, and has the appearance of a
large tree in miniature ; it is a native of our Northern
States; the flowers, which appear very early in the Spring,
are yellow, and come out before the leaves.

Gymnodadus Canadensis, or Kentucky Coffee tree. The
berries have a resemblance to coffee, and are said to be
a good substitute for it ; however, it is a beautiful tree, with
handsome feathered leaves, and makes a fine contrast with
others. It should be planted in the back or the centre of
the plantation, and is very hardy.

Halesia diptera, and Halesia tetrapttra, two-winged and
four-winged Silver Bell, or Snow-drop tree. They are both
natives of the Southern States, but are perfectly hardy here ;
our most severe Winters do not hurt them. The former
kind flowers in April, and the latter withholds its blossoms
until May. They are elegant shrubs.

Hibiscus Syriacus, jl. plena. The double-flowering
Althea frutex, of which there are several varieties ; the
double white, double red, double red and white, and striped,
are the most showy ; they commence their flowering late in
July, and continue until Autumn. The single kind, of
* which there are many varieties, are scarcely worth culti-
vating, the double ones being raised quite as well, and
are equally hardy. These are indispensable in every
plantation.

Hypericum frutescens. Shrubby Hypericum. There are
several species of this small beautiful shrub, all natives of

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 159

the Southern States, but perfectly hardy here. They all
flower profusely in the Summer, and continue for a long
time. They should be planted in the front row.

Kerria Japonic^, or Corchorus Japonica, yellow Japan
Globe flower ; although a native of Japan, like many other
Japanese flowers, it is perfectly hardy here. It flowers in
the greatest profusion at all times, except in the very dead
of Winter, and will grow almost in any soil or situation.

Kcelreuieria paniculata, Japan bladder tree, or Koelre-
terius. This is another hardy shrub from Japan. It has
long racemes of flowers, succeeded by bladder-like fruit,
and is worthy of cultivation in every good collection.

Ligustrum vulgare, virens. Large European Privet, a
very handsome evergreen shrub, flowering profusely in June,
and produces bunches of black round berries. It bears
slipping well, and is therefore well calculated for hedges, or
to enclose ornamental plantations. It grows quick, and is
well adapted to our climate, aud when planted in a hedge-
row, and kept clipped, it makes a beautiful hedge, and ought
to be in more general use.

Philadelplius coronarius, or common Syringa, is very
ornamental, producing its sweet-scented flowers early in
the Spring, and in abundance.

Philadelphus inodorous, and P. grandiflorus. Garland
Syringa, are both natives of the Southern States, but quite
hardy here. Their flowers are large, and continue for
several months, in wreaths or garlands They are well
calculated for the centre row, and also to hide unsightly
objects, and have a beautiful effect when mixed with
monthly honeysuckles, &c.

Persica, or Amygdalus Persica, fl. rosea phno, or double-
flowering Peach, is very beautiful in shrubberies. It blos-
soms early, and sometimes bears fruit, but it is cultivated
entirely for its beautiful blossoms. A few trees of the
Chinese double-flowering Apple, (Pyrus spectabilis,) have
also a beautiful effect.

Rhus cotinus, Venetian sumach, Aaron's beard, some-
times called fringe tree, is a fine shrub, calculated for the
centre of the clump or shrubbery. Its large branches of

160 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

fringe remaining all the Summer, give it a curious and
king effect.

Ribes Missouriensis, or Missouri currant ; there are two
species of this very ornamental shrub from Missouri, intro-
duced by Lewis & Clarke; they are quite hardy, and flower
profusely from April to June.

Robinia glutinosa, and Robinia hispid a ; the former a
pretty large shrub, producing fine bunches of flowers in
great abundance throughout the Summer; the latter is a
smaller shrub ; both of them are, however, worthy of a place
in large collections.

Robinia pseudo-acacia, or Yellow Locust tree.* This is
superior to any other kind of wood for ship-tunnels, rnill-
cogs, and fence-posts, as well as for various other purposes^
Its culture is very easy, and may be propagated in great
abundance, by sowing the seed in March, April, or May, in
a bed of good sandy loam, which is its favorite soil, and
covering half an inch deep. Previous to sowing, put the
seed in a basin, pour on scalding water, and let it stand all
Jiight ; pick out such seeds as are swollen, and plant them
immediately ; next evening repeat the same process with
such as did not swell the first night, mix the whole and
sow them ; they will come up in the course of the following
mouth numerously; for no seeds grow more freely, not-
withstanding what some say to the contrary. When the
plants are ayearold, transplant them out of the seed bed into
nursery rows, four feet distant, and plant from plant, one
foot. Having two or three years' growth in these rows,
they may be planted successfully in any warm and tolerably
rich sandy ground. They may also be propagated by suck-
ers, which they throw up abundantly, especially if some of
the wide-extending roots be cut through with an axe. An,
acre of these trees, planted at two feet distant each way, will
contain 10,890 ; at four feet distant, 2,722 ; and it is said
that no appropriation of land is more lucrative than that
devoted to this purpose. The Three-Thorned Acacia Seed
(Gleditschia) should be prepared in the same manner.

* This tree is introduced here, rather on acccount of its usefulness
than beauty, though the latter is very considerable.

FLOWERING AND OBNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 161

Rosa, or Roses, a very numerous Variety of these; some
reckon five or six hundred kinds. They are accounted the
most beautiful of Flora's productions. Perhaps a handsome
collection might be made of about fifty of the best sorts,
which, by taking such quantity, I suppose might be obtained
at about fifty cents each, under name ; and, generally, a
fine collection unnamed at half that amount. No good
garden or shrubbery should be without them.

Sorbus aucuparia,) Mountain Ash, or Roan tree. This
is a very beautiful shrub of the larger size ; the leaves are
ornamental ; the flowers and fruit, which are produced in
large bunches, are beautiful ; the fruit remains till late in
the Autumn ; it is a native of Europe.

Sorbus Canadensis. This is a native of our Northern
frontiers and mountains ; it does not grow so large as the
former ; the berries are smaller and red, the former larger
and of an orange colour, but otherwise much resemble it.

Spartium junceum, Genista, etc. Two or three species of
Broom, producing numerous bunches of yellow flowers in
May and June ; the Genista, or Spanish Broom, which has
white flowers, is also very pretty, but not quite so hardy as
the former.

Symphoria racemosa, or Snow-berry, sometimes called
St. Peter's wort, a pretty little shrub ; the bunches of wax-
like white berries, which it produces during the whole Sum-
mer, give it a beautiful appearance.

Syringa vu7garis^ or common Lilac, blossoming in May,
i well known to all, and needs no comment. The white
variety is not quite so common — they are only used for out-
side plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon make
themselves common.

Syringa Persica, or Persian Lilac, is a delicate low shrub
the flowers very abundant, and the leaves small and delicate.
There are two varieties of the Persian Lilac ; the white
flowering, and the blue or purple flowering.

The Chinese cut-leaved Lilac is very curious ; the leaves
are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in longer racemes
than the former.

Siberian, or large Persian Lilac. The bunches of flowers

14*

162 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

are very large, and continue in season a long time after tlie
common Lilac.

Tamarix Gallica, or French Tamarix, and the Tamarix
Germanica, German Tamarix, are two pretty shrubs ; the
leaves and branches are small and slender, producing quan-
tities of beautiful flowers, which form a very striking contrast
to the other part of the shrubbery.

Viburnum opulus, or Guilder rose, otherwise called Snow-
ball, is a very showy shrub, producing large balls of snow-
white flowers in May ; and is indispensably necessary to
every shrubbery.

Vitex agnus castus, or Chaste tree, a pretty and singular
shrub, flowering the most part of the Summer.

CLIMBING PLANTS.

Ampelopsis hederacea. This plant, on account of the
largeness of its leaves, and rapidity of its growth, is weM
adapted for covering walls. There are several species, all
resembling the vine in habit arid flower.

Aristolochia sipho. Birthwort, or Dutchman's pipe. A
very curious blooming plant, with extraordinary large foliage,
well calculated for an arbour ; affording a dense and cool-
ing shade.

Atragene alpina. A free-growing deciduous shrub, with
small pinnated foliage, and large blush-coloured flowers,
which continue from May to July.

Bignonia crucigera, is a desirable evergreen ; being of a
luxuriant growth. It will cover in a few years an area of
fifty feet ; and bloom from May to August; colour orange.
Bignonia radicans, or Trumpet creeper, produces large
bunches of red trumpet-shaped flowers, in July and August.
Bignonia grandiflora, is much like the former in habit
and appearance, but the flowers are much larger. It is
said to be a native of China, and the former a native of this
country. They are both perfectly hardy, and will climb up
brick work or wooden fences, without any assistance.

Clematis, or Virgin's Bower. There are several speciesi
some of them tender, or not sufficiently hardy for our severe

CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

Winters, without protection. The Clematis azurea, bi color
andjlama, are splendid varieties. The Clematis Virginica,
Viorna} Viticelli, and Vitalba, are perfectly hardy, and
blossom throughout the Summer.

Glycine Smensis, or Wistaria Sinensis, is a handsome
Chinese creeper of recent introduction, from China, and i*
not yet common in our nurseries. It is a beautiful vine,
running to a great height, and loaded with long racemes Of
purple flowers throughout the Summer.

Glycine frutescens, or Wistaria frutescens. This beautiful
brother ofthe Chinese kind, is a native of our SouthernStates,
grows much in the same way as the others, and perhaps not
inferior. Although this fine creeper has been long known
in England, we have not heard much about it by English
writers ; the conclusion seems to be, that it does not flower
well in England. In fact, none of our Southern plants do
well in that country, while those from China do very well —
here, however, it is quite the reverse. I have the Chinese
Wistaria Sinensis, from fifteen to twenty feet high, and the
American Wistaria about the same height. The Chinese
does not look so vigorous and green as his American bro-
ther.— The American Wistaria should be planted in every
garden with other creepers, or to run up the trees in shrub-
beries, according to its natural position.

Hedra Helix. Irish Ivy, is a desirable evergreen for
covering naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The
leaves are of a lively green, and from three to five angled.
There are several varieties of it; all calculated for growing
in confined shady situations, where plants in general will
not thrive.

Jasminum ojflcinale. Garden Jasmine. This delicious
climbing shrub, has from time immemorial, been common in
Europe for covering arbours. Its delicate white fragrant
flowers render it very desirable ; but it is rather tender for
our Northern Winters, unless well protected. In the South-
ern States, this plant, and also the yellow Jasmine, revolu-
tum, grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely, and even Jas-
minum grandiflora will endure the Winters of South Caro-
lina and Grorgia.

164 CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

Lonicera, comprehending all the fine sweet-scented honey,
suckles. Of the Italian kinds, the monthly honeysuckle is
decidedly superior, continuing to flower all through the
Summer, until late in Autumn, and is very fragrant. Some
of the other European kinds maybe occasionally introduced
into large shrubberies. There is a white honeysuckle
lately introduced from France, denominated Hedysarum
coronarium, which is in great repute. Two or three Ameri-
can kinds deserve particular notice.

Lonicera semper virens^or Coral Trumpet, monthly honey-
suckle, is extremely beautiful, flowering the whole of the
Summer, with its thousands of scarlet bunches ; it is,
however, destitute of scent.

Lonicera Fraseri, also an American : the flowers are like
the other kind in almost every particular, except colour,
this being a bright yellow.

Lonicera^ pubescent, or Caprifolium pubescens, a large
and beautiful honeysuckle from the North-west coast ; the
flowers are large, and of a bright copper colour, inclining to
orange — they are all perfectly hardy.

Lonicera Jlexuosa — Chinese honeysuckle, of late intro-
duction ; it is perfectly hardy, withstanding our most severe
frosts without the least injury ; it is a very sweet-scented
honeysuckle, grows rapidly, and to an immense height. It
flowers in pairs and threes all up the branches, covering the
whole plant completely with flowers. It blossoms in Spring
and Autumn, and is a very valuable acquisition to our gar-
dens and shrubberies.

Lonicera Japonica, or Japan honeysuckle. This bears
flowers in great profusion, which are white, afterwards be-
coming of a light yellow. It is not so hardy as the
Chinese, and requires a little protection in the Winter.

Passijlora, or Passion Vine. There are several hardy
species, but the best is the Passiflora incarnata ; this, al-
though it dies to the ground every Winter, will, during the
Summer, grow from twenty to thirty feet, and yield abun-
dance of beautiful purple flowers.

Periplaca grasca, or Silk Vine. A prolific climber, wood
slender, twining and elastic, leaves, smooth, ovate, lanceolate.

CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 165

Established plants will grow thirty or forty feet in one season,
and yield flowers in clusters, of a brownish yellow colour
from May to July.

I shall only add to the above, the running kinds of roses;
although there are many other things which might be men-
tioned.

Rosa multiflora, from China, is pretty well known, pro-
ducing thousands of small double red roses in bunches. It
requires a sheltered situation from some of our keen north-
westers. Rosa mult'i.flora alba, from the same country, is of
late importation, but as it increases readily, may be ob-
tained at about the same price as the former; the bunches
of flowers are white. Rosa Grivellis, a running rose, also
from China, the flowers ofvarious colours. Rosa rubifolia,
Raspberry-leaved rose, from our Northern frontiers, and
extending over the Western country ; although a single
flowering rose, it produces large bunches of flowers, which
are differently coloured on the same bunch, exactly like the
former China kind, and is another instance of the similarity
of plants, natives of China, and our country.

Rosa canina,fl. ple.no. English double dog rose, is a very
pretty little double rose, and will run to a great height.
Rosa Banksii, Lady Banks' double white China running
rose ; it runs up and spreads much — it may be easily known
from others of the running roses, by its being entirely des-
titute of prickles. Rosa Noisette, and Champney's, are
said to have been raised from China seeds in Carolina —
they are not strictly running roses, but as they grow up tall,
are fine ornaments for the shrubbery, flowering during the
whole of the Summer and Autumn, in large clusters. The
Maderia rose, or double white cluster, musk, flowers through-
out the Summer and Autumn months, and is therefore well
adapted for the shrubbery. Rosa Cherokensis, called the
nondescript, or Georgia rose — the flowers are very large,
being white, with yellow centre. This is a running rose,
growing very high around trees, &c.

Rosa rubiginosa, or Sweetbriar, is too well known to
need description.

166
BRIEF DIRECTIONS

FOR THE

PROPAGATION

OF

Flowering shrubs are variously propagated by slips, cut-
tings, layers, suckers, buds or scions; and these may be thus
defined.

1. Slips are simply small branches, slipped down from
the side of a large branch, or from the main stem. These
should be taken from the parent plants, carefully, so as to
leave an eye or heel, at the lower or but-end.

2. Cuttings should be made from shoots or stalks of a
prior year's growth ; and such should be selected as are well
ripened, having their joints not far apart : they may be cut
so as to have three or four joints in each cutting. In some
species of succulent plants, the joints being near together,
cuttings need not be more than from four to six inches long;
but shrubby plants in general will admit of their being from
ten to twelve inches.

3. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing, except that they
strike root into the soil, while yet adhering to the parent
plant.

4. Suckers are in reality young plants, connected to the
parent at the root, which should be carefully separated in
Spring or Autumn, and transplanted in the same manner as
plants raised by any other method ; either in a Nursery bed,
Shrubbery, or Flower border.

5. Scions are of two sorts; scions properly so called, and
buds. A scion is a cutting, or portion of a plant, which is
caused to grow upon another plant, from which it attracts
fluid for the nourishment of its leaf buds ; these thus fed,
gradually grow upwards into branches, and send woody
matter downwards, so as to become connected with the stock
grafted on,

PROPAGATION OP ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 167

The business of planting slips, cuttings, <fcc. of the tender
kinds into nursery pots, and the hardy kinds into borders, is
generally performed in Spring and Autumn ; there arer
however, some exceptions to this rule, which will be ex-
plained hereafter. See Calendar and Index.

For the purpose of raising hardy flowering shrubs by
slips or cuttings, let a border be prepared in a shaded and
sheltered situation, by manuring and deep digging. Provide
plants about a foot long, and insert them into the ground,
full one-third of their length ; the rows may be about two
feet apart, and the plants nine inches from each other in the
rowd. Press the ground around the stems, and rake it
smooth. The after management of nursery beds made in
Spring, is to keep them watered in dry weather, also to hoe
them occasionally, and by Autumn the plants will be rooted.

In cold climates, plantations made in Autumn, should
be protected by a covering of leaves, straw or litter, merely
sufficient to screen the plants from wind and the sun's rays
in time of freezing, the heat of the Sun being more destruc-
tive to vegetation in Winter than the cold weather.

To increase flowering shrubs, rose bushes, or any other
plants by layers, dig the ground about the plants to be
operated on to a good depth ; then with a sharp knife cut
between two joints half through the stalk or branch, and turn-
ing the edge of the knife upwards, make a slit past the first
joint to the middle between it and the next above ; make a
hollow in the ground and insert the cut part from one to three
inches deep, according to the nature of the plant operated
on, keeping the branch perpendicular, and the slit open.
Each layer should be pegged down with a hooked stick,
made from small branches of trees, to keep it in its proper
position, as well as to prevent the cut part from uniting,
whence the roots form for the young plants.

Budding, grafting, and inarching, is often practised on
shrubs, with a view to perpetuate improved varieties. Bud-
ding may be performed on roses of different descriptions, as
the White Moss, Unique, Tuscany, and other fine varieties :
upon such wild kinds as are of a strong habit. The best
time for performing the operation, is towards the end of July

168 PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

or early in August, as the buds are then generally matured
so that the bark parts freely from the wood, which is essen-
tial to the successful accomplishment of the business.

Grafting is generally performed in the Spring. There
are many methods practised on trees, as cleft grafting, whip
grafting, saddle grafting, side grafting, root grafting, inarch-
ing or grafting by approach, &c. which methods are •»!! fully
explained under the head of "Budding and Grafting," in the
fruit department. I shall, however, here present a short
view of the mode best adapted for shrubs.

Scallop budding is performed by cutting from a small
stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in
length, and taking from the chosen twig, a thin scallop of
wood of the same dimensions : this is instantly applied, and
fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible
on its sides, and firmly bound with bass matting. This may
be performed in Spring, and if it fails, it may be done again
in the month of July. The French practise this mode on
Roses.

The most simple method of grafting is, to cut off the
stock in a wedge- like manner ; then prepare one of the grafts
with three or four eyes ; proceed to cut a slit in it upwards,
and thrust it on the stock, taking care to join the bark of each
together; tie them firmly together with bass, and immediately
cover the grafted part with clay and horse dung mixed ;
which being well prepared, should be closed securely round
the graft in an oval form,

Inarching, or grafting by approach may be thus performed.
The shrubs to be grafted must be growing very near to those
which are to furnish the grafts ; a branch of each must
then be prepared by making a long sloping cut nearly to its
centre ; the twain must be brought together, and secured
by a bandage of matting, so that the bark may meet as
nearly as possible- The graft may then be covered with clay
composition ; and when a complete union has taken place,
the plants may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting
off below the junction.

As the above directions are applicable to the propagation,
and management of Greenhouse tender, and half hardy

PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 169

plants, as well as to hardy shrubs and vines ; it may be ne-
cessary here to remind the reader, that delicate roses and
half-hardy woody plants left out during the Winter, should be
protected either by bending down the branches and covering
them with soil, or by tying them up to stakes, and binding
straw snugly around them. At the same time throw some
dung on the ground about the roots ; the longest of which
may be raked offon the approach of Spring, and the shortest
forked in, so as to manure the plants, and thus give vigour
to their rising shoots.

Deciduous shrubs may be transplanted at any time after
they lose their leaves, and before the buds begin to expand in
Spring, provided the ground can be brought into good con-
dition to receive them ; the holes should be dug capacious
enough to hold the roots without cramping them, and some
earth, well pulverized, must be thrown equally among the
fibres of the roots, which should be well shaken, and the
earth trodden down around the plants, until brought to the
level required. Evergreens should be removed carefully
with a ball of earth connected with their roots, and some
good mould should be provided to fill in with.

The Spring pruning of shrubs and vines should be attended
to before the buds begin to rise ; say March in the Northern
States, and January in the South. In performing this busi-
ness, use a sharp knife, in order that all amputations and
wounds be cut and pared smooth, and in a slanting manner.
Divest the plants of all dead wood, superfluous branches, and
those which cross each other. Regulate the plantation in
such manner, that the natural form and habit of each plant
be retained as much as possible, and train the branches so
that the Sun can have free access to every part ; bearing in
mind the hints thrown out in the introduction to our Cata-
logue. Some shrubs and vines will need a Summer pruning,
merely to thin out young shoots, superfluous wood, &c. and
to train straggling branches.

15

170

THE

BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY.

THE following article is submitted, as being well calcu-
lated to afford amateurs mental recreation, while engaged
in rural pursuits ; and it is presumed that the practical
gardener will not view the insertion of this article as a
digression, as it exhibits the beauty and order of the flowery
tribe in propitious climates, or when cultivated at the proper
season, in a truly appropriate and amusing light.

APRIL.

"Descend, sweet April, from yon watery bow,
And liberal strew the ground with budding flowers,
With leafless Crocus, leaf-veiled Violet,
Auricula, with powdered cup. Primrose *

That loves to lurk below the Hawthorn shade."

It is generally admitted, that the month of April gives the
most perfect image of Spring ; for its vicissitudes of warm
gleams of sunshine and gentle showers, have the most pow-
erful effect in hastening the universal springing of the vege-
table tribes, from whence the season derives its appellation.
Next comes the favourite month of the year, in poetical
description,

MAY.

"For thee, sweet month, the groves green liv'ries wear;
If not the first, the fairest in the year ;
Thou dost afford us many pleasant hours,
While Nature's ready pencil paints the flowers."

The pious Hervey, in his Meditations on the Flower Gar-
den, has furnished us many sublime ideas respecting the
order, variety, and beauty of the flowery tribe.* It is in

*Those who have read Hervey "s Meditations on the Flower Garden ,
will discover that the pious author's phraseology, and several of his
sublime ideas, are interspersed through this article, which, from being
blended with other matter, could not be designated in the customary way.

THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY. 171

vain to attempt a catalogue of those amiable gifts. There
is an endless multiplicity in their characters, yet an inva-
riable order in their approaches. Every month, almost every
week, has its peculiar ornaments ; not servilely copying the
works of its predecessors, but forming, still forming, and
still executing, some new design ; so lavish is the fancy, yet
so exact is the process of Nature. Were all the flowery
tribe to exhibit themselves at one particular season, there
would be at once a promiscuous throng, and at once a total
privation.

We should scarcely have an opportunity of adverting to
the dainty qualities of half, and must soon lose the agreeable
company of them all. But now, since every species has a
separate post to occupy, and a distinct interval for appearing,
we can take a leisurely and minute survey of each succeed-
ing set. We can view and review their forms, enter into a
more intimate acquaintance with their charming accom-
plishments, and receive all those pleasing sensations which
they are calculated to yield.

Before the trees have ventured to unfold their leaves, and
while-the icicles are pendant on our houses, the Snow-drop
breaks her way through the frozen soil, fearless of danger.
Next peeps out the Crocus, but cautiously and with an air
of timidity. She shuns the howling blasts, and cleaves
closely to her humble situation. Nor is the Violet last in
the shining embassy, which, with all the embellishments
that would grace a royal garden, condescends to line our
borders, and bloom at the feet of briars. Freely she distri-
butes the bounty of her emissive sweets, while herself retires
from sight, seeking rather to administer pleasure than to
win admiration. Emblem, expressive emblem, of those
modest virtues which delight to bloom in obscurity. There
are several kinds of Violets, but the fragrant, both blue and
white, are the earliest. Shakspeare compares an exquisitely
sweet strain of music to the delicious scent of this flower :

"Oh ! it came o'er my ear like the sweet South,
That breathes upon a bank of Violets,
.Stealing and giving odour."

172 THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY.

The pious Hervey, in his admonitions to those who
indulge in sloth, has thrown out the following sublime ideas:
What sweets are those which so agreeably salute my nos-
trils ? They are the breath of the flowers, the incense of
the gardens. How liberally does the Jasmine dispense her
odoriferous riches ! How deliciously has the Woodbine
embalmed this morning walk ! The air is all perfume.
And is not this another most engaging argument to forsake
the bed of sloth 1 Who would be involved in senseless
slumbers, while so many breathing sweets invite him to a
feast of fragrancy — especially considering that the advan-
cing day will exhale the volatile dainties? A fugitive treat
they are, prepared only for the wakeful and industrious*
Whereas, when the sluggard lifts his heavy eyes, the flowers
will droop, their fine sweets be dissipated, and instead of
this refreshing humidity, the air will become a kind of liquid
fire."

With this very motive, heightened by a representation of
the most charming pieces of morning scenery, the parent of
mankind awakes his lovely consort. There is such a deli-
cacy in the choice, and so much life in the description of
these rural images, that I cannot excuse myself without
repeating the whole passage. Whisper it, some friendly
genius, in the ear of every one, who is now sunk in sleep,
and lost to all these refined gratifications !

" Awake ! the morning shines, and the fresh field
Calls you: ye lose the prime, to mark how spring
The tended plants, how blows the Citron grove ;
What drops the Myrrh, and what the balmy Reed ;
* How Nature paints her colours; how the bee
Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets."

How delightful is this fragrance ! It is distributed in
the nicest proportion ; neither so strong as to oppress the
organs, nor so faint as to elude them. We are soon cloyed
at a sumptuous banquet ; but this pleasure never loses its
poignancy, never palls the appetite. Here luxury itself is
innpcence ; or rather in this case, indulgence is incapable of
excess. This balmy entertainment not only regales the

THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY. 173

sense, but cheers the very soul ; and, instead of clogging,
elates its powers.

41 The soft green grass is growing

O'er meadow and o'er dale ;
The silvery founts are flowing

Upon the verdant vale ;
The pale Snow-drop is springing

To greet the glowingSun ;
The Primrose sweet is flinging

Perfume the fields along ;
The trees are in their blossom,

The birds are in their song ;
As Spring upon the bosom

Of Nature's borne along."

"So the dawn of human life
Doth green and verdant spring:
It doth little ween the strife-
Like the Snow-drop it is fair,

And liko the Primrose sweet,
But its innocence can't scare
The blight from its retreat."

Our subject is so enchanting, that we had inadvertently
wandered from the path we first entered. We now retrace
our steps, and take a glance at surrounding objects. The
fields look green with the springing grass. See the Daffodil
how it spreads itself to the wind 1 The leaves of Honey-
suckles begin to expand, and Lilacs, or Syringas, of various
hues, unfold their buds. The Almond exhibits its rosy
clusters, and the Corchorus its golden balls. Many of the
lowlier plants exhibit their yellow and purple colours, and
the buds of Lilies, and other Perennial plants, prepare
to show themselves. If we turn our attention to the orchard,
we behold the Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches, lead the
way in blossoming, which are followed by the Cherry and
the Plum. These form a most agreeable spectacle, as well
on account of their beauty as of the promise they give of
future benefits. It is, however, an anxious time for the
possessor, as the fairest prospect of a plentiful increase
is often blighted. Shakspeare draws a pathetic comparison

15"

174 THE BEAUTIES OF A?RIL AND MAY.

from this circumstance, of the delusive nature of human
expectations :

" This is the state of man ; to-day he puts forth
The tender leaves of hope; to-morrow blossoms,
And bears his blushing honors thick upon him ;
The third day comes a frost, a killing frost,
And nips his root."

But we now return to the garden. Before we have time
to explore Nature's treasures, many disappear ; among these
are the humble Daisy, which shrinks from the intense heat,
and the several varieties of Primulas or early spring flowers.
The various grades of Polyanthus deserve a close inspec-
tion ; these, for a while, exhibit their sparkling beauties, but
alas ! soon disappear. Scarcely have we sustained this loss,
but in comes the Auricula, and more than retrieves it. Ar-
rayed she comes in a splendid variety of amiable forms,
with an eye of crystal, and garments of the most glossy
satin. A very distinguished procession this ! The favorite
care of the florist, but these also soon disappear. Who
could forbear grieving at their departure, did not the various
sorts of bulbous flowers burst their bands asunder, or rather
expand so as to exhibit their fragrance and beauty.

"Fair-handed Spring

Throws out the Snow-drop and the Crocus first,
The Daisy, Primrose, Violet darkly blue,
And Polyanthus with unumbered dyes.
Then comes the Auricula, enriched with shining meal,
O'er all their velvet leaves."

While we reluctantly dispense with the sweet perfumes of
the Hyacinth and Narcissus, we behold the Tulips begin to
raise themselves on their fine wands or stately stalks. They
flush the parterre with one of the gayest dresses that bloom-
ing Nature wears. Here one may behold the innocent
wantonness of beauty. Here she indulges a thousand freaks,
and sports herself in the most charming diversity of colours.
In a grove of Tulips, or a bed of Pinks, one perceives a
difference in almost every individual. Scarcely any two

THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAT. 1T5

are turned and tinted exactly alike. What colours, what
colours are here ! these so nobly bold, and those so deli-
cately languid!

What a glow is enkindled in some ! what a gloss shines
upon others! With what a masterly skill is every one of
the varying tints disposed ! Here they seem to be thrown
on with an easy dash of security and freedom ; there they
are adjusted by the nicest touches of art and accuracy.
Those colours which form the ground are always so judi-
ciously chosen, as to heighten the lustre of the superadded
figures ; while the verdure of the impalement, or shadings
of the foliage, impart new liveliness to the whole. Fine,
inimitably fine, is the texture of the web on which these
shining treasures are displayed. What are the labours of
the Persian looms ; what all the gay attire which the shuttle
or the needle can furnish, compared with Nature's works 1
One cannot forbear reflection in this place, on the too pre-
vailing humour of being fond and ostentatious of dress.
What an abject and mistaken ambition is this ! How un-
worthy the dignity of man, and the wisdom of rational
beings ! Especially since these little productions of the
earth have indisputably the pre-eminence in such outward
embellishments.

"Bright TULIPS, we do know,

Ye had your coming hither,
And fading time doth show,

That ye must quickly wither;

Your sisterhood may stay,

And smile here for an hour,

. But ye must quickly die away,

E'en as the meanest flower.

Come virgins, then, and see

Your frailties, and bemoan ye ;
For lost like these, — 'twill be

As time had never known ye."

But let us not forget the fragrant, the very fragrant Wall
and Gilli-flowers ; some of these regale us with their per-

I «O THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY.

fumes through various vicissitudes and alternations of the
season, while others make a transient visit only.

" I love thee, lone and pensive flower,

Because thou dost not flaunt thy bloom
In pleasure's gay and garnish'd bower,

Or luxury's proud banquet room ;
But on the silent mouldering wall

Thy clinging leaves a fragrance shed,
Or give to the deserted hall

A relic of its glories fled.

These wreaths, in vivid freshness bright,

Methinks the fluttering herd portray,
Who bask on fortune's golden light,
, And wanton in her joyous way ;

But thou art like that gentle love,

Which blooms when friends and fame have pass'd,
Towers the dark wreck of hope above,

And smiles through ruin to the last."

In favoured climates arises the Anemone, encircled at
the bottom with a spreading robe, and rounded at the top
into a beautiful dome. In its loosely-flowing mantle, you
may observe a noble negligence ; in its gently-bendingttifts
the nicest symmetry. This may be termed the fine gentle-
man of the garden, because it seems to possess the means
of uniting simplicity and refinement, of reconciling art and
ease. The same month has the merit of producing the
Ranunculus. All bold and graceful, it expands the riches
of its foliage, and acquires by degrees the loveliest enamel
in the world. As persons of intrinsic worth disdain the
superficial arts of recommendation practised by fops, so this
lordly flower scorns to borrow any of its excellencies from
powders and essences. It needs no such attractions to
render it the darling of the curious, being sufficiently enga-
ging from the elegance of its figure, the radiant variety of its
tinges, and a certain superior dignity of aspect.

JUNE.

" Now have young April, and the blue-eyed May,
Vanished awhile, and lo ! the glorious June
(While Nature ripens in his burning noon.)
Gomes like a young inheritor."

THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY* 177

I had intended to confine our meditations to the beauties
of April and May, but Nature seems to improve in her
operations. Her latest strokes are the most masterly. To
crown the collection, she introduces the Carnation, which
captivates our eyes with a noble spread of graces, and
charms another sense with a profusion of exquisite odours.
This single flower has centered in itself the perfection of all
the preceding. The moment it appears, it so commands
our attention, that we scarcely regret the absence of the rest.

i

"Maternal Flora, with benignant hand,

Her flowers profusely scatters o'er the land :
These deck the vallies with unnumber'd hues,
And far around their pregnant sweets diffuse ;
The broad CARNATIONS, gay and spotted Pinks, ,. -»
Are shower 'd profuse along the rivers' brinks."

The field we have entered is so extensive and so enchant-
ing, that we cannot extricate ourselves, without taking a
cursory glance at the airs and habits, the attitude and linea-
ments, of each distinct class. See the PaBonia of China,
splendid and beautifully grand! View the charming Rose,
delicate and languishingly fair! and while you inhale its
balmy sweetness, you will be constrained to admire it, not-
withstanding its thorny appendages.

"Rose! thou art the sweetest flower
That ever drank the amber shower ;
Rose ! thou art the fondest child
Of dimpled Spring ! the wood-nymph wild !
Resplendant Rose ! the flower of flowers,
Whose breath perfumes Olympus' bowers ;
Whose virgin blush, of chasten'd dye,
Enchants so much our mental eye."

Behold all the pomp and glory of the parterre, where
Nature's paint and perfume do wonders. Some rear their
heads as with a majestic mien, and overlook, Jike sovereigns
or nobles, the whole parterre. Others seem more modest
in their aims, and advance only to the middle stations ; a
genius turned for heraldry might term them the gentry of

178 THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY.

the border ; while others, free from all aspiring airs, creep
unambitiously on the ground, and look like the commonalty
of the kind. Some are intersected with elegant stripes, or
studded with radiant spots. Some affect to be genteelly
powdered, or neatly fringed ; while others are plain in their
aspect, unaffected in their dress, and content to please with
a naked simplicity. Some assume the monarch's purple ;
some 'look most becoming in the virgin's white ; but black,
doleful black, has no admittance into the wardrobe of Spring.
The weeds of mourning would be a manifest indecorum,
when Nature holds an universal festival. She would now
inspire none but delightful ideas, and therefore always makes
her appearance in some amiable suit. Here stands a war-
rior clad with crimson ; there sits a magistrate robed in
scarlet ; and yonder strusts a pretty fellow, that seems to
have dipped his plumes in the rainbow, and glitters in all
the gay colours of that resplendent arch. Some rise into a
curious cup, or fall into a set of beautiful bells. Others spread
themselves in a swelling tuft, or crowd into a delicious
cluster. In some the predominant stain softens by the
gentlest diminutions, till it has even stolen away from itself.
The eye is amused at the agreeable delusion, and we wonder
to find ourselves insensibly decoyed into quite a different
lustre. In others one would think the fine tinges were
emulous of pre-eminence ; disdaining to mingle, they con-
front one another with the resolution of rivals, determined
to dispute the prize of beauty; while each is improved, by the
opposition, into the highest vivacity of complexion.

"Mrs. Peeony came in quite late in a heat,

With the Ice-plant, dew-spangled from forehead to feet ;

Lobelia, attired like a queen in her pride,

And Dahlias, with trimmings new furbish'd and dyed,

And the Blue-bells, and Hare-bells in simple array,

With all their Scotch cousins from highland and brae,

Ragged Ladies and Marigolds clustered together,

And gossip'd of i.r andal, the news, and the weather ;

What dresses were worn at the wedding so fine

Of sharp Mrs. Thistle, and sweet Columbine."

179
OBSERVATIONS

ON THE

CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED

PLANTS.

THESE plants exhibit a striking variety of the beauties of
Nature. It would seem as if every change she was capable
of forming, was included in the radiant colours of the Tulip.
Never was a cup either painted or enamelled with such a
profusion of tints. Its stripes are so glowing, its contrasts
so strong, and the arrangement of them both so elegant and
artful, that it may, with propriety, be denominated the
reigning beauty of the garden in its season. The Hyacinth
is also an estimable flower for its blooming complexion, as
well as for its most agreeable perfume and variety.

"The Hyacinth, purple, white, aud blue,
Which flung from its bells a sweet peal anew,
Of music so delicate, soft, intense,,
It was felt like an odour within the sense."

The Double Dahlia, in its numerous varieties, is incon-
ceivably splendid. It is only about forty years since the
first of these, which was single, was introduced into Europe
from Mexico.

Double Dahlias of three colours, were first known in the
year 1802, since that time the varieties have so increased,
that such as a few years ago were considered beautiful, are
now thrown away to give place to the more splendid sorts.
I have good authority for stating, that upwards of twenty
thousand seedlings are raised yearly in England, only a
few of which are introduced into the collections of amateurs,
to take the place of such old sorts as may from time to time
be rejected. This is done, in order that none but the very
choicest be retained in such collections.

In some gardens in Holland they cultivate; by distinct
names, about eleFen hundred varieties of Tulips, thirteen

ISO BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

hundred of Hyacinths, and six hundred of Ranunculusea
and Anemones, some of which are sold as high as sixty
dollars the single root. It is stated in the travels of Mr.
Dutens, of his having known ten thousand florins, equal to
$4000, refused for a single Hyacinth ; and Dodsley says,
in his Annual Register for 1765, that the Dutch of all
ranks, from the greatest to the meanest, during tke years
from 1634 to 1637 inclusive, neglected their business to en-
gage in the Tulip trade. Accordingly in those days, the
Viceroy was sold for £250, the Admiral Lief keens £440,
and Semper Augustus at from £500 to £1000 each ; and
also that a collection of Tulips was sold by the executors of
one Wouter Broekholsmentser for £9000. It is stated that
in one city in Holland, in the space of three years, they had
traded for a million sterling in Tulips.

As a full catalogue of all the varieties of bulbous and
tuberous-rooted plants would occupy a number of pages,
without affording much general interest, I shall content
myself by devoting a short paragraph in describing some of
each particular species, which will be accompanied with
directions for their culture, in a brief, and, at the same time,
explicit manner.

It may be here necessary to define the difference between
bulbous and tuberous roots. Those designated bulbous,
have skins similar to Onions, or the Allium tribe; and tuber-
ous roots imply all such as produce tubers something similar
to Potatoes.

The soil for bulbous and tuberous roots in general should
be light and yet capable of retaining moisture, not such as
is liable to become bound up by heat, or that in consequence
of too large a portion of sand, is likely to become violently
hot in Summer; but a medium earth between the two ex-
tremes. As many city gardens do not contain a natural
soil of any depth, a suitable compost should be provided in
»uch cases, which may consist of equal parts of sand, loam,
rotten manure, mould, &c.

When ready, the beds may be laid out, from three to four
feet wide, and they should be raised two or three inches
above the level of the walks, which will give an opportunity

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLA3T3. l8l

for all superfluous moisture to run off. Let the beds thus
formed be pulverized to the depth of fifteen or eighteen
inches; and at the time of planting, let a small quantity of
beach sand be strewed in the apertures or trenches, prepared
for the roots to grow in, both before and after placing them,
which will prove beneficial.

A Southern exposure, dry and airy, and sheltered from
the nordi-west winds, is preferable for most bulbs. But
Anemones and Ranunculuses should be in some measure
sheltered from the intense heat of noon.

Beds of hardy bulbous and tuberous roots should be
covered on the approach of Winter with litter, leaves, straw,
or such earth as is formed by the decay of leaves, to the
depth of two or three inches, as it prevents any ill effects
which a severe season may have on the roots ; but it should
be carefully raked off again in the Spring.

Bulbous roots in general should be taken up in about a
month or six weeks after the bloom is exhausted; the foliage
or leaves then turn yellow. li'fine warm weather, the bulbs
may be dried on the b^ds they grew on, by placing them in
separate rows, being careful not to mix tlu several varieties
together. To prevent such an accident, labels may be
afftxed to, or placed in the ground opposite each bulb —
they will ke<;p much better for being dried gradually ; to
this end, a little dry earth may be shaken over them, to
screen them from the heat of the sun. If it should rain
before they get dry, take them in, or cover them with
boards ; when dry, clear them of the fibres and stems, and
then put them away in dry sand ; or wrapped in paper, they
may be kept in boxes or drawers until the season of planting
again returns.

The tender Tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, and the
like, will luve to be taken up before the cold becomes se-
vere. As the Dahlia exhibits its flowers in all their splen-
dour until nipped by the frost, the roots ought, in the event
Of a very sudden attack, to be secured from its blighting
effects. They are not apt to keep well, if taken up
before they are ripened ; the tops should therefore, be cut
down as soon as they have done flowering, and the ground

10

182 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS.

covered around the roots, with dung or litter ; this will
enable them to ripen without being injured by frost; and in
about a week after being cut down, or on appearance of
severe weather, they should be dug up and packed in dry
sand, and then stowed away in a dry place out of the reach
of frost. The temperature suited to keep greenhouse plants
will preserve them in good order. Some people complain
of the difficulty of keeping Dahlia roots through theWinter.
I am of opinion that they are often killed from being taken
up before they are ripe, and then put in a confined damp
place ; or are by some, perhaps, subjected to the other ex-
treme, and dried to a husk. I keep mine on shelves in the
greenhouse, and seldom lose one in a hundred. If it be an
object with the cultivator to have the names perpetuated from
year to year, each plant should have a small label affixed to
the old stalk, by means of small brass or copper wire, as
twine is very apt to get rotten.

Cape Bulbs, and such tuberous roots as are cultivated in
pots, on account of their tenderness, should be kept dry
after the foliage is decayed, until within about a month of
their period of regerminating, at which time they should, after
having been deprived of their surplus offsets, be repotted in
good fre«h earth.

There are some descriptions of bulbous and tuberous
roots that need not be taken up oftener than once in two or
three years, and then only to deprive them of the young
offsets, and to manure the ground. These will be described
hereafter under their different heads.

In the articles which follow, I have named the preferable
season for planting the various kinds of bulbous and tuberous
roots ; but as some bulbs will keep in good condition several
months, there can be no objection to retaining such out of
the ground, to suit any particular purpose or convenience.

183
DIRECTIONS

FOR THE

CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED

PLANTS-

AMARYLLISES.

OP this genus of flowering bulbs, there are about eighty
species, and upwards of one hundred varieties ; they are
natives of South America, and in Europe are generally
kept in the hot-house ; some of the varieties are hybrids,
produced by cultivation ; these succeed very well in the
greenhouse, and in this country we frequently have very
perfect flowers in the borders. A few of the choicest
varieties are as follows :

Amaryllis Aulica, or Crowned Amaryllis, is one of the
most beautiful ; it produces four flowers, about seven inches
in diameter, on an erect stem, about two feet and a half
high, with six petals of green, crimson, and fine transparent
red colours.

A. Ballota, produces three or four rich scarlet flowers
on the stem, each about five inches in diameter ; there are
two or three varieties of this species, .all beautiful.

A. Johnsoniensis. The stem of this variety rises about
two feet, and exhibits four beautiful scarlet flowers, with a
white streak in the centre of each petal, each flower about
six inches diameter. It sometimes produce two stems.

A. Longifolia, or Crinum Capense, is perfectly hardy ; it
flowers in large umbels of a pink colour, inclining to white,
and is a good garden variety.

Amaryllis formosissima, or Jacobean Lily, produces a
flower of great beauty ; although a low-priced plant, it
throws out gracefully its glittering crimson-coloured petals,
which have a brilliancy almost too intense for the eye to rest
upon.

The A. Lutea, produces its brighj yellow flowers in

184

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES.

October, in the open air ; but the bulb requires a little pro-
tection in the Winter, or it may perish.

The most suitable soil for Amaryllises is a clean new
earth, taken from under fresh grass sods, mixed with sand
and leaf mould ; the latter ingredient should form about a
third of the whole, and the sand about a sixth. Some of the
varieties may be planted in pots during the month of April,
and others will do very well in the open ground, if planted
early in May, in a sunny situation. The bulb should not
be set more than half its depth in the ground ; as, if planted
too deep, it will not bloom ; the plant deriving its nourish-
ment only from the fibres. When the bulbs have done
flowering, such as are in pots should be watered very
sparingly, so that they may be perfectly ripened, which will
cause them to shoot stronger in the ensuing season, and
those in the ground should be taken up, and preserved
in sand or paper.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES.

These are medium, or half-hardy roots, producing beau-
tiful little flowers of various hues, and are highly deserving
of cultivation. The bulbs should be planted in a fresh, well
pulverized, loamy soil, enriched with cow dung. If planted
in the garden, the beds ought not to be raised above one inch
higher than the alleys, and the surface should be level, as it
is necessary for the prosperity of these plants, rather to
retain than to throw off moisture. The plants will generally
survive our Winters ;but it is always safest to plant them in
such a manner that a temporary frame of boards can be
placed over them when the weather sets in severe ; and if
they are to be shaded while in flower, the posts intended for
the awning may be fixed in the ground at the same time ;
these will serve to nail the boards to, and thus answer two
purposes.

Anemones and Ranunculuses may be planted during
October or November, in drills two inches deep, and six
inches apart ; the roots should be placed claws downwards,

CROCUSES AND CROWN IMPERIAL. 185

about four inches distant from each other, and covered up,
leaving the bed quite level. The awning need not be
erected over the beds until they come into bud, which will
be early in May ; the extreme heat of the American climate
is, however, unfavourable to the perfect developement of
their beautiful blossoms in ordinary seasons, even when
shaded.

CROCUSES.

These are hardy little bulbs, said to be natives of
Switzerland. There are in all about fifty varieties of this
humble, yet beautiful plant, embracing a great variety
of hues and complexions, and their hardiness, and earliness
in flower, offer a strong motive for their cultivation. The
bulbs may be planted in October or November, in rows
about six inches from the edgings ; if in beds, they may be
placed in ranks of distinct colours, about four inches apart,
and from one to two deep, which will afford to their admirers
considerable amusement and gratification, and that at a
very early season. They are generally in full perfection
early in April

CROWJS IMPERIAL.

This is a species of the genus Fritillaria^ of which there
are about twenty species and varieties, chiefly natives of
Persia. These squamose bulbs produce tall luxuriant stems,
embellished with green glossy foliage, and flowers of various
hues ; but there are only a few of the most curious cultivated,
perhaps on account of their odour, which to some persons
is disagreeable. They are, however, very hardy, and
produce singular and showy flowers in April and May,
suited to make variety in the flower borders, in which thev
may be planted in August and September, from three to
four inches deep ; they need not be taken up every year as
other bulbs, and when they are, which may be about every

16*

186 COLCHICUM, CYCLAMEN AND DOUBLE DAHLIA.

third year, they ought not to be retained too long out of the
ground before they are again replanted.

COLCHICUM.

This curious little bulb, being planted in the month
of June, about two inches deep, produces its flowers in
October, it then dies, without leaving any external ap-
pearance of seeds ; they, however, lie buried in the bulb all
the Winter, and in Spring produce a stalk with seeds, which
get ripe by the first of June, just in time to plarit for flowering
in the ensuing Autumn. How wonderful are the provision*
of nature !

CYCLAMEX.

There are several species of the Persian Cyclamen which
are worthy of cultivation in pots ; the vareties, Coum and
Persicum, will bloom in a greenhouse, or warm room, from
January to April, if planted in a good light compost early
in September. The foliage of these plants is of a dark
green velvet colour; and the flowers of the variety Coum
are of a dark crimson colour ; those of the variety Persicum
nre of a delicate French white, tipped with pink, and their
fragrance is similar to that of the wild rose.

DOUBLE DAHLIA.

This may with propriety be denominated one of the most
important perennial tuberous-rooted plants that can be
introduced into a garden, and from the circumstance of its
having become s > fashionable of late years, I have felt
anxious to furnish in this work, a catalogue of all the
choicest varieties attainable ; I therefore applied to Mr. G.
C. Thorburn, who, from a regular correspondence with con-
noisseurs, both in England and America,becomes acquainted

DOUBLE DAHLIA 167

with all the most beautiful ami rare varieties. He ha*
kindly furnished a list and description of about one hun-
dred; including the choicest seedlings of 1833 anvj 1839,
which will be cultivated for the first time in America, in his
garden at Astoria, 1849 ; plants from which will be for sale at
No. 11 John street. To these I have added about two hun-
dred and fifty varieties, most of wh ch I have had under
cultivation in my own garden, and which iiny be justly
denominated pre-eminent.

In making this selection, several superb varieties are
oinittedr not because they are undervalued, but for the sake
of brevity, winch in a work of this kind must be consulted.
Those marked thus f are native American varieties. Those
marked thus * obtained the greatest number of premiums
at the various Floricultural and Horticultural exhibitions in
Great Britain, as well as in our own country. There arc,
perhaps, a hundred more in this catalogue not far beneath
thsm, but none are marked except those which from having
been tested in this climate, can with confidence be recom-
mended as being free and perfect bloomers. The choicest
seedlings of 1833 and 9, and which have been purchased in
England at from fifteen shillings to five pounds sterling each,
are marked thus §. It may be necessary to observe, that
many of our choice old varieties, as well as several of the
new ones hereinafter described, hare not been offered in com-
petition at public exhibitions ; these are, therefore, not to be
undervalued for want of the star or asterisk, and it is pre-
sumed that the brief description given of the different shades,
will be sufficient to govern amateurs in their choice.

As much depends on the climate, soil and situation in which
Dahlias are cultivated ; and as the descriptions which follow
have been given by various persons, in different parts of
England as well as America, whose soils and situations are
different, the height of these plants may vary a foot or more
from our estimate, when planted in one uniform soil and
situation.

188

CATALOGUE

OF

31 A S o

t Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Blocmers. § New Tarietiet. HEIGHT

IN FEET.

* Acme of Perfection, (Harris's*) white, with crimson edge - 4 to 5
Ada Byron, shaded rose, - 4 to 5

* Addison, puce, beautifully shaded with crimson - 4 to 5
Adonis, (Widnalfs,) a free-blooming fringed scarlet - 4 to 5

* Adventure, (Towards,} extra fine purple - 4 to 5

* Agamemnon, (WidnalVs,) rich ruby, crimson, a fine bloomer 5 to 6
^ Alba Elegans, pure white, elegant shaped flower - 4 to 5
§ Alciope, (Girling''s,) fine rosy purple - 4 to 5
Alpha, (Simraomfs,) fine scarlet crimson - 6 to 8
Angelina, white, beautifully edged with lilac - 4 to 5
§ Autiope, (Case's,) beautiful lilac, fine.shape - 5 to 6

* Apollo, (Widnall's,) fine dark scarlet, cupped petals - 4 to 5

* Ariel, (Inwoed's,) white, edged with lilac - 4 to 5

* Aurora, (Maule's,) white, striped with crimson - 4 to 5
Australia, (Foster's) superb shaded crimson - 4 to 5
§ Banks of the Tyne, vivid scarlet - 4 to 5
Battle Rival, bright yellow, large flower - 5 to 6

* Beauty, (Brown's,) exquisite lilac - 4 to 5
Beauty of Bath, (Bartlctt's,') purple and cream striped - 4 to 5

* of Bedford, shaded purple, and crimson - 4 to 5

of Camberwell, rosy lilac, a free-bloomer - 5 to 6

of Cornwall, purple, tipped with white - 6 to 8

of Dulwich, yellow, mottled with brown - 5 to 6

§ of Hyde Vale, maroon, striped with lilac - 4 to 5

* ' of Kingscote, white, tipped with crimson - 3 to 4

of Lullingstone, dark puce, large flower - 4 to 5

* of the North, (Hedley's,) superb purple - 4 to 5

* of Perry Hill, mottled rose and blush - 5 to 6

t of Salem, white, tinted with rosy pink - 4 to 5

* of Waterford, carnation striped • 4 to 5

§ of the WestRiding, (Evans's.) carmine, orange mottled 4 to 5

* Berkshire Champion, crimson maroon, globular shape - 4 to 5

* Bianca, (Lownds's,) white, good form - 4 to 5
Birmingham Victor, (Hodge's,) fine crimson, cupped petals - 4 to 5
t Blandina, good white - 3 to 4

* Bontishall, dark maroon - 5 to 6

* Bowling Green Rival, dark ruby, cupped petals -. - 5 to 6

* Bride of Abydos, white, sometimes tinted with purple . - 5 to 6

DAHLIA CATALOGUE. . 189

f Dtnot«» American Seedling. * Free Bloomert. $ New Varietie*. HEIGHT

IS FEET.

Bride, (Harding's,) white, with purple spots - - 5 to 6

$ British Queen, (King's,) light blush, mottled with blood red 4 to 5

Burgundy, dark velvet maroon, finely cupped - - 5 to 6

* Calliope, extra fine ruby scarlet - - - 5 to 6
Cambridge Hero, (Widnolls,) fine dark maroon - 6 to 7
Camarine, yellow, tipped with red - • 4 to 5
% Candidate, (Smiths,) rich claret, striped with purple - 4 to 5
Cedo Nulli, (Poihtcary's,) yellow, striped with red - - 3 to 4

* Champion of England, rich maroon - - 5 to 6

* Champion, (Jfrells*s.) while, tipped with lilac - 5 to 6
Cheltenham Rival, dark shaded crimson - 5 to 6
Clara, (Seaman's.) superb white - - - 4 to 5

* Cleopatra, extra fine blush white - - - 4 to 5
§ Climax, (Jeffrie's,) dark crimson, finely formed - 4 to 5

* Clio. (Jridnall's,) rich purple, always perfect - 4 to 5
Clio Perfecta, buff, tipped with purple - 5 to 6
" Colossus, (Brown's,) beautiful crimson, extra large flower 5 to 6
t Competitor, (Smith's,) blueish purple, beautiful • 4 to 5
f Comte de Paris, fine canary yellow superb flower - 4 to 5
Conductor, (WidnaWs,} splendid purple - - 3 to 4

* Conqueror of Europe,(E//>/mistoHeV)blush,shadedwithpink 4 to 5
Conqueror, (Gamier1 s.) rich velvet crimson - - 4 to 5
Conqueror (Chandlers,) fine, shaded purple - 5 to 6

* Conservative, (Seaman's ) bright ruby scarlet - 5 to 6
4 Constantino the Great, light chastely variegated - 4 to 5
$ Contender, (Girlings.) fine shaded purple, cupped - 4 to 5
Contender, (Stanford's) rich maroon, crimson margin - 5 to 0
Coronation, (Elliots,) white, laced with purple - 5 to 6

* Coronation, (Elphinstone'f,) beHiitiful rosy pink - 4 to 5

* Corinne, (Broirn's,) white, curiously veined with crimson - 3 to 4

* Coronet superb dark puce, large flower - 4 to 5
Coriolanus, (Dray's,) extra dark crimson - 6 to 7
Countess of Burlington, (Skirting's,) superb white - 3 to 4

of Dunmore, white, with purple tips - 4 to 5

of Liverpool, beautiful shaped scarlet - 6 to 8

* of Mansfield, (Hudson's.) extra fine white - 4 to 5

* of Radnor, mottled lilac, and carmine - 4 to 5

of Sheffield, fine rosy purple - - 6 to 7

of Torrington, blush, edged with lilac - 4 to 5

of VVemyss, peach blossom, edged with purple - 5 to 6

Criterion, (Douglas's,) white, laced with bright lilac - - 5 to 6
Crcesus, yellow, tipped with purple, beautiful whenat perfection 4 to 5

* Daphne, (H'idnalls,) delicate blush - 4 to 5
Defiance", (Haricood's,) fine purple, round cupped petals - 5 to 6
Denniss'i, fine ruby purple - - - - 5 to R

190 DAHLIA CATALOGUE.

t Denotes American Seedlings. * Fr«e Bloomers. § New Varieties. HEIGHT

IN FEIT.

