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NURSERY PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES

Drawings of //os. 2 -3 and 4 in
chart of Peach, and Nos. 3-4 in

chartof Apple,
are enlarged
t to show detail

Peach Seed Selected
for Planting

Peach Seedling wilh fop ‘
cut off a bp verhe bud, 5EEt>

following <$'ter the ^bud
has been placed in
position and

TfNttStS

grow. Seedling A

O ROOT-^-*/

Bud Stick
taken from the
tree of the variety
of fruit wanted

grown ^on seed/ing

Peach Seedi/ngs. one
season's growth with
bud placed in posi/ion
which was done in
August during growth

o/ seed/ it:

Peach bud
in position

The PEACH

Peach tree dug
showing bud top and
seed/ing root, sir months
after top of Seed/ing
has Jbeen cut off. u

Peach tree showing both
seed/ing roots and bud.
trimmed ready to plant in
orchard or permanent place

Seed/ing oneyear
o/d, grown from seed
Trees propaga ted on
seedlings, either fu-
ropean or American
grown. The process
uof budding app/e.
pear, pium and
cherry is the same
as the peach except
that the seed/ing is
p/anted in Nursery
rows instead of
seed, and the bud is
usually grown two
years instead of one.

Apple Scions or
//mbs taken from
apple trees, of
varieties or kinds
wanted graf fed
on seedling
roofs. Scions
taken off when
trees are dormant
in faff of year
after / eaves
have fatten and
wood of same
yearsgrowth.

Splice of tongue
orwhipjtraft.
Many other modes
of grafting, but
fins is the kind
most Nurserymen
use.

The APPLE.

Graft and Pool united
Bark of Scions and
Poof should make
perfect Union.
Grafting is usua/ly
done by a nursery-
man in January and
February and
‘ ‘ ' y \ efor

A . Oneyear o/d
Apple from graft
showing growth of
both fop and roots.

B. Two year o/d
apple from graft
showing Two years
jsrowin of top add
Proofs.

Apple trees can be propagated either on apple seedlings, haws or thorn.
Plum trees can be budded on almost any kind of wild plum stock or peach seedlings.

Myrobolan Plum stock is usually used by Nurserymen.

Cherry, budded on almost any wild cherry stock, but Myhaleb or Mazzard cherry
stock is usually used by Nurserymen.

Pear is budded on French pear seedlings, Kieffer and Japan pear seedlings, but
French pear seedlings is preferred by nurserymen.

Dwarf Pear are propagated on Quince roots.

Dwarf Apple are propagated on Doucin and Paradise stock grown from cuttings.
All fruits can be grafted, but seldom any of them are grafted for nursery growing
except apple.

RETURN TO ?0M0L0«7
S:.CTldN'0^ liOMENCLATR**'

WHAT, WHERE, WHEN

AND

How to Plant

Fruit and Ornamental Trees

Berry Plants, Roses, Shrubs,
Evergreens, Vines and
Perennials

FACTS ON FOUR QUESTIONS THAT
EVERYONE WANTS TO KNOW

FIRST EDITION COPYRIGHT 1913
REVISED SECOND EDITION COPYRIGHT 1914
By E. E. BOHLENDER. Tippecanoe City, (Miami Co.) Ohio

ENDORSED BY

Mr. Frank Miller, State Superintendent of Schools, Columbus, O.
Mr. Peter Bissett, Plant Introducers in charge of foreign plant
distribution, Washington, D. C.

Mr. Lester S. Ivins, Supervisor of Agriculture, Lebanon, O.

State Experimental Stations.

Superintendents and Principals of Schools.

Landscape Gardeners.

Nurserymen, Seedmen, Florists and many others.

HE first thing to do before planting an orchard is to make a
careful selection of the location, whether the product is for
home or commercial purpose. Consider well the slope of the
land, the kind of soil, the drainage and the varieties that are
best adapted to that special locality. The safest way to select
the varieties you wish to plant is to study those that are doing well and are
most profitable, in the immediate vicinity of the proposed orchard.

TRUE ECONOMY It will always be found to be true economy to buy the very best

trees, plants, etc., as to quality, that can be had. They need not
be the largest stock, but stock that is guaranteed to be first class as to quality and free from disease
and injurious insects.

A first-class fruit tree is one that is healthy, well grown, well dug and free from disease and in-
jurious insects. Other things being equal, it is best to select a tree one or two years old. Older trees
may be successfully planted, but the younger ones are more satisfactory, are handled more easily,
suffer less in transplanting and are more profitable in the long run.

For a town lot dwarf fruits are frequently desirable. They require less space than the standard
varieties. If necessary they may be trained on the side of a building or the fence.

Early ordering is to the advantage of the buyer because he can get the varieties ordered.

When sending in an order, always state mode of shipment.

If stock, when packed for shipment does not exceed 100 pounds in weight, it is better to ship by
express, so that the stock need not be out of the ground long. However, if the packing has been well
done they may be shipped by freight with safety.

depends upon the latitude, but in most states the late
fall or early spring, before the foliage appears, is preferable.

t tvt/^ j wyrv It is important when preparing the land, selected as

PREPARI the orchard site, to till deeply and thoroughly. It is

also advantageous, when possible, to prepare the soil late in the preceding autumn.

THE TIME TO PLANT

DIGGING THE HOLE

It is rarely advisable to merely dig holes in the sod to plant
the trees; much better results will be obtained if the whole

area is plowed. Should there be a
hard pan, or hard stratum of earth
or rock underlying the surface soil,
it is best to break it up with a sub-
soil plow, or if possible by dyna-
miting. The holes should be large
enough to accomodate all the roots
when properly spread out and allow
some extra space for their growth.
The tree when planted
should be a little deeper in
the soil than it was in the
nursery row. This can be
told by the color of the
bark.

PRUNING WHEN PLANTED Mu^

Will

depend on the proper treatment of’ trees at the time of
planting. During the digging and the handling of the
tree some of the roots are sure to be bruised or broken.
These must all be trimmed with a sharp knife with a
slant on the under side. It may also be well to trim
out some of the crowding roots.

The top should also be pruned. (That is, trimmed
with sharp knife.) There are some principles which can be
explained, but this is something that can only be explain-
ed by experience. A tree can be trained or molded to a
wonderful extent, and he who prunes intelligently will
surely get good results.

Decide when the trees are planted the height at which
the top or head is to start. Think first, of the best possible
shape and size. For most practical purposes and for most
trees, a low and open head is desirable; low, because it
can be worked over better, and open so the light and air

can reach all the leaves and fruits. A
limb never gets any higher from the
ground than it is when it starts. Some
trees, such as the “Peach” trees, have to
be cut back to a mere switch. With
“Apple” and “Quince” trees, old enough
to be branched, select the limbs wanted
for the framework of the head, and nip
these back to buds, growing in the
direction the branches are to continue.
Always remember never to allow two cut
limbs to grow opposite each other as
this will form a fork so the tree will be
likely to split when heavily loaded with
fruit or when in the path of a windstorm.

PLANT IMMEDIATELY

Never allow the trees to remain at the express office or
depot over night. As soon as they are received, unpack
them, (unless they are frozen in which case allow them to thaw out slowly in a cool cellar), shake out
the packing material, dip the roots in a thin mud, and either “heel them in” or plant at
once. To “heel them in” have a trench
dug deep enough to receive the roots of the
trees and cover with earth, shaking well
around the roots so no air remains around
them to dry them out. This is done just
to keep the trees in good condition until a
suitable time to set them out.

They are dipped in mud so as to moisten
every part — the mud clings to the roots
better than just water. This serves the
same purpose for trees as putting flowers in

water does for them. Showing Method of Heellng-ln Trees.

Plans for Planting Orchard to Good Advantage.

SYSTEM

Distance Apart

No. of Trees per Acre

Permanent

Fillers

Permanent

Permanent
and Fillers

Heaxgonal

30 ft.

15 ft.

226

Square

30 ft.

15 ft.

194

Quincunx

30 (21.2)

15 ft.

194

^ppj^j7 Apple trees should be planted from thirty to forty feet apart, since they feed over
a large area if they have the opportunity. Plenty of room is also needed for spraying,
cultivating, driving around with wagons, etc. Keep the trees far enough away from the boundary
fences, and never plant nearer than forty feet to a thick wood or windbreak.

