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Full text of "Greenhouse gossip. Vol. 1, No. 2, April 1942 / Fight Floral Co., Inc."

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Historic, Archive Document 


Do not assume content reflects current 
scientific knowledge, policies, or practices. 





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Vol. 
No. 


FIGHT FLORAL CO., 
22'W. 26th Street, New vark Nosy: 


APRIL 
1942 


Inc. 








**An Ounce of Prevention” 


You surely have heard that old “saw” 
many times before, but this is really the time 
to take heed. There is no question about the 
eventual scarcity of insecticides and fungi- 
cides. Some are no longer being made now, 
others are in the questionable group. And 
you can’t stock up for a long period, 
ticularly with ma- 
terials containing 
pyrethrum and ro- 
tenone. Hence, let 
us consider the 
means of preven- 
tion. This will save 


par- 


much time and 
spray materials 
later. 


The place to make 
a start is with the 
seedling or cutting. 
First of all, steam 
sterilization of soil 
or propagating sand 
is necessary, but re- 
member that no 
matter how stevie 
the sand or soil is 
after you have 
steamed it (and 
steam incidentally will surely not be on the 
priority list, unless coal or other fuel becomes 
so, and then it won’t matter anyway), it can 
become readily reinfected by the many fungus 
spores which float about in the air, become 
secreted in crevices, under benches, sash bars, 
etc. So why not dust your propagating house 
thoroughly with fine sulphur or spray with 
sulphur (Fungisul is one of the best). Pick 
out a sunny day and blow away with all your 
might at the bars, the benches, under benches 
(or. spray). It costs little, hurts no plants, 
and will pay dividends in higher germination, 
better rooting, and much less rotting. In 
addition apply potassium permanganate to 
your sand (4 oz. to a gallon of water). ‘This 





will disinfect your sand and provide a cover- 
ing on which the spores are not so likely to 
germinate. 

Secondly, be sure that your propagating 
benches are thoroughly sterilized. Smearing 
with whitewash alone does not do it—neat 
looking as it might be. The cuttings you 
put in “should be free of insects and disease. 
Simple examples are midge on mum cuttings, 
red spider on roses, 
mealy bugs on gar- 
denias, and thrip on 
innumerable types. 
Cankered gardenias, 
geraniums with 
black leg, roses with 
canker, carnations 
with rust, mums 
with verticillium 
have no place in the 
propagating bench. 
You really will be 
pleasantly surprised 
at the after-effects. 
If added to this you 
take similar care 
of your growing 
houses, if you dust 
and spray before 
benching a crop, if 
you remove weeds 
and rubbish from underneath, if you keep 
the weeds down on the outside, if you re- 
move and burn all diseased plants, if you do 
all this and more, you will be surprised all 
the more. Your bills for insecticides and fun- 
gicides will decrease, and furthermore in times 
of scarcity of these materials you will still 
be able to grow good crops. Perhaps even 
better than ever, for no matter how harmless 
the spray or dust is, if it can be done without, 
the plant will be happier, your labor cost will 
be lower, and your nightmares of bugs will be 
reduced to the minimum. (Potassium perman- 
ganate, sulphur dusts, arsenical dusts, coppers 
and similar materials keep their strength for 
long periods and may be_ stocked safely.) 


Ty: 


Lie x AN RY 


iV iCD 


* 


Department of Agriculture 








Gardens—Always 


At the March meeting of the New York 
Florist Club, the members had the pleasure 
of listening to that eminent author and public 
speaker, Mr. Richardson Wright, the editor 
of House and Garden magazine. 

In his interesting talk, he described how 
flower gardens have persisted through the 
ages. 

In 1633, when the Huguenots were per- 
secuted and driven from France, they came 
to England to establish themselves in new 
ways of life. Though surrounded by hard- 
ships in such circumstances, they did not over- 
look establishing their small flower gardens. 

In our own United States during the dif- 
ficult years of Andrew Jackson’s administra- 
tion in the year 1829, one of our first large 
flower shows was being inaugurated. 

More recently, in these times of stress, 
we have witnessed the gathering of some of 
our most prominent people connected with 
Horticulture and Floriculture in Washington 
at the call of our Secretary of Agriculture, 
the Honorable Claude R. Wickard. Plans 
were formulated for the establishing of 
‘Defense Gardens.” These Defense Gardens 
are to be flower gardens as well as vegetable 
gardens, which shows that there always will 
be gardens and the members of our industry 
must feel that they play an important part 
in the present struggle. 


Easter Calendar 


It is interesting to look up and down the 
chart to see how the dates of Easter Sunday 
vary over a period of 50 years. 

Several years ago we printed attractively 
a list of the dates of Easter Sunday for 50 
years. It is convenient for tacking up in 
your greenhouse shed or office. If you would 
like to have one of these calendars, drop us 
a line. 


