Planting and care of nursery stock / prepared by Rose Hill Nursery

Historic, Archive Document

Do not assume content reflects current
scientific knowledge, policies, or practices.

Planting and Care
of Nursery
Stock

Prepared by

3SE HILL NURSERY

MINNEAPOLIS - ST. PAUL

%

^rr

— -

INDEX

Care of Nursery Stock upon Arrival 1

“Heeling- In” of Nursery Stock 1

How to Prepare Soil and Plants before
Planting 1

Firming Soil Around Roots and Watering 2

Planting Points to Remember 2

Planting — Apples, Plums, Cherries 3

Currants, Gooseberries 3

Raspberries, Blackberries 3

Grapes 4

Strawberries 5

Asparagus 6

Rhubarb 6

, Ornamental Shrubs 6

Hedges 6

Trees 7

Evergreens 8

Roses 9

Perennials 9

Reasons for Pruning 10

Pruning — Fruit Trees 10

Ornamental Shrubs 11

Hedges 12

Roses 13

Trees 14

Cultivation and Care after Planting ...15-16

Insects and Diseases 17

Factors to Consider in Spraying 17

Formulas for Simple Sprays 18

Practical Plant Points 19

CARE OF NURSERY STOCK UPON
ARRIVAL

Orders outside of the Twin Cities are
sent by freight, express or parcel post.
Call for your order on date we notify you
or when notified by transportation com-
pany. Twin City orders are delivered by
truck. All our goods are carefully packed
so as to reach destination in good order.
Customers should see that the package is
not allowed to remain exposed to sun and
wind. Prompt planting often means the
difference between success and failure.

“HEELING IN” NURSERY STOCK
If it is impossible to plant the stock for
a few days it can be taken care of by open-
ing the bundle and spreading out the
plants, covering' the roots with moist soil.
Dig a trench wide and deep enough to
cover the roots entirely, then fill in soil
to cover roots and if ground is not moist
use plenty of water. If you cannot “heel
in,” soak the bundle and place in* basement
or other cool place where the roots will
not freeze. It is well to remember that
plants are things of life and must be
treated as such.

HOW TO PREPARE SOIL AND PLANTS
BEFORE PLANTING
The soil should be well pulverized and
loose throughout the area where plants
are to be placed. This can be done by
spading or plowing. If the soil is not rich
an inch or two of rotted manure well
mixed with the soil will be beneficial.
Never use manure in direct contact with
the roots.

After the soil has been worked into
good condition, the holes should* be dug.
They should be larger than the spread of
the root system on the plant. Before
planting trim any broken or badly bruised

l

roots. They should be cut oft with a sharp
knife. This enables them to start a new
growth more quickly.

FIRMING SOIL AROUND ROOTS AND
WATERING

Fine loose soil should be worked with
the fingers in among the roots so that no
air spaces are allowed to remain causing
the roots to dry out. When the roots have
been covered, stamp the soil as solid as pos-
sible. This may be accomplished by press-
ing down hard upon the soil with your
foot using your whole weight. If water
is available it should be used freely while
planting as it will settle the soil around
the roots and a, good vigorous growth will
soon start. Be sure to leave a loose soil
mulch of three inches on the top after
planting.

GENERAL PLANTING POINTS TO
REMEMBER

1. Never allow the roots to dry out —
expose only the plants you are going to
plant immediately.

2. Dig holes larger than the spread of
the roo.ts.

3. Place good black or top soil around
the roots.

4. Pack the earth firmly around the
roots and leave three inches of loose soil
on top after planting.

5. Do not plant too deep nor too shal-
low— about the same depth as they stood
in the nursery.

6. Where water is available, soak the
soil thoroughly when planting and only
as needed thereafter.

7. Correct planting means that a plant
in its new location should be left in a
proper position, top properly trimmed and
roots firmly embedded in the soil.

