Greening's fruit growers' guide : complete in four departments

Historic, Archive Document

Do not assume content reflects current scientific knowledge,
policies, or practices.

at

Fruit Growers’

PART ONE—Chapter on Transplanting. |
PART TWO—Chapter on Fruit Growing.
PART THREE—Chapter on Marketing.

COMPLETE IN FOUR DEPARTMENTS. 9 19 ji

PART FOUR—Chapter on Spraying.

riui “HOTO ENG CO.

CHAS. E. GREENING.:
AUTHOR OF GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

PUBLISHED BY
GREENING BROS., - = Mownroz, Micu.

MICHIGAN’S LARGEST NURSERIES,
ESTABLISHED 1857.

PRICE, - 50 CENTS.

(COPYRIGHTED)

THE HADLEY PRINTING CO., TOLEDO, 0.

GREENING BROS.’ -NURSERIES.

600 ACRES. :
LARGEST a BEST IN MICHIGAN.

NURSERYM EN=== ~SEEDSMEN—— eS — PUBLISHERS ~——HORTICULTURISTS.

- »- S54 5 < a Se Ee re ee a = et Oe ae yy Ue, ed, ee eee
a : : 4 Fo WSS AS nities, im: iy A. aA
, we Ate Pee A e ; ny + ah + + ee a
: : a ; wee PS.

Banner Peach for which we paid $2,500 in cash, new, hardiest of | S,
alllarge, yellow free stone, with beautiful red cheek; ripens after late
Crawford ; 20 years test; every tree Sse Marked. 4 Quality equal
to New Prolific. ’
New Prolific Peach, Ripens between Early and Late Grantee 2 ea
s weeks earlier than “‘Banner’’; large yellow. Well known as a leading eae
% market Peach; rich,, luscious, immense bearer, good shipper, sold
‘ under trade mark.

. Brusseler Braune Cherry, New, Latest of all Cherries. Morello Bese

type, very hardy, wonderfully productive, dark red, large, handsome, -* Oe

most puie of all. ‘‘Trade Marked.’’ a
Winter Banana Apple, the King of Market Apples, Richest flavored fruit ever intro- oa ;

- duced; large, smooth, very beautiful, red cheeked, bears large crops in two years. Hardy

‘for cold climates. Every tree “Drade Marked.’’ |
a Conrath Raspberry. Finest blackberry grown. Large size, de- ‘
licious flayor, vigorous grower, ripens 10 age earlier than Gregg :
and is the best market berry grown.
Cream Beauty Rose, In this we have the long sought hardy

cream yellow rose; exquisitely tea scented, perpetual bloomer. , and

a climber. The most valuable acquisition of recent -years in the

rose line.

A Full Line of all kinds of Choice Fruits and Ornamental Trees, Vines and Shrubs. ,
Send 10 cents for our Elegant Ilustrated Catalogue, containing over 100 Colored a
Illustrations. _. Address om
GREENING BROS., Monroe, Mich. —_
at EE H
: | INDEX. 3
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Ashes t6n Orchard 23553 se 2 NDS FE | Practical hints

toe TACEICA THES ee ee Ie ne I mes
Best stock to plant. #5. ee 3. Plowing under PTeCen Crops. i. 2 Si Y piece Be:
Borers, how to keep out... .--22-2 222-22" 8 | Pruning tools, how to tse______________ 3. ae
Crown Pritsnge 54 ar Pp ree 4 Pruning orchards, when to____________- Saae> i
Cultivation of-Orchard_.__._._.-___--_-- 7. Pruning orchards, how to_____.______ 8 to 11 i
Crops to grow inan Orchard___-_-____-- To) REINS PrANe VAMES oso eee 11 Be:
California tree: wash. 2 40. S82 ee Figs} ARATE © RA Peay Cadk Viepas da Sars = Se ee 11 + Gee
Distances for planting ____--_---_-.---- 3 Root Pruning-.-_-_-- Nl Aen I Rea A Ti an 4 ‘
Fruit Growing, chapter on_-__-_-____-_-- vf AK CSOM ike para One Se SMP ne ees oe 2
Healing: in trees: = * + Ses See ee Di | owiiead Erite are Of ee eon Ss 11 to 12
Healing bruised trees_______.___-__- ---- 8 Selecting a site for an orchard_________- 3
How to make trees bear_____________- <i. 5) Stakmg-out. the oreward so 2 5 G0 a 4
Instructions for planting-~-_- ace jatanee 4 Strawberries, care of_.____- Af ee eae 12
Implements to use_-______- ae nae 74° Spraying, chapter on_- 2-0 oie 2 «--16-17
Manutring orchard =s--. i 2. 2S | Spraying formulas: —" foe te 16
Marketing Fruit, chapter on___________- 12735 Phiviniines sare eo oe ee 8
Number of trees to an acre__-_/..-+22_: 4 Transplanting, instructions for______. 4 to 6
North American Horticulturist___-____- 8 Transplanting, chapter on_________._. 2 to6
Orolhard. Care Of os). ee eA oe ee 8 toltc-Varties, tO plant- (soo 2s Sr es 3
Planting square: Voce ee 2s hae ee tat. Vane vatas Cate (Oboe See 10= 05353
Planting Beatd = 270 2 ise, Via 82) Washing orchard trees: 22.2. a ee 7.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1899, in the office of the Librarian of Congres, ata. +s “

Washington, D. C., by Charles E. Greening, Monroe, Mich.

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. © 4

BLOCK OF TWO YEAR OLD WHOLE ROOT BRUSSELER BRAUNE CHERRY.
The Latest Rioening Cherry in Cultivation.

S

* To Our Patrons and the Public:

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We are almost daily besieged with questions relating to Planting, Pruning, Cultivation,.
Soil, Spraying, Gathering, Marketing, etc.. of orchards and fruits. Inquiries have been
constantly increasing from year to year in the progress of our business until, finally, we
are brought face to face with the problem of preparing a work which would cover all of the
questions usually asked. To supply this information in a concise and convenient form, the
author has prepared this pamphlet, entitled ‘*@REENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE,’’
believing that it will fill a want which has been felt for many years, and trusting that the
matter contained in its pages will bring increased profits to those engaged in fruit growing,
and joy and pleasure to all who are interested in the progress of horticulture. The infor-
mation herein contained is gathered from a life-long experience in nursery work and fruit
growing, and the author has also been guided by the valuable information gained while on
the lecture platform, addressing horticulturists, in fourteen different states. It contains
facts, not theories. It is written in the plainest of language, so that any person of ordinary
intelligence can read and understand it. It treats of the subject from the time of planting
up to the time the fruit passes into the hands of the consumer on the markets, and may be
referred to with the utmost confidence. We believe that no apology is due for the use of so
acme haan which are not only very beautiful, but which also furnish material for care-

ul study.

FOR THE OVERWORKED BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL MAN, for people living
in crowded cities, and for all who need nature’s remedies to build up a broken down consti-
tution, nothing offers more real health-giving enjoyment, recreation and fun than a country
home, lined and dotted with beautiful trees and shrubbery; an orchard or a garden of
choice fruits—the food of God’s own giving—the free use of ripe, fresh fruits; a stroll out
in the open air among the trees, where the wine is nature’s purest nectar; where nature’s
alternatives and sedatives are abundantly supplied by a beneficent mother. (‘To those, this
book will be a welcome guest in its handy and condensed form.

FOR FRUIT GROWERS AND FARMERS this book will lead the way to success in
fruit growing, and spare them much worry when in need of advice. It will save them
many costly experiments, and will help to increase their profits. The latest methods and
practical ideas are brought out without restraint; many practical and useful hints are pre-
sented, boiled down to occupy the least possible space, for busy people to read.

GREENING BROS.,

MONROE, MICH.

2 GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

GREENING BROS.’ FAMOUS MEETING OF HORTICULTURISTS.
Photograph of the Company Taken After a Tour Through the Nursery Crounds.

A gathering of over 300 leading fruit growers, prominent horticulturists, and repre-
sentatives of the press, who came to inspect our stock and look over our grounds.