Funny Names 


Baby Toes Emerald Idol 
Bunny Ears Boxing Glove 
Irish Mittens Lion’s Tongue 


Odd names, perhaps, but in our florist busi- 
ness we know them as the popular names for 
succulents. As you know the above are va- 
rieties of Opuntia and Sedum. We sell lots 
of them! Many of our customers find it 


profitable to get these succulents and have 
one of the men in their spare time make up 
some dishes or terrariums, thus giving them 
an outlet for some of their artistic skill. 

If this interests you, we have a_ special 
list covering the most suitable items for this 
purpose. 


The Story of Water 


You know, of course that the plant is full 
of water. If inadequate, it shrivels, becomes 
stunted, and develops stems and leaves like 
acactus. Knowing this, you supply that water 
to the roots and spray the tops of plants to 
reduce the amount given off from the leaves. 
But the roots won’t take that water unless 
air is present. That air is needed to make 
root hairs which absorb the water. So that’s 
tied up with good soil structure and proper 
drainage. Be sure of that. Don’t use soil 
that holds too much moisture and be certain 
that all surplus water runs off. Pot drainage, 
bench drainage, are essentials. Watch out 
for them. 

The water in the air—humidity, is like- 
wise important. The cells in the plant will 
not get larger unless humidity is high. This 
reduces the amount of water lost and permits 
the cells to stretch. That is why you get 
longer stretches on roses grown at proper 
humidity; that is why gardenia flowers are 
larger when grown in a moist atmosphere; 
that is why cineraria leaves are of greater 
size; why the atmosphere is not too dry. Do 
you attempt to supply such humidity? Do 
you have any system besides overhead sprin- 
kling, which is time consuming and not con- 
stant enough? Skinner nozzles, Paradise noz- 
zles, and lately the Binks system as devel- 
oped by Ohio State University, are all helpful 
and should at least be looked into. 


There are plants on the other hand which 
will stretch their stems without too much 
constant moisture at the roots or in the air. 
Look at carnations, for example. If the soil 
is kept too wet and not allowed to dry before 
watering, loss of roots will result and poor 
stems. The same is true of snapdragons. 


Hence the story of water is one of under- 
standing of what it does and the knowledge 
of habits of plants which you grow. If you 
are interested further, drop us a line and 
we ll go into greater details at a future date. 
Incidentally, why nol let us know if these dis- 
cussions interest you ? 


Flappers 


A number of years ago this was a popular 
nickname for the girls who rolled their stock- 
ings. 

F. R. Pierson, the well-known rose grower, 
who passed away several years ago, referred 
to some of his 6-year-old rose plants of the 
variety America, as “‘flappers’” when they lost 
their foliage and the long stems looked like 
bare knees. 

If your Pornsrrrras at Xmas time begin 
to lose their foliage, a handy item for fillers 
are TABLE Ferns. We have a good stock of 
fern seedlings each summer and they will not 
be too plentiful this year. Order them now! 
All the good Pteris varieties and some of the 
Holly variety are available. 


Poinsettia Stock Plants 


These will arrive immediately after Easter. 
But don’t let the plants lie around for several 
days before potting. Do so at once, using 
a rather poor soil but with plenty of humus 
in it. That is a rule that if followed generally 
will result satisfactorily. No plant in a dor- 
mant state or when young requires high amounts 
of fertilizer in the soil. The roots develop 
with the presence of moisture and heat, but 
no plant food is really needed until the leaves 
begin to grow. Then gradually the richness 
of the soil may be increased. Hence, if you 
use well rotted manure in your poor soil, it 
will begin to give off some of its value as the 
plant needs it. The same is true of bone meal 
or even tankage. Later when tops grow, 
fertilizers will be added to the soil and in- 
cidentally, poinsettia stock plants will take 
them plenty, especially nitrogen. These fer- 
tilizers then should be supplemented with 
manure mulches to keep the soil from drying 
out. Enough for the present—propagation 
will come later. 


Tartar Emetic 


No question about this being a good spray 
for thrip on most crops. If you have a supply 
of this material but cannot get sugar, sub- 
stitute honey or molasses in the same pro- 
portion: 1-2 lbs. of tartar emetic, 3-4 lbs of 
sweetening, 100 gals. of water. 


Hardy Perennials 


As a sideline, hardy perennial plants are 
worth growing. They should be started soon, 
erown on in frames during the summer, fall, 


and part winter, and then forced in the spring 
for quick sale as small flowering plants ready 
to set out in the garden. The cost of growing 
these is low and these days that’s a consid- 
eration.. Among the better additions to this 
group of plants this year are: Royal Red 
Buddleia, several hardy asters, a besutiful 
blue Campanula, a brilliant pink Eupatorium, 
a pink forget-me-not which grows from eight 
to ten inches high and blooms from June to 
September, a violet-colored primula and a 
new blue one. This blue primula is really an 
accomplishment after many years of waiting 
and should command a ready demand. For 
more detailed descriptions, ask us for a list. 