2

8. Do not allow weeds and grass to
grow around the plant — keep the top soil
loose.

Planting Apples, Plums and Cherries.
Plant apples and Crabs about 20 feet apart,
Plums 10 to 15 feet, Cherries 10 feet,
except when planting Rocky Mountain
Cherries which may be set 5 to 6 feet
apart. Dig a hole wider and deeper than
the root system of the tree to be planted.
A hole 2x2 will generally be sufficiently
large unless the tree is to be planted in
sod or very poor soil when a hole a foot
larger will be better. If poor ground,
fill the hole with good surface soil. Re-
move any broken roots, cutting the ends
smooth with a sharp knife. Place the
tree in the hole and spread the roots out
in their natural position, working in good
fine soil among the roots. Always examine
the tree and se.e that it is placed at the
same depth as it stood in the nursery.
Pack the soil firmly around the roots using
your feet and your full weight. Immedi-
ately after planting trim the top, cut-
ting back the branches about half their
length. See cut of fruit tree properly
trimmed also, refer to article on pruning.

Currants and Gooseberries. Plant about
four feet apart each way. If the soil can
be enriched by applying rotted manure,
there will be a larger and better fruit.
The . plants do not need severe pruning
when planted. About one-third of the
weakest branches should be cut out. After
the first trimming, currants and goose-
berries need no pruning for four or five
years. After that time old and weak wood
should be removed each year to invigorate
the plant.

Raspberries and Blackberries. Plant in
rows six feet apart and two to three feet

3

apart in the row. For city lot planting
four feet apart each way will give good
results. See that all the roots are spread
out in their natural position. When
planting cut back canes to four inches
from the ground and be careful not to
plant raspberries too deep. Canes that
have borne fruit should be cut out just
above the ground after the fruit crop is
harvested. This year’s new canes produce
the fruit next year. Black Raspberries
and Blackberries should be covered with
earth or straw for winter protection.
Latham Raspberry is hardy without pro-
tection.

Grapes. Choose a warm, sunny location
if possible. Plant in rows eight feet apart
and vines about five feet apart in the row.
The roots are often very long and can be
cut back to eight or ten inches. Dig the
holes plenty large enough to accommo-
date the roots and firm the soil when
planting. Trim back vines to two buds;
this is important. About November 1st
when the wood is thoroughly ripened, cut
back vines to within three or four buds.
When trimming grapes do not cut too
close to the bud — leave an inch or two of
wood beyond. The following spring allow
only two buds to grow; these should grow
5 to 8 feet during the summer. Again
about November 1st cut the shoots back
to about four feet. The following spring
these two shoots should be fastened hori-
zontally to the lower part o-f the trellis.
When growth starts allow only such shoots
to grow as will leave upright branches
about a foot apart. As these grow train
to grow in an upright position until they
reach the upper wire of the trellis. Each
year all weak wood should be cut out and
remaining vines cut back. Late in the
fall the vines should be taken down and
covered with dirt or coarse manure. Hardy

4

grapes such as Beta, Alpha and Hungarian
need no winter protection. These varie-
ties may also be planted for porch vines or
to cover buildings. A good trellis can be
made by using fence posts, leaving the
posts about five feet above the ground.
Stretch three or four smooth wires 15 or
18 inches apart, fastened securely with
staples.

Strawberries. Prepare soil as for other
garden crops. Plant in rows 4 feet apart
and 18 inches apart in the row. In small
gardens plants may be grown in hills 18
to 24 inches each way. By planting this
way, most new plants should be destroyed
or the plants will become too thick. Per-
fect flowering varieties such as Senator
Dunlap and Progressive will bear a good
crop planted alone, but varieties with im-
perfect flowers, such as Warfield, should
be alternated with some variety having
perfect blossoms. To facilitate planting,
the roots can be cut off to one-half or two-
thirds of their length and all the foliage
should be removed except two of the top
young leaves (see cut). The plants should
be set so the crown (where the leaves
start) is just at the surface of the ground.
Plants set below the crown will not grow —
neither will plants set too shallow. Three
or four inches of straw applied in Novem-
ber will give a good winter protection.

