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Historic,  Archive  Document 

Do  not  assume  content  reflects  current 
scientific  knowledge,  policies,  or  practices. 


I 


Walnut  Growing 
in  Oregon 


By  CHARLES  TRUNK 
Dundee,  Oregon 


SECOND  EDITION 


Reprinted  by 

CAPITAL  CITY  NURSERY  COMPANY 
Salem,  Oregon 


HORTICULTURAL 


A Black  Walnut  tree  top-grafted  to  the 
Vrooman  Franquette  variety. 


There  are  hundreds  of  Black  Walnut  trees 
scattered  throughout  the  country  that  can 
be  made  very  valuable  by  top-grafting. 


L 2 ] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 

As  Viewed  by  Mr.  Chas.  Trunk,  of 
Dundee,  Oregon,  in  1915. 

The  reader  will  observe  the  following 
article  is  in  two  sections.  The  first  section 
was  written  by  Mr.  Trunk  in  1915,  while 
the  last  section  was  added  in  1917. 


It  is  thought  that  Walnut  Growing  in 
Oregon  will  become  one  of  our  leading  in- 
dustries. 

Planted  Seedling  Trees. 

The  first  commercial  grove  of  100  acres 
was  grown  by  Mr.  Thos.  Prince,  of  Dun- 
dee. His  trees  are  now  18  or  19  years 
old.  This  planting  consists  of  seedling 
trees,  with  a small  sprinkling  of  grafted 
trees.  Being  a close  neighbor  of  Mr. 
Prince’s  and  seeing  his  trees  come  into 
bearing,  and  having  increasing  crops 
from  year  to  year,  we  decided  in  the 
winter  of  1906  to  plant  10  acres  to  wal- 
nuts. At  the  time  we  planted  our  trees, 
there  were  but  few  grafted  trees  to  be 
obtained,  consequently  we  planted  seed- 
ling trees,  as  practically  all  other  grow- 
ers in  this  neighborhood  did. 

In  the  year  1907  we  planted  10  acres — 
1908  five  acres,  and  in  1909  we  decided 
to  plant  13  additional  acres,  but  thought 
we  had  better  plant  the  seed  where 
trees  were  to  grow,  planting  four  nuts, 
taking  out  the  following  year  the  poorest 
trees  and  leaving  the  best  to  grow. 

In  1910  we  made  another  planting  of 
12  acres,  making  our  grove  to  contain  50 
acres.  This  last  planting  was  of  the 
Vrooman  Franquette,  being  three 
years  old  at  the  time  of  planting. 

[3] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


Use  Prunes  as  Fillers. 

All  this  land  is  rolling,  having  shotty 
soil.  Three  years  ago  we  planted  14 
acres  to  prunes,  planting  every  30  feet 
in  every  fourth  row,  four  black  walnuts 
—both  eastern  and  California,  which 
young  trees  were  grafted  this  spring 
with  scions  from  our  best  seedling  trees. 
We  have  another  small  planting  eight  and 
nine  years  of  age  on  waste  land  which 
gave  us  the  past  two  years  fair  returns. 

Trees  Planted  50  Feet  Apart. 

All  of  our  trees  are  planted  50  feet  in 
square,  except  the  14  acres  with  prunes 
as  fillers.  Our  seedling  walnuts  of  the 
first  planting  are  Mayette,  Franquette 
and  Parisienne  varieties,  leaving  out  the 
Parisienne  in  later  plantings.  All  of  our 
seedling  trees  were  planted  one  year  old, 
planting  the  same  two  to  three  inches 
deeper  than  grown  in  nursery.  It  would 
lengthen  this  article  too  much  to  explain 
the  planting  and  cultivation  up  to  the 
present  time.  We  would  like  to  impress 
on  the  minds  of  prospective  walnut  grow- 
ers, that  the  best  care  is  none  too  good 
if  you  want  your  trees  to  come  to  bear 
early  and  bring  you  returns  on  invest- 
ment and  labor. 

Seedling  Trees  Regular  and  Heavy 
Bearers. 

At  the  present  time  there  is  a move- 
ment to  plant  grafted  trees  only — some 
growers  and  nurserymen  recommend 
this  plan  very  strongly.  Being  located 
in  the  walnut  center  of  the  State,  having 
under  close  observation  our  own  trees, 
both  seedling  and  grafted,  also  neighbor- 
ing groves,  we  feel  we  have  a good  in- 
side view  of  the  merits  of  both.  I wish 
to  say  here,  that  I am  not  a nurseryman, 
having  neither  seedling  or  grafted  trees 
to  sell,  but  want  to  state  plainly  the 
facts  as  they  appear  here. 