After inspecting the nursery the party returned to the office, where alunch had been
prepared, and immediately afterwards an impromptu meeting was called, the band played,
and speeches were made. It was while the guests were thus assembled that the photo
was taken. The speakers all had a good word for Greening Bros.’ stock. One enthusias-
tic grower said: ‘‘ The half has not been told me. If I were to plant 500 acres I would buy
every tree from Greening Bros.’’ Another expressed himself—‘‘ May Greening Brothers
live forever, and may we never die.’’ Another one said: ‘‘I have visited many nurseries,
but the stock of trees I have seen today excels in all respects any that I have ever seen.
This firm deserves success and is getting it.”’

A representative of a newspaper published in Essex County, Canada, wrote :—

“Tt will pay any man who wants first-class trees to visit this nursery. One could not help being
struck with the uniform size and shape of the trees. No unsightly knots, no dwarfed or crooked trees,
no diseased plants are seen, and our ideas of what a first-class tree should look like were considerably
changed, as we compared their trees with those we have been in the habit of purchasing. Peach trees
of only four months’ growth stand six feet high. They seem unable to grow stunted, deformed, gnarled
and twisted little trees like those imposed on the people of Essex County last spring, from Eastern nur-
series.”

ie

a a

PART ONE.

hapter on Cransplanting,

Soil Culture, Pruning, Etc.

PREPARATION OF SOIL BEFORE PLANTINC.

In heavy or gravelly soil a green crop turned under, such as peas, corn, buckwheat, or
crimson clover, will be found of inestimable benefit. Soils of sandy nature are improved
best by the application of stable manure, which should be applied freely and turned
under before planting. Soils rich in plant food, such as new land, old meadows or pasture
lands. require little if any manure at planting time; such lands should if possible, be
planted to hoed crops the year before. The orchard being planted is for a lifetime; care in
preparing the soil and selecting a piece of land adapted for the purpose should not be over-
looked. It is necessary to work up the ground, especially heavy soil, good and deep before
planting. Ifina yard where a plow cannot be used, have the ground spaded deep for sey-
eral feet around, and mix in with the soil some thoroughly rotted manure. Drainage on

‘wet, heavy soils is necessary; deep plowing and subsoiling is also very essential.

“Love thy neighbor as thyself;” persuade him to set out trees,

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. 3

SELECTING A SITE FOR AN
ORCHARD.

In the matter of selecting a site for
either one or different kinds of fruit, the
question of soil and location is of great
importance. A location having good
surface and air drainage is in most in-
stances preferable to levellands. Under-
drainage on level lands makes the soil
loose, fertile and warm. Mistakes are
often made by planting on soil too flat,
low and cold. One needs to study cli-
mate and elevation as well as soils. We
have frequently met with some great sur-
prises on soils which we considered un-
desirable for certain kinds of fruit.
Much depends upon the chemical and
physical condition of the soil, also ele-
vation and climate. Soils range from
heavy, damp clay to fine drifting sand
with little fertility in it, Hither extreme
is undesirable. Certain fruits, such as
pears, will succeed in quite heavy soils,
whiie peaches, plums, quinces and cher-
ries will succeed best in soils of a loamy,
sandy or gravelly nature. Certain varie-
ties of peaches will produce good crops of
choice fruit even on light, sandy soil that
would not grow any other crop with suc-
cess. A good deal depends upon condi-
tions which should be carefully studied
by the planter.

VARIETIES TO PLANT.

The selection of varieties is very im-
portant. Mistakes in selecting varieties
have been made by the best and most ex-
perienced fruit growers. It is well to
observe and profit by the experience of
others. With most varieties it is purely
a question of locality and soil. Experience in many things is the best teacher. We must
make use of the experience of others, who have gone over the road and paid the bills for.
such experience. In planting an orchard for market, it is well to consult for advice those
who have knowledge, observing carefully the success and failures of varieties fruiting in
the vicinity. It is also well to consult a reliable nurseryman, and in this connection we
cheerfully offer ourservices. Our extensive Experimental Orchards, and our wide range of
experience and knowledge in growing fruit for market, enable us to give correct advice to
planters. We will answer all questions in this respect honestly and fairly. Planters may
consult us with utmost confidence.

C. DE NANTES PEAR TREE.
Three years old. The most profitable late
ripening pear in cultivation. Photographed
from orchard. Our trees have wonderful
beariug qualities.

THE BEST STOCK TO PLANT.

The best stock to plant, irrespective of climate and location, is such as is grown in a
cool, temperate and healthy climate. Take Michigan for instance. No disease or injurious
scale insect has had its origin here. It is generally conceded by leading entomologists
that the San Jose scale cannot live north of latitude 42°. Trees grown in this climate are
hardier and better adapted for transplanting than those grown in milder climates, and will
make lasting and profitable orchards.

DISTANCES FOR PLANTINC.

Apples, 30 to 35 feet apart. hr 0 (ts Oe Na 8 ft. apart.
Pears, Stand. 16 to 20 feet apart. Gooseberries______- 4 to 6 feet apart.
= oo Dwarfi2.“ 16 * es OO ha aor ane 4,t0. 6° §* rs
Cherries ____- 1G? S20 *% sa Raspberries, Red___2x7 nk Uy

i Se st sie 1a A bat) Behe . Raspberries, Black,3x7 ‘ <
Peaener. So. - 16°. 20: ** 4 Blackberries ______-_ Bp fash o He
Gtitices_* -.. . pW yada | 5 ida ?, Strawberries _______ ) oa ee 14
PERYICOLS — 25 | 1G “3

Fortune will smile on him who plants largely of the Brusseler Braune Cherry.

4 GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

NUMBER OF TREES AND
PLANTS TO AN ACRE.

At. 4deet apart cach way 7? 2723
ee 5 “é e- se OS 2) eee 1742
“é 6 sé ‘6 ce fOe Soo 5 een 1210
66 8 6é a3 sé SOF LE 681
66 10 “ec sé 66 Ber er Giver Uae 435
““ 1 > ce 6c“ Ae. AAS Pee 302
sé 16 ce ‘ sé OES tii aes 170
‘* 18 cc 66 sé CA ow pee 134
sé 20 sé se “es OO} Si) ae eed 109
se 25 ee se 6é ON Peed 27) a Nn 70
¢é 30 te Lad ad Si: hae A eee eee 50
a3 33 6s “é bc > ie WR heey 40

INSTRUCTIONS FOR TRANS-

PLANTINC.,.

Immediately after receiving your trees
or plants from the nursery, moisten thor-
oughly and wrap or cover to prevent dry-
ing out, after which take them home at
once, and heel in without delay. Cover
all the roots good and deep, and moisten
the soil if necessary. Be sure to keep
the stock moist all the time until planted.

ROOT PRUNING BEFORE
PLANTINC.

The roots of all kinds of trees, grapes,
gooseberries and currants should be
carefully pruned before planting. For

Nee AY mARLE: SFR See this purpose use a sharp knife, and cut
AY beautiful, hardy shade tree. “Very ofi all the ends, also broken and bruised
desirable for parks, avenues or yards. roots, smoothly from the under side. The

wounds thus made will callous over very soon and throw out jstrong roots, making the tree
vigorous and lasting. :

CROWN PRUNINC.

The work of pruning the tops of trees may be done either before or after planting. If
done after planting, care should be exercised not to loosen the trees in the ground. We
advise top pruning with a pruning shear On grapes and small fruits after planting.

Pruning Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry.—Prune off all branches except the upper
three or four; these cut back to spurs about six inches in length. Good judgment is neces-
sary in selecting branches for the crown, such as will form an evenly-balanced head.

Pruning Peach Trees.—Cut back the entire top to three feet from the ground after being
planted ; prune off all branches, leaving four or five spurs about two inches long at the top.
In other words, trim to a straight whip with a few spurs at the top two inches long. Where
no branches are found at the top after heading in, trim to,a straight whip. Peach trees of
smaller grades should be headed a few inches lower.

THE PLANTING SQUARE.

A wooden square‘tis made out of fence boards
eight feet long, dressed and perfectly straight.
They are nailed so as to form a true rectangle,
which can be done by using a common carpenter’s
square. In platting an orchard always begin on
‘a square, and the device here illustrated will be
‘found excellent. By sighting across the field over
the stakes on the planting square a per-
fect_ square of the orchard_is obtained.

STAKINC, OUT3 THE
ORCHARD.

