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/7  a.   I 


r.     -'<  ■>  «--,.-> 


HANDBOOK    FOR    TRAVELLERS 


IN 


SPAIN. 


BY  RICHARD    FORD,   F.&A. 


Part  I. 

ANDALUCIA,  RONDA  AND  GRANADA,  MURCIA,  VALENCIA,  AND 
CATALONIA  ;   THE  PORTIONS  BEST  SUITED  FOR  THE 

INVALID-^A  WINTER  TOUR. 


QUIEN  DICE  EsPANA — DICE  TODO, 


THIRD  EDITION, 

ENTIRELY    REVISED,   WITH  GREAT  ADDITIONS. 

LONDON: 
JOHN  MUEBAT,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 

PARIS :    GALIGNANI  AND  CO. ;  AND  STASSIN  AND  XAVIER. 
GIBRALTAR:  GEORGE  ROWSWELL.— MALTA :  MUIR. 

1855. 


mi:rray'9  handbooks  mat  be  ODTAIMED  01 
Germaa!/,  Holland,  and  Belgium. 


SmUztTland. 

SCHWEtOHAUSEV-  LAUSANNE 

eBDBEHIUNA. 


.'    SOCIETE-'TIpnaHAPHTODK 


«AN  V,  HCNSTER^ 
AOQt.— HAHIETTI. 
«AH  r.  HHHBTEB. 


PETERS-   I     1ISAR0FF.-N,  LNAKOFF^  |      HOSCOIC 

loniaa  Island*.  ConttantinojiU. 


TO 

SIR    WILLIAM  EDEN,   Bart., 

THESE  PAGES  ARE  DEDICATED,  IN  REMEMBRANCE  OF  PLEASANT 

YEARS  SPENT  IN  WELL-BELOVED  SPAIN, 

BY  HIS  SINCERE  FRIEND, 

RICHARD  FORD. 


B  2 


(    4    ) 


NOTICE. 


The  Publisher  of  the  *  Handbook  for  Travellers  in  Spain  *  requests,  that 
traveliers  who  may,  in  the  use  of  the  Work,  detect  any  faults  or  omissions 
which  they  can  correct  from  personal  knowledge,  will  have  the  kindness  to 
mark  them  down  on  the  spot,  and  forward  such  notes,  favouring  him  at  the 
same  time  with  their  names — addressed  to  Mr.  Murray,  Albemarle  Street. 
They  may  be  reminded  that  by  such  communications  they  are  not  merely 
furnishing  the  means  of  improving  the  Handbook,  but  are  contributing  to 
the  benefit,  information,  and  comfort  of  future  travellers  in  regard  to  a 
country,  which  is  in  a  state  of  considerable  change  and  progress. 

*♦*  No  attention  can  be  paid  to  letters  from  innkeepers  in  praise  of  their 
own  houses ;  and  the  postage  of  them  is  so  onerous  that  they  cannot  be 
received. 

Caution  to  Travellebs.— By  a  recent  Act  of  Parliament  the  intro- 
duction into  England  of  foreign  pirated  Editions  of  the  works  of  British 
authors,  in  which  the  copyright  subsists,  is  totally  prohibited.  Travellers 
will  therefore  bear  in  mind  that  even  a  single  copy  is  contraband,  and  is 
liable  to  seizure  at  the  English  Custom-house. 

Caution  to  Innkeepers  and  others. — The  Publisher  of  the  Handbooks 
has  learned  from  various  quarters  that  a  person  or  persons  have  of  late  been 
extorting  money  from  innkeepers,  tradespeople,  artists,  and  others  on  the 
Continent,  under  pretext  of  procuring  recommendations  and  favourable 
notices  of  them  and  their  establishments  in  the  Handbooks  for  Travellers. 
The  Publisher,  therefore,  thinks  proper  to  warn  all  whom  it  may  concern, 
that  recommendations  in  the  Handbooks  are  not  to  be  obtained  by  purchase, 
and  that  the  persons  alluded  to  are  not  only  unauthorised  by  him,  but  are 
totally  unknown  to  him.  All  those,  therefore,  who  put  confidence  in  such 
promises  may  rest  assured  that  they  will  be  defVauded  of  their  money  without 
attaining  their  object. — 1855. 


(    5    ) 


PREFACE  TO  THE  THIRD  EDITION. 


The  rapid  exhaustion  of  two  large  editions  of  this  '  Handbook  for 
Spain,'  a  country  hitherto  little  known  and  less  visited,  proves  that  the 
Pyrenees  have  ceased  to  bar  out  travellers  from  England,  to  whose 
especial  nse  this  work  is  destined. 

Of  the  many  misrepresentations  regarding  the  Peninsula,  few  had 
been  previously  more  systematically  circulated,  than  the  dangers  and 
difficulties.  It  was  our  office  to  show,  that  this,  the  most  romantic  and 
XJeculiar  country  in  Europe,  might  in  reality  be  visited  throughout  its 
length  and  breadth,  with  ease  and  safety, — ^that  travelling  there  was  no 
worse  than  it  was  in  most  parts  of  the  continent  in  1814,  before  English 
example  forced  improvements.  The  greatest  desideratum  was  a  practical 
Handbook,  since  the  national  Ontas  are  scanty  and  unsatisfactory,  as 
few  Spaniards  travel  in  their  own  country,  and  fewer  travel  out  of  it ; 
thus,  with  limited  means  of  comparison,  they  cannot  appreciate  diffe- 
rences, or  know  what  are  the  wants  and  wishes  of  a  foreigner.  Ac- 
cordingly, in  their  Guides,  usages,  ceremonies,  &c.  which  are  familiar 
to  themselves  from  childhood,  are  often  passed  over  without  notice, 
although,  from  their  novelty  to  the  stranger,  they  are  exactly  what  he 
most  desires  to  have  pointed  out  and  explained.  Nay,  the  natives 
frequently  despise,  or  feel  ashamed,  from  a  sensitiveness  of  being  thought 
**  picturesque  barbarians,"  of  those  very  things  which  the  most  interest 
and  charm  the  foreigner,  for  whose  observation  they  select  the  new 
rather  than  the  old,  and  point  out  their  poor  pale  copies  of  Europe,  in  pre- 
ference to  their  own  rich  and  racy  originals.  Again,  the  oral  information 
to  be  obtained  on  the  spot  is  generally  meagre ;  as  these  incurious  semi- 
orientals  look  with  jealousy  on  the  foreigner  who  observes  or  questions, 
they  either  fence  with  him  in  their  answers,  raise  difficulties,  or,  being 
creatures  of  self-esteem  and  imagination,  magnify  or  diminish  everything 
as  best  suits  their  own  objects  and  suspicions.  The  national  expres- 
sions "  Quien  sale  f  nose  sabe,** — "  who  knows  ?  I  do  not  know,"  will 
often  be  the  prelude  to'^No  sepuedCf** — "  it  can't  be  done." 

This  Handbook  endeavours  to  show  what  might  be  known  and  what 
may  be  done  in  Spain,  with  the  least  difficulty  and  the  greatest  satis- 
faction. With  this  view,  the  different  modes  of  travelling  by  land  or 
water,  and  the  precautions  necessary  to  be  taken  to  insure  comfort  a' 


6  PREFACE  TO  THE  THIRD  EDITION, 

security,  are  first  pointed  out  in  the  Introduction.  The  Provinces  are 
then  described  one  after  another.  The  principal  lines  of  high  roads, 
cross-communications,  names  of  inns,  and  quality  of  accommodation, 
are  detailed,  and  the  best  seasons  of  the  year  for  exploring  each  route 
suggested.  Plans  of  tours  are  drawn  up,  and  the  best  lines  laid  down 
for  specific  and  specified  objects.  The  peculiarities  of  districts  and 
towns  are  noticed,  and  a  short  account  given  of  the  local  antiquities, 
religion,  art,  scenery,  and  manners.  This  work,  the  fruit  of  many 
years'  wandering  in  the  Peninsula,  is  an  humble  attempt  to  furnish  in 
the  smallest  compass,  the  greatest  quantity  of  useful  and  entertaining 
information.  Those  things  which  every  one,  when  on  the  spot,  can  see 
with  his  own  eyes,  are  seldom  described  minutely ;  stress  is  laid  upon 
what  to  observe^  leaving  it  to  the  spectator  to  draw  his  own  conclusions ; 
nor  is  everything  that  can  be  seen  set  down,  but  only  what  is  really 
worth  seeing, — ^nec  omnia  dicentur  (as  Pliny  says,  *  Nat.  Hist.,'  x.iv.  2), 
sed  maxime  insignia ;  and  how  often  does  the  wearied  traveller  rejoice 
when  no  more  is  to  be  *'  done ;"  and  how  does  he  thank  the  faithful 
pioneer,  who,  by  having  himself  toiled  to  see  some  "  local  lion,"  has 
saved  others  the  tiresome  task,  by  his  assurance  that  it  is  not  worth  the 
time  or  trouble. 

The  philosophy  of  Spain  and  Spaniards,  and  things  to  be  known, 
not  seen,  have  never  been  neglected;  therefore  dates,  names,  facts, 
and  matters  are  mentioned  by  which  local  interest  may  be  enhanced. 
Curiosity  is  awakened,  rather  than  exhausted ;  for  to  do  that  would 
require  many  more  such  volumes  as  this.  But  as  next  to  knowing  a 
thing  oneself,  is  the  knowing  where  to  find  it,  sources  of  fuller  informa- 
tion are  cited,  from  whence  this  skeleton  framework  may  be  filled 
up,  whilst  such  a  reference  to  the  best  authorities  on  nice  occasions, 
offers  a  better  guarantee  than  any  mere  unsupported  statement ;  and 
the  author  whose  object  is  tnUh,  and  whose  wish  is  to  have  his  views 
disseminated,  must  feel  much  flattered  to  find  the  good  use  his  pages 
have  been  of  to  many  authors,  gentlemen  and  ladies  too. 

In  Spain,  a  few  larger  cities  excepted,  libraries,  newspapers,  cicerones, 
and  those  resources  which  so  much  assist  the  traveller  in  other  countries 
of  Europe,  are  among  the  things  that  are  not :  therefore  the  provident 
traveller  should  carry  in  his  saddle-bags  food  both  for  mind  and  body, 
some  supply  of  what  he  can  read  and  eat,  in  this  hungry  land  of  the  un- 
informed. A  little  more  is  now  aimed  at  than  a  mere  book  of  roads,  or 
description  of  the  husk  of  the  country.  To  see  the  cities,  and  knoio  the 
minds  of  men,  has  been,  since  the  days  of  the  Odyssey,  the  object  of 
travel :  but  how  **  difiBcult  is  it,"  in  the  words  of  the  Great  Duke 
(Disp.,  Dec.  13, 1810),  "  to  understand  the  Spaniards  exactly !"  Made 
up  of  contradictions,  they  dwell  in  the  land  of  the  unexpected,  lepays  de 


PREFACE  TO  THE  THIBD  EDITION,  7 

VimprevUf  where  exception  is  the  rule ;  where  accide&t  and  the  impulse 
of  the  moment  are  the  moving  powers ;  a  land  where  men,  especially  in 
their  collective  capacity,  act  like  women  and  children ;  where  a  spark,  a 
trifle,  sets  the  impressionahle  masses  in  action,  and  where  no  one  can 
foresee  the  commonest  events,  which  hafiQe  the  most  rational  and  well* 
founded  speculations.  An  explosion  may  occur  at  any  moment ;  nor 
does  any  Spaniard  ever  attempt  to  guess  beyond  la  situacion  actual,  or  to 
foretell  what  the  morrow  will  bring :  that  he  leaves  to  the  foreigner, 
who  does  not  understand  him — accordingly,  sufficient  for  the  day  is 
the  evil  thereof.  Faciencia  y  harajar  is  his  motto,  and  he  waits 
patiently  to  see  what  next  will  turn  up  after  another  sunrise  and  shuffle* 
His  creed  and  practice  are  "  Resignation/'  the  Islam  of  the  Oriental; 
for  this  singular  people  is  scarcely  yet  European;  this  Berhei^ia 
Cristiana  is  at  least  a  neutral  ground  between  the  hat  and  the  turban, 
and  many  still  contend  that  Africa  begins  at  the  Pyrenees. 

Be  that  as  it  may,  Spain,-  first  civilized  by  the  Phoenicians,  and  long 
possessed  by  the  Moors,  has  indelibly  retained  many  of  the  original 
impressions.  Test  her,  therefore,  and  her  natives  by  an  Oriental 
standard, — decypher  her  by  that  key, — ^how  analogous  will  much 
appear,  that  seems  strange  and  repugnant,  when  compared  with  Euro- 
pean usages !  This  land  and  people  of  routine  and  habit  are  potted  for 
antiquarians,  for  here  Pagan,  Roman,  and  Eastern  customs,  long  obsolete 
elsewhere,  turn  up  at  eveiy  step  in  church  and  house,  in  cabinet  and 
campaign.  In  this  age  of  practical  investigation,  the  physical  features 
of  Spain,  her  mighty  mountain  ranges  and  rivers,  her  wealth  above  and 
below  ground,  her  vegetation  and  mines,  offer  a  wide  and  almost  new 
field  to  our  naturalists  and  men  of  science. 

Again,  to  those  of  a  less  utilitarian  turn,  here  are  those  seas  which 
reflect  the  glories  of  Drake,  Blake, .  and  Nelson,  and  those  plains 
that  are  hallowed  by  the  victories  of  the  Black  Prince,  Stanhope, 
and  Wellington;  and  what  English  pilgrim  will  fail  to  visit  such 
sites,  or  be  dead  to  the  religio  loci  which  they  inspire  ?  And  where 
better  than  on  the  sites  themselves,  can  be  read  the  great  deeds 
of  our  soldiers  and  sailors,  their  gallantry  and  good  conduct,  the 
genius,  mercy,  and  integrity  of  their  immortal  chiefs,  which  will 
be  here  faithfully  yet  not  boastingly  recorded?  While  every  lie 
and  libel  is  circulated  on  each  side  of  the  Pyrenees,  is,  forsooth,  the 
truth  to  be  altogether  withheld  in  pages  destined  especially  for  their 
countrymen  ?  Is  their  history  to  be  treated  as  an  old  almanack,  in 
order  in  false  or  cowardly  delicacy,  to  curry  favour  with  unprincipled 
vanity  writhing  under  defeat,  or  with  impotent  pride  resenting  benefits 
which  imply  inferiority  ?  The  mirror  that  shall  truly  reflect  Spain 
and  her  things,  her  glories  and  shame,  must  disclose  a  chequered  pictur 


8  PREFACE  TO  THE  THIRD  EDITION. 

in  which  black  spots  will  contrast  with  bright  lights,  and  the  evil 
clash  with  the  good ;  sad  indeed  will  be  many  a  page ;  alas !  for  the 
works  of  ages  of  piety,  science,  and  fine  art,  trampled  down  by  the 
Vandal  heel  of  destroyers,  foreign  and  domestic,  who  have  left  a  deep 
footprint,  and  set "  the  mark  of  the  beast,"  which  will  pain  the 
scholar,  the  artist,  and  the  philanthropist.  If,  however,  such  crimes 
and  culprits  come  like  dark  shadows  (for  not  one  tithe  of  the  full 
substance  of  crime  will  be  set  down),  it  must  never  be  forgotten  that 
these  verdicts  of  guilty  refer  to  jparticular  individuals  and  periods,  and 
not  to  any  nation  in  general  or  to  all  times.  And  far  more  pleasant 
has  been  the  duty  of  dwelling  on  deeds  of  skill  and  valour  performed 
on  the  peninsular  arena  by  native  or  foreigner,  by  friend  or  foe,  and  of 
pointing  out  the  excellences  of  this  favoured  land  of  Spain,  and  of 
enlarging  on  the  generous,  manly,  independent,  and  picturesque 
People,  whose  best  energies  in  peace  and  war  have  been  too  often 
depressed  by  misgovemment  in  Church  and  State. 

However  it  may  be  the  bounden  duty  of  an  honest  guide  to  put 
English  travellers  in  possession  of  the  truth  as  regards  many  things, 
facts  and  persons,  and  thus  to  guard  them  against  misrepresentations, 
our  readers  need  by  no  means,  on  crossing  the  Channel,  blurt  out  all 
they  know  of  these  truths,  often  the  worst  of  libels.  These  double- 
edged  weapons  may  be  kept  undrawn  until  necessary  for  self-defence. 
Gratuitously  to  wound  a  sensitive  kindly  people,  is  neither  polite  or 
friendly  in  the  stranger,  who  is  their  guest — who  will  pass  more  quietly 
through  the  land  by  making  things  pleasant  to  the  natives,  and  if 
speech  be  silver,  silence  is  often  gold. 


"  HaBC  studia  adolescentiam  agunt,  senectutem  oblectant,  secundas 
res  omant,  adversis  perfugium  ac  solatium  praebent ;  delectant  domi,  non 
impediunt  foris ;  pemoctant  nobiscum,  perigrinantur,  rusticantur." — 
Cicero,  pro  Arch,  7. 


(    9    ) 


CONTENTS. 


PART  I. 

Page 
Pbeface  ••••••••••••• 5 


Section  I.— PRELIMINARY  REMARKS. 

Public  ConTeyances  and  Steamers       ••• 11 

Tours  in  Spain — General  Notices  •••••••••••34 

Skeleton  Tours ••••41 

Section  H.— ANDALUCIA. 

Introductory  Information 126 

Routes .126 

Section  in.— RONDA  AND  GRANADA. 

Introductory  Sketch  of  the  Country  and  Natives :  Routes  •     •     •     .251 
Kingdom  of  Granada     •••••• 291 

Section  IV.— THE  KINGDOM  OF  MUROIA. 

General  View  of  the  Country  and  its  Productions :  Routes     •     •     •  338 
Mines       • ••••••••  339 

Section  V.— VALENCIA. 

General  Account  of  the  Country,  Natiyes,  and  Agriculture      •     •     .  360 

Routes 360 

Valencia    •     •     • 366 

Section  VI.— CATALONIA. 

Character  of  the  Country  and  Natives —  Commerce — Smuggling  and 

Routes  •     * 391 

Barcelona  and  its  History    •••••• 408 

Index ' 


10  C0NTKNT8, 


PART   II. 

Section  Vn.— ESTREMADURA. 

Page 
General  View  of  the  Province — its  Merinos,  Pigs,  and  Routes  •  .461 
Badajoz 466 

Section  YIII.— LEON. 

Introductory  Remarks  on  the  Province  and  Natives,  and  Routes        •  504 

Salamanca 514 

ElVierzo 539 

YaUadolid 566 

Section  IX.— THE  KINGDOM  OF  GALLICIA. 

Introductory  Sketches  of  the  Country,  People,  Production,  and  Routes  587 
Santiago 601 

Section  X.— THE  ASTURIAS. 

General  View  of  the  Principality,  Early  History,  Natives,  and  Routes  631 
Oviedo  and  Coal  Mines       < ••  635 

Section  XI.— THE  CASTILES,  OLD  AND  NEW. 

General  Account  of  the  Country,  Natives,  and  Routes 652 

Madrid 663 

Escorial • 750 

Toledo 774 

Section  XH.— THE  BASQUE  PROVINCES. 

The  Fueros,  Character  of  Country  and  Natives,  Manners,  Language,  872 
and  Routes • 903 

Section  XHI.— KINGDOM  OF  ARRAGON. 

Constitutional  History,  Character  of  Country  and  People  •     •     •     .  906 
Zaragoza •••••  948 

Section  XIV.— KINGDOM  OF  NAVARRE. 

The  (Dountry,  Natives;  and  Routes      ••••....••  952 
Pamplona      .•••...•.. 

Index  ;  To  which  the  reader  is  particularly  requested  to  refer,  when 
any  word  or  feet  seems  to  require  explanation 963 


Spain.  {     11     ) 


SECTION  I. 
PRELIMINARY  REMARKS. 


I.  Spam  and  Spaniards ;  National  CkaractertsiicB,  —  II,  FoMports,'-^ 
III.  CustoTTirhotuse  Officers;  Prohibited  Articles,  —  IV.  Spanish 
Money, '-^Y,  Steam  Communications, ^-"'^ I,  TraveUing  by  Land; 
Hoods ;  Posting  Begulations  and  Charges ;  Post-office  and  Letters  ; 
Mail-coaches;  Diligences;  Muleteers;  Riding  Tours,  —  VII.  Inns, 
— Vni.  Robbers, — IX.  Geography  of  Spain;  Provinces  and  Climate; 
what  to  observe ;  Tours  in  Spain ;  Tour  for  the  Idler ;  the  Grand 
Tour ;  Hints  to  Invalids ;  a  Ruling  Tour ;  Mineral  Baths, —-'K,  SkeU" 
ton  Tours:  — 1.  Roman  Antiquarian  Tour;  2.  Moorish  Tour;  3. 
Oedogical  and  Mineralogical  Tour ;  4.  Tour  over  the  Cream  of  Spain ; 
5.  A  Summer  Tour  in  the  North  of  Spain ;  6.  A  Central  Tour  round 
Madrid ;  7,  An  Artistical  Tour ;  8.  A  Military  and  Naval  Tour ; 
9.  Shooting  and  Fishing  Tours;  10.  DiUetante  Tours:  Spanisli 
Sculpture,  its  varieties ;  Pasos ;  List  of  Sculptors ;  11.  DiUetante 
Tours:  Painting ;  Spanish  Painting  and  its  Characteristics ;  Cautions 
to  Purchasers ;  List  of  Painters ;  12.  Spanish  Architecture ;  its  varieties 
and  periods ;  List  of  Architects ;  13.  Ecdesiciogical  Tour ;  Spanish 
Cathedrals;  Disposition  and  Technical  Terms, — XI.  Religious  Fes^ 
tivals  Tour, — XII.  Kings  of  Spain. — XIII.  Tahle  of  Contemporary 
Sovereigns.  —  XIV.  Royal  Arms  of  Spain,  —  XV.  The  Era  and  New 
Style.  —  XVI.  Spanish  Language  and  P^rowes.  —  XVII.  Relative 
Scales  of  Spanish  and  Fngli^  Weights^  Distances,  and  Measures.  — 
XVIII.  Authorities  quoted: — 1.  Historical  and  Artistical;  2.  Re- 
ligious; S.  Military ;  French,  Spanish,  and  English;  4.  Miscellaneous 
Books, — XIX.  A  Word  to  Book  Collectors. — XX.  Hints  to  Authors. 
*-XXI.  The  BuU-fight.  —  XKlI.  The  S^nish  Theatre:  Dances, 
Music,  —  XXin.  Spanish  Cigars.  —  XaIV.  Spanish  Costume  ; 
Mantilla  and  Cloak. — XXV.  General  Hints  and  Advice  on  Conduct. 


I. — Spain  and  Spaniards. 

Singe  Spain  appears,  on  the  map,  to  be  a  square  and  most  compact 
kingdom,  politicians  and  geographers  have  treated  it  and  its  inhabitants 
as  one  and  the  same ;  practically,  however,  this  is  almost  a  geographical 
expression,  as  the  earth,  air,  and  mortals,  of  the  different  portions 
of  this  conventional  whole,  are  altogether  heterogeneous.  Peninsular 
man  has  followed  the  nature  by  which  he  is  surrounded ;  mountains 
and  rivers  have  walled,  and  moated  the  dislocated  land ;  mists  and 
gleams  have  diversified  the  heaven ;  and  differing  like  soil  and  sky, 
the  people,  in  each  of  the  once  independent  provinces  now  loosely 
bound  together  by  one  golden  hoop,  the  Crown,  has  its  own  par- 
ticular character.  To  hate  his  neighbour  is  a  second  nature  to  ♦ 
Spaniard ;  no  spick  and  span  constitution,  be  it  printed  on  parchmei 


<r- 


12  I.  SPAIN  AND  SPANIARDS.  Sect.  I. 

calico,  can  at  once  efTace  traditions  and  antipathies  of  a  thousand  years ; 
the  accidents  of  localities  and  provincial  nationalities,  out  of  which  they 
have  sprung,  remain  too  deeply  dyed  to  be  forthwith  discharged  by 
theorists,  llie  climate  and  productions  vary  no  less  than  do  language, 
costume,  and  manners  ;  and  so  division  and  localism  have,  from  time 
immemorial,  formed  a  marked  national  feature.  Spaniards  may  talk 
and  boast  of  their  country,  of  their  Patrta,  as  is  done  by  the  similarly 
circumstanced  Italians,  but  like  them  and  the  Germans,  they  have  the 
fallacy,  but  no  real  Fatherland ;  it  is  an  aggregation  rather  than  an 
amalgamation, — every  single  individual  in  his  heart  really  only  loving 
his  native  province,  and  only  considering  as  his  fellow-countryman, 
8u  paisano — a  most  binding  and  endearing  word— one  born  in  the  same 
locality  as  himself :  hence  it  is  not  easy  to  predicate  much  in  regard 
to  "  the  Spains  "  and  Spaniards  in  general,  which  will  hold  quite  good 
as  to  each  particular  portion  ruled  by  the  sovereign  of  Las  Espanas,  the 
plural  title  given  to  the  chief  of  the  federal  union  of  this  really  little 
united  kingdom.  Espanolismo  may,  however,  be  said  to  consist  in  a 
love  for  a  common  faith  and  king,  and  in  a  coincidence  of  resistance 
to  all  foreign  dictation.  The  deep  sentiments  of  religion,  loyalty,  and 
independence,  noble  characteristics  indeed,  have  been  sapped  in  our 
times  by  the  influence  of  transpyrenean  revolutions. 

In  order  to  assist  strangers  in  understanding  the  Peninsula  and  its 
people,  some  preliminary  remarks  are  prefixed  to  each  section  or  pro- 
vince, in  which  the  leading  characteristics  of  nature  and  man  are 
pointed  out.  T^5^o  general  observations  may  be  premised.  First.  The 
People  of  Spain,  the  so-called  Lower  Orders,  are  superior  to  those  who 
arrogate  to  themselves  the  title  of  being  their  Betters,  and  in  most 
respects  are  more  interesting.  The  masses,  the  least  spoilt  and  the 
most  national,  stand  like  pillars  amid  ruins,  and  on  them  the  edifice  of 
Spain's  greatness  is — ^if  ever — to  be  reconstructed.  This  may  have 
arisen,  in  this  land  of  anomalies,  from  the  peculiar  policy  of  government 
in  church  and  state,  where  the  possessors  of  religious  and  civil  mono- 
polies who  dreaded  knowledge  as  power,  pressed  heavily  on  the  noble 
and  rich,  dwarfing  down  their  bodies  by  intermarriages,  and  all  but 
extinguishing  their  minds  by  Inquisitions;  while  the  People,  over- 
looked in  the  obscurity  of  poverty,  were  allowed  to  grow  out  to  their 
ifull  growth  like  wild  weeds  of  a  rich  soil.  They,  in  fact,  have  long 
enjoyed  under  despotisms  of  church  and  state,  a  practical  and  personal 
independence,  the  good  results  of  which  are  evident  in  their  stalwart 
frames  and  manly  bearing. 

Secondly,  A  distinction  must  ever  be  made  between  the  Spaniard 
in  his  individtidl  and  in  his  collective  capacity,  and  still  more  in 
an  official  one :  taken  by  himself,  he  is  true  and  valiant :  the  nicety 
of  his  Pundonory  or  point  of  personal  honour,  is  proverbial ;  to  him 
as  an  individual,  you  may  safely  trust  your  life,  fair  fame,  and  purse. 
Yet  history,  treating  of  these  individuals  in  the  collective,  juntados, 
presents  the  foulest  examples  of  misbehaviour  in  the  field,  of  Punic  bad 
faith  in  the  cabinet,  of  bankruptcy  and  repudiation  on  the  exchange. 
This  may  be  also  much  ascribed  to  the  deteriorating  influence  of  bad 
government,  by  which  the  individual  Spaniard,  like  the  monk  in  a 

-i.vent,  becomes  fused  into  the  corporate.     The  atmosphere  is  too 


Spain.  u.  passports.  13 

infectious  to  avoid  some  comiption,  and  while  the  Spaniard  feels  that 
his  character  is  only  in  safe  keeping  when  in  his  own  hands,  and  no  roan 
of  any  nation  knows  better  then  how  to  uphold  it,  when  linked  with 
others,  his  self-pride,  impatient  of  any  superior,  lends  itself  readily  to 
feelings  of  mistrust,  until  self-interest  and  preservation  become  upper* 
most.  From  suspecting  that  he  will  be  sold  and  sacrificed  by  others, 
he  ends  by  floating  down  the  turbid  stream  like  the  rest :  yet  even 
official  employment  does  not  quite  destroy  all  private  good  qualities,  and 
the  empleado  may  be  appealed  to  as  an  individual, 

II. — Pasbpobts. 

A  Passport — that  curse  of  continental  travelling,  and  still  essential 
in  Spain — may  be  obtained  at  the  Foreign-office,  Downing-street, 
for  Is,  Qd,,  by  any  British  subject,  backed  with  the  recommendation  of 
a  banker.  It  had  better  be  vis^  by  the  Spanish  Ambassador  in  Lon- 
don. As  this  Refrendacion  is  expressed  in  the  Spanish  language,  the 
import  of  a  foreign  passport  becomes  intelligible  in  Spain,  where,  out  of 
the  large  towns,  few  persons  understand  either  English  or  French.  ITie 
essence  of  a  passport  is  the  name  and  country  of  the  bearer ;  all  the  rest 
is  leather  and  prunella  and  red-tapeism. 

Travellers  who  propose  taking  Portugal  in  their  way  to  Spain,  may 
obtain  a  passport  from  the  Portuguese  consul,  at  No.  5,  Jeffreys-square, 
St.  Mary  Axe ;  the  fee  is  five  shillings.  It  must  be  vis^d  at  Lisbon  by 
the  English  and  Spanish  Ambassadors  previously  to  entering  Spain. 
Those  who  enter  Spain  from  France  must  have  their  passports  vis^d  at 
Paris  by  the  Spanish  Ambassador,  and  at  Bayonne  by  the  Spanish  and 
English  Consuls ;  the  latter  demanding  a  fee,  '*  according  to  Act  of 
Parliament." 

At  the  principal  sea-ports  of  Spain,  foreigners  are  constantly  arriving 
in  the  steamers  without  passports,  who,  if  they  wish  to  travel  into  the 
interior,  obtain  one  from  the  local  authorities,  which  is  never  refused 
when  applied  for  by  the  English  Consul.  This  especially  holds  good 
with  regard  to  those  who  visit  the  coast  in  their  yachts,  or  in  ships  of 
war.  Those  English  who  go  directly  to  Gibraltar  require  no  passport ; 
and  when  starting  for  Spain  they  can  obtain  one  either  from  the  English 
Governor  or  from  the  Spanish  Governor  of  Algeciras :  both  of  these 
require  to  be  vis^d  by  the  Spanish  Consul  at  Gibraltar,  who  demands  a 
trifling  fee. 

Although  in  peaceful  times,  and  since  the  decree  on  this  subject 
of  February  15,  1854,  many  rigid  rules  are  relaxed,  yet  as  they  may 
be  put  in  force,  ultra-prudent  travellers  who  intend  travelling  with 
fire-arms,  (which  on  the  whole  had  better  be  avoided,  a  pocket  revolver 
perhaps  excepted,)  should  have  the  circumstance  mentioned  on  their 
passport  by  the  Spanish  official  at  starting,  when  it  is  first  refrendado. 
And  it  is  not  amiss  to  have  specified  the  particular  objects  of  travel, 
such  as  botanising,  geologizing,  sketching,  &c.  In  our  and  in  all 
troublesome  times  a  stranger  making  drawings  or  writing  down  notes 
in  a  book,  "  mcando  pianos,^*  **  taking  plans,"  "  mapeando  el  pais,^* 
"  mapping  the  country," — for  such  are  the  expressions  for  the  simplest 
pencil  sketch — ^was  liable  to  become  an  object  of  suspicion  in  out-of-the 
way  places,  and  was  thought  to  be  an  engineer,  a  spy,  and  at  all  even 


14  u*  PASSPORTS*  Sect.  I. 

about  no  good.  This  Oriental  dislike  to  the  impertinente  curioso  tribe 
dates  from  the  French  having,  previously  to  Buonaparte's  invasion, 
sent  emissaries  in  the  guise  of  travellers,  to  obtain  such  information  as 
afterwards  facilitated  their  obtaining  possession  of  the  citadels,  treasures, 
and  pictures  of  their  deceived  ally.  Matters  are,  we  are  told,  much 
mended ;  but  let  artists  remember  that  Hogarth  and  Wilkie  were  arrested 
for  even  sketching  Calais,  and  it  is  always  best  to  be  on  the  safe  side. 

All  persons,  moreover,  had  better  avoid  evincing  particular  curiosity 
in  regard  to  military  matters,  fortresses,  arsenals,  barracks,  &c. ;  and 
should  refrain  from  sketching  them,  which,  in  the  Draco  laws  of  Spain, 
is  of  itself  a  serious  offence  ;  nor  indeed  are  these  objects  deserving  of 
notice,  being  mostly  hors-de-combat,  after  the  Oriental  fashion,  and,  as 
the  Duke  said,  "  wanting  in  everything,  and  at  the  critical  moment.'* 

Our  own  system,  which  answered  perfectly  when  Ferdinand  VII.  was 
king,  and  may  again,  was,  not  only  to  have  the  object  of  travelling  and 
inquiries  clearly  explained  on  our  passport,  but  on  arrival  at  any  town, 
to  communicate  intention  of  drawing,  or  anything  else,  to  the  proper 
authority,  and  obtain  his  sanction.  We  always  travelled  with  a  captain- 
generaPs  passport,  a  most  desirable  document,  as  it  is  expressed  in  the 
Spanish  language,  which  everybody  understands,  and  which  rouses  no 
suspicions  like  one  couched  in  a  foreign  tongue;  it  is  the  military 
document  of  the  great  military  officer,  under  whose  especial  protection 
all  foreigners  are  placed.  Again,  it  is  a  sort  of  letter  of  recommenda- 
tion to  all  other  officers  in  command  on  the  line  of  route,  on  whom  the 
bearer  should  call  the  first  thing,  as  when  once  a  Spaniard's  suspicions 
are  disarmed,  no  person  can  be  more  courteous  or  attentive. 

In  whatever  language  his  passport  be  couched,  let  every  Englishman, 
like  good  old  George  III.,  glory  everywhere  in  his  British  birthright, 
and  proclaim  it  loudly  and  with  thanks  to  God :  Senor^  gracias  a  Dios, 
soy  CabaUero  Ingles.  Again,  as  the  thing  cannot  be  avoided,  the 
traveller  should  early  form  the  habit,  the  very  first  thing  on  arrival,  to 
ask  the  innkeeper  what  steps  are  necessary  about  passports  and  police — 
which  now  in  some  sort  represent  the  Inquisition — and  forthwith  see  that 
he  is  quite  en  regie.  The  habit  once  established  of  complying  with 
these  forms  practically  gives  little  trouble,  and  will  obviate  a  world  of 
vexation,  inconvenience,  and  loss  of  time.  The  necessary  formalities 
are  soon  done ;  and  usually  great  civility  is  shown  by  the  authorities  to 
those  travellers  who  will  wait  upon  them  in  person,  which  is  not  always 
required,  and  who  do  taJ^  off  their  hats — that  outward  visible  sign  of 
good  breeding  and  good  intentions  on  the  continent,  which  is  so  fre- 
quently disregarded  by  our  cool,  curt,  and  catch-cold  countrymen,  to 
their  infinite  cost.  The  Spaniards,  who  are  not  to  be  driven  with  a  rod 
of  iron,  may  be  led  by  a  straw,  and  in  no  countiy  is  more  to  be  obtained 
by  the  cheap  outlay  of  courtesy  in  manner  and  speech ;  "  cortesia  de 
hoca,  mucho  vale  y  poco  cttesta,^*  As  a  general  rule,  the  utmost  care 
should  be  taken  of  this  odious  passport,  since  the  loss  of  it  naturally 
subjects  the  stranger  to  every  sort  of  suspicion.  It  should  be  carried 
about  the  person  when  travelling,  as  it  is  liable  constantly  to  be  called 
for :  to  prevent  it  from  being  worn  out,  it  is  advisable  to  have  it  laid  down 
''"V  Mr.  Lee,  440,  West  Strand,  on  fine  linen,  bound  into  a  small  pocket- 
)k,  with  blank  leaves  attached,  on  which  signatures  may  be  written. 


Spain,  Ul.   CUSTOM-HOUSES. — ^IV.  SPAKISH  MONET.  15 

III. — CuSTOM-HoUSES. 

Akin  to  the  nuisance  of  passports  is  that  of  the  Aduaneros,  the 
custom-house  officers,  and  of  the  receivers  of  the  derechoa  de  puerta,  or 
dues  levied  at  city-gates  on  comesttblea  de  boca — articles  of  eating  and 
drinking.  From  the  number  of  the  employed  it  would  seem  that  every 
province  and  town  in  Spain  was  at  war  with  or  foreign  to  its  neighbour. 
No  prudent  traveller  will  ever  risk  his  ease  and  security  by  carrying 
any  prohibited  goods  with  him.  The  objects  most  searched  for,  are 
sealed  letters  and  tobacco :  if  the  lover  of  cigars  has  a  considerable 
stock  with  him  (a  pound  or  so  may  pass),  he  is  advised  to  declare  it 
at  once,  pay  the  duty,  and  obtain  Skguia,  or  permit,  which  exempts  him 
from  further  molestation.  English  fire-arms  and  gunpowder  are 
altogether  prohibited.  Sportsmen,  however,  who  enter  Spain  from 
Gibraltar,  may  manage  to  introduce  their  own  guns  and  ammunition. 

As  the  Be8guardo8f — the  custom-^ouse  officers  and  preventive  service 
—have  a  right  to  examine  baggage,  it  is  of  no  use  either  to  resist 
or  lose  thus  time  and  temper ;  much  more  may  be  done  by  good 
humour,  patience,  civility,  and  a  cigar:  raise  therefore  no  difficulties, 
but  ofiFer  your  keys,  and  profess  the  greatest  readiness  to  have  every- 
thing examined.  Eecent  travellers  report  that  bribing  is  now  out  of 
fashion  in  Spain,  and  that  no  money  should  be  offered,  as  is  enjoined 
but  not  practised  on  our  railways.  But  in  our  time  the  grandest 
panacea  was  cash,  the  oriental  Backshish,  and  those  who  preferred  peace 
to  pesetas,  paid  with  both  hands.  The  official  ophthalmia  created  by 
an  apposite  sprinkle  of  gold-dust  was  marvellous  in  its  rapidity  and 
completeness,  and  the  examination  ended  in  being  a  mere  farce.  The 
tmpieados,  used  to  be  defined  as  gentlemen,  who,  under  the  pretence 
of  searching  portmanteaus,  took  money  on  the  highway  without  incur- 
ring the  disgrace  of  begging,  or  the  danger  of  robbing.  The  bribe,  if 
given,  must  be  administered  with  some  tact,  as  a  **  propina  para  echar 
un  trojgV'ito^^  a  something  to  drink  your  health  with,  &c.  However, 
there  is  no  great  difficulty  in  the  matter,  for  where  there  is  a  will  on 
one  side  to  give,  there  is  a  reciprocal  desire  on  the  other  to  receive, 
and  the  itching  palm  expands  and  contracts  by  instinct  to  the  soothing 
and  sovereign  ointment.  These  things  may  be  changed,  but  the  tra- 
veller will  soon  see  how  the  wind  lies,  and  judge  whether  he  should 
bribe  or  not. 

rV. — Spanish  Mokey. 

Our  advice  coincides  with  that  of  the  roguish  Ventero  to  Don  Quixote 
and  of  honest  lago  in  Othello — ^'  put  money  in  thy  purse,"  as  it  is  the 
primum  mobile  in  all  cosas  de  Espana.  "  The  first  thing  they  (the 
Spaniards)  invariably  want,"  as  the  Duke  said,  "is  money :"  their  para- 
mount worship  of  the  Virgin  is  secondary  to  the  adoration  of  Mammon. 

With  few  exceptions,  the  currency  consists  of  specie— copper,  silver, 
and  gold.    Accounts  are  usually  kept  in  reals,  reaUs  de  veUon. 

Copper  Moneys — "  Monedas  de  CdbreJ'^ — ^The  lowest  in  denomination 
is  the  ancient  Truiravedi,  now  an  imaginary  coin,  on  whose  former  value 
treatises  have  been  written  by  Saez  and  others,  and  which  still  forms 
numismatic  bone  of  contention.    At  present  34  make  a  Spanish  real, 


10 

20 

5 

10 

2i 

5 

I 

2 

1 

16  IV.  SPANISH  MONEY.  Sect.  I. 

The  current  copper  coins  are — 

Ochavo  =  2  maravedis, 

Cuarto  =  4        „ 

Dos  cuartos     =  8        „ 

For  a  general  rule,  the  traveller  may  consider  the  ^*  ctioHo^^  as  equi- 
valent to  a  French  sou,  something  less  than  our  English  halfpenny, 
and  as  the  smallest  coin  likely  to  come  much  under  his  observation. 
Those  below  it,  fractions  of  farthings,  have  hardly  any  defined  form  ; 
indeed,  among  the  lower  classes  every  bit  of  copper  in  the  shape  of  a 
coin  passes  for  money. 

Silver  Coins — "  Monedas  de  Plata  " — are 

The  Real  I        2        4 

Dos  reales  1        2 

Peseta  I 

Medio  Duro 
Duro 

The  real  is  worth  somewhat  more  than  2Jc?. ;  the  dos  reales,  or  2 
reals,  somewhat  less  than  5eZ.,  and  may  be  considered  as  equivalent  to 
the  half-franc,  and  representing  in  Spain  the  sixpence  in  England. 
The  peseta  comes  very  nearly  to  the  French  franc.  Of  these  and  the 
"  dos  reales  "  the  traveller  should  always  take  a  good  supply,  for,  as 
the  Scotchman  said  of  sixpences,  "  they  are  canny  little  dogs,  and 
often  do  the  work  of  shillings."  The  half-dollar  varies,  according  to 
the  exchange,  between  two  shillings  and  half  a  crown. 

The  dollar  of  Spain,  so  well  known  all  over  the  world,  is  the  Italian 
"  colonato,"  so  called  because  the  arms  of  Spain  are  supported  between 
the  two  pillars  of  Hercules.  The  ordinary  Spanish  name  is  "  duro,^* 
They  are  often,  however,  termed  in  banking  and  mercantile  transactions 
*' pesos  fttertesj^^  to  distinguish  them  from  the  imaginary  ^*peso**  or 
smaller  dollar  of  15  reals  only,  of  which  the  peseta  is  the  diminutive. 

The  "  duro  "  in  the  last  century  was  coined  into  half-dollars,  quarter- 
dollars,  and  half-quarter  dollars.  The  two  latter  do  not  often  occur ; 
they  may  be  distinguished  from  the  '^peseta"  and  *^ dos  reales ^^hy 
having  the  arms  of  Spain  stamped  between  the  two  piUarSy  which  have 
been  omitted  in  recent  coinages ;  their  fractional  value  renders  them  in- 
convenient to  the  traveller  until  perfectly  familiar  with  Spanish  money. 
The  quarter-dollar  is  worth  5  reals,  while  the  peseta  is  only  worth  4 ; 
the  half-quarter  dollar  is  worth  2^  reals,  while  the  dos  reales  is  only 
worth  2.  The  duro  in  accounts  is  genemlly  marked  thus  %.  This 
coin  is  now  getting  scarce,  having  been  much  melted  down  abroad,  and 
is  nearly  superseded  in  Spain  by  the  French  pieces  de  cinq  fraricSy 
here  called  Napdeones,  and  these  are  the  best  coins  a  traveller  can  take, 
as  each  is  current  everywhere  for  19  reals. 

The  Odd  Coiruige  consists  of  the 

Duro  12        4 

Dos  duros  1        2 

DMm  1 

Medioronza 

Onza     . 

The  new  coin,  the  Isahdino,  the  Spanish  sovereign,  is  worth  5  duros, 
100  reals.    The  ounce,  when  of  full  weight,  is  worth  sixteen 


8 

16 

4 

8 

2 

4 

1 

2 

. 

1 

Spain.  IV.  SPANISH  MONET.  17 

dollars ;  the  exact  value,  however,  is  uncertain,  since  these  large 
coins,  are  much  worn  by  time,  and  the  sweating  by  the  fraudulent, 
and  seldom  have  preserved  their  legal  weight  and  value.  Those  thuB 
deficient  ought  to  be  accompanied  with  a  certificate,  wherein  is  stated 
their  exact  diminished  weight  and  value.  This  certificate  may  be 
obtained  in  the  principal  towns  from  the  **  contraHe,**  or  **y?eZ 
Tnedidor,^^  the  person  who  is  legally  authorized  to  weigh  gold  coins 
supposed  to  be  lights  and  his  place  of  abode  is  well  known.  All 
this,  however,  leads  to  constant  disputes  and  delays,  and  the 
stranger  must  take  care  when  he  receives  onzas,  except  from  first-rate 
Spanish  bankers  or  merchants,  to  see  that  these  great  coins  are  of  cor- 
rect weight :  two  grains  are  generally  allowed  for  wear.  It  is  better, 
except  when  residing  in  large  towns,  only  to  take  the  smaller  gold 
coins,  to  which  objections  are  seldom  raised.  The  traveller  who  is 
about  to  leave  the  high  road  and  visit  the  more  rarely  frequented  dis- 
tricts and  towns,  should  have  nothing  to  do  with  any  onzas  whatever ; 
for,  when  these  broad  pieces  are  offered  for  payment  in  a  small  village, 
they  are  apt  to  be  viewed  with  distrust,  and  are  diflBcult  to  be  changed, 
while  with  the  smaller  ones  nothing  of  the  kind  occurs. 

Some  gold  coins  have  a  narrow  thread  or  cord  stamped  round  them, 
and  are  then  termed  "  de  premio"  They  have  a  small  additional  value 
— the  gold  duro,  for  instance,  circulating  for  21  reales  2  cuartos — but 
they  should  be  avoided  by  the  traveller,  as  he  will  seldom  be  reminded 
when  paying  them  away,  that  he  is  giving  more  than  he  ought.  These 
coins,  in  common  with  all  which  are  not  the  simplest  and  best  known, 
only  entail  on  him  probable  loss  and  certain  trouble  in  adding  up 
accounts  and  making  payments. 

There  are  two  imaginary  coins  with  which  old-fashioned  Spaniards 
perplex  strangers  when  naming  prices  or  talking  of  values,  just  as  is 
done  with  our  obsolete  guinea :  one  is  the  "  ducado,^  worth  11  reals, 
or  about  half  our  crown ;  the  other  is  the  ^^peao,*  the  piastre,  worth 
15  reals,  and  by  which,  although  imaginary,  tne  exchange  on  England 
is  still  regulated :  thus  so  many  pence,  more  or  less,  as  the  rate  may 
be  high  or  low,  are  reckoned  as  equivalent  to  this  "  peso :"  the  exchange 
on  the  principal  cities  of  Europe  is  generally  published  in  all  Spanish 
newspapers.  36  pence  is  considered  to  be  par,  or  48  for  the  dollar,  or 
^^pesofv^rte,^^  as  it  is  called,  to  distinguish  the  whole  piece  from  the 
smaller  one.  The  traveller  may  calculate  by  this  simple  rule  how 
much  he  ought  to  got  for  his  pound  sterling.  If  36  pence  vAW.  produce 
15  reals,  how  many  reals  will  240  pence  give  ? — the  answer  is  100. 
This  being  a  round  number,  will  form  a  sufficient  basis  for  one  newly 
arrived  in  Spain  to  regulate  his  financial  computation  :  he  may  take  a 
hundred  reals  as  equivalent  to  a  pound  sterling^  although  he  will  be 
most  fortunate  if  ever  he  gets  it— or  even  95,  the  practical  par — ^after 
all  the  etceteras  of  exchange,  commission,  and  money-scrivening,  are 
deducted.  The  usual  mode  of  drawing  on  England  is  by  bills  at  90 
days  after  sight,  at  a  usance  and  half,  60  days  being  the  usance.  The 
traveller  who  draws  at  sight,  "  corto^'*  or  at  shorter  dates,  or  **  a  treinta 
didSy^  at  30  days,  ought  in  consequence  to  obtain  a  more  favourable 
rate  of  exchange. 
•    In  the  passive  commerce  of  SiJain  the  infant  trade  of  banking  v 


18  V.   STEAM  COMMUNICATIONS.  Sect.  I. 

seldom  separated  from  the  general  business  of  a  merchant,  except  in 
the  chief  towns ;  among  these  the  circular  notes  of  Messrs.  Herries  and 
Farquhar,  and  others,  are  tolerably  negociable. 

The  traveller,  on  arriving  at  the  first  principal  city  on  his  projected 
line  of  tour,  if  it  be  one  at  all  out  of  the  beaten  line,  should  draw  a  sum 
sufficient  to  carry  him  to  the  next  point,  where  he  can  obtain  a  fresh 
supply :  and,  in  order  to  prevent  accidents  on  the  road,  the  first  banker 
or  merchant  should  be  desired  to  furnish  smaller  letters  of  credit  on 
the  intermediate  towns.  Those  acquainted  with  the  mysteries  of  bills 
and  exchanges  in  London  may  frequently  obtain  paper  on  Spain  here, 
by  which  a  considerable  turn  of  the  market  may  be  made.  Of  foreign 
coins,  the  English  sovereign  is  worth  95  reals,  the  French  napoleon  75. 

It  is  needless  to  trouble  the  traveller  with  the  infinite  local  coins 
which  circulate  in  the  different  provinces,  remnants  of  their  former 
independence,  and  the  more  as  a  scheme  is  in  contemplation  of  reducing 
the  varied  monies  of  Spain  to  the  decimal  system  of  France— from  cen- 
tigranos  copper,  to  Itabeiinos  in  gold,  to  be  worth  100  reals. 

V. — Steam  Ck)MMnNiCATioy8. 

The  whole  line  of  coast,  an  extent  of  nearly  600  leagues,  is  provided 
with  steamers.  The  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany, which  takes  her  Majesty's  mails  on  to  Malta  and  Alexandria, 
offers  a  regular  convevance  from  London  to  Gibraltar.  To  secure  pas-* 
sages  and  to  obtain  mformation  of  every  kind,  applications  may  be, 
made  at  the  Company's  office.  No.  122,  Leadenhall  Street,  or  at 
Oriental  Place,  Southampton.  The  Company  publishes  a  little  Band" 
hook,  which  contains  everything  necessary  to  be  known,  as  to  days  of 
departure,  fares,  &c.  As  these  are  liable  to  annual  changes,  travellers 
should  apply  personally  or  by  letter  to  the  secretary,  Mr.  Howell,  and 
may  be  assured  that  they  will  meet  with  great  civility  and  attention. 
The  Companv  has  agents  in  the  principal  seaports  abroad,  of  whom  all 
necessary  inu>rmation  can  be  obtained  on  the  spot. 

The  average  fares  may  be  thus  stated : — 


Firat  Class. 

Second  Class. 

£.   8.    i. 

£.   s.   d. 

To  Vigo  .     • 

•     8    0    0 

5     0    0 

Oporto      • 

•     9    0    0 

7     0    0 

Lisbon     • 

.   10     0    0 

7  10    0 

Cadiz  •     • 

•   12  10     0 

9     0    0 

Gibraltar  • 

•  13     0     0 

9  10    0 

Children  under  10  years  of  age,  if  with  the  parent,  are  charged  half  the 
above  rates ;  under  3  years  of  age,  free.  The  fares  include  a  liberal 
table,  and  wines,  for  first-cabin  passengers ;  and  for  second-oabin  pas* 
sengers,  provisions  without  wines. 

Baggage, — ^First-class  passengers  are  allowed  each  2  cwt.  of  personal 
bi^gage ;  all  above  that  quantity  will  be  charged  at  the  rate  of  Is.  per 
cubic  foot.  Each  vessel  carries  a  medical  officer  approved  of  by  govern- 
ment. Experienced  and  respectable  female  attendants  for  the  ladies' 
cabin.  Private  family  cabins  for  passengers,  if  required.  The  average 
"passages  may  be  taken  as  follows : — 


LLINO  BY  T.AND. 

19 

Is  SUIOCBK. 

IxWncTKS. 

Hoora. 

Hours* 

•      •     96  to  105 

112 

•     •       8to      9 

11 

.     .     18  to    19 

22 

.     .     27  to    31 

84 

•     .       7  to    10 

11 

Spain, 


Southampton  to  Vigo  • 
Vigo  to  Oporto  .  • 
Oporto  to  Lisbon  •  • 
Lisbon  to  Cadis  •  • 
Cadiz  to  Gibraltar  •     « 

The  vessels  generally  remain  about  3  hours  at  VCgo^  1^  off  Oporto^ 
12  at  Lisbon,  and  3  at  C<idiz ;  Oihrcdtar  is  usually  reached  the  8th 
day.  The  direct  passage  is  accomplished  in  5^  days.  A  new  Screw 
Steam  Shipping  Company  was  contemplated  iu  1854,  to  run 
weekly  between  London  and  the  South  of  Spain.  Fares,  to  Cadis 
or  Gibraltar,  chief  cabin,  101,  10«. ;  2nd  cabin,  6/.  10«.  The  steamers 
on  their  arrival  at  Spanish  ports  are  soon  surrounded  with  boats  to  convey 
passengers  on  shore,  the  demands  of  the  unconscionable  crews  rising 
with  tlie  winds  and  waves.  The  proper  charges  per  tarif  are  a  peaeta 
per  person,  itvo  reals  per  portmanteau,  and  one  for  each  smaller  package ; 
a  passenger  without  luggage  has  to  pay  tioo  reals  for  being  landed,  or 
put  on  board.    The  word  **  tari/a  "  itself  generally  settles  disputes. 

The  foreign  steamers  are  neither  such  g<x)d  sea  boats,  nor  so  regular 
or  well  manned  as  their  English  competitors.  From  La  Teste^  near 
Bordeaux,  one  runs  to  San  Sebastian  and  Conmna ;  another  touches 
at  the  ports  between  San  Sebastian  and  Malaga,  There  is  regular 
communication  between  Cadiz  and  Marseilles,  The  steamers  usually 
remain  about  half  a  day  at  Algeciras,  a  whole  one  at  Malaga,  a  few 
hours  at  Almeria,  half  a  day  each  at  Cartagena  and  Alicante ;  a  whole 
one  at  Valenciay  a  few  hours  occasionally  at  Tarragona,  two  days  at 
Barcelona,  and  half  a  one  at  Fort  Vendres.  The  exact  particulars, 
times  of  sailing,  fares,  &c.  are  to  be  seen  in  every  inn  on  the  coast,  or 
may  be  ascertained  from  the  local  agents.  Remember,  if  you  wish  to 
forward  baggage  or  packages  by  these  steamers,  to  have  them  very 
carefully  directed  to  the  person  to  whom  they  are  consigned,  and  to 
take  a  receipt  for  them  and  forward  it  per  post  to  your  correspondent, 
desiring  him  to  send  for  the  articles  the  moment  the  steamer  arrives, 
or  they  will  either  be  left  on  board,  or  lost,  after  the  usual  fashion  of 
the  unbusinesslike,  pococurante  Mediterraneans. 

VI. — Travelling  by  Land— Roads — ^Posting — ^PosT-OrncK — ^Mail- 
Coaches  — Diligences — Coches  db  Collebas  —  Muleteees  — 
Riding  Toitbs. 

The  railroad  is  in  its  infancy.  Spain,  a  jumble  of  mountains,  with 
few  large  cities,  and  those  far  between,  with  an  unvisited,  unvisiting 
population,  and  a  petty  passive  commerce,  is  admirably  suited  for  the 
time*hononred  national  locomotive,  the  ass  and  mule.  There  has,  how- 
ever, been  much  talk  of  the  Ferro  Carril  system,  which  is  to  cover  the 
Peninsula  with  an  iron  net-work  of  communications,  level  the  sierras, 
and  pay  20  per  cent.,  &c.  TTiis  is  proposed  to  be  done  chiefly  by 
English  gold  and  Navvies.  A  comedy  or  tragedy  might  be  written  on 
the  plausible  schemes  by  which  the  gullability  of  John  Bull  has  been 
tickled  and  his  pockets  lightened.  Hitherto  the  «*  Powers  that  be  "  in 
Sijain  have  scarcely  settled  the  sine  qud  non  preliminary  step,  i,  c.  thf 


20  VI.   TRAVELLING  BY  LAND — POSTING.  Sect.  I. 

division  among  each  other  of  the  plunder  in  granting  "  concessions," 
&c.  Permissions,  forsooth,  for  silly  foreigners  to  be  allowed  as  a 
favour  to  do  the  work — throw  away  time  and  cash,  in  order  to  be 
laughed  at,  insulted,  and  ultimately  cheated  for  their  pains. 

Meantime  there  are  eight  royal  roads,  caminos  reales — carretei^ast 
generdkSf  which  branch  forth  from  the  capital  like  spokes  of  a  wheel, 
and  run  to  Irurij  to  Barcelona  by  Valencia,  to  Cadiz  by  Seville,  to 
Granada,  to  La  Junqv^era  by  Zaragoza,  to  Corunna,  Oviedo,  and  to 
Porttigal  by  Badajoz.  These  first-class  roads  are  also  called  Arrecifes, 
from  the  Arabic  word 'for  chauss^es,  causeways :  they  are  made  on  the 
Macadam  system,  admirably  engineered,  and  kept  in  infamous  neglect. 
The  wear  and  tear  of  traffic  and  weather  has  destroyed  the  surface 
material,  forming  holes,  and  malos  pasos,  \>y  which  coach-springs  are 
cracked  and  travellers'  bones  dislocated :  nevertheless,  heavy  turnpike 
and  ferry  tolls  are  raised  at  the  portazgos  y  harcas ;  recently  some  stir  of 
improvement  is  visible  both  in  the  repair  of  the  older  roads,  and  in  the 
construction  of  new  ones ;  ordinary  but  carriageable  roads  are  called 
caminos  carreteros,  caminos  de  carruage,  de  carretera,  and  are  just  prac- 
ticable :  bridle-roads  are  called  caminos  de  herradura.  Bye-ways  and 
short  cuts  are  tenned  trochas,  travesias  and  caminos  de  atajo,  and 
familiarly  and  justly  called  caminos  de  perdices,  roads  for  partridges ; 
nor  should  any  man  in  his  senses  or  in  a  wheel-carriage  forget  the  pro- 
verb no  hay  atajo,  sin  ^raZ>a;o— there  is  no  short  cut  without  hard  work: 
A  ramUa — Arabic^  rarrd — sand,  serves  the  double  purpose  of  a  road  in 
summer  for  men  and  beasts,  and  a  river  bed  in  winter  for  fish,  fools, 
and  wild  fowl.  This  term  and  thing  is  pretty  general  in  Valencia  and 
commercial  I  Catalonia. 

Internal  locomotion  has  been  lately  facilitated  throughout  the  Penin- 
sula as  regards  public  conveyances,  but  the  progress  is  slow ;  travelling 
in  your  own  carriage  with  post  horses,  changing  at  each  relay,  is  only 
practicable  on  the  high  road  from  Irun  to  Madrid,  and  even  then  is  cer- 
tainly not  to  be  recommended ;  nor  is  it  usually  done  except  by  Cabinet 
couriers  or  very  great  personages.  However,  by  making  an  arrange- 
ment with  the  persons  who  horse  the  diligences,  journeys  have  been 
performed  on  the  leading  roads  by  persons  in  their  own  carriages.  The 
*  Quia  General  de  Correos,^  by  Francisco  Xavier  de  Cabanes,  4to.,  Mad., 
1830,  is  useful,  since  posting,  being  a  royal  monopoly,  is  fettered  with 
the  usual  continental  checks  and  bureaucratic  bothers. 

The  distances  are  regulated  and  paid  for — not  by  posts,  but  by 
leagues,  legtuis,  of  20,000  feet,  or  20  to  a  degree  of  the  meridian,  and 
somewhat  less  than  three  miles  and  a  half  English,  being  the  nautical 
league  of  three  geographical  miles.  The  country  leagues,  especially 
in  the  wilder  and  mountainous  districts,  are  calculated  more  by  guess- 
work than  measurement.  Generally  you  may  reckon  by  time  rather 
than  distance,  the  sure  test  of  slow  coaching,  and  consider  the  leagtte 
a  sort  of  German  stunde,  an  hotir^s  work.  The  term  "  legua^^  is  modified 
by  an  explanatory  epithet.  "  Larga,^^  or  long,  varies  from  four  to  five 
miles.  "  Regular,^*  a  very  Spanish  word,  is  used  to  express  a  league, 
or  anything  else  that  is  neither  one  thing  nor  another,  something  about 
the  regular  post  league.  "  Corta^^  as  it  implies,  is  a  short  league, 
"  ree  miles.     These  leagues,  like  everything  in  Spain,  vary  in  the 


Spain.  yi.  post-office  and  lettebs.  21 

different  proyinces,  and  it  is  contemplated,  in  imitation  of  the  French, 
to  introduce  one  standard ;  when  Iberian  ears  will  be  astounded  with 
myriometros  y  kilometros — ^but  this  scheme  is  easier  talked  about  than 
done.  Post-horses  and  mules  are  paid  at  the  rate  of  six  reals  each 
for  each  post  league,  and  five  only  when  the  traveller  is  on  the  royal 
service.  The  number  of  animals  to  be  paid  for  is  regulated  by  the 
number  of  travellers ;  more  than  six,  however,  are  never  put  on ;  if 
the  passengers  exceed  six  in  number,  six  reals  more  are  charged,  over 
and  above  the  price  of  the  six  horses  put  to,  for  each  traveller  exceeding 
the  number  ;  a  child  under  seven  years  of  age  is  not  reckoned  as  a  pas- 
senger ;  two  children  under  that  age  are  to  be  paid  for  as  one  grown- 
up person.  If  the  postmaster  puts  on  for  his  own  convenience  either 
more  or  less  horses  than  the  tariff  expresses,  the  traveller  is  only  bound 
to  pay  for  the  number  therein  regulated.  The  ])ostilions  are  obliged 
to  travel  two  leagues  in  an  hour,  but  they,  if  well  paid,  drive  at  a 
tremendous  pace.  They  may  not  change  horses  with  another  carriage 
on  the  road,  except  with  the  consent  of  the  traveller.  Their  strict 
pay  is  three  reals  a  lesigae  ;  but  the  custom  is  usually  to  give  seven, 
and  even  eight,  if  they  have  behaved  well :  by  law  the  post-boy  can 
insist  on  driving  from  the  coach-box,  "  el  pescante,**  and  as  nothing  of 
that  kind  is  attached  to  some  britchkas  and  English  carriages,  an 
additional  real  is  the  surest  mode  of  obviating  these  discussions  and 
mounting  him  on  his  horse.  The  postilions,  if  they  infringe  any  of 
the  rules,  are  liable  to  lose  their  **  agvjetas  " — their  **  proptna  "  (tt/^o- 
fl-ivctv— -something  to  drink — pour  boire — trink-gelt).  The  postmaster 
of  the  next  relay  is  bound  to  adjudicate  on  the  complaiot  of  the  tra- 
veller, and  he  Mmself  is  amenable,  if  the  traveller  be  dissatisfied  with 
his  decision,  to  the  director  of  the  superior  administration  at  the  next 
town,  and  he  again  to  the  **  superintendencia  general,^*  the  chief 
authority  at  Madrid. 

As  regards  post-offices  and  letters,  the  general  correspondence  of 
Spain  is  tolerably  well  regulated ;  a  single  letter,  una  carta  8e7iciUa, 
must  not  exceed  six  adarmes,  or  half  an  ounce ;  the  charge  for  postage 
increases  with  the  weight.  The  English  system  has  been  recently 
introduced ;  a  uniform  charge  for  postage — by  weight — now  prevails 
over  Spain,  irrespective  of  distance.  The  stamps  are  called  sellos, 
English  newspapers,  when  not  prohibited,  are  free  to  Spain  ;  pamphlets 
and  papers  fastened  like  ours,  with  an  open  band  oxfaja  for  directing, 
are  charged  at  the  rate  of  four  reals  the  pound.  As  private  letters  are 
opened  with  very  little  scruple  in  Spain,  correspondents  should  be 
cautious,  especially  on  political  subjects.  Letters /row  England  must 
be  prepaid.  A  traveller  may  have  his  addressed  to  him  at  the 
|X)8t-office,  but  it  is  better  to  have  them  directed  to  some  friend  or 
banker,  to  whom  subsequent  instructions  may  be  given  how  and  where 
to  forward  them.  In  the  large  towns  the  names  of  all  persons  for  whom 
any  letters  may  have  arrived  which  are  not  specially  directed  to  a  par- 
ticular address,  are  copied  and  exposed  on  boards  called  las  tahlas  at 
the  post-offices,  in  lists  arranged  alphabetically.  The  inquirer  is  thus 
enabled  to  see  at  once  if  there  be  any  one  for  him  by  referring  to  the 
list  containing  the  first  letter  of  his  name,  and  then  asking  for  the  letter 
by  its  number,  for  one  is  attached  to  each  according  to  the  order  it 


22  VI.   TRAVELLING  BY  LAND — ^DILIGENCES.  Sect  T. 

stands  in  the  list.  He  should  also  look  back  into  the  old  lists,  for  after 
a  certain  time  names  are  taken  from  the  more  recent  arrivals  and 
placed  among  those  which  have  remained  some  weeks  on  the  unclaimed 
board.  He  should  look  over  the  alphabetical  classifications  of  both  his 
Christian  and  surname,  as  ludicrous  mistakes  occur  from  the  difficulty 
Spaniards  have  in  reading  English  handwriting  and  English  names. 
Their  post-masters — ^no  decypherers  of  hieroglyphics — are  sorely  per- 
plexed by  our  truly  Britannic  terminal  title  Esq,:  and  many  a  traveller 
gets  scheduled  away  under  the  letter  E.  Prudent  tourists  should  urge 
home  correspondents,  especially  their  fair  ones,  to  direct  simply,  and  to 
write  the  surname  in  large  and  legible  characters.  The  best  mode, 
while  travelling  in  Spain,  is  to  beg  them  to  adopt  the  Spanish  form — 
"  SeSor  Don  Plantagenet  Smytheville,  Caballero  Ingles."  This  "  taUas^ 
system  occasions  loss  of  time,  temper,  and  letters^  for  any  one  may  ask 
for  those  of  any  other  person  and  get  it,  so  few  precautions  are  taken. 
As  a  rule,  Plantagenet  Smytheville,  Esq.,  should  look  if  there  be  a 
letter  for  him  under  P.  for  Plantagenet,  and  under  S.  for  Smytheville, 
and  under  E.  for  Esquire.  It  is  always  best  to  go  to  the  post-office 
and  make  these  inquiries  in  person,  and,  when  applying  for  letters,  to 
write  the  name  down  legibly,  and  give  it  to  the  empkado,  rather  than 
ask  for  it  viva  voce.  The  traveller  should  always  put  his  own  letters 
into  the  post-office  himself,  especially  those  which  require  prepayment, 
"  qijie  deben  franqtiearse,**  Foreign  servants,  and  still  less  those  hired 
during  a  few  days'  stay  in  a  place,  do  not  always  resist  the  temptation 
of  first  destroying  letters,  and  then  charging  the  postage  as  paid,  and 
pocketing  the  amount.  Travellers,  when  settled  in  a  town,  may,  by 
paying  a  small  fixed  sum  to  the  post-office  clerks,  have  a  separate 
division,  "eZ  apartado,"  and  an  earlier  delivery  of  their  letters. 
Letters  are  generally  sent  for ;  if,  however,  they  be  specially  directed, 
they  are  left  by  a  postman,  "  k  cartero,^'* 

Riding  post  is  called,  from  its  expeditious  nature,  viajar  a  la  ligera ; 
the  traveller  pays  six  reals  a  league  for  his  own,  and  as  much  for  the 
horse  or  mule  of  the  postilion  who  accompanies  him  ;  one  real  less  is 
charged  if  he  be  on  the  royal  service.  Cabinet  couriers,  "  correos  de 
gahmetey*^  have  the  preference  of  horses  at  every  relay.  The  particular 
distances  they  have  to  perform  are  all  timed,  and  so  many  leagues  are 
required  to  be  done  in  a  fixed  time ;  and,  in  order  to  encourage  des- 
patch, for  every  hour  gained  on  the  allowed  time,  an  additional  sum 
was  paid  to  them :  hence  the  common  expression,  "  ganando  hcras,*^ 
gaining  hours.    These  methods  are  getting  obsolete. 

Letters  are  conveyed  on  the  chief  roads  in  mails,  StUas  oorreOy  Stllas 
de  posta ;  the  carriages  take  two  or  three  passengers  on  the  road  from 
Madrid  to  Irun.  The  rate  of  travelling  averages  six  miles  an  hour, 
and,  as  scarcely  any  stoppages  are  allowed,  a  prudent  traveller  will 
attend  to  some  sort  of  *'  proband,"  although  the  less  eaten  and  drank 
on  such  feverish  jaunts  the  better ;  the  fares  will  be  learnt  at  the  post- 
offices  ;  they  average  about  Sd,  a  mile  English.  Very  little  luggage  is 
allowed,  and  extra  weight  is  paid  at  three  reals  the  pound.  No  time 
should  be  lost  in  securing  your  place,  as  these  mails  are  liable  to  be 
full,  especially  in  the  summer  time. 

The  public  coaches  or  diligencias  are  based,  in  form  and  system,  on 


Spain.  yi.  travelling  bt  land — ^diligences.  23 

the  French  diligence,  from  whence  the  name  is  taken  ;  these  copies  are 
preferable  to  their  originals,  inasmuch  as  the  company  who  travel  by 
them,  from  the  difficulties  of  travelling  with  post-horses,  is  of  a  superior 
order  to  those  who  go  by  the  dilly  in  France,  and  the  Spaniard  is 
essentially  much  higher  bred  than  his  neighbour,  and  especially  as 
regards  the  fair  sex.  The  Spanish  diligences  go  pretty  fast,  but  the 
stoppages,  delays,  and  ''  behind  time  "  are  terrible. 

Travelling  in  the  diligenciay  odious  in  itself,  is  subject  to  the  usual 
continental  drags,  hiUeiea,  and  etceteras  previously  to  starting;  the 
prices  are  moderate,  and  vary  according  to  the  places,  the  rotonda,  the 
interior^  the  herlinaj  and  the  coup^ ;  very  little  luggage  is  allowed,  and 
a  heavy  charge  made  for  all  extra.  Be  very  careful  as  to  directions  on 
your  luggage,  avoiding  the  "  £'^.,"  and  have  it  all  registered ;  and  take 
your  place  in  time  too,  as  the  dUigendas  fill  very  much,  especially  during 
summer;  the  passengers  are  under  the  charge  of  a  conductor,  the 
mayoral ;  meals  are  provided  at  the  coaches'  own  baiting  inns  or  para" 
dores^  which  are  sufficient  in  quantity,  endurable  in  cookery,  and  rea- 
souable  in  charges. 

On  those  roads  where  there  are  no  diligences,  recourse  must  be  had 
to  the  original  and  national  modes  of  travelling.  You  can  hire  a  coche 
de  coHeras,  a  huge  sort  of  lord  mayor's  coach,  which  is  drawn  by  half- 
a-dozen  or  more  mules,  and  which  performs  journeys  from  thirty  to 
thirty-five  miles  a-day,  like  an  Italian  vetturino ;  this  is  at  once  a  slow 
and  expensive  mode  of  travel,  but  not  unamusing,  from  the  peculiar 
manner  in  which  cattle  and  carriage  are  driven.  This  picturesque  turn- 
out, like  our  '*  ooach-and-six "  in  Pope's  time,  is  fast  disappearing. 
Those  natives  who  cannot  ajBbrd  this  luxury  resort  to  the  galera,  a  sort 
of  covered  waggon  without  springs,  which,  beiug  of  most  classical  dis- 
comfort, is  to  be  sedulously  avoided,  qtie  diable  aUait  U  fdire  dans  cette 
galere.  Smaller  vehicles,  such  as  calesas  and  tartanaa,  are  also  to  be 
occasionally  hired  for  smaller  distances.    So  much  for  wheels. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  Peninsula,  and  many  of  the  most 
interesting,  untrodden,  unhacknied  localities,  can  only  be  visited  on  the 
back  of  animals  or  on  one's  own  feet.  As  a  pedestrian  tour  for  pleasure 
is  a  thing  utterly  unknown  in  Spain,  it  is  not  to  be  thought  of  for  a 
moment,  while  excursions  on  horseback  are  truly  national,  and  bring 
the  stranger  in  close  contact  with  Spanish  man  and  nature.  He  may 
hire  horses  and  mules  at  most  large  cities,  or  join  the  caravans  of  the 
regular  muleteers  and  carriers  who  ply  from  fixed  places  to  others. 
These  arrieros  (arre — arabice  "gee  up"),  cosarios  y  ordvnarioa,  have 
their  well-known  inns  or  houses  of  call  and  stated  days  of  arrival  and 
departure :  moderate  in  their  charges,  they  are  seldom  molested  by  rob- 
bers on  the  road.  Those  who  can  only  ride  on  an  English  saddle  should 
procure  one  before  starting,  and  every  man  will  do  well  to  bring  out  a 
good  pair  of  English  spurs,  with  some  spare  sets  of  rowels,  and  attend 
to  their  efficient  sharpness,  for  the  hide  of  a  Spanish  beast  is  hard  aud 
unimpressionable.  Heavy  luggage  may  always  be  sent  from  town  to 
town  by  the  arrieroSy  whose  recuas  de  acemilaSj  or  droves  of  baggage- 
mules,  do  the  office  of  our  goods-train. — N.B.  Remember  to  be  careful 
in  the  directions,  to  take  a  receipt  and  forward  it  per  post  to  the  person 
to  whom  your  articles  are  addressed,  desiring  him  to  call  for  them. 
The  muleteers  cf  Spain  form  a  class  of  themselves,  and  are  honest, 


24  VII.  SPANISH  INNS.  Sect.  I. 

trustworthy,  and  hard-working ;  full  of  songs,  yams,  lies,  and  incorrect 
local  information. 

It  cannot  be  said  that  their  animals  are  pleasant  to  ride,  nor  indeed 
are  the  hacks,  TiacaSy  and  cattle  usually  let  for  hire  much  better ;  to 
those,  therefore,  who  propose  making  an  extensive  riding  tour,  especially 
in  the  W.  provinces,  the  better  plan  is  to  perform  it  on  their  own 
animals,  the  masters  on  horses,  the  attendants  on  mules.  The  chief 
points  in  such  journeys  are  to  take  as  few  traps  as  possible,  trunks — r 
the  impedimenta  of  travellers — are  thorns  in  his  path,  who  passes  more 
lightly  and  pleasantly  by  sending  the  heavier  luggage  on  from  town  to 
town ;  "  attend  also  to  the  provend,"  as  the  commissariat.^a&  ever  been 
the  difficulty  in  hungry  and  thirsty  Spain.  Each  master  should  have 
his  own  Alforjas  or  saddle-bags,  in  which  he  will  stow  aia^ay  whatever 
is  absolutely  necessary  to  his  own  immediate  wants  and  comforts,  strap-r 
ping  his  cloak  or  manta  over  it.  ITie  servant  should  be  mounted  on^a 
stout  mule,  and  provided  with  strong  and  capacious  capachos  de  esparto^' 
or  peculiar  baskets  made  of  the  Spanish  rush  ;  one  side  maybe  dedicated 
to  the  wardrobe,  the  other  to  the  larder ;  and  let  neither  master  nor  man 
omit  to  take  a  hota  or  leather  wine-bottle  or  forget  to  keep  it  full ;  spare 
sets  of  shoes  with  nails  and  hammer  are  also  essential.  But  when 
once  off  the  beaten  tracks,  those  travellers  who  make  up  their  minds 
to  find  nothing  on  the  road  but  discomfort  will  be  the  least  likely 
to  be  disappointed,  while  by  being  prepared  and  forearmed  they  will 
overcome  every  difficulty  —  hombre  prevenido,  nunca  fu  vencido,  a 
little  foresight  and  provision  gives  small  trouble  and  ensures  great 
comfort.  The  sooner  all  who  start  on  riding  tours  can  speak  Spanish 
themselves  th*l  better,  as  polyglott  travelling  servants  are  apt  to  be 
rogues  ;  a  retired  cavalry  soldier  is  a  good  man  to  take,  as  he  under- 
stands horses,  and  knows  how  to  forage  in  districts  where  rations  are 
rare.  Few  soldiers  are  more  sober,  patient,  and  enduring  of  fatigue 
than  the  Spanish  ;  six  reals  a  day,  food,  lodging,  and  some  dress,  with 
a  tip  at  the  end,  will  be  ample  pay.  He  must  be  treated  with  civility, 
and  abusive  speech  avoided. 

VII. — Spanish  Inns. 

The  increase  and  improvement  of  public  conveyances,  by  leading  to 
increased  travel  and  traffic,  has  caused  some  corresponding  change  for  the 
better  in  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  houses  destined  to  the  accommo- 
dation of  wayfaring  men  and  beasts.  As  they  are  constantly  changing, 
it  is  not  easy  to  give  their  names  in  every  place.  These  conveniences 
are  of  varied  denominations,  degrees,  and  goodness,  or  they  may  be 
divided  into  the  bad,  the  worse,  and  the  worst — and  bad  is  the  best :  first 
is  the  Fonda  (the  oriental  Fundack),  which  is  the  assumed  equivalent  to 
our  hotel,  as  in  it  lodging  and  board  are  furnished ;  second  is  the  Posada, 
in  which,  strictly  speaking,  only  the  former  is  provided ;  thirdly  comes 
the  Venta,  which  is  a  sort  of  inferior  posada  of  the  country,  as  distin- 
guished from  the  town  ;  at  both  Posada  and  Venta  the  traveller  finds 
the  means  of  cooking  whatever  provisions  he  has  brought  with  him,  or 
can  forage  on  the  spot,  and  he  is  charged  in  the  morning  a  moderate 
sum  for  the  ruido  de  casa,  the  noise  or  row  which  he  is  supposed  to 
^ave  kicked  up  in  the  peaceful  dwelling.    These  khans  are  generally 

derless,  although  the  ventero,  as  in  Don  Quixote's  time,  will  answer, 


Spain,  viiT.  SPANISH  bobbers.  25 

when  asked  what  he  has  got,  Ilay  de  todoy  there  is  everything ;  but 
de  io  que  V.  irate,  "  of  what  yon  bring  with  you,"  must  be  understood. 

The  traveller,  when  he  arrives  at  one  of  these  Posadas,  especially  iu 
rarely  visited  places,  should  be  courteous  and  liberal  in  using  little 
conventional  terms  of  civility,  and  not  begin  by  ordering  and  hurrying 
people  about ;  he  will  thus  be  met  more  than  half  way,  and  obtain  the 
best  quarters  and  accommodation  that  are  to  be  had.  Spaniards,  who 
are  not  to  be  driven  by  a  rod  of  iron,  may  be  tickled  and  led  by  a 
straw.  Treat  them  as  cabaUeroSj  and  they  are  of  a  high  caste,  and 
they  generally  behave  themselves  as  such.  No  man  who  values  a 
night's  rest  will  omit  on  arrival  to  look  at  once  after  his  bed :  a  cigar  for 
the  mozo,  a  compliment  to  the  rmicJiacha,  and  a  tip,  una  gratificacioncita, 
seldom  fail  to  conciliate,  and  secure  comfort. 

The  "  ventoTitto  "  is  a  minor  class  of  venta,  and  often  nothing  more 
than  a  mere  hut,  run  up  with  reeds  or  branches  of  trees  by  the  rotid- 
side,  at  which  water,  bad  wine,  and  worse  brandy,  aguardiente,  true 
aqua  ardens,  disfavoured  with  aniseed,  are  to  be  sold.  In  out-of-the- 
way  districts  the  traveller,  in  the  matter  of  inns,  will  seldom  be  per- 
plexed with  any  difficulty  of  selection  as  to  the  relative  goodness ;  the 
golden  rule  will  be  to  go  to  the  one  where  the  diligence  puts  up— i:.? 
Farador  de  las  Dtligendas.  The  simple  direction,  "  vamos  a  Ixi  Po- 
sada," let  us  go  to  THE  inn,  will  be  enough  in  smaller  town^ffor  the 
question  is  rather,  Hay  posada,  y  donde  estd  f  Is  there  an  inn,  and 
where  is  it  ?  than  Which  is  the  best  inn  ? 

2f.B,  AH  who  travel  with  ladies  are  advised  to  write  beforehand  to 
their  banker  or  friends  to  secure  quarters  in  some  hotel,  evpedaUy  when 
going  to  Madrid  and  the  larger  cities. 

The  char«;es  of  the  native  inns  are  not  exorbitant ;  generally  by  a 
dollar  to  two  dollars  a-day,  bed  and  board  are  paid  for ;  where,  however, 
establishments  are  set  up  on  what  is  called  the  English  or  French  system, 
foreign  prices  are  demanded,  and  very  considerable  ones,  considering 
the  poor  and  copied  accommodation.  Those  who  propose  remaining  any 
time  in  a  large  town  may  make  their  own  bargain  with  the  innkeeper, 
or  can  go  into  a  boarding-house,  "  ca>»a  de  pupilos,^  or  **  de  huespedes,^ 
where  they  will  have  the  best  opportunity  of  learning  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage, and  obtaining  an  idea  of  the  national  manners  and  habits.  These 
establishments  are  constantly  advertised  in  the  local  newspapers,  and 
the  houses  ma^^e  known  externally  by  a  white  paper  ticket  attached 
to  the  extremit^^ ',one  of  the  window  balconies ;  for  if  the  paper  be 
placed  in  the  middle,  it  only  means  "  lodgings  to  let  here."  The  tra- 
veller will  always  be  able  to  learn  from  his  banker,  or  from  any  respect- 
able inhabitant,  which  of  these  boarding-houses  enjoys  the  best  reputa- 
tion, or  he  may  himself  advertise  in  the  papers  for  exactly  the  sort  of 
thing  he  wants. 

Yin. — Spanish  Bobbebs. 

Banditti  have  long  been  the  bugbear  of  Spain,  for  a  bad  name  once 
gotten  is  not  easily  removed,  and  still  less  when  the  conventional  idea 
is  kept  up  by  sundry  writers  in  England  who  instruct  the  public  on  the 
things  of  Spain,  where  they  have  never  been,  and  feed  foregone  conclu- 

Spain.— I.  o 


26  VIII.   SPANISH  ROBBERS.  Sect.  I. 

sions.  Uudoubtedly  on  the  long  highways  of  a  thinly-peopled  land 
accidents  may  occur,  as  Spanish  gentlemen  who  have  met  with  mis- 
fortunes in  troubled  times  will  take  to  the  road.  But  robbery  is  the 
exception,  rather  than  the  rule,  in  Spain ;  and  latterly  precautions  have 
been  so  increased  that  some  ingenuity  must  be  displayed  in  managing 
to  get  waylaid  and  pillaged — ^not  that  to  the  very  ambitious  for  such 
events,  or  to  the  imprudent  and  incautious,  the  thing  is  altogether  im- 
possible. The  experiment  might  be  tried  with  prospect  of  success  in 
Andalucia,  taking  Honda  as  the  centre  of  a  robbing  radius. 

Referring  to  the  *  Gatherings,'  ch.  16,  for  other  details,  suffice  it  here 
to  say  that  the  best  plan  is  for  the  traveller  never  to  trouble  his  head 
about  the  matter,  nor  to  frighten  himself  with  shadows  of  his  own 
raising ;  let  him  turn  a  deaf  ear  to  the  yams  of  muleteers  and  the  posi- 
tive facts  of  waiters,  and  ride  boldly  on ;  nevertheless  he  will  do  well  in 
suspicious  places  to  abjure  foolish  chattering  about  his  plans,  lines  of 
route,  hours  of  starting,  and  so  forth,  and  still  more  to  avoid  any  exhi- 
bition of  cash  and  attractive  items  of  property,  silver  dressing-cases, 
and  so  forth,  which  often  suggest  the  getting  up  an  extempore  bit 
of  robbery  for  his  particular  benefit,  for  in  Spain,  as  elsewhere,  la  ocasion 
Jiace  cd  ladrcn.  Again,  should  he  have  the  misfortune  to  fall  among 
regular  thieves,  he  ought  to  be  prepared  with  a  sufficient  sum  about 
his  person,  say  from  5Z.  to  lOZ.,  in  order  to  keep  them  in  good  humour, 
as  they  are  prone  to  make  an  example  of  the  unhappy  wight  who 
evinces,  by  empty  pockets,  the  malice  prepense  of  depriving  them  of 
their  just  perquisite ;  an  empty  puree  is  a  beggarly  companion,  and 
they  are  apt  to  inflict  blows  on  its  proprietor,  danddk  polos,  or  to  strip 
him  to  the  skin,  ecJiandole  en  cueros,  pour  encourager  les  autres.  A 
common  gilt  watch  and  chain  ought  not  to  be  omittied.  Englishmen, 
except  when  well  armed  and  travelling  in  numbers,  should  never  attempt 
resistance  against  a  regular  band  of  Spanish  robbers,  as  it  is  generally 
useless,  and  may  lead  to  fatal  consequences :  whereas  a  frank,  good- 
humoured  surrender,  presence  of  miud,  and  a  calm,  courteous  appeal  to 
them  as  Cahalleros,  seldom  fails  to  conciliate  the  "  gentlemen,**  and  to 
chloroform  the  discomfort  of  the  operation .  The  robbers  consist  of  several 
grades.  The  Ladrones  en  grande  are  an  organised  gang  of  well-mounted, 
well-armed  men  from  10  to  14  in  number,  and  commanded  by  a  chief, 
and  as  they  seldom  attack  travellers  except  at  a  great  advantage,  it  is 
better  to  lose  one's  dollars  than  one's  life,  and  to  submit  with  a  good 
grace  to  the  polite  request  of  puttinoj  your  face,  mouth  downwards,  into 
the  mud, — the  Bqfa  abajo,  which  will  take  no  denial ;  in  fact,  the  non- 
compliance is  understood  to  mean  resistance  ;  and  cases  have  occurred 
where  foreigners,  from  not  understanding  the  force  of  these  two  words, 
and  not  having  laid  themselves  down,  hive  been  shot  forthwith. 

The  next  c£ss  are  the  Bateros,  the  rats.  These  are  not  organised 
permanent  bodies,  but  skulking,  ill-conditioned  footpads,  who  lurk 
about  suspicious  ventas,  on  the  look-out  for  an  accidental  affair.  They 
seldom  attack  armed  and  prepared  persons,  A  lower  ruffian  still  is  the 
BateriUo,  or  spiall  rat,  who  is  a  solitary  performer,  confining  his  attacks 
to  the  utterly  defenceless.  A  revolver  is  a  sure  remedy  for  these 
major  and  minor  rats  ;  and  no  bad  pocket-companion  on  the  highways 
and  byways  of  Spain,  as  contributing  to  a  general  feeling  of  confidence. 


JSpain,  IX.    THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  SPAIN.  27 

The  regular  and  only  really  formidable  robbers  have  almost  disap- 
peared on  the  high  roads,  in  consequence  of  the  institution  of  a  body 
of  mounted  and  well-armed  men,  who  are  stationed  in  the  princi])al 
routes  as  escorts  and  patrols.  They  are  called  Guardias  civileSy  to  dis- 
tinguish them  from  military  guards.  The  system  was  borrowed  from 
the  gendarmerie  of  France,  whence  the  troopers  were  called  by  the 
people  Hijos  de  Lins-Felipe,  sons  of  Louis- Philippe,  or  Folizones,  a  new 
word  coined  out  of  the  old  French  Foiissons,  Diligences  in  periods  and 
localities  of  danger  are  usually  provided  with  guards  of  their  own,  and 
there  is  also  in  most  large  towns  a  body  of  armed  men  on  foot,  called 
Migudites,  whose  business  it  is  to  keep  the  peace,  and  by  whom  convoys 
•ef  value  and  travellers  of  rank  are  escorted.  They  resemble  the 
Peelers,  the  police  in  Ireland,  and  are  formed  of  active,  excellent  men, 
l»rave,  temperate,  and  indefatigable.  There  are  also  few  places  in 
which  an  extempore  protection  may  not  be  hired  of  Esoopeteros^  or  men 
^rmed  with  a  gun,  which  in  truth  is  the  definition  of  half  the  Iberian 
family  when  outside  a  town's  walls.  Except  when  ladies  are  in  the 
case,  and  the  localities  are  notoriously  infested  for  the  moment,  all 
these  precautions  are  needless.  A  riding  party  of  armed  Englishmen 
may  dismiss  the  bugbear  altogether,  from  the  Pyrenees  to  the  Straits 
of  Gibraltar.  In  general  Spanish  robbers  are  shy  of  attacking  English" 
men  :  they  have  a  wholesome  fear  of  the  strength  of  our  gunpowder, 
and  of  our  disposition  to  show  fight. 

IX. — The  Geography  op  Spain. 

One  glance  at  a  map  of  Europe  will  convey  a  clearer  notion  of  the 
relative  position  of  Spain  in  regard  to  other  countries  than  pages  d 
letter -press ;  an  advantage  which  every  school-boy  possesses  over  the 
Plinys  and  Strabos  of  antiquity,  who  were  content  to  compare  the  i^pe 
of  the  Peninsula  to  a  bull's  hide.  This  country,  placed  between  the 
latitudes  36^  57  and  43°  40^  north,  extends  from  longitude  9°  13'  west 
to  30^  15'  east:  the  extreme  length  has  been  calculated  at  about 
200  leagues  of  20  to  the  degree,  and  the  greatest  breadth  at  somewhat 
less  tha^  200 ;  and  the  whole  superficies,  including  Portugal,  is  stated 
to  contain  upwards  of  19,000  square  leagues,  of  wMch  somewhat  more 
than  15,500  belong  to  Spain ;  it  is  thus  almost  twice  as  large  as  the 
British  Islands,  and  only  one-tenih  smaller  than  France  ;  the  circum- 
ference or  coast-line  is  estimated  at  some  750  leagues.  This  compact 
and  isolated  territory,  inhabited  by  a  hardy,  warlike  population,  ought, 
therefore,  to  have  rivalled  France  in  military  power,  while  its  position 
between  those  two  great  seas  which  command  the  commerce  of  the  old 
and  new  world,  its  indented  line  of  coast,  abounding  in  bays  and 
harbours,  offered  every  advantage  of  vying  with  England  in  maritime 
enterprise.  Nature  has  provided  outlets  for  the  productions  of  a  country 
rich  alike  in  everything  that  is  to  be  found  either  on  the  face,  or  in  the 
bowels  of  the  earth ;  the  mines  and  quarries  abound  with  precious 
metals  and  marbles,  from  gold  to  iron,  from  the  agate  to  coal ;  a  fertile 
soil  and  every  possible  variety  of  climate  admit  of  unlimited  cultivation 
of  the  natural  productions  of  the  temperate  or  tropical  zones :  thus  in 
the  province  ot  Granada  the  sugar-cane  and  cotton-tree  luxuriate  at  the 

c  2 


28  IX.   DIVISIONS  INTO  ZONES.  Sect.  I. 

base  of  ranges  whose  tops  are  covered  with  eternal  snow.  The  unremit- 
ting bad  government  of  the  Gotho-Spaniard  has  done  its  worst  to  neu- 
tralise the  advantages  of  this  favoured  land,  which,  while  under  the 
dominion  of  the  Romans  and  Moors,  resembled  an  Eden,  a  garden  of 
plenty  and  delight.  Now  vast  portions  of  the  Peninsula  offer  a  picture 
painful  to  be  contemplated  by  the  philosopher  or  philanthropist :  the 
face  of  nature  and  the  minds  of  men,  dwarfed  and  curtailed  of  their  fair 
proportions,  have  either  been  neglected  and  their  inherent  fertility 
allowed  to  run  into  luxuriant  wec^  and  vice,  or  their  energies  misdi- 
rected, and  a  capability  of  good  converted  into  an  element  of  disgraceful 
eminence  in  deeds  of  evil. 

In  geological  construction,  Spain,  almost  an  agglomeration  of  moun- 
tains, is  raised  in  a  series  of  elevation  terraces  on  every  side  from  the 
coasts ;  the  central  portions,  higher  than  any  other  table-lands  in  Europe, 
range  on  an  average  from  2000  to  3000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
while  from  this  elevated  plain  chains  of  other  mountains  rise.  Madrid, 
placed  on  this  central  plateau,  is  situated  about  2000  feet  above  the 
level  of  Naples,  which  lies  in  the  same  latitude ;  the  mean  temperature 
of  the  former  is  69°,  while  that  of  the  latter  is  63°  3a  ;  it  is  to,  this 
difference  of  elevation  that  the  difference  of  climate  and  vegetable 
productions  between  the  two  capitals  is  to  be  ascribed. 

Fruits  which  flourish  on  the  coasts  of  Provence  and  Genoa,  which 
lie  4°  more  to  the  north  than  any  xx)rtion  of  Spain,  are  rarely  to  be  met 
with  in  the  interior  of  the  elevated  Peninsula :  on  the  other  hand,  the 
low  and  simny  maritime  belts  abound  with  productions  of  an  African 
vegetation ;  and  botany  marks  climate  better  than  barometers  or  ther- 
mometers. The  mountainous  character  and  general  aspect  of  the  coast 
is  nearly  analogous  throughout  the  circuit  which  extends  from  the 
Basque  Provinces  to  Cape  Finisterre,  and  offers  a  remarkable  contract 
to  those  sunny  alluvial  plains  which  extend,  more  or  less,  from  Cadiz 
to  Barcelona,  and  which  closely  resemble  each  other  in  vegetable  pro- 
ductions, such  as  the  fig,  orange,  pomegranate,  aloe,  and  palm-tree. 
Again,  the  central  table-lands,  las  Farameras^  equally  resemble  each 
other  in  their  monotonous  denuded  aspect,  in  their  scarcity  of  fruit  and 
timber,  and  their  abundance  of  cereal  productions. 

Spanish  geographers  have  divided  the  Peninsula  into  seven  distinct 
chains  of  mountains.  These  cordiUeras  arise  on  each  side  of  intervening 
plains,  which  once  formed  the  basins  of  internal  lakes,  until  the  accu- 
mulated waters,  by  bursting  through  the  obstructions  by  which  they 
were  dammed  up,  found  a  passage  to  the  ocean :  the  dip  or  inclination 
of  the  country  lies  from  the  east  towards  the  west,  and,  accordingly,  the 
chief  rivers  which  form  the  drains  of  the  great  leading  channels  between 
the  principal  water-sheds  flow  into  the  Atlantic :  their  courses,  like  the 
basins  through  which  they  pass,  lie  in  a  transversal  and  almost  a 
parallel  direction  ;  thus  the  Duero,  the  Tagus,  the  Guadiana,  and  the 
Guadalquivir,  all  flow  into  their  recipient  between  their  distinct  chains 
of  mountains. 

The  Moorish  geographer  Alrasi  took  climate  as  the  rule  of  dividing 

the  Peninsula  into  distinct  portions.     The  first  or  norfJiem  zone  is  the 

Oantahrian,  the  European ;  this  portion  skirts  the  base  of  the  Pyrenees, 

.^    includes  portions  of  Catalonia,  Arragon,  and  Navarre,  the  Basque  pro- 


Spain.  IX.  divisions  into  zones.  29 

viuces,  the  Asturias,  and  Gallicia.  In  this  region  of  humidity  the 
winters  are  long,  and  the  springs  and  autumns  rainy,  and  it  should 
only  be  visited  in  the  summer.  This  country  of  hill  and  dale  is  inter- 
sected by  streams,  which  abound  in  fish,  and  which  irrigate  rich 
meadows  for  pasture.  The  valleys  form  the  dairy  country  of  Spain, 
while  the  mountains  furnish  valuable  and  available  timber.  In  some 
parts  com  will  scarcely  ripen,  while  in  others,  in  addition  to  the 
cerealia,  cider  and  an  ordinary  wine  are  produced.  Inhabited  by  a 
hardy,  independent,  and  rarely  subdued  population,  these  mountainous 
regions  offer  natural  means  of  defence.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  the 
conquest  with  a  small  army,  while  a  large  one  starves  for  want  of  sup- 
port in  the  hungry  localities.  The  second  zone,  the  Iberian  or  the 
eastern,  in  its  maritime  portions,  is  more  Asiatic  than  European,  the 
inhabitants  partake  of  the  Greek  and  Carthaginian  character,  being 
false,  cruel,  and  treacherous,  yet  lively,  ingenious,  and  fond  of  pleasure : 
this  portion  commences  at  Burgos,  and  is  continued  through  the  Sierras 
of  Albarracin  and  Segura  to  the  Cabo  de  Gata,  and  includes  the  southern 
portion  of  Catalonia  and  Arragon,  with  parts  of  Castile,  Valencia, 
and  Murcia.  The  sea-coasts  should  be  visited  either  in  the  spring 
or  autumn,  when  they  are  delicious.  ITiey  are  intensely  hot  in  the 
summer,  and  infested  with  myriads  of  muskitoes.  The  districts  about 
Burgos  should  be  avoided  as  being  cold,  except  during  the  summer 
months.  Thus  the  upper  valley  of  the  Mino  and  some  of  the  north- 
w^estern  portions  of  Old  Castile  and  Leon  are  placed  about  >  6000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  frosts  often  last  for  three  months  at 
a  time. 

The  third  zoney  the  Lusitanian,  or  western,  by  far  the  largest, 
includes  the  central  parts  of  Spain  and  all  Portugal ;  and  in  the  physical 
condition  of  the  soil  and  the  moral  qualities  of  the  inhabitants,  portions 
present  an  imfavourable  view  of  the  Peninsula:  the  inland  steppes 
are  burnt  up  by  summer  suns,  tempest  and  wind-rent  during  winter, 
while  the  absence  of  trees  exposes  them  to  the  violence  of  the  ele- 
ments ;  poverty-stricken  mud-houses,  scattered  here  and  there  in  the 
desolate  extent,  afford  a  wretched  home  to  a  poor,  proud,  and  ignorant 
population.  These  localities,  which  offer  in  themselves  little  pleasure 
or  profit  to  the  stranger,  contain  however  many  sites  and  cities  of  the 
highest  interest.  Thus  New  Castile,  the  sovereign  province,  besides 
the  capital  Madrid,  comprehends  Toledo,  the  Escorial,  Segovia,  xVranjuez, 
Avila,  Cuenca,  which  none  who  wish  to  understand  Spain  and  the 
genuine  old  Castilian  cities  can  possibly  pass  by  unnoticed. 

llie  more  western  portions  of  this  Lusitanian  zone  are  much  more 
surreeable ;  the  ilex  and  chestnut  abound  in  the  hills,  while  the  rich 
plains  produce  com  and  wine  most  plentifully,  llie  entire  central 
table-lsmd  occupies  about  93,000  square  miles,  and  forms  nearly  one- 
half  of  the  entire  area  of  the  Peninsula.  The  peculiarity  of  the  climate 
is  its  dryness ;  rain  is  so  rare,  that  the  annual  quantity  on  an  average 
does  not  amount  to  more  than  10  inches.  The  olive,  however,  is  only 
to  be  met  with  in  a  few  and  favoured  localities.  The  fourth  zone^  the 
Boetican,  the  most  southern  and  African,  coasts  the  Mediterranean, 
basking  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  which  rise  behind  and  form  the 
mass  of  the  Peninsula;  this  mural  barrier  offers  a  sure  protection 


30  IX.   HILLS  AND  PASSES  OF  SPAIN.  Sect.  I^ 

against  the  cold  winds  which  sweep  across  the  central  region.  The 
descent  from  the  tahle  elevations  into  these  maritime  strips  is  striking  ; 
the  face  of  nature  is  quickly  and  completely  changed,  and  the  traveller 
passes  from  the  climate  and  vegetation  of  Europe  into  that  of  Africa. 
This  region  is  characterised  by  a  dry  burning  atmosphere  during  a  part  of* 
the  year.  The  winters  are  short  and  temperate,  the  springs  and  autumns- 
quite  delightful.  Much  of  the  cultivation  depends  on  artificial 
irrigation,  which  was  carried  by  the  Moors  to  the  highest  perfection  ; 
indeed  water,  under  this  forcing,  vivifying  sun,  is  synonymous  with 
fertility  ;  the  productions  are  tropical ;  sugar,  cotton,  rice ;  the  orange, 
lemon,  and  date.  The  algaroha- — ceratonia  siliquastrum — and  the 
adel/af  the  oleander,  form  the  boundary  marks  between  this,  the  tierra 
caliente,  and  the  colder  regions  by  which  it  is  encompassed.  Such  are 
the  geographical  divisions  of  nature  with  which  the  vegetable  and  animal 
productions  are  closely  connected.  The  Boetican  zone,  Andalucia,. 
contains  in  itself  many  of  the  most  interesting  cities,  sites,  and  natural 
beauties  of  the  Peninsula.  Cadiz,  Gibraltar,  Ronda,  Malaga,  the  Alpu- 
jarras,  Granada,  Cordova,  Seville,  Xerez,  are  easy  of  access,  and  may  be 
visited  almost  at  every  portion  of  the  year.  The  winters  may  be  spent 
at  Cadiz,  Seville,  or  Malaga,  the  summers  in  the  cool  mountains  of 
Eonda,  Aracena,  or  Granada.  April,  May,  and  June,  or  September, 
October,  and  November,  will,  however,  be  the  most  preferable.  Those 
who  go  in  the  spring  should  reserve  June  for  the  mountains ;  those  who 
go  in  the  autumn  should  reverse  the  plan,  and  commence  with  Ronda 
and  Granada,  ending  with  Malaga,  Seville,  and  Cadiz  ;  and  this  region 
will  be  found  by  the  invalid  infinitely  superior  as  a  winter  residence 
than  any  portions  of  the  South  of  France  or  Italy. 

The  internal  communication  of  the  Peninsula,  thus  divided  by  the 
mountain- walls  of  CcyrdiUeras,  is  effected  by  high  roads,  carried  over  the 
most  convenient  points,  where  the  natural  dips  are  the  lowest,  and  the 
ascents  and  descents  the  most  practicable.  As  a  general  rule,  the 
traveller  should  always  cross  the  mountains  by  one  of  these.  .The 
goat-paths  and  smuggler-passes  over  other  portions  of  the  chain  are 
difficult  and  dangerous,  and  seldom  provided  with  villages  or  ventas  i 
the  farthest  but  fairest  way  about,  will  generally  be  found  the  best  and 
shortest  road.  These  passes  are  called  Ptiertos — ^ortce* — mountain- 
gates  :  the  precise  ghaut  of  the  Hindoos. 

The  term  Sierra,  which  is  commonly  applied  to  these  serrated  ranges, 
has  been  derived  from  the  Spanish  sierra,  a  saw ;  while  others  refer  it 
to  the  Arabic  Sehrah,  an  uncultivated  tract.  Montana  means  a  moun- 
tain ;  Cerro  a  hog-backed  hill ;  jpico,  jpica^iko,  a  pointed  height.  Una 
cuesta,  a  much-used  expression,  means  both  an  ascent  and  descent. 
Ctiesta  arriba,  cuesta  abajo,  up  hill,  down  hill.  There  are  few  of  the 
singular-shaped  hills  which  have  not  some  local  name,  such  as  Cabeza 
del  Moro,  the  Moor's  head ;  or  something  connected  with  religion,  such 
as  San  Ohristohal,  El  Fraile,  &e. 

There  are  6  great  rivers  in  Spain — the  arteries  which  run  between 
the  7  mountain-chains,  the  vertebrae  of  the  geological  skeleton.  These 
6  water-sheds  are  each  intersected  in  their  extent  by  others  on  a  minor 
scale,  by  valleys  and  indentations  in  each  of' which  runs  its  own 
Stream.  Thus  the  rains  and  melted  snows  are  all  collected  in  an  infinity 


Spain.  IX.  RIVERS  of  SPAIN.  81 

of  ramifications,  and  carried  by  these  tributary  conduits  into  one  of  the 
6  main  trunks,  or  great  rivers :  all  these,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Ebro,  empty  themselves  into  the  Atlantic.  The  Duero  and  Tagus, 
nnfortunately  for  Spain,  disembogue  in  Portugal,  thus  becoming  a 
portion  of  a  foreign  dominion  exactly  where  their  commercial  import- 
ance is  the  greatest.  Philip  II.  "  the  prudent,"  saw  the  true  value  of 
the  possession  of  Portugal,  which  rounded  and  consolidated  Spain,  and 
insured  to  her  the  possession  of  these  outlets  of  internal  produce,  and 
inlets  for  external  commerce.  Portugal,  that  angiUus  iste,  annexed  to 
Spain,  gave  more  real  power  to  his  throne  than  the  dominion  of  entire 
continents  across  the  Atlantic.  Kor  has  the  vision  of  a  Peninsular 
union  ever  faded  from  the  cabinets  of  Spain.  The  Mino^  Which  is  the 
shortest  of  these  rivers,  runs  through  a  bosom  of  fertility.  The  Tajo^ 
Tagus,  which  the  fancy  of  poets  has  sanded  with  gold  and  embanked 
wifli  roses,  tracks  its  dreary  way  through  rocks  and  comparative 
barrenness.  The  Quadiana  creeps  through  lonely  Estremadura,  in- 
fecting the  low  plains  with  miasma  and  ague.  The  OuadcUquimr  eats 
out  its  deep  banks  amid  the  sunny  olive-clad  regions  of  Andalucia. 

Spain  abounds  with  brackish  streams,  Saladosy  and  with  salt-mines, 
the  remnants  of  the  saline  deposits,  after  the  evaporation  of  the  sea- 
waters.  The  central  soil,  strongly  impregnated  with  saltpetre,  and 
always  arid,  is  every  day  becoming  more  so,  from  the  Castilian  antipathy 
against  trees.  No  skreen  checks  the  power  of  evaporation ;  nothing 
protects  or  preserves  moisture^  The  soil,  more  and  more  baked  and 
calcined,  has  in  some  parts  almost  ceased  to  be  available  for  cultivation  t 
from  want  of  plantations  and  dykes  the  slopes  are  liable  to  denudation  of 
soil  after  heavy  rain.  Nothing  breaks  the  descent  of  the  water ;  hence 
the  naked,  barren  stone  summits  of  many  of  the  sierras,  which,  pared 
and  peeled  of  every  particle  capable  of  nourishing  vegetation,  loom 
forth,  the  skeletons  of  a  land  in  which  life  seems  extinct ;  not  only  is 
the  soil  thus  lost,  but  the  detritus  thus  washed  down  forms  bars  at  the 
mouths  of  rivers,  or  chokes  up  and  raises  their  beds ;  thus  they  are 
rendered  liable  to  overflow  their  banks,  and  to  convert  the  adjoining 
plains  into  i)estilential  swamps.  The  volume  of  water  iu  the  principal 
rivers  of  Spain  has  diminished,  .and  is  diminishing.  Kivers  which  once 
were  navigable,  are  so  no  longer,  while  the  artificial  canals  which  were  to 
have  been  substituted  remain  unfinished :  the  progress  of  deterioration 
advances,  as  little  is  done  to  counteract  or  amend  what  every  year 
must  render  more  difficult  and  expensive,  while  the  means  of  repair 
and  correction  will  diminish  in  equal  proportion,  from  the  poverty  occa- 
sioned by  the  evil,  and  by  the  fearful  extent  which  it  will  be  allowed 
to  attain.  The  majority  of  Spanish  rivers — torrents  rather — scanty 
during  the  summer  time,  flow  away  with  rapidity  when  filled  by  rains 
or  melting  snow ;  they  are,  moreover,  much  exhausted  by  being  drained 
off,  sangradoy  bled,  for  the  pxirposes  of  artificial  irrigation.  The  scarcity 
of  rain  in  the  central  table-lands  diminishes  the  regular  supply  of  water 
to  the  springs  of  the  rivers ;  and  what  falls  is  soon  sucked  up  by  a 
parched,  dusty,  and  thirsty  soil,  or  evaporated  by  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere.  An  absence  of  lakes  forms  another  feature  in  this  country 
of  mountains. 

These  geographical  peculiarities  of  Spain  must  be  remembered  by 
tbe  traveller,  and  particularly  the  existence  of  the  great  central  elev 


32  IX.   CLIMATE  OF  CENTRAL  SPAIN.  Sect.  I. 

tion,  which,  when  once  attained,  is  apt  to  be  forgotten.  The  country 
rises  in  terraces  from  the  coast,  and  when  once  the  ascent  is  accom- 
plished, no  real  descent  takes  places.  The  roads  indeed  apparently  ascend 
and  descend,  but  the  mean  height  is  seldom  diminished,  and  the  in- 
terior hills  or  plains  are  merely  the  undulations  of  one  mountain. 
The  traveller  is  often  deceived  at  the  apparent  low  height  of  snow- 
,  clad  ranges,  such  as  the  Guadarama,  whose  coldness  will  be  accounted 
for  by  adding  the  elevation  of  their  base  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  palace  of  the  Escorial,  which  is  placed  at  the  foot  of  the  Gua- 
darama, and  in  a  seeming  plain,  stands  in  reality  at  2725  feet  above 
Valencia,  while  the  summer  residence  of  the  king  at  La  Oranja,  in 
the  same  chain,  is  30  feet  higher  than  the  summit  of  Vesuvius.  This, 
indeed,  is  a  castle  in  the  air — a  chateau  en  Espagne,  and  worthy  of 
the  most  German  potentate  to  whom  that  element  belongs.  The  mean 
temperature  on  the  plateau  of  Spain  is  as  15°,  while  that  of  the  coast 
is  as  18^  and  19°,  in  addition  to  the  protection  from  northern  winds 
which  their  mountainous  backgrounds  afford  ;  nor  is  the  traveller  less 
deceived  as  regards  the  height  of  the  interior  mountains  than  he  is 
with  the  table-land  plains ;  his  tiye  wanders  over  a  vast  level  extent 
bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  or  a  faint  blue  line  of  other  distant 
sierras ;  this  space,  which  appears  one  level,  is  intersected  with  deep 
ravines,  harrancos,  in  which  villages  lie  concealed,  and  streams,  arroyos, 
flow  unperceived  ;  ancfther  important  effect  of  this  central  elevation  is 
the  searching  dryness  and  rarefication  of  the  air.  It  is  often  highly 
prejudicial  to  strangers  :  the  least  exposure,  which  is  very  tempting 
under  a  burning  sun,  will  bring  on  ophthalmia,  irritable  colics,  and 
inflammatory  diseases  of  the  lungs  and  vital  organs.  Such  are  the 
causes  of  the  pulmonia  (the  endemic  disease  of  Madrid),  which  carries 
off  the  invalid  in  a  few  days. 

These  are  the  geographical,  geological,  and  natural  divisions  of  the 
Peninsula,  throughout  which  a  leading  prevailing  principle  may  be 
traced.  The  artificial,  political,  and  conventional  arrangement  into 
kingdoms  and  provinces  is  so  much  the  work  of  accident  and  of  absence 
of  design ;  indeed,  one  who  only  looked*  at  the  map  might  sometimes 
fancy  that  some  of  the  partitions  were  expressly  devised  for  the  sake  of 
being  purposely  inconvenient  and  incongruous. 

These  provincial  divisions  were  however  formed  by  the  gradual  union 
*  of  many  smaller  and  previously  independent  portions,  which  have  been 
taken  into  Spain  as  a  whole,  just  as  our  inconvenient  counties  constitute 
the  kingdom  of  England.  Long  habit  has  reconciled  the  inhabitants  to 
these  divisions,  which  practically  suit  them  better  than  any  new 
arrangement,  however  better  calculated  according  lo  statistical  and 
geographical  principles.  The  French,  when  they  obtained  possession  of 
the  Peninsula,  with  their  fondness  for  departmentalization,  tried  to  re- 
model and  recombine  ancient  and  antipathetic  provinces,  to  carve  out 
neatly  and  apportion  districts,  a  la  mode  de  Paris,  in  utter  disregard 
of  the  wishes,  necessities,  and  prejudices  of  the  respective  natives.  No 
sooner  was  their  intrusive  rule  put  to  an  end,  than  the  Spaniards 
shook  off  their  paper  arrangements,  and  reverted,  like  the  Italians,  to 
those  which  pre-existed,  and  which,  however  defective  in  theory,  and 
^   irregular  on  the  map,  suited  their  inveterate  habits.     In  spite  of  the 

"lure  of  the  French,  Spain  has  been  recently  re-arranged,  and  the 


^pain.  IX.  POPULATION.  33 

people  parcelled  out  like  pieces  on  a  chess-Tsoard.  It  will  long,  however, 
defy  the  power  of  all  the  reformers,  commissioners,  of  all  the  doctri- 
naires, of  all  the  cortes,  effectually  to  efface  the  ancient,  deeply-impressed 
divisions,  which  are  engraven  on  the  retentive  characters  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  each  distinct  province,  who  next  to  hating  their  neighbours, 
hate  innovations. 

The  political  divisions  of  former  times  consisted  of  14  large  jirovinces, 
some  of  which  were  called  kingdoms,  as  Granada,  Seville,  Cordova, 
Jaen,  Murcia,  Valencia,  &c. :  others  principalities,  like  Asturias : 
others  counties,  like  Barcelona  Niebla,  &c. :  and  lastly,  others  were 
called  provinces,  like  New  and  Old  Castile,  Estremadura,  &c. :  Biscay 
was  termed  el  Senorio,  Spain,  was  then  divided  by  "  decree,"  into 
49  provinces,  viz.:  Alava,  Albacete,  Alicante,  Almeria,  Avila, 
Badajoz,  las  Baleares,  Barcelona,  Burgos,  Caceres,  Cadiz,  las  Cauarias, 
Castellon  de  la  Plana,  Ciudad  Real,  Cordoba,  la  Coruiia,  Cucnca, 
Gerona,  Granada,  Guadalajara,  Guipuzcoa,  Huelva,  Huesca,  Jaen,  Leon, 
Li^rida,  Loigrono,  Lugo,  Madrid,  Mali^a,  Murcia,  Navarra,  Oreusc, 
Oviedo,  Palencia,  Pontevedra,  Salamanca,  Santander,  Segovia,  Sevilla, 
Soria,  Tarragona,  Teruel,  Toledo,  Valencia,  Valladolid,  Vizcaya,  Zamora, 
Zaragoza.  There  is  now  a  scheme  to  reduce  these  49  into  20  provinces,  in 
the  hopes  of  diminishing  departamental  expenditure  and  malversation, 
and  to  further  the  centralizing  system,  which  France  has  made  the 
fashion. 

The  present  population,  with  a  slow  tendency  to  increase,  may  be 
taken  at  13,000,000,  although  Madoz  rates  it  at  15,000,000.  Brought^ 
the  great  bar  to  the  fertility  of  soil,  also  tends  to  check  fertility  of  women. 
The  prevalence,  again,  of  foundling  hospitals,  and  the  large  number  of 
natural  children  exposed  by  unnatural  parents  in  these  charnel-houses 
to  a  certain  massacre  of  innocents,  and  the  drain  of  deadly  Madrid  on 
the  provinces  at  large,  keeps  down  the  scanty  population.  The  revenue 
may  be  taken  at  some  12,000,0002.  Badly  collected,  and  at  a  niinous  per 
oentage,  it  is  exposed  to  infinite  robbery  and  jobbery.  In  Spain  a  little 
money,  like  oil,  will  stick  to  every  finger  that  handles  it. 

Spain,  in  the  time  of  Ferdinand  VJI.  one  of  the  most  backward 
nations  in  Europe,  has  since  his  death  made  considerable  advance. 
The  sleeper  has  been  awakened  by  the  clash  of  civil  wars,  and,  however 
far  the  lagging  is  yet  in  arrear,  a  certain  social  and  administrative  progress 
is  perceptible.    The  details  connected  with  each  ministerial  department, 
their  separate  duties,  and  what  is  or  ought  to  be  done  under  each  head, 
Justice,  Finance,  Home,  Board  of  Trade,  War,  and  Marine,  are  set  forth 
in   the  Spanien  und  seine  fortschreitende  Entwickelung,  Julius   v. 
Minutoli,  Berlin,  1852,  but  the  infinite  details  of  the  working  and  social 
life  are  put  by  him  in  too  complimentary  a  style.   Most  Spanish  things 
so  tinted  d  la  roee  on  Am  paper  appear  perfect ;  but  when  tested  by  prac- 
tice, many  a  mi^;azine  will  turn  out  to  be  an  arsenal  (»f  empty  boxes,  and 
many  an  institution  of  peace  and  war  be  found  "  wanting  in  everything 
most  essential  at  the  critical  moment."   A  swelling,  pompous  snow  of 
canvas  is  spread  over  a  battered,  unseaworthy  hull.    The  use  made  of 
our  Handbook  by  this  industrious  Prussian,  and  also  by  his  country- 
man Zeigler  in  his  recent  Reiae  in  Spanien,  1852,  is  flattering. 

Xo  doubt  Spain  has  taken  part  in  the  general  progress  of  the  l»r* 

c  3 


34  IX.  TGXJBS  IN  SPAIN.  Sect.  I. 

score  of  years,  and  a  marked  improvement  is  perceptible,  especially  in 
medical  science,  and  in  the  national  education  of  the  people.  While 
in  1803  only  1  in  340  were  educated,  it  is  now,  we  are  told,  calculated 
that  to  every  1  in  17  the  means  of  elementary  schooling  is  offered. 
If  this  be  true,  then  England,  the  leader  of  rruyral  civilization  as  France 
is  of  sensual,  may  well  take  a  leaf  from  the  hom-book  of  Spain. 

-TouBS  IN  Spain. 

However  much  the  Gotho-Spaniards  have  destroyed,  disfigured,  and 
ill-appreciated  the  relics  of  the  Moor — in  their  eyes  an  inlidel  invader 
and  barbarian — the  remains'of  that  elegant  and  enlightened  people  will 
always  constitute  to  the  rest  of  mankind  some  of  the  foremost  objects 
of  curiosity  in  the  Peninsula,  and  are  indeed  both  in  number  and 
importance  quite  unequalled  in  Europe. 

Tour  for  the  Idler  and  Man  of  Pleasure. 

Perhaps  this  class  of  travellers  had  better  go  to  Paris  or  Naples. 

Spain  is  not  a  land  of  fleshly  comforts,  or  of  social  sensual  civilization. 

Oh  I  dura  tellus  IhertcB  I — God  there  sends  the  meat,  and  the  evil  one 

cooks : — there  are  more  altars  than  kitchens — des  milliers  depreires  et 

pas  un  cuisinier. 

Life  in  the  country,  there,  is  a  Bedouin  Oriental  existence.  The  inland 
mifrequented  towns  are  dull  and  poverty-stricken.  Bore  is  the  Genius 
Loci.  Boasted  Madrid  itself  is  but  a  dear,  second-rate,  inhospitable  city  ; 
the  maritime  seaports,  as  in  the  East,  from  being  frequented  by  the 
foreigner,  are  more  cosmopolitan,  more  cheerful  and  amusing.  Generally 
speaking,  in  Spain,  as  in  the  East,  public  amusements  are  rare.  The  calm 
contemplation  of  a  cigar,  Mass  and  telling  of  beads,  and  a  dolce  far 
nientey  siestose  indolence,  appear  to  suffice  ;  while  to  some  nations  it  is 
a  pain  to  be  out  of  i)leasure,  to  the  Spaniard  it  is  a  pleasure  to  be  out 
of  painful  exertion :  leave  me,  leave  me,  to  repose  and  tobacco.  When» 
however  awake,  the  Alameda,  or  church  show,  and  the  bull-fight,  are 
the  chief  relaxations.  These  will  be  best  enjoyed  in  the  Southern  pro- 
vinces,  the  land  also  of  tha  song  and  dance,  of  bright  suns  and  eyes, 
wholesale  love  making,  and  of  not  the  largest  female  feet  in  the  world. 

Before  pointing  out  other  objects  to  be  observed  in  Spain,  and 
there  only,  it  may  be  as  well  to  mention  what  is  not  to  be  seen, 
as  there  is  no  worse  loss  of  time  than  finding  this  out  oneself,  after 
weary  chace  and  wasted  hours.  Those  who  expect  to  find  well- 
garnished  arsenals,  libraries,  restaurants,  charitable  or  literary  institu- 
tions, canals,  railroads,  tunnels,  suspension-bridges,  polytechnic  galle- 
ries,  pale-ale  breweries,  and  similar  appliances  and  appurtenances  of 
a  high  state  of  political,  social,  and  commercial  ^civilization,  had 
better  stay  at  home.  In  Spain  there  are  few  turnpike-trust  meetings, 
quarter-sessions,  courts  of  justice,  according  to  the  real  meaning  of  that 
word,  no  tread-mills  or  boards  of  guardians,  no  chairmen,  directors, 
masters-extraordinary  of  the  court  of  chancery,  no  assistant  poor-law 
commissioners.  There  are  no  anti-tobacco-teetotal-temperance-meetings, 
no  auxiliary  missionary  propagating  societies,  no  dear  drab  doves  of 
peace  societies,  or  African  slave  emancipationists,  nothing  in  the  blanket 


Spain.  IX.   WHAT  TO  OBSERVE  IN  SPAIK.  35 

and  lying-in  asylum  line,  little,  in  short,  worth  a  qnaker's  or  a  revising 
barrister  of  three  years'  standing's  notice.  Spain  may  perhaps  interest  a 
political  economist,  as  affording  an  example  of  the  decline  of  the  wealth  of 
nations,  and  offering  a  fine  example  of  errors  to  be  avoided,  and  a  grand 
field  for  theories  and  experimental  plans  of  reform  and  amelioration. 
Here  is  a  land  where  Nature  has  lavished  her  prodigality  of  soil  and 
climate,  and  which  man  has  for  the  last  four  centuries  been  endeavouring 
to  counteract.  M  cieh  y  suelo  es  bueno,  el  entresuelo  malo.  Here  the  tenant 
for  life  and  the  occupier  of  the  peninsular  entresol,  abuses,  with  incurious 
apathy  the  goods  with  which  the  gods  have  provided  him,  and  *'  preserves 
the  country  "  as  a  terra  incognita  to  naturalists  and  every  branch  of 
ists  and  ologists.  All  these  interesting  branches  of  inquiry,  healthful 
and  agreeable,  as  being  out-of-door  pursuits,  and  bringing  the  amateur 
in  close  contact  with  nature,  ofier  to  embryo  authors,  who  are  ambitious 
to  book  something  new,  a  more  worthy  subject  than  the  decies  repetita 
descriptions  of  bull-fights  and  the  natural  history  of  mantillas,  ollas, 
and  ventas.  Those  who  aspire  to  the  romantic,  in  short,  to  any  of  the 
sublime  and  beautiful  lines  (feelings  unknown  to  the  natives,  and 
brought  in  by  foreigners  themselves),  will  find  subjects  enough  in  wan- 
dering with  lead-pencil  and  note-book  through  this  singular  country, 
which  hovers  between  Europe  and  Africa,  between  civilisation  and 
barbarism ;  this  land  of  the  green  valley  and  ashy  mountain,  of  the 
boundless  plain  and  the  broken  sierra ;  those  Elysian  gardens  of  the 
Tine,  the  olive,  the  orange,  and  the  aloe ;  those  trackless,  silent,  uncul- 
tivated wastes,  the  heritage  of  the  bustard  and  bittern; — striking 
indeed  and  sudden  is  the  change,  in  flying  from  the  polished  monotony 
of  England,  to  the  racy  freshness  of  that  still  original  country,  where 
antiquity  treads  on  the  heels  of  to-day,  where  Paganism  disputes  the 
very  altar  with  Christianity,  where  indulgence  and  luxury  contend 
with  privation  and  poverty,  where  a  want  of  much  that  is  generous, 
honest,  or  merciful  is  blended  with  the  most  devoted  heroic  virtues, 
-where  the  cold-blooded  cruelty  is  linked  with  the  fiery  passions  of  Africa, 
where  ignorance  and  erudition  stand  in  violent  and  striking  contrast. 

There  let  the  antiquarian  pore  over  the  fossils  of  thousands  of  years, 
the  vestiges  of  Phoenician  enterprise,  of  Boman  magnificence,  of  Moorish 
elegance,  in  that  land  "potted"  for  him,  that  repository  of  much 
elsewhere  long  obsolete  and  forgotten,  and  compare  their  massiveness 
and  utility  with  the  gossamer  Aladdin  palaces,  the  creatures  of  Oriental 
gorgeousness  and  imagination,  with  which  Spain  alone  ctfh  enchant  the 
European  F.S.A. ;  how  tender  the  poetry  of  her  envy-disarming  decay, 
fallen  from  her  high  estate,  the  dignity  of  a  dethroned  monarch,  borne 
with  unrepining  self-respect,  the  last  consolation  of  the  innately  noble, 
which  no  adversity  can  take  away ;  how  wide  and  new  is  the  field 
opened  here  to  the  lovers  of  art,  amid  the  masterpieces  of  Italian  genius, 
when  Raphael  and  Titian  strove  to  decorate  the  palaces  of  Charles,  the 
great  emperor  of  the  age  of  Leo  X.  Here  again  is  all  the  living  nature 
of  Velazquez  and  Murillo,  truly  to  be  seen  in  Spain  alone ;  let  the 
artist  mark  well  and  note  the  shells  in  which  these  pearls  of  price  shine, 
the  cathedral,  where  God  is  worshipped  in  a  manner  as  nearly  befitting 
his  glory  as  finite  man  can  reach — the  Gothic  gloom  of  the  cloister,  the 
feu&l  turret  of  Avila,  the  vasty  Escorial,  the  rock-built  alcazar  of  iir 


36 


IX.   TOURS  IN  SPAIN. 


Sect.  I. 


penal  Toledo,  the  sunny  towers  of  stately  Seville,  the  eternal  snows  and 
lovely  vega  of  Granada ;  let  the  geologist  clamber  over  mountains  of 
marble,  and  metal-pregnant  sierras ;  let  the  botanist  cull  from  the  wild 
hothouse  of  nature  plants  unknown,  unnumbered,  matchless  in  colour, 
and  breathing  the  aroma  of  the  sweet  south ;  let  all,  learned  or  unlearned, 
listen  to  the  song,  the  guitar,  the  castanet ;  mingle  with  the  gay,  good- 
humoured,  temperate  peasantry,  free,  manly,  and  independent,  yet 
courteous  and  respectful ;  live  with  the  noble,  dignified,  high-bred, 
self-respecting  Spaniard  ;  share  in  their  easy,  courteous  society ;  let  all 
admire  their  dark-eyed  women,  to  whom  ages  and  nations  have  con- 
ceded the  palm  of  attraction,  to  whom  Venus  has  bequeathed  her 
girdle  of  fascination ;  let  all — sed  ohe !  jam  satis — enough  for 
starting  on  this  expedition,  where,  as  Don  Quixote  said,  there  are 
opportunities  for  what  are  called  adventures  elbow-deep.  **  Aqui^ 
Hermano  Sancho,  podemos  metir  las  memos  hasta  los  codos,  en  esto  que 
llaman  aventura^,'*^ 

In  suggesting  lines  of  routes.in  Spain,  a  whole  year  would  gcarcely 
suffice  to  make  the  grand  and  complete  tour.  It  might  be  performed 
in  the  following  manner  ;  the  letters  annexed  signify  that  the  means  of 
progress  can  be  accomplished  S.  by  steam,  C.  by  public  conveyance, 
K,  by  riding : — 

The  Grand  Tour. 

Start  from  England  hy  the  Steam-jacket  about  the  end  of  March  for 

CadiZj  and  then  proceed  thus — 


Puerto,  by  Steam. 

Xerez,  Coach. 

Bonanza.  July  24. 

Seville,  S. 
May  6.    Cordova,  C. 

Andujar,  C. 

Jaen,  C. 
May  20.  Granada,  C. 

Alpujarras,  Eide.    Aug.  5. 

Berja,  R.  Aug.  10. 

Motril,  R.       ' 
June  5.   Malaga,  li. 

Antequera,  R. 

Ronda,  R. 

Gaucin,  R. 

Gibraltar,  R. 

Tarifa,  R.  or  S. 
June  25.  Cadiz,  R.  or  S. 

Seville,  S. 

Aracena,  R. 

Badajoz,  R.        Aug.  10. 
July  5.    Merida,  C.  R. 

Alcantara,  R. 

Coria,  R. 
July  16.  Plasencia,  R. 

Yuste,  R. 

Abadia,  R. 

Batuecas,  R. ' 


Alberca,  R. 

CiudadRodrigo. 

Salamanca,  R. 

Zamora,  R. 

Benaveute,  R. 

Astorga,  R. 

Pouferrada,  R. 

Lugo,  R. 

Santiago,  R. 

La  Coruna  or 
Ponferrada. 

Orense,  R. 

Tuy,  R. 

Vigo,  R. 

Santiago,  R. 

La  Coruna,  C. 

Oviedo  by  the 
coast,  R.  S., 
or  by  Cangas 
de  Tiueo,  R. 

La  Coruna. 

Oviedo,  R. 

Leon,  C. 

Safaagun,  R. 

Burgos,  R. 

Santander,  C. 

Bilbao,  R. 

Vitoria,  C. 


Sept.      Burgos,  C. 

Valladolid,  C. 

Segovia,  R.  C. 

Escorial,  C. 

Avila,  R. 

Madrid,  F. 

Toledo,  C. 
Oct.       Araiguez,  C. 

Cuenca,  R. 

Madrid  (winter), 
or  at 

Valencia,  C. 

Xativa,  C. 

Villena,  R. 

Murcia,  R. 

Cartagena.  C. 

Orihuela,  R. 
Spring.  Elche,  C. 

Alicante,  C. 

Ibi,  R. 

Alcoy,  R. 

Xativa,  R. 

Valencia,  C. 

Tarragona,  C.S. 

Reus,  C. 

Poblet,  R. 

Cervera,  R. 

Jgualada,  R. 


*Spain.  IX.  hints  to  invalids.  37 

Spnng.    Cardona,  R.  Huesca,  C.  R.  Pamplona,  R.  C. 

Mooserrat,  R.  ThePyrenee8,R.  Elizondo,  R. 

Martopell,  R.  Tudela,  C.  Vera,  R. 

Barcelona,  R.  Pamplona,  C.  Iran,  R.     ^ 

Zaragoza,  C.  Summer.  Tolosa,  C. 
Summer.  Jaca,  R.  Iruu,  C.  or 

Hints  to  Invalids. 

The  sui^riority  of  the  climate  of  the  South  of  Spain  over  all  other 
regions  of  Euroj^e,  which  was  pointed  out  in  our  former  editions,  is  now 
ratified  in  the  able  and  practical  treatise  of  Dr.  Francis,*  the  "  Clark  of 
Spain,"  and  the  first  to  grapple  professionally,  after  much  personal  expe- 
rience and  examination,  with  this  hygienic  subject.  Fair  Italy,  with 
her  classical  prestige,  her  Catholic  associations,  her  infinite  civilization, 
-and  ready  access,  has  long  been  the  land  of  promise  to  our  travellers 
expatriated  in  search  of  health.  But  the  steam  and  rail  of  England 
have  now  annihilated  time  and  space,  and  her  pen  has  pioneered  the 
path  to  distant  Spain,  and  dissipated  the  delusions  and  dangers  of 
'banditti  and  garlic.  Independently  of  a  more  southern  latitude,  the 
geometrical  configui-ation  of  Spain  is  superior ;  while  the  Apennines^  the 
Ixickbone  of  Italy,  stretching  N.  to  S,,  offer  no  barrier  to  northern  cold, 
the  sierras  of  Spain,  running  E.  and  W.,  afford  complete  shelter  to 
the  littoral  strips:  Again,  where  the  skiey  influences  of  Italy  are 
enervating  and  depressing,  the  climate  of  the  Peninsula  is  bracing  and 
exhilarating.  Free  as  a  whole  from  malaria,  dryness  is  the  emphatic 
^juality  of  the  climate.  Malaga^  on  the  whole,  may  be  pronounced 
the  most  favoured  winter  residence  in  Europe,  and  justly  claims  to 
"be  the  real  Elysian  fields — pace  those  of  Paris  and  Naples. 

As  Spain  itself  is  a  conglomeration  of  elevated  mountains,  the  treeless, 
denuded  interior,  scorching  and  calcined  in  summer,  keen,  cold  and  wind- 
blown in  winter,  is  prejudicial  to  the  invalid ;  the  hygienic  charac- 
teristics of  the  maritime  coasts  to  the  W.  from  Vigo  to  San-Sebastian, 
are  soothing  and  sedative— a  relaxing  influence  prevailing  as  the 
French  frontier  is  approached  ;  the  strip  to  the  E.,  from  Barcelona  to 
Cadiz,  is  more  bracing  and  exhilarating ;  midway,  in  Murcia,  occur  the 
driest  regions  in  Europe,  with  Malaga  for  the  happy  medium. 

The  benefits  derived  by  well-timed  change  of  climate  in  cases  of  con- 
sumption, dyspepsia,  bronchitis,  and  chronic  complaints,  the  climacteric 
failure  oivis  vitoBf  and  the  vivifying  influence  on  the  health  of  mind  and 
"body — reoxygenated,  as  it  were — Are  matters  of  fact.  The  stimulus  of 
glowing  light,  and  the  effect  of  warm  and  constant  sunshine  on  sur- 
faces chilled  by  the  wet  blanket  of  fog  and  cloud,  works  wonders.  The 
insensible  transpiration  proceeds  constantly;  the  skin  then  does  its 
work  to  the  relief  of  the  internal  organs.  The  water  dnmk  in  Spain, 
•where — in  the  warmer  portions^-diabetes  and  dropsy  are  little  known, 
is  deliciously  pure.  The  wines  of  the  south  especially — Malaga  and 
Manzanilla — are  dry,  cheap,  and  wholesome.  The  cuisine,  in  a  country 
where  people  eat  to  live,  not  live  to  eat,  will  indeed  keep  body  and 
soul  t(^ether,  but  will  tempt  no  weak  and  wearied  "  stomach  "  to  re- 

•  Cbftnge  of  Climate,  &c,  vith  an  account  of  the  most  eligible  places  of  residence  for 
UiTalidfl  in  Spain,  Portucat,  Algeria,  &c.,  by  D.  J.  T.  Francis,  M.l\    London.    1868. 


38  IX.  HINTS  TO  INVALIDS.  Sect.  L 

pletion.  The  peptic  benefits  of  climate  on  the  natives  are  evident  by 
the  way  they  digest  an  oil,  vinegar,  and  vegetable  diet,  and  survive 
chocolate,  sweetmeats,  and  bile-creating  compounds.  The  sustaining 
effect  is  proved  by  the  untiring  activity  of  the  verj'  under-fed  masses, 
where  many  seem  to  live  on  air,  like  chamelions.  How  strong  are 
Spanish  lungs — teste  their  songs — ^and  how  few  are  their  winter-coughs — 
teste  their  churches  1 — The  brain,  again,  in  a  land  of  No  se  sale,  and 
where  there  is  no  reading. public,  no  hourly  penny-post  or  Times,  is  left 
in  comparative  rest — rare  boons  these  for  the  two  organs  that  have^ 
the  least  holiday  under  the  mental  and  physical  toil  entailed  by 
bur  over-refined  civilization.  The  .very  dullness  of  Malaga — Prose 
is  the  tutelar  of  Spanish  towns — benefits  the  invalid.  There  are  no* 
wearying  aesthetic  lions  to  be  encountered — ^no  Madame  Starke  to  be 
"  done** — no  marble-floored  and  peopled  Yaticans  to  be  slidden  through 
— no  cold  Coliseums  to  be  sketched — ^no  Fountains-of-Egeria  picnics — 
no  "  season  "  dinnerings  and  late  balls,  to  excite,  fever  and  freeze  by 
turns :  at  Malaga  the  invalid  leads  a  quiet  life,  calm  as  the  climate,^ 
and,  blessed  with  an  otiose  oriental  real  ddce-far-niente  existence,  caix 
leave  nature  to  her  full  vis  medicatrix.  To  be  always  able  to  bask  in 
the  open  air,  to  throw  physic  to  the  dogs,  to  watch  the  sun,  the 
country,  and  the  people,  with  the  satisfaction  of  every  day  getting: 
better,  are  consolations  and  occupations  sufficient.  The  invalid  will, 
of  course,  consult  his  medical  adviser  on  the  choice  of  residence  best 
suited  to  his  individual  case :  and  the  specialities  of  each  locality  are 
given  by  Dr.  Francis  with  medical  detail.  The  precautions  necessary 
to  be  observed  are  no  less  fully  set  forth  by  him,  and  the  general 
benefits  derived  from  a  riding  tour  in  Spain  pressed  on  the  convalescent. 
And  we  too,  who  have  thus  wandered  over  many  a  hundred  leagues  of 
wild  and  tawny  Spain,  can  fully  speak  to  the  relief  thus  aflbrded  to 
severe  dyspepsia,  and  may  be  permitted  to  say  a  little  word. 

Cato,  a  great  traveller  in  ancient  Spain,  thought  it  a  matter  for 
repentance  in  old  age  to  have  gone  by  sea  where  he  might  have  gone 
by  land.  And,  touching  on  the  means  of  locomotion,  Eails  and  Post- 
horses  certainly  get  quicker  over  a  country,  but  the  pleasure  of  the 
remembrance,  and  the  benefits  derived  by  travel,  are  commonly  in  an 
inverse  ratio  to  the  ease  and  rapidity  with  which  the  journey  is  per- 
formed.* In  addition  to  the  accurate  knowledge  which  is  acquired  of  the 
country,  (for  there  is  no  map  like  this  mode  of  surveying),  and  of  a  con- 
siderable and  by  no  means  the  worst  portion  of  its  population,  a  Biding 
Expedition  to  a  civilian,  is  almost  equivalent  to  serving  a  campaign. 
It  imparts  a  new  life,  which  is  adopted  on  the  spot,  and  which  soon 
appears  quite  natural,  from  being  in  perfect  harmony  and  fitness  ^vith 
everything  around,  however  strange  to  all  previous  habits  and  notions  ; 
it  takes  the  conceit  out  of  a  man  for  the  rest  of  his  life — ^it  makes  him 
bear  and  forbear.  There  is  just  a  dash  of  difficulty  and  danger  to  give 
dignity  to  the  adventure :  but  how  soon  does  all  that  was  disagreeable 
fade  from  the  memory,  while  all  that  was  pleasant  alone  remains — nay, 
even  hardships,  when  past,  become  bright  passages  to  the  recollection. 
It  is  a  capital  practical  school  of  moral  discipline,  just  as  the  hardiest 

*  In  the  first  edition  of  this  Handbook  the  vhole  Babject  of  a  riding  tctir,  horses,  senrants^. 
■^  modut  oparcmdi  is  discussed  at  much  length. 


Spain.  IX.   RIDING  TOUB.  39» 

mariners  are  nurtured  in  the  roughest  seas.  Then  and  there  will  be 
learnt  golden  rules  of  patience,  perseverance,  good  temper,  and  good 
fellowship :  the  individual  man  must  come  out,  for  better  or  worse ;  ou 
these  occasions,  where  wealth  and  rank  are  stripped  of  the  aids  and 
appurtenances  of  conventional  superiority,  he  will  draw  more  on  his 
own  resources,  moral  and  physical,  than  on  any  letter  of  credit ;  his 
wit  will  be  sharpened  by  invention-suggesting  necessity.  Then  and 
there,  when  up,  about  and  abroad,  will  be  shaken  off  dull  sloth.  Action  I 
will  be  the  watchword.  The  traveller  will  blot  out  from  his  Spanish 
dictionary  the  fatal  phrase  of  procrastination — by-and-'hyf  a  street 
which  leads  to  the  house  of  never,  "por  la  caUe  de  desnues,  se  va  a  la 
casa  de  nuncaP  Reduced  to  shift  for  himself,  he  will  see  the  evil  of 
waste,  "  sal  vertida^  nunca  hien  cogida ;"  the  folly  of  improvidence  and 
the  wisdom  of  order,  **  quien  hien  ata,  hien  desata ; "  fast  bind,  fast  un- 
bind. He  will  whistle  to  the  winds  the  paltry  excuse  of  idleness,  the  "  no 
86  puedey^  the  ^^it  is  impossible  "  of  Spaniards.  He  will  soon  learn,  by 
grappling  with  difiSculties,  how  they  are  hest  to  be  overcome, — how  soft 
as  silk  becomes  the  nettle  when  it  is  sternly  grasped,  which  would 
sting  the  tender-handed  touch, — how  powerful  an  element  of  realising 
the  object  proposed,  is  indomitable  volition,  and  the  moral  conviction 
that  we  can  and  wUl  accomplish  it.  He  will  never  be  scared  by  shadows 
thin  as  air!  when  one  door  shuts  another  opens,  •*  cuando  unapuerta  ce 
cierra,  otra  se  ahre"  and  he  who  pushes  on  surely  arrives,  "  guien  no  cansa 
dlcanza"  These  sorts  of  independent  expeditions  are  equally  conducive 
to  health  of  body :  after  the  first  few  days  of  the  new  fatigue  are  got 
over,  the  frame  becomes  of  iron,  "  hecho  de  hronce"  The  living  in  the 
pure  air,  the  sustaining  excitement  of  novelty,  exercise,  and  constant 
occupation,  are  all  sweetened  by  the  "  studio  fallente  laborem,"  which 
renders  even  labour  itself  a  pleasure ;  a  new  and  vigorous  life  is  infused 
into  every  bone  and  muscle  ;  early  to  bed  and  early  to  rise,  if  it  does 
not  make  all  brains  wise,  at  least  invigorates  the  gastric  juices,  makes 
a  man  forget  that  he  has  a  liver,  that  storehouse  of  mortal  misery — 
bile,  blue  pill,  and  blue  devils.  This  Tieaith  is  one  of  the  secrets  of 
the  amazing  charm  which  seems  inherent  to  this  mode  of  travelling  in 
spite  of  all  the  apparent  hardships  with  which  it  is  surrounded  in  the 
abstract.  Escaping  from  the  meshes  of  the  west  end  of  London,  we 
are  transported  into  a  new  world  ;  every  day  the  out-of-door  panorama 
is  varied ;  now  the  heart  is  cheered  and  the  countenance  made  glad  by 
gazing  on  plains  overflowing  with  milk  and  honey,  or  laughing  with 
oil  and  wine,  where  the  orange  and  citron  bask  in  the  glorious  sun- 
beams. Anon  we  are  lost  amid  the  wild  magnificence  of  Nature,  who, 
careless  of  mortal  admiration,  lavishes  with  proud  indifference  her  fairest 
charms  where  most  unseen,  her  grandest  forms  where  most  inaccessible* 
Every  day  and  everywhere  we  are  unconsciously  funding  a  stock  of 
treasures  and  pleasures  of  memory,  to  be  hived  in  our  bosoms  like 
the  honey  of  the  bee,  to  cheer  and  sweeten  our  after-life ;  which,  delight- 
ful even  as  in  the  reality,  wax  stronger  as  we  grow  in  years,  and  feel 
that  these  feats  of  our  youth,  like  sweet  youth  itself,  can  never  be  our 
portion  again.  Of  one  thing  the  reader  may  be  assured — that  dear 
will  be  to  him,  as  is  now  to  us,  the  remembrance  of  these  wild  and 
joyous  rides  through  tawny  Spain,  where  hardship  was  forgotten  ere 


40 


IX.    MINERAL  BATHS, 


Sect.  I* 


undergone  :  those  sweet-aired  hills — those  rocky  crags  and  torrents — 
those  fresh  valleys  which  communicate  their  own  freshness  to  the 
heart — that  keen  relish  for  hard  fare  won  by  hunger — the  best  of 
sauces — those  sound  slumbers  on  harder  couch,  earned  by  fatigue,  the 
downiest  of  pillows — the  braced  nerves — the  spirits  light,  elastic,  and 
joyous — that  freedom  from  care — that  health  of  body  and  soul  which 
ever  rewards  a  close  communion  with  Nature — and  the  shuffling  off 
the  frets  and  factitious  'wants  of  the  thick-pent  artificial  city. 

Mineral  Baths. 

These  are  very  numerous,  and  have  always  been  much  frequented. 
In  every  part  of  the  Peninsula  such  names  as  Ccddas,  the  Eoman 
Oalidas,  and  Alhama^  the  Arabic  Al-hdmun,  denote  the  continuance  of 
baths,  in  spite  of  the  changes  of  nations  and  language.  From  Al- 
hamuUf  the  Hhamman  of  Cairo,  the  name  of  our  comfortable  Covent 
Garden  Hummums  is  derived ;  but  very  different  are  the  Spanish 
accommodations,  which  are  mostly  rude,  inadequate,  and  inconvenient. 
The  Junta  Suprema  de  Sanidad,  or  Official  Board  of  Health,  has  pub- 
lished a  list  of  the  names  of  the  principal  baths,  and  their  proper 
seasons.  At  each  a  medical  superintendent  resides,  who  is  appointed 
by  government ;  and  who  will  swear — if  given  a  double  fee — that  Aw 
waters  in  particular  will  cure  every  evil  under  the  sun. 


Names  of  Baths. 

Province. 

Vicinity. 

Chiclana   .... 
Paterna  de  la  Rivera  . 
Arenocillo      .     .     . 

Andalucia. 
do. 
do. 

Cadiz. 

Medina  Sidonia. 

Cordova. 

Horcajo     •     •     •     • 

do. 

do. 

Alhama     .... 

do. 

Granada. 

Graena      .... 

do. 

PuruUena. 

T^njaron  .... 

do. 

I^njaron. 

Sierra  Alamilla    .     • 

do. 

Almeria. 

Guardavieja  .     .     . 

do. 

do. 

1 
Marmolejo      .     •     . 

do. 

Jaen. 

Frailes      .... 
Carratraca      .     .     . 

do. 
do. 

do. 
Malaga. 

Archena    .     .     .  "  . 

Murcia. 

Murcia. 

Basot 

Valencia. 

Alicante. 

Bellus 

do. 

Xativa. 

Villa  vieja      •     .     . 

do. 

Casfellon. 

Caldas  de  Monbuy     • 

Catalonia. 

Matar<5. 

Olesa  y  Esparraguera 

do. 

Barcelona. 

Seasons. 


June  to  Oct. 

June  to  Sept. 
do.  do. 
J  May  to  June. 
\  Aug.  to  Sept. 
JApr.to  June. 
\Sept.  to  Oct. 
<  May  to  June. 
(Aug.  to  Oct. 

May  to  Sept 

{May  to  June. 
Sept.  to  Oct. 
do.        do. 
rApr.toJune. 
\Sept.  to  Nov. 
June  to  Sept. 
do.       do. 
Apr.  to  June. 
Sept.  to  Oct. 
May  to  June. 
Sept.  to  Oct. 
Apr.  to  June. 
Sept.  to  Oct. 
|May  to  July. 
\  Aug.  to  Sept. 
TMay  to  July. 
\Sept.  to  Oct. 
July  to  Sept. 


Spain. 


X.  SKELETON  TOUKS. 


41 


Xames  of  Baths. 

Province. 

Vicinity. 

SeMODs. 

Alhama     •     •     .     . 

Arragon. 

Calatayad. 

June  to  Sept. 

Quinto .     •     • 

do. 

Zaragoza. 

May  to  Sept. 

Tiermas    •     •     , 

do. 

Cinco-villas. 

do.        do. 

Panticosa  •     .     , 

do. 

Huesca. 

June  to  Sept. 

Secara       • 

do. 

Daroca. 

May  to  Sept. 

Fitero  .     •     .     . 

Navarra. 

Pamplona. 

do.        do. 

Hervideros      .     , 

La  Mancha. 

Ciadad  Real. 

June  to  Sept. 

Fuencaliente  •     , 

do. 

do. 

May  to  June. 

Solan  de  Cabras   . 

New  Castile. 

Cuenca. 

June  to  Sept. 

Sacedon     • 

do. 

Guadalajara. 

do.        do. 

TriUo  .... 

do. 

do. 

do.        do. 

£1  Molar  .     .     , 

do. 

Madrid. 

do.        do. 

Ledesma   • 

Old  Castile. 

Salamanca. 

do.        do. 

Amedillo  .     • 

do. 

Logrono. 

do.        do. 

Alange      .     .     . 

Estremadura. 

Badajoz. 

do.        do. 

Monte  mayor .     . 

do. 

Caceres. 

do.        do. 

Arteijo       .     • 

Gallicia. 

La  Cornna. 

July  to  Sept. 

JLago   .... 

do. 

do. 

June  to  Sept. 

Carballino      •     . 

do. 

Orense. 

July  to  Sept. 

Cortegada       .     . 

do. 

do. 

June  to  Sept. 

Caldas  de  Reyes  « 

do. 

Ponteyedra. 

July  to  Sept. 

Caldelas  de  Tuy  , 

do. 

do. 

do.        do. 

Cestona     •     .     < 

Guipuzcoa. 

.  • 

June  to  Sept. 

La  Hermida   •     .     • 

Asturias. 

Santander. 

do.        do. 

X. — Skeleton  Tours. 

Thd  Peninsula  may  also  be  divided  into  regions  which  contain 
peculiar  objects  of  interest.  The  vestiges  of  epochs  run  in  strata, 
according  to  the  residence  of  the  different  nations  who  have  occupied 
Spain  ;  thus  the  Eoman,  Moorish,  and  Gotho-Spaniard  periods  are 
marked  by  evidences  distinguishing  and  indelible  as  fossils. 

No.  1.  A  Roman  Antiquarian  Tour. 


Seville. 
Italica,  R. 
Rio  Tinto,  R. 
May.   Merida,  R. 

Alcantara,  R. 
Alconetar,  R. 


June.   Coria,  R. 

Plasencia,  R. 
Capara,  R. 
Salamanca,  R. 
Segovia,  R. 
Toledo,  C. 


Valencia,  C 
Murviedro,  C. 
July.   Tarragona,  C.  S. 
Barcelona,  C.  S. 
Martorell,  C. 


No.  2.  A  Moorish  Antiquarian  Tour. 
Seville.  June.  Graoada,  C.  June.  Malaga,  R. 


May.   Cordova,  C. 
Jaen,  C. 


Alhama,  R. 
Tours  for  Naturaubts. 


Tari&,  R.  S. 


The  natTlral  history  of  Spain  has  yet  to  be  really  investigated  and 
described.  This  indeed  is  a  subject  worthy  of  all  who  wish  to  **  book 
something  new,"  and  the  soil  is  almost  virgin.  The  harvest  is  rich, 
and  although  labourers  have  long  been  wanting,  able  pioneers  have 
broken  the  ground,  and  a  zealous  band  is  following.  The  great  extent 
and  peculiar  coi^ormation  of  the  Peninsula  offer  every  possible  scoj* 


42  X.  BOTANICAL  TOURS.  Sect.  I» 

to  the  geologist  and  botanist.  The  damp  valleys  of  the  Asturias  and 
the  western  provinces  combine  the  varieties  of  Wales  and  Switzerland ;. 
the  central  portions  contain  the  finest  cereal  regions  in  the  world,  while 
the  mountains  of  Andalucia,  covered  with  eternal  snow,  furnish  an 
entire  botanical  range  from  the  hardiest  lichen  to  the  sugar-cane 
which  flourishes  at  their  bases :  vast  districts  of  dehesas,  or  abandoned 
tracts,  bear  in  spring  time  the  aspect  of  a  hot-house  growing  wild ; 
such  is  the  profusion  of  flowers  which  waste  their  sweets,  noted  and 
gathered  but  imperfectly,  in  this  Paradise  of  the  wild  bee,  this  garden 
of  weeds,  albeit  the  Barharies  Botanica  Hispanica,  complained  of  by 
Linnasus,  is  now  in  a  fair  way  to  be  eradicated,  and  this  very  much 
by  foreigners,  as  the  Spaniard,  like  the  old  Romans  and  the  Oriental, 
is  little  sensible  to  the  beauties  of  nature  for  herself,  when  unconnected 
with  the  idea  of  his  pleasure  or  profit — garden  or  farm;  and  an 
antipathy  to  trees  forms  quite  a  second  Castilian  nature. 

Consult  on  the  Flora  Hispanica,  the  works  of  Quer  Cavanillas  and 
those  named  by  Miguel  Colmeiro,  8vo.  1846,  in  his  list  of  Spanish 
botanical  books.  The  botanist  and  entomologist  may  peruse  with 
advantage  the  Reise-Erinnerungen  aus  Spanien,  by  E.  A.  Eossmassler, 
2  vols.,  Leipzig,  1854,  especially  on  the  subject  of  snails. 

Naturalists — ^happy  men — for  whom  Nature  spreads  a  bountiful 
banquet,  whose  infinite  variety  neither  time  nor  man  can  destroy, 
should  by  all  means  ride  on  their  excursions.  Much  of  the  best  giound 
is  totally  uncarriageable.  Remember,  above  all  things,  to  bring  all 
necessary  implements  and  scientific  appliances  with  you  from  England^ 
as  neither  they  nor  their  pursuits  are  things  of  Spain. 

The  eastern  and  southern  portions  of  Spain  should  not  be  visited 
before  May,  or  the  northern  much  before  June. ' 

To  geology,  a  new  science  even  in  Europe,  the  Moro-Spaniards  are 
only  beginning  to  pay  attention — ^mining  excepted — and  even  there  again 
theforeigner  has  dug  up  his  share  at  least  of  treasure  buried  in  the  native 
napkin.  What  a  new  and  wide  field  for  the  man  of  the  hammer ! 
Here  are  to  be  found  the  marbles  with  which  the  Romans  decorated 
their  temples,  the  metal-pregnant  districts  which,  in  the  hands  of  the 
Carthaginians,  rendered  Spain  the  Peru  and  California  of  the  old  world ! 
We  are  enabled,  by  the  kindness  of  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  to 
ofTer  the  substance  of  various  memoirs  and  notices  on  the  geological 
structure  and  sedimentary  deposits  of  Spain,  prepared  chiefly  by  Mon- 
sieur de  Vemeuil,  his  intelligent  coUaborateur  in  Russia.  The  central 
part  of  Spain  is  distinguished  by  3  chains  of  mountains  which  con- 
stitute the  skeleton  of  the  country,  the  Guadarramja,  the  Monies  de 
Toledo,  and  the  Sierra  Morena.  Having  emerged  before  the  secondary 
period,  these  ridges  formed  islands,  in  each  of  which  are  traces  of 
Silurian  or  other  pabeozoic  rocks,  and  around  which  were  accumulated 
the  Jurassic  and  the  cretaceous  deposits. 

Primary  rocks. — One  the  highest  of  these,  the  Guadarrama,  is  princi- 
pally composed  of  granite,  gneiss  and  other  crystalline  schists.  Towards 
the  E.  these  disappear  under  the  sedimentary  formations,  whilst  to  the 
W.  they  proceed  to  the  frontier  of  Portugal.  The  primary  rocks  occur 
in  two  other  and  very  distant  parts  of  Spain.  The  province  of  Gallicia 
'^  principally  composed  of  granite,  gneiss  and  mica- schist,  occasionally 

rrounding  patches  of  slate  and  limestone ;  these  rocks  are  of  great 


Spain,  X.   GEOLOGY  OF  SPAIN.  4S 

antiqalty,  and  fonn  a  sort  of  expansion  of  the  palasozoic  chain  of  Can- 
tabria.  The  Sierra  Nevada,  S.  E.  of  Granada,  ofiers  an  example  of  a 
great  mass  of  crystalline  schists.  The  abundance  of  garnets  in  th& 
mica-schist,  the  crystalline  structure  and  magnesian  condition  of  the 
thick  band  of  limestone  which  surroimds  the  central  part,  indicate  the 
energy  of  the  metamorphic  action  which  has  here  taken  place. 

FcUceozaic  rocks. — The  Sierra  Morena  is  the  tract  in  which  most  of 
the  Silurian  fossils  have  been  discovered.  This  range  is  composed  of 
slates,  psammites,  quartzites  and  sandstones ;  the  strata  often  placed 
by  violent  dislocations  in  a  vertical  position.  Making  a  section  across 
the  chain  K.  to  S.,  the  formations  succeed  each  other  in  an  ascending 
order.  The  oldest  or  lowest  traces  of  life,  trilobites,  occur  in  black 
shivery  slates.  The  upper  Silurian  rocks  are  poorly  represented  in 
the  Sierra  Morena,  the  Devonian  rocks  more  fully.  The  carboniferous 
deposits,  situated  towards  its  southern  jjart,  contain  great  masses  of  lime- 
stone. The  two  sides  of  the  Sierra  Cantabrica  in  Leon  and  the  Asturias, 
present  deposits  of  Devonian  fossils,  and  offer  points  of  pilgrim- 
age for  all  palaeontologists.  These  Devonian  rocks  constitute  the 
axis  of  the  Sierra  Cantabrica  on  its  southern  side,  and  are  covered  in 
the  Asturias  or  on  the  N.  by  the  richest  coal-field  of  Spain.  In  general 
the  carboniferous  strata  are  vertical ;  this  disadvantage  is  lessened  by  the 
mountainous  relief  of  the  country,  in  some  parts  of  which  the  beds  of 
coal  can  be  worked  1200  or  1300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  streams. 
The  depth  of  the  whole  group  may  be  estimated  at  10,000  or  12,000  feet, 

No  fossils  of  the  Permian  rocks  have  ever  been  found  in  Spain,  but 
the  analogy  of  rocks  and  stratigraphical  indications  have  referred  to  that 
formation  the  red  magnesian  limestone,  and  the  gypsiferous  marls  of 
Hon  tie],  of  the  lakes  of  Ruidera,  and  the  famous  cave  of  Montesinos  in 
La  Mancha. 

Secondary  rocks. — The  Trias  triple  may  be  traced  from  the  Pyrenees 
to  the  provinces  of  Santander  and  Asturias,  but  it  does  not  contain  the 
3  series  of  rocks  from  which  the  name  originated  ;  and  the  muschel- 
kalk  being  entirely  wanting,  it  is  reduced  to  marls  and  sandstones  of 
red  colour  placed  between  the  lias  and  the  carboniferous  strata.  The 
Jurassic  and  cretaceous  groufis  extend  over  most  of  the  eastern  and 
southern  part  of  Spain,  covering  vast  areas  in  Catalonia,  Arragon, 
Valencia,  Murcia,  Malaga  and  Eonda ;  lying  upon  the  red  sandstone,, 
they  constitute  most  of  the  high  lands  and  mountains  which  to  the  E. 
of  Madrid  make  the  divortia  aquarum  between  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Mediterranean  sea ;  they  surround  the  central  and  more  ancient  parts ; 
along  the  Guadarrama  the  chalk  penetrates  into  the  very  heart 
of  the  country.  It  will  prove  a  hard  task  to  separate  the  Jurassic 
and  cretaceous  rocks  of  Spain ;  especially  in  the  S.,  where  the  meta- 
morphic action  has  produced  so  many  alterations  in  the  rocks,  and  has 
so  obliterated  the  fossils.  The  districts  of  Malaga  and  Eonda  seem  to- 
possess  a  geological  constitution  very  analogous  to  that  of  the  Venetian 
Alps.  In  effect,  beneath  the  miocene  and  nummulitic  rocks,  rises  a^ 
compact  white  limestone  not  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Italian  scaglia 
and  biancone,  succeeded  near  Antequera  and  other  places  by  a  marble 
of  reddish  colour  full  of  Ammonites,  which  may  be  compared  to  the 
Oxfordian  Ammonitico  rosso  of  the  Italians. 

In  the  eastern  regions,  mountains  more  than  5000  feet  high  are  com 


44  X.  GEOLOGY  OF  SPAIN.  Sect.  I. 

posed  of  triassic,  Jurassic,  and  cretaceous  rocks.  The  greatest  part  of 
the  Jurassic  fossils 'belong  to  the  upper  lias.  The  Oxfordian  Jura 
occurs  at  Teruel ;  but  at  present  the  upper  part  of  the  oolitic  series,  or 
the  Fortlandian  group,  is  unknown.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the 
Neocomian  rocks.  The  chalk  of  Spain  appears  to  consist  only  of  the 
hippuritic  limestone  and  seems  to  correspond  with  the  upper  greensand, 
but  not  with  the  Neocomian  or  lower  greensand.  Above  the  chalk, 
and,  having,  apparently  been  submitted  to  the  same  disturbances,  lie 
the  nummulitic  rocks,  the  true  lower  and  eocene  w^ell  exposed  in  the 
province  of  Santander.  At  Malaga  a  great  discordance  may  be  observed 
between  the  nummulitic  limestone  and  the  miocene,  or  younger  and 
older  tertiary  deposits,  the  first  being  highly  contorted  and  the  second 
slightly  inclined. 

The  younger  tertiary  rocks  cover  vast  areas  in  Spain ;  generally 
horizontal  and  extending  in  vast  plains,.they  contrast  strongly  with  the 
secondary  and  nummulitic,  or  older  tertiary  beds,  which  are  always 
contorted  and  form  undulating  or  mountainous  countries.  All  the  great 
valleys  of  the  Ebro,  the  Douro,  the  Tagus,  the  Guadiana  and  the  Gua- 
dalquivir, have  been  bottoms  of  seas,  estuaries  or  extensive  lakes.  The 
purely  freshwater  deposits  cover  a  larger  area  than  the  marine  ones, 
extending  over  Old  and  New  Castile  from  the  Cantabrian  chain  to  the 
Guadarrama,  and  from  the  Guadarrama  to  the  Sierra  Morena  through 
the  great  plains  of  the  Mancha.  In  some  places  these  deposits  reach 
the  altitude  of  2500  feet ;  thus  proving  how  great  elevation  Spain  has 
undergone  even  in  recent  times ;  recent  in  eifect,  to  judge  by  the 
freshwater  fossil  shells,  identical  with  those  living 'now,  and  by  the 
bones  of  great  mammoths  discovered  in  the  Cerro  San  IsidrOy  near 
Madrid.  Most  of  the  marine  deposits,  and  especially  those  of  the 
basin  of  the  Guadalquivir,  are  miocene,  and  upon  them  lie  here  and 
there  some  small  pliocene,  or  newer  pliocene  (naodern)  deposits,  formed 
on  the  maritime  shore  and  composed  of  pebbles  and  fragments  of  an 
Ostrea  resembling  the  living  species.  It  was  probably  in  the  most 
recent  of  these  periods  that  the  extinct  volcanos  of  the  Peninsulabroke  out. 
Three  foci  of  eruption  are  known  ;  one  at  the  cape  of  Gata,  the  other 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  CiudadReal,  and  the  third  near  Olot  in  Catalonia, 

The  geology  of  Spain  is  not  suflBciently  advanced  to  attempt  a  classi- 
fication of  its  mountains  considered  with  respect  to  their  x)eriods  of 
elevation.  The  Sierra  Morena  is  probably  the  most  ancient ;  for  on  both 
its  sides  the  tertiary  strata  in  contact  with  the  old  rocks  are  horizontal. 
Near  Cordova,  for  example,  the  miocene  beds  with  the  huge  Clypeaster 
oUus  are  to  be  seen  in  that  position,  and  on  the  northern  side  at  Santa 
Cruz  de  Mudela  horizontal  bands  of  freshwater  limestone  loaded  with 
Helix,  lie  upon  highly  inclined,  trilobite  Silurian  schists.  More  recent 
movements  have  taken  place  in  the  Guadarrama ;  since  at  the  southern 
foot  of  that  high  range,  and  on  the  road  from  Madrid  to  Burgos,  the 
same  freshwater  limestone  is  slightly  elevated.  In  the  Pyrenees,  as 
well  as  in  the  mountains  which  rise  in  the  most  southern  part  of  Spain, 
the  subsoil  has  been  fractured  by  violent  and  recent  disturbances.  Tlie 
tertiary  formations  of  the  Ebro,  and  those  of  Leon  along  the  Cantabrian 
^hain,  are  often  much  elevated.    In  Leon  they  are  even  vertical  near 

B  chain,  but  soon  resume  their  horizontality  to  range  over  the  great 
Ins  of  Castile. 


I^fxxin. 


X.  SKELETON  TOURS. 


45 


No.  3.    Geological  and  Minebalogical  Toub. 


Villa  Nueva  del  Rio    Coal 
Spring.    Rio  Tinto      .     •     Copper 
Logrosan.Phosph.  of  Lime 


Almaden 
Linares    • 
Baeza 
Granada  • 
Berja .     . 

Spring      Marbella  • 
or       Macael     . 

Autumn.  Cartagena 
Helliu  . 
Petrola     . 


Quicksilver 

•  Lead 
.  Lead 

Marbles 

•  Lead 

•  Iron 
Marbles 

Silver 

Sulphur 

.    Salt 


Summer. 


Spring. 


Summer. 


Minglanilla 
Teruel    • 
Candete . 
Albarracin 
Daroca  • 
Calataynd 
Tortosa  . 
Cardona 
Ripoll     . 
Durango 
Bilbao     • 
Biscay-    • 
Gijon 


.  Salt 
Fossils 
Fossils 
.  Iron 
.  Iron 
.  Iron 
Marbles 
.  Salt 
.   Iron 

•  Iron 
.  Iron 
.   Iron 

•  Coal 


No.  4.    A  Toub  of  the  Cbeam 

May.    Cadiz,  S.  June.   Granada,  C.  or  R. 
Xerez,  C.  Madrid,  C. 

Seville,  S.  Avila,  C. 

Cordova,  C.  Escorial,  C. 

Osuna,  R.  .    Segovia,  C. 

Konda,  R.  Toledo,  C. 

Gibraltar,  R.  Aranjuez,  C. 

Malaga,  S.  Joly*   Cuenca,  R. 

This  tour  cbmprehendiDg  samples  of  every  ci 
the  traveller  on  his  return  to  talk  competently 


OF  Spain. 

Valencia,  C. 
July.   Tarragona,  C.  S. 

Barcelona,  C.  S. 

Cardona,  R. 

Igualada,  R. 
Aug.    Zaragoza,  C. 

Burgos,  C. 

Irun,  C. 

ty  and  scene,  will  enable 
on  the  things  of  Spain. 


No.  5.   A  Summeb's  Toub  in  the  Nobth  of  Spain. 


Iron,  C. 
Vitoria,  C. 
Jane.   Bilbao,  C. 

Santander,  R.  S. 
Burgos,  C. 


Jul} .    Logrono,  C. 
Pamplona,  C. 
Pyrenees,  R. 
Zaragoza,  C. 
Barcelona,  C. 


Monserrat,  R. 
Aug.    CardoDs,  R. 
Urgel,  R. 
Gerona,  R. 
Perpinan,  C. 


A  pleasant  long- vacation  trip  to  the  angler  and  water-colour  painter. 


No.  6.  A  Cbntbal  Toub  bound  Madbid. 

Avila,  C.  July.   Plasencia,  R.  Aug.    Aranjuez,  C. 

Aug.    Yuste,  R. 

Alcantara,  R. 


Escorial,  C. 
Segovia,  C. 
July.  Valladolid,  R. 
Salamanca,  R. 
Ciudad  Rodrigo,R. 


Merida,  R. 
Talavera,  R. 
Toledo,  R. 


Sept.  Caenca,  R. 
Albarracin,  R. 
Solan  de  Cabras,  R. 
Guadalajara,  C. 
Alcala  de  Henares,C. 


Batuecas,  R. 

This  home  circuit,  which  includes  some  of  the  nohlest  mediaeval  and 
truly  Spanish  cities,  some  of  the  most  picturesque  and  historically 
interesting  sites,  is  douhly  refreshing  to  mind  and  hody  after  the 
withering,  dessicating  influence  of  a  residence  at  Madrid^ 

No.  7.   Ak  Abtistical  Toub — the  Pictubesque. 

As  Spain,  despite  of  our  Roberts  and  Wests,  continues  still  much  in 
the  dark  ages  of  Indian-ink  in  these  matters;  artists,  to  whose  benefit  this 
Handbook  aspires,  should,  before  leaving  England,  lay  in  a  stock  of 
materials,  such  as  block-books,  liquid  water-colours,  camel-hair  brushes, 
pennanentwhite,  and  good  lead-pencils. — ^N.B.  Before  using  them ,  attend 


ri 


46 


X.   SKELETON  TOURS. 


Sect.  I. 


to  our  suggestions  at  page  14,  and  prepare  for  meeting  little  sympathy 
from  the  so-called  better  classes.  Often,  in  truth,  will  the  man  of  the 
pencil  sigh,  and  say,  why  will  not  the  people  show  us  themselves,  their 
real  homes,  and  ways  ?  why  will  they  conceal  what  the  rest  of  the  world 
wishes  most  to  see  and  sketch  ?  Servile  imitators  of  the  foreigner,  whom 
they  affect  to  despise,  they  seem  in  practice  to  deny,  their  fatherland  and 
nationality.  They  bore  us  with  their  pale  copies  of  the  long-tailed 
•coats  of  London,  and  the  commonplace  columns  of  the  Paris  Bourse. 
They  deluge  us  with  all  we  abhor,  and  hide  the  attractive  panorama 
which  Spain  presents  in  her  own  dear  self,  when  her  children,  all  tag, 
tassel,  and  filagree,  dance  under  fig-tree  and  vine,  while  behind  cluster 
Gothic  ruins  or  Moorish  arches,  scenes  and  sights  ravishing  to  all  eyes 
save  those  of  the  Espanol  ilustrado ;  his  newly  enlightened  and  civilized 
vision,  blind  to  all  this  native  beauty,  colour,  and  originality,  sees  in 
it  only  the  degradation  of  poverty  and  decay;  nay  resenting  the 
admiration  of  the  stranger,  from  which  he  infers  some  condescending 
■compliment  to  picturesque  barbarians,  he  intreats  the  inspection  of  his 
paletot,  or  drags  him  away  to  sketch  some  spick  and  span  academical 
abortion,  to  i-aise  which  some  gem  of  ancient  art  has  been  levelled. 


Eonda,  R. 
Gibraltar,  R. 
Alhama. 
Malaga,  R. 
Granada,  R. 
Lanjaron,  R. 
Elche,  R. 
Cuenca,  R. 
Albarracin,  R. 
Toledo,  C. 


Escorial,  C. 
Avila,  C. 
Plasencia,  R. 
Juste. 

Batuecas,  R. 
El  Vierzo,  R. 
Cangas  de  Tineo,  R. 
Oviedo,  R. 
Pajares,  C. 


Santander,  R. 
Bilbao,  R. 
Vera,  R. 
Jaca,  R. 
Huesca,  R. 

S^renees,  R. 
anresa^  R. 
Monserrat,  R. 
Rosas,  R. 


Reinosa,  R. 

Military  and  naval  men,  and  all  who  take  interest  (and  what 
Englishman  does  not  ?)  in  the  fair  fame  of  our  arms,  must  ever  connect 
the  Peninsula  with  one  great  association,  the  War  of  Giants  waged 
there  by  Wellington,  and  all  who  desire  to  know  the  real  rights  of  it, 
may  stow  in  their  saddlebags  the  well-compiled  Annals  of  the  Penvn- 
suLar  Campaigns,  by  Ifamilton,  revised  by  F.  Hardman,  1849.  Those 
who  cannot,  will  at  least  find  that  the  author  of  this  Handbook,  who  has 
performed  the  pilgrimage  to  these  hallowed  sites,  has,  so  far  as  limited 
space  permits,  recorded /ac^s.. 


No.  8.  A  MnjTARY  and  Naval  Tour. 


Cadiz      •  •  • 

Barrosa  •  •  • 

Trafalgar  •  • 

Tarifa     .  .  • 

Gibraltar  • 

Granada .  .  • 
Navas  de  Tolosa 
Bailen. 

Castalla  .  .  . 

Almansa.  •  • 

Valencia  • 

Murviedro  •  • 
Ordal. 


» Andalucia. 


Valencia. 


Burgos    .  • 

Navarrete  • 

Espinosa .  • 

Somosierra  • 

Rioseco   •  . 

Benavente  • 

Salamanca  . 
Cindad  Rodrigo 

El  Bodon  . 

La  Coruna  . 
San  Payo 

Vigo  .     .  . 
Cape  Finisterre. 


Old  Castile. 


Leon. 


Gallicia. 


Spain, 

Barcelona 
Molins  del  Rey 
Broch      • 
Bosas 
Oerona    . 
Figueras 
Lerida     • 
Almenara 
Belchite  . 
JZaragoza 
Tadela    . 
Pamplona 
Vera  • 
San  Marcial 
The  Bidasoa. 
San  Sebastian 
Hemani  . 
Yitoria    • 
Bilbao     . 


Catalonia. 


i 


Arragon. 
Navarre. 


X.   SKELETON  TOURS. 


Arroyo  Mollnos 
Almaraz  • 
Badajoz  • 
Albaera  • 
Gevora    • 
Medellin. 
Talavera. 
Madrid    . 
Ocana 
Ucles       • 
Viilaviciosa 
Montiel   » 
Ciadad  Real 
Sierra  Morena 


47 


Estremadura. 


New  Castile. 


La  Mancha. 


-  Basqae  proviDces. 


No.  9.   Shooting  and  Fishing  Tours. 


Although  game  is  not  preserved  in  Spain  as  among  ourselves,  it  is 
abandant ;  nature,  by  covering  the  earth  with  aromatic  brushwood  in 
vast  eiLtents  of  uninhabited,  uncultivated  land,  has  afforded  excellent 
•cover  to  the  wild  beasts  of  the  field  and  fowls  of  the  air ;  they  are 
poached  and  destroyed  at  all  seasons,  and  in  every  unfair  manner,  and 
•  more  for  pot  considerations,  than  sport — especially  near  the  towns.  *The 
JercB  natures  flourish,  however,  wherever  the  lords  of  the  creation  are  rude 
and  rare.  The  game  takes  care  of  itself,  and  is  abundant,  not  from  being 
strictly  preserved,  but  from  not  being  destroyed  by  scientific  sportsmen. 
Spain  was  always  the  land  of  the  rabbit  (c(mejo\  which  the  Phoenicians 
saw  here  for  the  first  time,  and  hence  some  have  traced  the  origin  of  the 
name  Hispania,  to  the  Sephan,  or  rabbit  of  the  Hebrew.  This  animal 
figured  on  the  early  coins  of  the  cuniculosce  Cdtilberice,  (Catullus,  xxxv. 
18.)  Large  ships  freighted  with  them  were  regularly  sent  from  Cadiz  for 
ike  supply  of  Rome  (Strabo,  iii.  214).  The  rabbit  is  still  the  favourite 
shooting  of  Spaniards,  who  look  invariably  to  the  liu*der.  Pheasants 
are  very  rare :  a  bird  requiring  artificial  feeding'-  cannot  be  expected 
to  thrive  in  a  country  where  half  the  population  is  underfed.  Red- 
legged  partridges  and  hares  are  most  plentiful.  The  mouths  of  the 
great  rivers  swarm  with  aquatic  birds.  In  Andalucia  the  multitude 
of  bustards  and  woodcocks  is  incredible.  There  is  very  little  diffi- 
culty in  procuring  leave  to  shoot  in  Spain ;  a  licence  to  carry  a  gun 
is  required  of  every  native,  but  it  is  seldom  necessary  for  an  Eng- 
lishman. The  moment  a  Spaniard  gets  out  of  town  he  sboulders 
3,  gun,  for  the  custom  of  going  armed  is  immemorial.  Game  is 
usually  divided  into  great  and  small:  the  Caza  mayor  includes 
•deer,  venadosy  wild  boars,  javalis,  and  the  chamois  tribe,  cabroi  mon- 
taneses :  by  Caza  menor  is  understood  foxes,  rabbits,  partridges,  and 
such  like  "  small  deer."  Winter  fowl  is  abundant  wherever  there  is 
water,  and  the  flights  of  quails  and  woodcocks,  codomices  y  gaUinetaSy 
quite  marvellous.    The  Englishman  will  find  shooting  in  the  neigh- 


48  X.  SKELETON  TOURS.  Sect.  T. 

bourhood  of  Seville  and  Gibraltar.    There  is  some  difficulty  in  intro- 
ducing our  guns  and  ammunition  into  Spain,  even  from  Gibraltar. 

The  lover  of  the  angle  will  find  virgin  rivers  in  Spain,  that  jumble 
of  mountains^  down  the  bosoms  of  which  they  flow ;  most  of  these 
abound  in  trout,  and  those  which  disembogue  into  the  Bay  of  Biscay 
in  salmon.  As  good  tackle  is  not  to  be  procured  in  Spain,  the  angler 
will  bring  out  everything  from  England.  The  best  localities  are  Pla- 
sencia,  Avila,  Cuenca,  and  the  whole  country  from  El  Vierzo,  Gallicia, 
the  Asturias,  the  Basque  provinces,  and  Pyrenean  valleys. 

No.  10.  DiLLETANTE  ToURS. — ScULPTURB. 

Seville,  S.  Madrid,  R.  Rioseco,  R. 

Granada,  C.  Toledo,  C.  Valladolid,  C. 

Murcia,  R.  Escorial,  C.  Barges,  C. 

Valencia,  R.  Avila,  R.  Zaragoza,  C. 

.  Caenca,  R.  Salamanca,  R.  Huesca,  R. 

There  is  very  little  good  ancient  sculpture  in  Spain,  and  there  never 
was  much ;  for  when  the  Peninsula  became  a  Roman  province,  the  arts 
of  Greece  were  in  the  decline,  and  whatever  sculpture  was  executed  here 
was  the  work  either  of  Romans  or  Spaniards,  who  never  excelled  in  that 
art.  Again,  most  of  whatever  statuary  was  introduced  into  the  Penin- 
sula by  the  Trajans  and  Adrians,  was  destroyed  by  the  Vandal  Goths, 
who,  as  Christians,  abhorred  the  graven  images  of  pagan  gods,  and 
hated  Rome,  its  works,  and  especially  those  connected  with  the  fine 
artSj  to  which  they  attributed  degeneracy  and  effeminacy ;  thus,  when 
they  struck  down  the  world-oppressor,  they  cast  the  statues  of  its  chiefs 
from  the  pedestal,  and  the  idols  from  the  altar.  The  Goth  was  sup*- 
planted  by  the  Moor,  to  whose  creed  iconoclasm  was  essential ;  he  swept 
away  whatever  had  escaped  from  his  predecessor;  nay,  the  pagan 
fragments  and  papal  substitutes  were  alike  treated  with  studied  insult, 
either  buried,  to  prevent  resurrection,  in  the  foundations  of  their  build- 
ings, or  worked  in  as  base  materials  for  their  city  walls.  The  Spaniards 
as  a  people  have  no  great  archaeological  tendency.  Bom  and  bred  in  a 
country  whose  soil  is  strewed  with  the  ruins  of  creeds  and  dynasties, 
and  their  edifices,  they  view  the  relics  with  the  familiarity  and  contempt  of 
the  Bedouin,  as  old  stones,  which  he  neither  admires  nor  preserves;  if  they 
excavate  at  all,  it  is  in  hopes  of  finding  buried  hoards  of  coin  ;  accord- 
ingly, whenever  mere  antique  remains  are  dug  up,  they  have  too  often 
been  reburied,  or  those  which  any  rare  alcalde  of  taste  may  have  collected, 
are  left  at  his  death  to  chance  and  decay ;  in  the  provincial  towns  the 
fragments  are  lumpei  together  after  the  fashion  of  a  mason's  stoneyard. 
Classification  and  arrangement  are  not  Spanish  or  Oriental  qualities. 

The  Church,  again,  almost  the  sole  patron  of  sculpture,  only  encou- 
raged that  kind  which  best  served  its  own  purpose.  She. had  little 
feeling  for  ancient  art  for  itself,  which,  if  over-studied,  necessarily 
has  a  tendency  to  reproduce  a  heathen  character  and  anti-Christian. 
Cathedral  and  convent  also,  who  had  their  own  models  of  Astartes^ 
Minervas,  and  Jupiters,  in  their  images  of  the  Virgin  and  saints, 
abhorred  a  rival  idol.  Thus  Florez  and  other  antiquarians  (the  best  of 
whom  have  been  clergymen  and  busied  about  the  archaeology  of  their 


Spain.  X.  Spanish  sculpture.  49 

own  Church  and  religion  constantly  apologise  for  bestowing  attention 
on  such  un- Christian  inquiries. 

The  historical  research  of  Spaniards  has  hitherto  been  seldom  critical ; 
they  loved  to  flounder  about  Tubal  and  Hercules ;  and  when  peoi)le 
have  recourse  to  mythology,  it  is  clear  that  history  will  not  serve  their 
ends.  The  discussion  and  authenticity  of  a  monk's  bone  have  long 
been  of  more  importance  than  a  relic  of  Phidias.  Yet  Spain  may  be 
said  to  be  "  potted  "  for  antiquarians,  as  the  conservative  climate  of 
many  portions  of  the  Peninsula  rivals  even  that  of  Egypt,  in  the  absence 
of  damp,  "  your  whoreson  destroyer."  Thus  Roman  bridges,  aqueducts, 
tanks,  and  causeways  exist  in  actual  use,  almost  unimpaired  ;  nay,  even 
the  fragile  Tarkish,  the  plaster-of-Paris  wall-embroidery,  the  **  diaper, 
or  pargetting,"  of  the  Moors,  often  looks,  after  the  lapse  of  ten  centuries, 
wherever  man  has  not  destroyed  it,  almost  as  fresh  and  perfect  as  when 
first  put  up.  The  catena  of  monuments  from  the  cradle  of  the  restored 
monarchy  is  almost  complete ;  and,  such  is  the  effect  of  climate,  that 
they  even  disappoint  from  lacking  the  venerable  aerugo  of  age  to  which 
we  are  accustomed  in  a  less  beneficent  climate ;  so  many  things  in  Spain 
look  younger  by  centuries  than  they  really  are. 

The  best  and  most  national  sculpture  of  Spain  is  either  mediaeval  or 
consists  of  religious  subjects,  sepulchral  monumentfl  or  graven  images ; 
unfortunately  many  of  the  former,  from  being  placed  in  convents  founded 
expressly  for  the  burial  place  of  nobles  and  prelates,  were  first  mutilated 
by  the  enemy  and  have  perished  since  the  suppression  of  monasteries. 
The  Spanish  name  for  a  site  or  vault  destined  to  many  burials  of  one 
family,  is  oddly  enough  termed  a  Pantheon,  Some  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent mausoleums  were  executed  by  Italian  artists  from  Genoa  and 
Florence,  to  whom  several  Spaniards  proved  worthy  rivals.  .ITiese 
memorials  are  among  the  choice  things  to  be  observed.  The  Christian 
sentiment  rules  impressively  in  them  ;  there  is  no  aping  the  creed  or 
costume  of  Pagan  antiquity, — everything  speaks  of  the  orthodox  faith 
of  the  period  and  people ;  the  prelate  and  the  soldier  alike  lie  stretched 
on  the  bed  of  death,  and  the  hands  clasped  in  prayer,  now  that  sword 
and  crozier  are  laid  aside,  indicate  a  trust  in  another  life.  Emblems  of 
human  fragility  they  lay  fiat  and  dead,  while  faith  was  alive  :  but  as 
infidelity  crept  in,  worldly  pride  kept  pace,  and  sepulchral  figures  began 
to  rise,  first  on  elbows,  then  on  seats,  to  stand  boldly  bolt  upright  at 
last. 

Many  of  these  fine  Spanish  sepulchres  have  been  carefully  and  accu- 
rately drawn  by  Don  Valentin  Carderera,  to  be  hereafter,  we  tnist, 
engraved,  and  thus  in  some  sort  preserved. 

Spanish  Sculpture. 

Spanish  sculpture  is  so  peculiar  in  one  branch,  and  has  hitherto  been 
80  little  critically  considered,  that  the  attention  of  the  scholar  and 
archaeologist  may  be  called  to  it  in  a  page  or  two.  This  branch  includes 
the  holy  images,  and  these  Simvlacros  y  IrriageneSy  are  as  little  changed  in 
name  and  object  as  the  simulacra  et  imagines  of  the  Pagan  Romans. 
Some  are  destined  to  be  worshiped  in  niches  and  on  altars,  others  to 
be  carried  about  in  the  streets  by  cof radios,  or  brotherhoods,  for  adora- 
tion during  religious  ceremonies,  and  especially  during  passion  week, 

Spain.— I.  » 


50  X.   SPANISH  RELIGIOUS  SCULPTURE.  Sect.  I. 

whence  such  graven  figures  are  called  Pasos.  They  are  the  identical 
^oava,  the  eidcaXa,  the  idols  which  the  lust  of  the  human  eye  required, 
the  doll  or  cheats  of  the  devil,  whence  S.  Isidore  derives  the  name  of 
an  invention  which  nowhere  now  rules  more  triumphantly  than  in  his 
own  Seville. 

The  great  demand  for  these  carvings  has  induced  many  first-rate 
artists  in  Spain  to  devote  themselves  to  this  branch  of  sculpture  ;  hence 
Cano,  Montafies,  Roldan,  Becerra,  Juni,  and  Fernandez  rank  exactly 
as  Daedalus,  Emilis,  and  others  did  among  the  ancients.  The  fine 
specimens  of  their  works  have  a  startling  reality ;  the  stone  statues  of 
monks  actually  seem  fossils  of  a  cmce  living  being ;  many  others  are 
exquisitely  conceived  and  executed ;  unfortunately,  from  the  prudery  of 
Spanish  draperies,  much  of  the  anatomical  excellence  is  concealed 
from  being  dressed  and  painted ;  strictly  speaking,  they  attempt  too 
much.  The  essence  of  statuary  is  form,  and  to  clothe  a  statue,  said 
Byron,  is  like  translating  Dante :  a  marble  statue  never  deceives  ;  the 
colouring  it  does,  and  is  a  device  beneath  the  severity  of  sculpture. 
The  imitation  of  life  may  surprise,  but,  like  colossal  toys,  barbers' 
blocks,  and  wax-work  figures,  when  bad,  it  chiefly  pleases  the  ignorant 
and  children  of  a  large  or  small  growth,  to  whom  a  painted  doll  gives 
more  pleasure  than  the  Apollo  Belvidere.  The  resemblance  is  obvious, 
and  cannot  give  pleasure,  from  want  of  the  transparency  of  skin  and 
the  absence  of  life.  The  imitation,  so  exact  in  form  and  colour,  suggests 
the  painful  idea  of  a  dead  body,  which  a  statue  does  not.  Most  of 
these  images  appear  to  strangers  at  first  revolting  or  ridiculous;  but 
the  genius  of  the  Spaniard  seeks  the  material  and  natural  rather  than 
spiritual  and  ideal,  and  the  masses  require  objects  of  adoration  suited 
to  their  defective  taste  and  knowledge,  so  their  sapient  church  has  largely 
provided  for  their  cravings — ^hence  the  legions  of  tinsel  caricatures  of 
the  human  and  divine  which  encumber  the  houses  of  God,  but  which 
delight  and  afifcct  the  nation  at  large,  much  more  than  a  statue  by 
Phidias.  The  illiterate  congregations  gaze  with  a  sincere  faith  ;  they 
come  to  worship,  not  to  criticise,  and  bow  implicitly  down,  with  all 
their  bodies  and  souls,  before  the  stocks  and  stones  set  up  for  them  by 
their  pastors  and  masters.  The  devotional  feeling  prevails  entirely  over 
the  aesthetic ;  and  at  all  events  these  tangible  and  bodily  representations 
of  persons  and  events  connected  \vith  the  Scriptures  and  church  legends, 
realised  them  to  those  who  could  see,  but  not  read,  and  thus  did  their 
work  well  before  the  schoolmaster  was  abroad.  Now  they  have  served 
their  turn,  and  when  the  dislocated  and  desecrated  groups  are  moved  from 
the  temple  to  the  museum,  for  which  they  were  never  intended — ^when 
they  are  thus  placed  in  a  secular  gallery,  the  original  sentiment  is  lost, 
as  well  as  the  fitness  and  meaning  of  the  rdigio  loci.  In  their  original 
chapels  they  had  a  speaking  reference  to  the  tutelar  patron  or  miracle ; 
but  the  cheat,  of  their  tinsel  colours  and  clothing,  which  was  concealed 
in  the  solemn  semi>gloom,  is  revealed  in  the  broad  daylight,  and  they 
look  like  monks  turned  out  of  their  convent  into  the  wide  world. 
Many  of  the  smaller  ^qava  are  preserved  in  glass  cases,  after  the 
fashion  of  surgical  preparations. 

The  works  of  the  following  sculptors  are  the  best  deserving  of  notice ; 
'  ey  flourished  or  died  about  the  period  affixed  to  their  names,  as  given 
Cean  Bermudez,  to  whom  refer  for  details  : — 


Spain, 


X.   SPANISH  PAINTED  SCULPTURE. 


Mateo,  El  Maestro  1188 
AlemaD,  Juan  . .  • .  1460 
Dancart,  El  Maestro  1495 
FlorentijQ,  Miguel .  1510 
Torrigiano,  Pedro*  1520 
iBartolome,      £1 

Maestro 1 520 

Forment,  Damien .  1525 
Valdelvira,  Pedro .  1540 
Copin,   Diego  and 

Miguel 1540 

Borgona,  Felipe  de  1543 


Berruguete,  Alonso  1545 
Tordesillas,  Caspar 

de 1545 

Machuca,  Pedro. . .  1545 

Xamete 1550 

Leoni,  Leon... . ..   1555 

Villalpando,  Franco  1561 
Siloe,  £)iegode  ...   1562 

Tudelilla 1566 

Morel,  Bartolom^  .  1566 
Becerra,  Caspar  ..  1566 
Ancheta,  Miguel  de  1575 


51 

Juni,  Juan  de  .  •  • .  1585 
Trezzo,  Jacome . .  •  1 589 
Jordan,  Esteban  . .  1590 
Leoni,  Pompeyo  . .  1605 
Hernandez,      Cre- 

gorio 1635 

Pereyra,  Manuel .  •  1645 
Montanes,    Joan 

Martinez  ..••• .  1645 
Cano,  Alonso.  • . .  •  1650 
Roldan,  Pedro ....  1 650 


The  Spanish  painted  and  dressed  images  so  precisely  tally  in  material, 
form,  painting,  dressing,  and  adoration,  "with  those  of  Pagan  antiquity, 
that  the  scholar  will  pardon  a  few  more  remarks,  which  those  who  will 
Dot,  can  skip,  or  turn  to  the  Academic  des  Inscriptions,  zxziv.  35  ;  to 
Quatremere  de  Quincy,  Jup.  Oly.  p.  8,  s.  9 ;  and  particularly  to  Miiller, 
Hand-buch  der  Kunst  (1830),  p.  42  et  seq.  Statues  of  marble  were  a 
late  introduction  in  Italy  (Plin.  Nat.  Hist.,  xxxiv.  7),  and  are  still 
very  rare  in  Spain.  Cedar  and  the  resinous  woods  were  older  and 
preferred  from  the  "  eternity  of  the  material "  (Plin.  Nat.  Hist.,  xiii.  6). 
The  Cyllenian  Mercury  was  made  of  the  arhor  vitce,  Ovov,  the  exact 
Alerce  of  Spain.  When  decayed  they  were  replaced.  Pliny,  jun.  (Ep. 
ix.  39),  writes  to  his  architect,  Mustius,  to  make  or  get  him  a  new 
Ceres,  as  the  old  one  was  wearing  out.  Pausanias  (ii.  19.  3)  mentions 
the  $oavov  of  Argos,  the  work  of  Attains  the  Athenian,  just  as  Ponz 
would  cite  the  Sau  Jeronimo  of  Montanes  at  Italica.  It  is  difficult  to 
read  Pausanias,  and  his  accounts  of  the  statues  new  and  old,  th^  temples 
ruined  and  rebuilt,  without  feeling  how  much  would  suit  a  Greek  hand^ 
hook  for  Spain,  mutatis  mutandis,  so  many  objects  pointed  out  to  notice 
resemble  each  other  in  nature  and  condition.  Some  ^ava,  as  is  the 
case  in  Spain  at  this  moment,  were  made  of  baked  clay,  terra  cotta, 
because  cheaper.  Juvenal  (Sat.  xi.  116)  and  Josephus  (contr.  Ap.  ii.  35) 
laugh  at  these  makeshifts.  They,  however,  answered  the  purposes  for 
which  they  were  intended  just  as  well  then  as  now.  The  ancient  ^oava, 
like  the  SjMuush  Fasos,  had  their  prescriptive  colours.  As  Ee  of  Egypt, 
like  Pan,  was  painted  red,  Osiris,  black  and  green,  the  Athena  of  Skiras, 
white,  and  Apollo's  face  was  frequently  gilded,  so  in  Spain  the  Virgin 
in  her  *  Purisvma  Concepcion^  is  always  painted  in  blue  and  white, 
St.  John  is  always  dressed  in  green,  and  Judas  Iscariot  in  yellow :  "  and 
«o  intimately,"  says  Blanco  White  ("  Letters,"  289),  "  is  this  circum- 
stance associated  with  the  idea  of  the  traitor,  that  it  is  held  in  universal 
discredit."  Persons  taken  to  execution  are  clad  in  yellow  serge.  That 
colour  was  also  adopted  by  the  Inquisition  for  their  san  henito,  or  dress 
of  heresy  and  infamy.  The  hair  of  Judas  is  always  red,  or  of  Rosalind's 
**  dissembling  colour  something  browner  than  Judas's."    Athenaeus 

£7),  in  that  most  curious  account  of  the  procession  of  the  images  of 
ccnus,  mentions  that  his  ayaX/xa  was  clad  in  purple,  and  that  of  Nyssa 
in  yeUow.  Much  of  this  chromatology,  no  doubt,  is  based  on  traditions 
preserved  by  these  rubrical  formulae.  The  ancient  temples,  like  the 
Christian  churches  in  the  middle  ages,  were  painted  with  blue,  vermilior 

D  2 


52  X.   SPANISH  CHURCH  IMAGES.  Soct.  I. 

and  gilding,  and,  rightly  in  an  artistical  point  of  view,  it  became  neces- 
sary to  dress  and  colour  the  images  up  to  the  general  tone  of  everything 
around  them ;  they  otherwise  would,  have  had  a  cold  and  ineffective 
character.  This  colouring  in  Spain  was  deemed  of  such  importance, 
that  Alonso  Cano  and  Montaiies  generally  stipulated  that  no  one  but 
themselves  should  paint  the  figures  which  they  carved,  or  give  that 
peculiar  surface  enameling  called  el  estofar.  When  properly  carved 
and  consecrated,  these  figures  were  treated  by  the  ancients,  and  now 
are  by  the  Spaniards,  exactly  as  if  they  were  living  deities.  Real 
food  was  provided  for  them  and  their  chaplains.  They  were  washed 
by  attendants  of  their  own  sex.  In  Spain  no  man  is  allowed  to  imdress 
the  Paso  or  sagrada  imagen  of  the  Virgin,  which  is  an  office  of  highest 
honour.  Some  images,  like  earthly  queens,  have  their  camarera  major, 
their  mistress  of  the  robes.  This  duty  has  now  devolved  on  venerable 
single  ladies,  and  thence  has  become  almost  a  term  of  reproach,  luz 
qvsdado  para  vestir  imagenes,*  just  as  Tumus  derides  Alecto,  when 
disguised  as  an  old  woman,  "  cura  tibi  effigies  Divum,  et  templa  tueri.'* 
The  making  and  embroidering  the  superb  dresses  and  "  Petticoats  "  of 
the  Virgin  afford  constant  occupation  to  the  devout,  and  is  one  reason 
why  this  Moorish  manufacture  still  thrives  pre-eminently  in  Spain. 
Her  costume,  when  the  Pasos  are  borne  in  triumphal  procession  through 
the  streets,  forms  the  object  of  envy,  critique,  and  admiration. 

All  this  dressing  is  very  Pagan  and  ancient.  We  have  in  Callimachus 
the  rules  for  toilette  and  oiling  the  hair  of  the  $oavov  of  Minerva ;  any 
man  who  saw  it  naked  was  banished  from  Argos,  a  crime  punished 
in  the  myth  of  Acteon  and  Diana.  The  grave  charge  brought  against 
Clodius  by  Cicero  was,  that  he  had  profaned  the  Bona  Dea  by  his 
presence.'  The  wardrobe  of  Egyptian  Isis  was  provided  at  the  public 
cost ;  and  Osiris  had  his  state-dress,  Upov  Koa-fiov.  The  Peplum  of 
Minerva  was  the  fruit  of  the  five  years'  work  of  Athenian  matrons 
and  virgins.  Castas  velamina  Divae.  The  Eoman  signa  were  so  well 
dressed,  that  it  was  considered  to  be  a  compliment  to  compare  a  fine  lady 
to  one.  Plant.  Epid.  (v.  1,  18).  The  ancients  paid  much  more  atten- 
tion to  the  decorum  and  propriety  of  costume  than  the  Spaniards.  In 
the  remote  villages  and  in  the  mendicant  convents  the  most  ridiculous 
masquerades  were  exhibited,  such  as'  the  Saviour  in  a  court-dress,  with 
wig  and  breeches,  whereat  the  Due  de  St.  Simon  was  so  offended 
(xx.  113).  The  traveller  must  learn  to  bear  with  stranger  sights.  If 
once  a  people  can  be  got  to  hdieve  that  a  manequin  is  their  god,  if  they 
can  get  over  this  first  st«p,  nothing  else  ought  to  create  either  a  smile 
or  surprise.  These  Pasos  are  brought  out  on  grand  occasions,  prin- 
cipally during  the  Holy  Week.  The  expense  is  great,  both  in  the 
construction  and  properties  of  the  melo-dramatic  machinery,  and  in 
the  number  of  persons  employed  in  managing  and  attending  the  cere- 
monial. The  French  invasion,  the  progress  of  poverty  and  infidelity, 
has  tended  to  reduce  the  number  of  Pasos,  which  amoimted,  previously, 
to  more  than  fifty,  for  instance,  in  Seville.  Every  parish  had  its  own 
figure  or  group;  particular  incidents  of  our  Saviour's  passion  were 
represented  by  companies,  Cof  radios,  Mermandades,  who  took  the  name 

*  The  idol  of  Jas^mant,  in  even  British  India,  had  some  641  attendants  :~120  cooks» 
"^0  keepers  of  the  wardrobe,  and  3  persons  to  paint  the  eyebrows. 


Spain.  X.   IMAGES  OF  THE  VIBOIN,  53 

from  the  event:  they  were  the  Upfj  tOmi  of  the  Bofletta  stone,  the 
Kafuuruu  of  Clemens  Alex.  (Strom,  v.  242),  the  ancient  eraipuu^  the 
SodalitcUes,  the  unions,  the  Collegia  which  in  Rome  were^Bo  powerful, 
nmnerous,  and  well  organized  that  Julius  Caesar  took  care  to  put  them 
down  (Suet.  42).  The  Sovereign  of  Spain  is  generally  the  Hermuno 
Mayor,  These  guilds,  lodges  constituted  on  the  masonic  principle, 
give  an  occupation  to  the  memhers,  and  gratify  their  personal  vanity 
by  rank,  titles,  and  personal  decorations,  banners,  emblems,  and 
glittering  tomfoolery.  The  expenses  are  defrayed  by  a  small  subscrip- 
tion. The  affairs  are  directed  by  the  Teniente  Eermano  Mayor  nom- 
hrado  por  8,  M,  There  is  no  lack  of  fine  sounding  appellations  or 
paraphernalia,  in  which  Spaniards  delight. 

Seville  and  Valencia  still  more,  are  the  head-quarters  of  these  Lectin- 
temia,  Anteludia^  and  processions.  And  really  when  a  Protestant  scholar 
beholds  them,  and  remembers  his  classical  studies,  time  and  space  are 
annihilated,  he  is  carried  back  to  Amobius  (lib.  vii.),  *'  Lavatio  Dcum 
matris  est  hodie,  Jovis  epulum  eras  est,  lectisternium  Cereris  est  idibus 
proximis;"  and  the  newspapers  of  the  day  now  give  just  the  same 
sort  of  notices.  The  images  are  moved  on  platforms,  Andas,  and 
pushed  on  by  men  concealed  under  draperies.  The  Pasos  are  quite  as 
heavy  to  the  weary  as  were  those  of  Bel  and  Nebo  (Isaiah  xlvi.  1), 
Among  the  ancients,  not  only  the  images  of  the  gods,  but  the  sacred 
boat  of  Osiris,  the  shrine  of  Isis,  the  ark  of  the  Jews,  were  borne  on 
staves,  just  as  now  is  done  with  the  custodia  in  Spain.  Those  who  wish 
to  compare  the  analogy  and  practice  of  the  ancient  and  still  existing 
proceedings  in  Spain,  are  referred  to  the  sixth  ctiapter  of  Baruch, 
wherein  he  describes  the  identical  scenes  .and  Babylonian  Pasos — their 
dresses,  the  gilding,  the  lights,  &c.;  or  to  Athenaeus  (v.  7)  and  Apuleius 
(Met.  ii.  241),  who,  mutatis  mutandis,  have  shown  "  what  to  observe  " 
and  describe  in  Spain,  especially  as  regards  the  Pasos  of  the  Virgin, 
Thus  the  Syrian  Venus  was  carried  by  an  inferior  order  of  priests : 
Apuleius  calls  them  Pastoferi,  the  Spaniards  might  fairly  tenn  theirs 
Pasoferi;  Paso,  strictly  speaking,  means  the  figure  of  the  Saviour 
during  his  passion.  The  Paso,  however,  of  the  Virgin  is  the  most 
popular,  and  her  gold-embroidered  and  lace  pocket  handkerchief  long 
set  the  fashion  for  the  season  to  the  Andalucian  dandyzettes,  as  the 
procession  of  the  Long-Champs  does  at  Paris.  This  is  the  exact 
Megalesia  in  honour  of  the  Mother  of  the  Gods,  the  Great  Goddess 
fuyakfi6€osy  which  took  place  in  April  (see  Pitiscus,  in  voce,  for  the 
singular  coincidences)  ;  and  the  ^joso  of  Salambo,  the  Babylonian  Astarte 
Aphrodite  (see  Hesychius),  was  carried  through  Seville  with  all  the 
Phoenician  rites  even  down  to  the  3rd  century,  when  Santa  Rufina  and 
Justina,  the  present  patronesses  of  the  cathedral  tower,  were  torn  to 
pieces  by  the  populace  for  insulting  the  image ;  and  such  would  be 
the  case  should  any  tract-distributing  spinster  fly  in  the  face  of  the 
Sa/grada  imagen  de  la  Virgen  del  mayor  dolor  y  traspasOj  whicli  is  now 
carried  at  about  the  same  time  of  the  year  through  the  same  streets 
and  almost  precisely  in  the  same  manner ;  indeed,  Florez  admits  (E. 
S.  ix.  3)  that  this  paso  of  Salambo  represented  the  grief  and  agony 
felt  by  Venus  for  the  death  of  Adonis.  A  female  goddess  seems  always 
to  have  been  popular  among  all  Southrons  and  Orientals.    Thus  Venu-^ 


54  X.  DILLETANTE  TOURS. — ^PAINTIKG.  Sect.  L 

when  carried  in  pomp  round  the  circus,  was  hailed  with  the  same 
deafening  applause  (Ovid.  Art.  Am.  i.  147)  as  the  goddess  Doorga, 
when  borne  ^n  her  gorgeous  throne,  draws  from  the  admiring  Hindoos- 
at  this  day  (Buchanan's  Resear.  in  Asia,  p.  265),  or  the  Virgin's  image 
does  at  Seville.  There  is  little  new  of  anything  under  the  sun,  and 
still  less  in  human  devices.  Many  a  picturesque  Papal  superstition 
has  been  anticipated  by  Paganism,  as  almost  every  bold  vj^ary  of  Pro- 
testant dissent  has  been  by  the  fanatics  of  the  early  ages  of  the  church ; 
whatever  is  found  to  have  answered  at  one  time  will  probably  answer 
at  another,  for  poor  human  nature  seldom  varies  in  conduct,  when 
given  circumstances  are  much  the  same. 

No.  11.-— DILLETANTE  TOURS. — ^PAINTING. 

Seville.  Madrid,  C.  Valencia,  C. 

There  are  three  great  schools  of  Spanish  painting,  Seville,  Valencia,, 
and  Madrid,  and  the  productions  of  their  chief  masters  are  best  to  be 
studied  in  their  own  localities.  Few  cities  in  Spain  possess  good  col- 
lections of  pictures,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  capital,  those  which 
do,  are  seldom  enriched  with  any  specimens  oi foreign  schools,  for  such 
is  that  of  Valencia  as  regards  Seville,  and  vice  verm.  The  Spaniards 
have  ever  used  their  art  as  they  do  their  wines  and  other  gifts  of  the 
soil ;  they  just  consume  what  is  produced  on  the  spot  and  is  nearest  at 
hand,  ignorant  and  indifferent  as  regards  all  others,  even  be  they  of  a 
higher  quality. 

The  earliest  art  in  Spain,  as  exemplified  in  missals,  offers  no  national 
peculiarity.  The  first  influence  was  produced  by  the  family  of  the  Van 
Eyk's,  of  whom  John  visited  Portugal  in  1428 ;  and  M.  Gachard  ha& 
shown  that  he  went  on  to  the  Alhambra  to  paint  the  Moorish  kings.. 
The  Flemish  element  yielded  to  the  Italian  in  the  16th  century,  which, 
after  a  brief  period  of  Spanish  nationality,  faded  into  the  French  school. 
The  general  character,  is  Trutli  to  Spanish  nature,  expressed  in  a  grave, 
religious,  draped,  and  decent  style,  marked  by  a  want  of  the  ideal, 
poetical,  refined,  and  imaginative.  The  naturalistic  imitation  is  carried 
fully  out,  for  the  Church,  the  great  patron,  neither  looked  to  Apelles  or 
Raphael,  to  Venus  or  the  Graces :  she  employed  painting  to  decorate 
her  churches,  not  private  residences ;  to  furnish  objects  of  devotion,  not 
of  beauty  or  delight ;  to  provide  painted  books  for  those  who  could  see 
and  feel,  but  who  could  not  read ;  her  aim  in  art  was  to  disseminate  and 
fix  on  the  popular  memory,  those  especial  subjects  by  which  her  system 
was  best  supported,  Aer  purposes  answered ;  and  her  Holy  Tribunal 
stood  sentinel  over  author  and  artist :  an  inspector — censor  y  veedor — 
was  appointed,  whose  duty  it  was  to  visit  the  studies  of  sculptors  and 
painters,  and  either  to  destroy  or  to  paint  over  the  slightest  deviation 
from  the  manner  laid  down  in  their  rubric  for  treating  sacred  subjects : 
for  to  change  traditional  form  and  attribute  was  a  novelty  and  a  heresy, 
in  fact  a  creating  new  deities.  Spanish  pictures,  on  the  whole,  will, 
at  first  sight,  disappoint  aM  those  whose  tastes  have  been  formed 
beyond  the  Pyrenees ;  they  improve  upon  acquaintance  while  one  is 
living  in  Spain,  from  the  want  of  anything  better :  there,  however,  the 
lore  agreeable  subjects  are  seldom  to  be  seen,  for  these  naturally  have 


Spain.  X.   DILLETANTE  TODBS. — ABCHITECTURE.  55 

been  the  first  to  be  secured  by  foreigners,  who  have  left  the  gloomy 
and  ascetic  behind ;  thus,  in  all  the  Peninsula,  not  ten  ^of  Murillo*B 
gipsj  and  be^ar  pictures  are  to  be  found,  and  the  style  by  which  he 
is  l>est  known  in  England,  is  that  by  which  he  will  be  perhaps  the 
least  recc^nised  in  his  native  land. 

Our  readers  are  most  earnestly  cautioned  against  buying  pictures  in 
Spain;  they  will  indeed  be  offered,  warranted  originals,  by  Murillo, 
Velazquez,  and  so  forth,  more  plentifully  than  blackberries,  but  caveat 
emptor.  The  Peninsula  has  been  so  plundered  of  its  best  specimens  by 
the  iron  of  Soults,  Sebastianis,  and  Co.  in  war,  and  so  stripped  in  peace 
by  the  gold  of  purchasers,  that  nothing  but  the  veriest  dregs  remain  for 
sale ;  the  provincial  galleries,  Seville  and  Valencia  excepted,  prove  to 
demonstration  by  their  absence  of  the  good,  and  by  the  presence  of  un- 
mitigated rubbish,  the  extent  to  which  the  processes  of  removal  and 
collecting  have  been  carried  on.  The  best  Spanish,  and  the  almost 
naturalised  Spanish  painters  may  now  be  named ;  the  dates  indicate 
the  epoch  alxtut  which  they  flourished  or  died,  as  given  by  Gean  Ber- 
mudez  and  Stirling,  to  whom  refer  for  details :— - 


Rincon,  Antonio .  •  1 500  ' 
Fernandez,  Alejo  .1525 
Gallegos,Femando  1 530 
Campana,  Pedro..  15 52 
Vargas^  Luis  de .  •  1565 
Coello,  Alonso  San- 
chez   1565 

Navarrete,      Joan 

Fernandez 1 570 

Morales,  Lnis  de  .1575 
Theotocapoli,  Do- 

menico,  «2  Grecol  57 B 
Pardo,  Bias  del. . .  1579 
Villegas,  Pedro  de  1590 
Ribalta,  Francisco  1590 
Pantoja  de  la  Cruz, 
Joan 1595 


Cespedes,  Pablo  <le  1600 
Mascagio,  Arsenio  1600 
Joanes,    Juan  Vi- 
cente   1605 

Orrente,  Pedro. . .  1620 
Roelas,    Juan    de 

las 1625 

Espinosa,    Geroni- 

mo  Rodriguez . .  1630 
Bisquert,  Antonio.  1630 
Diaz,    Diego    Va- 
lentin • 1640 

Cano,  Alonso  ....  1645 
Herrera  el  Viejo.  .1655 
Ribera,  Josef  de . .  1655 
Velazquez,    Diego 
Silvade 1659 


Valdez,    Sebastian 

de  Llanos 1660 

Zurbaran,      Fran- 
cisco  1660 

Iriarte,  Ignacio  ..1660 

Moya,  Pedro 1 660 

Arellano,  Juan  de.  1670 
Bocanegra,    Pedro 

Atanasio 1675 

Carrefio,  Juan  Mi- 
randa de.* 1680 

Mnrillo,  Bartolom€ 

EstebjBui 1680 

Herrera,  El  Mozo.1680 
Cerezo,  Mateo. . .  .1680 
CoeUo,  Claudio  ..1680 
Goya 1800 


Spain  is  no  paradise  for  the  Print-collector;  calcography  never 
flourished  on  a  soil  where  the  graver  was  too  difiBcult  for  a  people  who 
bungle  when  mechanical  nicety  is  requisite.  Flemings  and  foreigners 
were  usually  employed.  The  native  copper  scratchers  just  supply 
the  coarse  prints  of  Madonnas,  miracle-working  monks,  &c.  These 
caricatures  of  art  answered  admirably  as  Dii  cubiculares,  and,  hung  up 
in  bedrooms,  allured  Morpheus  and  expelled  nightmare ;  and  now-a- 
days  French  artists  are  employed  in  lithographs,  and  any  works 
requiring  skill. 

Kg.  12. — SPANISH  ARCHTTECTUKE. — ^VABIETIES  AND  PERIODS. 

In  despite  of  the  ravages  of  foreign  and  domestic  Vandals,  Spain  is  still 
extremely  rich  in  edifices,  civil  and  religious,  of  the  highest  class ;  yet 
our  architects  and  archseologists  almost  ignore  a  land,  which  is  inferior 
to  none,  and  superior  to  many  countries  in  Europe,  in  variety  and  map 


56  X.  STYLES  OF  ARCHITECTURE.  Sect.  I. 

nificence  of  specimens  of  every  period,  character,  and  quality.  Moorish 
architecture  will  be  best  studied  in  Andalucia,  where  noble  specimens 
of  mosque,  palatial  fortress,  castle,  and  private  dwelling,  remain ;  suffice 
it  to  name  Seville,  Cordova,  and  Granada.  The  earliest  Spanish  build- 
ings will  be  found  in  the  Asturias,  the  cradle  of  the  monarchy ;  they 
are  generally  called  Obras  de  los  Oodos,  works  of  the  Goths — not  Gothic, 
or  Tedesco,  as  they  long  preceded  the  use  of  the  pointed  arch.  The 
Komanesque,  Byzantine,  and  in  some  districts  the  Norman,  succeeded 
and  led  to  this  later  Gothic,  and  the  examples  scattered  over  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  Peninsula  are  no  less  varied  than  splendid ;  there  are 
specimens  of  every  period  and  phase  of  this  glorious  and  most  Christian 
style,  advancing  in  fulness  of  beauty  tmtil  the  beginning  of  the  16th 
century,  when  it  set  at  once  in  all  its  glory,  to  be  followed  by  the  resto- 
ration of  the  antique,  or,  as  it  is  here  called,  the  Chrceco-Bomano  style. 
The  cinque-cento  taste — the  exquisite  Renaissance^  pace  Kuskin — which 
grew  out  of  this,  was  nowhere  carried  to  more  gorgeous  profusion  than 
in  Spain,  then  the  dominant  power  of  Europe.  The  semi-Moro  genius 
of  the  land  lent  itself  readily  to  arabesque  decoration  and  surface  orna- 
mentation :  the  native  quarries  furnished  precious  materials,  while  the 
New  World  lavished  gold  to  defray  the  cost.  This  style  was  exalted 
to  its  highest  grade  by  a  glorious  host  of  Spanish  artists,  who  rivalled 
in  marble  and  metal  the  Bramantes  and  Cellinis  of  Italy ;  from  its  deli- 
cate details,  wrought  like  a  finely-chiselled  piece  of  plate,  this  style  is 
called  in  Spain  el  Flateresco,  and  also  de  Berruguete,  from  the  name  of 
the  great  architect,  sculptor,  and  painter,  who  carried  it  out  to  its  full 
perfection,  and  whose  exquisite  works  are  deserving  of  the  closest 
study. 

The  Plateresque  period,  which  flourished  under  the  Imperial  Charles, 
waned  under  his  severe  son,  Philip  II.,  who  introduced  the  strictly 
classical,  and  eschewed  prodigality  of  ornament;  this  style  is  gene- 
rally known  in  Spain  as  that  of  Herrera,  from  being  sdopted  by  that 
illustrious  man,  the  builder  of  the  Escorial.  Architecture,  which  grew 
with  the  monarchy,  shared  in  its  decline,  and  succumbed  under  the 
influence  of  Churriguera,  whose  name,  like  that  of  a  heresiarch,  has 
become  synonymous  in  Spain,  with  his  doctrine  and  with  all  that  is  false 
and  vile  in  taste :  thus  el  Churriguerismo,  Ohurrigueresco,  is  used  in 
the  sense  of  Bococo  ;  marble  and  wood  were  then  tortured  into  absurd 
caprice,  and  gilding  plastered  on  with  greater  profusion  than  even  in  the 
worst  period  of  Louis  XIV.,  when  almost  everything  was  a  lie.  There 
is  scarcely  a  village  in  Spain  whose  parish  chu'rch  has  escaped  the  harpy 
touch  of  this  fatal  epoch ;  it  was  succeeded  by  the  Graeco-Romano 
academical  style,  with  all  its  exclusiveness,  pedantry,  and  prejudice, 
introduced  by  the  Bourbons,  and  practised  at  present.  Hence  the  poor 
conventionalities  of  their  modern  buildings,  without  soul,  spirit,  interest, 
or  nationality  (Longe  fuge !) ;  yet  these  bald  veneerings,  coldly  correct 
and  classically  dull,  are  admired  by  Spaniards,  who  point  them  out  to 
the  stranger's  notice,  in  preference  to  the  nobler  examples  of  the 
Moorish,  Gk>thic,  and  Cinque-cento  periods,  which  too  often  have  served 
as  **  quarries,"  for  when  jnere  fashion  rules,  the  one-idead  exclusionists 
"use  up"  the  monuments  of  better  days  as  materials:  the  systematic 

ersion  to  Moorish  remains — los  resahios  de  los  Moros — which  has  long 


i<pain. 


X.  CHIEF  SPANISH  ARCHITECTS.- 


57 


prevailed  in  Spsdn,  is  a  remnant  of  the  old  leaven  of  antagonistic  races : 
the  writings  and  admiration  of  foreigners  for  the  relics  of  these  elegant 
Orientals  have  somewhat  stayed  the  destroyer  and  pedant  purist  Iherian. 

The  lover  of  mediaeval  architecture  will  be  pained  indeed  in  many 
a  city  of  Spain :  her  age  of  religious  pomp  has  passed  away,  although 
that  of  railways  has  scarcely  begun.  The  length  and  breadth  of  the 
land  is  strewed  with  ruins,  the  fruits  of  this  century's  double  visitation, 
when  the  toe  of  the  modem  reformer  has  trodden  on  the  heel  of  the 
Gallic  invader.  Ruin,  in  this  respect  the  order  of  the  day  since  the 
Invasion  and  the  Civil  Wars,  has  culminated  in  the  suppression  of  the 
monastic  orders,  once  the  great  patrons  of  the  convent  and  cloister.  W  hile 
in  England  the  ravages  conmiitted  at  the  Keformatiou  are  mantled  with 
ivy  and  a  poetry  and  picturesqueness  added  by  the  gentle  hand  of  Time 
the  great  healer,  in  Spain  the  raw  wounds  gape  bleeding  in  all  their 
recent  hideousness.  The  Spaniard  in  the  mass  cares  for  none  of  these 
things ;  living  for  himself,  and  from  day  to  day,  he  neither  respects  the 
dead  nor  their  old  stones,  nor  until  the  mischief  was  nearly  done,  was  any 
thought  given  to  stay  the  evil :  socorros  de  Bapaiia,  tarda  o  nunca.  The 
Memoria  or  Report  of  Valentin  Carderera,  Madrid,  1845,  to  the  Commis- 
si<mers  of  Historical  and  Artistical  Monuments,  reveals  the  ravages 
committed  by  foreign  and  domestic  vandals,  the  apathy  of  local  autho- 
rities, their  **  no  will  and  no  way,"  the  want  of  funds  everywhere. 

The  Espana  Artistica  y  Monumental,  3  vols,  folio,  was  published  at 
Paris,  in  1846,  by  Genaro  Perez  Villamil,  an  artist  of  our  Roberts' 
school,  having  been  got  up  in  France,  from  want  in  Spain  of  litho- 
graphic-engravers. The  balderdash  portions  of  the  letterpress  were 
**  done  "  by  an  Afrancesado,  Patricio  Escosura.  Assuming  to  be  general, 
the  work  is  confined  to  the  particular  Castiles ;  many  of  the  drawings 
made  by  Don  Valentin  Carderera,  an  accurate  and  excellent  Aragonese 
archaeologist,  were  so  tampered  with  in  the  French  polishing  and 
"  cooking,"  that  lie  retired  from  the  concern  in  disgust.  (See  our 
Review  of  this  subject  in  the  "  Quarterly,"  CLIV.  vi.) 

Among  the  best  architects  of  Spain  the  following  may  be  mentioned. 
The  date  marks  the  epoch  about  which  they  flourished  or  died,  as  given 
by  Cean  Bermudez,  to  whom  refer  for  details : — 


THoda,  or  Fioda  . .  840 
Mateo,  Maestro  •  .1160 

Blay,  Pedro 1435 

Colonia,  Juan  de  .1442 
Gumiel,  Pedro ...  1492 
Egas,  Henrique  • .  1494 
Araudia,  Juan  de  .  1499 
Bermguete,  AloDso  1 500 
Andino,  Cristobal .  1500 
Hodrignez,  Alonso  1500 
Gil   de  HoDtanon, 

Juan 1511 

Covarrubias,  Al**. .  1512 


Badajoz,  Jaan  de  .1512 
Machnca,  Pedro . .  1520 
Ibarra,  Pedro  de.  .1520 
Ferment,  Damien.1520 

Ruiz,  Fernan 1520 

Borgona,  Felipe  •  •  1525 
Colouia,  Simon  de  1525 

Riano,  Diego 1 525 

Valdelvira,  Pedro.  1525 
Yoli,  Gabriel  ....1525 

Siloe,  Diego 1 525 

Bedel,  Pedro 1550 

Ezquerra,  Pedro .  •  1 550 


Xamete 1550 

Carpintero,  Macias  1 560 
Villalpando,  Fro.  .1560 
Herrera,  Juan  de  .1570 
Theotocapuli,Dom  1 575 
MoDegro,  J.  B.  .  .1580 
Mora,  Francisco . .  1 596 
Chnrriguera,  Jos^l725 
Javara,  Felipe  . .  .1736 
Rodriguez,  Ven- 
tura   1750 

Sabatini,Franci8co  1760 


Some  of  the  best  works  on  these  dilletante  subjects — a  prominent 

feature  in  this  book — ^will  be  found  at  p.  72. 

D  3 


58  X»  TECHNICAL  CHURCH  TERMS.  S^Ct.  I. 

Ko.  13. — ECCLESIOLOGICAL  TOUB. 

Seville,  S.  Madrid,  C.  Oviedo,  R.  S. 

Cordova,  C*  Avila,  R.  Leon,  R. 

Jaen,  C.  Escorial,  R.  Burgos,  R. 

Granada,  C.  Segovia,  C  Zaragoza,  C. 

Madrid,  C.  VaUadolid,  R.  Huesca,  R. 

Toledo,  C.  Salamanca,  R.  Barcelona,  C. 

Cuenca,  R.  Zamora,  R.  Tarragona,  C.  S» 

Alcaic  de  Henares,  R.        Santiago,  R.  Valencia,  C.  S. 

The  most  remarkable  churches  and  cathedrals  will  be  found  in  this 
route  ;  the  other  examples  worth  observation  will  be  pointed  out  at 
their  respective  localities.  As  a  general  rule  the  student  should  care- 
fully examine  the  metropolitan  cathedral  of  each  see,  as  it  will  be 
usually  found  to  furnish  the  type  of  the  minor  collegiate  and  parochial 
churches  within  the  diocese ;  and  although  a  general  homogeneous  style 
marks  architectural  periods  throughout  the  Peninsula,  yet  architecture^ 
like  dialects  and  costume,  has  its  localisms  and  provincialisms,  which  are 
very  pronoTmced  in  Spain,  itself  an  aggregate  of  unamalgamatlng  com- 
ponents. 

The  stranger  may  be  made  acquainted  with  some  of  the  leading  dis- 
positions and  technical  terms,  as  regards  the  Cathedrals  of  Spain,  which 
necessarily  form  a  leading  item  in  the  "  what  to  observe  "  of  intelligent 
investigators,  and  one  especial  object  of  this  Handbook ;  the  exteriors 
are  often  surrounded  with  a  l(mg  platform,  or  lonjaj  which,  if  ascended 
to  by  steps  is  called  a  gradttSy  "  grees ;"  the  principal  front  is  fre- 
quently left  unfinished,  first  in  order  to  disarm  the  evil  eye,  and  next 
to  serve  as  a  constant  pretext  for  begging  pious  contributions  for  its 
completion.  The  western  entrance  commonly  presents  the  chief  fapade, 
and  is  called  /achada  principal ;  the  naves,  naves,  are  supported  by 
piers,  pihnesj  from  whence  springs  the  roof,  hoveda.  The  side  aisles^ 
alas,  wings,  are  called  laterales,  co-lateraUs ;  at  the  doorways  is  a  pila, 
stoup,  or  binitier,  which  contains  the  agua  hendita,  or  holy  water,  with 
which,  as  the  devil  cannot  abide  it,  every  Spaniard  crosses  him  or  herself 
on  entrance,  santigitanse.  The  quire,  coro,  is  ordinarily  placed  in  the 
centre  nave,  thus  blocking  it  up  and  concealing  the  high  altar ;  its  back, 
which  fronts  the  spectator  who  enters  from  the  west,  is  called  d 
trascoro ;  the  lateral  sides  are  called  los  respaldos  del  coro,  over  which 
the  organs  are  usually  placed.  The  quire  is  lined  with  stalls,  siUas ; 
the  seats,  siUeria  del  coro,  are  generally  carved,  and  often  most  beauti- 
fully, as  are  the  desks  of  the  quirister's  books,  los  dtriles,  and  the 
lecterns  or  facistoHes, 

Opposite  to  the  coro  an  open  space  marks  the  centre  of  the  transept, 
cntcero,  over  which  rises  the  great  dome,  el  cimhorio ;  this  space  is  called 
the  "entre  los  dos  coros;"  it  divides  the  quire  from  the  high  altar ;  and  is 
usually  isolated  and  fenced  off  by  a  reja,  "  purclose,"^  or  railing  ;  these 
and  the  canceUi,  gratings  (whence  comes  our  term  chancel),  are  among 
the  most  remarkable  and  artistical  peculiarities  of  Spain,  and,  from 
being  made  of  iron,  have  happily  escaped  the  melting-pot.  The  pulpits, 
pudpitos,  cmbones,  generally  two  in  number,  are  {Saced  in  the  angle 
outside-  the  chancel :  they  are  fixed  N.W.  and  S.W.,  in  order  that  the 


Spain,  X.  T£GHNICAL  CHURCH  TERMS.  59 

preaclier  may  face  the  congregation,  who  look  towards  the  high  altar, 
without  his  turning  his  back  to  it.  Ascending  usually  by  steps  is  the 
capiUa  mayor,  el  presbiterio,  where  is  the  high  altar,  el  altar  mayor ^  on 
which  is  placed  a  tabernacle,  el  tahemaGido,  or  dboriOf  under  which 
the  consecrated  wafer  is  placed  in  a  virU,  or  open  *'  monstrance,''  when" 
ever  it  is  displayed,  or  manifestado.  When  the  wafer  is  not  so  ex- 
hibited, it  is  enclosed  in  a  sagrario,  or  tabernacle.  In  some  highly 
privileged  churches,  as  at  Lugo  and  Leon,  the  wafer  is  continually  dis- 
played for  public  adoration ;  in  others,  only  at  particular  times :  but 
generally,  in  great  towns,  this  privilee;e  is  conceded  to  all  the  churches 
by  rotation,  and  continues  during  40  hours,  las  cuarenta  horas,  which 
are  duly  mentioned  in  almanacs  and  newspapers.  From  the  high  altar 
rises  a  screen,  or  reredos,  called  el  retdbHo ;  these,  often  most  magnificent, 
are  reared  high  aloft,  and  crowned  with  a  "  holy  rood,"  la'  Santa  Cruz, 
which  is  the  representation  of  Christ  on  the  Cross,  with  St.  John  and 
the  Virgin  at  his  side.  The  retablos,  most  elaborately  designed,  carved, 
painted,  and  gilt,  estofado,  are  divided  into  compartments,  either  by 
niches  or  intercolumniations ;  the  spaces  are  filled  with  paintings  or 
sculpture,  generally  representing  the  life  of  the  Virgin,  or  of  the  Saviour, 
or  subjects  taken  from  the  Bible,  or  from  the  local  legends  and  tutelars, 
and  do  the  office  of  books  to  those  who  can  see,  but  cannot  read.  The 
place  of  honour  is  usually  assigned  to  la  Santisima,  the  most  blessed 
one,  the  Virgin,  the  "  Queen  of  Heaven "  (Jer.  xliv.  17),  the  real 
goddess,  the  Isis,  Astarte  and  Great  Diana  of  Spain.  The  Virgin  is 
represented  mostly  in  the  attitude  of  her  Conception,  Assumption,  or 
as  bearing  the  Saviour  as  either  infant  or  dead — in  either  case  to  exalt 
her.  To  her,  indeed,  most  of  the  cathedrals  of  Mariolatrous  Spain  are 
dedicated,  whilst  in  every  church  in  the  Peninsula  she  has  her  Lady 
Chapel. 

Few  Spaniards  at  any  time,  when  traversing  a  cathedral,  pass  the 
high  altar  without  bowing  and  crossing  themselves,  since  the  incarnate 
Host  is  placed  thereon  :  and  in  order  not  to  offend  the  weaker  brethren, 
every  considerate  Protestant  should  also  manifest  an  outward  respect 
for  this  the  Holy  of  Holies  of  the  natives,  and  of  his  Redeemer  also. 
Sometimes  kings,  queens,  and  princes  are  buried  near  the  high  altar, 
which  is  then  called  a  capiUa  real.  The  sarcophagus,  or  bed  on  which 
the  figures  representing  the  deceased  kneel  or  lie,  is  called  uma» 
Spaniards,  in  designating  the  right  and  left  of  the  altar,  generally  use 
the  terms  Iddo  del  JEvangelio,  lado  de  la  Epistola :  the  Oospel  side,  that 
is  the  right  of  the  celebrant  looking  from  the  altar  ;  the  Epistle  side, 
that  is  tiie  left.  These  are  the  spots  occupied  by  the  minister  while 
reading  those  portions  of  the  service.  The  altar  on  grand  Occasions  is 
decked  with  superbly  embroidered  coverlets  ;  a  complete  set  is  called  el 
temo.  The  piers  of  the  nave  are  then  hung  with  damask  or  velvet 
hangings,  colgaduras ;  the  back  of  the  altar  is  called  el  trasaltar,  and 
bere  in  some  cathedrals  is  el  trasparente,  a  huge  pile  of  elaborately 
worked  marble,  which  is  anything  but  transparent. 

Spanish  cathedrals  generally  have  a  parish  church  attached  to  them, 
la  parroquia,  and  many  have  a  royal  chapel,  urui  capUla  real,  quite 
distinct  from  the  high  altar,  in  which  separate  services  are  performed  by 
a  separate  establishment  of  clergy.    The  chapter-houses  should  alwa' 


60  'X.  CHURCH  PLATE,  Sect.  I. 

"be  visited.  The  sola  dd  cahildoj  sala  capitulary  have  frequently  aa 
ante-room,  antesala,  and  both  generally  contain  carvings  and  pictures. 
The  sagrario  is  a  term  used  for  the  additional  chapel  which  is  some- 
times appended  to  the  cathedral,  and  also  for  the  chamber,  d  relicario, 
where  the  relics  and  sacred  vessels  of  silver  and  gold  are  or  rather  were 
kept,  for  their  portable  and  ready  money  value  were  too  evident  to 
escape  the  greedy  eye  of  French  invaders  and  Spanish  appropriators ; 
in  reality,  to  plunder  church  plate  was  the  paramount  object  of 
almost  every  Buonapartist  Victor ^  to  *'  faire  bien  ses  affaires,"  and  enrich 
themselves  by  sacrilege,  pillage,  and  peculation.  One  of  the  earliest 
thoughts  of  the  Duke  was  how  "  to  make  the  French  generals  disgorge 
the  church  plate  which  they  had  stolen  "  (Disp.,  Aug.  23,  1808)  :  this 
he  settled  by  English  steel  purgatives ;  indeed,  the  hope  of  pillage  is 
what  endear^  war  to  the  revolutionary  upstarts  of  France,  and  to  which 
they  sacrificed  every  military  principle  and  consideration  for  the  lives  of 
their  men  (Disp.  Dec.  29, 1810).  The  crime  entailed  the  punishment ; 
the  impediments  of  plunder  formed  a  marked  feature  both  at  Baylen  and 
Yittoria,  the  first  and  last  blows  dealt  in  Spain  to  the  rapacious  Eagle. 
As  specimens  of  church  plate  worth  notice  are  the  altar  candlesticks, 
candderoSf  hlandones ;  the  calix,  or  sacramental  cup ;  the  porta  pax,  in 
which  relics  are  enclosed,  and  ofifered  to  devout  osculation ;  the  cruces^ 
crosses ;  hacvlos,  croziers ;  and  the  vergers*  staves,  cetros.  The  tra- 
veller should  always  inquire  if  there  be  a  ciustodia,  whether  of  silver, 
plata,  or  of  silver  gilt,  sobredorada.  They  are  called  custodians  because 
in  them,  on  grand  festivals,  the  consecrated  Host  is  kept.  The  cvstodia, 
containing  the  wafer,  thus  guarded,  is  deposited  on  Good  Friday  in  the 
sepulchre,  el  monumento.  This  temporary  monument  in  some  cathedrals 
— Seville,  for  instance — is  of  great  architectural  splendour. 

The  vestry  is  called  la  sacristia,  and  its  official  servant,  el  sacristan ; 
here  the  robes  and  iit^nsils  of  the  officiating  ministers  are  put  away. 
These  saloons  are  frequently  remarkable  for  the  profusion  of  mirrors 
which  are  hung,  like  pictures,  all  around  over  the  presses :  the  looking- 
glasses  are  slanted  forwards,  in  order  that  the  priest,  when  arrayed,  may 
have  a  full-length  view  of  himself  in  these  clerical  Psyches.  The  dresses 
and  copes  of  the  clergy  are  magnificently  embroidered,  for  the  Spaniards 
excel  in  this  art  of  working  silver  and  gold,  which  is  Oriental,  and  in- 
herited from  both  Phoenician  and  Moor. 

The  painted  glass  in  the  windows,  las  vidrierojs  de  las  ventanas,  is 
often  most  superb,  although  the  Spaniards  themselves  have  produced 
very  few  artists  in  this  chemical  branch,  and  mostly  employed  painters 
from  Flanders  and  Germany. 

The  chief  rejeros  or  makers  of  the  exquisite  purdoses,  railings,  are 
Francisco  de  Salamanca,  1533 ;  Christobal  Andino,  1540 ;  Francisco 
de  Villalpando,  1561 ;  Juan  Bautista  Celma,  1600.  Their  works  are  of 
the  highest  merit  and  interest,  and  quite  unrivalled  in  Europe ;  they 
flourished  in  the  gold  and  silver  ages  of  Spain.  The  most  remarkable 
plateros  or  workers  in  silver  are  the  D'Arphe  family,  1500 ;  Juan  Ruiz, 
el  Vandolino,  1533 ;  and  Alonso  Beoerril,  1534.  Unfortunately  the 
value  of  the  mere  material  has  tempted  the  spoiler,  and  consigned  to 
the  melting  pot  many  a  precious  remain  of  ancient  piety,  art,  and 
*nagnificcnce. 


Spain,        XI.  religious  festivals  tour. — xii.  kings.  61 

XI. — Religious  Festivals  Tour. 

Religion  has  long  been  mixed  up  most  intimately  in  every  public, 
private,  and  social  relation  of  Spain.  There  a  powerful  and  intelligent 
clergy  monopolized  soul  and  body,  dwarfing  both;  and  secured  the 
good  things  of  this  world  to  themselves,  by  promising  to  others  the 
blessings  of  the  next  one.  The  priesthood,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
exercise  of  thought^  furnished  food  for  the  eye— not  mind — and  from 
the  beginning  marshalled  into  their  service  even  popular  amusements, 
making  a  holy  day  and  a  holiday  synonymous.  Moralists  and  philo- 
sophers may  speculate  on  the  changes,  whether  for  better  or  worse, 
wrought  by  the  diminution  of  these  popular  amusements  and  occupa- 
tions. The  masses  at  least  were  not  driven  to  the  pothouse  or  politics ; 
now-a-days,  as  the  cloisters  come  down  in  every  town,  colosseums  arise 
for  the  bloody  brutalizing  bull  fight ;  yet  the  church  ceremonials,  on 
gi-and  days,  although  now  much  shorn  of  their  splendour,  should  always 
be  visited,  and  especially  when  celebrated  in  honour  of  the  tutelar  saint 
or  miracle  of  any  particular  district :  local  costumes  and  manners  will 
be  best  studied  at  the  Fiestas  y  JRomerias,  the  Festivals  and  Pilgrimages 
to  some  high  place  or  shrine,  and  at  the  Veladas,  the  Wakes  or  Vigils,  the 
German  Kirchweihe,  which  in  a  fine  climate  are  at  once  attractive  and 
picturesque.  Akin  to  these  scanty  relaxations  of  the  peasantry  are  the 
Ferias  or  fairs,  a  word  which  also  has  a  double  meaning  for  the 
Spaniards,  who,  imitating  the  Moors  at  Mecca,  have  always  been  per- 
mitted to- combine  a  little  traffic  with  devotion.  These  local  festivities 
are  however  sadly  fallen  off  from  their  pristine  getting  up  and  large 
attendance. 

The  principal  local  saints,  sites  of  pilgrimage,  and  leading  fairs  will 
be  mentioned  in  their  respective  places:  travellers  curious  in  these 
festivals  should  endeavour  to  be  at  Valencia  April  5,  at  Madrid  April  15, 
jRonda  May  20,  and  Santiago  July  25,  and  should  always  remember  to 
be  in  some  great  city  during  the  Holy  Week  or  Semana  Santa  (Seville 
is  the  best),  and  during  Corpus  Christi,  a  moveable  feast  which  takes 
place  the  first  Thursday  after  Trinity  Sunday,  and  is  celebrated  every 
where  in  Spain  with  great  pomp,  especially  at  Seville,  Granada,  Va- 
lencia, Barcelona,  and  Toledo.  All  the  infinite  holy  days  that  are  kept 
in  honour  of  the  Virgin  deserve  notice,  as  do  the  more  gloomy  services 
connected  with  the  dead  on  the  days  of  All  Saints  and  All  Souls  in  the 
beginning  of  November.  The  festivities  of  Christmas  and  Carnival  time 
are  more  joyous,  and  very  national  and  peculiar. 

XII. — Kings  op  Spain.  ' 

In  the  subjoined  chronology  of  the  order  of  succession  of  the  Kings 
of  Spain,  from  the  Goths,  the  years  of  their  deaths  are  given  Trom  the 
official  and  recognised  lists. 

A.D.  1 

£arico     •  . 

Alarico    •  • 

Gesalico  .  •     < 

Amalarico  • 

Theadio  •  • 

Theadesilo  • 


Gothtc  Atngs, 

A.D. 

Ataulfo    .     .     .. 

417 

Sigerico   •     .     • 

417 

Walia       .     .     . 

420 

Theodoredo  .     « 

451 

Tarismundo  •     . 

454 

Tbeodorico    •     . 

4G7 

A.D. 

A.I>. 

483 

Agila  •     • 

554 

506 

Atauagildo 

.567 

510 

Leuva  I.  • 

572 

531 

Leovigildo 

586 

548 

JElecaredo  I. 

601 

549 

Leuva  \l. 

60' 

62 


XIII.   CONTEMPORARY  SOVEREIGNS. 


Sect.  L 


Kings  of  Spain — continued. 


A.D. 

A.D. 

A.D.^ 

Witerico: .     . 

600 

Garcia*    « 

.     913 

Fernando  IV.  el 

Gundemaro  • 

612 

Ordono  II.     • 

•     923 

Emplazado 

1312 

Sisebuto  .     • 

621 

Fruela  II.      • 

.     924 

Alonso  XI.    •     • 

1350- 

Becaredo  II. 

621 

Alonso     IV. 

el 

Pedro  I.  el  Cruel 

1369 

Saintila    •     • 

631 

Monge  .     • 

•     930 

Henrique  II.  • 

137» 

Sisenanto     ^ . 

635 

Ramiro  II.     • 

«     960 

Juan  I.    •     •     . 

1390- 

Chintila  .     • 

638 

Ordono  III.  • 

.     966 

Henrique  III.      • 

1407 

Tulga       .     . 

640 

Sancho  I. 

.     967 

Juan  II.  •     .     • 

1454 

Chindasuindo 

650 

Ramiro  III.  . 

.     982 

Henrique  IV.   el 

Keces^into     • 

672 

Bermudo  II. 

•     999 

Impotente .     . 

1474 

Wamba    .     • 

687 

Alonso  V. 

.   1028 

Dona  Isabel,  laCa- 

1 

Ervigio    •     • 

687 

Bermudo  III. 

.   1037 

tolica    .     •     • 

1504 

Egica       •     • 
Witiza     .     . 

701 

Dona  Sancha. 

•   1067 

Fernando  V.       • 

1516 

711 

Dona  Juana  .     • 

1555. 

Don  Rodrigo 

714 

Kings  of  Castile  and 

Felipe  I.  •     .     . 

1560 

Leon, 

Carlos  v.,  I.  de 

Kings  of  Leon, 

Fernando  I.  . 

.   1067 

Espana       •     • 

155a 

Pelayo     .     . 

• 

737 

Sancho  II.     • 

'.  1073 

Felipe  II.      .     . 

159a 

Favila      .     . 

• 

739 

Alonso  VI.    • 

.   1108 

Felipe  III.     .     . 

1621 

Alonso  I.  el  Cato- 

Dona  Uraca  • 

.   1126 

Felipe  IV.     •     . 

166& 

lico       .     . 

757 

Alonso  VII.  Km- 

Carlos  II.      •     • 

1700 

Fruela  I. 

768 

perador 

.   1157 

Felipe    V.    abdi- 

Aarelio   .     • 

774 

Sancho  III.    . 

,   1158 

cated    .     •     . 

1724 

Silo     .     •      . 

783 

Alonso  VIII. 

•   1214 

Luis  I.     •     .     . 

1724 

Mauregato     • 

788 

Henrique  I.  • 

.   1217 

Felipe  V.       .     . 

1746 

Bermndo  I.  el  Di- 

Fernando  II. 

•  1188 

Fernando  VI.     . 

175^ 

acono   .     • 

• 

796 

Alonso  IX.     • 

.   1230 

Carlos  III.     .     • 

178a 

Alonso  II.  el  Casto 

843 

Dona  Berenguela    1244 

Carlos  IV.,  abdi- 

Ramiro I.      • 

• 

850 

San  Fernando  III.  1262 

cated    .     •     . 

180a 

Ordono  I. 

• 

862 

Alonso  X.  elSabio  1284 

Fernando  VII.    . 

1833 

Alonso    III. 

el 

Sancho     IV. 

el 

Isabel  II.       .     . 

Magno .     • 

• 

910 

Bravo  •     • 

.   1295 

Xni. — Table  of  Contempobart  Sovereigns. 


The  periods  have  been  selected  during  which  leading  events  in  Spanish 

history  have  occurred. 

England.  France. 

Egbert.     •  Charlemagne 

Alfred .     •  Louis  II.       . 

Ethelred  II.  Hugh  Capet . 


▲.D.  Spain. 

800  Alonso  II.  el  Casto  • 
877  Alonso  III.  el  Magno 
996  Ramiro  III.    •     •     • 

1075  Sancho  II.       .     •     . 


1156  Alonso  VII.    .     . 

1245  San  Fernando       < 
1345  Alonso  XI.      • 
1360  Pedro  el  Cruel     . 
1485  Isabel  la  Catolica 


Henry  II. .     Louis  VII.    • 

Henry  III.  St.  Louis  • 
Edward  in.  Philip  VL  . 
Edward  III.  John  II.  .  • 
Henry  VII.    Charles  VIIL 


1615  Fernando  de  Aragon,  Henry  VIII.  Francis  I. 

1560  Carlos  V Edward  VI.    Henry  II. 

1560  Felipe  II.  .     .     •     •  Elizabeth  .    Charles  IX. 

".44  Felipe  IV.      ...  Charles  I.      Louis  XIV. 


Rome. 
Leo  III. 
John  VII. 
Gregory  V. 

Gregory  VII. 

r Adrian  IV., 
(Breakspeare. 
Innocent  IV. 
Benedict  VI. 
Innocent  VI. 
Innocent  VII I» 
Leo  X. 
Paul  III. 
Pius  IV. 
Innocent  X. 


Spain.  xiy.  royal  arms.  6S 

A.D.                   Spain.  England.                 France.                    Rome. 

1705  Felipe  V.  ....  Anne    •     .  Lonis  XIY.  .  Clement  XL 

1760  Carlos  III.      .     .     .  George  III.  Louis  XV.    .  Clement  XIIL 

1808  Fernando  VII.     .     .  George  III.  Buonaparte  .  Pius  VII. 

1840  Isabel  II Victoria     .    Louis-Philippe  {^l^g'^x^' 

XrV. — The  Royal  Arms  op  Spain. 

These,  which  appear  on  most  of  all  religious  and  public  buildings,  offer 
fixed  and  certain  aids  in  marking  dates.  They  have  from  time  to  time 
undergone  many  changes,  and  those  changes  denote  epochs.  The 
**  canting"  Castle  was  first  assumed  for  Castile,  and  the  Lion  for  Lewi ; — 
the  earliest  shields  were  parted  per  cross ;  gules,  a  castle,  or ;  argent,  a  lion 
rampant  gules,  or  more  properly  purpure.  In  1332  Alonso  XL  insti- 
tuted the  order  of  La  Vcmda,  the  "  Band,"  or  scarf,  the  origin  of  "  blue 
and  red  ribbons ;"  the  charge  was  a  bend  dexter  gules  issuing  from  two 
dragons'  heads  vert.  This,  the  charge  of  the  old  banner  of  Castile,  was 
discontinued  in  1369  by  Henry  II.,  who  hated  an  order  of  which  his 
brother  had  deprived  him.  The  colours  of  the  flag  of  Spain  are  red  and 
yellow,  because  Castile  bears  gules  and  or. 

The  union  of  Arragon  and  Castile  in  1479,  under  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  caused  changes  in  the  royal  shield,  then  divided  by  coupe 
and  party ;  the  first  and  fourth  areas  were  given  to  Castile  and  Leon 
quartered,  the  second  and  third  to  Arragon — Or,  four  bars,  gules — ^and 
Sicily  impaled ;  Navarre  and  Jerusalem  were  added  subsequently  :  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella,  who  were  much  devoted  to  St.  John  the  Evangelist, 
adopted  his  eagle,  sable  with  one  head,  as  the  supporter  of  their  common 
shield :  they  each  assumed  a  separate  device :  Isabella  took  a  bundle  of 
arrows,  FlecTias,  and  the  letter  F,  the  initial  of  her  husband's  name  and 
of  this  symbol  of  union.  The  arbitrary  Ferdinand  took  a  Yoke,  Yugo, 
and  the  letter  F,  the  initial  alike  of  his  wife's  name  and  of  the  despotic 
machine  which  he  fixed  on  the  neck  of  Moor  and  Spaniard :  he  added 
the  motto  Tato  mota,  Tanto  monta.  Tantamount,  to  mark  his  assumed 
equality  with  his  Castilian  queen,  which  the  Castilians  never  admitted. 

When  Granada  was  captured  in  1492,  a  pomegranate  stalked  and 
leaved  ^oper,  with  the  shell  open-grained  gvles,  was  added  to  the  point 
of  the  shield  in  base :  wherever  this  is  wanting,  the  traveller  may  be 
certain  that  the  building  is  prior  to  1492.  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  are 
generally  called  los  Reyes  Catdicos,  the  Catholic  Sovereigns :  they  were 
very  great  builders,  and  lived  at  the  period  of  the  most  florid  Gothic 
and  armorial  decorations :  they  were  fond  of  introducing  figures  of 
heralds  in  tabards. 

The  age  of  their  grandson  Charles  V.  was  again  that  of  change :  he 
brought. in  all  the  pomp  of  Teutonic  emblazoning :  the  arms  of  the 
Boman  Empire,  Austria,  Blirgundy,  Brabant,  and  Flanders,  were  now 
added,  and  the  apostolic  one-headed  eagle  gave  way  to  the  double-headed 
eagle  of  the  Empire :  the  shield  was  enclosed  with  the  order  of  the 
Golden  Fleece ;  the  ragged  staff  of  Burgundy,  and  the  pillars  of  Her- 
cules, with  the  motto  Plus  ultra,  plus  mdtre,  were  added.  Philip  II • 
discontinued  the  Imperial  Eagle,  but  added  in  two  escutcheons  of  pre- 
tence the  arms  of  Portugal,  Artois,  and  Charolois.  These  were  omitted 
by  his  grandfion  Philip  IV.  when  Spain  b^an  to  fall  to  pieces  and  ^ 


64  XV.   THE  ERA. — XVI.  SPANISH  LANGUAGE.  Sect.  I. 

kingdoms  to  drop  off;  on  the  accession  of  Philip  V.  the  three  Bourbon 
fleur  de  lys  were  added  in  an  escutcheon  of  pretence. 

The  arms  of  every  important  town  in  ISpain  will  be  found  in  the 
*  Rasgo  Heroico*  of  Ant.  Moya,  Madrid,  1766.  Those  of  private  families 
are  endless.  Few  countries  can  vie  with  Spain  in  heraldic  pride  and 
pedigree  literature,  on  which  consult  *  BiUiotheca  Hispanica  Eistorico 
OenecUogico  Heraldicay'  Q.  E.  de  Frankenau,  4to,,  Leipsig,  1724:  it 
enumerates  no  less  than  1490  works ;  the  real  author  was  Juan  Lucas 
Cortes,  a  learned  Spaniard,  whose  MS.  treatises  on  heraldry  and  juris- 
prudence fell  into  the  hands  of  this  Frankenau,  a  Dane  and  first-rate 
plagiarist,  by  whom  they  were  appropriated  in  the  most  bare-faced 
manner.  On  the  copious  subject  of  Spanish  Heraldry  and  G  enealogy,  our 
paper  in  the  *  Quart.  Review,'  No.  cxxiii.  may  be  consulted.  The  chief 
towns  rejoice  in  magnificent  epithets,  "  Noble,  Loyal,  Faithful,"  &c. 
"  Heroic"  is  so  common,  that  the  French  soldiers,  under  Angoul^me, 
could  not  help  laughing  when  the  poltroon  municipalities  came  out  to 
surrender  their  keys  instanter.  These  craven  corporations  often  enjoy 
personal  rank,  "  excellencies,"  and  so  forth. 

XV.— The  Era. 

The  antiquarian  will  frequently  meet  with  the  date  Era  in  old  books 
or  on  old  inscriptfons.  This  mode  of  reckoning  prevailed  in  the  Roman 
dominions,  and  arose  from  the  date  of  the  particular  payment  of  taxes, 
ces  cera,  "when  all  the  world  was  taxed ;"  therefore  the  Moors  translated 
this  date  by  Bafar,  "copper,"  whence  the  Spanish  word  azofar.  It 
commenced  in  the  fourth  year  of  Augustus  Caesar,  and  according  to 
some,  on  March  25th,  according  to  others  December  26th.  Volumes 
have  been  written  on  this  disputed  point :  consult  *  Ohr(ts  Chronologicas* 
Marques  de  Mondejar,  folio,  Valencia,  1744,  and  the  second  volume  of 
the  ^Espaiia  SagradaJ'  Suffice  it  now  to  say,  that  to  make  the  Era 
correspond  with  the  Anno  Domini,  thirty-eight  years  must  be  added ; 
thus  A,D.  1200  is  equivalent  to  the  Era  1238.  The  use  of  the  Era 
prevailed  in  Spain  down  to  the  twelfth  century,  when  the  modem  system 
of  reckoning  from  the  date  of  the  Saviour  was  introduced,  not,  however, 
to  the  exclusion  of  the  Era,  for  both  were  for  a  long  time  frequently  used 
in  juxtaposition :  the  Era  was  finally  ordered  to  be  discontinued  in  1383, 
by  the  Cortes  of  Segovia. 

The  Moorish  Eegira  commences  from  Friday,  July  16,  a.d.  622, 
Era  660. 

The  New  Style  was  introduced  by  Gregory  XIIL  into  Spain  in  1582, 
at  the  same  time  that  it  was  at  Rome ;  October  5th  of  the  Old  Style  was 
then  called  October  15th.  This  change  must  always  be  remembered  in 
ascertaining  the  exact  date  of  previous  events,  and  especially  in  com- 
paring Spanish  and  English  dates,  since  the  New  Style  was  only  intro- 
duced into  England  in  1751. 

XVI. — Spanish  Language  and  Phrases. 

Some  acquaintance  with  this  noble  idiom  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
get  on  tolerably  in  the  Peninsula,  where,  as  with  Orientals,  no  other  is 
«»)oken  or  understood,  the  large  cities  and  seaports  excepted.     The 

visiting,  unvisited  people  of  Spain  have  never  felt  the  necessity  of 


Spain.  SPANISH  MAGNILOQUENCE.  65 

using  any  other  language  but  their  own,  and  have  left  to  a  fraction  of  their 
so-called  hettera  the  disgrace  of  exchanging  a  nasal  nondescript,  which 
they  call  and  fancy  French,  for  their  sonorous  Castilian,  in  which,  as 
Charles  V.  said,  "  God  ought  alone  to  be  addressed  in  prayer ;"  and  in 
truth  of  all  modem  languages  it  is  the  most  fitting  and  decorous  medium 
for  solenm,  lofty  devotion,  for  grave  disquisitions,  for  elevated,  moral, 
and  theological  subjects ;  an  exponent  of  national  character,  it  partakes 
of  the  virtues  and  vices  of  the  Spaniard — it  is  noble,  manly,  grandilo- 
quent, sententious,  and  imposing.  The  commonest  village  alcalde  pens 
his  placards  in  the  Oambyses  state-paper  style,  more  naturally  than  Pitt 
dictated  king's  speeches,  extemporaneously.  The  pompous,  fine-sounding 
expressions  and  professions,  convey  to  plain  English  understandings 
promises  which  are  seldom  realized  by  Spaniards.  The  words  are  so 
fine  in  themselves  that  they  appear  to  he  the  result  of  thought  and 
talent.  The  ear  is  bewildered  and  the  judgment  carried  away  by  the 
mistakes  we  make  in  translating  all  these  fine  phrases — -palabras,  pala- 
ver, which  are  but  Orientalisms,  and  mean,  and  are  meant  to  mean, 
nothing — into  our  homely,  business-like,  honest  idiom.  We  take 
Spanish  syllabubs  for  English  plum-pudding,  and  deceive  ourselves 
only;  for  no  official  Spaniard  ever  credits  another  to  the  letter:  our 
literalness  induces  us  to  set  them  down  as  greater  boasters,  braggarts, 
and  more  beggarly  in  performance  than  they  really  are.  This  wordy 
exaggeration  is  peculiar  to  southern  imaginative  people,  who  delight  in 
the  ornate  and  gorgeous ;  our  readers  must  therefore  be  on  their  guard 
not  to  take  all  this  conventional  hyperbole  of  Spanish  grandiloquence  au 
pied  de  la  lettre,  for  much  less  is  meant  than  meets  the  ear.  Such  words 
must  be  much  lowered  down,  to  reach  the  standard  of  truth,  and  like 
their  paper,  when  not  protested,  which  is  by  far  the  safest  way,  at  least 
discounted ;  a  deduction  of  25  per  cent,  will  seldom  be  found  enough, 
if  the  bond  fide  value  is  wished  to  be  ascertained.  Again  our  early 
education  at  Public  Schools  and  Universities  leads  us  to  associate  a 
Koman  and  Classical  feeling  with  this  superb  idiom,  in  which  the  Latin 
element  is  less  changed  than  in  any  other  modem  language ;  with  the 
phraseology  of  Caesar  and  Cicero  we  cannot  help  connecting  much  of 
their  greatness.  The  Spanish  idiom,  at  least,  is  the  manly  son  and 
heir  of  the  Latin,  as  the  Italian  is  the  fair  and  elegant  daughter. 

The  repugnance  to  all  commercial  and  mechanical  pursuits  which  has 
been  inherited  from  the  Goths,  and  the  fetters  by  which  national  intel- 
lect and  literature  have  been  so  long  confined,  have  rendered  the  language 
of  Castile  comparatively  unfit  for  most  of  the  practical  purposes  for  which 
there  is  such  a  growing  demand  in  this  business-like,  utilitarian  age.  It 
has  yet  to  be  hammered  on  the  anvil  of  mere  popular  concems,  and  is  from 
its  very  structure  as  unfitted  for  rapid  condensed  conversation,  as  are 
those  Spanish  talkei's  and  twaddlers  who  use  it  in  writing  or  speaking ; 
however,  as  no  other  language  is  in  vogue,  the  traveller  must  either  hold 
his  tongue  or  adopt  theirs.  Nor  will  those  who  imderstand  Latin  and 
French  find  much  difficulty  in  mastering  Spanish ;  while  a  knowledge 
of  Italian,  so  far  from  being  an  assistance,  will  prove  a  constant  stumb- 
ling-block. Both  languages,  as  we  have  said,  are  children  of  the  Latin, 
but  the  one  is  the  son  and  the  other  the  daughter  ;  the  terminations  of 
the  former  end  in  masculine  consonants,  of  the  latter  in  feminine  vowelp 


66  XVI.  SPANISH  LANGUAGE  AND  PRONUNCIATION.         Sect.  I^ 

The  pronunciation  of  Spanish  is  very  easy ;  every  word  is  spoken  as  it 
is  written,  and  with  the  lips  and  month,  not  the  nose ;  the  consonants 
g,  j\  and  x,  before  certain  vowels,  have  a  marked  Arabic  and  German 
guttaral  power,  which  confers  a  force,  manliness,  and  a  back  bone  that 
is  far  from  disagreeable.  In  fact,  this  manliness,  combined  with  gravity 
and  oriental  majesty,  is  what  principally  distinguishes  the  Spanish  from 
the  Italian  language.  Again,  every  word  is  written  and  spelt  as  it  is 
pronounced — ^a  comfort  to  a  student  that  is  denied  in  our  so-called  ortho- 
graphy, in  which  letters  seem  to  have  been  given  to  conceal  the  sounds 
of  words.  The  g,  j,  and  x  before  vowels  is  generally  written  now  with/, 
although  they  may  be  used  optionally.  Thus  the  correct  thing  is  to 
spell  XimeneZf  GhimeneZy  as  Jimenez.  Again,  the  b  and  v  have  long 
been  cognate  and  convertible ;  thus  Aqui  se  bende  huen  bino,  occurs  on 
inn  sign-posts,  as  often  as  Aqui  se  vende  buen  vino. 

The  original  language  of  the  Iberians  was  the  Basque,  which  is  now 
confined  to  its  hilly  comer.  It  was  superseded  by  the  Romance,  or 
corrupt  idiom  formed  from  the  fusion  of  the  Roman  and  Gothic  lan- 
guages ;  this  hybrid  underwent  a  further  change  from  its  admixture 
with  the  Arabic  at  the  Moorish  invasion,  when  two  new  dialects  were 
formed — the  Aljamia  or  Spanish,  as  spoken  by  the  Moors,  and  the 
Algardbia  or  Arabic,  as  spoken  by  the  Spaniards.  This  latter  was  so 
bad,  that  the  term,  in  its  secondary  sense,  is  applied  to  any  gibberish — 
garabia — a  word  which,  strictly  speaking,  means  hgat-ai-drabra,  the 
Arabic  language.  In  Andalucia,  as  might  be  expected,  this  fusion  was 
the  greatest,  and  the  province,  in  the  names  of  her  rivers,  towns,  and 
mountains,  still  retains  the  language  of  her  former  possessors,  although 
the  Spaniards  have  even  forgotten  their  meaning :  thus  they  pleonasti- 
cally  call  the  Wadi  7  kiber,  the  great  river,  el  rio  grande  del  Guadal- 
quivir; los  bancs  de  Alharthay  the  baths  of  the  bath;  el  puente  de 
Alcantara,  the  bridge  of  the  bridge. 

Although  el  hablar  CasteUano  means  emphatically,  speaking  Spanish, 
each  province  has  its  dialect.  These  may  be  conveniently  classed  under 
four  great  branches : — the  primitive  Basque ;  the  Valeftcian  and  Cata- 
Ionian,  which  comes  near  the  Proven9al,  as  the  Arragonese  does  to  the 
langue  d'Oc,  or  Lemosin ;  the  Asturian  and  Gallician ;  and  the  Castilian,^ 
which  thus  may  be  compared  to  a  heap  of  com,  composed  of  many 
different  classes  of  grain.  The  purest  CastUian  is  written  and  spoken  at 
Madrid  and  at  Toledo,  the  most  corrupt  in  the  cities  of  Andalucia.  One 
marked  difference  in  pronunciation  consists  in  the  sound  of  the  th ;  the 
Castilian  marks  it  clearly — Zaragoza,  Tharagotha ;  Andaluz,  AndcUuth ; 
placer,  plather ;  usted,  usteth:  while  the  Andalucian,  whose  ceceo  is 
much  laughed  at,  will  say  Saragosa,  placer,  or  plaser,  Andaluce,  uste. 
The  traveller  should  never  pronounce  the  h  when  at  the  beginning  of  a 
word;  hombre,  hacer,  must  be  Ombre,  cUher.  The  Castilian  speaks 
with  a  grave,  distinct  pronunciation,  ore  rotundo,  enunciating  every 
letter  and  syllable.  The  Andalucian  clips  the  Queen's  Spanish,  and 
seldom  sounds  the  d  between  two  vowels. 

The  Castilians  are  sparing  of  words.  If  speech  be  silver,  silence,  say 
they,  is  often  gold ;  and,  throughout  Spain,  much  intercourse  is  carried 
on  by  signs,  especially  among  the  lower  classes ;  thus,  energetic  defiance 

contempt  (the  national  oath — the  oara/o— expressed  by  telegraph)  is 


Spain,  XYI.  SPANISH  LANGUAQE  AND  DICTIONARIES.  67 

irresistibly  conveyed  by  closing  the  fist  of  the  right  hand,  elevating  it, 
and  catching  the  elbow  in  the  palm  of  the  left  hand,  and  thus  raising 
the  right  arm  at  a  right  angle.  People  call  each  other  by  a  polite 
hissing,  or  rather  by  the  labial  sound  Ps,  ps.  The  telegraph  action  of 
this  sibilant — Eoia !  ven  aca,  querido  I — ^is  done  by  reversing  our  form 
of  beckoning ;  the  open  hand  is  raised,  and  the  palm  is.  turned  toward 
the  person  summoned  or  selected,  and  the  four  fingers  drawn  rapidly 
up  and  down  into  the  palm.  Admiration — sohremliente,  que  huena 
mozal — ^is  expressed  by  collecting  the  five. fingers*  tips  to  a  pointy 
bringing  ihem  to  the  lip,  kissing  them,  and  then  expanding  the  hand 
like  a  bursting  shell.  Dissent — what  a  lie — mentiraj  or  have  nothing 
to  do  with  it,  her,  or  him,  no  te  metas  en  eso — is  quietly  hinted  by 
raising  the  single  fore-finger  to  the  nose,  and  wagging  it  rapidly  and 
horizontally  backwards  and  forwards.  Astonishment,  incredulous  sur- 
prise, or  jocular  resignation  under  unavoidable,  irremediable  afflictions 
— is  dumbshowed  by  crossing  oneself,  as  is  done  on  entering  a  church  in 
Spain.  The  ancient  contemptuous"^  of  Spain" — a  fig  for  you — is 
digitally  represented  by  inserting  the  head  of  the  thumb  between  the 
fore  and  middle  fingers,  and  raising  the  back  of  the  hand  towards  the 
person  thus  complimented.  The  fair  sex  carry  on  dumb-show,  but 
most  eloquent  "  conversations  "  with  the  fan,  dbanico ;  and  a  signal-book 
might  be  written  on  the  polyglot  powers  of  this  electric  telegraph.. 
Their  management  of  it,  or  manejo^  is  unique  and  inimitable. 

In  Andalucia,  the  head-quarters  of  the  fancy,  la  Aficion^  a  sort  of 
slang  is  very  current  which  is  prevalent  among  Tnajos,  bull-fighters,  and 
all  who  aspire  to  be  sporting  characters ;  it  is  called  Oermania,  geri- 
goma,  jerga  (whence,  perhaps,  our  Jargon).  It  has  often  been  con- 
founded, but  most  erroneously,  with  Rommany,  or  the  language  of 
Spanish  gipsies,  Gitanos,  which  is  a  Hindu  dialect,  whereas  Germania 
is  simply  a  language  of  metaphor,  or  a  giving  a  new  conventional 
meaning  to  an  dd  word.  Thus  cdegio,  a  college,  in  slang  means  a 
prison,  becausie  there  young  culprits  become  masters  of  sinful  arts. 
Mr.  Borrow,  in  his  graphic  *  Zincali,'  and  A.  F.  Pott,  in  his  learned 
compilation  *  Die  ZigeuneVy'  2  vols.,  Halle,  1845,  have  exhausted  the- 
subject  of  gipsy  philology. 

The  best  method  of  acquiring  the  Spanish  language  is  to  establish 
oneself  in  a  good  casa  de  pupUos,  to  avoid  English  society  and  conversa- 
tion, to  read  Don  Quixote  through  and  aloud  before  a  master  of  a 
morning,  and  to  be  schooled  by  female  tongues  of  an  evening.  The 
ladies  of  Spain  prove  better  mistresses,  and  their  lessons  are  more 
attended  to  by  their  pupils,  than  the  inflections  and  irregular  verbs  of  a 
snuffy  tobaccose  pedagogue,  a  bore,  and  a  button-holder,  majadero  y  bota- 
rate.  Mr.  Lee,  bookseller,  440,  West  Strand,  can  generally  recommend 
a  good  Spanish  language  teacher,  e.g.  DeH  Mar,  whose  grammar  is  very 
good.  The  old  dictionary,  *  Tesoro  de  la  Lengua  Ca^teUana,'  of  Don 
Sebastian  Covarrubias,  Madrid,  1611  and  1674,  abounds  with  quaint 
and  Quixotic  information.  The  Spanish  Diccionario  Naciondl,  with 
Supplement,  is  trustworthy,  and  the  French  and  Spanish  Dictionary  of 
Nufiez  de  Taboada  is  one  of  the  best ;  those  who  wish  to  trace  the  Arabic^ 
influence  on  the  Spanish  language  will  find  in  the  Arte  de  la'Lengua 
Arahica,  and  the  Vocahulario  Arabico,  by  Pedro    de  AlcaU,  4to 


68 


XVI.   SPANISH  PHRASES. 


Sect.  T. 


Granada,  1504  (generally  bound  up  together),  the  exact  idiom  spoken 
by  the  Moors  of  Granada. 

As  a  "  wrinkle  "  to  students  it  will  be  found  useful  to  add  to  their 
Taboada  dictionary  sundry  blank  sheets,  and  set  down  on  them  the 
colloquial,  conversational  phrases  which  recur  the  most  frequently,  for 
spoken  language  differs  everywhere  most  essentially  from  written ;  take, 
for  example,  a  couple  of  Ifeaves  from  our  book,  in  which  the  common 
every -day  and  lighter  subjects  have  been  purposely  selected. 


Ojala!  I  wish  I  could,  would  to 
Allah  it  were  so ! 

Si  Dios  quiere,  if  God  pleases.  The 
Inch  allah !  of  the  Moors. 

Valgcune  Dvjs,  God  bless  me. 

Ave  Maria  purisinuiy  a  form  of  ad- 
miration and  salutation. 

Sabe  Dio8,  quien  sabe  ?  God  knows, 
who  can  teU  ? 

JVb  se  sabe,  nobody  knows,  that  de- 
pends. 

Muy  bien,  very  weU. 

Segun  y  conformed  just  as  it  may  turn 
out. 

CorrterUe,  all's  right,  certainly. 

Es  regular  que  si,  I  should  suppose 
so. 

No  hay  inconveniente,  it  is  quite  con- 
venient. 

JSstd  do8  leguas  mas  alia,  it  is  two 
leagues  ftirtber  on ;  mas  aca, 
nearer. 

£n  el  dia  de  hoy,  now-a-days. 

Lo  hdgo  por  amor  de  Vmd,,*  I  do  it 
for  your  sake. 

Ss  casa  de  mucho  aseo,  it  is  a  very 
comfortable  house. 

Me  armd  una  irampa,  he  laid  a  trap 
for  me. 

Con  mucho  descoco  jc  descaro,  with  a 
regular  brazen  face. 

Vaua  Vmd.,  mucho  muy  en  hora  mala, 
ill  luck  betide  you  (an  oath). 

Ya  se  ve,  mas  claro,  certainly,  quite 
clear. 

Cabal,  no  cahe  duda,  exactly,  there 
can  be  no  doubt. 

JEs  verdad,  tiene  Vmd,  razon,  it  is 
true,  you  are  right. 

Por  supuesto,  of  course. 

Me  lo  presumo,  me  lo  Jiguro,  I  pre- 
sume so,  I  conclude  so. 

Sin  embargo,  d  pesar  de  eso,  never- 
theless, in  spite  of. 

Que  huena  moza  I  what  a  pretty  girl ! 


Muy  guapa,  muy  guapita,  very  nice, 
uncommonly  nice. 

Me  lo  dijd  un  taL  Don  Fulano,  so 
and  so  told  me,  Mr.  What-d'ye- 
call-him.     Fulan  is  pure  Arabic. 

Perdone,  Vmd,,  dispense  Vmd„  ex- 
cuse me,  forgive  me. 

Disimule  Vmd,,  pardon  me. 

Eso  no  puede  ser  de  ningun  mode,  that 
cannot  be  on  any  account. 

Eso  no  era  en  mi  ano,  it  was  not  in 
my  year,  it  did  not  happen  in  my 
time. 

Y  no  era  mi  dano,  I  have  no  right  to 
complain. 

Pues,  senores,  and  so,  sirs,  as  I  was 
saying. 

Con  que  luego,  and  so  then. 

De  botones  adentro,  inside  outside. 

Me  viene  como  anUlo  al  dedo,  it  suits 
me  like  a  ring  does  a  finder. 

Que  se  aguante  hasta  el  jueues,  let 
him  wait  (till  Thursday). 

Sabe  muy  lien  guisar,  he  is  a  capital 
cook. 

Muy  hinchada,  que  tono  se  da  !  Yeij 
proud,  what  airs  she  gives  herself! 

No  me  da  la  gana,  I  don't  choose,  I 
am  not  in  the  humour. 

Ya  estd  hecha  la  diligencia,  the  com- 
mission or  thing  is  already  done. 

Que  disparate  !  what  nonsense ! 

Hombre  de  bien,  a  good,  an  honest 
fellow. 

Tunante  y  embustero,  a  good-for- 
nothing  liar. 

Mueran  los  gavachos,  death  to  the 
miscreants  (the  national  wish  as 
regards  the  French). 

Picaro,  picara,  rogue  (may  be  used 
playfully). 

JSuena  alhaja,  buena  prenda  es  Vmd,, 
you  are  a  pretty  jewel. 

Calavera  atolondrado,  empty  noddle 

-    (skull). 


*  Vmd,  fa  explained  in  page  124. 


Spain, 


XVI.   SPANISH  PHRASES. 


69 


Mity  ordinario,  yerj  bad  style. 
JVb  vcUe  nada,  it  is  worth  nothing. 
Me  quiere  mucho,  he  is  very  fond  of 

me. 
£e  mande  a  un  recado,  I  sent  him  on 

a  message. 
JEs  hombre  tan  formal  como  noaotrosy 

he  is  as  well-bred  as  we  are. 
Con  quien  ne  puede  trutavi  you  can 

Hve,  do  bnsmess  with  him. 
Con  toda  franqueza  JEspanolaf  with 

all  Spanish  fi*ankness. 
JVb  tiene  educacion,  he  is  very  ill- 
bred. 
iVb  conoce  el  mundo,  has  no  know- 
ledge of  the  world. 
Tiene  cara  de  hereje,  he  is  very  ngly. 
'Tiene  pecho  como  tabla  de  animas, 

she  is  very  scraggy. 
Ha  qnedado  para  vestir  imageneSf  she 

is  an  old  maid; 
JEs  una  erudita  a  la  violetaj  una  mart" 

sabidilla,  she  is  a  bine. 
Jj08  JEspanoles  son  muy  valienteSf  the 

Spaniards  are  very  valiant. 
Algunos  con  las  dientes,  some  with 

their  teeth. 
Mueren  como  chinches,  they  die  in 

numbers. 
Una  esquela,  una  esquelita,  a  note,  a 

billet. 
A  medio  peh,  half-seas-over. 
Vamos  d  las  tieudas,  let  us  go  shop- 
ping. 
Vamos,  vamonos  d  la  calUy  let  tis  go 

out  (literally,  into  the  street). 
Que  leutima  I  what  a  pity  I 
Me  da  lastima,  I  am  very  sorry. 
Me  da  tanto  coraje,  it  puts  me  in  such 

a  rage. 
JVb  me  quemes  la  sangre,  don't  vex 

me  (burn  my  blood). 
Me  hace  volver  loco,  he  drives  me  mad. 
Vengo  sqfocado,  I  am  suffocated  with 

rage. 
Queaarse/resco,  Llevar  chasco,  to  be 

done, 
Ah  que  me  hurku,  ah,  you  are  joking 

at  me. 
JLo  dice  en  hroma,  he  says  it  in  jest.^ 
Corazon  de  cuartel,  a  heart  as  roomy 

as  a  barrack. 
Ab  como  pan  de  valde,  I  don't  eat 

my  bread  gratis. 
No  compro  nada  de  gangas,  I  buy 

nothing  a  bargain. 


Le  pone  el  pie  en  el  pescueto,  she 

hen-pecks  him. 
Tengo  mi  angel  de  guarda,  I  have  mj 

guardian  angel. 
Tengo  hula  para  todo,  I  have  a  ball 

for  everything  (I  am  a  privileged 

person). 
T^ene  el  diahlo  en  el  cuerpo,  he  has 

the  devil  in  him. 
Que  mas  ledad  Vmd.  f  what  is  that 

to  you  ? 
JVb  le  hace,  it  does  not  signify. 
Nopor  los  lindos  ijos  de  Vmd.,  not  for 

the  sake  of  your  good  looks  (eyes). 
Bezelo  que  to  tomen  d  mal,  I   am 

afraid  th^  may  take  it  amiss. 
Una  cosa  de  tres  semanas,  about  three 

weeks. 
Mande  Fmd,  con  todafranqueza,  com- 
mand me  quite  freely. 
Echaremos  un  paseito,  let  us  take  a 

walk. 
Tenga  Vmd.  cuidado,  take  care. 
JVo  tenga  Vmd.  miedo,  cuidado,  don't 

be  afraid,  don*t  mind. 
Aqui  estoy  yo,  I  am  here. 
No  lo  repar^,  I  paid  no  attention  to  it. 
He  leido  una  porcion  de  ellas,  I  have 

read  some  of  them. 
Pondr(f  tierra  por  medio,  I  shall  be 

off,  (put  earth  between). 
Hace  mucho  papel,  he  makes  a  great 

show. 
Salid  d  las  tablas,  went  on  the  stage 

(boards). 
Echemos  un  cigarrillo,  let  us  make  a 

cigar. 
No  jfumo,  no  gasto  cigarros,  I  do  not 

smoke,  I  never  use  cigars. 
Fuego,  candela,  light  (to  light  cigars). 
Que  tonto  eres!  how  silly  you  are ! 
Me  volvid  la  hoja,  he  changed  the 

subject,  turned  over  a  new  leaf. 
Dice  sandezes,  he  talks  nonsense. 
Sabe  mucho,  he  is  a  clever  fellow. 
Sabe  un  punto  mas  que  el  diahlo,  he 

knows  a  trick  more  than  the  devil. 
Cachaza^  hay  <tfliipo,patience,  there's 

plenty  of  time. 
No  correpriesa,  there  is  no  hurry. 
Conque  se  marcha  Vmd.  de  ueras  f  so 

you  are  really  going  ? 
Espreciso,  no  hay  remedio,  it  must  be, 

tnere's  no  help. 
Holal    Senor  Don  Jose,  que  talf 

Hollo  I  Mr.  Joseph,  what  news? 


70 


XVI.   SPANISH  PHRASES. 


Sect.  I. 


Se  dice  en  el  pueblo,  they  say  in  the 

town. 
Mentiras,  no  lo  creo,  fibs,  I  don't  be- 
lieve it. 
Que  chismograjia  I  what  tittle-tattle ! 
Mala  lengua  tiene    Conchita,  little 

Concha  has  a  wicked  tongue. 
iVb  te  metas  en  eso,  have  nothing  to 

do  with  it. 
Que  caidas  tiene  1  how  droll  he  is ! 
Que  ocurrencias  !  how  witty ! 
£80  va  largOf  that's  a  long  affiiir. 
Por  lo  que  d  mi  toco,  as  far  as  de- 
pends on  me. 
Que  cara  tan  riauenal  what  a  cheer- 
ful countenance ! 
TVene  Vmd,  huena  cara,  you  are  look- 
ing very  well. 
Que   compuesta    estds!    how    well 

dressed  you  are,  how  well  got  up ! 
Venida  en  batea,  you  seem  to  come 

in  a  waiter  font  of  a  bandbox). 
Ilija  de  mi  alma,  de  mis  ojoSs  de  mi 

corazon,  daughter  of  my  soul,  of 

my  eyes,  of  my  heart. 
Como  V.  guste,  as  you  like  it. 
Toma,  para  echar  un  traguito,  here^s 

something  to  drink. 
Mucha  bulla  para  nada,  much  ado 

about  nothing. 
JEstoy  en  el  uso  de  la  palabra,  I  have 

not  lost  my  speech. 
dalle  Vmd,  hombrey  calle  la  boca! 

hold  your  tongue,  sir  I 
Calle  Vmd,  muger  I  hold  your  tongue, 

madam  I 
Que  leparece  d  Vmd,  f  what  do  you 

think  of  it? 
De  me  Vmd.  el  pico  de  la  cnenta,  give 

me  the  change  of  my  bill. 
£8toy  muy  de  priesa,  I  am  in  a  great 

hurry. 
JSsto  no  acaecerd  otra  vex,  it  shall  not 

happen  another  time. 
Que  enfadoy  que  pesadez — que  moles- 

tia,  que  majaaerial  what  a  bore, 
-  what  a  nuisance  I 
Diga  Vmd.,  mire  Vmd,,  tell  me,  look 

here. 
Tenga  Vmd,  la  bondad  de  decirme, 

be  so  good  as  to  tell  me. 
Hagame   Vmd,  el  favor,  do  me  the 

favour. 
Ouste  d  Vmd,  decirme,  pray  please 

to  tell  me. 


Aca£cid  en  el  tiempo  del  rey  Wamba, 
it  happened  in  the  time  of  Wamba. 

JVb  me  pasa  el  pellejo,  it  does  not  wet 
through  my  skin. 

Tomar  el  aire,  el  fresco,  to  take  an 
airing. 

Jesus!  que  color  hace  I  how  hot  it  is ! 

Vengo  molido,  hecho  pedazos,  I  am 
knocked  all  to  pieces. 

Manos  blancas  no  ofenden,  white 
hands  (the  fair  sex)  never  hurt. 

Conque  me  marcho,  so  I  must  go 
now. 

Vaya  Vmd,  con  Dios,  well,  God  bless 
you. 

Quede  Vmd.  con  Dios,  may  you  re- 
main with  God. 

A  los  pies  de  mi  senora,  my  respects 
to  your  wife. 

Agour^  good  bye ;  pronounced  abour, 

Muchas  memorias,  remember  me  to 
aU. 

Expressiones,  say  everything  civil 
from  me. — Aaios,  adieu. 

HaMa  la  vista,  Hasta  despues,  au 
revoir. 

Cosas  de  Espana — "  Things  of 
Spain ;"  i,  e.  peculiarities  tending 
to  illustrate  national  character. 
The  expression  is  common  among 
all  classes,  and  is  that  by  which 
the  natives  designate  anything 
which  they  either  cannot  or  will 
not  explain  to  strangers. 

Bisonos  —  Wanters ;  Beggars  ;  the 
**  under  which  King,  Bezonian  V  of 
Pistol  is  an  old  Spanish  term,  and 
much  used  by  Toreno  to  express  the 
soldiers  of  a  regular  Spanish  army 
—  Cosas  de  2itan»  paupertas, 
egestas — "  always,"  as  the  Duke 
says,  "  hors-de  combat,  always  in 
want  of  everything  at  the  most 
critical  moment ;"  so  in  Italy,  the 
needy  troops  of  even  Charles  V. 
were  always  asking  for  every- 
thing —  Bisogna  cami,  Bisogna 
denari. 

JVb«o<r«w— We,   i,e,   the  Spaniards; 

^  the  collective  expression  of  indi- 
vidual egotism ;  each  I  or  item  of 
the  aggregate  considering  himself 
as  No.  1  among  mortals,  as  Spain 
is  No.  1,  the  first  and  foremost  of 
nations. 


Spain,    XVII.  weights,  etc. — ^xviii.  authorities  quoted.         71 


XVII. — Relative  Scale  op  Spanish  and  English  Weights, 

Distances,  and  Measures. 

Now  that  civilization  is  all  the  rage  in  Spain  a  scheme  is  in  contem* 
plation  to  introduce  one  uniform  rule  in  these  matters,  which  is  to  be 
based  on  the  decimal  and  French  system ;  meanwhile. 

Weights, 

English  Eqalvftlent. 
1  Tomin. 


Spanish 
12  Granos  . 

3  Tomines 
2  Adarmes 
8  Dracmas 
8  Onzas  • 
2  Marcos  • 

25  Libras   . 

4  Arrobas 


12 
12 


1  Adarme. 

1  Dracma  »  « 

1  Onza  .     • 

1  Marco      •  . 

1  Libra       •  • 

1  Arroba    .  « 

1  QaiDtal    •  i 

Distances, 

Pulgada  . 
Pie    .     .     , 
Codo 


Drachm. 

Ounce. 

Marc 

Poand. 

Quarter  of  Cwt. 

Hundred  Weight. 


Lineas  •     •     •     •  1  Pulgada  .     .     •     •  =  Inch. 

Puls:adas   ...  I  Pie =  Foot. 

1  j  Pie^     ....  1  Codo       .  .     .  =  •  Cubit 

^Codos    |_    .  ,^,^ =  Y.«l. 

The  English  foot  is  13  Spanish  inches.  The  English  yard  is  1  Spa- 
nish and  3J  inches.  The  English  mile  is  1925  Spanish  yards,  2  feet. 
The  new  Spanish  legua  is  equal  to  about  3}  English  miles. 