[4] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


Take  our  first  three  plantings — seven, 
eight  and  nine  year  old  seedling  trees, 
at  the  present  time,  consisting  of  25 
acres,  which  came  into  bearing  in  1911, 
getting  that  year  a three-fourths  of  a 
flour  sack  full;  1912  one  grain  sack;  1913 
six  and  a half  sacks;  1915.  100  sacks  of 
walnuts.  Our  seedling  trees  of  1909 
have  a fine  sprinkling  of  walnuts;  our 
grafted  trees  started  to  bear  two  years 
ago,  having  a half  gallon  of  nuts,  last 
year  three  grain  sacks  full  and  this  year 
will  have  a small  crop,  approximately 
two  to  three  gallons — a decrease  of  two 
and  three-fourths  sacks. 

Looking  over  the  groves  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, we  find  the  same  conditions, 
seedling  trees  well  loaded,  grafted  trees 
comparatively  few  walnuts.  A five  acre 
tract  of  18  year  old  trees  located  near 
here  is  bearing  very  sparingly  this  sea- 
son. These  trees  are  goood  size  and 
ought  to  produce  75  pounds  of  walnuts 
per  tree,  but  will  have  hard  work  to  tip 
the  scales  at  30  or  even  20  pounds. 

Meat  Rather  Than  Shell  Counts. 

Some  growers  put  forth  the  statement 
that  grafted  trees  put  forth  a larger  nut. 
This  is  true  to  some  extent,  because 
these  trees  are  grafted  with  scions  taken 
from  trees  bearing  large  nuts,  but  let 
nobody  be  deceived  at  picking  time,  you 
will  find  large  and  small  nuts  just  like 
you  find  on  seedling  trees.  You  get  the 
type  of  nut,  but  size  will  vary.  Same  as 
you  will  find  apples  grown  on  grafted 
trees,  get  both  large  and  small  apples. 

We  find  the  French  imported  nut  is  of 
medium  size,  as  is  also  the  California 
walnut.  On  opening  walnuts  we  find  the 
medium  size  walnuts  have  more  meat  in 
proportion  to  the  size  than  the  larger 
ones,  and  sharp  housewives  of  the  future 
we  think  would  rather  have  the  meat 
than  shell. 


[5] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


Seedling  Trees  Have  Less  Blight. 

Comparing  the  seedling  with  grafted 
trees  as  to  blight,  we  will  say,  the  graft- 
ed tree  in  this  vicinity  shows  25  per  cent 
more  blight  tree  per  tree  than  the  seed- 
lings. We  have  in  our  groves  seedlings 
that  have  not  and  never  have  had  any 
blight,  but  not  a single  grafted  tree  but 
that  did  not  have  the  blight  from  the 
beginning.  We  are  strongly  consider- 
ing the  replacing  of  grafted  trees  in  our 
grove,  where  we  used  prunes  for  fillers, 
with  seedling  trees,  if  the  grafted  trees 
in  this  vicinity  do  not  bear  better  next 
year.  Some  put  forth  the  statement 
that  they  can  sell  the  grafted  nuts  at  a 
higher  price  than  the  seedling  nuts. 
Will  there  not  be  more  money  in  selling 
two  pounds  of  seedlings  at  20  cents  per 
pound,  than  having  one  pound  of  graft- 
ed nuts  to  sell  at  25  cents? 

Grafted  Trees  May  Bear  First. 

The  claim  is  often  put  forth  that  the 
grafted  trees  will  come  into  bearing  at 
two,  three  and  four  years  of  age.  Ad- 
mitting this  fact,  what  does  the  few  nuts 
grown  on  these  young  trees  amount  to, 
compared  to  the  injury  it  does  the  trees? 
We  have  a seedling  tree  that  bore  24 
pounds  of  walnuts  at  seven  years  of  age, 
increasing  this  yield  from  year  to  year. 

Planting  seedling  orchards  of  the 
higher  standard,  all  undesirable  trees 
ought  to  be  taken  out,  or  top  grafted. 
This  can  easily  be  done  if  you  know  how, 
and  every  grower  should  be  able  to  do 
so.  Any  trees  that  do  not  leaf  out  before 
June  15th  may  not  mature  their  nuts, 
only  increasing  the  culls,  and  should 
either  be  removed  or  top  grafted.  The 
idea  is  to  make  every  tree  a producer, 
and  if  you  have  seedlings  of  this  kind 
you  cannot  ask  for  anything  better;  also 
any  seedling  trees  that  bear  small  or  ill- 
[6] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


shaped  nuts  should  be  replaced  with 
others. 

