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Full text of "Better tomato seed : season 1929-1930 [catalog] / H.P. Langdon & Son."

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Historic,  Archive  Document 

Do  not  assume  content  reflects  current 
scientific  knowledge,  policies,  or  practices. 


Tomato  Seed 


eason  IQ2Q=  IQ30 


♦ 


H.  P.  LANDDCIM  &  SCN 

Qfo.r<Cm  aio  ofeeJsmen 

CCNTTACLE,  N.  Y. 


Vegetable  Seed  Trials 


D.  N.  Shoemaker 


ONLY  a  handful — yet  it  has  more 
than  four  thousand  seeds.  Each 
seed  will  bea“chip  of  the  old  block.” 
The  factors  of  variety,  earliness,  qual¬ 
ity  and  prolificacy  that  will  make  or 
lose  your  profit  are  already  deter¬ 
mined —  now  before  the 
seed  is  even  sown. 


Is  grown  for  you  in  the  way  you  would  grow  it  for  yourself 
— if  you  could  afford  it. 


If  you  were  to  select  your  own  tomato  seed,  how  would 
you  do  it? 

“Well,”  you’d  probably  say,  “One  has  to  know  first  just 
what  he  wants.” 

That  is  true.  An  Earliana  plant  with  a  wonderful  crop, 
but  a  few  days  late,  is  not  worth  much  for  seed,  is  it? 
Neither  is  that  extra  early  plant  of  Bonny  Best,  if  for  earli¬ 
ness  it  has  sacrificed  in  yield  and  quality. 

So  you  would  first  consider  the  season  of  each  variety, 
and  in  connection  with  this,  the  purpose. 

You  would  have  an  ideal  in  your  mind  in  choosing  the 
plant  type.  It  must  be  prolific,  of  course,  with  a  high  per¬ 
centage  of  marketable  fruit;  vigorous,  with  neither  too 
much  nor  too  little  vine;  disease  resistant. 

All  these  things  and  many  others  you  would  consider,  if 
you  were  saving  your  own  seed. 


Can  we,  your  tomato  seedsmen,  do  more  than  this?  We 
know  tomatoes,  of  course.  Our  fields  can  be  left  until  fully 
ripe  before  selecting.  We  have  absolutely  no  Wilt  (seed 
from  infected  plants  will  carry  the  disease).  We  are  located 
in  the  extreme  north  (  northeastern  New  York)  where  vigor 
and  stamina  must  be  bred  into  a  tomato  if  it  is  to  mature  a 
crop. 

The  outstanding  advantage,  however,  is  this :  When  you 
select  an  extra  good  plant,  you  can’t  tell  whether  or  not  it 
will  transmit  those  good  qualities  through  its  seed.  Chances 
are  that  it  will  not.  So  you  would  have  to  plant  that  seed 
in  a  plot  by  itself  next  year  and  prove  it  out — so  far  as  a 
single  year  would  prove  it.  If  you  select  ten  hills  to  a  va¬ 
riety  and  you  grow,  say,  five  kinds,  you  must  carry  on  fifty 
trial  plots,  to  say  nothing  of  a  few  trials  of  new  varieties. 

For  a  few  ounces  of  seed  this,  naturally,  wouldn’t  pay 
you.  But  for  hundreds  of  pounds  of  seed,  going  to  several 
thousand  enthusiastic  gardeners,  we  can  do  just  this. 


[  Page  Two  ] 


Briefly,  the  idea  of  line  breeding  is  this: 

A  number  of  the  best  plants  of  a  strain  are  chosen;  the 
seed  of  each  plant  kept  by  itself.  When  these  separate  plots 
are  grown  the  next  year  there  will  be  a  difference  between 
them — each  one  won’t  be  the  same  high  class  stock  its  par¬ 
ent  was.  Some  of  those  fine  plants  will  have  failed  to  per¬ 
petuate  their  good  qualities.  The  best  plot,  therefore,  has 
something  the  other  plots  have  not;  for  its  good  family 
traits,  if  we  may  call  them  that,  are  strong.  The  vigor,  the 
yield  and  quality  of  fruit  that  made  the  parent  plant  excep¬ 
tional  have  in  this  case  been  passed  on  to  the  next  genera¬ 
tion.  These  traits  will  probably  be  transmitted  again. 

This  plot,  then,  will  have  proven  to  some  extent  its 
superior  value  as  a  breeding  stock.  The  best  plants  will  be 
selected  from  it  for  the  trials  the  next  year. 