After the ground has been squarediup
and stake placed at each corner of the

ground to be planted, stretch a strong wire (No. 8) from stake to stake, staking the distances

Sound Money and the Winter Banana Apple_Go Hand in Hand.

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. S.

the trees are to be planted along the wire;
and proceed in this way until you get
around the field. Use wire instead of a
rope line, and have a rim soldered around
the wire at the exact distance you desire
to plant the trees apart, all along the
wire, then stretch the wire with the rows,
and drive a stake exactly at each rim on
the wire; after you have completed the
staking out of your orchard in this man-
ner you will find it to be straight every
way.

HEELINC IN BEFORE
PLANTINC.

Dig a trench 15 to18 inches deep, loosen
the lower band of bundle, wet the trees
thoroughly, place them into the trench
and cover carefully, pressing the ground
down with the foot. Trees which are
received in the fall for spring planting
should be heeled in during the winter 18
inches deep, placing the trees at an angle
of 45 degrees, opening up the bundles
and being careful to fill in the soil among
the roots. The trees thus heeled in should
be well banked up over winter and planted
out early in the spring. For heeling in
over winter select a place where water will
not stand, away from buildings and
meadows, out in the open field, where
miice will not injure them. Heeling in
over winter applies to tender trees and
plants, especially peach trees. At least
two thirds of the bodies should be cover-

ed. Many leading fruit growers recom- BURBANK PLUM TREES.
mend fall shipment, and heeling in over In Nursery, one year’s growth, on
winter; the advantage claimed is in hay- Myrobolan, plum root. Beat them if
ing the stock for very early spring plant- _ you can.
ing.

Frg. 1. THE PLANTINC BOARD.
Sah This is a board five or six inches wide and about five

4 rae erie |
G GY > feet long, notched as shown on illustration. It is used
Yj GY in digging holes, so that the stake may be placed exactly
YY where it stood before digging the hole. Before digging

hole place planting board with middle notch against

the stake, and drive small stakes in end notches as

shown in Fig. 1. Next remove board and dig the hole,

Fig.d. leaving end stakes in place, Fig.2. After the hole is
; completed replace the board in two end stakes and drive

center stake through center notch, then remove board

VY and end stakes, leaving the stake in the hole as showh
in Fig. 3. The idea of this device is to get the stake
Ve exactly to the place where it stood before digging the

hole. In planting, set trees tight against the stake, and
always on the same side of the stake throughout the
field, and you will find your orchard to be perfectly
straight in every direction.

4 GH I PLANTING THE TREES.
{ i eZ When the soil is well prepared, a hole should be dug
tt large enough to admit the roots in their natural posi-
Wy YY tion, say two feet square and twenty inches deep. The
earth to fill in and about the roots should be well pul-
verized; then fill the hole with loose earth enough to
bring the tree about an inch lower than it stood in the nursery; place the tree in position,
then fill in fine, mellow soil between and around the roots with the hand, arranging all the
roots in their natural position, and packing the soil carefully around them. Fill to the top
and press down the earth around the tree with the foot; throw a bucket of water around

each tree to settle the ground, and scatter a little soil on top to prevent baking. Dwarf
Pear should be planted four or five inches deeper than they stood in the nursery.

Wt

———_ |

Avoid remorse in old age by planting an orchard now.

6 GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

DWARF PEAR. ALTHEAS,
One year old. A wonderful growth A beautiful shrub that blooms in
in one season. Photographs don’t lie; great profusion late in the fall.
some of these trees stood six feet Nearly all shades of colors can bg
high. supplied.

PLANTING CRAPE VINES.

Plant 8x8 feet apart for trellis and 6x8 feet for stake culture. Dig holes same as for
trees. Place the vine in the hole so that the first two buds next to the stem will come ona
level with the surface; spread the roots in their natural spreading position, fill in the earth
over the first layer of roots and press down the soil firmly with the foot; then spread the
second layer of roots, fill in the balance of the hole and press gently with foot. After
planting trim the vine back totwo buds. A strong stake four feet long should be driven
in at each yine to support the canes the first two years. |

PLANTING SMALL FRUITS.

The soil should be mellow and rich. Plant Red Raspberries 2x7 feet apart; Black
Raspberries, Blackberries, Dewberries, 3x7 feet apart. Conrath and Columbian Raspber-
ries, on account of their vigor of growth, should be planted 4x8 feet apart; Currants and
Gooseberries, 4x6 feet apart; Strawberries for field culture 1x4 feet, and for garden 1x2 feet
apart. Plant small fruits about one inch deeper than they stood in the nursery, except
strawberries, which should be planted so as to leave the crown even with the surface—too
deep planting would smother the plant. Spread the roots in planting small fruits as much
as possible, and press the earth over the roots firmly but gently. If planted in the fall,
cover with coarse manure to prevent the plants being heaved out during the winter. After
planting cut back the tops to four to five inches from the ground.

PLANTING ORNAMENTAL TREES.

Plant same as fruit trees, except that larger holes should be dug to accommodate the
roots. The ground should be pressed down firmly over the roots with the foot. Two-thirds
of the tops should be cut off on all ornamental trees, except Cut-leaved Birch and Horse
Chestnuts, which should not be headed in. Care should be taken to prune the tops so that
the trees will make a well balanced and uniform top. The forming of the crown is regu-
lated entirely by the pruning. On some kinds of trees it may be advisable to tie to a strong
stake to hold the tree firmly to its place. Wrap Maples with building paper four or five
feet from the ground up to keep out borers. Irrigate in dry seasons.

PLANTING AND PRUNINC SHRUBBERY AND ROSES.

Make the soil rich by applying well rotted barnyard manure. which should be worked
in with the soil. Trim off all the ends of roots; plant shrubbery two inches and Roses.
four inches deeper than they stood in the nursery, pressing the ground firmly over the
roots. Cut back tops on Roses leaving four inches above ground. On shrubbery trim up
lower branches so as to form a well balanced head and cut back top two-thirds. All sprouts
growing out of the ground on roses should be removed as soon as discovered, and should be.
cut close to the stalk so as to prevent further sprouting. Where this is overlooked you will
generally find that the wild root will smother the grafted part of the rose plant, and you
will get a big growth of wild stock but no flowers. Cover Roses during the winter with
leaves or straw. Cut back hardy Hydrangeas severely each yea1 ; other shrubbery trim out
the old wood and head in a trifle each year.

EVERCREENS.

Soak the ground thoroughly after planting, and apply a thick covering of rotted ma-

nure over the surface for several feet around the tree to retain the moisture in the soil.

Shade the trees with cloth, burlap or paper to prevent the hot sun from striking the tree
for the first two or three weeks, or until the tree starts to grow.

We have a hardy, tea-scented, climbing, perpetual-blooming cream rose. We have
named it “Cream Beauty.”

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. a

Picea pCR teres 2 WR. i,

- TULIPS, (Greening Park.) HYACINTHS. (Greening Park.)

Sectional views of GREENING PARK in early spring. Beautiful
Hyacinths with delightful fragrance, queenly, gorgeous Tulips in profusion.
Tom Thumb, Arbor Vitae, Evergreens in the background, trimmed in ball
shape; highly ornamental and very desirable for lawn or park.

PART TWO. :

Chapter on Fruit Growing.

CSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSISSSS
PRACTICAL HINTS.

Cultivation. Make it a point to cultivate your orchards at given times, just the
same as you do your corn, potato or root crops. If you do not make up your mind to do this
better not plant any trees. Cultivate to drive the tree as hard as possible the first years.
After the first year avoid cultivating deep. Plow shallow in an orchard; if you turn up
roots it will result in injury. Keep free from weeds and animals.

Crops to grow in an orchard; What and when. Hoed farm crops, such as corn,
beans, potatoes, tobacco, etc , may be grown the first two years in a peach orchard; the
first three years in a plum and cherry orchard; the first three or four years in a pear and
quince orchard, and the first five or six years in an apple orchard; winter banana apple
orchard the first three years on account of early and abundant bearing. Orchards should
not be seeded down to grass. As cropping the land exhausts the plant food in the soil, ex-
ceptions should be made to the above rule where the soil is in poor physical condition when
the soil should be improved by keeping out all farm crops and applying the proper fertilizer.
Keep out a!l farm crops from bearing orchards.