Com  and  Dry  Measures, 
4  Ochavillos  •     •-    .     1  Ochavo    .     •     •     . 


4  Ochayos 
4  Cuartillos 
12  Celemines 
12  Fanegas 


Pint 

Peck. 

About  one  Cwt. 


1  bushel  is  about 


1  Cuartillo  •  .  •  = 
1  Celemin  .  •  •  •  = 
1  Fanega  .  •  .  •  = 
1  Csdz. 
Our  quarter  is  about  5  Fanegas,  1)  Celemin. 
H  Celemines. 

An  Aranzadtty  or  Spanish  acre,  is  as  much  land  as  a  pair  of  oxen  can 
plough  in  a  day  ;  a  Fcmega  is  that  quantity  which  requires  a  Fanega 
of  grain  to  sow  it. 

Liquid  Measures,  Wine,  &c, 

.  1  Cuartillo. 

•  1  Azumbre    .     •     •  =  Pint. 
.  1  Cuartilla    •     •     •  rs  Quart. 

•  1  Arroba. 
.  1  Bota  o  Pipa     •     •  =  About  110  to  115  gallons. 

About  7  Cuartillos  make  our  Gallon. 

XVlll. — ^Authorities  quoted. 

This  Handbook,  destined  chiefly  for  the  antiquarian  and  dilletante  on 
his  travels,  does  not  profess  to  enter  into  prisons,  poor-law,  power-looms, 
political  economy,  or  statistics,  grave  matters  detailed  in  Madoz  and 
Minutoli,  while  our  lighter  volumes  are  intended  to  go  in  Alforjas  and  be 
handled  on  the  saddle.  In  quoting  authorities  for  statements,  Spanish 
authors  will  be  chiefly  selected,  as  being  the  most  readily  accessible  in 
a  country  where  foreign  books  are  very  rare  ;  when  other  authors  are 


4  Copas  . 
4  Cuartillos  • 
2  Azumbres . 
4  Cuartillas . 
29  Arrobas     . 


72        XVni.   SP.  HISTORICAL  AND  ARTISTICAL  AUTHORITIES.     Sect;  T. 

quoted,  those  will  be  taken  who,  by  common  consent,  in  Spain  and 
out,  are  held  by  their  respective  countrymen  to  be  most  deserving  of 
credit :  a  fre^iuent  reference  will  be  made  to  authorities  of  all  kinds, 
ancient  as  well  as  modern.  Thus  the  home  reader  or  writer  who  is 
anxious  to  pursue  any  particular  subject  will  find  his  researches  facili- 
tated, and  all  will  have  a  better  guarantee  that  facts  are  stated  correctly 
than  if  they  were  merely  depending  on  the  unsupported  assertion  of  an 
individual. 

1.   HISTORICAL  AND  ARTISTICAL  AUTHORITIES. 

Mariana  (Juan  de),  Historia  General  de  Espaua,  in  books  and 
chapters  :  this  history,  written  originally  in  Latin,  was  also  published 
in  Spanish  with  corrections  and  additions  by  its  learned  author  in 
1628,  who  is  termed  their  "  Livy  "  by  his  countrymen.  The  work, 
continued  and  illustrated  down  to  Charles  III.,  by  Eduardo  Chao, 
4  vols.  8vo.,  Mad.  1849,  offers  a  fair  collection  of  factSy  for  it  was  not 
likely  that  the  author,  a  priest  and  Jesuit,  would  have  taken  liberal  or 
philosophical  views  of  many  of  the  most  important  bearings  of  his 
country's  annals,  even  had  any  truly  searching  spirit  of  investigation 
been  ever  permitted  by  the  censorship  of  the  Government  and  Inqui- 
sition. 

Mohammedan  Dynasties  in  Spain,  2  vols.  4to.,  London,  1841-43,  by 
Don  Pascual  Oayangos,  the  first  Hispano- Arabic  scholar  of  his  day,  who 
unites  to  indefatigable  industry  a  sound  critical  judgment ;  written  in 
English,  this  work  must  henceforward  take  its  place  as  the  t^t-book 
on  the  subject. 

Historia  de  los  Ardbes  en  Espana,  by  Juan  Antonio  Oonde,  4  vols. 
4to.,  Mad.  1820-21,  is  compiled  entirely  from  Arabic  authorities,  and  is 
very  dry  reading ;  the  premature  death  of  the  author  prevented  his 
giving  it  the  last  finishing  touches,  hence  sundry  inaccuracies,  and  a 
general  want  of  arrangement.  It  was  translated  into  French  by  a  M. 
Maries,  3  vols.,  Paris,  1825  ;  or  rather  murdered,  as  the  original  text  is 
misrepresented  and  rendered  uncertain  by  the  introduction  of  new  and 
inaccurate  matter. 

Diccionario  de  las  Bellas  Artes,  6  vols.  8vo.,  Mad.  1800,  by  Jitan 
Agustin  Cean  Bermvdez,  forms  a  complete  dictiouary  of  all  the  leading 
artists  of  Spain,  with  their  biographies,  lists  of  their  principal  works, 
and  where  they  are  or  were  to  be  seen  ;  for  this  book  in  the  hands  of 
the  Soults  and  Co.  proved  a  catalogue  which  indicated  what  and  where 
was  the  most  valuable  artistical  plunder.  The  substance  has  been  most 
ably  and  agreeably  eviscerated  by  W.  Stirling  in  his  Annals  of  Spain, 
while  the  mass  of  additional  information  is  what  might  be  expected  from 
the  research  of  this  accurate  and  indefatigable  author.  Consult  also 
Handbook  of  the  Spanish  School  of  Painting,  by  Sir  E.  Head,  1848  ;  and 
the  condensed  epitome  of  architecture,  sculpture,  and  painting,  "Die 
Christliche  Ktmst  in  Spanien,*  Leipzig,  1853,  by  J.  D.  Passavant,  the 
director  of  the  Frankfort  Museum,  who  purposes  to  write  an  artistical 
tour  through  the  Peninsula. 

Noticias  de  los  Arquitectos  y  Arquitectura,  by  J.  A.  Cean  Bermudez, 
4  vols.  4to.,  Mad.,  1829,  is  an  excellent  dictionary  of  architecture.  This 
author  edited  and  improved  the  text  of  Don  Eugenic  Llaguno  y  Amirola ; 


Spain,     xvjii.  sp.  historica.l  and  artistical  authorities.      73 

unfortunately  both  wrote  under  the  influence  of  their  purist  pedantic 
GrsBCo-Romano  academical  age,  which  had  little  feeling  ibr  any  of  the 
earlier  styles.  To  investigate  theremains  of  classical  antiquity,  and  tourge 
on  and  eulogise  classical  copyists  was  their  chief  end,  to  the  comparative 
neglect  of  other  branches  of  the  subject.  1l\\q Swmario  de  las  Antigiie- 
dizdes  Romatms  en  Espana,  1  vol.  foL,  Mad.  1832,  by  the  same  author, 
gives  a  correct  summary  of  all  the  chief  remains  of  antiquity  which 
still  exist  in  Spain,  with  copious  indexes. 

An  epitome  of  Spanish  Architecture  will  be  found  in  a  paper  of  ours  in 
the  Quarterly,  No.  cliv.  (1846).  Consult  also  the  useful  Ensayo  ffistorico, 
by  Jos^  Caveda,  8vo.,  Mad.  1849,  in  which  every  style  is  traced  from 
the  Eoman  to  the  present  period,  with  the  still-existing  examples  cited. 

Historia  Critica  of  Juan  Francisco  Masdeu,  20  vols.  4to.,  Mad.  1784, 
18C5.  This  work  of  research,  although  tedious,  contains  a  vast  collec- 
tion of  documentary  information  and  antique  inscriptions ;  these  title- 
deeds  of  the  dead,  saved  from  the  wreck  of  time,  are  now  doubly 
valuable,  as  many  of  the  originals  have  perished.  Here,  while  no  dry 
bone  of  antiquity  is  left  unpicked,  too  much  of  the  mediaeval  and  modern 
has  been  passed  over.  Begun,  like  many  things  of  Spain,  on  too  grand 
and  extensive  a  scale,  this  work  never  was  completed. 

For  the  ancient  geography  of  Spain,  consult  Geographic  von  Hispanien, 
Konrad  Mannert,  8vo.,  3rd  edit.,  Leipsig,  1829  ;  and,  better  still,  BiS' 
panien,  Fr.  Aug.  Ukert,  Weimar,  1821,  second  part,  p.  229.  For  early 
History  down  to  the  Goths,  oow&xAirHistoire  O en e rale  de  I'Espagne,  B. 
Depping,  2  vols.  8vo.,  Paris,  1814 ;  and  excellent,  but  not  yet  com- 
pleted, Histoire  de  VEspagne  of  M.  Eomey.  However,  as  to  her  history, 
few  countries  are  more  indebted  to  another  than  Spain  is  to  English 
and  American  writers ;  suffice  it  to  mention  the  names  of  Bobertson, 
Dunlop,  Coxe,  Irving,  Presoott,  Lord  Mahon,  Stirling,  and  others. 

The  Viaje  de  Espana,  by  Antonio  Ponz,  18  vols..  Mad.  1786-94, 
presents  a  valuable  itinerary  of  Spain  as  it  was,  before  the  most  precious 
monuments  were  destroyed,  and  its  treasures  plundered  by  Vandals 
foreign  and  domestic.  This  Leland  of  Spain  published  his  itineraries 
to  rebut  some  caustic  criticisms  of  the  Vago  Italiano,  the  Padre  Caimo ; 
for  it  is,  and  has  long  been  one  of  the  weaknesses  of  Spain  since  her 
decline,  to  consider  herself/he  object  of  the  envy  and  admiration  of  the 
imiversal  mankind,  and  to  fancy  that  all  are  conspired  to  misunderstand 
and  depreciate  her  superior  excellencies ;  then,  as  now,  those  foreigners 
who  tell  the  truth,  are  set  down  as  liars,  libellers,  and  antagonists,  just 
as  if  a  mariner  should  quarrel  with  his  best  friend,  an  honest  barometer. 
Ponz,  a  kind-hearted  careful  observer,  could  not  escape  the  one-sided  pre- 
judices of  his  age,  which  looked  only  to  the  antique,  or  to  the  imitations 
of  classical  style.  He  was  cruelly  addicted  to  the  Castilian  disease  of  twad- 
dle, and  the  pith  of  his  18  tomes  might  be  condensed  into  half-a-dozen. 

Diccionario  Oeografco,  by  Sebastian  de  Mifiano,  10  vols.  4to.,  Mad. 
1826-9.  This  geographical  and  topographical  description  of  the  Pen- 
insula was  somewhat  "  done  to  order  "  for  the  home  market,  and  over 
coloured  to  flatter  the  government  of  the  day  ;  it  is  now  completely 
superseded  by  the  Diccionario  Qeografico  Estadistico  Bistorico  of 
Pascual  Madoz,  xvi.  vol.  4to.,  Mad.  1848-50.  This  important  work 
is  indeed  a  creditable  monument  of  individual  perseverance,  imaided 

Sfaik. — I.  * 


74  xviii.  sp.  RELIGIOUS  AUTHORITIES.  Sect.  L 

nay  thwarted  by  some  of  the  "powers  that  be."  They  disliked 
**  taking  stock"  when  they  had  no  effects,  and  obstructed  revelations  of 
the  prison-house,  and  of  that  nakedness  of  the  land  brought  about  by 
misgovemment — the  true  source  of  evil  to  which  Madoz  alludes,  as  much 
as  he  dare  do.  The  people,  on  their  parts,  disliked  to  be  numbered,  as  be- 
tidii^  no  good,  and  significative  of  fresh  taxes,  increased  conscription.  Sec, 

The  articles  in  this  work  differ,  having  been  furnished  by  "  1000  " 
local  contributors.  The  amount  of  information  in  statistics,  in  judicial, 
criminal,  commercial,  and  fiscal  details,  is  considerable,  and  must  prove 
of  great  iise  to  original  tour  writers.  The  geologist  also  will  find  much 
new  and  interesting  matter.  P.  Madoz,  a  gallant  partizan,  and  a  Catalan 
liberal,  was  banished  by  Ferdinand  VII.  to  France,  of  whose  young 
school  he  became  a  disciple  ;  hence  he  sneers  at  England — fria  cal- 
culadora — and  attributes  Spain's  independence  to  Spanish  arms 
alone !  Never  weary  of  monstering  her  molehills  into  mountains, 
of  trumpeting  forth  the  bush -fightings  of  partizan  warfare,  as  pro- 
digios  de  valor,  he  escapes  from  the  chronic  atrophy  of  present  pa- 
ralisis,  to  recollections  of  a  glorious  ^pa«^  and  hopes  of  a  brilliant /t^^ure. 
'^Gosas  de  Espan% ;  and  we  may  mention  one  other  "  thing :"  when 
the  real  value  of  this  work  was  recognised,  the  government  felt  bound  to 
offer  some  sort  of  patronage,  and  as  "  funds  were  wanting,"  hit  upon 
this  scheme.  All  cesantes,  widows,  &c.,  who  had  pensions  with  long 
atrdsos,  arrears,  were  allowed  to  take  copies  of  this  work,  without  pay- 
ment, to  the  amount  due  to  them  from  Government,  which  many  did, 
selling  them  forthwith ;  thus  a  work  worth  80  dollars  fell,  from  the 
glut  in  the  market,  to  about  15  or  20. 

The  best  and  rarest  of  the  local  histories  will  be  named  in  their 
respective  localities.  This  branch  of  Spanish  literature  forms  indeed 
a  goodly  row  on  the  book  collector's  shelf — ^praeclara  Supellex. 

2.   BELIGIOUS  AUTHORITIES. 

La  Espaiia,  Sagrada,  commenced  in  1747,  now  consists  of  47  vols. 
4to. ;  this  a  grand  work,  framed  on  the  scope  of  the  Italia  Sacra  of 
Ughelli,  1644,  and  the  Gallia  Ghristiana  of  the  brothers  Sainte  Marthe, 
1716,  was  compiled  by  the  learned  Padre  Henrique  Florez,  who  maybe 
called  the  Dugdale,  Muratori,  or  Montfaucon  of  Spain.  The  Academia  de 
la  Historia  of  Madrid  is  charged  with  its  continuance,  but  so  many  of  the 
archives  of  cathedrals  and  convents  were  made  cartridges  of  by  the  Soults 
and  Snchets,  and  destroyed  during  the  recent  civil  wars  and  sequestra- 
tions, that  the  treatment  of  the  latter  dioceses  must  of  necessity  be  some- 
what inferior  to  the  former,  from  the  lack  of  those  earliest  and  most 
interesting  documents,  which,  fortunately  printed  by  Florez,  were  thus 
rescued  from  destruction ;  Florez  is  also  the  author  ofMedaUasde  Espana, 
3  vols,  folio.  Mad.  1757,  73.  The  3rd  volume,  rather  rare,  and  smaller 
than  the  two  preceding,  treats  of  the  coins  and  medals  of  Spain  earlier 
than  the  Romans,  and  down  to  the  Goths  :  plates  are  given  of  the  ex- 
amples, and  a  short  account  of  the  mints  in  which  they  were  struck. 
These,  the  portrait  and  picture  books  of  antiquity,  and  of  all  its  re- 
mains' those  which  have  best  escaped,  now  possess  a  value  far  different 
from  their  original  monetary  standard,  and  one  the  ancients  never  con- 
'  "^mplated,  and  illustrate  at  once  the  religion,  war,  and  history  of  the  past. 


Spain^  xvm.  sp.  militaey  authorities.  76 

Flos  Sanctorum^  or  Vida  de  los  Santos,  by  the  Jesuit  Pedro  Riba« 
ileneyra  and  others.  The  Madrid  fol,  edit,  of  1790,  3  vols.,  is  that 
here  quoted.  It  gives  the  present  church  authorised  version  of 
legends  and  monkish  miracles — shorn  indeed  from  the  Legcnda  Aurea 
of  Voragine,  and  suited  to  more  enlightened  and  sceptical  times. 
Fi*-  Pacheco,  in  his  Arte  de  la  Fintura,  also  details  the  correct  colours 
and  attributes  with  which  these  legends  were  to  be  expressed  by  the 
imitative  arts ;  consult  also  Fictor  Chriatianus  Eruditus,  Juan  Justerian 
de  Ayala,  fol..  Mad.  1730 ;  or  the  Spanish  translation  by  Luis  de  Duran, 
2  vols.  4to.,  Mad.  1782.  Without  some  of  these  books  none  can 
hope  to  understand  the  fine  arts  of  the  Peninsula,  whether  in  cathedral 
or  gallery  ;  indeed.  Palomino  (ii.  131)  considered  a  work  of  this  kind 
to  be  absolutely  indispensable  to  every  Spanish  artist,  as  being  to  mo- 
dern papal  hagiography,  what  a  Lempri^re  is  to  ancient  pagan  my- 
thology. Nor  in  many  cases  will  mucn  more  be  found  to  be  changed 
than  the  mere  names. 

3.   MILITABY  AUTHOBITIEB. 

These  necessarily  are  of  3  classes,  and  belong  to  the  invader,  th« 
French ;  the  invaded,  the  Spanish ;  and  the  deliverer,  the  English. 
They  correct  and  explain  each  other. 

(Euvres  de  N,  Buonaparte,  5  vols.  8vo.,  Paris,  1822.  Le  Style  est 
rHommej  and  great  as  this  great  general  was  in  victories — Marengo, 
Jena,  Aiisterlitz — and  greater  in  the  number  of  his  reverses — Egypt, 
Bussia,  Leipsig,  and  Waterloo,  he  was  greatest  by  far  as  a  phrasemaker,  a 
writer  of  leading  articles,  and  was  indubitably  the  first  **  Thunderer"  of 
France.  These  tomes  contain  his  Moniteur  proclamations,  bulletins, 
and  information,  "  garbled,"  as  the  Duke  says,  "  in  the  usual  Jacobin 
style,"  and  filled  with  '*  the  usual  philippics  "  against  la  perfide  Albion 
et  son  or.  True  exponents  of  this  true  Italian  and  of  his  machiavellian 
system,  his  compositions  breathe  fire  and  spirit,  splendide  mendax ;  and 
if  occasionally  Ossianic,  and  the  very  reverse  of  the  dispatches  of  our 
plain  veracious  Duke,  were  admirably  suited  for  his  readers  and  pur- 
poses. Although  the  truth  is  seldom  in  them,  they  fascinate  by  their 
**  invention  "  and  daring,  and  bum  like  sparks  struck  from  granite  by 
the  sword.  His  nonsense  suited  the  nonsense  of  a  time  and  followers, 
who  neither  understood  nor  appreciated  a  quiet  undemonstrative  per- 
formance of  duty ;  to  whom,  from  having  no  feeling  for  moral  greatness, 
La  gloire  came  more  acceptable  when  arrayed  in  the  melodramatic  tinsel 
of  a  Franconi  Murat.  These  things  are  matters  of  taste  and  race.  To 
deny  Buonaparte's  military  merits  would  be  absurd,  and  in  none  more 
60  than  an  Englishman,  at  whose  expense  no  single  leaf  of  his  large 
ohaplet  was  earned ;  and  those  who  unjustly  seek  to  curtail  its  fair 
proportions,  rob  our  soldiers  and  sailors  of  naif  their  glory ;  but  as  a 
man  and  a  civilian  he  was  mean,  and  the  incarnation  of  selfish 
•egotism. 

Histoire  de  la  Ouerre  dans  la  F^insuU,  General  Foy,  4  vols.,  Paris, 
1827.  This  author,  one  of  the  humble  instruments  of  the  despot  Empire 
and  rule  of  brute  force,  became  a  patriot  under  the  gentle  constitutional 
Restoration.  Like  all  inferior  imitators,  he  out-herods  and  out-buckrams 
Buonaparte.    Even  his  friend  Chateaubriand,  no  foe  in  the  abstract  t 


76  XVIII.   SP.  MILITARY  AUTHOEITIES.  Sect.  I. 

charlatanism,  describes  him  as  ''homme  dMmagination  et  sujet  k  se 
tromper"  (Congres  de  Ver,  43).  Eloquent  and  clever  as  M.  Foy  was, 
he  could  not  always  invent  facts,  or  guess  numbers  accurately ;  nor 
was  he  equal  to  that  most  difficult  of  all  tasks,  the  sustaining  consist- 
ently throughout  a  "  fiction  of  military  romance."  The  truth  creeps 
out  in  accidental  contradictions.  Foy,  says  Sir  G.  Murray  (*  Quart. 
Keview,'  cxi.  167),  who  knew  him  well  in  peace  and  war,  has  as  "  a 
writer  shown  notoriously  the  grossest  ignorance  in  respect  to  many 
particulars  connected  with  England,  about  which  a  very  slight  inquiry 
would  have  set  him  right."  M.  Foy,  who  was  present  at  every  sauve 
qui  pent  J  from  Roleia  to  Waterloo,  has  the  face  to  deny  to  the  Duke  the 
commonest  military  talent,  attributes  his  successes  to  accident,  and 
ascribes  the  valour  of  British  soldiers  principally  to  "  beef  and  rum  ;'* 
see  i.  230,  259,  290,  325,  et  passim.     Bisum  teneatis  ? 

Jou/maux  des  Sieges  dans  la  PSnin^ule*3.  Belmas,  4  vols.  8vo.,  Paris, 
1836,  projected  by  Buonaparte  in  1812,  and  finished  by  Soult,  professes 
to  be  based  on  authentic  documefiits  (for  what  they  are  see  p.  79)  in 
the  French  war-office — it  details  how  the  English  forces  were  always 
double  in  number  to  the  French,  the  reverse  being  nearer  the  truth. 

Much  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  Victoires  et  Conquites  des  Fran- 
cis, 26  vols.  8vo.,  Paris,  1818-21 ;  this  compilation  of  a  set  of  inferior 
officers  and  small  gens-de-lettres,  aft^  the  second  capture  of  Paris,  ex- 
hibits throughout  an  untrue,  unfair,  and  virulent  tone  against  the 
countrymen  of  Nelson  and  Wellington,  about  whom  they  write  so  much 
in  hate  and  ignorance,  and  so  little  in  fact  or  honour  ;  and  yet  this  is 
the  vomit  to  which  some  of  our  neighbours  return  when  writing  on  this 
subject.  (See  M.  Gagenon  on  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  1852.)  The 
characteristics  of  other  modem  historical  romance  writers  of  the  Lamar- 
tine  and  Thiers  class  are  thus  truly  hit  off  by  our  Napier,  when  dealing 
with  the  latter  little  gentleman's,  "  pages  sparkling  with  paste  bril- 
liants, but  wanting  the  real  jewel  truth." 

The  Itvndraire  descriptif  de  VEspagne,  by  Alez.  de  Laborde,  6  vols., 
Paris,  1827,  Ijke  Murphy's  *  Alhambra,'  was  a  bookseller's  speculation, 
and  in  both  cases  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  the  authors  ever  were  at 
all  in  Spain,  so  gross,  palpable,  and  numerous  are  the  inaccuracies : 
some  idea  of  the  multitudinous  and  almost  incredible  mistakes  and  mis- 
statements of  Laborde  may  be  formed  by  reading  the  just  critique  of 
the  *  Edin.  Rev.'  xv.  6.  The  third  edition,  1827,  was  tickled  up  by 
one  Bory  de  St.  Vincent,  an  aide-de-camp  to  Soult,  a  rabid  Buonapart- 
ist,  and  author  of  a  poor  Guide  des  Voyageurs  en  Espagne,  Paris, 
1823.  Of  his  qualifications  he  gives  an  account  in  the  D^cace — 
"  having  galloped  in  less  than  a  year  more  than  1400  leagues."  "  Vous 
jugerez  par  ce  rapide  narr^,  des  facilit^s  que  j'ai  eu  pour  hien  voir 
I'Espagne,  et  concevrez  quefaicruipouvoiT  en  ^crire  avec  connaissance  de 
catise.'*  This  Bory  afterwards  became,  like  Foy,  a  patriot^  andf  in 
1815  edited,  under  a  false  name,  a  jacobin  paper  at  Ghent. 

Biographie  UniverseUe,  74  vols.  8vo.,  Paris,  1811-43,  is  a  respectable 
compilation,  although  not  free  from  bias  whenever  tender  national 
subjects  are  concerned. 

The  materials  for  writing  political  and  military  history,  under 
"^uonaparte,  were  systematically  tampered  with,  and  the  sources  of 


Spain,  xvui.  sp,  military  authorities.  77 

correct  information  were  corrupted  as  a  matter  of  course ;  his  throne 
was  hung  around  with  a  curtain  of  falsehood,  lined  with  terror ;  or,  in 
the  words  of  his  own  agent,  I'Abb^  de  Pradt,  with  ruse  doublee  de  terreur. 
Under  him,  says  even  Foy,  i.  17,  "  La  presse  ^tait  esclave ;  la  police 
repoussait  la  v^rit^  avec  autant  de  soins,  que  s*il  fiit  agi  d'<Scarter 
I'invasion  de  I'ennemi."  "  At  all  times,"  says  the  Duke  (*  Disp.,' 
July  8,  1815)  "  of  the  French  revolution,  the  actors  in  it  have  not 
scrupled  to  resort  to  falsehood,  either  to  give  a  colour  or  palliate  tlieir 
adoption  or  abandonment  of  any  line  of  policy ;  and  they  think,  pro- 
vided the  falsehood  answers  the  purpose  of  the  moment,  it  is  fully 
justified." 

Under  the  system,  formed  in  the  school  of  such  revolutions,  the  truth 
could  seldom  be  known,  when  a  disaster  was  represented  as  a  victory,  and 
the  meaning-pregnant  word  honour  was  narrowed  into  mere  honneur,  or 
exhibition  of  personal  bravery  in  the  field ;  it  followed,  in  the  utter  want 
of  moral  principle,  that  neither  to  lie  or  steal  were  held  to  disgrace  a 
general,  provided  he  was  not  beaten  in  battle.  Buonaparte  renewed,  in 
war  and  politics,  the  old  "  Dolus  an  virtus  quis  in  hoste,  requirit  j**  and 
to  him  again  is  applicable  the  character  given  by  Livy  to  Hannibal 
(xxi.  4) :  "  Has  tantas  viri  virtutes,  ingentia  vitia  equabant ;  inhumana 
crudelitas,  perfidia  plusquam  Punica,  nihil  veri,  nihil  sancti,  nuUus 
Deilm  metus,  nullum  jus  jurandum,  nulla  religio." 

Nor  can  it  be  wondered  at,  when  sans-culottes  were  thus  placed  at  the 
head  of  chivalrous  civilized  France,  that  a  low  morality  should  have  been 
too  much  the  order  of  the  day ;  tel  maitre,  teU  valets.  When  Lefebvre  broke 
his  parole^  his  master — instead  of  sending  him  back,  as  the  Duke  would 
have  done,  "  had  any  English  officer  been  capable  of  such  dishonour  " 
(*Disp.'  Oct.  20,  1809) — approved  of  the  foul  deed,  and  promoted 
him !  Under  such  circumstances,  the  Duke  "  could  place  no  confidence 
in  their  parole  "  (June  30, 1811).  Now  the  farceur  Foy,  who  ascribes  the 
bravery  of  our  dull  slow  soldiers  to  **  beef  and  rum,"  thinks  that "  honour 
is  a  motive  too  delicate  for  their  dense  organization,  and  that  our  ofiicers 
lack  the  exclusive  idolatry  of  it  of  the  French"  (i.  235,  241),  and  this 
while  Buonaparte  was  doing  his  best  to  bring  back  those  dark  ages,  when 
telling  a  lie  was  but  a  familiar  jest,  and  a  breach  of  parole  and  perjury 
only  a/ofon  de  parler,  "  Francis  familiare  erat  ridendo  fidem  frangere  " 
(F.  Vopiscus  Proculus).  "  Si  pejeret  Francus  quid  novi  faceret,  qui 
jDcrjurium  ipsum  sermonis  genus  putat  esse,  non  criminis  "  (Salvien  de 
G.  D.  iv).  The  Duke  knew  exactly  what  he  might  venture  to  believe, 
for  he  distrusted  even  their  honour  among  each  other :  **  Although  we 
rarely  find  the  tmth  in  the  public  reports  of  the  French  government  w 
of  their  officers,  I  believe  we  may  venture  to  depend  upon  the  truth  of 
what  is  written  in  cipher  "  (*  Disp.'  January  29, 1813).  But  according 
to  M.  Foy,  Wellington  was  "  un  General  vulgaire !"  (i.  325) ;  "  d*un 
port^e  ordinaire  1"  (i.  259),  when  compared  with  the  Marshals  of  the 
Empire,  "  Demigods  of  the  *  Iliad'  "  (i.  325) ;  whom — ^par  parenth^se 
— he  defeated  one  after  the  other,  as  easily  as  he  did  their  master. 
And  now  in  1852 1  according  to  M.  Thiers,  Nelson,  when  not  at  sea, 
is  still  un  homme  hom^ !  emd.  Wellmg,ton  d^un  peu  d'entendu!  These 
historical  romancers  become,  however,  authorities  when  admitting  any- 
thing against  themselves.    Such  confession  is  so  diametrically  oppose*^ 


TS-  XVIU.  SP.  MILITARY  AUTHORITIES.  Sect.  L 

to  their  whole  system,  that  the  reluctant  testimony  of  an  unwilling 
witness  becomes  admissible :  how  great  indeed  a  defeat  must  that  be 
which  they  term  a  "  nwi  sticch,**  or  do  not  claim  as  a  victory,  such  as 
Talavera,  Barrosa,  Albuera,  Fuentes  de  Ouoro,  Toulouse,  &c. — si  videos 
TioCy  gentibus  in  nostris,  risu  qtuitiare  \  It  is  indeed  strange  that  any 
individuals  of  a  nation  so  chivalrously  martial,  of  such  undisputed 
bravery,  should  not  understand  how  well  it  could  afford  to  admit  a 
reverse  in  a  fair  well-fought  fight,  and  that  any  one  of  a  people  of  such 
singular  cleverness  should  not  perceive  that  honesty,  in  the  end,  is  the 
best  and  the  most  manly  policy ;  and  passing  strange,  that  their  power 
and  keen  sensitiveness  of  ridicule  should  not  observe  the  smile  and  pity 
with  which  the  rest  of  the  world,  who  know  the  truth,  peruse  such 
braggadocio  balderdash  and  sheer  military  romancing,  as  Walter  Scott 
happily  terms  what  the  Foys,  Bory  St.  Vincents  and  Co.,  put  forth  as 
History  I  Meantime  no  English  traveller  who  values  his  time,  temper, 
or  breath,  will  argue  these  points.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  convince 
men  against  their  will,  and  cruel  to  undeceive  their  cherished  delusion, 
animi  gratissimiis  error  ;  qui  decijpi  vult  decipiatur, 

SPANISH  MILITARY  AUTHORITIES. 

They  have  two  objects :  one  to  detail  the  systematic  razzias  and 
the  wrongs  which  they  sustained  from  their  invaders ;  the  second,  to 
blink  as  much  as  possible  the  assistance  afforded  by  England,  and  to 
magnify  their  own  exertions.  They  all  demonstrate,  to  their  own  and 
Spain's  entire  satisfaction,  that  the  Peninsula  and  Europe  also,  was  de- 
livered from  the  iron  yoke  of  Buonaparte  by  Nosotros,  and  by  them  alone. 
Their  compilations  are  wearisome  to  read,  floundering  through  paltry 
partisan  gtterriUas,  "  little  wars,"  by  which  the  issue  of  the  great  cam- 
paign was  scarcely  ever  influenced ;  they,  in  a  word,  join  issue  with 
the  Duke,  who  when  a  conqueror  in  France,  Spain's  salvation  being 
accomplished,  wrote  thus : — "  It  is  ridictdous  to  suppose  that  the 
Spaniards  or  the  Portuguese  could  have  resisted  for  a  moment  if  the 
British  force  had  been  withdrawn''  (*  Disp.*  Dec.  21, 1813).  The  tra- 
veller, when  standing  on  the  battle-plains  of  Talavera,  Barrosa,  and 
Salamanca,  will  hear  the  post  of  superiority  assigned  to  Nosotros,  by 
whose  misconduct  on  each  of  these  very  occasions  our  full  triumph  was 
marred. 

Histoire  de  la  Revolution  d^Espagnef  3  vols.  Leipsig,  1829-31,  by 
Schepeler,  a  Westphalian,  holding  a  commission  in  the  Spanish  service, 
uid  imbued  with  all  the  worst  national  prejudices.  Hispanis  Hispanior, 
he  vents  his  dislike  to  the  French  by  appalling  details  of  sacks,  &c.,  and 
his  hatred  to  the  English  by  sneering  at  her  generals  and  soldiers. 

La  Historia  Pditica  y  Militar,  3  vols.  Madrid,  1833,  was  compiled 
"  to  order"  of  the  grateful  Ferdinand  VII.  by  one  Jos^  Mufioz  Maldo- 
nado,  from  official  Spanish  papers,  in  order  to  fool  Spanish  pride, 
"  orguUo  nacional,^^  to  the  top  of  its  bent>  and  to  write  down  Col, 
Napier's  truthful  and  therefore  most  unpopular  revelations.  Hear  the 
Duke's  opinions  on  these  Peninsular  sources  of  historical  information : — 
"  In  respect  to  papers  and  returns,  I  shall  not  even  take  the  trouble  of 
reading  them,  because  I  know  that  they  are  ^^/ahricated  for  a  par- 
tictdar  purpose,  and  cannot  contain  an  answer  to  the  strong  fact  from 


Spain.  xvui.  sp.  military  authorities.  79 

me."  **  Nothing  shall  induce  me  even  to  read,  much  less  to  give  an 
answer  to  documentos  very  ingeniously  framed,  but  which  do  not  contain 
one  word  bearing  on  the  point."  (*  Disp.'  June  4,  1811.)  "  I  have  no 
leisure  to  read  long  papers,  which  are  called  documents^  but  which 
contain  not  one  syUcMe  of  truth  J^  These,  like  the  pieces  qfficielles  et 
jmtijicatives  of  the  Buonapartists,  on  which  certain  authors  base  their 
astounding  romances,  are,  Anglice,  lies,  and  from  them  Maldonado 
ascribes  the  glorious  result  to  the  petty  war  of  the  guerriUeros,  and  not 
to  Salamanca  and  Yittoria  nominatim  (iii.  442),  for  the  part  of  Hamlet 
is  pretty  much  omitted ;  it  was  the  Spanish  armies  that  the  Duke  led 
to  victory  (iii.  594),  the  English  are  not  even  named :  the  Spanish 
military  conduct  throughout  humbled  Buonaparte,  and  **  obfuscated  in 
sublimity  anything  in  Greek  or  Roman  history"  (iii.  601).  What 
hellebore  cau  cure  a  disease  like  this  ? 

The  Historia  del  LevantamientOy  >d:c,  de  Espanay  5  vols.  4to.  Madrid, 
1133-27,  by  the*Conde  de  Toreuo,  the  celebrated  loan  financier  and 
minister,  is  written  in  pure  Gastilian,  although  tainted  with  an  affecta- 
tion of  quaint  phraseology :  he  has  alio  borrowed  largely  from  Southey, 
without  acknowledgment. 

All  these  works,  written  either  by  official  personages  or  under  the 
eye  of  the  Government,  are  calculated  also  to  suppress  the  true,  and 
suggest  the  false ;  they  advocate  the  few  at  the  expense  of  the  many  ; 
they  defend  the  shallow  heads  and  corrupt  hearts  by  which  the  honest 
members  of  the  Spanish  nation  were  sacrificed,  by  which  whole  armies 
were  left  wanting  in  everything  at  the  most  critical  moment,  and  brave 
individiidl^  exposed  to  certain  collective  defeat.  As  Orpheus  and  San 
Antonio  charmed  brutes,  by  dulcet  strains  and  sermons,  so  Spanish 
juntas  and  authors  manage  to  seduce  their  countrymen  by  flattering 
tales,  and  by  cramming  them  with  La  Magnanima  Mensogna,  or 
Boinance,  so  congenial  to  their  ardent  imaginations  and  self-conceit : 
the  universal  nation  believes  greedily  what  it  vehemently  desires ; 
they  are  told,  and  doubt  not,  that  their  Guerilla  or  petty  war  was 
the  battle  of  giants ;  that  their  puddle  was  the  ocean,  their  minnows 
the  tritons,  and  a  very  small  supply  of  the  oil  of  facts  suffices  for  the 
lamp  of  their  so-called  history.  The  inveterate  Eastern  idiosyncracy 
seeks  to  be  deceived  with  false  prophesies,  and  "  the  people  love  to 
have  it  so."  Hence,  as  in  the  days  of  Jeremiah  (v.  31),  "  The  priests 
have  rule  by  these  means ;  and  Spanish  histories  of  the  war  are  only  to 
be  paralleled  by  Spanish  histories  of  monkish  miracles  and  legends. 

Far  be  it  from  us  to  imitate  their  example ;  for,  however  thwarted  by 
their  miserable  leaders  in  camp  and  cabinet,  honour  eternal  is  due  to  the 
PEOPLE  OP  Spain,  worthy  of  better  rulers  and  a  better  fortune !  And 
now  that  the  jobs  and  intrigues  of  their  Juntas,  the  misconduct  and  inca- 
pacity of  their  wretched  Generals,  are  sinking  into  the  deserved  obscurity 
of  oblivion,  the  national  resistance  as  a  whole  rises  nobly  out  of  the 
ridiculous  details,  a  grand  and  impressive  feature,  which  will  ever  adorn 
the  annals  of  hauschty  Spain.  That  resistance  was  indeed  wild,  disor- 
ganized, imdisciplined,  and  Algerine,  but  it  held  out  to  Europe  an 
example  which  was  not  shown  by  the  civilized  Italian  or  intellectual 
German.  A  wide  distinction  must  ever  be  drawn  between  individuals 
and  their  country  at  large.    Thus  in  speaking  of  chivalrous,  intellectual 


80  XVIII.   SP.  MILITARY  AUTHORITIES.  Sect.  I. 

afti  mighty  France,  never  is  the  time-honoured  glory  of  the  white 
panache  of  her  Henri  IV.  intended  to  be  stained  by  the  foul  deeds  com- 
mitted in  camp  or  cabinet,  in  cloister  or  city,  by  criminals  whom  a 
Robespierre  Revolution  raised  to  a  momentary  command ;  and  we  gladly 
hail  in  our  present  ally,  a  foe  whom  we  ever  have  found  worthy  of  our 
steel  in  war,  and  now  in  peace  a  no  less  noble  competitor  in  all  that 
humanises  and  ennobles  mankind.    Esto perpetual 

ENGLISH  MILITARY  AUTHORITIES. 

These  are  of  all  classes  and  quality.  Among  the  minor  and  most 
entertaining  are  the  works  of  Gleig,  Sherer,  and  Kincaid.  Hamilton's 
AnThoU  of  the  Peninsular  Campaigns,  revised  by  P.  Hardman,  1849,  is 
on  the  whole  one  of  the  fairest  compilations  from  the  best  authorities. 
We  shall  chiefly  quote  three  others. 

Southey's  History  of  the  Peninsvlar  War  is  a  true  exponent  of  its 
author,  a  scholar,  poet,  and  blind  lover  of  the  Spaniards,  their  ballads 
and  chronicles.  It  breathes  a  high,  generous,  monarchical  tone;  a 
detestation  of  the  tyrannical  and  revolutionary,  and  a  loathing  for 
cruelty,  bad  faith,  and  Vandalism.  It  is  somewhat  descriptive,  excur- 
sive, and  romantic,  and  the  work  of  a  civilian  and  professional  man  of 
letters;  indeed,  military  men  assert  that  the  author  had  not  the 
slightest  perception  of  their  craft,  or  ever  grappled  with  the  object  of 
any  campaign,  or  understood  a  single  battle.  The  Duke  thought  the 
"  book  a  romance,  and  so  I  told  him  " — ^ipse  dixit. 

The  History  of  the  War  in  the  Peninsvla,  by  Napier,  in  most  respects 
the  antithesis  to  Southey,  is  the  book  of  a  real  soldier,  and  characterized 
by  a  bold,  nervose,  and  high-toned  manliness.  The  style  is  graphic, 
original,  and  attractive.  He  scourges  with  a  whip  of  steel  our  own  and 
the  Spanish  governmental  mediocrities,  such,  without  the  Duke's  Dis- 
patches, as  the  world  never  could  have  believed.  He  has  placed  on 
record  "  the  ignorance  and  incapacity,  the  vanity,  cowardice,  hope- 
less imbecility,  insane  arrogance,  and  restless,  intriguing,  false,  and 
treacherous  spirit  of  our  Peninsular  allies,"  and  has  demonstrated, 
irrefragably  as  a  problem  in  Euclid,  that  "  Spain  at  the  end  was 
as  helpless  as  she  had  been  at  the  beginning  and  all  through  the  war, 
and  quite  unequal  to  her  own  deliverance  either  by  arms  or  policy ; 
that  it  was  English  valour  and  English  steel,  directed  by  the  genius  of 
an  English  general,  which,  rising  superior  to  all  obstacles,  whether  pre- 
sented by  his  own  or  the  Peninsular  governments,  or  by  the  perversity 
of  national  character,  alone  worked  out  her  independence ;"  and  his  best 
efforts,  it  may  be  added,  were  thwarted  by  a  malignant  opposition, 
whose  hopes  of  getting  into  place,  based  on  Buonaparte's  success,  led 
them  to  bully  and  hamper  a  feeble  ministry ;  in  fact,  to  defeat  the 
foe  in  the  field  was  the  easiest  of  the  Duke's  herculean  labours. 

In  vain  have  authors  on  both  sides  of  the  Pyrenees  tried  to  write 
down  Napier's  facts,  stern  things  and  sternly  expressed  in  the  rough-rider, 
double-shotted  style  of  a  hard-hitter  and  gooi  hater ;  and  be  his  political 
and  strategic  opinions  what  they  may,  his  stated /acfe  are  trustworthy ; 
for  the  Great  Duke,  who  liked  the  gallant  soldier  as  a  man,  readily 
afforded  him  any  information.  The  author,  although  anxious  to  be 
"'•npartial,  is  unaware  of  his  strong  under-current  of  democratic  preju- 


Spain.  xviii.  napier's  history.  81 

dices ;  his  ultra-advocacy  of  Soult,  and  idol-worship  of  Buonaparte,  not 
merely  as  a  general,  but  as  a  man  and  statesman,  justify  the  excellent 
criticism  of  Lord  Mahon,  that  this  work  is  by  far  the  best  French 
account  of  the  war.  If  Napier's  modem  Csesar  be  the  superhuman  perfec- 
tion of  civil  and  military  genius,  what  must  that  far  greater  Man  be 
who  cropped  all  his  blushing  honours  to  make  a  garland  for  his  own 
crest  ?  that  man  who  never  lost  a  gun,  who  never  had  a  sauve  qui  pent 
— ^no  Egypt,  Leipsig,  Eussia,  or  Belgium — one  whose  coup-de-grace, 
Waterloo,  "  settled  Boney,"  decided  the  fate  of  the  world,  and  gave  it 
peace  for  half  a  century — whose  Waterloo  is  an  epic  of  itself,  to  which 
Marengo,  Austerlitz,  and  Jena,  are  mere  glorioles  and  episodes,  full  of 
sound  and  fury,  and  signify  nothing  ? 

Colonel  Napier  deals  gently  ^vith  the  Duke's  opponents  in  the  field, 
treating  their  systematic  plunder,  &c.,  as  customs  of  war.  Soult,  who 
never  met  the  English  but  to  be  defeated,  is  in  fact  the  Achilles  of  his 
Iliad, <>f  which  the  ill-fated  Moore  is  the  "  Hector."  Meantime,  the  real 
**  Deusex  machina^^ — ^the  Duke — is  constantly  criticised ;  the  faults  he 
committed  are  set  right,  and  he  is  shown  how  much  better  the  campaign 
might  have  been  managed  in  Napier's  opinion ;  all  these  commentaries 
were  indeed  written  more  for  the  benefit  of  posterity  than  of  his  Grace, 
who  thus  wrote  to  Mr.  D.  Perceval,  June  6, 1835  : — "Notwithstanding 
my  great  respect  for  Colonel  Napier  and  his  work,  I  have  never  read  a 
line  of  it,  because  I  wished  to  avoid  being  led  into  a  literary  discussion, 
which  I  should  probably  find  more  troublesome  than  the  operations 
which  it  is  the  design  of  the  Colonel's  work  to  describe  and  record." 
Those  curious  to  see  the  critic  criticised,  may  turn  to  the  reviews 
of  Napier's  History,  written  in  the  'Quarterly'  by  Sir  George 
Murray,  a  brother  soldier,  and  one  who  fought  every  inch  of  the  cam- 
paign. 

The  recent  edition  of  Napier  (1863)  is  valuable,  from  the  crushing 
rejoinder  made  by  the  fearless  author  to  the  "inventions"  of  M. 
Thiers's  real  French  version.  A  soldier  like  Napier  may  indeed 
give  his  opinion  in  councils  of  war  and  battle;  and  no  Polybius 
ever  described  the  actual  conflict  with  more  spirit-stirring  touch; 
but  when  Monsieur  Thiers  lectures  a  Wellington  on  the  art  of  war, 
the  old  story  of  the  pedant  Phormio  and  Hannibal  at  once  occurs: 
— "  I  have  indeed  seen  many  dotafds  in  my  life,"  said  the  greatest 
general  of  antiquity,  "  but  none  so  bad  as  this." 

Napier's  new  edition  is  unfortunately  disfigured  by  multitudinous  mis- 
spellingB  and  mistakes  in  Spanish  names  and  orthography ;  a  reference  to 
the  commonest  map  and  dictionary  might  have  obviated  this  "  intre- 
pidity of  error,"  to  use  one  of  our  author's  criticisms  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott's  History.  In  any  future  edition  an  index  will  add  much  to  the 
utility  of  the  work. 

Dispatches  of  "  tJie  DvkeJ*^  This  is  the  true  English  book,  which 
with  the  companion  volumes  of  immortal  Nelson  posterity  will  never 
let  die :  this  is  the  antidote  and  corrective  of  all  libels,  and  the  final 
court  of  appeal  in  all  questions  of  real  facts.  Here  is  the  truth,  the 
whole  truth,  and  nothing  but  the  truth,  and  no  mistake ;  nothing  is 
extenuated,  nothing  is  set  down  in  malice.  Wellington,  bom,  bred,  and 
educated  like  a  gentleman,  could  not  lie,  like  revolutionary  upstart? 

B  3 


82  XVIII.   WELLINGTON  DISPATCHES.  Sect.  I. 

whose  low-birth  habits  no  subsequent  titles  could  eradicate.  La  casque 
sent  toujours  le  hareng.  In  this  country,  where  "  character  "  makes  or 
mars  a  man,  the  Duke  would  just  as  soon  have  thought  of  robbing  a 
church,  as  of  telling  a  lie.  Clear  in  his  "  great  office,"  he  never  alloyed  his 
glory  with  the  dross  of  pillage  or  peculation.  Honesty  was  his  policy ;  his 
shrine  of  immortality  was  approached  through  the  temple  of  virtue,  and 
he  trusted  to  a  grateful  country  to  provide  means  to  support  a  dignity 
which  he  had  carved  out  with  an  untarnished  sword.  A  conqueror  of 
conquerors,  he  scorned  to  bully,  and  was  too  really  powerful  to  exchange 
the  simplicity  of  greatness  for  bulletin  bombast,  the  hectoring  rhodo- 
montade  of  theatrical  clap-trap.  He  scouted  all  the  balderdash  of 
"  driving  leopards  into  the  sea,"  of  "  finishing  campaigns  with  thun- 
derbolts," and  similar  feats,  sooner  said  than  done.  He  was  too  just 
and  generous  to  deny  merit  to  a  brave  although  a  vanquished  opponent. 
Serene  and  confident  in  himself — a%tog  wv — ^he  pursued  his  career  of 
glory,  without  condescending  to  notice  the  mean  calumnies,  the  "  things 
invented  by  the  enemy,"  who  judged  of  others  by  themselves :  for 
wisdom  and  goodness  to  the  vile  seem  vile.  The  Duke's  writings  are 
the  exponent  of  the  man ;  the/  give  a  plain  unvarnished  tale,  with  no 
fine  writing  about  fine  fighting.  Every  line  bears  that  honest  English 
impress  Truth,  without  which  there  can  be  no  real  manliness  or 
greatness  ;  and  when  will  any  of  the  "  demigods"  of  the  Revolution  dare 
to  publish  his  private  correspondence  ?  The  Duke's  own  portraiture  is 
unprecedented,  and  the  moraX  exhibition  of  abnegation  of  self,  and  of 
that  first  and  paramount  duty,  tJie  serving  King  and  country,  is  more 
valuable  than  this  record  of  unparalleled  military  achievements,  itself 
one  more  enduring  than  bronze. 

Wellington,  the  real  editor  of  his  works,  read  all  in  proof,  and  cor- 
rected every  page  with  his  own  hand.  The  papers  were  set  up  in  type 
exactly  as  they  had  been  written.  But  now,  when  the  campaign  was 
concluded,  always  considerate  for  others,  he  struck  out  every  name  and 
sentence  which  might  give  pain,  and  to  such  an  extent,  that  matter 
sufficient  for  six  ^ditional  volumes  was  cancelled.  One  copy  alone 
exists  of  the  entire  work,  and  consists  of  the  identical  sheets  marked 
by  the  Duke's  revising  pen.  And  when  the  present  generation  is  past» 
when  personal  considerations  cease  to  operate,  and  history  can  fairly 
claim  its  entire  rights,  these  now  sealed-up  volumes  will  raise  their 
author  to  even  a  higher  pinnacle,  by  a  more  complete  display  of  all 
his  qualities,  both  as  a  man  and  as  a  general,  and  by  a  further  revela- 
tion of  the  inadequacy  of  the  means  by  which  ends  so  great  were 
accomplished.  Then,  as  he  remarked  himself,  "  When  my  papers  are 
read,  many  statues  will  have  to  be  taken  down." 

The  publication  of  this  code  of  the  "  Soldier  and  Gentleman,"  this 
encyclopaedia  of  military  and  administrative  science,  forced  om* 
opposition  to  admit  the  union  in  him,  of  all  those  high  qualities  which 
the  glorious  profession  of  arms  peculiarly  calls  forth.  In  these  un- 
affected documents,  they  who  run  must  read  his  love  for  King  and 
country,  his  spotless  honour  and  honesty,  exalted  sense  of  duty,  god- 
Mke  presence  of  mind,  self-relying  courage  in  danger,  serene  equanimity 
like  in  reverse  or  victory ;  his  lofty  contempt  of  calumniators — ^his 

^f-denial  and  scrupulous  consideration  of  others —his  sagacity  and 


Spam,  XIX.  HINTS  to  book  collectors.  83 

foretbonglit — ^his  unsparing,  intense  labour  of  body  and  mind — ^last, 
not  least,  his  modesty  and  simplicity. 

The  nervous,  perspicuous,  idiomatic  style  of  these  despatches,  drawn 
from  deep  wells  of  pure  Anglo-Saxon  undefiied,  is  no  less  truly  English 
in  word  than  in  thought ;  they  tell  their  own  story,  with  the  una- 
dorned eloquence  of  real  patriotism.  The  iron  energy  of  his  sword 
passed,  like  Caesar*s,  into  his  didactic  pen,  and  he  used  either  instrument 
with  equal  facility,  to  turn  his  antagonists  to  flight  or  shame.  He  fought 
as  he  wrote,  and  so  he  spoke.  Hyperbolical  only  in  the  defence  of 
comrades,  he  knew  how  cheering  the  note  of  praise  is  to  the  distant  soldier 
fighting  for  his  King,  and  how  depressing  the  cold  blast  of  a  factious 
parliamentary  Op])Osition.  He  was  no  Athenian  sophist  skilled  in  logo- 
machies— no  practised  debater,  no  intellectual  gladiator ;  he  just  said 
the  right  thing  at  the  right  time,  constantly  expressing  the  most  in  the 
fewest  words,  and  his  character  carried  conviction.  All  understood  his 
blimt  discourse — soldier-like,  as  if  giving  the  word  of  command  ;  and 
few  took  offence  at  his  honest  home-thrusts,  or  could  resist  his  sledge- 
hammer blows  on  the  naiPs  head.  He  used  his  words  to  explain,  not 
conceal  his  thoughts ;  not  a  few  terse  phrases  have  passed  into  pro- 
verbs already — but  a  quiver  might  be  filled  with  the  pithy,  pointed 
shafts  shot  from  his  mind,  that  arsenal  of  sound  judgment,  wide  expe- 
rience, and  conmion  sense — mens  sana  in  corpore  sano. 

4.   HISCELLANEOTJS  BOOKS. 

The  Duke's  Dispatches,  so  far  as  they  go,  give  the  best  idea  of  Spain 
and  Spaniards,  and  of  a  true  Spanish  Handbook  he  must  form  the  hero ; 
and  many  are  the  sites  which,  gilded  by  his  name  and  fame,  stir  up 
the  inner  heart  of  his  countrymen.  The  other  works,  native  and  foreign, 
which  treat  on  local  and  general  subjects,  will  be  pointed  out  in  their  pro- 
per places,  and  form  a  new  branch  of  literature,  well  worth  the  considera- 
tion of  the  traveller  and  bibliophile.  The  Btbliotheca  Hispana  Vetus  et 
Nova,  by  Nicolas  Antonio,  4  vols,  folio,  Mad.,  1788,  and  edited  by  the 
learned  Bayer ;  although  the  arrangement  is  very  inartificial  and  confused, 
it  is  one  of  the  best  bibliographical  works  of  Spain.  The  lover  of  black 
letter  and  of  books  printed  in  Spain  before  1500,  cannot  dispense  widi 
the  Typographia  EapandULy  Francisco  Mendez,  4to.,  Mad.,  1796.  The 
Index  Expurg<xt<mus,  published  at  Madrid  by  the  orthodox  Church,  is 
also  an  excellent  vade  mecum  and  guide  to  all  about  to  form  a  really 
good  library,  as  the  priests,  deadly  foes  to  mind,  carefully  inserted  every 
book  likely  to  furnish  useful  and  entertaining  knowledge. 

XIX. — ^HiNTS  TO  Book  Collectobs. 

A  word  to  our  beloved  brethren  bibliophiles.  Books  in  Spain  have 
always  been  both  scarce  and  dear,  for  where  there  are  few  purchasers, 
prices  must  be  high  to  remimerate  the  publisher  or  importer.  The 
public  libraries  of  Spain  are  few  and  imperfect.  Those  recently  formed 
in  provincial  towns  consist  of  brands  rescued  from  the  suppressed 
convents,  and  chiefly  relate  to  monastic  and  legendary  lore.  Every 
collection  or  library,  again,  in  Spain  is  subject  to  dilapidations  of 
various  kinds.    There  is  seldom  any  catalogue,  and,  should  one  exist 


34  XIX.  SPANISH  BOOKS.  Spain. 

it  is  Boon  mislaid.  None  then  can  check  directors  and  Empleados,  who 
pick  out  the  plums,  exchange  imperfect  copies  for  the  good  ones,  and 
thus  men,  beggars  by  birth,  end  with  fine  galleries  and  libraries.  Seiior 
Conde  for  example.     Quis  custodes,  custodiat  ? 

The  works  mentioned  in  this  Handbook,  and  principally  the  topo- 
graphical, have  become  rarer  and  dearer  since  the  publication,  as  more 
collectors  have  been  put  on  the  scent  in  England,  and  in  France  also,  as 
Monsieur  Maison,  in  his  pirated  Guide  du  Voyageur,  appropriated  all 
our  bibliographical  information,  in  common  with  everything  else  that 
suited  the  French  market.  Most  of  the  Spanish  classic  authors  have 
been  reprinted  in  Paris  by  the  bookseller  Baudry,  under  the  direction 
of  Senor  Ochoa,  one  not  over-qualified  for  the  difficult  task. 

The  lighter  literature  of  Spain  of  the  Picaresque,  Salas  Barbadillo 
class,  Los  libros  de  entretenimiento,  are  very  rare.  Few  copies  were 
printed  originally,  and  they  have  either  perished  in  the  use  of  thumbs 
at  home,  or  were  exported  to  Mexico  in  the  reign  of  (Charles  II.,  when 
they  met  with  no  sale  at  home  from  mystical  books  being  all  the  fashion. 
Many  more  were  burnt  by  the  priests,  who,  on  the  death  of  collectors, 
frightened  the  widows  and  women  (like  Don  Quixote's  neice)  with  the 
idea  of  their  sensual,  Satanic,  and  heretical  tendency. 

In  the  rare  instances  where  books  prohibited  by  the  Inquisition  were 
permitted,  they  were  kept  caged  like  wild  beasts  under  lock  and  key,  and 
those  semi-permitted  were  first  emasculated,  the  best  passages  borrado  or 
inked  over  by  the  Inquisition,  who  watched  with  eye  of  Argus  and 
hand  of  harpy  over  the  smallest  expression  of  truth,  or  the  slightest 
hint  that  might  set  human  intellect  on  thinking.  The  males  of  the  Sp. 
masses  to  this  day  read  little  but  their  old  ballads,  and  the  Cid  is  still 
their  hero ;  while  the  females  love  lives  of  saints,  monkish  miracles,  and 
such  like  ohras  de  devotion  which  their  Church  substitutes  for  the  Bible. 

The  commonest  editions  of  the  classics  are  hardly  to  be  had.  The 
Spaniard  never  was  much  of  a  critic  or  learned  annotator ;  and  in 
general  there  are  very  few  of  his  books  by  which  a  foreigner,  accus- 
tomed to  better  works  on  the  same  subjects,  will  be  much  benefited  or 
amused.  Spanish  literature,  depressed  and  tinctured  by  the  Inquisition, 
was  a  creature  of  accident,  and  good  productions  occurred  only  like 
palms  in  the  desert;  it  never  exercised  a  connected  influence  on 
national  civilization,  excepting  its  chronicles  and  ballads — the  chap, 
the  household  books  of  the  people,  and  the  delight  of  the  vulgar 
to  this  day,  consist  much  of  this  poetry  of  national  heroism,  which 
the  learned  despised,  while  vast  indeed  was  the  proportion  dedi- 
cated to  scholastic  theology,  monkish  legends,  and  polemical  research, 
and  the  cloister  was  the  best  customer.  In  general  there  is  a  want  of 
sound  critical  judgment,  of  bold,  searching,  truth-gi-appling  philosophy. 
The  Spaniards  themselves  are  aware  of  this  comparative  inferiority, 
although  none  dared,  for  fear  of  the  furnace,  to  name  the  real  cause. 
Half  their  works  on  literature  take  the  explanatory  and  apologetical 
tone.  Since  the  recent  changes,  matters  have  had  a  tendency  to  im- 
prove, but  still  theology,  law,  and  medicine,  form  the  chief  subjects. 
There  are  very  few  classical  works  beyond  mere  school-books,  and  those 
mostly  in  Latin.     Greek,  indeed,  was  never  much  known  in  Spain ; 

"in  learned  men  quoted  from  Latin  translations,  and,  when  they  used 


Spain,  '     XIX.  Spanish  booksellers.  85 

the  Greek  word,  often  printed  it  in  Roman  letters.  Greek  books  were 
either  printed  in  Flanders  or  procured  from  Italy,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
its  type  in  Spain.  The  Latin  Vulgate,  in  fact,  superseded  the  Greek 
Testament.  German  is  altogether  modem  Greek  to  Spaniards.  There 
is  a  sprinkling  of  English  works,  grammars,  *  Vicars  of  Wakefield,'  and 
*  Buchan's  Domestic  Medicine.'  *  Valter  Scott,'  double  done  into  Spanish 
from  the  French,  fares  no  better  than  the  Bard  of  Avon — *  Chespire,  que 
les  Anglais  ^crivent  Schakspir ;'  who,  travestied  "  en  Fran<;ais,"  is  like 
Niagara  passed  through  a  jelly-bag.  Eeal  French  books  are  more  common, 
and  especially  those  which  treat  on  medical,  chemical,  and  mechanical 
subjects ;  and  as  Spain  imports  her  literature  and  paletots  from  Paris, 
one  of  her  worst  misfortunes  is  that  she  is  mistaught  what  is  going  on  in 
intellectual  Germany  and  practical  England,  through  the  unfair,  garbled, 
and  inaccurate  alembic  of  French  translation.  This  habit  of  relying  on 
other  nations  for  original  works  on  science  has  given  a  timidity  to 
Spanish  authors,  as  it  is  easier  to  translate  and  borrow  than  to  invent. 
They  distnist  each  other's  compositions  as  much  as  they  do  each  other's 
word,  and  turn  readily  to  a  foreign  book,  in  spite  of  all  their  dislike  to 
foreigners,  which  is  more  against  persons  than  things.  The  bulk  of 
Spaniards  would  as  soon  think  of  having  a  cellar  as  a  library,  and  gene- 
rally speaking  the  trash  offered  for  sale  has  few  attractions  for  a 
foreigner.  A  "  reading  public "  in  Spain,  long  among  the  things 
wanting  out  of  the  Church,is  still  in  an  infant  state,  and  is  still  rocked  in 
the  cradle  of  Liceos,  Casinos,  and  other  copies  of  trans- Pyrenaean  club 
civilization.  Most  of  the  curious  private  Spanish  libraries  were  dispersed 
during  the  war  of  independence,  when  those  which  were  not  stolen  by 
the  Junots,  made  into  cartridges  by  the  Soults  and  Suchets,  or  burnt 
to  heat  their  camp-kettles,  escaped  to  England,  and  even  the  best  books  of 
these  are  seldom  in  good  condition ;  the  copies  are  torn,  worm-eaten, 
stained,  and  imperfect,  for  the  Spaniards,  like  the  Orientals,  never  were 
collectors  or  conservators,  nor  had  a  real  keen  relish  or  perception 
of  matters  of  taste  and  intellectual  enjoyment ;  they  axe  to  modern 
nations  what  the  old  Romans  were  to  the  Greeks — soldiers,  conquerors, 
and  colonists,  rather  than  cultivators  of  elegance,  art,  fancy,  and 
aesthetic  enjoyments.  The  collector  of  rare  and  good  books  may  rest 
assured  that  a  better  and  cheaper  Spanish  library  is  to  be  formed 
in  one  month  in  London  than  in  one  year  in  Spain.  The  native 
bookseller,  sui  generis,  and  one  of  the  true  Cosas  de  Espaiiay  is  indeed 
a  queer,  uncomfortable  creature  for  an  eager  English  collector  to  fall 
foul  of.  He  sets  ensconced  among  his  parchment-bound  wares,  more 
indifferent  than  a  Turk.  His  delight  is  to  twaddle  with  a  few  cigaresque 
clergymen  and  monks  (when  there  were  monks) ;  and  in  fact  they  were 
almost  the  only  purchasers.  He  acts  as  if  he  were  the  author,  or  the  col- 
lector, not  the  vendor  of  his  books.  He  scarcely  notices  the  entrance  of 
a  stranger  ;  neither  knows  what  books  he  has  got  or  what  he  has  not ; 
he  has  no  catalogue,  and  will  scarcely  reach  out  his  arm  to  take  down 
any  volume  which  is  pointed  out ;  he  never  has  anything  which  is  pub- 
.  iished  by  another  bookseller,  and  will  not  send  and  get  it  for  you,  nor 
always  even  tell  you  where  it  may  be  procured.  As  for  gaining  the 
trade  allowance  by  going  himself  for  a  book,  he  would  not  stir  if  it 
were  twenty-five  hundred  instead  of  twenty-five  per  cent.    Becent  trp 


86  XX,  HINTS  TO  AUTHOES.       '  Sect.  I^ 

Tellers  report  that  now-a-days  the  genus  Biblwpolum  Ihericum  is  get- 
ting a  trifle  sharper.  In  the  days  of  Ferdinand  VII.,  whenever  we- 
were  young  enough  to  hint  at  the  unreasonable  proposition  of  begging^ 
one  of  them  to  get  us  any  book,  the  certain  rejoinder  was,  "  Ah  que !  1 
must  mind  my  shop ;  you  have  nothing  else  to  do  but  run  up  and 
down  streets  "—^en^fo  qiie  gtuxrdar  la  tienda,  V,  estd  corriendo  las 
calles.  When  one  of  them  happens  not  to  be  receiving  visitors,  and,, 
for  want  of  anything  better,  will  attend  to  a  customer,  if  you  ask  him 
for  any  particular  work — say  Caro's  *  Antiquities  of  Seville,*  he  will 
answer,  "  Veremos — Call  again  in  a  day  or  two."  When  you  re- 
turn the  third  or  fourth  time,  he  will  hand  you  Pedraza's  *  Antiquities 
of  Granada.'  It  is  in  vain  to  remonstrate,  as  he  will  reply,  "  No  le 
hace,  lo  mismo  tiene,  son  siempre  antigiiedades " — "  What  does  it 
signify  ?  it  is  the  same  thing,  both  are  antiquities."  If  you  ask  for 
a  particular  history,  ten  to  one  he  will  give  you  a  poem,  and  say, 
**  This  is  thought  to  be  an  excellent  book."  A  book  is  a  book,  and  you 
cannot  drive  him  from  that.  If  you  do  not  admit  the  proposition,  he- 
will  say,  "  Why,  an  Englishman  bought  a  copy  of  it  from  me  five- 
years  ago."  He  cannot  understand  how  you  can  resist  following  the 
example  of  Apatsano — a  fellow-countryman.  If  he  is  in  good  humour, 
and  you  have  won  his  heart  by  a  reasonable  waste  of  time  in  gossiping 
or  cigarising,  he  will  take  down  some  book,  and,  just  as  he  is  going  to- 
ofiFer  it  you,  say,  "  Ah  I  but  you  do  not  understand  Spanish,"  which  is 
a  common  notion  among  Spaniards,  who,  like^the  Moors,  seldom  them- 
selves understand  any  language  but  their  own ;  and  this,  although,  as 
you  flatter  yourself,  you  have  been  giving  him  half  an  hour's  proof  to 
the  contrary ;  then,  by  way  of  making  amends,  he  will  produce  some 
English  grammar  or  French  dictionary,  which,  being  unintelligible  to 
him,  he  concludes  must  be  particularly  useful  to  a  foreigner,  whose 
vernacular  they  are.  An  odd  volume  of  Kousseau  or  Voltaire  used  to 
be  produced  with  the  air  of  a  conspirator,  when  the  dealer  felt  sure 
that  his  customer  was  a  safe  person,  and  with  as  much  self-triumph  aa 
if  it  had  been  a  Tirante  lo  Blanc  ;  and,  in  fact,  in  the  good  old  times, 
selling  such  books  was  as  dangerous  as  fireworks — a  spark  might  blow 
up  shop  and  keeper.  His  dismay  at  the  contemptuous  bah  I  with 
which  these  tomes  of  forbidden  knowledge  were  rejected  could  only  be 
depicted  by  Hogarth. 


XX. — Hints  to  Authobs. 

The  necessity  of  a  third  edition  of  this  Ecmdhook — con  perdan  sea 
dicho  —  is  one  proof  that  %l  n^y  a  plus  de  Pyrenees,  so  far  as  they 
existed  to  bar  out  our  nomade  travellers.  Nor  has  the  volume  been 
altogether  useless  to  many,  who  think  a  visit  to  Spain  entails  the  ne- 
cessity of  "  writing  a  book,"  just  as  if  it  were  to  Timbuctoo.  The 
missionaries  from  Albemarle  Street,  the  first  in  many  a  field,  have  been 
best  served,  and  if  sorne  of  the  substance  printed  by  their  followers  has 
been  anticipated  by  them,  the  public  may  not  necessarily  be  the  loser ; 
those  who  travel  and  write  the  quickest,  who  indite  ^^Bevelatums''*  from 

^  tops  of  dillys,  and  "  Olimpses^'  from  the  decks  of  steamers,  may 


Spain.  XX.  Spanish  sensitive^jess.  8T 

not  always  benefit  mankind  by  discussing  matters  they  do  not  quite 
understand,  whether  original  or  appropriated. 

Meantime,  to  pillage  the  things  of  Spain,  in  peace  as  well  as  war,  seems 
to  be  considered  fair  game  by  some  across  the  channel.  Thus  one  Mon- 
sieur Maison  has  larded  his  second  edition  of  his  own  meagre  Guide  de 
Voyageurs  en  Espoffne,  Paris,  1851,  by  wholesale  piratical  appropriatioa 
of  this  Handbook,  emasculated,  indeed,  by  much  suppression  of  the 
truth  as  regards  the  Bonapartist  invasion.  It  is  seldom  that  French 
travellers  have  done  justice  to  their  neighbour.  Light,  clever,  and  amus- 
ing, they  have  chiefly  skimmed  the  surface,  writing  down  on  their 
tablets  the  scum  that  floats  up ;  thus,  from  their  Voyage  de  Figaro  down 
to  Dumas,  they  have  indulged  in  a  travestie,  quizzing  tone,  to  the  un- 
speakable wrath  of  Spaniards,  who,  taking  the  syllabubs  seriously, 
employ  ponderous  authors  to  upset  them  instead  of  swallowing  the 
joke  ;  so  Marliani  was  set  on  Thiers,  to  refute  his  version  of  Trafalgar^ 
and  a  heavier  treatise  is  concocting  to  rebut  his  bulletin  of  Bailen. 

The  grave  and  sensitive  Castilians  are,  and  with  justice,  pained  by 
hasty  glances  bestowed  by  the  barbarian  eye  on  only  that  half  of  the 
subject,  of  which  they  are  most  ashamed,  and  consider  the  least  worth 
notice ;  this  prying  into  the  nakedness  of  their  land  and  exposing  it 
afterwards,  has  increased  their  dislike  towards  the  impertinente  curioso. 
They  well  know  and  deeply  feel  their  country's  decline  ;  but  like  poor 
gentlefolks,  who  have  nothing  but  the  past  to  be  proud  of,  are  anxious 
to  keep  these  family  secrets  concealed,  even  from  themselves.  This 
dread  of  being  shown  up  sharpens  their  inherent  suspicions,  when 
strangers  wish  to  examine  into  their  ill-provided  arsenals,  and  the  beg- 
garly account  of  their  empty-box  institutions ,  just  as  Bums  was  scared 
even  by  the  honest  antiquarian  Grose — 

A  duel's  amang  ye,  takiii'  notes. 

At  the  same  time,  when  Spaniards  are  once  satisfied  that  no  harm  is  in- 
tended in  sketching,  &c.,  no  people  can  be  more  civil  in  ofifering  assistance 
of  every  kind,  especially  the  lower  classes,  who  gaze  at  the,  to  them,  magi- 
cal performance  with  wonder :  the  higher  classes  seldom  take  any  notice, 
partly  from  courtesy  and  much  from  the  nil  admirari  principle  of 
Orientals,  which  conceals  both  inferiority  and  ignorance.  Let  no 
author  imagine  that  the  fairest  account  of  Spain  as  she  is,  setting  down 
nought  in  malice,  can  content  a  Spaniard;  morbidly  sensitive  and 
touchy,  as  the  worst  class  of  Americans,  both  are  afflicted  with  the 
notion  that  all  the  world,  who  are  never  troubling  their  heads  about 
them,  are  thinking  of  nothing  else,  and  joined  in  one  common  conspi- 
racy, based  in  envy,  jealousy,  or  ignorance :  "  you  don't  understand  us, 
I  guess."  He  considers  it  no  proof  either  of  goodness  of  breeding,  heart, 
or  intellect,  to  be  searching  for  blemishes  rather  than  excellences,  for 
toadstools  rather  than  violets,  and  despises  those  curmudgeon  smell- 
funguses  who  find  all  a  wilderness  from  La  Mancha  to  Castile — who  see 
motes  rather  than  beams  in  the  brightest  eyes  of  Andalucia.  Many 
blots  exist,  indeed,  and  Spain  and  Spaniards  have  much  too  long  been 
taken  at  tbeir  own  magniloquent  and  magnificent  valuation.  How 
shortlived  this  imix)sing  kingdom's  real  greatness  I  begun  under  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  and  waning  even  under  Philip  II.    How  much  war 


88 


XXI.   ford's  SPANISH  WORKS. 


Sefct.  I. 


owing  to  accident  and  externals — to  the  possession  by  Charles  V.  of  the 
New  World,  of  Italy,  the  Low  Countries,  and  Germany !  How  soon, 
as  these  dropped  off  and  Spain  was  left  by  herself,  did  poverty  and 
weakness,  her  normal  and  present  condition,  return !  After  years  of 
systematic  national  self-puffing,  an  honest  Handbook,  we  repeat,  is 
bound  like  an  appraiser,  to  do  his  duty  to  his  employer,  yet  the  whole 
unpalatable  truths  told  here  in  strict  confidence,  need  not  be  repeated 
to  the  thin-skinned  natives,  by  those  who  consult  and  put  faith  in  a 
Red  Murray ;  and  assuredly  the  Peninsula  affords  room  for  other  and 
more  pleasant  topics,  and  many  and  sweet  are  the  flowers  to  be  yet 
gathered. 

Those  kind  readers  who  do  the  author  of  this  Handbook  the  honour 
of  trusting  to  his  lucubrations  on  the  things  of  Spain,  will  find  several 
other  matters  discussed  at  more  length  in  his  first  edition  of  this 
work,  1845,  out  indeed  of  print,  but  of  which  copies  occasionally  may 
be  obtained  of  Mr.  Lee,  440,  West  Strand ;  and  also  in  his 

Historical  Inquiry  of  the  Unchangeable  Character  of  a  War  in 

Spain.     Murray.     1837. 

Gathering  in  Spain.     Murray.     1846. 

On  Cob  Walls — the  Moorish  and  Arabic)  ^^     «x   t»        xr 

yr    yj^  >yuart.  Kev,,  Wo.  cxvi. 

The  Theatre  of  Spain 

Banditti     . 

Heraldry,  Genealogy,  Grandees. 

Bull  Fights 

Ronda  and  Granada 

The  Age  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella 

Architecture  of  Spain 

Spanish  Ladies*    Love — The    sack  of) 

Cadiz  by  l^ord  Essex | 

The  Paintings  of  Spain 

The  Literature  of  Spain 

ijharles  V.  at  Yuste 

Spain  in  1466 — the  Bohemian  Embassy 
Apsley  House — The  Duke  .... 
Spanish  Ballads    ....... 

Bible  in  Spain 

Larpent's  Journal  in  Spain  .... 

Gipsies  of  Spain Brit,  and  For.  Rev.,  No.  xxvi. 

Ballads  of  Spain Westminster  Rev.,  No.  Ixv. 

Biography  of  Velazquez  .     .     .      Penny  Cyclopaedia. 
Campaigns  of  Wellington      .     •      Illustrated.    Brettell.     1852. 
Bull  Fights  illustrated     .     .     .      Hogarth.     1852. 


do. 

do. 

cxvii. 

do. 

do. 

cxxii. 

do. 

do. 

cxxiii. 

do. 

do. 

cxxiv. 

do. 

do. 

cxxvi. 

do. 

do. 

cxxvii. 

do. 

do. 

cliv. 

'  do. 

do. 

clvi. 

do. 

do. 

clxv. 

do. 

do. 

dxxiv. 

do. 

do. 

clxxxiii^ 

do. 

do. 

clxxx. 

do. 

do. 

dxxxiv. 

Edin. 

Rev., 

No.  cxlvi. 

do. 

do. 

civ. 

do. 

do. 

clxxxix. 

XXI. — The  BuLL-FianT. 

The  bull-fight,  say  what  moralists  may,  is  the  sight  in  Spain,  and 
to  see  one  certainly  forms  the  first  object  of  all  the  younger  portion  of 
travellers  from  every  nation  ;  and  as  not  to  understand  after  some  sort  the 
order  of  the  course,  the  salient  features,  and  the  language  of  the  "  ring," 


Spain.  XXI.   THE  BULL-FIGHT.  89 

argues  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives  an  entire  want  of  liberal  education, 
no  Handbook  for  Spain  can  be  complete  without  some  elementary  hints 
as  to  **  what  to  observe,*^  and  what  to  say  in  the  arena ;  there  the  past  is 
linked  with  the  present,  and  Spanish  nationality  is  revealed,  and  no  mis- 
take, for  trans-Pyrenean  civilization  has  not  yet  invaded  this  sacred  spot. 
The  bull-fight,  or,  to  speak  correctly,  the  Bull-Feast,  Fiesta  de  Toros,  is  a 
modern  sport,  and  never  mentioned  in  any  authors  of  antiquity.  Bulls 
were  killed  in  ancient  amphitheatres,  but  the  present  modus  operandi  is 
modern,  and,  however  based  on  Roman  institutions,  is  indubitably  a 
thing  devised  by  the  Moors  of  Spain,  for  those  in  Africa  have  neither 
the  sport,  the  ring,  nor  the  recollection.  The  principle  is  the  exhibition 
of  horsemanship,  courage,  and  dexterity  with  the  lance,  which  consti- 
tuted the  favourite  accomplishments  of  the  children  of  the  desert.  In 
the  early  bull-fight,  the  animal  was  attacked  by  gentlemen  armed  only 
with  the  Rejon,  a  short  projectile  spear  about  four  feet  long.  This,  the 
pQum  of  the  Romans,  was  taken  from  the  original  Iberian  spear,  the 
Sparus  of  Sil.  Ital.  (viii.  523),  the  Lancea  of  Livy  (xxxiv.  15),  the 
oKovriov  of  Strabo  (iii.  150),  and  is  seen  in  the  hands  of  the  horsemen  of 
the  old  Iberian-Romano  coinage.  To  be  a  good  rider  and  lancer  was 
essential  to  the  Spanish  CahcSlero,  This  origiiial  form  of  bull-fight, 
now  only  given  on  grand  occasions,  is  called  a  Fiesta  real.  Such  a  one 
Philip  IV.  exhibited  on  the  Plaza  Mayor  of  Madrid  before  our  Charles  I. ; 
and  Ferdinand  VII.  another  in  1833,  as  the  ratification  of  the  Juramento, 
the  swearing  allegiance  ^o  Isabel  II.  (See  our  paper  Quar.  Rev.,  cxxiv. 
305.) 

These  Fiestas  Bedles  form  the  coronation  ceremonial  of  Spain,  and  the* 
CabaUeros  mi  Plaza  represent  our  champions.  Bulls  were  killed,  but 
no  beef  eaten ;  as  a  banquet  was  never  a  thing  of  no-dinner-giving  Iberia 
"  NuUus  in  festos  dies  epularum  apparatus  "  (Justin,  xliv.  2). 

The  final  conquest  of  the  Moors,  and  the  subsequent  cessation  of  the 
border  chivalrous  habits  of  Spaniards,  and  especially  the  accession  of 
Philip  v.,  which  deluged  the  Peninsula  with  Frenchmen,  proved  fatal 
to  this  ancient  usage  of  Spain.  The  monkey-puppies  of  Paris  pro- 
nounced the  Spanish  bulls,  and  those  who  baited  them,  to  be  brutes  and 
barbarous.  The  spectacle,  which  had  withstood  the  influence  of  Isabella 
the  Catholic,  and  had  beaten  the  Pope's  bulls,  bowed  before  the  despotism 
of  fashion.  But  while  the  periwigged  courtiers  deserted  the  arena  on 
which  the  royal  eye  of  Philip  V.,  who  only  wanted  a  wife  and  a  mass-book, 
looked  coldly,  the  sturdy  lower  classes,  foes  to  foreign  innovation,  clung  all 
the  closer  to  the  pastime  of  their  forefathers ;  by  becoming,  however, 
their  game,  instead  of  that  of  gentlemen,  it  was  stripped  of  its  chivalrous 
character,  and  degenerated  into  the  vulgar  butchery  of  low  mercenary 
bull-fighters,  just  as  our  rings  and  tournaments  of  chivalry,  did  into 
those  of  ruffian  pugilists. 

The  Spanish  bulls  have  been  immemorially  famous.  Hercules,  that 
renowned  cattle-fancier,  was  lured  into  Spain  by  the  lowing  of  the  herds 
of  Geryon — Oiron, — ^the  ancestor  (se  dice)  of  the  Duque  de  Osuna. 
The  best  bulls  in  Andalucia  are  bred  by  Cabrera  at  IJtrera,  in  the 
identical  pastures  where  Geryon's  herds  were  pastured  and  "lifted  "  by  the 
<lemigod,  whence,  according  to  Strabo  (iii.  169),  they  were  obliged,  after 
fifty  days'  feeding,  to  be  driven  off  from  fear  of  bursting  from  fat.     The 


90  XXI.   THE  BULL-FIGHT.  Sect.  I^ 

age  of  lean  kine  has  succeeded.  Notwithstanding  that  Spaniards  assert 
that  their  bulls  are  braver  than  all  other  bulls,  because  Spaniards,  who 
are  destined  to  kill  and  eat  them,  are  braver  than  all  other  mortal  men, 
they  (the  bulls)  are  far  inferior  in  weight  and  power  to  those  bred  and 
fed  by  John  Bull ;  albeit,  the  latter  are  not  so  fierce  and  active,  from  not 
being  raised  in  such  wild  and  unenclosed  countries.  Some  of  the  finest 
Castilian  bulls  are  bred  on  the  Jarama,  near  Aranjuez,  by  the  Duque 
de  Yeraguas,  a  great  torero  and  descendant  of  Columbus,  but  one  who 
has  not  yet  discovered  a  new  world.  To  our  graziers  these  bulls  would 
seem  poor  brutes,  and  gain  few  prizes  at  "  the  Show,"  being  raised  for 
baiting  not  breeding.  We  are  not  going  to  describe  a  bull-fight ;  the 
traveller  will  see  it.  Our  task  is  to  put  him  in  possession  of  some  of 
the  technical  rules  and  terms  of  art,  which  will  enable  him  to  pass  his 
judgment  on  the  scene  as  becomes  a  true  amateur,  un  qficumado.  This 
term  qficion  is  the  origin  of  our  "  fancy." 

Bull-fights  are  extremely  expensive,  costing  from  300Z.  to  4001,  a 
time ;  accordingly,  out  of  the  chief  capitals  and  Andalucia,  they  are 
only  got  up  now  and  then,  on  great  church  festivals  and  holy  days  of 
saints,  royal  and  public  rejoicings.  As  Andalucia  is  the  head  quarters 
of  the  ring,  and  Seville  the  capital,  the  alma  mater  of  the  tauromachists 
of  the  Peninsula,  the  necessity  of  sending  to  a  distance  for  artists  and 
animals  increases  the  expense.  The  prices  of  admittance,  compared  to 
the  wages  of  labour  in  Spain,  are  very  high. 

Kor  are  all  bulls  fit  for  the  plaza:  only  the  noblest  and  bravest 
animals  are  selected.  The  first  trial  is  the  Eerradura,  "  Ferradura :  k 
ferro,"  the  branding  with  hot  iron.  The  one-year-old  calf  bulls  are 
charged  by  the  conocedor,  the  herdsman,  with  his  garrochay  the  real 
Thessalian  goad,  ofnn^.  Those  which  flinch  are  thrown  down  and  con- 
verted into  oxen.  The  kings  of  Spain,  from  Philip  IV.  to  Ferdinand  VII,» 
attended  by  their  delicate  queens  and  maids  of  honour,  invariably  wit- 
nessed this  operation  at  Aranjuez !  The  bulls  which  pass  this  "  little 
go^^  the  Novillos,  are  in  due  time  again  tested  by  being  baited  with 
tipped  horns,  emholados ;  but,  since  they  are  not  killed,  this  pastime,  as 
based  on  fiction  and  impotent  in  conclusion,  is  despised  by  the  true  torero 
and  aficionado,  who  aspire  only  to  be  in  at  the  death,  at  toros  de  mtierte^ 
The  sight  of  the  bull-calf  is  amusing,  from  the  struggle  between  him 
and  his  majesty  the  mob ;  nor  is  there  any  of  the  blo<S  and  wounds  by  . 
which  delicate  strangers  are  offended,  as  at  the  full-grown  fight.  Bull- 
baiting  in  any  shape  is  irresistible  to  the  lower  classes  of  Spaniards, 
who  disregard  injuries  done  to  their  bodies,  and,  what  is  far  worse,  t<> 
their  cloaks.  The  hostility  to  the  bull,  his  second  nature,  grows  with 
his  growth.  The  very  children  play  at  toro,  just  as  ours  do  at  leap- 
frog, when  one  represents  the  bull,  who  is  killed  secundttm  artem.  Few 
grown-up  Spaniards,  when  on  a  journey,  can  pass  a  bull  (or  hardly  even 
a  cow)  without  bullying  and  insulting  him,  by  waving  their  cloaks  in 
the  defiance  of  d  capeo.  As  bull-fights  cost  so  much,  the  smaller  towns- 
indulge  ODly  in  mock-turtle,  in  the  noviUos  and  emholados.  In  the 
mountain  towns  few  bulls,  or  even  oxen,  are  brought  in  for  slaughter 
without  first  being  baited  through  the  streets.  They  are  held  by  a  long 
rope,  toros  de  euerda,  de  gaUumho,  Ferd.  VII.,  at  the  instigation  of  the 
Conde  de  Estrella,  and  of  Don  Jos^  Manuel  de  Arjona,  founded  a  tauro- 


Spain.  XXI.  the  bull-fight.  9i 

machian  university,  a  BvU-ford,  at  Seville,   near  the  matadero,  or- 
slaughter-bouse,  which  long  had  been  known  by  the  cant  term  of  el 
coUgio.     The  inscription  over  the  portal  ran  thus  ; — Ferdinando  VII, ,. 
FiOf  Feliz,  Bestaurador,  para  la  ensenanza  preservadora  de  la  Escuda  de 
Tauromachia:  Ferd.  VII.,  the  pious,  fortunate,  and  restored,  for  the- 
jpr€8ervative  teaching  of  the  Tauromachian  School.    In  fact,  bread  and 
bulls,  pan  y  toroSy  the  Spanish  cry,  is  but  the  echo  of  the  Roman  Panem 
et  Circenses,     The  pupils  were  taught  by  retired  bull-fighters,  the 
counterpart  of  the  lanistce  of  antiquity.     Candida  and  Bomero  were  the 
first  professors :  these  tauromachian  heroes  had  each  in  their  day  kill^ 
their  hecatombs,  and,  like  the  brother-lords  Eldon  and  Stowell,  may  be 
said  to  have  fixed  the  practice  and  equity  of  their  arenas  on  sound 
principles  which  never  will  be  upset. 

The  profits  of  the  bull-fight  are  usually  destined  for  the  support  of 
hospitals,  and,  certainly,  the  fever  and  the  frays  subsequent  to  the  show, 
provide  both  patients  and  funds.  The  Plaza  is  usually  under  the 
superintendance  of  a  society  of  noblemen  and  gentlemen — arenas  per- 
petui  oomites.  These  corporations  are  called  Maestranzas,  and  were 
instituted  in  1562,  by  Philip  II.,  in  the  hope  of  improving  the  breed  of 
Spanish  horses  and  men  at  arms.  The  king  is  always  the  Eermano 
mayor,  or  elder  brother.  These  tauromaquian  brotherhoods  were  con- 
fined to  four  cities,  viz.  Honda,  Seville,  Granada,  and  Valencia,  to  which 
Zaragoza  was  added  by  Ferdinand  VII.,  the  only  reward  it  ever  obtained 
for  its  heroic  defence  agai  nst  the  invaders.  The  members,  or  TMiestranteSy . 
of  each  city  are  distinguished  by  the  colour  of  their  uniforms :  as  they 
must  all  be  of  gentle  blood.  Hidalgos^  and  are  entitled  to  wear  a  gaudy 
costume,  the  person-decorating  honour  is  much  sought  for. 

The  day  appointed  for  the  bull-feast  is  announced  by  placards  of  all 
colours.  We  omit  to  notice  their  contents,  as  the  traveller  will  sec 
them  on  every  wall. 

The  first  thing  is  to  secure  a  good  place  beforehand,  by  sending  for 
a  Bdetin  de  Somhra,  a  shade-ticket.  The  prices  of  the  seats  vary 
according  to  position,  as  the  great  object  is  to  avoid  the  san ;  the  best 
places  are  on  the  northern  side,  in  the  shade.  The  transit  of  the  sun 
over  the  Plaza,  the  zodiacal  progress  into  Taurus,  is  certainly  not  the 
worst  calculated  astronomical  observation  in  Spain  :  the  line  of  shadow 
defined  on  the  arena  is  marked  by  a  gi*adation  of  prices.  The  sun  of 
torrid,  tawny  Spain,  on  which  it  once  never  set,  is  still  not  to  be  trifled 
with,  and  the  summer  season  is  selected  because  pastures  are  plentiful, 
which  keep  the  bulls  in  good  condition,  and  the  days  are  longer.  The 
fights  take  place  in  the  afternoon  when  the  sun  is  less  vertical.  The 
different  seats  and  prices  are  detailed  in  the  bills  of  the  play,  with  the 
names  of  the  combatants  and  the  colours  and  breeds  of  bulls. 

The  day  before  the  fight  the  bulls  destined  for  the  spectacle  ar^ 
brought  to  a  site  outside  the  town.  N.B.  No  amateur  should  fail  to  ride- 
out  to  see  what  the  ganado,  the  hichos  or  cattle,  is  like.  The  encierrOf 
the  driving  them  from  this  place  to  the  arena,  is  a  service  of  danger,  but 
is  extremely  picturesque  and  national.  No  artist  or  aficionado  should 
omit  attending  it.  The  bulls  are  enticed  by  tame  oxen,  cahestroSy  into  a 
road  which  is  barricaded  on  each  side,  and  then  are  driven  full  speed  by 
the  mounted  conocedores  into  the  Plaza,    It  is  so  exciting  a  spectacle* 


92  XXI.    THE  BULL-FIGHT.  Sect.  I. 

that  the  poor  who  cannot  afford  to  go  to  the  bull-fight  risk  their  lives 
and  cloaks  in  order  to  get  the  front  places,  and  best  chance  of  a  stray 
poke  enpoMarU, 

The  next  afternoon  (St.  Monday  is  usually  the  day)  all  the  world 
crowds  to  the  Plaza  de  toros ;  nothing,  when  the  tide  is  full,  can  exceed 
the  gaiety  and  sparkle  of  a  Spanish  public  goin^r,  eager  and  dressed  in 
their  best,  to  the  fight  They  could  not  move  faster  even  if  they  were 
running  away  from  a  real  one.  All  the  streets  or  open  spaces  near  the 
outside  of  the  arena  are  a  spectacle.  The  merry  mob,  always  on  the 
scene,  like  the  chorus  in  a  Greek  plaj^,  is  everythingr.  The  excite- 
ment of  these  salamanders  under  a  burning  sun,  and  their  thirst  for 
the  blood  of  bulls  is  fearful.  It  is  the  bird-lime  with  which  the 
devil  catches  many  a  male  and  female  soul,  lliere  is  no  sacrifice  even 
of  chastity,  no  denial  which  they  will  not  undergo  to  save  money  for 
the  bulI-Hght.  It  is  to  Madrid  what  a  Review  is  to  Paris,  and  the  Derby 
to  London.  Sporting  men  now  put  on  all  their  r»ayo-6nery :  the 
distinguished  ladies  wear  on  these  occasions  white  lace  mantillas ;  a 
fan,  cAanico,  is  quite  necessary,  as  it  was  among  the  Komans  (Mart, 
xiv.  28).  They  are  sold  outside  for  a  trifle,  made  of  rude  paper,  and 
stuck  into  a  handle  of  common  reed.  The  aficionados  and  '*  the  gods  " 
prefer  the  pit,  the  tendido,  or  hs  andamios^  the  lower  range,  in  order,  by 
being  nearer,  that  they  may  not  lose  the  nice  traits  of  tauromaquia. 
The  real  thing  is  to  sit  across  the  opening  of  the  toril^  which  gives  an 
occasion  to  show  a  good  leg  and  an  embroidered  gaiter.  The  plaza  has 
a  langua  :e  to  itself,  a  dialect  peculiar  to  the  ring.  The  coup  d'oeil  on 
entrance  is  unique  ;  the  foreigner  is  carried  back  to  the  coliseum  under 
Commodus.  The  classical  scene  bursts  on  him  in  all  the  glory  of  the 
South.  The  president  sits  in  a  centre  box.  The  despejo^  or  clearing  out 
the  populace  from  the  arena,  precedes  his  arrival.  The  proceedings  open 
with  the  procession  of  the  performers,  the  mounted  spearmen,  ^a€?ore«; 
then  the  chvlos^  the  attendants  on  foot,  who  wear  their  silk  cloaks,  capos 
de  duranciUo,  in  a  peculiar  manner,  with  the  arms  projecting  in  front ; 
then  follow  the  slayers,  the  matadoreSf  and  the  mule- team,  el  tiro, 
which  is  destined  to  carry  off  the  slain.  The  profession  of  bull-fighter 
is  very  low-caste  in  Spain,  although  the  champions  are  much  courted 
by  some  young  nobles,  like  our  blackguard  boxers,  and  are  the  pride  and 
darlings  of  all  the  lower  classes.  Those  killed  on  the  spot  are  denied 
the. burial  rites,  as  dying  without  confession.  Springing  from  the 
dregs  of  the  people,  they  are  eminently  superstitious  ;  they  cover  their 
breasts  with  relics,  amulets,  and  papal  charms.  A  clergyman  is  in 
attendance  with  su  magestad,  the  consecrated  host,  the  Incarnate  Deity 
kept  waiting  in  person,  in  case  of  being  wanted !  for  a  dying  combatant 
whose  carcase  was  long  denied  Christian  burial. 

When  all  the  bull-fighting  company,  thus  glittering  in  their  gorgeous 
costume,  have  advanced  and  passed  the  president,  a  trumpet  sounds ; 
the  president  throws  the  key  of  the  torilj  the  cell  of  the  bull,  to  the 
algiiacil  or  pdice  man,  which  hs  ought  to  catch  in  his  feathered  hat. 
This  gentleman  is  unpopular ;  the  people  dislike  the  finisher  of  the  law, 
and  mob  him  by  instinct  as  little  birds  do  a  hawk ;  as  the  alguacil 
generally  rides  like  a  judge  or  a  Lord  Mayor,  many  are  the  hopes  and 
kind  wishes  that  he  may  tumble  off  and  be  gored  by  a  bull  of  Nemesis, 


Spain.  XXI.   THE  BULL-FIGHT-  93 

The  dififerent  performers  now  take  their  places  as  our  fielders  do  at  a 
cricket-match.  The  bull-fight  is  a  tragedy  in  three  acts,  lasts  about 
twenty  minutes,  and  each  consists  of  precisely  the  same  routine.  From 
six  to  eight  bulls  are  usually  killed ;  occasionally  another — a  toro  de 
Oracia — is  conceded  to  popular  clamour,  which  here  will  take  no  denial. 
When  the  door  of  the  toril  is  opened  the  public  curiosity  to  see  the 
first  rush  out  is  intense,  and  as  none  know  how  the  bull  will  behave, 
well  or  ill,  all  are  anxious  to  catch  his  character.  The  animal  feels  the 
novelty  of  his  position,  turned  from  his  dark  cell  into  glare  and  crowd. 
He  is  the  foredoomed  Satan  of  the  Epic ;  ignorant  indeed  of  his  fate,  for  die 
he  must,  however  skilful  or  brave  his  fight.  This  death,  the  catastrophe 
foreshadowed  again  as  in  a  Greek  play,  does  not  diminish  the  sustained 
interest  of  the  spectators,  as  the  varied  chances  in  the  progress  of  the 
acts  offer  infinite  incidents  and  unexpected  combinations.  In  the  first 
of  the  three  acts  the  picadores  are  the  chief  ])erformers ;  three  of  them 
are  now  drawn  up,  one  behind  the  other,  to  the  right  at  the  tablas^  the 
barrier  between  the  arena  and  spectators ;  each  sits  bolt  upright  on  his 
Bosinante,  with  his  lance  in  his  rest,  and  as  valiant  as  Don  Quixote. 
They  wear  the  broad-brimmed  Thessalian  hat ;  their  legs  are  cased 
with  iron  and  leather,  which  gives  a  heavy  look  ;  and  the  right  one, 
which  is  presented  to  the  bull,  is  the  best  protected.  This  grieve  is  termed 
the  espiniUera — the  fancy  call  it  la  mona — the  more  scientific  name  is 
gregortara,  from  the  inventor,  Don  Oregorio  Gallo — just  as  we  say  a 
spencer,  from  the  noble  Earl.  The  spear,  garrocha,  is  defensive  rather 
than  offensive  ;  the  blade,  la  pua,  ous;ht  not  to  exceed  one  inch  ;  the 
sheathing  is,  however,  pushed  back  when  the  picador  anticipates  an 
awkward  customer,  and  they  know  a  bull's  qualities  better  than  any 
Lavater  or  Spurzheim.  A  butcherous  bull  is  called  camic&iOf  who 
charges  home,  and  again  one  charge  more ;  siempre  Uegando  y  con  recargo. 
None  but  a  brave  bull  will  face  this  garrocha,  which  they  recollect 
of  old.  They  dislike  kicking  against  the  pricks,  and  remember  these  rods 
of  their  youth.  Those  who  shrink  from  the  punishment,  castigoy  are 
scientifically  termed  hlandos,  parados,  temerosoSj  recdosos,  tardos  apartir, 
huyendose  de  la  suerte,  tardos  a  las  varas.  When  the  bull  charges,  the 
picador,  holding  the  lance  under  his  right  arm,  pushes  to  the  right, 
and  turns  his  horse  to  the  left ;  the  bull,  if  turned,  passes  on  to  the 
next  picador.  This  is  called  redbir,  to  receive  the  point — recibid  dos 
puyazos,  tomd  tres  varas.  If  a  bull  is  turned  at  the  first  charge,  he 
seldom  comes  up  well  again — feme  el  castigo,  A  bold  bull  sometimes 
is  cold  and  shy  at  first,  but  grows  warmer  by  being  punished — poco 
prometia  a  su  salida,  hravo^pero  reparondUo,  solid  frio,pero  credo  en 
las  varas ;  ducit  opes  animumque  ferro.  Those  who  are  very  active — 
alegres,  ligeros,  con  muclias  piemas :  those  who  paw  the  ground — que 
aranan,escarban  la  tierra — are  not  much  esteemed ;  they  are  hooted  by  the 
populace,  and  execrated  as  hlandos,  ca&ra«,  goats,  becerritos,  little  calves, 
vac(zs,  cows,  which  is  no  compliment  to  a  bull ;  and,  however  unskilled 
in  bucolics,  all  Spaniards  are  capital  judges  of  bulls  in  the  ring.  Such 
animals  as  show  white  feathers  are  loathed,  as  depriving  the  public  of 
their  just  rights,  and  are  treated  with  insult,  and,  moreover,  soundly 
beaten  as  they  pass  near  the  taUas,  by  forests  of  sticks,  la  cachiporra. 
The  stick  of  the  elegant  mc^'o,  when  going  to  the  bull-fight,  is  sui 


•94  XXI.   THE  BULL-FIGHT.  Sect.  I, 

generis,  and  is  called  la  chivata ;  taper,  and  between  4  and  5  feet  long, 
it  terminates  in  a  lump  or  knob,  while  the  top  is  forked,  into  which  the 
thumb  is  inserted.  This  chivata  is  peeled,  like  the  rods  of  Laban,  in 
alternate  rings,  black  and  white  or  red.  The  lower  classes  content 
themselves  with  a  common  shillelah  ;  one  with  a  knob  at  the  end  is 
preferred,  as  administering  a  more  impressive  whack.  Their  stick  is 
called  porra,  because  heavy  lumbering.  While  a  slow  bull  is  beaten 
and  abused,  nor  even  his  mother's  reputation  spared,  a  murderous  bull, 
duro  chocante  camicero  y  pegajoso,  who  kills  horses,  upsets  men,  and 
•clears  the  plaza,  becomes  deservedly  a  universal  favourite ;  the  conquer- 
ing hero  is  hailed  with  "  Viva  toro !  viva  toro  I  hravo  toro  / "  Long  life 
is  wished  to  the  poor  beast  by  those  who  know  he  must  be  killed  in  ten 
minutes.  The  nomenclature  of  praise  or  blame  is  defined  with  the 
nicety  of  phrenology :  the  most  delicate  shades  of  character  are  dis- 
tinguished ;  life,  it  is  said,  is  too  short  to  learn  fox-hunting,  let  alone 
bull-fighting  and  its  lingo.  Sufiice  it  to  remark  that  claro,  bravo,  and 
hoyante  are  highly  complimentary.  Seco,  carnndo,  pegajoso  imply  ugly 
customers :  there  are,  however,  always  certain  newspapers  which  give 
Jancy  reports  of  each  feat.  The  language  embodies  the  richest  portions 
of  Andalucian  salty  and  is  expressed  without  any  parliamentary  peri- 
phrasis ;  during  these  saturnalia  the  liberty  of  speech  is  perfect ;  even 
the  absolute  king  bows  now  to  the  people's  voice ;  the  vox  populi  is 
the  vox  Dei  in  this  levelling  rendezvous  of  bloodshed.  The  nice  dis- 
tinction of  praise  or  blame,  of  merit  or  demerit,  in  bulls  and  artists, 
are  expressed  in  scientific  terms,  which  all  the  toresque  "  fancy  "  have 
^t  their  tongues'  tips,  and  students  will  find  in  the  lucid  glossaries  of 
the  great  works  of  Pepe  lUo  and  Montes. 

The  horses  destined  for  the  plaza  are  those  which  in  England  would 
be  sent  to  the  more  merciful  knacker ;  their  being  of  no  value  renders 
Spaniards,  who  have  an  eye  chiefly  to  what  a  thing  is  worth,  indifferent 
to  their  sufferings.  If  you  remark  how  cruel  it  is  to  "  let  that  poor 
horse  struggle  in  death's  agonies,"  they  will  say,  "  Ah  qtie !  no  vale  nd," 
Oh  !  he  is  worth  nothing.  When  his  tail  quivers  in  the  last  death- 
struggle,  the  spasm  is  remarked  as  a  jest,  mira  que  cola !  or  when  the 
blood-boltered  bull  is  mantled  with  crimson,  your  attention  is  called  to 
the  bel  cuerpo  de  sangre.  The  torture  of  the  horse  is  the  hlot  of  the 
bull-fight :  no  Englishman  or  lover  of  the  noble  beast  can  witness  his 
sufferings  without  disgust;  these  animals  being  worth  nothing  in  a 
money  point  of  view  increase^  the  danger  of  the  rider  ;  it  renders  them 
slow,  difficult  to  manage,  and  very  unlike  those  of  the  ancient  combats, 
when  the  finest  steeds  were  chosen,  quick  as  lightning,  turning  at 
touch,  and  escaping  the  deadly  rush :  the  eyes  of  these  poor  animals, 
who  will  not  face  the  bull,  are  often  bound  with  a  handkerchief  like 
criminals  about  to  be  executed ;  thus  they  await  blindfold  the  fatal 
gore  which  is  to  end  their  life  of  misery.  If  only  wounded  the  gash  is 
sewed  up  and  stopped  with  tow,  as  a  leak  1  and  life  is  prolonged  a 
minute  for  new  agonies.  When  the  poor  brute  is  dead  at  last,  his 
carcase  is  stripped  as  in  a  battle,  and  looks  poor  and  rippish  indeed. 

The  picadores  are  subject  to  hair-breadth  escapes  and  severe  falls : 

few  have  a  sound  rib  left.    The  bull  often  tosses  horse  and  rider  in 

■^6  ruin ;  and  when  the  victims  fall  on  the  ground,  exhausts  his  rage 


Spain,  XXI.  the  bull-fight.  95 

on  Ms  prostrate  enemies,  till  lured  away  by  the  glittering  cloaks  of  the 
•chtdos,  who  come  to  'the  assistance  of  the  fallen  picador.  These  horse- 
men show  marvellous  skill  in  managing  to  place  their  horses  as  a  ram- 
part between  them  and  the  bull.  When  these  deadly  struggles  take 
place,  when  life  hangs  on  a  thi*ead,  the  amphitheatre  is  peopled  with 
heads.  Every  expression  of  anxiety,  eagerness,  fear,  horror,  and  delight 
is  stamped  on  speaking  countenances.  These  feelings  are  wrought  up 
to  a  pitch  when  the  horse,  maddened  with  wounds  and  terror,  plunging 
in  the  death-struggle,  the  crimnon  streams  of  blood  streaking  his  foam 
and  sweat  whitened  body,  flies  from  the  infuriated  bull,  still  pursuing, 
still  goring;  then  is  displayed  the  nerve,  presence  of  mind,  and  horse- 
manship of  the  undismayed  picador.  It  is,  in  truth,  a  piteous,  nay, 
disgusting  sight  to  see  the  poor  dying  horses  treading  out  their  entrails, 
yet  saving  their  riders  unhurt.  The  miserable  steed,  when  dead,  is 
dragged  out,  leaving  a  bloody  furrow  on  the  sand,  as  the  river-beds  of 
the  arid  plains  of  Barbary  are  marked  by  the  crimson  fringe  of  the 
flowering  oleanders.  A  universal  sympathy  is  shown  for  the  horseman 
in  these  awful  moments ;  the  men  shout,  and  the  women  scream,  but  this 
soon  subsides.  The  picador,  if  wounded,  is  carried  out  and  forgotten 
— los  muertos  y  idos,  no  tienen  amigos,  the  dead  and  absent  have  no 
friends, — a  new  combatant  fills  the  gap,  the  battle  rages,  he  is  not 
missed,  fresh  incidents  arise,  and  no  time  is  left  for  regret  or  reflection. 
We  remember  at  Granada  seeing  a  matador  gored  by  a  bull ;  he  was 
carried  away  for  dead,  and  his  place  immediately  taken  by  his  son,  as 
coolly  as  a  viscount  succeeds  to  an  earl's  estate  and  title.  The  bull 
bears  on  his  neck  a  ribbon,  la  devisa ;  this  is  the  trophy  which  is  most 
acceptable  to  the  querida  of  a  huen  torero.  The  bull  is  the  hero  of  the 
scene,  yet,  like  Milton's  Satan,  he  is  foredoomed  and  without  reprieve. 
Nothing  can  save  him  from  a  certain  fate,  which  awaits  all,  whether 
brave  or  cowardly.  The  poor  creatures  sometimes  endeavour  in  vain 
to  escape,  and  they  have  favourite  retreats  in  the  pHa^,  su  qtierencia ;  or 
they  leap  over  the  barrier,  barrera,  into  the  tendido,  among  the  spec- 
tators, upsetting  sentinels,  water-sellers,  &c.,  and  creating  a  most 
amusing  hubbub.  The  bull  which  shows  this  craven  turn — unturuinte 
coharde  picaro—is  not  deemed  worthy  of  a  noble  death  by  the  sword. 
The  cry  of  dogs,  perros,  perros,  is  raised.  He  is  baited,  pulled  down, 
and  stabbed  in  the  spine.  A  bull  that  flinches  from  death  is  scouted 
by  all  Spaniards,  who  neither  beg  for  their  own  life  nor  spare  that  of  a 
foe.  The  tension  of  their  excitement  is  only  to  be  discharged  by 
blood :  and,  if  disappointed  in  that  of  beasts,  they  will  lap  that  of  men : 
from  insulting  bad  bulls,  they  pass  to  the  empresa,  the  management. 
The  cries  cahestros  el  circo  and  a  la  carreta  are  anything  but  compli- 
mentary. 

At  the  signal  of  the  president,  and  sound  of  a  trumpet,  the  second 
act  commences  with  the  chtdos.  This  chtdo  signifies,  in  the  Anibic,  a 
lad,  a  merryman,  as  at  our  Astley's.  They  are  picked  young  men,  who 
commence  in  these  parts  their  tauromaquian  career.  The  duty  of 
this  light  division  is  to  draw  off  the  bull  from  the  picador  when  endan- 
gered, which  they  do  with  their  coloured  cloaks ;  their  address  and 
agility  are  surprising,  they  skim  over  the  sand  like  glittering  humming- 
birds, scarcely  touoiing  the  earth.    They  are  dressed,  a  lo  majoy  m 


96  XXI.   THE  BULL-FIGHT.  Sect.  I. 

short  breeches,  and  without  gaiters,  just  as  Figaro  is  in  the  opera  of 
the  *  Barhiere  de  SeviUaJ  Their  hair  is  tied  into  a  knot  behind,  monOf 
and  enclosed  in  the  once  universal  silk  net,  the  retecilla — the  identical 
reticvlum—oi  which  so  many  instances  are  seen  on  ancient  Etruscan 
vases.  No  bull-fighter  ever  arrives  at  the  top  of  his  profession  without 
first  excelling  as  an  apprentice,  chvlo ;  then  he  begins  to  be  taught  how  to 
entice  the  bull  to  them,  Uamar  al  toro,  and  to  learn  his  mode  of  attack, 
and  how  to  parry  it.  The  most  dangerous  moment  is  when  these  chulos 
venture  out  into  the  middle  of  the  pla^a,  and  are  followed  by  the  bull 
to  the  barrier,  in  which  there  is  a  small  ledge,  on  which  they  place  their 
foot  and  vault  over,  and  a  narrow  slit  in  the  boarding,  through  which 
they  slip.  Their  escapes  are  marvellous  ;  they  seem  really  sometimes, 
so  close  is  the  run,  to  be  helped  over  the  fence  by  the  bull's  horns.  Oc- 
casionally some  curious  suertes  are  exhibited  by  chulos  and  expert 
toreros,  which  do  not  strictly  belong  to  the  regular  drama,  such  as  the 
suerie  de  la  capa,  where  the  bull  is  braved  with  no  other  defence  but  a 
cloak :  another,  the  scdto  tras  cuemo,  when  the  performer,  as  the  bull 
lowers  his  head  to  toss  him,  places  his  foot  between  his  Tioms  and  is 
lifted  over  him.  (N.B. — The  correct  term  in  toresque  euphuism  is 
astas,  spears  ;  cuemos,  horns,  is  seldom  mentioned  to  ears  polite,  as  its 
secondary  meaning  might  give  offence ;  the  vulgar,  however,  call  things 
by  their  improper  names  )  The  chulos,  in  the  second  act,  are  the  sole 
performers ;  another  exclusive  part  is  to  place  small  barbed  darts,  ban- 
deriUcts,  which  are  ornamented  with  cut  paper  of  different  colours,  on 
each  side  of  the  neck  of  the  bull.  The  banderiUeros  go  right  up  to  him, 
holding  the  arrows  at  the  shaft's  end,  and  pointing  the  barbs  at  the  bull ; 
just  when  the  animal  stoops  to  toss  them,  they  dart  them  into  his  neck 
and  slip  aside.  The  service  appears  to  be  more  dangerous  than  it  is^ 
but  it  requires  a  quick  eye,  a  light  hand  and  foot.  The  barbs  should  be 
placed  exactly  on  each  side — a  pretty  pair,  a  good  match — huenos  pares. 
Sometimes  these  arrows  are  provided  with  crackers,  which,  by  means 
of  a  detonating  powder,  explode  the  moment  they  are  afBxed  in  the 
neck,  banderiUas  de  fuego.  The  agony  of  the  tortured  animal  fre- 
quently makes  him  bound  like  a  kid,  to  the  frantic  delight  of  the 
people ;  while  the  fire,  the  smell  of  singed  hair,  and  roasted  flesh 
mingled  with  blood  (a  bifstek  a  VEspafkiC),  faintly  recalls  to  many  a 
dark  scowlinc;  priest  the  superior  attractions  of  his  former  amphitheatre, 
the  auto  defe.    But  ceremonious  murder  delights  all  classes. 

The  last  trumpet  now  sounds ;  the  arena  is  cleared  for  the  third  act ; 
the  rtuitador,  the  executioner,  the  man  of  death,  stands  before  his  victim 
dUmCy  and  thus  concentrates  in  himself  an  interest  previously  frittered 
among  the  number  of  combatants.  On  entering,  he  addresses  the  pre- 
sident, and  throws  his  montera,  his  cap,  to  the  ground,  and  swears  he 
vTill  do  his  duty.  In  his  right  hand  he  holds  a  long  straight  Toledan 
blade,  la  espada ;  in  his  left  he  waves  the  muleta,  the  red  flag,  the 
engano,  the  lure,  which  ought  not  (so  Romero  laid  down  in  our  hearing) 
to  be  so  large  as  the  standard  of  a  religious  brotherhood,  or  co/radia^ 
nor  so  small  as  a  lady's  pocket-handkerchief,  panuelito  de  senorita ;  it 
should  be  about  a  yard  square.  The  colour  is  red,  because  that  best 
irritates  the  bull  and  conceals  blood.  There  is  always  a  spare  matadoTy 
in  case  of  accidents,  which  may  happen  in  the  best  regulated  bulU 


Spain.  XXI.  the  bull-fight.  97 

fights  ;  lie  is  called  media  espada,  or  sdbresaliente.  The  matador  (el 
diestro,  the  cunning  in  fence  in  olden  books),  advances  to  the  bull,  m 
order  to  entice  him  towards  him — citarlo  a  la  suerte,  a  la  Jurisdiccion 
del  engano — to  subpoena  him,  to  get  his  head  into  chancery,  as  our  ring 
would  say ;  he  next  rapidly  studies  his  character,  plays  with  him  a 
little,  allows  him  to  run  once  or  twice  on  the  muleta,  and  then  prepares 
for  the  coup  de  grace.  There  are*  several  sorts  of  bulls — levantados,  the 
bold  and  rushing ;  parados,  the  slow  and  sly ;  aplomados,  the  heavy 
and  leaden.  The  bold  are  the  easiest  to  kill;  they  rush,  shutting 
their  eyes,  right  on  to  the  lure  or  flag.  The  worst  of  all  are  the  sly 
bulls ;  when  they  are  m^rrajos,  y  de  sentidot  cunning  and  not  running 
straight,  when  they  are  revueltos,  cuando  ganan  terreno  y  rematen  en  el 
ImltOj  when  they  stop  in  their  charge,  and  run  at  the  man  instead  of 
the  flag,  they  are  most  dangerous.  The  matador  who  is  long  killing 
his  bull,  or  shows  a  white  feather,  is  insulted  by  the  jeers  of  the  im- 
patient populace ;  he  nevertheless  remains  cold  and  collected,  in  propor- 
tion as  the  spectators  and  bull  are  mad,  and  could  the  toro  reason,  the 
man  would  have  no  chance.  There  are  many  suertes  or  ways  of  killing 
the  bull ;  the  principal  is  la  suerte  de /rente,  6  Vi  veronica — the  matador 
receives  the  charge  on  his  sword,  lo  mato  de  tm  recihido.  The  volapie, 
or  half-volley,  is  beautiful,  but  dangerous  ;  the  matador  takes  him  by 
advancing,  corriendose  lo.  A  firm  hand,  eye,  and  nerve,  form  the  essence 
of  the  art ;  the  sword  enters  just  between  the  left  shoulder  and  the 
blade.  In  nothing  is  the  real  fancy  so  fastidious  as  in  the  exact  nicety 
of  the  placing  this  death-wound ;  when  the  thrust  is  true — buen  estoque 
—death  is  instantaneous,  and  the  bull,  vomiting  forth  blood,  drops  at 
the  feet  of  his  conqueror,  who,  drawing  the  sword,  waves  it  in  triumph 
over  the  fallen  foe.  It  is  indeed  the  triumph  of  knowledge  over  brute 
force  ;  all  that  was  fire,  fury,  passion,  and  life,  falls  in  an  instant,  still 
for  ever.  The  team  of  mules  now  enter,  glittering  with  flags,  and  tink- 
ling with  bells,  whose  gay  decorations  contrast  with  the  stem  cnielty 
and  blood ;  the  dead  bull  is  carried  oflF  at  a  rapid  gallop,  which  always 
delights  the  populace.  The  matador  wipes  the  ,hot  blood  from  his 
sword,  and  bows  with  admirable  sangfroid  to  the  spectators,  who  throw 
their  hats  into  the  arena,  a  compliment  which  he  returns  by  throwing 
them  back  again  :  when  Spain  was  rich,  a  golden,  or  at  least  a  silver, 
shower  was  cast  to  the  favourite  matador — those  ages  are  past.  These 
hats— the  type  of  Grandeza — are  the  offerings,  now  that  cash  is  scarce, 

i  of  generous  poverty  not  will,  and  as  parts  and  parcels  of  themselves — 

^11  shocking  bad  some,  it  must  be  admitted. 

When  a  bull  will  not  nin  at  all  at  the  picador,  or  at  the  mvleta,  he 
is  called  a  toro  abanto,  and  the  media  luna,  the  half-moon,  is  called  for ; 
this  is  the  cruel  ancient  Oriental  mode  of  houghing  the  cattle  (Joshua 
xi.  6).  The  instrument  is  the  Iberian  bident — a  sharp  steel  crescent 
placed  on  a  long  pole.  The  cowardly  blow  is  given  from  behind ;  and, 
when  the  poor  beast  is  crippled,  an  assistant,  the  cachetero,  pierces  the 
spinal  marrow  with  his  cachete — puntiUa,  or  pointed  dagger — ^with  a 
traitorous  stab  from  behind.  This  is  the  usual  method  of  slaughtering 
cattle  in  Spain.  To  perform  all  these  vile  operations,  el  desjarretar,  is 
considered  beneath  the  dignity  of  the  matador ;  some,  however,  will 
kill  the  bull  by  plunging  the  point  of  their  sword  in  the  vertebrre,  e7 
Spain. — ^I.  f 


98  XXI.  THE  BULL-FIGHT.  Sect.  I. 

descaheUar — ^the  danger  gives  dignity  to  the  difficult  feat.  The  iden- 
tical process  obtains  in  each  of  the  fights  that  follow.  After  a  short 
collapse,  a  fresh  object  raises  a  new  desire,  and  the  fierce  sport  is 
renewed :  nor  is  it  assuaged  with  less  than  eight  repetitions ;  and  when 
darkness  covers  the  heavens,  the  mob— /cex  rumdum  satiata — retires  to 
sacrifice  the  rest  of  the  night  to  Bacchus  and  Venus,  with  a  passing 
homage  to  the  knife. 

The  Spaniards,  sons  of  "  truces  Iberi,"  are  very  tender  on  the  subject 
of  the  cruelty  or  barbarity  of  this  spectacle,  which  foreigners,  who 
abuse  it  the  most,  are  always  the  most  eager  to  attend.  Much  may  be 
said  on  both  sides  of  the  question.  Mankind  has  never  been  over- 
considerate  in  regarding  the  feelings  or  sufferings  of  animals,  when 
influenced  by  the  spirit  of  sporting.  This  sentiment  rules  in  the  arena. 
In  England  no  sympathy  is  shown  for  game — fish,  flesh,  or  fowl.  They 
are  preserved  to  be  destroyed,  to  afford  sport,  the  end  of  which  is  death. 
The  amusement  is  the  playing  the  salmon,  the  fine  run,  as  the  pro- 
longation of  animal  torture  is  termed  in  the  tender  vocabulary  of  the 
chace.  At  all  events,  in  Spain  horses  and  bulls  are  killed  outright, 
and  not  left  to  die  the  lingering  death  of  the  poor  wounded  hare  in 
countless  hattites.  Mr.  Windham  protested  "  against  looking  too 
microscopically  into  bull- baits  or  ladies'  faces ;"  and  we  must  pause 
before  we  condemn  the  bull  in  Spain,  and  wink  at  the  fox  at  Melton 
or  the  pheasant  in  Norfolk.  As  far  as  the  loss  of  human  life  is  con- 
cerned, more  aldermen  are  killed  indirectly  by  turtles,  than  Spaniards 
are  directly  by  bulls.  The  bull-fighters  deserve  no  pity ;  they  are  the 
heroes  of  low  life,  and  are  well  paid — volenti  non  fit  injuria.  We 
foreigners  come  coldly  and  at  once  into  the  scene,  without  the  prepara- 
tory freemasonry  of  previous  acquaintance,  and  are  horrified  by  wounds 
and  death  to  which  the  Spaniards  have  become  as  familiar  as  hospital- 
nurses. 

It  is  difficult  to  change  long-established  usages,  customs  of  our  early 
days,  which  come  down  to  us  connected  with  interesting  associations 
and  fond  remembrances.  We  are  slow  to  suspect  any  evil  or  harm  in 
such  practices,  dislike  to  look  the  evidence  of  facts  in  the  face,  and 
shrink  from  a  conclusion  which  would  require  the  abandonment  of  a 
recreation  long  regarded  as  innocent,  and  in  which  we,  as  well  as  our 
parents  before  us,  have  not  scrupled  to  indulge.  Children,  L*age  sans 
pitie,  do  not  speculate  on  cruelty,  whether  in  bull-baiting  or  birds'- 
nesting.  The  little  dons  and  dttenas  connect  with  this  sight  their  first 
notions  of  reward  for  good  conduct,  finery,  and  holidays,  where  amuse- 
ments are  few ;  they  return  to  their  homes  unchanged,  playful,  timid, 
or  serious,  as  before  ;  their  kindly  social  feelings  are  unimpaired.  And 
where  is  the  filial,  parental,  and  fraternal  tie  more  affectionately  che- 
rished than  in  Spain?  The  Plaza  is  patronised  by  the  Queen  our 
Lady,  Q.  D.  G.,  whom  God  preserve !  is  sanctified  and  attended  by 
the  cler^,  and  conducted  with  state  show  and  ceremony,  and  never  is 
disgraced  by  the  blackguardism  of  our  disreputable  boxing-matches. 
The  one  is  honoured  by  authority,  the  other  is  discountenanced.  How 
many  things  are  purely  conventional !  No  words  can  describe  the 
horror  felt  by  Asiatics  at  our  preserving  the  blood  of  slaughtered 
-•nimals  (Deut.  xii.  16 ;  Wilkinson,  ii.  375).    The  sight  of  our  bleeding 


Spain,  XXI,   THE  BDLL-FIGHT.  99 

shambles  appears  ten  times  more  disgusting  to  them  than  the  battle- 
woimds  (the  order  of  the  day)  of  the  bull-fight.  Nor  would  it  be  very 
essy  to  conceive  a  less  amiable  type  of  heart  and  manner  than  is  pre-* 
flented  by  a  mounted  English  buteher-cad.  Foreigners  who  argue  that 
the  effects  produced  on  Spaniards  are  exactly  those  which  are  produced 
on  themselves,  are  neither  logical  nor  true  reasoners  ;  and  those  who 
contend  that  the  Spaniards  massacre  women  and  defenceless  prisoners 
because  they  are  bull-fighters — post  hoc  et  propter  hoc — forget  that  the 
unvaried  testimony  of  all  ages  has  branded  the  national  character  with 
cold-blooded  cruelty.  They  have  never  valued  their  own,  nor  the  lives 
of  others. 

Fair  pUxy,  which  at  least  redeems  our  ring,  is  never  seen  in  or  out  of 
the  bull  fight  (yet  as  yet  there  is  no  betting  in  their  "  ring,"  no  bull 
backed  to  kill  so  many  horses,  or  a  man  at  long  odds).  The  Tlazou 
but  holds  up  a  mirror  to  nationality.  In  it,  as  out  of  it,  all  true 
Spaniards  scout  the  very  idea  of  throwing  away  a  chance, — "  ddus  an 
virtus  quis  in  hoste  requirat  ?"  How  much  of  the  Punica  fides  and 
Carthaginian  indoles  is  retained,  witness  the  back-stabbings  and  trea- 
cheries, by  which,  from  the  assassins  of  Sertorius  down  to  the  Morenos, 
Marotos,  and  Nogueras  of  to-day,  Europe  has  been  horrified  ;  these 
unchanged,  unchangeable  features  in  Oriental  and  Iberian  character 
imply  little  disgrace,  and  create  less  compunction.  "Happy  shall 
he  be  that  taketh  and  dasheth  thy  little  ones  against  the  stones.*'  They 
rarely  observe  amnesties,  seldom  pardon  or  forgive  opponents  when  in 
their  power.  These  characteristic  tendencies,  which  slumber  in  quiet 
times,  but  are  not  extinct ;  which,  however  condemned  by  Spaniards  in- 
dividually, hardly  ever  fail  to  guide  them  when  assembled,  whether  in 
cortes  or  junta;  have  long  preceded  the  bull-fight,  which  is  rather  an  effect 
than  a  cause.  The  Spanish  have  always  been  guertUeroSy  bush-fighters, 
and  to  such,  a  cruel  mimic  game  of  death  and  cunning  must  be  extremely 
congenial.  From  long  habit  they  either  see  not,  or  are  not  offended  by 
those  painful  and  bloody  details,  which  most  distress  the  unaccustomed 
stranger,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  they  perceive  a  thousand  novelties  in 
incidents  which,  to  untutored  eyes,  appear  the  same  thing  over  and  over 
again.  They  contend  that  the  more  the  toresque  intellect  is  cultivated 
the  greater  the  capacity  for  tauromachian  enjoyment.  A.thousand  minute 
beauties,  delicate  shades,  are  appreciated  in  the  character  and  conduct  of 
the  combatants,  biped  and  quadruped.  The  first  coup-^^ceil  of  the 
gay  costume  and  fiashing  eyes  of  the  assembled  thousands  is  mag- 
nificent ;  this  novel  out-of-door  spectacle,  d  Vantique,  under  no 
canopy  save  the  blue  heavens,  fascinates,  and  we  turn  away  our  eyes 
during  moments  of  painful  details — which  are  lost  in  the  poetical 
ferocity  of  the  whole.  These  feelings  are  so  infectious,  that  many  a 
stranger  merges  into  the  native.  The  interest  of  the  awful  tragedy  is 
undeniable,  irresistible,  and  all-absorbing.  The  display  of  manly 
courage,  nerve,  and  agility,  and  all  on  the  very  verge  of  death,  is  most 
exciting.  There  are  features  in  a  bold  bull  and  accomplished  comba- 
tants, which  carry  all  before  them ;  but  for  one  good  bull,  how  many  are 
the  bad!  Those  whose  fate  it  has  been  to  see  99  bulls  killed  in  one 
week  (Madrid,  June,  1833),  and  as  many  more  at  different  places  and 
times,  will  have  experienced  in  succession  the  feelings  of  admiiation 

P  2 


100  XXI.  THE  BULL-FIGHT.  Sect  I. 

pity,  and  hore,  Spanish  women,  against  whom  every  puny  scribbler 
darts  his  petty  handeriUa,  are  relieved  from  the  latter  Infliction  by  the 
never-flagging,  ever-sustained  interest,  in  being  admired.  They  have  no 
abstract,  no  Pasiphaic  predilections,  no  crudelia  amor  tauri ;  they  were 
taken  to  the  bull-fight  before  they  knew  their  alphabet,  or  what  love 
was.  Nor  have  we  heard  that  it  has  ever  rendered  them  particularly 
cruel,  save  and  except  some  of  the  elderly  and  tougher  lower-classed 
females.  The  younger  and  the  more  tender  scream  and  are  dreadfully 
affected  in  all  real  moments  of  danger,  in  spite  of  their  long  familiarity. 
Their  grand  object,  after  all,  is  not  to  see  the  bull,  but  to  be  seen  them- 
selves, and  their  dress.  The  better  classes  generally  interpose  their  fans 
at  the  most  painful  incidents,  and  certainly  show  no  want  of  sensibility. 
They  shrink  from  or  do  not  see  the  cruel  incidents,  but  adore  the  manly 
courage  and  address*  that  is  exhibited.  The  lower  classes  of  females, 
as  a  body,  behave  quite  as  respectably  as  those  of  other  countries  do  at 
executions,  or  other  dreadful  scenes,  where  they  crowd  with  their  babies. 
The  case  with  English  ladies  is  far  different.  They  have  heard  the  bull- 
fight not  praised,  bat  condemned,  from  their  childhood :  they  see  it  for 
the  first  time  when  grown  up,  when  curiosity  is  their  leading  feeling,  and 
an  indistinct  idea  of  a  pleasure,  not  unmixed  with  pain,  of  the  precise 
nature  of  which  they  are  ignorant,  from  not  liking  to  talk  on  the  subject. 
The  first  sight  delights  them :  as  the  bloody  tragedy  proceeds,  they  get 
frightened,  disgusted,  and  disappointed.  Few  are  able  to  sit  out  more 
than  one  course,  corrida,  and  fewer  ever  re-enter  the  amphitheatre. 
Probably  a  Spanish  woman,  if  she  could  be  placed  in  precisely  the  same 
condition,  would  not  act  very  differently,  and  the  fair  test  would  be  to 
bring  her,  for  the  first  time,  to  an  English  brutal  boxing-match. 

Thus  much  for  practical  tauromachia ;  those  who  wish  to  go  deeper  into 
its  philosophy — ^and  more  books  have  been  written  in  Spain  on  toresque 
than  on  most  surgical  operations — are  referred  to  "  Xa  Carta  historica  sobre 
d  Origen  y  Progresos  de  las  Fiestas  de  ToroSy'*  Nicholas  Fernandez  de  Mo- 
ratin,  Madrid,  1777 ;  **  Taurmnaquia,  o  Arte  de  Tartar ;  porun  Aficiona^ 
do,''^  Madrid,  1804.  This  was  written  by  an  amateur  named  Gomez ; 
Jose  Delgado  {Pepe  lUo)  furnished  the  materials.  It  contains  thirty 
engravings,  which  represent  all  the  implements,  costumes  and  different 
operations ;  "  La  Tauromaquia,  o  Arte  de  Torear^*^  Madrid,  1827 ; 
"  Elogio  de  las  Corridas  de  Toros^^  Manuel  Martinez  Rueda,  Madrid, 
1831 ;  "  Pom  y  Toros^^  Gaspar  Melchor  de  Jovellanos,  Madrid,  1820 ; 
and  the  "  Tauromaquixi  completa,^*  Madrid,  1836,  by  Francisco  Montes, 
the  Pepe  lUo  of  his  day,  long  the  joy,  glory,  and  boast  of  Spain.  The 
antiquity  of  the  bull-fight  has  b^sn  worked  out  in  our  paper  in  the 
*  Quarterly  Review,'  No.  cxxiv.  4.  See  also  the  graphic  illustrations  of 
Mr.  Price,  London,  Hogarth,  1852. 

To  conclude  it  may  be  remarked,  that  latterly,  since  the  recent  lUtiS' 
tracion,  the  march  of  intellect,  civilization,  and  constitutions,  nothing  has 
progressed  more  than  the  bull-fight.  Churches  and  convents  have  been 
demolished,  but,  by  way  of  compensation,  amphitheatres  have  been 
erected ;  hut  now-a-days  the  battlement  comes  down  and  the  dung-heap 
rises  up— i^a/an  los  adarves  y  dlzanse  las  muladares. 


Spain.  xxu.  Spanish  theatre.  101 


XXII.  Spanish  Theatre. 

The  theatre,  dances,  and  songs  of  Spain  form  an  important  item  in  the 
means  of  a  stranger  passing  his  evenings.  The  modern  drama  of  Europe 
may  be  said  to  have  been  formed  on  this  model,  whence  was  borrowed 
the  character  and  conduct  of  The  Play,  as  well  as  the  arrangements  of  the 
Theatre ;  and  Spain  is  still  tJie  land  of  the  Fandango,  the  JBolerOj  and 
the  guitar. 

The  Spanish  drama  rose  under  the  patronage  of  the  pleasure-loving 
Philip  IV. ;  but  its  glory  was  short-lived,  and  now  it  hardly  can  b3 
called  flourishing,  as  few  towns,  except  the  largest,  maintain  a  theatre. 
In  Spain  actors,  long  vagabonds  by  Act  of  Parliament,  were  not  allowed 
to  prefix  the  cherished  title  of  Don  before  their  names — a  remnant  of  the 
opposition  of  the  clergy  to  a  profession  which  interfered  with  their 
monopoly  of  providing  the  public  with  religious  melodramas  and 
**  mysteries ;"  the  actor  was  not  only  excluded  from  decent  society 
when  alive,  but  refused  Christian  burial  when  dead,  accordingly,  in  a 
land  where  the  spirit  of  caste  and  self-love  is  so  strong,  few  choose 
to  degrade  themselves  alive  or  dead. 

The  drama,  too,  of  Spain  has  declined  with  the  country  itself,  and  is 
almost  effaced  from  the  repertoire  of  Europe.  The  plays  of  Lope  de 
Vega  and  Calderon  have  given  way  to  pieces  translated  from  the  French ; 
thus  Spain,  as  in  many  other  things,  is  now  reduced  to  borrow  from  the 
very  nation  whose  Comeilles  she  first  instructed,  those  very  amusements 
which  she  once  taught !  The  old  theatre  was  the  mirror  of  the  manners 
of  the  time,  when  the  bearded  Hidalgos  strutted  on  the  stage  repre- 
senting the  bravoes  and  bugbears  of  Europe.  Spain  was  not  then  ashamed 
to  look  herself  in  the  face ;  now  her  flag  is  tattered,  she  shrinks  from  the 
present,  and  either  appears  in  foreign  garb  or  adopts  the  Cids  and  Alvas 
of  a  more  glorious  past.  Meanwhile  the  sainete  or  Farce  is  admirably 
performed  by  the  Spaniards,  for  few  people  have  a  deeper  or  more  quiet 
relish  for  humour,  from  the  sedate  Castilian  to  the  gay  Andalucian.  In 
playing  these  farces,  the  performers  seem  to  cease  to  be  actors,  and 
simply  to  go  through  a  part  and  parcel  of  their  daily  life ;  they  fail  in 
tragedy,  which  is  spouted  in  a  sort  of  unnatural  rant,  something  between 
German  mouthing  and  French  gesticulation.  The  Spanish  theatres, 
those  of  Madrid  scarcely  excepted,  are  badly  lighted  and  meagerly  sup- 
plied with  scenery  and  properties. 

The  first  Spanish  playhouses  were  merely  open  courtyards,  corrales, 
after  the  classical  fashion  of  Thespis.  They  were  then  covered  with  an 
awning,  and  the  court  was  divided  into  different  parts  ;  the  yard,  the 
patio,  became  the  pit.  The  rich  sat  at  the  windows  of  the  houses  round 
the  court,  whence  these  boxes  were  called  ventanus ;  and  as  almost  all 
Spanish  windows  are  defended  by  iron  gratings,  rejas,  the  French  took 
their  term  loge  griU^e  for  a  private  box.  In  the  centre  was  a  lower 
gallery,  la  tertulia,  the  quarter  chosen  by  the  erudite,  among  whom  it 
was  the  fashion  to  quote  Terttdian — los  Tertuliarws,  The  women,  excluded 
from  the  pit,  have,  as  at  our  rails,  an  exclusive  "  ladies'  carriage,"  la  ter- 
ttdia  de  las  mugeres,  reserved  for  themselves,  into  which  no  males  are  al- 
lowed to  enter.    This  feminine  preserve  used  to  be  termed  La  Cazuda— 


1G2  xxn»  SPANISH  Musia  Sect.  I* 

the  pipkin  or  (Ma^  from  the  hodgepotch  or  mixture,  and  also  "  lajaiUa 
de  las  mugeres,**  the  women*s  cage.  There  they  congregated,  as  in  church, 
dressed  in  black,  and  with  mantillas.  This  dark  assemblage  of  tresses 
might  seem  like  the  gallery  of  a  nunnery  ;  let  there  be  but  a  moment's 
pause  in  the  business  of  the  play,  then  arose  such  a  cooing  and  cawing 
in  this  rookery  of  turtle-doves,  such  an  ogling,  such  a  flutter  of  man- 
tillas, such  a  rustling  of  silks,  such  telegraphic  workings  of  fans,  such 
an  electrical  communication  with  the  pittites  below,  who  looked  up  with 
wistful,  foxite  glances,  on  the  dark  clustering  vineyard  so  tantalizingly 
placed  above  their  reach,  as  to  dispel  all  ideas  of  monastic  seclusion, 
sorrow,  or  mortification.  The  separation  of  combustible  materials  in  an 
inflammable  climate  dates  from  Augustus  (Suet.,  44).  In  the  fourth 
century,  at  Constantinople,  the  women  sat  apart  in  an  upper  gallery  of 
the  churches,  to  the  injury  and  interruption  of  male  devotion. 

Good  music  is  seldom  heard  in  Spain,  notwithstanding  the  eternal 
strumming  and  singing.  Even  the  masses,  as  performed  in  their  cathe- 
drals,  from  the  introduction  of  the  pianoforte  and  the  violin,  are  devoid 
of  impressive  or  devotional  character ;  there  is  sometimes  a  poorish  Italian 
opera  in  Madrid  and  elsewhere,  which  is  patronised  by  the  upper  classes 
because  a  thing  of  London  and  Paris;  it  bores  the  true  Spaniards  to 
extinction ;  they  are  saltatory  and  musical  enough  in  their  own  Oriental 
way,  and  have  danced  to  their  rude  songs  from  time  immemorial,  but  are 
neither  harmonious,  nor  have  any  idea  of  the  grace  and  elegance  of  the 
French  ballet;  bad  imitators  of  their  neighbours,  the  moment  they 
attempt  it  they  become  ridiculous,  whether  in  cuisine,  language,  or 
costume ;  indeed  a  Spaniard  ceases  to  be  a  Spaniard  in  proportion  as  he 
becomes  an  Afrancesado ;  when  left  to  their  original  devices,  they  take, 
in  their  jumpings  and  chirpings,  after  the  grasshopper,  and  have  a 
natural  genius  for  the  guitar  and  bolero ;  indeed  one  charm  of  the  Spanish 
theatres  is  their  own  national  i?aiZe— matchless,  unequalled,  and  inimit- 
able, and  only  to  be  really  performed  by  Andalucians.  This  is  la  scUsa  de 
la  comediay  the  essence,  the  cream,  the  sauce  piquante  of  the  nights'  enter- 
tainments ;  it  is  attempted  to  be  described  in  every  book  of  travels — for 
who  can  describe  sound  or  motion  ? — it  must  be  seen.  Yet  even  this  is 
somewhat  scornfully  treated  by  the  very  upper  classes  as  the  uncivilized 
feat  of  picturesque  barbarians,  and  it  is,  indeed,  the  expression  of  Spain, 
and  owes  nothing  to  civilization ;  the  whole  body  and  soul  of  the  south  is 
represented  by  movements,  as  poetry  is  by  words,  whereas  in  France 
people  dance  only  with  their  leojs.  However  languid  the  house,  laughable 
the  tragedy,  or  serious  the  comedy,  the  sound  of  the  Castanet  awakens 
the  most  listless ;  the  sharp,  spirit-stirring  click  is  heard  behind  the 
scenes ^the  effect  is  instantaneous — it  creates  life  under  the  ribs  of  death 
— it  silences  the  tongues  of  women — on  n'^coute  que  le  ballet.  The 
curtain  draws  up ;  the  bounding  pair  dart  forward  from  the  opposite 
scenes,  like  two  separated  lovers,  who,  after  long  search,  have  found  each 
other  again,  and  who,  heedless  of  the  public,  are  thinking  only  of  each 
other.  The  glitter  of  the  gossamer  costume  of  the  Majo  and  Maja,  in- 
vented as  for  this  dance — ^the  sparkle  of  gold  lace  and  silver  filigree — ^adds 
to  the  lightness  of  their  motions ;  the  transparent,  form-designing  saya 
of  the  women  heightens  the  charms  of  a  faultless  symmetry  which  it  fain 
"^ould  conceal ;  no  cruel  stays  fetter  serpentine  flexibility.     Their  very 


Spain.  xxu.  Spanish  danc£s.  103 

bones  seem  elastic ;  their  frame  and  physique  is  the  voluptuous  exponent  of 
beings  with  real  bodies  who  dance,  and  very  unlike  the  wiry  over-trained 
professional  dancer.  They  pause — ^bend  forward  an  instant — prove  their 
supple  limbs  and  arms :  the  band  strikes  up,  they  turn  fondly  towards 
each  other,  aud  start  into  life.  What  exercise  displays  the  ever-varying 
charms  of  female  grace,  and  the  contours  of  manly  form,  like  this  fasci- 
nating dance  ?  The  accompaniment  of  the  Castanet  gives  employment 
to  their  arms,  upraised  as  if  to  catch  showers  of  roses.  C^est  k  pantO" 
mime  dfamcyur.  The  enamoured  youth — the  coy,  coquettish  maiden ; 
who  shall  describe  the  advance — her  timid  retreat,  his  eager  pursuit,  like 
Apollo  chasing  Daphne  ?  Now  they  gaze  on  each  other,  now  on  the 
ground ;  now  all  is  life,  love,  and  action ;  now  there  is  a  pause— they 
stop  motionless  at  a  moment,  and  grow  into  the  earth.  There  is  a  truth 
which  overpowers  the  fastidious  judgment.  Away,  then,  with  the 
studied  grace  of  the  foreign  danseuse,  beautiful  but  artificial,  cold  and 
selfish  as  is  the  flicker  of  her  love,  compared  to  the  real  impassioned 
abandon  of  the  daughters  of  the  South !  There  is  nothing  indecent  in 
this  dance ;  no  one  is  tired  or  the  worse  for  it.  "  Un  ballet  ne  saurait 
6tre  trop  long,  pourvu  que  la  morale  soit  bonne,  et  la  m^taphysique  bien 
entendue,"  says  Molifere.  The  jealous  Toledan  clergy  wished  to  put  this 
dance  down,  on  the  pretence  of  immorality.  The  dancers  were  allowed  in 
evidence  to  "  give  a  view  "  to  the  court :  when  they  began,  the  bench 
and  bar  showed  symptoms  of  restlessness,  and  at  last,  casting  aside 
gowns  and  briefs,  joined,  as  if  tarantula-bitten,  in  the  irresistible  caper- 
ing.— Verdict  for  the  defendants,  with  costs  ;  Solvuntur  risu  tabulae. 

The  Bolero  is  not  of  the  remote  antiquity  which  many,  confounding 
it  with  the  well-known  and  improper  dances  of  the  Gaditanas,  have 
imagined.  The  dances  of  Spain  have  undergone  many  changes  in  style 
and  name  since  the  times  of  the  Philips  (see  Pellicer,  Don  Quixote,  i. 
156).  The  fandango  is  considered  to  be  an  Indian  word.  The  now 
disused  zarahcmda  was  probably  the  remnant  of  the  ancient  dances  of 
Gades,  which  delighted  the  Romans,  and  scandalized  the  fathers  of  the 
church,  who  compared  them,  and  perhaps  justly,  to  the  capering  per- 
formed by  the  daughter  of  Herodias.  They  were  prohibited  by  Theo- 
dosius,  because,  according  to  St.  Chrysostom,  at  such  balls  the  devil 
never  wanted  a  partner.  The  well-known  statue  at  Naples  of  the 
Venere  Callipige  is  the  undoubted  representation  of  a  Cadiz  dancing- 
girl,  probably  of  Telethusa  herself  (see  Martial,  E.  vi.  7,  and  Ep.  ad 
Priap.  18  ;  Pet.  Arbiter,  Var"*-  Ed.  1669).  In  the  Museo  Borbonico 
(Stanza  iii.  503)  is  an  Etruscan  vase  repi*esenting  a  supper-scene,  in 
which  a  female  dances  in  this  precise  attitude.  She  also  appears  in  the 
paintings  in  the  tomb  at  Cumse,  where  the  persons  applaud  exactly  as 
they  do  now,  especially  at  the  pause,  the  Men  paradoy  which  is  the 
signal  of  clapping  and  cries — mas  pitede!  was  puede!  dejala,  que  se 
canse.     Orza,  orza  I  zas  punaladaf  mxis  ajo  al  pique ! 

These  most  ancient  dances,  in  spite  of  all  prohibitions,  have  come 
down  unchanged  from  the  remotest  antiquity ;  their  character  is  com- 
pletely Oriental,  and  analogous  to  the  ghawassee  of  the  Egyptians  and 
the  Hindoo  nautch.  They  existed  among  the  ancient  Egyptians  as  they 
do  still  among  the  modems  (compare  Wilkinson,  ii.  243,  with  Lane,  ii. 
98).    They  are  entirely  different  from  the  hdero  or  fandango^  and  are 


104  XXII.   SPANISH  GIPSEY  DANCES.  Sect.  I. 


never  performed  except  by  gipsies  ;  and,  as  the  company  is  not  select, 
and  more  heads  than  hearts  broken,  are  likened  to  "gipsy's  fare," 
"  merienda  de  OitanosJ**  Every  young  antiquarian  should  witness  this 
exhibition  which  delighted  Martial,  Petronius,  Horace,  and  a  funcion 
can  always  be  got  up  at  Seville.  This  singular  dance  is  the  romalis  in 
gipsy  language,  and  the  ole  in  Spanish ;  the  xtipovoiJtia,  hrazeo,  or 
balancing  action  of  the  hands, — the  Xaicri(r/ia,  the  zapateddo,  los  taconeoSf 
the  beating  with  the  feet, — the  crissatura,  meneo,  the  tambourines  and 
castanets,  Bcetica  crusmata,  crotola, — the  language  and  excitement  of 
the  spectators,  —  tally  in  the  minutest  points  with  the  prurient  descrip- 
tions of  the  ancients,  which  have  been  elucidated  so  learnedly  by 
Scaliger,  Burman,  the  Canon  Salazar  (Grandezas  de  Cadiz,  iv.  3),  and 
the  Dean  Marti  (Peyron,  i.  246).  These  Gaditanian  dances,  which  the 
aesthetic  Huber  (Skitzen,  i.  293)  pronounces  "  die  Poesie  der  WoUust," 
are  perhaps  more  marked  by  energy  than  by  grace,  and  the  legs  have 
less  to  do  than  the  body,  arms,  and  hips.  The  sight  of  this  unchanged 
pastime  of  antiquity,  which  excites  the  lower  classes  of  Spaniards  to 
frenzy,  will  rather  disgust  an  English  spectator,  possibly  from  some 
national  mal-organization,  for,  as  Moliere  says,  "  PAngleterre  a  produit 
des  grands  hommes  dans  les  sciences  et  les  beaux  arts,  mais  pas  un 
grand  danseur !  AUez  lire  I'histoire."  However  indecent  these  gipsy 
dances  may  be,  yet  the  performers  are  inviolably  chaste ;  young  girls 
go  through  them  before  the  applauding  eyes  of  their  parents  and 
brothers,  who  would  resent  to  the  death  any  attempt  on  their  sister's 
virtue,  and  were  she  in  any  weak  moment  to  give  way  to  a  husnCy  or 
one  not  a  gipsy,  and  forfeit  her  "kLcha,  ya  trupoSy  her  unblemished 
corporeal  chastity,  the  all  and  everything  of  their  moral  code,  her  o\vn 
kindred  would  be  the  first  to  kill  her  without  pity. 

The  dances  of  other  Spaniards  in  private  life  are  much  the  same  as 
in  other  parts  of  Europe,  and,  having  nothing  national,  cease  to  have  a 
particle  of  interest,  nor  is  either  sex  particularly  distinguished  by  grace 
in  this  exercise,  to  which,  however,  they  are  much  attached.  •  Escozesas 
and  Bigodones  form  a  common  conclusion  to  the  tertvliay  where  no  great 
attention  is  paid  either  to  music  or  custume.  The  lower,  uncivilized 
classes  adhere,  as  in  the  East  (Wilk.,  ii.  239  ;  Lane,  ii.  64-74),  to  their 
primitive  dances  and  primitive  Oriental  accompaniments — the  "  tabret 
and  the  harp ;"  the  guitar  and  tambourine — toph,  tabor,  tympanum^ 
'  with  the  Castanet :  tympoma  vos  Imxtisqvs  vocat.  No  people  play  on  these 
castanets,  castanvMas  paliUos,  so  well  as  the  Andalucians ;  they  begin 
as  children  by  snapping  their  fingers,  or  clicking  together  two  bits  of  slate 
or  shell ;  these  castanets  are  the  Baetican  crusmata  and  crotcla,  and  crotalo 
is  still  a  Spanish  term  for  the  tambourine,  and  their  use  still,  as  in  the 
days  of  Petronius  Arbiter,  forms  the  delicice  populi.  Cervantes  describes 
the  "  bounding  of  the  soul,  the  bursting  of  laughter,  the  restlessness  of 
the  body,  and  the  quicksilver  of  the  five  senses,"  when  this  clicking 
and  capering  is  set  going.  It  is  the  rude  sport  of  people  who  dance 
from  the  necessity  of  motion ;  and  of  the  young,  the  healthy,  and  the 
joyous,  to  whom  life  is  of  itself  a  blessing,  and  who,  like  bounding  kids, 
thus  give  vent  to  their  superabundant  lightness  of  heart  and  limb. 
_  Sancho,  a  true  Manchegan,  after  the  saltatory  exhibitions  of  his  master, 
ofesses  his  ignorance  of  such  elaborate  dancing,  but  for  a  zapateo,  a 


Spain.  xxn.  the  seguidilla  and  guitar.  105 

knocking  of  shoes,  he  was  as  good  as  a  gerilfante.  Unchanged  as  are 
the  instruments,  so  are  their  dancing  propensities.  All  night  long,  says 
Strabo  (iii.  249),  and  Sil.  Italicus  (iii.  349),  did  they  dance  and  sing, 
or  rather  jump  and  yell  out,  "  vlulantes"  the  unchanged  "  howlings 
of  Tarshish." 

The  Iberian  warriors  danced  armed ;  like  the  Spartans,  even  their  re- 
laxations preserved  the  military  principle,  and  they  beat  time  with  their 
swords  on  their  shields.  When  one  of  their  champions  wished  to  show 
his  contempt  for  the  Eomans,  he  retired  before  them  dancing  a  derisive 
atep  (  App.  jBcZ?.  Hisp.  410).  T\n&pynrica  saltatio  is  of  all  ages  and  climes ; 
thus-the  aXbanatico  of  the  Grecian  Archipelago  is  little  changed  from  what 
it  was  in  Homer's  time ;  the  Goths  had  it,  and  the  Moors  likewise ;  our 
tnorm-dance  is  but  the  Moorish  one,  which  John  of  Gaunt  brought  into 
England,  the  peasants  in  Spain  occasionally  dance  it  still  in  all  the  per- 
fection of  ancient  step  and  costume.  The  most  picturesque  exhibition 
of  these  wild  dances  which  we  ever  saw  was  at  Quintana  Duenas.  This 
armed  dance,  mimic  war,  was  invented  (se  dice)  by  Minerva,  who  capered 
for  joy  after  the  overthrow  of  the  rebel  angels,  giants.  Titans — the  victory 
of  knowledge  over  brute  force.  Masdeu  in  the  last  century  describes  these 
unchanged  dances  as  he  saw  them  at  Tarragona  (^Hist.  Crit.  ii.  7),  when 
some  of  the  performers  got  on  each  other's  shoulders  to  represent  the 
Titans,  and  the  Dance  retained  its  Pagan  name — el  Titcms,  BayUs  de 
los  Titanes, 

The  seguidiUa,  the  guitar,  and  dance,  at  this  moment  form  the  joy  of 
careless  poverty,  the  repose  of  sunburnt  labour.  The  poor  forget  for 
them  their  toils,  sans  six  scms  et  sans  scmci,  nay,  sacrifice  even  tbeir  meals, 
like  Pliny's  friend  Claro,  who  lost  his  supper,  Boetican  dives  and  gaspa- 
cho,  to  run  after  a  Gaditanian  dancing-girl  (Plin.  Ep.  i.  15),  and,  as  of  old, 
this  dancing  is  their  relaxation  and  Bequies  (Sil.  It.  iii.  346).  In  venta 
and  court-yard,  in  spite  of  a  long  day's  walk,  work,  and  scanty  fare,  at  the 
sound  of  the  guitar  and  click  of  the  castanet  a  new  life  is  breathed  into 
their  veins  ;  so  far  from  feeling  past  fatigue,  the  very  fatigue  of  the  dance 
seems  refreshing,  and  many  a  weary  traveller  will  rue  the  midnight  frolics 
of  his  noisy  and  saltatory  fellow-lodgers.  Supper  is  no  sooner  over  than 
"  apres  la  pause  la  danse," — some  black-whiskered  performer,  the  very 
antitliesis  of  Farinelli,  "  screechin'  out  his  prosaic  verse,"  screams  forth 
his  "  coflas  de  zarabanda,  Las  Canas,^*  either  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  or 
drawliS  out  his  ballad,  "  melancholy  as  the  drone  of  a  Lincolnshire  bag- 
pipe ;"  both  feats  are  done  to  the  imminent  danger  of  his  own  trachea,  and 
of  all  un-Spanish  acoustic  organs,  and  after  the  fashion  of  Gray's  critique, 
"  des  miaulemens  et  des  hurlemens  effroyables,  m$l^s  avec  im  tintamare 
dudiable — voilalamusiqueFran9aiseenabr^g^."  As,  however,  in  Paris, 
so  in  Spain,  the  audience  are  in  raptures ;  "all  men's  ears  grow  to  his 
tunes  as  if  they  had  eaten  ballads."  This  Cana,  the  unchanged  Arabic 
Oamiia,  for  a  song,  is  sad  and  serious  as  love,  and  usually  begins  and  ends 
with  an  ay  1  or  sigh.  The  company  takes  part  with  beatings  of  feet, 
**  taconeos ;"  with  clapping  of  hands,  the  xP^'^^Si  "  palm^ido,^*  and 
joining  in  chorus  at  the  end  of  each  verse.  There  is  always  in  every 
company  of  Spaniards,  whether  soldiers,  civilians,  or  muleteers,  some 
one  who  can  play  the  guitar,  poco  mas  o  menos.  Qodoy,  the  Prince  of 
the  Peace,  one  of  the  most  worthless  of  the  multitude  of  worthies' 

F  3 


106  XXII.  SPANISH  GUITAR  MUSIC.  Sect.  I. 

ministers  by  whom  Spain  has  been  misgoverned,  first  captivated  the 
royal  Messalina  by  his  talent  of  strumming  on  the  guitar.    Isaiah  gives 
the  truest  image  of  the  desolation  of  an  Eastern  city,  the  **  ceasing  of 
the  mirth  of  the  guitar  and  tambourine."    In  most  villages  the  barhero 
is  the  Figaro,  who  seldom  fails  to  stroll  down  to  the  venta  unbidden 
and  from  pure  love  of  harmony,  gossip,  and  the  ftoto,  where  his  song 
secures  him  supper  and  welcome  ;  a/uncion  is  soon  armada^  or  a  parti/ 
got  up  of  all  ages  and  sexes,  who  are  attracted  by  the  tinkling,  like- 
swarming  bees,  and  the  more  if  the  stranger  volunteers  to  pay  for  re- 
freshments.   The  guitar  is  part  and  parcel  of  the  Spaniard  and  his 
ballads,  and,  so  say  the  political  economists,  has  done  more  injury  to 
Spain  than  hailstorms  or  drought,  from  fostering  sins^ug,  dancing,  and 
idleness ;  the  i^erformer  slings  it  across  his  shoulder  with  a  ribbon,  as  was 
depicted  on  the  tombs  of  Egypt  4000  years  ago  (Wilkinson,  ii.  ch.  vi.). 
It  is  the  unchanged  kinoor  of  the  East,  the  KiOapa,  cithera,  g^uitarra, 
githorne ;  the  "  guiteme  Moresche "  of  the  ministrellers  (Ducange). 
The  performers,  seldom  scientific  musicians,  content  themselves  with 
striking  the  chords,  sweeping  the  whole  hand  over  the  strings,  rasque^ 
cmdo,  or  flourishing,  floreando,  and  tapping  the  guitar-board  with  the 
thumb,  gdpeando,  at  which  they  are  very  expert.    Occasionally  in  the 
towns  there  is  a  zapatero  or  a  maestro  of  some  kind,  who  has  attained 
more  power  over  this  ungrateful  instrument ;  but  the  attempt  is  generally 
a  failure,  for  it  responds  coldly  to  Italian  words  and  elaborate  melody, 
which  never  come  home  to  Spanish  ears  or  hearts  ;  like  the  guitar  of 
Anacreon,  love,  sweet  love,  is  its  only  theme,  ip<ara  fiovov.    The  mul- 
titude suit  the  guitar  to  the  song ;  both  air  and  words  are  frequently  ex- 
temporaneous ;  the  language  comes  in  aid  to  the  fertile  mother- wit  of  the 
natives ;  rhymes  are  dispensed  with  at  pleasure,  or  mixed  up  according 
to  caprice  with  assofiants,  with  which  more  of  the  popular  re/ranes  are 
rounded  off  than  by  rhymes.      The  assonant  consists  of  the  mere 
recurrence  of  the  same  vowels,  without  reference  to  that  of  consonants. 
Thus  Santos,  UantoSy  are  rhymes  ;  amor  and  razon  are  assonants ;  even 
these,  which  poorly  fill  a  foreign  ear,  are  not  always  observed  ;  a  change 
in  intonation,  or  a  few  thumps  more  or  less  on  the  guitar-board,  does 
the  work,  and  supersedes  all  difficulties.     These  moras  pronunciationis, 
this  ictus  metricuSy  constitute  a  rude  prosody,  and  lead  to  music  just  as 
gestures  do  to  dancing, — to  ballads, — *'  que  se  cantan  haUando ;"  and 
which,  when  heard,  reciprocally  inspire  a  Saint  Vitus's  desire  to  snap 
fingers  and  kick  heels,  as  all  will  admit  in  whose  ears  the  ?uibas  verdes 
of  Leon,  or  the  cachucha  of  Cadiz,  yet  ring.    The  words  destined  to  set 
all  this  capering  in  motion — not  written  for  cold  critics — are  listened  to 
by  those  who  come  attuned  to  the  hearing  vein — ^who  anticipate  and 
re-echo  the  subject — who  are  operated  on  by  the  contagious  bias.    Thus 
a  sonnd-fascinated  audience  of  otherwise  sensible  Britons,  tolerates  the 
positive  presence  of  nonsense  at  an  opera.    To  feel  the  full  power  of  the 
guitar  and  Spanish  song,  the  performer  should  be  a  sprightly  Andaluza, 
taus;ht  or  untaught ;  and  when  she  wields  the  instrument  as  her  fan, 
as  if  part  of  herself,  and  alive,  no  wonder  one  of  the  old  fathers  of  the 
church  said,  that  he  would  sooner  &ce  a  singing  basilisk  :  she  is  good 
for  nothing  when  pinned  down  to  a  piano,  on  which  few  Spanish  women 
nlay  even  tolerably.    The  words  of  her  song  are  often  struck  off  at  the 


Spain.  XX.U,  SPANISH  MUSIC.      TONES.  107 

moment,  and  allude  to  incidents  and  persons  present.  Sometimes  those 
of  la  gente  ganza,  que  tiene  zandunga,  are  most  clever,  full  of  epigram 
and  double  entendre ;  they  often  sing  what  may  not  be  spoken,  and  steal 
hearts  through  ears,  for,  as  Cervantes  says,  Cuando  cantan  encanian : 
at  other  times  their  song  is  little  better  than  nonsense,  with  which  the 
audience  is  just  as  well  satisfied.  For,  as  Figaro  says — "  ce  qui  ne 
vaut  pas  la  peine  d'etre  dit,  on  le  chante."  A  good  voice,  which 
Italians  call  novanta-nove,  ninety-nine  parts  out  of  the  hundred,  is  very 
rare;  nothing  strikes  a  traveller  more  unfavourably  than  the  harsn 
voice  of  Spanish  women  in  general.  The  Spanish  guitar  requires  an 
abandon,  a  fire,  and  gracia  which  could  not  be  risked  by  ladies  of  more 
northern  climates  and  more  tightly-laced  zones.  The  songs,  the 
ballads,  "  this  free  press "  of  the  people  of  Spain,  and  immemorially 
their  delight,  have  tempered  the  despotism  of  their  church  and  state, 
have  sustained  a  nation's  resistance  against  foreign  aggression. 

Not  much  music  is  printed  in  Spain ;  the  songs  and  airs  are  frequently 
sold  in  MS.  Sometimes,  for  the  very  illiterate,  the  notes  are  expressed 
in  numeral  figures,  which  correspond  with  the  number  of  the  strings. 
Andalucia  is  the  chosen  spot  to  form  the  best  collection.  Don  N. 
Zamaracola  has  published  a  small  selection — *■  Cohccion  de  Seguidillas, 
Tiranas,  y  Folos,^  Mad.  1799,  under  the  name  of  Don  Precise.  The 
SeguidiUas,  Manchegas,  Boleros  are  a  sort  of  madrigal,  and  consist  of 
7  verses,  4  lines  of  song  and  3  of  chorus,  estreviUo ;  the  Bondends  and 
Malagenaa  are  couplets  of  4  verses,  and  take  their  names  from  the 
towns  where  they  are  most  in  vogue ;  the  term  of  others.  La  Arana, 
comes  from  the  Havana.  The  best  guitars  in  the  world  were  made  by 
the  Pajez  family,  father  and  son,  in  Cadiz. 

Meanwhile  the  genuine  airs  and  tunes  are  very  Oriental,  of  most 
remote  antiquity,  and  a  remnant  of  primitive  airs,  of  which  a  want  of 
the  invention  of  musical  notation  has  deprived  us.  Melody  among  the 
Egyptians,  like  sculpture,  was  never  permitted  to  be  changed,  lest  any 
new  fascination  might  interfere  with  the  severe  influence  of  their  mis- 
tress, religion.  That  both  were  invented  for  the  service  of  the  altar  is 
indicated  in  the  myth  of  their  divine  origin.  These  tunes  passed  into 
other  countries ;  the  plaintive  maneros  of  the  Nile,  brought  by  the 
Phoenicians  into  Spain,  became  the  Lintis  of  Greece  (Herod,  ii.  79 J.  The 
national  tunes  of  the  Fellah,  the  Moor,  and  the  Spaniard,  are  still  slow 
and  monotonous,  often  in  utt^r  opposition  with  the  sentiments  of  the 
words,  which  have  varied,  whilst  the  airs  remain  unchanged.  They  are 
diatonic  rather  than  chromatic,  abounding  in  suspended  pauses,  and  uni- 
sonous, not  Uke  our  glees,  yet  generally  provided  with  an  "  estreviUo,** 
a  chorus  in  which  the  audience  joins.  They  owe  little  to  hannony,  the 
end  being  rather  to  affect  than  to  please.  Certain  sounds  seem  to  have 
a  mysterious  aptitude  to  express  certain  moods  of  the  mind  in  connection 
with  some  unexplained  sympathy  between  the  sentient  and  intellectual 
organs :  the  simplest  are  by  far  the  most  ancient.  Ornate  melody  is  a 
modem  invention  from  Italy  ;  and  although,  in  lands  of  greater  inter- 
course and  fastidious  civilization,  the  conventional  has  ejected  the 
national,  fashion  has  not  shamed  or  silenced  the  old-ballad  airs  of  Spain 
— those  "  bowlings  of  Tarshish."  Indeed,  national  tunes,  like  Ihe  songs 
of  birds,  are  not  taught  in  orchestras,  but  by  mothers  to  their  infa-^ 


108  XXIII.  SPANISH  CIGARS.  Sect.  I. 

progeny  in  the  cradling  nest.  As  the  Spaniard,  in  the  mass,  is  warlike 
without  being  military,  saltatory  without  being  graceful,  so  he  is  musical 
without  being  harmonious ;  he  continues  much  the  raw  man  material 
made  by  nature,  and  treating  himself  mostly  as  he  does  the  raw  products 
of  his  soil,  takes  things  as  he  finds  them,  leaving  art  and  final  develop- 
ment to  the  foreigner.  He  is  better  seen  in  the  streets  than  in  the 
saloon — in  the  Serrania  and  far  from  cities.  The  venta  after  all  is  the 
true  opera-house  of  Spain :  all  the  rest  is  London  leather  or  Parisian 
prunella  ;  y  no  vale  ndda.  The  student  may  consult  Origen  de  Teatro 
Espanol,  M.  Garcia,  Madrid,  1802  ;  Tratado  del  Histrionismo,  Pellicer, 
Madrid,  1804 ;  Origines  del  Teatro  Espand,  Moratin»  Madrid,  1830 ; 
and  the  excellent  work  on  the  Spanish  Theatre  by  the  German  Schak  ; 
see  also  our  papers,  on  the  Spanish  Stage,  *  Quart.  Rev.'  No.  cxvii. ; 
and  on  Spanish  Ballads^  *  Edin.  Rev.'  No.  cxlvi. 

XXIII.  Spanish  Cigars. 

But  whether  at  the  bull-fight  or  theatre,  lay  or  clerical,  wet  or  dry, 
the  Spaniard  during  the  day,  sleeping  excepted,  solaces  himself,  when  he 
can,  with  a  cigar ;  this  is  his  nepenthe,  his  pleasure  opiate,  his  te  veniente 
die  et  te  decedente,  which  soothes  but  not  inebriates. 

The  manufactory  of  the  cijrar  is  not  the  least  active  of  all  carried  on 
in  the  Peninsula.  The  buildings  are  palaces ;  witness  Seville,  Malaga, 
and  Valencia.  As  a  cigar  is  a  sine  qua  non  in  a  Spaniard's  mxmth,  it 
must  have  its  page  in  a  Spanish  Handbook,  Ponz,  the  first  m  that 
field,  remarks  (ix.  201),  "  You  will  think  me  tiresome  with  my  tobac- 
^  conistical  details,  but  the  vast  bulk  of  my  readers  will  be  more  pleased 
*  with  it  than  with  an  account  of  all  the  pictures  in  the  world."  This 
calumet  of  peace  is  the  poor  man's  friend,  calms  the  mind,  soothes  the 
temper,  and  makes  men  patient  under  trouble,  and  hunger,  heat,  and 
despotism.  "  Quoique  puisse  dire,"  said  Molidre,  "  Aristotc  et  toute 
la  philosophic,  il  n'y  a  rien  d'^gal  au  tabac."  In  larderless  Spain  it  is 
meat  and  drink  both,  and  the  chief  smoke  connected  with  caterings 
for  the  mouth  issues  from  labial  chimneys. 

Tobacco,  this  anodyne  for  the  irritability  of  human  reason,  is,  like 
spirituous  liquors  which  make  it  drunk,  a  highly-taxed  article  in  civi- 
lized societies.  In  Spain,  the  Bourbon* dynasty  (as  elsewhere)  is  the 
hereditary  tobacconist-general ;  the  privilege  is  generally  farmed  out  to 
some  contractor :  accordingly,  a  really  good  home-made  cigar  is  with 
difficulty  to  be  had  in  the  Peninsula  for  love  or  money.  There  seems  to 
be  no  royal  road  to  the  science  of  cigar-making ;  the  article  is  badly 
made,  of  bad  materials,  and,  to  add  insult  to  injury,  charged  at  an 
exorbitant  price.  In  order  to  benefit  the  Havana,  tobacco  is  not  allowed 
to  be  grown  in  Spain,  which  it  would  do  perfectly  near  Malaga,  for 
when  the  experiment  was  made,  and  proved  successful,  the  cul- 
tivation was  immediately  prohibited  by  the  government  The  bad- 
ness and  deamess  of  the  royal  article  favours  the  well-meaning  smuggler ; 
and  this  corrector  of  blundering:  chancellors  of  exchequers  provides  a 
better  and  cheaper  thing  from  Gibraltar.  No  offence  is  more  dreadfully 
punished  in  Spain  than  that  of  tobacco-smuggling,  which  robs  the  royal 
pocket — all  other  robbery  is  as  nothing,  for  the  lieges  only  sufier. 


Spain.  xxiu.  Spanish  giqarito.  109 

The  encouragement  afforded  to  the  manufacture  and  smuggling  of 
cigars  at  Gibraltar  is  a  never-failing  source  of  ill  blood  and  ill  will 
between  the  Spanish  and  English  governments.  This  most  serious  evil 
is  contrary  to  treaties,  injurious  to  Spain  and  England  alike,  and  is 
beneficial  only  to  aliens  of  the  worst  character  who  form  the  real  plague 
and  sore  of  the  Rock. 

Many  tobacoose  epicures,  who  smoke  their  regular  dozen,  place  the 
supply  sufficient  for  the  day,  between  two  fresh  lettuce-leaves,  which 
improves  the  narcotic  effect.  Ferdinand  VII.  was  not  only  a  great 
manufacturer  but  consumer  of  certain  Purofnes,  a  large  thick  cigar 
made  expressly  for  his  gracious  ase  in  the  Havana,  and  of  the  vuelta 
de  ahajoj  the  very  best,  for  he  was  too  good  a  judge  to  smoke  his  own 
manufacture.  The  cigar  was  one  of  his  pledges  of  love  and  hatred : 
when  meditating  a  treacherous  cowp^  he  would  give  graciously  a  royal 
weed  to  a  minister,  and  when  the  happy  individual  got  home  to  smoke 
it,  he  was  saluted  by  an  alguacil  with  an  order  to  quit  Madrid  in  twenty- 
four  hours. 

The  bulk  of  Spaniards  cannot  afford  either  the  expense  of  tobacco, 
which  is  dear  to  them,  or  the  loss,  of  not  losing  time,  which  is  very 
<>heap,  by  smoking  a  whole  cigar :  a  single  cigar  furnishes  occupation 
and  recreation  for  half  an  hour.  Though  few  Spaniards  ruin  themselves 
in  libraries,  fewer  are  without  a  little  blank  book  of  papd  de  hilo,  a 
particular  paper  made  best  at  Alcoy,  in  Valencia.  At  any  pause  all  say 
•at  once — fv^es  senores !  echemos  wn  cigarito — well  then,  gentlemen,  let 
us  make  a  little  cigar :  when  forthwith  all  set  seriously  to  work ; 
every  Spaniard,  besides  this  book,  is  armed  with  a  small  case  of  flint, 
steel,  and  a  combustible  tinder,  ^^yesca,**  To  make  a  paper  cigar,  like 
putting  on  a  cloak,  flirting  a  fan,  or  clicking  castanets,  is  an  ope- 
ration of  much  more  difficulty  than  it  seems,  but  Spaniards,  who 
have  done  nothing  so  much  from  their  chHdhood  upwards,  per- 
form both  with  extreme  facility  and  neatness.  This  is  the  mode  : — 
the  petacca  (Arabic^  Butak),  a  cigar  case  worked  by  a  fair  hand  in 
coloured  pita  (the  thread  from  the  aloe),  is  taken  out— a  leaf  is  torn 
from  the  book,  which  is  held  between  the  lips,  or  downwards  from  the 
back  of  the  hand,  between  the  fore  and  middle  finger  of  the  left  hand — 
:a  portion  of  the  cigar,  about  a  third,  is  cut  off  and  rubbed  slowly  in  the 
palms  till  reduced  to  a  powder^ — ^it  is  then  jerked  into  the  paper-leaf, 
which  is  rolled  up  into  a  little  squib,  and  the  ends  doubled  down,  one 
of  which  is  bitten  off  and  the  other  end  is  lighted.  The  cigarillo  is 
smoked  slowly,  the  last  whiff  being  the  bonne  bouche,  the  breast,  la 
pedmga.  The  little  ends  are  thrown  away  (they  are  indeed  little,  for  a 
Spanish  fore-finger  and  thumb  is  quite  fire-browned  and  fire-proof). 
fk>me  polished  exquisites,  poUos,  use  silver  holders.  These  remnants  are 
picked  up  by  the  beggar-boys,  who  make  up  into  fresh  cigars  the 
leavings  of  a  thousand  mouths.  On  the  Prados  and  Alamedas  urchins 
always  are  running  about  with  a  rope  slowly  burning  for  the  benefit  of 
the  public.  At  many  of  the  sheds  where  water  and  lemonade  are  sold, 
one  of  these  ropes,  twirled  like  a  snake  round  a  post,  is  kept  always 
ignited,  as  the  match  of  a  besieged  artilleryman.  In  the  houses  of  the 
affluent  a  small  silver  chafing-dish,  prunce  haiillum,  filled  with  lighted 
^charcoal,  is  usually  placed  on  a  table.  This  necessity  of  a  light  levels  ai' 


110  XXIV.  SPANISH  COSTUME.  Sect.  I.. 

ranks ;  it  is  allowable  to  stop  any  person  in  the  streets,  for  fire,  "/wc^fo,'*' 
**  candela ;"  thus  a  cigar  forms  the  bond  of  union,  an  isthmus  of  com- 
munication between  most  heterogeneous  ranks  and  ages.  Some  of  the 
Spanish  fair  sex  are  said  to  indulge  in  a  quiet  cigariUa,  utwl  pajita ;  but 
it  is  not  thought  either  a  sign  of  a  real  lady,  or  of  one  of  rigid  virtue, 
to  have  recourse  to  stolen  and  forbidden  pleasures ;  for  whoever  make& 
one  basket  will  make  a  hundred — quien  hace  tm  cesto,  hara  un  ciento. 

Nothing  exposes  a  traveller  to  more  difficulty  than  carrying  tobacco 
in  his  luggage ;  whenever  he  has  more  than  a  certain  small  quantity,, 
let  him  never  conceal  it,  but  declare  it  at  every  gate,  and  be  provided 
with  <iguia,  or  permit.  Yet  all  will  remember  never  to  be  witbout  some 
cigars,  and  the  better  the  better ;  for  although  any  cigar  is  acceptable,, 
yet  a  real  good  one  is  more  tempting  than  the  apple  was  to  Eve.  The- 
greater  the  enjoyment  of  the  smoker,  the  greater  his  respect  for  the 
donor ;  a  cigar  may  be  given  to  everybody,  whether  high  or  low,  and  the 
petaca  may  be  presented,  just  as  a  Frenchman  of  La  vieille  cour  offered 
his  snuflf-box,  as  a  prelude  to  conversation.  It  is  an  act  of  civility,  and 
implies  no  superiority ;  there  is  no  humiliation  in  the  acceptance — it  i& 
twice  blessed — "  it  blesseth  him  that  gives  and  him  that  takes ;" — ^it  is 
the  spell  wherewith  to  charm  the  natives,  who  are  its  ready  and  obedient 
slaves,  and  a  cigar,  like  a  small  kind  word  spoken  in  time,  works  miracles* 
There  is  no  country  in  the  world  where  the  stranger  and  traveller  can 
purchase  for  half-a-crown,  half  the  love  and  good- will  which  its  invest-^ 
ment  in  tobacco  will  ensure :  a  man  who  grudges  or  neglects  it  is  neither 
a  philanthropist  nor  a  philosopher. 

Offer,  therefore,  your  cigar-case  freely  and  cheerfully,  dear  traveller^ 
when  on  the  road ;  but  if  you  value  your  precious  health  of  mind  or 
body,  your  mens  scma  in  corpore  sano,  l3ie  combined  and  greatest 
blessings  in  this  life,  use  this  bane  of  this  age  but  sparingly  your- 
self: abuse  it  not.  An  early  indulgence  in  this  vicious  and  expen- 
sive habit  saps  life.  The  deadening  influence  of  this  slow  but  sure 
poison  tampers  with  every  power  <;onferring  secretion  of  brain  and 
body ;  and  although  the  effects  may  not  be  felt  at  the  moment,  the 
cigaresque  spendthrift  is  drawing  bills  on  his  constitution  which  in  a 
few  years  assuredly  must  fall  due,  and  then,  when  too  late,  he  will  dis- 
cover what  far  higher  pleasures,  intellectual  and  physical,  have  been 
sacrificed  for  the  filthy  weed. 

XXIV. — Spanish  Costume — Cloak  and  Mantilla. 

The  Spaniards,  in  spite  of  the  invasions  of  French  milliners  and 
English  tailors,  have  retained  much  of  a  national  costume,  that  pic- 
turesque type,  which  civilization,  with  its  cheap  and  common-place 
calico,  is,  alas  1  busily  effacing.  As  progress  in  Spain  is  slow,  fortunately 
the  Capa  and  MantUla,  nowhere  else  to  be  met  with  in  Europe,  still 
remain  to  gladden  the  eye  of  the  stranger  and  artist,  and  however  they 
may  be  going  out  of  fashion  at  Madrid,  are  fortunately  preserved  in  the 
provinces. 

Dress,  from  its  paramount  importance,  demands  a  page.     We  strongly 

recommend  our  readers,  ladies  as  well  as  gentlemen,  whose  grand  object 

^ '  '*«  to  pass  in  the  crowd  incognito  and  unnoticed,  to  re-rig  themselves  out 


Spain.  XXIV.  Spanish  mantilla.  Ill 

at  the  first  great  town  at  which  they  arrive,  for  unless  they  are  dressed 
like  the  rest  of  the  world,  they  will  everywhere  be  stared  at,  and  be 
pestered  by  beggars,  who  particularly  attack  strangers. 

Black  from  time  immemorial  has  been  the  favourite,  the  national 
colour,  fUKavtifiov^s  Sjravres  to  irXciov  ev  cayois  (Strabo,  iii.  233).  This 
male  sa/jum  is  the  type  of  the  modern  saya  or  hasquina,  the  outer  petti- 
coat, feminine,  which  is  always  black,  and  is  put  over  the  indoor  dress 
on  going  out.  The  Greeks  translated  the  Tyrian  phrase  "  Bewitching 
of  naughtiness"  by  the  term  fiaa-Kavia.  Black,  the  colour  of  etiquette 
and  ceremony,  is  the  only  one  in  which  women  are  allowed  to  enter 
churches.  Being  that  of  the  learned  professions,  it  makes  Spaniards  seem 
wiser,  according  to  Charles  V.,  than  they  really  are ;  while,  from  being 
the  garb  of  the  bereaved,  it  disarms  the  evil  eye  which  dogs  prosperity, 
and  inspires,  instead  of  associations  of  envy,  those  of  pity  and  respect. 
It  gives  an  air  of  decorum  and  modesty,  and  softens  an  indifferent  skin. 
Every  one  in  England  has  been  struck  with  the  air  of  respectability 
which  mourning  confers,  even  on  ladies'  maids.  The  prevalence  of 
black  veils  and  dark  cloaks  on  the  Alameda  and  in  the  church,  convevs 
to  the  stranger  newly  arrived  in  Spain  the  idea  of  a  population  of  nuns 
and  clergymen.  As  far  as  woman  is  concerned,  the  dress  is  so  becoming, 
that  the  diflBculty  is  to  look  ugly  in  it ;  hence,  in  spite  of  the  monotony, 
we  are  jjleased  with  a  uniformity  which  becomes  all  alike ;  those  who 
cannot  see  its  merits  should  lose  no  time  in  consulting  their  oculist. 

The  beauty  of  the  Spanish  women  is  much  exaggerated,  and  more 
loveliness  is  to  be  seen  in  one  fine  day  in  Kegent-street  than  in  a  year 
in  Spain.  Their  charm  consists  in  symmetry  of  form,  grace  of  manner 
and  expression,  and  still  more,  as  in  the  case  of  a  carpor-ffaic  au  beurre 
noir,  in  the  dressing ;  yet,  such  is  the  tyranny  of  fashion,  that  many  of 
its  votaries  are  willing  to  risk  the  substance  for  the  shadow,  and  to  strive, 
instead  of  remaining  inimitable  originals,  to  become  second-rate  copies. 
Faithless  to  true  Espanolismo,  they  sacrifice  on  the  altar  of  La  mode  de 
Paris  even  attraction  itself.  The  CocoSf  or  cottons  of  Manchester,  are 
superseding  the  Alepines,  or  bombazeens  of  Valencia,  as  the  blinkers  and 
bonnets  of  the  Boulevards  are  eclipsing  the  Mantillas, 

The  Mantilla  is  the  aboriginal  female  head-gear.  Iberia,  in  the  early 
coins,  those  picture-books  of  antiquity,  is  represented  as  a  veiled  woman  ; 
the  KdkvTrTfM  fUkaivri  was  supported  by  a  sort  of  cock's-comb,  Kopa^,  and 
the  partial  concealment  of  the  features  was  thought  even  in  those  day& 
to  be  an  ornament  (Strabo,  iii.  164).  Thus  Poppasa,  according  to 
Tacitus,  managed  her  veil  quia  sic  decebat.  The  cara  tupida  or  tapada, 
or  face  so  enveloped,  was  always  respected  in  Spain,  and  even  Messalina 
shrouded  under  the  mantle  of  modesty  her  imperial  adulteries.  The 
Gothic  rrumtum  so  called,  says  S".  Isidore  {Or,  xix.  24),  quia  manus 
tegat  tantum,  was  made  of  a  thickish  cloth,  as  it  was  among  the  Cartha- 
ginians (see  the  Mantilia  of  Dido,  JEn,  iv.  705),  whence  the  Moorish 
name  Mantil,  The  Mantilla,  an  elegant  diminutive  of  the  Manto^  i& 
now  made  of  silk  or  lace ;  formerly  it  was  substituted  by  the  coarse 
petticoat  among  the  lower  classes,  who,  like  Sancho  Panza*s  wife,  turned 
them  over  their  heads  from  pure  motives  of  economy.  In  fact,  as  in  the 
East,  the  head  and  face  of  the  female  were  seats  of  honour,  and  never  to 
be  exposed ;  accordingly,  by  a  decree  of  Philip  IV.,  a  woman's  mantiUcf 


112  XXIV.   SPANISH  MANTILLA.  ScCt.  L 

could  not  be  seized  for  debt,  not  even  in  case  of  the  crown.  From  being 
the  essential  article  of  female  gear,  the  manto  has  become  a  generic 
term,  and  has  given  its  name  to  our  milliners,  who  are  called  mantuu- 
makers.^ 

There  are  three  kinds  of  mantillas,  and  no  lady  can  properly  do  without 
a  complete  set :  first  the  white,  used  on  grand  occasions,  birth-days, 
bull-fights,  and  Easter  Mondays,  and  is  composed  of  fine  blonde  or  lace 
embroidery ;  yet  it  is  not  becoming  to  Spanish  women,  whose  sallow  olive 
complexion  cannot  stand  the  contrast,  so  that  Adrian  compared  one  thus 
dressed  to  a  sausage  wrapt  up  in  white  paper.  The  second  is  black, 
made  of  raso  or  alepm,  satin  or  bombazeen,  often  edged  with  velvet,  and 
finished  off  with  deep  lace  fringe.  The  third,  used  on  ordinary  occa- 
sions, and  by  the  Fancy,  and  called  Mantilla  de  tira,  has  no  lace,  but 
is  made  of  black  silk  with  a  broad  band  of  velvet.  This,  the  veil  of  the 
Maja,  the  Oitana,  peculiarly  becomes  their  eye  of  diamond  and  their 
locks  of  jet.  The  Mantilla  used  to  be  suspended  on  a  high  comb, 
peineta,  and  then  crossed  over  the  bosom,  which  is,  moreover,  concealed 
by  a  panuelo,  or  handkerchief.  These  are  the  "  hoods  and  ushers  "  of 
Hudibras,  and  without  them,  unless  the  house  was  on  fire,  no  woman 
formerly  would  go  out  into  the  streets,  and  indeed  when  thus  enveloped 
nothing  can  be  more  decent  than  the  whole  upper  woman ;  matroncs 
prceter  faciem  nil  cemere  posses.  The  smallest  display  of  the  neck,  &c., 
ot  patriotismo,  is  thought  over-liberal  and  improper,  and  one  of  the  great 
secrets  of  a  Spanish  woman's  attraction  is,  that  most  of  her  charms  are 
hidden. 

The  Mantilla  is  kept  in  its  proper  place  by  the  fan,  aMnico,  which  is 
part  and  parcel  of  every  Spanish  woman,  whose  nice  conduct  of  it  leaves 
nothing  to  be  desired.  No  one  understands  the  art  and  exercise  of  it,  the 
manejo,  like  her :  it  is  the  index  of  her  soul,  the  telegraph  of  her  chame- 
lion  feelings,  her  signal  to  the  initiated,  which  they  understand  for  good 
or  evil  as  the  wagging  of  a  dog's  tail.  She  can  express  with  her  dumb 
fan  more  than  Paganini  could  with  his  fiddlestick.  A  handbook  might 
be  written  to  explain  the  code  of  signals.  Kemember  not  to  purchase 
any  of  the  old  Rococo  fans  which  will  be  offered  for  sale  at  Cadiz  and 
Seville  as  Spanish,  being  however  all  made  in  France ;  the  prices  asked 
are  exorbitant,  for  which  foolish  English  collectors  may  thank  them- 
selves. There  are  more  and  better  of  these  fans  to  be  had  in  Wardour- 
street  than  in  all  Andalucia,  and  for  a  quarter  of  the  money. 

The  Ma/ntilla,  properly  speaking,  ought  not  to  be  worn  with  curls, 
rizos,  recently  introduced  by  some  French  perruquiers;  these  are 
utterly  unsuited  to  the  melancholy  pensive  character  of  the  Spanish 
female  face  when  in  repose,  and  particularly  to  her  Moorish  eyes,  which 
never  passed  the  Pyrenees ;  indeed,  first-rate  amateurs  pronounce  the 
real  ojos  ardbes,  like  the  palm-tree,  to  be  confined  to  certain  localities. 
The  finest  are  "  raised  "  in  Andalucia ;  they  are  very  lull,  and  repose 
on  a  liquid  somewhat  yellow  bed,  of  an  almond  shape. 

The  Spanish  hair  is  the  glory  of  the  sex ;  herein,  like  Samson's,  is 

the  secret  of  her  strength,  for,  if  Pope  be  infallible,  "  Her  beauty  draws 

us  by  a  single  hair  " — Sancho  Panza  says  more  than  a  hundred  oxen. 

It  is  very  black,  thick,  and  often  coarser  than  a  courser's  tail,  especially 

'th  the  lower  classes  ;  nourished  by  copious  larding^  and  undwarfed 


Spmn.  XXIV.  SPANISH  CAPA.  113 

by  caps,  it  grows  like  the  "  bush,"  and  occasionally  becomes  the  well- 
stocked  preserve  of  ca^a  menor,  which  afford  constant  sport  and  occupa- 
tion to  most  picturesque  groups  a  la  MurUlo, 

The  hair  of  the  better  classes  is  attended  to  with  the  greatest  care, 
and  is  simply  braided  a  la  Madonna  over  a  high  forehead.  The  Iberian 
ladies,  reports  Strabo  (iii.  248),  were  very  proud  of  the  size  of  this 
palace  of  thought,  and  carefully  picked  out  the  irpoKo/xta,  the  superfluous 
items,  to  increase  its  dimensions.  The  Andaluza  places  a  real  flower, 
generally  a  rose  or  a  red  pink,  among  her  raven  locks ;  the  children 
continue  to  let  long  Carthaginian  plaited  Trensa  hang  down  their  backs. 
There  are  two  particular  curls  which  deserve  serious  attention :  they  are 
circular  and  flat,  and  are  fastened  with  white  of  egg  to  the  side  of  each 
cheek :  they  are  called  PatiUas  or  Picardias,  Rogueries — Caracoles  de 
Amor — the  French  accroches  coeur,  "  springes  to  catch  woodcocks." 
These  are  Oriental.  Some  female  mummies  have  been  discovered  with 
their  patillas  perfectly  preserved  and  gummed  on  after  3000  years :  the 
ruling  passion  strong  in  death  (Wilk.  ii.  370).  The  Spanish  she-Goths 
were  equally  particular.  S".  Isidoro  (Or.  xix.  31)  describes  some  curls, 
ancice,  with  a  tact  which  becomes  rather  the  Barhiere  de  Sevilla  than 
its  archbishop.  When  an  Andaluza  turns  out  with  her  hair  dressed  in 
its  best,  she  is  capable,  like  Eoxalana,  of  upsetting  empires,  trastomar 
el  mundo. 

Thus  much  for  our  fair  readers ;  one  word  now  on  the  chief  item  of 
male  costume  in  Spain.  The  cloak,  capa,  is  to  man  what  the  saya  and 
'inantitta  are  to  woman.  The  Spaniards  represent  the  gens  togata  of 
antiquity,  and  their  capa  is  the  unchanged  Paenula,  Teficwa,  This 
emblem  of  civilization  and  symbol  of  Roman  influence  was  introduced 
into  Spain  by  Sertorius,  who,  by  persuading  the  natives  to  adopt  the 
dress,  soon  led  them  to  become  the  admirers,  then  subjects,  of  Rome — 
Cedent  arma  togce.  The  Andalucians  (Strabo,  iii.  264)  were  among  the 
first  to  follow  this  foreign  fashion.  They  gloried  in  their  finery  like  the 
Germans,  not  seeing  in  this  livery,  as  Tacitus  did,  a  real  badge  of  the 
loss  of  national  independence — "  Inde  habitus  nostri  honor,  et  frequens 
toga,  idque  apud  imperitos,  humanitas  vocabatur,  cum  pars  cervitutis 
esset."  Much  the  same  case  is  now  going  on  with  French  bonnets  and 
English  coats ;  the  masses  of  Spaniards  have  never  left  oflf  their  cloaks 
and  jackets.  This  jacket,  the  ancient  x'to>v»  tunica,  synthesis,  was 
worn  by  the  Carthaginians  (Plant.  Poen,  v.  2),  just  as  it  is  now  by  the 
Moors.  The  Spaniards  live  in  jackets,  they  are  the  "  tunicatus  pr(h 
peUics  "  of  Europe.  Augustus  Caesar,  who,  according  to  Suetonius,  was 
chilly,  wore  as  many  as  Hamlet's  gravedigger  does  waistcoats.  Fer- 
dinand VII.,  the  week  before  his  death,  who  gave  a  farewell  audience  to 
a  foreign  minister  in  a  jacket,  died  in  harness :  like  him  and  Caesar, 
Spaniards,  when  in  the  bosom  of  their  families,  seldom  wear  any  other 
dress.  0  ttmicata  guies  1  exclaims  Martial  (x.  51) ;  nor  can  anything 
ever  exceed  the  comfort  of  a  well-made  Zamarra,  a  word  derived  from 
Simiir — mustela  Scythica,  The  merit  and  obvious  origin  of  this  sheep- 
skin costume  account  for  its  antiquity  and  unchanged  usage.  S". 
Isidoro  (Or.  xix.  24)  calls  it paUium,  apeUe, 

The  capa  is  cut  in  a  peculiar  manner  and  rounded  at  the  bottom  ;  the 
circumference  of  the  real  and  correct  thing  is  seven  yards  all  but  three 


114  XXIV.  SPANISH  CLOAK.  Sect.  I* 

inches  and  a  half:  "&^s  ter  ulnarum  toga.  As  cloaks,  like  coats,  are 
cut  according  to  a  man's  cloth,  a'  scanty  capa^  like  the  "  toga  arcta  '*  of 
Horace,  does  not  indicate  affluence  or  even  respectability.  S".  Isidoro 
did  well  to  teach  his  Goths  that  their  toga  was  a  tegendo,  because  it 
concealed  the  whole  man,  as  it  does  now,  and  well,  provided  it  be  a 
good  one ;  una  huena  capa,  todo  tapa.  It  covers  a  multitude  of  sins,, 
and  especially  pride  and  poverty — the  twin  sisters  of  Iberia.  The 
ample  folds  and  graceful  drapery  give  breadth  and  throw  an  air  of 
stately  decency — nay,  dignity— over  the  wearer ;  it  not  only  conceals 
tatters  and  nakedness,  but  appears  to  us  to  invest  the  pauper  with  the 
abstract  classicality  of  an  ancient  peripatetic  philosopher,  since  we  never 
see  this  costume  of  Solons  and  Cassars  except  in  the  British  Museum. 
A  genuine  Spaniard  would  sooner  part  with  his  skin  than  his  capa ; 
thus  when  Charles  III.  wanted  to  prohibit  their  use,  the  people  rose  in 
arms,  and  the  Squillacci,  or  anti-cloak  ministry,  was  turned  out.  The 
capa  fits  a  Spaniard  admirably  ;  it  favours  habits  of  inactivity,  prevents 
the  over-zealous  arms  or  elbows  from  doing  anything,  conceals  a  knife 
and  rags,  and,  when  muffled  around,  offers  a  disguise  for  intrigues  and 
robbery;  capa  yespada  accordingly  became  the  generic  tenn  for  the 
profligate  comedy  which  portrayed  the  age  of  Philip  IV. 

The  Spanish  clergy  never  appear  in  public  without  this  capa,  and 
the  readers  of  the  Odyssey  need  not  be  reminded  of  the  shifts  to  which 
Ulysses  was  put  when  "  he  left  his  cloak  behind."  St.  Paul  was 
equally  anxious  about  his,  when  he  wrote  his  Second  Epistle  to 
Timothy ;  and  Kaphael  has  justly  painted  him  in  the  cartoon,  when 
preaching  at  Athens,  wearing  his  cloak  exactly  as  the  Spanish  people 
do  at  this  moment.  Nothing  can  appear  more  ludicrous  to  a  Spanish 
eye  than  the  scanty,  narrow,  capeless,  scapegrace  cloaks  of  English  cut : 
the  wearer  of  one  will  often  see  the  lower  classes  grinning,  without 
knowing  why.  They  are  staring  at  his  cloak,  its  shape,  and  way  of 
putting  it  on.  When  a  stranger  thinks  that  he  is  perfectly  incognito^ 
he  is  pointed  out  to  the  very  children,  and  is  the  observed  of  all 
observers.  All  this  is  easily  prevented  by  attention  to  a  few  simple 
mles.  No  one  can  conceive  the  fret  and  petty  continual  worry  to 
which  a  stranger  is  exposed  both  from  beggars  and  the  impertinente 
curioso  tribe  by  being  always  found  out ;  it  embitters  every  step  he 
takes,  mars  all  I)rivacy,  and  keeps  up  a  continual  petty  fever  and  ill- 
humour. 

A  wise  man  will  therefore  get  his  cloak  made  in  Spain,  and  by  a 
Spanish  tailor,  and  the  more  like  that  most  generally  worn  the  better. 
He  may  choose  it  of  blue  colour,  and  let  the  broad  hem  or  stripe  be 
lined  with  black  velvet ;  red  or  fancy  colours  and  silks  are  muy  charro, 
gaudy  and  in  bad  taste  :  he  mrist  never  omit  a  cape — dengue  esdavina, 
whence  our  old  term  sclaveyn.  A  capa  without  a  cape  is  like  a  cat 
without  a  tail.  As  the  clerical  capa  is  always  black,  and  distinguished 
from  the  lay  one  by  its  not  having  a  cape.  Whenever  an  Englishman 
comes  out  with  a  blue  cloak  and  no  cape,  it  appears  quite  as  ludicrous 
to  Spanish  eyes  as  to  see  a  gentleman  in  a  sack  or  in  a  red  cassock.  It 
is  applying  a  form  of  cut  peculiar  only  to  clergymen  to  colours  which 
are  only  worn  by  laymen.  Having  got  a  correct  capa,  the  next  and 
not  less  important  step  is  to  know  how  to  wear  it ;  the  antique  is  the 


Spain.  XXIV.  how  to  put  it  on.  11^ 

true  model ;  either  the  capa  is  allowed  to  hang  simply  down  from  the 
shoulders,  or  it  is  folded  in  the  emhozo,  or  a  lo  majo :  the  emhozar  con- 
sists in  taking  up  the  right  front  fold  and  throwing  it  over  the  left 
shoulder,  thus  muffling  up  the  mouth,  while  the  end  of  the  fold  hangs- 
half  way  down  the  hack  behind;  it  is  difficult  to  do  this  neatly, 
although  all  Spaniards  can  ;  for  they  have  been  practising  nothing  else 
from  the  age  of  breeches,  as  they  assume  the  toga  almost  when  they 
leave  off  petticoats.  No  force  is  required ;  it  is  done  by  a  knack,  a 
sleight  of  hand :  the  cloak  is  jerked  over  the  shoulder,  which  is  gently 
raised  to  meet  and  catch  it ;  this  is  the  precise  form  of  the  ancients^ 
the  apafiaXKco'dai  of  Athenaeus  (i.  18),  The  Goths  wore  it  in  the  same 
manner  {S^-  Isidore,  Or.  xix.  24).  When  the  emhozo  is  arranged,  two- 
fingers  of  the  right  hand  are  sometimes  brought  up  to  the  mouth  and 
protrude  beyond  the  fold  :  they  serve  either  to  hold  a  cigar  or  to  tele- 
graph a  passing  friend.  It  must  be  remembered  by  foreigners  that,  as- 
among  the  ancient  Eomans  (Suet,  in  Claudy  vi.),  it  is  not  considered 
respectful  to  remain  embozado  on  ceremonious  occasions.  Uncloaking  is- 
equivalent  to  taking  ofif  the  hat ;  Spaniards  always  uncloak  when  Su 
Majestad,  the  host  or  the  king,  passes  by,  the  lower  orders  uncloak 
when  speaking  to  a  superior  :  whenever  the  traveller  sees  one  not  do  that 
with  hirrij  let  him  he  on  his  gv>ard,  Spaniards,  when  attending  a  funeral 
service  in  a  church,  do  not  rend,  but  leave  their  cloaks  at  home  behind 
them  :  the  etiquette  of  mourning  is  to  go  without  their  capa.  As  this- 
renders  them  more  miserable  than  fish  out  of  water,  the  manes  of  the 
deceased  must  necessarily  be  gi-atified  by  the  sincerity  of  the  sorrow  of 
his  surviving  and  shivering  friend. 

The  majo  fashion  of  the  wearing  the  cloak,  is  that  which  is  adopted 
by  the  chvlos  when  they  walk  in  procession  around  the  arena,  before 
the  bull-fight  commences.  It  is  managed  thus  :  take  the  right  front 
fold,  and  whip  it  rapidly  under  the  left  elbow,  pressing  down  at  tho 
same  time  the  left  elbow  to  catch  it ;  a  sort  of  deep  bosom,  the  ancient 
umbo,  sinus,  is  thus  fonned,  and  the  arms  are  left  at  liberty.  The- 
celebrated  Aristides  at  Naples  is  cloaked  somewhat  in  this  fashion.  We 
strongly  advise  the  newly  arrived  traveller  to  get  his  tailor  or  some 
Spaniard  just  to  give  him  a  few  lessons  how  to  perform  these  various 
evolutions ;  without  this  he  will  never  pass  in  a  crowd.  If  he  puts 
his  cloak  on  awkwardly  he  will  be  thought  a  quiz,  which  is  no  element 
of  success  in  society.  Everybody  knows  that  Cicero  adopted  the  cause 
of  Pompey  in  preference  to  that  of  Caesar — because  he  concluded,  from 
the  unintellectual  manner  in  which  the  future  dictator  wore  his  cloak, 
that  he  never  could  turn  out  to  be  a  great  man.  Caesar  improved  as- 
he  grew  older,  when  nothing  fidgeted  him  more  than  any  person's  dis- 
turbing the  peace  of  his  sinus  (Suet.  82,  and  see  the  note  ot  Pitiscus) ;. 
and,  lifee  the  Egyptian  ladies'  curls,  the  ruling  passion  was  strong  in 
his  death,  for  he  arranged  his  cloak  as  his  last  will  and  deed.  Cata 
and  Virgil  were  laughed  at  for  their  awkward  togas ;  no  Englishman 
can  pass  for  a  great  man  in  Spain,  unless  his  Spanish  valet  thinks  so* 
when  he  is  cloaked. 

The  better  classes  of  Spaniards  wear  the  better  classes  of  cloth.  The 
lower  continue  to  cover  their  aboriginal  sheepskin  with  the  aboriginal 
cloth.     The  fine  wools  of  Spain — ^an  ancient  Merino  sold  in  Strabo's- 


116  XXIV.   SPANISH  CLOTH.  Sect.  I. 

time  for  a  talent  (iii.  213) — ^produced  a  corresponding  article,  insomuch 
that  these  Hispance  coccince  were  the  presents  which  the  extravagant 
Chloe  gave  her  lover  (Mart.  iv.  27).  The  poor  were  contented  then, 
as  now,  with  a  thick  double  cloth,  the  **  duplex  pannus^*  of  poverty 
and  patience  (Hor.  1  Ep.  xvii.  25),  and  it  was  always  made  from  the 
brown  undyed  wool ;  and  there  are  always  several  black  sheep  in  every 
Spanish  flock,  as  in  all  their  cortes  and  juntas.  Their  undyed  wools 
formed  the  exact  LacemcB  Boeticoe  (Martial,  xiv.  133),  and  the  best  are 
still  made  at  Grazalema.  The  cloth,  from  the  brown  colour,  is  called 
"  pano  pardo"  This  is  the  mixed  red  rusty  tint  for  which  Spain  was 
renowned — ^^ferrugine  clarus  Iberd;^^  among  the  Goths  the  colour  was 
simply  called  "  Spanish,"  just  as  our  word  drab,  incorrectly  used  as  a 
colour,  was  originally  taken  from  the  French  drap,  cloth,  which  hap- 
pened to  be  undyed.  Drab  is  not  more  the  livery  of  our  footmen  and 
Quakers,  than  "  brown  "  is  of  Spain,  whether  man  or  mountain — gente 
or  Sierra  Morena.  The  Manchegans  especially  wear  nothing  but 
jackets  and  breeches  of  this  stuff  and  colour,  and  well  may  their  king 
call  his  royal  seat  **  elpardo,^*  Their  metaphors  are  tinctured  with  it. 
They  call  themselves  the  "  browns,"  just  as  we  call  the  Africans  the 
blacks,  or  modem  Minervas  the  blues  :  thus  they  will  say  of  a  shrewd 
peasant — ^Yorkshire — "  Mas  sabe  con  su  grammatica  parda  que  no  el 
escribano ;"  he  knows  more  with  his  brown  grammar  than  the  attorney. 
The  pane  pardo  is  very  thick,  not  only  to  last  longer,  but  because  the 
cloak  is  the  shield  and  buckler  of  quarrelsome  people,  who  wrap  it 
round  the  left  arm.  The  assassins  of  Cassar  did  the  same,  when  they 
rushed  with  their  bloody  daggers  through  frightened  Rome  (App.  B,  G. 
ii.  503).  Caesar  himself,  when  in  danger  at  the  battle  of  Lerida,  did 
the  same  thing  {Bell.  Civ.  i.  67).  The  Spaniards  in  the  streets,  the 
moment  the  sharp  click  of  the  opened  knife  is  heard,  or  their  adversary 
stoops  to  pick  up  a  stone,  whisk  their  cloaks  round  their  left  arms  with 
marvellous  and  most  classical  rapidity.  Petronius  Arbiter  (c.  30)  de- 
scribes them  to  the  life — "  Intorto  circum  brachium  pallio  composui  ad 
prseliandum  gradum."  There  is  no  end  to  Spanish  proverbs  on  the 
cloak.  They  wear  it  in  summer  because  it  keeps  out  heat ;  in  winter 
because  it  keeps  out  cold.  Por  sol  que  haga,  ne  dejes  tu  capa  en  casa-^ 
the  common  trick  upon  a  traveller  is  to  steal  his  cloak.  Del  Andaluz 
guarda  tu  capuz.  A  cloak  is  equivalent  to  independence,  debajo  mi 
manto,  veo  y  cantOy  1  laugh  in  my  sleeve ;  and,  even  if  torn  and  tat- 
tered, it  preserves  its  virtue  like  that  of  San  Martin ;  debajo  de  una  capa 
rota,  hay  buen  bebidor — there  is  many  a  good  drinker  under  a  bundle 
of  rags. 

The  Spaniards  as  a  people  are  remarkably  well  dressed ;  the  lower 
orders  retain  their  peculiar  and  picturesque  costume ;  the  better  classes 
imitate  the  dress  of  an  English  gentleman,  and  come  nearer  to  our  ideas 
of  that  character  than  do  most  other  foreigners.  Their  sedate  lofty  port 
gives  that  repose  and  quiet  which  is  wanting  to  our  mercurial  neigh- 
bours. The  Spaniard  is  proud  of  himself,  not  vain  of  his  coat ;  he  is 
cleanly  in  his  person  and  consistent  in  his  apparel ;  there  is  less  of  the 
*'  diamond  pins  in  dirty  shirts,"  as  Walter  Scott  said  of  some  conti- 
nental exquisites.  Not  that  the  genus  dandy,  the  PoUo,  does  not  exist 
in  Spain,  but  he  is  an  exotic  when  clad  in  a  coat.    The  real  dandy  is 


Spain.  XXIV.   SPANISH  LOVE  OF  DRESS.  117 

tbe  "  majOf*^  in  his  half-Moorish  jacket.  The  elegant,  in  a  long-tailed 
**A«;«>"  is  a  bad  copy  of  a  bad  imitation — a  London  cockney,  filtered 
through  a  Boulevard  badaud.  These  harmless  animals,  these  exquisite 
vegetables,  are  called  Uchuginos,  which  signifies  both  a  sucking  pig  and 
a  small  lettuce.  The  Andalucian  dandies  were  in  the  war  called 
paqtieteSf  because  they  used  to  import  the  last  and  correct  thing  from 
England  by  the  packet-boat.  Such  are  the  changes,  the  ups  and 
downs,  of  coats  and  countries.  Now  the  Spaniards  look  to  us  for 
models,  while  our  ancestors  thought  nothing  came  up 

*'  To  the  refined  traveller  from  Spain, 
A  man  in  all  the  world's  new  fashions  planted ! " 

The  variety  of  costumes  which  appear  on  the  Spanish  public  ala^ 
medas  renders  the  scene  far  gayer  than  that  of  our  dull  uniform  walks ; 
the  loss  of  the  parti-coloured  monks  will  be  long  felt  to  the  artist. 
The  gentlemen  in  their  capas  mingle  with  the  ladies  in  their  Tnantillas. 
The  white-kilted  Valencian  contrasts  with  the  velveteen  glittering  An- 
dalucian ;  the  sable-clad  priest  with  the  soldier  ;  the  peasant  with  the 
muleteer  :  all  meet  on  perfect  equality,  as  in  church,  and  all  conduct 
themselves  with  equal  decorum,  good  breeding,  and  propriety.  Few 
Spaniards  ever  walk  arm-in-arm,  and  still  less  do  a  Spanish  lady  and 
gentleman — scarcely  even  those  whom  the  holy  church  has  made  one. 
There  is  no  denial  to  which  all  classes  and  sexes  of  Spaniards  will  not 
cheerfully  submit  in  order  to  preserve  a  respectable  external  appear- 
ance. This  formed  one  of  the  most  marked  characteristics  of  the  Ibe- 
rians, who,  in  order  to  display  magnificence  on  their  backs,  pinched 
their  bellies.  The  ancient  Deipnosophists  (Athen.  ii.  6 ;  Strabo,  iii. 
232),  who  preferred  lining  their  ribs  with  good  capons,  rather  than 
their  cloaks  with  ermine,  wondered  at  the  shifts  and  starvation  endured 
by  poor  gentlemen  in  order  to  strut  about  in  rich  clothes,  and  forms  one 
of  the  leading  subjects  of  wit  in  all  their  picaresque  novels  :  "  silks 
and  satins  put  out  the  kitchen  fire,"  says  poor  Richard.  Spaniards, 
even  the  wealthy,  only  really  dress  when  they  go  out,  and  when  they 
come  home  return  to  a  dishabille  which  amounts  to  dowdiness.  Those 
who  are  less  affluent  carefully  put  by  their  out-of-door  costume,  which 
consequently,  as  in  the  East,  lasts  for  many  years,  and  forms  one 
reason,  among  many  others,  why  mere  fashions  change  so  little :  an- 
other reason  why  all  Spaniards  in  public  are  so  well  dressed  is,  that, 
unless  they  can  appear  as  they  think  they  ought,  they  do  not  go  out  at 
all.  In  the  far-spread  poverty  many  families  remain  at  home  during 
the  whole  day,  thus  retiring  and  presenting  the  smallest  mark  for  evil 
fortune  to  peck  at.  They  scarcely  stir  out  for  weeks  and  months ; 
adversity  produces  a  keener  impatience  of  dishonour  than  was  felt  in 
better  days,  a  more  morbid  susceptibility,  an  increased  anxiety  to 
withdraw  from  those  places  and  that  society  where  a  former  equality 
can  no  longer  be  maintained.  The  recluses  steal  out  at  early  dawn  to 
the  missa  de  madrugada,  the  daybreak  mass,  which  is  expressly  cele- 
brated for  the  consolation  of  all  who  must  labour  for  their  bread,  all 
who  get  up  early  and  lie  down  late,  and  that  palest  and  leanest  form  of 
poverty,  which  is  ready  to  work  but  findeth  none  to  employ.  When 
the  sad  congregation  have  offered  up  their  petition  for  relief,  they 


118  XXV.   HINTS  ON  CONDUCT.  Scct.  I. 

return  to  cheerless  homes,  to  brood  in  concealment  over  their  fallen 
fortunes.  At  dusky  nightfall  they  again  creep,  bat-likej  out  to  breathe 
the  air  of  heaven,  and  meditate  on  new  schemes  for  hiding  the  morrow's 
•distress. 

XXV. — Hints  on  Conduct — ^Dbess — Creed — ^Visitino — ^Modes  of 

Address,  &c. 

In  conclusion  and  recapitulation,  a  few  hints  may  be  useful  to  the 
stranger  in  Spain  as  to  conduct.  The  observance  of  a  few  rules  in  a 
<x)untry  where  "  manners  maketh  man  "  will  render  the  traveller's 
path  one  of  peace  and  pleasantness.  First  and  foremost,  never  forget 
that  the  Spaniard  is  of  a  very  high  caste,  and  a  gentleman  by  innate 
aristocracy ;  proud  as  Lucifer  and  combustible  as  his  matches,  he  is 
punctilious  and  touchy  on  the  point  of  honour ;  make  therefore  the 
lirst  advances,  or  at  least  meet  him  a  little  more  than  half  way ;  treat 
him,  be  his  class  what  it  may,  as  a  CabaUero,  a  gentleman,  and  an  old 
and  well-bom  Christian  one,  Cristiano  viefo  y  rancio,  and  therefore  as 
your  equal.  When  his  self-esteem  and  personal  sensitiveness  are  thus 
once  conciliated,  he  is  quick  to  return  the  compliment,  and  to  pay 
every  deference  to  the  judicious  stranger  by  whom  he  is  put  in  his 
proper  place  ;  all  attempt  to  bully  and  browbeat  is  loss  of  time,  as  this 
stiff-necked,  obstinate  people  may  be  turned  by  the  straw  of  courtesy, 
but  are  not  to  be  driven  by  a  rod  of  iron,  still  less  if  wielded  by  a 
foreigner,  to  despise  whom  is  the  essense  of  nationality  or  Espanolismo. 
It  need  scarcely  be  said,  in  a  land  so  imbued  with  Orientalisms,  that 
the  greatest  respect  is  to  be  paid  to  the  fair  sex  for  its  own  sake,  what- 
ever be  woman's  age,  condition,  or  appearance — ^nor  will  love's  labour  be 
lost.  On  landing  "at  Calais,  the  sooner  May  fair  is  wiped  out  of  the  tablets 
of  memory  the  better,  nor  can  any  one,  once  in  Spaiu,  too  constantly 
remember  to  forget  England.  How  few  there,  or  indeed  any  where  on 
the  Continent,  sympathise  with  our  wants  and  habits,  or  understand  our 
love  of  truth  and  cold  water ;  our  simple  manly  tastes  ;  our  contempt 
for  outward  show  compared  to  real  comfort;  our  love  of  exercise, 
adventure,  and  alternate  quiet,  and  of  all  that  can  only  be  learnt  at  our 
public  schools.     Your  foreigner  has  no  Winchester  or  Eton. 

Civil  words  and  keeping  out  of  mischiefs  way  arev  everywhere  the 
best  defence.  Never  grudge  wearing  out  a  hat  or  two  by  touching  it  or 
taking  it  off;  this  is  hoisting  the  signal  of  truce,  peace,  and  good  will ; 
the  sensitive  Spaniard  stiffens  when  hats  are  not  off,  and  bristles  up  like 
a  porcupine  against  the  suspicion  of  a  desaire.  Be  especially  polite  to 
officials,  from  the  odious  custom-house  upwards ;  it  is  no  use  kicking 
against  the  powers  that  be ;  if  you  ruffle  them  they  can  worry  you, 
by  a  relentless  doing  their  duty :  these  nuisances  are  better  palliated 
by  honey  than  vinesjar  ;  and  many  of  the  detentions  and  difficulties  of 
our  unwise  travellers  are  provoked  by  uncourteous  demeanor,  and 
growlings  in  a  tongue  as  unknown  to  the  natives  as  the  Englishman 
was  to  Portia — "  He  understands  not  me,  nor  I  him."  Dismiss  the 
nonsense  of  robbers  from  your  head,  avoiding,  however,  all  indiscreet 
exhibition  of  tjempting  baits,  or  chattering  about  your  plans  and 
Tiovements.  By  common  preparation  mere  footpads  are  baffled :  to 
tempt  resistance  against  an  organised  band  is  sheer  folly :  do  not 


Spain.  XXV.  HINTS  ON  COSTUME.  119 

mix  yourself  with  Spanish  politics  or  civil  wars  —  leave  them  to 
exterminate  each  other  to  their  liking,  like  Kilkenny  cats.  Avoid 
logomachies,  or  trying  to  convince  the  natives  against  their  will ;  it  is 
arguing  against  a  north-east  wind,  and  a  sheer  loss  of  time,  too ;  for, 
in  a  fine,  indolent  climate,  where  there  is  little  to  do — no  liberty  of 
press  or  circulating  libraries — the  otiose  twaddlers  spin  Castilian  non- 
sense by  the  yard.  Mind  your  own  business,  and  avoid  things  that  do 
not  concern  you,  taking  especial  care  not  to  intermeddle. 

In  the  large  towns  the  costume  of  an  English  gentleman  is  the  best ; 
avoid  all  semi-bandit,  fancy-ball  extravagances  in  dress  ;  hoist,  indeed, 
British  colours  there  as  everywhere.  Thin  cashmere  or  cuhica  is  far 
preferable  to  cloth,  which  is  intolerable  in  the  hot  weather.  Pay  daily 
visits  to  Figaro,  and  carefully  eschew  the  Brutus  beards,  and  generally, 
everything  which  might  lead  the  bulk  of  Spaniards  to  do  you  the 
grievous  injury  of  mistaking  your  native  country.  A  capa  or  cloak 
used  to  be  absolutely  essential,  and  is  so  out  of  Madrid,  paletots  not- 
^vithstanding :  and  how  much  in  appearance  and  in  health  have  those 
Spaniards  lost,  who,  like  the  Turks,  ape  the  externals  of  foreign 
civilization;  how  skimpy  and  pigmy  and  common-place  they  look 
stripped  of  their  ample  folds :  let  your  cloak  be  of  plain  blue  colour, 
faced  with  black  velvet.  Remember  to  get  it  made  in  Spain,  or  it  will 
not  be  cut  full  enough  to  be  able  to  be  worn  as  the  natives  do  :  take 
particular  care  that  it  has  a  cape,  dengue^  esdavina,  imless  you  wish  t^ 
be  an  object  of  universal  attention  and  ridicule ;  and  mind  to  let  your 
tailor  give  you  a  few  lessons  how  to  put  it  on  like  a  Spaniard,  and  to 
show  you  the  different  modes  of  muffling  up  the  face,  a  precaution 
necessary  in  the  Castiles,  where  the  cold  airs,  if  inhaled,  bring  on 
sudden  and  dangerous  ptUmonia,  This  artificial  respirator  keeps  out 
both  the  assassin  breath  of  cold,  and  the  salitrose  dust.  No  English- 
made  capa  can  be  properly  embozada,  that  is,  have  its  right  fold  thrown 
over  the  mouth  and  left  shoulder,  descending  neatly  half-way  down 
the  back.  Our  cloaks  are  much  too  scanty,  no  tien&n  hastante  vuelo. 
In  the  conduct  of  cloaks,  remember,  when  you  meet  any  one,  being 
yourself  emhozado  or  muffled  up,  to  remove  the  folds  before  you  address 
him,  as  not  to  do  so  is  a  great  incivility  :  again,  when  strangers  con- 
tinue to  speak  to  you  thus  cloaked,  and  as  it  were  disguised,  be  on  your 
guard. 

Take  great  care,  when  actually  travelling,  to  get  the  passport 
refrendado  y  corriente  in  time,  and  to  secure  long  beforehand  places  in 
the  public  conveyance.  Carry  the  least  possible  luggage  you  can, 
never  forgetting  that  none  is  so  heavy  and  useless  in  Spain  as  precon- 
ceived prejudices  and  conventional  foregone  conclusions,  although  of 
genuine  London  or  Paris  manufacture.  When  you  arrive  at  the  place 
of  your  destination,  if  you  wish  to  do  or  see  anything  out  of  the 
common  way,  call  on  the  jefe  politico,  or  comandante  de  armas,  or  chief 
authority,  to  state  frankly  your  object,  and  request  his  permission. 
For  travelling,  especially  on  riding  tours  and  in  all  out-of-the-way 
districts,  adopt  the  national  costume  of  the  road ;  to  wit,  the  peaked 
hat,  Sombrero  gacTw,  calanes,  the  jacket  of  fur,  the  Zamarray  or  the 
one  of  cloth,  the  Marselles ;  the  grand  object  is  to  pass  incog,  in  the 
crowd,  or  if  noticed,  to  be  taken  for  a  native.    You  will  thus  avoid 


120  XXV.   HINTS  ON  CHURCH  MATTERS.  Sect.  I. 

being  the  observed  of  all  observers,  and  a  thousand  other  petty  annoy- 
ances which  destroy  privacy  and  ruffle  temper.  You  may  possibly 
thus  escape  the  beggars,  which  are  the  plague  of  Spain,  and  have  a 
knack  of  finding  out  a  stranger,  and  of  worrying  and  bleeding  him 
as  effectually  as  the  mosquitos.  The  regular  form  of  uncharitable 
rejection  is  as  follows : — Perdone  V,  ( Usted)  por  Dios,  JSermano  ? — 
My  brother,  will  you  excuse  me,  for  God's  sake  ?  If  this  request  be 
gravely  said,  the  mendicant  gives  up  hope  of  coppers.  Any  other 
answer  except  this  specific  one,  only  encourages  importunity,  as  the 
beggars  either  do  not  believe  in  the  reality  of  the  refusal,  or  see  at 
once  that  you  are  not  a  Spaniard,  and  therefore  never  leave  off,  until  in 
despair  you  give  them  hush-money  to  silence  their  whine,  thus  bribing 
them  to  relieve  you  from  the  pleasure  of  their  company. 

Ladies  will  do  well  to  adopt  the  national  and  most  becoming  man- 
tiHa,  although  in  large  towns  the  hideous  bonnet  is  creeping  in.  They 
must  also  remember  that  females  are  nojt  admitted  into  churches  except 
in  veils ;  black  also  used  to  be  the  correct  colour  for  dress.  Spanish 
women  generally  seat  themselves  on  the  pavement  when  at  prayers ; 
it  is  against  all  ecclesiastical  propriety  for  a  lady  and  gentleman,  even 
man  and  wife,  to  walk  about  arm  in  arm  in  a  church.  Spaniards,  on 
passing  the  high  altar,  always  bow ;  beware  of  talking  during  mass, 
when  the  ringing  of  a  little  bell  indicates  the  elevation  of  the  Host,  and 
the  actual  presence  of  the  incarnate  Deity.  It  is  usual  to  take  off  hats 
and  kneel  when  the  consecrated  wafer  is  carried  by  in  the  streets ;  and 
those  Protestants  who  object,  should  get  out  of  the  way,  and  not  offend  the 
weaker  brethren  by  a  rude  contempt  of  their  most  impressive  ceremonial. 

Protestants  should  observe  some  reserve  in  questions  of  creed, 
and  never  play  tricks  with  the  faith  or  the  eye ;  con  el  qfo  y  la  /e, 
nunca  me  hurlare.  There  is  no  sort  of  religious  toleration  in  Spain, 
where  their  belief  is  called  la  Fe,  and  is  thought  to  be  the  faith,  and 
the  only  true  one.  You  may  smile,  as  Spaniards  do,  at  a  corpulent 
canon,  and  criticise  what  he  practises,  but  take  care  to  respect  what  he 
preaches.  You  will  often  be  asked  if  you  are  a  Christian,  meaning  a 
Eoman  Catholic ;  the  best  answer  is,  Cristiano,  si,  JRomano  Catolico, 
no.  Distributors  of  Protestant  tracts  will  labour  in  vain,  and  find  that 
to  try  to  convert  a  Spaniard  is  but  waste  of  time.  The  influence  of 
the  Voltaire  school  with  the  propagandism  of  revolution  and  atheism, 
has  sapped  much,  both  of  the  loyalty  and  religion,  of  the  old 
Castilian ;  but  however  the  cause  of  the  Vatican  may  be  injured,  that 
of  Protestantism  is  little  advanced :  for  there  is  no  via  media,  no  Bible 
in  Spain  ;  Deism  and  infidelity  are  the  only  alternatives,  and  they  are 
on  the  increase.  The  English  are  thought  to  have  no  faith  at  all, — to 
believe  neither  in  the  Pope  or  Mahomet,  but  in  gold  and  cotton  alone  ; 
nor  is  this  to  be  wondered  at  in  Spain,  where  they  have  no  ostensible 
religion ;  no  churches  or  churchyards ;  no  Sundays  or  service,  except 
as  a  rare  chance  at  a  seaport  in  some  consul's  parlour.  Being  rich, 
however,  and  strong,  they  escape  the  contumely  poured  out  in  Spain  on 
poor  and  weak  heretics,  and  their  cash  is  respected  as  eminently  catholic. 

Conform,  as  nearly  as  you  can,  to  the  hours  and  habits  of  the  natives, 
get  up  early,  which  is  usual  throughout  Spain ;  dine  or  rest  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  for  when  everybody  is  either  at  table  or  the  siesta,  it  is  no  use 


Spain.  XX  7.  hints  ox  conduct.  121 

to  be  ranning  about  sight-seeing  when  you  are  the  only  person  awake. 
On  all  occasions  pay  with  both  hands ;  most  locks  in  Spain  are  to  be 
picked  with  a  silver  key,  and  almost  every  difiBculty  is  smoothed  by  a 
properly  administered  bribe,  and  how  small  an  additional  per  centage  on 
the  general  expenditure  of  a  tour  through  Spain  is  added  by  such  trifling 
outlays  !  Never  therefore,  cross  the  Pyrenees  to  wage  a  guerrilla  warfare 
about  shillings  and  half-crowns.  N.B.  Have  always  plenty  of  small  sil- 
ver coins,  for  which  great  is  the  amount  of  peace,  good  will,  and  having 
your  own  way,  to  be  purchased  in  Spain,where  backshish,  as  in  the  East,  is 
the  universal  infallible  "  open  sesame^''  and  most  unanswerable  argument. 
A  Spanish  proverb  judiciously  introduced  always  gives  pleasure,  nor 
need  you  ever  fear  ofifering  your  cigar  case,  petacay  to  any  Spaniard, 
still  less  if  your  tobacco  be  of  the  legitimate  Havana ;  for  next  to 
pesetas,  rank  cigars,  as  popular  instruments  of  waxing  in  the  favour  of 
Iberian  man,  and  making  him  your  obedient  servant. 

When  on  a  riding  journey,  attend  to  the  provend ;  take  a  mosquitero 
or  musquito  net,  and  some  solution  of  ammonia,  the  best  antidote  to 
their  stings ;  avoid  all  resistance  to  robbers  when  overmatched ;  keep 
your  plans  and  movements  secret ;  never  rub  your  eyes  except  with 
your  elbows,  los  qfos  con  los  codos,  but  use  hot  water  to  them  frequently, 
or  a  lotion  of  calomel  and  rose-water ;  never  exercise  them  in  prying 
about  barracks,  arsenals,  and  citadels,  and  still  less  in  sketching  any- 
thing connected  with  military  and  national  defences,  which  are  after  all 
generally  but  beggarly  shows  of  empty  boxes. 

Letters  of  Introduction  are  desirable^  In  cities,  where  a  lengthened 
stay  is  contemplated,  their  utility  is  obvious.  They  may  be  procured 
and  taken  on  tours  and  excursions,  but  need  not  always  be  presented. 
Of  service  in  cases  of  difficulties,  they  involve  otherwise  much  loss  of 
precious  time  in  visits  and  in  formal  intercourse  with  strangers,  whom 
one  never  saw  before  and  may  never  meet  again ;  and  for  your  life  avoid 
being  carried  off  from  the  posada  to  a  hospitable  native's  house,  if 
freedom  and  taking  "  ease  in  mine  own  inn  "  have  any  charms. 

In  choice  of  lodgings,  especially  in  winter,  secure  upper  floors  which 
have  a  southern  aspect.  The  sun  is  the  fire-place  of  Spain,  and  where 
his  vivifying  rays  enter,  the  doctor  goes  out ;  and,  dear  reader,  if  you 
value  your  life,  avoid  the  sangrados  of  Spain,  who  wield  the  shears  of 
the  fatal  sisters.  Fly  also,  from  the  hrasero,  the  pan  of  heated  charcoal, 
the  parent  of  headache  and  asphixia ;  trust  rather  to  additional  clothing 
than  to  charcoal,  especially  to  flannel ;  keep  your  feet  warm  and  the  head 
cool,  by  avoiding  exposure  to  midday  sun  and  midnight  bottle :  above  all 
things,  carry  not  the  gastronomies  of  the  cold  north  into  the  hot  south. 
Live  as  the  natives  do,  consuming  little  meat  and  less  wine ;  sleep  the 
midday  siesta  as  they  do,  and  avoid  rash  exposure  to  the  delicious  cool 
night  breezes.  Sleep  high,  avoiding  the  ground  floor,  as  the  poisonous 
Malarias  of  fine  climates  creep  on  earth,  and  more  so  by  night  when  they 
are  condensed,  than  by  day ;  throw  physic  to  the  dogs,  avoiding  con- 
stipation and  trusting  to  diet  and  quiet ;  a  blue  or  a  rhubarb  dinner  pill 
generally  will  suffice.  Cod  liver  oil  may  as  well  be  taken  out  by 
consumptive  travellers,  as  it  is  dear,  indifferent,  and  rare  in  Spain. 

Next  to  the  Spanish  bandit  and  doctors,  with  whom  your  purse  or 
life  are  in  danger,  avoid  investments  in  Spanish  insecurities.    Nothing 

Spain, — I.  <* 


122  XXV.  VISITING  FORMS.  Sect.  I. 

a  **  shop-keeper  nation  "  justly  dislikes  more  than  a  fraudulent  bank- 
rupt or  a  stock  exchange  repudiator  :  it  is  safer  to  buy  our  Three  per 
Cent  Beduced  at  100,  than  Spanish  Five  per  Cents,  at  35. 

When  you  have  letters  of  introduction  to  any  Spaniards,  both  ladies 
and  gentlemen  should  be  very  particular  in  being  well  dressed  on  the 
first  visit  of  etiquette :  black  is  the  correct  colour  of  ceremony.     Call 
yourself  with  your  credentials.    Ladies  should  come  in  a  carriage,  as 
venido  en  coche  is  a  mark  of  respect.    If  the  parties  called  upon  be  out, 
leave  your  credentials  and  card,  writing  on  the  comer  of  the  latter  E,  P., 
which  means  en  persona.    When  you  ring  at  the  door,  probably  an 
unseen  person  will  exclaim,  "  Quien  esf*     "Who's  there?"     The 
correct  countersign  is,  "  Gente  de  paz,"  "  Persons  of  peace."    As  the 
first  visit  is  always  formal,  observe  how  you  are  treated,  and  practise 
the  same  behaviour  exactly  when  the  call  is  returned.    You  will  be 
conducted  to  the  best  room,  the  sola  de  estradoy  and  then  led  up  to  the 
sofa,  and  placed  on  the  right  hand.    Very  great  care  will  be  paid,  or  in 
our  time  used  to  be  paid,  to  your  hat — type  of  grandeeship — which  a 
well-bred  Spaniard  seizes  and  seats  on  a  chair  as  if  it  were  a  person :  be 
careful  to  pay  this  compliment  always  to  your  visiting  friend's  beaver. 
When  you  get  up  to  take  leave,  if  of  a  lady,  you  should  say,  "  A  los  pies 
de  V.  (ti8ted)f  Senora,^*  "My  lady,  I  place  myself  at  your  feet;"  to 
which  she  will  reply,  "  Beso  a  V,  la  mano,  CahaUero,^^  "  I  kiss  your 
hand.  Sir  Knight :"  "  Vdya  F.  con  Dios,  que  F.  lo  pose  hien,^^  "  May 
you  depart  with  God,  and  continue  well ;"  to  which  you  must  reply, 
"  Quede  F.  con  Dies  y  la  Virgen,^^  "  May  you  remain  with  God  and  the 
Virgin."    Ladies  seldom  rise  in  Spain  to  receive  male  visitors ;  they 
welcome  female  ones  with  kisses  both  at  coming  and  going.  A  gentleman 
must  beware  how  he  offers  to  shake  a  Spanish  lady's  hand,  as  it  is  never 
done,  except  when  the  hand  is  offered  for  better  or  worse ;  it  disarranges 
her  mantilla ;  nor  should  he  give  her  his  arm  when  out  walking.    On 
leaving  a  Spaniard's  house,  observe  if  he  thus  addresses  you,  "  Mta  casa 
estd  muy  a  la  disposicion  de  F.  cuando  gtiste  favorecerla,^^  "  This  house  is 
entirely  at  your  disposal,  whenever  you  please  to  favour  it."    Once  thus 
invited,  you  become  a  friend  of  the  family,  una  de  nosotros,  de  lafamilia. 
If  the  compliment  be  omitted,  it  is  clear  that  the  owner  never  wishes  to 
see  you  again,  and  is  equivalent  to  an  affront.    When  a  lady  makes  a 
visit,  a  well-bred  host  hands  her  down  stairs  to  the  door  of  her  carriage, 
taking  her  by  the  hand ;  but  properly  no  pressure  is  admissible,  although 
such  things  have  occurred.     Remember  always  to  pay  a  visit  of  cere- 
mony to  your  male  and  female  friends  on  their  birthdays,  or  el  dia  de 
su  santo,  and  to  attend  to  your  costume  and  put  on  your  best  black :  on 
New  Year's  day  bring  some  small  gift  with  you,  as  an  estrena.    If, 
when  you  call,  are  admitted,  and  a  Spanish  lady  happens  to  be  alone, 
you  should  not  shut  the  door,  as  according  to  the  laws  of  all  social  pro- 
priety it  must  be  left  open,  or  at  least  ajar.    In  walking  with  a  Spaniard, 
if  you  wish  to  show  him  respect,  take  care  to  let  him  be  inside  of  the 
two,  tu  comes  exterior :  the  same  nicety  of  relative  position  should  be 
observed  in  seating  him  on  a  sofa  or  in  a  carriage.     A  well-bred  man 
always  when  he  meets  a  lady  makes  way  for  her,  passing  outside ; 
although  the  strict  rule  in  street-walking,  which,  from  their  narrowness 
and  the  nice  point  of  honour  of  touchy  passengers,  has  been  well  defined. 


Spain.  XX7.  forms  of  ooubtesy.  123 

is  tbat  whoever  has  the  wall  on  his  or  her  right  hand  is  entitled  to 
keep  it. 

On  passing  soldiers  on  duty,  remember  that  the  challenge  of  a  Spanish 
sentry  is  "  Quien  vive  V*  The  answer  is  **  Espaiia."  Then  follows 
"  Que  gente  f "  The  answer  is  "  Paisano,"  The  sooner  and  clearer 
strangera  answer  the  better,  as  silence  rouses  suspicion ;  and  in  Spain  a 
shot  often  precedes  any  explanation. 

When  you  meet  your  Spanish  friends,  stop,  uncloak,  uncover,  and 
attend  carefully  to  the  whole  process  of  greetings  in  the  market-placo. 
These  things  are  not  done  there  in  our  curt  and  ofif-hand  How  are 
you  ?  way.  You  must  inquire  after  the  gentleman's  own  health,  that  of 
his  wife  (como  estd  mi  Senora  la  esposa  de  F.),  his  children,  et  cetera, 
and  then  you  will  be  thought  to  be  a  hombre  tan  formal  y  cumplido 
como  nosotros,  that  is,  as  well-bred  as  a  Spaniard.  If  wben  walking 
with  a  Spaniard  you  pass  your  own  house,  do  not  fail  to  ask  him  whether 
he  will  not  step  in  and  untire  himself  a  little,  "  No  quiere  V,  entrar  en 
€sta  8U  casa,  y  descansarse  tm  ratito  ?"  You  beg  him  to  come  into  ^«, 
not  your  house,  for  thus  you  offer  it  to  him. 

This  offering  obtains  throughout.  If  a  Spaniard  admire  anything 
belonging  to  another,  his  friend  instantly  places  it  at  his  disposal,  estd 
Tnuy  a  la  disposicion  de  V.  The  proper  reply  is  a  bow,  and  some  sort 
of  speech  like  this :  Oractas,  esta  muy  bien  empHeado,  or  Oracia>8,  no 
puede  mejorarse  de  dueno.  Thanks,  it  is  already  in  excellent  hands ; 
it  cannot  better  its  master  by  any  change.  In  like  manner,  and  espe- 
cially  when  outside  cities,  if  any  Spaniards  pass  by  when  you  are  lunch- 
ing, picnicking,  or  eating,  never  fail  to  invite  them  to  share  your  meal, 
by  saying,  Qusten  ustedes  comber f  will  your  graces  be  pleased  to  dine? 
To  omit  this  invitation  is  a  flagrant  breach  of  the  laws  of  hospitality ; 
nor  is  it  always  a  mere  compliment  on  their  part,  for  every  class  of 
Spaniard  is  flattered  if  you  will  partake  of  their  fare.  However,  it  is  safer 
to  decline  with  the  set  speech,  Muchas  gracias^  buenprovecho  le  haga  d 
nstedes,  Never  at  all  events,  in  this  or  on  other  occasions,  omit  these 
titular  compliments.  Phrases  and  forms  of  address  are  exjAnents  of 
national  character,  and  how  superb  is  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of 
these  swelling  semi-Orientals ;  here  every  beggar  addresses  a  brother 
mendicant  as  SenoTy  Don,  and  CdbaUerOy  as  a  lord  or  knight.  As  all 
are  peers,  all  are  "  Vuestra  Merced,*^  "  Your  Grace,"  which,  when  not 
expressed  in  words,  is  understood  and  implied  by  the  very  grammar,  as 
the  mode  of  addressing  in  the  third  person,  instead  of  in  our  curt  second 
"  you,"  has  reference  to  an  implied  title.  In  towns  there  is  scarcely 
any  dinner  society,  and  luckily ;  nor  is  such  an  invitation  the  usual 
compliment  paid  to  a  stranger,  as  with  us.  Spaniards,  however,  although 
they  seldom  bid  a  foreigner,  will  accept  his  bidding.  It  is  necessary, 
however,  to  "  press  them  greatly ;"  for  the  correct  national  custom  is  to 
decline.  Kemember  also  to  apply  a  gentle  violence  to  your  guest,  to 
induce  him  to  eat,  and  if  you  are  dimng  with  him,  let  your  stomach 
stretch  a  point ;  for  unless  you  over-eat  yourself,  he  will  fancy  that 
you  do  not  like  his  fare.  He  will  assuredly  heap  up  your  mess  most 
profusely,  for,  as  in  the  East,  where  dinners  are  scarce,  quantity  is  the 
delicate  mark  of  attention.  It  was  in  our  time  by  no  means  imusual 
for  strangers,  after  eating  ices  or  taking  coffee  at  a  public  caf^,  to  find, 
when  they  went  to  pay,  that  the  bill  had  already  been  discharged  by 

g2 


1 24  XXV.    MODES  OF  ADDRESS.  Sect  I. 

some  unkuown  Spaniard.  Accordingly,  if  you  see  friends  of  yours  thus 
refreshing  themselves,  pretty  ladies  for  instance  with  whom  you  wish 
to.  stand  well,  you  may  privately  t«ll  the  waiter  that  you  will  be 
answerable  for  their  account.  It  is  very  easy  afterwards,  when  you 
meet  with  your  fair  friends,  to  let  them  infer  who  was  their  unknown 
benefactor.  It  was  sometimes  rather  dangerous  to  accompany  an  ex- 
travagant Andaluza  out  shopping,  a  las  tiendaSy  as  a  well-bred  man  of 
the  old  Spanish  school  was  bound  never  to  allow  her  to  pay  for  anything. 
This  custom,  however,  has  got  somewhat  obsolete  since  the  French 
invasion,  good  money  and  manners  having  become  considerably  scarcer 
in  consequence  of  that  visitation. 

All  Spaniards,  however,  are  still  prodigal  to  each  other  in  cheap 
names  and  titles  of  honour  ;  thus  even  beggars  address  each  other  as 
Seiior  y  CdbaUero^  Lord  and  Knight.  The  most  coveted  style  is  ExceU 
Uncia,  your  Excellency,  or,  as  it  is  pronounced,  Vuesenda,  and  it  only 
belongs  to  grandees  and  men  in  highest  office.  The  next  is  Vuestra 
Senoria,  your  Lordship,  of  which  the  abbreviated  form  is  Usia ;  this 
belongs  to  titulos  de  CastiUay  to  men  who  are  titled,  but  not  grandees. 
It  is,  however,  very  seldom  used,  except  by  the  lower  classes,  who, 
when  they  want  to  toady  an  Englishman,  will  often  say,  For  vida  del 
demonic  mas  sahe  Usia  que  nosotros — ^by  the  devil's  life,  your  Lordship 
knows  more  than  we  do  ;  which,  if  a  traveller  has  this  Handbook,  is 
very  likely  to  be  the  fact,  as  the  natives  generally  know  nothing.  The 
common  form  of  YOu  is  Usted ;  vuestra  merced,  your  grace.  It  is 
generally  written  simply  V.,  or  in  older  books  V™d.  If  you  do  not 
know  a  Spaniard's  Christian  name,  it  is  well-bred  to  insert  the  de,  the 
German  Von.  Thus  Senor  de  Munoi  is  the  appellation  of  a  gentleman ; 
8e7wr  Mimoz  that  of  a  nobody.  When  the  Christian  name  is  used 
with  the  title  Don  (Dominus,  Lord),  this  Don  becomes  exactly  equi- 
valent to  our  knightly  Sir,  and  never  must  be  prefixed  to  the  patro- 
nymic by  itself.  Thus  you  must  say  Don  Hernando  Munoz,  and  not 
Don  Muiioz,  which  sounds  as  ridiculous  and  ignorant  to  Spanish  ears 
as  Sir  Peel  does  to  ours. 

Spaniards,  when  intimate,  generally  call  each  other  by  their  Christian 
names,  and  a  stranger  may  live  among  them  and  be  known  to  all  the 
town  as  "  Don  Bicardo,"  without  half  a  dozen  persons  in  it  being  aware 
of  what  his  patronymic  is.  The  custom  of  tutear — the  endearing 
tutoyer,  unusual  in  England  except  among  quakers,  is  very  prevalent 
among  familiar  friends,  and  is  habitual  among  grandees,  who  consider 
each  other  as  relatives,  primosty  cousins. 

The  forms  of  letter-writing  differ  also  from  ours.  The  correct  place 
of  dating  from  should  be  de  esta  su  casa,  from  this  your  house,  wherever 
it  is ;  you  must  not  say  from  this  my  house,  as  you  mean  to  place  it  at 
the  disposition  of  your  correspondent ;  the  formal  Sir  is  Muy  Senor 
mio ;  My  dear  Sir,  is  Muy  Senor  mio  y  de  todo  mi  aprecio ;  My  dear 
Friend,  is  Mi  apreciaUe  amigo :  a  step  more  in  intunacy  is  querido 
amigo  and  quertdo  Don  Juan,  All  letters  conclude  after  something  in 
this  fsishion-^uedando  en  el  interin  S.  S,  S*  [su  seguro  servidor] 
Q,  S.  M,  B.  [que  su  mano  hesa\  This  represents  our  "  your  most 
obedient  and  humble  servant ;"  a  more  friendly  form  is  **  Mande  Vmd. 
con  toda  franqueza  a  ese  S,  8,  S,  y  amigo  a/^no.  Q^  s,  M,  j5."    AVhen 

lady  is  in  the  case,  P  [pies}  is  substituted  for  M,  as  the  gentleman 


(S 


Spain.  XXV.  modes  of  address,  etc.  125 

kisses  her  feet.  Ladies  sign  sw  servidora  y  amiga ;  clergymen,  8u  S,  S, 
y  capeilan ;  nulitary  men  seldom  omit  their  rank.  Letters  are  gene- 
rally directed  thus : — 

Al  Sefior, 

Don  Fulano  Apodo 

B.  L.  M. 

as. 

R.  F. 
Most  Spaniards  append  to  their  signature  a  Ruhrica,  which  is  a  sort 
of  intricate  flourish,  like  a  Runic  knot  or  an  Oriental  sign-manual. 
The  sovereign  often  only  rubricates,  as  Don  Quixote  did  in  the  matter 
of  the  jackasses :  then  his  majesty  makes  his  mark,  and  does  not  sign 
his  name. 

The  traveller  is  advised  at  least  to  visit  and  observe  the  objects 
pointed  out  in  the  following  pages,  and  never  to  be  deterred  by  any 
Spaniard's  opinion  that  they  are  "  not  worth  seeing."  He  should  not, 
however,  neglect  looking  at  what  the  natives  consider  to  be  worth  a 
foreigner's  attention.  As  a  sight-seeing  rule  in  towns,  make  out  a  list 
of  the  lions  you  wish  to  see,  and  let  your  lacquey  de  place  arrange  the 
order  of  the  course-,  according  to  localities,  proper  hours,  and  getting  pro- 
per permissions.  As  a  general  habit  ascend  towers  in  towns  to  under- 
stand topography;  visit  the  Plazas  and  chief  markets  to  notice  local  fishes, 
fowls,  fruits,  and  costumes — these  are  busy  sites  and  scenes  in  this 
idle,  unbusiness-like  land ;  for  as  Spaniards  live  from  hand  to  mouth, 
everybody  goes  there  every  day  to  buy  their  daily  bread,  &c.,  and 
when  nightfall  comes  the  royal  larder  is  as  empty  as  that  of  the  poorest 
venta — and  then,  as  elsewhere,  be  more  careful  of  keeping  your  good 
temper  than  sixpences :  never  measure  Spanish  things  by  an  English 
standard,  nor  seek  for  motes  in  bright  eyes,  nor  say  that  all  is  a 
wilderness  from  Burgos  to  Bailen,  Scout  all  imaginary  dismals,  dangers, 
and  difficulties,  which  become  as  nothing  when  manfully  met,  and 
especially  when  on  the  road  and  in  vewto.  View  Spain  and  the  Spaniard 
e^i  couUeur  de  rose,  and  it  will  go  hard  if  some  of  that  agreeable  tint  be 
not  reflected  on  such  a  judicious  observer,  for,  like  a  mirror,  he  returns 
your  smile  or  fi-own,  your  courtesy  or  contuniely  ;  nor  is  it  of  any  use 
going  to  Rome  if  you  quarrel  with  the  Pope.  Strain  a  point  or  two 
therefore,  to  "  make  things  pleasant."  Little,  indeed,  short'of  fulsome 
flattery,  will  fully  satisfy  the  cormorant  cravings  of  Spanish  self-love 
and  praise  appetite ;  nay,  facts  and  truths,  when  told,  and  still  more, 
,  when  printed,  by  a  foreigner,  are  set  down  as  sheer  lies,  libels,  or  ab- 
*  surdities — mentiras  y  dispirates ;  and  are  attributed  to  the  ignorance  and 
jealousy  of  the  rest  of  mankind,  all  conspired  to  denigrate  "  Spain,  the 
first  and  foremost  of  nations."  Remember,  also,  that  "  to  boast  of 
their  strength  is  the  national  weakness ;"  and  the  Spaniards,  in  their 
decrepitude,  talk  and  swagger  as  if  Charles  V.  still  wielded  their  sceptre, 
and  as  if  their  country — ^blotted  from  the  map  of  Europe — were  the 
terror,  the  envy, and  admiration  of  the  whole  world :  whatever,  therefore, 
we  may  think  and  know  to  the  contrary,  it  is  generally  the  most  pru- 
dent and  polite  to  smile  and  pass  silently  on,  like  Milton,  con  volto 
schiolto  e  pensieri  stretti.     Con  qui,  huen  viaje  I 

— -—  '*  Si  quid  novisti  rectins  istis 
Candidus  imperti,  si  non  —his  utere  mecxim.' 


(     126    ) 


Sect.  ir. 


SECTION  n. 


ANDALUCIA. 


CONTENTS.— INTRODUCTORY  INFORMATION. 

Eiugdom  of  Andalucia ;  its  Histoiy  and  Geography ;  Character  of  the  People  ; 

Language  and  Country ;  Skeleton  Tours. 


rAOE 


BOXTTE  1. — ENGLAND  TO  CADIZ  .      130 

Cape  St.  Yincent;  Cadiz;  Bay  of  Cttdiz; 
Isla  de  Leon. 

BOFTE  2. — CADIZ  TO  GIBRALTAB    142 

BarroBa;  Trafalgar;  The  Straits;  Tarifa; 
Algedras;  Carteia. 

BOTTTB  3. — CADIZ    TO    SEVILLE  BY 
STEAM 163 

San  Lucar ;  the  Gnadalqaivir. 

BOrTE  4. — CADIZ  TO  SEVILLE  by 

JjAitd 155 

Xerez ;  wines ;  Utrera;  AlcaU  de  Gnadaira. 

B0T7TE   5. — ^XEBEZ  TO  SEVILLB  .      161 

B0UTE6. — SANLXrOABTOPOBTUGAL  162 
Hogner;  Lepe;  Normans  in  Spain. 


PAGR 
B0rTB7. — SANLUCABTOPOBTTTGAL  165 
Niebia;  shooting ;  Goto  del  Rey. 

SEVILLE 166 

Excursion  to  Italica 212 

BOUTE  8.— A  MINING  TOUB   .      .      216 
Rio  Tinto ;  Araoena;  Llerena ;  Almaden. 

BOITTE  9. — SEVILLE  TO  MADBID   .     221 

Carmona;  Ec^a;  Cordova;  And^Jar;  Bai- 
len ;  Navas  de  Tolosa ;  La  Mancha ;  Val- 
depeiias;  Ocaila;  Arai^ez. 

BOITTE  10. — ^VALDEPENAS  TO  CIXTDAD 
BEAL 246 

BOTJTE  11. — SEVILLE  TO  BADAJOZ     248 

Zafira. 

BOITTE  12. — SEVILLE  TO  BADAJOZ     249 
Albnera. 


ANDALIJCIA. 

The  kingdom  or  province  of  Andalucia,  in  fadlity  of  access  and  objects  of 
interest,  must  take  precedence  oyer  all  others  in  Spain.  It  is  the  Tarshish  of 
the  Bible,  the  "  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth,"  to  which  Jonah  wished  to  flee. 
This  "  ultima  terrse "  was  called  Tartessus  in  the  uncertain  geography  of  the 
ancients,  who  were  purposely  kept  mystified  by  the  jealous  Phoenician  merchant 
princes,  who  had  no  notions  of  n-ee  trade.  This  vague  general  name,  Tarshish, 
uke  our  Indies,  was  appHed  sometimes  to  a  town,  to  a  nyer,  to  a  locality  ;  but 
when  the  Ilomans,  after  the  fiedl  of  Carthage,  obtained  an  undisputed  possession 
of  the  Peninsula,  the  S.  of  Spain  was  caUed  Bsetica,  from  the  riyer  Beetis,  the 
Guadalquivir,  which  intersects  its  fairest  portions.  At  the  Gothic  invasion  this 
proyince,  and  part  of  Barbary,  was  oyerrun  by  the  Vandals,  whence  some  assert 
that  both  sides  of  the  straits  were  called  by  the  Moors  Vandalucia,  or  JBeMd- 
al-Andaloshf  the  territory  of  the  Vandal ;  but  in  the  word  Andalosh,  the  land 
of  the  West  (Hesperia),  a  sounder  etymology  may  be  found.    Here,  at  all 


Dok 

a — 


u^ 


fe 


^ 


..  Sect 


Andalnda.  pbotincial  chabacteb.  127 

events,  at  the  fidl  of  the  Gfothic  role,  as  in  a  congenial  soil,  the  Oriental  took 
onoe  more  the  deepest  root,  and  left  the  noblest  traces  of  power,  taste,  and 
intelligence,  which  centuries  of  apathy  and  neglect  haye  not  entirely  effaced — 
here  he  made  his  last  desperate  struggle.  ' 

The  Moorish  divisions  into  Los  Cuatro  ReinoSy  the  "Four  Kingdoms," 
viz.  Seville,  Cordova,  Jaen,  and  Ch'anada,  still  designate  territorial  divisions, 
which  occupy  the  S.  extremity  of  Spain  ;  they  are  defended  from  the  cold  N. 
table-lands  by  the  barrier  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Morena — a  corruption  of 
the  Montes  Marianos  of  the  Romans,  and  not  referring  to  the  tawny-hrotion 
colour  of  its  siunmer  hortus  siccus  garb.  The  four  kingdoms  contain  about 
8283  square  L,  composed  of  mountain  and  valley ;  the  grand  productive  locality 
is  the  biEtsin  of  the  Chiadalquivir,  which  flows  under  the  Sierra  Morena.  To  the 
S.E.  rise  the  moimtains  of  Bonda  and  Chranada,  which  sweep  down  to  the  sea. 
As  their  summits  are  covered  with  eternal  snow,  while  the  sugar-cane  ripens  at 
their  bases,  the  botanical  range  is  inexhaustible :  these  sierras  fuso  are  absolutely 
marble  and  metal-pregnant.  The  cities  are  of  the  highest  order  in  Spain,  in  re- 
spect to  the  fine  arts  imd  objects  of  general  interest,  while  Gibraltar  is  a  portion 
of  England  herself.  Andalucia  is  admirably  suited  to  our  invaUds ;  here  winter, 
in  our  catph-cold  acceptation  of  the  term,  is  unknown.  The  genial  climate 
forms,  indeed,  one  of  the  multitudinous  boasts  of  the  natives,  who  pride  them- 
selves on  this  **  happy  accident"  thus  lavished  on  them  by  r  iture,  as  if  the 
bright  skies  were  a  making  and  merit  of  their  own.  Justly  lough  did  the 
ancients  place  their  Elysian  fields  amid  these  go][den  orange  grov  < ;  these  were 
alike  the  seats  of  "  the  blessed,  the  happy,  and  long-Hved  "  of  A  icreon,  as  the 
homes  of  the  rich  and  powerful  of  Holy  Writ.  These  fovou  hI  regions,  the 
sweetest  morsel  of  the  Feninstda,  have  always  been  the  prize  i  prev  of  the 
strong  man,  no  less  than  the  theme  of  poets  ;  and  the.  ^  ians,  m>m  the 

remotest  periods  of  history,  have  been  more  celebrated  7    '  'd  intellectual 

qualities  than  for  the  practical  and  industrial.    They  bx  iered  by  their 

countrymen  to  be  the  Qasoons,  the  boasters  and  braggarts  c  'ain ;  and  cer- 
tainly, from  the  time  of  Livy  (xxxiv.  17)  to  the  present,  tl  are  the  most 
*'  imbeUeSy^  imwarlike,  and  immilitary.  It  is  in  peace  and  its  j*ts  that  these 
gay,  good-humoured,  light-hearted  children  of  a  genial  atmosphere  excel ;  thus 
their  authors  revived  literature,  when  the  Augustan  age  ditd  at  Bome,  as 
during  the  darkest  periods  of  European  barbarism,  Cordova  v^as  the  Athens 
of  the  west,  the  seat  of  arts  and  science.  Again,  when  the  sui  of  Raphael  set 
in  Italy,  painting  here  arose  in  a  new  form  in  the  Velazque  Murillo,  and 
Cano  school  of  Seville,  the  finest  of  the  Peninsula. 

The  Oriental  imagination  of  the  Andaludans  colours  everytning  up  to  their 
bright  sun.  Their  exaggeration,  pondercunan,  or  giving  weight  to  nothings, 
converts  their  molehills  into  mountains ;  all  their  geese  are  swans ;  invincible  at 
the  game  of  brag,  their  credulity  is  commensurate,  and  they  end  in  even  believ- 
ing their  own  li^.  Everything  with  them  is  either  in  the  superlative  or  diminu- 
tive. Nowhere  will  the  stranger  hear  more  frequently  those  talismanic  words 
which  mark  the  national  ignoramus  character — No  se  aahcy  no  se  puede^  con- 
formcy  the  "  I  don't  know ;"  "  I  can't  do  it ; "  "  That  depends ; "  the  Maiiana, 
pasado  mananoy  the  "To-morrow  and  day  after  to-morrow ;"  i  e  Boukray  hal- 
houJcray  of  the  procrastinating  Oriental.  Their  8dbe  DioSy  the , "  Q-od  knows," 
is  the  "  Salem  AUah  "  of  the  Moors.  Here  remain  the  Bakalum  or  VeremoSy 
"We  will  see  about  it ;"  the  Pek-^yi  or  muy  bieny  "  Very  well ;  "  and  the  In- 
shallah,  si  Dios  quierey  the  "  If  the  Lord  will  j "  the  Ojalay  or  wishing  that 
God  would  do  their  woric  for  them,  the  Moslem's  Inxo-Allahy  the  old  appeal 
to  Hercules.  In  a  word,  here  are  to  be  found  the  besetting  sins  of  the 
Oriental  $  his  indifferenoe,  procrastination,  tempered  by  a  religious  reeignati^ 


128  THE  MAJO.  Sect.  II. 

to  Providence.    The  natiyes  are  superstitious  and  great  worshippers  of  the 
Virgin.     Their  proyince  is  her  chosen  land,  La  tierra  de  la  Santisimay  and  prac' 
tieally  the  female  worship  of  Astarte  still  exists  in  the  universal  absolute  Mari- 
olatry  of  the  masses,  however  differently  the  Koman  Catholic  religion  may  be 
understood  theoretically  by  the  esoteric  and  enlightened.      SevUle  was  the 
head-quarters  of  the  dispute  on  the  Immaculate  Conception,  by  which  Spain  was 
convulsed.    The  Andalucians  are  also  remarkable  for  a  reliance  on  supernatural 
aid,  and  in  all  circumstances  of  difficulty  call  upon  their  tutelar  patrons,  with 
which  every  town,  church,  and  parish  is  provided.    Yet,  if  proverbs  are  to  be 
trusted,  little  moral  benefit  has  been  the  result  of  their  religious  tendencies.   Al 
Andaluz  cata  la  Cruz  {caia/r  is  the  old  Spanish  for  mirar) — "  Observe  how  the 
semi-Moor  Andalucian  makes  his  cross."     JDel  Andaluz  guarda  tu  capa  y 
cap«2;;.keep  a  look-out  after  your  cloak  and  other  chattels.    In  no  province 
have  smugglers  and  robbers  (convertible  terms)  been  longer  the  weed  of  the  soil. 
In  compensation,  however,  nowhere  in  Spain  is  el  trato,  or  friendly  and  social 
intercourse,  more    agreeable    than    in    this  pleasure-loving,  work-abhorring 
province.     The  native  is  the  gracioso  of  the  Peninsula^  a  term  given  in  the 
playbills  to  the  cleverest  comic  actor.    Both  the  graciay  wit,  and  elegance,  and 
the  sal  Andaluza  are  proverbial.    This  salt^  it  is  true,  cannot  be  precisely  called 
Attic,  having  a  tendency  to  gitanesque  and  tauromachian  slang,  but  it  is  almost 
the  national  language  of  the  smuggler^  bandit,  hull-fighter,  da/ncer,  and  Majo^ 
and  who  haa  not  heard  of  these  worthies  of  Baetica  P^the  fame  of  Contra' 
handista,  Ladron,  Torero,  Bailarin,  and  Mojo,  has  long  scaled  the  Pyrenees, 
while  in  the  Peninsula  itself,  such  persons  and  pursuits  are  the  rage  and  dear 
delight  of  the  young  and  daring,  of  all  indeed  who  aspire  to  be  sporting  cha- 
racters.   Andalucia  the  head-quarters  of  the  *'  &ncy,"  or  (ificion,  is  the  cradle 
of  the  most  eminent  professors,  who  in  the  other  provinces  become  stars, 
patterns,  models,  and  the  envy  and  admiration  of  their  applauding  countrymen. 
The  provincial  dress,  extremely  picturesque,  is  that  of  Figaro  in  our  theatres ; 
and  whatever  the  merits  of  tailors  and  miUiners,  Nature  has  lent  her  hand  in 
the  good  work  :  the  male  is  cast  in  her  happiest  mould,  tall,  well-grown,  strong, 
and  sinewy  ;  the  female,  worthy  of  her  mate,  often  presents  a  form  of  matchless 
symmetry,  to  which  is  added  a  peculiar  and  most  &scinating  air  and  action. 
The  Mc0o  is  the  dandy  of  Spain.    The  etymology  of  this  word  is  the  Arabic 
Major,  brilliancy,  splendour,  jauntiness  in  walk,  qualities  which  are  exactly 
expressed  in  the  costume  and  bearing  of  the  character.    He  glitters  in  velvets, 
filigree  buttons,  tags,  and  tassels ;  his  dress  is  as  gay  as  his  sun ;  external  ap- 
pearance is  indeed  all  and  everything  with  him.    This  love  of  show,  hoato,  is 
by  some  derived  from  the  Arabic  "  shouUng  ;  "  as  his  fiivourite  epithet,  bizarro, 
"distinguished,"  is  from  the  Arabic  bessard,  "elegance  of  form,"    The  word 
mqjo  again,   means  an  out-and-out  swell,    somewhat  of  the  "tiger,"   muy 
Janfaron ;     fanfaronade  in  word  and  thing  is  also  Moorish,  as  fa/nfar  and 
hinchar  both  signify  to  " distend"  and  are  applied  in  the  Arabic  and  in  the 
Spanish  to  la^  narices,  the  inflation  of  the  barb's  nostrils,  and,  in  a  secondary 
meaning,  to  pretencion,  puffed  out  pretention.    The  Majo,  especially  if  crudo^ 
or  boisterous  and  raw,  is  fond  of  practical  jokes ;  his  outbreaks  and  "  larks  " 
are  still  termed  in  Spanish  by  their  Arabic  Tisanes,  jarana,jaleOf  i,  e.  khalara^ 
**  waggishness." 

The  lively  and  sparkling  aemi-Moro  Andalucian  is  the  antithesis  of  the  grave 
and  decorous  old  Gotho-Castilian,  who  looks  down  upon  him  as  an  amusing 
but  undignified  personage.  He  smiles  at  his  harlequin  costume  and  tricks  as  he 
does  at  his  peculiar  dialect,  and  with  reason,  as  nowhere  is  the  Spanish  language 
more  corrupted  in  words  and  pronunciation ;  in  fact,  it  is  scarcely  intelligible 
^*'^  a  true  Toledan.    The  ceceo,  or  pronouncing  the  c  before  certain  vowels  as  an 


ArvMwsia.  A  theee  months'  toub.  129 

«,  and  the  not  marking  the  th  dearlj — for  example,  plater  (placer)  for  plather 
— is  no  less  offensiye  to  a  fine  grammatical  ear  than  the  habit  of  dippmg  the 
Queen's  Spanish.  The  Oastilian  enmidates  every  letter  and  syllable,  while  the 
Andalucian  seldom  soimds  the  d  between  two  vowels ;  lo  comej  he  eats  it,  and 
says,  comiOy  qtterio,  ffanao,  for  camido,  querido,  gomado ;  no  vale  nd,  no  hay  ndy 
for  no  vale  nada,  no  "hay  nadd,  and  often  confomids  the  double  I  with  the  y, 
saying  galUmgoe  for  ga/j/a/ngos. 

The  fittest  towns  for  summer  residence  are  Granada  and  Bonda ;  Serille 
and  Malaga  suit  inyahds  during  the  winter,  or  Gibraltar,  where  the  creature 
comforts  and  good  medical  advice  of  Old  England  abound.  The  spring  and 
autumn  are  the  best  periods  for  a  mere  tour  in  Andalucia ;  the  summers,  except 
in  the  mountain  districts,  are  intensely  hot,  while  the  rains  in  winter  render 
locomotion  in  the  interior  almost  impracticable.  The  towns  on  the  coast  are 
easily  visited,  as  constant  intercommunication  between  Cadiz  and  Malaca  is 
kept  up  by  steamers,  which  touch  at  Gibraltar  and  Algedras.  The  roads  in 
general  are  infiunous — ^mere  mule  tracks,  owing  nothing  to  art  except  the  turn- 
pike toll ;  while  canals  are  wanting,  alike  for  trade  or  irrigation,  and  the  rivers 
are  ceasing  to  be  navigable  from  neglect.  There  is  much  tsdk  of  the  rail,  as  soon 
as  the  struggle  who  is  to  have  the  greatest  share  of  plunder  in  the  concessions 
and  schemes^  is  settled  by  the  "powers  that  be." 

The  river  Guadalquivur  is  provided  with  steamers  to  Seville  j  but  with  the 
exception  of  the  road  from  Cadiz  to  Madrid,  and  that  from  Malaga  to  Granada, 
there  are  no  decent  public  carriages.  The  primitive  Bedouin  conveyance,  the 
horse,  prevails,  and  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  the  galeras,  or  carriers  waggons, 
which  drag  through  miry  ruts,  or  over  stony  tracks  made  by  vnld  goats ;  into 
them  no  man  who  values  time  or  his  bones  will  venture.  In  spite  of  a  fertile  soil 
and  beneficent  climate,  almost  half  Andalucia  is  abandoned  to  a  state  of  nature. 
The  soil  is  covered  with  lentisks,  Liquorice  and  PaJmitoSy  the  indigenous  weeds, 
and  other  aromatic  underwood,  and  is  strewed  with  remains  of  Moorish  ruins. 
The  land,  once  a  paradise,  seems  cursed  by  man's  ravage  and  neglect.  Here 
those  two  things  of  Spain,  the  dehesas  y  despohlados,  will  be  frdly  understood 
by  the  traveller  as  he  rides  through  lands  once  cultivated,  now  returned  to 
waste,  and  over  districts  once  teeming  with  life,  but  now  depopulated,  and  who  will 
thai  and  there  leam  completely  to  decline  the  verb  "rough  it "  in  all  its  tenses. 

A  Thbee  Months'  Totte. 

This  may  be  effected  by  a  combination  of  Steam,  Biding,  and  Coaching. 

April.  Gibraltar,  S.  April.  Cordova,  C.  May.    LaiJaron,  R.       June.  Loja,  C. 

Tarifa,B.  Andujar,  C.  Beija,  R.  Antequera,R. 

Cadiz,  R.  Jaen,  R,  or  June.  Motril,  R.  Ronda,  R. 

Xerez^C.  May.    Bailen,  C.  Velez  Malaga,  R.  Gibraltar,  R. 

San  Lncar,  C.  Jaen,  C.  Alhama,  R. 

Seville,  8.  Granada,  C.  Malaga,  R. 

Those  going  to  Madrid  may  ride  from  Bonda  to  Cordova  by  Osuna.  Those 
going  to  Estremadura  may  ride  from  Bonda  to  Seville,  by  Moron. 

MlKERALOGICAL-aEOLOaiCAL  TOITB. 

Seville  Cordova^  R.  Cabo  de  Gata Marbles. 

Villa  Nueva del  Rio,  R... Coal.  Batten,  C.  Adra,  R. Lead. 

Rio  Tinto,  R. Copper.    linares,  R Lead.  Beija,  R. Lead. 

Almadende  la  Plata,  R...Silv.   Baeza.R Lead.  Granada,  R. Marbles. 

Onadakanal,  R. Silver.   Segora*  R. Forests.  Malaga,  C. 

Almaden,  R. .Quicksilver.  Baza,  R.  Marbella,  R. Iron. 

Excursion  to  Logrosan,  R.  Pnrchena,R. Marbles.  Gibraltar,  R. 

Phosphate  of  Lime.   Macael,  R Marbles. 


^  o 


130 


ROUTE  1. — SOUTHAMPTON  TO  CADIZ— ST.  VINeENT.    SeCt.  II. 


RoxTTB  1. — Southampton  to  Cadiz. 

The  better  plan  is  to  proceed  direct 
to  Cadiz,  wh/^  the  change  of  climate, 
Boenery,  men,  and  manners  effected  by 
a  six  dftys'  voyage  is  indeed  remarkable. 
Quitting  the  British  Channel,  we  soon 
enter  the  *' sleepless  Bay  of  Biscay," 
where  the  stormy  petrel  is  at  home,  and 
where  the  gigantic  swell  of 'the  Atlantic 
is  first  checked  by  Spain's  iron-bound 
coast,  the  monntain  breakwater  of  Eu- 
rope. Here  The  Ocean  will  be  seen  in 
all  its  yast  majesty  and  solitude  :  grand 
in  the  tempest-lashed  storm,  grand  in 
the  calm,  when  spread  out  as  a  mirror ; 
and  nerer  more  impressive  than  at 
night,  when  the  stars  of  heayen,  free 
from  earth-bom  mists,  sparkle  like  dia- 
monds oyer  those  "who  go  down  to 
the  sea  in  ships  and  behold  the  works 
of  the  Lord,  and  his  wonders  in  the 
deep."  The  land  has  disappeared,  and 
man  feels  alike  his  weakness  and  his 
strength ;  a  thin  plank  separates  him 
from  another  world ;  yet  he  has  laid 
his  hand  upon  the  billow,  and  mastered 
the  ocean ;  he  has  made  it  the  highway 
of  commerce,  and  the  binding  link  of 
nations. 

The  average  passage  of  the  steamers 
from  Southampton  to  Cadiz,  stoppages 
in  GkOHcia  and  Portugal  included,  is 
about  seven  days,  and  the  first  land 
made  is  the  N.W.  coast  of  Spain,  whose 
range  of  mountains,  a  continuation  of 
the  Pyrenean  vertebr®,  forms,  as  we 
have  said,  the  breakwater  of  Europe 
against  the  gigantic  swell  of  the  At- 
lantic. For  La  Coruna  and  Vigo  see 
Index.  Omitting  Portugal,  as  foreign 
to  this  Handbook,  the  voyage  from 
Lisbon  to  Cadiz  averages  between  30 
and  35  hours.  When  wind  and  weather 
permit,  the  cape  of  St.  Yincent  is 
approached  sufficiently  near  to  see  the 
convent  perched  on  the  beetling  cliff, 
and  to  hear  its  matin  or  vesper  bell, 
and  see  a  fine  rotary  light,  ecUpsed 
every  two  minutes.  The  Montchiqite 
-ange  of  mountains  rises  nobly  behmd 

the  background. 

ISl  Cabo  de  8an  Vicente,  the  Cape 


of  St.  Vincent,  is  so  called  from  one  of 
the  earliest  Spanish  saints,  Vinoentius, 
a  native  of  Zaragoza,  who  was  put  to 
death  by  Dacian,  fit  Yalencia,  in  304. 
The  body,  long  watched  over  by  crows, 
was  removed  to  this  site  at  the  Moorish 
invasion,  miraculously  guarded  by  these 
birds ;  and  hence  the  convent  buHt  over 
the  remains  was  called  by  the  infidels 
Kemsata-l-gordb^  the  church  of  the 
crow.  According  to  their  geographers, 
a  crow  was  always  placed  on  the  roof, 
announcing  the  arrival  of  strangers, 
cawing  once  for  each ;  and  the  point 
to  this  day  is  termed  by  the  nativea 
El  Monte  de  los  Cuervos.  About  1147 
Alonso  I.  removed  the  holy  body  to 
Portugal,  two  of  the  crows  acting  as 
pilots,  just  as  Alexander  the  Great  was 
guided  over  the  desert  to  the  temple 
of  Jupiter  Ammon.  The  Spanish  crows 
are  blazoned  on  the  arms  of  the  city  of 
liBbon.  These  birds  continued  to  breed 
in  the  cathedral,  and  had  regular  rents 
assigned  for  their  support.  Dr.  Ckddes 
(Tracts,  iii.  106)  saw  many  birds  there 
"  descended  from  the  original  breed, 
living  witnesses  of  the  miracle,  but  no 
longer  pilots."  For  the  legend  consult 
Prudentius,  Perist.,  v.  5;  Morales,  Coro- 
mcGt  X.  341 ;  JEep,  Saffr,  viii.  179,  231. 

This  promontory,  always  in  fact  a 
"Holy  Head,"  a  sort  of  Samothrace, 
was  the  Kowcov,  Ouneus,  of  the  an- 
cients; here  existed  a  circular  druid- 
ical  temple,  in  which  the  Iberians  be- 
heved  that  the  gods  assembled  at  night 
(Strabo,  iii.  202) .  Hence  the  Bomans, 
availing  themselves  of  the  hereditary 
Behgio  Loci,  called  the  mountain  Mons 
Sacer,  a  name  still  preserved  in  the 
neighbouring  hamlet  Sagree,  founded 
in  1416  by  Prince  Henry  of  Portugal, 
who  here  pursued  those  studies  which 
led  to  the  discovery  of  the  circumnavi- 
gation of  Africa.  Sagres  was  once 
considered  the  most  western  point  of 
Europe,  and  to  which,  as  the  first  meri- 
dian, all  longitudes  were  referred. 

The  waters  which  bathe  these  shores 
have  witnessed  three  British  victories. 
Here,  Jan.  16, 1780,  Bodney  attacked 
the  Spanish  fleet  under  Langara,  cap- 
tured 6  and  destroyed  2  men-of-war ; 


^ndcducia.         eoute  L— cadiz — inns — auiTARs,  etc. 


131 


had  the  action  taken  place  in  the 
day,  or  had  the  weather  been  even 
moderate,  *'  none^"  as  he  said  in 
bis  dispatch,  *'  wouldT  have  escaped." 
Here,  Feb.  14, 1797,  Jervis,  or  rather 
^ebon  (although  not  mentioned  in 
Jervis'  dispatch),  with  15  small  ships, 
defeated  27  huge  Spaniards,  **  rattlmg 
through  the  battle  as  if  it  had  been  a 
sj)ort,"  taking  4  prizes,  and  saving 
Lisbon  from  Godoy,  the  tool  of  France. 
Here,  again,  July  3, 1836,  Napier,  with 
6  small  ships,  b^t  10  Portuguese  men- 
of-war,  and  placed  Don  Pedro  on  the 
throne  of  Portugal. 

Bounding  the  cape  and  steering  S.E., 
we  enter  the  bay  of  Cadiz ;  the  moun- 
tain range  of  Bonda,  landmarks  to 
ships,  are  seen  soaring  on  high,  while 
the  low  maritime  strip  of  Andaluda  Ues 
unperceived.  For  aU  this  coast,  con- 
sult the  Derroteros,  by  "Vicente  Tofino, 
2  vols.  4ta,  Mad.  1787-9.  Soon  £adr 
Cadiz  rises  from  the  dark  blue  sea  Hke 
a  line  of  ivory  palaces ;  the  steamers 
generally  remain  here  about  3  h.,  be- 
fore proceeding  to  Gibraltar.  What 
a  change  from  Southampton!  What 
local  colour,  what  dazzlmg  blues  and 
whites,  as  we  near  this  capital  of 
southern  seas,  so  young,  so  gay,  bright 
and  clear  as  Aplu*odite  when  she  rose 
from  the  waves  here !  And  how  strange 
the  people  of  this  new  clime,  with  black 
eyes  and  ivory  teeth,  bronzed  cheeks, 
shaggy  breasts,  and  sashes  red!  The 
landing,  when  the  sea  is  rough,  is  often 
inconvenient,  and  the  sanitary  precau- 
tions tedious.  It  is  carrying  a  joke 
some  lengths,  when  the  yellow  cada- 
verous Spanish  AecUth  officers  inspect 
and  suspect  the  ruddy-fekied  Britons, 
who  hang  over  the  packet  gangway, 
bursting  from  a  plethora  of  beef  and 
good  condition ;  but  fear  of  the  plague 
is  the  bugbear  of  the  South,  and 
Spaniards  are  no  more  to  be  hurried 
than  our  Court  of  Chancery.  Extor- 
tionate boatmen,  who  sit  like  cormo- 
rants on  the  coast,  crowd  round  the 
vessel  to  land  passengers ;  the  proper 
charge  is  a  peseta  a  person,  and  the 
word  taHffa  is  their  bugbear.  There  is 
the  uBUtu  trouble  with  the  .<i<^»enw, 


ResguardoSy  and  other  custom-house 
officers,  who  are  to  be  conciliated  by 
patience,  courtesy,  a  cigar. 

Cadiz.  Inns. — Hotel  JSlancOy  No. 
60,  on  the  Alameda,  with  a  fine  sea 
view ;  very  good.  Blanco  himself  is 
trustworthy  and  intelligent;  English 
Hotel — Ximenes,  No.  164,  Alameda ; 
Hotel  de  Ewropa ;  Oriente,  in  French 
and  Spanish  style  ;  Ouatro  Na- 
clones.  Plaza  de  Mina.  An  excellent 
casa  de  pupilos  in  the  CaUe  de  San 
Alefandro,  kept  by  Mrs.  Stanley,  is 
well  fitted  for  private  families  and 
huiies.  Gk>od  lodgings  and  fare  may 
be  had  at  Juan  Munoz,  117,  C.  del 
Baluarte.  The  fans,  mantillas  of  Cadiz 
(Spanish  mantillas  imported  into  Eng- 
land pay  a  duty  of  16  per  cent.),  rank 
next  to  those  of  Valencia  and  Barce- 
lona ;  the  gloves  are  excellent,  especially 
the  white  kid,  six  reals  the  pair.  Ladies* 
shoes  are  very ^  cheap  and  good,  as  the 
feet  at  Cadiz  are  not  among  the  ugUest 
on  earth.  The  town  is  famous  for  sweet- 
meats, or  dulcesy  of  which  Spaniards,  and 
especially  the  women,  as  in  the  East,  eat 
vast  quantities,  to  the  detriment  of  their 
stomachs  and  complexions.  The  Calle 
Ancha  is  the  Begent  Street  of  Cadiz. 

There  is  a  good  Casino  or  club  on 
the^  Plaza  San  Antonio,  into  which 
strangers  are  easily  introduced  by  their 
banker. 

The  Cadiz  guitars,  made  by  Juan 
Pajra  and  his  son  Josef,  rank  with  the 
violins  and  tenors  of  Straduarius  and 
Amati :  the  best  have  a  backboard  of 
dark  wood,  called  Palo  Santo.  The 
floor-mattings  are  excellent :  the  finest 
are  woven  of  a  flat  reed  or  junco  (the 
effusus  of  LinnsBus),  which  grows  near 
Lepe  and  Elche ;  these  and  the  coarser 
Esteras  used  for  winter  are  designed  in 
fanciful  Oriental  patterns,  and  can  be 
made  to  any  design  for  6  to  8  reals 
the  va/ra :  they  last  long,  and  are  very 
cool,  dean,  and  pleasant.  Visit  one  of 
the  manufactories  to  see  the  operatives 
squatted  down^  and  working  exactly  as 
the  Egyptians  did  3000  years  ago. 

Books  to  consvM. — For  the  antiqui- 
ties, &randezas,  by  Jn.  Ba.  Suarez  df 
Salazar,  4to.,  Cadiz,  1610;   Empoi 


132 


ROUTE  1. — HISTORY  OF  CADIZ. 


Sect.  II. 


de  el  Orhe,  Q^ronimo  de  la  Conception, 
folio,  Amsterdam,  1690 ;  Cadiz  Fheni- 
cia,  Ms.  de  Mondejar,  3  yoIs.  4to.,  Mad. 
1805 ;  Higtoria  de  Cadiz,  1598,  Orosco, 
4to.,  1845 ;  Mawuel  de  la  Provincia; 
Luis  de  Igartvbwru,  4to.,  Cadiz,  1847. 

A  couple  of  days  will  suffice  for  see- 
ing this  city,  whose  glories  belong  rather 
to  the  past  than  the  present. 

Cadizy  long  called  Cales  by  the  Eng- 
lish, although  the  oldest  town  in  Eu- 
rope, looks  one  of  the    newest  and 
cleanest.    The  rust  of  antiquity  is  com- 
pletely whitewashed  over,  thanks  to  an 
Irishman,  the  Gk)vemor  O'Eeilly,  who, 
about  1785,  introduced  an  English  sys- 
tem.    It  is  well  built,  payed,  lighted, 
and  so  tidy,  thanks  to  the  sewer  of  the 
circumambient   sea,  that  the  natives 
compare  Cadiz  to  a  taza  de  plata,  a 
silver  dish  (Airabic^  tad).    It  rises  on 
a  rocky  peninsula  of  concreted  shells 
(shaped  like  a  ham),  some  10  to  50  feet 
above  the  sea,  which  girdles  it  around, 
a  narrow  isthmus  alone  connecting  the 
main  land  ;    and  in  fact   Gaddir,  in 
Punic,  meant  an  enclosed  place  (Fest. 
Av.  Or.  Mar.  273).     It  was  foimded 
by  the  Phoenicians  347  years  before 
Borne,  and  1100  before  Christ  (Arist. 
'  De  Mir.*  134 ;  Vel.  Pat.  L  2. 6).     The 
Punic    name  was    corrupted  by  the 
Ghreeks,   who   caught    at    sound,  not 
sense,  into  Tahi^a,  quasi  yvs   iu^a,  a 
neck  of  land,  whence  the  Koman  Gudes. 
Gaddir  was  the  end  of  the  ancient 
world,  the  "  ladder  of  the  outer  sea," 
the  mart  of  the  tin  of  England,  and 
the  amber  of  the  Baltic.     The  Phoe- 
nicians,  jealous  of  their  monopoly,  per- 
mitted no  stranger  to  pass  beyond  it, 
and  self  has  ever  since  been  the  policy 
of  Cadiz.     Gaddir  proved  false  to  the 
Phoenicians    when    Carthage    became 
powerful ;    and,    again,   when   Rome 
rose  in  the  ascendant,  deserted  Car- 
thage in  her  turn,  some  Gtulitanian 
refugees  volunteering  the  treachery ; 
(Livy,  xxviii.  23).     ^sar,  whose  first 
office  was  a  qusestorship  in  Spain,  saw, 
like  the  Duke  (Disp.  Feb.  27, 1810),  the 
■^•-nportance  of  this  key  of  Andalucia 
^1,  C,  ii.  17).    He  strengthened  it 
works,  and  when  Dictator  gave 


imperial  names  to  the  city,  "  Julia  Au- 
gusta Gkulitana ; "  and  a  fondness  for  fine 
epithets  is  still  a  characteristic  of  its 
townsfolk.  Qiules  became  enormously 
rich  by  engrossing  the  salt-fish  mo- 
nopoly of  Some:  its  merchants  were 
princes.  Balbus  rebuilt  it  with  marble, 
setting  an  example  even  to  Augustus. 

This  town  was  the  great  lie  and  lion 
of  antiquity ;  nothing  was  too  absurd 
for  the  classical  handbooks.     It  was 
their  Venice,  or  Paris;  the  centre  of 
sin  and  sensaal  civilization ;  the  pur- 
veyor of  gastronomy,  ballets,  and  other 
matters  for  which  the  Spaniard  of  old, 
"Dedecorum  pretiosus  emptor,"  paid 
par  excellence  (Hor.  Od.  iii.  6,  32). 
Italy  imported  from  it  those  improhce 
GaditafUB,  whose  lascivious  dances  were 
of  Oriental  origin,  and  still  exist  in  the 
Romalis  of  the  Andalucian  gipsies.   The 
prosperity  of  Ghkdes  fell  with  that  of 
Rome,  to  both  of  which  the  foundation 
of  Constantinople  dealt  the  fijrst  blow. 
Then  came  the  Goths,  who  destroyed 
the  city ;  and  when  Alonso  el  Sabio — 
the  learned  not  wise — captured  Eadia 
from  the  Moors,  Sept.  14,  1262,  its  ex- 
istence was  almost  doubted  by  the  in- 
faUible  Urban  IV.  ^  The  discovery  of 
the  New  World  revived  the  prosperity 
of  a  place  which  alone  can  exist  by 
commerce,  and  since  the  loss  of  the 
Transatlantic  colonies    ruin  has  been 
the  order  of  the  day.    Hence  the  con- 
stant struggle  during  the  vrar  to  send 
out  troops,  and  expend  on  their  re- 
covery the  means  furnished  by  Eng- 
land for  the  defence  of  the  Peninsula. 
The  population  of  Cadiz  in  the  war 
time,  which  exceeded  100,000,  has  now 
dwindled  down  to  some  53,000,    Made 
a  free  warehousing  port  in  1829,  a 
fillip  was  given,  but  the  privilege  was 
abolished  in  1832,  since  which  it  is 
rapidly  decaying,  as  it  cannot  compete 
with  Gibraltar  and  Malaga,  while  even 
the  sherry   trade   is  passing    to  the 
Puerto  and  San  Lucar.    It  has  a  joint- 
stock  bank  and  issues  its  own  notes. 

Cadiz  was  sacked  June  21,  1596,  by 
Lord  Essex,  when  Elizabeth  repaid, 
with  interest,  the  visit  of  the  Spanish 
invincible  armada.    The  e^>edition  was 


Anddlucia. 


ROUTE  1. — SIEGES  OF  CADIZ. 