* Desdemona,(5r0Hm's,) white, laced with rose, showy flower 4 to 5
t Diadem, (Dunlap's,) fine bright scarlet - - 4 to 5

* Diadem of Flora, (Girling's,) extra fine ruby scarlet - 5 to 6
Diadem of Perfection, (Taylor's.} rosy crimson, cupped petals 4 to 5
Diana, (Elphin stone's,) beautiful crimson and yellow - 4 to 5
Dictator, ( Wells' s,) extra large scarlet - - - 5 to 6

* Dido, (Young's,) fine rosy lilac - - 4 to 5
$ Diomede, rich maroon and purple, shaded - 4 to 5
$ Donna Anna, (Cook's,) splendid dark rose - - 4 to 5

* Don Carlos, beautiful crimson, fine shaped flower - 4 to 5
Duchess of Bedford, (Widnall's,) bright scarlet - 4 to 5

of Buccleugh, (Cormack's,) sulphur, pink margin - 4 to 5

of Kent, (Mitchell's,) white, edged with lake - 4 to 5

of Montrose, (Drat/'s,) mottled rose, yellow, crimson 4 to 5

* of Portland, (Tillary's,) blush, purple edge - 3 to 4

* • of Richmond, (Elphinstone's,) orange and pink - 4 to 5

* of Sutherland, (SLirving's,) blush, tipped with pink 6 to 7

* Duke of Bedford, (Dennis's,) large crimson maroon - 5 to 6

of Bedford, (Newby's,) dark purple - 6 to 7

t of Richmond, carmine shaded with lilac, (splendid) 4 to 5

t Dwarf Scarlet, (Nealc's,) a prolific and free bloomer - 3 to 4

Earlof Tankerville, extra fine scarlet - - 4 to 5

§ Egyptian King, rose, delicately tipped with bronze - 4 to 5

* Egyptian Prince, fine glossy plum colour - 4 to 5
$ Eliza, (Stanford's,) fine yellow, with red centre * 3 to 4
4 Elizabeth, (Trentfield's,) blush, mottled, edged with crimson 4 to 5
Empress, (Dennis's,) yellow, edged with purple - 5 to 6
England's Defiance, (Miller's,) red and white, striped - 3 to 4

* Essex Rival, (Sorrel's,) fine dark purple - 4 to 5

* Etonia, (Keeler's,) extra fine salmon colour, cupped petals 4 to 5
Euphernea, (Mollmeux's,) extra fine purple - 5 to 6

* Eva, (Foster s,) fine blush white, cupped petals - 3 to 4

* Exemplar, (Widnall's,) extra large white, always perfect - 5 to 6

* Exquisite; (Girling's,) superb salmon colour, cupped petals 5 to 6
§ Fire Ball (SquibVs) vivid scarlet. 4 to 5

* Fisherton Champion (Squibb's) dark crimson 4 to 5

* Formosa (Girling's) fine buff, tipped with rose - 5 to 6
$ Gazelle, white, edged similar to Peach blossom. - 4 to 5
t General Harrison (Bueland Wilson's) fine scarlet. - - 4 to 5

* Glory, (Douglas's) extra large bright scarlet. - 5 to 6
$ Glory of Chieveley, superb scarlet. . 4 to 5
Gloria Mundi, light sulphur yellow. - 4 to 5

* Glory of Plymouth, (Rendle's) white, tipped with purple. - 4 to 5

* Glory of the West, (Dray's) scarlet ball-flower richly cupped. 6 to 7

* Gold Finder, (Dray's) bright primrose yellow, cupped. - 4 to 5

DAHLIA CATALOGUE. . 191

t Dwotet American Seedling. * Fre« Bloomer*. § New Varieties. HEIGHT

IN FECT.

* Golden Sovereign, (Hedley's) superb golden yellow - 5 to 6
§ Grace Darling, or Heroine of the North, light, lavender margin 4 to 5
Grand Falconer, beautiful light crimson. - 5 to 6

* Grandis, extra large, ruby purple - - - - 5 to 6

* Heathergreen Rival, sulphur yellow - - 3 to 4
Helena, (MecketCs) fine blush white "- - - 4 to 5 •

* Helen of Troy, beautiful light rosy blush, perfect form - 4 to 5
f Henry Clay, superb scarlet - - - 4 to 5
Herinione, (Wells'} white, tipped with purple - 6 to 7
Hero, (Foster's) dark red, cupped petals - 4 to 5
§ Hero of Nottingham, maroon, edged with rose - 4 to 5

of Seven Oaks, beautiful rosy crimson - 4 to 5

t of Tippecanoe, (Hancock's} ruby purple - 4 to 5

* of Wakefield, superb rosy crimson - 5 to 6

of Wymbourn, plum colour, fine show flower - 4 to 5

Honourable Mrs. Ashley, -(Brown's) white with blood tip - 3 to 4

Stewart Wortley, fine rosy purple - 3 to 4

*• Hope, (Nevill's) noval rose colour, splendid form - 4 to 5

Horatio, (Smith's) yellow, margined with rosy crimson - 3 to 4

* Horatio. (Widnalls) bright purple, cupped - 5 to 6

* Horticulturist, (Elphinstone's) superb rosy lilac • 4 to 5
Incomparable White, (Wlieder's) pure white - 5 to 6
Independent, (Girling' s) superb yellow - 5 to fi
§ Ingestric Rival, fine lilac, exquisite form - 4 to 5
Innovator, (Wells 's) yellow edged with red, beautiful when perfect 4 to 5
Jealous Wife, yellow, with cupped petals. - 4 to 5
t Jessie Thorburn, (Thorium's) white, edged with pink - 5 to 6
Joan of Arc, (Catleugh's) beautiful pink - 4 to 5
Julia, (Brown's) nankeen colour - 4 to 5

* Julia, (Clarke's") sulphur tipped with crimson - 4 to 5
Juliet, (WidnaWs) fine cupped rose - 4 to 5
Juno, (Girling' s) rich rosy purple - 4 to 5

* Kingscote Rival, beautiful light rose - 5 to fi
King of Beauties, (Elphinstone's) light with crimson edge - 4 to 5
King Otho, ruby rose or lake colour, large flower - 5 to (i

of the Whites, pure white, flowers generally perfect - 4 to 5

of the Yellows, (Elphinstone's') fine cupped petals - 4 to 5

La Carnation, (PawTs) white flaked with rosy crimson - 3 to 4

*Lady Anne, (Hoptcood's~) white, laced with lilac 3 to 4

-Dartmouth, (Widnatt's) white, edged with lilac - - 5 to 6

§ Deacon, clear creamy lemon, veined with rose - 4 to 5

Fordwich, lilac, mottled and striped with blush - 5 to C

King, fine delicate rose - 3 to 4

Kinnaird, (Kidd's) rosy lilac - - 4 to 5

$— Maclean, light ground, crimson margin, superb flower - 4 to £

J92 DAHLIA CATALOGUE

t Denotes American feedlinga. * Free Bloomtrs. § Kew Vaiitti«s. HEIGHT

IN FEET.

Lady Mallet, (Fawcetfs) white, laced with rose - 3 to 4

Molyneux, red, sometimes striped and tipped with white 4 to 5

Northampton, white, tinted with purple - 4 to 5

* Powlet, bright lilac, perfect formed flower - 4 to 5

* Sonde s (Cox's) pale yellow edged with rose - 4 to 5

Webster, extra fine crimson - 4 to 5

§ Wenmaii, light claret, finely cupped - 4 to 5

Lady of the Lake, (Wells' s~) white, tinted with rosy purple • 4 to 5

$ Lancashire Witch, white, edged with purple - 4 to 5

* Lavinia, pure white, edged with lilac - 5 to 6

* Letitia, (Wells'} yellow and brown, fine shape - 3 to 4
§ Lewisham Rival, white, elegantly cupped - - 4 to 5
Liberty, purple plum colour, a free bloomer - 4 to 5
Lilac Perfection, (Harding s) beautiful when at maturity - 5 to (5
$ Lilac Perfection, (Ingrain's) extra fine form and colour - 4 to 5
§ Lilac Unique, a fine flower and perfect bloomer - 4 to 5
Lord Bath, (Wheeler's) large crimson purple - 4 to 5

Byron, (Smith's) fine bright crimson - 5 to 6

Morpeth (Evans's) dark puce, finely cupped - 4 to 5

Russell, bright scarlet ball, a free bloomer - 4 to 5

* Lovely Ann, (Dickerson's) blush white, tinted with lilac - 4 to 5
§ Lucina, (Spencer's) fine lilac, edged with crimson - 4 to 5
*M adonna, (Stanford's) fine rosy lilac - - 4 to 5
Man of Honour, (Harding' s} brilliant rose - - 5 to 6
•Marchioness of Lansdowne, blush, with purple edge - - 4 to 5
Maria Edgeworth, primrose, tipped with rose - 4 to 5

* Marquis of Lothian, (Goodall*) superb rosy crimson - 3 to 4

* of Northampton, (Elphin stone's) mottled ruby - 5 to 6

« Marshal Soult, (Elphinstone's) lilac and red - 3 to 4

§ Marshal Soult, (Steicart's) mottled rose, extra fine - 4 to 5
Mary, (Dodd's) white, laced with rosy lilac, beautiful at maturity 5 to 6

Mary (Wdler's) light purple, cupped - 4 to 5

Mary of Burgundy, (Calleugh's) carmine and white - 4 to 5

* Mary Queen of Scots, white margined with purple - « 5 to 6
§ Masterpiece, (fVilmer's,) white, tipped with lilac - 3 to 4
§ Matchless, (Wetter' s} superb carmine, well-formed flower - 4 to 5

* Mazeppa, (Widnairs.) rich ruby purple - 4 to 5
Medusa, (Wells's ) white and pink, beautifully mottled - 4 to 5
Metropolitan Calypso, splendid rosy blush - 5 to 6
Metropolitan Perfection, dark velvet, crimson ball-flower - 6 to 7

* Metropolitan Yellow, extra fine - 4 to 5

* Middlesex Rival, extra fine, dark purple - • 5 to 6
Miss Broadwood, delicate white • 4 to 5
§ IV! iss Johnston, fine rose, beautiful shape - • 4 to 5

* Miss Scroope, (Hzdley's) fine rose, cupped • 5 to 6

DAHLIA CATALOGUE 193

t Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. $ New Varieties. HEIGHT

IX FEET.

* Miss Wilson, white, tipped with scarlet - 5 to 6
Miss Wortley, lilac and buff - . 4 to 5
§ Model of Perfection, (Neville's) extra dark maroon - 3 to 4
t Mrs. Bucknall, white, delicately edged with lilac - 4 to 5
Mrs. Cullis, (Hodge 's) fine rosy crimson - 4 to 5
Mrs. Davies, (Norman s) white, edged with purple - 4 to 5
t* Mrs. Rushton, (Buist's) blush white, finely cupped - 4 to 5

* Mrs. Wilkinson, extra fine blush" white - - 5 to 6
Muugo Park, (Young's) light crimson - - 4 to 5

* Napoleon (Smith's) dark crimson, excellent formed flower 5 to 6
t* Neale's Golden Fleece, splendid yellow - - 4 to 5
Neil, Dr. (Smiths) dark maroon, free bloomer - 4 to 5

* Ne Plus Ultra, (Widnall's,) fine shaped, purple and crimson 3 to 4
Newick Park Rival, (Slater's.) glossy purple - 4 to 5

* Newick Rival, (ManieWs,) beautiful ruby rose - 5 to 6

* Nimrod, (WidnalVs?) fine dark crimson - - 5 to 6
North Star, bright purple, a superb flower - 5 to 6

* Oliva, (We/Zs'5,) fine yellow, tipped with red - 4 to 5
Osceolus, crimson tipped with white • 4 to 5
Ovid, (Keyne's) bluish purple, beautifully cupped - 4 to 5

* Paragon, (W 'ells' 's) yellow, edged with white - 4 to 5
Peerless White, purest of whites - 5 to 6
Perfection, (Hedley's) first rate dark maroon - 3 to 4
Perfection, (Holman's) white, tipped and striped with lilac 5 to 6
Perfection (IVidnalCs) cupped rosy crimson - 4 to 5
Picta. orange and red, mottled and striped - - 4 to 5

* Picta Magniflora, (Wells's) yellow, edged with red - 3 to 4
"* Picta Perfecta, (Harris's) crimson, shaded with black - 5 to 6
Pink Perfection, compact flower, cupped petals - 4 to 5
Pindarus. (Wells's) yellow, tipped with red - 4 to 5
Pre-eminent, (Barkis) rich rosy crimson - - 4 to 5

* Premier, (Bowman's) beautiful cupped yellow - 3 to 4
t President Van Buren, (Makensie's) bronzy rose - 4 to 5

* President, (Wihner's) dark purple ; well formed - 5 to 6

* Prima Donna, (Squibb's) blush, tinted with rosy lilac . 5 to 6
$ Princess of Beauties, white, shaded with rose - - - 4 to 5

* Princess Victoria, (WidnaWs) white, edged with purple, 3 to 4
Purple Perfection, (E 'I p Inns tone's) fine cupped flower - 6 to 7
$ Purple Unique (4ZZman'*) fine glossy purple - 3 to 4

* Queen of Beauties, (Wells's,*) white, tipped with blood red 5 to 6

* Q,ueen Elizabeth, (Brown's,) mottled purple and white - 6 to 7
§ Queen of lesmond, white, with purple stripes - 4 to 5

of Spain, (Doicning's,) white, laced with purple - 4 to 5

of Trumps, (Elphinstonti '$,) extra fine shaded rose - 4 to 5

17

*

194 DAHLIA CATALOGUE.

t Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. HEIGHT

IN FEET.

Queen Victoria, (Fowler's,} white, laced with purple - 4 to 5

* • Victoria, (Gaines's,) pure white, cupped petals - 4 to 5

Victoria, (Hodge's,) blush, laced with carmine - 4 to 5

* Quilled Perfection, (Brown's,) beautiful shaded crimson - 4 to 5

* Rainbow, (WidnalVs,) purple and crimson shaded - 5 to G
Red Rover, ( Girling"1 s,} dark red, showy flower - 5 to 6

* Reliance, (WidnaWs,} orange, margined with buff - 5 to 6

* Rienzi, (WidnalVs,) crimson and puce, mottled - 4 to 5
Ringleader, (Wilmer's,) beautiful mottled rose - 5 to 6
Rising Sun, (WidnalVs,} large bright scarlet - 6 to 7
§ Rival President, (Elliot's,') dark puce, splendidly formed - 5 to 6

* Rival Purple, ( Taylor's,} extra large flower - - 5 to 6
Rival Queen, white, margined with pink - 4 to 5

* Rival Rose, (Goodwin's,) superb ruby rose, cupped - 3 to 4
Rival Sussex, (Hainan's,) beautiful maroon - - 4 to 5
Rival Sussex, (Stanford's,) fine dark puce - - 4 to 5
Rival Yellow. (Jackson's,) brilliant yellow - - 6 to 7

* Robert Buist, (Young's,) white, laced with purple - 4 to 5
Robert Burt, (Jackson's,) rich dark red - 4 to 5
Robert L' Diable, (Cor mack's,} very dark puceft - 5 to 6
Rose de Amour, (Brewers,} rosy pink, tipped with white - 5 to 6

* Rosa Superba, (Elphinslone"s,} extra fine ruby rose - 5 to 6
Rose of Shannon, (Catleugh's,) splendid rose - 4 to 5
§ Rose Superior, (Girling's,) very splendid perfect flower - 5 to 6

* Rosetta, (Mayhew's,) fine ruby rose - 4 to 5

* Royal Adelaide, or Qem, (Brown's,} white, edged with rose 4 to 5

* Royal Standard, (Whale's,)" rich rosy purple - 6 to 7
Ruby, (Girling's,} mby rose - 5 to 6
Salamander, (Widnalf*,} extra large scarlet - 4 to 5

* Scarlet Perfection, (Etphinslonv's,) unrivalled cupped flower 5 to 6
Scarlet Perfection, (Knight's,) extra rich flower - 4 to 5

* Sir Henry Fletcher, fine rosy crimson - 4 to 5

* Sir John Seabright, (Sailer's,} superb rich crimson - 5 to 6
Splendissima, (Allmarfs.) splendid purple - 5 to 6
§ Springall Conqueror, darkest flower known - 4 to 5
Springfield Rival, (Inwoed's,) fine rosy cupped, crimson - 6 to 7
Springfield Major, (Gain^s,) large dark crimson purple - 6 to 8
Star of Buckland crimson, tipped with white - 4 to 5
Star, (Brown's.) extra fine scarlet t- 5 to 6

* St. Leonard's Rival, bright rosy lilac - 5 to 6

* Striatta Formosisima, (Bates's,) Carnation striped, beautiful 3 to 4
§ Striped Perfection, (Case's,) maroon, striped with purple 4 to 5
Striped Unique, (Girling' s,} orange, striped with scarlet - 5 to 6

* Suffolk Hero, (Girling's,} splendid crimson maroon - 4 to 5

DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 195

t Denotes American Seedling*. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. HEIGHT

IN FEET'

* Sulphurea Elegans, (Jones's,*) sulphur, often tinged with red 5 to 6
Summum Bonum, (Girling's?) purple bronze - 5 to 6

* Sunbury Hero, ( FFiZ/ner's,) yellow, tipped with red - 5 to C

* Surpasse Triumph Royal, durably fine, scarlet ruby - 4 to 5
Sussex Defiance, (Elphinstone's,) chocolate, very rare - 5 to 6

* Sylph, {Widnall'st} white, deeply edged with rose - 4 to 5
Sylvesta, white, sometimes tinted with lilac - - 5 to 6

* Sylvia, (WidnalFs,} pale rose, finely cupped - 4 to 5
Symmetry, (Douglas's.') handsome dark crimson - 4 to 5

* Topaz, (Girling's,) fine golden yellow - 3 to 4

* Tower of Sarum, (Wi/mer's,) rich rosy crimson - 4 to 5
Triumphant, (Jeffrie' '«,) purple, finely cupped - 4 to 5

* Unique, (Ansell's^) light yellow, tipped with red - 4 to 5
Venosa, (Wheeler's,) blush, margined with rosy crimson - 5 to 6

* Victoria Regina, (Harris's) beauti.ul blush - - 4 to f>

* Victory, (Knight's,) rich dark crimson - 5 to 6
Village Maid, white, edged with lilac - 4 to 5
§ Virgin Queen, pure white, finely formed flower - 5 to 6
Viscountess of Beresford, dark crimson, tipped with white - 4 to 5
Warminster Rival, extra bright purple - C to 7
t Washington, white, inclining to blush - - 4 to 5
Waterloo Scarlet (Catleugfi's,) orange scarlet, cupped - 4 to 5

* Wonder, (Green's,'} white, laced with rosy lilac, splendid - 4 to 5

* Wormley Star, (Spier's,") vivid scarlet - 6 to 7
§ Yellow Defiance, ( COOT'S,) splendid flower, the roots of

which were selling "in London, Nov. 1839, at £15 ster-
ling, equal to Sixty-six doltars - - 4 to 5

* Yellow Perfection, (Stone's,) extra fine dark yellow 4 to 5
t Yemassee, (Arnold's,*) crimson maroon, always perfect 4 to 5
§ Yorkshire Hero, splendid ruby rose - 4 to 5

* Zeno, (Elphinst one's,) beautiful purple, blended with white 4 to 5
Zitella, fine rosy pink - 3 to 4

* Zolermio, (Priestley s;) clear deep yellow - 5 to 6

As some amateurs are apt to fancy, that the most econo-
mical method of obtaining a supply of Dahlias in their
gardens, is to raise them from seed, it may be necessary to
remind such, that the trouble and expense of raising any
quantity of seedlings, is equal to that attending the cultiva-
tion of the same number of the choicest varieties'; and
when it is considered that the greatest proportion of a plan-

196 DOUBLE DAHLIA.

tation may be single, and semi-double, and that but fe?r
double-flowering plants can be expected, equal to those
above described, it must appear evident that it is the inte-
rest of such persons as desire to have their gardens unin-
eumbered with plants that are not calculated to ornament
the same, to procure plants or roots of such varieties as
have been tested, and highly recommended, as is the case
with all those described in the preceding catalogue, and
also those which are generally sold by the regular florists.
But as I am writing for young gardeners, it may be neces-
sary to state, that although new varieties are usually raised
from seed of the finest double flowers, some successful pro-
pagators prefer that procured from semi-double varieties.
Sow seed towards the end of February, or early in March,
F in pots, and plunge them in a moderate hot-bed, or seed
may be deposited in the earth of the beds in shallow drills,
and the beds attended to as directed in the calender for
February and March.

Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of Dahlia
roots. In March or April, they will, if properly kept through
the Winter, begin to sprout around the old stems and
tubers. To forward these sprouts in growth, the roots should
be either buried in light earth, on the top of a moderate hot-
bed, or else potted, and then set in a warm room, or green-
house, and watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to
the length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided
in such a manner as to have a good strong shoot attached
to a piece of the tuber, or old stem ; each of these will, if
properly managed, make a plant.* Those who may com-
mence cultivating at an early season, should put the plants
thus separated into small pots, and keep them in a growing
state until about the middle of May, at which time they may
be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and

* In order to obtain an extra number of plants from any choice varieties,
cuttings are frequently taken from the shoots; when about three inches in
length/which are planted in nursery pots, and cultivated in hot-beds: these
require to be shaded from the sun, by mats, for -the first fortnight, after
which they may be gradually inured to the air, and treated as plants raised
in the ordinary way.

DOUBLE DAHLIA. 107

planted in the open borders, from three to four feet from each
other. Let the ground be well pulverized, and enriched
with good old manure, before the plants are set out. If the
top soil be shallow, and the subsoil inferior, it would be
beneficial to the plants, if holes be dug to the depth of from
a foot to eighteen inches, and then replenished with good
rich compost, consisting of two-thirds fresh loam, and one
third of well rotted manure.

Many cultivators have found late planting to suit better
than «arly, and I myself have had more perfect flowers,
from plants set out about the middle of June, than from
those planted in May : this is easily accounted for. In July
and August the weather is generally hot, which brings
the forvvardest plants into bud at an early season, and
in the event of a continuation of hot dry weather, such
buds fail to produce perfect flowers ; whereas those plants
which are set out late, keep growing through the hot
weather, and produce their buds just in time to receive all
the benefit of the Autumnal rains. From a consideration of
these circumstances, I think early in June the safest time to
set out Dahlia plants ; and if those persons who have no con-
venience of forcing their roots, set them out in May, in
ground prepared as before directed, they will generally suc-
ceed very well, provided they take care to cover them incase
of a cold change of weather. The roots may be thus cul-
tivated entire, as is frequently done ; but if it be desired to
have them parted, this business can be easily accomplished
without disturbing the roots, and the offsets ma'y be planted
in the ground seperately or potted.

Previous to sotting out the plants, it will be necessary to
provide for their preservation through the varied changes of
the season, or a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expec-
tations of a year. The branches of the Dahlia are extremely
brittle, and, therefore, a good stout pole, or neat stake, should
be driven down near each root, of a suitable height, so that
the branches as they progress in growth, may be tied thereto
at every joint, which may be done with shreds of matting or
twine. Ifthe poles bain readiness, they are much more easily-
fixed at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterwards ; but

17*

198 GLADIOLUS, CORN FLAG, OR SWORD LILY.

it may be done at any time after the ground has been soft-
ened by rain, provided it be not delayed too long, so as to
subject the plants to risk. Sometimes a few forward buds
of the Dahlias will exhibit their premature beauties to the
beams of a July and August sun ; but their lustre is quickly
dimmed* The latter end of September, sometimes all Oc-
tober, and part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its
glory ; and dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes
blossom at Christmas ; but they require more than ordinary
care, at a late period of their growth.

GLADIOLUS, CORN:FLAG, OR SWORD LILY.

Of this genus of bulbs there are about fifty species, natives
of the Cape of Good Hope. They produce flowers of
various colours, in August and September, and are well
worthy the attention of those who cultivate tender exotic
plants. They may be planted in September or October,
about an inch deep in pots, which must be kept in a green-
house or light room, and watered sparingly until they begin
to grow. The following are known to be superb species
and varieties :

G. alatus, or Wing-Flowered, producing bright orange
coloured flowers.

G. blandus produces flowers of a beautiful blush rose
colour.

G. Byzantinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate
purple ilowers.

G. cardinalis. This variety produces very large flowers
of superb scarlet, spotted with white.

G. floribundus, or cluster flower, produces large flowers,
of white and pink colour.

The Gladiolus Natalensis, or Psitacinna, is perhaps the
most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blossoms freely*
and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. In its progress of
blooming, it exhibits variable colours, as vermilion, red
yellow, green, white, crknson, &c., which brighten, as

HYACINTH. 199

the flower arrives at perfection, to the brilliancy of a rain-
bow. Another good quality displays itself in the bulb,
which, if properly managed, will yield an abundance of
offsets ; these being cultivated, will flower the third year in
perfection, and thus continue to multiply perpetually.

I have named September and October as the season for
planting, because it is considered the preferable season for
most bulbs ; but if these be preserved in good condition
through the Winter until early in April, and then planted in
a soil consisting of about one half fresh loam, equal parts
of leaf mould, and sand well mixed, they may be forwarded
in a warm room, green-house, or moderate hot-bed, until
settled warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into
a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at
noonday ; this will induce each of them to throw up three
or four stems from three to four feet high, each stem pro-
ducing five or six gorgeous blossoms, in great perfection.
Those planted in the Autumn or Winter, may also be turned
out of the pots in June; and, from.; the fibres having taken
substantial root in the soil before transplanting, such plants
may be taken up again in August, or early in September ;
.and on being planted in large pots, they maybe removed,
so as to perfect their bloom, within view of the parlour or
sitting-room, which will afford considerable amusement and
gratification.

HYACINTH.

u Hail to thee ! hail, thou lovely flower!
Still shed around thy sweet perfume,
Still smile amid the Wintry hour,
And boast e'en then a Spring-tide bloom.
Thus hope, 'mid life's severest days,
Still smiles, still triumphs o'er despair;
Alike she lives in pleasure's rays,
And cold affliction's Winter air."

There are, as has been already stated, about thirteen
hundred varieties of this family of plants, comprising all the
various hues, as- white, pink, red, yellow, blue, purple,

300 IRK, OR FLOWER DE LUCE,

crimson, &c. and some of those with various coloured eyes.
They begin to produce their flowers in the open borders
early in April, on short erect stems covered with florets or
small bells ; each floret is well filled with petals rising
towards the centre, and is suspended from the stem by short
strong footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and the upper-
most florets stand so erect as to form a pyramid. A planta-
tion, or a bed of these, have a very beautiful appearance, pro-
vided they are well attended to. In planting them, which
should be in the months of October or November, care should
b« taken to have the colours so diversified as to suit the fancy ;
they may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight
inches apart, and from three to four inches deep, measuring
from ill -3 top of the bulb, and covered up at the setting in of
Winter, as before recommended for bulbs in general.

Those who may have a fine collection, should have an
awning erected in the Spring, to screen them from the
chilling blast, and also from drenching rains and the noon-
day sun ; and they should be looked over as soon as they
make their appearance above ground, to see if they are all
perfect and regular; if faulty or inferior bulbs should appear
to have been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by
accident or mistake, they can be taken out, and by short-
ening the rows, others may be substituted with a trowel.
When all are regulated, look over them frequently, and as
the stems shoot up, tie them to wires, or small rods, with
shreds of bass matting or thread, being careful not to injure
the florets. In about six weeks after they have done flower-
ing, the bulbs may be taken up, and managed as recommen-
ded for bulbs in general, in a former page.

IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE.

There are two distinct species of plants cultivated under
the name of Flower de Luce, each consisting of several
varieties. The bulbous species and varieties are designated
as English, Spanish, Chalcedonian, and American. These,

IXIAS — JONQUILS. 201

if introduced into the flower borders, and intermixed with
perennial plants of variable colours, have a very pretty
appearance when planted in clumps or patches. This may
be done in the month of October, by taking out a spadeful
of earth from each place alloted for a plant, and then
inserting three or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the
ground be poor, some rich compost may be dug in around
the spot before the bulbs are planted, and if several sorts be
planted in the same border, let them be of various colours.
The tuberous-ropted are of various colours, as blue,
yellow, brown, and spotted ; they are easily cultivated, and
flower freely in a loose soil inclining to moisture, if planted
in March or April.

IXIAS.

These are tender, but very free-flowering bulbs, producing
on their stems, which vary in height from six^inches to two
feet, very delicate flowers of various colours, as orange,"
blush, white, purple, green, crimson, scarlet, and some have
two and three colours connected in the same plant.

There are, in all, upwards of twenty species, which may
be cultivated in the green-house, by planting the bulbs
in pots in September or October, and placing them near
the light, and then watering them sparingly until they
begin to shoot.

, JONQUILS.

This is a hardy race of bulbs, and produces very delicate
yellow flowers early in May. There are different varieties,
some of which are single-flowering, and others double.
Their fragrance is very grateful, being similar to that of
Jasmines. The bulbs may be planted about two inches
deep in the flower borders, or in pots, in October, or before
the setting in of Winter ; they flower better the second year
than in the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and
replanted oftener than once in three years.

202 LACHENALIAS — LILIES.

LACHENALIAS.

These are tender little bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good
Hope. There are supposed to be in all about forty species
and varieties. Those most cultivated with us, are the
Lachenalia quadri-color, and L. tri- color ^ which are
very beautiful when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of
various colours on a stem of from six inches to a foot in
height, and much in the character of Hyacinths. The
colours which are yellow, scarlet, orange, green, &c., are
very pure arid distinct. L. nervosa, L. orchoides, L. punc-
tata, and L. rubida, are all excellent species, and worthy of
cultivation. They may be planted from one to two inches
deep, in small pots, in the month of August and September,
arid watered but sparingly until they begin to grow.

LILIES.

There are several plants under this name, of ^different
genera, some of which are indigenous. The Canada Lily,
with yellow spotted drooping flowers, may be seen in wet
meadows towards the last of June, and early in July. The
Philadelphia Lily blooms also in July ; its flowers are red.
There are some pure white, and others yellow, growing in
various parts of the country. Among the foreign genera
are several species. Of the Martagon, or Turk's-cap Lilies,
there are some beautiful varieties ; as the Caligula, which
produces scarlet flowers ; and there is one called the Crown
of Tunis, of purple colour ; besides these, are the Double
Violet Flamed, the White, the Orange, and the Spotted ;
these are all hardy, and may be planted in various parts of
the garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then,
after manuring and pulverizing it, the bulbs may be planted
therein before the setting in of Winter, at different depths,
from two to four inches, according to the size of the bulbs*.
Some of the Chinese varieties are very beautiful, as the
Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the dwarf red Lilium con

NARCISSUS. — 203

tolour. There are others with elegant silver stripes, which
are very showy, and there is one called Lilium superbum,
that has been known to have had twenty-five flowers on a
stalk.

Besides those above enumerated} there are some others
which are generally cultivated in greenhouses, as the Calla,
or Ethiopian Lily ; and the following which have been
known to endure our Winters, by protecting them with
dung, &c. Lilium longiflorum, in two varieties ; these pro-
duce on their stalks, which grow from twelve to eighteen
inches high, beautiful rose-coloured flowers, streaked with
white, which are very sweet-scented. These roots are
sometimes kept out of the ground until Spring, and then
planted in the flower borders, but they should be preserved
carefully in sand, or dry mould. Lilium Japonicum. Of
these there are two varieties, which produce several stalks at
once, yielding very showy flowers. One of the varieties is
blue flowered, and the other produces flowers of the purest
white.

NARCISSUS.

The species and varieties of this plant are numerous.
The Incomparable is perfectly hardy, and produces its
flowers in April, which are called by some pasche, or pans
flowers, by others, butter and eggs ; perhaps because their
bright yellow petals are surrounded whith large white ones.
Some persons dislike the smell of these, and it is said that
the odour has a pernicious effect upon the nerves; but the
white fragrant double, as well as the Roman and Poly-
anthus Narcissus, are free from this objection, being of a
very grateful and agreeable smell. Some of these are justly
• held in great esteem for their earliness, as well as for their
varied colours. The Grand Monarque de France, the Belle
Legoise, and some others, have white flowers with yellow
cups. The Glorieux has a yellow ground, with orange-
coloured cups ; besides these are some white and citron-
coloured, as the Luna, and others entirely white, as the

204 ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OP BETHLEHEM.

Rein Blanche, and Morgenster. All these varieties are very
suitable either for the parlour or greenhouse, and may be
planted in pots, from October to December, from two to three
inches deep. The double Roman Narcissus are very sweet-
scented ; if these be planted in pots, or put into bulb glasses
in the month of October, they will flower in January and
February.

Polyanthus Narcissus are more delicate than Hyacinths
or Tulips ; when they are planted in the open border, they
should be covered about four inches with earth, and before
the setting in of Winter, it is advisable to cover the beds
with straw, leaves, or litter,' to the depth of six or seven
inches, and to uncover them about the middle of March.

ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM.

There are about fifty varieties of these bulbs, natives of

the Cape of Good Hope, some of which are from three to

five inches in diameter, and shaped similar to a pear ;

others are much like Hyacinth bulbs. — Among those culti*

fated in America are the O. lacteum and the O. aureum ;

the former produces fine white flowers, and the spike is

about a foot in length ; the latter produces flowers of a

golden colour, in contracted racemose corymbs. The

O. maritimum, or Sea Squill, is curious ; from the centre of

the root arise several shining glaucous leaves, a foot long,

two inches broad at the base, and narrowing to a point. If

kept in a greenhouse, these are green during Winter, and

decay in the Spring : then the flower-stalk comes up rising

two feet, naked half way, and terminated by a pyramidal

thyrse of white flowers.

These bulbs are generally cultivated in the greenhouse,
and require a compost consisting of about one-half fresh
loam, one-third leaf mould, and the remainder sand, in
which they may be planted in September. When cultiva-
ted in the garden, they should be planted four or five inches
deep, and protected with dung, &c. They produce their
flowers early in June*

OXALIS— P.EONY. 205

OXALIS.

The Oxalis is a native of the Cape of Good Hope ; the
species are numerous, and their roots are very small bulbs,
articulated, jointed, or granulated, in a manner peculiar
to this genus. They produce curious flowers of various
hues, yellow, purple, rose, red, white, striped, vermilion
colour, <fcc. The bulbs should be planted in very small
pots in August and September, in a compost, consisting of
about two-thirds loam, and one-third leaf or light mould,
and treated in the same manner as other Cape Bulbs.
They increase in a peculiar manner, by the parent bulb
striking a fibre down from its base, at the extremity of which
is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the old
one perishing. These plants wtll flower freely in a green-
house.

*' Pceonia round each fiery ring unfurls,

Bares to the noon's bright blaze her sanguine curls."

Of this genus of splendid plants there are known to be
about twenty species, and as many varieties. It is said
that tbe Paonia officinalis rnbra, or common double red
Pceony, was introduced into Antwerp upwards of two centu-
ries ago, at which time it was sold at an enoimous price. It
has since been highly esteemed in Europe and America,
and is to be fou'id in all well-established gardens, exhibiting
its vivid crimson petals early in June. Many superb species
have -of lute years been brought from China, a few of which
may be noticed, with some others which are in very great
repute.

PcBonia alba Chinensis is one of the finest of the herba-
ceous sorts. The flowers are white, tinged with pink at
the bottom of the petals.

P. edulis whitliji has also white flowers, which are very
large and splendid.

P. edu7i$ fragrans, is a fine large double scarlet variety,
and produces flowers perfumed like the rdse.

18

206 TULIP.

P. humei has b3aiitiful large double dark blush -coloured
flowers.

P. paradoxa fimbriata, produces fringed double red
flowers, which are very beautiful.

These are all hardy, and may be planted about four
inches deep in the garden, in October or November. The
flowers exhibit themselves to the best advantage, when
planted on a bed that is elevated, and of a circular form.

The following are half hardy and half shrubby ; these
have been known to survive the Winter by being well pro-
tected, but are kept much better in a greenhouse ; and thej
also exhibit their flowers to greater advantage than when
exposed to the full sun.

P. moutan Banksii, or Tree Paeony, produces very large
double blush flowers in abundance, with feathered edges to
every petal. This variety is highly deserving of cultivation.

P. moutan rosea is a fine rose-coloured double variety,
and produces very splendid flowers.

P. moutan papaveraeea produces very large white flowers,
with pink centres. This splendid variety frequently bears
flowers from nine to eleven inches in diameter.

Besides the above, are several others of various colours,
some of which are semi double.

TULIP.

'* For brilliant tints to charm the eyo.
What plant can with the TULIP vie?
Yet no delicious scent it yields
To cheer the garden, or the fields ;
Vainly in gaudy colours drest,
"Tis rather gazed on than caressed."

The Tulip is a native of the Levant, and has been in
cultivation nearly three centuries. It may be justly entitled
the King of Flowers, for the brilliancy and endless com-
bination of all colours and shades. The varieties of the
Tulip are very numerous, and are divided into different
classes. Those cultivated in regular beds by amateurs are
rose-coloured, bybloemen and bizarres. There are a great

TULIP. 207

many beautiful varieties, denominated Parrot Tulips, which
have notched petals, and striped or diversified with green ;
and also some very dwarfish kinds, both single and double,
which are generally cultivated in parlours and greenhouses.

Mr. T. Hogg, of Paddington, near London, has pub-
lished a work, entitled, " A Treatise on the Cultivation of
Florists' Flowers," which comprises the Tulip, Carnation,
Auricula. Ranunculus, Polyanthus, Dahlia, German and
China Asters, Seedling Heartsease, and New Annuals. In
that work, which is dedicated to Queen Adelaide, the author
remarks that the cultivation of the Tulip is one of the most
fascinating and pleasing pursuits imaginable, and that when
the " Tulip mania has fairly got hold of any one, it sticks
to him like the skin on his back, and remains with him the
rest of his life." He instances a Mr. Davey, of Chelsea,
as being in his seventy-fifth year, and in whose breast the
fancy for Tulips was so predominant, that in the Autumn of
1832, he was induced to part with a hundred sovereigns for
one single 'Tulip, named "Miss Fanny Remble." Perhaps
a better definition of what constitutes the properties of a
good Tulip, conld not^be given than a description of this
precious gem, or " loveliest of all Tulips ;" but, lest my
readers should conclude that the old gentleman was in his
dotage, I would inform them that this favorite bulb was
purchased of the executors of the late Mr. Clarke, with
whom it originated, and that it had not only been the pet of
its late owner, but had excited the envy and admiration of
all the amateurs who went to view it.

" This precious gem, a bybloemen Tulip, was raised from
one of Mr. Clarke's seedling breeders, and broke into colour
three years ago; it has produced two offsets since, and is
adapted to the second or third row in the bed ; tlie stem is
firm and elastic ; the foliage full and broad, of a lively
green ; the cup large, and of the finest form ; the white
pure and wholly free from stain ; the pencilling on the
petals is beautifully marked with black or dark purple, and
the feathering uniform and elegant; it preserves its shape
to the last, the outer leaves not sinking from the inner ; in
a word, it is considered the first flower of its cast, and the
best that has ever been produced in England."

208

TULIP.

The article in the work already alluded to, on the culti-
vation of Tulips alone, occupies ninety. six pages ; I,
therefore, cannot attempt any thing more than an abridge-
ment of the author's ideas on some important points.
Those of my readers who may desire full information, are
referred to the work itself, which may be obtained of Mr.
G. C. Thorburn.

The following description may serve to govern the choice
of amateurs : Tulips exhibited at the shows, are, in general,
classed and distinguished as follows : Flamed Bizarrts,
Feathered Bizarres, Flamed Bybloemms, Feathered Ky-
bloemenSi Flamed Roses, Feathered Roses, and Sclfs, or
plain-coloured.

A Bizane Tulip has a yellow ground, marked with
purple or scarlet of different shades ; it is called flamed
when a Broad or irregular stripe runs up the middle of the
petals, with short abrupt projecting points, branching out
on each side , fine narrow lines, called arched and ribbed
often extend, also, from this broad side to the extremity
of the leaves ; the colour generally appearing strongest in
the inside petals; a Tulip, with this broad coloured stripe,
which is sometimes called beamed or splashed, is, at the
same time, frequently feathered also.

It is called feathered when it is without this broad stripe ;
but yet it may have some narrow lines, joined or detached,
running up the centre of the leaf, sometimes branching out
and carved towards the top, and sometimes without any
spot or line at all ; the petals are feathered more or less
round the edges or margin inside and out, the pencilling or
feathering is heavy or broad in some, and light or narrow
in others, sometimes with breaks or gaps, and sometimes
close- and continued all round.

A Byblocmen Tulip has a white ground, lined, marked,
striped or variegated with violet or purple, only of various
shades ; and whether feathered or flamed, is distinguished
by the same characters and marks which are pointed out
and applied to the Bizarred Tulips.

A Rose, Tulip is marked or variegated with rose, scarlet,
crimson or cherry colour, on a white ground ; and the

TULIPS. 209

Feathered Rose is to be distinguished from the Flamed bj
the same rules as described before; the Rose is very often
both feathered and flamed.

A Self, or plain-coloured Tulip, properly so called, is
either white or yellow, and admits of no further change ;
other plain-coloured Tulips, whether red or purple, are
called breeders, and are hardly worthy of being exhibited.
Mr. Hogg informs us, that £100, say $500, judiciously
expended at the present time, will give a moderate sized
bed, that shall contain the greater part of the finest varieties
grown ; such a bed as £250 would not have purchased
twelve orfourleen years ago.

To describe minutely the mode of planting a regular bed
of Tulips would exceed our limits ; suffice it to state that
the name of every bulb should be written in a book, and
that they should be so classed as to have the varied colours
to show advantageously; to this end, the tallest should be
allotted for -the middle of the bed, and others in regular
gradations, so as to have the most dwarfish on the sides.
The bulbs must be covered with good mould, to the depth
of three inches from the top of the bulb on the sides of the
bed, and about four inches in the middle. Let a small
spoonful of clean drift sand be used around each bulb, and
see that the bed be left sufficiently round from the middle
to the edges. The beginner must understand that no un-
sightly tallies, or -number sticks, are to distinguish the
Tulips ; but that he must adopt a sort of ground plan, divi-
ding the whole bed into rows of seven bulbs across ; for
example, take and write down the names and places of the
Tulips in the first row, and continue the same form all
through to the other end of the bed.

Row 1st.

No. 1. Fenelon, ------ this is a Bybloemen..

2. Duchess of Clarence, - - Rose-coloured.

3. Charlemagne, .... Bybloemen.

4. Louis the Sixteenth, - - Bybloemen.

5. Memnon, ------ Bizarre.

6.. Volney, Bybloemen.

7. Lady Crewe, .... Rose-coloured.

18*

210 TUBEROSE.

Good fresh loam, taken from under healihy grass sods, 13
the most suitable soil for Tulips to grow in ; under \vhich
should be buried, to the depth of a foot, about two inches
thickness of well rotted cow or horse droppings. The reason
for placing the dung so low is, that the fibres may get down
to it, (which they will do,) and that the bulbs may not
be injured by it, as is apt to be the case if too much dung is
used around them. The best time for planting the bulbs, is
early in November, and the beds should be made a forf night
previous, in order that the earth may become sufficiently
settled.

If severe frosts set in, after the Tulips show themselves
above ground in the Spring, some protection should be
given ; single mats placed over hoop bends answer very
well ; and at the time of blooming, an awning should be
erected over them, sufficient to screen the Tulips from the
intense heat of the sun, which awning should be sufficiently
spacious to admit of persons walking under it, to view the
beautiful flowers to the greatest possible advantage.

TUBEROSE.

This fragrant and delightful flower has been cultivated in
English flower gardens for upwards of two centuries ; there
the bulbs are generally cultivated in pots early in the Spring,
and transferred to the flower borders as soon as it becomes
settled warm weather ; for they are very tender. They
generally succeed very well here, if planted at once in the
open borders towards the end of April, and produce flowers
which are pure white, and highly odoriferous, on a stem
from three to four feet high.

The bulbs produce a number of offsets, which should be
preserved with the parent plants through the Winter, and
then parted oft" and planted by themselves in April or early
in May, to produce flowering roots for the ensuing year.
These roots thrive best in a light rich soil, well pulverised,
in which they should be planted about two inches deep, not
forgetting to take them up again before the approach of
Winter.

211
TIGER FLOWER

Perhaps there is no flower treated of in this work, that i*
more beautiful than some of the species of the geniia
Tigridia. Like all Mexican bulbs, these are tender, and
should either be cultivated in the greenhouse, or carefully
preserved until settled warm weather, and then planted in
good light soil, in a sheltered situation. A bed of these
beautiful flowers would afford as much gratification to some,
amateurs as a bed of Tulips.

The Tigridia conchiflorais of a rich yellow colour, tinged
and spotted with white and crimson ; the colours are very
vivid and finely contrasted. The Tigridia pavonia is of
the brightest scarlet, tinged and spotted with brilliant yellow.
The corolla which is about four inches in diameter, is com-
posed of six petals ; the outer petals are thrown backward,
and exhibit the blossom in all its splendour, which exists
only a single day ; but as if to co.mpensate for its transient
visit, each plant will produce numerous flowers; and where
a bed of them can be collected, they will amuse their admi-
rers for several weeks from July to September. In such a
case, the bulbs may be planted about two inches deep ; say
nine by fifteen inches apart, towards the end of April
or early in May, and taken up again in October, to preserve
for planting the ensuing year.

212
OBSERVATIONS

ON THH

CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS,

IN POTS OR GLASSES, IN THE WINTER SEASON.

THR culture of bulbous roots in a greenhouse, or light
room, during the Winter, is comparatively easy, provided two
points be attended to; the first is to keep them near the light,
and to turn the pots or glasses round frequently, to prevent
their growing crouded ; and the second is, when the plants
have done growing, to give them little or no water;
for want of attention to these points, bulbs have been known
to produce foliage, year after year, without showing any
•ign of blossoms.

All bulbs have a certain period of the year in which they
are in a dormant state; this, in a state of nature, is invariably
after the seeds are ripened ; but as in a greenhouse, many of
this family do not ripen seeds, the cultivator should watch
the period when the leaves show indications of decay ; at
which time, the supplies of water should be lessened, and
shortly afterwards the earth should be suffered to get dry and
to remain so until the season returns, when the bulbs reger-
rainate.

Many sorts of bulbs are best kept in pots, under the soil,
in a dry shady place, and in the same temperature as that
in which they are in the habit of growing; but others, such
as the Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus, &c. may be taken out of
the soil, and preserved as before directed, until the proper
Reason for replanting.

Dutch bulbous roots intended for blooming in pots during
the Winter season, should be planted during the months of
October and November, and be left exposed to the open air
until it begins to freeze ; and then be placed in the green-
house, or in a room where a fire is usually made. They

CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS. 213

will need moderate occasional waterings, until they begin to
grow ; then they should have abundance of air in mild
weather, and plenty of water from the saucers nnderrfeath
the pots, whilst in a growing state ; and should be exposed
as much as posible to the sun, air, and light, to prevent the
foliage from growing too long, or becoming yellow.

For this purpose, single Hyacinths, and such as are
designated earliest among the double, are to be preferred.
Single Hyacinths are by some held in less estimation than
doubJe ones, their colours, however, are more vivid, and
their bells, though smaller, are more numerous ; some of
the finer sorts are exquisitely beautiful ; they are preferable
for flowering in Winter to most of the double ones, as they
bloom two or three weeks earlier, and are very sweet scented.
Roman Narcissus, double Jonquils, Polyanthus Narcissus,
double Narcissus, and Crocuses, also make a fine appear-
ance in the parlour during Winter. It is a remarkable
circumstance of the Crocus, that it keeps its petals expan-
ded during tolerably bright candle or lamp light, in the same
manner as it does during the light of the sun. If the candle
be removed, the Crocuses close their petals, as they do in a
garden when a cloud obscures the sun ; and when the
artificial light is restored, they open again, as they do with
the return of the direct solar rays.

Hyacinths and other bulbs intended for glasses, should be
placed in them about the middle of November, the glasses
being previously filled with pure water, so that the bottom
of the bulb may ju^t touch the water ; then place them for
the first ten days in a dark room to promote the shooting of
the roots ; after which expose them to the light and sun as
much as possible ; they will blossom without the aid of the
sun ; but the colours of the flowers will be inferior. The
water should be changed as often as it becomes impure ;
draw the roots entirely out of the glasses, rinse the fibres in
clean water, and also the glasses inside ; care should be
taken not to suffer the water to freeze, as it not only bursts
the glasses, but often causes the fibres to decay. Whether
the water be hard or soft, is of no great consequence ; but
soft, or rain water, is generally preferred, and it must b«
perfectly clear.

214 CULTURE OP BULBOUS ROOTS IN KOOMS.

Forced bulbs are seldom good for any thing afterwards ;
however, those who wish to preserve them, may immerse
them wholly in water for a few days ; and then having
taken them out, and dried them in the shade for a short time,
they m.iy ba planted in a good soil, which will sometimes
<rause them to flower the second year. It does not clearly
appear in what way the water operates when the bulb ig
wholly immersed ; but it is certain that bulbs so treated
increase in size and solidity, and have an incomparably
better chance of flowering the second year, than those which
have not been so treated ; most probably their total immer-
sion enables them to obtain a greater proportion of oxygen
from the water.

Nosegays should have the water in which their ends arc
inserted changed, on the same principle as bulbous roots ;
and a much faded nosegay, or one dried up, may often b&
recovered for a time, by covering it with a glass bell, or cup,
or by substituting warm water for cold.

Very fine Hyacinths have been grown in a drawing-room,
in the following novel manner. A quantity of moss, classi-
cally called liypnum, and vulgarly fog, was placed in a
water-tight box, about eight or nine inches deep, into which
the bulbs were placed at the end of September, without
mould and duly watered ; the result of this experiment
was highly favourable.

2)5
OBSERVATIONS

ON

THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT

OF

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

Having already exceeded my limits, I am compelled to
l>e brief in my observations on such ornamental plants as
are generally cultivated in hot and greenhouses. This
description of plants embraces those which are collected from
yarious climates, and thrive best in a temperature and soil
similar to that in which nature first produced them : henoe
they who propagate exotic plants, must provide s- [table
composts, and also separate departments, where the differ-
ent degrees of heat may be kept up according to their
nature and description. Some of these are raised from seed
•own in the Spring, others by layers, suckers, and offsets
detached from the old plants, and many by slips or cuttings,
planted at different seasons of the year, according to their
various natures and state of the plants. Many kinds require
the aid of glass coverings and bottom heat, created by fresh
horse-dung, tan, &c. See calendar and index.

Were I to attempt to give directions for the propagation
of all the varieties of useful and ornamental exotic plants
cultivated in various parts of our country, it would require
several volumes. The catalogue of greenhouse plants
alone, kept by the enterprising proprietor of the Linnean
Botanic Garden at Flushing, occupies fifty pages of close
matter; it would, therefore, be impossible to do justice to
the subject without dividing upwards of two thousand
species of plants into classes, and treating of them under
distinct heads ; I shall, therefore, not attempt in this edition
to write largely on the subject.

In order to render this little work useful to those who

MANAGEMENT OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

may wish to avail themselves of the pleasure of nursing
some of those beauties of nature in dwelling or green*
houses, during the most chilling days of our severe Winters,
and to afford amusement to the Ladies at a season when our
gardens are deprived of their loveliest charms, I shall notice
some essential points connected with the management of
greenhouse plants, in as explicit a manner as possible, and
subjoin a brief catalogue of such species as are most gene-
rally cultivated, of which there are innumerable varieties;
descriptions of which, with all the varied features of the
floral kingdom, may be found in the voluminous works of
Loudon, Sweet, Chandler, and other English writers.*

The following hints which were selected for the first
edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant, appear to the
author to embrace the most important points connected with
the care of plants in the Winter season.

The generality of those denominated greenhouse plants,
and which are kept in rooms, should be placed where they
can have the light of the sun, without being exposed to
frost. Air, heat, and moisture are essential to the growth
of plants ; but these should be given in due proportions,

* All the most popular English books on this subject, are imported
by G. C. Thorburn, No. 11 John Street; amongst which are the
following :

"London's Encyclopaedia of Plants," illustrated by engravings and
with figures of nearly ten thousand species, exemplifying several indi-
viduals belonging to every genus included in the work. Completed in
one large volume, 8vo. " - $20,00

•'Loudon's Encyclopaedia of Gardening," comprising the Theory and
Practice of Horticulture, Floriculture, Arboriculture and Landscape
Gardening; including all the latest improvements. A new edition in
one large volume, 8vo. closely printed, with upwards of 700 engra-
vings, - - ^32,00

" Chandler (of London) on the Camellia; containing ample directions
for the cultivation of this fine plant, with a superb plate of all the present
known varieties in England.; one volume, 4to. - - $45,00

"Horlus Brittanicus;" a Catalogue of Plants cultivated in the
gardens of Great Britain, arranged in natural orders, $3,00

"The British Flower Garden;" containing coloured figures, and
descriptions of all the most ornamental and curious plants; with their
scientific and English names ; best method of cultivation -end propaga-
tion : the heights they generally attain ; or any other information res-
pecting them, that may be considered useful or interesting, by R.
Sweet, F L. 3. &c.. the drawings by E. D. Smith, F. L. S. in 5 volumes,
8vo. calf, and continued in monthly numbers. — A splendid work, $100

MANAGEMENT OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 217

according to circumstances. In frosty weather they should
be kept from the external air, and watered very sparingly.
When water is necessary, it should be applied in the morn-
ing of a mild sunny day. The plants should be kept free
from decayed leaves, and the earth at the top of the pots
should be sometimes loosened to a moderate depth, and
replenished with a portion of fresh compost.

Plants kept in private houses are often killed with kind-
ness. The temperature of a room in the Winter, need not
be more than ten degrees above freezing. If plants are
healthy they may be kept so by attention to the preceding
hints ; unhealthiness generally arises from their being
subjected to the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture, or from
total neglect.

In order that the ideas above advanced may be duly
considered, it may be useful to indulge in a more minute
description of the nature of plants, and to show in what
manner the elements operate upon them. It is an acknow-
ledged fact, that the roots of plants require moisture, and
therefore penetrate the earth in search of it, and that the
plants themselves are greatly nourished by air, and spread
their branches and leaves to catch as much as possible its
enlivening influence. Light also is so far essential, that
there can be no colour without it ; witness the blanching of
celery and endive, where the parts deprived of light become
white ; place a plant in almost any situation, it will invari-
ably show a tendency to turn to the light ; the sunflower is
a striking example of this singular fact. As the leaves
supply the plant with air, and the fibres of the roots with
nourishment, to strip oft* the leaves or destroy the fibres, is
to deprive it of part of its means of support.

Having shown that air and water are essential to vegeta-
tion, and light to its colour, experience shows us that hear,
in a greater or less degree, is not less necessary to the growth
of plants ; it is therefore requisite, that in taking plants into
our rooms, we should attend to these particulars.

The internal structure of plants is composed of minute
and imperceptible pores, which serve the same important
purpose in the vegetable as veins in the animal system ;

19

SIS MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

they convey the circulation of the sap in the former, as the
veins do the blood in the latter; but it is by no means
settled as yet by physiologists how the food of plants is taken
up into the system, and converted into their constituent parts.

From the foregoing considerations and facts, it is evident,
that, as air, heat, and moisture, are each essential to vegeta-
tion, that water should only be given in proportion as heat
and air are attainable. In the Summer season, greenhouse
plants may be exposed to the open air, from the early part
of May, until the end of September, by being placed on the
ledges of windows, or on a stand erected for the purpose,
or in the absence of a nursery bed of flowering plants, they
may be introduced into the regular flower-beds, to supply
the place of such plants as may wither and die in the course
of a Summer, by being turned out of the pots and planted,
or plunged in the earth with the pots.

In the heat of the Summer season, plants generally
require water every evening, and in the absence of dews,
the earth about their roots may sometimes need a little in the
morning; but experience shows, that the roots of plants
more frequently get injured from being soddened with water,
than from being kept moderately dry.

Having before intimated that exotic plants will generally
thrive best in a temperature and soil similar to that in
which nature first produced them, it may be necessary to
remind the reader, that we have the means of obtaining
suitable composts from our own soils, and from sand,
decayed leaves, rotten dung, and various kinds of peat, bog,
and rock mould; these ingredients being judiciously mixed
and prepared, may be suited to all the various kinds of
plants, and should be used as occasion requires.