Implements. A disc or spring tooth harrow seems to be about the best all around im-
plement to use during the dry summer season, especially in light soil, A man with
harrow and team can cover a large space in a day, and keep down all the weeds in a large
orchard at a nominal expense if worked at the right time. In heavy soils shallow plowing
in the fall is very essential. Harrow and work crosswise and lengthwise. Use a hoe
around the trees.

Manuring. In bearing orchards liberal manuring broadcast is advised. Barnyard
manure stands in the lead as an all around fertilizer. For peaches, cherries and plums a
fertilizer rich in potash and phosphoric acid is best. Ashes in sandy soils or on lands de-
ficient in potash, are of inestimable value. They should be spread broadcast over the
surface and harrowed in. The value of ashes as a fertilizer for fruit crops is not being
sufficiently appreciated; indeed, they are highly recommended by such authorities as Prof.
Bailey, and we notice that all fruit growers using them usually grow the finest fruit.
F very bushel of ashes should be saved and kept in a dry place for future use. Plowing
under green crops, leguminous plants such as crimson clover, are excellent for recuperating
bearing orchards. Sow during August, work in with harrow, and turn under the crop the
following season when in bloom.

Wash the trees every spring with weak lye or soap suds. The best tree wash which
can be applied to trees is composed in the following formula:

The California Tree Wash. Slake eight pounds of fresh lime with hot water, and thin
with water so that it can be stirred nicely; add two pounds of sulphur, mixing thoroughly ;
take five ounces of sulphuric acid and dilute it with two-thirds water; mix the whole so
as to make a thick. heavy whitewash. Apply to the body and large branches with a brush.

po PART TWO. ee oe
i
&

Fruit is Nature’s medicine; it will cure all ills except laziness.

8 : GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

Keep Out the Borers. Fruit trees,
especially peaches, are apt to be troubled
with borers. The best remedy which has
come to our notice is to mound up in the
fall, leaving it until the following July,
then hoe away and if the borer has made
a start dig it out.

Spray your orchards when there is
danger of being injured by insects or

eee diseases. (See spraying, page
16.)

Read the North American Horticul-
turist, published by us, and issued
monthly; the most complete Horticul-
tural adviser in circulation. Send fifty
cents for a year’s subscription.

For Healing Bruised Trees. ‘Take
clay soil three parts and one part of fresh
cow dung, mix thoroughly to a paste;
then carve the edges of the wound witha
sharp knife, so as to leave a smooth edge
all around the wound. Apply the mixture
about one inch thick over the wound, and
bandage with cloth torn into strips.

Read about our new, late ripening
peach, the ‘‘ Banner ”’ offered for the first
time, also the other specialties of highest
order, the Winter Banana apple, New
Prolific peach, Wickson plum, Brusseler
Bratune cherry, the latest and largest of
all cherries in cultivation, etc.

Perhaps the finest block of plum trees ever grown Thinning. An important operation
in America. The growing of such wonderful trees witha good fruit crop is to thin it. It
accounts in a great measure for the wonderful growth must be done at the right time however
of our nurseries. to insure.good results. It should be done

on peaches and plums before the seed for-
mation has progressed very far. Thinning increases the size of the fruit remaining, and
increases the profits every time it is done right. It requires some nerve to do thinning
properly. Try it on a row of trees in your orchard and report results to us.

To Make Trees Bear. To promote fruitfulness on trees which have attained bearing
size and which show no inclination of beginning to bear the following method will be
found effectual andsafe. Take a sharp knife and make three circles two feet from the
ground around the trunk of the tree, about four inches apart cutting way through the bark.
The interruption caused in the flow of the sap will check the growth of the wood and tend
to the formation of fruit buds for the next season. This should be done in July the season
before.

When to Prune Orchards. From careful observation, and many years of actual ex-
perience we recommend pruning orchards during March. If there isso much to be done
that more time is required, part may be Cone in February.

Pruning Tools, How to Use. Provide yourself with a good pruning saw, a strong,
sharp pruning knife, a large and a small pruning shear, and a suitable ladder. In prun-
ing make your cut so as to leave a smail shoulder below, inclining the cut inwards so as to
come out even above. Many orchards are ruined by cutting the branches too close to the
body below, making a large and ugly wound which seldom heals over. When large
branches are cut off, paint the wound with white lead paint to prevent cracking.

THE APPLE ORCHARD.

Prune every year, Aim to develop and maintain a uniform, well balanced head.
Avoid cutting off large limbs if possible. Prune during March. Note the habits of the
tree ; if spreading in growth confine your pruning more tothe side branches, if pyramidal
in growth, thin the center, so that the sun and air will have free access. Sun makes color;
the richer the color, and larger the size the greater your profits. Don’t prune off too much,
but at the same time don’t be afraid to take off where necessary. After a tree is planted
the head should be trained in the right direction, and balanced so as to be able to carry a
heavy weight of fruit without bending to the ground or breaking. We wish to impress
the reader with the importance of heading in the young apple orchard each year; the
cutting out of all suckers and shoots which might interfere with free circulation of air. It

Flowers are the sweetest things God ever made, and forgot to put a soul
into.—Beecher.

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. 9

also pays to thin the fruit. Fertilize to
keep up the vitality and bearing power
of the tree. A crop of crimson clover or
field peas plowed under occasionally is of
great benefit to the bearing orchard.
Apply ashes whenever they can be ob-
tained. Spray for sound and large fruit.
It pays to plant good varieties. We
recommend the Winter Banana apple as
the finest, best and most profitable
winter apple in cuitivation. It bears very
young, is hardy, very productive, a strong
vigorous grower, and an apple famous
for its high quality, beautiful color and
shape.

THE PEAR ORCHARD.

To produce the ideal tree, pruning the
first few years is the most essential point.
A rule which should be remembered is to
prune trees so far as possible with a
pruning knife or shears The idea is to
form the framework of the tree while
young, or before it begins to bear. The
first few years cut back the leading top
shoots a third or a half of the preceding
year’s growth. Straggly growers like
Clapp’s, Vicar, Nellis, etc., should be
pruned from below so as to keep the
branches off the ground when fruiting ;
at the same time the tops should be
shortened in. With varieties such as C.
de. Nantes, Kieffer, and others ‘of erect

growth, the pruning should be confined
to heading in and thinning the top. BLOCK OF WINTER BANANA APPLE TREES

‘Thinning is strongly advised. (ultivate Containing over 100,000 trees, realdy to
constantly, and fertilize thoroughly. Re- be dug for orchard planting. There can
move all the black and scaly bark on be no disappointment in planting such
the trunk, and large branches, with trees.

a sharp knife. Cut out the black sur-

face bark down to the fresh under bark; don’t overlook, as it will eventually kill the
tree if left on. For market plant the C. de Nantes pear which ripens late and brings
big prices. Dwarf Pears. Plant four to five inches deeper than they stood in the nursery.
Head in same as with Standard Pears, fertilize with stable manure.

THE PLUM ORCHARD.

Feed the bearing plum orchard heavily with ashes and manure. Keep up the growth
and vitality by constant and thorough cultivation. The plum is very likely to overbear,
and it will pay to thin. Shortening in the tops, especially on young, fast growing trees,
should not be overlooked each year, especially with Japan yarieties ;in some instances quite
severely, from one-third to one-half of last year’s growth. Spray for insects; see spraying
page 16. Cut out black knot and burn the affected parts as soon as discovered. We
recommend the Japan varieties for profits, also freedom from insects and diseases. Our
leaders are Wickson, the latest and largest of all Japan varieties, also Burbank.

THE CHERRY ORCHARD.

Use ashes for fertilizer, spreading broadcast over the ground around the tree. Avoid
banking up ashes against the body of the tree, as they will injure the bark and kill the tree.
Remove suckers from trunks; head in some each year while the trees are young, and thin
the tops moderately. Cherries will thrive in places where other trees would fail, and will
bear fine crops under conditions very unfavorable to all other kinds of fruit. They re-
spond, however, to good cultivation and are profitable to a degree, if cared for and sprayed.
Watch the slug which eats the lining off the leaves. Apply slacked lime or dry ashes to
destroy slugs. Weare introducing this season the Brusseler Braune Cherry, originated in
Poland, which we predict will occupy front rank among profitable and fine cherries. It
ripens two weeks later than other sorts now in cultivation, is of Morello type, very hardy,
fruit large, of brownish red, thick meat, small pit.