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate all the roots without bending any of them, and deep
enough to permit the tree to stand slightly deeper than it was in the nursery row. After some of the
fine surface soil has been scattered in the bottom, place the tree which has been previously well dipped
in a thin mud, in the hole; carefully spread out all the roots and cover with a few inches of the top
soil, pressing this firmly around the roots with the feet. If the soil is dry, slowly pour in four or five
quarts of water. Finish filling the hole with soil and tramp down again. It is well to put a mulch
of straw manure around each tree to partially prevent the evaporation of the moisture. The main
point in planting is to take enough time to “do a good job.” It is cheaper in the end to spend plenty
of time in planting than to have to reset because of carelessness in planting. Manure should never
come in contact with the roots of the tree, but put a good supply on top of the ground after the tree
is planted. The rain on this will leach it and properly supply the necessary fertilizer for the tree.

CULTURE orc^ar(^ sh°uld be kept free from grass and weeds,
and no crops should be sown in it except those which

do not exhaust the soil,
and late fall.

Cultivate well in the early part of the summer

If trees of bearing age do not bear fruit, it is well to
prune such trees slightly during July or early in
August. Some of the small limbs may be cut out or the ends of the outer
branches may be trimmed back some by cutting off. This will help the
buds to form for next year’s crop of fruit.

DWARF APPLE

Dwarf apples are especially to be desired for
the city lot where space is limited, since they
may be trained along the fence, or along the side of a building. The same
general principles apply to the planting of Dwarf Apples as to Standards.
Its favorable soil is a strong loam of limestone nature. A deep, strong,
gravelly, clayey loam, or a strong, sandy loam or a gravelly sub-soil, pro-
duces the greatest crops and the highest flavored fruits as well as the longest
lived trees.

Dwarf Apple.

STANDARD PEAR

Will grow on
almost any soil,
but will do best on a high elevation, provided the
subsoil is not too wet. Wherever this is the case
the ground should be thoroughly under-drained.
In very poor soil a heavy top dressing of manure
in the fall will be of advantage. Standard pear
should be planted twenty feet apart each way.

DWARF PEAR

Will thrive on the
same kind of soil and
under the same treatment as the Standard pear.
At the time of planting, and each spring there-
after, they should be thoroughly pruned, shortening
the preceding year’s growth about one-half, aiming
to form a round well proportioned head. Dwarf
pears should be planted from sixteen to eighteen
feet apart.

Dwarf Pear.

Neither Standards nor Dwarfs, should ever be
allowed to ripen on the tree. In order to have
the highest flavored fruits they should be gathered about ten days before ripe, and stored in a cool,
dark place. Winter pears should be picked and stored before the heavy frosts.

In a climate rather cold for the pear or on a cold soil, it is well to plant on a southern slope, but
in the middle states or warmer soils a southern exposure is not as good as colder ones.

FALL AND WINTER PEARS

The soil best adapted to cherries is a light loam or a sandy subsoil, although they
will also do well in any situation that is well drained. Cherry trees are prone to
grow too fast, splitting the bark on trunk or limbs and doing other damage. For this reason and because
the fruit ripens early, cultivation should not continue after the first of June.

Never use much mulch under the trees, nor much if any stable manure. Nitrate of soda or any
fertilizer containing much nitrate is liable to do more harm than good. This, of course, depends upon
the soil. In general, cherries will thrive best when the ground is seeded to grass and kept this way,
except about a foot around each tree. Here the ground should be dug up so the grass will not grow
thick around the trees forming a harbor for mice. They are very apt to gnaw the bark and spoil
the tree.

The less cherry trees are pruned the better for them. It is necessary to cut back the trees at the
start and shape the head while growing. Sour varieties of cherries are free from insects and root
diseases.

CHERRY

PEACHES k°ca*;e a Peac^ orchard on a northern slope, other things being equal. The very
best soil for the peach is a rich, deep, sandy loam; next to this is a strong, mellow
loam, then a light, thin, sandy soil; the poorest being heavy, compact, clay soil.

To obtain the best results from the peach orchard a few points are to be remembered. First,
keep the ground clean and mellow; second, keep the heads low (the trunk should not exceed two to
three feet in height); third, prune early in spring, shortening the shoots of the previous year’s growth.

Cut weak shoots back, about one-half, and strong ones about one-third; but see that there is
left a sufficient supply of fruit buds. Sickly and superfluous branches should be cut out altogether.
The fruit is born on branches of last season’s growth, hence the necessity of keeping up a good supply
of vigorous annual shoots all over the tree.

Peaches should be planted from sixteen to eighteen feet apart in the row. If a heavy mulch is
placed about the trees after the ground is frozen, it will retard them in the early spring and often
insure a crop of peaches.

Peaches must be cultivated.
The soil must receive such treatment
as will enable it to provide enough
moisture, sufficient available plant
food, and earth fine enough to supply
food for the roots. The time to
begin cultivating is a year or two
before the trees are planted. All
that has been said about apple trees
will apply to peach trees. Bearing
orchards should not be plowed in the
spring, until after the blossoms have
dropped.

Well Cultivated Peach Orchard.

PLUMS

Are found to be more vigorous, healthy and productive in a clay loam, or heavy loam,

than in a light soil, although the Japanese varieties thrive on lighter soils than would
be required by the other species.

The work to be done on a plum orchard is much
the same as with the cherry, peach or apple. All
plums must be pruned, though some kinds require
more pruning than others. Nearly all kinds require
tip pinching. Fruit is born on wood two or more
years old. Keep the head open so the light can get
in, and see that the bearing wood is cut back far
enough, so that after a reasonable amount of trim-
ming is done, it will prevent the trees from breaking
with their load of fruit.

The worst enemy of the plum is the curculio. It
can only be exterminated by bumping the tree and
killing it when it falls on the canvas which has
previously been spread under the tree.

Tip Pruning In Summer.

QUINCES

Quince trees will grow well in almost anjr soil, but succeed best in a heavy,
clay loam. The average hillside or top is too dry for best results. Under-
drain a good, damp soil and it will grow fine quinces, both trees and fruit. The roots lie close to the
surface, so do not cultivate deeply.

Plant ten to twelve feet apart, and prune so as to have short trunks and round, shapely, well-
branched heads. Fruit is born on shoots of the same year’s growth, which grow from wood at least
two years old and pruned accordingly.

GRAPES

Are grown in all parts
of the world, north
and south, and seem to thrive equally as
well in one place as another. The kind
of soil makes little difference.

Before planting is done the ground
should be worked even more thoroughly
and deeply than for a tree. Plow the
land and use dynamite to dig the holes

Planting Grape Vine.

(if convenient). Have a clearance inside the hole of at least twenty inches. Roots should be laid

down and spread out — don’t plant deeper than from eight to
ten inches. “After-cultivation” should be complete and con-
tinuous, stopping each year only in time for the wood and
fruit to ripen early in the fall.

The pruning of grape vines needs to be studied carefully
to accomplish good results. Grapes are born on new wood
and these shoots spring from buds or wood of last year’s
growth.

When a new vine which has grown one summer is started,
all the shoots should be cut off during the next winter. Cut
off all branches except three or four, and cut these back to
two or three buds each, because each bud will average two
branches. This principle holds good with any vine, no matter
how old it is.

Grape Before Pruning for Planting.

STRAWBERRY PLANTING

Too Deep. Too Shallow. Too Cramped. Right Way.

Will do well on almost any soil, but the richer the land the better
the berries. The essential points are to have the soil fine and
loose. Strawberries are naturally shallow-rooted plants and must be encouraged continually to send

STRAWBERRIES

their roots deeper in order to be sure of a supply of moisture and to feed in a soil of even temperature.
See that no soil is allowed to remain in the crown of the plant.

Strawberries for garden culture should be planted one foot apart in the row, with rows three
feet apart. Spring is the proper time to plant. Mulching strawberries is done to keep the soil
moist and cool in summer, to protect the berries from mud and dirt when ripe, and to protect
the plants in winter. The winter protection need not be put on until after the ground freezes.

Strawberry flowers may be either perfect or imperfect and the nature of the flower is character-
istic of the variety. In some kinds the flower is perfect, that is, it has both pistils and stamens, so is
self-fertile. In others it is pistilate, producing no pollen, and requiring a pollen bearing variety to
pollinate it. The perfect flowered varieties differ greatly in the amount of pollen they produce.
Some as the Crescent and the Glen Mary, bear so few stamens that they are practically pistillate
or sterile. Any variety will fertilize any other variety if it bears sufficient pollen and if the two kinds
bloom at the same time. When planting pistillate varieties, every third row should be a pollen bearing
kind.

CURRANTS

Planted in the garden should be four feet apart and may be mulched with
sawdust. The currant is not particular as to the kind of soil, but the richer
the soil the larger the berries. The same general instructions for planting trees will apply to currants.

Pruning is simple but important. Fruit is borne on both young and
old wood, but the best is at the base of one-year-old shoots. The younger
the wood, the finer the berries, but a fair supply of old wood must be left
to insure productiveness. From three to five stems is advisable and these
should be frequently renewed. No wood over three years old should be
allowed to remain.