133 


80  secretly  planned,  that  none  on  board, 
saye  the  chiefs,  knew  its  destination. 
An  officer  named  Wm.  Morgan,  who, 
having  lived  in  Spain,  knew  the  dila- 
pidated state  of  her  defences,  advised 
instant  attack  ;  and  so  the  garrison  was 
found  wanting  in  every  thing  at  the 
critical  moment,  and  was  instantly 
taken.  Antonio  de  Zuniga,  the  oorre- 
gidor,  having  been  the  first  to  run  and 
&11  to  his  prayers,  when  every  one  else 
followed  their  leader's  example.  GDhe 
booty  of  the  conquerors  was  enormous ; 
13  ships  of  war,  and  40  huge  South 
American  galleons  were  destroyed, 
whereby  an  almost  universal  bank- 
ruptcy ensued,  and  the  first  blow  was 
dealt  to  falling  Spain,  and  from  which 
she  never  recovered.  The  best  account 
is  by  Dr.  Marbeck, physician  toLordEs- 
sex,  and  an  eye-wihiess,  Hakliiyt,  L  607. 

Cadiz  was  again  attacked  by  the 
English  in  1625;  the  command  was 
given  to  Lord  Wimbleton,  a  grandson 
of  the  great  Burleigh.  This  was  a 
Walcheren  expedition,  ill-planned  by 
the  incompetent  Buckingham,  and  mis- 
managed by  the  general,  who,  like  the 
late  Lord  Chatham,  proved  that  genius 
is  not  hereditaij ;  (see  Journal  and 
Belation,  &c.,  London,  4to.,  1626). 
Another  English  expedition  fsdled  in 
August,  1702.  This,  says  Burnet, 
«  was  ill-projected  and  worse  executed." 
The  attack  was  foolishly  delayed,  and 
the  Spaniards  had  time  to  recover  their 
alarm,  and  organize  resistance ;  for 
when  the  English  fleet  arrived  in  the 
bay,  Cadiz  was  garrisoned  by  only  300 
men,  and  must  nave  been  taken,  as  the 
Duke  of  Ormond  told  Burnet. 

Cadiz  in  the  recent  war  narrowly 
escaped,  and  from  similar  reasons. 
When  the  rout  of  Ocana  gave  Anda- 
lucia  to  Soult,  he  turned  aside  to  Se- 
ville to  play  the  "conquering  hero." 
So  Alburquerque,  by  taking  a  short  cut, 
had  time  to  r^ich  the  Isla^  and  make  a 
show  of  defence,  which  scared  Victor. 
Had  he  pushed  on,  the  city  must  have 
-fallen ;  for  everything  was  then,  as  now, 
-most  orientally  out  of  order,  the  forti- 
:fications  b^ng  almost  dismantled.  The 
2K>ld  front  presented  by  Alburquerque 


saved  the  town.  He  soon  after  died  in 
England,  broken-heartedat  the  injustice 
and  ingratitude  of  the  Cadiz  Junta. 
Thus  Spain  generally  rewards  those  who 
serve  her  best.  Previously  to  his  timely 
arrival,  the  junta,  "  reposing  on  its  own 
greatness,"  had  taken  no  precautions, 
nay,  had  resisted  the  English  engineers 
in  their  proposed  defences,  and  had 
insulted  us  by  unworthy  suspicions, 
refusing  to  acbnit  a  British  garrison, 
thus  marring  the  Duke's  admirable  plan 
of  defending  Andalucia.  They  despised 
him  when  they  were  safe :  "  Sed  ubi 
periculum  advenit  invidia  atque  su- 
perbia  postfuere"  (Sallust,  B.C.  24). 
Then  they  put  away  their  envy  and 
pride,  and  clamoured  for  aid  in  their 
miserable  incapacity  for  self-defence 
with  bated  breath  and  whispering  hum- 
bleness ;  and  Qeneral  Spencer  was  sent 
from  Gibraltar  with  2000  men,  the 
Duke  simply  remarking  on  withdraw- 
ing our  troops  after  they  l^ad  done  the 
work,  "  it  may  be  depended  upon,  that 
if  Cadiz  should  ever  again  be  in  danger, 
owr  aid  will  be  called  for"  (Disp.  Nov. 
11, 1813).  And  never  let  this  true  key 
of  Spanish  policy  be  forgotten.  That 
semi-Moorish  government,  so  long  as 
the  horizon  at  home  and  abroad  is  fisur, 
will  bully  and  bluster,  will  slight  and 
ill-use  England,  its  best  friend;  but 
whenever  "  the  little  cloud "  arises, 
whether  from  beyond  the  Pyrenees  or 
the  Atlantic,  it  will  hurry  to  kiss  the 
hand  it  stunig,  and  will  petition  for 
help  in  craven  consciousness  of  impo- 
tence.  The  real  strength  of  Spain  con- 
sists in  its  weakness,  and  in  the  for- 
bearance and  endurance  of  other  and 
real  Powers. 

The  first  step  the  Cortes  took  was  to 
meditate  a  law  to  prevent  anv  foreign 
soldiers  (meaning  English)  from  ever 
being  admitted  into  a  Spanish  fortress ; 
and  this  aft;er  Cadiz,  Cartagena,  Tarifii, 
Alicante,  Ceuta,  &c.,  had  been  soleljf 
defiended  and  saved  by  their  assistance. 
Now-a-days,  according  to  Spanish  his- 
tories, Cadiz  is  the  "  bastion  where  the 
finest  troops  in  the  world  were  baffled 
by  Spaniah  valour  alone ;"  for  the  Md- 
lados  and  Co.  do  not  even  mention  t 


134 


ROUTE  1. — ^THE  CLIMATE  OF  CADIZ. 


Sect.  II. 


English.  So  it  has  always  been  and 
will  be :  Spain,  at  the  critical  moment, 
loves  to  fold  her  arms  and  allow  others 
to  drag  her  wheels  out  of  the  mire ;  she 
accepts  their  aid  uncourteously,  and  as 
if  she  was  thereby  doing  her  allies  an 
honour;  she  borrows  their  gold  and  uses 
their  iron ;  and  when  she  is  deUyered, 
"repudiates;"  her  notion  of  re-payment 
is  by  ingratitude;  she  draws  not  even  on 
the  "  exchequer  of  the  poor"  for  thanks ; 
nay,  she  filches  from  her  benefactors 
their  good  name,  decking  herself  in  their 
plumes.  The  memory  of  French »»;«ri&« 
is  less  hateful  than  that  of  EngUsh  bene- 
fits,  which  wounds  her  pride,  as  evincing 
her  comparative  iuferiority. 

Cadiz,  being  the  "  end  of  the  world," 

.  has  always  been  made  the  last  asylum 
of  gasconading  goyermnents,  einoethej 
can  run  no  further,  because  stopped  by 
the  sea:  hither,  after  prating  about 
Numantia,  the  Junta  fled  in  1810,  set- 
ting the  example  to  their  imitators  ia 
1823.  Then  the  Cortes-  of  Madrid 
continued  to  chatter,  and  write  imper- 
tinent notes  to  the  allied  sovereigns, 
until  Angoul^me  crossed  the  Bidasoa ; 
when  they  all  forthwith  took  to  their 
heels,  fled  to  Cadiz,  and  next  surren- 
dered. Thus  this  city,  which  so  long 
resisted  the  mighty  Emperor,  because 
defended  by  England,  when  left  to  its 
single-handed  valour,  succumbed  with 
such  precipitation  that  the  conquest 
became  inglorious  even  to  the  puny 
Bourbon.  Yet  the  city  still  glories  hi 
the  epithet  *^Heroica"  one  in  truth 
so  common  to  Spanish  cities,  that  the 
French,  in  1823,  when  the  mayors  came 
out  with  their  pompous  titles  and  keys 
to  surrender  them  itutcmier,  scarcely 
could  refrain  from  laughter. 

Cadiz,  purely  a  commercial  town,  has 
Uttle  fine  art  or  learning ;  les  lettrea  de 
change  y  sont  lea  belles  lettrea.  It  is 
scarry  even  th&jocosa  Gadea  of  the 
past ;  for  the  society  being  mercantile,  is 
considered  by  Spaniards  as  second-rate. 
The  women,  however,  fascinate  alike  by 
their  forms  and  manners.    Cadiz,  it  is 

-juiid,  is  rather  the  city  of  Venus,  the 

^-■er  of  love,  than  of  the  chaste 

;  and  the  frequiency  of  consump- 


tion in  so  fine  a  climate  may  be  traced 
to  the  early,  general,  and  excessive  in- 
dulgence. The  wretched  foundlings  in 
the  hospital  La  Cuna  die  como  chinches;: 
this  mortality,  it  is  said  —  a  modem 
massacre  of  the  innocents — averages  75 
per  cent.  The  lower  orders  have  bor- 
rowed from  foreigners  many  vices  not 
common  in' the  inland  towns  of  tem- 
perate and  decent  Spain.  Cadiz,  as  a 
residence,  is  but  a  sea-prison ;  the 
water  is  bad,  and  the  clunate  during 
the  Solcmo  wind  (its  sirocco),  detest- 
able; then  the  mercury  in  the  baro- 
meter rises  six  or  seven  degrees,  and  the 
natives  are  driven  almost  mad,  espe- 
cially the  women ;  the  searching  blast 
finds  out  everything  that  is  wrong  in 
the  nervous  constitution.  The  use  of 
the  knife  is  so  common  during  this 
wind,  that  courts  of  justice  make  al- 
lowances for  the  irritant  efiects,  as 
arising  from  electrical  causes,  the  pass- 
ing over  heated  deserts.  Cadiiz  used  to- 
be  much  visited  by  yellow  fever — el  vo- 
mito  negro — which  was  imported  from 
the  Havana.  The  invalid  will  find  the 
soft  and  moist  air  somewhat  relaxing ;. 
but  the  city  is  well  ventilated  by  fresh 
breezes,  and  the  sea  is  an  excellent 
scavenger. 

There  are  very  few  good  pictures  at 
Cadiz.  The  new  Museo  contains  8om& 
50  or  60  second-rate  paintings,  hun- 
dreds of  books  and  pictures  having 
been  left  to  rot  on  the  floors  by  the 
authorities ;  among  the  best,  or  rather 
the  least  bad,  are,  by  Zurbaran,  the- 
San  Bruno  —  Eight  Monks,  figurea 
smaller  than  life,  from  the  Cartuja  of 
Xerez;  twoAngelsdittOjandsixsmaller; 
the  Four  EvangeUsts,  San  Lorenzo  and 
the  Baptist.  There  is  a  Virgen  de  la 
Faja,  a  copy  after  Murillo,  by  Tobar ; 
a  San  Agustin,  by  L.  Giordano ;  a 
San  Miguel  and  Evil  Spirits,  and  the 
Ghiardian  Angel.  The  pride  of  the- 
Ghiditanians  is  the  Last  Judgment^ 
which,  to  use  the  criticism  of  SaLvator 
Bosa  on  Michael  Angelo,  shows  their 
lack  of  that  article,  as  it  is  a  poor  pro- 
duction, by  some  feeble  imitator  of 
Nicholas  Foussui.  An  echo  also  greatly 
amuses  grown  up  children. 


Anddlucia.        route  1. — the  cathedrai^  of  cadiz. 


135 


Cadiz. is  a  garrison  town,  the  see  of 
a  bishop  suffragan  to  Seville.  It  has  a 
fine  new  Plaza  de  Toros,  built  outside 
the  town  by  Montes,  who  half  ruined 
himself  thereby.  It  has  two  theatres ; 
in  the  larger,  iH  Frincipal,  operas  are 
performed  during  the  winter,  and  in 
the  smaller,  el  del  Balon,  Sainetes, 
&roes,  and  the  national  JSailes  or 
dances,  which  never  fail  to  rouse  the 
most  siestose  audience.  Ascend  the 
Torre  de  la  Viffia,  below  lies  the 
smokeless  whitened  city,  with  its  mira- 
dores  and  azoteaSy  its  look-out  towers 
and  flat  roo&,  from  whence  the  mer- 
chants formerly  signalised  the  arrival 
of  their  galleons.  While  Madrid  has 
not  one,  Cadiz  possesses  two  cathedrals 
near  each  other.  The  old  one.  La 
Viefa,  was  buHt  in  1597,  to  replace 
that  injured  during  the  siege.  Its 
want  of  dignity  induced  the  city,  in 
1720,  to  commence  a  new  one,  La 
Nuevas  but  the  plans  given  by  Yicente 
Acero  were  so  bad  that  no  one,  in  spite 
of  many  attempts,  was  found  able  to 
correct  them,  so  the  work  was  left  unfi- 
nished in  1769,  and  the  funds,  derived 
from  a  duty  on  American  produce, 
were  regularly  appropriated  by  the 
commissioners  to  themselves.  The 
hull,  used  as  a  rope-walk,  remained, 
like  a  stranded  wreck  on  a  quicksand, 
in  which  the  merchants*  property  was 
engulphed,  until  the  interior  was  com- 
pleted by  Bp.  Domingo  de  Silos  Moreno, 
chiefly  at  his  own  expense,  during  a 
time  of  civil  war  and  church  sequestra- 
tions. The  florid  Corinthian  is  over- 
charged with  cornices  and  capitals,  and 
bran-new  pictures — daubs.  Observe, 
however,  in  a  chapel  behind  the  high 
altar,  a  fine  Concepcion  by  Mmillo. 
There  is  a  history  of  this  cathedral  by 
Jamer  de  Urrutia,  1843. 

The  sea-ramparts  which  encircle  the 
city,  extending  more  than  4  m.  round, 
are  on  this  side  the  most  remarkable ; 
here  the  rocks  rise  the  highest,  and  the 
battering  of  the  Atlantic  is  the  greatest 
as  the  waters  gain  on  the  land ;  their 
maintenance  and  rebuilding  is  a  con- 
stant source  of  expense  and  anxiety. 
Here  idlers,  seated  on  the  highwi 


jty. 
ail, 


dispute  with  flocks  of  sea-birds  for  the 
salmonetef  the  deUcious  red  mullet. 
•Their  long  angling-canes  and  patience 
are  proverbial — la  paciencia  de  un  pes- 
cador  de  cana. 

Los  CapuchinoSf  the  suppressed  con- 
vent of  San  Francisco,  were  the  head- 
quarters of  Lord  Essex  in  1596.  Here 
is  the  Academia  de  Nobles  Artes,  with 
a  museum,  consisting  chiefly  of  rubbish, 
and  shabbily  managed  because  of  the 
old  story  "  no  funds."  The  building  is 
now  used  as  a  lunatic  asylum.  The 
Plaza  de  Mina  has  been  created  out  of 
the  convent  garden :  then  and  there 
the  2>ra^on-tree,  bleeding  from  the 
tomb  of  Gteryon,  the  last  of  its  race, 
was  barbarously  cut  down,  and  even 
the  matchless  palm-grove  shorn  of  its 
glories.  The  chapel  contains  the  Mar- 
riage of  St.  Catherine,  the  last  work  of 
Miuillo,  who  in  1682  fell  here  from  the 
scaffolding,  and  died  in  consequence 
at  Seville :  the  smaller  subjects  were 
finished  from  his  drawings  by  his  pupil 
Fro.  Meneses  Osorio,  who  did  not  ven- 
ture to  touch  what  his  master  had  done 
ui  the  first  lay  of  colours,  or  de  primer  a 
mono.  A  San  Francisco  receiving  the 
Stigmata  is  in  Murillo's  best  manner. 
Notice  also  in  a  chapel  opposite  a 
Concepcion.  These  pictures  were  the 
gift  of  Juan  Yioleto,  a  Genoese,  and  a 
devotee  to  St.  Catherine ;  but  the  chief 
benefiEtctor  of  the  convent  was  a  foreign 
Jew,  one  Pierre  Isaac,  who,  to  con- 
ciUate  the  Inquisition,  and  save  his 
ducats,  took  the  Virgin  into  partner- 
ship, and  gave  half  his  profits  to  her, 
or  rather  to  the  convent.  Some  single 
figures  by  Zmrbaran  came  from  the 
Cartuja  of  Xerez. 

Following  the  sea-wall  and  turning 
to  the  rt.  at  the  Puerta  de  la  Caleta, 
in  the  distance  the  fort  and  lighthouse 
of  San  Sebastian  rises  about  172  ft. 
above  the  rocky  ledge,  which  proved 
the  barrier  that  saved  Cadiz  from 
the  sea  at  the  Lisbon  earthquake  in 
1755.  Next  observe  the  huge  yellow 
Doric  pile,  the  Casa  de  Misericordia^ 
built  by  Torquato  Cayon.  This,  one 
of  the  best  conducted  refuges  of  t>t« 
poor  in  Spain,  sometimes  contains  1 


136 


ROUTE  1. — ALAMEDA,  THE  LADIES  OF  CADIZ.  Sect.  II. 


inmates,  of  which  300  to  400  are  chil- 
dren. Its  great  patron  was  O'Reilly, 
who,  in  1785,  for  a  time  suppressed 
mendicity  in  Cadiz.  The  court-yards, 
the  patios  of  the  interior,  are  noble. 
Here,  Jan.  4,  1813,  a  ball  was  given 
by  the  grandees  to  "  the  Duke,"  firesh 
from  his  victory  of  Salamanca,  by 
which  the  siege  of  Cadiz  had  been 
raised,  and  Andalucia  saved,  in  spite 
of  the  marplot  Cortes. 

Passing  the  artillery  barracks  and 
■arsenal,  we  turn  by  the  haluarie  de 
Candelaria  to  the  Alameda.  This 
charming  walk  is  provided  with  trees, 
benches,  fountain,  and  a  miserable 
statue  of  Hercules,  the  founder  of 
Cadiz,  and  whose  effigy,  grapplmg  with 
two  lions,  the  city  bears  for  arms,  with 
the  motto  **Ghtdi8  fundator  domina- 
torque."  Every  Spanish  town  has  its 
public  walk,  the  cheap  pleasure  of  all 
classes.  The  term  Alameda  is  derived 
from  the  AlamOf  or  elm-tree.  Some- 
times the  esplanade  is  called  SI  Salon, 
the  saloon,  and  it  is  an  al-fresco,  out 
of  doors  RidoUo.  Tomar  el  fresco,  to 
take  the  cool,  is  the  joy  of  these  south- 
em  latitudes.  Those  who  have  braved 
the  dog-days  of  the  Castiles  can  best  esti- 
mate the  delight  of  the  sea-breeze  which 
springs  up  after  the  scorching  sun  has 
sunk  beneath  the  western  wave.  This 
sun  and  the  tides  were  the  marvels  of 
Cadiz  in  olden  times,  and  descanted 
on  in  the  classical  handbooks.  Philo- 
sophers came  here  on  purpose  to  study 
the  phenomena.  Apollonius  suspected 
that  the  waters  were  sucked  in  by  sub- 
marine winds ;  SoUnus  thought  this 
operation  was  performed  by  huge  sub- 
marine animals.  Artemidorus  reported 
that  the  sun's  disc  increased  a  hundred 
fold,  and  that  it  set,  like  Falstaff  in 
the  Thames,  with  "  an  alacrity  of  sink- 
ing, hot  in  the  surge,  like  a  horse-shoe," 
or  stridentem  gwrgite,  according  to  Ju- 
venal. The  Spanish  G-oths  imagined 
that  the  sim  returned  to  the  E.  by 
unknown  subterraneous  passages  (San 
Isid.  Or,  iii.  15). 

The  prosaic  march  of  intellect  has 

"^'^'ed  the  poetical  and  marvellous  of 

t    credulity    and    admiration; 


still,  however,  this  is  the  spot  for  the 
modem  philosopher  to  study  the  de- 
scendants of  those  "  QadAta/MBi^  who 
turned  more  ancient  heads  tluui  even 
the  sun.  The  "  ladies  of  Cadiz,"  the 
theme  of  our  old  ballads,  have  retained 
all  their  former  celebrity,  and  have 
cared  neither  for  time  nor  tide.  Ob- 
serve, particularly  in  this  Alameda^ 
their  walk,  about  which  every  one  has 
heard  so  much,  and  which  has  been 
distinguished  by  a  competent  female 
judge  from  the  "affected  wriggle  of 
the  French  women,  and  the  grenadier 
stride  of  the  English,  as  a  graceful 
swinmiing  gait."  The  charm  is  that 
it  is  natural  J  and,  in  being  the  true 
unsophisticated  daughters  of  Eve  and 
nature,  the  Spanish  women  have  few 
rivals.  They  carry  their  heads  with 
the  free  high-bred  action  of  an  Arab, 
from  walking  alone  and  not  slouching 
and  leaning  on  gentlemen's  arms,  and 
daintily  from  not  having  to  keep  step 
with  the  longer-legged  sex.  They  walk 
with  the  confidence,  the  power  of 
balance,  and  the  instantaneous  find- 
ing the  centre  of  gravity,  of  the  cha- 
mois. The  thing  is  done  without  effort, 
and  is  the  result  of  a  perfect  organ- 
ization :  one  would  swear  that  they 
could  dance  by  instinct,  and  without 
being  taught.  The  Andaluza,  in  her 
glance  and  step,  learns,  although  she 
does  not  know  it,  from  the  gazelle. 
Her  pace,  el  Tiafar,  and  her  pride 
may  be  compared  to  the  ^aso  Cartel- 
lano  of  an  ambling  Cordovese  barb. 
According  to  Yelazquez,  the  kings  of 
Spain  ought  nev^  to  be  painted,  ex- 
cept witching  the  world  with  noble 
horsemanship,  and,  certes,  their  female 
subjects  should  never  be  seen  except  on 
foot,  St  vera  incessu  patuit  dea.  As  few 
people,  except  at  Madrid,  can  afford 
to  keep  a  carriage,  all  classes  walk,  and 
the  air  and  soil  are  alike  clean  and  dry. 
Practice  makes  perfect ;  hence  the  elite 
of  the  noblesse  adorn  the  Alameda, 
while  in  London  the  aristocratic  foot 
seldom  honours  the  dirty  earth. 

The  Gtiditana  has  no  idea  of  not 
being  admired.  She  goes  out  to  see, 
and  still  more  to  be  seen.    Her  cos- 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  1. — ^FEMALE  WALK  AND  DRESS. 


137 


tume  is  scrupulously  clean  and  neat ; 
she  reserves  all  her  untidyness  for  her 
husband  and  sweet  domestic  privacy. 
Her  "pace"  her  aire  is  her  boast :  not 
but  vrhat  first-rate  £eistidious  judges 
consider  her  ^raoia  to  be  menos  fina 
than  that  of  the  more  high-bred  Sevil- 
lana.  Her  meiteo,  however,  is  consi- 
dered by  grave  antiquarians  to  be  the 
unchanged  crissatura  of  Martial. 

The  Spanish  foot,  female,  which  most 
travellers  describe  at  length,  is  short, 
and  with  a  high  instep ;  it  is  plump, 
not  to  say  pinched  or  contracted.  An 
incarceration  in  over-small  and  pointed 
shoes,  it  faut  souffrvr  powr  itre  helle^ 
occasionally  renders  the  ankles  pufff  ; 
but,  as  among  the  Chinese,  the  correct 
foot-measure  is  conventional ;  and  he 
who  investigates  affairs  with  line  and 
rule  will  probably  discover  that  these 
Oaditanas  will  sooner  find  out  the 
exact  length  of  his  foot,  than  he  of 
theirs.  The  Spaniards  abhor  the 
French  foot,  which  the  rest  of  man- 
kind admire — they  term  it  "«»  pie 
eeco"  dry  measure.  They,  like  Ariosto, 
prefer  "il  breve  asciutto  e  ritondello 
pede."  Be  that  as  it  may,  there  can  be 
no  difierence  in  opinion  as  to  the 
stockings  of  open  lace  embroidery, 
medias  caladas.  They  leave  nothing 
to  be  desired.  The  Spanish  satin  shoe 
and  white  kid  glove  deserve  the  most 
serious  attention  of  all  our  lady  readers ; 
although  the  former  are  somewhat  too 
pointed,  and  cut  too  low  in  the  quarter, 
whereby  the  pressure  is  thrown  for- 
ward, and  the  tarsus  and  meta-tarsus 
uncovered,  which  occasions  bunions  j 
but  vanity  can  endure  even  a  com. 

Formerly  the  Spanish  foot  female 
was  sedulously  concealed ;  the  dresses 
were  made  very  long,  after  the  Oriental 
9'«Sf7^*f>,  Talaris  fashion;  the  least  ex- 
posure was  a  disgrace;  compare  Isa. 
iii.  17;  Jer.  xiii.  22;  Ezek.  xvi.  25. 
As  among  the  Germans  (Tacitus,  Grer. 
19),  so  among  the  Spanish  Goths,  the 
shortening  a  lady's  hasguina  was  the 
deadliest  affiront;  the  catastrophe  of 
the  Infftntes  of  Lara  turns  upon  this 
curtailment  of  Dofia  Lambra's  say  a. 
The  feet  of  the  Madonna  are  never 


allowed  to  be  painted  or  engraved; 
and  it  was  contrary  to  court  etiquette 
to  allude  even  to  the  possibility  of  the 
Queens  of  Spain  having  legs :  they 
were  a  sort  of  royal  «ir«3«,  of  the  bird 
of  Paradise  species. 

Those  good  old  days  are  passed ;  and 
now  the  under-garments  of  the  maja 
and  haUarina,  dancer,  are  very  short, 
they  substitute  a  make-believe  trans- 
parent ^co  or  fringe,  after  the  Oriental 
fashion  (Numb.  xv.  38),  or  the  old 
Egyptian  (Wilk.  ii.  81).  The  Cartha- 
ginian Limbus  was  either  made  of  gold 
(Ovid,  Met,  iii.  61)  or  painted  (JS!». 
iv.  237).  Those  of  the  maja  are  en- 
riched with  cafwtilloy  bugles  or  gold 
filigree.  They  are  the  precise  xaXa^trte 
of  the  Greek  ladies,  the  instita  of  the 
Roman.  This  short  garment  is  made 
to  look  ample,  it  is  said,  by  sundry 
zaffalefos  or  intimoSy  under-petticoats, 
and  ingenious  contrivances  and  jupea 
houffawtes,  bustles,  and  so  forth ;  no 
todo  es  oro,  lo  que  reluce. 

The  foot,  although  it  ought  not  to 
be  shown,  figures  much  in  Spanish 
compliment.  A  loa  pies  de  Vmd.  is  a 
caballero's  salute  to  a  Senora.  JBeso  a 
Vmd.  lospies  is  extremely  polite.  If  a 
gentleman  vidshes  to  be  remembered  to 
his  friend's  vdfe,  he  says,  Lay  me  at 
her  feet. 

Bemember,  in  walking  on  this  or 
any  other  alameda,  never  to  ofier  a 
Spanish  lady  your  arm,  and  beware, 
also,  of  the  honest  EngUshman's  shake 
of  a  Spanish  lady's  hand,  noli  me  tan- 
gere.  She  only  gives  her  hand  with  her 
heart;  contact  conveys  an  electrical 
spark,  and  is  considered  shocking.  No 
wonder,  vdth  these  combined  attrac- 
tions of  person  and  costume,  that  the 
"  Ladies  of  Cadiz"  long  continued  to  be 
popidar  and  to  exercise  that  womano- 
crac^,  that  Twatxox^affM  which  Strabo 
(iii.  251)  was  ungallant  enough  to  con- 
demn in  their  Iberian  mothers.  But 
Strabo  was  a  bore,  and  these  were  the 
old  complaintsagainstthe  *'mantles  and 
whimples,"  i.  e.  la^  soyas  y  mawHllas 
of  the  Tyrian  women,  who,  as  the 
scholar  knows  (II.  vi.  290),  embroi- 
dered the  mantilla  of  Minerva's  image 


138 


EOUTE  1. — ^THE  FISH  OF  CADIZ.' 


Sect.  IT, 


But  Cadiz  was  the  eldest  daughter  of 
Tyre,  and  her  daughters  naturally  in- 
herited the  Sidonian  '*  stretchiDg  forth 
of  necks,  wanton  eyes,  walking  and 
mincing  as  they  go  "  (Isa.iu.6).  Alas! 
for  the  sad  changes  making  by  the 
commonplace  chapeau ! 

Barring  these  liying  objects  of  un- 
deniable antiquarian  and  present  in- 
terest, there  is  Uttle  else  to  be  seen  on 
this  Alameda  of  Cadiz.  The  principal 
building,  JEl  Carmen,  is  of  the  worst 
churri^tterismo :  inside  was  buried 
Adm.  Grayina,  who  commanded  the 
Spanish  fleet,  and  received  his  death- 
wound  at  Trafalgar.  Continuing  to 
the  E.  is  the  large  Aduana  or  Custom- 
house, disproportioned  indeed  to  fail- 
ing commerce  and  scanty  reyenu^, 
and  where  ererything  that  is  yicious 
and  anti-commercial  in  tariffs  is  wor- 
thily carried  out  by  officials  hatefiil 
everywhere  to  travellers.  Here  Ferd. 
VII.  was  confined  in  1823  by  the  con- 
stitutionalists. Thence  the  artist  should 
pass  to  the  Puerta  del  Mary  for  cos- 
tume, colour,  and  grouping.  Here  will 
be  seen  every  variety  of  fish,  and 
female  from  the  mantilhad  Senora  to 
the  brisk  Mttchttcha  in  her  gay  panttelo. 
The  ichthyophile  should  examine  the 
curious  varieties,  which  also  struck 
the  naturalists  and  gourmands  of  an- 
tiquity (Strabo,  iii.  214).  Here,  as  at 
GKbrsJtar,  the  monsters  of  the  deep 
in  form  and  colour,  blubbers,  scuttle- 
fishes,  and  marine  reptiles,  pass  de- 
scription ;  (Bs  triplex  indeed  must  have 
been  about  the  stomach  of.  the  man 
who  first  greatly  dared  to  dine  on 
them.  The  dog-fish,  the  JPintarojo, 
for  instance,  is  a  dehcacy  of  the  omni- 
vorous lower  classes,  who  eat  every- 
thing except  toads.  The  fish  of  the 
storm-vexed  Atlantic  is  superior  to 
that  of  the  languid  Mediterranean. 
The  best  here  are  the  San  Pedro,  or 
John  Dory,  our  corruption  from  the 
Italian  Jamtore,  so  called  because  it  is 
the  fish  which  the  Porter  of  Heaven 
caught  with  the  tribute-money  in  his 
mouth ;  the  Salmonetea,  the  red  mul- 
lets (the  Sultan  al  hut,  the  king  of 
"  hes  of  the  Moors)  are  right  royal : 


have  them  fried  simply  in  oil,  and  give 
directions  that  the  trail,  las  trvpas,  be 
left  in  them,  which  Spanish  cooks,  the 
worst  in  the  world,  otherwise  take  out ; 
here  may  be  seen  other  fishes  not  to 
be  found  in  Greenwich  kitchens  or  in 
English  dictionaries:  e,  g,  the  Juvel^ 
the  Savalo,  and  the  Mero,  which  latter 
ranks  among  fish  as  the  sheep  does 
among  animals,  en  la  tierra  el  camerOy 
en  la  mar  el  mero.  But  Ml  doradoy 
the  limated  gilt  head,  so  called  from  its 
golden  eyes  and  tmts,  if  eaten  with 
Tomata  sauce,  and  lubricated  with 
golden  sherry,  is  a  dish  fit  for  a  cardinal. 

The  new  prison  and  unfinished  Ms-  - 
cuela  de  Comercio  are  cited  by  natives 
among  their  hons.  The  handsome 
street,  la  CaUe  Ancha,  and  in  truth 
the  jonly  hroad  street,  is  the  lounge  of 
the  city ;  here  are  all  the  best  shops ; 
the  ca^a^  consistoriales  may  be  looked 
at.  The  chief  square,  and  reaUy  a 
square,  planted,  and  provided  with 
seats,  is  placed  under  the  protection  of 
San  Antonio,  because  hiis  statue  in 
1648  came  down  from  its  pedestal  to 
heal  some  sick.     (Feyron,  i.  243.) 

The  Cortes  of  Cadiz  sat  during  the 
war  of  independence  in  San  Felipe 
JSferi.  Their  debates  ended  Sept.  14, 
1813:  many  are  printed  in  16  vols., 
4to.  Diario  de  las  Cortes,  Cadiz, 
1811-12.  This  Spanish  Hansard  is 
rare,  Ferd.  VII.  having  ordered  all  the 
copies  to  be  burnt  by  the  hangman  as 
a  bonfire  on  the  first  birth-day  after 
his  restoration.  Whoever  will  open 
only  one  volume  must  admit  that  the 
pages  are  the  greatest  satire — ^the  Mo- 
niteur  excepted — which  any  set  of  mis- 
rulers  ever  published  on  themselves. 
The  best  speech  ever  made  there  was 
by  the  Duke  (Deo.  30, 1812),  after  his 
usual  energetic,  straightforward,  Eng- 
Ush  fashion. 

The  members  were  perfectly  insen- 
sible to  the  ludicrous  (fisproportion  of 
their  inflated  phraseology  with  facts ; 
vast. in  promise,  beggarly  in  perform- 
ance, well  might  the  performers  be 
called  Vocales,  for  theirs  was  vox  et 
prseterea  nihil :  an  idiot's  tale,  full  of 
sound  and  fury,  signifying  nothing,  be- 


AruMuda.        route  1. — ^el  Puerto  de  santa  maria. 


139 


ing  mere  Palahras,  palaver,  or  "  words, 
words,  words;"  "a  volley  of  words" 
instead  of  soldiers  ;  "  a  fbe  exchequer 
of  words  "  instead  of  cash.  The  curse 
of  poor  Spain  are  ih&se  juntas  or  cortesy 
caricatures  of  parliaments,  where  things 
are  talked  about  not  done,  or  if  done, 
done  badly;  it  is  adding  insult  to  injury 
when  the  forms  of  free  men  are  made 
instruments  of  tyranny. 

Now  as  few  things  alter  in  Spain, 
and  none  so  httle  as  any  goyeming 
body  of  any  kind,  hear  the  oracular 
Duke,  who  appears  at  once  to  have 
understood  the  Cortes  by  the  instinct 
of  strong  sense  :  "  The  leading  people 
among  them  have  invcMriahly  deceived 
the  lower  orders^  and  instead  of  mak- 
ing them  acquainted  with  their  real 
situation,  and  calling  upon  them  to 
make  the  exertions  and  the  sacrifices 
which  were  necessary  even  for  their  de- 
fence, they  have  amused  them  with  idle 
stories  of  imaginary  successes,  with 
yisionary  plans  of  offensive  operations, 
which  those  who  offer  them  for  consi- 
deration know  they  have  no  means  of 
executing,  and  with  the  hopes  of  driving 
the  French  out  of  the  Peninsula  by 
some  unlooked-for  good**  (Disp.,  May 
11,  1810).  Again,  "  It  is  extraordi- 
nary that  the  revolution  in  Spain 
should  not  have  produced  one  man 
with  any  knowledge  of  the  real  situ- 
ation of  his  countiT ;  it  really  appears 
as  if  they  were  all  drunk,  thinking  and 
talking  of  any  objects  but  Spain  :  how 
it  is  to  end  (Jod  knows !"  (Disp.,  Nov. 
1, 1812).  This,  however,  still  is  and 
has  long  been  the  hard  lot  of  this  ill- 
fated  country.  Spain,  says  Justin 
(xliv.  2),  never,  in  a  long  series  of  ages, 
produced  one  great  general  except  Y iri- 
atas,  and  he  was  but  a  guerrillero, 
like  the  Cid,  Muia,  or  Zumalacarregui. 
The  people,  indeed,  have  honest  hearts 
and  vigorous  arms,  but,  as  in  the  East- 
em  £fible,  a  head  is  wanting  to  the  body. 
The  many  have  been  sacSnficed  to  the 
few,  and  exposed  to  destitution  in  peace 
and  to  misfortune  in  war  by  unworthy 
rulers,  ever  and  only  intent  on  their 
own  selfish  interests,  to  the  injuiy 
of  their  fatherland  and  countrymen. 


Every  day  confirms  the  truth  of  the 
Duke's  remark  (Sept.  12,  1812) :  "  I 
really  beHeve  that  there  is  not  a  man 
in  the  coimtry  who  is  capable  of  com- 
prehending, much  less  of  conductiag^ 
any  great  concern." 

THE  BAY  OP  OASIZ. 

A  rail  is  in  contemplation  for  thi» 
circuit ;  but  in  Spain,  a  land  where,  a» 
in  the  East,  time  is  of  no  value,  and 
want  of  funds  the  chronic  complaint,, 
the  natives  seldom  do  to-day  what  can 
be  put  off  for  to-morrow,  their  beloved 
Manana ;  and  well  did  our  wise  Bacon 
wish  that  his  tardy  death  might  come 
&om  Spain:  me  venga  la  muerte  de 
Espana.  Even  rail  matters  here  move 
like  our  Court  of  Chancery;  in  fact> 
all  love  to  leave  something  for  poste- 
rity to  do,  and  do  not  go  to  work,  as- 
they  say,  con  esaJUria  que  por  dhi  se 
acostumbra,  como  si  el  mundo  sefuera 
adabar;  so  mean  time  take  a  boat. 

The  outer  bay  is  rather  exposed!; 
the  S.W.,  but  the  anchorage  in  the 
inner  portion  is  excellent.  Some  dan- 
gerous  rocks  are  scattered  opposite  the 
town,  in  the  direction  of  BiOta,  and 
are  eddied  Jjas  Puercas,  the  Sows — 
Xufetiii  ;  for  these  porcine  appellations 
are  as  common  in  Spanish  nomencla- 
ture as  among  the  ancients,  and  the 
hog-back  is  not  a  bad  simile  for  many 
of  such  rocky  formations.  Mota  lie& 
on  the  opposite  (west)  side  of  the  bay, 
and  is  distant  about  five  miles  across.. 
Here  the  tent  wine  used  for  our  sacra- 
ments is  ma^e ;  the  name  being  nothing^ 
but  the  Spanish  tintUla,  from  tinto^. 
red.  The  next  point  is  La  Puntilla^ 
and  then  that  defended  by  the  battery 
Sa,  Catalina, 

El  Pubbto  db  S*^-  Mabia,  Port 
St.  Mary,  and  usually  called  el  FuertOy. 
the  port  (o-Porto),  was  the  Portus  Me- 
nesthei  (Le  Min  Asta,  Portus  Asts),  a 
Pimic  word,  which  the  Greeks,  who,  aa 
usual,  caught  at  sound,  not  sense,  con- 
nected with  the  Athenian  Menestheus. 
It  lies  distant  from  Cadiz  8  1.  by  land,. 
2  1.  by  sea. 

Inns. — Near  the  landing-place  ifl  the 
Vista  alegre,  which  to  a  cheerful  look- 


140 


ROUTE  1. — CADIZ — THE  TROCADERO. 


Sect.  n. 


out  unites  cleannesB  and  sundry  English 
conveniences  rare  on  the  continent. 
Here  the  Ghiadalete  enters  the  hay ; 
the  har  is  dangerous,  and  much  ne- 
glected. In  the  days  of  sailing-hoats, 
prayers  to  the  blessed  souls  in  purga- 
tory and  making  crosses  were  chiefly 
resorted  to ;  now  small  steamers  go 
backwards  and  forwards  three  times 
a  day ;  the  passage  takes  from  half 
to  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  The 
Puerto  is  pleasant  and  well  built ; 
pop.  18,000.  The  river  is  crossed  by 
a  suspension  bridge  :  in  the  Plaza  de 
Toros  was  given  a  grand  bullfight  to 
the  Duke,  described  by  Byron,  better  as 
apoet,  than  as  a  correct  torero.  The  soil 
of  the  environs  is  rich,  and  the  water 
so  excellent  that  Cadiz  is  supplied 
with  it  to  the  cost  of  10,000^.  a-year, 
while  ancient  Glides  was  suppUed 
by  an  aqueduct,  wliich  O'Beilly  would 
have  restored  hsid  he  remained  in  office. 

The  Puerto f  one  of  the  three  great 
towns  of  wine  export,  vies  with  Xerez 
and  San  Lucar.  The  principal  houses 
are  French  and  English.  The  vicinity 
to  Cadiz,  the  centre  of  exchange,  is 
favourable  to  business,  while  the  road 
to  Xerez  is  convenient  for  conveying 
down  the  wines,  which  i»*e  apt  to  be 
staved  in  the  water-carriage  of  the 
Guadalete.  Among  the  best  houses 
may  be  named  Osborne  and  Duff  Gor- 
don, whose  AmowtUlado  is  matchless, 
Mousley,  Oldham,  Burdon  and  Gray, 
Pico,  Mora,  Heald,  Gorman  and  Co. 
The  hodegas  or  wine-stores  deserve  a 
visit,  although  those  of  Xerez  are  on  a 
grander  scale.  The  town  is  vinous 
and  uninteresting :  the  houses  resemble 
those  of  Cadiz  :  the  best  street  is  the 
Calle  Larga ;  the  prettiest  alameda  is 
la  Victoria.  Here  Ferd.  VII.  landed, 
Oct.  1, 1823,  when  dehvered  &om  the 
Constitutionalists  by  the  French,  and 
forthwith  proceeded  to  violate  every 
solemn  pledge  to  friend  and  foe.  Here, 
July  30, 1843,  Baldomero  Espartero, 
the  Regent  Duke,  driven  out  by  the 
intrigues  of  Louis  Philippe  and  Chris- 
tina, concluded  his  first  career  on  board 
a  British  line-of-battle  ship. 

The  bay  now  shelves  towards  Cdbe- 


zuela,  and  narrows  as  it  draws  to  the 
inner  division ;  the  mouth  is  defended 
by  the  cross-fires  of  the  forts  Mata- 
gorda and  Puntales.  At  the  latter 
Lord  Essex  landed  in  1596  and  did  take 
Cadiz ;  which  Victor  bombarded  from 
the  former  and  did  not  take.  Now  row 
up  the  Trocadero,  which  divides  an 
islet  from  the  main  land.  Fort  San 
Luis,  once  a  flourishing  place,  was 
ruined  by  Victor,  an  enemy,  in  1812, 
and  annihilated  by  Angoul^me,  an  ally, 
in  1823.  Of  his  taking  the  Troca- 
deroy  the  glory  of  the  Bestoration, 
even  Messieurs  Bory  de  St.  Vincent 
and  Laborde  are  ashamed.  The  French, 
led  by  the  ardent  and  aquatic  Gen. 
Goujon,  passed  through  four  and  a 
half  feet  of  water.  "  Les  constitu- 
tionnels  prirent  alors  la  fuite,"  so  the 
assailants,  *'sans  avoir  perdu  un  seul 
homme,"  carried  the  strong  fort,  "  sans 
effusion  de  sang."  Those  who  fight  and 
run  away,  may  Hve  to  fight  another  day. 
Yet  Mr.  Campbell,  when  Bacchi  plenus 
it  is  to  be  presumed,  apostrophised 
these  truly  quick  heroes  as  dead  ones : 

*•  Brave  men,  who  at  the  Trocadero  fell 
Beside  your  cannon,  conquered  not,  though 
slain." 

Matagorda  was  dismantled  by  Victor ; 
a  few  fragments  may  be  seen  at  very 
low  water. 

At  the  head  of  the  Trocadero,  and 
on  an  inner  bay,  is  Puerto  JReal^ 
founded  in  1488  by  Isabella.  This, 
despite  of  its  royalty^  is  a  tiresome 
poor  and  fishy  place  of  parallel  and 
rectangular  streets.  It  was  the  head- 
quarters of  Marshal  Victor,  who,  by 
way  of  leaving  a  parting  souvenir,  de- 
stroyed 900  houses.  Here  a  new  basin 
for  steamers  blessed  by  the  Bishop  in 
1846,  and  waltzed  in  by  the  ladies, 
still  excites  the  wonder  of  Cadiz. 
Opposite  is  the  river  or  canal  SawH  or 
Sancti  Petri  (the  Sancto  Petro  of  olden 
chronicles),  which  divides  the  Isla  from 
the  main  land.  On  the  land-bank  is 
one  of  the  chief  naval  arsenals  of  Spain, 
La  Carraca,  the  station  of  the  Cor- 
racaSf  the  carrackSf  galleons,  or  heavy 
ships  of  burden :  a  word  derived  from 
the  low  Latin  carricare,  to  load,  quoH 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  1. — LA  CARRACA  ARSENAL. 


141 


sea-carts.    The  Normans  myaded  these 
coasts  of  Spain  in  huge  vessels  called 
kardkir,    Tiina  town,  with  the  opposite 
one  of  San  Carlos,  was  founded  by 
Charles  III.  to  form  the  Portsmouth 
and  Woolwich  of  his  kingdom.    Pre- 
viously to  the  Bourbon  accession  Spain 
obtained  her  navies,  ready  equipped, 
from  Flanders,  but  uised  on  by  France, 
and  made  the  tool  of  the  family  com- 
pact, she  soon  warred  with  England ; 
and  now  La  CcMrraca^  like  £1  Ferrol 
and  Cartagena,  tells  the  result  of  quar- 
relling with  her  natural  Mend.    These 
are  emblems  of  Spain  fallen  from  her 
pride  of  place  through  Bourbon  friend- 
ship.     Every  thing  speaks  of  a  past 
magnificence.  A  present  silence  and  de- 
solation contrast  with  the  former  bustle 
of  this  once-crowded  dockyard,  where 
were  floated  those  noble  three-deckers, 
Nelson's  "  old  acquaintances."      The 
navy  of  Spain  in  1789  consisted  of  76 
line-of-battle  ships  and  52  frigates ;  now 
*'  the  Spanish  fleet  ye  cannot  see,  because 
it's  not  in  sight  j"  it  is  nearly  reduced 
to  that  armada^  decreed  to  be  built  in 
birthday  gazettes  of  1853.     In  truth 
non-commercial  Spain   (Catalonia  ex- 
cepted, which  is  not  Spain)  never  was 
r^lly  a  naval  power.    The  Arab  and 
Berber  repugnance  to  the  sea,  and  the 
confinement  of  the  ship,  still  marks 
the  Spaniard ;  and  now  the  loss  of  her 
colonies  has  rendered  it  impossible  for 
Spain  to   have   a   navy,  which  even 
CSiarles  III.  in  vain  attempted  to  force, 
although  Mons.  Gautier  was  his  ship- 
wright. 

How  changed  the  site  and  scene 
from  the  good  old  times  when  Mago 
here  moored  his  fleet,  and  Csesar  his 
long  gaUeys ;  when  Philip  anchored  the 
'Hwelve  apostles,"  the  treasure-galleons 
taken  by  Essex ;  when  Drake,  in  April, 
1587,  with  80  small  ships  destroyed 
more  than  lOOFrench  and  Spanish  "big 
braggarts,"  singeing,  as  he  said,  '*  the 
King  of  Spain's  whiskers ;"  here  were 
collected  in  after  times  the  40  sail  of 
the  line  prepared  to  invade  and  conquer 
England — St.  Vincent  and  Trafalgar 
settled  that;  here,  in  June,  1808,  5 
French  ships  of  the  line^  runaways 


from  Trafalgar  under  Mons.  Bosilly, 
surrendered  nominally  to  the  Spaniards, 
for  Collingwood,  by  blockading  Cadiz, 
had  rendered  escape  impossible. 

The  Santi  Petri  river,  the  water  key 
of  La  Isla,  is  deep,  and  defended  at  its 
mouth  by  a  rock-built  castle.  This, 
the  site  of  the  celebrated  temple  of 
Hercules,  was  called  by  the  Moors 
"  The  district  of  idols."  Those  remains 
which  the  sea  had  spared  have  chiefly 
been  used  up  by  the  Spaniards  as  a 
quanv.  Park  of  the  foundations  were 
seen  in  1755,  when  the  waters  retired 
during  the  earthquake.  For  the  rites 
of  tins  pagan  convent,  see  our  paper 
in  the  Quar.  Bev.  cxxvi.  283.  The 
river  is  crossed  by  the  Puente  de 
2ktazo^  so  called  from  the  alcaide  Juan 
Sanchez  de  Zuazo,  who  restored  it  in 
the  fifteenth  century.  It  is  of  Boman 
foundation,  and  was  constructed  by 
Balbus  to  serve  both  as  a  bridge  and 
an  aqueduct.  The  water  was  brought 
to  Cadiz  from  Tempul,  near  Xerez,  but 
both  were  destroyed  in  1262  by  the 
Moors.  The  tower  was  bxiilt  by  Alonso 
el  Sabio,  who  had  better  have  restored 
the  aqueduct.  This  bridge  was  the 
pons  asinorum  of  Victor,  as  the  En- 
glish never  suffered  him  to  cross  it. 
Here  the  Marshal  set  up  his  batteries, 
having  invented  a  new  mortar  capable 
of  throwing  shells  even  into  Cadiz. 
The  defeat  of  Marmont  by  the  Duke 
at  Salamanca  recoiled  on  M.  Victor 
— ctbntj  excesgit,  evcuUf  erupit.  Now 
his  failure  is  explained  away  by  the 
old  story,  "inferior  numbers."  The 
aUies,  according  to  M.  Belmas  (i.  138), 
amounted  to  30,000,  of  which  8000 
were  English  "  men  in  buckram," 
«  Victor  ayant  k  peine  20,000."  For 
once  Napoleon  told  the  truth  at  St. 
Helena  when  he  said,  Victor  etait  wn 
hSte,  sons  talens  et  sans  tSte, 

IVom  this  bridge  return  by  land 
through  La  Isla  de  Leon,  so  called  be* 
cause  granted  in  1459  to  the  Ponce  de 
Leon  family,  but  resumed  again  by  the 
crown  in  1484.  This  island  was  the 
Erythreea,  Aphrodisia,  Cotinusa,  Tar- 
tessus  of  the  uncertain  geography  of 
the  ancients.    Here  Geryon  (ri^y,  a 


142 


ROUTE  2. — CADIZ  TO  GIBRALTAR. 


Sect.  II. 


fine  old  fellow,  the  Stranger  in  the  He- 
brew) fed  those  fat  kine  which  Hercules 
** lifted;"  and  whose  golden  fleeces-^ 
fine  wool — tempted  the  Phoenecian  ar- 
gonauts; and  bis  descendant  the  Giron 
(Duque  de  Osuna)  is  still  the  great 
Lord  of  Andalucia ;  but  the  breed  of 
cattle  is  extinct,  for  Bsetican  beef,  or 
rather  vaca,  cow,  is  now  of  the  leanest 
kine,  and  the  bulls  are  better  for  bait- 
ing than  basteing. 

San  Fernando,  the  capital  of  the  Isla, 
is  a  straggling  decaying  town,  but  gay- 
looking  with  its  fimtastic  lattices  and 
house-tops,  and  the  bright  sun  which 
gilds  the  poverty.  Here  the  Junta  first 
halted  in  their  flight,  and  spouted 
(Sept.  24,  1810)  against  the  French 
cannon.  Salt,  the  staple,  is  made  in 
the  Salinas  and  the  marshes  below, 
where  the  conical  piles  glisten  like  the 
white  ghosts  of  the  British  tents,  when 
our  red  jackets  were  quartered  here. 
CThe  salt-pans  have  all  religious  names, 
like  the  line-of-battle  sbips  (when  there 
were  any),  the  wine-cellars  of  Xerez,  or 
the  mine-shafts  of  Almaden,  e,g.  JEl 
dulce  nombre  de  Jesus,  &c.  In  these 
marshes  breed  innumerable  small  crabs, 
^angrejos,  whose  fore-claws  are  tit-bits 
for  the  Andaluz  ichthyophile.  These 
bocas  de  la  Isla  are  torn  off  firom 
the  hying  animal,  who  is  then  turned 
Adrift,  that  the  claws  may  grow  again 
for  a  new  operation ;  chiuneleons  also 
Abound.  At  No.  38,  just  below  the 
Plaza,  Kiego  lodged,  and  proclaimed 
the  "constitution"  in  1820.  The 
secret  of  this  patriotism  was  a  dislike 
in  the  ill-supplied  semi-Berber  army, 
to  embark  in  the  South  Americ&n  ex- 
pedition with  which  Ferdinand  hoped 
to  reinforce  the  blunderer  Morillo. 

Passing  the  Torregorda,  the  busy, 
dusty,  crowded,  narrow  road  La  Cal- 
zada  is  carried  along  the  isthmus  to 
Cadiz.  Still  called  el  camino  de  Creoles, 
it  runs  where  ran  the  via  Heraclea  of 
the  Romans,  which  led  to  his  temple : 
nor  is  the  present  road  much  more 
.'Spanish,  since  it  was  planned  in  1785 
by  O'Beilly,  an  Irishman,  and  executed 
hy  Du  Bouriel,  a  Frenchman. 

A.  magnificent  outwork,  La  Corta- 


dura,  cuts  the  isthmus,  which,  suppos- 
ing it  had  guns  and  men,  and  either 
were  in  efficient  order,  it  would  defend. 
Now  Cadiz  is  approached  amid  heaps 
of  filth,  which  replace  the  pleasant 
gardens  demohshed  during  the  war. 
To  the  left  of  the  land-gate,  between 
the  Aguada  and  San  Jose,  is  the  Eng- 
Ush  burial-ground,  acquired  andplanted 
by  Sir  John  Brackenbury,  father  of  the 
present  consul,  for  the  bodies  of  poor 
heretics,  who  formerly  were  buried  in 
the  sea-sands  beyond  high-water  mark. 
Now  there  is  "  snug  lying  "  here,  which 
is  a  comfort  to  all  Protestants  who  con- 
template dying  at  Cadiz,  and  are  curious 
about  Christian  burial. 

Cadiz  is  soon  entered  by  the  land- 
gate,  the  Puerta  de  Tierra.  The  walls 
and  defences  are  sadly  dilapidated,  and 
might  be  taken  by  a  bold  boat's  crew. 
The  grand  secret  in  any  warfare  against 
Spanish  fleets,  forts,  or  armies,  is  to  at- 
tack them  instantly,  as  they  will  "  al- 
ways be  found  wanting  in  eyerything 
at  the  critical  moment." 

Cadiz  is  a  good  point  of  departure 
for  ships.  Vessels  sail  regularly  for  the 
Havana ;  steamers  proceed  to  England 
and  Egypt,  te  Portugal  and  the  Basque 
provinces  and  France  ;  also  to  Grib- 
raltar^  Valencia,  and  Marseilles.  Others 
navigate  the  G-uadalquiver  up  to  Seville, 
while  diUgences  run  by  land  to  Xerez 
and  on  to  Madrid.  The  days  and 
hours  of  departure  will  be  seen  pla- 
carded on  every  wall  and  are  known  at 
every  inn. 


Route  2. — Cadiz  to  Q-ibealtab,  by 
Los  Babbios  and  Tabifa. 


Ghiclana  '. 
Va.  de  Vejer 
Va.  Taibilla 
Va.  OJen  . 
Los  Barrios 
Gibraltar    . 


The  most  expeditious  mode  is  by  steam, 
and  the  passage  through  the  straits  is 
splendid.  The  ride  by  land,  for  there 
is  no  carriage  road,  has  been  accom- 
plished by  commercial  messengers  in 


Miles. 

13 

16    .. 

29 

U    .. 

43 

11     .. 

54 

9     .. 

63 

12     .. 

76 

AruMucia. 


ROUTE  2.— CHICLANA. 


143 


16  hours.  Taking  that  route,  the  better 
plan  is  to  leave  Cadiz  in  the  afternoon, 
sleep  at  CMclana  the  first  night,  and 
the  second  at  TaHfa.  Those  who 
diyide  the  journey  into  two  days, 
halt  first  at  Vejer;  jfrom  hence  there 
are  two  routes,  which  we  give  approxi- 
matively  in  miles — and  such  miles! 
The  first  route  is  the  shortest.  At  the 
Venta  de  Ojen  the  road  branches,  a 
track  leads  to  Algeciras,  10  m. ;  it  is  a 
wild  and  often  dangerous  ride,  espe- 
cially at  the  IVocha  pass,  which  is 
infested  with  smugglers  and  charcoal- 
burners,  who  occasionally  become  ra^e- 
ros  and  robbers.  At  aU  events,  "  attend 
to  the  provend,"  fill  the  bota  with  wine, 
and  the  basket  with  prog.    The  most 

interesting  route  is — 

Miles. 

Chiclana 13  .. 

Va.  de  Ve;Jer  ....  16  ..    29 

Va-TaibiUa    .     .     .     .  U  ..    43 

Tarifa 16  ..    69 

Algeciras 12  ..    71 

Gibraltar 9  ..    80 

Quitting  the  Isla  at  the  bridg3  of 
2uazo  we  reach  ChiclcMa^  on  a  gentle 
sandy  eminence.  Pop.  4000.     It  is  the 
laiiding  ^not  watering,  place  of  the  Cadiz 
merchants,  who,  weary  of  their  sea- 
prison,  come  here  to  enjoy  the  terra 
firma.    The  air  is  pure  and  the  baths 
luxurious.    It  is,  moreover,  a  sort  of 
medical  Botany  bay,  to  which  the  An- 
dalucian  faculty-  transports  those  many 
patients  whom  they  cannot  cure :  in 
compound  fractures  and  chronic  dis- 
orders, they  prescribe  bathing  here, 
.  ass's  nulk,  and  a  broth  made  of  a  long 
harmless  snake,  which  abounds  near 
Barrosa.    We  have  forgotten  the  ge- 
neric name  of  this  valuable  reptile  of 
Esculapius.      The    naturalist    should 
take  one  alive,  and  compare  him  with 
the  vipers  which  make  such  splendid 
pork  in  Estremadura   (see    Montan- 
ches),  or  with  lea  viperes  de  PoUoUy  to 
whose  broth  Mde.  de  Sevign^  attri- 
buted her  good  health.      (Let.  July 
8th,  1685.)     From  the  hill  of  Santa 
Ana  is  a  good  panorama;  3  L.  ofi*, 
sparkling,  hke  a  pearl  set  in  gold,  on  a 
lull  where  it  cannot  be  hid,  basks  Me- 
dina Sidoma,  Medinatu-Shidunah,  the 


city  of  Sidon,  thought  by  some  to  be 
the  site  of  the  Phoenician  Asidon,  but 
all  these  tit  bits  for  the  antiquarian 
are  "Caviare  to  the  general."  Ths 
sulphur-baths  here,  especially  the  JVt- 
en^  amarga^  are  much  used  in  cuta- 
neous and  cachetic  complaints. 

The  town  looks  pretty  from  afar 
with  its  white  houses,  gardens,  and 
painted  railings,  but  it  is  iU-paved, 
worse  drained  and  lighted,  and,  in 
fact,  is  not  worth  visiting,  being  a 
whitened  sepulchre  full  of  decay ;  and 
this  may  be  predicated  of  many  of 
these  hill-fort  towns,  which,  ghttering 
in  the  bright  sun,  and  picturesque  in 
form  and  situation,  appear  in  the  en- 
chantment-lending distance  to  be  fiiiry 
residences  :  all  this  illusion  is  dispelled 
on  entering  into  these  dens  or  dirt, 
ruin,  and  poverty :  reaUty,  which  like 
a  shadow  follows  all  too  highly-excited 
expectations,  darkens  the  bright  dream 
of  poetical  fancy.  Yet  what  would  life 
be  without  hope^  which  still  cheers 
man  on,  undaunted  by  experience. 
Again,  once  for  all,  it  may  be  said 
that  generally  the  correlative  of  the  pic- 
turesque is  the  uncomfortable,  and  the 
better  the  food  for  the  painter's  eye 
outside  the  town,  the  worse  the  chance 
of  bed  and  board  inside. 

Nothing  can  be  more  different  than 
the  aspect  of  Spanish  villages  in  fine 
or  in  bad  weather;  as  in  the  East, 
during  wintry  rains  they  are  the  acmes 
of  mud  and  misery :  let  but  the  sun 
shine  out,  and  all  is  gilded.  His  beam 
is  like  the  smile  which  lights  up  the 
habitually  sad  expression  of  a  Spanish 
woman.  Fortunately,  in  the  south  of 
Spain,  fine  weather  is  the  rule,  and 
not,  as  among  ourselves,  the  excep- 
tion. The  blessed  sun  cheers  poverty 
itself,  and  by  its  stimulating,  exhila- 
rating action  on  the  system  of  man, 
enables  him  to  buffet  against  the  moral 
evils  to  which  coimtries  the  most  fa- 
voured by  climate  seem,  as  if  it  were 
from  compensation,  to  be  more  ex- 
posed than  those  where  the  skies  are 
dull,  and  the  winds  bleak  and  cold. 
Medina  Sidonia  gives  the  ducal  title  to 
the  descendants  of  Ghtzman  el  BuenOj 


144 


ROUTE  2. — BAEROSA. — THE  BATTLE. 


Sect.  11. 


to  whom  all  lands  lying  between  the 
Gnudalete  and  Guadairo  were  granted 
for  his  defence  of  Tarifa.  The  city 
was  one  of  the  strongest  holds  of  the 
fS&mily.  Here  the  fascinating  %  Leonora 
de  Guzman,  mistress  of  the  chivalrous 
Alonso  X[.,  and  mother  of  Henry  of 
Trastamara,  fled  from  the  yengeance  of 
Alonso's  widow  and  her  son  Don 
Pedro.  Here  again  that  cruel  king, 
in  1361,  imprisoned  and  put  to  death 
his  ill-fated  wife  Blanche  of  Bourbon, 
— ^the  MaiT-  Stuart  of  Spanish  ballads, 
— ^beautiful,  and,  like  her,  of  suspected 
chastity ;  this  execution  cost  Pedro  his 
life  and  crown,  as  it  furnished  to  France 
an  ostensible  reason  for  invading  Spain, 
and  placing  the  anti-English  Henry  of 
Trastamara  on  the  throne. 

Leaving  Chiclana,  the  track  soon 
enters  into  wild  sandy  aromatic  pine- 
clad,  snake-peopled  solitudes :  to  the 
r.  rises  the  immortal  knoll  of  Barrosa. 
When  Soult,  in  1811,  left  Seville  to 
reUeve  Badajoz,  an  opportunity  was 
offered  the  Spaniards,  by  attacking 
Victor  in  the  flank,  of  raising  the  siege 
of  Cadiz.  The  expedition  was  in  an 
evil  hour  entrusted  to  Manuel  de  la 
Pena,  a  fool  and  a  coward,  but  the 
fitvoured  creature  of  the  Duchess  of 
Osuna.  The  expedition  was  misman- 
aged by  this  incapable  from  beginning 
to  end.  In  February,  11,200  Spani- 
ards, 4300  English  and  Portuguese, 
were  landed  at  the  distant  Tarifa, 
when  La  Pena,  instead  of  resting  at 
Conil,  brought  the  English  to  the 
ground  after  24  hours  oi  intense  toil 
and  starvation.  Graham,  contrary  to 
his  orders,  had  injudiciously  ceded  the 
command  in  chief  to  the  Spaniard, 
who,  on  arriving  in  the  critical  mo- 
ment, skulked  himself  away  towards 
the  Santi  Petri,  ordering  Graham  to 
descend  from  the  Sierra  del  Puerco 
the  real  key,  to  the  Torre  Bermeja^ 
distant  nearly  a  league.  The  French, 
who  saw  the  error,  made  a  splen- 
did rush  for  this  important  height : 
but  the  gallant  Grrseme,  although  left 
alone  in  the  plain  with  his  feeble, 
starving  band,  and  scarcely  having  time 
to  form  his  lines,  the  rear  rank  fighting 


in  front,  instantly  defied  the  united 
brigades  of  Buffi^  and  Laval,  com- 
manded by  Victor  in  person,  and  having 
riddled  the  head  of  their  columns  with 
a  deadly  fire,  then  charged  with  the 
bayonet  in  the  "  old  style :"  an  hour  and 
a  half  settled  the  affair  by  a  "  sauve 
qui  pent."  Victor  decamped,  while 
La  Pena  did  not  even  dare  to  follow 
up  and  finish  the  flying  foe.  No  single 
stroke  was  struck  that  day  by  Spanish 
sabre:  but  assistance  from  Spain  ar- 
rives either  slowly  or  never.  Socorros 
de  Sspana  tarde  o  "STTSQk,  This  is  a 
very  fisivourite  Spanish  proverb  ;  for 
the  shrewd  people  revenge  themselves 
by  a  refran  on  the  culpable  want  of 
means  and  forethought  of  their  incom- 
petent rulers :  Gonzalo  de  CJordova 
used  to  compare  such  help  fco  San  Telmo 
(see  Tuy),  who,  like  Castor  and  Pol- 
lux, never  appears  until  the  storm  is 
over.  Blessed  is  the  man,  said  the 
Moorish  general,  who  expects  no  aid, 
for  then  he  will  not  be  disappohited. 

Graham  remained  master  of  the 
field.  Then,  had  La  Pena,  who  had 
thousands  of  fresh  troops,  but  moved 
one  step,  Barrosa  would  indeed  have 
been  contemporaneous  with  Torres 
Vedras,  for  on  that  very  day  Massena 
too  began  his  retreat.  Victor,  when 
he  saw  that  he  was  not  followed,  re- 
covered from  his  panic,  and  indited  a 
bulletin,  "how  he  had  beaten  back 
8000  Englishmen."  Now-a-days  our 
lively  neighbours  claim  a  more  com- 
plete victory,  and,  entering  into  details, 
relate  how  Graham's  triple  hne,  witli 
3000  men  in  each,"  was  culbute  by  the 
French,  who  were  "  un  centre  deux," 
and  that  "  the  loss  of  the  eagles  was 
solely  owing  to  the  accidental  death  of 
the  ensigns."    How  very  unlucky ! 

Touching  the  real  truth  of  this  en- 
gagement at  Barrosa,  what  says  the 
Duke  (Disp.,  March  25, 1811),  to  whom 
Graham  had  thought  it  necessary  to 
apologise  for  the  rashness  of  attacking 
with  his  handfrd  two  entire  French 
divisions? — "I  congratulate  you  and 
your  brave  troops  on  the  signed  victory 
which  you  gained  on  the  6th ;  I  have 
no  doubt  whatever  that  their  succesa 


Anddluda. 


ROUTE  2. — ^TRAFALGAR — ^THE  TUNNIES. 


145 


would  have,  liad  the  effect  of  raising 
the  siege  of  Cadiz,  if  the  Spanish  troops 
had  made  any  effort  to  assist  them. 
The  conduct  of  the  Spaniards  through- 
out this  expedition  is  precisely  the 
same  as  I  have  ever  observed  it  to  be : 
they  march  the  troops  night  and  day 
without  provisions  or  rest,  and  abusing 
everybody  who  proposes  a  moment's 
delay  to  afford  either  to  the  fatigued 
or  famished  soldiers ;  they  reach  the 
enemy  in  such  a  state  as  to  be  unable 
to  make  any  exertion  or  execut-e  any 
plan,  even  if  any  plan  had  been  formed  j 
they  are  totally  incapable  of  any  move- 
ment, and  they  stand  to  see  their  allies 
destroyed,  and  afterwards  abuse  them 
because  they  do  not  continue,  unsup- 
ported, exertions  to  which  human  na- 
ture is  not  equal."  La  Peiia,  once 
safe  in  Cadiz,  claimed  the  victory  as 
Jiia!  and  now  the  EngUsh  are  either 
not  mentioned  at  all  by  Spanish  his- 
torians (Tgartuburu,  p.  179,  Madoz, 
vii.  324),  or  the  ultimate  failure  of  the 
expedition  is  ascribed  to  our  retreat! 
(Maldonado,  iii.  29.)  La  Pena,  el  delin- 
cuente  honrado,  was  decorated  with  the 
star  of  Carlos  III.!  and  Ferd.  VII., 
in  1815,  created  a  new  order  for  this 
brilliant  Spanish  victory ! !  The  Cortes 
propounded  to  G-raham  a  grandeeship, 
as  a  sop,  which  he  scornfully  refused. 
The  title  proposed,  Duque  del  derro 
del  JPuerco  (Duke  of  Pig's-hill),  was  in 
truth  more  euphonious  among  bacon- 
loving  Spaniards  than  ourselves. 

Buonaparte  attributed  Victor's  eiefeai 
to  Sebastiani  (Belm.  i.  518,  25),  who, 
influenced  by  jealousy  of  his  colleague, 
confined  himself  to  advancing  to  San 
JRoque^  where  he  remained  pillaging. 

Barrosa  was  another  ot  the  many 
instances  of  the  failures  which  the 
disunion  of  Buonaparte's  generals  en- 
tailed on  their  arms.  These  rivals 
never  would  act  cordially  together :  as 
the  Duke  observed  when  enclosing  an 
intercepted  letter  from  Marmont  to 
Foy,  "  This  shows  how  iAndsegemtry  are 
going  on ;  in  fact,  each  marshal  is  the 
7iaturalenQrD.j  of  the  king  (Joseph)  and 
of  his  neighbouring  marshal"  (Disp., 
Nov.  13, 1811). 

Spain, — I. 


The  ride  from  Barrosa  to  Tarifa 
passes  over  uncultivated,  unpeopled 
wastes.  The  country  remains  as  it  was 
left  after  the  discomfiture  of  the  Moor, 
or  looks  as  if  man  had  not  yet  been 
created.  To  the  r.  is  Conil.  3  L.  from 
Cliiclana,  and  1 L.  from  Cape  Trafalgar. 
Pop.  3000.  Bmlt  by  Guzman  el  Bueno, 
it  was  famous  for  its  tunny  fisheries.  In 
May  and  June  the  fish  return  into  the 
Atlantic  from  the  Mediterranean .  The 
almadrabay  or  catching,  a  most  Arabic 
affair,  as  the  name  implies,  used  to 
be  a  season  of  great  festivity.  For- 
merly 70,000  fish  were  taken,  now 
scarcely  4^000  j  the  Lisbon  earthquake 
of  1755  having  thrown  up  sands  on 
the  coast,  by  which  the  fish  are  driven 
into  deeper  water :  the  "  aiun  escahe- 
chado"  or  pickled  tunny,  is  the  Tct^t- 
Xi*»*i  the  "  Salsamenta,"  with  which 
and  dancing  girls,  Gfides  suppHed  the 
Roman  epicures  and  amateurs.  Ar- 
chestratus,  who  made  a  gastronomic 
tour,  thought  the  under  fillet  to  be  the 
incarnation  of  the  immortal  gods. 
Near  Conil  much  sulphur  is  found. 

The  long,  low,  sandy  lines  of  2Va- 
falgar  (Promontorium  Junonis,  hence- 
forward Nelsonis)  now  stretch  towards 
Tarifa;  the  Arabic  name,  Taraf-al- 
ghar,  signifies  the  promontory  of  the 
cave.  This  cape  bore  about  8  m.  N.E. 
over  those  hallowed  waters  where  Nel- 
son, fehx  opportunitate  mortis,  sealed 
the  empire  of  the  sea  with  his  life- 
blood  ;  for  things  so  great  can  only  be 
carried  through  by  death:  Nelson  was 
that  glorious  concentration  of  national 
spirit,  which  made  and  will  make  every 
EngUsh  sailor  do  his  duty  to  the  end 
of  time. 

Trafalgar — tanto  nomini  nullum  par 
eulogium — changed  Buonaparte's  vi- 
sion'ary  invasion  of  England,  into  the 
real  one  of  France;  England  left  now 
with  no  more  enemies  on  the«<?a,  turned 
to  the  land  for  an  arena  of  victory. 
The  spirit  of  the  Black  Prince  and  of 
Marlborough,  of  Wolfe  and  of  Aber- 
crombie  awoke,  the  sails  were  furled, 
and  that  handftd  cf  infantry  landed 
on  the  most  western  rocks  of  the  Pen- 
insula which  marched  in  one  triumph- 


146 


ROUTE  2. — TRAFALGAR — THE  BATTLE. 


Sect.  II. 


ant  course  until  it  planted  its  red  flag 
on  the  walls  of  Paris.  This  doing  the 
old  thing  in  the  old  style  is  thus  plea- 
santly referred  to  by  M.  Foy,  i.  197 : 
**  Bientot  cet  art  nouveau !  pour  les 
Anglais  allait  leur  devoir  n^cessaire 
presque  h,  I'egal  de  la  science  navale." 

Nelson,  on  the  memorable  Oct.  21, 
1805,  commanded  27  small  ships  of  the 
line  and  only  four  frigates :  the  latter, 
his  "eyes"  were  wanting  as  usual ;  he 
had  prayed  for  them  in  vain,  from  our 
wretched  admiralty,  as  the  Duke  did 
afterwards.  The  enemy  had  33  sail  of 
the  line,  many  of  them  three-deckers, 
and  seven  frigates.  Nelson,  as  soon, 
as  they  ventured  out  of  Cadiz,  consi- 
dered them  "his  property ;"  he  "bar- 
gained for  20  at  least."  He  never  re- 
garded disparity  of  numbers,  nor  count- 
ed an  enemy's  fleet  except  when  prizes 
after  the  battle — synonymous  with  him 
with  victory.  He,  with  hope  deferred, 
had  long  chased  them  over  wide  seas, 
in  full  cry,  every  rag  set,  every  sail  burst- 
ing with  impatience,  and  No.  16  sig- 
nal for  "close  action"  hoisted;  and  now, 
when  at  last  he  saw  them,  it  was  to 
give  his  "Nelsonic  touch"  no  "drawn 
battles  now,"  but  simple — Annihilation. 

Nelson  was  wounded  at  a  quarter 
before  one,  and  died  30  minutes  past 
fom\  He  lived  long  enough  to  know 
that  his  triumph  was  complete,  and 
the  last  sweet  sounds  his  dying  ears 
caught  were  the  guns  fired  at  the  flying 
foe.  He  died  on  board  his  beloved 
"Victory,"  and  in  the  arms  of  its  pre- 
siding tutelar,  only  47  years  old :  "yet," 
says  Southey,  "he  cannot  be  said  to 
have  fallen  prematurely  whose  work 
was  done,  nor  ought  he  to  be'  lamented 
who  died  so  ftdl  of  honours  at  the 
height  of  human  fame,  and  if  the  cha- 
riot and  the  horses  of  fire  had  been 
vouchsafed  for  Nelson's  translation,  he 
could  scarcely  have  departed  in  a 
brighter  blaze  of  glory.  He  has  left  us 
not,  indeed,  his  mantle  of  inspiration, 
but  a  name  and  example  which  are  at 
this  hour  inspiring  thousands  of  the 
youth  of  England ;  a  name  which  is  our 
pride,  and  an  example,  wliich  will  con- 
'  lue  to  be  our  shield  and  our  strength. 


Thus  it  is  that  the  spirits  of  the  great 
and  wise  continue  to  live  and  to  act  after 
them."     This  indeed  is  immortality. 

The  Spaniards  fought  well  at  Tra- 
falga/r^  the  nadir  of  their  marine,  as 
Lepanto  was  its  zenith :  Qravina,  their 
gaUant  noble  admiral  was  wounded  and 
died,  refusing  to  have  his  arm  amputa- 
ted, and  telling  Dr.  FeUowes,  that  he 
was  going  to  join  Nehon,  the  "greatest 
man  the  world  has  ever  produced." 

The  French  vice-admiral,  Dumanoir, 
having  kept  out  of  the  action,  fled  at 
the  close,  "  backing  liis  topsails,"  says 
Southey,  "to  fire  into  the  captured 
Spanish  ships  as  he  passed,"  when 
the  indignant  crews  intreated  to  be  al- 
lowed to  serve  against  their  quondam 
allies.  This  Dumanoir,  with  four  run- 
aways, was  caught,  Nov.  4,  ofl*  Cape 
Finisterre  by  Sir  Richard  Strachan, 
when  all  were  taken,  liis  own  ship,  the 
"  Formidable"  being  the  first  to  strike. 
This  man,  who,  Southey  thought, 
"ought  to  have  been  hanged  in  the 
sight  of  the  remains  of  the  Spanish 
fleet,"  was  acquitted  at  Toulon,  l]«cause 
he  had  ^^  manoeuvre  selon  V impulsion  d/u 
DEYOIB  et  de  fhonneur!^*  and  was 
made  a  coimt  in  1814  by  Louis  XVIII. 
Nelson's  notions  of  honour,  duty  and 
manoeuvring  were  after  a  different  fa- 
shion. His  manoeuvre — a  nautical  no- 
velty indeed — was  to  break  the  long 
line  of  the  foe  with  a  short  double  line ; 
a  manoeuvre  which  few  foreign  fleets 
will  try  against  an  Enghsh  squadron, 
whose  guns  would  sink  their  opponents 
as  they  approached  singly ;  however 
accordmg  to  M.  de  Montferrier,  *Dic- 
tionnaire  de  la  Marine,'  Paris  1841, 
"  C'est  ik  cette  science,  la  m^noeuvre^ 
que  la  marine  Fran9aise  doit  toutes  ses 
victoires;  en  effet,  il  n'y  a  point 
d'exemple,  oil,  k  forces  ^gales,  une  ar- 
m^  Anglaise  nous  ait  battus !" 

Be  that  as  it  may,  some  how 
or  another,  this  Tra&lgar  ^^  settled 
JBonetf*^  by  sea,  to  use  the  Duke^s 
phrase,  when  he  did  him  that  ser- 
vice by  lands  all  his  paper  projects 
about  "ships,  colonies  and  commerce," 
all  his  fond  phrases  of  "French  lakes," 
were  blown  to  the  winds;  accordingly. 


Andalucia.    route  2. — ^French  versions  of  Trafalgar. 


147 


he  omitted  all  allusion  to  Trafalgar 
in  the  French  papers,  as  he  after- 
wards did  the  Dune's  victories  in 
Spain.  Thus  Pompey  never  allowed 
his  reverses  in  the  Peninsula  to  he  pub- 
lished (Hirt.  B,  H.  18).  Buonaparte 
received  the  news  of  his  misfortunes  at 
Vienna,  which  clouded  le  soleil  (TAus- 
terlitz  with  an  EngUsh  fog:  his  fury 
was  imboimded,  and  he  exclaimed, 
"Je  saurai  bien  apprendre  aux  ami- 
rau^  Fran^ais  k  vaincre"  (F,  et  C. 
XTI.  197). 

Five  months  afterwards  he  slightly 
alluded  to  this  accidental  disaster,  as- 
scribing  it,  as  the  Spaniards  falsely  do 
the  destruction  of  their  invincible  ar- 
mada, not  to  English  tars,  but  the 
winds :  "  Les  temp^tes  nous  ont  fait 
perdre  quelques  vaisseaux,  apr^s  un 
combat  imprudemment  engage."  Yet 
YiUeneuve  had  that  decided  numerical 
superiority  without  which,  according 
to  Buonaparte's  express  orders,  an 
English  fleet  was  never  to  be  attacked 
and  our  sole  unsubsidised  allies,  "les 
tempStes,"  in  real  truth  occasioned  to 
us  the  loss  of  many  captured  ships ; 
a  storm  arose  after  the  victory,  and  the 
disabled  conquerors  and  vanquished 
were  buffeted  on  the  merciless  coast : 
many  of  the  prizes  were  destroyed. 
The  dying  orders  of  Nelson,  "  Anchor, 
Hardy!  Anchor!"  were  disobeyed  by 
CoUingwood,  whose  first  speech  on  as- 
suming the  command  was,  "Well! 
that  is  the  last  thing  that  I  should  have 
thought  of!"  Collingwood  also  made 
another  small  mistake  in  his  dispatch : 
Nelson  did  not  "die  soon  afrer  his 
wound  5"  .he  lived  to  gain  the  whole 
victory. 

Although  none  on  either  side  of  the 
Pyrenees  have  yet  claimed  Trafalgar  as 
their  victory,  yet  all  are  convinced,  had 
real  nautiool  valour  and  science  not 
been  marred  by  fortune  and  accident, 
that  it  ought  not  to  have  been  ours. 
Every  lie  circumstantial  was  published 
at  the  time ;  thus  the  Journal  de  JPa- 
ris,  Dec.  7,  1805,  added  8  ships  of  the 
line  to  the  English  squadron,  whUe 
the  Gazetta  de  Madrid,  of  the  19th, 
added  12.    Although  all  these  inven- 


tions are  disposed  of  by  Sir  Harris  Ni- 
colas in  Nelson's  Dispatches,  immortal 
as  those  of  the  Duke,  the  controversy 
is  not  ended ;  and  the  Spaniards  have 
taken  such  offence  at  their  allies'  ver- 
sion of  Trafalgar,  as  given  by  M.  Thiers 
in  his  Histoire  du  Consulat,  Lib.  xxii., 
and  especially  at  the  sneer  that  five 
Spanish  men  of  war  then  and  there  fled, 
having  "  sauv^  leur  existence  .beaucoup 
plus  que  leur  honneur ; "  that  a  grave 
refutation  was  put  forth  at  Madrid  in 
1850  by  Manuel  Marliani,  and  it  is  a 
very  pretty  quarrel  as  it  stands ;  mean- 
time both  of  the  beaten  parties  contend 
that  each  of  their  single  ships  was  at- 
tacked by  five  or  six  English.  The  real 
heroes  of  the  day  and  their  defaite  hero- 
ique  were  either  Senores  Churraco,  Q«- 
liano,  &c.,  or  Messieurs  Lucas,  Magon, 
&c.,  small  mention  being  made  of  the 
nobody  Nelson,  a  sort  01  loup-marin,  a 
man,  according  to  M.Thiers,  assez  home 
when  off  his  quarter-deck.  The  French 
Admiral  YiUeneuve  was  said  to  have 
killed  himself  in  despair  at  his  disgrace, 
but,  says  Southey,  "  there  is  every  rea- 
son to  conclude  that  the  tyrant  added 
him  to  the  numerous  victims  of  his 
murderous  pohcy,"  and  the  silence  ob- 
served in  the  *Moniteur'  strengthens 
this  suspicion  (see  Vict,  et  Conq^,  XTi. 
198). 

The  country  now  presenj^s  a  true 
picture  of  a  Spanish  dehesa  y  despo- 
hlado.  The  rich  soil,  under  a  vivifying 
sun,  is  given  up  to  the  wild  plant  and 
insect :  earth  and  air  teem  with  life. 
There  is  a  melancholy  grandeur  in 
these  solitudes,  where  Nature  is  busy 
at  her  mighty  work  of  creation,  heed- 
less of  the  absence  or  presence  of  the 
larger  insect  man.  Vejer — Bekkeh — 
offers  a  true  specimen  of  a  Moorish 
town,  scramBling  up  a  precipitous  em- 
inence. Pop.  9000.  The  venta  Ues 
below,  near  the  bridge  over  the  Bar* 
bate.  Here  Quesada,  in  March,  1831, 
put  down  an  abortive  insurrection.  Six 
himdred  soldiers  had  been  gained  over 
at  Cadiz  by  the  emissaries  of  Torrijos. 
The  loss  in  the  whole  contest,  on  which 
for  the  moment  the  monarchy  hung, 
was  one  killed,  two  wounded,  and  tw 

H  2 


148 


ROUTE  2. — TUE  STRAITS  OF  GIBRALTAH. 


Sect.  n. 


bruised.  According  to  Queseda's  bul- 
letin, worthy  of  his  namesake  Don 
Quixote,  his  troops  performed  ^^prodi- 
gios  de  valor!"  a  shower  of  crosses 
were  bestowed  on  the  conquering 
heroes.  Such  are  the  guerrillas,  the 
truly  "little  wars"  wluch  Spaniards 
wage  infer  se ;  and  they  may  be  well 
compared  to  the  wretched  productions 
of  some  of  the  minor  theatres,  in  which 
the  vapouring  of  bad  actors  supphes 
the  place  of  dramatic  interest,  and  the 
plot  is  perpetually  interrupted  by 
scene-shifting,  paltry  coups  de  thedtre, 
and  an  occasional  explosion  of  mus- 
ketry and  blue  lights,  with  much  smoke 
(of  cigaritos). 

A  mile  inland  is  the  Laguna  de 
Janda.  Near  this  lake,  Taric,  landing 
from  Africa,  April  30, 711,  encountered 
Boderick,  the  last  of  the  G-oths.  Here 
the  action  commenced,  July  19,  which 
was  decided  July  26,  on  the  Guadalete, 
near  Xerez.  This  one  battle  gave 
Spain  to  the  Moslem ;  the  secret  of 
whose  easy  conquest  lay  in  the  civil 
dissensions  among  the  Goths,  and  the 
aid  the  invaders  obtained  from  the 
monied  Jews,  who  were  persecuted  by 
the  Gothic  clergy.  Taric  and  Musa, 
the  two  victorious  generals,  received 
from  the  caliph  of  Damascus  that  re- 
ward which  since  has  become  a  stand- 
ing example  to  jealous  Spanish  rulers  ; 
they  were  recalled,  disgraced,  and  died 
in  obscurity.  Such  was  the  fia,te  of 
Columbus,  Cortes,  the  Great  Captain, 
Spinola,  and  others  who  have  con- 
quered kingdoms  for  Spain. 

At  the  Va.  de  Taibilla  the  track 
branches ;  that  to  the  1.  leads  to  the 
an'ocha,  while  a  picturesque  gorge  to 
the  rt.,  studded  with  nagments  of 
former  Moorish  bridges  and  causeways, 
leads  to  the  sea-shore,  jtt  the  tower 
Xa  Peua  del  Ciervo,  the  Highar  Egg61 
of  the  Moors,  the  coast  opens  in  all 
its  grandeur. 

"  Where  Mauritania's  giant  shadows  frown. 
From  mountain-cliffs  descending  sombre 
down." 

And  here  let  the    wearied    traveller 

""^ipose  a  moment  and  gaze  on  the  mag- 

-'ent  panorama!      Africa,  no  land 


I  of  desert  sand,  rises  abruptly  out  of 
the  sea,  in  a  tremendous  jumble,  and 
backed  by  the  eternal  snows  of  the 
Atlas  range ;  two  continents  lie  before 
us :  we  have  reached  the  extremities  of 
the  ancient  world ;  a  narrow  gulf  di- 
vides the  lands  of  knowledge,  liberty, 
and  civilisation,  from  the  imtrodden 
regions  of  barbarous  ignorance,  of 
slavery,  danger,  and  mystery.  Yon 
headland  is  Trafftlgar.  Tarifa  juts  out 
before  us,  and  the  plains  of  Salado,< 
where  the  Cross  triumphed  over  the 
Crescent.  The  whit«  walls  of  Tangiers 
glitter  on  the  opposite  coast,  resting, 
like  a  snow-wreath,  on  dark  moun- 
tains :  behind  them  lies  the  desert, 
the  den  of  the  wild  beast  and  of 
wilder  man.  The  separated  continents 
stand  aloof^. frowning  sternly  on  each 
other  with  the  cold  injurious  look  of 
altered  kindness.  They  were  once 
united ;  "  a  dreary  sea  now  flows  be- 
tween," and  severs  them  for  ever.  A 
thousand  ships  hurry  through,  laden 
with  the  commerce  of  the  world :  every 
sail  is  strained  to  fly  past  those  waters, 
deeper  than  ever  plummet  sounded, 
where  neither  sea  nor  land  are  friendly 
to  the  Etranger.  Beyond  that  point 
is  the  bay  of  Gribraltar,  and  on  that 
gray  rock,  the  object  of  a  himdred 
fights,  and  bristling  with  twice  ten  hun- 
dred cannon,  the  red  flag  of  England, 
on  which  the  sun  never  sets,  still  braves 
the  battle  and  the  breeze.  Far  in  the 
distance  the  blue  Mediterranean 
stretches  itself  away  like  a  sleeping  lake. 
Europe  and  Africa  recede  gently  frtjm 
each  other ;  coast,  cape,  and  mountain, 
face,  form,  and  nature,  how  alike !  Man, 
his  laws,  works,  and  creeds,  how  dif- 
ferent and  opposed ! 

It  is  geologically  certain  that  the 
two  continents  were  once  united  by  a 
dip  or  valley,  as  is  proved  by  the  vari- 
ations of  soundings.  The  "wonder- 
working" Hercules  (t.  e,  the  Phoeni- 
cians) is  said  to  have  cut  a  canal 
between  them.  The  Moors  had  a 
tradition  that  this  was  the  work  of 
Alexander  the  Great  (Ishkhander),  who 
built  a  bridge  across  the  openuig,  then 
Tery  narrow  j  it  gradually  widened  un- 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  2 — THE  MEDrTERRANEAN, 


149 


til  all  further  increase  was  stopped  by 
the  high  lands  on  each  side.  On  these 
matters  consult  Pliny,  *  N.  H.*  iii.  3, 
and  the  authorities  cited  in  our  paper, 
Quar.  Rev.  cxxvi.  293. ' 

The  Moors  called  the  Mediterranean 
the  White  iSe^jBahr  elAbiad,  and  Bahr 
Hum,  the  JRoman  Sea;  they  termed 
this  SstrechOy  this  Strait,  which  our 
tars  have  vulgarised  into  the  "  Gut," 
Bab-ez-zakak,  the  "  gate  of  the  narrow 
passage."  The  length  of  the  straits 
from  Cape  Spartel  to  Ceuta  in  Africa, 
and  from  TraMgar  to  Europa  Point 
in  Spain,  is  about  12  L.  The  W.  en- 
trance is  about  8  L.  across,  the  E.  about 
5  L. ;  the  narrowest  point  is  at  Tarifa, 
about  12  m.  A  constant  current  sets 
in  from  the  Atlantic  at  the  rate  of 
2J  m.  per  hour,  and  is  perceptible  150 
m.  down  to  the  Cabo  de  G-ata  j  hence 
it  is  very  difficult  to  beat  out  in  a 
N.W.  wind.  Some  have  supposed  the 
existence  of  an  under  current  of  denser 
water,  which  sets  outwards  and  relieves 
the  Mediterranean  from  this  accession 
of  water,  in  addition  to  aU  the  rivers 
from  the  Ebro  to  the  Nile  in  a  coast 
circuit  of  4500  L.  Dr.  Halley,  however, 
has  calculated  that  the  quantity  evapo- 
rated by  the  sun,  and  Hcked  up  by 
hot  drying  winds,  is  greater  than  the 
supply,  and  certainly  the  Mediterranean 
has  receded  on  the  E.  coast  of  the 
Peninsula.  The  absorption  on  a  surface 
of  1,149,287  square  statute  miles,  by 
Halley's  rule,  would  amount  to  7966 
million  tons  a  day  j  yet,  on  the  whole, 
the  level  of  the  Mediterranean  remains 
unchanged,  for  Nature's  exquisite  sys- 
tem of  compensation  knows  no  waste. 

Between  Za  Peita  del  Ciervo  and 
Tarifa  lies  a  plain  often  steeped  in 
blood,  and  now  watered  by  the  brackish 
Salado.  Here  Walia,  in  417,  defeated 
the  Yandali  Silingi  and  drove  them  into 
Africa ;  here  the  chivalrous  Alonso  XI. 
(Oct.  28,  1340)  overthrew  the  miited 
forces  of  Yusuf  I.,  Abu-1-hajaj,  King  of 
Granada,  and  of  Abu-1-hassan,  King  of 
Fez,  who  made  a  desperate  and  last 
attempt  to  reinvade  and  reconquer 
Spain.  This  victory  paved  the  way  for 
the  final  triumph  of  the  Cross,  as  the 


Moors  never  recovered  the  blow.  The 
accounts  of  an  eye-witness  are  worthy 
of  Froissart  (see  Chron.  de  Alonso  XI„ 
ch.  248,  254).  Cannon  made  at  Da- 
mascus were  used  here,  for  the  first 
time  in  Europe,  as  is  said  by  Conde, 
iii.  133.  According  to  Mariana  (xvi.  7) 
25,000  Spanish  infantry  and  14,000 
horse  now  defeated  400,000  Moors  and 
70,000  cavalry.  The  Christians  only 
lost  20  men,  the  infidels  200,000.  Such 
bulletins  are  to  be  ranked  with  those 
of  Livy  or  Buonaparte's  "military 
romances.'*  These  multitudes  could 
never  have  been  packed  away  in  such  a 
limited  space,  much  less  fed.  To  count 
is  a  modem  practice — the  ancient  and 
"  bulletin  "  mode  was  to  guess  num- 
bers, and  to  augment  or  diminish  as 
suited  best. 

Taeifa,  Pop.  9,000,  the  most  Moor- 
ish town  of  Andalucia — that  Berheria 
Cristiana — was  the  ancient  Punic  city 
called  Josa,  which  Bochart  (Can.i.  477) 
translates  the  "  Passage ; "  an  appro- 
priate name  for  this,  the  narrowest 
point  of  the  straits :  the  Romans  re- 
tained this  signification  in  their  Julia 
Traducta:  the  Moors  called  it  after 
Tarif  Ibn  Malik,  a  Berber  chief,  the  first 
to  land  in  Spain,  and  quite  a  distinctper- 
son  from  Taric.  Tarifa  bears  for  arms 
its  castle  on  waves,  with  a  key  at  the 
window ;  and  the  motto,  "  Sedfuertea 
en  la  guerraj"*  be  gallant  in  fight.  Like 
Calais,  it  was  once  a  frontier  key  of 
great  importance.  Sancho  el  Bravo 
took  it  in  1292,  when  Alonso  Perez 
de  Guzman,  as  aU  others  dechned, 
offered  to  hold  this  post  of  danger  for  a 
year.  The  Moors  beleaguered  it,  aided 
by  the  Infante  Juan,  a  traitor  brother 
of  Sancho's,  to  whom  Alonso's  eldest 
son,  aged  9,  had  been  entrusted  pre- 
viously as  a  page.  Juan  now  brought 
the  boy  under  the  walls,  and  threatened 
to  kill  hinn  if  his  fiither  would  not 
surrender  the  place.  Alonso  drew  his 
dagger  and  threw  it  down,  exclaiming, 
"  I  prefer  honour  without  a  son,  to  a 
son  with  dishonour."  He  retired,  and 
the  Prince  caused  the  child  to  be  put  to 
death.  A  cry  of  horror  ran  through  the 
Spanish  battlements:   Alonso  rush^^^' 


150 


ROUTE  2. — ^TARIFA — ^LAS  TARIFENAS. 


Sect.  II. 


forth,  beheld  his  son's  body,  and  re- 
turning to  his  childless  mother,  calmly 
observed,  "  I  feared  that  the  infidel  had 
gained  the  city."  Sancho  the  King 
likened  him  to  Abraham,  from  this 
parental  sacrifice,  and  honoured  him 
with  the  "  canting  "  name  "  ElBueito,^ 
The  Q-ood  (^Ghuzman,  Ghitman,  Good- 
man). He  became  the  fomider  of  the 
princely  Dukes  of  Medina  Sidonift,  now 
merged  by  marriage  in  the  Villafrancas. 
On  this  spot  the  recording  ballads  in 
Duran,  v.  203,  will  best  be  read. 

Tari/a,  nearly  quadrangular,  contains 
some  12,000  inhab. ;   the  narrow  and 
tortuous  streets  are  enclosed  by  Moorish 
walls.    The  Alameda  runs  under  the 
S.  range  between  the  town  and  the  sea : 
the  Alcazar,  a  genuine  Moorish  castle, 
lies  to  the  E.,  just  within  the  walls, 
and  is  now  the  abode  of  galley  slaves. 
The  window  from    whence    Guzman 
threw  the  dagger  has  been  bricked  up, 
but  may  be  known  by  its  border  of 
azulejos;  the  site  of  the  child's  murder 
is  marked  by  a  more  modem  tower — 
called  La  Torre   de   Guzman.      The 
**  Lions "  of  Tarifa  are  the  women,  or 
las  TarifenaSy  who  are  proverbial  for 
gracia  y  meneo.     They  continue  to 
wear  the  mantilla  as  the  Arabs  do  the 
boorko,  and  after  the  present  Egyptian 
fashion  of  the  tob  and  Hhabarah,  in 
which  only  one  eye  is  discovered  ;  that 
however  is  generally  a  piercer,  and  as  it 
peeps  out  from  the  sable  veil  like  a  star, 
beauty  is  concentrated  into  one  focus 
of  light  and  meaning.    These  tapadaSy 
being  all  dressed  alike  walk  about  as 
at  a  masquerade,  most  effectually  con- 
cealed, insomuch  that  husbands  have 
actually  been  detected  making  love  to 
their  own  vrives  by  mistake.     These 
Parthian    assassin-glances    have    fur- 
nished jokes  abundant  to  the  wits  of 
Spain.     Quevedo  compares  these  rifle- 
women  to  the  ahadefo,  which  means 
both  a  water-wagtail  and  the  Spanish- 
fly  ;  and  thus  combines  the  meneo  and 
the  stimulant.     Such,  doubtless,  was 
the  mode  of   wearing    the    mantilla 
among      the      Phoenician    coquettes. 
"  Woe,"  says  Ezekiel  (xiii.  18),  who 
-^w  Tyre  so  weU, "  Woe  to  the  women 


that  make  kerchiefs  upon  the  head  of 
every  stature  to  hunt  souls."     Next  in 
danger  to  these  tapadas  were  the  bulls, 
which  used  to  be  let  loose  in  the  streets, 
to  the  delight  of  the  people  at  the  win- 
dows, and  horror  of  those  who  met  the 
uncivil  quadruped  in  the  narrow  lanes. 
The  crumbling  walls  of  Tarifa  might 
be  battered  with  its  oranges,  which  al- 
though the  smallest,  are  beyond  com- 
parison the  sweetest  in  Spain,  but  de^ 
fended  by  brave  men,  they  have  defied 
the  ball  and  bomb.     Soult,  taught  by 
Barrosa  the  importance  of  this  landing- 
place,  was  anxious  to  take  it,  and  had 
he  done  so,  must  soon  have  been  master 
of  all  Andalucia,  Gibraltar  excepted. 
Gen.  Campbell,  in  defiance  of  higher 
authorities,  most  wisely  determined  to 
garrison  it,  and  sent  1000  men  of  the 
47th  and  87th,  undei  Col.Skerrett :  600 
Spaniards  under  Copons  were  added. 
Skerrett,  brave  but  always  unfortunate, 
despaired ;  but  Charles  Felix  Smith  of 
the  Engineers  was  skilful,  and  Col., 
now  Lord  Gough,  a  resolute  soldier. 
Victor  and  Laval,  Dec.  20,  1811,  in- 
vested the  place  with   10,000  men; 
between  the  27th  and  30th  a  practi- 
cable breach  was  made  near  the  Retiro 
gate;  then  the  Spaniards  under  Copons, 
who  were  ordered  to  be  there  to  defend 
it,  were  not  there  —they,  however,  sur- 
vived to  claim  all  the  glory  (Madoz, 
xiv.  609  ;  Nap.  xii.  6)  ;  but  Gough  in 
a  good  hour  came  up  with  his  87th, 
the  "Eagle-catchers,"   and,  with  500 
men,  beat  back  1800  picked  Frenchmen 
in  a  manner  "  surpassing  all  praise," 
and  has  lived  to  conquer  China  and 
Gwalior.    Yictor,  Fictus  as  usual,  re- 
treated silently  in  the  night,  leaving 
behind  all  his  artiQery  and  stores.  This 
great  glory  and  that  astounding  failure 
were  such  as  even  the  Duke  had  not 
ventured  to  calculate  on :  he  had  dis- 
approved of  the  defence,  because,  al- 
though "  we  have  a  right  to  expect  that 
our  officers  and  troops  wiLL  perform 
their  duty  on  every  occasion,  we  had  no 
right  to  expect  that  comparatively  a 
small  number  would  be  able  to  hold 
Tarifa,  commanded  as  it  is  at  short 
distances,  and  enfiladed  in  every  direc* 


Anduliicia, 


ROUTE  2. — ^TARIFA — THE  SIEGE. 


151 


tion,  and  unproyided  with  artillery, 
and  the  walls  scarcely  cannon-proof. 
The  enfemy,  howeyer,  retired  with  dis- 
grace, infinitely  to  the  honour  of  the 
brave  troops  who  defended  Tarifa" 
(Disp.,  Feb.  1, 1812).  The  vicinity  of 
Trafalgar,  and  the  recollection  of  Nel- 
son's blue  jackets,  urged  every  red  coat 
to  do  that  day  more  than  his  duty. 
Now-a-days  the  Tarifeuos  claim  all  the 
glory,  nor  do  the  Paez  MeUados  and 
Co.  even  mention  the  English  :  so 
Skerrett  was  praised  by  Lord  Liverpool, 
and  Campbell  reprimanded  ;  sic  vos 
non  vobis !  The  English  not  only  de- 
fended but  repaired  the  breach.  Their 
masonry  is  good,  and  their  inscription, 
if  not  classical,  at  least  teUs  the  truth : 
'*  Hanc  partem  muri  a  Q-allis  obsiden- 
tibus  dirutam,  Britanni  defensores  con- 
struxerunt,  1812."  In  1823,  when  no 
87th  was  left  to  assist  these  heroic 
Tarifeuos,  the  French,  under  the  puny 
Angouleme,  attacked  and  took  the  place 
instantly  :  the  inference  is  conclusive. 

The  real  strength  of  Tarifa  consists 
in  the  rocky  island  which  projects  into 
the  sea,  on  which  a  fortress  has  long 
been  building.  There  is  a  good  light- 
house, 135  ft.  high,  visible  for  10  L., 
and  a  small  sheltered  bay.  This  castle 
commands  the  straits  under  some  cir- 
cumstances, when  ships  are  obliged  to 
pass  within  the  range  of  the  batteries, 
and  if  they  do  not  hoist  colours  are  at 
once  fired  into,  especially  those  coming 
from  Gibraltar.  They  fire  even  into 
our  men  of  war :  thus,  in  Nov.  1830, 
the  "Windsor  Castle,"  a  74,  taking 
home  the  43rd,  was  hulled  without  I 
any  previous  notice.  The  "Windsor 
Castle,"  like  a  lion  yelpt  at  by  a  cur, 
did  not  condescend  to  sweep  the  Tarifa 
castle  from  the  face  of  the  earth,  yet 
such  is  the  only  means  of  obtainmg 
redress :  none  is  ever  given  at  Madrid. 
England  is  nowhere  treated  more  con- 
tumeliously  than  by  Spain  and  Por- 
tugal, the  two  weakest  and  most  un- 
grateM  governments  in  Europe,  and 
saved  by  her  alone  from  being  mere 
French  provinces.  The  Duke,  even 
while  in  the  act  of  dehvering  them,  was 
entirely  without  any  influence  (GK*  Sept. 


5,  1813),  and  not  "  even  treated  as  a 
gentleman."  "There  are  limits,  how- 
ever," as  even  he  said,  "  to  forbearance." 
Tarifa,  indeed,  is  destined  by  the  Spa- 
niards to  counterbalance  the  loss  of  the 
Mock.  This  fortress  is  being  built  out 
of  a  tax  levied  on  persons  and  things 
passing  from  Spain  into  Gibraltar : 
thus  the  English  are  made  to  pay  for 
their  own  annoyance.  Tarifa,  in  war 
time,  swarmed  with  gun-boats  and 
privateers.  "They,"  says  Southey, 
"  inflicted  greater  loss  on  the  trade  of 
Great  Britain  than  all  the  fleets  of  the 
enemy,  by  cutting  off'  ships  becalmed 
in  these  capricious  waters."  A  frigate 
steamer  at  Gibraltar  will  soon  abate 
that  nuisance.  Tliose  who  wish  to 
examine  Guzman  Castle,  or  to  draw  it, 
may  as  well  obtain  the  governor's  per- 
mission, since  the  vicinity  of  Gibraltar, 
which  has  been  made  the  hot-bed  of 
revolutionists  of  all  kinds,  from  Torri- 
jos  downwards,  has  rendered  every 
Spanish  garrison  near  it  almost  as  sen* 
sitive  as  the  Phoenicians,  who  wel- 
comed every  stranger  who  pried  about 
the  straits  by  throwing  him  into  the  sea. 
The  Spaniards  in  office  are  apt  to  have 
a  delirium  tremens  when  they  see  the^ 
man  of  the  pencil  and  note-book :  they 
instantly  suspect  that  he  is  making  a 
plan  to  take  the  castle. 

The  ride  to  Algeciras  over  the  moun- 
tain is  glorious ;  the  views  are  splendid* 
The  wild  forest,  through  which  the 
Guadahnacil  boils  and  leaps,  is  worthy 
of  Salvator  Bosa.  Gibraltar  and  its 
beautiful  bay  are  seen  through  the 
leafy  vistas,  and  the  bleeding  branches 
of  the  stripped  cork-trees,  fnnged  with 
a  most  ddicate  fern :  the  grand  Bock 
crouches  6  guisa  de  Leon  cuando  se 
posa.  How  imposing  this  mountain 
mass  ere  the  sun  has  risen  from  behind! 
"Poussin,"  say  the  French,  "could 
not  paint  it;  Chateaubriand  could 
not  describe  it ;"  or  M.  JoinviUe  take 
it.  This  is  indeed  the  sentinel  and  mas- 
ter of  the  Mediterranean,  the  "  Great 
Sea"  of  the  Bible,  the  bond  of  nations, 
the  central  cradle  of  civilisation ;  and 
different  indeed  would  have  been  the 
world's  condition,had  this  expauseber 


152 


ROUTE  2. — ALGECIRAS. 


Sect.  II. 


a  desert  sand ;  and  happy  the  eye  and  | 
the  moment  when  any  catch  their  first  i 
sight  of  this  most  classic  sea,  to  behold 
whose  shores  was  truly,  as  Dr.  John- 
son said,  the  grand  end  of  travelling. 
These  are  the  waters  on  which  com-  ' 
merce  first  wafted  with  white-winged  ' 
sails  all  the  art  and  science  that  raises 
us  aboTC  the  savage.    How  grand  the 
page  of  history  that  records  the  mighty 
deeds  they  have  witnessed !  how  beau- 
tiful in  picture  and  poetry  this  blue 
and  sunlit  sea !     The  general  colour  is 
the  deepest  ultramarine,  with  a  singular 
phosphorescent    luminosity   produced 
by  the  myriads  of  infusoria :  a  green 
tint  indicates  soundings,   and  a  deep 
indigo  blue,  profound  depth. 

Algedras  Hes  in  a  pleasant  nook. 
Inns :  Fonda  Francesa  near  the  beach. 
Fonda  de  Fspaua.  This,  the  Portus 
Alhus  of  the  Romans,  was  the  green 
island  of  the  Moors,  Jeziratu-1-Kha- 
dra;  an  epithet  still  preserved  in  the 
name,  of  the  island  opposite.  La  Isla 
Verde,  also  called  de  las  Palomas. 
The  King  of  Spain  is  also  King  of 
Algeciras,  a  remnant  of  its  former  im- 
portance, it  being  the  Moors'  key  of 
Spain.  It  was  taken  by  the  gallant 
AJonso  XI.,  March  24, 1344,  after  a 
siege  of  20  months,  at  which  foreign 
crusaders  from  all  Christendom  at- 
tended, who  no  doubt  did  the  best 
of  the  work,  for  the  benefit  and  glory 
of  Nosotros.  It  was  the  siege  of  the 
age,  and  40  years  afterwards  Chaucer, 
describing  a  true  knight,  mentions  his 
having  been  at "  Algecir  " — a  Waterloo, 
a  Trafalgar  man.  Our  chivalrous  Ed- 
ward III.  contemplated  coming  in  per- 
son to  assist  AlonsoXI.,a  monarch  after 
his  own  heart.  The  chronica  de  Alonso 
XI.  gives  the  Froissart  details,  the  gal- 
lant behaviour  of  the  English  under 
the  Earls  of  Derby  and  Salisbury 
(Chr.  301),  the  selfish  misconduct  of 
the  French  under  Q-aston  de  Foix,  who 
kept  aloof  at  the  critical  moment  (Chr. 
311).  The  want  of  every  thing  in  the 
Castilian  camp  was  ternfic:  cosas  de 
FspaTia,  Alonso  destroyed  the  Moor- 
ih  town  and  fortifications. 

''odem  rectangular  common-place 


Algeciras,  pop.  11,000,  has  risen  like  a 
rhoenii,  having  been  rebuilt  in  1760 
by  Charles  III.,  to  be  a  hornets'  nest 
against  Gibraltar,  and  such  it  is, 
swarming  with  privateers  in  war-time, 
and  with  guarda  costas  or  preventive 
service  cutters  in  peace.  What  a  con- 
trast from  old  Moorish  Tarifa;  in  a 
morning's  ride  we  jump  from  one 
age  and  people  to  another.  The  hand- 
some plaza  has  a  fountain  erected  by 
Castafios,  who  was  governor  here  in 
1808,  when  the  war  of  independence 
broke  out.  He,  as  usual,  was  without 
arms  or  money,  and  utterly  unable  to 
move,  imtil  the  English  merchants  of 
Gibraltar  advanced  the  means  ;  he  then 
marched  to  Bailen,  where  the  incapa- 
city of  Dupont  thrust  greatness  on  him. 
The  artist  should  sketch  Gibraltar 
from  near  the  aqueduct  and  Molino 
de  San  Bernardino.  The  walk  to  the 
water-falls  is  picturesque,  the  cork- 
trees grand,  the  picknicks  pleasant. 

Between  Algeciras  and  Tarifa,  June 
9,  1801,  the  gallant  Saumarez  attacked 
the  combined  French  and  Spanish 
fleets  under  Linois ;  the  enemy  con"- 
sisted  of  10  sail,  the  English  of  6.  The 
"  Superb,"  a  74,  commanded  by  Capt. 
Kichard  Keats,  out-sailed  the  squadron, 
and  alone  engaged  the  foe,  taking  the 
"  St.  Antoine,"  a  French  74,  and  burn- 
ing the  "  Real  Carlos  "  and  "  San  Her- 
menigildo,"  two  Spanish  three-deckers 
of  112  guns  each.  Keats  had  sHpped 
between  them,  and  then  out  again, 
leaving  them  in  mistake  from  the  dark- 
ness to  fire  at  and  destroy  each  other. 
Algeciras  is  the  naval  and  military 
position  from  whence  Gibraltar  is 
watched  and  worried,  for  the  foreigtier's 
possession  of  that  angulus  rankles 
deeply,  as  well  it  may.  In  the  tena- 
cious memory  of  Spain,  which  never 
forgives  or  forgets,  it  is  hardly  yet 
a  fait  accompli.  During  sunmier,  the 
cool  stone-houses  of  Algeciras  are  in- 
finitely better  suited  to  the  climate, 
than  the  Btuffj  dwellings  on  the  arid 
rock;  and  here  the  foreign  steamers 
touch,  which  ply  backwards  and  for- 
wards between  Cadiz  and  Marseilles. 

The  distance  to  Gibraltar  is  about 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  3 — CARTEIA. 


153 


5  m.  across  by  sea,  and  10  round  by 
land.  Tlie  coast-road  is  intersected  by 
the  rivers  G-uadaranque  and  Palmones : 
on  crossing  the  former,  on  the  eminence 
JEl  HocadillOf  now  a  farm,  the  com 
grows  where  once  Carteia  flourished. 
This  was  the  Phoenician  Melcarth  (Me- 
lech  Kartha),  King's- town,  the  city  Of 
Hercules,  the  type,  symbol,  and  per- 
sonification of  the  navigation,  coloniza- 
tion, and  civilization  of  Tyre :  the 
Phoenicians,  be  it  remembered,  called 
it  Tartessus,  Heracleon.  Humboldt, 
however,  reads  in  the  Car  the  Iberian 
prefix  of  height.  This  was  afterwards 
among  the  earUest  and  one  of  the  few 
Greek  settlements  tolerated  in  Spain 
by  their  deadly  rivals  of  Tyre. 

Carteia  was  sacked  by  Scipio  Africa- 
nus,  and  given  (171  b.c.)  to  the  illegiti- 
mate children  of  Boman  soldiers  by 
Spanish  mothers  (Livy  xliii.  3).  Here 
the  younger  Pompey  fled,  wounded, 
after  his  defeat  of  Munda,  whereupon 
the  Carteians,  his  former  partisans,  at 
once  proposed  giving  him  up  to  Caesar: 
they  have  had  their  reward ;  and  the 
fisherman  spreads  his  nets,  the  punish- 
ment of  Tyre,  on  her  false,  fleeting, 
and  perjured  daughter.  The  remains 
of  an  amphitheatre,  and  the  circuit  of 
walls  about  2  miles,  may  yet  be  traced. 
Tho  Moors  and  Spaniards  have  alike 
destroyed  the  ruins,  working  them  up 
as  a  quarry  in  building  Algeciras  and 
San  Boque.  The  coins  found  here  are 
very  beautiful  and  numerous  (see  Flo- 
rez,  Med.  i.  293).  Mr.  Kent,  of  tJie  port- 
office  at  Gibrsdtar,  formed  a  Carteian 
museum,  consisting  of  medals,  pottery, 
glass,  &c.  Consult,  for  ancient  au- 
thorities, Ukert  (i.  2.  346), 'and  'A 
Discourse  on  Cmrteia^  John  Conduit, 
4to.,  London,  1719;  and  the  excellent 
*  Journey  from  Oibr  altar  to  Malaga^ 
Francis  Carter,  2  vols.,  London,  1777. 

From  ^l  JRocadillo  to  Gibraltar  is 
about  4)  m.  through  the  Spanish  hues. 
The  whole  ride  from  Tarifa  took  us 
about  10  h. 

Midway  towards  Abyla  the  great 
sea-fight  took  place  between  LoeHus 
and  Adherbol  (Livy  xxiii.  30),  and 
again  betiYeen  l^idius  and  Varus,  and 
that  fearful  subsequent  storm  which, 


as  after  Trafalgar,  buffeted  victors  and 
vanquished  (Florus,  iv.  2). 

RoTJTB  3. — Cadiz  to  Seyille  by 
Steam. 

While  waiting  for  the  completion  of 
a  railway  there  are  several  ways  of 
getting  to  Seville;  first,  by  land,  in 
the  diligence,  through  Xerez;  secondly, 
by  water,  by  steamers  up  the  Ghiadal- 
quivir ;  and  thirdly,  by  a  combination 
of  land  and  water. 

Those  who  prefer  the  land,  may  take 
the  diligence  to  San  Lucar,  which  it 
reaches,  having  passed  through  the  Isla 
and  made  the  circuif  of  the  bay  there, 
a  route  interesting  only  to  crab-fanciers 
and  salt-refiners.  The  country,  vege- 
tation, and  climate  are  tropical.  Be- 
tween the  Puerto  and  San  Lucar  the 
traveller  wiU  remember  the  Oriental 
ploughings  of  Elijah,  when  he  sees  20 
and  more  yoke  of  oxen  labouring  in 
the  same  field  (1  Kings,  xix.  19). 

San  JJucar  de  Barrameda^  Luciferi 
Fanum,  rises  amid  a  treeless,  sandy, 
undulating  country,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Guadalquivir.    White  and  gUtter- 
ing,  it  is  an  ill-paved,  dull,  decaying 
place ;  pop.  16,000.      Lm,  JFonda  del 
Comercio ;  the  best  cafe  is  JEl  Oro^  on 
the  Plazuela.    This  town,  taken  from 
the  Moors  in  1264,  was  granted  by 
Sancho  el  Bravo,  to  Guzman  el  Bueno. 
The  importance  of  the  transatlantiq^ 
trade  induced  Philip  IV.,  in  1645,  to 
resume  the   city,    and   make    it  the 
residence    of   the    captain-general    of 
Andalucia.     Visit  the  ancient  English 
Hospital  of  St.   George,  founded  in 
1517  by    Henry  VIII.    for    English 
sailors.     Godoy,  in  1799,  sold  the  pro- 
perty, and  promised  to  pay  interest  on 
the  proceeds.      In  1854  the  unpaid 
capital  and  arrears  due  from  the  go- 
vernment amounted  to  2400^.    From 
San  Lucar  Fernando  Magalheans  em- 
barked, Aug.  10, 1519,  on  the  first  cir- 
cumnavigation of  the  world :  the  Vic- 
toria was  the  only  ship  which  returned 
Sept.  8,  1522,  Fernando  having  been 
kUled,  like  Capt.  Cook,  by  some  savages 
in  the  Philippine  Islands.    San  Lucp- 
exists  by  its  wine-trade,  and  is  t' 


■n-     O 


154 


ROUTE  3. — SAN  LUCAR — MANZANILLA  WINE.  Sect.  IT, 


1 


mart  of  the  inferior  and  adulterated 
vintages  which  are  foisted  off  in  Eng- 
land as  sherries.  Nota  bene,  here,  at 
least,  drink  manzanilla,  however  much 
it  may  be  eschewed  in  England,  which 
being,  fortunately,  not  a  wine  growing 
coimtry,  imports  the  very  best  of  all 
others,  leaving  the  inferior  for  native 
consumption.  The  name  describes  its 
peculiar  light  camomile  flavour,  which 
is  the  true  derivation,  for  it  has  no- 
thing to  do  with  manzanay  an  apple, 
and  still  less  with  the  town  Manzanilla 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  It  is 
of  a  delicate  pale  straw  colour,  and  is 
extremely  wholesome;  it  strengthens 
the  stomach,  without  heating  or  ine- 
briating; hence  the  Andalucians  are 
passionately  fond  of  it.  Excellent 
manzanilla  is  to  be  procured  in  Lon- 
don, of  G-orman,  16,  Mark  Lane. 
Drink  it,  ye  dyspeptics ! 

The  climate  of  San  Lucar  is  ex- 
tremely hot :  here  was  established,  in 
1806,  the  botanical  Garden  de  Aclima- 
tacion,  in  order  to  acclimatize  South 
American  and  African  animals  and 
plants :  it  was  arranged  by  Boutelou 
and  Eojas  Clemente,  two  able  gar- 
deners and  naturalists,  and  was  in  high 
order  in  1808,  when  the  downfall  of 
Godoy,  the  founder,  entailed  its  de- 
struction. The  populace  rushed  in, 
killed  the  animals,  tore  up  the  plants, 
and  pulled  down  the  buildings,  because 
the  work  of  a  hated  individual.  But 
at  all  times  Spanish,  like  Oriental  ven- 
geance is  blind  even  to  its  own  interests, 
and  retaliates  against  persons  and  their 
works  even  when  of  pubhc  utility. 

San  Lucar  is  no  longer  the  point  of 
embarkation,  which  is  now  about  a  mile 
up  the  river  at  Bonanza,  so  called  from 
a  hermitage,  Luciferi  fanum,  erected 
by  the  South  American  Company  at 
Seville  to  Na.  8a.  de  Bonanza,  or  our 
Lady  of  fine  weather,  as  the  ancients 
did  to  Yenus.  Here  is  established  an 
aduana,  where  luggage  is  examined. 
The  district  between  Bonanza  and  San 
Lucar  is  called  Algaida,  an  Arabic 
word  meaning  a  deserted  waste,  and 
such  truly  it  is :  the  sandy  hiQocks  are 
■"^^'^thed  with  aromatic  brushwood, 
ry  pines,  and  wild  grapes.    The 


view  over  the  flat  marisma,  with  its 
agues  and  fevers,  swamps  and  shifting 
sands,  arenas  voladeras,  is  truly  desert- 
like, and  a  fit  home  of  birds  and  beasts 
of  prey,  hawks,  stoats,  robbers,  and 
custom-house  officers.  M.  Fenelon,  in 
his  *T^emaque'  (Ub.  viii.),  describes 
these  localities  as  the  Elysian  Fields, 
and  peoples  the  happy  valleys  with 
patriarchs  and  respectable  burgesses. 

For  the  journey  by  water,  the  de- 
partures and  particulars  of  the  steamers 
to  Seville,  are  advertised  in  the  Cadiz 
papers  and  placarded  in  all  the  posadas. 
Aner  crossing  La  JBahia  the  Guadal- 
quivir is  entered,  near  Cipiona  Point. 
Here  was  the  great  Phoenician  light- 
house called  Cap  JEon,  the  "  Rock  of 
the  Sun."  This  the  vain-glorious 
Greeks,  who  never  condescended  to 
learn  the  language  of  other  people, 
"  barbarians,"  converted  into  the  Tower 
of  Cepio,  Tov  KetTiMvts  ftv^yos,  the  **  Cae- 
pionis  Turris"  of  the  Romans.  Those 
who  wish  to  avoid  the  rounding  this 
point  by  sea  may  cross  over  to  the 
Puerto,  and  take  a  calesa  to  San  Lucar, 
and  there  rejoin  the  steamer.  Seville  is 
distant  about  80  m.  The  voyage  is  per- 
formed in  7  to  8  hours,  and  in  less 
when  returning  down  stream.  Fare, 
first  cabin,  3  dollars ;  there  is  a  good 
restaurant  on  board. 

LaPuebla Ui  L. 

Coria 2 

Gelbes i 

San  Juan  de  Alfarache      .     .        i 

The  smoke  of  the  steamer  and  actual 
inspection  of  the  localities  discharge 
the  poetry  and  illusion  of  the  far-famed 
and  much  overrated  Guadalquivir  of 
classical  and  modem  romance.  "  Thou 
Bsetis,"  sing  the  native  poets, "  crowned 
with  flowers  and  olives,  and  girdled  by 
beauteous  nymphs,  waftest  thy  Hquid 
crystal  to  the  west,  in  a  placid  amorous 
current."  Spaniards  seldom  spare  fine 
words,  when  speaking  of  themselves  or 
their  country ;  and  this  pellucid  river, 
in  sober  reality  and  prose,  is  here  dull 
and  dirty  as  the  Thames  at  Sheemess, 
and  its  "  Elysian  Fields"  are  as  unpic- 
turesque  as  those  at  Paris  or  our  "  Isle 
of  Dogs."  The  turbid  stream  slowly 
eats  its  way  through  an  alluvial  level^ 


Andaluda. 


ROUTE  3. — THE  GUADALQUIVIR. 


155 


given  up  to  herds  of  cattle  and  aquatic 
fowls :  notliing  can  be  more  dreary : 
no  white  sails  enliven  the  silent  waters, 
no  villages  cheer  the  desert  steppes  j 
here  and  there  a  choza  or  hut  offers  a 
poor  refuge  from  the  red  hot  sun.  In 
this  riverain  tract,  called  La  MarUma, 
swamps,  ague,  and  fever  are  perpetual. 
In  these  plains,  £Eivourable  to  animal 
and  vegetable  life,  fatal  to  man,  the 
miserable  peasantry,  like  those  on  the 
Pontine  marshes,  look  yellow  skeletons 
when  compared  to  their  fat  kine.  Here 
in  the  glare  of  summer  a  mirage  mocks 
the  thirsty  sportsman.  This  Sarah  or 
vapour  of  the  desert  with  its  optical 
deceptions  of  atmospheric  refractions 
is  indeed  the  trick  of  fairies,  a  Fata 
Morgana^  and  well  may  the  Arabs  term 
it  Moyet-Eblis^  the  Devil's  water.  On 
the  r.  hand,  in  the  distance,  rise  the 
mountains  of  Bonda.  The  G-uadal- 
quivir,  the  "  great  river,"  the  Wdda-l- 
Kebir  or  Wada-l-adhem  of  the  Moors, 
traverses  Andalucia  from  E.  to  W.  The 
ZincaU,  or  Spanish  gipsies,  also  call  it 
Len  JBaro,  the  "  great  river."  The  Ibe- 
rian name  was  Certis  (Livy  xxviii.  16), 
which  the  Komans  changed  into  Bsetis, 
a  word,  according  to  Santa  Teresa,  who 
understood  imknown  tongues,  derived 
from  Bseth,  "  blessedness ;"  but  the 
G^eneralissima  of  Spain  had  revelations 
which  were  denied  to  ordinary  mortals, 
to  geographers  like  Bennell,  or  to  phi- 
lologists, hke  Humboldt  and  Bocluurt, 
who  suspects  (Can.  i.  34^  the  etymology 
to  be  the  Punic  Lebitsin,  the  lakes  or 
swamps  of  the  Bsetis  termination, 
whence  the  Idbt/sfitio  lacu  of  Pest. 
Avienus  (Or.  Mar.  289).  The  river 
rises  in  La  Mancha,  about  10  L.  "N.  of 
Almaraz,  flows  down,  and  at  Ecija 
receives  the  Gtenil  and  the  waters  of 
the  basin  of  Granada :  other  numerous 
affluents  come  down  from  the  mountain 
valleys  on  each  side.  Under  the  An- 
cients and  Moors,  navigable .  to  Cor- 
dova, it  formed  a  portavena  to  that 
district,  which  overflows  with  oil,  com, 
and  wine.  Under  the  Spanish  mis- 
government  these  advantages  were  lost, 
and  now  small  craft  alone  reach  Seville, 
and  with  difficulty.    They  have  been 


talking  for  the  last  300  years  of  im- 
proving the  navigation,  see  Las  obras 
del  Maestro  JPerez  Feman  de  Oliva, 
4to,  Cordova,  1586,  p.  131;  and  in 
1820  a  new  company — conservators  of 
the  river — was  formed  for  the  purpose, 
and  a  tax  laid  on  the  tonnage  of  ship- 
ping, which  has  been  duly  levied,  al- 
though not  much  more  has  been  done 
beyond  jobbing :  meantime  the  bed  is 
filling,  the  banks  falling  in,  with  no  side 
canal,  no  railroad,  to  supply  the  want  and 
shorten  the  line  of  this  tortuous  river. 

1  The  river  below  Seville  has  branched 
off,  forming  two  unequal  islands.  La 

;  Isla  Mayor  and  Menor.  The  former 
the  Xaptal  of  the  Moors,  and  Captel  of 
old  Spanish  books,  has  been  cultivated 
with  cotton  by  the  company,  who  also 
cut  a  canal  through  the  Isla  Menor, 
called  La  Cortadura,  by  which  3  L.  of 
winding  river  are  saved.  Foreign  ves- 
sels are  generally  moored  here,  and  their 
cargoes  are  conveyed  up  and  down  in 
barges,  whereby  smugglmg  is  vastly  fa- 
ciUtated.  At  Coria,  lamous  under  the 
Bomaus  for  bricks  and  pottery,  are 
still  made  the  enormous  earthenware 
jars  in  which  oil  and  olives  are  kept : 
these  tinajas  are  the  precise  amphorce 
of  the  ancients,  and  remind  one  of 
Morgiana  and  the  Forty  Thieves.  The 
river  next  winds  under  the  Moorish 
Hisnu-1-faraj,  or  the  "Castle  of  the 
Cleft,"  or  of  the  prospect  "a!  Faradge," 
now  called  San  Juan  de  Alfarache ; 
and  then  turns  to  the  r.,  and  skirting 
the  pleasant  public  walk  stops  near  the 
Torre  del  Oro,  gilded  with  the  setting 
sun,  and  darkened  by  Aduaneros,  who 
worry  passengers  and  portmanteaus. 


BouTE  4. — Cadiz  to  Sbville  by 
Land. 

SanFemando    .     .     .     .  2i 

Puerto  Real 2    ..      4* 

Puerto  de  Sa.  Maria    .     .  2    ..      6i 

Xerez 2     ..      8i 

Va.  del  Cuervo .     .     .     .  3i  . .  12 

Fa.  de  la  Vizcaina  ...  1     ..  13 

Torres  de  Alocaz   .     .    .  2i  . .  15^ 

Utrera 3*  ..  19 

AlcaUi  de Guadaira     .     .  2    ..  21 

SeviUa 2    ..  23 

This  is  a  portion  of  the  high  road  from 


156 


ROUTE  4. — ^XEREZ  DE  LA  FRONTERA. 


Sect.  II. 


Cadiz  to  Madrid ;  the  whole  distance 
is  108J  L.  There  is  some  talk  of  a 
railroad,  to  be  made  and  paid  for  by 
Englishmen,  hMifestina  lente  is  a  Spa- 
nish axiom,  where  people  are  slow  to 
begin  and  nerer  finish.  The  journey  is 
uninteresting,  and  sometimes  danger- 
ous :  leaving Xerez  the  lonely  road  across 
the  plains  skirts  the  spin's  of  the  Bonda 
mountains,  sometimes  the  lair  of  mala 
petite,  Moron  being  generally  their 
head-quarters,  for  smuggling  and  the 
intricate  country  favour  these  wild 
weeds  of  the  rank  soil. 

The  best  plan  of  route  from  Cadiz 
to  Seville,  is  to  cross  over  to  the  Puerto 
by  steam  and  take  a  calesa  to  Xerez, 
paying  1  dollar ;  although  the  road  is 
indifferent  the  drive  is  pleasant,  and 
the  view  from  the  intervening  ridge, 
La  huena  vista,  is  worthy  of  its  name : 
the  glorious  panorama  of  the  bay  of 
Cadiz  is  a  perfect  belvedere.  There  is 
a  decent  posada  at  this  half-way  rest- 
ing-place. From  Xerez  drive  in  a  ca- 
lesa  to  Bonanza,  about  3  L.  of  weaii- 
some  road,  and  there  rejoin  the  steamer. 
The  best  Posada  at  Xerez  is  of  San 
Dionisio  on  the  Plaza  La  Consolacion. 
F.  Travieso — 3,  CaUe  de  la  Lenzeria. 
The  great  hospitable  wine-merchants 
seldom,  however,  permit  any  one  who 
comes  with  an  introduction  "to  take 
his  ease  in  mine  own  inn." 

Xerez  de  la  Frontera,  or  Jerez — ^for 
now  it  is  the  fashion  to  spell  all  those 
Moorish  or  German  guttural  words, 
where  an  X  or  Q-  is  prefixed  to  an  open 
vowel,  with  a  J:  e,  g.^  Jimenez  for 
Ximenez,  Jorge  for  George,  &c. — is 
called  of  the  frontier^  to  distinguish  it 
from  Jerez  de  los  Caballeros,  in  Estre- 
madura.  It  was  termed  by  the  Moors 
Sherish  Mlistin,  because  sdlotted  to  a 
tribe  of  Philistines.  The  new  settlers 
from  the  East,  preserved  alike  the  names 
of  their  old  homes,  and  their  hatred  of 
neighbours.  Jerez,  pop.  34,000,  rises 
amid  vine-clad  slopes,  studded  with 
coriijos  y  haciendas,  with  its  white- 
washed Moorish  towers,  blue-domed 
Colegiata,  and  huge  JBodegas,  or  wine- 
stores,  looking  like  pent-houses  for 
men-of-war   at  Chatham*      Supposed 


by  many  to  have  been  the  ancient 
Astaregia  Ceesariana,  some  mutilated 
sculpture  exists  in  the  Calle  de  Biz' 
cocheroa  and  Calle  de  los  Idolos,  for 
the  Xeresanos  call  the  old  graven 
images  of  the  Pagans  idols,  while  they 
bow  down  to  new  sagradas  imagenes 
in  their  own  churches.  Part  of  the 
original,  walls  and  gates  remain  in  the 
old  town ;  the  suburbs  are  more  regu- 
lar, and  here  the  wealthy  wine-mer- 
chants reside.  Xerez  was  taken  from 
the  Moors,  in  1264,  by  Alonso  el  Sabio, 
the  Learned.  The  Moorish  alcazar, 
which  is  near  the  public  walk,  is  well 
preserved,  and  offers  a  good  specimen 
of  these  turreted  and  walled  palatial 
fortresses.  It  belongs  to  the  Duque  de 
San  Lorenzo,  on  the  condition  that  he 
cedes  it  to  the  king  whenever  he  is  at 
Xerez.  The  Casa  de  Miquelmes,  "with 
its  torre  de  Homenaje,  may  also  be 
visited.  Observe  the  Berruguete  facade 
of  the  Casas  de  Cdbildo,  erected  in 
1 575.  Notice  the  £Ei9ade  of  the  churches 
of  Santiago  and  San  Miguel,  especially 
the  Gothic  details  of  the  latter.  The 
Colegiaia,  begun  in  1695,  is  vile  chur- 
rigueresque;  the  architect  did  not  by 
accident  stumble  on  one  sound  rule,  or 
deviate  into  the  commonest  sense :  but 
the  wines  of  Jerez  are  in  better  taste 
than  the  temples,  and  now-a-days  more 
go  to  the  cellar  than  to  the  church< 
The  vinous  city  has  a  few  books  and 
coins.  The  legends  and  antiquities  of 
Xerez  are  described  in  Los  Santos  de 
Xerez,  Martin  de  Roa,  4to.,  Seville, 
1671 ;  and  there  is  a  new  history  by 
Adolf  0  de  Castro.  Xerez  was  renowned 
for  its  Majos,  who  were  considered, 
however,  of  a  low  caste,  muy-cruos, 
crudos,  raw,  when  compared  to  the 
Majo  fino,  the  mug  cocio^ocido,  the 
boUed,  the  well-done  one  of  Seville — 
phrases  as  old  as  Martial.  The  Majo 
Xerezano  was  seen  in  all  his  flash 
glory  at  the  much  frequented  fairs  of 
Ma^  1  and  Aug.  15 ;  but  picturesque 
nationalities  are  giving  place  to  the 
common-place  coats  and  calicos  of  civi- 
lization. He  is  a  great  bull-fighter, 
and  a  fine  new  Plaza  has  recently  been 
built  here.    His  requiehros  are,  how- 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  4. — XEREZ — SHERRY  WINES. 


157 


ever,  over-flavoured  with  sal  Andaluqay 
and  his  jaleos  and  jokes  rather  prac- 
tical :  iurlas  de  manosy  hurlas  de 
JCerezanos.  The  quantity  of  wine  is 
supposed  to  make  these  valienfes  more 
boisterous  and  occasionally  ferocious, 
than  those  of  all  other  Aiidaluciaus : 
" for  all  this  valour"  as  Falstaff  says, 
"comes  of  sherris."  They  are  great 
sportsmen,  and  the  shooting  in  the 
Marisma,  especially  of  deer,  bustards, 
wild  fowl,  and  woodcocks,  is  first-rate. 
Parties  are  made,  who  go  for  weeks  to 
the  Coto  de  Doua  Ana  and  del  Rey, 

The  growth  of  wine  amounts  to 
some  500,000  arrohas  annually;  tiiis 
Moorish  name  and  measure  contains  a 
quarter  of  a  hundred  weight :  30  go  to 
a  bota  or  butt,  of  which  some  34,000 
are  annually  produced,  running  from 
8000  to  10,000  really  fine.  This  wine 
was  first  known  in  England  about  the 
time  of  our  Henry  VII.  It  became 
popular  under  Ehzabeth,  when  those 
who  under  Essex  sacked  Cadiz  brought 
home  the  fashion  of  good  "  sherris 
sack."  It  is  still  called  seco  here, 
which  is  the  old  English  seek,  the 
French  sec,  a  word  used  in  contradis- 
tinction to  the  sweet  malvoisies.  It  was 
ousted  by  Madeira  wine,  but  brought 
back  into  fashion  by  Lord  Holland, 
whose  travels  in  Spain  abroad,  and 
table  at  home,  gave  him  the  right  to 
dictate  in  dinnering  at  least.  Mean- 
while the  bulk  of  good  Spaniards 
scarcely  know  sherry  beyond  its  im- 
mediate vicinity.  It  is,  in  fact,  a 
foreign  wine,  and  made  and  drunk  by 
foreigners;  nor  do  Spaniards  like  its 
strength,  and  stUl  less  its  high  price. 
Thus,  even  at  Granada,  it  is  sold  as  a 
liqueur.  At  Seville,  in  the  best  houses, 
one  glass  only  is,  or  in  our  time  used 
to  be,  handed  round  at  dinner  as  the 
golpe  medico,  or  chasse,  the  »m^  '"' 
?^K6i  of  Athenseus  (1.  20).  The  first 
class,  called  "  Vino  seco,  fino,  oloroso 
y  generoso"  is  very  dear,  costing  half 
a  dollar  a  bottle  on  the  spot.  Pure 
genuine  sherry,  from  10  to  12  years 
old,  is  worth  from  50  to  80  guineas 
)er  butt,  in  the  hodega ;  and  when 
^ight,  insurance,  duty,  and  charges 


are  added,  will  stand  the  importer  from 
100  to  130  guineas  in  his'cellar.  A 
butt  win  run  from  108  to  112  gallons, 
and  the  duty  is  5#.  Qd,  per  gallon.  Such 
a  butt  will  bottle  about  62  dozen. 

The  excellence  of  sherry  wines  is 
owing  to  the  extreme  care  and  scientific 
methods  introduced  hj  foreigners,  who 
are  chiefly  French  and  Scotch.  The 
great  houses  are  Pedro  Domecq,  Pe- 
martin,  Gordon,  Garvey,  Isasi,  Bermu- 
dez,  Beigbeder.  A  Bodega,  the  Boman 
horrea,  the  wine-store  or  apotheca,  is, 
unlike  our  excavated  cellars,  always 
above  groimd.  The  interior  is  deli- 
ciously  cool  and  subdued,  as  the  heat 
and  glare  outside  are  carefully  excluded ; 
here  thousands  of  butts  are  piled  up 
during  the  rearing  and  maturing  pro- 
cesses. Sherry,  when  perfect,  is  made 
up  from  many  difierent  butts:  the 
"entire"  is  in  truth  the  result  of 
Xerez  grapes,  but  of  many  sorts  and 
varieties  of  flavour.  Thus  one  barrel 
corrects  another,  by  addition  or  sub- 
traction, until  the  proposed  standard 
aggregate  is  produced.  All  this  is 
managed  by  the  Capataz  or  head  man, 
who  is  usually  a  Montaues  from  the 
Asturian  mountains,  and  often  becomes 
the  real  master  of  his  nominal  masters, 
whom  he  cheats,  as  well  as  the  grower. 
He  passes  this  life  of  probation  in 
tasting :  he  goes  round  the  butts,  mark- 
ing each  according  to  its  character,  cor* 
recting  and  improving  eaeh  at  every 
successive  visit. 

The  callida  junctura  ought  to  unite 
fulness  of  body,  a  nutty  flavour  and 
aroma,  dryness,  absence  from  acidity, 
strength,  spirituosity,  and  durability. 
Little  brandy  is  necessary :  the  vivi- 
fying power  of  the  unstinted  sun  of 
Andalucia  imparting  sufficient  alcohol, 
which  ranges  from  20  to  23  per  cent, 
in  fine  sherries,  and  only  12  in  clarets 
and  champagnes.  Pine,  pure  old  sherry 
is  of  a  rich  brown  colour.  The  new 
raw  wines  are  paler ;  in  order  to  flatter 
the  tastes  of  some  English,  "  pale  old 
sherry "  must  be  .had,  and  the  colour 
is  chemically  discharged  at  the  expense 
of  the  dehcate  aroma.  The  amontil' 
lado  is  so  called  from  a  peculiar,  bitter- 


158 


BOUTE  4. — ^XEREZ — ^WINES — THE  CARTUJA.  Sect.  II, 


almond,  dry  flayour,  somewhat  like  the 
wines  of  MontiUa,  near  Cordova :  much 
sought  after,  it  is  dear,  and  used  in 
enriching  poorer  and  sweetish  wines. 
There  is  always  a  venerable  butt  that 
contains  some  Madre  vino,  or  rich  wine, 
by  which  young  butts  are  reared  as 
by  mother's  milk.  The  contents  are 
very  precious,  and  the  barrels  named 
after  Ferdinands,  Nelsons,  Wellingtons, 
kings  and  heroes.  The  visitor  is  just 
allowed  a  sip,  by  way  of  bonne  bouche. 
The  sweet  wines  of  the  sherry  grape 
are  deUcious.  The  best  are  the  Mos- 
cadel,  the  Pedro  Ximenez,  so  called 
from  a  G^erman  vine-grower,  and  the 
JPajarete ;  this  term  has  nothing  to  do 
with  the  pajaros,  or  birds  which  pick 
the  most  luscious  grapes,  but  simply 
is  the  name  of  the  village  where  it  was 
first  made. 

Every  traveller  will  of  course  pay 
a  visit  to  a  great  Bodega,  the  lion  of 
Xerez  and  big  as  a  cathedral,  a  true 
temple  of  Bacchus :  those  of  P.  Domecq 
or  Charles  Gordon  are  the  finest.  The 
foi*mer  gentleman  has  some  pictures, 
but  his  best  gallery  is  that  of  butts  of 
sherryj  There  the  whole  process  of 
making  sheny  wiU  be  explained.  The 
lecture  is  long,  and  is  illustrated  by 
experiments.  Every  cask  is  tasted, 
from  the  raw  young  wine  to  the  ma- 
ture golden  fluid.  Those  who  are  not 
stupified  by  drink  come  out  much 
edified.  From  the  result  of  many 
courses  of  lectures,  we  recommend  the 
student  to  hold  hard  during  the^r^^ 
samples,  for  the  best  wine  is  reserved 
for  the  last,  the  qualities  ascending  in 
a  vinous  climax.  Perhaps  the  better 
plan  would  be  to  reverse  the  order,  and 
begin  with  the  best  while  the  palate  is 
fresh  and  the  judgment  sober.  All  the 
varieties  of  grape  and^oil  are  carefully 
described  in  the  JSnsayo  sobre  las  vari- 
edades  de  la  Vid  en  Andalucia,  Simon 
Bojas  Clemente,  4to.,  Mad.,  1807 ;  in 
the  Memorias  sobre  el  Cultivo  de  la  Vid, 
Esteban  Boutelou,  4to.,  Mad.,  1807 ; 
see  also  our  notices  in  the  '  Quarterly 
Keview,'  cxxvi.  308  j  and  in  the  *  Ga- 
therings,' ch.  xiv.     The  student  will 

-»  do  well  to  drive  out  and  visit  some 


crack  vineyard,  and  inspect  the  vinous 
buildings  and  contrivances.  Many  of 
the  great  growers  have  villas  on  their 
vineyards,  such  as  JEl  Eecreo,  Valse^ 
quillo.  La  Qrayiga,  &c.;  this  latter 
belongs  to  Mr.  Domecq,  whose  vine- 
yard, Maehcurnudo,  is  the  primest,  and 
really  the  Johannisburg  ot  Jerez;  the 
Carrascal,  Barbiana  alta  y  baja,  Los 
Tercios,  Cruz  del  Husillo,  Anina,  San 
Julian,  Mochiele,  and  Carraola,  are 
also  deservedly  celebrated. 

No  one  should  fail  to  visit  the  Car- 
tuja  convent,  which  lies  about  2  m.  to 
the  E.,  although  this  once  magnificent 
pite  is  now  desecrated.  The  finest  oiE" 
the  Zurbaran  pictures  have  passed  into 
England,  having  been  6old  dog-cheap 
at  the  sales  of  Louis  Philippe  and  Mr. 
Standish,  in  1853 ;  some  lew  others, 
the  refuse,  are  in  the  Museo  at  Cadiz. 
This  Carthusian  monastery  was  founded 
in  1477  by  Alvaro  Obertos  de  Valeto; 
whose  figure  in  armour  was  engraved 
in  brass  before  the  high  altar :  one 
Andres  de  Bibera,  in  the  time  of 
Philip  II.,  added  the  Doric  Hejrrera 
portal :  the  more  modem  fa9ade  is  very 
bad.  This  Cartuja  was  once  very  rich 
in  excellent  vineyards,  and  possessed 
the  celebrated  breeding-grounds  of  An- 
dalucian  horses,  to  which  the  French 
dealt  the  first  blow.  The  decree  of 
suppression,  in  1836,  destroyed,  at  one 
fell  swoop,  both  monk  and  animal. 
The  establishments  have  been  broken 
up,  and  the  system  ruined.  The  loss 
of  the  horses  will  long  be  felt,  when 
that  of  the  friars  is  forgotten.  On  the 
Carthusian  convents  and  monks  of 
Spain,  consult  Primer  Instituto  de  la 
Sagrada  Religion  d^  la  Cartuja,  Jo- 
seph de  Valles,  4(o.,  Mad.,  1663. 

Below  the  Cartuja  rolls  the  Guada- 
lete.  A  small  hill,  called  el  real  de 
Don  Modrigo,  marks  the  head-quarters 
of  the  last  of  the  Goths :  here  the  battle 
was  terminated  which  put  an  end  to  his 
dynasty  (see  p.  148).  Lower  down  is 
el  Portal,  the  port  of  Xerez,  whence 
the  sherries  were  embarked  for  elPuerto 
before  t^e  railroad  conveyed  the  butts 
to  the  very  shipboard. 

The  Guada2e^,from  the  terminating 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  4. — ^THE  RIVER  OF  OBLIVION. 


ISO- 


syllables,  has  been  connected,  by  those 
who  prefer  sound  to  sense,  with  the 
Lethe  of  the  ancients,  which,  however, 
is  the  Limia,  near  Viana,  in  Portugal, 
and  obtained  its  oblivious  reputation, 
because  the  Spanish  army,  their  leader 
being  killed,  forgot  on  its  banks  the 
object  of  the  campaign,  and  disbanded 
most  orientally  each  man  to  "  his  own 
home.*'     Cosas  de  JEspana. 

This  Limsea,  or  Limia,  was  the  fur- 
thest point  to  which  Brutus  advanced, 
as  his  troops  trembled,  fearing  that 
they  should  forget  their  absent  wives. 
Florus  (ii.  17.  12)  records  this  unmili- 
tary  fear.  Strabo  (iii.  229)  observes 
that  some  called  the  Limia  BiXiSvet, 
which  Oasaubon  happily  amends  oliXto- 
v£v9ti  the  riuvius  Obhvionis  of  Pliny, 
Mela,  and  Liyy.  The  Grteco-Roman 
name  of  the  Gaudalete  was  Ohrysos, 
and  golden  is  the  grape  which  grows 
on  its  banks :  it  is  that  fluid,  and  not 
what  flows  between  them,  which  erases 
their  absent  dames  from  the  memories 
of  bad  husbands.  It  is  stated  by  Flo- 
rez  (Esp.  Sag.  ix.  53)  that  the  liame 
Chrysos  was  changed  by  the  victorious 
Moors  into  Wad-al-lededy  JEl  rio  de 
deleite,  the  river  of  dehght ;  but  this 
is  a  very  doubtful  etymology,  and  the 
Moorish  name  really  was  Wada-leJcah. 
A  wild  bridle-road  through  Arcos  com- 
municates with  Honda.     See  p.  263. 

The  Camino  real,  on  leaving  Xerez, 
on  one  side  skirts  a  waste  called  La 
Llanura  de  Caulina;  it  is  well  pro- 
vided with  bridges,  by  which  the  many 
streams  descending  from  the  moun- 
tains to  the  rt.  are  crossed.  The  lonely 
expanse  is  truly  Spanish,  and  in  spring 
teems  with  beautiful  flowers,  of  which 
the  botanist  may  fill  a*  vasculum  and  a 
note-book. 

UtrerayVtricvlBf  during  the  Moorish 
struggle,  was  the  refuge  of  the  agricul- 
turist who  fled  from  the  Spanish  talas 
and  border  forays,  and  is  inhabited  by 
rich  farmers,  who  rent  the  estates 
around,  where  much  com,  oil,  fruit, 
and  wine  is  produced ;  here  vast  flocks 
are  bred,  and  those  fierce  bulls  so  re- 
nowned in  the  Plaza.  Pop.  11,000. 
The  streets  and  alamedas    are   kept 


clean  and  fresh  by  running  streams. 
Formerly  flourishing  and  very  popu- 
lous, it  fell  into  decay,  but  withSn  10 
years  has  been  much  improved  by  an 
alcalde  named  Cuadra.  The  Carmelite 
convent  was  tiumed  into  a  prison,  and 
the  Sn.  Juan  de  Dios  into  a  philhar- 
monic theatre.  The  Sa.  Maria  de  la 
Mesa  has  a  good  Berruguete  portal, 
called  el  Perdon,  and  a  tomb  of  a  Ponce 
de  Leon,  with  an  armed  kneeUng  figure. 
Tliere  is  a  ruined  castle.  Utrera,  in  a 
military  point,  is  of  much  importance. 
The  high  road  from  Madrid  to  Cadiz 
makes  an  angle  to  reach  Seville,  which 
can  be  avoided  by  marching  from  Ecija 
direct  through  Arahal.  The  saints  of 
Utrera  have  long  rivalled  the  buUs : 
thus  the  Yirgen  de  la  Consolacion  at 
the  Convento  de  Minimos,  outside  the 
town,  N.E.,  is  the  Palladium  of  the 
ploughmen.  Built  in  1561,  it  used  to 
be  frequented  by  thousands  on  the  8th 
of  Sept.,  when  a  fair  was  held,  and 
votive  offerings  made :  now  httle  more 
takes  place  than  the  sale  of  children's 
toys ;  nay,  there  is  a  scheme  of  tiuming 
the  building  into  a  madhouse.  Tem- 
pora  mutantur.  Consult  an  especial 
book  on  this  "  Santuario  "  by  Bodrigo 
Caro,  8vo.,  Osuna,  1622.  Consult  JSpi- 
logo  de  Utrera^  Pedro  BomanMelendez, 
4to.,  Sevilla^  1730.  About  2  L.  from 
Utrera  is  a  fine  oUve  hacierida  of  the 
Conde  de  Torre  Nueva,  which  is  well 
managed  j  at  Morales  1  L.  to  1.  are  the 
ruins  of  a  most  ancient  castle.  There 
is  a  short  bridle-road  to  Seville,  by  which 
Alcaic  is  avoided  and  left  to  the  rt. 

Alcald  de  Ghiadaira,  where  the  Po- 
sada is  very  tidy,  signifies  the  "  castle 
of  the  river  Aira,"  and  was  the  Punic 
Hienippa,  a  "  place  of  many  springs." 
It  is  idso  called  de  los  Panaderos,  "  of 
the  bakers,^'  for  it  has  long  been  the 
oven  of  Seville :  bread  is  the  staff 
of  its  existence,  and  samples  abound 
everywhere ;  JRoscas,  a  circular-formed 
rusky  are  hung  up  hke  garlands,  and 
hogazas,  loaves,  pla43ed  on  tables  out- 
side the  houses.  "  Panis  liic  long^ 
pulcherrimus ;  it  is,  indeed,  as  Spa- 
niards say,  Pan  de  IHos — the  "angels" 
bread  of  "  Esdras."      Spanish  href  " 


160 


ROUTE  4. — ALCALA. — AQUEDUCT. 


Sect.  II. 


was  esteemed  by  the  Itomans  for  its 
lightness  (PUn.  'N.  H.'  xvui.  7).  All 
ckisses  here  gaia  their  bread  by  making 
it,  and  the  water-miUs  and  mule-mills, 
or  (Uahona9f  are  never  still ;  they  ex- 
ceed 200  in  number :  women  and  chil- 
dren are  busy  picking  out  earthy  parti- 
cles from  the  grain  which  get  mixed, 
from  the  common  mode  of  threshing 
on  a  floor  in  the  open  air — the  era,  or 
Boman  area.  The  com  b  very  care- 
fully ground,  and  the  flour  passed 
through  several  hoppers  in  order  to 
secure  its  fineness.  Visit  a  large  bake- 
house, and  observe  the  care  with  which 
the  dough  is  kneaded.  It  is  worked 
and  re- worked,  as  is  done  by  our  biscuit- 
bakers:  hence  the  close-grained  caky 
consistency  of  the  crumb.  The  bread 
is  taken  into  Seville  early  every  morn- 
ing. Alcala,'pop.  about  6000,  is  pro- 
verbial for  salubrity,  and  is  mucli  re- 
sorted to  as  a  summer  residence,  and 
it  always  escapes  the  plagues  which 
so  often  have  desolated  Seville;  the 
air,  freshened  by  the  pure  Bonda 
breezes,  is  rarefied  by  the  many  ovens, 
of  which  there  are  more  than  50.  For 
local  information  consult  the  Memorias 
Historicas  de  Alcalde  Leandro  Jose  de 
Flores,  duo,  Sevilla,  1833-4. 

The  castle  is  one  of  the  finest  Moor- 
ish specimens  in  Spain,  and  was  the 
land-key  of  Seville.  It  surrendered, 
Sept.  21,  1246,  to  St.  Ferdinand,  the 
garrison  having  ^* fraternised^*  with 
Ibn-1-Ahmar,  the  petty  king  of  Jaen, 
who  was  aiding  the  Christians  against 
the  SeviUians,  for  internal  divisions 
und  local  hatreds  have  always  been 
causes  of  weakness  to  unamalgamating 
Spain.  The  Moorish  city  lay  imder 
the  castle,  and  no  longer  Exists.  A 
small  mosque,  now  dedicated  to  San 
Miguel,  on  whose  day  the  place  was 
taken,  and  made  into  a  barrack  by  the 
French,  is  all  that  remains.  Observe 
the  tapia  walls,  the  mazmorras,  subter- 
ranean com  granaries,  the  cisterns,  al- 
ffibes,  the  inner  keep,  and  the  huse  don- 
jon tower,  la  torre  mocha  (mota),  built 
by  the  Spaniards.  The  river  below 
makes  a  pretty  sweep  round  the  rocky 
e,  and  long  lines  of  walls  run  down, 


following  the  slopes  of  the  irregular 
ground.  The  gardens  are  all  that  Flora 
and  Pomona  can  combine. 

In  the  town  observe  the  pictures  in 
San  Sebastian  by  Fr**.  Pacheco,  father- 
in-law  to  Velazquez,  and  also  a  "  Pur- 
gatory" by  him  in  the  church  of  San- 
tiago. In  the  convent  de  las  monjas 
is  a  Betablo  with  six  small  bas-reliefis 
by  Montanes.  The  "  Sa.  Clara  receiv- 
ing the  Sacrament"  is  the  best;  his 
small  works  are  rare  and  beautifiil. 

Alcala,  the  "  city  of  springs,"  sup- 
plies temperate  Seville  both  with  bread 
and  water,  prison  or  Iberian  fare.  The 
alembic  hill  is  perforated  with  tunnels : 
some  are  2  L.  in  length.  The  line 
of  these  underground  canals  may  be 
traced  on  the  outsides  of  the  hill  by 
the  lumbreraSf  louvres,  or  ventilators. 
Do  not  fail  to  visit  the  Molino  de  la 
Mina,  whence  Pedro  de  Ponce  Leon, 
in  1681,  took  the  title  of  marquis. 
The  excavations  in  the  bowels  of  the 
rock  are  most  picturesque,  and  no 
crystal  can  be  clearer  than  the  streams. 
Some  of  these  works  are  supposed  to 
be  Boman,  but  the  greater  part  are 
Moorish.  The  collected  fluid  is  car- 
ried to  Seville  by  an  aqueduct;  the 
first  portion  is  enclosed  by  a  brick 
caueria.  The  Boman  works  were  com- 
pletely restored  in  1172  by  Jusuf  Abu 
Jacub  (Conde,  ii.  380) ;  but  all  was 
permitted,  as  usual,  to  go  to  decay 
under  the  Spaniards :  the  coping  was 
broken  in,  and  the  water  became  turbid 
and  unwholesome.  In  1828,  Don  Jose 
Manuel  de  Arjona,  Asistente  of  Seville 
and  its  great  improver,  set  apart  about 
40,000  dollars  from  a  tax  on  meat,  for 
the  restoration  of  this  supply  of  vital 
importance  to  an  almost  tropical  city ; 
but  this  ready  money  was  seized  upon, 
in  1830,  by  the  needy  Madrid  govern- 
ment, and  spent  in  putting  down 
Mina's  rebellion  aft«r  the  three  glorious 
days  at  Paris.  The  aqueduct,  on  ap- 
proaching Seville,  is  carried  in  on  some 
400  arches,  called  "  Canos  de  Car- 
mona"  because  running  along  the 
road  leading  to  that  city.  The  sports- 
man may  walk  with  his  gun  over  the 
flats  between  AlcaU  and  Seville  to  the 


J 


Andal 


ucia. 


ROUTE  5. — XEREZ  TO  SEVILLE. 


161 


1.  of  ths  high-road,  which  are  full  of 
snipes  and  wild-fowl  in  winter. 

The  v&lley  of  the  Chaadaira  above 
Alcald  should  be  visited  by  the  artist, 
to  see  the  Moorish  mills  and  towers 
which  Iria/rte  sketched,  who,  accord- 
ing to  Murillo,  was  fit  to  paint  Para- 
dise, so  relative  is  praise.  Iriarte^  a 
second-rate  artist,  was  almost  the  only 
landscape-painter  Spain  lias  produced. 
There,  as  among  the  ancients,  land- 
scape was  used  as  a  mere  background 
or  accessory,  and  deemed  beneath  the 
dignity  of  art.  Neither  the  Church 
nor  the  people  were  worshipers  of 
Nature,  or  had  any  genuine  percep- 
tion of  her  charms. 

Leaving  Alcala,  the  noble  causeway 
winds  gently  round  the  hill,  hanging 
over  the  river.  In  the  plains  below, 
amid  orange  and  ohve-groves,  rise  the 
sun-gilt  towera  of  stately  Seville.  The 
Moorish  Giralda  is  pre-eminently  the 
emphatic  point.  To  the  r.  of  the  road, 
about  2  miles  from  Seville,  is  the  Mesa 
del  Rey,  a  square  stone  table  on  which 
the  bodies  of  criminals  are  quartered,  "a 
pretty  dish  to  set  before  a  long ;"  this  is 
an  Arabic  custom,  andsuch  atableexists 
at  Cairo  (Lane,  i.  332).  Next,  we  reach 
La  Cruz  del  Campo,  placed  in  an  open 
Moorish-looking  temple,  but  erected  in 
1482.  It  is  also  callea  el  Humilladero  : 
here  travellers  used  to  kneel,  and  thank 
the  Virgin  and  Santiago  for  safe  arrival 
at  their  journey's  end,  having  escaped 
the  pains  and  perils  of  Spanish  travel ; 
now  both  these  dangers  and  their  piety 
are  much  decreased;  here  the  liJsta- 
Clones  (see  p.  187)  from  the  Casa  de 
JPilatos  terminate. 

The  bridle-road  from  Xerez  to  Se- 
ville is  much  shorter  than  the  circuit 
made  by  the  dihgence ;  it  crosses  the 
plains,  but  is  scarcely  carriageable  ex- 
cept in  summer, 

EorTE  5. — Xeeez  to  Sbvillb. 


Lebrija 5 

Cabezas  de  Sn.  Juan    .     .  2 

A  los  Palacios  ....  3 

Sevilla 4 


7 
10 
14 


An  uninteresting  ride  over  the  Ma- 


risma  leads  to  Lebrija,  nicely  placed  on 
a  slight  eminence,  with  a  dLeaent posada. 
This  is  the  ancient  Nebrissa-Veneria, 
according  to  Pliny  (*  N.  H.,*  iii.  1)  ; 
others  read  Venaria,  and  connect  it, 
with  the  huntings  of  the  Nimrod  Bac- 
chus and  his  wines  (Sil.  Ital.  iii.  393). 
Bochart  derives  the  name  from  the 
Punic  N'ae-Pritzaf  a  "  land  of  over- 
flowing," to  wliich  these  riverain  flats 
are  subject.  Here  was  bom  the  great 
grammarian  and  restorer  of  letters  in 
Spain,  Antonio  Cala  Jarana  del  Ojo, 
better  known  as  Nebritsensis.  Observe 
Ija  Mariquita  del  MarmolejOy  a  head- 
less Boman  statue,  now  christened  the 
Uttle  marble  Mary;  notice  the  florid 
plateresque  Hetablo  of  the  Parroquia, 
once  a  mosque, '  with  some  of  the  ear- 
liest carvings  in  cedar  and  mahogany 
of  Alonso  Cano,  1630-36,  especially 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  all  his  mild 
and  melancholy  grace,  and  the  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul.  Behind  the  church 
is  a  pretty  orange  planted  cloister,  with 
a  good  crucifix  by  Montaiies.  Leaving 
Lebrija,  the  plains  become  more  mono- 
tonous. Of  Cabezas  de  San  Juauy  a 
miserable  hamlet,  the  proverb  says,  No 
se  hace  nada  en  el  consejo  del  rey^  sin 
Cabezas.  To  judge  by  the  results  of 
most  of  the  councils  of  Madrid,  the  ca- 
binet has  too  often  been  selected  from 
this  wrong-headed  village.  It  was  one 
of  the  first  places  which  responded  to 
the  cry  of  Biego,  for  which  he  was 
ha»ged,  and  so  many  others  lost  their 
heads  on  the  scaffold.  Before  arriving 
at  Los  Palacios,  is  a  long-ruined  Ro- 
man and  Moorish  causeway,  La  alcan^ 
tarilla  (Arabic^,  the  Uttle  bridge), 
raised  on  accoimt  of  the  inundations 
above  the  level  of  the  Marisma,  and 
now  half  dilapidated.  Los  Palacios 
are  any  thing  now  but  palaces.  The 
common  occurrence  of  the  term  de- 
notes either  the  past  magnificence  of 
Spaniards,  or  their  habit  of  calling 
their  geese  swans* 


162 


ROUTE  6. — ATALAYAS — WATCH  TOWERS. 


Sect.  II. 


Route  6. — San  Lucae  to  Aya- 

MONTE. 

Torre  be  Solavar    ...  2 

Torre  de  Carboneros   .     .  1  . .  3 

De  la  Higuerita.    .     .     .  2  . .  6 

Del  Oro  .,,,,.  3  ..  8 

Moguer 3  ..  11 

Huelva 1  ..  12 

Alfaraque 1  ..  13 

Gartaya 2  ..  15 

Lepe       ......  1  ..  16 

Redondela 1  ..  lY 

Ayamonte 3  ..  20 

It  remains  to  describe,  as  shortly  as 
possible,  the  dreary  roadless  country 
which  lies  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Gua- 
dalquivir, and  which  extends  to  the 
G-uadiana  and  the  Portuguese  frontier. 
This  is  called  the  Marisma  or  marsh 
district,  and  also  the  Condadoy  or 
county  of  Niebla:  formerly  it  was  a 
petty  Moorish  kingdom  and  with  most 
of  this  district  passed  into  the  great 
Guzman  family.  Let  none  go  there 
except  driven  by  dire  necessity,  or  on  a 
sporting  excursion.  Spanish  mis-go- 
vernment and  neglect  have  here  done 
their  worst. 

There  is  constant  communication  by 
water  in  picturesque  Misticos;  those 
who  go  by  land  must  ride.  The  accom- 
modations are  everywhere  wretched : 
attend,  therefore,  to  the  provend,  as 
nothing  of  comfort  will  be  found  but 
what  the  wayfarer  brings  with  him. 
The  wide  plains  are  almost  uninhabited 
and  uncultivated,  but  the  inherent  fer- 
tihty  of  the  soil  is  evidenced  by  the 
superb  stone-pines  and  fig-trees,  which 
may  be  termed  indigenous.  The  coast- 
road  is  guarded  by  AtaUiyasy  or 
"  watch-towers,"  Arabic^  Talidh^  from 
taleai  to  "  look  out  from  above :"  they 
are  of  remotest  antiquity,  as  the  coasts 
of  Spain  have  always  been  exposed  to 
piratical  descents  from  Africa,  where 
the  descendants  of  the  Carthaginians 
never  forgot  their  dispossession  by  the 
Bomans.  The  Berber  Moors  recovered 
the  country  of  their  Oriental  fore- 
fathers ;  and  their  descendants,  again 
dispossessed  by  the  Spaniards,  remem- 
"^^er  a  land  which  they  still  consider 
ir  rightful  property. 


Hannibal  buiit  so  many  of  these 
atalayas  on  the  coast  from  Cadiz  to 
Saguntum  that  they  went  br  his  name, 
"  turres,  speculas  Hannibalis "  (Plin. 

*  N.  H.'  ii.  71)  ;  Csesar  followed  his 
example  (Hirt.  *B.  H.'  7)  ;  from  these, 
signals  were  made  by  fire  at  night,  by 
smoke  by  day.  These  were  the  "  sign  of 
fire"  (Jer.  vi.  1),  the  ^^vzrat  of  Thueyd. 
(iii.  22),  and  see  Polyb.  (x.  43,  45), 
and  the  magnificent  lines  of  jEschylus 
(Ag.  291).  Pliny  describes  these  *4gnes 
prsenunciativos"  as  used  "propter  pira- 
ticos  terrores,"  and  so  Charles  V.  re- 
paired these  marteUo  towers  when 
threatened  by  the  invasions  of  Barba- 
rossa.  Thus  they  have  occupied  the 
same  sites,  and  testify  the  continuance 
of  the  same  fears  of  unchanged  Iberia, 
whether  Carthaginian,  Koman,  Moor- 
ish, Gothic,  or  Spanish ;  many  are  very 
picturesque,  perched  on  headlands  and 
eminences;  they  stand  forth  on  the 
blue  sky,  like  lonely  sentinels  and  mo- 
numents of  the  dangers  of  this  ever- 
troubled  land.  They  now  are  generally 
occupied  by  preventive  service  guards. 

They  are  commonly  built  in  tapia^ 
a  sort  of  African  or  Phoenician  con- 
crete, introduced  with  the  system  of 
the  towers  themselves,  and  like  them 
continued  imchanged  in  the  cognate 
lands  of  Spain  and  Barbary.  The 
component  mixture  of  stones,  mortar, 
and  rubble,  is  placed  moist  in  a  move- 
able frame  of  wood  kept  together  by 
bolts ;  it  is  then  rammed  down,  the 
bolts  withdrawn,  and  moved  onwards 
or  upwards  as  the  case  requires.  Hence 
the  Bomans  called  them  "parietes 
formacei,"  walls  made  in  frames  (PUny, 

*  N.  H.*  XXXV.  14)  ;  he  particularly  de- 
scribes those  of  Spain,  and  notices  their 
indestructibility  :  they,  in  fact,  become 
sohd  masses,  petrifactions.  The  Goths 
continued  the  practice,  calling  the 
method  "  formatum  j"  and  horma  still 
means  a  mud  wall.  The  word  tapia  is 
Arabic ;  it  is  still  called  toU  in  Egypt, 
and  signifies  an  earthen  wall,  Devonic^, 
Coh,  These  walls  continue  to  be  now 
built  both  in  Andalucia  and  Barbary 
after  the  same  ancient  method  (see  our 
paper  in  the  Quart.  Bev.  cxvi.  537,  for 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  6. — MOGUER — COLUMBUS. 


16a 


the  learning  and  practice  of  these  Ta- 
rieties  of  Coh). 

»  Moguer — Lontigi  Alontigi — the  pre- 
sent word  means  in  Arabic  caves^  of 
which  there  are  many  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood— rises  gently  above  the  Rio 
G?into,  and  traffics  in  wine  and  fruit ; 
the  town  and  castle  are  much  dilapi- 
dated. The  parish  church-tower  is 
built  after  the  Giralda  of  Seville.  Be- 
low Moguer  is  the  port,  Palos,  Palus 
Streplaca.  Visit,  one  short  L.  from 
JPalos,  the  Franciscan  convent  Santa 
Maria  Mdbida,  a  Moorish  name  so 
common  in  Spain,  and  signifying 
"frontier  or  exposed  situations,"  R4b- 
bitah,  Bebath,  which  were  defended  by 
the  Babitos ;  these  were  the  Marabi- 
tins,  the  Morabitos,  the  Almorabides 
of  Conde,  a  sort  of  Ghilzee,  a  half  fa- 
natic soldier-monk,  from  whom  the 
Spaniards  boirowed  their  knights  of 
Santiago. 

This  convent  was  ordered,  in  1846,  to 
be  preserved  as  a  national  memorial, 
and  is  to  be  fitted  up  forinvalidsoldiers; 
it  has  already  given  shelter  to  those 
great  men  whom  Spain  could  once 
produce ;  but  it  is  now  fasi  going  to 
ruin,  and  the  wood  of  the  cells  stripped 
off.  Here,  in  1484,  Columbus,  craving 
charity  with  his  little  boy,  was  received 
by  the  Prior  Juan  Perez  de  Marchena. 
^fh\a  monk,  when  the  wisest  kings  and 
councils  had  rejected  as  visionary  the 
scheme  of  the  discovery  of  the  New 
World,  alone  had  the  vdt  to  see  its 
probability,  the  coiu*age  to  advocate 
the  plan,  and  the  power  to  prepare  the 
experiment.  He  must,  indeed,  share 
in  the  glory  of  the  discovery  of  Ame- 
rica, for  by  his  influence  alone  with 
Isabella,  was  his  proteg^  Columbus  en- 
abled to  sail  on  this  expedition.  The 
armament  consisted  of  two  caravels,  or 
light  vessels  without  decks,  and  a  third 
one  of  larger  burden  j  120  persons  em- 
barked and  started  "on  the  3rd  of 
August,  1492,  fi^m  this  port  of  Palos, 
and  bidding  adieu  to  the  Old  World, 
launched  forth  on  that  unfathomed 
waste  of  waters,  where  no  sail  had 
ever  been  spread  before  "  (Prescott,  ii» 
214).    Columbus  was  accompanied  by 


some  adventurers  of  the  name  of  Pin- 
zon,  a  family  not  yet  extinct  in  these 
locaUties ;  and  to  this  very  port,  on 
March  15,  1493,  7  months  and  11 
days  afterwards,  did  he  return,  having; 
reaUsed  his  grand  conception,  con- 
ferred a  new  world  on  his  sove- 
reigns, and  earned  immortality  for 
himself — services  soon  to  be  repaid  by 
breach  of  faith  and  ingratitude.  Co- 
sas  de  JSspana.  At  Palos,  again, 
Cortes  landed  in  May,  1528,  after  the 
conquest  of  Mexico,  and  also  found 
shelter  in  the  same  convent  walls  where: 
Columbus  had  lodged  on  his  return 
35  years  before,  and  like  him  returned 
to  be  also  shghted  and  ill-rewarded^ 
By  a  strange  coincidence,  Pizarro,  the^ 
conqueror  of  Peru,  was  also  at  Palos  at 
this  moment,  commencing  that  career 
of  conquest,  bloodshed,  and  spoUation, 
which  Cortes  was  about  to  close.  Pi- 
zarro was  assassinated.  Those  accom-> 
plished  Americans,  Prescott  and  Wash- 
ington Irving,  have  with  singular  grace 
and  propriety  illustrated  the  age  ot 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  when  their 
country  was  discovered.  For  the  best 
works  on  its  early  history,  consult 
catalogue  published  by  Mr.  Eich,  in 
London,  1832  :  or,  in  the  *  JBiblio'^ 
theque  Americainey  by  M.  Temaux.. 
Paris,  1837.  Palos  now  is  a  poor 
fishing  port,  and  a  thing  of  decrepid. 
Spain. 

Jffuelva,  Onuba,  of  Phoenician  origin 
(consult  " Disertacion  sohre  Onuha^^' 
Barco  y  Qasca,  4to.  Sev.  1755  j  and 
*  JSuelva  ilvtstrada^  Juan.  Ag.  de  Mora.. 
4to.  Sev.  1762),  stands  on  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Odiel  and  Tinto.  Some 
antiquaries  read  in  the  word  Onuha 
"  abimdance  of  grape  bunches."  As- 
tarloa  prefers  the  Basque,  and  trans-^ 
lates  Wuelba  as  a  "hill  placed  under 
a  height."  It  is  a  seaport,  and  the 
capitfii  of  its  triangular  province;  there- 
are  two  TxaAd^ng  posadas ;  pop.  7000.. 
It  is  a  busy  tunny-fisliing  town,  and 
in  constant  communication  with  Por- 
tugal, Cadiz,  and  Seville,  sending  much 
fruit  and  floor  mattings  to  the  latter- 
places.  Thew^ater  is  deUcious.  The 
vestiges  of  a  Roman  aqueduct  are  faf' 


164 


ROUTE  6. — THE  NORMANS  IN  SPAIN. 


Sect.  II. 


disappeai*ing,  having  long  served  as  a 
quarry  to  the  hoorish  cultivators  of 
the  rich  environs.  Meantime  the  mo- 
dest motto  of  the  place  is  "Portus 
Maris  et  terree  cust-odia !" 

Jffueha  is  15  L.  from  Seville ;  the 
road  is  merely  a  bridle  one.  The  chief 
traffic  is  carried  on  by  passage-boats, 
which  navigate  the  Guadalquivir.  The 
land  route  is  as  follows : — 

Saa  Juan  del  Puerto     .     .  2 

Niebla 2  ..  4 

Villarasa 2  ..  6 

LaPalma 1  ..  7 

Manzanilla 2  ..  9 

San  Lucar  la  Mayor      .     .  4  . .  13 

Seville 3  ..  16 

The  country  is  uninteresting,  al- 
though of  extraordinary  fertility  in 
titheable  oil,  wine,  fruit,  and  grain. 
NiehUty  accordingly,  has  5  parish 
churches,  and  had  2  convents,  a  decent 
spiritual  supply  for  580  inhab.  Niebla, 
the  ancient  Ilipla,  (Livy  xxv.  1),  lies 
between  the  rivers  VUlarasa  and  Beas^ 
and  has  a  castle  ruined  by  the  French, 
and  a  most  ancient  but  dilapidated 
bridge.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  its 
county  or  condado^  which  formed  a 
small  principahty  under  the  Moors ; 
here  much  bad  wine  is  made,  wliich  is 
sent  to  San  Lucar,  and  converted  for 
the  EngUsh  market  into  fine  sherry, 
neat  as  imported,  at  only  36 j.  the  dozen, 
bottles  included.  Palma,  with  some 
3500  souls,  is  equally  dull,  which,  in- 
deed, may  be  predicated  throughout 
this  fat  district,  which  a  judicious  tra- 
veller will  carefully  avoid. 

Continuing  R.  vi.,  after  leaving 
Huelva  and  crossing  the  Odiel  is  Lepe^ 
Leppa,  Leptis,  near  the  Bio  de  Fiedra : 
it  is  a  poor  town  in  a  rich  district, 
having  been  twice  sacked  by  the  French. 
The  population,  some  3000,  are  fisher- 
men and  smugglers.  Lepe  furnished 
the  Londoners  in  Chaucer's  time  with 
"  rede  and  white  wine,"  which,  accord- 
ing to  the  Pardoner's  tale,  was  sold  in 
"  Fish  Street  and  Chepe,"  and  "  crept 
eubtelly"  into  the  brains  of  the  citizens. 
These  drinks  probably  came  from  Be- 
dondella,  where  the  wines  are  excel- 

"^t,  and  the  fruit  delicious,  especially 


the  figs,  the  best  of  which  are  the  Lozio 
and  Pezo  mudo.  Here  grows  the  reed, 
juncOy  of  which  the  fine  Andaluciaji 
esteraSf  floor-mattings,  are  made.  Ayo' 
monte,  Sonoba,  Ostium  Anse,  was  the 
city  whence  the  Roman  miUtary  road 
to  Merida  commenced.  An  island  on 
the  Guadiana  is  still  called  Tyro,  and 
vestiges  of  ruins  may  be  traced.  Popu- 
lation, nearly  5000.  There  are  2  par- 
roquias  and  a  ruined  castle,  and  al- 
though a  frontier  fortress  it  is  in  a  most 
Spanish  and  Oriental  state  of  neglect, 
yet  it  calls  itself  the  key  and  port  of 
the  Guadiana :  the  neighbouring  pine- 
forests  provide  timber  for  building  mw- 
ticos  and  coasting  craft. 

In  the  ninth  century  the  Normans 
or  Northmen  made  piratical  excursions 
on  the  W.  coast  of  Spain.  They  passed, 
in  8-43,  from  Lisbon  down  to  the  straits, 
and  everywhere,  as  in  France,  over- 
came the  unprepared  natives,  plunder- 
ing, burning,  and  destroying.  They 
captured  even  Seville  itself,  Sept.  30, 
844,  but  were  met  by  the  Cordovese 
Kalif,  beaten  and  expelled.  They  were 
called  by  the  Moors  Majus,  Madjous, 
Magioges  (Conde,  i.  282),  and  by  the 
early  Spanish  annalists  Ahnajuzes.  The 
root  has  been  erroneously  derived  from 
Mecycfy  Magus,  magicians  or  superna- 
tural beings,  as  they  were  almost  held 
to  be.  The  term  Madjous  was,  strictly 
speaking,  applied  by  the  Moors  to 
those  Berbers  and  Africans  who  were 
Pagans  or  Muwallads,  i,  e.  not  believers 
in  the  Koran.  The  true  etymology  is 
that  of  the  Gog  and  Magog  so  fre- 
quently mentioned  by  Ezekiel  (xxxviii. 
and  xxxix.)  and  in  the  Bevelations  (xz. 
8)  as  ravagers  of  the  earth  and  nations, 
May-Gogg,  "  he  that  dissolveth." — The 
fierce  Normans  appeared,  coming  no 
one  knew  fi*om  whence,  just  when  the 
minds  of  men  were  trembling  at  the 
approach  of  the  millennium,  and  thus 
were  held  to  be  the  forerunners  of  the 
destroyers  of  the  world.  This  name 
of  indefinite  gigantic  power  survived 
in  the  Mogigangas^  or  terrific  images, 
which  the  Spaniards  used  to  parade  in 
their  religious  festivals,  hke  the  Gogs 
and  Magogs  of  our  civic  wise  men  of 


Anclalucia. 


ROUTE  7. — SAN  LUCAR  TO  PORTUGAL. 


165 


the  East.    Thus  Andalucia  being  the ' 
half-way  point  between  the  N.  and  S.E.,  I 
became  the  duel  meeting-place  of  the , 
two  great  ravaging  swarms  which  have  1 
desolated  Europe :   here  the  stalwart ' 
children  of  frozen  Norway,  the  wor- 1 
shippers  of  Odin,  clashed  against  the ' 
Saracens  from  torrid  Arabia,  the  fol-  I 
lowers  of  Mahomet.    Nor  can  a  greater 
proof  be  adduced  of  the  power  and 
relative  superiority  of  the  Cordovese 
Moors  over  the  other  nations  of  Eu- 
rope, than  this  their  successful  resist- 
ance to  those  fierce  invaders,  who  over- 
ran without  difficulty  the  coasts    of 
England,  France,  Apulia,  and  Sicily: 
conquerors  everywhere  else,  here  they 
were  driven  back  in  disgrace.    Hence 
the  bitter  hatred  of  the  Normans  against 
the  Spanish  Moors — ^henoe  their  aUi- 
ances  with  the  Catalans,  where  a  Nor- 
man impression  yet  remains  in  archi- 
tecture ;  but,  as  in  Sicily,  these  barba- 
rians,   unrecruited  from    the  North, 
soon  died  away,  or  were  assimilated  as 
usual  with  the  more  pohshed  people, 
whom  they  had  subdued  by  mere  su- 
periority of  brute  force. 


RorTE  7. — San  LrcAB  to  PoETrGAL. 

Palacio  de  Dofia  Anna     .  4 

AlRocio 3  ..  7 

AlnronLe 3  ..  10 

Rociana       .  ...  2  ..  12 

Niebla 2  ..  14 

TrigueroB 2  ..  16 

Gibraleon 2  ..  18 

Sao  Bartolom€  ....  3  ..  21 

A  los  Caatillegos     ...  3  ..  24 

San  Lucar  de  Guadiana    .  3  . .  27 

The  first  portion  is  some  of  the  finest 
shooting  country  in  Andalucia.  Ma- 
rismillas  is  an  excellent  preserve.  The 
palace  of  I>ona  Ana,  a  corruption  of 
Onana,  was  the  celebrated  sporting  seat 
of  the  Duque  de  Medina  Sidonia,  where 
he  received  Phihp  IV.  in  1624.  To 
the  N.  lies  the  Goto  del  Bey,  or  Lomo 
del  Gfrullo.  The  shooting-box  of  this 
royal  preserve  was  built  last  century 
by  Francisco  Bruna,  the  alcaide  of  the 
alcazar  of  Seville,  under  whose  jurisdic- 
tion these  woods  and  forests  ar3  or  were. 
Parties  who  come  with  a  permission 


from  the  Alcaide  can  be  lodged  in  this 
Palacio,  as  it  is  here  called ;  but  this 
Spanish  palace,  as  often  elsewhere, 
means,  in  plain  English,  -  cuatro  pa- 
redes,  four  bare  walls.  A  prudent  man 
— experto  crede — will  always  send  on 
a  galera  laden  with  everything  from  a 
cook  to  a  mattress :  take  especially 
good  wine,  for  fuel  and  game  alone 
are  to  be  had.  This  coto  is  distant  8 
L.  from  Seville,  and  the  route  runs 
through 


BoluUos  .         ....  3 

Aznalcazar 2 

Villa  Manrique  ....  1 

El  Coto 2 


5 
6 

8 


The  ride  is  wild ;  the  first  5  L.  run 
through  the  Ajarafe,  Arabic^  Sharaf, 
"  the  hilly  country."  This  fertile  dis- 
trict, once  called  the  garden  of  Her- 
cules, was  reserved  by  St.  Ferdinand  as 
the  hon's  share  at  the  capture  of  Seville. 
It  produced  the  finest  Beetican  olives 
of  antiquity,  and  imder  the  Moors  was 
a  paracUse,  but  now  all  is  riiin  and  de- 
solation. The  Spaniards  in  their  tolas, 
or  raids,  ravaged  everything,  and  broken 
roads  and  bridges  mark  their  former 
warfEire.  The  ruins  have  remained  un- 
removed,  unrepaired,  after  six  centuries 
of  neglect  and  apathy ;  meanwhile  there 
is  not  only  excellent  lodging  for  owls  in 
the  old  buildings,  but  capital  cover  for 
game  of  every  kind,  which  thrive  in 
these  wastes,  where  Nature  and  her  feriB 
are  left  in  undisputed  possession.  No 
man  who  is  fond  of  shooting  wiU  fail 
spending  a  week  either  at  the  Coto  del 
Mey,  or  that  of  I>ona  Ana, 

Leaving  the  last  place,  and  passing 
the  sanctuary  of  our  Lady  of  Dew,  we 
reach  Almonte,  in  the  **Condado"  of 
Niebla,  which  is  described  at  p.  162. 

Triffueros  (Cunistorgis)  was  the  port 
whence  the  ancients  shipped  the  ores 
of  the  Sierra  Morena,  the  Montes  Ma- 
rianos.  GHbraleon,  as  the  Arabic  name 
signifies,  "the  hiU  of  Color,"  pop. 
2500,  is  a  decayed  but  ancient  place. 
San  Ijucctr  de  ChMdiana  is  the  poor, 
ill-provided  frontier  town,  on  its  river, 
which  divides  Spain  from  Portugal, 
and  is  navigable  to  the  picturesque 
rock-built  Mertola,  5  L.  Ayamonte  lie» 


166 


KOUTE  7. — ^SEVILLE — ^LACQUEYS  DE  PLACE. 


Sect.  II. 


l)elow  San  Lucar,  distant  about  6  L. 
"by  water  (see  Rte.  vi.) :  we  again  re- 
peat, let  none  visit  this  rt.  bank  of  the 
•Q-uadalquivir,  except  to  shoot. 

Seyille. 

"  Quien  no  ha  visto  d  SeviUa^ 
No  ha  visto  d  maraviUa," 

*'  He  who  has  not  at  Seville  been, 
Has  not,  I  trow,  a  wonder  seen." 

Inns. — Fonda  de  Madrid,  Plaza  de 
Magdalena ;  the  best  but  dearish ; 
Fonda  de  JEuropa,  Calle  Q-allegosj 
good,  charges  30  reals  a  day;  La 
Meynay  Calle  de  Jimios,  an  old  and 
more  genuine  Spanish  ^o^oo^a,  is  kept 
by  a  civil  Portuguese ;  coldish  in  winter, 
it  is  pleasant  enough  in  summer.  Po- 
sada de  la  Union,  Calle  de  la  Union. 
There  are  many  decent  casas  de  pu^n- 
loss  the  charges  vary  from  15  to  26 
reals  a  day ;  lodgings  also  may  be  had 
in  plenty,  and  bad  dinners  sent  from 
the  restaurateurs.  The  traveller  should 
lodge  near  the  Plaza  San  Franpisco, 
and  if  he  intends  to  reside  here  a  winter, 
in  the  Calle  de  las  Armas,  or  at  all 
events  in  the  parish  San  Vicente,  which 
is  the  aristocratic  quarter.  Avoid  the 
flat  districts  near  the  Macarena,  as 
subject  to  inundations,  and  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Torre  del  Oro,  near 
which  the  open  Ta^a/rete — little  better 
than  a  Fleet-ditch — exhales  fever  and 
unhealthia^s. 

In  the  quarters  we  recommend,  while 
few  large  houses  are  to  be  let  furnished, 
the  rent  for  those  unfurnished  is  mo- 
derate— from  40^.  to  50^.  a  year:  a 
palace,  as  far  as  size  goes,  may  be  had 
for  lOOZ.  a  year ;  a  Spanish  house,  at 
best,  is  poorly  furnished,  according  to 
our  wants  and  notions,  but  carpets, 
&c.,  are  a  nuisance  here  to  every  living 
being  except  fleas. 

Those  about  to  furnish  will  find  tole- 
rable and  second-hand  articles  supplied 
at  the  brokers'  shops,  which  form  a 
street  of  themselves,  running  out  of  the 
Plaqa  de  la  Fncamadon:  and  these 
chalanes  wOl,  when  the  stranger  leaves, 
take  the  things  off*  his  hands;  let  no 
new  comer  buy  or  sell  with  these  un- 
conscionable people,  but  commission 


some  respectable  native;  thus  a  house 
may  be  furnished  in  a  day  or  two. 

Seville,  this  marvel  of  Bstica,  the 
Zeviya  de  mi  alma  of  the  Andalucians, 
being  a  place  of  easy  access  and  of  many 
attractions,  is  more  visited  than  most 
cities  of  Spain:  accordingly  the  demand 
of  foreigners  has  created  a  supply  of 
that  useful  personage  the  regular  lac- 
quey de  place,  who  is  rarely  to  'be  met 
with  in  other  towns.    Amon^  them 
Antonio  Bailly,  to  be  heard  of  at  the 
Reyna,  or  at  his  house,  No.  6,  CaUe 
Reynoso,  can  be  recommended,  not  only 
as  a  good  guide  in  the  town,  but  for  a 
courier  or  travelling  servant  through- 
out Spain  :  he  has  much  experience  in 
that  line,  and  makes  a  capital  factotum 
and  dragoman  to  those  who   cannot 
discourse  eloquent  Spanish.     Antonio 
is  i&t  and  good-humoured,  speaks  Eng- 
lish well,  can  sing  a  good  Andalucian 
song,  manage  to  get  up  a  gipsy /wmow 
en  Triana,  &c.  &c.     This  dance  is  the 
real  thing,  and  the  unchanged  exhibi- 
tion of  the  ImprobcB  GaditancB  of  an- 
tiquity.   A  public  Baile  is  given  in  the 
Salon  Oriente  every  Saturday  evening, 
admittance  one  dollar.     English  ladies 
had  fer  better  not  go.    Another  intelli- 
gent guide,  Ghtstave  de  Willinskif  maybe 
heard  of  at  the  Europa;  By  birth  a  Pole, 
he  was  formerly  a  professor  of  languages, 
of  which  he  speaks  many.     Jose  Lasso 
de  la  Vega,  an  officer  who  once  served 
under  Sir  C,  Campbell,  and  who  is  to 
be  heard  of  at  the  Union,  speaks  excel- 
lent CastUian.     Pascual  Rose,  at  the 
Madrid,  a-  native  of  Gibraltar,  speaks 
five  languages,  is  a  good  cook  and  a 
capital  servant.    Ditto  FredericJc  Bar- 
low,  who  was  bom  in  Spain  of  an  Eng- 
lish father.     Qaetano  PeicJcler,  an  an- 
cient and  good  Cicerone,  lives  at  No.  3, 
Calle  de  los  Menores  ;  he  is  a  Spaniard 
by  birth,  although  of  German  origin, 
and  speaks  English  weU:   he  traffics 
also  in  copies  of  pictures,  clay  figures, 
&c.    All  travellers  should  consult  Don. 
Julian  Williams,  our  most  excellent  and 
obliging  Vice-Consul.    There  is  a  Ca- 
sino here  in  the  Plaza  del  Duque,  in 
the  old  ducal  palace;  but  no  one  is 
admitted  in  the  Majo   (the  genuine 


Andalucia,    route  7. — Seville — tradesmen — history. 


167 


dress  of  Seville)  dress,  all  nowadays  is 
80  civilised  and  denationalised! 

The  £Gur  ses  will  find  the  Calles 
Francos  and  de  la  Sierpe  the  most 
fashionable  and  best  supplied  shopping 
streets.  Grenerally  speaking  the  dif- 
ferent trades  dwell,  as  anciently  in  the 
East  (Jer.  xxxvii.  21),  in  streets  appro- 
priated to  themselves;  thus  booksellers 
congregate  in  the  Calle  de  Genoa — 
their  Paternoster-row ;  silversmiths  live 
under  the  arcades  of  the  Plaza  and  in 
the  adjoining  Calle  Chicarreros;  hard- 
ware dealers,  here  called  los  Alemanes^ 
reside  opposite  the  cathedral ;  saddlers 
and  makers  of  the  gaiter,  the  embroi- 
dered national  botin,  in  the  Calle  de  la 
Mar:  of  these  Bernardo  Delgado  is 
the  best ;  Penda,  Calle  de  la  Borcigue- 
neria  (a  Moorish  boot),  was  the  crack 
tnajo  tailor ;  Martinez,  Calle  de  Genoa, 
ranks  high  for  more  European  raiment. 
The  names  of  many  of  the  streets — 
Calle  Francos,  Genoa,  Alemanes,  Flo- 
centines,  &c.,  offer  the  surest  evidence 
that  traffic  was  chiefly  managed  by 
foreigners,  Flemings  especially,  who  had 
factories  and  privileges,  and  this  even 
in  vaunted  commercial  Seville. 

The  invalid  will  find  Seville  a  very 
eligible  place  for  winter  residence.  Dr. 
Francis  (p.  37)  gives  full  hygienic 
details,  and  justly  enlarges  on  the  vo- 
luptuous softness  of  the  air,  of  a  nature 
which  exhilarates  both  morally  and  phy- 
sically. He  dwells  on  the  effects  of  its 
sunshine,  which  rekindle  strength  and 
youthful  feelings.  Calmness  forms  a 
marked  character  of  the  climate,  which 
is  dryer  ahd  warm^  than  Cadiz,  and 
very  suitable  for  cases  of  bronchitis 
and  atonic  dyspepsia;  another  pecu- 
liarity is  the  kindly  manner  in  which 
serious  wounds  heal. 

The  man  of  letters  will  not  lack  food 
for  the  mind,  as  few  cities  have  had 
more  chroniclers  than  Seville.  The 
best  works  are  Historia  de  Sevilla, 
Alonso  Morgado,  foL,  Sev.  1587 ;  His- 
toria de  Sevilla,  Pablo  de  Espinosa 
de  los  Monteros,  fol.,  2  parts,  Sev. 
1627-30;  Antiffuedadesde  Sevilla, 'Ro- 
drigo  Caro,  fol.,  Sev.  1634;  Anales 
FcclesiasticoSf  Diego  Ortiz  de  Zuniga, 


fol.,  Sev.  1677 ;  this  excellent  work  was 
continued  down  to  1700  in  the  2nd 
ed.  by  Espinosa  y  Carcel,  6  v.  4to., 
Mad.  1795-96.  Anales  Ecclesiasticos 
y  Seglares,  firom  1671  to  1746,  by  Lo- 
renzo Bautista.  Zuniga,  fol.,  Sev.  1748  j 
also  Compendia  Historico,  Sev.  1766 ; 
and  the  new  ed.  under  the  name  of 
Varflora :  this  author  also  published  a 
work  on  the  Worthies  of  Seville,  Hijos 
de  Sevilla,  1796.  Of  modem  guides 
there  is  the  poor  *  Guia,'  by  Herera 
Davila,  Sev.  1832 ;  Seville  and  its  Vtci- 
nity,  by  F.  H.  Standish,  Lond.  1840,  a 
still  more  dull,  inaccurate  compilation. 

The  capture  of  Seville  from  the 
Moors  by  St.  Ferdinand,  a  campaign 
of  romance,  has  been  illustrated  by  the 
ballads  and  fine  arts  of  Seville.  The 
student  will  consult  the  Froissart-like 
Chronica  del  Sancto  JRey,  by  Don 
Lucas,  Bishop  of  Tuy,  an  eye-witness, 
fol.,  YaUadoUd,  1555 ;  the  Memorial, 
Juan  Pineda,  fol.,  Sev.  1627 ;  Acta  S, 
Ferdinandi,  Daniel  Paperbroch,  fol., 
Antwerp,  1688  j  the  Fiestas  de  la 
Santa  Iglesia  de  Sevilla,  Fernando  de 
la  Torre  Farfan,  foL,  Sev.  1672-3:  this, 
one  of  the  few  really  artistical  books  of 
Spain,  is  illustrated  with  etchings  by 
Sevillian  painters.  For  the  fine  arts 
there  are  the  excellent  Descrvpcion 
Artistica  de  la  Catedral  de  Sevilla, 
Cean  Bermudez,  8vo.,  Sev.  1804,  and 
his  Uttle  volume  on  the  Fintura  de  la 
Escuela  SevUlana,  Cadiz,  1806,  and  the 
Sevilla  Artistica,  J.  Colon  y  Colon, 
Sev.  1841 ;  for  Ecclesiastical  Antiqui- 
ties consult  Florez,  Fsp.  Sag.  ix.  j 
Ponz,  Viage,  ix.;  Sevilla  Fintoresca, 
Jose  Amador  de  los  Bios,  4to.,  Sev. 
1844.  The  Arabic  in  it  is  inaccurate: 
the  author  then  had  no  Gayangos  to 
help  him.  Consult  also  Noticia  Artis- 
tica by  Gonzalez  de  Leon,  and  the  good 
article  on  Seville  in  Madoz,  xiv.  209, 
which  is  a  book  of  itself. 

There  are  two  plans  of  Seville;  one 
very  large  and  accurate,  by  Vargas  y 
Machuca,  1788$  the  other  more  con- 
venient for  the  pocket,  by  Herrera  y 
Davila,  1832.  The  streetology  is  diffi- 
cult as  the  town  is  a  labyrinth  of  lanes, 
each  of  which  resembles  the  other;  and 


168 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — EARLY  HISTORY. 


Sect.  II. 


as  the  names  of  many  of  them  were 
very  absurdly  changed  in  1845,  the 
little  duodecimo  street  guide,  or  Calle- 
jero,  pubhshed  in  1846  by  Alvarez,' 
will  be  useful. 

Before  examining  Seville  as  it  is,  a 
brief  epitome  of  the  past  may  be  pre- 
fiftced :  the  history  and  date  of  its  foun- 
dation is  lost  in  the  obscurity  of  remote 
antiquity,  as  is  pretty  clear,  when  men 
go  to  Hispan  and  Hercules,  who  pro- 
bably never  existed.  The  old  name 
HiBpal  sounds  very  Punic,  and  is  de- 
rived by  Arias  Montano  from  Sejphela 
or  Speia,  a  plain,  which  is  much  more 
likely  than  the  derivation,  a  pcUis,  the 
piles  on  which  it  is  not  built;  this,  a 
mere  coincidence  of  soimd,  not  sense, 
misled  San  Isidoro  (Or.  xv.  1),  a  dread- 
ful "  maker  of  shots,"  but  who,  being  its 
archbishop,  might  have  known  better. 
Sut  sound  etymological  principles  are 
quite  modem,  and  when  Niebuhr 
alluded  to  "that  unspeakable  spirit 
of  absurdity  which  always  came  over 
even  the  most  sagacious  Greeks  and 
Romans  the  moment  they  meddled 
with  etymology,"  he  might  well  have 
added  "patristic  and  mediaeval  scho- 
lars and  even  saints."  Be  that  as  it 
may,  Hispal,  if  not  of  Iberian  founda- 
tion, was  certainly  a  Phoenician  settle- 
ment connecting  Gaddir  with  Cordova : 
the  Greeks  changed  the  name  into 
l^craka,  and  the  Bomans  into  Hispalis, 
of  which  the  Moors  made  Ishbiliah, 
whence  Sibilia,  Sevilla. 

Of  its  ante-Boman  history  little  is 
known  beyond  the  fact  that  it  was  soon 
eclipsed  by  Italica^  a  mihtary  town,  by 
Gades,  a  sea-port,  and  by  Cordova,  the 
residence  of  patrician  settlers.  JuUus 
Csesar  patronised  Seville,  because  Cor- 
dova had  espoused  the  side  of  Pompey ; 
having  captured  it  Aug.  9,  forty-five 
years  before  Christ,  he  became  its 
second  foimder,  made  it  his  capital,  a 
conventus  juridicuSy  or  town  of  assize, 
and  gave  it  the  title  Somulaf  the  little 
Bome;  but  even  then  it  was  more  a 
Pimic  than  Boman  city,  and  by  no 
means  splendid,  according  to  Italian 
notions  (Strabo,  iii.  208)  j  it  was,  how- 
ler, walled  round  (Hirt.  *  B.  H.'  35). 


Seville  was  the  capital  of  the  Silingi, 
and  of  the  Goths  imtil  the  sixth  cen- 
tury, when  Leovigild  removed  his  court 
to  Toledo,  as  being  more  centrally  situ- 
ated, while  HermenegilduB,  liis  son  and 
heir,  remained  as  viceroy  ;  he  soon  re- 
linquished the  Arian  faith,  and  declared 
against  his  father,  by  whom  he  was 
put  to  death  as  a  rebel ;  but  when  the 
Athanasian  Creed  was  finally  intro- 
duced, he  was  canonized  as  a  martyr. 
These  religious  wars  were  headed  by 
the  brothers  San  Laureano  and  San 
Isidoro,  men  of  powerful  intellects, 
successively  Archbishops  of  Seville, 
and  now  its  sainted  tutelars.  The 
former  is  called  the  "Apostle  of  the 
Goths,"  the  latter  the  "Egregious 
Doctor  of  Spain."  (See  Index,  Jw- 
doro.) 

Seville,  with  all  Spain  to  the  west,  was 
conquered  by  the  Mahomedans  under 
the  same  Kalif  Walid,  who  subjugated 
Scinde  also  to  the  east.  The  unwarlike 
city  surrendered  to  the  Moors  at  once, 
after  the  defeat  of  Don  Boderick  on 
the  Guadalete :  there  was  treason  and 
dissension  within  its  walls,  for  the  de- 
throned monarch's  widow,  Egilona, 
soon  married  Abdu-1-aziz,  the  son  of 
the  conqueror  Musa-Ibn-Nosseir.  Se- 
ville continued  its  allegiance  to  the 
Xahf  of  Damascus  until  the  year  756, 
when  'Abdu-r-rahman  established  at 
Cordova  the  western  Kali&te  of  the 
Beni  Umeyyah  family,  to  which  Se- 
ville remained  subject  until  1031,  when 
that  dynasty  was  overturned,  and  with 
it  the  real  dominion  in  Spain  of  the 
Moor.  Then  the  ill-connected  fabric 
spht  into  sects,  almohades  and  ahnO" 
roffides,  and  separate  adventurers  set 
themselves  up  as  kings — sheiks — over 
each  province  and  town,  to  become 
rivals  and  enemies  of  each  other.  The 
Sevillian  separate  monarchy  was  short- 
lived. The  house  divided  against  itsdf 
could  not  stand,  and  still  less  at  a  mo- 
ment when  the  kingdoms  of  Leon  and 
Castile  were  consohdated  under  St.  Fer- 
dinand, one  of  their  best  of  kings,  and 
bravest  of  soldiers. 

^  He  advanced  into  Andaluoia,  taking 
city  after  city,  the  petty  rulers  being 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  7. — ^SEVILLE — ^ARMS  AND  DEVICES. 


169 


unable  to  resist  single-handed :  nay, 
partly  from  tribe  hatred  and  partly 
from  selfish  policy,  they  assisted  as 
fdlies  of  the  Christians,  each  bidding 
against  each  other ;  thus  Ibn-1-ahmar, 
the  upstart  Sheikh  of  Jaen,  mainly 
contributed  to  the  capture  of  Seville. 
The  city  was  besieged  from  the  S.E. 
side,  at  Tablada,  Aug.  20,  1247 :  the 
details  are  quite  a  romance,  especially 
the  vision  of  the  Virgin,  the  breaking  of 
the  bridge  of  boats  by  Eamon  Bon^Eiz, 
and  the  prowess  of  Diego,  M  Mach-acaj 
the  brother  of  Garci  Perez  de  Vargas, 
the  model  of  Don  Quixote  (i.  8) .  These 
are  the  subjects  and  heroes  of  baUads, 
and  of  the  poem  of  the  Conde  de  la 
Boca,  SI  Fernando^  6  Sevilla  Restau- 
raday  Milan,  1632:  an  author  who 
modestly  likened  himself  to  Tasso,  and 
took  San  Isidoro  for  his  Apollo.  Se- 
ville surrendered  Nov.  23,  1248,  on  el 
dia  de  San  Clemente,  The  citizens 
had  previously  been  subject  to  the 
Emperor  of  Morocco,  but  at  the  death 
of  Arrashid,  their  African  liege  lord, 
in  1242,  they  had  chosen  a  king  of 
their  own,  whom  they  soon  displaced, 
establishing  a  sort  of  republican  Junta, 
headed  by  Sakkaf,  the  Axataf  of  Spa- 
nish annals.  Thus  Seville  was  lost  to 
the  Moors  after  a  possession  of  636 
years.  After  the  capture  St.  Ferdinand 
divided  the  houses  and  lands  among 
his  soldiers,  and  this  curious  *  JReparH- 
mieniOf'  or  Doomsday  Book  of  Seville, 
exists,  printed  in  the  2nd  vol.  of  Espi- 
nosa's  work;  and  many  families  can 
trace  their  actual  houses  and  posses- 
sions up  to  this  original  partition. 
For  the  nobility  of  Andalucia,  see  iVb- 
hleza  del  Andaluzia,  G-onzalo  Argote 
de  Molina,  fol.,  SevUla,  1588 :  it  has 
plates  of  their  coats  of  arms,  and  is  a 
fine  and  rarish  book. 

St.  Ferdinand  granted  to  the  city  for 
arms,  himself  seated  on  his  throne,  with 
San  Laureano  and  San  Isidoro  for  his 
supporters.  He  died  here,  while  medi- 
tating an  invasion  of  Africa,  worn  out 
by  long  services,  May  31,  1252,  and 
was  canonized  in  1668  by  Clement  IX. ; 
his  body  was  removed  to  its  present 
shrine,  in  1729,  by  Philip  V.  All  these 

Spain — I. 


events  and  persons  form  subjects  for 
the  authors  and  artists  of  Seville,  and 
are  therefore  briefly  stated.  They  have 
been  tersely  summed  up  in  the  distich 
which  is  inscribed  over  the  Puerta'de 
la  Came — 

"  Condidit  Alcides— renovavit  Julius  urbem, 
Restituit  Christo  Femandus  tertius  heros." 

This  is  thus  paraphrased  over  the 
Puerta  de  Xerez : — 

**  Heradeg  me  ecUficd, 
Julio  C^sotr  me  cercd 

De  muros  y  torres  altos; 
{Un  Rey  Godo  meperdid),  omitted. 
£1  Rey  Santo  me  gan6t 
Con  Oarci  Perez  de  Vargas." 

**  Hercules  built  me ;  Julius  Csesar  surrounded 
me  with  walls  and  lofty  towers ;  a  Gothic  king 
lost  me ;  a  saint-like  king  recovered  me,  assisted 
by  Gard  Peree  de  Vargas." 

Seville,  in  the  unnatural  civil  wars 
after  the  conqueror's  death,  was  the 
only  city  which  remained  faithful  to 
his  son  and  successor,  Alonso  el  Sabio, 
the  Uamedy  but  not  wise.  He  was  like 
our  pedant  James  I.,  so  well  described 
by  Gondomar,  as  "  The  most  learned 
fool  in  Christendom,"  and  both  would 
have  made  better  professors  than  kings 
— capaces  imperii^  nisi  imperassent. 
Alonso  gave  Seville  the  badge,  which  is 
to  be  seen  carved  and  painted  every- 
where. It  is  called  JSl  Nodo,  and  is 
thus  represented :  No.  8  do  ;  the  hiero- 
glyphic signifies  No-m^ha  dexa-Do,  "  It 
has  not  deserted  me."  Madexa  in  old 
Spanish  meant  a  knot,  and  is  the  G-o- 
thic  Mataxa,  Nodus  (San.  Isid.  Or% 
xix.  29).  Thus  was  reproduced  unin- 
tentionally the  old  Phoenician  mer- 
chant mark,  the  Nodus  Herculis — the 
knot  which  guaranteed  the  genuineness 
of  the  contents  of  every  bale :  hence 
the  Mark  of  these  foimders  of  com- 
merce became  the  symbol  of  peace, 
trade,  and  of  the  god  of  thieves,  and 
was  perpetuated  by  the  Greeks  in  the 
twisted  ornaments  of  the  herald  Cadu" 
ceus  of  Mercury  (Macrob.  Sat.  i.  19). 

Seville  continued  to  be  the  capital  of 
Spain,  and  especially  of  Don  Pedro, 
who  was  more  than  half  a  Moor,  until 
Charles  V.  removed  the  court  to  Val- 
ladolid  i  yet  it  remained  fiuthful — ^true 

I 


170 


ROUTK  7. — SEVILLE  XJNDER  SOULT. 


Sect.  II. 


to  the  sun,  although  not  shone  upon — 
during  the  outbreak  of  the  comunerosy 
and  was  rewarded  by  a  motto,  "Ab 
Hercule  et  Csesare  nobilitas,  a  se  ipsd 
fidelitas."  The  discorepy  of  the  New 
World  raised  Seville  to  a  more  than 
former  splendour ;  it  became  the  mart 
of  the  golden  colonies,  and  the  residence 
of  princely  foreign  merchants.  Buona- 
parte's invasion  and  the  subsequent 
loss  of  the  transatlantic  possessions  cast 
her  down  from  her  palmy  pride  of 
place.  The  Junta  risked  the  battle  of 
OcaJia  in  despite  of  the  Cassandra 
warnings  of  the  Duke,  and  were  de- 
feated ;  the  conquerors  then  overran 
Andalucia,  and  in  a  few  days  the  heroic 
city  surrendered  (Feb.  2,  1810),  with- 
out even  a  show  of  fight.  Soult 
then  became  its  petty  king,  for  he  set 
Joseph  at  defiance.  "Mercy,"  says 
Schepeler,  "  was  erased  from  Ms  orders 
of  the  day :"  here  he  levied  gigantic 
contributions,  and  "  inexorably,"  as  he 
boasted,  carried  into  efiect  his  Draco 
decree  of  May  9,  1810,  ordering  "  all 
Spaniards  taken  in  arms  to  be  shot, 
without  any  form  of  trial;"  for  this 
he  himself  was  excluded  from  the  law 
of  nations  by  the  Regency.  Aug.  15. 
Well  might  Toreno  (xvi.)  exclaim, 
describing  the  illegal  execution  of  Juan 
Manuel  Lopez,  Nov.  29, 1811 :  "  Des- 
garra  el  corazon  crudeza  tan  desapia- 
dada  y  ha/rhara." — Toreno  (xx.)  esti- 
mates theFrench  plunder  at  six  millions 
sterling;  and  he  gives  the  details;  so 
does  Schepeler  (iii.  129) .  Soult*  s  name  is 
held  at  Seville  in  the  same  detestation  as 
Murat*s  is  at  Madrid,  and  Sebastiani's 
at  Qranada.  These  calculations  do  not 
include  the  stolen  pictures ;  Soult  as- 
ked the  dealer,  Mr.  Buchanan,  100,000 
napoleons  for  the  Munllos  alone. 
As  Moore  at  Sahagun  had  once  before 
saved  the  Andalucians,  now  the  Duke 
at  Salamanca,  delivered  them  again,  a 
little  fact  entirely  omitted  by  Madoz 
(xiv.  429),  and  Soult  fled  from  Seville 
Aug.  27, 1813,  closely  followed  by  Col. 
Skerrett.  Sir  John  Downie,  when  his 
Spanish  legion  of  Loyal  Estremenians 
would  not  fight,  joined  the  Enghsh, 
'ho  would,  and  charged   the  bridge 


three  times ;  he  was  wounded  and 
taken  prisoner,  yet  threw  back  to  his 
followers  his  sword,  that  its  honour 
might  remain  unsullied;  it  was  that 
of  Pizarro,  and  had  been  given  to  him 
in  reward  of  previous  valour,  and  now 
is  in  the  Armeria  at  Madrid,  No.  1769 : 
Downie  was  afterwards  made  Alcaide 
of  the  Alcazar,  not  Alcalde^  as  CoL 
Gurwood,  not  the  accurate  Duke,  notes 
(Disp.  June  11,  1809).  The  office  of 
Alcaide  is  one  of  high  honour ;  it  is 
the  Moorish  Kaid,  Dux  Arcis,  the 
other  a  petty  village  magistrate :  it  is 
almost  the  difference  between  the  Con- 
stable of  the  Tower,  and  a  Tower  con- 
stable. Downie  began  life  as  a  clerk 
in  the  commissariat,  and  was  a  true 
Andaluz.  The  English  entered  Seville 
amid  the  rapturous  acclamations  of 
the  inhabitants,  thus  deUvered  from 
Soult's  terrorism,  scaffolds,  and  con- 
fiscation. 

Seville,  in  1823,  was  made  the  asylum 
of  the  bragging  Cortes,  who  halted  here 
in  their  flight  from  Madrid,  and  who 
again  fled  at  the  first  approach  of  An- 
gouldme ;  but  this  capital  of  the  ever 
unwarUke  Andalucians  never  held  out 
against  any  one  except  Espartero  in 
July,  1843.  That  siege  lasted  about 
9  days,  and  during  6  only  were  any 
bombs  fired.  Accordingly,  less  than 
100  Sevillians  were  wounded,  of  whom 
only  20  died:  of  the  assailants  only 
29  were  killed.  Such  was  the  efficacy 
of  the  attack  and  defence  on  a  city 
containing  nearly  100,000  souls. 

Seville,  the  marvel  of  Andalucia,  can 
be  seen  in  less  than  a  week,  but  the 
invaUd,  artist,  and  antiquarian  may 
employ  some  weeks  there  with  plea- 
sure and  profit.  The  best  time  to 
visit  this  town  is  in  the  spring,  be- 
fore the  great  heats  commence,  or  in 
autumn,  before  the  November  rains 
set  in.  The  winter  is  occasionally 
very  wet ;  ice  and  snow,  however,  are 
almost  unknown,  except  for  eating, 
when  brought  as  luxuries  from  the 
mountains  of  the  Sierra  Morena :  the 
lower  part  of  the  town,  near  the  Ala- 
meda  Vtefa^  is  often  flooded  by  the 
river  inundations,  but  the  streets  are 


Andcducia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — FESTIVALS. 


171 


proyided  with  maleoones  or  hatches, 
which  are  then  shut  down  and  keep 
out  the  water.  The  summer  is  so  very 
hot,  that  it  is  ^most  impossible  to  &ce 
the  sun,  which,  with  every  precaution, 
can  with  difficulty  be  reduced  to  84° 
Fahr.  in-doors.  However,  the  town  is 
never  more  healthy  than  during  these 
great  heats.  Then  the  inhabitants 
keep  still  in  their  cool  houses  until 
the  evening ;  but  this  confinement 
is  against  the  curious  sight-seeing 
stranger.  Seville  is  one  of  the  most 
agreeable  towns  in  Spain  for  a  length- 
ened residence,  except  in  the  dog-days. 
It  is  near  Cadiz  and  Gibraltar,  and  of 
easy  access  to  the  Englishman.  The 
shooting  to  the  rt.  of  the  Guadalquivir 
is  good  and  novel;  the  theatres  are 
tolerable;  the  masquerading  at  car- 
nival-time entertaining ;  the  dances, 
both  those  of  the  stage  and  the  gip- 
sies, are  truly  nation^  and  Oriental. 
The  fairs  of  Mairena  and  Italica  (the 
latter  now  the  fashion)  exhibit  the 
M(ifo  and  Maja  gUttering  in  their 
native  sun,  shorn,  indeed,  of  former 
glory,  by  the  fatal  invasion  of  calico 
and  civilisation,  the  worst  foes  to  bar- 
baric splendour  and  costume.  Seville 
is  the  alma  mater  of  the  bull-fight, 
and  the  best  animals  and  masters  of 
the  art  are  furnished  from  Beetica. 
The  religious  functions  are  unrivalled, 
especially  in  the  Holy  Week — Corpus, 
St.  John's  Day — Christmas,  with  its 
Nitcimientog,  carols,  and  shepherd- 
dances — and  the  winter  Bosarios.  The 
ceremonial  of  the  Semana  Santa  is 
second  in  interest  to  that  of  Bome 
alone,  and  is  in  many  respects  quite 
peculiar,  such  as  in  the  Pasos,  or 
painted  and  graven  images,  which  are 
carried  through  the  streets  in  solemn 
procession ;  then  also  the  numumentOy 
or  sepnlclure,  in  which  the  hoRt  is 
buried,  is  lighted  up  in  the  cathedral, 
and  forms  a  splendid  sight,  which  must 
be  seen  to  be  really  understood. 

These  form  a  large  item  of  the  scanty 
and  moderate  amusements  of  the  bulk 
of  Sevillians.  Their  life  is  very  Orien- 
tal ;  they  delieht  in  cool  repose  and  the 
cigar.    They  nate  bustle,  exertion,  or 


being  put  out  of  their  way :  from,  not 
being  overdrugged  with  amusements — 
all  tasted,  nought  enjoyed — they  are 
not  liable  to  bore,  which  haunts  the 
most  mis-named,  most  ennuyed  people 
on  earth,  our  gay  world:  pleasure  to 
them  is  an  exception,  and  is  enjoyed 
with  the  rapture  of  children.  They 
plunge  at  one  bound  from  habitual 
gravity  into  boisterous  joy — du  sublime 
au  ridicule.  This  alternation  of  sloth 
and  violent  exercise — inedia  et  labor 
(Just.  xUv.  2) — was  one  of  the  marked 
features  of  the  Iberian  character,  as  it 
also  is  of  Asiatic  nations.  To  be  dri- 
ven about  and  abroad,  in  a  thirst  for 
pubUc  amusements,  is  the  desperate  re- 
source of  the  higher  states  of  wealth, 
luxury,  and  civilisation. 

The  city  itself  lies  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Guadalquivir^  which  flows  along 
the  arc  of  its  irr^ular,  ^most  circular 
shape ;  the  circumference  is  about  5  m. : 
it  is  enclosed  in  Moorish  walls  of  con- 
creteortapia,  which,  towards  the  Fuerta 
de  Cordova,  are  some  of  the  most  per- 
fect in  Spain,  and  are  provided  with 
66  towers  and  15  gates.  Seville  is  the 
see  of  an  archbishop,  having  for  suffira- 
gans  Cadiz,  Malaga,  Ceuta,  the  Canary 
Islands,  and  Tenenfie.  It  was  once 
one  of  the  most  levitical  cities  of  Spain, 
and  contained  140  wealthy  convents 
and  churches.  It  is  the  residence  of  a 
captain-general,  of  an  audiencia,  whose 
chief  judge  is  (xRedeUte^efUe;  it  con- 
tains 28  parishes  and  10  suburbs  of 
arrabales,  of  which  Triana,  on  the 
opposite  bank,  is  like  the  Trastevere  of 
Rome,  and  the  abode  of  picturesque 
gipsies  and  snuigglers,  and  where  the 
artist  leaves  his  heart.  Seville  has  the 
usual  provincial  civil  and  military  esta- 
blishments of  all  kinds,  such  as  bar- 
racks, prisons,  hospitals,  and  so  forth, 
which  do  not  deserve  much  notice  of 
foreigners,  who  manage  all  these  things 
so  much  better.  But  Spain  is  not  the  i 
place  for  political  economists,  lovers 
of  statistics,  poor-laws,  and  drainage; 
suaves  res.  Seville  possesses  a  Boyal 
Alcazar,  n  Plaza  de  Toros,  2  theatres,  a 
liceo,  public  library  and  museum,  a  uni- 
versity, and  beautiful  walks :  it  glorie'' 

I  2 


172 


ROUTE  7.—  SEVILLE — ^ANTIQUITIES. 


Sect.  II. 


in  the  titular  epithets  of  mu,y  leal  y 
nohle,  to  which  Ferd.  VIF.  added  muy 
heroica,  and  Senor  Lopez,  in  1843,  "  in- 
victai'*  after  the  repulse  of  Espartero. 
All  this  would  seem  ironical  to  those 
who  do  not  know  Spaniards  and  their 
system  of  concealing  disgrace  by  grant- 
ing honours  in  proportion  as  they  are 
least  deserved.  Seville,  fit  capital  of 
the  "  mazime  imbelles  Turdetani,"  has 
always  been  the  first  to  brag  and  then 
surrender :  it  has  never  successfully 
resisted  any  one,  except  their  Duke 
of  Victory!  The  population  exceeds 
100,000.    Madoz  makes  it  119,600. 

The  city  was  purely  Moorish,  as  the 
Moslem,  during  a  possession  of  5  cen- 
turies, entirely  rebuilt  it,  using  the 
Koman  buildings  as  materials.  The 
cHmate  is  so  dry  and  conservative  that 
the  best  houses  are  still  those  erected 
by  the  Moors,  or  on  their  models,  and 
most  charming  and  unique  they  are, 
and  perfectly  suited  to  the  climate : 
narrow  tortuous  streets  which  keep  out 
the  sun,  and  wide  spacious  mansions 
with  cool  courts  and  gardens  :  now  the 
Baker  Streets  of  civiUsation  are  all  the 
rage;  and  stuffjr  small  houses  with 
staircases,  and  broad  streets,  in  which 
mortals  are  roasted  tdive,  prove  how 
wise  the  Moors  were.  Of  Roman  re- 
mains there  are,  consequentlv,  scarcely 
any.  The  Sevillians  pretend  that  the 
walls  and  the  Torre  del  Oro  were  built 
by  Juhus  CsBsar,  which  is  sheer  non- 
sense, as  they  are  incontestably  Moor- 
ish, both  in  form  and  construction. 
The  Roman  city  was  very  small :  it 
extended  from  the  Puerta  de  Came, 
through  the  Plaza  San  Nicolas  and 
San  Salvador,  to  the  Puerta  de  Triana. 
In  the  Calls  de  los  Mammies  exists 
the  portico  of  a  Roman  temple;  3 
pillars  remain  buUt  into  the  Moorish 
nouses,  with  their  shafts  deeply  buried 
by  the  accumulated  rubbish.  In  the 
Alameda  Viefa  are  2  Roman  pillars, 
moved  there  in  1574  by  the  Conde  de 
Barajas,  the  great  repairing  and  build- 
ing governor  of  his  day,  who  put  them 
there  in  imitation  of  the  Piazza  de  Sig- 
lori  at  Venice.  In  the  CaUe  Abodes^ 
22,  ore  some  well-preaerved  Roman 


aubgrundariay  or  underground  tombs 
for  infistnts,  whose  bodies  were  never 
burnt  on  ftineral  piles-^  they  were  dis- 
covered in  1298  and  shut  up,  because 
thought  to  be  the  schools  where  the 
Moors  taught  magic ;  they  can  be  now 
descended  into,  and  are  curious.  In  the 
Ce.  de  la  Ouna,  No.  8,  was  accidentally 
discovered  a  subterraneous  Roman 
aqueduct,  which  still  flows  full  of  fresh 
water,  although  its  existence  is  abso- 
lutely unknown  to  the  majority  of  Se- 
villians, and  no  steps  have  ever  been 
taken  to  trace  or  recover  this  precious 
supply.  In  the  Casa  de  PUatos  are 
some  mutilated  antiques,  of  the  second- 
rate  merit  of  such  sculpture  as  is 
usually  found  in  Spain.  In  the  Museo 
are  heaped  up,  as  in  a  stonemason's 
yard,  a  few  antiquities  of  a  low  art, 
foimd  in  some  road-making  and  acci- 
dental excavation  at  Italica.  Don  Juan 
Wetherell,  Plaza  San  Bartolom^,  No. 
16,  has  a  collection  of  Roman  and 
Mexican  antiquities :  '  the  latter  were 
formed  in  S.  Ainerica  by  a  judge  named 
Gonzalez  Garvajal.  A  catalogue,  with 
Hthographic  prints,  was  published  by 
Mr.  W.  at  Seville  in  1842. 

Seville  is,  however,  a  museum  of 
Moorish  antiquities,  and  one  of  the  best 
places  to  observe  the  Arabic  ceilings  and 
marqueterie  woodwork,  artesonados  y 
ataraceas ;  the  stucco  panelling,  Ara- 
bic5  Tarkish,  the  Uenzos  de  Almizates, 
Almocarhes,  u^aracas  ;  notice  also  the 
elegant  window  divided  by  a  marble 
shaft,  Ajimes,  an  Arabic  term,  meaning 
an  opening  which  lets  in  the  sunbeam : 
beautiful  specimens  exist  in  the  Al- 
cazar, Calle  Pajaritos,  No.  15,  Gasa 
Prieto,  Ce.  Naranjos,  and  Casa  Mon- 
tijo,  behind  the  Parroquia  of  Omnium 
Sanctorum.  A  vast  number  of  Moor- 
ish houses  exist,  although  sadly  de- 
graded by  adaptations  to  modem  wants 
and  usages.  The  streets  are  narrow — 
a  wise  provision — in  order  to  keep 
them  shady  during  the  heat — now  the 
mania  is  to  widen  them :  the  exteriors 
are  plain,  and  windows  looking  to  the 
streets  were  hardly  known  before  the 
time  of  Charles  V.  They  are  still  bar- 
ricaded vrith  rfQoSy  or  iron  gratings, 


Andaluda, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVn^LE — AZULEJOS. 


173 


and  protected  in  summer  by  an  estera, 
or  matting,  thus  forming  a  favourite  al 
fresco  boudoir  for  the  fair  sex.  These 
shutterless  windows  form  the  evening 
rendezvous  to  the  cloaked  lover  who 
whispers  soft  nothings  to  his  bar-im- 
prisoned sweetheart ;  hence  he  is  said 
to  Uve  on  iron,  comer  hierro  ;  another 
term  for  this  popular  recreation  is  pelar 
la  pava  "  to  pluck  the  turkey."  The 
houses  generally  have  an  entrance 
porch,  el  Zctguan  (Arabiod  sahan), 
which  leads  to  the  cancel^  or  open- 
worked  iron  gate;  the  interiors  are 
built  with  an  open  square  courtyard, 
paUo^  on  each  side  of  which  are  corre- 
dores  supported  by  marble  pillars ;  a 
fiiente  or  fountain  plays  in  the  middle  j 
this  court  is  covered  over  in  summer 
with  an  awning,  velo,  toldo,  and  be- 
comes the  drawing-room  of  the  in- 
mates, who,  during  the  summer,  oc- 
cupy the  cool  ground-floor,  and  migrate 
to  the  warmer  upper  one  in  winter. 
These  houses  are  rich  in  Moorish 
earthenware  tilings,  which  are  still 
called  azulejos,  jlhis  word,  like  azul, 
is  derived  from  the  Arabic,  but  from  a 
different  root.  The  latter  is  derived 
from  lazurad^  the  lapis  lazuli;  the 
former  from  Zuleija^  Zuleichy  a  var- 
nished tile.  Lazurad,  indeed,  strictly 
speaking,  was  borrowed  from  the  Per- 
sian; the  Arabic  word  blue  being 
azrag  usruk,  is  blue  black,  whence  our 
BUie  Beard;  the  feminine  is  zv/rka, 
whence  th^  Spanish  zarco^  which  is 
only  applied  to  light  blue  eyes.  Most 
names  of  colours  in  the  Spanish  are 
derived  from  Arabic  words,  such  as 
Alba^alde,  Carmen,  Gualdo,  Azultur- 
qui,  MuanOy  Alazan.  The  Moor  was  the 
real  chemist  and  decorator,  from  whom 
the  rude  Gk>tho-Spaniard  learned  his 
arts  and  the  words  to  express  them. 
The  use  of  the  Azulejo  is  very  ancient 
and  Oriental.  The  sapphire  and  blue 
were  always  the  fa,vourite  tints  (Exod. 
xxiv.  10 ;  Isa.  liv.  11).  The  substance 
is  composed  of  a  red  clay,  the  surface 
of  which  is  highly  glazed  in  enamelled 
colours.  The  material  is  cool,  clean, 
and  no  vermin  can  lodge  in  it.  The 
Moors  formed  with  it  most  ingenious 


harlequinades,  combining  colour  and 
pattern.  These  enamelled  tiles,  un- 
doubtedly, were  the  types  of  the  Ma- 
jolica of  Italy,  which  passed  from 
Valencia  to  Majorca  (Majolica),  and 
thence  to  Pisa  and  Pesaro. 

Tlie  best  Aztdejo  specimens  in  Se- 
ville, are  the  Dados  in  the  Patio  of  the 
Alcazar,  of  which  some  are  Moorish, 
others  are  of  the  timeof  Don  Pedro,  while 
those  in  the  chapel  were  made  in  1504. 
Next  in  date  comes  the  most  curious 
portal  oiLasMonjas  de  Sa.  Paida;  then 
the  dados  in  the  Casa  JPHatos,  and  after 
that  the  summer-house  in  the  Alcazar 
garden,  1546 ;  of  the  same  period  are 
the  Berruguete  dados  in  the  Alcazar 
library.  Those  at  San  Augustin  were 
designed  in  1611,  when  yellows  were 
all  the  fashion  ;  soon  after  the  custom 
of  representing  monks  and  sacred  sub- 
jects became  very  prevalent.  See,  for 
examples,  the  facade  of  the  church  to 
the  rt.  outside  the  Puerta  del  Fopolo, 
and  those  in  blue  at  the  Caridad,  after 
designs  of  Murillo. 

More  than  half  Seville  is  Moorish, 
but  we  shall  only  select  the  cream ; 
and  first,  visit  the  cathedral  tower, 
the  GIBALDA,  so  called  from  the 
vane,  que  ffira,  which  turns  round. 
Of  this  beautiful  belfry,  and  unique 
in  Europe,  much  error  has  been  dis- 
seminated. It  was  built  in  1196  by 
Abu  Jusuf  Yacub,  who  added  it  to  the 
mosque  which  his  illustrious  father, 
of  the  same  name,  had  erected.  Ac- 
cording to  Zufdga  (i.  3),  the  founda- 
tions were  composed  of  destroyed  Ro- 
man and  Christian  statuary :  the 
Moors  attached  such  veneration  to  this 
Mueddin  tower,  that  before  the  capitu- 
lation they  wished  to  destroy  it,  but 
were  prevented  by  the  threat  of  Alonso 
el  Sabio  of  sacking  the  city  if  they  did. 

"  Abu  Jusuf  Yacub  was  the  great 
builder  of  his  age  (See  also  Oonde,  ch. 
49)  ;  he  caused  a  bridge  of  boats  to  be 
thrown  across  the  G-uadalquivir  on  the 
11th  of  October,  A.D.  1171.  He  bmlt 
also  a  portion  of  the  exterior  walls, 
and  erected  wharfs  along  the  banks  of 
the  river.  He  repaired  the  Roman 
aqueduct,  now  known  as  the  Canos  d' 


174 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^THE  GIRALDA. 


Sect.  II. 


Carmona,  He  raised  the  great  Mosque 
of  Seville,  which  was  similar  in  design 
and  execution  to  the  celebrated  Mez- 
quita  at  Cordova  i  begun  in  Oct.,  a.d. 
1171,  it  was  completed  by  his  son  and 
successor,  Abil  Yusuf  Yakub,  who,  in 
the  year  of  the  Hejira,  593  (a.d.  1196), 
added  the  tower,  the  work  of  J^ber, 
whom  the  Spanish  authors  call  Gever, 
and  who,  firom  the  coincidence  of  his 
name,  has  been  reputed,  though  most 
erroneously,  to  have  been  the  inventor 
of  algebra.*  This  tower,  Uke  the  koot- 
sahea  of  Morocco,  and  the  smaller  and 
unfinished  one  of  Babdt,  also  the  works 
of  the  same  architect,  was,  probably, 
erected  for  the  double  purpose  of  call- 
ing the  faithful  to  prayer,  and  for  as- 
tronomical observations.  On  the  sum- 
mit were  placed  four  brazen  balls  (Man- 
zanaSi  apples),  so  large,  we  are  in- 
formed, that,  in  order  to  get  them  into 
the  building,  it  was  necessary  to  remove 
the  key-stone  of  a  door,  called  *The 
Grate  of  the  Muezzins,'  leading  from  the 
mosque  to  the  interior  of  the  tower : 
that  the  iron  bar  which  supported  them 
weighed  about  ten  cwt.,  and  that  the 
whole  was  cast  by  a  celebrated  alche- 
mist, a  native  of  Sicily,  named  Abii 
Leyth,  at  the  cost  of  50,000^.  sterling. 
And  it  is  a  curious  fact,  showing  the  mi- 
nute accuracy  of  the  writer  from  whom 
we  quote  these  particulars,  that  when, 
during  the  earthquake  in  1395,  157 
jrears  after  the  overthrow  of  the  Moor- 
ish power,  these  balls,  together  with 
the  iron  support,  were  thrown  down, 
the  latter  was  weighed,  and  the  weight, 
as  given  by  one  of  the  historians  of  Se- 
ville, is  exactly  the  same  as  that  stated 
by  the  Mohammedan  writer."  Thus 
much  our  accurate  friend  Ghiyangos, 
who  here,  and  for  the  first  time,  has 
cleared  away  the  slough  of  errors  in 
which  many  have  been  engulphed,  and 
threatens  all  those  who  copy  what  they 
find  written  in  bad  Spanish  and  worse 
foreign  guides. 

To  build  towers  was  the  fashion  of 

*  Algebra  is  simply  a  contraction  of  the  Ara- 
bic phrase  AZ-Je&re,  condensation,  contraction,  in 
•contradistinction  to  Al  Mok'abalah,  comparison, 
confrontation. 


the  period.  Thus  the  Asinelli  tower 
of  Bologna,  371  feet  high,  was  raised 
in  1109,  and  that  of  St,  Mark,  at  Ve- 
nice, 350  feet  high,  in  1148.. 

lie  original  Moorish  tower  was  only 
250  ft.  high,  the  additional  100  being 
the  rich  filigree  belfry,  was  most  hap- 
pily added,  in  1568,  by  Fernando  Buiz, 
and  is  elegant  and  attractive  beyond 
description.  It  is  girdled  with  a  motto 
from  the  Proverbs  (xviii.  10)  ;  Nomen 
Domini  fortissima  turris.  On  grand 
festivals  it  is  lighted  up  at  night,  and 
then  seems  to  hang  Uke  a  brilliant 
chandeUer  from  the  dark  vault  of 
heaven.  The  pretty  form  and  idea  was 
taken  from  the  silver  Custodias  of  the 
period.  This  "  star-y-pointing  tower  '* 
forms  the  emphatic  feature  of  Seville  j 
seen  from  afar  it  rises  like  the  mast  of 
a  mighty  ship.  It  is  a  square  of  50  ft. 
The  Moorish  ajarctcas^  or  sunk  pat- 
terns, difier  on  each  side.  Observe 
the  elegant  intersecting  arches,  so  com- 
mon in  the  Norman-Saracenic  of  Apu- 
lia. The  upper  niches  were  painted  in 
fresco  by  Luis  de  Vargas,  1538-58; 
but  the  work  is  almost  obUterated, 
while  the  subjects  lower  down  have 
been  repainted  and  spoilt.  The  ascent 
is  by  easy  ramps.  The  panorama  is 
superb,  but  the  clock,  made  by  a  Fran- 
ciscan monk,  one  Jose  Cordero,  1764, 
is  here  considered  the  grandest  marvel : 
it  replaced  the  first  ever  put  up  in  Spain 
A.  D.  1400.  The  pinnacle  is  crowned 
with  Ml  GUrandillOi  a  female  figure  in 
bronze  of  La  Fe,  The  Faith,  a  some- 
what strange  choice  of  a  vane  blown 
about  with  every  wind  (of  doctrine),  and 
of  a  sex  and  character  for  what  should 
never  vary  or  be  fickle,*  not,  perhaps, 
ill  chosen  by  a  church  which  veers  as 
best  suits  its  own  interest,  twisting  the 
scriptures  at  its  will ;  and,  as  Dryden 
says — 

"  Such  airy  faith  will  no  foundation  find. 
The  words  a  weathercock  to  every  wind." 

The  figure  is  truly  Italian,  and  was 
cast  in  1568  by  Bartolome  Morel.   Al- 

*  The  Pagan  Spaniard  Seneca  may  be  quoted. 

'«  Veoto  quid  levius  ?     PulmeD— quid  rulmrne  ?    Fama. 
Quid  Fbit:&  ?    Mulier— quid  Muliere  ?— othil.** 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — THE  GUIALDA. 


175 


though  14  fib.  high,  and  weighing  2800 
lbs.,  it  tuma  with  the  slightest  breeze.  It 
bears  the  LabcM-o,  or  banner  of  Constan- 
t  ine.  This  belfry  is  the  home  of  a  colony 
of  the  twittering,  careering  hawk,  the 
Falco  Hnunculoides,  The  first  Christian 
knight  who  ascended  the  Giralda  after 
the  conquest  was  Lorenzo  Poro  (Law- 
rence Poore),  a  Scotchman.  His  de- 
scendant, the  Marques  de  Motilla,  still 
owns  the  ancestral  house  in  the  Oalle 
de  la  Cuna.  A  Scotch  herald  will  do 
well  to  look  at  the  coats  of  arms  in  the 
Patio. 

The  Giralda  was  the  great  tower 
from  whence  the  mueddin  summoned 
the  faithful  to  prayers  ;  and  here  still 
hang  his  substitutes,  the  bells,  for  they 
are  almost  treated  as  persons,  being  all 
duly  baptized,  before  suspended,  with  a 
peculiar  oil,  which  is  consecrated  ex- 
pressly during  the  holy  week,  and  they 
are  christened  after  saints.  The  largest 
is  called  Scmta  Maria^  or  La  Qorda. 
When  Spanish  campanas  are  rung,  the 
performance  is  called  a  repique,  which 
is  totally  unlike  our  sweet  village  bells, 
or  impressiye  cathedral  peal.  In  no 
country  was  the  original  intention  of 
bells,  per  cctcciare  il  diabolOf  to  scare 
away  the  devil,  more  piously  fulfilled 
than  in  the  Peninsula :  all  are  doleful, 
from  the  dull  tinkle  of  the  muleteer^s 
cencerro,  to  the  passing  toll  of  the 
steeple.  There  is  no  attempt  at  me- 
lody in  their  repiqne,  no  chime,  no 
triple  bob  majors.  The  music  is  de- 
void alike  of  ringer  science,  rural  rus- 
tic melody,  or  the  solenm  association  of 
sounds,  the  poetry  of  the  steeple,  the 
"  nighest  bordering  on  heaven."  The 
campanas  are  headed  with  cross  beams 
of  wood,  almost  of  the  same  weight  as 
the  bells  themselves,  and  are  pulled  at 
until  they  keep  turning  round  and 
round,  head  over  heels,  except  when 
they  are  very  large  ;  then  the  clapper 
is  agitated  by  a  rope,  a  golpe  de  badajo. 
Any  orchestral  discipline  and  regularity 
is  not  a  thing  of  Oriental  Spain;  the 
bells  are  all  pulled  their  own  way,  like 
a  company  of  guenlleros,  or  a  Dutch 
concert,  where  each  performer  plays 
his  own  tune.    Each  bell,  be  it  said, 


is  struck  singly  for  its  special  pur- 
poses :  La  G-orda,  for  instance,  at  the 
Ave  Maria.  A  solemn  peal  is  called 
clamor  de  campanas;  and  a  requiem 
for  a  dead  pope  or  king,  a  tocando  d 
muerto. 

The  Giralda  is  under  the  especial 
patronage  of  the  two  DivcB^  the  Santas 
Justina  y  Bufina,  who  are  much  revered 
at  Seville,  and  not  at  all  anywhere  else. 
In  a  thimderstorm,  1 504,  they  scared  the 
devil,  who  unloosed  the  winds  to  fight 
against  this  church  :  this,  their  stand- 
ing miracle,  is  the  one  so  often  carved, 
and  painted  by  Murillo  and  others: 
and,  due  proportions  considered,  these 
yoimg  ladies  must  have  been  at  least 
500  ft.  high,  and  a  tolerable  match  for 
the  father  of  all  lies.  The  Boyal  Aca- 
demy of  Seville,  however,  published  in 
1795  (!)  a  learned  dissertation  to  prove 
the  authenticity  of  this  miracle.  (! !) 
No  wonder,  therefore,  in  July,  1843, 
whenEspartero  bombarded  Seville,  that 
the  people  believed  that  the  Giralda  was 
still  encompassed  by  invisible  angels, 
headed  by  these  Brobdignac  tutekrs, 
who  turned  aside  every  shot.  These 
ladies  were  the  daughters  of  a  potter  in 
Triana,  a  low  suburb,  in  which  coarse 
earthenware  is  still  made.  Morales 
has  written  their  biography  in  8vo., 
Perpinan,  1598  ;  and  Florez,  Esp.  Sag., 
ix.  108,  375,  gives  the  whole  legend. 
In  the  year  287  these  gentlewomen  in- 
sulted the  paso  of  Venus  Salambo,  and 
were  put  to  death.  Now-a-days  the  Vir- 
gen  de  los  Dolores  (Ceres  Ax^**»,  of  grief, 
as  lamenting  the  loss  of  her  cluld  Pro- 
serpine) has  superseded  that  idol ;  and 
were  any  of  the  modem  potteresses  of 
Triana,  or  tract-distributing  Protest- 
ant spinsters,  to  insult  the  sagrada 
imagen  of  the  Virgin  in  the  pasos  of 
the  Semana  Santa,  they  would  run  a 
better  chance  of  being  sacrificed  by 
the  mariolatrous  Sevillanos  than  made 
saintesses. 

Of  the  other  Moorish  minaret  or 
mueddin  towers,  observe  those  of  San 
Marcos,  Santa  Marina,  Santa  Catalina> 
and  Omnium  Sanctorum.  That  of  San 
Pedro  has  been  modernized. 

Below  the  Giralda  is  the  Moorish 


176 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — PATIO  DE  LOS  N  ARAN  JOS.  Sect.  II. 


Patio  de  los  Naranjos,  the  court  of 
orange  trees,  with  the  original  fountain, 
at  which  the  cleanly  Moslem  once 
"  performed "  what  polite  writers  call 
"  his  ablutions,"  so  hateful  to  the  ortho- 
dox Spaniard.  Only  two  sides  of  "  this 
court  of  the  house  of  the  Lord,"  tliis 
rtfAtv»f,  or  "grove"  remain.  Enter  it 
at  the  N.  by  the  rich  Puerta  del  Per- 
don,  which  was  modernized  in  1519 
by  Bartolom^  Lopez.  Observe  the 
Moorish  arch  and  original  bronze 
doors,  but  the  belfiy  is  modem.  The 
terra  cotta  statues  are  by  Miguel  Flo- 
rentin,  1519-22.  The  "Saviour  bear- 
ing his  Cross"  «>«*  by  Luis  de  Vargas, 
for  it  is  ruined  by  repainting.  This 
subject,  the  Via  Orucis,  the  Via  Do- 
lorosa of  the  Italians,  is  conmionly 
called  in  Spain  la  calle  de  Amargwra, 
the  street  of  bitterness,  from  the  agony 
endured  by  the  Bedeemer. 

"  The  path  of  $orrow,  and  that  path  alone 
Leads  to  the  place  where  sorrow  is  unknown." 

This  door  suffered  much,  Aug.  7, 1839. 
Entering  to  the  r.  is  the  sagrario,  or 
parish  church,  and  in  front  the  Gothic 
pile,  and  the  Giralda  rising  like  a  mast 
of  the  nave.  To  the  L  is  a  stone  pul- 
pit, where  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  and 
other  instigators  of  autos  de  fe,  have 
preached  (see  the  inscription).  In  the 
1.  comer  a  staircase  leads  to  the  chap- 
ter library.  La  Columbina,  so  called 
because  left  to  the  canons  and  book- 
worms by  Fernando,  the  son  of  Colum- 
bus. It  was  then,  perhaps,  ihe  finest 
in  Europe,  and  destined  by  him  to  be  a 
nucleus — a  future  Bodleian,  but  the 
chapter  grossly  neglected  their  trusts, 
although  largely  endowed.  About  60 
years  ago  the  tine€B  et  hlatta  were 
dusted  out,  and  what  they  had  not 
destroyed,  re-arranged.  It  still  contains 
about  18,000  volumes ;  among  them  in- 
quire for  a  damaged  MS.  of  the  foimder's 
travels,  and  for  those  books  which  con- 
tain notes  written  by  the  great  Columbus 
himself,  e.  g.  in  a  Tractatus  de  Imagine 
Mundi,  Petri  de  Aliaco,  his  cabin  com- 
panion during  his  eventful  voyage ;  also 
look  at  the  MS.  tract  drawn  up  by  him 
'^Hen  in  prison,  to  satisfy  the  Inqui- 


sition and  prove  that  his  discovery  of 
the  New  World  was  predicted  in  the 
Scriptures.  The  fine  set  of  the  works 
of  Handel  were  given  by  Lord  Wel- 
lesley,  whose  recreation  (w<M^hy  son 
of  Lord  Momington,  a  musical  sire) 
was  listening  to  the  high  mass  in 
the  cathedral.  Above  the  book-shelves 
are  hung  portraits  of  archbishops, 
and  the  pictures  themselves  mark  the 
rise  and  decline  of  church  power. 
The  older,  the  Tello,  Albomoz,  Luna, 
Toledo,  Fonseca,  and  Mendoza,  are 
men  of  master  mind,  who  bore  their 
great  commissions  in  their  looks ;  the 
latter,  in  their  blue  and  white  ribands 
and  periwigs,  are  mere  stall-fed  cour- 
tiers, or  boudoir-fi^quenting  Abb^s. 
The  "cretinised"  Bourbon  Cardinal 
Luis  is  the  climax  of  the  imbecile.  Thus 
the  church  has  degenerated  with  the 
state,  art,  and  country.  Observe  also  a 
portrait  of  Fr"'  Bonifaz,  a  physician,  by 
Al°'  Cano ;  and  a  San  Fernando  by 
Murillo,  not  very  fine.  Inquire  for  the 
sword  of  the  great  Count  Fernando 
Gronzalez,  and  used  by  tlie  hero  of 
Seville's  conquest,  Garci  Perez  de  Var- 
gas, in  cutting  Moorish  throats,  as  some 
verses  shown  with  it  detail ;  read  them. 
The  reader  of  Don  Quixote  and  Spanish 
ballads  will  of  course  remember  I>on 
Diego  el  Mcuihuca,  the  pounder,  so 
calledfrom hammering  down  the  Moors. 
This,  the  Oriental  title  of  Judas  Mac- 
cabffius,  was  also  given  to  Charles 
Martel.  By  this  hammer,  who  at  Tours 
crushed  the  crescent,  Europe  was  saved 
to  be  Christian  instead  of  Mahomedan ; 
and  types  of  the  chivalrous  and  of  in- 
dividual personal  prowess  are  dear  to 
Spaniards  and  Asiatics. 

On  the  staircase  observe  the  tomb  of 
Inigo  Mendoza,  1497 ;  and  in  the 
Cuarto  de  los  Subsidios,  a  Piet^  by 
Juan  Nuiiez,  one  of  the  earliest  of  Se- 
villian  painters:  opposite  the  Puerta 
del  Perdon,  in  the  Sala  de  la  Herman' 
dad  del  Santisimo,  is  a  "  Dispute  of  the 
Sacrament,"  by  Herrera  el  Mozo  (the 
hermoso,  "  the  beautiful  one "  of  Mr. 
Inglis ! )  ;  it  is  affected  and  indistinct. 
The  others  are  by  Arteaga  :  observe  a 
small  in&nt  Saviour,  by  Montanes. 


Anddluda, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^THE  LONJA. 


177 


A  dark  gate,  where  a  horseshoe  of  the 
old  mosque  remains,  leads  into  the  in- 
terior ;  here  hangs  what  was  the  croco- 
dile, or  el  Lagarto  (whence  our  term 
alligator),  sent  to  Alonso  el  Sahio,  in 
1260,  from  the  Soltan  of  Egypt,  who 
requested  the  hand  of  his  da-ughter: 
the  Infanta  declined  a  suitor  whose 
first  present  scarcely  indicated  the 
affectionate.  Here  are  buried  some  of 
lo8  oonquistadoreSf  the  conquerors  of 
Seville,  e.  g.,  Pedro  del  Acero,  1265. 

Before  entering  the  cathedral,  walk 
round  the  outside,  which,  with  the  ad- 
joining buildings,  offers  a  most  interest- 
ing epitome  of  the  rise,  progress,  and 
decline  of  Spanish  church  architecture : 
here  are  specimens  of  every  style,  from 
the  Moorish  down  to  the  modem  and 
academical ;  commence  at  the  N.  side : 
observe  the  soHd  tc^ia,  Moorish  walls, 
the  square  buttresses,  the  bearded  or 
flame-fringed  battlements.  The  ele- 
vated steps  are  called  Las  Gfradcu,  the 
old  English  "grees,"  degrees.  The 
truncated  pillars  belonged  to  the 
mosque,  and,  previously^  to  Roman 
temples.  This  terrace  was  long  the 
exchange  of  Seville.  Here,  according 
to  Navagiero  (Viaggio  13),  the  mer- 
chants lounged,  tutto  U  giorno,  on  this 
il  piU  bel  ridutto  de  Seviglia;  so  the 
idlers  and  money-changers,  from  re- 
sorting to  the  cathedral  of  old  London, 
were  called  "  St.  Paul's  Walkers;" 

Those  who  wish  to  see  the  outside  of 
the  cathedral  before  examining  the  in^ 
side,  will  turn  to  the  E.,  to  the  Arch- 
hishop^s  Palace,  a  Churrigueresquepile, 
built  in  1697.  l^e  staircase  is  hand- 
some; the  curious  clerical  cell.  La  Par- 
ra,  in  which  peccant  priests  once  were 
imprisoned,  deserves  notioe :  otherwise 
the  interior  contains  little  worth  men- 
tion, being  meagrely  furnished.  Here 
Soult,  "Plunder-Master-General"  of 
the  French,  resided,  when  the  walls 
were  adorned  with  his  precious  collec- 
tion of  Spanish  pictures ;  fortimately 
he  could  not  "remove"  the  Giralda. 
It  was  on  the  plaza  opposite  that  the 
cloaked  patriot  Spanwrds  watched 
those  of  their  Afrancesado  countrymen 
who  frequented  ihs  foreigners^  ooimcils 


and  feasts,  and  destined  them  to  the 
knife-stab.  Some  French  officers  one 
day  were  admiring  the  Giralda,  when  a 
majo  repUed,  "^  con  todo  eso,  no  se 
hizo  en  Paris"  and  yet  it  was  not 
made  at  Paris ;  and  fortunately,  from 
its  size,  it  could  not  be  "conveyed" 
away  by  the  modem  Verres. 

Passing  onward  to  the  1.  rise  the 
Moorish  walls  of  the  Alcazar,  while  to 
the  rt.  is  the  semicircular  exterior  of 
the  chapel  of  San  Fernando,  adorned 
in  the  heraldic  Berruguete  style  of 
Charles  V.j  next  comes  the  Contaduria, 
or  chapter  counting-house,  pilastered 
in  the  plateresque  balustraded  taste, 
above  which  soars  the  sombre  Gothic. 
The  S.  entrance  of  the  transept  is  un- 
finished ;  in  front  is  the  noble  Lonja, 
caea  longa,  the  exchange,  the  long 
room.  This,  although  somewhat  low, 
is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  skill  of  Her* 
rera,  by  whom  it  was  designed.  For- 
merly, the  bill-brokers  and  gossipers 
desecrated  the  cathedral,  until  the 
Archbishop,  Christobal  de  Bojas,  in 
1572  (the  year  after  Gresham  had 
removed  our  money-changers  fr^m  St, 
Paul's  by  providing  them  with  the 
Boyal  Exchange  of  London),  petitioned 
PhiHp  II.  to  follow  this  example,  even 
of  heretics,  and  erect  a  suitable  casa 
de  contrataeion,  or  houise  of  contracts, 
for  the  growing  commerce  of  Seville. 
But  trusts  in  it  were  given  to  the  un* 
trusty,  and  regulations  frumed  which 
strangle  commerce,  in  order  to  favour 
the  smuggler  and  the  fraudul^it.  After 
infinite  difficulties  Juan  de  Herrera  con- 
cluded^he  edifice  in  13  years,  which  was 
opened  for  business  Aug,  14,  1598, 
Juan  de  Minjares  was  employed  in 
the  construction.  It  is  an  isolated 
quadrangle,  each  side  being  some 
200  ft.  wide  by  63  ft.  high  to  the  ante 
pecho.  The  stone  came  from  the  quar- 
ries of  Martellila,  near  Xerez.  The 
pilasters  and  windows  are  not  pleasing, 
but  the  Doric  and  Ionic  Patio  is  mag- 
nificent :  ascending  a  marble  staircase 
with  modem  jasper  ornaments  and  an 
altarito  of  bad  taste,  to  the  upper  floor, 
is  el  Archivo  de  las  Indias,  the  archives 

of  S.  America,  which  wore  arrang' 

T  a 


178 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILI.E — CATHEDRAL. 


Sect.  II. 


here  by  Charles  III.  in  1784;  the 
necessary  alterations  hare  ruined  the 
proportions  of  the  design  of  Herrera. 
The  papers  were  brought  together  from 
the  archiyes  of  SimancaSf  and  put  in 
order  by  Lara  and  Cean  Bermudez ; 
ithey  are  stowed  away  in  handsome 
mahogany  Doric  bookcases,  in  docketed 
bundles,  above  30,000  in"  number,  which 
have  never  been  fully  investigated. 
Official  difficulties  have  been  thrown 
in  the  way  of  the  "barbarian"  eye, 
eager  to  pry  into  the  things  and  secrets 
of  Spain.  Observe  the  marble  pave- 
ment ;  the  inner  corridor  is  modem 
and  paltry :  the  portrait  of  Colimibus 
is  quite  as  apocryphal,  and  by  no  means 
/so  fine,  as  that  by  Parmigianino  at 
Naples.  In  an  end  room  are  some  vile 
portraits  of  the  ungainly  Spanish  sove- 
ireigns  since  Carlos  IIL  The  lower 
story  is  appropriated  to  el  consuladOf 
the  tribunal  of  commerce.  The  Lonja 
was  scarcely  begun  before  real  com- 
merce departed ;  in  the  Plaza  S*°.  To- 
mas,  just  beyond,  No,  15,  is  said  to  be 
the  barber's  shop  of  the  immortal 
Figaro ;  every  traveller  who  has  music 
in  his  soul  should  be  shaved  there,  and 
if  any  of  his  molars — muelas — are  ex- 
tracted, let  him  especially  take  car©  of 
them,  as  according  to  an  old  Spanish 
prejudice,  at  the  Besurrection,  all  souls 
who  in  the  flesh  have  lost  their  wise 
teeth,  las  de  Juicio,  will  come  to  earth 
to  hunt  for  them. 

The  W.  or  grand  fa9ade  of  the  Ca- 
thedral remained  incomplete  until 
1827,  when  the  modem  and  inferior 
work  was  commenced.  Few  Spanish 
works  of  any  kind  are  ever  completed 
chiefly  from  want  of  funds.  Again  a 
fear  of  the  evil  eye  induced  the  leaving 
a  little  something  wanting;  and  the 
clergy,  by  keeping  portions  unfinished, 
always  had  an  excuse  for  begging  con- 
tributions from  the  pious  rich :  observe 
over  the  side  doors  the  quaint  figures 
in  terra  cotta,  by  Lope  Marin,  1548 ; 
the  contrast  of  expression  in  the  severe 
faces  of  the  males,  and  the  smirking 
females,  is  remarkable. 

The  enormous   over-ornate  pile  to 
'^e  l.  is  the  SagrariOi  or  parish-church 


annexed  to  the  cathedral,  in  which 
many  of  the  archbishops  are  buried. 
This  was  commenced  by  Miguel  de  Zu- 
marraga  in  1618,  when  architecture 
was  on  the  decline,  but  not  finished 
until  1662.  The  interior  consists  of  a 
single  nave,  the  size  of  which  has  often 
rendered  doubtful  the  security  of  the 
building.  The  roof,  by  Borja,  is  in  bad 
taste,  as  are  some  jasper  altars  by  the 
notorious  ChurrigueresqueBarbas.  The 
Retahlo  raised  by  him  was  so  absurd 
that  the  chapter  at  last  took  it  down 
and  replaced  it  by  a  grand  Eeredos, 
which  came  from  the  Franciscan  con- 
vent, and  is  known  in  books  of  art,  as 
that  of  the  CapUla  de  los  Vizcainos. 
The  sculptured  Sa.  Veronica  and  San 
Clemente  are  by  Pedro  D.  Comejo ;  the 
Virgin  with  Christ,  St.  John,  and  the 
Magdalen,  are  by  Pedro  Boldan,  and 
very  fine,  although  their  efiect  has  been 
much  injured  by  vile  tinsel  crowns  and 
glories ;  by  the  same  sculptor  is  theba«so 
relievo  of  the  entrance  into  Jerusalem. 
The  door  leading  into  the  cathedral  and 
adorned  with  statues  and  Corinthian 
pillars  is  by  Joseph  de  Arce,  1657. 

The  Cathedral  itself  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  finest  in  Spain :  the  solemn 
and  grandiose  or  "  Orandeza"  is  its  dis- 
tinctive quality,  as  elegance  is  of  Leon, 
strength  of  Santiago,  and  wealth  was 
of  Toledo.  The  site  is  that  of  the  suc- 
cessive temples  of  Astarte,  Salambo, 
Mahomet,  and  Maria.  The  original 
mosque,  on  whose  peculiar  oblong 
quadrilateral  form  it  is  built,  was 
erected  by  Abu  Yusuf  Jacob-Al-Man- 
stir,  1163-1178,  and  remained  unin- 
jured imtU  1480,  when  it  was  pulled 
down,  and  this  cathedral  commenced, 
which  was  opened  for  divine  service 
in  1519.  The  chapter  in  their  first 
conference  determined  to  "construct 
a  church  such  and  so  good  that 
it  never  should  have  its  equal.  Let 
posterity,  when  it  admires  it  complete, 
say  that  those  who  dared  to  devise 
such  a  work  must  have  been  mad." 
There  was  method  in  such  madness. 

The  name  of  the  architect  is  not 
known.  His  was  no  Deo  erexit  Vol- 
taire vanity,  he  worked,  with  no  thought 


Andcducia, 


EOUTE  7. — SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


179 


of  self,  for  the  sole  love  and  glory  of  Q-od. 
The  gigantic  expense  of  the  colossal 
cathedrals,  raised  in  days  of  poverty, 
contrasts  with  the  paltry  pew-pens 
contracted  for  in  this  age  of  capital ; 
and  how  different  are  the  benefactions! 
Now  the  gift  of  half  an  acre  from  one 
who  owns  half  a  county,  is  trumpeted 
forth  as  magnificent,  and  20^.  is  a  do- 
nation from  a  sovereign.  The  old 
Spaniards  trod  in  the  steps  of  the 
early  Komans,  and  reserved  their 
splendour  for  the  house  of  Q-od.  "  In 
suppliciis  Deorum  magnifici,  domi 
parci"  (Sail.  *B.  C  ix.).  The  sacred 
edifice  is  inside  and  outside  a  museum 
of  fine  art  .in  spite  of  foreign  and 
native  church  spoliations.  It  preserves 
the  Basilica  form  of  the  original  mosque, 
and  is  an  oblong  square,  some  431  ft. 
long  by  315  ft.  wide ;  it  has  7  aisles — 
the  two  lateral  are  railed  off  into 
chapels ;  the  centre  nave  is  magnifi- 
cent, the  height  amazing,  being  145  ft., 
while  the  cwthorio  or  transept  dome 
rises  171  ft. ;  the  offices  connected  with 
the  cathedral  and  chapter  are  built  out- 
side to  the  S. ;  t}ie  superb  pavement,  in 
black  and  white  chequered  marble,  was 
finished  in  1793,  and  cost  the  then 
enormous  sum  of  155,304  dollars. 

On  entering  the  cathedral,  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  centre  aisle,  lies  buried 
Pemando,  son  of  Colimibus,  or  Colony 
as  Spaniards  call  him,  and  one  who 
would  have  been  a  great  man  had  he 
been  son  of  a  less  great  fietther.  Observe 
the  quaint  caravels,  or  ships  of  the  na- 
vigator ;  how  small  their  size,  for  the 
mighty  journey  over  vasty  and  un- 
known seas !  No  Cunard  line  then  : 
and  the  motto  again  how  short,  but 
the  greatness  of  the  deed  suffices :  A 
CasHlla  y  a  Leon,  mundo  nuevo  did 
Colon;  read  also  the  touching  epitaph 
of  hia  son.  Many  carelees  writers 
describe  this  as  the  tomb  of  Columbus 
himself,  who  died  at  ValladoUd,  and 
whose  bones  at  last  rest  in  the  Havana, 
while  the  ever  inaccurate  Chateau- 
briand observes,  **  Christophe  Colomb, 
apr^s  avoir  decouvert  un  monde,  dort 
en  paix  h,  Seville,  dans  la  ChapeUe  des 
rois"  (Congr.  de  Ver.  45). 


Over  this  grave-stone,  during  the 
holy  week,  is  erected  the  monumento, 
an  enormous  wooden  temple  in  form 
of  a  Greek  cross,  in  which  the  host  is 
deposited.  It  was  designed  and  exe- 
cuted in  1544,  by  Antonio  Florentin, 
and  originally  consisted  only  of  three 
stories,  terminated  by  a  cross,  but  sub" 
sequent  additions  were  made  in  1624 
and  1688,  which  have  injured  the  effect,, 
and  rendered  the  whole  out  of  propor^ 
tion  for  the  cathedral,  being  some  130 
ft.  high.  However,  when  lighted  up 
during  the  night  of  Thursday  and  Gk)o4 
Friday,  after  the  host  is  enclosed  in 
the  silver  custodia,  the  effect  is  most 
marvellous,  and  there  are  few  things 
like  it  in  Spain  or  Italy. 

ThQ  cathedral,  is  lighted  by  93  win- 
dows; the  painted  ones  are  among 
the  finest  in  Spain:  the  earhest  are 
by  Mioer  Christobal  Aleman,  1504. 
Observe  the  "  Ascensions,"  the  "  Mag-> 
dalen,"  a  "  Lazarus,"  and  an  "  Entry 
into  Jerusalem,"  by  Amao  de  Flandres 
and  his  brother,  1525 ;  and  the  "  Ee- 
surrection,"  in  the  CapiUa  de  los  DonH 
ceUes,  by  Carlos  de  Bruges,  1558, 
These  artists  were  foreigners  and  Fle^ 
mings,  as  their  names  denote.  Ad- 
vancing up  the  aisle,  the  grandeur  of 
which  is  broken  up  by  the  coro,  observe 
its  trascoro,  a  rich  frontage  of  Doric 
work,  with  precious  marbles.  The 
picture  over  the  altar  is  extremely  an-» 
cient.  The  poor  "San  Fernando"  is 
by  Pacheco,  1633.  Two  doors  on  each 
side  lead  into  the  coros  the  4  has? 
reliefs  were  made  at  Ghenoa.  Above 
rise  the  enormous  organs :  the  palis^r 
does  of  pipes  and  cumbrous  ornaments 
are  churrigueresque  and  inappropriate, 
but  as  instruments  the  deep-swelling 
tones  are  magnificent ;  that  to  the  1., 
al  lado  de  la  JEpistola,  was  made  by 
Jorge  Bosch  in  1792 :  it  is  said  to  have 
5300  pipes  and  110  stops  more  than 
that  of  Haerlem. 

Before  entering  the  Coro  observe  its 
JRespaldos  and  the  cinque-cento  capill^ 
de  San  Agustin,  and  the  exquisite  Vir- 
gin carved  by  Juan  Martinez  Montanes, 
the  Phidias  of  SeviUe  (ob.  1640).  This 
sweet   and  dignified   model  was  th 


180 


EOUTE  7.  —SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


Sect.  II. 


1 


favourite  of  his  great  pupil  AX°'  Cano. 
The  tasteless  chapter  have  disfigured 
her  gentle  serious  dignity  with  vile 
tinsel  gewgaws,  repugnant  alike  to  good 
taste  as  to  the  lowly  character  of  the 
Lord's  handmaid ;  but  the  spirit  of  real 
devotion,  as  well  as  that  of  superstitious 
idolatry,  is  quite  irrespective  of  fine 
art:  the  most  hideous  fetish  or  the 
gaudiest  doll  is  more  worshiped  than 
the  finest  M.  Angelo,  just  as  a  true 
rehgious  feeling  purifies  the  coarse  and 
elevates  the  low,  and  generates  a  devo- 
tion altogether  distinct  from  mundane 
or  critical  admiration. 

The  eoro  is  open  to  the  high  altar, 
and  is  railed  off  by  a  fine  reja^  the 
work  of  3ancho  Munoz,  1519.  The 
Silleria  del  Coro  was  carved  by  Nuno 
Sanchez,  1475,  Dancart,  1479,  and 
Guillen,  1648.  Of  the  117  stalls  ob- 
serve the  archiepiscopal  throne  in  the 
centre :  the  elegant  facistol  is  by  Bar- 
tolome  Morel,  1570.  In  the  ewtre  los 
coros  is  put  up  during  Easter  week 
the  exquisite  bronze  candlestick,  25 
feet  high,  called  El  Tenebrario,  and 
wrought,  in  1562,  by  the  same  Morel : 
when  the  miserere  is  sung  in  the  holy 
week,  it  is  hghted  with  thirteen  candles: 
twelve  are  put  out  one  after  another; 
indicating  that  the  apostles  deserted 
Christ;  one  alone  of  white  wax  re- 
mains burning,  and  is  a  symbol  of  the 
Virgin,  true  to  the  last.  At  Easter 
also,  the  Cirio  pasqual  or  "  fount- 
candle,"  which  is  equal  to  a  large 
marble  pillar,  24  feet  high,  and  weigh* 
ing  7  or  8  cwt.  of  wax,  is  placed  to  the 
1.  of  the  high  altar.  Before  ascending 
the  steps  to  it  observe  the  two  pulpits 
and  the  reja principal^  made  in  1518  by 
the  lay  Dominican  Fr°'  de  Salamanca : 
those  at  the  side  are  by  Sancho  Munoz, 
1518,  and  are  first-rate  specimens. 
The  Gothic  Retahlo  of  the  high  altar, 
divided  into  44  compartments,  is  un- 
equalled in  Spain  in  size  and  elaborate 
details ;  designed  in  1482  by  Dancart, 
it  was  finished  in  1550 :  it  is  said  to 
be  made  of  aleroe  (see  Cordova),  with 
hich  the  plain  of  Tablada,  near  Se- 
\  was  covered  in  the  time  of  the 
^  (Morgado,  96).     The  carvings 


represent  sacred  subjects  from  the  New 
and  Old  Testament  and  the  life  of  the 
Virgin.  The  Alfonsine  tables,  which 
are  usually  placed  on  the  altar,  contain 
the  relics  collected  by  Alonso  el  Sabio. 
The  silver  work  and  frY)ntage  of  the 
altar,  as  also  the  atrilesy  are  the  work 
of  Fr°*  Alfaro.  The  Seapaldo  del  altar, 
of  richest  Gothic,  is  by  Gonzalo  de 
B>ojas,  1522;  the  terra-cotta  figures 
are  by  Miguel  Florentine,  1523.  Here 
in  a  small  room  are  some  curious  pic- 
tures by  Alejo  Fernandez,  in  the  half- 
gilded  Byzantine  style.  They  deserve 
notice,  as  Fernandez  was  the  master  of 
Castillo,  whose  pupils  were  Cano  and 
MuriUo.  Here  hung  the  two  superb 
Murillos— the  "  Buth  of  the  Virgin" 
and  the  "  Bepose  in  Egypt,"  which  on 
M.  Soult's  arrival  were  concealed  by  the 
chapter ;  a  traitor  informed  him,  and 
he  sent  to  beg  them  as  a  present,  hint- 
ing that  if  reliised  he  woiild  take  them 
by  force  (Toreno,  xi.).  The  worthy 
Marshal  one-day  showing  CoL  Gurwood 
his  "  collection  "  at  Paris,  stopped  op- 
posite a  Murillo,  and  said,  "  I  very 
much  value  that  specimen,  as  it  saved 
the  hves  of  two  estimable  persons." 
An  aide-de-camp  whispered,  "  He 
threatened  to  have  both  shot  on 
the  spot  unless  they  gave  up  the 
picture." 

Walking  round  the  lateral  chapels, 
and  beginning  at  the  door  of  the  Sa- 
grario,  is  that  de  los  Jacomes,  Observe 
a  Boelas,  retouched  by  one  Molina  and 
quite  spoilt.  In  the  next  chapel,  la 
de  la  Visitacion,  is  a  JEtetablo  painted 
by  Pedro  Marmolejo  de  Villegas,  bom 
at  Seville,  1520-1670,  and  an  imitator 
of  the  Florentine  school.  Observe  the 
portrait  of  Diego  de  Boldan,  who  gave 
this  Retahlo,  In  the  Ca.  de  N,S.  del 
Cofuuelo  is  a  "Holy  Family,"  the 
masterpiece  of  Alonso  Miguel  de  Tobar, 
the  best  perhaps  of  Murillo's  pupils, 
1678-1758.  Then,  passing  the  grand 
door,  is  the  precious  "Angel  de  la 
Guarda"  the  Genius  natale  Comesy  a 
guardian  angel  holding  a  sweet  child, 
by  Murillo :  next,  a  fine  "  Nativity,"  by 
Luis  de  Vargas,  who  may  be  called  the 
Pierino  del  Vaga  of  SeviUe,  1502-1569. 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVn^LE — CATHEDRAI.. 


181 


In  Ca.  de  San  Laureano,  observe  the 
tutelar  saint  walking  without  his  head : 
in  these  miracles,  c'est  le  premier  pas 
qui  coHte.  Many  Spanish  female  saints 
spoke  after  decapitation — the  ruUng 
passion  strong  after  death.  So  of  old 
Philomela's  tongue  vibrated  after  it 
was  cut  off  (Met.  vi.  556).  So  says 
Lane  (*  Mod.  Egyp.'  i.  300),  a  Moslem 
santon  spoke  without  any  head  at  all. 
In  Dante's  ^Inferno,'  xxviii.  121,  a 
gentleman  converses  holding  his  own 
head  in  his  hand  like  a  lantern.  Ari- 
osto's  Orrilo  looks  after  his  own  head 
when  cut  off,  and  very  sensibly  puts 
it  on  again  as  if  it  had  been  his  hat ; 
and  Isabella,  of  the  same  romancer, 
miurmurs  out  after  death  the  name  of 
her  loved  Zurbino. 

In  the  next  chapel  of  Santa  Ana  is  a 
JRetahlo  of  the  date  1504,  with  very 
curious  costumes,  painted  with  all  the 
defects  of  Juan  Valdes  Leal,  1630- 
1691,  the  rival  and  foe  of  Murillo.  A 
door  now  leads  to  the  archives,  which 
are  very  perfect,  as  the  chapter  sent 
them  to  Cadiz,  and  they  thus  escaped 
being  made  into  cartridges  by  M.  Soult. 
Adjoining  is  the  Mayordomia,  N.B. 
Examine  the  splendid  choral  books. 
Betuming  ta  the  cathedral  in  the  Ca. 
San  Josef,  observe  a  "Nativity,"  by 
¥r°'  Antolinez,  ob.  1676  ;  and  a  mar- 
riage of  the  Virgin  by  Valdes  Leal; 
and  in  the  next,  a  statue  of  San  Her- 
menegildo,  by  Montanes ;  and  the 
magnificent  tomb  of  the  Archb.  Juan 
de  Cervantes,  ob.  1453,  the  work  of 
Lorenzo  de  Mercandante.  In  the  Sa- 
cristia  de  la  Antigua  are  a  few  paint- 
ings by  Antolinez,  el  Griego,  Zurbaran, 
Morales,  and  some  flower-pieces,  by 
Arellano,  1614-1776.  The  chapel  it- 
self is  one  of  the  Sancta  Sanctorum. 
Observe  the  marble  Retahlo;  the  silver 
railing,  with  the  words  "  Ave  Maria ;" 
and  the  ancient  picture  painted  in  the 
style  of  Cimabue,  but  more  probably 
Byzantine :  the  sacristan  will  swear 
that  it  is  by  St.  Luke,  and  that  it  re- 
mained even  in  the  Moorish  mosque, 
and  of  itself  miraculously  introduced 
San  Ferdinand  into  Seville,  opening  the 
gates  and  shutting  the  sentinel's  eyes  ; 


justly  therefore  a  quarto  volume  was 
written  on  this  Palladium  of  the  city 
by  Antonio  de  SoUs,  Sevilla,  1739.  The 
fine  plaferesque  tomb  of  the  "  great " 
Car  dinal  Mendoza,  erected  in  1509,  is 
by  Miguel  Florentinj  and,  opposite, 
that  of  Archb.  Luis  de  Salcedo,  a  feeble 
imitation,  in  1741.  The  frescoes  were 
painted  by  Domingo  Martinez.  The 
marble  statues  in  the  Ketablo  are  by 
Pedro  Duque  Comejo. 

Now  advance  into  the  transept,  and 
look  up  at  the  Grothic  balconies  of  the 
galleries.  The  mahogany  clock  is  in 
the  worst  French  and  modem  taste. 
To  the  rt.  of  the  Puerta  de  la  Lonja  is 
the  celebrated  "ia  Generacion'*  of 
Luis  de  Vargas.  The  breast  of  Eve 
was  covered  by  the  prudish  chapter. 
This  truly  Italian  picture,  and  the 
painter's  masterpiece,  is  also  called 
"ia  Oamha,*^  from  the  leg  of  Adam — 
ex  pede  Herculem — which  Mateo  Perez 
de  Alesio  is  said  to  have  said  was 
worth  more  than  all  his  colossal  "  Saint 
Christopher,"  painted  opposite  in  fresco 
in  1584,  and  which  is  32  ft.  high.  San 
ChrkBtobal — for  thus  he  is  half  Chris- 
tianised and  Punicised — was  a  Saracen 
ferryman— ^or^^or  ipse  Charon,  He 
is  painted  at  the  entrance  of  most 
Spanish  cathedrals,  of  colossal  size, 
that  all  may  see  hun,  because  all  who 
look  on  him  cannot  come  on  that  day 
to  an  evil  death.*  He  carries  the  infant 
Saviour,  who  holds  the  globe  in  his 
hand,  across  a  river.  This  Baal  is  the 
Coelifer  Atlas,  Christoferos.  Few  Me- 
licarios  in  Spain  are  without  one  of  his 
teeth,  of  which  he  must  have  had  more 
than  a  crocodile  and  larger  than  an 
elephant,  for  which  some  heretic  na- 
tm'alists  have  taken  or  mistaken  the 
molars.  In  the  Ca.  de  la  Santa  Cruz 
is  a  "Descent,"  by  Pedro  Fernandez 
de  Guadalupe,  1527.  Next  enter  the 
most  eleg&nt  Sacristia  de  las  Calices, 
designed  in  1530  by  Diego  de  Biano. 
Observe  the  Crucifix  by  Montanes,  the 
Tintoret-like  portrait  of  Contreras, 
painted  in  1541  by  L.  de  Vargas  j  and 
the  nun  Dorothea,  by  Murillo,  finished 

•  Christophori  Sancti  speciem  qiiicunque  tuet' 
Ist&  nempe  die  non  morte  malft  morietur. 


182 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — CATH^RAL. 


Sect.  II. 


in  1674;  a  "  Saviour,"  by  Boelas  ;  and 
a  One  "St.  Peter,"  by  Herrera  el 
Viejo.  The  patronesses,  Santas  Ru- 
fina  and  Justina,  were  painted  in  1817 
by  Goya:  the  fit  models  for  this  David- 
like abomination  were  two  notorious 
frail  ladies  of  Madrid  named  Bamona 
and  Sabina.  The  picture  was  meant 
for  a  chapel,  but  was  banished  by  the 
prudent  bishop  into  this  Sacristia. 
Thus  of  old  the  mistresses  of  painters 
and  great  men  were  the  models  of  the 
pictures  of  Venus ;  particularly  Flora, 
the  beloved  of  Pompey ;  and  Campaspe, 
the  beloved  of  Alexander;  while  Phryne 
was  "the  model  of  both  Apelles  and 
Praxiteles  (Athaen.  xiii.  591).  AreUius 
(Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  xxxv.  10)  was  re- 
markable for  painting  goddesses  from 
improper  models. 

The  architecture  of  this  Sacristia  is 
in  the  transition  style,  when  the  Gk>thic 
was  givmg  place  to  the  G-reeco-Bomano 
and  plateresque.  Here  lie  some  of  the 
Conquistadores  de  Sevilla.  Observe  the 
marble  tables  and  pavement.  In  the 
next  chapel  are  four  tombs  of  armed 
knights  and  ladies.  Enter  the  ante-sala 
of  the  Sacristia  mayor ;  observe  the 
trunk-Uke  roof  and  the  cardinal  virtues 
in  niches.  In  the  Sacristia,  observe 
the  plateresque  carved  door,  and  the 
armarios^  or  plate-chests,  by  Pedro 
Duque  Comejo,  1677-1757,  pupil  of 
Koldan.  The  Sacristia  may  or  ^  the  tri- 
umph of  the  rich  plateresque,  was  built 
by  Diego  de  Biano,  1530.  The  dresses 
of  the  clergy  are  kept  in  new  presses, 
made  in  1819  by  order '  of  a  barbarian 
Canon,  named  Santos,  who  destroyed 
the  glorious  old  ones  of  Guillen,  1548, 
a  few  of  whose  Michael  Angelesque 
panels  are  let  into  the  modem  wood- 
work. Observe  the  colossal  silver  Cus- 
todia,  finished  in  1587,  by  Juan  d' Arfe, 
the  Cellini  of  Spain.  This  masterpiece 
was  unfortunately  "  beautified  and  re- 
paired" in  1668,  by  Juan  de  Segura, 
during  the  Immaculate  Conception 
mania,  who  placed  the  Virgin  in  the 
position  of  the  original  figure  of  Faith. 
The  inscription  is  by  the  painter-author 
Pacheco.       Ajiother    Custodia^  which 

'ighed  above  a  cwt.  of  pure  gold,  was 


melted  for  a  royal  doriative  in  1796 — a 
mild  term  for  compulsory  church  ap- 
propriation and  confiscation :  observe 
especially  the  exquisite  Tenehrario,  and 
the  two  full-length  Murillos,  painted  in 
a  bold  style  in  1655 ;  that  represent- 
ing San  Leandro  was  the  portrait  of 
Alonso  de  Herrera,  Apuntador  del 
Coro,  and  that  of  San  Isidoro  of  Juan 
Lopez  Talavan.  The  "  Descent "  from 
the  cross,  over  the  altco*,  is  by  Pedro 
Campana,  who,  bom  at  Brussels  in 
1503,  and  a  pupil  perhaps  of  Michael 
Angelo,  was  one  of  the  first  to  intro- 
duce the  Italian  style ;  and  this,  painted 
in  1548,  and  considered  by  some  his 
finest  work,  became  the  marvel  and 
model  of  Seville,  because  new  in  style 
to  their  eyes :  now  it  seems  somewhat 
dark  and  hard ;  but  such,  when  it  was 
first  exhibited,  was  its  life-Hke  awful 
character,  that  Pacheco  (Arte  57)  was 
afraid  to  remain  after  dusk  alone ;  and 
before  it  Murillo  used  to  stand,  watch- 
ing, as  he  said,  until  those  holy  men 
should  have  finished  taking  down  the 
Saviour,  and  before  this  picture  he  de- 
sired to  be  buried ;  it  then  decorated 
the  altar  of  his  parish  church,  JJa 
Santa  Cruz.  Soult's  vandals  levelled 
that  Holy  Cross  down  to  the  dust,  and 
cast  out  the  ashes  of  MurUlo  to  the 
winds ;  they  then  broke  the  picture 
into  five  pieces,  which  was  left  so,  until 
the  English  drove  them  out  of  Seville ; 
then  the  chapter  employed  Joachin  Cor- 
tes, who  was  occupied  for  three  months 
in  the  restoration. 

Underneath  it  are  kept  the  usual 
assortment  of  authentic  bones  and 
relics,  bits  of  the  cross,  crown  of  thorns, 
the  Virgin's  shift,  &c. :  observe  the 
identical  keys  presented  to  St.  Ferdi- 
nand when  Seville  smrendered:  that 
given  by  the  Jews  is  of  iron  gilt,  and  • 
the  letters  on  the  wards  represent  "  Me- 
lech  hammelakim  giphthohh  Melek  kol- 
hstaretz  gabo," — the  King  of  kings  will 
open,  the  king  of  all  the  earth  will 
enter;  translated  by  Spaniards  Dios 
ahrira  y  rey  entrard;  the  other  key 
of  silver  gUt  was  given  by  Axataf,  and 
is  inscribed  in  Arabic,  "May  Allah 
render  eternal  the  dominion  of  Islam  in 


Anddlucia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


183 


this  city ;"  these  indeed  are  real  reHcs. 
The  tesoro  or  treasury  hes  in  a  court  to 
the  rt.  It  has  been  sadly  thinned  by 
foreign  and  native  spoilers  ;  yet  there  is 
a  goodly  sideboard  of  church  plate  and 
some  very  fine  silver  oil  vases,  candle- 
sticks, &c. :  observe  the  tablets  called 
Las  AlfonsinaSf  studded  with  Marian 
reUcs,  and  a  fine  cross  made  in  15S0  by 
Fr°*  Merino  :  see  also  a  golden  incensct- 
rio,  and  a  cross  made  from  a  "nugget " 
of  the  new  world,  oflfered  by  Colimibus. 
The  Retdblo  of  the  Ca.  del  Mariscal 
contains  some  of  the  latest  and  finest 
works  of  Campana,  and  shows  how 
much  he  improved  after  seeing  the 
elegant  L.  de  Vargas.  Notice  also  an 
excellent  Purification  of  the  Virgin, 
and  some  portraits  of  the  founder's 
family.  In  the  Ante-CaMldo  are  some 
marble  pilasters,  statues,  and  medal- 
Uons  made  at  G^oa,  with  inscriptions 
by  Fr°'  Pacheco :  in  a  Uttle  court-yard 
is  an  inscribed  G-othic  stone  relating  to 
Bishop  Honoratus,  successor  to  San 
Isidoro,  A.D.  641. 

The  8ala  Capitular,  or  chapter- 
house, is  another  of  Biano's  exquisite 
plateresque  saloons,  and  easier  to  be 
described  with  the  pencil  than  pen, 
built  in  1530,  it  is  eUiptical,  50  ft.  long 
by  34  ft. :  observe  the  marble  pave- 
ment, worked  to  correspond  with  the 
elaborate  ceiUng.  The  beautiful  "  Con- 
cepcian"  is  by  Murillo;  "St.  Ferdi- 
nand "  is  by  Pacheco  j  the  "  Four  Vir- 
tues, with  Shields  and  Children,"  are 
by  Pablo  de  Cespedes,  the  learned 
painter-poet  of  "  Cordoba,"  1538, 1608, 
and  retouched  by  Murillo  in  1667. 
The  16  marble  medaUions  were  made 
at  Gtenoa ;  the  eight  ovals  between  the 
windows  are  painted  by  Murillo.  In  the 
Sala  Capitular  de  abajo  are  ftdl- length 
royal  portraits  from  Alonso  III.  down 
to  Charles  V.  Observe  the  cinque-cento 
cornice,  the  medaUions,  the  pavement 
with  the  No  Do  device  of  Seville.  Re- 
turning through  the  Ca.  del  Marisal,  to 
the  Contaduria  Mayor,  is  a  "  St.  Fer- 
dinand," by  Murillo,  a  "  Sacrifice  of 
Abraham,"  in  which  the  Isaac  is  evi- 
dently taken  from  one  of  the  sons  of 
the  Laocoon,  and  a  "  Bufina  and  Jus- 


tina,"  by  Pablo  de  Cespedes ;  here  are 
kept  the  chapter  accoimts. 

The  first  chapel  on  the  £.  end,  called 
de  la  "  Concepcion  grande^*  is  in  de- 
generate cinque-cento  :  here  lies  buried 
Oonzalo  Nufiez  de  Sepulveda,  who,  in 
1654,  richly  endowed  the  September 
"  Octave  "  in  honour  of  the  "  Immacu- 
late Concepcion."  The  ashes  of  the 
conquistadorea  of  Seville  were  carted 
out  to  make  room  for  this  benefactor. 
Observe  the  pictures  treating  of  that 
mystery ;  the  large  crucifix  has  been 
attributed  to  Alonso  Cano.  At  this 
Octave  and  at  Corpus,  the  Quiristers 
or  Seises  (formerly  they  were  six  in 
number)  dance  before  the  high  altar 
with  castanets  and  with  plumed  hats 
on  their  heads  :  dressed  as  pages  of  the 
time  of  Phihp  III.,  they  wear  red  and 
white  for  Corpus,  blue  and  white  for 
the  festivals  of  the  Virgin,  who,  bodily 
and  verily,  so  says  the  Sacristan,  ap- 
peared in  those  colours  to  Santa  Bri- 
gida.  These  dances  were  the  ancient 
EfitfjbsXttM,  the  grave-measured  minuet  i 
thus  David  praised  the  Lord  with  a 
song  and  the  dance.  These  must  not 
be  confoimded  with  the  Kd^^a|,  the  jig, 
and  those  jmotus  lonicos  oi  the  daugh- 
ter of  Herodias  ;  but  nothing  has  suf- 
fered more  degradation  than  the  dance. 