5

Asparagus. Plant in soil heavily en-
riched by rotten manure. Where the space
is limited plant 18 to 24 inches apart each
way, otherwise in rows 3 or 4 feet apart
and plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row.
Plant so the tops are under the soil one or
two inches. Keep bed free from weeds.
Do not cut the Asparagus the first year.
Enrich each year for best results.

Rhubarb. Rhubarb will grow most any-
where but for best results rich soil is
necessary. Plant about 2 feet apart and
set the plant so the crown is about an inch
below the surface. Add plenty of ferti-
lizer each year and keep the grass out.

Ornamental Shrubs. When planting
shrubs dig the hole wide and deep enough
to admit all roots without crowding. If
the soil is poor, remove same and fill in
with good soil. Should there be any
broken roots remove them with a sharp
knife. See that the roots are spread out
in their natural position and good, fine
soil worked in between the roots. Plant
same depths as shrubs grew in the nursery.
Tramp the soil down as solid as possible
around the shrub. Planters having a
water-system will find it to a great advan-
tage to use water freely in planting. When
the 'roots are covered with fine soil, fill
the hole with water. When this water
has settled, fill the hole with earth and
firm with your foot, using your whole
weight. Trim severely immediately after
planting (see cut and article under prun-
ing). Hydrangea plants should be
trimmed very severely, cutting back the
plants to 10 to 12 inches. By doing this
strong new shoots will develop, each tip-
ped with an immense blossom.

Hedges. Dig a trench 15 to 18 inches
wide and about as deep. If all the soil is
not good, place the black dirt to one side

6

and remove the bottom or poor soil, replac-
ing- it with fertile soil. After the trench
has been completed, start to plant at one
end, using a small rule or stick for proper
spacing of plants. Do not lay out the entire
lot of plants before starting to plant be-
cause they will dry out quickly. The dis-
tance apart to plant will vary according to
variety. Buckthorn, Caragana, and Russian
Olive should be set 8 to 9 inches apart.
Thunberg’s Barberry 12 to 18 inches, Hon-
eysuckle, Cotoneaster and Dogwood, 10
to 12 inches, Alpine Currant, 12 inches,
Bridal Wreath 18 to 24 inches. Pill in
good top soil around the roots and firm by
pressing down hard with your heel. Al-
ways see that the plants are set about the
same depth that they stood in the nursery.
After all the plants have been set water
them thoroughly and as soon as water has
settled fill the trench with soil, packing
it firmly. Leave an inch of loose soil on
top when planting is finished. The plants
must be trimmed immediately after plant-
ing. See article on pruning.

Trees. Ornamental trees require care
in planting to be successful. When plant-
ing always dig the hole much larger than
required for the root system. If soil is
not good remove same and fill in with good
earth. Remove all broken or badly in-
jured roots. Make a clean cut where rag-
ged ends occur. Place the tree in the hole
and spread out the roots in their natural
position, then fill in good top soil around
the roots, being sure to use your fingers to
work loose soil among the fine roosts. It
is difficult to get the soil to pack firmly in
among the roots and it is therefore a good
plan as soon as the roots are covered to
fill the hole with water which will settle
the soil around the roots. When the water
has been allowed to settle fill the hole
with soil and firm. Some smooth barked

7

trees as Mountain Ash, Basswood, Lin-
den and Wiers Cut Leaved Maple are
greatly benefited by wrapping the trunk
for the first two years with burlap. The
burlap should be removed at least once a
year to avoid injury to the tree from gird-
ling. If there is sufficient rain so the
ground is kept moist, do not water trees
but if soil does not contain plenty of mois-
ture, water or rather soak the trees once
a week. It takes a lot of water to reach
the bottom of the roots. Trimming must
be attended to immediately before or after
setting. See cut and also refer to article
on pruning.