THE PEACH ORCHARD.

The matter of soil for a peach orchard we find from experience to be of less importance
than we have formerly mentioned. Some great surprises have been sprung on us, since

Responsibility educates the boy; start him with a fruit plantation.

10 GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

writing up our last catalogue, and facts,
though stubborn things, must be taken into
consideration if we desire to be honest in our
views. While we would not advise planting
on heayy clay soil, yet, we find that fine
fruit may be grown on almost any kind of
soil. It is true some varieties prefer a light,
while others seem to succeed best on a
heavier soil, and it is well for those planting
on a large scale to study these things toa
certain extent We would recommend good
cultivation the entire season. Some will
argue that it is wrong to cultivate a peach
orchard after fruiting. We have watched
these things for many years and have come
to the conclusion that this theory is wrong.
The best way is to keep the trees growing

QUINCES. ONE YEAR OLD. all the time during the summer and leave
LOOK LIKE TWO-YEAR OLD, don’t them to ripen up of their own account in the
they? A result of proper soil culture and fall. If the soil is not worked so that the
whole root system. U C? buds ripen in August, a new growth will

often start just before the close of the grow-
ing season, causing the buds to swell, and
new shoots to start, only to be injured by
frost. We condemn summer pruning, ex-
cept to keep off suckers The matter of
pruning is of prime importance in peach
culture. There are so many ideas among
the leading growers about pruning, (some
good, some foolish), that we must draw toa
large extent on our own knowledge in laying
down a method of pruning which should be
followed by our thousands of patrons grow-
ing peaches. <A peculiarity of the top is
that it makes a much greater growth,
under favorable conditions, than the root

HERE LIES THE SECRET. can possibly maintain in full vigor, espec-

e e ially during its first fruiting years. In
ST ee ee Oe a ees aN pruning, the habits and peculiarities of vari-

oe ene Ane BESS —_ Shewe aH eties should be studied, as well as soil and
above illustration. All will be planted location. Peaches uaturally grow an open
a oe head, but in most cases it is necessary to
Pe USES Ie EE Ee ces ani hee thin for an open top, so that sunshine may
good dressing of rich stable manure has reach the fruit, and produce color. The first
been applied. Thus we lay the founda- year after planting be careful to form your
tion for our future crop of trees. Come head in the right proportion and shape.
and see results. ; Prune to secure a body 24 inches from the

ground to the first limb on bearing sized
trees. Prune to three or four main branches the first year and these head in about one-
third of growth. The second and third year head in a little closer and remove small
branches one or two feet up on the large limbs. Aim to build up a strong framework, such
as will carry a heavy crop of fruit. Removesuckers. Prune to umbrella shape, open in the
center. Follow up the heading-in method right along, at first to build up the tree, and
afterwards for the purpose of thinning the fruit, which in most all cases is set much too
heayy. Thinning by hand and before there is much growth of seed is absolutely necessary
when large and fine fruit is desired. Thin so as to keep the fruit two or three inches apart.
Prune during March when tree is dormant. Apply ashes for fertilizer in liberal quantities,
where the soil is deficient in potash; this applies especially to sandy soil. For market
select varieties of good size, fine color, high quality, and above all, hardy sorts and good
shippers; varicties like ‘‘ Banner,’’ and ‘‘ New Prolific,’?’ which will always command the
markets, no matter how plentiful fruit may be. It will pay the reader to study into the
high qualities and market value of these great fruits, and to read the indorsement by
growers and authorities.

THE VINEYARD.

For a vineyard select a good, healthy, strong soil, well drained, and if possible, an ele-
vated location ; if sloping towards the South, so much the better. Run the rows North and
South. Plant eight feet apart each way. Plow deep, or subsoil the ground before planting.
Keep the soil well worked and use barnyard manure and ashes as fertilizer. Remove all
sprouts coming out of the ground on bearing vines. Train your vines on wire trellises. Tie

Stand by the three big “Bs”—The Banana Apple, Brusseler Braune Cherry and
Banner Peach.

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. 11

up the vines at least three times during the
season. Heading in the overhanging
branches on bearing vines to ripen the wood
and fruit, should be done with a sickle or
sharp corncutter about August 15th. Place
the posts for wire trellises 24 feet apart.
Brace the end post securely. Fasten the
wire with staples driven three-fourths the
way in. Posts should be at least 8 feet long
and set 2% feet into the ground. Fasten the
first wire 24 inches, the second 44 inches and
the third 64 inches from the ground. Use
No. 11 wire. Plow shallow up to the vines
in the Fall and away from them in the
Spring, and cultivate thorougly during the
Summer.

CAROLINA POPLAR. TWO YEAR.
A RUBBER NECK is required to stand

THE QUINCE ORCHARD. before:and look up at the tops of our

two-year-old Carolina Poplar. You can
almost see them grow.

Prune in tree form. Remove suckers
and dead branches. ‘Trim in symmetrical
form ; thin out branches moderately in cen-
ter when too crowded. Fertilize with rich
stable manure; cultivate often; thin out
when bearing too freely. _ Select a sandy or
loamy soil.

PRUNING CRAPE VINES.

First Season After Planting.—Cut back
all young wood except two buds, allowing
one of these to grow up,

Second Season.—If the cane has made a
growth of 4 feet or over the first season, cut
down to within 2 feet of the ground, allow-
ing no more than four of the upper buds to
grow; all lower ones should be rubbed off
during May. Incase the vine has made but
a feeble growth, it should be cut down again
to two buds and treated same as the first ACENTS’ DEPARTMENT.
season.

Third Season.—If the vine has made a
strong and healthy growth the two previous
years, two or three of the strongest canes

A HERAP OF FUN.—Our agents fre-
quently furnish amusement, as well as:
plenty of work for us to do, hanidling the

should be left to produce fruit. These canes SHOES | OL PS 1ehG (Giese ye itl Bi eS
should be left about 2 feet long, starting at stated one agent in his weekly report
the first wire or a little below. In case the recently. Another writes: “Sent kata~
growth from the previous year is light, leave lok (catalogue) and algents’ pokitbuk.”
only two canes near the first wire about 12 Fun, indeed!

inches long, all other suckers to be cut off.

After the third year good judgment should be used not to overtax the vine. Usually
from 8 to 10 feet of young bearing wood evenly proportioned all over the vine, either as
canes or spurs is about the right quantity of bearing wood to be left on a good healthy vine.
One or two spurs three buds long should always be left near the first wire to produce new
canes for the coming season. If trained for an arbor, all young shoots should be cut back
to three buds after the fourth year, this produces a dense mass of wood and foilage and.
often an abundance of fruit of fair quality.

CURRANTS AND COOSEBERRIES.

One-third to one-half of the young wood should be cut off each year. Old stems which:
produce but little fruit should be cut out. On bearing plants remove all branches which
hang over and touch the ground. Cultivate shallow and often. Apply rotted manure as
fertilizer. For destroying insects see Spraying.

RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES.

After the young leading shoots have grown out about 20 inches the first season, pinch
back to 12 inches. After the first season all young shoots should be pinched back accord-
ing to their strength, to 18 to 30 inches from the ground. This should be done as soon as
the shoots are high enough, beginning about the middle of May. Each leading cane
should be pinched only once during the summer. All old canes should be cut out in the
fall. Three or four of the best y aes canes should be left in a hill to bear fruit the Cone

The pen is tee an the ads but the Bates. eae is daiotitice sain either.

12 GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

season. All others should be cut close to
the ground. The pruning should be done
during March; this is done by cutting
back all the side branches on the young
canes to spurs 8 to 10 inches long. Red
varieties of Raspberries are not as long
lived as black sorts, and usually require
replanting on new ground after three or
four crops have been taken off. Asandy,
black or gravelly loam is best. To pre-
vent rust on Blackberries use Bordeaux
mixture (See Spraying). Cut out all dis-
eased canes. For profits the Conrath
Raspberry leads them all; it is early,
very large, hardy, etc.

STRAWBERRIES.