Each  year’s  work  in  this  way,  using  the  finest  plants 
from  the  best  plot  of  the  year  before,  will  gradually  bring  to 
the  strain  a  uniformity  of  type,  a  vigor,  and  a  degree  of 
productiveness  that  can  be  reached  by  no  other  method. 


s 


Your  seed  is  grown  from  the  finest  stock  in  the  line 
breeding  plots.  The  young  plants  are  rogued  at  transplant¬ 
ing  for  vigor,  and  in  the  field  for  purity  of  type.  In  gath¬ 
ering  the  crop  only  medium  to  large  smooth  fruit  are  taken 
for  seed.  The  plant,  however,  and  not  the  individual  fruit  is 
used  as  the  basis  of  selection.  Seed  is  taken  from  only 
those  plants  high  in  vigor,  yield  and  quality,  as  well  as  in 
the  other  desirable  characteristics  of  that  variety. 

The  ripe  fruit  is  ground  promptly;  the  pulp  washed  out 
at  just  the  right  stage  of  fermentation.  The  seed  is  very 
carefully  dried  and  thoroughly  screened,  leaving  only 
plump,  vigorous  stock.  Any  seed  unsold  after  eighteen 
months  is  discarded — only  fresh  seed  will  be  sold. 

Orders  are  filled  postpaid  within  twenty-four  hours,  de¬ 
livery  guaranteed. 


[  Page  Three  ] 


ADIRONDACK  EARLIANA 

(120  days,  red) 

Germinal  ion  Tests  88-96  % 


The  Adirondack  Strain  of  Earliana  has  had  twenty-four 
generations  of  breeding  toward  one  ideal — extra  early  fruit 
of  real  market  quality. 

It  is  extra  early;  the  earliest  market  variety  of  which  we 
know.  The  fruit  has  given  up  much  of  the  cussedness  of  the 
old  type  Earliana;  it  is  smooth,  quite  deep,  and  firm.  Seed 
cells  are  small  and  with  thick  walls.  The  color  is  a  good 
hearty  red  extending,  for  an  Earliana,  remarkably  well  back 
toward  the  stem.  The  vines,  though  compact,  are  vigorous 
and  prolific. 

While  the  Earliana  variety  has  its  limitations,  as  has  the 
extremely  early  type  of  any  fruit,  an  improved  strain  such 
as  this  can  make  you  money.  Over  most  of  the  country  the 
demand  is  strong — and  the  price  high — for  the  first  home 
grown  tomatoes. 

Getting  first  on  the  market  is  partly  in  knowing  how,  and 
then  using  that  knowledge.  Start,  of  course,  with  seed  that 
will  appreciate  what  you  do  for  it.  Read  all  you  can  about 
growing  tomatoes.  Experiment  in  a  small  way  with  the 
methods  of  other  folks;  perhaps  you  can  adopt  some  of 
them  to  advantage. 

The  idea  that  the  use  of  acid  phosphate  tends  to  hasten 
maturity  is  more  than  a  theory;  it  is  a  fact  that  has  been 
demonstrated  over  and  over.  Technical  Bulletin  No.  28 
from  New  Hampshire  gives  some  interesting  results  from  a 
number  of  field  tests  along  this  line. 

Because  the  first  early  plants  are  well  advanced  in  ma¬ 
turity  when  set  in  the  field,  therefore  easily  checked,  and 
because  the  ground  is  yet  cool  and  with  little  available  nitro¬ 
gen,  the  use  of  nitrate  water  when  setting  is  of  especial  ben¬ 
efit  to  this  early  crop.  Read  over  the  suggestions  on  page 
sixteen  and  try  it  out  next  year. 

Plan  your  sowing  schedule  so  that  you  may  have  stocky, 
vigorous  plants  ready  to  blossom  when  setting  time  comes. 
And  give  them  room,  right  from  the  seed  bed.  A  soft,  spind¬ 
ling  plant  may  mature  a  crop  of  sorts,  but  the  real  tomatoes 
come  on  plants  which  have  had  a  chance  to  properly  de¬ 
velop.  This  is  especially  true  with  extra  early  varieties. 


[  Page  Four  ] 


MISSOURI  — 

Feb.  13,  1929 — This  makes  five  consecutive  years  I  have  used 
your  Earliana  and  I  do  not  find  anything  that  beats  them  for 
earliness  and  quality  of  fruit.  I  also  had  splendid  luck  with 
3rour  Bonny  Best  last  season. 


