We grow and have for sale a complete line of hardy trees and plants for the north and west

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OFFICE

STORAGE AND PACKING SHED IN THE REAR

Howard Lake & Victor Nurseries

W. H. EDDY, Prop.

HOWARD LAKE,

(LATITUDE 45% DEGREES)

MINNESOTA

We Grow and Have For Sale a Complete Line of

HARDY TREES AND PLANTS
FOR THE NORTH AND WEST

REFBREINC'EIS; The Bank of Howard Lake; American State Bank of

Howard Lake

Insiruciions: Read Carefully

TO OUR PATROLS AND FRIENDS:

We are thankful to oiur customers for your liberal patronage in se^
lecting your wants from varieties of our hardy trees and plants that we
are proipogating and growing in our nurseries.

It is of the greatest importance that you select varieties suited to your
wants adapted to your soil, and that will grow well in this Northern cli-
mate. We recommend only the varieties recommended by our State Horti
cultural Society and prove profitable and productive with us. We recog-
nize that the average planter is a husy person and has but little time to
devote to the study of varieties or the care necessary for the successful
growth of them, and in the prieparation of this instructive circular w'e
have endeavored to make it a guide both in the selection of stock and its
after treatment. Such descriptions and instructions are of the greatest
value for successful tree and plant growing.

The following are the varieties re-
commended by our State Horticultur-
al Society and are the hardiest and
most profitable to grow in this north-
ern climate.

APPLES

Of the first degree of hardiness:
Duchess, Hibernal, Patten^s Green-
ing, Okabeha^

Of the second degree of, hardiness:
Wealthy, Malinda, Anism, Iowa
Beauty, University, Lowland Rasp-
berry, JewelTs Winter, Milwaukee.

Valuable in solme locations: Wolf

River, Yellow Transparent, Longfield
Northwestern Greening, Tetoifisky,
PeerlestS.

Most profitable variieties for com-
mercial planting in Minnesota: Weal-
thy, Duchess, Patten’s Greening,
Okabena, Anism.

Recommended for top. working on
hardy stocks: Wealthy, Malinda, N.
W. Greening, Stayman’s Winesap,
Grimes’ Golden, Milwaukee, McIntosh

Vari3ties for trial: Eastman, Eve^
lyn, Windsor ChieL^, Gilbert.

CRABS AND HYBRIDS

For general cultivation: Florence,
Whitney, Early Strawberry, Sweelt
Russet, Transcendent^ Virginia.

Varieties for trial: Faribault,

Dart, Succicss.

PLUMS AND HYBRIDS

For general cultivation: De Soto,

Forest Garden, Wolf (freestone), Wy-

ant, Stoddard, Terry, SurpHse.

Most promising for trial: Compass

Cherry, Hanska, Opata, Sapa, Stella
Wan eta.

GRAPES

First degree of hardiness: Beta,

Janesville, Hungarian.

Second degree of hardiness:
Moore’s Early, Campbell’s Early,
Brighton, Dieleware, Worden, Con-
cord, Moore’s Diamond, Wyoming
Red.

RASPBERRIES

Red varieties: King, Miller, Loui-
don, Minnetonka Ironclad, Sunbeam,
St. Regis, Ohta, Minnesota No. 4.

Black and purple varieties :Palmer,
G|i*6gg, Older, Columbian, Cumber-
land.

BLACKBERRIES

Ancient Briton, Snyder, Eldorado.
CURRANTS

White Grape, Victoria, Long Bunch
Holland, Pomona, Red Cross, Perfec-
tion, London Market, Black Naples.
GOOSEBERRIES

Houghton, Downing, Champion,
Pearl, Carrie.

STRAWBERRIES

Perfect varieties: Bederwood, En-
hance, Splendid, Glen Mary, Senator
Dunlap, Minnesota No. 3.

Imperfect varieties: Warfield.
Everbearing varieties: Progressive,
Superb, No. 1017.

•

NATIVE FRUITS

Valuable for trial: Diwarf Juneber-
ry, Sand Cherry, Buffalo Berfry, High
Bush Cranberry.

NUT FRUITS

Sheilbark Hickory, Black Walnut,
Butternut.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Our termis are strictly cash.

NOTE CAREFULLY

The size of trees aud age offered
and order accordingly.

ORDER EARLY

All orders are filled in rotation,
neiHje^Uh@_ya^e of placing them as
early as 'poissii^^y— ^dhke the assort-
ment is unbroken.

