Historic, archived document
Do not assume content reflects current
scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.
EU W.MARSHAlt
mUHOH MARSHALL
HAJWEYW. MARSHALL
CHETG.MARSHALL
6EO. A. MARSHALL
I
OR thirty-five years we have been supplying fruit growers and j
flower lovers throughout the Central West, with fruit trees, I
plants, and shrubs, and have a long list of fully satisfied cus- |
tomers — our friends and boosters for our nurseries. The stock J
T sent out from Marshalls Nurseries and the service rendered, f
I makes the name of Marshall synonymous with horticulture in the West, |
1 and with the best in all kinds of fruit trees and plants, evergreens, orna- 1
I mental and shade trees, shrubbery and hardy flowers. Our reputation I
J has been built up on the merit of the stock produced and sent out and the |
I principle of guaranteeing satisfaction to customers at all times. J
I We grow a complete line of nursery stock adapted to the Central West. J
I Only varieties of known hardiness and behavior are featured, and those J
J especially hardy and meritorious are marked with an asterisk (*). We =
1 have a trial ground where new and promising varieties are tested, and 1
j added to the lists of varieties to grow and disseminate, or are discarded. !
i We also co-operate with the various experimental stations in testing out \
I new sorts. f
I We employ only men who are honest and trustworthy to represent [
I us. These men are carefully instructed about varieties for their respective j
f districts, planting, culture, trimming, etc., and are always glad to advise j
j customers. We are also always willing and anxious to answer, from our 1
1 office, any inquiries at any time. We want our customers to feel free to 1
j call on us. I
1 We put out only first class stock. We do not list undersized, so called 1
I “parcel post size” trees and plants, hence our prices may not seem as cheap |
j as those played up by some catalog nurseries. Our culls, which correspond J
I to the runts in the farmer's herd of pigs, are burned. The customer gets j
i only first class stock the right size for its age, and not 3 and 4 year stunted j
1 stock called one or two year old stock. Our prices are as low as it is possi- i
1 ble for us to make them, considering quality. i
1 In preparing this book we have tried to make it more of a hand book 1
I on trees, shrubs, and plants for the planter of the Central West than has I
I been the rule with most nursery catalogs. We have described in more j
I detail, giving the special uses for which they are best suited, varieties that J
f have been proven thoroughly adapted to the territory. Descriptions are [
f as accurate as our knowledge will permit us to make them and are in no j
1 way overdrawn. A list of stock selected from this book, guided by the 1
1 descriptions given, will be suitable for the purposes desired. j
I Marshalls Nurseries, Arlington, Nebraska (
4.,.
^/reGS ^fivuBs and ^Canis
Evergreen Blocks at Marshalls Nurseries
The Nurseries
The nurseries, comprising 300 acres, are located two miles east of Arlington
on the high divide between the Elkhorn and Missouri rivers. The soil is
of the famous “Loess,” which is recognized by nurserymen and orchardists
and recornmended by geologists, as particularly adapted for root development.
Trees and plants grown on this soil have more fibrous roots which makes trans-
planting more successful. The wood growth is also firmer and more mature
than that of stock grown on rich valley soils. The root system is the really im-
portant part of every tree and plant. Marshalls’ trees have better roots.
How Stock Is Grown begin-
ning it has been
the aim of Marshalls to grow the best trees and
plants that it is possible to grow. No expense
incidental to care, cultivation and handling of
nursery stock that will tend to make it better,
is spared. The most intensive cultivation is
practiced from the time the ground thaws out
in the spring until it freezes in the fall. Moist-
ure is conserved for the growing trees and
plants and all nursery land is absolutely free of
weeds at all times.
The pruning, pinching back, spraying and
other operations essential to the growth of the
best formed, well ripened stock is done only
by experts and at exactly the right time for
best results. It costs more money to grow
stock this way but the stock is better.
Guarantee exercise the greatest care to
keep our varieties pure and true
to name, and hold ourselves in readiness at all
times to replace, on proper proof, all stock that
may prove otherwise, or refund the amount
paid, but it is mutually agreed between the pur-
chaser and ourselves that we shall not at any
time be liable for any amount greater than the
original price. Marshalls’ trees and plants are
guaranteed to be free from infectious diseases
and dangerous insects — healthy, vigorous and
well-formed. A State Inspector’s Certificate
accompanies each shipment.
Packinff Packing Building contains
® 25,000 square feet of floor space.
It is constructed of brick and tile with walls
18 inches thick. The roof is also insulated
against heat and cold. This provides unex-
celled facilities for handling and packing out of
nursery stock. Changes of temperature in this
building are very slow and with the moist, cool
cellar condition which prevails, there is no
chance for stock to dry out or be injured in
any way from the time it is dug until its is de-
livered to the transportation company.
All stock is packed to stand, for three weeks,
the usual conditions encountered on station
platforms, in freight cars and at transfer
points. Water-proof paper covers the wet pack-
ing material about the roots — each bale being
then entirely covered with burlap and rye
straw.
Shipping Facilities
We are located on
the main line of the
Chicago and Northwestern Railway, with excel-
lent freight service, and twelve express trains
daily. We guarantee stock to reach its destina-
tion in prime condition.
Come and See Us we are proud of our
nurseries and pack-
ing equipment, and take pleasure in showing
lovers of trees and plants what we grow and
how we handle it. Come and visit us at any
time. You are always welcome and we will be
glad to have you come whether you are in the
market or not.
Page Two
Strawberries and other Small Fruits at Marshalls Nurseries
Planting, Pruning and Care
Care of Stock bundles should be
immediately, the
roots dipped in water, then heeled in moist
ground so that the mellow earth will come in
contact with the roots and thoroughly protect
them from the air, having the earth tramped
solid about them.
When ready to plant, take up only a few at
a time, puddle the roots and do not allow them
to lie exposed to the sun or air.
The ground should be carefully prepared by
deep plowing and firming down with a disc and
harrow.
Planting holes for planting must be
® large enough to receive the roots
freely, without cramping or bending them from
their natural position. All broken or mutilated
portions of the roots must be cut off so as to
leave the ends smooth and sound. All trees
should be planted two or three inches deeper
than they stood in the nursery row; pack the
soil very firmly about the roots by tamping
with the feet or post tamper, being careful not
to bark or break the roots. Leave three inches
Number of Trees and Plants on an
Acre
40 feet apart each way 27
30 feet apart each way ; 50
25 feet apart each way 70
20 feet apart each way 110
18 feet apart each way 135
15 feet apart each way 205
12 feet apart each way 300
10 feet apart each way 435
8 feet apart each way 680
6 feet apart each way 1210
5 feet apart each way 1745
4 feet apart each way , 2725
3 feet apart each way 4840
Rule. Multiply the distance in feet between
the rows by the distance the plants are apart
in the rows, and the product will be number of
square feet for each plant or hill, which divided
into the number of square feet in an acre (43,-
560), will give the number of plants or trees to
the acre.
of the surface soil loose to serve as a mulch.
If the ground is very dry apply one to two pails
of water before this soil mulch is in place, and
after the water has soaked away it can then be
placed over the moist soil.
Mulching Unless thorough surface cultiva-
® tion will be practiced during the
summer a mulch should be applied. This may
be a layer of coarse manure or vegetable mat-
ter around the trees three to six inches deep,
and extending out from the trees three or five
feet. Mulching protects the soil against the
sun and drying winds; against alternate freez-
ing and thawing, and provides some plant food.
Dig holes large enough to admit roots in nat-
ural position. Set several inches deeper than
stood in nursery row. Pack soil solid about
roots.
Page Three
Digging trees with modern digger. You get all the roots
Pruninff pruning of trees should begin
® when they are planted. The trans-
planting of a tree marks a very critical point
Apple Plum Cherry Peach
Showing how to trim trees when planted;
upper, before and lower, after trimming. Very
important.
of its life history, and to neglect careful and
proper methods of planting and pruning at that
time is to invite disaster or, at least, unsatis-
factory returns from one’s efforts.
Apple and Pear — Select from three to five
of the branches to form the permanent head of
the tree. These branches should be well dis-
tributed around the trunk, and at safe distance
apart up and down the trunk. If two branches
come out, one exactly opposite the other, form-
ing a crotch, a split may occur at this weak
point in later life, when the tree is full of fruit.
Shorten these selected branches to about five
buds, cutting the branches just above a bud
that points outward. Remove all the other
branches close to the trunk, leaving no stub
longer than one-eighth to one-quarter inch.
Also shorten back two-thirds the central leader
of the tree, if one exists, else the tree assumes
a too upright growth for best results in later
life. See illustrations.
Cherry — Five or six good limbs, well dis-
tributed around the trunk will be sufficient to
form a well balanced top. The limbs left after
pruning should not be cut back as severely as
recommended for some other classes. See il-
lustrations.
Plum — Cut back all branches to about two or
three buds. After the tree has grown for a
year, remove all but four or five branches, but
do not cut these back. These limbs will form
the permanent framework for the top and sub-
sequent growth may be pruned to meet the re-
quirements or taste of the planter. See illus-
tration.
Qmoll Pviiifc Gooseberries and Currants —
Oman rruna ^he ground by deep
plowing or spading. Cut the plants back fully
one-half. Plant four feet apart both ways, same
depth as plants stood in the nursery row, and
firm soil well.
Blackberries, Raspberries, Dewberries — These
should be set fairly deep, except one-year-old
raspberry plants, the new growth of which
starts from the crown in the mass of hair-like
roots; these should be planted shallow, with
the crown not more than one inch below the
surface. Too deep planting is often fatal to
Page Four
Block of l-year Plums at Marshalls Nurseries
one-year-old raspberry plants. Plant in rows
five or six feet apart, with plants three to four
feet apart in the row. Firm the dirt around
each plant. Keep surface of ground loose.
Water in dry weather during growing season.
Mulch in winter after the ground is frozen.
Strawberries — Plants should be set and cared
for the same as tomato and cabbage plants.
Plant in rows three to three and one-half feet
apart and twelve to fifteen inches in a row.
The cheapest way to grow them is to plant in
long rows and tend with a corn plow, using
shields. Never allow rows to spread to more
than eight or ten inches in width. Cover the
plants late in the fall with one or two inches
of prairie hay or stable litter (if free from weed
seed). This covering should be removed from
the plants in early spring and left between the
rows until the fruit is picked, then it should be
removed from the patch and the rows culti-
vated the same as before.
Grapes — These should be planted ten to
twelve inches deep in holes large enough to
admit roots without curling them , pressing
soil solid about roots. Cut vines back to within
three or four buds of the roots. Keep the
ground clean by cultivating; if impossible to
cultivate, mulch. Prune in November before
covering for winter. We regard covering as
profitable and in most sections as essential.
Use coarse hay or dirt in covering.
Asparagus — Prepare ground by deep plowing
or spading. Set plants twelve to eighteen
inches each way, three inches deep, with roots
well spread out. Every fall mulch the bed well
with manure.
Rhubarb — Prepare ground as for asparagus.
Set the plants with crown or eye two inches
under ground. Plant three feet apart each way.
Mulch in winter. Give clean cultivation the
same as for any other crop.
Shrubs planted in beds or groups the
ground should be spaded deeply and
well worked. If shrubs are set as individual
specimens they should be planted the same as
trees.
Set shrubs at the same depth as they stood
in the nursery row, or with their crowns at
about the surface of the ground. Water the
plants well during the hot, dry weather and
keep the ground well stirred around them. Most
shrubs require judicious pruning at planting
time, and subsequently. When shrubs are
planted it is advisable to cut them back from
one-half to two-thirds with few exceptions.
Hedges trench twelve inches
® deep or more and set the plants
four to six inches deeper than they stood in the
nursery row, or deep enough so the lower
branches will be four to six inches under the
ground. Such deep planting will make a com-
pact hedge down to the ground line, but if the
plants are set shallow there will always be un-
desirable open spaces at the base of the hedge.
STRAWBERRIES
Just right.
Too shallow. Too deep.
Page Five
^Trees ^hvuBs and ^Canis
GRAPES
Planted too shallow. Planted just right.
Some planters set Privet in a double row, eight
to ten inches apart each way, which makes a
very dense hedge. Cut Privet back to six
inches when planting to promote thick new
growth at lower part of plant.
Barberry-Spirea — Should be planted in the
same manner as shrubs, either in trenches for
hedge or as groups or individual specimens.
Cut back and thin out one-half of top wood.
Roses roses are planted in the ordinary
way with the tops left exposed to the
sun and drying winds of the spring, they are
almost sure to shrivel before time for them to
grow, and thus the plants are greatly endan-
gered, while if the following suggestions are
followed, success is almost certain. The plants
should be unpacked as soon as received from
the nursery and planted, if possible. If unable
to plant them immediately upon receiving them,
they should be heeled-in deep (buried) in moist,
loose earth, waiting time to plant. In planting
they should be set two or three inches deeper
than they stood in the nursery in well-prepared,
damp soil, but not wet enough to be muddy. If
the soil is dry it is well to plant the roses solid-
ly, then wet thoroughly, and after the water has
soaked away, throw up a small mound of earth
five or six inches high around the plant. Then
cut off the branches about one inch above the
mound, leaving it this way for ten days or two
weeks, or until the buds start and show a de-
sire to grow, when the dirt mound can be raked
down. Roses handled in this way hardly ever
fail to make a good start and a very satisfac-
tory growth.
Bulbs and Roots Prepare the ground by
deep spading twelve to
eighteen inches, and work it into a well pul-
verized condition.
Peonies — Should be set with the crown two
to three inches below the surface of the ground.
Plant one and one-half feet apart. Mulch
heavily after the ground is frozen and remove
mulch in the spring.
Iris — Should be set with the crown two inches
below the surface. Plant twelve inches apart.
Mulch as for Peonies.
Phlox — Set the crown one inch under the sur-
face and spread out the roots. Firm well.
Mulch in winter. Water in summer. Plant
twelve inches apart. Gaillardia, Delphinium,
Platycodon and other perennials should be
planted about like Iris and Phlox.
Ornamentals — Dig holes large
1 rccd accommodate all
roots without bending or cramping. Fill the
hole with good top dirt and firm it hard. When
the hole is three-fourths full, allow a bucket or
more of water to seep away around the roots,
after which the hole may be entirely filled. It
is well to mulch the tree immediately to pre-
vent drying out. Prune all limbs back to five or
seven good buds, even though the appearance
of the tree is impaired by such treatment.
Water trees during the summer months and
give them plenty of attention until they have
become well established. Large sizes of shade
trees can often be staked to advantage until
their roots have obtained good anchorage in the
soil.
These should be planted ex-
tremely solid, but be sure that
all vacancies under the pronged roots are
well filled with soil first, then press or tamp
the soil so solid that the tree cannot be easily
pulled up, leaving two inches of the soil loose
to prevent baking and to take in the rainfall.
Be careful never to expose the roots to the sun
and air long enough to dry them in the least,
and if necessary to water them, it is better to
dig a hole by the side of the tree one foot deep
and water them through the hole. This applies
to the watering of all trees. Better to water
two or three pailfulls at a time in seven or eight
days, as needed, than to pour water on the sur-
face, which often does more harm than good, by
crusting the surface and attracting the roots
upward for moisture, instead of downward.
Mulch with old hay or chaff, throw a little soil
on the mulching and it will look better and will
be more effective. Evergreens should be
watered during a drought in mid-summer or
fall as well as spring. The ground should be
filled with water at the approach of winter and
then mulched. They do not need the above
care after the first year. After planting protect
evergreens in yard by placing a screen about
each to keep dogs away.
Rose Bushes Just Planted — Before and
After Trimming.
Page Six
FRUIT DEPARTMENT
THE APPLE
The Apple is the first fruit, both in importance and general culture. No fruit
is more in demand, more universally liked or more generally used. The
earlier varieties ripen about the last of June, and the later sorts can be
kept until that season. It is a fruit in perfection the entire year. By a judicious
selection of varieties, a constant succession can be had the whole year.
Every farm home should have a family orchard. The hardier varieties will
thrive and bear fruit in Nebraska and adjoining states even where climatic condi-
tions are most severe. No farm home plan is complete or desirable without its
quota of apple trees. Twenty-five to fifty trees occupy only a portion of an acre
of ground and will furnish the family with an ample supply, one year with
another.
Commercial apple growing is very profitable in the more favored sections of
the territory. The rolling land adjacent to the Missouri River (one to two tiers
of counties from the river) , is particularly adapted for commercial orcharding.