The  Capilla  Real  is  almost  a  diurch 
by  itself  with  its  regular  staff  of 
clergy.  Built  in  1541  by  Martin  de 
Gainza,  it  is  artistically  inferior  to  the 
saloons  of  Biano,  for  the  plateresque 
was  then  going  out  of  fashion ;  81  fk. 
long,  59  wide,  130  high,  it  is  entered  un- 
der a  lofty  arch.  The  statues  of  the 
apostles  and  evangehsts  were  sculp- 
tured by  Lorenzo  del  Vao  and  Campos 
in  1553,  from  designs  by  Campana. 
The  Reja  is  of  the  bad  period  of  Carlos 
III. :  here  are  the  tombs  of  Alonso  el 
Sabio  and  Queen  Beatrix,  and  medal- 
lions of  Garci  Perez  and  Diego  Perez 
de  Vargas.  The  Retahlo  by  Luis  Ortiz, 
1647,  is  in  vile  taste  :  over  the  altar  is 
placed  the  Virgen  de  los  Reyes,  a  mi- 
raculous image  given  to  St.  Ferdinand 
by  his  cousin  St.  Louis  of  France.  St. 
Ferdinand,  who  died  May  31,  1252- 
lies  before  it  stretched  out  in  a  si^ 


184 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — CATHEDRAL. 


Sect.  II. 


and  glazed  Uma,  made  in  1729 :  the 
body  nearly  perfect,  is  displayed  on 
May  30,  Aug.  22,  Not.  23,  and  none 
should  fan  to  attend  the  most  striking 
military  mass,  when  troops  are  marched 
in  and  the  colours  lowered  to  the  con- 
queror of  Seville :  observe  the  original 
sepulchre  of  the  king,  on  which  the 
Urna  is  placed,  with  epitaphs  in  Latin 
and  Spanish  to  the  rt.,  and  in  Hebrew 
and  Arabic  to  the  1.,  with  orles 
of  castles  and  lions ;  the  epitaphs 
were  composed  by  his  son,  Alonso  el 
Sabio.  Florez  has  published  a  quarto 
explication  of  them,  Eloffios  del  So. 
Sey,  Mad.  1754.  The  Banner  of  Spain 
and  the  sword  of  St.  Ferdinand  are 
kept  in  this  chapel,  the  sword  saved 
from  Soult  by  a  chaplain,  used  to  be 
taken  out  on  all  grand  war  expedi- 
tions ;  and  on  his  saint's  day  it  is  ex- 
hibited, and  a  sermon,  el  de  la  espada, 
is  preached,  in  which  its  virtues  are 
expounded.  In  this  chapel  also  is 
buried  the  gentle  and  beautiful  Maria 
de  FadiUa,  the  mistress  of  Fedro  el 
Cruel,  and  the  Minister  Florida  Blanca. 

The  Retdblo  in  the  Ca.  de  San  Pe- 
drOj  in  the  Herrera  style,  contains  pic- 
tures by  Ft«-  Zurbaran,  1598-1662: 
observe  the  lock  of  the  grating  "  Cer- 
rojo  de  la  Reja^^  made  by  Cordero, 
but  this  comer  of  the  cathedral  is  too 
dark  to  see  anything  well ;  in  the  north 
transept  is  a  charming  "Na.  Sa.  de 
Belem,"  or  a  delicious  "Virgin  and 
Child,"  by  Alonso  Cano.  In  the  Ca. 
de  San  Francisco  is  the  "Assumption 
of  the  Tutelar,"  one  of  the  best  works 
of  the  prestimptuous  Herrera  el  Mozo. 

The  window,  painted  in  1556,  is  re- 
markable. In  the  Ca.  de  Santiago  is 
a  picture  of  that  patron  of  the  Spains, 
riding  over  Moors,  with  miraculous 
energy,  by  Juan  de  las  Boelas  (1558- 
1625).  The  painted  window,  the  "  Con- 
version of  St.  Faul,"  1560,  is  fuU 
of  the  richest  reds  and  blues;  the 
"  San  Lorenzo"  is  by  Valdes.  Observe 
the  tomb  of  Archb.  Vargas,  ob.  1362, 
era  1400;  and  in  the  next  chapel, 
that  of  Baltazar  del  Rio,  Bishop  of 
Scalas,  1518,  a  friend  of  Leo  X.  The 

\  is  Italian  work  ;  the  last  chapel 


contains  the  Pila  or  font,  with  the  Gi- 
ralda  windows,  painted  in  1685.  Here 
is  the  large  and  much-admired  paint- 
ing, the  "  San  Antonio  "  of  Mimllo  ; 
the  infant  Saviour  attended  by  cherubs 
visits  the  kneeling  monk ;  unfortu- 
nately, in  1833,  it  was  cruelly  re- 
touched, and  banado,  or  daubed  over, 
by  Gutierrez,  an  operation  we  saw  per- 
formed and  vainly  protested  against. 
This  once  noble  work  was  painted  in 
1656  in  Murillo*s  best  period.  Mons. 
Viardot  (Etudes,  429)  and  the  stupid 
verger  tell  an  idle  tale  that  "  Our 
Duke"  coveted  the  picture,  and  oflfered 
to  cover  this  gigantic  canvas  with 
ounces  of  gold,  but  that  the  chapter 
declined.  "L'Angleterre  a  gard^  son 
or,  et  Seville  le  chef-d'oeuvre  de  son 
pantre — ^gloire  h  Seville."  Supposing 
that  this  were  his  chef-d'oeuvre,  which 
it  is  not,  and  supposing  the  Duke 
oflTered  his  cash,  which  he  did  not, 
surely  English  gold  is  no  worse  than 
French  iron.  It  is,  however,  quite 
common  in  Spain,  when  the  value  of 
anything  is  wished  to  be  enhanced,  to 
say,  "  An  EngUshman  bid  so  and  so 
for  it."  This  at  least  is  a  compliment 
to  our  honesty ;  toe  do  not  rob,  but  are 
willing  to  pay  for  what  we  have  the 
taste  to  admire.  No  offer  of  cash  by 
M.  Soult  is  ever  cited,  he  foimd  steel 
and  steahng  cheaper.  This  picture 
disappointed  Wilkie,  and,  to  our  mind, 
has  always  been  overrated :  but  as  it  is 
the  fashion  to  praise  it,  the  cuckoo  note 
is  repeated. 

This  cathedral  should  be  visited  at 
different  times  of  the  day  and  evening, 
in  order  to  fully  estimate  the  artistical 
changes  and  effects  of  light  and  shade. 
The  interior  is  somewhat  dark,  but  it 
is  a  gorgeous  gloom,  inspiring  a  reli- 
gious sentim^it,  chastening,  not  chill- 
ing, solemn,  not  sad.  The  contrast 
with  all  out  of  doors  is  striking ;  and, 
after  the  glare,  heat,  noise,  and  crowds, 
the  still,  subdued,  cool  quiet  soothes 
body  and  soul.  The  sun,  about  two 
o'clock,  falls  on  the  Holy  Rood  over  the 
Setablhy  and  produces  a  splendid  effect. 
Th6  cathedral  is  always  thronged,  not 
only  by  the  devout,  but  by  idlers,  beg- 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ALCAZAR. 


185 


gars,  imd  sinners.  The  sexes  are  not 
allowed  to  walk  about  or  talk  together ; 
the  ancient  SUentiaru,  in  the  form  of 
oeladoreSy  and  pe-rtiguerosy  beadles,  and 
vergers,  keep  guard,  and  papal  excom- 
munications are  suspended  in  ter- 
rorem;  nor  are  women  allowed  to 
enter  after  oracumes,  when  the  shades 
of  evening  come  on,  and  the  pretext  of 
"going  to  church"  reminds  the  scholar 
of  Ovid  (Art.  Am,  i.  8.  74,  and  iii. 
638),  who  teaches  women  to  make  the 
pretence  of  going  to  the  mass  of  Isis  an 
excuse  to  meet  their  lovers.  It  was 
not  prudent  even  to  ask  what  took 
place  before  her  Retdblo  (Am.  ii.  2, 
25).  Juvenal  (ii.  6, 487)  uses  the  strong 
expression,  Isiaces  Sacraria  JJancB ! 
And  .  the  cathedral  of  mariolatrous 
Seville  is  a  chosen  rendezvous  ;  lovers 
care  little  for  the  presence  of  the  Ima- 
genes  8agrada9 — they  are,  say  they,  Samr 
to8  muy  ccUladoSf  and  never  tell  tales. 

These  evils  are,  however,  easily 
avoided.  Not  so  another  nuisance, 
common  to  this  and  most  churches  in 
Spain,  the  beggar  tribe,  who,  like  mos- 
quitOB,  smell  the  blood  of  an  English- 
man ;  remember,  therefore,  the  specific 
phrase,  Perdona  Vmd.  por  JDios,  Her- 
mano  !  My  brother,  wiU  your  worship 
excuse  me,  for  Gk>d's  sake !  The  beggar 
bows — he  knows  that  all  further  appli- 
cation is  useless ;  the  effect  is  certain 
if  the  words  be  quietly  and  gravely 
pronounced. 

Now  visit  the  Alcazar ;  but  first  ob- 
serve a  singular  Moorish  skew-arch, 
in  a  narrow  street  leading  to  the 
Puerta  de  Xerez,  which  proves  that 
the  Moors  knew  its  use  at  least  eight 
centuries  ago.  The  Alcazctr  is  entered 
by  two  gates,  either  bv  that  de  las  Ban- 
deraSy  where  the  colours  are  hoisted 
when  the  king  is  residing,  or  by  that 
de  la  Monteria^  from  whence  he  sallied 
forth  to  the  chace.  The  grand  portal 
is  apparently  Moorish,  yet  it  was  built 
by  Don  Pedro  the  Cruel,  the  great 
restorer  of  this  palace.  At  this  period 
the  elaborate  Oriental  decorations  of 
the  Alhambra  were  just  completed  by 
Yusuf  I.;  and  Pedro,  who  was  fre- 
quently on  the  best   terms  with  the 


Moors  of  Gbanada,  desirous  of  adopt-, 
ing  that  style,  employed  Moorish 
workmen.  Observe  the  delicate  ara- 
besques, the  pillar-divided  windows, 
ajimezeSy  and  the  carved  soffit.  The 
quaint  Gothic  inscription  almost  looks 
like  Cufic ;  it  runs  thus  j  "  El  muy 
alto,  y  muy  noble,  y  muy  poderoso, 
y  conquistador  Don  Pedro,  por  la 
gracia  de  Dios,  Bey  de  Castilla  y  de 
Leon,  mandd  facer  estos  alcazares  y 
estas  facadas  que  fiie  hecho  en  la  era 
mil  quatro  cientos  y  dos,"  that  is,  a.p. 
1364. 

The  royal  residence — Alcasar — al- 
Kasr,  the  house  of  Csesar,  whose  nawe 
is  synonymous  with  majesty,  occupies 
the  site  of  that  of  the  Boman  prsetor ; 
it  was  rebuilt  in  the  10th  and  11th 
centuries,  by  Jalubi,  a  Toledan  archi- 
tect, for  Prince  Abdu-r-rahman  An- 
na'ssir  Lidin- Allah  [the  defender  of  the 
religion  of  Gk)d]. 

It  has  been  often  and  much  altered 
by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  and  Charles 
v.,  and  Frenchified  by  Philip  V.,  who 
subdivided  the  noble  soloons  with 
paltry  lath  and  plaster  tabique.  Don 
Pedro  began  by  repairing  the  whole  of 
the  western  side,  and  his  painted  ceil- 
ings still  remain,  as  the  badge  of  his 
Banda  evinces.  Isabella  erected  the 
pretty  chapel  up-stairs,  with  the  very 
interesting  Azulejo  ornaments.  Charl^ 
V.  was  here  married  to  Isabella  of  Por- 
tugal, and,  being  of  chiUy  habits,  put 
up  the  fire-places  in  the  second-floor 
to  the  E.  He  also  repaired  the  stucco 
lienzos  of  the  grand  patio.  Phihp  II. 
introduced  the  portraits  into  the  hall  of 
ambassadors ;  Philip  III.,  in  1610,  built 
the  armoury,  and  Philip  V.,  in  1733, 
raised  the  pillared  Apeadero :  here  he 
resided  in  morbid  seclusion  for  2  years, 
amusing  himself  with  religious  pen- 
ances and  fishing  in  his  pond.  The 
qficinas  over  the  baths  of  Padilla  were 
erected  by  Ferd.  VI.  This  Alcazar 
was  barbarously  whitewashed  in  1813, 
when  much  of  the  delicate  painting  and 
gilding  was  obliterated  j  considerable 
and  creditable  restorations  were  begun 
by  Arjona  in  1830,  and  carried  on  by 
the  Infemta  during  her  residence  here. 


186 


EOUTE  7.— SEVILLE — ^ALCAZAR. 


Sect.  II. 


On  entering,  the  columns  in  the 
vestibule  are  Roman,  with  G-othic 
capitals:  these  belonged  to  the  original 
palace.  Don  Pedro  brought  from  Va- 
lencia many  other  pillars  taken  out  of 
the  royal  Aragonese  residence,  which  he 
destroyed.  The  grand  Pa^*o  is  superb, 
70  ft.  by  54.  It  was  modernised  in 
1569.  The  stucco-work  is  by  Fr°* 
Martinez.  Many  of  the  doors,  ceilings, 
and  Azulejos  are  the  genuine  Moorish 
ones;  the  oldest  portion  fronts  the 
garden.  Visit  the  pretty  ^«pjpe<  Patio 
de  las  MuTieca^j  and  the  adjoining  sa- 
loons, which  have  been  restored.  The 
hail  of  ambassadors  has  a  glorious 
Media  naranja  roof:  but  the  Spanish 
balconies  and  royal  portraits  mar  the 
Moorish  character ;  the  baboon  Bour- 
bon heads,  royal  Cretins,  are  both  an 
insult  and  injury.  Here  the  contempt- 
ible Seville  Junta  sat  until  they  ran 
after  Ocana.  In  the  next  room  it  is 
said  that  Don  Pedro  caused  his  brother, 
El  Maestre  de  Santiago^  whom  he  had 
invited  as  a  guest,  to  be  murdered. 
Another  anecdote  of  this  Richard  III. 
of  Spain  deserves  mention.  Abu  Said, 
el  Bey  Bermejo^  who  had  usurped  the 
throne  of  Ismael  II.  of  Ghranada,  fled 
to  Seville  from  the  rightful  heir,  imder 
promise  of  safe  conduct  from  Pedro, 
who  received,  feasted,  and  then  put  his 
guest  to  death,  in  order  to  seize  his 
treasure  in  jewels,  under  circumstances 
of  inhospitable  and  mocking  cruelty ; 
(see  his  Chronica,  ch.  6).  Gkiyangos 
found,  in  an  Arabic  MS.  in  the  British 
Museum,  a  contemporary  account  of 
the  event.  Among  the  gems  is  specified 
"  three  huge  rubies,"  big  as  a  pigeon's 
egg  —  Imevo  de  Paloma.  One  was  a 
Koh-i-noor,  to  which  Pedro  attached 
such  value  that  he  specified  it  in  his 
will,  as  the  "  Balax  of  the  Red  King." 
{Balaxi  is  a  Persian  word  for  G-ranate, 
and  is  taken,  says  Ducange,  from  the 
name  of  a  province,  Balacia.  The  old 
English  term,  as  used  by  Dugdale,  was 
Ballace.)  This  particular  gem  was 
given  by  Pedro  to  our  Black  Prince 
after  the  victory  at  Navarete.  This  is 
the  "fair  ruby,  great  like  a  racket- 
'^'^U,"  which  Queen  EUzabeth  showed 


to  Mary  of  Scots'  ambassador,  Mel- 
ville, and  which  the  canny  chiel  wanted 
her  to  give  to  his  mistress,  and  is  the 
identical  gem  which  now  adorns  the 
royal  crown  of  England  in  the  Tower. 

Fail  not  to  visit  the  truly  Arabian 
suite  of  rooms  fronting  the  garden,  and 
then  ascend  to  the  second  story,  mo- 
demised  by  Charles  V. :  walk  out  on 
the  terrace  over  the  garden :  visit  Isa- 
bella's chapel,  which  lies  to  the  N.W. ; 
it  is  very  smaU,  15  ft.  by  12,  but  is 
covered  with  cinque-cento  Azulejo,  is 
quite  Peruginesque,  and  perhaps  is 
the  finest  Christian  specimen  oi  this 
material  in  Spain.  They  were  painted 
in  1504  by  Niculoso  Francisco,  an  Ita- 
lian.    See  inscription  on  a  label  to  1. 

Pass  next  along  a  corridor  to  the 
Cuarto  del  Principe.  This  truly  Al- 
hambraio  room  is  placed  over  the  en- 
trance vestibule.  In  a  long  saloon 
down-stairs  were  kept,  or  rather  were 
neglected,  in  heaps  on  the  floors,  those 
antiquities  which  chance  discovered 
while  a  road  was  making  at  Italica, 
and  which  were  not  reburied,  from  the 
accident  of  the  Alcaide  Fr°*  de  Bruna 
being  a  man  of  taste.  The  Alcazar  was 
also  made  by  Soult  his  receiving-house 
general  of  stolen  goods.  When  he  fled 
from  Seville,  after  the  Duke's  defeat 
of  Marmont  at  Salamanca,  more  than 
1000  pictures  were  left  behind,  such 
was  his  hurry. 

Now  visit  the  cinque-cento  gardens, 
laid  out  by  Charles ;  they  are  among 
the  most  curious  in  Europe.  Observe 
the  tank  where  Philip  V.  fished,  and 
the  vaulted  Bancs  where  Maria  de 
Padilla,  mistress  of  Pedro  el  Cruel, 
bathed,  and  which  probably  were  ori- 
ginally prisons.  Maria  ruled  in  this 
Alcazar,  and  so  tamed  her  royal  beast 
that  the  vulgar  attributed  her  infiu- 
ence  over  Pedro  to  magic,  but  it  was 
nothing  but  the  natural  and  all-suffi- 
cient charms,  the  witchcraft  of  a  fair 
and  gentle  woman.  The  gardens  are 
those  of  a  Hesperus,  **  not  fabulous  ;" 
their  levels  vary,  and  the  plots  are 
divided  by  orange-clad  walls  ;  the 
balmy  air  is  perfumed  by  the  a^ahar  or 
blossom  and  by  the  golden  fruit.    The 


Andcducia. 


ROUTE  7.— SEVILLE — ^MOORISH  HOUSES. 


187 


compartments  are  arranged  in  quaint 
patterns  cut  in  box  and  myrtles,  such 
as  the  eagles  and  coats  of  arms  of 
Charles  V.,  the  precise  work  of  the 
Sroman  Topiarius ;  and  such  were  the 
sunny  gardens  in  which  Martial's  Cadiz 
friend  Cano  loved  to  sit,  inter  tepentes 
buxus  (iii.  20,  12).  Beware  of  certain 
hidden  foimtains  in  the  walks,  with 
which  the  unwary  traveller  will  be 
sprinkled.  Visit  the  semi-Moorish  azu- 
^'o-adomed  Kiosk  in  the  under  gar- 
den ;  ascend  the  rustic  terrace  to  the  N. 
for  the  view. 

Among  the  most  remarkable  houses 
in  Seville  visit  the  Ccua  OLea^  14, 
Calle  JBotica  del  Affua.  It  is  a  perfect 
Moorish  specimen ;  the  Spanish  white- 
wash was  picked  off  the  stucco  by  an 
artist  named  Bejarano,  long  notorious 
for  repainting  and  ruining  old  pictures. 
After  that  this  house  fell  into  the 
hands  of  a  Frenchman,  one  M.  Do- 
minie, who  destroyed  the  rich  Arte- 
8<mado  ceiling,  and  put  up  a  modem 
flat  one !  and,  what  is  worse,  this 
fashion  became  the  rage  in  Seville,  and 
has  laid  low  many  a  rehc  of  this  class. 
Soult  had  turned  the  room  into  a  stable. 
In  the  adjoining  Calle  de  los  Abodes^ 
No.  27,  was  a  singular  vaulted  Moorish 
saloon,  recently  modernised  by  a  Ghoth. 
In  the  same  street,  Cctsa  Ca/rasa^  No.  9, 
is  a  superb  specimen  of  the  Arragonese 
plateresque,  erected  in  1526  by  canon 
J?inero  j  visit  it  without  fail,  for  the  me- 
dallions are  quite  Raphaelesque.  But 
whitewashing  with  the  fatal  Cal  de  Mo- 
ron, the  bane  of  Seville,  has  much  obhte- 
rated  the  delicate  outlines  of  this  once 
fairy  Patio,  Go  also  to  the  Calle  de  las 
DueiiaSj  a  most  Moorish  palace  of  the 
D.  of  Alba,  and  now,  alas !  fast  going  or 
gone  to  ruin  ;  here  Lord  Holland  lived. 
It  consisted  once  of  11  Patios,  with  9 
fountains,  and  more  than  100  marble 
pillars.  Walk  through  its  gardens  and 
the  forest  orange-trees  and  myrtles. 
On  the  Plaza  del  Duque  is  the  palace 
of  the  great  G-uzman  fisimily,  now  cut 
up  and  divided  into  many  minor  resi- 
dences. Here  is  the  Casino,  or  club. 
In  the  Caea  CantUlana,  Puerta  de 
Xerez,  Lord  Wellesley  resided.     The 


house  was  afterwards  made  a  diligence- 
inn,  and  then  a  wine-store.  How  are 
the  mighty  fallen  in  Spain,  men  and 
mansions ! 

The  family  house  of  the  Taberas, 
which  all  who  read  the  charming  drama 
of  Sancho  Ortiz  de  Boelaa  will  visit,  is 
in  the  Ce.  de  la-  Inquisicion  Vieja.  Her© 
is  still  shown  the  garden-door  by  which 
Sancho  el  Bravo  intended  to  carry  off 
the  beautiful  Estrella  de  Sevilla.  This 
house,  in  1833,  was  tenanted  by  a 
Frenchman,  who  converted  it  into  a 
dyeing-factory ;  and  when  we  were 
there  last,  he  was  meditating  trimming 
up  the  gardens  d  la  mode  de  Paris ; 
next  visit  the  Casa  de  Pilatos,  so  called 
because  said  to  be  built  in  imitation  of 
that  of  Pontius  Pilate  at  Jerusalem. 
The  black  cross  in  the  Patio  is  the 
point  from  whence  I/as  JEstaciones,  the 
stations  to  the  Cruz  del  Campo,  begin. 
Few  Spanish  cities  are  without  these 
stations,  which  generally  lead  to  the 
Calvario,  a  Gblgotha,  or  hill  with 
crosses  on  it,  and  erected  in  memorial 
of  the  crucifixion.  During  Passion 
Week  these  stations  are  visited;  at 
each  of  them  a  prater  is  said  allusive 
to  the  separate  sufferings  of  the  Sa- 
viour, which  are  carved,  painted,  or 
indicated  at  each.  This  palace  was 
built  in  1533,  by  the  great  nobleman 
of  the  day,  Fadiique  Enriquez  de  Ri- 
bera,  in  commemoration  of  his  having 
performed  the  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem 
in  1519.  He  was  accompanied  by  the 
poet  Juan  de  Encina,  who  published 
their  tour,  IHhaffia,  Boma,  1521,  also 
at  Seville,  4to.,  1606,  and  reprinted  at 
Madrid,  fol.,  1748.  The  architecture 
proves  how  closely  the  Spaniards  of 
the  15th  century  imitated  the  Sara- 
cenic  forms,  and  the  influence  their 
sensual  civilization  obtained  over  the 
Gotho-Spaniard,  who  with  increasing 
power  began  to  appreciate  elegance 
and  luxury:  all  is  now  scandalously 
neglected.  The  saloons  of  state  are 
whitewashed,  and  turned  to  base  pur- 
poses ;  the  gardens  are  running  wild ; 
the  sculpture  is  tossed  about  as  in 
a  stonemason's  yard.  Observe  the 
GK>thic  balustrade  over  the  entranc 


188 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — MURnXO'S  HOUSE. 


Sect.  II. 


the  grand  Patio,  with  its  fountains 
and  injured  Koman  statues  of  Pallas, 
Ceres,  and  others.  The  Virgin's  chapel, 
with  a  copy  of  the  Servilleta  of  Mu- 
rillo,  is  adorned  in  the  most  gorgeous 
Saracenic-G-othic  style.  Ascend  the 
magnificent  staircase  to  the  chief  suite 
of  rooms.  Eyerything  that  stucco, 
carving,  Azulefo,  and  guding  could  do, 
was  done.  In  the  pleasant  garden,  visit 
the  grotto  of  Susanna,  and  ohserve 
marbles  and  sculpture,  given  to  Ferafiin 
de  Ribera  by  Pius  V.,  cast  like  rubbish 
amid  the  weeds.  A  selection  was  re- 
moved to  Madrid  by  a  Duke  de  Medina 
Celi,  to  whom  this  deserted  palace  now 
belongs. 

The  lovers  of  Prout-like  bits  must 
visit  the  Jew's  quarters.  Before  their 
expulsion  from  Seville  they  lived  in  a 
separate  "  Jewry,"  or  Ghetto,  La  Ju- 
deria,  which  resembled  IJa  Moreria, 
where  the  Moriscoes  dwelt,  and  is  a 
perfect  labyrinth  of  picturesque  lanes. 
In  the  Juderia  is  the  house  of  Barto- 
lome  Esteban  Murillo,  a  SeviUian  by 
birth,  and  the  head  of  the  Andalucian 
school,  for  Velazquez  more  properly 
belongs  to  Castile :  it  lies  close  to  the 
city  wall,  the  last  to  the  rt.  in  a  small 
plaza  at  the  end  of  the  Callejuela  del 
Agua^  or,  in  the  new-fangled  nomen- 
clature, at  the  end  of  the  Calle  de  Lope 
de  Mueda,  Plaza  de  Alfa/ro.  The 
parish  church,  La  Santa  Cruz,  in 
which  he  was  buried,  was  pulled  down 
under  Soult's  rule,  who  scattered  his 
bones.  Murillo  was  baptized  Jan.  1, 
1618,  in  the  Magdalena — that  church 
also  Soult  destroyed.  His  baptismal 
entry  has  escaped,  and  may  be  seen  at 
San  Pablo.  The  street  in  which  he 
was  bom  now  bears  his  name.  His 
tomb  consisted  of  a  plain  slab,  placed 
before  Campana's  picture  of  the  De- 
scent from  the  Cross  (see  p.  182), with  a 
skeleton  engraved  on  it,  and  the  motto, 
"  Vive  moriturus."  His  painting-room, 
nay,  living-room,  for  he  lived  to  paint, 
was  in  the  upper  floor,  and  is  stiU  as 
sunny  and  as  cheerful  as  his  works. 
There  he  died  April  3^1682.  In  the 
,rden  observe  the  fountain,  and  Ita- 
"n  frescoes,  compositions  of  fauns, 


mermaids,  and  women  with  musical 
instruments.  They  have  been  attri- 
buted by  some  to  Murillo,  which  they 
certainly  are  not,  and  by  others  to  L. 
de  Vargas,  which  is  more  probable. 
This  house  was  purchased  for  about 
1200^.  by  Canon  Cepero,  when  the 
Chapter,  foreseeing  the  coming  shadows 
of  state  appropriation,  sold  off  much  of 
their  disposable  property;  and,  indeed, 
Cepero,  subsequently  the  Dean,  a  man 
of  great  taste,  was  worthy  to  dwell  in 
this  house,  over  which  such  recollec- 
tions hover.  It  was  he  who  did  so 
much  to  rescue  art  at  Seville  during 
the  constitutional  outbreaks ;  and  if 
his  own  collection  contained  many  bad 
pictures,  their  quahty  was  no  fault  of 
his,  for  where  good  ones  are  not  to  be 
procured,  which  is  "the  great  fact" 
of  Seville,  there  bad  become  the  best. 

JSl  Corral  del  Conde,  Calle  Santiago, 
No.  14,  was  a  barrack  of  washerwomen. 
WTiat  a  scene  for  the  pallet!  what  cos- 
tume, balconies,  draperies,  colour,  atti- 
tude, grouping !  what  a  carrying  of 
vases  after  the  antique !  what  a  clatter 
of  female  tongues,  a  barking  of  dogs, 
a  squalling  of  children  —  all  living 
Munllos — assailed  the  invpertinente 
curioso!  Alas!  that  every  day  there 
is  less  washing. 

"For  plateresque  architecture,  the  best 
specimen  is  La  Casa  del  Ayuntamiento, 
the  corporation-house  on  the  great 
plaza,  built  in  1545-64  by  some  great 
unknown.  The  exterior  is  a  sflver- 
smith  chasing  in  stone- work :  observe 
the  staircase,  the  carved  doors,  and 
sala  grande  baja,  with  the  Spanish 
kings,  arranged  in  35  squares,  or  Lacn- 
nares,  on  the  ceiling.  Admirable  also 
is  the  inscription  on  Spanish  Justicia  ; 
the  very  sound  of  which,  so  perfect  in 
theory,  practically  implies  delay,  injus- 
tice, ruin,  and  death.  The  Audiencia, 
or  high  court  of  what  is  called  Justice 
in  Seville,  sits  in  the  opposite  comer 
of  the  Plaza,  and  is  presided  over  by 
a  Regente.  The  prison  close  by  is  a 
sad  scene,  and  is  called  by  the  Majos, 
either  el  colegio,  the  school  for  teaching 
rogues,  or  La  Posada  de  los  Franceses. 

The  different   quarters  into  which 


Andaluoia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^THE  CLERGY. 


189 


Seville  is  divided  are  virell  expressed  in 
these  verses : — 

«•  Desde  la  Catedral,  d  la  Magdalena, 
Se  almuerza,  se  come,  y  se  cena; 
j)esde  la  Magdalena,  d  San  Vicente, 
Se  come  golamenie ; 
Desde  San  Vicente,  d  la  Macarena, 
Ni  se  aimuerza,  ni  se  come,  ni  se  cefiui" 

The  once  wealthy  clergy  gathered 
like  yoimg  pehcans  under  the  wing  of 
the  mother  church.  The  best  houses 
were  near  the  cathedral,  iu  the  Calle  de 
l08  Abodes.  This  Abbot's  street  was 
theb  "close:"  here,  "their beUies with 
good  capons  Uned,"  the  dignitaries 
hredkfastedy  dined,  and  supped;  re- 
cently their  commons  have  been  much 
shortened.  In  tha  San  Vicente  Hved 
the  knights  and  nobles,  and  the  Calle 
de  Armas  was  the  aristocratic  street  of 
arms.  Here  the  hidalgos,  with  their 
wives  and  daughters,  ate  less  and 
dressed  more:  they  onlt/  dined;  they 
pinched  their  stomachs  to  deck  their 
backs:  but  the  most  ancient  unchanged 
Iberian  characteristic,  from  Athenseus 
to  Lazarillo  de  Tonnes,  has  been  ex- 
ternal show  and  internal  want.  The 
Macarena  now,  as  it  always  was,  is  the 
abode  of  ragged  poverty,  which  never 
could  or  can  for  a  certainty  reckon  on 
one  or  on  any  meal  a  day ;  but  they  and 
their  skins  and  jackets,  are  meat  and 
drink  to  all  lovers  of  the  picturesque. 

The  Calle  de  los  Abodes  should  be 
visited,  although  no  longer  so  redolent 
of  rich  ollas.  The  cathedral  staff  con- 
sisted of  an  archbishop,  an  auxiliary 
bishop,  11  (now  reduced  to  5)  dignita- 
ries, 40  (now  reduced  to  16)  canons, 
20  prebendaries,  20  minor  canons,  20 
vienteneros,  and  20  chaplains  of  the 
quire.  Their  emoluments  were  very 
great:  nearly  900  houses  in  Seville 
belonged  to  the  chapter,  besides  vast 
estates,  tithes,  and  corn-rents.  Men- 
dizabal,  in  1836,  appropriated  all  this 
to  the  State,  which  was  to  pay  the 
clergy  a  diminished  income,  which  it  has 
not  done.  Formerly  this  street  was  a 
rookery,  nor  were  the  nests  without 
progeny.  The  Pope  might  deny  his 
cler^  wives  and  children,  but  the  devil 
provided  them  with  housekeepers  and 


nephews.  The  former  ar^  called  amas, 
not  from  amare,  but  the  Sanscrit  a 
house:  so  Ducange  derives  the  syno- 
nym focaria  —  "  anciUa  quse  focum 
curat  clericorum ;  concubina."  In  the 
medieval  period  the  concubines  of  the 
celibate  clergy  were  almost  licensed,  as 
among  the  Moors.  The  mistress  was 
called  barragana,  from  the  Arabic 
words  bo/rra,  strange,  and  gana,  gam- 
dir,  a  connexion:  hence,  in  old  Spanish, 
natural  children  are  called  hijos  de 
ganancia,  which  has  nothing  to  do 
with  gain,  and  is  more  analogous  to 
the  "  strange  woman"  in  Judges  xi.  2; 
others,  and  probably  more  correctly, 
have  derived  the  word  from  the  Arabic 
JBarragan,  single,  unmarried;  which 
was  essential  to  secure  to  the  parties 
thus  cohabiting  without  marriage,  the 
sort  of  morganatic  status  allowed  by 
the  law.  Many  were  the  jests  as  re- 
gards the  children  bom  in  this  street : — 

**  Fnla  caMe  de  los  Abodes, 
Todos  han  Tios,  y  ningvms  PadreB." 

The  little  ones  called  their  father 
their  itncle,  and  he  called  them  his  ne- 
phews. 

••  Los  Canonigos  Madre,  no  tierien  hyos ; 
Los  que  tienen  en  casa,  son  sobrinicos." 

The  wealth  and  comparative  luxury 
of  this  order  of  the  Spanish  clergy  of 
course  exposed  them  to  popular  envy, 
reform,  and  plunder ;  pious  innovators 
were  urged  by  the  auri  sacra  fames  of 
our  Henry  VIII. ;  and  certainly  the 
church  had  so  well  feathered  its  nest, 
that  Death  met  with  few  ruder  welcomes 
than  when  he  tapped  at  a  right  rev. 
and  venerable  dignitary's  door,  who  was 
contented  with  bis  sublunary  lot,  his 
pretty  house,  housekeepery  good  cook, 
good  income  paid  quarterly,  and  pair 
of  sleek  mules  ;  the  priestly  maxim, 
the  canon,  or  Begla  de  SanHago,  was 
thus  laid  down : — 

El  primero—es  amaar  d  Don  Dinero. 

El  segundo — es  amolar  d  todo  d  mundo. 

El  tercero—lmen  vaca  y  camero. 

El  cuarto—ayunar  despues  de  harto. 

El  quinto—buen  Uanco  y  tinto. 

Testos  cinoo  mamdamientos,  se  encierran  en 

doSy 
Todopaarami,  y  nadapara  vos. 


190 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — LA  CARIDAD — SOULT.  Sect.  II. 


The  first  ia— to  love  the  Lord  Money. 

The  second  is — to  g^rind  all  the  world. 

The  third  is— good  beef  and  mutton. 

The  fourth  is — to  fast  when  one  can  eat  no 
more. 

The  fifth  is — good  wine — white  and  red. 
And  these  five  commandments  may  be  summed 

up  in  two — 
Everything  for  me,  and  nothing  for  you. 

And  certainly,  when  the  religious  eeta- 
blishments  numbered  74,  and  the  gra- 
tuitous schools  only  1,  the  clerical  ele- 
ment might  be  said  to  preyail  oyer  the 
educational.  In  truth,  the  pomp  and 
power  of  the  full-blown  church  gave 
cause  to  many  complaints  and  calum- 
nies. It  was  accused  of  becoming  rich 
by  professing  poverty,  of  monopolising 
mundane  affairs  by  pretending  to  re- 
nounce them,  and  of  securing  to  it- 
self the  good  things  of  the  present 
world,  by  holding  out  to  others  hopes 
of  those  of  a  future  one. 

The  great  square  of  Seville  was  long 
called  de  San  Francisco^  £rom  the 
neighbouring  now  ruined  and  crum- 
bling convent.  Munllo  painted,  in 
1645,  for  its  small  cloister,  el  Chico, 
that  series  of  11  superb  pictures  which 
first  made  his  talents  known  in  Seville, 
after  his  return  from  Madrid.  All  these 
were  removed  by  force  of  arms  by  Soult, 
save  one,  which,  from  his  hurried  flight 
after  Salamanca,  he  left  behind  in  the 
Alcazar,  and  which  is  now  in  our  col- 
lection, purchased  and  paid  for. 

A  new  square  is  building  on  the 
convent's  site,  in  which  the  picturesque 
and  national  will  be  superseded  by 
the  comfortable,  civilised,  and  common- 
place. The  old  genuine  Plaza  remains, 
however,  still  the  heart  of  the  city — the 
forum,  the  place  of  gossip  and  of  exe- 
cutions, and  in  look  is  still  very  Moor- 
ish and  picturesque,  with  its  arcades 
and  balconies ;  under  the  former  are 
the  jewellers'  shops.  The  Calle  de 
Oenoa^  at  the  opposite  comer,  is  the 
Patemoster-row  of  Seville  as  regards 
booksellers*  shops,  and  of  the  Fasos,  a 
£gtvourite  spot  to  see  the  processions  of 
PasoSy  or  dressed  and  painted  images 
(see  p.  49)  during  the  Holy  Week. 
These  relics  of  pagan  mummeries  will 
Ytlease  the  antiquarian  more  than  the 


pious  and  the  Protestant;  the  utter 
want  of  all  devotional  sentiment  in  the 
natives,  who  come  only  to  see  the  show 
and  be  seen,  is  no  less  painfully  striking 
than  the  degradation  of  the  Deity  by 
these  tawdry  masquerading  spectacles. 
The  finest  pictures  in  Seville  are  in 
the  Cathedral,  La  Caridad,  the  Museo, 
and  the  University.  Xa  Caridad  is 
an  alms-house,  destined  for  some  80 
poor  old,  and  chiefly  bed-ridden,  men : 
it  lies  outside  the  walls,  near  the  river. 
This  hospital,  dedicated  to  St.  George, 
was  founded  in  1578,  for  the  decent 
interment  of  unburied  paupers,  and  of 
criminals,  whose  remains  previously 
were  left  to  rot  on  the  gibbets.  It  was 
rebuilt  in  1661  by  Miguel  de  Monara 
Vicentelo  de  Lara,  who,  when  young, 
was  in  profligacy  a  Don  Juan  of  Se- 
ville redivivus.  He  was  buried  in  the 
Capilla  mayor.  Bead  his  epitaph — 
cenizas  del  peor  hombre  que  hist  habido 
en  el  mundo :  and  also  consult  his  life 
and  death  by  Juan  de  Cardenas,  4to., 
Seville,  1679.  He  was  the  personal 
friend  and  patron  of  Munllo.  Observe 
the  colonnaded  Paiio,  On  entering 
the  church,  the  carved  and  painted 
Descent  from  the  Cross  over  the  high 
altdr  is  the  masterpiece  of  Pedro  Kol- 
don;  the  almost  startUng  reaUty  is 
marred  by  tinsel  dresses  and  architec- 
tural fritter.  Observe  under  the  coro 
the  «  Triumph  of  Time,"  and  a  "  Dead 
Prelate,"  by  J.  Valdes  Leal,  a  putrid 
picture,  which  Murillo  said  he  could 
not  look  at  without  holding  his  nose. 
Here  he  painted,  in  1660-74,  that  series 
of  grand  pictures,  of  which  Soult — 
hence  justly  called  by  Toreno  the  mo- 
dem Verres,  and  by  Mr.  Stirling  the 
Plunder-Marshall-General — carried  off 
5,  all  of  which  is  entirely  blinked  by 
Monsr.  Maison  in  liis  pilfered  Guide. 
But  the  Marshall  was  moderate  when 
compared  to  his  model,  Verres,  who  took 
27  pictures  from  the  Minerva  Medica 
alone  (CicinVer.iv.  55).  His  "Grace" 
bribed  Buonaparte  with  one,  the  Sa  Isa- 
bel; two  others,  the  "Abraham  wad  an- 
gels," and  the  "  Prodigal  Son,"  he  sold 
to  the  D.  of  Sutherland^  and  the  "  Heal- 
ing  the  Cripple"    to    Mr.  Tomline, 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^IMURILLO. 


191 


at  fabulous  prices ;  the  fourth,  the 
"  Angel  and  St.  Peter,"  passed,  at  his 
final  sale,  in  1852,  to  Russia.  The 
large  amount  of  cash  that  that  sale  pro- 
duced offers  anotlier  proof  of  the  judg- 
ment with  which  Soult,  "that  weU- 
known  French  dealer,"  "collected." 
The  Spaniards  only  recently  filled  up 
the  blank  spaces ;  the  gaps  long  yawned 
like  graves :  hiatus  maxim^  deflendus. 

The  Murillos  now  in  the  Caridad 
are  an  "  Infant  Saviour"  on  panel,  and 
injured;  a  "St.  John,"  rich  and  brown; 
a  "  San  Juan  de  Dios,"  equal  to  Rem- 
brandt ;  the  Pan  y  Feces,  or  Loaves  and 
Fishes  ;  but  the  figure  of  Christ  feed- 
ing the  Five  Thousand,  which  ought  to 
be  the  principal,  is  here  subordinate : 
the  "  Moses  striking  the  Rock"  is  much 
finer;  this  is  indeed  a  representation 
of  the  Hagar-like  thirst  of  the  desert, 
and  is  justly  called  La  Sed :  the  figure 
of  Moses  is  poor,  and  wants  relief,  but 
the  parched  groups  are  excellent.  Both 
pictures  are  colossal,  and  painted  in  a 
sketchy  manner,  calculated  for  the 
height  and  distance  of  their  position 
from  the  spectator,  which,  however,  is 
inconveniently  high  and  distant;  but 
here  they  still  hang,  like  rich  oranges  on 
the  bough  where  they  originallybudded. 

At  Seville,  as  elsewhere,  those  good 
pictures  that  M.  Soult  did  not  "remove" 
by  iron,  the  EngUsh  have  carried  off 
by  gold,  and  little  now  remains  but  un- 
mitigated rubbish,  to  which  fine  names 
are  all  given,  caveat  Emptor ;  here  all 
the  geese  are  swans — all  are  Murillos, 
all  by  Velazquez,  and  so  forth ;  but  it 
is  sheer  loss  of  time  to  visit  these 
refuges  of  the  destitute  and  worthless ; 
and  our  collectors  cannot  be  too  ear- 
nestly cautioned  against  making  pur- 
chases, and  picking  up  an  original  for 
an  old  song.  Among  the  least  bad 
may  be  mentioned  the  collections  of 
Dean  Cepero,  who  lives  in  Murillo*s 
house,  and  that  of  Don  Aniceto  Bravo, 
ISo.  40,  Calle  de  los  Catalanes,  which 
contains  700  and  more  "warranted 
originals,"  and  the  collections  of  Se- 
fi^ores  Garcia  and  Saenz,  The  once 
really  genuine  and  precious  galleries  of 
Don  Julian  Williams,  Canon  Maestre, 


and  the  Conde  de  Mejorada,  have  had 
all  the  plums  picked  out. 

Since  the  dissolution  of  the  convents, 
many  pictures,  and  some  neglected 
antiquities,  have  been  collected  in  the 
Merced,  which  is  now  the  provincial 
Museum.  This  noble  ediifice  was 
founded  in  1249  by  St.  Ferdinand. 
The  Patio  and  Axulejos  are  of  the  time 
of  Charles  V.  Before  the  invasion 
even,  it  was  fuU  of  fine  paintings  ; 
but  a  French  agent  had  previously, 
in  the  guise  of  a  traveller,  noted  the 
contents ;  and  the  same  individual,  so 
the  prior  informed  us,  reappeared  with 
the  army,  and  laughed  at  the  deceived 
monk,  when  he  demanded  them  by 
the  list  drawn  up  on  his  former  visit. 
That  respectable  character  Nero  was 
the  first  who  devised  sending  commis- 
sioners to  pillage  art,  altars.  &c.  (Tac. 
An.  XV.  45). 

At  Seville,  Bartolome  Esteban  Mu- 
rillo  is  to  be  seen  in  all  his  glory,  and 
a  giant,  like  AntsBus,  on  his  native  soil. 
His  finest  pictures,  painted  for  the 
Capuchinos,  were  sent  off,  in  1810,  to 
Cadiz,  and  thus  escaped.  Murillo,  bom 
at  Seville,  and  baptized  Jan.  1,  1618, 
where  he  died,  April  3,  1682,  was  the 
painter  of  female  and  infantine  grace,  as 
Velazquez  was  of  more  masculine  and 
intellectual  subjects.  Both  were  true 
alike  in  form  and  colour  to  Spanish 
natiu^ — both  were  genuine,  national, 
and  idiosyncratic.  Murillo  had  three 
styles:  the  Frio,  his  earliest,  being 
based  on  Ribera  and  Caravaggio,  was 
dark,  with  a  decided  outline.  Of  these 
were  the  pictures  in  San  Francisco. 
His  second  manner  was  his  Calido,  or 
warm,  when  his  colouring  was  im- 
proved, while  his  drawing  was  still 
well  defined  and  marked.  His  third 
style  was  the  Vaporoso,  or  misty, 
vaporous,  and  blending.  This  he 
adopted  partly  because  Herrera  el 
Mozo  had  made  it  the  Bsishion,  and 
partly  because,  being  stinted  for  time 
from  the  increased  orders,  he  could 
not  finish  so  highly.  Thus,  like  Turner 
and  Wilkie,  to  get  more  quickly  over 
his  work,  he  sacrificed  a  somewhat  of 
his  previous  conscientious  drawing. 


192 


EOUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ZURBARAN. 


Sect.  II. 


The  Museo  of  Seville,  which  is  by 
far  the  first  provincial  one  in  Spain, 
is,  as  most  other  things  there,  the 
creation  of  accident  and  individuals ; 
nor  does  it  contain  a  single  specimen 
of  Velazquez,  the  greatest  painter  of 
Spain,  and  in  this  his  native  ci^.  In 
1836  the  Canon  Manuel  Lope  Cepero, 
now  the  dean,  a  gentleman  of  real  taste 
and  high  honour,  managed  at  the  sup- 
pression of  the  convents,  when  appro- 
priation and  Vandalism  were  the  order 
of  the  day,  to  get  the  best  pictures 
removed  to  the  Cathedral,  a  sanc- 
tuary where  they  were  saved  from  the 
spoilers;  the  authorities,  who  cared 
for  none  of  these  things,  affording  no 
other  assistance  than  that  of  galley^ 
slaves,  to  do  the  mere  porters*  work ! 
In  1838  Senor  Bejarano  managed  by 
a  private  subscription  to  move  them 
into  their  present  situation.  Mean- 
while, as  nothing  in  Spain  is  ever  com- 
plete, here  in  Seville  we  sigh  for  fine 
specimens  of  Velazquez,  Luis  de  Vargas, 
and  even  Alonso  Cano ;  nevertheless 
it  is  the  best  place  in  the  wliole  Penin- 
sula to  study  the  masters  of  this  school, 
many  of  whose  names  and  works  have 
scarcely  even  been  heard  of  in  Eng- 
land, such  as  the  Folancos,  Valdez 
Leal,  Varela,  Vasquez,  &c.  A  meagre 
catalogue  of  this  Museo  was  published 
in  1850  by  one  wAlvarez. 

At  the  entrance  is  the  elaborate  iron 
Cruz,  which  stood  formerly  in  the  Cer- 
rageriai  and  is  the  work  of  Sebastian 
Conde,  1692.  The  other  antique  sculp- 
ture scattered  about  in  most  admired 
disorder,  is  second-rate.  The  fine  Sille- 
ria  del  Coro  by  P.  D.  Comejo,  from 
the  Ca/rtuja,  is  placed  in  a  room  below, 
as  also  the  carvings  by  Montanes. 
Among  the  finest  pictures  observe  No. 
1,  the  Apotheosis  of  Thomas  Aquinas, 
the  master-piece  of  Francisco  Zurba- 
ran,  and  painted  in  1625,  for  the  Co- 
legio  de  Santo  Tomas;  ^^  Removed"  to 
Paris  by  Soult,  it  was  recovered  by 
Wellington  at  Waterloo ;  the  Head  of 
St.  Thomas  is  the  portrait  of  a  Don 
Agustin  de  Ecobar ;  the  drapery,  vel- 
vet, armour,  &c.,  offer  a  blaze  of  splen- 

->ur  combined  with  much  more  stuff 


and  substance  than  in  the  ornamental 
brocades  of  P.  Veronese ;  Zurbaran  is 
called  the  Spanish  Carravaggio,  but  he 
is  much  more  Titianesque,  more  ele- 
vated in  mind  and  manner.  Among 
the  other  Zurbarans  observe,  "  San 
Henrique  de  Sufon"  and  No.  10 
"  San  Luis  Bertran,"  and  the  "  Padre 
Etemo ;"  also.  No.  150,  a  Saviour  in 
violet  as  a  youth  plaiting  a  crown  of 
thorns  j  also  the  three  first-rate  pic- 
tures fipom  the  Cartuja — "  San  Bruno 
before  Urban  II.,"  "  the  Virgin  pro- 
tecting the  Monks,"  and  No.  137 
"San  Hugo  in  the  Refectory;"  al- 
though unfortunately  injured  by  over 
cleaning,  they  are  magnificent.  No 
one  ever  painted  fleecy-hosiery  Car- 
thusian monks  like  Zurbaran ;  he  was, 
however,  apt  to  draw  too  much  fi*om 
lay  figures,  which  gives  a  hard  outline, 
no  throbbing  Ufe  heaves  under  his  re- 
gular folds.  The  studier  of  style  will 
notice  the  peculiar  pinky  tone  of  this 
master,  especially  in  female  cheeks : 
they  seem  fed  on  roses,  as  was  said  of 
Parrhasius  and  Baroccio;  but  the 
prevalent  use  of  rouge  at  that  time  in- 
fluenced his  eye,  as  it  did  that  of 
Velazquez.  No.  19,  Sn.  Pedro  No- 
lascoy  is  by  Fr***  Pacheco,  the  feeble 
master  and  father-in-law  of  Velazquez. 
By  the  presumptuous  and  conceited 
Herrera  el  Mozo  is  No.  13,  Santa 
Anna  and  the  Virgin. 

Of  Juan  de  Castillo,  MuriUo's  mas- 
ter, observe  the  series  of  5  from  the 
Monte  Sion,  especially  the  "Annun- 
ciation," "  Visitation,"  "  Nativity  and 
Adoration,  and  Coronation  of  the  Vir- 
gin." In  No.  136  the  "  San  Andres  " 
of  Boelas,  a  child  is  almost  equal  to 
some  by  Correggio,  as  a  warrior  is  to 
one  by  Titian.  Of  Herrera  el  Viejo, 
the  bold  dashing  master  of  Velazquez, 
who  lost  his  scholars  with  his  temper, 
observe  the  San  Hermenegildo,  to 
which  the  artist  owed  his  safe  deli- 
verance ;  guilty  of  a  forgery,  he  had 
fled  to  ail  asylum,  where  he  painted 
this  picture.  Philip  IV.,  who  saw  it 
in  1624,  inquired  for  the  author,  and 
pardoned  him,  observing  that  such 
talents  ought  never  to  be  abused.   His 


Andcducia,       route  7. — Seville — pictures  by  murillo. 


193 


San  Basilio  is  bold  and  Ribera-like : 
observe  tlie  kneeling  bishop  and  the 
handling  of  the  drapery,  for  in  it  is 
the  germ  of  Velazquez.  The  pictures 
of  iVutet,  a  Calvario,  Christ  on  a  Cross, 
Descent,  and  a  Virgin,,  which  came  from 
Las  Bubas;  as  well  as  those  of  the  pre- 
sumptuous Juan  Valdes,  from  San  0e- 
ronimo,  are  second-rate ;  observe,  how- 
ever, the  CalvariOf  and  those  relating  to 
San  Jerome,  which  are  painted  with  a 
most  Spanish  defiance  of  time,  place,  and 
costume.  Notice  especially  the  terra 
cotta, "  St.  Jerome"  of  Pietro  Torrigiano, 
which  was  long  in  the  Buena  Vista  con- 
vent. Tliis  great  Italian,  born  at  Flo- 
rence about  1470,  and  known  in  his- 
tory for  breaking  his  co-pupU  Michael 
Angelo's  nose,  was  sent  to  Spain  by  his 
patron.  Pope  wAlexander  VI.,  a  Borgia 
and  a  Spamard.  He  came  to  G-ranada  in 
the  hopes  of  executing  the  Sepulchre  of 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella;  rejected  be- 
cause a  foreigner, he  turned  to  England, 
and  wrought  that  of  Henry  VII.  in 
Westminster  Abbey.  Torrigiano  re- 
turned to  Spain,  where  he  modelled  a 
Virgin,  of  which  the  exquisite  Xo^  mano 
a  la  tetay  in  the  Seville  plaster-shops,  is 
a  cast.  He  died — oh !  blot  to  Seville — 
tortured  in  the  vaults  of  the  Inquisition, 
nominally  because  of  suspected  faith, 
but  really  a  victim  of  artistical  jealousy 
and  Espanolismo.  But  so  Bernard  Pa- 
lissy,  the  Luca  de  la  Bobbia  of  France, 
perished  in  1589,  consigned  to  a  dun- 
geon by  bigoted  persecutors. 

Near  this  "  St.  Jerome  "  is  a  Santo 
Domingo,  from  Portaceli,  by  Montanes. 
The  anatomical  and  feir  nudity  of  the 
Italian  contrasts  with  the  brown  draped 
work  of  the  Spaniard.  Observe  also  a 
crucifix  and  a  St.  Dominick  by  the  same 
sculptor,  and  a  crucifix  by  Matias  Vaz- 
quez de  Leca,  1614 ;  from  the  Cartuja 
convent,  the  four  repainted  Virtues, 
and  the  Silleria  del  Coro,  Notice  also 
No.  114,  a  "  Last  Supper,"  and  a 
"Christ,"  by  the  learned  Pablo  de 
Cespedes ;  a  Battle  of  Clavijo,  by  Juan 
de  Varela;  a  portrait  of  Ferd.  VII., 
by  Q-oya ;  and  No.  380,  the  celebrated 
Last  Judgment,  by  Martin  de  Vos, 
from  San  Agustin,  whose  female  nudi- 

Spain,—!, 


ties  were  so  long  a  stumbling-block  to 
the  priests,  who  could  not  say  mass 
quietly  before  them.  Pacheco  {Arte 
de  IHnt.,  201),  states  the  case  of  a 
venerable  prelate  who  was  so  troubled 
by  the  deshabille  of  a  condemned  gen- 
tlewoman, that  he  pronounced  exposure 
to  a  hurricane  in  the  storm- vexed  Ber- 
mudas— he  had  been  a  sailor  in  his 
youth — to  be  infinitely  less  perilous. 

The  Murillos  are  placed  in  the  Sala 
de  Murillo,  like  gems  set  in  a  diadem. 
The  finest  came   from   the  Capuchin 
convent,  for  which  they  were  painted 
at  his  best  period.    Although  the  pre- 
sent light  is  better  than  that  of  their 
original  positions,  yet  they  lose  some- 
thing by  the  change,  as  Murillo,  in  de- 
signing them,  calculated  each  exactly 
for  its  locaHty,  and  painted  up  to  the 
actual  light  and  point  of  view ;    and 
we  moreover  much  miss  the  Capuchino 
cicerone,  who  seemed  to  have  stepped 
out  of  one  of  the  pictures  to  tell  us 
where  Murillo  went  for  a  model,  and 
how  true  was  his  portrait ;  the  Santo 
Tomas  de  Villamteva,  No.  155,   was 
called  by  the  painter  su  cuadro,  his  own 
picture.  The  beggars  are  beyon  d  price ; 
the  smallest  is  worth  a  wUdemess  of 
best  dressed  lords  and  ladies  of  the  bed- 
chamber; none  could  represent  them 
and    Franciscans    like    Murillo,   and 
simply  because  he  painted  them  the 
most,  and  drew  only  what    he  saw 
actually  in  the  Maca/rena  and  at  every 
convent  gate,  as  all  who  remember  the 
genus  monasticum  will  admit.   His  was 
a  faithfrd  transcript  of  Spanish  men- 
dicant  and  monastic  nature,  neither 
more  nor  less.    No.  154,  the  Sam  Felix 
de  CantaliciOy  is  the  perfection  of  the 
vaporoso:  the  delicate  young  flesh  of 
the  child,  the  Corregiesque  morbidezza, 
contrasts  with  the  greys  of  the  aged 
saint.      This,   say  the    Spaniards,   is 
painted  con  leche  y  aamgre,  or  with 
milk  and  blood.    No.  156,  the  Santas 
Justa  y  Mufina,  is  in  his  calido  style, 
forcible,  and  yet  tender.     "The  Na- 
tivity;" No.  152  "The  Adoration  of 
Shepherds;"   San  Leandro   and  San 
Buenaventura  —  observe  the  peeping 
boy  like  Correggio,  not  that  Murillo 

K 


194 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — IMMACULATE  CONCEPTION.        Sect.  11. 


ever  studied  from  him,  be  looked  rather 
to  the  children  as  painted  by  Koelas. 
Observe  the  San  Jose;  San  Juan  con  el 
Cordero  and  No.  165, "  The  Virgin  and 
Child,"  called  La  ServUleta,  because 
said  to  have  been  painted  on  a  dinner- 
napkin  ;  the  child  almost  struggles  out 
of  its  mother's  arms,  and  out  of  the 
picture^frame.  What  a  creative  power, 
what  a  coiner  was  our  Murillo,  who 
could  convert  into  a  bank-note  a  napkin, 
in  which  most  Spaniards  bury  theu*  pe- 
tit talent !    No.  161,  "  St.  Francis  em- 
bracing the  Crucified  Saviour :"  here  is 
seen  Murillo's  great  power  of  drawing. 
Observe,  also,  "  The  Virgin  and  Angels 
with  the  Dead  Christ,"  and  «  The  An- 
nunciation."    No.  157,  the  San  Anto- 
nio, is  a  finer  picture  than  that  in  the 
cathedral;    observe    i\^e   monk's    ex- 
pression looking  on  the  child  that  is 
seated  on  his  book.     Also  No.  162, 
San  Felix,  half-length.  All  these  came 
from  the  Capuchinos.     There  is  also 
an    early .  Murillo,    a    "  Virgin    and 
Child,"  from  San  Jose,  and  two  of  San 
Agustin.     The  rest  of  the  collection, 
some  hundred  pictures,  are  by  different 
artists,   and    of   different   degrees   of 
merit.      The  above  selected  are  the 
pearls  of  greatest  price.    And  last,  not 
least,  observe  No.  151,  La  Concepcion 
by  Murillo,  once  a  gem  of  the  Capu- 
chin convent.    No.  1  is  another  and 
larger  of  this  popular  Seville  subject, 
but  not  so  fine  :  MuriUo,  from  his  ex* 
ceUence  in  painting  this   "mystery," 
was  called  el  jpintor  de  las  concepciones. 
The  crovming  and  protecting  mys- 
tery of  Spam  is  the  dogma  that  the 
Virgin  was  bom  free  from  all  taint  of 
original  sin.     This  is  so  peculiar  and 
national,  occurs  so  frequently  in  church, 
chapel,  and  gallery,  and  has  occupied 
so  many  pens,  pencils,  and  chisels,  that 
some  explanation  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary in  any    *  Handbook  for  Spain.' 
The  assertion  that    she  was  exempt 
from  original  sin — which  by  deifying 
the   Womcmy  denies  the  humanity  of 
the  Saviour,  a  dogma  which,  in  1854 ! 
is  the  panacea  of  Pio  Nono — was  due 
to  a  heretic,  Felagius,  while  the  ortho- 
dox St.  Augustine  taught  the  reverse 


(de  N.  et  G-.  36;  contra  Jul.  v.  15, 
vi.  22).  The  dispute  of  this  Imma- 
culate Conception  waxed  warm  in 
the  13  th  century,  but  the  Soman 
clergy  took  little  interest  in  a  mere 
question  of  casuistry.  The  Council  of 
Trent  blinked  the  question,  wishing  to 
decide  nothing  (see  Sarpi  Sistoria,  p. 
188,  ed.  1629).  Not  so  the  Spaniard, 
whose  worship  of  an  Astarte  is  almost 
sexual:  accordingly,  when  it  was  re- 
vived in  1613,  a  Dominican  monk 
having  contended  that  the  Deipara  was 
liable  to  the  pains  and  penalties  of 
original  sin,  their  rival  mendicants  the 
Franciscans  affirmed  that  she  was  ex- 
empt. Those  of  Seville  took  the  lead  so 
violently  that,  before  the  Dominicans 
were  silenced  by  the  Pope,  the  whole 
population  assembled  in  churches,  and 
sallying  forth  with  an  emblematical 
picture  of  the  sinless  Mary,  set  upon  a 
sort  of  standard  surmounted  by  a  cross, 
paraded  the  city  in  different  directions, 
singing  praises  to  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception, and  repeating  aloud  the  hymns 
of  her  rosa/ry.  These  processions  long 
constituted  one  of  the  peculiar  usages  of 
Seville ;  and,  although  confined  to  the 
lower  classes,  assumed  that  character- 
istic importance  and  overbearing  spirit 
which,  as  among  the  Moslems,  is  at- 
tached to  religious  associations  in  Spain. 
Wherever  one  of  these  processions  pre- 
sents itself  to  the  public,  it  takes  up 
the  street  from  side  to  side,  stopping 
the  passengers  and  expecting  them  to 
stand  uncovered  in  all  kinds  of  wea- 
ther till  the  standard  is  gone  by.  These 
banners  are  called  Sin  Pecados,  that  is, 
"  sinless,"  from  the  theological  opinion 
in  support  of  which  they  were  raised. 

They  take  place  during  the  holy 
week  and  the  winter  season,  and  are 
very  picturesque.  At  nightfall  the  long 
lines  of  men,  women,  and  children,  two 
and  two,  are  seen  twinkling  through 
the  narrow  streets,  which  are  illumi« 
nated  from  the  balconies  of  the  houses. 
Their  hymns  are  precisely  the  old,  Noc- 
tumis,  Hecate,  triviis  ulidata  per  urbes ; 
and  there  is  something  striking  in  the 
melody  of  the  chant  of  distant  voices 
heard  as  it  approaches :  the  procession^ 


Andalucia,     route  7. — Seville — ^immaculate  coiircEPTiON. 


195 


is  headed  by  devotees,  who  carry  riclily 
chased  lamps, /<awo^*,  on  staves.  The 
parish  priest  follows,  bearing  the  glit- 
tering banner  of  gold  and  velvet,  the 
Sin  Pecado,  on  which  the  Virgin  is 
embroidered;  as  soon  as  the  cortege 
passes  by,  the  candles  in  the  balconies 
are  put  out :  thus,  while  all  before  is 
one  glare  of  light,  all  behind  is  dark, 
and  it  seems  as  if  the  banner  of  the 
Virgin  cast  glory  and  effulgence  before 
her,  Uke  the  fire-pillar  which  preceded 
the  Israelites  in  the  desert.  The  scholar 
may  compare  all  this  with  the  accounts 
of  the  "  Omnipotentis  Dese  foecundum 
simulacrum ; "  the  lamps,  songs,  ante- 
cantamentay  and  processions  of  the 
Pompa  of  Isis  described  by  Apuleius, 
*  Met.'  xi.  243,  et  seq.  The  air  of  the 
music  varies  in  different  parishes :  the 
words  are  JDios  te  salve  Maria,  llena 
eres  de  ffracia,  el  Senor  es  conti^o,  hen- 
dita  tu  eres  entre  todas  las  mugereSy  y 
bendito  es  eljruto  de  tu  vientre  ;  Jesus  ! 
Sta.  Maria,  Madre  de  Dios,  ruega 
Senora  por  nosotros  pecadores  dhora  y 
en  la  hora  de  nuestra  muerte. 

The  Spanish  government,  under 
Charles  III.,  showed  the  greatest  eager- 
ness to  have  the  sinless  purity  of  the 
Virgin  Mary  added  by  the  Pope  to  the 
articles  of  the  Boman  Cathohc  Mth. 
The  court  of  Bome,  however,  with  the 
cautious  spirit  which  has  at  all  times 
guided  its  spiritual  politics,  endea- 
voured to  keep  clear  from  a  stretch  of 
authority,  which  even  some  of  its  own 
divines  would  be  ready  to  question; 
but  splitting,  as  it  were,  the  difference 
with  theological  precision,  the  censures 
of  the  church  were  levelled  against 
such  as  should  have  the  boldness  to 
assert  that  the  Virgin  Mary  had  derived 
any  taint  fit)m  her  ancestress  Eve ;  next, 
having  personified  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception, it  was  declared'  that  the  Spa- 
nish dominions  in  Europe  and  America 
were  under  the  protecting  influence  of 
that  mysterious  event :  the  declaration, 
on  the  22nd  October,  1617,  diffused 
joy  over  all  Spain.  Seville  went  reli- 
giously mad.  Zuniga  and  Valderama 
enter  into  all  the  details  of  the  bull- 
fights which  were*  celebrated  on  the 


occasion.  Charles  IIJ.  afterwards  in- 
stituted an  order,  to  which  he  gave  his 
name  "  Carlos  Tercero,"  under  the 
emblem  of  the  Immaculate  Concep- 
tion— a  woman  dressed  in  white  and 
blue ;  and  a  law  was  enacted  requiring 
a  declaration  upon  oath  of  a  firm  belief 
in  the  Immaculate  Conception  from 
every  individual  previous  to  his  taking 
any  degree  at  the  universities,  or  being 
admitted  into  any  of  the  corporations, 
civil  and  religious,  which  abound  in 
Spain.  This  oath  was  administered 
even  to  mechanics  upon  their  being 
made  free  of  a  guild.  At  Seville  a  col- 
lege, Las  Becas,  was  founded  solely  to 
instruct  youth  in  the  defence  of  this 
mystery.  AU  the  facts  and  opinions, 
both  pro  and  con,  are  collected  by  the 
Franciscan  Pedro  Alva  y  Astorga,  im- 
der  the  title  "Funiculi  nodi  indisso- 
lubiles  de  conceptu  mentis  et  ventris  :" 
Brussels,  1661.  The  author  left  18 
more  volumes  on  this  subject,  which 
still  remain  unpublished  (see  Antonio, 
*  Bib.  Nov.'  ii.  168).  The  arguments 
may  be  summed  up  in  three  words, 
decuit,  potuit,  fecit.  The  miracle  was 
becoming  the  occasion,  it  was  in  the 
power  of  the  Almighty  to  work  it,  and 
he  didr 

Formerly  no  one  entered  a  house 
or  company  without  giving  the  watch* 
word  of  Seville,  Ave  Maria  purisima, 
to  which  the  inmates  responded  by  the 
countersign  sin  pecado  concebida :  now 
the  first  portion  is  generally  the  indica- 
tion of  a  visit  from  a  mendicant. 

Seville  having  taken  the  lead  in  the 
dispute,  as  became  the  capital  of  ultra- 
mariolatrous  Andalucia,  Im  tierra  de 
la  Santisma,  it  is  natural  that  some 
of  the  most  perfect  conceptions  of 
Murillo  and  Alonso  Cano  should  have 
been  devoted  to  the  embodying  this 
incorporeal  mystery;  and  never  has 
dignified  composure  and  innocence  of 
mind,  unruffled  by  human  guilt  or  pas- 
sion, pure  unsexual  unconsciousness  of 
sin  or  shame,  heavenly  beatitude  past 
utterance,  or  the  unconquerable  ma- 
jesty and  "hidden  strength  of  chas- 
tity," been  more  exquisitdy  portrayed. 
She  appears  in  a  state  of  extatic  bea- 

K  2 


196 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^IMMACULATE  CONCEPTION.  Sect.  II. 


titude,  and  borne  aloft  in  a  golden 
sther  to  hearen,  to  which  point  her 
beauteous  eyes  are  turned,  by  a  group 
of  angels,  which  none  could  paint  or 
colour  like  Murilloj  who  seems  to  haye 
studied  in  heaven  those  little  cherubs 
of  which  that  kingdom  is  made.  The 
retiring  virgin  loveliness  of  the  blessed 
Mary  seems  to  have  stolen  so  gently,  so 
silently  on  her,  that  she  is  unaware  of 
her  own  power  and  fascination.  The 
Inquisition  required  the  Virgin  to  be 
painted  as  about  fifteen  years  old,  very 
beautiful,  with  those  regulieur  features 
which  the  Greek  artists  selected  to 
express  the  perfect  passionless  serenity 
of  the  immortal  gods,  devoid  of  human 
frailties,  and  the  type  of  "  the  unpol- 
luted temple  of  the  mind  j"  that  her 
attitude  should  be — 
*'  Her  graceful  anna  in  meekness  bending 
Across  her  gently  budding  breast ;" — 

that  she  should  be  clad  in  a  spotless 
^be  of  blue  and  white,  because  she 
appeared  in  those  colours  to  Beatriz 
de  Silva.  She  should  bruise  with  her 
heel  the  serpent's  head;  thus  tram- 
pling on  the  author  of  original  sin. 
She  should  stand  on  the  moon  in  a 
crescent  shape ;  thus  combining  at 
once  the  symbol  of  Pagan  and  Moslem, 
the  crescent  of  Isis,  of  Diana,  and  of 
the  Turk.  The  horns  should  be  placed 
downwards,  because  in  £Eict  the  moon 
is  always  solid,  although  it  appears  to 
us,  from  the  sim  getting  between  it  and 
the  earth,  to  be  occasionally  a  crescent. 
The  moon  is  introduced  because  the 
*'  Woman^  clothed  with  the  sun,  and  the 
moon  under  her  feet,  and  upon  her 
head  a  crown  of  twelve  stars  "  (Rev. 
xii.  1)  is  held  at  Rome  to  signify  "  the 
Virgin,"  while  Protestants  interpret 
the  "Woman"  as  an  image  only  of 
the  Christian  or  spiritual  Church. 
Meantime  these  stars  should  never  be 
omitted.  The  body  of  the  Virgin 
should  float  in  an  atmosphere  of  light, 
derived  from  herself.  The  cordon  of 
San  Francisco,  sacred  as  the  2iennaa/r 
cord  of  the  Brahmins,  should  encircle 
the  whole,  because  it  is  the  badge  of 
that  order  which  defended  her  imma- 
culate conception.  The  subject  is  often 


surrounded  with  smaller  pictures,  which 
represent  those  different  attributes 
and  manifold  perfections  of  the  Virgin, 
which  are  celebrated  in  her  Hymn 
and  Litany.  Murillo's  unapproach- 
able pre-eminence  in  representing  this 
charmins  subject  procured  for  him  the 
name  oi  el  pintor  de  la  Concepcion, 
The  draperies  of  the  Virgin  must  be 
very  long,  and  her  feet  never  shown ; 
and  this  forms  one  guide  to  distinguish 
Spanish  from  Italian  pictures  of  this 
subject. 

The  mystery  of  the  incarnation  is 
shadowed  out  in  the  annorial  bearings 
of  the  Vu^n,  the  vase  with  Uly^ 
brancheSf  jarro  eon  a^ucenas,  which  is 
t'O  be  seen  sculptured  in  Spanish  ca- 
thedrals, most  of  which  are  dedicated 
to  her,  and  not  to  the  Father  or  Son. 
In  the  middle  ages  an  idea  was  preva- 
lent that  any  female  who  ate  the  lily 
would  become  pregnant :  Lucina  sine 
concubitu.  See  some  remarks  of  ours 
in  the  *  Quan  Rev.*  cxxiii.  130. 

Tlie  Umversity  of  Seville  was  origin- 
ally a  convent  erected  by  the  Jesuits  in 
1565-79,after  designs  of  Herrera,and  in 
their  peculiar  worldly  pomp,  which  con- 
trasted with  the  gloomy  piles  of  the  more 
ascetic  orders.  When  Charles  III.  ex- 
pelled them  in  1767,  it  was  assigned,  by 
the  praiseworthy  efforts  of  Olavide,  to 
purposes  of  education.  Thearrangement 
in  the  church  of  the  subsequent  frieze, 
cornice,  and  architraves  is  obiection- 
able,  when  compared  with  the  original 
Doric*  Recently  many  churriguer- 
esque  altars  and  absurd  ornaments 
have  been  removed.  It  may  be  called 
the  second  Musewn  of  Seville,  and  the 
founder  was  the  same  worthy  Cepero. 
A  tolerable  hbrary  has  been  formed 
from  those  of  the  suppressed  convents, 
and  the  system  of  education  has  been 
modernist  and  improved  since  1846. 

Although  the  position  of  the  Coro 
Alto  of  the  chapel  spoils  the  general 
effect,  the  raised  altar  mayoTy  with 
it  s  tabernacle  by  Matias,  1604,  is  noble. 
The  superb  Corinthian  Betahlo  de- 
signed by  Alonso  Matias,  in  1606, 
contains  three  grand  paintings  by 
Roelas — a  Holy  Family,  with  Jesuits ; 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  7.— SEVILLE — UNIVERSITY. 


197 


a^atmty;  and  an  Adoration.  Koone 
ever  painted  the  sleek  and  oily  grimal- 
kin Jesuit  like  E>oelas.  Observe  an  An- 
nunciation by  Pacheoo ;  a-  St.  John 
the  Evangelist,  and  a  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist, by  Alonso  Cano.  The  statues  of 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  are  by  Mon-^ 
taues.  Observe  the  smaller  picture  by 
Boelas,  and  particularly  the  Infant 
Saviour.  Al  lado  del  JSvangelio  are 
the  bronze  monuments  of  Francisco 
Duarte  and  his  wife  Catalina,  ob.  1554  ; 
both  were  brought  in  1840  from  the 
Convento  de  la  Victoria  de  Triana. 

The  Betahlos  of  the  chapels  of  Con- 
cepcion  and  Las  Meliquias  deserve  no- 
tice :  in  the  latter  are  pictures  in  the 
manner  of  Pacheco.  Observe  the  two 
images  made,  to  be  dressed,  imagenes 
de  vestwy  of  Francisco  de  Borja  and  San 
Ignacio,  vnrought  in  1610  by  Mon- 
taHes ;  the  latter  was  coloured  by 
Francisco  Pacheco,  and  probably  is 
the  best  portrait  of  the  founder  of  the 
order  of  Jesuits  that  exists ;  also  by 
him  a  crucifix  and  a  fine  Concepcion ; 
and  some  pictures,  by  Cano,  of  the 
lives  of  San  Cosm^  San  Damian,  a 
Saviour,  and  a  Holy  Father.  Among 
the  monumental  curiosities  removed 
from  Santiago  de  Sspada,  a  church 
which  Soult  turned  into  a  stable,  ob- 
serve, first,  the  founder's  tomb,  Lo- 
renio  Suarez  de  Figueroa,  with  his 
favourite  dog  Amadis  at  his  feet ;  and 
next  the  sepulchre  of  the  learned  Be- 
nito Arias  Montano,  ob,  1598:  these 
w^ere  brought  also  from  the  Santiago, 
and  properly  placed  here  as  an  ex- 
ample to  young  students ;  remark  the 
costume.  In  an  apartment  recently 
fitted  up  are  4  heads  of  Latin  fathers 
by  Alonso  Cano,  2  pictures  by  Boelas, 
and  a  good  Zarbaran. 

On  the  suppression  of  the  Cartuja 
convent,  the  burial«place  of  the  Bibera 
family.  Canon  Cepero  induced  their 
representative,  the  Duke  of  Medina 
Oeli,  to  remove  the  fine  sepulchres  of 
his  ancestors  :  that  of  Pedro  Fnriquez, 
ob.  1492,  was  sculptured  at  Genoa  by 
Antonio  Charona  in  1606.  The  Virgin 
and  Child  is  much  admired,  as  also 
the  weeping  genius,  called  La  Tea, 


from  the  reversed  torch ;  its  con^panion 
was  taken  to  Madrid.  The  armed 
ef&gy  is  somewhat  heavy.  Observe 
the  statues  of  Diego  G-omez  de  Bibera, 
ob.  1434,  and  his  wife  Beatriz  Puertor  ^ 
Carrero,  ob.  1548.  Among  others  of 
this  warlike  family,  most  of  •  whom 
spent  their  lives  in  combating  the 
Moor,  are  Perafan  de  Bibera,  ob. 
1455,  and  another  of  the  same  name, 
ob.  1423,  aged  105 ;  perhaps  the  finest 
is  that  of  Dona  Catalina,  ob.  1505, 
which  was  made  for  her  son  Fadrique, 
in  Genoa,  1519,  by  Pace  G«zini.  It 
was  mutilated  by  the  French,  by  whom 
the  splendid  bronze  of  this  Fadrique 
was  destroyed,  when  Soult  converted 
the  Cartuja  into  a  barrack  :  one  largp 
flat  monumental  engraved  brass  only 
escaped  —the  effigy  of  his  nephew  Fa- 
drique^  ob.  1571,  viceroy  of  Naples, 
where  it  is  conjectured  that  it  was  ex- 
ecuted. For  further  details  consult 
Una  Visita  d  la  Universidad.  A.  M. 
de  Cisneros  y  Lanura,  Seville,  1853. 

Seville,  in  good  old  times,  contained 
more  than  140  churches,  filled  with 
objects  of  piety,  art,  and  value ;  many 
were  plundered  and  pulled  down  by 
Soult' 8  sappers,  and  others  since  the 
suppression  of  monasteries  have  shared 
a  similar  fate.  These  establishments 
were  well  endowed,  and  afforded  a  fesr 
tival  and  spectacle  of  some  kind  ov 
other  for  almost  eveiy  day  in  the  year, 
and,  in  fact,  monopolized  the  time  and 
relaxation  of  the  people.  There  are 
three  kinds  of  reUgious  days  or  festi- 
vals :  the  first  are  called  Mestas  de  prer- 
ceptOy  on  which  no  sort  of  work  may. 
be  done ;  the  second  are  Mestas  de. 
concefo,  which  might  and  ought  to  be 
held  sacred  also ;  the  third  are  Fiedas 
de  medio  trab(0Oy  half  holidays,  when 
work  is  permitted  on  condition  of  hav- 
ing first  heard  a  mass ;  the  scholar 
may  compare  the  ancient  Dies  Festi — 
et  Profesti  (see  Macrob.  Sat.  i.  16 ; 
Virg.  Georg.  i.  268).  M.  Soult  arrested 
all  this  prodigious  and  pious  idhng : 
first,  by  sapping  the  religious  principle 
of  belief ;  secondly,  by  knocking  down 
the  buildings,  and  seizing  the  fiinds  by 
which  thehoUday  shows  were  supported^ 


198 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — CHURCHES. 


Sect.  II. 


Among  the  most  interesting  old 
churches  which  survive,  the  ecclesiolo- 
gist  may  still  visit  San  Lorenzo  :  here  is 
a  "Concepcion"  by  F.  Pacheco,  1624 ; 
an  "  Annunciation"  by  Pedro  de  Yille- 
gas  Marmolejo,  who  lies  buried  here, 
with  an  epitaph  vmtten  by  Arias  Mon- 
tano.  Here  also  is  buried  the  prolific 
priest  Juan  Bustamente,ob.  1678,  setat. 
125  ;  this  true  Fad/re  was  father  of  42 
legitimate  and  9  natural  children.  In 
the  Retahlo  are  4  medallions  and  a  San 
Lorenzo,  by  Montanes,  by  whom  also  is 
NueHro  Senor  de  gran  Poder^  a  superb 
graven  image. 

In  the  Colegioy  or  ancient  university, 
de  Maese  Rodrigo,  so  called  from  the 
founder,  Eodrigo  Fernandez  de  San-, 
taella,  1505,  are  or  were  some  injured 
pictures  by  Zurbaran.  The  portrait  of 
the  founder,  by  Zurbaran,  has  been  en- 
tirely repainted  by  Bejarano.  Readers 
of  Cervantes  should  look  at  the  Mar- 
morillos,  mentioned  in  the  Sinconete 
y  Cortadillo* 

San  Clemente  contains  a  splendid 
alerce  roof,  and  a  plateresque  high 
altar  by  Montanes,  and  a  portrait  of 
St.  Ferdinand  by  Valdes,and  2  pictures 
of  him  by  Pacheco :  the  AzuUfos  are 
curious,  and  of  the  date  1588.  Observe 
the  grand  and  powerful  St.  John  the 
Baptist,  carved  by  Jaspar  Nunez  Del- 
gado,  and  painted  by  Pacheco. 

San  Miguel  is  very  ancient;  the 
statue  of  the  tutelar  is  either  by  Rol- 
dan  or  his  daughter ;  observe  the  pil- 
lars and  capitals,  and  the  Christ,  by 
Montanes,  bearing  his  cross  ;  it  is  one 
of  his  finest  works,  and  is  called  SI 
Padre  Jesus  de  la  Pasion,  It  has  an 
especial  cofradia  for  its  worship  and 
custody.  The  pici;ures  called  "Ra- 
phael and  Vandyke  "  are  bad  copies. 

The  magnificent  ch.  of  the  convent 
of  St.  Pablo  has  been  recently  appro- 
priated to  the  parish :  it  contains 
paintings  by  Arteaga,  and  frescoes  by 
Lucas  Valdes,  and  some  fine  Pasos. 

In  San  Andres  is  a  "  Concepcion  " 
by  Montanes,  with  many  small  pic- 
tures by  Villegas. 

In  S(m  Alberto  is  a  Via  Crucis,  said 
to  be  by  Cano,  and  several  Pachecos } 


the  glorious  JRetahlo,  by  Roldan,  was 
pulled  down  by  the  French  and  sold 
as  wood  for  firmg,  when  Soult  turned 
the  ch.  into  a  cartridge-manufactory. 

The  tower  of  San  Pedro  is  Moorish  j 
observe  the  artesonado  roof  and  the  fine 
Retahlo :  the  pictiu^s  by  Campana 
have  been  repainted.  The  "  Delivery 
of  St.  Pet^"  is  by  Roelas. 

San  Juan  de  la  Palma  was  a  Moor- 
ish mosque  dedicated  to  the  Baptist ; 
the  Arabic  inscription  at  the  entrance 
records  that  "this  great  temple  was 
rebuilt  in  1080  by  Axataf."  The  cross 
occupies  the  site  of  the  palm,  under 
which  the  dead  were  buried.  One  of 
the  corpses,  in  1537,  hearing  a  rich 
Jew  say  that  the  mother  of  Ood  was 
not  a  Virgin,  rose  from  his  grave  and 
denounced  him  to  the  Inquisition,  who 
burnt  the  sceptic  and  confiscated  his 
property.  Inside  is  a  "  Crucifixion" 
by  Campana,  early  and  hard,  and  an 
infant  Christ  by  Montanes. 

In  San  Isidoro  is  "  M  Fransito,^*  or 
the  death  of  the  tutelar  saint,  the 
masterpiece  of  Roelas,  a  very  great 
master,  although  much  less  known 
and  appreciated  than  he  deserves: 
observe  the  gray  heads,  the  Correg- 
giesque  flesh  tints,  so  much  studied  by 
JVIuriUo,  and  the  admirable  composi- 
tion. The  lower  portion  is  the  finest, 
and  the  heads  are  evidently  portraits. 
Here  also  are  an  indifferent  *^  St.  An- 
thony "  and  "  St.  Paul,"  by  Campana, 
both  repainted,  and  some  pictures  by 
Valdes :  the  SI  Cireneo  is  carved  by 
Bernardo  Ghijon. 

In  Santa  Maria  la  Planca,  a  syna- 
gogue down  to  1391,  are  some  granite 
columns,  thought  to  be  Roman.  Soult 
plundered  it  of  the  5  Murillos,  leaving 
only  by  him  a  "  Last  Supper,"  in  his 
JHo  style.  Here  is  a  "  Dead  Christ," 
by  L.  de  Vargas ;  very  fine  and  Flo- 
rentine, but  cruelly  injured  and  neg- 
lected. 

The  Colegiata  San  Salnador  con- 
tinued in  its  original  mosque  form 
down  to  1669,  when  it  was  rebuilt  in 
the  worst  Churriguerismo,  and  after- 
wards still  more  disfigured  by  Cayetano 
Acosta,  by  whom  is  the  abominable 


Andalucia.         route  7. — Seville — plaza  del  duque. 


199 


Transfiguration;  the  image  of  San 
Cristobal  is  by  Montanes,  those  of  Sa. 
Bufina  and  Sa.  Justa  are  by  F.  D. 
Comejo.  The  Fatio  was  the  original 
Moorish  court :  here  is  a  miraculous 
crucifix,  JSl  Crista  de  los  Desamparor 
dos,  where  countless  pictures  and 
"  votive  tablets  "  are  hung  up  by  those 
relieved  by  its  miracles,  as  in  the  days 
of  Horace  and  TibuUus.  The  sick  come 
here  for  cure,  and  suspend  legs,  arms, 
and  models  of  the  parts  benefited,  made 
of  wax,  which  become  the  fee  of  the 
priest ;  and  from  the  number  it  would 
seem  that  he  has  more  practice,  and 
effects  more  cures,  than  the  regular 
Sangrados ;  but  it  must  be  remembered 
that  those  who  are  not  cured  but  die, 
make  no  signs. 

Sam  Vicente  was  founded  in  300. 
Here,  in  421,  Gunderic,  entering  to 
plunder,  was  repulsed  by  fiends.  Here 
San  Isidoro  died,  a.d.  636 :  the  affect- 
ing account,  by  Bedenipto,  an  eye- 
witness, is  printed  in  the  i^sp,  Sagr* 
ix.  402.  Outside  is  painted  the  tutelar 
with  his  fanuliar  crow  holding  a  pitch? 
fork  in  his  mouth:  a  rudder  would 
have  been  more  appropriate  (see  p. 
130).  But  these  attendant  birds  are 
an  old  story — Juno  had  a  cuckoo  on 
her  sceptre  (Paus.  ii.  17.  4),  Jupiter 
preferred  an  eagle,  Esculapius  a  cock. 
Inside  is  a  painting  of  Christ  by  Mo- 
rales, and  some  large  pictures  by  Fran- 
cisco de  Varela. 

In  San  Julian  is  a  fr^co  of  St. 
Christopher  by  Juan  Semctis  de  Castro, 
1484 ;  it  was  barbarously  repainted  in 
1828.  Under  some  shutters  to  the  L 
is  a  "Holy  Family"  by  him,  which 
has  escaped  better,  and  is  one  of  the 
oldest  paintings  in  Seville:  the  kneeling 
figure  is  one  of  the  Tous  Monsalvez 
family,  who  were  buried  here,  and  to 
whom  the  Virgin  appeared  on  a  broom- 
bush  ;  hence  she  is  called  de  la  Iniesta. 
Observe  the  Bey'as,  made  of  votive 
chains  of  captives  deUvered  by  her  in- 
terference. Catenam  ex  voto  Laribus 
— so  the  Phialeans  offered  their  chains 
to  their  goddess  (Paus.  i.  68).  There 
is  a  curious  old  folio  on  her  legend. 
The  **  Concepcion"  at  the  altar  is,  some  , 


say,  by  Cano.  The  plateresque  Setahlo 
has  a  fine  painting  of  Santa  Lucia,  the 
patroness  of  eyes  (lux,  light).  In  the 
church  of  this  Santa  Lucia,  once  a 
mosque,  is  a  "  Martyrdom  of  the  Pa? 
troness,"  by  Eoelas,  and  a  sweet  Con- 
ception, attributed  to  Cano. 

San  JEsteban,  once  a  Mosarabic 
church,  contains  specimens  by  Zur? 
baran,  and  a  fine  "  Christ  bearing  the 
Cross,"  by  Montanes. 

The  tower  of  San  Marcos  may  be 
ascended,  as  Cervantes  often  did,  to  see 
the  house  near  it  of  his  beloved  Isabella. 

In  San  Martin  is  a  "Descent  from 
the  Cross,"  ascribed  to  Cano;  but  it 
is  a  Roman  painting,  and  inscribed 
"Jo,  Guy.  Homo.  f.  ano  1608;"  ob- 
serve the  chapel  of  Juan  Sanchez  Q-alr 
lego,  bmlt  in  1500,  and  repaired  in 
1614.  In  the  Metablo  are  some  early 
paintings  by  Herrera  el  Viejo, 

The  admirers  of  Boelas  should  visit 
La  Academia,  where  is  a  "Concep- 
cion "  by  him  equal  to  Guido. 

H".B.  Several  pictures  by  Roelas  exist 
at  Olivares,  4  L.  N.W.  of  Seville,  and 
a  pleasant  ride.  He  was  canon  of  that 
church.  There  he  painted,  in  1624,  a 
"  Birth  of  Christ,"  now  much  injured  ; 
an  "  Adoration,"  an  "  Annunciation," 
a  "Marriage  of  the  Virgin,"  the 
"  Death  of  St.  Joseph ;"  but  although 
his  last,  they  are  not  his  best  works. 
Here  he  died,  April  23,  1625. 

The  Calle  de  la  Siisrpe,  the  Bond? 
street  of  Seville,  leads  to  the  Plaza 
del  Duque,  where  the  great  Dukes  of 
Medina  Sidonia  had  their  palace.  This 
central  square  i»  planted,  and  forms 
the  fashionable  nocturnal  promenade 
during  the  summer  months,  and  which 
is  truly  southron  and  striking.  It  is  a 
miniature  Vauxhall,  minus  the  price  of 
admission  or  the  lamps ;  but  the  dusk 
is  all  the  better  for  those  who,  like  glow- 
worms, need  no  other  light  but  their 
bright  eyeSjwhich  never  sparkle  brighter 
than  by  night,  and  it  has  not  yet  been 
settled  whether  the  fair  sex  of  Seville 
blushes  or  not  in  the  dark :  certain  it 
is,  that  the  moon,  which  cannot  ripen 
grapes,  here  ripens  love,  and  in  these 
torrid  climes  the  rays  of  the  cold  chaste 


200 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^LA  FERLi. 


Sect.  II. 


orb  of  Dian  are  considered  more  dan- 
gerous than  the  tahardillo  or  coup  de 
soleil ;  "  mcu  quema  la  Luna,  que  el 
Sol"  the  moon  sets  more  on  fire  than 
the  sun,  so  propinquity  is  doubly  ha- 
zardous, since  the  Spanish  man  is 
peculiarly  combustible,  Jire  itself  ac- 
cording to  the  proverb,  and  the  woman 
being  towy  the  smallest  puff  of  the  evil 
one  creates  an  awful  conflagration. 

*'  El  hombre  etfuego^  la  muger  atopa, 
Viene  el  diatHo  y  sopla," 

Continuing  from  this  pla^a,  walk  by 
the  ch.  of  San  Vicente  to  the  Alameda 
Viejaf  the  ancient  but  liow  deserted 
walk  of  Seville,  The  water  of  the  foun- 
tain here,  del  Arzobispo,  is  excellent, 
and  the  best  in  Seville.  Look  at  the 
Boman  pillars  and  statues  (see  p.  172). 
Here  reside  the  horse-dealers  and 
jockeys,  and  cattle-dealing  continually 
goes  on. 

June  is  the  great  month  for  Veladas, 
vigils,  and  wakes,  nocturnal  obser- 
vances kept  on  the  eve  preceding  the 
holy  day :  the  chief  is  that  on  the  24th, 
St.  John's  day,  and  is  celebrated  on 
this  old  Alameda,  and  is  proverbially 
merry : — 

**  Lade  San  Juam  en  Sevilla 
Et  alegre  d  nuiraviUa." 

This  St.  John's,  our  midsimimer  eve,  is 
or  was  devoutly  dedicated  to  flirtation 
by  both  sexes,  who  go  or  ought  to  go  out 
at  daybreak  to  gather  vorvain,  eoger  la 
verbena,  which  represents  in  Spain  the 
magical  fern-seed  of  our  forefathers. 
Bonfires  are  lighted,  in  sign  of  rejoicings 
— ^like  the  hon-feu  of  our  Q-uy  Fauxes — 
over  and  through  which  the  lower 
classes  leap ;  all  this  is  the  exact  manner 
by  which  the  ancients  celebrated  the 
entranoe  of  the  sim  into  the  summer 
solstice.  The  fires  of  Cybele  were  kin- 
dled at  midnight.  The  jumping  over 
them  was  not  njerely  a  feat  of  activity, 
but  of  meritorious  devotion  (Ovid. 
Fast  iv.  727)  : 

"  Certe    ego    transilii    positas    ter   ordine 
fiammos." 

« 

This  custom  of  passing  through  the 
fire  of  Baal  or  Moloch  was  expressly 
bidden  in  the  year  680,  at  the  5th 


council  of  Constantinople,  to  which  the 
younger  classes  of  Sevillians  are  as 
scandalously  inattentive  as  the  Irish 
at  their  similar  Baal-tinn^.  But  civi- 
lisation is  sapping  creeds  and  practices 
in  Spain. 

To  the  left  of  the  foimtain  is  a 
barrack  of  tattered  invalids,  which  once 
was  a  convent  of  Jesuits,  and  when 
that  order  was  suppre&ed  was  given 
up  to  the  Inquisition.  The  edifice,  ra- 
ther cheerful  than  forbidding,  partakes 
more  of  the  attraction  of  its  first  pro- 
prietors  than  of  the  horror  of  its  second. 
Dismantled  by  the  populace,  it  contains 
no  record  of  its  dungeons,  and  tor- 
ture-rooms ;  but,  &st  hastening  to 
ruin,  is  in  all  respects  a  fit  abode  for  its 
inmates. 

Turning  to  the  rt.  is  La  Feria,  where 
a  fair  is  held  every  Thursday,  which, 
all  should  visit ;  it  is  the  precise  Soock 
e  juma  of  Cairo ;  the  street  leads  to  the 
Plaza  de  la  Fncamacion — ^now  the 
market  place,  to  construct  which  the 
French  pulled  down  a  convent  dedi- 
cated to  the  Incarnation.  Here  the 
naturalist  will  study  the  fish,  flesh, 
fruits,  and  fowls ;  the  fish  and  game 
are  excellent,  as  is  also  the  pork,  when 
fattened  by  the  autumnal  acorn,  the< 
bellota.  Instinct  teaches  these  feree 
natursB  to  fatten  themselves  on  the 
good  things  which  a  bountiful  nature 
provides.  Those  meats  which  require 
artificial  care,  and  the  attention  of  man» 
are  very  far  infoior.  Observe  the  pur- 
chases made,  the  two-ounce  "joints  " 
of  meat  or  carrion,  for  the  poverty- 
stricken  olla,  parsimonious  as  in  the 
time  of  Justin  (xliv.  2).  It  must  be 
remembered,  that  in  this  burning  clime 
less  animal  food,  which  generates  calo- 
ric, is  necessary  than  in  the  cold  north. 
Notwithstanding,  the  Spanish  proverb 
considers  the  man  who  dines  in  Se- 
viQe  as  especially  favoured  by  heaven, 
'^  A  quien  Dios  quiere  hien,  en  Sevilla 
le  da  de  comer"  few  of  our  English 
readers  will  think  so. 

In  the  Calle  del  Candilejo  is  a  bust 
of  Don  Pedro,  placed,  it  is  said,  in 
memorial  of  his  having  here  stabbed  a 
man.     The  JBey  JugHciero  quartered 


Andalwia, 


BOUTE  7. — SEVILLE — LA  CU5A. 


201 


himself  in  effigy  onlt/.  His  and  Lord 
Byron's  "jfriend,"  Don  Juan,  was  a 
Sevillian  majo,  and  a  true  hidalgo. 
The  family  name  was  Tenorio.  He 
lived  in  a  house  now  belonging  to  the 
nuns  of  San  Leand/rOy  in  which  there 
is  Bome  good  carving,  although  the 
French  did  infinite  mischief  there. 
(For  his  real  pedigree,  see  our  paper  in 
the  *Quar.  Rev.'  cxvii.  82;  consult 
also  the  Burlador  de  Sevilla  or  Convi- 
dado  de  Piedra,  by  Tirso  de  MoUna, 
with  Ochoa's  preface  in  the  Tesoro 
del  Teatro  JEspanol.  Paris,  1838; 
vol.  iv.  74)  ;  the  Tenorios  had  a  chapel 
in  the  Franciscan  convent,  where  the 
murdered  Oomendador  was  buried,  and 
to  which  Don  Jua/n  fled,  when  the 
monks  killed  him,  and  trumped  up  the 
story  of  his  Devil-death:  the  chapel 
and  the  gtaiue  were  destroyed  when 
the  convent  was  burnt. 

Do  not  fail  to  look  at  the  extraor- 
dinary Azulejo  portal  of  Santa  Paula, 
of  the  time  of  the  Catholic  kings ;  the 
carvings  in  the  chapel  are  by  Cano. 
The  EVench  carried  off  all  the  pictures. 
Here  are  sepulchres  of  Juan,  constable 
of  Portugal,  and  Isabel  his  wife,  the 
founders. 

The  foundling  hospital,  or  I/a  Cuna, 
the  cradle,  as  it  is  called  in  Spain,  is  in 
the  Calle  de  la  Ouna ;  a  marble  tablet  is 
thus  inscribed,  near  an  aperture  left  for 
charitable  donations  : — "  Quoniam  pa- 
ter meus  et  mater  mea  deliquerunt 
me  Dominus  autem  assumpsit"  (Ps. 
xxvii.  10).  A  wicket  door,  el  tomo, 
is  pierced  in  the  wall,  which  opens  on 
being  tapped,  to  receive  the  sinless 
children  of  sin,  whom  a  nurse  sits  up 
at  night  to  take  in.  This,  formerly  little 
better  than  a  charnel-house,  and  where 
sinless  childrenof  sinandinnocentswere 
massacred  (see  *  Gatherings,'  p.  223),  has 
been  taken  in  charge  by  some  benevolent 
ladies,  assisted  by  Sisters  of  Charity, 
and,  although  the  shadow  of  death 
still  hovers  over  this  so-called  cradle 
of  life,  is  better  conducted :  the  inade- 
quate funds  are  much  increased,  a  duty 
of  a  real  being  levied  for  its  support  on 
Gvetjfanega  of  com  sold  in  the  market. 

Seville   is    surroimded  with    seven 


suburbs ;  the  circuit  of  the  Moorish 
walls,  about  a  league,  with  its  gates  and 
towers,  once  numbering  166,  contains 
many  objects  of  first-rate  interest.  We 
shall  commence  going  out  from  the 
Calle  de  lasAmuM,  by  the  PuertaBeal, 
the  Royal  Ghkte,  through  which  St. 
Ferdinand  entered  in  triumph.  It  was 
called  by  the  Moors  Ooles,  which  the 
SeviUians,  who  run  wild  about  Hercules, 
consider  to  be  a  corruption  from  that 
name :  it  is  simply  the  gate  of  Ghtle9,  a 
Moorish  suburb  (Conde,  iii.  35).  The 
present  gate  is  built  in  the  Roman  style, 
and  is  disproportionate  to  the  site. 
Emerging  from  a  dip  to  the  rt.  is  the 
Colegio  de  Merced,  or  San  Laureano, 
which  was  pillaged  and  desecrated  by 
Soult's  troops,  and  made  a  prison  for 
galley-Blaves  by  the  Spaniards ;  behind 
it  are  the  ruins  of  the  hoi^se  of  Fer- 
nando, son  of  the  great  Columbus. 
The  suburb  is  called  Las  Sumeros, 
supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  the 
Roman  naval  arsenal.  Here  were  the 
tunnels  and  Moorish  dock-yard,  and 
residence  of  fishermen,  It  is  now 
tenanted  by  gipsies,  the  Zincali;  Seville 
in  their  Romany  is  called  XTlilla  and 
Safacoro,  and  the  Guadalquiver,  Len 
Baro,  or  the  Gh»at  River.  Zev^a  is 
their  darling  city,  where  so  much  is 
congenial  to  their  habits.  Here  always 
resides  some  old  hag  who  will  get  up  a 
Jkncion,  or  gipsy  dance  (see  *  Gather- 
ings,' p.  327).  Herewillbe  seen  the  dark- 
eyed  callees — q^'os  con  granfuego  y  in' 
tendon — and  their  lovers,  armed  with 
ahears,  para  monrabar.  Here  lives  the 
true  blood,  the  errate,  who  abhor  the 
rest  of  mankind,  the  husnS.  Sorrow's 
accurate  vocabulary  is  the  key  to  the 
gitonesque  heart,  for  according  to  him 
they  have  hearts  and  souls.  As  the 
existence  of  this  work  of  the  Gil  Bias 
of  gipsies  is  unknown  to  them,  they 
will  be  disarmed  when  they  find  the 
stranger  speaking  their  own  tongue ; 
thus  those  who  have  a  wish  to  see  the 
fancy  and  majo  life  at  Seville,  which  is 
much  the  fashion  among  maiiy  of  the 
yoimg  nobles,  will  possess  la  cle  du 
caveau,  and  singular  advantages.  Our 
younger  Britons  must  be  cautious,  fc 

k3 


202 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^THE  M:PERS. 


Sect.  II. 


as  Cervantes  says,  "  These  gipsies  are 
I  ut  a  good-for-nothing  people,  and  only 
bom  to  pick  and  steal ;"  they  are  "  fish- 
hooks of  purses,"  as  Solorqano  has  it. 
The  pretty  gipsy  lasses  are  popular; 
they  traffic  on  sure  wants ;  they  pro- 
phesy money  to  Spanish  men,  and  hus- 
bands to  Spanish  women ;  and  in  spite 
of  their  cheating  words,  a  little  will 
stick  with  listeners  who  readily  believe 
what  they  vehemently  wish. 

Turning  to  the  rt.,  between  the  river 
banks  and  the  walls,  is  the  Patin  de  las 
Damas,  a  raised  rampart  and  planted 
walk,  made  in  1773.  The  city  on  this 
side  is  much  exposed  to  inundations. 
Opposite  in  its  orange-groves  is  Mr. 
Pickman*s  pottery — once  the  celebrated 
Cartuja  convent ;  beyond  rise  the  towers 
of  ItaUca  and  the  purple  hills  of  the 
Sierra  Morena, 

Passing  the  gate  of  San  Juan  is  La 
Sarqueta,  or  the  ferry-boat.  In  the 
ChozaSy  opposite,  true  ichthyophiles  go, 
like  herons  on  the  bank,  to  eat  the  shad, 
Savalo,  the  Moorish  Shebbel.  Los  Hue- 
vos  and  Savalo  asado  are  the  correct 
thing,  but  this  rich  fish  is  unwholesome 
in  summer.  Here  also  1^1  Sollo,  the 
sturgeon,  is  caught,  one  of  which  the 
cathedral  chapter  used  to  send  totheroyal 
table,  reservingthe  many  others  for  their 
own.  The  walls  now  turn  to  the  rt.  Half 
a  mile  outside  is  the  once  noble  convent 
of  St.  Jerome,  called,  from  its  pleasant 
views.  La  Buena  Fista.  The  fine  church 
was  used  for  the  furnaces  of  a  bottle 
manufactory ;  that  has  bxurst  since,  and 
become  bankrupt,  but  the  smoke  black- 
ening the  sacred  pile  has  left  the  mark 
of  the  beast ;  it  had  previously  been 
turned  into  a  school,  which  also  failed. 
The  JPatio,  in  Doric  and  Ionic  worthy 
of  Herrera,  was  designed  by  two  monks, 
Bartolome  de  Calzadilla  and  Felipe  de 
Moron,  in  1603.  Observe  the  spacious 
red  marble  staircase,  and  the  rich  plas- 
ter pendentives  to  the  ceilings  in  the 
first  floor  leading  to  the  mirador. 
Here  Axataf  took  his  last  feirewell  of 
Seville,  when  St.  Ferdinand  entered. 
Betuming  by  gardens  hedged  with  aloes 
and  tall  whispering  canes,  is  San  La- 
the Leper  Hospital  foimded  in 


1284 :  the  term^a/o,  leper,  the  Hebrew 
chaphaph,  was  one  of  the  5  actionable 
defamatory  words  of  Spanish  law. 
Observe  the  terra  cotta  ornaments  on 
the  Doric  facade.  The  interior  is 
miserable,  as  the  funds  of  this  true 
Lazar-house  were  either  appropriated 
by  the  government  or  converted  by  the 
trustees  chiefly  to  their  own  use.  There 
are  generally  some  twenty  patients. 
Here  will  be  seen  cases  of  elephantiasis, 
the  hideous  swelled  leg,  a  disease  com- 
mon in  Barbary  and  not  rare  in  Anda- 
lucia,  and  which  is  extended  by  the 
charity-imploring  patient  in  the  way  of 
the  passenger,  whose  eye  is  startled  and 
pained  by  what  at  first  seems  a  huge 
cankered  boa-constrictor.  These  hos- 
pitals were  always  placed  outside  the 
cities  :  thus  for  this  purpose  our  St. 
James's  Palace  was  built  j  so,  among 
the  Jews,  "  lepers  were  put  out  of  the 
camp"  (Numb.  v.  2).  The  plague- 
stricken  were  compelled  to  dwell  alone 
(Lev.  xiii.  46).  The  word  Lepero^  at 
Mexico,  is  equivalent  to  "  beggar."  He , 
is  the  LazzaroTte  of  Naples,  that  Para- 
dise of  idlers. 

A  Moorish  causeway,  raised  in  order 
to  be  a  dam  against  inundations,  leads 
to  L/a  MacarefM,  the  huge  La  Sangre 
Hospital  rising  to  the  rt. ;  this  is  the 
suburb  of  the  poor  and  ■  agricultural 
labourers.  The  tattered  and  parti- 
coloured denizens  of  all  ages  and  sexes, 
the  children  often  stark  naked,  vUus  du 
climat  as  in  Barbary,  and  like  bronze 
Cupids,  cluster  outside  their  hovels  in 
the  sun.  Their  carts,  implements,  and 
animals  are  all  pictures  ;  observe  the 
primitive  carts,  true  jplaustray  netted 
with  esparto,  and  the  patient  resigned 
oxen  with  lustrous  eye,  so  scriptural 
and  sculptural,  and  mark  the  flower* 
adorned  frontales  between  the  horns  ; 
everything  falls  into  a  painter's  group, 
a  tableau  vivant,  and  particularly  as 
regards  that  Entomological  Society 
which  forms  by  far  the  most  numerous 
and  national  of  Spanish  naturalists ; 
they  pursue  certain  "  small  deer,"  caza 
menor,  for  which  a  regular  battue  is 
always  going  on  in  the  thick  preserves 
of  the  women's  hair«    Here  Murillo 


Andcducia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^LA  SANQRE. 


203 


came  for  subject  and  colour ;  here  are 
the  rich  yellows  and  browns  in  which 
he  revelled ;  here  are  beggars,  imps,  and 
urchins,  squaJlid  and  squalling,  who, 
with  their  parents,  when  simply  tran- 


recently  somewhat  improved  in  that 
respect,  and  much  boasted  of  here. 

Retiurning  to  the  city  walls,  observe 
la  Barhaca/nay  the  Barbican,  Arabic^ 
Sab-el'canay  the  gate  of  the  moat,  or 


scribed  by  his  faithful  hand,  seem  to  enclosure.    The  circumvallation  all  the 


walk  out  of  the  frames,  for  their  life  and 
reality  carries  every  spectator  away. 

Continuing  the  walk,  turn  1.  to  the 
enormous  Hospital  de  la  Sangre,  or  de 
las  dnco  Llagas^  the  5  bleeding  wounds 
of  our  Saviour,  which  are  sculptured 
like  bunches  of  grapes.    Blood  is  an 
ominous  name  for  this  house  of  San- 
gradOf  whose  lancet,  like  the  Spanish 
knife,  gives  little  quarter  j  neither  does 
this  low  quarter,  exposed  to  inunda- 
tions and  consequent  fevers,  seem  well 
chosen  as  a  site  for  a  hospital.     This 
edifice  was  erected  in  1546  by  Martin 
de  Ghkinza  and  Heman  Buiz.    The  in- 
tention of  the  foundress,  OataUna  de 
Bibera,  was  more  perfect  than  the  per- 
formance of  her  successors  ;  after  her 
death  the  funds  were  misapplied,  only 
a  fourth -part  of  the  plan  was  finished, 
and  the  building  remains,  and  may  re- 
main, unfinish^,    although    a   pious 
person,  nsasiediAnduezay  has  left  legacies 
for  the  purpose. 

The  S.  and  principal  facade,  600  ft. 
long,  presents  a   noble    architectural 
appearance  of  the  classical  Ionic  and 
Doric  style.    The  portal  is  one  of  the 
good  architectural  bits  in  Seville.    The 
interior  Patio  is  striking;  the  hand- 
some chapel  occupies  the  centre  j  on 
the  front  are  sculptured  medallions  of 
Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  by  Pedro 
Machuca ;  the  chapel  is  a  Latin  cross, 
with  Ionic  piUars  ;  the  Metablo  of  the 
high  altar  was  designed  by  Maeda  in 
1600,   and  gilt  by  Alonso   Vazquez, 
whose  pictures  in  it  have  suffered  from 
neglect  and  repainting.     Observe  the 
"  Crucifixion,"  with  the  "  Magdalen," 
and  eight  Virgins,  by  Zurbaran,  of  no 
great  merit.     Invalid  pictures,  at  all 
events,  were  not  restored  in  this  hos- 
pital, as  many  were  used  as  floor-cloths. 
The   interior    management  of  this 
hospital,  now  the   principal    one    of 
Seville,  is  hardly  yet  a  thing  of  which 
Medical  Spain  can  be  proud,  although 


way  to  the  gate  of  Osario — so  called 
because  leading  to  the  Moorish  burial- 
groimd — and  admiralty  preserved,  is 
built  of  tapia,  with  square  towers  and 
battlements,  or  almenasj  which  girdle 
SeviQe  with  a  lace-like  fringe.     Near 
the  Cordova  gate,   and  opposite  the 
hermitage  of  San  SiermenegildOf  where 
Herrera  el  Viejo  was  imprisoned,  is  the 
Capuchin  convent  of  Santas  Jn^fij^a 
and  JSttfinay  built  on  the  spot  where 
the  lions  would  not  eat  these  ladies 
patronesses  of  Seville.      The  church 
was  long  adorned  by  the  Murillos  now 
in  the  Museo ;  and  rich  was  the  treat 
in  our  day  to  see  them  all  hanging  as 
placed  by  the  painter  himself^  with  the 
bearded  Co'pttchinos  for  ciceronis,  who 
might  have  sat  for  the  original  monks, 
and  who  looked  as  if  they  stepped  from 
the  fran^es,   of  pictures,  which  they 
thus  realised.    Near  the  Puerta  del  Sol, 
the  most  E.  gate,  are  JLos  Trinitarios 
JDescalzos,  the  site  of  the  palace  of  Dio- 
genianus,  where  the  above-mentioned 
Santas  Justina  and  Bufina  were  put  to 
death.     This  fine  convent  was  pillaged 
and  desecrated  by  Soult's  troops.  Pass- 
ing the  long  fantastic  salitres^  the  saltr 
petre  manufactory,  now  abandoned  and 
going  to  ruin,  the  scene  becomes  more 
Hvely  at  the  gate  of  Garmona.     To  the 
1.  is  San  Agustin^  once  full  of  Murillos ; 
M.  Soult,  having  carried  oflF  the  best, 
gutted  the  convent,  and  destroyed  the 
magnificent  sepulchres  of  the  Ponce  de 
Leon  family,  and  rifled  the  graves : 
the  tombs  were  restored  in  1818  by  the 
Coimtess-Duchess  of  Osuna,  and  an 
indignsmt  record  placed  of  these  out- 
rages against  the  dead.    Next,  this  con- 
vent was  made  a  den  of  thieves,  a  prison 
for  galley-slaves,  and  is  now  become  a 
matting   manufactory,  not  worth   in- 
specting.   This  side  of  Seville  suffered 
somewhat  from  the  bombardment  in 
July,  1843. 

The  long  lines  of  the  aqueduct,  Lof 


204 


ROUTE  7.— SEVILLE — LA  BULA  DE  CRUZADA. 


Sect.  II. 


Cauos  de  Carmona^  now  run  pictu-  i 
resquely  up  to  the  Humilladero  or  Cruz 
del  Catrvpo.  It  was  to  this  spot  in  i 
April  that  all  the  world  used  to  go,  to  i 
behold  the  Majos  return  from  the  Feria  , 
de  Mairena^  before  it  was  shorn  of  its  ' 
glory.  The  next  gate  is  la  Carney  so 
called  because  leading  to  the  shambles. 
To  the  1.  is  the  suburb  San  Bernardo, 
which  must  be  visited ;  the  mounds  of 
earth  are  composed  of  the  collected 
heaps  of  Seville  dust-holes  ;  a  planted 
walk  leads  to  the  Fundiciony  the  low, 
large  artiUery-fcundry  erected  by 
Charles  III.,  who  employed  one  Ma- 
ritz,  a  Swiss,  to  cast  his  cannon ;  once 
one  of  the  finest  in  Europe,  now  it  is  one 
of  the  very  worst :  power  of  motion  is 
obtained  by  mules  or  rude  maquiTuis  de 
aan^re,  engines  of  blood,  not  steam,  and 
murderous  is  the  waste  of  animal  la- 
bour. Sonlt  reorganised  this  establish- 
ment. Here  wer^  cast,  by  a  Catalan, 
those  mortars,  i,  la  Yilloatrois,  with 
which  Victor  did  not  take  Cadiz,  while 
one  of  them  was  taken  and  now  orna- 
ments St.  James's  Park.  Soult,  before 
he  fled,  ordered  as  a  parting  legacy  the 
foundry  to  be  blown  up,  but  the  mine 
accidentally  failed,  llie  furnaces  were 
then  filled  with  iron,  and  with  those 
cannon  which  he  could  not  remove ; 
but  the  amalgamated  masses  were  sub- 
sequently got  out  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  remain  as  evidence  of  his  culinary 
talents.  The  relic  is  called  la  torta 
Fra/ncesa,  or  French  omelette ;  a  flint 
was  also  plac^  in  the  wheel  of  a  pow- 
der-miU,  which,  when  set  in  motion, 
struck  against  a  steel;  and  by  this 
cowardly  contrivance,  Colonel  Duncan 
and  other  men  were  blown  to  atoms. 
(Condor's  *  Spain,*  ii.  14.)  The  splen- 
did cinque-cento  artillery,  cast  in  Italy 
at  a  time  when  form  and  grace  were 
breathed  even  over  instruments  of 
death,  were  "  removed  "  by  Angoul^me 
in  1828.  The  Bourbon  was  the  ally  of 
Ferdinand  VII, ;  Soult  was,  at  least, 
his  enemy  f 

In  this  suburb  was  the  celebrated 

Forta  Celt  (CobU),  founded  in  1450; 

here  was  printed  the  Bula  de  Cruzada, 

i*«»  called  because  granted  by  Innocent 


III.,  to  keep  the  Spanish  crusaders  in 
fighting  condition,  by  letting  them  eat 
meat  rations  in  Lent  whenthey  could 
get  them.  This,  the  bull,  la  JBula,  is 
announced  with  grand  ceremony  every 
January,  when  a  new  one  is  taken  out, 
like  a  game  certificate,  by  all  who  wish 
to  sport  with  flesh  and  fowl  with  a  safe 
conscience ;  and  by  the  paternal  kind- 
ness of  the  Pope,  instead  of  paying 
3Z.  Ids.  6d.,  for  the  small  sum  oidos 
realesy  6e2.,  a  man,  woman,  or  child 
may  obtain  this  benefit  of  clergy  and 
cookery :  but  woe  awaits  the  uncertifi- 
cated poacher — ^treadmills  for  life  are 
a  fSarce — ^perdition  catches  his  soul,  the 
last  sacraments  are  denied  to  him  on 
his  deathbed ;  the  first  question  asked 
by  the  priest  is  not  if  he  repents  of  his 
sins,  but  whether  he  has  his  bida ;  and 
in  all  notices  of  indulgences,  &c.,  8e  ha 
de  tener  la  hula  is  appended.  The  bull 
acts  on  all  fleshly,  but  sinful  comforts, 
Uke  soda  on  indigestion :  it  neutralizes 
everything  except  heresy.  The  contract 
in  1846  was  for  10,000  reams  of  paper 
to  print  them  on  at  Toledo,  and  the  sale 
produced  about  200,000^. ;  the  breaking 
one  fiEMt  during  Lent  used  to  inspire 
more  horror  than  breaking  any  two 
commandments ;  it  is  said  that  Span- 
iards now  fa»t  lessr— but  still  the 
staunch  and  starving  are  disgusted  at 
Protestant  appetites  in  eating  meat 
breakfasts  during  Lent.  It  sometimes 
disarms  them  by  saying  "Tengo  mi 
hula  para  todo."  M.  Soult  robbed 
the  till,  burnt  the  printing-presses,  and 
converted  everythmg  into  a  ruin  (see 
*  Ghitherings,*p.  243,  and  *  Compendio  de 
las  tres  Gracias  de  la  Santa  Cruzada, 
Fr°.  Alonso  Perez  de  Lara,  Mad.  1610). 
The  Farroquia  de  San  Bernardo 
contains  a  superb  "  Last  Judgment," 
by  the  dashing  Herrera  el  Viejo ;  a 
"Last  Supper,"  in  the  Sacristia,  by 
Varela,  1622;  and  a  statue  of  the 
"  Tutelar,"  by  Montaues,  and  others  by 
Koldan.  Here  also  is  the  matadero, 
the  slaughter-house,  and  close  by  Fer- 
dinand VII.  founded  his  tauromachian 
imiversity.  These  localities  are  fre- 
quented by  the  Seville  fancy,  whose 
&vourite  and  classical  dishes  of  a  bot\ 


AndcdtLcia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^EL  BARA.TERO. 


205 


of  tripe,  caUos  y  mewudos^  are  here  eaten 
in  perfection.  See  Pliny,  *  N.  H.,'  viii. 
51,  as  to  the  merits  of  the  Callum. 
N.B.  Drink  manzanilla  wine  with  these 
peppery  condiments ;  they  are  highly 
proYocatiye,  and,  like  hunger,  la  Salaa 
de  San  Bernardo,  are  appropriately 
cooked  in  the  parish  of  this  tuteleu* 
of  Spanish  appetite.  The  sunny  flats 
under  the  old  Moorish  walls,  which 
extend  between  the  gates  of  Ca,rmona 
and  La  Came,  are  the  haunts  of  idlers, 
Barateros,  and  gamesters.  The  lower 
classes  of  Spaniards  are  constantly 
gambling  at  cards :  groups  are  to  be 
seen  playing  all  day  long  for  wine, 
love,  or  coppers,  in  the  sun,  or  under 
their  vine-trellisesj  capital  groupings 
uid  studies  for  artists.  There  is  gene- 
rally some  welloknown  cock  of  the  walk, 
a  bully,  or  ffuapo,  who  will  come  up  and 
lay  his  hand  on  the  cards,  and  say,  **  No 
one  shall  play  here  but  with  mine" — 
aqui  no  se  juega  tino  con  mis  barajas. 
If  the  gamblers  are  cowed,  they  giye 
him  dos  cuartos,  a  halfpenny  each.  If, 
however,  one  of  the  challenged  be  a 
spirited  fellow,  he  defies  him.  Aqui 
no  se  cobra  el  barato  aino  con  un  punal 
de  Albacete — "  You  get  no  change  here 
except  out  of  an  Albacete  knife,"  If 
the  aefiance  be  accepted,  vamos  alia  is 
the  answer — "  Let's  go  to  it."  There  is 
an  end  then  of  the  cards :  all  flock  to  the 
more  interesting  ecartS,  Instances  have 
occurred,  where  Greek  meets  Greek,  of 
their  tying  the  two  advanced  feet  tor 
gether,  and  yet  remaining  fencing  with 
knife  and  cloak  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  before  the  blow  be  dealt.  The 
knife  is  held  firmly,  the  thumb  is 
pressed  straight  on  the  blade,  and  cal- 
culated either  for  the  cut  or  thrust, 
to  chip  bread  and  kill  men. 

The  term  Barato  strictly  means  the 
present  which  is  given  to  waiters  who 
bring  a  new  pack  of  cards.  The  origin 
is  Arabic,  Baara,  "  a  voluntary  gift ;" 
in  the  corruption  of  the  Baratero,  it 
has  become  an  involuntary  one ;  now 
the  term  resembles  the  Greek  fia^a^^ag, 
homo  perditus,  whence  the  Boman 
Balatrones,  the  miners  of  markets, 
Barathrumque  MacelU;  our  legal  term 


Barratry  is  derived  from  the  medieval 
Barrateria,  which  Ducange  very  pro- 
perly interprets  as  "  cheating,  foul 
play."  Sancho*s  sham  government  was 
oiBarateria;  Baratar,  in  old  Spanish, 
meant  to  exchange  unfairly,  to  thimble- 
rig,  to  sell  anything  under  its  real 
value,  whence  the  epithet  barato,  cheap. 
The  Baratero  is  quite  a  thing  of  Spain, 
where  personal  prowess  is  cherished. 
There  is  a  Baratero  in  every  raiment, 
ship,  prison,  and  even  among  galley- 
slaves.  For  the  Spanish  knife,  its  use 
and  abuse,  see  A^acete. 

The  open  space  beyond  the  Came, 
and  caU^  el  lUstro,  presents  a  no  less 
national  scene  ou  the  Sabado  Santo, 
which  may  be  considered  a  holiday 
equivalent  to  our  Easter  Monday. 
There  and  then  the  Paschal  lambs  are 
sold,  or  cofderos  de  Bascua,  as  Easter 
is  termed  in  Spanish.  The  bleating 
animals  are  confined  in  pens  of  netted 
rope- work  ;  on  every  side  the  work  of 
slaughter  is  going  on ;  gipsies  erect 
temporary  shambles  on  this  occasion  ; 
groups  of  children  are  everywhere 
leading  away  pet  lambs,  which  are  de- 
corated with  ribbons  and  flowers.  The 
amateur  will  see  in  them  and  in  their 
attitudes  the  Uving  originals  from  which 
Murillo  faithfully  copied  his  St.  Johns 
and  the  infemt  Saviour,  el  divino  Pastor, 
This  buying  and  selling  continues  from 
the  Saturday  until  the  end  of  Monday. 

The  huge  mounds  of  rubbish  oppo- 
site are  composed  of  the  accumulated 
dungholes  of  Seville,  and  under  them 
are  buried  those  who  have  died  of 
plagues,  which  these  Immondezzaios  are 
enough  to  render  endemic ;  they  were 
allowed  to  accumulate,  while  the  clergy 
managed  to  suppress  theatres  to  pre- 
vent recurrence  of  plague,  a  punishment 
from  heaven. 

Returning  to  the  walls  are  the  ca- 
valry barracks,  in  which  men,  horses,  and 
saddles  are  occasionally  wanting.  Now 
the  Alcazar  towers  above  the  battle- 
mented  girdle  of  walls  to  the  rt.  The 
classical  gate,  San  Fernando,  was  built 
in  1760 ;  here  it  was  that  the  Virgin 
miraeulously  introduced  St.  Ferdinand 
into  Seyille  during  the  siege. 


206 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^THE  FABRICA  DE  TABACOS.       Sect.  II. 


To  the  L  is  the  Fabrica  de  Tabacos, 
where  tobacco  is  made  into  snuff  and 
cigars.  The  edifice  has  28  interior 
patios,  and  the  enormous  space  covers 
a  quadrangle  of  662  feet  by  524.  It 
was  finished  in  yile  taste  in  1757  affcer 
plans  of  one  Yandembeer,  a  fantastic 
Dutchman.  It  is  guarded  by  a  moat, 
not  destined  to  prevent  men  getting  in, 
but  cigars  being  smuggled  out.  This 
national  manufactory  may  be  said  to 
be  the  only  genuine  and  flourishing  one 
in  Spain :  it  was  fortified  in  1836 
against  the  Carhsts,  but  the  fyhting 
ended  in  smoke. 

There  are  sometimes  as  many  as  4000 
persons  employed  in   making  cigars, 
and  principally  female :  on  an  average 
2  millions  of  pounds  are  made  in  a  year. 
A  good  workw6man  can  do  in  a  day 
from  ten  to  twelve  bundles,  atados,  each 
of  which  contains  50  cigars  ;  but  their 
tongues  are  busier  than  their  fingers, 
and  more  mischief  is  made  than  cigars. 
Pew  of   them  are  good-looking,    yet 
these  cigarreras  are  among  the  lions  of 
Seville,  and,  like  the  grisettes  of  Paris, 
form  a  class  of  themselves.    They  are 
reputed  to  be  more  impertinent  than 
chaste :  they  used  to  wear  a  particular 
mantilla  de  tira,  which  was  always 
crossed  over  the  face  and  bosom,  allow- 
ing the  upper  part  only  of  most  roguish- 
looking  features  to  peep  out.     In  the 
under-floor  a  fine  rappee  snuff  is  made, 
called  tahaco  de  fraile :  it  is  coloured 
with  red  ahna^ra,  an  earth  brought 
from  the  neighbourhood  of  Cartagena. 
These  "pungent  grains   of  titillating 
dust "   closely  resemble  the  fia-vourite 
mixture  of  the  Moors,  and  one  comes 
out  powdered  as  with  rhubarb,  and 
sneezing  lustily.    The  use  of  tobacco, 
now  so  universal  among  aU  classes  in 
Spain,  was  formerly  confined  to  this 
snuff,  the   sole  solace  of   a    celibate 
clergy.    The  Due  de  St.  Simon  (xix. 
125)  mentions,  in  1721,  that  the  Conde 


although  a  mania  rages  in  Spain  just 
now,  of  encouraging  native  talent,  and 
Spaniards  are  striving  to  do  badly  and 
dearly  what  elsewhere  can  be   done 
better  and  cheaper.    Essentially  agri- 
cultural, and  makers  of  nothing  well 
except  paper  cigars,  with  mistaken  in- 
dustry they  neutralize   the   gifts    of 
Providence,    and    neglect   their   soil, 
which  produces  ea^  and  excellent  raw 
produce,  to  force  cotton-spinning,  iron 
founderies,  manufactories,  &c.  Thus  the 
tall  British  chimney  rises  on  the  ruins 
of  the  Castilian  convent  belfry.  The  iron 
and  engine  work,  of  Senorknaplate, 
in  the  suppressed  San  Antonio,  beat 
Birmingham  in  the  eyes  of  the  Boeti- 
cans ;  but  when  it  is  added  that  there 
is  no  bank  at  Seville,  the  Manchester 
school  will  understand  the  petty,  pal- 
tiy,   passive  retail  commerce  of  this 
marvel  city  of  Spain. 

On  the  flat  plain  outside  the  walls, 
called  El  Prado  de  San  Sebastia»y  was 
the  Q^efnaderOf  or  the  burning-place 
of  the  Inquisition,  where  the  last  act  of 
the  religious  tragedy  of  the  auto  defe 
was  left,  with  the  odium,  to  be  per- 
formed by  the  civil  power.  The  spot 
of  fire  is  marked  by  the  foundations  of 
a  square  platform  on  which  the  faggots 
were  piled.  Here,  about  1781,  a  heata, 
or  female  saint,  was  burnt,  for  taking 
upon  herself  the  hen  and  heretical  office 
of  hatching  eggs.  Townsend,  however, 
(ii.  342),  says  that  she  was  very  be- 
witching, and  had  a  successful  mono- 
mania for  seducing  clergymen. 

Elderly  Spaniards  are  still  very  shy 
of  talking  about  the  Quemadero ;  sons 
of  burnt  fathers,  they  dread  the  fire. 
Con  el  Rey  y  la  InqvisuAon^  chiton ! 
chiton!  Hush!  hush!  say  they,  with 
finger  on  lip,  hke  the  image  of  Silence, 
with  King  and  Inquisition.  As  the 
heavy  swell  of  the  Atlantic  remains 
aft«r  the  hurricane  is  past,  so  distrust 
and  scared  apprehension  form  part  of 


de  Lemos  passed  his  time  in  amoking   the     uncommunicative     Spaniard    in 


to  dissipate  his  grief  for  having  joined 

the  party  of  the  Archduke  Charles — 

"  chose  fort  extraordinaire  en  Espagne^ 

■*-^  <m  ne  prend  du  tabac  que  par  lenez." 

is  at  least  a  national  Faibrica, 


deaUng  with  Spaniard.  "How  silent 
you  are,"  said  the  Empress  of  Russia  to 
Euler.  "  Madam,"  repUed  he, "  I  have 
lived  in  a  country  where  men  who 
speak  are  hanged.      The  burnings  of 


Andalucia^ 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — INQUISmON. 


207 


tonid  Spain  would  have  better  suited 
the  temperature  of  chilly  Siberia. 

The  effects  are,  howeyer,  the  same, 
and  this  engine  of  mystery  hung  oyer 
the  nation  like  the  sword  of  Damocles ; 
inyisible  spies,  more  terrible  than 
armed  men,  omnipresent,  omniscient, 
omnipotent,  aimed  at  eyery  attribute 
of  the  Almighty,  saye  his  justice  and 
mercy.  It  arrested  the  circulation  of 
life,  and  man's  heart  trembled  to  hear 
the  sounds  of  his  own  beating.  It 
brooded  like  a  nightmare  on  the  body 
and  breath  of  the  nation  ;  hence  their 
dwarfed  literature,  and  unsocial  isola- 
tion. The  dread  of  the  Inquisition, 
from  whence  no  secrets  were  hid,  locked 
up  the  Spanish  heart,  soured  the  sweet 
charities  of  life,  preyented  frank  and 
social  communication,  which  relieyes 
and  improyes.  Hospitality  became 
dangerous,  when  confidence  might 
open  the  mind,  and  wine  giye  utter- 
ance to  long-hidden  thought.  Such 
was  the  fear-engendered  silence  under 
Koman  tyranny,  as  described  by  Tacitus 
(Agr.  ii.)  :  "  Adempto  per  inquisiiiones 
et  loquendi  et  audiendi  commercio, 
memoriam  quoque  ipsam  cum  yoce 
perdidissemus;  si  tam  m  nostr&  potes- 
tate  esset  obliyisci  quam  tacere." 

It  is  as  well,  the^ore,  here  as  else- 
where, to  ayoid  jesting  or  criticism  on 
this  matter ;  Con  el  ojo  y  la  fey  nunca 
me  burlarS.  Spaniards,  who,  like  Mos- 
lems, allow  themselyes  a  wide  latitude 
in  laughing  at  their  priests,  are  yery 
touchy  on  eyery  subject  connected  with 
their  creed ;  howeyer  enlightened  now- 
a-days,  it  is  a  remnant  of  the  loathing 
of  heresy  and  their  dread  of  a  tribunal 
which  they  think  sleepeth,  but  is  not 
dead,  scotched  rather  than  killed.  In 
the  changes  and  chances  of  Spain  it 
may  be  re-established,  and,  as  it  neyer 
forgets  or  forgiyes,  it  will  surely  re- 
yenge,  and  the  spirit  of  the  Inquisition 
is  still  aliye,  for  no  king,  cortes,  or 
constitution  eyer  permits  in  Spain  any 
approach  to  any  religious  toleration. 

The  Inquisition,  a  tribunal  of  bad 
faith,  bigotry,  confiscation,  blood,  and 
fire,  was  initiated  by  St.  Dominick, 
who  learnt  his  trade  under  Simon  de 


Montfort,  the  exterminator  of  the  Pro- 
testant Albigenses.  It  was  remodeled 
on  Moorish  principles,  the  garrote  and 
furnace  being  borrowed  from  the  bow- 
string and  fire  of  the  Moslem,  who 
burnt  the  bodies  of  the  infidels  to  pre- 
yent  the  aslies  from  becoming  relics 
(Beinaud,  *  Iny.  des  Sarasins,'  145). 

Spanish  cities  haye  contended  for 
the  honour  of  which  was  the  first  seat 
of  this  holy  tribunal,  once  the  great 
glory  and  boast  of  Spain,  and  else- 
where her  foul  disgrace.  This,  says 
Mariana  (xxy.  1),  was  the  secret  of 
her  inyincible  greatness,  since  "  the 
instant  the  holy  office  acquired  its  due 
power  and  authority,  a  new  light  shone 
oyer  the  land,  and,  by  diyine  fayour, 
the  forces  of  Spain  became  sufficient  to 
eradicate  and  beat  down  the  Moor." 

Seville  was  the  first  and  the  head- 
quarters of  these  bright  fires.  The 
great  claim  put  forth  in  1627  for  the 
beatification  of  St.  Ferdinand  was,  that 
he  had  carried  faggots  himself  to  bum 
heretics.  But  the  spirit  of  the  age  was 
then  fanatically  ferocious.  Thus  Philip 
le  Bel,  his  cousin,  and  son  of  St.  Louis, 
tortured  and  burnt  the  Templars 
by  a  slow  fire  near  his  royal  garden ; 
and  our  Heniy's  writ  de  heretico 
comburendo,  and  approyed  of  by  Coke 
(iii.  Inst.  5)  pro  salute  aninue — out  of 
regard  for  the  soul  of  the  burnt  man — 
was  only  abolished  by  Charles  II.  The 
holy  tribunal  was  first  fixedly  estab- 
lished at  Seyille  in  1481,  by  Sixtus  lY., 
at  the  petition  of  Ferdinand,  who  used 
it  as  an  engine  of  finance,  police,  and' 
reyenge.  He  assigned  to  it  the  Domi- 
nican conyent  of  St.  Paul,  and  when 
that  was  found  too  small  for  the  num- 
ber of  its  inmates,  gaye  it  the  citadel  of 
Triana.  "  This  tribunal,  judge,  jury,  and 
executioner  of  its  yictim,  was  too  truly 
a  thing  of  Spainnot  to  root  and  flourish 
in  a  congenial  soil.  Lay  pride  allied 
itself  to  8uch  a  religion,  the  grandees 
held  office  both  from  bigotry,  loye  of 
new  titles,  and  self  security,  by  becom- 
ing members  of  the  dreaded  system. 
Tomas  de  Torquemada  was  the  first 
high-priest  who  carried  out,  to  use 
Bossuet's  mild  phrase,  "  the  holy  so- 


208 


EOUTE  7. — SEVILLE^-CEMETERT. 


Sect.  II. 


verity  of  the  church  of  Borne  which 
will  not  tolerate  error."  According 
to  the  hest  authorities,  from  1481  to 
1808,  the  Holy  Tribunal  of  Spain 
burnt  34,612  persons  alive,  18,048 
in  efiSgy,  and  imprisoned  288,109 — 
but  these  vast  numbers  are  questionable 
— the  goods  and  chattels  of  every  one 
of  them  being  first  duly  confiscated. 
In  addition  to  these  victims  it  entailed 
to  poor,  uncommercial,  indolent  Spain, 
the  expulsion  of  her  wealthy  Jews,  and 
her  most  industrious  agriculturists,  the 
Moors.  The  dangerous  engine,  when 
the  supply  of  victims  was  exhausted, 
recoiled  on  the  nation,  and  fitted  it  for 
that  yoke,  heavy  and  grievous,  under 
which  for  three  centuries  it  has  done 
penance ;  the  works  of  Llorente  have 
fully  revealed  the  secrets  of  priestcraft 
in  power.  The  best  account  of  .an 
Auto  de  Fe  ia  the  official  report  of  Jos^ 
del  Olmo,  4to.,  published  at  Madrid  in 
1680. 

Near  the  Quemadero  is  San  Diego,  a 
suppressed  Jesuit  convent,  and  given 
in  1784  to  Mr.  "Wetherell,  who  was 
tempted  by  Spanish  promises  to  ex- 
change the  climate  of  Snow  Hill,  Hol- 
bom,  for  torrid  Andalucia.  Towns- 
hend  (ii.  325)  gives  the  details.  This 
intelligent  gentleman,  having  been  the 
first  to  establish  a  tannery  with  steam- 
machinery  in  Spain,  was  ruined  by  the 
bad  fedth  of  the  government,  which 
&iled  in  both  payments  and  promises. 
The  property  has  now  passed  by  a 
Spanish  trick  into  other  hands,  the 
court  of  appeal  having  been  induced  to 
allow  a  false  deed,  or  JSscriiura,  Mr. 
"Wetherell  lies  buried  in  his  garden, 
surroimded  by  those  of  his  countrymen 
who  have  died  in  Seville :  requiescant 
in  pace !  The  scene  of  a  coimtryman's 
grave  cut  ofi*  in  a  foreign  land  is  affect? 
ing,  and  doubly  so  to  those  who  have 
left  here  a  branch  of  themselves ;  pu|l 
out,  therefore,  the  nettle  which  has  no 
business  to  grow  here. — R.  F, 

On  the  other  side  of  the  plain  was  the 
great  city  cemetery  of  San  SehasUan, 
now  moved  N.  not  to  offend  the  In- 
fanta who  hved  near  it.     Into  this  Bo- 

•nist  Necropolis  no  heretic,  if  dead, 


is  allowed  to  enter;  nay,  the  ortho- 
dox canons  of  the  cathedral  have  a 
separate  quarter  from  the  laity.  Bu- 
rial out  of  towns — a  hygienic  neces- 
sity— was  vehemently  opposed  by  the 
Spanish  clergy,  who  lost  their  fees,  and 
assured  their  flocks  that  those  int€rred 
out  of  their  parish  churchyard,  would 
risk  the  neither  leetmg  in  thei/graTea, 
nor  rising  at  the  resurrection.  The  cata- 
comb system  is  here  adopted  :  a  niche 
is  granted  for  80  reals  for  6  or  7  years, 
and  the  term  can  be  renewed  {proroga' 
do)  by  a  new  payment.  A  large  grave 
or  ditch  is  opened  every  day,  into 
which  the  bodies  of  the  poor  are  cast 
like  dogs,  after  being  often  first  stripped 
by  the  sextons  even  of  their  rags. 

This  cemetery  should  be  visited  on 
the  last  night  of  October,  or  All  Hal- 
lowe'en, and  the  vigil  of  All  Saints' 
day ;  and  again  on  Nov.  2,  the  day  of 
All  Souls,  when  all  the  town  repairs 
there.  It  is  rather  a  fashionable  pro- 
menade than  a  reUgious  performance. 
The  spot  is  crowded  with  beggars,  who 
appeal  to  the  tender  recoDections  of 
one's  deceased  relations  and  friends. 
Outside,  a  busy  sale  of  nuts,  sweet- 
meats, and  cakes  take?  place,  and  a  crowd 
of  horses,  carriages,  and  noisy  children, 
all  vitality  and  mirth,  which  must  vex 
the  repose  of  the  blessed  souls  even 
in  purgatory  (see  'Gatherings,*  p.  250). 

Betuming  from  San  SehctsUan  to 
Seville,  the  change  from  death  at  the 
Puerta  de  Xerez  is  striking :  here  all 
is  life  and  flower,.  This  quarter,  once 
the  dunghill  of  the  city,  was  converted 
into  a  Paradise  by  Jose  Manuel  Ar- 
jona,  in  1830,  This,  the  last  Asistente 
of  Seville — ultimus  Bomanorum — ^was 
its  Augustus  r  to  him  are  owing  almost 
all  of  the  many  modem  improvements, 
paving,  lighting,  cleansing,  &c.  The' 
principal  walk  was  laid  out  by  him  in 
honour  of  Christina,  then  the  young 
bride  of  Eerdinaud  VII.  El  Salon 
is  a  raised  central  saloon,  with  stone 
seats  around.  In  the  afternoon  and 
evening  all  the  "rank  and  fiashion" 
assemble  to  promenade  here.  Beyond, 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  are  JLag 
DeliciaSf  a  charming  ride  and  walk. 


Andalucia, 


EOUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^TORRE  DEI.  ORO. 


209 


Here  is  the  botanical  garden,  and  truly 
delicious  are  these  nocturnal  strolls. 
Night  in  the  south  is  beautiful  of  itself. 
The  sun  of  fire  is  set,  and  a  balmy 
breeze  fans  the  scorched  cheek :  now 
the  city  "which  sleeps  by  day  awakes  to 
life  and  Iotc,  and  bright  eyes  sparkle 
brighter  than  the  stars.  The  semi- 
obscure,  not  too  dark  for  them,  hides 
poverty  and  decay,  and  pleasant  it  is 
to  listen  to  the  distant  hum  of  the 
guitar,  and  think  that  a  whole  town  is 
happy. 

At  the  land  side  of  the  walk  is  a 
huge  pile  of  churrigueresque,  long  the 
nautical  college  of  San  Tebno,  the  pa- 
tron of  Spanish  sailors,  who,  when  the 
storm  is  going  to  be  over,  appears  at 
the  mast-head  with  a  lambent  flame. 
It  was  founded  by  Fernando,  son  of 
Columbus,  and  built  in  1682,  by  Anto- 
nio Erodriguez.  Here  the  middies  were 
taught  navigation  in  a  room,  &om  a 
small  model  of  a  three-decker.  When 
the  nautical  college  was  removed  to 
Cadiz,  as  somewhett  a  sinecure,  the 
Spanish  fleet  being  a  myth,  the  Duke 
of  Montpensier  and  the  Infanta  bought 
the  building,  and  have  very  much  im- 
proved it,  inside  and  outside. 

The  Ptterta  de  Xerez^  said  to  be  built 
by  Hercules  {Hercules  meedifico,  p.  169) , 
was  at  all  events  rebuilt  by  the  infidel. 
Now  the  a^rroyo  Taga/rete  reappears. 
This  rivulet,  or  rather  Fleet-ditch, 
winds  round  the  E.  and  W,  sides  of 
Seville,  and  here  empties  itself  and  its 
impurities  into  the  GhMtdalquivir,  The 
filthy  contents  of  this  open  sewer  de- 
composing under  the  sun  breed  fever 
and  unhealthiness.  Any  real  board  of 
health  would  order  it  instantly  to  be 
covered  over.  The  Moorish  walls 
which  hang  over  this  stinking  Styx 
once  were  painted  in  fresco.  Up  to 
1821  they  connected  the  Alcazar  with 
the  outpost  river-guarding  tower,  called 
La  torre  del  Oro,  "  of  gold,"  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  La  Torre  de  Plata, 
that  "  of  silver,"  which  lies  nearer  the 
mint.  These  fine  names  are  scarcely 
sterling,  both  being  built  of  Moorish 
tapia.  The  former  one,  most  absurdly 
ascribed  to  Julius  Ceesar,  was  raised 


by  the  Almohades,  who  called  it 
Borju  d-dahdby  "  the  tower  of  gold,'* 
because  their  treasure  was  kept  in  it; 
now  it  is  only  gilded  by  sunsets.  It 
was  used  by  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel,  as  a 
prison  for  his  enemies  and  his  mis- 
tresses. The  Spaniards  have  built  a 
sentry-box  on  the  top  of  this  Moorish 
tower,  where  their  red  and  yellow  flag 
occasionally  is  hoisted. 

Passing  on  is  the  Aduana  or  Custom- 
house, a  hotbed  of  queer  dealings,  which 
lies  between  the  Postigos  de  Ca/rhon  and 
del  Aoeite:  inside  are  some  pretty 
Prout-like  old  houses  for  the  artist. 

Close  by  are  "  the  Atarazanaa,"  the 
Dar»san*-ah,  or  house  of  construction 
of  the  Moors,  whence  the  G«noa  term 
darsena,  and  our  word  arsenal.  The 
present  establishment  was  founded  by 
Alonso  el  Sabio,  and  his  Grotho-Latin 
inscription  still  remains  imbedded  in 
the  wall  near  the  Caridad  hospital. 
Observe  the  blue  azule/os,  said  to  be 
from  designs  by  Murillo,  who  painted 
the  glorious  pictures  for  the  interior 
(see  p.  190),  This  modem  arsenal, 
which  generally  is  miserably  provided, 
is  never  worth  inspection :  it  is  not 
better  provided  with  instruments  for 
inflicting  death  than  the  wards  of 
La  Sangre  are  with  those  for  preserving 
life.  Misgoverned,  ill-fated  Spain, 
which,  in  her  saUtrose  table-lands,  has 
"  villainous  saltpetre  "  enough  to  blow 
up  the  world,  and  copper  enough  at 
Eio  Tinto  and  at  Berja  to  sheathe  the 
Pyrenees,  is  of  all  countries  the  worst 
provided  in  ammunition  and  artillery, 
whether  it  be  a  batterie  de  cuisine  or 
de  citadel. 

Adjoining  the  arsenal  is  the  quarter 
of  the  dealers  of  bacalao  or  salted  cod- 
fish. "You  may  nose  them  in  the 
lobby."  This  wkicle  long  formed  a 
most  important  item  in  national  food. 
The  numerous  religious  corporations, 
and  fast-days,  necessarily  required  this, 
for  fresh-water  fish  is  rare,  and  sea- 
fish  almost  unknown,  in  the  great  cen- 
tral parameras  of  the  Peninsula.  The 
shrivelled  dried-up  cod-fish  is  easily 
conveyed  on  muleback  into  uncarriage- 
able  recesses.    It  is  much  consumed, 


210 


BOUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^PLAZA  DE  TOROS. 


Sect.  II. 


mixed  with  rice,  still  all  along  the 
tierra  caliente,  or  warm  zone  of  Spain, 
Alicante  being  the  port  lor  the  S.  E., 
as  Seville  is  for  the  S.  portions :  ex- 
posed to  the  scorching  sun,  this  salt- 
fish  is  anything  but  sweet,  and  our 
readers  when  on  a  journey  are  "cau- 
tioned not  to  eat  it,  as  it  only  creates 
an  insatiable  thirst,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  unavailing  remorse  of  a  non-digest- 
ing stomach.  Leave  it  therefore  to 
the  dura  ilia  and  potent  solvents  of 
muleteer  gastric  juices.  At  all  events 
it  ought  to  be  put  many  hours  al 
remqjoy  to  soak  in  water,  which  takes 
out  the  salt  and  doftens  it.  The  Car- 
thaginians and  ancients  knew  this  so 
well  that  the  first  praise  of  a  good  cook 
was  Scit  muriatica  ut  maceret  (Plant. 
*Poen.*i.  2,  39). 

In  this  piscatose  comer  of  Seville, 
poverty  delights  to  feed  on  the  Ori- 
ental cold  cried  fish,  and  especially 
slices  of  large  flounders,  whiting,  and 
small  bits  of  bacalao  fried  in  yolk  of 
eggs,  called  familiarly  Soldaos  de 
Favia,  because  yellow  was  the  imiform 
of  that  regiment,  and  possibly  in  re- 
membrance of  the  deficient  commis- 
sariat of  the  victors  of  that  day.  The 
lower  classes  are  great  fish-eaters :  to 
this  the  fasts  of  their  church  and  their 
poverty  conduce.  They  seldom  boil 
it,  except  in  oil.  Their  principle  is, 
when  the  fish  has  once  left  its  native 
element,  it  ought  never  to  touch  it 
again.  Here,  as  in  the  East,  cold 
broiled  fish  is  almost  equivalent  to  meat 
(St.  Luke,  xxiv.  42). 

Next  observe  the  heraldic  gate,  del 
Arenal,  of  the  Strand,  and  a  sort  of 
Temple  Bar;  the  contiguous  streets 
have  long  been  inhabited  by  denizens 
of  indifferent  reputation;  here  the 
rogue  of  a  Ventero  in  Don  Quixote  was 
educated;  here  Cervantes  placed  the 
school  of  Monopodio,  who  in  his  Bin- 
conete  y  CortadiUo,  "  Hole-and-corner 
man  and  cut-purse,"  gave  the  idea 
of  Fagin  and  "artful  dodger"  to 
Dickens;  but  nothing  is  new  under 
the  sun,  not  even  thimble-rigging, 
^l^ri^o^a^a.  The  Open  space  in  tront 
^^  caUed  la  Carreteria^  because  here 


carts  and  carters  resort ;  and  also 
el  BaratiUoi^  the  "little  chepe,"  from 
being  a  rag-fair,  and  place  for  the  sale 
of  marine  stores  or  stolen  goods. 
Accordingly,  the  new  public  prison  is 
not  iU  placed  here,  on  the  site  of  the 
old  convent,  del  Pojmlo,  Near  this  is 
the  Plaza  de  Toros,  which  is  a  fine 
amphitheatre,  and  w^  hold  more  than 
12,000  spectators,  although  injured  by 
a  hurricane  in  1805  and  unrepaired, 
especially  on  the  cathedral  side,  which 
at  least  lets  in  the  Giralda  and  com- 
pletes the  picture,  when  the  setting 
sunrays  gild  the  Moorish  tower  as 
the  last  bull  dies,  and  the  populace — 
fex  nondum  lassata — unwillingly  retire. 
This  Plaza  is  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  Maestranza  of  Seville.  This 
equestrian  society  of  the  highest  rank 
was  formed  in  1526,  to  encourage  tour- 
naments and  the  spirit  of  chivalry 
then  wearing  out ;  now  the  chief  end 
is  the  wearing  a  scarlet  uniform. 

Tauromachian  travellers  will  remem- 
ber the  day  before  the  fight  to  ride  out 
to  Tablada  to  see  the  gaOadOy  or  what 
cattle  the  bulls  are,  and  go  early  the 
next  day  to  witness  the  encierro;  be 
sure  also  at  the  show  to  secure  a  boletiw 
de  somhra  in  a  balcon  depiedra,  i.  e. 
a  good  seat  in  the  shade. 

Leaving  the  Plaza,  we  now  approach 
el  Rio,  the  Biver  Strand,  where  a  petty 
traffic  id  carried  on  of  fruit,  mattings, 
and  goods  brought  up  in  barges;  so 
much  for  the  scanty  commerce  of  a 
city  thus  described  four  centuries  ago 
by  our  pilgrim  (Purchas,  ii.  1232)  : — 


-"  Civyle !  graand !  that  is  so  fre, 


A  paradise  it  is  to  behold, 
The  frutez  vines  and  spiceiy  thee  I  have  told 
Upon  the  haven  all  manner  of  merchandise, 
And  karekes  and  schippes  of  all  device." 

Here  the  hungry  tide-waiters  look  out 
for  bribes,  and  an  official  post-captain 
pompously  announces  the  arrival  of  a 
stray  smack.  A  rude  boat-bridge  here 
for  ages  stemmed  the  Guadalquivir, 
and  was  at  once  inconvenient  in  pas- 
sage and  expensive  in  repair :  formerly 
it  was  a  ferry,  until  Yusuf  abu  Yacub 
first  threw  across  some  barges  Oct.  11, 
1171,  by  which  the  city  was  provi- 


Andalucia, 


EOUTE  7.— SEVILLE — ^TRIANA. 


211 


sioned  from  the  fertile  Ajarafe;  the 
destruction  of  this  communication  by 
St.  Ferdinand  led  to  the  enrrender  of 
Seville.  This  bridge  of  boats  has  been 
for  ages  a  source  of  profit  to  the  com- 
missioners, who  have  recdved  funds 
sufficient  to  have  built  one  of  marble : 
a  suspension  bridge  has  since  been 
erected,  and  was  inaugurated  in  June, 
1852,  and  blessed  by  the  priests.  The 
people  at  first  were  a&aid  to  cross  the 
heretical  bridge — ^a  pttenie  del  DiciblOy 
or  del  IngleSy  although  the  first  stone 
was  sanctified  by  the  Dean. 

Next  observe  el  Triunfo,  a  monu- 
ment common  in  Spaaish  towns,  and 
raised  in  honour  of  the  triumph  ob- 
tained by  the  advocates  of  the  Imma- 
culate Conception;  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin  and  local  tutelars  are  usually 
placed  on  the  erection ;  the  Doric  gate 
which  here  leads  into  the  town  is 
called  la  JPuerta  de  IHana,  because 
facing  that  suburb :  it  was  erected  in 
1588,  and  is  attributed  to  Herrera. 
The  upper  story  was  used  as  a  state 
prison — a  Newgate :  here  the  Conde 
del  Aguila,  the  MsDcenas  of  Seville, 
was  murdered  by  the  patriots,  urged 
on  by  the  Catiline  Tilli  (see  Schep.  i. 
269,  and  Doblado's  Letters,  p.  439). 
The  plain  beyond  was  formerly  el 
PemeOi  or  the  pig-market ;  during  the 
cholera,  in  1833,  the  unclean  animals 
were  removed  to  the  meadows  of  the 
virgin  patronesses  Justa  and  Bufina, 
behind  San  Agustin,  and  the  space 
made  into  an  esplanade :  now  re-enter- 
ing by  the  Puerta  Seal^  the  circuit  is 
concluded. 

Of  course  the  traveller  wiU  ride  out 
8ome  day  to  Alcald  de  Ghnadavra  (see 
p.  159). 

A  smaller  and  home  circuit  should 
also  be  made  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
Guadalquivir,  crossing  over  to  the 
suburb  Triana,  the  Moorish  Taray- 
anah,  a  name  supposed  to  be  a  cor^ 
ruption  from  Trajami,  Trajan  having 
been  bom  near  it,  at  Italica.  It  is  the 
Transtevere  of  Seville,  and  the  favourite 
residence  of  gipsies,  buU-fighters,  smug- 
glers, robbers,  and  other  picturesque 
rascals;   hence  it  is  much  frequented 


by  the  dficiony  by  fancy  men  and  Majos, 
who  love  low  company  :  this  is  the 
place  to  behold  a  funcion  de  gitanos, 
got  up  in  all  the  glory  of  Gaditanian 
dancing,  jaleos  y  aranasy  un  Jestejo  de 
genie  buena  con  muchissimo  mostagan. 
To  the  rt.,  on  crossing  the  bridge, 
are  some  remains  of  the  once  formi- 
dable Moorish  castle,  Which  was  made 
the  first  residence  of  the  Inquisition, 
the  cradle  of  that  fourth  Fury.  The 
Guadalquivir,  which  blushed  at  the 
fires  and  curdled  with  the  bloodshed. 

• 

almost  swept  away  this  edifice  in  1626, 
as  if  indignant  at  the  crimes  committed 
on  its  bank.  The  tribunal  was  then 
moved  to  the  CaUe  San  MarcoSy  and 
afterwards  to  the  Alameda  Vieja.  The 
ruined  castle  was  afterwards  taken 
down,  and  the  site  converted  into  the 
present  market. 

The  parish  church,  Santa  Anna,  was 
built  by  Alonso  el  Sabio,  in  1276 :  the 
image  of  the  "  Mother  of  the  Virgin," 
in-  the  high  altar,  is  a  Virgen  aparecida, 
or  a  divinely  revealed  paJladium,  and 
is  brought  out  in  pubUc  calamities,  but 
as  a  matter  of  etiquette  it  never  crosses 
the  bridge,  which  would  be  going  out 
of  its  parochial  jurisdiction :  in  the 
Trascoro  is  a  curious  Virgin,  painted 
and  signed  by  Alejo  Fernandez ;  in  the 
plateresque  Setablo  are  many  fine 
Campanas,  especially  a  "  St.  George," 
which  has  much  of  a  Giorgione.  The 
statues  and  bas-reliefs  are  by  Pedro 
Delgado.  Visit  the  church  Nvsstra 
Setlora  del  O ;  many  females  are  here 
christened  with  tlus  vowel.  Great 
quantities  of  coarse  azulefo  and  loza, 
earthenware,  are  still  made  here  as  in 
the  days  of  Santas  Justa  and  Eufina. 
The  naranfales,  or  orange-gardens,  are 
worth  notice.  The  principal  street  is 
called  de  Costilla :  here  the  soap- 
makers  lived,  whence  our  term  CastUe 
soap.  (?)  There  is  a  local  history,  ^^Apa- 
rato  d€  Triana"  Justino  Matute,  Se- 
viUa,  1818. 

To  the  rt.,  a  short  walk  outside  Tri- 
ana,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  the 
Cartuja  Convent,  dedicated  to  Nuestra 
Seiiora  de  laa  Ottevas,  and  begun  in 
1400  by  Arch.  B.  Mena ;  the  funds  left 


212 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ^THE  CARTUJA. 


Sect.  IL 


by  him  were  seized  by  the  G-ovemment, 
always  needy  and  always  unprincipled. 
Finished  by  Pier  Afiui  de  Ribera,  it 
became  a  museum  of  piety,  painting, 
sculpture,  and  architecture,  imtil  el 
tiempo  de  los  Franceses,  when,  accord- 
ing to  Laborde,  iii.  263,  "  Le  Ml.  Soult 
en  fit  une  exceUewte  citadelle,  dont 
TEghse  devint  le  magasin ;  la  Biblio- 
th^ue  ne  valoit  rien ;  eUe  a  servi  pour 
fiaire  des  gargousses  "  (cartridges)  ;  un- 
like our  Essex  at  Cadiz  in  1596,  who 
ordered  the  fine  Osario  library  to  be  pre- 
served, and  gave  it  to  Sodley,and  many 
of  the  books  are  still  preserved  at  Oxford; 
the  silver  full-length  saints,  San  Bruno, 
&c.,  were  melted  by  Soult  into  francs. 
Sequestered  latterly,  and  sold,  the  con- 
vent has  been  turned  into  a  pottery  by 
Mr.  Pickman,  a  worthy  Englishman, 
who,  not  making  the  chapel  his  maga- 
zine, has  preserved  it  for  holy  purposes. 
Now  the  drones  are  expelled,  the  block 
of  the  convent  is  the  hive  of  busy  ce- 
ramic bees,  originally  swarmed  in  Eng- 
land. Mr.  Pickman,  a  foreigner,  warned 
by  Mr.  Weth»all's  fate,  took  into  part- 
nership certain  natives.  Observe  the 
fine  rose  window  in  the  facade,  and  the 
stones  recording  the  heights  of  firequent 
inundations ;  inquire  in  the  garden  for 
the  old  burial-ground,  where  foreigners 
now  rest,  and  the  G-othic  inscription  of 
the  age  of  Hermenegildo.  N.B.  Its 
oranges  are  dehcious. 

Following  the  banks  of  a  stream  we 
reach  the  miserable  village  of  Sa/nti 
Ponce,  a  corruption  from  the  name  of 
San  Geroncio,  its  Gothic  bishop,  or, 
according  to  others,  of  Santo  Fozo,  the 
"  holy  well : "  it  was  the  once  ancient 
Italica,  the  birthplace  of  the  Emperors 
Trajan,  Adrian,  and  Theodosius;  it 
was  founded  u.o.  547,  on  the  site  of  the 
Iberian  town  Sancios,  by  Scipio  Afri- 
canus,  and  destined  as  a  home  for  his 
veterans  (App.  "B.  H."  463).  It  was 
adorned  by  Adrian  with  sumptuous 
edifices.  The  citizens  petitioned  to 
become  a  Colonia,  that  is,  subject  to 
Borne,  instead  of  remaining  a  free 
Municipium  :  even  Adrian  was  sur- 
prised at  this  Andalucian  servility 
'Aul.  Oell.  xvi.  13).     Many  Spaniards 


assert  that  the  poet  Silius  Italicus  was 
bom  here ;  but  then  the  epithet  would 
have  been  ItaUcensis:  his  birth-place 
is  unknown  ;  probably  he  was  an 
Italian,  for  Martial,  his  friend,  never 
alludes  to  his  being  a  paisano,  or 
fellow-countryman.  From  his  admi- 
ration and  imitation  of  Yirgil  he  was 
called  his  ape.  To  the  Spanish  anti- 
quarian he  is  valuable  from  having  in- 
troduced so  many  curious  notices  in 
his  Fumca,  Pliny  J'.  (Ep.  iii.  7)  thus 
justly  describes  his  style :  Silius  scribe- 
bat  carmina  majore  curd  quam  ingenio. 

Italica  was  preserved  by-  the  (Joths, 
and  made  the  see  of  a  bishop  :  Leovi- 
gild,  in  584,  repaired  the  walls  when  he 
was  besieging  Seville,  then  the  strong- 
hold of  his  rebel  son  Hermenigildo. 
The  name  Italica  was  corrupted  by  the 
Moors  into  Talikah,  Talca ;  and  in  old 
deeds  the  fields  are  termed  los  compos 
de  Talca,  and  the  town  Semlla  laviep'a. 
The  ruin  of  Italica  dates  from  the  river 
having  changed  its  bed,  a  conmion  trick 
in  wayward  Spanish  and  Oriental 
streams.  Thus  Gour,  once  on  the 
Gkmges,  is  now  deserted.  The  Moors 
soon  abandoned  a  town  and  **  a  land 
which  the  rivers  had  spoiled,"  and 
selected  Seville  as  a  better  site;  and 
ever  since  the  remains  have  been  used 
as  a  quarry.  Consult  "  Bosquejo  de 
ItaUca,"  Justino  Matute,  Sevilla,  1827  ; 
and  for  the  medals,  Florez,  "  Med.,"  ii. 
477.  Of  these  many,  chiefly  copper  or 
small  silver  coins,  are  found  and  offered 
for  sale  to  foreigners  by  the  peasants, 
who,  with  a  view  of  recommending 
their  wares,  polish  them  bright,  and 
rub  off  the  precious  bloom,  the  patina 
and  Aerugo,  the  sacred  rust  of  twice  ten 
hundred  years. 

On  Dec.  12,  1799,  a  fine  mosaic 
pavement  was  discovered,  which  a  poor 
monk,  named  Jose  Mosooso,  to  his 
honour,  enclosed  with  a  wall,  in  order 
to  save  it  from  the  usual  fate  in  Spain. 
Didot,  in  1802,  published  for  Laborde 
a  splendid  foho,  with  engravings  and 
description.  The  traveller  will  find  a 
copy  in  the  cathedral  Ubrarv  in  the 
Patio  de  los  Naranjos,  at  Seville.  Now 
this  work  is  all  that  remains,  for  the 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE— ITALIOA. 


213 


soldiers  of  M.  Soult  converted  the 
enclosure  into  a  goat-pen. 

The  amphitheatre  lies  outside  the 
old  town.  On  the  way  ruins  peep  out 
amid  the  weeds  and  ohve-groves,  hke 
the  grey  bones  of  dead  giants.  The 
amphitneatre,  in  1774,  was  used  by  the 
corporation  of  Seville  for  river  dikes, 
and  for  making  the  road  to  Badajoz. 
See  the  details,  by  an  eye-witness, 
"  Viaje  Topograjico  desde  Ghranada  d 
lAshoa;'  duo.  1774,  p.  70.  The  form 
•is,  however,  yet  to  be  traced,  and  the 
broken  tiers  of  seats.  The  scene  is  sad 
and  lonely ;  read  in  it  by  all  means  the 
sweet  ode  by  Bioja.  A  few  gipsies 
usually  lurk  among  the  vaults.  The 
visitors  scramble  over  the  broken  seats 
of  once  easy  access,  frightening  the 
large  and  glittering  lizards  or  Laga/rtoa^ 
which  hurry  into  the  rustling  brambles. 
Behind,  in  a  small  vaUey,  a  limpid 
stream  still  trickles  from  a  font  and  still 
tempts  the  thirsty  traveller,  as  it  once 
did  the  mob  of  ItaUca  when  heated 
with  games  of  blood. 

The  rest  of  Italica  either  sleeps 
buried  under  the  earthy  or  has  been 
carried  away  by  builders.  To  the  west 
are  some  vaulted  brick  tanks,  called 
JLa  Casa  de  los  Banos,  They  were  the 
reservoirs  of  the  aqueduct  brought  by 
Adrian  from  TejcLday  7  L.  distant. 
Occasionally  partial  excavations  are 
made,  but  ill  is  done  by  fits  and  starts, 
and  on  no  regular  plan :  the  thing  is 
taken  up  and  put  down  by  accident 
and  caprice,  and  the  antiques  found  are 
usually  of  a  low  art.  The  site  was  pur- 
chased, in  1301,  by  Guzman  el  JBuenOy 
(see  p.  149,)  who  founded  the  castellated 
convent  San  Isidore  as  the  burial-place 
of  his  femily.  The  sacred  pile,  built 
like  those  in  Syria,  and  near  the  infidel, 
half  fortress  and  half  convent,  was 
gutted  and  ruined  by  Soult  on  his 
final  evacuation  of  Andalucia,  and  next 
was  made  a  prison  for  galley  slaves. 
The  chapel  is,  however,  preserved  for 
the  village  church.  Observe  the  sta- 
tues of  San  Isidoro  and  San  Jeronimo 
by  Montanes,and  the  effigies  of  Q-uzman 
and  his  wife,  who  he  buried  beneath, 
date  &om  1609.  The  tomb  was  opened 


in  1570,  and  the  body  of  the  good  man, 
according  to  Matute  (p.  156),  "  found 
almost  entire,  and  nine  feet  high ; " 
here  lies  also  Dona  Uraca  Osorio,  with 
her  maid  Leonora  Davalos  at  her  feet. 
She  was  burnt  alive  by  Pedro  the  Cruel 
for  rejecting  his  addresses.  A  portion 
of  her  chaste  body  was  exposed  by 
the  flam^  which  consumed  her  dress, 
whereupon  her  attendant,  faithful  in 
death,  rushed  into  the  fire,  and  died  in 
concealing  her  mistress. 

The  Feria  de  Santi  Fonce^  in  the 
beginning  of  October,  is  the  Q-reen- 
wich  fair  of  Seville,  and  all  the  rage 
just  now :  then  booths  are  erected  in 
the  ancient  bed  of  the  river,  which 
becomes  a  scene  of  Majeza  and  their 
Jaleos.  The  hohday  folk,  in  all  their 
Andaluoian  finery,  return  at  nightfeU 
in  Ca/rretas  filled  with  Qitanas  y  Cor- 
raleras,  while  los  mafos  y  los  de  la 
afidon  (fancy)  vtielven  d  caballo,  con 
sus  queriditas  en  anccts.  Crowds  of 
the  better  classes  come  or  used  to  come 
out  to  see  this  procession,  and  sit  on 
chairs  in  the  Calle  de  Costilla,  which 
resounds  with  requiebrosy  and  is  en- 
Hvened  with  exhibitions  of  small  horns 
made  of  harro,  the  type  of  the  Comtido 
paciente  of  Seville ;  the  civilization  of 
the  coat,  alas !  is  effacing  these  nation- 
alities ',  already  the  females  are  quitting 
their  charming  costume  for  bonnets  d 
la  Frangaise  and  Manchester  cottons  ; 
then  with  their  dark  faces,  white  gowns, 
and  gaudy  ribbons,  they  put  one  in 
mind  of  May-day  chimney-sweeps. 

The  traveller  may  return  from  Ita- 
lica to  Seville  by  a  diflerent  route, 
keeping  under  the  slopes  of  the  hills  : 
opposite  Seville,  on  the  summit  to  the 
rt.,  is  Castileja  de  la  Cuesta,  from. 
whence  the  view  is  fine  and  extensive. 
Here,  at  No.  66,  Calle  Beal,  hved 
Feman  Cortes,  and  died  Dec.  2,  1547, 
aged  63,  a  broken-hearted  victim,  like 
Ximeiiez,  Columbus,  G-onzalo  de  Cor- 
dova, and  others,  of  his  king's  and 
country's  ingratitude.  He  was  first 
buried  in  San  Isidoro  at  Itahca,  until 
his  bones,  hke  those  of  Columbus, 
after  infinite  movings  and  changings 
of  sepulture^  at  last  reached  Mexico^ 


214 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — ORANGES. 


Sect.  II. 


the  scene  of  his  glories  and  crimes 
during  life ;  not  however  doomed  to  rest 
even  there,  for  in  1823  the  local  patriots 
intended  to  disinter  \he  foreigner^  and 
scatter  his  dust  to  the  winds.  They 
were  anticipated  by  pious  fraud,  and 
the  illustrious  ashes  removed  to  a  new 
abode,  where,  if  the  secret  be  kept, 
they  may  at  last  find  rest. 

Keeping  the  hill  Chdboya  to  the  rt., 
we  reach  San  Juan  de  Alfa/rache^  Hisn- 
al-faraj,  "of  the  fissure  or  cleft;"  it 
was  the  Moorish  river  key  of  Seville, 
and  the  old  and  ruined  walls  still 
crown  the  heights.  This  was  the  site 
of  the  Sroman  Julia  Constantia,  the 
G-othic  Osset,  and  the  scene  of  infinite 
aqueous  miracles  during  the  Arian 
controversy :  a  font  yet  remains  in  the 
chapel.  Read  the  inscription  concern- 
ing the  self-replenishing  of  water  every 
Thursday  in  the  Semana  Santa ;  con- 
sult the  quarto  Sohre  la  milagrosa 
fuente,  by  tfosef  Santa  Maria,  Sev.  1630, 
and  the  Esp.  Sag.,  ix.  117.  Strabo, 
however  (iii.  261),  points  out  among 
the  marvels  of  Bsetica  certain  weUs  and 
fountains  which  ebbed  and  flowed  spon- 
taneously. Observe  the  Setahlo,  with 
pictures  by  CastUlo,  which  originally 
existed  in  the  San  Juan  de  la  Palma. 
The  panorama  of  Seville,  from  the 
convent  parapet,  is  charming.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  fine 
Naranjal  or  orange-grove  of  the  house 
of  Beck,  which  is  worth  riding  to. 
"  Seville,"  -says  Byron,  and  truly,  "  is 
a  pleasant  city,  famous  for  oranges  and 
women."  There  are  two  sorts  of  the 
former,  the  sweet  and  the  hitter  (Ara- 
bic^ Narang,  unde  Naranja),  of  which 
Scotch  marmalade  is  made  and  Dutch 
Cura9oa  flavoured.  The  trees  begin  to 
bear  finit  about  the  sixth  year  after 
they  are  planted,  and  the  quality  con- 
tinues to  improve  for  16  to  20  years, 
after  which  the  orange  degenerates, 
the  rind  gets  thick,  and  it  becomes 
unfit  for  the  foreign  market,  which 
always  takes  the  best.  The  trees  flower 
in  March,  and  perfume  the  air  of  Seville 
with  the  almost  sickening  odour  which 
retains  its  Arabic  name  Azahar  ;  from 
the  blossoms  sweetmeats  are  made,  and 


delicious  orange-flower  water;  buy  it 
at  Aquilar's,  Plaza  San  Vicente ;  nice 
sweetmeats  are  made  of  them  by  the 
nuns ;  to  eat  the  orange  in  perfection, 
it  should  not  be  gathered  until  the  new 
blossom  appears.  The  oranges  begin 
to  turn  yellow  in  October,  and  are 
then  picked,  as  they  never  increase  in 
size  after  changing  colour;  they  are 
wrapped  in  Catalan  paper,  and  packed 
in  chests,  which  contain  from  700  to 
1000  each,  and  may  be  worth  to  the 
exporter  from  25*.  to  30*.  They  ripen 
on  the  voyage,  but  the  rind  gets  tough, 
and  the  freshness  of  the  newly-gathered 
fruit  is  lost.  The  natives  are  very  fan- 
ciful about  eating  them :  they  do  not 
think  them  good  before  March,  and 
poison  if  eaten  after  sunset.  The 
vendors  in  the  street  cry  them  as  mas 
dulces  que  almibar,  sweeter  than  syrup, 
like  the  "Honey,  oh!  oranges  honey" 
of  the  Cairo  chapmen. 

Toma,  niila,  esa  naranja. 

Que  la  cogi  de  mi  huerta ; 
No  la  partas  con  navaja 

Que  estft  mi  corazon  deatro. 

The  village  below  the  hill  of  Alfa- 
rache,  being  exempt  from  the  odious 
Derecho  de  pu^rtas,  and  being  a  plea- 
sant walk,  is  frequented  on  hoHdays 
by  the  Sevilhans,  who  love  cheap  drink, 
&c.  Those  who  remember  what  pre- 
ceded the  birth  of  El  Picaro  G-uzman 
de  Alfarache — a  novel  so  well  trans- 
lated by  Le  Sage — may  rest  assured 
that  matters  are  not  much  changed. 
Gelves,  Gelduba,  Ues  lower  down  the 
river.  This  village  gives  the  title  of 
Count  to  the  descendants  of  Colum- 
bus :  the  fimuly  sepulchre  is  left  in 
disgraceful  neglect. 

EXCUESION  TO  AN  OlIVE-FAEM. 

The  oHves  and  oU  of  Bsetica  were 
celebrated  in  antiquity,  and  stiU  form 
a  staple  and  increasing  commodity  of 
Andalucia.  The  districts  between  Se- 
ville and  Alcaic,  and  in  the  Ajarafe, 
are  among  the  richest  in  Spain:  an 
exciursion  should  be  made  to  some 
large  Macienda  in  order  to  examine 
the  process  of  the  culture  and  the  ma* 
nufacture,  which  are  almost  identical 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  7. — SEVILLE — OLIVE  FARM. 


215 


with  thos«  described  by  Varro,  Colu- 
mella, and  Pliny.  Formerly  Seville 
was  surrounded  with  splendid  Hacien- 
daSy  which  combined  at  once  a  country- 
house,  a  village,  and  oil-manufactory : 
the  fiestas,  y  convites  de  campo,  kept 
here  by  the  wealthy  proprietors,  were 
celebrated  before  the  ruin  entailed  by 
Buonaparte's  invasion,  as  few  have  been 
able  to  restore  their  ravaged  esta- 
blishments. Whole  plantations  of 
olives  were  burnt  down  by  Soult'  s  troops, 
while  OUT  Duke  issued  strict  orders 
forbidding  this  ruinous  practice ;  mat- 
ters are,  however,  mending,  thanks  to 
the  great  exports  of  oil  to  England. 

San  JBartolom^,  a  farm  belonging  to 
the  Patema  family,  may  be  visited  as 
a  fine  specimen  of  a  first-rate  Haci- 
enda; it  contains  about  20,000  trees, 
each  of  which  will  yield  from  2  to  3 
bushels  of  olives ;  the  whole  produce 
averages  5000  arrobas  (of  25  lb.),  which 
vary  in  price  from  2  to  5  dollars.  The 
olive-tree,  however  classical,  is  very 
unpicturesque  ;  its  ashy  leaf  on  a  pol- 
larded trunk  reminds  one  of  a  second- 
rate  wHlow-tree,  while  it  affords  neither 
shade,  shelter,  nor  colour. 

GDhe  trees  are  usually  planted  in 
formal  rows :  a  branch  is  cut  from  the 
parent  in  January  ;  the  end  is  opened 
into  4  shts,  into  which  a  stone  is 
placed;  it  is  then  planted,  banked, 
and  watered  for  2  years,  and  as  it 
grows  is  pruned  into  4  or  5  upright 
branches:  they  begin  to  pay  the  ex- 
pense about  the  lOth  year,  but  do  not 
attain  their  prime  before  the  30th. 
The  best  soils  are  indicated  by  the 
wild-olive  (oleaster, acc6«cAe), on  which 
cuttings  are  grafted,  and  produce  the 
finest  crops  (VirgU,  G.  ii.  182).  The 
Spaniards  often  sow  com  in  their 
ohve  grounds,  contrary  to  the  rule  of 
Columella,  for  it  exhausts  the  soil, 
chupa  la  tierra. 

The  berry  is  picked  in  the  autumn, 
when  it  is  purple-coloured  and  shining, 
baccee  splendentis  divse  :  then  the  scene 
is  busy  and  picturesque ;  the  peasant, 
clad  in  sheep-skins,  is  up  in  the  trees 
like  a  satyr,  beating  off  the  fruit,  while 
his  children  pick  them  up,  and  his 


wife  and  sisters  drive  the  laden  donkeys 
to  the  mill.  The  ancients  never  heat 
the  trees  (Plin.  Nat.  Hist.  xv.  3).  The 
berries  are  emptied  into  a  vat,  SI 
trujal,  and  are  not  picked  and  sorted, 
as  Columella  (xii.  50)  enjoined.  The 
careless  Spaniard  is  rude  and  un- 
scientific in  this,  as  in  his  wine-making ; 
he  looks  to  quantity,  not  quality.  The 
berries  are  then  placed  on  a  circular 
hollowed  stone,  over  which  another  is 
moved  by  a  mule ;  the  crushed  mass, 
horwfOy  horvjOy  is  shovelled  on  to  roimd 
mats,  capuchos,  made  of  esparto,  and 
taken  to  the  press,  el  trujal,  which  is 
forced  down  by  a  very  long  and 
weighty  beam  (the  precise  Bi^fa,  Tra- 
petum,  iXeita  rfiUtov),  composed  of  6  or 
7  pine-trees,  like  a  ship's  bowsprit, 
over  which,  in  order  to  resist  the 
strain,  a  heavy  tower  of  masonry  is 
built ;  a  score  of  frails  of  the  horugo 
is  placed  under  the  screw,  moistened 
with  hot  water,  which  is  apt  to  make 
the  oil  rancid.  The  hquor  as  it 
flows  out  is  passed  into  a  reservoir 
below  ;  the  residuum  comes  forth 
like  a  damson-cheese,  and  is  used  for 
fuel  and  for  fattening  pigs;  the  oil 
as  it  rises  on  the  water  is  skimmed 
off,  and  poured  into  big-bellied  earthen 
jars,  tinajas,  and  then  removed  into 
still  larger,  which  are  sunk  into  the 
ground.  Qliese  amphoree,  made  chiefly 
at  Coria,  near  Seville,  recall  the  jars  of 
the  forty  thieves  ;  some  will  hold  from 
200  to  300  arrobas,  i.  e.  from  800  to 
1200  gallons. 

The  oil,  aceite  (Arabic^  azzait),  is 
strong  and  unctuous,  and  the  real  juice 
of  the  berry,  and  not  equal  perhaps  in 
delicacy  to  the  purer,  finer  produce  of 
Lucca,  but  the  Spaniards,  from  habit, 
think  the  Italian  oil  insipid.  The 
second-class  oils  are  coarse,  thick,  and 
green-coloured,  and  are  exported  for 
soap-making  or  used  for  lamps.  Can- 
dles are  rare  in  Spain,  where  the  an< 
cient  lamp,  el  velon  or  candil  (Arabic^ 
kandeel),  prevail,  and  are  exactly  such 
as  are  found  at  Pompeii ;  the  growers  of 
oil  petitioned  against  hghting  Spanish 
towns  with  gas,  "  lamps  being  prefer- 
able to  this  thing  of  the  foreigner."    A 


216 


ROUTE  8. — SEVILLE  TO  RIO  TINTO. 


Sect.  IT. 


large  farm  ia  a  little  colony ;  the  la- 
bourers, fed  by  the  proprietor,  are 
allowed  bread,  garlic,  salt,  oil,  vin^ar, 
and  pimientos,  which  they  make  into 
migas  and  oriental  gazpacho  (Arabic^, 
soaked  bread),  without  which,  in  the 
burning  summers,  their  "  souls  would 
be  dried  away"  (Numb.  xi.  6).  Bread, 
oil,  and  water  was  a  lover's  gift  (Hosea 
ii.  5).  Xhe  oil  and  vinegar  are  kept 
in  cow-horns  ("  the  horn  of  oil,"  1  Sam. 
xyi.  13),  which  hang  at  their  cart  sides. 
This  daily  allowance,  'E.<rtw9m  *H^m«- 
T^a^iSt  ChcemXf  corresponds  minutely 
with  theusages  of  antiquity  as  described 
by  Cato  (B.  B.  56),  and  Stuckius 
(Antiq.  Conviv.  i.  22  ;  ed.  1695).  The 
use  of  oil  is  of  the  greatest  antiquity 
(Job  xxiv.  2)  :  it  supplies  the  want  of 
fikt  in  the  lean  meats  of  hot  climates. 

The  olive  forms  the  food  of  the 
poorer  classes.  GDhe  ancient  distinc- 
tions remain  unchanged.  The  first 
class,  SegicB,  MajorincBy  are  still  called 
las  Meynaa,  leu  Fadronas.  The  finest 
are  made  from  the  gordaly  wliich  only 
grows  in  a  circuit  of  5  L.  round 
Seville:  the  berry  is  gathered  before 
quite  ripe,  in  order  to  preserve  the 
green  colour :  it  is  pickled  for  6  days 
in  a  Salmuera^  or  brine,  made  of 
water,  salt,  thyme,  bay-laurel,  and 
garlic;  without  this,  the  olive  would 
putrefy,  as  it  throws  out  a  mould, 
nata.  The  middling,  or  second  classes, 
are  called  las  MedianaSf  also  las  Mo- 
radas,  from  their  purple  colour ;  these 
are  often  mixed  in  a  strong  pickle,  and 
then  are  called  Alihadas:  the  worst 
sort  are  the  Sebusco,  Recuses,  or  the 
refuse ;  these,  well  begarlicked  and  be- 
pickled,  form  a  staple  article  of  food 
for  the  poor.  The  olive  is  nutritious, 
but  heating;  the  better  classes  eat  them 
sparingly,  although  a  few  are  usually 
placed  in  saucers  at  their  dinners;  they 
have  none  of  the  ancient  luxury,  those 
Aselli  Corinthii,  or  silver  donkeys, 
laded  with  paiiriers  of  different  co- 
loured olives  (Petr.  Arb.  31 ;  Ovid, 
Met.  viii.  664). 

The  geologist  may  visit  Villanueva 
del  Mio,  7  L.  from  Seville,  and  examine 
♦he  coal  mines,  which,  long  neglected. 


are    now    worked    by    the    Reunion 
Company. 


Route  8. — Seville  to  Rio  Tinto 

AlfD  AXMADElf. 

L. 

Venta  de  Pl^anosa      .     .     .  3i 

Algarrobo li 

Castillo  de  las  Gnardias    .     .  3 

RioTinto 6 

Aracena 6 

Fuentes  de  Leon    ....  5 

Segura  de  Leon 1 

Valencia 3 

Fuente  de  Cantos  ....  1 

Llerena 4 

Guadalcanal 4 

Fuente  Ovejuna     ....  6 

Velalcazar 5 

Almaden 6 

Santa  Eufemia 3 

Al  vlso  de  los  Pedroches  .     .  2 

Villanueva  del  Dnque.     .     .  2 

Villaharta  or  Villarta .     .     .  5 

Cordova 6 

This  is  a  riding  tour  of  bad  roads 
and  worse  accommodations;  attend, 
therefore,  to  the  provend;  and  get 
letters  of  introduction  to  the  superin- 
tendents of  the  mines.  The  distances 
must  be  taken  approximately,  as  they 
are  mountain  leagues.  The  botany  is 
highly  interesting,  and  game  abundant. 
A  doublcbarrel  gun  is  useful  in  more 
respects  than  one.  For  some  remarks 
on  mines  in  Spain  and  the  most  useful 
books,  see  Cartagena,  and  p.  839. 

Passing  through  Italica,  the  high 
road  to  Badajoz  is  continued  to  the 
Venta  de  Fajanosa,  4i  L. ;  then  a  rude 
track  turns  off  to  the  I.  over  a  waste  of 
cistus  and  aromatic  flowers  to  Algar- 
xoboy  1  L.,  a  small  hamlet,  where  bait. 
Hence  3  L.  over  a  similar  country  to  a 
mountain  village,  Castillo  de  las  QvamT' 
diasy  so  called  from  its  Moorish  watch- 
fort  :  here  we  slept.  5  L.,  over  a  lonely 
dehesa,  lead  next  day  to  Mio  TintOy 
where  there  is  a  decent  posada.  The 
red  naked  sieves  of  the  copper  moun- 
tain, I/a  Cabeza  Coloraday  with  clouds 
of  smoke  curhng  over  dark  pine- woods, 
announce  from  afar  these  celebrated 
mines.  The  immediate  approach  to 
the  hamlet  is  like  that  to  a  minor  in- 
fernal region;    the  road  is  made  of 


Andcducia, 


ROUTE  8. — RIO  TINTO. 


217 


burnt  ashes  and  escoriaB,  the  walls  are 
composed  of  lava-like  dross,  while  hag- 
gard miners,  with  sallow  faces  and 
blackened  dress,  creep  about,  fit  deni- 
zens of  the  place  ;  the  green  coppery 
stream  which  winds  under  the  bank  of 
firs  is  the  tinged  river,  from  whence 
the  Tillage  takes  its  name :  flowing  out 
of  the  bowels  of  ^he  mountain,  it  is 
supposed  to  be  connected  with  some 
internal  undiscovered  ancient  conduit : 
the  purest  copper  is  obtained  from  it ; 
iron  bars  are  placed  in  wooden  troughs, 
which  are  immersed  in  the  waters ; 
the  cascara,  or  flake  of  metal,  deposited 
on  it  is  knocked  off*;  the  bar  is  then 
subjected  to  the  same  process  until 
completely  eaten  away.  The  water  is 
deadly  poisonous,  and  stains  and  cor- 
rodes everything  that  it  touches. 

These  mines  were  perfectly  well 
known  to  the  ancients,  whose  shafts 
and  galleries  are  constantly  being  dis- 
covered. The  Bomans  and  Moors 
appear  chiefly  to  have  worked  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  hill;  the  enormous 
accumulation  of  escoriales  show  to 
what  an  extent  they  carried  on  opera- 
tions. 

The  village  is  built  about  a  mile 
from  the  mines,  and  was  raised  by  one 
Liberto  Wolters,  a  Swede,  to  whom 
Philip  V.  had  granted  a  lease  of  the 
mines,  which  reverted  to  the  orown  in 
1783.  Paralysed  bv  the  French  inva- 
sion, in  1829  it  was  farmed  to  Serior  Re- 
misa  for  20  years.  It  is  principally  oc- 
cupied by  the  miners,  but  the  empleados 
and  official  people  have  a  street  to 
themselves.  The  view  from  above  the 
church  is  striking ;  below  lies  the 
town  with  its  green  stream  and  orange- 
groves  J  to  the  1.  rises  the  ragged  copper- 
*hill,  wrapped  in  sulphureous  wreaths  of 
smoke;  while  to  the  rt.  the  magnifi- 
cent flat  fir  bank,  la  mesa  de  los  pinos, 
which  supplies  fuel  to  the  furnaces,  is 
backed  by  a  boundless  extent  of  dstus- 
clad  hills,  rising  one  over  another. 

A  proper  officer  will  conduct  the 
traveller  over  the  mines,  who  thus  fol- 
lows the  ore  through  every  stage  of  the 
process,  until  it  becomes  pure  copper ; 
visit  therefore  the  Castillo  de  Solomon 

Spain. — I. 


in  the  Caheza  Colorada.  Entering  the 
shaft,  you  soon  descend  by  a  well,  or 
pozo,  down  a  ladder,  to  an  under  gal- 
lery: the  heat  increases  with  the  depth, 
as  there  is  no  ventilation;  at  the  bottom 
the  thermometer  stands  at  80  Fahr., 
and  the  stout  miners,  who  drive  iron 
wedges  into  the  rock  previously  to 
blasting,  work  almost  naked,  and  the 
few  clothes  they  have  on  are  perfectly 
drenched  with  perspiration  ;  the  scene 
is  gloomy,  the  air  close  and  poisonous, 
the  twinkling  flicker  of  the  miners' 
tapers  blue  and  unearthly ;  here  and 
there  figures,  with  lamps  at  their  breasts, 
flit  about  like  the  tenants  of  the  halls 
of  Eblis,  and  disappear  by  ladders  into 
the  deeper  depths.  Melancholy  is  the 
sound  of  the  pick  of  the  solitary  work- 
man, who,  alone  in  his  stone  niche,  is 
hammering  at  his  rocky  prison,  like 
some  confined  demon  endeavouring  to 
force  his  way  to  hght  and  liberty. 

The  copper  is  found  in  an  iron 
pyrites,  and  yields  about  five  per  cent. 
The  stalactites  are  very  beautiful ;  for 
wherever  the  water  trickles  through 
the  roof  of  the  gallery,  it  forms  icicles, 
as  it  were,  of  emeralds  and  amethysts  ; 
but  these  bright  colours' oxidize  in  the 
open  air,  and  are  soon  changed  to  a 
dun  brown.  When  the  Zafra,  or 
rough  ore,  is  extracted,  it  is  taken  to 
the  Caicinacionf  on  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  and  is  there  burnt  three  times  in 
the  open  air ;  the  sulphur  is  sublimated 
and  lost,  as  it  passes  off  in  clouds  of 
smoke ;  the  rough  metal,  which  looks 
like  a  sort  of  iron  coke,  is  next  carried 
to  be  smelted  at  houses  placed  near  the 
stream,  by  whose  water-power  the 
bellows  are  set  in  action.  The  metal 
is  first  mixed  with  equal  parts  of  char- 
coal and  escoriales,  the  ancient  ones 
being  preferred,  and  is  then  fused  with 
brezo,  a  sort  of  fael  composed  of  cistus 
and  rosemaiy.  The  iron  flows  away 
Uke  lava,  and  the  copper  is  precipitated 
into  a  pan  or  copeUa  below.  It  is  then 
refined  in  ovens,  or  reverberos,  and 
loses  about  a  third  of  its  weight ;  the 
scum  and  impurities  as  they  rise  to  the 
surface  are  scraped  ofi*  with  a  wooden 
hoe.     The  pure  copper  is  then   sent 

L 


218 


EOUTE  8. — SEVILLE,  TENTUPU.. 


Sect.  II. 


either  to  Seville  to  the  cannon-foundry, 
or  to  Segovia,  to  be  coined. 

There  is  a  direct  cross-ride  over  the 
wild  mountains  to  Quadalcanal  and 
Almaden.  Attend  to  the  provend  and 
take  a  local  guide.  It  is  lar  better  to 
make  a  detour  and  visit  Aracena,  5  L. 
and  6  hours'  ride,  over  trackless,  life- 
less, aromatic  ^ide  wastes  of  green  hills 
and  blue  skies  :  afber  Compo  FHo,  2  L., 
the  countiy  improves  and  becomes 
quite  park-hke  and  English.  Aracena 
is  seen  &om  afar  crowning  a  mountain 
ridge :  here  is  a  good  poaada ;  popu- 
lation about  5000,  which  is  swelled  in 
the  summer,  when  the  cool  breezes 
tempt  the  wealthy  £rom  Seville  to  this 
Corte  de  la  Sierra,  Ascend  to  the 
ruined  Moorish  castle  and  church, 
which  commands  a  splendid  moimtain 
panorama.  The  Arabesque  belfry  has 
been  capped  with  an  incongruous  mo- 
dem top.  It  was  to  Aracena  that  the 
learned  Arias  Montana  retired  after 
his  return  from  the  Council  of  Trent. 
IVom  hence  there  is  a  direct  bridle- 
route  to  Llerena^  12  L.,  turning  off  to 
the  rt.  to  Arroyo  MoHnos,  4i  L.,  and 
crossing  the  great  Badajoz  and  Seville 
road  at  Monasterio  3,  thence  on  to 
Montemolin  2,  Llerena  3.  There  is  a 
direct  road  from  Aracena  to  Badajoz, 
through  Xerez  de  los  Cahalleros,  a  pic- 
turesque old  town  with  Moorish  walls 
and  a  grand  tower ;  remembering,  on 
passing  Fre^fenaljto  observe  at  Higuera 
la  Eealy  ^  L.,  the  6  pictures  by  Morales 
in  the  parish  church. 

Let  us  first  mention  the  route  on  to 
Zqfra. '  The  country  is  charming. 
Leaving  Aracena,  5  L.  of  iniquitous 
l*oad  lead  to  Fuenfes  de  Leon:  the 
country  resembles  the  oak  districts  of 
Sussex,  near  Petersfield ;  in  these  En" 
cinares  vast  herds  of  swine  are  fattened. 
At  CarhoneraSy  1  L.,  the  route  enters  a 
lovely  defile,  with  a  clear  torrent;  all 
now  is  verdure  and  vegetation,  fruit 
and  flower.  The  green  grass  is  most 
refreshing,  while  the  air  is  perfumed 
with  wild  flowers,  and  gladdened  by 
songs  of  nightingales.  How  doubly 
beautiful,  as  reminding  one  of  dear 
England  1     These   districts   once  be- 


longed to  the  rich  convent  of  San 
Marcos  of  Leon.  Thence  to  Segv/ra  de 
Leon,  1 L.,  which  is  approached  through 
a  grove  of  pine-trees,  above  which  the 
fine  old  castle  soars,  commanding  a 
noble  view.  It  is  in  perfect  repair, 
and  belonged  to  the  Infante  Don  Carlos. 
Valencia  de  Leon  has  also  another  well- 
preserved  castle,  with  a  square  torre 
mochaf  or  keep  :  observe  the  brick  belfry 
of  the  parish  church,  with  its  machico- 
lations and  fringe  of  Gothic  circles.  In 
these  vicinities  occurred  one  of  those 
authentic  miracles  so  frequent  in  Spa- 
nish history,  and  so  rare  elsewhere.  In 
the  year  1247  Don  Pelayo  Perez  Correa 
was  skirmishing  with  some  Moors, 
when  he  implored  the  Virgin  to  detain 
the  day,  promising  her  a  temple,  as 
Ceesar  did  at  Pharsalia,  to  vow  a  temple 
Tji  yivfiru^ify  to  Venus  Q-enetrix,  App. 
B.  C.  ii.  492.  The  sun  was  instantly 
arrested  in  its  course  (compare  Oran  at 
Toledo).  The  chapel  built  by  Correa, 
which  marks  the  site,  is  still  called 
Santa  Maria-Tudia-Tendudia,  a  corrup- 
tion of  his  exclamation,  Deten  tu  el 
dia  !  Thus  the  immutable  order  of  the 
heavens  was  disarranged,  in  order  that 
^guerillero  might  complete  a  butchery, 
by  which  the  grand  results  of  the  Seville 
campaign  were  scarcely  even  influenced. 
This  was  a  true  miracle  of  Spain,  that 
country  of  localism,  for  no  change  in 
the  solar  system  ever  was  observed  by 
the  Gfalileos  and  Newtons  of  other  parts 
of  the  world.  Correa  on  the  same 
day  struck  a  rock,  whence  water  issued 
for  his  thirsty  troops.  See  Espinosa^ 
^  Hist,  de  Sevilla,*  iv.  156.  Accord- 
ingly, in  the  *  Memorias  de  San  Fer- 
naiidoy  iii.  116,  Madrid,  1800,  this  won- 
der working  partisan  is  justly  termed 
the  Moses  a'nd  Joshua  of  Spain. 

Crossing  the  Badajoz  road,  we  now 
turn  to  the  rt^,  to  Llerena,  Begiana, 
an  old  walled  agricultural  town  of 
some  5000  souls,  and  of  little  interest 
save  to  the  lover  of  miraculous  tauro- 
machia.  Here,  on  the  vigU  of  San 
Marcos,  and  it  occurred  in  other  neigh- 
bouring villages,  the  parish  priest, 
dressed  in  fiiU  canonicals,  and  at- 
tended by  his  flock,  proceeded  to  a 


AndcUucia,      route  8. — llerena — ^toro  of  ban  marcos. 


219 


herd  of  cattle,  and  selected  a  bull,  and 
christened  him  bj  the  name  of  Mark, 
the  ox  being  the  symbol  of  that  apostle. 
The  proselyte  then  followed  his  leader 
to  mass,  entering  the  church  and  be- 
haying  quite  correctly  all  that  day; 
but  he  took  small  benefit  either  in  beef 
or  morals,  for  on  the  morrow  he  re- 
lapsed into  his  former  bullhood  and 
brutality.  After  mass  he  paraded  the 
Tillage,  decorated  with  flowers  and 
ribands,  a  sort  of  Baeuf  Chras^  and  be- 
haying  like  a  lamb ;  and  as  he  was 
miraculously  tame,  sine  fomo  in  comUy 
the  women  caressed  him,  as  MarquitOy 
dear  little  Mark.  Such  was  the 
Egyptian  adoration  of  Apis,  such  the 
Elean  idolatiy,  where  the  females  wor- 
shipped Bacchus  under  a  tauriform  in- 
carnation (Plut.  Q.  R. ;  Keiske,  yii. 
196).  If  the  selected  bull  ran  restiye, 
and  declined  the  honour  of  ephemeral 
sainthood,  as  John  Bull  sometimes  does 
knighthood,  the  blame  was  laid  on  the 

Eriest,  and  the  miracle  was  supposed  to 
aye  failed  in  consequence  of  his  un- 
worthiness:  he  was  held  to  be  in  a 
state  of  peccado  mortcUt  and  was  re- 
garded with  an  evil  eye  by  the  sus- 
picious husbands  of  the  best-looking 
Fasiphaes.  If  Marquito  stopped  before 
any  house,  the  inhabitants  were  sus- 
pected of  heresy  or  Judaism,  which 
was  nosed  by  the  bull,  as  truffles  are  by 
poodle  dogs.  It  will  easily  be  guessed 
what  a  powerful  engine  in  the  hands 
of  the  priest  this  pointing  proboscis 
jnust  have  been,  and  how  eSectuaUy 
it  secured  the  payment  of  church-rates 
and  Easter  offerings.  The  learned 
Feyjoo,  in  his  *  Teatro  CriUcOt  yi, 
205,  dedicates  a  paper  to  this  miracle, 
and  devotes  26  pages  to  its  theological 
discussion. 

Near  Llerena^  April  11, 1812,  Lord 
Combermere,  with  his  cavalry,  put  to 
indescribable  rout  2600  French  horse, 
supported  by  10,000  infantry,  the  rear- 
guard of  Soult,  under  Drouet,  who 
was  retiring,  baffled  by  the  capture  of 
Badajoz.  Few  charges  were  more  "bril- 
liant and  successful "  than  this.  (Disp., 
April  16, 1812.)  They  rode  down  the 
flying  foe  like  stubble  in  the  plains. 


On  leaving  Llerenay  the  road  runs 
for  4  L.  over  wide  com  tracts,  studded 
with  conical  hiUs,  to  Cfuadalcanal, 
said  to  have  been  the  Celtic  Tereses, 
The  silver  and  lead  mines  are  situated 
about  a  mile  to  the  N.E.  The  river 
Genalija  divides  Estremadura  from 
Andalucia.  These  mines  were  disco- 
vered in  1509  by  a  peasant  named 
Delgado,  who  ploughed  up  some  ore. 
In  1698  they  were  leased  to  the  bro- 
thers Mark  and  Christopher  Fugger, 
the  celebrated  merchants  of  Augsburg, 
who  also  rented  the  quicksilver  mines 
at  Almaden ;  and  they,  keeping  their 
own  secret,  extracted  from  the  Pozo 
rioo  such  wealth  as  rendered  them 
proverbial,  and  Serrico  comounFucar 
meant  in  the  time  of  Cervantes  being 
as  rich  as  Croesus,  or,  as  we  should  say, 
a  Bothschild.  Tliey  built  a  street  in 
Madrid  after  their  name.  Their  de- 
scendants, in  1635,  were  forced  to  give 
the  mines  up  ;  but  previously,  and  in 
spite,  they  turned  in  a  stream  of  water. 
Yet  the  fame  of  their  acquisitions  sur- 
vived, and  tempted  other  speculators, 
with  "  dreams  of  worlds  qf  gold^^  and 
in  1726  Lady  Mary  Herbert  and  Mr. 
Gtige  endeavoured  to  drain  the  mines : 
these  are  Pope's 

**Ck)ngenial  soulfi!  whose  life  one  avarice 
Joins, 
And  one  fate  buries  in  th'  Aiturian  mines ;" 

a  sHght  mistake,  by  the  way,  in  the 
poet,  both  as  to  metal  and  geography. 
The  scheme  ended  in  nothing,  as 
the  English  workmen  were  pillaged 
by  the  Spaniards,  who  resented  seeing 
"  heretics  and  foreigners  "  coming  to 
carry  off  Spanish  bulHon.  In  1768 
one  T)iomas  Sutton  made  another  effort 
to  rework  them.  Thence  crossing  the 
JBembezar  to  Fuente  de  Ooejunay  pop. 
6500;  it  stands  on  the  crest  of  a 
conical  hill,  with  the  CoUgiata  on  the 
apex,  like  an  acropolis.  The  "  sheep- 
fountain,"  Fons  Malaria — some  say  the 
right  name  is  Ahejaray  alluding  to  the 
bees  and  honey — is  at  the  bottom  to 
the  W.:  coal-seams  occur  here,  and 
extend  to  T^llaharta,  The  direct  road 
to  Almaden  runs  through  Belalcazary 
20i  L.,  by  La  Oranja  5i,  Valsequillo 

l2 


220 


EOUTE  8. — ^ALMADEN  DEL  AZOGUE, 


Sect.  II. 


4,  Belalcazar  5,  Almctden  6 :  not  inte- 
resting, it  is  very  devoid  of  accommo- 
dation :  sleep  at  VaUequillo,  pop.  about 
8000,  placed  in  a  hilly  locality  near  the 
OnadiatOf  once  famed  for  the  wines 
grown  on  its  banks.  Belalcazar,  pop. 
2500,  stands  in  a  well-watered  plain. 
It  is  a  tidy  dull  town,  so  called  from 
its  foinner  most  magnificent  palatial 
fortress,  Sello  Alcazar,  built  in  144)5, 
by  Q-utierre  Sotomayor,  and  once  one 
of  the  grandest  in  Spain,  but  since 
used  as  a  quarry  by  the  boors.  It 
belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Osuna.  The 
Pozo  del  pilar  is  a  fine  work  j  hence 
crossing  the  GhiadcMnatilla  over  a 
broken  bridge  to  Santa  Eufemia  and 
Almaden. 

The  better  route,  perhaps,  although 
equally  wearisome,  is  by  Espiel,  which 
is  reached  following  for  five  hours  the 
Gxiadiato.  Espiel,  pop.  1000,  has  a 
hBAposada,  About  4  L.  on  the  road  to 
Cordova  is  a  fine  ruin,  the  Castle  de 
mano  de  hierro,  of  the  iron  hand. 

A  tiresome  ride  leads  to  "  Almaden 
del  Azogue^*  two  Arabic  words  which 
signify  "the  Mine  of  Quicksilver," 
and  show  whence  the  science  was 
learnt.  As  the  posada  is  miserable, 
lodge  in  some  private  house.  The  long 
narrow  street  which  constitutes  this 
town  is  placed  on  a  scarped  ridge : 
pop.  about  8000.  Walk  to  the  Glo- 
rieta,  at  the  jimction  of  three  roads, 
and  also  to  the  Retamar :  look  at  this 
sunburnt,  wind-blown  town,  which  is 
built  on  the  confines  of  La  Mancha, 
Andalncia,  and  Estremadura.  The 
Sisapona  Cetobrix  of  Pliny  (N.  H., 
xxxiii.  7)  was  somewhere  in  this  loca- 
lity. The  mine  is  apparentlj^  inex- 
haustible, becoming  richer  in  propor- 
tion as  the  shafts  deepen.  The  vein  of 
cinnabar,  about  25  feet  thick,  traverses 
rocks  of  quartz  and  slate,  and  runs 
towards  AVmadenejos.  Virgin  quick- 
silver occurs  also  in  pyrites  and  horn- 
stein,  and  in  a  greyish  conglomerate 
called  here  Fraylesca,  from  the  colour 
of  a  monk's  frock.  Gfenerally  the  mer- 
cury of  Almaden  is  not  found  in 
veins,  but  seems  to  have  impregnated 
^hree  vertical   strata  of  a  quurtzose 


sandstone,  associated  to  slates  rather 
carbonaceous.  About  4000  men  are 
thus  engaged  during  the  winter,  the 
heat  and  want  of  ventilation  ren- 
dering the  mercurial  exhalations  dan* 
gerous  in  summer.  The  gangs  work 
day  and  night,  about  6  hours  at  a 
time,  and  hew  the  hard  rock  almost 
naked.  There  are  three  veins,  called 
after  the  saints  Nicolas,  Francisco,  and 
Diego  ;  the  adit  lies  outside  the  town  \ 
the  descent  is  by  steep  ladders ;  the 
deepest  shaft  ia  said  to  be  1000  feet, 
and  the  lode  improves  the  deeper  it  is 
worked.  The  wells,  elsewhere  called 
Pozos,  are  here  termed  Tomos,  and  the 
shafts,  or  Ramales,  Canas :  they  extend 
under  the  town ;  hence  the  cracks  in 
the  parish  church.  The  mineral  is 
raised  by  a  splendid  mule-worked 
atahona.  The  arched  stone  galleries  are 
superb  :  the  furnaces  of  the  smelting- 
ovens,  in  which  the  ore  is  sublimed, 
are  heated  with  sweet-smelling  hrezo* 
The  men  thus  employed  are  much  more 
healthy  than  the  miners,  who  suffix 
from  salivation  and  paralysis.  The 
mercury  is  distilled  by  two  processes  ; 
either  by  that  used  at  Idria,  which  is 
the  best,  or  from  certain  ovens  or 
Buitrones,  Somos  de  Meverhero,  in- 
vented by  Juan  Alonso  de  Bustamente. 
An  original  engine  made  by  Watt  is 
still  in  use ;  elsewhere  it  would  be  put 
in  a  museum  as  a  curious  antique. 

The  quantity  of  mercury  now  ob- 
tained is  enormous.  The  Fuggers  only 
extracted  4500  quintals  annually ;  now 
between  20,000  and  25,000  are  pro- 
cured. The  price  has  also  lately  risen 
from  34  to  84  dollars  the  quintal. 
Almaden  produces  some  250,000^.  a 
year  profit  to  government,  and  is  one  of 
the  few  real  sources  of  income.  The 
quicksilver  always  has  been  a  royal 
monopoly,  and  as  its  possession  con- 
verted the  ore  of  the  new  world  into 
bullion,  has  led  to  indescribable  jobbing 
and  robbing :  the  management  latterly, 
since  the  pecuniary  importance  has 
increased,  has  been  given  to  a  gefe  of 
scientific  attainments,  and  schools  are 
instituted.  For  all  details  consult 
Minas  de  Almaden^  Casiano   Prado; 


Anddlitcia, 


ROUTE  9.^-SEVILLE-  TO  MADRID, 


221 


Widdrington,  ch.vii. ;  the  Ajmntes/hj 
Joaquim  Erguerra  del  Bayo ;  and  ditto, 
by  Lucas  de  Alduna;  see  also  the 
scientific  details  of  Kafael  Cabanillas, 
Madoz,  ii.  21.     (See  also  p.  339.) 

Those  who  do  not  wish  to  visit  Al' 
maden  may  return  to  Seville  from  Gua- 
dalcanal by  Constantinai  Laconimurgi, 
a  charming  fresh  mountain  town, 
whence  Seville  is  supplied  with  fruit 
and  snow :  thence  to  picturesque 
Cazalla,  3  L.  Equidistant  from  these 
two  towns  is  a  lead  and  silver  mine, 
called  La  Reyna.  The  iron-mines  at 
iEl  Pedroso  deserve  a  visit :  this  busy 
establishment  is  the  creation  of  Col. 
Elorza,  an  intelligent  Basque,  who 
made  himself  master  of  the  system  of 
machinery  used  in  England,  which  he 
has  here  adopted,  and  by  so  doing  has 
infused  life  and  wealth  into  this  Sierra, 
which  elsewhere  is  left  almost  aban- 
doned, roadless,  and  unpeopled.  Gl-ame 
of  eveiy  kind  abounds.  The  botany  is 
also  very  interesting.  At  CanUllana, 
mia^  6  £.,  the  mining  district  finishes, 
and  everywhere  the  escoruB  show  how 
much  it  once  was  worked.  Cantillana, 
according  to  Don  Quixote,  ii.  49,  is  the 
Lincoln  of  Spain,  over  which  the  devil 
looks.  Vamanos  por  otra  parte,  que 
estd  el  diablo  en  Cantillana — ^why  he 
should  be  there  particularly  none  can 
teU  but  himself.  The  ro&da  are  infa- 
mous, the  ferry  boats  bad,  in  spite  of 
the  great  traffic  between  Almaden  and 
SeviUe.  Hence  to  Seville,  by  Alcald 
del  Rio,  5  L.,  over  an  excellent  snipe  and 
woodcock  country,  but  without  any 
accommodation  for  horse,  wheel,  or 
man,  except  at  .  the  miserable  el  Bo- 
degon.  From  Cazalla  a  route  passes 
on  to  the  coal-mines  of  VilloMueva  del 
Rio,  long,  in  spite  of  the  facility  of 
water-carriage,allowed  to  remain  almost 
lost :  now  they  are  in  work,  and  the 
mine  of  Col.  Elorza  was  by  far  the  most 
scientifically  conducted.  The  coal  is 
well  adapted  for  steam-engiaes.  The 
river  may  be  either  crossed  at  Alcolea 
del  Rio,  or  the  land  route  through 
Santi  Ponce  regained. 

The  geologist  and  botanist,  when 
once  at  Almaden,  may  either  join  the 


Madrid  road  oX  Tnijillo,  having  visited 
Logrosan  and  Q-uadalupe,  or  strike 
down  to  Cordova  by  a  wild  bridle-road 
of  18  L.  This  ride  occupies  3  days  : 
the  first  is  the  shortest,  baiting  at  Santa 
Eufemia  and  sleeping  at  Viso.  Santa 
Eufemia  domineers  over  the  fertile 
plain  of  Pedroohes,  which  separates 
the  table-land  of  Almaden  from  the 
range  of  the  -  Sierra  Morena :  here 
mica  slate  occurs,  followed  by  granite, 
which  commences  at  Vho,  an  agricul- 
tural town  of  some  2500  inhab.,  and 
distant  12  L.  from  Cordova.  The  second 
day  the  country  is  tolerably  well  cul- 
tivated until,  after  a  wild  dehesa,  you 
ascend  the  Sierra  Morena  .\  the  coun- 
try becomes  now  most  romantic  and 
full  of  deep  defiles,  leading  into  the 
central  chains.  The  hills  are  round- 
backed,  and  of  moderate  elevation,  cO!- 
vered  with  jaras  and  aromatic  shrubs, 
but  utterly  uninhabited,  Villaharta, 
where  sleep,  is  a  picturesque  village 
on  a  slope  of  the  Solana,  The  last 
day's  ride  continues  through  the  sierra, 
amid  pine-forests,  with  traces  of  seams 
of  coal,  which  extend  W.  to  JEspiel  and 
Valmez,  to  a  venta,  from  whence  you 
look  down  on  the  plains  of  Andalucia, 
and  descend  in  about  3  h.  to  Cordova. 
This  hne  is  of  the  highest  interest  to 
the  geologist  and  botanist.  From 
Almaden  to  Ciudad'R^Bi  are  16 L.,  and 
it  is  in  contemplation  to  construct  a 
regular  road. 

Route  9. — Setille  to  Madeid. 


AlcaU  de  Guadaira 
Mairena .     . 
Cannona.     . 
La  Portuguesa 
La  Luisiana. 
Ec^.     .     . 
LaCarlota  , 
Mapgo  Negro 
Coniova  .     . 
Casa  Blanca, 
Carpio    .     . 
Aldea  del  Rio 
SaDta  Cecilia 
AndT:^r .     . 
Caoa  del  Rey 
Bailen    .     . 
Guarroman  . 
La  Carolina . 
Santa  Elena. 
Ya.  de  Cardenas 


2 

2  ..  4 

2  ..  6 

2i  ..  84 

3i  ..  12 

3  ..16 

4  ..  19 


3 
3 


»  _• 


2? 
,  25 
2*  ..  2ti 
2+  ..  30 
3*  ..  33* 
2i  ..  36 
2i  ..  38i 
2i  ..  41 
2  ..43] 
2  ..46 
2  ..  47 
2  ..49 
2  ..  51 


222 


EOUTE  9. — MAIRENA — CARMONA. 


Sect.  II. 


Almnradiel .... 
Santa  Cruz  .  .  .  . 
Yaldepeilas  .... 
Consolacion.  .  .  . 
Manzanares.  .  .  . 
Ya.  de  Quesada .     .     . 

Villarta 

Puerto  Lapiche.  .  . 
Madride:jos  .... 
Canada  de  la  Higuera  . 
Tembleque  .... 
La  Quanlia  .... 

OcaOa     

Aranjnez  .... 
Espartinas  .... 

Angeles 

Madrid 


2     ..63 
2i  ..  55i 
2     ..  6H 
2     ..  59i 
2i  ..  62 
2     ..  64 

2i  ..  eei 

2     ..  68i 

..  Hi 

..  1H 

..  n* 

3*  ..  81 

2  ..83 
2i  ..   86i 

3  ..  88i 
2i  ..  91 


3 
2 
2 
2 


When  ladies  are  in  the  case  it  will 
he  prudent  to  write  beforehand  to  some 
firiend  in  Madrid  to  secure  quarters  at 
an  hotel.  This  wearisome  journey  is 
now  (1854)  shortened  by  the  rail,  which 
is  opened  from  Tembleque  to  Madrid  ; 
this  high  road  is  in  very  bad  order  j 
the  accommodations  are  indifferent; 
the  diligence  inns  are  the  best. 

After  leaving  the  basin  of  the  Gua- 
dalquivir the  road  crosses  the  Sierra 
Moreno^  ascending  to  the  dreary  cen- 
tral table-lands.  Cordova  is  almost 
the  only  object  worth  visiting  on  the 
whole  Ime.  There  is  some  talk  of  a 
railroad  to  connect  that  city  with 
Cadiz  by  the  level  line  of  the  Guadal- 
quivir, to  be  made  and  paid  for  by 
Britons  bold. 

For  Alcaldy  its  fine  castle,  bread,  and 
water-springs,  see  p.  159.  Maprena 
del  Alcor^  was  once  celebrated  for 
its  3  days'  horse-fair,  held  April  25th, 
26th,  and  27th.  It  was  a  singular 
scene  of  gipsies,  legs  chalanes,  and  pic- 
turesque blackguards :  here  the  Majo 
and  Mqfa  shone  in  all  their  glory. 
The  company  returned  to  Seville  at 
sunset,  when  all  the  world  was  seated 
near  the  Canos  de  Carmona  to  behold 
them.  The  correct  thing  for  a  Mafo 
fino  used  to  be  to  appear  every  day  on 
a  different  horse,  and  in  a  different 
costume.  Such  a  majo  rode  through 
a  gauntlet  of  smiles,  waving  fans  and 
handkerchiefs  :  thus  his  face  was 
whitened,  saU6  muy  Iwcido.  The  Maja 
always,  on  these  occasions,  wore  the 
Caramhay  or  riband  fo'nged  with  silver, 
and  fastened  to  the  MoiiOf  or  knot  of 


her  hair.  She  ought  also  to  have  the 
portrait  of  her  Querido  round  her 
neck.  The  Majo  always  had  2  em- 
broidered handkerchiefs — ^her  work — 
with  the  comers  emerging  firom  his 
jacket  pockets;  but  all  tMs  picturesque 
nationality  is  getting  obsolete,  and  is 
voted  uncivilized. 

Cresting  an  aromatic  uncultivated 
tract,  the  clean  white  town  of  Carmona 
rises  on  the  E.  extremity  of  the  ridge, 
commanding  the  plains  both  ways. 
The  prefix  car  indicates  this  "  height." 
The  old  coins  found  here  are  inscribed 
"  Carmo,*'  Elorez,  *M.'  i.  289.  Csesar 
fortified  the  city,  "  the  strongest  in  the 
province,"  which  remained  faithful  to 
the  Goths  imtil  betrayed  to  the  Moors 
by  the  traitor  Julian :  St.  Ferdinand 
recovered  it  Sept.  21,  1247,  and  his 
standard  is  borne  every  anniversary  to 
the  Hermitage  Sn.  Mateo,  founded  by 
him.  He  gave  the  city  for  arms,  a 
star  with  an  orle  of  lions  and  castles, 
and  the  device  "  Sicut  Lucifer  lucet  in 
AurorA,  sic  in  WandaH§.  Carmona." 
Don  Pedro  added  largely  to  this  castle, 
which  he  made,  as  regarded  Seville, 
what  Edward  III.  did  of  Windsor,  in 
reference  to  London :  here,  in  1368, 
he  kept  his  jewels,  money,  mistresses, 
and  children.  After  his  defeat  at 
Montiel,  his  governor,  Mateos  Fer- 
nandez, surrendered  to  Enrique  on 
solemn  conditions  of  amnesty,  all  of 
which  were  immediately  violated,  and 
himself  and  many  brave  soldiers  exe- 
cuted. The  site  is  still  called  el  Bio 
del  CuchiUo ;  but  Spaniards  say  that 
capitulations  make  good  paper  to  light 
cigars  with. 

CarmofMf  the  Moorish  Karmunah, 
with  its  Oriental  walls,  castle,  and  po- 
sition, is  very  picturesque :  pop.  15,000. 
Fonda  de  las  Diligendas  good :  and  a 
Posada  on  the  suburban  plaza.  Ob- 
serve the  tower  of  San  Pedro,  which 
is  an  imitation  of  the  metropolitan 
Giralda ;  remark  the  massy  walls  and 
arched  Moorish  city-entrance.  The 
patio  of  the  university  is  Moorish ; 
the  church  is  of  excellent  Gt)thic,  and 
built  by  Anton.  Gallego,  obt.  1518. 
The  "  Descent  of  the  Cross"  is  by  Pa- 


Andcducia, 


ROUTE  9.— CARMONA — ^ECUA — CORDOVA. 


223 


checo;  a  Yenetian-like  San  Cnstobal 
has  been  repainted.  The  Alameda 
with  its  fountain,  between  a  dip  of  the 
hills,  is  pleasant ;  by  starting  half  an 
hour  before  the  diligence,  all  this  may 
be  seen,  and  the  coach  caught  up  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hill.  The  striking 
gate  leading  to  Cordova  is  built  on 
Koman  foundations,  with  an  Herrera 
elevation  of  Doric  and  Ionic ;  the  alca- 
z&r,  towering  above  it,  is  a  superb  run. 
Don  Pedro  and  the  CathoKo  kings 
were  its  chief  decorators,  as  their 
badges  and  arms  show.  The  view 
over  the  vast  plains  below  is  magnifi- 
cent ;  the  Bonda  and  even  G-ranada 
chains  may  be  seen :  it  is  somewhat 
like  the  panorama  of  the  Grampians 
^m  Stirling  Castle,  on  a  tropical  and 
gigantic  scale.  Consult '  Antiguedades 
de  Ca/nmxynay  Juan  Salvador  Bautista 
de  Arellano,  8vo.,  Sevilla,  1618. 

Descending  into  the  plains,  the  road 
continues  over  aromatic  uninhabited 
uncultivated  wastes  :  soon  after  Mim- 
cloa,  with  its  palms,  a  bridge  is  crossed, 
formerly  the  lair  of  a  gang  of  robbers, 
called  Los  Ninos  de  JEcifa;  although 
now  extinct,  these  "  Boys "  are  im- 
mortal in  the  fears  and  tales  of  Spanish 
muleteers.  The  miserable  post-houses 
La  Portuffuesa  and  Im  Lidsiana^  called 
after  Spanish  queens,  are  almost  the 
only  abodes  of  man  in  this  tract  of 
rich  but  neglected  country. 

JEcija,  Astigi  (of  Greek  origin,  and 
the  dty  par  excellence),  in  the  time  of 
the  Bomans,  was  equal  to  Cordova  and 
Seville  (PUn.  *  N.  H.'  iii.  1 ;  Pomp. 
Mela,  ii.  6)  :  it  rises  amid  its  gardens 
on  the  Grenil,  the  great  tributary  of 
the  Guadalquivir,  just  where  it  was 
navigable:  pop.  24,000:  the  inn,  la 
Posta^  is  decent.  Ecija  is  a  well-built, 
gay-looking,  improving  town,  but  still 
socially  very  dull.  Some  of  the  Moorish 
gates  and  massy  towers  remain.  From 
the  extreme  heat  it  is  called  the  Sarie- 
nilla  de  Andahiciay  and  the  produce  of 
com  and  oil  is  consequently  very  great. 
This  roasted  and  toasted  town  bears 
for  arms  the  sun,  with  this  modest 
motto,  Una  sola  sera  llamada  la  (Xu- 
dad  del  Sol ;  thus  Boetican  frying-pans 


assume  the  titles  and  decorations  of  an 
HeUopolis. 

JEdja  boasts  to  have  been  visited  by 
St.  Paul,  whose  gilt  statue  surmounts 
the  triunfOf  placed  here  in  honour  of 
bis  having  converted  his  hostess,  Santa 
Xantippa,  wife  of  one  Prohus  (these 
shrew  grey  mares  always  have  good^ 
husbands).  See  for  authentic  details 
*  Eap.  Sag.'  iii.  14,  Ap,  viii.,  and  Bibad. 
ii.  284.  One  of  the  earhest  bishops  of 
Ecija  was  St.  Crispin,  but  that  was 
before  neighbouring  Cordova  was  so 
famous  for  its  Morocco  leather, 

Observe  the  Plasma  Major,  with  its 
pretty  acacias  and  Amazon  fountain, 
and  the^i«^'o  studded  church-towers : 
the  columns  in  those  of  Santa  Barbara 
and  Santa  Maria  are  Boman,  and  were 
brought  from  a  destroyed  temple,  once 
in  the  Calle  de  los  Marmoles,  The  house 
of  the  Marquis  de  Cortes  is  painted 
in  the  Genoese  style :  |here  the  king 
is  always  lodged.  Of  other  finely 
balconied  and  decorated  mansions  ob- 
serve those  of  Penaflor,  Benameji,  and 
Villaseca.  The  cloisters  of  San  Fran- 
cisco and  San  Domingo  may  be  visited. 
There  is  a  fine  but  narrow  bridge 
over  the  Gtemi :  the  edifice  at  its  head 
is  called  el  Bollo,  SI  Bollo  mkmt 
the  gallows,  usually  built  of  stone  and 
outside  of  the  town;  and  from  the 
steps  being  worn  rotmd  by  walkers  sit- 
ting down,  rollo  in  time  obtained  the 
secondary  meaning  of  a  promenade, 
a  pretty  one  that  ends  in  a  gibbet* 
Ecija  has  also  a  charming  alameda 
outside  the  town,  near  the  river,  with 
statues  and  fountains  representing  the 
seasons,  and  a  new  and  magnificent 
Plaza  de  Toros,  built  on  the  site  of 
a  Bqpan  amphitheatre.  For  local 
details  consult  ^  Edja  y  sus  Santos,' 
Martin  de  Boa,  4to.,  Sevilla,  1629; 
and  the  Adicion  of  Andres  Florindo, 
4to.,  Sev.  1631. 

10  L.  over  a  waste  lead  to  Cordova. 
Carlota  is  one  of  the  neuvas  pobla- 
clones,  or  the  newly-founded  towns,  of 
which  more  anon  (p.  236).  Cordova, 
over  which  so  many  associations  hover, 
seen  from  the  distance,  amid  its  oHves 
and    palm-trees,  and  backed  by  the 


224 


ROUTE  9. — CORDOVA. 


Sect.  II. 


conyent- crowned  sierra,  has  a  truly 
Oriental  look  :  inside  all  is  decay.    The 
diligence  inn  is  at  the  other  end  of  the 
to\*Ti.      Those  only  passing  through 
Cordova  should  get  out  at  the  bridge, 
look  at  the  Alcazar  and  Mosque,  then 
thread  the  one  long  street  and  take  up 
the  coach ;  and  as  roost  of  them  usually 
breakfast  or  sleep  here,  stopping  in  the 
first  case  about  2  h.,  ample  time  is 
thus  given  to  see  the  Mezquita.   Those 
going  to  ride  to  Granada  will  find  the 
Posada  del  Sol,  or  del  Puente,  humble, 
although  truly  Spanish,  more  conve- 
niently situated,  as  being  close  to  the 
mosque  and  bridge ;  it  is  the  resort  of 
muleteers.    N.B.  Drink  Montillaynne. 
Cordova  retains  its  time-honoured 
name.     Cor  is  a  common  Iberian  pre- 
fix, and  tuha  is  said  to  mean  important, 
Karta  tuba,    Bochart,  however,  reads 
Coteha,  the  Syrian  coteb,  "oil-press;" 
the  frapeta  (Mart.  vii.  28)  for  which 
this  locality  has  long  been  renowned. 
Corduba,  under  the  Carthaginians,  was 
the   "gem  of  the  South."     It  sided 
with  Pomp^,  and  was  therefore  half 
destroyed  by  Csesar:   23,000  inhabit- 
ants were  put  to  death  in  terrorem.   His 
lieutenant  Marcellus  (Hirt.  *  B.  A.'  57) 
rebuilt  the  city,  which  was  repeopled 
by  the  pauper  patricians  of  Bome; 
hence  its  epithet,    ^^  Patricia;"   and 
pride  of  birth  still  is  the  boast  of  this 
poor  and  servile  city.    La  cepa  de  Cor- 
dova is  the  aristocratic  "  stock,"  like  the 
ceti  of  Cortona  in  Italy.    The  Qreat 
Captain,  who  was  bom  near  Cordova, 
used  to  say  that  "  other  towns  might  bo 
better  to  live  iji,  but  none  were  better 
to  be  bom  in,**     As  the  Cordpvese 
barbs  were  of  the  best  blood,  so  the 
nobles  protested  theirs  to  be^of  the 
bluest.    This  sangre  azul  or  sangre  su, 
the  azure  ichor  of  this  ^te  of  the  earth, 
is  so  called   in    contradistinction  to 
common  red  blood,  the  puddle  which 
flows  in  plebeian  veins ;  while  the  blood 
of  heretics,  Lutherans,  Protestants,  and 
political  enemies,  is  held  by  Spanish 
sangrados  and  heralds  to  be  black, 
pitchy,    and    therefore    combustible. 
The  blood  of  Jews  especially  is  thought 
to  be  both  sable  and  to  stink;  and  it 


has  been  said  that  the  Jews  were  called 
Putos,  quia  putant ;  certainly,  as  at  Gib- 
raltar, an  unsavoury  odour  seems  genti- 
htious  in  the  Hebrew,  but  not  more 
so  than  in  the  orthodox  Spanish  monk. 

Boetica,  besides  blood,  was  renowned 
for  brains ;  and  the  genius  and  imar 
gination  of  the  Cordovese  authors  asto- 
nished ancient  Eome.  Seneca  (De 
Suas.  6  sub  fin.),  quoting  Cicero,  speaks 
of  the  "pingue  quiddson  atque  pere- 
grinum*'  as  the  characteristic  of  the 
style  of  Sextilius  Ena,  one  of  the  poets 
oifacunda  Cordoba,  the  birthplace  of 
himself,  the  unique  Lucan,  the  two 
Senecas,  and  of  other  Spaniards  who, 
writing  even  in  Latin,  sustained  the 
decline  of  Soman  poetry  and  hte- 
rature ;  not  but  what  the  turgid  Lucans 
of  Spain  corrupted  the  pure  Augustan 
style  of  Italy  of  old,  as  the  Cordovese 
(Angora  did  in  modem  times.  In 
these  older  works  must  be  sought  the 
real  diagnostics  of  Iberian  style.  The 
Andalucians  exhibited  a  marvellous 
(for  Spaniards)  love  of  foreign  litera- 
ture. Pliny,  jun.  (ii.  3),  mentions  an 
inhabitant  of  Cadiz  who  went  from 
thence,  then  the  end  of  the  world,  to 
Rome,,  on  purpose  to  see  Livy;  and 
having  feasted  his  eyes,  returned  imme- 
diately ;  St.  Jerome  names  another  An- 
dalucian,  one  Lacrinus  Licinius,  who 
offered  Pliny  400,000  nnmmi  for  his 
theil  unfinished  note-books.  Ces  beaux 
jours  sont  passes,  for  now  no  Anda- 
lucian  would  lose  one  bull-fight  for  all 
the  lost  Decades  of  twenty  Livys. 

Cordova,  under  the  Goths,  was 
termed  "holy  and  learned."  Osius, 
the  counsellor  of  Constantiue  and  the 
friend  of  St.  Athanasius,  who  pimningly 
called  him  vrxtov^teg,  was  its  bishop  from 
294  to  357 :  he  presided  at  the  Council 
of  Nice,  which  was  the  first  to  condemn 
prohibited  books  to  the  fire.  Under 
the  Moors,  Cordova  became  the  Athens 
of  the  West,  or,  in  the  words  of  Basis, 
the  "nurse  of  science,  the  cradle  of 
captains.'*  It  produced  Avenzoar,  or, 
to  write  more  correctly,  Abdel  Malek 
Ibn  Zohr,  and  Averroes,  whose  proper 
name  is  Abu  Abdallah  Ibn  Boshd ;  he 
it  was  who   introduced  Aristotle  to 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  9. — MOORISH  DYNASTIES. 


226 


Europe,  and,  in  the  words  of  Dante, 
"  il  gran  oommento  feo."  The  wealth, 
luxury,  and  civilization  of  Cordova, 
under  the  Beni-TJmmeyah  dynasty, 
almost  seems  an  Aladdin  tale;  yet 
Gayangos  -  has  demonstrated  its  his- 
torical accuracy.  All  was  swept  away 
by  the  Berbers,  true  Barbarians,  who 
burnt  palace  and  library. 

Spanish  Cordova  for  some  time  pro- 
duced sons  worthy  of  its  ancient 
renown.  Juan  de  Mena,  the  Chaucer, 
the  morning  star  of  Spanish  poetry, 
was  bom  here  in  1412;  as  was  Am- 
brosio  Morales,  the  Heame,  the  Leland 
of  the  Peninsula,  in  1513,  at  No.  10, 
Calle  del  Cabildo  Viefo ;  so  also  Tomas 
Sanchez,  the  Jesuit,  and  author  of  the 
celebrated  treatise  I)e  Matrimonio,  que 
le  sapeva  mas  del  Demonio.  The 
abominations  of  the  modem  Dens  are 
blank  cartridges  to  this  cloaca  of 
casuistic  filth  ;  yet  the  author  was 
innocent  of  any  obscene  intentions,  and 
treated  the  case  simply  as  a  surgeon 
dissects  a  subject.  The  best  and 
uncastrated  edit,  is  that  of  Antwerp,  3 
vols.  fol.  1607.  Here,  in  1538,  was 
bom  Pablo  de  Cespedea,  the  painter 
and  poet,  overrated  by  Spaniards  ;  and 
in  1561,  Luis  de  GI-ongora,theEuphuist; 
here,  in  San  NicolaSy  G-onzalo  de  Cor- 
dova, the  great  (and  truly  great)  Captain 
of  Spain  was  baptised.  Well,  therefore, 
might  Juan  de  Mena  follow  Basis  in 
addressing  his  birthplace  as  '*  the 
flower  of  knowledge  and  knighthood." 

Cordova  was  always  celebrated  for 
its  silversmiths,  who  came  originally 
from  Damascus,  and  continue  to  this 
day  to  work  in  that  chased  filigree 
style.  Juan  Ruiz,  M  VandolinOy  is  the 
Cellini  of  Cordova.  The  Joy  as — ^Ara- 
hio6  jauhaTy  brilliant — and  earrings  of 
the  peasantry  deserve  notice,  and  eveiy 
now  and  then  some  curious  antique  eme- 
rald-studded jewellerymaybepickedup. 

Homan  Cordova  resisted  the  Goths 
until  572,  but  Gothic  Cordova  was 
taken  by  the  Moors  at  once  by 
Mugueith  el  Bumi,  -the  Mogued  of 
Spanish  writers  ;  at  first  it  became  an 
appanage  of  the  Khalifa  of  Damascus. 
Q^e    successor  and  representative  of 


Mahomet,  the  Smir  at  Mumenin,  the 
Commander  of  the  Faithful ;  the  diss- 
tant  kingdom  in  756  declared  itself 
independent,  and  rose  to  be  the  capital 
of  the  Moorish  empire  of  Spain,  under 
Abderahman  (Abdu-^r-rahman,  the  ser- 
vant of  the  compassionate).  He  was 
the  head  and  last  remaining  heir  of  his 
dynasty,  the  Ummeyah,  which  had  been 
expelled  from  the  East  by  the  Abasside 
usurpers.  No  fiction  of  romance  ever 
surpassed  the  truth  of  his  eventful  life. 
Under  him  Cordova  became  the  Kali- 
fete  of  the  West,  and  the  rival  of 
Baghdad  and  Damascus,  and  was  the 
centre  of  power  and  civilization  in 
the  West,  and  this  at  a  time  when 
weakness,  ignorance,  and  barbarism 
shrouded  over  the  rest  of  Europe. 
This  revolt  in  Spain  dealt  th@  death- 
blow to  the  Kalifate  of  the  East,  and 
was  followed  by  the  loss  of  Africa. 
From  the  9th  to  the  12th  century 
Baghdad  was  eclipsed  by  Cordova, 
which  contained  in  the  tenth  century 
nearly  a  million  inhabitants,  300 
mosques,  900  baths,  and  600  inns.  It 
withered  imder  the  Spaniard ;  and,  rich 
and  learned  under  Boman  and  Moor, 
is  now  a  dirty,  benighted,  ill-provided, 
decaying  place,  with  a  popiilatipn  about 
55,000, 

The  most  flourishing  period  was  A.p, 
1009.  The  Moorish  dynasties  are 
usually  divided  into  four  periods; — 
The^r*^  extended  from  711  to  756. 
Then  the  newly-conquered  peninsuU 
was  called  the  Islandy  Gezirahy  and 
those  portions  which  were  not  under 
the  Moslem  Velad  Arrum,  thp  land 
of  the  Bomans,  as  the  Goths  were 
termed.  During  the  first  period  Spain 
was  governed  by  Amirs,  deputed  by 
the  Kalif  of  Damascus.  The  second 
period  commenced  when  Abdu-r-rah- 
man  declared  his  independence,  and 
made  Cordova  his  capital,  whence  he 
was  called  jLl-daJchely  "  the  enterer," 
the  conqueror.  This  period  extended 
from  756  to  1036,  and  its  dynasty 
declined  about  1031,  under  Hisbiba 
III.,  having  given  17  sultans.  The 
Moorish  power  in  Spain,  which  wa? 
founded  by  the  Ummeyahs,  fell  wi^ 

L  3 


226 


EOXTTE  9.— CORDOVA — RISE  AND  FALL. 


Sect.  II. 


them.    Now,  in  the  third  period,  two 
factions  took  the  lead  in  the  divided 
house ;   first,  the  Almoravides-Mura- 
bitins  (Itdbitos,  or  men  consecrated  to 
the  service  of  G^od,  the  types  of  the 
Christian  knights  of   Santiago),   and 
secondly,  their  rivals,   and  by  whom 
they  were  put  down  in  1146,  viz.  the 
Almohades,  or  Unitarian  Dissenters, 
or  fanatics   (Al  Muevahedun)  ;    they 
were  headed  by  Ibn- Abdallah,  a  Berber 
lamphghter,  who  persuaded  the  mob 
to  believe  that  he  was  the  Mehedi,  or 
*'  only  director,"  in  the  paths  of  virtue. 
There  was  no  tyranny,  no  Vandalism, 
which  this  JacK  Cade  in  a  turban  did 
not  commit.    This  degrading  domina- 
tion ceased  about  1227,  when  the  whole 
Moorish  system  was  shivered  to  pieces 
like  the  fragments  of  the  exploding 
shell,  or  (like  those  moUuscsD,  which, 
when  divided,  have  such  vitality,  that 
each    portion  becomes  a  new  living 
creature)  became  independent,  "  Quot 
urbes  tot  reges  ;"  each  portion  becom- 
ing the  prey  of  some  petty  ruler,  who 
being  atl  rival  upstarts,  never  acted 
cordially  together.    They  were  sheiks, 
however,  rather  than  hingsy  and  such 
as  those  of  which  Joshua  in  the  East, 
and  the  Cid  in  the  West,  overcame  so 
many.      This,  in    reading  the    early 
history  of  Spain,  must  always  be  re- 
membered.     The   misapplication,   or 
mistranslation  of  our- more  extensive 
term,  king,  for  the  lesser  title  of  a 
powerful  baron,  as  in  the  case  of  Lear, 
gives  an  air  of  disproportion  to  the 
narrative.    The  divided  and  weakened 
Moorish  principalities   gradually  fell 
before  the  united  Spaniards,  and  Cor- 
dova was  easily  taken,  June  30,  1235, 
by  St.  Ferdinand — a  king,  aye  every 
inch  a  king. 

Then  it  was  that  Ibnu-1-ahmar,  ^ 
vassal  of  St.  Ferdinand,  founded,  in 
1238, 1492,  the  fourth  and  last  dynasty, 
that  of  Ghranada,  which  after  two  cen- 
turies and  a  half,  was  in  its  turn 
undermined  by  internal  dissensions, 
until  the  union  of  Aragon  and  Castile 
under  Ferd,  and  Isab.,  taking  place  at 
the  period  of  the  greatest  Granadian 
'visions,    completed    the    final    con> 


quest,  and  terminated  the  Mohamedan 
dynasties  in  Spain.  The  Cordovese 
power  rose  with  the  master-minded 
Abderahmans,  and  was  maintained  by 
Al  Mansur,  the  mighty  captain-minister 
of  Hisham.  Even  then  a  germ  of 
weakness  existed,  for  the  Kalif  of 
Damascus  never  forgave  the  casting 
off  his  allegiance:  he  made  treaties 
with  the  French  against  the  Cordovese, 
while  the  Cordovese  allied  themselves 
with  the  emperor  of  Constantinople, 
as  the  rival  of  the  Eastern  kalif.  Both 
parties  occasionally  used  the  services 
of  the  Jews,  renegades,  mongrels,  Mu^ 
wallads  (disbelievers),  and  especially 
the  Berbers,  deadly  foes  to  the  Cordo- 
vese Moors,  whom  they  abhorred  as 
descendants  of  Yemen  and  Damascus, 
and  as  their  dispossessors,  for  they 
claimed  Spain  as  theirs  in  right  of 
their  Carthaginian  ancestors,  who  had 
fled  to  the  mountains  of  the  Atlas 
from  the  Bomans.  These  highlanders, 
although  Pagans,  and  utterly  ha/rha' 
rous,  thought  themselves  alone  to  be 
the  salt  of  the  earth,  and  assumed  the 
epithet  amarzeegh,  or  nobles.  At  once 
the  strength  and  weakness  of  the  Moors, 
first'  they  aided  in  conquering  the 
Goths,  and  then  turning  against  their 
allies,  upset  the  most  elegant  and 
accomplished  dynasty  that  Spain  has 
ever  witnessed. 

For  Cordova  consult  ^  Antiguedades 
de  Sspana,  Morales,  Alcaic  de  He- 
nares,  1575,  chap,  31 :  '  AlmaJcJcari^ 
translated  by  the  learned  P.  Q-ayangos. 
The  third  book  records  what  Cordova 
was  in  aU  its  glory.  Southey,  in  art.  i. 
'  Foreign  Quarterly  Review,'  has  given 
a  portion  of  the  10th  and  11th  vols,  of 
Florez,  ^  JEsp,  8ag.;^  ^  Los  Santos  de 
Cordova,^  M.  de  Roa,  4to.,  Sev.  16X5, 
Lyons,  1617,  or  4to.,  Cordova,  1627  ; 
De  Cordova  in  Hispanid,  and  ditto, 
4to.,  Lyons,  1617  ;  *  Antigiiedades  de 
Cordova,  Pedro  Diaz  de  Bivas,  4to., 
1624 ;  and  *  Antiguo  Principado  de 
Cordova^  M.  de  Boa,  4to.,  Cordova, 
1636  J  *  Palestra  Sagrada^  Bart«-  San- 
chez Feria,  4  vols.  4to.,  Madrid,  1772  ; 
*  Catalogo  de  los  Obispos  de  Cordova,* 
Juan  Gomez  Bravo,  9  vols.,  fol.,  1778, 


Andcducia, 


ROUTE  9. — CORDOVA — ^LA  MEZQUTTA. 


827 


and  the  Indicadory  by  Luis  Maria 
!Ramirez  de  las  Casas  Deza ;  and  the 
MoMualito  de  Cordova ;  read  also  Le- 
brecht's  essay  in  Ashur's '  JBer^'amin  de 
Tudela,  ii.  318. 

Cordoya,  this  Athens  under  the 
Idoor,  is  now  a  poor  Boeotian  place, 
the  residence  of  local  authorities,  with 
a  liceo,  theatre,  a  casa  de  esposUos, 
plaza  de  toros,  and  a  national  museo 
with  some  rubbish  in  San  PablOf  and 
a  library  of  no  particular  consequence; 
a  day  will  amply  suffice  for 'everything. 
The  city  arms  are  "  a  bridge  placed  on 
water,"  allusive  to  that  over  the  river ; 
the  foundations  of  it  are  Boman ;  the 
present  irregular  arches  were  built  in 
719  by  the  governor  Assamh.  At  the 
town  entrance  is  a  classical  Doric  gate 
erected  by  Herrera  for  Philip  II.  on 
the  site  of  the  Moorish  Babu-1-Kante- 
rah,  "the  gate  of  the  bridge."  The 
relievos  on  it  are  said  to  be  by  Torri- 
giano.  Near  this  is  SI  triunfOf  a 
triumph  of  superstition  and  churri- 
guerism,  which  was  erected  by  the 
Bishop  Martin  de  Barcia.  On  the 
top  is  the  Cordovese  tutelar  saint, 
Bafael,  who  clearly  is  unconnected 
with  his  namesake  of  Urbino.  The 
Alcazar  rises  to  the  1.,  and  was  built 
on  the  site  of  the  Balatt  JJudheric, 
the  Castle  of  Boderick,  the  last  of  the 
Goths,  whose  father,  Theofred,  was 
duke  of  Cordova ;  formerly  it  was  the 
residence  of  the  Inqxiisition,  and  then, 
as  at  Seville,  that  of  miserable  invalid 
soldiers.  The  lower  portions  were  con- 
verted into  stables  by  Juan  de  Minjares 
in  1584,  for  the  royal  stallions :  near 
Cordova  and  Alcolea  were  the  principal 
breeding-ground  for  Andalucian  barbs, 
until  the  estabhshment  was  broken  up 
by  the  invaders,  who  carried  off  the 
best  mares  and  staUions.  Here,  under 
the  Moors,  were  the  Alharag  (imde 
Haras),  the  mounted  guard  of  the 
king,  and  they  were  either  Christians, 
Mamelukes,  or  Sclavonians, /or«^««r*, 
with  whom  suspicious  despots  like  to 
surround  themselves. 

The  bishop's  palace,  close  by,  was 
built  in  1745,  and  is  in  a  bad  rococo 
ntyle :  the  inside  is  all  dirt,  decay,  and 


gUding,  marble  and  whitewash;  osten- 
tatious poverty.  In  the  Sala  de  la 
Audiencia  are  a  series  of  bad  portraits 
of  prelates.  Here  Ferdinand  VII.  was 
confined  in  1823,  and  attempted  to 
escape  through  the  garden,  in  which 
observe  the  gigantic  lemons,  Arabic^ 
la^moon.  The  artist  must  not  fail  to 
walk  below  the  bridge  to  some  most 
picturesque  Moorish  mills  and  pleasant 
fresh  plantations. 

The  cathedral  or  the^mosque.  La 
Mezqmta  as  it  is  still  called  (mesgad 
from,  masegad,  Arabic^  to  worship 
prostrate),  stands  isolated,  and  hajs 
served  as  the  chief  temple  to  many 
creeds,  each  in  their  turn.  The  exterior 
is  forbidding,  being  enclosed  by  waUs 
from  30  to  60  feet  high,  and  averaging 
6  feet  in  thickness  :  walk  round  them, 
and  observe  the  square  buttress  towers 
with  fire-shaped  or  bearded  parapets ; 
it  is  the  type  of  that  which  was  ai 
Seville.  Examine  the  rich  Moorish 
spandrils  and  latticed  openings  of  the 
different  entrances.  Enter  the  Court 
of  Oranges  at  the  Fuerta  del  Perdon, 
of  which  the  type  is  truly  Oriental 
(1  Chr.  xxviii.  6).  The  cistern  was 
erected  in  945-6,  by  Abdu-r-rahman. 
In  this  once  sacred  rt/isvas  and  "  Grove," 
this  ^^  court  ef  the  House  of  God," 
importunate  beggars,  although  bearded, 
cloaked,  Homeric,  and  patriarchal, 
worry  the  stranger  and  dispel  the  illu- 
sion. Ascend  the  belfry  tower,  which, 
like  the  Giralda,  was  shattered  by  a 
hurricane  in  1593 ;  it  was  recased  and 
repaired  the  same  year  by  Feman  Buiz, 
a  native  of  this  city.  The  courtyard 
was  bmlt  by  Said  Ben  Ayub  in  937 ; 
it  is  430  feet  by  210.  The  19  entrances 
into  the  mosque  are  now  closed,  save 
that  of  the  centre.  Observe  the  miliary 
columns  found  in  the  middle  of  the 
mosque  during  the  repairs  of  1532: 
the  inscriptions  (re-engraved  in  1732 !) 
record  the  distance,  114  miles,  to  Cadiz, 
from  the  Temple  of  Janus,  on  the  site 
of  which  the  mosque  was  bmlt.  The 
interior  of  the  cathedral  is  like  a 
basilicum,  for  the  Moors  introduced  a 
new  style  of  building  in  Spain,  n* 
rather  ppQverted  the  basilicum  tc 


228 


ROUTE  9. — CORDOVA — CATHEDRAL — THE  CECA.  Sect.  II. 


mosque,  as  they  had  adapted  the  Bible 
to  the  Koran.  This  specimen  offers 
the  finest  type  in  Europe  of  the  true 
temple  of  Islam.  The  labyrinth,  a 
forest  or  quincunx  of  pillars,  was  chiefly 
constructed  out  of  the  materials  of  a 
temple  of  Janus,  consecrated  to  St. 
George  by  the  aoths.  Out  of  the  1200 
monolithic  columns — now  reduced  to 
about  850 — ^which  once  supported  its 
low  roof,  115  came  from  Nismes  and 
Narbonne,  in.France ;  60  fix)m  Senile 
and  Tarragona,  in  Syain ;  while  140 
were  presented  by  Leo,  Emperor  of 
Constantinople;  the  remainder  were 
detached  &om  the  temples  at  Carthage 
and  other  cities  of  Afirica ;  the  columns 
are  in  no  way  uniform — some  are  of 
jasper,  porphyry,  verd-antique,  and 
other  choice  marbles :  neither  are  their 
diameters  equal  throughout,  the  shafts 
of  some  which  were  too  long  having 
been  either  sawed  off  or  sunk  into  the 
floor  to  a  depth  of  four  and  even  five 
and  six  feet ;  while  in  those  too  short, 
the  deficiency  was  supphed  by  means 
of  a  huge  and  disproportionate  Corin- 
thian capital,  thus  destroying  all  har- 
mony and  uniformity.  The  Moslem 
was  the  thief  of  antiquity.  This  pas- 
sion of  the  Arabs  for  appropriating 
Boman  remains  has  always  been  and 
is  general,  wherever  they  settled ;  the 
materials  of  their  buildings  were  seldom 
extracted  from  the  quarry.  From  the 
Tigris  to  the  Orontes,  from  the  Nile 
to  the  G^uadalquiver,  the  cities  of  the 
first  settlers  are  entirely  built  fr^m 
the  wreck  of  former  ones.  Ctesiphon 
and  Babylon  furnished  materials  for 
the  private  and  public  buildings  of 
Baghdad ;  Misr  was  transformed  into 
the  modem  Cairo :  Tunis  rose  out  of 
the  ruins  of  Carthage ;  and  in  Spain 
few  are  the  Koman  cities  whose  site 
was  not  changed  by  the  conquerors, 
by  transporting  their  materials  to  a 
distance  of  two,  three,  and  even  more 
miles,  from  the  original  spot  whereon 
they  stood  ;  this  being  principally  the 
case  whenever  the  deserted  city  occu^ 
pied  the  centre  of  a  plain  or  vaUey ; 
"  ir  the  Arabs,  from  habit,  as  weU  as 
an  instinct  of  self-preservation, 


always  chose  to  locate  themselves  on 
high  ground,  as  most  calciJilated  for 
defence.  The  old  sites  are  to  be  traced 
by  the  distinguishing  epithet  Im  Vte^'a, 
which  is  equivalent  to  the  Qreek.  ra 
vretXeuK^  the  Moorish  JBaleea,  the  Turk- 
ish Esky  Kallu  Our  Old  Sarum  is 
an  apt  illustration,  where  the  ancient 
city  was  absorbed  by  more  modem 
Salisbury,  and  used  up,  serving  in  its 
decay  to  elevate  its  rival. 

Abdu-r-rahman  began  the  present 
mosque,  July  2,  786,  copying  that  of 
Damascus ;  dying  June  10,  788,  it  was 
finished  by  ms  son  Hixem  in  793-4, 
and  was  called  Ceca,  Zeca^  the  house 
of  purification,  the  old  Epyptian  Sekos 
(fntcaSi  adytum).  In  sanctity  it  ranked 
as  the  third  of  mosques,  equal  to  the 
Alaksa  of  Jerusalem,  and  second  only 
to  the  Caaba  of  Mecca.  Conde,  i.  226, 
details  its  magnificence  and  ceremo- 
nials. A  pilgrimage  to  this  Ceca  was 
held  to  be  equivalent  in  the  Spanish 
Moslem  to  that  of  Mecca,  where  he 
could  not  go :  hence  andar  de  zeca  en 
meca  became  a  provwb  for  wanderings, 
and  is  used  by  Sancho  Fanza  when 
soured  by  blanket-tossings.  The  area 
is  about  394  feet  E.  to  W. ;  356  feet 
N.  to  S.  The  pillars  divide  it  into  19 
longitudinal  and  29  transverse  aisles; 
the  laterals  are  converted  into  chapels. 
Observe  the  singular  double  arches 
and  those  which  spring  over  pillars, 
which  are  one  of  the  earHest  deviations 
from  the  Basilica  form :  the  columns, 
as  at  Peestum,  have  no  plinths,  which 
would  be  inconvenient  to  pedestrians. 
Some  of  the  upper  arches  are  beauti- 
fully interlaced  like  ribands.  The  roof 
is  about  35  feet  high,  and  originally 
was  fiftt  before  the  modem  cupolas 
were  substituted  by  one  VaUe  Le- 
desma  in  1713.  The  real  lowness  is 
increased  by  the  width  of  the  interior, 
just  as  the  height  of  the  gothic  is 
increased  by  the  narrowness'  of  the 
aisles.  The  alerce  wood  of  which  it  is 
formed  remained  as  sound  as  when 
placed  there  nearly  eleven  centuries  ago; 
and,  when  taken  down,  the  planks 
were  much  sought  after  by  the  .guitar 
makers.      This    tree,    caUad   in    the 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  9. — OOKDOVA — ^THE  ALERCE. 


229 


Arabic  dialect  of  Granada,  Erza,  Src 
the  Sreg  of  the  Hebrew,  the  Laris  of 
Barbary  (the  root  of  Larix^  larch),  is 
the  Thuja,  the  Thus  articijilata,  or  arbor 
yitse,  which  in  the  time  of  the  Moors 
grew  plentifully  near  the  Ghtmiel,  as  it 
still  does  in  the  Berber  mountains, 
beyond  Tetuan,  from  whence  it  was 
brought  here  (Morales,  '  Ant.  de  Esp.' 
123).  Spain  was  always  celebrated  for 
the  durabihty  of  its  tunber  and  excel- 
lence of  its  workmanship.  The  Phoe- 
nicians were  the  great  carpenters  of 
antiquity,  and  selected  as  such  by 
Solomon  for  the  temple  at  Jerusalem 
(1  Kings  v.).  Pliny,  *  N.  H.»  (xvi.  40) 
speaks  of  the  antiquity  of  the  beams  of 
the  temple  of  Saguntum,  which  were 
durable  like  those  of  Hercules  at  Cadiz 
(Sil.  Ital.  iii.  18). 

Visit  the  Capilla  de  yUlaviciosa, 
once  the  Maksurah^  or  seat  of  the  kalif. 
Observe  the  Mih-raby  the  elaborately 
ornamented  cabinet  or  recess  in  which 
the  Alcoran  was  placed,  and  where  the 
kalif  performed  his  Chotbd,  or  public 
prayer,  at  the  window  looking  to  the 
Cfeca,  or  sanctum  sanctorum.  Observe 
the  quaint  lions,  like  those  in  the  Al- 
hambra,  and  the  Azidejos^  and  the 
arabesque  stucco,  once  painted  in  blue 
and  red,  and  gilded.  The  inscriptions 
are  in  Cuphic.  This  spot  has  been 
sadly  disfigured  by  Spanish  alterations. 
Visit  the  Calle  San  FedrOy  once  the 
Cella,  the  "Ceca,"  the  Holiest  of  Ho- 
lies, and  the  kiblaJiy  or  point  turned  to 
Mecca,  which  lies  to  the  E.  from  Spain, 
but  to  the  S.  from  Asia ;  observe  the 
glorious  Mosaic  exterior  unequalled  in 
Europe,  and  of  truly  Byzantine  rich- 
ness. The  Greeks  soon  made  Mends 
with  the  dynasty  of  Cordova  as  the 
natural  enemy  of  their  eastern  anta- 
gonist the  kalif  of  Damascus.  Accord- 
ing to  Edrisi,  this  splendid  Mosaic  was 
sent  to  Cordova  irom.  Constantinople 
by  the  Emperor  Komanus  11.  It  was 
their  '4'nfvffis,  which  the  Moors  pro- 
nounced Tsefysa,  Sofezaba.  There  is 
nothing  finer  in  this  kind  at  Palermo 
or  Monreale.  A  paltry  refa  rails  off 
the  tomb  of  the  constable  Conde  de 
Oropesa,  by  whom,  in  1368,  Cordova 


was  saved  from  Don  Pedro  and  the 
Moors.  Its  Spartan  simplicity  con- 
trasts with  the  surroimding  gorgeous- 
ness.  This  chapel  the  Spaniards  call 
Del  ZancarroUy  in  derision  of  the  foot- 
bone  of  Mahomet;  the  chapel  is  an 
octaeon  of  15  ft. ;  the  roof,  made  in 
the  mrm  of  a  shell,  is  wrought  out  of 
a  single  piece  of  marble.  The  pilgrim 
compassed  this  Ceca  seven  times,  as 
was  done  at  Mecca;  hence  the  foot- 
worn pavement. 

The  lateral  chapels  of  the  cathedral 
are  not  very  interesting.  Pablo  de 
Cespedes,  ob.  1608,  is  buried  in  front 
of  that  of  San  Pablo:  by  him  are  the 
paintings  of  St.  John,  St.  Andrew,  and 
a  neglected  "  Last  Supper,"  once  his 
masterpiece.  In  the  Calle  San  Nicolas 
is  a  Berruguete  Betablo,  and  paintings 
by  Cesar  Arbasia,  of  no  merit.  In  the 
Capilla  de  los  Reyes  was  buried  Alonso 
XI.,  one  of  the  most  chivalrous  of 
Spanish  kings — the  hero  of  Tarifa  and 
Algeciras :  his  ashes  have  been  moved 
to  Sn,  JlipoUto,  but  his  ungrateful 
country  has  not  even  raised  a  poor  slab 
to  his  memory.  In  the  Capilla  del 
Cardenal  is  the  rich  tomb  of  Cardinal 
Pedro  de  Salazar,  ob.  1706.  It  is 
churrigueresque ;  the  statues  are  by 
Jos^  de  Mora.  In  the  Panteon  below 
are  some  fine  marbles.  The  two  bad 
pictures  in  the  Sacristia,  and  ascribed 
to  Alonso  Cano,  are  only  copies.  The 
church  plate  once  was  splendid ;  the 
empty  cases  and  shelves  remain  from 
whence  Dupont  and  his  plunderers 
carried  off  many  waggon  loads.  A  few 
cinque-cento  crosses  and  chalices  were 
secreted,  and  thus  escaped,  like  the 
Custodia.  This  is  a  noble  Gothic  sU- 
ver-gilt  work  of  Henrique  de  Arphe, 
1517.  It  was  injured  in  1735  by  the 
injudicious  additions  of  one  Bemab^ 
Garcia  de  los  Eeyes.  The  marvel, 
however,  of  the  verger,  the  great  and 
absorbing  local  lion,  is  a  rude  cross 
scratched  on  a  pillar,  and,  according  to 
an  inscription,  by  a  Christian  captive 
with  his  nail  (?  a  nail) — Hizo  el  Can- 
tibo  con  la  Una. 

So  much  for  the  Mosque.  The  mo- 
dem addition  is  the  Coro;   this  w 


230 


ROUTE  9. — CORDOVA — ANTIQUITIES. 


Sect,  II. 


done  in  1523  bj  the  Bishop  Alonso 
Maniique.  The  city  corporation,  with  a 
taste  and  judgment  rare  in  such  bodies, 
protested  against  this  "improTement;" 
but  Charles  V.,  unacquainted  with  the 
locaUty,  upheld  the  prelate.  When  he 
passed  through  in  1526,  and  saw  the 
mischief,  he  thus  reproved  the  chap- 
ter ; — "  You  have  built  here  what  vou, 
or  any  one,  might  have  built  anywhere 
else ;  but  you  have  destroyed  what  was 
unique  in  the  world.  You  have  pulled 
down  what  was  complete,  and  you  have 
begun  what  you  cannot  finish."  And 
yet  this  man,  who  could  see  so  clearly 
the  motes  in  corporate  eyes,  was  the 
Yandal  who  disfigured  the  Alcazar  of 
SeviQe,  and  tore  down  portions  of  the 
Albambra,  to  commence  a  palace,  which 
even  now  is  unfinished ;  oh !  fit  ruler 
of  Spaniards,  whose  poor  performance 
ever  shames  their  mighty  promise ! 

The  Coro  was  commenced  by  Feman 
Buiz  in  1523,  and  completed  in  1593, 
The  cinque-cento  ornaments  and  roof 
are  picked  out  in  white  and  gold.  The 
Silleria,  by  Pedro  D.  Comejo,  is  chur- 
rigueresque ;  he  died  in  1758,  set.  80, 
and  is  buried  near  the  Capilla  Mayor. 
The  excellent  Eetahlo  wi^  designed,  in 
1614,  by  Alonso  Matias  ;  the  paiating 
is  by  Palomino,  and  is  no  better  than 
his  writings  ;  the  tomb,  Al  lado  de  la 
Bpistolay  is  that  of  the  beneficent 
Bishop  Diego  de  Mardones,  ob.  1624. 
Lope  de  Eueda  lies  buried  enire  los 
dos  coros.  For  other  details  consult 
the  Descri^ciarty  &c.,  of  Casus  Deza, 
D'*^  Cordoba,  1847. 

The  walk  round  the  lonely  walls  is 
picturesque.  They  are  Moorish,  and 
buUt  of  ta,pia;  with  their  gates  and 
towers  they  must  have  been  nearly 
similar  to  that  original  circumvaUation 
as  described  by  Csesar  (B.  C.  ii.  19). 
Observe  the  palms  overtopping  the  wall 
&om  a  convent  garden  near  the  Puterta 
de  Plasenda.      The  first   pakn  ever 

Elanted  in  Cordova  was  by  the  royal 
and  of  Abdu-r-rahman,  who  desired 
to  have  a  memorial  of  his  much-loved 
and  always  regretted  Damascus ;  his 
nlaintive  sonnet  is  still  extant.    The 
'^9gon  tower,  near  this  Fu0rta»  La 


Mala  Muertey  was  erected  in  1406  by 
Enrique  III. 

The  Moors  and  Spaniards  have  com« 
bined  to  destroy  all  the  Soman  anti- 
quities of  Cordova.  The  aqueduct  was 
taken  down  to  build  the  convent  of 
San  Jeronimo.  In  1730  an  amphi- 
theatre was  discovered  during  some 
accidental  diggings  near  San  Pablo,  and 
reinterred.  In  making  the  prisons  of 
the  Inqxusition  some  statues,  mosaics, 
and  inscriptions  were  found,  all  of 
which  were  covered  again  by  the  holy 
tribunal  as  being  Pagan.  Formerly 
there  were  35  convents,  besides  13 
parish  churches,  in  this  priest-ridden 
city ;  most  of  these  are  overloaded  with 
barbaric  churrigueresque  and  gilding. 
Ambrosio  Morales  was  buried  in  Ijos 
Martyresy  where  his  friend  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo,  Kojas  Sandoval, 
placed  a  tomb  and  wrote  an  epitaph ; 
the  ashes  were  moved  in  1844  to  the 
Colegiata  de  San  HipoUto,  The  Plaza^ 
with  its  wooden  galleries,  and  the  Calle 
de  la  Feria,  abound  with  Prout-like 
bits.  Observe  a  common-place  modem 
portico  of  6  Composite  pillars,  by  Ven- 
tura Bodriguez,  much  admired  here. 
Some  250  bad  pictures  were  got  to- 
gether in  the  Colegio  de  la  Asuncwn, 
The  sword  of  the  Rey  Chico  and  the 
Arabic  bell  of  Samson  maybe  inquired 
after.  Medieval  Cordova  totters  and 
every  day  disappears :  the  fine  old 
houses  of  the  ruined  nobihty  and  ab- 
sentees are  either  converted  to  vile 
purposes  or  pulled  down.  The  con- 
vents shared  the  same  fate.  The  tra- 
veller may  visit  La  Correderay  once 
the  plaza  for  tournaments  and  bull- 
fights. A  grand  new  arena  has  been 
raised  at  the  Paseo  Grand  Capitan. 
The  Moorish  house  I/a  Cuadra,  on 
the  Plazuela  San  NicolaSy  deserves 
notice.  Commerce  has  fled  with  arts 
and  arms.  The  peculiar  leather,  called 
from,  the  town  Cordwainy  Cordovan, 
was  once  celebrated,  but  the  Moors 
carried  their  art  and  industry  to  Mo- 
rocco: a  few  miserable  tanpits  near 
the  river  mark  the  difference  between 
the  present  and  former  proprietors. 
The  chief  manu&ctures  at  present  ar^ 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  9. — CX)RDOVA — ^THE  SACK. 


231 


olives  and  tubs  for  them.     Cordova 
was  always  most  servile  and  priest- 
ridden;   the  theatre  in  Ferd.  VII.' s 
time  was  closed,   because  some  nuns 
saw  the  devil  dancing  on  the  roof. 
Thus,  in  ancient  times,  the  brazen  tree 
of  Apollo  remonstrated  when  a  dancer 
came  near  it,  who  was  torn  to  pieces 
by  the  priests  (Athen.  xiii.  605).    Cor- 
dova is  now  dying  of  atrophy  :  it  has 
neither  arms  nor  men,  leather  nor  pru- 
nella J  the  first  blow  was  dealt  by  the  bar- 
barian Berbers,  the  last  by  the  French. 
A  morning's  excursion  may  be  made 
to  the  Val  ParaisOy  and  the  hermitages 
in  the  Sierra  Morena ;  the  path  ascends 
through  gardens.    At  Scm  Francisco 
de  la  Arrizafa  was  the  fairy  villa,  the 
Bizzifah  of  Abdu-r-rahman,  i.  e.  "  the 
pavement " — ^unde  Arricife ;  Conde  and 
the  accurate  Q-ayangos  have  detailed 
from  Arabic  authorities  the  historical 
but  almost  incredible  luxuries  of  this 
Aladdin  pa^ce.    This  museum  of  Ori- 
ental art,  like  the  viUa  of  Hadrian,  near 
Tivoli,  was  eittirely  destroyed,  Feb.  18, 
1009.   The  chief  leaders,  says  the  histo- 
rian Ibnu-r-rakik,  were  only  "  ten  men, 
who  were  either  sellers  of  charcoal  {car- 
honeros),  butchers,  or  dung-carriers" 
(Moh.  D.  ii.  228  and  488).    The  inha- 
bitants made  no  resistance ;  now,  even 
the  traces  of  these  palaces  cannot  be 
made  out — etiam  periere  rmnsB.     A 
scheme  has  recently  been  set  on  foot 
to  make  excavations  and  researches. 

The  hermitages  on  the  Sierra  above 
were  to  Andalucia  what  Monserrat  was 
to  Catalonia:  desecrated andsuppressed, 
they  now  are  hardly  worth  going  up  to ; 
the  excursion,  however,  affords  a  true 
notion  of  Andalucian  vegetation,  and 
the  views  from  above  are  extensive. 

The  hermitages  on  the  Sierra — a 
Thebais,  a  Laura,  a  Moimt  Athos — 
never  wanted  a  tenant  of  the  bravest 
and  best  bom;  in  the  Iberian  tem- 
perament, as  in  the  Onental-^inedia 
et  labor — ^violent  action  and  repose  are 
inherent.  The  half  monk,  half  soldier 
crusader,  after  a  youth  of  warfare  and 
bloodshed,  retired  with  grey  hairs  to 
cleanse  with  holy  water  his  blood- 
stained hands.    This  was  the  cold  fit, 


the  reaction  after  the  fever ;  some  ex- 
citement, too,  was  necessary,  and  as  the 
physical  forces  decayed,  a  moral  stimu- 
lant was  resorted  to  (see  Monserrat, 
p.  419.) 

Cordova  has  never  recovered  the 
fatal  June,  1808,  when  it  was  entered 
by  Ghen.  Bupont :  although  no  resist- 
ance was  made,  the  populace  was 
massacred,  and  the  city,  Mezquita, 
and  churches  were  plimdered  (Foy, 
iii.  231)  ;  every  one,  says  Maldo- 
nado  (i.  291),  from,  the  general  to  the 
fraction  of  a  drummer-boy,  giving 
themselves  up  to  pillage.  The  officers 
vied  with  the  rank  and  file  (Madoz,  vi. 
658).  The  "plunder  exceeded  ten 
millions  of  reals:"  8000  ounces,  or 
25,000^.,  were  found  in  Dupont's  lug- 
gage alone ;  see  Maldonado  (i.  335) ; 
who,  with  Toreno  (iv,),  gives  all  the 
scandalous  details. 

Q-eneral  ViUoutreys,  who  was  sent  to 
Paris  with  the  news,  although  travel- 
ling express,  halted  a  day  at  Bayonne, 
to  convert  his  illgotten  Spanish  gold 
into  lighter  French  billets  de  banque 
(Maldonado,  i.  333) :  compare  Biod. 
Sic.  (v.  305)  and  his  character  of  the 
"  excessive  love  for  buUion  "  of  the  old 
Gbul.  Well  may  Bory  exclaim  (La- 
borde,  iii.  201)  that  "  Le  souvenir  du 
Varus  Fran9ais  est  demeure  odieux 
aux  citoyens  de  Cordoue."  Even  Foy, 
in  spite  of  his  "  generous  patriotism," 
does  not  dare  to  hide  the  notorious 
truth :  he  tells  the  sad  details  (iii.  231), 
the  sack  of  the  mosque,  the  inex- 
cusable butchery  of  peaceful,  defence- 
less midtitudes.  In  the  words  of  even 
Thiers  it  was  "«»«  veritable  brigan- 
dage?^ Our  Napier  (i.  8),  notwith- 
standing, asserts  that,  "as  the  inha- 
bitants took  no  part  in  the  contest, 
and  received  the  French  without  any 
signs  of  aversion  "  (thus  far  he  is  cor- 
rect), "  the  town  was  protected  from 
pillage!"  Buonaparte,  however,  who 
knew  the  real  facts,  told  Savary  that 
he  could  only  account  for  the  "  un- 
usual cowardice  and  subsequent  defeat 
of  Dupont's  troops  at  Bailen,  fiwn  a 
fear  of  losing  their  plunder," — anc? 
was  right.    Those  who  rob,  as 


232 


ROUTE  9. — ^BAILEN — ^ALOOLEA — ^THE  DEFEAT,  Sect.  IT. 


Duke  told  so  often  the  Spaninrds  and  ' 
Belgians,    are    worth   nothing   when 
iaoed  against  the  enemy. 

There  is  a  bridle  cross-road  from 
Cordova  to  Granada,  22^  L.  (see  K. 
14),  and  a  new  road  is  contemplated  to 
Malaga,  vi4  Feman  Nunez,  Monte- 
mayor,  Montilla,  Aguilar,  Benamegi, 
and  Antiquera,  which,  if  finished,  will 
bring  Malaga  in  land  and  carriage 
communication  with  Madrid,  Seville, 
and  Cadiz.  Meantime  the  roads  of  this  ! 
rich  province  are  most  disgraoefid. 

Quitting  Cordova  at  2  L,  the  G-iia- 
dalquivir  is  Crossed  by  the  noble  bridge 
of  dark  marble,  built  by  Charles  III., 
at  Alcolea,  This  is  so  fine  that  the 
Spaniards  say  that  the  French,  when 
they  saw  it,  asked  if  it  were  not  made 
in  France.  Alcolea  is  a  common  name 
in  Spain,  being  the  Alcalahy  the  for- 
tress, the  outpost  of  the  Moors.  Here, 
June  7,  1808,  Pedro  Echavarri,  a  **  re- 
turned convict,  half  madman  and  entire 
coward"  (Schep.  i.  280),  who  had  pro- 
moted himself  to  the  rank  of  lieut.- 
general  (thus  Morillo  and  others  rose 
to  rank),  with  some  thousand  men, 
ought  to  have  stopped  Dupont,  but  at 
the  first  French  advance  this  general 
turned  and  fled,'never  halting  until  he 
reached  Ecija,  40  m.  off;  others  ran 
even  to  Seville,  and  were  the  first 
messengers  of  their  own  disgrace  (Foy 
iii.  229)  ;  then  had  Dupont  pushed  on, 
insteadof  thinking  of  plunder,  he  would 
have  won  Andalucia  without  firing  a 
shot.  Ferdinand  VII.,  however,  in 
1814,  instituted  an  order  of  honour 
for  the  prodi^ios  de  valor  exhibited  at 
Alcolea,  and  gave  Echavarri  the  only 
grand  cross.  All  this  is  omitted  by 
Madoz  (i.  456).  Again,  in  1836,  the 
dastardly  citizens  of  Cordova  yielded 
to  a  handful  of  men  under  Gk)mez, 

Near  Alcolea  is  the  great  stable  La 

Megalada^    for   the    onee    celebrated 

breeding-grounds  of  Cordovese  barbs  : 

the  establishment  has  never  recovered 

since  the  best  stallions  were  carried  off 

by  the  invaders.     At  Carpio,  with  its 

^,J|[oorish  tower,    built  in    1325,    the 

■^me  begins  to  change,  the  women 

g  green  serge  gayas^  and  hand- 


kerchiefs and  shawls  instead  of  man- 
tillas. Passing  through  fertile  tracts 
of  com  and  oUves  is  Andujar,  Andura, 
a  dull  unwholesome  town  on  the  G-ua- 
dalquivir  of  9000  souls,  with  an  old 
dilapidated  bridge :  the  dihgence  inn 
is  decent.  For  history  consult  Vida  de 
Santa  JEufratia  y  Oirigen  de  And/nyar, 
Antonio  Terrenes  de  Kobres,  4to.  Gran. 
1657.  Here  are  made  the  porous 
cooling  clay  drinking- vessels,  alcarra- 
zas,  Arabic^  Karaset,  which,  filled 
with  water  and  arranged  in  stands  or 
tallaSf  are  seized  upon  by  thirsty 
Spaniards  on  entering  every  venta. 
The  I*arroquia  8a/nta  Marina  was  a 
mosque  :  the  monies  in  the  neighbour- 
hood abound  in  game.  At  Andujar 
were  signed  two  memorable  docu- 
ments ;  first,  July  23,  1808,  the  con- 
vention of  Bailen,  and  secondly,  Aug. 
8,  1823,  the  decree  of  the  Duke  of 
Angouldme,  whereby  superiority  was 
assumed  by  the  French  over  all  Spanish 
authorities.  This  was  resented  by  the 
whole  Peninsula,  for  it  touched  the 
national  Sspanoligmo,  or  impatience 
under  foreign  dictation ;  it  converted 
every  Mend,  nay,  even  the  recently 
deHvered  Ferdinand  YII.,  into  a  foe 
to  the  knife. 

From  Andujar  there  is  a  carriage- 
able road  to  Jaen,  6  Xi.,  and  thence  to 
Grranada,  Bte.  16. 

Continuing  on  to  Madrid  the  road 
soon  ascends  the  hills,  over  a  broken 
country,  down  which  the  Bumblar 
boils.  The  memorable  battle  of  Bailen 
took  place  between  the  post-houses  La 
Casa  del  Bey  And  JBailen.  BAILEN! 
This  great  name,  which  first,  which 
last  is  repeated  by  Spaniards,  is  the 
one  victory,  the  hapworth  of  triumph 
which  covers  a  multitude  of  intolerable 
defeats,  such  as  in  no  history  can  be 
paralleled  except  by  that  of  themselves. 
BAILEN,  where  "  Nosotros  crushed 
the  veterans  of  Austerlitz  and  Ma- 
rengo," [Dupont's  troops  being,  in 
fact,  raw  conscripts  and  "  des  soldats 
novices"  Foy,  iv.  109,]  "  and  thereby 
saved,  not  Spain  alone,  but  Europe !" 
As  the  road  to  Madrid  offers  little  to 
look  at  or  write  about,  the  real  truth 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  9. — BAILEN — ^THE  BATTLE. 


283 


may  at  onoe  amuse  the  English  and 
instruct  the  Spanish  reader  while  jour- 
neying over  dreary  and  dull  La  Mancha. 

When  Cuesta  had,  by  being  beaten 
at  Bioseco,  opened  Madrid  to  the 
French,  Buonaparte  and  Murat  con- 
sidered the  conquest  of  Andalucia 
to  be  merely  a  promenade  militaire. 
Dupont  accordingly  was  sent  from 
Toledo,  May  24,  1808,  with  10,000 
men,  and  boasted  that  on  the  21  st 
of  June  he  should  be  at  Cadiz :  his 
forces  were  next  increased  by  12,950 
more  men  under  Vedel  j  but  Dupont 
mismanaged  the  whole  campaign  :  he 
arrived,  without  obstacles,  at  Andujar, 
and  then  neither  pushed  on  to  Cadiz, 
nor  fell  back  on  Madrid  while  the 
mountains  were  open.  Meanwhile  Cas- 
tanos  was  enabled  to  move  his  hitouos 
from  Algeciras,  by  the  help  of  a  loan 
advanced  by  the  merchants  of  G-ibraltar, 
and  marched  towards  Andujar  with 
25,000  men :  his  army,  both  in  men  and 
generals,  was  little  more  than  nomin- 
ally Spanish,  although  Madoz,  iu.  303, 
says  they  were  casi  todos  Andaluces  ! 
The  1st  division  was  Swiss,  and  com- 
manded by  Beding,  a  Swiss ;  the  2nd 
was  commanded  by  De  Coupigny,  a 
Frenchman  ;  the  3rd  by  Jones,  an 
Irishman,  and  the  best  troops  were 
Walloons.  The  4th  division,  which 
really  consisted  of  Spaniards,  who  now 
claim  all  the  glory,  never  fired  a  shot, 
and  Castanos,  their  chief,  only  arrived 
after  the  battle  was  gained ;  previously 
Dupont  had  so  mismanoeuvred  and 
scattered  his  forces,  that  Castanos,  by 
marching  Keding  to  the  r.,  got  between 
him  and  Vedel.  The  positions  were 
singular,  each  being  placed  in  these 
hilly  defiles  between  two  fires :  Dupont 
between  Castanos  and  Beding,  Beding 
between  Dupont  and  Vedel. 

July  18,  Dupont  quitted  Andujar 
like  a  thief  in  the  night.  So  careless 
was  the  Spanish  look-out,  that  the 
enemy  had  marched  five  hours  before 
Castanos  even  knew  that  he  was  gone. 
Dupont  was  met  at  daybreak  of  the 
19th  by  Beding  and  Coupigny,  drawn 
up  in  a  strong  hill  position.  The 
battle  was  of  short  duration,  for  the 


Fi'ench  had  become  demoralized  by 
indulgence  in  pillage  ;  more  than  1500 
men  were  actually  employed  in  guard- 
ing the  "  impedimenta,"  or  waggons  of 
plunder  j  thus,  as  at  Victoria,  the 
crime  entailed  its  own  punishment. 
But  according  to  Justin  (xxxii.  2)  such 
defeat  is  no  unusual  consequence  of 
G^allic  plunder,  and  especially  when 
sacrilegious;  hence  the  classical  prO" 
verb  Aurum  Tolosanvm^  the  curse- 
entailing  pillage  of  Delphos,  which 
haunted  the  French  of  Toulouse,  and 
the  comrades  of  Brennus.  Such  was 
the  just  retribution  of  Nemesis,  Ultor 
SaorcB  peounuB.  And  some  high  offi- 
cers, says  Foy  (iv.  100),  "  anxious  to 
secure  their  butin  infame,  were  ready 
to  listen  to  dishonour;"  the  uneven 
country  was  also  in  fiivour  of  Beding, 
as  it  rendered  all  scientific  manoeuvring 
impossible;  in  short  it  was  a  Bon- 
cesvalles. 

The  report  of  the  firing  during  the 
contest  brought  up  La  Pena  with  the 
4th  Spanish  brigade,  and  Vedel  with 
his  division ;  thus  Beding  was  attacked 
in  front  and  rear  by  Dupont  and  Vedel, 
while  Dupont  was  exposed  in  the  same 
manner  to  Beding  and  La  Fefia ;  but 
the  Spaniards  arrived  first,  for  Vedel 
had  halted  some  hours  to  permit  his 
troops  to  convert  into  soup  a  flock  of 
goats  which  they  had  caught:  thus 
nearly  20,000  Frenchmen  were  sold 
for  a  mess  of  pottage :  "  La  destin^ 
des  nations  depend  de  la  mani^re  dont 
elles  se  nourrissent,"  says  Brillat  Sa- 
varin.  This  ought  to  be  a  warning  to 
so  truly  great  a  gastronomic  nation, 
how  they  meddle  with  the  cuisine  of 
the  rude  Iberians,  who  were  sad  goat- 
eaters,  according  to  Strabo  (iii.  155, 

All  parties  were  anxious  to  come  to 
some  terms,  particularly  the  chiefs,  Du- 
pont and  Castanos;  indeed  the  latter, 
on  his  arrival,  after  all  the  fighting 
was  over,  would  have  readily  granted  a 
convention  of  Cintra  had  he  not  been 
prevented  by  Count  Tilli,  a  sort  of 
commissioner  of  the  Seville  junta. 

Every  moment's  delay  rendered  the 
position  of  the  French  more  desperate 


234 


ROUTE  9. — ^BAILEK — CASTANOS. 


Sect  II. 


The  burning  Andalucian  sim,  and  the 
want  of  water,  were  more  formidable 
than  the  Spaniards.    Bead  Livj  (xxxiv. 
47)  to  see  a  former  example  of  these 
effects  on  a  French  army.     When  the 
troops  ventured  down  to  the  stream 
below, they  were  shot  by  hornet  swarms 
of  armed  peasants.     Eventually,  on 
the  23rd,  17,635  Frenchmen  laid  down 
their  arms.    The  panic  spread  far  and 
wide:  whole  detachments  of  French 
along    the    road    to    Madrid    volun- 
teered their  own  submission.     Joseph 
Buonaparte    fled    £rom    Madrid    in- 
stantly,  having  first   pillaged  every- 
thing J    but   the  invaders  ran    away 
from  the  coming  shadows  of  only  their 
own  fears,  for  Castanos,  so  far  from 
advancing  on  the  foe,  more  amazed  at 
his  victory,  than  even  the  French  at 
their  defeat,  actually  marched  back  to 
Seville  to  dedicate  flags  to  St.  Ferdi- 
nand :  nor  did  he  reach  Madrid  until 
Aug.  23,  when  he  proceeded  to  kneel 
before  the  Atocha  image  of  the  Virgin, 
and  thank  her   for  her   interference 
(Sohep.  i.  458).    Meanwhile  Buona- 
parte was  silently  preparing  his  great 
revenge  unmolested  by  the  Spaniards, 
who  quietly  reposed  under  their  laurels, 
not  taking  the  smallest  steps  even  to 
dislodge  the  French  runaways  from  the 
line  of  the  Ebro ;  they  thought  the  war 
concluded  by  one  blow ;  and  even  the 
sober    English  caught  the  infection, 
and  imagined  Bailen  to  be  a  tragedv 
to  be  repeated  whenever  the  French 
appeared,  until  further   notice.    The 
rewards  given  to  Castanos,  this  con- 
queror by  deputy,  were  as  slow  as  his 
military  movements ;  he  was  not  made 
Duque  de  Bailen  until  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  centiuy    afterwards,    and    then 
simply  and  solely  because  Christina 
was  anxious  to  create  a  liberal  party 
•for  her  own  ends.    To  his  praise  be  it 
said  that  he  was  free  from  mean  jea- 
lousies, and  cheerfully  served  under 
the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  of  all  his 
countrymen  was  b^t  liked  by  their 
allies.    He  was  fully  aware  of  his  own 
utter  military  incapacity,  and  being  a 
true  JPillo  Andaluz,  cut  his  joke  on 
himself  and  on  everything  else.    Thus, 


when  Dupont  on  delivering  his  sword, 
made  a  grandiloquent  speech  in  the 
Honneur  et  Patrie  style :  "  this  is  the 
first  time  mon  ^p^e  has  witnessed  de- 
feat." "Ma  foi,"  replied  Castanos, 
"  what  is  odder  still,  this  is  the  first 
time  mine  has  witnessed  a  victory." 

Castaflos,  who  trimmed  and  wea« 
thered  all  the  storms  of  Spanish  poli- 
tics, died  liked  by  all  Sept.  2drd,  1852, 
aged  95.  On  the  14th  of  that  month, 
also  full  of  years  and  honours,  our  great 
Duke  had  led  the  way,  as  he  was  wont. 
They  indeed  justly  represent  the  shares 
of  the  real  work  done  in  the  war  of  in- 
dependence by  England  and  Spain. 