As the roots of plants make considerable growth in the
course of a Summer, it will be necessary to examine them
by turning them out of the pots ;" this may be done early in
September, at which time all matted and decayed roots
should be pared off, and the plants shifted into larger pots,
which being filled with suitable compost, and watered, will
be ready for removal into the house on the approach of
cold nights, which is generally early in October.

MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

219

Greenhouse plants require an annual pruning, and should
be occasionally headed down, in order that their size and
appearance may be improved ; the best time for doing this
is soon after they have done flowering, and while they are
in a growing state.

Having endeavoured to furnish my readers with the
artificial means of preserving tender plants in a climate
foreign to that from which nature first produced them, I shall
call their attention to another class of plants well calculated
for the windows of a house.

I allude to the many beautiful varieties of the Chinese^
Chrysanthemum; these are frequently cultivated in pots,
and may be taken from the ground and put into pots, even
when in full flower, without injury, and when the bloom is
over, returned to the garden. In the Spring following, they
will throw up an abundance of suckers.

The following list contains some of the best varieties of
the Chrysanthemum, and are entitled to a place in every
flower garden. In October and November, when the waning
year has left our gardens comparatively cheerless, these,
with their various colours, deck them out in gaiety, and
prolong the semblance of Summer. They are perfectly
hardy, and will brave our severest Winters.

From the Catalogue of W* Prince <$• Sons, Flushing, L. I.

The gold bordered red; ]

ilie petals are red, ,

striped with golden
yellow

White quilled
Pale buff, or orange I
Changeable, red and

orange on same plant
Lilac quilled.
Rose-coloured,or pink
Lilac and white, chan-
geable ; the floicers

vary to lilac, to white

with a purple centre,

and to pure white
Darkerimson,orSpan-

ish brown

Straw coloured quilled
Golden yellow
Tasselled White

Semi-double quilled do
Paper white
Quilled light purple
Expanded do do
Quilled yellow
Double Indian yellow
Double Indian white.
Dark purple
Early blush
Golden lotus
Quilled purple
Starry purple
Park's smallyellowjZne
Quilled salmon
Semidouble quilled
Pale orange
Two-coloured red
Curled buff, or salmon
Large lilac
Late pale purple

Quilled fine yellow

Sulphur do

Superb clustered do

Small do

Single flame yello w

Quilled pink

Quilled Orange

Early crimson

Curled lilac

Two coloured incurv'd

Blush ranunculus

Late quilled purple

Tasselled lilac

Tasselled yellow

Yellow waratah

Pale lilac

Large buff, superb

Barclay's

Alton's

Sabine's.

220 CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE 1*LANT£.

Chrysanthemums may be propagated from seed and cut-
tings, and each plant will produce several suckers which
may be separated every Spring. As the flowers are liable to
be injured by the rain in Autumn, it is advisable to take up
a few plants, and place them in a light room or greenhouse,
which will preserve them for some time.

Many people keep their late blooming plants in the house
through the Winter ; this is a bad practice, as the heat and
want of air will exhaust or destroy the plants altogether.
If the flowers fade before hard frost prevails, it is best either
to plunge the pots, into the ground with the plants, or to turn
them out of the pots, and plant them, with the balls of earth
entire, into the borders of the flower garden.

Early in May, such as may be intended for potting the
ensuing season, should be divided at the roots, if not potted
and planted, each kind separate. One single stem is suffi-
cient for a moderate sized pot, if the object be to bave bushy
plants ; but if showy plants are desired, one of each of the
varied colours may be selected for each pot, which should be
sufficiently capacious to hold them without crowding them,
as this will cause the plants to grow weak arid slender. If
such happens early in the Summer, a stocky growth may be
produced by clipping the tops, and they will bloom in great
perfection in their usual season.

INTRODUCTION TO THE

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

To promote brevity, and avoid tautology, I here submit
the following statement :

That the directions accompanying our catalogue of
Annual, Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, will apply
to such plants in the green-house department as are ordi-
narily raised from seed.

That the directions annexed to the catalogue of Flower-
ing and Ornamental Shrubs, for propagation by cuttings,
layers, &c., are applicable to. a great proportion of the

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 3gl

plants hereinafter described, and that the exceptions are
shown in the monthly calendar.

That such Bulbous roots as are generally embraced in
Greenhouse Catalogues, from their being adapted to artifi-
cial culture, have been already treated of, under each head,
in numerous articles ; to which the reader is referred.

That with the exception of Hot-house plants, which re-
quire a uniformly warm climate to perpetuate their exist-
ence, all such other tender and half hardy plants as need
protection in Winter, may come under the denomination of
Greenhouse Plants ; some species however, notwithstanding
this concession, may be preserved in frames, pits, cellars, or
warm rooms.

That many of those species designated thus, § and
thus j in our two first catalogues, are of such description ;
and as they have been treated of in the chapters thereto an-
nexed, the following catalogue and explication will be
necessarily brief, when compared with one general catalogue
of exotic plants.

Acacia. Of this and the Mimosa, which are by some con-
sidered as one genus, there are upwards of a hundred spe-
cies and varieties, suited for artificial culture. The blossoms
which are generally straw colour and yellow, except the
most tender, some of which are crimson, succeed each
other from February to June.

Agapanthus. A beautiful species of Lily, producing large
blue flowers from April to June ; some varieties have striped
leaves and delicate white blossoms.

Aloe. Of this genus, there are numerous species and
varieties, some of which are very curious, being possessed of
all the varied forms and figures peculiar to succulent plants.
Some species flower annually from March to September,
and all, except the Century Aloe, blossom frequently; the
colours are generally yellow, pink, and red. The singular
figure and habit of these plants render them desirable for
greenhouse culture.

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

Arbutus. European Strawberry tree. A half-hardy ever-
green shrub, of which there are several species and varieties,
producing crimson and pink blossoms, and fruit, which
remain on the plant a considerable time.

Ardesia. Chinese Ardesia. This is generally cultivated
as a hot-house plant; and, if kept in the greenhouse, should
be placed in a warm situation. There are several species,
producing oblong shining leaves, pink flowers and red ber-
ries, which are very ornamental.

Aster argophyllus. Musk Plant. A plant of no great
beauty, but esteemed by some for its musky fragrance ;
leaves ovate, lanceolate, and silky beneath.

Aucuba Japonica. A naif-hardy shrub, with pale green
Isaves spotted with yellow. It produces small purple blos-
soms, but is desirable for its foliage only : to preserve
which in good condition, shade in the Summer is absolutely
accessary.

Azalea. The Chinese species of Azalea are numerous
and beautiful, producing blossoms of various hues, as white,
purple, scarlet, yellow, &c., and some are striped and spot-
ted, which succeed each other from February to May,under
good cultivation.

Banksia. A genus of plants named in honour of Sir
Joseph Banks, of which there are over twenty species, all
curious in flower, and variable in foliage ; colours, yellow
and green. They generally blossom from May to August.

Beaufortia. There are two species of this beautiful
shrub, yielding scarlet and pink flowers from the sides of
their stalks, from May to July.

Bellis perennis* Daisy. This half-hardy dwarf species
of which there are several varieties, as recorded in our Peren-
nial Catalogue, are worthy of further notice, from their yield-
ing thousands of button-formed flowers from January to July,
or until checked by the Summer heat, from which they
should be screened, by being planted in a shaded border
in the Spring. The colours are white, red and variegated,
and some, called hen and chicken Daisies, grow in clusters.

Bletia tankervilli. A delicate plant, producing spikes of
purple flowers, similar to the Hyacinth, from April to July.

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 2*23

Bouvardia. Mexican Bouvardia. A beautiful plant, pro-
ducing brilliant scarlet flowers from May to September,
when carefully cultivated.

Boronia. There are several species of this plant, natives of
New Holland; the flowers of some are star-like, rose-coloured
and sweet-scented ; a* perfection in April and May.

Burchellia. A dwarf evergreen shrub, producing orange
coloured flowers in large terminale clusters, from March to
June.

Cactus. Of this family of plants there are numerous spe-
cies supposed to be of different genera, from the variation of
their character and habits. They belong to the hot-house,
but succeed well in a warm room or good greenhouse.
Some are formed into erect pyramids, others are of a trailing
habit, and all produce from the sides of their succulent
stalks and leaver, beautiful crimson, white, or pink flower?,
from March to August.

Calceolaria. Of this species of delicate dwarf plants, there
are several splendid varieties annually raised from seed ;
producing red, yellow and orange coloured flowers from
April to August, when shaded from the noonday Sun ; they
will otherwise suffer from heat.

Calothamnus. A beautiful evergreen shrub, similar to a
dwarf pine, producing scarlet blossoms from the old wood,
from April to November.

Callicoma serratifolia. A beautiful plant, producing tufted
yellow heads of flowers from May to July.

Camellia. Of this admired Winter-blooming genus or
plants, there are several distinct species, the varieties from
many of which multiply annually. Its durable glossy fo-
liage, and splendid flowers, which excel those of any
other plant, will insure it a pre-eminence in every greenhouse;
as in good collections, flowers of various hues may be
gathered, from October to May.

Ckeiranthus. Under this title have been generally embra-
ced all those fragrant and beautiful half-hardy species of
Biennial Plants, known as Wall and Gilliflowers ; the lat-
ter species is now however denominated Mathiola in our
catalogues. The beautiful blossoms and delicious fragranc &

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

of these families, from February to June, entitle them to
more than a passing notice. Their perfumes are exquisite.

Cineraria cruenta. Canary Aster. A dwarf half-shrub-
by plant, producing purple blossoms in April and JMay.

Cineraria maritima. Silvery-leaved Ragwort, or Powder-
ed Beau. A white plant, producing bright yellow globular
flowers from April to June or July.

Cistus. Rock Rose. A half-hardy dwarf shrub, of
which there are upwards of twenty species natives of Eu-
rope ; the flowers, which are white and purple, multiply
abundantly in May and June.

Citrus, Orange, Lemon, &c. This genus embraces the
Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shaddock, &c. of each of which
there are several vareties. They are indispensable in a
good greenhouse, for their handsome evergreen foliage,
most ordoriferous blossoms, and beautiful golden fruit,
which by careful cultivation may be kept constantly on the
plants. Those varieties with variegated, yellow and green
foliage, are very generally admired.

Clethra arborea variegata. A fine sweet-scented shrub,
producing spikes of white downy blossoms; the leaves are
oblong and serrated, having a gold -coloured edge.

Correa. A genus of dwarf shrubby plants, consisting of
several species, producing their orange, white, red and
green blossoms frequently in the Winter, and sometimes in
May or June.

Coronilla glauca. A desirable greenhouse dwarf shrub,
yielding numerous sweet-scented yellow flowers in clusters ;
from January to April. There are other varieties which
blossom in Summer.

Cotyledon orbiculata. Cape Navelwort. A succulent
plant, producing finger-like suckers and successional joints,
which blossom annually ; the curiosity of the foliage, how-
ever, is its chief recommendation.

Crassula. A species of dwarf succulent plants, produ-
cing scarlet and variegated wax-like flowers ; from April to
June or July.

Crinum amabile. A large beautiful flowering bulb, of
which there are several species, chiefly calculated for hot-

CATALOGUE O'F GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 225

house culture, where some varieties frequently yield three
stems of beautiful crimson, purple or white flowers, in a
year.

Daphne odora. A beautiful dwarf evergreen shrub,
yielding white fragrant blossoms in many-flowered terminal
heads, from December to March. There are other species
and varieties, one of which has its leaves edged with
yellow.

Diantkvs. Under this name is embraced all the admira-
ble species of Carnations, Picotees, Pinks, Sweet Wil-
liams, &c., recorded in our catalogue of Perennials ; and
which are in universal esteem for their fragrance and beauty,
from May to August. They are all hardy, except the Car-
nation and Picotee tribes, which are well deserving green-
house or frame culture.

Diosma. A dwarf genus of heath-leaved shrubs, producing
numerous small flowers of a white lilac or pink colour ; some
varieties of which are sweet-scented, from March to May.

Dryandrus. To this genus belong several species; similar
to the Banksias', they are delicate plants, producing orange
and straw-coloured thistle-like flowers-in abundance.

Epacris. This is a native of New South Wales, of which
there are several species, mostly erect growing plants,
varying from two to four feet ; the leaves are small, and the
blossoms which in the varieties are crimson, pink, purple
and white, are, under good cultivation, abundant from
January to June.

Erica. Heath. Upwards of five hundred species and
varieties of this plant are cultivated in Great Britain, where
a continued succession of bloom is kept up from January to
December; the most prominent colours are white, scarlet,
purple, yellow and red. They are desirable plants to culti-
vate in any country, as they furnish material for the bouquet
in Winter, but they must be screened from the noon-day
Sun in Summer, and only moderately watered ; as extremes
of drought or moisture are destructive to this family of plants.

Erythrina. Coral Plant. There are several species of
this plant, chiefly adapted to the hot-house, producing long
spikes of crimson or scarlet flowers. Some keep them in

226 CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

good condition in a greenhouse ; they must, however, be
well attended to, and frequently repotted, which will some-
times induce them to bloom two or three times in a year.

Euphorbia. There %re several species of this plant
adapted to the greenhouse; some of which are beautiful,
especially the E. splendens and Poinsett's, scarlet bachyt'd,
or Euphorbia poinsetti. They flower freely from December
to May, if kept in a warm part of the house.

Eupatorium elegans. A dwarf plant, producing white
sweet-scented flowers early in the Spring ; to promote bushi-
ness, the plant, after blossoming-, should be closely pruned.

Eutaxia myrtifolia. A beautiful little evergreen shrub ;
foliage small, but very neat, furnishing numerous red and
yellow-coloured blossoms from March to May, under good
culture.

Ficus elastica. India-rubber tree, and Ficus australis,
are both evergreen plants, and grow luxuriantly in a green-
house ; the foliage, which is large and glossy, is pink on the
under side.

Ficus. Fig Tree. A plant easily cultivated, of which
there are many species and varieties, which kept in pots or
tubs, in a temperature adapted to the Orange tree, will fruit
freely, and ripen two crops a year.

Fuchsia. Ladies Ear-drop, Of this beautiful dwarf
shrub, there are several varieties, producing clusters of
small scarlet flowers, the stamens of which are encircled
with a petal of purple ; in bloom from April to September.

Gardenia. Cape Jasmine. A very popular evergreen
plant, producing white fragrant rose-like flowers, from May
to August. There are several species and varieties, some
of which are more dwarfish than others, but all are desirable.

Gelsemium nitidum. Carolina Jasmine. A beautiful
climbing evergreen, producing in the month of May, large
yellow trumpet-like blossoms, of delicious fragrance.

Gloxinia. A desirable herbaceous plant, of which there
are several varieties, yielding beautiful showy flowers; colours
blue, lilac and white.

Gnapalium. Everlasting Flower. Of this plant there

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 227

are several species or varieties, some of which yield clusters
of yellow flowers, and others red ; from March to June.

Gnidia. Flax-leaved Gnidia. A dwarf shrub, of which
there are several varieties, furnishing pretty tubular and
corymbose straw-coloured flowers in the Winter and Spring.

Heliotropium. Peruvian Heliotrope. A species of soft
shrubby dwarf plants, which, when cultivated in a warm
situation, will yield abundance of delicate blue or purple
flowers ; from January to September.

Helychrysum. Eternal Flower. There are several spe-
cies and varieties of this plant, producing soft downy
foliage and durable flowers, which, if cut before they are too
far advanced, will retain their splendour several years.

Hibiscus Chinensis. This half-hardy herbaceous plant
is worthy of a place in the greenhouse, as some species
will yield flowers six inches in diameter, if well attended to
and frequently watered; the colours are crimson and blush.

Hoya. Wax Plant. A fine climbing species, adapted to
the hot-house, the leaves being succulent, green and fleshy,
require considerable heat and but little water. Some pro-
duce pink flowers, and others white, in April and May.

Hydrangea hortensis. The Hydrangea is a well known
deciduous half-hardy soft-wooded shrub, producing large
pink balls of blossom, when cultivated in a shaded border,
from May to October ; and by mixing iron dust from a
blacksmith's shop with the soil, or by growing the plants in
swamp earth, or mould from decayed leaves, the flowers
will become blue.

Hypericum. St.John's-wort. A half hardy little plant,
producing yellow flowers from April to June. There are
several species, some producing scarlet blossoms.

lllicium. Aniseed Tree. A dwarf species of shrub, the
leaves of which when rubbed, smell like anise; some pro-
duce red, and others yellow flowers, in March and April.

Indigofera. Indigo Tree. A free-flowering shrub, of
which there are several species ; the flowers, which grow
in long panacles, are red, yellow and pink.

Jasminum. Jasmine. Of this favourite genus, there are
several species of various complexions. The Catalonian Jas-

228 CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

mine, or J. grandiflorum, produces white fragrant blossoms in
Winter ; the Indian Jasmine, or J, odoratissimum, and also
the J. revolutum, yield very sweet-scented yellow flowers
from April to June, and the J. officinale, a climbing plant)
blossoms through the Summer.

Justicia. The plants of this genus are generally cultiva-
ted in the hot-house ; some produce scarlet flowers in large
terrain ale spikes, from December to March, and others purple.

Kennedia. A beautiful evergreen climber, of which there
are several species, producing blossoms of various hues, as
scarlet, blue, crimson, and purple, from February to June.

Lagerstramia. A half-hardy deciduous plant, the roots
of which planted in the garden in March, will produce large
spikes of red flowers, from May to August.

Lantana. A genus of dwarf shrubs, which being culti-
vated in the hot-house, or a warm greenhouse,will yield their
blossoms in April and May ; the species are of various
colours ; yellow, orange, pink, white, purple, and variable.

Laums nobilis. Laurel. This evergreen shrub is by
some esteemed for its fragrant leaves ; there are several spe-
cies designated as sweet bay, royal bay, &c. and some spe-
cies are without scent.

Lavendula. Lavender. A species of soft- wooded half
hardy plants with narrow scented leaves, yielding spikes of
fragrant blue flowers in May and June.

Lechenaultia formosa. A dwarf plant with heath-like
foliage and bright scarlet blossoms; in bloom a long season,
under good culture.

Leptospermum. This genus is somewhat celebrated from
the leaves of the species. Z». scoparium being used by thecrew
of Captain Cook's ship as a substitute for Tea, the leaves
having an agreeable bitter flavour ; the blossoms which are
small, are white.

Leucadtndron. Silver Tree. A neat evergreen shrub
with silvery-like foliage, of which there are several species,
all admirable for their beauty.

Linum. Flax, Two species of this plant are worthy of
cultivation in a greenhouse, where they will bloom in Feb-
ruary and March. The Linum trigynum produces large

CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 229

yellow flowers in clusters, and Linum ascyrifolium yields
spikes of blue and white flowers, which are similar to those
of the Convolvulus.

Lychnis coronata. Coronet-flowered Lychnis. This
half-hardy plant, embraced in our catalogue of Perennials, is
worthy of protection; from its furnishing numerous beautiful
orange scarlet flowers, from June to August. As it yields
no seed, the roots should be taken from the garden in
Autumn, and returned the ensuing Spring.

Magnolia. Most of the species of this justly-admired
genus are hardy,and blossom in the Summer; there are, how-
ever, some of the Chinese varieties, which cultivated in a
greenhouse, will produce their beautiful purple, yellow and
white blossoms, from January to April.

Melaleucas. A beautiful genus of plants, natives of New
Holland ; the diversity of iheir foliage and singularity of
flowers, some of which are scarlet, and shoot from the wood
like fringes, render them worthy of good cultivation.

Mesembryanthemum. A genus.of succulent plants, con-
sisting of hundreds of species and varieties, chiefly natives of
the Cape of Good Hope. They vary greatly in their forms,
attitudeSjand habits of growth ; some are upright,others pro-
cumbent, some are thick, others cimeter or slender-leaved.
They are all singular, and many of them beautiful. The co-
lours of theflowers,whichare of every shade, are great orna-
ments from May to August ; gome species and varieties are
cultivated as Annuals in the Flower Garden, where they
prove a great acquisition.

Metrosideros. A genus of Australasian shrubs, some
species of which are willow and others spear-leaved, produ-
cing their cones of scarlet or white flowers, from March to
May.

Myrtus. Myrtle. A genus of dwarf evergreen shrubs,
of which there are several species and varieties ; the foliage
is chiefly glossy and fragrant, yielding numerous small
flowers. There are some species known as Cape Myrtles,
,or Myrsines, which aljo yield abundance of white and
purple fl »wers from March to May.

Nandina domestica. Japan Nandina. A half-hardy ever-

20

230 CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

green shrub ; leaves supra-decompound, with entire lanceo-
late leaflets ; a kind of foliage that is very rare.

Nerium. Oleander. A well-known and admired shrub,
yielding1 clusters of rose-like flowers from May to September.
The Nerium splendens is the most esteemed of the red varie-
ties ; the true double white and striped are very rare ; but
some of those cultivated for sale, producing semi-double
flowers, are by no means desirable.

Olea fragrance. Dwarf Olive. This variety of the Olive
recommends itself to notice, for its dwarf habit of growth,
and from the foliage and white blossoms being highly odo-
riferous, from March to May.

Passiflora. Passion flower. Of this celebrated genus of
climbing plants there are several species and varieties, which
produce splendid flowers of various colours, red, blue, white,
purple, scarlet, &c. beautifully contrasted, and some species
yield fruit. They generally blossom from May to Septem-
ber, and some will flower in the hot-house in Winter.

Pelargoniums Geranium. The species and varieties of
this beautiful genus is supposed to exceed a thousand, which
are of every character, colour, and lineament, and some so
beautifully blended as to astonish the beholder ; the agree-
able fragrance also, of which many of them are possessed,
will always render them favourites to amateur florists. The
best blooming season, is from April, to June or July.

Pittosporum. A Chinese evergreen shrub, with hand-
some glossy foliage, yielding numerous white clusters of
flowers in April and May, which are of delicious fragrance.
There are several species, one of which is variegated.

Plumbago capensis. Cape Plumbago. A beautiful dwarf
plant, with oblong leaves, yielding numerous spikes of showy
blue flowers nearly all the Summer.

Polygata cordati. Heart-shaped Polygata. A beautiful
little plant, producing abundance of rich purple flowers
nearly all the Winter.

Protea. A beautiful race of plants, the foliage of which
is very diversified, and the flowers also ; being red, white,
straw, brown, green and purple, and most of these colours
are frequently to be seen on the same plant ; from March
to June.

CATALOGUE OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 231

Primula. In this genus are embraced all the varieties of
the Primrose, Polyanthus, Auricula, Cowslip, Oxlip, &c.
already inserted in our Biennial and Perennial catalogues.
The flowers, which appear early in Spring, are mostly
sweet-scented, and of various colours, red, white, yellow,
lilac, purple, crimson, &c., which in some are beautifully
variegated. The above are natives of England; besides
which are two varieties, white and pink, natives of China,
producing umbels of flowers ; from January to May.

Pyrus Japonica alba, or Cydonia Japonica. One of the
earliest flowering dwarf shrubs of the garden, producing
beautiful blush flowers ; there is another variety, which pro-
duces scarlet blossoms, already described in our catalogue
of shrubs us an evergreen, which is a mistake, they being
both deciduous shrubs.

Reseda. Mignonette. This fragrant little plant has
been already treated of as an annual; it may, however, be
kept under cultivation from January to December, by
sowing seed at different seasons in a greenhouse or warm
room.

Rhododendron. Rose Bay. A beautiful genus of plants,
chiefly natives of India, furnishing clusters of flowers of
various shades, as purple, scarlet or crimson, and these
variegated in spots and flakes ; from March to May.

Rosea. Rose. This Queen of Flowers, so universally
admired, nature seems to have distributed over the whole
civilized world ; and varieties have been so multiplied o^
late years, as to render it difficult to make a judicious choice;
many of the new varieties, however, being shy bloomers', are
not so desirable for greenhouse culture as the common
China Rose, a select assortment of which, carefully cultiva-
ted, will produce blossoms from January to December.

Rosmarinus. Rosemary. A fragrant half. hardy slender
leaved plant, which has been held in great esteem for ages.
In some parts of Europe it is customary to distribute
sprigs amongst the guests, at weddings and funerals.

Ruella. A desirable plant, of which there are several
species ; they produce purple or scarlet tunnel-shaped flow-
ers ; from December to March.

232 CATALOGUE OP GREENHOUSE PLANTS*

Salvia. Mexican Sage. A free-blooming plant, produ-
cing in the different species, scarlet and blue flowers in
spiked whorls; cuttings of which, if taken from stock plants
in the greenhouse, early in Spring,and planted in good gar-
den soil, will embellish the borders three or four months of
tiie Summer.

Scmpervirum arboreum. Treehouse leek. A succulent
plant, similar to the common house-leek, on a dwarfish
stem ; by some admired as an evergreen.

Stapelia. A genus of dwarf succulent plants, producing
beautiful purple, striped, freckled and star-like flowers,
within six inches of the surface ; in its varieties from May to
November.

Stevia1 serrata. Vanilla-scented Stevia. This plant,
although usually cultivated as an annual, is worthy of
greenhouse culture, from its affording fragrant and orna-
mental materials for bouquets the whole Winter.

Sinlitzia rcgina. Queen's strelitz. A beautiful dwarf
plant, producing from a stalk from one to two feet long,
several flowers of a bright yellow, contrasted with blue ; from
May to September.

Tecoma capensis. A perennial plant, producing
orange- coloured trumpet flowers in clusters; very similar to
the Bigonia tribe, towards the end of Summer.

Tkea. Tea. Of this celebrated Chinese plant, which
supplies a great proportion of the human family with their
domestic beverage, there are two varieties. Thea virdis
and Thea bokea. The plants when cultivated in a greenhouse,
are by no means of rapid growth, nor are the flowers which
are white, of any great beauty.

Tussilago fragrance. A half-hardy herbaceous Peren-
nial plant, by some much esteemed for its heliotrope
scented blossoms, which spring up in clusters from De-
cember to March.

Verbe?ii tripliylla, named in some catalogues, Aloysa
ritriodora* A deciduous shrub, generally admired for the
fragrance of its leaves, which is its chief recommendation,
the blossoms which are white, being small.

Verbena. Splendid Verbena. A tribe of plants increas-

CATALOGUE OP «REEMHOUSE PLANTS. 233

ing in variety annually, and which already embrace every
shade of colour, scarlet, blue, rose, lilac, white, pink, &c.
Planted in the flower borders, they impart beauty and
variety through the Summer, and cultivated in the green-
house, they embellish it a great part of the Winter.

Viburnum tinus. Laurustinus, A much-admired half
hardy evergreea shrub, producing clusters of white blossoms
from January to May. There are other species very
similar in habit, and one with striped leaves.

Viola. Violet. Of those beauties of the garden, some
of which are denominated " Florist's Flowers," there are
upwards of a hundred species and varieties. The early
Violets are highly fragrant, and the variety and beauty of
the Pansey tribe, almost exceed description or conception.
As these splendid dwarf plants decorate the greenhouse and
flower borders from January to December, they are worthy
of careful cultivation.

Yucca, aloe-folia, and its beautiful variety, variegata, are
desirable plants to cultivate, from their singular appearance,
contrasted with other plants. Their blossoms, which
are white, grow in spikes, but the plants do not flower much
until several years old.

ITJ31 The annexed article, entitled the Matrimonial Gar-
den, is respectfully submitted as an appendage to the
Flower Garden, BY THE AUTHOR.

20*

234

THE

MAN is formed for social enjoyment, and if it be allowed
that " it is not good for man to be alone," it may be justly
inferred that it is not good that woman should be alone^
hence a union of interests indicates a union of persons for
their mutual benefit. By this union, a sort of seclusion
from the rest of our species takes place ; and as a garden
is a retired apartment, appropriated to culture and im-
provement, the married state may not be inaptly compared
with it in many respects.

It is good and honourable for the human species, pru-
dently and cautiously to approach this delightful enclosure.
Its entrance in general is extremely gay and glittering,
being strewed with flowers of every hue and every fragrance,
calculated to charm the eye and please the taste ; but they
are not all so ; and as there are many persons who may
wish to enter this garden at some time or other, who are yet
strangers to its various productions, their attention should
l>e directed to the cultivation of those plants which are
beneficial, and to the avoiding or rooting up of those which
are injurious.

And first, let me caution adventurers in this garden not
to dream of permanent happiness; if you should so dream,
experience will soon make you wiser, as such happiness
never existed but in visionary heads. If you are desirous
that this garden should yield you all the bliss of which it is
capable, you must take with you that excellent flower called
GOOD HUMOUR, which, of all the flowers of nature, is the
most delicious and delicate ; do not drop it or lose it, as
many do soon after they enter the garden — it is a treasure
that nothing can supply the loss of. When you get to the
end of the first walk, which contains about thirty steps,
commonly called "the Honey Moon Path," you will find
the garden open into a vast variety of views, and it is

MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 235

necessary to caution you to avoid many productions in them
which are noxious, nauseous, and even fatal in their nature
and tendency, especially to the ignorant and unwary.
There is a low, small plant, which may be seen in almost
every path, called INDIFFERENCE. — This, though not per-
ceived in the entrance, you will always know where it
grows, by a certain coldness in the air which surrounds it.
Contrary to the nature of plants in general, this grows by
cold and dies by warmth ; whenever you perceive this
change in the air, avoid the place as soon as you can. In
the same path is often found that baneful flower called
JEALOUSY, which I advise you never to look at, for it has the
strange quality of smiting the eye that beholds it with a
pain that is seldom or never got rid of. Jealousy is a
deadly flower ; it is the aconite of the garden, and hag
marred the happiness of thousands.

As you proceed, you will meet with many little crooked
paths. I advise you as a friend, never to go into them ;
for although at the entrance of each, it is written in large
letters, i AM RIGHT, if you do enter, and get to the end of
them, you will find the true name to be PERVERSENESS.
These crooked paths occasion endless disputes, and as it is
difficult to make the crooked straight, it is better to avoid
them altogether, lest, as it sometimes happens, a total sepa-
ration be the consequence, and you take different paths the
rest of your lives. Near this spot, you will meet with a
rough, sturdy plant, called OBSTINACY, which bears a hard
knotty fruit that never digests, and of course must injure
the constitution; it even becomes fatal, when taken in large
quantities. Turn from it, avoid it as you would the
cholera.

Just apposite to this, grows that lovely and lively shrub,
called COMPLIANCE, which, though not always pleasant to
the palate, is very salutary, and leaves a sweetness in the
mouth ; it is a most excellent shrub, and produces the
most delicious fruit. — Never be without a very large sprig
in your hand ; it will often be wanted as you go along, /or
you cannot be happy without it in any part of the garden.
In one of the principal compartments, stands a~ very im-

236

THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN.

portant plant, called ECONOMY ; it is of a thriving quality ;
cultivate this fine plant with all your care; for it adorns
and enriches at the same time. Many overlook it, some
despise it, and others think that they will never -want it ;
it is generally overlooked in the gaiety and levity with which
people enter this place, but the want of it is generally
deplored with bitter repentance. There are two other
plants of the same species, which are very closely connected,
called INDUSTRY and FRUGALITY, and I mnst take leave to
tell you, that unless both the male and the female partake
largely of their branches, very little success can be expected ;
in this they must both unite. Take care that you provide
yourself and partner with a supply of each as soon as pos-
sible after you enter the garden.

There are two or three paths which run much into one
another, and deserve the closest attention of the softer sex ;
I mean REGULARITY, EXACTNESS, and SIMPLICITY.* Do not
think, as some do, that when you have once got into the
garden, you may be neglectful of these paths. Remember
that your companion will see your neglect, which will affect
his eye, and may alienate his heart. Enter on these depart-
ments, then, as soon as you enter the garden, and when
you are once fairly in, you are in for life ; the danger is
that if you do not get into them at an early period, you will
not find them afterwards. Near these walks is to be found
that modest plant, called HUMILITY i

It is the Violet, " born to blush unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air."

It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined with
other virtues, it adds a charm to life, and spreads a fragrance
around its wearer. Cultivate, then, with all your care, this
sweet little plant, and you will find it prevent the growth of
all poisonous and noxious weeds.

Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of CULTIVA-
TION, as connected with PROPAGATION, as that most probably
will be your employment in this garden, sooner or later.
Should you have the rearing of a young plant, remember

* In deportment as well as in dress.

THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. * 237

that it is frail in its nature, and liable to be destroyed by
every blast, and will demand all your care and attention.
Should you witness a blast on its dawning beauties,
Oh ! how your fond heart will bleed with tenderness, affec-
tion, and sympathy ! The young shoot will naturally twine
around all the fibres of your frame. Should it live and
^hrive, spare no pains to "train it up in the way it should
go." Weed it, water it, prune it ; it will need all the cul-
tivator's skill. Without this, many weeds and baneful
plants will grow up with it, and blast your fondest hopes.
Be ever mindful that this is a TRUST for which both parties
are accountable.

Without careful cultivation, what can you expect but the
most luxuriant growth of unruly appetites, which, in time,
will break forth in all manner of disgraceful irregularities 1
What, but that ANGER, like a prickly thorn, will arm the
temper with an untractable moroseness ? That PEEVISH-
NESS, like a stinging nettle, will render the" conversation
irksome and forbidding 1 That AVARICE, like some choking
weed, will teach the fingers to gripe, and the hands to op-
press I That REVENGE, like some poisonous plant, replete
with baneful juices, will rankle in the breast, and meditate
mischief to its neighbour. While unbridled LUSTS, like
swarms of noisome insects, taint each rising thought, and
render "every imagination of the heart only evil continu-
ally?" Such are the usual products of unrestrained nature !
Such the furniture of the uncultivated mind !

By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. By
suitable discipline, clear the soil; by careful instruction,
implant the seeds of virtue. By skill and vigilance, prune
the unprofitable and over-luxuriant branches : — " direct the
young idea how to shoot," — the wayward passions how to
move. The mature man will then become the chief orna-
ment of the garden. Around him CHARITY will breathe her
sweets, and in his branches HOPE expand her blossoms
In him the personal virtues will display their graces, and the
social ones their fruit — the sentiments become generous,
the carriage endearing, the life useful, and the end happy
and peaceful.

238

"Marriage is to a woman at once the happiest and the
saddest event of her life ; it is the promise of future bliss,
raised on the death of all present enjoyment. She quits her
home, her parents, her companions, her occupations, her
amusements, every thing on which she has hitherto depen-
ded for comfort, for affection, for kindness, for pleasure.
The parents by whose advice she has been guided, the sister
to whom she has dared impart every embryo thought or
feeling, the brother who has played with her, by turns the
counsellor and the counselled, and the younger children to
whom she has hitherto been the mother and the playmate,
all are to be forsaken at one fell stroke ; every former tie is
loosened, the spring of every hope and action is to be chan-
ged ; and yet she flies with joy into the untrodden path be-
fore her ; buoyed up with the confidence of requited love,
she bids a fond and grateful adieu to the life that is past,
and turns with excited hopes and joyous anticipation of the
happiness to come. Then wo to him who can blight such
fair hopes — who can treacherously lure such a heart from
its peaceful enjoyment, and the watchful protection of home
— who can coward-like, break the illusions that have won
her, and destroy the confidence which love had inspired.
Wo to him who has too early withdrawn the tender plant
from the props and stays of moral discipline in which she
has been nurtured, and yet make no effort to supply their
place; for on him be the responsibility of her errors — on
him who has first taught her, by his example, to grow care-
less of her duty, and then exposed her with a weakened spirit,
and unsatisfied heart, to the wide storms and the wily
temptations of a vicious world." — Ladies' Companion.

239

OBSERVATIONS

FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD

IN my preliminary observations on the subjects I have
hitherto treated on, I am aware that it may appear to some,
that I have not sufficiently urged the importance of a
judicious selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, &c.
My object in not insisting on a strict attention to these
important points was, because I know, that though good
land is abundant in this extensive country, it is impossible
for every one to choose for himself; and rather than any
disadvantages in these respects, should discourage pro-
prietors of land from attempting to raise garden products,
so necessary to the comfort and convenience of every
family, I have endeavoured to show them how to use to
advantage whatever land may surround their places ef
abode. As, however, some have a choice, it may be ne-
cessary to offer some further remarks on the subject.

The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be
one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and
is well exposed to the South, also to incline a little to the
East, and South- west. "When the situation is low and close
the trees are very liable to become mossy, which always
injures them, by closing up the pores of the wood ; they are
also more liable to be affected by blight. Although having
an Orchard closely pent up by trees, &c., is injurous,
nevertheless a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from
the fruit trees, as that the latter will not be shaded by them,
is of very great service in protecting the trees in Spring from
severe cold winds.

$40 OBSERVAflONfc ON

A good strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to
the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable for an
Orchard. Great attention must be paid to the substratum,
so that the ground is well drained, for if the top soil be ever
so good and the bottom be we!, it is a very rare case to find
that the trees will prosper for many years, before they begin
to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably
necessary to the success of fruij trees that the bottom be dry,
if it be not naturally so, it must be made so, by judicious
draining.

When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining-,
it must be done for some time before the trees are planted.
In performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and
when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, <fcc. must be
laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little
coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top
of the stones, &e., and then the surface be gently rolled.
Also drains may be made in different directions, so that
any excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the
ground.

It is well known to most cultivator?, that exposure of
soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is expe-
rienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff
and stubborn, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light
animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are
very appropriate substances to.be applied, and will, if care-
fully managed and well worked into the ground, soon bring
it into a proper condition for most purposes.

Previous to laying out an Orchard or Fruit Gctrdcn, the
soil should be manured and pulverized to a great depth,
It should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots
receive may be wholesome ; free, that they may be at full
liberty to range in quest of it ; and rich, that there may be
no defect in food.

If Orchards be made from meadows or pasture lands, the
ground should be improved as much as possible by manur-
ing, trenching, -ploughing, &c. If this is not done to its
full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in
width along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at

ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 241

tfee time of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger
than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position,
and of sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well
pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are
planted.

In transplanting fruit trees, they should be placed two
or three inches deeper than they were in the nursery bed,
and the earth intending for filling in, should be enriched and
vrell pulverized by mixing in some good old manure, and if
any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potatoe tops, or
other refuse of a farm be attainable, let such be used around
the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized
mould be admitted among the fine roots. The trees in
planting should be kept at ease, and several times shaken,
so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer particles of
earth to be connected with the small fibres of the roots;
and when completely levelled, let the ground be well trodden
down and moderately watered, which should be repeated
occasionally after spring planting, if the weather should
prove fry.

As some difference of opinion exists among practical men
as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the folio wing extract
from Mr. Prince's Treatise on Horticulture is submitted :

"SEASONS FOR TRANSPLANTING. — Spring is the season
when we find the most pleasure in making our rural irar
provements, aivj from this circumstance probably it has
become the general season for planting trees, but experi-
ence has proved the Fall planting to be the most successful,
especially in those parts of the United States which are
subject to droughts, as the trees planted in Autumn suffer
little or none from drought, when those set out in Spring
often perish in consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with
regard to those fruits that hare been originally brought from
warmer climates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine,
and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it
is necessary for us to consult the operations of climate also;
and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances,
I have come to the following conclusions. In localities

21

OBSERVATIONS ON THE" %

South of New- York, the Fall season is preferable only for
the Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees
of Northern latitude j whereas, the Spring is to be preferred
for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which for
the reasons before stated, might, during severe Winters,
suffer from the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean
to assert, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured
by the Winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the
least affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which
may or may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of ex-
cellent judgment, make their plantations in the Autumn,
which only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent
minds, a diversity of opinion exists.

"TREES, &c. ON THEIR ARRIVAL AT THE PLACE OP DES-
TINATION.— As soon as the trees arrive at the place where
they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated
ground, the bundle unpacked, and the roots well wet, and
immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to
make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to
leave vacancies for the admission of air to the dry roots, it
having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees
the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine
fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry
from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ;
their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the
subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des-
tination : for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees
are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of
the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all,
cannot thrive the first season, as they can receive little or
no nourishment until these fibres are leplaced.

"To CAUSE THE TREES TO THRIVE. — The ground u he re
they are planted must be kept cultivated ; young trees will
not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around
them, and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass
grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and
free from grass for three or four feet distant around them,

ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN, , 243

and ever/ Autumn some well rotted manure should be dug
in and around each tree, and every Spring the bodies of the
Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry Trees, and others that it is
particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be
brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ;
this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing
the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect.
Should the first season, after transplanting prove dry, regu-
lar watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper
attention in this respect, many lose a large portion of their
trees during a drought."

Such kinds of fruit trees treated upon in this work, as
may require any other than good ordinary soil, may be sup-
plied, by judicious management ; and if a proper attention
be paid to the situation and aspect in arranging a Fruit
Garden, each kind may be so accommodated as to promote
its fruits' ripening earlier or later than the ordinary season,
by varying the aspect ; but Grape Vines, or other tender
fruits, should not be planted where the Sun's influence does
not fully operate.

Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it
is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different
aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a
South aspect, which will ripen earliest; next, against either
an East or West, and lastly, against a North aspect; by
observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Goose-
berries, Currants, &c the fruit will ripen in succession, and
thus a supply of them is considerably lengthened. The earlv
blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm
aspects ; for which arrangements may be made by keeping
awning, matting, netting, &c. nt hand, to shelter them with,
in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense
heat of the Sun after a frosty night ; this, with a sprinkling
of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious
conseqnences from slight frost.

Those who have various soils, should suit them to the
different kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require a strong
loam, but rather the lightest for the Pear. Apricots, Cher-
ries, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter

244 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS.

than for the Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require
peat, bog, or any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be
noticed as we proceed

OBSERVATIONS

ON INSECTS, AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TKEES ARE
LIABLE.

MUCH may be written relative to the various diseases to
which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and
destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects,
which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our
garden. The preventive operations are those of the best
culture. Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the
larva? of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our Win-
ters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c. are
beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their
complete destruction effected, by the use of soap-suds, He,
tar, turpentine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder,
walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances ;
but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the
most pernicious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such
fruit as may fall from the trees, before the insects have an
opportunity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of
shelter.

Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable
situations, they often become diseased; when this happens,
the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees
clean, by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do,
they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation.
Barrenness and diseases are generally produced by the bad
qualities of earth and air, by a want of water, or by the
inroaJs of insects. These incidents generally show them-
selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of
any colour but the natural green ; curled and ragged leaves ;
branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the
roots, instead of from the stem or trunk; the stern diseased

AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 245

in its bark, and gum oozing from various parts thereof, are
all proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is
subject to a disease called the yellows ; and the discoloured
leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms
which so frequently attack the root; where these are found,
they may be removed by a knife or chisel ; but if it should
appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to
prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and
also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to
the fire blight; this malady may be completely checked on
its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately burning
the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pruning,
cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or
tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting good
earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most
diseases in fruit trees ; removing them from a bad to a better
soil, will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a
poorness of land ; for the old adage, ** remove the cause»
and the effect will cease," will be here exemplified. To
cure the oozing of the g im, nothing is more necessary than
to cut away the diseased parts of the bark ; and by thus
assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or
noxious juices, a complete cure may be effected.

When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately
sprinkled with soap-suds, and then be dusted over with sul-
phur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig
around the tree, and examine the soil, and sub-soil; if it be
wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with
good healthy soil, and the ground drained ; if, on the con-
trary, the ground be dry, give .it a plentiful watering; the
same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of
blight, if taken in time. When any canker is observed,
the part affected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean
out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water be
able to lodge in the wound ; when this is done, let a quantity
of soot be mixed up with water, after which, let a little train
oil be well worked amongst it, but so that the mixture
finally remain stiff; this may be plastered over all the
wounds that have been pruned. The application of this

21*

246 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS,

mixture keeps out the wet from the wounds, where it would
be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote vegeta-
tion. When trees are cankery from having a bad sub-soil,
it is in vain to apply any remedy till the ground is properly
drained, and some fresh soil mixed with the natural soil,
also the tree replanted. When trees are known to be so
situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of insects
or disease, they should be attended to at the time of Winter
or early Spring pruning, in order to destroy the insects in
their larva? state.

The following compositions have been known to protect
fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by berng
used as a wash to the tr<5es immediately after pruning.
The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger
mixture of ingredients than others; but the proportions, as
hereafter described, will not be injurious to any, but will
be effectual in the destruction of the larvae of insects.

For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees, — To eight
gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of
common sulphur, and half an-ounce of black pepper.

For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. — To four
gallons of water add one pound of soft soap; two pounds of
common sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of
black pepper.

For Figs and Vines. — To four gallons of water add half
a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter
of an ounce of black pepper.

All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty
minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to
the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.

The most destructive enemy to our fruits, is the Curculio ^
this insect passes the Winter in the earth in a chrysalis state,
and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will
be ready to commence his attacks at about the time the
blossoms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are depo-
sited in the Apple, Pear, and all stone fruit, at a very early
stage of their growth ; these eggs soon hatch, and small
maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to

DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 247

drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this
fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs,
geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their
ravages in succeeding years : but if suffered to remain on
the ground, they will supply food to myriads of their
destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated.

The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the
destruction of which many experiments have been tried.
Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared
over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females in
their ascent to the tree ; but as these tormentors are fre-
quently on the move from November to the end of June,
this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As
this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk
of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from
the surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use
of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the
most likely way to destroy them.

The bark-louse is another pernicious insect ; they resem-
ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be
imperceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree, by
preventing the circulation of the sap. These insects may be
conquered by washing the trees with soap-suds, tobacco
water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy
water and lime, thickened to the consistence of cream or
paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with
a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees ; this should be
done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the
cracks in the bark should be completely covered.

The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath
the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found
in the Spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and
clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken oat
with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are
removed, the wounds should be covered over with grafting
clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to
the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers' mortar early
in the Spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the
part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks,

248 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS,

Although our limits will not allow of a further description
of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and
frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear
directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of
saving all kinds of ashes. If all agriculturists and horticul-
turists were to ofter an inducement to the inhabitants of
large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be
supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote
for many kinds of insects ; and our citizens would be at a
less risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises
for safe keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is
not considered complete without an ash-vault ; and a good
farmer would dispense with his barn, rather than be desti-
tute of an ash-house. I have known formers to supply the
cottagers with as much peat as they coujd burn, on condi-
tion of their saving them the ashes; and there are some that
will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning peat
for the same purpose ; and any thing that has passed the
fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently
clean chimneys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed
miles into the country, and sold ata price sufficient to reward
the collectors, besides paying all expenses ; even the house-
keepers' ashes in cities is a marketable article at all timesr
at from ten to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry
and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common
price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire.

While an this subject, I would urge the importance of a
Spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to prepare
turfs from tanners' bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with
clay, cow dung, &c. and get them dried in the Summer
season, these,by being preserved through the \Vinler, may be
burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blossom,
and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept
up, by lit aping on damp litter every night ; this will prove
pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the
ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a means for
the destruction of others. An orchard thus managed every
year, will need no other manure. The smoking should be
effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterwards

AND DISEASES OP FRUIT TREES. * 249

OH the other, or heaps may be prepared in differents parts of
the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may
serve, to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I ,
know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who
saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after
its having been used as a covering for his Spinach ; and I
have no hes tation in recommending it as an excellent re-
medy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially if some
coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper
the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will
create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious
combustible besprinkled amongst them, it will be benefici.nl.
This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to the
farmer, as well as to the community at large; 1, therefore,
cannot forbear offering some further observations.

It must be acknowledged, that although this country con-
tains an abundance of wood, coal and peat, as well as
almost every other description of fuel, that the poor of our
large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold; and if all
the tales of woe could be sounded in the ears of a sympa-
thizing community during our severe Winter, I am per-
suaded it would arouse them to the 'consideration of a
remedy. It is an acknowledged fact, that the poor of Europe
are cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this
country. This arises, in a great measure, from the circam-
stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agricul-
turists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their
large towns and cities, at a price equal in some instances
to half the cost of a Winter's fuel.

Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable
to the farmer here, as they are in Europe? The extreme
heat of the Summers must certainly engender insects in
equal if not greater proportions ; and as respects manure, it
must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country, than
it is in the densely populated countries of Europe. Perhaps
some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti-
vators to a considerable extent; but I would remind such,
that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with
other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, (as in;

250 % OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, &C.

our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be
worth more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean.

The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value
than any others, and I am persuaded that could they be
fairly tested by some of our best cultivators great good may
result to the community. If the fanners in England can
afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for
the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor
of our community may be placed in easier circumstances
as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land
are to be found in the States of New-York and New Jersey,
and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat
earth; and the owners of such have already began to ex-
plorj their treasures of this description. Good peat is now
to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per
bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all
•orts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal*
and also on the hearth; and if the ashes are not used to any
better purposes than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the
cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this subject is
worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the
different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to
enlist some of our most active citizens to a consideration of
the subject, incalculable good may result to the community
at large.

If the public authorities of our cities, and all those who
distribute fuel amongst the poor, gratis, would give them
peat instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would
answer every purpose to the consumers. In such cases
twelve bushels may be given in the first Winter month to
each of the applicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunc-
tion that they save their ashes in a dry state, in order to
their being taken in exchange for a future supply of peat.
It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels
of peat would make, and if a strict attention be paid to the
conditions of exchange, it would soon be discovered which
of the applicants was the most entitled to the distributor's
bounty. The same sheds which it would be necessary to
provide for housing the peat, could be used as a deposit for

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 1

the ashes. If such sheds be conveniently constructed to
hold each a moderate quantity, the first which is emptied of
peat may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in
exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could be all
used for the same purpose as they become empty. These
ashes, when fairly tested, may become a merchantable
article in Europe ; and it is very probable that farmers may
be induced to take them in exchange for future supplies of
peat ; they could, however, be conveyed into the country at
a trifling expense, and would no doubt meet a ready sale.

OBSERVATIONS

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES.

In training and pruning fruit trees and vines, particular
attention is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency
of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark
and wood, in an uninterrupted succession from the root to
the exrremities of the branches ; pruning therefore, is useful
to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous wood,
and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may
be performed at different seasons of the year, according to
the kinds of fruit which will be shown under each head, as
we proceed.

In the Spring or Summer pruning, be careful not to dei-
troy the germs of future fruits ; but merely remove all un-
serviceable sprigs. In the Winter season, makeyour selec-
tion from the wood shoots of the preceding year ; keep those
which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which
seem redundant. Beginners had better prefer the Spring,
as the buds will then be a guide for them to go by ; but this
business must not be delayed too late in the season, as some
kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned
untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, <fcc., before
the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily
stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING.

with melted wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece of
bladder ; or peel off the outside bark to some distance
from the place ; and then press into the pores of the
wood, a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to
the consistence of putty. Vines will bleed in Autumn as well
as in Spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive
is timely or early pruning in the Spring; and not pruning
until the wood is thoroughly ripe in Autumn.

With respect to the manner in which vines, and some
particular kinds of trees should be trained, opinions are
at variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight
and direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and
others in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained on low
walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training
may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from
a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on
each side.

It has been remarked, th.it in order to be a good trainer
of vines, a man* must have some forethought, and be capable
of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre-
determine how he shall prune, ani where he shall cut at the
end of the season ; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to
his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with
respect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of
its rapid growth and docility.

In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud.
Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt
to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre-
vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of
injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood.
In the cutting out of old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping
direction, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to
prevent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being
finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood
be carefully peeled off, observing not to injure the sound
bark, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, <fec.
Let the shoots and branches be afterwards regularly laid in,
at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots
that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. •

not so material how near the young shoots be placed to the
old, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose
strands of fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with ; and
observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots
and branches next season.

By attending to the proper pruning of fruit trees, every
advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in
other respects, wood may not only be obtained but preserved
in every part of the tree, and so that it will bear down to the
very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the
gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and will be equally
conducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees
are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a supply
of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neglected,
and they become naked, it is, some time before a supply can
be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take care to
cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middles of all
standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is re-
quisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be rag-
ged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the knife
does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged.

The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per-
formed by many persons at any time from Autumn to Spring,
and it may be so done without any great injury to them,
provided that mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and
the wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous
to prune trees early in the Winter, when the wood is well
ripened, yet when the wood is green and the buds have not
arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in such instances to
defer pruning until Spring, taking care, however, that it is
performed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of
this arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not
ripened in Autumn, the sap is then in an active state,
and will continue so until the frost, &c. cause it to become
stagnant, and if the shoots were shortened whilst the sap
was in motion, the buds would be considerably injured,
and the tree weakened ; such unripe shoots are also more
liable to suffer by the severity of Winter, and when the pru-
ning is deferred nntil Spring, all such parts as may have

254 ON TRAINING ANl)

been affected by the weather, can be removed to the extent
to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning
of such unripe wood in the Autumn would be injurious, so
it frequently is when it is done during Winter, and the more
so, according to the severity of it ; because, whenever a cut
is made on such green-wood, the frost generally affects it,
as the sap is not dense nor the wood so firm, as to be able to
resist its intenseness.

Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should
be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ;
this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the
fan or horizontal method. For espalier trees the horizontal
method has many advantages over any other ; the small
compass in which the trees are obliged to be kept, requires
such a direction for the branches, in order to make them
fruitful. And were very high trellises formed, so as to ad-
mit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such would
be very objectionable, by reason of the shade- they would
_ cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of
a warmer temperature, which those less elevated receive.

As some young gardeners may not know what is meant
by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers
are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a
frame or trellis of wood work ; they produce large fruit
plentifully, without taking up much room,and may be planted
in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its
other products. For espalier fruit trees in the open ground,
a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed
of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work,
according to taste or fancy.

The implements employed in pruning, and the manner of
using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is
commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed
up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed
on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the
branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw
will be occasionally wanted ; but an axe or hatchet should
never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and
tear the bark, and disfigure the tree.

255
BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES.

Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations
that equally depend for their success upon the property that
buds possess of shooting roots downwards and stems up-
wards ; but in these practices, the roots strike between the
bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and
form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres.
The success of such practices, however, depends upon other
causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings-
It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between
the scion and the stoek, so that when the descending fibres
of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of
the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation
No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable
kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong
tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in
contact with each other.

BUDDING, OR INOCULATING.

To bud trees, let the following method be adopted : pro-
cure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp ivory
handle ; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the
handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the
buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass
in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from
healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When
all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely,
and from the middle of this cut make another downwards,
at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in
the form of a T; then take one of your sprigs, and with ex-
pedition proceed to take off a bud : this is effected by enter-
ing the knife a little more than half an inch below the bud
or eye ; force your knife into the wood, drawing it under the
bud, and cut the piece" off across the shoot ; then imme-
diately let that part of the wood which was cut off with the
bud, be separated from it, which may be readily done with

256 . OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING.

the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and
wood at one end, and holding the bark in one hand, pull off*
the woody part with the other, which will readily conie from
the bark, if the tree from which it was taken be in vigorous
'condition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the
bud remains perfect ; if there is no hole in it, let it be imme-
diately inserted into the stock, observing* for the reception
of it, to raise with the handle of your knife the bark of the
stock downwards on each side from the cross cut, and thrust
the buc! in between the bark and the wood, applying it as
close as possible. As soon as the bud is put in its place, tie
it round securely with bass, beginning a little below the cut,
and proceeding upwards, till you are above the cross cut,
taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just that it may be
seen through the bandage of the bass. About a week or
ten days after the stocks have been budded, they should be
examined, when such as have united will appear fresh and
full, and those that have not taken will appear decayed ; in
the former case the bandage may be left off, and in the
latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, pro-
vided the first operation was done in the month of July or
early in Aiignst, as these are two of the most preferable
months for budding fruit trees in general. Budding is?
however, often attended with success, if done early in
September.

SCALLOP BUDDING is performed by cutting from a small
stock, a thin narrow scallop of woodj about an inch in
length, and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the
same length ; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at
top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and
firmly bound with wet bass matting. This maybe performed
in the Spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the
month of July. The French practise this mode on roses.

GRAFTING.

Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting
it into another, in such a manner that both may unite closely,

OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 257

and become one tree. These shoots are called scions or
grafts, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing
some descriptions of stocks, the following hints are sub-
mitted.