SOUTH  CAROLINA— 

Jan.  25,  1929 — I  have  great  success  with  your  Earliana 
tomato. 


MAINE  — 

Jan.  2,  1929 — I  sowed  j  our  Earliana  last  year  and  it  was  the 
best  I  have  ever  obtained,  and  I  raise  several  thousand  boxes 
each  year. 

OHIO  — 

Jan.  26,  1929 — Have  been  using  your  seed  for  several  years 
and  there  is  none  better. 


NORTH  CAROLINA— 


Dec.  31,  1928 — Your  Earliana  tomato  is  by  all  odds  the  best 
early  variety  I  have  ever  tried. 


A  Fine  Type  of  Extra  Early  Fruit 
ADIRONDACK  EARLIANA 


[  Page  Five  ] 


BONNY  BEST  (L angdon  Strain ) 

(126  days,  red) 

Germination  Tests  88-98% 

The  improvement  shown  by  this  strain  the  past  few 
years  has  been  a  source  of  much  satisfaction  to  us,  as  well 
as  of  profit  to  our  customers. 

It  has  gained  in  earliness,  yet  retained  its  heavy  yield. 
More— it  has  increased  in  yield.  Several  tests  alongside 
other  strains  have  given  it  first  place  in  earliness,  and  usual¬ 
ly  first  place  in  total  crop  as  well.  That  means  something, 
for  Bonny  Best  has  always  been  early  enough  for  good 
money  and  noted  as  a  heavy  cropper. 

The  fruit  qualities  are  fine.  It  picks  uniformly  a  good 
packing  size,  a  little  larger  than  Bonny  Best  used  to  be.  The 
old  tendency  toward  cracking  of  the  skin  has  largely  been 
overcome.  Smooth,  round,  well  colored,  firm — it  is  in  every 
way  an  excellent  packing  tomato. 

Unless  you  are  seriously  troubled  by  wilt  you  can  use 
this  strain  of  Bonny  Best  for  second  early  with  every  con¬ 
fidence.  It  is  just  naturally  the  best. 

If  you  have  extra  early  soil  give  this  strain  a  trial  as 
first  early.  It  will  ripen  a  little  behind  the  Adirondack 
Earliana,  but  the  heavier  yield  may  more  than  make  up.  If 
you  have  a  piece  of  ground  that  is  especially  fertile,  yet 
early  and  warm,  try  a  few  extra  early  plants  pruned  to  one 
stem  and  staked.  Pruning  will  hasten  maturity  by  several 
days,  on  rich  soil;  you  may  want  to  go  into  it  on  a  larger 
scale  another  year.  Many  growers  are  finding  it  profitable. 

For  canning  crop  the  Bonny  Best  has  been  very  popular. 
It  is  now  being  challenged  by  the  Marglobe,  however,  even 
where  wilt  resistance  need  not  be  considered.  The  Mar- 
globe,  a  little  later  in  maturing,  may  produce  a  slightly 
heavier  crop.  It  will  require  several  extra  pickings  for  the 
same  bulk,  though,  for  its  ripening  is  delayed  over  quite  a 
long  picking  season. 

Marglobe  has  been  advised  to  replace  Bonny  Best  for 
greenhouse  work.  Where  wilt  is  a  factor  Marglobe,  being 
resistant,  probably  is  better.  If  wilt  is  not  troublesome 
Marglobe  cannot,  in  our  opinion,  compete  with  this  strain 
of  Bonny  Best  in  the  greenhouse. 


[  Page  Six  ] 


The  Best  Second  Early 
BONNY  BEST  (Langdon  Strain) 


MASSACHUSETTS  — 

Jan.  31,  1929 — Have  used  your  seed  for  fifteen  years  and 
think  it  the  best  I  can  buy. 

LOUISIANA— 

Jan.  7,  1929 — Last  year  I  grossed  $43.15  from  a  plot  six  feet 
wide  and  seventy-two  feet  long. 

IOWA— 

Jan.  19,  1929 — For  our  greenhouse  crop  we  want  the  very 
best  obtainable  at  any  price,  for  as  you  know  cost  of  seed  means 
nothing  in  comparison  to  loss  of  crop.  I  have  been  buying  your 
seed  for  three  years  and  never  saw  anything  to  equal  it. 

MASSACHUSETTS  — 

Jan.  20,  1929 — Beally  could  not  buy  elsewhere  if  I  w7anted  to 
as  everyone  says,  “I  want  the  same  kind  of  tomatoes  you  sold 
me  last  year.”  Germination  last  year  was  great. 