We have cut down our list of varieties and are growing and offering only
such sorts as have been thoroughly tested. The varieties that are really valu-
able in the Central West are described quite fully, while those of less value are
described more briefly. The very hardiest varieties are marked with an asterisk
(*). Keep these in mind when making selections for the North and West,
where climate is sever and rainfall light.
For planting and culture instructions see page 3.
SUMMER
*LIVLAND (Livland Raspberry). This va-
riety is quite new but is very promising. It is
of Russian origin and is undoubtedly one of the
very hardiest. It has been planted quite ex-
tensively in the Dakotas and Western Minne-
sota during the past few years and seems
thoroughly at home. It is one of the earliest
to ripen, usually being at its best in late July.
The fruit is medium to large, splashed and
APPLES
shaded with red; flesh stained with red, fine,
tender, juicy and slightly tart; extra good and
very beautiful. It is a fine dessert apple and
makes excellent sauce, pies and jelly. Bears
young.
*OLDENBURG (Duchess). This apple is too
well known to need description to most plant-
ers. It is of Russian origin and one of the har-
diest. It adapts itself to a wide range of terri-
Page Seven
tory and is a favorite early commercial variety
in almost every northern apple section. The
tree is one of the best with upright head re-
quiring little pruning. Fruit is large, striped
and beautiful, ripening in August but makes ex-
cellent sauce and pies as early as July, when
only half matured. It contains too much acid
to be a good eating apple, but should be in
every home orchard for cooking. It finds a
ready sale on all large markets and on account
of it being suitable for use so early, it always
brings a good price. A good annual bearer.
Bears young.
*YELLOW TRANSPARENT. A favorite
home and commercial variety, especiall in the
North. Tree very hardy; an early and annual
bearer. Fruit is large, pale waxen yellow,
beautiful. Flesh white, tender, fine grained, of
splendid quality. Is a favorite early dessert
apple and is also suitable for cooking. Season
July 15th to 20th. Should have a place in every
home orchard.
CHENANGO (Strawberry). Fruit medium
size, oblong; skin whitish splashed and mot-
tled with crimson. Flesh tender and fine
grained, juicy and mild. A splendid table ap-
ple. Tree moderately hardy and good annual
bearer.
EARLY HARVEST. Early yellow apple.
Quality good. July.
EARLY PEN NOCK. Large early apple,
quality fair; moderately hardy. July.
RED ASTRACHAN. Large, rich, juicy, tart;
almost red. July.
RED JUNE. Small to medium. Good qual-
ity. Heavy bearer. June and July.
SWEET JUNE. Small to medium. Good
quality, sweet. June and July.
TETOFSKI. Medium size. Good quality,
mild. Bears early, hardy. July.
FALL APPLES
'"WEALTHY. Fruit large, variegated red;
beautiful; full of lively, sub-acid juice; fine
grained; splendid for eating; unsurpassed for
cooking, jelly, drying or butter; a native of
Minnesota; an early winter apple there, and
one of their hardiest sorts; it is indispensable
in the new Northwest; does remarkably
through all the Central States and is a favorite
wherever grown. Commences to bear young
Wealthy
Yellow Transparent
and is a heavy annual bearer. This variety
should be in every orchard, family or commer-
cial. September.
•^HIBERNAL. One of the hardiest of Rus-
sian varieties adopted by many prominent hor-
ticulaurists as a standard of hardiness. Tree
vigorous, sturdy and a good early bearer. Fruit
large to very large, greenish-yellow with dull
bronze red on sunny side; flesh tart, juicy,
very good for sauce, baking and jelly. This is
one of the ironclads for sections of extreme
cold and semi-arid climates. October to De-
cember.
BELL. This variety is from a chance seed-
ling found growing at Papillion, Nebraska, and
has been tested out on our grounds for 22
years. It has proven itself perfectly hardy on
our grounds. The tree resembles Jonathan and
this with its quality indicates that it is a Jona-
than seedling. The fruit is medium size, ob-
long; skin is deep red to almost black on sunny
side; flesh is fine grained, juicy and mild. The
quality is excellent, making it one of the best
dessert apples of recent introduction. It also
makes excellent sauce, pies and jellies. Sep-
tember. We recommend this variety for trial
throughout the Central West.
MAIDEN BLUSH. This old variety is de-
serving of more general planting. The quality
of the fruit is very high. Cooking tests show
Page Eight
Aavshalh
that it stands among the best in more ways of
cooking apples than any variety grown in the
Central West. It scores high for pies, dump-
lings, jelly and marmalade, and well up the
list for sauce. It is also one of the best dessert
or eating apples. It is mild in flavor, the flesh
is fine grained and juicy and the aroma is very
pleasing. It is a beautiful waxen yellow with
pink cheek. Fruit is medium to large, flat.
The tree is quite hardy and is recommended
for planting except in the extreme north and
west parts of the Central West. August and
September.
-DUDLEY. This is a seedling of the Duchess
of Oldenburg, and is apparently as hardy and
productive as that variety, but its season is
about two months later. A valuable variety
for the Northwest.
RAMSDELL. This old variety is esteemed
wherever grown for the annual crops which it
bears of large, handsome fruit, conical,
splashed and striped with dark red; flesh very
tender, mellow, unusually sweet and rich, excel-
lent. Fine for dessert or pickling and preserv-
ing. Tree very vigorous and comes into bear-
ing early. October to December.
WARFIELD. Originated in Muscatine, Iowa.
Tree hardy and thrifty, vigorous grower, an
early and abundant bearer. Fruit large, light
waxen yellow with blush in the sun, sparkled
with gray dots. The stem is slender, calix large
and open, flesh white and moderately juicy;
mild. Good dessert apple.
BAILEY SWEET. Fruit large, striped. Sep-
tember.
DYER. Medium size, pale greenish-yellow,
good. August and September.
FALL STRIPE (Saxton). Medium to small
size, covered with light and dark stripes. Good
quality. September.
FALL WINESAP. Fruit medium size; green
with red blush; very good. September.
FAMEUSE (Snow Apple). Medium size;
whitish ground, striped with red; flesh white,
Delicious
Bell
juicy, fine quality; tree blights. October and
November.
FULTON STRAWBERRY. Medium sized,
streaked, desirable. August and September.
PRICE SWEET. Medium to large, greenish-
yellow, streaked and splashed with dull red;
very good quality. Perfectly hardy. September.
UTTER. Large, good quality. September to
October. Perfectly hardy.
WOLF RIVER. Very large and handsome.
September and October.
WINTER APPLES
BEN DAVIS. Almost too well known to need
a description. Large, smooth, often mottled
and splashed, nearly covered with red; mild.
Until recently this has been one of the most
profitable market fruits in the Central West.
On account of its susceptibility to “Canker” it
is losing favor and is not now planted so ex-
tensively. However, growers giving their
orchard good care are still partial to Ben Davis
and it is thought by some prominent fruit grow-
ers that it will soon win back, at least partially,
its former favor. It has been most popular
south of the Nebraska-Dakota state line and
east of the 100th principal meridian and should
not be planted extensively north and west of
these lines. It is a very long keeping variety,
a splendid pie, sauce and baking apple. It
bears young. December to April.
DELICIOUS. This variety is one of the most
popular, if not the most popular dessert or eat-
ing apple on the market. It is fully as good
as its name implies — it is truly “Delicious.” It
is medium to large, oblong and of the sheep-
nose type. Color light green, shaded, splashed
and mottled with light and dark crimson. It
is fine grained, juicy, mild. Is fully as hardy as
Winesap and should be given a place in every
home orchard in the eastern half of Nebraska,
Iowa and south and east. It is a valuable com-
mercial variety in the Missouri River sections
from Sioux City south.
GANG. This variety is supposed to be a cross
between Ben Davis and Jonathan. It resem-
bles Ben Davis very closely both in tree and
fruit except the color in which the red is evenly
overspread and shows no inclination to be
striped. In hardiness, keeping qualities and
season it is very similar to Ben Davis. This va-
riety is preferred by some commercial growers
on account of its better color. ,,
Page Nine
GRIMES (Grimes Golden). An apple of the
highest quality. It is one of the fancy dessert
apples and ranks with Delicious and Jonathan
on the markets. Medium to large; bright yel-
low with pink cheek; flesh fine grained, juicy,
with a very pleasing spicy flavor. Like Jona-
than it is equally adapted to almost all culli-
nary uses as well as for eating out of the hand.
For pies, marmalade, sauce and dumplings, it
is one of the best. It has hardly enough acid
for the best jelly apple. The tree is hardy,
grows upright and is quite disease and insect
resistant. Season of fruit, November to Jan-
uary.
JONATHAN. This variety is probably better
known to average consumers of dessert apples
than any other variety. It is recognized on all
markets of the country as one of the best
among the few leaders of high quality eating
apples. The fact that its qualities and flavor
are also superior and outstanding when used
for culinary purposes adds to its popularity.
The fruit is medium size, red and beautiful.
The tree is slightly slow of growth when young,
but grows stronger as it attains age. It bears
young and abundantly. It is quite hardy and
thrives in all of the Central West except in the
drier portions of the northwest part. Season
November to February.
♦MALINDA. One of the best winter apples
for the North. Will grow and thrive much
farther north and west than standard sorts like
Jonathan and Winesap. Should be planted only
in the North and West. Fruit medium to large ;
skin rich yellow, with dull red blush; flesh
firm, juicy, mild, almost sweet. An excellent
baking apple, and suitable for sauce and pies.
Season January to April.
^NORTHWESTERN (Northwestern Greening) .
Tree of Wisconsin origin; vigorous grower and
considered very hardy in that section; fruit
large, smooth and handsome, of a greenish-yel-
low color. In favor wherever grown; a valua-
able variety. Indispensable north.
♦PATTON'S GREENING. Another of the ex-
tra hardy sort for the prairies of the North-
west. Fruit large; green with often a blush of
red or brown; flesh rather coarse but firm.
Fine for sauce, pies, jelly and baking. Season
November to January. Plant only where condi-
tions are severe.
♦SALOME. Above medium in size, partly
shaded and striped with dull red, beautiful, ten-
der, mild, slightly aromatic; very good. De-
cember to March. A very fair dessert apple
and very good for sauce and jelly. Its hardi-
ness, long keeping, good quality, uniform size,
will no doubt make it valuable for the North
and Northwest. Perfectly hardy and should
be in every orchard.
STAYMAN WINESAP. Resembles Winesap,
only larger and more striped. Tender, juicy,
mild, splendid, A favorite commercial apple on
city markets. Is desirable for both dessert and
culinary purposes. Tree is a good grower,
hardy and bears well as far as tested.
♦UNIVERSITY. A seedling of the Duchess.
Tree is a very vigorous and spreading grower;
fruit large, very regular; surface a clear yellow
on sunny side; flesh sub-acid; quality good.
Tree hardy.
Jonathan
WINESAP. Medium size, dark red, juicy,
mild. A favorite late winter apple and a lead-
ing commercial variety on all markets, as
well as a very popular home apple in the West.
Should be planted liberally both in commercial
and home orchards south of Nebraska-Dakota
state line and east of 100th principal meridian.
Is a high class dessert apple; also good to very
good for sauce, pies, jelly and marmalade. De-
cember to April.
WINDSOR (Windsor Chief) — Medium to
large; greenish-yellow, suffused with red
splashes, becoming quite red when ripe; flesh
pale yellow, sometimes streaked with red; fine
grained; juicy, mild, quality excellent. Is very
much esteemed as a dessert apple. Fine for
baking. Tree an upright, moderate grower, be-
coming stronger as it attains age. Early annual
bearer; very prolific. December to March.
Originated in Wisconsin. The highest award
was won at the Paris Exposition from apples of
this variety grown in our orchards near Ar-
lington.
Winter Apples of Merit, But Not So
Valuable in the Central West
I SHAM. Fruit large, oblong, conical, green-
ish-yellow; striped with dull red. November to
January.
ARKANSAS (Mammoth Black Twig). Large,
dark red, handsome; quality good. December
to March.
IOWA BLUSH. Medium in size, whitish with
red cheek; quality fine; tree vigorous and
hardy on the prairies. November to January.
MINKLER. Fruit medium, splashed with
red; flesh compact, moderately juicy, mild,
pleasant. Tree moderately hardy. January to
April.
MISSOURI (Missouri Pippin). Medium size,
bright red, an early and abundant bearer. De-
cember to March.
Page Ten
\jf(arshalls JVarseries
Avling^op^ J^6v.
NORTHERN SPY. Fruit large, striped with
purplish-crimson; tender, very juicy. Novem-
ber and December.
PEWAUKEE. Fruit very large, green,
striped and splashed with red. Hardy. Sep-
tember.
RALL’S (Janet or Geniton). Medium; has
mixed and striped crimson on yellow and green;
flavor is mild, vinous and refreshing. Popular
as a home fruit. The blossoms appear later
than any other sort, and thus they sometimes
escape spring frosts. February to April.
ROMAN STEM. Fruit medium, whitish-yel-
low, splashed with russet; flesh tender, juicy,
rich musky flavor; fine dessert apple; moder-
ately hardy. November and December.
WESTFIELD (Seek-No-Further). Medium to
large; slightly russeted with dull red stripes,
tender, rich, spicy and fine; good bearer; mod-
erately hardy. October to January.
SHERIFF (American Beauty). Above me-
dium, nearly covered with light and dark red
stripes; early bearer, productive and moderate-
ly hardy. November to February.
TOLMAN, Medium, pale yellow, firm, rich
and very sweet. October to December.
VIRGINIA BEAUTY. Fruit medium to large,
handsome and regular in form, with very dark
red color. Quality excellent, mild. Season Sep-
tember to January.
*WALBRIDGE. Medium size, striped with
red, good cooking; very hardy and considered
Winesap
of value in the North and Northwest. Decem-
ber to January.
YORK IMPERIAL. Medium, white, shaded
with crimson; flesh firm, crisp, juicy; a good
bearer and keeper; moderately hardy. Novem-
ber to April.
CRAB APPLES
WITHIN the past few years much attention has been given to improving
this class of fruit, because of their adaptability to cold sections, where
only a few varieties of apples can be successfully grown. These efforts
have been attended with marked success. Crab Apples succeed equally well in all
sections, and are valuable for cider, preserves, jelly, pickles, and some of the im-
proved sorts are excellent for eating.
♦FLORENCE. Fruit waxen, yellow and red,
medium size, very handsome and good quality.
Fine for jellies, preserves and pickles. Tree
perfectly hardy; is an early and annual bearer.
September.
HYSLOP. Large, dark red, sub-acid; bears
its fruit in clusters; good eating and cooking;
very hardy; very popular. When over-ripe be-
comes “floury.” September.
♦LARGE RED (Siberian). Large, pale red
and yellow; good quality, large tree, with
coarse foliage; early bearer, fruit much larger
than the common Siberian.
SHIELDS. Originated in Wisconsin; tree is
large, shapely, beautiful, perfectly hardy and a
good bearer; fruit large; yellow striped and
splashed with red. Splendid quality. Don’t
overlook this variety.
♦TRANSCENDENT. Yellow, striped with
red; good eating; fine for preserving or pick-
ling; good for cooking; makes good cider and
jelly; immensely productive, very early bearer.
Blights to death in eastern Nebraska. Adapted
to North and West.
♦WHITNEY. One of the largest, glossy
green, splashed with carmine; firm and juicy,
best quality; an ironclad; a great bearer.
Ripens in August. Makes a fine white cider.
Fine for preserves and jellies.
♦YELLOW SIBERIAN. Medium size, good
quality; tree hardy. Excellent for pickling.
Hyslop Crab
Page Eleven
PEARS
PEAR growing, at one time, was considered a failure in Nebraska. With bet-
ter knowledge of varieties and culture, pears are succeeding to such a degree
that considerable commercial planting has been done in eastern Nebraska of
recent years. We have faith in a carefully selected list of pears when properly
cared for. Plant only two or three varieties; try to get well ripened growth,
give only fair cultivation. Be content with an annual growth of from twelve to
eighteen inches. Rank, late growth is o:
five inches deeper than stood in nursery.
The hardiest varieties marked with
For planting, pruning and care, see
BARTLETT. Large size, with often a beau-
tiful blush to the sun; buttery, very juicy and
high flavored, bears early and abundantly. Very
popular. Blights with us. August.
BIRKETT, A strong growing, beautiful tree;
blight proof and hardy. Fruit medium in size
and quality; a good bearer. Fine for canning
and preserving.