That those scions are best which can be taken from the
lateral or horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicu-
lar shoots. The shoots of Apples, &c., should be taken
from healthy trees late in Autumn, or before the buds begin
to swell in the Spring; and buried half of their length in
the ground, or in a cool and dry cellar ; there to remain
until the season of grafting.

For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed
down near to the ground. In Nurseries, Apples intended
for standards, are generally grafted about nine inches high
only, allowing them to grow up standard high, and forming
their heads upon the second year's shoots. In cider coun-
tries, the stock is generally trained up standard high ; and
when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafted
the height at which it is intended the head of the tree shall
be formed. As respects trees in general, directions will be
found under appropriate heads.

The business of grafting is generally performed in March
and April : there are various methods of grafting, but the
following are those most generally practised.

CLEFT GRAFTING. — This mode of grafting is generally
practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter,
and may be performed in the following manner : — Let the
head of the stock be carefully sawed oft' at a part free from
knots, and the top pared smooth ; then with a thin knife
split down the stock through the centre, to the depth of
about two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the
reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the
form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part,
and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion
and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks
require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four
are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with bass,
and then cover the grafted part with well prepared clay,
in an oval form, and close it securely.

28*

255 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING.

SIDE GRAFTING. — This mode is sometimes practised on
those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are
two ways in which it maybe performed. 1st. The scion
may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting.,
and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ;
the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, must
be bound on and covered with clay. 3d. The scion being
cut sloping, a cfbss-cut is to be made in the side of the tree
on the top of a perpendicular slit ; the bark of the tree
above the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the
wood, and the bark raised, as in budding ; the scion being,
then inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay.

SPLICE, OR WHIP GRAFTING.- — This mode is often prac-
tised on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion,
and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should
consist of young wood of the former year's growth, may be
cut to the length of about four inches. This and the stock
are each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued.
Tongueing consists in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope
of the stock downwards, and a corresponding slit in the scion
upwards ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides,
if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then to be securely
bound with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay, or
compostion. As soon as the scion and stock are completely
united, the bass string may be removed.

SADDLE GRAFTING. — The celebrated Mr. Knight prac-
tised this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper
part of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two
sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by
splitting it upwards, and paring out the middle part on each
side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal
size, the adjustment may be made perfect ; but if unequal,
one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a
string of bass matting, and covered with composition or
clay ; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect
union has taken place.

ROOT GRAFTING. — This operation is often performed on
grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual

OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING'* 251>

mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or
pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scared.

GRAFTING BY APPROACH. — The trees, or shrubs, to be
grafted, must be growing very near to those which are to
furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree,
which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long slo-
ping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre ; and the
parts of each tree thus prepared, are to be brought together,
and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the
bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then
be covered with clay or composition ; and when a complete
union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated
with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction.

GRAFTING CLAY may be made in the following manner :
Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow
manure, and good stiff clay ; add to this a portion of hair,
and work it together in the same manner as masons mix
their mortar. It should be well beaten, and incorporated
several days before it is required to be used.

To MAKE GRAFTING COMPOSITION. — Take equal parts of
rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow ; melt these together
tjnd mix thsm, then pour the composition into cold water,
and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands
until it attains a due consistence. It may be spread on
brown paper, which cut into strips of suitable size, is quickly
applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the breath,
so as to become adhesive.

OX THE

CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY.

IN the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention
are necessary ; for, to have trees that do not answer the
expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment.
As the young gardener may need such directions as are
calculated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour to
furnish them. Of whatever species or variety of fruit trees
aie wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight

260 ON THE CHOICE OF

and of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been
grafted or budded, be careful to select such as have been
worked on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into
old crooked stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees
that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining bark ;
such as are mossy, or have a rough wrinkled bark, or are
the least affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is
discoverable in the young wood, and generally two or three
inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot,
Nectarine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the
lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you
select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the
ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each
stock, for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought
to so handsome a form.

In some of the following articles, I have shown that
several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety,
even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or
five years' growth, after heading down, that are healthy, and
well furnished with fruit-bearing wood, close up to the cen-
tre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very well; but
great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and planting
such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion
of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or
damage them ; for want of attention to these points, trees
often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding all due
eaution) any roots have been accidentally broken, split, or
otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut offj
or if they cannot be well ^spared, let the damaged or bruised
part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a portion
of the following composition be spread over the wound, in
order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure
the tree. To equal parts of soft soap and tarr add a little bees-
wax ; let them be boiled together, and when cold they may
be used. ^ The necessity of pruning-in and dressing man-
gled roots, is more particularly required in trees of the stone
fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c. -t
for without the application of some remedy, they gum at the
roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materially

FRT7IT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 261

injures the upper part of the trees, which may become so
affected as never to recover afterwards ; therefore, great
care should be taken not to occasion such injury ; and
when accidents happen, all due caution and application are
necessary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth.

A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly
corresponding to the branches ; at least, it should have one
strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree,
with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy
roots are always smooth and clear, the colour of them varies
a little according to the sort of the tree, but the older the
roots are, the darker the colour is.

After the tree is taken up, be careful in conveying it to
the place where it is to be planted, so that the roots are not
chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed a consider-
able distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or
otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised
roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but
if it be necessary to prune away any sound good roots, such
pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In
pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear
cut, and in a sloping direction, letting the slope be towards
the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to
lodge upon the part so cut. AVhcn trees are planted at an
advanced season, in the Spring of the year, it will be neces-
sary to prune the tops ; and if trees are removed that have
been trained three or four years, and are not properly
supplied with young wood, they must be cut down either
wholly or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In
practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c.,
always prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the
cut, as it is very rare they will push a shoot below, unless
there be a lead. This attention is not so particularly required
in the Pear, &c., as such will generally push forth shoots,
although no leading ones were left : but in all kinds, the
younger the wood is, the more certain arc shoots to be
produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or
two years, should only have one good strong leading shoot,
and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from

262 ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NUBSERY.

it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten
the strong one, from which a handsome head may after-
wards be formed. For further directions, as respects
pruning or planting fruit trees, &c., the reader is referred
to the preceding articles on these subjects ; and as respects
any species of fruit in particular, directions will be found
under its distinct head.

In order to assist the reader to make a judicious choice
of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such
species and varieties as are in great repute for every good
quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully
perused " Prince's Pomological Manual," " Kenrick's
American Orchardist," " Lindley's Guide to the Orchard
and Fruit Garden," and Manning's descriptive catalogue of
fruits; besides these important guides, I had the select
catalogues of different nurserymen before me, and have
chosen such only as have been most generally recommended-
In doing this, I have had difficulties to contend with, the
nature of which none but those who have duly considered
the subject can form any idea. The facility with which
seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with
which people are apt to regard their own seedlings, have
occasioned hundreds of names to appear in the various
catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the large and
increasing list of fruits.

In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and
other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to
the same variety, consequently some fruits appear in the
different catalogues under all the varied names ; and the
patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining
which are really distinct varieties, and which are most
worthy of cultivation, are correspondingly great.

In making out the descriptive lists, I have generally
adopted the names given in the catalogue of Mr. Michael
Floy, of the Harlem Nursery, as a heading; and have
caused the synonymes, or names by which the same variety
is known, or has been called, to be printed in italics ; thus,
my lists of about 300 varieties of the various species of fruit,
will embrace what has been deemed by some as different
varieties, perhaps to the number of a thousand*

APPLE. 263

IN preparing the following articles, the object has
been to furnish such information as was thought best calcu-
lated to entertain, as well as to instruct the reader. Besides
the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those inexhaust-
ible treasures to horticulturists, London's Encyclopaedia of
Plants, and that of Gardening; but on account of the
brevity necessarily observed throughout this work, it has
been found impracticable to give many entire extracts ;
suffice it to say, that the historical facts are generally
collected from these sources.

APPLE.

POMMIER. Pyrus malus.

THE Apple being so closely connected with our wants
and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the cata-
logue of our fruits, The Apple Orchard is in truth the
vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that
can be obtained from some of the varieties of this excel-
lent fruit being calculated to cheer the invalid, as well aa
to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration.
It is one of our oldest and best fruits, and has become
completely naturalized to our soil ; none can be brought to
so high a degree of perfection with so little trouble; and of
no other are there so many excellent varieties in general
cultivation, calculated for almost every soil, situation and
climate, which our country affords.

The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great
age : Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England,
that attained a thousand years, and were highly prolific ;
but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary
duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and
planted in a strong tenacious soil. Speechly mentions a
tree in an Orchard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, of
about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven
to nine yards round the bole, which in some seasons pro-
duced upwards of one hundred bushels of apples*

264 APPLE.

The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in Pliny's
time. There are upwards of fifteen hundred now cultivated
in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under
name ; the catalogue of the Linnasan Botanic Garden at
Flushing, contains over four hundred ; and one of our
enterprising horticulturists, Mr. Wm. Coxe, of Burlington,
New Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thirtjMhree kinds
cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are
usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider fruits ; the
first high-flavoured, the second such as fall or become mel-
low in baking or boiling, and the third austere, and
generally fruit of small size. Besides this division, Apples
are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat
pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles
or white skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, codlings or
falling fruits, and some are denominated burknots.

The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts
by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting
on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for
dwarfing, on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All
the principal varieties are cultivated as standards in the
orchard, and should be planted from thirty to forty feet from
each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that
the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the
fruit.

Many of the dwarf kinds may bo introduced into the
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf stan-
dards. An Apple Orchard may be planted at any time
after the trees are two years old from the graft ; and as trees
from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten
or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at
any time within that period.

Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties, by
being headed down to standard height : in very old subjects,
most commonly, the branches only are cut within afoot or
two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft man-
ner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of
bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short
robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which

LIST OF APPLES* 265

spring from the younger branches of two or more years'
growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and extending
gradually to the side : the same bearing branches and fruit
spurs continue many years fruitful.

PRUNING. — As from the mode of bearing, Apple trees do
not admit of shortening in the general bearers, it should only
be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the
most desirable form when three or four years old, they should
be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches*
In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut,
unless in cases of decay ; but all superfluous cross branches
and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi-
cated. Espaliers require a Summer and Winter pruning.

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES,

VMMER FRUIT.

AMERICAS SUMMER PEARMAIN, Early Summer Pearmain. This ap*
pie is of medium size and oblong form; its colour bright red on the
sunny side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with
red ; the flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavoured and excellent. It
ripens early in August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking.
Tree a good bearer.

EARLY BOUGH, Sweet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from me-
dium to large ; its colour pale yellow ; its form oblong ; its skin smooth ;
flesh tender, juicy, swe^t and excellent; ripens earl}' in August.

EARLY CROFTO.V, or Irish Peach Apple. An Irish apple, of the middle
size and flattish shape ; of an olive green colour, much variegated with
red ; has a rich saccharine flavour ; ripens in August ; it is much esteemed
for the dessert, and excellent also as a sauce apple. The tree grows
well, and is not apt to canker.

EARLY HARVEST, July Pippin. A very early apple of bright straw
colour; flesh white and tender ; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The
tree bears young, and makes a fine garden espalier ; ripening its fruit
in July and August.

EARLY RED MARGARET, Red Juneating, Early Striped Juneating,
Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin greenish
yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red ; flesh white, juicy,
breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable ; early in August.

RED As PRACAX. This beautiful apple is of medium size and roundish ;
the skin is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum ; the flesh is
white, tender, and somewhat acid ; at perfection early in August.

23

266 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES.

RED QUAREWDBN, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A much
esteemed Devonshire apple; of medium size; skin of an uniform deep
rich crimson, with numerous green dots intermixed ; flesh of a brisk,
pleasant, and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple ; from
August to November; tree very productive.

SPRING GROVE CODLING. Fruit of the usual codling shape; skin pale,
greenish yellow, tinged with orange on the sunny side ; flesh tender ;
juice saccharine, a little acid, mixed with a very slight perfume ; good
from August to November.

SUMMER ROSE, Harvest Apple. A very beautiful and excellent fruit,
of moderate size and round form ; the skin is yellow, striped and mottled
with red; the flesh is sweet, juicy and fine ; in July and August ; tree a
great bearer.

SUMMER PIPPIN, Pie Apple. This fruit in size and shape resembles
the Fall Pippin ; it differs in having a little more red on the sunny side,
aud in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular
npple in New Jersey.

WILLIAMS'S FAVOURITE RED. This apple originated in Roxbury,
Mass.; it is of medium size, oblong form: the skin a bright and deep
red ; the flavour pleasant end agreeable. The tree is a good bearer, and
it* fruit commands a good price in the Boston markets ; in August and
September.

AUTUMN FRUIT.

ALEXANDER, Emperor Alexander, APORTA. Fruit very large, some-
what cordate, smallest at the crown; of a greenish yellow colour, striped
or marbled with red ; pulp tender, sweet, rich and aromatic ; ripens in
October, and lasts till Christmas. Though a large, hardy tree, it is a
medium bearer, but a magnificent fruit.

AMERICAN NONPAREIL. A beautiful apple of medium size and ob-
long form ; its colour yellow, streaked and stained with red on the sunny
side ; flesh firm, juicy and agreeable. A very fine market apple in Oc-
tober and November.

DOWELL'S PIPPIN. In size and form this apple resembles the Rib-
stone Pippin, but is more pointed at the head, and the eye is sunk in a
more confined and deeper cavity ; the skin is green, nearly covered with
a clear thin russet, and a slight tinge of brownish red on the sunny side>
an excellent dessert apple ; from October to Christmas.

DOWNTON -PIPPIN, E'ton Golden Pippin, Knight's Golden Pippin,
The Downton Golden Pippin is a most abundant bearer, and the fruit
extremely well adapted for market; it is rather larger than the common
Golden Pippin; skin nearly smooth; yellow, sprinkled with numerous
•pecks ; flesh yellowish, crisp, with a brisk, rich, sub-acid juice. Ripe in
October and November, and will keep good till Christmas.

DRAP D'Oa OF FRANCE, Cloth of Gold. This apple is very large
and handsome; its form globular; its colour a fine yellow, with dark

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. " 267

specks; its fltsh white, firm, and rich flavoured. A most productive
variety ; in perfection from September to November.

ENGLISH CODLING, Codling of Coxe. Fruit very large and handsome ;
of oblong form ; its skin a fine yellow, with red blush on the sunny side ;
its flesh white, tender, and of an agreeable acidity. A good marketable
apple for the table, and for cooking ; from September to November; tree
handsome and productive. .

FALL PIPPIN. Cobbett's Fall Pippin. Reinnete Blanche D'Espagnt,
D'Espagne, De Rateau, Concomlre Ancien, White Spanish Reinette, Ca-
muesar. This extremely valuable variety stands in the first class of Au-
tumn fruits ; being very large ; its form is roundish oblong ; skin smooth?
yellowish green, tinged with orange ; flesh yellowish, crisp and tender -
vvith a vjery rich sugary juice. It ripens in October, and keeps well as a
Fall Apple.

FAMEOSE. Pomme de Neige. A Canadian Apple of great beauty ; in
size medium ; skin light green, stained with bright red ; flesh white, very
tender ; juice saccharine, with a musky perfume ; ripe in October, and
will keep good till Christmas.

FRANKLIN GOLDEN PIPPIN. Fruit a medium size, conical, of a golden
yellow colour, with gray and dark-coloured specks ; it ripens in Novem*
ber, and continues till March; flesh firm, and highly aromatic; tree
rather slender, and middling bearer, but an excellent fruit.

GOLDBN RPSSET, Aromatic Russet. A dessert apple, of medium aize,
and of a pale copper-coloured russet; in great repute for its rich saccha*
rine, aromatic, and slightly musky flavour. The tree is hardy and very
productive ; in October and November.

GRA.VEXSTEII*. Fruit rather large and compressed; of a yellowish
green colour, striped with red ; flesh crisp, and high flavoured ; ripens
in October, and lasts till April. This variety originated in Germany, and
is considered the best dessert apple in that country.

KENRICK:S RED AUTUMN. A native apple of larsreish dimension!',
raised by John Kenr'ck, Esq. of Newton, Mass. ; colour pale green in
the shade, but bright red next the sun, and streaked with deeper red ; the
flesh white, stained more or less with red ; tender, juicy and rich, with
an agreeable sub-acid flavour ; ripe in October.

KILHAM HILL. This apple, one of the most saleable varieties in
Salem markets, originated on the farm of Dr. Kilham, in Wenham, Essex
County, Mass.; the size is above medium; form a little oblong; the
skin yellow, striped with red ; the flesh is yellow and high flavoured;
from September to November,

ORANGE SWEETING, Yellow Sweeting. This variety is much cultivated
near Hartford, in Connecticut, for the Boston, Providence and Philadel-
phia markets ; the fruit is rather large, flattened at its base and summit ;
the colour yellow, or orange ; flesh very sweet and excellent ; from Sep-
tember to December.

RED INGESTRIC. A first-rate dessert apple, of medium size, and bright
yellow colour, deeply tinged with red ; raised by Mr, Knight,

268

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES.

of the London Horticultural Society. The tree bears well in America,
and ripens its fruit in October, which is very rich, juicy, high flavoured,
and grateful to the palate..

RAMBO, OR ROMAN ITE, Seek no Farther. This apple is much cultiva-
ted in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Its form is flat, resembling the
Vandervere in appearance, but is a more juicy fruit; the skin pale yel-
low, streaked with red ; flesh tender and sprightly during the Autumn
months.

RED AND GREKN SWEETING, Prince's Large Red and Green Sweeting.
The fruit is of oblong shape ; colour green, striped with red ; the pulp
is very sweet, tender, and of delicious flavour ; from September to No-
vember.

STROAT, Straat. A fine Autumn Appl< , introduced by the late Jesse
Buel, Esq. of Albany ; in size medium ; form rather oblong ; skin yel-
lowish green; flesh yellow and tender; juice rich and lively; in use
from September to December.

YORK RUSSETING. A very large russetty apple, well known abou*
Boston. Its form is rather oblong; its flesh pleasant and agreeably
acid ; an excellent apple ; from. October to December.

WINTER FRUIT*

^Esopus SPITZENBURG. A beautiful apple; large and oval; of red
colour, covered with numerous white specks ; the flesh is yellowish ;
slightly acid, and of the finest flavour ; ripens in October, and continues
good till February.

BALDWIN. No apple in the B.ostoii markets is more popular than
vhis; it is rather above medium size ; its ferm round; its colour bright
red, streaked with yellow ; its flesh is yellow, juicy, rich, saccharine*
with a most agreeable acid flavour. The tree bears fruit abundantly,
which ripens in November, and keeps till February or March.

BALTIMORE. A remarkably large apple, raised by Mr. Smith, near
Baltimore City ; a specimen of the fruit was sent to London, as recorded
in the London Hert. Trans, vol, 3, p. 120, weighing twenty-three
ounces and a half; its form was flat ; skin a pale citron, with a faint
blush on the sunny side; flesh good flavoured, and close at the core ; its
circumference was fourteen inches arid three quarters, and height four
inches. %

BARCELONA PEARMAIN, Speckhd Golden Reinette, Reinetle Rouge,
Reinette Rousse, Keinette des carmes, Glace Rouge, Kleiner Casseler Re-
inette. This variety is said to be a very productive and excellent dessert
apple ; fruit of medium size ; oval, not angular ; colour brownish yel-
low in the shade, deep red next the sun; flesh firm, yellowish, with a
rich aromatic agreeable acid ; from November till February.

BELL FLOWER. A very large and beautiful apple, its colour bright
yellow, with an occasional blush on the sunny side; its form oblong;
the flesh tender, juicy, rich, and finely flavoured, and is alike excellent

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP APPLES. '

Tor the dessert or for cooking. It ripens early in November, and will
keep all the winter.

BLENHEIM PIPPIN, Woodstock Pippin, Blenheim Orange. Fruit
large, roundish, of a yellowish colour, tinged with red next the sun ;
pulp sweet and high flavoured ; ripe in November, and keeps till March ;
a very superior dessert apple.

BLUE PEARMAIX. This variety is well known about Boston as a
large apple, of red colour, covered with a dense blue bloom, and of a
delicious flavour ; good as a dessert or for cooking ; from October to
January. The tree grows strong, and is very productive.

Court T PENDU, Capendu, Court Pendu Plat, Garnon's Apple An
estimable dessert apple, of medium size ; in shape round, depressed ;
the colour yellow, a good deal covered with full red; it is of a high sac-
charine flavour and of close consistence ; the fruit keeps till February
or March. The tree grows upright, and bears well.

DANVER'S WINTER SWEET. This variety originated on the farm of
W. P. Enuict, Esq, of Danvers, near Saltm, Mass.; fruit of medium
size ; a little oblong ; skin yellow, slightly tinged with red ; its flesh
sweet and excellent cooked, or as dessert; from November to April.

GOLDE.V HARVEY, Brandy Apple. A dessert apple, not larger than
the Golden Pippin ; colour light yellow, with a flush of red, and em
broidered with a roughish russet. It is called Brandy Apple from the
superior specific strength of its juice, being 1085; it is of remarkably
close texture, very rich in flavour, and will keep till April or May.

GREE>* SWEET, Green Sweeting. This apple is much cultivated in
Massachusetts. It is of medium size ; the skin dull green, approaching
to yellow ; the flesh very sweet and delicious. It possesses the valuable
property of retaining its soundness till May or June.

HAWTHORDEN. The fruit is large, rather flat, and of a pale greenish
yellow, tinged with blush on one side ; it ripens in August, and continues
till January ; the pulp soft, juicy and acid; a very hardy tree ; a great
bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes.

HUBBARDSTOX No.vsucH. A large apple of globular form ; red and
yellow colour, streaked and blotched; the flesh is juicy and of excellent
flavour ; from December to Ma ch. The tree is of vigorous growth, a
great bearer, and worthy of extensive cultivation.

LADY APPLE, Pommc d'Api. Fruit small, flat ; of pale yellow co-
lour, tinged with a deep red on the side ; flesh crisp, sprightly and plea-
sant ; ripens in November, and continues till April. It is a very sale-
able fruit on account of its great beauty.

LEMON- PIPPIN. An old and much esteemed dessert apple; of me-
dium size and oval shape, much like a lemon both in form and colour,
having a firm texture, brisk flavour, and plenty of acid; from October
to March. Tree handsome, and a great bearer.

MALCARLE, Charles Apple, Mela Carle, Pomme Finale. A far-famed
fruit. In the climate of Ita;y, this is supposed to be the best apple in
the world. It is cultivated extensively in the territories of Genoa, as an

23*

2T70 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP APPLES.

article of export and commerce to Nice, Barcelona, Cadiz, and Mar-
seilles. The fruit is rather large, its form inclining to globular. Its
beautiful waxen skin is a little marbled with a very faint green near the
eye ; its colour in the shade is a pale yellow, tinged with flaming crimson
next the sun ; the flesh is white, tender, delicate, sweet, with the fra-
grant perfume of roses. It ripens in September, and will keep till
Spring.

MONSTROUS PIPPIN, New-York Gloria Mundi. Fruit of enormous
size, often weighing twenty -five ounces or more ^ of a pale lemon co--
lour; flesh tender, and of a sprightly flavour, excellent ft »r cooking ;.
ripens in October, and continues fit for use till January.

NEWTOWN PIPPIN, American Newtown Pippin, Yellow Newtown
Pippin. This variety, when perfectly matured, is considered by some
as the finest apple in our country \ its skin is green, changing to an
olive yellow at maturity, having a thin russet covering the greatest
part of the base ; flesh pale yellow and firm; juice saccharine, and pos-
sessing a rich and highly aromatic flavour ; from December to April.

NEWTOWN SPITZENBURG, Matchless. A beautiful apple of medium
size ; skin streaked, and tinged with red and yellow ; tlesh yellow, rich
and highly flavoured ; from October till February.

NORFOLK BEAUFIN. Fruit middling size, flattish, of a deep red and
pale green colour ; it ripens in November, and is frequently to be ob-
tained in England in July following ; the flesh is firm and savoury ; the
tree hardy, upright, a good bearer; fruit excellent for use in the kitchen,
and highly esteemed for the dessert.

ORTLKY PIPPIN, Ortley Apple. A fruit very much resembling the
Yellow Newtown Pippin, but a little more oval ; skin bright yellow in
the shade, and bright scarlet with russetty spots next the sun; flesh yel-
lowish, crisp and breaking ; very juicy, with the same pine apple flavour
which distinguishes the Newtown Pippin; geod from November to
April.

PENNOCK'S RED WINTER Fruit very large and compressed; of
deep red colour, streaked with yellow ; flesh tender, juicy, and of sweet
and pleasant flavour ; ripens in November, and will keep good till
March. It is a very popular apple in the Philadelphia markets.

P. NE APPLE RUSSET, Hardingham's Russet. This delicious apple u
above the middle size, roundi-h, ovate ; skin pale greenish yellow, with
white specks, and partially russetty; juice abundant; flesh of a spicy t
aromatic, pine-apple flavour, hence its name ; ripe in September.

RHODE ISLAND GREENING* Fruit large and depressed at maturity ;
greenish yellow ; slightly acid, and ef the finest flavour; ripens in No-
vember, and continues till April. A most estimable apple for cooking
as well as for the dessert.

RIBSTONE Pippric, ^Formosa Pippin, Traver's Apple, Glory of York.
Fruit of medium size, roundish, and partially depressed; of a pale yel-
low colour, tinged with red; pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour;
ripens in November, and continues till April It i» one of the most
popular dessert apples in England.

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP APPLES. 271

ROXBURY RUSSET. This variety is cultivated extensively in Massa-
chusetts for the Boston markets, and for exportation. The fruit is of
medium size ; of a fine yellow ru-set colour, mixed with dull red ; flesh
white, juicy, rich, sub-acid and excellent ; for use in Winter, and will
keep till June

SWAAR APPLE. A much celebrated Winter table fruit in some parts
of New York and New Jersey ; it is a large green apple of uncommon
flavour and richness ; highly deserving cultivation in every collection of
fine fruit ; good till March.

VANDEVERE. An apple of medium size, the form flat; skin pale red,
with rough yellowish blotches ; flesh yellow and tender ; juice plentiful,
rich and sprightly ; from October to January.

WHITS: WINTER CALVILLE, Calville Blanche (THiver, Bonnet carre.
This fruit is large ; its colour at maturity bright yellow, tinged with red ;.
its form rather flat ; flesh white, tender, and pleasant; from November
to March. Tree an abundant bearer.

WINE APPLE, Hay's Winter, Large Winter Red. A variety highly
esteemed in the Philadelphia markets; the fruit is large; of bright red
colour, striped with yellow, the stalk end russetty ; its flesh is rich, aro-
matic, and pleasant ; from October to February. The tree bears young
and abundantly.

WINTER SWEETING, Graften Sweeting, Seaver Sweeting. This apple
is large ; its skin smooth, of a bright yellow colour, tinged with blush ;
its flesh yellow, juicy, sweet, and fine flavoured ; from November until
March.

CIDER FRUIT.

CAMPFIELD, OR NEWARK SWEETING. This apple is next in reputa-
tion, as a cider fruit, to the Harrison, and is often mixed with that apple
jn equal proportions when ground ; it is of the middle size, skin smooth,-
of red and yellow colour ; the flesh is white, firm, sweet, and rich.

GRANNIWINKLE. Fruit of moderate size, rather oblong; the skin a
dark red, somewhat rough ; flesh yellow, sweet and rich. It is com-
monly mixed with the Harrison for making cider of a superior quality ;
ripe in November.

HEWE'S VIRGINIA CRAB. From this fruit is obtained the celebrated
Crab Cider ; it is of small size, nearly round ; skin of a dull red, streaked
with greenish yellow ; the flesh is fibrous and astringent ; juice acid and
austere.

HARRISON*. This fruit is much celebrated in New Jersey as a cider
apple ; it is somewhat ovate, below the middle size ; the skin is yellow,
with black spots ; flesh yellow, firm, rich and sprightly. Ten buahels
will make a barrel of exquisite cider, from which may be taken fourteeu
quart* of distilled spirits.

272
APRICOT.

ABRICOTIER. Prunus Armeniaca*

THE fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the Peach,
and as it ripens three or four weeks earlier, should be more
generally cultivated. The flowers appear in April, on the
shoots of the preceding year, and on spurs of two or more
years' growth, and the fruit ripens in July and August. The
London Horticultural Society's catalogue describes fifty-
four sorts, and Messrs. Prince have forty-four in their cata-
logue ; besides these, is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit,
supposed to be a hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot.

Our enterprising fellow-citizen, Mr. Wm. Shaw, has suc-
ceeded for many years in maturing large quantities of this
excellent fruit on standards; but they ripen best when trained
against close fences. In England some of the varieties are
cultivated as standards and espaliers ; they seldom bear much
fruit under ten or twelve years ; and then the fruit is abun-
dant and of the finest flavour. They are commonly culti-
vated as wall trees, in an East or West aspect ; for if thCy
are planted to face the South, the great heat causes them to
be mealy before they are eatable. New varieties are procured
from'seed, as in the Peach, and approved sorts are perpetu-
ated by budding on plum stocks, &c.

The varieties of the Apricot, in genera], bear chiefly upon
the young shoots of last year, and casually upon small spurs
rising on the two or three years old fruit branches. The
Moor Park bears chiefly on the last year's shoots, and on
close spurs formed on the two year old wood. The bearing
shoots emit the blossom buds immediately from the eyes
along the sides, and the buds have a round and swelling
appearance.

Apricot trees may be planted at any time after the head
is formed : some head them down in the nursery bed, and
remove them to their destined places when five or six
years old.

Standards will require only occasional pruning to regulate
such branches as may be too numerous, too extended OE

APRICOT. 273

cross formed, and to remove any casually unfruitful parts
and dead wood ; but the regular branches, forming the head
of the tree, should not be shortened unless necessary.

The general culture of the wall Apricots comprehends a
Summer and Winter course of regulation, by pruning and
training. The fan method is generally adopted, but some
prefer training horizontally. With young trees some contrive
to fill the wall by heading down twice a year.

The Winter, or early Spring management, comprehends
a general regulation both of the last year's shoots and the
older branches. A general supply of the most regularly
situated young shoots must be every where retained, for
successionul bearers the ensuing year. Cut out such
branches as are not furnished with competent supplies of
young wood, or with fruit spurs, to make room for training
a general supply of the most promising branches retained.
Generally observe in this pruning to retain one leading
shoot at the end of each branch; either a naturally placed
terminal, or one formed by cutting (where a vacancy is to
be furnished) into a proper leader. Let the shoots retained
for bearers be moderately shortened : reduce strong shoots
in the least proportioned — cutting off one-fourth or less of
their length ; from weak shoots take away a third, and
sometimes a half. This shortening will conduce to the
production of a competency of lateral shoots the ensuing
Summer, from the lower and middle placed eyes ; whereas
without it, the new «hoots would proceed mostly from the
top, and leave the underpartof the principal branches naked,
and the lower and middle parts of the tree unfurnished with
proper supplies of bearing wood. Never prune below all
the blossom buds, except to provide wood, in which case
cut nearer to the origin of the branch. As, in these trees,
small fruit spurs, an inch or two long, often appear on some
of the two or three years' branches furnished with blossom
buds, these spurs should generally be retained for bearing.
As each tree is pruned, nail it, laying in the branches and
shoots from three to six inches distance, straight or close to
the fence or wall.

The Summer pruning is principally to regulate the young

274 APRICOT.

shoots of the same year. In the first place, take off close
all the irregular fdremost shoots, taking care to retain a
competent supply of choice side shoots, with a good leader
to each parent branch. Continue these mostly at full length
all the Summer, regularly trained in, to procure a sufficiency
to choose from in the general Winter pruning, for new
bearers the next year.

If the Summer regulation commences early, while the
shoots are quite young, and, as it were, herbaceous, those
improper to retain may be detached with the finger and
thumb, i but when of firmer growth, they must be removed
with the knife. If any very strong shoots rise in any part
where the wood is deficient, they may be topped in June?
which will cause them to produce several laterals the same
year, eligible for training in, to supply the vacancy.

Sometimes the fruit is much too numerous, if not attacked
by insects, often growing in clusters ; in which case thin
them while in a young green state, leaving the most pro-
minent fruit singly, at three or four inches distance, or from
about two to six on the respective shoots, according to their
strength. The Apricots so thined off, and the first prin-
cipal green fruit, are very fine for tarts.

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APRICOTS,

BREDA, Abricot de Hollande, Amande Aveline, Royal Persian Fruit
medium size, of a round form, and deep yellow colour ; the pulp is soft
and juicy ; the tree a great bearer, and the fruit which ripens early in
August, is in great esteem.

BRUSSELS.. Highly esteemed for its productiveness; fruit medium
size, inclining to an oval form ; of a yellow colour, and next the sun co-
vered with numerous dark spots ; the flesh is of a greenish yeljow colour,
of a brisk flavour; and not liable to become mealy ; ripens in August.

EARLY ORANGE, Royal George, Royal Orange. The fruit of a medium
»ize ; of a deep yellow colour, spotted with red or dark purple next the
•un ; flesh deep orange, succulent and well flavoured ; not perfectly a
free stone ; ripens early in August.

HEMSKIRKE. Fruit middle sized, roundish, slightly compressed; of a
bright yellow colour ; flesh tender, juicy, with a particularly rich, deli-
fate flavour, resembling that of the Gr^en Gage Plum ; ripe in July.

ALMOND. 275

MOORPARK, Hanson's, Temple's, Dunmore's Breda. The tree is of
vigorous growth, and extraordinarily productive ; the fruit is very large ;
of a bright gold colour, or orange, with dark spots next the sun; flesh
orange colour, melting and excellent ; ripens early in September.

MUSCH. A fine new variety from Persia ; in shape round; of a deep
yellow colour, and remarkable for the transparency of its pulp, through
which the stone is visible; the flesh is very fine and agreeable; ripens
in July.

PEACH APRICO r, Abricot PecJie, Abricot de Nancy, Imperial Ansonsf
This is a first-rate fruit ; form variable, generally flattened ; skin slightly
downy ; fawn colour next the sun, tinged with reddish spots or points ;
pulp yellow, melting, juice abundant, high flavoured and excellent;
ripen§ early in August.

PURPLE, Alexandrian Abricot, Abricot Angoumois, Abricot Violet
Black Apricot. A small, globular, downy fruit, a little oblong ; of a pate
red colour, becoming deep red or purple next the sun ; flesh pale red,
but orange next the stone ; a little acid, but good ; ripens in August.

RED MASCULIXE, Abricot Precoce, Abricot HatifMusque, Early Mascu-
line. This is an old and very early variety ; the fruit of which is small,
of a roundish form, and greenish red colour ; the pulp is tender ; the tre«
a good bearer, and the. fruit esteemed for its earliness and tart tast« ;
ripens in July.

ROYAL, Abri-ot Royale. This fruit is next in size to the Moorpark*
rather oval, compressed ; of dull yellow colour, slightly red ; flesh pale
orange, firm, juicy, sweet, and high flavoured, with a slight acid ; ripene
early in August.

TURKEY, Large Turkey. A superior Apricot; fruit of a medium size ;
deep yellow colour, with red blotches next the sun ; form globular ; flesh
firm, juicy, rich and excellent ; ripe in July and August.

ALMOND.

AMANDIER. Jlmygdalus.

ALTHOUGH Almonds are not much cultivated in this part
of our country, they are entitled to notice. The species are
fruit trees, or ornamental trees and shrubs, both much
esteemed for the gay colour and early appearance of their
flowers ; these vary in their colour from the fine blush of
the Apple blossom to a snowy whiteness. The chief
obvious distinction is in the fruit, which is flatter, with a
coriaceous covering, instead of the rich pulp of the Peach

CHERRV.

and Nectarine, opening spontaneously when the kernel is
ripe. It is a native of Barbary, China, and most Eastern
countries. There are twenty-one sorts described in the
catalogue of the Linna3an Botanic Garden at Flushing ;
some of which are represented as new kinds from France
and Italy, where they are cultivated extensively for their
fruit.

In France, they have above a dozen species or varieties,
besides a hybrid, called the Almond Peach. The common
and bitter Almond are only to be distinguished by the taste
of the kernels of their fruit, which is the only part used.
The tender-shelled is in the greatest esteem, and next, the
sweet and Jordan. The bitter cuticle, or skin of Almonds,
is taken off by immersion in boiling water.

The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a
desert in a green or imperfectly ripe, and also in a ripe or
dried state. They are much used in cookery, confectionary,
perfumery, and medicine.

The Almond is propagated by seed, for varieties1 or
for stocks; and by budding on its own, or on Plum
stocks, for continuing varieties. The Almond tree bears
chiefly on the young wood of the previous year, and in
part upon small spurs or minor branches ; it is therefore
pruned like the Apricot and Peach, and its culture in other
respects is the same.

CHERRY.

CERISIER. Prunus cerasus.

THE Cherry, of the cultivated varieties, is said to have
been first introduced into Italy in the year 73, from a town
in Pontus, in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its specific name;
and it was introduced into Britain one hundred and twenty
years afterwards.

The Romans had eight varieties of Cherries, red, black,
tender-fleshed, hard-fleshed, small bitter flavoured, and
heart-shaped. There are now upwards of two hundred in

CHERRY. 277

cultivation. Tlie French divide their Cherries into griottes,
or tender-fleshed; bigareau, or heart-shaped, and guignes,
or small fruit. The fruit of many varieties is somewhat
heart- shaped, whence they are called ox-heart, white-heart,
black-heart, &c. ; why some sorts are called dukes, is not
so obvious. The morello cherry is very different from the
other varieties, bearing almost exclusively from the preceding
year's wood, and the pulp of the fruit having the consistence
and flavour of the fungi called morel ; whence the name.
The Chinese Cherry is valuable on account of its bearing
an excellent fruit, and ripening it in forcing- ho uses.

Cherries are grafted, or budded on seedlings from Cherry
stones, and from seedlings of the red and black mazzard.
For dwarfing they are worked on the morello, or perfumed
Cherry ; the latter is preferred in Holland. In jhis country,
the budding system is more frequently practised on stone
fruit in general, than grafting.

Cherry trees, in general, produce the fruit upon small
spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches in length,
which proceed from the sides and ends of the two year,
three year and older branches, and as new spurs continue
shooting from the extreme parts, it is a maxim in pruning
both standards and espaliers, not to shorten the bearing
branches when there is room for their regular extension.

The morello is in some degree an exception, as it bears
principally on the shoots of the preceding year, the fruit
proceeding immediately from the eyes of shoots ; and
bears bat casually, and in a small degree, on close spurs
formed on the two year old wood, and scarcely ever on
wood of the third year; therefore, in pruning, leave a supply
of young shoots on all the branches from the origin to the
extremity of the tree, for next year's bearers*

All kinds of Cherry trees, except the morello, are apt to
grow very tall ; to remedy this, and to enable them to form
handsome heads, the leading shoot should be cut off, when
about three years1 growth from the bud ; after which give
only occasional pruning, to reform or remove any casual
irregularity from cross-placed or very crowded branches,
and take away all cankery and decayed wood.

24

278 CHERRY.

Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the Kitchen
Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When morellos are
planted in an orchard, they may be placed from fifteen to
twenty feet apart ; trees of the duke kind may be planted
from twenty -five to thirty feet apart ; and the heart-shaped
in general, will require to be from thirty to forty feet from
each other, or from any other spreading trees.

Cherry trees may be removed the first year after the
bud is established ; but they will bear removing at any
time before they come into bearing, which is about the
fifth year.

The gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal to
gum arabic ; and Hasselquist relates, "that more than one
hundred men, during a siege, were kept alive for nearly
two months, without any other sustenance than a little of
this gum taken sometimes into the mouth, and suffered
gradually to dissolve." The wood is hard and tough, and
used by the turner and cabinet maker.

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES.

DUKE AND ROUND FRUIT.

A MB REE, Ceiise Amlree. A large cherry with a round head, flattened
at the opposite end ; marbled with red and yellow in the shade, bright
red next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, somewhat transparent, very juicy,
sweet, and' excellent; ripe in June and July/

ARCH DUKE, Griotte de Portugal, Portugal Duke. A large globular
red cherry; like the May Duke, it grows in clusters, but the tree grows
more vigorous than that variety; an excellent Cherry, and a great
bearer ; ripe in July.

BELLE DE CHOISY, Cerise de la Palembree, Cerise Doucette. A middle-
sized, roundish fruit, growing in pairs on a forked stalk ; skin transrpa-
rerit, red, mottled with amber ; flesh amber-coloured, tender and sweet ;
ripe in June and July.

BELLE ET MAGXIFIQ,UE. A fine cherry, much esteemed in Massachu-
setts. The tree is said to be vigorous and productive ; the fruit truly
magnificent; its colour red, mottled with white spots; valuable from its
late maturity in July.

DOWNER'S FAVOURITE. A large round cherry ,raised by S. Downer,
Esq. of Dorchester, Mass.; colour light red; flesh firm and of a fine

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. *279

sprightly flavour ; ripening aftermost other superior varieties are gone,
on which account this variety is highly prized in the markets.

HOLMA.V'S DUKE. The branches of this tree are more spreading than
the May Duke ; the fruit is larger, of equally fine flavour, and ripens
about two or three weeks later, on which account it is highly esteemed.

KESTISH, Flemish. A middle-sized fruit, roundish, flattened at both
ends ; skin dingy red, marbled; flesh succulent, with a somewhat astrin-
gent but saccharine juice ; makes a delicious sweetmeat ; amd will keep
a year by laying the fruit on hair sieves exposed to the sun in July.

LA.TE DUKE, June Duke, Cerise, Anglaise, Tardive. A cherry of large
size ; flesh very rich; it ripens in July, and lasts long on the tree, im-
proving in its flavour. The tree is of vigorous growth, and an abundant
bearer.

MAT DUKE. An early globular r^d cherry, of medium size ; it ripens
in June the flesh is of a soft and an agreeable acid; the tree a good
bearer, and the fruit excellent.

MORELLO, Milan, Cerise da, Nord, English Morello, The fruit ia so
named from its juice being similar to that of the Mortis, or Mulberry.
It is a delicious, medium-sized, round cherry ; nearly black when at
maturity ; tree a great bearer ; the fruit will keep late, and is excellent
for preserving and for brandy.

PLCMSTONE MORELLO. A tree of moderate size, of the Duke or
Kentish species ; a very large, dark, round cherry, nearly black ; of a
rich acid flavour* The stone is very large, and resembles that of a
plum; a native of Virginia, introduced by Win: Prince, Esq of the
Linnaen Botanic Garden, Flushing.

WATERLOO. A large, round, dark cherry, inclining to black at matu-
rity ; the flesh is firm and of an excellent flavour ; raised by a daughter
of Mr. Knight, and so named from its perfecting its fruit soon after the
battle of Waterloo. The tree is of strong but irregular growth, and
ripens'its fruit in July.

HEART-SHAPED OR BIGARREAUS.

BIGARREAU, Graffion, Turkey Bigarreau, Yellow Spanish. Verylarge;
obtuse, heart-shaped; yellowish amber colour, but fine red next the sun ;
flesh firm, white, sweet, and well flavoured ; a beautiful and excellent
fruit ; ripe in June and July.

BLACK EAGLE. A beautiful variety raised by Miss Knight of Down-
ton Castle, 1806 : fruit of globular form, and middle size ; skin dark
purple or nearly black; flesh very tender, rich, and of excellent flavour.
The tree grows strong, very upright, and ripens its fruit early.

BLACK HEART, Guignier a Fruit noir. Fruit rather large, heart-
shaped; dark purple, approaching to black at maturity ; flesh dark red,
tender, of excellent flavour; ripe early in July; tree a good bearer.

BLACK TARTARIAN, Black Circassian, Fraser's Black Tartarian,
Slack Russian, Ranald's Large Black Heart, Fraser's Black Heart.

280 DESCBIPTIVE LIST ON CHERRIES.

A very large heart-shaped fruit, of a most superior quality ; colour dark
shining purple, or black ; flesh firm, dark red or purple ; sweet, and of
most excellent flavour; in June and July. The tree grows rapid, and
is very productive.

DOWN-TOUT. A new variety raised by Mr. Knight. Fruit rather
round, inclining to heart-shape; of a pale yellow colour, sprinkled with
minute red spots, and large patches of dull red or maroon ; flesh pale
amber coloi.fr, tender and juicy, very sweet and high flavoured; ripens
in June and July.

ELTON. This excellent variety was raised by Mr. Knight in 1806;
the tree is very vigorous and productive ; the fruit is pretty large, heart-
shaped ; pale glossy yellow in the shade, but marbled with bright red
next the sun; flesh firm, sweet and rich; ripens soon after the May
Duke.

FLORENCE. A very fine heart-shaped cherry; of a yellow amber
colour, marbled with bright red in the shade, bright red next the sui>;
tolerably firm, juicy, rich and sweet; ripe end of June and in July.

GIRDLEY, Apple Cherry. A native fruit of medium size, which ori-
ginated on the farm of Mr. Girdley, of Roxbury, near Boston ; the
colour is black, the flesh firm, of a fine flavour; in July; the tree grows
vigorous, and is very productive.

GASCOIGN'S BLEEDING HEART. A large sized heart-shaped cherry,
having the appearance of a small drop or tear at the end ; skin of a
dark red colour; flesh firm, but mellow; juice plentiful and of excellent
flavour ; early in July.

HARRISON'S HEART, Red Ox Heart. A large heart-shaped cherry ;
yellowish or imber colour, but light red next the sun; flesh tender and
high flavoured ; in June and July.

KNIGHT'S EARLY BLACK. The blossoms of this variety appear very
early ; its fruit resembles the Waterloo; of a rich dark hue; its flesh is
firm juicy, and abundantly sweet; by the middle of June.

MAXZARD. This cherry grows wild, and is cultivated also in abun.
dance in various parts of England. It is the principal fruit employed
lor the making of Cherry Brandy, and the stocks of the species are best
adapted for nursery-men to bud and graft the better kinds on.

NAPOLEON BIGARREAU, Blgarrean \apolcon, Laucrmaim , G/os Bigar-
r.eau de Lauermann The tree of thi^ variety is remarkable for the
vigour and beauty of its growth ; it produces a fine large white fruit
with red spots; the flesh is remarkably white, solid, and of a sweet
agreeable flavour ; early in July.

REMIXGTOV WHITE HBVRT. A moderate sized cherry, of pleasant
flavour; chiefly valuable for its very late maturity, being towards the
end of August. It is said to have originated in Rhode Island.

WHITE TARTARIAN, White Transparent Crimea, Eraser's White A
beautiful cherry, pale yellow, approaching to an amber next the sun,;
u much admired fruit, of excellent flavour; a good bearer, ripening
early in July.

281
CHESTNUT.

CHATAIONER. Castanea.

THE Chestnut is well known as a large tree, spreading
its branches finely where it has room, but planted closely,
will shoot up straight to a great height. It is supposed to
have been originally from Sardis. It is so common as to
be considered a native of France and Italy, and some
consider it as naturalized in England; it is also indigenous
in America. The London catalogue contains the names
of thirty-two sorts under cultivation. The Chestnut is like
the Walnut, both a timber and fruit tree ; some of the oldest
trees in the world are of this species.* The American
Chestnut differs so little from the European, that no specific
distinction can be drawn. It is one of the largest trees of
the forest, the wood being extremely durable, and in high
esteem for posts and rails to construct fences ; and the nuts
are very delicious. The Castanea pumita, or Chinquapin
nut, is a small tree, or rather shrub, growing to the height
of thirty feet in the Southern States, but seldom exceeding
ten in cold latitudes ; the fruit is very sweet and agreeable

to eat.

There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very
ornamental. The most esteemed of the French kinds are
called Marron. Some excellent fruit-bearing varieties are
cultivated in England, France, Italy and Spain, as also in
other parts of Europe ; th'ese are increased by grafting or
budding in the usual methods, but the plants for coppice
wood, or timber, are best raised from nuts. Some varieties
ripen their fruit a few days earlier than others, but none of
these have been fixed on, or perpetuated by nurserymen, so
as to render them available by purchasers. The fruit is a
desirable nut for Autumn and Winter, and is eaten roasted,

* At Fortworth, in Gloucestershire, England, is a large tree, fifty-two
feet round; which in 1150 was called the"great Chestnut of Fortworth."
Marsham slates that this tree is 1100 years old, and that the timber is
almost incorruptible, and more durable than oak. Its durability is
commensurate with the long life of the tree.

24*

282 CRANBERRY.

with salt, and sometimes raw ; and in some countries it is-
not only boiled and roasted, but ground into meal ; and
puddings, cakes, and bread, are made from it.

CRANBERRY.

CANNED ERGE. Oxycocus.

THIS genus of plants is well distinguished from the
Vaccitiium,oi' Whortleberry, by the narrow revolute segments
of corolla ; and are pretty little trailing evergreen plants,
to which a peat soil, and rather moist situations, are
absolutely necessary. They are very little changed by
culture.

The Oxycocus macrocarpus is a red acid fruit, highly
valued as a sweetmeat, or for tarts. It is well known that
this excellent fruit grows in many parts of our country
spontaneously ; and that the mere gathering it, is all that
bountiful Nature requires at our hands ; but it is well worth
cultivating where there are none. This fruit will keep a
whole year, if properly preserved in close covered stone
jars, and is considered, by many, as superior, to the best
currant jelly, and may be kept for many months in a raw
state without injury.

The Oxycocus paluitris bears edible berries, which are
gathered wijd both in England and Scotland, and made
into tarts. Lightfoot says, that twenty or thirty pounds
worth are sold each market day, for five or six weeks
together in the town of Langtown, on the borders of
Cumberland.

Nicol says, the American species is more easily cul-
tivated than the English, but is inferior to it in flavour
There is reason to believe that the quality of the fruit of
each of these species is subject to variations, which
have not yet been practically distinguished. Their cul-
tivation is now so well understood, that they may be
both considered with propriety as inmates of the fruit garden.

CURRANT. , 263

It is customary in England to prepare beds on the edges
of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of the wet
getting underneath them ; bog or peat earth is considered
essential for the roots to run in, but it has been discovered
that they can be cultivated in damp situations of a garden,
f with a top dressing of peat or bog earth, and if they are
once suited as to the soil, the plants will multiply so as to
cover the bed in the course of a year or two, by means of
their long runners, which take root at different points.
From a very small space a very large quantity of Cranberries
may be gathered ; and they prove a remarkably regular
crop, scarcely affected by the state of the weather, and not
subject to the attacks of insects. Sir Joseph Banks gives
an account in (Hort. Trans. 1, 71,) of his success in culti-
vating this fruit. *• In one year, viz., 1813, from 326 square
feet, or a bed about eighteen feet square, three 'and a half
Winchester bushels of berries were produced, which, at five
bottles to the gallon, gives one hundred and forty bottles,
each sufficient fur one cranjberry pie, from two and a half-
square feet."

CURRANT.

GROSEILLER A GRAPPES. Ribes.

THIS is a genus of well known shrubs, much cultivated
for their fruit. It is a native of the Northern parts of
Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England ; and
there are some species indigenous in America. The fruit,
being of an agreeable sub-acid taste, is generally relished,
both as a dessert, and in pies and tarts ; it is also much
used in making wine, and is grown to a considerable extent
for that purpose in Essex, Kent, and about Pershore, in
Worcestershire, England. There are ten species cultivated
in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London,
comprising twelve varieties of red, ten of white, five kinds
of black, together with champagne, mountain, rock, upright;
Peaasylvanian, &e. Any number of varieties of the red and

SS4 CURRANT.

white may be procured from sowing the seeds, but they are
generally propagated by cuttings of the last year's wood,
which should be of sufficient length to form handsome
plants, with a clear stem, ten inches high ; these may be
planted immediately upon losing their leaves in Autumn,
or very early the ensuing Spring.

The Currant will grow in almost every soil, but prospers
best in one loamy and rich. The best flavoured fruit is
produced from plants in an open situation, but they will
grow under the shades of walls or trees, and either as low
bushes, or trained as espaliers. They bear chiefly on spurs,
and 'on young wood, of from one to three years' growth, and
therefore, in pruning, most of the young wood should be cut
to within two or three buds of that where it originated.
After the plants are furnished with full heads, they produce
many superfluous and irregular shoots every Summer,
crowding the general bearers, so as to require regulating,
and curtailing, both in the young growth of the year, and in
older wood.

The principal part of the work may be done in Winter,
or early in the Spring; but a preparatory part should be
performed in Summer, to eradicate suckers, and thin the
superfluous shoots of the year, where they are so crowded as

to exclude the sun and air from the fruit. In training

o

espaliers and for standards, two branches are laid in n
horizontal direction along the bottom of the trellis, perhaps
half a foot from the surface of the earth, and the growth
from these of all upright shoots, which will admit of being
arranged at the distance of five or six inches of each olher,
is encouraged. Fan standards are sometimes trained with
the branches radiating from the crown of the stem.

The black Currant, or Ribes nigrum, is common in moist
woods in Russia and Siberia ; its culture is similar to that
of the redj but as it is less apt to bear on spurs than on
young wood, the shoots should not be so much shortened
in this as in the other,

Currant bushes will require to be planted at different
distances, according to the situation and mode of training,
&e. When planted in beds, borders, or squares, they

FIG,

should be six feet apart, but if trained as espaliers, they
will require to be eight feet apart.

Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants, they
are, therefore, not much used in the kitchen or dessert, and
seldom in wine making. They make a jelly or jam, in
estimation as a gargle for inflammatory sore throats. "In
Russia and Siberia, wine is made of the berries alone, or
fermented with honey, and with or without spirits. In
Siberia they make a drink of the leaves ; these tincture
common spirits so as to resemble brandy, and a few of them
dried and mixed with black tea, answer all the purposes of
the green material." — (London.}

All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them in
any forcing department in January or February ; they will
produce ripe fruit in April and May.

FIG.

FIGUIER. Ficus carica.

THERE are many species of the Fig, which are all natives
of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and in the South
of Europe, they are always grown as standards; and the
fruit, green and dried, forms an important part of the food
of the inhabitants. The London Horticultural catalogue
contains the names of seventy-five sorts ; and Messrs. Prince,
of Flushing, have upwards of forty in their collection, some
of which are select sorts from France and Italy. It is
cultivatedin England as a fruit tree, and, in warm situations,
will ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the
sea-coast, it lipens its fruit on standards. Some of the best
in England, are .at Arundel Castle ; and there is a Fig
orchard of one hundred trees at Tarring, near Worthing.
Those at Arundel are planted six or eight feet apart, and
from a single stem allowed to continue branching conical
heads, pruning chiefly irregular and redundant growths, and
cutting out decayed or injured wood.

286

FIG,

The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings,
layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most generally
approved method is by layers or cuttings, which come into
bearing the second, and sometimes the first year. No tree
is more robust or more prolific ; even plants in pots or tubs
kept in a temperature adapted for the Orange tree, will fruit
freely, and ripen two crops a year, and by being taken care
of through the Winter, will go on growing and ripening fruit
wliitliout intermission. Mr. Knight has obtained from his
hot-house in England, eight successive crops in a year, by
bending the limbs in a position below the horizontal. The
trees will produce tolerable crops in the second year if rung
or decorticated ; and by this process maturity of the fruit
is accelerated, and its size increased. Its maturity is also
hastened by pricking the fruit with a straw or quill dipped in
olive oil, or even by slightly touching the fruit with oil, at
the finger's end. In Fig countries the fruit is preserved by
dipping it in scalding lye, made of the ashes of the fig tree
and then dried in the Sun.

When Figs are cultivated in a garden, a good loamy soil
should be provided ; and they may be trained to close fences,
or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the approach of
Winter they must be protected ; those trained to close fences
may be secured through the Winter, by a covering of
matting ; and such as may be in open situations should be
liberated from the trellis, and laid down close to the ground,
and covered three or four inches with earth ; or trenches may
be formed of that depth, sufficient to contain the branches,
which should be fastened down wiih hooked pegs, without
cramping them : such of the strong central branches as will
not bend, may be enveloped in litter. They should be
pruned before they are laid down in November, and on
being raised again in April, they may be trained as before.
Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as easily as,
the vine.

as?

FILBERT AND HAZLENUT.

NOISETIER AVELINIER. Corylus.