Castanos  was  a  gentleman,  and  to 
his  honour  opposed  the  Punic  manner 
in  which  the  convention  of  Bailen  was 
broken  on  some  quibble  about  the 
impossibility  of  sending  the  French 
home  in  ** Spanish  ships."  Thus  retalia- 
tion and  poetical  justice  were  satisfied 
rather  than  good  faith.  The  French, 
who  had  sowed  in  the  storm,  nowreaped 
in  the  whirlwind.  "They  were  treated,*' 
says  Southey  (ch.  viii.),  "  as  criminals 
rather  than  soldiers ;  as  men  who  had 
laid  down  their  arms,  but  could  not  lay 
down  their  crimes."  "On  leur  re- 
clamait  avec  menaces  et  injures  lea 
vases  sacr^s  des  ^lises,"  (Foy,  iv, 
107).  Many  were  massacred  in  cold 
blood  on  the  road,  others  were  starved 
in  the  Cadiz  hulks,  the  rest  were  ex- 
posed on  the  desolate  island  of  Cabrera, 
without  food  or  clothing,  to  feed  on 
each  other  like  howling  wild  beasts,  in 
spite  of  the  indignant  remonstrances  of 
English  officers,  who  are  now  charged 
by  some  French!  with  the  guilt  of 
the  very  crimes,  which  they  did  every 
thing  in  their  power  to  prevent. 

Buonaparte  concealed  Bailen  and  the 
truth  from  his  slaves  :  "  Les  Fran9ais,** 
says  Foy,  "  n'en  eurent  m^me  pae  con- 
naissance."  When  the  retreat  from 
Madrid  could  no  longer  be  kept  back, 
he  only  hinted  in  the  *  Moniteur,'  Sept. 
6,  that  the  heat  of  the  weather  and  tlie 
superiority  of  the  Ebro  water  were 
the  causes ;  just  as  at  Trafalgar  he 
ascribed  the  accidental  disaster  to 
the  elements.    Barring  this  femfaron- 


Andaluda, 


ROUTE  9. — ^BAILEN. 


235 


nade,  his  militaiy  genius  fully  compre- 
hended how  Utile  Spanish  strategies 
had  caused  the  victory ;  and,  writing 
immediately  after  the  disaster,  he  re- 
marked, "  Les  Espagnols  ne  sont  pas 
h  craindre,  toutes  les  forces  Espagnoles 
ne  sont  pas  capables  de  culbut^  25,000 
Fran^aiB  dans  une  position  raison- 
nable ;"  and  subsequent  events  showed 
how  true  was  this  opinion.  He  never 
again  lost  any  great  battle  with  the 
Spaniards,  and  in  a  few  months  routed 
these  very  heroes  of  Bailen,  who  dis- 
played everywhere  the  most  incredible 
cowardice  and  incapacity.  Even  Sche- 
peler  observes,  "Le  son  de  ce  mot 
Bailen  produisitimvertigede  triomphe, 
et  livra  d  Buana/parte  mainte  armee 
Sspa^nole"  This  victory  of  an  acci- 
dent really  proved  to  Spaniards  a  dis- 
aster, for  they  now  took  the  exception 
for  the  rule,  and  imagined  that  their 
raw  levies,  wanting  in  evCTything,  and 
led  by  incapable  officers,  coidd  beat 
the  h^hly  organised  veterans  of  France 
led  by  good  commanders  ;  in  vain  the 
Duke  urged  them  to  keep  to  their  hiUs, 
and  wage  a  Fabian  defensive  warfiu«, 
which  history,  the  nature  of  the  broken 
country,  and  the  adn^rable  guerilla 
qualities  of  the  Spanish  people  pointed 
out.  "  I  am  afiratid,'*  said  the  Duke, 
"  that  the  wtmost  we  can  hope  for  is, 
to  teach  them  how  to  avoid  being  heat. 
li  we  can  e£Eect  that  object,  I  hope  we 
might  do  the  rest"  (Disp.  Aug.  18, 
1812).  But  their  Eepanolismo  took 
huff;  they  were  not  to  be  taught ; 
and  these  "  children  in  the  art  of  war" 
were  naughty  enough  to  quarrel  with 
their  kind  nurse  and  well-meaning 
instructor.  Bailen  always  interfered ; 
they  were  always  fighting  it  over  again, 
planning  how  to  catch  all  the  French 
'  at  once  in  one  trap.  This  idea  led  them 
to  quit  the  mountains  and  descend  into 
the  ffttalplains,  theretoextendtheirUnes, 
in  order  to  surround  the  enemy  and 
catch  him  in  a  trap,  when  these  Tartars, 
by  one  cha/rge  of  cavalry ^  generally  put 
them  to  rout. 

Meanwhile  the  effect  of  Bailen  was 
electrical;  for  the  truth  could  not  be 
quite  stifled,  even  in  France.    Europe 


aroused  from  her  moral  subjection  \ 
Spain  retook  her  place  among  nations  j 
and  England,  thinking  her  now  worthy 
of  her  friendship,  rushed  to  her  final 
deUverance. 

After  nearly  forty  years,  a  monument 
was  talked  about  being  erected  on  thifl 
glorious  site ;  and  even  this,  a  thing  of 
accident,  was  not  got  up  to  honour 
Castanos  or  his  troops,  but  to  express 
by  a  side  wind  the  national  disgust  at 
the  marriage  of  the  Spanish  In&nta 
with  the  French  Due  de  Montpensier. 

A  more  curious  monum^it  will  be  the 
official  Spanish  book  that  is  to  be 
written  on  the  battle,  in  order  to  confute 
the  statements  in  Thiers'  **  historical 
romance;"  just  as  Marliani  was  em- 
ployed as  the  mouthpiece  of  Castilian 
indignation,  to  rebut  the  same  lively 
gentleman's  version  of  Trafalgar.  Mean- 
time the  name  Dupona  was  long  given 
to  "a  croptailed  rip,"  in  coarse  and 
horse  parhmce  in  central  Spain. 

The  town  of  Bailen  or  BayUn,  Be- 
tula,  is  most  wretched,  and  is  no  bad 
sample  of  those  of  the  dreary  localities 
which  we  are  approaching ;  pop.  under 
3000 :  the  diligence  Parador  de  la  Paz 
is  a  poor  inn.  There  is  a  ruined  castle 
here,  with  a  machicolated  tower  belong- 
ing to  the  Benavente  family,  now  to 
the  Osuna;  observe  the  palm-tree. 
Those  who  are  going  N.  may  now  bid 
adieu  to  the  vegetation  of  the  tierra 
caliente,  while  those  who  are  coming 
S.  will  welcome  this  harbinger  of  the 
land  of  promise.  Now  commences  the 
pano  pardo,  the  brown  cloth,  and  the 
alpargata^  or  the  hempen  sandal  of  the 
poverty-stricken  Manchegos. 

Leaving  Bailen  the  road  enters  the 
Sierra  barrier,  which  rises  between  the 
central  table-lands  and  the  maritime 
strips ;  and  striking  is  the  change  of 
vegetation,  the  best  test  of  climate, 
when  this  frontier  is  passed.  The  hilly 
road  is  admirably  planned,  having  been 
executed  by  Charles  Le  Maur,  a  French 
engineer  in  the  service  of  Charles  III. 
These  localities  at  the  gorge  of  the 
mountains  have  naturally  been  the 
theatre  of  battle :  in  these  parts  Pub- 
lius  Scipio  defeated  Asdrubal,  and  hr^ 


236 


ROUTE  9. — LAS  NAVAS  DE  TOLOSA. 


Sect.  II. 


in  modem  times  the  Spaniards  have 
twice  worsted  their  most  inveterate 
foes.  About  2  L.  to  the  rt.  of  Carolhia 
are  IJas  Navas  de  Tolosa.  Navas  is  a 
Sasque  word,  and  like  the  Ibman 
term  Nav^  enters  into  names  connected 
with  "  plains," — Navia,  Navarra.  This 
is  the  scene  of  a  former  Sailen,  called 
de  las  Navas  de  Tolosa  by  the  Spaniai'ds, 
and  by  Moorish  annalists  that  of 
Al-'akab.  Here,  Monday  July  16, 
1212,  Alonso  VIII.  defeated  Moham- 
med Ibn  Abdallah,  sumamed  Annassir 
Ledin- Allah — the  Defender  of  the  Re- 
ligion of  God — King  of  Morocco. 
The  conquest  of  Toledo  by  the  Chris- 
tians had  led  to  a  fresh  invasion  of 
Spain  from  Barbary  :  the  news  spread 
dismay  over  Christendom,  and  Inno- 
cent III.  proclaimed  a  general  crusade. 
It  is  said  that  no  less  than  110,000 
foreign  crusaders  came  to  assist  the 
Spaniards  from  all  parts  of  Europe, 
although  the  Spaniards  claim  all  the 
glory  for  themselves,  as  in  the  Penin- 
sular war ;  and,  as  scarcelv  any  n^en- 
tion  is  made  of  the  Duke  and  the 
EngUsh,  who  did  that  deed,  and  all  the 
glory  taken  to  Nosotros,  and  this  while 
thousands  are  alive  who  know  the  real 
truth,  some  doubts  may  be  raised  as 
to  this  former  statement  and  exclusive 
claim,  but  no  doubt  that  foreign  auxili- 
aries bore  at  least  their  share  in  the  bur- 
den of  the  fight.  The  allies  left  Toledo 
June  21,  to  meet  the  invaders.  They 
found  the  passes  guarded  by  the  Moors, 
and  despaired,  when  a  shepherd,  since 
ascertained  to  have  been  San  Isidro 
himself  (see  Madrid),  appeared  miracu- 
lously and  pointed  out  a  by-path :  so 
at  Marathon,  where  a  stranger,  like 
San  Isidro,  in  a  rustic  dress,  assisted 
the  Greeks,  and  then  disappeared,  the 
oracles  afterwards  declared  him  to  be 
Hercules  (Paus.  i.  32).  The  Christians 
opened  the  attack;  the  Andalucian 
Moors,  true  to  their  old  unwarlike  cha- 
racter, were  the  first  to  turn  and  run 
(Conde,  ii.  423).  The  remainder  fol- 
lowed their  example ;  200,000  infidels 
were  killed,  while  scarcely  25  Christians 
fell ;  so  writes  the  pious  and  fighting 
archbishop  Bodrigo,  who  was  present : 


by  birth  a  Frenchman,  and  fired  with 
all  the  military  spirit  of  his  gallant  na- 
tion, this  eye-witness  was  a  better  hand 
probably  at  guess-work  than  arithmetic. 
He  vouches  also  for  the  fact  that  no 
wood  was  burnt  in  the  victor  camp, 
except  the  spears,  arrows,  and  (long) 
bows  of  the  Moors.  See,  abo,  p.  97, 
Annates  Sec.  de  Jaen.  Jurado.  Those 
who  have  read  any  Spanish  general's 
or  junta's  accounts  of  their  victories  ! 
during  the  Peninsular  and  recent  wars, 
will  see  how  little  changed  are  these 
unchangeable  romancers.  The  victory 
could  not  be  folio  wed  up;  the  Spaniards, 
as  usual,  in  want  of  everything,  were 
unable  to  move;  they  therefore  re- 
turned to  Toledo,  to  thank  San  Hde- 
fonso,  instead  of  marching  on  Seville; 
just  as  Castanos  returned  aftor  Bailen 
to  Seville,  to  thank  St.  Ferdinand,  in- 
step of  marching  on  Toledo. 

Carolina.  Diligence  Parador  good. 
This  is  the  chief  place  of  the  Nuevas 
Pohladones,  or  the  new  towns  of  this 
district:  pop.  2800:  it  is  tidy  and 
clean,  laid  out  by  hne  and  rule,  and 
in  academical  rectangular  and  common- 
place; perfectly  uninteresting  and  un- 
Spanish,  it  is  much  admired  by  the 
natives,  because  so  European  and  civi- 
lized. The  fair  skins  of  the  people, 
and  the  roads  planted  with  tre^,  are 
more  German  than  Iberian.  These  wild 
hills  were  formerly  left  to  the  robber 
and  the  wolf,  without  roads  or  villages. 
Spain,  after  colonizing  the  new  world 
and  expelling  her  rich  Jews  and  indus- 
trious Moors,  was  compelled  to  re- 
people  the  Despoblados  with  foreign 
settlers.  In  1767,  Don  Pablo  Ola- 
vide,  a  Peruvian  by  birth,  planned  the 
immigration  of  Germans  and  Swiss  to 
what  they  were  told  was  a  "  mountain 
paradise,"  by  a  bribe  of  pecimiary  as- 
sistance and  promise  of  immunities;  all 
these  pledges  were  broken,  and  most  of 
the  poor  foreigners  died  broken-hearted 
of  the  maladie  du  pays,  execrating 
Punic  Spain,  and  remembering  their 
sweet  Aj*gos.  Olavide  himself,  this 
modem  Cadmus  or  Deucalion,  who  had 
infused  life  into  the  silent  mountains, 
and  one  of  the  few  enlightened  Assis- 


Aiidalucia, 


ROUTE  9. — LA  MANCHA. 


237 


tontes  Seville  ever  had,  fell  in  his  turn 
a  victim  to  bigotry  and  ingratitude. 
One  stipulation  had  been  the  non- 
admission  of  monkish  drones  into  these 
new  hives:  k  capuchin,  named  Ro- 
muald,  thereupon  denounced  him  to 
the  Inquisition ;  he  was  arrested  in 
1776,  his  property  confiscated,  and  he 
himself  confined  in  a  convent  in  La 
Mancha,  subject  to  such  a  penance  as 
the  monks  should  inflict.  He  escaped 
into  France,  shaking  Spanish  dust  off 
his  feet  for  ever. 

The  road  made  by  Charles  III. 
winds  through  a  mountain  gorge,  with 
toppling  crags  above  and  around,  some 
of  which  are  called  here  los  organos, 
from  representing  the  pipes  of  a  gigan- 
tic organ,  and  soon  passes  by  Las  Cor- 
rederas  and  the  magnificent  narrow 
gorge  Despena-perros — "  throw  over 
dogs,"  meaning  the  "  infidel  houndes*" 
This  is  the  natural  gateway  to  dreary 
Jja  Mancha,  as  Pancorbo  is  to  Castile. 
Adieu  now  gay  Andalucia  and  the  tro- 
pical v^etation.  Those  who  advance 
N.  exchange  an  Eden  for  a  desert, 
while  those  who  turn  their  backs  on 
the  capital,  at  every  step  advance  into 
a  more  genial  climate  and  a  kindlier 
soil.  In  the  war  of  independence  the 
Seville  Junta  only  talked  of  fortifying 
this  natural  Thermopyl®,  this  Bolan 
pass  J  nothing  was  over  done  except  on 
paper ;  and  after  the  rout  of  Ocana  the 
runaways  dared  not  even  stand  behind 
the  rocks,  where  100  old  Q-reeks  would 
have  checked  the  advance  and  saved 
Andalucia.  Jan.  20, 1810,  the  French, 
under  DessolleSj  forced  the  pass  in  spite 
of  the  heroes  of  Bailen  and  their  ten 
thousand  men,  who  dispersed  "every 
man  to  his  own  home ;"  and  this  on  the 
plains  of  Tolosa !  yet  the  country  is  a 
natural  fortress,  and  well  did  the  Duke 
know  its  value.  It  might  have  been 
made  the  Torres  Vedras  of  Andalucia. 
His  plan,  when  he  contemplated  de- 
fending Andalucia,  which  failed  from 
the  Junta's  suspicions  regarding  Cadiz, 
was  to  make  Carolina  his  head-quarters. 
"  I  think,"  said  he,  "  while  I  am  there 
the  French  will  not  venture  to  pass  the 
Sierra."    Now,  when  he  wa«  not  there, 


in  two  days,  they  forced  50  m.  of  almost 
impregnable  passes. 

The  province  of  La  Mancha,  into 
which  we  now  enter,  contains  about 
7500  square  m.,  with  a  scanty  popula- 
tion of  250,000.  It  is  chiefly  table- 
land, elevated  at  a  mean  height  of  2000 
feet  above  the  sea-level.  Although  ap- 
parently a  plain,  it  is  very  undulating  j 
in  the  dips,  occasionally,  a  streamlet 
creates  a  partial  verdure  and  fertility. 
but  water  is  the  great  want ;  indeed, 
some  see  the  origin  of  the  name  Mancha 
in  the  Arab  Manxa — dry  land.  De- 
nuded of  trees,  it  is  exposed  to  the 
cutting  wintry  blasts,  and  scorched  by 
the  calcining  summer  heat :  tawny  and 
arid  is  the  earth,  while  the  dust,  im- 
pregnated with  saltpetre,  and  the  fierce 
glare  of  the  sun  blmd  the  eye,  wearied 
with  prospects  of  imiform  misery  and  a 
grievous  want  of  anything  worth  notice, 
either  in  man  or  his  works,  or  in  the 
nature  with  which  he  is  surrounded  j 
the  traveller  is  sickened  with  the  wide 
expanse  of  monotonous  steppes,  and 
over  which  nought  but  the  genius  of  a 
Cervantes  could  have  thrown  any 
charm,  gilding,  as  it  were,  its  unen- 
durable misery  and  dulness. 

The  towns  are  few,  poverty-stricken, 
and  without  a  particle  of  comfort  or 
interest:  the  mud-built  villages,  the 
abodes,  of  under-fed,  ill-clothed  la- 
bourers :  besides  the  want  of  water, 
fuel  is  so  scarce  that  dry  dimg  is  sub- 
stituted, as  in  the  East.  These  ham- 
lets, wretched  enough  before,  were  so 
sacked  by  the  Duponts  and  Soults, 
that  they  never  have  recovered.  The 
plains  produce  much  com,  safiroUj  and 
in  some  places  rich  wines :  the  mules  are 
celebrated.  The  Mamchego  is  honest, 
patient,  and  hard-working  when  there 
is  any  one  to  hire  him ;  his  affections 
are  more  developed  than  his  reason. 
Temperate,  brave,  and  moral,  he  is 
attached  and  confiding  when  kindly 
used  and  honestly  dealt  with ;  reserved 
and  stem  when  he  suspects  ill-treat- 
ment and  injustice.  He  is  plainly 
clad  in  pano  pardo,  with  a  montera 
— the  Iberian  f/ur^a — on  his  head,  a 
most  inconvenient  cap,  which  neithe** 


238 


ROUTE  9. — CERVANTES, 


Sect.  II. 


defends  the  head  from  the  sun,  the 
rain,  or  cold ;  yet,  in  spite  of  all  these 
untoward  circumstances  in  man  and 
his  coimtry,  this  is  the  province  of  the 
song  and  dance,  the  Seauidillatxid  Man- 
chega.  Honest,  homely  Sancho  Fanza  is 
a  reed  Manchegan  peasant.  He  is  the  true 
Juan  JEspanoly  the  simple  gaffer  goosy, 
the  John  Bull  of  Spain.  Dos  Juanes  con 
un  PedrOy  hacen  un  asnon  entero. 

After  passing  the  gorge  of  Despenor 
perros,  to  the  rt.  is  the  Venta  de  Car- 
denas ;  here  we  think  of  Don  Quixote, 
Gardenio,  and  Dorothea,  for  these  fic- 
tions rank  as  reahti^.  In  the  imme- 
diate Sierra  to  the  1.  is  the  scene  of 
the  knight's  penance.  Near  Torre 
Nueva  he  Uberated  the  galleyslayes. 
As  we  are  now  m  Don  Quixote's  coun- 
try, and  as  it  has  heen  our  £site  to  pass 
no  less  than  six  times  over  this  dreary 
road  of  bore,  we  entreat  the  traveller 
to  arm  himself  beforehand  with  a  Don 
Quixote:  some  intellectual  provender 
is  no  less  needful  for  the  mind  than 
**  vivers  and  provend  "  are  for  the  body 
in  the  hungry  barrenness  of  La  Mancha, 
so  a  few  remarks  on  Cervantes  may  not 
be  out  of  place  here. 

According  to  M.  Montesquieu,  the 
sayer  of  smart  things,  "  this,  the  one 
and  only  good  book  of  Spain,  is  em- 
ployed in  exposing  the  ridicule  of  all 
others."  Certainly,  for  Don  Quixote's 
sake,  a  vast  tribe  of  Spanish  sins  in 
print  may  be  spared,  which,  to  no  loss 
of  mankmd,  might  be  condemned  to 
the  fire  of  the  Don's  niece  or  the  fiir- 
nace  of  the  inquisition  of  Ximenez; 
but  we  must  not  suppose  that  it  was 
written  to  put  down  knight*errantry ; 
that  exponent  of  a  peculiar  age  had 
passed  with  its  age,  and  had  Don 
Quixote  been  a  mere  satire  on  it,  both 
the  conqueror  and  conquered  would 
long  ago  have  been  buried  in  the  same 
grave  and  forgotten.  Those  who  say 
that  Cervantes  "laughed  Spain's  chi* 
vahy  away,"  forget  that  it  had  expired 
at  least  a  century  before  his  birth.  It 
is  impossible  not  to  see  that  it  is  "  Cer* 
vantes  loquitur  "  all  through,  and  that 
the  tale  is  made  the  vehicle  for  his 
own  chivalrous  temperament,  and  for 


his  philosophical  comment  on  human 
life,  his  criticisms  on  manners,  institu-> 
tions,  and  Uterature.  The  actors  in  the 
narrative — the  "  Cttra,^*  for  instance, 
the  Canon,  and  Don  Quixote  himself 
— are  the  mouthpiece  of  the  author, 
as  the  "  Cautivo  "  is  the  hero  of  some 
of  his  real  adventures  when  captive  in 
Algiers.  Don  Quixote  is  a  delmeation 
of  the  old  high-bred  CastUian,  a  hater 
of  injustice  and  lover  of  virtue ;  he  ia 
indeed  a  monomaniac,  but  that  one 
point  is  not  one  which  is  unbecoming 
to  an  hidalgo ;  although  the  sweet  bells 
of  his  intellect  are  jangled  and  out  of 
tune,  he  is  always  the  gentleman,  al- 
ways disinterested,  generous,  elevated, 
and  beneficent;  he  gradually  recovers 
his  senses  in  the  second  part,  when  our 
feelings  of  pity  and  sympathy,  always 
strong  in  his  favour,  increase.  Cer- 
vantes probably  did  not  intend  or  anti- 
cipate the  spirit  of  ridicule  which  he 
excited  against  this  sentiment  of  "  the 
chivalrous  ;"  accordingly  the  tone  and 
character  of  his  hero  rise  in  the  second 
part  J  he  is  exposed  to  somewhat  fewer 
rude  and  less  personal  mishaps.  Un- 
doubtedly Cervantes  contributed  to  in- 
jure the  heroical  and  energetic  character 
of  the  old  Castilian,  for  one  cannot 
laugh  at  books  of  chivalry  without  in 
some  wise  affecting  the  principle ;  but 
his  real  and  avowed  object  was  to  put 
an  end  to  the  absurd  I'omances  wMch 
it  was  then  all  the  fashion  to  read. 

The  second  part  was  produced  fi^m 
an  author  imder  the  name  of  Alonzo 
Fernandez  de  AveUanada  having  put 
forth  a  spurious  continuation,  pub- 
lished at  Tarragona,  1614.  This  called 
up  the  hitherto  careless  Cervantes,  who 
has  transfixed  the  plagiarist  by  the  ban- 
derillas  of  his  wit.  He  then  became  so 
chary  of  his  hero  that  he  killed  him,  in 
order,  as  Addison  said  of  Sir  Roger  de 
Coverley,  that  no  one  else  might  mur- 
der him;  then,  as  he  says  with  honest 
pride,  "  did  Cid  Hamet  BenEngeli  lay 
down  his  pen,  and  place  it  up  so  high 
that  none  since  have  ever  been  able  to 
take  it  down."  This  "  canting  "  name 
of  Ben  Engel,  is  thought  by  Conde  to 
shadow  out  in  Arabic  the  Spanish  word 


Andcdtuda. 


EOUTE  9. — ^LA  MANCHA — ^DON  QUIXOTE. 


239 


"  Cervantes"  the  " son  of  the  stag," 
Ciervo ;  the  final  ez  being  in  Basque  no- 
menclature equivalent  to  our  son,  Juan- 
Juones,  John- Johnson.  The  prefix,  Ben- 
Ibn  meaning  "  son  "  in  the  Arabic,  is  the 
French  Fitz-fils,  and  Eggel-Agl  is  a  stag. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  consider  Sancho 
Fanza  (JPatmcK)  to  be  a  yulgar  down  j 
he  is  the  homely,  shrewd,  natural  native 
of  La  Mancha,  and  may  be  com- 
pared with  the  grave-diggers  in  "  Ham- 
let," or  the  ^nfMs  in  Aristophanes. 
Kotwithstanding  his  preferring  his 
belly  to  honour,  and  his  hota  to  truth, 
his  constant  and  truly  Spanish  refer- 
ence to  self  and  his  own  interests,  we 
love  him  for  the  true  affection  which 
he  bears  to  his  master,  for  his  Boswell- 
like  admiration,  which  hopes  every- 
thing, believes  everything,  in  spite  of 
his  hero's  eccentricities,  which  he  can- 
not help  notickig  and  condemning. 

But  none  who  have  ridden  far  and 
long  with  a  single  humble  Spanish 
attendant,  will  think  either  his  cre- 
dulitv  or  confidence  in  theleast  forced. 
The  mfluence  of  the  mcuter  spirit  over 
the  moM  is  unbounded ;  nor  is  it  any 
exaggeration  to  say,  that  these  squires 
end  in  beUeving  their  English  "  amo  " 
to  be  invincible  and  infcQlible,  if  not 
supernatural,  although  not  perhaps 
owing  to  a  very  orthodox  spiritual  con- 
nexion. Hence  the  Spanish  troops, 
composed  of  such  materials,  enter- 
tained,  said  the  Duke  (Disp.  May  6, 
1812),  an  opinion  that  our  soldiers 
were  invincible,  and  that  it  was  only 
necessary  for  them  to  appear  (like 
Santiago)  to  secure  success.  The  at- 
tachment of  these  fine  fellows  becomes 
devotion,  and  they  will  follow  their 
new  master  to  the  end  of  the  world 
like  a  dog,  leaving  their  own  home, 
and  kith  and  kin.  Neither  is  the  ad- 
mirable and  decorous  conduct  of  San- 
cho,  when  made  a  governor,  at  all  in 
variance  with  Catholic  Spanish  or  Ori- 
ental usages.  There  the  serf  is  the 
raw  matenal  for  the  Pasha  and  Begent. 
"  Dehajo  de  ser  hombre  puedo  venir  a 
ser  Papa^*  says  Sancho.  In  Spain,  as 
in  the  East,  the  veriest  jack  in  office, 
ajrmed  with  authority,  becomes  in  his 


petty  locality  the  representative  of  the 
absolute  king ;  he  suffices  for  the  wel- 
fare of  the  many,  or,  it  may  be,  their 
oppression,  as  the  jawbone  of  an  ass 
did  in  the  hands  of  a  Samson.  Again, 
where  laws  and  habits  of  ceremonial 
manner  are  so  well  defined,  and  the 
bearing  of  the  lower  classes  so  natu- 
rally mgh  bred,  every  one  on  his  pro- 
motion falls,  like  the  Oriental,  into  his 
place,  without  effort  or  imcertaiaty. 

The  spirit  of  wit  which  pervades 
Don  Quixote  is  enhanced  by  the  happy 
and  original  idea  of  bringing  the  sub- 
lime into  a  constant  contact  with 
the  ridiculous ;  hence  the  never-failing 
charm  of  the  conversations  of  master 
and  man,  loa  graciosos  razonamientos, 
the  well-compounded  salad  of  prac- 
tical, utilitarian,  all-for-the-main- 
chance,  common  sense,  with  the  most 
elevated  abstract  romance  of  chivalrous 

fityaktypf^x**'^  *  J^^  ^^^  opposition,  how- 
ever marked,  is  always  natural.  The 
Hidalgo,  tall,  spare,  and  pimctilious, 
clad  in  armour  and  mounted  on  a  steed 
worthy  of  the  burden,  is  balanced  by 
the  short,  round,  fat,  and  familiar 
squire,  clad  in  lus  pano  pardoy  and 
straddling  his  ignoble  "rucio"  The 
one  brave,  temperate,  and  vigilant,  the 
other  cowardly,  greedy,  and  somno- 
lescent:  never  was  the  tel  maitre  tel 
valet  doctrine  more  contradicted.  The 
master,  always  reasoning  well  and 
actiag  absurdly ;  the  servant,  like  the 
Spaniard  in  general,  seeing  clearly  and 
distinctly  what  is  brought  closely  to 
him,  but  with  no  wider  grasp  than  his 
own  petty  profit  and  locality.  Both, 
however,  are  always  and  equally  se- 
rious, and  intensely  in  earnest;  the 
knight  never  losing  sight  of  his  high 
caUmg,  the  squire  of  his  own  eating, 
inta:^t,  and  island,  and,  to  make  per- 
fection perfect,  both  speaking  Spanish, 
that  magnificent  and  ceremonious 
idiom,  and  yet  so  capable  of  expressing 
the  proverbial  mother  wit  of  the  lower 
classes.  This  state-paper  language  of 
big  promise,  and  b^garly,  not  to  say 
ridiculous,  performance,  has  long  been, 
and  long  wul  be,  the  natural  and  ap- 
propriate  yemacular  of  juntas    and 


240 


ROUTE  9. — ^LA  MANCHA — ^DON  QUIXOTE. 


Sect.  II. 


generals,  and  the  multitudinous  Quix- 
otes and  Queeadas  of  the  Peninsula. 

This  truth  to  Spanish  nature,  and 
the  constant  contrast  of  the  suhlime 
and  the  ridiculous,  of  grandeur  and 
poverty,  runs  like  a  vein  of  gold 
throughout  the  whole  novel.  If  true 
-wit  consist  in  bringing  together  things 
-which  have  no  apparent  connexion, 
then  all  books  must  yield  to  this.  The 
high  is  always  being  brought  alongside 
the  low  by  the  master,  and  the  low 
raised  up  to  the  high  by  the  servant,  by 
Don  Quixote  in  ventas,  and  by  Sancho 
among  dukes  and  duchesses.  It  is  the 
true  Mock  Heroic,  and  another  charm 
is  the  propriety  of  the  story  :  every- 
thing is  possible,  nay  probable,  to  hap- 
pen to  any  one  whose  head  was  turned 
by  knight  -  errantry,  and  who  set 
forth  in  search  of  adventures  at  that 
period  and  in  that  country.  The 
simple-spokffli  villager,  thus  transported 
into  new  society,  delights  mankind  by 
his  earnestness,  his  absence  of  all  pre- 
tension to  be  saying  good  things,  and 
his  utter  imconsciousness  of  the  merri- 
ment which  they  produce.  He  never 
laughs  at  his  own  jokes,  which  others 
do  all  the  more,  for  although  he  never 
read  a  word  of  his  coimtryman  Quinc- 
tihan,  he  fiilly  acts  on  his  principle : — 
"  Quam  plurimimi  dictis  severitas  af- 
fert,  sitque  ridiculum  id  ipsum  quia  qui 
dicit  non  ridet."  (Inst.  vi.  3.)  So 
Sancho,  like  Falstaff,  is  not  only  droll 
himself,  but  the  cause  of  wit  in  others. 
The  happy  idea  of  juxta-position  of 
this  novel  is  one  reason  why  all  nations 
love  it;  however  ill  translated,  there 
is  no  mistaking  the  rich  racy  wit  of 
sayings,  doings,  and  situations ;  from 
our  delight  in  this  well-conoeived  plot, 
and  in  our  eagerness  to  get  on  with  the 
story,  to  the  master  and  his  man,  we 
skim  over  the  episodes,  the  beautiful 
descriptions,  the  rural  and  poetical  dis- 
quisitions. The  delicate  Spanisl^  "  Bor- 
r4icha"  is,  however,  untranslatable; 
like  Burgundy,  it  must  be  quaffed  on 
the  spot;  the  aroma  is  too  fine  for 
transportation.  The  proverbs  of  San- 
cho are  comparatively  misplaced  out 
of  Spain.    To  English  ears  they  con- 


vey a  sort  of  vulgarity,  which  they 
neither  do,  nor  were  intended  to  do, 
with  Spaniards.  Cervantes,  like  Shak- 
spere,  is  honourably  distinguished  from 
his  contemporaries,  by  an  avoidance  of 
those  coarse,  dirty,  and  indecent  allu- 
sions, which  were  then  so  prevalent  in 
the  picaresque  and  fSashionable  Utera- 
ture,  insomuch  that  he  was  condemned 
as  austere:  he  felt  that  a  want  of 
decency  is  a  want  of  sense.  His 
moral  is  always  high,  he  shuns  and 
abhors  the  low, — odit  profSa.num  vulgus 
et  aroet.  With  him  repressed  thought 
took  refuge  in  light  burlesque,  in  hidden 
irony,  and  side-wind  assaults.  His 
critical  taste  led  him  equally  to  eschew 
the  affected  euphuisms  of  the  day ;  his 
tact  and  judgment  alwags  kept  his  wit 
and  ridicule  in  its  proper  place,  while 
a  rich  air  of  poetry,  and  a  dramatic 
delineation  of  character,  which  are 
breathed  over  the  whole,  show  that  he 
was  not  merely  a  writ-er  of  novels,  but 
of  tragedy  almost  reaching  the  epic. 
Never  let  Don  Quixote  be  out  of  our 
readers*  alforjas.  Let  it  be  one  of  the 
"  little  hooke  "  which  Dr.  Johnson  said 
no  man  ought  ever  "  not  to  have  in  his 
pocket."  It  is  the  best  HAim-BOOE  for 
La  Mancha,  moral  and  geographical: 
there  is  nothing  in  it  imaginary  except  ^ 
the  hero's  monomania.  It  is  the  best 
comment  on  Spaniards,  who  themselves 
form  the  most  explanatory  notes  on 
the  work,  which  reflects  the  form  and 
pressure  of  them  and  their  country. 

One  word  on  the  different  and  the 
best  editions  of  this  Shakspeare  of 
Spain.*  Happy  the  man  whose  eve 
can  glance  on  a  goodly  set   of   the 

*  Cervantes  and  Shakspeare  died  nominally 
on  the  same  day  —  Pellicer  says,  23rd  April, 
1616 ;  but  it  must  always  be  remembered,  in 
comparing  Spanish  dates  with  English,  that 
dates  apparently  the  same  are  not  so  in  reality. 
The  Gregorian  calendar  was  adopted  in  Spain 
in  1682,  in  England  in  1751.  We  must  there- 
fore make  an  allowance  between  the  old  style 
and  the  new  style,  and  add  to  the  English  date, 
in  order  to  obtain  the  true  corresponding  Spanish 
date  previously  to  1761, 10  days  up  to  1699,  and 
11  afterwards.  Cervantes  lived  and  died  poor. 
Spain,  ever  ungratefiil  to  those  who  serve  her 
best,  raised  no  monument  to  his  memory.  It 
is  only  the  other  day  that  she  has  given  him  a 
stone,  to  whom  living  she  denied  bread. 


Andcducia.        route  9. — don  quixote — best  editions. 


241 


earliest,  worthily  arrayed  in  fawn,  olive, 
and  tender-tinted  old  morocco!  and 
such  as  may  be  seen  in  the  Grenville 
collection  ot  the  British  Museum.  The 
first  edition  of  the  first  part,  Juan  de 
la  Cuesta,  Mad.  1605  ;  the  first  edition 
of  the  same,  as  amended  by  the  author, 
Juan  de  la  Cuesta,  Mad.  1608:  the 
first  edition  of  the  second  part,  Juan 
de  la  Cuesta,  Mad.  1615  ;  and  consult 
Brunet, "  Manuel  du  Libraire"  (i.  370^ 
and  "  Nouvelles  Eecherchee"  (i.  295). 
Of  the  reprints  of  the  original  text  the 
first  really  fine  one  was  published  in 
London  by  Tonson,  4  toIb.  4to.  1737, 
as  the  first  really  critical  one  was  that 
of  John  Bowles,  6  vols.  4to.  1781,  and 
from  which  every  subsequent  commen- 
tator has  borrowed  largely.  Of  mo- 
dem Spanish  editions  the  finest,  that 
"  de  lujo"  was  published  for  the  Aca- 
demy of  Madrid,  by  Ibarra,  4  vols.  fo. 
1780.  That  of  Juan  Ant°-  Pellicer, 
6  vols.  8vo.  Mad.  1797,  contains  many 
valuable  notes.  The  last,  and  not  the 
least,  is  that  of  Don  Diego  Clemencin, 
the  author  of  the  "  Memoirs  of  Queen 
Isabella,"  6  vols.  4to.  1833-39. 

Don  Quixote  has  been  translated 
into  most  languages ;  but  England, 
whose  practical  genius  had  anticipated 
this  travestie  of  the  knight-errant  in  the 
Sir  Topaz  of  Chaucer, — England,  the 
real  nation  for  wit  and  genuine  cari- 
cature, the  land  of  Butler,  Fielding, 
and  Hogarth, — has  published  fistr  more 
splendid  translations  of  Don  Quixote 
than  the  rest  of  the  continent.  The 
best,  in  some  respects,  is  the  earliest, 
that  of  Thomas  Skelton,  1612-1620, 
which  breathes  the  spirit  of  the  age 
and  quaint  manners.  Of  those  by 
Smollett,  Jarvis,  and  Motteux,  the  last 
is  the  very  worst.  It  is,  however,  a 
peccado  mortal — a  heresy — to  read  Don 
Quixote  except  in  his  own  language. 
Such  authors,  like  Dante,  fix  a  language ; 
from  the  feeling  that  they  cannot  be 
adequately  translated  we  learn  the  ori- 
giniQ.  What  idea  can  be  formed  of 
Shakspere,  when  curled  and  powdered 
by  Monsieur  Ducis?  Even  Schiller 
and  Schlegel,  translating  into  a  cognate 
idiom    a   cognate   work,    have   often 

Sjpain, — I, 


missed  the  charm,  and  turned  English 
gold  into  German  silver. 

Cervantes,  like  Velazquez,  was  not 
merely  a  portrait-painter  of  the  Hidal- 
go, but  a  poet — a  critic  of  poets,  and 
somewhat  too  true  a  one  to  be  very  po- 
pular— ^an  author  of  comedy,  tragedy, 
satire,  and  light  novels.  To  him  was 
granted  that  rarest  gift  of  the  Deity,  in- 
vention, that  spark  of  the  Creator's  own 
prerogative.  The  popularity  of  Don 
Quixote  has  eclipsed,  and  justly,  the 
other  works  of  Cervantes,  and  his  taste 
and  style  in  the  drama  approached  too 
nearly  to  the  Greek  theatre  to  succeed 
with  Spaniards,  whose  Sspanolismo 
prefers  the  particular  nature  by  which 
it  is  surrounded.  His  ^^Numantia" 
and  "  Trato  de  Argel"  have  been  com- 
pared to  the  "Persae"  and  "Prome- 
theus." This  Iberian  -^schylus  gave 
way  before  the  rising  sim  of  Lope  de 
Vega ;  he  retired  as  Walter  Scott  did 
before  Byfbn,  to  immortalise  himself 
by  hia  novels.  Lope  de  Vega  was  also 
imitated  by  the  elegant  and  poetical 
Calderon  and  the  soft  harmonious  Guil- 
len de  Castro.  These  three  illustrious 
authors  were  as  nearly  contemporaries 
as  ^schylus,  Sophocles,  and  Euripides 
among  tlie  Greeks;  Shakspere,  Ben 
Jonson,  and  Ford  among  the  English. 
They  elevated  their  stage  to  the  highest 
pitch  of  excellence,  from  whence  it 
soon  declined,  for  such  is  the  condition 
of  human  greatness.  The  first  edition 
of  the  theatrical  works  of  Cervantes, 
"  Oeho  Comeditts  y  Ocho  Sntremeses" 
was  published  at  Mad.  by  theViuda 
de  ^onzo  Martin,  in  1615.  It  was 
republished  at  Mad.  in  2  vols.,  1749. 

The  amusing  little  satire  in  verse  of 
Cervantes,  "  El  Vtcye  al  Pamcuo,^^  has 
not  been  sufficiently  estimated  out  of 
Spain.  The  first  edition  is  that  of 
Aionzo  Martin,  Mad.  1614;  Sancha 
republished  it  at  Mad.  in  1784. 
^  The  first  edition  of  his  other  novels, 
"  Noveku  exemplaresy"  that  of  Juan  de 
Cuesta,  Mad.  1613,  is  rare :  in  default 
of  which  the  collector  must  be  con- 
tented with  the  Mad.  edition  of  Sancha, 
2  vols.  1788 ;  "Los  trahafos  de Persiles^* 
were  first  published  at  Mad.  in  1617. 


242 


ROUTE  9. — SPANISH  PROVERBS — ^VALDEPENAS.  Sect.  II. 


One  word  now  for  honest  Sancho 
Panza's  proverbs,  Refraiiea,  which  are 
peculiarly  classical,  Oriental,  and 
Spanish.  These  ethical  maxims,  Tvtt- 
fMi,  these  wise  saws  and  instances,  are 
in  the  mouth  of  every  Solomon  or 
Sancho  of  the  Peninsula ;  they  are  the 
"refrain,"  the  chorus  and  burden  of 
their  song :  they  are  the  philosophy  of 
the  many,  the  condensed  experience  and 
knowle^e  of  ages,  when  the  wit  of  one 
man  becomes  the  wisdom  of  thousands. 
The  constant  use  of  a  refran  gives  the 
Spaniard  his  sententious,  dogmatical 
admixture  of  humour,  truism,  twaddle, 
and  common  sense ;  a  proverb  well  in- 
troduced— magnas  secat  res :  it  is  as  de- 
cisive of  an  argument  in  Spain  as  a  bet 
is  in  England.  This  shotting  a  dis- 
course always  is  greeted  with  a  smile 
from  high  or  low :  it  is  essential,  na- 
tional, and  peculiar,  like  the  pitched 
skin  borracha  to  Spanish  wines,  and 
garhc  in  their  stews :  therefore  we  have 
sometimes  larded  our  humble  pages 
with  this  flavouring  TK>ndiment. 

Collectors  of  Spanish  proverbs  may 
purchase  JProverbzos,  Lopez  de  Mendo- 
s(a,  fol.  Sevilla,  1509 ;  JRefraneg,  Her- 
nan  Nunez  el  comendador,  fol.  Sala- 
manca, 1555 ;  or  the  4to.  ed.,  Lerida, 
1621,  which  has  the  curious  work  of 
Mallara  reprinted  with  it,  the  original 
edition  of  which,  entitled  Xa  PhUoso- 
phia  Vulgar^  by  Joan  de  Mallara,  is 
a  folio,  Sevilla,  1568,  and  absolutely 
necessary  to  curious  collectors.  There 
is  also  Lugarea  commo/nesy  4to.,  printed 
at  Madrid,  1613,  by  Juan  de  la  Cuesta, 
the  publisher  of  Cervantes.  The  mo- 
dem collection  by  BepuUes,  in  6  duo. 
volumes,  is  use^. 

Scmta  Cruz  de  Mudela  is  a  dull,  un- 
wholesome town:  pop^  5500,,  It  is  cele- 
brated for  its  gurters,  whi<^  the  women 
offer  for  sale  to  the  passengers ;  some 
are  gaily  emlm>idered  and  enlivened 
with  apposite  mottos,  e,  g, 

**  n  digan  ettat  ligat 
Mispenas  yfat^as." 

Soy  de  mi  dueno ;  FeUz  quien  las 
Ojparta;  intrepido  es  amor,  de  todo  sale 
vencidor;  and  so  forth;  but  "Honi 
flpit  qui  mal  y  pense."   Those  epigram- 


mata  are  truly  antique,  and  none  wrote 
them  neater  than  the  Spaniard  Mar- 
tial. Of  such  class  was  the  inscription 
on  the  girdle  of  Hermione — ^iku  ft$  *at 
f»n  Xtnrthf  *}f  rif  i^u  ft,*  trt^os  :  compare 
them  with  the  devices  on  the  Spanish 
cuchillos  of  Albeoete,  the  "  cutler's 
poetry." 

Hence  to  ValdepenaSj  a  straggling 
mud-built  place  of  some  11,000  souls, 
with  an  indifferent  inn.  The  red  blood 
of  the  grape  issues  from  this  valley  of 
stones,  and  is  the  produce  of  the  Bur- 
gundy vine,  transplanted  into  Spain. 
The  liquor  is  kept  in  caves  and  in  huge 
tinajas  or  jars;  when  removed  it  i9 
put  into  goat  and  pig-skins,  cueros, 
such  as  Don  Quixote  attacked.  The 
wine,  when  taken  to  distant  places,  is 
generally  adulterated;  and,  however 
much  is  pretended  to  be  sold  in  Lon- 
don, '*neat  as  imported,"  nothing  is 
more  difficult  than  to  get  it  there  pure 
and  genuine.  When  pure,  it  is  rich, 
fruity,  full-bodied,  high-coloured,  and 
will  keep  well,  and  improve  for  10 
yeara.  The  best  Sodegas  are  those 
which  belonged  to  Don  Carlos,  Juan 
Puente,  and  the  Marques  de  Santa 
Cruz,  who  has  a  mansion  here.  The 
wine  is  worth  on  the  spot  about  4Z. 
the  pipe;  the  land-carriage  is,  how- 
ever, expensive,  and  it  is  apt,  when 
conveyed  in  skins,  to  be  tapped  and 
watered  by  the  muleteers,  whence  vino 
moro — ^that  is,  wine  which  has  never 
been  thus  baptized — is  proverbially 
popular:  Yaldepenas  sometimes  goes 
wrong  during  the  sea  voyage ;  the  best 
plan  is  to  send  up  double  quarter  sherry 
casks,  which  then  must  be  conveyed  to 
Cadiz  or  Santander. 

The  town  of  Yaldepenas  was  sacked 
by  the  invaders,  June  6,  1808,  under 
Liger  Bellair;  80  houses  were  burnt, 
and  the  unresisting,  unarmed  popula- 
tion, butchered  in  the  cellars  in  drunken 
sport  (Toreno,  iv.). 

Yaldepenas  lies  about  half-way  be- 
tween Granada  and  Madrid;  those 
who  wish  to  go  to  Estremadura  will 
turn  off  to  the  rt.  through  8aceruela» 
The  geologist  and  botanist,  proceeding 
to  Seville,  may  make  a  riding  detour, 


Andcducia. 


ROUTE  9. — CUEVA  DE  MONTESINOS. 


243 


viBiting  Oiudad  !Real  and  Almaden 
(see  p.  247),  and  thence  to  Cordova, 
avoiding  thereby  the  unintepesting 
angle  of  Bailen  and  Andujar;  the 
route  will  be  found  at  p.  221. 

After  living  Yaldepenas  the  misery 
of  villages  and  villagers  increases  to 
Manzana/res.  Pop.  9000.  Ta/radordel 
CarrUlo*  The  men  get  browner  and 
poorer,  the  women  more  ugly,  country 
and  cloaks  more  rusty  and  threadbare. 
Hemp  is  a  luxury  for  shoes,  and  the 
rare  stocking  is  made  like  that  of  Va- 
lencia, without  feet,  an  emblem  of  a 
student's  purse,  open' and  containing 
nothing.  The  cloaked  peasants  grouped 
around  their  mud  cabins  seem  to  be 
statues  of  silence  and  poverty,  yet  the 
soil  is  fertile  in  com  and  wine.  At  the 
Venta  de  Qaesada  Don  Quixote  {que- 
gada,  lantern-jawed)  was  knighted,  and 
Cervantes  must  have  sketched  the  actual 
inn,  and  its  still  existing  well.  The 
water  communicateswith  the  Guadiana, 
the  under-groimd  Mole  of  Spanish 
rivers.  Indeed,  the  ancient  name,  Anas, 
is  derived  from  this  "  hide  and  seek  " 
propensity ;  Hcmcu  in  the  Punic,  and 
Sanaaa  in  the  Arabic,  signifying  "  to 
appear  and  disappear."  It  is  called  the 
lAtcalee  by  the  Spanish  Gitanos.  The 
Wadi- Anas,  like  ^le  Guadalquivir,  eats 
its  dull  way  through  loomy  IB^ks — a 
subterranean  not  a  submarine  Alpheus : 
it  rises  in  the  swamps,  or  Laguncts  de 
Buidera,  and  loses  itself  again  15  miles 
from  its  source,  at  TomeUoso  ;  it  reap- 
pears, after  flowing  7  L.  underground 
at  Daymiel.  The  lakes  which  it  throws 
up  are  called  the  eyes,  Los  qjos  de  la 
Guadiana,  and  the  ground  above  is 
called  the  bridge.  This  and  the  eyes 
lead  to  trivial  witticisms,  in  regard  to 
the  dark  glancine  Manchegas,  and  this 
bridge's  superiority  over  the  Pont  Neuf 
at  Paris.  The  disappearance  is  not 
sudden,  like  that  of  the  Bhone,  which 
descends  into  a  gulf,  as  here  it  is  sucked 
up  into  unpicturesque  marshes.  Their 
chief  interest  arises  firom  Don  Quixote. 
The  Cueva  de  Montesinos,  into  which 
the  knight  descended,  although  the 
name  savours  of  romance  and  the 
peerage  of  Charlemagne,  really  exists  in 


the  Campo  de  MonUel.  This  site  was 
the  last  scene  of  the  fratricidal  warfare 
between  Pedro  the  Cruel  and  Henry  of 
Trastamara,  who  here  butchered  his 
king  and  brother,  aided  by  French 
knights,  by  whom  the  monarch  was 
held  unfairly  down  in  the  death- 
struggle.  The  decisive  battle  of  Mori' 
tiel  was  fought  Wednesday,  March  14, 
1369.  The  dilatory  Spaniard  Pedro 
was  surprised  before  his  forces  joined, 
by  the  rapid  Frenchman  Mosen  Bel- 
tran  de  Claquin,  the  "  hero  "  Du  Ques- 
lin  of  the  French,  un  ml  traidor 
according  to  the  Spaniards.  (See  Cro- 
nica  del  Rey  Don  Pedro,  c.  vi.).  An 
indifferent  history  of  this  king  has  been 
written  by  P.  Merim^.  The  cave  lies 
about  1  L.  from  the  village  of  Osa  de 
Montiel ;  it  is  near  the  JSrmita  de  Sae- 
lices,  and  one  of  the  lacunas,  of  which 
by  the  way  there  are  11,  and  not  7,  as 
Cervantes  says.  They  are  full  of  fish ; 
each  has  its  own  name,  that  of  La  Col' 
gada  being  the  largest,  deepest,  and 
most  interesting,  because  its  cool  waters 
are  guarded  by  the  rock-built  ruined 
casj^  of  Mochqfrida,  in  which  lived 
Boca  Florida,  to  whom  Montesinos 
was  married. 

Al  Castillo  llaman  Rocha, 
Y  a  la  fuente  Frida. 

These  lakes,  these  eyes  of  the  Gua- 
diana, which,  according  to  the  Don, 
were  fed  to  overflowing,  as  the  Nile  was 
by  the  tears  of  Isis  (Pans.  x.  32,  18), 
firom  the  tears  of  Belerma,  with  her  7 
daughters  and  2  maidens  weeping  for 
her  Durandante,  slain  at  BoncevaUes, 
are  really  formed  by  the  a^M^umulation 
of  waters  which  flow  down  from  the 
Sierra  de  Alcaraz.  The  Cueva  de 
Montesinos  (Don  Quix.  ii.  23)  itself  is 
about  40  yards  wide  and  60  deep,  and 
is  used  as  a  refuge  in  storms  by  hunters 
and  shepherds.  The  entrance  is  blocked 
up  with  underwood.  As  in  the  Don's 
time,  it  is  the  haunt  of  bats  and  birds, 
who  have  deposited  a  bed  of  guano 
nearly  a  foot  thick.  The  cave  probably 
was  part  of  an  ancient  mine,  as  a  laby- 
rinth of  shafts  have  been  traced,  and 
heaps  of  metaUic  rubbish,  escoriales, 
found.    There  is  a  lake  at  the  bottom. 

H  2 


244 


ROUTE  9. — ^EL  TOBOSO — MADRIDEJOS. 


Sect.  IT. 


Perhaps  Madridejos  is  the  most 
convenient  place  to  start  from  on  a 
trip  into  Don  Quixote's  country,  as  JEl 
Tohoso  lies  about  7  L.  distant,  through 
Guero  4,  and  Osa  de  Montiel;  and 
only  8  L.,  through  Solatia  1,  Alhambra 
3,  and  thence  4  more.  A  pleasant 
tour  might  be  made  by  following  the 
Don's  route,  which  commentators  have 
laid  down,  or  rather  attempted,  for 
Cervantes  wrote  with  the  ^atest  geo- 
graphical carelessness  and  inaccuracy. 
See,  however  the  map  of  his  route  in 
the  2nd  vol.  of  Pelliser's  Madrid  edi- 
tion, 1798. 

El  Tohoso  is  a  poor  place  on  a  plain, 
althoiagh  €rf  a  European  reputation; 
the  name  is  derived  from  the  tohasy  or 
sort  of  porous  stones,  which  still,  as  in 
the  time  of  Cervantes,  are  much  used  in 
making  water-jars.  According  to  Pel- 
licer  and  Cervantic  commentators,  the 
original  of  the  Don's  sweetheart  Dul- 
cinea,  Aldonza  Lorenzo  Corchuelo,  was 
a  Miss  Aldonza  (a  word  which  means 
sweet)  Zarco  de  Morales,  and  she  lived 
in  the  still  existing  Casa  de  Torredlla. 
El  Toboso  was  moreover  foundei^by 
Don  Perez  Correa,  for  whom  the  sun 
stood  still  (see  Detentudia,  p.  218). 

Continuing  the  high  road  to  Madrid 
is  Puerto  Lapiche,  a  poor  place,  where 
the  Don  informed  Sancho  that  they 
might  get  elbow-deep  in  adventures. 
The  "Pass"  is  placed  between  two 
oliv6-clad  gentle  slopes,  with  sundry 
groups  of  windmills,  which,  being 
smaller  than  ours,  are  really  not  un- 
like giants  at  a  distance;  they  are 
very  numerous,  for  this  is  a  country  of 
much  com  to  grind,  and  little  water- 
power.  The  crack-brained  knight 
might  well  be  puzzled  by  these  mills, 
for  they  were  novelties  at  that  time, 
having  only  been  introduced  into 
Spain  in  1575,  and  had  just  before 
perplexed  even  Cardan,  the  wise  man 
of  his  age,  who  describes  one  as  if  it 
had  been  a  steam-engine :  "  Nor  can  I 
pass  over  in  silence  what  is  so  won- 
derful, that  before  I  saw  it  I  could 
neither  believe  nor  relate  it  without 
incurring  the  imputation  of  credulity ; 

t  a  thirst    for    science   overcomes 


bashfulness  "  (De  Ber.  Var.  i.  10).  A 
new  road  is  in  contemplation  from 
Puerto  Lapiche  to  Almaden,  and  hence 
into  Estremadura. 

Four  it.  from  Manzanares  to  the  rt. 
is  Ar^amasilla  de  Alba,  in  the  prison 
of  which  Cervantes  is  said  to  have 
written  his  Don  Quixote.  According 
to  a  tradition  in  the  village  he  was 
confined  in  the  Casa  de  Medrano. 
But  free  and  immortal  have  been  the 
works  composed  in  durance  vQe :  the 
Bible  was  translated  by  Luther  in  the 
Castle  of  Wartburg ;  the  prison-engen- 
dered poem  of  Tasso,  and  the  pilgrimage 
of  Bunyan,  roam  over  the  world  fresh, 
and  unconfined  ns  the  air  we  breathe. 

Near  Villarta  the  province  of  New 
Castile  is  entered,  which  here  resembles 
La  Mancha.  Madridejos,  pop.  7000, 
has  a  nice,  cool,  refreshing  inn.  The 
bread  is  exquisite,  although  the  water 
is  bad,  and  the  cheese  not  much  better, 
however  well  it  did  for  the  Alfofy'as  of 
honest,  hungry  Sancho,  and  his  mule- 
teer digestion.  The  railroad  w];^ch  runs 
in  3  h.  to  Madrid  commences  at  Tern- 
hleque,  a  cold,  stony, wretched  place.  La 
Gruardia,  rising  on  a  ridge  of  rocks,  was 
once  an  outpost  gua/rd  against  the 
Moors.  This  hamlet  was  the  birthplace 
oiJuan  Passamowte,  el  Nino  de  Ghiardia, 
the  theiSe  of  many  a  pen  and  pencil  of 
Spam.  The  Toledan  clergy  in  1490 
accused  the  rich  Jews  of  crucifying  a 
Christian  boy  at  thdr  Passovers,  and 
putting  his  heart  into  a  Hostia^  and 
for  the  pretended  sacrifice  of  this  Juan, 
the  wealthiest  Israelites  were  burnt 
and  their  chattels  confiscated.  This 
accusation  was  very  prevalent,  e.  g» 
our  St.  William  of  Norwich,  and 
the  boy  Hugh  of  Lincoln.  Consult, 
on  this  legend,  and  miracles  of  el  Nino 
de  OuardiafWorks  by  Rodrigo  de  Yepes, 
.4to.  Madrid,  1583 ;  by  Juan  Marieta, 
8vo.,  Mad,  1604;  by  Sebastian  de 
Nieva;  by  Ant.  Guzman,  1720,  and 
also  by  Pisa.  The  orthodox  account 
is  painted  in  the  parish  church  of  La 
Gf^uardia,  and  -in  the  hermitage  Jesus 
the  actual  cave  is  shown  in  which  the 
martyred  boy  was  kept  and  scourged 
three  months  before  the  Jews  crucified 


Andalucia. 


ROUTE  9.— OCANA — SP.  DEFKAT. 


245 


him :  credat  Judeeus.  Here,  and  indeed 
generally  in  these  corn-growing  central 
plains,  the  traveller  should  remark  the 
eras,  the  common  Spanish  and  Oriental 
threshing-floors  in  the  open  air,  and 
the  driving  the  trillo  over  the  com, 
with  horses,  after  a  most  Homeric 
fashion  (see  Gatherings,  p.  115).  The 
females  hereabouts  look  half  Swiss,  half 
Dutch,  with  their  blue  and  green  petti- 
coats and  handkerchiefs  i6ider  their 
chins.  The  miserable  population,  whofe 
houses  were  burnt  by  the  invaders,  bur- 
row Hke  rabbits  in  troglodyte  excava- 
tions, whence  they  emerge  to  beg  of  the 
dihgences  as  they  ascend  the  hill. 

Thence  to  Ocaiia,  between  which  and 
Los  Ba/rrios  the  Spaniards,  Nov.  19, 
1809,  suflfered  a  defeat,  one  of  the 
greatest  of  these  many  feats.  In  that 
year  the  Junta  of  Seville,  urged  by 
intriguers  who  sighed  to  get  back  to 
Madrid,  and  by  others  who  wished  to 
do  without  the  English  assistance,  de- 
termined, in  defiance  of  the  Duke's 
warnings  and  entreaties,  to  assume  the 
offensive.  His  letters  seem  really  to 
have  been  written  after  the  events,  and 
not  before  them,  so  completely,  with 
the  inttiition  of  strong  sense,  did  he 
understand  the  Spaniards ;  and  so  truly 
4iid  he  prophesy  their  certain  discom- 
fiture, the  loss  of  Andalucia,  and  his 
own  compulsory  retreat  into  Portugal. 
The  Junta  prepared  an  army  of  60,000 
men,  armed  and  equipped  by  English 
monies.  The  leader,  one  Juan  Carlos 
de  Areizaga,  advanced  from  the  defiles, 
giving  out  that  the  English  were  with 
him ;  and  such  fear  thereupon  prevailed 
at  Madrid,  where  the  report  was  be- 
heved,  that  the  enemy  thought  at  once 
of  retreating  vdthout  a  fight ;  and  had 
Areizaga  advanced,  he  must  have  sur- 
prised and  overwhelmed  the  handful  of 
French  at  Aranjuez  (Belmas,  i.  99)  : 
having,  however,  by  his  delay  given 
Soult  the  means  of  collecting  troops,  he 
then,  as  if  infatuated,  risked  a  battle  in 
the  plain.  There  two  short  hours  more 
than  sufficed  for  25,000  brave  French  to 
put  55,000  Spaniards  to  an  indescribable 
rout,  during  which  Areizaga  placed 
himself  on  a  belfry  in  Ocana,  a  mute 


spectator  of  his  own  disgrace,  giving 
no  directions  whatever,  except  to  order 
his  reserve,  a  body  of  15,000  men, 
who  had  not  fired  a  shot,  to  retreat. 
He  then,  and  Freire,  the  hero  of  San 
Mardal!  set  the  example  of  flight; 
nor  did  either  even  attempt  to  make  a 
stand  behind  the  impregnable  rocks  of 
Despeiia-perros  or  Alcald  la  Meal. 
Their  unhappy  troops,  deserted  by 
their  chiefs,  could  but  follow  their 
leaders.  La  Mancha  was  covered  with 
runaways.  Soult  took  42  cannon, 
26,000  prisoners,  and  killed  5000, 
while  his  loss  barely  reached  1600. 
The  Spanish  army  disappeared  from 
the  face  of  the  earth:  after  the  Oriental 
fashion,  every  man  fled  to  his  city  and 
country.  But  Ocana  is  but  a  thing  of 
Spain,  past  and  present,  where  mis- 
fortime  is  no  school.  Compare  Me- 
dellin,  Ciudad  Real,  &c.  Ocana  was 
forthwith  sacked,  and  the  precious 
archives  of  the  Ayimtamiento  burnt. 

Buonaparte,  who,  jealous  that  it 
could  be  supposed  in  France  that  any 
one  could  do  great  things  except  him- 
self (Foy,  i.  159),  scarcely  noticed  the 
event.  "  Le  Moniteur  fit  h.  peine  men- 
tion de  cette  memorable  affaire,  dont 
celui  qui  Tavait  conduite  eut  pu  comme 
Cesar  rendre  compte  en  trois  mots, 
veni,  vidi,  vici."  Yet  as  a  victory  it 
was  most  important,  since  it  fixed 
Joseph  on  the  tottering  throne,  gave 
Granada  to  Sebastiani,  Seville  to  Soult, 
and  placed  the  treasures  and  supphes 
of  rich  unpillaged  Andalucia  in  their 
clutches.  "  Alas !"  said  the  Duke,  whose 
great  planis  were  thus  frustrated,  "  that 
a  cause  which  promised  so  well  a  few 
weeks  ago  shoiild  have  been  so  com- 
pletely lost  by  the  ignorance,  pre- 
sumption, and  mismanagement  of  those 
to  whose  direction  it  was  confided" 
(Disp.  Dec.  6,  1809).  "Nothing  would 
do  but  fighting  great  battles  in  plains, 
in  which  their  defeat  is  as  certain  as 
is  the  commencement  of  the  battle.'* 
Ferdinand  VII.,  a  prisoner  atValen^ay, 
was  mean  or  false  enough,  probably 
both,  to  write  to  congratulate  Joseph 
on  this  victory  (Schep.  i.  69)  ;  while 
this  incompetent  Areizaga — Sonradis- 


246 


ROUTE  10. — VAIDEPENAS  TO  ALMADEN. 


Sect.  II. 


simo  nulUar !  repeats  Madoz  now-a- 
days,  xii.  210 — who  lost  it,  instead  of 
being  cashiered,  was  presented  by  the 
Junto  with  a  fine  horse,  and  was  after- 
wards made  Captain  General  of  Biscay 
by  this  very  Ferdinand  in  1814 :  Cos<u 
de  Mspaiia, 

The  diligence  Pcurador  and  Posada 
de  los  Catalanes  are  decent ;  Oeana  is 
an  uninteresting  place,  with  some  di- 
lapidated barracks :  pop.  5000.  As 
the  roads  from  Valencia,  Murcia,  and 
Andalucia  meet  here,  there  is  a  con- 
stant passage  of  carriages,  carts,  and 
muleteers  ;  members  of  the  temperance 
society  will  find  the  water  here,  which 
is  so  scarce  and  bad  in  La  Mancha,  most 
abundant  and  deUcious.  Thid  Juente 
vieja,  with  its  aqueduct,  has  been  attri- 
buted to  the  Bomans.  The  pubUc 
lavadero  is  worth  the  artist's  attention 
for  picturesque  groups  of  garrulous 
particoloured  washerwomen.  Alonso 
de  Ercilla,  the  author  of  the  *  Aran- 
cana,^  the  epic  of  Spanish  Uterature, 
was  buried  in  the  convent  of  CarmeUta^ 
Descalzas,  His  ashes  were  scattered 
to  the  dust  by  Soult*s  troops ;  yet 
Ercilla  was  a  soldier,  and  soldiers  have 
been  the  best  poets  and  novelists  of 
the  Peninsula.  At  Ocafia  the  natural 
son  of  Philip  IV.,  Don  Juan  of  Aus- 
tria, who  played  such  a  distinguished 
part  in  the  minority  of  Charles  II., 
was  brought  up.  The  natural  children 
of  the  Spanish  kings  never  were  allowed 
to  enter  Madrid  during  their  father's 
life,  from  the  grandees  disputing  their 
taking  precedence  over  them. 

Emerging  through  a  rocky  gorge  of 
volcanic  hiUs,  we  reach  Aranjuez  (for 
details  consult  Index) ;  and  on  pass- 
ing the  palace,  and  the  Plaza  de  San 
Antonio,  the  Tagus  is  crossed  by  an 
iron  suspension  bridge.  Driving  up 
the  verdurous  calle  larffa,  a  noble  stone 
bridge,  built  by  Charles  III.,  is  carried 
across  the  Jarama.  After  ascending 
the  C-aesta  de  la  Rema^  the  descent 
recommences,  and  the  oasis  Aranjuez, 
with  its  green  meadows,  gardens,  night- 
ingales, and  watersprings,  disappears, 
while  its  remembrance  becomes  doubly 
ightful  from,  the  contrast  with  tawny 


nakedness.  A  raUroad,  opened  Nov. 
13,  1850,  runs  from  the  portal  of  the 
palace  to  Madrid. 

Continuing  by  the  road  soon  after 
passing  Valdemoro,  which,  why  and 
wherefore  we  know  not,  is  coupled  with 
Pinto,  to  express  a  "half  tipsy,  half- 
seas-over  man  "  in  Spain,  is  the  cajstle 
of  Pinto,  in  which  the  Princess  of  Eboli 
was  confined  by  Philip  II.  The 
Hermitage  and  Telegraph  of  Pinto  is 
considered  to  be  the  central  point  of 
the  Peninsula.  Soon  Madrid  is  per- 
ceived, rising  on  a  broken  eminence 
out   of  an   apparent   plain.    Only   a 

Sortion  being  seen,  it  looks  small,  mo- 
em,  and  un-Spanish,  from  its  low 
domes  and  extinguisher-shaped  spires : 
the  last  relay  is  at  Los  Angeles,  "  The 
Angels,"  where  devils  would  not  live 
could  they  help  it.  Approaching  the 
bed  of  the  Manzanares  the  scene  im- 
proves, especially  when  there  is  any 
water  in  it.  The  dip  is  crossed  by  a 
superb  viaduct.  The  diligence  usually 
winds  round  the  mean  mud  walls  to  the 
rt.,  enters  the  Puerta  de  Atocha,  and 
then  passes  through  the  Prado  and 
Calle  de  Alcald;  thus  offering,  for  the 
first  sight,  the  best  promenade  and 
finest  street  of  the  capital.  For  Madrid, 
see  Sect,  xi.,  New  Castile. 


Route  10. — ^ValdepeSas  to 
Almaden. 

Moral 2 

Almagro 2  ..  4 

audadReal 3  ..  1 

Al  Corral  de  Caraquel.     .  3  ..  10 

CabezaradoB 3  ..  13 

Abenojar 1  ..  14 

Saceniela 4  ..  18 

Almaden 5  ..  23 

The  road  to  Ciudad  Beal  is  carriage- 
able. It  is  in  contemplation  to  improve 
the  whole  route  from  Puerto  Lapiche 
and  thence  on  to  AUnaden,  and  so  on 
into  Estremadura.  Almagro  is  a  well- 
built,  agricultural  town,  with  a  fine 
convent  of  the  Calatrava  order  of  the 
16th  century:  observe  the  staircaise 
and  cloisters.  Much  blond  laoe  is 
made  here.    At  1^  L.  distant,  on  the 


Anddlticia, 


ROUTE  10. — ESPARTERO — CIXJDAD  REAL. 


247 


road  to  Almodovar  del  Campo,  is  Ghra- 
natula,  the  Tillage  ia  which  Baldomero 
Espartero  was  bom,  in   1790.      His 
&ther  was  an  humble  dealer  in  Esparto. 
The  son,  destined  to  be  a  monk,  began 
life  as  a  poor  student,  but,  when  the 
war  of  independence  broke  out,  his 
martial  turn  led  him  to  join  el  hatoMon 
tagrado.     In  1816  he  volunteered  to 
serve  in  S.  America.     Haying,  it  is 
said,  won  money  of  Canterac  and  other 
generals,  with  whom  pay  was  in  a  case 
of  stagnation,  he  was  paid  by^promo- 
tion.    He  fought  weU  during  the  pre- 
vious campaigns  against  BoUvar.    This 
war  was  endSi  by  the  battle  of  Aya- 
cucho,*  in  Lower  Peru,  where  Sucre 
(Dec.  8, 1825)  completely  defeated  the 
royahsts.  A  drdra  convention  ensued, 
by  which  the  beaten  officers  secured 
their  safe  transpoHcttion  to  Spain,  and 
to  new  titles;   hence  the  depreciatory 
apodo,  or  nickname,  IJos  Ayacttchos,  of 
which  Maroto,  Yaldes,  Eodil,  Taoon, 
Seoane,  and  sundry  other  mediocrities 
were  among  the  stsurs.    Espartero  hav- 
ing obtained  the  rank  of  a  colonel,  and 
being  quartered  at  Logrono,  there  mar- 
ried Dona  Jacinta  de  la  Cruz,  a  most 
excellent  lady  of  considerable  fortune. 
The  AyacuchoSf   companions   in  dis- 
grace, clung  afterwards  together;  the 
defeats  by  the  Carlists  of  the  blunder- 
ing Yaldes,  Cordova,  and  Co.,  made 
way  for  Espartero,  whose  fortune  was 
completed  by  the  death  of  Zumulacar- 
regui,  and  his  reUef  of  Bilbao  by  help 
of  the  English ;  then  he  soon  managed 
the  Yergara  convention  with  his  brother 
Ayacucho  Maroto,  and  thus  rose  to  be 
the  Duke  of  Yictory.      Personally  a 
very  brave  and  honest  man,  he  was 
timid  and  vacillating  in  authority,  and 
therefore  fell  imder  the   intrigues  of 
Christina  and  Louis  Philippe ;  as  Re- 
gent he  was  disposed  to  govern  accord- 
ing to  constitutional  law.     Now-a-days 
— 1854 — ^he  has  a  better  chance.    Ve- 
remo8. 

Ciudad  Meal ;  Posada  de  las  More- 

*  Ayacucho  ia  an  Indian  word,  and  signifies 
the  "plain  of  the  dead,"  as  it  was  the  site  of 
one  of  AlmagTo's  and  Pizarro's  early  butcheries 
of  the  poor  aborigines,  whose  manes  were  now 
avenged. 


ras:  this  royaZ  ci^^,  although  Cervantes 
did  call  it  "  imperial  and  the  seat  of  the 
god  of  smiles,"  is  one  of  the  poorest  and 
dullest  of  the  inland  capitals  of  Spain, 
and  one  of  the  most  atrasado,  and  that 
is  saying  something:  pop.  about  10,000. 
The  capital  of  its  province,  one  rich  in 
mines  and  in  neglected  capabihties,  it 
was  built  on  a  plain  near  the  Ghia- 
dia^na  by  Alonso  el  Sahio^  <^<1  entitled 
Real  by  Juan  II.  in  1420 ;  portions  of 
the  walls  with  towers  remain.  Before 
the  final  conquest  of  Granada  it  wa«> 
in  fact,  the  frontier  city  and  seat  of 
the  Court  of  Chancery  for  the  south. 
Here  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  organised 
the  H&rmandad^  a  mounted  brother- 
hood, a  gendarmerie  or  guardia  civile 
to  protect  the  roads.  Among  the  few 
objects  at  Ciudad  B*eal,  visit  the  noble 
pile  of  the  hospital  founded  by  Cardinal 
Lorenzana,  converted  into  a  barracks 
by  Sebastiani;  notice  the  curious  strong 
semi  moresque  Ptierta  de  Toledo.  The 
city  is  under  the  patronage  of  the  Vir- 
gin del  Prado ;  her  image,  found  in  a 
meadow,  is  the  palladium  of  the  parish 
church ;  the  silver  offerings  disappeared 
mostly  in  the  last  war.  This  church 
has  a  magnificent  single  Gothic  nave 
and  a  Betablo  with  subjects  from  the 
Passion,  carved  in  1616  by  Giraldo  de 
Merlo,  and  almost  equal  to  Montanes : 
a  lofty  tower  has  recently  been  buHt. 

Near    Ciudad    Beal,   on   the    27th 
March,  1809,  while  Yictor  was  routing 
the  *'  old  blockhead"  Cuesta  at  Me- 
dellin,  did  Sebafitiani,  with  only  12,000 
men,  by  one  charge !  put  to  instanta- 
neous flight  19,000  Spaniards,  com- 
manded by  Urbina,  Conde  de  Cartoajal, 
This  pobrecito  had  marched  and  coun- 
termarched his  Bisonos  almost  to  death 
for  48  hours,  and  for  no  object  (Toreno, 
viii.).   In  the  moment  of  attack  he  lost 
his  head,  and  one  regiment  of  Dutch 
hussars!  scattered  the  whole  Spanish 
army!   1500  were  killed,  4000  taken 
prisoners.    Cartoajal  and  the  rest  they 
ran  away :  then,  as  usual,  were  lost  all 
the  English  arms  and  stores  provided 
for  the  defence  of  the  Sierra  Morena, 
but    which,  entrusted   to    fools    and 
cowards,  became,  in    feet,   so   mu**^ 


248 


ROUTE  11. — SEVILLE  TO  BADAJOZ. 


Sect.  II. 


assistance,  as  elsewhere,  to  the  common 
enemy.  Cartoajal,  instead  of  being 
cashiered,  was  praised !  by  the  Cadiz 
regency,  and  was  declared  to  have  de- 
served well  of  his  country!  (Schep. 
ii.  671). 

The  Spanish  army  disappeared  from 
the  faceof  the  earth  j  after  the  Oriental 
fashion,  every  man  fled  to  his  city  and 
country.  But  all  this  is  but  a  thing 
of  Spain,  past  and  present.  What  says 
Livy  (xxi.  17),  describing  the  victory 
of  Manlius :  "  Turdetani  (the  Andalu- 
cians),  freti  tamen  mulUtudine  sud  oh- 
viam  ierunt  agmini  Bomano.  JEques  im- 
missus  turbavit  extemplo  aciem  eorum. 
Pedestre  prseUum  nuUius  ferme  certa- 
minis  fuit.  MiUtes  veteres,  perites  hos- 
tium  helUque^  baud  dubiam  pugnam 
fecere."  Again,  on  another  occasion, 
"Pulsi  castris  Hispani,  aut  qui  ex 
prseUo  effugerant  sparsi  primo  per 
agros  (see  Talavera,  &c.),  deinde  in 
suaaquisquecivitatesredienmt"  (Livy, 
xxix.  2). 

Route  11. — Seville  to  Badajoz. 

Aracena 18 

Segura  de  Leon 6 


Valencia 

.      3 

Zafra 

.       3 

Fuente  del  Maestre     .     . 

.       3 

Santa  Marta      .     .     .     . 

2 

Albuera 

.     .       3 

Bads^oz 

4 

This,  the  mountain  road,  must  be 
ridden :  for  the  first  24  L.  see  p.  216. 
At  Valencia,  3  L.  from  Segura  de  Leon, 
is  another  fine  castle.  Passing  Medina 
de  las  Torres  we  reach  Zafra,  placed 
under  a  denuded  ridge  to  the  1. :  pop. 
some  5000.  Posada  de  Pepe  indif- 
ferent. This  most  ancient  city  was  the 
Segeda  of  the  Iberians  and  Julia  Besti- 
tuta  of  the  Bomans.  It  is  full  of 
buildings  begun  in  better  times  and  on 
a  grand  scale,  but  they  have  either  re- 
mained unfinished,  or  have  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  invaders  under  Drouet, 
in  1811. 

The  great  lords  of  Zafra  were  the 
Figueroas,  whose  dukedom  of  Feria  is 
now  merged  in  that  of  the  Medina  Celi, 
Their  shield,  charged  with  canting  fig- 


leaves,  stiU  appears  on  the  chief  edi- 
fices, although  generally  defaced  by  the 
French.  First  visit  the  ducal  Falacio, 
passing  out  by  the  handsome  granite 
Puerta  del  Acebuche:  this  Gk)thic  Al' 
cazar  was  erected,  as  an  inscription 
over  the  portal  states,  by  Lorenzo 
Suarez  de  Figueroa,  in  1437.  Near 
the  porch  is  one  of  the  curious  primi- 
tive iron-ribbed  cannon,  saved  from 
the  many  others  which  the  invaders 
destroyed  when  they  plundered  the 
once  curious  armoury  and  made  a  for- 
tress of  the  palace.  The  patio  has  been 
modernized  in  the  Herrera  style,  and 
is  handsome,  with  fine  marbles,  Ionic 
and  Doric  pillars,  and  a  fountain.  The 
interior,  gutted  by  the  enemy,  has  been 
degraded  by  the  stewards  of  the  duke, 
who  have  from  time  to  time  suited  this 
once  lordly  dwelling  to  their  base  wants 
and  tastes.  The  open  arched  galleries 
between  the  huge  towers  of  the  Alcazar 
command  fine  views  over  the  gardens 
and  olive-grounds  of  the  environs. 

Adjoining  to  the  Alcazar  is  the  unfi- 
nished convent  of  Santa  Marina,  which 
was  desecrated  by  the  invaders.  In 
the  chapel  observe  the  sepulchre  of 
Margaret  Harrington,  daughter  of  Lord 
Exton,  erected  in  1601  by  her  cousin, 
the  Duchess  of  Feria,  also  an  English 
woman ;  she  was  the  Jane  Dormer,  the 
most  trusted  of  Queen  Mary's  ladies  of 
honour,  and  the  wife  of  Phihp  II.'s. 
ambassador  in  London  at  the  important 
moment  of  Elizabeth's  succession.  Her 
body  rests  here,  but,  true  to  her  country 
in  death,  she  sent  her  heart  to  England. 
Her  effigy  kneels  before  a  prie  Dieu, 
with  a  mantle  on  her  head ;  it  was  once 
painted,  but  has  been  whitewashed :  her 
portrait  was  destroyed  by  the  French. 

Going  out  of  the  Puerta  de  Sevilla 
is  a  nice  httle  dlameda,  with  a  dehcious 
water-spring,  brought  in  on  arches,  and 
called  La  fuente  del  Duque.  Among 
the  GrsBco-Eomano  buildings  in  Zafra- 
observe  the  magnificent  marble  Doric 
and  Ionic  patio  of  La  Casa  Qrande, 
built  by  the  Daza  MaJdonados,  and  the 
fine  colonnades  j  notice  also  the  Doric 
and  Ionic  brick  tower  of  the  Colegiata; 
neither  of  these  edifices  are  finished,  or 


Andalucia, 


ROUTE  12. — SEVILLE  TO  BADAJ02. 


249 


ever  vnil  be :  meantime  the  Plaza  de 
Toros  has  been  completed. 

Visit  next  the  Santa  Clara,  founded 
by  the  Figueroas  in  1428  (see  date 
over  portal) ;  the  invaders  desecrated 
this  convent  and  mutilated  the  recum- 
bent figures  of  the  fouuder  and  his 
wife,  and  a  Boman  statue  in  a  toga  and 
sandals:  observe  the  effigy  of  Ghi-rci- 
lazo  de  la  Vega,  killed  before  Q-ranada 
in  the  presence  of  Enrique  IV. ;  re*- 
mark  his  singular  bonnet.  The  French 
made  this  gallant  knight's  statue,  with 
others  of  the  Figueroa  femily,  the  butt 
of  wanton  outrage ;  observe  that  with- 
out a  head,  called  Dona  Maria  de  Moya. 

The  road  at  Z(ifra  diverges,  and 
passes  either  to  Merida,  9'L.,  by  dreary 
Almend/ralejo,  where,  Aug.  25,  1847, 
the  great  silver  Disco  of  Theodosius 
was  found,  now  at  Madrid  in  the  Acar 
demy  of  History,  and  then  either  by 
arid  Torre  Mejia,  or  by  the  high  road 
through  Albuera. 


Route  12. — Sbtiixe  to  Badajoz, 


Guillena .  . 
Ronquillo  . 
Santa  Olalla 
Monasterio  . 
Fuente  de  Cantos 


4 
3 

4 
4 
3 


1 

11 
15 
18 


Los  Santos 4  ..  22 

Santa  Marta     ....  5  ..  27 

Albuera 3  . .  30 

Bad^oz 4  ..  34 

A  diligence,  bad  and  dear,  runs  this 
line  in  firom  24  to  30  h. :  the  posadas 
are  indifferent  throughout.  This  ex- 
tremely uninteresting  road  winds  over 
the  Sierra  Morena  chain^  Fewtravellers 
are  ever  met  with  save  the  migratory 
caravans,  which  bring  com  down  from 
Salamanca  and  take  back  salt  from 
Cadiz.  The  carts,  oxen,  men,  and  dogs 
are  made  for  artists,  and  their  nightly 
bivouacs  of  sheep,  folded  or  rather 
netted  in  enredelados  with  ropes  of 
espartOy  and  clustering  by  the  sides  of 
the  roads,  in  the  glens  and  underwood, 
are  very  nomade,  national,  and  pic- 
turesque. Ronquillo  rejoices  in  having 
given  birth  to  the  famous  Alcalde  of 
Charles  V.,  a  Spanish  Jeffries,  whose 


Draco  process  has  passed  into  a  pro- 
verb; he  convicted  and  executed  all 
culprits — the  old  for  what  they  had 
done,  the  young  ones  for  what  they 
would  have  done,  had  they  been  spared 
and  grown  up;  he  it  was  who  hung 
up  the  Bishop  of  Zamora  at  Simancas. 

Above  Santa  Olalla  is  a  ruined 
Moorish  castle,  whence  enjoy  a  pano» 
rama  of  mountains.  Soon  we  entar 
Estremadura  (see  Sect.  vii.).  At  Mor 
nasterio,  Posada  del  Montcmes,  is  thie 
point  where  the  waters  part,  descends 
ing  either  into  the  Gxiadiana  or  Guar 
dalquivir.  Fuente  de  Cantos  is  the 
birth-place  of  Zurbaran ;  the  lull  towns 
are  uninteresting  and  agricultural ;  the 
natives  seldom  stray  beyond  their  pa* 
rishes  or  are  visited  by  strangers.  Figs 
and  game  of  all  kinas  thrive  in  these 
ranges  of  the  Sierra  Morena. 

Albuera — Parador  del  offua — an  in* 
significant  hamlet  of  itself,  owes  its 
European  fame  to  its  "  glorious  field  of 
grief,"  and  the  murderous  conflict, 
May  16, 1811,  between  Soult  and  Be* 
resford.  Passing  the  bridge  the  town 
rises  m  front ;  the  battle  took  plaoe  on 
the  rid^e  to  the  1.  After  Massena^  in- 
stead of  driving  the  English  into  the- 
sea,  as  he  boasted,  was  himself  driven 
by  them  from  Santarem,  the  Duke  ad- 
vanced on  Estremadura  to  retake  Ba- 
dajoz ;  but  his  plans  were  marred,  by 
Mahy's  negligence  in  GkJUoia,  which 
forced  him  to  return.  Now,  rapid  eir 
pedition  was  everything,  as  the  fortress 
was  to  be  pounced  upon  before  the 
French  could  relieve  it,  yet  Bepesford^s 
"  unfortunate  delay "  gave  Philippon 
the  governor,  ample  time  to  provision 
and  strengthen  the  place,  besides  eu" 
abling  Soult  to  march  from  Seville  to 
its  relief.  Blake  and  Castanos,  glut- 
tons for  fighting,  then  persuaded  Be- 
resford  to  risk  a  general  action  when 
nothing  could  be  gained  by  a  victory, 
for  the  siege  was  virtually  raised,  while 
a  reverse  would  have  entirely  paralysed 
the  Duke,  and  neutralised  the  glories 
of  Torres  Vedras.  Beresford  had  only 
about  7000  English,  and,  although  he 
knew  the  ground  well,  "  occupied  it," 
says  STapier,  "  in  such  a  manner  as  tr 

K  8 


250 


ROUTE  12. — BATTLE  OF  ALBUERA. 


Sect.  II. 


render  defeat  almoBt  certain.*'  He  was 
the  only  man  in  the  army  who  did  not 
see  that  the  hill  to  the  rt.  was  his  really 
vulnerable  point,  and  where,  to  make 
bad  worse,  he  placed  the  Spaniards. 
Boult,  who  saw  the  blot,  attacked  and 
drove  them  back  without  difficulty,  and 
the  "  whole  position  was  raked  and  com- 
manded." Then  Houghton  led  up  the 
67th,  who  saved  the  day,  the  Spaiuards 
remaining,  ais  at  Barrosa,  "quiet  specta- 
tors." "  Out  of  1400  men  1050  were 
killed  and  wounded;"  "the  dead  lay  in 
their  ranks,  every  man  with  a  wound  in 
the  front."  Their  brave  leader  fell  at 
their  head,  cheering  them  on  to  the 
bayonet  charge,  which,  as  usual,  settled 
the  affair.  "  Then  1500  unwounded  men, 
the  remnant  of  7000,  stood,"  writes 
Napier,  "  triumphant  on  the  fatal  hilL" 
"  This  little  battalion,"  says  the  Duke, 
"  alone  held  its  ground  against  all  the 
French  colonnes  en  ma*se"  Soult  in 
vain  pushed  on  with  the  reserves  under 
Werle,  who  was  killed,  and  his  troops 
fled,  throwing  away  their  arms  (Vict,  et 
Oonq.  XX.  242)  :  "  Mais  que  pouvaient 
5000  bai'onettes  contre  un  ennemi 
quatrefois  plus  nombreux  ?" — for  thus 
1600  men  are  converted  into  20,000 
men  in  buckram  by  one  dash  of  a 
French  pen. 

Beresiord,  who  had  actually  ordered 
Halket  to  retreat,  was  saved,  says  If  a- 
pier  (xii  6),  by  Col.  Hardinge,  who,  on 
his  own  responsibility,  brought  up  Cole 
and  Abercrombie;  others,  however, 
and  Beresford's  dispatch,  assign  this 
merit  to  Cole,  who  in  fact  was  the  su- 
perior officer. 

Both  armies  bivouacked  on  the 
ground ;  and  had  Soult  the  next  day, 
with  his  15,000  Frenchmen,  ventured 
to  renew  the  attack  against  1600  Fng- 
Ush,  he  must  have  succeeded;  but, 
awed  by  their  bold  front,  he  retired, 
leaving  nearly  1000  wounded  to  his 
repulser's  mercy.  His  army,  even  in 
the  words  of  Belmas  (i.  184),  his  own 
author,  "se  d^banda  dans  le  plus 
affreux  d^ordre ;  le  moral  se  trouvait 
fort  affects."  The  French  real  loss  was 
between  8000  and  9000  men — even  they 
"    =»mit  2800 }  that  of  the  English  was 


4158,  of  the  Spaniards  1365.  The  Duke 
in  public  sluelded  Beresford,  whose 
great  capabilities  for  drilling  the  Por- 
tuguese he  justly  appreciated.  "  Ano- 
ther such  a  battle,  however,"  wrote  he. 
privately,  "would  ruin  us.  I  am 
working  hard  to  set  all  to  rights  again." 
On  the  21st  he  visited  the  field,  and 
in  a  few  weeks  offered  Soult  another 
chance  of  another  victory ,  which  the 
Marshal,  who  knew  that  a  better  man 
was  come  in,  politely  declined;  he, 
however,  claimed  the  "complete  vic- 
tory" as  his ;  and  now  his  non-succ^  is 
ascribed  to  the  numerical  superiority  of 
the  English.  Durosoir  (Guide,  244) 
simply  states  that  20,000  French  fought 
against  45,000  English  or  Spaniards  j 
which  Bory  de  St.  Vincent  (Guide,  109) 
makes  out  to  be  22,000  against  50,000, 
Soult's  real  forces  amounting  to  19,000 
foot  and  4000  horse ;  thus  history  is 
written  in  France;  for  the  truths  read 
Napier  (xii.  6),  and  his  unanswerable 
and  unanswered  replies  to  Beresford, 
vol.  vi.  andtheDuke's  'Dispatches'  (vol. 
vii.).  The  Portuguese  also  claim  the 
fighting  as  theirs :  "  apres  la  bataille 
d'Albuera,"  relates  Schepeler,  "j'en- 
tendis  moi-m^me  un  officier  Portugais 
dire,  'Les  Espagnols  se  sont  battus 
comme  des  lions^  les  Portugais  comme 
des  serpens,  mais  les  Anglais  Niente 
Niente  r  (not  at  all,)  dit-il  avec  d€- 
dain ;"  and  the  Spaniard  Blake,  in  his 
letter  thanking  the  Begency  for  making 
him  a  captain-general  for  his  services 
on  this  day,  never  even  alluded  to 
the  English ;  and  now-a-days,  all  the 
glory  is  claimed  by  Nosotros  ;  accord- 
ing to  Madoz  (i.  343),  the  English  di- 
vision was  saved  by  BaUasteros!  and 
this  signal  instance  of  Spanish  ineffi- 
ciency termed, "  Una  de  las  mas  dignas 
glorias  del  Pueblo  Espanol !  !  Becently, 
however,  a  sort  of  monument  has  been 
erected  in  which,  credite  posteri !  even 
the  names  of  the  English  generals  are 
inscribed — what  a  compliment  to  them 
— pari  passu,  with  those  of  the  Spa- 
niards! For  Badajoz,  see  Sect.  vii. 
Those  who  wish  to  avoid  Badajoz  can 
ride  in  one  long  day  direct  from  Albuera 
to  Merida,  about  10  L.  through  Lohon, 


JRonda  ^  Granada, 


(     251     ) 


SECTION  III. 

RONDA   AND    GRANADA. 


COK  TENTS. 

The  Serrania  de  Ronda ;  Character  of  the  Country  and  Natives ;  Smuggling. 


Page 

ROUTE  13.— SEVILLE  TO  GRANADA    254 

Osona;  Loja. 

ROUTE  14. — CORDOVA  TO  GRANADA  256 
ROUTE  15. — SEVILLE  TO  GRANADA.  258 

ROUTE  16.~ANDUJAR  TO  GRANADA  258 

Jaen. 

ROUTE  17. — SEVILLE  TO  RONDA.  .  .  260 
Moron ;  OlTera. 

ROUTE  18. — SEVILLE  TO  RONDA. .  .  260 

t^Zahara. 

ROUTE  19.— SEVILLE  TO  RONDA. .  .  260 

Ronda. 

ROUTE  20. — RONDA  TO  XEREZ  •  •  •  '263 
Grazalema;  Aroos. 

ROUTE  21. — RONDA  TO  GRANADA  •  •264 
Teba;  Anteqn^ra. 

ROUTE  22. — RONDA  TO  MALAGA.  .  .^66' 

ROUTE  23. — JRONDA  TO  GIRRALTAR.267 

Gaucin  ;  San  Boqne ;  Gibraltar ;  Trips  to 
Africa;  Centa;  Tangiersi  Tetoan. 

ROUTE  24. — GIBRALTAR  TO  MALAGA  260 
Fnengirola;  Monda. 

MALAGA • 283 

ROUTE  25. — MALAGA  TO  GRANADA. 288 

Velez  Malaga ;  Alhama. 


Paob 
GRANADA 291 

ExcnrsionB  near  Granada ;  Soto  de 
Roma;  Sierra  Nevada;  Quarries  of  San 
Juan;  Ultimo Susptro. 

ROUTE  26. — GRANADA  TO  ADRA     •  •329 
The  Alpi:Jarra8 ;  Laqjaron  ;  Beija. 

ROUTE  27.— ADRA  TO  MALAGA    •  •  •332 
ROUTE  26. — MOTRIL  TO  GRANADA    .332 

ROUTE  29. — ADRA  TO  CARTAGENA.  333 

Almeria ;  Cabo  de  Gata. 

ROUTE  30. — ALMERIA  TO  JAEN     •  •  335 
Macael ;  Orcera ;  Ul)eda ;  Baeza ;  Linares. 

SKELETON  TOURS  FPR  RIDERS. 

No^  1.. 


EcUa. 
Qsno^. 
RoBda. 
-Gancin. 

Gibraltar. 
Malaga. 
Alhama. 
Granada. 

No.  2. 

Granada. 

PaduL 

Laqjaron. 

UJUah. 

Be^a. 

Almeria. 
Adra. 
Motril. 
Durcal. 

The  last  of  these  two  Routes  is  well  suited 
for  geological  and  botanical  pursuits.  The 
early  summer  and  autumnal  months  are  tlie 
best  periods  for  these  excurtdous. 


The  Serrania  de  Ronda. 

The  jumble  of  mountains  of  which  Ronda  is  the  centre  and  capital,  lies  to  the 
1.  of  the  basin  of  the  Guadalquivir,  and  between  the  sea  and  the  kingdom  ' 


252  THE  SERRANIA  DE  KONDA.  Sect.  III. 

Granada.  The  districts  both  of  Ronda  and  Granada  are  an  Alpine  inter- 
change of  hill  and  valley :  although  only  separated  a  few  leagues  from  the 
plains  and  coasts  of  Seyille  and  Malaga,  the  difference  of  climate  and  geo- 
graphy is  most  striking ;  thus,  while  the  barley  harvests  are  over  in  the  tierra 
caliente  about  the  middle  of  May,  the  crops  in  the  Vega  of  Granada  are  green 
in  June.  These  mountains  form  the  barrier  which  divides  the  central  zone 
from  the  southern,  and  are  a  sort  of  ofiPshoot  from  the  great  Sierra  Morena 
chain.  Temperate  Ronda  is  consequently  much  resorted  to  in  the  summer 
by  the  parched  inhabitants  of  the  hotter  districts.  Ronda,  elevated  amidst 
its  mountains,  enjoys  at  once  the  fresh  breezes  from  the  sea  and  the  open 
country ;  the  air  is  pure,  rare,  and  bracing :  thus,  in  summer  the  mornings 
and  evenings  are  cool,  although  the  thermometer  in  the  shade  reaches  80°  at 
mid-day,  when  the  prudent  traveller,  invalid  or  not,  will  restore  his  bodily 
vigour  by  an  indoor  siesta. 

The  roads  are  steep,  rugged,  and  bad :  many  are  scarcely  practicable  even 
for  mules.  The  Spanianls  in  olden  times  never  wished  to  render  their 
Seville  frontier  very  accessible  to  the  Moors,  and  now  the  fear  of  facilitating 
an  invasion  from  Gibraltar  prevented  the  Bourbon  from  improving  the  com- 
munications. The  posadas  are  not  much  better  than  the  roads,  and  suit  the 
iron  frames,  and  oil  and  garlic  ilia  and  digestions  of  the  smugglers  and  robbers, 
who  delight,  like  the  chamois,  in  hard  fare  and  precipices.  The  traveller 
must  attend  to  the  provend  or  "  proband,"  as  the  great  authority  Captain 
Dalgetty  would  say :  a  cabaUero  visiting  these  hungry  localities  should  "  victual 
himself  with  vivers  "  for  three  days  at  least,  as  there  is  no  knowing  when  and 
where  he  may  get  a  tolerable  meal.  Ronda  and  Granada  arc  good  central 
spots  for  excursions.  Their  snowy  sierras  are  river  sources  for  the  tierras 
cMientes,  and  the  fruits  and  vegetation  in  the  fresh  hills  are  those  of  Switzer- 
land ;  thus  to  the  botanist  is  offered  a  range  from  the  hardiest  lichen  of  the 
Alps,  down  to  the  orange  and  sugar-cane  in  the  maritime  strips.  This  serrania 
is  best  seen  in  the  summer,  for  at  other  times  either  the  cold  is  piercing,  or 
the  rains  swell  the  torrents,  which  become  impassable. 

The  natural  strength  of  this  country  has  from  time  immemorial  suggested 
sites  for  "  hill-forts  "  (Hirt.  *  B.H.'  8),  the  type  of  which  is  clearly  Oriental ; 
perched  everywhere  like  eagles*  nests  on  the  heights,  and  exactly  where  a 
painter  would  have  placed  them  for  a  picture,  they  are  the  homes  of  brave 
highlanders,  to  whom  the  chase  and  smuggling  are  daily  bread.  The  French, 
during  the  Peninsular  war,  were  so  constantly  beaten  back  by  these  sharp- 
shooters that  they  became  very  shy  of  attacking  hornets*  nests  fuller  of  lead 
than  gold.  These  partisans  were  true  sons  of  the  Iberians  of  old,  those  Spanish 
cohorts  which  defeated  the  Romans  "  sub  jugo  montis,"  in  rocky  defiles,  the 
types  of  Roncesvalles  and  Bailen.  "  Adsuetoir  montibus  et  ad  concnrsandum 
inter  saxa  rupesque.'*  (Livy,  xxii.  18).  The  hills  were  their  **  country ;" 
for  Diod.  Siculus  has  anticipated  Rob  Roy's  designation  of  his  wild  domain. 
**  The  Gmrillero"  said  the  Duke,  "  is  the  only  useful  arm ;  he  is  better  ac- 
quainted with  his  trsuie  than  what  is  called  the  ofl&cer  of  the  regular  Spanish 
army;  he  knows  the  country  better,  and  is  better  known  to  the  inhabitants, 
and  above  all  he  has  no  pretension  to  military  character"  (Disp.  May  3d, 
1810).  The  raw  material  of  the  giierillero  was  in  all  times  the  bandit ;  robbery 
was  the  stock  on  which  this  patriotism  best  sprouted.  Compare  Livy,  xxviii. 
21  ;  Floras,  ii.  17,  15;  Strabo,  iii.  238,  with  the  modern  warwhoop,  "  Viva 
Fei^nando  y  vamos  robando."  The  system  of  smuggling  is  the  best  organised 
one  in  this  uncommercial  land,  where  the  contrabandista  corrects  the  blunder- 
ing chancellors  of  exchequers  and  custom-house  ofl&cers.  Spain  has  an 
enormous  frontier  to  watch,  and  is  a  land  in  which  an  honest  official  seldom 
rows ;  all  duties  above  25  per  cent,  everywhere  encourage  the  smuggler,  and 

■^e  the  fiscal  regulations  are  so  ingeniously  absurd,  that  the  fair  merchant  ia 


Ronda  ^  Granada,        the  smugglers  of  ronda.  253 

as  much  hampered  thereby,  as  the  irregular  trader  is  favoured;  the  operation  of 
prohibitory  and  excessive  duties  on  articles  which  people  must,  and  therefore 
will  have,  leads  to  breaches  of  the  peace,  injury  to  the  fair  dealer,  and  loss  to 
the  revenue ;  the  enormous  profits  tempt  the  ^asantry  from  honest  occupa- 
tions, and  render  those  idle,  predatory,  and  ferocious,  who  under  a  wiser  system 
would  remain  virtuous  and  industrious ;  the  fiscal  is  the  curse  of  Spain  and 
Spaniards,  it  fosters  a  body  of  reckless,  active  armed  men,  who  know  the  country 
well,  and  are  ready  for  any  outbreak.  They  emerge,  elements  of  disturb- 
ance, from  their  lairs,  whenever  the  political  horizon  darkens,  just  as  the  stormy 
petrel  comes  forth  from  his  hidden  home  to  usher  in  the  tempest.  Smuggling 
habituates  the  already  well-disposed  Spaniard  to  breaches  of  the  law,  to  a 
defiance  of  constituted  authority;  and  a  hatred  to  the  e;rcise,  which  pinches  his 
belly,  is  as  natural  to  the  heart  of  man,  as  a  dislike  to  duties  on  dress  is  to  the 
soul  of  woman.  In  Spain  the  evasion  is  not  deemed  a  heinous  crime,  or  a  moral 
offence,  but  barely  a  conventional  one ;  a  malum  prohibitum,  not  a  malum  per  se  ; 
those  who  defraud  the  custom-house  are  only  considered  as  attacking  an  odious 
administration  by  which  the  nation  at  large  is  robbed.  The  masses  in  Spain 
go  heart  and  mind  with  the  smuggler,  as  they  do  in  England  with  the  poacher. 
They  shield  a  bold  useful  man  who  supplies  them  with  a  good  article  at  a  fair 
price.  Nay,  some  of  the  mountain  curates,  whose  flock  are  all  in  that  line, 
just  deal  with  the  offence  as  a  pecado  venial,  and  readily  absoWe  those  who 
pay  for  a  very  little  detergent  holy  water. 

The  Spanish  smuggler,  so  far  nt>m  feeling  himself  to  be  a  criminal  or  de- 
graded, enjoys  in  his  country  tlie  brilliant  reputation  which  attends  daring 
personal  adventure,  among  a  people  proud  of  individual  prowess.  He  is  the 
model  of  the  popular  sculptor  and  artist — the  hero  of  the  stage,  its  Macheath  : 
he  comes  on  dressed  out  in  full  Majo  costume,  with  his  retajo  or  blunderbuss 
in  his  hand,  and  sings  the  well-known  Seguidilla:  "Yo  que  soy  contra- 
bandista,  yo  ho !  "  to  the  delight  of  the  old  and  young,  from  the  Straits  to  the 
Bidasoa,  tide-waiters  not  excepted.  In  his  real  character  he  is  welcome  in 
every  village ;  he  brings  sugar  and  gossip  for  the  curate,  money  and  cigars  for 
the  attorney,  ribbons  and  cottons  for  the  women.  He  is  magnificently  dressed, 
which  has  a  great  charm  for  all  Moro-Iberian  eyes,  whose  delight  is  Boato,  or 
external  ostentation.  He  is  bold  and  resolute.  "  None  but  the  brave  deserve 
the  fair.''  He  is  a  good  rider  and  shot,  knows  every  inch  of  the  intricate 
country,  wood  or  water,  hill  or  dale ;  he  swears  and  smokes  like  a  man,  and 
displays,  in  short,  all  those  daring,  active,  and  independent  personal  energies 
which  a  debasing  misgovemment  has  elsewhere  too  often  neutralized. 

The  expensive  preventive  service  of  Resguardos,  Carabineros,  &c.,  which  is 
everywhere  established  in  order  to  put  down  the  smuggler,  in  reality  rather 
assists  him,  than  otherwise.  The  empleados  of  all  kinds  receive  a  very  small 
salary,  and  that  is  often  ill-paid.  It  is  impossible  to  resist  the  temptation  of 
making  in  one  evening  more  than  a  six-months'  pay :  practically  the  custom- 
house officers  receive  their  emoluments  from  the  smuggler,  who  can  readily 
obtain  all  the  official  documents,  legal  certificates,  &c.,  on  false  returns  ;  again 
on  the  frontier,  where  armed  parties  are  stationed  to  intercept  smugglers,  a 
free  passage  is  bargained  for  with  those  very  guards  who  were  placed  there 
to  prevent  it ;  quis  custodes  custodiet  ?  The  commander,  when  duly  bribed, 
pretends  to  receive  information  of  smuggling  in  a  distant  quarter,  withdraws 
his  men,  and  thus  leaves  everything  open  for  "  running  the  cargo."  These 
gentry,  in  fact,  only  worry  inoffensive  travellers,  or,  in  a  word,  all  who  do  not 
pay  them  hush  money. 

The  traveller  near  Gibraltar  will  see  enough  of  the  Contrabandista  Fondeuo, 
and  a  fine  fellow  he  is:  a  cigar  and  a  bota  of  wine  open  his  heart  at  the  Venta 
fire-side,  and  he  likes  and  trusts  an  EDglishman,  not  that  he  wont  rob  him  *' 
in  want  of  cash.    The  Contrabandista  of  Eonda  is  one  of  the  most  pictures' 
of  his  numerous  class  in  a  locality  where  "  everybody  smuggles.'* 


254 


BOUTE  13. — OSUNA. 


Sect.  III. 


BocTE  13.— Seyilla  to  Granada,  bt 

OSUNA. 

There  are  many  wa^s  of  performing 
the  journey  from  Seville  to  Granada ; 
1st,  by  steam  to  Cadiz  and  Malaga,  and 
thence  by  Loja  in  the  diligence ;  2ndly, 
by  ridinff  across  the  wild  country 
through  Osuna  ;  Srdly,  by  going  in  the 
diligence  to  Cordova,  and  then  riding 
oyer  the  mountains  by  Alcald  la  Seal ; 
and  4thly,  which  perhaps  is  the  best 
for  ladies,  by  coach  to  Andujar,  and 
then  across  to  Jaen,  or  by  the  Madrid 
diligence  up  to  Bailen,  and  thence  tak- 
ing the  down  diligence  to  Granada. 

Gandol 3 

Arahal 4  ..  7 

LaPuebla 4  ..  11 

Osuna.     .    .     •    .    .    .  3  ..  14 

Pedrera    ...*..  3  ..  It 

Roda 2  ..  19 

Alameda 2  ..  21 

Va.  de  Arcfaidona  ...  4  ..  25 

LoJa 3  ..  28 

Va-deCacin 2  ..  30 

Granada 6  ..  36 

This  direct  road,  between  these  im- 
portant cities,  can  scarcely  be  called 
one ;  the  line  is,  however,  practicable 
for  carriages  during  tl^e  summer,  and 
is  taken  by  the  galera,  which  performs 
the  journey  in  6  days ;  in  England  a 
railroad  would  run  it  in  6  h.  There  is 
a  talk  of  one  to  Osuna,  Theposadas  are 
bad;  attend  to  the proyend.  Well-girt 
riders  may  do  the  journey  in  4  days. 

These  districts,  although  the  soil  is 
fertile  and  the  suns  genial,  have  been 
abandoned  by  the  Spaniard  since  the 
Moorish  conquest.  Corn-plains  have 
become  dehesas,  overgrown  with  pal- 
mitos,  and  the  lair  of  the  wolf  and 
robber;  those  travelling  with  ladies 
should  scarcely  venture  on  this  route 
without  an  escort. 

At  Gandul  is  a  Moorish  castle,  amid 
palms  and  orange-groves,  after  which 
a  wide  level  leads  to  Arahal,  where  the 
posada  del  Sol  is  tolerable ;  Moron  rises  on 
its  conical  hill  to  the  rt.  Osuna,  a  large 
town  of  1 5,000  souls,  hot  in  summer, 
but  healthy,  domineers  over  its  fer- 
tile plain.    Although  a  central  point 

is  left  in  a  most  scandalous  wantx>f 
"^on  communications,  and  nearly 


inaccessible  in  wet  weather  and  winter. 
Posada,  Caballo  Blanco,  and  del  Bosario, 
at  the«  outside,  coming  from  Seville. 
The  apex  of  the  triangular  hill  is 
crowned  by  a  castle  and  the  colegiata  ; 
the  streets  are  straggling;  the  build- 
ings are  whitened  with  cal  de  Moron ; 
the  carnation  pinks,  grown  in  pots 
imbedded  in  the  houses,  are  superb. 

Osuna  was  called  Gemina  Urban- 
«mm,  because  2  legions,  and  both  of 
Rome,  happened  to  be  quartered  there 
at  the  same  time.  The  Spanish  annalists 
prefer  deriving  the  name  from  Osuna, 
daughter  of  Hispan,  who  married 
Pyrrhus,  a  killer  of  boars ;  hence  the 
arms  of  the  city,  a  castle  with  2  boars 
chained  to  a  window.  The  early  coins 
found  here  are  numerous  and  curious 
(T^orez,  *  M.*  ii.  625).  Osuna  was 
taken  from  the  Moors  in  1240 ;  Philip 
II.  granted  it  to  Pedro  Giron,  whom 
Francois  I.  used  to  call  Le  bel  Espagnol, 
For  thifi  noble  family  (doubtless  de- 
scendants of  the  fabulous  Geryon)  con- 
sult the  '  Compendio  de  los  Girones,' 
Jer«.  Gudiel,  Alcala,  1577.  TheGirons 
became  the  true  patrons  of  Osuna; 
thus  Juan  Tellez,  in  1534,  founded  the 
church,  and  his  son,  in  1549,  the  col- 
lege. Ajcend  to  the  castle:  the 
panorama  is  extensive.  The  colegiata, 
built  in  1534,  in  the  mixed  Gothic 
and  cinque-cento  style,was  converted 
by  Soult  into  a  citadel  and  magazine, 
for,  as  in  olden  times,  Osuna  is  an  im- 
portant military  position,  from  its  fine 
spring,  water  being  wanting  in  the 
plain8(Hirt.*B.H.'41).  TheMarshaVs 
soldiers  amused  themselves  with  mu-< 
tilating  the  terra  cotta  sacred  subjects 
over  the  cinque-cento  portal,  and  with 
firing  at  the  grand  Crucifixion  by 
Ribera,  which  was  afterwards  restored 
by  Joaquin  Cortes.  There  also  are 
other  4  gloomy  pictures  by  Ribera  in 
the  Betc&lo,  which  were  brought  from, 
Naples  by  the  celebrated  Viceroy  Duke. 
The  marbles  of  the  pavement  are 
fine;  Soult  carried  off  more  than  5 
cwt.  of  ancient  church  plate ;  a  gilt  Cor- 
dovan cup  has  alone  escaped.  Visit 
the  underground  portions  of  this  ch. 
The  Patio  del  Seputcro  is  in  Berruguete 
taste.  In  the  Sacristia  is  a  Christ,  by 
Morales.    The  vaults  are  supported  by 


Eonda^  Granada.  boute  13. — loja. 


255 


Moorish  arches.  The  mortal  remains 
of  the  Girons  lie  in  a  labyrinth  of 
sepulchral  passages.  The  presentDuke, 
12th  of  his  family,  scarcely  attends 
sufficiently  to  the  decorous  condition 
of  the  ashes  of  his  ancestors. 

Leaving  Osuna,  2  short  L.  are  AgiMs 
dalces,  whose  sweet  waters  create  an 
oasis  in  these  aromatic  dehesas,  Estepa 
lies' to  the  1.  about  2  L.  from  Roda^  on 
the  road  to  Ecija'  some  traces  of 
Astapa  are  yet  visible  on  the  hills  of 
Camorra  and  CamorrUlo,  This  guer- 
riUero  hill-fort  rivalled  Numantia,  and 
when  besieged  by  the  Romans,  547 
u.  c,  its  inhabitants  destroved  them- 
selves, their  wives  and  chilaren,  on  a 
funeral  pile,  rather  than  surrender 
(Livy,  xxviii.  23).  For  the  old  coin- 
age see  Florez,  *  M .'  ii.  624. 

Moda  is,  as  its  Arabic  name  Rauda 
implies,  a  garden  of  roses  fiohi;  the 
posada  is  clean :  between  Fedrera  and 
Venta  de  Archidona  are  the  immemorial 
robber  haunts,  la  Va,  de  Cohalea  and  el 
cortijo  de  CerezcUf  where  Jose  Maria  so 
long  ruled;  indeed  this  broken  and 
intricate  country  is  made  for  ladrones 
and  beasts  of  prey;  the  aromatic 
underwood  and  wild  evergreen  oaks 
are  scattered  in  a  park-like  manner  all 
the  way  between  usiom  and  Loja. 

Alameda  lies  amiost  its  olives  and 
corn-fields  in  the  bottom  of  a  valley ; 
the  Posada  bad  ;  the  shooting  is  excel- 
lent. Passing  on  to  the  rt.  in  the  plain 
is  the  salt  lake  of  Antequera,  which 
glitters  like  a  mirror ;  the  city  and  the 
Lovers'  Rock  lie  beyoad  (see  Rte.  21). 
A  wild  iniquitous  cross  road  com- 
municates between  Antequera  and  An- 
dujar,  19  L.  through  Benamegi  Cahra 
and  Porcana  ;  and  another  equally  cut- 
throat track  runs  from  Antequera  to 
Ecija,  12  i  L.  through  La  Poda.  After 
quitting  the  Va.  de  Archidona  by  all 
means  go  a  little  out  of  the  way  to  the 
rt.,  and  pass  through  Archidona ;  after 
ascending  the  steep  Puerto  del  Pey,  we 
reach  Loja,  which  is,  as  its  Arabic  name 
implies,  the  "  Guardian,"  the  advanced 
sentinel  of  the  Vega  of  Granada ;  the 
opening  view  is  most  picturesque.  The 
castle  towers  from  a  rock  in  the  middle 
of  the  town ;  below  runs  the  Genii, 
crossed  by  a  Moorish  bridge,  while  be- 


yond rises  the  Sierra  Nevada,  with  its 
diadem  of  snow. 

Inns :  The  best,  de  los  Angeles,  is  but 
bad  in  spite  of  the  patronage  of  angels! 
be  content  therefore,  ye  mortals — ditto 
Jesiis  Nazareno  and  Jos€.  Loja  is  rapidly 
improving;  pop.  nearly  14,000;  with 
a  new  posada  and  theatre.  This 
place,  being  the  key  to  Granada,  was 
once  of  great  importance.  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella  b^ieged  it  in  1488, 
and  took  it  after  34  days,  very  much 
by  the  aid  of  the  English  archers 
under  Lord  Rivers.  Washington  Irv- 
ing, in  his  charming  '  Chronicle  of  the 
Conquest  of  Granada'  (which  here 
should  be  read),  gives  a  "  romantic  ** 
account  of  this  affair  (ch.  xxxix.). 
**  Lord  Rivers  was  the  first  to  penetrate 
the  suburbs,  and  was  severely  wounded. 
His  majesty  visited  the  tent  of  the 
English  earl,  and  consoled  him  for  the 
loss  of  his  teeth  by  the  consideration 
that  he  might  otherwise  have  been  de- 
prived of  them  by  natural  decay ; 
whereas  the  lack  of  them  would  now 
be  esteemed  a  beauty  rather  than  a 
defect,  serving  as  a  trophy  of  the 
glorious  cause  in  which  he  had  been 
engaged."  The  earl  replied  that  **  he 
gave  thanks  to  God  and  to  the  Holy 
Virgin  for  being  thus  honoured  by  a 
visit  from  the  most  potent  king  in 
Christendom;  that  he  accepted  with 
all  gratitude  his  gracious  consolation 
for  the  loss  he  had  sustained,  though 
he  held  it  little  to  lose  two  teeth  in  the 
service  of  God,  who  had  given  him 
all."  But  different  is  the  historical 
account  of  an  eye-witness.  Peter 
Martyr,  whose  authentic  epistles  none 
should  fail  to  peruse  in  these  localities 
(Lett.  Ixii.  Elzevir  ed.) :  Ab  orbe  venit 
Britano  juvenis,  animo,  generc,  divitiis, 
et  titulo  pollens,  Scalse  comes  (Lord 
Scales)  cum  pulcherrimIL  familiarum 
patrio  more  arcubus  et  pharetris  arma- 
torum  caterv&.  Is  post  fortia  testibus 
Hispanis  facta,  dum  per  scalas  murum 
inter  consortes  scutatus  ascenderet, 
saxo  percussus  ad  tentoria  deportatur 
exanimis.  Chirurgorum  cura  exac- 
tissima  vitam  servat,  sed  anterioribus 
ictu  saxi  dentibus  amissis.  Reginam 
ubi  primum  extentorio  licuit  exire,qusp 
nuperadvenerat,  it  salutatum :  doler 


256 


ROUTE  14. — CORDOVA  TO  GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


oris  foeditatem  Reginse  ad  ablatos 
dentes,  juvenis  alludens,  *  Christo  qui 
totam  earn  fabricayerat  domnm,  fene- 
stellam  se  fecisse,  qua  facilius  qaod 
intus  latent  inspici  possit/  lepide  re- 
spondit:  placoit  Regibus  argute  dic- 
tum, atque  honestis  ilium  muneribus 
donatum  ad  natale  solum  in  Britanniam 
remiserunt."  Ferdinand  gave  to  Loja 
for  arms,  guks  a  castle  or,  and  a  bridge 
argent,  with  the  device  "  Flor  entre 
Espinasr 

It  was  to  Loja  that  Gonzalo  de  Cor- 
dova, el  Gran  Capitan,  and  Spain's 
almost  only  real  Great  Captain,  retired 
from  the  suspicions  of  the  ungrateful 
Ferdinand,  who,  like  an  eastern  khalif 
and  a  modem  junta,  dreaded  a  too  vic- 
torious servant.  Yet  here  such  was  the 
prestige  of  his  influence  and  career,that, 
like  Wallestein,  his  mere  name  im- 
provised armies  in  the  hour  of  need  of 
his  master.  'He  died  at  Granada  of  a 
quartan  fever,  Dec.  2nd,  1515.  Mr.  Pres- 
cott  has  given  us  a  correct  sketch  of 
his  life  and  character  in  his  admirable 
*  Ferdinand  and  Isabella'  (see  also  our 
paper  in  the  *  Quar.  Rev.'  cxxvii.  51). 
Charles  V.,  in  1526,  employed  Heman 
Perez  del  Pulgar  to  write  a  chronicle 
of  his  former  chief  the  great  Captain. 
Seville,  1527.  It  is  rare,  but  was  re- 
printed at  Madrid  in  1834,  by  M.  de 
la  Rosa,  with  a  poor  life  and  notes. 
There  is  also  ft  biography  by  the  com- 
monplace Quintana.  The  old  *  Coronica 
del  Gran  Capitan*  folio,  Alcala  de  He- 
nares,  1584,  although  interesting  as  a 
romance,  is,  as  Cervantes  says  (speak- 
ing through  the  Curate),  a  true  history: 
the  French  work  by  Florian  is  worse 
than  worthless  in  this  respect.  It  was 
to  Loja  also  in  our  days  that  Narvaez 
retired  when  out  of  favour  with 
Christina.  The  road  to  Granada, 
neglected  for  centuries,  has  at  last  been 
put  in  order. 

Between  Loja  and  Lachar  are  two 
wretched  ventas :  La  del  Pulgar  might 
better  be  called  de  las  Fulgasy  from  its 
host  of  vermin.  Passing  a  mountain 
torrent,  is  la  Va,  de  Cacin,  and  then 
opens  the  celebrated  Vega  of  Granada 
like  the  promised  land. 


RoiTTE  14. — Seville  to  Granada, 
BY  Cordova. 

By  far  the  best  plan  is  to  go  to  Cor- 
dova in  the  diligence  in  about  22 
hours,  and  then  hire  horses  and  ride 
over  the  mountains.  The  roads  are 
very  bad,  the  inns  no  better ;  jret  hy 
attending  to  the  provend  the  thing  is 
to  be  endured.  It  has  been  done  in 
2  days,  but  3  are  better.  The  scenery 
is  alpine  and  full  of  picturesque  castles 
and  localities,  celebrated  in  Moro-His- 
pano  foray. 

Cordova  to  Granada. 


4 

2* 

..     6* 

2 

..     8* 

6 

..    14* 

3 

..    17* 

2 

..  19* 

3 

..  22* 

Santa  Crucita . 
Castro  del  Rio 
Baena  .  .  . 
AlcaU  la  Real 
Puerto  Lope  . 
I>inos  Paente  . 
Qranada      •    . 


After  passing  over  tiresome  dehesas 
and  plains,  producing  some  of  the 
finest  wheat  m  the  world,  ascending 
and  descending  Cuestasy  crossing  and 
recrossing  the  Guadajoz,  we  reach 
Castro  del  BiOy  built  on  an  eminence, 
and  hence  pass  through  wild  districts 
studded  with  eagles*  nest  villages  and 
atalayas,  to  Baena]  a  ride  of  some  11  h. 

Baena,  with  a  poor  but  dear  posada, 
is  one  of  the  most  considerable  central 
towns  of  these  districts:  Pop.  above 
11,000.  The  posada  is  bad.  The  old 
town  was  built  on  the  hill  above, 
which  is  crowned  with  a  castle,  once 
the  property  of  the  great  Captain.  The 
modem  one  below  has  a  fair  plaza.  The 
Santa  Maria  has  some  old  inscriptions 
and  a  good  silver  Custodia,  The  site 
of  the  Roman  town  is  still  marked,  and 
antiquities  are  constantly  found  and 
destroyed :  in  1833  a  sepulchre  was  dis- 
covered, said  to  be  that  of  the  families 
of  Pompey  and  Gracchus. 

The  climate,  olives,  com,  water,  and 
fruits  are  delicious  :  the  river  Marbella 
produces  a  sort  of  tench  called  here 
arrigueloy  which  the  naturalist  should 
examine  and  eat.  The  mineralogy  and 
botanj  deserve  attention.  Near  Baena 
a  curious  yellow  orchis  abounds.  The 
armorial  bearings  of  the  town  are  five 


JRonda  ^  Granada,    Route  14. — oordova  to  granada. 


257 


Moors*  heads,  which  were  cut  off  by 
five  Spaniards  of  Baena,  after  a  despe- 
rate combat. 

From  Baena  the  direct  road  runs 
to  Antequera,  12  L.  ;  through  Cabra 
(iBgabrum,  Agabra,  Punice — a  fort),  3 
L.,  which  is  a  rich  agricultural  town. 
Pop.  under  9,000.  It  once  was  the  see 
of  a  bishop :  the  tortuous  town  is  built 
under  two  hills.  The  tower  of  JBomenage 
of  the  old  castle  remains :  the  Plaza, 
although  irregular,  is  striking;  and 
the  streets  on  the  level  are  handsome 
and  cleansed  with  running  water. 
There  is  a  curious  old  stone  used  for 
the  font  in  San  Juan.  The  parish  ch. 
de  la  Ascencion  was  a  mosque,  and  has 
been  badly  altered  inside  after  the 
model  of  the  cathedral  of  Cordova. 
The  pasos  of  the  Ermita  Sa.  Ana  are 
worth  notice,  especially  the  silver 
Saviour,  large  as  life,  and  a  beautiful 
Virgin  deja  Soledady  ascribed  to  Juan 
de  Mena.  The  town  is  surrounded  with 
gardens,  which  produce  excellent  fruits 
and  vegetables,  from  the  abundance  of 
water.  The  wines  made  in  the  Pago 
de  Rio  frio  vie  with  those  of  Montilla. 
The  geologist  should  examine  an  ex- 
tinct crater  at  Los  Hbyones,  and  the 
curious  cave  de  Jarcas.  The  reader  of 
Don  Quixote  (ii.  14)  may  inquire  for 
the  celebrated  Cimaf  into  which  the 
Cahallero  del  Bosque  leapt.  Lucena, 
Erigena,  is  another  of  these  large  towns 
which  no  one  visits.  Pop.  under  1 7,000. 
Like  Cabra,  it  also  is  placed  under  two 
hills,  with  the  best-built  streets  on  the 
level.  The  San  Mateo  is  a  fine  church, 
1498,  with  an  extravagant  new  Sagrario, 
1772  :  it  abounds  in  fruits  of  a  rich 
well-irrigated  soil  under  a  glorious 
sun.  The  apricots  are  renowned.  Here, 
April  21st,  1483,  the  Conde  de  Cabra 
took  Boabdil,  el  Peg  chico  de  Granada, 
a  prisoner.  Consult  Afemorias  de  Lucena, 
Cardenas,  4to.,  Ecija,  1777.  Three  L. 
on  is  Benamegi,  near  the  Xenil,  a  town 
of  bandit  and  robber  ill-fame.  Hence, 
by  dehesas  and  despoplados,  4  L.  to  An- 
teqjtera  (see  R.  21). 

Continuing  R.  12  and  leaving  Baena, 
although  it  is  only  24  m.  to  Alcala  la 
Peal,  it  is  a  7  to  8  hours'  ride :  the  old 
posid  I  bad  and  dear :  the  posada  S. 
Anton,  on  the  Alameda,  is  better  spoken 


of.  The  very  picturesque  town,  with  its 
bold  towers,  rises  on  a  conical  hill ;  the 
streets  are  steep,  the  Alameda  is  charm- 
ing. This  was  once  the  stronghold  of 
the  Alcaide  Ibn  Zaide :  being  taken,  in 
1340,  by  Alonso  XI.  in  person,  it  ob- 
tained the  epithet  Real.  The  beacon- 
tower  La  Mota,  el  Parol,  the  light  to 
guide  prisoners  escaping  from  the 
Moors,  was  erected  by  the  Conde  de 
Tendilla,  the  first  governor  of  the 
Alhambra.  Here,  Jan.  28th,  1810,  Se- 
bastian! came  up  with  the  runaways 
from  Ocana  and  again  routed  Areizaga 
and  Freire,  who  fled,  without  even 
making  a  show  of  defence,  to  Murcia, 
abandoning  guns,  baggage,  and  every- 
thing. A  mountian  defile  to  the  1.  leads 
to  Jaen. 

The  road  to  Granada  continues 
through  splendid  mountain  scenery  and 
strong  defiles,  where  Freire,  however, 
made  no  stand.  Tllora  lies  to  the  rt.  on  a 
hill.  Soon  the  glorious  Sierra  Nevada  is 
seen  through  an  opening  in  the  hills : 
and,  after  passing  4;he  Venta  del  Puerto 
the  Vega  expands  to  the  view.  It  was 
on  the  bridge  of  Pinos,  which  is  soon 
crossed,  that  Columbus  was  stopped,  in 
Feb.  1492,  bv  a  messenger  from  Isa- 
bella, who  inmrmed  him  that  she  would 
espouse  his  scheme  of  discovery.  He 
had  retired  in  disgust  at  the  delays  and 
disappointments  which  he  had  met 
with  in  the  court  of  the  cold  cautious 
Ferdinand,  until  his  more  generous 
queen,  urged  by  the  good  prior  of  Palos, 
at  last  came  forward.  Thus  Columbus 
was  recalled,  and  she  was  rewarded 
with  a  new  world.  The  offer  was  made 
in  the  very  nick  of  time,  and  even  then 
he  hesitated  to  replunge  into  the  heart- 
sickening  intrigues  of  the  Spanish 
court.  Had  he  proceeded  on  his 
journey  to  our  Henry  VII.,  that  saga- 
cious monarch,  ever  alive  to  mari- 
time expeditions,  would  have  listened 
at  once  to  his  proposals,  and  S.  America 
would  have  been  English,  Protestant, 
free,  and  rich,  instead  of  Papist,  bigoted, 
beggarly,  and  bloodthirsty:  on  such 
tribes  do  the  destinies  of  nations  turn. 

The  wooded  Soto  de  Roma,  the  Duke 
of  Wellington's  estate,  lies  to  the  rt. : 
to  the  1.  is  the  hill  of  Elvira  (see  p.  325), 
one  of  the  advanced  guards  of  Granada, 


258 


EOUTES  15,  16. — ^JAEN — ^EL  SANTO  ROSTRO. 


Sect.  III. 


Route  15. — Seville  to  Granada 
BT  Jaen. 

Go  in  the  diligence  to  Andujar  (see 
B.  9),  and  thence  by  a  bad  but  car- 
riageable road  to  Jaen,  6  L. ;  or  go  on 
to  Bailen,  and  then  take  the  down 
diligence  to  Jaen.  6  L.  The  Guadal- 
quivir  is  passed  by  a  suspension  bridge 
near  Men^bar.  Both  these  routes  are 
uninteresting,  and  occasionally  robber- 
infested  ;  they  are  carried  over  treeless 
plains,  cold  and  wind-blown  in  winter, 
calcined  and  dusty  in  summer.  The 
road  from  Jaen  to  Bailen  was  com- 
menced in  1831. 


Route  16. — Andujar  to  Granada. 


Mengibar 2 

Jaen 4 

Va.  del  Chaval      ...  4 

Campillo  de  Areoas*  .     .  3 

Segri 3 

Mituganda^ 2 

Granada    * 4 


6 

10 
13 
16 
18 
22 


Six  mortally  wearisome  L.  lead  to 
Jaen ;  the  best  inn  is  that  of  the  dili- 
gence, El  Cafk  Nuevo ;  the  other  is  El 
Santo  EostrOf  Calk  de  Matadero,  "  the 
Holy  Face  in  Butcher-street." 

Jaen,  Jayy^n,  was  a  little  independ- 
ent kingdom  under  the  Moors,  con- 
sisting of  268  square  L.  The  capital — 
the  Roman  Auringis,  Giennium  — 
stands  like  a  dentine!  at  the  gorge  of 
the  mountain  approach  to  Granada. 
Gien  in  Arabic  is  said  to  signify  ferti- 
lity ;  and  the  town  was  also  called 
Jayyenu-1-harir,  "  Jaen  of  the  Silk." 
Its  position  is  most  picturesque,  lying 
under  a  castle-crowned  hill ;  the  long 
lines  of  Moorish  walls  and  towers  creep 
up  the  irregular  slopes,  and  the  artist 
will  do  well  to  follow  the  circuit.  The 
jumble  of  mountains,  and  those  called 
Jahalcuz,  La  Fandera,  and  El  del  Viento, 
almost  deprive  the  city  of  sun  in  the 
wintry  days.  These  are  the  local  ba- 
rometers. Cucmdo  Jabalcuz  tiene  capuz 
y  La  Pondera  montera,  Llovera  aunque 
Dios  no  quiera.  Near  the  Jabalcuz  are 
some  mineral  baths   called  de  Jerez: 


the  walk  there  is  delightful,  the  botany 
very  rich.  Jaen  has  been  compared  to 
a  dragon,  a  watchful  Cerberus.  It  is  a 
poor  place,  amid  plenty:  pop.  17,000, 
and  principally  hardworking  agricul- 
turists. These  boors,  termed  Fastoria, 
are  so  dull  that/a«n  is  called  the  Galicia 
of  Andalusia.  The  fruit-gardens  out- 
side the  town  are  charming,  freshened 
and  fertilised  by  living  waters  which 
gush  everywhere  from  the  rocks.  Jaen 
is,  however,  very  wind-blown  in  winter. 

The  place  surrendered  itself  to  St. 
Ferdinand  in  1246;  as  Ibnu-l-ahmar, 
"  the  Red  Man,"  a  native  of  Arjona,who 
had  raised  himself  from  the  lowest 
classes,  to  be  its  ruler,  being  at  variance 
with  the  Moorish  king  of  Seville,  was 
unable  single-handed  to  oppose  the 
Christians,  and  in  self-defence  declared 
himself  their  vassal. 

Jaen  is  a  bishopric  conjointly  with 
Baeza,    The  cathedral  is  built  after  the 
style  of  its  metropolitan  at  Granada 
and  Malaga.     The  old  mos(|ue  was 
pulled  down  in   1492,  and    m   1532 
Pedro  de  Valdelvira  introduced   the 
Grseco-Romano  style  ;  the  plan  is  noble 
and  regular.    There  are  4  entrances : 
the  W.  fa9ade  stands  between  two  fine 
towers;    the    Corinthian    interior   is 
all  glare,  whitewash,  and  looks  like 
a  Pagan  temple.     The  Sacristia  and 
Sagrario  are  elegant:   of  the  church 
plate,  notice  the  silver  Custodia^  by 
Juan  Ruiz,    and    the  statue  of  San 
Eufrasio ;  but  the  grand  relic  is  Za 
Santa  Faz,  El  Santo  Sudario,  or,  as  it  is 
commonly  called.  El  Santo  Bostro,  the 
Holy  Face  of  our  Saviour,  as  impressed 
on  the  handkerchief  of  Santa  Veronica^ 
which  this  saint  is  said  to  have  lent  to 
the  suffering  Saviour  on  the  road  to 
Calvary;  but  the  very  name,  verum 
icon — the  true  portrait — denounces  the 
pious  ex  post  facto  fraud.    Hence  some 
say  her  name  was  Berenice ;  be  this  as 
it  may,  the  cambric,  like  a  copper-plate, 
has  given  off  many  impressions  for 
true  believers,  by  which   many  souls 
have  been  saved  and  the  true  church 
much  enriched,  so  many  proo/s,  in  fact, 
that  the  existence  of  "  eleven  iJiousand 
virgins,"  all  Veronicas,  may  be  inferred. 
Mere  connoisseurs  when  they  look  at 
this  fetich  fright  must  regret  that  no 


Ronda  ^  Granada, 


ROUTE  16. — JAEN. 


259 


pope,  no  Leo  X.,  ever  decreed   the 
multiplication  of  the  divine  Saviours  of 
Kaphael.  This  particular  duplicate  was 
brought  to  Jaen  a.d.  44,  by  San  Eu- 
frasio,  a  disciple  of  Santiagos :  other 
authors  contend  that  it  was  San  Aten- 
drio,  the  bishop  of  Jaen,  who  rode 
the  devil    pick-o'-back  to  Rome    to 
torture  the  pope  that  carried  back  the 
"  Holy  Face."    See  Feijoo,  Cart.  Erud. 
i.  24 ;  iii.  21  ;  andSouthey's  irreverent 
ballad.    It  was  borne  by  St.  Ferdinand 
at  the  head  of  his  armies  all  over  Jaen, 
and  is  copied  in  small  silver  medallions, 
niellos,  in  black  and  white,  which  are 
worn  by  the  peasants  and  robbers  as 
amulets.    Jaen,  indeed,  is  a  modem 
Tripoli,  and  its  relic  is  the  r»  rev  h»v 
vc^tftivrn  of  the  ancients.   It  is  shown  to 
great  personages  privately,  and  to  the 
public  on  Good  Friday  and  the  Ascen- 
sion of  the  Vir^n ;  the  lower  classes 
rely  upon  it  in  all  calamities^et  it  could 
not  save  them  from  the  French,  by 
whom  under  Cassagne  the  town,  in  July 
1808,  was  so  sacked  and  the  women  and 
babes  so  butchered,  that  the  man  and  his 
men  must  have  reasoned  like  Dante's 
Devil    in  the  *  Inferno  *   (xxi.    48) : 
"  Qui  non  ha  luogo  il  Santo  Rostro ;" 
possibly    the    Gaul     questioned    its 
genuineness,  for  certainly  Lucca  boasts 
a  duplicate,  called  "  II  Volto  Santo." 
Those  curious  as  to  their  authenticity 
may  consult  '  Diacursos  de  las  Efigies  y 
verdaderos  retratoa  non  manufactos  del 
S.into    RoatrOy    Juan    de  Acuna    del 
Adarve,  Villanueva,  fol.    1637 ;    also 
read*  the    Tradicion,     hj   Bartolom^ 
Isquierdo.    Now-a-days  m  the  mania 
of  civilisation,  ancient  Jaen  itself  is 
shaken,  and  every  day  the  past  disap- 
pears to  make  place  for  the  modern 
and  common-place.    If  the  portal  of 
San  Miguel  by  Valdelvira  still  exist 
visit  it,  and  also  the  plateresque  yfltar 
Mayor  at  La  Merced ;  the  fine  palace 
of  the  Viilar  Don  Parihs ;  the  portal  of 
that  of  Saarez  de  la  Fuente  el  Sauce, 
and  the  house  de  los  Masones,     Mean- 
time buU-fighting  flourishes  and  a  new 
Plaza    de    Toroa    was  built    in     1847 
for  8000  persons. 

Visit  at  all  events  the  Alameda  with 
its  alpine  view,  and  walk  through  the 
tortuous  old  town  to  the  Fuente  de  Mag^ 


dalena,  which  bursts  from  a  rock  as  if 
struck  by  the  wand  of  Moses.  There 
is  a  sort  of  Museo  provincial  in  the  ex 
jesuitas,  with  some  hundred  bad  pictures. 
It  was  at  Jaen  that  Ferdinand  IV. 
died  suddenly,  in  his  25th  year,  on  Sept« 
7, 1312,  exactly  30  days  after  he  was 
summoned  to  appear  before  the  tribunal 
of  God  by  the  two  brothers  Pedro  and 
Juan  Carvajal,  of  Martos,  when  on  their 
way  to  execution  by  the  king's  orders 
and  without  sufficient  evidence  of  their 
guilt.  Hence  Ferdinand,  who  died 
on  the  appointed  day,  is  called  El 
Emplazado,  "  the  cited."  Mariana 
(xv.  ii.)  compares  his  death  to  those 
of  Philippe  le  Bel,  and  Clement  V.  the 
French  pope,  who  were  cited  by  the 
templar,  De  Molay,  to  appear  before 
God  within  a  year  and  a  day  to  account 
for  their  perfidy,  rapine,  and  butchery ; 
they  both  died  at  the  exact  period  of 
their  summons. 

For  history,  legends,  and  antiquities, 
consult  *  Belacion  de  Jaen/  Gasp.  Sal- 
cedo  Aguirre,  8vo.,  Jaen,  1614 ;  *  JSTw- 
toria  Ecclesiastica*  Francisco  de  Rus 
de  la  Paerta,  4to.,  Jaen,  1634 ;  *■  Santos 
y  Santuarios,*  Francisco  de  Vilches,  fol. 
Madrid,  1653 ;  *  ffistoria  de  Jaen,*  Bar- 
tolome  Ximenez,  Paton,  1628— the  real 
author  was  one  Petrus  Ordonez  de  Ze- 
vallos ;  *  Anales  Ecclesiasticos,*  Martin  de 
Ximena  Jurado,  Madrid,  1654 — a  very 
curious  book ;  *  Retrato  de  Jaen,*  Josef 
Martinez  de  Mazas,  4to.,  Jaen,  1794. 

The  highly  picturesque  road  to  Gra- 
nada was  opened  in  1828.  The  first 
portion  runs  through  a  well-watered 
valley  full  of  figs,  apricots,  and  pome- 
granates. The  gorge  then  becomes 
wilder  and  narrower,  and  is  carried 
through  the  Puerto  de  Arenas,  the  sandy 
gate  of  Granada ;  formerly  carriages 
went  bv  the  ramblas,  river  beds,  an  arch 
Spanish  practice,  but  rather  an  incon- 
venient one,  so  a  road  was  engineered  at 
last  by  one  Esteban,  and  the  work  is 
excellent.  Many  new  posadas  have  been 
set  up  on  this  road  at  the  places  where 
the  ailigence  changes  horses.  Those 
who  are  riding  may  put  up  either  at 
miserable  Campillo,  or  go  on  1^  L.  to 
Campotetjar ;  and  if  they  wish  to  quit 
the  dusty  road,  may  turn  off  to  the  rt. 
at  a  cortijo,  }  of  a  L.  from  Campillo  to 


260 


ROUTES  17,  18,  19. — SEVILLE  TO  RONDA. 


Sect.  III. 


Benalua  1  L.,  thence  to  Colmara  4  L., 
and  so  on  2  L.  to  Granada,  a  lonely 
but  beautiful  ride. 


Route  17. — Seville  to  Ronda, 
^    BY  Olyeba, 

Gandul 3 

Arahal 4  ..  f 

Moron 2  . .  9 

Zafnunugon      .     •    •     •  &  . .  11 

Olvera 2  . .  1 3 

Setenll 2  ..  16 

Ronda 2  . .  17 

For  Gandul  and  Arahal  sec  p.  254. 
It  is  best  to  push  on  the  first  night  to 
Moron,  Arumi,  pop.  9000,  built  on  irre- 
gular acclivities,  with  the  remains  of 
Its  once  almost  impregnable  Castle  to 
the  E.  erected  by  the  Moors  on  Roman 
foundations ;  it  was  blown  up  by  the 
retreating  French.  The  chalk,  Cal  de 
Moron,  makes  the  fatal  whitewash,  by 
which  so  much  mediseval  and  Moorish 
decoration  has  been  obliterated.  Not 
that,  as  old  Feltham  said  of  the  Dutch, 
Spaniards  are  more  careful  of  their 
house-fronts  than  of  their  bodies,  or 
of  their  bodies  than  of  their  souls. 
The  tortas  de  Moron  have  a  Peninsular 
celebrity. 

In  the  Sierra  de  Laita  are  remains 
of  old  silver-mines,  and  load-stones 
and  emeralds  are  found  here.  Moron 
is  a  notorious  den  of  thieves.  Even 
the  women,  according  to  Rocca,  op- 
posed the  French,  while  the  masculine 
gender  of  Andalucia  yielded ;  these  are 
the  worthy  mothers  of  the  noble  moun- 
taineers into  whose  fastnesses  we  now 
enter.  Olvera  rivals  Moron  in  noto- 
riety of  misrule :  pop.  6000.  It  is  the 
refuge  of  the  man  of  blood ;  hence  the 
proverb,  "  Mata  al  hombre  y  vete  d 
Olvera**  kill  your  man  and  fly  to 
Olvera.  The  inhabitants  on  one  occa- 
sion, being  compelled  to  furnish  ra- 
tions to  a  French  detachment,  foisted 
on  them  asses'  flesh  for  veal ;  this  in- 
sult, says  M.  Rocca,  was  thrown 
always  into  their  teeth  :  "  Vous  avez 
mange  de  Tftne  k  Olvera."  His  *  Guerre 
en  Espagne  *  is  a  charming,  well-written 
and  one    of   the   best  French 


military  accounts.  It  details  hard- 
ships endured  by  his  countrymen  in 
these  hungry  hills,  where  for  one  cook, 
there  were  a  thousand  sharpshooters. 
Rocca  afterwards  married  Madame  de 
Stael. 


Route  18. — Seville  to  Ronda, 
BT  Zahaba. 

Utrera 5 

Coronil 3  . .  8 

Puerto  Serrano       .     .     .  4  . .  12 

Zahara 2  . .  14 

Ronda 4  . .  18 

Set  out  from  Seville  in  the  after- 
noon and  sleep  at  Utrerd  (see  p.  159), 
and  then  perform  the  rest  in  two  days. 
You  can,  however,  avoid  Utrera,  and 
bait  your  horses  at  the  Venta  de  Utrera, 
which  is  nearly  halfway,  and  inspect  the 
capital  olive  hacienda  of  the  Conde  de 
Torrenuevo,  The  dehesas  y  despoblados, 
delightful  to  the  wild  bee  and  botan-^ 
ist,  extend  to  castle-crowned  Coronil  * 
Posada  Nueva ;  the  other  Inn  is  de  los 
Dolores,  of  which  thin-skinned  tra- 
vellers* recollections  are  dolorous. 
The  Puerto  is  the  mountain-portal 
through  which  robbers  descend  to  in- 
fest the  high  road  to  Cadiz.  The  6  L. 
to  Ronda  are  very  long,  and  equal  to  7. 
After  tracking  and  crossing  the  Gua-» 
dalete  we  reach  a  new  venta,  built 
under  Zahara,  which  is  a  true  Moorish 
eagle's  nest  crowning  its  pyramidical 
hill,  and  so  fortified  by  nature. with 
rocks  for  walls,  and  river  for  moat,  as 
to  be  almost  impregnable  before  the 
invention  of  artillery.  The  cap- 
ture by  Muley  Aben  Hassen  in  1481 
was  the  first  blow  struck  in  the  war, 
which  ended  in  1492,  by  the  conquest 
of  Granada,  just  as  that  of  Saguntum 
by  Hannibal  led  to  the  downfall  of 
Carthage.  Hence  by  the  Citesta  de  la 
Vina  by  picturesque  defiles  to  Ronda. 


Route  19. — Seville  to  Ronda, 
bt  Ecija. 

Those  who  have  not  seen  Cordova 
will,  of  course,  go  there  in  the  dili- 


Ronda  Sf  Granada,         route  19. — ronda— the  tajo. 


261 


gence,  and  return  by  it  back  again  to 
Ecija,  and  thence  take  horses  for  the 

Sierra. 

Osima 4i 

Saucejo Si  . .  1 

Va.  de  Grenadal       •     .  2i  . .  H  > 

Setenil  de  las  Bodegas  .  li  . .  lOf 

Ronda 3  . .  13f 

Sleep  at  Osuna  (see  p.  264).  The  ride 
is  desolate ;  at  Saucejo  it  crests  the 
hills,  and  soon  becomes  very  pictu- 
resque ;  thence  to  Ronda  in  about  6  h, 
a  lonely  and  sometimes  dangerous 
journey.' 

Ronda  hsffi  tolerable  posadas,  de  las 
Animas  and  de  SanCarlos,  in  the  old  town. 
The  Fasteileria  de  CuatroNaciones  can  be 
the  most  recommended  ;  the  landlord 
civil :  in  the  new  town  there  is  a  very 
tidy  little  posada,  de  San  Cristobal— the 
Christopher — to  which  Etonians  may 
go,  in  the  Calle  del  Alberto,  and  near 
the  Alameda,  Posada  del  Tajo.  Those 
who  prefer  a  private  and  quiet  house 
will  find  many  ouElMercadillOfUeaT  the 
Flaza  de  Toros.  The  charges  at  the  fair 
time — the  season—  are  generally  higher 
than  at  others.  Roman  Ronda,  Arunda, 
lay  2  L.  north,  at  Acinipo,  now  called 
Ronda  la  Vieja.  The  Moors,  who  chose 
new  sites  for  most  of  their  cities,  used 
up  the  ancient  one  as  a  quarry  for  their 
Rondah,  as  the  Spaniards  have  done 
since.  The  Ronda  corporations  have 
been  such  busy  Vandals,  that  these 
ruins,  considerable  in  1747,  now 
scarcely  exist,  and  do  not  deserve  a 
visit.  The  coinage  is  described  by 
Florez  (M.  i.  153). 

Ronda,  say  the  Spaniards,  is  the 
Tivoli  of  Andalucia,  but  Trajan,  al- 
though an  Andaluz,  built  no  villa  here, 
and  Its  MsBcenas  was  the  Moor,  from 
whom  it  was  taken  by  surprise  by  Fer- 
dinand in  1485.  The  town  hangs  on  a 
river-girt  rock,  and  is  only  accessible 
by  land  up  a  narrow  ascent  guarded^ 
by  a  Moorish  castle.  It  contains 
13,000  Inhab.,  chiefly  composed  6f 
bold,  brave,  fresh-complexioned  moun- 
taineers, smugglers,  and  bull-fighters, 
and  Majos  muy  crvjdos.  The  Tajo,  or 
,  chasm,  which  divides  the  old  and 
new  town,  is  the  emphatic  feature. 
The  Guadalviny  Arabic^  the  "  deep 
stream,"  called  lower  down  El  Qua- 


dairo,  girdles  Ronda,  as  the  Marchan 
does  Alhama,  the  Tagus  Toledo,  and 
the  Huescar  and  Jucar  encircle  Cuenca. 
Those  in  search  of  the  picturesque . 
should  begin  at  the  old  bnd^  of  San 
Miguel,  and  descend  to  the  mill  below. 
The  modem  bridge,  which  at  the  other 
extremity  of  Ronda  spans  a  gulf  nearly 
300  feet  wide,  and  connects  the  new 
and  old  town,  and  was  built  in  1761,  by 
Jose  Martin  Aldeguela,  who  was  dashed 
to  pieces  by  a  fall:  standing  on  it, 
"  't  is  dizzy  to  cast  one's  eyes  below." 
The  Moorish  mills  in  the  valley  must 
be  descended  to,  passing  out  of  Ronda 
by  the  old  castle.  The  view  from 
them,  looking  up  to  the  cloud-sus- 
pended bridge,  is  unrivalled.  The 
arch  which  joins  the  Tajo  hangs  some 
600  ft.  above,  like  that  in  the  Koran, 
between  heaven  and  the  bottomless 
pit  J  the  river,  which,  black  as  Styx, 
has  long  struggled  heard  but  not  seen, 
in  the  cold  shadows  of  its  rocky  prison, 
now  escapes,  dashing  joyously  into 
light  and  liberty ;  the  waters  boil  in 
the  bright  burning  sun,  and  glitter 
like  the  golden  shower  of  Danae.  The 
giant  element  leaps  with  delirious 
bound  from  rock  to  rock,  until  at  last, 
broken,  buffeted,  and  weary,  it  sub- 
sides into  a  gentle  stream,  which  steals 
like  happiness  away,  adown  a  ver- 
durous valley  of  flower  and  fruit,  and 
offers  no  inapt  emblem  of  the  old  Spa- 
niard's life,  who  ended,  in  the  quietism 
of  the  cloister,  a  manhood  spent  in 
war,  hardship,  and  excitement.  There 
is  but  one  Ronda  in  the  world,  and  this 
Tajo^  cleft  as  it  were  by  the  scimitar  of 
Roldan,  forms,  when  the  cascade  is 
full,  as  we  have  seen  it  and  as  it  ought 
to  be  seen,  its  heart  and  soul.  The 
scene,  its  noise  and  movement,  baffle 
pen  and  pencil,  and,  like  Wilson  at 
the  Falls  of  Temi,  we  can  only  ex- 
claim, "  Well  done,  rock  and  water, 
by  Heavens  I " 

In  the  town,  visit  the  Dominican 
convent ;  the  Moorish  tower  stands  on 
the  verge  of  the  chasm.  There  is 
another  Moorish  tower  in  the  Calle 
del  Puente  viejo ;  visit,  in  the  Calle 
San  Pedro,  la  Casa  del  Rey  Moro,  built 
in  1042„  by  Al-Motadhed,  who  drank 
his  wine  out  of  jewel-studded  goblets 


262 


ROUTE  19. — RONDA. 


Sect.  III. 


formed  from  the  sculls  of  those  whom 
he  had  himself  decapitated  (Conde, 
ii.  26).  Here  is  la  mina  de  JRonda,  a 
staircase  cut  down  to  the  river  in  the 
solid  rock.  Descend  to  the  singular 
Nereid's  erotto  below,  which  was  du^ 
by  Christian  slaves,  in  1342,  for  Ah 
Abou  Melee.  The  bitter  task  of  de- 
scending and  raising  water  passed  into 
a  proverb,  Dios  me  guarde  del  zaque  de 
R<ynda ;  the  steps  were  protected  with 
iron;  these  the  Spaniards  sold,  and 
they  were  then  replaced  with  wood, 
which  General  Rojas,  the  governor, 
who  lived  in  the  house,  used  up,  in 
1833,  for  his  kitchen  firing. 

Ronda  is  an  intricate  old  Moorish 
town  of  tortuous  lanes  and  ups  and 
downs.  The  houses  are  small;  the 
doors  are  made  of  the  fine  Nogal^  or 
walnut,  which  abounds  in  the  fruit- 
bearing  valleys.  The  fruit,  especially 
the  Peros,  Saniboas,  Ciruelas,  and  Me- 
locotones  are  excellent;  indeed  the 
apples  and  pears  of  Ronda  are  pro- 
verbial. The  damsels,  unlike  those 
of  tawny  Andalucia,  are  as  fresh 
and  ruddy  as  the  pippins.  Ronda  is 
the  cool  summer  residence  for  the 
wealthy  of  Seville,  Ecija,  and  Mala^. 
Being  highly  salubrious,  the  longevity 
is  proverbial ;  thus  Vicente  de  Espinel, 
bom  here  in  1551,  died  at  the  age  of 
ninety ;  he  was  one  of  the  best  mu- 
sicians, poets,  and  novelists  of  Spain, 
and  translated  Horace's  *Art  of  Poetry.' 
Espinel  had  served  in  the  campaigns 
of  Italy,  and  in  his  picaresque  tale  of 
Marcos  de  Obre^on — translated  by 
Major  Langton — gives  his  own  adven- 
tures ;  it  is  from  this  work  that  Le 
Sage  borrowed  freely  for  his  Gil  Bias. 
True  believers,  who  wish  to  shorten 
the  pangs  of  purgatory,  can  do  much 
in  a  month  at  Ronda.  In  the  church, 
the  iSocorro,  they  may  be  succoured  at 
the  rate  of  a  million  days'  indulgence, 
by  one  touch,  such  is  the  benefit  of  the 
cuenta  del  Millon,  while  in  this  life  the 
longevity  of  Ronda  is  expressed  in  a 
proverb.  En  Ronda  los  hombres  d  ochenta 
son  pollones.  These  hardy  octogenarian 
chickens,  according  to  M.  Rocca,  used 
to  hide  in  the  rocks,  and  amuse  them- 
selves with  popping  at  the  French 
sentries.    The  land-gate  was  repaired 


by  Charles  V.  The  Alcazar,  or  castle, 
is  the  property  of  the  Giron,  and  the 
Duque  de  Ahumada  is  hereditary  go- 
vernor. The  invaders  blew  it  up  on 
retiring,  from  sheer  love  of  destruc- 
tion, for  it  is  entirely  commanded,  and 
since  the  use  of  artillery  valueless  as  a 
military  defence. 

The  fine  stone-built  Flaza  de  Toros, 
or  bull  arena,  is  in  the  new  town,  near 
the  rose-garnished  Alameda,  which 
hangs  over  the  beetling  cliff :  the  view 
from  this  eminence  over  the  depth  be- 
low, and  mountain  panorama,  is  one 
of  the  finest  In  the  world.  After  the 
bull-fights,  vultures — which  the  natives 
swear  are  eagles — hover  around,  at- 
tracted by  the  dead  auimals,  adding  to 
the  Salvator  Rosa  sentiment.  The 
Plaza  itB/eKy  and  all  the  cells  for  the 
bulls,  and  the  contrivances  for  letting 
them  in  and  out,  are  well  worth 
examination  by  tauromachians.  The 
fairs  and  Fiestas  are  of  the  first  order. 
May  20th  is,  or  rather  was,  the  time 
to  see  Ronda,  its  bulls  and  MajoSy  in 
their  glory.  This  is  the  ^eat  leather, 
saddlery,  embroidered  gaiters,  garters, 
mantas,  and  horse  fair,  to  which  many 
detachments  of  English  officers  ride 
from  the  Rock,  and  some  in  one  day  ; 
but  commonplace  civilization  is  ruin- 
ing the  national  and  the  picturesque. 
The  Maestranza,  or  equestrian  corpora- 
tion of  Ronda,  takes  precedence  over 
all  others. 

The  Ronda  horses  are  small,  but 
active ;  Jose  Zafran  is  the  Anderson  of 
the  Serrania.  Excursions  may  be  made 
to  Ronda  la  Vieja,  to  the  picturesque 
cavern  La  Cueva  del  Gato,  which  lies, 
with  its  untrodden  stalactical  caverns, 
about  2  L.  N.W.,  from  whence  a  rivulet, 
a  gushing  Vaucluse,  emerges  and  flows 
into  the  Guadairo.  N.B.  After  seeing 
this  Cueva  ride  round  by  Benajuan  and 
Montejaque  to  the  gorge  of  Zumidero, 
equal  to  any  thing  in  the  Alps,  thence 
to  Ronda,  an  excursion  which  will 
take  6   h.      For    antiquities    consult 

*  Dialogos  por  la  Historia  de  Ronda*  1 766, 
Juan  Ribera;  also  Carter's  excellent 

*  Journey*  1777. 


Bonda  Sf  Granada,     route  20.- 

ROUTE  20.~RONDA  to  XeREZ. 

Grazalema 3 

£1  Bosque 8  . .  6 

Arcos 6  . .  11 

Xerez 6  . .  16 


This,  one  of  the  wildest  rides  in  the 
SerranxGy  is  eminently  lonely  but  pic- 
turesque ;  a  horse  with  baggage  can 
get  to  El  Bosqtte  in  4  h.,  and  thence  to 
Arcos  in  6,  and  in  as  many  more  to 
Xerez,  Passing  the  almond  and  walnut 
groves  of  the  valley  of  the  Guadairo, 
we  enter  a  dehesa  of  cistus  and  quercus 
Quexigo.  About  half  way  is  a  rocky 
gorge,  a  notorious  robber-lair.  Here  we 
once  counted  15  monumental  crosses 
in  the  space  of  50  ^ards,  stretching  out 
their  black  arms  m  Spanish  welcome ; 
they  are  raised  on  the  "  heap  of  stones" 
(Josh.  vii.  26)  ;  the  "  shreds,  flints,  and 
pebbles  thrown  for  charitable  pur- 
poses" on  the  murdered  traveller's 
frave.  These  are  the  Xi^«i  Xtyatiis  of 
ausanias  (x.  5, 4) ;  the  heaps  over  the 
dead,  t«^m  tumuli,  which  m  Turkey 
are  thought  to  conceal  treasure.  Med 
Tepee  (ra^os).  It  was  an  Oriental  and 
Roman  custom  to  cast  if  only  one 
stone.  Quamquam  festmas  turn  est  mora 
longa.  A  simple  wooden  cross  bears  the 
name  of  the  victim,  and  the  date  of  his 
foul  unnatural  murder,  cut  off  in  the 
blossom  of  his  sins,  no  reckoning  made. 
Pray  God  for  his  soul  I  These  crosses, 
here  the  signs  of  execution  not  redemp- 
tion, do  not  affect  or  alarm  the  Spa- 
niard, who  is  used  to  appalling  symbols 
in  churches  and  out ;  he  is  Indifferent 
from  habit  to  associations  of  blood  and 
wounds,  at  which  the  solitary  stranger 
is  disagreeably  startled;  a  shadow  of 
death  seems  to  hover  over  localities 
where  such  stones  preach  Spanish  ser- 
mons, te  saxa  logxmtur ;  a  dreary  feel- 
ing will  steal  over  the  most  cheerful, 
boldest  mind,  it  is  not  good  to  be  alone. 
The  wanderer,  far  nom  home  and 
friends,  feels  doubly  a  stranger  in  this 
strange  land,  where  no  smile  greets  his 
coming,  no  tear  is  shed  at  his  going, — 
where  his  memory  passes  away;  like 
that  of  a  guest  who  tarrieth  but  a  day, — 
where  nothing  of  human  life  is  seen, 
where  its  existence  only  is  inferred  by 
these  stone-piled  cairns  which  mark  the 


-RONDA  TO  XEREZ. 


263 


unconsecrated  grave  of  some  traveller 
likehimself,who  has  been  waylaid  there 
alone,  murdered,  and  sent  to  his  account 
with  all  his  imperfections  on  his  head ! 
These  Spanish  milestones,  memento 
mori,  are  awkward  evidences  that  the 
repetition  is  not  altogether  impossible, 
and  make  a  single  gentleman,  whose 
life  is  not  insured,  keep  his  powder 
dry,  and  look  every  now  and  then  if 
his  percussion  cap  fits. 

Grazalema,  Lsicidulia,  Posada — La 
Trinidad,  is  plastered  like  a  martlet- 
nest  on  the  rocky  hill,  and  can  only 
be  approached  by  a  narrow  ledge. 
The  inhabitants,  smugglers  and  rob- 
bers, beat  back  a  whole  division  of 
French,  who  compared  it  to  a  land 
Gibraltar.  The  wild  women,  as  they 
wash  their  parti-coloured  garments  in 
the  bubbling  stream,  eye  the  traveller 
as  if  a  perquisite  of  their  worthy  mates. 
The  road  now  clambers  over  the 
heights  under  the  mountain  nucleus 
San  Cristobal,  the  Atlas  of  Roman  Ca- 
tholics. It  is  also  called  la  Cabeza  del 
Moro,  and  is  the  first  land  seen  by  ships 
coming  from  the  Atlantic.  The  sum-<, 
mit  is  generally  snow-clad.  Seen  from 
that  height  the  plains  of  the  Guadal- 
quivir are  laid  out  like  a  map  ;  we 
slept  at  a  tidy  posada  in  El  Bosque, 
Continuing  the  nde  through  a  pleasant 
country,  we  reach  Benamahomad,  a 
hamlet  all  girt  with  streams  and  ^r- 
dens.  Hence,  over  an  undulating  pine- 
clad  despoblado  to  Arcos  de  la  Frontera, 
which  rises  over  the  Guadalete  in  two 
points,  one  crowned  by  a  tower,  the 
other  by  a  convent.  Crossing  the 
wooden  bridge,  a  steep  ascent,  over- 
looking a  yawning  precipice,  leads  up 
to  this  steep  wild  place  of  truly  Anda- 
lucian  majos,  who  continue  to  wear  the 
national  costume  in  all  its  ^lory.  The 
portal  of  the  Parroquia  is  in  excellent 
Gothic  of  the  Catholic  kings.  The 
banners  taken  at  Zahara  in  1483  were 
kept  in  the  San  Pedro,  There  is  a 
decent  posada  on  the  r.  hand,  going  out 
of  the  town  to  Xerez.  Pop.  about 
11,000.  The  views  from  alM>ve  are 
superb,  ranging  over  the  Ronda  moun- 
tains. The  pLains  below,  being  irri- 
gated from  the  river,  produce  abun- 
dant crops  and  fruits. 


264 


BOUTE  21. — ^RONDA  TO  GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


Aj'cos,  Arci  Colonia,  Arco  Brigay 
was  an  Iberian  town,  Brija  being 
equivalent  to  "city,"— burgh,  borough, 
bury,  Ttf»yot.  It  was  taken  by  Alonso 
el  Sabio  from  the  Moore,  and  was  cstlled 
de  la  frontera  from  its  frontier  position ; 
almost  impregnable  by  nature,  it  was 
embattled  with  walls  and  towere,  por- 
tions of  which  remain.  The  Arcos 
barbs,  and  their  watchful  daring 
ridere,  are  renowned  in  ancient  ballads. 
They  were  reared  in  the  plains  below, 
and  especially  in  the  once  famous 
Haras  of  the  Carthusians  of  Xerez. 
The  intervening  country  is  without 
interest. 


BoUTE  21. — RONDA  TO  GbANADA. 

Cnevas  del  Becerro      .    .  3 

Campillos 3  . .  6 

Bobadilla 3  ..  9 

Anteqnera   •     .     .     •     •  2  . .  11 

Archidona 2  . .  13 

Loja 3  ..  16 

Granada 8  . .  24 

This  ma^  be  ridden  easily  in  3  days 
by  a  well-girt  horeeman.  From  Ronda 
to  Campillos  9  houre ;  Campillos  to  Loja 
12  houre,  allowing  one  for  baiting; 
Loja  to  Granada  9  houre,  allowing 
half  an  hour  for  halting;  Antequera 
lies  out  of  the  direct  road,  but  is  well 
worth  visiting ;  those  in  a  hurry  might 
sleep  the  firet  night  at  Campillos^  or  at 
the  solitary  venta  under  Teba. 

The  only  mid-day  halt  is  the  venta 
at  the  Cuevas  del  Becerro , "  Caves  of  the 
Calf,"  a  den  fittish  for  beasts,  but  the 
place  may  be  left  out  altogether,  in  which 
case  the  half  way  will  be  at  the  Venta 
del  Puerto,  Nature,  indeed,  enthroned 
in  her  alpine  heights  and  green  car- 
peted valleys,  has  lavished  beauty  and 
fertility  around;  man  alone  and  his 
dwellings  are  poverty-stricken.  About 
half  way  on  to  Campillos,  Teba,  The- 
ba,  rises  on  the  r.,  but  is  not  worth  as- 
cending up  to.  The  name,  which  has 
puzzled  antiquarians,  occura,  in  the 
Egyptian  Thebais,  and  Tap^  in  Coptic 
means  "head,  capital."  The  son  of 
Abraham  by  the  concubine  Rennah 
(Gen.    xxii.    24)    was    called    Teba. 


Thebes  in  Bceotia  was  founded  by  the 
Phoenician  Cadmus;  and  the  word 
Teba,  in  Boeotian  dialect,  signified  a 
hill  (M.  Varro,  *  R.  R.'  iii.  I),  which 
coincides  with  this  locality.  Mean- 
time the  Bryants  and  Fabers,  and 
dabblere  in  Noetic  and  Archite  arch- 
seology,  contend  that  Teba,  in  Syriac 
(Tzeses,  Scho.  Lye.  1206)  a  heifer, 
and  in  Hebrew  an  ark,  alluded  to 
the  female  symbol  of  the  regenera- 
tion of  nature  in  contradistinction  to 
the  male  principle  Gor  (Hebrew), 
2Mp0f,  a  bull  and  a  coffin.  Theba  (not 
this  one),  say  they,  was  the  eminence 
on  which  the  Noetic  ark  rested,  but 
perhaps  they  may  be  wrong. 

Andalucian  Teba  was  recovered  from 
the  Moore  by  Alonso  XI.  in  1328. 
Bruce,  according  to  Froissart,  when 
on  his  deathbed,  called  the  good  Lord 
James  of  Douglas,  and  told  him  that 
he  had  always  wished  to  fight  against 
the  enemies  of  Christ,  and  that,  as  he 
had  been  unable  to  do  so  while  alive, 
he  now  selected  him,  the  bravest  of  his 
knights,  to  carry  his  heart,  after  his 
death,  to  the  Holy  Land.  As  there 
were  no  ships  going  directly  to  Jeru- 
salem, Lord  James  proceeded  to  Spain, 
and,  thinking  fighting  the  Moors  in 
the  intermediate  time  would  be  the 
most  agreeable  to  the  wishes  of  the 
deceased,  proceeded  to  the  siege  of 
Teba.  He  wore  the  royal  heart  in  a 
silver  case  around  his  neck.  In  the 
critical  moment  of  the  battle,  he  and 
his  follow  ere  were  abandoned  by  their 
Spanish  allies;  then  the  good  Lord 
threw  the  heart  of  the  Bruce  into  the 
fiercest  fray,  exclaiming,  "  Pass  firet 
in  fight,  as  thou  wast  wont  to  go,  and 
Douglas  will  follow  thee  or  die,"  which 
he  did.  For  historic  references  see 
our  paper,  *  Quart,  Rev.'  cxxvi.  310. 
In  our  times  the  fair  Condesa  de  Teba, 
a  fair  scion  of  the  illustrious  house  of 
Guzman,  won  the  imperial  heart  of 
Napoleon  III. 

There  are  some  decent  posadas  at 
Campillos,  on  the  Alameda — La  Corona, 
Jesus'  Nazareno,  and  Santa  Maria  del 
Carmen.  The  Salina,  *  or  Salt  Lake, 
distant  2  L.,  forms  a  striking  object 
from  Campillos. 

Antequera,  Anticaria  was  in  the  time 


Ronda  ^  Granada,        route  21. — antequera. 


265 


of  the  Romans,  as  now,  an  important 
city  of  the  second  order ;  lying,  how- 
ever, out  of  the  high  road,  it  is  seldom 
visited.  Pop.  16,000.  The  best  inns 
are  Posada  de  la  Castauat  La  Corona,  and 
one  in  the  Calh  de  las  Comedias.  The 
ancient  town  was  situated  at  Antequera 
la  Vieja.  The  remains  of  a  palace  and 
a  theatre,  almost  perfect  in  1 544,  were 
used  as  a  quarry  to  build  the  convent  of 
San  Juan  de  Dios  ;  a  few  fragments  were 
saved  by  Juan  Porcel  de  Peralta  in 
158.5,  and  are  imbedded  in  the  walls 
near  the  Arco  de  Gignntes,  going  to  the 
castle  court.  Others  were  then  brought 
from  Nescania,  7  miles  W.,  where  a 
hamlet  was  erected  in  1547  for  the 
invalids  who  came  to  drink  the  waters 
of  the  old  Fons  divinus,  now  called  the 
Fuente  de  Piedra,  because  good  for 
stone  and  gravel  complaints. 

Anteqv£ra  (Antikeyrah)  was  reco- 
vered from  the  Moors  in  1410  by  the 
Regent  Fernando,  who  hence  is  called 
**jE'/  Infante  de  Antequera."  He  gave 
the  city  for  arms  the  badge  of  his  mi- 
litary order.  La  Terraza,  the  "vase" 
{quasi  de  terra)  the  pot  of  lilies  of  the 
Virgin,  under  which  the  mystery  of 
the  divine  incarnation  was  shrouded 
(see  our  Remarks,  *  Quart.  Rev.*  cxxiii. 
1 30).  This  order,  the  earliest  in  Spain, 
was  founded  in  1035  by  Garcia  of  Na- 
varre.— See  the  curious  details,  p.  177, 
Discursos  Varies ,  D.  J.  Dormer,  4*. 
Zarag,  1683.  Antec^uera  contains  some 
20,000  Inhab.,  chiefly  agricultural ; 
they  wear  the  majo  dress,  and  are 
fond  of  green  velvets  and  gilt  filigree. 
In  the  fertile  plain  is  a  peculiar  salt 
laguna,  or  lake.  The  town  is  clean 
and  well  built.  The  Colegiata,  gutted 
by  the  invaders,  has  been  partially 
refitted ;  but  poverty  of  design  unites 
with  poverty  of  material.  The  castle 
is  Moorish,  built  on  Roman  founda- 
tions. Observe  the  Barbican.  Ascend 
the  Torre  Mocha,  with  its  incongruous 
modem  belfry.  Observe  the  Roman 
frieze  and  cornice  at  the  entrance. 
The  view  is  striking.  In  front,  the 
Lover's  Rock  rises  out  of  the  plain, 
and  to  the  r.  the  three  conical  hills  of 
Archidona.  The  castle  is  much  di- 
lapidated. The  curious  old  mosque  in 
the  enclosure  was  converted  by  the 

Spain, — I, 


French  into  a  store-house,  but  the  mag- 
nificent Moorish  armoury  disappeared 
when  the  city  was  sacked  by  them; 
the  enem^,*  at  the  evacuation  of  Ante- 
quera,  wished  to  destroy  the  castle, 
but  Cupid  interfered ;  the  artilleryman 
left  to  fire  the  train  lingered  so  long 
taking  his  last  farewell  of  his  nut- 
brown  querida,  that  he  was  himself 
taken  prisoner,  and  so  the  walls  es- 
caped. W  hen  we  were  last  at  Antequera 
the  governor  was  in  the  act  of  taking 
down  the  Moorish  mosque,  to  sell  the 
materials  and  pocket  the  cash.  The 
tower  of  San  Sebastian,  the  clock,  and 
the  copper  angel  the  vane,  are  thought 
magnificent  by  the  natives. 

Antequera,  probably  because  it  suits 
the  rhyme,  is  the  place  selected  by  the 
proverb  which  indicates  the  tendency 
in  Spaniards  of  each  person  taking 
first  care  of  himself :  "  Saiga  el  sol  por 
Antequera,  venga  lo  que  viniere,  el  ul- 
timo mono  se  aJioga,  I  *ll  be  ofi',  for  the 
last  monkey  is  drowned."  Occupet 
extremum  scabies.  This  is,  however, 
only  the  sauice  qui  peui  principle  of  the 
selfish  of  all  times  and  places,  whose 
cry  is,  the  devil  take  the  hindmost. 

Antequera  was  the  home  of  the  great 
Alcaide  Narvaez,  el  de  la  gran  lanzada. 
— See  the  curious  Historia,  &c.,  by 
Francisco  Balbi  de  Corregio,  4°,  Milan, 
1693.  This  Don  was  no  less  redoubt- 
able a  personage  in  his  time  than  Don 
Ramon,  the  Duque  de  Valencia,  was  in 
ours.  Consult  for  local  histoiy  Pane- 
gericos,  &c.  Pedro  de  Espinosa,  8vo., 
Xerez,  1628 ;  Historia  de  Antequera, 
Francisco  Espinosa  y  Aquilena,  8vo., 
reprinted  Malaga,  1842. 

From  Antequera  there  is  a  bad  but 
carriageable  road  to  Malaga,  9  L., 
which  is  to  be  continued  on  to  Cordova. 
Ascending  the  height  is  a  lusus  nature, 
called  el  Torcal,  an  assemblage  of 
stones  which  look  like  a  deserted 
town.  The  8  L.  are  hilly,  dreary, 
and  townless.  Leaving  the  pass  Boca 
del  Asno  are  the  wretched  ventas,  de 
Gahez,  4Ij.,  de  Linares,  2  L.,  and  de 
Matagatos,  1  L.,  a  true  kill-cat  den, 
where  none  but  an  ass  will  open  his 
mouth  for  food.  The  views  on  de- 
scending to  Malaga  are  delicious. 

The  ride  to   Granada  is    pleasant. 

N 


266 


ROUTE  22. — EONDA  TO  MALAGA. 


Sect.  III. 


Just  outside  the  town,  on  the  road  to 
Archidona,  is  la  Cueva  de  Mengal,  which 
looks  E.,  and  is  some  70  ft.  deep,  it 
was  only  examined  for  the  first  time  in 
1842,  by  Rafael  Mitjana,  an  architect 
of  Malaga.  He  got  the  interior 
cleared  out,  by  assuring  the  Antique- 
ran  authorities,  but  not  antiquarians, 
that  treasures  were  buried  there.  It 
was  long  known  by  the  shepherds  and 
neglected;  some  consider  it  Celtic, 
others  Druidical.  See  the  Memoria, 
published  by  Mitjana.  8vo.  Malaga, 
1847.  Observe  the  hawkheaded  form 
of  the  PenoUy  and  the  profile  of  a  fe- 
male cut  as  it  were  from  the  hill  above 
Archidona :  on  leaving  this  Cueva  we 
reach  the  banks  of  the  Feguas,  and  the 
Peu^a  or  Peilon  de  los  Enamorados,  which 
rises  like  a  G  ibraltar  out  of  the  sea  of  the 
plain.  Sappho  leaps  of  true  love,  which 
never  did  run  smooth,  are  of  all  times 
and  countries.  Here,  it  is  said,  a 
Moorish  maiden,  eloping  with  a  Chris- 
tian knight,  baffled  their  pursuers  by 
precipitating  themselves,  locked  in 
each  other's  arms,  into  a  stony  couch. 
(See  the  story  at  length  in  Mariana, 
xix.  22,  and  in  Southey's  ballad  on 
Laila  and  Manuel.)  The  verdurous 
valley  is  still  the  mid-day  halt  of  the 
sun-burnt  traveller,  who  tastes  the  joy 
of  living  fountains  of  water  under  the 
"  shadow  of  a  great  rock  in  a  weary 
land." 

"  Flrnnma  mnacus  ubi  et  TiridiBsima  p^mina  rip& 
SpeluDcse  que  tegunt  et  aaxea  procubat  umbra." 

Leaving  the  rock  to  the  1.,  and  passing 
a  pretty  olive-grove,  the  road  turns  to 
Archidona,  Xapxri^uvy  and  thence  winds 
to  Loja.     (See  p.  255.) 

Route  22. — Ronda  to  Malaga. 


Al  Borgo     . 
Casarabonela 
Cartama 
Malaga  •     . 


3 
2 
3 
3 


5 

8 
11 


Those  who  ride  this  wild  mountain 
route  must  indeed  rough  it.  Attend 
carefully  to  the  provend,  for,  however 
satisfactory  the  banquet  of  alpine 
scenery,  there  is  more  food  for  the 
painter  and  poet's  eye,  in  fine  frenzy 
rolling,  than  for  his  body.  The  ride 
takes  13  good  h.  with  stout  horses ; 


ladies  had  better  brave  the  fatigue 
than  the  Posadas,  and  ride  it  at  once, 
leaving  Casarabonela  and  Cartama  about 
J  a  L.  to  the  rt. ;  you  can  ride  from 
Ronda  to  a  wood  J  a  league  beyond 
el  Borgo,  in  5  h. ;  thence  to  a  venta 
1  L.  beyond  Casarabonela,  2^  h. ;  dine 
there ;  thence  to  Malaga  in  about  6  h., 
by  a  plain  that  seems  never  coming  to 
an  end. 

By  the  other  route,  after  leaving 
Ronda  and  ascending  the  Puerto  de 
los  Espinillos,  and  passing  the  arches 
of  tj^e  aqueduct,  cross  the  stream  del 
Toro,  and  thence  to  the  Puertos  del 
Viento,  and  on  to  that  de  los  Empedra- 
dos.  Wind-blown  and  stony  indeed  are 
these  mountain  defiles,  nor  is  the 
locality  near  the  latter,  which  is  called 
Dientes  de  la  Vieja,  ill  named ;  a  broken 
wild  tract  leads  to  miserable  El  Burgo, 
with  its  bridge  and  hamlet.  Thence  over 
a  dehesa  by  the  passes  of  El  ffoimillo  and 
Media  Fanega,  to  the  stream  and 
wretched  venta  of  Casarabonela.  After 
descending,  the  Cuesta  de  Cascoral  is  the 
usual  halting-place ;  and  bad  it  is,  but 
perhaps  less  bad  than  the  venta  of 
Cartama,  which  may  be  left  to  the  r. 
about  ^  a  L.  There  is  also  a  farm  or 
Cortijo  de  P'illalon  farther  on,  where 
travellers  may  rest  at  night.  Cartama, 
Cartima,  is  built  on  a  hill,  and  the 
prefix  "  car,**  "  kartha,"  shows  its  punic 
origin.  It  was  once  a  fine  city  (see 
Livy,  xl.  47) ;  although  some  think 
that  he  refers  to  another  Cartima,  near 
Ucles;  remains,  however,  are  con- 
stantly discovered,  and,  as  usual,  either 
neglected  by  the  authorities  or  broken 
up  by  the  peasantry.  On  one  occasion 
the  late  Mr.  Mark, consul  at  Malaga, ob- 
serving some  marble  figures  worked  as 
old  stones  into  a  prison  wall,  ofi'ered  to 
replace  them  with  other  masonry,  in 
order  to  save  the  antiques.  The  autho- 
rities,  suspecting  that  they  contained 
gold,  refused,  but  took  them  out  them- 
selves, and  were  with  difficulty  pre- 
vented sawing  them  in  pieces,  and  at 
last,  not  knowing  what  to  do  with  them, 
cast  them  aside  like  rubbish  outside  the 
town.  Spaniards  being  generally  igno- 
rant of  the  real  value  of  these  matters, 
whenever  a  foreigner  wishes  to  have 
them  pass  at  once  into  hyperbolical 


Ronda  5'  Granada. 


ROUTE  23. — GAUCIN, 


267 


notions,  and  estimate  at  more  than  their 
weight  in  gold,  relics  which  they  before 
considered  more  worthless  than  old 
stones.  Leaving  Cartama  and  the  Sierra, 
we  enter  the  rich  plain  of  Malaga, 
studded  with  ruins,  villages,  and  ha- 
ciendas. 

Route  23. — Ronda  to  Gibraltar. 

Ati^te .2 

Oaucin 3  . .  5 

San  Roque  .....     6  ..  11 

Gibraltar 2  . .  13 

This  superb  mountain  ride  threads 
hill  and  dale,  along  the  edge  of  pre- 
cipices. By  starting  from  Honda  at 
7  A.M.  you  may  reach  Gaucin  about 
3J  P.M. ;  next  day,  by  leaving  Gaucin 
'  at  6.  P.M.,  you  get  to  Gibraltar  be- 
tween 4  and  5  p.m.  ;  you  can  ride 
easily  from  Honda  to  San  Roque  in 
15  hours,  halting  2  at  Gaucin,  There 
is  also  a  lower  and  smoother  road  by 
which  Gaucin  may  be  avoided  alto- 
gether (see  next  column).  At  the 
bottom  of  an  alpine  defile  is  la  Fuente 
de  Piedra,  placed  in  a  funnel  from 
which  there  is  no  escape  should  a 
robber  ambuscade  be  laid.  Thence, 
scrambling  up  the  mountains,  we  pass 
Moorish  villages,  built  on  heights, 
with  Moorish  names  and  half-Moorish 
peasantry,  e.  g.  Atajate,  Benarraba, 
Benadalid,  Ben  Alauria.  These  settle- 
ments of  Beni,  "  children,"  mark  the 
isolating  love  of  tribe  which  the  Arabs 
brought  with  them  from  the  East,  im- 
planting on  a .  new  and  congenial  soil 
the  weakness  of  the  nomade  race  of 
Ishmael,  whose  hand  is  against  eveij 
one,  and  against  whom  every  hand  us 
raised.  These  unamal^mating  "  Beni " 
united,  however,  against  the  French, 
who  found  in  such  robbers  more  than 
their  match.  The  hard-woricing  high- 
land peasants  cultivate  every  patch  of 
the  mountain  sides,  terracing  them 
into  hanging  gardens,  and  bringing 
up  earth  from  below  in  baskets. 

Gaucin  is  most  romantically  situated 
on  a  cleft  ridge.  The  Posada  de  la  Paz 
is  tolerable,  but  not  cheap ;  the  Posada 
Inglesa  or  del  Eosario  is  newer.  Here 
(Sept.  19,  1309)  Guzman  el  Bueno 
was  killed,  in  the  53rd  year  of  his 


age.  Ascend  the  Moorish  castle,  much 
shattered  by  an  explosion,  April  23, 
1843.  The  view  is  glorious.  Gibral- 
tar rises  like  a  molar  t(X)th  in  the  dis- 
tance and  Africa  looms  beyond.  In 
the  hermitage  of  the  castle  was  a  small 
image  of  the  Infant  Saviour,  El  niflo 
Dios,  which,  being  dressed  in  a  re- 
splendent French  court  suit,  was  na- 
turally held  by  Spaniards  in  profound 
veneration  far  and  ^v^^ide.  Some  of  the 
miracles  he  works  seem  positively  in- 
credible. This  image  is  now  wor- 
shiped in  the  parish  churoh. 

Leaving  Gaucin  is  a  tremendous 
descent  by  a  sort  of  earthquake  dislo- 
cated staircase,  which  scales  the  wall 
barrier  to  this  frontier  of  Granada. 
The  road  seems  made  by  the  evil  one 
in  a  hanging  garden  of  Eden.  An 
orange-grove  on  the  banks  of  the  Gva- 
dairo  welcomes  the  traveller,  and  tells 
him  that  the  Sierra  is  passed.  To  tho£e 
coming  from  Gibraltar  this  mountain 
wall  is  the  appropriate  barrier  to 
Granada,  while  Gaucin  crests  the 
heights  like  a  watchful  sentinel.  This 
oleander-fringed  river  is  crossed  and 
re-crossed,  and  is  very  dangerous  in 
rainy  weather.  On  its  banks  is  the 
lonely  Venta  del  Guadairo,  where 
whatever  provend  you  have  brought 
with  you  can  be  washed  down  with 
wine  of  Est^ona,  whose  flavour  is 
pleasant,  and  colour  amber  and  yellow. 
By  cutting  off  now  to  the  1.,  and  keep- 
ing along  the  sands  to  Gibraltar,  you 
can  avoid  San  EoquCy  and  thus,  if  late, 
save  2  L.  Those  who  go  to  San  Koque, 
after  passing  the  ferry  of  the  Xeriar, 
sweet  glades  of  chesnut  and  cork  trees, 
will  duly  and  pleasantly  arrive.  Ob- 
serve the  shepherds  armed,  like  David, 
with  their  sling,  wherewith  they  man- 
age theit  flocks.  This,  introduced 
by  Phoenicians,  became  the  formidable 
weapon  of  Oriental  and  Iberian  (Ju- 
dith vi.  12;  Plin,  '  N.  H.'  vii.  56; 
Strabo,  iii.  255).  It  was  much  used 
in  the  Balearic  Islands,  hence  so 
called,  MTo  Tov  /SoXXuy.  These  are  the 
slings  with  which  the  shepherds 
knocked  out  Don  Quixote's  teeth. 
Compare  the  Hondas  of  Old  Castile. 

This  mountain  route  from  Gaucin 
is  rather  severe  :  an  easier  one,  but  a 

N  2 


268 


ROUTE  23. — ^ROXDA  TO  GIBRALTAR. 


Sect,  in. 


long  single  day's  ride,  lies  by  the 
Talley  of  the  Guadairo,  avoiding  the 
hills.  Leave  Ronda  by  the  Merca- 
dillo,  descend  to  the  river,  keep  along 
its  pleasant  banks  to  Cortes,  which  is 
left  about  1^  mile  to  the  r.,  without 
going  to  it ;  then  continue  up  the  river 
valley,  to  the  back  of  Gaucin,  which 
rises  about  3  m.  off  to  the  1.,  and  is  not 
to  be  entered.  Ascend  the  hill  to  the 
Xiniena  road,  and  soon  strike  off  to  the 
1.,  through  la  Boca  del  Leon  to  the  Cork- 
wood, and  thence  to  San  Roque.  The 
Arrieros  try  to  dissuade  travellers  from 
taking  this  valley,  and  best  route,  in 
order  to  get  them  to  sleep  at  sonoe 
friend's  house  at  Gaucin^  and  thus 
employ  the  horses  for  two  days  instead 
of  one. 

San  Roque.  There  is  good  accom- 
modation at  Macre's  Hotel,  El  Correo 
Ingles,  Calle  San  Felipe.  The  town 
was  built  in  1704  by  the  Spaniards, 
after  the  loss  of  Gibraltar,  when  they 
used  up  the  remains  of  time-honoured 
Carteia  as  a  quarry.  It  is  named  after 
its  tutelar  saint,  San  Roque.  This  mo- 
dern Esculapius  is  always,  like  his 
prototype  (Pans.  ii.  27,  2),  painted 
with  a  companion  dog,  who  licks  the 
wound  in  his  thigh :  here  he  has  a 
hermitage  and  fixed  residence ;  conse- 
quently, perhaps,  no  place  is  more 
wholesome ;  it  is  the  hospital  of  the 
babies  and  "  scorpions  of  Gib,**  who 
ffet  at  San  Roque  "  sound  as  roaches  ;'* 
m  fact,  as  in  cases  of  royal  touching  for 
evil,  when  a  patient  is  given  over,  he  is 
pronounced  incurable  by  Mey  6  Roque. 
The  town  is  very  cheap ;  a  family  can 
live  here  for  half  the  expense  necessary 
at  Gibraltar:  pop.  above  7000.  It  is 
the  chief  town  of  the  Campo  de  Gib- 
raltar ^  and  has  always  been  made  the 
head-quarters  of  the  different  Spanish 
and  French  armies,  which  have  not  re- 
taken Gibraltar.  The  descendants  of 
the  expelled  fortress  linger  near  the 
gates  of  their  former  paradise,  now, 
alas!  in  the  temporary  occupation  of 
heretics,  since  they  indulge  in  a  long- 
deferred  hope  of  return,  as  the  Moors  of 
Tetuan  sigh  for  the  re-possession  of 
Granada .  Even  yet  our  possession  of  the 
Rock  is  not  quite  a  fait  accompli,  and 
*he  king  of  the  Spains  still  calls  him- 


self the  king  of  Gibraltar ;  of  which 
the  alcaldes  of  San  Roque,  in  their 
ofllcial  documents,  designate  them- 
selves the  authorities,  and  all  persons 
bom  on  the  Rock  are  entitled  to  the 
rights  of  native  Spanish  subjects. 
The  town,  from  being  made  the  sum- 
mer residence  of  many  English  fami- 
lies, is  in  a  state  of  transition :  thus, 
while  the  portion  on  the  Spanish  side 
remains  altogether  Spanish,  and  the 
road  to  the  interior  execrable,  the 
quarter  facing  "  the  Rock  **  is  snug 
and  smug,  with  brass  knockers  on  the 
doors,  and  glass  in  the  windows ;  and 
the  road  is  excellent,  macadamized 
not  by  the  Dons,  but  by  General  Don 
and  for  English  convenience.  No 
San  Roquian  ever  looks  towards 
Spain;  his  eyes,  like  a  Scotchman's, 
are  fixed  southward  on  "  La  Plaga** 
the  place  for  cheap  goods,  good  cigars, 
and  his  El  Dorado,  his  ne  plus  ultra. 
At  every  step  in  advance  Spain  re- 
cedes ;  parties  of  reckless  subalterns 
gallop  over  the  sands  on  crop-tailed 
hacks,  hallooing  to  terriers,  and  crack- 
ing hunting-whips— animals,  instru- 
ments, and  occupations  utterly  un- 
known in  Iberia.  Then  appear  red- 
faced  slouching  pedestrians  in  short 
Hack  gaiters,  walking  **  into  Spain,*' 
as  they  call  it,  where  none  but  long  and 
yellow  ones  are  worn  :  then  the  shoals 
of  babies,  nursery-maids,  men,  women, 
and  everything,  vividly  recall  Gosport 
and  Chatham.  Spain  completely  va- 
nishes and  England  reappears  after 
passing  the  "  Lines,*'  as  the  frontier 
boundaries  are  called.  The  civil  and 
military  establishments  of  Spain,  every- 
where rather  out  of  elbows,  are  no- 
where more  so  than  here,  where  they 
provoke  the  most  odious  compari- 
sons. These  semi-moor  natives  neither 
see  nor  feel  the  discredit  and  dis- 
grace of  the  contrast.  The  miserable 
hovels  are  the  fit  lair  of  hungry 
bribetaking  officials,  who  exist  on  the 
crumbs  of  "  the  Rock,"  one  broad- 
side from  which  would  sweep  every- 
thing from  the  face  of  the  earth. 
These  "  Lines  *'  were  once  most  for- 
midable, as  Philip  V.  erected  here,  in 
1731,  two  superb  forts,  now  heaps  of 
ruins ;  one  was  called  after  his  tutelar 


Eonda  ^  Granada,    route  23. — san  roque — Gibraltar. 


269 


saint,  Felipe,  the  other  after  Santa 
Barbara,  the  patroness  of  Spanish  artil- 
lery. The  British  agent  at  Madrid  was 
instructed  to  remonstrate  against  the 
works,  but  he  wrote  back  in  reply,  "  I 
was  assured  if  the  whole  universe 
should  fall  on  the  king  to  make  him  de- 
sist, he  would  rather  let  himself  be  cut 
to  pieces  than  consent"  (Cox,  Bourb.  iii. 
240).  They  were  so  strong,  that  when 
the  French  adyanced  in  the  last  war, 
the  modem  Spaniards,  unable  eyen  to 
destroy  them,  called  in  the  aid  of  our 
engineers  under  Col.  Harding,  by 
whom  they  were  effectually  disman- 
tled :  this  is  at  least  a  fait  accompli, 
and  they  never  ought  to  be  allowed  to 
be  rebuilt,  since  to  raise  works  before 
a  fortress  is  a  declaration  of  war ;  and 
as  Buonaparte's  announced  intention 
was  to  take  Gibraltar,  Sir  Colin  Camp- 
bell was  perfectly  justified .  in  clearing 
them  away,  eyen  without  the  Spani- 
ards* permission,  to  say  nothing  of 
their  haying  petitioned  him  to  do  so. 

Now  this  destruction,  a  work  of 
absolute  necessity  against  the  worst 
foe  of  England  and  Spain,  is  made, 
with  La  China  and  San  Sebastian  (see 
Index),  one  of  the  standing  libels 
against  us  by  the  Afrancesados.  For- 
tunate indeed  was  it  for  many  Spa- 
niards that  Campbell  did  destroy  these 
lines,  for  thus  Ballesteros  and  his 
bigoiios  was  saved  from  French  pursuit 
and  annihilation  by  skulking  under 
our  guns  (Disp.,  Dec.  12, 1811).  Fer- 
dinand YII.  was  no  sooner  r^laced 
on  his  throne  by  British  arms,  than 
this  very  Ballesteros  urged  his  grate- 
ful master  to  reconstruct  these  works, 
as  both  dangerous  and  offensiye  to 
England.  Gen.  Don,  governor  of  Gib- 
raltar, thereupon  said  to  the  Spanish 
commander  at  Algeciras.  **  If  you  be- 

fin,  I  will  fire  a  gun ;  if  that  won't 
o,  I  shall  fire  another;  and  if  yon 
persevere,  you  shall  have  a  broadside 
from  the  galleries."  If  Spain  meant 
to  retain  the  power  of  putting  these 
lines  m  statu  quo  after  our  expulsion  of 
the  French,  she  should  have  stipulated 
for  this  right  to  rebuild  them,  pre- 
viously to  begging  us  to  raze  them  for  her. 
Beyond  these  lines  are  rows  of 
centry-boxes  which  enkennel  the  gaunt 


Spanish  sentinels,  who  guard  their 
frontier  on  the  espanta  lobos  or  scare- 
crow principle.  These  ill-appointed 
Bisoiios,  types  of  Icravm,  Egestas,  stand 
like  the  advanced  sentinels  of  Virgil's 
infernal  regions, 

"  Et  metus  et  malesuada  fames  et  turpis  Egestas 
Uorribilesvisu"— 

A  narrow  flat  strip  of  sand  culled  the 
"  neutral  ground,'  separates  the  Ilock 
from  the  mainland ;  seen  from  a  dis- 
tance, it  seems  an  island,  as  it  un< 
doubtedly  once  was.  The  barren, 
cinder-looking,  sunburnt  mass  is  no 
unfit  sample  of  tawny  Spain,  while  the 
rope-of-sand  connection  is  a  symbol  of 
the  disunion,  long  the  inherent  weak- 
ness of  the  unamalgamating  compo- 
nent items  of  Iberia. 

Cross  however  that  strip,  and  all  is 
changed,  as  by  ma^ic,  into  the  order, 
preparation,  organization,  discipline, 
wealth,  AoTJour,  and  power  of  the  United 
Kingdom — of  Britannia,  the  Pallas 
or  armed  wisdom  of  Europe.  The  N. 
side  of  Gibraltar  rises  bluffly,  and 
bristles  with  artilleiy^ :  the  dotted  port- 
holes of  the  batteries,  excavated  in  the 
rock,  are  called  by  the  Spaniards  "  las 
dientes  de  la  vieja,  the  grinders  of  this 
stem  old  Cerbera.  The  town  is  si- 
tuated on  a  shelving  ledge  to  the  W. 
As  we  approach  the  defences  are  mul- 
tiplied :  the  causeway  is  carried  over  a 
marsh  called  "  the  inundation,"  which 
can  be  instantaneously  laid  under 
water;  every  bastion  is  defended  by 
another;  guns  stand  out  from  each 
embrasure,  pregnant  with  death, — a 
prospect  not  altogether  pleasant  to  the 
stranger,  who  hurries  on  for  fear  of  an 
accident.  At  every  turn  a  well-ap- 
pointed, well-fed  sentinel  indicates  a 
watchfulness  which  defies  surprise. 
We  pass  on  through  a  barrack  teeming 
with  soldiers'  wives  and  children,  a 
perfect  rabbit-warren  when  compared 
to  the  conventual  celibacy  of  a  Spanish 
"  quartel." 

'The  traveller  who  lands  by  the 
steamer — Gibraltar  is  some  1540  miles 
from  Southampton — will  be  tormented 
by  cads  and  toiders,  who  clamorously 
canvass  him  to  put  up  at  their  respec- 
tive inns. 


270 


ROUTE  23. GIBRALTAR. 


Sect.  III. 


"  Club-house  Hotel "  is  good  and 
reasonable ;  rooms  cool,  large,  and 
airy ;  very  prudent  travellers  may  agree 
about  prices  beforehand :  **  Griffith's 
Hotel,"  table  d'hote,  at  2s.  6c/.  ♦*  Da- 
moulin's  French  Hotel,"  Foiida  de 
E'U'opci,  cheap  and  airy.  Parker's 
Hotely  Calle  lic-il,  cheaper ;  Elias 
Natson  there  is  a  good  guide.  At 
**  Griffith's "  is  one  Messias,  a  Jew 
(called  Rafael  in  Spain),  who  is  a 
capital  guide  both  here  and  through- 
out Andalucia.  The  hospitality  of  the 
Rock  is  unbounded,  and,  perhaps,  the 
endless  dinnering  is  one  of  the  greatest 
changes  from  the  hungry  and  thirsty 
unsocial  Spain.  As  there  are  generally 
5  regiments  in  garrison,  the  messes  are 
on  a  grand  scale.  But  death  is  in  the 
pot,  and  some  faces  of "  yours "  and 
"  ours*'  glow  redder  than  their  jack- 
ets ;  so  much  for  the  tendency  to  fever 
and  inflammations  induced  by  carrying 
the  domestics  iand  gastnmomics  of 
cool  damp  England  to  this  arid  and 
torrid  "  Rock.*  This  garrison,  one  of 
the  strictest  in  the  world,  is  a  capital 
school  for  young  officers  to  learn  their 
duty. 

This  being  a  fortress,  on  war  footing, 
strict  precautions  are  of  course  taken ; 
everything  is  on  the  alert ;  the  gates 
are  shut  at  sunset  and  not  opened  until 
sunrise,  and  after  midnight  civilians 
used  to  be  obliged  to  carry  a  lantern ; 
nor  is  any  one  allowed  out  after  mid- 
night, except  officers  and  those  passed 
by  them.  No  foreigner  can  reside  on 
the  Rock  without  some  consul  or 
householder  becoming  his  surety  and 
responsible  for  his  conduct.  These 
precautions  are  absolutely  necessary, 
as  this  place  can  never  be  taken  ex- 
cept by  treason,  and  many  are  those 
who,  under  a  species  of  cordial  under- 
standing, conceal  a  deadly  arriere 
pens^e  of  hatred.  Gibraltar  ("L'om- 
brageuse  puissance.'* — Maison^  p.  504) 
is  excessively  displeasing  to  all  French 
tourists :  sometimes  there  is  too  great 
a  "  luxe  de  canons  in  this  fortress  or- 
nee;"  then  the  gardens  destroy  "  wild 
nature,"  in  short,  they  abuse  the  red 
^ckets,  guns,  nursery-maids,  and  even 
monkei/s :  ever  perfidious,  say  they, 
^  ambitious  aggression  of  England. 


The  truth  simply  is,  that  this  key  of 
their  lake  is  too  strong,  and  can't  be 
taken  by  th^r  fleets  and  armies. 

There  is  no  real  difficulty  with  re- 
spectable foreigners,  who  find  plenty 
of  persons  ready  to  be  security  for 
their  good  behaviour:  permits  to  re- 
side are  granted  by  the  police  magis- 
trate for  10,  15,  or  20  days..  Military 
officers  have  the  privilege  of  intro- 
ducing a  stranger  lor  30  days,  which 
with  characteristic  gallantry  is  gene- 
rally exercised  in  favour  of  the  Spanish 
fair  sex.  Those  who  wish  to  draw  or 
to  ramble  unmolested  over  the  rock 
should  obtain  a  card  from  the  town- 
major,  which  operates  as  a  passport. 

Spanish  money  is  current  at  Gibral- 
tar, but  some  changes  have  been  made. 


Doubloon  (or  onza,  at  52i. 

the  dollar)  .  .  •  • 
i  ditto  ditto  .... 
Four-dollar  piece  .  .  . 
Dollar,  pillared,  Mexican  or 

Colombian      .... 
i  ditto,  Spanish      .     .     . 
i  ditto  ditto,  or  6-real  pieee 
Reale  j  media  •     .     .     . 

En^ish  penny  .... 

Ditto    halfpenny      .     . 

Ditto  fartbing  .  .  . 
Chavo,  half  an  English  far 

thing,  or  i  quarto    .     . 


D. 


15 
S 
4 


Q. 


8 
12 
4 
21 
1 


£. 


8. 


rf. 


>'4 


14 
It 

4 
2 

1 


» 


0  6i 
0  3i 


I 

i 


Mem. — English  silver  coins  are  scarcely  ever 
used  except  by  traveDers.  The  value  of  a 
shilling  is  only  \\d.  in  mixed  copper  and 
silver  money,  or  2  reals  and  1 1  quartos ;  Eng- 
lish 6d.  changes  for  5^4.  or  1  real  6  quartos. 
The  copper  coins  are  a  mixture,  a  few  from 
every  nation :  none  go  for  more  than  2  quartos^ 
except  tlte  English  penny. 

The  English  at  Gibraltar  have  An- 
glicized Spanish  moneys ;  the  letters 
D,  R,  and  Q,  above,  mean  dollars, 
dtiroSf  royals,  reales,  and  quarts,  quartos^ 
The  onza  is  called  the  doubloon^  and  the 
pesos  faertes  "  hard  dollars  :**  each  is 
divided  into  12  imaginary  reals,  and 
each  real  into  16  quarts;  besides  this 
the  English  have  coined  2  quarts  and 
1  quarts,  i.  e,  half-pence  and  farthings, 
with  the  Queen's  head  and  reverse  a 
castle.  Much  bother  and  considerable 
quiet  cheating  arises  from  people  ask- 
ing prices  in  shillings  and  sixpences. 


Ronda  ^  Granada,         route  23. — Gibraltar. 


271 


by  which,  as  .they  are  to  be  paid  for 
in  Spanish  moneys,  the  traveller  is 
**  done :"  a  prudent  man  will  always 
bargain  in  the  coins  of  the  country. 
The  comparative  value  of  English 
and  Spanish  moneys  has  been  fixed 
by  proclamation  at  50  pence  the  dol- 
lar, and  at  this  exchange  the  civil 
officers  and  troops  are  paid.  The  real 
value  of  the  dollar  varies  in  mercantile 
transactions  according  to  the  exchange, 
bemg  sometimes  as  low  as  48  pence,  at 
other  times  as  high  as  54.  Letters  of 
credit  on  the  principal  Spanish  towns 
can  be  procured  from  the  Gibraltar 
merchants,  Mr.  S.  Benoliel,  Turner  and 
Co.,  or  Messrs.  Cavalleros  and  Mr. 
Rowswell. 

At  Gibraltar,  amon^  other  things 
which  are  rare  in  Spam,  is  a  capital 
English  and  foreign  library,  csdled 
"  the  Garrison  Library ;"  planned  in 
1793  by  Col.  Drinkwater,  and  com- 
pleted at  the  public  expense  by  Mr. 
Pitt,  it  contains,  besides  newspapers 
and  periodicals,  a  well-selected  collec- 
tion of  some  20,000  volumes. 

Here  let  the  traveller,  with  the  sweet 
bay  and  Africa  before  him,  a  view 
seldom  rivalled,  and  never  to  be  for- 
gotten, and  seated  on  an  easy  chair, 
^which  is  not  a  cosa  de  Espand)  look 
through  JDescripcion  de  Gibraltar ,  Fran- 
cisco Perez,  4to.,  Mad.  1636,  or  the  ex- 
cellent Historia  de  Gibraltar,  by  Ignacio 
Lopez  de  Ayala,  Mad.  1782.  Three 
books  of  this  work  were  put  forth 
just  when  all  the  eyes  of  Europe  were 
bent  on  the  "  Rock,"  which  the  Count 
d*Artois  (Charles  X.)  came  to  take, 
and  did  not.  The  4th  was  never  pub- 
lished, and  the  why  will  be  found 
in  the  History  of  the  Siege,  by  Col. 
Drinkwater,  1783,  and  republished  by 
Murray,  1844.  It  details  the  defence, 
and  utter  frustration,  by  sea  and  land, 
of  the  combined  fleets  and  armies  of 
Spain  and  France.  •  The  History  of  t?ie 
Herculean  Straits,  by  Col.  James,  2 
vols.  4to.,  London,  1771,  is  a  mass  of 
dull  matter,  handled  in  an  uncritical 
manner.  The  "  Pillars  of  Hercules," 
by  Mr.  Urquhart,  are  the  Ne  plus 
Ultra  of  nonsense.  See  our  paper 
inklings  on  it  in  the  Quarterly,  No. 
clxxii.     There  is  a  small  Handbook  for 


Gibraltar,  London,  1844,  and  a  work 
on  its  botany  and  geology,  Flora  Gal- 
pensi§,  by  Dr.  Kelaart ;  but  the  ablest 
work,  scientific  and  nautical,  is  the 
*  Mediterranean*  8vo.  1854,  by  Admiral 
Smyth.  Rowswell  and  Bartolots  are 
the  best  booksellers  on  the  Rock. 

The  bay  is  formed  by  2  headlands, 
by  Europa  Point  on  the  Rock,  and  by 
Cabrita  in  Spain.  Its  greatest  width 
from  E.  to  W.  is  5  m.,  its  greatest 
length  from  N.  to  S.  about  8 ;  the  depth 
in  the  centre  exceeds  100  fathoms. 
The  anchorage  is  not,  however,  very- 
good,  and  the  bay  is  open  and  much 
exposed,  especially  to  the  S.W.  winds ; 
then  the  vessels  tug  at  their  cables  like 
impatient  horses,  and  when  they  do 
break  loose,  get  stranded.  The  wind 
currents  generally  sweep  up  and  down 
through  this  funnel,  "  the  straights." 
The  B.  or  Levante  causes  terrible  losses 
in  the  bay,  and  is  termed  the  tyrant 
of  Gibraltar,  while  the  west  is  hailed 
as  the  liberator.  The  old  mole  offers 
a  sort  of  protection  to  small  craft: 
notwithstanding  the  commerce  that 
is  carried  on,  there  are  few  of  its  ap- 
pliances—quays, wharfs,  docks,  and 
warehouses — for  even  the  English  seem 
paralysed  in  this  climate  of  Spain. 
The  tide  rises  about  4  ft.  The  Rock 
consists  principally  of  grey  limestone 
of  the  oolitic  period  and  marble ;  the 
highest  point  is  about  1430  ft.,  the 
circumference  about  6  m.,  the  length 
from  N.  to  S.  about  3.  It  has  been 
uplifted  at  a  comparatively  recent 
epoch,  as  a  sea-beach  exists  450  feet 
above  the  water's  level. 

The  Rock  was  well  known  to  the 
ancients,  but  never  inhabited ;  nor  is 
there  any  mention  of  any  town  on  it. 
The  Phcenicians  called  it  Alube;  this 
the  Greeks  corrupted  into  Kakvl^r, 
KaXcrtit  Gaipe,  and  then,  defying  nature 
as  audaciously  as  etymology,  they  said 
it  signified  "  a  bucket,"  to  which  shape 
they  compared  the  rock — **  a  tub  to  a 
whale."  Calpe  has  been  interpreted 
Ca-alpe,  the  cavern  of  God,  and  as 
Cal-be,  the  watching  at  night.  Gal, 
Goll,  Gala,  is,  however,  a  common  pre- 
fix to  Iberian  and  Oriental  terms  of 
height  and  fortress.  Ayala  derives 
Galpe  from  the  Hebrew  and  the  Phoe- 


272 


ROUTE  23. —  GIBRALTAR. 


Sect.  III. 


nician  Galp\  Calphf  a  caved  mountain, 
and  rejects  the  Galfa  or  Calpe,  quasi 
Urna.  Calpe  was  the  European,  and 
Ahula  the  "  lofty"  (the  rock  of  Abel), 
the  African  pillar  of  Hercules,  the  ne 
phis  i^^ra  land  and  sea  marks  of  jealous 
Phoenician  monopoly :  here,  in  the 
urords  of  Ariosto,  was  the  goal  beyond 
which  strangers  never  were  permitted 
to  navigate;  La  meta  que  posse  ai 
primi  naviganti  Ercole  invitto.  The 
Komans  are  thought  never  to  have 
really  penetrated  beyond  these  keys  of 
the  outer  sea,  or  the  Atlantic,  before 
the  reign  of  Augustus  (Floras,  iv.  12). 
Ahylny  Abel,  Harbel,  which  according 
to  many  signified  the  "mountain  of 
God,"  rises  some  2200  feet.  Of  this 
name  the  Elnglish  made  their  "  Ape*s 
hill,"  a  better  corruption,  at  least,  than 
the  Greek  "  bucket.^'  The  Moors  call 
it  Gibel  Mo-osa,  the  Hill  of  Musa.  The 
Spanish  name  is  Caho  de  Bulkmes^  Cape 
of  Knobs.  Be  these  names  what  they 
may,  the  high  rocky  fronts  of  each 
continent  remain  the  two  metaphorical 
pillars  of  Hercules ;  and  as  what  they 
originally  were  was  an  unsettled  ques- 
tion in  Strabo*s  time  (iii.  258),  they 
now  may  be  left  in  peace.  Joseph 
Buonaparte,  Feb.  1,  1810,  decreed  the 
erection  of  a  third  pillar ;  "  Le  Roi 
d'Espagne  vent  que  entre  les  colonnes 
d'llercule  s'elfeve  une  troisi^me,  qui 
porte  k  la  posterity  la  pins  reculiee  et 
aux  navigateurs  des  deux  mondes  la 
connaissance  des  chefs  et  des  corps 
qui  ont  repousses  les  Anglais"  (Bel- 
mas,  i.  424),  and  this  near  Tarifa, 
Barrosa,  and  Trafalgar ! ! !  Compare 
this  with  his  brother's  bully  pillar  at 
Boulogne  that  lifts  its  head  and  lies, 
and  the  medal,  prepared  before  hand, 
but  not  issued.  Descente  en  Angleterrc, 
frapp^  a  Londres  !  I 

In  the  mean  time  Gibraltar  bears  the 
name  of  its  Berber  conqueror,  Gebal 
Turik,  the  hill  of  Tarik,  who  landed, 
as  Gayangos  has  demonstrated,  on 
Thursday,  April  30,  711.  He  contri- 
buted much  to  the  conquest  of  Spain, 
and  was  rewarded  by  the  khalif  of 
Damascus  with  disgrace.  Tarik  was 
a  true  Pizarro ;  he  killed  his  prisoners, 
and  served  them  up  as  rations  to  his 
troops  (Reinaud,    *  Inv,  des  Saracins,*  | 


5).  This  delicacy  formed  a  rechauffe 
in  modern  Spanish  bills  of  fare :  the 
entr€e  was  pleasantly  called  un  guisado 
a  la  Qiieaada,  the  patrotic  nacionales 
having  killed  and  eaten  part  of  that 
rough  and  tough  royalist  m  1836. 

The  fierce  Berbers  had  for  ages  be- 
fore looked  from  the  heights  of  the 
Rif  on  Spain  as  their  own,  and  as  the 
land  of  their  Carthaginian  forefathers : 
many  were  their  efforts  to  reconquer 
it,  even  during  the  Roman  rule,  from 
the  age  of  Antoninus  (Jul.  13)  to  that 
of  Severus  (^lian  Sp.  64).  These  in- 
vasions «were  renewed  under  the  Goths, 
especiaUy  in  the  7th  century  (see 
Isidore  Pac.  i.  3).  Their  attempts 
failed  so  long  as  the  Spaniards  were 
strong,  but  succeeded  when  the  Gothic 
house  was  divided  against  itself. 

Gibraltar  was  first  taken  from  the 
Moors,  in  1309,  by  Guzman  el  Baeno ; 
but  they  regained  it  in  1333,  the  Spa- 
nish governor,  Vasco  Perez  de  Meyra, 
having  appropriated  the  money  des- 
tined for  Its  defence  in  buying  estates 
for  himself  at  Xerez  {Chro.  Alons.  xi. 
117).  It  was  finally  recovered  in  1462 
by  another  of  the  Guzmans,  and  incor- 
porated with  the  Spanish  crown  in 
1502.  The  arms  are  "  gules,  a  castle 
or,  and  a  key,"  it  being  the  key  of  the 
Straits.  Gibraltar  was  much  strength- 
ened by  Charles  V.  in  1562,  who 
employed  Juan  Baut*.  Calvi  in  raising 
defences  against  Barbarossa. 

Gibraltar,  on  which  our  sagacious 
Cromwell  had  an  eye,  was  captured 
during  the  War  of  the  Succession  by 
Sir  George  Rooke,  Jiriy  24,  1704,  who 
attacked  it  suddenly,  and  found  it 
garrisoned  by  only  80  men,  who  im- 
mediat^y  had  recourse  to  relics  and 
saints.  AH  ran  away  except  the  curate 
of  Santa  Maria,  who  was  accused  of 
remaining  to  "  steal  the  sacramental 
plate"  (Ayala,  p.  325).  This  good 
priest  rescued  a  San  Jos€  from  the 
heretics  by  putting  the  image  on  a 
mule  and  passing  the  saint  for  a  living 
sinner.  Thus  -rEneas  fled  with  his 
Penates,  and  so  the  Goths  transported 
their  relics  to  the  Asturias  when  Toledo 
was  captured  by  the  infidels.  G  ibraltar 
was  then  taken  by  us  in  the  name  of  the 
Archduke  Charles,  and  another  stone 


Eonda  5"  Gi'anada.        route  23. — Gibraltar — the  siege. 


273 


fell  from  the  vast  but  ruinous  edifice 
of  the  Spanish  monarchy:  but  George  1. 
would  have  given  it  up  at  the  peace  of 
Utrecht,  so  little  did  he  estimate  its 
worth,  and  the  nation  thought  it  a 
"^barren  rock,  an  insignificant  fort, 
and  a  useless  char^/*  So  it  was  again 
offered  to  Spain  if  she  would  refuse 
to  sell  Florida  to  Buonaparte.  What 
its  real  value  is  as  regards  Spain  will 
be  understood  by  supposing  Portland 
Island  to  be  in  thehandsof  an  enemj. 
It  is  a  bridle  in  the  mouth  of  Spam 
and  Barbary.  It  speaks  a  language  of 
power,  which  alone  is  understood  and 
obeyed  by  those  cognate  nations.  The 
Spaniards  never  knew  the  value  of  this 
natural  fortress  until  its  loss,  which 
wounds  their  national  pride,  and  led 
•Buonaparte,  when  he  found  he  could 
not  take  it,  to  say,  that  while  it  opened 
nothing  and  shut  nothing,  our  posses- 
sion of  Gibraltar  secured  for  France 
Spain's  hatred  of  England.  Yet  Gib- 
raltar in  the  hands  of  England  is  a 
safeguard  that  Spain  never  can  become 
quite  a  French  province,  or  the  Medi- 
terranean a  French  lake.  Hence  the 
Bourbons  north  of  the  Pyrenees,  have 
urged  their  poor  kinsmen  -  tools  to 
make  gigantic  efforts  to  pluck  out  this 
thorn  in  their  path. 

The  siege    by   France   and    Spain 
lasted  4  years.     Then   the  very  in- 

fenious  Mons.  d*Arqon*s  incincible 
oating  batteries,  that  could  neither 
be  burnt,  sunk,  nor  taken,  were  soon 
either  burnt,  sunk,  or  taken  by  plain 
Englishmen,  who  stood  to  their  guns, 
on  the  13th  of  Sept.  1783.  There- 
upon Charles  X.,  then  Count  d'Artois, 
who  had  posted  from  Paris  to  have 
glory  thrust  upon  him,  posted  back 
again,  after  the  precedent  of  his 
ancestors,  those  kings  with  20,000 
men,  who  march  up  hills,  and  then 
march  back  again.  He  concealed  his 
disgrace  under  a  scurvv  jest :  *'  La  bat- 
terie  la  plus  effective  lut  ma  batterie 
de  cuisine."  Old  Eliott  stood  during 
the  glorious  day  on  the  "  King's  Bas- 
tion," which  was  erected  in  1773,  by 
Gen.  Boyd,  who,  in  laying  the  first 
stone,  prayed  "  to  live  to  see  it  resist 
the  united  fleets  of  France  and  Spain." 
His  prayer  was  granted ;  there  he  died 


contented,  and  lies  buried  in  it,  a 
fitting  tomb ;  Gloria  autem  minime  con- 
sepuita, 

Gibraltar  is  now  a  bright  pearl  in 
the  Ocean  Queen's  crown.  It  is,  as 
Burke  said, "  a  post  of  power,  a  post  of 
superiority,  of  connexion,  of  commerce ; 
one  which  makes  us  invaluable  to  our 
friends  and  dreadful  to  our  enemies." . 
Its  importance,  as  a  depot  for  coal,  is 
increased  since  steam  navigation.  Sub- 
sequently to  the  storming  of  Acre,  new 
batteries  have  been  erected  to  meet  this 
new  mode  of  warfare.  Sir  John  Jones 
was  sent  out  in  1840,  and  under  his 
direction  tremendous  bastions  were 
made  at  Europa  Point,  Ragged  Staff, 
and  near  the  Alameda ;  whUe  heavier 
guns  were  mounted  on  the  mole  and 
elsewhere.  Nor  need  it  be  feared 
that  the  bastions  and  example  of  Boyd 
will  ever  want  an  imitator  in  saoula 
saculorum, 

Gibraltar  is  said  to  contain  between 
15,000  and  20,000  Inhab.,  exclusive 
of  the  military.  In  daytime  it  looks 
more  peopled  than  it  really  is,  from 
the  number  of  sailors  on  shore,  and 
Spaniards  who  go  out  at  gun-fire.  The 
differences  of  nations  and  costumes 
are  very  curious :  a  motley  masquerade 
is  held  in  this  halfway  house  between 
Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,where  every 
man  appears  in  his  own  dress  and 
speaks  his  own  language.  Civilization 
and  barbarism  clash  here  indeed.  The 
Cockney,  newly  imported  in  a  week 
per  steamer  from  London,  is  reading 
this  *  Handbook '  while  seated  near  a 
black  date-merchant  from  the  borders 
of  the  deserts  of  Timbuctoo,  each 
staring  at,  and  despising  his  nonde- 
script neighbour.  The  Bock  is  a  Babel 
of  liEtnguages,  and  "  you  don't  under- 
stand us  "  is  the  order  of  most  market- 
places. Of  foreigners,  the  Jews,  who 
are  always  out  of  doors,  are  the  dirti- 
est ;  the  Moors  the  cleanest  and  best 
behaved;  the  Ronda  smuggler  the  most 
picturesque.  The  British  houses,*  the 
rent  of  which  is  very  dear,  are  built 
on  the  stuffy  Wapping  principle,  with 
a  Genoese  exterior;  all  is  brick  and 
plaster  and  wood-work,  cribbed  and 
confined,  and  filled  with  curtains  and 
carpets,  on  purpose  to  breed  verm' 

N  3 


274 


ROUTE  23. — GIBRALTER — ^THE  FEVER. 


Sect.  III. 


and  fever  in  this  semi-African  hotbed  ; 
calculated  to  let  in  the  enemy,  heat, 
so  that  Nelson,  who  dearly  as  he  loved 
the  "old  Rock,"  hoped  that  all  the 
small  houses  at  its  back  might  be 
burnt ;  "  perhaps  if  half  the  town  went 
with  them  it  would  be  better."  (Desp. 
March  20,1805.) 

These  ill-contrived  tenements  are 
fit  only  for  salamanders  and  "  scor- 
pions,'' as  those  born  on  the  Rock 
are  called.  The  monkeys,  in  fact, 
are  the  oldest  and  wisest  denizens 
of  the  Rock,  as  they  live  cool  and 
comfortable  on  the  sea-blown  cliffs. 
The  narrow  streets  are  worthy  of  these 
nut-shell  houses ;  they  are,  except  the 
Main  Street,  ycleped  "  lanes,"  e.  g. 
Bomb-house  lime  and  Horse-barrack 
Lane.  Few  genuine  Moro-Peninsular 
towns  have  any  streets  ;  the  honesty  of 
England  scorns  the  exaggerations  of 
Spanish  Calles,  and  calls  things  here  by 
their  right  names ;  in  fact,  this  and  most 
things  show  that  the  bold  Briton  is  an 
interloper,  and  not  "  of  the  country." 
But  John  Bull,  like  the  snail,  loves  to 
carry  his  native  shell  with  him,  irre- 
spective of  changes  of  climate  or  habits 
of  different  conditions  and  necessities. 

The  "  Main,  or  Waterport  Street," 
the  aorta  of  Gibraltar,  is  the  antithesis 
of  a  Spanish  town.  Lions  and  Britan- 
nias  dangle  over  innumerable  pot- 
houses, the  foreign  names  of  whose 
proprietors  combine  strangely  with  the 
Queen's  English.  **  Manuel  Ximenez 
— lodgings  and  neat  liquors."  In  these 
signs,  and  in  the  surer  signs  of  bloated 
faces,  we  see  that  we  have  passed  from 
a  land  of  sobriety  into  a  den  of  gin 
and  intemperance ;  every  thing  and 
body  is  in  motion ;  there  is  no  quiet, 
no  repose  ;  all  is  hurry  and  scurry,  for 
time  is  money,  and  Mammon  is  the 
god  of  Gib.,  as  the  name  is  vulgarized, 
according  to  the  practice  of  abbrevi- 
ators  and  settlers  of  "  Boney."  The 
entire  commerce  of  the  Peninsula 
seems  condensed  into  thismicrocosmus, 
where  all  creeds  and  nations  meet,  and 
most  of  them  adepts  at  the  one  grand 
game  of  beggar  my  neighbour. 

The  principal  square  is  the  "  Com- 
mercial."    Here  are  situated  the  best 
otels  and  the  "  Public  Exchange,"  a 


mean  building,  decorated  with  a  bust 
of  Gen.  Don.  Here  are  a  library 
and  newspapers,  and  a  club,  to  which 
travellers,  especially  mercantile,  are 
readily  admitted.  In  this  square, 
during  the  day,  sales  by  auction  take 
place;  the  whole  scene  in  the  open  air, 
combined  with  the  variety  of  costume, 
is  truly  peculiar.  The  out-of-doors 
dress  of  the  females  is  a  red  cloak 
and  hood,  edged  with  black  velvet  of 
Genoese  extraction. 

Gibraltar  has  one  great  comfort. 
Tliere  are  no  custom-houses,  no  odious 
searchings'  of  luggage  ;  almost  every- 
thing is  alike  free  to  be  imported  or 
exported.  Accordingly,  the  barren 
Rock,  which  in  itself  produces  nothing 
and  consumes  everything,  is  admirably 
supplied.  This  ready-money  market 
infuses  life  into  the  Spanish  vicinity, 
which  exists  by  furnishing  vegetables 
and  other  articles  of  consumption : 
the  beef,  which  is  not  a  thing  of  Spain, 
comes  from  Barbary.  Gibraltar  is 
very  dear,  especially  house-rent,  wages, 
and  labour  of  all  kinds.  It  is  a  dull 
place  of  residence  to  those  who  are 
neither  merchants  nor  military.  The 
climate  is  peculiarly  fatal  to  children 
during  early  dentition  ;  otherwise  it  is 
healthy ;  disagreeable,  however,  during 
the  prevalence  of  easterly  winds,  when 
a  misty  vapour  hangs  over  the  summit 
of  the  Rock,  and  the  nerves  of  man 
and  beast  are  grievously  affected. 

The  Gibraltar  fever,  about  which 
doctors  have  disagreed  so  much,  the 
patients  dying  in  the  mean  while,  como 
chinches,  is  most  probably  endemic ;  it 
is  nurtured  in  Hebrew  dirt,  fed  by 
want  of  circulati6n  of  air  and  offensive 
sewers  at  low  tide.  It  is  called  into 
fatal  activity  by  some  autumnal  atmo- 
spherical peculiarity.  The  average 
visitation  is  about  every  twelve  years. 
The  quarantine  regulations,  especially 
as  regards  ships  coming  from  the  Ha- 
vana and  Alexandria,  are  severe :  they 
are  under  the  control  of  the  captain  of 
the  port.  There  is  an  excellent  civil 
hospital  here,  arranged  in  1815  by 
Gen.  Don,  in  which  I*rotestants,  Ro- 
man Catholics,  and  Jews  have  their 
wards  separate,  like  their  creeds. 

Gibraltar  was  made  a  free  port  by 


Eonda  ^  Granada.        route  23. — Gibraltar — tke  jews. 


275 


Queen  Anne;  and  the  sooner  some 
change  is  made  the  better,  for  the 
"  Rock,"  like  Algeria,  is  a  refuge  for 
destitute  scamps,  and  is  the  asylum  of 
people  of  all  nations  who  expatriate 
themselves  for  their  country's  good. 
Here  revolutions  are  plotted  against 
friendly  Spain  ;  here  her  revenue  is 
defrauded  by  smugglers,  and  particu- 
larly by  alien  cigar-makers,  who  thus 
interfere  with  the  only  active  manufac- 
ture of  Spain. 

Gibraltar  is  the  grand  dep6t  for 
English  goods,  especially  cottons, 
which  are  smuggled  into  Spain,  along 
the  whole  coast  from  Cadiz  to  Beni- 
dorme,  to  the  great  benefit  of  the 
Spanish  authorities,  placed  nominally 
to  prevent  what  they  really  encourage. 
The  S.  of  Spain  is  thus  supplied  with 
as  much  of  our  wares  as  it  is  enabled 
to  purchase,  nor  would  any  treaty  of 
commerce  much  increase  the  consump- 
tion. 

Recently  some  reforms  have  been 
made  in  Gibraltar,  long  a  spot  of 
much  mismanagement  and  expense, 
which  now  pays  the  governor  and 
civil  officers,  &c.  It  is  cleansed  and 
lighted  by  a  rate  on  houses.  Spirits 
pay  a  considerable,  and  wine,  tobacco, 
and  licences  a  small  duty.  The  mili- 
tary officers  are  paid  by  government, 
to  whom  Gibraltar  is  a  most  valuable 
d^p6t  for  shipping  troops  to  the  colo- 
nies ;  and  the  new  fortifications  have 
naturally  been  paid  for  at  the  cost  of 
the  mother  state. 

The  "  Rock,"  in  religious  toleration, 
or  rather  indifference,  is  again  the 
antithesis  of  Spain.  Here  all  creeds 
are  free,  and  all  agree  in  exclusive 
money-worship.  There  are  now  two 
bishops  here;  the  elder  is  a  Roman 
Catholic,  and  appointed  by  the  Pope 
in  partibus  infidelium.  The  Santa  Maria 
his  church,  is  poor  and  paltry,  and  very 
unlike  the  gorgeous  pantheons  of  the 
Peninsula.  Here,  in  the  juxta-position 
of  the  Bible,  he  hides  those  "mum- 
meries" which  show  best  by  candlelight. 
Gibraltar,  in  good  old  Roman  Catholic 
times,  had  its  local  saints  and  miracles, 
like  every  other  Spanish  place.  Con- 
sult Portillo,  book  iv.,  SeviUa,  1634; 
and  Ayala's  Historia,     To  them  the 


Spaniards  fled  when  attacked  by  Adm. 
Rooke.  Now  Elliot  and  Boyd  are  th^ 
English  tutelars,  and  the  bastions  and 
galleries  are  their  Milagros^ 

The  Jewish  synagogue  is  noisy  and 
curious ;  the  females  do  not  attend,  as 
it  is  a  moot  point  with  their  Rabbins 
whether  they  have  souls,  to  allow  that 
would  bring  them  to  a  too  near  equality 
with  the  male  sex  ;  nor  do  the  men  pray 
for  them—  at  all  events,  they  only  thank 
God   in   their  orations  that  they  are 
not  women,  who,  be  it  said,  as  far  as 
bodies  and  beauty  go,  are  often  angels 
ready  made.     There  is  a  ci-demnt  con- 
vent chapel  in  the  governor's  house 
for  Protestants,  and  a  newly  erected 
church  or   cathedral   in  the   Moorish 
style,  and  not  before  it  was  wanted : 
this  was  finished  in  1832,  and  Gibraltar 
has,  at  last,  a  Protestant  bishop ;  and 
thus  at  last  has  been  wiped  out  the  scan- 
dalous neglect  of  all  our  governments 
at  home  for  the  spiritual  wants  and 
religious    concerns    of   its    colonists : 
while  the   activity,   intelligence,  and 
industry  of   England   have    rendered 
every  nook,  of  the  Rock  available  for 
defence,   no    house    until    lately  was 
raised  to  God.      The   colonisation  of 
the  English  Hercules  has  never  been 
marked  by  a  simultaneous  erection  of 
temples  and   warehouses ;   a   century 
elapsed,    in  which  more  money  was 
expended  in  masonry  and  gunpowder 
than  would  have  built  St.  Peter's,  before 
a  Protestant  church  was  erected  in  this 
sink  of  Moslem,  Jewish,  and  Roman 
Catholic  and  Protestant  profligacy. 

The  law  is  administered  here  ac- 
cording to  the  rules  and  cases  of  West- 
minster Hall,  and  those  technicalities 
which  were  meant  for  the  protection 
of  the  innocent,  of  course,  have  become 
the  scapeholes  of  the  worst  of  offenders. 
It  might  be  apprehended  that  a  code 
and  practice  hardly  fitted  by  the  growth 
of  centuries  for  a  free  and  intelligent 
peoj^le  would  not  work  well  in  a 
foreign  garrisofi  with  a  mongrel,  mot- 
ley, dangerous  population,  bred  and 
bom  in  despotism,  accustomed  to  the 
summary  bowstring  of  the  Elaid,  or 
the  cuatro  tiros  of  the  Spaniards ;  ac- 
cordingly, when  gross  violations  of 
international  law  and  common  sense- 


276 


ROUTE  23. — GIBRALTAR — THE  MONKEYS. 


Sect.  III. 


take '  place,  the  Spanish  authorities 
never  give  credit  to  the  excuse  of  the 
English  that  they  are  fettered  by  law, 
and  by  imperfect  power.  As  they  do  not 
believe  us  to  be  fools,  they  set  us  down 
for  liars,  or  as  the  encouragers  of 
abuses  which  we  profess  to  be  unable 
to  prevent;  such,  say  they,  are  the 
tricks  of  "  La  perfide  Albion.** 

Gibraltar  is  soon  seen ;  nowhere  does 
the  idler  sooner  get  bored.  There  is 
neither  letters  nor  fine  art,  the  arts 
of  making  money  and  war  excepted. 
The  governor  of  this  rock  of  Mars  and 
Mammon  resides  at  the  convent,  for- 
merly a  Franciscan  one.  It  is  a  good 
residence.  The  garden,  laid  out  by 
Lady  Don,  is  delicious,  but  Scotch 
horticulture  under  an  Andalucian 
climate  can  wheedle  everything  out  of 
Flora  and  Pomona. 

The  military  traveller  will,  of 
course,  examine  the  defences  and  the 
**  Guards."  He  may  begin  at  "  Land 
Port  ;'*  walk  to  the  head  of  the  Devil's 
Tongue  Battery ;  visit  the  "  Fish-mar- 
ket ;**  observe  the  finny  tribe,  strange 
in  form  and  bright  in  colour :  besides 
these  monsters  of  the  deep,  snails,  toad- 
stools, and  other  delicacies  of  the  season 
are  laid  out  for  your  omnivorous 
foreigner.  The  fish  is  excellent  and 
always  fresh,  for  whatever  is  not  sold 
during  the  day  is  either  given  away 
or  destroyed  at  gun-fire. 

Now  follow  the  sea  or  "  Line  Wall " 
to  the  "  King's  Bastion ;"  give  a  look 
at  the  new  church,  or  cathedral  of 
Holy  Trinity,  a  heavy  semi-Moorish 
temple  for  the  Protestant  bishop  of  the 
Mediterranean  diocese :  in  the  inside 
lies  Gen.  Don,  the  Balbus,  the  Augustus 
of  the  Rock,  which  he  strengthened  and 
embellished ;  his  bones  rest  on  the  site 
which  he  so  loved  and  so  much  benefited. 

Now  pass  out  the  "  South  Port,"  by 
the  gate  and  walls  built  by  Charles  V. 
as  defences  against  the  Turks,  into 
the  Alameda  or  Esplanade,  formerly 
called  the  "  red  sands,"  and  a  burning 
desert  and  a  cloacal  nuisance  until 
converted  by  Gen.  Don,  in  1814,  into 
a  garden  of  sw^Bcts  and  delight,  of 
geranium-^rees  and  bella  sombras;  and 
beautiful  is  shade  on  this  burning 
:  thus  Flora  is  wedded  to  Mars, 


and  the  wrinkled  front  of  a  fortress 
is  smoothed  with  roses.  The  "  guard- 
mountings"  and  parades  take  place  on 
this  open  space ;  the  decorations  of  the 
garden  are  more  military  than  artis- 
tical:  here  is  a  figure-head  of  the 
Spanish  three-decker  **  Don  Juan,"  a 
relic  of  Trafalgar ;  observe  a  caricature 
carving  of  old  Eliott,  surrounded 
with  bombs  as  during  the  siege ;  a 
bronze  bust  of  Wellington  is  placed 
on  an  antique  pillar  brought  from  Le- 
pida,  with  a  doggish  Latin  inscription 
by  a  Dr.  Gregory.  Close  by,  Neptune 
emerges  from  the  jaw-bones  of  a  whale, 
more  like  a  Jonah  than  a  deity ;  under 
the  leafy  avenues  the  fair  sex  listen  to 
the  bands  and  gaze  on  the  plumed 
camp,  being  gazed  at  themselves  by 
the  turbaned  Turk  and  white-robed 
Moor.  At  one  end  of  this  scene  of 
life  is  a  silent  spot  where  officers  alone 
are  buried,  and  into  which  no  "  Nabit- 
ant"  or  "Scorpion"  is  permitted  to 
intrude. 

This  part  of  the  fortress  has  recently 
been  much  strengthened,  and  may  now 
defy  attacks  from  armed  steamers.  A 
very  formidable  work  has  been  sunk 
on  the  glacis,  and  is  christened  Victoria 
battery.  The  new  bastion  running 
from  the  Orange  bastion  to  the  King's, 
and  a  very  magnificent  defence,  bears 
the  name  of  Prince  Albert.  Another, 
from  its  sunken  level  and  zigzag  form, 
is  familiarly  called  the  Snake  in  the 
Grass. 

The  surface  of  the  Rock,  bare  and 
tawny  in  summer,  starts  into  verdure 
with  the  spring  and  autumnal  rains, 
which  call  the  seeds  into  life;  more 
than  400  plants  flourish  on  these  almost 
soilless  crags.  Partridges  and  rabbits 
abound,  being  never  shot  at.  The 
real  lions  of  "  Gib."  are  the  apes,  los 
monos,  for  which  Solomon  sent  to  Tar- 
shish  (1  Kings  x.  22).  They  haunt 
the  highest  points,  and  are  active  as 
the  chamois;  like  delicate  dandies, 
they  are  seldom  seen  except  when  a 
Levanter,  or  E.  wind,  affecting  their 
nerves,  drives  them  to  the  west  end. 
These  exquisites  have  no  tails,  and  are 
very  harmless.  There  is  generally  one, 
a  larger  and  the  most  respectable,  who 
takes  the  command,  and  is  called  the 


Ronda  ^  Granada,         route  23. — Gibraltar. 


277 


"  town-major."  These  monkeys  rob 
the  gardens  when  they  can,  otherwise 
they  live  on  the  sweet  roots  of  the  Pal- 
mito ;  for  them  also  there  is  a  religious 
toleration,  and  they  are  never  molested : 
but  such  is  the  principle  of  English 
colonization,  ne  quiet  a  movere,  "We  do 
not  seek  to  denationalize  the  aborigines, 
whether  men  or  monkeys. 

Mons.  Bory  de  St.  Vincent,  specu- 
lating con  amore  on  "  ces  singes,''  has 
a  notion  that  men  also  came  from 
Africa  into  Spain  (Guide,  237),  and 
hence  into  France.  But  his  learned 
countryman  D'Herrailly,  following 
Ferreras,  opined  that  the  Iberian 
aborigines  arrived  directly  from  heaven 
by  air ;  indeed,  the  critical  historian 
Masdeu,  who  knew  his  countrymen 
better,  had  only  ventured  to  hint  in  1 784 
that  they  might  have  possibly  arrived 
by  land.  Now,  as  far  as  Spain  is 
concerned,  the  monkeys  are  confined 
to  this  rock.  ' 

To  the  rt.  of  the  gardens  are  "  Ragged- 
staff  Stairs  "  (the  ragged  staff  was  one 
of  the  badges  of  Burgundian  Charles 
V.) ;  this  portion,  and  all  about "  Jump- 
er's Batteiy,"  was,  before  the  new 
works,  the  weak  point  of  the  Rock,  and 
here  the  English  landed  under  Adm. 
Rooke.  Ascending  "  Scud  Hill,"  with 
"Windmill  IJill"  above  it,  and  the 
new  mole  and  dockyard  below,  is  the 
shelving  bay  of  Bosia.  Near  this  fresh, 
wind-blown  spot,  which  is  sometimes 
from  5  to  6  degrees  cooler  than  the 
town,  is  the  Naval  Hospital,  and  fine 
Spanish  buildings  called  the  "South 
Barracks  and  Pavilion."  The  "  Flats" 
at  Europa  Point  are  an  open  space  used 
for  manoeuvres  and  recreation.  Gen. 
Don  wished  to  level  and  plant  it,  but 
was  prevented  by  some  engineering 
wiseacres,  who  thought  level  ground 
would  facilitate  the  advance  of  an 
enemy  I  and  the  troops  were  exercised 
on  the  burning  neutral  sands  for  the 
benefit  of  their  legs  and  eyes.  That 
most  expensive  article,  a  eood  English 
soldier,  was  too  long  scandalously  neg- 
lected at  "  Gib.,"  and  in  nothing  more 
than  his  dress,  his  barrack,  and  his 
water;  a  better  order  of  things  was 
commenced  by  Gen.  Don.  Some  new 
tanks  have  recently  been  made  for  each 


barrack.  The  supply,  for  which  the 
soldier  was  charged,  was  brought  in 
(when  the  public  tanks  got  low)  from 
wells  on  the  neutral  ground  at  a  great 
expense.  The  salubrity  of  these  Europa 
Point  and  Windmill  Hill  barracks  is 
neutralized  by  their  distance  from  Gib- 
raltar ;  when  not  on  duty,  the  soldier 
is  in  the  town  or  Rosia  pothouses; 
there  he  remains  until  the  last  mo- 
ment, then  heats  himself  by  hurrying 
back  up  the  ascent,  and  exposing  him- 
self to  draughts  and  night  air,  which 
sow  the  seeds  of  disease  and  death. 
Shade, .  water,  and  vegetables  are  of 
vital  importance  to  soldiers  brought 
from  damp  England  to  this  arid  rock. 
Were  the  crags  coated  properly  with 
the  manure  and  offal  of  the  town,  they 
might  be  carpeted  with  verdure,  and 
made  a  kitchen-garden.  If  ever  Gib- 
raltar be  lost,  it  will  be  from  treachery 
within ;  and  this  was  once  nearlv  the 
case,  from  the  discontent  occasioned 
by  the  over  discipline  of  a  royal  mar- 
tinet governor.  The  evil  will  arise 
should  any  effete  general,  or  one  who 
has  never  seen  active  service,  be  placed 
there  in  command.  He  might  worry 
the  men  and  officers  with  the  minutiae  ^ 
of  pipe-claj^  pedantry:  under  this 
scorching  clime  the  blood  boils,  and 
the  physical  and  moral  forces  become 
irritable,  and  neither  should  be  trifled 
with  unnecessarily. 

The  extreme  end  of  the  Rock  is 
called  "  Europa  Point ;  here,  under 
the  Spaniards,  was  a  chapel  dedicated 
to  la  Virgen  de  Europa^  the  lamp  of 
whose  shrine  served  also  as  a  beacon  to 
mariners ;  thus  quite  supplanting  the 
Venus  of  the  ancients.  Now  a  new 
Protestant  lighthouse  and  batteries 
have  been  erected :  on  the  road  thither 
are  some  charming  glens,  filled  with 
villas  and  gardens ;  albeit  these  pretty 
Rura  in  Marte  savour  more  of  the 
Cockney  than  of  Hercules.  Round  to 
the  E.  is  the  cool  summer  pavilion  of 
the  governor  nestled  under  beetling 
cliffs ;  below  is  a  cave  tunnelled  by  the 
waves :  beyond  this  the  Rock  cannot  be 
passed,  as  the  cliffs  rise  like  walls  out 
of  the  sea.  This  side  is  an  entire  con- 
trast to  the  other :  all  here  is  solitude 
and   inaccessibility,  and  Nature  hf" 


278 


ROUTE  23. — GIBRALTAR, 


Sect.  iir. 


reared  her  own  impregnable  bastions : 
an  excursion  round  in  a  boat  should 
be  made  to  Catalan  Bay.  Returning 
from  this  extreme  point,  visit  St.  Mi- 
chael's Cave,  some  half  way  up  the 
Rock;  here  affairs  of  honour  of  the 
garrison  are,  or  used  to  be,  settled. 
The  interior  of  this  extraordinary 
cavern  is  seen  to  greatest  advantage 
when  illuminated  with  blue-lights: 
after  this  visit  the  Moorish  water- 
tanks,  which  have  offered  both  a  model 
and  an  example  to  ourselves.  The 
naval  commissioner's  house,  on  this 
slope,  long  the  head-quarters  of  job- 
bing, is  the  j)erfection  of  a  Mediterra- 
nean villa.  Among  the  many  caverns 
of  this  Calpe,  or  caved  mountain,  is 
that  called  "  Beefsteak  Cave,"  which 
lies  above  the  flats  of  Europa.  No- 
menclature assuredly  marks  national 
character,  and  this  savours  more  of 
Mons.  Foy*s  beef-fed  Briton  than  of 
the  hungry,  religious,  water-drinking 
Spaniard,  whose  artillery  tank  at 
Brewer's  barracks  below  is  still  called 
'*  Nuns' Well." 

Another  morning  may  be  given  to 
visiting  the  galleries  and  heights :  first 
ascend  to  the  castle,  which  is  one  of 
the  oldest  Moorish  buildings  in  Spain, 
having  been  erected  in  725  (?)  by  Abu 
Abul  Hajez,  as  the  Arabic  inscription 
over  the  S.  gate  records.  The  Torre 
Miycha,  or  Torre  de  Omenaje,  is  riddled 
with  shot-marks,  the  honourable  scars 
of  the  siege :  near  this  the  "  galleries  " 
are  entered,  which  are  tunnelled  in 
tiers  along  the  N,  front ;  the  gold  of 
England  has  been  lavished  to  put  iron 
into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  But  the 
glorious  defence  made  Gibraltar  po- 
pular, and  no  money  was  grudged  on 
defences,  which  Eliot  had  just  proved 
were  not  wanting.  These  batteries  are 
perhaps  more  a  show  of  terror  than  a 
reality ;  at  the  extremity  are  magni- 
ficent saloons,  that  of  Lord  Cornwallis 
and  the  "  Hall  of  St.  George,"  where 
immortal  Nelson  was  feasted. 

Visit  next  "  Willis  Battery  ;'*  the 
flats  which  overhang  the  precipice 
were  once  called  el  Salto  del  Loho^  the 
Wolfs  leap :  then  ascend  to  the  "  Rock 
gun,"  placed  on  the  N.  of  the  3  points  ; 
central  is  the  "  signal-post ;"  here 


at  sunrise  and  sunset  is  fired  a  gun, 
which,  "  booming  slow  with  sullen 
roar,"  speaks  the  only  language  which 
is  perfectly  understood  on  both  sides 
of  the  straits.  This,  like  the  sword 
of  Alexander,  cuts  the  knots  —  the 
enredos  y  embustes  of  the  Spaniard  in 
authority,  who,  like  the  nettle,  stings 
the  hand  that  treats  him  gently — the 
Duke  knew  how  to  grasp,  him  with  iron 
clench.  "  The  only  way  to  get  them  to 
do  anything  on  any  subject  is  to  frighten 
them*'  (Disp.  Nov.  2,  1813).  Again, 
Nov.  27,  1813,  "  You  may  rely  on  this, 
that  if  you  take  a  firm  decided  line, 
and  show  your  determination  to  go 
through  with  it,  you  will  bring  the 
Spanish  government  to  their  senses, 
and  you  will  put  an  end  at  once  to  all 
the  petty  cabals.'*  "  Nothing,"  says 
the  Duke,  "  can  ever  be  done  without 
coming  to  extremities  with  them" 
(Disp.  Dec.  1,  1813).  A  man-of-war 
in  the  Bay  of  Cadiz  will  effect  more 
in  a  day  than  six  months'  writing 
reams  of  red-taped  foolscap :  this  was 
Elizabeth's  and  Cromwell's  receipt. 
No  Spaniard,  prince  or  priest,  ever 
trifled  with  their  Drakes,  Blakes,  and 
other  naval  diplomats. 

The  feu-d'artifice,  on  the  Queen's 
birth-day,  is  very  striking;  the  royal 
salute  begins  at  the  Rock  gun,  comes 
down  the  hill,  by  the  Galleries,  to 
Willis's  battery,  and  is  then  taken  up 
by  the  troops  at  the  bottom. 

The  signal-house,  under  the  Spanish 
rule,  was  called  el  ffacho,  the  torch, 
because  here  were  lighted  the  beacons 
in  case  of  danger :  near  it  is  la  Silletay 
the  little  chair,  to  which  formerly  a 
narrow  path  led  from  Catalan  Bay: 
it  was  destroyed  to  prevent  surprises, 
as  Gibraltar  was  once  nearly  retaken 
by  a  party  of  Spaniards,  who  crept  up 
during  the  night  by  this  Senda  del 
Pastor;  they  lailed  from  being  un- 
supported by  their  friends  at  the  Lines, 
who  never  arrived  at  the  moment  of 
danger ;  and  when  the  English  scaled 
the  hill,  the  assailants  were  fonnd  to  be 
unprovided  even  with  ammunition: 
cosas  de  Espana,  The  S.  point  of  the 
Rock  is  called  O'Hara's  Tower  or 
Folly,  having  been  built  by  that  sapient 
officer  to  watch  the  movements  of  the 


Roiida  ^  Granada^         route  23. — Gibraltar. 


279 


Spanish  fleet  at  Cadiz,  when  there 
was  one ;  it  was  soon  afterwards  struck 
by  lightning,  which,  completed  its 
inutility. 

The  view  is  magnificent ;  it  is  in- 
deed the  sentinel  watch-tower  of  the 
Mediterranean,  the  battle-sea  of  Eu- 
rope, to  visit  whose  shores  must  ever, 
as  Dr.  Johnson  says,  be  the  first  object 
of  travel.  Descending  amid  zigzag, 
admirably  engineered  roads,  chiefly  the 
work  of  Gen.  Boyd,  the  views  are  deli- 
cious, while  th6  browsing  wild  goats 
form  foregrounds  fit  for  Claude  Lor- 
raine. The  sandy  strip,  or  neutral 
ground,  has  a  cricket-ground  and  a 
race-course,  cosas  de  Inglaterra:  pass- 
ing the  Devil's  Tower,  an  ancient  bar- 
bacan,  is  an  approach  to  Catalan  Bay. 

Inland  excursions  may  be  made  to 
San  Roque,  6  m. ;  to  Carteia,  5  m.;  to 
Ximena,  lodge  with  Don  Juan  de  Leon, 
24  m.,  with  its  Moorish  castles  and 
caves.  The  pedigree  of  these  caves  is 
undeniable  :  when  Crai^us  took  refuge 
in  them  they  belonged  to  one  Paciecus, 
and  when  visited  by  Mr.  Conduit  still 
belonged  to  one  Paoheco.  This  name 
is  itself  Phoenician,  Pithuac  the  fr«7«i- 
KOf  of  the  Gi'eeks.  See  this  point 
enlarged  on  by  us  in  *  Quarterly  Re- 
view,' No.  cxxiii.  p.  100.  Or  you 
may  excurse  to  Tarifa,  24  m. ;  to 
Algeciras,  10  m.  (see  Index). 

There  is  good  rough  shooting  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Gibraltar,  especially 
the  woodcocks  in  the  "  Cork  Wood,* 
and  partridges  and  wild  fowl  in  the 
vicinity  of  Estepona,  Excursions  on 
horseback,  or  with  the  gun,  may  be 
made  to  the  convent  of  Almoraima, 
14  m.,  and  4  m.  on  to  the  nobly-situated 
castle  of  Castellar,  the  property  of  the 
Ms.  de  Moscoso,  who  owns  large  estates 
in  these  districts.  Sebastian  el  Escri- 
hano  is  the  best  guide  there,  but  the 
"  Gib."  hacks  know  the  way  blind- 
fold. For  fox-hounds,  the  "  Calpe 
Hunt"  have  been  kept  ever  since 
1817,  when  started  by  Adm.  Fleming. 
Foxes  are  rather  too  plentiful,  as  Don 
Celestino  Cobos,  the  owner  of  the  first 
Venta  cover,  is  a  great  preserver ;  and 
since  the  hunt  gave  him  a  silver  cup, 
a  vulpicide  is  unheard  of.  The  best 
"  meets  "  are  "  first  and  second  Ven- 


tas,"  Pine  Wood,  Malaga  Road,  and 
Duke  of  Kent's  farm.  Horse-keep  is 
reasonable,  about  two  dollars  per  week 
for  each  horse ;  the  price  of  a  nag 
varies  from  20  to  150  dollars. 

None  should  omit  to  cross  the 
Straits,  and  just  set  foot  on  Africa,  and 
remember  to  edXKouscosou;  the  contrast 
is  scarcely  less  striking  than  passing 
from  Dover  to  Calais.  The  excursion 
into  Barbary  is  both  easy  and  interest- 
ing. The  partridge  shooting  and 
wild-boar  hunting,  near  Tetuan  are 
good ;  a  small  steamer,  set  up,  it 
would  seem,  to  facilitate  smuggling, 
runs  from  Algeciras  to  neighbouring 
ports.  There  is  also  a  constant  com- 
munication by  Misticos  and  other  craft 
between  Barbary  and  the  "  Rock," 
which  is  supplied  with  beef  by  con- 
tract with  the  Emperor  of  Morocco; 
and  steamers,  English  and  French,  ply 
irregularly  every  week  to  Tangiers: 
the  former  the  best  Cross,  therefore, 
over  to  Tangiers,  which  once  belonged 
to  England,  having  formed  part  of 
the  portion  of  the  Portuguese  wife  of 
Charles  II.  Put  up  with  La  Escocesa, 
or  Miss  Duncan,  a  Scottish  ladies' 
house,  which  is  clean  and  comfortable ; 
excellent  accommodation,  with  mode- 
rate charges,  is  to  be  also  had  at  Mi*s. 
Ashton's.  Mr.  Hay,  the  English  con- 
sul and  author  of  the  amusing  ac- 
count of  the  Moors,  understands  the 
C/Ountry  and  natives  better  than  most 
men.  Visit  the  Alcazar,  the  Roman 
bridge  outside  the  town,  and  the  Swed- 
ish and  Danish  consuls'  gardens  ;  visit 
also  some  Berber  village  or  Douar,  and 
the  lake  near  Cape  Spartel.  Previously 
to  returning  from  Tangiers  to  Gibraltar, 
be  sure  that  the  boat  is  likely  to  arrive 
before  gun-fire. 

Obtain  by  application  to  the  English 
consul  a  soldier  as  an  escort,  and  ride 
in  12  h.  to  picturesque  Tetuan ;  lodge 
in  the  Jewish  quarter  with  Solomon 
Nathan.  The  daughters  of  Israel,  both 
at  Tetuan  and  Tangiers,  are  unequalled 
in  beauty:  observe  the  eyes,  feet,  and 
costume  of  these  true  Rebeccas.  The 
Jews  speak  a  corrupt  Spanish.  Visit 
the  Kaid  in  the  Alcazar,  taking  a  pre- 
sent, for  Bachsish  is  here  everything : 
visit  also  the  bazaar  and  the  Sultar*~ 


280 


ROUTE  24. — GIBRALTAR  TO  MALAGA. 


Sect.  III. 


garden.  Tetuan  was  founded  in  1492 
by  the  refugees  from  Granada ;  many 
of  the  families  yet  exist,  who  retain 
the  title-deeds  of  their  former  estates, 
and  the  keys  of  their  doors  ready 
for  re-occupation.  Tetuan  and  its 
population  may  be  taken  as  a  type 
of  what  the  Spanish  Moor  and  his 
cities  were.  There  is  no  danger  or  diffi- 
culty in  this  interesting  African  trip. 
The  Spaniards  despise  the  Moors,  and 
bein^  utterly  ignorant  of  their  real 
condition  fancy  Tetuan  to  be  a  wil- 
derness of  monkeys ;  hence  the  pro- 
verb, Se  fae  d  Tetuan  para  pillar  monosy 
or  para  eager  monos.  The  old  leaven  of 
mutual  hatred  and  ignorance  remains, 
and  there  is  no  love  lost  on  either 
side. 

Another  day's  sail  may  be  made 
from  Algeciras  to  Ceuta  ;  this  opposed 
rock  to  Gibraltar  is  the  Botany  Bay  of 
Spaniards.  The  name  is  a  corruption 
of  "  septem,"  the  seven  hillocks  on 
which  it  is  built;  it  is  very  strongly 
fortified,  especially  on  the  land  side, 
and  is  well  garrisoned  for  Spain,  with 
5000  men.  Ceuta  should  belong,  as  it 
once  did,  to  the  owners  of  Gibraltar, 
and  then  the  command  of  the  Straits 
would  be  complete,  except  in  fogs: 
and  we  deserve  to  have  Ceuta,  for  dur- 
ing the  war  such  were  the  neglect  and 
incapacity  of  the  Spanish  juntas,  such 
their  unworthy  suspicions  of  England, 
and  refusal  to  admit  our  troops,  that 
the  French,  or  possibly  even  the  Moors 
themselves,  would  have  taken  it  had 
not  Sir  Colin  Campbell  sent  over  500 
men  under  Eraser  on  his  own  responsi- 
bility ;  and  even  these  were  long  kept 
out  in  the  boats,  permission  to  land 
being  refused  by  the  Spaniards,  but 
Fraser  insisted,  saying,  "  Ceuta  must 
be  preserved."  No  sooner  were  the 
Cadiz  Cortes  saved  by  the  victory  of 
^amanca,  than  they  contemplated 
passing  a  law  to  prevent  any  foreign 
soldier  Cmeaning  British!)  from  ever 
l}eing  admitted  into  a  Spanish  garrison, 
and  this  when  their  chief  garrisons 
not  taken  by  the  French  were  precisely 
those  which,  in  their  hour  of  need, 
they  had  entreated  England  to  defend. 
At  the  peace  in  1814,  Ferdinand  VII. 

~  de  a  formal  and  ungracious  demand 


that  its  and  his  deliverers  should 
evacuate  the  place. 

The  town  of  Ceuta  is  clean,  and  paved 
in  a  mosaic  pattern.  Posada,  la  de 
Rosalia,  The  (formerly)  English  bar- 
rack is  now  a  wretched  presidw  or 
place  for  convicts,  who  are  not  at  all 
well  kept  or  treated ;_  in  fact  their 
death  economises  rations  and  makes 
them  quite  sure.  All  the  Spaniards, 
however,  are  confined  to  their  rock, 
and  kept  in  presidio  by  the  Moors,  who 
shoot  at  them  the  moment  they  stir 
beyond  their  defences,  and  the  chief 
supplies  of  this  dull  town  of  banish- 
ment come  from  Algeciras.  From 
Ceuta  the  Moors  embarked  on  their 
invasion  of  Spain ;  the  secret  mover  of 
this  expedition  was  the  person  called 
Count  Julian,  who  is  said  thus  to  have 
revenged  his  daughter's  injured  ho- 
nour by  dethroning  Don  Roderick,  her 
seducer.  It  is  not  clear  who  or  what 
he  was;  his  real  name  was  Olianus, 
whence  Elyano  Ilyan :  he  was  probably 
a  rich  Berber  merchant,  and  one  of 
great  influence  over  those  fierce  high- 
landers  of  the  lower  Atlas  (consult  the 
curious  and  learned  note,  *  Moh.  D.' 
i.  537  ;  and  see  La  Cava,  post,  p.  285). 

Those  who  have  not  been  to  Ronda, 
should  ride  by  Gaucin,  Ronda,  and 
Casarabonela  to  Malaga.  To  those  who 
have  the  choice,  two  routes  are  open, 
either  by  land,  or  by  sea  by  the  steamer, 
which  is  the  most  rapid,  and  the  sea- 
coast  is  magnificent  all  the  way  down 
to  Almeria ;  if  they  ^o  by  land,  nota 
bene  to  fill  the  provision  hamper  be- 
fore starting  with  a  farewell  joint  of 
the  roast  beef  of  old  England. 

Route  24. — Gibraltar  to 
Malaga. 

Ya.  del  Guadairo    ...  4 

Estepona     .     .     .  (loDg)  3    . .  7 

Marbella 5    . .  10 

Ojen 1     . .  n 

Monda 2    . .  13 

Malaga   •••...  5..  18 

Or, 

Marbella 10 

Fuengirola  .     •     .  (long)  4    . .    14 

Benalmedina     ....  2    . .    16 

Malaga 3    . .    19 

This  may  be  ridden  in  two  days' 
hardish  work.   The  distance  from  Gib- 


Honda  Sf  Granada,         route  24. — ^marbella. 


281 


r altar  to  Estepona  is  good  7  L.,  and 
takes  8  h.  riding,  and  from  Estepona 
to  Fuengirola  10  L. 

Gibraltar,  as  Strabo  observed,  lies 
about  half  way  between  Cadiz  and 
Malaga.  The  coast  bridle  road  is  as 
sandy  as  thetrochas  of  the  Serrania 
are  stony;  the  line  is  studded  with 
atalayas.  Passing  through  the  "  Lines" 
along  the  sands,  cross  the  dangerous 
valley  of  the  Guadairo,  Fluvius  Bar- 
besulse;  in  fact,  from  the  number  of 
bridgeless  torrents  pouring  down  from 
the  hills,  this  route  becomes  impractica- 
ble in  rainy  weather.  Estepona,  Cilniana, 
was  built  in  1456  from  a  ruined  Moor- 
ish town :  it  supplies  "  the  Rock"  with 
fruit  and  vegetables.  Pop.  8000.  Po- 
sada  kept  by  Christobal  Navarro.  A 
few  arches  remain  of  the  ancient  aque- 
duct of  SaldubOf  at  Las  Bovedas,  On 
the  hills  to  the  1.  is  Manilba,  the  He- 
dionda,  or  fetid  Harrowgate  waters,  of 
the  coast.  The  hygsean  spring  offends 
the  nose  and  palate,  but  benefits  the 
stomach ;  the  smell  and  taste,  accord- 
ing to  local  legends,  are  attributed  to 
the  farewell  sigh  of  a  water-devil,  who, 
on  bein^  expelled  by  Santiago,  evapo- 
rated, like  a  dying  attorney,  with  a 
sulphurous  twang. 

Next  is  crossed  "  el  Rio  Verde." 
This  wild  oleander-fHnged  mountain 
torrent  is  translated  by  Bishop  Percy 
as  a  "  gentle  river  with  willowed  shore : 
assuredly  the  prelate  never  crossed  it, 
as  we  have  done,  when  swollen  by  a 
heavy  rain ;  but,  as  he  said,  "  green 
would  not  sound  well:"  what  would 
he  have  done  with  the  Red  Sea  ?  But 
green  being  the  colour  of  the  prophet, 
is  esteemed  in  tawny  Spain,  where  it  is 
scarce,  and  ojos  verdes,  despite  of  **  green- 
eyed  jealousy,"  is  a  delicate  compliment 
to  those  of  a  lady.  Green  in  the  symbol 
of  colours  signifies  hope ; — and  what  is 
life  in  Spain  or  out,  without  it  ?  This 
river  is  one  of  sad  recollections  in  the 
ballads  of  Spain.  On  the  hills  above, 
Alonso  de  Aguilar,  with  the  flotyer  of 
Andalusian  chivalry,  was  waylaid  and 
put  to  death  by  El  Feri,  of  Benastapar. 
The  unburied  bones,  still  bleaching, 
were  found  in  1570  by  his  great-grand- 
son ;  and  such,  for  many  years,  will  be 
the  bone-strewed  pass  ofCabool;  for 


the  Spaniards,  like  the  Orientals, 
generally  leave  the  disposal  of  the 
bodies  of  the  slain  in  battle  to  the 
vulture,  the  rechamah  of  Scripture,  and 
the  national  undertaker.  The  Iberians 
believed  that  the  souls  of  those  whose 
bodies  were  thus  exposed  were  trans- 
ported at  once  to  heaven  (Sil.  Ital.  iii. 
342;  xiii.  471).  The  ancients  held 
this  bird  to  be  sacrftd  because  it  never 
preyed  on  the  living,  and  was  an  ex- 
cellent undertaker  and  scavenger.  Spain 
is  the  land  of  the  vulture :  the  fiocks 
hover  over  their  prey,  and  soar  sulkily 
away  when  disturbed,  parting  the  light 
air  with  heavy  wing.  During  the  late 
wars  the  number  of  these  feathered 
gmrrilleros  multiplied  fearfully,  like 
those  of  the  latro  implnmis  kind.  Battle, 
murder,  and  sudden  death  provided  sus- 
tenance to  the  carrion-feeders,  whose 
numbers  increased  with  supply  of  sub- 
sistence. The  indecency  of  the  Spaniard 
towards  a  dead  body  is  very  remark- 
able ;  a  live  man  is  of  small  value,  a 
dead  one  of  rather  less.  The  Sangrados 
have  small  use  for  anatomical  subjects, 
since  it  saves  them  trouble  to  practise 
on  their  patients  before  the  coup  de 
grace  is  given. 

Diego  de  Mendoza  (Guerras  de 
Granada,  iv.)  describes  the  discovery 
of  these  bleaching  bones,  and  the  rage 
and  grief  of  the  army.  He  borrows, 
without  either  acknowledging  the  ob- 
ligation, or  improving  on  his  original, 
from  Tacitus,  *  An.'  i.  61,  whose  splen- 
did account  of  the  finding  the  remains 
of  the  legions  of  Varus  is  well  knojsrn. 
Mendoza  is  now  called  the  Spanish 
Tacitus,  just  as  Toreno  might  be 
termed  their  Southey,  as  far  as  loaning 
other  men's  ideas  go. 

Marbella,  a  pretty  town  with  a  pretty 
name,  rises  in  a  sweet  climate  amidst 
groves  and  gardens,  backed  by  the 
Sierra  Blanca,  for  here  verdant  hills 
are  called  white,  as  azure  streams  are 
green.  Isabella  is  said  to  have  ex- 
claimed, "  Que  Mar  tan  bella  I "  Mar- 
bella  is  frail  and  fair,  and,  like  Poti- 
pbar*s  wife,  is  said  to  steal  raiment : — 

"  MarbeUa  es  bfUa,  no  entres  en  ella ; 
Quien  entra  con  capa,  sale  sin  eUa." 

The  posadas  San  Christobal  and  La  Cr 


282 


ROUTE  24. GIBRALTAR  TO  MALAGA. 


Sect.  III. 


rona  are  decent.  Consult  *  Conjeturas 
de  Marbella*  Pedro  Vasquez  deClavel, 
4to.,  Cordova.  It  was  taken  from  the 
Moors  in  1485.     Pop.  5000. 

Near  the  Rio  Verde  are  the  iron- 
works, Li  Concepcion,  established  by 
the  late  Manuel  de  Heredia,  who  in- 
troduced the  English  system,  and 
operatives.  The  ore  is  rich,  but  want 
of  fuel  neutralises  this  bounty  of 
nature. 

The  road  now  branches;  that  by 
the  coast  passes  the  castle  of 

Fueivjirol'i  —  Suel  —  Posado  del  Sal- 
vador ;  this  place  stands  boldly  on  a  crag 
jutting  over  an  orange-garden.  Here 
Lord  Blayney  immortalized  himself. 
Sent  in  Oct.  1810,  by  Gen.  Campbell, 
from  Gibraltar,  to  surprise  this  castle 
and  act  upon  Malaga,  "he  made," 
says  Napier, "  his  dispositions  with  the 
utmost  contempt  of  military  rules," 
lost  2  days  in  cannonading  the  castle 
with  l2-pounders,  and  thus  afforded 
Sebastiani  time  to  come  up  with  a  su- 
perior force.  To  crown  the  blunders, 
Blayney,  according  to  bis  own  book, 
"  took  these  French  for  Spaniards ; " 
and  they  took  him  prisoner.  The  real 
Spaniards,  having  left  the  English  to 
bear  the  burden  of  the  fight,  now  re- 
embarked  under  the  protection  of  the 
Rodney's  broadsides.  Lord  Blayney 
ate  his  way  through  Spain  and  France, 
and  then  published  a  narrative  of  a 
forced  (meat  ?)  journey,  2  v.,  London, 
1814,  to  the  infinite  joy  of  reviewers, 
who  compared  it  to  Drunken  Bama- 
by*s  travels.  The  castle  is  what  the 
Spaniards  term  a  Casa  de  ratones;  and 
in  this  rat-trap,  in  1834,  the  poor  rebel 
dupe  Torrijos  and  his  companions  were 
caught  by  the  sanguinary  scoundrel 
Moreno,  who  shot  them  all  like  dogs 
at  Malaga. 

On  leaving  Marhella^  avoid  these 
scenes  of  dishonour,  and  turn  into  the 
mountains  to  the  1.  by  Coin;  3  L.  of 
ascent  amid  vines  lead  to  Ojeuy  a  ro- 
mantic village  in  a  bosom  of  beauty. 
Passing  on,  lie  the  hamlet  and  castle 
of  Mond'ty  near  which  was  fought  the 
Waterloo  of  antiquity.  The  exact  site 
is  unknown ;  so  much  for  glory ! 
Some  contend  that  Pompey*s  camp 
-was  near  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Seco, 


while  others  maintain  that  the  real 
venue  is  to  be  laid  at  Montilla  near 
Cordova.  Be  that  as  it  may  the  pre- 
sent village  was  built  by  the  Moors 
from  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city, 
which  is  still  called  Monda  la  Vieja. 
Munda  was  of  Iberian  origin.  Mon, 
Monoa — ^unde  Mons — is  a  prefix  of 
height.  It  lay  to  the  W.,  and  was, 
according  to  Strabo,  the  metropolis  of 
the  district.  Consult  *  Exnmen  de  las 
Medullas  attribuidas  d  la  Cnidad  de 
Munda,*  G.  L.  Bustamente,  fol.  Mad. 
1799. 

Here,  in  a  conflict  between  Scipio 
and  Magon,  the  former  was  wounded 
(Livy,  xxiv.  42).  Here,  or  wherever 
it  was,  Caesar,  March  17,  47  A.C.,  de- 
feated the  sons  of  Pompey :  this,  the 
"  last  of  battles,"  left  the  conqueror 
without  a  rivalj  and  gave  the  world 
to  one  master  (Floras,  iv.  2,  82 ; 
Lucan,  *  Phar.*  i.  40),  Caesar  arrived 
from  Rome  in  24  days  (Suet,  in  Vit. 
56).  The  first  news  of  his  coming 
was  conveyed  both  to  his  own  troops 
and'to  the  enemy  by  his  actual  arrival 
(Hirt.  *  B.H.'  29).  Hirtius,  a  friend 
of  Csesar's,  describes  the  plain,  and 
the  bright  sun,  which  shone  out  as  if 
the  gods  had  made  it  a  day  for 
triumph,  like  Le  Soleil  (TAusterlitz, 
He  makes  the  best  of  the  event,  and 
enumerates  the  number  of  the  slain, 
the  prisoners,  and  the  captured  stand- 
ards, but  Floms  gives  those  details 
which  the  conqueror  concealed.  The 
countenance  of  Caesar,  which  used  to 
brighten  at  the  trumpet-sound,  was 
overcast ;  a  silence  came  over  the  con- 
tending armies,  who  knew  how  im- 
portant was  the  hazard  of  the  cast. 
The  veterans,  flushed  with  14  years  of 
victory,  wavered,  and  Caesar  himself 
for  a  moment  despaired  and  meditated 
suicide  (Suet,  in  Vit.  36).  He  flung 
himself  from  his  horse,  and  cast  off 
his  helmet  that  he  might  be  known 
(App.  *B.C.*  ii.  804):  the  day  was 
won,  hot  by  the  soldiers,  but  by  the 
general  (Veil.  Pat.  ii.  55).  The  con- 
queror then  remarked  that  previously 
he  had  always  fought  for  victory,  but 
then  for  his  very  life.  30,000  of  the 
enemy  were  slain,  and  a  rampart  of 
dead  bodies  was  raised  around  Munda, 


Bonda  Sf  Granada.       route  24. — Malaga — the  climate. 


283 


for  want  of  gabions  (App.  loc.  cit.). 
Csesar  then  cut  dowli  a  forest  for  pali- 
sadoes,  leaving  a  single  palm  stand- 
ing, an  omen  and  record  of  victory 
(Suet.  Aug.  94).  For  other  details  of 
these  districts,  consult  Esp,  Sag.  xii. 
291. 

A  rich  fruit  district  intervenes  to 
Coin;  Cartitma  lies  on  a  hill   to   the 
1. :  thence,  leaving  Churriana  to  the  rt., 
through  Alhaurin  el  Grande,  of  Moor- 
ish origin — al  haur,  the  valley — distant 
4  L.  from  Malaga ;  it  is  much  resorted 
to  for  the  baths,  since  an  establish- 
ment on   the    Graefenbur^  principle 
has  been  set  up.     There  is  a  decent 
inn  in  the  Calle  San  Sebastian,  and  a 
so-called  Murillo — a   St.  Francis — in 
the  parish  church.    The  Huerta,  hoya 
or  valley,  near  Malaga,  is  renowned 
for  fertility,   and  was  studded  with 
hamlets  filled  with   industrious  Mo- 
riscoes,  but  the  Spaniards,  by  expell- 
ing   these    admirable    agriculturists, 
have  converted  an  Eden  into  a  desert. 
Malaga  lies  beyond,  girt  with   hills, 
and  basking  at  their  base  on  its  sunny 
bay.     Crossing  the   Guadnlorce,   is   a 
combined  aqueduct  and  viaduct,  which 
was  destined  to  bring  water  from  the 
Sierra  of  Mijas,  and  serve  also  as  a  road. 
Begun   in   1726   by   Geronimo   Soils, 
after  plans  of  Toribio  Martinez  de  la 
Vega,  the  funds,  raised  by  a  tax  on 
oil  and  wine,  were  first  jobbed  by  the 
directors,  and  in  1 742  the  residue  was 
seized  by  the  needy  government. 

Malaga :  Inns — At  the  hotel  of  the 
Alameda,  built  on  it  and  kept  by  Mr. 
Hodson,  charges  2  dollars  a  day,  and 
at  the  Victoria  recently  erected  near 
it,  and  managed  by  Mr.  Frank,  English 
comforts  may  be  enjoyed  under  an 
Andalucian  climate.  Mr.  Hodson  keeps 
a  shop,  "  a  store,"  near  his  hotel,  where 
British  beer,  soda  water,  &c.,  may  be 
had;  he  also  acts  as  an  agent  in  send- 
ing wines,  &c.  to  England.  For  sum- 
mer, the  Oriente,  kept  by  a  Swiss, 
will  be  found  very  cool  and  reason- 
able. The  Foiida  de  la  Danza,  Plaza 
de  los  Moros,  kept  by  Matias  Balcon, 
a  worthy  civil  Gallician,  who  speaks 
English,  is  very  good  and  reasonable ; 
terms   5  pesetas   a-day.     There  is  a 


the  waiters  speak  English,  French, 
and  Spanish :  Balcon  also  understands 
all  about  hiring  horses,  mules,  filling 
betas  y  alforjas,  whether  you  are  bound 
for  Granada,  Ronda,  or  Gibraltar.  For 
horses  and  mules,  Pedro  Perez,  7, 
Calle  de  Postas.  Other  inns  are  Fonda 
de  los  Tres  Reyes  —  Cuatro  Naciones, 
good  and  clean — Farador  de  las  Diligen- 
cias,  dirty.  There  are  also  many  Casas 
de  Fnpilos :  one  at  Romagnoli,  near  the 
cathedral,  can  be  recommended  as  a 
fair  quarter. 

Invalids,  and  especially  those  whose 
lungs  are  affected,  will  find  the  cli- 
mate of  Mala^  superior  to  anything 
in  Italy  or  Spain.  The  characteristics 
are  constant  sunshine  and  dryness  of 
air ;  in  1850  only  seven  days  of  real 
wet  occurred;  clear  sunshine  is  the 
rule.  The  mean  winter  temperature 
from  8  to  10  a.m.  ranges  from  50.  to  51. 
Patients  will,  of  course,  consult  Dr. 
Francis,  and  read  his  chapter  x. ""  The 
Topografica  Medica  of  Vicente  Martinez 
y  Monies,  4to.,  Malaga,  1852,  embraces 
every  detail.  Winter,  in  our  accepta- 
tion of  the  thing,  here  is  almost  un- 
known: open  to  the  S.  and  sea,  the 
sunny  city  is  sheltered  from  the  N. 
and  E.  by  the  mountains.  Well  may 
the  poets  sing — 

Malaga  la  hechioera. 
La  del  eternal  primavera, 
Ia  que  bafia  dulce  el  mar 
Entre  Jaeonin  y  azahar. 

Nor  is  Malaga  itself  the  only  asylum 
for  the  invalid,  as  in  the  pleasant  vil- 
lage of  Torremolmos,  distant  about  2 
L.,  Don  Nicolas  Parody,  who  speaks 
English,  has  recently  fitted  up  a  very 
fine  hacienda,  with  every  sort  of  accom- 
modation for  those  sent  abroad  for  the 
sake  of  health.  This  villa,  and  many 
in  the  city's  neighbourhood,  is  full  of 
sun,  flower,  and  fruit.  Among  the 
prettiest  casas  de  recreo  are  those  of 
the  widow  of  the  Prussian  consul,  and 
of  the  Conde  de  Villacazar. 

The  province  of  Malaga  —  pop. 
440,000 — and  one  of  the  richest  in 
Spain,  is  indebted  to  nature  for  a  fer- 
tile soil,  and  to  the  sea  for  an  outlet ; 
the  range  of  hills  abound  in  metals  and 
marbles,  in  mineral  waters,  and  streams, 


good  table  d'hCte  at  3  and  5  o'clock;  |  while  the  botany  is  of  every  zone.   The     - 


284 


ROUTE  24. — MALAGA. 


Sect.  III. 


stalactical  caverns  are  no  less  nume- 
rous  than  curious.  One  glance  over 
the  details  of  Madoz,  xi.  39,  is  enough 
to  show  how  a  Buckland  is  deside- 
rated to  explore  the  untrodden  caverns 
of  ArduleZf  Benitez,  Las  Tajaras,  Tio 
Leal,  Los  Cantales,  &c.  Hasten  there, 
ye  men  of  the  vasculum  and  hammer.- 

In  summer  it  must  he  rememhered 
that  the  climate  of  Malaga  is  almost 
tropical.  In  the  hotanical  garden  the 
Kermes  cochenilla  is  reared  on  the 
Cactus  opnnti'i;  the  coflFee,  cocoa, 
cotton-plants,  and  the  sugar-cane 
thrive  here.  As  a  mercantile  resid- 
ence, the  town  is  agreeable.  The  better 
classes  are  well  off,  gay,  and  hospit- 
able ;  the  ladies  are  pretty,  sprightly, 
and  fascinating.  Mr.  Mark,  the  Eng- 
lish consul,  is  full  of  attentions  and 
civilities  to  his  countrymen,  as  his 
father  was  before  him.  Dr.  Shortliff 
is  a  resident  English  physician.  A 
chaplain  performs  full  service  at  11 
and  4,  in  a  room  fitted  up  at  the  con- 
sulate. 

For  local  history,  &c.,  consult  Malaga^ 
8u  Fundacion,  Marfin  de  Roa,  4to.  Mai. 
1 622 ;  Conversaciones  MalaguenaSf  Cecilio 
Garcia  de  la  Lena,  4  vols.  Mai.  1 789 ;  the 
real  author  was  one  Cristobal  Medina 
Conde,  a  notorious  inventor  of  frauds. 
The  new  and  not  completed  ffistoria, 
&c.,  by  Udefonso  Marzo,  bids  fair  to  be 
the  best. 

Malaga  is  the  capital  of  its  province, 
the  residence  of  the  superior  autho- 
rities, Gefe  or  Gobemador,  and  bishop, 
suffragan  to  Granada :  pop.  80,000, 
and  increasing.  It  has  a  cathedral,  a 
casa  de  espositoSy  hospitals,  a  naval 
college ;  a  decent  theatre,  built  by 
Masonesqui;  a  casino,  reading-room, 
excellent  baths ;  a  plaza  de  toros,  con- 
structed out  of  a  Franciscan  convent ; 
a  fine  quay,  pier,  and  Alameda;  a 
public  bank  is  talked  about.  The  coat 
of  arms  are  the  2  tutelar  martyrs,  San 
Cyriaco  and  Santa  Paula,  with  the 
castles  of  Alcazaba  and  Gibralfaro,  and 
the  Tanto  Monta  of  Ferdinand  for  a 
motto. 

Malaga  is  the  chief  port  of  Gra- 
nada ;  the  position  is  admirable ;  the 
Guadalmedina,  or  "  river  of  the  city," 
divides  it  from  the  suburbs  Perchel 


(from  the  perchas  of  the  fishermen) 
and  La  Trinidad.  This  river  never 
had  a  name  of  its  own.  Malackctque 
flrnnen  urbis  cum  cognomine  (Fest.  Av. 
de  Or.  Mar.  431).  It  is  a  mere  brook 
in  summer,  but  a  devastating  torrent 
in  winter.  It  is  the  bane  and  anti- 
dote of  the  city :  the  deposits  block  up 
the  harbour,  while,  like  an  Alpheus, 
it  cleanses  away  with  its  freshes  the 
accumulations  of  plague-engendering 
filth  to  which  the  inhabitants  are 
strangely  indifferent ;  albeit,  with  their 
port,  their  prosperity  must  depart. 
The  schemes  for  improving  this  tor- 
rent-bed by  dykes,  channels,  &c.,  are 
infinite.  The  sea  meantime  recedes; 
thus  the  old  Moorish  quay  is  now  in 
the  town,  and  the  Alameda  was  covered 
with  water  last  century. 

Phoenician  Malaga,  like  Cadiz,  is 
of  immemorial  antiquity,  and  the 
judgment  shown  in  the  selection  of  site 
is  evidenced  by  a  commercial  existence 
and  prosperity  of  3000  years.  The 
name  is  taken  either  from  Mdech,  King's 
town,  or  from  Melach,  the  salt-fish,  the 
raftxueti  of  Strabo,  those  anchovies 
and  boquerones  for  which,  then  as 
now,  it  is  celebrated.  Thus  Sidon 
has  been  derived  from  seid,  salt-fish» 
Humboldt,  however,  considers  Malaca 
to  be  a  pure  Iberian  name — Mai,  a 
hill,  with  carra,  the  termination  of 
locality  (Bergseite).  Malaga,  like 
Cadiz,  a  city  of  selfish  merchants, 
deserted  Tyre  for  rising  Carthage, 
and  then  deserted  Carthage  for  rising 
Rome.  Having  made  terms  with  Scipio, 
it  became  a  municipium,  and  was  em- 
bellished with  an  amphitheatre,  part 
of  which  was  laid  open  in  digging  the 
foundations  of  the  Convento  de  la  Paz, 
and  reburied,  as  usual. 

Malaga,  Malakah,  was  a  city  so 
much  after  the  Moor's  own  heart,  that 
Rasis  describes  it  as  a  paradise  on 
earth.  It  was  taken  by  Ferdinand 
Aug.  18,  1487,  after  a  dreadful  siege ; 
and  on  the  anniversary,  at  3  o'clock 
P.M.,  the  great  cathedrsd  bell  is  struck 
3  times.  The  king  broke  every  pledge, 
and  celebrated  his  triumph  with  con- 
fiscations and  autos  de  fe.  See  Pulgar, 
Chr.  de  los  Reyes,  ch.  xciv.  et  seq. 
The  manes  of  the  murdered  Moors 


JRonda  ^  Granada,    route  24. — ^Malaga — ^la  cava. 


285 


were  avenged  by  Sebastiani,  who  en- 
tered Feb.  5,  1810.  The  Malaga  junta, 
after  the  rout  of  Ocana,  made  no  sort  of 
preparation  ;  they  did  not  even  remove 
their  stores  or  artillery;  while  Col. 
Abello,who  commanded  here,setan  ex- 
ample to  the  junta  of  taking  to  their 
heels  at  the  first  sight  of  the  French 
advance.  The  city  was  then  sacked, 
and  Sebastian!  "  qui  faisait  bien  ses 
affaires/'  exacted  12  million  reals. 
See  for  details  of  his  bloodshed,  lust, 
and  rapine,  Toreno  xi.  and  Schepeler 
ii.  534. 

The  Malaguefios  again  made  no  re- 
sistance to  the  French  in  1823 ;  and 
the  invaders,  under  Ct.  Loveredo, 
drew  out  on  the  Alameda  the  cart- 
ridges which  they  had  loaded  at  the 
Bidasoa,  and  threw  them  in  the  faces 
of  the  patriots,  their  promenade  mili- 
taire  being  concluded  ;  Malaga  shared 
with  Lugo,  May  20,  1843,  m  taking 
the  lead  in  the  Espartero  pronnncia- 
miento  :  to  pronounce  is  rather  popular 
here ;  as,  whenever  one  of  these  patri- 
otic declarations  takes  place,  authority 
is  at  an  end,  and  everybody  robs  the 
public  till,  and  smuggles  in  cigars  and 
cottons  for  their  private  good. 

Malaga,  being,  as  it  was  from  its 
very  beginning,  a  purely  commercial 
city,  and  without  arts  or  letters,  is 
soon  seen.  Taste  is  here  confined  to 
raisins  and  sweet  wine.  A  couple  of 
days  will  more  than  suffice  to  the  tra- 
veller. From  the  summit  of  the  hills 
Santo  Ritaz  3  L.,  or  Potron  2  L.  The 
panorama  of  sea  and  land  is  magnifi- 
cent. The  best  points  of  view  of  the  city 
are  from  the  mole-head,  the  convent,  Im 
Trinidad,  and  the  noble  Moorish  castle, 
which  was  built  in  1279,  at  once  a 
palace  and  a  fortress.  The  lower  por- 
tion is  called  the  Alcazaba,  Al  Kas- 
sahah,  Arabic^  the  heart,  the  centre. 
It  is  connected  with  the  upper  keep, 
the  Gibalfaro,  the  "  hill  of  the 
Pharos."-  Observe  a  fine  Moorish 
horse-shoe  gateway,  incongruously  or- 
namented with  old  Roman  columns 
and  modem  Roman  Catholic  images. 
La  Puerta  de  la  Cava  is  connected  by 
the  vulgar  with  La  Cava,  Count  Ju- 
lian's daughter,  whose  violation  by 
Don  Roderick  introduced  the  Moors 


into  Spain,  a  questionable  story  at 
best ;  at  all  events  La  Cava  is  a  cor- 
ruption of  Alcaba,  the  descent;  and 
Cava  herself  is  nothing  but  Cahba, 
which  in  Arabic  signifies  a  lewd 
woman,  a  "  curse,"  whence  the  old 
Spanish  phrase  Cavasa  gavasa ;  akin 
to  which  is  gabacho,  miscreant,  the 
Spanish  term  for  a  Frenchman,  a  word 
derived  as  some  say  from  a  dress,  ga- 
vacK  worn  by  them.  That  Don  Julian 
or  El^ano  assisted  the  Moorish  inva- 
sion IS  certain  (see  p.  280),  but  the 
name  of  this  Helen,  his  daughter,  is 
never  mentioned,  except  in  later  bal- 
lads and  sayings.  Ay  !  de  Espaila  per- 
dida  por  un  gusto  y  por  la  Cava, 

The  Moorish  Atarazana,  or  dock- 
yard, is  now  in  the  town,  from  the 
sea's  receding.  A  beautiful  marble 
horse  -  shoe  arch  remains  :  this  has 
been  disfigured  by  a  paltry  shed,  and 
narrowly  escaped  being  pulled  down 
in  1833;  and  there  is  talk  now  of 
the  "  necessity  of  new  improvement." 
The  Spaniard  in  authority  has  small 
feeling  for  Moorish  art,  which  he  con- 
siders a  remnant  of  a  barbarian  infidel 
and  invader ;  na^,  he  resents  the  ad- 
miration of  foreigners,  because  it  im- 
plies inferiority  in  himself. 