^FLEMISH. Large, red cheeked, beautiful,
excellent quality, productive; one of the hardi-
est; very popular in the TVest.
*KIEFFER. This pear was raised from seed
of the Chinese Sand Pear, accidentally crossed
with the Bartlett or some other kind grown
near it. Tree has large, dark green glossy
leaves, and is of itself very ornamental; an
early and annual bearer; the fruit is showy,
valuable for canning, and never rots at the core.
Is nearly blight-proof. October and November.
S ECKEL. Small, but of the highest flavor;
a standard of excellence; a slow grower, but
bears early. Ripens last of August. Produc-
tive.
SHELDON. Large, plump and round; rus-
seted; is handsome and good; one of the most
reliable for the Central West.
*LOUISE (L. B. De Jersey). Rather large,
green-yellow, with a bright red cheek; juicy,
buttery and melting; excellent; very produc-
tive as dwarf only. August and September.
ten the cause of disease. Plant four or
and twelve to eighteen feet apart,
asterisk (*).
page 3.
*ANGOULEME (Duchess). Is very large,
dull greenish yellow, streaked and spotted with
russet. Flesh white, buttery and very juicy,
rich, very excellent flavor. This variety and
Louise, when grown as dwarfs, are more profit-
able than standard sorts. Bear at two years
from planting. These varieties have borne
eleven crops in fourteen years in our orchards.
DWARF PEAR TREES
The pear is one fruit that can be grown prof-
itably as a dwarf tree. It differs from a stand-
ard tree in that it is grafted on a quince root.
This retards its growth and makes a dwarf tree.
This slower growth makes it more resistant to
blight and other pear tree troubles than the
standards, which grow more rapidly. It also
causes the tree to bear earlier; some times pro-
ducing fruit the second year, and often quite
heavily the third and fourth years after plant-
ing. They may be planted much closer (8 to 12
feet apart) than the standards, which makes
them very desirable for city planting and for a
limited space on home grounds. The Louise
and Angouleme are the best suited varieties
for dwarfing. See descriptions of these varie-
ties above. A few dwarf pear trees should be
in every home orchard or garden in the Middle
West.
Page Twelve
CHERRIES
Every home owner whether in city, village or country, can plant cherries.
Every housewife likes them for canning. They are one of the first fruits to
ripen and one of the most resistant to insects and disease. Plant a few
each year. Plant twelve to twenty feet apart. For planting, pruning and care,
see page 4.
MAY DUKE. This is the most popular of all
the Dukes and is doing well here. An upright,
beautiful grower and bears well. Fruit large,
oblate, dark red. Is not affected by the leaf
rust so destructive in wet seasons. Sweeter
than Richmond and Montmorency. Is fine to
eat from the hand as well as for canning.
*Morello. Medium to large; is blackish red;
rich acid, juicy and good; very productive. This
is an excellent late canning variety. Its color,
both skin and. flesh, is a black red which gives
it a very rich appearance. It is better adapted
to sections of medium to light rainfall than to
the lower more moist parts of the Central West.
♦MONTMORENCY. Large, red, acid; larger
than Early Richmond and ten days later; pro-
lific and perfectly hardy and indispensable in
the higher altitudes. Quality the very best.
This variety is getting to be one of the popular
home orchard sorts and is now the leading
commercial variety in the Central West.
♦RICHMOND. Medium, red, fine when well
ripened. Tree hardy and very productive. This
variety has been widely planted and has given
general satisfaction. Home planters are now
planting these in equal numbers with Montmo-
rency, thus extending the season to about four
weeks.
WRAGG. Same as Morello.
COMPASS CHERRY-PLUM
This hardy northern fruit was originated in
Minnesota and is a cross between the sand
cherry of the plains and native wild plum. It
will grow and thrive where extreme cold and
semi-arid conditions prevail. It usually bears
the second year from graft and often nursery
trees are loaded down. The quality is much
better than that of the sand cherry, having lost
much of the astringency of this parent in hy-
bridization. The flesh is more firm than that
of most native plums, making it valuable for
preserving. It is also prized by many to eat
from the hand. Every home, especially in the
North and West should have some of these
trees. They will abundantly bear fruit that will
be thoroughly appreciated.
ooinpass Cherry
Page Thirteen
Waneta Plum
PLUMS
PLUMS are used for canning, sauce, butters, jelly, and eating from the hand.
This fruit has been improved very rapidly in recent years. Varieties of high-
est quality only a few years ago have now been discarded for newer and bet-
ter ones. We have been testing out in our trial grounds many new varieties of
promise, and are pleased to state that we are now offering some varieties that are
really worth while. We have discarded almost all of the pure Japanese and Eu-
ropean sorts as they are only semi-hardy, and we now have hybrids with quality
fully equal to these kinds and much hardier. Read the descriptions. Plant Plums
ten to eighteen feet apart. Select more than one variety to insure proper fer-
tilization of bloom. Plums are self sterile to quite an extent.
The hardier varieties marked with asterisk (*).
For planting, pruning and care, see page 4.
OMAHA. A valuable new plum, originated
by the late Theodore Williams of Benson,
Nebraska. Very large. The flavor is excel-
lent; meat is solid and pit small. A favorite
from the tree and one of the best canning
plums grown. Its size, texture, and flavor re-
semble the Burbank, one of the leading Cali-
fornia plums, and as a market plum it sells
quite as readily. This variety is one that we
will guarantee to please the most critical and
its hardiness and productiveness in severe cli-
mates makes it very valuable. Perfectly hardy
in Minnesota. Season medium.
*LARSON. Originated by Mr. Larson of
Washington County, Nebraska; grown from
seed brought from Denmark. Fruit large; dull
bluish red; handsome and of the best quality;
semi-freestone. The flavor is particularly pleas-
ing making it a favorite for eating from the
hand. Excellent for jelly and butter. Early
ripening.
STELLA. This is one of the best of the crea-
tions of Mr. Williams for territory east of the
Rocky Mountains. Stella is as beautiful as a
plum can be, and one of the most dependable;
large, glossy, coral red, almost proof against rot
and insect attack. Excellent to eat from the
hand and fine for canning, butter and jelly.
The flavor is more mild than the pure American
sorts.
*WOLF. Large, dark red; good quality. Ex-
tra fine for jelly and canning. It is a vigorous
grower, entirely hardy, and an abundant bear-
er; one of the very best pure American sorts.
Page Fourteen
Jiarshalls JVarsories
Avlingion, J^6v,
Has given satisfaction in all
parts of our territory. Season
August.
*WYANT. Large, round, ob-
long, purple-red, thick skin
which peels readily; flesh firm;
a perfect freestone and of excel-
lent quality. Is very fine for
jelly and butter and an excellent
plum from the tree. Ripens in
August. Has been our leading
variety in northern Nebraska
and South Dakota for a number
of years.
LOMBARD. Large, greenish-
blue, flesh yellowish-green;
juicy and pleasant. A mild fla-
vored, solid flesh plum. Fine
for eating from the hand and for
canning. Ripens in August; tree
vigorous; one of the most widely
cultivated plums of America.
One of the best of the European
sorts. Moderately hardy.
BOHEMIAN (Prune). An
early continuous bearer. Fruit
of medium size, prune shaped,
blue, freeston; much better than
German Prune. A fine canning
and eating variety. The best
prune for the Central West.
Moderately hardy.
Omaha
♦HANSEN’S HYBRID PLUMS
Professor N. E. Hansen of the South Dakota
Experiment Station, one of the leading horticul-
turists of America and authority on horticulture
in the Northwest, has been working for twenty-
five years to develop hardy strains of fruit for
Sapa
the bleak prairies of the Northwest. The U. S.
Government sent him to Siberia to find and
bring back super-hardy trees and plants for
the more rigorous sections of this country.
Through his explorations, hybridization and se-
lection, he has brought out numerous hardy va-
rieties that are very valuable for the northwest
plains. Among the most important and valu-
able are several varieties of plums, extra hardy
and of superior quality. They are so good that
they are replacing some of the leading high
class varieties even in sections of the country
where climate is not to be considered — where
any varieties of plums are hardy. We have the
best of these, and describe them below. Of all
the varieties introduced, we find those listed
below are the best. Plant a half dozen or a
dozen on your home ground. You will be en-
thusiastic over their quality and bearing.
HANSKA. Hanska is Sioux Indian for “tall,”
alluding to the extremely rapid growth in nurs-
ery and orchard. Three-year old trees attain a
height of twelve feet.
The female parent is a seedling of our wild
northwestern plum (Prunus Americana) ; the
male parent is the large, firm-fleshed, fragrant,
apricot-plum of China (Prunus Simoni), popu-
lar in the orchards of California.
The fruit of this variety is much admired for
its beautiful color, which is bright red, with
heavy blue bloom, firm yellow flesh, good qual-
ity and rich fragrance. The fruit is one and
one-half inches to one and nine-sixteenths
inches in diameter, often larger. When cooked,
the apricot flavor is brought out to perfection,
entirely unlike any native plum. The flat shape
also distinguishes it from all the other hardy
plums in the Northwest.
Page Fifteen
— -rgr- — -■« — -w ^^“«a V W W w ~V> ^ \
Qrees ^hruSs ccnd ^Canis
» <» <a <» all sei_ ^ so «• A @ — )
Stella
The Hanska has been known to bear heavy
crops when native plums were almost a total
failure. Begins to bear at two years. Very
small pit. Exceedingly hardy and vigorous.
WAN ETA. This is undoubtedly Professor
Hansen’s masterpiece in plums. It combines
hardiness, immense size, delicious quality, long
keeping, beautiful color, small pit, and early
bearing, often producing a good crop in two
years from planting. Following is Professor
Hansen’s own description of this variety: “This
is the largest of all the Hansen Hybrid Plums.
It is a 2-inch, 2-ounce plum, and of very strong
growth in nursery. An early heavy and per-
sistent annual bearer of delicious plums of im-
mense size. It is a cross of the America, a
large Japanese plum, with pollen of the Terry,
the largest native plum. The Waneta combines
in large measure the most desirable points of
the native and the Japanese plums. In a visit
to the 1920 Iowa State Fair at Des Moines, I
noticed that Waneta and the sister variety
Kahinta, were by far the largest plums on ex-
hibition.”
KAHINTA. Very much like the Waneta;
very promising.
OPATA (Sioux Indian for “bouquet). First
to ripen. At blooming time it is a gigantic bou-
quet of pure white flowers of most exquisite
fragrance. Blooming just a little later than the
ordinary or American plum, and in this way es-
caping frost dangers. Again when the fruit
is ripe combine the large leathery foliage and
the dark purplish-red fruit, with blue bloom, it
is indeed a bouquet at that time. The Opata is
a cross from the Dakota Sandy Cherry and the
Gold Plum, originated by Luther Burbank, and
for which $3,000 was paid when first intro-
duced. Tree is vigorous in growth, heading
very low and of quite spreading habits, and we
recommend that you allow it to grow rather in
this form than in the regular high trunked trim-
med, tree form. It forms fruit buds freely at
one year old and bears without exception the
next year. Color of flashy green, flavor very
pleasant, combining the spicy acid of the Sand
Cherry with the rich sweetness of the Gold
Plum. Ripens with us about July 10th, and will
hang on the trees in good condition for about
two weeks. Generally free from rot, and almost
immune from the sting of the Curculio.
SAP A (Sioux Indian for Black). The female
parent is one of our selected seedlings of the
western Sand Cherry, a favorite of the Sioux
Indians; the male parent a very large, purple-
fleshed Japanese Plum originated by Luther
Burbank of California, and by him named the
Sultan. An extremely early bearer; one-year
old trees in nursery row have many fruit buds.
Fruit medium, glossy dark purple skin; flesh
rich, dark purplish-red, fine flavor. Sapa Plums
raised at Brookings, South Dakota, were one
and three-eighths inches in diameter, weight
five-eighths ounce, on one-year old trees set
the preceding year and bearing a heavy crop.
Season very early. Should also be grown in
bush form.
APRICOTS
This fruit is a close relative of the plum and peach, combining the qualities
of both. The fruit ripens after the early cherries and just before plums
and peaches. Tree is fully as hardy as the peach and requires about the
same culture. It ships well and commands a good price in the markets, and for
drying and canning, it has no superior. Russian varieties are the earliest and
most hardy. Blooms early and are sometimes caught by frost.
ALEXANDER (Russian). Medium to small,
light orange, yellow flecked with red; flesh ten-
der, juicy, sweet and good quality; hardy; pro-
ductive. July.
BUDD (Russian). Medium to large; light
orange with blush on sunny side; flesh sweet,
juicy, with flavor of the peach; hardy and pro-
ductive. August.
Page Sixteen
PEACHES
The north part of Nebraska is not a peach country, and it is only by pains-
taking care that we grow even a limited supply of the better class. The
peach prefers a well drained loam. We recommend the following sorts,
which we think hardy enough to stand without protection in the southern half of
Nebraska. Please remember the “star” (*) sorts will do best in the greater part
of the state.
For planting, pruning and care, see page 4.
ALEXANDER. Size medium to large, hand-
some and regular in form, with deep maroon
shade, covered with the richest tint of crimson;
fair in quality, with a vinous flavor; adheres to
the stone; should remain on the tree until fully
ripe. The earliest peach.
BAILEY. An Iowa seedling. Tree dwarfish,
spreading willowy habit; peach is slightly be-
low medium size, light yellow, splashed with
red on sunny side, flesh white, best quality,
small pit, profuse bearer; has proven to be
much hardier than any of the old varieties.
Season September.
♦CHAMPION. Originated in Illinois; fruit
is large, beautiful in appearance; flavor de-
licious, sweet, rich and juicy; skin is creamy
white, with red cheek, becoming quite red when
ripe. Freestone; season last of August. Tree
vigorous. One of the very hardiest and best
varieties for Nebraska.
♦CROSBY. Medium, rich orange yellow, with
blush; freestone, pit small, flesh yellow, juicy
and sweet. Tree low, spreading, willowy habit
of growth; perfectly hardy in a peach country.
Season August.
♦WHITFORD. Originated by C. A. Whitford
of Arlington, Neb., and is one of the best free-
stone peaches for Nebraska that we know of.
A rich golden yellow, sometimes slightly
flushed; quality rich and delicious; a reliable
bearer and as hardy as Wright’s or Bailey. Sea-
son September.
♦WRIGHT. Originated in Nebraska. Similar
to Bailey. A good one for Nebraska. Season
September.
Whitford
Page Seventeen
GRAPES
The grape is at home in the West. In our deep soils, bright sun and dry at-
mosphere, it attains its highest perfection. There is scarcely a yard so
small, either in city or country, that room for a dozen to fifty vines cannot
be found, furnishing an abundance for family use. To grow grapes successfully,
plant in well drained soil. Plant six to eight feet apart in rows six feet apart.
For planting, pruning and care see page 5.
BLACK GRAPES
*BETA. This grape is extremely hardy and
will stand without protection into North Da-
kota. It was introduced by Professor Green of
Minnesota, and is becoming very popular
throughout Minnesota and the Dakotas. The
fruit is medium size, fair quality and a very
heavy bearer. We recommend the Beta for the
North where other grapes winter-kill — it will
thrive and bear abundantly.
*CONCORD. Bunches large, berries large,
round; skin thick and covered with bloom;
flesh juicy, sweet. Vine very hardy, vigorous
and productive; at present the most popular
of all our native sorts.
* MOO RE. A large, black grape of the Con-
cord type, the entire crop ripening before the
Concord; bunch medium, berries large with
blue bloom; flesh pulpy and of good quality.
Vine is hardy, moderately productive, better as
it attains age. Planted extensively as a mar-
ket sort.
WORDEN. This variety is a seedling of the
Concord, which it greatly resembles in appear-
ance and flavor, but the berries are larger, the
fruit is better flavored and ripens several days
earlier.
Concord
Beta Grape
CAMPBELL. Bunches medium to large,
berries large, glossy, black with a beautiful blue
bloom. Pulp sweet and juicy. Good. Seeds
small and few in number. Season ten days
earlier than Concord. New and promising,
RED GRAPES
AGAWAM. Vigorous grower; large, round,
with rich, peculiar aromatic flavor; very desir-
able; should be covered in winter.
^BRIGHTON. A cross between Concord and
Diana Hamburg; bunches large, berries of me-
dium size, flesh sweet, tender and of the high-
est quality; ripens early; dark red, when fully
ripe almost purple. Healthy but should be laid
down and covered with litter in late fall.