THE Filbert, in many varieties, and also the common
Hazlenut, grow spontaneously in the woods of Britain, and
some few varieties are indigenous in this country., The
kinds of Filberts generally cultivated, are the white, red, cob,
clustered, and frizzled ; of each of which there are many
varieties. As this shrub is so easily cultivated, it is a matter
of astonishment that the nuts from this genus of plants are
so scarce in our markets. In different parts of England
there are Filbert orchards. In the Filbert grounds about
Maid stone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate
Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts ;
when these come into a bearing state, the Hops are taken
up and transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees only
suffered to remain. The spare ground is then planted with
Gooseberries, Currants, &c. The red Filbert is allowed to
have a finer flavour than the white. The Cob-nut is large,
with a thick shell, but the kernel is sweet and of considerable
size. The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin shell.
The Crossford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tree is
a great bearer.

All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf standards ;
or they will bear very well if planted in clumps ; but as
they produce an abundance of suckers, these should be
parted off frequently, and planted in a nursery bed for
stocks ; as the bearing plants will cease to produce fruit in
any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form a thick
bush. They may be propagated by seed, by suckers,
by layers, or by grafting in the Soring upon seedling or
sucker stocks.

The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the upper
young branches, and from small shoots which proceed from
the bases of side branches cut off the preceding year. The
leading shoot is every year to be shortened, and every
shoot that is left to produce fruit should be clipped : which
prevents the tree from being exhausted in making wood at

288 GOOSEBERRY.

the end of the branch — Such branches as may have oorne
fruit, must be cut out every year, in order to promote the
growth of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches.

GOOS^BE-RRY.

CTROSEILLKH. Ribes grossularla, uva, crispa, etc.

THE Gooseberry is a native of several parts of Europe,
and is indigenous in America, as far North as 68°. It is
cultivated to greater perfection in England than in any
other part of the world. In Spain and Italy, this fruit
is scarcely known. In France it is neglected. In Lan-
casbire, England, and some parts of the adjoining counties,
almost every cottager cultivates the Gooseberry, with a view
to prizes given at what are called Gooseberry Prize Meet-
ings; of these, there is annually published an account
with the names and weight of the successful sorts, in what
is called the Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes
vary from ten shillings to five and ten pounds sterling.
There are meetings held in the Spring to "make up," as the
term is, the sorts, the persons, and the conditions of exhi-
bition ; and in August, to weigh and test the fruit, and
determine the prizes.

hi Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden,
722 varieties are described ; from which the fallowing are
selected, as in most repute for size, flavour, and other good
qualities :

REDS.

BRITISH CROWN. This variety is noted as being a fine flavoured
fruit, especially for tarts. 33 prizes had been awarded for it in 1829 >
the largest berry weighing 18 pennyweights and 10 grains.

CHAMPAGNE. The fruit of this variety is held in great esteem for its
delicious flavour ; the berry is of medium size, somewhat oblong and
hairy.

CAPPER'S TOP SAWYEH. This is a late fruit, of oblong shape, and
hairy near the base. 171 prizes were obtained for this in 1828 and 9 i
the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains.

GOOSEBERRIES. 289

CROWN BOB, MELLI.VG'S. This variety won 85 prizes in two seasons ;
the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 12 grains. It is a late fruit, of
oblong shape, bright red colour, and hairy.

HUNTSMAN. This variety, which originated with Mr. Bratherton,
took 216 prizes in 1828 and 9 ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts.

LANCASHIRE LAD, HARTSHORN'S 156 prizes were awarded for this
variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains.

MARQUIS OF STAFFORD, KNIGHT'S. This much esteemed late variety,
is hairy, of medium size, bright red colour, and delicious flavour.

PRINCE RKGENT, BOARDMAN'S. This variety won 141 prizes in two
seas ons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains.

ROARIVG Lios, FARMER'S. In 1828, 349 prizes were awarded for
this variety; and in 1829 it won 453 prizes ; the largest berry weighing
29 dwts. ; since which time, berries have beea known to weigh over
one ounce and a half each,

SIR JOHN COTGRAVE, BRATHERTON'S. This variety took 343 prizes
in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 25 dwts. 2 gra;ns.

YELLOWS.

BUNKER'S HILL, CAPPER'S. 2iO prizes were awarded for this variety
in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 2 grains.

BRITANNIA. This variety is noted for its earliness and delicious
flavour. The fruit is of medium size, weighing about 18 dwts.

COTTAGE GIHL, HF.APS'S. This variety won 133 prizes in two sea-
sons; the largest berry weighing 19 dwts. 14 grains.

GUNNER, H^RDCASTLE'S. 192 prizes were given for this variety in
1828 ; and in 1829, 181 prizes were awarded ; the heaviest berry weigh-
ing 24 dwts. 5 grains ; fruit rather late.

ROCKWOOD, PROPHET'S. The fruit of this variety is very early ; it is
of a roundish oblong shape, and slightly hairy. It won 303 prizes in
two years ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 3 grains

SOVEREIGN, BRATHERTON'S, 202 prizes wereobtained for this variety
in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains.

VIPER, GORDON'S. This is an early smooth fruit, and won 87 prizes
in two years ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains.

GREENS.

ANGLER, COLLIERS. 385 prizes were awarded for this varietyintwo
seasons j the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 1 grain.

EARLY GREEN, HAIRY. This variety is described in the Pomological
Magazine as a very early fruit ; it is round, hairy, of deep green colour
and excellent flavour, but not large.

FAVOURITE, BATES'S. 235 prizes were given for this variety in two
years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 20 grains.

25

GOOSEBEKKIES.

GIEKNWOOD, BERRY'S. This variety obtained 204 prizes in two sea-
sons ; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 4 grains. It is a deliciously
flavoured fruit

INDEPENDENT, BIGG'S. 121 prizes were given for this variety in two
years ; the largest berry weighing 16 dwts. 4 grains. It is an early
rich fruit.

OCEAN, WAIWMAN'S. Thi» variety won 278 prizes in two seasons j
the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 8 grains. The fruit is oblong and
smooth.

TROUBLER, MOORE'S. 160 prizes were taken for this variety in two
years ; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 13 grains.

WHITES.

BONNY LASS, CAPPER'S. This variety won 167 prizes in two seasons ;
the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts, 10 grains.

CHESHIRE LASS, SAUNDERS'S. This is one of the earliest varieties, and
makes excellent tarts. The fruit is large, oblong, downy, and f]ne
flavoured.

GOVERNESS, BRATHERTOIS'S. 124 prizes were awarded for this variety
in two years ; the largest berry weighing 24 dwts.

LADY DELAMERE, WYLDS'S. This variety took 253 prizes in two
seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 6 grains.

NAILER, BLOMILEY'S. 134 prizes were given for this variety in two
«easons ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 12 grains.

QUEEN CAROLINE. This variety won 142 prizes in two years; the
heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit.

WELLINGTON'S GLORY. 173 prizes were obtained in two seasons for
this variety ; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains.

WHITE EAGLE, This variety gained 476 prizes in twe seasons ; the
heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts. 12 grains.

WHITE LION, CHELWORTH'S. 102 prizes were given for this variety
in two years ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. The
fruit is late, slightly hairy, and excellent for tarts.

WHITESMITH, WOODWARD'S. This is a small early berry, weighing
aboutl4 dwts. The skin is downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any
gooseberry of its colour.

The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes
applicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usually
adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seed for pro-
curing them. The cuttings should be taken from promising
shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the Autumn ;
the greatest part of the buds should be taken off, leaving

GOOSEBERRY.

only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a
length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear ;
and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach
of Winter, lay some moss or litter around them ; and, by
being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant when
they are a year old.

When bushes are procured from the public nurseries, let
the -general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in
succession. They may be planted in the kitchen garden,
in single rows, along the side of the walks or paths, or in
compartments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet
apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows ;
or in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall
stem, and tied to a stake : this though six or eight feet high,
occasions scarcely any shade, and it does not occupy much
room, nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem
becomes closely hung with berries, and makes a pleasant
appearance in that state. Persons of taste may train them
on arched trellises, which, if judiciously managed, the ground
around them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit may
be kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily
gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats,
&c. Those who may have a choice of soil and site, should
fix on a good, rich loamy earth, and plant some of the choice
kinds in a Northern and Eastern aspect, near the fence, to
come late in succession.

The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoots
of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three years old,
but also on spurs or snags arising from the older branches
along the sides ; but the former afford the largest fruit-
The shoots retained for bearers should therefore be left at
full length, or nearly so ; the first pruning should be done
before the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being
rubbed off in the operation. Cut out all the superfluous cross
shoots, and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some
well placed lateral of eye : retain a sufficiency of the young
well situated lateral and terminals^ to form successional
bearers. In cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be
careful to retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal

292 GOOSEBERRY.

branch. The superfluous young laterals on the good main
branches, instead of being taken off clean, may be cut into
little stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit
buds and spurs.

Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on righS
principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly full of young wood
in Summer, from which the fruit is always small, and does
not ripen freely with full flavour ; on which account it js an
important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head
open and clear, and to let the occasional shortening of the
shoots be sparing and moderate. Between the bearing
branches keep a regulated distance of. at least six inches at
the extremities, which will render them fertile bearers of
good fruit.

The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire, arc
particular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water
occasionally with liquor which drains from dunghills ; and
there are some, who, not content with watering at the root
and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each
Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush ;
this is technically called suckling*— There are others that
ring some of the branches ; this is done by cutting out small
circles of bark round them, and by pinching off a great
part of the young wood, the strength is thrown to the fruit.

Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against
Winter : some after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand
them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them
gradually through without cracking them ; they will keep
a whole year, if closely corked, and sealed as soon as cold.

The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, plaqed
in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. "Hay, plants in
pots in November, removes to the peach-house in January ,.
and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to
table growing on the plants." — (Hort^ Trans. 4. 415.).

29S
GRAPE.

VIGNE. Vitist vinifera, vulpina.

THE Grape Vine is described by Loudon, as a trailing
deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted irregular stem, and
long flexible branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble,
or supporting themselves when near other trees, by means
of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed,
entire, or serrated and downy, or smooth, green in Summer,
but when mature, those of varieties in which the predomi-
nating colour is red, constantly change to, or are tinged
with some shade of that colour ; and those of white, green,
or yellow grapes, as constantly change to a yellow, and are
never in the least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet.
The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or
ten inches, and the length of the foot stalks from four
to eight inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots of
the same year, which shoots generally proceed from those
of the year preceding : they are in the form of a raceme, of
a greenish white colour, and fragrant odour, appearing in
the open air in June ; and the fruit, which is of the berry
kind, attains such maturity as the season and situation admit,
by the middle or end of September. The berry, or grape,
is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or fin.
ger-shaped ; the colours green, red, yellow, amber, and
black, or a variegation of two or more of these colours.
The skin is smooth, the pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant,
elevated, generous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose
five small heart, or pear-shaped stones ; though, as some
generally fail, they have seldom more than three, and some
varieties, as they attain a certain age, as the Ascalon, or
sultana raisin, none. The weight of a berry depends not
only on its size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture
of the flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy
sorts, as the sweet water or muscadine ; and what are
considered as large-berried of these varieties, will weigh
from five to seven penny-weights, and measure from one to
two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good sized bunch of the.

25*

same sorts may weigh from two to six pounds ; but bunches
have been grown of the Syrian grape, in Syria, weighing
forty pounds, and in England weighing from ten to nineteen
pounds. A single Vine in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf
standard, in the manner practised in the vineyards in the
North of Franee, ordinarily produces from three to nine
bunches : but by superior management in gardens in
England, the number of bunches is prodigiously increased,
and one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery
of the royal gardens at Hampton Court,, has produced
two thousand two hundred bunches, averaging one pound
each, or in all nearly a ton. That at Valentine, in Essex,
has produced two thousand bunches of nearly the same
average weight.

. The age to which the Vine will attain in warm climates
is so great as not to be known. It is supposed:to be equal
or even- to surpass that of the Oak. Pliny speaks of a Vine
which ha'd existed six hundred years ; and Bose says, there
are Vines in Burgundy upwards of four hundred, years
of age.

In. Italy there are vineyards which have been in a
flourishing state for upwards of three centuries, and Miller
tells us that a- vineyard a hundred years old is reckoned
young. The extent of the branches of the Vine, in certain
situations and circumstances, is commensurate with its
produce and age. In the hedges of. Italy, and woods of
America, they are found overtopping the highest EJm and
Poplar trees ; and in England one plant trained against a
row of houses in Northallerton (lately dead) covered a space
in 1585, of one hundred and thirty seven square yards ; it
was then above one hundred years old. That at Hampton
Court, nearly of the same age, occupies above one hundred
and sixteen square yards.; and that at Valentine, in
Essex, above one hundred and forty-seven square yards.
The size to which the trunk, or stem, sometimes attains in
warm climates, is so great, as to have afforded planks
fifteen inches broad, furniture, and statues ; and the
Northallerton Vine, above mentioned in 1785, measured
four feet in circumference near the ground, and one branch

GKA.PE. , 296

of. the Hampton Court Vine measures one hundred and
fourteen feet in length. Vine timber ia of great dura-
bility.

The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is grown
for the wine press, are as numerous as the vineyards ; for as
these tor the most part differ in soil, aspect, elevation, or
otherwise,, and as the Vine is greatly the child of local
circumstances, its habits soon become adapted to those in
which it is placed. When it is considered, that a vineyard
once planted will last two or three centuries, it will readily
be conceived that the nature of a variety may be to-
tally changed during only a part of that time. The
varieties mostly in esteem for wine making, are small
berries, and bunches with an austere taste.. The Bur.
gundy, as modified by different soils and situations,
may be considered the most general, vineyard Grape of
France, from Champagne or Marne> to Marseilles or
Bordeaux.

The best wine in Italy and Spain is also made from
Grapes of this description; but in both countries many of the
larger berried sorts are grown on account of their pro-
ducing more liquor. The sweet wines, as the Malmsey,.
Maderia, Constantia, Tokay, &c. are made from sweet-
berried grapes allowed to remain on the plants till over
ripe. That wine is the strongest, and has most flavour,
in which both the skins and stones are bruised and
fermented. The same thing is the case in making cider ;
but in both, processes bruising the stones or kernels is
often neglected. The vine was formerly extensively cul-
tivated in Britain for the wine press, but its culture is now
confined to the garden as a dessert fruit ; and they have in,
that country not only the best varieties, but they grow the
fruit to a larger size, and of a higher flavour, thau is
done any where else in the world : this is owing to the
perfection of their artificial climates, and the great atten-
tion paid to soil and sub-soil, and other points of culture,
The fruit is produced in some vineries during every,
month in the year ; and in the London markets (generally).

GRAPE.

it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from
March to January.

The Vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bottom ;
and in such as are rich and deep it will grow luxuriantly,
and produce abundance of large fruit; in shallow, dry,
chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce less fruit, but of
better flavour. Speechly recommends dung reduced to a
black mould, the dust and dirt of roads, the offal of animals,
or butcher's manure, horn shavings, old rags, shavings of
leather, bone dust, dung of deer and sheep, human excrement
when duly meliorated by time, a Winter's frost, and re-
peatedly turning over. Abercrombie says, that dung out of
a cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the Vine ;
he recommends drainings from dunghills to be used over the
ground once in ten or fourteen days from the time the bud&
rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh horse dung be spread
over the ground in Autumn as a manure, and also to protect
the roots from the inclemency of the weather ; some,
however, disapprove of manuring high, as being calculated
to produce wood rather than fruit.

The general mode of propagating the Vine is by cuttings,
either a foot or more long, with a portion of two year old
wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud and a half
joint, &c. Vines are to be had at the nurseries, propagated
either from layers, cuttings, or eyes ; but plants raised from
cuttings are generally preferred ; many are of opinion that
it is a matter of indifference from which class the choice is
made, provided the plants are well rooted, and in good
health, and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility
is to select the plants in the nursery a year before wanted,
and to order them to be potted in very large pots. Varieties
without end are raised from seed, and it is thought that by
propagating from the seeds of successive generations, some
sorts may ultimately be procured, better adapted for ripen-
ing their fruit in the open air than now known. A seedling
Vine, carefully treated, will show blossoms in its fourth or
fifth year ; say that it produces a fair specimen of its fruit
n the sixth year, then a new generation may be obtained

(SHAPE.

so often ; but seeds ought never to be sown, except for
experiment.

William Robert Prince, Esq*. in his Treatise on tire Vine,
published 1630, enumerates about five hundred and fifty
varieties in cultivation, in the vineyard attached to the
Linnsean Botanic Garden at Flushing, including about
ninety American native Grapes ; but no sufficient evidence
has as yet been exhibited of vineyards flourishing her«
equal to what they do in Europe. Mr. Loubat has at-
tempted to establish a vineyard on Long Island, which he
abandoned after six years' arduous exertion. The following
have been found to succeed best in the vicinity of N^w-York;
the Sweetwater, the Chasselas, the Muscadine, tire While
Tokay, the Black Hamburgh, the Blue Gortiga, the Miller
Burgundy, the Austrian Muscadel, the Messlier, the Mor-
Hon, the Black Prince, Blanc, and some excellent seedling
sorts from the imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery
for a full crop of good Grapes of various flavours, take a
white and red Muscat, a white and red, or black Muscadine*
a white and red Frontignac, a black or red Muscadel, a
white Raisin Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a Stilwell's>
and red Sweet waters, a white and red Nice, a black
Damascus, a red Syracuse, and a black Constantia. The
above li<$t contains some of the most esteemed table
Grapes of all colours and flavours, which will ripen iu
succession. The mos.t preferable kinds of our native
Grapes, for private gardens, are the * Catawba,' the York,
(Pa), 'Black Madeira,' the Schuylkill, Muscadel, and the
Isabella. To these may he added, the Scuppernong, or
Hickman Grape, which is said to be larger than the-. Fox
Grape, of a delightful p£rfurn.e, and. when ripe, it is, of a
yellowish white colour.

Previous to planting Vines, care should be taken that the
ground be well pulverized and prepared for some distance
around for the roots to spread. The soil should be deep and
dry, and some rich compost, or vegetable mould, should be
used around the roots in filling in ; a handful or two of wet
to ea.ch plant is recommended^ by Mr, Loubat as.

298 GRAPE.

beneficial ; and he recommends the planting to be done in
the month of March, or early in April.

There are various methods adopted in training and pru-
ning the Vine ; and it appears impossible to lay down rules
to suit every cultivator. The Vine having, like other trees,
a tendency to produce its most vigorous shoots at the
extremities of the branches, and particularly so at those
which are situated highest, it generally happens, when it is
trained high, that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near
the top ; and it has been observed, that the fruit produced
on the vigorous shoots, which naturally grow at the extremi-
ties of the long branches, is generally more abundant, and
of finer quality, than that prodnced on the short lateral ones,
from which circumstance, high training seems to be the best
calculated for private gardens.

In some parts of Italy, Vines are cultivated together with
Mulberry trees, and are allowed to mingle and hang in
festoons ; thus silk and wine are produced on the same
spot ; and it is considered that when Vines are allowed to
grow over trees, on the side of a house, or on bowers, or
extended on tall poles, without much trimming, they will
produce more fruit, and are riot so liable to mildew.

Dr. G. W. Chapman of New- York, having paid some
attention to the cultivation of native Grapes, observes, that
the Vine, in its natural state, seldom or ever throws out
bearing shoots until it reaches the top of the tree on which
it ascends, when the branches take a horizontal or descend-
ing position. From this fact, he considers horizontal training
preferable to that in the fan shape. From the experiments
he has made, he has found that the shoots coming from those
parts of the branches bent downwards, are more productive
than from those ascending ; he considers deep digging
around the Vine, even to the destruction of some of the
extending roots, as calculated to promote the growth of more
fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the sur-
face : and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the
fruit until early in July.

Mr. William Wilson of Clermont, leaves his Vines their
whole length at the time of trimming in October. In

SHAPE. 299

November, they are laid on the ground at full length,fastened
down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ; in this
state they lie all the Winter. In April, as soon as the wea*
ther will permit, they are uncovered, and left lying on the
ground ten or twelve days : by the first of May, the Vines
are trained to stakes or poles of the length of ten feet and
upwards; and by the middle of June, the stakes are entirely,
covered by new shoots of the Vine, and with plenty of fruit,
which ripens in September. Mr. \V» says, that until he
pursued his present course, his fruit was frequently blasted
and mildewed, _but that he has now Vines twenty or thirty
feet long, which run up the fruit trees adjoining; others,
being carried up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally.
It is seldom he gathers fruit within three or four feet of the
ground, and he has never any blasted or infected with
mildew; he keeps the ground cultivated by frequent
hoeing and raking ; but he says he has used no manure for
ten years, or more.

Edward H. Bonsall, Esq., has a vineyard of American
Grapes at Germantown, Pa., in a high state of cultivation.
In page 331 of Prince's Treatise on the Vine, is a letter to
the author, containing some valuable information, from
which the following is extracted as appropriate to our
subject.

Mr. Bonsall's vineyard is situated between the Schuylkill
and Delaware Rivers, four miles from the former, and eight
from the latter, at an elevation of 300 feet above their level,
has an aspect facing S. S. E., with a substratum of light
isinglass soil, and seems well suited to the purpose. He
says, " from my experience, both on my premises, and at
other places, it is my opinion that we should reject almost
all the foreign varieties, especially where our object in culti-
vating them is to make wine." He has upwards of thirty
varieties of American Vines under cultivation ; he recom-
mends preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs
with strong teams, one immediately behind the other, in the
same furrow, each of them set deep ; and after the plough-
ing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly. Then in the
direction the rows are intended to be planted, parallel

300 GKAFfc.

fnrro'ws are run across the field, at the distance of eiglit feet
from each other; these are afterwards crossed at right
angles, five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection
of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches long
are planted, and arranged with a view to the Vines being,
when grown, at distances of four by seven feet from each
other ; to this end, he frequently plants two cuttings in a
place, some of which are used to fill up with, in case of
failures. He says, that in 1629 he planted in nursery beds
from two to three thousand cuttings as late as the middle of
April to the middle of May, with better success than at any
previous time. " In this case the slips should be kept in a
cool damp place, where vegetation may be held in check.
To insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally with
water. Previous to planting, cut them a proper length, and
place them with their lower ends three or four inches in
water, in a tub above ground, where they may soak three or
four days. At this season the temperature will be likely to
be such as to spur vegetation at once into healthy and
vigorous action. The Autumn, or early in the Spring, is
preferable for rooted plants. In the Autumn of the first
year, after the frost has killed the unripe part of the young
shoots, they should be pruned down to the mature firm
wood, and then with a hoe filled over with the surrounding
• soil, which will completely protect them through the Winter.
If left without protection the first Winter, many of them
will perish."

Mr. Bonsall says, his mode of training, as far as he is
aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he describes
as follows: " I take chestnut posts, the thickness of large
fence rails, seven feet in length; these I plant along the
rows, at distances of ten feet from each other, and at such
a depth as to leave five feet above the surface of the earth ;
then taking three nails to each post, and driving them to
within half an inch of their heads, the first two and a half
feet from the ground, a second midway between that and
the top, and the third near the top, I attach No 1 1 iron wire
(one degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in the
end post, pass on to the next, and stretching it straight and

GRAPE. 301

tight, give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the
one to which it was first attached. Having in this manner
extended it along the three courses, the whole length of the
row, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of my
vineyard fitted up in this way for three years, and experience
has confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not its
least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree the
character of labour-saving [machinery. A very important
and extensive labour-making portion of the operations in
the vineyard during the Summer, is the attention required
by the growing shoots to keep them properly trained up.
They grow and extend themselves so rapidly, that where the
strips of the trellis are lath, or where poles are used to sup-
port vines, unless very closely-watched, they fall down in
every direction, in a very unsightly and injurious manner.
Here the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers eagerly
and firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for them-
selves, in probably two-thirds of the instances where the
attention of the vigneron would otherwise be required.
There is a free access afforded to the Sun and air, and no
hold for the wind to strain the frame," &c. Mr. Bonsall
says further, " I shall not enter into a minute description of
my manner of pruning, but may just say, that after the vines
have attained a lull capacity for production, (say five years
from the cutting,) my view is to prepare them for bearing
an average of fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of
from three to five joints on a vine for this purpose. When
fresh pruned, they will not be more than four feet high, at
their greatest age."

Although the man of taste and capacity for improving on
the improvements of others, may have gleaned ideas from
the above extracts, sufficient to enable him to cultivate the
vine in his own garden, it may be necessary to direct the
reader's attention to the different methods of cultivating this
excellent fruit in varied situations.

A Vine may be trained horizontally under the coping of
a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the borders
in an East, South-East, and Southern aspect of large gar-
dens, may be furnished with a variety of sorts, which will

26

302 GRAPtf.

ripen in great perfection, without encumbering the borders;
or the plants may be trained low, like currant bushes, in
which case, three or more shoots, eighteen inches or two feet
in length, may diverge from the stem near the ground, to
supply young wood annually for bearing. The Summer
pruning consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, or
are not required for the succeeding season ; in topping fruit-
bearing shoots, and also those for succeeding years, when
inconveniently long and straggling. For as by this mode,
the shoots destined to bear, afe all cut in — to three or four
eyes at the Winter pruning, no inconvenience arises from
their throwing out laterals near the extremities, which
stopping will generally cause them to do.

In training Vines as standards, the single stem at the
bottom is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height,
and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a
single stake of three or four feet in length. These shoots
bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen
inches of the ground, and they are annually succeeded by
others which spring from their base, that is, from the crown
or top of the dwarf main stem. This is the mode practised
in the North of France and in Germany; in the South of
France and Italy, the base or main stem is often higher, and
furnished with side shoots, in order to afford a great supply
of bearing wood, which is tied to one or more poles of
greater height. The Summer pruning in this case, is
nearly the same as in the last. In the Winter pruning, the
wood that has borne is cut out, and the new wood shorten edy
in cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer
places to six or eight eyes.

Abercrombie's methods of pruning established Vines,
admit of much diversity, as the plants' are in different situa-
tions. Without reckoning the cutting down of young or
weak plants alternately to the lowermost Summer shoots^
which is but a temporary course, three different systems of
pruning have their advocates. In the first method, one
perpendicular leader is trained from the stem, at the side of
which, to the right and left, the ramifications spring. When
the plant is established, the immediate bearers, or shoots of

GRAPE. 303

the growing season, and the mother bearers, or shoots of
the last year's growth, are thus managed. Soon after the
growing season has commenced, such rising shoots as
either are in fruit and fit to be retained, or are eligibly placed
for mother bearers next season, are laid in, either horizon-
tally, or with a slight diagonal rise, at something less than
a foot distance, measuring from one bearing shoot to the
next ; the rising shoots, intended to form young wood,
should be taken as near the origin of the branch as a good
one offers, to allow of cutting away, beyond the adopted
lateral, a greater quantity of the branch, as it becomes old
wood ; the new Spring laterals, not wanted for one of these
two objects, are pinched off. The treatment of those
retained during the rest of the Summer, thus differs : As the
shoots in bearing extend in growth, they are kept stopped,
about two eyes beyond the fruit ; the connate shoots, culti-
vated merely to enlarge the provision of wood, are divested
of embryo branches, if they show any, and trained at full
length as they advance during the Summer, until they reach
the allotted bounds ; were they stopped in the middle of their
growth, it would cause them to throw out tronblesome
laterals ; in the Winter pruning, there will thus be a great
choice of mother bearers. That nearest the origin of the
former mother bearer, or most comniodiously placed, is
retained, and the other or others on the same branch are cut
away ; the rest of the branch is also taken off, so that the
old wood may terminate with the adopted lateral ; the
adopted shoot is then shortened to two, three, four, or a
greater number of eyes, according to its place on the Vine,
its own strength, or the strength of the Vine. The lower
shoots are pruned in — the shortest, in order to promote a
growth of young wood, at the bottom of the Vine."

The second method is to head down the natural leader,
so as to cause it to throw out two, three, or more principal
shoots ; these are trained as leading branches ; and in the
Winter pruning are not reduced, unless to shape them to
the limits of the trellisr or unless the plant appears too
weak to sustain them 'at length. Laterals from these are
cultivated about twelve inches apart, as mother bearers ;

304 GRAPE.

those in fruit are stopped in Summer, and after the fall of
the leaf, are cut in — to one or two eyes. From the appear-
ance of the mother bearers, thus shortened, this has been
called spur-bearing.

The third method seems to flow from taking the second
plan as a foundation, in having more than one aspiring
leader, and from joining the superstructure of the first system
immediately to this, and in reserving well-placed shoots
to come in as bearing wood. Thus, supposing a stem
which has been headed, to send up four vigorous competing
leaders, two are suffered to bear fruit, and two are divested
of such buds as break into clusters, and trained to the
length of ten, twelve, or fifteen feet, or more, for mother
bearers next season. In the Winter pruning, the leaders
which have borne a crop, are cut down to within two eyes of
the stool, or less, according to the strength of the plant,
while the reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than is
necessary to adjust them to the trellis."

Nicol observes, that "most of the Summer pruning of
Vines may be performed with the fingers, without a knife,
the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and those
to be shortened, being little, are readily pinched asunder."
After selecting the shoots to be trained for the production of
a crop next season, and others necessary for filling the trellis
from the bottom, which shoots should be generally laid in
at the distance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other,
rub off all the others that have no clusters, and shorten those
that have, at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For
this purpose, go over the plants every three or four 8ays
till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the
same time rubbing off any water shoots that may rise from
the wood,

Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance. If
there be an under trellis, on which to, train the Summer
shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length, or when
the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may
enjoy the full air and light, as it advances towards maturity,
Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to be
shortened in the Winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for

GRAPE. 305

(he production of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped
when they have grown to the length of four or five feet.
Others that are intended to be cut down to about two yards,
and which issue at different heights, may be stopped when
they have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more, ac-
cording to their strength. And those intended to be cut at
or near to the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard or
two down the back, or a trellis may be placed so as to form
an arbour ; or they may be placed to run right or left a few
feet on the uppermost wire*

The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed, will
probably push again after being stopped, if the plants be
vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; but after the
fruit are half grown, they will seldom spring. Observe to
divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear,
except the uppermost on each, in order to provide against
accidents, as hinted at before, in training the newly planted
Vines. When these shoots are stopped, as directed above,
they will push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run
a few joints, and then shorten it back to one, and so on as it
pushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper shoots
get ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to
the originally shortened part,, or to one joint above it, if
there be reason to fear that the uppermost bud of the proper
shoot will start.

Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves as they
appear, as such will sometimes occur in continued hazy
weather, and be particularly cautious not to injure the leaf
that accompanies the bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit will
be of little value.

'• Every one of penetration and discernment," Nicol ob-
serves, " will admit the utility of thinning the berries on
bunches of grapes, in order that they may have room to
swell fully; and further that of supporting the shoulders of
such clusters of the large growing kinds as hang loosely,
and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in
order to prevent the bad effects of damp or mouldiness id
very moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy,
Royal Muscadine, Raisin, St. Peter's, Syrian, Tokay, and

306 GRAPE.

others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trellis,
or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the
berries are about the size of garden peas. At the same time,
the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow
pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third
part of the berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the
Frontignacs, Muscats, &c., should likewise be moderately
thinned, observing to thin out ths small seedless berries only
of the Muscadine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay.
In this manner, handsome bunches and full-swelled berries
may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters or over-bur-
dened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed,
cutting off the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over-
loaded, and pushing weak wood, are the only means by
which to cause them, to produce shoots fit to bear
fruit next year; and this should be duly attended to,
so long as the future welfare of the plants is a matter
of importance.

The preceding observations may be considered as falling
short of what may be expected on the cultivation of so
important a fruit as the Grape ; but it is introduced into this
book only as a garden fruit. The modes of training in
vineyards and vineries, are alike suited to the garden. Low
training may be practised in borders or hedge rows, in large
gardens ; and high training in sheltered situations, on high
trellises or arbours. By proper management, the Vine may
be elevated to the middle story of a house by a single stem*
and afterwards trained to a great height, according to the
taste of the proprietor. As the Vine is often trained near
buildings, an awning may be conveniently formed over the
tops so as to admit of fumigating the Vine with smoke from
tobacco, &c., as may be necessary in the Summer season ;
or a sort of movable tent may be made of light boards, and
cheap glazed linen, or an old sail,&c., capable of covering
the Vine while a smoke is created underneath ; this will
effectually destroy such insects as may annoy the Vine, and
may prevent mildew and other diseases.

307-
MULBERRY.

MURIER. Moms. .

THERE are several species of the Morus or Mulberry,
The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to feed
silkworms, though in some parts of Spain, and in Persia,
they are said to piefer the Black Mulberry. In China, .it
appears that both sorts are grown for the same purpose.
The most esteemed variety of the white is one grown in
Italy, and especially in Lombardy, with vigorous shoots,
and much larger leaves than the otlien. The Morus multi-
caulis is caltivated in many parts of France, and is by some
preferred to all other varieties. Jt is said that a less quan-
tity of foliage from this variety will satisfy the silkworms.
The late Andrew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of
introducing several choice varieties from that country ; and
our nurserymen generally, have, of late years, turned their
attention to the cultivation of such as are best adapted for
silkworms, which are sold at moderate prices.

In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard Elms
are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in low marshy
ground. In China, it is also grown in moist loamy soil,
and both there and in the East Indies, as low bushes, and
the plantations rooted up and renewed every three or four
years. In many parts, when the leaves are wanted for the
worms,, they are stripped off the young shoots, which are
left naked on the tree ; in other places, the shoots are cut
off, which is not so injurious to the tree, while the points of
the shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms.

The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce
of seed will produce 5000 trees, if sovvn in rich loamy soil,
the latter end of April, or early in May ; but the young
plants will require protection the first Winter ; they are
more commonly propagated by layers and cuttings, put
down in the Spring. The Italian variety is frequently
grafted on seedling stocks of the common sort, in order to
preserve it from degenerating. In the East Indies, the plant?

308 MULBERRY.

are raised from cuttings, three or four of which are placed
together, where they are finally to remain.

But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit ; and in
England the black and red kinds are in great esteem, and
much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry is white,
and less acid than that of the black species. The black is
naturally a stronger tree than the other ; the fruit is of a
dark blackish red, and of an agreeable aromatic and acid
flavour. The red Mulberry has black shoots, rougher
leaves than the black Mulberry, and a dark reddish fruit,
longer than the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste.
The fruit of the yellow Mulberry is very sweet and whole-
some, but not much eaten, excepting by birds ; the timber,
however, is valuable, from its abounding in a slightly gluti-
nous milk of a sulphureous colour, and is known in Europe
under the name of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour.

In Russia, the fruit of the Morus tartarica is eaten fresh,
conserved, or dried ; a wine and a spirit are also made
from them, but the berries are said to be of an insipid taste.

All species of the Morus are remakable for putting out
their leaves late, so that when they appear, gardeners may
safely set out their greenhouse plants, taking it for granted
that all danger from frost is over ; from this circumstance,
plantations of Mulberry trees may be made in this country
in the Spring of the year with greater safety..

The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots of
the same year, which arise on last year's wood and on
spurs from the two year old wood ; in both stages, mostly
at the ends of the shoots and the branches. In pruning,
thin out irregular crossing branches, but never shorten the
young wood, on which the fruit is produced. If any of th«
dwarfish kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut
so as to bring in a partial succession of new wood every
year, and a complete succession once in two years, taking
the old barren wood out, as may be necessary. As tbe
blossom buds cannot be readily distinguished from others in
the Winter, the best period for pruning is when the blossom*
ftrst become visible in the Spring.

There is another genus of plants, ki vn as the Paper

NECTARINE. 309

Mulberry, which is very ornamental, called Broussonetia
papyrifera ; though a low tree, it has vigorous shoots,
furnished with two large leaves ; the fruit, which is small, is
surrounded with long purple hairs, changing to a black
purple colour when ripe, and full of juice. " In China and
Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of the young shoots,
from the bark of which the inhabitants of the Eastern
countries make paper. The bark being separated from the
wood, is steeped in water, the former making the whitest
and best paper. The bark is next slowly boiled, then
washed, and afterwards put upon a wooden table, and beat
into a pulp. This pulp being put in water, separates like
grains of meal. An infusion of rice, and the root of man-
hiot are next added to it. From the liquor so prepared, th«
sheets of paper are poured out one by one, and when
pressed, the operation in finished."

"The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be used
in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or paper. The
finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people at
Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark
of this tree. The cloth of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior
in whiteness and softness, and worn chiefly by the common
people."

NECTARINE.

PECHERA FRUIT LISSE, ou BROGNONS. Amygdalus nectarine*.

THE varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in every
respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, of a waxen
appearance, and the flesh generally more firm ; although
of the same genus as the Peach, which is so plentiful in this
country, the fruit of the Nectarine is quite a rarity, and
seldom appears in our markets. There are seventy-two
varieties cultivated in the Horticultural Garden of London ;
and Nicol says, that i: no varieties of the Nectarine are at
present known to have originated in North America, except
"the Boston,"

310 NECTARINE.

It is generally allowed that their failure is occasioned by
the attacks of insects. The most efficacious method that I
have heard of, for securing any thing like a crop of
Nectarines, is to fumigate the trees in the evening, when
the air is calm and serene, at the season when this fruit is
ready to set, see pages 244 to 250. Tobacco is the most
effectual antidote for these insects ; butafrien'd of mine collec-
ted a quantity of salt hay that had been used for his spinach
the preceding Winter; with this he created a smoke, first on
one side of his plantation, and afterwards on the other, by
which means he obtained a good supply of fruit. Our
enterprising horticulturist, Mr. W. Shaw, has succeeded in
gathering fine fruit, by pursuing the English plan, namelyi
in training his trees against a close fence ; and it has been
discovered by others, that the Nectarine, like the Grape
Vine, will yield best in sheltered situations. That eminent
horticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, observes, that ** a vast
quantity of fruitis annually destroyed by by tlieCurculio which
causes the Plum, Apricot and Nectarine, prematurely to
drop from the tree. To prevent this loss, let the tree after
the blossoms fall, be frequently shaken by a cord connected
with a swinging door, or with a working pump-handle, &c. ;
or let the bugs be jarred from the tree and killed. Or keep
geese enough in the fruit garden to devour all the dama-
ged fruit as it falls. We know that this last method i»
infallible."

As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, for
fear of disturbing the fruit, such are here reminded, that if
the blossoms set more fruit than can be supported, it will not
come to full perfection, and the trees may be injured in their
future bearing ; for these reasons, when fruit sets too thick*
it shQuldbe thinned in an early stage of its growth.

The Nectarine, as also the Peach tree, are subject to injury
by an insect different to the Curculio species, which feeds on
sap beneath the bark, principally near the surface of the
earth ; but if not checked, will commit ravages on the trunk
and root, so as eventually to destroy the tree. The egg i s
supposed to be first deposited in the upper part of the tree ;
and in the months of June and July, it becomes a very small

I

NECTARINE. 311

f

maggot, which drops to the ground, and approaches the
tree near the surface. If the ground be kept clear around
the roots, as it ought always to be, the worm can readily be
detected by a small speck of gum, which appears on the tree
after it has made its entrance, which gumminess will increase
in quantity as it progresses ; but if the trees are thoroughly
examined about once a week or ten days, and the gum
wherever found, removed by means of a small knife or
pointed wire, the worm may he at once defeated from
making any havock on the trees. An orchard of several
acres may be kept free from worms by going over it a few
times. — After a shower of rain is a good time, as the gum
can then be more easily discovered, and when it is removed,
the wound will soon heal up, and the danger is over, pro-
vided the ground be kept cultivated around the trees ; and
the collar or that part from which emanate the main roots
be near the surface.

This is an important precaution, and should be attended
to at the time of transplanting all descriptions of trees and
smaller plants ; because deep planting prevents the essential
circulation of the juices of plants in their regular and natura
courses, and consequently causes disease and premature
death ; and it must be admitted, that from the circumstance
of this fruit being generally raised on standard trees, and in
aslight soil our cultivators are apt to plant too deep;
and thus act contrary to sound judgement and philosophy,
with a view to save the trouble and expense of staking or
otherwise supporting their newly planted trees, which pre-
caution is absoluteiy necessary to their preservation, even in
less tempestuous climates, and in stiff as well as in light soil.

Saltpetre dissolved in the proportion of one pound to five
gallons of water, and applied around the stems and roots of
trees, as recommended for plants in general, page 12 of the
general remarks, is, in my opinion, one of the best remedies
for the destruction of various kinds of insects ; it is moreover
allowed by modern and learned physiologists to contain the
most essential nutriment to all descriptions of trees or smaller

312

NECTARINE.

plants, when judiciously used. Other remedies are recom-
mended to be applied for the destruction of these insects
around fruit trees, besides those previously mentioned ; as
dissolved potash, coal tar, sulphur and lime*-mortar mixed,
vinegar, soap suds, &c. Culture, upon correct principles,
will, however, in general operate not only as a radical cure,
but as a preventive to all defects in trees and plants ; which
to be healthy and productive, should be so managed that
the sap and nutrimental juices can circulate through every
pore which Nature has designed for their perpetuity. (See
article on the choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery, page 259,
also article Peach.)

The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the same
species, or on Peach or Plum, two or three years old.
Knight recommends growing Almond stocks for the finer
kinds of Nectarines -and Apricots, as likely to prevent the
mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. Dubreuil recom-
mends a Plum stock for clayey soils, and the Almond for
such as are light, chalky, or sandy. The same opinion is
held by the Montreal gardeners. The Flemish nurserymen
graft both the Peach and Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum,
a very small cherry-shaped fruit.

The budding may be performed in July or August, in the
side of the stock, which will, if properly managed, shoot the
following Spring, and attain the length of three or four feet
the first year. " After the budded trees have ripened their
first year's shoots, they may either be planted where they
are to remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or
four years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants be
removed into the orchard at a year old, or remain in the
nursery, the first shoots from the bud must be headed down
in a judicious manner, in order to promote the most desirable
form. In annual pruning, thin out superfluous branches and
dry wood, and shorten the bearing shoots.

Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, in
private gardens ; in which case, such plants should be cho-
sen as are budded low. (See article Apricot)

:S13

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF HECTJfflGES,

FREESTONE NECTARINES.

AROMATIC. A middle sized, rather globular fruit, deep red or brown
next the sun ; flesh pale straw, but red at the stone ; juice of a rich
vinous flavour ; ripe early in August.

EARLY VIOLET, Violette Native, Petite Violette Hative, Lord Selscy's
Elruge, Large Scarlet. Fruit variable in size, generally medium ; pale
yellowish green, but darkish purple red next the sun ; flesh melting,
juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in August.

FAIRCHILD'S EARLY. Fruit very early, but small; of globular shape,
yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the sun; flesh yellow, not juicy,
but well flavoured ; ripe in July and August.

LEWIS'S SEEDLING. A fine native variety, raised by Mr. Lewis of
Boston; fruit of medium size; heart-shaped; colour bright yellow,
mottled with red; flesh yellow, firm, pleasant and peculiar in flavour ;
ripe in September.

MILLER'S EL RUG R: One of the very best and most high flavoured
nectarines; fruit medium size, of a dark red and pale yellow colour ;
pulp melting, very juicy, rich and higli flavoured ; ripens early h>
August.

PJTMASTON'S ORANGE. A good sized globular, or heart-shaped fruit,
of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or purple next th« sun; flesh
golden yellow, but red next the stone, from which it separates ; it i?
melting, juicy, saccharine and high flavoured ; ripe in August.

SCARLET. A middle sized fruit; of a beautiful scarlet colour next
the sun, and pale red on the shaded side ; the flesh separates from the
stone, and is at maturity in August.

VERMASH, True Vermash. This fruit is rather of small size, and
round form, tapering towards the eye ; the skin is of a very deep red
colour next the sun ; and of a greenish hue on the other side ; pulp
rich, melting and juicy ; at maturity in August.

WHITE, OR FLANDKRS NECTARINE, New White, Emerson s New White.
Neale's White. A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, slightly tinged
with red next the sun ; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine vinous fla-
vour. The Pomological Magazine describes this as a clingstone';
Lindley as a freestone.

CLINGSTONES, OR PAVIEF.

BRUGNOX VIOLET MUSQUE, Brugnon Musque. Fruit large ; of a
deep red and yellow colour ; skin very smooth ; flesh yellow, but red
at the stone ; saccharine, vinous, musky ; at maturity in August and
September.

27

314 ORANGE.

EARLY NEWINGTON, Early Black Newington, Lucombes Seedling. Fruit
below the middle size, ovate, skin pale green, and on the sunny side of
a deep red colour; pulp super-excellent; considered by some as the best
of all nectarines; ripe in August and September.

GOLDEN. Fruit medium size, of the finest orange colour, delicately
and beautifully mottled with red next the sun, which gives to it a clear
waxen appearance ; flesh firm, yellow/ pale red at the stone, and has a
poignant, rich flavour ; ripens in August and September.

ITALIAN, Brugnon or Italian. A large globular or pale yellow fruit,
marbled with dark red next the sun ; flesh firm, yellow, red at the stone,
juicy, rich and excellent ; ripe in August.

RED ROMAN, Roman Red. A very excellent nectarine, of large size ;
the skin dark red next the sun, and of a yellowish hue on the other side ;
Hesh yellowish, but red next the atone ; it abounds with rich juice when
fully ripe, in August and September.

SCARLET NEWINGTON, Late Newington. Old Newington. This variety
is much esteemed ; the fruit large, of a beautiful red colour next the sun,
and of a fine yellow on the other side ; its quality is excellent, being
rich and juicy ; early in September.

TAWNY NEWINGTON. Fruit large, somewhat ovate ; tawny-coloured,
marbled with dull red or orange next the sun; flesh pale yellow, but
red at the stone; very juicy, sugary, and of the mo.t delicious flavour*'
ripens in August and, September.

ORANGE, LEMON, &c.

GRANGER, CITRONIEB, &c. Citrus.

NOTWITHSTANDING this fruit, and also the Lemon, Lime,
&c., are attainable at all seasons of the year, by supplies
from our Southern States, the West Indies, and the South
of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to our notice on
account of their being so easily cultivated, and from their
affording an ornament by exhibiting their fruit the whole of
the year.

The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, are
generally cultivated as green-house plants, but may be
kept in a light room throughout our severe Winters, provided
the temperature is not suffered to be below the freezing
point, 32°. Its recommendations are, handsome evergreen,
shining, tree-like forms ; most odoriferous flowers, and

315

brilliant, fragrant, delicious fruits, which succeed each
other perpetually, and are not unfrequently seen on the
tree at the same time, in two or three stages of growth. A
work has recently been published at Paris, edited by Messrs.
Risso and Poiteau, which contains engravings and descrip-
tions of one hundred and sixty-nine varieties. They are
arranged as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 sorts ;
bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts ; Bergamots, 5 sorts ;
Limes, 8 sorts ; Shaddocks, 6 sorts ; Lumes, 12 sorts ;
Lemons, 46 sorts; Citrons, 17 sorts.

All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice,
Genoa, and Naples ; but at Florence and Milan, and often
at Rome, they require protection during the Winter, and are
generally planted in conservatories and sheds. In England,
these trees have been cultivated since 1629; they are gene-
rally planted in conservatories. Loudon says that in the
south of Devonshire, and particularly at Saltcombe, may be
seen, in a few gardens, Orange trees that have withstood the
Winter in the open air upwards of a hundred years. The
fruit is as large and fine as any from Portugal. Trees raised
from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are found to bear the
cold better than trees imported.

At Nuueham, near Oxford, are some fine old trees, planted
under a moveable case, sheltered by a north wall. In
Summer, the case is removed, and the ground turfed over,
so that the whole resembles a native Orange grove. The
author of this work, being a native of Abingdon, which is
within three miles of the Earl of Harcourt's estate, Jias ha£
frequent opportunities of tasting the fruit, which he believes
to be equal to that of warmer climates. At Woodhall, near
Hamilton, trees of all the species of Citrus are trained
against the back walls of forcing-houses, and produce large
crops of fruit.

Any of the varieties of the Orange, Lemon, Lime Shad-
dock, Citron, &c., may be grafted or budded on stocks of
the common Orange, or Lemon ; but the seeds of Shaddocks
and Citrons produce the strongest stocks; and on these may
be engrafted such kinds as may be needed for a conservatory.
The most suitable time for budding is July and August ;

316 PEAOH..

§

but this operation may be performed at any time when the
sap is in motion. The directions for the management of
greenhouse plants, apply also to this family of plants, to
which I refer my readers. A friend of mine, who is a native
of Rouen, in Normandy, informs me, that a Mr. Valee, of
that city, succeeds in clearing about twelve thousand
francs per annum from the flowers of Orange trees, which
are distilled for essences, &c.

PEACHo

PECKER. Amygdalus Persica.

IT is generally considered that the Peach is of PersiaB
origin. In Medea, it is deemed unwholesome ; but when
planted' in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious, and salubrious.
It has been cultivated, time immemorial, in most parts of
Asia ; when it was introduced into Greece, is uncertain.
The best Peaches in Europe are supposed to be grown in
Italy, on standards.

The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, contains
two hundred and twenty -four names, fifty of which are
denominated American Peaches. Several attempts have
been made to class the varieties of Peaches and Nectarines
by the leaf and flower, as well as the fruit. Mr. Robertson,
a nurseryman at Kilkenny, has founded his arrangement
on the glands of the leaves ; and Mr. George Lindley, of
London, has, in a peculiarly distinct manner, arranged no
fewer than one hundred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and;
Nectarines in well-defined divisions and sections. There
are various instances on record, (Hort. Trans, vol. 1, p. 103,)
of both fruits growing on the same tree, even on the same
branch ; and one case has occurred of a single fruit
partaking of the nature of both. The French consider them,
as one fruit, arranging them in four divisions ; the Peches,
or free-stone Peaches; the Peches Usses, or free-stone
Nectarines, or free-stone Peaches ; the Pavies, or cling-

PE1CH.

stone Peaches ; and the Brognons, or Nectarines, or cling-
stone smooth Peaches.

Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet, pulverized
soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam is the most
suitable. Next to the selection and preparation of a suitable
soil, a choice of good healthy trees is of the utmost impor-
tance. The seeds for stocks should be selected from the
vigorous-growing young, or mkldle-aged healthy trees ; and
the buds should be taken from some of the choicest fruit-
bearing trees that can be found. Let the stocks be fairly
tested before they are budded, and if any infection exist in
the stocks, or in the vicinity of where the choice of buds
may fall, reject them, if you wish to rear a healthy progeny ;
as more depends on these particular points than many are
aware of.

In this country, the Peach is generally budded on stocks
of its own kind ; but in England it is often budded on
damask Plum stocks, and some of the more delicate sorts
on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees cut down : or on
seedling Peaches, Almonds or Nectarines. (See article
Nectarine. (Cobbett says, " there are thousands of Peach
trees in England and France that are fifty years old, and
that are still in vigorous fruitfulness." He attributes the
swift decay of the Peach tree here to their being grafted on
stocks of their kind."

Mr. Michael Floy, of the Harlaem Nursery, in a note,
page 364 of the American edition of Lindley's Guide to the
Orchard and Fruit Garden, edited by him, makes the fol-
lowing observations on this subject, which he says are the
results of thirty years' experience as a nurseryman in the
vicinity of New- York : —

" In this country Peaches are generally budded on Peach
stocks. Their growth is very rapid, and they will form a
tree large enough to transplant from the nursery, the first
and second year after budding; but notwithstanding the
rapid growth of our Peaches, and their coming to maturity
so early, with but little care and trouble, it must at the same
time be admitted that they too often come to decay with
almost the same celerity. A question here will naturally

27*

318 PEACH.

arise on this subject, what can be done to remedy this ? I
answer, first, I think the Peach stock is defective ; it is not
sufficiently strong and lasting to make a permanent tree ;
the roots are soft and delicate, very liable to rot in cold
heavy ground, particularly if suffered to stand in a sod, or
where the ground is not kept clean, dry, and manured every
season. Secondly > Supposing that the trees are planted in
a warm, free soil, (which is the proper soil for the Peach,)
they are liable to the attacks of the worm, which eats into
their roots, and barks the trees all round, until they conv
pletely destroy them. No better method of destroying these
worms has been discovered, than simply digging round the
trees, and examining the infested plants, and where gum is
seen oozing out, there the worm may generally be found and
destroyed."

" I think an effectual remedy against this intruder may be
found', by budding Peaches and Nectarines on the common
bitter ALMOND STOCK. The worm does not like this stock.
Peaches will take on it, and grow nearly as free as on the
common Peach stock. Thirdly, The Peach stock causes
the Peaches and Nectarines to grow too rapidly, making,
very strong shoots, these producing secondary or lateral
shoots; and the fruit of the following Summer is produced
on the top of these lateral shoots, instead of being produced
on the principal or first shoots; this causes naked wood at
the bottom, and a straggling unsightly tree, whose branches
being heavy at the top with the fruit, are broken down by
high winds. Fourthly, In addition to all this, the trees are
of late years subject to what has been deemed a disease
called the yellows, from the circumstance of the trees
having a yellow and sickly appearance. Much curious
philosophy has been spent on this subject without arriving
at any satisfactory conclusion."

Mr. Floy, after discovering that the Almond stock is
susceptible of injury from our Northern Winters in extreme
cold weather, further recommends the Plum Stock in cold
latitudes, and the Almond for our Southern States — hear
him : —

** The Plum stock is undoubtedly the best for Peache*

PBACH. , 319'

and Nectarines in the Northern and Eastern States, but
especially for open dwarfs or espaliers, for which I give the
following reasons -.—First, The Plum stock prevents the
too rapid growth of the shoots, and causes the principals to
bear the fruit the following season, instead of producing
lateral shoots the same season, and causing the tree to be
more dwarf; the branches strong and fruitful to the bottom
of the shoot, thereby having more fruit in: a smaller
compass. Secondly, It makes harder and less pithy wood}.
and enables it the belter to withstand the cold ; and this
may be easily proved by cutting the branches of each — the
shoot on the Plum stock will be twice as hard and firm as
the one on the Peach stock; but Thirdly, and the most
important reason is, that the Plum stock ceases to send up
its sap early in Autumn, causing the Peach to perfect its
wood before the cold weather sets in."

As the failure of this fruit of late years has elicited consi-
derable discussion and observation, which increases in
interest annually, I hereby offer an exposition of my views
on the subject, by a comparison between vegetable and
animal matter, which I humbly conceive bear a striking
assimilation to each other. If the reader should, deem my
arguments as visionary or speculative, I would remind him,
that the grave importance of the subject fully justifies this
or any other attempt at elucidation.

Having in page 311 shown the error of deep planting all
descriptions of trees and plants, I would here observe, that
a tree brought into a state of disease, by which the circulation
of its nutrimental juices is impeded, and its bark injured,
is very similarly situated to a timber post inserted in the
soil ; which every one knows, will rot between earth and air
however sound its other parts may be?

In venturing a comparison between vegetable and animal
matter, I would first refer the reader to page 281, where I
have shown that a Chestnut tree has been known to live

PEACff.

over a thousand years ; and -that its timber, cut in proper
season, is supposed to be in durability, commensurate with
the age of the growiifg tree. It is also recorded in history ^
that animal subjects preserved on the Egyptian principle,
have been known to keep as long as the most durable
timber; while daily experience shows, that corrupt animal
and vegetable substances, not only become a prey to the
most noxious insects and reptiles, but will generate them in
incalculable numbers.

-It is also evident, that a tree deprived of its functions or
means of growing luxuriantly, is in a similar situation to a
diseased animal. If disease be not checked before the
juices of the tree become putrid, it will not only die, but
will contaminate the earth in which it is planted, to the
destruction of its neighbouring inmates of the garden or
field. All experienced nurserymen admit this to be the case
with diseased Peach trees, and some have actually aban-
doned their Peach orchards, and chosen fresh ground for
new plantations.

It is precisely the same with "smaller vegetable plants^
A diseased Cabbage, for instance, by its excremental and
corrupt juices being spent in the ground, will render the
cultivation of the same or allied species a casualty; and daily
observation teacheth, that young and thrifty plants often
fall a prey to worms and reptiles which were generated by
a previous crop.

