Beautify your yard

Historic, Archive Document

Do not assume content reflects current
scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.

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“Beautify Your Yard”

A book showing “how’’— explaining briefly the aims of
Landscape Gardening as applied to the “small place’’— an
index to the most satisfactory plants and their proper use

CONTENTS

PAGE
How To Begin 3
The Making and Care of a Lawn D
Walks and Pathways ; : 2 0
Gateways and Entrances 7
Porches Made Pleasant | pos
Around the Base of the House . ; . 10
Shrubbery, and How To Arrange It ; paved
Hedges and Screen Planting 13
Hardy Border (Perennials). ; ees!
Single Specimens (Trees, Nvergreens, Grasses, Etc.) : 16
Porch Plants, Window-boxes and Hanging Baskets atu
Annuals and Flower Beds i : 18
Cultural Directions . : : Ree AO)

Diagram and Perspective View of a Place Properly Planted ; Also
a List of the Plants Used ; ; 5 ANON 25)

Copyrighted 1906 by
THE CONARD: & JONES €O.
WESEXGROVE, WAG. (Us xs Ae

Second Edition, Revised 1907

INTRODUCTION

O universal has seemed to us the demand for information about
Plants, Vines and Trees and how to use them, especially for the
small place, that we have prepared this little book.

The constant aim in its preparation has been to make it, first
of all, practically helpful ; to give simple, definite, workable suggestions—
to take up the different conditions with which the average planter has to
contend, and to show briefly what plants to buy, and how to arrange
them, to obtain the best results and most lasting satisfaction.

This information is usually expensive and hard te get; but we believe
this little work will put the salient points within easy reach of every one
who really cares to know, and will show him how to make the outside of
his home beautiful and attractive.

The lists of Plants furnished are limited purposely ; they include the
choicest things only—kinds that do best and please most. Descriptions
have been omitted because so fully given in our Catalogue.

The diagram on page 25 is not stereotyped; it is suggestive. The
plants there named and numbered may be divided into a dozen different
groups, and each group, perfect in itself, prove suitable for a similar
situation in your yard. For example: Take the group on the north side
of the house ; those very plants may be expected to thrive and please on
the north side of your home, if conditions are similar ; so with the group
of shrubs at the southeast corner of the house, with the vines about the
porch, the arbor group, the street trees, the border of old-fashioned
flowers in the rear, and so forth all around. Any of these suggestions
may be applicable to your own home lawn.

Few people realize what a far-reaching effect one prettily planted
place has on the surrounding community. Its beauty is contagious.
Others will see and try to follow the example,—so that everyone who
improves his home grounds becomes, in a double sense, a public benefactor.

There is one point, however, which we feel that we must add—we
cannot do it all—we can only suggest; but if you use reasonably good
judgment in adapting to your particular conditions the simple basic prin-
ciples and ideas here outlined, we feel confident that you will obtain re-
sults both successful and gratifying.

1

This beautiful bank of Hardy Shrubbery serves a treble purpose: first, it forms a defi-
nite border for the broad, unbroken lawn; second, it effectively screens the service buildings from
view of the house; and, third, in itself it furnishes a succession of brilliant bloom from early
Spring till frost, and then bright-berried fruit.

“Beautify Your Yard”

E Americans are every year coming to live more and
more out-of-doors. We are just beginning to appreciate
what a wealth of enjoyment there is to be had in the
sunshine and open air. We have been guilty, sometimes,

of making the inside of our home rich in beauty and comfort, while our
“narlor” out-of-doors was left quite bare and in appearance entirely un-
worthy of the people who lived inside.

But it is different now, for we are coming out and learning the joy
of living with flowers around us ; therefore, while we are planning to do
this, let us do it right.

Our motive, in landscape gardening, should be to make a picture of
the grounds about our home, so that, whether we look from without or
from within, the prospect will be pleasing.

How, then, may this be done?

Whether we have but a little dooryard or a lawn on a larger scale,
there are a few simple basic principles which, if carefully observed, will
help us wonderfully. First, avoid scattered effects; bunch or mass the
planting, keep one or more spaces open and plant the sides or boundaries
with sets or groups of plants. A few single or individual specimens may
then be used where they seem best to fit.

Remember that the lawn is our canvas on which we must place
the plants with consummate care; arrange the walks and drives
where they are most needed ; leave open desirable views, and, if possible,
have a good prospect from every window (including the kitchen).
Screen undesirable objects from sight by the use of shrubs or trees, and
work hardest of all for an even growth of soft and rich green lawn.

When building a house one first makes a plan, and so should it be
when planting the grounds around the house. It is easy to change things
on paper, but a tree once set is hard to move. Therefore, first of all,
make a plan of what you intend; you will find that it pays.

“Simple desires, with every desire
Well planned and well carried out,
Result in the best” lawns.

3

<—

A beautiful lawn, with a vine-clad house that looks home-like, cool and pleasant

Consider, first, the size, shape and lay of your ground; second, how
much money you can spend in beautifying it, and then what plants will
succeed best with you and how they should be arranged.