The  ch.  of  Santiago  was  a  mosque ; 
the  brick  tower  and  some  azulcjos  yet 
remain.  The  grand  mosque  was  pulled 
down  to  make  room  for  the  mixed 
Corinthian  cathedral,  which  was  be- 

fun  in  1538,  and  only  finished  in  1 719. 
'he  original  design,  by  Diego  de  Siloe, 
was  departed  from  by  each  succeeding 
architect.  The  fa9ade  stands  between 
2  towers ;  one  estd  por  acabar,  and  the 
other  is  drawn  out  like  a  telescope, 
with  a  pepper-box  dome,  some  350 
ft.  high,  and  commanding  a  glorious 
view :  ascend  it.  Opposite  the  Santo 
Tomas  is  one  of  the  fine  old  Gothic 
doors,  with  curious  azuiejo.  The  in- 
terior is  a  failure.  A  heavy  cornice 
is  supported  by  grouped  fluted  Corin- 
thian pillars,  placed  back  to  back  on 
ill-proportioned  pedestals.  Observe  the 
red  marble  pulpit.  The  altar  mayor, 
designed  by  Alonso  Cano,  is  light  and 
open.  Observe  a  "  Concepciony'  attri- 
buted to  Mateo  Cerezo,  but  it  is  either 
by  Valdes  Leal  or  some  second-rate 


286 


ROCTTE  24. — ^MALAGA — TORRUOS. 


Sect.  III. 


Sevillano;  a  "Virgin  and  Child," 
Morales,  is  doubtful :  the  "  Virgin,** 
or  "  Madona  del  Rosario**  by  Cano,  is 
good.  The  SHleria  del  Coro  was  carved 
in  1658  by  Pedro  de  Mena,  a  pupil  of 
Cano.  The  fa9ade  of  the  Sagrario, 
although  illtreated,  is  in  <good  early 
Gothic.  The  bishop's  palace  is  near 
the  cathedral. 

Malaga  is  exposed  to  winds  from 
the  E.  The  mole  which  protects  the 
shipping  was  built  in  1588 :  walk  to 
the  end  for  the  view,  especially  from 
the  summit  of  the  new  lighthouse. 
The  large  white  custom-house  build- 
ing in  the  foreground,  all  roof  and 
window,  was  destined  for  the  Lonja, 
or  exchange.  The  Alameda  is  deli- 
cious :  the  houses  on  it  are  the  best  in 
Malaga ;  somewhat  too  sunny  by  day, 
the  evening  gas-lit  promenade  is  most 
fashionable ;  and  here  will  be  seen  Las 
MalijujueuaSy  who  are  "  muy  fuilaguelias" 
very  bewitching.  The  walk  is  full  of 
flowers  and  water.  The  marble  foun- 
tain, with  groups  of  female  figures 
somewhat  too  undressed  for  Spanish 
propriety,  was  made  at  Genoa,  and 
given  by  that  republic  to  Charles  V. 

On  the  beach,  in  the  Playas  de  San 
AndreSy  below  the  Carmwi  convent, 
where  a  spinning-factory  now  rises, 
Torrijos  and  some  50  of  his  confede- 
rates were  shot  by  General  Moreno, 
Dec.  11,  1831,  as  rebels  and  traitors; 
now,  in  the  changes  and  chances  of 
Spain,  they  are  honoured  as  martyrs 
of  liberty,  and  a  monument  has  re- 
cently been  erected  in  the  plaza  del 
Rieijo,  with  their  names  and  laurel 
crowns.  They  were  put  to  death 
without  even  the  form  of  trial ;  and  as 
this  course  in  Spain  was  quite  a  matter 
of  course,  the  affair  created  little  sensa- 
tion beyond  just  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood, and  would  forthwith  have 
been  forgotten  among  other  trea- 
cheries, bloodsheddings,  and  Cosas  de 
EspaiUiy  had»not  an  Englishman,  Mr. 
Boyd,  suffered  among  them ;  his  case 
was  taken  up  by  the  London  press,  who 
reasoned  remarkably  well,  barring  the 
slight  mistake  of  confounding  Spanish 
law  with  English ;  his  was  the  first 
body  interred  in  the  new  Protestant 
burial-ground.      The  man  of  blood. 


Moreno,  who  began  his  career  at  the 
massacres  of  the  French  in  Valencia, 
1808,  lured  Torrijos  into  the  trap, 
corresponding  with  him  under  the 
name  of  ViriatuSy  and  pretending  also 
to  be  discontented ;  rewarded  by  being 
made  Captain-General  of  Granada  by 
Ferdinand  VII.,  he  was  disgraced  by 
Christina  in  1832,  when  she  wished 
to  make  for  herself  a  liberal  party. 
He  then  became  a  Carlist,  and  was 
murdered  at  Urdax  (see  Index)  by  his 
soldiers,  after  the  traitorous  conven- 
tion of  Maroto  at  Vergara.  Nee  lex 
est  justior  uUa,  quam  necis  artifices 
arte  perire  sud..  For  the  details  of  all 
this  Punic  and  Iberian  treachery  and 
bloodshed,  see  Boyd  Papers,  printed 
by  the  House  of  Commons,  4th  July, 
1834. 

Visit  the  Protestant  burial-ground, 
not  because  it  is  a  pleasant  "  bourn 
from  whence  no  traveller  returns,"  but 
as  being  the  first  site  permitted  here  in 
our  times  for  the  repose  of  our  hereti- 
cal carcases,  which  used  to  be  buried 
in  the  sea-sands  like  those  of  dead 
dogs,  and  beyond  the  low- water  mark ; 
nay  even  this  concession  offended 
orthodox  Spanish  fishermen,  who  fear- 
ing that  the  soles  might  become  in- 
fected, took  the  bodies  up  in  the 
night  and  cast  them  into  the  deep  to 
feed  sharks  withal.  This  cemetery, 
which  lies  outside  the  town  to  the  E., 
is  the  work  of  Mr.  Mark,  father  of 
the  present  consul,  who  planted  and 
enclosed  the  ground,  and  all  travel- 
lers who  contemplate  dying  in  Malaga, 
and  are  curious  about  their  Christian 
burial,  must  be  thankful  for  this  pros- 
pect of  comfortable  lying  at  last.  (See 
for  cemetery  details  *  Gatherings, 
p.  252.') 

Malaga,  besides  legitimate  traffic, 
carries  on  great  smuggling  with  Gib- 
raltar and  Marseilles,  by  which  the 
authorities,  especially  commissioners 
of  customs  and  preventive  officers,  are 
said  to  get  rich ;  the  steamers  facili- 
tate this  contraband,  and  the  establish- 
ment of  cotton  manufactories  near  the 
beach  is  very  convenienty  as  Manchester 
goods  sometimes  pass  for  genuine 
Spanish. 

Malaga  is  more  renowned  for  wine 


Honda  ^  Granada,     routp:  24. — ^maiaga-t-wines. 


287 


and  fruit  than  literature  or  fine  arts ; 
the  chief,  if  art  it  can  be  called,  is  the 
making  painted  terra-cotta  images  of 
Mojos,  Contrabandistas,  and  local  cos- 
tume. Those  of  Leon  are  excellent ;  he 
is  dead,  but  the  shop  goes  on  behind 
the  C<(f^  de  la.  Loha,  Calle  Santa  Lucia. 
Jose  Cubero  may  also  be  recommended. 
The  clay  is  very  pliable,  and  does  not 
crack  in  baking.  It  is  found  near  the 
convent  La  Victoria.  Excellent  alcar- 
razas,  porous  drinking-cups,  are  also 
made  of  it.  This  convent  deserves  a 
visit ;  it  was  so  called  because  it  was 
the  site  of  the  royal  head  -  quarters 
during  the  siege  of  Malaga.  It  is  open 
on  Sundays  and  every  morning.  Ob- 
serve the  tomb  of  the  Conde  de  Buena 
Vista  and  his  wife.  To  the  rt.  of  the 
high  altar  is  the  banner  of  Ferdinand, 
and  to  the  1.  the  red  ensign  of  the 
Moor — curious  relics,  as  the  former 
was  the  one  actually  hoisted  on  the 
Torre  del  Homenaje  at  the  city's  sur- 
render. 

Malaga f  since  the  death  of  Ferdinand 
VII.,  has  been  much  changed  and  im- 
proved, and  is  now  a  flourishing  sea- 
port, trading  with  every  quarter  of  the 
globe.  Iron-foundries,  soap-fabrics 
and  cotton-mills,  are  fast  rising.  The 
chief  impulse  to  all  this  was  given 
by  the  late  energetic  and  enterprising 
Manuel  Agustin  de  Heredia.  The  tall 
smoking  chimnies  of  his  new  Constancia 
look  odd  under  this  azure  sky,  trans- 
ported as  it  were  from  Lancashire^ 
for  their  soot^'  sins.  The  fear  is  that 
the  Malagenians,  whose  true  wealth 
lies  in  the  produce  of  the  sea,  and  of 
the  earth's  surface,  may  waste  their 
industry  in  pursuit  of  shadows.  Wine 
and  fruit  are  their  real  staples,  not 
cotton  bales  and  pigs  of  iron,  the 
produce  of  Manchester  and  Birming- 
ham. The  mania  and  mistake,  just 
now,  is  to  wish  to  make  for  themselves 
wares,,  bad  and  dear,  in  preference  to 
importing  them  good  and  cheap.  Nay, 
even  the  immemorial  hereditary  Salsa- 
menta  are  passing  away,  since  these 
innovations. 

The  sweet  Muscatel  wines  of  Malaga 
are  well  known ;  they  are  the  "  moun- 
tai)is  '*  of  our  ancestors,  and  grow  for 
leagues  and  leagues  on  the  vine-clad 


'  heights  which  slope  down  to  the  sea. 
I  The  richest  are  called  Las  Lagrimas, 
\  like   the   LacrymcB   Christi  of  Naples, 
and  are   the  ruby  tears  which   drop 
from  the  grape  without  pressure.    The 
making  the  dry  wines  was  first  intro- 
duced by  an  Englishman  named  Mur- 
phy ;  they  are  much  more  agreeable 
and  wholesome  than  the  vile  San  Lucar 
stuff.  A  butt  is  worth  about  10/.  About 
40,000  are  made,  of  which  30,000  are 
sent   to  America   and   England,   and 
sold  as  "  genuine  pale  sherry."     The 
other  exports  are  oil,  figs,  orange-peel 
for    making    cara^oa,    almonds,    and 
raisins ;  for  the  latter  the  Muscatel  and 
Uva  larga  grapes  are  used,  and  these 
Bacchus-beloved  hills  are  so  extensive 
as   to    form   one   vineyard    down   to 
Adra.    The  green  grape  is  exported 
to   England    m   jars,    in    the    exact 
amphorae    seen    at    Pompeii;     these 
are  the   Ollares  of  Martial  (vii.  20). 
The  raisins,  so  common  in  Palestine 
(1  Sam.  XXV.  18  ;  xxx.  12),  were  first 
made  here  by  the   Phoenicians,  and 
after  a  lapse  of  many  thousand  ^ears 
are  still  the  finest  of  Spain.    A  million 
boxes  are  annually   exported;   those 
anxious  to  see  the  process  may  visit 
the  store  of  Mr.  Clements,  one  of  the 
greatest  of  the  merchants  in  this  line. 
The  raisins  are  prepared  by  cutting  the 
stalk  partly  through,  and  letting  the 
grape  dry  in  the  sun.    The  finest  are 
the   "  Muscatels,"   and  the  next  the 
"  Blooms  ;*'    these  are  cured    in  the 
same    wav,   being   only   varieties   of 
grapes.  The  commoner  sorts  are  called 
Lexiasy   from  being  dipped   in   a  ley 
made  of  burnt  vine-tendrils.    The  late 
grapes,  "  quae  de  tardis  servantur  viti- 
bus  uvai"    (Mart.   i.   44),  are,  as   in 
Martial's  time,  hung  up  in  festoons  in 
the  cottages  of  the  peasants,  and  thence 
are  called  Colgaderas.    The  Spaniards 
have  also  preserved  the  unchanged  Eo< 
man  name  for  Raisin,  Pasa.     Uva  passa 
pensilis  (Plant.  *  Pcen.'  i.  2.  99).     The 
vineyards  in  the  wine-making  districts 
of  Spain  are  seldom  enclosed  with  any 
fence  ;  they  are  left  open  to  the  passer- 
by :  when  the  grapes  begin  to  ripen,  in 
those  fields  near  a  roadside  temporary 
sheds  and  awnings  are  run  up,  or  huts 
built  with  reeds  and  boughs,  in  which 


288 


ROUTE  25. — MALAGA  TO  GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


the  VinaderOy  a  watchman,  is  placed, 
who  creeps  in  and  oat  with  his  gun. 
These  are  the  Oriental  "  Booths  which 
the  keeper  maketh,"  Job  xxvii.  18: 
the  "  lodges  in  a  garden  of  cucumbers," 
Isa.  i.  8.  The  guard  rushes  out  like  a 
fierce  dog  at  all  who  pick  and  steal, 
and  is  the  subject  of  vast  abuse  from 
the  baffled  wayfaring  Spaniards,  who 
swear  that  the  grapes  are  sour,  and  he 
is  a  pufu'tero;  nor  is  the  guardian  slow 
in  returning  his  com}idos  and  other 
ancient  and  classical  compliments ;  but 
Ninas  y  viuas  son  malas  de  guardar ;  y 
miedo  guarda  la  viila  y  no  el  vinadero. 
Those  who  wish  to  see  all  the  glory  of 
grapes  should  be  here  during  the 
Bendeja  —  vintage  —  in  the  autumn. 
Another  fruit  abounds  at  Malaga,  the 
Batata,  or  sweet  potato,  the  Convol- 
vulus Batatas  of  Linnaeus,  which  was 
introduced  from  the  S.  Americas ;  it  is 
used  as  a  sweetmeat,  and  is  sold  ready 
boiled  in  the  streets.  Among  eatables 
may  be  mentioned  a  small  fish,  called 
Janqueta,  something  like  white  bait. 
Generally  speaking  the  meat  is  bad  in 
Malaga ;  agriculture  being  as  much 
neglected  here  as  floriculture.  The 
fish  is  excellent — that  fattens  itself — 
while  cattle  require  the  care  of  man. 
The  botanist  may  consult  the  Voyage 
Botanique.  Boissier,  1837  ;  and  he 
should  visit  a  nopal  garden — where 
the  cochineal  coccus  cacti  is  reared  on 
the  Opuntia  Coccinellifera :  the  period 
of  gathering  the  insect  is  in  May. 

About  7  L.  N.E.  of  Malaga  are  the 
celebrated  mineral  baths  of  Carratraca. 
The  best  accommodations  are  at  the 
Casa  Donoy,  and  the  Parador  de  Juan 
Arcos.  The  medical  director.  Dr. 
Monja,  is  the  Dr.  Granville  of  the  lo- 
cality. The  waters  are  sulphuretted  hy- 
drogen of  the  temperature  of  14°  Reau- 
mur; the  source  is  constant  and 
abundant.  They  are  much  frequented 
from  June  20  to  Sept.  20.  The  large  open 
tanks,  albercaSy  in  which  the  patients 
bathe,  are  a  disgrace  to  decency  and 
civilization.  Cosas  de  Espaua.  (See 
Madoz,  V.  615.)  Near  this  place  and 
Hardales  is  a  singular  cavern,  dis- 
covered in  1821,  the  glittering  stalac- 
tites and  spars  of  which,  if  visited  by 
torch-light,  produce  a  magical  effect. 


Malaga  communicates  with  Mar- 
seilles and  the  Eastern  coast  of  Spain 
by  means  of  a  regular  service  of  in- 
different steamers ;  they  also  go  west- 
ward to  Cadiz;  Heredia  established 
another  line,  which  is,  or  was,  to  run 
backwards  and  forwards  to  Bilbao ;  in- 
land, new  roads  are  contemplated  be- 
tween Cordova  and  Granada.  Mean- 
while there  are  2  roads  from  Malaga 
to  Granada :  the  first,  which  is  very 
bad  and  circuitous,  is  by  Loja,  12  L. ; 
it  takes  14  or  15  h.  to  nde.  The  Tor- 
cales  and  stony  lusi-natune  will  in- 
terest the  geologist.  This  is  performed 
by  a  diligence,  which  starts  from  the 
Alameda  hotel ;  the  first  portion  is  very 
hilly  and  lonely ;  on  ascending  to  the 
Ftiente  de  la  Reina  (taste  the  water)  the 
views  over  Malaga  are  glorious.  After 
Colmenary  4  L.,  occur  several  bad  ventas ; 
that  del  Pobre  is  worthy  of  its  name  ; 
take,  therefore,  from  Malaga  a  well- 
filled  basket.  Passing  the  Puerto  and 
descending  to  the  Venta  de  Alazores, 
Loja  is  reached,  where  the  coach  stops 
an  hour  or  so.    See  for  Loja  p.  255. 

Route  25. — Malaga  to  Granada^ 
BT  Alhama. 

Velez  Malaga   ....  5 

Vifiuela 2.  . .  1 

Alhama 4  . .  1 1 

Cacin 2  . .  13 

La  Mala 2  ..  15 

Granada 3  . .  18 

This  is  by  far  the  most  interesting 
route,  but  it  must  be  ridden.  Attend  to 
the  provend ;  you  can  hire  mules  and 
horses  at  La  Danzas,  which  generally 
are  charged  12  dollars  each  for  the 
journey  to  Granada  and  back;  you 
can  engage  one  Manual  Ramos  on  the 
tour  round  Granada,  Ronda,  to  Gib- 
raltar; or  Pedro  Perez,  who  is  well 
spoken  of;  at  all  events,  fill  the  hota 
and  basket,  for  the  road  is  stony  and 
hungry.  A  well-girt  horseman,  by 
leaving  Malaga  at  4j  a.m.,  may  reach 
Velez  Malaga  at  9^,  where  he  may 
breakfast  and  bait  the  ganado.  It  will 
take  about  7  h.  to  arrive  at  Alhama, 
where  sleep;  by  leaving  Alhama  at  6 
A.M.,  and  allowing  half  an  hour  to  see 
the  baths,  Granada  may  be  reached 
between   2   and   3   in  the  afternoon. 


Honda  ^  Granada, 


EOUTE  25. — ^ALHAMA. 


289 


Those  who  prefer  sleeping  at  Velez 
Malaga  may  leave  Malaga  in  the  dili- 
gence, which  gets  there  in  ahout  4  h. ; 
and  start  early  for  Granada  the  next 
morning,  as  14  h.  will  be  required. 

The  road  to  Velez  Maliga  is  good 
and  has  its  diligence.  The  sea  and 
the  Atalaya  towers  lie  to  the  rt.,  the 
vine-clad  mountains  to  the  1.  Velez 
Malaga,  Menoba,  or  Sex  Sesta,  rises, 
with  spires  and  fortress,  on  a  gentle 
eminence  over  the  Rubito,  pop.  14,000. 
Posada  de  los  Caballeros:  Observe  the 
towers  of  the  two  parroquias.  N.B. 
Taste  the  Miel  de  Cana,  or  sugar-cane 
honey ;  for  local  history  consult 
*  Historia  y  Grandezas  de  Belez*  Fran- 
cisco de  Vedmar,  Granada,  4to., 
1652.  The  climate  is  delicious.  The 
martlets,  thick  as  motes  in  the  sun- 
beam, appi'ove  the  sweet-wooing  breath 
of  Heaven.  It  is  in  the  heart  of  a 
land  overflowing  with  oil  and  wine ; 
here  is  the  palm  without  the  desert, 
the  sugar-cane  without  the  slave.  The 
spires  and  convents  cluster  around  the 
ruins  of  a  rock-built  Moorish  castle ; 
above  rise  the  lordly  barren  mountains 
de  Teiada,  which  look  coldly  down  on 
the  industry  of  the  humble  plain. 
The  water-courses,  which  have  peeled 
the  sierras,  deposit  the  soil  and  detritus 
in  the  valleys  of  Velez,  and  the  com- 
bination of  moisture  under  a  tropical 
sun  produces  the  batata,  indigo,  and 
sugar-cane.  The  latter  was  brought 
here  from  Sicily  by  the  Carthaginians. 
The  ancients  did  not  understand  the 
processes  of  crystallization  and  re- 
fining; the  canes  were  sold  in  the 
streets  (Lucan.  iii.  237)  just  as  they 
now  are  in  Andalucia ;  the  Moors  intro- 
duced the  cultivation.  Ebn-el-Awam, 
writing  in  1140,  quotes  from  an  earlier 
Arabian  author  the  methods  of  culture. 
The  sugar-cane  was  first  sent  to  His- 
paniola  from  these  parts  in  1506.  It 
is  still  cultivated  about  the  town,  and 
sugar  made  here. 

The  town  was  taken  from  the  Moors 
by  Ferdinand  el  Catolico  in  person,  who 
himself  here  killed  a  Moor,  with  which 
he  was  so  pleased  that  he  gave  the 
city  for  its  arms  his  own  figure  on 
horseback  spearing  an  infidel.  In  the 
Encamacion  is   preserved    the   sacra- 

Spain» — I. 


mental  plate  used  hj  him  after  this 
victory.  The  Hermitage  San  Sebastian 
was  founded  in  1489  by  Ferdinand,  in 
honour  of  the  self-sacrificing  Sebas- 
tian Pelao,  who  saved  the  king  from 
the  spear  of  an  infidel  by  placing  him- 
self between. 

Velez  Malaga  was  the  birthplace  of 
Joaquin  Blake,  the  friend  or  Mahy, 
Ballesteros,  and  of  all  opposed  to  the 
Duke  and  the  English  alliance :  he 
was  the  loser  of  more  pitched  battles 
(" mas  de  cien"  says  his  worthy  eulo- 
gist Maldonado)  than  any  man  in 
ancient  or  modern  history,  Spanish 
included.  He  was  the  son  of  a  rebel 
Irish  shopkeeper,  and  began  life  as  a 
lecturer  in  a  military  school  on  the 
art  of  war :  the  poor  pedant,  learned 
in  theory,  never  mastered  its  practice, 
and  to  his  "  ignorance  in  his  profes- 
sion "  the  Duke  ascribed  his  last  feat, 
the  loss  of  Valencia;  but  his  defeats 
never  made  him  unpopular  with  Spa- 
niards, who  admired  his  courage,  and 
still  more  his  Espaiiolismo  and  patri- 
otismo,  in  preferring  being  routed  him- 
self, rather  than  permitting  better  men, 
because  foreigners,  to  lead  Spaniards  to 
victory. 

This  "  child  in  the  art  of  war  "  was 
no  relation  of  Robert  Blake,  the  great 
admiral  of  Cromwell,  who  at  the  age 
of  fifty  passed  from  the  army  into 
naval  command,  and  always  was  vic- 
torious ;  he  was  the  master  and  terror 
of  the  Mediterranean.  He,  in  1664, 
summoned  the  viceroy  of  Malaga  to 
surrender  to  him  a  priest  at  whose 
instigation  the  mob  had  risen  upon 
some  English  sailors  during  a  religious 
pageant.  The  governor  trembled  and 
complied.  Blake  received  the  culprit, 
who  expected  death,  with  great  kind- 
ness, and  sent  him  back  with  a  mes- 
sage that  he  would  prevent  his  sailors' 
misbehaviour  for  the  future,  "  but 
that  no  one  should  presume  to  punish 
Englishmen  except  himself." 

The  road  now  becomes  infamous, 
2  L.  to  Vinuela  are  pleasant;  nature 
here  is  fruity,  and  verdurous.  It  is 
the  home  of  Pomona  and  Flora. 
Passing  ruined  Zalea,  the  mountains 
become  steep  and  barren.  Alhama  is 
so  called  from  the  baths,  Al-Hammdm 

o 


290 


ROUTE  25. — BATHS  OF  ALHAMA. 


Sect.  III. 


(whence  our  Hummums  in  Covent 
Garden).  The  number  of  these  which 
existed  in  the  time  of  the  cleanly 
Romans  and  Moors  is  evidenced  by 
the  frequent  recurrence  of  places  called 
caldas,  caHdas^  hot  springs,  and  Al- 
hamas.  The  town,  wild  and  pictur- 
esque, is  the  Ronda  of  these  alpine 
districts,  and  is  perched  on  the  edge 
of  an  awful  rent  in  the  hills  round 
which  the  river  Marchan  sweeps,  and 
backed  by  its  own  sierra,  in  which 
the  Tejada  rises  8000  ft.  above  the 
sea.  It  was  the  land-key  of  Granada, 
and  its  romantic  capture,  Feb.  28, 
1482,  by  the  Ms.  of  Cadiz,  spread  con- 
sternation into  the  Alhambra,  and 
paved  the  way  for  the  final  conquest 
of  Granada.  The  well-known  plain- 
tive ballad  commencing  **AyI  de  mi 
Alhamil**  (which  Bvron  translated 
"  Woe  is  me  Alhamaf**  but  it  should 
be  "Alasl  for  my  Alhama!")  ex- 
pressed the  national  lamentation  of 
the  Moors.  Consult  for  historical  facts 
Pulgar,  *  Chronica  de  los  ReyeSf  iii.  2. 
The  place  was  sacked  by  the  French, 
Feb.  2,  1810,  when  the  clergy  and 
notables  were  butchered  (Madoz,  i. 
699). 

Prudent  travellers  will  put  up  for 
the  night  at  a  private  house  on  the 
Plfizuy  known  to  Bamos  and  experi- 
enced muleteers,  by  the  name  of 
La  Casa  de  los  Caballeros,  the 
Gentlemen's  house:  it  is  clean  and 
free  from  vermin,  but  the  larder  is 
empty.  As  for  the  regular  posada, 
albeit  ycleped  La  Grande,  it  is  truly 
iniquitous :  diminutive  indeed  are  the 
accommodations,  colossal  the  incon- 
veniences ;  but  this  is  a  common  mis- 
ndmer  en  las  cosas  de  Espana.  Thus 
Philip  IV.  was  called  El  Grande,  under 
whose  fatal  rule  Spain  crumbled  into 
nothing,  when,  like  a  ditch,  he  became 
greater  in  proportion  as  more  land 
was  taken  away.  All  who  are  wise 
will  bring  from  Malaga  a  good  ham- 
per of  eatables,  a  bota  of  wine,  and 
gome  cigars,  for,  however  devoid  of 
creature-comforts  this  grand  hotel, 
there  is  a  grand  supply  of  creeping 
creatures,  and  the  traveller  runs  a  risk 
of  bidding  adieu  to  sleep,  and  passing 
♦he  night  exclaiming.  Ay!  de  mi  Al- 


hama.   Matters  are,  however,  somewhat 
mended  lately. 

Alhama  continues  to  bear  for  its 
arms  a  castle  with  two  keys,  emblem- 
atic of  its  being  one  of  the  keys  of 
Granada.     It  was  the  Astigis  Juliensis 
of  the  Romans.    In  the  Moorish  period 
it  was  much  frequented  for  the  baths 
(which  can  be  visited  next  day  when 
riding  past  them) ;  now  it  is  a  picture 
of  decay.    The  traveller  may  look  at 
the  aqueduct  on  the  Plaza,  peep  over 
the  tajo,  pass  on  to  the  church,  with 
its  single  tower,  and  thence  under  an 
archway  by  the  miserable  prison,  from 
whose     lofty     grated    windows     the 
stranger  is  howled  at  by  wretches  in 
whose  eye  is  famine,  and  on  whose 
countenance  is  guilt  and  oppression: 
the  inmates  let  down  by  long  strings 
baskets  to  receive  rare   donations  of 
food,  alms,  and  occasionally  files,  false 
keys,  and  implements  for  escape,  as  used 
to  be  done  in  England.     Compare  our 
*  Spectator,'  No.  82.    Passing  the  arch 
at  the  head  of  a  staircase  which  leads 
into  the  church  is  a  most  picturesque 
house  in  which  many  varieties  of  ar- 
chitectural   style    are    introduced    in 
juxtaposition.    There  are  the  Gothic 
windows  of  the  fifteenth  century,  the 
peculiar  "  6a/r*  ornament  so  frequent 
m  Toledo ;  there  are  the  projecting 
ornaments  such  as  occur  at  Salamanca 
and  Guadalajara,  with  an  Arragonese 
character  of  solidity,  all  combined  in 
this   singular  fa9ade ;    many  of   the 
houses  of  Alhama  are  casas  solares,  or 
the  family  mansions  granted  to  those 
who   assisted  at  the  conquest.     The 
stone  of  which  they  are  built  is  much 
corroded.    The  armorial  bearings  over 
the  portals  contrast  with  the  misery 
in-doors,   and  pride  is   coupled  with 
poverty.    The   population   is  clad  in 
brown  like  that  of  La  Mancha,  for  the 
gay  Andaluz  Majo  has  disappeared. 

The  view  of  the  tajo  from  the  con- 
vent is  striking.  Below  tears  the 
foaming  Marchan,  winding  through 
ravines  and  rocky  pinnacles.  The 
whole  scene,  Ronda  on  a  smaller  scale, 
is  made  for  the  painter ;  on  the  ledges 
of  the  beetling  cliffs  picturesque  houses 
topple,  with  trellised  vines  and  hang- 
ing gardens,   while  below    boil    the 


Ronda  ^  Graimda.    route  25. — kingdom  of  granada. 


291 


streams  of  water-mills  and  cascades. 
Alhama  is  seen  to  best  advantage  at 
its  fair-time,  Sept.  8. 

The  road  to  Granada  descends  from 
Alhama.  Continuing  up  the  bed  of  the 
river,  and  passing  a  picturesque  mill, 
to  the  1.,  at  a  short  distance,  are  the 
mineral  baths.  The  waters  issue  out 
of  a  dip  in  the  hills,  in  that  sort  of 
position  so  common  to  warm  volcanic 
springs.  They  are  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  nitrogen  gas,  as  was  first 
ascertained  by  Dr.  Daubeny  (see  also 
Madoz,  i.  593) ;  considered  to  be  bene- 
ficial for  dyspepsia  and  rheumatism, 
they  are  frequented  in  spring  and 
autumn.  The  bath  called  el  Baiio  de 
la  Beijna  is  circular,  has  a  dome  over 
it  like  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  a  round 
opening  to  the  sky,  and  quite  in  the 
style  of  the  Romans,  by  whom  it  pro- 


bably was  erected.  The  Moorish  bath, 
el  Baiio  fuerte,  so  called  from  the  heat 
and  strength  of  the  waters,  as  it  is 
nearer  their  source,  is  well  preserved 
and  very  picturesque,  with  its  emerald 
pool  and  spiry  clouds  of  steam.  A 
new  bath  for  one  person  has  recently 
been  constructed,  in  a  parallelogram 
form,  with  steps  to  descend  into  it; 
placed  between  the  two  older  ones. 

The  road  reascends,  soon  to  descend 
by  a  deep  gorge  to  the  wretched  village 
of  (7«cm,  which  is  placed  at  the  bottom 
of  a  funnel.  Reascending  it  continues 
to  the  poor  Venta  de  Huelnuiy  and 
thence  to  La  Maid,  with  its  sa/f-pans, 
Arabic^  Malaha ;  about  2  m.  on  it 
enters  the  Vega  of  Granada,  which  is 
spread  out  like  a  green  carpet  below 
the  towering  Sierra  Nevada,  now  seen 
in  all  its  alpine  majesty. 


Kingdom  of  Granada. 

The  kingdom  of  Granada  is  the  most  eastern  of  "  Los  Cuatro  Reinos"  The 
length  from  E.  to  W.S.W.  is  about  240  miles ;  its  breadth  Varies  from  30  to 
80.  The  area  contains  about  9000  square  m.,  and  the  population  reaches  a 
million.  It  consists  of  mountains,  plains,  "  Vegas  **  (Bekslh,  Arabic^,  a  watered 
valley  between  hills),  and  a  maritime  strip.  The  Sierra  Nevada,  with  its 
"diadem  of  snow,"  rises  nearly  13,000  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  which 
washes  its  S.  slopes.  Thus,  under  a  latitude  of  37°,  eternal  snow  and  the 
blood-heat  of  Africa  are  combined ;  hence  every  variety  of  production,  from 
the  hardiest  lichen  to  the  cotton-plant  and  sugar«-cane.  This  kingdom,  being 
the  last  home  of  the  Moors,  who  fied  hither  from  the  Christian  advance, 
became  the  epitome  of  their  various  arts,  commerce,  and  agriculture,  of  which 
none  have  survived,  save  the  latter ;  and  that,  albeit  degenerated,  still  forms 
the  wealth  of  the  province,  which  teems  with  corn  and  wine,  oil,  silk,  and 
fruit.  The  snowy  range  is  a  perpetual  Alembic  of  fertilising  water,  which  is 
commensurate  with  the  heats ;  as  the  hotter  the  weather  the  greater  is  the 
melting.  The  water  is  wealth,  for  the  soil  of  the  plains,  although  light, 
becomes  highly  productive  under  combined  heat  and  moisture.  The  hemp  is 
the  finest  in  the  world,  and  the  succession  of  the  crops  never  ceases.  The  line 
of  irrigation,  like  a  Rubicon,  divides  the  desert  from  a  paradise,  while  all  within 
its  influence  is  green  and  fruitful,  all  beyond  it  is  barren  and  tawny — a  feature 
frequent  in  this  Land  of  Contrasts.  In  objects  of  interest  Granada,  and  there  is 
attraction  in  the  very  name,  contains  the  Alhambra.  The  alpine  range  of  the 
AlpujarraSy  grand  beyond  conception,  is  the  Switzerland  oi  Spain ;  nor  can 
anything  be  more  sunny  and  Mediterranean  than  the  littoral  districts. 

This  mountain  range  pregnant  with  interest  to  the  artist,  the  botanist, 
and  geologist,  abounds  with  minerals  and  beautiful  marbles.  Well,  there- 
fore, might  the  Moors  consider  this  favoured  region  to  be  a  portion  of  heaven 
fallen  on  the  earth.  Few  parts  of  the  Peninsula  present  a  sadder  contrast 
between  the  past  and  the  present.  Under  the  Moors  Granada  was  rich,  bril- 
liant, learned,  industrious,  and  gallant,  now  it  is  poor,  dull,  ignorant,  indolent  ^ 

o  2 


292  ROUTE  25. — HISTORY  OF  GRANADA.  Sect.  III. 

and  dastardly.  The  Spaniards,  have,  indeed,  laboured  hard  to  neutralise  the 
gifts  of  a  lavish  nature,  and  to  dwarf  this  once  proud  capital  down'  to  a  para- 
lysed provincial  town.  The  Granadan  native  partakes  more  of  the  Murcian 
than  the  Andalucian,  and  has  little  in  common  with  the  Moor,  whose  domi- 
nion, nevertheless,  lasted  longer  here  than  elsewhere  in  the  Peninsula.  The 
best  time  to  visit  Granada,  and  make  excursions  in  the  mountains,  is  from 
June  to  October. 

The  name  Granada  is  a  corruption  from  Kamdttah,  the  ancient  fortress  of 
Phcenician  origin.  The  prefix  car  occurs  in  many  "  cities  "  built  on  an  emi- 
nence, e.  g.  Carthago,  Carteia,  Carmona,  Cartama.  Nata  has  been  interpreted 
by  some  as  "  stranger,"  the  "  city  of  the  stranger,"  of  "  pilgrims  "  (Casiri, 
'  ^1*6.  Esc*  ii.  247),  and  by  others  as  the  name  of  a  local  goddess.  The  town 
Kamdttahy  at  the  Moorish  invasion,  was  given  by  one  of  Tarik's  lieutenants  to 
the  "  Jews,"  and  hence  was  called  "  Karnattah-al-Yahood."  It  occupied  the 
site  of  the  present  "  Torres  Bennejas"  and  ranged  above  the  "  Campo  del  Prin- 
cipe," being  quite  distinct  from  Illiberis,  with  which  it  has  since  been  con- 
founded. This  Illiberis,  which  signifies  in  Basque  the  "  new  city "  (Nea- 
polis,  Newtown,  Neustadt,  Villanueva),  was  built  on  the  Sierra  Elvira. 

When  the  Umeyyah  kalifate  was  broken  up,  Illiberis  was  seized  by  a  Berber 
chief,  whose  nephew,  Habiis  Ibn  Mdkesen,  in  1019,  removed  his  residence  to 
the  stronger  position  of  Kamattah,  and  then  as  usual  destroyed  the  older  town, 
**  Granada  la  Vieja"  employing  the  Phoenician  and  Roman  remains  as  a  quarry 
for  his  new  buildings.  The  conquests  of  Jaime  I.  in  Valencia,  and  of  St. 
Ferdinand  in  Andalucia,  ruinous  elsewhere  to  the  Moorish  cause,  created  the 
prosperity  of  Granada,  which  became  the  asylum  of  every  Moslem  refugee 
from  all  other  parts  of  Spain.  The  remnant  of  the  Moors  now  fled  to  the 
rocky  fastnesses  of  the  Alpujarras  before  the  triumphant  cross,  as  the  Goths 
had  retired  to  the  Asturias  before  the  conquering  crescent.  Ibnu-1-ahmar, 
"  the  red  man,"  the  successful  upstart  ruler  of  Jaen,  and  reluctant  vassal  of 
St.  Ferdinand,  was  the  real  founder  of  this  kingdom.  He  was  a  prince  eminent 
in  every  respect,  and  his  talents  (obt.  1273)  were  inherited  by  his  two  suc- 
cessors. Then  was  erected  the  Alhambra,  the  fortress  palace,  which  Moors 
have  delighted  to  adorn,  and  Spaniards  to  disfigure.  The  death  of  St.  Ferdi- 
nand was  the  life  to  the  infant  monarchy  of  Granada,  for  his  heir,  Alonso, 
catching  at  shadows  lost  real  substances,  and  wasted  the  gold  of  Spain,  in  his 
foolish  ambition  to  become  Emperor  of  Germany.  The  civil  wars  which 
clouded  his  later  years,  and  weakened  his  successors,  gave  time  to  the  Moorish 
kingdom  to  grow  strong,  as  the  Christians  turned  against  each  other  those 
arms  which  might  better  have  been  employed  against  the  common  enemy,  the 
infidel. 

Granada,  which  under  the  Moors  contained  half  a  million  souls,  was  most 
flourishing.  The  date  of  its  ruin  is  Jan.  2,  1492,  when  the  banner  of  Castile 
first  floated  on  the  towers  of  the  Alhambra.  Internal  dissensions,  by  which 
Ibnu-1-ahmar  was  enabled  to  found  the  kingdom,  led  to  its  decline  and  ruin  ; 
and  as  Cava  prepared  the  ruin  of  the  Gothic  monarchy,  and  opened  the  throne 
to  the  Moors,  so  a  Christian  woman  now  occasioned  the  Moslem  downfall. 
Her  name  was  Isabel  de  Solis,  on  whom  Martinez  de  la  Rosa  wrote  a  poor 
novel.  She  was  the  daughter  of  the  governor  of  Martos,  and,  being  taken  pri- 
soner by  the  Moors,  became  the  favourite  wife  of  Abii-1-hasan,  king  of 
Granada.  Her  Moorish  appellation  is  Zoraya,  "  Morning  Star,"  in  allusion 
to  her  surpassing  beauty,  on  account  of  which  'Ayeshah,  another  wife  and 
cousin  of  Abii-1'hasan,  became  jealous  of  her  rival,  and  the  court  was  divided 
into  two  parties.  The  Zegris  {Thegrinif  the  people  who  came  from  T/iegr  or 
Arragon)  espoused  her  faction,  and  the  Abencerrages,  the  Beni  Cerraj  (the 
children  of  the  saddle,  or  palace),  that  of  Zorayah.  In  June,  1 482,  Abii-Abdillah, 
■"-n  of  Ayeshah,  19th  kmg,  dethroned  his  father.    His  name  was  corrupted 


Ronda  Sf  Granada,    route  25. — conquest  of  granada.  293 

by  Spaniards  into  Boabdila,  while  the  Moors  also  called  him  As'Saghir,  the 
younger — the  less  (whence  the  Spanish  term,  el  Bey  chico),  to  distinguish  him 
from  Abii-l-hasan,  his  father,  and  often  called  el  Zogoibi,  the  unfortunate.  Thus 
the  Moorish  house  was  divided  against  itself,  just  when  Castile  and  Arragon 
were  united  under  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.  On  the  Hey  chico*s  being  taken  pri- 
soner at  Lucena  in  1483,  the  old  king  returned,  and,  being  blind,  abdicated  i^ 
favour  of  his  brother,  Mohamed  XII.,  called  Az-zaghal,  the  valiant.  Boabdil  now 
became  a  vassal  of  Ferdinand,  and  at  length,  after  a  long  siege,  surrendered 
himself  and  his  kingdom.  According  to  Arabian  authors,  he  was  treated 
harshly ;  certain  it  is  that  the  Spaniards  violated  most  of  the  pledges  and  capi* 
tulations.  Cardinal  Ximenez,  deaf  to  the  entreaties  of  the  mild  Ferdinand  de 
Talavera,  the  first  archbishop  of  Granada,  proceeded  to  convert  men  by  fire 
and  sword,  at  which  the  Moors  rebelled,  and  were  then  put  down  without 
mercy.  Again  similar  ill  usage,  in  1570,  drove  them  to  arms;  again  they 
were  crushed  by  John  of  Austria,  and  finally  expelled,  in  1610,  by  Philip  III., 
as  the  Protestants  afterwards  were  by  Louis  XIV.  This  great  crime  was  then 
imputed  to  him  as  a  glory,  and  made  the  subject  of  sundry  second-rate  poems ; 
and,  in  fact,  he  was  yelled  on  by  all  Spain,  which  thirsted  for  their  blood  and 
gold ;  now  that  the  ill  effects  of  this  deed  are  evident,  it  is  alleged  in  his  excuse 
that  the  Moriscos,  differing  in  blood  and  creed,  were  dangerous  aliens  on  an  ex- 
posed coast,  and  that  they  were  always  ready  to  join  an  invader,  whether  Moslem 
or  Christian.  In  addition,  the  example  of  the  Moors  was  quoted  as  a  precedent 
against  themselves ;  for  when  the  Al-mu*lihidm,  or  Spanish  Christians,  who 
continued  to  live  among  them,  invited  Alonso  I.  of  Arragon  to  invade  Granada 
in  1 122,  they  were  in  consequence  banished  to  Western  Africa  (Moh.  D.  ii.  307). 
The  Moors,  when  free  and  powerful,  were  feared",  hated,  and  honoured  by  Spa- 
niards, Cahalleros  aun  Moros ;  when  conquered  they  were  termed  Moriscos^ "  little 
Moors,"  a  diminutive  which  implies  contempt.  Vce  victis  I  for  then  they  were 
converted,  robbed,  burnt,  and  finally  banished. 

The  details  of  the  conquest  of  Granada  must  be  looked  for  in  Prescott*s  abl6 
work.  The  effects  are  less  understood.  The  possession  of  the  Moors,  the  appa- 
rent weakness  of  Spain,  was  in  fact  the  secret  of  her  strength.  Then  all  parties, 
as  in  their  private  juntas,  united  to  pull  down  the  holder  of  power,  and  when 
that  was  accomplished,  fell  to  loggerheads  with  each  other,  quarrelling  for  the 
spoil.  The  struggle  during  the  war,  like  a  breeze  upon  a  lake,  kept  fresh  the 
energies  of  the  nation.  Thus  while  the  taking  of  Constantinople  by  the  Turks, 
which  was  thought  by  the  infallible  Pope  to  be  a  calamity  and  divine  judg- 
ment, turned  out  to  be  a  divine  blessing,  by  the  dispersion  of  classical  lore, 
the  harbinger  of  modem  knowledge,  the  capture  of  Granada,  which  the  same 
oracle  pronounced  to  be  a  compensation  for  that  infidel  success,  proved  the 
cause  of  the  ruin  of  Spain.  It  paved  the  way  to  the  loss  of.  all  liberty,  to 
apathy,  corruption,  and  death ;  the  mainspring  which  a  war  of  eight  centuries, 
pro  arts  et  focis,  had  kept  in  motion  ceased  to  vibrate  wheii  the  great  end  was 
accomplished;  a  reaction  ensued;  a  moral  and  physical  stagnation  came 
over  the  listless  conquerors.  Civil  and  religious  despotism  saw  and  seized  the 
moment,  so  advantageous  to  itself,  and  whilst  the  people  of  Spain  were  giving 
loose  to  the  disarmed  intoxication  of  success,  they  were  shorn  of  their  strength, 
and  awoke  from  the  lascivious  dream  emasculated  and  enslaved.  Castile, 
like  her  arid,  tree-stripped  plains,  from  the  lack  of  the  nutriment  of  wholesome 
institutions,  withered  away ;  a  curse  was  on  her  womb ;  she  became  incapable 
of  giving  birth  to  men  who  should  do  deeds  worthy  to  be  had  in  remembrance, 
or  to  authors  whose  works  posterity  would  not  willingly  let  die.  Read,  there- 
fore, in  the  Alhambra^  the  legend  tales  and  ballad  romances  of  the  old  days  of 
Crusade.  The  melancholy  retrogression  of  a  once  noble  nation  increases  the 
interest  of  these  relics  of  better  times,  which  have  drifted  down  like  the  spars 
of  a  storm- wrecked  battle-ship.  In  this  contrast  between  former  pride  of  plac^ 
and  present  nothingness,  our  sympathy,  as  we  tread  the  lonely  Alhambra, 


294  ROUTE  25. — ^BOOKS  ON  GRANADA.  St»ct.  III. 

awakened  by  the  relvjio  loci,  and  the  more  when  the  change  is  borne  with 
uncomplainiug  dignity ;  for  bitter,  in  the  words  of  Dante,  is  the  pang 
"  ricordarsi  del  tempo  felice  nella  miseria."  Spain,  like  a  Porus,  dethroned, 
yet  conscious  of  innate  royalty  from  which  nought  can  derogate,  looks  down 
with  self-respect  on  the  changes  and  chances  of  fickle  fortune.  Although  now 
the  mock  of  Europe,  which  once  grew  pale  at  her  name,  Granada  is  still  the 
chosen  laud  of  romance,  where  the  present  is  forgotten  in  the  past,  and  where, 
although  her  harp  be  unstrung,  and  her  sword  pointless,  the  tale  of  Anld  la7ig 
s^/ne  still  re-echoes  through  her  bentiyrtled  courts,  where,  although  her  laurel- 
leaf  be  sere,  the  many  flowers  which  still  enamel  the  neglected  Generalife  attest 
that  once  a  garden  smiled. 

The  persecuted  Moriscos  were  amply  revenged  by  the  French.  The  rout  of 
Ocana  gave  Granada  to  Sebastiani ;  then  the  strong  mountain  passes  of  Alcald 
el  Heal  were  abandoned  without  firing  a  shot  by  Freire,  the  hero  of  San  Marcial  I 
and  thus  the  invaders  conquered  the  kingdom  of  Granada  in  fewer  days  than  the 
Spaniards  had  employed  centuries.  The  Granadine  patriots,  distinguished  eveii 
in  Andalucia  for  bragging  and  doing  nothing,  scarcely  made  a  semblance  of  de- 
fence. Then  the  Alhambra  was  desolated,  churches  and  palaces  were  pillaged, 
books  and  MSS.  made  into  cartridges,  prisoners  and  monks  put  to  death,  having' 
been  first  tortured  with  an  ingenuity  of  cruelty :  see  e.  g,  the  executionof  Moreno. 
Soult  at  last  became  jealous  of  Sebastiani,  a  colleague  who  collected  pictures, 
"  et  qui  (although  by  birth  the  son  of  a  Corsican  cooper)  se  faisait  prince," 
and  he  procured  his  rival's  dismissal.  Sebastiani  quitted  Granada  June  26, 
1811,  "avec  un  grand  transport,  sous  escorte,"  "goods  carefully  removed," 
of  all  his  treasures.  The  transports  of  the  people  were  even  greater :  "  Comme 
le  nom  de  Murat  est  ^ternisd  dans  Madrid,  le  sien  Test  k  Granade,"  says  Sche- 
peler,  who  gives  the  details  of  lust,  rapine,  and  butchery  (iii.  112,  167-169), 
which,  with  this  Corsican's  collectings,  are  all  blinked  by  Mons.  Maison. 

The  local  and  county  histories,  and  other  works  referring  to  the  important 
events  and  "  romance  "  of  Granada,  are  infinite.  For  details  of  the  final  con- 
quest in  1492,  consult  the  eye-witnesses,*  Chronica  de  los  Reyes,  Hernando  de 
Fulgar,  folio,  Montfort,  Valencia,  1780;  ^Decades*  duo,  CElius  Antonio  Ne- 
brissensis  (Antonio  de  Lebrija),  Granada,  1550,  or  folio,  Gran.,  1545;  ^Opus 
Epistolarum*  Petri  Martyris  Anglerii,  folio,  Alcala  de  Henares,  1 530,  or  the 
Elz^ir  reprint,  folio,  Amsterdam,  1670;  the  Conquest  of  Granada*  by  Mr. 
Irving ;  and  the  *  History  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,*  by  Mr.  Prescott,  a  work 
of  first-rate  excellence.  For  the  "  romance,"  the  *  Guerras  de  Granada,*  2 
vols.,  a  Moorish  tale  of  *  sixty  years  since,'  the  prototype  of  the  Waverley 
novels,  and  which  has  gone  through  as  many  editions,  written  by  Gil  Perez 
of  Murcia,  it  was  translated,  or  rather  murdered,  into  French,  by  one  A. 
M.  San^,  Paris,  1809.  The  rapid  and  immediate  deterioration  of  Granada 
under  the  Spaniards  is  told  by  an  eye-witness  in  *  77  Viaggio  Fatto  in  Spagna* 
Andrea  Navagiero,  Vinegia,  1563  —  a  little  gem.  Consult  the  admirable 
*  Mohamedan  Dynasties  *  of  Gayangos,  not  omitting  his  article  on  the 
Moors  in  the  *  Penny  Cyclopaedia ; '  for  the  rebellion  of  the  Moriscos,  *  ^js- 
toriade  la  Rebellion*  Luys  de  Marmol  Carvajal,  folio,  Malaga,  1600,  or  the 
Sancha  edition,  2  vols.  4to.,  Madrid,  1797,  which  contains  a  good  map  of  Gra- 
nada by  Felix  Prieto ;  also  *  Las  Giterras  de  Granada,*  by  Diego  Hurtado  de 
Mendoza ;  of  this  the  editions  are  infinite.  That  of  Mallen,  Valencia,  1830,  is 
convenient  in  form.  Beware  of  the  inaccurate  French  works  of  Florian  and 
Chateaubriand,  which  can  only  mislead.  For  antiquities  consult  *Antigiiedades 
de  Granada,*  Francisco  Bermudez  de  Pedraza,  4to.  Madrid,  1608 ;  or  the  second 
and  improved  edition,  folio.  Gran.  1638.  There  is  a  modem  reprint  of  a  por- 
tion of  it,  4to.,  by  Francisco  Gomez  Espinosa  de  Monteros,  Gran.  s.  d.,  but 
about  1819;  *Dialogos  de  las  Cosas  Notables  de  G.*  Luys  de  la  Cueva,  4 to. 
"  'villa,  1603  ;  *  Paseospor  G.,*  Juan  de  Echeverria.  These  were  first  published 
'64,  in  weekly  papers,  under  the  name  of  Josef.  Romero  Iranzo,  and  then 


Bonda  ^  Granada.  route  25. — granada.  295 

republished  in  2  vols.  4to.  Gran.  1814,  by  Julian  Maria  Perez.  Echeverriai  was 
ignorant  of  Arabic,  and  not  partial  to  truth.  When  our  good  friend,  Canon 
Juan  Soler,  asked  him  why  he  did  not  continue  the  work,  he  replied,  "  Ustot/ 
catisado  de  mentir"  1  am  tired  of  lying.  *  Cartas  del  Sacristan  de  Finos,  4  vols, 
duo..  Gran.  1 761 ;  but  one  of  the  best  guides  for  the  Alhambra  is  *  Nuevos  Paseos* 
3  vols,  duo.,  Simon  de  Argote.  The  third  volume  is  very  scarce :  the  author 
never  even  saw  it  in  print ;  it  was  only  just  put  up  in  type  when  the  French 
evacuated  the  city,  and,  as  he  was  an  Afrancesado,  and  a  jackal  of  Sebastiani, 
he  fled  with  his  patrons.  Then  the  Granadinos,  who  care  for  none  of  these 
things,  sold  the  sheets  for  waste  paper.  Viaje  de  Espana,  Nicolas  de  la  Cruz, 
Cadiz,  1812,  vol.  12,  treats  of  Granada ;  for  a  Geological  sketch  of  Gi-anada  and 
Murcia,  Chas.  Silvertop,  8vo.  Lond.  1836.  El  Lihro  del  Viajero  en  G,,  Miguel 
Lafuente  Alcantara,  8vo.  Gran.  1843;  and  hj  the  same  author,  Historia  de  G., 
4to.  4  vols.  Gran.  1843,  reprinted  at  Paris  m  1851.  Manual  del  Artista,  Jose 
Gimenez  Serrano,  a  poor  duo.  Gran.  1845. 

There  are  several  plans  of  the  town,  besides  that  of  Felix  Prieto.  First, 
that  drawn  by  Ambrosio  de  Vico,  and  engraved  about  1624  by  Fran- 
cisco Heylan;  next,  that  published  in  1796  by  Francisco  Dalmau,  which  is 
excellent.  Of  engraved  works  of  the  Alhambra,  the  first  was  * Antigiiedades 
Arabes^  4to.  s.  d.  about  1 785 ;  a  second  and  folio  edition  was  published  in  1804. 
The  Arabic  inscriptions  were  poorly  translated  by  Pablo  Lozano.  This  work  wap 
badly  copied  by  James  Cavannah  Murphy — *  Arabian  Antiquities,  London,  1816 
— a  mere  book-making  job,  and  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  Murphy  was  even  ever 
on  the  spot.  This  is  the  book  puffed  with  outrageous  eulogiums  by  Dr.  Dibdin 
in  his  *  Library  Companion,*  but  let  no  man  about  to  form  a  *  Spanish*  library 
ever  consult  that  doctor.  The  *  Souvenirs  der  Ganade*  *  Essai,*  and  other  works, 
par  M.  Girault  de  Prangey,  Paris,  1837;  the  *  Erinnerungen*  of  Wilhelm  von 
Gail,  Munich  ;  and  even  the  splendid  work  of  F.  M.  Hessemer,  Berlin,  1836, 
4to.,  fade  before  the  English  publication  by  Owen  Jones,  *  Plafis  of  the  Alhambra,* 
London,  1842.  The  scrupulous  architectural  and  artistical  accuracy  is  rivalled 
by  the  gorgieous  execution.  The  value  of  the  engravings  is  enhanced  by  a 
masterly  history  of  Granada,  and  by  really  accurate  translations  from  the  Arabic 
inscriptions  by  Gayangos.  The  substance  of  the  former  with  woodcuts,  and 
the  whole  of  the  latter,  have  been  thrown  by  Owen  Jones  into  his  Alhambra 
Handbook  for  the  Crystal  Palace.  The  minor  works,  albums,  lithographs, 
annuals,  and  so  forth,  scarcely  deserve  notice,  beyond  the  charming  poetical 
drawings  of  Roberts,  which  are  pirated  by  Frenchmen  in  their  *  Univcrs 
Pittoresque,*  and  by  M.  Maison  in  his  map,  without  whispering  whence  they 
stole  their  sweets. 


Granada. — Among  the  best  hotels 
are  La  Amistad,  No.  39,  Calle  de  San 
Anton,  the  host,  Don  Jose  Vasquez,  is 
an  excellent  Master  also  in  Spanish;  La 
Minerva,  or  Parador  de  las  DUigencias 
Generates,  No.  40,  Acera  del  Darro,  Car- 
rera  del  Genii,  is  very  fair.  The  charges 
are  from  24  to  34  reals  per  day.  Miguel 
Ramirez  (Napoleon)  is  a  capital  guide 
for  a  ride  round  the  Alpvjarras.  Fonda 
del  Leon  de  Oro,  No.  246,  well  placed 
on  the  Campillo  or  Plaza  de  Bailen; 
kept  by  Vigarai.  La  Nueva — the  Fonda 
del  Comercio,  near  the  theatre  and  public 


walk,  is  now  merely  a  Neveria,  or  cafe 
and  ice-shop :  other  ^and  bad  posadas 
are  de  los  Tres  Reyes,  La  Cruz  de 
Malta,  San  Rafael,  La  del  Sol.  The 
Cctfe  Suisso  is  well  spoken  of.  There 
are  decent  Casas  de  Pupilos,  one  in  the 
Calle  de  las  Arandas,  at  the  comer 
opposite  the  Conde  de  Santa  Ana: 
another  En  los  Tintes,  and  near  the 
San  Espiritu,  comer  of  Calle  sin  Salida ; 
another  in  the  Plazuela  de  Trovar; 
another  in  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes. 
Good  lodgings  may  be  had  near  El 
Campillo,  and  Carrera  del  Darro.    T^ 


206 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA — GUIDES. 


Sect.  III. 


artist  should  live  up  in  the  Alhambra, 
where  he  will  always  find  a  lodging, 
and  there  is  a  tolerable  posnda,  kept  by 
Francisco  Torriesta;  indeed,  the  real 
thing,  independently  of  the  associa- 
tions, is  to  live  in  the  Alhambra. 
There  everything  is  Moorish,-  while 
below,  Granada  is  no  better  than  any 
other  Spanish  town.  Again,  the  Cuesta 
of  the  Alhambra  is  a  toil  to  ascend, 
and  those  who  do  so  come  up  heated 
and  tired.  **  Me  coje  siempre  cmsado" 
said  our  poor  old  Dr.  Tortosa,  al- 
though he  received  a  triple  fee.  To 
enjoy  the  Alhambra  one  must  saunter 
about  it  when  fresh  and  "  in  the  vein,** 
and  especially  by  moonlight.  (See  p. 
312.) 

Granada,  being  much  visited  bv 
foreigners,  has  its  local  guides  which 
are  hardly  things  of  incurious  Spain. 
Since  Mateo  Ximenez,  the  immortalised 
by  Washington  Irving,  has  come  to 
grief,  a  legion  of  i^orant  touters  has 
sprung  up,  who  mislead  and  plunder 
strangers.  Those  who  do  not  wish  to 
be  led  into  ditches,  should  make  a 
point  of  securing  Emmanuel  Bensaken, 
who  is  to  be  heard  of  at  the  Minerva. 
He  speaks  English  and  man^  languages, 
and  knows  the  south  of  Spam  perfectly ; 
sometimes  he  is  called  El  Moro,  At 
all  events,  a  Moor  was  a  better  lionizer 
of  the  Alhambra  than  Monsieur  LouiSj 
a  Bnonapartist  deserter,  who,  like  a  true 
Frenchman,  could  not  speak  Spanish 
or  comprehend  Spaniards.  Eiigenio 
Bensaken,  junior,  his  son,  can  also  be 
most  highly  recommended  as  a  travel- 
ling servant.  The  best  guide  up  the 
Sierra  Nevada  is  Jose  VilYegas,  servant 
to  Juan  Baltazapf  who  lets  horses.  He 
knows  every  goat  track  in  the  hills. 

Granada  is  the  capital  of  its  pro- 
vince ;  pop.,  about  60,000,  having  been 
about  400,000  under  the  Moors.  It  is  the 
see  of  an  archbishop,  whose  suffragans 
are  Guadix,  and  Baza,  and  Almcria, 
the  residence  of  a  Captain-General, 
and  of  the  civil  and  military  provin- 
cial authorities.  It  long  was  the  seat 
of  the  southern  Chancilleria,  or  Su- 
preme Court  of  Appeal,  but  a  new 
Audiencia  was  formed  at  Albacete,  in 
1835,  to  the  injury  of  Granada,  by  re- 
ding lawyers  and  clients.    It  has  a 


I  cathedral,  23  parishes,  a  university, 
Liceo,  Casino,  public  library,  Flaza  de 
Torosj  and  Museo.  The  natives  thus 
parody  the  proud  boast  of  hated  Se- 
ville, for  the  two  cities  abhor  each 
other  as  in  the  time  of  the  Moors : — 

"  Quien  no  ha  visto  d  Granaa 
A'o  ha  visto  d  nda." 

And  certainly  art  and  nature  have 
combined  to  render  Granada,  with  its 
alps,  plain,  and  Alhambra,  one  of 
those  few  places  which  realize  all  pre- 
vious favourable  conceptions.  The 
town  is  built  on  the  spurs  of  the 
mountains  which  rise  to  the  S.E.  to 
their  ^atest  altitude.  Like  Broussa, 
in  Asia  Minor,  it  has  its  Olympus, 
valley,  and  fortress  palace.  The  city 
overlooks  the  Vega,  and  is  about  2445 
ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea :  this  alti- 
tude, coupled  with  the  snowy  back- 
ground, renders  it  a  most  delicious 
summer  residence ;  while  this  bosom  of 
snow  furnishes  a  continual  supply  of 
water  for  irrigation;  accordingly  the 
Vega  supplies  every  vegetable  produc- 
tion, and  is  "  a  spot,"  said  the  Arabians, 
"  superior  in  extent  and  fertility  to  the 
valley  of  Damascus :"  they  compared 
the  white  villas  and  farmhouses  which 
sparkle  amid  the  eternal  verdure  to 
"  Oriental  pearls  set  in  a  cup  of  eme- 
ralds." These  dwellings  are  still  called 
"  Carmenes,"  from  -ffarm,  Arabice  a  vine- 
yard. Granada  is  built  on,  and  at  the 
base  of,  several  hills:  the  portion  to 
the  rt.,  which  hangs  over  the  Xenil,  is 
called  Antequeruela,  the  "  Little  Ante- 
quera,*'  to  which  the  natives  of  that 
town  fied  after  its  capture,  in  1410.  The 
Alhambra  is  built  on  a  crowning 
height,  that  hangs  over  the  Darro, 
which  separates  the  Antequeruela  from 
the  Albaicin  —  i?a&arf-hu-l-Bayisin, 
"  the  suburb  of  those  from  Baeza,"  to 
whom  it  was  assigned  in  1227,  when 
that  city  was  conquered  by  the  Chris- 
tians :  from  this  Arabic  Babad  is  de- 
rived the  Spanish  word  "  Arrabal," 
suburb.  The  best  portion  of  the  town 
lies  at  the  base,  while  none  but  the 
poor  live  above.  The  Granadinos 
despise  the  Alhambra,  as  a  casa  de 
ratones,  or  rat's  hole,  which  indeed 
they  have  made  it. 


Bonda  ^  Granada,      route  25. — the  alhambra. 


297 


The  society  of  Granada  is  dull.  To 
those  who  arrive  from  Seville,  the  in- 
habitants do  not  look  either  so  well 
dressed,  so  gay,  or  intelligent.  There 
are  fewer  Majos,  and  the  women  are 
inferior  walkers  and  talkers;  they  want 
the  real  meneo  y  gracia,  although  they 
contend  that  "  Las  Granadinas  son  muy 
finis.**  The  houses  again  are  smaller 
and  less  Oriental,  for  Granada  was 
built  by  impoverished  defeated  refu- 
gees, not  like  Seville,  by  the  Moor  in 
all  his  palmy  pride :  they  have  fewer 
marble-pillared  patios ;  the  Zaguan  is 
smaller,  and  is  paved  with  black  and 
white  stones;  the  filigree  Cancel  is 
changed  into  a  heavy  oak  door.  Square 
pilasters  replace  in  shops  and  streets 
the  pillared  shafts  of  Seville,  and  the 
windows  have  more  balconies  and 
fewer  Rejas. 

Granada  now  stagnates  in  book- 
less ignorance ;  it  has  neither  letters, 
arts,  nor  arms,  that  of  cock-fighting 
excepted.  Education  is  at  the  lowest 
ebb.  The  petty  commerce  is  passive: 
there  is  a  want  of  roads,  whether 
leading  to  the  seaboard  or  inland,  by 
which  it  is  isolated  and  kept  poor ;  in 
short ,  like  Cordova,  from  being  an 
Athens  under  the  Moors,  it  has  become 
a  Bceotia  under  the  Spaniards  of  to- 
day; for  in  better  times  it  was  the 
birthplace  of  Fray  Luis  de  Granada, 
one  of  the  most  eloquent  and  pathetic 
writers  of  Spain  (consult  his  Vida  y 
Virtudesy  by  Luis  Mufioz,  duo..  Mad., 
1711);  of  Lope  de  Eueda,  the  pre- 
cursor of  Lope  de  Vega  and  the  dra- 
matists; of  the  historians,  Luis  de 
Marmol  and  Hurtado  Mendoza ;  of  the 
sculptors,  Juan  Martinez  Montaaes 
and  Alonso  Cano. 

The  "  canting"  arms  of  Granada 
are  a  pomegranate,  "  Granada,"  stalked 
and  proper :  some,  catching  at  sound, 
not  sense,  have  derived  Granada  from 
this  "Oranatum"  but  the  Moorish  name 
was  Elamattah,  and  they  never  would 
have  taken  a  Latin  word  had  they 
wished  to  call  the  town  "  Pomegra- 
nate," because  the  hills  are  divided 
somewhat  like  that  fruit  They  would 
have  preferred  their  own  word  Rom- 
man,  and  to  this  day  a  salad  made  of 
pomegranates    is    called    **  Ensalada 


Eomana"  It  would  be  not  less  absurd 
to  interpret  this  as  JRoman  than  to  con^ 
nect  Karnattah  with  a  pomegranate. 

As  the  Alhambrais  to  our  countrymen 
the  emphatic  attraction  of  Granada,  and 
indeed  we  may  say  of  Spain,  its  rise 
and  decline  may  be  briefly  stated. 

The  Alhambra,  the  Acropolis,  the 
Windsor  Castle  of  Granada,  is  indeed 
a  pearl  of  great  price  in  the  estimation 
of  all  travellers  from  foreign  parts,  for 
few  Granadinos  ever  go  there,  or  under*- 
stand  the  alUabsorbing  interest,  the 
concentrated  devotion,  which  it  excites 
in  the  stranger.  Familiarity  has  bred 
in  them  the  contempt  with  which  the 
Bedonin  regards  the  ruins  of  Palmyra, 
insensible  alike  to  present  beauty  as  to 
past  poetry  and  romance;  and  most 
Spaniards,  although  not  wearing  tur- 
bans, have  the  true  Oriental  lack  of  the 
organs  of  veneration,  and  think  of  no- 
thing beyond  the  present  tense  and  the 
first  person—  self.  The  leaven,  again,  of 
hatred  against  their  old  rival  the  Moor 
and  his  works  is  not  extinct,  and  afPront- 
ed  by  this  Moorish  worship,  they  resent 
the  preference  shown  by  strangers  to 
those  relics  which  they  have.  Gothlike, 
disfigured,  as  implying  Spanish  inferio- 
rity. The  admiration  of  European  pil- 
^grims  have  recently  shamed  the  autho- 
rities into  a  somewhat  more  conserva- 
tive feeling  towards  the  Alhambra;  but 
their  good  intentions  are  questionable, 
as  they  repair  and  beautify  on  church- 
warden principles,  and  "restore"  the 
ruins,  as  they  ao  the  old  masters  in  the 
Madrid  Museo,  effacing  the  lines  where 
beauty  lingers.  Even  in  this  their  tardy 
appreciation  they  look  to  the  main 
chance:  thus  Mellado,  in  his  Guide, 
1843,  p.  229,  after  lamenting  that  there 
should  be  no  Noticia  of  the  Alhambra, 
of  which  he  speaks  coldly,  suggests, 
*'as  so  many  English  visit  it,  that  a  de- 
scriptive work  would  be  a  segura  espe- 
culacion,*'  —  a,  safe  speculation.  Thus 
the  poetry  of  the  Moor  is  coined  into 
the  Spanish  prose  of  profitable  pesetas. 

It  was  our  fate  during  two  summers, 
more  than  20  years  ago,  to  reside  in 
the  Alhambra  itself,  and  hold  constant 
converse  with  many  aged  chroniclers, 
Ilijos  de  la  Alhambra^  who  had  seen 
many  things  with  their  own  eyes,  and 

o  3 


293 


EOUTE  26. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  iir. 


heard  the  past  from  their  parents. 
These  living  organs  of  tradition  are 
nosY  scattered  or  dead,  and  memory 
once  interrupted  can  never  be  recalled. 

The  building  was  commenced  by 
Ibnn-1-ahmar,  m  1 248  ;  it  was  con- 
tinued by  his  son  Abu'-abdillah,  and 
finished  by  his  grandson  Mohammed 
III.,  about  1314.  The  founder,  like 
Edward  III.  at  Windsor,  has  eveiy- 
where  introduced  his  motto,  his  **  Honi 
soit  qui  mal  y  pense."  The  words  Wa 
la  ghdliha  ilia  Allah — and  "  there  is  no 
conqueror  but  Allah,"  are  to  be  seen  in 
every  portion  of  the  Turkish  and  Azu- 
lejo.  The  origin  is  this ;  when  he  re- 
turned from  the  surrender  of  Seville, 
his  subjects  saluted  him  as  galib — the 
conqueror,  and  he  replied— adopting 
the  Tahlilf  or  true  Mussulman  war- 
cry — "  There  is  no  conqueror  but  God." 
This  motto  also  appears  on  his  coat  of 
arms,  which  is  the  banner  of  Castile, 
granted  to  him  by  St.  Ferdinand,  and 
the  same  as  adopted  by  Don  Pedro  for 
the  badge  of  his  order  of  the  Vanday 
or  Bend.  This  bend,  once  blue,  was 
changed  into  "red"  to  compliment 
this  Moorish  William  Rufus  (Conde, 
hi.  38). 

The  great  decorator  was  Yusuf  I., 
who,  although  unsuccessful  in  ^ar  (see 
Balado,  p.  149),  was  eminent  in  the  arts 
of  peace :  so  vast  were  his  revenues, 
that  he  was  imagined  to  possess  the 
philosopher's  stone ;  but  his  secret  was 
quiet  and  industry,  "  et  magnum  vec- 
ti^l  parsimonia."  He  regilt  and  re- 
painted the  palace,  which  then  must 
have  been  a  thing  of  the  "  Tales  of  the 
Genii ;"  now  all  is  deserted  and  unfur- 
nished, and  the  mere  carcase.  The 
colours  are  obliterated  by  Spanish 
whitewash,  which  destroys  sharpness 
of  outline  and  fills  up  open  work,  and 
the  proportions  are  destroyed  by  centu- 
ries of  ill-usage  ;  yet  time  and  the  dry 
air  of  Spain  have  used  it  gently,  treat- 
ing it  like  a  beautiful  woman.  What 
must  it  once  have  been — cum  tales  sunt 
reliquiae  I  Peter  Martyr,  an  Italian  of 
taste,  thus  wrote  when  he  entered  it  in 
the  train  of  the  Gothic  conquerors : 
"  Alhambram,  pro  I  dii  immor  tales ! 
qualem  Regiam!  unicam  in  orbe  ter- 
m  crede ! " 


The  degradation  of  this  Palatial 
fortress,  this  acropolis,  this  Windsor 
castle  of  the  Moors,  dates  the  very  day 
of  the  Castilian  conquest,  when  the 
"Purifications"  of  Isabella's  monks, 
that  is,  the  whitewashings  and  re- 
movals of  Moslem  symbols,  com- 
menced ;  then  the  iron  forged  at  Gothic 
Toledo,  shattered  the  gossamer  fabric 
of  the  Moor.  What  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  began,  their  grandson  Charles 
V.  carried  out,  who  proceeded  to  re- 
move by  the  wholesale  "  the  ugly 
abominations  of  the  Moors."  He  mo- 
dernized and  rebuilt  portions,  put  up 
heavy  ceilings,  cut  out  over-wide  fire- 
places, took  down  the  Moorish  Tarkish, 
ran  up  partitions,  opened  and  blocked 
up  passages,  and  converted  the  dwelling 
of  an  Oriental  sybarite,  into  lodgings 
for  a  chilly  Flemish  gentleman.  His 
son  and  the  Philips  simply  neglected 
the  Alhambra,  which  in  the  absence  of 
damp  would  have  stood  for  ages,  for 
here  scarcely  the  sepulchre  is  shrouded 
by  a  lichen.  The  palace  shared  in  the 
decline  of  the  monarchy,  and  was  made 
in  1664  an  extra-judicial  asylum  for 
debtors;  thus  poverty  crept  into  the 
"rules"  of  the  king's  house.  It  was 
next  given  up  to  invalid  soldiers,  pri- 
soners, and  convicts,  and,  in  a  word, 
made  a  den  of  thieves. 

The  Alhambra,  for  the  first  2  centu- 
ries after  the  conquest,  scarcely  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  other  European 
nations;  indeed  to  travel,  except  on 
compulsion,  was  not  then  the  fashion. 
The  names  of  visitors  begin  to  be  in- 
scribed on  the  walls  about  1670.  After 
nearly  a  century  more  of  neglect,  the 
Alhambra  was  put  into  a  sort  of  repair 
by  Richard  Wall,  the  Irish  ex-minister 
of  Charles  III.  Unfortunately  it  was 
selected  in  1792,  at  that  king's  death, 
as  the  prison  of  Aranda,  who  was  dis- 
placed from  the  ministry  to  make  way 
for  the  minion  Godoy,  when  the  apart- 
ments of  Charles  V.  were  whitewashed, 
and  all  the  rich  Italian  arabesques 
obliterated.  The  governor  at  that  time, 
one  Savera,  resided  in  the  suite  of 
rooms  over  the  mosque^  from  which 
every  vestige  of  Moorish  taste  was 
swept  away.  He  placed  his  kitchen 
and  filthiest  appurtenances  in  a  Moor- 


Ronda  ^  Granada,       route  25. — the  alhambra. 


299 


ish  mirador,  where  marble  and  gilding 
yet  linger  amid  abominations  inde- 
scribable. Charles  IV.  next  gave  this 
petty  appointment  to  a  Catalan  named 
Don  Luis  Bucarelli,  who  had  been 
wounded  in  a  battle  with  the  French, 
and  was  half-witted  and  bedridden. 
He  had  5  daughters,  who  married 
paupers  of  other  parts  of  the  Alhambra, 
and  were  all  quartered  in  it ;  they  laid 
their  hands  on  everything  that  could 
be  moved  or  sold.  In  vain  were  repre- 
sentations made  by  foreigners  to  the 
wittol  Charles  IV.  ;  he  desired  "  that 
the  old  man  should  not  be  worried  ;'* 
so  plunder  thus  authorized  did  its 
worst  during  the  remainder  of  Buca- 
relli's  life.  He  was  succeeded  by  Don 
Lorenzo  Velasco  y  Navara,  who,  by 
endeavouring  to  correct  some  abuses, 
became  unpopular  with  the  contador  or 
the  treasurer ,who,  on  Godoy*s  downfall, 
managed  to  effect  his  dismissal  on  the 
plea  of  his  being  a  proteg^  of  the  ex- 
minister.  The  hereditary  office  of 
contador  had  been  purchased  by  the 
Prado  family  of  Philip  V.,  and  was 
held  by  one  Don  Jose  Prado,  40  years, 
he  being  the  worst  holder  ever  known 
except  his  son  Antonio.  Albeit  mal- 
practices and  petty  larcenies  are  venial 
sins  in  most  Spanish  "unjust  stewards," 
yet  such  were  the  mortal  offences  of  the 
son,  that  he  was  actually  turned  out  of 
the  office.  This  family  of  caterpillars 
had  pretty  well  eaten  up  the  patrimony 
of  the  Alhambra,  while  the  remaining 
sums  destined  for  repairs,  &c.,  were 
divided,  as  usual,  by  the  other  autho- 
rities. About  1808  Don  Ignacio  Mon- 
tilla  was  appointed  governor.  His 
wife  kept  her  donkey  in  the  beautiful 
chapel,  and  made  the  Patio  de  la  Mezr 
quita  a  pen  for  her  sheep.  But  Ocana 
soon  brought  in  the  wolf,  and  Sebastiani 
arrived  in  January,  1810.  Montilla, 
for  the  sole  crime  of  not  presenting 
himself  to  this  potentate,  was  im- 
prisoned in  the  Comares  tower,  and 
only  saved  from  instant  execution  by 
some  Poles  who  were  quartered  in  the 
Alhambra.  His  friends  then  got  "  La 
Panera"  at  whose  house  Sebastiani  was 
lodging,  to  intercede.  The  lady  was 
rich  and  beautiful,  so  Mammon  allied 
to  Venus  subdued  the  Generars  heart. 


and  in  this  rare  instance  he  departed 
from  "  salutary  rigour,*'  and  was  guilty 
of  clemency.  To  the  Alhambra  no 
mercy  was  shown.  He  first  proceeded 
to  convert  it  into  a  plax:e  d^armes, 
for  which  purpose  countless  houses 
were  demolished ;  Moorish  mosque 
and  Christian  churches  alike  turned 
into  magazines,  and  convents  into 
barracks;  the  Moorish  pavement  of 
blue  and  white  in  the  Court  of 
Lions  was  torn  up  to  make  a  garden 
there,  like  that  of  a  badaud  guinguette 
at  Paris.  The  shrubs  blocked  up  size 
and  space,  and  concealed  beauties  of 
every  kind,  while  their  roots  injured 
the  intricate  vein-work  of  pipes  by 
which  the  fountains  played,  and  their 
watering  destroyed  the  rooms  below. 
Not  contented  with  this,  on  evacuating 
the  Alhambra,  Sept.  17,  1812,  the 
French  mined  the  towers  and  blew  up 
8  in  number,  many  of  which  were 
models  of  Moorish  art ;  they  intended 
to  have  destroyed  them  all  at  one  fell 
swoop  as  their  parting  legacy,  but  their 
agent,  Don  Antonio  Parses,  an  Afranr 
cesado,  took  fright,  and  ran  away  after 
his  protectors.  They  retreated  at  9  in 
the  morning,  and  Parses  had,  like  an 
unpunctual  Spaniard,  only  commenced 
the  blowing  up  at  1 1  ;  the  fusees  were 
put  out  hj  an  invalid  soldier  named 
Jose  Garcia.  Let  these  deeds  be  held 
in  everlasting  remembrance. 

Montilla  now  returned ;  but  no  sooner 
had  Ferdinand  VII.  reached  Madrid 
than  he  left  his  post,like  most  Spaniards, 
to  job  for  a  better  place.  Then  one  Villa 
Ecusa  was  directed  to  collect  all  that  the 
French  had  not  taken  away,  for  they 
had  made  the  Alhambra  their  receiv- 
ing^house.  He  was  assisted  in  his 
commission  by  Don  Jose  Prado,  the 
contador,  and  Antonio  Maria  Prieto  j 
Venencio,  .the  **  escribano :**  verbum 
sat.  They  gutted  the  Alhambra,  they 
tore  off  door-locks  and  bolts,  took  out 
even  panesof  glass,  and  sold  everything 
for  themselves,  and  then,  like  good 
patriots,  reported  that  the  invaders  had 
left  nothing.  The  Court  of  Lions  was 
now  impassable  from  ruin  ;  some  of  the 
animals  were  broken  and  thrown  on 
the  ground.  Then  stepped  in  the 
second  founder  of  the  Alhambra — d'^*^ 


300 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


a  commissioner  of  taste — "rien,  pas  I 
meme  acad^micien" — but  an  humble 
female  peasant,  Francisca  de  Molina, 
-whom  Montilla  had  appointed  portress. 
She  is  the  Do&a  or  Tia  Antonia  of 
Washington  Irving,  and,  with  her 
niece  Dolores  aiid  Mateo  Ximenez,  will 
live  immortalized  by  his  ingenious  pen. 
As  we  lived  with  these  ladies  2  sum- 
mers we  can  vouch  historically  that 
the  Tia  Frasquita  was  cross  and 
crabbed,  Dolores  ill-favoured  and 
mercenary,  and  Mateo  a  chattering 
blockhead ;  out  of  such  worthies  genius 
has  made  heroes  and  heroines,  for  the 
power  of  romance  can  gild  the  basest 
metals.  Montilla  had  granted  to  the 
Tia  the  use  of  the  Aaarves  and  the 
^rden,  and  she  made  money  by  show- 
ing the  place  and  dressing  picnic  din- 
ners, until  some  ultra-bacchic  festi- 
vities caused  that  permission  to  be 
withdrawn. 

No  sooner  were  the  French  troops 
ejected  from  the  Alhambra,  by  the  re- 
coil of  the  Duke's  victory  at  Sala- 
manca, than  this  Tia  went  to  work  to 
repair  their  ravages.  Labor  ipse  volup- 
tas.  She  set  the  Lions  on  their  legs,  and 
cleared  away  the  rubbish.  At  length 
the  indignant  remarks  of  foreign  tra- 
vellers shamed  the  authorities,  who 
commenced  some  trifling  restorations : 
but  in  1821  an  earthquake  shattered 
the  ancient  pile,  and  the  times  were 
out  of  joint,  and  the  Constitucion  in 
force  ;  then  Montilla,  being  a  royalist, 
and  a  gentleman  bv  birth,  was  perse- 
cuted by  the  patriots,  by  whom  one 
Juan  Camerara  was  named  governor, 
and  as  the  city  Junta  seized  lor  them- 
selves the  scanty  funds  of  the  real 
patrimonio,  the  Alhambra  again  has- 
tened to  decay.  In  1823,  when  Fer- 
dinand VII.  was  delivered,  Montilla 
returned ;  but  he  resigned  in  1827,  and 
was  succeeded  by  a  Col.  Francisco  la 
Sema,  whose  great  object  was  to  find 
work  for  galley-slaves  :  in  an  evil  hour 
he  selected  the  Alhambra  for  their  oc- 
cupation. His  first  step  was  to  try  to 
expel  the  Tia  Frasquita,  who,  having 
lived  60  years  in  the  palace,  was  not 
only  Lioniser,  but  its  Lioness,  Queen, 
and  Cook,  being  nick-named  La  Hei/na 
'^    uina.      La  Serna  next  converted  a 


large  portion  of  the  Alhambra  into 
stores  for  the  salt-fish  of  his  scoundrel 
charge ;  at  this  vandal  work  we  be- 
held his  worthy  galeriens  working  in 
chains  for  weeks,  in  1831,  tearing  down 
and  casting  over  the  battlements  the 
Moorish  lienzos  and  azulejos,  quseque 
ipse  miserrima  vidi.  In  March  of 
that  fatal  year,  as  if  destruction  were 
its  rule,  a  large  portion  of  the  cur- 
tain or  outer  wall,  hanging  over  the 
Darro,  fell  in,  which  has  since  been 
rebuilt.  In  that  summer,  however, 
Mr.  Addington,  the  British  ambassador, 
coming  down  from  Madrid  to  visit  our 
humble  selves  then  living  in  the  Al- 
hambra, induced  the  authorities  to 
remove  a  powder-magazine,  which,  as 
it  had  no  conductor,  not  even  a  holy- 
week  palm-branch,  was  liable,  during 
any  lightning  storm,  to  vie  with  Van- 
dals, foreign  and  domestic.  Thus,  as 
an  accident,  the  moving  power  of  things 
of  Spain,  prevented  the  complete  de- 
struction of  the  Alhambra  towers  by 
the  French,  the  accidental  visit  of  an 
Englishman  may  have  preserved  the 
remains  of  what  Gaul  and  chance  had 
spared. 

When  Ferdinand  VII.  died,  and  civil 
wars  broke  out,  the  Alhambra,  in  com- 
mon with  the  Escorial  Aranjuez,  and 
everything  royal,  was  left  to  go  to  ruin. 
In  1837  the  governor  cut  up  the  Moor- 
ish doors  of  the  Sala  de  los  Abencerrages, 
and  permitted  another  man  of  taste  to 
"  repair  and  beautify"  la  Cam  Sanchez. 
This  once,  when  inhabited  by  honest 
Sanchez,  of  whom  Panza  was  the  type, 
was  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and 
most  Moorish  of  dwellings.  During  the 
panic  occasioned  by  the  incursion  of 
the  Carlists  under  Gomez,  a  good  deal 
more  mischief  was  done  in  what  was 
called  putting  the  place  in  a  state  of 
defence :  at  length,  in  1842,  Arguelles, 
tutor  to  the  Queen,  destined  a  small 
sum  from  the  privy  purse  for  absolute 
repairs,  which  have  been  tolerably 
done,  and  are  continued  slowly  at 
present. 

The  first  object  of  every  English 
traveller  is  the  Alhambra;  ascend 
therefore  the  Calle  de  los  Gomeles,  and, 
passing  under  the  gate  d-e  his  Granadas, 
enter  the  magical  jurisdiction  of  this 


Ronda  ^  Granada,      route  25. — the  alhambra. 


801 


fairy  palace.  3  paths  diverge;  that 
to  the  rt.  leads  to  the  Torres  BermejaSy 
the  "  red  towers,*'  a  sort  of  outwork, 
which  deserves  a  subsequent  visit. 
This,  the  most  ancient  portion  of  Gra- 
nada, existed  when  Illiberis  was  the 
chief  town,  and  is  mentioned  as  "  Kal- 
'at  Al-hamra,"  "  the  red  castle,**  by  an 
Arabian  poet,  so  early  as  a.d.  864.  It 
was  afterwards  called  Medinah  Al- 
hamra,  "  the  red  city  '*  (Casiri,  *  Bib. 
Es.'  ii.  249).  Pedro  de  Alcala,  in  his 
Arabo-Hispano  dictionary  of  the  time 
of  the  conquest,  translates  Bermeja  by 
Amhar  {hamra  in  the  feminine),  a 
name  well  applicable  to  the  red  ferru- 
ginous concrete  tapia  of  which  it  is 
built.  It  may  have  existed  even  be- 
fore the  Romans ;  indeed,  some  anti- 
quarians, who  can  see  far  into  a  mile- 
stone, pretend  to  recognize  Phcenician 
work.  Habus  Ibn  Makesen,  when  he 
removed  from  Illiberis  in  1019,  erected 
above  this  outwork  the  Kassabah  Al- 
hamra,  "  the  enclosure  of  the  red,*'  the 
present  Alcazaba.  This  Ibnu-1-ahmar 
selected  for  his  residence,  and  built 
the  Kasru-1-hamra,  the  "  Alcazar,  or 
palace,  of  or  in  the  red  enclosure.*'  The 
long  lines  of  walls  and  towers  crown 
the  hill,  and  follow  the  curves  and 
dips  of  the  ground,  just  as  an  artist 
would  have  placed  them :  there  is  no 
attempt  at  symmetry  or  anything 
straight;  hence,  as  at  Jaen,  Xativa, 
&c.,  the  ele^nce  and  picturesqueness 
of  thesd  Oriental  fortifications ;  they 
are  the  antitheses  of  the  common- 
place line  and  rule  places  of  Vauban, 
which  are  as  worthless  to  the  artist  as 
admirable  to  the  engineer. 

The  Moorish  towers  rise  like  reddish 
cork  models  out  of  a  girdle  of  trees, 
which  contrasts  with  the  stony  sierras 
above.  The  centre  walk  leads  to  the  pub- 
lic gardens,  that  to  the  1.  to  the  Alham- 
bra ;  the  wooded  slopes  are  kept  ^een 
by  watercourses,  and  tenanted  by  night- 
ingales ;  although  everything  looks  the 
work  of  nature,  it  is  the  creation  of 
man,  as  the  Moor  changed  the  barren 
rock  into  an  Eden;  had  the  French 
intentions  succeeded,  all  would  have 
relapsed  into  barrenness,  from  their 
destruction  of  the  supply  of  water :  the 
elm-trees    came  from    England,   and 


here  being  rare,  are  as  much  admired 
as  palms  would  be  with  us ;  on  reaching 
the  height  is  a  semi-circular  barbican, 
and  below  it  a  fountain,  wrought  in 
the  coarse  stone  of  Elvira,  in  the  Ber- 
ruguete  style.  It  was  erected  by  the 
Alcaide  Mendoza,  whose  arms,  with 
those  of  Charles  V.,  are  sculptured  on 
it.  The  river-gods  represent  the  Genii, 
Darro,  &c. :  this  monument  has  re- 
cently been  barbarously  repaired  and 
"  restored." 

Granada  is  a  city  of  fountains,  which, 
a  luxury  with  us,  is  a  necessity  here. 
The  Darro  and  Xenil  are  drawn  off  in 
canals  from  high  up  near  their  sources, 
and  thus  the  waters  retain  the  original 
elevation  above  the  town ;  columns  are 
accordingly  thrown  up  from  fountains 
in  great  body  and  height. 

A  sharp  turn  conducts  to  the  grand 
entrance.  La  Torre  de  Jnsticia,  the 
**  Porch,**  the  "  gate  of  judgment,**  the 
"  Sublime  Porte,"  at  which  the  king  or 
his  kaid  dispensed  judgment,  as  in  the 
East  (Deut.  xvi.  18;  1  Kings  viii.  7), 
after  an  ancient  fashion,  which  at  least 
was  more  rapid  and  cheap,  and  possibly 
quite  as  equitable,  as  any  modern  Couii: 
of  Chancery,  either  below  the  hill  or 
elsewhere.  This  gate  was  erected  in 
1308  by  Yusuf  I.,  Abti-1-hajdj,  a  great 
decorator  of  the  Alhambra.  The 
Moors  called  it  B&bu-sh-shari*ah,  the 
"  gate  of  the  law."  The  inscription 
over  the  inner  doorway  records  its 
elevation  and  the  name  of  the  founder. 
It  ends,  **  May  the  Almighty  make 
this  [gate]  a  protecting  bulwark,  and 
write  down  its  [erection]  among  the 
imperishable  actions  of  the  just."  The 
Moorish  diapery  has  been  broken,  to 
make  a  niche  for  a  poor  wooden  image 
of  the  Virgin. 

Over  the  outer  horse-shoe  arch  is 
seen  an  open  hand,  which  some  con- 
sider an  emblem  of  hospitality  and 
generosity,  the  redeeming  qualities  of 
the  Oriental.  Others  think  it  a  type 
of  the  5  principal  commandments  of 
the  creed  of  Islam — "  To  keep  the  fast 
of  Ramadan,  pilgrimage  to  Mecca, 
alms^ving,  ablution,  and  war  against 
the  infidel."  Others  refer  it  to  the 
Hebrew  jadh^  the  hand  of  God,  the 
Oriental  symbol  of  power  and  provj- 


302 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  in. 


dence.  But  the  true  meaning  of  it  is 
a  talisman  over  the  portal  against  the 
much  dreaded  "  Evil  Eye,"  at  which 
Orientals  and  Spaniards  have  always 
and  do  still  tremble.  The  Morisco 
women  wore  small  hands  of  gold  and 
silver  round  their  necks,  like  the  Nea- 
politans, and  a  substitute  for  the  classi- 
cal phallic  symbol  of  defiance.  Charles 
v.,  by  a  Pragmatica  in  1 525,  forbad 
this  usage.  In  the  Sala  de  los  Emba- 
jadores  is  an  inscription  to  the  same 
purport :  "  The  best  praise  be  given  to 
God !  I  will  remove  all  the  effects  of 
an  evil  eye  upon  our  jnaster  Tusuf,**  &c. 

Over  the  inner  arch  is  a  sculptured 
hey,  in  which  some  see  the  Oriental 
symbol  of  power  (Isa.  xxii.  22),  and 
others  the  "  key  of  Ehivid  **  (Rev.  iii. 
7).  Others,  however,  hold  that  it  is 
allusive  to  the  "  power  of  the  keys,'* 
by  which  the  true  prophet  opened  the 
gates  of  heaven  and  hell.  Then  it  is 
said  to  be  simply  a  badge  of  honour, 
like  the  keys  worn  by  gentlemen  of  bed- 
chambers and  titled  menials ;  the  key, 
however,  was  a  symbolic  sign  among 
the  Sufis,  denoting  knowledge — "  the 
key  by  which  God  opens  the  heart  of 
believers."  It  occurs  over  many  An- 
dalucian  castles,  especially  those  built 
after  the  arrival  of  the  Almohades, 
a  word  corrupted  from  Al  Muicdhedum, 
or  Unitarians,  a  domineering  religious 
sect,  who  bore  this  particular  badge  on 
their  banners.  There  is  an  idle  tale, 
how  the  Moors  boasted  that  this  gate 
never  would  be  opened  to  the  Christians 
until  the  hand  took  the  key. 

The  entrance  is  carried  through  a 
double  gate  :  "  David  sat  between  the 
two  gates  **  (2  Sam.  xviii.  24).  Here 
is  a  guard-room  ;  and  the  intricate  tor- 
tuous passages  are  contrived  so  as  to 
obstruct  an  entering  enemy.  Now,  in- 
stead of  the  well-appointed  Mameluke 
and  glittering  Moor,  or  iron-clad  cham- 
pion of  Tendilla,  a  few  gaunt,  bandit- 
looking  invalids  are  huddled  together. 

Passing  onwards,  near  a  paltry  altar- 
screen,  is  a  Gothic  inscription,  coeval 
with  the  conquest,  recording  that 
event,  and  the  appointment  of  Inigo 
Lopez  de  Mendoza  as  alcaide.  The 
jurisdiction  of  the  Alhambra  is  sepa- 
*^te  from   that  of  Granada,  and  has 


its  own  governor.  The  office  was  one 
of  high  honour,  but  is  now  altogether 
second  rate.  The  Virgin  and  Child, 
in  the  Betablo,  was  painted  by  Saint 
Luke,  to  which,  if  any  doubted,  Mateo 
Ximenez  would  swear.  In  oiir  time  no 
donkeys  were  allowed  to  go  through  this 
passage,  because  some  had  grossly  mis- 
behaved themselves  before  the  sacred 
painting.  Henc«  a  narrow  wall-en- 
closed lane  leads  to  the  open  place, 
Flaza  de  los  Algibes,  under  which  are 
the  Moorish  "  cisterns,"  which  ai-e 
filled  by  the  Darro  ;  they  are  cleaned 
in  January,  and  then  can  be  visited. 
In  summer  an  awning  is  erected  over 
a  well,  whence  a  supply  of  cool  water 
is  sold  to  those  who  come  up  from 
Granada  with  donkeys.  This  Plaza 
divides  the  palace  from  the  Alcazaba- 
Kassdbahf  the  citadel.  The  latter  was 
formerly  entered  by  the  Torre  del  Ho^ 
menage,  of  "  Homage,'*  which  rises  at 
the  end  of  the  Pelota,  or  fives-court, 
whose  wall  much  disfigures  the  Plaza. 
Observe  a  Roman  altar  from  lUiberis, 
imbedded  by  the  Moors  in  this  tower ; 
it  is  inscribed  by  the  grateful  Valerius 
to  his  "  most  indulgent  wife,*'  Cor- 
nelia. 

The  present  entrance  to  the  1.  was 
made  by  the  French.  The  Alcazaba  is 
now  used  as  a  prison  for  galley-slaves. 
The  once  most  curious  Moorish  ar- 
moury was  sold  by  its  governor,  Bu- 
carclli,  to  defray  the  cost  of  a  bull- 
fight. Ascend  the  Torre  de  la  Vela 
by  its  narrow  staircase.  Here,  as 
an  inscription  records,  the  Christian 
fiag  was  first  hoisted  by  the  Cardinal 
Mendoza  and  his  brother.  The  pano- 
rama is  glorious.  Below  lies  Granada, 
belted  with  plantations;  bevond  ex- 
pands the  Vega,  about  30  m.  in  length 
by  25  in  width,  70  in  circumference, 
and  guarded  like  an  Eden  by  a  wall  of 
mountains.  The  basin  was  once  a  lake, 
through  which  the  Xenil  burs^  a  way 
at  Loja.  The  Vega  is  studded  with 
villas  and  villages ;  every  field  has  its 
battle,  every  rivulet  its  ballad.  It  is  a 
scene  for  painters  to  sketch,  and  for 
poets  to  describe.  To  the  1.  rise  the 
snowy  Alpujarras,  then  the  distant 
Sierra  of  Alhama,  then  the  gorge  of 
Loja  in  the  distance,  then  the  round 


Ronda  ^  Granada,      route  25. — the  alhambra. 


303 


mountain  of  Parapanda,  which  is  the 
barometer  of  the  Vega,  as  Soracte  was 
to  Horace ;  for  when  its  head  is  bon- 
netted  with  mists,  so  surely  does  rain 
fall :  "  Cuando  Parapanda  se  pone  la 
montera,  Llueve  aunque  Dios  no  lo  qui- 
siera.*'  Nearer  Granada  is  the  Sierra 
de  Elvira,  the  site  of  old  lUiberis,  and 
below  the  dark  woods  of  the  Duke  of 
Wellington's  Soto  de  Roma.  To  the  rt. 
is  the  rocky  defile  of  Moclin,  and  the 
distant  chains  of  Jaen. 

The  Torre  de  la  Vela  is  so  called, 
because  on  this  "  toa^cA-tower "  hangs 
a  silver-tongued  bell,  which,  struck 
by  the  warder  at  certain  times,  is  the 
primitive  clock  that  ^ves  notice  to 
irrigators  below.  It  is  heard  on  a 
still  night  even  at  Loja,  30  m.  off, 
and  tender  and  touching  are  the  feel- 
ings which  the  silver  sound  awakens. 
This  bell  is  also  rung  every  January  2, 
the  anniversary  of  the  surrender  of 
Granada ;  on  that  day  the  Alhambra 
is  visited  by  crowds  oi  peasantry.  Few 
maidens  pass  by  without  striking  the 
bell,  which  ensures  a  husband,  and 
a  good  one  in  proportion  as  the  noise 
made,  which  it  need  not  be  said  is  con- 
tinuous and  considerable.  The  fete  is 
altogether  most  national  and  pictur- 
esque. Ascend  this  torre  just  before 
the  sun  sets,  to  see  what  is  his  blaze 
of  glory  in  these  southern  latitudes, 
when  he  incarnadines  heaven  and 
earth.  Then,  as  darkness  comes  on, 
the  long  lines  of  burning  weeds  and 
stubble  in  the  Vega  run  and  sparkle, 
crackling  like  the  battle  flashes  of  in- 
fantry ;  and,  in  the  old  warder's  re- 
mark, recall  the  last  campaigns  of  the 
Moor  and  Christian. 

The  under  line  of  bastions,  or 
adarves,  which  extend  to  the  Gate  of 
Justice,  were  laid  out  by  Charles  V. 
in  hanging  gardens  with  fountains, 
busts,  and  cinque-cento  sculpture.  The 
cypresses  seen  everywhere  from  afar, 
are  the  sole  constant  mourners  of  the 
Moor.  The  vines,  Parrales,  are  said  to 
be  of  the  time  of  Boabdil.  Their 
boa-constrictor-like  stems  wind  round 
the  square  pilasters.  The  outer  bas- 
tions, below  the  Albazaba,  were  de- 
stroyed by  the  French,  and  are  now  a 
weed- overgrown  ruin. 


In  a  small  court  of  the  Alcazaha  is 
a  marble  sarcophagus  or  tank,  with 
basso-relievos  oi  animals ;  among  them 
the  "  deer-slaying  lion,"  which  occurs 
so  often  in  Greek  art.  It  is  difficult 
to  say  whether  this  rude  sculpture  be 
antique  or  Moorish.  An  Arabic  in- 
scription is  carried  round  the  border, 
but  this  may  be  later  than  the  carving ; 
at  all  events,  stags  are  animals  con- 
nected by  Orientals  with  the  fountain, 
"  as  the  hart  panteth  for  the  water- 
brooks:**  and  the  Spanish  Moors, 
among  other  departures  from  strict 
Moslem  rules,  did  not  reject  either 
paintings  or  carvings  of  living  objects. 

Returning  to  the  Plaza  de  los  Al- 
gibes,  is  an  isolated  Moorish  tower 
La  Torre  del  Vino,  built  in  1345  by 
Yusuf  I.  Observe  the  elegant  Moor- 
ish arch,  and  the  Azulejos,  with 
which  Spanish  filth  and  neglect  con- 
trast. This  oratory  was  first  turned 
into  a  temple  of  Bacchus  when  the 
Alhambra  had  a  privilege  of  intro- 
ducing wine;  now  it  is  sacred  to 
Cloacina  Granadina.  The  large  palace 
opposite  was  begun  by  Charles  V., 
and,  symbol  of  himself  and  Spain, 
great  in  conception  and  impotent  in 
conclusion,  is  unfinished  and  unroofed ; 
yet  to  raise  this  edifice,  which  he  could 
not  complete,  Charles  destroyed  large 
portions  of  what  the  Moors  had  finished. 
This  palace  is,  however,  what  the 
Spaniards  admire,  and  to  this,  their 
building,  and  not  to  the  Alhambra,  that 
of  the  Moors,  do  they  direct  the  stran- 
ger's attention.  The  foundations  were 
laid  with  an  evil  omen,  and  in  the 
tears  of  a  pillaged  people.  The  funds 
were  extorted  from  the  Moriscos  to  buy 
off  the  dreaded  inquisition,  which, 
nevertheless,  was  let  loose  on  them. 

This  true  Chateau  en  Espagne  was 
begun  in  1526,  progressed  slowly  until 
1633,  and  was  then  abandoned.  It 
consists  of  a  square  of  220  ft.,  with 
3  elaborate  fa9ades,  and  was  one  of  the 
first  buildings  erected  in  Spain  in  the 
Grseco-Romano  Bramante  style.  The 
ornaments  of  the  grand  portal  and 
windows,  ascribed  to  Berrugu^te,  are 
by  Pedro  Machuca.  As  works  of  art, 
the  basso-relievos  are  much  overrated ; 
and  such  is  the  poverty  of  invention 


304 


ROUTE  26. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  m. 


that  the  same  compositions  are  simply 
reversed.  The  creamy  pudding-stone 
is  called  Almendradoj  and  comes  from 
the  quarries  oiEl  Turro.  The  interior 
is  cut  up  with  a  disproportioned  Doric 
and  Ionic  circular  patiOj  which,  how- 
ever well  contrived,  if  the  emperor 
meant  to  use  it  as  an  arena  for  bull- 
fights, must  destroy  the  proportions  of 
all  rooms  near  it.  The  court,  how- 
ever, has  generally  been  made  a  work- 
ing-place for  galley-slaves.  There  was 
a  notion  of  onering  this  huge  shell  to 
the  Duke  of  Wellington,  with  hopes 
that  he  would  finish  it  with  English 
gold ;  but  it  ended  in  nothing.  There 
was  some  talk  also  of  Queen  Christina 
taking  it  in  hand,  but  de  lo  dicho  al 
hecho,  va  gran  trecho. 

Before  entering  the  Moorish  palace 
look  around  at  this  Plaza,  where  every- 
thing is  typical  of  the  past  and  pre- 
sent. In  front  the  massy  towers  of 
the  Moors  frown  over  ruins  and  neglect. 
The  uneven  weed-encumbered  court  is 
disfigured  by  invalids,  beggars,  and  con- 
victs, emblems  of  Spanish  weakness 
and  poverty.  The  clanking  of  the  cri- 
minal's chain  has  replaced  the  cry  of 
the  Mueddin  and  the  Algara  of  the 
Moorish  knight.  The  unfinished  pa^ 
lace  of  the  Austrian  which  ipsults  the 
half-destroyed  abode  of  the  Western 
Kalif — is  a  thing  of  Spain,  of  to-day, 
where  old  systems  are  overturned  by 
rash  innovators,  who  have  been  unable 
to  raise  any  new  ones  in  their  place. 

The  present  entrance  to  la  real  casa 
Aj-abe  is  of  Spanish  construction,  and 
lies  in  an  obscure  comer  ;  for  Charles 
v.,  adding  insult  to  injuiy,  did  not 
even  set  his  new  building  in  a  parallel 
line  with  the  older  one,  and  destroyed 
altogether  the  previous  and  noble 
facade  which  opened  to  the  south. 
Before  entering  it  may  be  as  well  to 
say  a  word  on  the  erection  of  this 
edifice,  the  Arabic  inscriptions,  colours, 
ceilings,  and  architectural  peculiarities : 
its  decay  has  already  been  recorded. 

The  severe,  simple,  almost  forbid- 
ding exterior  of  the  Alhambra,  gives 
no  promise  of  the  Aladdin  gorgeousness 
which  once  shone  within,  when  the 
opening  of  a  single  door,  as  if  bv  the 
-•o  of  a  fairy's  wand,  admitted  the 


stranger  into  an  almost  paradise.  In 
common  with  other  Moorish  command- 
ing Alcazares,  it  is  built  on  the  crest 
of  a  hill,  and  of  tapia.  The  picturesque 
walls  and  towers,  which  fringe  the 
heights,  follow  the  natural  lines  of  the 
uneven  ground.  This  fortress-palace, 
the  dwelling  of  an  Oriental,  was  in- 
tended to  awe  the  city  below  with  the 
forbidding  exterior  of  power,  to  keep 
out  heat,  enemies  foreign  and  domestic, 
and  to  keep  in  women.  The  plain 
aspect  was  adopted  to  avert  the  effects 
of  the  evil  eye,  the  bugbear  of  Orientals, 
which  scowls  on  the  over  prosperous, 
and  dogs  their  felicity.  The  interior  vo- 
luptuousness and  splendour  was  masked 
like  the  glittering  spar  is  in  a  coarse 
pebble. 

The  internal  arrangements  were 
purely  Oriental,  with  its  colonnaded 
walks,  the  fountains,  baths,  the  diaper- 
stucco  Tarkish,  Azulejo  dado,  above 
which  hung  the  rich  Artesonado  roof, 
gilded  and  starred  like  a  heaven.  **  The 
architecture  of  the  Arabs,"  says  Owen 
Jones,  *'is  essentially  religious,  and 
the  offspring  of  the  Koran,  as  Gothic 
architecture  is  of  the  Bible.  The  pro- 
hibition to  represent  animal  life  caused 
them  to  seek  for  other  means  of  deco- 
ration— inscriptions  from  the  Koran, 
interwoven  with  geometrical  orna- 
ments and  flowers,  not  drawn  de- 
cidedly from  nature,  but  translated 
through  the  loom ;  for  it  would  seem 
that  the  Arabs,  in  chan^ng  their 
wandefing  for  a  settled  life,  in  striking 
the  tent  to  plant  it  in  a  form  more 
solid,  had  transferred  the  luxurious 
shawls  and  hangings  of  Cashmere, 
which  had  adorned  their  former  dwell- 
ins,  to  their  new,  changing  the  tent- 
pole  for  a  marble  column,  and  the 
silken  tissue  for  gilded  plaster ; "  and 
certainly  he  might  have  added  that 
the  palm -tree  was  the  type  of  the 
columns  which  they  used  in  their 
patios.  With  regard  to  the  Arabic 
inscriptions,  these  epigrammata  are 
written  in  an  ornate  character,  and  are 
decorations  of  themselves ;  their  usage 
was  borrowed  from  the  phylacteries, 
the  preservative  devices  of  the  Jews. 
Gayangos  observes  of  their  import, 
that  "  They  are  of  three  sorts  i—Aydt, 


JRonda  Sf  Granada,     route  25. — the  alhambra. 


305 


that  is  verses  from  the  Koran ;  Asjd^ 
that  is,  pious  sentences  not  taken  from 
the  Koran  ;  and  Ashdr,  that  is,  poems 
in  praise  of  the  builders  or  owners,  of 
the  palace/*  Like  most  Oriental 
poetrjr,  the  import  is  altogether  flat 
and  insipid  to  European  readers ;  the 
charm  appears  to  consist  rather  in 
sounds  and  words  than  in  meaning ; 
now  both  are  lost  to  eyes  that  under- 
stand not.  But  well  might  the  poet 
Iman  Ibn  Nasr  inscribe  one  wall  thus  : 
**  Look  attentively  2Li  my  elegance,  thou 
wilt  reap  the  benefit  of  a  commentary 
on  decoration*^  and  certainly  surface 
ornamentation  and  gorgeous  fanciful 
elegance,  were  never  carried  to  higher 
perfection  than  on  the  walls  of  the 
Alhambra. 

The  inscriptions  belonging  to  the  first 
two  classes  are  generally  written  in 
Cufic,  the  character  of  the  city  El 
Koofeh,  founded  about  the  1 7th  year  of 
the  Hegira.  The  square  form  lends 
itself  to  geometrical  patterns  ;  indeed, 
it  is  as  difficult  to  distinguish  the 
letters  from  the  diagrams,  as  it  is  the 
modern  Arabic  character  from  the 
scroUy  ornaments.  The  Cufic  letters 
are  often  so  arranged  as  to  present  a 
uniform  appearance  both  wavs ;  "  thus 
the  inscription  can  be  read  from  the  r. 
to  the  1.,  or  from  the  1.  to  the  r.,  and 
upwards  or  downwards.      The    long 

Eoems  are  all  written  in  the  African 
and,  with  such  care  that  no  letter  is 
ever  wanting  in  its  diacritic  points, 
and  the  vowels  and  grammatical 
signs  are  likewise  inserted.*'  The 
modern  Arabic  character,  the  Neskhi 
or  more  cursive,  was  adopted  about 
the  j^ear  950,  but  the  old  Cufic  one 
continued  to  be  used  in  inscriptions 
in  conjunction  with  it  down  to  1508. 
These  records,  so  speaking  to  the 
Moor,  are  full  of  meaning ;  telling  at 
every  turn  the  greatness,  goodness,  and 
unity  of  the  Godhead ;  they  are  now 
lost  on  the  **  inattentive"  stranger, 
who  can  neither  read  nor  interpret  the 
writings  on  the  wall. 

The  colours  employed  by  the  Moors 
were,  in  all  cases,  the  primary — blue, 
red,  and  yellow  (gold)  ;  blues  predomi- 
nating to  correct  the  reds  and  yellows, 
and  thus  preserve  the  harmony  of  colour 


"I  for  which  the  Moors  had  a  "  highly 
organised  natural  instinct.**  The  se- 
condary colours,  purple,  green,  and 
orange,  only  occur  in  the  dados  oi  Azu' 
^C?o,  which,  being  nearer  the  eye, formed 
a  point  of  repose  from  the  more  brilliant 
colouring  above ;  some  may  now  seem 
green,  but  this  is  the  change  effected 
by  time  on  the  original  metallic  blue. 
The  Catholic  kings  used  both  green 
and  purple,  and  their  work  can  easily 
be  discovered  by  the  coarseness  of  exe- 
cution and  the  want  of  the  harmonious 
balance  of  colours,  which  the  Moors 
understood  so  much  better.  Under  the 
Moors,  according  to  Owen  Jones,  the 
marble  pillars  were  gilt,  but  the  Span- 
iards found  it  easier  to  scrape  ofP  the 
gold  in  their  repairs,  and  thus  expose 
the  white  stone,  than  to  regild  them. 
The  elegant  palm-like  pillars  deserve 
notice,  and  especially  the  variety  of 
their  capitals ;  these  are,  in  all  cases, 
carved  in  white  marble ;  only  the  em- 
bellishments on  the  mouldings,  which 
are  now  indicated  by  faint  lines,  are 
painted,  the  ground  being  blue,  and 
the  ornament  the  white  sui^ace  of  the 
marble;  in  some  cases  this  order  is 
reversed :  few  of  the  capitals  retain 
their  colouring  perfect,  although  traces 
of  it  appear  in  almost  all ;  the  ground 
is  frequently  red,  with  blue  leaves  on 
the  upper  surfaces ;  all  the  bands  and 
inscriptions  were  in  gold ;  the  common 
inscriptions  are,  "And  there  is  no 
conqueror  but  God ;  '*  and  "  Blessing.*' 
The  dados  of  Azulejo  and  "  frets  *'  de- 
serve careful  notice.  Intricate  as  these 
interlacings  appear,  they  are  formed 
on  the  simplest  rules :  "  If  a  series  of 
lines,**  says  Owen  Jones,  "be  drawn 
equidistant  and  parallel  to  each  other, 
crossed  by  a  similar  series  at  right 
angles  so  as  to  form  squares,  and  the 
spaces  thus  given  set  off  diagonally,  in- 
tersecting each  alternate  square,  every 
possible  combination  mav  be  obtained ; 
or  an  equal  variety  will  result  by 
drawing  equidistant  lines  diagonally 
and  setting  off  the  spaces  at  each 
square  at  right  angles.  In  the  Azu- 
lejo pillars  the  component  parts  are 
the  same,  the  infinite  variety  of  pattern 
being  obtained  by  changing  the  colours 
and  juxtaposition  of  the  separate  parts. 


306 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


Where  these  Aznlejo  tiles  are  used  as 
pavements,  if  inscribed  they  have  been 
most  likely  placed  there  by  the  Spa- 
niards, for  the  Mohamedans  are  most 
careful  even  of  treading  on  any  acci- 
dental scrap  of  paper,  for  fear  it  should 
contain  the  revered  name  of  Allah. 
Many  of  the  marble  pavements  in  the 
Alhambra  clearly  were  not  the  original 
ones,  as  they  are  placed  above  the  an- 
cient level,  and  conceal  portions  of  the 
Mosaic  dado. 

The  honeycomb  stalactical  pendent- 
ives  are  all  constructed  on  mathema- 
tical principles ;  they  are  composed  of 
numerous  prisms,  united  by  their  con- 
tiguous lateral  surfaces,  consisting  of 
seven  different  forms  proceeding  from 
three  primary  figures  on  plain ;  these 
are  the  right-angled  triangle,  the  rec- 
tangle, the  isosceles  triangle.  The  va- 
rious component  parts  are  capable  of 
an  infinite  variety  of  combination,  as 
infinite  as  the  melodies  which  may  be 
produced  from  the  seven  notes  oi  the 
musical  scale.  The  conical  ceilings  in 
the  Alhambra  attest  the  wonderful 
power  and  effect  obtained  by  the  repe- 
tition of  the  most  simple  elements; 
nearly  5000  pieces  enter  into  the  con- 
struction of  the  ceiling  of  Las  dos  Her- 
manas ;  and  although  they  are  simply 
of  plaster,  strengthened  here  and 
there  with  pieces  of  reed,  they  are 
in  most  perfect  preservation :  but  the 
carpentry  of  the  Phoenicians  passed 
down  to  the  Moor.  These  houses, 
"  ceiled  with  cedar  and  painted  with 
vermilion  "  (Jer.  xxii.  14),  are  exactly 
those  of  the  ancient  Egyptians  (Wilk. 
ii.  126). 

The  Artesonado  ceilings,  the  shutter 
and  door  marqueterie  works,  resemble 
those  in  the  Alcazar  of  Seville.  The 
patterns,  although  apparently  intricate, 
are  all  reducible  to  the  simplest  geo- 
metrical rules,  and  the  same  principle 
applies  equally  to  the  Lienzos  and  Azu' 
lejos.  A  common  principle  of  surface 
ornamentation  pervades,  as  the  mos- 
lem  prohibition  of  introducing  living 
forms,  narrowed  and  fixed  the  decora- 
tive scope,  and  more  care  was  taken 
in  the  contrast  of  colour  and  variety 
of  lines.  The  Arabian  style  certainly 
-consists  of  the  multiplication  of  the 


ornate  and  minute,  and  has  neither 
the  ^and  size  of  the  -(Egyptian,  the 
exquisite  proportion  of  the  Greek  and 
Roman,  or  the  solemnity  of  the  Gothic. 

The  mode  of  hanging  the  doors  is 
that  used  by  the  ancients  in  their 
temples,  and  continued  in  the  East 
to  this  day;  they  move  on  pivots, 
forming  part  of  the  framing,  which  are 
let  into  a  socket  in  a  marble  slab  below, 
and  above  into  the  soffit  of  the  beam ; 
a  bolt  usually  secures,  at  the  same  time, 
both  the  flaps  of  the  folding-doors  and 
the  wicket. 

Entering  by  the  obscure  portal  of 
Spanish  construction,  to  the  1.  is  the 
quarter  allotted  to  the  governor's  resi- 
deuce.  The  suite  of  rooms  is  noble, 
but  every  beauteous  vestige  of  the 
Moor  has  been  swept  away.  The  first 
patio  has  various  names;  it  is  called 
de  la  Alberca  and  de  la  Barca — of  the 
"Fish-pond,"  of  the  "Bark;"  these 
are  corruptions  of  the  true  Moorish 
name"J5erfcxA,"  "the Blessing/'  which 
occurs  all  over  it  in  the  Arabic  inscrip- 
tions. "  Beerkehy"  in  Arabic,  also  sig- 
nifies a  tank,  unde  Alberca.  The  side 
walls  are  planted  with  myrtles,  whence 
it  is  called  de  los  Arrai/aneSy  Array hdn, 
Arabice  "a  myrtle."  It  is  about  150 
feet  long  by  80  wide. 

To  the  rt.  is  an  elegant  double  cor- 
ridor, the  upper  portion,  recently  re- 
paired, being  the  only  specimen  of  its 
kind  in  the  Alhambra.  Here^was  the 
grand  entrance  of  the  Moors,  which, 
with  the  whole  winter  quarter,  was 
pulled  down  by  Charles  V.,  who  built 
up  his  palace  against  it.  The  under 
saloon  was  converted  by  the  French 
into  an  oil- magazine ;  the  tank,  Es- 
tanque,  in  the  centre  of  the  court,  was 
formerly  enclosed  by  a  Moorish  balus- 
trade, which  was  pulled  down  and  sold 
in  the  time  of  Bucarelli.  The  marble 
pavement  came  from  Macael,  and  is 
now  much  broken  up,  as  the  French 
here  piled  up  their  firewood  for  their 
camp  kettles. 

The  saloons  to  the  rt.  of  this  patio, 
were  once  most  gorgeous;  they  be- 
longed to  the  monarch's  wife,  and 
hence  are  still  called  el  cuarto  de  la 
Sultdna.  These  were  gutted  in  1831 
by  the  governor  La  Serna,  who  con- 


Ronda  ^  Granada,      route  25. — the  alhambra. 


307 


verted  them  into  store-rooms  for  the 
salt-fish  of  his  presidarios.  On  the 
opposite  side  is  a  small"  room  fitted  up 
by  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  as  the 
ceiling  shows,  for  the  archives,  which, 
contained  in  iron  trunks,  have  never 
been  properly  examined.  In  1725  the 
contador  Manuel  Nunez  de  Prado 
printed  some  of  them ;  but  as  he  was 
very  ignorant  and  made  the  selection 
himself,  garbling  and  falsifying  the 
pages,  the  extracts  only  related  to  saints, 
relics,  and  nonsense,  and  were  so  absurd 
that  he  was  advised  to  buy  up  the  copies, 
which,  consequently,  are  very  rare.  A 
new  compilation  was  then  made  by  Luis 
Francisco  Viano,  a  canon  of  the  Sacro 
Monte,  who  employed  Echevarria  as 
his  amanuensis.  Just  when  they  were 
printed  Prado  died,  and  with  him  his 
project,  as  the  attorney  Venencio  then 
sold  the  sheets  for  waste  paper.  This 
little  room  contains  or  contained  a  fine 
Moorish  marble  table,  and  a  splendid 
earthenware  vase,  enamelled  in  blue, 
white,  and  gold;  the  companion  was 
broken  in  the  time  of  Montilla,  who 
used  the  fragments  as  flower-pots,  until 
a  French  lady  carried  them  away. 
There  is  some  difficulty  in  getting  into 
this  room.  The  governor,  the  contador, 
and  the  escribano,  each  have  a  key  of 
three  locks,  and  these  worthies,  like 
Macbeth's  witches,  must  be  well  paid 
before  they  will  meet — "  nuestro  aU 
caldcy  nunca  da  paso  de  valde"  The 
Azulejo  dado  which  ran  round  this 
jtatio  was  stripped  off  by  Bucarelli's 
daughters  and  sold.  Near  the  archives 
is  the  Moorish  door  which  led  to  the 
mosque. 

Advancing  to  the  great  tower  of 
Comares,  observe  the  elegant  ante- 
gallery;  the  slim  columns  would  ap- 
pear unequal  to  the  superincumbent 
weight  were  not  the  spandrels  lightened 
by  perforated  ornaments,  by  which 
also  a  cool  current  of  air  is  admitted. 
Lightness  was  the  aim  of  Moorish  archi- 
tects, as  massiveness  was  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians.  The  real  supports  were 
concealed,  and  purposely  kept  unex- 
pressed, so  that  the  apparent  supports, 
thin  pillars,  and  gossamer  perforated 
fabric,  seemed  fairy  work :  the  object 
was  to  contradict  the  idea  of  weight,  and 


let  the  masses  appear  to  hang  in  air 
floating  like  summer  clouds.  Observe 
the  divans  or  alcoves  at  each  end  of  this 
anteroom,  and  especially,  near  that  to 
the  rt.,  the  Azulejo  pillars  and  portions 
of  the  original  colours  with  which  the 
stucco  Turkish  was  decorated.  Observe, 
in  this  anteroom,  the  ceiling — a  wag- 
gon-headed dome  of  wood,  of  most 
elaborate  patterns,  and  the  honeycomb 
stalactical  pendentives. 

Before  entering  the  Hall  of  Ambas- 
sadors, pass  by  a  staircase  to  the  1., 
which  leads  up  to  the  governor's 
dwelling,  to  the  Mezqidta,  once  the 
mosque  of  the  palace.  The  patio^ 
a  picture,  was  made  a  sheep-pen  by 
Montilla*s  wife,  and  since  a  poultry- 
yard  :  one  fa9ade  retains  its  original 
Moorish  embroidery,  and  the  beams 
of  the  roof  are  the  finest  specimens  in 
the  Alhambra.  The  upper  part  of  the 
cornice  above  the  stalactites  is  wood, 
and  from  the  form  of  the  barge-board 
may  be  collected  the  shape  of  the 
original  tiles  which  rested  on  it.  The 
inscriptions  between  the  rafters  are 
"Al-Mann;'  "  The  Grace*'  of  God; 
and  on  the  moulding  underneath, 
**  And  there  is  no  conqueror  but  God," 
alternately  with  "  God  is  our  refuge 
in  every  trouble."  A  barbarous  Spa- 
nish gallery  destroys  one  side :  observe 
the  two  pillars  of  the  vestibule  and 
their  unique  capitals.  The  door  of 
the  mosque  was  stripped  of  its  bronze 
facings  by  the  Bucarellis,  who  sold 
the  copper :  a  fragment  only  remains, 
which  was  out  of  the  reach  of  these 
harpies. 

Proceeding  to  the  Mezquita,  the 
roof  was  re-painted  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella.  Near  the  entrance  on  the  rt. 
is  the  exquisite  niche,  the  Mihrah  or 
sanctuary,  in  which  the  Koran  was 
deposited.  The  inscription  at  the 
springing  of  the  arch  is  "  And  be  not 
one  o?  the  negligent."  Turning  to  the 
1.  is  the  mosque,  which  Charles  V. 
converted  into  a  chapel,  thus  himself 
doing  here  what  he  condemned  in 
others  at  Cordova  (p.  230).  The  in- 
congruous additions  mar  this  noble 
saloon.  A  heavy  ill-contrived  altar  is 
placed  in  the  middle,  while  all  around 
figure   dolphins,  pagan    mottos,    an<^ 


308 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


cinque-cento  ornaments,  with  the  arms 
of  the  Mendozas,  the  hereditary  al- 
caides. A  raised  gallery  or  pew, 
partly  gilt  and  partly  unfinished,  re- 
calls the  "  beautifying  and  repairing  *' 
of  some  bungling  churchwarden.  The 
floor  of  the  mosque  has  been  lowered 
about  2  feet,  probably  with  a  view  to 
obtain  height  for  the  pew  gallery. 

Reascending  to  the  anteroom  of  the 
Sala  de  los  Amhajadorei,  on  each  side 
at  the  entrance  are  recesses  into  which, 
according  to  some,  the  slippers  were 
placed — ^an  Oriental  and  Roman  custom 
(Exod.  iii.  5 ;  Mart.  iii.  50,  3).  The 
Asiatic,  being  the  antipodes  of  the  Eu- 
ropean, takes  off  his  shoes,  not  his  hat, 
as  a  mark  of  respect :  others  contend, 
and  perhaps  rightly,  that  these  niches 
were  meant  to  contain  alearazas,  or 
porous  drinking  vessels  filled  with  cool 
water,  the  luxury  of  the  East ;  and  this 
notion  is  borne  out  by  the  import  of 
some  of  the  inscriptions  round  these 
apertures,  e.  gr. , "  If  any  one  approach  me 
complaining  of  thirst,  he  will  receive 
cool  and  limpid  water,  sweet  without  ad- 
mixture.** This  reception-room  of 
state  occupies  the  whole  interior  of  the 
Comares  tower,  which  is  a  square  of 
37  ft.,  by  75  ft.  high  to  the  centre  of 
the  dome :  observe  the  Azulejos,  the 
Tarkish,  and  the  site  of  the  royal 
throne,  which  was  placed  opposite  the 
entrance.  The  rt.  inscription  runs, 
"  From  me,  this  throne,  thou  art  wel- 
comed morning  and  evening  by  the 
tongues  of  Blessing-^  Berkah — ^pros- 
perity, happiness,  and  friendship  ;  that 
IS  the  elevated  dome,  and  we,  the  se- 
veral recesses,  are  her  daughters ;  yet 
I  possess  excellence  and  dignity  above 
all  those  of  my  race.  Surely  we  are 
all  members  of  the  same  body,  but  I 
am  like  the  heart  in  the  midst  of  them, 
and  from  the  heart  springs  all  energy 
of  soul  and  life.*'  The  I.  inscription 
runs,  "  True,  my  fellows,  these  may 
be  compared  to  the  signs  of  the  zodiac 
in  the  heaven  of  that  dome,  but  I  can 
boast  that  of  which  they  are  wanting, 
the  honour  of  a  sun,  since  my  lord, 
the  victorious  Yusiif,  has  decorated 
me  with  robes  of  glory,  and  excellence 
without  disguise,  and  has  made  me 
"^'>   Throne  of  his  Empire:   may   its 


eminence  be  upheld  by  the  Master  of 
divine  glory  and  the  celestial  throne  !*' 
And  splendid  indeed  must  all  have 
been  under  the  Moor,  and  in  perfect 
contrast  with  the  present  Spanish  abo- 
mination of  desolation.  The  existing 
ceiling,  an  artesonado  dome  of  wood, 
ornamented  by  ribs  intersecting  each 
other  in  various  patterns,  with  orna- 
ments in  gold,paintedon  grounds  of  blue 
and  red  in  the  interstices,  is  composed  of 
the  Alerce,  and  darkened  by  time ;  the 
original  ceiling  was  of  stucco,  but  fell 
down  with  an  arch  which  once  was 
carried  across  the  hall.  The  enor- 
mous thickness  of  the  walls  may  be 
estimated  by  the  windows,  which  are 
so  deeply  recessed  as  to  look  like 
cabinets,  or  the  lateral  chapels  of  a 
cathedral.  The  views  from  them  are 
enchanting.  **  Ill-fated  the  man  who 
lost  all  this,**  said  Charles  V.  when 
he  looked  out.  The  saloon  has  been 
much  injured  by  earthquakes  and  the 
heavy  wooden  shutters  introduced  by 
this  Charles.  Below  this  hall  are 
some  vaulted  rooms,  where  some  se- 
cond-rate marble  statues,  probably  by 
Pedro  Machuca,  2  nymphs  and  a  Ju- 
piter and  Leda,  are  deposited,  being 
considered  too  nude  for  Spanish  pru- 
dery. Observe  the  infinity^  of  sub- 
terraneous intercommunications,  most 
of  which  have  been  blocked  up  by  the 
Spaniards :  these  were  the  escapes  of 
the  Sultan  in  times  of  outbreak.  Here 
also  were  the  state  prisons,  and  from 
the  window  looking  down  on  the 
Darro  it  is  said  that  *Ayeshah,  fearful 
of  her  rival  Zoraya,  let  down  Boabdil 
in  a  basket,  as  James  I.  was  from  the 
castle  of  Edinbilr^h. 

Coming  up  again,  turning  to  the  rt., 
a  heavy  gallery,  built  by  Charles  V., 
leads  to  the  Ihcador  de  la  Reina,  or 
the  dressing-room  of  the  Queen,  as  the 
Spaniards  have  called  this  somewhat 
exposed,  and  a  la  Bathshehah  Mirador, 
which  is  only  the  Tooc  keyseh  of  the 
Moslem  of  Cairo  (see  Lane,  ii.  62). 
The  chilly  Fleming  Charles  blocked 
up  the  elegant  Moorish  colonnade, 
and  the  marble  shafts  still  struggle 
to  get  out  of  their  mortar  prison.  The 
royal  dressing-room  is  about  9  feet 
square;   the  interior  was  modernised 


RoTida  Sf  Granada,      route  25. — the  alhambra. 


309 


by  Charles,  and  painted  in  arabesque 
like  the  Vatican  loggie ;  but  no  picture 
of  art  can  come  up  to  those  of  nature, 
when  we  look  around  on  the  hills  and 
defiles  as  seen  from  between  the  marble 
colonnade.  The  artists  were  Julio 
and  Alesandro,  pupils  of  Giovanni  da 
Udina,  who  had  come  to  Spain  to  de- 
corate the  house  of  Francisco  de  los 
Cobos,  the  Emperor's  secretary,  at 
Ubeda.  They  represent  views  of 
Italian  seaports,  battles,  ships,  and 
banners,  but  have  been  barbarously 
mutilated.  These  walls  are  scribbled 
over  with  the  names  of  travellers,  the 
homage  of  all  nations.  In  a  comer  is 
a  marble  slab  drilled  with  holes, 
through  which  perfumes  were  said  to 
have  been  wafted  up  while  the  Sultana 
was  dressing,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
"  Foramina  et  Specularia  *'  of  the  an- 
cients, but  the  room  was  either  an 
oratory  or  a  mere  mirador,  as  an  ex- 
posed alfresco  dressing-room  would 
have  been  an  absurdity. 

From  the  anteroom  of  the  Comares 
a  passage,  protected  by  iron  gratings, 
leads  to  the  Moorish  baths ;  this 
place  is  absurdly  called  el  Carcel  de  la 
Iteina,  from  supposing  it  to  have  been 
the  dungeon  of  'Ayeshah.  The  de- 
fences are  of  Spanish  construction,  and 
were  put  up  in  1639  to  protect  the 
royal  plate-closet.  The  little  patio 
below  is  well  preserved,  for  these 
hauos  lay  out  of  the  way  of  ordinary 
ill-usage.  They  consist  of  EL  Baiio 
del  Eey  and  El  Bano  del  Principe, 
The  vapour-bath  is  lighted  from  above 
by  small  lumbreras  or  "  louvres."  The 
Moorish  cauldron  and  leaden  pipes 
were  sold  by  the  daughters  of  Buca- 
relli.  The  Azulejos  are  curious.  The 
arrangement  of  these  baths  is  that  still 
used  m  Cairo:  the  bathers  undressed 
in  the  entrance  saloon,  and  underwent 
in  the  Hararah,  or  the  "  vapour-bath," 
the  usual  shampooings.  The  upper 
portion  of  the  chamber  of  repose  has 
a  gallery  in  which  musicians  were 
placed.  Among  the  inscriptions  is 
"  Glory  to  our  Lord,  Abd-l-Hajaj 
Yustif,  commander  of  the  Moslems: 
may  God  render  him  victorious  over 
his  enemies!  What  is  most  to  be 
wondered   at  is   the    felicity    which 


awaits  in  this  delightful  spot."  Near 
the  banos  is  a  whispering  -  gallery, 
which  pleases  the  childish,  tasteless 
natives  more  than  anv  Moorish  re- 
mains. The  suite  of  rooms  above 
were  modernised  by  the  newly  married 
Charles  V.,  who  arrived  here  June  5, 
1526.  Here  Spaniards  contend  that 
Philip  II.  was  at  least  begotten,  if  he 
was  bom  at  Valladolid,  May  21,  1527. 
The  ceilines,  heavy  fire-places,  and 
carvings  of  Charles,  are  diametrically 
opposed  to  the  work  of  the  Moor :  he 
demolished  everything  both  here  and 
to  the  1.  in  the  Patio  de  los  Arrayanes^ 
called  also  De  Lindaraja,  from  the 
name  of  a  Moorish  princess.  There  is 
an  Arabic  fountain  m  the  court. 

Retracing  our  steps  through  the 
Patio  de  la  Alberca,  ve  pass  by  an 
anteroom,  much  altered  by  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  and  still  worse  by  Philip 
v.,  into  the  Court  of  Lions,  a  Moorish 
cloisteTy  but  one  never  framed  for  aE» 
cetics.  Here  Spanish  bad  taste  and 
foreign  Vandalism  have  done  their 
worst.  The  vile  tiled  roof,  fitter  for 
a  bam  than  a  palace,  was  clapped  on 
by  the  Irishman  Wall  in  1770 — a  round 
hat  on  a  gorgeous  Mameluke.  The 
cockney  garden  was  the  work  of  the 
French ;  that,  thank  God !  has  been 
done  away  with  recently.  The  repairs 
and  whitewashings  are  Spanish.  Ay  I 
de  mi  Alhambra  I 

The  patio  is  an  hypethral  quadri- 
lateral oblong  of  some  1 16  feet  by  66 ; 
128  pillars  of  white  marble  11  feet  high 
support  a  peristyle  or  portico  on  each 
side,  so  say  travellers  of  the  line  and 
rule  class :  at  each  end,  two  elegant  pa- 
vilions project  into  the  court.  The  co- 
lumns are  placed  sometimes  singly, 
sometimes  grouped ;  although  they  are 
so  slender  that  they  scarcely  seem 
able  to  support  the  arches,  5  centuries 
of  neglect  have  not  yet  destroyed  this 
slight  fairy  thing  of  filigree,  which 
has  not  even  the  appearance  of  dura- 
bility ;  wherever  the  destroyer  has 
mutilated  the  fragile  ornaments,  the 
temple-loving  martlet,  guest  of  sum- 
mer, builds  his  nest,  and  careers  in 
the  delicate  air,  breaking  with  his 
twitter  the  silence  of  these  sunny,  now 
deserted,  courts,  once  made  for  Ori- 


310 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA. 


Sect.  III. 


ental  enjoyment,  and  even  now  just 
the  place  to  read  the  Arabian  Nights 
in,  or  spend  a  honeymoon. 

The  fuente  in  the  centre  is  a  dode* 
cagon  basin  of  alabaster,  resting  on 
the  backs  of  12  lions,  inidely  and  her- 
aldically  carved,  and  closely  resembling 
those  of  Apulia  and  Calabria,  by  which 
tombs  and  pulpits  of  Norman-Saracenic 
mosaic  work  are  supported.  These 
Arabian  sculptures  make  up  for  want 
of  reality  by  a  sort  of  quaint  heraldic 
antiquity  ;  such  were  those  described 
by  Arnobius  (Adv.  Gen.  vi.),  "  Inter 
Deos  videmus  Leonis  torvissimam 
faciem."  Their  faces  are  barbecued,  and 
their  manes  cut  like  scales  of  a  griffin, 
and  the  legs  like  bedposts,  with  the  feet 
concealed  by  the  pavement,  whiie  a 
water-pipe  stuck  in  their  mouths  does 
not  add  to  their  dignity.  Lions,  from 
remote  antiquity,  have  been  used  as 
supporters;  the  Oriental  type  will  be 
found  in  the  throne  of  Solomon  (I 
Kings  vii.  29;  x.  20).  In  fact,  the 
whole  Alhambra  must  have  been  like 
the  ancient  and  Byzantine  palaces. 
The  Hypodromus,  the  "  portico  with 
a  hundred  pillars,"  the  Azulejo  pave- 
ment, the  cypresses,  the  net-work  of 
fountains,  the  sound  of  falling  waters, 
are  all  detailed  by  Martial  (xii.  50) 
and  Pliny,  jun.  (Ep.  v.  6),  and  such 
was  the  palace  of  Justinian  described 
by  Gibbon.  The  inscription  round 
the  basin  signifies,  "  Blessed  be  He 
who  gave  the  Imam  Mohamed  a  man- 
sion, which  in  beauty  exceeds  all 
other  mansions ;  and  if  not  so,  here  is 
a  garden  containing  wonders  of  art, 
the  like  of  which  God  forbids  should 
elsewhere  be  found.  Look  at  this 
solid  mass  of  pearl  glistening  all 
around,  and  spreading  through  the  air 
its  showers  of  prismatic  bubbles,  which 
fall  within  a  circle  of  silvery  froth, 
and  flow  amidst  other  jewels,  surpass- 
ing everything  in  beauty,  nay,  ex- 
ceeding the  marble  itself  in  whiteness 
and  transparencv :  to  look  at  the  basin 
one  would  imagine  it  to  be  a  mass  of 
solid  ice,  and  the  water  to  melt  from 
it;  yet  it  is  impossible  to  say  which 
of  the  two  is  really  flowing.  Seest 
thou  not  how  the  water  from  above 
lows  on  the  surface,  notwithstanding 


the  current  underneath  strives  to  op- 
pose its  progress;  like  a  lover  whose 
eyelids  are  pregnant  with  tears,  and 
who  suppresses  them  for  fear  of  an  in- 
former? for  truly,  what  else  is  this 
fountain  but  a  benefic^t  cloud  pouring 
out  its  abundant  supplies  over  the 
lions  underneath,  like  the  hands  of  the 
Khalif,  when  he  rises  in  the  morning 
to  distribute  plentiful  rewards  among 
his  soldiers,  the  Lions  of  war  ?  Oh ! 
thou  who  beholdest  these  Lions  crouch- 
ing, fear  not ;  life  is  wanting  to  enable 
them  to  show  their  fury :  and  Oh ! 
thou,  the  heir  of  the  Anssar,  to  thee, 
as  the  most  illustrious  offspring  of  a 
collateral  branch,  belongs  that  ances- 
tral pride  which  makes  thee  look  with 
contempt  on  the  kings  of  all  other 
countries.  May  the  blessings  of  God 
for  ever  be  with  thee !  May  he  make 
thy  subjects  obedient  to  thy  rule,  and 
grant  thee  victory  over  thy  enemies  V 
Since  the  damages  done  by  Sebas- 
tian, the  fountains  of  the  amphibious 
Moor,  which  played  here  in  all  direc- 
tions, long  remained  ruined  and  dry. 
That  of  the  Lions  alone  is  restored, 
and  occasionally  is  set  in  action.  Some 
of  the  most  beautiful  chambers  of  the 
Alhambra  open  into  this  court :  begin- 
ning to  the  rt.  is  the  Sala  de  los  Men- 
cerrages ;  the  exquisite  door  was  sawn 
into  pieces  in  1837  by  the  barbarian 
Spanish  governor :  observe  the  honey- 
comb stalactite  roof;  the  slender  pillar 
of  the  alcove  explains  how  Samson 
pulled  down  the  support  of  the  house 
of  Dagon.  The  roof  and  Azulejos  were 
repaired  by  Charles  V. :  the  guide 
points  out  some  dingy  stains  near  the 
fountain  as  the  blood-marks  of  the 
Abencerrages,  massacred  here  by  Boab- 
dil ;  alas,  that  boudoirs  made  for  love 
and  life  should  witness  scenes  of  hatred 
and  death  1  And  oh,  dearest  reader! 
believe  this  and  every  tale  of  the  Al- 
hambra, a  sacred  spot  far  beyond  the 
jurisdiction  of  matter-of-fact  and  pro- 
saic history :  do  not  disenchant  the 
romance  of  poetry,  the  genius  loci ; 
where  fairies  have  danced  their  mystic 
rings,  flowers  may  spring,  but  mere 
grass  will  never  grow:  above  all, 
eschew  geology ;  deem  not  these  spots 
ferruginous,  for  nothing  is  more  cer- 


Ronda^  Granada,      route  25. — the  alhambra. 


311 


tain  than  that  heroic  blood  never  can 
be  effaced,  still  less  if  shed  in  foul 
murder.  Nor,  according  to  Lady 
Macbeth,  will  all  the  perfumes  of 
Arabia  mask  the  smell.  Tiiis  blood  is 
quite  as  genuine,  to  all  intents  of  ro- 
mance as  IS  that  of  Rizzioat  Holyrood- 
bouse,  or  of  Becket  at  Canterbury. 
Beware,  says  Voltaire,  "  des  gens  durs 
qui  si  disent  solides,  des  esprits  som- 
bres  qui  pr^tendent  au  •  jugement 
parce-qu'ils  sont  depourvus  d'imagina- 
tion,  qui  veulent  proscrire  la  belle  an- 
tiquity de  la  fable- gardez-Yous  bien 
de  les  croire." 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  court  are  3 
saloons  of  extremely  rich  decoration : 
the  Sala  de  Jnsticia  is  so  called  from 
an  assemblage  of  10  bearded  Moors 
seated  in  a  council  or  divan,  which  is 
painted  on  the  ceiling.  According  to 
Mendoza  (Guer.  de  Gran.  1),  the 
portraits  represent  the  successors  of 
King  Bulharix ;  all  this  is  sheer  non- 
sense— but  they,  painted  about  1460, 
deserve  notice  as  giving  the  true 
costume  of  the  Granada  Moor;  the 
other  pictures  represent  chivalrous 
and  amorous  subjects,  all  naturally 
tending  to  the  honour  of  the'  Moor, 
whose  royal  shield  is  seen  everywhere : 
in  one  a  Moor  unhorses  a  Christian 
warrior;  another  represents  a  captive 
lady  leading  a  chained  lion,  while  she 
is  delivered  from  a  wild  man  by  a 
knight.  Observe  a  game  of  draughts 
( the  ddmch  of  the  Arab,  the  aux  dames 
of  France);  also  the  boar-huntings, 
with  ladies  looking  out  of  turreted 
castles,  Christians  on  horseback,  Moors 
in  sweeping  robes,  with  a  background 
of  trees,  buildings,  birds,  animals, 
magpies,  and  rabbits,  painted  like  an 
illuminated  book  of  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury, or  a  dream  of  Chaucer's : — 

"  On  the  walls  old  portraiture 

Of  horsemen,  hawkes.  and  houndes. 
And  hartes  dire  all  full  of  woundes." 

It  is  not  known  by  whom  these  pic- 
tures, unique  considering  the  period, 
persons,  and  locality,  were  executed, 
probably  by  some  Christian  renegado. 
They  -  are  painted  in  bright  colours, 
which  are  still  fresh;  the  tints  are 
flat,  and  were  first  drawn  in  outline  in 
a  brown  colour,  and  on  skins  of  ani- 


mals sewn  together  and  nailed  to  the 
dome :  a  fine  coating  of  gypsum  was 
used  *  as  priming — a  common  process 
with  the  early  Byzantine  painters :  the 
ornaments  on  the  gold  ground  are  in 
relief;  they  are  now,  and  have  long 
been,  neglected.  It  is  to  be  wished 
that  these  relics,  which  in  any  other 
country  would  be  preserved  under 
glass,  should  be  accurately  copied  the 
full  size,  for  the  plates  in  Murphy  are 
beneath  criticism,  from  their  gross  in- 
accuracy. 

Of  the  many  beautiful  arches  in  this 
building,  few  surpass  that  which  opens 
into  the  central  saloon;  observe  the 
archivolt,  spandrels,  and  inscriptions : 
surface  lace-like  ornamentation  never 
was  carried  beyond  this.  In  the 
last  of  the  3  rooms  the  cross  was 
first  placed  by  Cardinal  Mendoza,  and 
the  identical  one  is  preserved  at  To- 
ledo. Ferdinand  "  purified  "  these 
once  gorgeous  saloons,  that  is,  white- 
wash^ them,  and  introduced  his  and 
his  wife's  badges,  the  yoke  and  the 
bundle  of  arrows.  And  there  is  a 
moral  in  these  symbols,  which  Spa- 
niards now-a-days  will  not  understand: 
they  inculcate  "  union,"  the  "  drawing 
together,"  and  a  fair  equality,  instead 
of  struggle  for  pre-eminence.  It  was 
by  Arragon  and  Castile's  "  pulling  to- 
gether" that  the  Moorish  house,  di- 
vided against  itself,  was  overthrown. 

Opposite  to  the  Sala  de  los  Aben- 
cerrages  is  that  of  Las  dos  Jlermanas,  so 
called  from  the  2  slabs  of  Macael  marble, 
sisters  in  colour  and  form,  which  are  let 
into  the  pavement.  This  formed  a  por- 
tion of  the  private  apartments  of  the 
Moorish  kings,  of  which  so  much  has 
been  destroyed,  and  the  alcoves  or  sleep- 
ing-rooms on  each  side  give  it  the 
character  of  a  residence.  This  Sala 
and  its  adjuncts  is  unequalled  for  the 
beauty  and  symmetry  of  the  ornaments, 
the  stalactite  roof  and  general  richness, 
notwithstanding  the  degradation  and 
defilements  perpetrated  during  the  sad 
long  years  of  Spanish  misrule.  What 
must  it  once  have  been,  cum  tales  sunt 
reliquiee  I  Well  may  one  of  the  inscrip- 
tions invite  us  to  "  Look  attentively 
at  my  elegance,  and  thou  wilt  reap 
the  benefit  of  a  commentary  on  decora- 


312 


ROUTE  25. — GEAXADA. 


Sect.  HI. 


Hon;  here  are  columns  ornamented 
with  every  perfection,  and  the  beauty 
of  which  has  become  proverbial — co- 
lumns which  y  when  struck  by  the  rays 
of  the  rising  sun,  one  might  fancy, 
notwithstanding  their  colossal  dimen- 
sions, to  be  so  many  blocks  of  pearl ; 
indeeid,  we  never  saw  a  palace  mote 
lofty  than  this  in  its  exterior,  or  more 
brilliantly  decorated  in  its  interior,  or 
having  more  extensive  apartments." 
This  beautiful  saloon  was  made  a 
work -shop  under  Montilla,  and  in  1832 
was  mutilated  by  the  corporation  of 
Granada,  who  employed  a  dauber, 
one  Muriel,  to  put  up  some  paltry 
things  for  a  fSte  given  to  thie  Infante 
Francisco  de  Paula,  for  which  the 
Moorish  decorations  were  ruthlessly 
broken,  and  the  **  marks  of  the  beast" 
are  yet  visible.  The  entrance  to  this 
Sala  passes  under  some  most  elaborate 
engrailed  arches  with  rich  intersecting 
ornaments;  observe  the  Oriental  me- 
thod of  hanging  the  doors.  Above  is 
an  upper  story  with  latticed  windows, 
through  which  the  **  dark-eyed,"  or 
Hauras  of  the  Hareem,  could  view  the 
fdtes  below,  themselves  unseen  and 
guarded,  the  idols  of  a  secret  shrine, 
treasures  too  precious  to  be  gazed  upon 
by  any  one  but  their  liege  lord.  This 
vrt^Mov  and  rweciKtiov  is  similar  in  con« 
struction  to  those  used  still  in  the  East 
and  in  Tetuan  ;  but  here,  as  elsewhere, 
everything  proves  the  extent  of  Spanish 
destruction,  which  has  swept  away  the 
important  portions  of  the  Seraglio  or 
Hareem,  and  rendered,  as  Owen  Jones 
says,  even  an  imaginary  restoration  of 
the  original  building  impossible. 

At  the  end  of  the  Sala  is  a  charming 
window  looking  into  the  Patio  de  Liri'^ 
c/^rq/a,  which  Charles  V.  disfigured  with 
his  brick  additions.  This  Ventana  and  its 
alcove  were  the  boudoir  of  the  Sultana, 
on  which  poetry  and  art  exhausted 
their  efforts ;  all  the  varieties  of  form 
and  colour  which  adorn  other  por- 
tions of  the  Alhambra  are  here  united. 
The  inscriptions,  to  those  who  do  not 
understand  Arabic,  appear  to  be  only 
beautiful  and  complex  scroll-work ; 
while  to  the  initiated  they  sing 
"  Praise  to  God !  Delicately  have  the 
fingers  of  the  artist  embroidered  my 


robe  after  setting  the  jewels  of  my  dia- 
dem. People  compare  me  to  the 
throne  of  a  bride ;  yet  I  surpass  it  in 
this,  that  I  can  secure  the  felicity  of 
those  who  possess  me." 

Such  is  the  Alhambra  in  its  decayed 
and  fallen  state,  unvisited  save  by 
the  twittering  martlet,  who,  like  the 
stranger,  comes  with  the  spring  and 
flies  away  with  the  last  smile  of  sum- 
mer ;  now  it  is  but  the  carcase  of  what 
it  was  when  vivified  by  a  living  soul ; 
now  it  is  the  tomb,  not  the  home  of  the 
Moor.  It  may  disappoint  those  who, 
fonder  of  the  present  and  a  cigar  than 
of  the  past  and  the  abstract,  arrive 
heated  with  the  hill,  and  are  thinking 
of  getting  back  to  an  ice,  a  dinner,  and 
a  siesta.  Again,  the  nonsense  of  an- 
nuals has  fostered  an  over-exaggerated 
notion  of  a  place  which  from  the 
dreams  of  boyhood  has  been  fancy- 
formed  as  a  fabric  of  the  Genii.  Few 
airy  castles  of  illusion  will  stand  the 
prosaic  test  of  reality,  and  nowhere 
less  than  in  Spain.  But  to  understand 
the  Alhambra,  it  must  be  lived  in,  and 
beheld,  as  we  have  done  so  often,  in 
the  semi-obscure  evening,  so  beauti- 
ful of  itself  in  the  South,  and  when 
ravages  are  less  apparent,  than  when 
flouted  by  the  gay  day-glare.  At  twi- 
light it  becomes  entirely  a  vision  of  the 
past,  for  daylight  dispels  the  dreamy 
haunted  air,  and  we  begin  to  examine, 
measure,  and  criticise,  while  on  a  stilly 
summer  night  all  is  again  given  up 
to  the  past  and  to  the  Moor:  then, 
when  the  moon,  Dian's  bark  of  pearl, 
floats  above  it  in  the  air  like  his  cres- 
cent symbol,  the  tender  beam  heals  the 
scars,  and  makes  them  contribute  to 
the  sentiment  of  widowed  loneliness. 
The  wan  rays  tip  the  filigree  arches, 
semant  les  murs  de  trefles  blancs  ;  a 
depth  is  then  given  to  the  shadows,  and 
a  misty  undefined  magnitude  to  the  sa- 
loons beyond,  which  sleep  in  darkness 
and  silence,  broken  only  by  the  drony 
flight  of  some  bat.  The  reflections  in 
the  ink-black  tank  glitter,  like  sub- 
aqueous silver  palaces  of  Undines ;  as  we 
linger  in  the  recesses  of  the  windows, 
below  lies  Granada,  with  its  busy  hum, 
and  the  lights  sparkle  like  stars  on  the 
obscure  Albaicin  as  if  we  were  looking 


Honda  Sf  Granada,      routs  25. — hill  of  the  alhambra. 


313 


down  on  the  cielo  hajo,  or  reversed  fir- 
mament. The  baying  of  the  dog  and 
the  tinkling  of  a  guitar,  indicating  life 
there,  increase  the  desolation  of  the 
Alhambra.  Then  in  proportion  as  all 
here  around  is  dead  do  the  fancy  and 
imagination  become  alive,  the  halls 
and  courts  seem  to  expand  into  a 
larger  size:  the  shadows  of  the  cy- 
presses on  the  walls  assume  the  forms 
of  the  dusky  Moor,  revisiting  his  lost 
home  in  the  glimpses  of  the  moon, 
while  the  night  winds,  breathing 
through  the  unglazed  windows  and 
myrtles,  rustle  as  his  silken  robes,  or 
sigh  like  his  lament  over  the  profana- 
tion of  the  infidel  and  the  defilement 
of  the  unclean  destroyer. 

The  Alhambra  hill  is  about  2690  ft. 
long  by  730  ft.  in  its  widest  part ;  the 
walls  average  30  ft.  high  and  6  ft. 
thick :  shaped  like  a  grand  piano, 
with  the  point  to  the  Torre  de  la  Vela ; 
it  is  girdled  with  walls  and  towers. 
Many  of  these,  exquisitely  ornamented, 
formed  the  detached  residences  of  fa- 
vourite sultanas,  royal  children,  and 
great  officers.  Leaving  the  palace  by  a 
small  door  at  the  hall  of  justice,  is  an 
open  space,  on  which  a  few  years  ago, 
was  a  fine  Moorish  tank,  now  filled 
up  with  rubbish  by  galley-slaves.  To 
the  rt.  is  a  small  Alameda,  and  the 
parish  ch..  La  Santa  Maria,  built 
m  1581,  by  Juan  de  Ve^,  which 
was  turned  into  a  magazine  under 
Sebastiani ;  on  the  S.  side,  let  into  the 
wall,  is  a  Gothic  stone,  found  in  dig- 
ging the  foundations,  and  recording 
the  restoration  of  3  churches  by  one 
Gudilla ;  observe  the  use  of  ser- 
vmIos  operarios,  instead  of  the  ablative, 
as  an  early  instance  of  the  change 
taking  place  in  grammatical  Latinity. 
Following  the  outer  wall  to  the  1.  is  the 
Casa  del  Observatorio,  so  called  from 
its  mirador,  or  Casa  Sanchez,  from 
having  been  the  dwelling  of  honest 
Sanchez,  our  most  trustworthy  mule- 
teer, who  now  lives  in  the  Alhambra, 
Puerto  del  Carril,  and  may  be  most 
safely  employed.  Once  most  pictur- 
esque, inside  and  outside,  and  beloved 
by  every  artist,  in  1837  it  was  ruined  by 
a  barbarian  empleado.  To  this  was 
attached  a  Moorish  Mezquita,  which  is 
Spain, — I. 


now  isolated  in  the  garden  below,  of 
which  the  mihrah,  or  holy  niche  for 
the  Koran,  is  most  elaborate.  Near 
this  a  modern  mosque  has  been  erected, 
or  rather  a  sort  of  caricature  summer- 
house,  which  is  admired  by  the  natives, 
and  this  even  in  the  Alhambra  !  Here 
also  among  weeds  lie  the  two  Moorish 
lions,  which  formerly  were  in  the 
Casa  de  Moneda. 

Continuing  lower  down  is  the  Moor- 
ish postern  Kate,  La  Torre  del  Pico, 
bftt  the  machicolations  are  of  the  time 
of  the  Catholic  sovereigns.  The  French 
intended  to  blow  this  tower  up,  as  a 
parting  legacy ;  the  holes  made  by 
their  miners  yet  remain,  and  prove 
their  good  intentions,  but  the  procras- 
tination of  their  agent,  Parses,  saved 
the  building.  From  this  gate  a  path, 
crossing  the  ravine,  leads  up  to  the 
Generalife ;  return,  however,  first,  to 
the  Casa  Sanchez.  In  the  garden  oppo" 
site  was  the  house,  for  it  no  longer 
exists,  of  the  Conde  de  Tendilla,  the 
first  Alcaide  of  the  Alhambra.  The 
fruit  grown  on  this  spot  is  especially 
exquisite.  The  bones  of  the  gallant 
Tendilla  were  placed  under  the  high 
altar  in  the  adjoining  convent  of  .Fran- 
ciscans, founded  by  himself ;  these 
Sebastiani  scattered  to  the  winds,  mak- 
ing the  place  a  barrack  for  Polish 
lancers;  here  the  body  of  the  Great 
Captain  was  placed  until  removed  to 
San  Jeronimo;  and  here  also,  under 
the  two  engrailed  Moorish  arches, 
long  rested  the  coffins  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  until  their  sepulchre  in 
the  cathedral  was  finished:  pillaged 
and  desecrated  by  Sebastiani,  this  con- 
vent has  since  been  turned  into  a  maga- 
zine by  the  Spaniards. 

The  grand  mosque  of  the  Alhambra 
stood  near;  it  was  built  in  1308  by 
Mohammed  III.,  and  is  thus  described 
by  Ibnu-1-Khdttib : — It  is  "ornamented 
with  Mosaic  work,  and  exquisite  tra- 
cery of  the  most  beautiful  and  intri- 
cate patterns,  intermixed  with  silver 
flowers  and  graceful  arches,  supported 
by  innumerable  pillars  of  the  finest 
polished  marble;  indeed,  what  with 
the  solidity  of  the  structure,  which 
the  Sultan  inspected  in  person,  the 
elegance  of  the  design,  and  the  beauty 


314 


ROUTE  25. GEXERALIFE. 


Sect.  III. 


of  the  proportions,  the  building  has 
not  its  like  in  this  country;  and  I 
have  frequently  heard  our  best  archi- 
tects say  that  they  had  never  seen  or 
heard  of  a  building  which  can  be 
compared  to  it."  This,  continues 
Gayangos,  was  in  very  good  preserva- 
tion until  the  ruthless  occupation  of 
Sebastiani,  when  it  was  entirely  de- 
stroyed. 

Turning  hence,  again,  to  the  walls, 
visit  La  Torre  de  las  Infantas,  once  the 
residence  of  the  Moorish  princesses, 
now  of  squalid  poverty ;  to  the  1.  are  2 
other  towers,  called  those  oidel  Candil 
and  de  las  Cautivas ;  the  latter  con- 
tains elegant  arches  and  delicate  Tark- 
ish.  Continuing  to  the  rt.  is  the  comer 
tower,  de  la  Agua ;  here  an  aqueduct, 
stemming  the  most  picturesque  ravine, 
supplies  the  hill  with  water.  The  re- 
treating invaders  blew  up  this  and  the 
next  tower,  and  had  they  succeeded,  as 
they  wished,  in  destroying  the  aque- 
duct, the  Alhambra  would  have  become 
again  a  desert.  Other  Corsican-injured 
towers  now  intervene  between  "  Los 
Siete  Suelos"  the  7  stories,  or  the 
former  grand  gate  by  which  Boabdil 
went  put,  descending  to  the  Xenil  bj 
the  Puerta  de  las  Molinos :  hence  it 
was  afterwards  walled  up,  as  being  a 
gate  of  bad  omen.  This  is  a  pure 
Orientalism.  So  likewise,  when  princes 
came  in,  "  This  gate  shall  be  shut,  it 
shall  not  be  opened,  no  man  shall 
enter  in  by  it "  (Ezek.  xliv.  2).  All 
was  wantonly  blown  up  by  the  enemy. 
The  walls  were  14  ft.  thick,  but  what 
can  withstand  **  villainous  saltpetre  ?  " 
Whatever  escaped  did  so  by  lucky  ac- 
cident, and  now  the  ruins  of  6  towers, 
their  fragments  of  embroidery  and  por- 
celain, testify  what  they  once  were ; 
all  this  quarter,  with  the  Moorish 
palace  of  the  Mufti  and  La  Casa  de  las 
ViudaSy  was  levelled  by  Sebastian!  to 
make  an  exercising-ground  for  his 
soldiers.  Passing  the  Puerta  del  Carril, 
by  which  carriages  enter  the  Alhambra, 
the  circuit  is  completed. 

To  visit  the  Generalife,  pass  out  at 
the  Puerta  del  Pico ;  to  the  1.  are  the 
remains  of  the  stables  of  the  Moorish 
guard.  A  deep  and  romantic  ravine 
^ow  divides  the  hill  of  the  Alhambra 


from  the  Sierra  del  Sol.  Ascending 
amid  figs  and  vines  is  the  Generalise 
— Jennatu-l-'arif,  the  "  garden  of  the 
architect,"  of  whom  Isma'il-Ibn-Faraj, 
the  Sultan,  purchased  the  site  in  1320. 
This  mountain  villa,  Senectutis  nidultts, 
now  belongs  to  the  Marquis  of  Campo- 
tejar,  of  the  Grimaldi  Gentili  famUy. 
He  is  an  absentee,  living  at  Genoa,  so 
the  real  owner,  as  usual,  is  the  admi- 
nistrador.  This  is  a  viUa  of  waters ; 
the  canal  of  the  Darro  empties  here  its 
full  virgin  stream ;  it  boils  through  the 
court  under  evergreen  arches,  while  an 
open  colonnade  overlooks  the  Alham- 
bra, no  longer  seeming  like  a  filigree 
boudoir,  but  a  grand  sombre  solid  mass 
of  fortress.  The  paltry  chapel  is  not 
worth  visiting;  the  hving-rooms  are 
at  the  head  of  the  court,  but  the  inmates 
and  furniture  present  a  miserable 
contrast  with  Moorish  forms  and  colour. 
Observe  the  arches  and  arabesques; 
here  are  some  bad  and  apocryphal  por- 
traits ;  one  of  El  Rey  Chico  is  dressed 
like  Franyois  I.  in  yellow  and  black  fur, 
and  has  the  inoffensive  look  of  a  man 
fitter  to  lose  than  to  win  a  throne ;  here 
is  also  a  bad  portrait  of  the  Great  Cap- 
tain, in  black  and  gold :  ditto  of  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella.  Observe  the  ge- 
nealogical tree  of  the  Grimaldi ;  the 
founder,  Cidi  Aya,  a  Moorish  infante, 
aided  Ferdinand  at  the  conquest,  and 
became  a  Christian  by  the  name  of 
Don  Pedro  ;  here  also  is  his  son  Alonso^ 
trampling  like  a  renegado  on  Moorish 
flags ;  the  sword  of  the  Rey  Chico  was 
the  greatest  curiosity  of  the  house. 
Visit  the  cypresses,  the  "  trysting- 
place "  of  the  Sultana ;  which  are 
enormous,  and  old  as  the  Moors  ;  the 
frail  Zoraya  is  said  to  have  been  dis- 
covered under  them,  with  her  lover,  the 
Abencerrage  ;  but  all  this  is  a  calumny 
of  Romanceros,  and  time  out  of  mind 
trees  have  borne  false  witness,  like  the 
"  Holm  and  Mastick "  of  the  chaste 
Susanna.  The  guides,  however,  point 
them  out,  exactly  as  the  myrtles  at 
TroBzene,  under  which  Phsedra  became 
enamoured  of  Hippolytus,  were  shown 
in  the  days  of  Pausanias  (i.  22,  2),  and 
the  tree  in  Crete,  under  which  Zeus 
and  Europa  dallied,  was  a  lion  in  the 
time  of  Theophrastus  (Hist.  Plant,  i.  9). 


Ronda  Sf  Granada, 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA. 


315 


Behind  these  cypresses  is  a  raised 
garden y  with  flights  of  Italian  steps, 
perforated  with  fountains ;  ascending 
are  some  remains  of  Moorish  tanks,  and 
among  them  the  well-built  Algxbe  de 
la  Lluvia,  about  which  the  guides  tell  a 
stupid  story  of  Don  John  of  Austria's 
thirsty  troops  :  the  palace  of  jLos  AUx- 
cures,  which  stood  above,  has  disap- 
peared ;  indeed,  whatever  escaped  the 
Spaniard  has  been  swept  away  by  the 
Gaul.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  kno]I 
called  the  Moor's  chair,  la  Silla  del 
MoTo ;  here  are  the  ruins  of  a  Moorish 
building  and  of  the  Spanish  chapel 
of  Santa  Elena,  which  Sebastiani's 
ravagers  clambered  up  to  overturn: 
the  view  is  splendid  ;  that,  thank  God ! 
never  can  be  defiled  or  destroyed.  Re- 
turn to  Granada  by  the  Generalife  and 
the  cypress  avenue ;  thence,  over  an 
unirrigated  and  therefore  tawny  waste, 
to  the  Campo  Santo  or  burial-ground. 
This  truly  miserable  place  is  a  true 
thing  of  Spain — a  land  without  taste  or 
tenderness.  Those  who  dislike  ceme- 
teries may,  on  leaving  the  Generalife 
avenue,  turn  to  the  rt.  by  the  public 
gardens  to  the  site  of  the  convent  de 
Jos  Martires, 

The  curious  Mazmorras  on  the 
platform  have  been  filled  up;  these 
artificial  excavations  are  remnants  of 
the  Moor,  the  modem  Moorish  term 
is  metamor ;  maimorra  in  Arabic 
means  "  a  prison,"  for,  like  the  Xaxxai 
of  the  Athenians,  herein  were  guarded 
either  com  or  convicts.  The  dun- 
geons of  the  Inquisition  at  Seville 
were  called  Mazmorras,  These  grana- 
ries were  invented  in  Egypt.  Such 
were  the  "  storehouses"  of  Joseph 
(Gen.  xli.  56).  The  use  of  them  passed 
thence  into  Thrace,  Africa,  and  Spain. 
Consult  Pliny,  *  N.  H.'  xviii.  30,  and 
Varro,  *  R.  R.*  i.  57.  In  these,  Stfros, 
Zti^tfvf,  grain  was  preserved  for  more 
than  50  years,  and  they  were  admirably 
contrived  for  concealment  during  the 
forays  of  invaders  (Hirt.  *  Bell.  Afr.' 
65).  At  Burjasot,  near  Valencia,  they 
are  still  called  Silos,  probably  a  cor- 
raption  of  the  ancient  name,  since 
Scilo  in  Basque  si^ifies  an  "  excava- 
tion ;"  they  are  lined  with  a  cement, 
like  the  Moorish  water-tanks. 


The  convent  de  los  Martires,  where 
bishop  Pedro  Gonzalo  was  martyrised 
in  1456,  and  the  first  chapel  built  by 
the  Catholic  kings,  has  been  seques- 
tered, and  is  pulled  down  for  the  sake 
of  its  materials.  The  garden,  with 
its  little  aqueduct,  is  pretty.  Next 
visit  the  barranco  or  ravine  behind  it, 
where  gipsies  live  in  troglodyte  bur- 
rows, amid  aloes  and  prickly  pears. 
The  dark  daughters  of  Moultan  sit  in 
their  rags  under  their  vines,  while 
their  elfin  brats  beg  of  a  stranger  an 
ochavico.  Hence  to  the  Campo  del 
Principe — the  parish  ch.  of  San  Ce- 
cilio  is  said  to  have  been  a  Mosarabic 
and  has  the  privilege  of  ringing  its 
bell  on  Good  Friday,  when  all  other 
belfries  are  mute,  and  so  on  to  the 
fine  convent,  Santo  Domingo^  which 
now  serves  for  the  Museo.  The  noble 
facade  is  by  Diego  de  Siloe.  The  in- 
terior chapel  is  all  frippery,  and  the 
altar  del  Rosario  of  outrageous  chuni- 
gueresque;  the  collection  of  pictures 
are  unmitigated  rubbish.  Granada  never 
had  much  fine  art,  and  all  the  best  dis- 
appeared during  the  invasion  and  re- 
forms. Sebastian!  got  the  lion's  share. 
He  employed  Argote  as  his  jackal,  from 
whose  mouth  we  had  the  details  of  his 
doings  as  duly  recorded  in  our  previous 
editions.  Among  the  least  bad  pictures 
now  here  are  the  portraits  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella  by  Antonio  Mincon— the 
Mabuse  of  Spain.  These  probably  are 
the  identical  pictures  alluded  to  by  Cean 
Bermudez  (Die.  iv.  198).  There  are 
also  specimens  of  the  conceited  second 
rate  Atanasio  Bocanegra,  and  a  parcel  of 
San  Branos  and  Carthusians  by  J, 
Sanchez  Cotan.  Observe  the  portable 
altar  from  the  St.  Jerome  Convent,  with 
6  fine  enamels  on  copper,  in  the  style 
of  Jean  Penicaud  of  Limoges,  unfortu- 
nately Ihe  original  mounting  has  been 
destroyed.  Notice  also  some  carving  by 
Mora  and  Risuefio,  pupils  of  Cano.  The 
works  of  this  chief  of  the  Granada  school 
have  been  so  effectually  "  removed" 
by  Sebastiani  and  Co.,  that  were  it 
not  for  the  cathedral  he  would  scarcely 
be  represented  in  the  very  city  on 
which  he  lavished  his  talents.  Next 
visit  the  convent  gardens,  and  espe- 
cially the   Quarto  Meal,  which  was  a 

p  2 


316 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA — THE  DARRO. 


Sect.  III. 


royal  Moorish  villa.  The  approach  is 
under  a  high  embowered  archway  of 
bays  and  enormous  myrtles.  Observe 
the  saloons  and  the  Azulejo,  with  Cufic 
inscriptions  in  green,  white,  and  blue. 
The  white  tiles  with  golden  scrolls 
occur  nowhere  else.  The  painted 
Tarh.ish  was  whitewashed  by  the 
French;  this  garden  was  called  by 
the  Moors  Almanjara,  and  the  suburb 
Vib-(d  Fajarin.  It  was  ceded,  April  5, 
1492,  to  Alonso  de  Valiza,  prior  of 
Santa  Cruz,  of  Avila.  Of  the  two 
gardens,  the  larger  belonged  to  Dala- 
horra,  mother  of  Muley  Hacen,  and 
the  smaller,  which,  in  1615,  was  built 
over  by  the  monks,  to  the  Alcalde 
Mofarax.  The  original  deed  was 
copied  into  the  Libro  Becerro  of  the 
convent,  from  which  we  made  an  ab- 
stract. The  "  livery  of  seisin "  was 
thus :— Don  Alonso  entered  the  garden 
pavilion,  affirming  loudly  that  he  took 
possession  ;  next  he  opened  and  shut 
the  door,  giving  the  key  to  Macafreto, 
a  well-known  householder  of  Granada ; 
he  then  went  into  the  garden,  cut  off 
a  bit  of  a  tree  with  his  knife,  and  dug 
up  some  earth  with  his  spade.  Such  was 
the  practice  of  Moorish  conveyancers. 

Passing  out  by  the  Fuerta  del  Pes- 
cado  is  a  Moorish  gateway  with  3 
arches.  Return  now  to  the  CampillOy 
the  "  little  field,"  or  space,  opposite  the 
inn,  and  the  site  of  the  monument  to 
the  unfortunate  Maria  Pineda  and  the 
actor  Isidoro  Maiquez;  tragedy  and 
farce.  The  theatre  is  tolerable,  and 
was  built  by  the  French,  who,  to  en- 
large this  place,  took  down  a  portion  of 
the  Moorish  citadel.  El  Bibautmibin, 
which  was  formerly  surrounded  by 
walls  and  towers  ;  one  tower  still  exists 
below  Fonda  del  Comercio,  imbedded 
in  a  modern  barrack,  the  portal  of 
which  is  churrigueresque,  and  worthily 
guarded  by  statues  of  Hogarth -like 
grenadiers.  Here  is  the  Varrera  del 
Darro,  or  public  walk,  with  planted 
avenues,  which  communicates  with  the 
Alameda  on  the  Xenil,  and  is  much 
frequented  in  the  mornings  of  winter, 
and  the  evenings  of  summer. 

The  Darro  rises  from  the  hill  of 

myrtles  near  Huetor,  and  approaches 

^  Granada  under  the  Monte  Sacro,  a  hill  so 


called  from  the  finding  certain  sacred 
bones  and  relics,  to  which  are  attri- 
buted the  sweetness  and  fertilizing 
quality  of  the  stream.  The  walks  on 
both  sides  of  this  swift  arrowy  Darro 
up  this  hill  are  delicious :  the  stream 
gambols  down  the  defile ;  hence  its 
Arabic  name  Hddaroh,  from  Hadar, 
"  rapidity  in  flowing."  The  Romans 
called  the  river  SaUm,  Gold  is  found 
in  the  bed ;  whence  some  wiseacres, 
catching  at  sound,  have  derived  the 
name  I&ro,  "  quasi  dot  aurum ;"  and 
in  1526  a  crown  was  given  to  Isabel, 
wife  of  Charles  V.,  made  from  diminute 
nuggets  found  in  this  Pactolus.  Here 
amphibious  gold-fishers  still  puddle  in 
the  eddies,  earning  a  hard  and  miser- 
able livelihood  in  groping  for  poor 
diggings ;  nugse  difficiles.  The  gorge 
through  which  it  flows  under  the 
Generalife  was  the  Baxariz,  or  "  Gar- 
den of  Recreation,"  of  the  Moors,  and 
was  studded  with  villas.  The  Darro, 
after  washing  the  base  of  the  Alham- 
bra,  flows  under  the  Plaza  nueva,  being 
arched  over,  and  when  swelled  by 
rains,  there  is  always  much  risk  of  its 
blowing  up  this  covering.  Such,  says 
the  Seguidilla,  is  the  portion  which 
Darro  will  bear  to  his  bride  the  Xenil. 

•'  Darro  tiene  prometidOf 
El  catane  con  Xenil, 
Tleha  de  Uevar  en  dote 
Plaza  mieva  y  2kuxUin" 

The  Moorish  Zacatin — Arabic^  Zacca; 
streets,  passages — is  as  antique  as  the 
Spanish  Plaza  nueva  is  modem.  In 
summer  it  is  covered  with  an  awning, 
a  toldo,  which  gives  a  cool  and  tenty 
look.  Go,  without  fail,  ye  artists,  to 
the  back  part,  the  respaldos,  and  sketch 
the  Prout-like  houses  and  toppling 
balconies,  so  old  that  they  seem 
only  not  to  fall.  Here  is  every  form 
and  colour  of  picturesc^ue  poverty ; 
vines  clamber  up  the  irregularities, 
while  below  naiads  dabble,  washing 
their  red  and  yellow  garments  in  the 
all-gilding  glorious  sunbeams.  The 
Darro  reappears  at  the  end  of  its  career 
at  the  "  Carrera,**  and  then  marries 
itsdf  to  the  Xenil.  This — the  Singilis 
of  the  Romans,  the  Shmgil  of  the  Moor 
— flows  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  through 
a  most  alpine  country.    The  waters. 


Ronda  Sf  Graiiada,      route  25. — graxada — the  xenil. 


317 


composed  of  melted  snow,  are  un- 
wholesome, as,  indeed,  are  most  of 
those  of  Granada,  which  have  a  pur- 
gative tendency.  The  Moorish  poets, 
who  saw  in  the  Xenil  the  life-blood  of 
the  Vega,  the  element  of  wealth,  com- 
pared its  waters  to  "  melted  gold  flow- 
ing between  emerald  banks."  "  What 
has  Cairo  to  boast  of  with  her  Nile, 
since  Granada  has  a  tho'.isand  Niles  ?'* 
The  letter  she,  sheen,  has  the  numerical 
value  of  a  thousand ;  hence  the  play  on 
the  name  Xenil. 

The  artist  will,  of  course,  trace  this 
Xenil  up  to  its  glacier  sources,  from 
whence  it  gushes,  pure,  cold,  and 
chaste.  Far  from  cities,  and  free  from 
their  drains  and  pollutions,  the  waters 
descend  through  a  bosom  of  beauty, 
jealously  detained  at  every  step  by 
some  garden,  which  wooes  its  embrace, 
and  drains  off  its  affection.  The  fickle 
impatient  stream,  fretted  at  every  stone 
which  opposes  its  escape,  enters  Gra- 
nada under  the  Ant^querula,  and  is 
crossed  by  a  bridge  built  by  Sebastiani, 
who,  laid  out  a  botanical  garden  on  the 
banks,  which  the  Spaniards  destroyed 
on  his  departure,  carrying  their  Iberian 
hatred  and  vengeance  from  persons  to 
things  and  even  benefits.  The  Salon, 
or  fine  walk,  was  much  improved  in 
1826  by  Gen.  Gampana.  The  Bomba 
fountain  is  vastly  admired  by  the 
n^ttives,  but  the  other  sculptural  deco- 
rations are  in  the  vilest  art:  never 
were  pomegranates  worse  imitated  than 
in  this  town  of  Granada,  which  teems 
with  real  models,  and  once  was  cele- 
brated for  its  Alonso  Canos  and  carvers. 
The  beauty  and  fashion  of  Granada 
congregate  on  this  Alameda,  which  is 
constantly  injured  by  overfloodin^. 
The  Xenil  and  Darro  unite  below  it, 
and,  after  cleansing  the  town  of  its 
sewers,  are  **  sangrado,**  or  drained, 
themselves  for  the  irrigation  of  the 
Vega.  The  Xenil,  soon  increased  by 
infinite  mountain  tributaries,  unites, 
a  noble  stream,  with  the  Guadalquivir, 
near  Ecija.  The  grand  fSte  on  this 
Alameda  is  St.  John's  Eve,  when  at  12 
o'clock,  at  the  cry  of  las  doce,  all  rush 
into  the  Xenil  to  wash  their  faces  and 
thus  ensure  good  complexions. 

There  is  not  much  else  to  be  seen  in 


Granada.  Walk  up  the  Carrera  del 
Darro,  to  the  celebrated  Plaza  de  Vi- 
hiramhla,  the  "  gate  of  the  river:"  the 
Moorish  arch  struggles  amid  modern 
additions,  incongruous  but  not  unpic- 
turesque.  The  old  gate  is  called  de  las 
orejas,  because  at  a  festival  in  1621 
the  mob  tore  off  the  ears  of  many 
ladies  to  get  the  rings;  formerly  it 
was  called  de  los  cuchillos,  because  here 
the  police  stuck  up  the  dagger-knives 
found  on  rogues ;  the  modem  gate  is 
called  de  las  cucharras,  of  the  spoons  : 
pleasant  and  poetical  nomenclature  t 
The  quaint  Moorish  Plaza  was  con- 
verted by  the  Spaniards  into  a  market- 
place :  one  row  of  old  Moorish  houses, 
with  squarish  windows,  remained  on 
the  N.  side,  so  lately  as  1843,  when 
they  were  pulled  down  by  one  Ramon 
Crook,  and  the  present  buildings  in  the 
Baker-street  style  erected.  This  is  the 
square  so  famous  in  ballad  song  for  the 
Caiias,  or  the  Jereed,  and  the  bull- 
fightings  of  Gazul.  Here  the  pageantry 
01  Pasos  and  Corpus  Christi  are  dis- 
played ;  the  members  of  the  Ayunta- 
miento  looking  on  from  their  appro- 
priate Casns  de  los  Miradores.  Recently 
this  place  has  been  "  lighted  and  im- 
proved," whereby  its  Moorish  charac- 
ter and  ballad  interest  is  mined  and 
all  the  associations  put  to  flight  by  the 
prose  of  commonplace  civilisation. 
On  market-days  sorts  of  booths  and 
stalls  are  put  up,  much  like  the  tents 
of  an  Arab  Douar.  The  fruit  is  very 
fine,  especially  the  grapes,  figs,  and 
melons:  the  latter  are  piled  in  heaps 
like  cannon-shot;  few,  however,  of 
the  arsenals  of  Spain  can  vie  with 
this  supply  of  natural  artillery.  The 
figs  pass  all  praise,  from  the  fleshy 
purple  Breba  to  the  small  greengage- 
looking  later  fruit.  The  Breba  or 
early  fig  is  here,  as  in  the  East,  thought 
unwholesome,  and  leading  to  bad  con- 
sequences (Hosea  ix.  10);  by  which 
few  transpyrenean  travellers  seem  to  be 
deterred.  Keeping  along  the  1.  side, 
enter  the  Pesoaderia;  the  old  wooden 
balconies  will  delight  the  artistical  eye 
as  much  as  the  ancient  fish-like  smell 
of  the  shambles  will  offend  the  nose. 
To  the  N.  of  the  Plaza  is  the  palace  of 
the  archbishop,  whose  sermons  Gil  Bla« 


318 


ROUTE  25  — GRANADA — THE  CATHEDRAL. 


Sect  III. 


was  simple  enough  to  criticise.  The 
irregular  pile  has  been  modernised,  and 
contains  nothing  remarkable.  The 
cathedral  adjoins  it,  and  was  built  on 
the  site  of  the  great  mosque,  when  the 
eothic  style  was  going  out  of  fashion. 
ft  is  by  no  means  a  fine  building,  al- 
though the  Granidinos  think  it  a  rival 
to  St.  Peter's.  Walk  round  it;  it  is 
blocked  up  by  mean  houses  and  streets ; 
the  open  W.  front  is  unfinished,  while 
the  heavy  N.  tower,  of  Doric,  Ionic, 
and  Corinthian  orders,  wants  the  upper 
story ;  and  the  other,  which  was  to 
have  been  its  companion,  is  not  even 
begun.  The  lover  of  Cano  will  visit 
his  obrador  in  the  tower.  The  grand 
entrance  is  divided  by  3  lofty  lancet 
recesses,  broken  by  circular  windows ; 
the  cornice  is  crowned  with  pyramidi- 
cal  vases.  The  facade  is,  moreover, 
paganised  with  grinning  masks,  rams' 
horns,  and  unfinished  festoons.  All 
this  vile  sculpture  is  by  local  artists, 
the  twins  de  Rojas,  de  U ceda,  Risueno, 
and  others  not  worth  naming..  The 
market-groups  all  around  are  much 
better  worth  the  painter's  notice. 

Walking  to  the  rt.,  you  pass  the 
plateresque  front  of  the  archbishop's 
palace,  a  cciaa  de  ratoneji,  although  Le 
^  Sage,  who  never  was  in  Spain,  describes 
it  as  rivalling  a  king's  palace  in  mag- 
nificence. There  are  a  good  many 
very  bad  pictures  inside.  Close  ad- 
joining is  the  Sagrario.  Then  rises 
the  royal  chapel,  of  the  rich  Gothic  of 
1510.  The  Berruguete  doorway  is 
later,  and  was  built  by  Charles  V. 
Observe  the  "  St.  John,"  the  patron  of 
the  Catholic  sovereigns.  Thus,  their 
eldest  son  was  called  Juan,  their 
daughter  Juana,  so  the  apostolic  eagle 
was  their  armorial  supporter,  and  their 
convents  were  dedicated  to  San  Juan 
de  los  Reifes  as  their  royal  apostle. 

The  Casas  del  CabUdo  opposite  are 
in  outrageous  churrigueresque :  observe 
a  truncated  Roman  pillar,  inscribed 
"  FurisB  Sabinae."  The  once  exquisite 
old  Gothic  house  in  the  Calle  de  la 
Mesa  Eedonda  was  recently  modernised 
W  a  modern  Goth  named  Heredia. 
Turning  to  the  1.,  enter  the  Calle  de 
la  Carcely  "  the  prison-street ;"  the 
aunt  unshorn  inmates  of  the  house, 


whence  this  name,  quickly  will  smell 
a  stranger,  and  yell  from  behind  the 
grating  for  charity  and  food  like  wild 
beasts  who  have  not  been  fed.  Opposite 
is  the  Puerta  del  Perdon,  an  unfinished 
cinque-cento  plateresque  portal  of  the 
time  of  Charles  V.,  by  Diego  de  Siloe. 

Entering  the  cathedral  at  the  W., 
the  glaring  whitewash  is  most  offen- 
sive :  this  iniquity  was  perpetrated 
in  order  to  please  Philip  V.  Two  door- 
ways, one  of  the  Sala  Capitular  and 
that  opposite,  are  left  undefiled,  and 
shame,  with  their  sober,  creamy  tone, 
the  cold  glare  around.  The  cathedral 
was  built  in  the  pagan  Grseco-Romano 
style,  just  when  the  Christian  Gothic 
was  going  out  of  fashion.  It  was  begun 
March  15, 1529,  from  designs  of  Diego 
de  Siloe,  in  the  Corinthian  order,  but 
without  good  proportion,  either  in 
height  or  width.  The  groined  roof  of 
the  five  naves  is  supported  by  piers 
composed  of  four  Corinthian  pillars 
placed  back  to  back,  and  on  dispropor- 
tioned  pedestals.  The  coro,  as  usual, 
occupies  the  heart  of  the  centre  nave ; 
the  tra^coro  is  churrigueresque,  and 
made  up  of  red  marble,  with  black 
knobs  and  white  statues ;  those  at  the 
corners,  of  heroes  and  heroines  in 
Louis  XIV.  periwigs,  were  placed  there 
to  gratify  Philip  V.  The  organ  is  plas- 
tered with  gilding.  The  white  and  grey 
marble  pavement  is  handsome :  the  £. 
end  is  circular :  the  high  altar  is  iso- 
lated and  girdled  by  an  architectural 
frame.  The  admirable  Cimhorio  rises 
220  ft. :  observe  the  noble  arch,  190  ft. 
high,  which  opens  to  the  coro. 

The  dome  is  painted  in  white  and 
gold.  The  effigies  of  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  kneel  at  the  sides  of  the  high 
altar :  above  and  let  into  circular  re- 
cesses are  the  colossal  heads  by  Adam 
and  Eve,  carved  and  painted  by  Alonso 
Cano ;  by  him  also  are  the  seven  grand 
pictures  relating  to  the  Virgin,  whose 
temple  this  is.  They  are  her  "  Annun- 
ciation," "  Conception,"  "  Nativity," 
"  Presentation,"  "  Visitation,"  "  Puri- 
fication," and  "  Ascension."  They  can 
be  closely  examined  from  an  upper 
gallery,  but  then  they  seem  very 
coarsely  painted,  because  destined  :to 
be  eeen  from  below,  and  at  a  distance. 


Honda  Sf  Granada,     route  25. — granada. — cathedral. 


319 


Cano  (1601,  ob.  1667)  was  the  minor 
canon,  or  Racionero^  of  this  cathedral, 
which  he  has  enriched  with  the  works 
of  his  chisel  and  brush,  and  under  its 
quire  he  lies  buried.    Observe  by  him 
an    exquisitely   carved  "  Virgin  and 
Child,"  once  placed  at  the  top  of  the 
Facistol  in  the  coro,  but  recently  re- 
moved for  safety  to  the  altar  of  Jesus 
Nazateno,  a  precaution  not  unneces- 
sary, as  the  San  Pablo  by  Ribera  was 
stolen  in  1842 :  the  child  is  inferior, 
and    possibly  by  another  hand.    By 
him  in  the  Capilla  de  la  Santa  Cruz 
are  the  heads  of  St.  John  the  Baptist, 
full  of  death,  and  of  St.  Paul,  full  of 
spirit ;  being  of  the  natural  size,  they, 
however,  look  too  much  like  anatomical 
preparations :  the  essence  of  sculpture 
is  form,  and,  when  colour  is  added,  it 
is  attempting  too  much,  and  we  miss 
the  one  thing  wanting — life.    Over  the 
door  of  the  Sala  Capitular  is  a  "  Cha- 
rity,"   by  Torrigiano,  executed  as  a 
sample  of  his  tsJent  when  he  came  to 
Granada  to  compete  for  the  "  Sepulchre 
of  the  Catholic  Sovereigns:"   it  is  a 
Michael- Angelesque  picture  in  marble. 
Among  the  paintings  observe,  in  the 
Capilla  de  l-a  Trinidad  and  Jesus  Na- 
zarenoj  three  by  Ribera — St.  Anthony, 
St.  Jerome,  and  St.  Lawrence ;   four 
by  Cano,  and  not  very  fine — a  Saviour 
bearing   his   Cross,  St.  Augustine,  a 
Virgin,  and  a  Trinidad,  the  Father 
bearing    the    Dead    Son :    the    large 
pictures  in  the  transept  are  by  Pedro 
Atanasio  Bocanegra,  a  disciple  of  Cano, 
who  exaggerated  one  defect   of   his 
master — the  smallnsss  of  the  heels  of 
children.    Bocanegra  was  a  vain  man, 
and  painted    pictures  larger   in   size 
than  in  merit.    Observe,  however,  the 
"  Virgin  and  San  Bernardo "  and  the 
"  Scourging." 

In  the  Capilla  de  San  Miguel,  the 
first  to  the  rt.  on  entering,  is  a  fine 
melancholy  Cano,  called  "  La  Virgen 
de  la  Soledad"  which  recalls  the  statue 
of  Becerra  in  the  %n  Isidro  at  Madrid, 
and  is  indeed  the  type  of  this  subject. 
This  chapel  was  decorated  with  mar- 
bles, in  1804,  by  Archbishop  Juan 
Manuel  Moscoso  y  Peralta,  and  finished 
in  the  fatal  1808.  One  of  the  best  of 
Spain's  great  prelates,  this  good  man 


expended  his  large  private  fortune  in 
works  of  piety  and  beneficence.  He 
was  brutally  treated  by  Sebastiani,  who 
"  removed "  his  fine  pictures  and 
melted  his  superb  gold  custodia;  but 
fortunately  his  magnificence  in  this 
chapel  was  not  wholly  displayed  in 
metallics  of  value  to  melt.  The  single 
slab  of  the  altar  was  brought  from 
Macael :  the  red  marbles  came  from 
Luque :  the  four  serpentine  pillars  from 
the  Baranco  de  San  Juan  (see  p.  328). 
The  geologist  will  also  remark,  in  the 
Capuht  de  la  Virgen  del  Pilar,  which 
is  exactly  opposite  that  of  San  Miguel, 
some  singular  pillars  brought  from 
Loja  by  Archbishop  Galvan.  This 
chapel  is  much  frequented  by  true  be- 
lievers from  its  multitude  of  indul- 
gences and  privileges. 

Behind  the  equestrian  figqre  of 
Santiago,  and  too  high  up  to  be  well 
seen,  is  a  Florentine  copy  of  a  Vir^n 
and  Child,  painted  by  St.  Luke,  which 
was  given  to  Isabella  by  Innocent  VIII., 
and  before  which  mass  is  said  every 
January  2nd,  the  day  of  the  conquest 
of  Granada,  when  it  is  lowered  for 
public  adoration.  In  the  Capilla  de  la 
Antigua,  so  called  from  the  Image 
found  in  a  cave,  and  used  by  Ferdinand 
as  a  battle  banner,  are  two  curious 
portraits  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 
copied  by  Juan  de  Sevilla  after  Rincon ; 
the  light  is  bad,  and  these  historical 
gems  are  sadly  neglected,  that  of  the 
king  having  a  hole  in  it.  They  are 
represented  kneeling  at  prayers  under 
rich  canopies ;  the  king  is  clad  in 
armour,  the  queen  in  a  blue  and  mo- 
roon  cloak.  Reds  are  the  prevalent 
colours,  and  the  style  is  Venetian. 
The  image  of  the  Virgin  itself  is 
very  sacred :  of  the  time  of  the  Goths, 
it  revealed  itself  miraculously^  at  Avila, 
and  was  brought  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  to  the  siege  of  Granada,  and  set 
up  at  San  Sebastian,  to  whom  Mar- 
shal Sebastiani  was  no  kinsman.  In 
the  detached  Sacristia  is  a  charming 
"  Concepdon**  carved  by  Cano,  with  his 
peculiar  delicate  hands,  small  mouth, 
full  eyes,  and  serious  expression ;  also 
by  him,  in  the  Oratorio,  is  a  "  Virgin" 
in  blue  drapery,  and  very  dignified, 
also  a  Crucifix  by  Becerra. 


320 


ROUTE  25. GRANADA — CAPILLA  DE  LOS  REYES.         Sect.  III. 


The  Capilla  de  los  Beyes,  placed 
between  the  Sagrario  and  Sacristiay 
is  the  gem  of  the  cathedral.  The 
rich  Gothic  portal,  having  escaped  the 
Bourbon  whitewash,  contrasts  with 
the  glare  around.  It  is  elaborately 
wrought  with  emblems  of  heraldic 
pride  and  religious  humility.  The  in- 
terior is  impressive  ;  silence  reigns  in 
this  chamber  of  the  dead,  and  accords 
with  the  tender  sentiment  which  the 
solemn  Gothic  peculiarly  inspires. 

This  royal  chapel,  like  that  of  St. 
Ferdinand  at  Seville,  is  independent  of 
the  cathedral,  and  has  its  separate 
chapter  and  chaplains,  and  is  divided 
into  two  portions.  The  Coro  alto  is 
adorned  with  the  shields  and  badges  of 
the  Catholic  sovereigns.  The  superb 
Beja,  of  iron,  partly  gilt,  was  made,  in 
1522,  by  el  Maestre  Bartolom^,  whose 
name  is  near  the  keyhole. 

On  each  side  of  the  high  altar 
kneel  carved  effigies  of  the  king  and 
queen,  which  are  very  remarkable, 
being  exact  representations  of  their 
faces,  forms,  and  costumed :  behind 
Ferdinand  is  the  victorious  banner  of 
Castile,  while  the  absorbing  policy  for 
which  both  lived  and  died — the  cou- 
quest  of  the  Moor  and  the  conversion  of 
the  infidel — are  embodied  behind  them 
in  singular  painted  carvings;  these 
have  been  attributed  to  Felipe  Vigarny, 
and  are  certainly  of  the  highest  anti- 
quarian interest.  In  that  which  repre- 
sents the  surrender  of  the  Alhambra, 
Isabella,  on  a  white  palfrey,  rides  be- 
tween Ferdinand  and  third  king,  "  the 
great  cardinal  '*  Mendoza ;  he  sits  on 
his  trapped  mule,  like  Wolsey,  and 
alone  wears  gloves  ;  his  pinched  aqui- 
line face  contrasts  with  the  chubbiness 
of  the  king  and  queen.  He  opens  his 
hand  to  receive  the  key,  which  the 
dismounted  Boabdil  presents,  holding 
it  by  the  wards.  Behind  are  ladies, 
knights, -and  halberdiers,  while  cap- 
tives come  out  from  the  gates  in  pairs. 
Few  things  of  the  kind  in  Spain  can 
be  more  curious.  The  other  basso-re- 
lievo records  the  "  Conversion  of  the 
Infidel."  The  reluctant  flock  is  bap- 
tised in  the  wholesale  by  shorn  monks. 
Observe  the  costumes :  the  mufflers 
and  leg-wrappers  of  the  women — the 


"RomdkTi  fascia — are  precisely  those  still 
worn  at  Tetuan  by  their  descendants, 
who  thus,  as  Orientals  do  not  change 
stockings  or  fashions,  corroborate  the 
truth  of  these  monuments. 

In  the  centre  of  the  chapel  are  two 
magnificent  sepulchres,  wrought,  so 
it  is  said,  at  Genoa  by  Peralta,  in  de- 
licate alabaster ;  on  these  are  extended 
the  marble  figures  of  the  Catholic 
sovereigns,  and  those  of  their  next 
successors.  Ferdinand  and  Isabella 
slumber  side  by  side,  life's  fitful 
fever  o*er,  in  the  peaceful  attitude  of 
their  long  and  happy  union ;  they  con- 
trast, the  ruling  passion  strong  in 
death,  with  the  averted  countenances 
of  Juana,  their  weak  daughter,  and 
Philip,  her  handsome  but  worthless 
husband.  Observe  carefully  the  de- 
tails of  these  umas  and  the  ornaments : 
in  that  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  the 
four  doctors  of  the  church  are  at  the 
comers,  with  the  twelve  apostles  at  the 
sides  :  Ferdinand  wears  the  Garter, 
Isabella  the  Cross  of  Santiago.  Their 
faces  are  portraits:  their  costume  is 
very  simple.  Analogous  is  the  uma 
of  Philip  of  Burgundy  and  Juana  la 
Loca  —  crazy  Jane.  They  are  both 
gorgeously  attired :  he  wears  the 
^Golden  Fleece.  The  decorations  are 
cinque-cento,  and  some  of  the  sculp- 
tured children  are  quite  Raphaelesque. 

These  royal  sepulchres  are  superb. 

The  statue  of  Isabella  is  admirable ; 

her  smile  is  as  cold  and  her  look  is  as 

placid,  as  moonlight  sleeping  on  snow : 

*•  in  questa  forma 

Passa  la  bella  donna  e  par  che  dorma." 

She  died  indeed  far  from  Granada,  but 
desired  to  be  buried  here,  in  the 
brightest  pearl  of  her  crown.  The 
sentiment  is  truly  touching,  and  the 
effect  aimed  at  is  fully  produced :  the 
subject  is  the  Christian's  death,  who, 
stretched  on  the  tomb,  has  yet  the 
hope  of  another  and  a  better  life.  Isa- 
bella was  the  Elizabeth  of  Sjpain,  the 
brightest  star  of  an  age  which  pro- 
duced Ximenez,  Columbus,  and  the 
Great  Captain,  all  of  whom  rose  to 
full  growth  under  her  smile,  and 
withered  at  her  death.  She  is  one  of 
the  most  faultless  characters  in  his- 
toi*y,  one  of  the  purest  sovereigns  who 


Ronda  Sf  Granada,     route  26. — tombs  of  reyes  catolicos. 


321 


ever  graced  or  dignified  a  throne,  who, 
**  in  all  her  relations  of  queen  or  wo- 
man/* was,  in  the  words  of  Lord  Ba- 
con, "  an  honour  to  her  sex  and  the 
comer-stone  of  the  greatness  of  Spain." 
For  the  true  character  of  the  Ca- 
tholic sovereigns  consult  Prescott's 
excellent  work,  or  Shakspere,  who, 
understanding  human  character  by  in- 
tuition, thus  jiistly  describes  Ferdi- 
nand:— "  The  v:isest  king  that  ever 
ruled  in  Spain:"  and  makes  Henry 
VIII.,  when  describing  the  virtues  of 
his  ill-fated  Katherine,  thus  portray 
her  mother  Isabella : — 

"  If  thy  rare  qualities,  sweet  gentleness, 
Thy  meekness,  saintrlike,    wife-like  govern- 
ment, 
Obeying  in  commanding,  and  thy  parts 
Sovereign  and  pious,  else  could  speak  thee  out 
The  Qiieen  of  earthly  Queens  /" 

Next  descend  into  their  last  resting- 
place  ;  a  low  door — mind  your  head  — 
leads  down  to  the  vault,  a  small  space, 
as  Charles  V.  said,  for  so  much  great- 
ness. The  royal  coffins  are  rude  and 
misshapen,  plain  and  iron«girt;  they 
would  shock  Mr.  Banting,  but  they 
are  genuine  and  have  never  been 
rifled  by  Gaul  or  Ghoul,  like  those  of 
Leon  and  elsewhere.  The  ashes  of 
the  royal  conqueror  have  never  been 
insulted,  nor  have  the  "  dead  been  un- 
plumbed  to  furnish  missiles  of  death 
against  the  living."  The  letter  F. 
marks  that  of  Ferdinand.  The  reli^o 
loci  and  sepulchral  character  is  in- 
jured by  some  modern  churrigueresque 
stucco-work. 

Thus  the  earthly  remains  of  pru- 
dence, valour,  and  ^iety  moulder 
alongside  of  those  of  vice,  imbecility, 
and  despair.  These  sad  relics  of  de- 
parted majesty,  silent  witnesses  of  long 
bygone  days,  connect  the  spectator 
with  the  busy  period  which,  height- 
ened by  the  present  decay  of  Spain, 
appears  in  the  *'  dark  backwanl  of 
time"  to  be  rather  some  abstract 
dream  of  romance,  than  a  chapter  of 
sober  history;  but  these  coffins  make 
the  past  and  present  real ;  and  every- 
thing at  Granada,  art  and  nature  alike 
— the  Alhambra,  the  battle-field  Vega, 
the  snowy  Sierra,  towering  above, 
more  lofty  and  enduring  than  the  py-  \ 


ramids — form  the  common  monuments 
and  the  best  histories  of  these,  the  true 
founders  of  their  country's  shortlived 
greatness.  Then  it  was,  in  the  words  of 
an  eye-witness,  "  that  Spain  spread  her 
wings  over  a  wider  sweep  of  empire, 
and  extended  her  name  of  glory  to  the 
far  antipodes."  Then  it  was  that  her 
flag,  on  which  the  sun  never  set,  was 
unfolded,  to  the  wonder  and  terror  of 
Europe,  while  a  new  world,  bound- 
less and  richer  than  the  dreams  of 
avarice,  was  cast  into  her  lap,  disco- 
vered at  the  very  moment  when  the 
old  world  was  becoming  too  confined 
for  the  outgrowth  of  the  awakened 
intellect,  enterprise,  and  ambitkui  of 
mankind. 

Among  other  relics  which  are,§liown 
in  the  sacristia  of  this  chap^,  and 
which  were  bequeathed  by  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  are  the  identical  royal 
standards  used  at  the  conquest,  and 
the  sword  of  the  king  ;  observe  its  sin- 
^lar  semicircular  ^ard:  alsp  a  plain 
silver-gilt  crown,  a  Gothic  cross,  two 
pixes  (one  Gothic),  an  exquisite  ena- 
melled virilj  one  of  the  finest  things  of 
the  kind  in  Spain,  and  the  queen's  own 
"  missal,"  which  is  placed  on  the  high 
altar  on  the  anniversary  of  the  con- 
quest: it  was  finished  by  Francisco 
Florez  on  Monday,  July  18,  1496:  it 
contains  690  pages :  one  of  the  best  of 
the  illuminations  is  the  "  Crucifixion," 
p.  313.  Observe  also  a  chasuble  em- 
broidered by  Isabella,  a  small  "  Adora- 
tion  of  the  Kings,"  by  Hemling  of  •. 
Bruges,  and  in  a  chapel  to  the  rt.  a 
singularly  ancient  picture,  probably  of 
Fernando  Gallegos,  the  Van  Eyk  of 
Spain :  the  centre,  the  "  Descent  from 
the  Cross,"  has  been  mutilated  by  chap>' 
ter  barbarians,  who  have  driven  nails 
in  it  to  support  a  crucifix.  A  darkish 
passage  connects  this  royal  chapel 
with  the  SagrariOf  which  was  the  ori- 
ginal mosque ;  and  now  is  a  lumber- 
room  !  here  is  hung  the  portrait  of 
Heman  Perez  del  Pulgar  (1451,  1531), 
El  de  las  hazanas,  and  the  knight  who, 
daring  the  siege,  rode  into  Granada, 
and  affixed  a  taper  and  the  "  Ave  Ma- 
ria "  on  the  doors  of  this  mosque,  thus 
consecrating  it,  as  it  were,  to  her,  a 
feat  which  is  charged  on  his  shield. 

p  3 


322 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA -—MOXTE  SACRO. 


Sect.  III. 


While  alive  lie  vas  allowed  the  honour 
of  sitting  in  the  coro,  and  at  his  death 
was  buried  in  the  tomb-house  of 
royalty,  and  on  the  site  of  his  great  deed. 

The  S.igrano  itself  is  a  monstrous 
jumble  of  churrigueresque,  costly  in 
material  and  poor  in  design.  The 
pillars  are, too  low  and  the  altars  taw- 
dry. The  "  San  Jose,**  by  Cano,  is  hung 
too  high  to  be  well  seen.  Here  lies  the 
good  Fernando  de  Talavera,  the  first 
archbishop,  obt.  May  14,  1507.  The 
Conde  de  Tendilla,  the  first  Alcaide  of 
the  Alhambra,  raised  this  tomb,  and 
inscribed  it  **  Amicus  Amico." 

On  leaving  the  cathedral  enter  the 
Zitcatm,  the  "  shopping-street"  (Zok — 
Arabice  market)  ot  now  decayed  Gran- 
ada: to  the  1.  is  the  Alcaiseria,  which 
has  been  restored  since  the  fire  July  20, 
1843;  previously  it  was  an  identical 
Moorish  silk-bazaar,  with  small  Te- 
tuan-like  shops,  and  closed  at  night  by 
doors.  Half-way  down  the  Zacatin 
cross  the  Darro  over  a  brid^  to  the 
C'Jisa  del  Carbon.  This  Moorish  palace 
— Carbone  notandum — was  built  very 
early  in  1070  by  Badis,  and  was  used, 
it  is  saud,  by  the  brother  of  Boabdil 
as  his  royal  mews:  now  it  is  de- 
graded into  a  den  of  beggars,  Carbone- 
ros,  and  their  charcoal.  The  archway 
is  very  rich.  Adjoining  is  the  house 
of  the  Duque  de  Abrantes,  by  whose 
wife  this  -Moorish  residence  was  some 
years  ago  modernised  and  white- 
washed. Below  is  a  subterranean 
passage,  said  to  communicate  with  the 
Alhambra:  for  his  incurious  grace 
blocked  it  up  without  any  previous 
examination.  This  grandee  possesses 
much  land  in  the  Vega :  one  farm  was 
bought  of  the  Infanta  Fatima  in  1495 
for  4000  reals,  and  is  now  worth  a  mil- 
lion. His  Arabic  title-deeds  deserve 
the  notice  of  conveyancing  amateurs. 

The  Zacatin  is  filled  with  petty  silver- 
smiths; at  the  end  is  the  Fliza  wxeva 
and  the  Chancilleriay  or  Court  of 
Chancery,  with  its  handsome  facade, 
built  in  1584,  by  Martin  Diaz  Na- 
varro, after  designs  of  Juan  de  Her- 
rera.  Here  resided  the  Captain  Gene- 
ral. The  court,  since  recent  altera- 
tions, is  no  longer  what  it  formerly 
was,  when  the  sole  grand  tribunal  of 


appeal  for  the  S.  half  of  Spain. 
Pursuing  the  course  of  the  Darro 
turn  to  the  1.,  near  a  half-broken 
Moorish  arch,  which,  stemming  the 
torrent,  -connected  the  Alhambra  hill 
with  the  Moorish  Mint.  This  Casa 
de  la  Moneda  opposite,  "  La  Purisimi 
Concdpcion**  was  turned  by  the  Spa- 
niards into  a  prison,  and  next  pulled 
down  in  1844:  there  was  a  curious 
Arabic  inscription  over  the  door.  In 
the  Calle  del  Bauuelo,  No.  30,  is  a 
Moorish  bath  with  horseshoe  arches; 
it  is  entered  from  the  back,  and  is 
quite  a  picture,  although  now  only  used 
by  women  who  wash  linen  and  do  not 
wash  themselves.  One  of  the  first  laws 
after  the  conquest  of  the  Catholic  sove- 
reigns was  to  prohibit  bathing  by  fine 
and  punishment.  (/?eco;>.  viii.  2,  21.) 
Passing  the  elegant  tower  of  Santa 
Ana,  we  reach  the  Alameda  del  Darro  ; 
a  bridge  leads  up  to  the  Puerto  de  los 
MolinoSf  and  also  to  the  1.  up  to  the 
medicinal  Fuente  de  los  Avellauos,  which 
is  by  some  considered  to  be  the  Ayn-ad- 
dama,  the  "  fountain  of  tears,"  cor- 
rupted by  Spaniards  into  Dina-damar. 
This  squirt  is  compared  by  the  charla- 
tan Chateaubriand  to  Vaucluse !  Those 
who  do  not  cross  the  bridge  may  con- 
tinue to  ascend  to  the  Monte  Sacra, 
where  a  gross  trick  was  played  off  in 
1588  on  the  Archbishop  de  Castro,  who 
founded  a  college  on  the  site  of  some 
discoveries  of  forged  relics,  and 
marked  the  spots  by  crosses.  A  folio, 
Diseitrsos  sobre  la  Certidumbre,  &c.,  was 
published  at  Granada  in  1601,  by  Gre- 
gorio  Lope  Madera,  to  prove  their  un- 
doubted genuineness ;  and  in  the  last 
centuiy  Echevarria  made  an  attempt 
to  revive  the  forgeries,  whereupon  the 
learned  canon  Bayer  managed  to  have 
a  commission  of  inquiry  appointed 
by  Charles  III.  The  report  is  indeed 
a  curious  *  Blue  Book,*  printed  by  Ibarra 
(  Razon  del  Juicio  seguido  en  la  ciiidad 
de  Granada,  ante  Don.  Manuel  Doz ; 
folio.  Mad.  1 781 ),  from  which  it  I4>pears 
that  Alonso  de  Castillo  and  Miguel  de 
Luna,  two  notorious  impostors,  forged 
the  writings  and  hid  the  bones  and 
lead  vessels  both  here  and  in  the 
Torre  Turpiana ;  these  they  soon  dug 
up,  and  then  revealed  the  rare  dis- 


JRonda  ^  Granada.        route  25. — maria  pineda. 


323 


covery  to  the  prelate,  who  actually 
employed  the  very  originators  of  the 
trick  to  decipher  the  unknown  cha- 
racters. They  professed  to  relate  to 
San  Cecilio,  since  the  patron  of  Gra- 
nada, and  some  say  a  disciple  of  Santi- 
ago's, who  deaf  and  dumb  from  boy- 
hood, after  having  been  cured  by  a 
miracle,  came  to  Spain,  and  there  went 
blind.  His  sight,  however,  was  re- 
stored by  wiping  his  eyes  with  the 
Virgin's  handkerchief,  for  which  relic 
Philip  II.  sent,  when  ill  in  1 595.  Some 
of  these  vouchers  for  the  cure  of  San 
Cecilio  were  written  by  a  miraculous 
anticipation  in  choice  Castilian ;  and 
Aldrete,  the  antiquarian,  narrowly  es- 
caped being  burnt  for  saying  that  the 
Spanish  language  did  not  exist  in  the 
first  century. 

Descending  again  to  the  Alameda 
del  Darro,  turn  up  the  Calle  de  la 
Victoria  to  the  Caaa  Chapis  on  the  rt. 
hand,  a  now  degraded  but  once  beau- 
tiful Moorish  villa.  Observe  the  patio, 
the  galleries,  and  the  enriched  window, 
which  open  towards  the  Alhambra; 
now  ascend  to  the  Albaicin,eindL  visit  the 
church  of  San  Nicolas  for  the  view,  and 
there  are  few  panoramas  equal  to  it  in 
the  world.  This  saint  is  the  patron  of 
robbers,  schoolboys,  and  portionless 
virgins,  but  his  church  was  broken 
into  by  some  worthless  thieves,  men 
without  honour ;  whereupon  "  Old 
Nick"  drove  them  out  with  his  crosier. 
The  miracle  represented  in  a  rude  pic- 
ture is  hung  here  as  a  notice  to  other 
trespassers.  One  of  the  confessionals 
was  lined,  when  we  were  last  there, 
with  a  French  paper  of  Venus,  Cupid, 
and  flowers,  suggestive  of  sins;  the 
Alhaicin  suburb,  busy  and  industrious 
under  the  Moor,  is  now  the  abode  of 
idleness  and  poverty :  it  still  retains  its 
own  circumvallation,  and  many  of  the 
Moorish  houses  of  the  humble  refugees 
fromBaeza  still  remain  here  unchanged. 

Passing  out  at  a  portal  another  ravine 
is  crossed,  beyond  which  is  another 
suburb,  also  walled  in  by  long  lines, 
which  terminate  at  San  Miguel  el  alto. 
Sebastiani's  troops  burnt  this  chapel 
and  sanctuary,  but  the  glorious  views 
remain,  which  they  could  not  destroy. 
The  long  line  of  wall  which  runs  up 


to  this  height  is  called  La  Cerca  del 
Obispo,  because  raised  by  Don  Gon- 
zalo  de  Zu&iga,  the  captive  Bishop  of 
Jaen,  as  his  ransom.  From  the  conical 
height  the  prospect  of  Granada  and  the 
Vega  is  magnificent;  the  sunsets  are  un- 
rivalled, none  should  omit  the  ascent. 

Turning  to  the  1.  we  descend  into 
Granada  by  a  ravine ;  to  the  rt.  -was 
the  ancient  Moorish  Casa  del  Gallo, 
which  .was  pulled  down  in  1817  to 
build  a  tile-manufactory;  formerly  it 
was  a  look-out  guard-post,  and  the 
weathercock  indicated  watchfulness — 
"  fore-warned,  fore-armed.*  *  The  vane 
consisted  of  an  armed  Moor,  whose 
lance  veered  with  the  wind. 

"  Dice  el  Sdbio  Aben  EaJms 

Que  asitehade  gttardar  al  Andaliu." 

This  was  held  to  be  a  charmed  talis- 
man, and  its  being  taken  down  by  the 
Moors  was  thought  to  have  entailed 
the  Christian  triumph. 

Crossing  the  defile  the  walls  of  the 
Albaicin  may  be  re-entered  by  a  Moor- 
ish gate,  above  which  is  another,  called 
La  Puerla  de  Monayma,  This  fine 
masonry  tower  overlooks  the  entrance 
to  Granada  and  the  Ptterta  de  Elvira, 
which  has  been  barbarously  repaired. 

Opposite  is  an  open  space,  converted 
in  1846  into  a  charming  Paseo  y  Ala- 
meda; in  the  centre  is  El  Triunfo,  with 
a  statue  of  the  Virgin  bv  Alonso  de 
Mena,  near  which  executions  used  to 
take  place.  Here,  in  May,  1831, 
Mariana  Pineda,  a  lady  of  birth  and 
beauty,  was  strangled;  a  simple  cross 
marks  the  spot ;  her  crime  was  the 
finding  in  her  house  an  embroidered 
constitutional  flag.  This  Alice  Lisle 
of  Spain,  was  generally  thought  to  be 
guiltless,  and  that  the  evidence  of 
treason  was  placed  in  her  house  by 
some  agent  of  Ramon  Pedroza,  a  low 
empleado  of  Granada,  whose  addresses 
she  had  rejected.  Her  body,  in  1836, 
was  raised  and  carried  in  state  to  the 
AyuntamierUo ;  and  on  the  anniversaij 
of  her  execution,  the  sarcophagus  is 
taken  in  solemn  procession  to  the  ca- 
thedral, where  an  impressive  requiem 
is  performed.  The  erecting  a  statue  is 
talked  about,  and  the  vile  .  model  in 
plaster  by  one  Gonzalez  is  in  the  Mu« 
seo ;  no  ship's  figure-head  can  be  worse. 


324 


ROUTE  25. — GRANADA — CARTUJA — SAN  JERONIMO.   Sect.  III. 


Next  visit  the  Cartuja  convent,  a 
little  way  out  of  the  town  to  the  rt., 
once  so  rich  in  works  of  art,  piety,  and 
value :  Sebastiani,  having  first  pillaged 
and  desecrated  everything,  made  it  into 
a  magazine ;  then  disappeared  the  pil- 
lars of  silver,  and  the  fine  pictures  by  I 
Cano ;  now  it  is  suppressed.  The  doors 
of  the  chapel  are  beautifully  inlaid  with 
ebony  and  tortoiseshell :  the  sanctuary 
is  paved  with  a  rich  marble  pattern  in 
black  and  white.  Observe  the  Comodaa 
in  the  Sacristia,  the  Azulejo  in  the 
cloisters,  and  a  cupola  by  Palomino. 
Here  also  are  some  poor  paintings 
by  J.  S.  Cotan,  of  the  English  Car- 
thusians, martyred,  in  1535,  by 
Henry  VIII. ;  this  is  a  favourite  sub- 
ject m  Spanish  Cartnjus,  in  order  to 
increase  the  national  dread  and  anti- 
Lutheran  bigotry ;  but  everything  now 
is  fast  hastening  to  ruin.  The  gardens 
are  charming :  those  who  have  leisure 
may  pursue  their  ride  or  walk  to  Visnar, 
a  villa  of  the  archbishop,  built  by 
Moscoso  y  Feralta,  which  is  deliciously 
situated  and  overlooks  the  Vega. 

Returning  to  the  Plaza  del  Triimfo, 
at  the  corner  is  the  Hospital  de  los 
Locos,  founded  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  one  of  the  earliest  of  all 
lunatic  asylums.  It  is  built  in  the 
transition  style  from  the  Gothic  to 
the  plateresque,  having  been  finished 
by  Charles  V.  The  initials  and  badges 
or  all  parties  are  blended.  Observe 
the  patio  and  the  light  lofty  pillars. 
The  interior  is  clean,  but  devoid  of 
good  management;  all  the  lunatics, 
except  those  who  are  locked  up  be- 
cause dangerous,  are  allowed  to  asso- 
ciate together,  with  little  attempt 
adopted  to  promote  their  recovery. 
At  the  upper  end  of  this  Plaza  is  the 
bull-fight  arena,  and  near  it  "  Las 
eras  de  Cristo"  "  the  threshing-floor 
of  Christ."  In  the  adjoining  Calle 
de  San  Lazaro  is  a  large  hospital,  and 
a  real  lazar-house.  Retracing  our 
steps  to  the  Calle  de  San  Juan  de  Dios, 
visit  the  hospital  founded  by  this  saint 
himself.  Juan  de  Robles  was  a  truly 
philanthropic  and  good  man,  and  before 
the  spirit  of  his  age;  thus  from  his 
preaching  the  necessity  of  foundling 
hospitals  he  was  shut  up  as  a  madman. 


and  Ymjaula  or  cage  is  still  shown  :  he 
died  March  8, 1550,  and  was  canonised 
in  1699  by  Urban  VIII.  Consult  his 
*  Biogrofia,  by  Francisco  de  Castro, 
8vo.,  Granada,  1613,  and  printed  again 
at  Burgos,  1621.  Over  the  entrance  is 
his  statue  by  Mora  in  the  usual  attitude 
in  which  he  is  painted  and  carved, 
namely,  that  in  which  he  expired^-on 
his  knees,  as  did  our  Alexander  Cniden 
author  of  the  Bible  Concordance.  His 
body  was  kept  in  an  uma,  with  pillars 
and  canopy  of  silver,  melted  by  Sebas- 
tiani, who  also  "  removed "  the  best 
pictures.  The  hospital  has  two  courts ; 
the  outer  has  a  fountain  and  open 
galleries ;  the  inner  is  painted  with  the 
saint's  authentic  miracles:  in  one  he 
tumbles  from  his  horse,  and  the  Virgin 
brings  him  water;  in  another,  when 
sick,  the  Virgin  and  St.  John  visit 
him,  wiping  his  forehead.  In  the  W. 
angle  of  the  outer  court  over  a  staircase 
is  a  fine  artesonado  ceiling. 

Hence  to  San  Jeronimo.  This  once 
superb  convent,  now  a  cavalry  barrack, 
was  begun  by  the  catholic  sovereigns 
in  1496.  The  chapel  was  designed  by 
Diego  de  Siloe :  left  incomplete,  the 
building  was  finished  by  the  widow  of 
the  Great  Captain,  as  Blenheim  was 
by  Old  Sarah.  On  the  exterior  is 
a  tablet  supported  by  figures  of  Forti- 
tude and  Industry,  inscribed  "  Gon- 
salvo  Ferdinando  de  Cordoba  magno 
Hispanorum  duci,  Gallorum  ac  Tur- 
corum  Terror! :"  below  are  his  arms, 
with  soldiers  as  supporters.  The  grand 
patio  is  noble,  with  its  elliptical  arches 
and  Gothic  balustrades.  The  chapel 
is  spacious,  but  suffered  much  in  the 
earthquake  of  1804.  The  Retahlo  of 
four  stories  bore  the  armorial  shields 
of  Gonzalo.  The  effigies  of  the  Cap- 
tain and  his  wife  knelt  on  each  side 
of  the  high  altar,  before  which  he 
was  buried  :  the  epitaph  of  this  truly 
great  man  is  simple  and  worthy  of 
his  greatness : — "  Gonzali  Fernandez 
de  Cordova,  qui  propria  virtute  magni 
ducis  nomen  proprium  sibi  fecit,  ossa 
perpetuse  tandem  luci  restituenda  huic 
interea  loculo  credita  sunt,  gloria  mi- 
nime  consepulta."  This  convent  was 
pillaged  by  Sebastiani's  troops,  who 
insulted  the  dead  lion's  ashes,  before 


Ronda  4'  Granada,    route  25. — excursions  near  granada. 


325 


■whom,  -when  alive,  their  ancestors  had 
always  fled.  Serrano  gives  the  details, 
p.  255.  They  tore  down  the  Sacristia  for 
the  sake  of  the  wood,  while  Sehastiani 
destroyed  the  tower  in  order  to  use  the 
matensds  in  huilding  a  bridge  over  the 
Genii ;  they  carried  off  the  Great  Cap- 
tain's sword  and  pulled  down  his  ban- 
ners. The  final  ruin  of  the  monument 
of  artistical  and  military  greatness 
dates  from  domestic  revolutionists  and 
Vandals.  At  the  suppression  of  con- 
vents in  1836  a  Spanish  mob  robbed 
and  destroyed  everything;  even  the 
bones  of  the  Great  Captain  and  his 
wife  were  dug  up  and  cast  out. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  aristo- 
cratical  portion  of  Granada,  and  the 
Calle  de  las  Tobias.  Here  the  Conde  de 
Luque  has  a  fine  mansion.  There  is 
'not  much  else  to  be  seen  in  Granada. 
The  churrigueresque  San  AnqustiaSy  on 
the  Darro  walk,  has  12  apostles  carved 
by  Pedro  Duque  Cornejo,  and  a  rich 
jasper  Camarin,  under  which  is  the 
miraculous  image,  la  Patrona  de  Gra- 
nada, which  once  upon  a  time  came 
from  Toledo  of  its  own  accord.  This 
idol  is  carried  in  a  pagan  Pompa  to  the 
cathedral  every  Easter  Monday.  Chris- 
tina, in  1846,  gave  it  a  crown  of  gold 
as  an  offering  of  gratitude  for  its 
having  dethroned  Espartero,  and  the 
servile  priest-ridden  town  petitioned 
that  it  might  be  raised  to  the  rank  of 
Captain  General.  The  city  was  more- 
over honoured  with  the  title  Heroica, 
because  its  mob  assisted  Concha  to  hunt 
his  brother-in-law  Espartero  out  of 
Spain,  and  it  was  permitted  to  add  to 
its  shield  the  banner  of  Castile,  wav- 
ing from  the  Torre  de  la  Vela !  Near 
San  Francisco,  now.  turned  into  the  post- 
office,  is  a  quaint  old  house.  La  Casa 
de  Tiros,  with  a  fa9ade  of  soldiers  and 
projecting  arms.  Another  house  worth 
looking  at  is  the  Casa  de  Castril, 
near  the  San  Pedro  y  Pablo,  with 
good  cinque-cento  ornaments  inside 
and  out,  after  designs  of  Diego  de 
Siloe,  1539.  There  are  sundry  tales 
about  the  motto,  Esperandola,  &c.,  not 
worth  recording.  In  Santa  Catalina 
de  Zafra  is  a  tolerable  picture  of  the 
marriage  of  the  tutelar,  by  Alonso 
Cano.    Visit  by  all  means  the  San  Juan 


de  los  Reyes.  Observe  the  tower ;  this 
was  the  first  Moorish  mosque  conse- 
crated by  the  good  Archbishop  Ferdi- 
nand de  Talavera :  here  Isabel  attended 
mass,  and  gave  a  Retablo  with  portraits 
of  herself  and  husband  by  Antonio 
Rincon.  In  the  Calle  de  Elvira  is  the 
heavy,  ill-executed  fountain  del  Toro, 
erroneously  attributed  to  Berruguete, 
for  it  is  a  libel  on  that  eminent  artist. 

Excursions  near  Granada. 

These  are  numerous  and  full  of  in- 
terest to  the  historian,  artist,  and  geo- 
lo^st.  The  Englishman,  be  his  pur- 
suits what  they  may,  will  first  visit  the 
Soto  de  Roma,  not  that  it  has  much 
intrinsic  interest  beyond  that  reflected 
on  it  by  the  Great  Captain  of  England. 
This  property  lies  about  3  L.  from 
Granada,  and  is  bounded  to  the  W.  by 
the  Sierra  de  Elvira,  which  rises  like  a 
throne  of  stone  over  the  carpeted  Vega, 
for  its  advanced  guard  or  sentinel ; 
a  spring  of  water,  however,  gushes 
from  this  rocky  alembic,  and  is 
good  for  cutaneous  complaints.  Near 
Atarfe  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient 
city  Tlliheris.  Here  the  celebrated 
Council  was  held  about  the  year  303, 
at  which  Osius  of  Cordova  presided 
over  19  Spanish  bishops.  The  81 
canons  breathe  a  merciless  anathema 
and  death,  worthy  of  the  land  of  the 
future  Inquisition.  The  crimes  and 
penalties  give  an  insight  into  the 
manners  of  the  age.  The  canons  are 
printed  in  Pedraza,  217.  The  best 
edition  of  the  early  councils  and  canons 
of  Spain  is  the  *  Collectio  Maxima* 
Jose  Saenz  de  Aguirre,  fol.,  4  vols. 
Roma,  1693-4;  or  the  fol.,  6  vols. 
Roma,  Jos.  Catalani,  1753.  See  also 
*  La  Defensa  y  aprobacif/n  del  Concilio  II' 
liheritano*  F.  Mendoza,  fol..  Mad.  1594. 

This  hill  possesses  a  mournful  fame 
in  Spanish  history  from  the  defeat  of 
the  Infantes  Pedro  and  Juan.  They 
had  advanced  against  the  Moors  with 
"  numbers  that  covered  the  earth." 
After  much  vainglorious  boasting  they 
retired,  and  were  followed,  June  26, 
1319,  by  about  5000  Moorish  cavalry, 
and  entirely  put  to  rout :  50,000  are  said 
to  have  fallen,  with  both  the  Infantes. 
The  body  of  Don  Pedro  was  skinned 


326 


ROUTE  25. — SOTO  DE  ROMA. 


Sect.  III. 


stuffed,  and  put  over  the  ^te  of 
Elvira ;  many  princes  were  slain,  and 
among  them  the  Lord  of  Ilkerinter- 
rah,  or  England,  just  as  Lord  Macduff 
was  wounded  at  the  very  similar  affair 
of  Ocana.  This  disaster  was  amply 
avenged  21  years  after  by  Alonso  XI. 
at  Tarifa,  and  again  by  Juan  II.,  or 
rather  Alvaro  de  Luna,  who  here,  in 
June,  1431,  defeated  the  Moors.  The 
battle  is  generally  called  de  la  Higue- 
ruela,  from  the  little  fig-tree  under 
which  the  king  bivouacked,  or  others 
saj,  from  the  bribes  enclosed  in  figs 
with  which  Alvaro  corrupted  the 
Moorish  captains :  of  this  engagement 
there  is  a  most  curious  chiaro  oscuro 
drawing  on  a  wall  at  the  Escorial. 

The  Soto  de  Roma  is  so  called,  either 
from  the  "Wood  of  Pomegranates," 
or  more  probably  from  the  village 
Romay  Ritmif  which,  in  the  time  of  the 
Moors,  was  inhabited  by  Christians, 
Rurrif  Rumi ;  situated  on  the  Xenil, 
it  is  liable  to  constant  injuries  from 
its  inundations.  The  estate  was  an 
appanage  of  the  kings  of  Granada, 
and  was  granted  May  23,  1492,  by 
Ferdinand  to  his  lieutenant  at  that 
siege,  the  uncle  of  the  celebrated  Senor 
AlarQon,  to  whom  were  committed  as 
prisoners  both  Fran9ois  L  and  Clement 
VII.  His  *  Comentariosy  folio,  Madrid, 
1 665,  detail  services  of  58  years.  Thus, 
the  brightest  pearl  in  the  coronets  of 
the  first  and  last  soldier  proprietors, 
was  earned  from  the  broken  diadem  of 
France.  The  Soto,  on  the  failure  of 
the  AlarQon  family,  was  resumed  by 
the  crown,  and  henceforward  granted 
to  court  favourites.  Charles  III.  gave 
it  to  Richard  Wall,  his  former  prime 
minister.  This  Irish  gentleman  lived 
here  in  1776.  Before  he  came  here 
the  house  was  in  ruins,  and  the  lands 
neglected,  the  fate  of  most  absentee 
properties  in  Spain,  but  Wall,  although 
83  years  old,  put  everything  into  per- 
fect order.  Charles  IV.,  after  his  death, 
granted  the  estate  to  the  minion  Godoy. 
At  the  French  invasion  Joseph,  **  qui 
faisait  bien  ses  affaires,"  secured  the 
property  to  himself.  The  victory  of 
Salamanca  proved  a  flaw  in  the  title, 
whereupon  the  Cortes  granted  the  estate 
to  the  able  practitioner  who  settled  the 


reconveyance ;  and  this  is  one  of  the  few 
of  their  grants  which  Ferdinand  VII. 
confirmed,  but  very  reluctantly:  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  held  it  hyescriturn 
de  pose$ion,  in  fee  simple,  and  unen- 
tailed. It  contains  about  4000  acres, 
and  was  celebrated  for  its  pheasants  that 
Charles  V.  had  introduced,  and  which 
were  destroyed  in  the  time  of  Sebastiani. 

The  value  of  this  estate  has  been 
enormously  magnified  by  Spaniards, 
first  from  their  habitual  **  ponderacion,*^ 
then  from  a  desire  to  exaggerate  the 
national  gift,  and  lastly  from  their  not 
knowing  what  they  are  talking  about 
Thus,  said  they,  the  "  Soto  is  worth 
at  least  a  million,"  until  in  Spain  and 
out  of  Spain  it  was  considered  an  El- 
dorado. In  sober  reality,  the  land  it- 
self is  poor,  and  the  house,  this  so- 
called  "  palace,"  in  England  would  only 
pass  for  a  decent  manor-farm.  The 
whole  property,  in  1815,  produced 
about  3000/.  a-jear  ;  it  then  declined, 
in  common  with  all  other  estates  in 
the  Vega,  in  which,  in  1814,  wheat 
sold  at  60  to  70  reals  the  fanega,  and 
oil  at  85  reals  the  arroba.  In  1833 
wheat  sank  to  30  and  35  reals,  and  oil 
to  30  and  35  reals.  Since  the  recent 
changes  everything  has  got  worse,  and 
the  rents  have  decreased  and  the  bur- 
dens increased.  Under  Ferdinand,  the 
conditions  of  the  grant  were  respected ; 
under  the  liberal  constitution,  many  a 
right  was  violated.  The  estate  was 
tithe-free,  but,  when  the  church  re- 
venues were  "  appropriated,"  a  full 
tithe  was  exacted  for  state  and  secular 
coffers.  The  rambling  old  mansion  at 
the  Soto  contains  little  worth  notice, 
the  greengages  in  the  garden  excepted. 
Since  the  death  of  Gen.  O'Lawlor 
the  property  is  administered  by  Mr. 
Grindley. 

The  visitor,  if  on  horseback,  may 
cross  the  Xenil — that  is,  if  there  be 
no  flood— and  return  to  Granada  by 
the  now  decayed  agricultural  Santa 
F€y  the  town  built  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  while  besieging  Granada.  The 
miserable  spot  was  much  shattered  by 
an  earthquake  in  1807.  Here  the 
capitulation  of  Granada  was  signed, 
and  the  original  deed  is  at  Simancas. 
It  was  dated  at  this  town  of "  sacred 


Roivda  Sf  Granada,    route  25. — ^ascent  of  the  sierra  Nevada.     327 


fiith"  as  if  in  mockery  of  the  .Punic 
perfidy  with  which  every  stipulation 
was  subsequently  broken.  Nulla  fides 
serrandaest  hereticis.  It  was  from  Santa 
F€  that  Columbus  started  to  discover 
the  New  World,  and  also  to  find,  when 
success  had  rewarded  his  toils,  every 
pledge  previously  agreed  upon  scanda- 
lously disregarded.     Cosas  de  Hspaua. 

Ascent  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

The  lover  of  alpine  scenery  should 
by  all  means  ascend  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
The  gossiping  book  of  Dr.  F.  Pfendler 
d'Ottensheim  —  8°  Sevilla,  1848— is 
useful  as  to  the  altitudes,  botany  and 
Hygienic  details.  The  highest  peak 
is  the  MulahaceUj  so  called  from  Boab- 
dil's  father.  The  next  is  El  Pi- 
cacho  de  la  Veleta,  "  the  watch- 
point,**  which  appears  to  be  loftier, 
because  nearer  to  Granada,  and  of  a 
conical,  not  a  rounded  shape.  This 
eternal  rampart  of  the  lovely  Vega  is 
very  impressive :  the  sharp  mother-of- 
pearl  outline  cuts  the  blue  sky ;  clear 
and  defined,  yet  mysteriously  distant, 
size,  solitude,  and  sublimity  are  its 
characteristics.  The  adventurous  are 
inspired  to  scale  the  heights,  and  win 
the  favours  of  this  cold  beauty,  and 
she  will  be  melted  by  such  daring. 
The  distance  to  this  point  is  about  20 
m.,  and  may  be  accomplished  in  9  h. 
Those  who  start  in  the  night  may  re- 
turn the  next  day.  The  author  has 
been  up  twice— a  sort  of  Spanish  Mont 
Blanc  ascent  in  those  days — sleeping 
the  first  time  al  fresco  near  the  summit, 
and  the  second  at  the  Cortijo  del  Puche 
— the  pipkin — when  a  delicate  English 
lady  and  a  grave  ambassador  composed 
the  party.  The  greater  part  of  the 
ascent  may  be  ridden ;  for  the  Neveros, 
who  go  nightly  up  for  snow,  have  worn 
with  their  mules  a  roadway. 

Leaving  Granada,  and  crossing  the 
Xeuil,  a  charming  view  of  the  city  is 
obtained  from  San  Antonio.  Thence 
skirting  the  Cuesta  de  la  Vaca,  an  hour 
and  a  halfs  ride  leads  to  the  Faente 
de  los  Castafios,  and  another  hour  and 
a  half  to  the  Puche,  where  the  moun- 
tain is  cultivated.  Near  here  is  El 
Barranco  de  ViboraSy  the  viper  cleft: 
these  snakes  enjoy  a  medicinal  reputa- 
tion second  only  to  those  of  Chiclana. 


Passing  El  Domajo,  an  alpine  jumble 
of  rocks,  we  mount  above  the  lower 
ranges  of  the  pinnacles,  and  now  the 
true  elevation  of  the  Picacho  begins  to 
become  .manifest,  and  seems  to  soar 
higher  in  proportion  as  we  ascend. 
The  next  stage  is  las  Piedras  de  San 
Francisco,  whose  black  masses  are  seen 
from  below  resting  on  the  snowy  bosom 
of  the  Sierra.  Now  commence  the  Ven- 
tisqueros,  or  pits  of  snow,  from  which 
the  mountain  is  seldom  free,  as  patches 
remain  even  in  the  dog-days.  These, 
which,  when  seen  from  below,  appear 
small,  and  like  white  spots  on  a  panther's 
hide,  are,  when  approached,  vast  fields. 
At  El  Prevesin  is  a  stone  enclosure, 
built  up  by  the  Neveros  as  an  asylum 
during  sudden  storms;  and  here  the 
first  night  may  be  passed,  either  as- 
cending to  the  summit  in  3  h.,  to  see 
the  sun  set,  and  then  returning,  or 
mounting  early  to  see  the  sun  rise,  a 
sight  which  no  pen  can  describe.  The 
night  passed  on  these  heights  is  pierc- 
ing cold — "  the  air  bites  shrewdly  ;** 
but  with  a  "  provend "  of  blankets, 
and  of  good  Vino  de  Baza,  it  will  kill 
no  one.  While  beds  are  making  for 
man  and  beast,  the  foragers  must  be 
sent  to  collect  the  dry  plants  and  dead 
underwood,  of  which  such  a  bonfire  can 
be  made  as  will  make  the  gapinff  Grana- 
dians  below  think  the  Picacho  is  going 
to  be  a  volcano,  probatum  est.  No  dia- 
monds ever  sparkle  like  the  stars  on 
the  deep  firmament,  seen  from  hence, 
at  midnight,  through  the  rarified  me- 
dium. After  the  Prevesin  begins  the 
tug  of  war.  For  the  first  hour  there  is 
a  sort  of  track,  which  may  be  ridden ; 
the  rest  must  be  done  on  foot.  The 
effects  produced  by  the  rarity  of  the 
air  on  the  lungs  and  body  are  not  felt 
while  seated  on  a  mule  ;  but  now  that 
muscular  exertion  is  necessarv,a  greater 
strain  is  required  than  when  m  a  denser 
atmosphere.  The  equilibration  of  air, 
which  supports  the  bones,  as  water  does 
the  fish,  IS  wanting,  and  the  muscles 
have  to  bear  the  additional  weight; 
hence  the  exhaustion. 

The  Picacho  is  a  small  platform  over 
a  yawning  precipice.  Now  we  are 
raised  above  the  earth,  which,  with 
all  its  glories,  lies  like  an  opened 
map  at  our  feet:   when  the  vapov 


323 


ROUTE  25. — SIERRA  NEVADA.     SUMMIT. 


Sect.  III. 


ascend  from  the  ocean,  they  are  spread 
out  in  the  plains  beneath  like  a  fleecy 
sea,  out  of  which  the  black  pin- 
nacles of  lower  mountains  emerge 
like  islands ;  when  the  thunder-storms 
roll  below  your  feet,  you  look  down 
eyen  on  the  lightning.  Now  the 
eye  trarels  over  the  infinite  space, 
swifter  than  by  railroad,  comprehend- 
ing it  all  at  once.  On  one  hand  is  the 
blue  Mediterranean  lake,  with  the  faint 
outline  even  of  Africa  in  the  indis- 
tinct horizon.  Inland,  jagged  sierras 
rise  one  over  another,  the  barriers  of 
the  central  Castiles.  The  cold  subli- 
mity of  these  silent  eternal  snows  is 
fully  felt  on  the  very  pinnacle  of  the 
Alp,  which  stands  out  in  friendless 
state,  isolated  like  a  despot,  and  too 
elevated  to  have  anything  in  common 
with  aught  below.  On  this  barren 
wind-blown  height  vegetation  and  life 
have  ceased,  even  the  last  lichen  or 
pale  violet,  which  blooming  like  beauty 
on  the  verge  of  ruin,  wastes  its  sweet- 
ness wherever  a  stone  offers  shelter 
from  the  snow ;  thousands  of  winged 
insects  lie  frozen,  each  in  its  little 
cell,  having  thawed  itself  a  shroud, 
with  its  last  warmth  of  life.  In  the 
scarped  and  soil-denuded  heights  the 
eagle  builds;  she  must  have  moun- 
tains for  her  eyrie.  Here  she  reigns 
unmolested  on  her  stony  throne ;  and 
lofty  as  are  these  peaks  above  the  earth, 
these  birds,  towering  above,  mere 
specks  in  the  blue  heaven, 

•'  Yet  higher  still  to  light's  first  source  aspire, 
With  eyes  that  never  blink,  and  wings  that 
never  tire." 

To  the  botanist  this  sierra  is  un- 
rivalled. The  herbal  of  Spain  was 
always  celebrated  (Pliny,  *  N.  H.*  xxv. 
3).  The  vegetation  commences  with 
the  lichen  and  terminates  with  the 
sugar-cane.  At  the  tails  of  the  snow- 
fields  the  mosses  germinate,  and  from 
these  the  silver  threads  of  new-bom 
rivers  issue.  The  principal  heights  of 
the  Alpujarras  chain  are  thus  calcu- 
lated by  llojas  Clemente: — 

feet. 

Picacho  Mulahacen  .  .  12,762 

Picacho  de  la  Veleta  .  .  12,469 

Cerro  de  la  Alcazaba  .  .  12,300 

Cerro  de  los  Machos  .  .  12,138 

Cerro  de  la  Caldera  .  .  10,908 

Cerro  de  T^jos  altos  •  .  10,890 

Picon  de  Jerez  •     •  •  •  lo.ioo 


The  geologist  may  take  a  pleasant 
day's  ride  from  Granada  to  the  quarries 
from  whence  the  green  serpentine  is 
obtained.  They  lie  under  the  Picacho 
de  la  Veleta^  and  belone  to  the  Man^uis 
de  Mondejar.  Ascend  the  charming 
valley  of  the  Xenil  to  Senes,  1  L.: 
thence  to  Pinos,  1  L. ;  and  to  Huecar^ 
1  L.  Here  vast  quantities  of  silkworms 
are  reared.  The  whole  process  of  the 
breeding,  &c.,  is  nasty ;  cocoons  are 
placed  m  hot  water  to  destroy  the 
animal,  and  the  winding  the  thread  is 
anything  but  a  sweet-smelling  job; 
but  seen  from  afar,  as  the  peasants 
prepare  the  golden  tissue  in  most  pa- 
triarchal poverty,  the  poetry  and  the 
picturesque  is  perfect.  While  the 
dinner  is  getting  ready  at  the  tidy  Tio 
Pardo*s  (Nunky  Brown)  (bring  the 
materials  with  you),  ride  up  the  defile 
to  the  Barranco  de  San  Jitan,  l^  L., 
taking  a  Huecar  guide.  The  green 
serpentine  blocks  lie  in  the  bed  of 
the  stream.  Return  to  Huecar,  and 
let  both  men  and  beasts  dine. 

Another  morning  ride  wiU  be  over 
the  cricket-looking  grounds,  Los  Llanos 
de  Armillaf  to  Alhendin^  and  thence  by 
the  Padul  road  to  some  sandy  knolls, 
where,  from  want  of  water,  all  is  a  de- 
sert, tawny  and  rugged  as  the  few 
goats  which  there  seek  a  scanty  pas- 
turage. Granada  now  is  lost  sight  of, 
and  hence  the  spot  is  called  El  ultimo 
suspiro  del  Mora,  or  La  cuesta  de  las 
lagrimaSf  for  here  Boabdil,  Jan.  2, 
1492,  sighed  and  wept  his  last  fare- 
well. Then  the  banner  of  Santiago 
floated  on  his  red  towers,  and  all  was 
lost.  Behind  was  an  Eden,  like  the 
glories  of  his  past  reign  ;  before  him  a 
desert,  cheerless  as  the  prospects  of  a 
dethroned  king.  Then,  as  tears  burst 
from  his  water-filled  eyes,  he  was  re- 
proached by  'Ayeshah,  his  mother, 
whose  rivalries  had  caused  the  cala- 
mity. "  Thou  dost  well  to  weep  like 
a  woman  for  that  which  thou  hast  not 
defended  like  a  man."  When  this 
anecdote  was  told  to  Charles  V.,  "  She 
spake  well,"  observed  the  Emperor, 
"  for  a  tomb  in  the  Alhambra  is  better 
than  a  palace  in  the  Alpujarras." 
Thither,  and  to  Purchenay  Boabdil  re- 
tired, but  not  for  long.  He  sickened  in 
his  exile,  and  passing  over  into  Africa,  is 


Eorda  ^  Granada,    route  26. — granada  to  adra. 


329 


said,  to  have  been  killed  in  a  petty  battle, 
thus  losing  his  life  in  defending  another 
person's  cause  better  than  he  did  his 
own  (^Hist,  Africa  MarmoL  i.  248).  Gay- 
angos,  however  (Moh.  D.  ii.  390),  has 
ascertained  that  he  lived  at  Fez  until 
1538,  where  his  posterity  was  long  to 
be  traced,  but  reduced  to  the  lowest 
poverty,  existing  as  beggars  on  the 
charity  doled  out  at  the  mosque-doors ! 
a  sad  reverse  of  fortune,  and  a  melan- 
choly conclusion  of  the  brilliant  Mo- 
hammedan dynasty  in  Spain. 

Do  not  return  to  Granada  by  the 
same  road;  but  ask  for  the  villages 
Dotura  and  Otrusa,  and  then  strike  to 
the  rt.  and  cross  the  rivulet  Dilar  to 
Znhia,  to  which,  during  the  siege,  Isa- 
bella rode  to  have  a  view  of  the  Al- 
hambra :  while  she  halted  in  the  house 
with  Claude-like  miradores,  a  Moorish 
sally  was  made,  and  she  was  in  much 
danger.  In  memory  of  her  escape 
she  erected  a  hermitage  to  the  Virgin, 
who  appeared  visibly  for  her  protec- 
tion, and  the  building  still  remains 
amid  its  cypresses.  Returning  home, 
just  on  entering  the  avenue  of  the 
Xenil,  to  the  1.,  on  its  banks,  is 
San  Sehastiatif  once  a  Moorish  Caaba, 
to  which  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  ac- 
companied Boabdil  on  the  day  of  Gra- 
nada's surrender. — Head  the  inscrip- 
tion let  into  the  wall.  The  extraordi- 
nary Alamo,  or  tree,  under  which  the 
first  mass  was  said,  stood  here,  but  was 
cut  down  by  some  barbarians  in  1760. 
This  most  interesting  building  has 
since  been  turned  into  a  low  Venta,  and 
now  is  going  to  the  dogs — what  more 
need  be  said  of  the  modem  degenerate 
Granadinos. 

From  Granada  many  ride  to  Gib- 
raltar by  Loja,  Antequera,  and  Ronda 
(seeRte.  21). 

The  important  communications  be- 
tween Granada  and  the  sea-coast  have 
been  long  scandalously  neglected ;  im- 
proved routes,  however,  are  in  slow  pro- 
gress to  Malaga,  Almeria,  and  Motril. 
Meantime  a  sort  of  gondola  performs 
the  distance  to  Almeria  24  L.,  sleeping 
the  first  night  at  Guadix,  the  second 
at  the  poor  Venta  Dona  Maria,  arriv- 
ing the  third  at  Almeria,  Those  about 
to   ride  to  Malaga  yik  Alhama  may 


hear  of  horses  at  the  Posada  de  la 
Estrella.  Luggage  can  be  forwarded 
to  Seville  by  the  galeras  of  Huete,  to 
Malaga  by  those  of  Gomez,  to  Ahneria 
by  those  of  Barranco. 


Route  26. — Granada  to  Adba. 

Padul   .  .  .  .3  . . 

Durcal  .  .  .  2  . .     5 

Lu)jaron  .  .  .  3^  . .     %k 

Oijiba  .  .  .  .li  ..  10 

Cadiar  .  .  .  .5  . .  15 

Ujijar   .  .  ,  .3  . .  18 

Beija    .  .  .  .3  ..21 

Adra     ...  .2  ..  23 

This  is  a  ride  full  of  historical, 
artistical  and  geological  interest.  The 
traveller  should  master  his  Meiidoza 
fully  to  understand  the  historical  in- 
cidents ;  and  the  trip  may  be  prolonged 
from  Adra  either  E.  or  W.  ward, 
without  returning  to  Granada:  or 
the  return  may  be  made  by  Motril, 
principally  over  new  ground.  There  is 
a  direct  road  to  Almeria  without  going 
through  Adra ;  you  then  turn  off  soon 
after  IJjijar  to  Fondon  3  L.,  where  you 
can  sleep ;  the  direct  road  does  not  go 
through  Lanjaron,  which,  however,  de- 
serves a  visit.  Fondon  is  a  nominal  9 
L.  from  Almeria,  which  are  equal  to 
12.  The  best  division  would  be  to 
sleep  at  Orjiba  the  first  night  and  the 
second  at  Fondon, 

This  excursion  skirts  the  S.  bases 
of  the  Alpujarras,  the  last  mountain 
refuge  of  the  Morisco.  The  sierras  of 
Gador  and  Contravieja  are  the  nucleus, 
which  some  consider  to  be  the  "  Hills 
of  the  Sun  and  Moon  "  of  the  Moors. 
The  entire  chain  is  called  the  Sierra 
Nevada  (the  Himalaya  or  **  Snowy 
Range*'  of  Spain)  ,  the  "  Sholayr"  of 
the  Moors.  The  name  Alpujarras  is 
the  corruption  of  Al  Busheratf  "  grass," 
the  mountain  district  of  pastures,  which 
extend  W.  to  E.,  about  1 7  L.  long  by  1 1 
broad.  They  are  divided  into  11  por- 
tions or  Taos,  dependencies  (Arabicli 
Ta,  obedience).  This  territory  was 
assigned  to  Boabdil  by  the  treaty 
of  Granada,  of  which  every  stipula- 
tion was  soon  broken,  and  the  Mo- 
riscos  perfidiously  hunted  out  like  wild 
beasts,  until  expelled  at  last  in  1610, 
by  the  feeble  Philip  III.,  a  tool  in  the 


330 


ROUTE  26. — ^EXPUI^SION  OF  MORISCOS. 


Sect:  III. 


hands  of  a  powerful  church,  but  their 
resistance  in  these  broken  glens  and 
hills  was  desperate.  Most  of  them,  when 
banished,  went  to  Tetuan  and  Sale; 
there  they  took  to  piracy,  and  avenged 
themselves  on  all  Christians  by  pecu- 
liar ferocity.  The  name  of  the  "  rovers 
of  Sallee  "  is  familiar  to  all  readers  of 
nautical  foravs.  Thus  the  Spaniards, 
who  had  before  expelled"  the  wealthy 
commercial  Jews,  now  completed  their 
folly  by  the  banishment  of  the  indus- 
trious agricultural  Moors,  depriving 
their  poor  indolent  selves  of  money 
and  industry,  of  soul  and  body  alike. 
They  found  it  easier  to  destroy  and 
drive  out  than  to  conciliate  and  con- 
vert. They  thought  it  a  proof  of 
Roman  force  of  character,  to  make  a 
solitude  and  call  it  peace.  For  par- 
ticulars read  Mendoza's  *  Guerras  de 
Granada* 

Passing  the  Ultimo  Saspiro  (whence 
there  is  a  wild  ride  to  Alhama  In^  Ca- 
cin)f  we  descend  from  a  ridge  oi  bar- 
renness into  the  basin  between  the 
sierras  of  Granada  and  Alhama,  which 
is  an  irrigated  garden  of  olives,  palm- 
trees,  and  oranges.  PadiU,  with  its 
water-gushing  marshes,  is  quite  an 
oasis  of  verdure,  much  of  the  swamp 
below  and  of  La  Laguna  was  drained 
by  the  Herrasti  family,  of  which  the 
gallant  defender  of  Ciudad  Rodrigo 
was  a  member.  The  alpiue  views  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  from  Durcal,  which 
lies  basking  under  the  spur  called 
Sahor,  are  superb :  here  vast  quantities 
of  esparto  and  flax  are  grown.  Pass- 
ing TalarOf  whose  stream  tears  down  a 
wild  cleft,  observe  the  Puente  de  Ta- 
hlado.  X'j«;'aro»— Fonda  francesa,  and 
the  private  house  of  Don  Joze  Pajes — 
justly  called  the  Paradise  of  the  Al- 
pujarras,  is  seated  on  the  sierra  slope 
&ordaila,  at  the  head  of  the  delicious 
valley  of  Lecrin.  The  gorge  is  a  grand 
chasm,  and  a  celebrated  site  in  the 
Morisco  campaign  (Mendoza  iv.  31  ; 
V.  9).  Lanjaron,  Pop.  about  3000,  is  a 
picturesque  Swiss  town,  whose  fresh 
air,  fruit,  and  mineral  waters  attract 
summer  visitors  from  the  scorching 
coasts.  The  bathing  season  is  from 
May  15  Xo  Sept.  30.  The  walnut, 
Bi_chesnut,  and  olive  grow  here  to  ai\ 


enormous  size.  Below  the  town  is  a 
Moorish  castle,  perched  on  a  knoll,  with 
a  splendid  view.  The  peasantry  are 
hard  working  and  poverty  stricken, 
while  nature  all  around  teems  with 
fertility ;  the  fruit  and  grapes  are  deli- 
cious, and  the  broken  hills  abound  in 
subjects  for  artists,  while  the  botany 
and  geology  are  as  rich  as  they  are 
hitherto  unexplored.  A  long  league 
leads  to  Orjiba,  which  lies  at  the  base 
of  the  Picacho  de  la  Veleta,  The  Ace^ 
quia  de  las  Ventanas  is  picturesque; 
here  are  some  mines,  las  Minos  de  las 
Pozos,  which  were  worked  by  the  Ro- 
mans, but  abandoned  a  few  years  ago, 
because  the  natives  were  scared  by  a 
skeleton  found  in  them. 

Orjiba^  with  its  double  towered  church 
and  castle,  is  the  capital  of  its  hilly  par- 
tido :  Pop.  3200.    Every  possible  spot  is 
cultivated  with  fruit-trees;  some  of  the 
gigantic  olives  are  of  the  time  of  the 
Moors.     The  Barranco  de  Poqueira  and 
the  mill  and  cascade  of  Pampaneira 
are  very  picturesque,  and  are  worth 
visiting;  there  is  a  tolerable  posada. 
Leaving  Orjiba^  the  broken  road  winds 
up  the  bed  of  a  river,  the  Cadiar  or 
Gwulalfeo:    if  the   waters  are  low,   the 
rider  should  by  all  means  go  by  the 
Angostura  del  Bio.    This  is  a  Salvator- 
Rosa-like  gorge,  which  the  torrents 
have    forced   through   the  mountain. 
The  rocks  rise  up  on  each  side  like 
terrific  perpendicular  walls,  and  there 
is  only  an  opening  sufficient  for  the 
river — what  sections  and  strata  for  geo- 
logists I    The  traveller  passes,  like  the 
Israelites,  through  these  lonely  depths, 
into  which  the  sun  never  enters :  when 
the  snows  are  melting,  or  in  time  of 
rains,  the    deluge   rushes    down    the 
stony  funnel,  carrying  everything  be- 
fore it.    Such  a  one  had  occurred  just 
before  we  rode  through,  and  the  wreck 
and  ravages  were  visible  far  and  wide. 
Emerging,  the  last  3  L.  to  Cadiar  be- 
come less  interesting  as  the  river-bed 
widens.     Cadiar  has  a  vile  posada  :  be- 
ware of  bills ;  but  remember  the  hams. 
It  lies  about  2  mountain  L.  below  the 
Picacho  de  la  Veleta,  and  there  is  a 
chamois  path  over  the  heights  to  Gra- 
nada.   Up  in  the  mountain  is  TreveUz, 
3  L.  from  Cadiar,  where  the  "  Jamones 


RoTida  ^  Granada,      route  26. — ujuar — ^berja. 


331 


dulces  de  las  Alpujarras"  are  cured; 
no  gastronome  should  neglect  these 
stceet  hams.  Very  little  salt  is  used; 
the  ham  is  placed  eight  days  in  a  weak 
pickle,  and  then  hung  up  in  the  snow ; 
while  at  Berja^  and  in  less  elevated 
places,  more  salt  is  used,  and  the  deli- 
cate flavour  destroyed.  The  hamlet 
Trevelez  (pop.  about  1500)  is  situated 
among  these  mountains,  only  1  L.  from 
the  top  of  Mulahacen.  The  whole  of 
the  toGf  of  which  it  is  the  chief  place, 
is  wild  and  alpine;  the  trout  in  the 
river  Trevelez  are  also  delicious. 

Moorish  Ujijavy  famous  in  the  Mo- 
risco  wars  for  sieges  and  massacres, 
the  capital  of  the  Alpujarras,  is  girt 
with  hills,  and  hangs  over  the  Adra. 
Every  patch  of  ground  is  cultivated: 
grapes  grow  in  terraced  gardens,  and 
m  such  declivities  that  the  peasants 
are  let  down  by  ropes  to  pick  them, 
like  Shakspere's  samphire-gatherers. 
The  Colegiata  is  built  on  the  site  of 
the  destroyed  mosque ;  a  magnificent 
avenue  of  gigantic  elms,  planted  by 
the  Moors,  was  cut  down  by  the  Van- 
dal chapter  and  municipal  corporation 
— arcades  ambo — to  build  some  paltry 
offices. 

The  inhabitants,  some  3000,  are  half 
Moors,  although  they  speak  Spanish. 
The  women,  with  their  apricot  cheeks, 
black  eyes  and  hair,  gaze  wildly  at  the 
rare  stmnger  from  little  port-hole 
windows,  which  are  scarcely  bigger 
than  their  heads.  Three  long  L.,  by  a 
rambla  of  red  rocks,  lead  to  Berja. 
Alcolea  lies  to  the  I.  Here  the  foragers 
of  Sebastiani  butchered  the  curate  at 
the  very  altar,  scattering  his  brains 
over  the  crucifix;  400  persons  were 
massacred;  neither  age  nor  sex  were 
spared  (Schep.  iii.  1 12).  The  avenger  of 
the  Morisco  meted  out  to  the  Spaniards 
from  their  own  measure :  **  how  shall 
you  hope  for  mercy  rendiering  none  ?  " 

Berja  -Vergi,  is  a  busy,  flourishing, 
and  increasing  town ;  pop.  under  9000. 
It  lies  under  the  Sierra  de  Gador,  a 
mountain  of  lead,  some  7000  ft.  high 
and  10  L.  in  circumference.  The 
mines  have  been  in  work  since  1797, 
and  are  only  continued  while  they  re- 
munerate :  the  ore  occurs  in  uncertain 
quantities,  sometimes  in  veins,  and  at 


others  in  deposits,  or  bohadas.  Large 
fortunes  have  been  made  by  the  early 
speculators,  who  have  creamed  the  hill 
and  enjoyed  the  first  sale.  The  finest 
ore  sometimes  yields  70  per  cent,  pure 
lead ;  much  was  exported  in  the  ore 
state  for  want  of  fuel.  Latterly,  some 
smelting  and  flattening  houses  have 
been  erected  on  the  coast,  and  worked 
with  English  machinery.  Berja  is  full 
of  new  houses,  in  which  the  wives  and 
families  of  the  miners  reside ;  the  men 
are  mostly  lodged  on  the  limestone 
hill,  near  the  works.  The  Sierra  is 
honeycombed  in  all  directions,  the 
shafts  being  sunk  in  an  oblique  direc- 
tion ;  the  working  is  injurious  to 
health,  affecting  the  teeth  and  bowels. 
The  miners  occupy  rude  stone  huts; 
their  food,  and  even  water,  is  brought 
up  to  them.  No  women  or  dogs  are 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  hill.  At  the 
edge  of  the  Gador  is  an  old  Phoeni- 
cian mine  called  La  Sabinaj  about 
which  infinite  fables  are  current.  The 
miners  are  ignorant  and  superstitious ; 
working  in  the  dark  underground,  they 
naturally  are  less  enlightened  than 
those  Spaniards  who  live  in  the  bright 
world. 

Berja  is  also  full  of  asses  and  mules, 
on  which  the  ore  is  carried  to  the  sea- 
port, Adra — Aladra,  Arabic^  Virgin — 
2  L.  In  spite  of  the  traffic,  the  roads 
are  iniquitous,  and  have  always  been 
so,  for,  said  a  Moorish  poet  of  these 
localities,  "  There  is  no  remedy  to  the 
traveller  but  to  stop ;  the  valleys  are 
gardens  of  Eden,  but  the  roads  those 
of  hell  J "  as,  indeed,  are  most  of  those 
of  Andalucia,  the  paradiso  of  poets, 
the  inferno  of  donkeys.  Winding 
along  this  mule-track,  down  a  gorge  of 
a  river,  we  reach  Alqueria^  and  thence 
through  sugar -plantations  arrive  at 
Adra,  Posada  nueva.  Afih^a  was  a 
town  founded  by  the  Phoenicians 
(Strabo,  iii.  236),  and  placed  judi- 
ciously on  the  hill  the  Monte  Cristo. 
The  modem  portion,  built  below,  is 
constantly  exposed  to  fearful  inun- 
dations from  the  river  Adra,  and  to 
the  agues  bred  by  its  swamps,  all  of 
which  might  be  obviated  by  proper 
dykes    and  dams    which    shoidd    be 


332 


ROUTES  27,  28. — ADRA — ^MOTRIL. 


Sect.  III. 


placed  higher  up.  The  port  is  tolerable, 
but  exposed  to  the  W.  The  sea  once 
came  up  to  the  walls  of  the  Moorish 
castle,  but  has  retired.  From  the 
watch-tower,  la  Torre  de  la  Vela^  a 
tocsin  rang  out  a  simimons  to  arms  on 
the  approach  of  African  pirates,  but 
now  cannon  and  every  means  of  de- 
fence are  wanting.  Pop.  about  8000. 
Some  smelting-works  have  been  esta- 
blished here  by  Heredia  and  others,  on 
the  English  principle. 

Malaga  lies  27  L.  to  the  W.  of  Adra. 

RouTB  27. — Adba  to  Malaga. 

Oualchofl 1 

Motril 3  ..  10 

SalobreHa 1  ..  11 

AlmufSecar  .     .     .     .     .  3  ..  14 

Torroz 4  ..  18 

Velez  Malaga   .     .     .     .  4  . .  22 

Malaga 6  ..  27 

From  Adra  the  leagues  are  long  and 
wearisome,  but  we  rode  in  one  day  to 
Motril.  Passing  the  fine  English 
smelting-houses,  we  reach  La  Rahitd^ 
a  sort  of  port  to  AUmnoly  which  lies 
inland  1  L.,  and  is  most  rich  in  wines, 
raisins,  and  brandies :  the  latter  are 
exported  yiH  Rahitd  to  XereZy  to  suit 
the  "  neat  as  imported  "  compounds  to 
Britannic  palates.  The  new  road  from 
Qranada  to  Motril  is  to  pass  near 
Albuuol,  and,  if  it  ever  be  finished, 
will  facilitate  its  exports.  Now  the 
sands  become  African.  The  fishermen, 
dusky  as  Moors,  dwell  in  chozas,  Ara- 
bice  "  huts  made  of  reeds."  The  long 
range  of  grape  hills  commences  near 
OfialehoSf  whence  a  very  steep  track 
amid  vines  leads  to  Motril^  which  lies 
below  in  its  green  vega  of  rich  allu- 
vial soil.  The  region  is  ftdl  of 
fish  and  fruit.  The  amphibious  agri- 
cultural population  about  12,000.  The 
posada  is  decent.  The  road  continues 
to  coast  the  sea  to  Salohreuay  the  city 
of  Salambo  (Astarte),  and  once  the 
important  Moorish  town  Shal^ibaniah, 
and  now  dwindled  to  a  hamlet ;  the 
rock-built  castle,  in  which  the  Moslem 
guarded  his  treasures,  is  now  a  ruin, 
and  the  present  poverty  needs  no  store- 
'  ouse. 


Almutiecar,  the  al  Munnecab,  Ara- 
bic^ "  the  gorge,"  of  the  Moors,  pop. 
5000,  has  a  somewhat  exposed  port 
and  a  ruined  castle.  Here  sugar  and 
cotton,  azttcar  y  algodon  (9ucar, 
coton,  Moorish  things  and  names), 
yet  remain,  and  great  efforts  are 
making  to  extend  their  cultm'e.  The 
soil  in  the  valley  is  very  rich,  being 
formed  of  the  detritus  of  the  hills  and 
alluvial  deposits,  and  under  the  Moor 
the  district  was  a  golden  strip,  and 
studded  far  beyond  Malaga  with  towns 
and  cities.  Now  dehesas  y  despO' 
hlados  attest  the  dominion  of  the 
G-otho  conqueror.  For  Velez  Malaga, 
see  p.  288.  Those  who  wish  to  return 
to  G-ranada  from  Motril,  instead  of 
going  to  Malaga,  may  take  this  line. 

BouTE  28. — MoTEiL  TO  Gbanada. 

Velez  de  Benaudalla   .     .  4 

Rio  Grande 2*  . .  6i 

PinoB  del  Rey    .     .     .     .  2  . .  8i 

Padul 3  ..  Hi 

Granada .     .     .     .     .     .  3  ..  U\ 

A  new  road  is  making  from  Ghror 
nada  to  Motril.  Leaving  Motril, 
ascend  the  Sierra  de  Lujar,  with  fine 
sea-views,  and  thence  to  Velez  de 
Benaudailay — ^Belad,  "  the  land  of  the 
children  of  Audalla  j "  it  is  generally 
called  Velezillo  :  pop.  3000.  The  Sio 
Qrandey  a  "large  river"  in  rainy 
times,  and  a  small  one  at  others,  joins 
the  Ouadalfeo  near  this  hamlet :  the 
castle  is  picturesque  on  its  knoll. 
Now  ride  on  to  ia,  mill,  where  an 
artist  might  linger  a  week.  Some  olive- 
trees,  planted  by  the  Moors,  are  gi- 
gantic. Soon  after  the  road  branches, 
and  a  short  cut  to  the  rt.,  by  a  wild 
river,  leads  to  Durcal,  and  thence  by 
Granada ;  we  took  this  route  as  saving 
4  L.  The  fmrther  and  fairer  way  goes 
round  by  the  picturesque  valley  of 
Finos  del  Rey. 

The  districts  lying  to  the  E.  and 
N.E.  of  Adra  are  of  the  highest  in- 
terest to  the  botanist  and  geologist ; 
being  almost  virgin  ground,  they  are 
strongly  recommended  to  travellers 
ambitious  to  "book  something  new." 


Ronda  5*  Granada. 


ROUTE  29. — ALMERIA. 


333 


The  maritime  and  rugged  proyince  of 
AlmeHa,  of  some  220  square  L.,  con- 
sists cbieflj  of  ramifications  &om  the 
Sierras.  Theroads  and  accommodations 
are  bad.  The  population,  some  300,000, 
is  just  now  running  mining  mad ;  neg- 
lecting agriculture,  the  real  wealth  of 
this  region  of  fruit  and  fertility.     The 
evidences  of  Tolcanic  disturbances  are 
very  frequent.     The  excursion  is,  how- 
ever,  one  of  some  hardship,   and  it 
must  be  ridden.     "  Attend  to  the  pro- 
vend,"   and  take  a  local  guide  m}m 
time  to  time,  especially  if  the  expe- 
dition be  prolonged  to  the  forest  of 
Segura  and  the  lead-mines  of  lAnares, 
near  Ubeda.     The  following  route  is 
recommended ;    where  an  asterisk  is 
placed,  the  distances  cannot  be  exactly 
stated ;    indeed,  in  the  mountain  and 
forest  country  the  leagues  are  conven- 
tional and  mere  guesswork.     It  vnll 
be  always  advisable  in  each  place  to 
apply  to  the  cura  or  the  alcalde  in  any 
case  of  difficulty. 

Route  29. — Adba  to  Caetagena. 

Adra 

Dallas 3 

Roquetas  ....  4 

Almerla 4 

Tabemas 6 

Mojacar  .     .  ...  6 

Vera 2 

Pulji 4 

Puerto  de  las  Agullas  .     .  3 

Algarrobillo      ....  2 

Almazarron 4 

Cartagena 6 

Dalias  is  a  poor  place,  liable  to 
earthquake,  and  dreary  is  its  sandy 
plain,  el  Campo,  which  might  easily 
be  irrigated :  Moquetas  and  the  coast 
are  no  better.  Almeria  —  Murges, 
Portus  Magnus  of  the  ancients,  Air 
Meryah,  Arabicd,  "the  conspicuous." 
Inns:  Fonda  de  los  Vapores^  Fonda 
Malaguejia.  Under  both  Roman  and 
Moor  it  was  the  "  great  port "  of  traffic 
with  Italy  and  the  East,  and  one  of  the 
richest  manufacturing  towns.  Under 
its  Moorish  independent  chief,  Ibn 
Maymtin,  it  was  a  perfect  Algiers,  a 
pirate  port  and  pest,  whose  galleys 
ravaged  the  coasts  of  France  and  Italy. 


Then,  according  to  the  proverb,  Gra- 
nada was  merely  its  farm  j   "  Cuando 
Almeria  era  Almeria^  Chranada  era  su 
alqueria."     Indeed  the  site  is  a  bosom 
of  plenty,  as  the  luxuriant  figs  and 
cactus  testify.  It  was  taken  by  the  Spa- 
niards, Oct.  16,  1147,  chiefly  by  means 
of  the  Genoese,  who  were  anxious  to 
abate  this  worse  piratical  nuisance  than 
even   Tortosa.      See  a  most  curious 
Latin  Leonine  poem  on  this  conquest. 
Esp.  Sag.  xxi.  399.    TJie  Genoese  ob- 
tained for  their  sole  reward  the  dish 
out  of  which  the  Saviour  is  said  to  have 
eaten  the  last  supper.    The  Spaniards 
appropriated  the  town  and  the  glory  to 
themselves ;  and  the  region  under  their 
rule  is  no  longer,  as  sang  its  Arabian 
eulogist,  "a  land  where,  if  thou  walkest, 
the  stones  are  pearls,  the  dust  gold, 
and  the  gardens  paradise."     The  town 
is  walled  in  with  forts  to  the  seaboard. 
The  houses  are  small,  the  women  and 
climate  African :    pop.  about  20,000. 
Some  bustle  is  given  to  the  decay  since 
the  introduction   of  steamers,   which 
touch  here  up  and  down.   The  remains 
of  the  bold  picturesque  Moorish  castle 
of  Keyran,  now  called  the  Alcazaba, 
command   the    town,    and    were    re- 
paired by  Charles  Y.,  who  there  hung 
a  bell  to  give  warning  of  piratical  de- 
scents.    The  walls  at   the  back  and 
beyond  La  Olla  are  very  picturesque, 
running  up  and  down  the  declivities. 
The  port  is  without  a  mole,  yet  the 
vestiges  of   one    constructed   by  the 
Moors  might  have  suggested  such  an 
absolutely  necessary  improvement,  and 
recently  a  pier  has  been  projected,  on 
paper  only,  although  there  is  a  paid 
junta  for  the  purpose,  and  plenty  of 
the  ^est  stone  close  at  hand — cosas 
de  Sspaua.     The  former  atarazana^f 
or  dockyards,  may  also  be  traced.    Al- 
meria is  a  chief  town  of  the  district, 
and  residence  of  petty  authorities,  who 
— se  dice — get  wealthy  by  encouraging 
smuggling  nrom  Gibraltar.  It  has  a  Go- 
thic cathedral  with  an  unfinished  tower, 
and  is  almost  a  castle,  having  been  built 
so  strong  in  order  to  resist  the  pirates ; 
notice     a     rich     Corinthian    £ei9ade, 
and  medallions  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 


334 


ROUTE  29.— ADRA  TO  CARTAGENA. 


Sect.  III. 


Paul;  the  interior  is  whitewashed; 
observe,  however,  the  fine  marbles  in 
the  pulpits  and  altars,  especially  one 
in  the  chapel  of  La  Virgen  del  Carmen. 
The  painted  and  gilt  medallions  are  in 
good  cinque-cento  taste.  Sq/ntiago  is 
said  to  have  disembarked  here  A.D.  37, 
whereat  the  Ghdhcians  and  Arragonese, 
each  of  whom  swears  that  the  apostle 
first  disembarked  in  their  coimtry,  are 
much  vexed :  and,  as  he  never  came  to 
Spain  at  all,  who  shall  decide  ?  The 
inhabitants  of  Almeria  are  subject  to 
eye-complaints. 

About  2  L.  in  the  Sierra  are  the 
much-frequented  baths  of  Alhamilla; 
there  are  two  seasons, — ^from  May  1  to 
June  30,  and  from  Sept.  1  to  the  end 
of  October.  The  site  is  delicious,  and 
the  views  charming;  so  much  for 
nature.  The  bathing  and  social  ac- 
commodations very  bad ;  so  much  for 
the  natives.  The  commerce  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Almeria  consists  principally  in 
the  produce  of  the  lead-mines,  and  the 
esparto  and  barrilla,  of  which  quan- 
tities grow  on  the  plains.  The  arbol 
de  tinte,  a  sort  of  acacia^  fix)m  which 
a  dye  is  made,  flourishes  here.  The 
geologist  will,  of  course,  visit  SI  Cdbo 
de  Oatttj  the  "  Cape  Agate,"  distant 
15  m.  S.E.  This  is  the  ancient  Pro- 
montorium  Charidemi,  a  word  derived 
by  Bochart  (Can.  i.  34)  frx)m  the  Punic 
char-adem,  caput  sardii,  the  sardonyx, 
Arabic^  Kheyran.  It  is  a  rock  formed 
of  crystals,  spars,  and  agates,  of  8  L. 
by  5  L.  in  extent.  Yisit  the  cavern  in 
the  Montana  del  Sujo,  where  ame- 
thysts are  found.  The  evidences  of 
volcanic  disturbance  are  very  clear :  the 
conical  Moron  de  loa  G-enoveses^  some 
300  feet  high,  has  clearly  been  thrown 
up;  many  similar  cerros  exist.  The 
Vela  hlanca  is  a  white  spot,  a  land- 
mark to  travellers  on  this  windy  cape, 
since,  according  to  the  nautical  adage, 
"  At  Cape  de  Qat,  take  care  of  your 
hat."  Other  knobs  have  a  religious 
nomenclature  common  in  Spain,  such 
as  ^^ JEl  Sacristan"  and  ** Ix>8  dos 
Frailes"  equivalent  to  our  "parson 
and  clerk,"  "  devil's  peaks,"  &c.  Those 
going  to  Cartagena,  who  dislike  steam 


conveyance,  may  ride  across  the  sandy 
coast,  provided  they  can  face  insects, 
and  fleas  especially. 

This  route  is  very  uninteresting,  and 
the  accommodation  wretched.  The 
coast  continues  studded  with  watch- 
tower  atalayaSf  and  the  plains  produce 
esparto  and  soda-plants.  The  route 
runs  inland  to  Tabemas^  leaving  Cabo 
de  Qata  to  the  rt. ;  it  comes  out  on 
the  sea  near  Mojacar,  Murgis  acra, 
the  promontory  on  its  spur  of  the 
Sierra  de  Cabrera^  with  its  ruined 
castle  and  pretty  glorieta  walk.  Hence 
to  Vera.  Barea — ^the  "  end "  of  the 
Tarraconese  division  —  is  a  seaport 
from  whence  are  exported  the  com, 
barrilla,  esparto,  &c.,  of  the  rich  envi- 
rons. The  climate  is  delicious ;  hie 
ver  perpetuum :  pop.  above  8000. 
Hence  cross  over  the  Almanzoray  the 
"river  of  victory,"  often  vrith  no  water 
in  it,  by  the  Cortijo  de  Pulpi  to  el 
Puerto  de  las  Aguilas,  a  small  place 
so  called  from  a  rock  at  the  entrance 
of  the  nicely  protected  harbour,  which 
resembles  the  head  and  beak  of  an  eagle. 
The  town  consists  of  two  intersecting 
streets,  which  nestle  at  the  foot  of  a 
rock  and  castle,  destined  in  1766  by 
Charles  III.  as  the  port  of  the  country 
up  to  Murcia.  A  carriageable  road 
communicates  hence  to  Lorca,  5  L. : 
the  character  of  the  country  is  cal- 
cined and  barren,  save  the  Esparto 
and  Palmito  weeds.  Ahnazarron  is 
an  industrious  place :  pop.  some  5000. 
The  land  and.  sea  afibrd  occupation. 
From  the  number  of  ruins  discovered 
in  the  vicinity,  this  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  site  of  an  important 
Carthaginian  settlement.  In  the  Sierra 
of  Ahnazarron  silver  ores  occur,  while 
from  the  hill  San  Cristobal  alum  is 
extracted,  and  the  red  earth,  almagra^ 
which  is  used  for  rubbing  Merino 
sheep,  polishing  mirrors,  and  mixed 
with  the  red  rappee  snuff  of  Seville. 
The  friable  rock  is  first  roasted,  and 
then  slaked.  When  the  aliun  is  de- 
posited in  solution,  the  residue  after 
evaporation  is  the  almagra,  which, 
according  to  Captain  Widdrington,  \a 
a  silicate  of  iron,  according  to  others 


Rmda  Sf  Granada,    route  30. — ^almeria  to  jaen. 


335 


an  oxide.     Much  barrilla  is  made  here, 
and  burnt  with  the  slirubs   of  these 
timberless  plains.      Crossing  the  Al- 
manzora  to  the  1.,  li  L.,  is  the  silver- 
pregnant  Sierra  de  Almagrera.     The 
mines  were  discovered  by  a  poor  weaver 
who,  under  the  pretence  of  shooting, 
passed  his   days  here,   until   near    a 
ridge  or  dip  (klled  el  Barranco  Ja- 
ro80   he    found  specimens;  these  he 
carried    to    Granada    and     Cordova 
to  be  assayed,   when  they  proved  to 
be  galena  or  argentiferous  lead  :  being 
utterly    without    money,   he   at    last 
confided    his    secret  to  Don  Miguel 
Soler,    proprietor    of    the  land,   and 
the   real  discoverer  according  to  Ma- 
doz,   to    whose    account   and  details 
the  traveller  is   referred,   as  also  to 
the  excellent  work  on  La  Inchtstria 
Jjdinera  by  JEzquerra  del  Bayo.     Soler 
formed  a  club  of  12  friends,  who  making 
a  purse  of  about  100^.,  proceeded  to 
obtain  a  legal  grant  of  the  site,  and 
employed   a  competent  engineer:  on 
the  21st  of  April,  1839,  a  rich  lode 
was  discovered  about  50  feet  below  the 
earth.     This  bonanza  or  godsend  was 
called  La  Carmen,  in  honour  of  the 
Yirgin,  as  sole  dispenser  of  the  boun- 
ties of  heaven.     The  shares  soon  rose 
from  150  dollars  to  60,000.    Indeed, 
1800  arrobas  of  ore,  of  25  lbs.  each, 
were  raised  per  d^,  even  with  the 
rudest  machinery.    This  sudden  acqui- 
sition of  wealth  attracted  thousands 
of    competitors    to    "the    diggings," 
and  what  a  few  years  ago  was  a  wild 
and    dreary  waste    is    now    studded 
with    buildings,    traced    into    roads, 
crowded  with  labourers  and  smelting- 
furnaces.     To  complete  the  works,  a 
draining  company  has  been  fiormed  for 
the  purpose  of  opening  an  adit,  now 
nearly  completed.    The  outlet  is  on  a 
level  with  the  sea,  and  the  line  will 
communicate  with  that  part  of  the 
Sierra  which    contains  the   principal 
mass  of  ore,  a  distance  estimated  at 
2200  yards.     These- mines  were  cer- 
tainly worked  by  the  ancients,  but  long 
remained  among  the  many  treasures 
buried  in  the  Spanish  nation,  until  re- 
discovered by  sheer  accident :  here  first 


appeared  that  germ  of  mining  and 
gambhng  madness  with  which  Spain 
and  the  whole  modem  world  seem 
infected.  The  original  discoverer  died  a 
pauper,  without  even  a  room  in  a  poor 
or  an  alms-house,  while  the  Carthagi- 
nians erected  a  temple  to  the  San 
Aletes,  by  whom  these  identical  ores 
were  first  found  (Polyb.  x.  10). 

From  Almeria  there  is  a  cross  but 
carriageable  road  to  Guadix  15  L., 
through  Biafay  Ocaiia,  and  Finana, 


Route  30. — Almebia  to  Jaen. 

Almeria 

Rioja 4 

Senes 

Macael 2 

Purchena li 

Baza *l 

Orcera 4 

Segura 5 

Homos 3 

Iznatorafe 3 

Ubeda 6 

Baeza 1 

Linares 3 

Mengibar 4 

Jaen '3 

This  circuit,  interesting  to  the  natu- 
ralist, runs  through  an  almost  terra 
incognita.  The  leagues  are  long  and 
uncertain,  the  conmiimications  and 
accommodations  rough  in  the  extreme. 
It  is,  however,  a  voyage  of  discovery 
well  deserving  to  be  undertaken,  and  on 
which  further  information  is  much  re- 
quested for  this  Handbook. 

Macael,  poorly  bmlt  amid  the  finest 
materials,  lies  under  the  Sierra  de  Fila^ 
hres,  wheiice  the  view  over  the  country 
is  singular,  as  it  resembles  a  stormy  sea 
suddenly  petrified.  Macael  is  one 
block  of  white  marble,  whence  were 
extracted  the  thousands  of  pillars 
which  the  Moors  raised  in  the  patios 
of  Seville  and  Granada ;  now,  in  the 
pining  atrophy  and  marasmus,  they  are 
scarcely  worked.  Furchena  is  historic- 
ally interesting,  as  being  the  town  to 
which  Boabdil  retired,  it  having  been 
assigned  to  him  as  his  petty  estate,  and 
part  of  his  alcazar  still  remains.  For 
Baza,  see  p.  343.  Thence  a  bold  loyer 
of  natural  history  may  strike  to  the  Pozo 


336 


ROUTE  30. — ^UBEDA — ^BAEZA. 


Sect.  III. 


del  AlcoHf  where  the  pine  forests  com- 
mence.      Hence    to    Cazorla^    which 
forms   one  point   of  a  triangle  with 
I*uebla  de  Don  Fahrique^  distant  15  L. 
The  roads  are  iniquitous  in  these  tan- 
gled groves  of  fine  oaks  and  pines.    At 
Orcera  was  the  gOTemmental  establish- 
ment of  woods  and  forests,  whence  the 
arsenals  of  Cadiz  were  supplied*  but 
the  noble  buildings  were  all  burnt  by 
the  French.      The  forest  of    Segura^ 
Saltus  Tigiensis,  extends  about  80  L.  by 
60.     The  visitor  should  apply  to  the 
resident  authorities  for  permission  to 
explore  the  localities,  stating  frankly 
his  objects  j   otherwise  his  arrival  will 
create  an  infinite  hubbub,  and  he  will 
be  exposed  to  every  sort  of  suspicion 
and    inconvenience.      The   Guadiana, 
which  flows  into  the  Q-uadalquivir,  is 
useful  for  floating  down  timber.     The 
forest  is  sadly  neglected  and  ill-used ; 
game  of  all  kinds  abounds,  and  wolves 
are  so  numerous  that  sheep  can  scarcely 
be  kept. 