WHITE GRAPES
ELVIRA. A very strong, robust and healthy
grower; very productive, hardy. Bunch and
berries of medium size and very compact; qual-
ity medium. September.
*POCKLINGTON. Is a seedling of the Con-
cord; vine hardy, both in wood and foliage;
strong grower; called a white grape, but the
fruit is a golden yellow; clear, juicy and sweet
to the center, with little or no pulp; bunches
very large, sometimes shouldered; berries
round, very large, and thickly set; quality,
when fully ripe, sweet and richly flavored; per-
fectly hardy.
Page Eighteen
I Marshalls JViirseries Jlrlingfon, J^Gr.
^ ^ ^ ■■ ^ ^ ^ ■ to> . rfk
NIAGARA. Clusters large and handsome,
compactly filled with large berries, having a
thin but tough skin. When fully ripe they are
a fine pale yellow, with a thin white bloom, and
the foxy aroma of an earlier stage has almost
disappeared; the flesh is slightly pulpy, tender,
sweet and delightful. Vine is fairly vigorous
and productive. Ripens with Concord.
JUNEBERRY
DWARF. Grows four to six feet high;
bunches out from the ground like currants; re-
sembles the common Servis or Juneberry in
leaf and fruit, but the fruit is larger, and in
color almost black; commences to bear the sec-
ond year after transplanting, and bears pro-
fusely. No farm or garden should be without
this most excellent dessert.
r, -■ ^
LANDSCAPE
SERVICE
Read about our Landscaping Service
on page 45 of this catalog.
Let Us Help You
i ■ -- ...
GOOSEBERRIES
IN order to produce large, abundant crops of gooseberries it is necessary to
manure heavily and prune closely; they require about the same location,
treatment, etc., as the currant, except they will stand more sun. Plant four
feet apart. See page 4 for “planting and care.”
♦CARRIE. Originated in Minnesota. Fruit
medium to large. A strong grower and very
productive. Excellent quality. After the third
year the bush loses its thorns. Hardy.
CHAMPION. Medium to large size; quality
good; free from mildew; bush large and
healthy; very productive.
DOWNING. Fruit large; flesh whitish green,
soft, juicy and good; plant vigorous and pro-
lific; one of the very best.
♦HOUGHTON. The old well-known sort;
pale red; quality good. It is rather small, but
productive, healthy and a very reliable goose-
berry.
Carrie
Page Nineteen
£7reGS ^hruBs anci ^Canis
CURRANTS
The value of Currants needs no rehearsing. We seldom see them missing
from the well kept garden. Every one knows their value as a household
necessity; nothing makes such jelly, with perhaps, the one exception, the
crab, and even that must give way to the bright color produced by the Currant.
Where half-a-dozen currant bushes were once the extent of cultivation, we
now see acres utilized to supply the demand of our cities. No one can afford to
leave this well tried fruit out of their list for a complete collection.
Currants love a cool, deep soil, and a little shade. Among fruit trees or along
the north side of a fence is a good place,
cultivation and plenty of manure. The
following varieties will give good satis-
faction.
For planting, pruning and care see
page 4.
CHERRY. Well known; large, bright crim-
son, very acid; an old favorite; one of the larg-
est currants.
*FAY. Very prolific if properly cared for.
It is a gross feeder, and requires liberal fertili-
zation. It is healthy, vigorous and very pro-
ductive; the bunches are long, and easily
picked; commands a high price; berries large
and hold their size well to the end of the bunch;
bright red, of good flavor, and more acid than
most varieties.
*NORTH STAR. Both berry and bunch are
very large; the fruit is superior, very sweet and
rich in quality, firm; a very good market cur-
rant; desirable as a dessert fruit in the natural
state, and unequaled for jelly.
VICTORIA. Large, bright red; bunches very
long; late; very productive and valuable. This
is a standard, very good and reliable currant,
and will suit everybody.
*WHITE GRAPE. Very large, white; this is
the very best table variety of currants known;
sweet or very mild acid; good grower, hardy,
perfectly satisfactory in every respect, and a
currant we most heartily recommend for any
purpose.
BLACKBERRIES
PLANT in rich soil and a little shade, among trees, or on north side of trees
or fence, if possible. Of all varieties tested, the Snyder has proven the har-
diest, and Stone's Hardy second. Plant three feet apart in rows six feet
apart. For planting and culture see page 4.
versally planted.
DEWBERRY (Lucretia). This is the finest
of its class; one that has proven successful; a
strong grower. It is really a new trailing black-
berry, easily protected in winter. Set the
plants two feet apart in the row; cover in win-
ter with coarse litter and mulch the plants with
it in the spring, thus keeping them off the
ground.
STONE. It is a vigorous grower; berry glos-
sy black and of good flavor; a little later than
Snyder.
*SNYDER. Medium in size, sweet and good,
strong grower; very productive; extremely
hardy; has fully proven its value. After all the
experience we have had with blackberries, we
are thoroughly convinced that this is the berry
for the West and Northwest. Should be uni-
No matter how good the soil, give good
North Star Currant
Page Twenty
yf^arshaUs JVhvseries Avlingion, J^6v.
Cumberland Raspberries
RASPBERRIES
The raspberry is one of the most delicious and popular fruits grown. They
are always in demand in season and command good prices on the markets.
For canning purposes they are unexcelled. They are easily cultivated and
require little care. Cut out the old and weak shoots each year; plant in good
soils in hills about four feet apart. With a little care and attention they will pro-
duce large crops of berries. For planting and care see page 4. The follow-
ing are best adapted to the West.
BLACK RASPBERRIES
^CUMBERLAND. Berries very large and
even in size; bears very abundantly; ripens
between the Kansas and Gregg. Strong grower
and one of the hardiest. The best all-around
black Raspberry known.
GREGG. A good late black cap and popular
variety. Canes of strong vigorous growth, and
under good culture very productive; berries are
large and of a fine flavor; it requires a good,
strong soil to produce the best results; it is not
entirely hardy, but suffers during unusually se-
vere winters.
NEMAHA. The best late black cap. This
fine berry originated in Nemaha County, Ne-
braska, a seedling of the Gregg, and is almost
identical; fruit a little later and of better qual-
ity; and is hardier than the parent; thus a bet-
ter berry for general planting.
*CARDINAL. A very valuable cross between
the red and the black. Thrifty and productive;
quality good. It is by far the best of the cross-
es yet introduced. Fruit purple. Hardy. A
good one.
RED RASPBERRIES
LOUDON. The hardiest and most productive
of the red varieties; very large and of the best
quality.
TURNER. A beautiful berry, of fine size and
excellent quality; one of the hardiest and
most reliable varieties known.
ST. REGIS (Everbearing). It bears the first
season. Plants of the St. Regis put out in early
part of April gave ripe berries on the 20th of
June and continued to produce ripe fruit until
late October.
We transplant our shade and street
trees several times. It gives them the
kind of roots that make transplanting
easy.
Page Twenty-one
STRAWBERRIES
The strawberry has been styled the queen of fruits. It is the first to ripen
and the quickest to come into bearing. Can be successfully grown on a
great variety of soils; responds readily to kindly location and liberal feed-
ing and culture. Every home builder who fails to have an abundance of this de-
licious health-giving fruit misses a chance of great things for little money. The
strawberry prefers a cool, moist soil; good upland soil is the best, well enriched.
Spring planting is best.
Of the hundreds of varieties that have been introduced we offer only a
small number of the best, all of which will thrive under any ordinary care. Be
sure to note (*) varieties, as we believe these two (Warfield and Dunlap), when
planted together, will give the planter more real satisfaction and better value than
any other two varieties of standards.
For planting and care see page 5.
-WARFIELD (Imp.) We place
this at the head of the list of
valuable berries, excepting the
Dunlap, because after being well
tested over about every state in
the Union it is considered one
of the best berries grown, all
things considered, that go to
make a profitable berry. The
Warfield, when planted with
Dunlap as a fertilizer, will pro-
duce more good, marketable
fruit on our grounds than any
other we can now name.
Progressive
EVERBEARING
Strawberries that yielded fruit
continuously from May until
frost have been known for a
long time. The new cultivated
sorts were originated by cross-
pollinating these wild everbear-
ing Alpine sorts with our stand-
ard varieties and combining the
everbearing habits of the one
parent and the size and quality
of the other.
We have been testing the dif-
ferent varieties of everbearers
for several years on our own
grounds, and offer to our patrons
only three varieties — the Ameri-
cas, Superb and Progressive.
We are recommending the Pro-
gressive only as it is superior
in almost every respect to the
other varieties.
BEDERWOOD. This has been well tested all
over the country, and holds first place as a good
fertilizer for most pistillates, and one of the
best bearers of excellent fruit of good size and
quality; will stand an unusual amount of
drouth; commences ripening early and lasts a
long time.
*DUNLAP. Originated in Illinois and is of
the Warfield type. One of the best all around
varieties ever introduced; has a perfect blos-
som, is hardy and productive; is able to hold
its own under any rough and tumble treatment,
bringing every berry to maturity, and is the
nearest perfect in every respect of any berry
we know of. We believe it to
be one of the greatest berries
ever introduced.
Page Twenty- two
The Progressive, a hand pollinated cross be-
tween an everbearer and Senator Dunlap, is
the climax of all everbearers. Earlier as a
spring crop than any other berry; of better
quality than any common variety; staminate,
and almost as free a plant maker as its parent,
the Dunlap. A persistent bearer from May to
November. Fruit of fair size, resembling the
Dunlap. New stolons are frequently in bloom
before they have taken root. Its heaviest bear-
ing records are under irrigation. “Our best Ne-
braska record without irrigation is: 100 plants
set April 10 allowed to produce berries after
July, produced 90 quarts to September 10, and
were still averaging one quart per day. They
require the same treatment as other berries,
and, like other strawberries, respond liberally
to good treatment.’ —G. S. Christy, ex-President
Nebraska State Horticultural Society.
Dunlap f
Asparagus
This much neglected vegetable is very
easily grown and should find a place in
every city and farm garden. Such im-
mense quantities of it can be grown on a small
space that no home owner can afford to be
without it. This vegetable is rich in vitamines,
which are so essential to health, and especially
Conover Asparagus
to the development of children. The Asparagus
roots should be planted in well-prepared beds,
the soil of which has been enriched by liberal
quantities of well rotted manure. For use it
should be cut just at the top of the ground
when it is from three to five inches high. This
is one of the earliest of vegetables, the shoots
coming out before the frost is' hardly out of
the ground.
CONOVER. Is the best for general planting,
and is largely grown.
PALMETTO. Early; is a very reliable va-
riety.
Rhubarb
LINNAEUS. Early, tender and good; season
long.
VICTORIA. Very large, long, tender stems.
A Small Investment Adds
Great Value
Have you ever given careful considera-
tion to the question of how much a few
trees and shrubs would add to the value
and beauty of your home?
An investment of $15.00 to $50.00 can
be made to add from $100.00 to $500.00 to
the selling value of a property. We can
offer you plain practical suggestions as
to how it can be done.
Page Twenty-three
ORNAMENTAL DEPARTMENT
tai — -w -r-16 ^ «a V w
^TveGS ^BituBs ccnd B/^Can'ts
DECIDUOUS TREES
The many ways in which Deciduous Trees are used make them among the
most important productions of the modern nursery. There is growing
^ constantly a deeper appreciation of trees, and more people know them and
love them than ever before in the history of the country. Greater attention than
ever is being paid to the trees along the city's streets, and it is well recognized
that shade and shelter trees around the farm home not only add to its beauty
and comfort, but greatly increase the value of the property.
The trees we offer in the following list are all thrifty, vigorous specimens
which have, by cultivation, been encouraged to grow great quantities of fibrous
roots, so essential to successful transplanting.
For planting and care see page 5.
*ASH, American White (Fraxinus Ameri-
cana). A medium grower and valuable for
planting in the streets or in parks; may be ex-
tensively planted for timber.
BIRCH, Cut-Leaved Weeping (Betula pen-
dula laciniata). See Weeping Trees.
BOX ELDER (Acer Negundo). A rapid grow-
ing variety, with light green foliage and spread-
ing head; a free grower; used for shade and
windbreak; very hardy and easily transplanted.
CATALPA, Western (Catalpa Speciosa). Val-
uable for timber, fence posts, etc. Ornamental
and valuable tree where hardy.
CATALPA, Umbrella (Catalpa Bungei). Fo-
liage large and glossy. Top-grafted on tall
stems it forms a perfect umbrella shaped head
and makes an effective tree for formal plant-
ing.
CHERRY, Wild Black (Prunus Serotina). An
upright, round, headed, strong growing tree;
slender, glossy leaves, hardy.
CHESTNUT, American Sweet (Castanea
Americana). Our native species; smaller than
the Spanish, but sweeter; moderately hardy.
*ELM, White (Ulmus Americana). A noble
spreading and drooping tree suitable for shade
and excellent for streets and drives.
ELM, Camperdown Weeping (Ulmus Montana
Camperdown pendula). See Weeping Trees.
*HACK BERRY (Celtis Occidentalis) . Resem-
bles Elm somewhat, foliage more pointed and a
bright glossy green, bark thick and rough; a
symmetrical grower; good street tree, drouth
resistant.
Page Twenty- four
Northwest View of Marshalls Nurseries
HORSE CHESTNUT, European (Aesculus
Hippocastanum). Similar to the American
Buckeye; forms a round, shapely head; very
dense and beautiful; moderately hardy.
LILAC, Japanese Tree (Syringa Japonica).
A fine small tree. Matures to a height of from
20 to 30 feet. Immense spikes of grayish blos-
soms.
LINDEN, American (Tilia Americana). A
rapid growing, large sized tree with a remark-
ably straight trunk; deep green, heart shaped
leaves, and clusters of fragrant yellow flowers.
Is splendid for lawn and street planting.
*MAPLE, Soft (Acer Dasycarpum). Silver
leaved Maple and should not be confused with
Silver Poplar. Rapid grower. A favorite lawn
and street tree.
MAPLE, Norway (Acer Platanoides). This
tree is proving to be one of the best of the
hardwood trees for the West. It closely resem-
bles the Hard or Sugar Maple in appearance. It
is very symmetrical with a round, dense head
and dark green foliage. Makes a beautiful
shade or street tree. It grows somewhat slower
than the Soft Maple, but is sturdy and the limbs
are not so easily broken by the wind.
MAPLE, Hard or Sugar (Acer Saccharium).
A beautiful, stately tree. A desirable shade tree
where it does well.
♦MOUNTAIN ASH, European (Sorbus Aucu-
paria). A round headed tree, 20 to 30 feet
high and occasionally more. It is ornamental
all through the season. Its compound pinnate
foliage is soft and handsome in appearance and
of a fine shade of green. In May and June the
tree is covered with the large flat heads of pure
white flowers, four to six inches across. These
are followed by clusters of bright orange and
red fruits which remain long after the frost has
denuded it.
MULBERRY, Russian (Morus Tartarica) . Val-
uable for hedges and windbreaks around orch-
ards and fruit plantations, as it bears every
year, ripening constantly nearly all summer,
thus feeding the birds. Makes a rapid growth
and is considered very good for posts.
MULBERRY, Tea’s Weeping (Morus Tartar-
ica Pendula). See Weeping Trees.
♦OLIVE, Russian (Elaeagnus Argentea). An
ornamental tree of special value; attains a
height of 30 feet or more; bark and leaves light
green when young; bark becomes darker as the
tree grows older, and the leaves more silvery
white; it blooms profusely in June in small ra-
cemes. An excellent tree for semi-arid districts.
OAK, Pin (Quercus Palustris). One of the
most beautiful street and lawn trees grown;
of rapid growth, and transplants much easier
than the Burr Oak; perfectly hardy.
♦POPLAR, Norway (Populus Certinensis). Is
being planted extensively. Resembles Carolina
Poplar, but attains larger size, and grows more
rapidly. Planted for street, screens and shel-
ters where quick effect is desired.
POPLAR, Canadian (Populus Canadian). This
Poplar is related to the hardy Cottonwood — re-
sembles it somewhat in its habit of growth. It
is extremely hardy. It grows as far north as
Edmonton in northern Alberta. It is more de-
sirable than the Cottonwood because it does not
shed cotton, and is more shapely in its form and
general growth.
POPLAR, Carolina (Populus Monolifera). Of
good form and robust growth, and desirable
where a very large tree is required.