If your lawns and walks are already established, omit the next two
pages, but, if you have a new place, begin here:—It is of the utmost
importance to have the lawn properly graded. It looks best to have the
ground slope away from the house. See that the fall is sufficient to carry
off the water, and get rid of little mounds and hollows so as to have a
smooth, even surface. Avoid terraces, if you can; they are difficult to
keep up.

Study soils. Remember that plants need nourishment ; provide good
soil and good drainage all over your lawn and especially close around
your house, where builders so often fill in with cellar dirt. The kind of
soil to be found directly under an old sod is usually best. Commercial
fertilizer or thoroughly decayed stable manure is also invaluable.

In years to come, you will find that it paid out of all proportion to
the cost to thus establish a good foundation for both turf and plants.

4

THE MAKING AND CARE OF
A LAWN

T is now well understood that there is no one feature that adds so much
to the handsome and attractive appearance of a place as a clean and
well-kept lawn. (See illustration opposite.) For the slope of a terrace or
steep bank sods may be used to advantage, but on an even sweep or
plot of lawn the best results may be secured by sowing grass seed on
ground that has first had most thorough preparation. Having obtained a
foundation of good soil properly graded, plow (or dig) harrow, roll and
rake it well. Grass roots strike deep if the soil is right, and the better the
grass is rooted the better it will stand the dry weather ; therefore, make
the soil as mellow, fine and smooth as you can. Next, put on plenty of
seed, more rather than less than the directions call for (5 bushels to the
acre, or a quart to 300 sq. ft.), then the seed should be lightly raked in
and the ground rolled. Be careful, until the sod becomes firm, to keep off
animals or anything that might track or deface the soft soil; for this
reason it is well to plant trees or shrubs before seeding the lawn, or else
wait until the grass be thoroughly established. Start the lawn-mower
early, and use it at least once a week except in dry weather. Frequent
trimming of the grass will induce a smooth and even growth.

Lawns should
have a top-dressing
at least once a
year (Spring is best)
of fine ground bone
or some other good
commercial fertil-
izer (500 to 1,000
lbs. to the acre).
Canada hard-wood
ashes are also to be
recommended, and
have not the un-
pleasant odor or ap-
pearance of stable
manure, which
otherwise is good. An open lawn bordered all around with flowers

h)

A good walk, very poorly planted. There should be a bush or a small clump of shrubs
placed in the curve of the path

WALKS AND PATHWAYS.

eS proper location for the walks will depend largely upon the shape

and size of a place. Do not place a walk where it is not needed and,
if you can, wait till the need develops. Let it be direct, not straight
necessarily, for curves are pleasing to the eye; but let the curve be made
with reason,—to look well, and, above all, to be convenient.

For a hard, smooth walk easily kept clean, cement or concrete, sand-
stone or flagstone are all good, and, if properly laid with substantial
foundation and drainage, should last for years. Board walks do for cer-
tain places, but will soon need repairing. Crushed stone or cinders make
a good, dry pathway if thoroughly packed and given a solid foundation
below frost line. These are not so slippery in icy weather as the smooth
stone walks, but will need new top-dressing occasionally. Turf walks,
pine needles and tan-bark are also sometimes used.

6

GATEWAYS AND ENTRANCES

HE entrance shown on front cover page was made by training the
rich foliage of the graceful American Ivy (Ampelopsis quinquefolia)
over wooden gate-posts. Stone or brick gateways are more substantial,
and, when covered with the Boston or English Ivy, may be very handsome.
A less expensive, though attractive effect may be obtained by the use of
shrubs. Select varieties of uniform growth, and plant either singly or in
groups on either side. Berberis Thunbergii is pretty for single specimens,
as are also Spireas, Altheas, Deutzias and the Japan Maple, if there is
room. Yucca filamentosa is low in growth and for many reasons suitable
where but a small piece is desired.

Or a very pretty gateway may be made by arranging a wire archway
over the entrance and having it covered with some kind of climbing
vines, such as Honeysuckle, Clematis, Ivy or running Roses. If artificial
support is impossible, a pair of hardy shrubs or small trees may be
placed on either side of
the entrance. The old-
fashioned Smoke Tree
(Rhus Cotinus) or the Cal-
ifornia Privet may be
used and made to form a
very pretty archway. If
there be a hedge along the
front of your property,
with a little care and
pruning, turrets or post-
like effects may be
developed on either side
of the entrance.

Finally, whatever way
the entrance is treated,
always have a few shrubs
at either side, so that the
transition from lawn to
gate-post, natural arbor
or archway may not be

A Phlox-bordered path to the rear entrance, which is
abrupt. covered with American Ivy

7

Climbing Nasturtiums have been used at the base of the porch, Clematis paniculata on the
near corner, and Honeysuckle over the steps

PORCHES MADE PLEASANT

Vie people almost live on their porch in summer time, and find in it

untold pleasure. Have you tried it? Have simple furniture (chairs,
a table, and rugs, if you please) and—look to your vines. Start them
early in the spring and provide for them good support (strings may
break ; better use wire or a trellis). Plant the vines near the base of the
post or column where you wish them to grow, and, unless there is some-
thing you wish to screen, never cover the space between the posts, but
leave it open for light and air and the leaf-framed picture it gives.
(Note how this idea is illustrated on pages 4 and 5.)