Evergreens. Evergreens are delivered
either “Balled and Burlapped” or with
roots packed in moist packing material.
Care must be taken not to expose ever-
greens to sun and wind as it will kill them
quickly. When evergreens arrive balled
and burlapped they should not be allowed
to remain unplanted longer than abso-
lutely necessary. Dig a hole nearly twice
as large as necessary to accommodate the
ball but do not plant deeper than the tree
originally grew. When hole is one half
filled with soil, fill balance with water,
allow to soak in and fill with wTater again
to be sure the ball is staked through.
When the hole is three quarters filled the
burlap may be loosened or cut at the trunk
of the tree and turned back in order that
soil may be packed close to the trunk.
Evergreens that are delivered without ball
must be planted without delay. Keep
weeds and grass from growing near the
trees. Evergreens need no pruning when
planted. When weather is dry Evergreens
need to be soaked once a week but do not
water when there is sufficient rain to keep
the ground moist.

8

Roses. The preparation of soil is very
essential and to obtain the most satisfac-
tory results they should be planted in well
drained, rich, deep* soil in a location where
they will have good sunlight and good air
circulation.

Straighten out all roots when planting
and be sure to pack the earth hard around
them. When budded Roses are planted
be sure to get the buds two to three
inches below the surface. Water thor-
oughly being sure the bed is soaked to
the bottom. Do not water oftener than
necessary. Cultivate the soil very shallow,
just enough to leave a dust mulch on the
surface. After the plants have started to
grow give them a light mulch of well rot-
ted manure. This will conserve moisture
and provide plant food.

Pruning is very important. Roses
should be pruned back to about 8 inches
immediately after planting. (See cut.)

Winter protection is necessary. They
should be covered with a foot of straw
then brush or boards laid on to hold it
during the winter.

Perennials. Perennials may be “heeled
in” before planting but must be placed
separately and not covered above the
crown. The soil should be dug deep and
be well pulverized. Well rotted manure
should be added and worked into the soil
thoroughly. Perennials should be planted
at exactly the depth of their root systems.
Water them well immediately after plant-
ing and thereafter only as they need it.
Examine the soil to be sure. Well rotted
manure will make an excellent mulch and
aid greatly in conserving moisture.

Perennials are greatly benefited by care-
ful and regular cultivation. Do not cul-
tivate too deep but be sure to always have
the ground loose on the surface.

9

All withered flowers should he cut off.
Perennials are everblooming through
their individual season if the blooms are
kept cut rather than allowed to go to seed.
Use the Perennials for bouquets and pro-
long the blooming season.

Always cover in the fall to prevent
alternate thawing and freezing.

REASONS FOR PRUNING

1. To maintain a balance between root
system and top.

2. To remove injured, diseased or dead
branches.

3. To secure the desired form and
height of the plant.

4. To improve or modify the natural
form of the plant for some specific reason.

5. To encourage production of more
flowers. In the case of newly planted
stock, tops should be cut back to compen-
sate for the loss of roots in moving.

Cuts should always be clean and close
to the main trunk or branch. Pruning
shears, knives and hand saws are the best
tools to use and should be sharp. Pruning
is however only one important phase in
the care of plants and must be accom-
panied by constant good cultivation and
feeding for successful returns.

Fruit Trees should always be pruned
back severely upon planting. It is usually
advisable to open the head of the tree by
thinning out small branches, leaving only
part of the central leader with a few of the
shortened lateral branches. All cross
branches should be removed as well as
injured limbs.

If plums* and cherries are pruned similar

10

to apples they will give good results. See
the illustration for proper pruning.

Ornamental Shrubs. All shrubs should
be cut back severely at the time of plant-
ing. Care should be given to properly
shape the plant at this time. Shrubs
should be examined carefully and broken
limbs removed at this time. With newly
planted stock remove at least one-third of
the top to offset loss of roots. (See cut.)

ll

Hydrangea shrubs should be cut back to
one foot from the ground.

Shrubs may be pruned at any season of
the year if no consideration is given to
flower production. Late summer pruning
sometimes stimulates new growth that may
not ripen by fall and be exposed to winter
killing.

All early flowering shrubs should be
pruned shortly after the blooming period.
Summer or late flowering shrubs^ should
be pruned in the late winter or early
spring before growth' has started.