The soil for Strawberries should be
made very rich. A sandy or gravelly
loam is best, a black loam next, then
clay. For heavy soils only the most vig-
orous growers should be selected. Straw-
berries are of two classes: the Pistillate
and the Staminate. The Pistillate sorts
are destitute of the stamens and require
a row of Staminate (or perfect flowering)
sorts to be be planted among them at in-
tervals not exceeding a rod; the former,
if properly fertilized with good, perfect
flowering sorts, are more prolific than
those with perfect flowers, or the sorts
known as Staminate. For field culture
set in rows 3% to 4 feet apart, 12 inches
WONDERFUL CROWTH IN ONE SEASON. in row; for garden, 15 inches apart each
way, leaving pathway every third row.

A block of Carolina Poplars, showing To produce extra fine, large fruit keepin
six months’ growth, measuring over ten hills, pinching off all runners as soon as
feet high. they appear. Apply vegetable manure,

such as muck, rotten turf, wood soil, clover
or other green crops turned under, also some ashes. In the fall, after the ground is frozen,
spread a good covering of straw or leaves over the plants for protection during the winter
and remove the covering before growth starts in the Spring. We advise early Spring
planting. The first season all blossoms should be removed, so as to throw the entire vigor
towards producing plants for the next season’s crop. Usually after one crop is taken they
should be plowed up, unless the plants are healthy and appear to be able to bear another
crop. Old patches of Strawberries do not pay.

SEEBEELZLAEERORERRERRABAWAE GOKEAAEREAZALSAARAARALRAGARE

2 a ee a eS eS a

i PART THREE. :
Chapter on Marketing Fruit. :

The subject of Marketing is one of great importance. Many who are successful in
growing fruit for market are often inclined to trust to good luck in disposing of their pro-
ducts. The question of marketing occurs to many about the time th-y are ready to
ship. Few realize the importance of organization and co-operation in marketing fruit.
There haye been some wonderful achievements along this line and some sad disappoint-
ments as well. The success in co-operative marketing seems to rest upon the managing
power of the association, and also depends in great measure upon the honesty and sincerity
of the growers. Few or many may club together and form an organization, appointing
some interested party of business ability to attend to the selling, shipping, etc., allowing
him a small remuneration for his-services. It is a mistake to divide up shipments too
auch. Find a well known and established house in whom you can place your confidence,

x. This book is a complete guide for fruit growers, boiled down for busy people.

GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. 13:

and give them all of the business you can.
Don’t overlook the value of a home market,
if you have one, and don’t refuse a reason-
ably fair cash offer for fruit in the orchard.
Be cautious in shipping to unknown parties.
Treat with mistrust letters of alluring and.
tempting character. ‘Try to keep posted on
fhe market. Read one or more Horticultural
papers; they are the best instructors as to
markets, etc Send us 50 cents for one
year’s subscription for the North American
Horticulturist, a monthly fruit growers’
‘Journal, published by us for the benefit of
patrons. It tells all about markets, fruit

Interior of our mammoth storage and crops, etc. Don’t wait until the last mo-
‘packing cellar. The largest building of ment before deciding what kind of package
its kind in the world. you are to use. It is poor economy to hire

cheap, green, and unreliable help for pick-
ing and packing. Never tolerate rough and
reckless handling of packages containing
fruit. Haul fruit in a spring wagon. Ship
directly after picking, as every moment’s
delay, decreases the value of tender fruits.
Stamp your name and address on every
package; mark on the outside of every pack-
age the variety contained. Avoid shipping
soft fruits, such as berries, so as to reach
the market on Saturday evening or Sunday
morning. Remember that good choice fruit,
well handled, properly graded, and neatly
put up will always sell at good prices. Aim
to grow such fruit, and then put it up in good
‘shape. Ship in refrigerator cars if it is pos-

Ce ede alot i Ceo Bingley SEN sible to obtain them, all kinds of small fruits,
veniently arranged, on modern plan; an including peaches, plums and cherries, es-
USER home for our dumb and faith- pecially for distant points Fruit dealersare
ful friends. not fools, and it is a difficult matter to de-

ceive them by dishonest packing. Establish
for yourself a reputation for good and honest grading and packing. Secure strong and
neat packages of full measure; don’t try to pass off a short measure for afullone. In
very warm weather cut holes in tight packages in which you are shipping fruit, for circu-
lation of air. Give good full measure. Grade closely, pack honestly, pick carefully ; sort
out bruised fruit, and never mix windfall with hand-picked. All fruits should be hand-
picked, and handled to avoid bruising. Windfalls should be marked on the outside of pack-
age, assuch. When packing in barrels, kegs, or boxes, shake gently when half full and
repeat when nearly full, to settle the fruit.

Marketing Apples.— Gather when ripe, before they drop or are blown off by the wind.
Use good judgment as to the right time to gather. If picked too soon, poor flavor and wilt-
ing of the fruit will be the result ; if left on the tree too long they will drop off and cause
loss. Usually, the best time to pick Winter Apples is from September 25th to October 10th.

Place the fruit in barrels or boxes, put them in a cool, dry place, and let them remain
open, standing on end, until ready for shipment ; then empty carefully on straw, hay
or blankets, re-sort and pack all sound fruit in barrels. Another method is to put them in
a pile oytdoors and cover well with straw or cornstalks, letting them remain in this con-
dition until there is danger of them freezing, when they should be barreled up or put on
shelves in a cool cellar. Always begin to pack (also mark the varieties and the grade) on
the end intended for the head.

Use windfalls and culls for drying, cider, jelly or vinegar. For a table apple of rich-=
est quality, for family use or marker, the Winter Banana apple stands at the head.
No fruit grown excels this apple in flavor. It is large in size, perfect in shape, and beau-
tiful beyond description. It bears full grown fruit in two years. The tree is thrifty and
hardy.

Marketing Pears.— Gather before they get too soft. Pick before they get thoroughly
ripe. Early varieties soften quicker than late, and for this reason require quicker hand-
ling. Strong crates either half or full bushel, packed solid, are very appropriate for ship-
ping pears. Make two grades, and don’t ship culls. Plant the best varieties, such as
C. de Nantes, a variety that brings big money, late in the fall and early winter.

Marketing Plnms —Plums are classed with soft fruits and must be handled accordingly.
Many of the European sorts are very poor shippers, and the growers are delighted at the

Banana Apples are better than honey.

14 GREENING’S FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.

advent and introduction of a class of
plums that can safely be shipped to distant
markets, namely, the Japan sorts. We have
kept ‘‘ Burbank ”’ and *‘ Wickson ”’ plums on
shelves in the office for 30 days during very
warm weather. Pick before getting soft.
Ship or sell promptly. Use a strong, stiff
Climax basket, either one-fifth or quarter
bushel. If shipped in large baskets, they
rarely ever reach their destination in good
condition. Unless there is a through freight
line affording quick transportation, we
would advise shipping by express.

Marketing Peaches.—The peach busi-
ness has undergone somewhat of a revyolu-
tion the past 8 or 10 years. Ten years ago
JAPAN IMPERIAL TREE. early sorts were considered the most profit-
able; lately early sorts have not only proven
a failure in market but in many cases it
would have paid the grower to let them rot
on the trees rather than to have shipped
them. We write thus to impress the reader
with the importance of planting varieties
that are firm, and good shippers. Suchas
Banner, New Prolific, Smock, etc. Those
having early soft kinds, should arrange to
dispose of them at home, as they rarely
reach the market in condition to pay baskets
and freight, and generally are the means of
pulling the market down. Rather feed to
the hogs than ship such fruit. Grading and
Packing. We wish that we were able to put
it down in words strong enough so that it
would be fully understood by growers of
peaches, how important it is, that the grad-
ing and packing is done straight and care-
fully; also that the fruit should average
evenly throughout the package in size and

Leaves 24 to 36 inches wide, fan shaped, with
stems 15 to 24inches long. Very rapid grower.
A decided novelty for parks or front yard.

WINDSOR CHERRY. ONE YEAR OLD.