DELAYS ^

If the stock has been shipped and
you do not receive it in due iseason,
advise your agent to Itrace same,
and notify us and we will have it
traced also

CARE OF STOCK WHEN RECEIVED

Avoid any unnec-eissary exposure to
sun or wind. Wet the roots thor-
oughly at once and place them in a
damp cellar or else heel them in the
ground in some cool, moist plaee un-
til you are ready to plant. If stock*
appears rather dry when received, or
if weather is unfavorable, it will
generally be best not to plant at oaice
but let it remain heeled in or buried
in moist ground until prospects im-
provie, or for a few days. By this
method of handling a much better
stand of all kind^ o^f Nursery Stock
will be oibtained.

FALL SHIPMENTS

When you receive your bale of
treas or plants from our delivery
man or the station, you want to bear
in mind that in order to have best
results in growth, this order of stock
that you have just received needs
to be kept moist from the time you
get it until you have it heeled oir
buried in earth. When you have the
roots well protected, choose a high
and mild location, where there is
good drainage. Then dig a trench
sloping and deep enough so that all
trees will be entirely covered. The
bundle should be cut open and all
the straw or moss removed, then laid
c^ose side by side in the trench. The
larger trees should be placed some
deeper ithan the smaller trees, which
are all to be covered with earth hav-
ing about eighteen inches of earth
over tbe roots and three or four
inches over the tops. When you bury
Plum, Cherry, Poplars, Birch land
Mountain Ash, it Is necessary to
place a 'little straw between the
trunk with limbs and the earth. The
straw absorbs some moiisthre, there-
fore not causing limb or trunk rot.
After the straw is plaOed around the
tops of the Drees, cover all over se-
curely with earth at once to keep
the mice oufc. After you have placed
the earth on, then put about three
inches of coarse manure on, to pre^-
vent alternate freezing and thaw-
ing. It is a good plan to get stock
in the fall if properly buried for
winter, as you will have your trees
on hand in the spring, to plant just
at the Tight time. Evergreens and
strawberries should not be shipped in
the fall.

FROZEN STOCK

Should any stock be received in a
frozen condition, place in a cellar or
some mild, moist place, where it will
thaw out gradually, and do not un-
pack until frost is out of the trees.
PREPARING LAND

In preparing land for planting
small fruits, orchards or groves, the
land should be put in about the same
condition that a crop of corn re-
quires. You also want toi keep in

mind the kind of land, situation and
care that a cornfisld should have,
and there is little danger of going
astray in the management of any tree
planting. Corn will not do well in a
c-ovetf, timothy or blue grass sod,
even if a few inches be spaded up
arcund each hill, neither will young
trees thrive with such treatment.
Corn will be , stunted and worthless if
planted within one or two rods of
large willows, cottonwood or like
trees; the same is true with all fruit
plants and evergreens. Corn is a
failure in wet, low land; so are
nearly all fruit trees.

PLANTING IN SOD

necessary to p*>ant in sod,
as a lawn,”^ reinoy^: aU_^sod within a
radius ef 3 or 4 feet7'~a;»^~^Xter^
planting, keep the ground well cUltt-
vated or mulched near the trees.
PRUNING AND SETTING OF TREES

Take your fruit tree, fotrest or or-
namental tree (except evergreens)
and trim off half of last year’s
frowth from the top except the cen-
ter limb, and trim, all roofs from the
inside out back fo where they an 3
al.l fresh, leaving the longest root
not over a foot long. Thm place
your trees in a barrel half full of
water. Then hitch your horse to a
stone boat and haul your treiss
where they are to be planted. Dig
the hole about six inches larger each
way than the roots are and about
eight inches deeper. After the hole
is dug, place about three inches of
top soil in the bottom of the hole;
then take tree and place same an
hole which puts it in about five in-
ches deeper than it .stood in the
nursery. After placing a little dirt
over the roots, then, with the heel
and all the strength and weight at
comtmand, stamp the earth down un-
til it is solid; fill in a little more
dirt and repeat the stamping until
the hole is full; then fill the rest
df the hole with loose dirt and leave
it dishing some toward the tree.
Bushes, both fruit and ornamental,
are to be root and top pruned the
same way. This is very limportant
in order to preserve a balance be-
tween the root and top. The forego-
ing directions for top pruning do
not, however, apply to everg, reiens.
MANURING

In most of our soifs in this section
we would not advise plowing under
manure in the spring, or r»iacing it
in holes dug, but rather apply It as
a top dressing around the trees and
bushes, which .should be done the
fo'llowing fall, about November 1st,
after planting, for wintm' protection.
HARDY BULBS

Diletria or Bleeding Heart, Peo-
nies. Lillies of the Valley, Hardy
Pholox and Tulips may be set out as
soon as received in the fall. After
setting them in well work'd soil,
place a lithe manure (about two
inches.) over them If these are set
in the spring, set them where you
can give good cultivation. The Glad-
iolas, Gannas and Dahlias, when re-
ceived in the fall, place in a . ittle
dry sand or saw-dust in the cellar,
until spring planting. Tulips must
be planted in the fall.