Currant bushes may be kept in bearing for many years with good
care, liberal feeding and the continuous renewing of the wood.

This pruning may be done in October or November, or just before the
growth commences in the spring.

GOOSEBERRIES -

Require about the same treatment as currants, except the mulch
should be of coal ashes instead of sawdust.

RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES Req“‘re ab°ut tbe treat‘

ment. A deep, moist loam is

generally considered best for the raspberry, yet the plants do well on a light, or even sandy loam, and
on such soils the fruit will ripen some days earlier. The first summer only two or three canes should
be allowed to grow from the root. In midsummer when the canes
have reached a height of about two feet, the top should be pinched
off with the thumb and finger, as this will cause the canes to throw
out laterals.

The bushes may be trimmed in the fall, all the surplus suckers
and old fruit canes taken out, and the suckers that are left for the
next year’s crop, cut back within two and a half feet of the ground.

This trimming out of old suckers, etc., should be repeated year
after year. Mulching is a great advantage to both raspberries and
blackberries.

Firming Dirt Around Root.

ASPARAGUS

Is easily grown. A row 75
to 100 feet long, or its
equivalent, will supply a small family with all the
shoots it needs, and as the plantation is a permanent
one, it should be placed where it will not be in the
way when the rest of the garden is plowed.

For success, the soil in which asparagus roots
are planted should be warm and well drained, yet
moist and rich. Set the r'« trenches six to

ten inches deep and cover with only a few inches of
soil. As the plants grow the soil can be levelled in.
The ground should be thoroughly cultivated all sum-
mer and until late fall, when a heavy mulch of manure
should be given. The food in the manure will leach
into the soil all winter, and in the spring the rest can be worked into the ground. Cut tops off before
seeds begin to ripen.

Asparagv« may be had any time during the winter if strong
four-year-old roots are dug in the fall and stored in a cold place
until wanted. They are then covered with a few inches of
soil in a hotbed or greenhouse and kept very warm. In two
weeks the shoots will be several inches long and cuttings may
be made for a month.

Asparagus Root Spread Out Ready to Plant.

RHUBARB

Thrives in a deep, rich soil, but it is
such a strong, vigorous growing plant
that it will do fairly well almost anywhere. Set the roots so
that the crowns will be about an inch below the surface. It
is a gross feeder, and the more manure supplied the larger and
finer the yield.

ORNAMENTAL SHADE TREES.

LANDSCAPE PLANTING.

Houses and other buildings are not natural to the
earth’s surface and do not appear happy and at ease
unless they have what the landscape architect calls a “setting... No matter how fine the material
or how beautiful the lines of the house may be, it is not pleasing to look upon unless it appears as
part of the landscape.

The buildings and grounds should be a picture, the house, of course, should be the central figure
but the surroundings should all lead up to it and harmonize with it. A house properly “set looks
homelike and comfortable.

The foliage of trees and shrubs is indispensible as a background or frame to the picture which is
to be created. Everything — the lay of the land* the shape, the size, the color of the house, all must
be considered and complete working plans made before proceeding. It is impossible to make any
set rule that will suit all places. In fact, no rule will apply to any two places. The individuality
of the place must be preserved.

Trees make the sky-line an important feature. They are often invaluable as wind-breaks, and
they supply shade and retain moisture — conditions which are essential to the life of some of our
choicest flowers.

Some of the trees are noteworthy for their profusion of bloom to such an extent as to almost hide
the branches and young leaves. Among these are the cherry and plum, including the varieties that
have come to us from Japan; the English Hawthorne with its array of American cousins; and all
varieties of Crab Apples and flowering peaches. The flowering Dogwood is another tree noted, along
with the Red Bud, for its abundance of bloom. Some of the Willows are especially attractive when
planted near a bog garden, their catkins and bright colored bark, oftimes making the first announce-
ment of spring.

Among the larger sized trees noted for their bloom are the Lindens, Locusts, Catalpa, Horse Chest-
nut, and Red Maple, the two first named being extremely fragrant. The blooms of the Norway and
Soft Maples are also worthy of mention, although not so richly colored as the Red Maple. The dark
green foliage of the Tulip tree is almost so dense as to hide the inconspicuous flowers, although they
are worthy of attention.

There are other ornamental trees which do not attract attention by their bloom, but which have
charms all their own. Some of our native trees such as the sturdy oak, in its many varieties; the
stately American elm, which unfurls its branches in such majesty that it seems to tower above its
neighbors; the sycamore trees with their large, light green foliage are well adapted to city planting
for they are little affected by the smoke. The white bark of the sycamore is very attractive in winter.

Sometimes a weeping tree is highly effective when rightly planted on a lawn. One of the choicest
of all these is the weeping birch. This tree has many attractive characteristics, which combine to make
it one of rare beauty.

Maple. White Birch. Elm

For Lawn and Street Planting.

Another well-known weeping tree is the Camperdown Elm which, when well grown, will form an
enclosure twenty or more feet in diameter. Tea’s Weeping Mulberry, Weir’s Cut Leaf Maple and
some of the Willows are very attractive and lend a particular charm to any spot that has been well
planned.

The leaves of our common trees present a wonderfully varied assortment of greens that is very
pleasing, but where a bit of other coloring is desired there are a few trees which may be well considered.
The best of these are the Purple Leaf Maple, Scarlet Oak and Purple Leaf Beech, but Care must be
taken not to use too many of these abnormally colored leaves.

All deciduous shade trees may be planted in the late fall after the trees are fully matured, or in the
early spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground. The hole in which the tree is to be planted
should be considerably larger than the space occupied by the roots at the time of planting. The ends
of the ropts should be cut smooth and the space between filled in with good, rich soil, which should
be carefully pounded down. Before the hole is completely filled, especially where the soil is light or
sandy, a good wetting is useful in settling and packing the ground. It is usually well to cut off about
two-thirds of last year s growth of branches. Do not disfigure the tree by cutting off large limbs, or
topping it.

It is always best not to have a great variety of trees on a lawn. When one variety of tree pre-
dominates, the garden or lawn will have a distinctive feature all its own.

Trees not only furnish a background for the shrubs and flowers, but they make a boundary for the
sky. It is desirable to have a large sky space and this space should be as informal in shape as the clouds
themselves. Trees should be chosen with regard to the size of the garden. For a small garden only
shrubs should be used as a boundary or perhaps one tree or group of trees on the north side. For a
large garden, trees may sometimes be
used on all sides, as there will be plenty
of space for sunshine anyway. The
outline may be varied by using groups
of various kinds of trees, so that it may
be irregular and produce a most pleas-
ing effect. It is well if the trees can be
planted a year or two in advance of
the shrubs and perennials. The bord-
er of woody growth, varying from low
shrubs to high trees, furnishes a frame
or setting for flowers, shielding the
shade-ioving ferns and other shade-
loving flowers from the sun in one
place, giving the flowers the advant-
age of his rays in another, and protect-
ing the whole from the sweep of the
wind. Remember, the desired effects
cannot be realized in one or two years.

EVERGREENS No home

ground,

whether lawn or garden, is quite com-
plete without at least a few of the
cone bearing Evergreens The winter
landscape would be dreary and mon-
otonous, indeed, if there were no trees
of this kind.

It is well known that the healthy
growth of the conifers depends more
upon the soil than climatic conditions.

The best soil for Evergreens is a
sandy loam of good texture. Lacking
this, the soil should be of good depth
and well drained. The only conifers
suitable to wet locations are the na-
tural swamp lovers, of which two of
the most beautiful specimens are the
long-leaf Pine and bald Cypress.

Porch Box of Evergreens for Winter Effect.

There seems to be no universal “best” time for planting Evergreens, but on account of the habits
of growth the months of April, August and September are generally preferred. Which of these times is
best, depends entirely upon the local conditions of moisture, not only in the soil, but in the air.

When buying Evergreens it is always best to have the trees balled so the soil will not fall from the
roots. The holes in which the Evergreens are to be planted should be at least three times as large as
the ball around the specimen to be planted and eight inches or more deeper. By carrying out this
idea all the soil around the roots will have been thoroughly loosened or cultivated. When the tree is
placed in the hole the ball of earth should be broken up. Fill the hole partly up with loam (as de-
scribed for other trees) then almost fill the hole with water. Let this settle and fill in with remainder
of the dirt, firming well around the trees. Use plenty of mulching of well rotted compost.

There is a large variety of Evergreens — some long lived, some short lived, some tall, some dwarf,
some dark green and some light green. Among later introductions are the golden, the blue, and the
pendulous forms, each one has its strong points, making it particularly desirable for certain locations.