Protection  Against  Frost  Losses. 

One  more  point  that  is  in  favor  of 
seedlings  is  this,  they  leaf  out  during  a 
period  of  six  to  eight  weeks,  from  the 
15th  of  April  to  the  15th  of  June.  Our 
12  acres  of  grafted  trees  come  out  in 
leaf  and  set  the  fruit  inside  of  a few 
days  in  April.  Suppose  we  have  a hard 
frost  — the  whole  crop  is  practi- 
cally gone,  but  if  a frost  should  strike 
our  seedlings  in  the  range  of  eight 
weeks,  there  will  be  only  a small  percent 
injured  as  some  have  already  their  fruit 
set  or  not  far  enough  advanced  to  be 
damaged,  insuring  almost  a full  crop,  so 
don’t  let  us  be  hasty  to  condemn  the 
seedling  tree  until  we  have  had  exper- 
ience with  both  kinds — grafted  and 
seedling  trees. 


Two  Years  After. 


As  time  goes  on  I find  I made  a wise 
move  when  I decided  eleven  years  ago 
to  plant  my  land  to  walnuts. 

Time  Proves  Judgment  Good. 

From  a financial  standpoint  our  trees 
are  doing  all  that  can  be  expected.  They 
are  repaying  the  capital  we  invested  to 
raise  and  bring  them  into  bearing.  I am 
often  asked  what  income  one  can  expect 
of  a walnut  grove,  and  how  many  nuts  a 
tree  has  to  bear  to  pay  interest  on  capital 
invested.  Take  our  grove,  for  instance, 
where  we  planted  the  trees  50  feet  in  the 
square,  about  18  trees  to  the  acre,  it  will 
only  take  35  pounds  of  nuts  per  tree  at 
16  cents  a pound  to  bring  10  per  cent  on 
$1000.00  per  acre  land.  There  are  many 
[7] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


of  our  trees  that  are  in  their  11th  year’s 
growth,  which  have  fifty  pounds  or  more 
of  nuts  this  year.  Many  of  the  trees  in 
the  Thomas  Prince  grove,  which  are  in 
their  20th  year’s  growth,  have  three, 
four  and  more  sacks  of  walnuts  this 
year.  Our  first  three  plantings  of  25 
acres,  where  the  trees  are  in  their  9th, 
10th  and  11th  year’s  growth,  and  which 
are  all  seedlings,  brought  last  year 
128  1-2  sacks,  or  three  tons  of  nuts,  of 
which  only  eleven  sacks  were  second 
grade.  This  year  these  trees  are  bear- 
ing heavier  than  ever  before,  and  be- 
ing larger,  we  believe  double  of  last 
year’s  crop  will  be  the  result.  Our 
7-year-old  seedlings  are  coming  into 
bearing.  Some  of  these  trees  had  a fine 
crop  of  nuts  at  six  years  of  age,  while 
this  year  every  tree  has  more  or  less 
walnuts  of  a fine  grade. 

Our  Best  Paying  Trees. 

Our  grafted  trees  had  a promising 
outlook  for  a good  crop  the  fore  part  of 
the  season,  but  unfortunately,  as  in 
past  years,  the  blight  will  reduce  the 
yield.  At  the  present  time,  just  before 
harvest,  these  grafted  trees  show  from 
50  to  60  per  cent  blight.  There  seems  to 
be  not  a single  tree  immune  from  it.  On 
the  other  hand,  as  I wrote  two  years 
ago,  we  have  hundreds  of  seedling  trees 
that  are  entirely  free  from  blight.  So  I 
find  at  the  present  time,  our  seedlings 
are  our  best  paying  trees,  until  such 
time  as  a remedy  for  blight  is  found,  if  it 
ever  will  be  found. 

Are  Fillers  Advisable. 