EVERGREENS

Evergreens can only be shipped
and delivered in the spring. Why
evergreens generally die out is be-
cause the roots are exposed to the
air. We find that the sap of ever-
green root is pithy and when the
rctots are exposed to wind or sun
for only five minutes the sap forces
its way to the surface oif the roots
and causes a crust of pithy natuire.
The sap of that pithy nature on the
surface of the roots causes the stop-

page of the circulation of the sap
in the roots of the evergreiens. That
is why so many are already dejad
when planted.

ADVICE

Take your evergreens and keep
them well covered with moist straw
or moss; lay them in a shed oir sonxe
protected place until you are ready
to plant. Choose a piece of ground
where there is draimaige. Plow the
land and get it in the same shape
you would for a field of corn. Dig
your holes about 18 inches square
and about 18 inches deep. Place
the top soil in one place at the side
of the hole and the bottom soil in
another place at the side of thojml
When you ha ve, vou r^b ^^degrtniinia^^
yoiurey^ii^^^errrr^*'^^ theim in a
"orbarrel with suificient water to
cover the roots well. Place same on
a stone boat, hitch horse to your
boat and haul to place of planting.
Stop at the first hole and finish plant-
ing the. first evergreen before going
any fartheir. Before taking the ever-
green out of the barrel or tub fill the
hole partly with top soil. Pill same
sufficient to have evergreen two tc
foul Inches deeper set than it stood
in the nursery. Darge evergreens,
say 3 to 4 fee:, need to be set 4
inches deeper, and small trees, say
1 foot, need to be set about 2 inches
deeper than they stdod in the nur-
sery. The depth they stood in the
nursery is easily seen in the change
in color of the bark near the roots.

Take your evergreen out of tub or
barrel and cut back the large roots
from the inside out to where they
are fresh, leaving the longest 'large
roots not over one foot long. Do
not trim off any fibrous roots. Trim
a few of the lowest branches off;
then dip the tree back Into the wa_
ter. Set your tree into the hole and
immediately place some moist soil
(not manure) over the roots. When
you have the hole nearly filled with
the best moist soil, then with the
heel and the strength and weight at
command, stamp the earth down une
til it is solid. Place the balance of
the earth around the tree, leaving it
a little dishing toward the tree.
Then proceed with the next tree. A
few days later cultivate the soil and
stir the same around the tree.

Evergreens best adapted for gen-
eral planting: Scotch Pine, PonderO-
sa Pine, White Pine, Norway
Spruce, White Spruce, Black Hlill
Spruce, Balsam Pir, American Ar-
boir Vitae, Jack Pine and Colorado
Blue Spruce. The Coloradoi Blue
Spruce is the most--^icturesque of
all evergreens and is as easily grown
• as a Boxelder.

Plant Pines about 10 feet apart;
Spruce and Balsam, 8 feet; and
American Arbor Vitae for hedges, 1
to 2 feet apart.

GRAPES (Of Extreme Hardiness)

Beta, Hungarian and Alpha

Gnapes. Every family is fond df
grapes, and the above three hardy
varieties can be grown easily in any
farm garden or ciity lot. If you are
crowded for space plant a few vines
along a fence or next to some out
buildings; they make a handsome ap-
pearance in the sumimer time and are
relished in the fall by the faimly.