(Lists of Evergreens for different purposes will be found after page 24 in this book.)

BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS The broad leaved Evergreens stand in a

class entirely alone. They require much
more care in handling than do ordinary shrubs, because these broad, evergreen leaves present an enor-
mous evaporating surface in winter when deciduous trees and shrubs have none at all. Consequently,
if the sun strikes these broad leaved Evergreens during a thaw in the winter, the leaves have to trans-
pire as usual, but the roots, being frozen, cannot supply moisture to the leaves as fast as they need it,
to replace what they are giving off. That is the chief reason why so many rhododendrons die.

There are a few rules to be remembered in regard to broad leaved Evergreens: —

Evergreens Balled Ready to Pack in Boxes for Shipment.

1. Plant broad leaved Evergreens
n a partially shaded position where they
vill be protected from winter winds and
sunshine.

2. Prepare the soil with the greatest
tossible care.

3. Give perfect drainage and, if a
imestone soil, treat with sulphate of
nagnesia.

4. Mulch with a foot of litter, sum-
ner and winter, for the Broad-leaved
Evergreens are usually surface feeders
ind always sensitive to drought.

The ideal cultural conditions for all
Broad-leaved Evergreens are these: —

A light, rich loam — one having for
nearly a third of its bulk well ripened
leaf mold, or very thoroughly rotted
manure; at least two feet or more of
this mixture; more would be better.

The best broad leaved Evergreens
for this section of the country are the
Mahonia Aquifolia, American Holly and
Boxwood.

SHRUBS

A look at Nature will reveal the
fact that there is always a greater
or less amount of shrubbery to be
found in any grove where Nature has
not been restricted. It is generally
conceded that a lawn or park is not
quite complete without a certain
amount of shrubbery and perennials
being planted. By careful study of
the surroundings of a place, certain
features may be more effectively
brought into prominence, unsightly
objects screened and a greater amount
of comfort and coziness secured by a
judicious arrangement and planting of
shrubsand perennials.

There can be no general plan laid
down for all places, each place being
Effective Planting Replacing Weeds and Trash of a Few Years Ago. a Jaw unto itself.

(See top of page 16 for plan suggestion.)

The first thing to be done is to study well the plot of ground under consideration; its slope,
the relation it has to the surroundings, the kind of soil, the temperature and the buildings upon it.

Next study well the kind of plants desired, and, of these, select those that are best adapted to the
conditions where they are to grow. (List of plants for different locations following pages 28.)

All that is necessary in planting the shrubbery border, is to plow or dig the soil up to a depth
of one or two feet, give a liberal supply of manure — preferably from a cow stable — plant in the fall
after the stock has thoroughly ripened, or early enough in the spring for them to feel at home before
the hot, dry weather of summer. Having received the shrubs from the nursery, plantthem just as quickly
as possible, so that the roots may not be exposed to the sun one minute longer than necessary. Set
as deep, or a little deeper, than they were were in the nursery row and about three feet apart. If closer
than this they will look crowded, while if farther apart they will look lonely. In two years the
branches will intermingle, and probably in five or six years it may be necessary to remove every other
one of the shrubs and plant them in some other place.

When planted, trim back the branches to balance the loss of the roots. In the autumn it is well
to give the shrubbery border a dressing of manure.

Avoid isolated specimens. A better effect will be obtained by grouping them and planting the
tall varieties in the background, using the lower and dwarf varieties in the front. Do not plant
shrubs in straight lines. It is well in outlining the border to have deep bays which will give a great-
er distance and also carry with them the idea of a mysterious passage to something beyond.

Shrubs may be used as a screen to hide unsightly objects. A barrier of living green makes any
unpleasant object practically non-existant whether the space be large or small. If privacy is desired
the shrubbery border may be so arranged as to almost completely exclude the outside world and yet
allow views which will add a great charm to the grounds.

One of the most important points to be kept in mind is to harmonize the buildings with the
shrubbery and trees. The object desired in the home grounds is to give the house and other buildings,
which are not natural to the ground, a perfectly comfortably setting, so they will look cozy and
homelike. This requires a careful planting of shrubs and vines around the walls of the house, so that
it will have something tieing it to the ground, as it were. Here, again, beware of shutting yourself
in, while shutting out the public. The planting along the side of the house effectively breaks the
line between the house and ground. Here, as in the border, avoid straight lines. Do not plant the
tall growing plants in front of the windows. If planting for winter effect as well as summer, there
are many forms of evergreens, especially the dwarf varieties that can be used in the beds in front of
the walls. All shapes and sizes may be had to suit the style of architecture.

The varieties of shrubs are so many that the amateur may well be puzzled when it comes to
selecting what is needed. A succession of bloom may be had for about eight months of the year,
while during the other rjur months
the red, yellow and green twigs of some
shrubs and bright berries of others will
tend to liven the dreary landscape.

The commonest mistake of all is
to have too great a variety of shrubs
on a small lawn. It is far more ef-
fective to have a clump or mass of
one kind of bloom than to have single
specimens.

Another mistake that is fre-
quently made is to use too many
plants with highly colored leaves, such
as Purple Leaved Plum, variegated or
Golden Leaved Elder, etc., or too

many weeping trees. Well Planned Country Home Producing Natural Effects.

PLAN FOR SMALL NARROW LAWN

Varieties or kind of plants may be selected for this planting from classified list in back of book.

VINES

Vines probably lend themselves to a greater of uses than any other plant, and offer a

splendid opportunity to anyone with a little taste and ingenuity, to carry out many schemes of
his own devising. Their chief value lies in their ability to quickly cover trellises, pergolas, shut
from view unsightly objects, such as out-buildings, laundry yards, shading porches, etc. They aid
greatly in harmonizing the house and the landscape, cover buildings and such objects as no other
plants can, and break up the sharp contrast between building and ground.

Generally speaking, vines are better adapted for planting at the inner points than the outer, while
shrubs should be placed by exactly the opposite rule. When planted at the inner angles they can
climb upon both walls and partially conceal the inside corner line. When planted at a pergola it is
sometimes wise to plant a different vine at each pillar, thus having a succession of bloom, instead of
a great mass of flowers at one time and a monotonous appearance the rest of the season.

Climbers will not exhibit their best charms if trained in too stiff and formal a manner. They
must, in whatever position planted, be allowed to grow untrammeled to a certain extent. Keep as
far from the formal manner as possible. If expected to exhibit their best graces they must be allowed
to grow uncontrolled.

All know the uses to which vines are most commonly put — that of covering walls, shading or
screening porches and verandas and the covering of trellises and pergolas. Besides these uses, there
are a few places, whether large or small, that offer opportunities for their growth in a more natural
way that will add greatly to the charm of any garden. Perhaps a neglected shrubbery, undesirable
in itself, will afford support for such easily grown vines as the Honeysuckles, Clematis Virginia or
Clematis Flamula. An unsightly fence may be made a thing of beauty with climbing roses, honey-
suckles or clematis paniculata. An old tree past its prime or half dead, will furnish a most excellent
support for wistaria, trumpet creeper, aristochlia, or the common Virginia creeper, and produce a
happy result.

Notice how Nature has decorated fence post, tree, bush and rock-pile with a luxuriant growth
of vines. All vines require a trellis, or support, which should be made as inconspicuous as possible.
Poultry netting is one of the best supports to be had, using the different sized mesh for different kinds
of vines.

PLANTING VINES

The same seasonal practice can
be followed in planting vines as in
other stock, but when necessary to
plant in the fall, it is best to protect
the vine during the winter with five or
six inches of earth and then train it
up in the spring.

Most vines are rank growers and
require a liberal amount of plant food.
For vines of all kinds, well rotted
manure is to be preferred t® commer-
cial fertilizers It is more lasting; it
collects and stores moisture that en-
courages root action, and finally there
is very little danger of giving the
plants too much and thereby injuring
them. The best way to apply the
manure so that the plants will get the
most benefit from it, is by trenching
or subsoiling; that is, by digging out
a trench about two feet deep and put-
ting some of the top soil in the bottom,
then a layer of well rotted manure,
_ . T _ _ another layer of soil, etc., until the

Boston Ivy Covering Stone or^ cemeiri walls. Shrubbery along Base trench is full; straighten out all roots

° u ng’ as in tree planting.

Watering vines is one of the most
important points in their growth. - If
the season is dry, the plants should be
watered at whatever season of the
year they make their growth. This
varies with the variety. When water-
ing, soak the ground thoroughly and
it will not be necessary to rep'eat the
operation so often.