It is moreover evident, that all those enemies of the
vegetable family feed on the same descriptions of vegetable
matter which first generated them ; hence the Peach insects
feed on its fruit in embryo, as well as in a state at, and even
beyond perfection ; the Cabbage worms prey on plants of
the same genera or species ; and I have no doubt but the
cotton worms prefer the same description of vegetable matter
which gave them birth, and that when these insects and
reptiles cannot obtain the parts which are the most palatable
to them, or congenial to their nature, they will feed upon
diseased trees, plants, or any other matter which contain
similar juices or nutriment. I again repeat, that the best
security against their depredations is health and soundness.

PEACH. 331

A good sound healthy tree, planted and cultivated upon
correbt principles, may be justly considered as invulnerable
to the attacks of insects and reptiles, as any species of
healthy animal creature in existence.

As I have been more familiar with the cultivation of
vegetables than fruits, I would state further my views
relative to the Cabbage tribe. On New- York Island in the
vicinity of the City, it is customary with gardeners to cut
their Cabbages gradually as they are required for market,
and often to leave their roots standing ; these bj some are
ploughed under; where they not only feed, but generate
their peculiar species of insects. Some gardeners take
their roots and leaves to the cattle yard or dung heap, and
return them back to the garden the ensuing season in the
shape of manure. As a consequence of such practice, good
Cabbages are very seldom obtained, even after a routine of
other crops, for two or three years.

With a view to illustrate the evil of deep planting, I
would observe furrier, that when Cabbage plants a*«e
transplanted in proper seasons and on good fresh soil, they
generally prove uniformly good; whereas if it should
happen, as it sometimes does, for want of suitable weather,
that the plants cannot be transplanted until they get crooked
and overgrown, so as to require deep planting to support
them in the soil, such plants, like diseased Peach trees,
decay first in the bark, between earth and air, and then from
being deprived of a natural circulation of the vegetable
juices, die, and discharge their putrid matter in the earth,
to the destruction of such other plants as may be inserted
in their stead. I have frequently known a land of Cabbage
plants filled up half a dozen times, and the crop at last
scarcely worth gathering, whereas could the plants have
been set out while dwarfish, and inserted their proper depth
in the ground, the cultivator would have been rewarded a
hundred fold.

I dislike tautology, but cannot avoid repeating my humble
opinion, that deep planting and injudicious culture are the
causes of most diseases and failures of fruit trees ; and in
this way I account for Peaches being less plentiful

322 .

they were, when left almost to Nature, which was the case I
am informed in the beginning of the present century. That
this malpractice in horticulture is very general, the most
superficial observer may discover, by comparing the thrifty
growth of those trees scattered by Nature in our highways
and byways with many of those aided by the art of man. If
any of my readers should require proof of my assertions, I
can show them from the window of the room where this
article was composed, scores of living, or rather dying,
evidences of the evil of deep planting.

All the varieties of the Peach produce their fruit upon the
young wood of a year old, the blossom buds rising immedi-
ately from the eyes of the shoots. The same shoots seldom
bear after the first year, except on some casual small spurs
on the two year's wood, which is not to be counted upon.
Hence the trees are to be pruned as bearing entirely on the
shoots of the preceding year, and a full supply of regular
grown shoots must be retained for successional bearers.
Cut out the redundant shoots, and all decayed and dead
wood, and reduce some of the former bearers, cutting the
most naked quite away.

A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after the
bud is established, until the trees are three or four years
old, which may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet from
each other, or from any other spreading trees. The dwarf
kinds may be introduced into the kitchen garden, and
trained against fences, as directed for the Apricot, or as
espaliers, or dwarf standards.

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES,

FREESTONE PEACHES.

At-Ton. An excellent variety, originating in the city of New-York;
the fruit is above medium size ; skin pale yellow, with red cheek ; flesh
melting and pleasant flavoured; juice sweet and plentiful; ripe the
latter end of August and early in September.

BELLE CHEVEREUSE, Chevereuse Hative, Early- Chevereuse. Fruit
medium size, oblong form, and of a red and yellow colour ; ripens in
August; the pulp is rich, juicy, and sugary; tree a good bearer, and.
the fruit highly esteemed.

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. ' 323

BELLE DE VITRT, Admirable Tardive, Bellis. A large fruit, of fine
red colour next the sun, on the opposite side a yellowish white ; flesh
white, stained wTith red at the stone ; firm, juicy, sweet, vinous and ex-
cellent; ripe early in September.

BELLEGARDE, Galande, Fiolette Native, Noire de Mon'.reuU. The
tree is vigorous and productive ; fruit above medium size, globular ;
skin greenish yellow, and on the sunny side rich deep red, with dark
purple streaks ; flesh pale yellow, very melting, saccharine and juicy ;
a first-rate fruit, early in September.

BREVOORT'S SEEDLING MELTER. A superior peach, raised by Henry
Brevoort, Esq. of New-York; skin of a dingy white colour, with red
cheek; flesh white, firm, rich, and sugary; ripe by the 'middle of
August.

DOUBLE MOXTAGNE, Sion, Early Double Mountain. A beautiful and
excellent peach of middle size; skin greenish white, but soft red, mar-
bled with a deeper red next the sun ; flesh white and melting ; juice
plentiful and highly flavoured ; ripe in August.

GREEN NUTMFG, Ear'y Anne, Avant Blanche. This variety is said to
have originated in Berkshire, England. The fruit is small ; its colour
yellowish green; its pulp melting, juicy, of very pleasant flarour, and
ripens early in August Murray's Early Anne is a variety raised from
the seed of this.

EARLY ORAXGE, Yellow Fare Ripe, Yellow Mulacotan, Rare Ripe
Early Yellow. Fruit under a medium size, inclining to the oval shape,
apex full, with a small tip ; skin greenish yellow ; flesh a fine yellow,
juice rich and sweet, but not plentiful; ripe in August. There are
several varieties under the same name, some of which are inferior to
the true Orange Peach.

EARLY ROYAL GEORGE. A superior variety, of medium size, and
rather globular form ; skin yellow, with red cheek; flesh melting and
delicious ; in August. There are several varieties cultivated under
this name, differently described.

EMPEROR OF RUSSIA, Serrated Leaf, New Cut-Leaved Unique. The
fruit of this species is deeply cleft, one half of it projecting considerably
beyond the other ; the skin is downy, of a brownish yellow and red
colour; flesh melting; juice sweet and delicious; towards the end of
August. This sort was found by Mr. Floy, in New Jersey, 1809, and
all the stones of this fruit are said to produce pknts with jagged leaves.

FORD'S SEEDLIXG. A middle sized peach of a beautiful pale rose
colour, marbled with bright red; flesh yellowish green quite to the
stone from which it separates ; juice plentiful, and of a rich poignant
flavour ; in August and September.

GEORGE THE FOURTH. An excellent peach, of medium size and
globular shape; of pale yellow colour in the shade, and dark red next
the sun ; flesh yellow, but red at the stone from which it separates ; a
fruit of very superior flavour when at maturity, which is early in Sep-
tember ; it originated in the garden of Mr. Gill, Broad-street, New-York.

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEACHES,

GROSSE MIGNON, Vehutee deMerlet, GittntcoocTs Royal George, Largi,
French Mignon, Vlneuse. One of the most beautiful and delicious
varieties in cultivation. The fruit is large, of a beautiful red or rose
^colour, and greenish yellow ; pulp tender, juicy and high flavoured
when in perfection, which is early in September.

HEATH FREESTONE, Kenrick's heath. This variety was first obtained
from the late General Heath, of Roxbury, near Boston. The fruit is
very large, oblong and beautiful, frequently weighing half a pound ;
colour pale yellowish green, with crimson or violet next the sun; -its
-flesh is melting, juicy, rich, vinous, agreeably acid, and good ; ripens
late in September and October.

HOFFMAN'S POUND, Morrison's Pound. This fruit is by some called
the Morrissania, from its having been first obtained by Mr. Floy, from
Governeur M-orris ; but it originated -with Martin Hoffman, Esq.
of New-York. The fruit is very large ; skin brownish white and red ;
flesh yellow, firm, very juicy and delicious, parting from the stone ;
.greatly esteemed from its ripening late, in September and October.

LATE ADMIRABLE, Royale, Royal, Sourdine, Fruit large, roundish,
inclining to oblong ; sature deeply impressed along one side, having the
flesh swelling boldly and equally on both sides, with a slight impression
on the summit ; skin downy, of pale green colour, streaked with dull
tawny red ; flesh white, delicate, melting, juicy and high flavoured ; a
magnificent peach, ripening in September. Mr. Prince has the Teton
de Venus under this head as a synonyme ; but it is generally considered
a distinct variety.

MALTA, Peche Matte, Belle de Paris, Matte de Normandie, Italian
Peach. Fruit above the medium size ; colour pale yellowish green,
marbled with purplish red ; flesh yellow,_jr,icy, rich, vinous, and of
superior flavour; ripens at the end of August.

MADELEINE DE COURSON, Madeleine Rouge, Rouge Paysanne, Red
Magdalen of Miller. An excellent fruit, of large size, and fine yellow
and red colour ; ripens at the end of August; flesh firm, white, but red
at the ttone ; sugary and very rich

MAMMOTH, Saarte Mout, or Aunt Sarah's Peach. A large variety
cultivated in New-York under the latter name in the eighteenth century t
by H. Brevoort; its s-kin is pale green, with a brownish cast on the
exposed side ; flesh greenish yellow, sweet and rich, separating freely
from the stone ; early in September.

MONSTROUS LEMON, Largest Lemon. This variety was first discov-
ered in the garden of Mr. Tiebout, now Union Place ; the fruit is of the
largest size, and in the gardens of two persons in New-York, has
weighed seventeen ounces, as stated by Mr. Prince. He says the tree
does not bear well, unless the situation is a sheltered one ; the fruit is
late in ripening.

MORRIS'S RED FREESTONE, Red Rare Ripe. Fruit nearly round, of
iarge size, apex a little sunken ; skin greenish yellow, with red cheek ;

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 325

flesh delicious and melting; a first-rate variety; ripe towards the end
of August.

MORRIS'S WHITE FREESTONE, White Rare Ripe, Luscious White Rare
Ripe, Philadelphia Freestone. Fruit large, and inclining to the oval
form, sature even, but not deep ; apex a little sunken ; skin white or
rather yellowish ; flesh white, juicy, rich and sweet ; ripe in September.
NEIL'S EARLY PURPLE, Early Purp'e of Miller, Johnson's Purple
Avant, Padley's Early Purple, Veritable Pourprec Hativc, Peche du Vin.
One of the most beautiful of peaches ; of medium size ; skin yellow,
but on the sunny side of a fine deep red and purplish colour ; it ripens
by the middle of August ; flesh melting, juicy, with a rich vinous flavour ;
an excellent fruit

NEW ROYAL CHAKLOTPE. Queen Charlotte, New Early Purple, Kew
Early Purple. A delicious peach, rather above medium size ; skin pale
greenish white, with deep red next the sun ; flesh greenish white, rich
and agreeable ; ripe in August.

NOBLESSE, Mellish's Favourite. The tree is of a vigorous growth,
and very productive ; fruit large, somewhat oval ; of a pale red colour,
marbled with different shades ; pulp juicy, rich, and melting when at
maturity, which is in August and September.

PRESIDENT. This variety originated at Bedford, on Long Island.
It is a rich, melting, juicy fruit, of large size, roundish, with a shallow
sature ; skin very downy, dull red next the sun, pale yellowish green
in the shade ; the surface covered with small red dots ; a first-rate peach ;
ripe in September.

RED CHEEK MALACATCJXE, Yellow Malacaton, Albcrge Incomparable,
Lady Gallutin Probyn Peach, Hoggs1 Malacaton. This variety origin-
ated at the Flushing Nursery; the fruit is of large size and oval form ;
its colour is yellow, with a red cheek on the sunny side ; the flesh is
also yellow, melting, rich, juicy and luscious. There is another variety
of this fruit, which originated with Mr. Polls, of New- York, said to be
very productive, and of excellent quality; ripens in September.

ROYAL KE.VSI.VQTO.V. An excellent variety, of medium size ; skin
pale greenish yellow, marbled with red ; flesh pale yellow ; juice rich,
and of a highly vinous flavour ; ripe in August.

SMOOTH-LEAVED ROYAL GEORGE. This is considered by Lindley as
a very superior variety ; fruit above the middle size, globular, depres-
sed; skin yellowish white, but of a beautiful red or carmine colour
next the sun ; flesh melting ; juice plentiful, and of a high vinous flavour ;
early in September.

SWEET WATER, Early Sweet Water. This variety is said to have
originated at Flushing ; its form is round, and its colour whitish green,
with a red blush at maturity, which is early in August ; the flesh is very
tender, melting, rich and juicy.

T.ETON DE VENUS. There are two or three varieties bearing this
name ; the fruit of the best variety is large, globular ; of a pale yellowish
green colour, marbled with red ; flesh greenish yellow, but red at the
stone; a delicious flavoured peach; ripe in September.

326 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEACHED

VAN ZANDT'S SUPERB, Waxen Rare Ripe. This variety originated
with Mr. Van Zandt, of Flushing ; its form is oval ; its skin smooth,,
somewhat mottled, and of a beautiful waxen appearance ; flesh melting,
and of excellent flavour ; in August and September.

WASHINGTON PEACH, Boyce Peach. A first-rate peach ; colour a
pale yellow in the shade, but dark red next the sun ; flesh very juicy
and delicious ; ripens towards the end of August. A peculiar trait in
this peach, is its rapid growth; it will, while ripening, in about ten days,
nearly double its ordinary size, weighing over half a pound.

WHITE BLOSSOM, Willow Peach, White Blossomed Incomparable.
This variety originated on Long Island ; the fruit is perfectly white, of
an oval form and handsome appearance ; the flesh is also white, melt-
ing, juicy and pleasant ; it is much used for preserves when not over
ripe, and is at full maturity in September.

YELLOW ADMIRABLE, dbricote'c, Admirable Jaune, Pcche D' Orange,
Grosse Jaune, Peche de Burai, Sandalie, Hermaphrodite, Apricot Peach.
The fruit of this variety is large ; yellow white immature, but laved
with red when ripe ; flesh firm, yellow ; flavour similar to the apricot ;
ripe late in September.

PAVIES, OR CLIXGSTOXE PEACHES.

CATHERINE. Fruit large, round, variable; colour a beautiful ret!
next the sun, marbled and dashed with darker shades ; pale yellow in
the shade ; flesh very white, tinged with yellow; juice abundant, and of
very rich and sweet flavour ; tr6e a good bearer ; its fruit ripe in
September.

CONGRESS CLINGSTONE. A fine large round peach ; skin yellowish
white, marbled with red ; flesh melting, juicy, and of delicious flavour ;
in September.

EARLY NEWIXGTOS, Smith's Ncicington, New-York Early Newington.
A much esteemed fruit ; its colour in the shade is white, but next the
sun red; its form is globular : its flesh is juicy, rich, and high flavoured.
The tree is productive, and the fruit matures in August.

HRATU, HEATH CLINGSTONE, Late Heath, Late October. Mr. Prince
says, that the original tree of this variety was discovered growing wild
on the farm of the late Judge Willet, of Flushing, and took its name
from its being found in a barren field. The fruit is very large, of oval
or oblong form ; the skin is downy, nearly all white ; the flesh is pecu-
liarly rich and highly flavoured, tender, melting, and juicy. There is
another variety mentioned by Mr. Kenrick, and called by the same
name, said to have been raised from a stone brought by Mr. Heath
from^the Mediterranean.

INCOMPARABLE, Pavie Admirable. The fruit of this esteemed variety
is large and roundish ; the skin pale yellow colour, shaded with scarlet
or deep crimson next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, juice^sugary and well
flavoured ; ripe in September-

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES.' 327

LEMON CLINGSTONE, Kennedy's Carolina, Pine Apple Clingstont,
Hoytcs Lemon Clingstone, Lemon Largest, Large Yellow Pine Apple.
This fruit is »f large size and oval shape ; yellow in the shade, but
bright red next the sun ; it resembles a lemon, having a nipple at the
apex ; some have weighed twelve ounces ; its flesh is firm, and is at
maturity in New-York by the end of September.

MONSTROUS PAVIB OF POMPONNE, Gros Molecoton, Gros Persiqw,
Rouge. Pavie Monttreux, Panic, Cornu. Fruit very large, roundish,
with an obtuse nipple ; skin downy, of a fine red and greenish white
colour; flesh" white, deep red at the stone, juicy and vinous, excellent
for. preserving ; in October.

NEW- YORK WHITE CLINGSTONE, Williams' s New-York. Fruit large,
round, with a pointed tipex; skin white, tinged with rose j flesh yellow,
fuelling or soft, but adhering closely to the stone ; juice very plentiful,
sweet, luscious and high flavoured. Ripe in September.

OLD MIXON CLINGSTONE. Of all clingstone peaches, this is consi-
dered the most delicious ; the skin is yellow, with a bright red cheek,
marbled ; flesh red at the stone, rich, juicy, sweet and high flavoured ;
the fruit ripens gradually in September. This variety is cultivated in
Massachusetts under the above name, but the tree and fruit are so
similar to the Old Newington, as to render it doubtful whether it is a
distinct variety.

OLD NEWINGTOST, Newington. The fruit of this variety is large, rather
globular, of a fine bright red and pale yeilow colour, marbled with
dashes and streaks of a deeper colour; the flesh is yellowish white>
•but red at the stone ; also juicy, rich, sweet, and well flavoured ; the tree
is very productive, in September.

PAVIE MADELEINE, Pavic Blanc, Melecoton, Myrecoton, Merlicoton)
Persique a Gros-Fruit Blanc. The fruit of this variety is of medium
size, somewhat broadly globular ; skin pale yellowish white and mar-
bled red; flesh yellowish white to the stone; juice sugary and of au
agreeable flavour ; towards the end of August and in September.

PEAR,

POIRIER. Pyrus.

THE Pear tree, in its wild state, is thorny, with upright
branches, tending to the pyramidal form, in which it differs
materially from the Apple tree. The twigs, or sprays,
hang down ; the leaves are elliptical, obtuse, serrate ; the
flowers in terminating, villose corymbs, produced from wood
$f the preceding year, or from buds gradually formed on the

328 PEAR.

several years' growth, on the extremities of very short
protruding shoots, technically called spurs. It is found in
a wild state in England, and abundantly in France and
Germany, as well as in other parts of Europe, not excepting
Russia, as far North as lat. 51. It grows in almost any
soil. The cultivated tree differs from the Apple, not only
in having a tendency to the pyramidal form, but also in
being more apt to send out tap roots ; it being, as a seed-
ling plant, longer (generally from fifteen to eighteen years)
in coming into bearing ; and when on its own root, or
grafted on a wild Pear stock, of being much longer Ir.ed.
In a dry soil, it will exist for centuries, and still keep its
health, productiveness, and vigour. There are fewer good
sorts of Pears, in proportion to the number of current
varieties than Apples. The Romans had thirty-six varieties
in Pliny's time: there are now several hundreds in the
French and British nurseries; the London Horticultural
Catalogue contains the names of six hundred and twenty-
%wa. Professor Van Monsr of Brussels, and M. Duquessie*
of Mons, fruited about eight thousand seedling Pears, from
which they obtained nearly eight hundred sorts worth culti-
vating, (Neil's Hort. Jour.) The varieties are divided by
the French into different classes of fruits, which are
designated as Beurrees, Crevers, Poiree, <fcc.

CRITERION OF A GOOD PEAR. — Dessert Pears are charac-
terized by a sugary aromatic juice, with the pulp soft and
sub-liquid, or melting, as in the Beurrees, or Butter Pears ;
or of a firm and crisp consistence, or breaking as in the
Winter Bergamots. Kitchen Pears should be of a large size,
with the flesh firm, neither breaking nor melting, and
rather austere than sweet. Perry Pears may be either large
or small ; but the more austere the taste, the better will be
the liquor ; excellent perry is made from the wild Pear.

Pear trees are propagated by grafting in the Spring, or
budding late in the Summer, and also by seed taken from
the best sorts for the purpose of obtaining new varieties. In
raising Pear stocks, the wild Pear is preferred in Europe, as
being calculated to produce plants more hardy and durable
than the cultivated sorts ;. and for dwarfing and precocity,
the Quince is preferred*

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 329

The Pear is a much handsomer upright growing tree
than the Apple ; more durable, and its wood hard and
valuable for the turner and millwright; ;but its blossoms
being white, are less showy than those of the Apple.

A Pear Orchard may be planted at any time after the
trees are two years* old from the graft ; and as trees from
young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or
twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any
time within that period. They may be planted at from
twenty to thirty-five feet distance from each other, according
to the nature of tire tree. The dwarf varieties may be planted
in the kitchen garden, and trained either as espaliers or
dwarf standards.

Standard Pear trees will require but little pruning after
the heads are once formed ; in doing which, the branches
should be permitted to extend on all sides freely. Several
years may elapse before any cross-placed, very irregular, or
crowded branches, require pruning ; yet there are some
kinds whose form of growth resembles the Apple ; such
will need frequent pruning. " The Pear tree," Mr. Phail
says, " does not produce blossoms on the former year's
wood, as several other sorts of trees do. Its blossom buds
are formed upon spurs growing out of wood over one year
old, and, consequently, projecting spurs all over the tree
must be left for that purpose." In some Pears, Knight
observes, " the fruit grows only on the inside of those
branches which are exposed to the Sun and air; in others
it "occupies every part of the tree." Withering says, that
" the French make perry, or poire, from the fermented juice
of the Pear, which is little inferior to wine; and that even
the bad eating kinds, pared and dried in an oven, will keep
several years with or without sugar.

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS,

SUMMER FRUIT.

DKAIBORH'B SLEDLING. Thisvariety originated in the garden ofthe
Hon. H A. S. Dearborn, of Roxbury, The tree is of vigorous growth :

28*

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS.

fruit of medium size, rounded at the crown, and regularly diminishes
in a parabolic manner to the stalk; the skin is smooth, thin, green,
with russet spots; at maturity it turns to a delicate yellow ; flesh very
melting, and of the finest flavour; in August.

GOVERNOR STUYVESANT. This pear took its name from its having
been first cultivated at Stuyvesant's farm on New-York Island. The
original tree is upwards of 200 years old, and produces fruit in August
of a medium size, of a greenish yellow colour ; juicy, sweet, aromatic
and excellent.

JARGONELLE, Epargne, Beau Present, Saint Sampson, Grosse Cuisse
Madame, Saint Lambert, Poire des Tables des Princes. Fruit rather
large, oblong, of a pale green colour, a little marked with red ; flesh
melting, juicy, with a slightly acid, rich and agreeable flavour. It
ripens early in August, is one of the most productive of all pears, and
the very best in its season.

JULIENNE OF COXE, ItAftMdm D'Ete, Summer Beurre, Summer
Doyenne, Summer St. Michael, so called near Boston, Bloodgood Pear
of New*York. Fruit medium size, smooth, bright yellow at maturity,
with a faint blush next the sun ; form rather ovate, tapering towards
the stalk ; flesh perfectly melting, rich and juicy. The tree bears young,
and most profusely, and matures its fruit in August and September.

LONDON SUGAR. This fruit is below medium size; colour greenish
yellow, tinged with brown; form turbinate, narrowed at the crown;
flesh tender, melting, saccharine, of a rich musky flavour ; an excel-
lent early fruit, and very productive. Ripe in July and August.

MADELEINE, Magdalene, Citron des Carmes, Early Chaumontelle.
This pear is of medium size, pale yellow, with an occasional blush
next the sun ; flesh white, melting, perfumed. A fine old fruit, ripen-
ing towards the end of July.

PREMATURE; A new pear, about the size of the Crawford, but more
juicy and delicious, and remarkably early ; it commands a good price in
the markets of Edinburgh, Scotland, and is reputed a most superior
early fruit, ripening in July and August.

ROUSSELET DE RHEi>is, Petit Rousselet. Fruit small, pyramidal,
greenish yellow at maturity, but brown red next the sun, with russetty
spots ; flesh half beurre, fine, very perfumed. Good to put in brandy,
and to dry ; in August and September,

SABII?E o'ExE. This pear is of pyramidal form, terminating in a
round blunt point at the stalk ; colour yellow, but fine scarlet next the
sun; the whole surface smooth, regular and polished; flesh white,
melting, juicy and highly perfumed ; the tree is an abundant bearer, and
ripens its fruit in August

SKINLESS PEAR, Poire sans Pcau, Fleur de Guignes. A small oblong
psar ; the skin, which is very smooth and thin, is pale green, marbled
with red and yellow ; flesh crisp, sweet, and of pleasant flavour; the
tree is very prolific, ripening its fruit in August.

SUMMER FRANCREAL, Francrcal d' Etc , Fondante, France Cancel, Gros

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEARS.' 33 t

Micet d'Ete. Fruit above medium size ; shape oblong, thickest about
one-third from the eye ; skin yellowish green ; flesh melting, rich and
excellent; ripe early in September.

SUMMER ROSE, Thorny Rose, Epinc Rose, Poire de Rose, JRosenbirne
Kraft. A pear of medium size, in form resembling an apple ; the skin
is dull yellow, spotted with russet, and marbled with red; a very pro-
ductive variety, ripening its fruit early in August.

WILLIAMS'S BONCHRETIEN, Bartlet. This fruit originated with a Mr.
Wheeler, at Aldermaston, in Berkshire, England, but was subsequently
extensively propagated by Mr. Williams, near London — hence its
name. The fruit is large, oblong ; the stalk thick and fleshy, an inch
long; the colour at maturity yellow, tinged with red; flesh whitish,
very melting, and delicate ; juice perfumed, sweet and abundant. Tree
very productive, and fruit ripe by the end of August.

WINDSOR, Guise Madame of the French. A middle sized oblong
pear ; colour greenish yellow, but brownish red next the sun ; half
melting, sweet, a little musky, rather coarse, but a good dessert fruit in
its season; ripe by the end of August.

AUTUMN FRUIT.

AOTUMV BERGAMOT, Common Bergamot, York Bergamot. Fruit glo-
bular, depressed, the skin rough, yellowish green, and dull brown;
flesh pale, melting, juicy, sugary, and perfumed ; ripe in September
and October. This variety has been cultivated in England from the
time of Julius Caesar, and is still considered a first-rate pear in its
season.

BEIXE ET BOXNB, Schone und gute. Fruit very large, globular,
depressed, the stalls long; skin greenish yellow, but next the «un
yellow, with spots of russet; flesh white, sweet, exceeding rich and
agreeably perfumed. The tree is very productive, and the fruit ripens
in September. This variety has been cultivated under the erroneous,
names of Charles (TAutriche, Belle De Bruxelles and Bergamottc
Crussanne, which are distinct fruits.

BROWN BEURRE, Beurre Rouge, Beurre d'Or, Beurre Doie, Bcurre du
R-ri, Beurre £ Amboisc, Isambcrt, Red Biterre. Golden Beurrc, Poire
d Amboise. This was formerly considered the best of all pears in its
season. Fruit rather large, of greenish yellow, and dusky red colour,
covered with thin russet ; flesh melting, buttery, rich and excellent ; at
peifectionin October and November.

CHARLES D'ACTRICHE, Charles of Austria. A fine and beautiful fruit,
large, three and a half inches long, and three inches broad; colour
greenish yellow, with brown spots and partially russetted ; flesh white,
melting, juicy, and delicious. Ripe in October, aad good in November.

CAPIAUMOMT, Beurre de Capiaumont. This variety is much esteemed,
in the vicinity of Boston. Fruit of medium size, turbinate ; skin yellow,
tinged with fine red or cinnamon; flesh yellowish, melting,, verj richi
and high flavoured j in September and October.

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEARS.

DEVICES D'ARDENPONT, Dclices d1 Hardcnpont de Toulouse. Fruit
above medium size; oblong, pyramidal ; skin yellow at maturity, and
partially covered with a thin cinnamon coloured russet ; flesh' yellowish
white, nearly melting; juice pleasant, sweet and abundant; in October
and November.

Dix A native variety originating in the garden of Mr. Dix, in
Boston; fruit large, oblong; skin when ripe, yellow, with a blush of
red; flesh melting, juicy and rich ; in October and November.

DOYENNE SANTELETE. A new, fine, handsome Flemish pear ; fruit
above the middle size, pyramidally oblong ; skin pale green, speckled
with gray russet; flesh white, a little gritty, but tender; juice saccha-
rine, with a slight musky perfume. The tree is hardy, and ripens its
fruit early in October.

DCTCHESS OF ANGOULEM.E, Duchesse d'Angouleme. A pear of first-
rate excellence. Form roundish, oblong, tapering towards the stalk;
skin dull yellow, with broad russet patches; flesh rich, melting, very
juicy, and high flavoured, with a most agreeable perfume. Specimens
of this fruit have been shown in England, weighing twenty -two ounces.
At perfection in October and November.

CANS EL'S BERGAMOT, Broca's Bergamot, Ivcs's Bergamot, Bonne
Rouge. Fruit varying from middle size to large ; ovate, flattened ;
colour dull green, slightly red next the sun ; flesh white, melting, sweet,
rich and high flavoured. A delicious pear, ripe in October and good
till Christmas.

GOLDEN BEURRK OF BILBO A. This variety was imported from Bilboa,
by Mr. Hooper, of Marblehead : the original name being unknown.
Fruit of medium size, oblong ; colour a bright golden yellow, with
patches of russet ; perfectly melting, and of fine flavour. A beautiful
pear tree, a great bearer, and worthy of cultivation, ripe in October. —

GORE'S HEATHCOT. A native variety, highly esteemed in Massachu-
setts. Fruit of medium size ; form long ; skin of a uniformly light
yellow ; flesh melting, juicy, and high flavoured. The growth of the
tree is handsome and vigorous, producing abundant crops in Septem-
ber and October.

GREEX SYLTANGE, Sylvange Vert, Bcrgamotie Sylvange. A most
superior pear, of medium size, skin rough, and green, speckled with
gray or black. The flesh is gree,nish near the skin, white in the centre,
soft, saccharine and juicy. Fruit in perfection from October to Christ-
mas. The tree is a great bearer, and specimens of the fruit have been
known to weigh thirteen ounces.

HACON'S INCOMPARABLE, Norfolk Seedling. Fruit middle sized, of
r/ale yellow colour, mixed with green, partially covered with orange
russet; flesh yellowish white, slightly gritty, but very tender, juicy ;
sweet and rich ; and possessing a high musky and perfumed flavour.
The tree is a great bearer, and the fruit excellent, in November and
December. A silver medal was given to the, originator of this fruit, as
a prize, in England, 1830,

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS.* 333

HARVARD. L'Epergne. This variety is highly prized in the Boston
markets; fruit above medium size; oblong, swollen at the crown; skin
russ«tty yellow, tinged with red; flesh white, juicy and melting; in
September and Octobe-.

MARIE LOUISE, Fruit oblong, tapering towards both ends ; size
varying from medium to large: skin nearly smooth, yellowish green,
and cinnamon coloured russet ; flesh white, melting, juicy and rich. It
ripens in October and November, and is an excellent fruit in its season.

MOOR FOWL EGG. Fruit rather small, globular, ovate, swollen in the
middle; skin orange brown next the sun, with spots of russet; flesh
yellowish white, a little gritty, but tender and mellow, juice saccharine,
a little perfumed. This is a hardy Scotch variety, ripe in September
and good in October

NAPOLEOX, Medaille, Sartcageon Liart. Fruit large, form of the
Colmar ; skin smooth ; colour bright green, but at maturity, pale green ;
flesh very melting, with an unusual abundance of rich agreeable juice.
At perfection in October and November.

PRINCKSSE OF ORANGE, Princess d' Orange. The fruit is roundish ;
the skin bright reddish orange russet; flesh yellowish white, sugary and
rich, in some seasons perfectly melting, but occasionally a little gritty.
A beautiful pear, and of good quality ; in October.

SKCKL?, New-York Red Cheek, Red Ch°ek Seckle, Sycle. An excellent
native fruit, in size rather small ; colour varying from yellowish fc»
brownish russet, but brijht red next the sun, flesh meltinf, spicy, and
of a most extraordinary rich flavour. This fruit grows in clusters, in
great abundance, and is at perfection in September and October.

SWAS'S EGG. Fruit small, of a oval, turbinate figure, colour yellow-
ish green, and dull russetty brown ; flesh tender and melting, with a
rich, saccharine, musky flavour. An excellent fruit, ripe in October.
The tree is remarkably tall, upright vigorous and productive.

URBANISTE The fruit is of medium size, pyramidally ovate ; skin
pale green, inclining to yellow, with green streaks ; flesh white, but
reddish yellow next the core ; it is quite melting, juicy, and very sweet,
with a little perfume. It ripens from the middle of September to No-
vember.

WILKI.VSON. A native pear from Cumberland, R. I. The tree
bears young, and is very fruitful; size above medium; form oblong;
skin yellow, with a brownish black ; flesh white, juicy and melting ; at
perfection in October and November.

WINTER FRUIT.

BEURRE D'AREMBERS, Beurre d'Aremberl, Due d^Aremberg, Poire
d'Aremberg, Beurre Dcschumps, Beurre Ophelins of Dcschamps The
English and French writers speak of this pear as one of the best in cul-
tivation. The tree is a great bearer, comes early into cultivation, and
the fruit will keep till March. Fruit large, turbinate, ; skin of a delicate

334 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PEARS.

pale green dotted with russet, which becomes of a deeper yellow at
maturity; flesh whitish, fine, very juicy, perfectly melting, and very
extraordinary rich, sweet, high flavoured and excellent.

BEURRE DIEL, Dicls Butterbirne, Dorothee Royale, Beurre de Yelle,
Beurre Royale, Poire de Melon. This ranks amongst the best of pears.
The tree is of vigorous growth ; fruit when in perfectien, four inches
long, and three inches broad; the skin at maturity is bright orange,
with reddish russet; flesh clear white, tender, melting, and juicy, and
of a delicious aromatic flavour; from November to January.

BKURRE RANGE, Beurre Epine, Hardenpont de Printemps. This is
said to be a first-rate pear. The tree is vigorous and a good bearer ;
fruit middle sized, oblong ; skin deep green, with russetty specks ; flesh
green, melting, having a delicious rich flavour, with very little acid. It
shrivels in ripening, but will keep till April.

BKZY VAET, Bezy de Saint Vaast. Fruit somewhat the shape of a
Swan's Egg, but larger; skin dull green, covered with russetty spots;
flesh yellowish ; perfectly melting, sweet and agreeably perfumed ; at
perfection in November and December.

CATILLAC. Fruit very lar^e rather turbinate ; pale yellow, stained
with red ; flesh firm and breaking ; its flavour astringent ; an excellent
baking pear ; from November to April.

CH'UMONTBL, Bezy de Chaumontflle, Poire de Chaumontelle, Beurre
d'Hiver. This noble old variety is a fruit varying in size, from large to
very large ; its colour at maturity yellow, tinged with brownish red next
the sun ; its form variable ; flesh melting, juicy, sweet, musky, excellent :
in season from November to February.

COLMAR, Poire Mann", Bergamotte Tardive, Incomparable. This
fruit is rather large ; skin smooth, of a green colour, changing to a
yellow at maturity ; form pyramidal ; flesh melting, juicy, saccharine,
and of excellent flavour. The fruit is in perfection from November to
February.

EASTER BEURRE, Bergamotte de la Pentecote, Beurre d'Hicer de
Bruxel'ts, Doyenne d'Hiver, de Biuxelles. Bezi Chaumontelle Trcs Gros.
Of all the late keeping pears, this is considered the best (for England.)
Fruit large, roundish, oblong; colour green, but yellow at maturity,
with specks of russet brown ; fle^h yellowish white, perfectly buttery
and melting, also extremely high flavoured ; it is eatable in November,
and will keep till May: it is a most profuse bearer, on a quince stock.

ECH .SSKRY. Bezyde Chassery, BezydeLandry, Poire dCEuf, Ambrette,
Tilton of New Jersey. Fruit middle size, of a roundish turbinate
figure, something like a Citron, or the Ambrette ; skin smooth, greenish
yellow, with gray specks; flesh melting, juicy and delicious: from
December to March.

GLOUT MoRCEnU, Gloux Morceaux. A very large Belgic variety, of
great excellence ; fruit of ovalish form, pale green colour, inclining to
yellow, with russetty specks and blotches ; flesh whitish, firm, very juicy
and excellent ; in perfection from November to March.

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. - 335

HOLLAND BSRGAMOT, Bergamotte de Holland, D'Alencon, dmoselle,
Lord Cheney's. Fruit very large, globular, but broadest at the crown,
flattened ; of greenish yellow colour, marbled with russet ; flesh half
breaking, juicy, and high flavoured. It keeps till May, and succeeds
on the quince.

LEWIS. This variety originated on the farm of Mr. I. Lewis, of
Roxbury, Mass. The size is medium ; form somewhat globular ; skin
when ripe, a greenish yellow; the flesh is white, very melting, juicy
and excellent, from November to March. The tree grows quick, and
bears abundance of fruit.

LOUISE BONNE, Good Louise Avanchie. A large pear, somewhat
oblong, resembling the St . Germain ; skin yellowish green ; f. esh ex-
tremely tender, and full of an excellent saccharine, well flavoured juice.
A first-rate fruit, from October to Christmas.

NEWTOWN VERGALEAU. A large pear, of a yellow colour, with a
very short stalk ; the tree grows very crooked and of an irregular form,
bending by the weight of its fruit, \\hich is excellent tto preserve,
or for bakinj. Its productiveness renders it desirable in nn orchard.

PASSE COLMAR, Fohdante de Panisel, Passe Colmar Gris dit Precel,
Poire Precel, Passe Colmar Epineux, Beurre Colmar Gris dit Precel,
Beurre d'Argenson, Chapman^. A most valuable pear, of medium
size, conical, flattened next the eye ; skin at maturity yellowish, sprink-
led with russet, a tinge of red next the sun ; flesh yellowish, melting,
juicy, rich and excellent. The tree is a good bearer, and the fruit is in
perfection from November to February.

POUND PEAR, Black Pear of Worcester, Parkinson's Warden^ Grande,
Monarque, Livre, Groote Mogul, Gros Rattau Gris, Lore Pear. Fruit
very large, of a roundish turbinate figure ; skin rough, covered with
dull russet ; flesh hard and coarse, but excellent when baked or stewed
in Winter. Grafted on a pear stock. The tree bears so abundantly,
as to bend like a weeping willow.

SAINT GERMAIX, Inconnue de la Fare. This celebrated ancient fruit
is large, of a green colour, covered with russet spots ; at maturity a
yellowish cast; its flesh very melting, juicy, saccharine, slightly acid,
and delicious ; it ripens in November aud may be kept till March.

TILLINGTOX. A fine English variety, highly esteemed in Massachu-
setts ; in size medium, form turbinate : colour dull green and dull red,
rugsetted ; flesh white : particularly sweet and rich, though not very
juicy : good from November to February.

WINTXR NELIS, Nelis d Hivcr, La Bonne Malinoise. All accounts
agree that this is a most excellent Winter pear : its size is above medium,
somewhat oval : its skin green and russetty, full of gray dots : flesh
yellowish white, melting, high flavoured, with a musky perfume. At
perfection in December and January. A

PERRY PEARS.
BAHLAND. This variety took its name from the original tree, growing

336 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS,

in afield called Bare Lands, in Herefordshire, England. The fruit ia
smallish, of ovate form: skin dull green, russetted with gray. It M
deemed excellent for perry. Specific gravity of its juice 1070.

HOLMORK. Fruit small, globular: skin of a dingy yellowish greeni
tinged with red. Excellent perry is made of this variety in Hereford-
shire, England. Specific gravity of its juice 1066.

HUFFCAP. There are several varieties of pears bear this name, but
the best perry is made of the true Herefordshire Huffcap. The fruit
is middle sized, of pale green colour, marked with gray russet. Spe-
cific gravity of its juice 1070.

MONARCH. A new pear, considered by Mr. Knight as without a rival.
The tree is of rapid growth, and an abundant bearer: fruit large, of an
extraordinary musky flavour, and deemed excellent for perry: good
also for the table : from October to December and January.

OLDFIELD. Fruit below the medium size, of pale green colour, with
russetty spots. An excellent perry fruit. Specific gravity of itsjuice
1067. From this variety is made the celebrated Ledbury Perry.

LONGLAND. Fruit very handsome, much like the swan's egg in shape :
skin bright gold colour, tinged and mottled with fc russetty lively orange:
specific gravity of its juice 1063. The tree is handsome and upright,
and much cultivated in Herefordshire for perry.

TEINTON SQUASH. Fruit middle sized, of angular shape : skin a
muddy russetty green, marbled with dull -orange, interspersed with
ash-coloured specks. It originated in Teinton, Gloucestershire, and the
perry made from this fruit is of the very highest quality, something
approaching in colour and briskness to champaigne, for which fine
samples of it have sometimes been sold.

PLUM.

PRUNIER. Prunus.

THE Plum tree rises fifteen feet in height, branching into
a moderately spreading head; the leaves are ovate, serrated,
and on short petioles ; petals white. The natural colour of
the fruit is generally considered to be black ; but the varie-
ties in cultivation are of yellow, red, blue, and green colours,
and of different forms and flavours. There are several
good sorts grow wild in the hedges of Britain, and also in
America, but its original country is supposed to be Asia ;
and according to Pliny, it was taken from Syria into
Greece, and from thence into Italy* There are many

PLUM, 337

varieties cultivated in France ; and in the London Horti
cultural Garden there are two hundred and ninety-eight
sorts kept under name. The green Gage is considered the
best dessert Plum, and the Wine-sour for sweetmeats ; but
the Damson is the best baking Plum.

The Plum is said to succeed best in a lofty exposure, and
may yield well in the mountainous parts of the United
States ; it yields well near Albany, but the fruit is by no
means plentiful in the vicinity of the City of New- York.
Like the Nectarine, it is subject to the attacks of the Curcu.
4i», and other insects.

It has been observed that Plum trees growing in frequented
lanes or barn yards, are more generally fruitful than those
cultivated in private gardens, or secluded situations ; this
circumstance is by some attributed to the jarring of the
trees, by cattle and swine rubbing against them : thus
causing the defective fruit to fall on the ground. Geese
kept in orchards or fruit gardens, often prove beneficial ; as
they, by devouring the defective fruit and other corruptible
matter, prevent the possibility of insects getting into the
ground, so as to perpetuate their existence, or multiply their
species.

Cobbett attributes the scarcity of Plums in New- York
to neglect. In his American Gardener, paragraph 320, he
asks, " how is it that we see so few Plums in America, when
the markets are supplied with cart-loads in such a chilly,
shady, and blig&ty country as England V1

*******

I would answer this query by informing the reader, that
the inhabitants of our parent country, with a view to derive
the full benefit of the Sun's rays for the cultivation of Plums,
Peaches, Nectarines, and suck other fruits as require extra
heat, train their trees against walls, fences, or trellis-work ;
and from their having these means of support, gardeners
have no inducement to plant them deeper than is necessary ;
whereas, from the circumstance of the American climate
being sufficiently warm to ripen those fruits on standard
trees, they are generally so cultivated. Many persons, to

29

338 DESCRIPTIVE LIST Of PLUMS.

save the trouble of staking, or otherwise supporting their
trees, plant them too deep, and thus defeat the operations of
Nature. That this is a prevalent error, has been shown,
page 311 and 319 to 322, to which the reader is referred
for a more concise view of the subject.

New varieties of the Plum are produced from seed; and
the old kinds are generally propagated by budding on
stocks of free-growing Plums, in preference to grafting
because Plum trees are very apt to gum wherever large
wounds are made in them. All the sorts produce their fruit
on small natural spurs rising at the ends and along the sides
of the bearing shoots of one, two, or three years' growth-
In most sorts, new fruit branches are two years old before
the spurs bear. The same branches and spurs continue
fruitful, in proportion to the time which they take to come
into bearing.

After the formation of the head is begun, it takes from
two to six years before the different sorts come into bearing.
Standards must be allowed to expand in free growth,
occasionally pruning long ramblers and irregular cross
branches. In annual pruning, thin crowded parts , cut
away worn out bearers, and all decayed and cankery wood.
The Plum may be cultivated in small gardens, trained as
espaliers, or to a close fence, like the Apricot, &c.

The tree is of further use than for its fruit as a dessert,
&c. the bark dyes yellow ; the wood is used by turners ;
and the dried fruit, or prune, is formed into electuaries and
gentle purgatives. Prunes were originally brought from
Damascus, whence their name.

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS,

APRICOT PLUM, Prune Alricote, Abricotec dc Tours. The fruit is
large, its form globular, depressed, divided by a deep sature ; whitish
yellow, but faint red next the sfcm, and covered with bloom; its flesh is
firm, juicy, sweet, musky and excellent ; it ripens in August and Sep-
tember.

BINGHAM. A delicious clingstone plum, of large size and oval form ;,
skin bright yellow, spotted and blotched with red ; flesh yellow, rich-
and delicious ; ripening in September,

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PLUMS. • 339

BLEECKER'S GAGE. This plum is stated to have been raised by the
Rev. Mr. Bleecker, of Albany, from the stoue of a German Prune ; it
is a large globular fruit, of excellent quality; skin dark yellow, with red
spots and blotches ; the flesh is rich, saccharine, ami juicy ; in Sep-
tember.

CHICKASAW PLUM. A native species from " Virginia to Carolinai"
Fruit round ; some varieties are red, and some yellow, about the size
of cherries. The growth of the tree is different from any other kind of
plum, and at a little distance looks somewhat like a Peach tree. It is
very ornamental ; and Mr. Floy says it would make a fine stock to bud
Peaches, Nectarines, or Almonds on, in the Southern States.

COE'S GOLDEN DROP, COG'S Imperial, Bury Seedling, New Golden
Drop, Fair's Golden Drop. Raised by Mr. Coe, of Bury, Norfolk,
England. The tree is vigorous, fruit oval, of large size ; skin greenish
yellow, spotted with violet and crimson; flesh gold colour, rich and
excellent; the fruit ripens at the end of September, and will keep
several weeks. A first-rate fruit, and worthy of general cultivation.

COOPER'S LARGE RED, Ceoper's Large American, La Delicieuse. This
plum is of extraordinary size, measuring within an eighth of two inches
in each direction ; the skin is of a fine dark purple colour ; the flesh is
jellowish green, rich, juicy, and of pleasant flavour; the fruit makes
excellent preserves, if gathered in August ; its great defect is an inclina-
tion to rot.

DIAMOND PLUM. Some consider this as the largest plum known ; its
colour is a dark purple ; in form it resembles the Magnum Bonum, but
its flavour is considered rather superior ;. it ripens in September; The
tree, which grows vigorously, originated with Mr. Hooker, Kent,
England.

DOWNTON IMPERATRICE. A superior late plum, of medium size,
shaped similar to the blue imperatrice ; skin dark yellow, and very thin ;
the flesh yellow, soft, juicy, with a high flavoured acidity ; at perfection
in October and November.

DUANE'S PURPLE. A very superior plum, of an extraordinary size
the form round ; the skin a dark purple ; flesh sweet and good; ripen
ing in September ; named as above from being imported by Mr. Duane
of New- York. Its original name lost.

FLUSHING GAGE, Superior Gage. A fine plum, of oval shape and
yellow colour, with a whitish bloom ; flesh yellow, melting, rich, and
separating freely from the stone ; ripe towards the end of August.

GERMAN PRUNE, Qmtsche, Quetzen. The fruit of the Quetsche plum
is grown for the purpose of drying, and is considered the best for use
as prunes ; fruit below the middle size ; of an oval figure ; skin red and
purple ; flesh yellow ; juice sweet, with a slight acid ; ripe early in
September.

GOLIATH, Goliah, St. Cloud. This fruit is very large, sometimes
^f ighing four ounces ; the skin is a deep reddish purple*; the flesh pale

340 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS.

yellow, firm, and well flavoured, but not rich ; the tree is a great bearer^
and the fruit much used for cooking ; ripe in September.

GREEN GAGE, Great Queen Claude, J9aupM,net Grosse Reine Claude,
Abricot Y&rt, Verte Bonne, Gros Damns Vert. A middle sized round
fruit, of a yellowish green colour, and purplish russetty red next the
sun; the flesh is of a greenish hue, melting, with abundance of very
sweet and highly perfumed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at
maturity towards the end of August.

J^ORSE PLUM, Large Sweet Damson. Fruit of medium size, oval,
with a deep sature in the middle ; skin dark red, inclining to purple
when ripe ; flesh greenish yellow ; juice acid, but agreeable. Quan-
tities of these plums are sold in the New-York markets in September
and October, for sweetmeats. The trees are generally raised from
suckers, and Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarines, will bud and thrive
well on such stocks.

HULING'S SUPERB, Keysets Plum. This plum is of monstrous size,
and has been known to weigh nearly four ounces ; it is of roundish
form, and of a greenish yellow colour; the flesh is sweet and excellent.
It was raised from seed by Mr. Keyser, of Pennsylvania, and brought
into notice by Dr. Wm. Hulings, of that state.

IMPERATRTCE, Jmperatrice Violette, Blue Imperatrice. One of the
best of late plums ; fruit medium size, oval ; skin rich, deep purple,
covered with bloom ; flesh yellowish green, a little firm, very sweet,
rich and juicy ; the fruit hangs long on the tree, and is at maturity from,
October to December.

IMPERIAL DIADEM. A large fruit, admirably adapted for culinary
purposes ; shape oval ; colour pale red, but dark when mature ; flesh
yellow, and separates from the stone, juice plentiful when perfectly
ripe, which is early in September; it is of good flavour, and highly
perfumed.

ITALIAN DAMASK, Damas dfltalie. This fruit is of medium size,
nearly round, a little flattened at the base ; its colour blue or violet, and
covered with a purple bloom ; its flesh is yellow, rich and juicy, and the
tree, which matures its fruit in August, is very productive.

KIRKE'S PLUM. This variety is said to be as hardy and prolific as the
Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as good as the Green Gage.
Fruit large, roundish ; skin covered with a close, firm, azure bloom,
through which appears a few golden speeks ; flesh greenish yellow,
firm, juicy and rich ; in perfection the early part of September.

LA ROYALE, Royale. A large and excellent plum, of a homely dull
red colour, but concealed by a thick violet or azure bloom ; flesh fine,
yellowish green, firm, juicy, high flavoured and delicious ; a superior
plum; at maturity early in September.

LATE PURPLE DAMSON, Purple Winter Damson, Blue Damascene, Blue
Damson. This variety is in great esteem for preserves, and generally
commands a high price. It is of a dark purple colour, covered with

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PLUMS. 341

fetoom ; the flesh has rather too much acidity for a table fruit, but thii
tartness gives it an agreeable flavour when cooked.

LUCOMBE'S NONSUCH. This plum is large, compressed at the summit
and base, its breadth is two inches ; its colour at maturity, as well as its
form, resemble the Green Gage, but more streaked with yellew ; flesh
firm, rich and juicy ; at maturity in August ; tree a good bearer.

MIMM'S, Mimm's Plum. The fruit is very large, a little oblong;
colour bright purple, covered with thick bloom ; its flesh, which separ-
ates from the stone, is yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very
agreeably flavoured : ripe in September.

MOROCCO, Early Black Damask, Black Damascus, Black Morocco)
Early Damask, Early Morocco. This is considered as one of the best of
early plums. The tree is very hardy and productive; fruit middle
sized, roundish ; skin deep blackish purple, covered with a light blue
bloom ; flesh greenish yellow, juicy, rich, and high flavoured : ripe
early in August.

NECTARINE PLUM, Caledonian, HowelVs Large, Prune Peche. One of
the most beautiful plums known ; large, nearly round ; the skin at
maturity varies from red to crimson, covered with azure bloom ; flesh
yellowish, coarse grained, astringent; juice abundant, and of mild,
pleasant flavour ; at maturity in July and early in August.

NEW- YORK PURPLE, Brevoort's Purple Bolmar, BrevoorCs Purple
Washington. An excellent fruit, raised from a seed of Bolmar's Wash-
ington Plum, that had been impregnated with the pollen of the Blue
Gage. The fruit is very large ; skin brown red, covered with purple
bloom ; flesh yellow, of a rich and brisk flavour, and adheres to the
stone : ripe about the middle of August.

ORLEANS PLUM, Red Damask, Damas Reuge. A well known and
productive plum ; of medium size, and somewhat e val form ; the skin
is dark red, approaching to purple, with a thin, blue Woom; flesh
yellow, firm and good, separating freely from the stone : ripe in August*

PRECOSE DE TOURS, Early Tours. The tree is vigorous und fertile ;
fruit small, oval, dark purple, covered with fine bloom : flesh greenish
yellow, tender juicy, and of very agreeable flavour ; one of the best
early varieties, and very productive : ripe at the end of July.

PRINCE'S LMPERIAL GAGE, Flushing Gage, Superior Gage. This tree
was originated at the Flushing nursery, from a seed of the Green Gage.
The fruit is one of the largest of its class ; the skin at maturity is yellow,
with a whitish bloom ; the flesh is rich, luscious and of excellent flavour,
and makes fine preserves, if gathered towards the end of August : at
maturity in September,

PRUNE SUISSE, Semiana, Prune d*Alessa, Monsieur Tardif Semiana,
Fruit very handsome, round, flattened ; colour varying from bright
amber to deep red, and covered with azure bloom ; flesh yellow, crack-
ling and melting ; juice very abundant and delicious ; an excellent fruit,
ripening in September ^and October, and much cultirited in Massa-
chusetts.

29*

342 DJWCRIPTIVE LIST OP PLUMS,

•

PURPLR GAGE, Heine Claude Violette, Die Violette, Konigtn Clwdie.
This fruit is of medium size, almost round, and may be considered as
one of the finest varieties ; its skin is of violet purple colour, with pale
yellow dots, and covered with alight blue bloom ; flesh greenish amber,
rich, saccharine and high flavoured : at maturity in August, and good
until October.

RED DIAPER, Diapree Rouge, Reche Corbon. One of the most beau-
tiful plums known; form oval, above medium size ; colour bright red,
with a partial degree of bloom, and speckled with dots of deeper red ;
flesh greenish yellow, soft and sweet, separates from the stone; the
fruit makes excellent prune*, if gathered early in September, and like
the Imperatrice, will hang some time on the tree.

RED MAGNUM BONUM, Imperial, Imperial Violette, of the French. A
largo, oval plum, of deep red colour, covered with blue bloom ; the
flesh which parts from the stone, is harsh and acid ; consequently good
for cooking, preserves, &c. : in September and October.

RED PERDRIGON, Perdrigon Rouge. An excellent plum, of the first
class, of medium size, oval shape, and fine red colour, with gold
coloured dots and a fine bloom ; flesh bright yellow, transparent, and
separates from the stone ; juic§ sweet and delicious ; ripe early in Sep-
tember. It makes excellent prunes.

RED QUEEN MOTHER. This plum is of medium size, its colour
bright red and yellow, somewhat spotted, and covered with pale bloom;
its flesh is yellow, sweet and excellent, ripening early in September,
A very productive variety.

ROYAL DE TOURS, The tree is of extraordinary vigorous growth ;
its principal stem rises vertically; the fruit is globular, of medium size ;
red violet colour, and covered with azure bloom; flesh yellow, fine,
good; juice abundant and sweet: ripens early in August.

SAINT CATHARINE. A medium sized, oblong fruit ; skin bright gold
colour, spotted with red at maturity, and covered with bloom ; flesh
yellow, tender, sweet, and fine flavour ; ripens early in September, and
will hang some time on. the tree. A good market plum, for which
purpose it is much cultivated.

SURPASSE MONSIEUR. A large fruit, of oval form, and of a dark red
purplish colour, raised by a Mr. Noisette : it is said to be more beautiful
and perfumed than the Monsieur, and the tree yields suckers which
produce fruit in all their beauty and excellence : in September.

VIBGINALE. This fruit ranks among the best of plums ; its shape is
round, colour yellowish, touched with violet or rose, and covered with
dense bloom; flesh melting, juice abundant, and very agreeable; it
sdheres to the stone : ripe in September.

WASHINGTON, New Washington, Bolmar's Washington, Franklin. A
very large, globular plum, inclining to oval ; colour greenish yellow,
with crimson specks, covered with a rich bloom. This plum has some-
times weighed over four ounces; its flesh is yellow, firm, sweet and
delicious ; in August. This variety originated in New- York, from.