NORTH  CAROLINA— 

Jan.  18,  1929 — I  have  tried  your  seed  in  the  past,  and  in  all 
my  thirty-five  years  gardening  I  have  concluded  they  are  superior 
to  anything  I  have  ever  grown. 


[  Page  Seven-  ] 


REDHEAD 

(126  days,  red) 

Germination  Tests  88% 

An  interesting  development  of  this  variety  was  shown 
in  the  trial  plots  of  1926.  A  plot  from  seed  of  1923,  of  strong 
germination,  had  been  included  for  comparison.  The  plots 
from  later  seed  were  surprisingly  better — they  were  one 
week  earlier;  equally  vigorous,  yet  with  a  more  compact, 
less-sprawling  growth;  more  prolific.  It  is  seldom  that  such 
a  change  can  be  noted  in  three  years  time. 

Improvement  since  then  has  been  more  gradual,  as  with 
the  other  varieties;  however,  Redhead  is  pretty  well  up  to 
Bonny  Best  in  value  for  second  early.  These  two  varieties 
are  much  alike,  any  preference  is  largely  a  personal  one. 
We  like  Bonny  Best.  How  ever,  both  are  immensely  popular 
- — and  worthy  of  it. 

BAER 

(128  days,  red) 

Germination  Tests  96% 

A  good  choice  on  dry,  light  soils,  as  it  will  set  less  fruit 
hut  mature  them  larger  than  Redhead  or  Bonny  Best  will  do 
there.  It  is  a  thoroughly  dependable  variety,  but  a  couple 
of  days  later  in  ripening  and  possibly  not  quite  so  produc¬ 
tive  as  Bonny  Best  on  the  better  soils. 

JEWEL,  STONE  and  RED  ROCK 

(132-135-140  days,  red) 

These  midseason  varieties  are  well  known  and  regularly 
used  by  many  of  our  customers.  We  are  very  sorry  to  say 
that,  due  to  early  fall  freezes,  we  could  secure  only  enough 
of  these  varieties  for  our  stock  planting  next  year. 

For  convenience  of  you  who  have  been  using  Jewel  and 
Stone,  we  are  buying  some  of  the  best  stock  we  can  buy, 
listing  it  of  course  at  the  market  price.  We  believe  that, 
under  the  circumstances,  it  is  as  good  as  you  can  get. 

Red  Rock,  however,  is  another  matter.  This  variety  has 
not  had  the  attention  by  seedsmen  which  it  deserves ;  we  are 
doubtful  whether  we  could  buy  seed  on  the  market  which 
would  compete  with  an  improved  strain  of  Marglobe.  For 
this  year,  therefore,  we  are  offering  only  Marglobe  for  late 
midseason  and  fall  use. 


[  Page  Eight  ] 


Resistant  to  Wilt  and  Nailhead  Rust 


MARGLOBE 

(142  days,  red) 

Germination  Tests  8k% 

This  introduction  by  Mr.  F.  J.  Pritchard,  of  the  Bureau 
of  Plant  Industry  at  Washington,  has  attracted  much  atten¬ 
tion  from  all  over  the  country. 

It  is  a  midseason  variety  of  strong,  though  not  excessive, 
vine  growth,  and  matures  a  heavy  crop.  The  fruit  is  dis¬ 
tinctly  globe  shaped  and  a  very  attractive  red  in  color. 
There  is  no  depression  at  the  stem  end,  no  hard  rind,  and 
very  little  tendency  toward  cracking.  It  is  an  excellent 
shipper;  its  splendid  table  quality  also  commends  it. 

Marglobe  is  strongly  resistant  to  Fusarium  Wilt  and  to 
Nailhead  Rust,  two  of  the  worst  diseases  which  a  tomato 
grower  must  combat.  In  the  areas  subject  to  infection  they 
can  be  controlled  only  by  the  planting  of  resistant  varieties. 
And  the  welcome  given  Marglobe — Florida  changed  over 
half  her  planting  from  Globe  to  Marglobe  in  two  years  time, 
wilt  infected  areas  everywhere  are  turning  to  it  more  and 
more — such  a  welcome  labels  this  as  one  of  the  most  im¬ 
portant  introductions  yet  given  the  tomato  grower. 


[  Page  Nine.] 


Price  of  Langdon’s  Twenty  dour  Year  Selection 
and  Line  Bred 


No.  1 — Run  of  the  field.  Vl  Oz.,  25c;  Vz  Oz.,  40c;  1  Oz.,  60c;  2  Oz., 
$1.20;  4  Ox.,  $2.00;  8  Oz.,  $3.60;  1  pound,  $6.40. 