I am  also  often  asked  if  it  would  be 
advisable  to  use  a filler  with  walnut  trees. 
This  depends  entirely  on  the  size  of  your 
pocketbook.  If  you  can  afford  to  plant  a 
walnut  grove  and  are  willing  to  wait  un- 
til your  trees  bring  returns,  I would  not 
18] 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


advise  to  use  a filler,  as  the  walnut  trees 
planted  by  themselves  and  having  and 
getting  the  full  strength  of  the  soil 
they  grow  in,  make  a more  vigorous 
growth  and  bear  heavier.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  you  like  to  have  an  income  from 
your  land  until  your  walnut  trees  come 
into  bearing,  I would  advise  a filler.  In 
our  neighborhood  the  Italian  prune  brings 
the  best  returns,  starting  with  seven 
years  of  age.  It  is  safe  to  plant  walnut 
trees  where  the  Italian  prune  will  bear 
and  where  the  prune  blossoms  are  not  in- 
jured by  frost.  There  are  many  prune 
orchards  planted  on  low  ground  or  in  the 
frost  line,  and  the  crop  of  these  orchards 
is  not  always  certain.  To  plant  walnuts 
on  this  same  kind  of  ground,  would 
make  the  nut  crop  as  uncertain  as  the 
prune  crop.  Prunes  make  a fine  filler 
with  walnuts  on  higher  ground,  that  is, 
land  that  is  fairly  free  of  frost.  When 
prunes  begin  to  bear  they  have  to  be 
cultivated  a little  later  in  the  season,  a 
little  longer  than  walnut  trees  have  to  be 
cultivated.  Consequently  you  have  a 
more  tender  growth  on  your  walnut  trees 
late  in  the  season,  which  may  easily  be 
damaged  by  an  early  Fall  frost  if 
located  on  low  ground,  as  was  the  case 
last  year.  If  you  intend  to  plant  a wal- 
nut grove  on  low  ground  where  the  trees 
may  be  injured  by  an  early  Fall  frost,  it 
would  be  advisable  to  plant  a filler  that 
does  not  need  as  late  cultivation  as  the 
prune.  Some  of  my  trees  that  are  plant- 
ed on  low  ground  I do  not  cultivate  after 
the  15th  of  June,  consequently  have 
never  lost  any  new  growth.  If  you  plant 
walnut  trees  and  use  prunes  as  fillers, 
the  walnuts  should  not  be  planted  closer 
than  60  feet,  or  every  third  row.  In  my 
last  planting  they  are  planted  80  feet 
apart.  If  you  do  this  you  will  have  a 
large  number  of  prune  trees  left  when 
[9J 


Walnut  Growing  in  Oregon 


you  have  to  begin  to  take  out  some  of 
them  to  make  room  for  the  walnuts, 
which  need  not  be  done  before  the  wal- 
nuts are  16  or  18  years  old.  The  rest  of 
the  prune  trees  can  be  removed  when 
they  are  20  or  25  years  old. 

Elements  of  Success. 

Just  a few  words  more  to  those  who 
intend  to  plant  walnuts  the  coming 
Spring.  Prepare  your  soil  in  the  most 
thorough  way  you  can.  If  you  can  afford 
it,  plow  at  least  12  inches  or  more  deep. 
Remember  this  will  be  your  last  chance 
to  do  so.  Plant  your  trees  very  care- 
fully. Rather  plant  15  or  20  a day  and 
have  them  grow  well,  than  plant  40  or 
50  or  as  some  do  100  trees  a day,  and 
have  later  -a  stunted  tree.  Cultivate 
thoroughly  and  persistently.  Make  up 
your  mind  to  be  as  enthusiastic  about 
your  walnut  grove  in  six  or  eight  years 
from  now  as  the  day  you  are  planting 
them  and  you  will  succeed.  If  you  buy 
the  best  trees  in  the  market  and  do  not 
give  them  the  best  of  care  for  at  least 
seven  or  eight  years,  you  may  be  disap- 
pointed. Don’t  leave  everything  to  the 
hired  help.  They  are  naturally  not  as 
much  interested  in  the  welfare  of  your 
trees  as  you  are  yourself.  If  you  follow 
this  advice,  you  will  never  regret  that 
you  planted  a walnut  grove. 


[10] 


A 4-year-old  Vrooman  Franquette  Walnut  belonging  to 
L.  E.  Blaine,  of  Albany,  Oregon,  which  is  estimated  to 
have  a half  bushel  of  walnuts  on  it. 


[11] 


MR.  CHAS.  TRUNK 
IN  HIS  GROVE 
ADMIRING  THE 
GOLDEN 
NUGGETS 
AS  THEY 
HAVE  BEEN 
COLLECTED 
UNDER  THE 
TREE 


<J  The  Vrooman  Franquette  is  the 
most  aristocratic  nut  on  the  market, 
brings  the  highest  price  and  is 
called  for  by  the  best  trade.  Plant 
the  Vrooman  Franquette  if  you  want 
the  winner.