<*UINCE.

suckers of ail old root; the tree of which had been some time previously
destroyed by lightning.

WHITE MAGNUM BONUM, Imperiale Blanche, Egg Plum, White Mogul*
White Holland, This fruit is of extraordinary size, oval, yellow, cov-
ered with pale bloom: the flashiyellow, firm, acid and austere: excel-
lent for cooking and preserves: in September.

WHITE PERDRIGOX, Perdrigon Blanc. A middle sized, oblong fruit,
of a pale yellow, with red spots, and covered with white bloom ; flesh
yellow, rich, saccharine and juicy: it ripens in August and September.

WiL3ioT's NEW EARLY ORLEANS, WdmoCs Orleans. This plum is
above medium size, of round form; its sature deep; of a dark purplish
hue, covered with a fine bloom : the flesh is greenish yellow, of excellent
flavour, sweet, combined with a pleasant acid. It is a handsome plum,
ripening early in August .

f WJNKSOUR, Rotherham, of the old gardens. This plum is excellent to
preserve for sweetmeats : it is of medium size, oblong form, and of
dark purple colour : the flesh is yellow, juicy, and of a pleasant acid
flavour: the fruit is fit for use early in September: the tree is a great
bearer, and will grow on any soil, 'but flourishes' most on limestone or
gravel.

QUINCE.

COIGNASSIER. Cydonia.

THE Quince is of low growth, much branched, and
generally crooked and distorted. The leaves are roundish,
or ovate, entire above dusky green, underneath whitish, on
short petioles. The flowers are large, white, or pale red,
and appear in May and June ; the fruit, a pome, varying
in shape in the different varieties, globular, oblong, or
ovate ; it has a peculiar and rather disagreeable smell, and
austere taste. The fruit takes its name from being a
native of the ancient town of Cydon, in the Island of Crete ;
some suppose it to be a corruption of Malus cotonea,
by which the Latins designated the fruit. It is used as a
marmalade for flavouring apple pies, and making an excel-
lent sweetmeat ; and it has the advantage over many other
fruits for keeping, if properly managed.

Of the several sorts, the following are in greatest esteem :
I. The oblong, or Pear Quince, with ovate leaves, and an.

oblong fruit lengthened at the base. 9. The Apple Quincey
with ovate leaves, and a rounder fruit. 3. The Portugal
Quince, the fruit of which is more juicy and less harsh than
the preceding, and therefore the most valuable. It is rather
a shy bearer, but is highly esteemed, as the pulp has the
property of assuming a^fine purple tint in the course of being
prepared as a marmalade. 4. The mild or eatable Quince,
being less austere and astringent than the others.

The Quince produces the finest fruit when planted in a
soft moist soil, and rather shady, or at least sheltered
situation. It is generally propagated by layers, and also by
cuttings, and approved sorts may be perpetuated by graft-
ing. In propagating for stocks, nothing more is necessary
than removing the lower shoots from the layer, so as to
preserve a clear stem as high as the graft ; bift for fruit-
bearing trees, it is necessary to train the stem to a rod, till
it has attained four or five feet in height, and can support
itself upright.

When planted in an orchard, the trees may be placed
ten or twelve feet apart. The time of planting, the mode
of bearing, and all the other particulars of culture, are the
same as for the Apple and Pear. The chief pruning they
require, is to keep them free from suckers, and cut out
decayed wood.

RASPBERRY.

FRAMBOISIER. Rubus, etc.

THERE are several species of the Rubus found wild in
various parts of Asia, Europe, and America, some of which
have upright stems, others prostrate ; the American Stone
Bramble, and also the common Blackberry, Dewberry,
Cloudberry, &c. are of this family. The Rubus idacus, or
common Raspberry, grows spontaneously in the province of
New Brunswick, and in various parts of the United States,
but most of the cultivated varieties are supposed to have
originated in England. Loudon describes the true Rasp-

RASPBERRY. 345

berry as having stems which are suflructicose, upright,
rising to the height of several feet, and are biennial in du-
ration ; but the root is perennial, producing suckers which
ripen and drop their leaves one year, and resume their
foliage, produce blossom shoots, flower, and fruit, and die
the next. The leaves are quinate-pinnate ; the flowers come
in panicles from the extremity of the present year's shoots ;
they are white, appear in May and June, and the fruit ripens
about a fortnight afterwards."

The fruit is grateful to most palates, as Nature presents
it, but sugar improves the flavour ; accordingly, it is much
esteemed when made into sweetmeats, and for jams, tarts,
and sauces. It is fragrant, sub-acid, and cooling; allays
heat and thirst. It is much used in distilling. " Raspberry
syrup is next to the Strawberry, in dissolving the tartar of
the teeth ; and as, like that fruit, it does not undergo the
acetous fermentation in the stomach, it is recommended to
gouty and rheumatic patients."

Nicol enumerates twenty-three species and varieties of the
cultivated Raspberry, and twenty-one of the Rubusronce^ or
Bramble ; of the latter, is included the American red and
black Raspberry, and the Long Island and Virginian Rasp-
berry. The English varieties are, early Small white ; Large
white ; Large red ; most Large red Antwerp ; Large yellow
Antwerp ; Cane, or smooth-stalked ; Twice-bearing white ;
Twice-bearing red ; Smooth cane, twice-bearing ; Wood-
ward's Raspberry. Prince's catalogue contains twenty-
seven names, amongst which are, Brentford red ; Brentford
white ; Flesh-coloured ; Barnet red, fine ; Pennsylvania ;
Cretan red ; Prolific red ; Canada purple rose-flowering, <fcc.

The varieties can be perpetuated by young sucker shoots,
rising plenteously from the root in Spring and Summer;
when these have completed one season's growth, they are
proper to detach with roots for planting, either in the
Autumn of the same year, or the next Spring, in March or
early in April. These new plants will bear some fruit the
first year, and furnish a succession of strong bottom shoots
for full bearing the second season. New varieties are raised
from seed, and they come into bearing the second year.

346 STRAWBERRY.

Raspberry beds are in their prime about the third and
fourth year ; and, if well managed, continue in perfection
five or six years, after which they are apt to decline in
growth, and the fruit to become small, so that a successive
plantation should be provided in time. Select new plants
from vigorous stools in full perfection as to bearing. Be
careful to favour the twice bearers with a good mellow soil,
in a sheltered situation, in order that the second crop may
come to perfection.

When Raspberries are cultivated on a large scale, it is
best to plant them in beds by themselves, in rows from three
to five feet apart, according to the kinds. In small gardens,
they may be planted in detached stools, or in single rows, in
different parts of the garden, from the most sunny to the
most shady aspect, for early and late fruit of improved growth
and flavour. It is requisite to cut out the dead stems early
in the Spring, and to thin and regulate the successional
young shoots ; at the same time, the shoots retained should
be pruned at the top, below the weak bending part, and
some rotten dung worked in, around the roots of the plants.
Keep them clear of weeds during the Summer, by hoeing
between the rows ; at the same time eradicate all super-
fluous suckers, but be careful to retain enough for stock in,
succeeding years.

STRAWBERRY.

FRAISIER. Fragaria.

This is a genus of fruit-bearing herbaceous plants, of
which there are few in the vegetable kingdom that can
equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and excellence.
The fruit is supposed to receive its name from the ancient
practice of laying straw between the rows, which keeps the
ground moist and the fruit clean. They are natives of tem-
perate, or cold climates, as of Europe and America. The
fruit, though termed a berry, is, in correct botanical Ian*
guage, a fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds. It is univer-

STRAWBERRY. 347

sally grateful alone, or with sugar, cream, or wine, and has
the property, so valuable for acid stomachs, of not under-
going the acetous fermentation* Physicians concur in
placing Strawberries in their small catalogue of pleasant
remedies ; as having properties which render them, in most
conditions of the animal frame, positively salutary ; they
dissolve the tartareous incrustations of the teeth ; they pro-
mote perspiration. Persons afflicted with the gout, -have
found relief from using them very largely ; so have patients
in case of the stone ; and Hoffman states, that he has
known consumptive people cured by them. The bark of
the root is astringent."

In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and
rich loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most varieties ;
and from their large mass of foliage and flowers, they must,
till the fruit is set, have copious supplies of water. The
row culture is best calculated to produce fruit ; and fre-
quent renewal insures vigorous plants, as well as large fruit.
Some make beds of single rows, from twelve to eighteen
inches apart, according to the sorts ; others form a bed with
two rows eighteen inches asunder. If several beds be in-
tended, a space of two feet may be left between each bed as
a path ; and in the second or third season, the paths may
be manured and dug, to admit of the runners taking root ;
by this means, a renewal may be made so often, and the
old stools being taken away, leaves spaces between the beds
as before. Or, new plantations may be made every season ;
because after the roots are fairly established, they multiply
spontaneously, as well by suckers from the parent stem,
as by the numerous runners ; all of which, rooting and
forming a plant at every joint, require only removal to a
spot where there is room for them to flourish. If taken
off, and planted in rows in August and September, they
will produce fine fruit the following season, and will bear
in full perfection the sacond Summer ; some, however,
prefer Spring planting, which answers very well, if done in
damp weather.

A plantation of the Alpine yields fruit the same year
that it is made. The Wood and the Alpine come regularly

348 STRAWBERRY.

from seed, from which finer fruit may be produced than
from offsets. The other species are uniformly propagated
by offsets, except the intention be to try for new varieties.
The Alpine and Wood species may.be planted in situations
rather cool and'shady, in order that they may produce their
fruit late in the season, which is desirable. The Strawberry,
with a little trouble of choosing a succession of sorts, may
be forced so as to be had at the dessert every month in the
year ; though, during the Winter months, they have not
much flavour.

Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over their
beds in March, and set fire to it, in order to promote a
stocky growth of plants and early fruit ; others reccommend
mowing off the tops of such as are not required to fruit early,
while they are in blossom, with a view to obtain a crop of
Strawberries late in the season.

The London Horticultural Catalogue contains the names
of one hundred and twenty-one varieties of all the species ;
which are classed according to their nature, colour, &c.
Class 1. Scarlet Strawberries ; 2. Black Strawberries; 3.
Pine Strawberries; 4. Chili Strawberries; 6. Hauibois
Strawberries ; 6. Green Strawberries ; 7. Alpine and Wood
Strawberries. To select all the most esteemed from this,
or any other extensive catalogue, is a difficult task ; the
following description of species and varieties may serve to
direct the choice :

The Wood Strawberry, Fragaria vesea. with oval serrated leaves : the
fruit red, white, and green, which is round and small. A native of
Britain.

The Scarlet, Fragaria Virginiana, with leaves like the preceding : the
fruit roundish and scarlet-coloured. A native of Virginia. Varieties —
Methven Scarlet, Knight's Scarlet, Austrian Scarlet, Early Scarlet, Wil-
mot's late, Common late, Wilmot's Early Scarlet, &c.

The Roseberry, Fragaria Virg. var. An Aberdeen seedling, intro-
duced in 1810. The plants have few roundish leaves, larger fruit than
the scarlet, and are very prolific : continues bearing till August.

The Black var. Downton, Dark Scarlet Strawberry, originated by Mr,
Knight. The fruit is large, irregular, and cockscomb-like: plant hardy
and prolific.

The Carolina, Fragaria Carolinensis, colour dark red: a native for

STRAWBEBRY. 34Q

America. Theie are several choice varieties of this fruit as — Elton's
Seedling, Keen's Seedling, Mulberry, Wilmot's Black Imperial, Blood
Pine, North's Seedling, Knevet's Seeding, &c.

The Musky, or Hautbois, Fragaria elatier, with oval rough javelin-
edged leaves. A native of Britain. Varieties— Black Hautbois, Globe
Hautbois, Double or Twice Bearing, producing delicious fruit in Spring
and Autumn.

The Chili. Fragaria Chiliensis, with large, oval, thick, hairy leaves,
and large flowers : the fruit large and very firm : a native of South
America. Wilmot's Superb, or Large Cockscomb Scarlet, and Green-
well's New Giant, are highly esteemed varieties.

Keen's Imperial, or New Chili, Fragaria Chili, var. raised by Mr. Keen,
of Isleworth, a most excellent bearer, ripening early. The fruit is very
large : the flesh firm and solid, without any separable core: colour scarlet.

The Alpine, or Prolific, Fragaria collina, commonly lasts from June
till November, and in mild seasons, till near Christmas : the varieties of
this fruit are red and white. .Natives of the Alps of Europe.

The one leaved, Fragaria monophylla, the pulp of the fruit, pink-
coloured. A native of South America.

The Grove End Scarlet Strawberry, a seed-ing raised by Wm. Atkinson,
Esq. in IKS garden at Grove End, Marylebone, in the year 1820 ; an excel-
lent bearer, ripening its berries early and in succession.

All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly esti-
mated in Britain, where they are cultivated in great per-
fection. Berries have been known to weigh from one to two
ounces, which have been grown to the circumference of
eight inches and upwards. It may be gratifying to the
lovers of this excellent fruit, to be informed that some of the
best kinds are attainable here. Messrs. Prince & Sons, and
Mr. Floy, have some of the choicest kinds in their nurseries ;
and one of our patriotic fellow-citizens, the late Jesse Buel,
Esq., of Albany, informed us in the Albany Argus, of
J«ne 23, 1830, that he had grown the Downton, (a variety
of the Chili, crossed by Mr. Knight,) two years in succes-
sion, 42- inches in circumference. — He said, that '* he picked
a pailful that morning of the Methven Scarlet Strawberry,
which had an average circumference of three inches each.
Several measured four inches, and one four and a quarter
inches. Sixty-three, divested of the calyx, weighed a pound,
which is a trifle more than four to the ounce." Several of
the choicest kinds have been lately transplanted from the
London Society's Garden into the American Nurseries,

30

WALNUT.

NOYER. Juglans.

FROM the circumstance of our having an abundance of
the fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees grow-
ing spontaneously around us, it is presumed that the culture
of the Juglans regia, commonly called English Walnut, or
Madeira Nut, has been neglected by many of our citizens,
It is a native of Persia, and is cultivated in France, England,
and in other parts of Europe, both as a fruit and timber
tree. The fruit in England is much used in a green state
for pickling, and also as^in adulteration of soy sauce. In
France, an oil which supplies the place of that of Almonds,
is made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gratings
of old and hard nuts, first peeled, into their tarts and other
meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, and left there,
annoy worms or moles, or macerated in warm water, afford
a liquor which will destroy them. The unripe fruit is used
in medicine for the purpose of destroying worms in the
human body. Pliny says, '* the more Walnuts one^ eats,
with the more ease will he drive worms out of the stomach."

The timber is considered lighter, in proportion to its
strength and elasticity, than any other, and therefore com-
monly used in England for gun stocks. It is used in
cabinet work in most parts of Europe ; the young timber is
allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old to be
finest variegated for ornament. When propagated for
timber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is the object,
inarching from the branches of fruit-bearing trees, is prefer-
able. Budding is also practised by some ; the buds succeed
best when taken from the base of the annual shoots ;
ordinary sized buds from the upper part of such shoots
generally fail.

Walnut trees that have not been grafted or budded, may
be induced to produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is,
cutting out a streak of the bark around the body or main
branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much fruit
until fifteen or twenty years old ; it is produced on the

WALNUT. 351

extremities of the preceding year's shoots. The trees
should stand forty or fifty feet apart, and they may be
permitted to branch out in their natural order. They need
but little pruning, merely to regulate any casual disorderly
growth, to reduce over-extending branches, and to prune up
the low stragglers.

Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected or
abandoned1 by any, I annex a description of the different
kinds :

Juglans catharticus, is known under the name of Butter-
nut, Oilnut, and white Walnut; these nuts are used by the
Indians as a medicine.

Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large size ;
its fruit is known to be excellent.

Juglans olivceformis. Pecan, or Illinois nut, is delicious.
The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called thick shell
bark, Hickory, and Springfield, and Gloucester nut, are
large and well-tasted. The shell bark Hickory, shag
hark, or scaly hark Hickory, Juglans alba, is so called on
account of its bark, which is torn lengthwise in long loose
strips, as in J. sulcata. The Juglans tormentosa, the Mucker
nut, white heart Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of
the other kinds enumerated, are worth preserving; or culti-
rating where there is none, for its timber for mechanical
purposes ; and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, if
ttseful.for brooms, &c.

85%

@M THE

AS INFLUENCED BY

CHAM OF THE MOON,

LEST the reader should judge, from my introducing this
subject, that I am an advocate for Moon -planting, in any
other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the
weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would
here offer a few observations in reference to the practice
and prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter
of the Moon for planting such vegetables as yield their
produce above the surface, as Cabbage, &c. and the last
quarter or wane of the Moon for such as grow and yield
their produce chiefly in the earth, and below the surface, as
Potatoes, &c.

I would first observe, that if the Moon has any direct
influence over vegetable productions, it must operate in
many cases quite the reverse to what these theorists gene-
rally aim at ; for instance, if the earth and weather should
happen to be dry in the first week after planting certain
species of seed, such would fail to germinate for want of its
most essential aliment, moisture ; and in consequence of
such seeds laying dormant in the earth, until after another
change of the Moon, if that luminary influences the seed at
all, in such case it must be contrary to the objects of the
honest planter.

As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the
foundation of Moon-planting, in the sense I have described,
I shall at once submit to the reader's attention, the following
observations, and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated
Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be
taken to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not
operate in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons
with us, the wind is generally East, North-East or South-
East, and cold weather comes by a North- West wind. In
England, where these calculations were made, ij is in SOXZH:
Aspects different,.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 353

" From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little
farm which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since
I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the
sickle, or handle the spade, and as I found that much of our
success depended on a proper knowledge and management
of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight
years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science,
and one of the first that is studied ; and that every child in
the country makes untaught, some progress in it ; at least,
so it was with me. I had actually learned,, by silent obser-
vation, to form good conjectures concerning the coming
weather, and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who
were perfect, especially among those who had not been
obliged, like me, to watch earnestly; that what was so
necessary to the family support should not be spoiled by the
weather before it was housed.

Many a time, even in tender youth, have I watched the
heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of
the morning and evening Sun, the phases of the Moon, the
scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds,
the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt,
the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the
seamew — not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs.
From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa-
tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations
in reference to th'e coming days, and was seldom much mis-
taken in my reckoning.

About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the work
of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, professing
to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times of
change, full and quarters of the moon. I have carefully
consulted this table for years, and was amazed at its general
accuracy ; for though long as you have seen, engaged in the
study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could
be devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a
little alteration in the arrangements, illustrated it with fur-
ther observations, and have sent it to you that you may
insert it, as it has hitherto been confined generally to a few
almanacs."

30*

354

f\tr telling the Weather through all the Lunations of each year, for ever.

This table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many year*
actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration
of the attraction of the sun and moon, in their several positions respect-
ing the earth, and will by simple inspection, show the observer what
kind of weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into
any of its quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never
found to fail.

INTRODUCTION

MONTHLY CALENDAR.

THE object of this Calendar is to furnish in a condensed
form, monthly directions for the culture of some plants not
previously mentioned in this work ; and also to direct the
reader's attention to the regular management of such plants
as have been heretofore treated of. In pursuit of the
latter object, references will be made to former pages, so as
to exhibit, at one view, the business of the garden in each
month of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which
further directions may be found relative to the operations
adverted to.

In page 23 it has been shown, that the directions accomr
panying our catalogue may be applied to all the varied cli-
mates of the United States, by a minute observance of the
difference of temperature..

It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of
cultiration three months earlier in the remotest South, than
in the coldest part of our Northern territory ; the calendar
therefore for March, may be applied to the middle of
January in the warmest climatei, and to the middle of April
in the coldest; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be
taken in the Southern States after the three Spring months,
for the following reasons :

1. As warm weather South is of longer continuance,
than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables
denominated tender in page 19, may be made in the ogeiv
garden from March to August.

356 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of
many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower,
Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can
only be cultivated perfect in Spring and Autumn^ the latter
crops, therefore, should not be planted until August or Sep-
tember; see note to article Broccoli 41, also 57, 62 and 92.

3. Many of the half-hardy class, as also those desig-
nated Jicfrdy in our table, may be cultivated throughout the
Winter months, by forwarding such as are required for
early Spring use, after the Summer crops are taken off.
See table, explication, &c., page 19 to 22, also page 103.

In the Eastern, Western and Middle States, the annexed
calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying
directions to the beginning of the first Spring month, in the
warmest climates, and to the latter end, in the coldest
climates, bearing in mind that where Summer is short, the
main crops must follow the early, in quick succession, with
a riew to their maturity before Winter.

"PROGNOSTICS foretoken most truly some things,
Of Summers, and Autumn=, and Winters, and Springs ;
By them from the past we may all ascertain
The future, respecting the winds and the rain."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

IT is customary at this season of the year, with all prudent
men to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the
results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to
make improved arrangements for the future. The mere
gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may

[January. MONTHLY CALENDAR. * 357

occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book-
reader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 8,) and he
should frequently take a survey of his former practices and
those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every
thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults writers on
Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured
to do in preparing this work for the press ; not adopt
the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative
ideas, nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour
to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foun-
dation. In all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow
the example of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures,
or consult any authors on the subject, he should do as every
sensible man does at his daily meals, take that which suits
him best, and leave the residue for others. If this
work should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may
read the general remarks in this month, (January,) and
make a memorandum of such things as may be obtained at
a leisure time, in preference to driving it off till it is wanted-
I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to
the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at page
1 of the general remarks, which suggests, that if a man has
a garden to form, he will require fencing materials. If these
should be already at hand, every gardener should provide
manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, drilling
machines, and other tools ; poles or rods for the support of
such Beans, Peas, or other climbing plants which he may
intend to cultivate ; and if he intend to use hot-beds, or
forcing frames, he should make arrangements to get compost
and heating materials, in time for the work to be performed
in the next month. If he depends on this book for infor-
mation, he may read the general remarks from page 7 to
23, and also from pages 101 to 120, on Forcing Vegetables*

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

Having shown in page 217, that Heat, Air, and Water, are
the food of plants, and necessary to the preservation of
their health and life, if given in due proportion according

359 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [January:

to circumstances, I would, at this season of the year,
especially, salute the gardener with a "be ye temperate in
all things."

Temperance in the use of water, is of the utmost impor.
tance in the Winter season, for several reasons which may
be given. In the first place, water will attract frost, and,
therefore, should be used very sparingly in frosty weather ;
another consideration is, that in the absence of heat and
air, plants cannot absorb much moisture, and consequently
must become injured from excessive watering ; and it may
be observed further, that it is not prudent to keep plants in
an extremely vigorous state, until the season arrives when
the external air is soft and salubrious ; they can then have
a due proportion of heat,, air, and moisture at the same time-
Perhaps the next important point to be attended to at
this time is, to see that the greenhouse, or room, in which
plants are intended to be preserved, is calculated for the
purpose. The room should be light and airy, and yet so
secure as to prevent the intrusion of external cold air, or the
departure of warm air in the night season.

A Fahrenheit thermometer is indispensable in a green-
house, or room, where plants are kept, and the temperature
should be always up as nearly as possible to 40 degrees, in
the absence of the Sun. If the gardener retire to rest in this
variable climate, leaving the mercury much below 40, he
may expect to find his plants frozen in the morning.

A good brick flue is better calculated for heating a small
greenhouse, than any other method ; because after a suffi-
cient fire has been made to heat the bricks thoroughly, they
vfill retain the heat through a Winter night, whereas an
iron stove with its metal pipes will cool as the fire gets low,
and expose the plants to cold, towards morning, which is
the time they most need protection. The heat from iron is
moreover too dry and parching, while an evaporation or
salubrious steam may be raised from bricks, by sprinkling
the flue occasionally, which would operate on the plants
similar to healthful dew drops.

At this season of the year especially, sitting-rooms, or
parlours, are heated in the daytime to full 20 degree*

[February. MONTHLY CALENDAR. *

higher than what is necessary for the preservation of plants ;
consequently, as the heat decreases in the night season,
plants often get injured, unless a fire is kept up. Air must
be admitted to plants kept in this way, at all opportunities;
and more water will be necessary for such plants, than
those kept in a greenhouse would require. For the manage,
ment of bulbous roots, in pots or glasses, the reader is
referred to page 212.

"A cold sour Autumn, they sternly maintain,
A long severe Winter will bring in its train ;
If Summer and Autumn be both dry and warm,
Calm opens the Winter, — it closes in storm."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

Although stern Winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts
its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment
preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and
planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most impor-
tant business at this season, is to collect plenty of manure ;
next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants
for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames
are in good repair and ready for use ; he should also repair
his sashes, and make straw mats to cover them with. In
preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds, or
forcing pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of snow or
rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being
made into a bed.

Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is
well protected by a close fence or wall, and not in any way
connected with any building calculated to harbour rats,
mice, moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode
in warm dung, to the great injury and sometimes the
destruction of the beds. It is necessary that the founda-
tion for the beds be drily situated, and not liable to be inun-
dated with water from melted snow, &c. When all is pre-
pared as directed, page 101 to 106, begin to sow Cabbage*

360 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [February*

Egg-plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 101 ; force Asparagus,
105; Kidney Beans, 107 ; Cucumbers, 109 ; plant Peas, 120 ;
Potatoes, 121 ; sow Radish seed, 121. In cold beds well
protected, plant Broad Beans, 107; sow Cabbage seed, 45.

After the seeds are sown, the beds will require constant
attention; cover up well in cold nights, and give air at all
opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds,
as directed under'the different heads, from page 103 to 125.
If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed,
page 105, and if it should become necessary to let off steam
in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the apertures
sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all oppor-
tunities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other
plants as may be in frames, of last year's sowing.

FLOWfcR DEPARTMENT.

Having in the previous month discussed some important
points relative-to the general care of plants, I now proceed
to notice a few of those kinds that require attention at this
particular season :

Camellias, or Japan Roses. — There are numerous
varieties of this valuable class of, plants, exhibiting every
shade in succession, from desp crimson to the purest white ;
in some imperceptibly blended, in others strikingly con-
trasted. They are unrivalled objects of beauty from
October to May, being se^t in a foliage of fine glossy verdure.

Double Camellias are generally propagated on stocks of
the single, which are procured by planting cuttings of the
young shoots in light mould under bell glasses ; on these,
when grown to a sufficient size, are inarched the finer kinds
of double. Sometimes these latter are also struck by cut-
tings ; but as their progress by such method is generally
slow and uncertain, it is seldom resorted to. These valuable
plants are too often injured by amateurs, from misapplied
care bestowed upon them, so that their whole compensation
and enjoyment is reduced to the mere possession of a hand-
some green shrub. Destined from the extreme beauty and
unrivalled delicacy of their flowers to become the chief pride

February.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 361

and ornameRt of the greenhouse and drawing-room in the
Winter season, the Camellias should have a fair chance
given them to exhibit their fine bloom in perfection.

It should be observed, lhat Camellias are by no means
tender shrubs, but require to be kept in a medium even
temperature, and they generally succeed best in a green-
house, where the atmosphere is damp. As the buds begin
to swell, they will require more water than at any other
time, which may be applied from the rose of a watering pot,
or syringe, while in bud, but when in blossom it should be
applied to the earth. s

If Camellias be kept where there is a dry air, occasioned
from fire heat, they must have plenty of the natural air at
all opportunities, or the buds will become brown and fall
off; and if they are subjected to extreme cold at night,
Arhich is too frequently the case, when kept in rooms of an
uneven temperature, premature decay of the buds will
inevitably be the consequence.

To preserve Camellias in healthy condition, they should
be kept in fresh, moderately light soil, consisting of sandy
loam taken from under grass sods, and leaf mould well
mixed ; nothing being more injurious to them than over-
potting ; they should not be shifted into larger pots, until
the projection of the roots show evidently that they are iu
need of it. Few plants bear privation of sunshine in Sum-
mer better than these ; they should, however, be kept in an
open situation, where they can have a full share of light
and air.

Such bulbous roots as may be in progress of blooming,
will require attention this month ; turn them frequently to
the light, as recommended in page 212, and increase the
supplies of water as they advance towards perfection.

Attend to Campanula Pyramidalis, Hepeticas, Mimu-
lus, Senecif*, and herbaceous plants in general ; those
not in bud should be watered very sparingly. Shrubby
plants, especially those which bud and blossom in the Win-
ter, and early part of the Spring, as the several varieties of
Acacias, Azeleas, Calceolarias, Correas, Coronillas, Daph-
nes, Diosmas, Eupatoriums, Eutaxias, Fuchsias, Gnidias,

31

MONTHLY CALENDAR. [February.

Heaths, Laurustinuses, Lemon trees, Rhododendrons,
Orange trees, &c., will require water once or twice a week,
according to circumstances, and air should be given at all
opportunities, or the plants will not blossom in perfection.

For the benefit of such as may wish to raise early plants
from seed, or to force Dahlia or other roots, I subjoin the
following brief directions for making a small hot-bed r In a
border exposed to tl*e morning sun, let a pit be dug about
thirty inches deeps five feet wide, and six long ; this will
admit of two sashes, each three feet by five. A frame ©f
suitable dimensions wray be made of plank ; the back plank
may be two feet wide, and the end ones sloped so as to
make a fifteen inch plank do for the front. The frame
being made, set it over the pit, and then get a load of horse
dung, fresh from the livery stables, (not such as has lain
long, or may have been soddened with water,) spread the
dung evenly in the pit until full, then put into the frame
light rich mould, or compost, to the depth of ten or twelve
inches, and the seed may be sown as soon as it gets warm*
It may be necessary to observe, that in making hot-beds,
the quantity of top mould should be regulated according to
the substance of manure in the pit, and this may vary
according to the use the beds are intended for, or to other
circumstances. After the seeds are sown, the beds will
require constant attention ; cover up warm in cold nights,
and give air at all opportunities, to prevent the plants from
growing weak.

As we are subject to* North- West winds at this season,
which produce extreme freezing, it will be better to delay
the making of hot-beds to the first week in March, at which
time opportunities will frequently offer of giving plants a
tolerable share of salubrious air, which is indispensable to
their preservation.

-^

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

With a view to give all attention to culture as the season
advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit tre«s,
and hardy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting

MONTHLY CALKNDAg. 363

off all dtad and superfluous branches ; he may also clean
trees from moss and canker, and search for the nests of
insects, with a view to destroy them while in a torpid state,
to prevent their spreading, 246. If he has trellises, or any
implements of husbandry out of repair, be should embrace
(he most favourable opportunities of putting them in good
-condition, and of repairing his fences, &c.

The latter end of this month is a good time to prune
grape vines, 252.

Provide shreds or strips of woollen cloth about half an
inch wide, or list from broad cloth, which is still better, also
small sharp pointed lath nails to use in training fruit trees,
&c», next month,

If any removals are contemplated, or fresh trees, vines, or
shrubs required, they should be planted as soon as the ground
caa be brought into good condition, 241. 311. 319 and 367

'If the Sun appear dim, surrounded with haze,
And his disk ill defined, and faded his rays;: —
2f white at his setting — of powej* if shorn,
The signs are all certain, there'll soon be a stornj."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

This month affords considerable employment to an
industrious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground
and distributed in heaps, ready to spread, see page 17; and
the hot-beds and forcing frames will require constant atten-
tion. Cover up warm in cold nights, and give additional
air as t^e season progresses, to prevent the plants growing
weak, taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the
different kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are
to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding
vegetables, they should be attended to in time, as directed.
Begin the work of the Kitchen garden as soon as the earth can

364 MONTHLY CALENDAR

be brought into good condition, and tran splant hardy Lettuc*
plants, 62; dress Artichoke beds, 26; Asparagus, 30;
Rhubarb, 79 ; Sea-Kale, 83 ; and prepare to make new
plantations of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 31;
and 107; Rape, 39$ plant Cauliflower plants underhand
glasses, 43 and 103 ; sow Cabbage seed, 46 and 101 ; Car-
rot, 49; Celery, 51; plant Chives, 66; Cucumber, 109 j
sow Egg-plant seed, 57 ; plant Horse Radish 59 ; Leek, 61 ;
Lettuce, 62; plant Melon seed, 119; sow Onion, 67 ; Parsley,
69; Parsnip, 70 ; Pepper, 71 ; plant Peas, 72; Potatoes,
121 ; sow Radish seed, 77 and 121 ; plant Rocambole, 77 ;
Rhubarb, 78; Salsify, 80-; Scorzonera, 81 ; Sea Kale, 82;
Skirret, 84 ; sow Spinach seed, 86; Tomatoe, 88 and 123j
Turnip seed, 91 ; prepare to make Hop plantations, 126 ;
Herbs, 94 to 96. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with
the hardiest kinds; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c.
to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this
month every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul-
tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as
may have lain in ridges through the Winter, and by manur-
ing and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing,
and planting it early in next Month.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

As the Spring progresses, the external air will be soft
and salubrious ; at which time it should be freely admitted
to plants kept in rooms and greenhouses. In proportion, as
the plants get air, they should have water applied from the
rose of a watering pot.

Monthly Roses will, require attention this month. It
should be recollected, that it is from the young wood of these
plants that buds are to be expected ; their growth should,
therefore, be encouraged, by admitting sun and air a.t alj
opportunities, and water when necessary.

Primulas. — There are several species of plants under
this name, which exhibit their blossoms in March and April J
some of which are very beautiful, as the Polyanthus,
Knglish Spring Flowers, Auricula, &c. ; but I would BOW

March,.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 365

direct the reader's attention to the Chinese varieties, some
of which are pure white, and others of a lilac colour. They
are first raised from seed sown in the Spring, and will keep
two or three years.

Plants that are full grown, will commence blooming in
December, and continue to produce umbels of flowers for
five or six months, if well attended to ; they are generally
in their prime this month, at which time a little water should
be applied to the earth about twice a week.

Many species and varieties of seeds may be sown this
month in hot beds, prepared as directed under the head
February. 362.

Auricula, Polyanthus, and all other species of Primula
seed, should now be sown. Mignonette, Ten Week Stock,
and Dahlia seed, from choice varieties, may also be sown
in pots, and care should be taken when the plants are up,
that they be not injured by excess of moisture. 220.

There are some splendid varieties of the Schizamhus
which deserve attention at an early season. They are
rather difficult of cultivation in pots, being apt to suffer by
excess of heat or moisture; and often, when in full bloom,
die off suddenly by decays at the base of the stem. No
plants will, however, more amply repay all the care and
trouble that may be bestowed on them, than those of the
elegant genus Schizanthus. The best soil for them is loam,
and leaf mould, with a small portion of sand. They
should be repotted as often as the pots are filled with roots,
till they come into full flower.

AH the different varieties of tender annual, biennial, and
perennial flower seeds, designated thus § and thus t in our
catalogues, pages 136 and 147, may be sown this month in
hot-beds, or in pots kept in the greenhouse.

Hyacinths, Narcissus, and other bulbs in glasses, must
have the water shifted every week, and the glasses should
be thoroughly washed every two or three weeks, 213

Towards the end of the month, roots of Amaryllis for*
mosissima, Gladiolus psitacinna, Tiger flowers, Tuberoses,
and such other bulbs as may have been preserved dry
through the winter, may now be planted in pots and kept

31*

366 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [March.

in a greenhouse or light room, or else plunged in a hot bed.
— Those who have no such conveniences may, however,
delay the planting of sound bulbs, until the weather will
admit of their being planted in warm borders.

Dahlia roots should now be plunged in a hot-bed, to
forward them, with a view to their being separated, as soon
as the eyes are discernible, 196.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

If the weather be mild this month, considerable work
may be done in the fruit garden and orchard, before the
ground can be brought into suitable condition for ploughing^
digging, or planting.

Prune Grape Vines ; but withhold the knife, until you
have surveyed the plant, and selected a full supply of the
last Summer shoots at regular distances from each other,
for bearers the coming Summer ; cut out the superabundant,
wjth part of most of the last year's bearers, and naked
wood. Prune so that a young shoot terminate each branch,
and shorten the reserved shoots; the smallest to three or
four joints, and the strong ones to ten or twelve. Fasten
the vines to trellises as soon as pruned, with list, or shreds
of woollen cloth, arranging the general branches from ten
to twelve inches distance, more or less, according to the
size of the vines and space allotted for them to grow. — See
Observations on Training and Pruning, page 251; also,
article Grape Vine, 293 to 306.

Prune Apple trees, 2.65 ; Cherry, 277 ; Pear, 329 ; Plum
338 ; Quince, 344 ; also, Currant bushes, 264 ; Gooseberry,
292 ; cutting out all crowded branches, worn out bearers
and decayed wood.

Cut out and destroy all the old stems of Raspberry shrubs,
reserve three or four of the strongest young shoots on each
stool ; shorten them at the top, and take away all othersj
the strqngest of which may be transplanted to form a new
bed, 346

In transplanting trees care should be taken that the col-
J^ar, or that part from, which emanates the main roots, be not

April.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 367^

inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and
consequently impedes the natural circulation of the juices.
A medium sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than
it was in the nursery bed, and the largest should not exceed-
two or three inches. 241. 311. 319. 337.

Plant cuttings and suckers of Gooseberries and Currants ;
also, of such fruit trees as produce them, in order to raise
stocks to bud and graft upon ; fruit stones and kernels may
be also sown for the same purpose.

Young trees, shrubs, and vines may be obtained at public
nurseries, in different stages of growth, suited for general
planting ; and others sufficiently advanced for immediate
bearers ; these should be carefully taken up, and replanted;
For full information on this subject, the reader is referred
to the article " on the choice of fruit trees in the nursery,"
259.

'"The state of the icind augurs rain, as they say; —
When restless in changes, now this, now that way, ,
Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by,
The rain it betokens is probably nigh."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

This is certainly the most important month in the year
for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the
planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the
same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul-
terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed
this month if possible,, and some of the early crops sown
last month will require hoeing and weeding.

Great care should be taken to have good sound seeds, a.«
this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of
which, many are disappointed in their principal crops
when too late to sow again. It is also a material considera-
tion to have the best varieties both of seeds and plants of
the respective kinds. See pages 17 and 18.

368 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [April.

If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes,
24 ; Asparagus, 27 ; Beans, vicia faba, 31 ; towards the
end of the month, plant Beans, Phaseolus, 33 and 34 ; plant
Beet seed, 36 ; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 40 ; not
Cape Broccoli until May ; seed of Cabbage for Summer
use, 46 ; Cardoon, 48 ; plant Carrot, 49 ; Celery, 50 ; sow
Cress seed, 54; plant Cucumber, 112; sow Endive, 58;
plant Horse Radish, 59 ; plant Indian Corn, 60, Jerusalem
Artichokes, 60; sow Leek seed, 61; Lettuce seed, 62;
plant Melon, 119 ; sow Mustard seed, 65; plant Nasturtium,
66 ; sow Onion seed, 67 ; Parsley, 69 ; Parsnip, 70 ; plant
Peas, 72; Potatoes, 74; Sweet Potatoes, 75; Pumpkins,
76 ; sow Radish seed, 77 ; plant Rocambole, 77 ; Rhubarb,
78 ; Salsify, 80 ; Scorzonera, 81 ; Sea-Kale, 82 ; sow Skir-
ret, 84 ; Spinach, 86 ; plant Squash, 87 ; Totnatoe, 88 and
101 ; Turnip seed 92 ; Navet or French Turnip, variety escu-
lenta, 47 ; make Hop plantations, 126. Sow the seeds of
Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, Chervil,
Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Mar-
joram, Patience Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Smallage,
Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and
such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may
be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of per-
ennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter
Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as
described page 94 to 96. If not done last month, attend to
the Spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 26 ; Asparagus, 30 ;
Rhubarb, 79 ; Sea-Kale, 83.

Besides the work of sowing and planting the various
kinds of seeds above enumerated, all the strongest plants of
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the
hot-beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds*
in the open garden. Attend to such other business in this
department as was left undone last month, and see that th©
garden be kept neat and free from weeds.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT,

This is the most important month in the year for garden-
ing operations. If not done towards the end of the last month

April] MONTHLY CALENDAR;

the covering must be taken from hardy flowering plants,
early in this month, and the beds and borders attended to
as directed, pages 140 and 155 ; at the same time, clip edg-
ings of box, and clean, relay, or make new gravel walks,
&c., 133 ; prune and transplant flowering shrubs, 156 and
160 ; transplant also hardy herbaceous plants, 152.

Sow flower seeds ; the hardie'st may be sown in the open
borders, and the tender in the beds, 141 to 150.

All the soil of a garden should be dug this month, if pos-»
sible, and pulverized as directed, 141 and 180.

It will be necessary to look over all the greenhouse plant*
in the early part of this month; let them be deprived of
dead wood, if any, by a careful pruning; at the same time
take oft* all yellow leaves ; the earth at the top of the pots-
should be loosened, so as to admit the sun and air to thfr
roots of the plants, 217 to 219

If insects prevail on roses or other plants, a fumigation
with tobacco will be necessary.

Bulbous roots will require some attention this month ;
those in bloom in the garden should be tied up to wires or
small sticks ; and those kept inside should be watered in.
proportion as they get heat and air.

The Calla, or Ethiopian Lily, and the different varieties
of Rhododendrons, will need frequent watering while in bud
and blossom.

Air must be admitted freely to all greenhouse plants
towards the end of this month, in order to prepare them for
the exposure of the open garden next month.

For the method, of managing Dahlia roots, see 196 ; pre-
pare to plant tender bulbous roots, towards the end of this,
or early in the next month. The following should be for-
warded in pots, which may be kept in a greenhouse or warm
room, or they may be plunged in a, hot-bed ; Amaryllises,
183; Gladioluses, 198; Lilies, 202 ; Tuberoses 210; Tiger
flowers, 211.

Hydrangeas, Pomegranates, Verbenas, and other decidu-
ous shrubby plants, should be cultivated early in this month
to promote the production of leaf and flower buds.

Biennial seeds, such as Wall-flower and Stock Gilly».

370 MONTHLY CALEKDA.R. [April.

flower ; also all kinds of tender perennials should be sown
this month, if not previously done in the greenhouse, or in
hot-beds, 141, 150 and 220.

For an exhibition of the order of the flowering tribe m
this month and the next, the reader is referred to an article
entitled the Beauties of April and May, pages 170 to 178.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT,

Finish pruning hardy fruit trees the early part of this
month, also Apricot, 273 ; Almond, 276 ; Fig, 285 ; Mul-
berry,, 308; Nectarine, 312; Peach, 322; not forgetting
any other of. those trees, vines and shrubs which were left
undone last month.

Prepare the ground for planting, by digging, trenching,
and manuring, either generally or in such particular places
as are allotted for the trees to be planted in, 240,

This is the most proper season for planting the Apricot,
Almond, Fig, Grape, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, and all
such fruit trees, vines, or shrubs as originated in warm
climates, 241, 31 1, 319. Apple, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Quince
and other hardy fruit trees, may also be planted with safety
early in this month; but Autumn is considered the most
favorable seasoji for planting all trees, vines, or shrubs of
Northern latitude, 242, 337.

Those who have variety of soil should accommodate all
the varied kinds of fruit to that which has been proved to be
the best adapted to its culture ; and due attention should be
paid to situation and aspect, in planting a fruit garden or
orchard, 243.

Use means to destroy insects while in a torpid state, to
prevent their spreading, and also the larvae of insects ; direc-
tions for which will be found in the article headed
£' observations on insects, and diseases to which fruit trees
are liable," 244.

Grafting may be performed on fruit trees in general 257;
Prune and plant Currant bushes, 284 ; Filbert, 287 ;
Gooseberry, 292; Raspberry, 345. Plant cuttings and
suckers from these shrubs ; also of such trees as produce

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 371

them, in order to get a supply of stocks to bud and graft
upon, as well as some for bearing. Fruit stones and ker-
nels of various kinds may be sown for the same purpose.

This is a good season to plant cuttings of Grape Vines,
296 and 300 ; and tender varieties that were lain down in
Autumn, should be taken up, and fastened to trellises or
stakes, 299.

Strawberry beds that were protected with leaves or litter
through the Winter, should be uncovered, and the plants
carefully cultivated ; some lay straw over their beds, an inch
or two thick, and set fire to it, 348.

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects.
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c. near fruit trees,
and sow ashes over the ground. 248. 310.

" Much dew on the grass, portends as all say,
That day which succeeds will be a clear day ;
But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain,
Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain/'

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

Throughout this month attend to plantations of Cabba-
ges, Cauliflower, &c. hoe them frequently, and loosen earth
around their stems ; look out for and destroy grub worms'
caterpillars, and other insects, 12 to 14 ; thin out the early
plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and
destroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant
and sow such kinds of seeds as were omitted last month,
and transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoe, Egg-plants, &c.
from the hot.beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 33 and
34 ; Beet, 36 ; sow Borecole, 37 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 38 ;
Cape Broccoli, 40; Cauliflower, 44; Cabbage seed, 46 ;
Carrot, 49 ; Cress, 54 ; plant Cucumbers, 55 ; sow Endive
seed, 58; plant Indian Corn, 60 ; Melon 63 ; Water Melon,
64; sow Mustard seed, 65; plant Nasturtium, 66 ; Okra?
66 ; Pepper, 71 ; plant Peas, 72 ; Potatoes, 74 ; Potato*
Sweet, 75 ; Pumpkins, 76 ; sow Radish seed, 77 ; plant

372 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

New Zealand Spinach, 87; Squasli,87; Tomatoe,88. Early
in this month, finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot,
Sweet and Medicinal Herbs, 95 to 96. Some of the old
hot-beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best to
form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, and
gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and
put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh
spawn, &c. 1 14 to 118.

Watering will now be frequently required to newly planted
vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion-
ally afterwards in dry weather, until the roots are estab-
lished in the soil. Likewise seed beds recently sown, till
the young plants become vigorous.

Weeding must be very diligently attended to, both by
hand and hoe ; for as weeds grow luxuriantly it is nece&-
sa«y to eradicate them, before they spread too far, as by
neglect, they will not only impede the growth of, but eventu-
ally smother the plants.

Towards the end of the month, top such of the English
Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling
of the pods, as well as their early maturity. — See page 32.

Those who have young families should not fail sowing
some Bene plant seed*, as the plant by being plunged in a
glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an
efficacious remedy for Summer complaints. It may be
sown in drills and managed the same as Salad or Parsley.
«' See herbs, 95.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects.
Burn tobacco leaves in the greenhouse, so as to fumigate
the plants well, before they are removed into the open gar-
den ; and such plants as may show any indications of being
infested with the eggs of insects, should be sponged with
soap-suds, and afterwards well syringed and watered.
^Frequent sprinkling from the rose of a watering-pot, will
prevent insects from accumulating ; especially if the water

[May-. MONTHLY CALENDAR. * 373

be impregnated with tobacco, by a bag of the leaves being
steeped therein a few hours previous to using it.

Choice Geraniums will need attention this month, in
order that they may exhibit their flowers to advantage.
When in full bloom, care should be taken not to wet the
foliage or flowers, but this may be done freely before the
buds are expanded.

If awnings were not provided last month, for the protec-
tion of choice flowers, it should be attended to early in this
month, 184, 200, and 210 ; Plant Amaryllises, 184 ; Double
Dahlias, 196 and 197; Gladioluses, 199; Lilies, 203;
Tuberoses 210; Tiger flowers, 211 ; Sow annual, biennial,
and perennial flower seeds in the open borders, 140 to 150.
Attend to the walks, edgings, &c. and see that tall plants are
neatly tied to sticks, wires, or stakes, 133, 139, 197 and 200.
Procure and plant such perennial plants as may be neces-
sary to make variety in the flower beds, 151 and 152.

Greenhouse plants may be set out about the middle of
the month, and it should be done in cloudy weather, in
order that they may be prepared gradually for the shining
of the sun upon them. A situation, exposed to the sun for
only one half of the day, is preferable for most plants,
especially if they can be shaded at noon. 153.

Many plants, such as Coronillas, Heaths, Aucubas*
Myrtles, Oleanders, and several other sorts, are subject to
be infested with white and brown scaly insects ; if these
cannot be effectually taken from the plants by washing
and sponging, let the plants be headed down early in the
month of May, and if they are well attended to, new branches
will shoot out on the old stem.

Such Orange trees as were budded last July or August,
should also be headed down early in this month.

Auriculas, Polyanthus and Daisies, should be separated
into single tufts, and planted in a shady border for increase,
as soon as they have done blossoming.

Such Carnations as may have been wintered in frames
should now be exposed to the open air, in the flower borders.
Tulips, which will be in full perfection by the middle of
this month, will require constant attention.

32 -

374 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

Such greenhouse plants as may have done blossoming
may be primed this month, and if the cuttings be planted at
this time they will strike freely.

Cuttings of Salvia splendens and fulgens^ will produce
strong plants for blossoming in August, if planted early in
this month, 232. Chrysanthemum cuttings should now be
put down, and the suckers divided, and planted singly in the
borders, or in pots, for flowering in the Autumn, 220.

FRUIT

Finish planting trees, vines, and shrubs as early in this
month as possible ; those planted last month should be kept
watered in dry weather, and stakes should be applied to such
as may be exposed to the wind, 311, 319 and 337.

je'inish grafting early in this month, 257. Apples, Pears,
and other late shooting kinds may still succeed.

Strawberry beds may be made this month, and if the
transplanting is well done, and the plants frequently
watered, they will produce some fruit this year, and a plen-
tiful supply the next season. The Methven Scarlet, and
Mulberry or Pine, are large and yield plentifully. Kean's
seedling, and also the Downton are of superior flavour. The
Elton seedling, Southborough seedling, Myatt's seedling,
and Bishop's orange, are in great repute where cultivated.
The Wood and the Alpine Strawberry will produce finer
fruit from seed sown in the Spring than from offsets. For
mode of planting, &c., see article page 346.

If frost prevail when fruit trees are in blossom, those
trained on trellises or against walls and fences, jnay be pro.
tected by hanging matting or sheets of tow cloth over them ;
some defend them by sticking bunches of evergreens
between the branches, as cedar, laurel, pine, &c. The object
in doing this, is not so much to keep out the frost, as to
break off the sun's rays in the morning after a frosty night ;
see page 41, also flower department for December.

Propagate Fig trees, by layers, cuttings, suckers, and by
grafting, 286.

MONTHLY CALENDAR. * 375

If any webs or larvae of insects appear on the leaves of
fruit trees and vines, pluck off and destroy such leaves
before the insects become quickened, which may be a
means of preventing any depredation to the advancing
leaves and buds. In large fruit gardens and orchards
means should be used to destroy insects by fumigation,
washing, <fcc. See observations on insects, and diseases to
which fruit trees are liable, page 244.

Divest young budded and grafted trees of all shoots from
the stocks, below the bud or graft, as they appear, also rub
*>ff all useless buds in early shooting wall trees, as Nectarine,,
Apricots, &c. 274,

• The sky dress'd in placid soft redness at night, "*
Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright^
A fierce angry redness that shoots up at morn.
And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm.7'

TEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be
considered as past, but there are many kinds of seeds which
may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain
the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any
deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far
advanced. By this time, some of the early crops will be
cleared off, and such ground as was manured for the early
crops of Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c~, will be in excellent
^rderfor late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing
crops, and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from
running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will
be beneficial. -Use means to destroy insects ; read pages 1 1
to 14 for informntion on this subject. Plant Kidney
Beans, 33 and 36 ; Beet seed, 36. If the seedling plants of
Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, <fcc. failed last month, sow
again early this month. Water the beds frequently, and
sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recom-

376 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [JuitC.

mended, page 12. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, <fcc. for
Summer use ; transplant Cardoons, 48 ; sow Carrot seed in
drills, 49 ; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 55 ; sow Endive
seed, 58; plant Indian Corn, 60; transplant Leeks, 61 ;
plant Peas, soak them five or six hours in water, 72 ; plant
Potatoes, 74' arid 75; Pumpkin seed, 76; sow Summer
Radish seed, 77.

As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a
dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for Winter use,
96. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have
reached the top, nip off the tops to strengthen the stems, 126.

Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the
main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers,
of lateral heads. — See page 26.,

Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing
towards maturity, must be watered in dry weather, and as
the heads begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of
the large leaves over them to protect them from the sudden
rays of the sun, and from rain, 43.

Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions ; and
give those beds that are to stand for ripening a final thinning,
a$ suggested in pag<e 67.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

The principal sowing season may be considered as past ;
fa»ut if any failures should have happened of former sowings,
seeds may be sown the early part of this month, which if
kept watered occasionally, will grow quickly.

Greenhouse plants will need watering every evening, in
dry warm weather ; and in the absence of dews, some
sorts may need a little in the morning at sunrise, 218-
Hydrangeas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c. should be
kept shaded from the noonday sun, or they will droop, and
some may die. Carnations and Pinks will need frequent
waterings at the roots, and the branches should be tied
neatly to rods.

Such flowering shrubs as may have been planted late in
tjie Spring season, should be regularly watered in dry weather.

June.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 377

Give frequent waterings to the flower beds, in general ; cut
down dead flower stalks ; remove decayed plants, and care-
fully replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery bed.
Transplant annual flower plants into the regular beds, with
a small trowel or neat dibble, 145.

Plant Colchicums, 186 ; finish planting Dahlias, and pro-
vide poles for their support, 197 ; water them occasionally
in dry weather.

Many sorts of bulbous roots will be ripe by the end of this
month ; these should be taken up, and dried as directed,
page 181. Those cultivated in pots should not be watered
after the foliage is decayed, until the period of regermination
takes place, 183 and 212.

Nnmerous beautiful flowers exhibit themselves this month,
some of which are noticed in an article entitled The Beauties
of April and May, page 170 to 178. There are, however,
several others worthy of notice, which are omitted in that
article. The several species of the Phlox are remarkably
showy plants, and very desirable to cultivate, as they blossom
in their several varieties the whole season. Besides these
are all the splendid varieties of Roses, Pinks, Lychnises,
Sweet Williams, Fox Glove, Snap-dragons, Perennial
Lupins, Verbenas, Veronicas, Valerians, &c. These should
be all attended to, and their branches should be tied to neat
stakes, so as to enable them to exhibit their flowers to the
greatest possible advantage, 147 to 152

Dahlias that are intended for blossoming this year, should
be planted by the middle of this month, if not done before.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

The principal business of this month in the fruit garden k
Summer pruning, which is generally performed with the
finger and thumb, by detaching all superfluous shoots and
buds ; and also to thin the young fruit of Apricot, Nectarine,
and other choice trained trees, where it sets too thick or in
clusters, see pages 274 to 310.

Newly planted trees should be watered in hot dry weather,
once or twice a week.

32*

378 MONTHLY CALENDAR. '-4 ['June.

Cherry trees of the finest sorts may be defended from bird*,
with nets, particulaly those trained as espaliers, 277.

Currant and Gooseberry shrubs of choice late varieties^
trained as espaliers or standards, if very crowded with shoots
of the year, should be pruned, and the Gooseberry fruit
thinned to promote its growth and ripening in full perfection,
284 and 292.

All trees on espaliers require attention r cut off such
superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained-in,
leaving well situated middle-sized shoots to supply the place
of any old branches that it may be thought neccessary to cut
away. 274.

Grape vines should be looked over every week. Cut off
all the tendrils and useless young shoots, and stop the
shoots before the bunches of fruit. Train up the shoots
for bearing next season, and- to a proper length before you
stop them. 305.

l( Whenflmoers toward evening their bosoms expand,,
And bask in the sunbeams, there's no rain at hand ;—
But when they closs up as if conscious of fear,
They augur its coming — it no doubt is near."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage
Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leek plants, &c. for full Autumt;
crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand,
in order that they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks
may be transplanted in dry weather by first steeping the
roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least
damp in the ground when it is fresh turned over. If Car-
doons or Celery be planted in dry weather, the trenches
must be shaded with boards. As grub worms are generally
numerous in this month, plant with caution, try a few Cab-
bage plants first, and if none are eaten off, you may venture
to proceed, and by the middle of the month, the danger is
generally over,

My.] MONTHLY CALENDAR.