♦POPLAR, Volga (Populus Volga Pyramid-
alis). A n^, hardy poplar from Russia. The
tree is an upright grower similar to the Lom-
bardy Poplar, and better adapted to the West.
Page Twenty- five
A unique and conspicuous tree on account of its
erect columnar form. Approximate limb spread
six to eight feet, height twenty to thirty feet.
An extremely rapid growth; excellent for
screening undesirable views without taking up
much space.
POPLAR, Belle’s Silver (Populus Alba Pyra-
midalis). Leaves are similar to Silver Poplar
and habit of growth similar to Volga Poplar.
"POPLAR, Silver Leaved (Populus Alba).
Leaves are dark on upper side, and pure white
on lower side. Rapid grower. Sometimes in-
correctly called Silver Maple.
SYCAMORE (Platanus Occidentalis). Also
called American Plane or Buttonwood. Well
adapted for streets in cities where gas and
smoke are injurious to foliage; upright, shape-
ly and beautiful.
WALNUT, Black (Juglans Nigra). A moder-
ate grower, perfectly hardy, producing a large
nut.
*WILLOW, Golden (Salix Vitellina Aurea). A
handsome Willow with golden yellow bark
which gives an excellent winter effect. Quick
grower; very hardy; excellent for screening
purposes.
Cut Leaf Weeping Birch
Russian Olive
*WILLOW, Laurel Leaf (Salix Pendantra).
More like a large shrub of compact habit. The
foliage is an excellent dark glossy green.
WEEPING TREES
*BIRCH, Cut Leaf Weeping (Betula Pendula
Laciniata). An elegant erect tree with slender
drooping branches and fine cut leaves. White
bark.
*ELM, Camperdown Weeping (Ulmus Mon-
tana Camperdown Pendula). Its vigorous ir-
regular branches, which have a uniform weep-
ing habit, overlap so regularly that a compact
roof-like head is formed.
MULBERRY, Tea’s Weeping (Morus Tartar-
ica Pendula). A graceful and beautiful hardy
tree, forming a perfect umbrella-shaped head,
with long, slender, willowy branches, drooping
to the ground and gracefully swaying in the
wind; foliage small, lobed and of a delightful,
fresh, glossy green. The tree is exceedingly
hardy, of rapid growth and abundant foliage,
and can be trained into almost any shape.
MOUNTAIN ASH, Weeping (Sorbus Aucu-
paria Pendula). A beautiful tree; straggling,
weeping branches; makes a fine tree for the
lawn; suitable for covering arbors; hardy.
WILLOW, Wisconsin Weeping (Salix Wiscon-
sin). Very graceful drooping willow.
*WILLOW, Nioba Weeping (Salix Niobe).
Resembles the golden Willow in color of bark,
a pretty golden-yellow, making an excellent
summer and winter effect. Branches are slen-
Page Twenty- six
SHELTER BELT PLANTING
There are many places throughout the Northwest where belt planting of
trees is very desirable, to afford protection to the home orchard, farm and
yard. Such plantings will also furnish fire wood — a point in many in-
stances worthy of consideration. With land still plentiful it is doubtful if two
or more acres can be put to better use than providing a shelter for the home and
all the stock and farm buildings, in a climate where winds below the freezing
point are blowing nearly half the year. The trimmings from a good sized grove
will furnish a good supply of the best summer wood, poles, posts, and timber for
various uses that will always be convenient to have at hand.
For dry soils and on the Western prairies plant a good proportion of Ash. It is not only the
hardiest but makes the most useful timber of all our forest trees. The Box Elder is good to mix
with more valuable trees, as it grows fast while young, shades the ground quickly and forces the
slower trees to make clean straight stems. The American Elm is almost equal in hardiness but
not of so much use for timber. In moist soils the Soft Maple is a good tree, especially valuable
for firewood. On the dry Western prairies the Laurel Leafed Willow is the most popular. Its
broad, thick, shiny leaves seem to be specially fitted to endure dry air. The Russian Golden
Willow is also very popular. It branches pro-
fusely, making a denser shelter than any other
tree. But the Norway Poplar is the tree that
leads them all in rapid upward growth and saw
log qualities. Russian Olive is rather slow in
growth but is very hardy and makes an excel-
lent low windbreak.
Two rows of evergreens properly arranged
will shut out the wind better than six rows of
other trees. This is especially true in winter
when the windbreak is needed most. Jack
Pine is the fastest growing evergreen, and
makes a windbreak quickly, while Bull, Scotch
and Austrian Pines all grow quite rapidly. Jack
and Bull Pines will grow and thrive in the
most severe locations, as well as Black Hills
and Colorado Spruce, which are slower in
growth. Scotch and Austrian Pine will thrive
over the greater part of Nebraska and eastern
South Dakota. These will make an average
Pine Windbreak on Nursery growth of 2 ft. a year if given good care.
Pag-e Twenty- seven
der, long and well drooping, growing to the
ground in a short time. Leaves are a whitish-
green. Very vigorous grower and perfectly
hardy even in the Dakotas.
AVENUE TREES
Ash Norway Maple
Elm Sugar Maple
Sycamore Silver Maple (Soft)
Pin Oak Poplar
TREES THAT COLOR IN THE FALL
Ash Oak
Maples Sumac
TREES THAT FLOWER
Catalpa Horse Chestnut
Linden Crab Apple
ODD AND CONSPICUOUS
Weeping Birch Weeping Mulberry
Catalpa Bungei Weeping Willow
Kentucky Coffee
TREES FOR QUICK EFFECT
Ash Poplar
Catalpa Sycamore
Silver Maple (Soft) Willow
Russian Mulberry
FOR LOW OR MOIST SOILS
Ash Poplar
Maple Willow
Birch Elm
Oak Sycamore
Weeping Mulberry
■ St’" ^ «a— -V asr— »> w>
^Trees ^hvuBs and ^Canis
EVERGREENS
The Evergreens are indispensable in some features of ornamental gardening.
They are especially valuable for screens and windbreaks, for a background
against which to group trees with beautifully colored leaves or branches,
and for winter decoration. In fact in the northern states the Pines, Spruces and
other native Evergreens are so well adapted to the climate and soil, that they are
quite as important in all branches of ornamental planting as deciduous trees and
shrubs.
Evergreens are also very valuable for windbreaks. One or two rows about
the building site will cut off the winds almost completely and move your home a
considerable distance south by making it warmer in fact, and by suggestions of
warmth from their green color when everything else about the home appears dull
and cold. For planting and care see page 6.
ABIES— THE FIRS
Trees are generally pyramidal in shape and
hardy almost everywhere. The needles are
short and generally bright on the under side.
They transplant kindly and should be more gen-
eraliy used. They are nearly all native of the
northern country and more handsome in culti-
vation than in their native soil.
A. BALSAM E A. Balsam Fir. A very regular
symmetrical tree. Hardy in eastern Nebraska.
A. CONCOLOR. Silver Fir. A very beauti-
ful species; leaves long and beautifully sil-
vered; equal, in color and beauty to the Color-
ado Blue Spruce. Hardy in eastern Nebraska.
Black Hills Spruce
JUNIPERUS— CEDAR
J. SCOPULORUM. Colorado Silver Cedar.
This variety is midway between our native
Cedar and the Irish Juniper in form, but far
more silvery than either.
J. VIRGINIANA. Red Cedar. Hardy; rug-
ged; native. Will stand more rough and tum-
ble care than any other Evergreen, but we con-
sider it a dangerous tree around an orchard,
or in the neighborhood where there are orch-
ards on account of the fungus, which is called
Cedar Rust, which develops on the cedar trees
and not only kills the cedar itself, but is very
destructive to the foliage of the apple and some
of our best roses and ornamentals; also some
deciduous trees.
J. PROSTRATE. Prostrate Juniper. A na-
tive of the Black Hills; new and novel. Creep-
ing evergreen that attains no height whatever
in body, but creeps vine-like. Is very desirable
for covering walls or terraced mounds on the
lawns or landscape; also fine for edging or
grave cover in cemeteries; stands trimming
well and is very hardy.
J. SABINA. Savin’s Juniper. One of the
best. Spreading fan shape habit, of pleasing
color of dark green. Stands the city dust, soot,
etc., exceptionally well. Hardy,
PICEA— SPRUCE
These are all easy to transplant, and the most
popular of the evergreen family. They are per-
fectly hardy and grow rapidly and are pyra-
midal in shape, used for specimens, in groups
or for foundation adornment, and as screens,
windbreaks or hedges they are equally appro-
priate. Needles are uniformly short. We have
a fine stock of specimen plants that will please
every purchaser.
P. EXCELS A. Norway Spruce. A lofty ele-
gant tree, of perfect pyramidal habit; remark-
ably elegant and rich; and as it gets age, has
fine, graceful, pendulous branches. It is ex-
ceedingly picturesque and beautiful. Fine for
windbreak. Fast grower. Hardy in eastern
Nebraska.
P. ALBA. White Spruce. A tall tree, with
compact branches and light green foliage;
hardy;
*P. CANADENSIS. Black Hills Spruce. Com-
pact, shapely and of deep green color. As the
name would imply, it is a native of the Black
Hills, hence naturally adapted to dry weather
Page Twenty- eight
^^yf(czrshalls JSfuvseries /[rlingion, jVe6v.
and high altitudes. It is one of the very best
for Nebraska and South Dakota. Transplants
easily and stands severe climatic conditions.
We take pleasure in recommending this ever-
green.
*P. PUNGENS. Colorado Blue Spruce. This
species has been tested at various points on
the prairies of the West and Northwest with
perfect success. This is not only one of the
hardiest, but the most beautiful in color and
outline; foliage of a rich blue or sage color. It
is a valuable acquisition.
PINUS— PINES
Pines seem to grow anywhere, high or low
ground, exposed or shaded positions, in rich or
poor soils, they are at home. After established
they grow rapidly and when given space quick-
ly raise their heads and spread their great
branches, soon making a wonderful tree. The
needles are invariably long and with age droop
gracefully. Plant any kind and be assured of
getting quick results.
*P. AUSTRIACA. Austrian or Black Pine.
A native of the mountains of Syria; a rapid
growing species, with long, stiff dark green
leaves; very hardy; does well on the high
prairies.
*P. BANKSIANA. Jack Pine. The most
northern and easiest transplanted of all Amer-
ican pines; withstands drouth and hardships
better than any other; of rather irregular
growth; foliage bright green, needles short and
stiff. Valuable for groves and windbreaks. A
row of these on outside of protected area with
a row of Black Hill Spruce ten feet inside,
make a fine combination. The Jack Pines get
up quickly for effect, and the symmetrical
spruce give the ornamental effect desired.
*P. PON DEROSA. Bull Pine. A native of
the West. The best tree for the semi-arid re-
gion. Thrives in most any soil. Resembles
the Austrian Pine. Extensively planted in
West for windbreak.
P. SYLVESTRIS. Scotch Pine. A native of
the British Islands; very rapid in growth; a
dark, tall evergreen, with a bluish foliage and
rugged shoots; hardy, and grows well even in
the poorest soils.
Winter Evergreen Scene at Home of G. A.
Marchall on the Nursery
Pine
P. STROBUS. White Pine. The most orna-
mental of all our native pines; foliage light,
delicate or silvery green; flourishes in the
poorest soils. Not hardy on prairies.
P. MUGHO. Dwarf Mountain Pine. This is
the most beautiful of all dwarf pines. It forms
a low top with ascending branches, and the
breadth of the tree is frequently double its
height. Foliage bright green. A valuable tree
for ornamental planting.
THUYA— ARBOR- VITAE
This group contains a variety of forms of
lower-growing evergreens. Pyramidal or globe
shapes may be had and are popular for founda-
tions, groups, hedges, cemeteries, vases and
window boxes. Should be sheared occasionally
so as to develop new growth to cover the in-
side branches that become bare in a few years
if left untrimmed. Hardy only in extreme east-
ern Nebraska and East and Northeast. Will
not stand hot, dry conditions.
T. GLOBOSA. Globe Arbor-Vitae. A perfect
globe when well grown, the spread usually
equalling the height. Foliage of light green.
T. OCCIDENTALIS. American Arbor-Vitae.
One of the most popular. These grow very
kindly, will stand shearing like a hedge, being
conical in habit and growth.
T. ORIENTALIS. Oriental Arbor-Vitae. A
striking color, pyramidal in shape and differ-
ent from any of the others of this group. More
hardy than the American varieties in the West.
Page Twenty-nine
Home of C. G. Marshall, April, 1920
ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS
People, generally, are appreciating more the permanent value and beauty
of shrubs. The charm and grace they lend to home grounds is invaluable,
and, if judicious selection is made, it is possible to have a continuous succes-
sion of bloom from early in April to the days when the frost again nips the flow-
ers of the very latest to bloom.
In many cases it would be better to plant shrubs in groups of several to
one side of the lawn instead of following the method of planting one in a certain
place and spoiling the effect of the open lawn. In most cases, three, six, eight,
or twelve of one variety should be used in a particular grouping. Several such
groupings make an excellent border or foundation planting.
For planting, pruning and care see
AMYGDALUS NANA. Double Flowering Al-
mond. Pink double flower. Also have variety
white flower. One of grandmother’s shrubs.
Blooms early in the spring. Used for cutting.
Height 3 to 5 feet.
*BERBERRIS THUNBERGII. Japanese Bar-
berry. A pretty dwarf species that will fit into
almost any planting and will grow in most any
place. Handsome foliage of bright green oval
shaped leaves which turn to the most brilliant
shades of coppery red and orange in autumn
and which remain on until late fall. The slen-
der, graceful little branches are lined with
small scarlet berries which hang until well into
winter and help give life to the shrubbery bor-
der, especially when there is snow on the
ground. Used for foundation and group plant-
ings and hedges. (Does not harbor wheat
rust.) Height 2 to 3 feet.
BUDDLEIA. Butterfly Bush. So named be-
cause blooms attract large numbers of butter-
flies. This fact makes the shrub very interest-
ing, especially to children. Matures first year
and dies down like a peony. Bloonas profusely,
lilac colored tapering panicles, 6 to 10 inches
long. Height 3 to 4 feet.
page 6.
-CARAGANA ARBORESCENS. Siberian Pea
Tree. A shrub or low tree. Yellow pea-like
flowers in May. Very hardy even in Dakotas.
Height 8 to 10 feet.
*CORNUS SI BE RICA. Red-Twigged. Dog-
wood. Good for border groupings, where the
smooth, slender, bright red branches in winter
make a very pleasing contrast with evergreens
and snow. Small white blossoms early in sum-
mer. Good foliage. Thrives in shade. Height
6 to 8 feet.
-CORNUS STOLONIFERA. Red Osier Dog-
wood. Similar to Cornus Siberica although
twigs do not color so well, but foliage has bet-
ter autumn color. Height 6 to 8 feet.
CORNUS FLAVIRAMEA. Yellow-Twigged
Dogwood. Variety of Cornus Stolonifera, simi-
lar excepting twigs are a bright yellow in win-
ter. Height 4 to 6 feet.
DEUTZIA GRACILIS. Dwarf Deutzia. Dense
little bush, rarely over two feet high; blooms
in May, pure white flowers. Height 1 to 2 feet.
DEUTZIA, Pride of Rochester. Pink Deutzia.
Produces large double white flowers tinged
with rose. Blooms in May. Semi-hardy.
Height 4 to 6 feet.
Pagre Thirty
Home of C. G. Marshall, May, 1922
CYDONIA JAPONICA. Japanese Quince.
Hardy and very interesting shrub. Has a
beautiful scarlet and sweet-scented flower very
early in spring.
DIERVILLA ROSEA. Pink Weigela. Flowers
in June, pink, trumpet-shaped, and measure
probably % inch across. Height 8 to 5 feet.
DIERVILLA EVA RATKE. Red Weigela.
Same as Rosea excepting of more upright
growth and bloom brilliant crimson. Height 3
to 5 feet.
*FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA. Golden Bell.
With drooping or weeping branches. Yellow
flowers in May before leaves appear. Good fo-
liage. Height 6 to 8 feet.
*FORSYTHIA INTERMEDIA. Upright For-
sythia. Similar to Forsythia Suspansa except
growth is upright. Height 6 to 8 feet.
^HYDRANGEA, Paniculata Grandiflora.
Large Flowering Hydrangea. An excellent
flowering shrub. Small white flowers borne in
large pyramidal shaped clusters during July
and August, when few other shrubs are in
bloom, later turning to rich shades of pink and
coppery red. Good for cutting. Height 3 to 5
feet.