In selecting specimens, one should
use well grown, two-year-old plants.
The choice of plants depends upon the
effects to be secured Where a per-
manent covering for a porch is desired the Akabia Quinata, a Japanese production, is one of the best.
It is quite hardy and unfolds its leaves early in the spring, retains them late in the season, is free from
w'orms and caterpillars, and is a rapid grower wrhen once established.

The best known and most useful of the foliage vines are the Boston Ivy and Japanese Ivy. These
are the most suitable for brick or stone walls, because of the disk-like tendrils on the young growths
by which they hold on securely and are supported to any height. The Boston Ivy is perfectly hardy
thrives in any aspect, north, south, east or west and succeeds as well in smoke and dirt of cities as in
cleaner atmospheres. After once established, it needs no attention except cutting back where it en-
croaches on windows, doors, etc. The leaves appear early in the spring, showing beautiful tints of
green and red-brown. In the autumn they turn bright gold and scarlet and are retained very late
in the season.

The Virginia Creeper belongs to the same family, but does not hold so firmly to walls as the Boston
Ivy (see illustration, page 16), trailing much more freely and being better adapted to covering boulders,
banks and low walls. When possible, it is well to plant at the top of a wall and Jet it trail downward
rather than climb upward. The leaves turn to bright colors in the fall and the blue berries are favorites
of the birds. Neither of these vines have any insect enemies.

The Engish Ivy is the only distinctly evergreen vine that is suitable for high walls. It is particu-
larly hardy as far north as New York, but does better on a northern exposure, or where it will be pro-
tected from the sun in winter. The English Ivy is rather a slow grower but there is no other vine that
surpasses it in beauty. In planting, treat as an evergreen shrub. Plant six or eight feet apart and
supply them plentifully with water the first summer or until well established. This vine has few
enemies.

Another evergreen vine that is worthy of a more prominent place on the home grounds, is the
Euonymus Japonica var. radicans. It is frequently seen in masses, used as a low shrub for covering
bare spots and for this it is well adapted, but also possesses great merit as a true vine for walls, trees,
rocks, etc. It clings as closely to a stone wall as the English Ivy, and the small, shiny, green leaves
are about an inch across.

There is also a variety with variegated leaves that is very decorative. These vines are quite easy
to establish when planted in early
spring in rich soil.

Among the most useful of hard-
wood vines requiring support is the
Chinese Wistaria (see illustration on
page 18). When once established this
vine makes a good growth, with but
little care. Never prune until after
the blooming season is passed, or the
bloom stems will be removed. When
the Wistaria is trained over a porch,
the vine, should be fastened across, so
that the blossoms may drop gracefully
into view.

Barren Hillside. Beautified with Evergreen Honeysuckle,
Gienmiller Park, Richmond, Ind.

The Bignonia or Trumpet Creeper is also another hard-
wooded, fast growing vine that requires but little care and is
almost self-supporting. It is perfectly hardy and a fast
grower, soon covering an old tree, post, etc.

Several of the Clematises are excellent for screens or trel-
lises or for draping on walls and pillars. The most generally
grown for this purpose is the Clematis Paniculata. It is one
of the very showiest of all vines, producing more flowers than
any other in August. It is best adapted for trellis work, but
wherever used needs a support of coarse-meshed wire to which
it may cling. It is best to cut back the old growth very
severely, as the flowers are produced on the current year’s
growth. Among other Clematises that are suitable for similar
situations and extend the flowering season are Clematis Vir-
giniana, Clematis Yitalba, Traveler’s Joy, Clematis Coccinea
and Clematis Flammula. Among the large flowered Clematis
are the Jackmani, Madam Andre, Henrii, etc. These do not
flower in such profusion as those of the former type and should
be planted in the most prominent places.

For more dense shade, for covering walls and rougher portions of the garden, the Honeysuckles
are superior to all else. They grow quickly, are not particular as to soil and produce an abundance
of very fragrant flowers through a good part of the season. Though they are not particular as to soil,
like any other plant they respond quickly to good treatment. When planting, it is well to dig out
a good sized hole and fill in with a good quantity of rich soil, and the plants soon establish themselves.
When once planted they require but little care and none of them except the Red Trumpet variety are
subject to attack of insects or disease. Among the best are Hall’s Japan Evergreen flowering in
the fall. The one with variegated foliage as well as the one with reddish flowers blooms all summer.

While climbing roses are not vines in the true sense of the word, they are so easily tied and trained
and are so very effective that they need to be so considered.

Wistaria Vine.

PERENNIALS. The old-time Perennials, with their improved cousins, are coming to be
(A plant living more than two years) more widely known and planted with each year. No hardy border is quite
complete without it being interplanted with some of these choice specimens, and the whole border
filled with Perennials is a thing of beauty and a joy every day during the flowering season.

A very effective way of planting, especially when the space is long, is to use a large quantity of
plants and a few varieties, whose blooming season follows each other in quick succession. It is a good
idea to plant the whole border in small groups, so that the entire space is attractive with flowers of one
kind, and perhaps one or two colors. If this plan is followed, the border cannot present a whole mass
of bloom, but there are pleasant changes almost every week during the season.

The preparation Of a Perennial bed should be very thorough, especially as the soil cannot be well
tended or much enriched afterward. If the subsoil does not permit sufficient under-drainage to pre-
vent water staying on the surface, then under-drainage to the depth of at least two and a half feet
will be necessary.

A first-class Perennial bed, suited to sustain a large variety of plants in vigorous growth,
should have the ground made loose to a depth
of at least two feet. A satisfactory method is
to throw off the top soil, then dig over the sub-
soil and mix with it a liberal amount of manure
and some bone and wood ashes. If the soil is a
stiff clay, an application of about two inches of
screened coal ashes or sand worked into the soil
will keep it loose.

The top, if possible, should be good rich
loam, well mixed with well rotted manure from
the cow barn and put in a fine, pulverized con-
dition. Keep the surface soil rich at all times,
since many of the plants are shallow rooted
and need a very mellow soil.

Vines and Shrubs Around Porch and Foundation of House.

Coreopsis, Hardy Pinks, Larkspur, Galllardia, Columbine, Iris.

The English think nothing of making the Perennial bed at least four feet deep.

The same rule applies to the outline and location of the Perennial border as apply to the shrubbery
border. Place the beds on the margin of the lawn, along walks or driveways near the house. A simple
way to lay out these beds is to lay a rope or hose on the ground and arrange it in the form that is most
pleasing to the eye, then mark the line by stakes or the spade. Do not let the curves be too narrow,
as that will interfere with the cutting of the grass. The side bordering, a fence or lot line may be
straight, unless the neighboring lot owners agree to decorate their lawns, so as to form one extended
landscape view. Then the irregular outline may be carried out on both sides, thus seeming to extend
the space owned by each.

An open, sunny situation, far away from the roots of trees (which rob the soil of moisture and
food) is best for most Perennials.

"When the plants are received from the nursery, unpack them at once. If the quantity be large
the plants should be heeled in, in some shady spot, after having been well watered on both root and
top. Be careful not to get the labels mixed. Plant at leisure, making the hole large enough to
accommodate the roots when straightened out. Then half fill the hole with soil well firmed, after
which water. When the water has disappeared, finish filling with dirt. If the plants wilt during the
day it may be well to shade with a shingle or an inverted flower pot for a few days.

1 — Five Shasta Daisies.

2 — Five Flags, Iris German.

3 — Five Columbine-Aquilegia.

4 — Six Foxglove, Digitalis.

5 — Eight Speedwell-Veronica

6 — Ten Rudbeckia Newmanii.

7 — Eight Coreopsis Lanceolate.

8 — Six Hollyhocks.

9 — Twelve Phlox, assorted.

10 — Fifteen Sweet Williams. Dianthus Barbatus.

11 — Six Kansas Gay Feather, Liatris

12 — Seven Blanket Flower, Gaillardia.

13 — Six Beards Tongue, Penstamon Barbatus.

14 — Eight Chinese Bellflower, Platycodon

Grandiflora.

15 — Eight Cone Flower, Rudbeckia Purpurea.

16 — Fifteen French Honeysuckle. Hedysarium

coronarium.

17 — Fifteen Golden Glow, Rudbeckia.

18 — Three Treefoil, Desmodium Penduliflorum.

19 — Three Potentilia.

20 — Eight Marsh Mallow, Hibiscus Mehanii.

21 — Eight Phlox White.

22 — Eight Baby’s Breath.

23 — Ten Forget-Me-Not, Myosotis Palustris

24 — Twelve Pansy Viola.

25 — Six Paeon ies.

Trees and Plants Staked with Bamboo Sticks.

When tall plants are used, it is often well to stake them or they will be prostrate on the ground
when blooming season appears. Slender bamboo sticks are excellent for this purpose.