STRAWBERRIES

The Straw Derry is one of the most
dhicious fruits in their season and
can be grown on any good soil. Soil
with a little sand in, with c. ay sub-
soil is the best for the strawberry.
Remember the strawberry has very
fin 3 roots and must be kept moist
until s.et out. The best rand for /the
straw/oerry patch is a parcel ■ of
ground in about tne same condition
tnat you would use for sietting out
vegetables, in the planting of straw-
bany plants use the same cah.e and
hanale the plant similar to^_pl^
ing of cabDage__hiantrS'^ andT your
strnwharry-i5l^^ grow. Thoro

TTultr^cion and the training of run- ^
ners toward the center of the row
is necessary for the first season.
Aboub Dee mber 1st haul sufficient
straw to cover the whole bed about
three inches. The next spring as soon
as the plants are starting td grow
take a fork and rake nearly all the
straw from the plants, leaving same
in center of the rows. Tha best time
to uncover the paants is just after a
rain while th3 straw is damp. By
placing it then between sthe rows
and Stepping on it as you take it
off the plants, it will lay better in,
its piopiBr place. The straw between
the rows acts as a mulch and, makes
a clean place for pickers to go while
picking the berries. The second year
after the berries are picked, take a
scythe or mower and mow the plants
close to the ground. Stir the straw
up between the rows and the first
windy day set fire to the patch,
thereby making a clean burn over
the whole strawberry bed. As soon
as you have the bed burned over
begin cultivating between the rows
and get same well pulverized for
new plants to take root. Next .De-
cember 1st again cover the bed
with clean straw. If your ground is
well cared for you may grow three
crops off from one bed. We advise
our customers to set out a new bed
every yerar as it is necessary to) have
young plants fron.. new beds in order
to grow large berries. Also watch
your br:d and do not allow the plants
to get too thick. Each iDlant needs
six inches space in order to produce
large fine berries. For distance and
number of plants per acre see scale
on this circular.

EVERBEARING STRAWBERRY

The Fall or Everbearing Sitrawber-
ries have gone beyond the experi-
mi3ntial stage. They have proven a
great success, wherever tried, and
with good care.

For city residents, we recommend
planting about 16 inches each way
and grow the plants in hiUs, by
keeping the runners cut off.

For rural districts, the matted
row system is generally conceived
the best. By matted row system, is
meant, to plant about 18 inches aj-
part in the row and about 4 feet
part between the row, then allow the
runners to take root in the’ row.
With good care and thorough culti-
vation, you will get a matted row of
about 18 inches wide by fall of the
season’s p’ anting.

In planting the evierbearing straw-
bsrry, choose a level, rich piece of
land, get the soil well worked up,
then plant about the first of May, or
up to May l'5th, cultivate the plants
well, keep the blossoms picked off
until about the middle of July and
by the 1st to 10th of August you will
be picking large, fine lucious straw-
berries. Should the fall turn oult^
dry, some watering will encourage
the size and quantity of fffruiti.

The Everbearing are a distinct
kind, in our latitude they will bear
heavy until freezing weather cheeks

their growth.

Progressive variety, one of our
best leading kinds, berries large,
solid and very sweet, plant a strong
•grower.

Superb: Very , large and considered
by some equal to the Progressive,
plant a very vigorous grower.

No. 1017 originated by JVIjr. Haral-
son at the state fruit breeding farm,
is coming to the front fast, as one of
the largest and most vigorous plants
and berries grown of the Everbear-
ing varieties.

WEEPING WILLOW

It is (III I "nrl mrrt beauiti-

fui of all weeping (in i i 7 nr ^
namental weeping tree, they are
simply grand and shoulM have a
place in every lawn.

HESSIAN GOLDEN WILLOW

The Russian Golden Willow is one
of the thickest wind break trees
grown. Trees are clean, pretty and
will stand the abuse of heavy wiinds
and snow storms. They also make
ornamental trees, when triimmed in
tree form. Farmers will make no
mistake in setting out at least a few
of these trees.

LAUREL LEAF WILLOW

This willow is becoming more po-
pular every year. Experience tells
us that they will stand the cold se-
vere winds of the North Dakota win-
ters better than the Russian Golden
Willow. They make ta very handsome
tree. With their glossy leaves they
are very pretty during the summer.
These trees can be grown success.
ful'iy in thickets as a wind-/break or
as single trees. Where grown as sin-
gle trees, they make a very pretty
shaped tree of good siz?e.

NORWAY POPLAR (8udd)en Sawlog)