PRUNING HEDGES

When a trimmed hedge is desired, cut ;
the plant back % to % its height. This
tends to form a heavy growth at the base
of the hedge and is the only way in which
this can be secured. Severe trimming at

12

time of planting will save future disap-
pointment. As soon as the hedge has
grown three or four inches cut the tops to
induce further branching, thereby thicken-
ing the hedge. Repeat trimming as often
as necessary. A hedge allowed to grow
several months without trimming is not
ornamental and time is lost in growing a
dense hedge. If a graceful, natural grow-
ing hedge is wanted such as Bridal Wreath
or Thunberg’s Barberry, the plants need
to be trimmed only about half as much
when planted and thereafter only enough
to keep the hedge in the desired shape and
height.

Roses. Prune all roses back to 4 or 5
short stems carrying 2 to 3 buds. For
newly planted roses see illustration. All
hybrid and hardy roses should be pruned
in April when the sap starts to flow. At
this time dead wood can be easily distin-
guished and removed. Severe trimming of
roses will produce large blooms and longer
stems.

In pruning Rugosa roses, cut back
several inches of the stems and always re-
move wood to the base of the plant when
it becomes old.

Climbing Roses need one-third to one-
fourth of the wood removed. Old wood
should be removed once every three years.
See illustration for pruning a newly planted
Rose.

13

ROSE

Before and After

Trimming

Trees. Trees must be severely top prun-
ed to offset loss of roots in moving. A gen-
eral rule is to remove about one-half the
top. This may be done by cutting out all
small, weak branches, removing all branch-
es that cross or will later need removal,
and also cutting back the branches that
are to remain. All cuts should be close to
the main stem or branches and no stubs
allowed to remain. The branches should

14

be removed at a height desired to form the
top of the tree. For pruning a newly-
planted tree see cut.

OtiAD £* Ttt-frfr

<5 tOUHJ Li H«- ^

CULTIVATION AND CARE AFTER
PLANTING

Watering should be done only when
the plants require it. To determine
whether watering is necessary dig near
the plants to a depth of at least eight
inches and note the moisture in the soil.

15

A careful examination of the soil will avoid
loss from, too much water as well as
drought. Too much water is as bad as
too little.

Do not confine watering to a daily sprin-
kle. This is only a waste of water and
time. When watering thoroughly saturate
the soil and be sure it has penetrated.
Watering is usually not required oftener
than once a week, depending upon weather
conditions. Always water either early in
the morning or late in the afternoon.

Staking. Trees of large size should be
staked especially in windy locations. This
prevents movement of the root system and
enables the tree to get a quicker start. Be
careful in staking not to use wire in tieing
the tree. A soft material such as an old
hose should be used around the trunk and
removed twice a year to prevent girdling.

Cultivation. All pTants should bo given
clean cultivation. Weeds rob the plants
of food and moisture and must be kept out.
If a dust mulch is kept up in cultivation,
the plants will grow during a dry period.
Roses and perennials must be given care-
ful cultivation for success depends upon
care.

Winter Protection and Mulching. All
fruit trees should be examined during the
winter to determine whether rabbits or
mice are doing injury. If the animals are
injuring the trees a protection should be
given them. Usually wrapping the body
of the tree with building paper, corn stalks
or any other material handy, will prevent
injury.

All but hardy roses of the Rugosa or
Harrison Yellow type must be covered to
prevent winter killing. A straw covering
about a foot thick held in place with tar
paper or light boards is best.

16

Perennials must be covered each fall
after the ground freezes to prevent heav-
ing and alternate thawing and freezing. A
straw or light straw manure cover will
serve the purpose.

It will greatly benefit all plants to pro-
vide a winter mulch when possible, for it
will eliminate considerable trouble from
alternate thawing and freezing which is so
injurious to plant life.

INSECTS AND DISEASES

Do not hesitate to consult the ento-
mologist at the University Farm when you
need information about insects and dis-
eases. A large amount of information
is available for your use. Due to our
limited space we cannot incorporate any-
thing but a few general remedies.

Factors to Consider in Spraying. 1. A
spray mixture must be the correct one, for
example, it does no good to use a poison on
an insect classed as a sucking insect, nor
to use it when an insect is at a period in
its life when it does not eat. 2. Spray
mixtures must not injure plants or the
cure will be worse than the insect. 3 A
thorough job must be done or poor results
will follow. 4. The spray must strike
every part of the plant and stick long
enough to be of some use. 5 If rain fol-
lows soon after spraying it may be neces-
sary to spray again.