HYDRANGEA, Arborescens Grandiflora Alba.
Hills of Snow. Sometimes called Snowball
Hydrangea. Starts blooming in June and con-
tinues until frost. Flowers rather round clus-
ters instead of pyramidal. Excellent foliage.
Grows best on north and east sides of buildings
where protected against afternoon sun. Height
2 to 4 feet.
*JUNIPERUS PROSTRATA. Prostrate Jun-
iper. An evergreen, shrubby and vine-like.
Very desirable for covering walls or terraced
mounds. Fine for graves. Hardy.
*LIGUSTRUM AMURENSE— Amoor River
Privet. This is the Russian variety. Hardiest
Privet. Excellent green foliage, upright habit
of growth; suitable for lawn hedges. Easily
trimmed. Height 3 to 5 feet.
LIGUSTRUM REGELIANUM. Fern-leaf
Privet. Handsome shining foliage and hori-\
zontally spreading branches. Used for founda-
tion and lawn borders. Height 3 to 5 feet.
*LONICERA BELLA ALBIDA. Bella Honey-
suckle Bush. Very good foliage. Quick grow-
er. Plant in groups. Excellent for screening.
By planting in double or triple rows, shrubs 5
feet apart and alternated, makes good group
for screening. Height 6 to 8 feet.
*LONICERA TARTARICA. Bush Honey-
suckle. Similar to Lonicera Bella Albida, only
Hydrangea P. G.
Page Thirty-one
Home of Vernon Marshall, April, 1920
does not grow so fast, but this variety has
blooms in June that are very pretty. Three
colors, red, white and pink. Height 5 to 8 feet.
♦LONICERA MORROWI. Morrow’s Bush
Honeysuckle. Spreading. Small pure white
flowers in June, followed by very showy fruits.
Excellent foliage and used considerable in land-
scape groupings. Height 4 to 6 feet.
*PHILADELPHUS GRANDIFLORA. Large
Flowering Mock Orange. Incorrectly called
“Syringa.” Very hardy. Large handsome fo-
liage, beautiful large white flowers in June;
used for cutting. Height 8 to 12 feet.
*PHILADELPHUS CORONARIUS. Fragrant
Mock Orange. Similar to Philadelphus Grandi-
flora, flowers not so large, but fragrant. Height
6 to 10 feet.
Philadelphus
*PHILADELPHUS MONT BLANC. Foliage
same light green as the other Philadelphus but
not so large. Also flowers are smaller. Com-
pact grower and used for variety where a me-
dium sized shrub is needed. Height 4 to 6
feet.
-PRUNUS, HANSEN’S. Hansen’s Purple
Leaf Plum. Grows in bush form 8 to 12 feet
high. Used for color contrast. Hardy.
-PRUNUS TRILOBA. Double Flowering
Plum. A charming shrub or small tree. Blooms
profusely, light pink double flowers early in
spring before leaves appear. Height 4 to 6
feet.
*RHAMNUS. Buckthorn. Robust hardy
shrub. Pretty dark green foliage. Used some
for ornamental hedges. When not trimmed
grows 8 to 12 feet high.
RHUS GLABRA. Common Sumac. Used
where natural groupings are desired. Height
5 to 8 feet.
-RHUS GLABRA LACINIATA. Lace-leaf
Sumac. Deeply cut, lace-like green foliage
which turns to a rich crimson in autumn.
Showy spikes of crimson fruits. Plant in
groups to side of lawn. 4 to 8 feet.
-RHUS TYPHINA. Staghorn Sumac. Fo-
liage similar to common Sumac except larger.
The new growth of the smaller branches is
clothed with a peculiar down, giving an appear-
ance similar to the growing horn of a deer.
Used for groupings. Height 8 to 12 feet.
*RHUS THYPHINA LACINIATA. Fern-leaf
Staghorn Sumac. Lace-leaf variety of Rhus
Typhina.
RHUS COTIN US. Smoke Tree. Called Pur-
ple Fringe by many people. Much admired for
its curious fringe or hair-like flowers that cover
the surface of the whole plant in midsummer.
Height 8 to 12 feet.
Page Thirty- two
'Marshalls JS/hvsQries Arlingion, Ae6v. {
Home of Vernon Marshall, May, 1922
*SAMBUCUS CANADENSIS. Common El-
derberry. Good for parks, roadsides, etc.,
where a natural effect is desired. Berries use-
ful for pies. Rapid grower. Blooms broad,
white, in June, followed by reddish-purple ber-
ries. Height 6 to 10 feet.
*SAMBUCUS LACINIATA. C u t - Leaved
Elder. Similar to Sambucus Canadensis ex-
cept foliage is cut-leaved. Used in groupings
for contrast of foliage. Height 6 to 10 feet.
^SAMBUCUS, NIGRA, AUREA. Golden
Elder. Similar to Sambucus Canadensis except
foliage is a striking golden yellow. Very good
for color contrast. Height 6 to 10 feet.
*SPIREA VAN HOUTTI. St. Peter’s Wreath.
Commonly called Bridal Wreath, but is an im-
provement of this variety. Used for founda-
tion and border groupings and for hedges.
Flowers pure white in May and early June.
Every ground should have several. Height 3
to 6 feet.
*SPIREA ANTHONY WATERER. Dwarf
Pink Spirea. Produces flowers of a bright
crimson and blooms so freely that it may be
kept in flower throughout the summer until
late fall by trimming away the dead blooms.
Flower clusters are about 3 to 6 inches wide.
The foliage is handsome, being variegated with
creamy white or yellow, and sometimes tinted
with pink. Used for low hedges along walks
and drives. For lawn or foundation groupings.
Height to 2 feet.
-SPIREA FROEBELI. Froebel’s Spirea.
Similar to Spirea A. W. Grows a trifle higher.
Very good. Height 2 to 4 feet.
-SPIREA CALLOSA ALBA. Dwarf White
Spirea. Similar to Spirea A. W. only blooms
white. Foliage not variegated. Height 1 to 2
feet.
*SPIREA THUNBERGI. Snow Garland.
Flowers white and small and one of the first
to bloom. April and May. Leaves very small
which makes it useful for contrast. Used in
foundations and border groupings. Height 2
to 4 feet.
SPIREA ARGUTA. Early Blooming Spirea.
Similar to Spirea Thunbergi; foliage not as
fine. Blooms earlier.
-SPIREA OPULIFOLIA AUREA. Golden
Leaf Spirea. Also called Golden Ninebark. A
large, vigorous growing shrub that bears an
abundance of fragrant white flowers in flat
clusters in June. Followed by interesting seed
pods. Foliage golden tinted. Height 4 to 8
feet.
SPIREA BILLARDI. Billard’s Spirea.
Sparsely twigged, erect branches, crowned with
fluffy pale pink spike flowers. Blooms nearly
all summer. Used in groupings. Height 3 to
5 feet.
*SYMPHORICARPUS VULGARIS. Coralber-
ry. Small, low growing shrub of very pretty
habit; slightly drooping, flowers very small,
fruit purplish-red and hangs on all winter. Fo-
liage excellent green throughout the season.
Thrives both in sun and shade, and one of the
best low shrubs to plant close to trees. Height
IVz to 2 feet.
-SYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS. Snow-
berry. Same habit of growth as Symph. Vul-
garis. Fruit pure white and profuse, the size
of marbles.
*ROSA RUBRIFOLIA. Reddish-purple leaves
used for color effect with shrub groupings. Sin-
gle roses followed by attractive red fruit. Very
hardy. Height 3 to 5 feet.
-SYRINGA VULGARIS. Common Purple Li-
lac. Well known Lilac. Height 6 to 8 feet.
-SYRINGA VULGARIS ALBA. White Lilac.
Common White Lilac.
-SYRINGA PERSIC A. Persian Lilac. Most
popular lilac, bloom similar to common purple.
Foliage smaller and not so dense, but shrub
is almost sure to bloom next year after planted.
Does not sprout like the common lilac. Height
5 to 8 feet.
^SYRINGA JAPONICA. Japanese Tree Lilac.
This is a small tree which grows 20 to 30 feet
high. Immense spikes of grayish blossoms.
Good grower. Hardy.
Pag-e Thirty-three
^Tvees ^BivuBs cmd ^Cccrds
Home of G. A. Marshall, April, 1920
*SYRINGA JOSIKAEA. Hungarian Lilac. A
distinct type with dark green leaves. The deep
purple buds, arranged in loose panicles, open
into light violet-colored flowers. Height 6 to
10 feet.
*SYRINGA VILLOSA, Late blooming lilac.
Flowers large, light purple in bud, white when
open, fragrant. Does not grow high. Height
5 to 8 feet.
NAMED FRENCH VARIETIES OF LILACS
Alphonse La Vallee — Double, blue shaded vio-
let.
Chas. X. Single, reddish purple, large.
Frau Bertha Damman. Single, pure white.
Ludwig Spaeth. Single, dark purple, fine.
Madam Abel Chatenay. Double white.
Madam Lemoyne. Double, pure white.
Michael Buckner. Double, pale lilac.
Rubra De Marley. Single, reddish purple,
fine.
-TAMARIX HISPIDA AESTIVALIS. Tam-
arix. Tall shrub of upright growth with small
leaves somewhat resembling Asparagus. Flow-
ers are of a delicate pink or red fringe. Very
useful for a tall screen of shrubbery. Height
8 to 15 feet. Can be kept any heighth.
^VIBURNUM OPULUS STERILS. Snow-
ball. The old fashioned Snowball that grows
most anywhere and flowers so abundantly in
the latter part of May. Excellent foliage.
Height 6 to 10 feet.
^VIBURNUM LANTANA. Wayfaring Tree
Valuable for lawn borders. Soft, heavy, leath-
ery leaves, which hang until late in fall. White
flowers in May, succeeded by red berries.
Height 6 to 12 feet.
^VIBURNUM OPULUS. High Bush Cran-
berry. Foliage and flower similar to common
Snowball. Used for its pretty leathery, rich
green leaves and bright red berries which hang
until long after frost. Height 6 to 10 feet,
♦YUCCA FILAMENTOSA. Adam’s Needle.
Planted for its evergreen foliage and its
straight upright effect, which is quite a con-
trast with other shrubbery. Grows Xy^. to 2
feet high with a long flower stalk appearing in
spring, which grows 2 to 3 feet high and is cov-
ever with large, whitish bell-shaped flowers in
July.
ROSA RUGOSA. Japanese Rose. Bright,
luxuriant, glossy foliage. Beautiful large single
light red or white flowers, succeeded by large
berries of a rich, rosy red color, and a great
addition to the ornamental character of the
plant. Used in foundation and lawn groupings
and for hedges. Hardy and used so much in
groupings that we have placed it in the shrub
list. Height 3 to 5 feet.
SHRUBS FOR SHADY LOCATIONS
Barberry Thunbergii Ligustrum
Cornus Lonicera
Deutzia Rhus
Forsythia Symphoricarpus
Hydrangea A. G. A.
SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS FOR GRAVES
Yucca
Juniper Prostrata
Spirea V. H.
Spirea Froebelii
Rosa Rugosa
Dielytra
Gaillardia
Iris
Lilium Tigrinum
Paeonia
Phlox
FOUNDATIONS
Ligustrum Regal
Symphoricarpus
Rosa Rugosa
SHRUBS FOR LOW
Berberris Thunbergii
Diervilla
Hydrangea
Spirea
SHRUBS FOR HIGH FOUNDATIONS
All of above list
Cornus
Forsythia
Lonicera
Philadelphus
Virburnum
Tall growing Spireas
SHRUBS AND TREES FOR SCREENING
PURPOSES
Populus Volga
Salix Vitellina Aurea
Salix Pentandra
Lonicera Bella Albida
Evergreens
Syringa
Philadelphus
Rhus
Tamarix
See description of Shrubs, Read about our
Landscape Service on page 45.
Page Thirty- four
J^rseries /[rlinqion, jye6v.^^\
Home of G. A. Marshall, May, 1922
ORNAMENTAL HEDGES
An ornamental hedge speaks for itself. It frames the lawn and gives it a
background. On the smaller grounds the low hedges are used, while for
larger grounds and for screening purposes, the larger growing kinds are
used. In most cases they should be planted one foot apart.
For planting, pruning and care see page 6.
*JAPANESE BARBERRY HEDGE. Berber-
his Thunbergii. Used extensively where a good,
dwarf, bushy hedge is desired. The foliage is
an excellent green which turns to a beautiful
coppery red in the fall, followed by pretty red
berries. It is not susceptible to wheat rust.
Can be grown either trimmed or untrimmed,
with a height of from to 3 feet.
♦PRIVET HEDGE. Ligustrum Amurense.
We suggest this Amoor River variety which is
hardy. Upright grower, foliage glossy green,
and holds its color well until late. Generally
kept sheared which is easily accomplished. Can
be kept anywhere from 2 to 4 feet high.
♦ROSA RUGOSA. Japanese Rose. Bright,
luxuriant, glossy foliage. Beautiful large, sin-
gle light red or white flowers, succeeded by
large berries of a rich, rosy red color which is
a great addition to the ornamental character of
the plant. Makes a good untrimmed hedge of
from 3 to 5 feet high. Hardy.
♦SPIREA V. H. St. Peter’s Wreath. Com-
monly called Bridal Wreath, but is an improve-
ment of this variety. Flowers pure white in
May and early June. Good foliage, and very
hardy. Height 3 to 6 feet. Generally used as
an untrimmed hedge, but can be kept back to
desired height.
♦HONEYSUCKLE HEDGE. Lonicera Bella
Albida. Good for a tall untrimmed hedge for
screening purposes. Very pretty foliage and a
quick grower. Height 10 to 15 feet.
♦BUCKTHORN. Rhamnus. A hardy hedge,
generally trimmed 3 to 5 feet high. Coarser
than Privet.
MULBERRY. Morus Tartarica. Generally
trimmed 4 to 5 feet high. Very coarse for lawn
and shows stalks with age.
♦SPIREA A. W. Dwarf Pink Spirea. Pro-
duces flowers of a bright crimson and blooms
so freely that it may be kept in flower through-
out the summer until late fall by trimming
away the dead blooms. Flower clusters about
3 to 6 inches wide. The foliage is handsome,
being variegated with creamy white or yellow
Privet Hedge
Page Thirty- five
Spirea Van Houttei, 2 years old, at the Nursery
and sometimes tinted with pink. Height iy2
to 2 feet. Used for low hedges along walks and
drives, and seldom as a border.
BABY-RAMBLER. Rose. A low growing rose
which has bloom borne in clusters like the
climbing rose, Crimson Rambler. Grows 1 to 2
feet high. Blooms all summer. There are
three colors to choose from, red, white and
pink. When planted as a hedge, is generally
placed along walks or drives instead of a bor-
der.
GRUSS AN TEPLITZ. Rose. One of the best
and most valuable hardy crimson everblooming
roses. Flowers large, full and sweet. Foliage
sparse but pretty. Height 1 to 2 feet. Recom-
mend along drives, walks, paths, etc.
Any good blooming hybrid roses are
suitable for hedges between the lawn and
garden.
Clematis Paniculata
Page Thirty- six
VINES
^VIRGINIA CREEPER. Ampelopsis Quinqui-
folia. Five leaf. Foliage brilliant red and scar-
let tints in autumn. Blue berries. Excellent to
shade porch and arbors.
*ENGELMANN’S IVY. Ampelopsis Quinqui-
folia Engelmanni. Similar to Virginia Creeper,
except this one clings to brick, stone or stucco
and is hardiest vine for this purpose.
BOSTON IVY. Ampelopsis Veitchii. Three
leaf. Colors in fall. Blue berries. Semi-hardy.
CLEMATIS PANICULATA. Virgin’s Bower.
Good climber having long stems and white fra-
grant flowers, almost completely covering the
vine during the late summer and early fall.
Rapid grower. Should be cut back each spring.
Good for shade and arbors.
^CLEMATIS JACKMANNI. Profuse bloom-
ing variety, with flowers 4 to 6 inches in diam-
eter, of an intense purple color. Not as easy to
transplant as the Clematis Paniculata.
CLEMATIS VILLE DE LYON. Similar to
Jackmanni, except flowers red.
CLEMATIS HENRYI. Similar to Clematis
Jackmanni, except flowers white.
-HALL'S JAPAN HONEYSUCKLE. Lonicera
Halliana. A hardy, strong climber, nearly ever-
green. Flowers pure white, changing to yellow.