If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seeds may produce
good roots by Autumn, if planted early in this month ,
plant Beans, 33 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Col-
lards, 48 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 56 ; sow
Endive seed, and transplant the former sowing,- 58 ; if Peas
be planted now they should be soaked in soft water five or
six hours previous, 72 ; Potatoes may be planted early in
this month, 74; and Pumpkins if not done last month, 76.
Sow Summer Radish seed in drills, 77 ; sow Turnip-
rooted Cabbage seed, or Navet, 47 ; this is a good season
for Ruta Baga, or Russian Turnip, 93 ; and the common
kinds of Turnip seed may be sown towards the end of this
month, 92. Attend to plantations of Hops, 126; whatever
herbs may be required for Winter use, should be cut off and
dried as they come into flower, Burnet, Chervil, Fennel,
Mint,Parsley, Sweet Marjoram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter
and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month, 96.

The business of sowing and transplanting, will be more
successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the
approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for pre-
carious seeds, and young seedling plants. Attend to the
Mushroom beds, and give light waterings, or expose them
ts-warra moderate showers, occasionally, 114 to 118.
t

FLOWER DEPARTMENT..

Greenhouse plants will need daily care at this season ;
let them be watered every evening in dry weather. Such
Geraniums as may have grown large and unwieldly, should
now be pruned, in order that their size and appearance
may be improved, 219.

Garden Roses having done flowering for the season,
should also be pruned. Cut out all old exhausted wood,
and were it is too thick and crowded, shorten such shoots
as have flowered, to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accom-
panied with a healthy leaf. All wood that grows after this
pruning, will ripen perfectly, and produce large flowers the-
ensuing year.

§80 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

If dry warm weather, it may be necessary to water such
flowering shrubs and roses as were planted in the Spring ;
and if Dahlia plants could be watered two or three times a
week, it would be beneficial to their growth. Give regular
sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot, or syringe, to
shrubby plants in general, but particularly Camellias, Orange
and Lemon trees, &c., in order to keep them in a healthy
state.

Such bulbous roots in pots, whose foliage have withered,
should be kept dry until the period of regerminating, 182
and 212 ; others may be taken up as soon as ripe, after
which the offsets may be parted off, and both these and the
parent bulbs dried for planting in Autumn, 181.

The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered,
and the seeds gathered as they ripen ; apply neat rods to
tall-growing and running kinds of plants. Nip off curled
and dead leaves, and destroy insects. 133.

Orange and Lemon trees may be budded at any time
this month, and those which were headed down in the
Spring, should be examined, and all superfluous shoots
must be pruned off" with a sharp knife, leaving only the
strongest ; the tops of which should be pruned off to pro-
mote their branching. Myrtles, Oleanders, and such other
plants as may have been headed down in May, will need
similar treatment.

Carnations, Pinks, Panseys, Running Verbenas, &c.
may be layed this month for propagation, 151 and 154 ;
many kinds of cuttings, as Geraniums, Roses and exotic
shrubs, may still b» planted with success, 166.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT,

Thin the fruit of Apricot, which will be good for pies and
tarts, 274 ; thin Nectarines, also such Peaches and other fruits
as may be desired in full perfection, 310.
' Defend choice fruits from birds and insects, such as wasps,
flies, &c. ; the birds may be kept off by nets, and the insects
may be decoyed and drowned, by placing phials of strong
liquor, honey, or sugared water near the fruit..

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 381

If annoyed with ants, place cuttings of reed, hollowed
elder, or anything of a tube-like kind, in which they will
harbour, and may be destroyed by dipping the tubes in hot
water,

If mildew appear on grape vines, syringe them with
water, in which a small quantity of sulphur and stone lime
has been infused (it need not be over strong). To prevent
any injurious effects from'the lime, the vines may be syringed
alternately with the liquid, and pure water, each two or three
times a week.

Look over your fruit trees and grape vines ; stop the shoots
before the bunches of fruit, and train up such shoots as are
reserved for bearing next year. Nip off curled and dead
leaves, and destroy insects, 304.

" When clouds slow dissolve, as if turn d into air,
And vanish from sight, the next day will be fair ;
But when, in succession, they darker appear,
With watery aspect, then know rain is near."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to
hoe around the plant* and clear the ground of weeds and
stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for Fall Tur-
nips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, &,c. As the ground for
the latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly im-
proved if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which
should be afterwards spread and ploughed under.

Plant Beans for Picklers, 33 ; sow Cabbage seed for Co}-
lards, 48; earth up Cardoons, 48; do. Celery, 52; sow
Corn Salad, or Fetticus seed, 53 ; the early kinds of Cucum-.
ber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 56 ;
transplant Endive and prepare to blanch the early plantings,
58 ; Peas may be planted thus late, if desired, 72 ; sov
Summer Radish seed, 77 ; prepare for planting Shallots by
the end of this month, 85 ; sow Turnip seed for full crops, 93;

882 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [AugU$i.

attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month, cut
off and dry Sage, and other late herbs, 96. Hops will
be ripe this month; choose a dry season for gathering
them, and attend to them as directed, page 127 ; this is a
g*ood season for preparing to make Mushroom beds, in close
sheds, cellars or pits ; if the materials be gathered this
month, indigenous spawn may be collected next, but those
that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or
they may pursue Mr. NichoPs plan, 116.

Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should
be cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and
before they open in the heart for flowering ; and as you cut
them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root
offsets, 26. In dry weather hoe and plough between euch
vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will
not only Destroy weeds but encourage the growth of the
plants. Frequent hoeing in dry weather, will be more bene-
ficial than the watering pot.

Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and
Full bulbed, should be pulled up in dry weather and exposed
to the sun to ripen ; frequently turning them, that they may
'harden equally for keeping; then clear them from the gross
part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c. and
remove them to a pl^ce of shelter, 68,

Continue to gather seeds of all kinds as they ripen, and
prepare vacant ground for late crops ; such as Spinach ,
Shallots, Onjons, ^etticus, &c.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

Greenhouse plants will need particular attention this
month. They should be watered every evening in dry wea-
ther, and as soon as the extreme heat of the Summer is past,
which is generally by the latter end of this month, or early
in the next, preparation must be made for replenishing with
fresh compost, and repotting such plants as are intended to
be cultivated through the Winter in a greenhouse, light
foom, or garden frames. Previous to the commencement of
this business, let such compost as is suited to the various
of plants, be provided,

AugUSt.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 383

Those who may have a number of plants in various sized
pots, should provide a few new pots a size larger than the
largest in use ; the largest plants being shifted into the nevr
pots, leaves the next sized pots for the second-sized plants,
and by pursuing this plan of shifting until the whole are
done, the smallest pots will be left for such plants as have
been propagated in the course of the Summer.

The shifting of plants requires considerable attention and1
judgment, as some plants, if kept in too large pots, will sus-
tain considerable injury : therefore, in such cases, where the
fibrous roots have not spread around the pot, nothing more
is necessary than to rub off a little of the outside mould, and
then to substitute fresh compost for the roots to run in.

Such plants as may have become pot-bound, and whose
roots are matted around the pot, will, in many cases bear
reducing. If the matted roots are carefully pared off, and the
plants shifted into good fresh compost, they will soon take
root, and grow freely : but it will be necessary to prune off
all surplus branches of the plants, previous to repotting them,
and to shade them for a week or ten days.

Pieces of tile, or broken pots,' should be laid over the
aperture at the bottom of the pots, to enable the surplus
moisture to drain off, or the roots will sustain injury.

The flower beds will need attention this month. Water
Dahlias and other choice plants in dry weather ; cut down
all decayed flower stalks, as soon as the seed is gathered,
and pull up annuals as they cease to flower.

Plant Oxalises in small pots, 205, and prepare compost
for other tender bulbs to be planted in pots next month.

Rose shrubs, Orange, Lemon trees, &c. &c., should be
budded early in this month if not done before.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

Pursue nil that remains to be done of Summer pruning
all trained fruit trees and vines, as in the last two months ;
destroy all irregular and unnecessary after-shoots, and
train-in a requisite supply of well-situated shoots, for bearers
next year. 274 to 304.

3S4 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [September,

Keep Raspberry beds clear of all straggling suckers; tie
up such shoots as are adapted for next year's bearers to neat
stakes, and keep the ground clear of weeds, 346.

Strawberry beds should be kept clear of weeds, and the
runners may be taken from some kinds to make new plan-
tations with, 347.

If dry weather prevail, as is generally the case at this
season, hoe frequently between such young trees, shrubs,
&c , in the nursery beds, as are well rooted ; and water
tliese which were recently transplanted.

" Light vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night,
Foretoken the next day salubrious and bright,
Especially when they at morning appear,
To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air."

VEGETABLE PEPARTMENT.

Although the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on
the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still
be transplanted for Winter use. Hoe Cabbage #nd other
vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro-
gresses in growth. Sow Rape, 39 ; Cauliflower seed, 42 ;
Cabbage, 45; Corn S'alad, or Felticus, 53 ; Cress, Rape,
&c , every ten days for a Salad, 54 ; sow Mustard, for the
same purpose, 65; sow Lettuce seed, 62; Onion to stand
the Winter, 68 ; Radish for Fall use, 77 ; plant Shallots, 85;
sow Spinach seed every week or ten days, 86 ; Turnips will
sometimes come to maturity if the seeds be sown the early
part of this month, and those sown last month will need
hoeing as they progress in growth, 92.

Continue to gather, dry and pack Hops as they ripen, 127;
also all aromatic, sweet, and medicinal herbs, 96 ; this is a
good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situations i
they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as
may be most convenient, For directions to preserve spawn,
&c. see page 114.

>>cpiemler.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. * :3«o

Towards the end of this month, or early in the next, is a
good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by
parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet
weather ; at the same time, such plants as were raised from
herb seeds sown in the Spring, may be transplanted inft»
separate beds or borders, 94 to 96.

In this month must be finished all the principal sowing?
and plantings necessary this year ; on this account such
ground as is intended for principal crops next year, should
be well manured previous to planting it. — See Spinach, 8(1.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

Such greenhouse plants as may have been repotted and
pruned in the course of the last month, should be looked
over, and if they have taken root, they should be exposed
gradually to the Sun, and watered moderately in dry
weather.

If any of the greenhouse plants were plunged in the
flower beds, they should be taken up and pruned early iu
this month, and then put into suitable sized pots, 153.

Half-hardy perennials, such as Carnations, Daisies,
Primulas, Lilies, Hydrangeas, &c. should be taken up
divided carefully at the roots, and then put into moderate
sized pots, and attended to as before directed for greenhouse
plants.

Many hardy kinds of flower seeds may be sown this
month, 142 and 151. This is a good season to propagate
all kinds of hardy perennial plants, by parting the roots;
and those that were raised from seed in the Spring, may
be transplanted into regular flower beds, in cloudy OP wn-f
weather, 154. Plant Crown Imperials, 185; Persian
Cyclamens, 186 ; Ixias,201 ; Lachenalias, 202; Lilies, 202 ;
Ornithogalums, 204 ; Oxalises, 205.

Such Chrysanthemums as are intended to be protected
while in blossom, should now be taken up and planted iu
moderate sized pots, 220.

Seeds of Schizanthus, Ten- week Stock, Mignonette, and
such other species as may be desired to decorate the par-
lour or greenhouse, should be sown this month.

33

386 MONTHLY CALENDAR.

FHU1T DEPARTMENT.

Plantations of Strawberries may be made this month,
either with runners or seedling plants, 347.

Protect your Grapes and other fruit from wasps and
other insects ; either decoy them with honey or sugared
water, or hang nets over the fruit ; some are at the expense
of putting the bunches into crape or paper bags.

Grape Vines and espalier trees in general, should be
attended to, as directed in the previous Summer months ;
by depriving them of all useless shoots and suckers, train-
ing-in those branches intended for the next year's bearers,
and destroying the eggs of insects, curled leaves, &c., 304.

Stone fruit, which will now be continually ripening,
should be gathered while in full perfection, and not suffered
to get over-ripe, so as to lose its peculiar flavour. "

Ground allotted for the planting of fruit trees and vines
the coming Autumn, should be prepared this month by
digging, trenching and manuring, where necessary, 240.

' A warm open Winter doth often succeed ;-~
A hot and dry Summer, by all 'tis agreed ;
A hard frosty Winter its rigour retains,
And holds gentle Spring in its cold icy chains."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

The principal Winter crops being planted, it will be
necessary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of
the Fall crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and
earth up Celery, do it in dry weather, and not even while
the dew is on it, 52 ; Asparagus, Sea Kale, Skirret, and
Dill seed, may be sown this month. Towards the end of
the month, frames must be provided for the protection of
Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower
plants as were raised from seed sown last month. Begin to
dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough to gel

October.] MOMTHLT CALENDAR. 387

the whole placed away before the end of the next month.
Take up Potatoes and bury them in graves so as to secure
them from wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar.
Proceed to take up other roots ; begin with the tenderest
kinds, or do that which is required to be done in dry
weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and Winter
Squashes, and expose them to the sun and air on a dry
bench, or ledge, before they are stowed away. Dig up
Beets and secure them in graves, or pack them in sand in
a cellar.

Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a
thorough cleaning and dressing; by destroying all weeds,
cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such
plants as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others,
as suggested page 97.

Tie up full grown plants of Endive every week, in dry
weather, for blanching in succession as required, 58.

Horse-Radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by
trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright rooti,
leaving the old stools for future preduction, 59. Jerusalem*
Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to preserve for Win-
ter consumption, 60.

FLO-WER DEPARTMENT.

In the early part of this month, preparation must be made
for the housing of greenhouse plants. Previous to this
being done, let the room or greenhouse be white-washed with
lime, which will prove pernicious to insects, and prevent
their generating amongst the plants.

Begin the first week in this month to place all the shrubby
plants, such as Orange and Lemon trees, on the back
shelves ; others should be placed that they can be cultivated
to advantage, and they should all be arranged in regular
gradation, so as to have the low-growing or dwarf plants on
the front shelves.

Stockgillies and Wall flowers should be taken up, potted
and kept in a shady situation, until they have taken root.

MONTHLY CALENDAR.

Such Dahlia plants as have been cultivated in pots should
be sheltered from the chilling air, and those in the ground
will need attention, 182.

Prepare the ground for all the hardy kinds of bulbous
ilmver roots, 180. Towards the end of the month plant
Anemones and Ranunculuses, 184; Crocuses, 185; Crown
Imperials, 185; Gladioluses, 199 i Hyacinths, 200 ; Irises,
•J01 ; Ixias and Jonquils, 201; Lilies, 202; Narcissus,
:>03 ; Ornithogalums,. £04; Paeonies, 205; Tulips, 200.
For the management of bulbous roots in pots and glasses,
see pages 212 and 213. Prune flowering shrubs, and make
new plantations of them, 1C9.

Chrysanthemums should be neatly tied up to small sticks,
and watered occasionally with liquid manure, to promote
their blossoming in full perfection. Those in pots intended
to be protected for late flowering, should be watched and
taken in, on the appearance of a frosty night; they may,
however, be exposed to the air as much as possible when it
is soft and salubrious, as should all other half-hardy plants,

I

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

Prepare the ground for planting all kinds of hardy fruit
trees this month, by diging, trenching, and manuring 240.

Gather such varieties of Apples and Pears as are in full
growth, both of Autumn eating and Winter keeping kinds ;
do it on dry days ; let the keeping sorts lay in heaps to dis-
charge their redundant moisture ; after which convey them
to a room adapted for preserving them through the Winter ;
lay each kind separate, and cover them up with dry straw,
a foot or more in thickness according to the warmness o£
jheroom, which will preserve them in good order.

Prune Currant and Gooseberry bushes ; make new plan-
tations, and plant cuttings from these shrubs, prepared as
directed in pages 284 and 291.

Plant the stones of Cherry, Peach, Plum, &c. in drills
about two inches deep for the purpose of raising stocks and
for new varieties ; and in temperate climates, kernels of
Apple, Pear, Quince, &c. may be sown in drills about an

November.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 389

inch deep for the same purpose. Plant also cuttings of
hardy trees, suckers of Filberts, &c. 287.

Strawberry beds which were planted last month, should
be kept free from weeds, and if dry weather prevails, they
should be occasionally watered, 347.

Planting of hardy trees may be commenced towards the
end of this month, or soon after the leaves show indications
of decay, whether fallen or not, 242.

1 When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow,
A cold and wet harvest, there's no doubt, will follow ;
But when they are plenty, and good, 'tis agreed,
.\ rich golden harvest is sure to succeed."

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

Endeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen
fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ;
in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret,
Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for Winter
use, and pack them close together in graves ; give them a
coat of straw, and afterwards heap on as much earth as
will keep out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Towards
the end of the month, Turnips may be secured in the same
way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close
together against a ridge, which should be previouely formed
in a straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface ;
throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them
about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and
upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between
every row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each
other. The whole being covered up with earth, some long
dung or litter may be thrown over it sufficient to keep out
the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of manure against
the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in
the Winter for use. Some .erect a board shed to pre-
serve it from wet, or a small quantity may be kept in a

33*

390

MONTHLY CALENDAR. [November.

eeflar. Cabbages must be taken up and laid in rows
against a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-grow-
ing bed, the roots and steins being buried up to the lower
leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may be afterwards
covered with straw, or a temporary shed may be erected
orer them, Cabbages will keep for some months in a cellar,
if connected with their roots. For the management of
Broccoli and Cauliflower, see pages 40 and 108 ; Borecole,
Brusse's Sprouts, and Collards, may be taken up and
stowed away like Cabbages. Cardoons may be laid in like
Celery, or preserved in sand in a cellar. Leeks may be
taken up and laid in rows close together against a ridge,
and covered up as far as the lower leaves. If the last row
be protected from frost by a coat of stable dung, they can be
taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and
Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay,
or cedar brush. For the management of Artichoke bed?,
see page 25 ; Asparagus, 29 ; Rhubarb, 79 ; Sea Kale, 83-
Dig up roots of Horse Radish in the manner recom-
mended last month, to preserve in sand, or graves, for use
when the ground is frozen arid ice-bound. Do the like by
Jerusalem Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection.
At the same time take up as many Parsnips and other
hardy roots, as will be required for use the next three
months.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

During the continuance of mild weather, greenhouse
plants should have air at all opportunities, and water in pro-,
portion, as heat and air are attainable, 218. Bulbous roots
in pots and glasses will also need attention, 212 to 214.

Half hardy plants, such as Stock gillies, Wall flowers,
Carnations, Primulas, Hydrangeas, Daisies, &c. must either
be placed in frames, or in a greenhouse early in this month.

If Dahlia, Tuberose, and other tender roots were not
taken up last month, let it be done in due time this month,
181.

Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter,
155; finish planting bulbous roots before the frost sets in.
Plant Anemones and Ranunculuses, 184 ; Crocuses, 185 ;

[November. MONTHLY CALENDAR.. 39$

Hyacinths, 199; Irisis, 201 ; Ixias and Jonquils, 201 ; Lilies,
202; Narcissus, 203 ; Peeonies, 205; Tulips, 207 to 210.
These, and all other kinds of plants, will need protection
before tlje setting in of the Winter, 181. Flowering and
ornamental shrubs may be planted in mild weather, 169 ;
lay long litter round the roots of them, and also of the Grape
vines and other tender plants, shrubs, <fcc , 167.

Before the Winter sets in severely, let such Chrysanthe-
mums as have been cultivated in pots be planted in the
garden, or as soon as they have done blossoming, 220.

PJant Gladioluses in pots, 199 ; also such other bulbous
roots as may be required to be kept in rooms, page 212.

Mignonette, and other tender seedling plants under pror
tection, will require attention at this season; they should
not be over watered, or the plants will perish with mildew.

Camellias should be frequently syringed while in bud, or.
watered over the foliage w.ith a rose attached to the wa-
tering pot, as should all other shrubs.

FRUIT DEPARTMEiNT.

Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Chestnut, Mulberry, Quince,
Walnut and other hardy fruit trees may now be planted ;
use caution not to injure them in taking up, or removing
them ; let holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient
to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient
depth to allow of some good rich compost or pulverized
earth to be thrown in before the trees are planted, see pages
241, 311, and 337, and read the article headed "observa-
tions on the choice of fruit trees in the nursery," page 259.

Finish gathering late varieties of Apples, Pears, Grapes,
&c ; do it in dry weather, and stow them away out of the
reach of frost, as recommended last month.

Currant, Filbert, Gooseberry and Raspberry shrubs may-
be planted this month; at the same time cut out all crowded
branches, superfluous «uckers, worn-out bearers and decayed
wood, 273, 284, 287, 291, and 346.

Strawberry beds made in August and September, as well
as those of greater, age, may be covered up with leaves,
light manure, salt hay, or other litter.

392 MONTHLY CALENDAK. [December.

Protect the beds where fruit seeds and cuttings were
planted last month, by a covering of light manure, compost,
or leaves of trees.

Winter pruning may- be performed this month on some
species of hardy trees, shrubs, vines, &c. and continued at
all opportunities throughout the next month, 253.

" A wet sultry Summer, prognostics affirm,
A boist'rous Autumn will bring in its turn ;
A cold sour Autumn and ISummer portend
A Winter severe from beginning to end."

-

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

If all was not done as directed last month, there is now
no time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection
should be timely attended to, and if the weather continues
open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to
receive the benefit of Winter frosts. Collect all your pea
sticks and bean poles together, and place them undercover
to prevent their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and
provide manure for another year.

Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons,
early in the ensuing Spring, and that have not the conveni-
ence for forcing them in the ordinary way, may dig a few
grass sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them
away out of the reach of frost, through the Winter.
These being placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March or
early in April, with the grass downwards ; and Cucumber
or Melon seeds, planted in the earthy part thereof, early
plants may he produced which can be removed with the
turfs without disturbing their growth, and cultivated either
on the ridge system, as recommended in page 119, or in the
open ground, provided they can be kept growing in frames
until settled warm weather. This is also an excellent plan
in early forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk, in trans-
planting seedling plants into the fruiting beds.

If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and
cover them as recommended page 25. Defend Mushroom
beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as

December.] MONTHLY CALENDAR. 393

may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all
moderate weather through the Winter, give air to Cabbage,
Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in
frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats,
boards, litter, &c. as necessity may require.

As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar-
dener to review the results of his practice throughout the
past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for
the future.

In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he
ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables
as are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit ; with
this object in view, I would suggest that he take a retro-
spective view of his previous management, and also of the
directions given in the preceding chapters relative to the
preparation of the soil; by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing,
manuring, &c. as circumstances may require ; bearing in
mind, that although clayey soils may be benefitted by Fall
ridging, light sandy ground should lay flat through the
Winter.

FLOWER DEPARTMENT.

If all was not done as directed last month, there is now
no time to be lost. All kinds of tender plants in pots,
should be set into frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or
light mould ; and in the event of severe frosts, coverings of
mats, straw, &c. must be laid over them.

Greenhouse plants will need constant care and attention.
When water is necessary, let it be given in mild weather,
217. In case of accidents happening from frost, I would
remark, that the sudden transition from cold to heat, is often
more destructive to plants than frost itself. If, therefore,
plants get frozen, and cannot be screened from the rays of
the Sun, they should be watered as the air gets warm, and
before they begin to thaw. If sufficient attention be paid,
so as to have the temperature of the house gradually rising,
as the water is sprinkled over the leaves, it may be a means
of preserving plants that would otherwise be destroyed.

See that the greenhouse, or room in which plants are kept,
is so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the
departure of warm air in the night season.

394 MONTHLY CALENDAR. [December.

Collect from heaths and rocks, such kinds of earth as arc
suited to the different species of exotic plants, and gather up
leaves of trees. If you intend to make hot-beds of them,
they should be put together dry ; but if you intend them for
compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible, in
order that they may rot, for use in succeeding years.

FRUIT DEPARTMENT.

If any of the work recommended to be done in the last
month was not accomplished, let it be done with all possible
dispatch this month, as we know not what a day may bring
forth.

Protect the stems of newly-planted trees. Cover with
litter the roots of Grape Vines and Figs against walls, and
cover the branches with mats, &c. In temperate climates
prune Apple, Pear, Quince, and other hardy fruit trees; cut
out rotten and decaying branches, 253.

To destroy insects on the fruit trees, and prevent them
from creeping up and breeding on them, do as follows :

Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook-
like iron made for the purpose ; with these scrape clean off
all the moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife pick
out or cut away cankered parts of the bark and of the wood,
in such a slanting manner that water cannot lodge in the
sides of the stems of the trees. Having cleared the trees in
this way, make up a mixture of lime, soot and sulphur ;
put these ingredients into a pot or tub, pour boiling water
upon them, and with a stick stir and mix them well together.
When this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the
thickness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the mixture,
and apply it to the stems and large branches of the trees,
dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark.

The pruning of hardy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may
be performed at all favourable opportunities through the
Winter, 251 to 254.

For farther information on the Winter management of
Fruit Trees, the reader is referred to the articles commen-
cing pages 239, 244, 251 and 259.

395

VEGETABLES, HERBS, FLOWERS &

Veget Abies.

Page Page

Artichoke 23—382 Mushroom 113, 124, & 382

Asparagus 27— 105 '. Melon . 63— 119 &392

Beans, Eng. Dwarf 31—107; Melon, Water

64

Beans, Kidney Dwarf 33—107 Mustard,

65-123

Beans, Pole or Running 34 Nasturtium .

"66

Beet . . 36 Okra

66

Borecole, or Kale . 37 Onion

67

Brussels Sprouts . 38 Parsley

69

Broccoli . . 39—108 Parsnip

70

Cauliflower . , 42—108 Pepper

71

Cabbage . . 45—101 Peas

72 & 120

Colewort, or Collards 47 Potatoe

74 & 120

Cardoon Artichoke 48 Potatoe, Sweet

75

Carrot . . 49 Pumpkin .

75

Celery . 50 Radish

76 & 121

Corn Salad or Fetticus 53 Rocambole, Garlic,

fce. 77

Cress . . 54— 123 Rhubarb

78—122

Cress Water . 48 Salsify

80

Chives . . 56 Scorzonera .

81

Cucumber 55, 109, 112 & 392 Sea Kale

82-107

Egg Plant . 56, 101, & 123 Skirret

84

Endive . .58 Shallot

85

Horse Radish , 59 Spinach

86

Indian Corn . 60 Squash

87

Jerusalem Artichoke 60 Tornatoe

88-123

Leek . . 61 Turnip, French or Navet 47

Lettuce . . 61—112 Turnip, Russian . 93

llerbs and Flower*.

Annual Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of ... 136
Aromatic, Pot and Sweet Herbs, a Catalogue of . 94—95

Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of 147
Climbing Plants ..... 139, 150 & 162

Chrysanthemums, a Catalogue of .... 219

Double Dahlias, a Catalogue of ... 188 to 195

Edgings, Lawns, &c. ..... 133—154

Greenhouse Plants, Descriptire Catalogue of . . 221
Greenhouse Plants, Management of . . . 215 — 220
Herbs, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal, Culture of 96, 97 & 368

396

INDEX.

Herbs, to Preserve 96 376 & 387

Roses, running kinds of . . . ... 165

Salad Herbs, .... 53, 54, 65, 94, 96, & 123

Shrubs, Fiowering and Ornamental . . 155 to 165

Poetic Pieces.

To raise your Flowers 134
Spring ' 141

First Flowers 154

The Beauties of April and

May
Matrimonial Garden

170 to 178
234

Bullions ami Tuberous-Rooted Plants.

Amaryllis

Anemone & Ranunculus

Crocus

Crown Imperial

Colchicum

Cyclamen

Double Dahlia

Gladiolus

Hyacinth

Iris

Ixia

183

Jonquil

184

Lachenalia

185

Lily

185

Narcissus

386
J86

Ornithogalum
Oxalis

186

Paeony

198

Tulip

199

Tuberose

200

Tiger Flower

201

201
202
202
203
204
205
205
206
210
211

Fruits.

Apple

Apricot

A Imond

Cherry

Chestnut

Cranberry

Currant

Fig

Filbart

Gooseberry

Grape

263 Mulberry 307

272 ' Nectarine 309

275 'Oranga, Lemon, &c. 314

276 peach , 316

28 1 1 Pear 327

282 Plum 336

283 Quince 343
285 1 Raspberry 344

287 Strawberry 346

288 Walnut 350
293

INDEX TO THE GENERAL MATTER.

Adaptation of the directions in this book to all climates, 23 &355
Animal and Vegetable Matter compared 218—319

Air, Heat, Light, and Moisture, essential to

Vegetation 57, 134, 146, 217 & 358

Annual, Biennial and Perennial plants defined, 95, 135 & 146
Ashes valuable to the Farmer, 92, 248 to 250

Aspect, Situation, &c. 7, 131, 181, & 239

Awning necassary to protect choice Flowers 185, 200, & 210

inrotx. 397

Page.

Blank Book, recommended, 8, 100, 143, 209 & 357

Budding and Grafting Fruit Trees, &c. 168, 255 to 259

Bulbous and Tuberous Roots, defined,
Bulbous and Tuberous Roots, management of
Camellias, or Japan Roses, cultivation of 360, 361 <fc 391

Changeable Flower Garden 153

Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery 259

Deep Planting, Destructive toTrees,&c. 22, 311, 319,337 & 367
Drilling System recommended, 11, 16, 46, 93 & 98

Durability of thegerminative properties of Seeds,17 to 21 &134
Definition of the term Hi LL, 55

Diseases of Trees, Insects, &c. 244, 260, 311 & 3^

Double Dahlias, General Management of 181 & Igg

Effects of cultivation exemplified in Celery, 50

Evil effects of sowing prematurely 9, 20, 36, 49, 58, & 92

Flower Garden, Observations on 131, 134, 146, 155, fc 179
Forcing Vegetables, Observations on 102

Fruit to Protect and Preserve 374, 378, 380, 388 & 391

Garden Tools, &c. indispensably necessary 11, 140, 254 & 255
General Observations on the Kitchen Garden, 7 to 22

Grafting Clay, Composition, &c. to make 259

Hedges of Shrubs, 131—155

Hot-beds, Management of 101 to 110, 359 & 362

Inmates of the Garden, Natives of Various

Climates 19, 57, 131, 134, 146 & 2l5

Insects, to destroy 12, 13, 92, 244 to 250 & 311

Laying out the Ground, 7, 14, 16, 13l, 380 & 240

Manure, Compost, &c. 10, 92, 109, 218, 296 & 394

Method of cultivating and curing Hops, 125 to 129 &, 376
Monthly Calendar, 356 to 394

Observations on the Fruit Garden and Orchard 239

Plan of Beds, &c. 17, 97 to 101—131

Plants often killed with kindness 217, 220, 358 & 360

Perennial Plants, to propagate 151, 154, 166, 215 & 385

precision in small matters, important, 15, 41, 57, 62 & 92

Primulas and Polyanthus, cultivation of 364 & 365

Protection of Flower Beds 155,181, 184 & 210

Propagation of Shruhg and Greenhouse Plants, 166 &. 220

Pruning & Training Fruit Trees,Vines, 156, 169, 251 366, & 379
Rolling recommended, 11, 15 & 50

Roses, management of 364—379

Rotation of Crops, observations on 14, 91, 97 to 100

Shifting, Potting, £ Replenishing Greenhouse Plants 218—383
Shrubby.Greenhouse Plants, management of 166, 220, 361 &380
Soils, Management of 9, 27, 91, 141, 180 & 240

Sowing Season, 9, 20, 33, 92, 356 ot 394

Summer Complaint, a remedy for 372

Tables, Classifications, Estimates, etc. 16, 19, 354 & 400

Thermometer recommended, 105—358

Transplanting Seedling Plants, &c 16, 22,'24, 43, 46, 145& 31 1
Temperance in the use of water recommended 217-218 &35S
Vegetables, to preserve, 387, 389 & 392

Weather, observations and prognostics on 352 to 392

34

RETROSPECTIVE VIEW.

This summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to aid
the Seedsman and Gardener in making out a bill of seeds for
the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under
the regulations suggested in the preceding chapters of this
\rork, to which the reader is referred fora more concise view
of the subject. Page.

Artichoke ; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants
Asparagus ; one ounce will be sufficient tor 1,000 plants, 27
Beans, English Dwarf; one quart of seed wttl be required

for every sixty feet of row, 32

Beans, Kidney Dwarf; one quart of seed will plant from
350 to 400 hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, as ex-
plained in page ... . . .34

Beans Pole, or Running; one quart of Lima, or large run.
, ning Beans, will plant 100 hills. One quart of the

small runners will plant about 300 hills, or 250 ft. of row, 35
Beet ; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole 37
Borecole, or Kale ; an ounce will produce, 4,000 plants, 38
Broccoli ; one ounce is sufficient for 4,000 plants, 41

Cauliflower; an ounce of this seed will produce 4,000 plants, 44
Cabbage; one ounce will produce 4,000 plants, 46

Cardoon Artichoke; an ounce will produce 600 plants, 48
Carrot; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, 50
Oelery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, 51

Corn Salad, or Fetticus; one ounce of seed, will sow

about two poles of ground, . .54

Cucumber ; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, 56
Egg Plant; an ounce of seed will produce 4,000 plants, 57
Endive, or Succory ; an onnse will yield 5,000 plants, 58
Leek; one ounce of seed may be allotted for 3,000 plants, 61
Lettuce ; an ounce will produce, say 10000 plants, t>2"

Melon ; one ounce of seed will plant from 120 to 150 hills, 64
Melon, Water ; an ounce will plant from 40 to 50 hills, 65
Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, 67
Parsley ; two ounces may be allowed for three perches, 69
Parsnip; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, 70
Pepper; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, 71

Peas ; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, 73
Potatoes; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be alloted

for an acre, , . . .74

Potatoe, Sweet; half a peck of seed, properly managed,

will produce 15 bushels, . 75

Pumpkin; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from
5 to 600 hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will
plant from 50 to 80 hills, . .76

Radish; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown
broadcast, and about half the quantity if sown in drills. 77
Salsify; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches. 81
Shallots ; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty pole .... 85

Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five
perches of land. If broadcast, it will require double the
quantity. . 86

Squash ; an ounce of seed will plantfrom50 to 100 hills,

according to sorts and size. .... 88

Tonaatoe ; one ounce of seed will produce 4,000 plants 89
Turnip ; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land. 02

399
QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE.

Clover, sown alone 12 pounds I Orchard Grass 2 bushels

Timothy 1 peck. ] Rye Grass. 2 bushels*

Herds Grass 1 bushel. | Lucerne 8 pounds.

For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be
found excellent, viz : 6 pounds of clover seed, 1 peck of herds grass*
and half a bushel of Orchard grass seed— or 6 pounds clover, half a
bushel of rye grass, and half a bushel of tall meadow oat seeds.

RETROSPECTIVE VIEW OF THIS EDITION OF THE
YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT.

While making the preceding index, I availed myself of the opportunity
afforded me of surveying the fruits of my labour ; and, although I have
to crave the reader's indulgence for several errors of the press and slips
of the pen, which appear unavoidable in a work of this kind, I think I
may assert, without exposing myself to the charge of arrogance or
egotism, that this edition very far excels those before published, not only
as to the a Mitional amount of information it contains, butfrom the im-
proved method in which the instructions are exhibited to the reader,
who will, I am persuaded discover on an attentive perusal of the work,
that he has the various subjects laid before him in a concise, and at the
tame time an explicit manner. Several new and interesting article*
have been composed expressly for this edition, on various subjects,
some of which it is presumed, have never before been discussed for
publication. The reader is referred to pages, 19, 23, 134, 146, 166, 220,
311, 319 and 337; also introduction to the calendar and index.

T. BRIDGEMAtf,

New-York, March, 1840.

4 00 AD V EKT ISE M 3 N Y.

?^ec8t amr jFiotoer

GREENHOUSE PLANTS,

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS, Sfc. Sfc

T. BRIDGEMAN would here remind his friends that he has a Seed
Store and Greenhouse, corner of Eighteenth st. and Broadway, immedi-
ately north of Union Place Park ; and West of the New- York and Har-
laem Rail Road ; and he trusts he shall not be accused of arrogance or
egotism for a-serting his belief that upwards of twenty years' experience
as a Gardener, and fourteen as a Seedsman, in the vicinity of New- York,
entitle him to the confidence of the public,

He can only here enumerate a few of the leading articles in his collec-
tion, which he can conscientiously recommend as being well calculated
to suit the market.

GARDEN SEEDS.— A full assortment of all those varieties of vege-
table seeds that have been tested in this climate, and proved to have some
good qualities to recommend them ; none others will be offered at the
counter.

HERB SEEDS.— Including Sage, Thyme, S weet Marjoram, Summer
Savory, &c.

FLOWER SEEDS — Annual, Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds
of the most esteemed varieties.

GREENHOUSE PLAN IS.— Consisting of several choice varieties
of Geraniums, or Pelargoniums, China Roses, Cammelias, or Japan Ro-
ses, Carnations and various ornamental Plants, including Orange, Le-
mon Trees, &c.

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS —Hyacinths, Tulips,
Narcissus, and such other bulbs as are calculated to blossom in pots or
glasses ; also, Gladioluses, Tuberoses, Amaryllises, Tiger Flowers, &e,
together with a full assortment of DOUBLE DAHLIAS, embracing all
the newest and most splendid varieties* of every shade and complexion.

HORTICULTURAL BOOKS.

THE KITCHEN GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR, containing ample direction*
for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Herbs, &c.

THE FLORIST'S Gums, containing practical directions for the cultiva-
tion of Flowers. Third edition improved,

THE YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT, containing practical directions
for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Flowers, Fruit Trees, th«
Grape Vine, &c. &c. Eighth edition enlarged.

KfSeedsmen and Booksellers supplied on liberal terms.

MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES.

BIRD SEEDS— Hemp, Canary, Yellow, Rape, and Millett ; Flax,
Timothy, Clover, and Grass Seeds; Split Peas for Soup; Scotch Barley
Russian Mats, Flower Pots, &c &c. on moderate terms.

Q3"Bouquets of Flowers tastefully arranged, and delivered to order at
the shortest notice.

ADVERTISEMENTS. %

JUST PUBLISHED

The Kitchen Gardener's Instructor ;

Containing a catalogue of Garden and Herb Seeds, with practical direc-
tions under each head, for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables and
Herbs, with a Calendar showing the Work necessary to be done in a
Kitchen Garden in every month throughout the season. Also, Directions
for forcing and forwarding Vegetables out of the ordinary season. By T.
Bridgeman, Gardener, New-York ; price 37£ cents, 144 pages, in neat
boards.

The above is the title of the best little Gardening Manual «ver offered to
the public, and in apropos time, as the season is just about opening. The
author of this \vork is well known as a practical gardener, and therefore
writes from his own experience; his directions for raising Asparagus,
Celery, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Rhubarb for tarts, Tomatoes, and M-jshrooms
are worth all the price charged", as are also his directions for making and
sowing a hot-bed. The Monthly Calendar is of itself an invaluable part of
the book! In short those who are dissatisfied, after a perusal, will have
their money returned.

G. C. THORBURN.

THE

" This is one of the bestjworks oti the subject ever published in an«
country: it contains Pract'cal Directions for the Cultivation of Annual?
Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herba-
ceous and Shrubby, Bulbous, Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including
the Double Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c. &c.

A Work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, it re-
quired an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any sort of
readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in
rooms, &c. which when procured, were so full of botanical foppery,
that plain, honest people, after wading through some throe or four hun-
dred pages, were as wise as to knowing how to set about their garden-
ing, as when they commenced their book. The present little work
obviates all these difficulties. The Author is well known as one of our
practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the
Ladies in particular (for whom the work was projected) an essential
service ; the directions for the care of the Camellia Japonica, the
Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual Flower Seeds, are
alone worth double the price of the book ; so is the Calendarial Index*
which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is made to include
in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than in some
ponderous octavos on the same subject."

[Commercial Advertiser.] Geo. C. Thorburn, 11 John street,

34*

402

COMMENDATORY NOTICES

Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture,,.

Botany, &c. published by Hovey & Co. Boston:

" The work is written in plain language, easily to be understood by
the young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and ita
value, even to the partly experienced person, is by no means of an ordi-
nary character. IT is ADAPTKD TO OUR CLIMATE, and unlike compila-
tions from English works, the novice is not led into disappointment by
following the rules there laid down, as he generally is, when following
advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, IT is

WORTH ALL OTHERS OF A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN

PUBLISHED IN THIS COUNTRY ? and its cheapness should place it in the
hands of all new beginners.''

Extract of a letter from Lansingburgh : —

" Dear Sir, — You will see by the next month's New York Farmer> if
you have not already seen by the Albany papersi that several copies of
your 'Young Gardener's Assistant' have .been given as premiums, by
the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself
were on thfl committee for awarding premiums, and thought your work
was deserving encouragement, and that even in this small way, we
might be of service in bringing it before the public as worthy of being
given as PREMIUMS. "ALEXANDER WALSH."

"The first edition of 'The Young Gardener's Assistant' has been
favourably noticed in France : — " One of the leading articles of the
Annales de V Institute Royal Horticole de. Fromont, is a long notice of
'The Young Gardener's Assistant,' by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this
city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulauge Boclin, speaks of the little
work in very commendable terms." — New-York Farmer.

"Among the plants, for the cultivation of which 'The Young Gar
dener's Assistant contains directions, are a number of culinary vegeta-
bles not generally introduced into the United States. The introduction
and successful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resour-
ces of our country. We recently saw, for instance, in Bridgeman'9
garden, several varieties of Broad Beans, Viciafaba, in a most vigorous
and thrifty growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was
not suitable so early in the season for any other vegetable. They put
forth a beautiful blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the
flower garden. — New-York Farmer.

" From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate
heads, and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be
an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the
management of their own gardens. — Albany Argus.

" It will we are persuaded be found, what the writer intends it shall
be, ' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the
management of their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener
himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable
to our climate — an advantage of no little moment." — American.

COMMENDATORY NOTICES.

" Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject or*'
which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of
twenty years' experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted Ju-
an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than-
those in more costly and expensive works." — Courier & Enquirer.

" No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening, ever published in this
country, has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale.
Mr. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writ«»-
from his own experience.' — Daily Advertiser.

"The calendarial index is invaluable, aud of itself worth the price of
the book."— Commercial.

" That work which teaches us how to create -md to improve thig
most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of
applause and patronage; and such we consider 'The Young Gardener's
Assistant.' — Advocate.

" The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged
in Agriculture, ' far Irom the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciples
of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seeds-
man, and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic.5' — Old
Countryman.

" From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgeman's book, we
should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on dits or
dictums of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment
pointed out ; and in this particular, we value his book — leading the
young gardener to learn to depend more on his own judgment than on
the rules of custom. — American Farmer.

"All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening,
and one which will convey the best information on the management of
Hot-beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent
Vegetables, Pruning, Grafting and Buddin r Fruit Trees- Training th*
Vine, Preserving the Fruit from Mildew, &c. should procure this. No
Work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half aa
extensive a sale, or decided public approbation, as this valuable compen-
dium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands the subject on which he
treats. The very rapid sale of the five former editions is quite a suffi-
cient recommendation." — G. C. Therburn,

" We can assure gardeners and farmers, that they will in times rvad
ways almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the
book. Mr. B. bestows great labour on his productions of the pen, not
only as to practical matter of fact, but to the various excellences of
style, particularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words.
The amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value ;
and all this information is adapted to this country, and its climate and
soil." — American Gardener's Magazine.

"BRIDGEMAN'S GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. — The sixth edition of this
useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by
the addition of several matters not contained in either of the former
editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the
gardener's memory." — Evening vPost.

" From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ' The
Young Gardeners's Assistant,' we should judge that it embraces a
greater amount of practical information, applicable to eur climate,
than can be found in any similar work. The list of fruit trees has been
selected from the best authorities, both foreign and American, and is
sufficiently extensive for any cultivator in this country."— Newark,
Daily Advertiser.

404

COMMENDATORY NOTICES OF THE FLORIST'S GUIDE,

THK FLORIST'S GUIDE. — A delightful little book, which we advise
every body to purchase — at least every body that has the least liking for
the pleasing occupation on which it treats. — Courier & Enquirer.

Mr. Bridgeman, of this city, has published a neat little work, entitled
'The Florist's Guide,' containing directions for the cultivation of flow-
ers. It is a pleasant and instructive little book. — Times.

" The Florist's Guide," like its companion, " The Young Gardener*!
Assistant,'1 is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may
consult to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of
various species; the names and characters of each being alphabetically
arranged, makes it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to
superintend the management of their own gardens." — Newark D. Adv.

" The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious,
and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information,
unencumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work.
We very cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful
book.'5 — Gardener's Magazine.

THE FLORIST'S GUIDE is the title of a duedecimo volume, of 140
pages, just issued from the press in this city. It is the production of
Mr. T. Bridgeman, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist, and contains
directions for the cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial
Flowering Plants, of different classes. A work of this description can-
not but prove valuable to Horticulturists, particularly to those Ladies
who are fond of that healthful employment of cultivating their own
flower-beds. — Gazette.

We observe that Mr. T. Bridgeman, the ingenious author of ' The
Young Gardener's Assistant,' has put to press another work, entitled
' The Florist's Guide,' containing directions [for cultivating flowering
plants and greenhouse plants of every description. It is very neatly
printed, and although extending to 130 pages, is offered at the low.
price of 37 i cents per copy. — Old Countryman.

7/jP I have selected the foregoing notices from a long list of equally
flattering testimonials relative to the merits of these work?* This'curtail.
ment was rendered necessary by the very valuable additional informa-
tion incoi porated in the present volumes, which will be found much more
complete than any of their predecessors. According to my humble opinion,
Shis will add to the well-earned celebrity of their Author, and place his re-
putation on a permanent basis, as a sound, judicious, and able writer on*
u the delightful Art of Gardening " THE PRINTER*

405

PEOPLE OF THE l:\ITED STATES OF AMERICA,

FF.L LOW CITIZENS I

An application having been made to your representatives in Con-
gress, to vote a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the
United States OR ABOUT A MILLION' DOLLARS OF YOUR RESOURCES, to the
promotion of an improved system of " Terra-c-ilture^ as described in
Senate, document No 23, of the third session of the 25th Congress, I
hereby direct your attention to a few extracts taken from the applicant'*
preamble; copies of which have been forwarded to each- member oftha
V6th Congress, in session November 30, 1839.

From the Poughkeepsie Eagle, Saturday Morning, January 25, 1840.

PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREES, PLANTS, &c-
GREAT DISCOVERY.

To the Hon. Perry Smith, chairman of the United Plates Senate
Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress. "With" the consent
and by the advice on the 23d inst, of the chauaian of the Unite I States
Senate Committee on Agriculture of the 25th C« ngress, I forward to
each member of the 28th ( 'ongress, the accompanying document dated
the 14th inst; the object is t) show you soma. of the proof that a di covery
of vital importance to civilized mail has been made, which in several
letters from different members of the present and last Congress, is valued
at HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS OF DAYS' LABOUR, AND WORTH MORE THAN AL*

THE DISCOVERIES OF THE PRESKNT AGE COMBINED THE APPLIC ATIONOF

•TEAM NOT EXCEPTED"

" For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more
freely or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or
the proceeds thereof? Would they not be grateful to those members of
Congress, who assist in giving the owners of the public domain thfr
desired information, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind."

" For the honour of the republic, for the honour of the age, and for
the interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unborn, let not that
discovery which may cause two seeds to ripen where one now does,
which prevents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has
been searched for in vain during tl*e history of all civilized society, die
with the discoverer for want of the action of the United States Congress."

Our patriotic discoverer ': claims the following five discoveries as his,
besides other discoveries which are stated in his memorial to the 25tb
Congress ': —

1st. "That various diseases, universally supposed to be destructive to
plants, are only symptoms that a particular error in cultivation has been
committed ; and that many other injurious effects have been produced
by the same error, which are attributed to other causes."

2d. "That the error is UNIVERSALLY COMMITTED, to a greater or lew
extent, throughout the States, and that he has seen an excess of it
wherever he has been, which is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to
Massachusetts inclusive."

8d. " That the PEACH AND NECTARINE are more easily injured by the
error than most other Fruit Trees, and the cause of their being more
easily injured by it 5 and that this error causes them Ho be barren, Q£
"

406

4th. "That the application of two known laws in Nature demonstrate
the reality of his discovery and its application to the whole vegetable
kingdom; and that by them, his discovery, (if publicly known,) must be
perpetuated, and his practice more easily introduced ; and that by these
two laws the occasional success of common remedies is explained. "

5th. "That the said error is the obstacle which has discouraged ex-
perimenters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the science and
practice of agriculture ; and that he has discovered facts and made him-
self acquainted with knowledge sufficient to reduce them to practice."

We are further informed, " that it is neither climate, nor soil, nor
insects, nor worms, that are the cause of many of the disastrous effects
that have been attributed to them, but that those effects are produced by
error in cultivation which diseases the smallest plant or largest tree.*'

Our modest and patriotic fellow-citizen admits in the course of hii
preamble, " that the practical part or' his discovery is so EXTREMELY
SIMPLK and economical, th.tt it co?ls no more to prevent the diseisei
than it does to produce them ; and that it is so different from the esta-
blished theories and habits of the people, THAT UNLESS A LARGE AMOUNT
BE APPROPRIATED, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the
PUBLIC GOOD seems to require that a large amount should be appropri-
ated." He moreover asserts, that " there are two known laws in.
Nature, by which the reality of his discovery, and its application to the
whole vegetable kingdom, are demonstrable in less than thirty words."

That this invaluable secret, whatever it may be, is nr>t strictly speaking
a new di covery, is demonstrable by numerous living witnesses which
have inhabited the fields and forests of the old world for over a thousand
years ; and our discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language,
that there are thousands of trees in our own country on which, what he
terms "the common error.' has never been committed; and also, that
several of the fifteen gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret,
confidently fof ever, have some such trees on their own domains.

Hear him*— " The Senator from Missouri, (Mr. Linn,) said, that the
most flourishing and healthy Peach tree in his possession had never had
what I call the common error in cultivation committed upon it."

" The Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. McKean,) said, that he had
long supposed that what 1 call the common error, was an error, but that
he had no idea of such extensive evils arising from it."

"The Senator from Maryland. (Mr. Spence,) said, that in his district
it was a universal custom to commit what I call the common error in
cultivation, on the fruit trees, and that it was as common to have no
Plums perfect and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on
which the error had not been committed for twenty years, if ever; and
those few (four) continued to bear abundantly annually ; that he had no
recollection of ever seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these
four trees, but that he had never supposed that to have been the cause
of their perfection.*'

The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun), to whom I am
indebted for pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable
suggestion in the culture of plants, said, "while examining the defective
trees around the Capitol, that the principle when exhibited, was very
plain and simple, that it was philosophical, and in his opinion it could
not be neglected without injury to the health and growth of trees and
plants, and deserving of public patronage."

"The Vice President of the U. S. (Mr. Johnson,) said, that my dis-
covery was perfectly consistent with the laws of Nature ; and, (when
observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the
error, and were recovering,) further remarked, that my theory wa»
essentially correct and obvious to the most superficial observer."

407

" The member from New-York, (Mr. Jackson,) said that he ha<l
reared an orchard on which he had carefully avoided an excess of what I
call the common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourish-
ing and fruitful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he had recently
§een a field of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushel*
of shelled grain to the acre, in which an excess of the error had been
avoided, while the success was attributed to quite a different cause."

From the preceding extracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasure
lays near the surface ; and from the disclosure having been communicated
to rational and intelligent minds, it is preposterous to expect that those
gentlemen can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con-
trary to knowledge and sound judgment; they must, therefore, necessa-
rily a»d unavoidably communicate the secret by their example, which
will eventually disseminate, in proportion as mankind take an interest
in the merits of the" alleged discovery.

But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld
from the community for want of the action of the United States Congress,
I have submitted an exposition of my ri^ics of the particular point*
adverted to in the preamble, which may be found under the heads, Necta-
rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 311, 319 and 337, of the eighth edition of
the Young Gardener's Assistant ; and I would furthermore remind my
readers, that the directions heretofore given in this and previous edition*
of the work, are in strict accordance with the same doctrine ; and that
although the error alluded to is admitted to have been very generally
committed, I am not aware that any writer has evertaught or encouraged
the error, either direct or indirect ; I confess, however, that I have been
induced to expatiate on this malpractice in horticulture, from the subject
having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legisla'ors of these
United States.

And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no
bearing on the alleged discovery, I would prepare the public mind for it»
reception by an exhortation to TEMPERANCE AND MODERATION, as the
only safe course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation of
all the varied species of plants, which comprise ' the whole vegetable
kingdom/' In articles, pages 19, 134, 146 and 217, I have shown that
the various species of plants which occupy our greenhouses, garden*,
and fields, require each their peculiar aliment — they having been col-
lected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils through earth's
remotest bounds; they consequently comprise natives of mountains and
rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and Water courses. The most essen-
tial aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being HEAT,
artificial means are used in cool seasons, and unpropitious climates to
produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious AIR, hence
they are cultivated to the greatest perfection in our Northern States in
Spring and Autumn ; and in our Southern States in the Winter; see page
355, and natives of humid climates, as also amphibious plants in general,
require a more than ordinary share of MOISTURE, and grow best in wet
soil ; but these THREE LKMKXTS collectively constitute the food of plant*
in general, and should be judiciously imparted to the various species, in
due proportions according to circumstances. See pages 41, 54, 57 and
358, for a more concise view of this subject. I have also shown,
that the roots of various species of plants require each their peculiar
aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land; this it
demonstrated by roots of trees being frequently discovered spreading
beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutary food.

Although it has been admitted that excessive deep planting of trees
and plants is injurious, and in many cases fatal to their very existence,
it does not follow that all annuals and biennials are injured by the same
means; on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of plants
in a late stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which

408

Constitutes the most essential art in gardening for the market ; because
the earliest crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a ne-
cessary practice in climates where the seasons for gardening are short-
as without such practice, many kinds of vegetables could not possibly
be matured in due season for gathering before Winter.

I would here take the opportunity of proving this last position, by
reminding the reader that the effects of deep planting, the Peach tree
for instance, is discoverable soon after the error is committed, by its
fruit ripening prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two
prior to its final decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against
planting perennial plants and trees too deep.

In conclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my
works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult
the operations of Nature in all their rural pursuits ; and with a view to
aid them, I subjoin the following rules, which are further illustrated
under the different heads :

1. In transplanting fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which
emanate the main roots, be near the surface. A medium-sized tree may
be planted an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed ; and the largest
should not exceed two or three inches, see pages 311, 319, 337 and 367
of the Young Gardener's Assistant, eighth edition.

2. In the cultivation of such plants as are transplanted, or grown in
hills or clusters, as Indian Corn, «&,c. keep the earth loose but level around
them in their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or
cultivating ; and to promote early maturity, throw a moderate portion
of earth about the roots and stems at the last or final dressing.

3. In the sowing of seeds, remember that IN UNITT THERE is STRENGTH,
and that from the germinative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive,
it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary and alone.
To insure a fair chance plant your seeds moderately thick, and thin out
the surplus plants while young. In planting seeds in drills, which is the
most eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should
be considered ; large seeds, producing vigorous roots, require deeper
planting than diminutive seeds, producing, delicate roots and slender
stalks.

4 In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate
the native soil of each peculiar species as nearly as possible, by a judij
cious mixture of maiden earth, loam sand, leaf, swamp and rock mould,
decomposed manures and such other composts as are recommended
und?r the different heads. Remember, that although strong manure i«
-essential to the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others. PURSUE,
THEN, A MEDIUM COURSE. From your soil not being too stifTor too light,
too rich or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too poieous, if
not positively salutary and congenial to all, it must render the situation
of each endurable. I again repeat, that temperance in the use of
aliment, is as essential to the welfare of the vegetable family, as it is to
the health, happiness, and longevity of mankind.

T. BRIDGEMAN.

New-York, March 4, 18K).

O" Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article
in the Poughkcepsic Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein our
modest and patriotic discoverer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge
as superior to that of " all Botanical and Agricultural known Writers .'"
As I have anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery
in my books, I have nothing more to say than to remind the reader, that
this uncalled for attack on the brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies
the publication of these my voluntary disclosures.

D. Mitchell, Printer, 265 Bower/.

VB 78629

6G8574

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

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