Attention is directed to the _ thrifty quality. How many growers curse the com-
growth, large and healthy foliage; a re- mission merchant, when they are often to
-sult of whole roots, proper culture, rich blame themselves. Few realize that failures
and well tilled soil. in fruit growing are often the result of

crooked or careless packing. The handling,

packing and marketing of fruit has got down
to a science, and the sooner fruit growers find this out the more successful they will be in
marketing their fruit products. Pick carefully by hand. Handle with greatest care, grade
every package, no matter how nice they appear on top. Bring under shelter and grade
from benches or use a peach grader. We wish to add here, that we are manufacturers of
the ‘‘ Ellithorpe’’ peach grader. which we can recommend as a machine which will
grade out three exact sizes of peaches, and which we guarantee will not injure the
fruit in the least. This grader has a capacity of over 500 bushels per day, and with
-one man will do the work of grading that would require 15 to 20 people. The price
of this wonderful machine has been reduced to $25.00. In packing shake the package
-gently from time to time until filled. Ship only two grades, and mark each grade on the
outside of package. Sell or ship immediately after packing. Haul with spring wagon.
Sort out all soft fruit before packing ; throw it away, rather than mix in and spoil the sale
-of good fruit. Go over your trees at least three times, picking the best colored and ripest
each time. Consult dealers and shippers as to kind and size of package to be used, and get
a full supply in time to avoid disappointment and loss. Cover fruit with a cloth to keep off
dust and sun. Sell all you can at home if you can get fair prices, and ship the balance.

Marketing Quinces.—Pick when golden yellow, except Champion, which colors after
‘being picked, and should be picked later than Orange. Handle quinces as carefully as
-peaches, as every bruise will turn brown and spoil the looks of the fruit.

Marketing Grapes.—Gather when fully colored and sweet. Too many grapes are
‘picked too green, and are a great detriment to the market early in the season. Unripe
grapes are injurious to health, and are relished by no one. While picking handle very care-
fully, lay them gently into the basket. Use a strong stiff basket, eight or ten pound. Two
pickings should be made, as those most exposed to the sun will ripen first. Use a spring
wagon for hauling. Grapes may be kept for a considerable length of time after picking,
and even into the winter, if handled with great care,and if kept ina cool cellar or storage,
where the air is not too damp, and the temperature even. :

Cultivate kindness—and a crop of Banner Peaches.

GREENINGS’ FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE. 15

Marketing Berries.— Provide neat crates
and baskets. Do not be tempted to use a
dirty basket or crate, even if given you. In
selling, everything depends on having fine,
large fruit put up in attractive packages.

Give each picker a stand, which can be
made of lath, to hold four quart boxes, and
instruct them, and see to it that they handle
the berries much more carefully than they
do eggs. If you have a good variety and
have cared for them well, there will be very
few small ones. Round up the box well and
turn the stem ends of the top strawberries
down. ‘This gives a showy appearance, and
is much better than topping off with extra
large ones. Customers like to receive a full
quart, and just as good berries at the bottom

NEW PROLIFIC PEAICH ORCHARD of

Johny Clark, |Ohelsea,), (Mich, crop of 1335) as at the top of the basket. For a market
Mare (OO PUSkielSeDEr aie CRONIN E) EES five hundred miles or more distant, berries
y per cent sold as first-class fruit. must be picked in a very firm and partially

green condition and shipped per express.
This condition can only be learned by ex-
perience.

If possible, engage one party to take all
your berries at a uniform price. An enter-
prising groceryman for your home trade,
and areliable commission merchant if you
are obliged to send to a city. You will not.
be likely to make a bargain in adyance with
a commission merchant unless your berries
are well known to him. In a home market
it is a great advantage to be able to deliver
your berries and have them off your hands.
Price paid pickers is two cents for red, one
and one-half cents for black-caps, and fifty

~ cents per bushel for picking Conratn Rasp-
OUR C DE NANTES PEAR ORCH- berries This variety, on account of its

ARD, containing twenty-five acres. A large size and large clusters of fruit, will
source of great profit fill a quart basket quicker than any other

a ; sort. One girl last season actually earned
$2.50 in one day in our Conra‘h patch at fifty centsa bushel. It is not to be wondered
at that the different Agricultural Experiment Stations where it has been tested give it such
high praise. Women are preferred as pickers, then girls, then boys To have picking well
ing requires close supervision. To be successful, your picking must be well done at any
‘cost.

Avoid jolting in carrying berries to market or depot. Have commission men report
condition on arrival, and bring every influence to bear on railway and steamboat men to
have them handle the crates carefully.

Marketing Currants.—Currants are to be picked when fully ripe, and shipped either in
one quart boxes, the same as berries, one-half bushel shallow crates or boxes, or Climax
grape baskets.

Marketing Gooseberries.— Usually, the proper time to pick gooseberries is just before
they begin to ripen, while yet green. On account of their strong and tart taste they are
-very desirable for canning, pies and jelly. They also make one of the finest and most pal-
-atable catsups of any fruit grown; if this is new to you, ‘try it,’’ and you will be sur-
prised. When the fruit is left to ripen on the bushes the berries are very sweet and delic-
ious, and there is occasionally a good demand for ripe berries ; it is always well to find out
from the merchant who handles your gooseberries whether he wishes them green or ripe.
One of the best packages to use in shipping gooseberries is the Climax 12 to 15 pound grape
basket ; one-half bushel crates or boxes are also very desirable. A good way to clean goose-
berries, after being gathered, is torun them through a fanning mill, with cloth over the
sieves; use judgment in applying this method, so as not to bruise the berries. Goose-
berries are classed with hard fruits, and can be shipped long distances.

Winter Banana Apple, The King of [larket Apples, Richest
flavored fruit ever introduced; large. smooth, very beautiful, red
cheeked, bears large crops in two years Hardy for cold climates.
Every tree ‘“Trade Marked.”’

Brusseler Braune Cherry, New, Latest of all Cherries. Morello
type, very hardy, wonderfully productive, dark red, large, handsome,
most profitable of all.

Winter Banana Apple. This book is protected by U. S. Copyright. Don’t Infringe.

16 GREENINGS’ FRUIT GROWERY’ GUIDE.

SS
PART FOUR.

| Chapter on Spraying.

a &

Spraying is to destroy insects, to
ward off fungous disease in its various
forms, to improve the quality of fruit, or
to stimulate the growing functions of
trees; if done at the right time and in
the right way, it is exceedingly profit-
able. The necessity of spraying is re-
cognized by all successful fruit growers
and horticulturists in general through-
out the country. Our treatise would be
incomplete without giving information
on spraying; we accordingly publish a
spraying calendar which contains all
that is necessary to know to successfully
combat the insect pests and fungous dis-
eases which infest orchards, vineyards
and gardens, and damage or destroy fruit
crops.

NOTE.—Get a spraying apparatus of
a size commensurate with the area of
your orchard. In the use of the various
solutions, much care should be given to
their proper strength, and to the purity of
the chemicals. See that the solutions
are kept continuously stirred. Spray late

See ee Eee in the afternoon or in cloudy weather,
from a three-year-old tree. Fruit picked except where noted below. Use pure,
from this tree and laid away in our office clean water. Run the solutions through
on a shelf wrapped in wax paper, Kept ascreen. Mount the apparatus on a cart
80 days in perfect condition. or wagon. Use the celebrated “ Ver-

morell Nozzle.’’ Use a strong hose, of

sufficientlength to spray one or more rows at a time. For large trees use a pole to
- elevate the nozzle up into tree. Write us for low prices on a first class spraying outfit.

SPRAYING FORMULAS.

KEROSENE EMULSION —In making the kerosene emulsion for spraying trees for lice,
be sure to follow the correct method: Dissolve in two quarts of water one quart of soft
soap, or 4% pound of hard soap, by heating to the boiling point. Then add one pint of ker-
osene oil and stir violently for from three to five minutes. This may be done by using a
common force pump and putting the end of the hose back into the mixture again This
mixes the oil permanently, so that it will never separate and it may be diluted easily at
pleasure. This mixture should be diluted to twice its bulk with water or about 14 times as
much water as kerosene. The kerosene emulsion is successful in destroying cattle lice and
sheep ticks, as well as all yarieties of plant lice.

BORDEAUX MIXTURE.—Four pounds of sulphate of copper are dissolved in six
gallons of water ; in another vessel four pounds of fresh lime are slaked in six gallons of
hot water. After the latter solution has cooled, slowly turn it into the other solution and
add twenty-eight gallons of water. This when all is thoroughly mixed and strained, is
ready for use. In straining this mixture reject all the lime sediment, using only the clear
liquid ; strain the whitewash through a coarse gunny sack stretched over the head of a barrel.