No.  2 — Double  selection,  by  vine  and  fruit.  Vs  Oz.,  30c;  Vl  Oz.,  50c; 
V2  Oz.,  75c.  Less  than  one-half  pound,  $1.25  per  Oz.;  V2  pound,  $9.50; 
one  pound,  $18.00. 

No.  3 — Triple  selection,  by  vine,  fruit  and  interior.  Our  best.  Vs  Oz., 
$1.00;  Vl  Oz.,  $2.00;  V2  Oz.,  $3.00;  1  Oz.,  $5.00;  4  Oz.,  $18.00.  No  dis¬ 
count  for  less  than  four  ounces. 


Particular  care  is  given  the  selection  of  this  No.  3  Ear  li¬ 
ana.  Earliness  is  of  prime  importance.  Productiveness 
and  vigor  are  essential.  The  quality  of  the  fruit  must  have 
rigid  inspection.  After  the  selection  of  plant  and  fruit 
by  outward  appearance  each  fruit  is  cut  individually,  by 
hand,  for  inspection  of  the  interior  construction.  A  good 
market  tomato  will  have  few  seeds  and  small  cells,  thick 
walls,  no  green  or  pithy  core,  will  be  well  colored.  Only 
those  fruits  showing  a  high  standard  of  perfection  in  this, 
as  well  as  in  plant  type,  are  used  in  the  selection  of  this  No. 
3  Earliana. 

The  location  at  which  this  seed  is  grown  is  worthy  of 
consideration.  We  are  north  of  the  Adirondacks,  four 
miles  from  the  Canadian  Line,  with  a  growing  season  of 
only  about  three  months  and  a  half  free  from  frost,  with 
generally  cool  days  and  many  cold  nights.  This  has  with¬ 
out  doubt  been  a  factor  in  the  improvement  of  these  strains. 


OUR  WARRANTY  i"  Z'tfZi 

tested  and  proven  to  be  of  good  germination.  We  will  replace 
free  of  charge  any  seed  which  does  not  germinate  under  favorable 
conditions,  providing  our  stock  has  not  been  sold  out.  Naturally, 
we  can  go  no  further  than  this  in  guaranteeing  your  success. 


[  Page  Ten  ] 


LATER  VARIETIES 


%  oz. 

V2  OZ. 

1  oz. 

2  oz. 

4  oz. 

8  oz. 

BONNY  BEST,  Langdon 

strain 

(extra  selected). . 

$1.00 

$1.50 

$2.50 

$4.50 

$8.00 

$14.00 

BONNY  BEST,  Langdon 

strain 

(selected)  . 

.50 

.75 

1.25 

2.25 

4.00 

7.00 

REDHEAD  (selected)  .  . 

.50 

.75 

1.25 

2.25 

4.00 

7.00 

BAER  (selected)  . 

.50 

.75 

1.25 

2.25 

4.00 

7.00 

MARGLOBE  (selected)  . 

.50 

.75 

1.25 

2.25 

4.00 

7.00 

STONE  . 

.20 

.30 

.50 

.90 

1.50 

2.75 

JEWEL  . 

.20 

.30 

.50 

.90 

1.50 

2.75 

All  Fruit  for  No.  3  Seed  Is  Hand  Cut  for  Inspection 
ADIRONDACK  EARLIANA 

[  Page  Eleven  ] 


“An  Economical  Fire-heated  Hotbed” . Circular  No.  65 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  A  &  M  College,  Miss. 

“Hotbeds”  . Bulletin  No.  45 

Extension  Service,  Conn.  Agri.  College,  Storrs,  Conn. 

“Coldframes” . Bulletin  No.  46 

Extension  Service,  Conn.  Agri.  College,  Storrs,  Conn. 

“Early  Tomato  Growing  in  New  Jersey” . Circular  No.  103 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  New  Brunswick,  N.  J. 

“Tomato  Diseases” . Bulletin  No.  51 

Dominion  of  Canada,  Department  of  Agriculture,  Ottawa,  Canada 

“Tomato  Wilt  Investigations” . Technical  Bulletin  20 

Agricultural  Exp.  Station,  Manhattan,  Kan. 

“Effect  of  Phosphorus  upon  the  Yield  and  Time  of  Maturity  of 

Tomato” . Technical  Bulletin  28 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Durham,  N.  H. 