This is just what the people are
looking for — a tree that will get a
move on itself and turn out lumber
in the shortest spade of time. Our
forests are rapidly disappearing and
must be replaced with some rapid
growing tree. The Norway Poplar
promises to be to the North what
the Eucalyptus is to the South. It
is by far the most rapid grower we
have. A Minnesota farmer says:
“This tree grows faster than any eith-
er I knojW of. ” The grain of woo'd
is straight and it splits easily. Trees
planted 14 years ago are 17 inches in
diameter and &5 feet tall. In fifteen
years you will have a fine lot of saw
logs. They somewhat resemble the
Carolina Popdar. Their origin no
man knows. They got their namd by
being found growing among Norwe^
gians of southern Miiun. They are
supposed to be the giant Asiatic Pop-
lar drom Siberia. Superficial observ'-
ers sometimes call them the Oaro/lina
Poplar. They look like the Carolina
Poplar during the fore part of the
season's growth, buit after Slepftem-
ber 1st, a boy 10 years old coujld sep-
arate them in the same fielld. The
I'eaves are larger and are shed ear-
lier. In after years the difierence is
marked. More than any other tree
they retain their size as they mount
upward. Cut in August, peeled and
dried, they make good fence posts.
Plant trees 4 feet apart each way,
and in two or three years cut ou|t
alternate rows for fence posts, and
in two or three years after you can
cut ouit alternate rolws the opposite
way. The rest of the standing trees
will make a splendid forest.

HARDY SHRUBS FOR

LAWN PLANTING

Hydrangea Panicu’ata Graniflora,
Honeysuckle Tar (in pink and white
fiowers). Spirea Van Hutti (or Bridal
wreath), Spirea Bilardi with pyrimi-
dal pink flowers Spirea Anthony
Watera with a mass of pink flowers,
Spirea Aurea with golden leaves and

pinkish with white flowers. Purple
Lilac, White Lilac, Madam LeMoine
Lilac (a grafted white lilac), Syrin-
•gea or Mock Orang.3, Yellow F-ower.
inrg Currant, Pink Flowering Al-
mond, Snowball, Golden Elder,
White Snowb3rry, Prunus Triloba
and High Bush Cranberry.

HEDGES

We are pleased to inform our
Northwestern customers of the beau-
ties there are in diffierent varieties
Of Hedges. The AMERICAN ARBOR
VITAE makes the prettiest of all
evergreen hedges and is perfectly
hardy for Minnesota and the Dakotas.
Spirea Van Hutti and Tartarian Hon-
m ake very ornamental
hedges^ and

Barberry Thunbergii — ^^nong

the very hard<y shrubs for hedgesT^
ROSES

Our Roses are out-door, field
•grown roses on their own roots.
They are strong two year old plants.
They will bloom with proper care,
the .same season they are planted.
In planting roses, cut the top back
to within four inches of the ground
after they are planted.

Fallowing are a few named varie-
ties of our Roses and habi't: oif

growth: In Bush Roses we have the

Red, Pink and White Moss roses, al-
so the Hardy Rugosa Rose, General
Jacquimnot, Paul Neyron, Madam
Plaritier, American Beauty, Captain
Haywood, Persian Yellow and M. P.
Wilder.

In Climbing Roses we have the
Queen of the Prairie, Baltimore
Belle, Crimson Rambler, Seven Sis-
ters, Dorothy Perkins.

In Baby Rambler Roses we have
the Red, Pink, White and Crimson
varieties.

HARDY FLOWERS

Plant abundant. Beauty is Wealth.
Red, White and Pink Peonies; Bleed-
ing Heart; Lily of the Valley; Rosa
Rugosa; Cannas; Iris; Gladiofas; Tu-
lip; Hardy Phlox; and also nemember
the Asparagus and Rhubarb.

If you are in the market for trees
and plan :s, that are not given in this
Instructive Circular, kindly write us
or mention the same to our Repre-
sentatives, and we will be pleased to
give you the needed inform atiion on
same. As we are large growers of
Hardy Trees and Plants, and with
our several years of experience a-
mong trees and plants, we are
pleased to extend our experience to
our Horticultural Friends.

DISTANCE APART TO PLANT

Trees or Plants .
per aoire

Apples and Crabs, 16x24 feet

apart 114

Cherry and Plum, 12x20 (feet

apart 182

Currants and Gooseberries,

4x6 feet apart 1815*

Raspberries, Red Sucker

kinds, 3x6 feet apart _ 2420

Raspberries, Black and Pur^
pie kinds, 4x^6 feet a-'

part 1815

Blackberries, 4x6 feet apart 1815

Strawberries, 2x4 feet apart 5445

Asparagus, 2x4 feet apart '5445

Rhubarb, 3x6 feet apart 2420

The number of square feet in an
acre is 43, 560. Divide this amount
by the number of square feet requir-
ed by eaeh plant. Thus to find’ how
many grapes are required for an acre
planted 8 feet apart each way: 8

times 8 equals 64; 43, 560 divided by
64 evua'ls 681, the number for one
acre.

CERTIFICATE OF INSPECTION AC-
COMPANIES EACH SHIPMENT