Sprays intended for leaf eating insects
are classified as POISONS and the insect
is killed by eating it. You can readily see
by examining the leaves if portions have
been eaten. If so, a Poison spray should
be applied.

Those Sprays intended for sucking in-
sects are classified as CONTACT INSECTI-
CIDES. They kill by suffocating the insect.
The insect must be covered for it is the

17

physical action which kills it. When plants
are attacked by sucking insects the leaves
usually curl up and by opening you will
find the underside is covered with a small
aphis or louse.

The third class of sprays are called
FUNGICIDES and are used against fungus
growth, such as rust, mildew, canker and
rot. This class usually contains sulphur,
either lime-sulphur or bordeaux mixture.
They also act as a contact insecticide
against scale insects.

If it is necessary to spray for both fun-
gus diseases and insects the sprays can be
combined so that both insects and fungus
can be sprayed in one operation.

Some form of spraying machine no mat-
ter how simple should be used to apply the
spray. This is for the purpose of securing
a mist spray which eliminates the danger
of the spray running off quickly and there-
by losing its value.

FORMULAS FOR SIMPLE SPRAYS
POISONS — for leaf eating insects.

1. Arsenate of lead — 1 oz. to 2 gal. water

— 4 y2 heaping tablespoonsfuls are
equal to one ounce.

2. Hellebore — 1 oz to 2 gal. of water.

3. Paris Green — 2 level tablespoons to 3

gallons of water.

Arsenate of Lead and Hellebore can
also be used as dust sprays by placing the
poison in a cloth sack and dusting lightly
on the plants while the dew is still on the
plants.

CONTACT INSECTICIDES — for leaf
sucking insects.

1. Dissolve y2 lb. hard soap to 5 gal. of
water. Apply when cool.

18

2. Commercial nicotine sulphate (Black

Leaf 40) pint to 50 gal. water.
Directions are* always on the con-
tainer. 2 lbs. of hard soap may be
added to this.

3. One lb. of tobacco stems steeped in 2

gal. of water until the color of
strong tea.

4. Kerosene Emulsion % lb. of hard

soap, 1 gal. of boiling water, 2 gal.
of kerosene. Mix thoroughly until
a creamy fluid, then dilute this to 17
gal. of water. Or, use 1 part of the
stock solution to 10 parts of water.

FUNGICIDES for Fungus Diseases.

1. Bordeaux mixture.

2. Commercial concentrated Lime-sul-

phur.

Consult the experimental station bulle-
tins for complete information regarding
the use of these sprays.

Don’t wait for pests to strip your trees
and fruit — spray first.

Don’t neglect to watch the wind when
spraying and be sure to cover the entire
plant.

Don’t hesitate about asking your ento-
mologist at the University Farm for spray-
ing information. Specimens of the injured
plant or insect will aid them in quickly
determining your trouble. Living insects
can be sent through the mail in a tight
wooden box.

PRACTICAL PLANT POINTS

1. In pruning cut just above the bud.
You can shape the plant by picking an in-
side or outside bud.

2. Give thorough cultivation to all
nursery stock. Be sure it has sufficient
moisture and plant food.

19

3. If in a section where birds eat your
grapes, bag the grapes to prevent them.

4. Keep your strawberries clean and
most of the runners pinched back.

5. “Spray” — Raise fruit and enjoy it.

6. “Canines and Conifers” — a bad com-
bination. Screen the Arbor Vitae or tie
up the pup.

7. The dirt mark shows where plants
stood in the nursery row. Set them at the
same depth.

8. Stake large shade trees if in a windy
location and be sure to tramp the soil
firmly when planting.

9. Cover your perennials in winter to
protect from sudden changes in tempera-
ture.

10. Never leave stubs when cutting off
limbs.

11. Plant now. You will reap the har-
vest one year earlier than if you wait until
next year.

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