Blooms July until late fall. Excellent vine for
porch, arbor, or ground cover.
-SCARLET TRUMPET HONEYSUCKLE.
Lonicera Sempervirens. Scarlet flowers two
inches long. Blooms profusely and is very
showy. Good for porches.
-TRUMPET VINE. Bignonia Radicans. A
hardy climber, large trumpet shaped flowers,
2 to 3 inches long, brilliant scarlet, in August.
Good for walls or trees.
-CHINESE WISTARIA. Wistaria Chinensis.
Rapid grower. Flowers pale blue, borne in long
pendulous clusters in May and June. Good for
pergolas.
BITTERSWEET. Celestrus Scandens. Fine
large leaves, yellow flowers and clusters of
orange fruit which is very attractive in the fall.
^^'VITIS, BETA GRAPE. Very hardy. Good
grower. Fruit of medium size. Good for per-
golas.
ROSES
Roses are the most beautiful of flowers and are among the easiest to raise.
We have given great care to the culture of the plants we offer and the fol-
lowing list will be found worthy and well suited to our climate.
Our roses are strong, dormant plants grown outdoors, well rooted and in
every way first class. They have in most cases already bloomed before being
set out and we believe will give satisfaction and permanent success.
They thrive best in a good, well-drained clay soil where they can have plenty
of sunlight. Make the ground rich with well-rotted manure, and in spring se-
verely prune all varieties except climbers.
As all hybrid roses bloom on new wood only, they should be cut off from
eight to ten inches above the ground each spring, thus they will send up good,
strong shoots each spring which will produce much larger bloom than will the
weak, slow growth of the old wood if left untrimmed. Clipping off the seed pods
will also aid in the blooming. They should be protected in winter by throwing a
mound of earth around them ten or twelve inches high during the fall, removing
same in spring.
For planting, pruning and care see
page 6.
CLIMBING ROSES
CRIMSON RAMBLER. The famous crimson-
clustered climber.
*EXCELSA. Flowers double, intense crimson
maroon. Our best climber. Very hardy and
resistant to disease and insects.
* DOROTHY PERKINS. Clear, shell-pink,
borne in clusters. Very hardy.
TAUSENDSCHON. Thousand Beauties. Soft
pink, later deepening.
PRAIRIE QUEEN. Bright rosy red.
SEVEN SISTERS. White to crimson.
BALTIMORE BELLE. Very double, pale
blush, shading to rose color.
♦WHITE RAMBLER. Snowy white rose,
borne in clusters.
Gruss An Teplitz
Page Thirty-seven
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HARDY HYBRID ROSES
BABY RAMBLER ROSES or Dwarf Polyan-
tha. This is a novel, distinct and charming
class of roses. The plant is dwarf, height 1 to 2
feet and blooms clusters of dainty small flow-
ers continuously throughout the summer.
BABY RAMBLER, Red. The Dwarf Crimson
Rambler.
BABY RAMBLER, White. The dwarf white.
BABY RAMBLER, Pink. The dwarf rose-
colored.
BLACK PRINCE. Very dark crimson.
COQUETTE DES ALPS. White, lightly
shaded with carmine.
EUGENE FURST. Dark crimson.
FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI. Snow Queen. Our
best white.
FISHER HOLMES. Brilliant carmine-crim-
son.
^GENERAL JACQUEMINOT. Brilliant crim-
son. Very good.
*GRUSS AN TEPLITZ. One of the best and
most valuable, hardy crimson, everblooming
roses. Red. The best bloomer in the West.
JOHN HOPPER. Bright rose, with carmine
center.
J. B. CLARK. Deep scarlet, overlaid with
crimson.
*KAISERINE AUGUSTA VICTORIA. Pearly
white, lightly tinted with lemon in the center.
KILLARNEY. Color flesh, shaded white.
Very good.
MADAM CHAS. WOOD. Deep rosy crimson,
sometimes brilliant scarlet, with maroon shad-
ing.
General Jacqueminot
Snow Queen
MAGNA CHARTA. Bright pink, suffused
with carmine.
MRS. JOHN LAING. Soft, delicate pink.
*PAUL NEYRON. A beautiful deep rose
color; the largest rose.
PRINCE CAMILLE DE ROHAN. Dark vel-
vety crimson changing to maroon.
*SOLIEL D’OR. Sun of Gold. Orange Yel-
low. Fine rose.
MOSS ROSES
COUNTESS OF MURINAIS. Fine white.
GLORY OF MOSSES. Pale rose, very heav-
ily mossed.
LUXEMBOURG. Large, purplish crimson.
Very good.
YELLOW JUNE ROSES
^HARRISON YELLOW. Semi-double, bright
yellow.
^PERSIAN YELLOW. Deep golden .yellow,
semi-double.
BUSH ROSES
This type of roses is desirable for groupings
in connection with shrubbery plantings. Good
for banks and borders. They do not need pro-
tection and are of the single type.
BLANDA. Meadow Rose. Pink flowers, red
fruit.
MULTI FLORA. Old fashion rose. The best
for landscape banking.
RUBRI FOLIA. Reddish purple leaves.
SETIGERA. The typical prairie rose.
RUGOSA ROSES
This type of rose grows 3 to 5 feet high, cov-
ered with very pretty large dark green, crin-
kled, glossy foliage; flowers are single, colors
light red or white, succeeded by large berries
Page Thirty -eight
^^yf(fi^shaUs J\^rseries AvUngion,
of rich, rosy red color, which is a great addition
to the ornamental character of the plant. Very
good for lawn and foundation groupings and for
hedges.
ROSA RUGOSA. Above description.
RUGOSA, ALBA. Above description.
*CONRAD FERD MEYER. Early flowering
hybrid, combining Rugosa foliage with Hybrid
Perpetual blossom. Flowers silvery pink.
Hardy.
-AMELIA GAVERAU. Good foliage. Flow-
ers red.
*SIR THOMAS LIPTON. Fair foliage, good
double white rose, early and constant bloomer.
-HANSA. True Rugosa foliage. Deep violet-
red, double, very hardy.
HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS
These can be used to best advantage in groups and beds on the lawn, as
borders for drives, walks, or in front of shrubbery and in the garden. Some
of the tall-growing sorts may be planted in among the shrubbery with
good effect. Soil should be kept well fertilized. A light covering of coarse,
strawy manure or something that will not pack is beneficial in winter.
For planting and care see page 6.
ACHILLEA PTARMICA. “The Pearl,” Mil-
foil. Bears great masses of small pure white
flowers on long stems, all summer. Fine for
cutting. Height 12 to 18 inches.
*ACQUILEGIA. Columbine. Blooms in
spring. Grows in sun or partial shade. Height
18 to 24 inches.
ACQUILEGIA CANADENSIS. An old favor-
ite. Flowers light red and yellow.
ACQUILEGIA CHRYSANTHA. Golden-
spurred Columbine. Color golden yellow.
ACQUILEGIA COERULEA. Rocky Mountain
Columbine. Color pure blue.
ACQUILEGIA CALIFORNIA HYBRIDA. Cal-
ifornia Hybrids. Long-spurred flowers in a va-
riety of coloring such as yellow, pink, flesh, red,
etc.
BUDDLEIA. Butterfly Bush. So named be-
cause blooms attract large numbers of butter-
flies. This fact makes the plant very interest-
ing, especially to children. Matures first year
and dies down like a peony. Blooms profusely,
lilac colored tapering panicles, 6 to 10 inches
long. Height 3 to 4 feet.
Achillea
Page Thirty-nine
CAMPANULA CARPATHICA. Harebell.
Blooms June to September. Flowers deep blue.
Height 9 inches.
^COREOPSIS GRANDIFLORA. T i c k s e e d.
Flowers rich golden yellow. Blooms continu-
ously. Good for cutting. Height 2 to 3 feet.
CHRYSANTHEMUM HYBRIDUM. Shasta
Daisy. Flowers large, color white with golden
center.
CHRYSANTHEMUM. Hardy Pompon. This
class of beautiful plants is now universally pop-
ular for outdoor bedding, and justly so. They
produce a lavish profusion of blooms, giving
color, life and beauty to the garden at a time
when other plants have been nipped by frost.
They are quite hardy, but it is well to give a
slight covering of leaves or manure during win-
ter. Grow from 2 to 3 feet high.
^DELPHINIUM BELLA DONNA. Larkspur.
The clear turquois blue of its flowers is not
equalled. Flowers in showy spikes. Hardy. No
herbaceous border is complete without it.
Height 3 to 5 feet.
DIANTHUS BARBATUS. Sweet William.
The old time favorite. Blooms May and June.
Mixed colors. Height 1% to 2 feet.
DIANTHUS, DELTOIDES ROSENS. Hardy
Pink. Old time favorites. Bloom June-July.
Fragrant. Height 9 inches.
DIANTHUS PLUMARIUS. Scotch Pinks.
Colors mixed. Otherwise same as above.
Dl ELYTRA SPECTABILIS. Bleeding Heart.
Flowers pink, heart-shaped. May. An old fa-
vorite. Height 11/^ to 2 feet.
Coreopsis
DIGITALIS PURPUREA. Foxglove. Colors,
mixed. Long, bell-shaped flowers. Height 3 to
4 feet. July.
*GAILLARDIA GRANDIFLORA. Blanket
Flower. Very hardy. Daisy-like flowers 2
inches across on single stems. Excellent for
cutting. Colors gold and crimson. Blooms all
summer. June-September. Height 1 foot.
GYPSOPHILA PANICULATA. Baby’s Breath.
Forms a beautiful mass 2-3 feet high and wide.
Cloud-like sprays of tiny white flowers during
August and September, presenting a lovely
gauze-like appearance. Used in bouquets to
combine with highly colored flowers.
"'HIBISCUS. Mallow Marvel. Habit of
growth similar to Hollyhocks. Very large flow-
ers makes showy bloom. Bloom July-Septem-
ber. Colors red or mixed. Very attractive. 3
to 5 feet.
-HOLLYHOCKS, Double. Althea. For tall
backgrounds. This is double perennial type.
Colors mixed. Height 4 to 6 feet.
LATHYRUS LATIFOLIUM. Perennial Pea.
A vining Pea of easy cultivation. Not neces-
sary to replant as it is a hardy perennial.
*LILIUM TIGRINUM. Tiger Lily. Flowers
bright, deep orange red with numerous small
purplish black spots, in many flowered racemes.
Very hardy. One of Grandmother’s flowers.
Height 2 to 4 feet.
Page Forty
Delphinium
LILIUM AURATUM. Gold-banded Lily. Large
flowers, pure white, spotted crimson with a
wide band of gold running throughout the cen-
ter of each petal. Height 2 to 3 feet.
LILIUM UMBELLATUM. Tall growing, up-
right, beautiful bell-shaped flowers of coppery
orange to red, sometimes slightly spotted.
Height 11/^ to 3 feet.
LILY OF THE VALLEY. Concallaria Majalis.
Heavy dark green foliage. Prefers a cool,
shaded corner. Blooms May. Sprays of droop-
ing, pure white, wax-like, fragrant bell-shaped
flowers. Height 6 inches.
*PLAINTAIN LILY. Funkia. Large, attrac-
tive, glossy foliage. Height 1 foot.
*LEMON DAY LILY. Hemerocallis Flava.
Grass-like foliage. Hardy. Adapted to shady
places. Very fragrant. Blooms June. Color
of flowers, yellow. Height 2 feet.
TAWNY DAY LILY. Hemerocallis Fulva.
Habit of growth similar to Hemerocallis Flava.
Blooms July. Color of flower, deep tawny yel-
low.
PLATYCODON GRANDIFLORUM. Japanese
Bellflower. Deep blue, cupped, star-shaped
flowers. Neat foliage. July-September. Valu-
able. Height 1 to 2 feet.
*RUDBECKIA LACINIATA. Golden Glow.
Flowers double, rich, golden yellow; 2 to 3
inches in diameter. Plants have solid heads of
bloom during July to September. Height 6 to 7
feet.
*RUDBECKIA PURPUREA. Purple Cone
Flower. June to September. Very large red-
Yucca
Sweet William
dish purple flowers on good stems, with a re-
markably large cone-shaped center of brown
thickly set with golden tips in spiral lines.
Height 3 to 4 feet.
*YUCCA FILAMENTOSA. Adam’s Needle.
Planted for its evergreen foliage and straight
upright effect which is quite a contrast with
other shrubbery. Grows 114 to 2 feet high with
a long flower stalk appearing in spring which
grows 2 to 3 feet high and is covered with large
whitish, bell-shaped flowers in July.
GERMAN IRIS
No garden is complete without a collection of
these flowers. They rival the orchid for exqui-
site bloom. You can have blossoms from May
to July by selecting early and late sorts. Also
a variety of color of bloom.
PERFECTION. Light and dark blue, velvety
violet-black with orange beard. 2 to 3 feet.
QUEEN OF MAY. A lovely soft rose-lilac, al-
most pink, beautiful. 2 to 3 feet.
HONORABLIS. Intense yellow and bronze.
Very effective. 2 to 214 feet.
COMMON. Purplish blue and purple. 114 to
2 feet.
SAPPHO. White, frilled with lilac and pure
white, reticulated lilac at the base; large
flower; a fine variety. 2 to 3 feet.
FAIRY. White, delicately bordered and suf-
fused with soft blue. Beautiful. Odor of peach
blossoms. 2 to 3 feet.
BLACK KNIGHT. Intense deep violet-blue,
and velvety-purple. Exceedingly rich.
PALLIDA SPECIOSA. Violet, white veined
plum color. Fragrant.
SIBERIAN. Deep blue, narrow leaves. 12 to
18 inches.
Page Forty-one
PEONIAS
These garden plants are
among the choicest and most
desirable. Their beautiful flow-
ers appear like immense roses,
are very fragrant, and. offer a
wide range of color. Bloom May
June. They are hardy and in-
dispensable. Below is a list of
the best varieties. Hardy every-
where.
FESTIVA MAXIMA. Very
large, globular, rose type. Pure
white center, prominently
flecked with crimson; outer
petals sometimes faint lilac,
white on first opening. Early.
The most popular white.
QUEEN VISTORIA. The broad
guard petals are a pretty bluish-
white, center slightly edged pink.
Large.
L'ESPERANCE. Deep rose
with crinkly, white tips; extra
large and fine; the earliest large
pink.
UMBELLATA ROSEA. Light
shell pink. Our earliest bloom-
ing peony. Very good.
FULGIDA. Very good crimson-
purple.
Peony Festiva Maxima
HARDY PHLOX
The Phlox which we list are all tried and true
— extra good for western planting. We take
pleasure in selling Phlox to our customers — we
know they are purchasing a flower worth while
— there is nothing better for summer and au-
tumn bloom. Miss Lingard, however, is an
early blooming variety, beginning to bloom be-
fore the Peony bloom is gone, Pyramidalis fol-
lows within ten days, about June 30th, and most
of the standard sorts begin to bloom in July.
Many of our customers purchase one each of
nearly every kind. They would make a much
better showing if they purchased less varieties
and more of each.
You will be well repaid if you keep soil loose
and moist around them. Mulch heavily with
fertilizer during winter. This protects Phlox
and enriches ground.
BRIDESMAID. White tinted lavender, pink
eye. Medium.
CHAMPS EL YSEE. Rich dark crimson. Me-
dium.
F. G. VON LASSBURG. The purest and larg-
est white phlox in cultivation. Medium.
MISS LINGARD. White, faint lilac eye. Very
free blooming. One of the most popular white
phlox grown.
JULIA. Round, compact heads, soft pink, red
eye. Medium height.
PYRAMIDALIS. Symmetrical head, pure
white. Very early. One of the hardiest and
most satisfactory white phlox grown.
FANTOME. Lavender.
R. P. STRUTHERS. Cherry red suffused
with salmon.
PLUTARCH. Deep crimson, stamens golden
yellow. Large and showy.
RUBRA SUPERBA. Large, deep red, very
late. Very fragrant.
PHILOMENE. Pink with yellow center. Free
bloomer. Distinct and novel.
UNNAMED PEONIAS. White, pink, red.
Hardy Phlox
Page Forty-two
i y ~ ^ -as V ^ B? a? —ns?
lA^rshalls JmrsGries Ai’Ungioiu J^6v.