“Growing  Tomatoes  for  the  Canning  Factory” . Bulletin  No.  96 

Extension  Service,  College  of  Agri.,  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

“Tomatoes  As  a  Truck  Crop” . Farmers  Bulletin  No.  1338 

Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  Washington,  D.  C. 

“Some  Experiments  with  Tomatoes” . Bulletin  No.  218 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Lexington,  Ky. 

“Preparation  of  Fresh  Tomatoes  for  Market”.  .Farmers  Bulletin  No.  1291 
Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  Washington,  D.  C. 

“Tomato  Leaf  Spot,  and  Experiments  with  Its  Control”.  .Bulletin  No.  177 
Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  State  College,  Pa. 

“Tomato  Mosaic”  . Bulletin  No.  261 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Lafayette,  Ind. 

“Experiments  in  Spraying  and  Dusting  Tomatoes”. ...  Bulletin  No.  230 
Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Blacksburg,  Va. 

“Tomato  Diseases  in  Florida”..... . Bulletin  No.  185 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Gainesville,  Fla. 

“Tomato  Seed  Selection”. . . .Bulletin  No.  173 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Bozeman,  Mont. 

“Selecting  and  Saving  Tomato  Seed” . Bulletin  No.  250 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Lafayette,  Ind. 

“Greenhouse  Tomatoes” . Farmers  Bulletin  No.  1431 

Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  Washington,  D.  C. 

“The  Pennsylvania  Forcing  Industry” . General  Bulletin  No.  396 

Penn.  Dept,  of  Agriculture,  Harrisburg,  Pa. 

“Economic  Results  in  the  Pollination  of  Greenhouse  Tomatoes” 

. . Bulletin  No.  55 

Agricultural  Exper.  Station,  Corvallis,  Ore. 

These  up-to-date  bulletins,  issued  free  by  the  stations, 
cover  nearly  every  phase  of  tomato  growing.  Give  them  a 
trial  on  your  present  problems,  and  file  the  list  for  future 
reference. 


[  Page  Twelve  ] 


One  of  the  questions  about  tomatoes  most  frequently 
asked  by  you  folks  is,  “How  can  I  get  ’em  earlier?”  And 
that  question  is  just  as  hard  to  answer  as  it  is  important. 
To  say  that  one  should  set  stocky  plants  early  as  possible 
into  warm,  fertile  soil  doesn’t  go  very  far. 

“Blocking”  of  the  plants  in  the  coldframe  is  a  practice 
not  so  generally  known  and  used  by  growers  over  the  coun¬ 
try  as  it  should  be.  It  has  many  of  the  advantages  of  bands 
or  pots,  is  easier,  cheaper,  and  if  properly  done  has  some 
advantages  all  its  own. 

The  coldframes  are  smoothed  out  to  a  uniform  depth  of 
five  inches  below  the  soil  level,  and  then  about  two  and  one- 
half  inches  of  finely  composted  manure  (no  fresh  manure) 
leveled  carefully  over  the  bed  and  watered  down.  This  is 
covered  with  about  the  same  depth  of  sandy  compost  or 
rich  sandy  loam. 

Plants  are  transplanted  to  these  beds  about  a  month  be¬ 
fore  time  for  field  setting,  giving  them  four  or  five  inches 
spacing  each  way.  A  spotting  board  is  used  for  convenience 
and  to  insure  even  spacing  and  straight  rows.  Ten  days  or 
two  weeks  before  the  plants  are  to  go  to  the  field,  they  are 
ready  to  be  “Blocked”  which  consists  of  cutting  down  be¬ 
tween  each  row  of  plants  so  that  every  plant  stands  in  its 
own  four  or  five  inch  cube  of  soil  and  compost.  To  avoid 
wilting  or  shock,  the  rows  are  usually  cut  in  one  direction 
and  then,  in  a  couple  of  days,  cut  the  other  way.  A  wide 
bladed  hoe  with  the  shank  straightened  out  makes  a  con¬ 
venient  tool  for  this  work.  After  cutting,  the  beds  are  well 
wet  down  so  that  the  crevice  between  each  block  is  filled 
with  sand  and  so  that  the  plants  receive  no  setback. 

The  first  beneficial  effect  to  be  noticed  is  a  check  in  the 
tendency  of  plants  at  this  time  toward  excessive  top  growth. 
The  plants  are  making  growth,  but  they  are  putting  it  into  a 
new  fibrous  root  system.  Every  root  tipped  by  blocking 
immediately  branches,  so  that  the  block  is  soon  filled  with 
fine  roots.  When  the  plants  go  to  the  field,  each  one  sepa¬ 
rates  readily  from  its  neighbor,  and  each  has  a  large  undis¬ 
turbed  root  system  in  a  solid  block  of  rich  compost.  These 
roots,  unlike  the  condition  where  they  have  run  round  and 
round  the  inside  of  a  pot,  are  keenly  alive  and  growing. 