Hydrangeas 


The hydrangeas this year have been well 
timed and of good quality. They were par- 
ticularly important because of the shortage 
of lilies and undoubtedly will remain quite 
as important during the next year. The de- 
mand for plants these days is for popular- 
priced kinds and the hydrangea answers that 
purpose well. It is profitable to grow, sells 
well and looks substantial. We can furnish 
you some well rooted cuttings or else 214 
inch plants, now or later. The treatment of 
these cuttings is simple. Upon arrival, pot 
in a soil which contains about one-third acid 
peat so that it retains moisture well and stays 
acid. Shade for a few days and then grow 
on in 60 deg. If gotten soon, one pinch will 
be needed before planting out-doors. Like- 
wise it will be necessary to shift into threes 
or fours while in the greenhouse. Two methods 
are used—growing directly in the field or in 
pots plunged in the field or frame. The field 
method produces larger canes but in careless 
hands may cause difficulties in later forcing. 
If your water is not too alkaline and you have 
proper facilities for irrigation, then plunging 
of pots in beds, especially under lath, is an 
excellent method (by using lath you speed up 
bud breaking after your 
July pinch). Incidently, 
don’t plan to set the 
plants out before late 
May, when all danger 
of frost is over. 

Just a tip—if you 
srow in pots before 
plunging, make a cone- 
shaped hole with a 
stick, so that the bot- 
tom of the pot has an 
air cushion under. This 
will promote better 
rooting and keep worms 
out. 








Hydrangea—Rooted Cutting Hydrangea After Potting 


HYDRANGEAS 
New Hydrangeas for 1942 


*MERRITT’S BEAUTY (Patented). An *NORWOOD (Robert Craig Introduction) (Noé 


early flowering, dark carmine red. This is a patented). A sport of Gertrude Glahn. An un- 
real fine Hydrangea, well liked by those who usually strong grower and the natural color is 
have seen it. bright pink. Can be treated for blue. Produces 
Rooted Cuttings. $4.00 per doz., $20.00 per 100 large heads of good texture and keeping qualities. 
2 in. _pots........$6.00 per doz., $30.00 per 100 214 in. pots. .$30.00 per 100, $250.00 per 1000 
Last Year (1941) Introductions 

*Helen Merritt. H. Patented. Forschritt. EH. Red. Signy Hartmann. H#. Dark 
Deep rose. _ Gus. Pink. pink. 

Apollo. EH. Glowing ruby red. Holstein. Pink. Sonnengruss. FE. Rose. 

Aukamm. M™. Rose pink. Mme. Cayeux. Light pink. *Strafford. Patented. Deep, 

Carmen. Lovely copper red. Meteor. H#. Brilliant red. glowing pink. | 

Daphne. £. Brilliant hghtred. Miss Belgium. Pink. Wesphalen. #. Clear dark red. 

*Elbe. EH. Pink. Regula. EH. White. Wiesbaden. £. Rose pink. 


All above: Rooted Cuttings, $15.00 per 100; 2 in. pots, $20.00 per 100. 





BETTER VARIETIES STANDARD VARIETIES STANDARD VARIETIES 
Altoona. EH. Clear pink. Deutschland. Z. Salmon pink. Ami Pasquaar. EH. Red. 
E iat earn se E. Mouillere. £. White. ; 
uropa. 4. Sa ae pS. *Gertrude Glahn. M. Dark Gieselherr. M. Carmine red. 
Hamburg. H. Carmine. rose. Hollandia. ZL. Salmon red. 
*Kunert. MM. Rose pink. *Goliath. M. Dark rose. a4 ee 
Merveille. L. Light red. M. Baardse. EF. Salmon red. ‘0Uls Savage. L. Dark pink. 


*M. Foch. #. Deep carmine. Mein Liebling. #. Dark pink. 


“Rosabelle. L. Rose /pink. *Niedersachsen. /. Light pmk *Willkomen. £. Bright pink. 


*Sch->Perle: 17 Vink. *Otaksa. JL. Pink. 

Rooted Cuttings.$10,00 per 100 Steinmetz. #. Pink. Rooted Cuttings. .$8.00 per 100 
BaD Os aie een $15.00 per 100 Trophee. i. Red, 2-in. pots........$12.00 per 100 
Rooted Cuttings....45.00 per 100 
2-in. pots.........$8.00 per 100 


*Blues easily. H—Early; 1/—Midseason; L—Late.