PERENNIALS FOR EARLY SPRING.

It is an easy matter to have a mass
of bloom during the summer months,
but to possess plants yielding their lovliness before winter has hardly taken its departure, is indeed a
luxury to be enjoyed.

There are some half dozen Perennials that gladden the heart during April and May and are more
than ordinarily charming. The Hepatica — that exquisite little plant from the heart of the forest —
succeeding so well in the sunny border or garden, heads the list for earliness of blossom, and what
an individuality it has! No two clusters alike; all shades and sizes; some sending forth a dainty
perfume like the violets. A closely planted bed of Hepaticas will radiate as much beauty as a beq
of Crocuses and afford much more enjoyment. The Hepatica is easily transplanted at any time during
the growing season.

Just before the beauty of the Hepatica has departed the Bloodroot breaks into flower and is the
chief attraction for a week or so. The flowers are pure white with a heart of golden yellow. The blood-
roots are very hardy and may be easily transplanted.

The Hardy Primrose begins to display its bright colored buds about the last of April, and lasts
well into May. The Primroses with their wealth of color, or pure white blossoms, are always welcome.
They are perfectly hardy if given a good covering of leaves in the fall.

The Pockcrest and Candytuft are two companion plants with a great profusion of pure white
flowers. These are followed closely by the veritable carpet of pink or white of the Creeping Phlox,
which is so easy of culture, extremely hardy and perfectly adaptable to planting in the sun or shade.

Beginning with the last of May there is such a wealth of varieties of Perennials that the question
is, “What shall be planted?" There are Perennials for every location, whether sunny or shady, high
or low, but to know how to make the happy selection is the point which puzzles.

The study of color effects is also one of interest and one that requires a pretty good knowledge
of the plants. It is well to use white, gold, or a dull purplish hue to harmonize the strong colors. (To
aid you, there are some lists of Perennials for every location near the back of this book.)

Never before has the “Queen of Flowers” been so available to everyone, as now.
ROSES. Other flowers may be “boomed” for a day, but their glory soon fades, and another
comes forth to take its place, but the rose continues as the most prized flower of the garden.

The garden rose of today has been bred for the beauty of its plant form, as well as for the beauty
of the flower. It is likewise being bred for health, hardiness, freedom and continuity of bloom. As
a result, the hybridizers have produced some wonderful specimens, through all the beautiful shades
of red, yellow, pink, crimson and pure white.

The ideal site for a rose garden is
a spot airy but sheltered (especially
from the biting winds of winter), open
to the influence of the sun, all day if
possible, and quite free from the in-
fluence of large and growing trees. A
southern exposure is best, but if this
cannot be had, select a place that
receives the morning sun. Never
plant roses on the north side of a
building, hedge or windbreak. Low
ground is more subject to late frosts
than the adjacent places only a few
feet higher, and the late frosts are to
be dreaded after the young shoots
have started.

STONE FOR
DRAINAGE

Cross Section of Prepared Rose Bed.

gQ J The best soil is a deep loam. Well drained ground is essential, and the site should never

before have been used for roses, unless new soil has been substituted for the old.

Roses cannot live in soil that is wet. This objection can usually be avoided by digging out the
bed to a depth of three feet and filling in one foot with boken stone, bricks, cinders, gravel or any-
thing that will permit a free passage of water. If this does not answer, one must resort to tile drainage.

At least three months before planting, the soil for the beds should be dug to a depth of two feet
and liberally enriched with well rotted manure (preferably with cow manure).

TIME TO PLANT

As a rule, spring planting of roses gives the most satisfactory results
in the end. The Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas should be planted
just as early as the soil is suitable. All others are best planted after April 20th, when the danger of
sharp frosts has entirely passed.

When roses are unpacked, if they seem to be shriveled, soak them in water and bury them com-
pletely (cover up roots and branch with moist earth) in a trench, after which soak the ground with
water. In a few days uncover and they will be found revived.

The first rule for planting is to wait for dry soil and select, if possible, a cloudy, calm day. The
roses may be immersed in pails of water or dipped in mud, to prevent the roots from becoming dry
while the planting is being done. They should be planted deeper than they were previously set, per-
mitting the dirt to come up slightly higher than the previous mark.

Before planting, each plant should be examined and all broken roots cut off with a sharp knife.
A hole large enough to accommodate all the roots (without crowding) should be made for each plant.
On budded roses, the crown or point where the bud was inserted, should be placed two inches below
the surface of the soil and all the roots spread out carefully, inclining downward a little. Cover the

roots with fine soil, free from
fresh manure, water well, and
when the water has disappeared
fill in the remainder of the soil
and pack firmly. This may be
done by tramping around the
plant. It is always well to add
a mulch (a top dressing of
coarse manure) for the winter
months. In the spring this
can be partly removed. Do
not cultivate over three inches
deep, as the roots come quite
close to the surface and are
likely to be injured.

/>\ V

•V b
fL?/l

4 -v" y

Fig 2

t-FALL PRUNING

2- SPRING

PRUNING

3- ROTTED

COMPOST

4-GROUND

LEVEL

PLANTING DORMANT ROSES
!-'COLLAR"OR un/on of top
AND' ROOT STOCK

2 GROUND LEVEL

3 CUTAFTER PLANT/NG

Throughout the entire sea
the middle of July, frequent st .
soil is necessary. Keep a sharp loo..wut
for suckers that shoot up from below
the graft. As soon as these appear
they should be removed. (Suckers
are shoots that come up from below
the bud or graft, and are, therefore,
seedlings and will not have perfect
flowers or will not be the kind desired.)
After the last cultivation has been
Roses Admired By All. given, apply a liberal mulch of cow

manure. This is to enrich the soil and hold the moisture.

It is usually better to give the roses some protection during the winter months. A neat and ef-
fective way to accomplish this, is to place a twelve-inch poultry netting around the bed and fill with
leaves. Evergreen boughs make a good protection, but are difficult to get at most places in any
quantity.

PRUNING

The pruning of hardy roses, climbers and non-climbers should be accomplished
by the last of March. Tender roses should be pruned just before commencing
to grow in the spring. In pruning, cut out all the dead wood and weakest shoots first. Where
two limbs cross and are liable to rub each other, remove one of them, remembering to keep the center
of the plant as clear as possible to admit the circulation of air.

The varieties of roses are so numerous that the proper selection is quite difficult. The main
divisions of roses are Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Tea, Hardy Climbers, Rugosa and Wichurianas.

BULBS

Fall is the time in which to prepare for the feast of flowers so greatly to be enjoyed
in the spring. The amateur bulb grower should place his order early in the fall,
say September, so that it may be filled as soon as the bulbs are received from Holland. They may
be planted any time from the first of October until the ground is frozen.

The first work in preparing the bed for bulbs is to cover the surface with a good coating of well
rotted manure; then spade up the earth deeply. Plunge the spade or fork down to the full depth
and turn up the earth from the bottom. After spading, rake down the earth from the center to make
the bed perfectly level. It may we well to use a little dibble so as to get all the bulbs planted at the
same depth. The only objection to this is that it sometimes compresses the soil too much, leaving
a hollow place underneath the bulb. This should be filled with coarse sand before the bulb is set.
Close contact with the soil is essential. Standing water at the base of the bulb will cause the

roots to decay. Generally speak-
ing all the Dutch bulbs thrive
better for having some sand mixed
with the soil. Firm the soil well
around the base of the bulb.

Diagram Showing Depth to Plant Bulbs.

DEPTHS AND DISTANCES Hy^nths daffodils

and tulips should be

planted five or six inches apart and about four inches deep. The Poet’s
Narcissus, and some others with comparatively small bulbs, need to be
only four inches apart. Snowdrops, crocuses, scillas and other small
bulbs may be set two and a half to three inches apart, and about two
and a half inches deep.

After the ground has been frozen in the early winter, give the
bulb bed a winter protection of leaves or straw manure, or some other
light material which can be kept from blowing away by a covering of
evergreen boughs.

Tulip.

This mulch is to prevent successive freezing and thawing; therefore, do not place it on the beds
before they are frozen. The protecting material should be removed in the spring as soon as all danger
of frost is past. Beds of bulbs in masses, left over from year to year, should have a coating of manure

The directions for planting the Hyacinths apply to Tulips. The class called
“Bedding Tulips” are, generally speaking, the best to plant in beds. This class does
not include any of the late flowering varieties or the “Parrot” Tulips.

After a little experimenting and reading about Tulips, a succession of bloom may
be had for at least a month, the joy of which will remain through the year.

DAFFODILS AND NARCISSI The Narcissi do well in any

soil, except the two extremes
of sand or clay, but good drainage is essential. Prepare the ground thoroughly,
for the bulbs are to remain undisturbed for five or six years, until they get so thick
that they crowd the surface. Set the bulbs five or six inches apart and cover about
four inches deep.