[  Page  Thirteex  ] 


Where  top  pruning  is  practised,  it  usually  consists  of 
pinching  out  all  side  branches,  leaving  one  main  stem  which 
is  tied  at  intervals  to  a  stake  set  close  beside  each  plant. 
Careful  observation  will  show  that  a  shoot  or  branch  will 
start  from  the  base  of  nearly  every  leaf  stalk  and  later  on 
from  the  base  of  the  plant;  these  are  pinched  out  as  they 
appear  so  that  no  vitality  is  wasted  through  unnecessary 
growth  and  subsequent  heavy  cutting.  The  fruit  clusters 
appear  at  short  intervals  the  whole  length  of  the  stalk,  on 
the  opposite  side  from  the  leaf  stems  and  branches,  and  are 
readily  distinguished. 

A  practice  of  “leaf  pruning”  of  younger  plants  is  fol¬ 
lowed  by  some  growers  which  is  in  direct  contrast  to  the 
single  stem  method.  It  consists  of  cutting  off  the  tips  of  all 
the  leaves,  about  a  week  before  the  plants  are  set  in  the 
field;  after  which  the  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  in  the 
usual  manner.  Two  advantages  are  claimed.  One  is  that 
excessive  top  growth  is  checked  and  the  stems  and  leaves 
hardened  by  the  exposure  to  light.  The  other  is  that  the 
growth  of  branches  is  stimulated,  with  consequent  early 
setting  of  a  large  number  of  fruit  clusters. 

A  third  practice  is  that  of  pinching  out  the  tip  of  the 
plants  just  before  the  first  buds  appear,  so  that  the  side 
branches  will  start  earlier.  Advocates  of  this  method  claim 
that,  although  the  crown  cluster  of  fruit  is  lost,  each  one  of 
the  side  branches  will  bear  a  cluster  just  about  as  early. 

These  three  outlines  are  given,  not  as  recommendations 
for  general  field  use,  but  because  most  growers  like  to  ex¬ 
periment  and  see  for  themselves.  The  field  pruning  is  an 
expensive  proposition,  nevertheless  some  growers  on  rich 
soil  make  money  at  it.  The  second  plan  especially  has  the 
serious  possibility  of  widespread  infection  of  disease. 
Where  no  disease  is  present,  however,  and  where  the  plants 
simply  wont  stand  any  longer  and  can’t  be  moved  to  the 
field,  it  is  sometimes  the  best  way  out.  As  to  pinching  out 
the  tip  of  the  plant,  it  also  is  liable  to  spread  disease,  and 
we  do  hate  to  see  that  crown  cluster  lost.  However,  some 
growers  find  it  a  good  idea. 

Personally,  we  are  inclined  to  think  that  for  most  condi¬ 
tions,  top  pruning  of  any  kind  isn’t  so  important  as  gener¬ 
ous  spacing  in  the  plant  beds.  With  plenty  of  room  right 
from  the  start  a  plant  will  be  short  and  stocky,  well  rooted, 
vigorous  enough  for  an  early  and  a  heavy  crop. 


[  Page  Fourteen  ] 


CORRECT  system  of  fertilizing 
has  a  good  deal  to  do  with  early 
maturity,  as  well  as  with  total 
yields.  Several  experiment  sta¬ 
tion  tests  have  seemed  to  indicate 
that  large  amounts  of  potash  are 
not  needed  by  tomatoes,  in  fact  a 
decrease  in  yield  and  a  delay  in 
maturity  was  often  caused  by 
heavy  applications.  We  may  as¬ 
sume,  then,  that  ordinary  applica¬ 
tions  of  mixed  fertilizer  rather  low  in 
potash  will  take  care  of  that  element. 
Nitrogen  is  the  element  which  pro¬ 
motes  a  heavy  growth  of  vines.  It  is  very 
important  for  a  quick,  strong  growth  and  a  heavy  set  of 
fruit.  On  the  other  hand,  an  over  supply  will  result  in 
dense  growth  of  vine  at  the  expense  of  fruit  and  will  delay 
maturity.  This  is  not  common  on  soils  adapted  to  early 
crops,  however.  We  can  usually  be  quite  generous  with 
nitrogen  to  good  advantage,  except  on  soil  where  the  growth 
of  vines  is  naturally  strong. 