COPPER SULPHATE SOLUTION.— Dissolve one pound of copper sulphate in 25 gallon
of water. Do not apply this solution to foliage. It must be used in spring before the buds
break.
FOR ROSE BUGS AND PLANT LICE.—Ouassia chips one pound; boiling water three
gallons. Apply as a spray to rose bushes, and to kill plant lice.

TOBACCO FOR APHIS, PLANT LICE, FLEAS, ETC.— Tobacco one pound; boiling
water three gallons. Strain when cool, and use. Very effective, especially on green plant
lice, on roses and apple trees.

FOR SAN JOSE SCALE.—For Winter Wash. Use two pounds of whale oil soap to
one gallon of. water ; spray or wash while solution is warm. For Summer use when trees
are in foliage. Spray with kerosene emulsion, one part of emulsion to five parts of water.
Several treatments may be necessary to entirely destroy the scale.

Speak kind words and you shali hear kind echos. Plant good fruit and you
shall reap good fruit.

BLOCK OF BANNER PEACH TREES. FOUR MONTHS’ CROWTH.

Attention is directed to the fine and almost complete stand of trees, large, clean,
and healthy foliage, straight and smooth bodies, large and thrifty growth. With such
trees we hope to reaeh the greatest possibilities in the nursery business. Itisonraim ,
to be AECL ha to date’’ in.every ea Try us and see.

PARIS GREEN AND LONDON { PURPLE.—_Never « use stronger than one quarter ee
to 50 gallons of water. Slake thoroughly with hot water two pounds of lime and mix with
the water. Be sure to have the lime well slaked before mixing.

SPRAYING APPLES.—For prevention of apple scab fungus on both leayes and fruit,
spray with Bordeaux mixture before blossoms open. To destroy the aphis or plant lice,
spray with kerosene emulsion before the pests appear. To destroy the codling moth,
canker worm and curculio, spray with Paris green or London purple, 4% pound in 40 or 50
gallons of water, soon after blossoms fall, and again two weeks later, using at the same
time the Bordeaux mixture for the apple scab. To destroy the web worm, spray with Lon-
don purple or Paris green as soon as they appear. This application should be made during
the middle or the day, when the worms are out of their webs feeding on the leaves.

SPRAYING CHERRIES.—For insects, and diseases of the Cherry, spray with the same
materials and dt the same periods as recommended for apples.

SPRAYING PEARS.—The pear slug can easily be destroyed by dusting air slaked lime
over the trees or using Paris green, 4 ounces to 50 gallons of water, as soon as it begins
operations. Pear and Quince leaf blight can be controlled by spraying with Bordeaux
mixture. The codling moth and curculio should be treated the same as recommended for
apple trees.

SPRAYING PLUMS. — Destroy the aphis with kerosene emulsion applied with a fine
spray nozzle. The curculio can be destroyed by spraying with 3 ounces Paris green to 40
gallons of water. First application should be made as soon as blossoms have fallen, and
repeated at intervals of a week or ten days. Four applications should be sufficient. The
addition of Bordeaux mixture to the above applications will increase their efficiency and
help to control black knot, rot and other fungous diseases. Other insect enemies of the
plum will be destroyed by this method, but in all cases be particular to keep the poison and
water constantly stirred. For shot hole fungus, spray with copper sulphate solution,
before buds start in the spring, and with Bordeaux mixture in mid-summer. For slugs use
same as for pear.

SPRAYING PEACHES.—If attacked by the peach aphis, spray with kerosene emulsion.
The plum curculio frequently attacks the peach, in whith case spray with Paris green,
three ounces to 50 gallons of water, adding also two pounds of lime; be sure to keep it well
stirred and use with caution. Neyer use Paris green or London purple on peach trees
unless lime is added. For curl leaf Spray before buds start in the spring with copper sul-
phate solution, apply thoroughly. After buds have startéd spray with Bordeaux mixture,
and repeat again in about ten days. Plant varieties that are léss subject to curl leaf, such
as New Prolific, Banner, etc.

For Grape Rot and Mildew use the Bordeaux Mixture.

SPRAYING CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES.—To destroy the worms spray with
Paris green, one ounce in twelve gallons of water, as soon as the worms appear. For the
second brood use powdered hellebore. To destroy the yellow aphis spray with kerosene
emulsion early in the season. To preyent mildew, use one-half ounce potassium sulphide
to one gallon of water.

The “Cream Beauty” Rose is a constant source of joy.

RNS : aie ata

THE IMPROVEMENT OF A HOME CROUND, ILLUSTRATED.
(Section -of ‘‘ Greening Park,’’ 100 by 150 feet.)

Above is an illustration of a portion of one of our parks, the part shown lying to east
of the residence of C. EK. Greening, a portion of which is seen in the background. This
park was planned and planted for the sole purpose of beautifying the surroundings of a
home. How well we have succeeded in this, we leave for our readers to decide. We know
that it suits us and that visitors express their admiration. The thought occurred to us that
this beautiful little park would be a fit subject for illustration in this catalogue, as it will
likely convey ideas for the improvement and embellishment of a yard, which may prove of
use to our patrons.

To the right of the cut is shown a section of the highway—Greening Avenue—a
macadam roadway, built at our own expense, lined on either side with a double row of
Silver Maples, (fig. 9); bordering the park on three sides, is an Arbor Vitz hedge, (fig. 6)
so pruned and cared for as to present symmetry pleasing to the eye. To the left of the
park, bordering a driveway leading to the residence and to the highway, are two rows of
Norway Maples, terminating, as will be seen, among a thick cluster of trees, consisting of
twelve Norway Maples. (fig. 8), planted in a group,in a square. ‘These, with their compact
heads and large dark green foliage, form a pleasing contrast with the more open and
spreading Box Elders or Ashleaved Maples, (fig. 7). Two umbrella shaped Kilmarnock
Willows, (fig. 1), fill up what would otherwise appear a vacant square. and add grace and

beauty tothe scene. ‘The cute little ball shaped trees, (fig. 3), are Tom Thumb Arbor

Vitz, these border a gravel walk around the centre bed and consist of a group of sixteen
trees pruned in the shape of a ball with short stems about six inches high. The tapering
or pyramidal trees, (fig. 2), are Pyramidal Arbor Vitz, of which there are eight, four on
each side of the centre bed. The large tree with spreading branches, (fig. 11), is a stately
Carolina Poplar, towering far above the nestling cottage, and affording protection against
the scorching rays of the sun, as well as serving to make the scene more complete and beau-
tiful. To the left, (fig. 10), stands a shapely Cutleaved Birch. At the season when the
photograph was taken, the centre bed, some twelve feet in diameter, was filled with stately
Cannas (fig 5), their large glossy foliage and gorgeous flowers of varigated color present-
ing an imposing appearance. Where the Canmas are now, was in the early spring a mass
of gorgeous Tulips; beyond these, nearer the house, was a magnificent bed of Hyac.nths,
(see page 23). Two beds not in sight on the picture, one on either side, are filled with
Geraniums and Coleus in all shades.

The size of this beautiful spot, presenting the combined efforts of both man and nature,
is but 100 feet wide by 150 feetin length. It will be noticed that it contains but few flowers.
We love flowers, but like to see them massed in groups or as a border for a garden, or even
as a banking for the house. Where shade is desired there should be plenty of trees. A well
kept lawn, dotted and lined with trees, shrubs and plants, is always charming. Well kept
gravel walks, such as are shown in the picture, (fig. 4), add grace and beauty.

Dear reader, it does not require a very large yard, nor a great amount of money, to
have all this beauty and pleasure. In these days of hustle and toil, of strenuous effort and
sharp competition, it is refreshing, indeed, to retire at the close of day in the hot summer
mouths, to a place of repose and comfort among the trees and shrubbery, where man is
drawn closer to nature and nature’s God.

Greening Bros.’ “Copyrighted Catalogue” containing over 100 colored illustrations, the most beautiful
ever seen, mailed on receipt of 10 cents in postage. Address Greening Bros., Monroe, Mich,