The very good vines or climbers number less than a dozen. First,
the Honeysuckle: it is a hardy, vigorous grower, almost evergreen, and
will grow in sunshine or shade. It has sweet-scented flowers and makes
a good thick screen of foliage almost anywhere. (See picture, page 4.)

Then comes the Clematis; the Japan variety (Paniculata), with its deli-
cate feathery blossoms, is pleasing and popular, makes a magnificent
show when in bloom, and is well named the “Virgin’s Bower.” The large-
flowered English Clematis are good, but a little hard to start and make
a less dense growth.

Plant climbing Roses. It is better to have them a little bit back,
~ where their thorns will not catch in your clothing.

Wistarias are odd and unique. They will climb to the top of the
house, if allowed, and the bloom is beautiful.

Grape-vines are not only hardy and ornamental, but are also pro-
ductive, and will doubly repay your care. There are many other vines
with less to recommend them, e. g., Akebia quinata, Matrimony Vine,
Trumpet Flower (Bignonia); this last one is better for stumps or stone
walls.

For covering a large space quickly get Dolichos Japonica. It has huge
overlapping leaves, and a fair-sized root will often produce 15 to 40 feet
of growth in a season. It is also hardy, as are all the above vines, and,
when once established, will last for years.

Hardy Perennial Vines have hardy roots, but the tops die down when
frost comes. Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia Sipho), shown in illustra-
tion on this page, is a good example.

Hardy vines are best to get, but rather slow to start. Therefore,
plant annuals between them to enjoy while you are waiting for the
others to grow. Moonflowers, Morning-glories, Passion Flowers, Madeira
Vines, first, and then Cobea scandens, Sweet Peas and Climbing Nas-
turtiums. They are all good,
simple and inexpensive.
They require early plant-
ing and rich soil for best
results.

In addition to porches,
do not forget the supreme
usefulness of vines above
suggested for covering ar-
bors, bowers, pergolas,
fences, walls, stumps and

rocks. Vines are nature’s .
best beautifiers. A cool place on a hot summer day (see description above)

AROUND THE BASE OF THE HOUSE

G) purpose here should be to soften the rigid stiffness of the build-

ing and unite it to the lawn and the surrounding grounds. When
this has been accomplished, stop! That is to say, do not bury the house
under Ivies nor bank it deep with shrubs ; do not overdo.

Vines and Ives are always good if they do not conceal, but rather
emphasize the architectural forms and features ; at least one-third of the
outside wall should be free from them, however, to get the best effect.
Shrubs are always good in the right place and number.

Wherever the walls change their direction, that is, at the corners,
and in the angles made by wing or porch, is the place for planting, but
do not use the same kind of planting for both these situations. Flower-
ing vines or climbers, such as Roses, Wistarias or Honeysuckles, go in the
shelter of angles, while the exposure of corners requires some shrubbery,
not tall, but of sturdy growth, with groups and plantings of perennials

The illustration herewith shows a very pretty effect produced with pink or white Geraniums
edged with Sweet Alyssum (with a Rose to the right of the porch)

10

or annuals along the walls
between.

The shady side need
not be bare and forlorn-
looking, for many things
thrive in the shade. For
the wall, if it be brick or
stone, plant English Ivy
(Hedera Helix). It is ever-

green and will cling of
Exsterssx(a\ goed (Border plant) itself. Honeysuckle is
good for the north side, too, though it will need some support to
climb on.

For the base of the house on the shady side, use Lilies-of-the-valley,
Day Lilies (Funkias), Pansies, Violets, Myrtle, Anemones, Bluebells, and
best of all are the Hardy Ferns—they revel in shade, are easily trans-
planted, strong growers and nearly evergreen. Tuberous-rooted Begonias
are excellent, too, though not hardy.

Of the shrubs, Azaleas, Weigelas and Calycanthus are worthy a
place ; and do not forget the early spring-flowering bulbs that you
plant in the fall—Hyacinths, Tulips, Snowdrops and countless others.
These bulbs will bloom in the early spring, after which they may be
replaced by other things.

For the sunny side.—With good soil, sunshine and not too wide
overhanging eaves to keep the rain off, there is almost no limit to the
plants to be placed around the sunny side of the house.

Among the Annuals suitable are — Asters, Alyssum, Begonias, Coleus,
Geraniums, Petunias and Canna Lilies (the dwarf ones are best here).

The Hardy Herbaceous Plants offer the greatest assortment—with
Iris, Daisies, Delphiniums, Peonies, Phlox and the like. These are most
pleasing in groups (choose colors that do not clash, and be careful to ar-
range the tall-growing kinds in back, if there be room for two or more
rows).