As soon as the surface of the soil is frozen, cover it from four to six
inches deep with strawy manure, and in the early spring rake this off
before the shoots come up. When the flowers come, do not let the seeds
form, but cut the flower stalks, or the bulbs cannot ripen well, and the
flowers next year will be inferior. For the best “cut-flowers” cut them
as soon as the bud opens. They will keep much longer.

A beautiful floral picture may be created by naturalizing the Poet’s
Narcissus.

Snowdrops are the very earliest of all spring flowers, coming into
flower very soon after the snow disappears.

For the very earliest yellow flower, use the winter Aconite (Eranthus
Hyemalis). It comes into bloom long before the winter is past. The
old fashioned crown imperial (Fritillaria Imperalis) known to everybody,
but somehow not much planted (possibly because of the disagreeable
odor of the flowers), should be planted as early in the fall as the bulbs
can be obtained.

The Spanish and English Irises should not be neglected,
as, they are very beautiful and bloom earlier than the German

or Japanese sorts. These both start growing early in the
spring, and therefore must be planted in the fall. The
Spanish Iris thrives best in moist locations.

The German, Japanese and Siberian Irises follow and
should all have a special place in the border. These should
be planted in the fall, about four inches deep and should
be protected during the winter by a mulch. When it is pos-
sible to plant the Japanese and Siberian varieties on the
back of a pool or lake, they will flourish most luxuriantly.

In planting the fall bulbs, do not forget the Lilies, for
they possess a grace and beauty all their own, There are, at
least, fifty varieties of Lilies, perfectly fitted to American
gardens. All of these Lilies are easy to grow. Plant them
in the fall in ordinary garden soil. By selecting carefully, a
succession of bloom may be had for five successive months —
from June to October.

Lilies should be planted as soon as the bulbs can be
obtained in the fall, as the growth will be stronger and
better than from the same bulb planted in the spring.

Whenever and wherever the Lilies are planted, consider the comparative permanence and do
not plant where they are subject to disturbance or surface cultivation.

The bulbs should be planted from four to eight inches deep, according to the size of the bulb.
It is well to have some good, sharp sand at hand and put some in each hole to form a sand base upon

each fall.

Dibble.

which the bulbs can rest. Some growers even envelope the
whole bulb in an inch of sand. This is a protection from
insects and obviates stagnation of moisture around the bulb.

As a rule, Lilies like a rich soil, but it seems to be the
general opinion of all who have experimented in growing
them, that the manures (particularly fresh manures) should
not be allowed to come into direct contact with the bulbs.
Many advocate the application of all manures as a mulch,
letting the rains carry down the fertilizing ingredients.

Lilies as a rule do better when set at considerable depth.
They seem to resist drought better and the bulbs no doubt
keep cool in hot weather.

Most Lilies have two sets of roots, one lot growing at
the base of the bulb, the other coming from the stem be-
tween the top of the bulb and the surface of the soil. Deep
setting is necessary to this root growth

Lilies.

THE SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS Come in a class to themselves,

but furnish a very valuable and attractive lot of plants which are indispensable to the garden.

> None of these bulbs should be planted out in the spring until the ground has commenced to
warm up and danger of frost has passed. They are of easiest possible culture.

Gladiolus t Caladlums. Tuberose

They should have a sunny location, rich, loamy soil, in which case they will be almost sure to bloom.

The most commonly used bulbous plant for summer decoration is the Canna, which produces
good effects even when not in bloom.

There is a wide choice in Cannas as they range in height from one and a half feet to six feet. The
foliage also varies, being ordinarily green, but there are varieties with deep bronze foliage. The Cannas
bear a profusion of bright red and yellow flowers which are very showy.

The glorious Gladiolus is one of the most satisfactory summer flowering bulbs, but if used in the
border needs some low growing plant in front of it.

^ The bulbs should be planted two inches deep and four or five inches apart, and if used for bedding
purposes the rows should be about ten inches apart, so that in two or three weeks another planting
may be made between the original rows. This will insure a succession of bloom until almost time
for frost.

There is a great diversity of brilliant colors and beautiful markings in the Gladiolus.

One plant which frequently creates some rivalry between near neighbors, who try to see which
can grow the largest leaves, is the Caladium (Elephant Ears).

Bulbs of this plant may be put into the ground as soon as danger of frost is past.
A moist, rich soil is best. It is impossible to give these too much food. Mulch the soil
with four or five inches of well decayed manure and during the dry weather the soil should
have frequent soakings.

The Dahlia probably stands next in favor amongst the summer flowering plants. It is better
adapted to culture in the back of the garden for cut flowers than as a bedding plant.

The bulbs of the Dahlia may be set out any
time in May. They thrive best in a soil not too rich
and with plenty of sunshine. There is a wide range of
color and a very great variety in the shape of the
Dahlias now, so that they are most interesting and
attractive.

The Tuberoses, most fragrant of all flowers, and
the Ixias, also deserve mention. All these bulbs need
lifting when danger of frost approaches and should be
taken in and stored in a cool, dry place until the follow-
ing spring.

The Paeony is one of the most satisfactory of the
herbaceous plants for any garden, because it is long
lived and requires but little attention from year to

year. It is seldom troubled by insects or plant diseases and is fine for cut
flowers for house decoration.

The best time to plant the Paeony is in the early fall as soon as the
growth has ripened— then their roots will have time to make some growth
and become established. They may be set in the spring; but it will probably
be a year or two before they are established well enough to produce a full
crop of flowers.

The Paeony will grow in almost any soil or situation, but for the best
flowers the ground must be thoroughly prepared.

Having selected a sunny site for the beds, dig out the soil to a depth of
two or three feet, according to the soil. In ordinary loam or heavy clay, two
feet is sufficiently deep; in sandy or gravelly loam three feet is better.

In well drained situations, no artifical drainage is necessary, but a six-
inch layer of well decayed manure should be thrown in and mixed with the
soil taken from the hole, one part manure and three parts soil.

Where the soil is sandy or gravelly, mix some leaf mold, seasoned muck
or clayey loam with soil and add the manure to give it a moisture holding
capacity.

Set the Paeony roots three feet apart and cover them with three or four
inches of soil. In three years these plants will completely shade the ground
bo no weeds can grow. They should receive a liberal mulch during the winter. As soon as the
ground freezes cut off the stalks to within three inches of the ground. In the spring the strawy
part of the mulch should be taken off and the rest worked into the soil, being careful not to injure
the crowns and the new growth.

When dividing Paeony bulbs, break them apart, if possible, instead of cutting. * Cutting the
roots seems to be detrimental.

The Paeony may well be called the “King of Flowers” for it is truly gorgeous, both as to the
colorings and the size of the flowers. To the happy possessor of a few choice plants, they act only as
an incentive to have more.

Paeony Root.

Paeony Bed.

HEDGES

There is nothing that will add so
much to a place as a hedge if properly-
placed, cared for and the proper kind
of hedge used whether evergreen,
deciduous or flowering.

There is no question but what a
hedge fence is cheaper than other
fences and adds more value to a place
when a fence is needed. The pleasure
derived from the hedge is worth more
than the expense and labor required
for its care.

PLANTING A HEDGE To get quickest results in planting a hedge, mark out the

line where the hedge is to be planted. Dig the ground at
least 15 to 18 inches deep and about 2 feet wide along the line made for the hedge. Mix the ground
thoroughly with well rotted compost or barnyard manure, pulverize the ground well, and level the top
surface, then draw a line exactly where the hedge is to be planted ; walk over the line and it will
make a mark showing where to plant. If the roots are not to large, the plants may be spaded in as
shown in the cut, but if the roots are too large it is best to throw out a ditch large enough to receive the
roots without cramping and deep enough so the plants, when properly placed, will be in a few inches
deeper than they were planted in the nursery row. When the ground settles it will leave them at
about the proper depth. Put the plant at the proper place in the trench or ditch, throw dirt in around
the roots, working it up among the roots well, and firm in about two-thirds of the trench with dirt.
If the ground is at all dry, put plenty of water in and throw in the remainder of the dirt, but do not
firm it for at least a day or two, so as to prevent the dirt hardening around the roots.

The kind of a hedge to plant depends upon the surroundings, location, and the purpose it is to serve.
If it is to serve as a protection against chickens, dogs, cats or stock, it is well to stretch fine-
meshed 15 to 18-inch poultry netting on the exact line of the fence. Plant a row alternately on each
side and as near the netting as possible. Within a few months the hedge will grow through this,
completely hiding it and making a fence through which even a cat cannot go.