Passing  through  a  fertile  well- 
watered  country  is  Vheda^  built  on  an 
oUve-clad  slope  by  the  Moors,  with  the 
materials  of  the  Boman  Bsetula,  now 
Ubeda  la  Vieja.  Ubeda  was  taken  by 
Alonso  YIII.  eight  days  after  the 
victory  of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa.  The 
Spaniard,  writing  to  Innocent  III., 
stated  that  it  "  then  contained  70,000 
Moors,  of  whom  many  were  put  to 
death,  and  the  rest  made  slaves  to 
build  convents  in  Spain,  and  the  city 
razed  to  the  ground."  When  these 
Christian  destroyers  retired,  the  Infidels 
rebuilt  Ubeda.  But  the  ill-fated  town 
was  again  taken  by  St.  Ferdinand  on 
Michaelmas-day,  1239.  Hence  the  city 
arms — gules,  that  Archangel,  with  an 
orle,  argent,  of  twelve  hons,  gules. 
Ubeda  contains  about  15,000  inhabit- 
ants, principally  agriculturists. 

Here  are  excellent  specimens  of 
Pedro  de  Valdelvira,  an  architect  of 
the  sixteenth  century,  and  second  only 
to  Berruguete.  The  cathedral,  once 
the  mosque,  has  been  built  into  a  Co- 
rinthian temple,  in  a  style  similar  to 
those  of  Jaen  and  Granada.  Near 
the  high  altar  was  buried  Don  Bel- 


tran  de  la  Cueva,  the  reputed  father 
of  La  Beltraneja,  the    rival  to  Isa- 
bella the  CathoUc.     The  Maecenas  of 
Ubeda  was  Francisco    de  los   Cobos, 
secretary  to  Charles  V.    He  brought 
from    Italy    Juho    and    Alessandro, 
pupils    of  Jean    de    Udina,    to    de- 
corate   his    house    with    arabesques. 
The    mansion,  cruelly   degraded,  still 
exists  in  the  parish  Santo  Tomas.     He 
also  employed  Pedro  de  Valdelvira,  in 
1540,  to  biuld  the  beautiful  San  Sal- 
vador,    The  stone  is  of  a  bad  colour, 
and  the  iijterior  has  been  overgilt  and 
altered.  Observe  the  Portal  del  Llano^ 
and  the  entrance  and  inside  of  the  rich 
sacristia  :    walk  by  the  pretty  delicias 
to  the  CadenaSf  or  convent  of  Domi- 
nican nuns,  built  in  1566  by  Vasquez  de 
Molina,  sec.  to  Philip  II. ;  the  fei^ade 
is  by  Valdelvira  ;   the  hospital  is  a  fine 
building :  observe  the  tower,  the  clois- 
ter, and  the  minute  bassi-relievi  on  the 
retahlo.     The  funds  have  long  been 
misapplied,  and  the  mismanagement  is 
complete.    Visit  the  Lonja,  and  the 
buildings  in  the  JSxido — the  "  Exodus," 
or  place  of  departure  for  Baeza,  distant 
1  L.     There  is  a  profusion  of  water, 
and  fertility  is  everywhere  the  conse- 
quence ;  indeed,  the  whole  of  the  Zowas 
de  Ubeda  is  some  of  the  finest  land  in 
the  world.     Under  the  Moors  it  was 
densely  peopled,  and  a  granary ;  now 
much  is  despoblado  and  neglected,  and 
the  people  dull  and  backward  ;  indeed, 
since  the  days  of  Don  Quixote  (ii.  33), 
ir  por  los  cerros  de  Ubeda  is  equivalent 
to  going  out  of  your  way  or  talking 
nonsense,  and  the  roads  are  some  of 
the  very  worst  in  Spain. 

Baeza — Beatia  Bsecula — is  the  spot 
where  Scipio  the  younger  routed  As- 
drubal  (r.  c.  545),  killing  8000  Car- 
thaginians, and  taking  10,000  Spa- 
niards prisoners  (Livy,  xxvii.  18). 
Under  the  Moors  it  became  a  flour- 
ishing town  of  30,000  souls.  It  was 
taken  and  sacked  by  St.  Ferdinand 
in  1239,  and  has  never  become  again 
what  it  once  was.  The  miserable 
Moors  took  refuge  in  the  Albaicin 
of  Granada.  Baeza  is  a  handsome 
town,    vdth    old    walls    and  towers, 


Bonda  ^  Granada,     route  30. — baeza — ^linares. 


337 


of  which  the  Aliaiares  is  the  finest. 
Pop.  about  4000.  There  is  a  good 
new  posada  in  what  was  the  Fran- 
ciscan convent.  The  noble  buildings 
of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  now 
deserted  halls,  bear  record  of  former 
importance.  The  position,  on  a  lofty 
loma,  with  pure  air,  rich  plains,  and 
abundance  of  water,  is  well  chosen. 
All  this  rich  district  fell  in  1810  at 
once  into  Soult's  grasp  from  the  mis- 
conduct of  the  Spaniards  under  Oas- 
tejon.  The  principal  edifices  are  the 
oratorio  of  San  Felipe  Neri,  the  grand 
patio  and  staircase  of  the  university, 
the  fountain  with  caryatides  in  the 
Plaza,  and  the  cinque-cento  gates  of 
Cordova  and  Baeza.  The  cathedral  is 
joined  with  that  of  Jaen,  under  the 
same  mitre.  It  was  modernised  in 
1587,  and  dedicated  to  the  "  birth  of 
the  Yipgin."  This  mystery  is  repre- 
sented in  a  basso-reUevo  by  Jeronimo 
Prado,  over  the  classical  portal.  The 
chapel  of  San  Jose  is  in  excellent  plate- 
resque.  It  was  for  this  cathedral  that 
Francisco  Merino,  one  of  the  best  silver- 
workers  of  Spain  (obiit  1594),  made  a 
magnificent  custodia. 

But  the  pride  of  Baeza  was  the 
being  the  birthplace  of  the  11,000 
virgins  commonly  called  of  Cologne, 
but  who  were  Spanish,  according  to 
Vilches,  in  his  '  SantuarioSf*  i.  28,  26. 
These  ladies,  reaUy  bom  in  Cornwall 
about  the  year  453,  were  daughters  of 
one  Nothus,  a  great  lord,  and  the  Bas- 
tards are  still  among  the  best  bom  in 
the  West  of  England.  Some  sceptical 
critics  contend  that  the  eleven  thou- 
sand were  in  reality  only  twins,  and  by 
name  Ursula  and  UndecimiUa ;  others 
assert  that  the  mistake  arose  from  the 
abbreviations  of  an  old  manuscript, 
"Ursula  et  XI.  M.  V.,"  meaning 
simply,  Ursula  and  eleven  martyr  vir- 
gins. At  the  same  time,  there  must 
have  been  many  thousands  of  them, 
more  perhaps  than  at  present,  since 
there  is  scarcely  a  reUcario  in  Spain 
which  cannot  boast  a  virgin,  or  two  of 
them,  while  the  numbers  in  Germany 
and  Italy  are  still  more  astounding. 

The  celebrated  sculptor,  Gaspar  Be* 
eerra^  was  boni  at  Baeza  in  1520. 

Spain. — I. 


lAnares — Hellanes — is  placed  in  a 
pleasant  plain  under  the  Sierra  Mo- 
rena,  with  an  abundance  of  fertilising 
streams :  population  under  7000.  It 
was  celebrated  in  antiquity  for  its 
mines  of  copper  and  lead,  which  are 
still  very  productive,  especially  those 
of  Los  Airayanes,  Alamillos,  and  La 
Cruz.  Every  day  new  shafts  are  being 
opened ;  but,  as  at  Berja,  the  working 
is  very  prejudicial  to  the  miner's 
health.  About  half  a  L.  distant  is  the 
supposed  site  of  Castulo  or  Cazlona, 
where  mutilated  sculpture  is  frequently 
found  and  neglected.  At  Palaztielos 
are  the  presumed  ruins  of  the  "palace" 
of  Himilce,  the  rich  wife  of  Hannibal, 
and  near  is  the  site  of  the  great  battle 
won  by  Scipio  (Livy,  xxiv.  41).  The 
fine  fountain  of  Linares  is  supposed  to 
be  a  remnant  of  the  Boman  work 
which  was  connected  with  Castulo.  N. 
of  Linares,  and  about  5  miles  from 
Carolina,  in  the  Cerro  de  ValdeinfiemOj 
are  certain  ancient  mines,  which  still 
are  called  Los  Pozos  de  Anibal.  The 
geologist  may  strike  on  to  Vilches,  a 
small  place  with  2000  souls,  placed  in 
the  midst  of  neglected  mines  of  copper 
and  silver.  The  wild  shooting  in  all 
this  district  of  Las  Nuevas  Pohla- 
clones  is  good,  so  also  is  the  fishing 
in  the  QuadaUn^  Cfnarrizaz,  and  Gua- 
dalima^. 

The  two  towns  of  Baeza  and  Linares, 
only  3  L.  apart,  as  is  common  in  un- 
amalgamating  Spain,  do  not  love  their 
n«ghbour.  JBaeza  quiere  jpares,  y  no 
guiere  lAnares. 

The  traveller  may  either  strike  up 
to  Bailen,  2  L.,  or  return  to  Granada 
by  Jaen — 2  L.  to  the  Yenta  de  Don 
Juan,  and  1  L.  to  the  bridge  over  the 
Guadalquivir  at  Mengibar,  and  thence 
4  most  dreary  L.  to  Jaen.  See  Index 
for  details. 

The  communications  from  Granada 
will  be  found  in  the  preceding  pages  : 
to  Jaen,  E-te.  16 ;  to  Cordova,  Ete.  14 ; 
to  Seville,  by  Osuna,  E-te.  13;  to 
Eonda,  by  Antequera,  Ete.  21 ;  to 
Malaga,  by  Alhama,  Ete.  25;  or  by 
Loja,  Ete.  13.  There  now  remains 
the  Eoute  to  Murcia  and  the  Eastern 
provinces.    . 


(     338     )  S^t.  IV. 


SECTION  IV. 

THE  KINGDOM  OF  MURCIA. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 
ROUTE  31.— GRANADA  TO  MUBCIA     342 

Guadix;  Lorca;  Murcia. 

ROUTE  32. — MUBCIA  TO  MADRID  .  .    348 

ROUTE  33. — MURCIA  TO  CARTAGENA  349 

Mines,  ancient  and  modem. 

ROUTE  34. — CARTAGENA  TO  ALI- 
CANTE   351 

Orihnela ;  Elche ;  Alicante. 


Page 
ROUTE  35. — EliCHE  TO  MADRID  •  •  .  352 

ROUTE  36. — ELCHE  TO  XATIVA  • .  .  353 

ROUTE  37.— ELCHE  TO  ALICANTE  .  354 

ROUTE  38. — ALICANTE  TO  XATIVA    355 

Castalla:  Alcoy;  Xatlva. 

ROUTE  39. — XATIVA  TO  VALENCIA  359 


The  petty  Beino  de  Murcia  contains  about  660  square  L.     It  is  of  an  irregular 

shape,  about  25  L.  long  by  23  broad,  and  is  bounded  to  the  E.  by  Valencia,  to 

the  N.  by  Cuenca  and  La  Mancha,  to  the  W.  by  Granada,  and  to  the  S.  by  the 

Mediterranean.    It  is  thinly  peopled  and  very  dry :  drought,  indeed,  is  the  local 

curse :  and  frequently  for  many  months  in  succession,  not  one  drop  of  rain 

falls  on  the  parched,  riverless  portions.    Man  and  nature  are  withered  up ;  dust 

returns  to  dust,  and  all  becomes  a  desert.  The  artificial  remedies,  the  Presas  and 

FantanoSf  and  methods  of  irrigation  introduced  by  the  intelligent,  industrious 

Moors  are  well  worth  notice.   (Consult  the  Memoria,  by  Rafael  de  Miranda,  8vo. 

1836.)    Where  they  exist  under  this  ardent  sun,  the  well- watered  portions  and 

Huertas  compensate  by  their  prodigious  fertility,  producing  the  palm,  orange, 

and  carob  tree,  silk,  soda,  bass-grass,  red  peppers,  and  wines.    The  mineralogy 

is  most  interesting,  especially  in  the  mining  districts  near  Cartagena.  The  b^t 

line  of  route  is  that  which  comprehends  Lorca,  Murcia,  Cartagena,  Elche, 

and  Alicante.    The  springs  and  autumns  are  the  fittest  seasons  for  travelling ; 

the  former  are  all  flower,  the  latter  all  fruit.  Murcia  was  the  cherished  province 

of  the  Carthaginians,  and  was  destined  by  them  to  replace  their  loss  of  Sicily, 

as  it  contain^  those  mines  which  enabled  the  family  of  Hannibal  to  war 

against  Rome  itself.  The  Goths  of  Murcia  made  honourable  resistance  against 

the  Moors,  and  their  leader,  Theodimir — Tadmir  Ben  Gohdos — was  allowed  to 

retain  an  independent  sovereignty  during  his  life ;  hence  the  province  was 

called  Belad  Tadmir^  a  word  often  confounded  with   Tadmor,  a  country  of 

palms,  which  do  indeed  flourish  here.    Under  the  Moors  Mursiah  became 

one  continuous  **  garden,"  and  hence  was  called  El  Boston,  and  sometimes 

Misr,  Egypt,  to  which  it  was  compared.    When  the  Kalifate  of  the  Ummeyahs 

was  broken  up,  Mursiah  split  off  into  an  independent  state  under  the  Beni-Tahir 

famil]r>  which  ruled  from  1038  to  1091 ;  after  this,  internal  dissensions  led  to 

^e  triumph  of  the  9|MiniardB.    The  Moorish  Murcians  were re|>ated  to  be  ob- 


Murcia,  mines — esparto.  339 

stinate  and  disobedient ;  and  the  province,  lying  in  an  out-of-the-way  comer,  is 
still  considered  by  Spaniards  to  be  the  Boeotia  of  the  south.  Thus  in  schoolless 
Murcia,  Murtia^  the  pagan  goddess  of  apathy  and  ignorance,  has  long  ruled, 
and  rules,  undisturbed  and  undisputed.  Few  men  in  anywise  illustrious,  have 
ever  been  produced  by  this  Dunciad  province.  The  lower  classes,  chiefly 
agricultural,  are  alternately  sluggish  and  laborious.  Their  physiognomy  is 
African,  and  many  have  migrated  latterly  to  congenial  Algeria.  Superstitious, 
litigious,  and  revengeful,  they  remark  of  themselves  and  province,  that  the 
heaven  and  earth  are  good,  but  all  that  is  between  them  is  bad.  El  cielo  y  suelo 
ea  bueno — el  entresuelo  malo.  The  littoral  plains,  especially  about  Cartagena  and 
Alicante,  are  much  subject  to  earthquakes,  and  are  rendered  insalubrious  by 
salt-marshes.  The  salt  made  from  them  is  chiefly  shipped  to  the  Baltic.  The 
soda-plant  grows  abundantly :  of  the  four  kinds — the  barilla,  algazal,  sosa,  and 
salicor — the  first  is  the  best.  It  is  a  low-tufted  spreading  bush,  of  a  greenish 
colour,  ripening  into  a  dull  browfl.  The  plants,  when  dry,  are  burnt  on  iron 
gratings  over  pits:  and  the  valine  particles  sink  below  in  a  vitrified  mass.  An 
acre  of  barrilla  will  produce  a  ton  of  alcali,  but  it  is  an  exhausting  crop.  Here 
also  the  esparto^  the  bass  feather-grass  or  Spanish  rush,  Spartium  junceumf  genet 
cTEspagnef--  stipa-macrochloa  tenacissiraa — grows  naturally  in  vast  quantities  ; 
hence  the  district  of  Cartagena  was  called  by  the  Greeks,  ra  nrapra^tov — rg 
uvyyet^tov  vrthav,  and  by  the  Romans  Campus  Spartartua,  Juncarius,  The  name 
of  this  "  stipa-tenacissima  "  is  said  to  be  derived  from  r^uf^y  conserercy  and 
the  plant  resembles  the  «p«ar-grass  which  grows  on  the  sandy  sea-shores  of 
Lancashire.  This  thin  wiry  rush  is  still  worked  up  into  the  same  infinite 
purposes  as  are  so  accurately  described  by  Pliny  (*  N.  H.*  xix.  2)  ;  such,  as 
matting,  baskets,  soles  of  sandals,  ropes,  &c.  It  was  exported  largely  to  Italy 
(Strabo,  iii.  243).  These  are  the  Iberian  whips  of  Horace  (Epod.  iv.  3).  The 
rush,  when  cut,  is  dried  like  hay,  and  then  soaked  in  water  and  plaited,  and  is 
very  enduring ;  and  the  hand-manufacture,  as  formerly,  employs  multitudes  of 
women  and  children.  Snails,  especially  a  kind  called  Serranos^  are  much  eaten 
in  these  districts. 

The  present  section  will  include  a  portion  of  Valencia,  as  Murcia  is  quitted 
near  Orihuela ;  but  the  description  of  the  Elche,  Alicante,  and  Xativa  districts 
will,  however,  come  conveniently  to  the  traveller  who  approaches  those  regions 
from  Granada.  Murcia  is  very  ill  provided  with  roads ;  even  the  ^eat  com- 
munication between  Granada  is  but  just  carriageable,  badly  furnished  witfi 
bridges,  very  wearisome,  and  with  poor  accommodation.  The  best  plan  will 
be,  on  leaving  Granada,  to  make  an  excursion  into  the  Alpujarras  to  Almeria 
(R.  xxvi.)f  and  then  take  the  steamer  to  Cartagena.  There  is  a  good  local 
and  heraldic  history  of  Murcia,  the  *  Discursos  HtstoricoSt*  Francisco  Cascales, 
Murcia,  1621 ;  or  the  new  edition  of  1775.  Murcia,  a  metal-pregnant  district, 
at  this  moment  is  mining  mad,  for  the  Spaniard,  not  ill-disposed  in  the  abstract 
to  Mammon  worship,  has  caught  a  new  infection  from  the  foreigner  in  its 
practical  exhibition.  Some  account  of  these  mines,  ancient  and  modem,  may 
interest  those  who  love  either  to  '*  speculate,"  or  to  dig  out  the  ore  of  the  past 
from  the  rubbish  of  oblivion.  Here  the  antiquarian  will  find  the  identical 
shafts  of  the  Carthaginians  reopened,  after  a  discontinuance  of  so  many  cen- 
turies :  and  the  same  districts  are  again  made  busy  by  this  ancient  source  of 
wealth  and  industry. 

Spain  has  long  supplied  the  world,  both  the  old  and  new,  with  the  precious 
metals— -herself  the  Pem  of  antiquity,  she  enriched  Tyre  and  Rome  with  bullion 
from  her  own  bosom,  as  in  later  times  she  supplied  Europe  from  her  Trans- 
atlantic possessions.  The  Phoenicians,  the  first  to  discover  her  metallic  wealth, 
long  kept  the  secret  to  themselves  with  a  jealous  monopoly,  which  their  de- 
scendants imitated  in  regard  to  their  golden  colonies  of  the  New  World.  The 
merchants  of  Tyre  found  the  natives  of  Tarshish  (the  south  of  Spain)  muc>^ 

Q  2 


340  KINGDOM  OF  MUBCIA.  Sect.  IV. 

as  the  aborigiual  Indians  were  when  discovered  by  the  Spaniards ;  and  totally 
unacquainted  with  the  conventional  value  of  the  precious  metals  as  a  repre- 
sentative of  wealth,  for  no  mention  whatever  is  made  of  coin.  They  treated 
them  simply  as  materials  for  the  construction  of  the  meanest  utensils,  for 
mangers  and  water-vessels  (Strabo,  iii.  224).  The  Phoenicians  carried  bullion 
away  in  such  quantities,  that  when  their  ships  were  freighted  to  the  full  they 
made  their  anchors  of  silver  (Diod.  Sic.  v.  358,  Wess.):  the  coasts  of  Pales- 
tine were  encumbered  therewith,  so  that  in  the  house  of  Solomon  (who  traded 
with  Hiram)  everything  was  of  gold  and  "  silver  was  accounted  nothing " 
(1  Kings,  X.  21).  The  very  next  verse  shows  that  all  this  came  from  Spam. 
Hence  the  possession  of  this  country  of  gold,  the  source  of  the  sinews  of  war, 
and  the  secret  of  power,  soon  became  the  bone  of  contention  among  nations 
(App.  *  B.  H.'  482).  The  fame  of  the  Romans  was  spread  over  the  East,  in 
consequence  of  **  what  they  had  done  in  Spain,  the  winning  of  the  mines  of 
silver  and  of  gold  which  is  there  *'  (1  Mace.  viii.  3).     Everything  which  re- 

farded  this  subject  interested  the  avarice  of  Roman  adventurers,  who,  says 
Hodorus  Siculus,  flocked  to  Spain  in  the  hopes  of  suddenly  becoming  rich, 
just  as  the  Spaniards  did  to  Peru  and  Mexico ;  accordingly,  there  was  no  want 
of  authors  on  Spanish  metallurgy.  From  the  now  lost  works  of  Posidonius, 
the  chief  authority,  Strabo  and  Diodorus  Siculus  derived  their  principal 
information.  Posidonius,  according  to  Strabo  (iii.  217),  was  so  dazzled  with 
the  subject,  that,  departing  from  his  ordinary  prose  to  indulge  in  poetical 
exaggeration,  he  adventured  on  the  pun,  that  Plutus,  not  Pluto,  lived  beneath 
the  Spanish  soil.  Strabo  goes  on  to  say,  that  men  would  bore  down  to  the  latter 
to  dig  up  the  former.  Even  this  cautious  geographer  warms  when  enlarging 
on  the  wealth  of  the  Peninsula.  See  also  the  beautiful  exordium  of  Pliny  to 
his  3rd  book  on  the  fatal  greediness  for  gold,  and  the  **  profunda  avaritia "  of 
his  countrymen.  No  tale  could,  in  fact,  be  too  exaggerated  for  the  credulity 
and  the  golden  visions  of  the  reading  public  of  Rome,  who  thought  that  the 
streets  of  Spain  were  paved  with  gold,  just  as  the  modern  Romans  think  those 
of  Jx)ndon  now  are.  The  Tagus  was  said  to  roll  over  golden  sands,  while  the 
ploughshare  of  the  Gallician  turned  up  clods  of  ore  (Justin,  xliv.  3).  The 
Iberian  names  of  these  interesting  lumps,  Falas,  Falacranas,  BcUuces,  have 
been  preserved,  while  the  rest  of  the  dictionary  has  perished.  It  is  still  true, 
as  was  remarked  by  Strabo  (iii.  210,  216),  that  those  portions  of  the  Peninsula 
where  the  soil  is  most  barren  are  the  most  fertile  in  the  precious  metals. 

Those  who  have  read  of  the  murders  committed  in  the  S.  American  mines 
b}'  the  Spaniards,  and  of  the  myriads  of  poor  Indians  wasted,  blood,  bones,  and 
all,  as  machinas  de  sangre,  will  be  satisfied,  on  comparing  the  recorded  iniquities 
committed  here  by  the  Carthaginians,  that  the  Punic  taint,  when  gold  is  in  Ihe 
question,  has  remained  unchanged  in  their  descendants.  The  accounts  given 
by  Diod.  Siculus  of  the  mode  of  working  the  mines  of  Egypt  (iii.  181)  and  of 
Spain  (v.  359)  prove  from  the  identity  of  practical  details,  that  the  Phoenicians 
introduced  the  Oriental  system.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  cruelties  exercised 
in  both  countries  on  the  ergastula,  the  gangs  of  wretched  miners,  who  were 
composed  of  captives  and  criminals ;  they  toiled  day  and  night,  naked,  and 
urged  on  with  the  lash,  until  death  came  as  a  welcome  deliverer.  In  the  mines 
near  Cartagena  40,000  men  were  thus  employed  at  once  (Strabo,  iii.  220),  and 
the  daily  returns  of  silver  amounted  to  25,000  drachma ;  and  one  mine  alone, 
called  Bebulo,  produced  to  Hannibal  3  cwt.  of  silver  daily  (Plin.  *  N.  H.* 
xxxiii.  6).  Credite  posteri.  The  mines  were  drained  by  hydraulic  machines, 
»ax>j»h  the  invention  of  Archimedes,  and  imported  from  Egypt,  just  as  the 
steam-engines  are  now  brought  there  from  England,  for  the  Spaniard  never  was 
a  mechanician.  The  old  shafts  burrowed  into  the  mountains,  by  which  rivers 
were  turned  oflF,  are  distinguishable  from  the  Moorish  by  being  round,  while 
\e  latter  are  sqwxre.    Job  (xxviii.  7)  alludes  to  these  Phoenician  tunnellings. 


Murcia,  mines  of  antiquity.  341 

the  remains  of  some  of  which  are  still  thought  to  be  traceable  at  Rio  Tinto, 
and  the  S°  Spirito,  near  Cartagena.  These  shafts,  the  Greek  e^vyfiara, 
Iv^tyyaty  and  Roman  CunicuU,  were  called  by  the  natives  arrugia,  in  which, 
and  its  Greek  corruption,  the  Iberian  or  Basque  root  ttr,  "  water,"  is  evident. 
The  wells,  pozos,  were  called  agangas  and  agogas,  for  the  Romans,  mere  mili- 
tary conquerors,  preserved,  nay  derived,  these  technical  terms  from  their  more 
ingenious  predecessors,  just  as  the  Gotho-Spauiard  adopted  the  nomenclature 
of  the  Moor. 

The  Iberians,  like  the  modem  Spaniards,  rude  and  careless  manufacturers, 
took  the  raw  material  just  as  bountiful  nature  offered  it  to  them,  and  left  to 
the  stranger  the  processes  of  artificial  perfection.  Thus  their  bullion  was 
exported,  as  now,  in  pigs,  or  **  spread  into  plates "  (Jer.  x.  9).  How  little 
all  the  processes  of  separation  and  amalgamation  were  known  may  be  inferred 
from  the  Saguntines  having  simply  melted  their  gold  and  silver  with  lead 
and  brass,  in  order  thereby  to  render  it  useless  to  Hannibal  (App.  *  B.  H.* 
435).  It  has  also  been  ascertained  that  even  12  per  cent,  of  silver  is  yet  to  be 
extracted  from  the  ancient  slags,  escoriales,  left  by  them  ;  so  imperfect  was  their 
system  of  smelting.  It  would  appear  that  the  advanced  metallurgical  science 
of  Egypt  and  Phcenicia,  from  whom  the  Jews  learnt  their  processes  even  of 
reducing  and  dissolving  gold  (Exod.  xxxii.  20),  was  not  kept  up  by  the  colonists 
of  Carthage. 

The  Carthaginian  labourers  in  these  districts  were  then,  as  now,  very  poor ; 
the  ore  was  du^  up  by  a  sweat  of  blood,  and  modern  Spaniards  have  always 
neglected  the  surer  source  of  wealth,  agriculture,  which  lies  on  the  surface  of 
their  fertile  soil ;  they  have,  like  Orientals,  loved  to  gamble ;  buoyed  on  by 
their  imaginations,  and  readily  believing  what  they  eagerly  desired,  they  have 
sighed  for  sudden  acquisition  of  riches,  for  some  brilliant  treasure  accident,  and 
have  thus  lost  the  solid  substance  in  the  attempt  to  catch  at  a  glittering  shadow. 
The  want  of  fuel  is  a  serious  objection ;  thus  the  juxtaposition  of  English 
iron  and  coal  has  won  the  Spaniard's  gold,  to  whom  the  angry  gods  denied 
these  gifts,  while  they  granted  richer  ores.  Industry,  again,  is  wanting,  that 
alchemy  which  converts  these  baser  substances  into  precious  thin^,  and  solves 
the  doubt  of  the  Roman  philosopher,  *'  argentum  et  anrum,  proprii  Dei  an  irati 
negaverint,  dubio  ;'*  and  poor  Spain  herself  has  too  long  been  a  mine  worked  by 
avarice  ana  iniquity.  The  Moorish  invasion  led  to  the  abandonment  of  these 
ancient  mines,  as  this  portion  of  the  Peninsula  became  a  scene  of  domestic  and 
foreign  warfare ;  and  when  the  Moor  was  at  last  conquered,  the  almost  simul- 
taneous discovery  of  the  New  World  threw  into  the  lap  of  Spain  a  virgin  source 
of  unexhausted  wealth,  it  was  no  longer  worth  while  to  expend  heavy  labour 
and  capital  on  the  long-neglected  mines  at  home,  when  the  supply  could  be  so 
well  procured  elsewhere,  so  they  were  closed  in  1600  by  a  royal  order. 
Latterly,  since  the  loss  of  the  Transatlantic  colonies,  much  attention  has  been 
directed  to  these  former  sources  of  treasure ;  and  foreign  capitalists  have  poured 
in  with  foreign  science  and  machinery,  and  even  the  Spaniard,  cautious  as  he 
is  in  embarking  his  hoard  in  any  commercial  adventure,  joins  in  this  race  for 
gold.  It  plates  over  their  most  inveterate  national  and  even  religious  anti- 
pathies. He  co-operates  with  Jew  and  Gentile,  for  the  Rothschilds,  wise  as 
their  king  Solomon,  have  again  sent  forth  their  agents  to  Tarshish,  buying  up 
the  bullion,  and  making  advances  for  new  operations.  These  are  chiefly 
directed  by  Englishmen  and  Frenchmen.  Even  the  coals  used  for  smelting  are 
brought  from  Newcastle. 

Among  the  finest  refining  establishments  in  these  metal-pregnant  district^ 
may  be  named  La  Britannica  and  La  de  San  Juatiy  at  Alicante.  The  amal- 
gamation works  of  San  Isidoroy  at  Escombrera,  and  La  Begenerada^  at 
Almazarron,  deserve  notice.  A  new  custom-house  has  been  opened  at  Porman 
— Portus  magnus —solely  for  these  galena  mines.    The  bonanzas  of  La  Espe- 


342 


ROUTE  31. — GRANADA  TO  MURCIA. 


Sect.  IV. 


ranza,  La  Observacion,  and  Emilia,  of  San  Gines,  on  the  Rico  Cerro  de  Oro, 
may  be  visited:  at  S°  Spirito  was  discovered,  in  1481,  a  Carthaginian  shaft, 
supported  by  masonry.  However,  the  talk  of  this  angle  of  Murcia  is  about 
ores,  and  the  traveller  will  hear  of  nothing  else :  every  day  some  new  associa- 
tion is  formed,  some  new  ground  broken.  These,  and  all  other  particulars, 
will  be  learned  from  his  consuls  at  Cartagena  and  Alicante,  or  any  respectable 
merchant  or  resident. 

The  mineralogist  and  speculator  is  referred  for  additional  information  to  the 
'  Historiq  Natural*  of  Bowles;  the  '  Comentarios  de  las  Ordenanzas  de  Minos* 
Antonio  Xavier  de  Gamboa,  folio,  Mad.  1761,  translated  by  Richard  Heath- 
field,  Longman,  1830  ;  also  *  Registro  de  las  Minos  de  la  Corona,*  Tomas  Gon- 
zalez, 2  vols.  Mad.  1832 ;  and  *Minero  Espaiiol,'  Nicacio  Anton  Valle,  Mad. 
1841 ;  a  newspaper  also  was  established,  called  El  Boletin  de  las  Minos,  which 
is  exclusively  dedicated  to  mining  information.  The  best  spots  for  the  student 
in  these  matters  will  be  Cartagena  and  Alicante^  in  the  vicinity  of  which  occur 
the  chief  mines,  smelting  and  other  establishments,  which  are  principally 
carried  on  by  French  and  English  speculators. 


Route  31. — Gra.kai>a  to  Muecia. 


Huetor    .     . 

U 

Molinillo.    . 

3 

4i 

Diezma  .     . 

1* 

6 

P*urullena    . 

2 

8 

Guadix  .     . 

1 

9 

Venta  de  Gor 

3 

12 

YeDta  de  Baul 

1 

13 

Baza .     .     . 

3 

16 

CulUr     .     . 

4 

20 

Chirivel  .     . 

3 

23 

Velez  Rubio  . 

3 

26 

Lnmberas    . 

6 

31 

Lorca      .     . 

3 

34 

Totana    .     . 

4 

38 

LibrilU  .     . 

4 

42 

Murcia   •     . 

4 

46 

This  bad  road  is  practicable  for 
strong  galeras  and  tartanas.  It  is  better 
to  ride  it,  hiring  horses  to  Lorca, 
whence  a  diligence  runs  to  Murcia; 
reserving,  however,  a  power  of  taking 
the  horses  on,  if  preferred.  By  leav- 
ing Granada  at  4  a.m.  you  can  easily 
reach  Guadix  to  sleep.  The  city  is 
quitted  by  the  Puerta  de  Facalausa, 
Arabic^,  the  pass  or  gate  of  the  al- 
mond-trees, a  two  hours'  mountain 
ride  leads  to  the  tolerable  posada  at 
Huetor.  Hence,  passing  the  lofty 
crags,  the  picturesque  defiles  and  de- 
scents, to  Molinillo,  and  wild  aromatic 
dehesas  to  burnt-up  Diezma,  The  arid 
soil  contrasts  with  the  snowy  Sierra, 
which  glitters  to  the  r.  Near  Purul- 
lena,  the  miserable  peasantry  dwell  in 
holes  or  ctjbevas,  excavated  from  the 
soft  hillocks.  Many  of  the  loftier 
hills  to  the  r.  bear  names  connected 


with  the    silver-mines  of   antiquity, 
such  as  Sierra  de  la  Mina,  Sierra  del 
Pozo,  &c. ;  indeed,  all  this  range,  down 
to  the  Sierra  de  Filabres  and  Vera,  is 
marble  and  metal  pregnant.     In  these 
districts,  probably,  were  the  Orospe- 
dan  chain ;  the  op»s  m^yv^ov  of  Strabo 
(iii.   220) ;   the  Mons  Argentarius  of 
Fest.  Avienus.     Bochart  interprets  the 
word  Orosphed  quasi  Phed,  Punice  sil- 
ver.    Gold  mines  exist  in  the  Monte 
del  Sol,  not  far  from  Cenes  and  Huetor, 
Ouadix,  Acci,  Arabice  wadi-ash,  the 
water  of  life,  eau  de  vie,  in  its  mul- 
berry-groves   looks     more     cheerful. 
There  is  a  decent  posada  del  Sol  under 
the  town,  near  the  gate,  and  a  nice  little 
Alameda,     Guadix  contains  9000  souls, 
and   is  a  bishopric  suffragan  to  Gra- 
nada, although  it  claims  much  greater 
antiquity  and  to  have  been  converted 
by  San  Torcuato,  one  of  the  seven  pre- 
lates sent  expressly  to  Spain  by  St. 
Peter  and  Paul.     Walk    up    to   the 
Plaza,  with   its  columns  of  the   I5th 
century:    thence   to  the  Paseo  de   la 
CatedrcU,  and  observe  the  view  over  the 
Vega.    The  cathedral  is  unimportant, 
although  rejoicing  in  the  epithets  of 
holy  and  apostolical.    The  coro  is  en- 
riched with  many  small  statues,  carved 
in  pear-wood ;  the  silleria  is  in  exag- 
gerated plateresque:   the  pulpits   are 
composed  of  the  red  and  green  Alpn- 
jarras  marbles.    Coming  out  towards 
the  bishop's  palace  is  a  Roman  stone, 
let  into  the  wall,  and  inscribed  "  Colon 
Accis,**    Hence  by  the  Calle  de  la  Jfw- 


Murcia* 


ROUTE  31. — GUADIX — BAZA, 


343 


ralla  to  the  ruined  Moorish  castle. 
Observe  the  extraordinary  character 
of  the  environs.  The  whole  country 
about  the  town  resembles  a  sea,  whose 
waves  have  suddenly  been  transformed 
into  solid  substances.  The  hillocks 
rise  up  fantastically  into  conical  and 
pyramidical  shapes :  their  marly  sides 
are  excavated  into  caves,  the  homes  of 
the  troglodyte  poor.  No  wonder  some 
are  called  los  dientes  de  la  Vieja,  al- 
though they  are  more  like  the  teeth  of 
a  petrified  colossal  crocodile  than  of 
an  old  woman.  These  localities,  once 
covered  by  water,  have  been  ploughed 
by  the  retiring  floods  into  gullies,  by 
which  the  whole  district  is  intersected. 
Guadix  is  renowned  for  its  knives, 
made  with  a  molded  or  catch,  by  which 
the  blades  can  be  flxed  and  converted 
into  a  dagger ;  admirable  for  stabbing, 
nothing  can  be  ruder  than  this  cutlery, 
which  however  answers  Spanish  pur- 
poses, and  that  guerra  al  cuchillo  which 
proved  scarcely  less  fatal  to  the  French 
than  the  British  bayonet.  (See  Alba- 
cete.)  From  Guadix  a  road  leads  to 
Lanjaron^  by  Tiana,  Lanjar,  and  Orgiva, 
Consult  Historia  del  Obispado  de  Guadix 
y  Bara.  Pedro  Suarez,  fol.  Mad.  1696. 
About  li  L.  from  Guadix  are  the 
baths  of  GraeiMj  open  from  August  to 
October.  The  accommodations,  as 
usual,  are  wretched ;  and  many  visitors 
prefer  lodging  in  the  cool  caves  of  the 
hills  to  the  hot  and  inconvenient 
houses.  Leaving  Guadix,  whence  the 
road  branches  off  for  Almeria,  and 
threading  a  sea  of  pointed  hillocks, 
sandy,  earthy,  and  tawny,  amid  which 
the  esparto  rush-  grows  luxuriantly, 
passing  a  stream  and  a  wild  ascent,  a 
midday  halt  may  be  made  at  the  poor 
Venta  de  Gor,  Ghaur  means  a  pass  in 
Hindee,  while  ghw  in  Arabic  is  a  bot- 
tom, a  flat  low  country.  The  town 
lies  to  the  r.  Hence  to  Baza,  3  long 
L.  The  clay-built-looking  city  lies  in 
a  rich  hoy  a  or  plain,  surrounded  by  a 
country  ploughed  up  by  ravines  and 
Brobdignag  furrows.  Baza,  the  Roman 
Basti,  the  Moorish  Bdstah,  is  an  agri- 
cultural town  of  some  10,000  souls : 
the  posada  is  roomy  and  good.  Frag- 
ments of  antiquity  are  constantly 
found  in  the  Vega,  and  are  as  con- 


stantly neglected  or  broken  to  pieces 
by  the  peasants,  who,  like  Moors, 
think  they  contain  hidden  treasures. 
Baza  was  taken  by  the  Chiistians,  after 
a  siege  of  seven  months,  Dec.  4,  1480. 
Isabella  came  in  person,  then  and  there, 
as  everywhere  else,  the  harbinger  of 
victory.  This  gentle  and  delicate 
queen  possessed  the  masculine  virtues 
of  our  bold  Bess,  while  a  soul  of  Caesar 
was  enshrined  in  the  form  of  Lucretia. 
She  braved  all  hardships,  hutried  to 
every  post  of  danger,  regardless  of 
weather  or  ill  heath,  and  appearing 
at  the  nick  of  time,  like  our  Elizabeth 
at  Tilbury  Fort,  communicated  to  her 
troops  her  own  dauntless  spirit.  The 
Spanish  artillery  was  under  her  espe- 
cial management,  for  she  perceived  the 
power  of  this  arm,  hitherto  under- 
valued from  being  worked  insufficient-i 
ly.  She  was  the  soul  and  spirit  of 
every  campaign,  by  providing  the 
finance  and  commissariat,  things  rare* 
in  Spain,  and  recorded  by  P.  Martyr 
as  belli  nervos.  She  pawned  her  jewels 
to  pay  the  troops,  seldom  paid  since ; 
established  military  hospitals,  and 
maintained  a  regular  discipline:  her 
camp,  says  P.  Martyr,  resembled  a 
republic  of  Plato's.  Need  it  be  said 
that  her  armies  were  victorious?  for 
Spaniards  make  fine  soldiers  when  well 
fed  and  led.  She  placed  her  battery  on 
the  site  of  the  present  j?os»Yo,  or  grain 
deposit,  and  some  of  her  cannon,  used 
as  lamp-posts!  remain  near  the  rose- 
planted  Alameda.  They  are  composed 
of  bars  of  iron  bound  by  hoops,  and 
have  no  wheels,  being  moved  by  strong 
rings.  In  the  Colegiata  is  the  fine 
tomb  of  the  patron,  San  Maximo,  The 
splendid  Custodia  was  the  work  of 
Juan  Ruiz  of  Cordova.  Near  Bara, 
November  3,  1810,  Blake  and  Manuel 
Freire  were  signally  beaten  by  the 
French.  The  town  was  sacked  by  Se- 
bastiani. 

Baza  is  renowned  for  rich  red  wines, 
the  beverage  of  Granada.  The  women 
are  among  the  prettiest  in  Spain,  and, 
as  at  Guadix,  fair  complexioned. 
The  female  peasants  clad  in  green 
sayas,  with  black  stripes  and  red 
edgings,  with  their  sandalled,  naked 
feet,  upright  elastic  step,  as  they  carry 


344 


ROUTE  31. — ^PANTANO  DE  LOBCA. 


Sect.  IV. 


baskets  or  pitchers  on  their  heads, 
are  quite  classical  and  melo-drama- 
tic  Hebes.  The  Valencian  costume 
now  begins,  and  the  striped  mania 
takes  the  place  of  the  cloak.  There 
are  two  local  histories :  one  by  Gonzalo 
Argote  de  Molina ;  the  other  by  Pedro 
Suarez,  fol.  Mad.  1606. 

Hence  by  a  poplar  Alameda  to  Cidlar 
de  Baza,  which  lies  in  a  ravine  below 
its  Moorish  ruin,  and  in  a  valley  of 
maize  and  vines.  It  is  a  straggling 
place  of  some  .5000  souls  built  on  its 
stream.  Half  of  the  dwellings  are  mere 
holes  dug  in  the  hill-side,  in  which 
the  rustics  burrow  and  breed  like 
rabbits,  and  they  are  all  fur  in  their 
sheepskin  jackets.  Here,  in  August, 
1811,  Freire  was  again  beaten  to  shreds 
even  by  Godinot,  one  of  the  worst  of 
French  generals,  whose  incapacity 
allowed  his  foe,  skilled  in  flight,  to 
escape  (Toreno,  xvi.). 

Ascending  a  broken  ridge,  the  mi- 
serable Venta  de  las  Vertientes  marks 
the  summit,  from  whence  divortia  aqita- 
rum'ytlie  "  parted  waters,"  descend  both 
ways.  Chirivel  is  in  the  district  of  flax 
and  hemp,  lino  y  canamo.  The  latter, 
when  cut,  is  soaked  for  8  days,  until 
the  rind  rots ;  it  is  then  beaten  on  round 
stones,  and  drawn  through  an  iron- 
toothed  machine.  The  whole  process 
is  unwholesome,  for  the  offensively- 
smelling  soaking  produce  fever,  while 
the  minute  particles  which  fly  off  dur- 
ing the  beating  Irritate  the  lungs  and 
induce  consumption.  Velez  el  Mubio  is 
approached  by  an  awful  league,  la  del 
Frayle,  which  is  at  least  5  miles  long. 
The  stream  is  pretty  ;  and  the  two 
rocky  knobs  of  the  Frayle  and  La 
Monja  are  singular.  Velez  el  Eubio 
is  a  poor  but  well-peopled  place  of 
some  12,000  souls,  in  a  most  fertile 
district,  which  also  abounds  in  fine 
jaspers :  the  white  houses  lie  under 
the  castle  in  a  picturesque  hill-girt 
situation.  Near  it  is  the  fttente  del 
gato,  a  ferruginous  mineral  water, 
and  excellent  for  nervous  disorders. 
The  huge  posada  del  RosaHo  was  built 
in  1.785  by  the  Duke  of  Alva,  who  owns 
large  estates  in  these  parts.  The  ex- 
tmor  is  grand,  the  interior  is  all  want. 
:«^  el  Mubio,  although  unarmed  and 


unresisting,  was  sacked  by  Sebastian! 
in  April,  1810.  / 

Passing  the  steep  Cuesta  de   Viotar 
we  enter  Murcia.    The  high  road  to 
Lorca  is  carried  over  the  ridge  ate/ 
Puerto  de  Lumhreras :  but  the  traveller 
should  make  a  mountain  detour  to  the 
1.  by  the  noble  castle  of  Xiquena,  dining 
at  the  venta  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  and  beyond  the  picturesque 
mills.    The  stone  pines  are  magnifi- 
cent.    Make  then  a  detour  to  the  1. 
to  the  Pantano  of  Lorca :  an  enormous 
dyke,  called  el  puente,  is  built  of  a  fine 
yellow  stone    across    the     gathering 
ground  of  a  narrow  valley,  1 500  ft.  high, 
and  consistingof  7  rampsor  camino5,each 
12  ft.  wide;  the  base  being  some  84  ft. 
thick.    This  dams  up  the  rivulet  into  a 
reservoir  lake ;  the  accumulated  waters 
are  doled  out  to  the  lands  below,  water 
being  the  thing  wanting  in  this  dessi- 
cated  district.    These  Pantarios  are  the 
precise  Byzantine  wSpaX/as,  the  Bendts  by 
which  Constantinople  is  supplied.  This 
one  was  a  speculation  of  the  company 
de  Prades,  formed  in  1775,  by  whom 
money   was   raised   for  the   Murcian 
canal  at   7 J  per  cent.,  which,  being 
guaranteed  by  Charles  IH.,  was  lent 
readily.     In  1791  Godoy  reduced  it  to 
3    per    cent.,     deducting    the    whole 
amount  of  the  previously  paid  dif- 
ference of  4^.    The  dyke  across  the 
gorge,  finished  in  1789,  was  filled  for 
the  first  time  in  Feb.  1802,  and  gave 
way  April  30,  destroying  the  suburb  of 
San  Christobal,  and  much  of  the  city, 
and  injuring  everthing  for  nearly  50 
m.  below.     Similar  was  the  reservoir 
and  the  destruction  of  the  Sitte  Mareb, 
the  work  of  Solomon's  Queen  of  Sheba, 
which  swept  entire  cities  from  the  face 
of   Arabia    (Sale's   *  Koran,'   i.    12). 
Something  on  a  smaller  scale  occurred 
at  Helmforth, Yorkshire,  in  1852,  but  as 
that  particular  dam  was  in  Chancery 
who  can  wonder  at  the  ruin  ?  The  Mur- 
cians,  in  remembrance  of  these  aqueous 
avalanches,  oppose  the  repairs  of  the 
Pantanos.     It  is  with  them  a  question 
of  fire  V.  water — either  to  be  burnt  up 
by  the  sun  or  drowned. 

Following  the  lines  of  damage  for  2 
L.,  we  reach  Lorca,  Elicroca,  Lorc^h, 
with  a  decent  inn,  de  San  Vicente,  and 


Murcia* 


ROUTE  3 1 . — ^LORCA — CARAVACA. 


345 


diligence  to  Murcia :  the  tcTwn  is  built 
under  the  Monte  de  Oro^  on  the  banks 
of  the  Sangonera,  or  Guadalentin, 
which  soon  falls  into  the  Segura.  Lorca 
is  a  dull,  rambling  old  city,  with  steep 
and  tortuous  streets,  but  clean  and 
good  houses:  Inhab.  under  22,000, 
and  recently  impoverished  by  mining 
gamblings.  This  city  was  the  Moorish 
key  of  Murcia.  The  castle — a  fine 
specimen — is  worth  visiting  for  the 
superb  view  it  commands.  The  tower 
Espolon,  and  the  long  lines  of  walls, 
are  Moorish.  That  called  the  Alfofti- 
sina  is  Spanish,  and  was  built  by 
Alonso  el  Sabio,  who  jgave  the  city  for 
its  arms  his  bust  on  this  tower,  with  a 
key  in  one  hand  and  a  sword  in  the 
other,  with  the  legend,  - 

*'  Lorca  solum  (pneitqm,   castrom  super  astra 
locatmn, 
£nse  minas  grayis,  et  regni  tntissixna  clavis." 

The  fagade  of  the  Colegiata  is  Co- 
rinthian and  composite.  The  interior 
is  dark,  but  rejoices  in  relics  of  its 
patron  San  Patricio,  a  rival  to  St. 
Patrick.  The  tower  has  a  Murcian 
pepper-box  dome.  The  old  Plaza,  with 
its  arched  prison  and  rambling  streets, 
are  picturesque.  There  is  a  tolerable 
Gothic  church,  La  Santa  Maria,  The 
walks  are  pleasant,  especially  the 
Alameda,  near  the  river.  In  the  Cor- 
redera  is  a  pillar  and  Roman  inscrip- 
tion. Images  of  San  Vicente  Ferrer 
(see  Valencia)  now  begin  to  appear. 
Lorca  was  twice  sacked  by  the  French, 
and  especially  in  Aug.  1810,  by  Sebas- 
tiani.  Here,  Feb.  1811,  Freire  fled  as 
usual  on  the  mere  approach  of  Soult. 
There  is  a  local  history,  * Antigiiedades, 
&c.,  de  Lorca.'  Pedro  Morote  Perez 
Chaecos,  fol.  Murcia,  1741;  and  Orde- 
nanzas  y  Frivilegios^  4to.  Gran.  1713. 

From  Lorca  to  Murcia  the  route  is 
arid  and  desolate  from  want  of  water. 
Tutana  and  the  mud-built  Librilla  are 
the  head-quarters  of  Murcian  gipsies, 
whose  costume  is  very  gay  and  ornate. 
They  are  the  innkeepers  of  the  district. 
Their  grand  rendezvous  is  at  Palmas 
de  San  Juan,  where  they  dance  the 
Toca,  Ole,  and  Mandel.  Totana  is 
divided  by  these  dark  children  of  the 
Zend  into  two  portions,  called  Sevilla  y 


Triana.,  in  remembrance  of  the  capital 
of  Bcetica ;  the  hugest  tinajas  are  made 
here.      Near    Totana    commences  La 
Sierra  de  Espaua,  in  the  snow  of  which 
the  gipsies  traffic.      Totana  contains 
8000  souls,  and  has  a  Cokgiata,  a  fine 
fountain,  supplied  by  a  handsome  aque- 
duct.   The  vegetation,  where  there  is 
water,  is  tropical :  tall  whispering  canes, 
and  huge  aloes,  towering  up  in  can-  . 
delabras,  are  intermingled  with  palm;_w 
trees  and  gigantic  sun- flowers,  who§£  ^^ 
seeds  are  eaten  by  the  poor.  The  ^ir-.  - 
racaSf  or  low  cottages  of  the  peasant  ^^  -^ 
have     projecting      roofs,      ge^raily  - 
thatched  with  sisca,  and  gabl^^.  ends;/, 
on  which  the  cross  of  Caravo^a*  the  • 
relic  of  these  localities,  is  e^vated; 
this  now  supersedes  the  li^y  •  Face, 
the  Bostro  of   Jaen.      For^  rehcs.  in 
Spain,   like    our    county  miigistratest^ 
have  small  power  out  of  <Ecfiip  juris*  " 
diction.     In  the  distance  th^  cathedral  i 
tower    of  Murcia    rises  a^oye"  level  >. 
plantations    of   oranges,    mulberries, 
golden  maize,  and  red  pepper.    Thev 
peasants,  with  handkerchiefs  xin  heads 
like    turbans,  and  white,  kilt^,  look^ 
from  this  contrast  of  lines. ^i^  biroiized  ^ 

*  Caravaca  lies  up  in  the  biljs^  14  L.  from  , 
Murcia,  on  the  road  to  Atbacete  (18  L.)    The 
town  is  pleasantly  placed  at  the  head  of  a  vega, 
under  a  fine  castle ;  ascend  ta  the  CapiUa  liajor  ' 
of  the  church,  the  site  of  the  local  nur^cle,  and  . 
notice  the  Basso  relievos,  the  vative  gifts,  and. 
the  Crosi  itself.    The  grand  festWat  is  May  3*. 
The  cross  is  brought  down.  with,  wonderful' 
pomp  to  the  town  and  bathed.    The  waters-, 
then  become  miraculously  impregnated,  and  the  ~ 
peasants  and  patients  plunge  in.    Compare  thia 
with  ri  Santo  JAigo  near  Rom«,   where   the 
pagan  priests  of  Cybele  d^ped  the  bqtiage  with 
an  annual  pompa  in  the  Mmo^  whidi  became 
instantly  endued  with  medicinal  and  sanatiye 
properties. — Ovid  Fast,  iv.  v.  396.    Am.  Marc. 
zxxiii.  6.    The  arms  of  Caravaca  are  a  "  red 
cow,  with  a  cross  on  its  back;"  all  this  has 
reference  to  the  captive  Don  Gines  Perez  ChJri- 
nos,  who  being  very  desirous,  May  3, 1231,  to^ 
say  mass  to  a  Moorish  king  of  the  ill-omened; 
name  Deoeyt,  had  no  cross,  whereupon  angela 
brought  this  identical  one  down  torn  heaven, 
and  the  Moor  was  instantly  converted.     Mi-' 
racles  have  ever  since  been  wn^i^ht.    Rings, 
when  rubbed  against  the  cross,  protect  Uie 
wearers  from  illness.  The  peasania  fancied  that 
this  Cross  would  sect^  them  firo^  Sebastianra 
pillagers,  which  It  ^A  not.    Volumes  have  been 
written  on  its  past  powers.    Consult  Cuatr6 
ciento  Milaffrof^  J^imfi  Bleda,  Svo.  Val.  1600; 
Cascales,  p^  It ;  Histwria^  Juan  de  Jtobles,  4to. 
Mad.  1616;   dHto  Martin   C.  T.  Pinero,  foi. 
Madrid.  lt?8 ;  ^9^9^^  v,  62a.     '  • 

«3 


346 


ROUTE  31. — GRANADA  TO  MURCU, 


Sect.  IV. 


flesh,  as  dasky  as  Moors.  The  pretty 
women  are  made  more  so  by  their 
ballet  costume  of  blue  sayas  and 
yellow  boddices.  Murcia  is  entered 
by  the  pleasant  Alameda  del  Cinnen^ 
traversing  the  Plaza  with  its  highly- 
worked  iron  balconies,  and  thence  over 
the  muddy,  half-exhausted  Segura,  by 
a  fine  bridge  built  in  1720. 

Inns :  Posada  Francesa,and  one  in  the 
Plaza  deSm  Leandro ;  other  posadas  are 
the  San  Antonio  and  la  de  la  Alhondiga. 
La  del  Comercio  is  in  the  Calle  de  la 
Rambla  del  Cuerno.  In  the  Calle 
Mayor  are  two  decent  casas  de  pupilos ; 
one  kept  by  Juan  Gutierez,  the  other 
by  Dona  Maria  Romero.  Consult 
'  Discursos  ffistoricos/  Cascales,  fol. 
Murcia,  1614.  In  the  first  edition  there 
are  135  coats  of  arms,  which  are  usually 
placed  before  the  20th  discourse.  The 
work  was  reprinted  at  Mwica,  in  1775. 

A  day  will  suffice  for  Murcia :  the 
capital  of  its  province,  it  is  placed  in 
the  centre  of  the  most  fertile  Baerta,  the 
Moorish  al-Bastan,  "  garden,"  which 
extends  5  L.  in  length  by  3  in  breadth, 
and  is  watered  from  a  magnificent 
Moorish  contrivance  called  the  Con^ 
traparada,  and  by  the  river,  which  is 
sanyradOf  or  bled  to  death.  Silk  is 
the  staple,  and  red-pepper  powder, 
which  IS  sent  all  over  Spain.  Murcia 
was  built  by  the  Moors,  from  the 
materials  of  the  Roman  Murgi,  Murci 
Arcilacis.  It  was  called  Mursiah, 
and  Hadhrat  Tadmir,  the  "  court  of 
Tbeodomir,'"  its  independent  Gothic 
prince.  It  neither  is  nor  ever  was 
dedicated  to  Venus,  the  lover  of  myr- 
tles, as  some,  misled  by  mere  sound, 
have  affirmed.  The  Segura  is  the 
Tader,  Terebis,  Serebis  of  the  ancients, 
the  Skehurah  of  the  Moors.  The  city 
contains  about  35,000  souls,  and  is  the 
see  of  a  bishop  suffragan  to  Toledo, 
who  is  still  called  de  Cartagena, 
which  was  originally  the  site  of  the 
metropolitan,  and  since  the  removal, 
the  two  cities  have  abhorred  each 
other  most  devoutly.  Murcia  was 
taken  from  the  Moors  in  1240,  by 
St.  Ferdinand ;  it  rebelled,  and  was 
reconquered  bjr  Alouf^o  el  Sabio,  who 
^  left,  as  a  precious  legacy,  his  bowels 
*he  dean  and  chapter,  t.  e.  coals  to 


Newcastle  ;*  had  he  bequeathed  a  por- 
tion of  his  brains,  this  Dunciad  see  and 
city  might  have  profited,  for  it  is  the 
dullest  city  in  Spain,  which  is  no  trifle, 
and  one  of  the  driest;  but  whenever 
rain  is  wanted,  the  miraculous  image 
of  our  Lady  of  Fuensanta,  the  patroness 
of  Murcia,  is  brought  in  grand  proces- 
sion from  Algezares,  1  L. ;  the  priest 
having  first  consulted  his  barometer 
before  fixing  the  day.  This  little 
town  sends  forth  the  peculiar  itinerant 
hucksters  and  pedlars,  the  Montafleses  of 
Murcia.  Her  sanctuary,  is  also  a  &- 
vourite  holiday  lounge  for  devout  per- 
sons. The  image  is  duly  brought  to 
the  cathedral  during  the  September 
Novenas. 

The  streets  of  Murcia  are  generally 
narrow,  and  many  of  the  houses  are 
painted  in  pink  and  yellow  colours; 
those  of  the  Hidalgos  are  decorated 
with  armorial  bearings;  observe,  for 
example,  the  Casa  Pinares,  in  the 
Calle  de  la  Plateria.  The  city  arms  are 
six  crowns  with  an  orle  of  lions  and 
castles.  Visit  the  Alcazar,  fortified  in 
1405  by  Enrique  III.  N.B.  Ascend 
the  cathedral  tower,  which  was  begun 
in  1522  by  Cardinal  Mateo  de  Langa, 
and  finished  in  1766.  The  stone  chun 
is  in  compliment  to  the  Velez  family, 
whose  armorial  bearing  it  is ;  crowned 
with  a  dome,  this  tower,  the  type  of 
most  other  belfries  in  this  province, 
rises  in  compartments,  like  a  drawn- 
out  telescope ;  from  the  summit  the 
eye  sweeps  far  and  wide ;  below  lies 
the  circular  city,  with  flat  bluish  roofs, 
and  cane  pigeon-houses.  The  Huerta, 
where  there  is  water,  is  green ;  where 
that  ceases,  as  beyond  Alcantarilla^ 
the  tawny  desert  recommences.  The 
plain  is  studded  with  farms  and  droop- 
ing palm-trees;  the  pointed  isolated 
hill  to  the  E.  is  the  Monte  Agudo, 
whence  a  title  is  taken,  like  our  Mon- 
tague and  Egremont.  The  cathedral 
was  begun  in  1353,  and  altered  in 
1521  ;  the  facade,  by  Jayme  Bort,  is  a 
churrigueresque.  Notice  the  Portada  de 
Ids  Apostoles;  inside  observe  the  Gothic 
niches  behind  the  Coro,thecarved(S'»V/er»a 
and  organ,  and  the  chapel,  with  an  alto- 
relievo,  in  stone,  of  the  Nativity :  the 
sculpture  is  not  good,  but  the  eftect,  in 


Murcia. 


ROUTE  31. — ^MURCIA — SEBASTIAOT. 


347 


the  dim  light,  is  striking ;  opposite,  in 
a  gaudy  frame,  is  a  pretty  Madonna  and 
Child ;  the  Retablo  is  full  of  old  carving ; 
the  stones  near  the  high  altar  are 
picked  out  with  gold,  as  at  Toledo ; 
here,  in  an  uma,  are  the  precious  bowels 
of  Alonso  el  Sabio ;  and  opposite,  in  a 
silver  vase,  are  portions  of  the  tutelar 
saints  San  Fulgencio  and  Santa  Floren- 
tina,  whose  brother  was  the  great  arch- 
bishop San  Isidoro.  The  Sacristia 
mayor  has  some  fine  dark  wood-carving, 
of  1525  ;  the  portal  is  rich  plateresque ; 
much  of  the  splendid  plate  was  stolen 
and  melted  by  the  French,  especially 
the  Custodia  and  Copon  of  pure'  gold. 
The  smaller  silver  Custodia,  iniich 
escaped  miraculously,  is  ornamented 
with  grapes  and  spiral  columns,  and 
was  made  by  Perez  de  Montalto,  1677. 
As  usual,  this  cathedral  has  a  parish 
church  annexed,  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin,  and  called  La  Santa  Maria.  In 
the  Capilla  del  Sagrario  is  an  excellent 
Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  by  Juanes, 
painted  in  1516  for  Juan  de  Molina : 
see  the  ihscription.  The  Capilla  de  los 
Velez  contains  some  singular  stone 
chains,  the  badge  of  the  family ;  the 
portal  of  bluish-veined  marble'  is  en- 
riched with  statues  of  royal  and  local 
saints,  in  which  figures  San  Hermene- 
gildo,  who  was  bom  at  Cartagena :  the 
interior  is  octagonal,  and  incongruous 
in  style  and  ornament.  Observe  the 
St.  Luke  writing  his  Gospel,  by  Fran^ 
Cisco  Garcia,  1607,  and  the  Pasos,  the 
chains  and  sprigs  of  a  tree,  and  the 
gigantic  skeleton.  This  cathedral  suf- 
fered much  in  the  earthquake  of  1829, 
when  the  tower,  facade,  and  dome  of 
the  transept  were  cracked.  The  capa- 
cious episcopal  palace  near  the  cathe- 
dral a  vile  Rococo  thing  of  the  bad 
period  of  1768,  and  made  worse  by 
its  pink  and  green  daubings,  is  here 
an  object  of  vast  admiration. 

Murcia  has  little  fine  art ;  much  of 
the  carving  in  it  and  the  province  is 
by  Francisco  Zarcillo,  who  died  here 
in  1781,  and  who,  had  he  lived  in  a 
better  age,  possessed  the  capabilities 
of  a  true  artist.  In  the  church  of  San 
Nicholas  is  an  exquisite  San  Antonio, 
in  a  brown  Capuchin  dress,  about  18 


I 


inches  hish,  carved  in  wood  by  AIoueo 
Cano,  and  inscribed ;  it  is  the  gem  of 
Murcia.  The  traveller  may  walk 
through  the  Traperia  and  Flateriay 
busy  streets,  with  summer  awnings 
stretched  above,  and  sparkling  dressed 
peasantry  grouped  below;  here  are 
the  shops  of  the  silversmiths  and  the 
sellers  of  manias  y  alforjas,  i.  e.  gay 
party-coloured  striped  mantles  and 
saddle-bags.  The  manias,  which  ^re 
much  renowned,  used  to  have  a  knot 
of  ribbons  in  the  comer,  generally 
added  by  the  fair  hand  of  a  querida. 
The  Almudi,  Arabic^  "  Oranary** 
is  still  the  com  magazine ;  the 
post-office  and  prison  contain  some 
Moorish  remains:  there  is  also  a 
Plaza  de  Toros.  The  favourite  walks 
are  the  Carmen,  the  Olorieta,  and  the 
Arenal,  the  ♦*  Strand."  The  red 
granite  monument  to  Ferdinand  VII. 
is  heavy,  and  the  weirs  and  water? 
mills  would  be  more  picturesque  were 
the  stream  of  a  better  colour.  The 
admirer  of  gipsies  should  walk  out 
towards  el  Malecon,  where  they  con- 
gregate. There  is  a  good  botanical 
garden,  an  ill-provided  hospital,  and 
an  establishment  for  spinning  esparto, 
like  flax  or  hemp,  originated  by  a 
foreigner,  Mons.  Simonet.  A  SeikOF 
Estor  has  a  gallery  of  pictures. 

The  Murcians,  although  dull,  are 
no  cowards ;  thus  in  the  War  of  the 
Succession,  its  gallant  bishop  Luis  de 
Beluga  beat  off  the  Germans,  and  held 
it  for  Philip  V.  This  province  was 
never  permanently  occupied  by  the 
French,  although  overran  by  Soult's 
brother  and  l&bastiani,  who  came 
rather  to  levy  contributions  than  from 
any  military  reasons  (Toreno,  xv.), 
^^eba8tiani  was  its  Alaric  ;  he,  in 
March,  1810,  sallied  from  Granada 
with  6000  men;  Frelre,  although  he 
had  19,000  men,  did  not  dare  to  face 
him  (Nap.  xiii.  6),  but  fell  back  on 
Alicante,  where  there  were  English  to 
support  him,  as  at  San  Marcial.  Sebas-r 
tiani  was  the  first  who  arrived  on  the 
2.3rd  of  April,  1810,  at  unplundered 
Murcia ;  having  pledged  his  word  of 
honour  that  persons  and  property 
should  be  sacred,  he  entered  the  confidv 


348 


ROUTE  32. — MURCIA  TO  MADRID. 


Sect.  IV- 


ing,  unresisting  town,  '*  assumed  royal 
honours,  and,  because  the  municipality 
had  not  welcomed  him — son  of  a  Corsi- 
can  cooper!— with  sahos,  fined  them 
100,000  dollars ;  after  having  got  to- 
gether some  five  quintals  of  plate  from 
churches,  and   convents,  and  private  I 
houses,  he  returned  to  Granada  '  laden 
with  plunder  and  infamy.' "    Toreno's 
(xi.)   details   are  fully  borne  out  bj 
Schepeler  (ii.  537),  see  also  Madoz  (xi. 
753).     To  this  fatal  sack  Marcia  owes 
its  denudation  of  wealth  and  art. 

Sebastiani  was  afterwards  imitated 
by  Soult's  brother,  who  daring  one  of 
his  razzia  visits  was  feasting  in  the 
bishop's  palace  when  the  inhabitants, 
headed  by  Martin  de  Cervera,  rose  on 
their  plunderers ;  Cervera  was  killed, 
and  the  site  of  his  death  is  still  pointed 
out.  Gen.  SouU  rose,  panic-struck, 
from  table,  and  fled,  committing  atro- 
cities too  frightful  to  be  narrated.  See 
Toreno,  xvii.  and  SchepelCr,  iii.  497. 

There  are  regular  diligences  to  and 
from  I^rca,  Cartagena,  and  Alicante, 
but  to  Madrid  there  is  only  a  galera ; 
the  common  carriage  in  these  parts 
is  the  Valencian  one-horsed  tartana, 
which  may  be  hired  at  from  twenty 
to  twenty-four  reals  per  day,  not  in- 
cluding the  keep  of  the  driver  and  his 
horse.  In  the  vicinity  of  Murcia  are 
many  mineral  and  sulphur  baths ;  the 
most  frequented  are  those  of  Archenaj 
4  L. ;  Alhama,  6  L. ;  the  hot  baths 
are  subterraneous,  and  supposed  to  be 
of  Roman  origin ;  Azaraqtve,  2  L.  S. 
of  Hellin,  The  accommodations  afe 
very  bad,  and  the  local  doctors  swear 
that  the  waters  are  dangerous  if  taken 
without  their  previous  advice.  This 
corner  of  Spain  is  the  chief  volcanic 
district  of  the  Peninsula,  which 
stretches  from  Cabo  de  Gata  to  near 
Cartagena ;  the  earthquakes  are  very 
frequent.  This  district  lies  nearly  in 
the  same  parallel  as  Lisbon,  where 
earthquakes  and  volcanic  rocks  also 
occur ;  and  the  same  line,  if  extended 
westward,  would  touch  the  Azores, 
which  are  also  volcanic ;  and  eastward 
would  run  through  Sicily  and  Smyrna, 
both  which  localities  present  the  same 
class  of  phenomena. 


BouTE  32. — MuBCiA  TO  Madbid. 

Lorqui      ......  3 

Cieza 4  ..  1 

Torre 3  ..  10 

HelUn 3  ..  13 

Venta  Nueva      ....  4  ..  17 

Pozo de  la  Peiia  .     ...  2  ..  19 

Albacete 2  ..  21 

Madrid 35  ..  56 

This  is  an  uninteresting  route ;  the 
road  il&  4(till  bad,  although  there  has 
been  long  much  talk  about  improve- 
ments, which  will  be  a  national  benefit, 
by  opening  this  country  with  sea-ports, 
and  bringing  law  and  security  into  a 
wild  bush  district,  the  lair  of  all  sorts  of 
ill-conditioned  persons.  Meantime  the 
traveller  must  ride  or  get  to  Albacete 
as  he  can,  and  there  take  up  the 
Valencian  diligences.  The  fertility 
where  there  is  water  is  unrivalled ; 
the  cochineal  or  Nopal  is  abundant ; 
the  population  is  agricultural,  and  the 
women  busy  spinners.  At  Lorqui,  near 
the  Segura,  much  rice  is  grown ;  near 
it  is  the  site  where  Publius  and  Cneius 
Scipio  were  defeated  and  killed  by 
Massinissa,  211  b.c.  The  Romans  had 
taken  20,000  Spaniards  into  their  pay, 
and  were  deserted  by  their  allies  in 
the  critical  moment,  and  left  to  bear 
the  whole  brunt  single-handed. 

Cieza,  pop.  6000,  rises  above  the 
river  on  a  peninsula  table  over  plains 
of  incredible  fertility;  on  the  oppo- 
site hill  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
Roman  town.  Hellin,  Ilunum,  a 
town  of  7000  souls,  lies  on  the  slope 
of  the  Segura  chain ;  the  Posada 
ntieoa  is  the  best ;  the  Roman  city  was 
at  Binaseda,  where  vestiges  may  be 
traced.  Hellin  is  a  tidy  town,  of  8000 
souls,  well  paved,  with  neatly-painted 
houses,  and  an  air  of  comfort  and 
aseo ;  the  parroquia  is  very  fine,  with 
3  aisles;  observe  the  ooveda,  sup- 
ported by  pillars,  and  the  masonry 
and  the  marble  pavement  at  the  en- 
trance; from  the  hermitage  of  San 
Rosario,  in  the  old  castle,  the  view 
is  extensive ;  the  Fasos,  or  graven 
images,  are  also  worth  notice.  Near 
Hellin,  2  L.  S.,  are  the  mineral  baths 
of  Azaraque,  and,  distant  4  L.,  the 
celebrated  mines  of  sulphur  known  to 
the  Romans. 


Murda, 


ROUTE  33. — MURCIA  TO  CARTAGENA. 


349 


Hellin  was  dreadfully  sacked  by  the 
French  under  Montbrun  (see  Sche- 
peler,  iii.  495) ;  and  afterwards  became 
the  point  where  Joseph,  flying  from 
Madrid,  and  Soult  from  Seville,  after 
Marmonf  s  rout  at  Salamanca,  united 
with  Suchet^  the  misconduct  of  Bal- 
lesteros,  by  disobeying:  the  Duke's 
orders  to  place  himself  in  the  Sierra 
de  Alcaraz,  left  the  way  opeff  to  the 
enemy  to  •  regain  Madrid  :  Socorros  de 
Espaiia,  From  Hellin  there  is  a  wild 
mountain  track  to  Manzanares^  14  L. 
through  the  Sierra  de  Alcaraz.  The 
high  road  to  Madrid  and  Valencia  is 
entered  at  Pozo  de  la  Pena ;  for  which 
and  Alha4:ete9QQ  Rte.  106. 


EOUTE   33. — MfECIA.  to   CAETAaENA. 

9L. 

Those  passing  to  Alicante  may  either 
go  direct  in  the  diligence,  in  some 
11  h.,  or  they  may  take  the  one  to 
Cartagena,  3  h.,  and  then  the  steamer ; 
or  they  may  ride  from  Cartagena 
to  Orihuela,  and  then  take  up  the 
Murcian  diligence  to  Alicante,  by 
which  means  they  will  see  Elche,  the 
Palmyra  of  Europe,  the  plan  we  should 
suggest.  Proceeding  to  Cartagena, 
after  crossing  the  Segura,  the  well- 
planted  good,  road  soon  ascends  a 
ridge,  and,  passing  el  Puet^o,  descends 
into  the  uninterestiug  salitrose  plain  ; 
the  Esparto  flourishes  on  this  parched 
desert,  where  the  effects  of  drought  are 
unmistakeable.  Inns,  Cuatro  Naciones^ 
Fonda  del  Leon  :  but  bad  is  the  best. 

Cartagena^  ^a^xriiw  h  n«,  Car- 
thago nova,  was  the  new  Carthage 
founded  by  the  Barca  family,  when 
they  meditated  making  themselves  in- 
dependent rulers  of  Spain  (Justin,  xxi. 
4) ;  this  name  is  a  double  pleonasm ; 
Carthago  Karth  hadtha,  meaning  it- 
self the  **«««?  city,"  in  reference  to 
old  Tjjrre.  The  admirable  port  stood 
opposite  to  the  Carthaginian  coast  and 
half-way  between  Gaddir,  Cadiz,  and 
Barcino,  Barcelona ;  it  was  their  grand 
arsenal ;  their  Sebastopol  or  naval  base 
for  aggressive  operations,  when  they 
departed  from  the  policy  of  the  Phoeni- 
cians, which,  eminently  pacific  and 
commercial,  was  satisfied  with  found- 


ing factories  on  the  coast,  and  made  no 
attempts  at  pushing  conquests  into  the 
interior;  the  Carthaginians,  who  sought 
in  Spain  for  &n  indemnification  of  their 
loss  of  Sicily,  after  the  first  Punic  war, 
carried  out  a  system  of  aggression  and 
extension. 

A  full  account  of  the  capture  of 
Carthagena  by  Scipio  is  given  by  Livy 
(xxvi^  42),  and  a  still  better  one  by 
Polybius  (lib.x).  Like  the  Duke  in  re- 
gard to  Ciudad  Rodrigo  in  our  times, 
Scipio  pounced  on  the  fortress  before  the 
enemy  could  relieve  it;  he  formed  his 
plans  with  such  secrecy  that  neither 
friend  nor  foe  even  suspected  his  inten- 
tion. The  Carthaginians,  like  modern 
Spaniards,  were  quite  unprepared ;  they 
had  only  1000  men  in  garrison,  never 
dreaming,  says  Polybius,  that  any  one 
would  even  think  of  attacking  a  place 
reputed  to  be  so  strong^  and  Scipio, 
who  knew  the  importance  of  taking 
them  by  surprise,  gave  them  no  time 
for  preparations ;  he  stormed  it  by  ford- 
ing the  marsh  duiing  a  low  tide,  and 
took  it  in  one  day. 

"All  Spain  was  in  this  one  city;" 
the  booty  was  prodigious.  Even  Livy 
was  ashamed  of  the  enormous  lying; 
*'  mentiendi  modus  adeo  nullus." 
Scipio's  conduct  as  a  general  was  ex- 
ceeded by  that  as  a  man;  brave  as 
merciful,  he  scorned  to  tarnish  hit 
great  gloiy  with  the  dross  of  pecula- 
tion, and  m  his  chivalrous  generosity- 
to  the  vanquished,  and  his  high-bred 
delicacy  towards  the  women,  deserves 
the  signal  honour  of  being  compared  to 
our  Duke.  Although  the  loss  of  this 
naval  arsenal  was  the  first  blow  to  the 
power  of  the  Carthaginians  in  Spain, 
their  leaders,  models  of  modern  juntas, 
at  first  concealed  the  disaster,  then 
attributed  it  to  accident,  and  next  un- 
dervalued its  importance,  to  deceive 
the  people. 

Cartagena  continued  to  flourish 
under  the  Romans,  who  now  called  it 
"Colonia  Victrix  Julia."  All  the 
ancient  learning  is  collected  by  Ukert 
(i.  ii.  400).  The  place  was  all  but  de- 
stroyed by  the  Goths,  who  were  not  a 
naval  people;  and  San  Isidore,  who  was 
bom  there  in  595,  speaks  of  it  as  then 
made  desolate  by  them  (Orig.  xv 


350 


KOUTE  33. — CARTAGENA. 


Sect.  IV. 


Cartagena  is  now  a  Plaza  de  Armas, 
and  gives  the  name  to  a  bishopric, 
although  Murcia  has  been  the  See 
since  1219,  made  so  at  the  petition  of 
the  clergy,  -who  -were  afraid  of  the  sea 
pirates;  for  the  ecclesiastical  history 
and  hac^iography,  consult  *  Discursos 
de  la  Ciudad  Cartagena,*  Fr^-  Cascales, 
8vo.,  Valencia^  1598;  reprinted  at  the 
end  of  his  Tobias  Baticas,  8vo.,  Mad., 
1779.  '  Cartagena  de  Espaila  ilu- 
gtrada*  Leandro  Soler,  2  vols.,  4to, 
Granada,  1614;  reprinted  at  Murcia, 
in  1777.  *  Intcripciones,'  Conde  de 
Lumiares,  4to,  Murcia,  1777-78. 

Cartagena,  now  much  decayed,  is 
a  true  picture  of  Spain,  fallen  from 
its  pride  of  place,  in  the  general  na- 
tional paralysis;  it  scarcely  contains 
30,000  Inhab.,  instead  of  the  60,000  of 
1786,  when  Charles  III.  endeavoured 
to  force  a  naval  establishment.  This 
far-famed  arsenal  was  so  reduced,  that 
Toreno  records,  when  the  war  of  inde- 
pendence broke  out,  there  was  not  even 
lead  for  bullets ;  the  few  unserviceable 
ships  then  in  it  were  only  saved  by 
our  Capt.  Hargood,  after  infinite  diffi- 
culties, raised  by  the  officials,  who  sus- 
pected him  of  evil  motives.  Yet  here 
were  fitted  out  those  fleets  which  were 
crushed  at  Cape  St.  Vincent  and  Tra- 
falgar. Cartagena,  like  El  Ferrol,  La 
Carraca,  and  other  Spanish  naval  ar- 
senals, is  in  a  wretched  condition,  not- 
withstanding its  noble  buildings,  superb 
arsenal,  and  grand  docks,  in  which 
only  ships,  men,  and  means  are  minus. 

The  port,  scooped  out  by  the  mighty 
hand  of  nature,  "  impenso  Naturae  ad- 
juta  favore  *'  (Sil.  Ital.  xv.  220),  alone 
remains  the  same ;  owing  nothing  to 
the  care  of  man,  nor  to  be  spoilt  by  his 
neglect,  it  is  the  best  on  this  eastern 
and  harbourless  coast,  and  was  ranked 
with  July  and  August  by  the  admiral 
of  Philip  II.,  when  the  monarch  de- 
manded which  was  his  safest  harbour : 
here  even  the  navy  of  England  might 
ride.  It  is  accurately  described  by 
Virgil  {Mn.  i.  163);  "Est  in  successu 
longo  locus,**  &c.  The  4  hills  described 
by  Polybius  remain  unchanged,  save 
their  names :  they  still  fringe  the  bay 
and   render  it  landlocked  and  lake- 

%    like    Balaclava.      The  botanist] 


should  examine  the  sea  weeds  by 
which  the  quays  and  groins  are  tapes- 
tried. The  island,  La  Islota  or  little 
island,  2^  m.  from  the  narrow  en- 
trance, is  also  called  La  Escbmbrera,  a 
corruption  of  the  ancient  name  Scom- 
haria,  from  the  scombri  or  mackrel 
from  which  such  famous  pickle  was 
made  (Strabo,  iii.  239).  Visit  the 
aretial.  The  best  street  in  Cartagena 
is  the  Calle  Mayor,  the  finest  Plaza  is 
La  Merced.  I'here  is  plenty  of  good 
red  marble  for  ornamental  purposes. 
To  see  the  arsenal,  an  order  must  be 
procured  from  the  Commandante  de 
Marina ;  but  ruin,  neglect,  and  empti- 
ness prevail  everywhere,  and  the  tra- 
veller will  be  pained  when  he  walks 
round  the  silent  quays ;  Terret  solitudo 
et  taC'Cntes  loci — nothing  is  busy  or 
noisy  but  the  summer  grillo,  chirping 
over  rotting  hulks  and  the  skeleton  of 
the  navies  of  Spain.  At  the  head 
of  the  harbour  is  a  fine  parade,  minus 
men,  and  a  marine  school,  minus 
scholars.  Everything  bespeaks  a 
country  out  of  elbows  and  hors  de 
combat.  The  fortifications,  barracks, 
hospitals,  arsenals,  extensive  rope- 
walks,  foundries,  basins,  and  dock- 
yards are  fine,  all  that  is  wanting  is, 
life ;  the  docks  were  formerly  pumped 
out  by  the  galley-slaves,  and  the  details 
of  Townshend  and  Swinburne,  eye- wit-  ^ 
nesses,  recall  the  hell  under  earth, 
and  the  murderous  system  of  the  Car- 
thaginians, described  by  Diod.  Sic. 
(v.  360).  The  port  of  Cartagena,  now 
there  is  no  navy,  and  commerce  pre- 
fers Alicante,  is  chiefly  used  by  the 
steamers  which  touch  going  up  or  down 
the  coast.  The  lead  and  silver  mines 
promise  future  prosperity;  meantime 
the  fish  of  this  coast  is  excellent,  espe- 
cially the  folado.  The  tunny  catching, 
the  export  of  barrilla,  and  the  mining  _ 
and  smelting,  are  the  chief  occupations 
of  the  population.  A  glass-manufac- 
tory has  recently  been  established  by 
an  Englishman,  as  here  nature  fur- 
nished abundantly  the  raw  materials 
of  sand  and  alcali,  which  no  native 
ever  thought  of  combining. 

Cartagena,  during  the  Peninsular 
war,  being  defended  by  the  English, 
was,  like  the  similarly  circumstanced 


Murcia. 


ROUTE  34. — CARTAGENA  TO  ALICANTE. 


361 


Cadiz,  Tarifa,  and  Alicante,  never 
possessed  by  the  French,  in  spite  of  all 
their  numbers  and  efforts.  The  town 
is  dull  and  unhealthy,  and  the  water 
brackish.  The  swamp  el  Almojar  is 
left  imperfectly  drained,  as  if  to  breed 
fever  and  pestilence.  The  stone  used 
in  building  is  friable,  and  adds  to  the 
dilapidated  look.  The  traveller  may 
ascend  some  of  the  heights  for  the 
view;  either  of  those  of  the  chief 
forts.  Las  Galeras,  La  Atalaya,  or  San 
Julian,  They  are  very  fine,  and  only 
now  want  guns  and  a  garrison;  yet 
even  these,  when  fully  armed,  in 
1585,  our  gallant  Draike— called  el 
pirata  Ingles  in  1850  by  Madoz,  v.  597 
— laughed  to  scorn,  when  he  took  and 
sacked  the  town,  **  singeing  another  of 
the  King  of  Spain's  whiskers."  The 
alcazar  was  built  in  1244  by  Alonso  el 
Sabio,  who  gave  the  city  for  arms 
**  that  castle  washed  by  waves."  How- 
ever torpid  man  and  water,  the  ele- 
ment of  hatred  against  their  neighbour 
Murcia  bums  fiercely :  they  never 
have  forgotten  or  forgiven  the  re- 
moval of  the  see. 

BouTE  34. — Cabtagena  to 
Alicante. 

The  coast  road  is  18  L.,  and  very 
indifferent.  Cabo  de  Polos,  the  S.E. 
Cape  of  Spain,  lies  6  L.  to  the  E.,  and 
is  the  termination  of  a  ridge  of  hills. 
The  track  passes  by  the  shallow  land- 
locked lake  la  Encanizada  de  Murcia. 
The  ride  to  Orihuela  is  9  L.  over  plains 
which  produce  the  esparto,  barilla, 
palmiio,  and  orozuz  (liquorice).  Cross- 
ing the  ridge  at  the  Venta  de  San 
P^ro,  the  b^in  of  the  Segura  and  the 
province  of  Valencia  are  entered.       * 

Orihuela,  the  Auriwelah  of  the  Moor, 
still  looks  oriental  amid  its  palm-trees, 
'square  towers,  and  domes.  It  was  the 
Gothic  Orcelis,  and  was  well  defended 
after  the  battle  of  the  Guadalete.  Theo- 
doric  here  made  a  stand,  and,  by  dress- 
ing up  the  women  as  soldiers  on  the 
ramparts,  obtained  excellent  terms  from 
'Ab-du-l-'aziz,  and  retained  his  sove- 
reignty for  life,  being  called  Tadmir 
Ben  Gobdos,  the  Son  of  the  Goth 
(Conde,  i.  50).  There  is  a  local  history 


by  F.  Martinez,  1612.  Orihuela  was 
made  a  bishopric  in  1265,  and  is  suffra- 
gan to  Toledo.  The  principal  build- 
mgs  are  the  cathedral,  which  being 
small,  was  enlarged  and  barbarised  in 
1829  by  one  Ripa;  the  armario  in  the 
Sacristia  may  be  looked  at ;  observe  the 
San  Francisco,  the  Colegio  de  los  Fredica- 
dores,  with  cinque-cento  windows :  in  the 
Santo  Domingo  is  a  sort  of  Museo  of  bad 
pictures  and  worse  books.  Orihuela  is  a 
long,  straggling,  over-churched  town, 
inhabited  by  wealthy  proprietors  and 
agriculturists:  pop.  under  17,000.  The 
university  is  now  suppressed.  There 
is  an  old  prison  near  the  Fla  de  Fruta, 
and  a  fine  gate  of  the  Colegio,  1548;  a 
modem  bishop's  palace,  1733,  with  a 
sort  of  library.  The  municipal  archives 
are  curious.  The  alameda  del  Chorro 
is  charming.  The  best  point  of  view  is 
from  the  Monte  del  Castillo  and  the 
Colegio  de  San  Miguel,  itself  a  fine  ob- 
ject from  below.  The  Segura  divides 
the  town,  and  often  injures  it  by  under- 
mining the  foundations;  however  it 
fertilizes  one  of  the  richest  plains  in 
the  world :  the  vegetation  is  gigantic, 
and  the  oleanders  are  absolutely  trees. 
According  to  the  proverb,  the  com- 
plains of  Orihuela  are  independent  even 
of  rain :  Llueva  o  no  llueva,  trigo  en  Ori- 
huela. There  is  an  excellent  treatise 
on  the  irrigation  of  this  huerta  by 
Roca  de  Togores,  1832.  The  maritime 
strip  is  sandy,  and  studded  with  brack- 
ish lakes  {lagunas),  from  which  salt 
is  extracted.  From  Orihuela  to  Alicante 
are  also  9  L.— 2  to  Alhatera,  3  to  Elche, 
and  4  on:  there  is  a  sort  of  a  dili- 
gence. 

Leaving  Orihuela,  to  the  rt.  rises  the 
metal-pregnant  ridge  el  rico  cerro  de 
oro.  The  tropical  country  and  climate 
are  veij  remarkable:  the  dusky  pea- 
santry in  their  white  bragas  and  striped 
mantas  look  like  Greeks ;  the  thatched 
cottage  of  Murcia  now  gives  place  td 
long,  low,  white,  fiat-roofed  £kistem 
buildings,  with  few  windows,  and  girt 
by  beauteous  palm-trees.  Callosa  lies 
to  the  rt.,  under  its  castle  -  crowned 
rock,  with  a  good  church  of  the.  time 
of  Charles  V.,  and  images  by  Zarcillo. 
Fxcellent  esteras  are  made  here.  This 
district  is  very  subject  to  earthquak 


362 


ROUTE  35. — PALM  TREES. 


Sect.  IV. 


thus  one  in  March,  1829,  destroyed 
many  villages,  and  particularly  Torre 
Vieja^  near  the  sea,  and  its  laguna, 
consequently  San  Emigdio,  the  especial 
tutelar  against  los  temblores  de  tierra, 
has  since  been  rather  in  disrepute. 
3  L.  from  Orihuela,  on  the  1.,  is  Crevil- 
lente,  lonj;  the  hilly  lair  of  the  bandit 
Jaime  M  Barbudo,  immortalized  by 
those  charming  writers  Huber  and 
Lord  Carnarvon.  He  surrendered  to 
Qon  Jose  Miste,  on  solemn  promise  of 
pardon  and  promotion  for  himself  and 
company,  whereupon  Don  Jose  hung 
him  forthwith,  and  put  his  head  up  at 
Crevillente,  over  the  prison,  and  then 
shot  the  rest  of  the  gan^.  Cosas  de 
Espaua.  So  in  1^65,  Enrique  JIT.  in- 
vited Eslava,  the  gallant  governor  of 
Orihuela,  to  a  meeting,  and  had  him 
murdered. 

There  is  only  one  Elche  in  Europe : 
it  is  a  city  of  palms :  the  Bedouin  alone 
is  wanting,  for  the  climate  is  that  of 
the  East.  There  is  a  decent  posada, 
and  a  good  local  history,  *  Illice*  Juan 
Antonio  Mayans  y  Siscar,  4to.  Va- 
lencia, 1771.  Elche,  Illice,  lies  about 
2  L.  from  the  sea ;  here  winter  is  un- 
known; the  town  is  flourishing,  and 
contains  some  18,000  souls;  it  is  di- 
vided by  a  ravine,  over  which  is  a 
handsome  bridge.  The  aspect  is  Ori- 
ental: the  reddish  Moorish  houses, 
with  flat  roofs  and  few  windows,  rise 
one  above  another.  To  the  left  is  the 
Alcazar ,  now  a  prison,  while  all  around 
waves  the  graceful  palm.  The  Santa 
Maria  has  a  fine  portico,  organ,  ex- 
cellent masonry,  and  a  Tabernacle 
made  of  precious  marbles.  From  the 
tower  the  extent  of  the  palm  plantations 
can  be  understood:  they  girdle  the 
city  on  all  sides,  thousands,  in  num- 
ber, and  many  of  a  ^reat  age.  The 
palm,  however,  is  infinitely  more  grace- 
ful when  seen  singly,  or  in  isolated 
groups,  than  thus  huddled  in  belts 
and  number.  Raised  from  dates,  and 
fed  with  a  brackish  water,  they  grow 
slowly,  to  some  50  feet  in  height, 
each  rim  in  the  stem  denoting  a  year. 
The  males  bear  white  flowers,  which 
blossom  in  May;  and  with  the  farina 

e  females  are  impregnated.      The 
^rs  made  this  use  of  the  male  dust 


long  before  Linnseus  discovered  the 
sex  of  plants ;  the  females  bear  fruit, 
which  ripens  in  November.  The  dates 
are  inferior  to  those  of  Barbary ;  the 
ordinary  are  much  used  as  fodder  for 
cattle.  When  ripe,  thev  hang  in  yel- 
low clusters  underneath  the  fan-like 
leaves,  which  rise,  the  umbrella  of 
the  desert,  in  an  ostrich-like  plume 
from  a  golden  circlet.  The  gatherers 
ascend  the  single  branchless,  cable-like 
stems  dexterously,  with  only  a  rope 
and  bare  feet.  The  palm-trees  are 
decreasing :  the  male  and  barren  ones 
yield  a  profit  by  their  leaves,  which 
are  tied  together  fi*om  April  to  June, 
and  blanched,  as  gardeners  do  lettuces, 
or  Spanish  mothers  bandage  up  their 
babies  ;  by  this  cruel  process — high- 
treason  to  the  majestic  palm — some 
10  stems  are  obtained  from  each, 
which  are  worth  a  dollar  in  Spain  and 
Italy,  and  are  used  for  the  processions 
of  Palm  Sunday,  being  certain  de- 
fences all  over  Spain  against  lightning, 
if  blessed  by  the  priest  who  sells  them ; 
which,  most  fancifully  and  intricately 
plaited,  are  then  hung  up  at  the  house 
balconies,  and  are  cheaper,  at  least, 
if  less  philosophical,  than  a  conductor 
made  of  iron.  The  festival  of  the 
Virgin,  Aug.  15,  in  the  Santa  Maria,  is 
curious  and  picturesque.  Those  going 
from  Elche  to  Madrid,  without  visiting 
Alicante  (for  the  latter  route  see  Rte. 
37),  must  ride  to  Albacete.  24  L.,  that 
is,  until  the  projected  royal  railroad  be 
completed. 

Route  35. — Elche  to  Madbid. 

Monforte 4 

Monovar  ......  2  ..  6 

Yenta  de  las  Quebradas     .  3  . .  9 

Yecla 2  ..  11 

Venta  Nueva     ....  2  ..  13 

Monte  Alegre     ....  2  ..  16 

Yenta  de  la  Higuera     .     .1  ..  16 

Pretola 3  ..  19 

Pozo  de  la  Fefla  ....  3  ..  22 

Albacete  ......  2  ..  2i 

The  road  enters  the  Sierras  by  the 
basin  of  the  river  Elche,  and  passes 
the  Pantano,  of  which  there  are  several 
in  these  districts.  The  sides  of  the 
hills  are  terraced  into  gardens.  After 
a  narrow  gorge,  the  road  ascends  to 
the  Pedreras  de  Elche,  and  thence  down 


Murcia, 


ROUTE  36. — ELCHE  TO  XATIVA. 


353 


to  Monforte,  in  its  pleasant  valley,  with 
its  once  strong  7noun^  fort,  now  a  ruined 
castle ;  thence  entering  a  broken  coun- 
try to  Monovarj  a  flourishing  town  built 
on  a  slope.  Near  it  is  the  chnrco 
amargOf  a  salt  mineral  water,  excellent 
for  cutaneous  diseases.  3  L.  S.E.,  near 
Pinoso  is  the  celebrated  Cerro,  or  Ca- 
beza  de  la  Sal,  an  entire  ridge  of  salt, 
hard  as  crystal,  and  of  variegated 
colour.  It  extends  E.  and  W.  nearly 
2  L.,  and  rises  200  ft.  The  mevas  or 
salt  caverns,  especially  La  Pared,  well 
deserve  a  visit  from  the  geologist.  2  L. 
to  the  N.W.  ofMonavar  is  a  lake  called 
Salinas,  which  occasionally  overflows 
and  fills  the  atmosphere  with  fever. 

The  road  now  re-enters  Murcia, 
and,  emerging  from  the  hills,  arrives 
at  Yecla,  a  large  town  of  14,000  souls, 
built  under  the  Cerro  del  Calvario,  from 
the  ruined  castle  on  which  height  the 
view  is  splendid.  .  The  district  was 
peopled  by  the  Romans,  and  vestiges 
of  their  buildings  are  yet  to  be  seen  at 
Marisparra,  now  a  farm,  where  anti- 
quities are  constantly  found,  and  as 
constantly  neglected  and  destroyed. 

Monte  Alegre,  3500  souls,  bas  a  good 
posada,  and  a  ruined  Moorish  castle 
on  the  hill  SerratUla.  Now  we  enter 
one  of  the  richest  grain  portions  of 
Murcia.  To  the  1.  of  the  Venta  de  la 
Higmra  is  the  salt  lake,  much  fre- 
quented for  cutaneous  disorders.  After 
Pretola  or  Petrola,  the  high  road  is 
reached. 

Those  going  to  Valencia  from  Elche, 
without  visiting  Alicante,  have  the 
choice  of  two  picturesque  roads ;  they 
may  ride  to  Almansa,  and  there  take 
the  dilgence,  or,  which  is  far  better, 
proceed  by  Xativa: 


Route  86. — Elche  to  Xatiya. 

Monforte 4 

Elda 3  ..  1 

Yillena 3  ..  10 

Fuente  de  la  Higuera    •     .3  . .  13 

Moxente  ......   2  ..  15 

Xativa 4  . .  19 

There  is  also  a  new  route  to  Elda, 
by  which  Monforte  is  avoided.  2  L. 
to  Aspe,  \  to  Novelda,  \  to  Elda. 

Leaving  Monforte    the  wild  road 


winds  over  las  Saliiietas,  amid  rocks  of 
reddish  marble,  through  the  fruitful 
valley  of  Elda  and  Petrel;  although 
scarcely  2  m.  apart,  the  inhabitants  of 
these  two  places  keep  up  the  ancient 
hatred  of  creed  and  race :  but  nothing 
is  so  difficult  to  love  as  your  neigh- 
bour, and  therefore  it  is  positively 
commanded.  The  Petrelians  of  mo- 
risco  origin,  although  speaking  Valen- 
cian,  abhor  the  Eldanians,  who  speak 
Castilian,  and  hold  themselves  only 
as  descendants  of  conquerors  and  old 
Christians.  Passing  the  Pantano  and 
Sax,  which  rises  on  its  conical,  castle- 
crowned  hill,  and  is  famous  for  its 
bread,  the  route  runs  along  the  fron- 
tier of  Murcia;  the  hills  abound  in 
aromatic  plants,  and  such  is  their 
traditionary  fame,  that  Moorish  her- 
balists even  yet  occasionally  come 
here  to  gather  simples.  This  broken 
frontier  country  is  full  of  points  of 
defence  and  hill  forts :  it  was  the  scene 
of  sundry  skirmishes  between  Suchet 
and  Sir  John  Murray,  and  discreditable 
alike  to  both.  At  Biar  (Apiarium, 
and  it  is  still  famous  for  honey)  to 
the  rt.,  the  latter  lost  his  guns,  which 
(as  at  Tarragona)  he  thought  a  "  trifle," 
and  "  rather  meritorious,"  to  use  the 
contemptuous  expression  of  the  Duke, 
writing  about  these  wretched  per- 
formances (Disp.  Aug.  8, 1813). 

Villena  is  placed  in  a  fertile  plain 
under  the  Cerro  San  Cristobal;  the 
streets  are  narrow  and  winding:  it 
contains  7500  souls.  This  is  the  place 
which  Lord  Galway  was  besieging 
when  he  was  inveigled  by  the  French 
into  fighting  the  rash  battle  of  Al- 
mansa, The  castle  is  still  a  grand  object : 
this  town  was  most  ferociously  sacked 
by  Montbrun,  who,  in  Jan.  1812,  had 
been  detached  from  Marmont  by  the 
express  order  of  Buonaparte,  Nov.  11, 
1811:  by  this  blunder  Marmont  was 
weakened,  and  beaten  by  the  Duke, 
while  Montbrun,  like  Ney  at  Quatre 
Bras,  was  marched  and  counter- 
marched for  nothing :  thus  he  arrived 
too  late  to  aid  Suchet,  and,  failing  in 
intercepting  Mahy  after  the  rout  of 
Valencia,  attacked  Alicante,  only  to  be 
signally  repulsed  by  the  Fnglish :  then 
he  retired,  venting  his  spite  by  bumin'' 


354 


EOUTE  37. — ^ELCHE  TO  ALICANTE. 


Sect.  IV, 


and  plundering  everything ;  a  trade  he 
had  learned  under  Massena  in  the 
flight  from  Santarem.  He  was  sent 
to  his  last  account  by  a  bullet  at  Mos- 
kowa,  Sept  7,  1812. 

At  the  Faente  de  la  Higuera^  which 
Is  an  important  strategic  point,  Jour- 
dan,  Soult,  and  Suchet,  aiter  the  rout 
of  &ilamanca,  met  with  their  retreat- 
ing forces,  and  held  a  council  of  how 
best  to  escape  into  France ;  when  Bal- 
lesteros,  by  refusing  to  obey  the  Duke*s 
-^a  foreign  generalissimo's  —  orders, 
opened  the  way  for  them  to  Madrid 
(Disp.  Nov.  1,  1812),  a  feat  blinked 
now-a-days  by  his  countrymen.  From 
this  place  the  road  branches  off  to  the 
1. ;  it  leads  over  the  Puerto  Almansa 
to  the  high  road  to  Madrid  (see  Rte. 
6),  while  to  the  1.  another  runs  to 
Xativa  by  Moxente.  Montesa  lies  to 
the  1. ;  this  was  the  chief  residence  of 
the  commander  of  the  order  of  this 
name,  founded  in  1319  by  Jaime  I., 
and  into  which  the  Templars,  perse- 
cuted by  Philippe  le  Bel  and  Clement 
v.,  were  received.  The  magnificent 
castle  was  injured  by  an  earthquake, 
March  23,  1748.  For  the  history  of 
this  order  consult  *  Montesa  Ihistrada/ 
Hippolyto  de  Samper,  2  vols,  folio, 
Valencia,  1669. 


Route  37. — Elche  to  AlicaKte. 

The  plain,  about  halfway,  is  divided 
by  a  ridge,  and  the  pass  el  Fortichon ; 
Alicante  —  Lucentum  —  ffalOf  Arabicib 
transparent  —  lies  under  its  rock- 
crowned  castle,  and  is  not  seen  till 
closely  approached.  It  is  defended  by 
a  strong  outwork,  el  Castillo  de  Fer- 
nando, which  was  built  in  1810  by  the 
advice  of  the  English,  who  paid  for  it, 
like  the  Cortadura  of  Cadiz ;  and  like 
Cadiz,  Alicante  being  also  defended 
by  our  fleet  and  men,  never  was  taken 
by  the  French.  Gen.  Montbrun  came 
up  to  the  crumbling  Moorish  walls,  re- 
ceived a  few  English  shots,  and  skulked 
back  again.  Now,  Madoz  (ii.  670), 
blinking  this,  claims  the  glory  for  the 
Spaniards  I 

The  best  inn  is  el  Vapor  ;  then  Posada 


del  Union  and  el  Lecm  de  Oro,  Alicante, 
a  purely  mercantile  place,  is  much 
addicted  to  smuggling,  especially  on 
the  wild  coast  near  Benidorme ;  hence 
the  secret  of  its  many  patriotic  pro- 
nunciamientos.  The  moment  liberty  is 
proclaimed,  license  is  the  rule;  the 
public  till  is  robbed,  the  authorities 
dispossessed,  and  vast  quantities  of 
prohibited  goods  introduced :  the 
steamers,  French  and  Spanish,  which 
touch  here,  are  said  to  do  business  in 
this  line.  It  takes  about  12  hours  to 
pass  in  them  between  Valencia  and 
Alicante. 

Alicante  is    the    residence    of    the 
English    consul.    Captain  Barrie,    an 
obliging,  intelligent  gentleman.    Many 
Eiiiglish  merchants  live  here,  who  im- 
port salt  flsh,  bacalao,  and  export  wine, 
almonds,  coarse  raisins  —  the  lexias  of 
Denia  —  and  potash  for  the  linens  of 
Ireland.      The  wines,    rich,    with    a 
rough  taste  combined  with  sweetness, 
are  used  to  doctor  thin  clarets  for  the 
British  market.  The  celebrated  Aloque, 
the  best  of  them,  ought  to  be  made 
from  the  Monastrel    grape:  however, 
the  Forcallada  Slanquet  and  Parrell  are 
used  indiscriminately,  and  hence  it  is 
said  arises  the  name  Aloque — **A  lo  que 
said  A.*'   The  fertile  Huerta  is  best  seen 
from  the  tower  at  Augues.    The  olives, 
especially    the  grosal,  are    fine ;   the 
carob-trees  numerous  and  productive. 
The  farms  are  very  Moorish,  fenced 
with  hedges  of  <*anes — arundo  donax — 
or  tied  up  with  the  esparto :  that  of  the 
Marquis  de  Penacerrada  is  worth  visit- 
ing.   The  Huerta  is  irrigated  from  the 
artificial  Pantano  de  Tibi,  4  L.,  to  which 
every  one  should  go;  and  to  the  E. 
W  the  Azuds  of  San  Jtian  and  Muchiamiel, 
This  work,  as  the  word  sudd  denotes, 
is  purely  Arabic;    the  compuertas,   or 
hatches,  are  ingenious.    Here  the  suc- 
cession of  crops  never  ceases.    There 
is  no  winter;  one  continual  summer 
reigns  in  this  paradise  of  Ceres  and 
Pomona ;  but  the  immediate  environs 
are  arid  and  unproductive  >  and  the 
swampy  coast  towards  Cartagena  breeds 
plagues  of  flies,  fevers,  and  dysente- 
ries, which  the  immoderate  use  of  the 
Sandia  or  water-melon,  encourages. 

Alicante  itself  is  a  dry  healthy  spot, 


Murcia* 


ROUTE  38. — ALICANTE  TO  XATIVA, 


366 


with  a  mild,  equable,  and  warm  cli- 
mate,  where  high  winds  and  wintry 
colds  are  all  but  unknown.    The  sum- 
mer heats  are  increased  from  the  radia- 
tion caused  by  the  white  limestone 
rock  which  shelters  the  N.  and  N.E.  of 
the  town;  the  mean  annual  tempera- 
ture is  63*7°,  and  of  the  winters  52*1°. 
The  many  English   merchants    long 
settled  here,  have  improved  Alicante 
as  a  residence  for  our  invalids ;   the 
place    contains    about    19,000   souls; 
has  a  circulo,  or  club,  and  a  fine  new 
theatre,  and  a  poor  Museo :  its  trade  is 
no  longer  what  it  was.    This  key  of 
Valencia  rose  in  consequence  of  its 
castle, ,  which  protected  it  from  the 
Algerine    pirates:    Philip  II.    added 
works,  employing  the  Italian  engine^ 
Cristobal    Antonelli.      The    rock    is 
friable;   the  black  chasm  was  blown 
asunder  by  the  French  in  1707,  after 
Almansa,  when  General  Richards  and 
his  garrison  were  destroyed  by  the 
mine.   The  castle  is  in  poor  order,  and 
not  worth  seeing.    The  city  bears  for 
its  arms  this  castle  on  waves,  with  the 
4  bars  of  Catalonia.    The  under  town 
is  clean  and  well  built ;  the  port  is  a 
roadstead  rather  than  a  harbour;   it 
lies  between  the  Capes  La  Huerta  and 
San  Pablo.    The  view  from  the  mole- 
head  is  pretty ;  a  fixed  light  is  placed 
there  95  feet  high,  which  may  be  seen 
at  a  distance  of  1 5  miles.    The  Cole- 
giata    is    dedicated  to   San    Nicolas. 
Our  "  Old  Nick,''  the  patron  of  Ali- 
cante, is  or  was  the  portioner  of  poor 
virgins,  and  a  model  of  fasters ;  for, 
according  to   Ribadeneyra   (iii.    28), 
when  a  baby  this  good  child  never, 
during  Lent,  sucked  before  the  even- 
ing, and  only  once  on  Wednesdays 
and  Fridays. 

The  first  stone  of  his  church  was 
laid  in  1616  by  Augustin  Bernardino: 
the  fine  white  material  came  from  the 
Sierra  de  San  Julian :  the  noble  dark 
portal  was  built  in  1 627.  If  this  church 
were  not  blocked  up  by  the  Coro,  it 
would  be  a  superb  specimen  of  the 
Herrera  style.  The  houses  of  the 
bishop,  of  the  Calle  de  Altamira,  and 
del  Ayuntamiento  with  its  facade  and 
miradoreSf  may  be  looked  at.  The 
Marquis  del  Angolfa,    in   the    calle 


mayor,  has  a  gallery  of  some  1000 
pictures,  all  warranted  originals  :  cast 
todos  originales,  says  Madoz  (ii.  654): 
sed  caveat  emptor.  Consult,  for  local  his- 
tory, Lucentum,  6  la  Ciudad  de  Alicante, 
A.  Valcarcel,  4to.  Val.  1780. 

Alicante,  in  March,  1844,  was  the 
theatre  of  Don  Pantaleon  Bone's  abor- 
tive insurrection ;  this  caricature  of 
"  Boney  **  was  shot  in  the  back,  with 
23  ofl&cers,  without  even  the  form  of  a 
trial,  by  Roncali,  who  soon  rose  in 
consequence  to  be  made  Count  of  Alcoy 
and  war  minister. 


RoFTE  38. — Alicante  to  Xativa. 

The  high  road  to  Madrid  passes 
through  Monforte  and  Yecla :  a  coast-  ' 
road  is  contemplated  to  Valencia  by 
Denia.  There  are  2  routes  to  Alcoy, 
and  thence  to  Xativa,  IS  L. :  that  to 
the  r.  passes  Busot,  with  its  excellent 
mineral  baths  and  wretched  accom- 
modations, and  2  L.  on  reaches  Xijona ; 
built  like  an  amphitheatre  on  a  shelv- 
ing hill,  with  a  fine  old  ruined  castle. 
It  contains  4800  souls,  and  has  2  good 
streets  looking  over  its  gardens.  The 
honey  is  delicious,  and  much  used 
in  making  the  celebrated  mazapanes, 
marchpanes,  turronesde  Alicante (rv^oi), 
the  tflmond- cakes  or  cheeses  —  the 
French  nourgat.  The  Spanish  women, 
as  those  in  the  East,  are  great  consum- 
ers of  dulces  or  sweetmeats,  to  the  de- 
triment of  their  teeth,  stomachs,  and 
complexions;  they  are  the  solace  of 
the  fair  whether  imprisoned  in  convent 
or  harem — sweets  to  the  sweet:  but 
the  goddess  of  beauty  herself,  Aphro- 
dite, had  a  liquorish  tooth,  and  piled 
honey  and  sweet  wine  on  her  rv^»v 
(Ody.  T.  68) :  cAe«e-cakes,  therefore, 
are  a  classical  cosmetic.  The  road  to 
the  1.,  however,  is  to  be  preferred,  and 
must  be  ridden :  after  2  L.  the  moun- 
tain passes  are  entered,  whence  amid 
almond-groves  to  the  Pantano  de  Tibi, 
a  magnificent  dyke,  made  in  1594, 
which  dams  up  the  torrents  of  the 
gorge  of  the  hills  Mos  del  Bou  y  Cresta, 
The  traveller  should  walk  on  the  top 


356 


ROUTE  38. — ^E.  MILITARY  AGENTS. 


Sect.  rv. 


of  this  Tast  wall  or  breakwater,  150 
feet  high  and  66  feet  thick :  above  ex- 
pands the  lake-like  reservoir,  below 
bold  masses  of  warm  rock,  with  here 
and  there  elegant  stone  pines.  Hence, 
amid  rocks  of  reddish  marbles  to  the 
straggling  Tibi,  which  hangs  with  a 
Moonsh  castle  on  an  arid  hill :  to  the 
r.  lies  C(tstallaf  in  its  pleasant  Hot/a, 
Here,  July  21,  1812,  while  the  Diike 
was  defeating  the  French  at  Sala- 
manca, did  General  de  Lort,  with  1500 
men,  utterly  put  to  rout  10,000  Spa- 
niards under  Jos^  O'Donnell,  who,  not 
choosing  to  wait  for  the  arrival  of  the 
Anglo-Sicilian  army,  formed  the  usual 
plan  of  surrounding  the  French,  in 
order  to  catch  them  in  a  net ;  he,  as 
usual,  was  caught  by  these  Tartars, 
for  De  Lort  opened  the  ball  by  order- 
ing a  few  bold  dragoons  to  charge  the 
bridge  of  Biar,  where  the  Spanish 
artillery  were  strongly  posted,  and 
overwhelmed  them  instantly.  Their 
whole  army  ran  away ;  then,  had  not 
Colonel  Roche,  with  a  handful  of  Eng- 
lish, manfully  checked  Mesclop  at  Ibi, 
Alicante  itself  must  have  been  lost. 

Koche  entered  that  city  and  was  re- 
ceived with  almost  divine  honours. 
Maldonado  (iii.  277)  ranks  this  saving 
San  Roque  with  Paulus  Emilius  and 
the  heroes  of  the  classics,  which  indeed 
he  was,  when  compared  to  the  Blakes, 
Cuestas,  and  NosotroSf  who,  in  the 
words  of  the  Duke,  "  were  the  most 
incapable  of  useful  exertion  of  all  the 
nations  that  I  have  known,  the  most 
vain,  and  at  the  same  time  the  most 
ignorant  of  military  affairs,  and  above 
all,  of  military  affairs  in  their  own 
country"  (Disp.,  Aug.  18,  1812). 

This  Boeotian  nook  of  Spain  was  the 
favoured  resort  of  another  sort  of  non- 
descripts, the  military  agents  sent  to 
Spanish  juntas  by  the  British  Govern- 
ment, the  Greens,  Doyles,  Scc.ffortemque 
Gyanif  fortcmque  Cloanthum.  While  the 
names  of  Hill  and  Picton  are  unknown, 
the  Murcian  echoes  heavily  repeated 
those  of  Don  Carlos  and  Don  Felipe, 
and  others  who  here  played  the  first 
fiddle ;  being  the  distributors  of  English 
gold  and  iron,  these  worthies  were  wor- 
shipped by  the  recipient  Spaniards,  who 
soon  discovering  their  weak  side,  set 


them  on  horseback  and  covered  them 
with  flattery,  ribbons,  and  titular  rank, 
which  cost,  and  were  worth,  nothing. 
These  rambling  missionaries,  being 
selected  from  almost  subalterns,  thus 
found  themselves  by  the  sport  of  for- 
tune converted  into  generals  and  am- 
bassadors, and  the  heads  of  these  no- 
bodies became  turned  with  new  and 
unused  honours ;  they  caught  the  na- 
tional infection,  and  their  reports  be- 
came inflated  with  the  local  exaggera-' 
tion  and  common  nonsense.  They 
were  not  altogether  uninterested  in 
keeping  up  a  delusion  which  secured 
the  continuance  of  their  employment, 
and  prevented  their  relapse  into  pris" 
tine  insignificance ;  and  their  rhapso- 
fties  became  the  sources  of  information 
on  which  Frere,  the  English  ambassa- 
dor, relied;  and  like  him,  our  poor 
cabinet  turned  an  inattentive  ear  to  the 
prophetic  doubts,  and  stern,  unpalatable 
truths  of  Moore  and  Wellington,  who 
saw  through  the  flimsy  veil  of  docu^ 
mentos  and  professions,  and  knew  the 
real  weakness  and  utter  incapability  of 
self-defence.  The  Duke  placed  small 
reliance  on  these  missions^  and  was 
anxious  that  they  should  be  discon- 
tinued, or  at  least  put  under  his  orders 
(Disp.,  May  3rd,  1812),  as  he  well 
knew  that  they  did  more  harm  than 
good,  by  fostering  foolish  hopes  and 
absurd  expectations  both  in  Spain  and 
in  England. 

At  Castalla,  April  13th,  1813,  ano- 
ther battle  took  place  between  Suchet 
and  Sir  John  Murray,  in  which  neither 
commander  evinced  a  particle  of  ta- 
lent; both  were  inclined  to  retreat, 
which  fortunately  Suchet  did  first,  as 
Soult  did  at  Albuera,  and  thus  Murray, 
like  Beresford,  remained  master  of  the 
field.  The  French  'now  claim  this 
"  affaire  "  as  their  victory,  while  the 
Spaniards  call  the  triumph  theirs,  omit- 
ting all  mention  of  the  English  (Paez, 
ii.  87).  Ibi  is  a  red,  warm-looking 
hamlet,  nested  amid  its  olives,  and  over- 
looked by  a  castle.  Alcoy  lies  2  L.  up 
the  valley.  This  day's  ride  is  full  of 
Italian  scenery,  stone  pines,  cypresses, 
and  figs  in  autumn  drying  on  reed 
stretchers,  amid  terraced  groves  of 
almond-trees.     Alcoy — Parador  de  las 


Murda. 


ROUTE  38. — ^ALCOY — ^XATIVA. 


367 


Diligencias — is  built  in  a  funnel  of  the 
hills,  on  a  tongue  of  land  hemmed  in 
by  2  streams,  with  bridges  and  arched 
viaducts.  The  N.E.  side  is  Prout-like 
and  picturesque,  as  the  houses  hang 
over  the  terraced  gardens  and  ravines. 
This  town,  of  some  25,000  souls, 
is  busy,  commercial,  and  filled  with 
coarse  woollen  dyeing  and  paper  ma- 
nufactories. Here  is  made  the  papel 
de  hiloy  the  book  Librito  defumar,  which 
forms  the  entire  demi-duodecimo  li- 
brary of  nine-tenths  of  Spaniards,  and 
with  which  they  make  their  papelitos^ 
or  economical  little  paper  cigars.  The 
peladillas  de  Alcoy,  or  sugar-plums 
made  of  almonds,  are  excellent.  Alcoy , 
being  in  the  centre  of  many  roads,  is 
well  placed  for  trade  and  militai^ 
strategies.  Suchet  held  it  as  the  key 
of  the  district.  The  medicinal  botany  is 
very  rich,  and  Moorish  herbalists  come 
here  even  to  this  day.  Alcoy  is  filled 
with  new  manufacturing  buildings, 
a  novelty  seldom  seen  in  inland  Spanish 
towns,  where,  as  in  the  East,  decay  is 
the  rule,  and  repairs  the  exception; 
the  lower  classes  have  an  air  of  sullen 
unwashed  operative  misery;  they  wear 
also  "  shocking  bad"  round  hats,  which 
give  them  a  pauper  look ;  nor  are  the 
courtesies  and  salutations  of  high-bred 
Spain  so  frequent — so  much  for  the 
civilization  of  the  **  Mill  and  Beaver." 
The  grand  day  to  be  at  Alcoy  is  April 
23,  the  festival  of  St,  George,  the  city 
patron,  who  appeared  here  in  1257 
battling  against  the  Moors.  Sham  fights 
en  costume  are  celebrated.  On  the  24th 
the  Alarde,  or  Review,  takes  place, 
when  the  discomfiture  of  the  infidel  is 
completed — few  sights  in  Spain  are 
more  national,  medisval,  and  Moorish. 
A  longish  L.  more,  skirting  a  pleasant 
river,  leads  to  Concentayna^  Pop.  about 
S500,  another  industrious  picturesque 
town,  walled,  and  with  a  grand  square 
Moorish  tower  called  el^Castillo.  Notice 
the  weeping  willows,  and  Capuchin 
convent.  Some  pictures  by  Juliano  are 
much  admired  here,  and  the  rich  tomb 
of  Diego  Benavides.  Beyond,  the  Sierras 
de  Mariola  and  Mvro  rise  above  a  plain 
studded  wiUi  villages.  Crossing  the 
ridge  to  the  1.  is  Msameta,  and  thence 


3  L.  to  Xatioa  {Jativa,  for  the  former 
name  is  now  restored). 

The  Posada  de  las  Diligencias  is 
very  good,  so  are  the  baths,  and  re- 
freshing after  the  long  ride  ;  while  the 
reader  of  Ariosto  may  fancy  himself 
in  the  identical  hotel  where  the  fair 
Fiametta,  its  Maritornes,  played  her 
prank  on  Giocondo  and  his  companion 
after  they  had  quitted  Valencia  "  ad 
albergare  ia.  Zattiva"  (xxviii.  64). 
Xativa,  or  San  Felipe,  was  the  Roman 
Setabis,  celebrated  for  its  castle  and 
linen.  The  fine  handkerchiefs  so 
praised  by  Pliny  and  Martial,  and  all 
the  fashion  at  Rome,  were  considered 
equal  to  those  of  Tyre,  from  whence 
the  art  was  introduced.  An  ancient 
inscription  records  this  ^Phoenician 
foundation :  "  Ssetabis  Herculed  condita 
diva  manu."  Bochart  (Can.  i.  35) 
derives  the  name  from  the  Punic  seti- 
buts  tela  byssi,  "  the  web  of  fine  flax." 
It  was  also  called  Valeria  Augusta  by 
the  Romans,  and  Xativa  by  the  Moors, 
from  whom  it  was  taken  in  1224  by 
Jaime  I.  He  termed  it  one  of  the  eyes 
of  Valencia,  being  the  key  to  the  S.,  as 
Murviedro  was  to  the  N.  Don  Pedro, 
in  1347,  made  it  a  city,  and  gave  it  for 
arms  a  castle  with  his  band  gules  and 
the  four  bars  of  Catalonia :  for  the  old 
coinage,  see  Florez  *  M.*  ii.  555.  Xa- 
tiva, in  the  War  of  Succession,  was 
stormed  by  the  French,  under  Asfeld, 
with  overwhelming  forces.  Defended 
by  the  people  and  "only  600  English," 
it  afforded  a  type  to  Zaragoza,  every 
house  was  defended  with  "  unrivalled 
bravery  and  firmness."  After  23  days' 
struggle  the  last  holds  surrendered; 
then  Asfeld  proceeded  to  butcher, "  the 
priests  and  trees  were  not  sufficient 
for  his  victims."  Berwick  next  or- 
dered the  city  to  be  razed,  **  in  order 
to  strike  terror  into  the  minds  of  the 
people,"  and  as  the  very  name  of  Xa- 
tiva grated  in  his  ears,  it  was  changed 
for  San  Felipe.  The  English  soldiers 
continued  to  hold  the  castle  until 
starved  out ;  they  then  surrendered  on 
honourable  conditions,  every  one  of 
which  were  "  shamefully  violated  by 
the  victors"  (Mahon,  vi.). 

Xativa  now  contains  about  13,000 


358 


BOUTE  38. — ^THE  BOROIAS. 


Sect.  IV. 


souls.  The  rivers  All>arda  and  Gna- 
damar  dispense  fertility  over  the 
Huerta:  the  climate  is  oelicioas,  the 
plain,  a  paradise  of  flower  and  fruit. 
The  Colegiata,  dedicated  to  San  Felia 
(see  Gerona),  was  built  in  1414,  and 
since  doricisedy  has  a  fine  dome  and 
an  unfinished  portal.  At  the  altar  of 
San  Gil  is  blessed,  every  Sept.  1,  the 
holy  hinojo,  or  fennel,  to  be  carried 
round  to  all  houses:  see  '  Viaje  Li- 
terario/  i.  10,  by  Villanueva,  Mad., 
1803 ;  a  useful  volume  as  regards  the 
ecclesiastical  antiquities  of  Xativa. 
The  Reja  de  la  Coro,  in  black  and  gold, 
and  the  pink  marble  BaUiaquino  of  the 
altar,  deserve  notice.  —  [N.B.  The 
marbles  of  Xativa  are  rich  and  infinite ; 
visit  the  quarries  at  Buixcarro,  in 
the  Serra  Orosa,  3  L.  N.E.] — Observe 
Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Armada,  a  singular 
virgin  of  great  antiquity ;  also  Nuestra 
Senora  de  Agosto,  rising  from  a  sarco- 
phagus supported  by  gilt  lions.  The 
Gothic  fa9ade  of  the  Hospital  is  very 
rich  and  remarkable :  in  the  Calle  de 
Moncada  observe  the  palace  of  that 
family,  and  the.  ajimez  or  window 
divided  by  thin,  lofty  marble  shafts, 
which  is  quite  Valencian.  The  Ala- 
meda, with  its  palm-trees,  is  shady  and 
Oriental.  The  Ovalo  with  its  fountain 
is  delicious;  water  indeed  abounds, 
being  brought  in  by  two  aqueducts.  A 
new  Flaza  de  Toros  has  been  raised  on 
the  ruins  of  the  Carmen  convent.  In 
the  suburbs  ascend  the  zigzag  cypress- 
planted  terraces  of  the  Monte  Calvario  : 
the  view  is  ravishing;  the  grand  castle 
is  here  seen  to  the  best  advantage. 
Next  ascend  to  this  castle,  taking  the 
Campo  Santo  in  the  way,  and  the 
hermitage,  San  Feliu,  said,  under  the 
Moors,  to  have  been  a  Mosarabic  tem- 
ple :  observe  the  horseshoe  arches,  the 
ancient  pillars  and  jaspars,  inside  and 
outside,  and  the  Roman  inscription, 
near  the  font,  "  Fulvio  L.  F."  Near 
the  convent  El  Mont  Sant  is  a  Moorish 
cistern.  The  castle  is  of  a  vast  size; 
the  Torre  de  la  Campana  at  the  summit 
commands  the  j^anorama  of  the  garden 
of  Valencia,  which,  with  all  its  glories, 
lies  below.  The  fertile  plain,  green  as 
the  sea,  is  whitened  with  quiutas  spark- 


ling like  sails.  The  health-impairing 
cultivation  of  rice  is  the  only  draw- 
back. To  the  rt.  extends  the  lake  of 
Albufera  and  the  blue  Mediterranean : 
Valencia  glitters  in  the  middle  distance, 
backed  by  the  towers  of  Murviedro  (Sa- 
guntumj). 

In  this  castle  were  confined  the  In- 
fantes de  la  Cerda,  the  rightful  heirs  to 
the  crown,  but  dispossessed  by  their 
uncle,  Sancho  el  Bravo,  about  1284. 
The  Duke  of  Medina  Cell  is  their 
lineal  descendant.  Here  also  did  Fer- 
nando el  Catolico  imprison  the  Duke 
of  Calabria,  the  rightful  heir  of  the 
crown  of  Naples.  That  ill-fated  prince 
surrendered  to  Gonzalo  de  Cordova, 
who  swore  on  his  honour,  and  on  the 
sacrament,  that  his  liberty  should  be 
guaranteed.  No  sooner  did  the  prisoner 
touch  Spain  than  every  pledge  was 
broken.  This  is  one  of  the  three  deeds  of 
which  Gonzalo  repented  on  his  death- 
bed :  but  Ferdinand  was  the  real  culprit; 
for,  in  the  implicit  obedience  of  the  old 
Spanish  knight,  the  order  of  the  king 
was  paramount  to  every  consideration, 
even  in  the  case  of  friendship  and  love 
(see  the  beautiful  play  of  'Sancho 
Ortiz*).  This  code  of  obedience  has 
passed  into  a  proverb — Mas  pesa  el  Rey, 
que  la  aangre :  and  even  if  blood  were 
shed,  the  royal  pardon  absolved  all  the 

fuilt — Mata,  que  el  Rey  perdona.  The 
ing,  as  the  fountain  of  all  honour, 
could  salve  over  dishonour.  The  LecUdad 
of  the  old  hidalgo  was  like  the  fL^ayxfi  of 
the  Greek  drama,  a  fatal  necessity.  Here 
also  was  confined  the  infamous  Caesar 
Borgia,  also  a  prisoner  of  Gonzalo' s, 
and  to  whom  also  he  pledged  his 
honour :  the  breach  of  this  pledge  was 
his  second  act  of  which  he  repented 
when  too  late.  The  Borjas  were  an 
ancient  family  of  Xativa,  and  here  in 
July,  1427,  was  bom  Rodrigo,  after- 
wards Alexander  VI.  The  Borgias 
long  monopoli;ied  the  simple  see  of 
Valencia,  and  when  Alonso  de  Borja 
became  its  bishop,  in  1429,  it  was 
raised  to  be  an  archbishopric  by  In- 
nocent III.,  and  Rodrigo  was  named 
by  his  uncle,  Calixtus  III.,  the  first  pri- 
mate :  when  he  too  became  pope,  July 
9,  1492,  he  appointed  (Aug.  81)  his 


Murcia, 


ROUTE  39. — ^XATIVA  TO  VALENCIA. 


359 


natural  son  Csesar  as  his  successor  to 
this  see,  which  after  this  renunciation 
he  bestowed  on  his  kinsman  Juan  de 
Boija,  and  again,  when  he  died,  ap- 
pointed another  relation,  Pedro  Luis 
de  Borja.  Thus  five  of  this  family  held 
this  wealthy  see  in  succession.  These 
Spanish  popes,  Calixtus  III.  and  Alex- 
ander VI.,  scandalized  even  the  Vati- 
can by  their  avarice,  nepotism,  and 
crimes, — 

'*  Vendit  Alexander  cLaves,  altaria,  Christum, 
Emerat  ille  prins,  vendere  Jure  potest. 
De  vitio  in  vitirnn,  de  flammft  transit  in  Ignem, 
Roma  sub  Hispano  deperit  imperio." 

The  Borja  family,  however,  produced 
a  paragon  Jesuit  saint,  as  if  by  way  of 
compensation  for  its  Santita  Alexander 
VI.  For  the  miracles  of  this  San 
Francisco  de  Borja,  see  his  Vtda  by 
Fedro  Ribadeneyra,  4°.,  Mad.  1 592 ;  and 
*Heroyca  Vxda*  fol.  Mad.  1726.  He 
was  the  4th  Duke  of  Gandia,  and  was 
converted  from  all  mundane  things  by 
the  frightful  sight  of  the  dead  body 
of  Isabel,  wife  of  Charles  V.,  when 
he  opened  the  coffin  to  verify  the 
contents.  At  Xativa  also  was  bom, 
January  12, 1588,  Josef  de  Ribera,  who 
going  young  to  study  at  Naples,  was 
therefore  called  by  the  Italians  *'  the 
little  Spaniard,"  lo  Spagnoletto.  He 
became  the  leader  of  a  gloomy  although 
naturalist  school,  where  more  churches 
and  convents  were  built  than  palaces, 
and  was  a  painter-monk,  formed 
by  taste  and  country  to  portray 
the  church-militant  knights  of  San- 
tiago, the  blood-boltered  martyr- 
doms, resignation  under  torture,  at- 
tenuated ascetics,  and  ecstatic  Faquirs 
of  the  province  of  San  Vicente  Ferrer, 
the  forerunner  of  the  Inquisition.  Ri- 
bera delighted  the  Spaniards,  who  will 
and  must  have  blood  and  reality ;  there 
is  no  mistake  in  his  executioner  hand- 
ling, fitted  'tis  true  rather  to  disgust 
than  encourager  les  autres  martyrs. 


Route  39. — Xativa  to  Valencia. 

Caijc^ente      .     .     .     •     .  2i 

Alcira 1     ..  3i 

Algameci 1     ..  4i 

Almuzafes     .     •    .     .     •  2     ..  6i 

Catarroja 2     ..  gi 

Valencia 1     ..  9i 

There  is  a  regular  diligence.  The 
road  runs  over  a  rich  extent  of  rice- 
grounds  and  gardens.  All  plains  are 
wearisome  to  travellers,  and  especially 
when,  from  hedges  and  fences,  nothing 
is  to  be  seen.  The  sun  is  terrible.  The 
railroad  to  Valencia  commences  at 
Alcira:  InUt  Fonda  Niteva,  This  rail  is 
indeed  no  cosa  de  Fspaiia,  and  forms  in 
this  land  of  contrasts  not  one  of  the 
least  of  changes,  as  we  pass  from  the 
national  ruts,  mules,  and  coches,  to  the 
rapidity  and  bone  repose  of  the  Great 
Western. 

The  Arrozales,  or  rice  -  grounds  — 
things  of  the  Moor — commence  here 
also ;  they  fill  the  air  with  fever  and 
mosquitos — hngefage — those,  however, 
who  can  brave  these  local  plagues  will 
find  Alcira,  a  place  girdled  by  rivers 
and  intersected  by  canals,  excellent  to 
study  the  system  of  irrigation  handed 
down  from  the  Moors.  (See  p.  383.) 
Now  the  peculiar  character  of  Valencia 
is  not  to  be  mistaken  in  the  coloured 
tilings  or  azulejos,  the  costume,  the 
reed-fences,  and  the  Algarrobas  hanging 
outside  the  Ventas ;  but  the  people  are 
poor  in  the  bosom  of  plenty.  At  Cilia 
the  Madrid  arrecife  is  entered ;  at  the 
CrvLz  del  Campo  the  city  jurisdiction 
commences :  the  infinite  votive  crosses 
denote  the  frequency  of  the  assassin 
stab,  for  which  the  Valencians  are 
notorious — that  is  if  these  frail  memo- 
rials be  not  scheduled  away  and  denied. 
In  these  days  of  steamers  and  Hand- 
books, when  long  unvisited  Spain  is 
more  exposed  to  the  '*  barbarian  eye," 
these  symbols  are  discontinued,  as  in- 
ferring a  lack  of  morality  and  civiliza- 
tion in  the  first  people  of  the  earth. 


^     60U     )  oect.  V. 


SECTION  V. 

VALENCIA. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Kingdom ;  Character  of  Country  and  Agriculture ;  Character  and  Cos- 
tume of  the  People ;  History ;  and  Works  to  consult. 


TALENCIA 366 


ROUTE  40. — EXCURSION  IBOM  VA- 
LENCIA   381 

The  Albnfera;  Denia. 


Page    '  Page 

ROUTE  41. — VALENCIA     TO     MUR- 
VIEDRO 383 

CheWa;    Portaoosli;    Segorbe;    Mor- 

vledro.  383 


ROUTE  42. — VALENCIA  TO  TARRA- 
GONA   386 

Peniaoola ;  Morella ;  the  Ebro. 


TOURS  IN  VALENCIA. 

The  S.  portions  will  be  foand  described  in  the  last  pages  of  Sect.  IV.  The  towns  are  few ; 
Klche,  Xativa,  and  the  Albufera,  are  the  leading  featvires.  The  Summers  are  intensely  hot ;  the 
Springs  and  Autumns  are  the  best  periods  for  trayelling.  Valencia  is  a  charming  Winter 
residence. 


This  Heino,  now  province,  although  one  of  the  smallest  provinces  in  Spain, 
yields  in  fertility  and  delight  to  none  of  the  others.  The  Moors  placed  their 
Paradise  at  this  spot,  over  which  they  imagined  Heaven  to  be  suspended, 
and  that  a  portion  of  it  had  fallen  down  on  earth,  "  ccelum  hie  cecidisse 
putes,"  while  the  Jews  forgot  in  it,  even  their  Sion.  This  province 
consists  of  838  square  leagues,  of  20  to  the  degree,  and  of  these  only  240 
are  level  land,  being  chiefly  the  maritime  strip,  which  extends  in  length  about 
64  m.  Tt  is  defended  from  the  cold  central  table-lands  by  ft  girdle  of  moun- 
tains, which  act  not  only  as  a  barrier  against  the  winds,  but  are  magazines  of 
timber  and  fuel,  and  reservoirs  of  snow  (an  article  of  absolute  necessity),  and 
sources  of  rivers.  Its  width  varies  from  6  to  20  L.,  being  narrowest  near 
Orihuela  and  widest  in  the  centre.  The  mountains  abound  with  marbles  and 
minerals.  The  botanist  and  geologist  should  make  excursions  to  the  Sierra 
of  Espadan  when  near  CastelUm  de  la  Plana. 

To  invalids  and  consumptive  patients  the  climate  of  Valencia  is  decidedly 
superior  to  that  of  Italy ;  there  is  a  most  delicate  softness  in  the  air,  which 
is  so  dry  withal,  that  salt  undergoes  no  change.  Bain  is  very  scarce ;  frosts 
are  almost  unknown,  whilst  the  sea-breeze  tempers  the  summer  heats,  and  the 
fresh  mountains  offer  verdurous  retreats.  This  clean,  lively  capital — a  cit/  of 
the  sea  and  sun,  with  a  climate  soft  and  mild,  and  skies  free  from  fogs  and  rain 
— offers  an  excellent  winter  residence  to  those  suffering  under  chronic  bron- 
chitis, atonic  dyspepsia,  gouty  and  calculous  diseases.  The  mean  annual  tem- 
perature is  65  •  5°  ;  that  of  winter  49  •  7°.    It  has  the  advantage  also—of  possess- 


Valencia,  character  of  the  irrigation.  3G1 

ing,  what  is  rare  in  Spain,  an  excellent  physician,  Dr.  Battles,  of  whom  Dr. 
Francis  writes  most  fiivourably.  To  botanists  the  Flora  of  Valencia  is  that  of  a 
natural  hothouse,  and  unrivalled  in  colour  and  perfume.  The  Huerta,  most 
truly  the  Garden,  is  irrigated  by  the  Turia,  or  Guadalaviar,  Arabic^  Wadda-l- 
abyddh,  the  white  river.  This  great  vena  porta  is  so  much  drained  or  bled, 
sangrado,  for  the  use  of  the  huerta  and  the  city,  that  when  it  reaches  the 
capital  in  its  natural  bed  it  is  almost  dry.  The  Moors  have  bequeathed  to 
the  Valencians  their  hydraulic  science  by  which  they  exercised  a  magic 
control  over  water,  wielding  it  at  their  bidding:  they  could  do  all,  but  call 
down  the  gentle  rains  from  heaven,  that  best  of  all  irrigations,  agua  del  cielo,  el 
mejor  riego.  The  network  of  artificial  canals  is  admirable.  The  canal  del  Eey  on 
the  Jucar,  near  Dutilla,  and  the  whole  water-system  about  Alcira  and  Aljamesi, 
deserve  the  closest  examination  of  our  engineers  and  agriculturists.  ,The  still 
existing  technical  terms  prove  whence  the  theory  and  practice  were  derived. 

The  artist  will  sketch  the  picturesque  noria,  Arabice  anaoura,  the  Cairo 
sdckiyehy  or  large  water-wheel,  which,  armed  with  jars,  descends  into  the  well, 
and  as  it  rises  discharges  the  contents  into  a  reservoir. 

The  Huerta  of  Valencia  is  irrigated  by  8  canals,  of  which  the  Moncada  is  the 
chief  main-trunk  artery  or  principal  canal,  Arabic^  "  carina  mucanual**  and  sup- 
plies all  the  smaller  veins,  acequias,  Arabic^  "  ciquia"  of  the  circulation :  this  is 
managed  by  a  reticulated  network  of  minute  ramifications,  and  dams,  azudas, 
Arabic^  sudd.  The  idea  is  simple,  but  the  execution  is  most  difiicult ;  and 
often  the  greatest  triumph  of  the  hydraulist  is  where  his  works  are  least 
apparent,  for  however  level  these  plains  in  appearance,  they  are  by  no  means 
so  in  reality.  The  chief  object  was  to  secure  a  fair  distribution,  so  that  none 
should  be  left  dry,  none  overflooded.  When  the  engineer  ceases,  the  legislator 
begins,  for  since  water  here,-  as  in  the  East,  is  the  life-blood  of  the  soil,  and 
equivalent  to  fertility  and  wealth,  the  apportionment  has  always  been  a  source 
of  solicitude  and  contention.  Rivality  has  indeed  been  derived  from  Mivus, 
the  bickerings  about  water-brooks;  and  so  the  Wells  in  *  Genesis'  (xxvi. 
20,  21)  were  named  Esek,  contention,  and  Sitnah,  hatred ;  accordingly  here, 
where  the  knife  is  always  ready,  precautions  are  taken  to  keep  the  peace. 
The  regulating  tribunal,  de  los  acequieros,  or  del  riego  de  las  aguas,  instituted  by 
Alhaken  Almonstansir  Billar,  still  exists  in  its  primitive  and  Oriental  form 
and  force ;  7  judges,  chosen  by  each  other,  out  of  the  yeomen  and  irrigators, 
the  lahradores  y  acequieros  of  the  Huerta,  sit  at  12  o'clock  every  Thursday,  iu 
the  open  air,  on  benches  at  La  puerta  de  los  Apostoles,  at  "  the  gate "  of  the 
cathedral,  and  decide  all  complaints  respecting  irrigation  in  a  summary  way. 
In  this  court  of  common  sense,  no  pen,  ink,  and  paper,  special  plead- 
ingS;  or  pettifogging  attorneys  are  permitted.  The  patriarchal  judges  under- 
stand the  subject  practically,  and  decide  without  appeal;  the  discussion  is 
carried  on  viva  voce  in  public  and  in  the  "  Lemosin,"  or  the  dialect  of  the 
people :  consult  for  details  the  Tratado  de  la  JMstribucion  del  Bio  Turia,  &c.,  F. 
X-  de  Bomill,  fol.,  Valencia,  1831,  and  V Irrigation  dans  le  Royaume  de  Valence, 
Jaubert  de  Passa.  Thus  irrigated,  the  rich  alluvial  plains,  which  bask  in  the 
never-failing  all- vivifying  sun,  know  no  agricultural  repose;  man  is  never 
weary  of  sowing,  nor  the  sun  of  calling  into  life.  The  produce  is  almost 
incredible  under  this  combined  influence  of  heat  and  moisture,  and  the 
Valencian,  with  all  his  faults,  is  hard-working  and  industrious,  and,  like  his 
soil  and  climate,  full  of  vitality.  Thus,  in  one  year,  four,  nay  five,  crops  are 
raised  in  succession.  Rice,  arroz,  Arabic^  arooz  (oryza),  is  the  great  cereal 
staple,  and  the  pest  of  the"  province.  This  source  of  wealth,  sustenance,  and 
life,  is  also  one  of  disease  and  death.  The  rice-stalks  shoot  up  from  tufts  into 
most  graceful  ears :  as  heat  and  water  are  absolutely  necessary  for  this  grain, 
many  portions  of  Valencia  are  admirably  calculated  by  nature  for  this  culture, 
since  the  rivers,  which  in  some  places  are  sucked  up,  reappear  in  marshy 

Spain, —1,  B 


ZG2  VALENCIA — ^AGBICULTURK.  S^Ct  V. 

swamps,  or  mirj  iles^  and  in  lakes,  of  which  the  Albufera,  Arabic^  "  the  Lake/' 
is  the  most  remarkable.  In  these  arrozules,  or  rice-grounds,  the  sallow  amphi- 
bious cultivator  wrestles  with  fever  amid  an  Egyptian  plague  of  mosquitos, 
for  man  appears  to  have  been  created  here  chiefly  for  their  subsistence.  The 
mortality  in  these  swamps  is  frightful,  and  few  labourers  reach  the  age  of  60. 
The  culture  of  rice  was  introduced  by  the  Moors;  the  grain  enters  largely 
into  the  national  cuisine  of  the  Valencians,  their  pilafs  and  polios  con  arroz. 
The  increase  of  these  rice-grounds,  from  their  great  consumption  of  water,  and 
injurious  effects  on  public  health,  has  lon^  been  opposed  by  the  legislature. 

The  province  produces  wine,  oil,  barrilla,  esparto,  hemp,  flax,  cochineal,  and 
fruits,  especially  flgs,  almonds,  dates,  oranges,  and  grapes:  of  these  last  the 
"  Vaienti'ts**  are  made:  they  are  a  coarse  raisin,  exported  from  Denia,  and 
called  there  Lcjuts,  from  the  lye  in  which  they  are  dipped.    The  honey  is  also 
delicious;  from  this  and  almonds  is  made  the  celebrated  sweetmeat  el  turron; 
silk  is  another  staple,  and  the  Huerta  is  covered  with  the  white  mulberry, 
"  food  for  worms. '     The  animal  spins  its  cocoon  and  is  then  destroyed  in 
boiling  water :  the  process  is  nasty,  but  as  the  peasants,,  seated  under  their 
vines  and  figs,  wind  out  the  golden  tissue,  the  grouping  is  picturesque.     The 
Ji^uio  and  black  silk,  for  Mantillas  and  Sayas,  is  equal  to  anything  made  in 
Europe.     The  profusion  of  mulberries  has  rendered  the  purple  colour  of  the 
fiMiit,  the  moradOf  a  favourite  one  with  the  painters  of  Valencia,  and  the  makers 
of  Azulejos  and  stained  glass,  just  as  the  rich  brown  olla  colour  of  Seville  was 
with  Murillo  in  Andalucia,  or  the  chorizo  tint  with  Morales  in  Estremadura. 
Valencia  is  deficient  in  animal  and  cereal  productions ;  com  and  cattle  are 
brought  from  the  Castiles  and  Aragon ;  both  men  and  beasts  eat  the  garrofas 
or  sweet  pod  of  the  Garrofal,  Alftrrobo  (Arabic^  el  (jhar*x>b);  this  is  the  carob- 
tree   (Ceratonia  siliqiiestris).     These  pods  and   husks,   which  ripen   early   in 
August,  were  the  food  of  the  prodigal  son,  and  are  everywhere  hung  up  like 
kidney-beans  outside  the  ventas,  as  signs  of  the  neat  accommod^Ltion  within. 
The  over-irrigation  diminishes  the  flavour  of  vegetables,  which  lose  in  quality 
what  they  gain  in  quantity :  "  Irriguo  nihil  est  elutius  agro."      Hence  the 
proverb  allusive  to  the  aqueous  unsubstantial  character  of  Valencian  men, 
women,  and  things :  "  La  came  es  yerbtf  la  yerha  agua,  el  kombre  m^tger,  la  mwfer 
nidi**    This  is  a  mere  play  upon  words,  for  these  ethereal  women,  whose 
minds  and  bodies  are  supposed  to  evaporate,  are  much  more  than  nothing,  and 
the  cuisine  is  excellent.     Those  who  eat  the  national  "  Polio  con  arroz      will 
never  talk  about  the  mere  **  idea  of  a  dinner,''  facetious  tourists  to  the  con- 
trary notwithstanding :  as  for  the  women,  they  will  speak  for  themselves.  The 
lower  classes  in  the  ff'tertay  who  toil  under  an  African  sun,  live  on  water- 
melons, cucumbers,  and  gazpacho,  without  which  their  **  souls  would  be  dried 
away."  (Numb.  xi.  6). 

The  sea-coast,  like  that  of  the  W.  of  the  Peninsula,  is  the  terror  of  mariners ; 
yet  it  is  not  the  iron-bound  bawier  which  fronts  the  fierce  Atlantic,  but  a  low 
sandy  line,  fringing  the  quiet  Mediterranean ;  still  it  is  open  and  portless.     The 
sea  has  a  disposition  to  recede,  and  the  coasts  to  get  shallower  from  the  detritus 
brought  down  by  the  river's  freshes.    The  whole  line  is  studded  with  Torres  y 
Atalayns,  raised  as  watch-towers  against  the  African  pirates.    The  popula- 
tion of  this  province  is  on  the  increase,  although  the  Castilian  and  Frencliniaii 
have  done  everything  to  reduce  it  to  the  solitude  of  Andalucia  and  Estremadura. 
About  the  year  1610  more  than  200,000  industrious  Moorish  agriculturists 
were  expelled  by  the  bigot  Philip  III.    In  the  next  centurv  Valencia,  leaving 
espoused  the  Austrian  side  in  the  war  of  succession,  was  all  but  exterxninated 
hj  the  French  in  1718,  and  her  liberties  taken  away ;  but  Philip  V.,  ^vrith  all 
his  enmity,  could  not  unfertilize  the  soil.    The  population  recovered  like  the 
vegetation,  and  however  in  our  times  trampled  down  by  the  iron  heel  of  SuchieVs 
military  occupation,  has  kept  pace  with  subsistence,  and  now  the  province 


J 


Valencia,  character  and  costume  of  the  people.  363 

contains  more  than  a  million  inhabitants.  Competition  renders  the  peasant  poor 
amid  plenty ;  but  he  is  gay  and  cheerful,  his  mind  and  costume  are  coloured 
by  the  bright  and  exciting  sun,  which  gilds  poverty  and  disarms  misery  of  its 
sting.  The  fine  climate  is  indeed  health  and  wealth  to  the  poor ;  it  econo> 
mises  fire,  clothes,  and  lodgings,  three  out  of  the  four  great  wants  of 
humanity.  Since  the  death  of  Ferdinand  VII.  numbers  have  gone  to  settle 
in  congenial  Algeria ;  but  in  compensation,  while  pauper  Spaniards  emigrate 
to  Africa,  French  fortune-hunters  flock  to  Spain. 

The  upper  classes  are  among  the  most  polished  of  Spain,  and  the  Valencian, 
if  un warlike,  has  always  distinguished  himself  in  art  and  literature.  Under 
the  Moors  this  city  was  the  repository  of  theological  science ;  under  the 
Spaniards  it  boasts  of  San  Vicente,  whose  miracles  have  employed  the 
pens  and  pencils  of  native  talent.  It  is  the  home  of  the  learned  divine  Juan 
Luis  Vives,  the  Bacon  of  Spaniards,  who  forget  that  their  countryman  learnt 
at  Oxford,  not  at  Salamanca.  On  these  local  worthies,  consult  *  Escritores  de 
Valencia*  Vicente  Ximeno,  2  vols,  fol.,  Val.,  1747-49.  Valencia  also  is 
proud  of  her  poet  Christobal  Virues,  and  of  Guillen  de  Castro,  the  dramatist ; 
while  her  Juanes,  Ribalta,  Ribera,  Espinosa,  Orrente,  and  March,  form 
a  school  of  painters  second  only  to  that  of  Seville.  In  the  last  century 
Valencia  took  the  lead  in  critical  learning,  send  produced  Mayans,  Sempere, 
Masdeu,  Cavanilles;  while  her  printers  Salva,  Cabrerizo,  Mallen,  and 
Montfort,  were  worthy  of  such  authors.  Valencia  was  the  first  place  in 
Spain  where  printing  was  introduced,  viz.,  in  1474,  and  in  latter  days  the 
volumes  from  the  presses  of  Montfort  vied  with  those  of  Baskerville  and 
Bulmer,  Bodoni  and  Didot. 

The  lower  classes  are  fond  of  pleasure ;  their  national  song  is  called  la 
Fiera  ;  and  their  dance,  La  Rondalla,  or  roundabout.  They  execute  this  well 
to  the  tamboril  and  dvlzayna,  a  sort  of  Moorish  clarionet  requiring  strong 
lungs  and  ears.  The  dialect  commonly  used,  the  Lemosin,  is  less  harsh  than  the 
Catalan,  which  some  have  attributed  to  the  admixture  of  a  French  Auvergnat 
idiom  introduced  by  the  number  of  volunteers  of  that  nation  who  assisted 
Don  Jaime  in  the  conquest  of  Valencia ;  for  this  dialect  consult  '  DicciotutHo 
Valenciano  y  Castellano,*  Carlos  Ros,  8vo.,  Val.  1 764 ;  or  the  more  modern 
*Vocdbulario  Valenciano  Castellano,*  J usto  Pastor  Fuster,  Val.  1821.  Ros  also 
published  a  collection  of  local  proverbs,  *  Tratat  de  Adages^  Svo.,  Val.  1788. 

In  darker  shades  of  character  the  VsJencians  resemble  both  their  Celtiberian 
and  Carthaginian  ancestors ;  they  are  superstitious,  cunning,  perfidious,  vin- 
dictive, sullen  and  mistrustful,  fickle  and  treacherous.  Theirs  is  a  sort  of 
Ugre  sinje  character ;  one  of  cruelty  allied  with  frivolity  ;  so  blithe,  so  smooth,  so 
gay,  yet  empty  of  all  good :  nor  can  even  their  pleasantry  be  trusted,  for,  like  the 
Devil's  good  humour,  it  depends  on  their  being  pleased ;  at  the  least  rub,  they 
pass,  like  the  laughing  hyena,  into  a  snarl  and  bite :  nowhere  is  assassination 
more  common  ;  they  smilci  and  murder  while  they  smile.  In  crime  statistics 
those  against  the  person  prevail.  The  Cruz  del  Campo  was  once  indeed  a  field  of 
crosses,  records  of  the  coward  stab,  and  the  province  has  been  called  Un  paraiso 
habitadopor  demonios,  a  paradise  peopled  by  devils.  The  infamous  Csesar  Borgia 
was  a  true  Valencian,  as  were  his  chosen  Sicarios  and  bravos ;  their  leader, 
Michalot  de  Prades,  who,  after  cutting  throats  with  his  hroca,  became  a  monk 
at  Monserrat,  has  bequeathed  his  name  to  the  armed  companies  of  Migueletes, 
The  narrow  streets  of  Valencia  seem  contrived  for  murder  and  intrigue, 
:\^  which  once  they  were;  consequently,  in  1777,  a  night-watch  was  introduced 
I,  ^  by  Joaquin  Fos,  copied  from  ours,  and  the  first  established  in  Spain ;  the 
^  guardians  were  called  Serenos,  **  clears, *'  fh)m  their  announcing  the  usual  fine 
,«it^i  nights,  just  as  our  Charleys  ought  to  have  been  termed  '*  cloudies.''  The 
[like'  Valencians  are  great  drivers-  of  mules  and  horses,  and  many  migrate  to 
■Si^  Madrid,  where  the  men  are  excel 'cat  Caleseros,  and  the  women  attractive 
P"^  ^      R  2 


364  VALENCIA — SUPERSTITIOX.  Sect.  V. 

▼endors  of  delicious  orgeat  and  iced .  drinks.  Like  the  Orientals,  altboagh 
wanting  in  many  essentials  and  necessaries,  they  are  rich  in  what  we  British 
have  not ;  they  may  not  be  blessed  with  carpets,  trial  by  jury,  beef,  beer, 
breeches,*  Punch,*  and  the  *  Examiner,*  but  they  have  wine,  grapes,  and  melons, 
guitars  and  love-making  ad  libitum,  and  melodrames  in  churches  gratis. 

The  physiognomy  of  the  Valencians  is  African.  The  burning  sun  not  only 
tans  their  complexions,  but  excites  their  nervous  system ;  hence  they  are  highly 
irritable,  imaginative,  superstitious,  and  ultra  mariolatrous ;  their  great  joys 
and  relaxations  are  religious  shows,  pasos,  pageants,  processions,  Comparsas  y 
Bocasj  and  acted  miracles  and  church  spectacles.  The  dramatized  legends 
and  the  "  Miracles  de  San  Vicente  Ferrer"  the  tutelar  of  the  city,  rank  first 
in  these  *'  Fiestas  de  calle"  or  street  festivals ;  many  accounts .  are  printed  of 
the  centenary  ones,  called  Sighs ;  in  these  little  children  play  a  great  part, 
dressed  like  angels,  and  really  looking  like  those  creatures  of  which  Heaven  is 
composed,  although  some  grow  up  to  be  devils  incarnate.  The  Dia  de  Corpus, 
or  procession  of  Christ  present  in  tne  Sacrament,  is  the  sight  of  Spain,  and  accord- 
ingly has,  from  time  immemorial,  been  brought  out  to  amuse  princes,  whenever 
they  chanced  to  be  in  Valencia ;  and  in  our  time  Ferdinand  VII.,  the  beloved, 
having  expressed  a  **  pious  curiosity,**  the  incarnate  Deity,  locally  present,  as  they 
believe,  was  paraded  out  to  amuse  such  a  mortal  I  Since  the  suppression  of 
convents,  the  expense  of  these  exhibitions  is  defrayed  by  the  Cof radios  y  Her- 
mandades,  of  which  there  are  no  less  than  66 1  One  of  the  most  powerful  was 
in  honour  of  the  correa,  or  leather  strap  which  the  Virgin  gave  to  St.  Augus- 
tine, thereby  supplanting  the  cistus  of  Venus. 

The  Valencian  San  Vicente  de  Ferrer,  who  led  the  way  in  preaching  the 
crusade  against  Jew  and  Moor,  renewed  the  cruel  bigotry  and  persecution  for 
which  this  Eastern  side  of  Spain  was  notorious  in  the  age  of  Diocletian  ;  his 
disciples  took  as  an  example  the  principles  recorded  in  the  inscription  copied 
at  Tera  by  Masdeu  (H.  C.  v.  Inscrip,  353),  when  a  temple  was  raised  to  the 
Mother  of  the  Gods,  on  account  of  the  suppression  of  "  Christian  superstitions  ;*' 
or  that  found  in  Spain  and  quoted  by  Muratori  (i.  99),  in  which  Nero  is  praised 
for  having  cleared  the  country  of  robbers  and  those  who  preached  this  "  novam 
superstitionem."  Their  ancestors,  bigoted  then  as  now  to  female  worship, 
spurned  the  new  Christian  religion,  just  as  the  votaries  of  La  Virgen  de  los  JDes- 
amparados  do  the  new  Protestant  doctrine,  which  refuses  the  transfer  of  adora- 
tion and  salvation  from  the  Son  to  the  Mother,  and  just  repeated  the  argument 
of  the  Spanish  pagan  in  Pmdentius  (Per.  v.  24)  against  new  gods  and  rituals. 

The  Valencians,  always  adhering  to  their  "old*'  gods,  which  had  as  it 
were  a  legal  settlement,  were  most  intolerant  of  any  competing  deity,  never 
admitting  into  their  Pantheon  any  rival.    Having  taken  the  name  of  Eoma  for 
their  city,  they  imitated  its  exclusiveness  (Cic.  de  Leg.  ii.  8)  ;  for  the  Romans 
attributed  plague  to  the  worship  of  foreign  gods  (Livy,  iv.  30),  and  burnt  the 
mass  books  of  strange  religions  (Livy,  xxxix.  16),  just  as  Ximenez  did  the 
Koran:  in  vain  in  1715  the  government  wished  to  introduce  at  Valencia  the 
Madrid  saints*  days  and  calendar,  in  order  to  preserve  some  degree  of  unity 
and  uniformity  in  the  soi-disant  one  and  the  same  faith  and  practice :  what  was 
the   reply? — **no  parecia   cosa   conveniente   introducir  aqui  Santos   incognitos   y 
excluir   a   los  naturales  y   algunas  festividades  ah  antiquo  celebradas**    (Villa- 
nueva,  ii.  160),    They  refused  to  exchange  their  native  saints  and  household 
gods  for  strange  ones.     Their  patron  was  San  Vicente,  not  San  Isidro :  what's 
Hecuba  to  them?    Nor  are  such  religious  feelings,  deep-fanged  like  trees 
rooted   on  the  tomb  of    Geryon,  to  be  plucked  up  without  drawing  blood. 
Tutelars  in  fact  are,  and  even  religion  is,  local  in  Spain,  the  worship  of  the 
Virgin  alone  excepted ;  she  is  the  great  Diana  of  Valencia,  and  the  first  book 
ever  printed  in  Spain  was  here  and  in  her  honour :— *  Obres  o  Trobes—de  lohor  de 
'a  Sacratissima  Verge  Maria,*  4to.,  1474  ;  and  Villanueva  (i.  108)  prints  in  1803 


I 

J 


Valenaa,  costume — works  to  consult.  365 

a  Te  Deum  Marial,  in  which  she  is  thus  acknowledged  to  be  their  goddess, 
"Te  Matrem  Dei  laudamus,  te  Dominam  confitemur,  te  dominationes  h-oiiorant 
Angelorum — Dominam ;  Tu  es  Regina  ccBlonim,  tu  es  Domina  Angelorum — 
tu  es  nostra  interventrix — Fiat  misericordia  tiuif  Domina,  super  nos,  ut  tua 
mansaetudini  grati  simus  ;  in  tey  Domina^  sperantes,  perfraamur  tuis  aspectibus 
in  SBternum."  Again  the  Valencian  University  was  the  first  in  1530  to  swear  to 
defend  iier  immaculate  conception. 

The  male  costume  of  Valencia  is  antique  and  Asiatic :  the  men  wear  the 
hempen  sandal  or  alpargata,  called  also  espardinies,  and  their  legs  are  either 
naked  or  covered  with  stockings  without  feet ;  these  Greek  leggings,  greaves, 
the  media  Valencianaf  are  a  common  metaphor  for  a  Spanish  student's  purse. 
The  white  linen  drawers  are  very  classical,  and  are  called  calces  de  traveta, 
bragas,  or  sarahuellSy  the  original  Arabic  name.  Those  curious  in  the  learn- 
ing of  breeches  may  compare  them  with  the  Celto-Gallo  bracccBy  the  Greek 
KvTatrffis,  the  l^omoic  fottstanellif  the  Highland  kilt  breeks,  and  the  bragon  bras 
of  Brittany.  These  are  the  small-clothes  which  Augustus,  when  at  Tarragona, 
put  on  in  order  to  please  the  natives,  as  George  IV.  did  the  kilt  at  Edinburgh, 
thereby  displeasing  the  Lowlanders.  Augustus,  however,  set  the  fashion,  and 
they  became  so  wide  that  sumptuary  laws  were  passed  to  curtail  these  broad- 
bottomed  extravagancies.  The  Maragatos  in  the  Vierzo  still  continue  to 
oflfeud,  "  more  honoured  in  the  breach  than  the  observance."  Their  waists 
are  girdled  by  a  gay  silken  sash,  faji;  the  upper  man  is  clothed  with  a 
velvet  or  gauay  jacket,  jakco,  with  open  shirt-sleeves ;  over  the  shoulder  is 
cast  the  manta,  the  many-coloured  plaid,  which  here  does  the  duty  of  the  Cas- 
tilian  capa ;  on  the  head,  and  long,  lanky,  red  Indian-like  hair,  is  bound  a  silk 
handkerchief,  which  looks  in  the  distance  like  a  tuiban.  These  bragas,  and 
the  manta  of  every  stripe  and  hue,  are  exactly  what  Tacitus  has  described 
(H.  ii.  20) —  Versicolore  sagulo  braccasy  tegmen  barbarum.  It  is  the  "  coat 
of  many  colours"  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament  (Gen.  xxxvii.  3). 

The  Valencian  women,  especially  the  middle  and  better  classes  in  the  capital, 
are  by  no  means  so  dark  complexioned  as  their  mates ;  singularly  well  formed, 
they  are  among  the  prettiest  and  most  fascinating  in  all  Spain ;  they  sit  at 
work  in  the  open  streets,  and  as  they  wear  nothing  on  their  heads  but  their 
hair,  **  their  glory,*'  they  have  to  us  a  dressy  look.  Their  ornaments  are  most 
classical ;  the  roll  of  hair,  el  monoy  is  pierced  with  a  silver-gilt  pin,  with  knobs, 
the  acus  crinatoria  of  Martial  (ii.  6C ;  acus  crinalis  Apal.  Met.,  viii.  543)  ;  it  is 
called  aulla  de  rodete ;  the  silver-gilt  comb  is  the  pinteta,  and  one  of  a  singular 
triangular  shape  is  called  la  pieza,  la  llase ;  this  is  frequently  engraved  with 
the  great  local  patroness,  Nuestra  Seuora  de  los  Desamparados;  the  cross  is  called 
la  creu.  As  the  Valencians  are  no  less  ignorant  than  superstitious,  talismans 
and  small  penates,  or  idols  of  saints  in  silver,  are  sold  in  great  quantities,  as 
also  little  hands  and  horns,  the  old  phallic  antidote  to  the  evil  eye,  el  m^l  de  ojo, 
which  is  dreaded  here,  as  much  as  among  the  Pagans,  Moors,  and  Neapolitans. 

The  collector  of  topography  and  local  history  will  find  an  ample  field  in  the 
many  tomes  which  treat  of  Valencia  and  its  province  and  worthies ;  happy, 
thrice  happy  he  who  sees  on  one  goodly  shelf  clean  and  perfect  copies  of  the 

*  Coronica'  of  Pero  Anton  Beuther,  2  vols,  fol.,  Val.  1546-51  ;  2nd  part,  1551- 
63;  or  the  edition  1  vol.  fol.,  Val.  1604-5;  very  rare  to  complete  ;  the  volume 
with  the  linajes  displeased  the  nobility,  who  bought  it  up  and  burnt  it ;  the 

*  Ghronyca*  of  Martin  de  Vicy ana,  black  letter,  2  vols,  fol.,  Val.  1564;  *  Anales 
del  Regno  de  Valencia^  Francisco  Diago,  fol.,  Val.  1613  ;  the  *  Historia^  in  two 
parts,  by  Pero  Anton  Beuther,  1  vol.  fol.,  Val.  1538,  or  2nd  edit.  1551 ;  3rd 
1604 ;  the  *  Historia,*  by  Gaspar  Escolano,  2  vols,  fol.,  Val.  1610-11  ;  *  Sagrario 
de  Valencia/  Alonso  del  Castillo  Solor^ano,  1  vol.  duo.,  Val.  1635 ;  *  Lithologia,* 
Joseph  Vicente  del  Olmo,  4to.,  Val.  1653;  *  liesumen  Historial  de  Valencia^* 
Pasqual  Esclapes  de  Guillo,  4to.,  Val.  1738.    And  for  the  worthies,  *  Escritores 


366 


VALENCIA. 


Sect.  V. 


del  Beyno  de  Valencia,*  Vicente  Ximeno,  2  vols.  foL,  Val.  1747-49  ;  *  Biblioteca 
Vaknciana*  Justo  Pastor  Foster,  Val.  1827, — ^both  of  which  are  excellent 
works;  *  Elogio  funebre  de  los  Valenciamos*  Pujalte,  8vo.,  Val.  1813;  *Viaje 
JAterario*  Joaquin  Lorenzo  Villanueva,  vols  1  and  2,  8vo.,  Mad.  1803.  The 
Manually  Jose  Garulo,  1841,  is  a  useful  guide.  For  Natural  History,  the 
excellent  *  Obscrvaciones,*  Antonio  Josef  Cavanilles,  2  vols,  fol..  Mad.  179.5-97, 
with  a  very  accurate  map  of  the  province.  Consult  also  Ponz,  vol.  iv.,  and 
*  Espafla  Sagrada*  viii.  *  Historia  de  Valencia^  Vicente  Boix,  3  vols.  4to., 
1845. 

Mem. — Collectors  of  Spanish  books  will  find  some  excellent  basil  skins  for 
their  bindings  at  Valencia,  called  pellejos  chispeados,  or  jaspeados :  the  colours 
are  gay,  the  patterns  fantastic.  This  leather  is  or  was  chiefly  used  in  lining 
TartanaSy  now  alas  I  on  the  way  to  be  superseded  by  linings  k  la  Long  Acre. 


VALENCIA.  Inns,  Fonda  del  Cid, 
Plaza  de  Arzobispo,  near  the  cathedral : 
small  but  very  comfortable,  with  a 
good  table  d'hote  at  2^  and  5.  French 
and  English  spoken  and  newspapers 
taken  in.  Posada  de  las  Diligencias, 
Plaza  de  Villaraza;  Fonda  Francesa, 
kept  by  Monsieur  Laurent,  with  table 
d'hote  at  6  for  10  reals;  Hotel  de 
Madnd;  Fonda  de  Europa,  Plaza  de  la 
Constitucion  (where  Fran9ois  I.  was 
lodged).  The  Casas  de  Pupilos  are 
indifferent ;  the  best  is  in  the  Calle 
de  Cabalieros.  The  best  booksellers 
are  Mallen,  Cabrerizo,  Calle  San  Vi- 
cente. Cafe,  del  Sol,  Calle  de  Zara- 
goza.  Delicious  Orchdtas  are  sold  en 
el  Mercado  and  el  Patau.  The  baths 
are  good,  especially  those  of  Espinosa, 
and  in  the  "Hospital."  Valencia  is 
well  supplied  with  shops  ;  the  Plateria 
should  be  visited,  as  the  silver  flowers 
made  for  the  hair  are  peculiar,  and 
still  more  so  are  the  ornaments  a  la 
antique,  made  for  the  peasants. 

The  name  of  Valencia,  this  town 
and  province  of  unsubstantial  disre- 
pute, is  fondly  derived  from,  or  con- 
sidered equivalent  to  ROMA,  because 
VwfAVi  in  Greek  signifies  power,  as  Va- 
lentia  does  in  Latin,  llius,  because 
for  a  wonder  Valencia  was  not  taken 
in  1843  by  the  Esparterists,  owing 
solely  to  the  treachery  of  Zabala,  the 
wishy-washy  citizens,  valientes  con  los 
dientes,  and  hares  not  lions,  petitioned 
to  be  called  "  magnanimous.'"  Valentia 
was  founded  by  Junius  Brutus  for  the 
veterans  who  had  warred  under  Vi- 
"iatus  (Livy,  ep.  lv.\   It  was  destroyed 


by  Pompey,  and  when  rebuilt  became 
a  '*  Colonia,'*  and  the  capital  of  the 
Edetani.    Tak^n  from  the   Goths  by 
the  Moors  under  'Abdu-l-'aziz,  son  of 
Musa  Ibn  Nosseyr,  in  712,  it  was  an- 
nexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Cordova ; 
when  the  Umraeyah  dynasty  fell  to 
pieces,  it  threw  off  its  allegiance  in 
1056.    The  Christians,  as  usual,  took 
advantage  of  these  intestine  dissensions 
between  rival  rulers,  and  Alonso  VI. 
placed  Yahya  on  the  throne,  and  sur- 
rounded him  with  Spanish  troops.  This 
created  an  insurrection :  a  rebel  chief, 
one  Ibn  Jehaf,  murdered  Yahya,  and  a 
pretext  was  afforded  for  Spanish  inter- 
ference, and  the  celebrated  guerrillero, 
the  Cid,  aided  by  the  local  knowledge 
and  influence  of  Alvar   Fanez,  took 
Valencia,  which   capitulated   after   a 
siege  of  20  months,  a.d.  1094-5.     The 
first  act  of  the  Cid,  whose  perfidy  and 
cruelty  is  the  theme  of  the  Arabian 
annalists,  was  to  burn  Ibn  Jehaf  alive 
on  the  great  plaza  (see  Conde,  Xerif 
Aledris,   165,  and  more  fully  *  Moh. 
D.'  ii.  Ap.  xxxix.).     Here   he   ruled 
despotically   until   his  death  in  1099, 
when  the  Moor,  Oct.  25,  1101,  dispos- 
sessed his  widow  Ximena,  but  Valencia 
was  retaken  Sept.  28,  1228  (others  say 
Sept.  29,  1239),  by  Jaime  I.  of  Aragon, 
and  was  brought  into    the    Castilian 
crown  by  Ferdinand's  marriage  w^ith 
Isabella,  being  inherited  by  their  grand- 
son Charles  V .     The  first  blow  to  its 
prosperity  was  dealt  by  the   bigoted 
and  barbarous  expulsion  of  the  indus- 
trious   Moriscoes,   under   Philip   III. 
The  second  was  given*  by  Philip  V. 


Valencia, 


VALENCIA  DEL  CID. 


367 


Valencia,  as  it  had  flourished  under  the 
Austrian  dynasties,  opposed  the  French 
claim,  and  was  robbed  of  its  liberties 
and  gold  by  Philip  V.    The  remem- 
brance of  past  ill  usage,  and  the  dread 
of  future,  induced  the  populace  to  rise 
instantly  on  the  news  of  Murat's  but- 
cheries of  the  Dos  deMayOf  1808.  Then 
the  tree  of  patriotism   and  independ- 
ence,  watered   everywhere  else   with 
blood,  was  inundated  in  this  land  of 
irrigation :  363  French  residents  were 
massacred,  June  5,  1808,  in  the  Plaza 
de  loros,  butchered  to  make  a  Valencian 
holiday;  the  mob,  nothing  loth,  were 
goaded   on  by  the   canon    Balthazar 
Calvo;  the  few  French  who  escaped 
were  saved  by  an   Englishman,  Mr. 
Tupper,  and    this    while   Buonaparte 
and  his  Moniteur  were  ascribing  every 
horror  in   Spain   to  la  perfide   Albion. 
Moncey  advanced  in  June  with  8000 
men,  and  had  he  not  loitered  the  25th 
at  the  Venta  de  BuHol,  Valencia  must 
have  fallen,  as  in  the  valiant  town  all 
was    cowardice   and    confusion :    the 
generals  and  nobles  wanted  both  hearts 
and  heads;   but  while  they  fled,  their 
vassals  combated.  A  bold  monk  named 
Rico  animated  the  populace,  and  Mon- 
cey was  beaten   back,   retiring  with 
gi^eat  loss  on  Almansa,  and  there,  had 
the   Conde  de   Cervellon  shown  either 
courage  or  brains,  not  one  of  the  enemy 
could    have    escaped.      Subsequently 
Blake,  after  courting  defeat  near  Mur- 
viedro,  fell  back  on  the  city,  and,  on 
Suchet's   advance,   concluded    his  in- 
glorious career  by  surrendering  with 
20,000  men  and  390  guns ;  "  misfor- 
tunes to  be  attributed,     said  th^  terse 
Duke    (Disp.,  Jan.    20,    1812),   "  to 
Blake's  ignorance  of  his  profession  and 
Mahy's     cowardice    and    treachery." 
Suchet  pledged  himself  that  no  man 
should  be  molested,  but  no  sooner  was 
he  master  of  the  city  than  he  put  to 
death  all  who  had  most  distinguished 
themselves  in  the  national  cause,  and 
continued  his  executions  through  all 
the    province,    from    which,     in    38 
months,  he    extorted   37   millions   of 
reals,   while  his  bombs  and  pickaxes 
created  irreparable  loss  to  literature 
and  the  fine   arts.    When  Wellington, 
at  Vitorir^  repaired  the  failures  of  the 


Spaniards  before  Valencia,  Suchet  eva- 
cuated the  impoverished  city  July  5, 
1813,  and  Francisco  Javier  Elio  en- 
tered. Here  he  welcomed  Ferdinand 
VII.,  April  16,  1814;  who,  hearing  of 
Buonaparte's  downfall,  determined  to 
upset  the  Cortes,  and  found  a  tool  in 
this  servil  Elio,  who  during  the  struggle 
had  been  a  time-server,  and  so  dis- 
graced at  Biar  and  Castalla  as  to  be 
suspected,  says  Napier  (xxi.  1),  of  a 
treacherous  understanding  with  the 
French.  This  "Monk"  of  the  re- 
storation was  rewarded  by  being 
made  Captain  -  General  of  Valencia, 
where  he  signalized  himself  by  per- 
secuting his  former  friends,  by  whom 
he  was  murdered  in  1822,  when  the 
Constitucion  was  in  power.  Cosas  de 
Espana.  In  1838  the  valiant  city 
trembled  at  the  mere  approach  of 
Cabrera,  1840;  Christina  abdicated 
here,  and  Espartero  became  Regent; 
and  here,  in  1843,  Narvaez  was  wel- 
comed to  upset  him,  and  be  rewarded 
with  the  tiile  of  Valencia. 

Valencia  del  Cid  is  the  capital  of  its 
province^  the  see  of  an  archbishop, 
the  residence  of  a  captain-general,  for- 
merly a  viceroy,  and  has  an  audiencia 
or  supreme  court  of  justice,  a  univer- 
sity, theatre,  Plaza  de  Toros,  museo^ 
and  two  public  libraries,  and  the  usual 
prisons,  hospitals,  barracks,  &c.  It 
is  a  cheap  well-supplied  city,  for  here 
fish,  flesh,  fruit,  and  green  herbs 
abound.  The  society  is  easy,  and 
there  is  a  good  Casino  or  club  to  which 
strangers  are  easily  introduced;  the 
climate  delicious,  the  winter-shoot- 
ing first-rate;  the  pop.,  including 
the  suburbs,  reaches  70,000.  It  has  a 
cathedral  and  14 parish  churches;  the 
countless  convents,  first  plundered  in 
the  war,  are  now  suppressed.  The 
city  in  shape  is  almost  circular ;  the 
Turia  flows  along  the  N.  base:  the 
sandy  bed  of  this  exhausted  river  is 
crossed  by  5  wide  bridges,  which 
serve  as  viaducts  in  time  of  inunda- 
tions. The  tapia,  battleroented  walls, 
built  in  1356  by  Pedro  IV.,  are  very 
perfect  and  picturesque.  Walk  round 
them.  There  are  8  gates  ;  some  retain 
their  towers  and  machicolations;  that 
of  £1  Serranos,  hegwTL  in  1349,  and  of 


368 


VALEXCIA — ^EL  MICALET, 


Sect.  V. 


El  Caarte,  1444,  are  used  as  prisons 
(Newgates).  Outside  the  latter  is  the 
Plaza  de  Toros,  and  the  highly  inter- 
esting Botanical  Garden ;  indeed  this 
is  a  city  of  flowers;  and  here  the 
French  under  Moncey  were  repulsed 
by  Rico  and  Tupper.  The  city  inside 
is  very  Moorish  and  closely  packed, 
with  few  gardens  within  the  walls  ; 
the  streets  in  general  are  narrow  and 
tortuous,  and  the  houses  lofty  and 
gloomy-looking,  but  admirably  calcu- 
lated to  keep  out  the  enemy,  heat. 

Those   who  land   only   for  a   few 
hours  from  the  steamer,  may  obtain  a 
rapid  general  notion  of  the  best  parts 
of  Valencia,  by  taking  the  rail  from 
the  Grao  or  by  jumping  into  a  ^ar^ani — 
make  your  bargain  as  to  fare— and 
driving  round  the  following  course: 
Start  from  the  great  door  of  the  ca- 
thedral, passing  down  the  Calle  de 
Zaragoza  into   the  Calle  San  Martin 
and  San  Vicente,  coming  back  by  the 
Calle  San  Fernando,  to  the  Mercado ; 
thence  by  the  Calle  del  Cuarte  and 
Caballeros,  turning  to   the  1.  by  the 
Calle  de  Serranos,  and  going  out  at  the 
gate  to  the  banks  of  theTuria ;  thence  to 
the  Puerta  del  Real,  crossing  over  and 
following  the  Alameda,  and  recrossing 
ai  the  Puerta  deL  Mar  to  the  Glorieta, 
and  then  back   again   by  the  pretty 
planted  road  to  the  Grao.     The  streets 
are   in  some    cases  left   unpaved,  in 
order  that  the  scrapings  may  furnish 
manure  for  the  Huerta :  all  this  is  ma- 
naged by  El  tribunal  del  repeso,  whose 
president  is  the  exact  Roman  jEdilis 
and  Moorish  Almotacen.     N.B.   For. 
excursions  in  the  Huerta,  hire  a  Tartana, 
the  common  Valencian  yehicle,  which 
resembles  a  dark  green  covered  taxed 
cart;  the  type  is  the  Oriental  or  Turkish 
Araba.  It  may  be  compared  to  a  Vene- 
tian Gondola  on  wheels,  and,  like  that, 
although  foi'bidding-looking,  often  con- 
tains a  deal  of  fun,  like  mourning- 
coaches  when  the  funeral  is  done.  The 
name  is  taken  from  a  sort  of  felucca, 
or  Mediterranean  craft.     Now-a-days, 
in    the    civilization    mania,    English 
bronghams,    and     French     cabriolets 
are  superseding  the   national  vehicle. 
Good  riding  horses  may  be  hired  at  el 
'^'"on  de  Terueh 


The  first  thing  which  the  Cid  did 
on  capturing  Valencia  was  to  take  his 
wife  and  daughters  up  to  a  height,  and 
show  them  all  its  glories.  Ascend, 
therefore,  the  cathedral  tower,  which 
is  open  from  8  to  12  A.M.,  and  from  2 
to  5  P.M. ;  it  is  called  El  Aficalet,  or 
del  Migueletef  because  its  bells  were 
first  bong  on  St.  Michael's  Feast. 
This  isolated  octangular  Gothic  belfry 
is  built  with  a  brownish  stone,  1 62  ft. 
high,  and  disfigured  by  a  modem  top. 
It  was  raised  in  1.381-1418  by  Juan 
Franck  (see  the  inscription),  and  was 
intended  to  have  been  350  ft.  high ; 
the  panorama  is  very  striking,  nay,  to 
the  northern  children  of  the  mist  and 
fog,  the  bright  sky  itself  is  wonder 
enough,  giving  a  glimpse  of  the  glory  of 
heaven,  an  atmosphere  of  golden  light 
which  Murillo  alone  could  paint  when 
wafting  his  Blessed  Virgin  into  Para- 
dise. The  air  is  also  so  clear  and  dry 
that  distant  objects  appear  as  if  quite 
close.  By  taking  up  the  map  of  the 
town  by  Francisco  Ferrer,  the  disposi- 
tion will  be  soon  understood.  The 
streets  are  so  narrow  that  the  openings 
scarcely  appear  amid  the  irregular, 
close-packed  roofs,  of  which  many  are 
flat,  with  cane  cages  for  pigeons,  of 
which  the  Valencians  are  great  fan- 
ciers and  shooters.  The  spires  rise 
thickly  amid  blue  and  white-tiled 
domes ;-  to  the  N.  are  the  hills  of  Mur- 
viedro,  Saguntum ;  the  Huerta  is 
studded  with  Alguerias,  farm-houses 
and  cottages,  thatched  like  tents,  and 
glittering  like  pearls  set  in  emeralds. 
In  the  Micalet  is  the  great  bell,  Z,a 
Vela,  which,  like  that  of  the  Alhambra, 
gives  warning  of  irrigation  periods. 

The  cathedral,  La  Seo,  the  See,  was 
built  on  the  site  of  a  Roman  temple 
of  Diana,  It  was  dedicated  to  the 
Saviour  by  the  Christian  Goths,  to 
Mahomet  by  the  Moors,  and  to  the 
Virgin  by  the  mariolatrous  Spaniards, 
thus  restoring  it  to  a  primitive  female 
deity.  This  cathedral  was  raised  to 
metropolitan  rank,  July  9,  1492,  by 
Innocent  VIII. ;  Rodrigo  de  Borja, 
afterwards  Alexander  VI.,  being  the 
first  archbishop.  The  suffiragans  are 
Segorbe,  Orihuela,  Mallorca,  and  Mi- 
norca.    This  edifice,  one  of  the  least 


Vcdencia, 


CATHEDEAL. 


369 


remarkable  of  Spanish  capitals,  has 
been  vilely  modernized  inside  and 
outside;  begun  in  1262  by  Andres 
de  Albalat,  the  third  bishop,  the 
original  edifice  was  much  smaller, 
extending  only  to  the  chapel  of  San 
Francisco  de  Borja  ;  it  was  lengthened 
in  1482,  by  Valdomar;  but  as  the 
height  of  the  first  building  was  pre- 
served, it  now  appears  low  and  dispro- 
,  portioned  to  the  length.  The  ori- 
ginal style  was  Gothic,  but  the  interior 
was  Corinthianised  in  1760  by  Anto- 
nio Gilabert;  the  principal  entrance 
is  abominable,  the  receding  circular 
form  being  in  defiance  of  all  archi- 
tectural propriety.  It  was  modem- 
ijsed  by  one  Corrado  Rodulfo,  a  Ger- 
man, and  presents  a  confused  unsightly 
jumble  of  the  Corinthian  order,  wiUi 
bad  statues  of  the  local  saints,  Vicente 
de  Ferrer,  Luis  Beltran,  and  others, 
by  Ignacio  Vergara,  a  pupil  of  Ber- 
nini. The  Gothic  interior  has  3 
aisles,  with  a  semicircular  termination 
behind  the  high  altar.  The  transept 
and  fine  cimbono,  built  in  1404,  are 
the  best  portions :  here  2  Gothic  gates 
face  each  other ;  one  de  los  ApostoleSj 
with  figure  of  the  Virgin  and  sera- 
phims,  the  other  del  Palau^  with  the 
heads  of  the  7  couples  who  contri- 
buted to  repeople  Valencia,  when  con- 
quered by  the  Christians  (see  Madoz, 
XV.  376) ;  behind  the  circular  end  is 
the  celebrated  chapel  of  Nuestra  Seuora 
de  los  Desamparados. 

The  Corinthian  Silleria  del  Coro  is 
carved  in  walnut :  this  with  the  bronze 
portal  were^iven  by  the  Canon  Miedes* 
The  elaborate  Trascoro  was  wrought 
in  alabaster  about  1466,  although  it 
scarcely  appears  so  old.  A  variety  of 
holv  subjects  in  high  relief,  6  on 
each  side,  are  set  in  8  reddish  pillars 
with  gilt  Corinthian  capitals;  the 
high  altar  was  unfortunately  modern- 
ist in  1682.  The  original  Retablo 
was  burnt  on  Easter  Sunday,  May  2 1 , 
1460,  having  been  set  on  fire  by  a 
pigeon  bearing  lighted  tow,  which 
was  meant  to  represent  the  Holy 
Ghost  in  some  rdigious  ceremony. 
The  altar  mayor  was  restored  in  1498 
in  exquisite  silver-work  by  Jaime  Cas^ 
tellnou,  the  Maestro  Cetina,  and  Na- 


dal  Yoo,  but  most  of  the  bullion  was 
stiipt  off  and  meltM  in  1809.  The 
painted  door-panels,  once  framed 
with  plate,  escaped,  and  of  these 
Philip  IV.  well  remarked,  that  if  the 
altar  was  of  silver  they  were  of  gold : 
they  are  painted  on  both  sides  and  in 
a  very  fine  Florentine  manner,  and 
have  been  attributed  to  Leonardo  da 
Vinci,  or  at  least  to  his  pupils  Pablo 
de  Aregio  and  Francisco  Neapoli, 
1506.  Villanueva  (i.  39),  however, 
thinks  them  to  be  the  works  of  Felipe 
Paulo  de  Santa  Leucadia,  a  Burgun- 
dian  artist.  They  were  ordered  and 
paid  for  by  Rodrigo  Borja  in  1471, 
who,  whatever  his  vices,  was  a  magni- 
ficent prince,  as  his  decorated  chambers 
in  the  Vatican  still  evince.  Observe 
particularly  the  Nativity,  Ascension, 
Adoration,  Pentecost,  the  Death, 
Resurrection,  and  the  Ascension  of 
the  Virgin.  The  finest  is  perhaps 
that  to  the  bottom  on  the  rt. ;  the  dead 
figure  is  grand,  while  those  in  the 
foreground  are  superior  to  Masaccio, 
Observe  also  the  landscape  in  the 
Resurrection ;  these  grand  things,  here 
buried  In  a  napkin,  ought  to  be  better 
known  in  Europe.  The  walls  were 
painted  in  fresco  by  P.  de  Aregio  and 
Francisco  Neapoli;  but  all  was  de>- 
stroyed  in  the  barbarous  '*  improve- 
ments*' of  Archbishop  Cameros  in 
1674-82. 

Next  observe  the  painted  doors  be!> 
hind  the  altar,  especially  the  Christ 
seated;  this  grand  work  has  been 
injured  by  the  key  and  the  friction  of 
opening  and  shutting.  Here  arepre>- 
served  the  spurs  and  bridle  .of  Jaime 
the  Conqueror.  Part  x)f  the  old 
Eetahlo  exists,  and  is  put  up  in  the  Car 
pitta  de  San  Pedro.  At  the  Trans- 
altar  is  an  elegant  tomb,  with  plate- 
resque  ornaments  and  pillars :  observe 
in  the  superb  painted  windows  the 
rich  greens  of  the  centre  one,  and  the 
purples  and  scroUy  eold-work  of  the 
others.  Near  the  Puerta  del  Arzo^ 
bispo  is  the  chapel  of  San  Vicente 
Ferrer;  observe  2  fine  pictures  of 
him  and  his  model  and  master,  Saint 
Dominick.  Thence  pass  to  the  three 
Sacristias,  and  over  the  door  of  one 
is   a  grand  **  Christ  mocked  before 

it  3 


370 


V  ALEXCIA — C  ATHEDRAIi — RELICS . 


Sect.  V. 


Pilate,"  in  darkish  style ;  also  ob- 
serve on  the  other  side,  and  opposite 
the  door  of  the  sacristy,  a  **  Christ 
bearing  his  Cross/'  equal  to  Sebastian 
del  Piombo,  by  Ribalta;  also  a  "  De- 
position,'* ascribed  to  Jean  Belino,  and 
a  "  Conversion  of  St.  Paul :"  in  the 
Sacristia,  modernised  in  white  and 
gold,  is  a  "  Saviour  with  a  Lamb," 
by  Joanes ;  an  "  Abraham  and  Isaac," 
by  Espinosa ;  and  a  truly  Raphaelesque 
Holy  Family,  by  Joanes,  in  which 
St.  John  gives  the  Saviour  a  blue 
flower.  Observe  also  a  crucifix  of 
ivory  which  once  belonged  to  San 
Francisco  de  Sales,  and  the  ivory 
haculo  of  St.  Agustin,  which  is  kept 
here  in  a  case. 

The  Belicarioy  once  rich  in  relics 
and  gold  and  silver,  was  much  thinned 
in  1809  of  the  latter.  Among  Las 
ReliquiaSy  as  described  by  Villanueva 
(ii.  22),  observe  especially  a  tooth  of 
San  Cristobal,  big  as  that  of  an  ass, 
and  which  some  heretical  naturalists 
assign  to  a  Rhinoceros,  but  comparative 
anatomy  upsets  many  a  Buddha  relic. 
This  Valencian  talisman  is  here  adored 
every  July  10,  a  particular  holiday, 
inasmuch  as  the  Jewish  synagogue  at 
Valencia  was  plundered  on  that  day 
in  1391,  and  the  Hebrews  massacred, 
San  Cristobal  being  seen  on  the  house- 
tops encouraging  the  disciples  of  San 
Vicente  Ferrer.  Villanueva  gives  an 
engraving  of  this  wise  tooth,  for  the 
benefit  of  posterity,  in  case  the  original 
should  decay.  Yet  when  alive  the 
good  ferryman  must  either  have  had  a 
new  set  or  teeth  every  year,  or  a  mouth 
better  furnished  than  an  alligator's,  for 
there  was  scarcely  a  relicario  in  Spain 
which  could  not  boast  of  a  noble 
grinder.  But  the  clerigos  know  the  full 
value  of  a  good  masticator,  which  is 
more  precious  in  a  canon's  jaw,  than  the 
paarl  in  Cleopatra's  ear. 

The  glorious  custodia  of  1 452  was 
melted  during  the  war.  An  arm  of  St. 
Luke  is  kept  in  a  handsome  case,  and 
a  portrait  of  the  Virgin,  said  to  be  its 
work,  in  a  pretty  Gothic  silver  frame. 
The  emphatic  relic  is  el  santo  calixy 
the  identical  cup  used  at  the  last 
supper,  of  which  so  many  are  shown 

different  orthodox  relicarios.     This 


one  was  brought  from  the  monastery 
of  San  Joan  de  la  Pena,  but  it  was 
broken  in  1744  by  a  clumsy  canon 
named  Vicente^  Trigola.  A  solemn 
festival  and  service  was  performed  to 
this  relic  Aug.  31 ;  and  Agustin  Sales, 
in  1736,  wrote  a  volume  to  prove  its 
authenticity  and  power  of  working 
miracles.  This  santo  calixy  a  fine  bit 
of  medieeval  silver-work,  is  kept  in  a 
quaint  silver  box,  with  an  exquisitely 
chased  paten,  ornamented  with  enamel 
and  an  engraving  of  the  dead  Saviour 
in  the  Virgin's  arms.  Note  also  the 
head  of  Santo  Tomas,  which  was  taken 
every  year  in  grand  procession  to  re- 
visit his  body,  at  the  Socos,  The  fine 
crucifix  by  Alonso  Cano,  once  in  the 
Socos,  is  in  the  Sala  Capitular ;  it  is 
life  size,  and  rather  unpleasing,  from 
the  open  mouth,  but  it  is  carefully 
modelled.  This  grandiose  sala  was 
built  in  1358  by  Pedro  Compte. 
Observe  in  the  sam^  chapel  a  chain 
hung  on  the  wall,  which  is  said  to  be 
a  trophy  carried  off  from  Marseilles. 
Inquire  also  particularly  in  the  sacHs- 
tia  to  see  the  terno.,  and  complete  set 
of  three  frontales^  or  coverings  for  the 
altar,  which  were  purchased  in  Lon- 
don by  two  Valencian  merchants, 
named  Andrea  and  Pedro  de  Medina, 
at  the  sale  b;^  Henry  VIII.  of  the  Ro- 
mish decorations  of  St.  Paul's.  They 
are  embroidered  in  gold  and  silver, 
are  about  12  ft.  long  by  4,  and  repre- 
sent subjects  from  the  life  of  the  Sa- 
viour. In  one  —  Christ  in  Limbo — 
are  introduced  turrets,  evidently  taken 
from  those  of  the  Tower  of  London. 
They  are  placed  on  the  high  altar 
from  Saturday  to  Wednesday  in  the 
Holy  Week.  A  terno  is  only  used  on 
grand  fvncionesy  when  a  Misa  de  ires 
is  celebrated  by  a  Preshytero  en  casulla 
and  two  Diaconos  en  dalmattcas.  There 
is  also  a  pailo  de  pulpitOy  de  atril,  a 
frontal f  and  a  palla  to  cover  the  patena 
or  top  of  the  sacramental  cujk  En- 
quire also  for  a  missal,  said  to  have 
belonged  to  Westminster  Abbey  before 
the  Reformation. 

In  the  altar  de  San  Miguel  is  a  Vir- 
gin by  Sassoferrato,  and  above  a  fine 
Christ  holding  a  globe.  Inquire  also 
for  a  "  Virgin  '  and  superb  portrait  of 


Valeticia. 


CHAPEL  OF  THE  VIRGIN. 


371 


the  priest   Agnesio  by  Joanes;    his 
**  Baptism  of  the  Saviour,"  over  the 
font  or  pile,  is  very  fine.     Thfe  expres- 
sion of  patience  and  devotion  in  the 
Son's  face  is  very  remarkable.     In  the 
Gapilla  San  Luis  is  the  tomb  of  Arch- 
bishop Ayala,  1566 ;   the  prelate  lies 
in  his  robes :  the  fresco  paintings  are 
by  Josef  Vergara,  and  bad.    The  Ca- 
pilla    San    Sebastian    contains    several 
paintings  by  Orrente,  of  which  observe 
the  tutelar  saint,  the  masterpiece  of 
this  Valencian  fiassano.    Kibalta,  when 
told  that  he  was  going  to  paint  it, 
said,  "  Then  you  will  see  a  fine  Santo 
de  lana,"  alluding  to  his  sheepish  style. 
The  sepulchres  of  Diego  de  Covar- 
robias,  obt.  1604,  and  Maria  Diaz,  his 
wife,   are   fine.     The  Gapilla  de  San 
Pedro  was  modernized   in  1703;    the 
altar    is   churrigueresque ;    the  walls 
were  painted  by  the  feeble  Palomino, 
and  the  cupola  by  the   more  feeble 
Canon  Victoria.     Observe  the  exqui- 
site "  Christ  in  a  violet  robe  with  the 
wafer  and  chalice,"  by  Joanes.     Ob- 
serve portions  of  the  alabaster  screen, 
which  originally  formed  the  JRetablo  of 
the  high  altar ;  the  "  Christ  bearing  his 
Cross,"  by  Ribalta:  many  fine  pictures 
have  recently  "  disappeared ;"  enquire, 
however,  for  the  portrait  of  *^Bl  Beato 
Mibera,"  and  the   **  Santo  Tomas  de 
Villanueva,"   both  by   Joanes.      The 
Sala  Capitular  has  also  been  modei-n* 
ised,  in  white  and  gold,  with  pinkish 
marble   pillars.      The   Capilla  de  San 
Francisco  de  Borja  is  painted  in  fresco 
by  the  poor  Bayeu  and  Goya.     In  an 
altar  to  the  iN.  in  a  glass  case  and 
covered   with  dust  is  a  grand  £cce 
JlomOf  which  probably  is  by  Ribalta. 

Leaving  the  Puerta  de  los  Apostoles, 
is  an  incongruous  modern  brick  build- 
ing stuck  on  to  the  cathedral,  the  old 
gate  contrasting  with  an  open  circular 
white  Ionic  erection,  which,  with  its 
double  gallery,  looks  like  a  Plaza  de 
Toros ;  an  arched  passage  leads  to  the 
chapel  of  Nuestra  Seuora  de  los  Detim- 
parados,  the  Virgin  of  the  Unprotected, 
to  whom,  when  not  protected  by  allies, 
the  Blakes  and  Mahys  applied  in 
times  of  danger,  instead  of  putting 
their  own  shoulders  to  the  wheel. 
The  ancient  sanctuary  was  rebuilt  in 


1667,  on  the  site  of  a  temple  to  Escu- 
lapius,  whose  practice  has  now  passed 
to  this  Minerva  Medica :  her  benefits 
are  evinced  by  infinite  votive  ofierings. 
But  as  Diagoras  said  there  would  be 
many  more  votive  tablets,  if  all  who 
were  not  cured  offered  also  (Cic.  N.  D. 
iii.  37).     Be  that  as  it  may,  no  wonder 
that  her  image  is  placed  in  the  Valen- 
cian hospital,  el  General,  since  the  Me- 
dicos de  Valencia,  according  to  the  pro- 
verb— pace  Dr.  Battles — have  luengas 
faldas  y  poca  ciencia.     Among  the  infi- 
nite names  and  attributes  of  the  Virgin 
none  is  more  common  in  Spain  thap  tn^at 
de  los  Remedios,  The  chapel,  mipdernised 
and  beautified  in  1823,  in  the  vilest 
taste,  is  a  gaudy  oval,  enriched  with 
marble    pillars   and    gilt    Corinthian 
capitals:   the  dome  was  painted  and 
puffed  by  Palomino,  in  his  own  book 
(ii.  296).     He  inscribed  it  **  Non  est 
inventum  tale  opus  in  universis  reg- 
nis."    The  subject  is  the  **  Coronation 
of  the  Virgin  by  the  Trinity;"   the 
execution  is    below  mediocrity:    the 
Palladium  of  Valencia  itself;   the  sa.- 
gt'ada  imagen,  richly  arrayed  and  de» 
corated,    is   placed    under   ft    superb 
camarin  of  jaspers ;   it  was  carved  in 
1410,  by  order  of  the  Spanish  antipope 
Luna,  Benedict  XIII.,  who  destined  it 
for  the  chapel  of  a  lunatic  asylum : 
others  say  it  was  made  by  3  angels  in 
3  days,  a  legend  which  is  painted  in 
the  picture  here  by  Orrente.     During 
the  war  the  image  was  created  by  the 
sane  Valencians    Generalisima,  just  ab 
Teresa  of  Avila  was  appointed  Com- 
mander-in-Chief  by    the    Cortes    ,of 
Cadiz,  which  refused  to   appoint  the 
Duke  of  Wellington;  accordingly  when 
the    French    entered    Valencia,    this 
image  of  the  Virgin  vore  the  3  gold 
bars,  the  emblems  of  the  rank  of  Cap.-* 
tain-General,  and  the  Mar,ques  de  los 
Palacios,  commander  of  the  city,  took 
few  other  steps  of  defence  than  laying 
his  baton  at  its  feet.     It  was  then  carr 
ried  in  pomp  round  the  walls,   the 
whole  population  exclaiming,   **  Th^ 
divine  mother  will  protect  us.      Much 
reliance  was  also  placed  on  lighted 
candles,  as,  2  burning  before  La  Ma- 
donna •  having  escaped  a  bomb,  a  Spar 
nish  colonel  assured  tl^e  inmates  of  the 


L. 


372 


VALENCIA — HOUSES. 


Sect.  V. 


hoase  that  she  would  save  Spain 
"  because  the  number  two  signified  per- 
severance." See  for  details  Schep.  iii. 
437,  488. 

The  prelate's  palace  is  close  to  el 
Seo  :  it  once  contained  a  fine  library, 
formed  in  1762  by  Don  Andres 
Mayoral :  the  chapter  library  was  also 
very  rich  in  medals,  antiquities,  and 
liturgical  codices,  made  in  1812, 
during  Suchet's  occupation,  food  for 
bombs,  and  fuel  for  camp  kettles. 
The  shelves  have  in  some  sort  been  re- 
filled. Next  visit  the  fine  saloons  in 
the  Casa  Consistorialf  or  the  Audienciay 
a  noble  Doric  pile :  the  view  from  its 
balustrades  is  fine.  Ascending  to  the 
first  floor  and  entering  the  anteroom 
of  the  great  saloon,  observe  the  por- 
traits of  the  kings  of  Spain,  hung 
around,  below  the  cornice ;  el  Salon  de 
Cortes  is  a  noble  room,  and  has  its 
walls  painted  in  curious  old  frescoes 
by  Cristobal  Zarinena,  1592,  but  since 
vilely  gone  over  with  oil,  representing 
the  difierent  members,  and  seemingly 
over  the  places  which  the  originals 
occupied ;  above  is  a  charming  carved 
gallery,  then  a  balustrade,  pillars,  cor- 
nice, and  rich  panelled  ceiling,  rare 
treats  for  the  architectural  eye.  In  a 
chest  are  kept  the  sword  of  the  con- 
queror Jaime,  and  the  Moorish  keys 
of  the  town  surrendered  to  him ;  in  the 
library  is  a  curious  MS.  relating  to  the 
city's  commerce  in  the  1 5th  centy.  The 
chapel  of  the  Virgin  and  3  adjoining 
courts  contain  nothing  remarkable. 
Below,  the  Secretaria  del  Gobierno  has 
also  a  fine  gilt  and  carved  ceiling. 

The  Calle  de  Cuballeros  is,  as  its 
name  implies,  the  aristocratic  street. 
The  character  of  these  Valencian 
houses  is  anything  but  unsubstantial, 
ab  they  have  an  air  of  solid  nobility : 
a  large  portal  opens  into  a  patio,  with 
arched  colonnades,  which  are  fre- 
quently elliptical  ;  the  staircases  are 
remarkable  for  their  rich  banisters, 
and  the  windows  are  either  Gothic  or 
formed  in  the  ajimez  style,  with  a 
slender  single  shaft  dividing  the  aper- 
ture :  the  long  lines  of  open  arcades 
under  the  roofs  give  an  Italian  light- 
ness in  these  modernising  days.  When- 
ever a  house  is  now  taken  down  it  is 


obliged  to  be  set  back,  with  a  view  of 
widening  the  streets ;  the  rebuilt  man- 
sions are  uniform  and  commonplace, 
with  rows  of  balconies.  Of  the  most 
remarkable  houses  observe  the  fine 
specimen  **  la  Gasa  de  Salicofras"  with 
noble  patio  and  marble  colonnade. 
The  upper  corridor  is  charming,  with 
slender  ajimez  pillars.  Observe  the 
portals  and  doorways.  It,  in  latter 
times,  has  been  degraded  into  a  printing 
concern  and  a  chocolate-shop  I  Another 
good  house  is  in  the  Calle  Cadirers :  ob- 
serve that  of  the  Marques  de  dos  Aguas^ 
Plaza  de  Villaraza,  which  has  a  gro- 
tesque portal,  a  fricasee  of  palm-trees, 
Indians,  serpents,  and  absurd  forms,  the 
design  of  one  Rovira  and  the  work  of 
Vergara.  In  the  house  of  the  Conde 
de  Cervelion,  near  the  Puerta  del  Mar^ 
Ferdinand  VII.  was  lodged  on  his  re- 
turn from  France.  The  house-fancier 
may  visit  that  of  Pinohermoso,  C.  del 
Gobemador  Viejo^  and  of  Baron  Llauri,  . 
with  its  fine  Genoese  marbles:  from 
the  balcony  of  Tio  Florido*s  house  the 
patriot  Riego  harangued  the  mob. 

The  vast  mansion  of  the  Conde  de 
Parsent,  Calle  de  Camiceros,  contains 
some  good  pictures :  observe  the  Ado- 
ration of  Shepherds,  a  St.  Catherine, 
Christ  breaking  the  Bread  at  Emmaus, 
by  Ribalta.  The  Marqiies  del  Rdfol 
has  also  a  collection  :  observe  the  &in 
Pedro  Pascual,  a  head  of  Christ,  Mo- 
rales, 2  Dominican  Monks  plucking 
Flowers,  a  Crucifixion,  San  Bernardo, 
Isaac  and  Abraham,  all  by  Ribalta; 
also  his  portrait  by  himself;  a  fine  . 
San  Sebastian,  by  Ribera ;  San  Vicente 
preaching,  Joanes.  The  celebrated 
aesthetic  hairdresser.  El  Peluquero  Pedro 
Perez,  whose  house  was  crammed 
with  an  omnium  gatherum  of  art, 
where  all  the  geese  were  swans,  died 
ill  1848,  leaving  his  treasures  to  his 
old  maid.  The  Spanish  and  Celtibe* 
rian  coins  were  good  until  the  perru- 
quier  polished  off  the  venerable  aerugo, 
lathering  and  shaving  them  as  it  were, 
a  common  fate  in  Spain.  This  numis- 
matic Figaro  was,  after  all,  himself,  like 
old  Tradescant,  the  most  curious  of  his 
rarities.  This  Figaro  of  taste,  %hen  he 
laid  aside  his  razors^  was  appointed 
"  Conserge  **  to  the  Academy  of  Nobles 


Valencia, 


COLEGIO  DE  CORPUS. 


373 


Artes  of  San  Carlos,  Plaza  de  las 
Barcasy  where  are  some  second-rate 
objects  of  art,  and  bad  pictures  with 
good  names,  a  Transfiguration  by  Ri- 
balta,  a  San  Sebastian  by  Ribera,  and 
some  portraits  of  poets  from  the  mo- 
nastery Murta.  A  barber,  however,  is 
a  personage  in  this  land  of  Figaro. 
Suchet,  too,  who  shaved  Valencia 
pretty  well,  began  life  as  'prentice  to  a 
perruquier.  lu  the  Calle  San  Vicente 
lives  a  hatter,  el  Sormbrerero,  who  has 
also  some  Barberic  pictures,  which  he 
shows  readily  to  strangers ;  they  are  but 
second-class.  Ditto  aSenor i)e la  Cuadra. 
The  Colegio  de  Corpus  or  del  Patri- 
arca  is  a  museum  of  Ribaltas.  It  was 
founded  in  1586,  and  finished  in  1GG5 
by  the  Archbishop  Juan  Ribera,  a 
scion  of  that  powerful  family  of  Se- 
ville. He  is  generally  called  "  El 
Santo  Ribera**  having  been  canonized 
in  1797:  he  died  in  1611,  aged  78, 
having  been  primate  of  Valencia  42 
years:  see  the  engraved  stone  in  the 
middle  of  the  transept.  He  was  a 
ferocious  persecutor  of  the  Moriscos; 
one  of  his  pulpit  diatribes  is  printed  by 
Dr.  Geddes  in  his  Tracts  (i.  166,  3rd 
edit.,  Lond.,  1730).  His  life  has  been 
written  by  Francisco  Escriba,  4to., 
Valencia,  1612,  and  by  Juan  Ximenez, 
fol.,  Roma,  1734.  The  noble  Corinth- 
ian chapel  of  the  college  was  built  by 
Anton  del  Rey,  after,  it  is  said,  a  plan 
of  Herrera.  It  is  somewhat  dark,  the 
windows  being  very  small ;  the  walls 
again,  like  in  the  temples  of  Babylon 
(Baruch  vi.  21),  are  "  blacked  through 
the  smoke  **  of  the  "  incense  offered  to 
the  queen  of  Heaven  "  (Isa.  xliv.  25), 
nigra  fcedo  simulacra  fumo ;  moreover 
the  daylight  was  purposely  excluded 
by  desire  of  the  founder,  who  wished 
to  give  the  impressiveness  of  religious 
obscure  to  the  ceremonies,  which  show 
the  best  in  their  own  dim  shadow. 
The  miserere  on  a  Friday  morning 
is,  or  was  in  our  time,  one  of  the 
most  impressive  services  of  Spain :  be 
there  at  10,  as  soon  after  the  dark- 
ling chapel  is  rendered  darker  by 
drawing  blinds  over  the  windows  and 
shutting  the  doors,  to  exclude  also  the 
idle  triffer:  the  whole  space  above 
the  high  altar  is  now  covered  with  a 


purple  pall,  the  colour  of  mourning; 
none  stand  near  it  save  the  silent  qui- 
risters ;  next  an  aged  priest  approaches 
and  prostrates  himself;  then  all  kneel 
on  the  ground  and  the  solemn  chant 
begins.  At  the  first  verse  the  picture 
above  the  altar  descends  by  a  noiseless 
unseen  machinery,  and  the  vacancy  is 
supplied  by  a  lilac  veil  with  yellow 
stripes;  as  the  chant  proceeds  this  is 
withdrawn,  and  discloses  one  of  a 
faint  grey,  which,  when  removed,  dis- 
covers another  of  deep  black,  and  then 
after  a  lengthened  pause  another  and 
the  last.  The  imagination  is  thus 
worked  up  into  a  breathless  curiosity, 
which  is  heightened  by  the  tender 
feeling  breathed  out  in  that  most 
beautiful  of  penitential  psalms.  Then 
at  once  the  last  veil  of  the  temple  is 
as  it  were  rent  asunder,  and  the  Sa- 
viour appears  dying  on  the  cross ;  a 
sepulchral  light  is  cast  on  the  brow,  on 
which  a  sweat  of  agony  seems  to 
mantle,  while  "  the  shadow  of  death 
hangs  on  the  eyelid"  (Job  xvi. 
16).  This  melodramatic  representation, 
which  realises,  as  it  were,  the  Cruci- 
fixion, was  too  harrowing  to  be  long 
looked  at;  but  soon  a  distant  quire 
of  silvery  voices  struck  up,  and  the 
pall  closed  over  the  spectacle :  one  not 
to  be  profaned  by  irreverent  or  length- 
ened curiosity. 

The  scholat  will  compare  these  many 
curtains,  these  "  hangings'*  (2  Kings 
xxiii.  7),  and  their  gradual  with- 
drawal, with  those  described  by  Apu- 
leius  (Met.  xi.  252),  "  Velis  reductis 
in  diversum ;"  and  still  closer  by 
TertuUian,  in  his  first  chapter  ad  Va- 
lentinianos  1  where  the  phallic  idol  was 
revealed:  "  nihil  magis  curant  quam 
occultare,  quod  praedicunt— tantam 
majestatem  exhibere  videatur  quantam 
prsestruxerunt  cupiditatem ;  sequitur 
jam  silentii  officium,  attent^  custoditur 
quod  tard^  invenitur ;  caeterum  tota  in 
ady tis  divinitas,  tota  suspiria  epoptarum, 
totum  signaculum  revelatur.'*  Some 
have  read  instead  of  the  **  sighs  of  the 
admitted  eye-witnesses,"  tot  siparia 
portarum,  **  so  many  curtains  of  doors ;" 
but  either  reading  is  equally  applicable 
to  what  takes  place  on  this  occasion  at 
Valencia. 


374 


VALENCIA — RIBALTA, 


Sect.  V. 


The  sculptor  should  examine  this 
crucifix  as  a  work  of  art ;  and  by  ap- 
plication to  the  rector,  and  a  fee  to  the 
sacnstarif  it  can  be  seen  in  the  after- 
noon, when  the  chapel  is  closed  to  the 
public;  get  a  ladder  and  lights,  and 
then  will  be  revealed  the  ropes  and 
contrivances  by  which  all  this  solemn 
scene-shifting  is  managed.  The  carv- 
ing is  one  of  the  finest  in  Spain,  but 
nothing  is  known  of  its  origin.  It  be- 
longed to  the  founder,  and  was  placed 
here  by  his  express  order,  as  a  relic, 
from  the  number  of  miracles  which  it 
worked.  To  us  it  appeared  to  be  Flo- 
rentine, and  of  the  time  of  Jaen  de 
Bologna.  The  material  is  a  dark 
wood;  the  feet,  extremities,  and  ana- 
tomy are  very  fine :  observe  the  broad 
modelling  of  the  forehead,  and  the 
lines  about  the  mouth,  where  character 
resides;  as  death  is  here  represented, 
the  absence  of  life,  which  is  so  felt  in 
painted  sculpture,  does  not  offend. 

The  whole  church  deserves  a  care- 
ful inspection,  as  here  Ribalta  is  pro- 
perly to  be  estimated  :  in  the  first 
chapel  to  the  1.  is  one  of  hi^  mas- 
terpieces, and  painted  in  a  style  be- 
tween Titian  and  Vandyke  ;  "  San 
Vicente  de  Ferrer  visited  on  his  sick 
bed  by  our  Saviour  and  Saints;'*  he 
rises  on  his  pallet,  his  expression  of 
humble  gratitude  contrasts  with  the 
kindness  and  sympathy  exhibited  to- 
wards him ;  the  light  is  unfortunately 
bad.  Next  pass  to  the  high  altar, 
which  is  a  superb  pile  of  green  mar- 
bles and  jaspers;  the  crucifix  is  con- 
cealed by  a  grand  "  Last  Supper  "  by 
Ribalta ';  the  head  of  an  Apostle  with 
a  white  beard  is  equal  to  anything 
painted  by  the  old  Venetians ;  the 
Judas  in  the  foreground  is  said  to  be 
the  portrait  of  a  shoemaker  by  whom 
Ribalta  was  worried;  above  the  Sup- 
per is  a  charming  "  Holy  Family," 
also  by  Ribalta ;  the  child  is  painted 
like  Titian :  in  the  small  recesses  on 
each  side  of  the  altar  are  2  fine  pic- 
tures on  panel  in  the  style  of  Juanes ; 
in  that  to  the  rt.  our  Saviour  is  at  the 
column,  in  that  to  the  1.  he  bears  his 
cross.  The  cupola  is  painted  in  fresco^ 
with  martyrdoms  and  miracles  of  San 

icente,  and  holy  subjects,  by  Barto- 


lome  Mafarana  (Kill  Frog).  The  pic- 
ture in  the  Capilla  de  las  Animas  is  by 
F.  Zuccaro.  The  body  of  the  founder 
is  preserved  in  a  sarcophagus,  and  lies 
clad  in  episcopal  robes,  with  a  crozier 
between  the  legs ;  the  gold  and  silver 
ornaments  were  stripped  off  by  Suchet's 
troops :  the  features  are  pinched  and 
wasted ;  the  gorgeous  copes  and  trap- 
pings mock  the  mouldering  mummy: 
in  the  Capilla  de  San  Mauro  is  another 
of  these  melancholy  relics. 

The  Sacristia  is  fine,  and  was  built 
by  Geronimo  Yavari.  The  wardrobes 
with  Doric  ornaments  are  good ;  in  an 
inner  room  is  the  Meliquario  ;  the  bones, 
&c.,  are  arranged  in  rows  like  an  ana- 
tomical museum ;  the  invaders  "  re- 
moved" the  gold  and  silver  settings. 
The  spectator  kneels  while  the  show- 
man points  to  each,  and  an  assistant 
drawls  out  the  items  as  by  rote.  This 
exhibition  usually  takes  place  imme- 
diately after  the  Friday  miserere,  and 
destroys  all  devotional  sentiment ;  it 
is  a  farce  after  the  tragedy.  Observe, 
however,  a  small  altar  painted  by 
Joanes,  and  the  picture  of  a  dead  pre- 
late with  Satan  and  an  angel  contend- 
ing for  his  soul,  which  belqnged  to  El 
Santo  Bibera,  and  was  always  kept  in 
his  room  as  a  memento  mori.  Notice 
also  an  ivory  and  a  bronze  crucifix  of 
Florentine  work.  The  Sala  Capitular 
contains  a  few  pictures,  but  the  light 
is  very  bad.  The  fine  Doric  and  Ionic 
cloisters,  with  an  Italian  marble  co- 
lonnade, were  erected  in  the  Herrera 
style  by  Guillem  del  Rey ;  Suchet 
converted  them  into  his  magazine  or 
receiving-house.  Observe  an  antique 
Ceres,  which  has  been  bunglingly  re- 
paired. Here  are  4  pictures  by  Joannes 
Stradanus  —  The  Ascension,  Birth, 
Supper,  and  St.  John:  they  are  kept 
covered,  except  on  el  dia  de  Corpus. 
Next  ascend  by  a  noble  staircase  to 
the  library :  over  the  door  is  a  statue 
of  Hercules.  Those  books  which  es- 
caped the  modem  Omars  are  put  away 
in  handsome  Ionic  cases,  for  the  ban- 
quet of  worms.  Here  are  some  portraits 
of  Spanish  kings,  &c.  The  rectoral 
lodgings  are  also  up-stairs,  and  contain 
fine  pictures :  inquire  for  a  portrait  of 
Clement  VIII.,  and   for  that  of  the 


Valencia. 


UNIVERSITY — PAINTERS. 


375 


founder,  an  intelligent  old  man  with 
long  pointed  nose  and  square  beard ;  it 
is  by  Juan  Zerineiia :  also  for  a  Christ 
in  the  Garden  of  Olives,  by  Ribalta ; 
and  by  the  same  master  a  superb  Christ 
at  the  Column,  painted  in  the  style  of 
Sebastian  del  Piombo :  observe  also  a 
Christ  bearing  the  Cross  by  Morales, 
and  a  noble  picture  of  a  Beata  in  a 
brown  dress  by  Ribalta;  the  best  time 
to  see  these  interesting  objects  is  of  an 
afternoon,  but  ladies  are  not  admitted. 
Thus  the  ungallant  priests  of  the 
temple  of  Hercules  at  Cadiz  warned  off 
female  trespassers,  coupling  them,  qrie 
cochinos  I  with  swine.     Sil.  Ital.  iii.  22. 

Near  this  Colegio  is  the  Universifiad, 
a  fine,  large,  red  bailding,  and  much 
frequented  by  students:  the  library 
is  well  arranged;  that  founded  by 
Bayer  in  1785,  was  burnt  by  the 
French  in  1812,  but  has  been  re- 
placed since  from  the  suppressed  con- 
vents, and  now  contains  some  40,000 
volumes.  Among  them  a  copy  of  the 
rare  Tirante  Lo  Blanc,  of  which  the 
finest  known  is  in  the  Grenville  library 
of  the  British  Museum,  and  another 
in  the  Sapienza  at  Rome ;  it  also  pos- 
sesses  some  rare  bibles,  books  of  chi- 
valry, and  Spanish  cinque-centos ,  and 
some  vellum  MSS.,  e.  g.  a  Virgil, 
Pliny,  Livy,  and  Aristotle,  with  ex- 
cellent illuminations,  which  formerly 
belonged  to  the  Convento  de  los  Beyes, 
and  escaped  Suchet*s  firebrands  by 
having  been  sent  to  Mayorca  before 
his  arrival.  Suchet,  uneducated,  igno* 
rant,  and  tasteless,  only  "collected" 
cash ;  in  matters  of  art-plunder,  he 
was  to  Soult  what  Mummius  of  old 
was  to  Verres.  No  bibliophile  should 
fail  visiting  the  library  of  Don  Vicente 
Salva,  which  is  eminently  rich  in  curi- 
ous, and  exclusively  Spanish  books,  the 
earliest  and  rarest. 

Formerly  travellers  who  wished  to 
scourge  themselves  (see  San  Gines, 
Madrid),  found  whips  and  every  ac- 
commodation, after  ias  Oraciones,  in 
the  church  of  La  Congregacion ;  now 
this  is  converted  into  a  college  for 
officers,  to  whom  the  mention  of  these 
previous  practices  is  unpleasant.  That 
fine  church,  built  in  1736,  by  one 
ToBca,  has  been  giyen  to  the  clergy 


of  Santo  Tomas,  and  has  some  toler- 
able pictures ;  but  that  of  the  Virgin  is 
not  by  Leonardo,  as  is  here  pretended. 

Since  the  suppression  of  the  con- 
vents a  provincial  museum  has  been 
established  in  the  former  convent  del 
Carmeny  where  the  great  Valencian 
school  may  really  be  studied  and  ap- 
preciated :  it  contains  600  or  700  pic- 
tures, of  which  the  vast  majority  are 
worthless.  The  best  are  placed  in  a 
Sala  by  themselves.  The  chief  painters 
to  be  observed  are  Vicente  Joanes,  the 
Spanish  Raphael,  and  head  of  the  Va- 
lentian  school ;  he  was  born  at  Fuente 
la  Higuera,  1523  ob.  1597;  he  wad 
buried  in  the  Santa  Cruz,  but  his  ashes 
were  moved  to  this  Cai^men  in  1 842 ; 
then  Francisco  de  Ribalta,  who  is  the 
Spanish  Domenichino  and  Sebastian 
del  Piombo  combined:  he  was  bom  in 
Castellon  de  la  Plana  about  1551,  died 
at  Valencia,  1628,  and  is  buried  in  the 
San  Juan  del  Mercado :  he  was  the 
painter  of  San  Vicente  de  Ferrer,  i.  e. 
a  local  painter  of  a  local  subject ;  just 
as  Munllo  was  of  the  Concepcion,  so 
worshiped  by  Sevillians.  There  is  a 
picture,  probably  by  Ribalta,  in  Mag- 
dalen Chapel,  Oxford,  although  even 
his  name  has  not  penetrated  into  those 
cloisters,  and  the  picture  is  ascribed  to 
artists  with  whose  works  it  has  not 
even  a  remote  resemblance. 

Another  great  Valencian,  Josef  Ri- 
bera  (Spagnoletto),  was  pupil  of  Ri- 
balta: he  was  bom  at  Xativa,  1588, 
and  died  at  Naples,  1656,  where  he  led 
the  Hispano-Neapolitan  school.  He 
painted  cruel  martyr  subjects  in  a 
decided  Caravaggio  style  of  marked 
shadows  and  lights  (see  p.  359).  Jacinto 
Geronimo  Espinosa,the  best  of  a  family 
of  painters,  was  bom  in  Cocentaina, 
1 600,  and  was  also  a  disciple  of  Ribalta : 
he  died  at  Valencia,  1680,  and  is  buried 
in  San  Martin:  he  imitated  the  Car- 
racci  school.  Pedro  Orrente,  the  Bas- 
sano  of  Spain,  and  as  monotonous  and 
multiplied,  was  born  at  Monte  Alegre 
about  1560,  and  died  at  Toledo,  1644 : 
he  principally  painted  cattle  and  Ador- 
ations of  Shepherds :  although  he  was 
a  mannerist,  he  coloured  his  low  sub- 
jects well ;  he  was  the  master  of  Pablo 
Pontons,  whose  pictures  are  seldor^ 


37G 


VALENCIA — PAINTINGS. 


Sect.  V. 


seen  out  of  Valencia,  and  of  Esteban 
March,  a  painter  of  battle-pieces,  who 
died  here  in  1660 ;  both  these  imitated 
the  Bassanos  through  Orrente.  These 
pastoral  pictures  are  as  tiresome  as 
pastoral  poetry,  which  then  was  all  the 
fashion :  Scripture  was  degraded  by 
peasant  forms;  angels  became  acces*> 
sories  to  cattle;  there  may  be  the 
merit  of  truth  to  ordinary  nature,  but 
divine  subjects  require  a  more  epic 
treatment.  The  Zarinenas  are  another 
Valencian  family  of  painters  of  se- 
cond-rate merit.  Valencia  has  pro- 
duced no  great  sculptor. 

Among  the  best  pictures  by  Joanes 
are  3  of  our  Saviour,  Nos.  239,  244, 
246 ;  observe  especially  that  from 
Santo  Dominjo,  in  a  violet  dress :  a 
magniticent  San  Francisco  de  Paula, 
in  a  brown  dress  leaning  on  his  stafi^ 
from  Los  MinimoSf  and  236  an  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin.  Remark,  by  Bi- 
baltoy  2  of  the  Virgins,  412,  69 ;  and 
San  Vicente  preaching,  from  Santo 
Domingo  ;  San  Francisco,  from  Los 
Capuchinos;  a  Cardinal,  by  Espinosa; 
a  Holy  Family ;  a  St.  Jerome ;  an  As- 
sumption, from  Santo  Domingo  ;  a  San 
Jose,  from  Los  Agostinos :  by  El  Bosco 
(Jerome  Bosch  of  Bois  le  Due),  whose 
grotesque  hobgoblin  pictures,  St. 
Anthonys,  &c.,  were  once  popular  in 
Spain ;  the  3  singular  pictures  from 
S-mto  Domingo  —  the  Crowning  with 
Thorns,  the  Christ'  at  the  Pillar,  and 
in  the  Garden:  inquire  for  the  altar 
of  Jaime  I.,  with  its  singular  old  paint- 
ings. There  is  a  clever  picture,  a 
Procession  in  honour  of  the  Virgin,  by 
Orrente.  El  Beato  Nicolas  Factor  was 
born  in  1520,  in  the  Calle  del  Mar, 
Manzana  4,  at  Santa  Teclas,  where  is 
the  jasper-adorned  Grotto  in  which  San 
Vicente  was  martyrised,  and  marked 
by  an  Italian  statue.  The  blessed 
Nicolas  is  buried  in  the  extramural 
convent  Sa.  Maria  de  JesuSy  outside  the 
Puerta  de  San  Vicente,  and  now  a  silk 
manufactory.  He  lies  in  the  chapel, 
and  is  painted  over  the  altar,  in  the 
air  and  in  extacy;  the  picture  when 
slipped  aside  reveals  his  well-tanned 
body  in  a  black  and  gold  cherub-sup- 
ported sarcophagus.  Consult  Stirling's 
'Excellent  Annals  of  Spanish  Artists. 


Visit  the  church  of  San  Juan  to  see 
the  celebrated  Concepcion,  or  La  Pu- 
risima,  which  formerly  was  in  the 
Compaaiay  having  been  painted  for  l^js 
JesiiitaSy  and  under  the  following  cir- 
cumstances:— the  Virgin  herself  ap- 
peared in  person  to  the  Jesuit  Martin 
de  Alvaro,  and  desired  him  to  have 
her  painted  exactly  as  he  then  beheld 
her.  He  applied  to  Joanes,  giving  all 
the  details  of  the  vision ;  the  artist, 
after  many  failures,  by  the  advice  of 
Alvaro,  confessed  and  went  through  a 
long  religious  exercise,  and  then  pro- 
duced this  picture ;  the  Virgin  when 
it  was  finished  descended  from  heaven 
and  expressed  herself  satisfied  (see  Pa- 
lomino, ii.  395).  Charles  IV.  wished 
to  remove  it  to  Madrid  when  he  founded 
her  order,  but  refrained  from  fears  of 
a  popular  outbreak.  The  figure  is 
colossal,  but  the  expression  is  meek 
and  innocent:  on  each  side  are  em- 
blems and  mottoes  allusive  to  her 
manifold  perfections.  Here  also  is  a 
Saviour  holding  the  wafer,  by  Joannes. 

Visit  the  church  of  San  Martin; 
over  the  door  is  a  bronze  equestrian 
statue  of  the  tutelar  dividing  his  cloak ; 
it  weighs  4000  lbs.,  and  the  horse  is 
heavier.  In  the  interior  is  a  grand 
Dead  Christ,  lamented  by  the  Marys, 
by  Ribalta,  and  a  Crucifixion  over  a 
Jietablo,  Visit  by  all  means  the  San 
NicolaSy  originally  a  Moorish  mosque, 
the  frescoes  are  by  Dionis  Vidal,  a 
pupil  of  Palomino.  The  church  is  dis- 
figured by  stucco  abortions.  Calix- 
tus  III.  was  curate  here,  and  his  me- 
dallion is  placed  over  the  principal 
entrance.  Observe  especially  the  paint- 
ings by  Joanes  over  both  the  altars,  to 
the  rt.  and  1.  of  the  Altar  mayor.  On 
the  1.  is  a  cenacolo^  kept  under  a  case, 
which  is  considered  by  Cean  Bermudez 
to  be  his  masterpiece.  Notice  also  8 
smaller  pictures  of  mocH  beauty,  and, 
above  all,  those  connected  with  the 
Creation.  The  paintings  on  the  rt  hand 
altar  are  inferior,  and  were  probably 
finished  by  the  scholars  of  Joanes. 
On  an  altar  in  the  side  aisle  are  other 
pictures  by  this  master,  some  fine ;  and 
in  the  Sacristia  2  heads  of  Christ  and 
the  Virgin,  painted  on  a  round  panel,  in 
his  best  style. 


Valencia, 


EL  MERCADO — PLAZAS. 


377 


The  Escuela  Pia,  a  tolerable  semi- 
nary, was  built  in  1738  by  the  Arch- 
bishop Mayoral :  the  rotunda  is  very 
noble,  but  has  been  injured  by  light- 
ning. The  green  marbles  of  Cer- 
Tera  used  here  are  rich:  observe  the 
San  Antonio,  a  fine  picture  by  Ri- 
balta,  painted  something  like  Guer- 
cino.  The  saint  in  black  holds  the 
child  in  his  arms,  while  an  angelic 
quire  hovers  above. 

The  Puerta  del  Cid,  by  which  the 
Champion  entered,  and  now  in  the 
town  near  the  gate  el  Real,  is  built 
into  the  Temple,  where  was  the  tower 
called  Alihufat^  on  which  the  Cross 
was  first  hoisted.  This  church  once 
belonged  to  the  Templars,  and  was 
given  to  the  oixier  of  Montesain  1317 : 
ruined  by  an  earthquake  in  1748, 
it  was  rebuilt  in  1764  by  Miguel  Fer- 
nandez. The  portico  is  fine :  observe 
the  circular  altar,  with  choice  jaspars 
and  gilt  capitals,  under  which  is  the 
Virgin's  image,  and  the  doors  leading 
to  the  Presbitero  ;^  in  this  edifice  the 
Liceo  artistico  hold  their  meetings. 
Suchet  plundered  the  Temple  of  much 
plate,  and  turngi  it  into  a  custom- 
house. The  numerous  convents  of 
Valencia,  like  most  of  the  churches, 
were  tawdry  in  decoration,  for  in  no 
place  has  churriguerism  and  stucco 
done  more  mischief,  while  whole  Cuenca 
pine-forests  were  carpentered  into  de- 
formity and  plastered  with  gilding. 

The  principal  plaza,  called  £1  Mer- 
cxdoy  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and 
was  the  site  of  tournaments  and  exe- 
cutions, where    the    Cid  and  Suchet 
put  prisonei-s  to  death  without  trial  or 
mercy.     The  market-place  is  well  sup- 
plied, and  the  costume  of  the  peasants 
is  very  picturesque.    Here  is  the  Lonja 
de  Seda,  the  silk-hall,  a  beautiful  Gothic 
building  of  1482.    The  saloon  is  mag- 
nificent,   and   supported    by    spirally 
fluted  pillars :  this  is  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce ;  observe  in  a  pretty  garden 
attached  to  it,  the  beautiful   Gothic 
windows,  medallions  with  heads,  and 
coronet-like  battlements.     The  stair- 
case of  the  Lonja  is  good.  The  window- 
ornaments  and    armorial    decorations 
were  mutilated  by  the  invaders.    Op- 
posite to  the  Lonja  is  the  church  of  the 
Santos  Juanes,  which  also    has  been 


disfigured  with  heavy  overdone  orna- 
ments in  stucco  and  churrigueresque. 
The  much-admired  cupola  is  painted 
in  fresco  b^  Palomino,  and,  altht)ugh 
puffed  in  his  own  book  (ii.  290),  is  a 
poor  performance;  San  Vicente  figures 
like  the  angel  of  the  Apocalypse.  The 
PetablOf  by  Munoz,  is  bad ;  the  marble 
pulpit  was  wrought  at  Genoa,  by  one 
Ponzanelli. 

The  Plaza  de  Santa  Catalina  is  the 
mart  of  gossip,  and  the  fair  sex  re- 
turning from   mass  make  a  point  of 
passing  through  it  to  see  and  to  be 
seen.      The    hexagon    tower   of  the 
church,  built  in  1688,  is  disfigured  by 
windows  and  rococo  pillars  and  orna- 
ments.   The  Gothic  interior  has  been 
ruined  by  stucco.      It  was  made   a 
straw  magazine  by  Suchet,  who  tore 
down  and  destroyed  the  glorious  altar 
de  los  Plateros,  painted  by  Ribalta :  the 
adjoining  Plaza  de  las  Barcas  is  nothing 
more  than  a  wide  street.    Close  by  is 
the  ColegiOy  founded  in  1550  by  Santo 
Tomas  de  Villanueva,  archbishop  of 
Valencia,   with  its    quaint   irregular 
Patio,     In   the   Ciiarto  i^ectoral  is  the 
grand  picture,  by  Ribalta,  of  this  pre- 
late  surrounded    by    scholars.     The 
Santo  was  buried  in  San  Agustin  {El 
Soc6s\  in  a  noble  sepulchre.  This  build- 
ing serves  now  for  the  presidio  correc- 
Clonal,    a    reformatory    philanthropic 
penitentiary— not  a  thing  of  Spain — 
which  was  founded  by  the  patient  and 
energetic  Don  Manuel  Montesinos :  it 
is  clean  and  well  managed.    The  pri- 
soners are  employed  at  different  works, 
and  the  silent  system  observed.    See 
the  account  of  the  Sistema,  by  Vicente 
Boix,  1850. 

The  N.E.  comer,  between  the  gates 
el  Peal  and  del  Mar,  is  full  of  interest. 
On  the  Plaza  de  la  Aduana  is  a  huge 
red  brick  Doric  pile,  with  vile  statues 
by  Vergara,  built  for  Charles  III.  by 
Felipe  Pubio,  in  1760,  as  a  custom- 
house :  but  it  was  soon,  under  the  com- 
merce-strangling system,  like  that  of 
Malaga,  converted  into  a  manufactory 
of  cigars.  The  charming  Paseo  de  la 
Glorieta,  so  frequented  by  the  fair  sex, 
was  laid  out  and  planted  in  1817  by 
Elio,  who  converted  into  a  garden  of 
Hesperus  a  locality  made  a  desert  by 
Suchet,  who  razed  300  houses  to  clear  a 


378 


VALENCIA — SAN  VICENTE  DE  FERRER. 


Sect.  V. 


flacis  for  the  adjoining  citadel.  When 
«lio  was  massacred  in  1820  by  the  Con- 
stitutionalists, because  a  royalist,  they 
selected  this  very  garden  for  his  place  of 
execution,  and  the  Valencians  wished 
to  tear  up  even  the  trees  and  flowers, 
because  planted  by  a  royalist  hand 
(compare  San  Lucar  and  Granada, 
pp.  154,317). 

When  Ferdinand  VII.  was  restored 
to  his  full  power  in  1823,  Elio,  although 
dead  and  buried,  was  restored  to  his 
rank  and  honours,  and  his  name 
figured  for  years  afterwards  among  the 
generals  in  the  Spanish  army-list "  un- 
attached." This  deceased,  made  im- 
mortal by  a  decree,  was  probably  far 
from  being  the  worst  of  his  brother 
generals.  Death  has  long  been  defied 
by  the  powers  in  Spain;  the  Inquisi- 
tion perpetuated  infamy,  and  the  abso- 
lute king  guaranteed  honour,  beyond 
the  grave. 

The  citadel  was  built  by  Charles  V. 
to  defend  Valencia  against  Barbarossa. 
The  Glorieta,  with  its  statuettes  in  the 
box  circles,  is  a  delicious  promenade, 
and  frequented  by  the  fashion  and 
beauty  of  the  town ;  of  course  the  tra- 
veller will  go  there  at  the  proper  hour 
in  the  cool  evenings.  But  medical  men 
have  observed  since  its  opening  an 
increase  of  consumptive  disorders, 
arising  from  night  exposure  .after  the 
perspirations  of  the  hot  day.  On 
the  N.  side  is  the  Flaza  de  Santo 
DomiThgo.  The  convent  was  founded 
by  Jaime  I.,  who  laid  the  first  stone ; 
it  was  once  a  museum  of  art  of  all 
kind,  until  desolated  by  Suchet,  who 
bombarded  Valencia  from  this  side. 
It  is  now  occupied  by  the  captain- 
general;  the  church  and  chapels  are 
converted  into  store-rooms  for  artillery 
and  ammunition,  and  the  pictures  re- 
moved to  the  Museo;  once  the  lion 
of  Valencia,  it  still  deserves  a  visit. 
Observe  the  Doric  portal  and  statues. 
The  chapter- house  and  cloisters  are  in 
excellent  Gothic;  the  latter,  planted 
with  orange-trees  and  surrounded  with 
small  chapels,  was  the  burial-place  of 
the  Escala  family,  whose  sepulchre 
was  most  remarkable  on  account  of 
the  costume  of  2  armed  knights.  In 
the  Capilla  del  Capitulo,  which  is  sup- 
rted  by  4  airy  pillars,  San  Vicente 


Ferrer  took  the  cowl.  His  chapel  by 
Antonio  Gilabert  is  a  pile  of  precious 
green  and  red  marbles,  jaspars,  and 
agates.  The  chapel  of  San  Luis  Bel- 
tran,  where  his  uncorrupted  body  was 
kept,  was  adorned  with  pillars  of  a 
remarkable  green  marble ;  here  were 
the  beautiful  tombs  of  the  monks  Juan 
Mico  and  Domingo  Anadon.  The 
chapel  of  the  Virgen  del  Rosario  was  all 
that  gold  and  decoration  could  make 
it,  and  contrasted  with  the  severe 
sombre  Gothic  of  the  Capilla  de  los 
Reyes f  founded  by  Alonso  V.  of  Arra- 
gon,  and  now  the  Panteon  Provincial. 
Here  are  the  Bemiguete  sepulchres  of 
Rodrigo  Mendoza,  obt.  1554,  and  Maria 
Fonseca  his  wife.  The  superb  railings 
were  torn  down  by  Suchet's  troops, 
who  also  burnt  the  noble  library. 

San  Vicente  is  the  tutelar  of  Valencia, 
and  none  can  understand  Ribalta  with- 
out some  knowledge  of   his  history, 
which  has  given  much  employment  to 
the  pencils,  chisels,  and  pens  of  Spa- 
niards.   Consult  his  Life  by  Vicente 
Justiniani,Val.  1 582,  and  his  *  Milagros* 
Francisco  Diago,  4to.  Barcelona,  1600 ; 
ditto,  Juan  Gabaston*  4to.  Val.  1614  ; 
*  Historia  de  la  Vida  Maravillosa,  Val- 
decebro,  4to.  Mad.  1 740  ;  *  Vida^  Miia- 
grosy    &c.,  Thomas  Merita  y  Llazer, 
8vo.  Val.  1755,  with  rude  woodcuts  of 
his  chief  miracles ;  and  the  *  Sagrario  * 
of  Solor^ano  (see  p.  9),  and  Esp.  Sagr. 
xxxix.  52.    San  Vicente  is  called  the 
St.  Paul  of  Spain,  and  is  the  "  glorious 
apostle"  of  Valencia.    He  is  painted 
fiying  in  the  air,  like  the  winged  angel 
in  the  Apocalypse  (Rev.xiv.  16),  with 
an  inscribed  scroll,  "timetc  Deum,"" 
while  mitres  and  cardinals'  hats  lie 
neglected  on  the  ground,  alluding  to 
his  repeated  nolo  Episcopari.     Miracles 
preceded  his  birth,  for  his  father  was 
an  honest  attorney.    His  mother  when 
pregnant  heard  a  child  barking  in  her 
womb.    Thus  Pliny  (N.  H    viii.  41) 
mentions  a  pagan  dog  speaking,  but  not 
in  a  woman's  belly ;  and  Livy  (xxiv. 
10)  tells  us  that  a  babe  in  utero  matris 
exclaimed  To  trimnphe.    So  the  mother 
of  the  bloody  Diouysius  dreamed  that 
she  produced  a  Satyf^ais  (Cic.  de  Div. 
i.  20).    So  Hecuba  and  the  dam  of  the 
Inquisidor  St.  Dominick  dreamt  that 
they  were  pregnant  of  fire-brands.    San 


Valencia. 


SAN  VICENTE  DE  FERRER. 


379 


Vicente's  mother,  instead  of  consulting 
a  sage  femme  in  this  uterine  dilemma, 
went  for  advice  to  the  Bishop  Kamon 
del  Gasto,  who  assured  her — a  compli- 
ment to  her  sex — that  she  would  pro- 
duce a  "  mastiff  who  would  hunt  the 
wolves  of  heresy  to  hell."  But  as 
Fielding  says  of  Jonathan  Wyld  the 
Great,  such  men  cannot  come  into  the 
world  like  ordinary  mortals,  so  nature 
introduces  them  on  the  stage  with  a 
grand  preparatory  flourish. 

The  babe  was  whelped  in  1350  in  the 
Calle  del  Mar  (Manzana  91),  where  an 
oratorio  still  marks  the  sacred  spot. 
The  young  terrier  in  due  time  became 
a  monk  of  the  persecuting  Dominican 
order,  and    soon   a  leader    of   these 
Domini   Canes,   those   bloodhounds   of 
the  Inquisition.     He  then  commenced 
an  itinerant  preaching  cnisade  against 
the  Jews,  and  agitated  even  Ireland, 
travelling  there  on  an  ass.     He  was 
followed  by  a  pack  of  disciples,  who, 
credite  posteri,  whipped  each  other  for 
their  mutual  solace  and  benefit.    Spain, 
however,  was  his  "  best  country  ;*'  here 
he  converted  100,000  heretics,  for  he 
preached  a  crusade  of  blood  and  confis- 
cation to  a  fanatic  people  whose  dark 
points  of  character  are  envy,  hatR»d, 
cruelty,  avarice,  and  intolerance.  Thus 
they  gratified  their  worst  passions  os- 
tensibly for  the  sake  of  religion,  and 
the  foulest  crimes  that  could  disgrace 
human  nature  were  travestied  into  acts 
of  piety.    S".  Vicente  still  is  the  school 
master  of  Valencia.     Visit  his  imperial 
college,  which  is  well  managed.     He 
was  a  true  Valencian ;   such   Ribera 
was   in   painting,   Borgia   and   Calvo 
were  in  practice.    He  died  in  France, 
April  5,   1418,  aged  60:  his  miracles 
pass  all  belief  and  number,  and  he  be- 
gan working  them  as  soon  as  he  put  on 
the  cowl.    His  first  essay  was  tried  on 
a  mason,  who,  tumbling  from  a  house- 
top as  Vicente  was  passing  by,  implored 
his  aid.    "  Nay,'*  replied  the  humble 
n»onk,"  I  dare  do  nothing  without  first 
having  the  permission  of  my  superiors." 
He  returned  to  the  convent,  obtained 
leave,  and  then  came  back  and  saved 
the  mason,  who  in  the  meantime  had 
remained  suspended  in  mid-air,  arrested 
in  his  fall  by  an  emanation  of  power 
unknown  to  San  Vicente  himself.    The 


saint  afterwards  cured  the  sick,  ex- 
pelled devils,  raised  the  dead,  had  the 
gift  of  prophecy,  and  predicted  the 
papacy  of  Calixtus  III.,  who  rewarded 
it  by  making  him  a  saint,  a  natural 
empeuo  or  job,  which  most  Spaniards 
will  always  do  for  a.paisano.  He  lived 
and  died  a  virgin,  having  continually 
kicked  the  devil  out  of  his  cell  when- 
ever he  came  in  the  shape  of  a  pretty 
woman ;  he  never  washed  or  wore  linen, 
and  as  he  slept  in  his  woollen  clothes, 
which  he  never  changed,  his  odour  of 
sanctity  spread, far  and  wide,  and  three 
days  after  his  death  his  fragrancy  con- 
verted many  from  their  sins ;  he  was 
always  refusing  mitres ;  the  Virgin 
constantly  visited  him  in  his  cell,  and 
when  he  was  sick,  the  Saviour,  attended 
by  St.  Francis  and  St.  Dominick,  came 
to  comfort  him.  The  events  of  his  life 
and  miracles  still  form  the  religious 
melodrames  of  Valencia.  Thug  by  his 
intercession  no  lightning  can  fall  on 
his  city ;  but  his  great  local  miracle,  the 
restoring  a  stew  of  rice  which  a  boy 
coming  from  a  bakehouse  had  let  fall, 
is  deservedly  popular  in  a  city  which 
exists  chiefly  on  this  grain  and  mess. 

As    San   Vicente  was   baptized   in 
San  Esteban,    his  "  Bautismo  **    is  still 
regularly  performed  ihere  by   appro- 
priately   dressed     characters,    April 
the   5tn.     His  "  miracles'*    are  repre- 
sented during   his    Novenario   in    the 
open  streets,  where  altars  are  erected 
to    him ;     these    exhibitions    on    the 
Mercado,  Tros   Alt,    and   Plaza   de   la 
Congregacion^  are  so  extraordinary  that 
they  must  be  seen  to  be  credited.     St. 
Vincent  of  the  Cape  is  also  a  Valencian 
tutelar,  who  was  put  to  death  in  the 
Santa  Tecla,  Calle  de  Mar ;  his  prison 
in  the  Plaza  de  la  Almoina  was  renewed 
in  1832.     In  this  church  is  also  a  mi- 
raculous image.  El  Crista  del  Rescate^ 
which  is  prayed  to  when  rain  is  wanted, 
and  the  glass  is  observed  to  be  falling. 
The  ch.  of  San  Salvador  possesses  the 
identical  miraculous  image,  El  Cristo 
de  Beifrutf  which  is  described  by  all 
local  historians  as  made  by  Nicodemus, 
and  on  which  St.  Athanasius  is  said  to 
have  written  a  treatise;  many  Jews 
have  been  converted  by  the  blood  and 
water  which  issue  from  its  wounds.  ^* 
navigated  by  itself  from  Syria,  as  o 


380 


VALENCIA — ^AZULEJO. 


Sect.  V. 


"was  common  enough  in  antiquity  and 
Spain.  Compare  Santiago  at  Padron 
and  the  Cristo  de  Burgos ;  compare 
the  wooden  Hercules  that  sailed  much 
in  the  same  way  from  the  same 
country,  Tvre.  (Pausa.  vii.  v.  3.)  The 
image  worked  its  way  up  to  Valencia 
against  the  river-stream ;  a  monu- 
ment, erected  in  1738,  marks  the 
spot  where  it  landed.  Consult  the 
work  of  J.  Bau.  Ballestor,  Val.  1672, 
on  all  the  facts  and  miracles  of  this 
image.  Valencia  has  no  end  of 
churches,  many  of  which  were  once 
mosques,  which  we  in  mercy  omit,  but 
the  sight-seer,  if  not  weary,  may  look 
at  some  pictures  in  San  Andres^  and 
by  Joanes  in  the  Betahlo  of  San  Bar- 
tolome,  and  a  Saviour  in  San  Pedro. 
Observe  also  a  grand  Paso  Nuestra 
Seiiora  del  Carmen^  which  has  a  rich 
cofradia  to  defray  the  culto  and  candles. 
In  San  Esteban  is  the  adorable  and 
miracle-working  body  of  San  Luis 
Beltran,  who  was  bom  close  by ;  an 
oratory  marks  the  sacred  spot. 

Valencia  is  indeed  studded  with  gods 
and  goddesses  Englitterte,  as  Schiller 
sung  of  pagan  Greece.  Here  is  a  local 
tarbi  Deorumy  which,  as  Juvenal  said, 
no  Atlas  could  carry ;  and  Cicero,  could 
he  behold  this  restoration  of  his  Pan- 
theon, would  find  merely  a  few  names 
changed,  the  same  "  numerus  deorum 
innumerabiles"  —  the  plures  quoque 
Joves — the  many  St.  Vincents — the 
Dianse  item  plures — the  many  Virgins 
of  Carmeny  DesimparadoSy  &c.  The 
scholar  may  turn  to  his  remarkable 
passages,  de  Nat.  Deo.  i.  30 ;  iii.  16,  22. 

There  is  a  good  new  theatre  in  the 
Calle  de  las  Barcas,  with  a  handsome 
room,  in  which,  sometimes,  an  Italian 
opera  is  performed.  There  are  some 
books  and  natural  history  at  the 
Sociedad  Economical  Plaza  de  las  Mos- 
cas:  the  public  archives  are  in  the 
Jesuitas,  The  hospitals  of  Valencia 
are  well  managed  for  Spain.  The  Casa 
de  la  Misericordia,  or  poor-house,  is  a 
fine  edifice.  The  Presidio  or  Peniten- 
tiary in  San  AgustiUy  and  the  Galera  for 
women,  are  well  managed  and  may  be 
visited  by  visiting  justices.  The  arms 
of  the  city  are  the  four  bars  of  Cata- 
lonia, with  a  bat,  indicative  of  vigi- 

'<^,  a  quien  vela,  todo  se  revela. 


Valencia  is  celebrated  for  its  Azu- 
lejos  from  the  time  of  the  Moors ;  and 
no  doubt  the  celebrated  Rafael  ware, 
or  Majolica^  arose  from  some  speci- 
mens carried  from  Majorca  (Majolica) 
by  the  Italians  to  Pisa.  The  best  shops 
are  in  the  Calle  ntieva  de  Pescadores, 
and  near  the  Calle  de  Husafa;  many 
subjects  are  kept  ready-made,  and  any 
pattern  can  be  imitated.  The  richest 
colours  are  the  blues,  blacks,  and 
purples.  The  clay,  of  a  chocolate 
brown,  is  brought  irom  Manises,  The 
white  varnish  is  eiven  by  a  mixture  of 
barilla,  lead,  and  tin:  the  ovens  are 
heated  with  furze,  and  the  clay  is 
baked  3  days  and  3  nights,  and  re- 
quires 4  days  to  cool.  Visit  the  manu- 
factory of  Vals,  in  the  suppressed 
extra-mural  Capuohinos, 

Valencia  abounds  in  pleasant  walks ; 
take  one  to  the  river,  or  rather  the 
river-bed,  for  it  is  so  drained  for  irri- 
gation, that,  excepting  at  periods  of 
rains,  it  scarcely  suffices  for  the  washer- 
women.   The  massy  bridges  and  their 
strong  piers,  which  seem  to  be  sine- 
cures, denote,  however,  the  necessity 
of  protection  against  occasional  inun- 
dations.    Thus  the  Puente  del  Mar  was 
carried  away  in  the  flood  of  Nov.  5, 
1776.      The    Valencians    are     great 
pigeon  -  shooters.       The   dip,    at    La 
Pechina,  is  the  resort  for  el  tiro  de  hts 
palomas :  cock-fighting  is  another  pas- 
time ;    the  grand  Renidero  de    Gallos 
is  in  the  Llano  de  la  Zaidia,  and  cow- 
ardly cockthrowing  goes  on  outside  the 
gate  San  Vicente.    Observe  near  La  Pe- 
china an  inscription  found  here  in  1759 
— "  Sodalicium  vemarum  colentes  Isid.** 
This  was  an  ancient'  cofradia  to  Isis, 
which  paid  for  her  culto,  so  inveterate 
is  this  habit.    There  is  a  treatise  on 
this  inscription,  by  Augustin  Sales, 
Val.  1760.   Valencia  once  abounded  in 
inscriptions,  most  of  which  were  buried 
in  1541  under  the  bridge  Serranos,  by 
a  priest  named  Juan  Salaya,  because 
pagan.    The  next  bridge,  walking  to 
the  rt.,  is  that  of  La  Trinidad,  built  in 
1356 :  then  comes  the  Real,  the  Moor- 
ish Jerea — Arabice  Sharea,  of  the  law 
— which  fell  in,  and  was  restored  by 
Charles  V.    Crossing  over  was  the  site 
of  El  Real,  the  royal  residence  of  the 
viceroys,  which  was  pulled  do^n  in 


Valencia. 


ROUTE  40. — VALENCIA — EL  GRAO. 


381 


the  war,  and  the  space  since  converted 
into  a  pleasant  plantation.    The  river 
now  divides  the  Glorieta  from  the  long 
avenues  of  the   delightful  Alameda, 
whose  shady  overarching  branches  con- 
tinue to  el  Grao,  the  gradus,  or  steps 
to  the  sea.     This  agreeable  drive  is  the 
lounge  of  the  natives,  who  flock  here 
in  the  summer  for  the  sea-bathing. 
Vast  sums  of  money  have  been  ex- 
pended, since  1792,  in  the  attempt  to 
make  a  port,  the  one  thing  wanting  to 
Valencia,  of  this  bad  sandy  roadstead, 
which  is  much  exposed  to  gales  from 
the  S.  and  the  S.W.,  and  to  the  choking 
from  the  Turia,  but  the  French  invasion 
arrested  the  good  work.    The  Muelle, 
or  mole,  was  to  be  pushed  forward  in 
two  piers,  with  towers  and  batteries  at 
each  extremity.     The  temporada  de  los 
Bafios  is  a  gay  period.    The  baths  are 
thatched  with  nee  straw.    The  road  is 
then  thronged  with   tartanas,   which 
convey  all  sexes  to  their  immersion, 
hissing  hot  like  horseshoes.    The  Grao 
waters  are  said  to  soften  the  female 
heart,  and  to  cure  confirmed  sterility. 
Here,   if  fame  reports  true,  wanton- 
ness is  concentrated  under  the  pretence 
of  health,  and  many  a  Penelopje  comes 
away  a  Helen.    But  so  it  was  in  olden 
times  if  those  Spaniards,  Martial  xi.  80, 
and  Seneca,  Ep.  5 1 ,  deserve  credit.    See 
also  the  case  of  the  Cinthia  of  that 
minute  (Propertius  i.  11,  27). 

Of  all  the  rascally  tribe  of  watermen 
and  cads,  who  have  fish-hooks  for  fin- 
gers and  harpoons  for  thumbs,  those  of 
the  Grao  are  the  most  unconscionable. 
If,  however,  you  know  the  tariff,  they 
give  up  disputing ;  the  proper  charges 
are  a  peseta  each  person ;  two  reals  for 
a  portmanteau ;  one  for  each  smaller 
package.  If  without  luggage,  the  price 
is  two  reals  to  land  and  two  to  be  put 
on  board.  N.B.  The  charges  for  a 
tartana  are  6  reals  per  hour. 

Those  returning  to  Valencia  should 
enter  by  the  Puerta  del  Mar  ;  here  once 
stood  El  RemediOf  which,  with  the 
splendid  sepulchres  of  the  Moncada 
family,  was  destroyed  during  recent 
reforms. 

The  communications  between  Valen- 
cia and  the  other  provinces  are  nume- 
rous; for  those  S.  with  Alicante  and 


Murcia,  see  Routes  36.  38.  The 
steamers  communicate  with  Alicante 
and  Cadis^.  With  Madrid  there  are 
two  routes.  One,  that  taken  by  the  dili- 
gences, runs  through  Almansa,  The 
second,  which  passes  through  Cuenca,  is 
nearer  and  by  far  the  most  interesting. 
The  communications  with  Zaragoza, 
run  through  Teruel  and  Daroca.  Tliere 
is  and  long  has  been  some  talk  of  a  rail 
between  Valencia  and  Madrid.  Some 
Londoners  in  1845  put  forth  a  prospec- 
tus, which  shows  what  the  gullability 
and  geographical  ignorance  of  the 
"  City "  will  swallow.  "  For  only 
2,500,000/.  the  sea-port  of  Valencia  was 
to  be  opened  for  Madrid,  with  a  pop. 
of  800,000  (200,000),  and  the  plan  was 
to  pay  28  per  cent.  Apply  for  shares 
at  No.  37,  Moorgate-street." 

Meantime  a  bit  of  a  railroad  runs 
from  Valencia  to  Alcira,  and  the  na- 
tives, who  think  it  almost  unique, 
sometimes  point  it  out  proudly  to 
Englishmen,  and  ask  patronisingly, 
whether  they  have  yet  got  Ferros  car- 
riles  in  England. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  from 
Valencia  to  Denia^  visiting  the  Albufera 
lake,  and  returning  by  Alcira,  where  the 
rice-grounds  and  acequias  are  highly 
interesting.  The  towns  are  very  popu- 
lous ;  the  fertilitv  of  the  soil  is  incre- 
dible. It  is  a  land  of  Ceres  and  Bacchus, 
Flora  and  Pomona,  while  the  sea  teems 
with  delicious  fish.  The  national  me- 
thod of  fishing  called  Las  Parejas  del 
BoUf  and  often  prohibited  from  sweep- 
ing the  sea,  is  managed  by  two  boats 
— -pairs  of  oxen  ;  to  each  of  which  the 
ends  of  a  deep  net  or  Seme  is  attached. 


roitte  40.--excttb8ion  feom 
Valencia. 

Cilia 2 

Sueca 3  . .  5 

CuUera l  ..  6 

Gandia 4  ..  10 

U6iiia      ••.•••••.3  13 

Gandia 3  ..  16 

Carcs^ente 4  ..  20 

Alcira 1  ..  21 

A\jamesi   ...  .^.  ...    1  ..  22 

Yidencia 5  ..  27 


382 


ROUTE  40. — THE  ALBUFERA. 


Sect.  V. 


This  celebrated  lagoon,  the  Albufera, 
Arabic^  Albahtr,  "  the  little  sea,  the 
lake,"  commences  near  Cilia  or  Silkti  the 
see  and  throne  of  Flora  and  Pomona,  and 
extends  about  3  L.  N.  and  S.,  being 
about  9  L.  in  circumference,  and  from  3 
to  12  ft.  deep.  It  narrows  to  the  N., 
separated  bj  a  strip  of  land  from  the 
sea,  with  which  a  canal,  Perello,  that 
can  be  opened  and  shut  at  pleasure, 
communicates.  It  is  fed  by  the  Turia 
and  the  Acequia  del  Bey.  It  fills  in 
winter,  and  is  then  a  complete  preserve 
of  fish  and  wild-fowl.  The  fishermen 
dwell  in  chozaSf  exposed  to  agues  and 
mosquitos.  70  sorts  of  birds  breed 
here  in  the  broza,  bush,  and  reeds ; 
the  small  ducks  and  teal  are  delicious, 
especially  the  Fuja,  There  are  2 
public  days  of  shooting,  the  11th  and 
25th  of  Nov.,  when  many  hundred 
boats  of  sportsmen  harass  the  water- 
fowl, which  darken  the  air.  The 
dehesGy  or  strip  between  the  lake  and 
sea,  abounds  with  rabbits  and  wood- 
cocks, gallinetas.  This  lake  and  do- 
main, valued  in  1813  at  300,000/., 
a  royal  property,  was  granted  to 
Suchet  by  Buonaparte,  who  created 
him  a  French  Due  by  the  title  of  Al- 
bufera,  in  reward  for  his  capture  of 
Valencia.  The  English  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, at  Vitoria,  unsettled  the  con- 
veyance, and  rendered  this  water 
Suchet  another  of  the  aqueous  non- 
entities of  Valencia,  which  he  had 
pretty  well  ras^d^  razziaedy  and  Sangra- 
doed,  alike  after  his  pristine  barber,  as 
his  later  barbarous  habits ;  tonsoribus 
notum.  Ferdinand  VII.  would  have 
confirmed  the  gift  to  Suchet,  a  de- 
stroyer, although  he  made  difficulties 
about  the  Soto  of  Granada  which  had 
been  granted  to  our  Duke,  his  deli- 
verer, to  whom,  strange  to  say,  this 
very  albufera  was  contemplated  being 
given,  had  not  the  Valencians,  to  their 
shame,  raised  objections  I  Charles  IV. 
had  made  it  over  to  the  minion  Godoy, 
as  he  had  also  done  the  8oto  de 
Roma. 

SuecOf  Pop.  8500,  is  in  the  heart  of 
the  rich  rice-country,  las  tierras  de 
arroz.  So  is  Cullera,  Pop.  7000,  built 
on  the  mouth  of  the  Jucar.  Admi- 
rably placed,  it  might  easily  be  made 


a  secure  port  for  this  portless  coast,  by 
connecting  the  shore  with  the  Moro 
and  other  points,  which  nature  seems 
to  suggest,  and  thus  offer  an  outlet  to 
a  district  which,  with  the  Huerta  of 
Gandia,  is  an  Eden  of  fertility.  Gem- 
diOf  Pop.  5500,  with  its  ancient  walls 
and  towers,  contains  a  fine  Palace, 
where  lived  the  sainted  Duke  F.  de 
Borja,  with  r^ains  ofgildLmg,azuleJos, 
and  faded  splendour.  The  geologist 
may  ascend  the  Monduber.  Visit  also, 
near  Benidoleig  (3  L.),  the  stalactical 
cuevas  under  the  S^uilif  with  curious 
lake  in  the  centre  caverns.  Examine 
also  the  marbles  at  Marchquera  and 
Tramus.  Take  a  local  ^uide.  Denia, 
Pop.  2500,  is  the  capital  of  its  Marque- 
sado,  and  once  a  good  haven  and  well 
fortified,  is  now  without  port  or  de- 
fence, nor  are  any  steps  taken  to  set 
matters  right.  Now,  near  the  Torre 
de  Carruz,  carob-trees  rear  their  stems, 
in  the  place  of.  the  masts  of  ships  when 
Sertorius  made  it  his  naval  station 
(Strabo,  iii.  239).  Denia,  with  its 
picturesque  old  fortifications,  lies  on, 
nay,  in  the  sea,  under  the  rock  el  Mong^^ 
which  rises  about  2600  ft.,  command- 
ing the  views  which  gave  one  of  the 
ancient  names  Emeroscopium,  derived 
from  this  peep-of-day  look-out  for  pi- 
rates ;  the  present  name  is  a  corruption 
of  Dianiiimy  from  a  celebrated  temple 
to  Diana  of  Ephesus,  who  now  is  sup- 
planted by  la  Virgen  de  los  Desampa- 
rados.  The  Huerta  is  covered  with 
vines,  olives,  fig  and  almond  trees : 
the  great  traffic  is  in  the  Denias  or 
coarse  Valendan  raisins,  used  in  Eng- 
land for  plum-puddings ;  inferior  to 
those  of  Malaga,  which  are  dried  in 
the  sun,  these  are  cured,  as  at  Smyrna, 
in  a  lye,  whence  they  are  called  lexicts. 
The  Mongd  slopes  down  to  the  Cape 
San  Antonio,  and  at  its  back  1  L.  from 
Denia  basks  the  picturesque  town  of 
Jabea,  Pop.  about  3500,  which  the 
lovers  of  Claude  Vemet  and  Salvator 
Rosa  should  visit:  indeed  the  whol« 
Marina,  like  the  coast  of  Amalfi,  is  a 
picture:  you  have  a  beauteous  sky, 
blue  broken  headlands,  a  still  deep- 
green  sea,  with  craft  built  for  the 
painter  skimming  over  the  rippling 
waves,  and  a  crew  dressed  as  if  for  an 


Valencia, 


ROUTE  41 , — ^VALENCIA  TO  MURVIEDRO. 


383 


opera  ballet  j  then  inland  are  wild 
mountain  gorges,  mediaeval  turrets  and 
castles,  placed  exactly  where  the  artist 
would  wish  them,  and  rendered  more 
beautiful  by  time  and  ruin.  There  are 
many  cuevas  or  grottos  in  the  moun- 
tains, one  especially  called  del  Organo, 
and  the  Citeva  del  Oro. 

The  coast  on  rounding  Cape  San 
Antonio  is  broken  by  headlands,  of 
which  those  of  San  Martin^  Monayra, 
and  the  isolated  rock  of  much  botanical 
interest  Hifac  or  Ayfac,  are  the  most 
remarkable.  In  the  bay  is  Calpe^  Pop. 
1200,  a  small  Gibraltar,  distant  3  L. 
by  land  from  Denia ;  it  was  the  site  of 
a  Roman  town ;  antiquities  and  mosaics 
are  constantly  discovered,  and  as  con- 
stantly neglected  or  destroyed.  At 
the  curious  Banos  de  la  Heyna,  between 
2  promontories,  are  the  remains  of  a 
Eoman  fish-pond  (consult  the  work  of 
Cavanilles  for  botanical  details).  From 
Calpe  to  Oandia  there  is  a  wild  inland 
route  through  the  hills,  by  Benisa^  Alca- 
nallj  Orha,  Sagra^  and  over  the  ridge  of 
Segarria  to  Pego,  and  then  crossing  the 
fiuUent  or  Calapatar  river  to  Oliva. 
From  Gandia  the  road  turns  off  to 
the  1.  over  the  hills,  through  fiarig  and 
Aygues  to  Alcira. 

The  high  road  and  railroad  pass 
through  an  **  isolated"  tr Act  (Arabic^ 
Gesirah  —  Island),  round  which  the 
rivers  Albayda,  Sellent,  Gabriel,  and 
Requena  flow  into  the  Jucar.  Wall- 
girt  Alcira,  (see  p.  359),  Pop.  13,000, 
and  placed  in  a  bosom  of  plenty. 
The  rich  district  is  chiefly  watered  by 
the  Acequia  del  Bey,  a  cornucopia  of 
fertility.  The  engineer  should  visit 
Antella  (1  L.),  and  examine  the  mag- 
nificent new  azvd  archwork,  and  where 
the  canal  is  first  fed  from  the  Jucar. 
The  parish  church  of  Aljames,  Pop. 
4500,  has  a  good  Betablo,  and  some 
pictures  by  Ribalta,  but  the  best  were 
taken  away  by  Godoy. 

Those  proceeding  N.  by  steam 
should  previously  make  an  excursion 
inland,  while  those  who  are  going  by 
diligence  to  Tarragona  may  ride  to 
Murviedro,  and  there  take  up  the 
coach,  having  secured  their  places  for 
the  number  of  days  in  advance. 


Route  41. — Valencia  to 
mueviedeo. 

Liria ', 4 

Chelva 5 

Segorbe  ...., 5 

Murviedro 6 

On  quitting  Valencia  we  strike  into 
the  Campo  de  Liria,  rich  and  healthy 
too,  for  here  flourish  the  vine  and 
olive,  not  the  pestilence-spreading  rice. 
Manises,  where  the  clay  for  the  azulejo 
pottery  comes  from,  lies  to  the  1. 
Liria  is  a  large  town :  Pop.  8000, 
principally  agricultural.  This  is  the 
"  hameau  de  cinq  ou  six  feux  "  which 
the  accurate  Le  Sage  gave  to  Gil  Bias 
as  his  domain.  Liria  was  built  in 
1252,  by  Jaime  I.,  on  the  site  of  a 
Roman  town  Edeta  (Lauro),  destroyed 
in  the  wars  of  Pompey  and  Sertorius, 
of  which  a  portion  of  a  reservoir  yet 
remains.  Liria  gives  a  ducal  title  to 
the  Duque  de  Alva,  who  represents 
the  Due  de  Berwick.  In  the  hand- 
some Parroquia  observe  the  coro,  pro- 
perly placed  round  the  preshiterio. 
The  classical  fa<jade,  with  statues  of 
St.  Vincent,  the  Virgin,  &c.,  is  by 
Tomas  Esteve,  1672 ;  in  the  inside 
observe  a  Concepcion  by  Espinosa, 
1 663,  and  the  Mausoleum  of  the  Duchess 
of  Alva,  by  Alvarez.  Ascend  also  to 
the  Colegio  de  San  Miguel  for  the  deli- 
cious view  of  the  country ;  the  image  of 
the  saint  over  the  altar-mayor  was  re- 
spected by  the  French  in  1812,  and  the 
Beatas  respected  by  Cabrera  in  1836, 
when  he  sacked  the  town.  Liria  is 
best  seen  on  the  29th  of  Sept.  Michael- 
mas-day attracts  the  peasants  in  their 
classical  dresses :  the  Eremitorio  on  his 
mountain  is  also  much  visited.  In  the 
neighbouring  hills  of  San  Miguel  and 
Barbara  are  singular  marble  quarries. 

At  Benisano,  a  village  i  L.  below 
Liria,  and  near  the  high  road,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Moorish  castle,  now  be- 
longing to  the  Conde  de  Casal,  in  which 
FranQois  I.  was  confined  until  July  20, 
1525.  He  was  landed  a  prisoner  after 
Pavia  on  June  29th,  and  was  allowed 
to  remain  only  2  days  in  Valencia. 
Benisano  is  the  Venysollo  of  Mous. 
ChampollionFigeac's  treatise,  and  from 
whence  Frangois  sent  an  envoy  with  a 
most  humble  letter  to  Charles  V. 


<5»4 


ROUTE  41. — ^VALENCIA  TO  SEGORBE. 


oect.  V  . 


An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the 
Cirtuja  de  Portaceli,  in   the  opposite 
hills  near  Olocau,  and  about  2  L.  N.E. 
from  Liria,  and  3  L.  from  Valencia. 
This  suppressed  convent  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  plain  and  sea,  was 
founded  in  1272  by  the  bishop,  Andres 
de  Albalat,  and  was  once  a  museum 
of    art.      Here    Alonso    Cano    took 
refuge  after  the  death  of  his  wife ; 
for  her  imputed  murder  by   him  is 
an    idle    calumny    of   the    gossiping 
Palomino,   unsupported   by   any  evi- 
dence ;  had  it  been  true,  would  Phi- 
lip IV.  have  made  him  a  canon,  or 
been  his  patron?    He  carved  for  the 
monks  a  crucifix,  and  painted  several 
pictures,   now  gone.      This    majestic 
convent  was  renowned  for  its  frescoes 
and  rich  marbles,  now  it  is  desolate, 
yet  the  picturesque  wooded  mountain 
situation  is  unchanged.     The  superb 
aqueduct  is  of  the  time  of  the  Catholic 
sovereigns.     The  wine,  "  vino  rancio" 
is  excellent.     From  Liria  to  Chelva  the 
direct  road  is  through  La  Llosa.    It  is 
better  to  turn  oflF  to  the  1.  and  visit 
Chestalgar,  near  the  Turia,  where  are 
some  remains  of  a  Moorish  aqueduct. 
All  this  district,  up  to  1609,  was  inha- 
bited   by  industrious    Moriscos.      At 
ChulUlay  famous  for  apricots,  is  the  ex- 
traordinary Salto,  or  leap:  the  Turia 
has  cut  its  way  through  perpendicular 
walls  of  mountains  (see  particularly 
the  peninsula  of  rocks  at  La  Punta). 
Chulilla  was  the  scene  of  much  "  little 
war"   during    the    Carlists    struggle. 
Re-entering  the  Campo,  and  keeping 
the  Turia  on  the  1.,  is  Chelva,  a  rich 
village  ;  Pop.  4500.     In  the  Bambla  de 
ios  Arcos  is  a  fine  Roman  aqueduct: 
the  arches  which  span  the  defile  are 
rare  bits  for  the  artist.    One  portion  is 
injured,  the  other  nearly  perfect.    The 
Campo  de  Chelva  is  most  fertile;  the 
"  Pico**  hill,  distant  I  L.,  is  singular. 

From  Chelva  it  is  better  to  retrace 
the  route  to  La  Llosa,  and  thence  to 
El  Villar  del  Arzobispo,  for  the  circuit 
by  Alpuente  and  Yesa  is  tedious ;  then 
strike  into  the  Lacobds  hills,  famous 
for  rich  marbles:  a  cross-road  of  5 
mountain  leagues  leads  to  Segorhe,  At 
Alcublas,  24  L.,  which  is  in  the  heart  of 
the  rugged  country,  the  road  branches 


and  leads  W.  through  Oset  to  Andilla, 
distant  about  3  L. ;  this  hamlet  of  700 
souls,  sunk  amid  the  mountains,  has  a 
very   fine   parish    church,   and    some 
noble  pictures  by  Ribalta.    The  Retablo 
is  classical   and  Corinthian,  and  en- 
riched with  statuary  and  basso  relievos  ; 
the  insides  of  the  shutters  are  painted 
with  the  following  subjects— the  Visi- 
tation of  the  Virgin,  her  Presentation, 
Santa  Ana  and  San  Joaquin,  and  the 
Circumcision  ;  the  outsides  with — the 
Dispute  with  the  Doctors,  a  Riposo, 
the  Birth  and  Marriage  of  the  Virgin. 
These  were  executed  in  Ribalta's  best 
period.     Ponz   (iv.  194)  prints   some 
curious  details  as  to  the  erection  and 
prices  of  this   fine  Retablo,  which   is 
buried  in  these  lonely  regions.     1  L. 
from  Andilla  is  Canales ;  the  villagers 
exist  by  supplying  the  snow,  of  which 
so  much  is  used  in  Valencia,  from  the 
Bellida   hill.     Returning  to   Alcublas, 
about  half  way  in  the  hills  is  La  Cueva 
Santa,  or  a  deep  cave,  in  which  is  a 
sanctuary  of  the  Virgin.    The  chapel 
is  below,  the  rock  forming  the  roof, 
and  you  deseed  by  a  staircase.     This 
holy  grotto  is  visited  on  the  8th  of 
Sept.  by  the  peasantry  from  .far  and 
near. 

Segorbe,  which  is  considered  to  have 
been  the  Segobriga  Edetanorum,  con- 
tains about  6000  souls,  and  rises  in  its 
valley  above  the  Palancia,  surrounded 
by  gardens,  which,  under  a  beneficial 
climate  and  copious  irrigation,  are 
incredibly  fertile.  The  view  from  the 
rocky  pinnacle  above  the  town  is 
charming.  Segorbe  was  taken  from 
the  Moors  by  Don  Jaime  in  1245. 
There  is  a  history  of  the  cathedral, 
antiguedades,  &c.,  by  Francisco  de  Vil- 
lagrasa,  4to.,  Valencia,  1664.  The 
edifice  is  not  remarkable,  but  has  a 
Retablo  of  the  Joanes  school  and  a  good 
cloister.  Parts  of  the  ancient  castle 
and  walls  were  taken  down  to  build 
the  Casa  de  Misericordia.  The  limpid 
Fuente  de  la  Esperanza,  near  the  Gero- 
nomite  convent,  gushes  at  once  a  river 
from  the  rock  ;  the  water  has  a  petri- 
fying power.  Scan  Martin  de  las  Monjas 
has  a  Doric  fa9ade ;  inside  is  the  tomb 
of  the  founder,  Pedro  de  Casanova; 
inquire  for  the  fine  Ribalta,  the  Descent 


Valencia. 


ROUTE  41.— MURVIEDRO. 


385 


of  Christ  into  Hades.  In  the  Seminnrio 
is  the  tomb  of  the  founder,  Pedro  Mi- 
ralles;  his  effigy  kneels  on  a  sarco- 
phagus, on  which  some  of  the  events  of 
his  life  are  sculptured.  Remains  of 
Roman  walls  and  cisterns  are  pre- 
served, and  some  Doric  pillars  are  let 
into  the  house  of  the  D.  of  Medinaceli. 
Near  the  town  is  the  suppressed  Car- 
thusian convent  of  Vol  de  Crista,  with 
its  picturesque  paper-mills.  Unresist- 
ing and  unwarlike  Segorbe  was  taken 
and  sacked  by  Suchet,  and  again  taken 
by  Cabrera  in  1835,  who  had  only 
440  men ! 

For  the  high  road  to  Zaragoza, 
through  Xerica,  Teruel,  and  Daroca, 
see  Index  of  vol.  ii. 

MurviedrOf  with  a  poor  posada,  lies 
on  the  Palancia.  The  long  lines  of 
walls  and  towers  crown  the  height, 
which  rises  above  the  site  of  Saguntum, 
founded,  1384  years  before  Christ,  by 
the  Greeks  of  Zacynthus  (Zante) 
(Strabo,  iii.  240),  and  one  of  the  few 
emporise  the  jealous  Phoenicians  ever 
permitted  their  dreaded  rivals  to  esta- 
blish on  the  Peninsular  coasts.  It  was 
formerly  a  seaport,  but  now  the  fickle 
waters  have  retired  more  than  a  league. 
No  Iberian  city  has  been  more  de- 
scribed in  history.  Being  the  frontier 
town,  allied  to  Rome,  and  extremely 
rich,  it  was  hated  by  Hannibal,  who 
attacked  it..  The  obstinacy  and  horrors 
of  the  defence  rivalled  Numantia. 
Sil.  Italicus  (i.  271)  gives  the  sad  de- 
tails. The  town  perished,  said  Florus 
(ii.  6,  3),  a  great  but  mournful  monu- 
ment of  fidelity  to  Rome,  and  of 
Rome's  neglect  of  an  ally  in  the  hour 
of  need ;  Saguntum  was  revenged,  as 
its  capture  led  to  the  second  Punic 
war,  and  ultimately  to  the  expiilsion 
from  Spain  of  the  Carthaginian.  It  was 
taken  In  535  u.c.  See  also  Pliny,  iii.  3 ; 
and  read  on  the  site  itself  Livy,  xxi.  7* 

Saguntum f  rebuilt  by  the  Romans, 
became  a  municipium,  and  fell  with 
the  empire,  the  remains  having  been 
ever  since  used  by  Goth,  Moor,  and 
Spaniard,  as  a  quarry  above  ground. 
As  with  Italica,  mayors  and  monks 
have  converted  the  shattered  marbles 
to  their  base  purposes.  Mutilated 
fra^nnents  are  here  and  there  imbedded 

Spain, — I. 


in  the  modem  houses  ;  so  true  is  the 

lament  of  Argensola : — 

"  Con  marmoles  de  nobles  inscripcionet 
Teatro  un  tiempo  y  arat,  en  Sagunto 
Fabrican  hoy  tab^rnas  y  mesonet." 

The  name  Murviedro  (Murbiter  of 
the  Moors)  is  derived  from  these  Mwn 
vetereSf  Muros  viejos;  the  la  vieja  of 
Spaniards,  the  ^etXam  of  Greeks,  the 
citta  vecchia  of  Italy — Old  Sarum.  So 
the  Italian  names  Viterbo,  Orvieto, 
Cervetri ;  and  others  represent  the  Urbs 
vetus,Vetus  urbs,  Ceres  vetus, &c.  Frag- 
ments of  the  once  famous  red  pottery 
are  found,  the  Calices  Saguntini,  Mart, 
xiv.  108,  on  which  the  Conde  de  Lu- 
miares  wrote  an  8vo.,  Barros  Saguntinos, 
Val  1772.  Many  coins  are  dug  up 
here;  indeed,  the  mint  of  Saguntum 
struck  27  specimens  (Florez,  *  M.*  ii. 
560).  The  modern  town,  straggling 
and  miserable,  contains  about  5000 
inhabitants,  agriculturists,  and  wine- 
makers.  The  great  temple  of  Diana 
stood  where  the  convent  of  La  Tri- 
nidad now  does.  Here  are  let  in  some 
6  Roman  inscriptions  relating  to  the 
families  of  Sergia  and  others.  At  the 
back  is  a  water-course,  with  portions 
of  the  walls  of  the  Circus  Maximus. 
In  the  suburb  San  Salvador  a  mosaic 
pavement  of  Bacchus  was  discovered 
m  1745,  and  soon  after  was  let  go  to 
ruin.  The  famous  theatre,  placed  on 
the  slope  above  the  town,  to  which  the 
orchestra  is  turned,  was  much  used  up 
by  Suchet  to  strengthen  the  castle, 
whose  long  lines  of  wall  and  tower  rise 
grandly  above;  the  general  form  of 
the  theatre  is,  however,  easily  to  be 
made  out.  The  Roman  architect  took 
advantage  of  the  rising  ground  for  his 
upper  seats.  It  looks  N.E.  in  order  to 
secure  shade  to  the  spectators,  who 
thus,  seated  in  balcones  de  sombra,  as  at 
a  modern  bull-fight,  must,  like  those  ' 
in  the  Greek  theatre  at  Taorminia,  in 
Sicily,  have  enjoyed  at  the  same  time 
a  spectacle  of  nature  and  of  art.  The 
local  arrangements,  such  as  are  com- 
mon to  Roman  theatres,  resemble  those 
of  Merida,  and  have  been  measured 
and  described  by  Dean  Marti ;  Ponz, 
iv.  232;  in  the  Esp,  Sag.,  viii.  151. 
There  is  also  a  Latin  and  Spanisji  letter 
in  4to.  Val.  1711,  to  Josef  Ortiz,  dean 

8 


386 


ROUTE  42. — ^VALENCIA  TO  TARRAGONA. 


Sect.  V. 


of  Xativa ;  and  a  Diaertacum,  bj  En- 
rique Palos  y  Navarro,  4to.  Val.  1807. 
Ascending  to  the  castle,  near  the  en- 
trance are  some  buttresses  and  massy 
masonry,  said  to  be  remains  of  the  old 
Saguntine  castle.    The  present  is  alto- 
gether Moorish,  and  girdles  the  irre- 
gular eminences.    The  citadel,  with 
the  towers   San   Fernando   and    San 
Pedro,  is  placed  at  the  extreme  height, 
and  probably  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Saguntine    keep    described   by    Livy 
(xxi.  7).    Suchet  stormed  the  fortress 
from  this  side.     The  castle  is  ram- 
bling and  extensiye,-with  some  Moorish 
cisterns,  built  on  the  supposed  site  of 
a  Roman  temple.    There  is  a  remark- 
able echo,  and  a  few   fragments  of 
sculpture  neglected  as  -usual  by  the 
insBsthetic  goyemors,  and  mutilated  by 
Suchet's  soldiers.     The  views  on  all 
sides  around  are  very  extensive,  es- 
pecially looking  towards  Valencia  from 
the  governor's  garden.    This  fortress 
is  the  key  of  Valencia,  which  never  can 
safely  be  attacked  from  this  side  while 
it    remains    untaken;    yet,    although 
ample   time  and  warning  of  coming 
calamities  were  given,  neither  Blake 
nor  the  Valencian  junta  took  any  steps 
to  render  it  tenable;  but  the  gallant 
governor,  Luis  Andriani,  everywhere 
repulsed  the  French,  and  as  Suchet's 
only  chance  was  the  winning  a  deci- 
sive battle,  a  Fabian  defensive  policy, 
on  the  part  of  the  ^wmiards,  must  have 
caused  him  to  retreat,  and  if  Blake 
had  only  done  nothing,  Valencia  was 
saved;   but  he  was  determined,  like 
Areizaga  at  OcaOa,  to  **  lose  another 
kingdom  by  the  insatiable  desire  of 
fighting  pitched   battles    with  undis- 
ciplined troops,  led  by  inexperienced 
officers."    (Disp.  Nov.  27,  1811.)    Ac- 
cordingly, he  marched  from  Valencia 
with  25,000  men,  and  attacked  Suchet, 
who  had  less  than  20,000,  in  the  plain, 
Oct.  25,   1811.     Before  the  battle  he 
made  every  disposition  to  ensure  its 
loss,  and,  in  a  very  short  time  after  it 
began,  fled  with  his  whole  army  under 
the   very   eyes  of  the  garrison,   who 
caught  the  infection  and  capitulated 
that  very  night — unworthy  children  of 
Saguntine  ancestors,  and  forgetful  of 
'  ^  religio  loci.    The  loss  of  Valencia 


was  the  result. '  The  castle  is  now 
sadly  dilapidated,  fine  new  names  in- 
deed are  ^ven  to  bastions,  &c.,  but 
everything  recU  is  wanting. 

There  are  two  means  of  getting  to 
Tarragona  and  Catalonia — one  by  the 
steamer  which  sails  to  Barcelona,  ar- 
riving in  about  24  h. :  the  other  by 
the  diligence.  The  Ebro  divides  the 
provinces  of  Valencia  and  Catalonia; 
those  going  to  Zaragoza  by  Tortosa  will 
stop  at  Amposta,  and  then  proceed  by 
Rte.  43. 


BoTTTE  42. — Valencia  to 
Tabbaoona. 

Albalat 2 

Murviedro 2    ..  4 

Almenitra i*  ..  5^ 

Nnles    .........  li  ..  1 

Villa  B«al 2    ..  9 

Castellon  de  la  Plana    .  .  1     ..  10 

Oropesa 3    ..  13 

Torreblanca 2    ..  15 

Benicarlo 3    ..  18 

Yinaroz 1     ..  19 

Amposta .  4i  ..  23* 

Perello 4    ..  21k 

Hoepitalet 3*  ..  31 

Cambrils 2i  ..  33i 

Tarragona 3    ..  36i 

This,  the  regular  diligence-road, 
coasts  along  the  Mediterranean,  and  is 
not  particularly  interesting,  excepting 
at  Tarragona  and  its  vicinity ;  the  coach 
from  Valencia  reaches  Barcelona  in 
about  40  h. 