Of the Shrubs, use Deutzias, Spireas, Calycanthus and Forsythia, but
avoid planting tall shrubs and trees close to the house; it has nothing to
recommend it. Shade the windows with awnings or outside blinds, and
give free scope to the breezes. In winter you'll want the sunshine, so
plant the trees away from the house and let in the air and light.

ll

SHRUBBERY AND HOW TO ARRANGE IT

PLANT shrubs in groups, and never trim them so that open spaces
show between, but let them grow together in an easy flowing
mass.

Thus they will serve as a border around your lawn, to soften the
sharp corners of your building or to screen from view the kitchen walk
or some other undesirable object.

Large screens should always be a combination of low- and high-grow-
ing shrubs, the latter behind the former, of course, unless it is to be
viewed from both sides, in which case the center should be highest. Make
the screen itself as attractive as possible, so that it will hold one’s
interest without arousing curiosity about what is beyond. (An excellent
example of such an arrangement is shown on page 2.)

Select the shrubs that go into a group so as to have them not only of
the proper proportionate height, but also of colors that harmonize, and
to give a succession of bloom.

Do not forget that a clump, mass or screen of shrubbery is the finest
possible background against which to plant Hardy Perennials ; see page 14.

Diagram page 25 shows several groups of shrubs that are well
arranged ; for customers who wish to make combinations to fit other
conditions the following will be helpful.

Here are six standard varieties of shrubs that may be planted
together, and they will harmonize in every way. (Month given indicates
time of bloom.)

Largest.—Viburnum (June); Syringa (May).

Medium Size.—Altheas, Hydrangeas (Aug. and Sept.).

Smaller.—Forsythia (May); Spirea (July).

You may arrange these into almost any shaped bed you like (remem-
bering to put the largest ones in the middle or rear), and there is no
limit to the size of the group; simply increase the number of each
variety, and you may count upon a bloom period extending from May to
October, with the effect always a pleasing one. :

Among the other most satisfactory kinds are :

Tall.—Mock Orange, Golden Elder, Cornus, Upright Honeysuckle and
Fringe Tree.

Medium.— Weigela, Cydonia, Calycanthus.

Smaller.—Japan Quince, Deutzia, Red and Blue Spireas.

12

HEDGES AND SCREEN PLANTING

[° boundaries are to be marked (and properties as a rule need some

definite outline), there is no better way of indicating it than by a
hedge, (hedges of all sorts, informal and unclipped as well as formal and
clipped.)

The word usually brings to mind a long, dark, sheared wall of ever-
green, such, for example, as that shown in this illustration (p.13). And,
all things considered, perhaps there is no more popular or all-round satis-
factory hedge plant than the California Privet. It is a hardy vigorous
grower almost anywhere, will bear close pruning at any season; in short,
you can handle it about as you like, and it is nearly evergreen.

Another handsome hedge plant is the Japan Barberry; it makes quite
a uniform growth, and, as a rule, looks best untrimmed; it has little
orange-colored blossoms, followed by the crimson fruit.

How to Set the Hedge. To make a good, satisfactory hedge, the ground
should be as well prepared as for the growth of shrubs or trees, and, in digging the
trench for the reception of plants, the top-soil should be kept separate from the
clay or subsoil. Set the plants six to eight inches apart, filling in around the roots
with the top-soil, at the same time firming it down with the feet. After the plants
are set, long stable manure may be applied on top, which will answer as a mulch during
dry weather, while stimulat-
ing a vigorous growth. Some
much prefer a double-row
hedge, and if such is desired
the trench should be wider
and the plants set alternately
at six or eight inches apart,
forming,in a remarkably short
time, an excellent hedge.

The first requirement of
a good hedge, whether for
beauty or for a close screen,
is numerous side branches
near to the ground, and, at time
of transplanting, the plants
should be cut back severely
to encourage the sprouting of
side growth, shortened down
A well-trimmed Privet hedge as low as to within six in-

13

ches of the ground, and continuously cut back until sufficient strong lateral
branches are developed to insure a close and healthy growth near the ground. As
all shrubs when planted tend to grow only at the top, in no other way than by cut-
ting back can a perfect hedge be made. After the necessary lateral growth has
been obtained, the top should be cut a little higher at each trimming until the de-
sired height has been reached. For small lawns a hedge two or three feet high,
and pruned in triangular or conical shape, is the most ornamental.

Pruning a Privet hedge may be done at any season of the year, and with-
out the slightest injury to the plants. Constant pruning stimulates a strong, com-
pact growth, and a perfect, low-branched hedge may be had the second season af-
ter planting.

Other Hedge Plants.—Aside from the two varieties above mentioned
there are many beautiful flowering shrubs that are never thought of in
this connection, which make splendid informal hedges: the Hydrangeas
we are so familiar with, Lilacs, some of the Spireas, the Altheas, and the
Prairie and Rugosa Roses.

The Japan Quince, or Pyrus Japonica, is another that may be kept
trimmed like the Privet, and in the early spring will make a great show
with its flowers of brilliant red.