It  has  been  demonstrated  that  phosphorus  does  have  a 
definite  effect  in  hastening  the  maturity  of  the  tomato.  This 
effect  seems  not  so  much  gained  by  shortening  the  period 
between  blossom  and  ripe  fruit  as  by  the  promotion  of  rapid 
early  growth,  so  that  a  large  number  of  blossoms  and  fruit 
are  produced  early.  Very  many  soils  are  low  in  phosphorus. 

In  the  absence  of  definite,  practical  information  as  re¬ 
gards  one’s  own  piece  of  ground,  it  is  generally  considered 
that  1000  pounds  to  the  acre  of  5-10-5  fertilizer  should  give 
good  results.  Less  nitrogen  may  do  on  some  rich  soils, 
especially  if  much  manure  is  used;  more  phosphorus  in  the 
shape  of  acid  phosphate  may  prove  to  be  profitable. 

Most  seed  and  plant  beds  have  sufficient  nitrogen  for 
best  results,  through  the  use  of  composted  manure.  In  fact, 
fresh  manure  must  be  carefully  avoided  because  the  nitro¬ 
gen  in  it  will  cause  too  rapid,  soft  growth.  It  does  seem, 
though,  that  all  plant  beds  should  have  a  reasonable  appli¬ 
cation  of  acid  phosphate.  One  pound  to  twenty-five  square 


[  Page  Fifteen  ] 


feet  of  bed  space  should  be  sufficient.  Though  not  strictly 
a  fertilizer,  ground  limestone  should  also  be  considered 
here  in  connection  with  seed  beds.  Its  regular  use  improves 
growing  conditions,  both  in  regard  to  the  physical  condition 
of  the  soil  and  in  control  of  damping  off  of  seedlings.  One 
pound  of  ground  limestone  to  eight  or  ten  square  feet  of 
bed  is  a  good  application. 

Nitrate  of  soda  may  be  used  to  very  good  advantage  at 
field  setting  time.  The  plants  are,  of  course,  thoroughly 
wet  down  the  evening  before  taking  up.  This  watering 
tends  to  dilute  the  food  supply  in  both  soil  and  plant  tissues, 
just  when  food  is  most  needed.  An  application  of  dry 
nitrate  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to  seventy-five  square  feet, 
scattered  evenly  over  the  bed  just  before  watering  and  while 
the  foliage  is  dry,  is  quickly  dissolved  by  the  water  and 
taken  up  by  the  plant.  This  gives  it  a  strong  reserve  of  food 
to  carry  over  the  difficult  time  of  transplanting. 

Where  water  is  used  in  field  setting,  the  addition  of  one 
pound  of  nitrate  to  twenty-five  gallons  of  water  used  is  de¬ 
cidedly  good  practice.  For  convenience,  the  nitrate  is  first 
dissolved  in  hot  water  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to  the  quart  ; 
then  a  quart  of  this  solution  is  added  to  every  twenty-five 
gallons  used  and  stirred  just  a  little  to  insure  mixing.  To¬ 
matoes  thrive  on  this.  If  used  with  other  crops,  though, 
test  it  out  on  a  few  plants  first.  Cauliflower,  for  instance, 
find  it  a  little  too  strong  for  best  results. 

A  few  memoranda:  Seed  required,  one  or  one  and  a  quar¬ 
ter  ounces  to  the  acre.  Depth  of  sowing,  %  inch.  Cover  bed 
with  newspapers.  Temperature  70-75  while  germinating,  60 
while  breaking  ground,  then  65-70  day,  55  night.  Water 
sparingly  as  plants  get  older;  make  roots  look  for  it.  Avoid 
chilling  with  ice  cold  water.  Spray  with  Pyrox  before  set¬ 
ting  in  the  field.  Have  cutworm  bait  ready.  Set  plants  deep; 
cultivate  soon.  Late  cultivations,  very  shallow. 


Remember,  whether  it’s  a  report  of  last  year’s  results, 
questions,  some  new  idea  worked  out  which  you  are  willing 
to  share,  or  just  to  say  “hello”,  a  letter  from  you  is  always 
interesting  and  welcome.  We’ll  be  looking  forward  to  it. 

Sincerely  yours, 

November,  1929.  H.  P.  LANGDON  &  SON. 


[  Page  Sixteen  ] 


“Not  What  it  Costs 
What  it  Does”