Dahlia
SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS AND ROOTS
UUDER this heading will be listed many tender varieties of plants such as
Gannas, Dahlias, Gladiolas, etc., that will have to be taken up in fall after
frost comes and stored in the basement where they will not freeze and be
replanted in spring. However much one may dislike to do this we cannot dis-
pense with the Ganna, which is so widely used for its tropical, decorative effect ;
with the Dahlia which furnishes us with such a profusion of bloom from August
until frost or with the beautiful summer flowering Gladiola, so valuable for its
generous supply of cut flowers, which when cut in bud will last ten days in
the house.
Roots should be taken up before fall freezes and kept in a cool, dry cellar.
Plant 4-6 inches deep late in April or early part of May.
GANNAS
DAVID HA RUM. 3l^ feet, bronze foliage,
flowers fiery reddish orange.
KING HUMBERT. The grandest Ganna ever
offered. Large, leaves of purple madder brown
over bronze, crowned with immense heads of
Orchid-like flowers, velvety orange-scarlet
flecked carmine. A combination of leaf and
blossom incomparably beautiful. 4 to 4i/^ feet.
PRESIDENT McKinley. 2 to 3 feet, for out-
side row, green foliage, flowers crimson, shaded
RICHARD WALLACE. 4 feet, green foliage,
canary yellow flowers. Good variety.
GAGTUS DAHLIAS
COUNTESS OF LONSDALE. A peculiar but
pleasing blending of salmon-pink and amber,
a color difficult to describe. This is the dahlia
for the millions. Flowers freely under all con-
ditions.
PINK PEARL. Pull, perfect form, with blunt
quills, slightly waved. Lilac pink with lighter
tips and aureole; button center of deep rose.
PRINCE OF YELLOWS. Pure saffron yel-
low, perfect form, and liberal in its bloom dur-
ing an opportune season.
ICEBURG. Ivory white.
GEN. BULLER. Cardinal-red, each petal tip-
ped with white.
J. H. JACKSON. Brilliant crimson-maroon;
very free.
Canna
Page Forty- three
DECORATIVE DAHLIAS
A. D. LIVONI. Beautiful clear pink, of per-
fect form and very free.
CATHERINE DUER. Iridescent red; a fa-
vorite for cutting.
GRAND DUKE ALEXIS. Large, massive
flowers, ivory-white, with a faint tinge of rose
at the extremities of the petals.
JACK ROSE. Brilliant crimson red, rich and
glowing, similar in shade to the popular “Jack”
rose, which suggested its name. The habit of
the plant is perfect for garden decoration, while
its stiff stems, holding the large flowers erect,
secure for it a foremost place as a high-colored
cut flower.
QUEEN WILHELMINA. Immense, fluffy
flower of pure white with yellow center.
ZULU. Deep maroon with black shadings.
GLADIOLI
AUGUSTA. A beautiful white variety, with
lavender anthers. Strong spike, often having
two or three branches.
AMERICA. Beautiful, soft flesh-pink, faintly
tinged with lavender. A magnificent cut-flower.
BARON HU LOT. One of the finest blue
Gladioli. A deep violet blue with well-opened
flowers.
CRACKER JACK. Dark rich velvety maroon
with blotches of yellow on lower petals.
K LON DYKE. A clear yellow, with a vivid
crimson, maroon blotch in the throat, a splen-
did free grower.
MRS. FRANK PENDLETON. Bright rose
pink on a pure white ground. A giant blotch
Gladioli
of richest carmine red on lower petals. No
grander variety in existence.
MRS. FRANCIS KING. A striking shade of
light scarlet or flame color; one of the most
effective both in the border and when cut.
ROBERT BROOMFIELD. Pure white, large
flowers, very free.
Page Forty- four
An Effective Foundation Screen
MARSHALLS LANDSCAPE SERVICE
Nature provides the tools and pigments with which to turn your home grounds into a
beautiful bower, but she leaves it to you to blend the color tones into a harmonious
chorus and to shape the lines into a picture of true artistry.
No matter how pretentious the house or how humble, it can be made more pleasant, at-
tractive and homelike by a tasteful arrangement of the landscape surrounding it.
In addition to the personal satisfaction derived from attractive grounds, a very definite
financial value is added to the home place by a little careful horticulture.
The aim in planning the home grounds
should not be just a collection of plants
and other objects; it should be to pro-
duce a pleasing picture, blending and har-
monizing with the distant prospects.
There should be no evidence of a
strained effort toward individualism,
nothing to even suggest inconsistency
with local nature. Rather should one
strive for the appearance of a natural
beauty spot, the charm of which has been
enhanced, but not radically changed, by
loving hands.
We cordially invite your attention to
our system of practical Landscape Gar-
dening. We have carefully studied soils,
climate, trees, plants, roses, etc., and are
prepared to give our patrons the benefit
of our past experience, and will give their
work our personal attention. Every piece
of ground will be thoroughly studied, with
reference to its use and surroundings, its
advantages and charms, whether park,
farm or private grounds.
Our Landscape Department is thor-
oughly equipped to do this work. It will
solve every landscape problem for you;
conceal the bare foundation of the house;
soften the stiff angles of the architect-
ure; hide objectionable features of ad-
joining property; provide walks and
drives; Screen the service yard, vege-
table garden, fences, walls, etc.; enlarge
upon any particularly pleasing view; and
provide a succession of beautiful flowers
and pleasing contrasts of foliage during
the growing season, and attractive winter
color combinations in foliage, bark, and
fruits.
Oc Oi
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Thurt
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61 PAU Cor
By Mar&h^lls Nur5enes
Art<
This work is done by men who are acquainted with the habits of every tree, shrub, or flower
that will thrive in your locality. Every place demands a different plan that will exactly fit your
requirements. Call in our landscape architect before you plan your planting. Let him study
out the peculiar lay of your land, the conditions surrounding it and the influence the buildings
will have on the picture. If you do, you are certain to get a working plan from him that will be
more effective than any less expert knowledge could give you. The beautifying of your home
grounds is of sufficient importance, both from the standpoint of financial value and of personal
gratification to warrant you in employing expert advice and help.
We make detailed drawings and blue-prints, locating every tree and plant used in the plan.
No charge is made for the design when we furnish the stock for the planting.
Ask our agent or write us for further information.
Page Forty- five
QveGS ^EvpuBs cinci *J^Cciirds
-iSi «».
SPRAYING
There are four distinct types of troubles to combat, ie: chewing insects,
sucking insects, scale insects and fungous diseases. Chewing insects are
controlled with a stomach poison, some form of arsenic (lead arsenate),
sucking insects (lice or aphids) by body contact poison, (nicotine) or miscible oil
(kerosene emulsion) , and fungous diseases by lime-sulphur solution or Bordeaux
mixture. Be sure you know what you are spraying for since arsenate of lead will
not control lice or aphids, nor will nicotine or kerosene emulsion control apple
worms and neither of these will have any effect on apple scab or other fungous
diseases. Lime-sulphur is used as a dormant spray for scale insects and also for
fungous. In spraying the apple, keep in mind the two main apple troubles in the
Central West, codling moth and apple scab, and in controlling these most other
troubles are incidentally controlled. Lead-arsenate and lime-sulphur or Bordeaux
mixture are the sprays to use.
SPRAYING MATERIALS
The most common and best form of arsenic used is “arsenate of lead.” This may be se-
cured from drug stores and seed and garden supply houses. Thoroughly dissolve three pounds
of paste arsenate of lead or pounds of dry arsenate of lead in a small amount of water in a
pail and add to fifty gallons of water or other spraying solution.
Bordeaux mixture is prepared by dissolving four pounds of copper-sulphate ( (bluestone), in
a small amount of water and diluting to twenty-five gallons; slacking five to six pounds of good
lime and adding water to make twenty-five gallons. These solutions should then be combined
by pouring or dipping simultatenously from each into a third vessel or spray tank.
The commercial lime-sulphur is used almost exclusively by many fruit growers. This may
be obtained from same sources as arsenate of lead or direct from manufacturers. To combine
the fungous spray and the insect spray simply add the dissolved poisons to the fungus solutions.
Kerosene in its natural, undiluted state, is fatal to all insect and vegetable life, but properly
prepared may be used safely and with much benefit: Dissolve a bar of Ivory soap in one gallon
of hot water, then add two gallons of kerosene and churn it vigorously until cool.. If made right
it is then like cream, and will keep indefinitely. For general use take one part of the mixture
to ten parts water and use as a spray. Will be found very valuable in getting rid of aphis, mealy
bugs, red spider, etc. May be used against any soft-shelled insect.
SPRAYING MACHINERY
Spraying Machinery — The size of the spraying outfit needed depends on the size and age
of orchards. High pressure is essential for effective work in all cases. While this may be
obtained with high-grade hand-power outfits, it is slow and hard work to maintain the pressure.
For small orchards containing up to 100 or 200 trees, however, this kind of an outfit can be
made to do satisfactory work. But for larger orchards gasoline power outfits are recommended.
These are now manufactured in several sizes, but all maintaining the same high pressure. The
prices range from about $100 up for complete outfits. These are assembled in such manner
that the engine may be easily disconnected and be used throughout the year for pumping water
and other light work about the farm, making the actual extra cost for the pumps and other equip-
ment little more than for the best hand outfits.
If interested in a spraying outfit advise us and we will place you in touch with manufactur-
ers of good machines.
WHEN AND HOW TO SPRAY
GRAPE
What to Si*pay For
Treatment
When to Spray
Remarks
Anthracnose
Black Rot
Mildews
Bordeaux mixture.
(1) Just before buds open.
(2) After blossoms have fallen.
Two or three others at 10-14 day inter-
vals.
Careful winter pruning and disposal of
diseased wood with application of
lime-sulphur (winter strength) in
dormant season aids in anthracnose
control.
Berry Moth
Leaf Hopper
Bordeaux with 2 lbs.
Arsenate of Lead.
Follow program recommended above when
these insects are prevalent.
Dusting with fine sulphur is recom-
mended for some vines of European
origin for mildew control.
BLACKBERRY AND RASPBERRY
Anthracnose
Lime-sulphur as di-
1 rected.
1
(1) In spring before growth starts (2%
gal. in 50).
(2) When new shoots are 6-8 inches
high (l^A gal. in 50).
(3) Just before blooming period. Di-
lute as in (2).
Pag-e Forty -six
"V*
yf(cirshalls J^rseries Jlrlingion, J^6v.
WHEN AND HOW TO SPRAY— Continued
APPLE
What to Spray for
Treatment
When to Spray
Remarks
Scale Insects
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 8 ;
Scalecide.
Miscible Oils
In dormant season; when trees are leaf-
less.
Protect men and animals at work from
caustic action of Lime-sulphur on
the skin.
Apple Aphids
(lice)
Nicotine, 1 to 800,
added to lime-sul-
phur, 1 to 40.
In spring when buds are bursting show-
ing green tips.
Of no use after leaves are curled. Use
high pressure.
Scab
Black Rot
Bud Moth
Cankerworm
Tent Caterpillar
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 40,
with 2 lbs. Arsenate
of Lead.
When flower buds show pink, but be-
fore any have opened. (Other sprays
as recommended for codling moth, be-
low, will incidentally control troubles
in this group.)
In severe cases of cankerworm use
Paris Green 4 oz. in fifty gallons of
water with twice as much slaked
lime.
Codling Moth
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 40,
with 2 lbs. Arsenate
of Lead.
Arsenate of Lead, 2
lbs. to 50 gals,
water.
(1) When most of the petals have fallen
(calyx spray).
(2) Approximately three weeks after the
bloom.
(3) Approximately ten weeks after . the
bloom.
(4) Fifteen to seventeen weeks after the
bloom.
After weather becomes hot (from about
July 1) discontinue lime-sulphur and
use Bordeaux with 2 lbs. Arsenate
of Lead.
Necessary in South where there may be
three broods in one season.
Blotch
Curculio
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 40,
with 2 lbs. Arsenate
of Lead.
Bordeaux, 4-4-50, with
2 lbs. Arsenate of
Lead.
(1) As in (2) under codling moth
(above) except two weeks after bloom
in south.
(2) Approximately five weeks after the
fall of the bloom.
(3) As in (3) under codling moth
(above).
Clean orcharding assists in curculio
control. Spraying not always wholly
effective.
Arsenate of Lead may be omitted if no
curculio is present.
Sooty Blotch
Fly Speck
Usually cheeked as incidental results of
applications recommended above.
More common in regions where air and
water drainage is poor.
Bitter Rot
Bordeaux
Where disease is looked for begin spray-
ing in early summer, making applica-
tions often enough to keep fruit coated.
Apple Rust or
Cedar Rust
Spraying not effective.
Remove cedar trees nearby.
The rust cannot live without cedars on
which it spends part of the year.
Blight
See under Pear, Fire Blight.
PLUM
San Jose Scale
European Fruit
Scale
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 8.
When tree is dormant.
Curculio
Brown Rot
Leaf Spot
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 50,
with 2 lbs. Arsenate
of Lead. '
Similar to cherrv, which see.
Brown rot spreads very rapidly in
waiTU, moist weather and can be con-
trolled only if fruit is kept coated.
PEAR
Fire Blight
Spraying ineffective.
In some cases where particular care is taken, prompt and severe pruning at the
first sign of blight, disinfecting tools and wounds with corrosive sublimate
solution, may check its spread to some extent.
Scale Insects
Blister Mite
Pear Psylla
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 8 ;
Scalecide.
Miscible Oils.
In donnant season, preferably early spring.
Scrape dormant trees and burn all orch-
ard trash to aid in psylla control.
Practically all the other common diseases
methods of control under apple (above)
and insects on the apple are also found on the pear to some extent. See
CHERRY
Curculio
Brown Rot
Leaf Spot
Shot Hole Fungus
Lime-sulphur, 1 to 50,
with 2 lbs. Arsenate
of Lead.
(1) Just before buds open. i
(2) Immediately after blossoms fall.
(3) About ten days after (2).
(4) Additional sprays if necessary at
two-week intervals. i
In some localities it may be safer to
dilute the lime-sulphur somewhat,
preventing foliage injury.
Cherry Aphis
Nicotine sulphate, 1 to
800.
When aphids first appear before they
have caused the leaves to curl.
Be careful to cover underside of leaves.
Use high pressure and soap.
Cherry Slug
Arsenate of Lead, 2
lbs. to 50 gals,
water.
On first appearance of insects.
CURRANT AND GOOSEBERRY
Leaf Spot
Anthracnose
Bordeaux
Beginning as soon as the leaves are op-
ened make five to seven applications
at two-week intervals.
Currant Worm
Arsenate of Lead, 2
lbs. to 50 gals,
water.
At the first appearance of the worms. If
there are two broods repeat spray.
Dry hellebore may be dusted on, if near
picking time.
Currant Plant
Louse
Nicotine sulphate, 1 to
800 of water.
Soon after eggs hatch in spring (soon
after the leaves open).
Thoroughness necessary, hitting all
leaves from beneath.
STRAWBERRY
Leaf Spot
Bordeaux
Before blossoms open. Additional appli-
cations if spot appears.
Renew beds frequently. May mow off
and burn foliage after berries are
picked.
Page Forty-seven
H) ^ -qs es> V
^nr*uSs and ^Canis
-<* ^ fifc «i se dtL.
■w
A.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Apple, The 7
Summer 7-8
Fall 8-9
Winter 9-11
Crab 11
Apricots 16
Asparagus 23
Blackberries 20
Care of Stock When Received 3
Cherries 13
Currants 20
Directions for Transplanting, Care, Etc 3-6
Evergreens 28
Abies 28
Juniperus 28
Picea 28
Pinus 29
Thuya 29
Grapes 18
Black 18
Red 18
White 18
Juneberry 19
Guarantee of Genuineness 2
Gooseberries 19
Herbaceous Perennials 39-41
Peonias 42
Hardy Phlox 42
Introductory 2
Landscape Service 45
Number of Trees and Plants on an Acre 3
Ornamental Department 24
Deciduous Trees 24-26
Weeping Trees 26-27
Ornamental Hedges 35
Ornamental Shrubs 30-34
Peaches 17
Pears 12
Planting, Pruning 3-6
Plums 14
Hansen’s Hybrid 15
Raspberries 21
Black 21
Red 21
Rhubarb 23
Roses 37
Climbing 37
Hardy Hybrid 38
Moss 38
Yellow June 38
Bush 38
Rugosa 38
Shelter Belt Planting 27
Spraying Formulas 46-47
Strawberries 22
Everbearing 22-23
Summer Flowering Bulbs and Roots 43
Cannas 43
Dahlias 43-44
Gladioli 44
COMIC
CO.. ST. JOSEI