HARDY BORDER (PERENNIALS)

N all branches of landscape gardening, it is not so much what is

planted as how it is planted. The most beautiful things are ata

disadvantage if badly arranged, while the least attractive plants, well
arranged, take on beauty and distinction.

There is no arrangement for flowers that can excel the “border.” It
conforms to formal or informal lines equally well, and is a never-wearying
delight wherever the eye falls upon it, whether following a walk, in front
of a wall or enclosing a lawn.

Whether it shall be mixed or composed of a single variety is a ques-
tion for the individual. Many plants of a few varieties rather than a few
of many varieties is a rule that holds good throughout all landscape
planting, and produces the most restful effect always ; but one may use,
in the mixed border, a dozen different things with good results. Always
plant several of each variety together, except in the case of very luxu-
riant and spreading plants, where one may be enough.

A little border of some dwarf plant, outlining the whole, is a good
finish, and, where the border follows a walk, there should be turf next the
walk as a final division between the two.

14

We have already referred to hardy shrubbery for border planting,
but no border can be quite complete without the good old-fashioned
Hardy Perennials, most of which flowers “our grandmothers grew.”
Some think them the most valuable class of plants in the garden. They
are so easily grown, perfectly hardy and when established will last for
years. They are inexpensive to start, particularly valuable for their
wealth of brilliantly colored blossoms, while their beauty, variety and.
lasting qualities make them highly prized for cut-flowers.

Well done! A disappearing pathway delightfully bordered with Hardy Perennials

If our choice were confined to only six, we should choose Peonies,
Phlox, Iris, Hollyhocks, Violets an1 Garden Pinks; but it would cause
great regret to think of getting along without the Digitalis, Rudbeckia,
Anemones, Bluebells, Daisies and Larkspur, and it would be easy to-
mention others.

Notice in illustration above how the Phlox, Gaillardias, Veronicas and
other things are growing so harmoniously together alongside of the “dis-
appearing path,” which is edged with boxwood.

15

SINGLE SPECIMENS

Trees.—The trees on a small place must be planted sparingly, and
each kind should be chosen with care. Aim to shade the side walk and
your own entrance walk, but keep them away from the house. A part of
the principal lawn space should have the shade of, at least, one tree,
with a seat placed under it or built around its trunk. Trees like the
Norway Maple or Linden give the best shade, and the fragrance of the
latter when in blossom is world-famous.

On the lawn at the side and rear of the house, there is every good
reason for the planting of fruit trees,—especially the Apples and Cherries.
What can surpass the beauty of these when in full bloom? Then, too, they
give us shade, attract the birds and also bring us fruit enough to pay
their board many times over. Do not stop with these, but if you have room,
add Peaches, Pears and Plums, and plant the best kinds you can get.

On a small lawn the space is too valuable to be taken up with isolated
specimens, unless it be a pair of fine plants to flank the entrance or
porch steps. Barberries, Japanese Maples, Hydrangeas or Rugosa Roses
are frequently used for this purpose.

Evergreens.—Some of the smaller Evergreens may find room on
the edges of the lawn with good effect, or be used to carry out any bit
of formal work that one wishes to undertake within the limits of an ordi-
nary place; however, it is a mistake to use many Evergreens or to use
those of unusual color. The latter especially are at their best only when
seen against a true green and at some distance.

Grasses.—For adding variety to the shrubbery group, there is nothing
else can quite take the place of the hardy, tall-growing grasses. They
are inexpensive, increase rapidly and have a graceful, tropical appear-
ance. In the fall, they bloom into beautiful plumes which may be dried,
cut and kept indoors all winter.

Ivies.—Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchit) is the most civilized. It is
clean, neat and most satisfying in every way. Extremely ornamental (see
page 4), and is more universally used on city houses than any other one
we know. American Ivy (Ampelopsis quinquefolia) is better for stumps,
fences, arbors, etc., is rather wild in its growth, is occasionally bothered
with insects, but colors up beautifully in the fall. English Ivy (Hedera
Helix) is evergreen and does best on the shady side of a house, or makes
a thick mat of green on the ground. It seldom winter-kills.

16

PORCH PLANTS, WINDOW-BOXES AND
HANGING BASKETS

yoN HOUSE with no yard at all may enjoy these. In England one often
sees cramped quarters fairly bedecked with flowers and vines; thus
does the English working man convert his cottage into a veritable
little Paradise; and
there is no good rea-
son why his Ameri-
can cousin, with more
room, as a rule, can-
not do the same.
After the vines
have been planted,
there is nothing that
will add so much to
the summer loveliness
of the porch as plants
in jardinieres or porch-
boxes and hanging

baskets. . E
J ardinieres. — Successful use of porch- and window-boxes

Palms, Ferns and Rubber Plants give greatest satisfaction for this pur-
pose, because they are gracefully decorative and will last for years. They
thrive in the shade and will stand heat and dust, but not cold weather.
Araucarias, Crotons, Cyperus alternifolia and Asparagus are also good. _

Another excellent idea is to plant Kenilworth Ivy or Tradescantia near
the edges, so it will grow over and hang down to quite cover the sides.