For the ornamental hedge there are many plants that may be used with happy results.

The California Privet leads the list, being better known, therefore more generally used than any
other hedge plant. When well kept, a fence of this is very effective. It thrives in almost any soil
and seems to be equally happy in either sunshine or shade. It does not usually suffer from drought.
Sometimes the winter is too severe for it. Then trim back close to the ground and in a short time
the hedge will be as beautiful as before.

The Ibota Privet is not as well known as the California, but is more hardy. It will do well as
far north as St. Paul, Minnesota.

There is still another JPrivet, with two varieties that are very satisfactory. The one, Amoor River
Privet North, is very hardy but not as pretty as the Amoor River Privet South, which is evergreen
in the South, but not suitable for planting in the North.

To obtain the best and quickest results with the Privets, the plants should be one or two years old
and twelve to. eighteen or eighteen to twenty-four inches high.

> The thorn hedge should be planted about eight inches apart in the row. They are of rather slow
growth, but owing to the spines makes a hedge which cattle seldom attempt to break through. If
kept properly trained from the first, so as to make the bottom full and close, it will even exclude a
small dog.

Chief among these are the Honey
Locust of which two-year-old trans-
planted stock is preferred. The Buck-
thorn and English Hawthorn also
make desirable hedges. Two-year-old
plants are commonly used. The Com-
mon and Thunbergii Berberry are
really the most popular and more
ornamental than the foregoing vari-
eties of Thom Hedges. Two-year-old
plants are to be preferred. The sizes
generally used of the Common Ber- Well Trimmed Hedge,

berry are eighteen to twenty-four

inches and two to three feet. Of the Thunbergii, twelve to eighteen inches and eighteen to twenty-
four inches, transplanted stock.

Among the Flowering Hedge
Plants there are a great number
that have proven most satis-
factory, chief among these
being the Althea or Rose of
Sharon. This is very effective
even early in the season before
the blossoms appear. The foli-
age is light green and hand-
some. The flowers begin to
ippear usually the latter part
of July and continue until
Possibilities in Hedge Trimming. frost.

The Spirea Van Houtii also

makes a very attractive hedge. Nothing can excel in beauty the long, drooping, arched
branches of this Spirea when covered with its load of white blossoms in May.

The Rosa Rugosa, and Sweet Brier Rose, make a charming hedge and stand exposure well.

The above plants should all be planted about twelve inches apart and two-year-old plants either
eighteen to twenty-four inches or two to three feet are preferred.

Climbing Roses are also effective in hedges and should be set two to three feet apart; two-year-
old plants are preferred.

Notwithstanding the enthusiasm generally shown for the deciduous hedges, and the delight we get
from the hedges of the beautiful flowering shrubs, there is nothing that will quite take the place of
an evergreen for the hedge or that furnishes so good a protection against winter’s chilling blasts.

The Hemlock Spruce is probably the evergreen which holds first place for hedges and windbreaks.
Four-year-old transplanted stock, 18-24 inches high is preferred.

Norway and White Spruce are other valuable evergreens for hedges and windbreaks. Four-year-
old transplanted trees are also preferred in these as in all other evergreens for this purpose. The
Norway Spruce should be twelve to eighteen inches and the White twelve to eighteen or eighteen to
twenty-four inches high.

The Arbor Vitae is probably equal to the Hemlock Spruce. It is stouter and stiffer and will better
endure a small degree of neglect. Little trees twelve to eighteen and eighteen to twenty-four inches
high are most to be desired.

TIME FOR TRIMMING HEDGE

Hedges can be trimmed at any time, with the exception of flowering hedge. These should not
be trimmed until after they are through blooming, then trim them so they can form blooming
wood for the next season’s flowers. As to the shape of the hedge, this depends on your own likes
and dislikes and what is needed to be in harmony with the surroundings.

Lombardy Poplar, 3-year-old, 4-6 feet
and 6-8 feet.

White Spruce, 6-year-old, 2-3 feet.

Hornbean, 4-year-old, 2-3 feet.

The trees for a windbrake should be planted,
feet apart.

European Larch, 3-year-old, 4-6 feet and
6-8 feet.

Austrian Pine, 4-year-old, 2-3 feet and
3-4 feet.

Norway Spruce, 4-year-old, 2-3 feet,
wherever possible in a double row from 10 to 12

Russian Wild Olive Hedge

WINDBREAKS ^ile the

hedge serves,

in a measure, as a protection from the pierc-
ing winds of winter, yet it is frequently de-
sirable to have a tall hedge or windbreak.
Professor Bailey suggests that it is not al-
ways necessary to protect ourselves from
all sorts of winds. When the wind passes
over a large body of water it becomes several
degrees warmer than the atmosphere, by
taking up the heat from the water as well
as the moisture. In this case a windbreak
would be detrimental . From a general study
of the subject it seems that for interior lo-
calities, a dense belt of evergreens with a
background of deciduous trees, to keep the
evergreens from becoming ragged, is ad-
visable, because winds coming over the land
are liable to make the plantation colder. A
Windbreak may exert a great infuence over
a fruit plantation. The benefits derived
from a windbreak are, protection from cold,
lessening amount of evaporation, enabling
the trees of an orchard to grow more erect
and furnishing homes for birds.

Grape, evergreen honeysuckle or other
vines may be so planted as to trail over the
branches, thus producing a natural effect
besides furnishing a large amount of grapes
for home use and for food for the birds.

The following varieties of trees are among
the most desirable ones to be used.

Information on when and how to spray may be obtained free by writing
the State Experimental Station, State Department of Agriculture, or
United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.

SPRAYING.

FRUIT TREES OF OLD TESTED KINDS THAT HAVE
PROVEN SATISFACTORY OVER THE GREATEST
RANGE OF TERRITORY FOR HOME USE.

APPLE.

Yellow Transparent, early.
Wealthy, Med. early.
Duchess, early.

Fall Rambo.

Summer Rambo.

Jonathan.

CHERRY.

Montmorency.

Yellow Spanish.

Early Richmond.

Black Tartarian.

Dye House.

Gov. Wood.

QUINCE.

Orange.

Champion.

PEAR.

Kieffer. Clapp’s Favorite.

Duchess. Flemish Beauty.

Bartlett. Seckle.

Wilder’s Early.

PEACH.

Elberta.

Salway.

Champion.

Lemon Free.

Kalamazoo.

Lemon Cling.

PLUM.

Moore’s Artie. Abundance.

Lombard. Bradshaw.

Burbank. German Prune.

Shropshire Damson.

Grimes Golden.
York Imperial.
Rome Beauty.

Stay mans Winesap .
Wine Sap.

Winter Banana.

SMALL

GRAPE.

Concord. Brighton.

Worden. Delaware.

Niagara.

CURRANTS.

Cherry. Fay.’s.

Wilder. White Grape.

. Red Cross.

RASPBERRY.

Cumberland.

Eureka.

FRUITS.

STRAWBERRY.

Haverland. Senator Dunlap.

Bubach. Uncle Jim.

GOOSEBERRY.

Downing. Houghton.

BLACKBERRY.-

Mersereau.

Cardinal.

Cuthbert

Eldorado.

Snyder.

The following lists are only suggestive. It is not aimed to list
all the Trees, Shrubs, etc., but just a few choice ones
from each class, one plant frequently ap-
pearing in several lists.

ORNAMENTAL TREES ASSEMBLED FOR SPECIAL PLACES.

TREES FOR CITY PLANTING.

Ash, American; Fraxinus Americana.

Elm, American; Ulmus Americana.

Linden, American; Tilia Americana.
Linden, European; Tilia Europea.
Sycamore, American; Platinus Occidentals.
Oak White; Quercus Alba.

Oak Scarlet; Quercus Coccinea.

Maple Norway; Acer Platinoides.

Maiden Hair Tree: Ginkgo Biloba.

Tree of Heaven; Ailanthus Glandulosa.

Soft Maple; Acer Saccharinum.

TREES FOR WINTER BEAUTY.

Sycamore; Platinus Occidentalis.

White Birch; Betula Alba.

Beach; Fagus Sylvatica.

Willow Golden Bark; Salix Vitellina.

Ash Golden Bark; Fraxinus Excelsior Aurea.

WEEPING TREES.

Cut Leaf Weeping Birch; Betula Alba Var. Pen-
dula Laciniata.

Elm Camperdown; Ulmus Scabra. var. Pendula.
Maple Weir’s Cut Leaf; , Acer Saccharinum var.
Weir’s Lacinata.

Mulberry; Tea’s Weeping; Morus Alba var. Tar-
tarica Pendula.

Willow Kilmarnock Weeping; Salix Caprea var7.
Pendula.

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