Porch- and Window-Boxes.—The most suitable size for these is
usually six or eight inches deep by ten or twelve inches wide and as long
as you desire. You can buy these or make them, just as you like, and, if
improvised, paint them some pretty shade (say green). Put a layer of
little stones, pieces of broken crocks or charcoal in the bottom for drain-
age, then fill with rich soil to within one inch of the top. Set plants from
six to twelve inches apart, depending upon their size.

For outside boxes in early spring, nothing is finer than Pansies, Vio-
lets, Bellis, Forget-me-nots and bulbs (the latter should be planted in
the fall). Later, these may be replaced with the following :

17

For sunny exposures.—Geraniums, Salvias, Petunias and Coleus, and,
if you want more, add Achyranthus, Ageratums, Begonias, Marguerites,
Snapdragons and Verbenas. For planting along the edge of the boxes to
hang down over the sides, use Alyssum, Parlor Ivy, Vincas, Tradescantias,
Nasturtiums and Morning-glories.

For shady places.—Fuchsias, Begonias, Palms, Ferns, Draceenas and
Feverfew, and for the edges use Ivies, Vincas and Dusty Miller.

Hanging baskets should be suspended as near the light as possible, in
windows or on the porch. Remember they are exposed to the air on all
sides, and hence will need more water. The same plants suggested for
window-boxes will do well here too, especially the hanging ones, and if
you want to make sure of one beautiful and satisfactory hanging-basket
plant get Asparagus plumosus or A. Sprengeri or New Weeping Lantana
“Mrs. McKinley.” A basket or box made up of one or two kinds of plants
is usually more pleasing than too much of a mixture.

ANNUALS AND FLOWER BEDS

EL is often desirable, especially when a place is first planted, to use

some flowers that will make a rapid growth and produce immediate
results. For this purpose there is nothing more satisfactory than the
Annuals, either for making solid beds or for edging shrubbery borders
or along the porch or walks.

The two most satisfactory plants for this purpose are Cannas and
Geraniums. With only a little care, both may be kept in constant brilliant
bloom all summer, and till frost.

Geraniums are all about the same height, twelve to fifteen inches, but
Cannas can be had in all sizes (from two and one-half to eight feet ), with
flowers in forty different shades and foliage, green and bronze. A fine
effect in a row or bed is made by planting only one or, at the most, very
few colors together. Use the tall-growing kinds for the center or rear, and
dwarf ones for outside edge. Plant the Geraniums twelve inches apart
and the Cannas eighteen inches.

The best dwarf plants for edging beds are Coleus, Alyssum, Ageratum
or Fancy-leaved Geraniums. For second choice, use Achyranthus, Atrva,
Alternantheras and Oxalis.

The Scarlet Sage (Salvia splendens) is a fine plant to border beds and
also splendid when planted alone.

18

Dahlias have been much improved recently and deserve notice. They
should be planted four inches deep, and two feet apart in a sunny place
and in good rich soil. They are rich feeders, but do not begin blooming
until late summer.

Another plant that is most valuable because of its rapid growth is the
tall-growing, broad-leaved Ricinus Cambodgensis, or Castor-oil Plant.
Start the seeds in the early spring and you can have plants eight or ten
feet high by July. To be sure, they last only until frost, but they make a
very effective screen, and with their rich, variegated bronze coloring pro-
duce a beautiful effect. Another huge-leaved plant that makes a low but
effective screen is the Caladium, or Elephant’s Ear.

ROSES

HE “Queen of Flowers” should find a place on every modern lawn.

First, of course, come those for the Rose beds, with climbers for

the porch; then Roses for an archway or arbor, and for covering some

unsightly stump, bank or fence. And do not forget the rare, choice
kinds that add so much of interest to every collection.

But an entire book is required to do the Rose fair justice —so we
publish one—send for it. Its sixteen pages tell things you need to
know about what kinds to get and how to get the most out of them.
Also send for our new Floral Guide —we think it is quite the most
complete and satisfactory Rose catalogue in America.

As we have no connectlon whatever with any other concern, do not
confuse the name, but address, The Conard & Jones Co., West Grove, Pa.

SUMMER-FLOWERING BULBS

HIS is a class that should not be overlooked, by any means, and con-
tains a number of very attractive and most satisfactory items ; for
example, Gladioli and Tuberoses, too well known to need description here,
and excellent for placing along borders of shrubbery or to make a bed of
themselves. Indeed, they do well in the old-fashioned garden or among
the Hardy Perennials. Set them out as soon as the ground is warm,
about two inches deep, in fairly good soil with some sand, and they will
produce exquisite bloom spikes.

19

CULTURAL DIRECTIONS FOR SHRUBBERY, HARDY
HERBACEOUS PLANTS, CLIMBING VINES, ETC.

Wy very few exceptions, these are all hardy, vigorous plants that

require only fair ordinary treatment to have them grow and thrive
in the most satisfactory manner, and, as they all require the same general
treatment, differing only in application, we ask attention to the following
general principles, which will be found applicable to almost all kinds of
outdoor planting.

Of course you want good healthy, vigorous plants to begin with. This
is of the greatest importance, but if you get your supplies from a reliable
establishment you are not likely to have any difficulty on this account.

Another matter quite as important as the quality of the plants you
buy, and more likely to be overlooked, is, that all should be carefully dug
and lifted from the ground with as little injury to the roots as possible.
The small, fibrous roots are the most important, and too much care cannot
be taken to preserve them in fine growing condition, so that the plant may
start quick and strong. One of the worst things that can happen to a
plant during removal is that its roots should become dry. This means
almost certain death to the tender, fibrous roots, which are the principal
feeders, and, when they are injured and killed, the plant has to begin all
over again, and much delay in starting is the result, if, indeed, the plant
may not be seriously crippled or killed outright; therefore, every care
should be taken to keep the roots fresh and moist, and with as little
exposure to the air and sun as possible. All live plants and trees should
be packed in damp moss as soon as taken from the ground, so as to reach
the purchaser in fresh, lively condition, and, whenever possible, planted
immediately on arrival where they are to remain. When this is not con-
venient, they should be “heeled-in,” and when this is properly done they
will keep for weeks without injury. To do this, choose a convenient
place, where the ground is soft and mellow; dig a shallow trench wide
enough to hold the roots in their natural position, and a little deeper
than they stood before; then fill in the earth, taking care to work it
nicely under and around the roots, and tread down firmly with the feet.
You want to exclude the air and get all the roots in actual contact with
the earth. They will keep in this way for several weeks, and when lifted
from the trench will be as fresh and lively as ever.

If the roots are dry when received, they should be soaked in water for

20

several hours before planting, or “heeling-in,” so that the earth will
adhere to them. If they should be frozen, place the package unopened in
a dark cellar and leave long enough to thaw out. Freezing does no
harm if they thaw in this way.

When selecting ground for plants, remember that few things will
grow in wet soil. When planting, always dig a larger hole than the
roots require, as it is important that the ground should be loosened to
provide for good drainage, fresh air and moisture. Set the plant in the
ground in its natural position and a little bit deeper than it was grown,
fill in the earth slowly, taking care to work it in carefully around and
under the roots. Then pour in a pail or two of water, and finish by filling
in more dry earth and treading down firmly with the feet, so as to keep
the air out and get the roots in close contact with the soil.

Pruning.—When transplanting any kind of deciduous shrubbery,
vines or trees, pruning or cutting back the top is always necessary, be-
cause, while undisturbed, a healthy tree has roots enough to supply it
with all the nourishment it needs; but, when the roots are disturbed or
injured by being moved or transplanted, it is unable to supply the proper
nourishment to the leaves and branches until new rootlets are formed,
and during this time the tree must live on the sap it has already stored
up. If this becomes exhausted, the tree will die. To prevent this, it is
necessary to prune or cut away the top and branches somewhat in
proportion to the injury sustained by the roots, which can safely be
estimated at from one-third to one-half. To a beginner, this may seem
severe treatment; but it is the right course, and will result in quicker
stronger growth than can be got in any other way.

How to Prune.—Nearly all the pruning required by trees and
shrubbery is best done by shortening-in the branches regularly, and
entirely removing all dead or sickly wood all over the plant. This will
induce a close, even growth, and preserve the form which is desired.

The proper time to prune is very early in the spring or late in the
winter, before the sap starts. Always cut smoothly from the under side
of the branch.

Watering.—For shrubbery and trees watering is seldom necessary,
but a good mulch three or four inches thick of barnyard manure, forest
leaves, cut grass or garden litter is always desirable when convenient,
as it shades the ground and keeps it from drying out or freezing too
deeply.

21

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Bhat perspective on the opposite page gives a clearer idea of the
appearance of a place when planted according to the plan than one
can possibly get from looking at the bare plan itself. It shows the posi-
tion of the shrubs surrounding the open lawn spaces and defining the
boundaries, and it gives a suggestion of the air of seclusion, which private
grounds should always have, no matter how small they may be. On the
other hand, it shows that the place is not completely walled in and hidden
by planting. The trees in front hide much of this portion of the place from
the reader’s point of view, but from the sidewalk one looks directly across
the lawn to the bay windows, with no shrubs obstructing the view. A
portion of the front has been left unplanted for just this effect—to be
hospitable and inviting and to avoid forbidding and ostentatious privacy.
Along the side of the lot, the planting is carried back only a little way,
then another opening is left through which is a view of the side of the
house. This space, which might very easily be bare, and an ugly eyesore,
is made especially attractive by the group at the base of the house itself.
Following the principle of privacy and true outdoor living, the large
living-porch and the real flower garden are placed at the rear, where the
house itself screens them from the street, while the lawn for drying clothes
and attending to all kitchen duties is on the farther side, separated from
the purely pleasure lawn by the lattice and rose arbor.

This living-porch, if it is to be used as an outdoor room, must be
screened from the adjoining house as well as from the street. The climb-
ing Rose which is trained over it would not be dense enough by itself, but,
reinforced by the white birch, it makes a screen thick enough for privacy
without being stuffy and shutting out the air.

The drawing shows a brick wall starting at a point opposite the porch
and extending around the back part of the lot. A hedge of privet may be
substituted for this,—or a vine-covered fence if preferred. All of the
planting in the rear is grouped against this wall, leaving the open central
lawn, across which the shade of the linden, falling on hot summer after-
noons, will be cool and refreshing.

The shrubbery goes all the way around, with a flower border in front
of it, screening the vegetable garden and kitchen yard. The dwarf fruit
trees contribute no little portion to the beauty of the whole scheme, both
in their blossom and fruit. All small places would do well to make use of
these trees, for they can always be made a part of the ornamental plant-
ing, and they add variety and interest, as well as being useful.

23

KEY TO PLANTING PLAN OPPOSITE
SHOWING SHRUBS, TREES, PLANTS AND VINES USED

EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM. Circles indicate location of trees; letters P to Z inelu-
sive refer to their names as given below. Each plant, shrub, vine, etc., is numbered for
convenient reference to corresponding name and number below. The letter given after
each number on the plan (A to F inclusive) indicates the group to which that plant
belongs. On the order sheet, where all these plants are listed, we have (for the conve-
nience of customers who wish to order only a part of the plants) divided them into differ-
ent groups, each group being quite complete in itself, and offered at a special price.

Ree, Common 710712€ ae: ES ates oe Coninion name Ms Ls
1. Rose-colored Weigela . . 1 | 39> Hybrid Perpetuals 5 <2... 2
2. Wayfaring Tree ._ 4 40. Monthly, or Ever-blooming . . 12
pou eee PSMA VINES AND CLIMBERS
PENG Alesse een ees Ea 4 | 41. Virginia Creeper,orBostonIvy. 2
6. Silky Dogwood ne 4 | 42. Clematis “Virgin’s Bower” 1
7. Siberian Dogwood 4 a poetic etic i ut Sabee -
8. Mock Orange. . sae : | 45. Neskiees eae teats 1
9. Japanese Judas Tree. . . 1 | 6 E och ae Bis -
10. Rose of Sharon. . oe Aes AT. Glee ot “a erie 1
11. Spireea Van Houttei. . 2 18, Hardy iS RUS) oo) oe

12. Deutzia gracilis seeds eae . Hardy Ferns, in variety 3
13. Bridal Wreath Spirea.... Il HARDY PERENNIALS, or HERBA-
14. Allspice, or Sweet Shrub. . . 1 CEOUS PLANTS
15. Styrax Japonica ok 1 | 49. Lily-of-the- vee bie 6 ese
16. Hibiscus “Crimson Eye” . . 3 | 50. Violet ... Sis teria gS
17. Hibiscus Syriacus, or Althea SSilselankspUt ans Aitces san eeu eo

= Violet Claresa.-< teal | Coa Holy nOCKe wis cite Sapna lcs

18. Old-fashioned Snowball 4 | 53. Foxglove ......... 6
19. Japanese Snowball Pe 2 te bd Sweets Walliam) sc. 6
20. Weigela “Eva Rathke”. . . . 2 | 55. Anemones. . . 8

AieeAlthea dean duArcy . .)< 1 | 56. Hardy Chrysanthemums 6
22. Japanese Barberry . 2 | 57. Day Lily . Mey 1
23. Weigela Candida . . . 1 | 58. Milfoil, or Yarrow 2
24. White Fringe : ih) B85 Golden Glow . . 1
25. Deutzia Lemoinei. . . 1 | 60. Phlox . 15
26. Blue Spirea 5 1 | 61. Peonia..... 3
27. Hydrangea paniculata " prandi- 62. Hardy Lilies . . 8

floras 220. en tek ev eee Ooem TS ig 6

28. Forsythia Fortunei 1 | 64. Adam’s Needle, or Spanish Bay:

29. Golden Elder. . Bao onet 2
30. Common Lilac, Purple. . 2 TREES
31. Common Lilac, White . . 3 pepe hess: 1
32. Red Osier . . Share 2 Q, Cher ;
So sed apaneQuince = ati e ae 3 nf eee 1
34. Bush Honeysuckle. . . 2 Sepia 1
35. Deutzia gracilis rosea . . Pau Nees ay M aple 5)

ROSES V. White Birch : 1

36. Hardy Climbing : . .. 6 | W. Basswood, or American Linden 1
37. Ever-blooming Climbing ae ter or 5 Xce Double: flowered Crab 1
38a Rosa rugosa alba 2 | Y. Japanese Maple. . 4
38r Rosa rugosa rubra 2 | Z. Globe Arborvite i

J. HORACE McFARLAND COMPANY, MT. PLEASANT PRESS, HARRISBURG, PA.

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