On  leaving  Valencia  to  the  rt.,  amid 
its  palms  and  cypresses,  is  the  once 
celebrated  Geronomite  convent  San 
Miguel  de  los  Reyes,  formerly  the  Els- 
corial  of  Valencia.  It  was  built  (the 
ruins  of  Saguntum  serving  as  a 
quarry!)  in  1544  by  Vidafia  and 
Alonso  de  Covarrubias  for  Don  Fer- 
nando, Duke  of  Calabria.  This  ill- 
fated  heir  to  the  throne  of  Naples 
surrendered  to  the  Great  Captain,  re- 
lying on  his  word  of  honour,  and  was 
perfidiously  imprisoned  for  10  years 
at  Xativa  by  Ferdinand  the  Catholic. 
Rdeased  by  Charles  V.,  and  ap- 
pointed Viceroy  of  Valencia,  he  raised 
this  convent  for  his  burial-place;  the 
effigies  of  the  founder  and  his  wiie 
were  placed  at  each  side  of  the  high 
altar.    The  marbles  and  cloisters  were 


Valencia. 


ROUTE  42. — BURJASOT — ^NULES. 


387 


saperb.  All  was  sacked  by  Sachet, 
who  burnt  the  precious  library,  while 
Sebastiani  bought  the  lands  for  less 
than  one-fourth  of  the  value,  and  even 
this  he  did  not  pay.  A  trial  took  place 
in  Paris  in  1843  between  him  and  the 
heirs  of  one  Crochart,  a  French  pay- 
master, who  speculated  in  these  joint 
investments.  The  curious  evidence 
lifted  up  a  corner  of  curtain,  and  re- 
vealed how  these  things  were  managed 
under  the  empire.  And  next  to  Soult 
and  Sebastiani  this  gentleman  was  one 
of  the  chief  "collectors"  of  Spanish 
art,  with  small  reference  to  picture 
pay-ing.  Now  everything  is  going  to 
the  dogs,  and  the  conversion  of  the 
ex-convent  into  a  cigar  manufactory, 
is  prayed  for  as  a  salvation. 

To  the  1.  is  Barjasot,  built  on  a  slope 
amid  its  gardens,  and  the  favourite 
country  resort  of  the  Valencians :  on 
the  way  to  the  hermitage  San  Roque  are 
41  curious  enclosed  Moorish  mazmorras, 
or  caves,  excavated  in  the  rock,  for 
preserving  corn.  Here  they  are  called 
siches,  in  Spanish  sciios.  These  old 
crypts  resemble  those  on  the  Martires 
at  Granada  —  the  Sicilian  Silt  (see  p. 
315).  The  esplanade  on  which  they 
are  placed  commands  a  charming 
view  of  Valencia :  the  figs  are  excel- 
lent ;  the  plants,  transported  to  Mar- 
seilles and  Genoa,  denote  their  parent- 
age in  the  names  Bougasotes  and 
Brogiotti.  It  was  here  that  the  troops 
of  Cabrera,  March  29,  1837,  wound 
up  a  banquet  with  the  feu  cTartijice  of 
shooting  their  prisoners  —  Cosa^  de 
Espana,  Passing  Albalat,  Puig  lies  to 
the  rt.  near  the  sea ;  here  Jaime  I.  in 
1237  routed  the  Moorish  king  Zaen, 
and  in  consequence  captured  Valencia. 
We  now  approach  the  sites  of  one  of 
the  worst  of  Blake's  multifarious  dis- 
graces, by  which  the  Spaniards  lost  this 
capital  on  the  same  field  where  it  was 
won  by  their  better -led  ancestors. 
Crossing  the  Palancia,  and  leaving 
Murviedro,  under  the  spurs  of  the 
Sierra  de  Eapadan  is  Almenaraj  Arabic^ 
the^  lantern,  the  pharos,  or  place  of 
light,  with  its  ruined  castle  on  a  triple- 
pointed  hill,  on  which  once  stood  the 
temple  of  Diana,  to  which  the  sea  for- 
merly reached.  A  stone  pyramid,  with 
4  coats  of  arms,  marks  the  jurisdiction 


of  4  bishoprics — viz.  Tortosa,  Mayorca, 
Valencia,  and  Segorbe. 

The  good  road  continues   winding 
through  hills,  amid  vines,  carob-trees, 
and  aromatic  shrubs,  to  Nules,  a  town 
of  2500  souls,  fortified  with  towers  and 
walls,  with  regular  streets  and  gates. 
Villa  Real  was  built  by  Jaime  I.  as  a 
"  royal  villa  "  for  his  children.    The 
octagon  tower  of  the  tasteless  Parro^usa 
is  remarkable.   After  crossing  the  Mil- 
lares  by  a  noble  bridge,  built  in  1790, 
we  reach  Castellon  de  la  Plana,  of  **  the 
plain,"  so  called  because  Jaime  I.,  in 
1233,  removed  the  town  from  the  old 
Moorish  position,  which  was  on  a  ris- 
ing ^  a  L.  to  the  N.      Inn,  decent, 
Farador  del  Leon,      This    flourishing 
place,  in  a  garden  of  plenty,  is  fed  by 
an  admirable  acequia,  and  very  unin- 
teresting.    Pop.  15,000.    Here  Ribalta 
was   bom   in    1551.      The    churches 
and    convents    once    contained    some 
of  his  finest  works.    There  is  some 
talk   about   a  provincial  Museo.      In 
the   Sangre,   a   church    disfigured   by 
modern  stucco,  some  of  these  paintings 
were  abandoned  to  dust  and  decay. 
The  Sepulcro  is  so  called  from  a  tomb 
at  the  high  altar  which  was  sculptured 
by  angels.     In  the  modernised  Parro- 
quia,  which  has  a  good  Gothic  portal 
and  tower,  is  a  "  Purgatory  "  by  Ri- 
balta.    The   Torre  de  las  Campanas  is 
an  octagon,  260  feet  high,  and  built  in 
1591-1604.    These  towers  or  belfries 
are  very  common  in  Arragon  and  Ca- 
talonia, to  which  we  are  approaching ; 
indeed,  the  towns,  peasants,  and  pro- 
ducts along  this  route  are  very  like 
oue  another.    This  place  may  be  made 
the  head-quarters  of  the  naturalist,  who 
hence  can  make  excursions  to  the  hilly 
group  Las  Santas,  to  Peua  Golosa,  the 
highest  knoll,  and  the  nucleus  of  the 
chain,  and  to  Espadan,  where  mines  of 
copper,  cinnabar,  lead,   &c.,  abound. 
The  chief  mineral  baths  are  at  Villa- 
creja  (3  L.  from   Nules).    There  is  a 
statistical   Memoria  of  Castellon  de  la 
Plana,  by  Santillan,  1843.   The  district 
was  much  impoverished  during   the 
Carlist  civil  war. 

The  lover  of  rustic  fetes  should  at- 
tend, the  3rd  Sunday  in  Lent,  the 
pilgrimage  to  S^*  M*^'  Madalena,  on  a 
hill  1  L.  E. ;    a  grand  procession 

s  2 


188 


ROUTE  42. — PEXISCOLA — BEXICARLO — VINAROZ.  Sect.  V. 


made  to  the  site  of  the  old  town.  A 
Porrat^ov  Fair  is  then  and  there  held  at 
noon,  and  Gayates,  illuminated  cy- 
presses, carried  at  night.  The  whole  is 
very  Pagan  and  picturesque.  The  Ec- 
clesiologist  may  visit  the  Cneva  Santa, 
near  the  Alcublas ;  the  Carthusian 
Vail  de  Crista  J  near  Altura,  and  the 
Bernadine  convent  at  Benifasd,  built  in 
1233  by  Jaime  I.,  and  where  Cabrera 
spent  the  summer  of  1834. 

The  road  now  passes  the  aromatic 
spurs  of  the  PeJia  Golosa  hills,  emerg- 
ing near  Cabanes  (3  L.),  in  its  pesti- 
ferous undrained  marshes.  Near  Oro^ 
2)esa,  whose  fine  castle  was  dismantled 
by  the  French,  are  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  arch.  Traversing  the  plains 
of  Torreblanca,  we  reach  Alcald  de 
Gishertf  a  tortuous  town  with  a  fine 
Parroquia,  which  has  a  classical  portal 
and  a  good  belfry  of  masonry,  erected 
in  1792.  On  emerging  from  a  gorge 
of  hills,  the  promontory  of  Pehiscolay 
with  its  square  castle  on  the  top,  ap- 
pears to  the  rt,  looking  like  an  island 
or  a  peninsula. 

Peniscola,  Peninsula  (Pop.  1500),  is 
a  miniature  Gibraltar ;  it  rises  out  of 
the  sea,  inaccessible  by  water,  about 
240   ft.   high.     It  is  connected  with 
the  land  by  a  narrow  strip  of  sand, 
which  sometimes  is  covered  by  the 
waves.    It  surrendered  to  Jaime   I., 
who  ceded  it  to  the  Templars,  a  por- 
tion of  whose  church  yet  remains.   At 
their  dissolution  it  was  given  to  the 
order  of  Montesa.    Here  Pope  Luna, 
Benedict  XIII.,  took  refuge  after  he 
was  declared  schismatic  by  the  Council 
of  Constance,  and  from  Dec.  1,  1415, 
to  Jan.  29,  1423,   surrounded  by  his 
petty  conclave  of  4  cardinals,  fulmi- 
nated furious  bulls  against  his  enemies. 
His  tower.  La  Torreta,  was  destroyed 
by   the   French    bombardment,   with 
much  of  the  town,  which  has  never  re- 
covered.    Peniscola  is  supplied  with  a 
fountain  of  fresh  water,  the  one  thing 
wanting  to  Gibraltar.     There  is  a  sin* 
gular  aperture    in  a   rock,    through 
which  the  sea  boils  up  ;  which  is  still 
called  El  Bufador  del  Papa,     Pefiiscola 
is  a  miserable  place.     It  is  a  plaza  de 
armas.      Wanting  in   everything  the 
*"~>ck  is  girdled  with  battlements,  and 
^as  much  strengthened  for  Philip 


II.  in  1578  by  his  Italian  engineer 
Antonelli.  It  was  scandalously  be- 
trayed to  the  French  in  Feb.  1810. 
One  Pedro  Garcia  Navarro  was  ap- 
pointed governor  by  Blake,  because 
anti  -  English !  with  whom  Suchet 
opened  a  correspondence  and  bought 
the  fortress,  as  Soult  purchased  Bada- 
joz  of  the  scoundrel  governor  Imaz: 
this  Navarro  was  then  made  a  member 
of  the  French  Legion  of  Honour  !  All 
this  is  blinked  by  Madoz,  xii.  795. 

Benicarloy   Pop.  6000,  is  a   walled 
town,  with  a  ruined  castle  and  a  sort 
of  fishing-port   called  el  grao,  but  is 
miserable  amid  plenty ;  being  a  resi- 
dence of  poor  agriculturists,  the  streets 
are  like  farm-yards.    The  ch.  has  its 
octangular  tower.    This  district  is  re- 
nowned   for    red    and    full-flavoured 
wines,  which  are  exported  by  Cette 
and  the  Languedoc  canal  to  Bordeaux 
to  enrich  poor  clarets  for  the  English 
market :  the  liquor,  when  new,  is  as 
thick  as  ink,  and  deserves  its  familiar 
appellation,  "  black  strap ;"  it  is  much 
used  to  concoct  what  the  trade  call 
curious  old  port.     Much  bad  brandy  is 
also  made,  and  sent  to  Cadiz  to  doctor 
up  worse  sherry.     During  the  vintage 
the  mud  of  these  towns  is  absolutely  red 
with  grape-husks,  and  the  legs  of  the 
population  dyed  from  treading  the  vats. 
Nothing  can  be  more  dirty,  classical, 
and   unscientific  than  the  modus  ope- 
randi.   The  torcular,  or  press,  is  rudely 
classical ;    the   filth    and    negligence 
boundless ;  but  everything  is  trusted  to 
the  refining  process  of  Nature's  fer- 
mentation,   for  "  there  is  a  divinity 
that  shapes  our  ends,  rough-hew  them 
how  we  will."    The  town  was  much 
battered  by  Cabrfera,  w^ho  took  it  in 
1838. 

Vinardz:  Parador,  inn.  This  busy 
old  seaport  on  theCervol  has  crumbling 
walls  and  an  amphibious  population  of 
some  8500  souls,  half-peasant  half- 
sailor.  The  sturgeon  and  lampreys  are 
excellent.  In  the  Palacio  here  the  Due 
de  Vendome,  the  descendant  of  Henry 
IV.,  and  a  caricature  of  his  virtues 
and  vices,  died  of  gorging  the  rich  fish 
—a  death  worthy  of  a  man  whose 
habits  were  only  fit  for  the  pen  of  a 
St.  Simon  or  a  Swift.  Philip  V.  re- 
moved to  the  Escorial  the  body  of 


Valencia, 


ROUTE  42. — MORELLA — ^SAN  CARLOS. 


O 


89 


Vendome,  to  whom  he  owed  his  throne ; 
and  Villa  Viciosa  in  some  degree  re- 
deemed the  crushing  defeat  which' 
Vendome  had  received  from  MarlbO' 
rough  at  Oudenarde.  The  bay  is  open 
and  unsafe;  the  palms  are  Oriental; 
and  the  Chalupas  truly  picturesque 
Mediterranean  craft. 

Morella  (Castra^lia)  the  winter  quar- 
ters of  Sertorius),  lies  9^  L.  to  the  W. 
of  Vinaroz,  through  La  Jaua  3^  L.    It 
is  the  hilly  capital  of  its  hilly  partido, 
and,  being  on  the  frontier  of  Arragon 
and  Valencia,  becomes  an  important 
fortress  in  war-time;    indeed,  at  all 
times  the  intricate  broken  metal  and 
mineral-pregnant  Maestrasgo   is  a  fa- 
vourite lair  for  facciosos  of  all  kinds. 
Here  the  climate  and  vegetation  are  no 
longer  those  of  the  warm  plains,  and  the 
people  are  wild,  rude  peasants.    Morella 
is  a  scrambling  half-ruined  city  of  5000 
souls,  with  steep  streets,  picturesque 
ravines,  and  Moorish  walls  and  towers; 
it  rises  up  in  tiers  to  the  point  of  the 
hill,  which  is  coroneted  by  its  rock- 
built  castle,  apparently  impregnable,  in 
which  the  Moorish  tower  de  Zeloquia 
still  remains,  although  much  knocked 
about  in  the  civil  wars.     Morella  has  a 
noble  aqueduct.  The  quire  in  the  Tglesia 
Mayor,  built  in  1317,  is  singular,  being 
raised  on  arches  and  pillars  ;  thus  the 
general  view  is  not  cut  up ;  the  clergy 
ascend  by  a  curious  staircase  which 
winds  round  a  column.     A  picture  of 
Jaime  offering  a  bit  of  the  true  cross,  is 
here  attributed  to  Ribalta.     The  inte- 
rior effect  has  been  injured  by  raising 
the  pavement,  and  the  churrigueresque 
altar  mayor.     This  strong  town   sur- 
rendered to  Suchet  after  the  fall  of  Me- 
quinenza,  without  even   the   shadow 
of  a  defence.     Morella  was  the  chief 
hold  of  Cabrera,  who  scaled  the  castle 
by  ropes  furnished  by  a  partisan  within, ' 
on  the  night  of  25th  Jan.  1838,  and 
here  afterwards  twice  beat  back  the 
Christinos  under  Oroa  and  Pardinas, 
and  was   made  Conde  de  Morella  in 
consequence.    It  was  taken  in  1 840  by 
Espartero,  a  magazine  having  blown 
up  accidentally,  t.  e,  a  matter  of  course 
almost  in  Oriental  and  Spanish  citadels. 
The  Morellians  have  a  Valencian  love 
for  religious  melodrames  and  proces- 
sions ;  that  to  the  Virgen  de  Vallivena, 


every  6th  year,  the  first  Saturday  in 
May,  is  fanatically  picturesque. 

Leaving  Vinardz,  and  crossing  the 
Ceniaby  a  fine  bridge  built  by  Charles 
IV.,  Catalonia  is  entered,  as  the  harsh 
dialect  and  red  woollen  caps  announce. 
This  is  the  district  of  the  "  truces 
Iberi,"  the  most  ferocious  of  ancient 
Spaniards :  nor  are  they  much  changed ; 
the  dangerous  road  to  Amposta  is  in- 
famous in  robber-storv.  The  traveller 
will  pass  the  2  ruae  stone  crosses 
where,  Oct.  30,  1826,  the  murder  was 
committed  of  which  the  **  Young  Ame- 
rican," Mr.  Slidell— the  Commodore 
Mackenzie  of  the  brig  Somers,  and 
mutiny  execution— gave  such  a  true 
and  affecting  account.  The  poor  lad 
was  named  Ventura  Ferran,  and  was 
killed  with  28  stabs,  "  each  a  death  to 
nature.*'  Carlos  Nava,  the  Mayoral, 
had  his  brains  beaten  out  with  a  stone : 
the  culprits  were  3  vile  Eateros  or 
footpads. 

San  Carlos  de  la  Rdhita  was  built  by 
Charles  III.    The  road  continues  to 
coast  the  beach,  with   carob-planted 
hills  to  the  1.,  and  the  Salinas,  or  port 
de  los  AlfaqueSf  to  the  rt.     These  are 
the  **  chops"  of  the   Ebro,  Al-fakk 
Arabic^,  a  jaw.    A  much-wanted  canal 
is  destined  to  connect  the  river  with  the 
sea,  for  its  natural  mouth  is  dangerous, 
from  a  long  reef  and  sand-bank.     A 
fine  road  leads  to  Amposta^  a  miserable, 
aguish,  fever   and  mosquito-plagued 
port  on  the  Ebro,  with  some  1000  sal- 
low souls.    The  Ebro,  which  eats  its 
turbid  way  through  these  levels,  is  the 
largest  of  the  rivers  which  flow  east- 
ward in  the  Peninsula.    It  rises  in  the 
valley  of  Reinosa,  meanders  in  a  tortu- 
ous direction  through  the  basin  be- 
tween  the  Pyrenean    and    Idubedan 
chains,    and    disembogues    by   many 
mouths  into  the  Mediterranean,  after 
a  course  of  some  1 23  L.,  and  fed  by  1 50 
tributaries.      A  communication   with 
the  Atlantic  by  means  of  a  canal  has 
been  contemplated  between  this  river 
and  the  Duero.    The  Ebro  is  the  IjSu^ 
Ififi^os,  the  Iberus,  Hiberus  of  the  an- 
cients, a  name  in   which  Spaniards, 
who  like   to  trace  their  pedigree  to 
Noah,  read  that  of  their  founder  Heber. 
Bochart  considers  the  word  to  signify 
the  boundary/'  /6ra,  just  as  it  is  uf 


it 


390 


ROUTE  42. — ^HOSPITALET — CAMBRBLS — ^TARRAGONA.        Sect.  V. 


t> 


in  the  sense  of  the  ''  other  side "  in 
Genesis  xiv^.  13;  and  this  river  was, 
in  fact,  long  the  boundary ;  first,  be- 
tween the  Celts  and  Iberians,  and  then 
between  Romans  and  Carthaginians. 
Others  contend  that  this  riyer  gave  the 
name  to  the  district,  Iheria :  Iber,  Aber, 
Hebro,    Havre— signifying  in   Celtic 
"  water."    Thus  the  CelUlber  would 
be,  the  Celt  of  the  River.    Humboldt, 
however,  whose  critical  etymology  is 
generally  correct,  considers  all  this  to 
be  fanciful,  and  is  of  opinion  that  the 
aboriginals  gave  this  primitive  name 
to  the  river.     It  formed,  in  the  early 
and  uncertain  Roman  geography,  the  di- 
visional line  of  Spain,  which  was  parted 
by  it  into  Citerior  and  Ulterior ;  when 
the   Carthaginians    were  finally  sub- 
dued, this  apportionment  was  changed. 
As  it  is  the  good   fortune  of   most 
foreign  rivers  to  be  made  navigable  by 
British  skill  and  enterprise,  whose  steam 
first  civilised  the  Seine,  the  Rhine,  and 
the  Danube,  so  no  end  of  schemes  are  in 
the  air  to  render  the  Ebro  navigable 
with  English   capital  and  workmen. 
It  was  surveyed    in   May,   1846,  by 
Messrs.  Donkin  and  Pope,  with  a  view 
of  improving  its  navigation,  &c.   They 
built  a  boat  at  Logrono^  which,  when 
launched,    astonished  the  natives  as 
much  as  the  barco  incantado   of  Don 
Quixote  did  in  the  same  place. 

There  is  some  talk  of  the  road  from 
Valencia  to  Barcelona  being  carried 
round  by  Tortosa  ;  thus  the  aangerous 
and  often  difficult  ferry  of  Amposta 
would  be  avoided.  Meantime  nothing 
is  done ;  the  coast,  in  spite  of  ship- 
wrecks, has  no  lighthouse ;  the  road  to 
Tortosa  (2  L.)  is  almost  impracticable ; 
and  the  canal  to  Alfaques,  although 
begun  by  Charles  III.,  is  not  yet 
finished.  After  crossing  the  Ebro  the 
road  continues  over  a  mosquito-infested 
plain.  Tortosa  is  soon  seen  to  the  1., 
and  the  sea  is  approached  aniid  gorges 
of  rocky  hills.  The  coast  and  villages 
are  defended  against  sea-pirates  by 
towers.  The  costume  of  the  women 
changes:  many  protect  their  arms  from 
the  plague  of  flies  by  a  sort  of  mitten, 
or  rather  a  Valencian  stocking  without 
feet.  Their  earrings  are  truly  Moorish, 
^wftqd  so  heavy  that  they  are  suspended 
a  thread  round  the  ear:   during 


meals,  maid-servants,  with  fiags  made 
of  the  palmitOy  or  with  fans  painted 
with  flowers  and  silvered  handles, 
drive  away  the  flies.  These  are  the 
classical  muscaria  —  the  original  fiein, 
and  arc  described  by  Martial  (xiv.  67), 
and  such  are  the  Mandsheh  of  the 
Arabs. 

Approaching  Perelldy    the  unculti- 
vated plains  are  covered  with  aromatic 
herbs;    after  which  a   gentle  ascent 
leads  to  the  gorge,  or  "  Coll  de  Bala* 
guer'*  a  notorious  robber  lair.     The 
Barranco  de  la  fforca,  the  "  ravine  of 
the  gibbet,"  connects  the  vocation  with 
its  end.    Above,  on  an  eminence,  is  a 
hermitage  dedicated  to  N'uestra  Senora 
de  la  Aurora:  the  view  is  charming. 
Fort  San  Felipe,  the  key  of  the  gorge, 
was  taken  from  the  French  by  some 
English  sailors,   June  7,  1813.     The 
locality, landand  sea,  is  highly Salvator- 
Rosa-like,  until  the  road  emerges  into 
a  cultivated  plain,   ffospitalet,  so  called 
because   founded    by  an    Arragonese 
prince  for  the  reception  of  way-worn 
pilgrims,  is  strengthened  with  a  square 
and  machicolated  tower.      Now   the 
vineyards  recommence,  and  continue 
to  ft-mge  the  coast  for  30  L.    The  red 
wines  are  strong,  the  muscadels  deli- 
cious,   the    brandy  true    aguadiente, 
ardiente,  %. «.,  fiery :  during  the  time  of 
the  slovenly  vintage,  all  these  villages 
are  redolent  with  wine,  and  stained 
with  the  blood  of  the  grape.     Cambrils 
is  a  vinous  town,  Pop.  2000 ;  here  the 
palm  and  aloe  flourish.     It  was  sacked 
m  1711  by  the  troops  of  Philip  V., 
under  the  cruel  Marquis  de  los  Velez. 
Approaching  Villa  Seca,  the  busy  town 
01  Reus  sparkles  to  the  1.,  while,  in 
front,  Tarragona  lords  it  over  its  fertile 
cam/>o,— seated  on   a  rock-built  emi- 
nence, with  tiers  of  wall  and  bastion 
rising  one   above  another,  while  the 
cathedral  seems  the  donjon-keep  of 
the  imposing  outline.    I'he  shipping 
come  close   under  the  not  over-safe 
mole  to  the  rt. ;   while  the  aqueduct 
connects  the  mass  with  the  Fuerte  del 
Olivo  on  the  other  side.    Passing  the 
Francoli,  either  through  it  or  over  a 
narrow  Moorish-looking  bridge,  Tar- 
ragona is  entered  by  the  modem  gate 
of  San  Carlos.    There  is  a  tolerable 
1  Meson  in  the  Calle  de  San  Carlos, 


Catalonia, 


(     391     ) 


SECTION  VI. 


CATALONIA. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Principality ;  Character  of  the  Country  and  Natives,  their  Commerce 
and  Smuggling ;  History ;  and  best  Authors  to  consult. 


ROUTE  43.— AMP08TA  TO  FtlAOA 

Tortosa;  Mequinenza. 


P*ge 
396 


ROUTE  44. — TORT08A  TO  TARBA^ 

GONA 399 

TARRAGONA 400 

Betu  and  Poblet •■•..  405 

ROUTE  45. — TARRAGONA  TO  BAR- 
CELONA     406 

Arbos;  Ordal. 

BARCELONA 408 

ROUTE    46. — BARCELONA   TO    UR- 

GEL 418 

llonserrat;  Manresa;  Cardona;  Urgel. 

ROUTE  47. — URGEL  TO  MONTLUI8    428 
Puigoerdii. 


Page 
ROUTE  48. — ^URGEL  TO  TARASCON    429 

ROUTE  49. — URGEL  TO  BONAIGUA   430 

ROUTE  50. — URGEL  TO  GERONA.  .    430 
Bipoll;  Vkh. 

ROUTE  51. — BARCELONA  TO   PER- 

PINAN 431 

Hostalrich. 

ROUTE  52. — BARCELONA  TO  GE- 
RONA   432 

Mataro ;  Gterona ;  La  Bispal. 

ROUTE  53. — GERONA  TO  ST.  LAU- 
RENT   435 

ROUTE  54. — GERONA  TO  PERPINAN  436 

Figaeras. 

ROUTE  55.--FIOCBRA8  TO  ROSAS  .    43S 


The  most  interesting  Routes  are  46,  and  those  in  the  Pyrenees.  The  &>ring8  and  Autumns 
are  delicious  on  the  coast ;  but  the  mountain  districts  should  only  be  visited  in  Summer.  Barce- 
lona and  still  more  Valencia  are  excellent  winter-quarters  for  invalids. 


The  principality  of  Catalonia — Catalunaf  Gothalunia — constitutes  the  north- 
eastern comer  of  the  Peninsala :  in  form  triangular,  with  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  for  the  base,  it  is  bounded  to  the  N.  by  the  Pyrenees,  W.  by  Arragon,  S. 
by  Valencia.  It  contains  about  1000  square  L.,  and  a  population  exceeding  a 
million,  and  increasing.  The  sea-board  extends  about  68  L.  The  coast,  aner 
the  bay  of  Rosas,  opens  to  the  S.,  but  is  destitute  of  cood  harbours.  This  is  a 
province  of  mountains  and  plains.  The  former  to  the  N.W.  are  coyered  with 
snow,  the  leader  hills  with  wood,  the  valleys  with  verdure,  and  each  is  watered 
by  its  rivulet.  This  barrier  between  Spain  and  France  is  intersected  by  pic- 
turesque and  tangled  tracts,  known  to  the  smuggler.  One  high  road  by  Gerona 
passes  into  France :  the  only  others  run  to  Zaragoza  and  Valencia.  A  new 
Carretera  is  contemplated  from  Barcelona  to  Madrid,  by  Mora  de  Ebro  and 
Molina  de  Aragon,  by  which  a  distance  of  100  miles  will  be  saved.  There  is 
much  talk  of  railroads — the  thing  wanting  to  this  country.    Catalonia  is  tb^ 


392  CATALONIA — CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.  Sect.  VI. 

Lancashire  of  Spain,  and  Barcelona  is  its  Manchester.    Besides  being  wholesale 
manufacturers,  the  Catalans  are  amongst  the  best  retail  tradesmen,  innkeepers, 
and  carriers  of  the  Peninsula,  indeed,  **  Vamos  al  Catalan  *'  is  equivalent  in 
many  places  to  going  to  a  shop.    The  transport  of  bales  has  raised  up  a  tribe 
of  CileseroSf  C  irreteros,  and  Arrieros,  as  well  as  of  Venteros,  at  whose  taverns 
they  put  up:  long  habits  of  traffic  have  accustomed  them  to  the  road,  its 
wants  and  accommodations.    The  diligence  system  of  Spain  commenced  here. 
The  principal  rivers  empty  themselves  into  the  Mediterranean,  the  Fluvia 
near  Fij^ueras,  the  Ter  near  Gerona,  the  Llobregat  near  Barcelona,  and  the 
Francoli,  near   Tarragona,  but  the  Ebro  is  the  grand  natural  aorta,  how- 
ever little  use  has  been  made  of  it.    The  Cenia  divides  this  province  from 
Valencia  and  the  tierra  caliente,  or  the  hot  zone,  which  extends  to  the  S.E. 
from  Andalucia.     The  climate  and  productions  now  -vary  according  to  the 
elevations :   the  hills  are  cold  and  temperate,  the  maritime  strips  warm  and 
sunny  ;  hence  the  botanical  range  is  very  great ;  but  whether  climate  or  soil 
be  favourable  or  not,  the  industry  and  labour  of  the  Catalan  surmounts  most 
difficulties,  and  the  terraced  rocks  are  forced  to  yield  food,  de  las  piedras  sacan 
p  nieSf  while  in  the  valleys,  by  patience,  the  mulberry-leaf  becomes  satin.     The 
Catalans  are  the  richest  of  Spaniards,  because  they  work  and  produce  the  most. 
The  Ta.Tagona  district,  as  in  the  days  of  Pliny,  furnishes  wines,  which,  when 
rancios,  or  matured  by  age,  ar«  excellent ;  the  best  are  those  of  BenicarlSy 
and  the  delicious  sweet  malvoisies  of  Sitges.    Nuts,  commonly  called  Barce- 
lona nuts,  are  also  a  great  staple.     The  algarrobi,  or  carob-pod,  is  the  usual 
food  for  animals,  and  sometimes  for  men.    The  cereal  productions  which, 
except  near  Urgel,  are  deficient,  are  supplied,  together  with  cattle,  from 
Arragon.     The  abundance  of  sea-fish,  however,  compensates ;  and  this  pursuit 
renders  the  Catalans  some  of  the  best  sailors  of  Spain.    The  principality 
abounds  in  barrilla,  especially  near  Tortosa.     The  geology  of  Catalonia,  ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Pratt,  is  characterised  by  a  series  of  ridges  running  N.E.  and 
S.W.,  parallel  with  the  coast.    Towards  the  N.E.  they  are  interfered  with  by 
intrusive  rocks  of  granite,  porphyry,  and  lava,  and  frequently  disturbed  at  other 
parts  of  their  course.    The  oldest  sedimentary  rocks  are  chiastolite  schists, 
resting  on  granite.    On  these  repose  mountain  limestone,  with  associated  coal- 
beds,  and  red  marly  sandstone,  with  rock-salt.     Limestone  with  oolitic  fossils, 
near  Figueras,  is  associated  with  the  above  rocks,  and  in  a  district  that  has  been 
laid  down  as  cretaceous,  on  the  maps  of  the  French  geologists.    The  tertiary 
rocks  are  of  great  extent  and  interest.     Ridges  formed  of  hills  of  nummulitic 
rocks  occur  at  Gerona,  Vich,  Caldas,  and  Villa  Franca,  respectively.     Mio- 
cene tertiary  deposits  are  found  near  Barcelona ;  whilst  Rosas,  Villa  Nueva, 
Manresa,  Solsona,  and  Urgel  are  situated  on  tracts  of  younger  tertiaries.   Mar- 
bles and  minerals  are  found  in  the  mountains,  with  jaspers  and  alabasters, 
and  the  finest  at  Tortosa  and  Cervera.     Iron  is  plentiful  in  the  Pyrenees,  and 
coal  at  RipoU  and  Tortosa.    The  salt-mountain  of  Cardona  is  quite  unique. 
There  are  eight  cathedral  towns,  of  which  Tarragona,  the  metropolitan,  and 
Barcelona,  are  the  most  interesting.    Commercial  Catalonia  has  never  pro- 
duced much  art  or  literature.     Among  the  objects  best  worth  seeing  are  the 
Pyrenees,  the  salt-mines  of  Cardona,  the  convent  of  Montserra-t,  and  the  town 
and  antiquities  of  Tarragona.    The  ecclesiastical  architecture  partakes  more 
of  the  Norman  Gothic  than  is  usual  in  Spain. 

The  Catalans  are  neither  French  nor  Spaniards,  but  a  distinct  people,  both 
in  language,  costume,  and  habits ;  indeed,  their  roughness  and  activity-  are 
enough  to  convince  the  traveller  that  he  is  no  longer  in  high-bred,  indolent  Spain. 
Your  republican  who  thinks  rudeness  a  proof  of  equality  and  independence, 
inspires  every  well-bred  gentleman  with  a  desire  to  have  as  little  to  do  with 
him  as  possible.  Children  of  the  Celtiberian,  they  sigh  after  their  former 
independence,  their  patriotism  is  most  "  parochial  *'  and  local.     Catalonia,  with 


Catalonia,  commerce  and  smuggling.  893 

its  Cleons  in  calico,  and  Catalines  in  cotton,  is  the  strength  and  weakness  of 
Spain ;  and  no  province  of  the  unamalgamating  bundle  which  forms  the  con- 
ventional monarchy  de  las  Espailas  hangs  more  loosely  to  the  crown  than  this 
classical  country  of  revolt,  which  is  ever  ready  to  fly  off.  Rebellious  and  re- 
publicans, well  may  the  natives  wear  the  blood-coloured  red  cap  of  the  much- 
prostituted  name  of  Liberty !  Their  murders  of  prisoners  during  the  civil  wars 
were  frightful.  The  Patuleoy  or  plcbs,  wore  gridirons  k  la  San  horenzo,  and 
cried,  Madrdos  d  lapoela  I  Moderates,  to  the  frying-pan  !  Others,  to  show  their 
Voltairian  progress,  dragged  images  of  Christ  about,  with  ropes  on  the  neck : 
Catalonia,  the  perpetual  governmental  difficulty,  is  the  spoiled  child  of  the  Pepin- 
sular  family,  to  which,  although  th^  most  wayward  and  unruly,  the  rest  of  the 
brood  are  sacrificed.  Taken  by  themselves  the  Catalonians  are  frugaj,  indusr 
trious,  honest,  and  rough  diamonds.  Powerfully  constituted  physically,  strong, 
sinewy,  and  active,  patient  under  fatigue  and  privation,  brave,  daring  and 
obstinate,  and  preferring  to  die  rather  than  to  yield,  they  form  the  n^w 
material  of  excellent  soldiers  and  sailors,  and  have,  when  well  commapded, 
proved  their  valour  and  intelligence  by  sea  and  land.  The  Catalonian3, 
under  the  Arragonese  kings,  during  the  13th  century,  took  a  great  lead  in 
maritime  conquest  and  jurisprudence,  nor  was  trade  ever  thought  here  to 
be  a  degradation,  until  the  province  was  annexed  to  the  proud  Castiles, 
when  the  first  heavy  blow  was  dealt  to  its  prosperity.  Then  ensued  the  con? 
stant  insurrections,  wars,  and  military  occupations,  which  crushed  peace-Joving 
commerce.  To  these  succeeded  the  French  invasion,  and  the  loss  of  the  S, 
American  colonies.  The  former  export  trade  has  consequently  dwindled  down, 
with  the  exception  of  Cuba,  to  the  home  market,  and  even  there  it  is  met  by 
the  competition  with  Frapce  and  England.  Meantime,  Catalonia  is  to  France 
what  Gibraltar  is  to  England,  the  inlet  of  contraband  goods :  "  eyerybody 
smuggles  here,"  which  no  government,  althoiigh  perfectly  aware  of  the  fact, 
has  been  able  or  has  dared  to  prevent.  The  plea  of  "  protecting  the  nascent 
industry," — "  encouraging  infant  mf^ufactures  of  the  country, ' — is  a  farce  ; 
the  manufactures  of  Catalonia  i^re  very  much  the  blind  by  which  prohibited 
goods  are  clandestinely  introduced.  This  Atlas,  which  pretends  to  carry  all 
the  cotton  of  Spain  on  its  back,  cannot  supply  wares  for  one-third  of  the 
national  consumption.  If  the  number  of  spindles  alleged  to  e^ist  in  this 
province  were  jtrue,  Spain  ought  to  consume  more  thaii  double  the  raw  cotton 
that  she  really  does.  In  spite  of  this,  their  writers  swagger  about  the  "  fear 
and  jealousy!**  evinced  by  envious  foreigners!  at  the  vigour  infused  in  1832 
to  Catalan  cotton-«^pinning  bv  one  Bonaplata,  a  Bonaparte  in  calico  (Madoz,  i. 
458).  Yet  comparatively  the  home  manufacturer  sluggardises  protected  by 
monopoly,  and  while  the  smuggler  grows  rich  the  treasury  gets  poorer. 

Be  that  as  it  may,  our  trade  with  Barcelona,  the  commercial  capital 
of  Spain,  once  extensive,  now  scarcely  exists  beyond  sending  coal  and 
machinery,  for  the  French  have  completely  ousted  us ;  indeed,  many 
Catalans  are  not  much  more  than  agents  for  the  smuggling  French  goods, 
which  are  frequently  introduced  with  counterfeit  marks,  and  as  if  of  Spanish 
manufacture*  Once  abolish  the  prohibitory  system,  and  both  these  in- 
terests  would  fall  to  the  ground ;  once  open  the  trade,  and  give  a  fair  stage 
and  no  favour,  then  England,  with  her  cheaper  and  better  wares,  must 
get  the  lion's  share :  hence  these  powerful,  rich,  active,  and  well-organised 
interests  oppose  every  mention  of  commercial  treaties  or  alterations  of  tariffs. 
A  Gallo-Catalan  conspiracy  bribes  the  government  commissioners,  tampers 
with  their  reports,  purchases  the  venal  press,  and,  if  all  that  fails,  threatens,  as 
an  ultima  ratiOy  a  rebellion.  The  whole  Peninsula  suffers,  apd  is  pauperised 
and  demoralised  from  these  intrigues;  for  a  sensible  commercial  tariff  is 
the  only  remedy  which  might  drag  this  il^fated  country  from  her  financial 
slough  of  despond.    Such  a  change  would  infinitely  more  benefit  Spain  than 

8  3 


394  CATALONIA — ^HISTORY.  Sect.  VI. 

England :  and  yet  th«  monopolist  opponents  re-echo  the  old  story,  old  as  the 
time  of  Philip  IV.,  that  the  "  golden  trade  "  of  Spain  is  of  vital  importance  to 
England  I  and  that  the  forming  a  commercial  treaty  is  pressed  on  Spain  by 
otir  government,  to  save  our  people  from  absolute  starvation!     This  nonsense — 
taken  for  gospel  in  Spain — is  disseminated  by  legions  of  French  commis  voya- 
gettrs,  gentlemen  who  hate  razors,  truth,  and  soap,  and  who  now  invade  Spain;  for 
to  France  this  commerce  is  indeed  of  vital  importance ;  but  England,  that  "  na- 
tion of  shopkeepers  "  forsooth,  sends  no  travellers  for  commissions,  bribes  no 
newspapers, — nay,  it  would  seem  as  if  Spain's  beggarly  custom  were  beneath  the 
notice  of  our  princely  merchants.     Commerce  and  freedom,  which  usually 
enlighten  mankind,  have  never  extinguished  Catalan  superstition ;  thus  Barce- 
lona alone,  in  179S,  contained  82  churches,  19  convents,  18  nunneries,  besides 
oratories,  etc.  (Ponz,  xiv.  7).     These  fierce  repubUcans  and  defiers  of  the 
sceptre  have  ever  bowed  abjectly  to  the  cowl  and  crosier ;  like  the  Yaleircians, 
while  they  tremble  to  disobey  a  priest-enjoined  form,  they  do  not  scruple  to 
kill  a  man ;  but  their  ancestors  were  the  first  to  deify  their  despot  Augustus, 
while  alive;  and  they  s^t  an  exampl^  of  servility   to  Spaniards,  although 
despised,  even  by  Tiberius,  for  erecting  temples  to  him  (Tac.  An.  i.  78,  iv.  37.) 
Meanwhile,  Catalonia  is  no  particular  place  for  the  man  of  pleasure,  taste,  or 
literature.    The  national  costume,  like  the  painted  stuccoed  houses,  is  rather 
Genoese  than  Spanish.  The  men  wear  long  loose  cloth  or  plush  trousers  of  dark 
colours,  which  come  so  high  up  to  the  armpits  that  they  are  all  breeches  and  no 
body.    Their  jackets  are  very  short,  and  are  hung  in  fine  weather  over  their 
shoulders.    In  winter  they  use  a  sort  of  capote  or  gambotey  which  supplants  the' 
Spanish  capa.    Another  peculiarity  in  the  head-goar  is,  that  they  neither  wear 
the  sombrero  gacho  of  the  S.,  nor  the  montera  of  the  central  provinces,  but  a  gorro 
(gorri  means  red  iu  Basque)  or  red  or  purple  cap,  of  which  the  Phrygian  bonnet 
was  the  type ;  the  end  either  hangs  down  on  one  side  or  is  doubled  up  and 
brought  over  the  forehead,  and  has  a  high-treasonable  Robespierre  look.    The 
wearers  are  fond  of  broils,  are  gross  feeders^  and  given  to  wine,  which  they  often 
drink  after  the  fashion  of  the  Rhytium  and  phaUovitrobolie  vessels  of  antiquity ; 
they  do  not  touch  the  glass  with  their  lips,  but  hold  up  the  porron,  or  round- 
bellied  bottle  with  a  spout,  at  arm*8  length,  pouring  the  contents  into  their 
mouths  in  a  vinous  parabola ;  they  never  miss  the  mark,  while  a  stranger 
generally  inundates  either  his  nose  or  his  neckcloth.    The  women  fit  to  marry 
and  breed  Catalan^  are  generally  on  a  large  scale ;  and,  neither  handsome  nor 
amiable,  they  lack  alike  the  beauty  of  the  Valenciana,  the  gracia  g  aire  of  the 
Andaluza,    The  ordinary  costume  is  a  tight  boddice,  with  a  handkerchief 
mocadoy  or  a  serge  manto  on  the  head.  Their  amethyst  and  emerald  earrings  are 
quite  Moorish,  and  so  large  and  heavy  as  to  be  supported  by  threads  hung  over 
the  ears.    They  speak  a  local,  and  to  most  an  unintelligible  language — a  harsh 
Lemosin,  spoken  with  a  gruff  enunciation.   The  *•  Diccionario  Manual,*  by  Roca 
y  Cerda,  8vo.    Barcelona,  1824,  is  a  useful  interpreter  between  the  Spanish 
and  Catalan.    They  also  have  local  coins,  ardHes,  weights,  and  measures, 
diflFering  from  the  Spanish,  and  perplexing  the  stranger,  and  usually  reckon  by 
pesetas y  not  reals,  which  represent  the  old  lihras  cataianas,  the  French  livres  or 
francs. 

The  history  of  Catalonia  is  soon  told.  The  neighbour,  from  the  earliest 
period,  began  her  aggress?ODS,  and  the  Celtic  Gaul  invaded  and  harassed  the 
Iberian.  The  border  races  at  last  united,  by  a  compromise,  rare  in  the  history 
t)f  rival  neighbours,  into  the  Celtiberian,  wnich,  partaking  of  both  stocks,  in- 
herited the  qualities  of  each,  and  became  the  most  aurivorous,  cruel,  perfi- 
dious, brave,  and  warlike  population  of  the  Peninsula.  Catalonia  was  the 
first  conquest  of  Rome ;  and  here  that  empire,  raised  by  the  sword,  first  fell 
by  the  sword,  for  by  this  province  the  Goths  also  entered  Spain,  and  it  still 
fc^  bears  the  record  in  the  name  Gothalunia.    The  Goths  were  welcomed  by  the 


Catdbma,  history — best  authors.  395 

people  oppressed  by  the  rapine  and  extortion  of  Roman  governors,  and  free  and 
independent  bands  of  Bacaudcs  ovBagaudoB  rose  against  them,  as  they  did  in  oar 
times  against  the  French ;  the  Goths  were  dispossessed  by  the  Moors,  or  rather 
the  Berbers,  the  real  ravagers  of  the  Peninsula.  These  in  due  time  were  beaten 
by  the  Spaniards,  aided  by  the  troops  of  Charlemagne,  whose  principle  was  to 
uphold  all  who  were  enemies  to  the  Kalif  of  Cordova.  When  the  Moors  were 
driven  back  beyond  the  Ebro,  the  reconquered  province  was  divided  into  depart- 
ments or  Vegueriaa,  and  governed  by  deputed  counts.  The  national  liberties 
were  secured  by  a  code  of  Usages,  and  the  people  were  represented  by  local  par- 
liaments or  Universidades,  The  sovereignty  became  hereditary  about  1040,  in 
the  person  of  Ramon  Berenguer,  who  allied  himself  with  the  French  and 
Normans ;  hence  the  introduction  of  their  style  'of  architecture.  Catalonia 
was  united  to  Arragon  in  1137  by  the  marriage  of  Ramon  Berenguer  IV.  wi^ 
Petronila,  the  heiress  of  Ramiro  ei  Monje ;  and  both  were  incorporated  with 
Castile  by  the  marriage  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 

Always  hankering  after  former  independence,  Catalonia  has  never  ceased  to 
be  a  thorn  to  all  its  forei^  possessors.    The  pages  of  history  are  filled  with 
the  outbreaks  of  this  classical  province  of  revolt.    It  rebelled  against  Pedro  III. 
of  Arragon,  in  1277  and  1283;  again  in  1460,  against  Juan  II.,  \ij  espousing 
the  cause  of  his  son  Don  Carlos,  and  afterwards  by  declaring  itself  a  republic, 
which  was  not  suppressed  until  1472.    It  yielded  onl]^  a  surly  allegiance  to  the 
Austrian  dynasty  while  in  vigour ;  but  in  1640,  seizing  on  Philip  IV.'s  infir- 
mly as  its  opportunity,  it  threw  itself  into  the  arms  of  Louis  XIII.,  who  pro- 
-  claimed  himself  Count  of  Barcelona,  taking,  in  1642,  Perpinan,  the  gieat 
object  of  Richelieu,  and  thus  depriving  Spain  of  Roussillon,  her  north-eastern 
bulwark,  at  the  moment  when  she  lost  her  western  in  Portugal.    This  insur- 
rection, put  down  in  1652,  ffa^  renewed  in  1689.    Louis  XIV.,  at  the  pea^^  of 
the  Bidasoa,  1660,  guaranteed  to  Catalonia  her  liberties,  which  his  grand^n 
Philip  V.  abolished  altogether,  having  previously  carried  fire  and  sword  over 
the  ill-fated  province.    Then  was  }aid  on,  as  a  punishment,  a  heavy  income- 
tax,  in  lieu  of  all  other  Spanish  imposts,  but  this,  by  unfettering  commerce, 
proved  to  be  a  saving  benefit,  since  the  native  industry  expanded  once  more. 
In  our  times  there  never  has  been  an  insurrection,  whether  for  the  French  or 
against  them,  whether  for  a  Servile  or  Liberal  faction,  in  which  the  Catalan/s 
have  not  taken  the  lead.    Placed  between  two  fires,  and  alternately  the  dupe 
and  victim  of  Spain  and  Franct,  they  have  no  reivK>n  to  love  their  neighbours, 
although  willing  to  #ide  with  either,  as  suits  their  private  and  local  interests. 
This  has  always  been  a  marked,  and  perhaps  necessary  policy  on  the  Pyrenean 
frontier,  and  is  the  result  of  position.    Deep  and  immortal  is  their  fear  and 
hatred  of  France.     **  NuUe  part  aiUeurs,"  says  even  General  Foy  (iv.  137), 
*'  les  peres  ne  transmettent  auf  enfans  plus  de  haine  contre  les  Fran^ais,  leurs 
voisins.    lis  leur  reprochent  de  les  avoir  entratn^  pendent  le  17™*  si^cle  dans 
les  revoltes  continuelles  contre  }es  Rois  d'Espag^e,  et  de  les  avoir  abandonn^s 
ensuite  au  ressentiment  d'un  m^ltre  outrage."     For  the  last  years  they  may 
seem  friendly  to  their  neighbours,  in  order  to  use  them  in  abetting  their  opposi- 
tion to  free  trade  and  commercial  treaties  with  England.    Our  best  policy  is 
to  leave  them  quietly  alone.    The  French  can  no  more  play  on  the  Catalan 
guitar,  than  the  blundering  meddlers  in  Hamlet  could  govern  the  stops  of  his 
pipe. 

Among  the  best  authorities  on  Catalonia  are  *  Chrot^iqws  de  Espanay  Miguel 
Carbonell,  fol.  Biurcelona,  1547  ;  *  Centvria  o  Historia'  &c..,  Estevan  Barellas, 
1  vol.  folio.  Bare,  1600;  *  Historia  de  los  Condes,  Francisco  Diago,  fbl.  Bare. 
1G03;  *  Chronica,' Geronimo  Pujades,  fol.  Bare.  1609;  or  the  new  edition, 
8  vols. 4to.  Bare.  1829-32 ;  ^Historia*  Bartolome Desclot,  fol. Bare.  1616  ;  < Idea 
del  Frincipado/  Josef  Pellicer  de  Tovar,  8vo.  Antwerp,  1642.  For  Philip  IV.*s 
wars,  the  *  Historia  de  los  Movtmientos,*  by  Francisco  Manuel  de  Melo,  4to. 


306 


ROUTE  43. — A2JrOSTA  TO  FEAGA. 


Sect.  VI. 


Lisboa,  1645,  or  the  Sancha  edition.  Mad.  1808;  '  Discursos,'  Francisco  de 
Gilabert,  4to.  Lerida,  1616 ;  *Sumaridels  Titok,'  Andrea  Bosch,  fol.  Perpinya, 
1628,  in  Catalan  ;  *  Descripcion  de  Catalonia*  Marca,  fol, ;  '  Cristal  de  la  Verdcid,' 
Gab.  Agust  Rius,  4to.  Zar.  1646;  ^ Atroces  Hechos  Franceses*  Luis  de  Cruz- 
amonte,  4to.  1633 ;  and  *  Pasagiost  fatales  del  mando  Frances,'  R.  D.  de  Rocabert, 
Zar.,  4to.  1646;  *  Cataluiia  ilustrada*  Estevan  de  Corbera,  Napoles,  1678: 
*  Au'iles  de  Cataluiia,'  Narciso  Feliu  de  la  Peiia  y  Farell,  3  vols.  fol.  Bare.  1709  ; 
also  the  '  Memoirs  of  Dunlop.'  For  the  wars  of  succession.  Lord  Mahon's  ex- 
cellent history.  For  commercial  history,  *  Memorias  sobre  la  Marina,'  Antonio 
Capmany,  4  vols.  4to.  Mad.  1779-92;  and  *  El  Codigo  o  Libra  del  Consulado,* 


For  Catalan  authors,  consult  *  Memoria  para  una  biblioteca  de  escritores  Catalanes, 
Bare.  4to.  1836,  with  Appendix  by  Juan  Cormenon,  Burgos,  4to.  1840. 


Those  who  enter  Catalonia  from 
Valencia  (Rte.  42)  may,  if  going  to 
Zaragoza,  turn  off  from  Amposta  (p. 
389),  joining  the  Barcelona  high  road 
either  at  Fraga  or  Lerida.  This  cross- 
route  is  scarcely  carriageable ;  it  is 
better  to  ride  it. 


Route  43. — ^Amposta  to  Feaga. 

Tortosa 2 

Jerta 2*  ..      4i 


Pinell 2 

Miravet 2 

Mora  de  Ebro       ...  2 

Asco 2 

Flix 1 

Tayii 3 

Mequinenza    ....  3 

Fraga 3 


6i 
8i 
10* 
12* 
13* 
16* 
19* 
22* 


Ascending  the  banks  of  the  Ebro  we 
reach  Tortosa,  a  picturesque  scramb- 
ling jasper-built  old  town,  placed  on 
a  sloping  eminence,  and  parted  by  a 
cleft  or  barranco ;  Pop.  20,000;  it 
rises  grandly,  with  its  fortified  walls, 
buttressed  old  castle,  and  cathedral, 
over  the  river,  and  has  an  imposing 
look  when  seen  from  the  redoubt  el 
Jiastro,  or  from  the  Eoqiietas  on  the 
opposite  bank.  To  the  1.  is  the  out- 
work Tenaza,  a  suburb,  and  the  castle  ; 
above  are  the  forts  San  Pico  and  Or- 
leans. The  river  front  is  defended  by 
the  bastion  St.  Pedro  and  the  tower 
Gareta.  The  Ebro  is  subject  to  inun- 
dations, and  the  boat-bridge  is  con- 
trived to  meet  these  risings  and  falls. 


A  suspension-bridge  of  silver  might 
have  been  built  for  less  than  what  the 
repairs  have  cost.  So  much  for  Bridge 
Commissioners  all  over  the  world. 
The  city  is  subject  to  inundations  from 
the  Barranco  del  Rastro,  in  spite  of  the 
subterranean  drain  on  a  large  scale. 
As  small  ships  come  up  from  the  Medi- 
terranean, the  quay  has  been  compared 
to  the  Ripa  Grande  of  Rome.  The 
river  higher  up  (2  L.)  ceases  to  be 
navigable  on  account  of  La  Cherta, 
the  fall  of  which  sometimes  is  15  ft., 
and  like  that  of  Old  London  Bridge. 

The posadas  are  ba4*  Tortosa  is  a  dull 
town,  with  narrow  streets,  and  houses 
marked  with  the  local  character  of  soli- 
dity ;  the  territory  around  is  very  fertile 
in  fruit,  wine,  oil,  corn,  and  greeu  herbs, 
as  it  is  watered  with  numerous  norias, 
but  the  irrigation  is  still  ill  managed 
and  inadequate.  Vast  quantities  of 
soda  are  made ;  the  fish  is  excellent, 
especially  the  sturgeon  and  lamprey. 
The  hills  abound  with  coal,  minerals, 
and  marbles,  and  the  magnificent  jas- 
pers of  Tortosa ;  the  montes  reales  pro- 
duce fine  pine-timber.  The  winter 
wild-fowl  shooting  in  the  salt  marshes 
all  the  way  down  the  Ebro  is  first-rate. 
Tortosa,  Dertosa,  an  important  city 
of  the  Ilercaones,  was  called  by  the 
Romans  "  Julia  Augusta  Dertosa."  It 
had  a  mint,  and  the  coins  are  described 
by  Cean  Ber.  *  S.'  30,  and  Florez.  *  M.' 
i.  376.  For  the  history  see  Fsp,  Sag. 
xlii.  ;  Hktoria  de  la  Santa  Ginta,  Fran- 
cisco Martorel  y  de  Luna,  Du°.,  Tortosa, 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  43. — TORTOSA — CATHEDRAL. 


897 


1626.     Tortosa  fidelisimat  Vicente  Mi- 
ravel  y  Forcadell,  4to.  Mad.  1641. 

According    to   Martorell   the   local 
annalist,  Tubal  first  settled  at  Tortosa, 
Hercules  followed,  and  then  St.  Paul, 
whose  local   name  here  is  San  Pan, 
and    who   here    instituted    as  bishop 
Monsenor  Ruf  (Rufus,  Ep.  Rom.  xvi. 
13).     Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  certain 
that  under  the  Moors  Tortosa  became, 
in  the  words  of  the  conqueror,  "  gloria 
populorum  et  decor  universae  terrse," 
and  was  the  key  of  the  Ebro  and  of 
this  coast,  just  as  Almeria  was  in  the 
south.      It  was  besieged  in   809   by 
Louis  Le  D^bonnaire,  son  of  Charle- 
magne, who  was  beaten  off.     He  re- 
turned, however,  in  811,  and  captured 
the  town.     It  was  soon  recovered  by 
the  Moors,  and  became  a  nest  of  pirates, 
and  a  thorn  to  Italian  commerce.  Hence 
Eugenius  III.  proclaimed  a   crusade 
against  it,  and  the  place  was  taken 
ill   1148,  nominally,  by  the  Spaniards 
under  Ramon  Berenguer,  but  in  reality 
by  the  Templars,  Pisans,  and  Genoese, 
who  fought  and  gained  the  battle,  just 
as  they  had  previously  done  at  the  S. 
pirate  port  of  Almeria.   The  Spaniards 
were  in  utter  want  of  everything,  al- 
though   Ramon  had  taken  even   the 
sacred  plate  of  the  churches  of  Barce- 
lona.   The  Moors  made  a  desperate 
attempt,  in  1 149,  and  nearly  succeeded 
in  recapturing  the  town,  for  the  in- 
habitants, reduced  to   despair,  medi- 
tated, like  the  Saguntines,  killing  their 
wives  and  children.     One  husband  re- 
vealed the  plan  to  his  spouse,  who  col- 
lected all  the  women,  and,  encouraged 
by  the  Virgin,  deceived  the  infidels  by 
mounting  the  battlements,   while  the 
men  sallied  forth  and  routed  the  Moors. 
Don  Ramon,  in  consequence,  decorated 
them  with  a  red  military  scarf,  the 
order  of  La  Hacha^  and  considerately 
permitted    the    Amazons    to    receive 
dresses  free  from  duty,  and  at  mar- 
riages to  precede  the  men. 

Tortosa  was  taken  by  the  French 
under  Orleans  (afterwards  the  Regent), 
July  15,  1708,  who  compelled  the  gar- 
rison, in  defiance  of  the  laws  of  civilized 
warfare,  to  enlist  in  the  French  ser- 
vice. In  the  war  of  independence  it 
was  shamefully  surrendered    by  the 


l^che  Conde  de  Alacha  to  Suchet,  Nov. 
2,  1811. 

The  Gothic  cathedral  occupies  the 
site  of  a    mosque    built    in    914   by 
Abdu-r-rahman,  as  a  Cufic  inscription 
preserved  behind  iheSacristia  recorded. 
The  name  of  the  tower,  Almudena,  is 
an  evident  corruption  of  the  Al  Mued- 
din,  or  the  summoner  of  the  faithful  to 
prayers.     The  cathedral  was  dedicated 
to  the  Virgin  in  1158-78  by  the  Bishop 
Gaufredo.    The  chapter  was  formed 
on  a  conventual  plan,  the  canons  living 
in  community  after  the  rules  of  the 
order  of  St.  Augustine ;  this  arrange- 
ment was  confirmed  in  1155  by  Adrian 
IV.  (Breakspeare,  the  English  pope), 
and  the  identical  bull  is  printed  in  the 
Usp.    Sag.    xlii.    303.      The    present 
cathedral,  built  in  1347,  has  a  fine  ap- 
proach,   but    the    principal    classical 
fa9ade,  with  massive  Ionic  pillars,  has 
been  modernised,  and  with  its  heavy 
cornice  is  out  of  character  with   the 
Gothic  interior,  where  also  the  demon 
of  churriguerismo  has  been  at   work. 
The   E.  end  terminates  with  a  semi- 
circular absis.     The   coro    is    placed 
around  the  high  altar,  and  not  in  the 
central  nave,  as  is  more  usual.     The 
fine  Silleria,  with  rich  Corinthian  orna- 
ments, "  poppy -heads,"  and  saints,  was 
carved  by   Cristobal    de    Salamanca, 
1588-93.      The  ancient   pulpits  with 
basso-relievos    deserve    notice.      The 
beautiful  reja  del  coro  was  raised  by 
Bishop   Caspar    Punter,    and    is    en- 
riched  with  jaspers   and   Berruguete 
details.     The  iron  reja  to  the  high  altar 
is   equally  remarkable:    the    modem 
overdone  organs  are  sadly  out  of  cha- 
racter.    The  cathedral  is  full  of  pre- 
cious marbles,  especially'  the  chapel  of 
the   Cinta,  but  the  paintings  on   the 
cupola,  and  the  style  of  architecture, 
are  beggarly,  when   compared  to  the 
materials.    The  baptismal  font  is  said 
to  have  belonged  to  Benedict  XIII., 
who  also  gave  his  golden  chalice  to  the 
chapter.     The  relicario  is  still  rich  in 
sainted  bones,  left  behind  by  Suchet, 
who  only  carried  off  the  gold  and  silver 
mountings.      Observe  in  the  Gapilla  de 
Santa   Candia  the  inscriptions   of  the 
tombs  of  the  4  first  bishops — Gaufredo, 
ob.  1165;   Ponce,  ob.  1193;  Gomba^ 


398 


ROUTE  43. — T0RT08A — ^THE  C3INTA. 


Sect.  TI. 


ob.  1212;  and  Ponce  de  TorreD8j»,  ob. 
1254 :  observe  also  the  tomb  of  Buihop 
Tena.  Look  at  the  portal  leading  to 
the  cloister  and  its  5  stj^tnes,  A  small 
portion,  also,  of  the  ongii^  conventual 
buildings  yet  remains,  j^d  »■  pur^ona 
old  chapel  with  red  and  green  pi)lars, 
Adrian  VI.  was  Bishop  of  Toriosa, 

The  palladium  of  t&e  eathedraJ  aiid 
the  city  is  the  Cinta^  or  ]9iracte*'^ork.- 
ing  girdle,  which  the  Virgin,  attended 
by  St.  Peter  and  St^  Paul^  brought 
down  in  person  from  heaven  in  1 1 78, 
and  delivered  herself  to  9.  priest  wbi>se 
name  and  the  whj  and  wherefore  are 
unknown ;  there  is,  however^  H  poe»i 
on  the  subject  ^n  J!^tin  .ynd  Spanish  by 
Jose  Beltran  y  Ruis.  A  grand  m«^ 
is  performed  to  thi^  Cinta  every  scjcond 
Sunday  in  October^  Th#  gifr,  declared 
authentic,  in  1617,  hj  the  infallible 
Paul  v.,  has  long  worked  miracles, 
especially  in  obstetric  cases.  Thus  in 
the  spring  of  1832  the  Cmta  was  brought 
in  solemn  procession  to  Aranjuez,  in 
order  to  facilitate  the  accouchement  of 
the  two  infantas.  Vocata  partubus 
Lacina  veris  adfuit. 

The  Barbary  Moors  have  a  cannon 
at  Tangiers  by  which  a  Christian  ship 
was  sunk,  and  across  this  their  women 
sit  to  obtain  an  easy  deUverv.  In  all 
ages  and  countries  where  the  science 
of  midwifery  has  made  small  pro- 
gress, some  supernatural  assistance  is 
contrived  for  perils  of  such  inevitable  re- 
currence as  childbirth ;  so  the  panacea 
in  Italy,  the  girdle  of  St.  Margaret, 
became  the  type  of  this  Cinta  of  Tor^ 
tosa,  and  was  resorted  to  by  the  monks 
in  all  cases  of  difficult  parturition.  The 
former  was  supposed  to  benefit  the  sex, 
because  when  the  devil  wished  to  eat  up 
St.  Margaret,  the  Virgin  bound  him 
with  her  sash,  and  he  became  tame  as 
a  lamb.  This  accoucheur  sash  also 
produced  others,  and  in  the  17th  cen- 
tury had  multiplied  so  exceedingly, 
that  a  traveller  affirmed  "  if  all  were 
joined  together,  they  would  reach  all 
down  Cheapside ;"  but  the  natural 
history  of  relics  is  too  well  known  to 
be  enlarged  upon.  The  scholar  will  re- 
member the  Cistus  of  Venus,  the  Cin- 
lulum  of  Claudia  (Lactantius,  Or.  Err. 

^X  and  the  Cinxia,  who  presided 


over  virginal  zones  (Arrobius,  iii.). 
Hallarse  en  Cinta  in  Spanish  is  equi- 
valent to  being  with  child,  enceinte ; 
aeeordinff  to  the  Venerable  Bede  the 
abbess  Eifrida  was  cured  by  the  touch 
of  the  girdle  of  St.  Cuthbert.  This, 
^ike  the  rope  of  St.  Francis,  has  suc- 
ceeded to  the  Cmgtdum  HercyiiSy  which 
Festus  states  aided  the  increase  of 
families  in  antiquity.  The  arms  of  Tor- 
tosn  are  a  castle  and  the  Virgin  stand- 
ing, holding  this  Cinta,  with  the  motto, 
An^paranos  d  ia  aombra  de  tus  alas :  see 
j»lso  Moya,  '  Rasgo'  p.  383.  This 
P9,nacea  fhiled  to  deliver  the  city 
from  Suchet. 

The  Colegio^  founded  in  1362  by 
Bartolome  Ponz,  was  improved  in  1528, 
jind  confirmed  as  a  college  in  1545 : 
the  elegant  cloisters  are  Doric  and 
Ionic,  with  medallions  of  royal  per- 
sonages from  Ramon  Berenguer  down- 
wards, wrought  in  a  fine  Aragonese 
style.  In  the  church  of  San  Juan  is 
the  grand  sepulchre  and  kneeling  figure 
of  Bishop  Juan  Bautista  Veschi,  ob. 
1660 ;  and  a  miracle-working  crucifix. 

Ascend  to  the  ruined  castle,  with  its 
wide  ill-kept  bastions,  moats,  &c.  all 
hors  de  combat ;  the  views  over  the  town 
and  environs  are  splendid.  There  are 
also  some  ancient  Mazmorras,  Visit  the 
Barhaoana  and  moat  near  the  Fuerta  del 
Temple,  where,  Feb.  16, 1836,  the  Christ- 
inist  General  Nogueras,  Mina  readily 
consenting  I  put  to  death,  in  cold  blood, 
the  old  mother  of  Cabrera,  to  revense 
his  defeat  by  her  son.  The  old  lady 
died  like  a  man,  and  was  a  true 
daughter  of  the  former  Amazons  of 
Tortosa,  and  mother  to  brave  sons. 
The  authentic  facts  are  detailed  at  p. 
175  of  the  Ifistoria  de  Cabrera,  by  Da- 
maso  Calbo  y  Rochina  de  Castro,  Mad. 
1845;  a  book  which  none  who  wish 
to  understand  the  internecine  character 
of  Spanish  hostilities  amongst  each 
other  should  ftiil  to  peruse.  The  re- 
collections of  the  ancient  sex  of  Tor- 
tosa might  here,  at  least,  have  saved 
one  female  victim.  Well  said  the  old 
Cid— 

*'  Con  Mugerei  teneis  manos  ! 
Par  ZHot  I  Itravos  CdbcMeros !  *' 

This  unmanly  act  was  received  with 
shouts  of  disgust  in  England,  and  of 


Catatonia, 


ROUTE  44. — TORTOSA  TO  TARRAGONA. 


399 


applause  in  Spain.  Nogueras,  to  quiet 
our  representations,  was  disgraced  pro 
forma  ;  but  the  act  was  lauded  by  the 
press  of  Zaragoza,  whose  national 
guard  petitioned  to  have  the  "  prudent 
and  vigorous**  officer  reinstated  in  com- 
mand, which  he  was;  in  1843  he  was 
the  favourite  popular  candidate  for  the 
representation  of  Madrid,  the  capital, 
and  he  would  well  and  truly  have  re- 
presented the  majority  of  his  consti- 
tuents :  and  the  fond  memory  of  this  ex- 
ploit continues  to  give  such  satisfaction 
to  the  Catalans,  that  Nogueras  was 
elected  in  1851  member  for  Fraga. 

Leaving  Tortosa  the  road  continues 
along  the  basin  of  the  Ebro  to  Mora, 
a  town  of  3500  souls,  which  had  two 
singular  local  tribunals,  called  "Dei 
Bayle,"  of  the  Baili  Bailiff,  and  **  Del 
Prohombre**  of  the  Prudhomme,  grant- 
ed by  Juan  Conde  de  Prades  in  1400. 
They  acted  as  checks  on  each  other, 
for  such  is  the  divide  et  impera  of 
Spain's  distrustful  misgovemors,  Flix 
is  girdled  by  the  Ebro  in  a  bosom  of 
fertility,  liie  irrigation  is  managed 
by  a  canal,  which  is  supplied  by  a  large 
noriay  water-work.  The  corn  of  Ara- 
gon  is  drawn  from  hence  down  the 
river  in  boats  for  Catalonia,  but  the 
Presa  de  Flix  impedes  the  navigation. 
The  new  and  direct  road  from  Barce- 
lona to  Madrid  is  to  pass  through 
Mora  de  Ehro.  There  is  a  good  quarry 
of  stone,  which  was  used  for  the  new 
front  of  the  Tortosa  cathedral.  Me^ 
quinenza,  with  about  1500  souls,  rises 
boldly  over  the  Segre  and  Ebro,  which 
it  commands;  here  is  a  ferry-boat. 
The  irregular  castle,  once  the  palace 
of  the  Marques  de  Aitona,  crowns  the 
steeps ;  inaccessible  except  to  the  west. 
This  fine  specimen,  with  its  towers, 
was  of  ^reat  importance  in  the  War  of 
Succession,  as  forming  a  central  point 
between  L^rida  and  Tortosa.  This  key 
of  the  Ebro  was  besieged  in  May  1811, 
by  General  Musnier,  and  was  defended 
by  Manuel  Carbon  with  1200  men; 
but  on  the  4th  and  5th .  of  June  the 
French  got  into  the  town,  which  they 
sacked  and  burnt,  and  the  castle  capi- 
tulated on  the  8th.  Suchet  the  same 
evening  sent  a  detachment  against 
Morella,  which  surrendered  at  once  in 


the  general  panic.  Mequinenza,  which 
afterwards  protected  Suchet's  retreat, 
was  gained  by  stratagem.  One  Juan 
Van  Halen  deserted  from  the  French, 
bringing  away  their  cipher,  whereby 
forged  orders  were  made  out  by  the 
Baron  de  Eroles ;  thus  the  governors 
of  L^iida,  Mequinenza,  and  Monson 
Were  deceived,  and  the  places  recovered 
from  the  enemy. 

Now  the  road  branches  off,  to  Fi'oga 
3  Li,,  and  to  Lerida,  after  passing  the 
Segre,  7,  through  Aitona,  3  L.  from 
Mequinenza,  For  the  communication 
between  Zaragoza  and  Barcelona,  by 
Fraga  and  Lerida,  see  Rte.  129. 


Route  44. — Toetosa  to  Taeeagona. 

Yenta  de  los  AJos      •     •    2 

Al  Perell6 .    .     .     «    .    3    . .  6 

Hospitalet 3     .       8 

Cambiils 2i    .  lOi 

Reus li    .  12 

Tarragona   .     .      .      . « 2  .  .  14 

There  is  some  talk  of  a  railroad  from 
Tortosa  to  Barcelona.  For  Perello 
see  Rte.  42,  and  Reu&,  p.  405.  The 
best  inns  at  Tarragona  are,  Parador  de 
las  Diligencias,  El  Meson  Nuevo,  and 
Calle  de  St,  Carlos,  Consult  *  Orandezas 
de  Tarragona,*  Luys  Pons  de  Ycart, 
12mo.  Lerida,  1572-73,  the  *J57sp.5'a^.,' 
vols.  xxiv.  XXV. ;  for  the  coinage, 
Florez,  «  Med.*  ii.  579;  and  for  the 
Roman  inscriptions,  Cean  Ber., '  Snm.* 
8.  For  the  antiquities,  Tarragona  monu- 
mental, J,  F.  Albonara,  and  A.  Bo- 
faruU. 

Tarragona,  as  a  residence  for  invalids, 
is  remarkably  healthy  ;  the  air  is  mild, 
but  from  its  great  dryness,  bracing  and 
rather  keen.  There  are  no  standing 
waters,  nor  is  irrigation  employed; 
the  walks  are  excellent,  looking  down 
to  the  sea ;  while  in  various  directions 
on  the  land  side  are  scattered  pine 
woods,  heaths,  and  aromatic  wastes, 
where  the  wild-lavender  and  sweet- 
smelling  shrubs  perfume  the  air  even 
in  mid  winter. 


400 


ROUTE  44. — TARRAGONA. 


Sect.  VI. 


TARRAGONA,  rising  above  the 
Franco! i  and  the  sea,  on  a  lime- 
stone rock  some  760  feet  high,  M^as 
selected  by  the  Phoenicians  as  a 
maritime  settlement,  and  called  Tar- 
cAon,  which  Bochart  interprets,  a 
**  citadel ;"  and  such  ever  has  been, 
and  still  is,  the  appearance  and 
character  of  this  "  Arce  potens  Tar- 
raco."  Conveniently  situated  for  com- 
munication with  Rome,  this  strong 
point  was  made  the  winter  residence  of 
the  PriEtor.  The  fertile  plain  and 
"aprica  littora"  of  Martial  (i.  50, 
21),  and  the  wines  of  "  vitifera  Lale- 
tania,"  the  rivals  of  the  Falernian, 
still  remain  as  described  by  Pliny, 
•  N.  H.'  xiv.  16,  and  Mart  xiii.  118. 
The  brothers,  Publius  and  Cneius 
Scipio,  fiist  occupied  Tarragona,  which 
Augustus  raised  to  be  the  capital,  hav- 
ing wintered  here  (26  B.C.),  after  his 
Cantabrian  campaign  ;  here  he  issued 
the  decree  which  closed  the  temple  of 
Janus.  The  favoured  town  was  inti- 
tulated  "  Colonia  victrix  togata  tur- 
rita,"  togata  being  equivalent  to  im- 
perial, since  the  gens  togata  were  the 
lords  of  the  world.  It  was  made  a  con- 
ventus  juridicuSf  or  audiencia ;  had  a 
mint,  and  temples  to  every  god,  god- 
dess, and  tutelar;  nay,  the  servile 
citizens  erected  one  to  the  emperor, 
"  Divo  Augusto,*'  thus  making  him  a 
god  while  yet  alive.  This  temple  was 
afterwards  repaired  by  Adrian,  and 
some  fragments  in  the  cloisters  of  the 
cathedral  are  said  to  have  belonged  to  it. 
Tat^agona  was  taken  by  the  Goths 
and  became  their  capital.  The  Moors 
under  Tarif,  "  made  of  the  city  a  heap" 
and  the  ruins  remained  uninhabited 
for  4  centuries.  The  metropolitan 
dignity,  removed  by  the  Goths  to  Vich, 
was  restored  in  1089,  to  the  disgust  of 
Toledo,  who  disputes  the  primacy, 
Tarkuna,  or  rather  the  site,  in  1118 
was  granted  by  San  Oldegar,  of  Bar- 
celona, to  Robert  Burdet,  a  Norman 
chief,  a  warrior,  as  his  Norse  name 
Bnrd%  to  fight,  explains.  His  wife, 
Sibylla,  during  her  husband's  absence, 
kept  armed  watch  on  the  walls,  and  beat 
back  the  Moors,  after  which  the  city 
grew  to  be  a  frontier  fortress,  and  no- 
^^ing  more ;  for  Christian  commerce 


centred  at  Barcelona,  while  Moorish 
traffic  preferred  Valencia. 

Tarragona,  in  the  War  of  Succes- 
sion, was  captured  by  the  gallant 
Peterborough.  It  was  invested  by 
Suchet  in  May,  1813,  who  gained  the 
land-key,  the  Monte  OlivOf  by  means  of 
a  traitor.  The  lower  town  was  taken 
June  the  21st,  and  the  upper  on  the 
28th.  The  women  and  children  who 
crowded  to  the  English  boats,  the 
Spaniards  refusing  to  embark  them, 
were  mitraille  by  Suchet,  as  at  Lerida. 
The  horrors  of  the  subsequent  sack 
surpass  anything  recorded.  Suchet 
ordered  and  encouraged  every  atrocity, 
for  with  cold-blooded  premeditation 
he  had  threatened  "  to  intimidate 
Spain  by  the  destruction  of  an  entire 
city,"  and  he  boasted  of  his  horrors. 
See  Southey,  ch.  36 ;  Schepeler,iii.  425; 
and  particularly  the  article  in  the  recent 
*  Diccionnrio  Geografco  *  of  Barcelona. 

The  loss  of  Tarragona  was  chiefly 
owing  to  Spanish  misconduct ;  Campo- 
verde  outside  andContreras  inside  from 
jealousy  had  sent  Sarsfield  away  with 
his  relieving  troops  at  the  most  critical 
moment.  The  disgrace  was  shared 
by  some  English,  for  in  June  Skerrett 
arrived  with  1200  men,  and,  had  they 
been  landed,  Suchet  would  not  have 
dared  even  to  attempt  the  storm;  but, 
according  to  Napier  (xiii.  6),  the 
"  surf,  and  the  enemy's  shot,  and  the 
opinion  of  Doyle  and  Codrington" 
prevailed,  and  the  army  and  navy  of 
England  remained  idle  spectators  of  the 
"  untoward  event."  Tarragona  again 
witnessed  French  success  and  British 
failure;  for  in  1813,  when  the  Duke 
was  advancing  a  conqueror  into  France 
after  Vitoria,  he  ordered  Sir  John 
Murray  to  attempt  Tarragona  by  a 
"  brisk  attack,"  in  order  to  create  a 
diversion  and  prevent  Suchet  from 
marching  to  aid  Soult.  Murray,  with 
14,000  men  and  the  identical  artillery 
which  had  breached  and  won  Badajoz, 
sailed.  May  31,  from  Alicante,  and 
arrived  June  3  before  Tarragona. 
The  citadel  was  defended  by  Bertol- 
letti,  with  only  1600  men.  Time  was 
now  everything,  yet  Murray  pottered 
and  paltered,  and  Suchet  advanced  to 
the  relief;  at  the  first  idle  report  of 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  44. — TARRAGONA. 


401 


which  Murray  raised  the  siege.    The 
indignation  of  the  army  was  so  great 
that  personal   insult   was  offered    to 
him :  he  forthwith  re-emharked  amid 
the  jeers  of  soldiers  and  sailors,  and 
with  such  haste  that  he  left  behind 
him  his  heavy  guns  and  stores,  Adm. 
Hallow  ell  in   vain  haying  begged  a 
delay  only  of  6  hours  to  remove  them ; 
Murray,  unconscious  of  shame,  quietly 
going  to  bed  and  sleep  (Napier,  xxi.  1 ). 
"  The  best  of  the  story  is,*'  said  the 
Duke,  "  that   all  parties  ran   away : 
Maurice  Mathieu  ran  away.  Sir  John 
Murray  ran   away,  so   did   Suchet." 
Murray  made  light  of  his  disgrace, 
and  talked  of  his  guns  as  '*  old  iron,'* 
which  it  was  his  habit  to  abandon,  as 
at   Biar,   and  "  rather   meritorious ;" 
colours,  at  that  rate,  are  but  bits  of 
bunting.     "This  unfortunate  failure'* 
(Desp.,  July  19,  1813)  an  J  the  loss  of 
this  battering-train  "crippled**  all  the 
Duke's  future  "  operations,'*  compelled 
him   to  blockade    instead  of   laying 
siege  to  Pamplona,  and  thus  gave  an 
opening  to  Suchet  to  advance  on  his 
V   fank  in  Airagon;   and  had  he  been 
free  from  jealousies  of  Soult,  combined 
they  might  have  arrested  even  Wel- 
lington himself  in  the  Pyrenees.    The 
repeated    defeats    suffered    there    by 
Soult  single-handed,  compelled  Suchet 
to  evacuate  Tarragona,  and  Aug.  18 
he    blew   up   the  fortifications.     Un- 
sightly is  the  ruin  and  painful  the  re- 
collections, and  to  none  more  than  the 
Englishman  when  he  reflects  on  those 
miserable  ministerial  mediocrities  by 
whom   the   energies  of  this  country 
were  misdirected ;  what  excuse  can  be 
found  for  those  who,  having  the  choice 
of  a  Hill,   Picton,   Cole,  Pakenham, 
Graham,  etc.,  could  select  for  this  E. 
side,  men  whose  whole  careers,  civil 
and  military,  had  before  been  a  failure, 
as  ever  after. 

Tarragona  is  still  a  plaza  de  armas, 
by  name  at  least,  as  for  all  real  strength 
of  war  it  is  entirely  unprovided:  the 
city  contains  about  12,000  souls ;  in  the 
time  of  the  Romans  it  exceeded  a  mil- 
lion. It  consists  of  an  upper  and  under 
town  ;  the  under  is  protected  by  a  range 
of  bastions  fronting  the  Francoli,  the 
port,  and  mole,  while  an  inner  line  of 


works  protects  the  rise  to  the  upper 
town.  A  wide  street,  the  Eambla,  runs 
at  this  point  almost  N.  and  S.,  and  is 
defended  to  the  sea-side  by  the  bastion 
Carlos  V.  The  upper  town  is  girdled 
with  ramparts  and  outworks :  that  of 
the  memorable  Olivo  should  be  visited 
for  the  view  of  Tarragona.  The  walk 
round  the  lofty  ramparts  is  striking ; 
even  the  ruins  speak  Latin  and  bear 
the  impress  of  Caesar ;  what  a  sermon  in 
these  stones,  which  preach  the  fallen 
pride  of  imperial  Rome !  Part  of  the 
bases  of  the  enormous  Cyclopean  walls 
near  the  Car  eel  or  Quartel  de  Pilatos 
(Pontius  Pilate  being  claimed  by  the 
Tarragonese  as  a  townsman)  have  been 
thought  to  be  anterior  to  the  Romans. 
This  edifice,  said  to  have  been  the 
palace  of  Augustus,  half  destroyed  by 
Suchet,  has  since  been  made  a  prison. 
The  bossage  work  of  this  ruin  upon 
ruins  resembles  that  of  Merida  and 
Alcantara ;  the  thickness  of  the  walls 
in  some  places  exceeds  20  ft.  Many 
remains  of  antiquity  are  constantly 
found  at  Tarragona,  and  as  constantly 
either  reburied  or  mutilated ;  a  few 
fragments  of  low  art,  and  among  them 
an  Apollo,  are  huddled  away  in  the 
Acidemia  among  other  "  old  stones." 
Ship-loads  of  antiquities,  it  is  said, 
were  carried  off  by  the  English  in 
1722,  and  Florez  {Esp,  Sag,  xxiv.  2)  is 
grateful  to  the  foreigners  for  having 
thus  preserved  what  the  abandono  y 
ignorancia  of  his  countrymen  would 
have  let  perish;  some  of  them  are 
at  Lord  Stanhope's  seat,  Chevening. 
Some  Egyptian  antiquities  have  re- 
cently been  said  to  have  been  found 
here,  and  of  which  have  been  published 
rude  lithographs,  but  they  may  be 
safely  pronounced  to  be  spurious ;  the 
hieroglyphics  are  clumsy  forgeries,  and 
the  figures  a  hodgepodge  of  antiquities 
of  all  periods. 

Leaving  the  Puerta  de  Santa  Clara, 
near  the  Bastion  del  Toro,  and  close  to 
the  sea-shore,  are  a  few  misshapen 
remains  of  what  once  was  an  amphi- 
theatre, which  have  always  been  used 
as  a  quarry.  Portions  of  a  circus  1 500 
feet  long,  but  now  built  over,  are.  to  be 
traced  between  the  bastion  of  Carlos  V. 
and    Santo  Domingo.     The    site    was 


402 


ROUTE  44. — TARRAGONA — SCIHO'S  TOMB. 


Sect.  VI. 


partly  excavated  and  ascertained  in 
1754  by  an  Irish  gentleman  named 
Coningham.  The  stupendous  walls 
near  the  Plaza  San  Antonio^  which 
overlook  the  sea,  deserve  notice. 
!How  dearly  ancient  Tarragona  was 
^used  np  as  a  qnarry  in  rebaildiug 
^he  modern  town  may  be  seen  at 
the  end  of  the  Rambla  in  the  Al- 
macen  de  Artiileria ;  and  the  Roman 
inscriptions  imbedded  here  and  else- 
where are  so  numerous  that  the  walls 
are  said  to  speak  Latin.  Observe  No. 
13,  Calle  Escrivanias  Viejas,  the  window 
and  lintel  made  up  of  Roman  remains, 
and  the  singular  Hebrew-like  inscrip- 
tions. There  are  others  also  in  the 
courtyard  of  the  archbishop's  modem 
palace  and  in  the  cathedral  cloister. 
The  bossage  stones  in  the  Campanario 
and  walls  of  the  cathedral  prove 
that  they  once  belonged  to  former 
edifices. 

Two  ancient  monuments  situated  at 
a  distance  from  the  town  have  there- 
fore escaped  somewhat  better.     About 

I  L.  on  the  road  to  LeHda  to  the  r.  is  a 
superb  Roman  aqueduct.  It  spans 
the  dip  of  a  valley  from  which  the 
loftiest  arches  rise  96  ft.  high;  double, 

II  below  and  26  in  the  upper  tier; 
they  diminish  in  height  as  they  ascend 
the  slopes ;  the  length  is  700  ft.  The 
water  runs  partly  underground  nearly 
20  m.  from  the  "  Pont  d* Armentara,** 
This  aqueduct  is  called  el  Puente  de 
Ferreras,  and  by  the  vulgar  del  Diablo, 
giving  as  usual  all  praise  to  "  the 
devil,"'  as  pontifex  maximus.  In  this 
respect,  however,  the  real  devils  in 
Spain  were  the  clergy,  as  the  Puentes 
del  Obispo,  Arzobispo,  Cardenal,  etc.  best 
prove :  they  were  truly  Aou/^Mir,  or  as 
San  Isidoro  interpreted  the  word  ^Ucn- 
/Mftt,  skilful  and  intelligent,  and  to 
knowledge  they  added  wealth  and 
beneficence.  The  view  from  above  is 
charming ;  the  lonely  rich  ochry  aque- 
duct, stretched  across  a  ravine,  with 
here  and  there  a  pine-tree  soaring  out 
of  the  palmito-clad  soil,  looks  truly 
the  work  of  those  times  when  there 
were  giants  on  the  earth.  Ruined  by 
the  Moors,  it  so  remained  upwards  of 
1000  years,  until  repaired  by  the 
Archbishops  Joaquin  de  Santiyan  de 


Valdivielso  and  Armanac;  what  they 
repaired,  Snchet  destroyed,  who  broke 
it  down  near  the  Olivo:  it  hm  since 
been  set  to  rights. 

Make  another  excursion  1  L.  to  the 
N.W.  of  Tarragona,  along  the  sea- 
coast,  to  a  Roman  sepulchre,  called  La 
Torre  de  los  Kscipiones,  although   the 
real  place  of  the  burial  of  the  Scipios 
is  quite    unknown ;    the  picturesque 
road   runs    amid    pine-clad    hillocks, 
which  slope  down  to  sheltered  bays, 
where  fishermen  haul  in  their  heavy 
nets,  and  where  painted  barks  sleep  on 
the  lazy  sea ;  on  the  ridges  above  bird- 
catchers    spread    their    toils.      The 
monument  lies  close  to  the  road,  amid 
aromatic  shrubs  all  life  and  colour; 
two  injured  figures,  in  mournful  atti- 
tudes, stand  on  the  front;  the  stone- 
work is  much  corroded:  an  alabaster 
inscription  was  taken  down  by  Card. 
Ximenez;  in  that  which  remains  the 
word  perpetuo  is  just  legible,  as  if  in 
mockery  of  man  and  his  perishable 
works.    The  view  towards  Tarragona 
is  ravishing ;  the  beauty  of  the  present 
is  heightened  by  the  poetry  of  the  ^ 
past.    The  rock-built  city  slopes  with 
its  lines  of  wall  down  to  the  mole, 
studded  with   white  sails,  while  the 
vapoury  distant  hills  and  the  blue  sea 
peep  through  vistas  of  the  red  branches 
of  the  pines,  and  glitter  through  the 
dark  velvet  of  their  tufted  heads ;  and 
then    the    sentiment,    the    classical 
Claude-like  feeling  inspired   by  the 
grey  Roman  tomb ! 

The  cathedral  and  the  fortifications 
are  what  best  deserve  notice  in  modern 
Tarragona ;  the  former  partakes  much 
of  the  Norman  character;  the  approach, 
as  is  usual  in  Catalonia,  and  like  that 
of  the  semi-Norman  Amalfi,  ascends 
by  a  flight  of  steps  from  the  busy 
market-place  de  ha  Coles.  The  effect 
has  been  well  calculated ;  as  the  high 
altar  in  Spain  is  raised  by  steps  above 
the  level  on  which  the  congregation 
kneel,  so  this  temple  rises  above  the 
town :  thus  everything  tends  to  elevate 
the  priest  above  the  people ;  they^  look 
up  to  him  and  his  dwelling,  until  the 
transition  from  a  material  superiority 
soon  passes  to  one  moral  and  spiritual. 
According   to    local    annalists    the 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  44. — ^TARRAGONA — SANTA  TECLA. 


403 


original  cathedral  -was  built  by  Santi- 
ago, and  in  it  St.  Panl  preached  (neither 
of  whom  ever  were  in  Spain);  mean- 
time the  &9ade  of  the  present  edifice 
rises  to  a  triangle,  with  a  truncated 
point;  the  superb  rose  window  was 
commenced  in  1131  by  San  Oldegar, 
aided  by  Robert  Burdet,  who  went 
especially  into  Normandy  for  his  gar« 
rison    and    architects.      Thus,  as  in 
Sicily,   where  his  contemporary  and 
countryman  Roger  employed  Norman 
and   Saracenic  workmen,  a  fusion  of 
style  is  produced,  which  is  also  to  be 
traced  here  in  the  round  low  arches, 
the  billet  and  zigzag  ornaments  in  the 
cloisters,  and  the  circular  machicolated 
end  of  the  cathedral,  and  its  style  of 
towers.     The  Normans   were    bitter 
foes  to  the  Moslems,  first,  because  both 
were  of  the  same  trade,  invaders,  and 
secondly,  because  they  had  clashed  in 
Sicily    and    Spain.      The    northmen 
never  forgot  their  repulse  by  Abdu-r- 
rahman  (see  p.  1 64),  and  readily  allied 
themselves  with  the  Catalans,  passing 
either  from  Sicily  in  ships,  or  through 
France  from  Normandy.     Their  im- 
pression,   however,    was    short-lived, 
and  the  unrecmited  race  died  away, 
or  was  assimilated  with  the  more  po^ 
lished  people  whom  they  had  subdued. 
The  archives  of  the  cathedral,  once 
among  the  most  complete  and  curious, 
were  mostly  burnt  by  Suchet:  fortu- 
nately, an  abstract  of  them  had  been 
made  in   1802  by  the  learned  canon 
Domingo    Sala,  which  he  permitted 
us    to    peruse;    that,   doubtless,    has 
since    perished.    The    large    deeply- 
recessed  pointed  Gothic  porch,  with 
the     apostles    on    the     sides    under 
Gothic  niches,  is  the  work  of  Cas- 
cales,    1375;    the    fa9ade   is  earlier, 
and  was  finished  in  1280  by  Archbp. 
Olivella,  who  retired  to  the  monastery 
of  Comalbau,  stinting  himself  of  every- 
thing to  save  money  for  God's  work. 
The    iron-plated    doors,    the    strange 
hinges,  knockers,    and    copper  bultiB 
were  added  in  1456,  by  Archbp.  Gon- 
zalo,  as  his  arms  denote :  he  lies  buried 
on  one  side,  and  to  the  1.  a  prelate  of 
the  Medina  Celi  family.    The  doorway 
is  divided  by  a  figure  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  and  above  is  the  Saviour,  with 


popes  and  emperors  praying :  this  sin- 
gular work  is  attributed  to  Bartolom^, 
1278.    The  interior  of  the  cathedral, 
with  its  low  massy  piers,  is  simple  and 
grandiose ;  the  pih  or  baptismal  font 
is  a  Roman  bath,  or  sarcophagus,  found 
in  the  palace  of  Augustus ;  the  grand 
Retablo  was  constructed  of  Catalonian 
marbles,  by  Pedro  Juan  and  Guillen  de 
Mota,  in  1426-34.    The  Gothic  pinna- 
cles were  once  painted  and  gilt  ^  the 
principal  subjects  of  the  basso-relievos 
are  from   the    mar^^rdom    of  Santa 
Tecla,  the  tutelar  of  Tarragona ;  her 
grand  and  picturesque  festival  is  cele- 
brated on  the  23rd  of  September,  with 
sky-rockets,  dances,  &c.,  on  the  plaza ; 
she  was    converted    by  St.  Paul,  to 
whom  she  consecrated  her  virginity; 
thereupon  Thamiro,  to  whom  she  was 
to    ha%'e    been    married,  brought  an 
action  for  this  brtoch  of  promise ;  the 
Spanish  judges  ordered  her  to  be  burnt 
alive,  but  as  she  came  unhurt  from 
the  furnace,  she  was  then  cast  to  lions, 
who  only  licked  her  feet;  she  was  next 
exposed  to  the  rage  of  bulls,  and  lastly 
to  the  lust  of  soldiers,  who  resisted  a 
temptation    difficult  to   their  habits. 
Previously   to  Buonaparte's    invasion 
she     protected     the    church    plate : 
when  Pedro    el     Ceremonioso    wanted 
to    take    some    without   leave,     she 
descended    from    heaven,   and    dealt 
him  una  palmada,  a  box   on  the  ear, 
of  which   he  died  January  5,    1387 
{Aharcay  Ann.  de  Aragon,  p.  11 ,  ch.  12). 
So  Ceres,  at  Miletus,   punished    the 
sacrilegious  soldiers  of  Alexander  the 
Great  (Val.  Max.  i.  2),  asi  el  amor  venga 
8US  agraviosy  in  spite  of  the  proverb  that 
ladies'  hands  do  not  hurt,  manos  blan- 
cas  no  ofenden.      (By  the  way,  the 
Spanish  female   hand  is  one  of  the 
ugliest  and  least  white  in  Europe.    It 
is,  as  Rosalind  says,  **  a  leathern  hand, 
a  stone-coloured  one,  a  huswife's  hand," 
and  it  is  the  result  of  the  latter.    The 
constant  habit  of  embroidering  hardens 
the  finger-points;  not  that  their  pal- 
vnada  would  on  that  account  be  the 
less  efiective.)    Thence  Santa  Tecla 
was  justly  reckoned  by  the  chapter 
the  first  of  female  martyrs,  and  her 
aid  is  prayed  for  under  all  difficul- 
ties ;  but,  like  the  Cinta  of  Tortosa, 


404 


ROUTE  44. — TARRAGONA — CATHEDRAL. 


Sect.  VI. 


she  failed  in  the  case  of  Sachet's  siege. 
She  was  held  to  be  most  efficient  in 
the  pulpit.  "  Sir,"  said  Dr.  Johnson, 
"  a  woman  preaching  is  like  a  dog 
walking  on  his  hind  legs,  it  is  not 
well  done,  but  you  are  surprised  that 
it  is  done  at  all."  Her  chapel,  which 
was  modernised  in  1778,  is  very  rich 
in  red  marbles,  Corinthian  pillars,  and 
poor  sculptured  relievos  of  her  history 
by  one  Carlos  Salas.  Observe,  how- 
ever, the  tomb  and  costume  of  the 
Archbp.  Olivella. 

The  gorgeous  windows  in  the  tran- 
sept were  painted  by  Juan  Guarsh, 
1574:  the  elegant  Gothic  chandeliers 
are  modern,  and  were  made  at  Barce- 
lona :  the  Silleria  del  coro  is  excellent, 
and  carved  in  1478  by  Francisco 
Gomez  and  his  son.  Observe  the  arch- 
bishop's throne  and  the  reja:  the 
organ,  one  of  the  best  in  the  province, 
was  designed  by  Canon  Amigd,  of 
Tortosa,  in  1560.  Many  tombs  here 
are  extremely  ancient;  behind  the 
altar  is  that  of  Cyprian,  a  Gothic  arch- 
bishop, 683  ;  observe  those  in  the  1. 
transept,  in  chests  resting  on  stone 
corbels ;  the  dates  range  from  1 1 74  to 
1215;  several  of  the  deceased  were 
killed  in  these  foray  periods  (Hugo  de 
Cervellon,  Villadez,  Moltz,  &c.).  The 
Capilla  del  Sacramento,  with  its  noble 
and  truly  classical  Corinthian  portal, 
was  built  in  1561-86  by  the  Archbishop 
Agustin,  the  first  of  modern  coin-col- 
lectors, from  a  design  of  his  own,  cor- 
rected by  the  Canon  Amigo ;  he  died 
in  1586,  leaving  Santa  Ted  a  and  this 
chapel  his  sole  heirs :  his  fine  tomb  is 
the  work  of  the  celebrated  Pedro  Blay, 
1590:  the  chapel  was  originally  the 
refectory  of  the  canons  when  they  lived 
in  community;  the  roof  has  been 
thought  to  be  Roman.  Suchet  used  it  as 
a  military  magazine  ;  the  marble  Retahlo 
is  filled  with  paintings  by  Isaac  Hermes, 
1587.  Of  the  sculpture,  the  Aaron 
and  Melchizedec  are  by  Albrion  and 
Nicholas  Larraut,  1588;  the  bronzes 
of  the  Sagrario  are  by  Felipe  Volters, 
1588. 

In  the  rt.  transept,  near  the  altar  del 
Sinto  Crista,  observe  the  rude  and 
most  antique  ships  and  crosses  let  into 
the  walls :  the  badge  of  the  cathedral 


is  a  cross  in  the  shape  of  an  Egyptian 
Tan.  The  chapel  de  la  Virgen  de  los 
Sastres,  the  Tailors*  Virgin,  and  that 
under  the  organ,  erected,  in  1252,  by 
Violante,  wife  of  Don  Jaime,  to  her 
sainted  sister  Isabel  of  Hungary,  are 
very  ancient.  The  capilla  de  San  Juan 
and  that  of  San  Fructuoso,  a  tutelar  of 
Tarragona,  obiit  260,  were  erected  by 
Pedro  Blay :  another  local  tutelar  is 
San  Magin,  who  when  alive  dwelt  in  a 
cave,  was  brought  in  to  the  Boman 
governor  like  a  wild  beast,  executed, 
and  since  has  worked  such  astonishing 
miracles  (see  £Jsp.  Sag.  xxv.  177)  that 
the  Junta  in  1808  chose  him  for  their 
Captain  General.  He  is  prayed  to  in 
cases  of  deafness,  bad  eyes,  and  el  mal 
Frances,  The  fine  Raphaelesque  paint- 
ings in  the  chapel  de  la  Magdalewi  were 
destroyed  by  the  French ;  the  temo^ 
which,  like  that  of  Valencia,  is  said  to 
have  belonged  to  St.  Paul's  of  London, 
escaped,  and  is  used  at  Easter.  There 
is  also  some  fine  Flemish  tapestry  with 
which  the  pillars  are  hung,  or  colgadoy 
on  grand  festivals.  Among  the  tombs 
observe,  near  the  altar,  that  of  Juan 
de  Aragon,  Patriarch  of  Alexandria, 
ob.  1334;  the  expression  is,  perhaps, 
too  smiling.  Near  the  Sacrist  ia  is 
that  of  Archbishop  Alonso  de  Aragon, 
ob.  1514:  observe  also  that,  by  Pedro 
Blay,  of  Archbishop  Gaspar  de  Cer- 
vantes Gaete,  who  was  at  the  Council 
of  Trent.  The  allegorical  statues  are 
fine ;  observe  that  of  Archbishop  Pedro 
de  Cardona,  and  his  nephew's,  Luis, 
also  archbishop,  with  the  elegant 
scroll-work  and  children:  finer  still 
is  that  of  Archbishop  Juan  Teres, 
under  a  Corinthian  pavilion,  by  Pedro 
Blay. 

The  exquisite  cloister  is  a  museum  of 
antiquity  and  architecture.  Ascend  the 
terrace  of  a  canon's  house  to  obtain  a 
view  of  the  truncated  towers  of  the  ca- 
thedral, their  strange  windows,  the 
machicolations  of  the  circular  end,  the 
rich  projecting  Gothic  chapel,  and  the 
square  transept  with  rose  window.  In 
the  cloisters  below,  the  pointed  windows 
are  divided  by  smaller  round-headed 
Norman  arches,  while  in  the  space 
above  are  circular  openings  with  Moor- 
ish ornaments,  which  were  much  de- 


Catalorda,        route  44. — excursions  to  reus  and  poblet. 


405 


faced  by  Sachet's  troops.  Observe  the 
cornice  of  chequer  and  billet  mouldings, 
with  a  fringe  of  engrailed  arches  resting 
on  corbels  or  crockets  of  heads ;  observe 
the  romanesque  capitals  and  fantastic 
cai*vings,  among  them  a  rat  and  cat 
funeral :  the  Norman  zigzag  or  chevron 
is  remarkable.  In  the  walls  are  em- 
bedded fragments  of  Roman  sculp- 
ture, said  to  be  portions  of  the  temple 
of  Au^stns;  observe  also  a  Moorish 
arch  of  a  Mihrab  or  oratory  ;  the  cuphic 
inscription  states  that  it  was  made  by 
Giafar  for  the  prince  Abdala  Abdu-r- 
rahman,  "  the  servant  of  God — of  the 
compassionate,"  in  the  year  of  the 
Hegira  349,  a.d.  960.  Among  the 
sepulchral  inscriptions  is  one  a.d.  1194 
to  Raimundus  Boneweworte  (?  Buona- 
parte), hujus  ecclesiae  prsepositus : 
another  inscription,  "  8th  Company,^* 
comes  home  to  every  English  reader. 
The  central  garden  is  quaint ;  a  coarse 
alto-relievo  with  mythological  figures 
is  used  as  a  seat — "  old  stones."  In  this 
cloister  the  ashes  of  Jaime  el  Conques- 
tador,  and  of  other  royal  personages, 
repose  at  last,  having  been  removed 
from  Poblet.  Near  the  cathedral  is 
the  Quartel  del  Patriarca,  formed  out  of 
a  Roman  edifice,  and  much  injured  by 
Sachet,  perhaps  because  Francois  I. 
was  kept  a  prisoner  in  it.  Behind  the 
cathedral  is  a  very  ancient  little  church 
called  San  Pablo,  and  said  to  have 
been  built  by  the  apostle  himself. 
Not  far  off  is  Sta.  Tecla,  La  Vieja— 
also  attributed  to  the  same  illustrious 
architect,  but  it  is  probably  an  erection 
of  the  12th  century — the  cornices,  win- 
dows, and  portals  are  worth  notice. 
Walkout  also  to  the  gates  of  San  Anto- 
nio and  Merced  to  look  at  the  old  walls 
and  striking  views  of  this  ancient  and 
now  desolate  city. 

Tarragona  unfortunately  has  a  bad 
port.  A  muelle,  mole,  or  pier,  was 
chiefly  made  out  of  the  ancient  amphi- 
theatre by  the  chapter,  who  in  1491 
employed  Amau  Bouchs.  The  present 
is  the  plan  of  one  John  Smith.  Re- 
cently improvements  have  been  made 
in  spite  of  the  rivalry  and  opposition 
from  the  port  of  Salou — one  more  con- 
venient for  the  cotton-spinners  of  Reus. 
Tarragona  exports  nuts,  of  which  vast 


quantities  are  gathered  in  the  Selva  de 
Avellanos. 

Excursions  to  Reus  and  Poblet. 

There  is  constant  local  means  of 
getting  to  and  from  Reus,  2  L.  This 
modern  lively  manufacturing  town 
which  contrasts  with  desolate  decaying 
Tarragona,  is  the  flourishing  capital 
and  the  centre  of  its  rich  and  highly- 
cultivated  campo  or  comarca.  The 
older  portion  of  Heus  was  built  in 
1151  ;  the  more  modern  rose  about 
1750,  when  many  enterprising  English 
settled  there  and  established  a  com- 
merce in  wines,  brandies,  and  leathers, 
the  firm  of  Harris  taking  the  lead. 
The  new  portion,  with  its  wide  plazas 
and  streets,  glaring  in  summer  and 
cold  in  winter,  contrasts  with  the 
tortuous  but  cool  and  sensible  lanes 
of  the  earlier  town.  Ascend  the 
.San  Pedro  for  a  view.  The  arabal, 
a  street  built  on  the  former  suburb 
boundary,  is  a  sort  of  boulevard.  The 
mercado  is  the  centre  of  shops  and 
loungers,  a  sort  of  arcaded  exchange. 
There  is  a  theatre  and  decent  inns  and 
cafes,  for  it  is  a  busy  place  with  its  silk 
and  cotton  works.  Pop.  above  20,000. 
Monday  is  the  best  day  to  go  to  lietiSj 
as  being  the  market.  The  seaport 
SaloH,  the  rival  and  bane  of  Tarragona, 
is  exposed  to  all  winds  but  the  east, 
and  is  really  safe  only  in  summer. 
Eeus — rich,  commercial,  selfish,  and 
cowardly — opened  its  gates  to  the 
French  m  1808,  and  was  half  ruined  by 
their  exactions  under  McDonald:  in 
1835  it  distinguished  itself  by  cold 
monk  murder,  and  in  1 843  by  "  little 
warrings,"  in  which  the  rival  gene- 
rals, Zambrano  and  Prim,  both  were 
made  Condes  de  Reus !  arcades  ambo. 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  on 
horseback  to  VaUs,  3^  L.,  and  Foblet. 
Vails,  with  its  old  walls  and  towers,  is 
a  thriving  town  of  16,000  souls.  Here 
the  Spaniards  were  completely  beaten, 
Feb.  25,  1809,  by  St.  Cyr,  and  Red- 
ing, the  real  hero  of  Bailen,  received 
his  death  -  wound  :  the  disheartened 
troops  abandoned  artillery  and  every- 
thing, when  the  town  was  sacked, 
and  the  whole  district  fell  into  th-* 


4Ud 


BOUTE  *d. — ^TARRAGONA  TO  BARCELONA. 


Sect.  VI. 


datches  of  the  invaden.  On  the  same 
plains  Jan.  16, 1811,  Sarefield  revenged 
this  disaster,  and  routed  Gen.  Eugene 
and  an  Italian  detachment  of  Mac- 
donald*s,  a  little  fact  entirely  sup- 
pressed by  Buonaparte. 

1}  L.  from    VaUt   is   the  decayed 
town  of  Moatblanch,  Pop.  4000,  with 
its  old  walls,  towers,  and  four  gates ; 
and  about  2  L.  more  lies  the  once 
celebrated    Cistercian    monastery  of 
Pobiet,  which  is  placed  at  the  entrance 
of  the  rich  valley  La  Conca  de  Barberd^ 
and  was  itself  the  Pearl  of  the  '*  Shell." 
Monastic   devotion    was  judiciously 
sheltered  bv  a  spur  of  the  hill  Prades, 
and  cheered  by  fertile  farms  and  far- 
famed  vineyards.    The  mitred  abbot, 
"  purple  as  bis  wines,"  reigned  in  Pali- 
tinate  pomp.     In  the  recent  reforms, 
July  24,  1835,  he  and  his  monks  fled ; 
then  the  axe  felled  his  fruit  trees,  and 
the  torch  fired  the  cells ;  ruin  and  rob- 
bery have  since  been  the  order  of  the 
day,  and  the  glories  of  Poblet  are  of 
the  past :  what  they  once  were  are  re- 
corded in  the  ffistoria,  by  Jayme  Fi- 
nestres,  4  vols.  4to.,  Cervera,  1753 ;  in 
Ponz,xiv.  220;  and  Madoz,  xiii.  94;  and 
more  fully  in  the  description  of  Foblet, 
by    Andres  de    Bofarull,   Tarragona, 
1848.     The  foundation  was  after  this 
wise.    In  the  time  of  the  Moors,  a  holy 
hermit  named  Foblet  retired  here  to 
pray,   but  an  emir,    when    hunting, 
caught  him  and  put  him  in  prison; 
but  on  the  angels  of  heaven  naving 
broken    his    chains  three  times,   the 
Moor  repented,  and  granted  him  all 
the    territory  of  Hardeta;  when  the 
Christians    reconquered  the   country, 
the  body  of  Poblet  was    revealed  to 
the   charch  in    1149,    by  miraculous 
lights,  and  Ramon  Hereneuer  IV.  im- 
mediately built  the  half-fortress  con- 
vent El  Santo,  and  confirmed  to  the 
clergy  who  discovered  the  holy  bones 
the  whole  of  the  extensive  Moorish 
grants.      Thus   the    convent   became 
enormously  rich,  and  was  made  the 
Escorial,  the  burial-place  of  the  Ara- 
gonese  kings,  and  afterwards  of  the 
dukes  of  Cardona,  who  repaired  the 
sepulchres  and  church.    This  resting- 
place  of  royalty  was  ravaged  by  the 
troops  of  Suchet,  and  worse  again  by 


the  Spanish  revolutionists  of  1835; 
still  the  long  battlemented  walls  are 
very  picturesque,  and  the  cloisters  im- 
pressive. The  ruined  portico,  coro, 
with  the  sala  capitular  ana  monumental 
slabs,  offer  a  faint  record  of  this  former 
pantheon,  where  so  much  royal  dust  re- 
posed. The  ashes  of  lines  of  kings 
cast  to  the  wind,  were  in  part  collected 
by  a  local  curate  named  Sorret,  and  re- 
moved to  the  cloister  of  the  cathedral 
at  Tarragona :  requiescant  in  pace !  The 
grand  objects  of  former  Poblet  were 
the  sepulchres,  in  which  several  of  Uie 
deceased  kings  had  two  effigies,  one 
representing  the  monarch  armed  or 
arrayed  in  royalty,  the  other  as  clad  in 
the  garb  of  a  deacon  or  a  monk.  This 
is  truly  characteristic  of  the  mediaeval 
Spaniard,  half-soldier,  half  monk,  a 
crusading  knight  of  Santiago;  his 
manhood  spent  in  combating  for  the 
cross,  his  declining  years  dedicated  to 
religion.  No  country  has  ever  pro- 
duced more  instances  of  kings  retiring 
to  the  cloister,  nor  of  soldiers  resigning 
the  sword  for  the  crucifix,  and  washing 
off  the  blood  from  their  hands,  making 
their  peace  with  God,  after  a  life  of 
battle  in  his  cause.  Jaime  the  Con- 
queror contemplated  ending  his  life 
here  as  a  monk,  where  Pope's  Duke  of 
Wharton  actually  did  die.  The  artist 
or  antiquarian  going  to  Poblet  should 
not  forget  at  dinner  to  drink  the  rich 
red  wine  del  Priorato, 


Route  45. — Tabbagk)na  to 
Babcelona. 


Torredembarra  .     .     . 

.3 

Vendrell     . 

.    2     . 

4 

Villafranca  de  Panades 

.    3 

1 

Vallirana     . 

.    Si    . 

loi 

Barcelona    . 

.    3i    . 

14 

There  is  a  regular  communication 
by  diligences.  To  the  rt.  rises  the 
tomb  of  the  Scipios,  and  the  Gaya  is 
crossed,  and  thus  described  by  Lord 
Wm.  Bentinck  (no  notability  either 
with  sword  or  pen)  :  "  The  river,  hav- 
ing no  water  in  it,  and  being  only  im- 
passable from  the  steepness  of  its  banks, 
is  passable  for  infantry  everywhere." 


Catahnia, 


ROUTE  45. — ^VILLAFRANCA  DE  PANADES. 


407 


(Disp.,  Aug.  25,  1813.)  Passing  that, 
to  the  rt.  is  a  picturesque  ruined  castle 
and  atalaya;  then  Altafullaf  with  its 
square  tower  on  the  sea,  and  Torre- 
demb%rra,  Pop.  2000,  with  its  octan- 
gular keep.  In  this  rich  district  the 
olive  and  vine  flourish,  and  irrigation 
is  managed  by  the  Moorish  noria.  The 
Roman  arch,  the  Arco  de  Bara^  the 
next  object  of  interest  is  much  injured, 
and  the  statues  gone :  it  is  best  seen 
from  the  Barcelona  side ;  the  inscrip- 
tion ran,  "Ex  testamento  L.  Licini, 
L.  F.  Serg.  Surse  consecratum."  At 
Vendrelly  Pop.  3500,  with  its  dragon- 
flj-winffed  windmills,  the  country  be- 
comes densely  peopled :  the  view  from 
the  fine  parish  belfry  is  extensive. 

Arbos  is  placed  on  a  hill,  with  a 
splendid  prospect ;  the  town  was  one  of 
the  first  places  sacked  by  the  French, 
under  Chabran,  who  burnt  the  village 
and  the  villagers  alive  in  it  (Schep.  i. 
223).  Soon  the  panorama  opens  over 
Villa/ranca  and  the  skeleton  mountain 
of  Monserrat  looms  with  jagged  out- 
line :  at  OlerdolGf  which  lies  to  the  rt., 
are  some  Roman  tombs  cut  in  the  rocks ; 
at  the  entrance  of  Villafranca  is  a 
monument  to  the  memory  of  Wm.  Han- 
son, killed  in  the  late  war.  Sidges, 
famous  for  its  sweet  wines,  lies  on  the 
coast  about  7  m.  to  the  rt. 

Villafranca  de  Panades,  inn,  Parador 
nuevo,  is  a  walled  town  of  some  5500 
souls :  founded  by  Amilcar,  it  was  the 
earliest  Carthaginian  settlement  in 
Catalonia ;  it  was  retaken  from  the 
Moors  in  1000  by  Ramon  Borel,  and, 
beinff  a  frontier  of  a  disturbed  district, 
was  declared  free,  and  highly  favoured 
with  privileges,  in  order  to  entice 
settlers — hence  its  name.  The  Ramhla 
is  a  pretty  walk.  The  Parroquia^  a 
fine  specimen  of  masonry,  has  a  noble 
nave ;  the  lofty  belfry  or  Catalonian 
tower  is  crowned  by  a  bronze  angel. 
The  Panades  district  is  very  fertile; 
the  fine  road  soon  enters  the  grey 
rocky  hills  and  aromatic  underwood  : 
ascendijig  to  the  Cruz  or  Coll  de  Or- 
dal^  Barcelona  glitters  in  the  distance. 
Here  a  magnificent  bridge,  de  Lledonea, 
spans  the  ravine;  this  was  the  im- 
portant point  which  Sir  Fred.  Adam 
did  not  secure^  and  thereby  did  secure 


defeat.  Lord  Wm.  Bentinck  moved, 
Sept.  5,  1813,  from  Villafranca :  Adam, 
on  the  1 2th,  reached  Ordal,  and,  al- 
though warned  of  the  French  advance, 
left  this  the  only  approach  open, so  Gen. 
Mesclop  crossed  the  unguarded  bridge 
by  moonlight,  and  a  confused  retreat 
ensued.  Adam  fell  back  on  Bentinck, 
who  was  driven  by  Suchet  to  Arbos. 
A  thousand  men  and  four  guns  were 
thus  lost  by  these  blunderers,  and  the 
great  plans  of  the  Duke  were  again  de- 
ranged as  by  the  bungler  Murray  at  Tar- 
ragona. He  even  feared  that  "  Suchet 
would  tumble''  such  opponents  beyond 
the  Jucar,  and  meditated  coming  him- 
self in  person  to  set  all  to  rights ;  and 
had  he  done  so,  how  differently  would 
matters  have  been  managed!  As  it 
was,  his  difficulties  were  constantly 
increased  by  the  blunders  of  the  Mur- 
rays,  Bentincks,  and  Adamses,  under 
whom  our  armies  failed  on  this  coast, 
and  being  pitted  againstwhom  Suchet — 
who  luckily  never  met  the  Duke — rose 
rapidly  to  fame.  The  despatches  of 
the  Duke  to  Bentinck,  embodying  the 
whole  art  of  war  in  Spain,  remain  for 

gosterity,  however  thrown  away  on 
im  to  whom  they  were  addressed. 
The  road  descending  from  these 
disastrous  hills  reaches  Molins  del  Rey^ 
a  whitewashed  town  backed  by  vine- 
clad  slopes,  which  was  sacked  and 
burnt  by  the  French  in  1808,  when 
retreating  from  their  defeat  at  Bruch. 
The  Llobregat,  Bi^icatusy  flows  in  a 
muddy  reddish  stream  under  a  long, 
solid,  heavy,  red-stoned  bridge.  Here, 
Dec.  21,  1808,  Gen.  Chabran  utterly 
routed  the  Spaniards  under  Vives  and 
Reding,  the  former  only  cominff  up  to 
see  his  troops  in  full  retreat.  Nothing 
but  this  shameful  defeat  could  have 
enabled  St.  Cyr  to  relieve  Barcelona,  or 
have  saved  the  French  from  utter  ruin  j 
for  they  were  at  that  moment  driven 
to  the  last  extremities.  Then  and 
there  these  patriots  lost  all  the  arms 
and  stores  supplied  by  England — fur- 
nished, in  fact,  as  elsewhere,  to  the 
enemy. 

Now  begins  the  dusty  thickly-throng- 
ed high-road  to  Barcelona:  the  disd, 
emblem  of  the  Catalan's  knowledge  of 
the  value  of  time,  is  now  placed  on  most 


408 


ROUTE  45. — BARCELONA. 


Sect.  VI. 


of  the  stuccoed  and  painted  houses. 
This  primitive  clock,  "vrhich  is  rather 
for  the  benefit  of  the  passenger  outside 
than  for  the  tenant  inside,  is  peculiar  to 
this  city  of  Barca.  The  dial,  of  Chal- 
dean origin  (2  Kings  xx.  i  I ),  was  not 
introduced  into  Rome  until  after  the 
first  Punic  war  (Pliny,  *  N.  H/  vii.  60). 
Clocks  indeed  are  not  much  more  com- 
mon in  the  interior  of  Spain  than  in 
Barbary ;  the  sun  and  shadows  are  the 
primitive  method  of  counting  the  flight 
of  time  in  countries  where  it  is  of  little 
value.  The  busy  women  sit  in  the  open 
air  making  lace:  the  peasants  are  all 
trousers,  and  their  loaves  are  those  of 
Brobdignag,  some  weighing  30  lbs. 
Crowds  are  now  to  be  met  either 
snoring  in  their  carts,  singing,  or 
drinking  out  of  porrones  at  the  ventor- 
rillos. 

Barcelona  soon  opens  in  view,  with 
its  lines  of  walls  and  fortifications  and 
its  Catalonian  towers.  It  is  well  si- 
tuated on  a  rich  ^*pla  **  or  plain,  girdled 
by  fresh  hills,  and  irrigated  and  ferti- 
lised by  the  river  Llobreqat  and  the 
canals  Condal  y  Real,  These  advan- 
tages are  counterbalanced  by  the  town 
being  a  plaza  de  armas.  The  garrison 
precautions  impede  free  ingress  and 
egress  ;  the  place  is  exposed  to  sieges, 
and  its  proportions,  limited  by  the 
girdle  of  walls  which  cannot  be  ex- 
tended to  meet  a  growing  prosperity ; 
hence,  in  addition  to  their  turbulent 
rebellious  tendencies,  the  Barcelonese 
have  always  been  anxious  to  pull  down 
these  fortifications,  promised  indeed  as 
a  cuirass  against  enemies,  but  in  fact  a 
straight  waistcoat  for  themselves.  Li- 
berty and  commerce  cribbed,  cabined, 
and  confined,  pines,  pent  up  in  what  is 
but  a  prison  on  a  larger  scale.  Barce- 
lonij  besides  social  advantages,  has  na- 
tural attractions  to  our  invalids  for  a 
winter  residence ;  accessibility  and 
proximity  to  France,  favourable  acci- 
dents of  locality,  an  open  sea  and  plain, 
with  a  mountain-skreen  from  northerly 
winds,  are  among  the  advantages  enu- 
merated by  Dr.  Francis.  Barcelona 
enjoys  a  winter  and  annual  temperature 
warmer  than  Rome  or  Naples,  averaging 
about  50-18°:  the  townsfolk  are  hardy 
and  long-lived. 


Tnns. — The  Catalan  takes  kindly  to 
the  hotel  and  kitchen.  Fonda  delgrande 
Oriente,  excellent;  the  charges  are  5 
pesetas  a  day :  Cuatro  NacioneSy  good, 
charge  35  reals  per  day:  the  Falixt^ 
opposite  the  theatre.  The  minor  po- 
sadas  are  called  hostals.  The  Casus 
Pupilos  (Casas  de  Desposa)  are  ill 
adapted  for  ladies,  and  not  often  fre- 
quented by  foreigners.  The  warm 
baths  are  good.  Carriages  for  country 
excursions  are  always  to  be  found  near 
the  Puerta  del  Angel, 

Among  tradesmen  may  be  named 
booksellers,  Sauri,  Calle  Ancha;  Brasi, 
Calle  Libretena;  Fiferer,  Plaza  del 
Angel ;  jewellers,  Ortels,  Soler,  &c. — 
they  all  live  together  in  the  Plateria, 
which  everybody  should  visit.  The 
mosquitonets  of  Barcelona  are  excel- 
lent ;  let  none  going  to  Valencia  omit 
to  buy  one  at  Ainigo  y  Sauri,  Calle 
Corders.  There  are  constant  com- 
munications by  steam  (office  Calle  de 
la  Merced),  and  by  diligences  (Ram- 
bla,  No.  101),  in  every  direction.  For 
excursions  to  the  smaller  towns,  each 
locality  has  its  hostal,  its  imi  of  call,  at 
which  the  Galeras,  Carrabas,  and  mule- 
teers are  always  to  be  heard  of.  The 
best  works  on  Barcelona  are  the  *  ffis- 
toria  de  los  Condes,*  Francisco  de  Diago, 
folio,  Barcelona,  1603;  the  *  Trofeos  y 
Antigiiedades/  Juan  de  Dios  Lopez,  4to. 
Barcelona,  1 639 ;  Florez,  *  Usp.  Sag.' 
xxix. ;  *  Disertacion*  Isidore  Bosarte, 
8vo.  Madrid,  1786;,Ponz,  xiv.  ;  and 
the  *  Memorias*  and  *  Libro  del  Consulado' 
of  Capmany.  There  is  a  useful  Guia 
published  by  Sauri,  and  maps  of  ihe 
streets  and  the  vicinity  published  in 
1818  by  Monfort,  and  by  Oliva  iu  1840. 
The  Catedratico  de  las  Casts  is  a  learned 
man  and  excellent  Spanish  master. 

BARCELONA,  one  of  the  finest  and 
certainly  the  most  manufacturing  city 
of  Spain,  is  a  better  placed  and  hand- 
somer city  than  Madrid.  It  is,  we 
repeat,  the  Manchester  of  Catalonia, 
which  is  the  Lancashire  of  the  Penin- 
sula. Some  50  tall  chimneys. besmut 
the  city,  and  an  iron  work  set  going  by 
a  Mr.  Kent,  modestly  called  -tY  Nueto 
Vulcanol  Compared,  however,  to  the 
mighty  hives  of  English  industry  and 
skill,  everything  is  petty.   The  ItcanUa 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  45. — BARCELONA. 


409 


divides  the  old  town  from  the  new, 
and  runs  nearly  N.  and  S.  It  once 
was  a  streamlet,  la  Eiera  den  Malla,  of 
the  "Mall,"  which  bounded  the  W. 
wall  of  Barcelona.  The  word  Ramhla 
(Arabic^  Rami,  a  sandy  heap)  means  a 
river  bed,  which  in  Spain  being  often 
dry  in  summer  is  used  as  a  road,  just 
as  the  Corso  (the  Spanish  Co8o)  became 
a  Cours  at  Marseilles,  and  a  race-course 
at  Home.  The  channel  taken  in,  on  the 
extension  of  the  city,  like  the  Boulevard 
of  Paris,  is  now  made  the  great  aorta, 
and  a  charming  walk  planted  with 
acacias  and  laburnums;  like  the  Unter 
den  Linden  at  Berlin,  this  is  the  fa- 
shionable promenade  by  day  and  night, 
and  the  Corso  of  the  renowned  car- 
nival of  Barcelona.  On  it  the  traveller 
should  lodge,  as  here  is  the  theatre, Zibeo, 
the  post-office,  the  diligence-office,  and 
the  bureau  for  passports,  the  best  shops, 
and  most  gape-seed. 

Barcelona,  according  to  local  annal- 
ists, was  a  Laletanian  city,  founded  of 
course  by  Hercules,  400  years  before 
Rome.  Kefounded  235  B.c.  by  Amilcar 
Barca,  father  of  Hannibal,  and  thence 
called  Barcino,  it  became  the  Carthago 
Nova  of  the  N.  coast.  The  Punic  city 
was  small,  and  only  occupied  the  hill 
Taber,  or  just  the  present  site  around 
the  cathedral.  In  206  b.c.  it  was  made 
a  colonia  by  the  Romans,  and  called 
**  Faventia  Julia  Augusta  Pia  Barcino.** 
It  was,  however,  eclipsed  by  Tarra- 
gona, the  Roman  capital,  and  by  £m- 
poriee,  a  busy  Greek  sea-mart.  Taken 
aboat  409  by  the  Gothi-Alani,  it  soon 
rose  in  importance,  and  coined  money 
with  the  legend  Barcinona;  two  councils 
were  held  here  in  540  and  599.  When 
the  Moors  destroyed  Tarragona,  Bar- 
celona, awed  by  the  example,  capitu- 
lated, was  kindly  treated,  and  became 
a  new  metropolis.  After  many  changes 
and  chances  during  the  8th  and  9th 
centuries,  in  878  it  was  ruled  by  an 
independent  Christian  chief  of  its  own, 
whose  1 2th  descendant  dropped  the 
title  of  Count  of  Barcelona,  on  assum- 
ing that  of  King  of  Arragon.  During 
the  middle  ages,  like  Carthage  of  old, 
Barcelona  was  the  lord  and  terror  of 
the  Mediterranean,  and  divided  with 
Italy  the  enriching  commerce  of  the 

Spain, — I. 


East,  and  trade  was  never  held  to  be  a 
degradation,  as  among  the  Castilians ; 
accordingly,  heraldic  decorations  are 
much  less  frequent  on  the  houses  here, 
where  the  merchant's  mark  was  pre- 
ferred to  the  armorial  charge.  The 
Catalans,  then  at  peace  and  free,  for 
the  Spanish  and  Moorish  struggle  was 
carried  on  far  away  in  the  S.,  were 
protected  by  municipal  charters  and 
fv/eros ;  their  commercial  code  dates 
from  1279,  and  El  consulado  del  mar 
de  Barcelona  obtained  the  same  force 
in  Europe,  as  the  Leges  JR/iodice  had 
among  the  ancients.  It  was  then 
a  city  of  commerce,  conquest,  and 
courtiers,  of  taste,  learning,  luxury, 
and  the  Athens  of  the  troubadour. 
Here,  April,  1493,  did  Ferd.  and  Isab. 
receive  Columbus,  after  his  discovery 
and  gift  of  a  new  world.  But  the  Cas- 
tilian  connexion,  with  its  wars,  pride, 
and  fiscal  absurdities,  led  to  the  decay 
ofBarcelona,and  the  citizens  soon  dfsco- 
vered  the  danger ;  thus  when  Charles  V. 
came  there,  he  was  only  received  as  their 
nominal  king :  hence  their  constant 
desire  to  shake  ofi'  that  foreign  yoke. 
Thus,  in  1640,  they  rose  against  the 
taxation  and  violation  of  their  usages 
by  Philip  IV.,  and  threw  themselves 
into  the  arms  of  France ;  turning  how- 
ever against  her  in  the  War  of  Succes- 
sion, and  espousing  the  Austrian  cause. 

When  the  glorious  career  of  Marl- 
borough was  arrested  by  party  moves, 
the  curse  of  England,  Barcelona  was 
left  alone  to  combat  her  two  powerful 
neighbours,  France  and  Spain.  Louis 
XIV.  then  sent  Berwick  with  40,000 
men  to  aid  Philip  V.,  whilst  an  Eng- 
lish fleet,  under  Wishart,  blockaded — 
proh  pudor  I — their  former  allies.  The 
city  refused  to  yield  unless  its  **fueros** 
were  secured,  and  was  therefore 
stormed  by  the  French;  Sept.  11,  a 
white  flag  was  hoisted,  but  in  vain, 
Mata  V  Quema  was  their  war  cry,  and 
Berwick  applied  the  torch  himself; 
and  when  the  sword,  fire,  and  lust  had 
do»e  their  worst,  all  the  privileges 
guaranteed  by  France  were  abolished 
by  Frenchmen  CMahon,  ix.). 

Buonaparte  obtained  Barcelona  by 
perfidy ;  he  knew  its  importance,  and 
called  it  the  "  first  city  *'  and  key  of 

T 


410 


ROUTE  45. — ^BARCELOXA — ^FESTIVALS. 


Sect.  VI. 


Spain ;  **  one  which  could  not  he  taken, 
in  fair  war,  with  less  than  80,000 
men."  Accordingly  in  Feb.  1808  he 
sent  Dahesme  with  11,000  men,  bat  in 
the  character  of  allies,  who  desired,  as 
a  **  proof  of  confidence  and  harmony," 
that  his  troops  might  alternately  mount 
guard  with  the  Spanish ;  this  granted, 
on  the  28th  he  seized  the  citadel,  hav- 
ing drawn  out  his  soldiers  under  the 
pretence  of  a  review;  Ezpeleta,  the 
Captain-General,  at  the  same  time 
giving  up  the  fortress  of  Monjuioh. 
(Compare  Figueras  and  Pamplona.) 

After  the  restoration,  this  turbulent 
town,  under  the  Conde  de  EspaSia, 
who  ruled  with  a  rod  of  iron,  quailed 
and  was  quiet,  but  in  1827  it  rose  in 
fiivour  of  Don  Carlos,  and  ever  since 
has  taken  the  lead  against  every  esta- 
blished authority.  General  Lauder 
opened  the  ball  by  opposing  Christina, 
in  1834:  soon  after  Barcelona  **  pro- 
nounced" for  E^partero  in  1840,  and 
against  him  in  1841-2-3.  Being  '*all 
for  itself,"  it  is  in  fact  always  ready 
to  raise  the  banner  of  revolt. 

To  all  but  commercial  travellers  a 
few  days  will  suffice.  The  most  amus- 
ing periods  are  Christmas  and  the  New 
year,  when  all  are  dancing  and  eating, 
especially  a  sort  of  wafers  called  Neulasy 
and  the  almond-cakes  Turrones.  Jan. 
17  is  the  day  of  San  Antonio  Abad, 
the  patron  of  the  lower  Catalans  and 
pigs;  then  quadrupeds  are  blessed. 
Muleteers  and  asses  perform  the  tres 
Toitrs,  a  procession  3  times  round  his 
church  :  observe  their  costume  and 
the  huge  tortells,  a  sort  of  loaf  which 
is  hung  to  their  saddles.  Feb.  12  is 
the  festival  of  the  great  Diana  of  Bar- 
celona, Santa  FulcUia,  when  all  the 
world  goes  out  to  (Une,  dance,  and  play 
the  Sortija,  at  Sarri&  ;  the  toma  boda  is 
repeated  on  the  Sunday  next  ensuing. 
The  Carnival  of  Barcelona,  las  Comes 
tolendaSf  is  to  Spain  what  that  of  Rome 
is  to  Italy :  then  the  Ramibla,  like  the 
Corso,  becomes  a  masquerade  out  of 
doors;  while  the  Thursday,  **Dijou8 
gras  "  ( Jeudi  gras),  is  celebrated  gas- 
tronomically.  On  the  first  day  of 
Lent,  Barcelona  goes  out  of  town  into 
the  country  to  "  bury  the  Carnival," 
**  enterrar  dl  camestoltas,'*  as  the  8ar-  I 


dina  is  disposed  of  at  Madrid.  The 
evening  show,  at  the  Puerta  del  Angelf 
of  the  returning  thousands  is  interest- 
ing, as  to  the  costume  and  manners  of 
the  Catalan,  male  and  female. 

Easter  Monday  is  a  grand  holiday ; 
then  infinite  numbers  po  either  to  Coll 
or  Gracia,  April  23  is  the  day  of  St. 
Greorge,  the  tutelar  of  Catalonia,  when 
a  flower-fair  is  held  near  the  Atidiencia, 
to  which  the  fairer  sex  resort,  them- 
selves the  fairest  flowers.  Nowhere 
is  el  dia  de  Corpus  observed  with  more 
magnificence.  On  San  Juan,  July  25, 
young  and  old  turn  botanists,  and  sally 
forth  cofjer  la  Verbena  for  good  luck; 
San  Pedro,  June  29 ;  Santiago,  July  25; 
and  all  the  festivals  of  the  Virgin, 
are  kept  with  much  splendour.  Nov. 
1,  "  All  Saints'  Day,''  is  honoured  by 
eating  Panellets,  which  are  rafiSed  for 
in  Eifas  in  the  streets :  the  next  day  is 
sacred  to  the  dead,  when  all  the  living 
go  to  visit  the  "  Cementerio  "  outside  the 
walls.  Dec.  21  is  the  fair  of  Barce- 
lona, and  is  frequented  by  the  peasantry 
from  far.  Here  the  artist  wUl  sketch 
the  pretty  payesas  and  their  mocados 
and  holiday  dress :  the  Rambla  is  then 
filled  with  men  and  turkeys,  and  the 
Bocaria,  Call,  Plateru,  and  Moncada 
streets  with  booths  and  purchasers. 

Barcelona  (Pop.  above  150,000)  is  the 
capital  of  its  province,  the  see  of  a 
bishop,  the  residence  of  the  Captain- 
Greneral  and  Jefe  politico,  and  the  seat 
of  an  Atidiencia,  It  has  a  university, 
academies,  and  the  usual  civil,  mili- 
tary, art  and  humanity  establish- 
ments, more  common  otherwise  in  £a- 
ropean  than  Spanish  towns. 

Although  there  are  few  things  more 
repugnant  to  Elnglish  notions  than  all 
that  concerns  Jttsticia  in  Spain,  a  word 
at  which  the  natives  tremble  as  we 
do  at  the  thoughts  of  Chancery,  a 
Howard  may  visit  the  Garcel  Nueva,  or 
spacious  and  well-arranged  New  Prison^ 
built  in  1838-40  ;  the  younger  culprits 
are  here  taught  las  primeras  letraa^ 
to  read  and  write ;  visit  the  sala  de  de^ 
claracion,  where  the  judge  listens  con- 
cealed^ behind  a  grating,  while  the  ac- 
cused is  confronted  with  the  accuser ! 
At  the  Casa  de  Caridad,  founded  in 
1799,  more  than  1000  poor  men,  wo- 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  45. — ^BARCELONA — ^PROMENADES. 


411 


men,  and  children  are  usefully  em- 
ployed. The  Presidioy  or  place  of 
detention  for  convicts,  is  on  a  large 
scale ;  the  culprits  during  the  term  of 
their  confinement  are  instructed  in 
different  trades,  and  receive  half  their 
earnings,  part  at  once,  which  they  ex- 
pend in  tobacco,  and  the  remainder  on 
leaving,  by  which  means  they  are  not 
forced  into  new  crimes  by  being  cast 
without  means  or  character  on  the 
wide  world ;  the  other  half  is  retained 
to  defray  the  general  expenses.  Yet 
little  attempt  at  moral  reformation  is 
made,  and  not  half  are  reclaimed ;  safe 
custody  rather  than  philanthropy  is  the 
principle:  they  arc  tolerably  fed,  as 
well,  indeed,  as  Spanish  soldiers :  they 
sleep  on  the  ground  like  pigs,  on  mats 
in  long  corridors ;  generally  speaking, 
there  is  an  open  grating  at  one  end,  at 
which  sentinels  are  placed  with  ball 
cartridge.  There  is  a  sort  of  school 
for  the  younger  offenders. 

Barcelona  has  its  own  literary 
and  academical  establishments:  there 
is  a  Lancasterian  school,  a  casino 
or  club,  with  newspapers,  reading- 
rooms,  a  liceo,  and  Academia  de  Buenos 
LetraSj  and  some  well-conducted  hospi- 
tals, especially  the  "  General"  That 
of  Sarda  Cnus  may  be  "  walked" 
through  by  a  M.D.,  albeit  the  en- 
trance-wall, decorated  with  the  skulls 
and  bones  of  the  killed  and  wounded, 
presents  unpleasant  prospects  to  pa- 
tients. There  is  a  good  **Biblioteca 
Nacional,*'  Riera  de  San  Juan,  open 
every  morning;  in  this  are  collected 
some  40,000  tomes,  the  remnants  of  the 
Conventual  libraries,  of  which  thou- 
sands of  volumes  were  destroyed  by 
the  mob;  there  is  another  smaller 
library,  the  ^^ Episcopal"  and  a  most 
superb  national  Archivo  de  Aragon,  The 
new  theatre,  the  Liceo,  is  the  finest  in 
Spain.  The  salon  is  superb.  That  of 
Santa  Cruz  is  the  Casino,  The  Museo 
is  at  the  Lonja,  Modem  books  are 
much  wanting ;  in  fact  there  are  '*  no 
funds/'  and  the  Catalan  public  is  no 
great  reader. 

To  understand  the  localities  of  this 
city  the  traveller  should  first  ascend 
the  cathedral  tower  with  his  map,  and 
then  walk  through  the  beautiful  pro- 


menades     with      which      Barcelona 
abounds ;  first,  for  the  interior  is  the 
unrivalled  Rambla ;  then,  for  the  land 
side,  the  Muralla  de  tierra,  which  is 
both  a  walk  and  a  drive.    The  fortifi- 
cations on  this  land  side,  already  ren- 
dered useless,  are  to  be  pulled  down, 
and  the  city  is  to  be  extended  towards 
Grada,  taking  in  the  intervening  plains 
and  villages.    The  Madrid  road  issues 
from  the  Puerta  San  Antonio  ;  beyond, 
the  gardens  and  *^  torres"  extend  to 
Sarria  ;  at  the  Puerta  del  Angel,  a  noble 
walk,   made  in   1824  by  the  M.  de 
Campo-sagrado,  leads  to  Gracia.    The 
road  to  France  issues  from  the  Puerta 
Nueva'  outside  to  the  1.  is  a  wide  ex- 
tent of  densely  peopled  garden  district ; 
to  the  rt.  is  the  citadel,  and  beyond  this 
the    Cementerio,     with    its     catacomb 
niches,  and  a  chapel  built  by  a  Flo- 
rentine   named   Gmessi.       Near    the 
Puerta  Nueva  begins  El  Paseo  Nuevo, 
or  "  El  Lancastrin*  so  called  from  its 
founder,    the    Duque    de    Lancaster. 
The  avenues  are  shady,  and  the  stone 
seats  commodious.     The  ncreids,  tri- 
tons,  royal  busts,  all  chin  and  nose,  and 
sculpture,    are  poor    as  regards  art. 
The  garden  " del  General"  at  the  other 
end,  was  laid  out  by  Castaiios,  in  1816, 
with  pepper-trees,  flower-beds,  statues, 
ponds  with  swans,  and  aviaries.    The 
cold  drinks  at  the  grand  cafe  near  it 
are  delicious.    The  walk  on  the  sea- 
board, on  the  mural  terrace  or  ram- 
part, la  Muralla  del  Mar,  is,  as  at  Pa- 
lermo,   the  fashionabfe  morning   and 
evening  lounge ;  it  is  most  charming, 
being  enlivened  by  flotiUas  of  single-sail 
craft :  sheltered  and  sunny  in  winter, 
and  freshened  by  the  sea-breeze  in  sum- 
mer.   The  modem  Plaza  del  Mar  opens 
to  the  mole,  looking  towards  the  Plaza 
de  Toros,  built  in  1833,  and  Genoese- 
looking  suburb  Barceloneta.  The  Plaza 
del  PcUacio  is  the  resort  of  the  official, 
military,  and  commercial  classes.   The 
environs  of  Barcelona  are  delightful. 
The  sea  and  town  form  the  base  of  a 
rich  plain,  girdled  by  hills,  which  rise 
to  a  mean  height  of  700  feet,  from 
whence  the  bridgeless  Besos  and  the 
tributaries  of  the  Llobregat,  the  bane 
of  the  port,  descend.     This  "  Pla  "  is 
studded    with     **  Torres    y    Huertas,* 

T  2 


*t 


412 


ROUTE  45. — BARCELONA — CATHEDRAL. 


Sect.  VI. 


which  extend  from  the  city  walls  to 
(rracii  and  Sarrid,  the  Hampstead  and 
Clapham  of  the  rich  merchants,  and  the 
Greenwich  of  the  maltitudes,  who  go 
there  on  the  holidays  to  eat  and  dance. 
The  country  and  "views  are  beantiful. 
Among  the  cits'  boxes,  el  Laberinto  and 
that  of  Senor  Anglada,  both  near  fforta, 
are  the  most  renowned ;  calesas  and  car- 
riages are  always  to  be  had  at  the 
Puerta  del  Angel,  to  make  excursions, 
either  over  the  Pla  or  to  the  Baths, 
las  Caldas  de  Monthay,  3  L.  off,  which 
were  taken  in  1844  by  Isabel  II. :  the 
season  is  both  in  spring  and  autumn ; 
the  warm  waters  contain  muriate  and 
sulphate  of  soda,  and  are  beneficial  in 
cutaneous  complaints. 

The  streets  in  the  older  part  of  the 
town  are  narrow  and  tortuous,  shady 
and  sheltered:  they  are  being  gradually 
widened ;  in  the  present  rage  of  mo- 
dernising, convents  are  converted  into 
**  mills ;  and  new  streets  are  built  in 
imitation  of  those  in  the  Rue  Rivoli  at 
Paris,  with  arcades  and  shops,  rather 
than  after  the  old  Catalan  character. 
But  the  Catalans  in  their  present  civili- 
zation mania  reject  the  old  styles  of 
house  and  street  architecture,  well 
suited  to  their  climate  and  habits,  to 
copy  arrangements  calculated  for  other 
zones,  and  totally  different  wants  and 
conditions. 

Visit  la  Plateria,  where  all  this  inno- 
vation has  not  yet  crept  in.  The  form  of 
many  of  the  ornaments  worn  by  the  pea- 
sants is  quite  classical  and  antique,  al- 
though the  work  is  rude  and  coarse. 
Observe  the  huge  earrings  of  ame- 
thysts, the  "  Arracadas"  (an  Arabic 
word  and  thing),  and  the  "Joyas" 
made  with  emeralds  and  coloured 
stones.  The  botanist,  ornithologist, 
and  artist  will,  of  course,  visit  the 
Borne,  or  market  behind  the  Santa 
Maria  del  Mar,  where  all  sorts  of  vege- 
tables and  fruits,  and  birds  of  sea  and 
land,  are  sold  by  picturesque  "  Fay- 
esas"  The  ichthyologist  will  pass  to 
the  Pescaderia,  opposite  the  Aduana, 
where  the  finny  snow  is  magnificent. 
The  new  market  Bocaria  is  built  on  a 
modem  plan,  on  the  site  of  the  convent 
San  Jose — a  Covent-garden. 

The  principal  Roman  antiquities  to 


be  found  in  the  oldest' portion  of  the 
town  are  but  fragments,  having  for  15 
centuries  been  ill-treated  by  Goth, 
Moor,  and  Spaniard.  In  the  Calle  del 
Paradis  some  columns  built  up  by 
houses  are  supposed  to  have  been  the 
termination  of  the  aqueduct  from  Coll- 
cerola,  of  which  an  arch  remains  in 
the  CaUe  de  Capellans:  there  are  6  in 
one  house ;  1  is  seen  in  the  Patio,  3  in 
a  room,  and  2  in  an  upper  garret. 
These  have  been  called  the  tomb  of 
Hercules,  Ataufus,  &c.  Opposite  the 
Puerta  de  Santa  Lucia  of  the  cathedral, 
in  Casa  15,  called  del  Arcediano,  are 
some  Roman  inscriptions,  and  a  good 
sarcophagus  with  hunting  relief^,  now 
used  as  a  water-tank.  A  better  marble, 
with  a  Roman  female,  called  here  Pris- 
cilla,  and  a  head  of  a  Bacchus,  exist  in 
the  Casa  del  Pinos,  Plaza  Cucurella.  The 
plateresque  cinquecento  ornaments  of 
this  ancient  mansion  deserve  notice, 
but  they  have  been  barbarously  white- 
washed. In  the  house  of  Senor  Bails, 
Calle  San  Pedro  Baja,  is  another  sar- 
cophagus, used  also  as  a  tank  ;  in  the 
Academia  de  Buenas  Letras  is  a  collection 
of  pictures  of  no  great  merit,  and  mu- 
tilated antiquities :  a  Proserpine  is  the 
best.  Some  Roman  sewers,  cloacas,  or 
clavequeras,  still  exist  in  the  Calle  de  la 
Boqueria  and  that  de  Jvnqueras:  in  the 
Gefatura  Politica,  on  the  staircase,  is  a 
colossal  female  foot,  said  to  have  been 
part  of  a  Juno. 

In  the  church  of  San  Miguel  is  a 
blue  and  white  Mosaic  Roman  pave- 
ment, with  tritons  and  marine  subjects, 
considered  to  have  belonged  to  a  tem- 
ple of  Neptune;. although  some  have 
thought  it  the  work  of  Greek  artists  of 
the  13th  century.  It  has  been  bar- 
barously mutilated  by  modem  steps, 
tombstones,  &c.  This  church  is  of 
great  antiquity,  having  been  altered  in 
1002 :  the  font  appears  to  be  part  of 
an  ancient  candelabrum.  The  prin- 
cipal portal,  with  a  statue  of  the  tute- 
lar, is  a  mixture  of  the  Norman  and 
Saracenic  styles :  observe  the  square 
pilasters  adorned  with  flowers  and 
vases,  and  a  Roman  inscription  to  one 
Licinius,  let  into  one  of  the  walls.  In 
the  Fonda  del  Sable  is  a  sculptured 
marble,  of  a  low  period  of  art.     In  the 


Catalonia. 


ROUTE  45. — BARCELONA — S^-  EULALIA. 


413 


Calle  de  los  Bauos  are  some  old  Moor- 
ish baths,  converted  into  a  stable  ! 

The  churches  are  very  ancient ;  some 
are  of  singularly  elegant  Gothic,  and 
many  have  the  square  and  polygonal 
belfry.      The  cathedral  la  Seu  or  Seo 
rises  on  the  highest  part  of  the  old 
town,  and  is  built  on  the  site  of  a  pre- 
vious Pagan  temple.      The  Christian 
chapter  naturally  nestled  around,    in 
the  excellent  houses  of  the  Calle  del 
Paradis.    This  cathedral  is  a  type  of 
the  ecclesiastical  architecture  of  Ca- 
talonia :  the  characteristics  are  the  ele- 
vated flight  of  steps  at  the  approach, 
the  belfry  towers,  the  lofty  roof,  sup- 
ported by  slender  elegant  piers,   the 
splendid  painted  glass,  the  semicircular 
colonnade  which  girdles  the  high  altar, 
and  below  it  the  chapel  crypt,  with  its 
elliptical  arch ;  a  profusion  of  Saracens' 
heads  are  used  a^  bosses  and  corbels, 
to  encourage  the  old  crusaders.    The 
infusion  oi  a  Norman  style  cannot  be 
mistaken.     The  principal  fa9ade  is  un- 
finished,  with    a    bold  front,    poorly 
painted  in  stucco,  although  the  rich 
chapter  for  three  centuries  have  re- 
ceived a  fee   on  every   marriage  for 
this  very  purpose  of  completing  it ; 
and  it  is  kept    unfinished   to  justify 
begging    pious  contributions    for    the 
completion.  The  original  cathedral  was 
built  by  Ramon  Berenguer  I.,  on  the 
site  of  an  older  oiie,  dedicated  to  the 
cross.     The  present  edifice  was  begun 
in  1298.     The  coro  and  pulpits  are  of  a 
good  Gothic ;  the  organs  are  of  sober- 
coloured  wood,  with  Saracens'  heads 
beneath.     The  Retablo  Major  is  com- 
posed of  a  dark  stone,  with  pointed 
arches,  and  blue  and  gold  ornaments ; 
the   pillars  which  cluster   around   it, 
forming  an   open  semicircular  frame, 
instead  of  the  usual  solid  walls,  have  a 
very  light  and  elegant  effect.     On  each 
side  is  a  spiral  pillar  of  red  marble, 
supporting  an  angel  with  a  torch :  the 
series  of  connecting  gilt  arches  is  deli- 
cate and  singular;  the  chapels  round 
the  altar  are  churrigueresque,  and  filled 
with  bad  Eetablos,  sculpture,  and  over- 
gilding.    In  a  chapel  crypt  below  the 
high   altar,  like  the  sepulchre  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Rome,  lies,  or  is  said  to  lie, 
the  body  of  Santa  Euktliay  the  '*  well- 


•  speaking"  Patrona  of  the  city,  to  whom 
the  present  cathedral  is  dedicated.  This 
lady  mnst  not  be  confounded  with  her 
namesake  of  Merida,  and  her  name,  £f- 
XaX'tMy  indicates  her  Byzantine  origin. 
Female  saints  are  more  common,  how- 
ever, in  Mariolatrous  Spain  than  in  the 
Greek  church,  where  the  Oriental  low 
estimate  of  women  prevails. 

"  Esta  68  Eulalia^  la  de  Barcelona, 
De  la  rica  Ciudad,  lajoya  rica ! " 

Her  authentic  life  is  written  by  Ramon 
de  Ponsich  y  Camps,  4to.  Madrid, 
1770:  put  to  death  Feb.  12,  304,  by 
Dacian,  her  soul  ascended  to  heaven 
visibly  in  the  form  of  a  dove,  while  her 
body  was  in  due  time  miraculously  re- 
vealed by  its  perfume  in  878  to  Bishop 
J'rodoyno,  who  carried  the  sweet  oorj)se 
to  the  cathedral.  The  present  chapel 
was  finished  in  1339  by  Jayme  Fabra, 
when  the  precious  corpse  was  placed  in 
it,  2  kings,  3  queens,  4  princesses,  car- 
dinals, and  smaller  deer,  attending  (see 
CampSy  p.  4.56).  Their  sculptured  heads 
form  the  fringe  of  the  elliptical  arch 
above  the  descent;  the  sepulchre  was 
raised  on  spiral  pillars  of  antique  jas- 
pers with  Corinthian  capitals,  taken 
from  some  ancient  temple.  The  curious 
inscription  round  the  rim  is  ^iven  in  the 
Esp.  Sag.  xxix.  320.  The  silver  lamps 
were  appropriated  by  the  invaders, 
with  much  of  the  sacred  plate  of  the 
cathedral,  once  both  ancient  and  mag- 
nificent. The  chapter  paid  to  the  in- 
vaders 40,000  libras  Catalanas  to  pre- 
serve it,  who  took  the  money  first,  and 
plate  next :  V8b  victis !  The  fine  gold  or 
gilt  Custodia  in  the  Sacristia  alone 
escaped.  Observe  it  well.  On  the  base 
is  represented  the  entry  of  Juan  II.  into 
Perpilian,  Oct.  28,  1473,  after  he  had 
defeated  the  French  besiegers. 

Ramon  Berenguer,  and  his  wife  Al- 
mudis,  are  buried  near  the  Sacristia: 
their  tombs  were  restored  in  154.5.  A 
gallery  above  the  piers  has  a  pretty 
,  engrailed  border.  The  order  of  Mon- 
tesa  was  instituted  in  this  cathedral, 
July  22,  1319,  and  here,  in  1519, 
Charles  V.  celebrated  an  installation  of 
the  Golden  Fleece,  the  only  one  ever 
held  in  Spain ;  and  in  truth  that  Bur- 
gundian  order  passed  away  with  the 


414 


ROUTE  45. — BARCELONA — CHURCHES. 


Sect.  VI. 


Austrian  dynasty,  although  claimed  and 
used  by  the  Bourbon  kings  of  Spain. 
The  arms  of  the  Knights  Companions, 
and  of  our  Henry  VIII.  among  them, 
are  blazoned  on  the  stalls.  Observe 
the  silleri  i  and  the  painted  glass.  San 
Oldegar  lies  buried  in  his  own  chapel 
to  the  rt.  on  entering :  observe  his  tomb, 
and  also  his  statue  m  the  trascoro,  with 
marble  reliefs  of  the  Martyrdom  of 
Santa  Eidalia,  set  in  a  Doric  framework. 
San  Oldegar  was  a  Frenchman,  and 
died  in  1137;  his  body  was  miracu- 
lously discovered  about  500  years  after- 
wards, quite  fragrant,  and  uncorrupted 
all  but  the  tip  of  the  nose  (see  Esp, 
Sig.,  xxix.  277).  The  painting  by 
Villodomat  is  better  worth  notice. 
Made  a  saint  by  Innocent  XI.  in  1675, 
he  since  has  been  tutelar  of  the  Cata- 
lans, being  invoked  in  the  common 
cases  of  childbirth,  and  the  rare  loss  of 
speech  in  women.  His  biographies, 
besides  that  in  the  *  Espaiia  Sagrada* 
are  numerous :  select  that  by  Antonio 
J.  G.  de  Caralps,  4to.,  Bare.  1617,  or 
an  earlier  in  8vo.,  by  Jaime  RebuUoso, 
Bare.  1609.  ' 

The  cathedral  has  two  noble  light 
towers ;  the  arched  support  of  that  with 
the  clock  deserves  notice:  the  great 
bell  was  cast  in  1393:  the  panorama 
from  the  summit  is  glorious ;  flocks  of 
pigeons,  as  at  Valencia,  fly  about,  being 
forced  by  their  proprietors  on  the 
house-tops  to  thus  air  themselves.  Near 
the  door  of  ascent  is  the  elegant  Gothic 
cloister  with  its  faded  frescoes  and 
pleasant  court  of  oranges  and  spark- 
ling waters ;  let  in  the  walls  are  some 
curious  sepulchral  stones,  dating  from 
the  12th  to  the  14th  century.  Here 
was  the  canonical  aviary  in  which  cer- 
tain sacred  geese  were  kept  like  those 
of  the  Roman  capitol.  Notice  the 
Fuente  de  las  ocas. 

Observe  the  sculptured  effigies  of 
tailors  with  their  shears,  and  boot- 
makers with  their  boots.  The  guild 
of  the  latter,  el  gremio  de  los  Zapaiteros, 
in  1208,  were  benefactors  to  the  cathe- 
dral. Descending  the  great  steps  is 
their  casaj  covered  with  symbols  and 
their  patron  San  Marcos,  preferred 
by  the  orthodox  Catalans  to  our  St. 
Crispin.     To  the  rt.  of  the  cathedral 


steps  is  the  Gothic  Alnwyna,  the  canon's 
Almonry ;  near  the  cathedral  is  the 
Plaza  del  Rey^  and  the  ancient  palace  of 
the  Gothic  kings.  It  was  given  in 
1487  by  Ferdinand  to  the  Inqaisition, 
just  as  he  had  made  over  the  royal  re- 
sidence at  Zaragoza,  in  the  hope  that 
loyal  associations  might  induce  obe- 
dience to  this  new  tribunal,  which  he 
destined  to  be  an  engine  of  police  and 
finance.  It  afterwards  became  the 
palace  of  the  Viceroy,  and  then  a  con- 
vent and  prison.  In  the  Archivito  of 
the  cathedral  are  some  curious  re- 
cords of  religious  festivals,  called 
Exemplaria. 

Second,  and  closely  analogous  to  the 
cathedral,  is  the  fine  church  la  Santa 
Maria  del  Mar,  erected  on  the  site  of  a 
chapel  of  the  Goths.  Inscriptions  near 
the  S.  door  record  the  date  of  the  re- 
building, 1328;  it  was  finished  in 
1483.  The  style  is  very  elegant,  the 
piers  airy  and  lofty ;  the  painted  glass 
rich  in  greens,  blues,  and  reds.  The 
gilded  royal  pew  faces  the  overgrown, 
overdone  organ.  Observe  the  semi- 
circular framework  of  pillars  that 
surrounds  the  high  altar,  which,  un- 
fortunately, was  modernized  in  1843, 
with  red  marbles,  gilt  capitals,  and 
tawdry  sculptured  angels  and  the 
Virgin ;  to  the  rt.  is  a  good  statue  of 
San  Alejo,  and  in  the  Respaldo  del  CorOy 
some  pictures  by  Villodomat,  repre- 
senting the  Passion  of  Christ. 

San  Pablo  del  CampOy  so  called  be- 
cause once  outside  the  town,  like  our 
St.  Martin's-in-the-Fields  at  Charing- 
cross,  resembles  the  San  Pablo  at  Tar- 
ragona (p.  405),  and  is  akin  to  some  of 
the  primitive  churches  in  Gallicia.  It 
was  built  in  913  by  Wilfred  II.,  as  an  in- 
scription let  in  the  wall  near  the  cloister 
shows.  Observe  the  small  double  clus- 
tering pillars  with  engrailed  arches, 
the  Norman  romanesque  capitals  of 
boars,  griffins,  and  leaves. 

San  Pere  de  las  Puellas  was  built  in 
980  by  Count  Sunario  after  the  same 
style  as  San  Pablo,  when  the  earlier 
church,  erected  by  Louis  le  Debon- 
naire,  was  destroyed  by  Al-Mansi$r. 
Observe  the  singular  capitals,  in  one 
of  which  the  prickly  pear  is  intro- 
duced: the  women,  when  at  mass  in 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  45. — BARCELONA — HOUSES. 


415 


this  low  dark  church,  muffled  in  their 
white  mantalinas  de  punta,  look  like  the 
dead  in  shrouds.  The  ecclesiastical 
archaiologist  will  visit  SaTiia  Ana, 
built  in  1146,  in  the  form  of  a  cross, 
by  Guillermo  II.,  patriarch  of  Jeru- 
salem, and  in  imitation  of  the  church 
of  the  Sepulchre;  unfortunately,  the 
transept  and  Preshiterio  have  been  mo- 
dernised. San  Jaime,  built  in  1394, 
has  a  noble  nave.  San  Cucufat  (Cata- 
lonice  CiUgat)  was  built  in  1297  on  the 
spot  where  the  tutelar  was  baked, 
which  is  hence  called  del  homo:  he 
was  martyrised  by  Dacian,  July  25, 
by  being  partly  broiled  on  a  grid- 
iron, but  when  his  prayers  put  out 
the  fire,  he  was  beheaded.  His  body 
turned  up  miraculously  at  St.  Denis,  in 
France,  and  was  given  by  Louis  le 
Debonnaire  to  protect  Barcelona  from 
the  Moors ;  part  of  it  was  also  taken 
to  Santiago.  This  Barcelonese  tutelar's 
old  church  was  unfortunately  rebuilt 
in  1827. 

The  single  nave  at  San  Just  y  Pastor 
is  fine :  built  in  1345  on  the  site  of  an 
earlier  church,  founded  by  Santiago  ! 
it  possessed  many  privileges,  e.  g.  in 
disputed  cases  of  duels,  sailors*  wills, 
and  Christians  cheated  by  Jews.  San 
Agustin  is  a  modem  edifice,  erected  in 
1750,  and  of  no  merit,  although  much 
more  admired  by  the  natives  than 
these  venerable  piles,  which  they 
either  degrade  or  destroy.  Somia  Maria 
del  Pi,  built  in  1380,  has  a  noble  single 
nave,  a  rich  portal,  and  fine  tower.  In 
the  Capilla  San  Miguel  is  buried  An- 
tonio Villodomat,  the  only  painter  of 
whom  cotton-spinning  Catalonia  can 
boast;  born  1678,  ob.  1756,  the  last 
ray  of  Murillo  lighted  on  his  pallet : 
his  style  is  simple,  his  drawing  correct, 
his  colouring  rich  and  natural.  His 
works  are  seldom  to  be  met  with  out  of 
Barcelona,  where  they  are  but  little 
appreciated.  Few  great  towns  possess 
fewer  pictures  than  this  rich  mart  of 
money-making  cotton-spinners.  The 
finest  works  of  Villodomat,  now  at  the 
Lonja,  20  in  number,  and  representing 
the  life  of  the  tutelar,  were  placed 
in  the  noble  cloisters  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan convent,  burnt  by  the  mob  in 
1835.    These  cloisters,  when  we  saw 


them,  were  also  filled  with  curious 
tombs  of  the  12th,  13th,  and  14th 
centuries;  the  sepulchres  of  the  Ar- 
ragonese  royal  family,  which  stood 
on  each  side  of  the  altar,  were  de- 
stroyed by  the  constitutionalists  in 
1 823.  San  Francisco  is  said  himself  to 
have  visited  this  convent,  and  his  cell 
was  shown  in  a  small  patio,  and  in- 
scribed "  Cella  Fratris  Francisci  de 
Assisi,  anno  1211.'*  In  the  Colegiata 
Sta.  Ana  observe  the  quiet  cloister  and 
sepulchre  of  Miguel  Bohera ;  in  San 
Belem,  formerly  the  Jesuitas,  a  speci- 
men of  Italian  masonry,  are  some  rich 
marbles,  some  pictures  ascribed  to  Vil- 
lodomat, and  the  identical  sword  of- 
fered by  Loyola  on  the  altar  of  the 
Virgin  at  Monserrat. 

The  architect  and  antiquarian  may 
examine  among  the  public  and  private 
buildings  the  ■  Casa  de  Ihtsai,  Calle  del 
Regomir ;  the  rich  Patio,  with  its  clas- 
sical pillars  and  sculpture,  ascribed 
to  Daniel  Forment,  is  now  a  dyer's 
yard  !  In  the  house  of  the  Cardonas, 
near  the  Bajada  de  San  Miguel,  is 
another  fine  patio.  Observe  also  the 
staircase,  the  elaborate  roof,  the  spiry 
pillars,  window  decorations,  carvings, 
and  coats  of  arms.  The  fa9ade  and 
patio  of  the  Casa  Medina  Celi,  is  in 
rich  plateresque ;  the  house  of  Grallq, 
y  Despla  (Calle  Puerta  Ferrisa)  is  of  the 
15th  and  16th  centuries.  El  Palav, 
Calle  dels  Templaris,  belonged  first  to 
the  Templars,  and  then  became  the 
palace  of  the  wives  of  the  Counts  of 
Barcelona.  The  chapel  was  public, 
and  marvellously  endowed  with  in- 
dulgences, because  the  prow  of  the 
galley  Victoria,  in  which  Don  John  of 
Austria  commanded  at  the  battle  of 
Lepanto,  was  placed  there.  The  m(- 
diencia  or  diputacion,  founded  in  1365, 
was  rebuilt  in  1609  by  Pedro  Blay,  in 
the  Herrera  style :  the  much-admired 
front  is  disfigured  by  square  port- 
hole windows.  Here  the  "  Hegente  " 
or  chief  justice  presides.  The  ceiling, 
and  portraits  of  the  Condes  of  Bar- 
celona arranged  in  the  court  or  Sala, 
deserve  notice :  here  are  kept  the  ar- 
chives of  Arragon,  the  finest  in  Spain ; 
exceeding  8000  volumes,  and  coming 
down  from  the  year  874.    Thanks  to 


416 


ROUTE  45. — ^BARCELONA — ^PORT. 


Sect.  VI. 


the  industry  and  learning  of  their 
worthy  keeper  Don  Prospero  Bofarull, 
they  are  admirably  arranged,  and  are 
mines  of  historical  information:  the 
original  court-yard  is  preserved,  with 
precious  specimens  of  elegant  Gothic 
work.  The  public  is  admitted  to  see 
the  saloons  on  St.  George's  Day.  The 
C'iisi  consistorial,  built  in  1369-73,  pos- 
sesses an  equally  beautiful  patio :  ob- 
serve the  twisted  pillars,  the  rich  de- 
tails of  windows,  doors,  and  the  Doric 
fa9ade  of  the  front  which  overlooks 
the  garden.  The  municipal  archives 
are  curious.  The  towers  of  the  Bishop's 
Palace  are  said  by  some  to  be  Phoeni- 
cian, but  they  are  more  probably  medise- 
val.  Opposite  S-m  Agustin  is  an  elegant 
Doric  portal  of  the  Herrera  period. 
The  Aljami  or  Jews'  quarter  extended 
from  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  to  the 
Calle  del  Call.  The  rich  inhabitants 
were  massacred  and  their  houses  de- 
stroyed in  Aug.  1391,  by  the  mob,  in- 
stigated by  San  Vicente  de  Ferrer. 

The  Captain-General  lives  in  the 
*'  real  Palacio"  on  its  Plaza.  The 
edifice  was  built  by  the  city  in  1444 
for  a  cloth  hall,  "  Halla  des  drops/*  but 
in  1514,  when  foreign  wars  destroyed 
trade,  this  hall  was  turned  into  an 
armoury.  In  1652  Philip  IV.  con- 
fiscated the  building  and,  to  punish  the 
rebelHous  citizens,  made  it  the  re- 
sidence of  his  viceroy ;  it  was  mo- 
dernized by  Roncali,  an  architect  who 
laid  many  a  heavy  load  on  the  Cata- 
lan soil.  The  modem  spick-and-span 
new  palace  is  in  very  poor  taste. 
This  plaza  was  much  exposed  to  the 
bombardments  of  Sept.  1843,  espe- 
cially the  Casa  Lonja,  or  "  Long 
Koom,"  of  the  exchange,  once  a  superb 
Gothic  pile,  and  built  in  1383;  this 
gem  was  **  beautified"  in  1770  by  .the 
corporation,  who  employed  a  French 
architect,  of  whose  improvements  even 
the  municipality  were  so  ashamed  that 
they  pulled  them  down.  The  existing 
pile,  reared  in  1772  by  Juan  Soler,  is 
heavy,  has  many  facades,  a  Tuscan 
portal,  and  arched  terrace ;  a  noble 
Gothic-pillared  saloon  in  the  interior 
has  fortunately  been  spared :  the  patio 
contains  some  second-rate  marble 
statues  of  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  and 


America,  by  Bover  and  Olive:  the 
Neptune  and  dolphins  of  the  fountain 
are  by  Travea  and  Sola,  and  the  statues 
on  the  fine  staircase,  of  Commerce  and 
Industry,  are  by  one  Gurri.  In  the 
large  Eodoon  are  a  Laocoon  and  a 
statue  of  an  Aragonese  soldier,  by  Cam- 
peny,  and  two  gladiators  by  Bover, 
but  the  whole  lot  are  very  ordinary. 
The  frescoes  in  the  Sala  de  Sesiones, 
the  portrait  of  the  Queen,  and  the 
other  statues  by  Campeny,  are  not 
much  better;  indeed  inside  and  out- 
side everything  bespeaks  mediocrity 
of  art,  notwithstanding  the  gratuitous 
schools  which  are  opened  here,  and  the 
lectures  which  are  delivered  on  the 
various  branches  of  knowledge  at  the 
expense  of  the  Junta  de  Comercio.  Two 
rooms  are  set  aside  for  a  w»/seo.  Ob- 
serve the  paintings  by  Villodomat  res- 
cued from  the  destroyed  convent  of 
San  Francisco,  especially  those  por- 
traying the  Statutes,  the  Supper,  and 
Sta.  Clara;  the  glass  of  Water,  and 
the  Stigmata.  The  Museo  Salvador  con- 
tains a  good  Herbarium,  and  some  Spa- 
nish swords  of  the  rare  Perrillo  brand. 

The  adjoining  aduatM,  was  built  in 
1792,  by  Count  Roncali;  here  is  the 
Tuscan  again,  and  heaviness  ad  nau- 
seam; the  vexations  its  criticism  en- 
tailed on  the  designer  caused  his  death 
in  1794.  Since  the  Norman-Gothic 
period,  Barcelona,  like  Cadiz,  has  pro- 
duced few  eminent  men.  In  early  times 
the  Jews  were  by  far  the  most  pre- 
eminent. Among  men  of  literary  merit 
may  be  cited  Masdeu  the  antiquarian, 
and  Capmany  the  political  economist. 

The  Felucca-crowded  port  of  Bar- 
celona, opposite  this  plaza,  is  spacious ; 
never  good,  as  exposed  to  the  S.,  it  is 
subject  to  be  choked  up  by  deposits 
from  the  river.  A  mole,  begun  by  the 
citizens  in  1439,  was  carried  away  by 
the  scfa;  they  then  employed,  in  1477, 
an  engineer,  from  Egypt,  named  Stacio^ 
whose  work,  strengthened  from  time  to 
time  from  the  quarries  of  Monjuich, 
was  improved  in  1802,  by  one  John 
Smith  of  Tarragona  During  the  Penin- 
sular war,  when  the  Mediterranean 
became  an  **  English  lake,"  the  port 
being  useliiss,  was  neglected  and  almost 
ruined.     Some  sums  have  since  been 


Catalonia.       route  46. — Barcelona — fortifications. 


417 


laid  out  in  cleansing  it.  Here,  Jan.  1 7, 
1543,  the  first  now  so-called  steamer 
ever  made  was  launched,  by  Blasco  de 
Garay,  in  the  presence  of  Charles  V., 
but  his  treasurer,  one  Ravago,  opposed 
the  invention,  which  fell  to  the  ground. 
Touching  this  Spanish  "  invention,"  in 
real  truth  the  rejected  plan  was  simply 
to  give  motion  to  the  paddles  by 
"  men,**  nor  was  steam  ever  dreamed  of. 
The  whole  correspondence  is  preserved 
at  Simancas.  The  unfounded  claim  was 
well  known  in  Spain,  but  Espanolisma 
kept  up  the  cheat  for  the  honour  of 
Nosotros,  who  now  call  their  steamers 
(hailt  by  the  way  in  England),  Blasco- 
de-Garays!  In  1830,  when  English 
steamers  first  navigated  the  Guadal- 
quivir, the  time  bills  announced  that 
**  a  mass  was  said  before  starting"  in 
the  dangerous,  heretical  locomotive. 

There  are  no  want  of  stone  defences 
and  fortifications.  The  port  is  guarded 
to  the  1.  by  the  "  Ciudadela  *'  and  the 
fort  San  Carlos,  The  former,  destined  to 
oppre&s,not  toprotect  them,  was  erected 
in  1715  by  the  French  under  Philip  V., 
as  a  Bastile  to  cage  the  wild  Catalans 
and  terrorize  the  citizens.  In  a  mili- 
tary point  of  view  it  is  of  no  great 
value,  being  commanded  by  Montjuich. 
The  Bourbon,  in  order  to  erect  it, 
razed  37  streets,  3  churches,  and  2000 
houses.  The  form  is  pentagonal,  laid 
out  after  the  system  of  Vauban.  There 
is  a  spacious  esplanade,  barracks, 
and  chapel  inside,  designed  by  Ron- 
cali,  capable  of  containing  8000  men ; 
but  in  1808  garrisoned  bjr  only  20 ! 
This  citadel,  an  abomination  m  the 
eyes  of  the  town's  folk,  is  a  bridle  in 
their  mouths,  and  prevents  the  city's  in- 
creasing to  its  full  commercial  growth : 
hence  the  constant  attempts  to  pull  it 
down.  The  cortinas  del  Bey,  y  de  la 
BeynOf  which  face  the  town  were  de- 
molished in  Oct.,  1841,  when  the  munir 
cipality,  having  first  promised  Zabala 
to  protect  it,  actually  led  the  way  in 
the  destruction,  each  member  carrying 
away  a  stone  in  triumph  I 

To  compensate  for  the  district  de- 
stroyed by  Philip  V.,  one  Pedro  Cer- 
meiio  was  employed  in  1755-78  by  the 
Marques  de  la  Mina  to  raise  this  new 
suburb  called  Barcehnetu,    The  streets 


run  in  straight  lines ;  the  houses  are  low 
and  painted  red,  with  a  Genoese  look, 
and  tenanted  by  shipbuilders,  dealers  in 
I  marine  stores,  fishermen,  and  washer-r 
women.  The  church,  San  Miguel,  is 
built  in  defiance  of  the  beautiful  ex- 
emplars of  better  times  ;  and  the  worth- 
less sculpture,  by  one  Costa,  is  wortliy 
of  San  Telmo,  the  Spanish  marine  tute- 
lar. The  tomb  of  the  Marques,  by  Juan 
Henrich,  is  heavy,  in  spite  of  his  por-^ 
trait,  in  marble,  and  a  flaming  epitaph : 
'*  In  acie  fu^men,  in  aula  fiamen.** 

The  eminence  Monjuich  defends  and 
commands  Barcelona  to  the  rt.  It  was 
the  Mons  Jovis  of  the  Rpmans ;  the 
3fons  Judaicus  of  the  middle  ages,  being 
the  residence  of  the  Jews;  and  some 
strangely?inscribed  tombstones  are  yet 
to  be  seen  underneath  it.  The  present 
name  may  be  derived  from  either  of  the 
former  appellations.  The  tertiary  red- 
dish hill  is  approached  by  ^  fine  zigzag 
road  constructed  by  Roncali.  The  su? 
perb  fortifications  are  very  strong, 
shaped  in  an  irregular  pentagon,  and 
weU  provided  with  cisterns  and  case- 
mates. The  panorama,  with  the  prpsr 
trate  city  at  its  feet  and  mercy,  is  mag? 
nificent.  In  the  War  of  the  Succession 
this  apparently  inaccessible  and  im- 
pregnable fortress  was  surprised  and 
taken,  Sept.  14,  1705,  by  Lord  Peter^ 
borough,  one  of  the  most  brilliant  feats 
of  that  chivalrous  commander,  the  Don 
Quixote  of  history.  This  result  of 
deep  design  and  daring  is  now  as- 
cribed, by  Spaniards,  to  "  the  acci- 
dent **  of  a  bomb  falling  on  a  powder 
magazine  1 1  (Madoz,  i.  590.)  Mean- 
time by  some  other  accident  it  was  sur- 
rendered to  the  French  by  Mina,  Nov. 
2,  1823,  after  only  a  sham-fight !  The 
truthful  details  of  Peterborough's  feat, 
more  romantic  than  fiction,  and  which 
entailed  the  conquest  of  Barcelona  and 
the  kingdom  of  Valencia,  are  given  by 
Lord  Mahon,  in  his  4th  chapter  of  the 
History  of  that  war.  For  the  official 
documents  consult  Dr.  Friend*s  Ac- 
count, p.  46,  2nd  ed.  London,  1707  ; 
and  Capt.  Carleton's  Military  Memoirs, 
p.  96.  London,  1728,— a  work  incor- 
rectly attributed  to  Daniel  De  Foe. 

Lord  Peterborough  was  the  beau 
ideal  of  a  partisan  leader  and  the  spoils 

T  3 


418 


ROUTE  46. — BARCELONA  TO  URGEL. 


Sect.  VI. 


child  of  both  Victory,  Mars,  Venus, 
and  Minerva ;  generous,  chivalrous, 
and  eccentric,  and  fond  of  glory  as  a 
Nelson,  no  one  ever  better  understood 
the  Spaniards,  and  had  his  counsels 
been  followed  he  would  have  placed  the 
Archduke  Charles  on  the  throne  ;  but 
he  was  thwarted  by  the  incapacity  of 
that  dull  Austrian,  by  the  slowness  of 
the  Germans,  and  bickerines  amons 
the  English.  No  sooner  had  he  retired 
in  disgust  than  things  went  wrong,  and 
ended  in  the  defeats  of  Almanza  and 
Villa  Viciosa. 

It  was  from  these  batteries  that  Barce- 
lona was  bombarded  in  the  "  Liesseps  " 
insurrection,  1842 ;  and  again  in  the 
Pronunci' tmietito  of  1 843.  The  Ataraza- 
nas,  or  arsenal  below,  were  constructed 
by  Jaime  the  Conqueror,  for  the  royal 
navy,  and  finished  in  1243.  The 
foundry  was  added  in  1378  ;  a  portion 
of  it  yet  remains.  It  was  much  im- 
proved under  Charles  III.  bj  one 
Mariz,  a  Swiss.  The  rambling  ill-fur- 
nished establishments  and  barracks 
cover  a  large  space,  and  have  been 
erected  from  time  to  time.  The  Sdla 
de  his  Arm'is  is  more  extensive  than  the 
usual  supply  of  arms  or  ammunition  in 
it ;  the  heraldic  arms  of  Barcelona  are, 
or,  4  bars  gules,  with  St.  George's  cross 
argent.  These  were  the  bearings  of  the 
old  counts,  and  are  said  to  have  been 
assumed  by  Wilfred  el  velloso  (he  had 
hair  on  the  soles  of  his  feet) :  after  a 
battle  with  the  Normans  he  drew  his 
bloody  fingers  over  his  shield — a  truly 
soldier-like  blazon  ;  crvar  horrida  tinxe- 
rat  anna, 

•Communications  with  Barcelona, 
AND  Excursions. 

There  is  much  talk  of  railroads  to 
Tortosa,  Pedralbes,  and  Zaragoza; 
meanwhile  there  are  frequent  public 
conveyances  on  the  high  roads  which 
centre  in  Barcelona,  while  regular 
steamers  ply  up  the  coast  to  Marseilles 
in  about  24  h.,  and  down  to  Cadiz, 
touching  at  the  principal  maritime 
cities  between  each  terminm. 

No  one  should  omit  to  make  the 
excursion  to  the  monastery  Monserrat 
and  the  salt-mines  of  Cardona,    Those 

■oceeding   to   Zaragoza  may  secure 


their  places  some  6  days  beforehand,  and 
having  visited  the  salt-mines,  strike 
off  from  Manresa,  and  take  up  the 
diligence  on  the  high  road  at  Igtuxlada. 
Those  going  to  France,  and  wishing  to 
see  the  Pyrenean  portion  of  Catalonia, 
ma;^  extend  the  excursion  to  Urgel, 
falling  into  the  high  road  either  at 
Figueras  or  Gerona. 

Monserrat  by  itself  may  be  conve- 
niently visited  by  going  in  one  of  the 
diligences  to  Madnd,  setting  down  at 
the  Meson  de  la  jufnada,  1  L.  from  Es- 
parraguera'j  proceeding  thence  to  Col- 
hatOy  putting  up  at  the  Postal  nou,  or 
Posada  Nueva,  a  comfortable  inn  kept 
by  Pedro  Bacarisa,  a  worthy  man  and 
excellent  guide,  who  can  procure 
Bengal  lights  for  the  Cueva,  and 
donkeys  and  mules  for  the  ascent  to  the 
convent  (3  h.),  and  to  the  hermitage 
San  Oeronimo,  and  other  **  lions  ;**  re- 
turning to  Barcelona  by  the  same 
route. 


Route  46. — ^Barcelona  to  IlBGhEL. 

Molins  del  Rey      ...  3 

Martorell 2  . .       5 

Monserrat  .     .     •     .     •  3  ..       8 

Manresa 4  ..  12 

Suria 4  ..  16 

Cardona 3  ..  19 

Solsona 3  ..  22 

Oliana 3  ..  25 

Orgafid 5  ..  30 

Urgel 4i  ..  34i 

This  entire  tour,  full  of  interest  to 
the  naturalist,  artist,  and  sportsman, 
can  only  be  ridden.  From  Urgel  it 
may  be  extended  into  the  Spanish  Py- 
renees. As  the  accommodations  are 
alpine,  take  local  guides,  and  attend  to 
the  provend.  The  summer  months  are 
best  for  this  excursion.  The  mountain 
roads  are  bad  and  intricate.  In  the 
plains  a  tedious  communication  is  kept 
up  by  galeras  and  carahca. 

The  traveller  should  leave  Barcelona 
by  the  Piierta  de  Santa  Madrona,  as  the 
guns  of  Moujuich  salute  the  risine 
sun ;  retrace  the  route  to  Molins  del 
Rey  (p.  407).  At  Martorell,  Tolobris, 
Posada  de  la  Cruz, — is  a  bridge  over  the 
Llobregat,  which  is  attributed  to  Han- 
nibal by  the  learned,  and  to  the  devil, 
as  usual,  by  the  vulgar.    The  pointed 


Catalonia, 


BOUTJi:  46. — ESPARRAGUERA — SOMATENES. 


419 


centre  arch,  steep  and  narrow  to  pass, 
133  feet  wide  in  the  span,  is  a  work  of 
the  Moors  ;  the  triumphal  arch  is  I^o- 
man:  however  corroded  by  time  the 
foundations  are  perfect,  and  wrought 
with  bossage  masonry,  as  at  Meridaand 
Alcantara.  There  is  much  such  another 
over  the  Tech,  at  Ceret,  idso  ascribed 
to  his  Satanic  majesty,  the  Pontifex 
maximus  of  the  Peninsula.  Accord- 
ing to  an  inscription,  this  bridge  at 
Martorell  was  built  Ly  Hannibal,  636 
u.c.  in  honour  of  Amilcar.  It  was 
restored  in  1768  by  Charles  III. 
After  passing  the  river  Noya,  which 
flows  down  from  Ignalada  into  the 
Llobregat,  the  mountain  ^eleton  Mon- 
serrat  rises  nobly  out  of  its  wooded 
base:  the  convent,  with  its  cypresses 
and  gardens,  is  soon  seen  in  the  mid- 
way height. 

Esparraguera,  6  L.  from  Barcelona, 
Pop.  2500,  is  a  dingy,  dirty  town,  of 
solid  houses  in  a  pleasant,  healthy  val* 
ley.  The  window  ornaments  and  fine 
projecting-roof  soffits  are  quite  Arragon- 
ese.  The  celebrated  sulphur-bat^  of 
Za  Puda  are  close  by,  and  most  pictur- 
esquely situated.  The  high  road  to 
Zaragoza  keeps  to  the  rt.  through 
Colhato  and  Bruch :  at  the  latter  site  me 
Catalan  peasantry  first  defeated  the 
French.  Schwartz  was  sent,  June  5, 
1808,  by  Duhesme  to  terrorise  Man- 
resa,  where  the  standard  of  Catalan 
resistance  had  first  been  hoisted.  The 
blundering  Swiss  lost  a  day  at  Marto- 
rell; thus  time  was  given  for  the 
somateuj  or  tocsin,  to  be  rung,  and  the 
armed  peasantry  collected,  headed  by  a 
merchant  named  Francisco  Riera,  when 
Schwartz,  taking  fright  at  a  drum- 
mer-boy's tattoo,  and  mncying  that  he 
was  met  by  regular  troops,  fell  back 
when  he  ought  to  have  advanced. 
The  Catalan  guerrilleros,  called  Soma- 
tenes,  from  this  bell,  were  always  re- 
nowned for  the  unwarlike  warfare  of 
border  foray  ;  for  such  is  the  meaning 
of  another  of  their  names  Almogavares, 
frontier  soldiers,  Arabic^  Qhawara ; 
others  derive  the  Catalan  word  from 
som  attentSy  we  are  ready ;  the  answer 
given  to  the  summons  at  each  house, 
via  fora,  come  forth. 

From  Colhato  proceed  under  the  care  of 


Pedro  Bacarisa  up  the  mountain,  which 
after  all  is  the  grand  object,  although 
the  Convent,  the  cradle  of  Jesuitism,  is 
now  laid  in  ruin ;  more  so  indeed  than 
the  evil  spirit  hatched  in  that  den. 

The  extraordinary  mountain  is  called 
Monserrat,  quasi  "  Mons  Serratus,** 
li^mMTos,  and  it  is,  indeed,  jagged  as 
a  saw.  The  legends  say  that  it  was 
thus  rent  at  the  moment  of  the  cruci- 
fixion. It  rises  an  isolated  grey  mass, 
chiefly  of  pudding-stone,  being  some 
8  L.  in  circumference.  The  pinnacles 
range  about  3800  feet  high.  The  out- 
line is  most  fantastic,  consisting  of 
cones,  pyramids,  buttresses,  nine-pins 
sugar-loaves,  which  are  here  jumbled 
by  nature  in  a  sportive  mood.  Justly, 
therefore,  did  the  convent  bear  on  its 
seal  a  cluster  of  hiUs,  crowned  by  a 
saw,  a  crosier,  and  a  mitre.  More  than 
200  different  plants  grow  here.  The 
box-trees  are  magnificent:  from  these 
the  monks  carved  spoons,  which, 
stained  red,  were  sold  to  the  lean  pil- 
grims to  assist  digestion,  and  as  nothing 
eaten  out  of  them  ever  disagreed,  such 
spoons  might  grace  a  lord  mayor's 
feast.  On  the  Virgin's  day,  Sept.  8, 
sometimes  3000  people  went  up  to  her 
shrine.  The  Catalans  believed  that 
this  high  place  was  selected  as  the 
throne  on  earth  for  the  queen  of 
heaven  and  angels.  No  wonder  the 
monks,  as  saysliisco,  writing  in  1774 
(E.  S.  xxviii.  43),  became  the  Virgin 
queen's  "  own  regiment,  and  the  her- 
mits her  advanced  sentinels  and  skir- 
mishers ;"  nor  had  the  Evil  One,  until 
the  French  invasion,  the  slightest 
chance. 

There  are  many  ascents,  all  easy,  and 
fitted  for  monastic  corpulence  and  in- 
activity, but  the  roads  to  convents  and 
places  of  pilgrimage  have  always  been 
made  smooth  in  Spain,  while  com- 
merce toiled  as  it  could  on  rough 
mules  and  over  rougher  roads.  As  the 
heights  are  gained,  the  views  become 
more  extensive,  sweeping  over  the  sea 
to  Manresa  and  the  Pyrenees.  Here 
and  there,  perched  like  nests  of  the 
solitary  eagle,  are  the  ruins  of  former 
hermitages,  burnt  by  Suchet's  troops ; 
the  extensive  convent  is  placed  under 
a  tremendous  rocky  screen,  on  a  f' 


420 


ROUTE  46. MONSERRAT — ^LEGEND  OF  RIQUILDA.  Sect.  VI. 


of  esplanade,  overlooking  the  Llobre- 
gat,  which  flows  deep  below.  The  ride 
from  Barcelona  takes  from  10  to  12  h. 
As  we  reached  the  portal  the  vesper- 
bell  of  the  monk,  and  the  distant  gun- 
fire booming  from  Monjuich,  told  that 
the  son  had  set,  and  that  another  day 
was  numbered  with  the  past.  We  were 
hospitably  received  b^  the  monks,  who 
had  a  range  of  buildings  to  lodge  pil- 
grims gratuitously.  Now  reform  has 
swept  away  both  monk  and  welcome, 
although  a  sort  of  indifferent  accom- 
modation is  to  be  had  for  the  male 
sex  only,  being  paid  for,  from  the 
scanty  inmates,  who  show  the  present 
abomination  of  desolation.  Bring  your 
provend. 

The  entrance  of  the  old  edifice,  with 
some  crumbling  sepulchres,  ruined 
cloisters,  gardens,  walks,  are  overrun 
with  nettles.  At  the  portal  was  once  a 
hospital  with  cordials  ready  for  sick 
bodies,  and  a  shop  for  the  sale  of 
beads  and  amulets  for  the  comfort  of 
weak  souls.  Moreover,  as  above  all 
the  building  rocks  rise  of  a  terrific 
perpendicular,  a  mass  was  always  said 
to  the  Virgin  to  prevent  their  falling 
on  the  convent,  which  a  portion  once 
did,  and  destroyed  the  infirmary :  the 
chapel  is  now  sadly  desecrated.  The 
Retahlo  was  carved  by  Esteban  Jordan ; 
the  magnificent  Reja  is  by  Christobal 
de  Salamanca,  1578.  On  this  site  (see 
the  mural  inscription),  in  1522,  Loyola 
watched  before  the  Virgin,  previously 
to  dedicating  himself  to  her  as  her 
knight,  and  the  founding  his  order  of 
Jesuits :  he  laid  his  sword  on  her  altar, 
which  is  now  preserved  in  El  Belem  at 
Barcelona.  ^ 

The  pilgrim  now  stands  in  front  of 
the  "  Great  Diana"  of  the  Mountain ;  the 
miraculous  image  itself  was  made  by  St. 
Luke,  and  brought  to  Barcelona  in  the 
year  50  by  St.  Peter.  At  the  Moorish 
invasion  in  717  the  Goths  hid  it  in  the 
hill,  where  it  remained  until  880,  when 
some  shepherds  were  attracted  to  the 
spot  by  heavenly  lights  and  singing 
angels  ;  thereupon  the  bishop  of  Vique, 
guided  also  by  a  sweet  smell,  found  the 
image  in  a  cave,  but  as  it  refused  to 
move,  a  chapel  was  built  over  it,  where 
it  remained  160  years.  •  A  nunnery  was 


then  founded,  which  in  976  was  con- 
verted into  a  Benedictine  convent. 
The  image  rested  on  the  primitive 
altar  nearly  700  years,  until  a  new 
chapel  was  built  in  1592,  to  which  it 
was  removed,  July  11,  1599,  by  Philip 
II.  in  person :  there  it  remained  untU 
1835,  when  the  convent  was  suppressed, 
and  it  was  brought  down.  It  is  rudely 
carved  out  of  dark  wood,  and  holds  the 
child  in  its  lap.  "None,  however," 
says  the  *  Compendio  *  (p.  28),  "  can 
dare  to  look  at  it  long,"  and  the  monks, 
in  dressing  and  undressing  it,  always 
averted  their  eyes  (Villafane,  355): 
so  the  radiancy  of  Hecate's  image 
dazzled  all  beholders  (Pliny,  xxxvi.  5). 
Equally  brilliant  were  its  dresses  and 
trinkets,  which  rivalled  those  of  Del- 
phos  of  old ;  for  the  pious  endeavoured 
to  conciliate  a  female  intercessor  by 
those  gifts  which  are  most  agreeable 
to  the  sex,  forgetting  the  lowly  sim- 
plicity which  formed  the  sweet  essence 
of  the  blessed  Virgin  when  alive ;  how- 
ever, the  favours  which  the  image  be- 
stowed here  in  return  were  commensu- 
rate with  the  rank  of  the  donor  and  the 
value  of  the  present:  thus  to  Margaret, 
daughter  of  Charles  V.,  it  bowed  its 
head.  So  the  pagan  statue  of  Mem- 
non,  in  Egypt,  twvie  saluted  Sabina, 
the  wife  of  Adrian.  Blessed  souls 
frying  in  purgatory  were  got  out  to  a 
dead  certainty,  if  their  living  relations 
only  caused  masses  to  be  said  before  it 
and  paid  for  (Comp°-  101).  Thus,  in 
1740,  the  soul  of  Pedro  Coll,  a  day- 
labourer  in  life,  and  transported  in 
death  for  14  years  to  fire  and  brimstone, 
was  rescued,  and  appeared  visibly, 
"  like  a  piece  of  burnt  toast"  (Comp'*' 
106).  Night  and  day  lights  blazed 
before  the  graven  image,  in  74  precious 
lamps,  which  the  pious  French  removed 
as  positively  pagan. 

The  grand  miracle  was  the  most 
ancient  of  all,  but  this  is  usual,  for  in 
proportion  as  the  people  were  ignorant, 
grosser  cheats  were  palmed  upon  them 
by  the  cunning  monks  :  thus  how  poor 
and  fiat  is  modem  hagiography  when 
compared  to  the  rich  and  truly  golden 
legends  of  old  Voragine  1  The  legend 
of  Montserrat  runs  thus  :  Towards  the 
end  of  the  9th  century  the  devil  entered 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  46. — THE  HILL  OF  MONSERRAT. 


421 


the  body  of  Riquilda,  daughter  of  Wil- 
fred el  vellosOf  so  the  father  sent  her  to 
Juan  Guarin,  the  hermit  of  the  Vir- 
gin's cave,  who  was  renowned  for  ex- 
pelling the  Evil  One.  The  temptation 
was  too  great ;  and  in  one  moment  the 
exorciser  cancelled  a  chastity  of  a  cen- 
tury's duration.  The  dread  of  dis- 
covery of  his  first  crime  led  to  the 
perpetration  of  a  second,  and  he  next 
cut  the  throat  of  his  violated  victim, 
and  fled  to  Rome.  There  the  pope 
ordered  him  to  go  back  on  all  fours, 
and  never  to  look  up  until  pardoned  by 
Heaven.  Juan  became  a  (io^xofy  a  graz- 
ing monk,  until  the  hair  on  his  body 
grew  thicker  than  even  on  the  shaggy 
count's  foot  sole.  He  then  lost  the  use 
of  speech,  and  became  altogether  an 
orang  outang.  Thus,  in  the  poetical 
mythology  of  the  ancients,  the  cup  of 
Circe,  «'.  e.  brutal  sensuality,  converted 
man  into  a  beast.  At  last  Wilfred,  when 
out  hunting,  caught  him,  and  tran- 
sported him  into  a  zoological  den, 
where  he  remained  the  full  term  of  7 
years,  when  a  voice  from  heaven  told 
him  to  look  up ;  he  did  so,  and,  as  in  a 
fairy  tale,  at  once  recovered  his  human 
shape,  senses,  and  sainthood.  Guarin 
now  led  the  count  to  the  mountain, 
where  Riquilda  re-appeared  alive,  with 
only  a  red  rim  on  her  throat,  which, 
according  to  Villafane,  (p.  357),  was 
like  a  necklace  de  grana,  and  rather 
becoming  than  otherwise.  Some  Ca- 
talan theologians  contend  that  her 
vir^nit^  was  miraculously  restored, 
which,  if  true,  is  the  only  instance 
even  in  Spanish  legends,  and  impossi- 
ble, according  to  the  great  doctor  of 
their  church ;  for  St.  Jerome  wrote 
thus  to  his  female  disciple  Eustoquium : 
— "  Cum  omnia  possit  Deus,  suscitare 
virginem  non  potest  post  ruinam;" 
and  so  Pliny  (ii.  7)  held,  that  the  only 
power  of  Olympus-  over  the  past,  in 
such  cases,  was  oblivion.  Be  this 
as  it  may,  at  all  events,  our  Riquilda 
became  the  first  abbess  of  the  convent. 
Other  historians  are  satisfied  that  Juan 
also  was  innocent,  and  that  the  devil, 
who  had  assumed  his  form,  was  de- 
ceived by  an  imaginary  Riquilda, 
which  the  image  of  the  Virgin  had 
made  out  of  a  cloud,  just  as  Ixion  was 


deceived  by  a  nebulous  Juno.  Those 
who  have  read  the  *  Guardian'  (No. 
148)  will  find  all  this  miracle  forestalled 
by  the  Orientals  in  their  Santon  Barsisa. 
Compare  also  the  Italian  legend  of  S. 
Giovanni  Boccadoro  (12mo.  Lucca, 
1823),  and  Mrs.  Jameson's  luculent 
account  in  *  Legendary  Art'  (ii.  317). 
But  for  what  true  Barcelonese  believers 
believe  consult  the  authorized  *  His- 
toria  verdadera  de  Juan  Guarin,'  4to. 
Barcelona,  1778. 

The  curious  mav  collect  some  of  the 
early  catalogues  oi  the  miracles  worked 
by  the  Virgen  de  Monserrafs  image, 
which  were  printed  for  pilgrims,  and 
sold  by  the  monks.  Monserrat  had  been 
the  Subiaco  of  Spain,  and  the  press 
from  whence  some  of  the  earliest 
works  issued  in  the  15th  century.  The 
most  authentic  is  the  ^Lihro  de  la  Historia 
y  Milagros/  compiled  by  Pedro  de 
Burgos,  abbot  from  1512  to  36.  We 
possess  the  black  letter  edition,  Barce- 
lona, 1550,  in  which  only  288  miracles 
are  reported.  They  increased  so  daily 
that  new  editions  were  called  for  in 
1605,  27,  and  71. 

For  fuller  and  authentic  history  con- 
sult *  Compendia  Bistorico,'  Juan  de 
Villafane,  fol.,  Mad.,  1740,  p.  349 ;  the 

*  Coronica*  of  Antonio  Yepes,  vol.  iv. ; 
and  the  *  Competidio  Historical/  Manuel 
Texero,  Barcelona;  and  Fsp.  Sag, 
xxviii.  35;  and  for  the  legend  of 
Quarin,  the  different  editions  of  the 

*  Bistoria  de  la  Perla*  Argaiz^  Barce- 
lona, 1511,  92,  1627. 

A  morning  should  be  devoted  to 
scrambling  about  the  mountain,  and 
examining  its  geology,  botany,  and 
picturesque  scenery.  The  hermitages 
were  once  13  in  number ;  each  was 
separate,  and  with  difficulty  accessible. 
The  anchorite  who  once  entered  one, 
never  left  it  again.  There  he  lived, 
like  things  within  a  cold  rock  bound, 
alive  while  all  was  stone  around,  and 
there  he  died,  after  a  living  death  to  the 
world,  passed  in  solitude  without  love, 
the  torture  of  Satan,  according  to  Sta.  Te- 
resa ;  yet  these  cells  were  never  vacant, 
being  sought  for  as  eagerly  as  apart- 
ments are  by  retired  dowagers  in  Hamp- 
ton Court.  Risco  says  that  there  were 
always  a  dozen  expectants  waiting 


422 


ROUTE  46. ^THE  HERMITS  OF  MONSERRAT'. 


Sect.  VI. 


the  convent  the  happy  release  of  an 
occapant.  £^ch  hermitage  had  its 
name,  and  some  were  appropriate,  such 
as  the  Magditlen  and  ^n  IXmas  the 
good  thief.  To  be  a  hermit,  and  l)<«- 
^ifiotj  that  is,  left  to  live  after  his  own 
fashion,  exactly  suited  the  self-willed 
self-isolating  Spaniard,  who  hates  dis- 
cipline and  subjection  to  any  superior. 

The  invaders  came  here  often,  not 
indeed  as  pilgrims ;  they  owed  a  grudge 
to  Monserrat,  because  the  monks  had  af- 
forded an  asylum  to  their  countrymen 
clergy  who  emigrated  in  1792.  In  the 
Lettres  de  Barcelona,  Paris,  1792,  p.  123, 
a  **Citoyen**  deplores  the  reception  given 
here  to  the  Parti  Pretre,  and  enlarges 
on  the  sacred  plate,  eyeing  it  with  a 
philosophical  reflection,  "how  well  it 
would  melt ;"  a  hint  which  was  after- 
wards duly  acted  on.  The  Monserrat 
hill  was  fortified  by  Eroles ;  but  Suchet, 
in  July,  1811,  soon  gained  the  height, 
when  his  soldiers  amused  themselves 
with  hunting  the  hermits  like  wild 
goats  in  the  cliffs,  and,  having  butchered 
them,  proceeded  to  the  convent,  plun- 
dered the  altars,  hung  the  monks, 
robbed  even  the  poor  pilgrims,  and 
burnt  the  fine  library.  By  the  loss  of 
this  **Holy  Hill"  and  strong  place 
of  refuge  all  the  stores  and  arms 
provided  by  England  for  the  Spaniards 
were  in  reality  furnished  to  the  enemy, 
while  the  moral  injury  was  greater,  as 
the  prestige  of  the  Palladium  was 
sapped,  and  the  superstitious  Catalans 
believing  that  the  Queen  of  Heaven  and 
their  Generalisima  had  deserted  them, 
surrendered  to  the  invaders :  a  Southern 
people  may,  indeed,  be  animated  by 
the  promise  of  supernatural  assistance ; 
and  the  religious  stimulant  may  operate 
as  brandy  and  double  rations  do  with 
Northerns ;  but  when  Juno,  Hercules, 
and  stocks  and  stones  fail,  despair  is 
the  natural  re-action, — aide  toi,  et  le 
ciel  t*aidera. 

All  now  is  desolation .  Visit,  however, 
the  rock-walled  garden,  with  the  deep 
river  below — climb  up  to  the  Citeva  and 
to  the  crumbling  hermitages  of  Santa 
>  Ana  and  San  Benito,  not  forgetting  La 
Roca  estrecha,  a  singular  fissure;  the 
highest  is  the  San  Geronimo.  Here  the 
'^"'»  sweeps  over  Catalonia,  spread  out 


below  as  a  map ;  yet  lofty  as  these  sites 
were,  the  armed  man  toiled  up  to  **rob 
the  hermit  of  his  beads,"  and  injure 
his  grey  hairs.  These  retreats  satined 
the  OrioDtal  and  Spanish  tendency  to 
close  a  life  of  action  by  repose,  and  a 
hope  to  atone  for  past  sensualism  by  mor^ 
tification.  These  true  papal  soldiers 
minded  not  the  cowardice  of  running 
a  wa^  from  the  battle-brunt,  when  the  real 
Christian  buckles  tighter  on  his  armour, 
to  fight  the  good  fight,  remaining  in 
the  world  but  not  of  it,  to  meet  and 
conquer  the  difi&culties.  This  Spanish 
retreat  to  the  cowl  was  also  a  neces- 
sary recoil  of  a  system  in  which  the 
physical  predominates  over  the  intel- 
lectual; for  when  ofiice,  command, 
and  occupation  are  gone,  when  age 
diminishes  powers  of  usefulness  and 
enjoyment,  there  is  nothing  to  £ei11 
back  on,  no  escape  from  the  laborious 
lassitude  of  having  nothing  to  do: 
hence  these  abodes  of  penance  which 
offered  a  new  excitement  when  old 
stimulants  ceased  to  act,  never  wanted  a 
tenant;  since  in  all  ranks,  habits,  and 
intellects,  many  always  have  been  and 
are  to  be  found,  eager  to  withdraw, 
youth,  love,  and  war  being  at  an  end, 
from  the  drouth,  tumult,  glare,  and 
weariness  of  the  world,  to  fly  from,  the 
fleshpots  of  Egypt,  and  to  shelter  them- 
selves under  the  shadow  of  the  great  rock. 
This  desengano  or  disenchantment,  this 
finding  out  the  **  stale,  flat,  and  unpro- 
fitable "  vanity  of  vanities  of  this  world's 
cheat,  is  peculiarly  Spanish,  and  has 
led  thousands  into  solitude — often  of  the 
best  society  —  to  contemplate  calmly 
the  approach  of  death,  and  prepare  for 
it  as  it  approached  nearer.  Woe  to 
him  who  too  late  repents  I  Thus  the 
empire  and  ambition  sick  Charles  V. 
retired  to  Yuste,  and  bartered  crowns 
for  rosaries  away:  indeed,  those  who 
had  been  the  most  eager  to  obtain 
worldly  greatness,  were  the  first  ta  re- 
nounce it  when  acquired,  as  if  their 
fierce  joy  of  the  pursuit  were  buried  in 
the  grave  of  possession.  Many,  doubt- 
less, were  less  sincere,  and  hid,  under 
the  mask  of  retirement  and  contempt  of 
the  world,  their  wounded  vanity  and 
disappointed  ambition.  The  self-love 
and  pride  of  the  Spaniard  pretends  to 


Catal 


onia. 


ROUrE  46. — MANRESA. 


423 


every  thing ;  and  where  failure  is  the 
result  he  endeavours  to  salve  it  over  by 
putting  forward  any  excuse  but  that  of 
self-unworthiness.  Many,  no  doubt, 
who  had  waded  through  gore  to 
foreign  conquest,  and  through  perfidy 
to  place  and  power,  fled  to  these  soli- 
tudes from  their  cankered  heaps  of 
strangely  achieved  gold  to  cleanse  their 
bosoms  from  the  perilous  stuff,  and  to 
wash  their  hand  from  the  blood  and 
soil  of  manhood.  To  some,  these  re- 
treats were  indeed  the  only  safe  asylum, 
except  the  grave,  from  the  execrations 
and  revenge  of  mankind.  Such  hearts 
may  indeed  be  broken,  but  like  the 
shivered  ice  or  crystal,  are  never  to  be 
warmed  or  softened;  they  could  not 
escape  from  themselves,  nor  get  rid  of 
their  indwelling  companion — the  worm 
that  never  dies.  Yet  these  lonely 
crags,  and  their  unspeakable  solace  of 
solitude,  were  most  congenial  to  all 
really  wounded  spirits :  here  the  earth 
was  at  their  feet,  while  their  hopes  and 
affections  were  set  on  things  above. 
1'hus  they  parted  in  peace,  weaned 
from  the  world, 

"  to  mourn  o'er  sin, 
And  find  for  outward  Eden  lost,  a  FazadiBe 
within." 

Nor  can  anything  be  more  impressive 
than  the  Religio  lociy  which  these  moun- 
tain retreats  inspire,  prcesentiorem  con- 
spicimus  dernn.  Oh,  crafty  Vatican !  deep 
fathomer  of  the  wants  and  weakness 
of  human  nature,  how  thy  wise  framers 
have  provided  a  tabula  post  naufragium, 
a  senectutis  nidvJm,  things  wanting 
to  our  hastily- constructed  refugeless 
Protestantism,  which  rejects  rather  than 
woos  approach,  which  appeals  to  our 
strong  head  and  cold  reason,  not  to  the 
broken  heart  and  warmest  feelings  I  The 
roofless  cells  are  now  untenanted ;  the 
works  of  pious  men  are  swept  away ; 
all  is  ruined  save  the  mountain-ma- 
sonry and  the  sunsets  of  nature.  They 
are  indeed  glorious :  down  to  darkness 
goes  the  orb  of  fire,  and  his  last  rays 
gilding  the  ruins  enhance  the  melan- 
choly sentiment,  where 

'♦  No  godly  Eremite, 


Such  as  on  lonely  Athos,  now  is  seen 
Watching  at  eve  upon  the  giant  height 
Which  looks  o'er  waves  so  blue,  dues  so  serene." 


From  the  convent  to  Manresa  is  a 
picturesque  ride  of  4  L. ;  the  descent  is 
alpine,  amid  rocks,  pines,  and  aromatic 
shrubs.  After  entering  a  vine-clad 
country  the  road  ascends  the  Llobregat: 
at  Castellgali,  near  its  junction  with 
the  Gardener,  is  La  Torre  de  Breny,  a 
fine  Koman  monument,  the  origin  and 
object  of  which  are  unknown,  for  the 
interior  evidently  was  never  destined 
for  habitation:  the  masonry  is  solid 
and  well  preserved.  Observe  the  frieze 
and  cornice  richly  adorned  with  flowers 
and  scrollwork,  and  two  lions  in  the 
act  of  pouncing  upon  a  human  figure. 
Manresa  soon  appears :  it  was  the  Ro- 
man Minorisa  and  capital  of  the  Jace- 
tani :  the  Posada  del  Sol  is  very  com- 
fortable. Manresa,  the  central  and 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  cities  in 
Catalonia,  is  the  chief  town  of  its  fer- 
tile well-irrigated  district:  it  contains 
13,000  busy  cloth-making  souls,  and  a 
Seu,  which,  without  being  a  cathedral, 
is  in  dignity  higher  than  a  colegiata, 
being  presided  over  by  a  Pavorde,  a  dig- 
nitary equal  to  four  canons.  Manresa 
was  the  first  to  ring  out  the  Somaten—- 
the  tocsin  bell — after  Murat's  butcheries 
at  Madrid  on  the  dos  de  mayo :  hence 
Duhesme,  el  Cruel,  twice  sent  his  in- 
cendiaries Schwartz  and  Cbabran,  who 
were  both  repulsed  at  Bruch ;  but 
March  SO,  1811,  Marshal  Macdonald 
came  in  person  with  the  torch,  and  set 
the  example,  by  firing  his  own  quarter, 
riding  to  a  height  to  enjoy,  like  Nero, 
the  "  beautiful  sight."  More  than  800 
houses,  with  churches  and  manufac- 
tories, were  then  burnt ;  nor  were  even 
the  hospitals  spared;  and  in  vain  the 
physicians  produced  to  General  Salme 
the  actual  agreement,  signed  by  French 
and  Spanish  commanders,  that  the  asy- 
lums of  suffering  humanity  should  be 
sacred.  The  sick  were  torn  from  their 
beds,  the  wards  sacked  and  burnt; 
"  many  patients  were  butchered,  and 
even  children  in  the  orphan  asylum 
infamously  abused."  See  for  historic 
details,  Southey  (28),  Toreno  (xv.),  and 
Scbepeler  (iii.  402),  Madoz  (xi.  187). 
But  the  perpetrators  met  with  their  re- 
ward, for  the  Somatenes  and  peasants, 
when  they  beheld  the  face  of  heaven 
reddened  with  indignation  at  this  b)^ 


424 


ROUTE  46. — MANRESA — ^IGNAQO  LOYOLA. 


Sect.  VI. 


and  incendiarism,  rose  in  arms,  and 
the  invaders  fled,  losing  many  in  their 
retreat  (Nap.  xiiL  4).  The  Catalan 
knife  avenged  ifcinresa,  and  the  black- 
ened ruins  yet  remain  a  silent  but  cry- 
ing record  of  the  past,  and  a  warning 
for  the  future;  but  Macdonald  began 
this  trade  early  at  Frosinone,  where  he 
massacred  the  inhabitants,  and  burnt 
Uieir  bodies  with  the  timber  of  their 
own  homes. 

The  Sen  is  a  noble  church,  although 
the  invaders  smashed  much  of  the  su- 
perb painted  glass,  overturned  the 
pulpits,  and  made  the  chancel  a  cavalry 
barrack.  The  edifice  is  built  of  a 
brown  stone  with  a  fine  belfry-tower 
and  open  crown-like  termination ;  the 
exterior  of  the  Coro  is  divided  by 
Gothic  niches  and  painted  with  bishops 
and  saints  in  a  coarse  fresco.  The  high 
altar,  with  its  jasper  crypt  chapel,  and 
the  usual  Saracens'  heads  under  the 
organ,  repeat  the  Barcelonese  type. 
The  font  is  very  elegant :  observe  the 
tomb  of  Canon  Molet  and  that  of  a 
dying  monk  in  the  cloisters ;  notice  the 
rose  window  and  painted  glass  with  the 
Ascension  of  the  Virgin :  the  rich  red 
and  blue  colours  are  splendid.  Manresa 
is  a  quaint,  picturesque,  scrambling 
town,  with  tortuous  streets  and  old- 
fashioned  houses.  The  views  are 
charming ;  from  the  narrow  old  bridge 
the  cath^ral  rises  grandly  above  gush- 
ing cascades  of  &e  Cardener,  amid 
ravines,  rocks,  gardens,  cypresses, 
walls,  and  Prout-like  buildings. 

The  Cueva  de  San  Ignacio  is  the  great 
lion,  and  the  view  from  the  esplanade 
is  glorious.  The  jagged  Monserrat 
towers  in  the  distance,  from  whence 
the  Virgin  smiled  continually  at  the 
Jesuit  saint  while  doing  penance  in 
his  cave.  The  convent  built  over  it  is 
of  the  bad  period  of  1660,  with  Ionic 
decorations — clumsy  angels  and  cor- 
rupt architecture.  The  portal  of 
the  Cueva  was,  however,  left  un- 
finished in  consequence  of  the  expul- 
sion of  the  Jesuits.  The  cave  is  lined 
with  marbles  and  poor  sculpture,  by 
Carlos  Grau :  observe  at  the  altar  the 
saint  in  this  cave  writing  his  book, 
and  his  first  miracle,  the  saving  a  boy's 
"  wl  from  a  well,  at  the  bottom  of 


which,  no  doubt,  truth  still  dwells ; 
the  pulverised  stone  of  this  cave  is 

fiven  in  cases  where  we  prescribe 
ames's  powders ;  here  also  is  his 
crucifix,  from  whose  wounds  blood 
streamed  forth,  a  common  occurrence 
with  the  graven  images  of  antiquity 
(Livy,  xxii.  36,  et  passim). 

Ignacio  Loyola,  bom  in  Guipuzcoa 
in  1491,  began  life  as  a  soldier,  and 
was  wounded  by  the  French  during 
the  siege  of  Pamplona  in  1521.  He 
was  cured  by  St.  Peter,  who  came 
down  from  heaven  on  purpose  (Ribad. 
ii.  387).  During  his  ilhiess  he  so 
pored  over  the  lives  and  legends  of 
saints,  that  he  went  mad,  as  Don 
Quixote  did  by  perusing  chivalrous 
romances.  He  determined  on  a  spiri- 
tual knight-errantry,  and  set  forth  to 
teach  a  religion  to  others  of  which 
he  knew  nothing  himself,  and,  first, 
did  penance  a  year  in  this  cave,  the 
Virgin  having  actually  reconceived 
him  (Ribad.  ii.  408).  After  dedicating 
himself  to  her  at  Monserrat,  he  col- 
lected a  few  disciples  and  proceeded 
to  Rome  to  ask  for  Papal  permission 
to  found  his  society,  our  Saviour 
**  appearing  to  him  in  person,  to  pro- 
mise his  assistance." 

Loyola,  an  enthusiast,  yet  sincere, 
became  a  tool  in  the  hands  of  the 
crafty  Diego  Laynez,  Xavier  Salmeron, 
and  of  Acqua  Viva  especially.  He  it 
was  who  put  forth  the  Exercitatorium, 
the  manual  of  ascetic  treatises,  said  to 
be  revealed  to  Loyola  by  the  Virgin 
herself:  but  these  Exercises  were 
almost  a  reprint  of  an  older  work  of 
Garcia  Cisneros,  which  was  bought  up 
in  consequence  by  the  Jesuits.  This 
trio  composed  the  truly  Spanish  code, 
the  disciplina  arcani,  or  constitutions 
which  embody  the  principle  of  the 
mystery  of  iniqtiity:  these,  which  it 
was  given  out  were  corrected  by  the 
Virgin  herself,  appealed  to  the  sym- 
pathies of  Spaniards,  the  then  dominant 
people  of  Europe,  and  were  based  on 
the  old  Castilian  military  and  monastic 
obedience.  "They  enlisted  soldiers  into 
the  camp  of  Mary,'*  to  combat  aeainst 
civil  and  religious  liberty,  which  the 
Bible  translated  by  Luther  was  giving 
to  mankind.    Their  object  was  to  up- 


Catalonia. 


ROUTE  46. — MANKESA — THE  JESUITS. 


425 


hold  Popery,  not  Christianity,  and  thus 
to  govern  mankind  through  religion ; 
they  purposed  to  revive  the  crusades, 
to  restore  to  the  tiara  in  the  new  world 
what  it  was  losing  in  th<e  old.  They 
created  unscrupiUous  agents ;  their 
education  was  the  teaching  men  not  to 
think ;  they  required  a  slavish  obe- 
dience of  the  intellect,  and  left  the 
understanding  without  freedom,  the 
heart  without  virtue.  As  printing, 
which  gave  wings  to  the  Bible,  was 
shattering  the  fabric  of  the  Vatican, 
the  Jesuits  monopolising  the  lever  of 
education  became  missionaries  abroad, 
tutors,  and  teachers  of  the  rising  youth 
at  home,  and  thus  not  only  disarmed 
knowledge  of  its  power,  but  made  it 
minister  to  its  own  suicidal  destruc- 
tion, and  become  a  tool  for  the  carry- 
ing on  that  implacable)  exterminating 
contest,  which  Rome  has  ever  warred, 
wars,  and  will  war  against  all  civil  and 
religious  liberty.  Accordingly  the 
active,  intellectual  Jesuits  infused  a 
new  life  into  the  fat  indolence  of  the 
monastic  system.  They  raised  cheer- 
ful, gorgeous  temples,  and  abjured  the 
gloomy  cowl  and  routine  of  the  cloister, 
now  getting  obsolete.  Men  of  this 
world  rather  than  of  the  next,  they 
adopted  a  purely  mundane  policy,  of 
the  earth,  earthy.  They  professed  to 
secure  the  salvation  of  all  who  would 
only  implicitly  trust  to  them,  and  thus 
removed  heavy  responsibility,  which 
depresses  the  soul,  and  placed  it  on  vel- 
vet :  their  redeeming  merit,  according 
to  Brillat  Savarin,  was  (after  colonizing 
and  civilizing  the  new  world)  the  dis- 
covery of  the  turkey  and  its  intro- 
duction to  the  truffle ;  but  gastronomy 
owes  everything  to  the  church. 

Their  nomenclature  and  regulations 
were  also  military.  The  order  was  a 
"compania,"  a  company y  the  standard 
was  "a  material  heart  bleeding,  and 
crowned  with  thorns."  They  were 
commanded,  not  by  a  Prior,  but  by  a 
"  General**  Loyola,  an  old  soldier, 
knowing  what  incumbrances  females 
were  in  a  fighting  well -disciplined 
camp,  urged  the  pope  to  decree  that 
there  never  should  be  Jesuit  nuns. 
Bad  faith — nulla  fides  seroainda  est  here' 
tkis — and  an  insatiable  lust  for  spiritual 


and  temporal  power,  and  the  axiom 
that  the  end  justifies  the  means,  were 
their  principles.  The  shrewd  old  man 
of  the  seven  hills  saw  the  value  of  his 
newand  most  exclusive  allies,  his  *•  own'* 
regiment,  his  personal  body-guard ;  for 
the  Jesuits  were  subject  to  no  diocesan 
jurisdiction,  but  to  him  alone,  so  they 
were  constituted  by  ahull  in  1540.  The 
order  rapidly  extended.  Loyola  having 
been  the  "  general"  of  his  legions  for  15 
years,  died  July  31,  1556,  aged  63,  and 
was  canonized  by  Gregory  XV.,  March 
12,  1622.  It  has  been  calculated  that 
the  Jesuits'  property  in  Spain,  under 
Charles  IIL,  exceeded  three  millions 
sterling:  quiet  and  gentle  as  doves, 
and  cunning  as  serpents,  they  were 
too  deep  to  offend  by  the  ostentation 
of  their  power,  and  were  satisfied  with 
the  reality. 

Loyola,  who  laid  his  iron  sword  on 
the  altar  at  Monserrat,  gave  a  more 
powerful  weapon  to  Rome :  there  was 
its  handle,  while  its  point  was  every- 
where. The  subtle  Jesuits  soon  be- 
came too  mighty  for  kings,  and  even 
popes;  and  the  order  was  annulled 
July  21,  1773,  by  Ganganelli.  The 
Jesuits  were  expelled  from  Spain 
March  31,  1767,  under  circumstances 
of  singular  Punic  perfidy  and  Iberian 
cruelty.  How  Aranda  managed  this 
coup  d'<^tat  with  Charles  III.  is  de- 
tailed by  Blanco  White,  *Doblado 
Letters,'  p.  445.  Yet  Jesuitism,  it  has 
been  said,  may  feign  death,  but  it 
never  really  dies;  its  immortality  is 
secured  in  the  weakness  of  human 
nature. 

No  school  of  art  ever  painted  the 
Jesuit  like  that  of  his  own  country : 
Roelas  gave  to  the  life  the  stealthy 
grimalkin  courtier,  while  Ribalta,  the 
imitator  of  Sebastian  del  Piombo, 
took  the  Schidoni  look  of  these  **  men 
in  black  from  under  the  ground ;"  his 
favourite  subject  was  the  sepulchral 
vision  of  Loyola,  when  the  Saviour 
appeared  to  him  bearing  his  cross, 
bidding  him  go  to  Rome  and  be  of 
good  cheer.  Ego  vobis  Romse  propitius 
ero.  Loyola  assumed  for  the  costume  of 
his  order  the  usual  dress  worn  in  Spain 
by  the  secular  clergy,  which  consists 
of  a  black  gown  and  a  huge  hat,  a 


426 


ROUTE  46. — CARDOXA — ^BAMON  NONAT. 


Sect.  VI. 


yard  long,  turned  up  at  the  sides.  It 
18  the  dress  of  Don  Basilio  in  the  Mar- 
riage of  Figaro;  none,  however,  can 
understand  the  fine  arts  of  Spain,  as 
connected  with  the  Jesuits,  without 
reading  the  chnreh^afUhorized  life  of 
the  founder.  '  Vuia  del  Snnto^  Nierem- 
berg,'  Mad.  1636,  3rd  ed.  There  are 
many  others ;  one  by  H.  L.  Ortiz,  fol., 
Sevilla,  1679;  and  another  by  Fr**'  de 
Mattos,  fol.,  1718. 

For  Manresa,  consult  Epitome  HiS' 
torico  de  M,,  Juan  Graspar  Roig,  4to., 
Barcelona,  1 694 ;  and  of  its  saints  by 
Juan  Gemes,  8vo.  1607. 

Those  who  only  intend  visiting  the 
salt-mines  at  Cardona,  must  allow  2 
days  from  Manresa  to  go  and  return ; 
then  they  may  ride  to  Ljualnda  to  take 
up  the  diligence,  leaving  Monserrat  on 
their  1.  hand:  a  guide  is  necessary. 
Passing  through  the  straggling  village 
of  Gtutrdiula,  amid  vines  and  pine- 
groves,  the  track  winds  sometimes 
along  the  beds  of  streams,  at  others 
over  a  Scotch-looking  country.  The 
peasantry  are  poor  and  laborious ;  the 
farm-houses  solid.  Quitting  the  mise- 
rable Odena,  with  its  marble  rocks  and 
polygonal  tower,  we  reach  the  high 
road  to  Aragon,  through  which  tibe 
Zaragoza  and  Barcelona  diligences 
pass  at  the  clean  town  of  Igtialada, 
and  the  mule  may  be  abandoned. 

The  route  from  Manresa  to  Suria 
runs  through  a  wild  country,  where 
pine-trees  are  mingled  with  vines. 
Stria,  an  ancient-looking,  unwhite- 
washed  town,  rises  on  a  hill  over  the 
Cardener,  whose  stream  and  valley  is 
passed  through,  until,  ascending  a 
stony  rise,  Cardona  appears,  with  its 
castle  towers,  long  lines  of  fortifica- 
tions, '  straggling  houses,  cypress 
gardens,  and  arched  buildings.  The 
celebrated  and  inexhaustible  mine  lies 
below,  to  the  1.,  before  reaching  the 
bridge.  An  order,  always  granted,  is 
necessary  from  the  steward  of  the 
Duke  of  Medina  Celi.  The  mine  is 
an  absolute  mountain  of  salt,  emerging 
in  a  jagged  outline,  nearly  500  feet 
high,  and  a  league  in  circumference ; 
it  differs  from  the  mine  at  Minglanillaf 
as  being  on  the  surface :  these  are  the 
«A.«r  o^v»T9t  mentioned  by  Strabo  (iii. 


219).  The  salt  pinnacles  shoot  forth 
from  a  brownish  earth,  like  a  quany 
of  marble  dislocated  by  gunpowder. 
The  colours  of  these  saline  glacierB 
vary  extremely,  and  are  brilliant  in 
proportion  as  the  weather  is  clear. 
When  the  sun  shines  they  look  like 
stalactites  turned  upside  down,  and 
are  quite  prismatic,  with  rainbow  tints 
of  reds  and  blues.  It  seems  a  Sindbad 
valley  of  precious  stones.  Some  of  the 
grottos  look  like  fairy  cells,  lined  as 
it  were  with  preserved  fruits,  sparkling 
with  crystallised  sugar.  There  is  a 
peculiar  mixed  colour,  which  is  called 
arlequino.  Visit  the  furad  mico,  the 
hole  of  the  squirrel,  said  to  be  a  mile 
in  depth.  The  miners  make  little 
articles  of  thissalt, as  is  done  with  the 
fluor-spars  in  Derbyshire,  which  never 
liquefy  in  the  dry  air  of  Spain. 

Crossing  the  Cardener  by  a  good 
bridge,  we  ascend  to  Cardona — Ubeda 
—a  steep  town  of  some   2^00  souls. 
Posada  del  Sol,  good.  This  strong  hill- 
fort  was  never  taken  by  the  French : 
thus  in  1711  it  beat  back  Philip  V.; 
and  again  in  Oct.  1810  it  baffled  Mac- 
donala  and  his  incendiaries,  who  fled, 
harassed  by  the  infuriated  peasantry. 
It  has  a  gothic  colegiata,  dedicated  to 
San  Vicente,  in  which  are  some  sepul- 
chres of  Ramon  Folch  and  his  wife, 
whose  ancient  but  now  degraded  palace 
yet  remains.    Observe  the  carvings  of 
the  organ  1608,  and  a  Virgin  by  Vil- 
lodomat,  at  the  high  altar.    The  cita- 
del contains  the  chapel  where  Bamon 
Nonat,  one  of  the  greatest  of  Catalo- 
nian  saints,  died.    He  is  the  tutelar 
man-midwife  of  Spain,  and   divides 
practice   with   the  Cinta  of  Tortosa. 
He  is  called  Nonat  because,  like  Mao- 
duff,  he  was  "  from  his  mother^s  womb 
untimely    ripped,"    non^riatus.      Thus 
born  in  1198,  he  became  a  monk,  was 
called  el  Santo  fraile,  and  made  a  car- 
dinal by  Gregory  IX.    He  also  cured 
women  who  were  beaten  by  their  hus- 
bands ;  and  having  one  rainy  day  given 
his  red    hat  to  an  old  beggar,  the 
Virgin  appeared  and  offered   him  a 
chaplet  of  roses,  which  he  ungallantly 
declined,  thereupon  the  Saviour  came 
in  person  to  give  him  his  own  crown 
of  thorns  (Ribad.  ii.  603).    He  died  at 


Catalonia. 


ROUTE  46. — SOLSONA — ^URQEL. 


427 


Cardona,  in  August  1240,  the  angels 
attending  his  couch.  In  spite  of  the 
hot  weather,  his  body  for  15  days 
afterwards  perfumed  the  whole  castle. 
A  quarrel  now  arose  as  to  who  was  to 
have  and  keep  his  precious  remains, 
which  was  thus  settled  by  King  Jaime : 
He  ordered  the  fragrant  corpse  to  be  put 
on  the  curate's  blind  mule,  and  to  re- 
main for  good  wherever  the  animal 
might  depose  it.  In  these  times,  when 
the  possession  of  a  relic  attracted  pil- 
grims and  pious  benefactors,  such  a 
sure  source  of  income  was  always  a 
bone  of  contention  among  the  local 
clergy;  again  mules  and  asses  con- 
stantly play  an  important  part  in  Spain, 
being  judiciously  called  in  as  arbi- 
trators, although  it  only  occurred  to 
the  wag  Aristophanes  to  imagine  such' 
an  appeal  (Ran.  159),  as  a  ludicrous 
comparison,  n9s  ayMv  fAv^m^ia. 

The  blind  mule  being  laden  with 
Don  Ramon,  proceeded  with  its  bur- 
den, the  church  bells  ringing  of  their 
own  accord  as  it  passed,  which  Spanish 
bells  often  do  or  did  (see  Velilla) .  It 
rested  at  Portell,  the  place  where  he 
was  not  born,  and  there  the  body  now  is. 
A  convent  was  forthwith  founded,  and 
was  much  visited  by  pious  females, 
who  constantly  returned  cured  of  bar- 
renness. Thus  Nonat  both  removed 
sterility  and  facilitated  parturition. 
Benedict  XIII.,  a  Catalan,  who  had  no 
objection  to  help  a  local  legend,  and 
thus  do  a  little  empeuo  or  Spanish  job, 
canonised  him  in  1414.  More  ample 
details  will  be  found  in  his  church- 
authorised  biographies,  by  Pedro 
Merino,  4to.,  S^manca,  and  Fr***  G. 
Fanlo,  4to.,  Zaragoza,  1618.  The 
saints  Celeterio  and  Hemeterio  who  lie 
in  the  crypt  of  San  Miguel,  are  also 
much. relied  upon  here. 

The  sportsman  and  lover  of  wild 
nature  may  now  push  on  to  the  moun- 
tains. Tak£  a  guide  and  fill  the 
alforjdiSf  as  these  alpine  recesses  are 
rarely  visited  save  by  the  smuggler. 
The  Llobregat  abounds  in  trout.  Ad- 
vancing, therefore,  we  reach  Solsona 
(the  old  Setelix),  made  a  bishopric  in 
1593  by  Philip  II.  Towards  Urgel 
the  plains  are  fertile  in  frnit  and  com ; 
to  the  N.  the  hills  and  woods  abound 


in  game.  Solsona,  the  capital,  rises 
above  the  Riu  Negre.  Pop.  2000 : 
placed  in  the  heart  of  the  hilly  coun- 
try, it  has  long  been  head-quarters  in 
turbulent  times,  and  the  scene  of 
sundry  bush-fightings  in  the  earliest 
struggle.  The  square  old  castle,  with 
its  round  towers  at  the  angles,  on  an 
eminence  commands  the  town.  The 
Gothic  cathedral  of  the  11th  century 
was  burnt  by  Macdonald  in  Oct.  1810. 
The  principal  portal,  finished  in  1769, 
contained  a  statue  of  the  Assumption 
of  the  Vir^n ;  and  the  Capilla  de  Nnes- 
tra  Senora  del  Clamtro  was  the  holiest 
of  the  chapels.  The  episcopal  palace 
built  for  Bishop  Sala  in  1779,  by  one 
Francisco  Pons,  has  the  fa9ade  towards 
the  Plaza  overdone  with  pilasters  and 
ornaments.  The  traffic  of  Solsona  is 
in  iron,  and  the  women,  like  most  in 
Catalonia,  are  industrious  knitters. 
Leaving  Solsona  we  cross  the  Salada ; 
this  brackish  trout  river  falls  into  the 
beautiful  Segre,  whose  stream  and 
valley  is  now  ascended  to  Urgel:  rising 
in  France,  it  flows  down  the  valley  of 
Puigcerddf  under  the  rocky  spurs,  to 
Urgel,  and  thence  by  the  plains  on  to 
L^rida.  At  Oliana,  on  the  Segre,  in 
its  hill-girt  basin  or  cuenca,  the  roads 
to  Urgel,  Barcelona,  and  L^rida  branch 
off:  here  is  a  good  bridge,  and  another 
at  Organd,  half-way  between  Solsona 
and  Urgel :  near  this  the  rocky  gorge 
narrows,  and  the  river  has  forced  a 
most  romantic  pass,  which  is  spanned 
by  3  alpine  bridges — Los  tres  pitentes, 
dels  tres  Fonts. 

Thence  to  Urgel — the  Seo,  or  bishop- 
ric, is  a  most  ancient  see,  founded  m 
820 ;  it  lies  below  the  Pyrenean  spur, 
between  the  sweet  rivers  Valira  and 
Segre,  which, distilled  from  their  moun- 
tain alembic,  unite,  the  former  coming 
down  the  Swiss-like  valley  of  Andorra, 
of  which  the  bishop  of  Urgel  is  en- 
titled the  sovereign  prince.  The  town 
is  commanded  by  the  citadel  on  the 
height,  Las  Horcas,  or  "Gallows Hill ;*' 
its  governor  beat  back  the  French  in 
1794,  by  whom,  in  revenge,  the  city 
was  terribly  sacked.  The  plains  be- 
low, the  granary  of  Catalonia,  are 
irrigated  by  a  canal  planned  by  Juan 
Soler.       This    intricate    country    is 


428 


ROUTE  47. — UBOEL  TO  MONTLUJBS. 


Sect.  VI. 


always  the  heart  and  centre  of  Catalan 
outbreaks.   Here  the  Royalists  took  up 
the  cause  of  Ferdinand  VII.  in  1822  ; 
here  Romagosa  long  held  out  against 
Mina,  who,  trained  to  exterminate  the 
French,  now  tried  his  hand  a^nst 
his  countrymen.    This  Seo  again,  in 
1827,  became  the  head-quarters  of  a 
Carlist  insurrection  against  the  same 
Ferdinand  V II.  because  he  was  getting 
too  liberal,  which  the  Conde  de  Espana 
extinguished  in  a  deluge  of   blood. 
This  adventurer  of  French  origin  rose 
during  the   Peninsular  war,   nobody 
exactly  knowing  how;   not  that  he 
behaved  over  well,  for  his  misconduct 
at  Salamanca  and    Ciudad    Rodrigo 
saved  the  French  from  utter  destruc- 
tion.   Cunning  enough  afterwards  to 
make  Ferdinand  VII.  his  polar  star,  he 
served  him  through  fair  and  foul  with 
the    implicit    obedience    of   the    old 
Spaniard ;  he  obeyed  to  the  letter  the 
king's  private  orders,  while  he  treated 
with  contempt  those  of  his  ministers. 
During  his  patron's  life  he  was  an 
absolute  autocrat  in  Catalonia,  well 
fitted  by  his  iron  rule  to  keep  down  that 
stiff-necked  turbulent  province.     At 
the  king's  death  he  served  Don  Carlos, 
his  successor,  with  equal  zeal,  and  then 
upheld  the  very  cause  which  a  few 
years  before  he  had  put  down;  but 
mas  pesa  el  Bey  que  la  sangre.    He  him- 
self was  thus  murdered  at  last.    His 
head-quarters  were    at    Urgel,  while 
those  of  the  provincial  Junta  were  near 
Berga,  10  L.  S.E.     Oct.  26,   1839,  he 
quitted  Berga  to  attend  this  Junta  at 
Avtay  distant  1  L.,  where  he  was  well 
received    by   his  own    aide-de-camp. 
Brigadier  Mariano  Orteu,  and  by  the 
curate  Ferrer,  who,  at  a  given  signal, 
shot  him  with  a  pistol.   The  wounded 
man  was  then  bound  on  a  mule  and 
dragged  about  until  Nov.  1,  when  they 
took  him  towards  the  frontier,  telling 
him  that  he  was  going  to  be  set  free 
"en  su  pats,**   in  his  own  country,  in 
France ;  then  his  former  friend,  Orteu, 
came  up  and  shot  him,  the  Conde  ex- 
claiming, "  Ah  Mariano  I"     The  body 
having  been  sportively  stabbed  by  the 
knives  of  the  rest  of  the  company,  and 
tied  with  stones,  was  thrown  into  the 
Segre,  over  the  Puente  de  Espia,  near 


Orgaud.  It  however  floated  up,  and 
was  buried  by  peasants  at  the  Coll  de 
Ncurgoj  the  curate  Ferrer  having  re- 
turned to  Berga  to  assure  the  Conde's 
partisans  that  he  had  seen  him  de- 
livered safely  in  France — cosas  de 
Espanal  These  classical  scenes  of 
civil  contention  again,  in  1838,  wit- 
nessed sundry  bush-fightings  between 
the  Carlist  guerillero  Tristani  and  the 
regular  Chnstinist  general  De  Meer. 

From  Urgel,  a  central  point,  many 
wild  and  picturesque  passes  lead  over 
the  Pyrenees  into  France ;  the  shortest 
ascends  the  Segre. 

Route  47. — Ubgel  to  Monthtis. 

Puente  del  Bar    .     .    .     •  2i 

Bellver 2i  ..  5 

PaigoercUL 3     ..  8 

Llivis 1     ..  9 

MontluiB 3     ..  12 

This  charming  river  and  mountain 
ride  seems  made  for  the  artist,  angler, 
and  sportsman.  The  Segre  runs  up  to 
the  Garganta,  or  gorge  enclosed  be- 
tween the  S.  W.  tail  of  the  Canigii  spine 
and  the  Carol  to  the  N.,  which  is  gene- 
rally called  the  Corregimiento  de  Pmg- 
cerdd.  The  valley  of  Cerdana,  Cere- 
tania,  is  bounded  S.  by  Berga  and  N.  by 
France.  Like  many  of  these  limitrophe 
Pyrenean  districts  it  became  inde- 
pendent soon  after  the  Moorish  invasion 
in  731.  After  long  struggles  against 
its  neighbour  the  county  of  Cerdana 
merged  in  1196  with  Barcelona,  and 
was  divided  by  the  peace  of  the  Pyre- 
nees in  1669,  when  France  obtained  a 
portion,  pushing  down  her  territory  on 
the  S.  or  Spanish  slope  of  the  moun- 
tains, just  as  the  Spaniards  retain  the 
N.  slope  in  the  Valle  de  Aran,  and  both 
in  defiance  of  geographical  inclinations. 
^^/foer-*-Pulcher  Visus — as  its  name 
implies,  a  place  of  beautiful  Swiss-like 
views,  with  some  650  inhabitants,  is 
built  on  a  scarped  hill  over  the  Segre, 
with  an  old  ruined  castle,  a  collegiate 
church,  and  a  custom-house.  Piiigcerdd 
is  the  chief  town,  the  head  of  Spanish 
Cerdana  (pop.  1 900),  built  in  the  valley, 
where  the  Raur  and  Arabd  unite  with 
the  Segre :  the  trout  are  fine,  and  the 
shooting  wild  and  excellent,  especially 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  48. — URGEL  TO  TARASCON. 


429 


the  Cabra  Montaraz,  or  Bouqaetin.  It 
has  a  Colegiata  and  a  charming  walk, 
and  is  a  frontier  garrison  town,  and 
has  witnessed  the  horrors  of  border 
warfare.  Llivia  —  Julia  Libica '—  al- 
though within  the  French  boundary,  is 
a  Spanish  town.  Here  Santiago  first 
preached  the  Gospel  to  the  Jews  of 
Spain.  Pop.  under  1000.  It  is  pret- 
tily situated  under  its  ruined  castle, 
and  near  the  source  of  the  Segre,  with 
a  handsome  Parroquia.  Llivia  was 
once  an  episcopdl  town,  but  the  cathe- 
dral was  entirely  destroyed  in  732  by 
the  Moors.  Montluis,  Mont  Louis,  is 
the  French  frontier  citadel,  built  on  a 
conical  hill  by  Vauban  in  1684,  in 
order  to  command  the  narrow  but 
easy  and  much-frequented  pass  (see 
Handbook  for  France).  At  Planes^ 
near  Montluis,  is  a  church,  said  to  be 
Moorish,  earlier  than  Charlemagne, 
and  certainly  not  later  than  the  10th 
centy.  The  second  and  central  pass 
is  by  the  Valle  de  Andorra, 


RoTTTB  48. — Uegel  to  Tabascon. 

San  Julian 3 

Andorra     ...     ...3. .6 

Soldeu 3    ..     9 

Hospitalet 3    ..  12 

Tarasoon 6    ..  18 

This,  a  bridle-road  to  Soldeu,  is  after- 
wards carriageable.  The  pastoral  and 
picturesque  valley  of  Andorra,  a  jumble 
of  hills,  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  the 
Pyrenean  spurs,  extends  about  7  L. 
long  by  6  broad,  and  is  bounded  by 
the  French  and  Spanish  ridges,  by 
Puigcerdd  to  the  S.  and  E.,  by  the 
Comt^  de  Foix  (depart,  de  I'Arifege) 
to  the  N.,  and  by  the  Corregimiento 
of  Talaru  to  the  W.  Watered  by  the 
Balira,  Ordino,  and  Os,  it  is  one  of  the 
wildest  districts  of  the  Spanish  Pyre- 
nees, abounding  in  timber,  which  is 
floated  down  the  Balira  and  Segre  to 
Tortosa.  The  name  Andorra  is  derived 
from  the  Arabic  Aldarra,  "a  place 
thick  with  trees,"  among  which  is 
found  the  Cabra  Montaraz,  with  bears, 
boars,  and  wolves.  This  valley,  ceded 
in  819,  by  Louis  le  Debonnaire,  to  the 
Bishop  Sisebuto,  has  maintained  a  sort 


of  independence  between  France  and 
Spain.  Geographically  considered,  the 
district  ought  to  belong  entirely  to 
France,  to  which  it  is  subject  in  civil 
matters,  being  in  spirituals  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  Bishop  of  Urgel,  a 
sort  of  Prince  Bishop  in  a  phantom 
palatinate,  and  nominsd  republic.  The 
species  of  President  is  called  the  Veguer. 
Full  particulars  will  be  found  in  Madoz 
(i.  288),  as  also  of  the  working  of 
France  and  Spain  in  their  tenancy  in 
common.  The  whole  republic  may  be 
some  37  m.  in  extent  by  30  wide,  E. 
and  W. :  the  Pop.  about  5000,  either 
pastoral  peasants,  smugglers,  or  rude 
forgers  of  iron,  who  look  in  this  pic- 
turesque country  like  devils  in  para- 
dise. 

The  chief  town  was  originally  at  San 
Jtilian,  where  a  stone  cross  marks  the 
site;  the  present  one  stands  with  a 
good  bridge  on  the  Balira,  and  the  town 
of  Andorra  suffered  much  durine  the 
civil  wars  both  from  hostile  attack  and 
suspension  of  commerce.  To  the  rt. 
are  the  heights,  and  the  old  Moorish 
castle  of  Carol,  a  name  derived  from 
Carolus,  Charlemagne.  The  Puerto  is 
carried  over  the  Col  de  Puig  Marins, 
thence  to  Hospitalet  (see  Handbook 
for  France,  R.  97).  Those  who  wish 
just  to  go  into  France  will  find  Sailla- 
gouse  one  of  the  best  of  the  mountain 
villages;  the  wild  rocky  scenery  to 
the  hamlets  Porta  and  Poste  is  quite 
Salvator-Rosa-like. 

The  varied  excursions  from  San 
Julian  are  full  of  alpine  charms. 
Escaldos  is  an  irregular  picturesque 
hamlet,  with  a  fine  trout-stream,  a 
water-power  to  the  rude  iron  forges; 
the  ore  is  brought  from  Carol.  The 
hills  around  the  rich  alluvial  basin  of 
Andorra  abound  in  pine-forests,  which 
afford  fuel;  nothing  can  be  prettier 
than  the  distant  views  of  the  villages, 
embosomed  in  woods :  at  Mont  Melons 
are  three  lakes,  enclosed  by  lofty  and 
fantastic  walls  of  rock.  Leaving  Es- 
caldos, proceed  up  the  valley  of  Ernha^ 
lire,  either  to  Canillo,  or  more  circuit- 
ously  by  the  Yal  de  Arensel,  entered  by 
a  beautiful  gorge,  and  then  pass  by 
the  narrow  defile  to  Urdino  and  Ariege. 
A  broken  ridge  separates  Urdino  and 


430    ROUTES  49,  60. — ^urgel  to  bonaiqua  and  geroxa.       Sect.  VI. 


CaniliOt  where  is  a  curious  old  church. 
Thence  ou  by  miserable  Sokien^  beyond 
which  is  the  frontier  line,  and  by  Port 
de  Framiquel,  a  wild  region  of  Flora, 
to  Ax,  in  the  sweet  valley  of  the 
Ari^ge,  in  France.  The  traveller  will 
take  a  local  guide,  and  attend  to  the 
provend. 


BouTE  49. — Ueoel  to  BONAIGrA. 

Castelbo 2 

Romandrin     .....  2    ..     4 

LlaborHi    • 3    ..    Y 

Tlrvia 1     ..     8 

Esterrl 3     ..  11 

Valencia i. ..  Hi 

Heson  de  Bonaigoa  .     •     .  li'  . .  13 

This  is  the  western  route  by  the 
Puerto  de  Aran.  Ascending  the  pretty 
Ordino  is  Castellhd,  with  250  inhabit- 
ants. Romandrin  is  a  poor  place  in  the 
heart  of  the  hills.  At  Lhborsi,  a  hamlet 
of  iron-workers,  is  a  good  bridge  over 
the  Noguera  Pallaresa,  which  here  is 
joined  by  the  Cardos.  Tirvia  is  a  better 
village,  with  400  Inhab.  JEsterri,  like 
all  these  places,  is  a  mountain  dwell- 
ing of  hard-working  peasants.  Va- 
lencia has  notlung  in  common  with  the 
voluptuous  city  on  the  sunny  coasts : 
it  is  cold  and  cheerless,  and  constantly 
covered  with  snow,  whence  the  name 
Val  de  Nea,  Its  Puerto  is  frequently 
impassable.  From  thence  we  descend 
into  the  Valle  de  Aran  (see  Index). 
The  whole  of  this  route  is  savage 
and  alpine,  and  devoid  of  accommoda- 
tions. 


Route  60. — TJe&el  to  Gbbona. 

Fomols 2\ 

Juxent     .     .     .     .     .     .  li  ..    4 

Bagd 4    ..    8 

Lillet 2i  ..  lOi 

Candebanol 2i  ..  13 

RipoU 2     ..  16 

Yalfogona li  ..  16i 

Olot 2i  ..  19 

Mieras 2i  ..  21i 

Baiiolas    .     .     .     .     .      .  2i  . .  24 

Gerona 2     . .  26 

The  country  is  wild  and  broken  to 
Fornols  and  Bag^,  which  is  situated  on 
the  Bascaren,  a  tributary  of  the  Llo- 


bregat.  Izaak  Walton  himself  could 
not  wish  for  a  prettier  district  than 
this  whole  ride  to  Pohla  de  Lillet,  a 
place  on  the  Llobregat  of  some  1200 
souls,'  which  the  angler  may  make  his 
quarters.  The  peasants  are  hard- 
working and  simple,  and  the  women, 
as  all  over  Catalonia,  indefatigable 
knitters.  The  Llobregat  flows  through 
the  hamlet ;  near  it  is  a  round  temple 
dedicated  to  San  Miguel,  said  to  be  one 
of  the  8th  centy.  The  angler  may 
hence,  skirting  the  hills,  visit  the  river 
Fresn^,  or  Freser,  at  Rxbas ;  and  then 
fish  in  the  Ter  to  Camprodon,  a  frontier 
town  of  500  Inhab.,  sads:ed  by  the 
French  in  1639,  and  again  Oct.  5, 1793. 
Hence  the  traveller  may  cross  the 
Puerto  into  France  to  Pratz  de  Mollo, 
and  proceed  up  the  valley  of  the 
Tech,  8  m.  to  Aries,  Now  the  Canigu, 
rising  almost  isolated  from  the  Pyre- 
nean  chain,  spreads  forth  its  spurs 
like  a  fan,  and  soars  a  real  mountain 
9141  feet  above  the  plains  of  Roussil- 
lon ;  the  ascent  is  not  difficult.  From 
Aries,  after  reaching  the  top,  whence 
the  views  over  sea,  river,  moontain, 
and  plain  are  superb,  descend  and 
sleep  either  at  the  forge  of  Valmania  or 
even  at  Prades.  Leaving  Aries  yon 
pass  by  the  old  watch-tower  of  Bateres, 
which  looks  over  the  valleys  of  the 
Tech  and  Tet ;  there  breakfast ;  then 
proceed  through  pine-woods  and  rho- 
dodendrons to  the  summit  (see  Hand- 
book for  France). 

Those  who  continue  in  Spain  may 
descend  the  Llera  from  Camprodon, 
which  falls  into  the  Fluvia  below  Cas- 
tellfolit,  Ripoll  (Pop.  some  950)  was 
nearly  destroyed  in  the  civil  -wars, 
which  much  injured  the  magnificent 
Benedictine  convent  built  in  the  lOtfa 
centy.  by  the  Abbot  Oliva,  and  an 
Escorial  from  the  9th  to  the  1 2th  centys. 
Here  rest  the  early  counts  from  Wtifred 
el  Velloso,  Mir,  Sune,  Sinofredo,  Borrel 
II.,  Bamon  de  Berenguer,  &c. ;  the 
particulars  of  the  tombs  are  detailed 
m  Yepes  (iv.  218),  there  is  talk  of  pre- 
serving them  in  a  Museo :  the  cloister 
is  very  curious,  especially  the  roma- 
nesque  capitals.  Below,  the  town  the 
Fresn^,  or  Fraser,  runs  into  the  Ter  ? 
thus  Ripoll  may  well  be  called  Rivis 


Catalonia. 


ROUTE  51. — BARCELONA  TO  PERPiSaN. 


431 


Pollens.  The  valley  is  charming :  the 
Ter  in  its  course  to  Vique  flows  near 
Roda  and  Amer,  through  some  narrow 
and  very  picturesque  rocks;  but  into 
what  lovely  and  secluded  secrets  of 
nature  does  not  trout-fishing  conduct 
us  I  This  stream  is  apt  to  be  either 
too  low  or  too  full  of  snow-water. 
Basalt-built  Olot  is  a  manufacturing 
town  of  9000  souls,  placed  between 
the  Fluvia  and  the  volcanic  hill  Mont- 
sacopa,  which  is  of  great  geological 
interest.  Other  craters  exist  on  the 
Mont  Olivet  and  el  Puig  de  la  Garrinada 
to  the  N.E.,  at  Bosch  de  Tosca,  and  a 
league  distant  at  Santa  Margarita  de  la 
Cot ;  as  the  whole  district  is  volcanic, 
the  intermediate  plains,  Pld  Sacot  and 
de  la  Davesa,  should  be  explored.  The 
Sopladores,  under  the  hill  Bat^t,  are  cool 
currents  which  blow  out  of  the  porous 
lava,  and  used  by  the  natives  as  refri- 
geratories. 

Six  L.  from  Eipoll  and  6j  from  Olot 
is  Vique,  Vich,  Ausona,  a  ciudad  and 
the  capital  of  its  temperate  and  fertile 
hill-girt  plain :  ancient  Ausona,  accord- 
ing to  native  annalists,  was  founded  by 
Auso,  son  of  Briga,  grandson  of  Noah. 
The  modern  name  Vich  is  a  corruption 
of  Vicns,  a  Roman  town  razed  by  the 
Moors  and  rebuilt  in  798.  Many  Roman 
antiquities  have  been  from  time  to 
time  discovered  and  neglected;  some 
inscriptions  are  preserved  in  the  Usp, 
Sag,,  xxviii.,  which  treats  of  this  dio- 
cese. The  city  is  placed  in  the  centre 
of  its  district,  on  a  slope ;  the  environs 
produce  com  and  fruit,  and  a  bad 
wine:  pop.  about  10,000,  partly  manu- 
facturing and  agricultural;  their  sau- 
sages are  excellent,  especially  the  Urnga- 
nizas.  The  irreeular  town  branches 
out  like  a  spider  s  web  from  a  centre 
group;  it  has  a  pleasant  rambla  and 
an  arcaded  plaza,  and  a  prison  in  the 
ancient  tower  of  Moncada  of  the  10th 
centy.  The  see,  a  bishopric  restored 
in  880,  in  970  was  raised  by  John  XIII. 
to  be  the  metropolitan  of  Catalonia ; 
this  dignity  reverted  to  Tarragona  in 
the  11th  centy.,  after  its  reconquest 
from  the  Moors.  The  cathedral,  re- 
built in  1038  by  the  Bishop  Oliva,  has 
been  modernised ;  it  contains  some  bad 
pictures   and  a  fine  Custodia,   1413, 


with  some  books  in  the  cloister  library. 
Observe  singular  pillars  and  capitals, 
the  work  of  Berengario  Portdl,  of 
Gerona,  1325.  Vich  was  repeatedly 
sacked  by  the  French,  and  near  it, 
Feb.  20, 1810,  Souham,  by  one  dashing 
French  charge,  put  14,000  Spaniards 
to  instant  flight,  their  General  E. 
O'Donnell  leading  the  way  to  the 
mountain  hides. 

Barcelona  is  12^  L.  distant  from 
Vich  by  Tona,  Ij  L.,  which  is  joined 
to  Colltispina,  and  has  on  its  hill  a 
ruined  castle,  and  an  ancient  church, 
founded  in  888.  Centellas,  or  Santa 
Columa  de  Centellas,  I  L.j  is  said  to 
have  been  so  called  from  the  Goth 
Chintila,  who  here  built  a  strong  for- 
tress, now  a  ruin ;  the  place,  like  Aigua 
Freda,  1  L.,  is  built  on  the  Congest. 
Thence  2  L.  to  Za  Garriga  ;  2  more  to 
Granollers,  Pop.  2200,  near  the  rivers 
Besos  and  Congost;  observe  on  the 
plaza  the  cobertizo,  supported  by  pillars ; 
2  L.  ofif  in  the  pine-clad  hills  is 
Codinas,  with  its  pinones,  and  petrifying 
cascade:  hence  to  Moncada  3  L., under 
its  hill,  which  is  separated  from  Eeixach 
by  the  Besos ;  the  ferru^nous  baths 
are  much  frequented :  here  the  Gerona 
high  road  is  entered,  and  2  L.  more 
lead  to  Barcelona.  Hostalrich,  on  the 
high  road  to  France,  lies  7  L.  S.  from 
Vich :  the  cold  Monseny  ridge  is 
crossed  near  Arbusias,  where,  on  the 
hill  San  Sagismundo,  the  fine  amethysts 
are  found  which  decorate  Catalan  ear- 
rings; the  shooting  here  is  excellent. 
At  Olot  the  road  branches  off  to  Ge- 
rona, 7  L.,  by  Mieras,  and  also  to 
Figueras  by  Besalii. 


BouTE  51. — Baecelona  to 
Peepinan. 

Moncada 2 

Montinal6     .....  2  ..  4 

Llinas 2  ..  6 

SanCeloni 3  ..  9 

Hostalrich 2i  ..  Hi 

Mallorquinas     .     .     .    .2  ..  13i 

Gerona 4  ..  17i 

Bascara 4  ..  21i 

La  Junquera      •    .     .     .  3  . .  24i 

AlBonloa 3  ..  27i 

Perpifian 4  . .  3li 

This,  the  upper  road,  is  by  no  means 
so  pleasant  as  that  which  runs  by  the 


432 


ROUTE  52. — BARCELONA  TO  GERONA, 


Sect.  VL 


coast,  Rte.  42.  The  country  to  Ge- 
rona,  by  both  roads,  is  densely  peopled, 
and  the  manufacturing  hive  is  in  per- 
fect contrast  with  the  silent,  lifeless 
Castiles  and  central  provinces;  we 
seem  positively  to  be  in  another  planet. 
This  comer  or  the  Peninsula  has  from 
time  immemorial  been  exposed  to  the 
invader,  who,  whether  Celt,  Gaul, 
Roman,  Goth,  or  French,  have  ravaged 
it  in  their  turns :  under  the  reign  of 
terror  of  Duhesme  el  cruel  and  Au- 
gereau,  the  air  was  poisoned  by  the 
putrefying  bodies  of  peasants,  executed 
without  even  the  form  of  a  trial  (To- 
reno,  xi.).  The  road  is  carried  under 
the  cold  Monseny  range,  amid  a  wild 
pine-clad  broken  country ;  on  the 
heights  of  Llinas,  Vives  and  Reding 
ventured,  Dec.  16,  1808,  to  oppose  St. 
Cyr,  who  was  advancing  on  Barcelona, 
after  the  capture  of  Rosas,  which  Vives 
had  not  even  attempted  to  prevent. 
The  Spaniards  were  completely  routed, 
Vives  running  away  on  foot.  Reding  on 
horseback ;  and  yet,  in  this  hilly  broken 
country,  by  a  proper  guerrillero  and  de- 
fensive warfare,  the  French,  driven  to 
great  straits,  might  have  easily  been 
cut  off  in  detail. 

HosTALRicH,  once  the  most  impor- 
tant fortress  on  this  high  road,  was 
taken  by  the  French  in  1694,  when  the 
town  was  sacked,  and  the  fortifica- 
tions ruined,  repaired  afterwards,  in 
Feb.  1810  they  were  held  by  Julian  de 
Estrada  for  4  months  against  Auge- 
reau,  the  garrison  at  last  cutting  out 
its  way,  and  getting  safely  to  Vich: 
Augereau  vented  his  spite  by  tortur- 
ing and  burning  alive  many  of  the  left 
behind  (Schep.  i.  256). 


KoiTTE  52. — ^Babcelo^a  to  Gebona. 

Badalona 2 

Mataro 3     ..     6 

St.  Pol 2*  . .    U 

Tordera 3     ..  lOi 

Granota 2i  ..  13 

Gerona 2i  ..  15i 

A  railroad  from  Barcelona  to  Matard, 
some  15  m.,  is  the  first  ever  laid  down 
in  Spain,  thanks  to  the  aid  of  Hercules 


Britannicus,  for  no  where  previously 
did  carts  stick  in  deeper  ruts  than  in 
commercial  Catalonia ;    nature,  how- 
ever, was  bountiful  enough,  and  this 
coajst-line  is  truly  delightful  — a  con- 
stant interchange  of  hill    and  plain, 
with  the  blue  sea  on  one  side  and  the 
rich  maritime  strip  on    the  other,  a 
sunny  scene,  where  the  aloe  hedges  the 
^rden- farms  of  orange  and  lemon  with 
impenetrable  palisade  ;  the  cottages  are 
neat  and  clean.    There  is  little  here  of 
Castilian  poverty  or  idleness:   on  all 
sides  the  women  are  knitting,  the  la- 
bourers   delving,   and    the   fishermen 
trimming  their  picturesque  craft.    Oc- 
cupation renders  all  happy,  while  in- 
dustry enriches,  and  these   charming 
districts  continue  to  be  what  they  were 
of  old  described  by  Fest.  Avienus  (Or. 
Mar.  520),  Sedes  amoense  ditiam. 

Badalona,  Bethulonia,  on  the  Besos, 
near  the  sea,  contains  about  5000  ma- 
nufacturing,   busy,    and    amphibious 
souls.     The  ancient  joarroguta  is  built 
on  Roman  foundations,  bat  few  anti- 
quities found  here  have  been  ever  pre- 
served.    The  coast  is  charming,  dotted 
about  with  pines,  and  sweet    groves 
tenanted  by  nightingales,    and    l^ed 
with  fruit  and  corn,  with   the  sweet 
blue  sea  gladdening  the  eye  and  tem- 
pering the  summer  heats.    Matard — Il> 
luro  (Tnws,  Posada  de  las  Diligencica— 
Meson  de  la  i^Wr#e)— rises  on   the  sea, 
surrounded  on  the  land  side    by  ver- 
durous  gardens.      The  hermitage  S, 
Mateu  and  the  Moorish  tower  JBarriack 
on  their  heights  form  landmarks  for 
ships.      Elevated  to  the    rank    of  a 
ciudad  since   1701,  it  contains    13,000 
busy,  industrious  souls,  and  is  increas- 
ing.    The  port  is  capable    of    much 
improvement.     The  town,  of  an  irre- 
gular shape,  has  two  good  plazas,  a 
well-managed  hospital,  and  a  fine  spa- 
cious i>arro^M»a,  with  6  pictures  by  Vi- 
ladomat,  in  the  Capillade  los  I>oloies; 
5  represent  the  Saviour  bearing   the 
Cross,   in  difierent  phases  of  agony; 
the  Santa  Veronica  and  Virgin,  on  blue 
and  white  drapery,  is  worthy  of  Mn- 
rillo.     The  otdest  church  is  San  Mtgvd 
de  Mata,  whence  some  derive  the  ci^ 
name,  and  explain  the  armorial  bett^ 
ings,  or  4  bars  gules,  a  hand  lioldiBg 


m 


w^ 


Catalonia, 


ROUTE  62. — GERONA. 


433 


a  sprig,  Mata,  with  the  word  Rd.  The 
chief  street  is  La  Biera  (the  river, 
Bambla)  ;  the  well  watered  town  has  a 
tortuous  old,  and  a  more  regular  new, 
quarter:  in  the  former  the  better 
classes  reside,  while  the  operatives  and 
sailors  people  the  latter.  The  marine 
suburb  is  connected  with  the  upper  by 
las  Escaleras.  The  principal  approaches, 
both  from  Barcelona  and  Gerona,  are 
handsome  streets.  Mataro  has  at  last 
recovered  the  terrible  sacking  by  Du- 
hesme,  June  1 7, 1808 ;  he  was  quartered 
for  2  months  here^  and  received  as  an 
ally  and  a  guest.  On  quitting  he  re- 
paid the  hospitality  by  bloodshed  and 
pillage.  Southey  C^iii.)  and  Toreno 
(iv.)  give  the  details.  Duhesme  pur- 
sued his  road  to  Gerona,  **  a  red  trail 
of  fire  and  blood  marking  his  progress" 
(Schep.  iii.  227).  This  man,  known 
here  as  El  Cruel,  was  sent  to  his  account 
at  Gemappe,  while  skulking  away  after 
Waterloo, 

At  Catilla  the  road  turns  inland, 
and  the  country  becomes  more  broken 
and  less  cultivated.  Gerona  rises  above 
the  Ter,  exposed  indeed  to  the  north 
winds,  but  overlooking  a  sunny,  well- 
irrigated  plain ;  placed  by  its  military 
position  in  the  very  jaws  of  every  in- 
vader, at  no  period  has  it  escaped 
sieges,  nor  have  the  fierce  natives 
shunned  the  encounter.  Their  wild 
district  has  always  been  the  lair  of  the 
bold  bandit  and  Querrillero,  unchanged 
since  the  days  of  Festus  Avienus  (Or. 
Mar.  528) : 

"  Post  Indigetes  asperi  Be  proferunt. 
Gens  ista  dura,  gens  ferox  venatibus 
Lustrisque  inherens." 

Ferocity  is  indeed  inherent;  but  with 
the  vices  they  have  the  rude,  hardy 
virtues  of  uncivilized  mountaineers. 

Gerona,  Gerunda,  is  of  most  remote 
antiquity  :  the  diligence  inn  is  the  best. 
Some  derive  the  name  from  Geryon, 
-who  kept  oxen  near  Cadiz,  exactly  the 
most  distant,  and  most  unlikely  point : 
others  contend  for  the  Celtic  Ger,  near, 
and  Ond,  a  confluence ;  and  it  is  placed 
near  the  junction  of  the  Ter  and  the 
Ona.  These  matters  are  discussed  in  the 
*  JResumen  de  las  Grandezas,*  Juan  Gasper 
Boig  y  Yalpi,  fol.  Barcelona,  1678,  and 
in  the^sp./^o^.xliii.  iv.v.  Gerona  boasts 

S^in, — I. 


to  be  the  first  town  in  which  Santiago 
and  St.  Paul  rested  when  they  came  to 
Spain;  which  neither  did.  While  in 
tne  possession  of  the  Moors,  and  placed 
between  France  and  Spain,  like  other 
limitrophe  districts,  it  sided  alternately 
with  each,  and  generally  with  the 
former.  It  was  taken  in  785  by  Charle- 
magne, the  **  heavens  raining  blood,  and 
angels  appearing  with  crosses"  (^Esp, 
Sag.,  xliii.  74).  The  Moors  regained  and 
sacked  it  in  795.  It  was  soon  recovered 
by  its  **  Counts,"  and  then,  passing  to 
Aragon,  gave  the  title  of  Prince  to  the 
king's  eldest  son.  Of  the  Moorish 
period  there  remains  an  elegant  bath 
in  the  Capuchin  convent,a  light  pavilion 
rising  from  an  octangular  stylobate. 

Gerona,  a  ciudad,  well-bidlt  and 
massy.  Pop.  about  8000,  is  the 
capital  of  its  district,  the  see  of  a 
bishop,  a  plaza  de  armas.  It  lies  under 
the  fortified  Montjuich  hill,  is  of  a  tri- 
angular form,  with  streets  narrow  but 
clean,  and  has  3  plazas :  the  Mercadel, 
or  suburb,  parted  off  by  the  Ona,  is 
very  ancient.  The  city  is  much  dila- 
pidated from  the  French  siege  and 
bombarding ;  it  bears  for  arms,  or,  the 
4  Catalan  bars  gules,  and  an  escutcheon 
of  waves  azure.  The  see  was  founded 
in  786  by  Charlemagne.  The  early 
cathedral  was  pulled  down  and  rebuilt 
in  1316 ;  in  1416  a  dispute  arose  whether 
the  bold  plan  by  Guillermo  Boflfy  of 
one  nave  should  be  changed  into  3 :  a 
jury  of  12  architects  was  8ummoned,who 
decided  on  the  single  plan.  Cean.  Ber. 
(Arch.  i.  92,  261)  has  printed  all  the 
deliberations,  which  evince  the  serious 
consideration  with  which  these  mighty 
works  of  old  were  reared.  The  ap- 
proach is  magnificent,  and,  as  at  Tarra- 
gona, a  superb  flight  of  86  steps,  raised 
in  1607  by  Bishop  Zuazo,  leads  up  to 
the  faqade,  wMch  is  in  the  Grseco- 
Romano  style,  rising  in  tiers,  order 
above  order,  and  terminated  with  an 
oval  rose-window:  from  the  square 
belfry  the  panorama  is  beautiful.  Be- 
fore entering,  look  at  the  Puerto  de  hs 
Apostoles  and  the  terra-cotta  statues  of 
1458.  The  interior,  wi^  its  semi- 
circular absis,  is  simple  and  grandiose. 
The  Silleria  del  Coro  is  of  the  early  part 
of  the  16th  century:  observe  the  epis* 

u 


434 


ROUTE  62. — GEBONA — THE  FLIES. 


Sect. 


copal  throne.  The  isolated  altar  be- 
longed to  the  older  church;  observe 
the  frontal,  the  paintings,  and  some 
early  enamelled  fifures,  a.d.  1038,  and 
a  noble  retabh  and  pillared  tabernacle 
by  Pedro  Benes.  A  fine  crozier  and  a 
cnstodia  escaped  from  the  mass  of 
sacred  plate  that  was  carried  off  by  the 
invaders.  Observe  the  sepulchres  of 
Bamon  Berenguer  II.  (Cap,  de  E8topa\ 
and  his  wife  ffrmesendis,  ob.  1058,  and 
that  of  Bishop  Anglesola,  and  in  the 
chapel  of  San  Pablo  that  of  Bernardo 
de  Favo.  Next  visit  the  Sala  Capitular^ 
and  the  cloisters  with  quaint  capitals 
like  those  of  Vich  and  RipoU,  and  exe- 
cuted by  Berengario  Portell,  1325.  In 
the  Galilea  and  the  Cementerio  de  los 
Negros  are  some  very  ancient  lapidary 
inscriptions.  In  the  archives  in  the 
cloister  are  some  early  MSS.  and  a 
Bible,  written  in  1374  by  Bemardin 
Mutina  for  Charles  V.  of  France,  but 
ascribed  here  to  Charlemagne. 

The  Colegiata  de  San  Feliu  is  also  ap- 
proached by  a  staircase  between  two 
polygonal  towers;  from  the  earliest 
times  this  church  was  half  a  fortress. 
The  grand  relics  are  the  head  of  San 
Feliu  and  the  body  of  San  Narciso,  who 
was  Bishop  of  Gerona  from  304  to  307. 
For  their  lives  and  deeds  consult  Padre 
Roig  and  Ribad.  iii.  31 1 .  San  Narciso, 
with  his  deacon  Feliu  (Felix),  when 
at  Augsburgh,  put  up  by  mischance  at 
a  "  Burdell,"  and  there  wrought  his 
first  miracle,  by  converting  Afra  his 
hostess,  and  3  of  her  frail  ladies,  Digna, 
Eumenia,  and  Eutropia,  "  worthy, 
well  behaved,  and  well  speaking*' 
damsels,  who  afterwards  swelled  the 
list  of  Mrs.  Jameson's  ^*  Bienheureuses 
Pecheresses."  Killed  on  his  return  to 
Spain  by  the  Gentiles  while  saying 
mass,  the  site  where  his  body  lay  was 
revesded  by  angels  to  Charlemagne, 
and  he  became  the  tutelar  of  Gerona, 
which  from  its  frontier  situation  al- 
ways needed  one  much.  Thus,  when 
Philip  le  Hardi,  anxious  to  avenge  the 
Sicilian  Vespers,  invaded  CatsJonia, 
and  began  plundering  the  silver  on 
the  saint's  tomb,  there  forthwith  issued 
from  the  body  a  plague  of  flies :  the 
clerical  authorities  differ  as  to  their 
colour,  some  affirming  that  they  were 


white,  others  that  they  were  tri-co- 
loured,   blue,  green,   and  red,    while 
Father  Roig  is  positive  that  they  were 
"  half  green,  naif  blue,  with  a  red 
stripe  down  their  backs."     Be  this  as 
it  may,  they  destroyed  no  less  than 
24,000  horses  and  40,000  Frenchmen; 
nay,   the  king  himself  sickened  and 
died  at  Perplnan,  Oct.  5,  1285.     Hence 
the  proverb  "  Las  Moscas  de  San  Not' 
cxso"  These  gad-flies  re-appeared  Sept. 
24,  1653,  and  compelled  the  French, 
under  La  Mothe-Houdaincourt,  to  re- 
tire once  more,  having  then  stung  to 
death,  according  to  Padre  Roig,  no 
less  than  20,000  horses.     Again,  May 
24,  1684,  an  enormous  single  parti- 
coloured fly  appeared  miraculou^y  on 
the  image  of  the  saint,  and  the  French 
army,  under  Bellfonds,  either  died  or 
ran  away.     As  this  miracle  was  au- 
thenticated by  Isidro  Vila,  the  town- 
clerk,  Innocent  XI.  decreed  a  national 
thanksgiving  to  Narciso,  as  "  the  Sa- 
viour of  Spain ;"  on  the  29th  of  every 
October  is  still  a  first-rate  fair  and  hok- 
day.  The  local  Junta  in  1808  declared 
this  Hercules  Muscarius,  this  A^t/twus, 
this  Baalzebub,  to  be  their  captain- 
general  ;  and  on  his  tomb  was  laid  the 
staff  of  command,  in  order  that  this 
glorioso  e  intficto  martir  as  especialisimo 
protector  y  generaiisimo,  might  infuse 
luces  y  valor,  intelligence  and  courage, 
into  mortal  Spanish  generals.      The 
whole  decree  was  republished  in  1832 ! 
in  the  Esp,  Sag,  xlv.   90,   -with  the 
names  of  the  32  deputies  who  signed 
it,  headed  by  the  identical  Jaime  Creox 
who,  as  the  representative  of  Catalonia, 
opposed  the  giving  command   to  the 
Duke  of  Wd^gton,  just  when 
Cortes  of  Cadiz  preferred  Sta.  Th< 
but  these  Spanish  flies  are  not  Cosas 
Espana  alone.   Such  things  and  Brevel 
are  quite  Peninsular.    So  San  Ante 
was  nominated  the  generalissimo  (t 
San  Narciso)  of  the  Lusitanians.     i 
though  he  never  served  while  alive, 
was  called    into   active    employnu 
when  dead,  and  was  enrolled  in  I6881 
a  private — the  Virgin  being  his  sui 
that  he  would  not  desert ;  in  1 760 
was  made  a  ^neral  oflBcer,  and  Ji 
in  1807,  received  his  pay  with  the 
gularity  of  a  true  believer  (J^oj, 


Catalonia, 


EOUTE  52,  53.^ — GERONA. 


435 


19).  This  Crenx,  afterwards  arch- 
bishop of  Tarragona,  headed  the  Car- 
list  and  servile  party,  and  died  in 
1825. 

Gerona,  in  the  War  of  the  Succes- 
sion, made  a  desperate  resistance  with 
2000  men  against  19,000  troops  of 
Philip  v.,  who  abolished  its  university 
and  all  its  liberties.  In  June  1808, 
Gerona,  garrisoned  with  300  men  of  the 
Ulster  regiment,  under  0*Daly,  beat  off 
Duhesme,  Ei  Cruel,  with  some  6000 
men  :  he  returned  with  fresh  forces  in 
July,  boasting  that  he  would  arrive  the 
24th,  attack  the  25th,  take  it  the  26th, 
and  rase  it  on  the  27  th ;  but  he  was 
baffled  and  beaten  off  again  by  that 
marine  gadfly  Lord  Cochrane.  Not 
daring  to  go  near  the  sea,  Duhesme 
retreated,  Aug.  16,  by  the  hills,  pur- 
sued by  Calds^es,  and  lost  his  cannon, 
baggage,  and  reputation.  At  that 
critical  moment  10,000  English  troops 
were  ordered  from  Sicily,  and,  had  they 
landed,  Buonaparte  could  never  have 
won  Catalonia.  Unfortunately  the  loss 
of  the  island  of  Capri  by  Sir  Hudson 
Lowe  enabled  the  French  to  threaten 
the  potterer  Sir  John  Murray,  and  the 
troops  did  not  sail.  The  Catalans  were 
thus  left  unassisted,  and  thereby  this 
province  and  Valencia  were  lost.  The 
English  only  interfered  on  this  coast 
when  too  late,  and  then  were  led  by 
bunglers  only  to  do  worse  than  nothing. 
(See  Biar,  Ordal,  Tarra^na,  &c.) 

Gerona  was  again  besieged  in  May, 
1809,  by  the  French  with  35,000  men, 
under  Verdier,  St.  Cyr,  and  Augereau. 
The  governor  Mariano  Alvarez,  left 
by  the  Junta  in  want  of  everything, 
even  of  ammunition,  was  brave  and 
skilful,  and  well  seconded  by  some 
English  volunteers  under  the  gallant 
Col.  Marshall,  who  took  the  lead  and 
was  killed  in  the  breaches  :^  Pearson, 
Nash,  and  Candy  also  distinguished 
themselves.  The  women  of  Gerona 
also  enrolled  themselves  into  a  com- 
pany, dedicated  to  Santa  Barbara,  the 
patroness  of  Spanish  artillery.  The 
enemy  bombarded  the  city — the  re- 
sistance was  most  dogged — general 
after  general  failed,  and  the  siege  be- 
came so  unpopular  that  Lechi,  Verdier, 
and  others  took  French  leave.    At  last 


famine  and  disease  effected  what  force 
of  arms  could  not.  Alvarez  became 
delirious,  and  with  him  Gerona  fell ; 
for  Samaniego,  his  traitorous  succes- 
sor, forthwith  capitulated,  and  the 
place  fell  December  12,  1809.  The 
defence  lasted  7  months  and  5  days, 
against  7  open  breaches.  The  French 
expended  60,000  balls  and  20,u00 
bombs,  and  lost  more  than  15,000  men. 
Augereau  broke  every  stipulation,  and 
Insulted  the  invalid  Alvarez,  instead  of 
honouring  a  brave  opponent,  confining 
him  in  a  solitary  dunceon,  where  he 
was  soon  "  found  dead,  say  the  French 
— "  poisoned,"  says  Toreno  (x.  Ap.  3) ; 
and  Southey  compares  his  fate  to  that 
of  Wright  and  Pichegru.  He  lies  buried 
in  San  Feliu  in  a  simple  sarcophagus. 
This  gallant  but  unavailing  defence, 
like  that  of  Zaragoza  and  Cuidad 
Rodrigo,  redeems  ^e  scandalous  sur- 
renders of  Badajoz,  Tortosa,  &c.,  by 
the  traitors  and  "  children  in  the  art 
of  war"  of  the  Blake,  Imaz,  and  Alache 
breed. 

For  the  siege  of  Gerona  consult 
*  Memorias'  J.  A.  Nieto  y  Samaniego, 
Tarragona,  1810,  and  Madoz,  viii.  378. 

La  Bispal  lies  5  L.  to  the  1.  of  Ge- 
rona. Here,  in  September  1810,  Henry 
O'Donnell,  aided  by  English  tars,  took 
the  ever  unlucky  blunderer  Schwartz 
prisoner  with  1200  men. 

From  Gerona  there  is  a  bridle-road 
to  the  1.  into  France. 

The  rugged  alpine  frontier  of  the 
Pyrenees  is  indeed  threaded  by  infinite 
tracks  and  passes  made  by  the  wild 
goats  and  smugglers;  it  will  always 
be  prudent  to  take  a  local  guide  and 
a  contrahandista  if  possible :  attend  also 
to  the  provend.  The  large  map  of 
the  Pyrenees  by  Arrowsmith  is  useful. 

RoiTTB  63.— Gebona  to  St.  LxrEEKT. 

BaiSoIas 2 

Besalfi 2  ..    4 

Entreperas 3  ..    7 

Basagoda 2i  ..    9i 

St.  Laurent U  ..  11 

Turning  to  the  rt.  from  Besalti  the 
road  ascends  the  Llera,  on  which  Eti" 
treperas  is  placed.  Basagoda  commu- 
nicates with  Camprodon  by^  the  Coll 
de  Fac,  and  is  the  last  town  in  Spain. 

V  2 


436 


ROUTE  54. — ^FERDINAND  VU.— FIGIJERAS. 


Sect.  VI. 


Boins  54. — Geroxa  to  Pebpi  if  ax. 

BMcara 4 

FIsnerM 3  ..     f 

AlaJunquera     .     .    •     .3  ..10 

AlBoulou 3  ..  13 

PerpiAan 4  ..  17 

On  leaving   Ga'on'i  the  Flnvia  is 
crossed  by  a  high  and  narrow  bridge. 
On  these  banks  Ferdinand  VII.,  tra- 
velling under  the  title  of  Conde  de 
Barcelona,  was  restored  to  Spun,  March 
24,  1814,  by  Buonaparte,  whose  pride 
had  too  long  obscured  his  mihtary 
judgment.    Had  he  taken  that  step 
sooner  Ferdinand  would  have  been 
another  apple  of  discord  to  the  English, 
against  whom  the  cortes  and  priests 
were  plotting ;  again,  by  withdrawing 
Suchet's  army,  Buonaparte  would  have 
had  greater,  means  to  resist  the  vie- 
torious  Duke  when  invading  France ; 
but  Spain  was  invaded  by  perfidy  and 
bad  policy,  and  poeticid  justice  re- 
auir^  that  it  should  be  his  pit.    Fer- 
ainand  came  back  attended   by  his 
tutor,  Elscoiquiz,  who  had  lured  him 
in  1808  into  the  Bayonne  trap.    Pe- 
dant   and    pupil    both    returned    as 
Spanish  as  they  had  gone  forth — no- 
thing learnt,  nothing  forgotten.    The 
Duke,  however,  thought  better  of  the 
king  than  of  his  ministers.    He  also 
foresaw  the  termination  of  the  im- 
practicable   cortes   and    constitution, 
and  (Desp.  Sept.  5,  1813),  felt  certain 
"  that  if  Ferdinand  should  return  he 
would  overturn  the  whole  fabric,  if  he 
has  any  spirit  :*'  and  as  he  did,  nothing 
loth,   and   urjzed  on  by  the   nation, 
which,  sick  of  petty  tyrants,  fled  from 
liberales  and  democrats  to  the  throne. 
Ferdinand    was  well    disposed,    and 
meant    and  wished    to    have    acted 
fairly,  but  it  was  impossible,  as  his 
party   was  too  strong  for  him,  and 
clamoured  for  Iberian  Vengahza,    He 
fell  also  into  the  worst  hands,  and 
especially  Freire  and  Ballesteros,  his 
war  ministers,   who    prejudiced  him 
against  the   English,   and   especially 
against  the  Duke,  falsely  stating  that 
he  patronised  a  liberal  newspaper  called 
El  Conciso,     Thus,   when   the   Duke 
arrived  at  Madrid,  Ferd.  VII.,  although 
outwardly  very  civil,  never  touched 


on  political  subjects.  The  Duke  was 
very  nearly  being  obliged  to  go  and 
lodge  at  his  brother^s  house,  when  a 
hint  was  ^ven  by  Gen.  O'liawlor  to 
the  Duque  de  San  Carlos,  and  a  proper 
residence  was  provided;  nor  did  the 
king,  although  the  Duke  would  have 
liked  it,  ever  offer  to  give  him  a  per- 
manent house  there  in  his  quality  of 
grandee.  The  Duke  saw  at  once  how 
things  were  going  on,  and  passing 
through  Tolosa  on  his  return,  told 
Gen.  Giron,  **  c'est  une  affaire  perdue," 
and  he  was  right. 

Figueras,  Ficaris,  Fonda  del  Comercio, 
a  straggling  place,  rises  in  its  rich  pine- 
dotted  plam  of  olives  and  rice ;  aU  are 
busy  here,  the  men  With  spades,  the 
women  with  the  needle,  while  nightin- 
gales cheer  their  work.    Pop.  about 
8000.    Here  the  traveller  should  ex- 
change his  Spanish  money  for  French, 
or  his  French  for  Spanish,  as  the  case 
may  be,  remembering  always  that  five- 
franc  pieces,  or  the  pillared  duro,  are 
the  safest  coins  to  take.    Those  who 
now  enter  Spain  for  the   first   time 
should  read  our  preliminary  remarks 
on  money,  passports,  sketching,  cos- 
tume, &c.,  and  may  remember  that  Bar- 
celona is  a  capital  place  for  a  Spanish 
outfit.    In  the  parish  church  Philip 
v.,  November  3,  1701,  was  married  to 
Maria  Luisa  of  Savoy.    The  glory  of 
Figueras  and  her  shame  is  the  saperb 
citadel,  which  is  called  San  Fernando^ 
having  been  built  by  Ferdinand  VI. 
Pentagonal,  rock  hewn,  and  plajined 
on  the  principles  of  Vauban,  of  truly 
Roman  magnificence  and  solidity,  as 
far  as  art  can  go,  it  ought  to  be  im- 
pregnable.   The  arsenals,^  magazines, 
&c.,  are  capable  of  containing  ample 
garrison  stores,  &c.,  all  usually  found 
"wanting  in  the  critical  moment." 
In  the  prison,  Alvarez,  the  hero  of 
Gerona,  was.  ** found  dead"^  although 
Augereau  held  no  coroner's  inquest  on 
the  body.    Gen.  Castanos  marked  the 
spot  by  an  inscription.    The  fortress, 
thus  placed  as  a  central  point  of  com- 
munication, is  the  key  of  the  frontier, 
or  ought  to  be ;  for  well  did  Mr.  Towns- 
hend  observe,  in  1786,  while  it  was 
in  progress  of  building,  **When  the 
moment  of  trial  comes,  the  whole  will 


Cai(donia. 


ROUTE  54. — GERONA  TO  PERPiSaN. 


437 


depend  on  the  weakness  or  treachery 
of  a  commander,  and,  instead  of 
being  a  defence  to  the  country,  it 
may  afford  a  lodgment  to  the  enemy ;" 
and  his  prophetic  apprehensions 
proved  too  well  founded.  The 
miserable  governor,  one  Andre  Tor- 
res, surrendered,  November  28,  1794, 
at  the  first  summons  of  the  republi- 
can Gen.  Perignon,  who,  having 
under  15,000  men,  could  scarcely  be- 
lieve their  success,  or  the  astound- 
ing cowaidice  of  a  ^rrison  which  had 
every  means  of  resisting  even  60,000 
men  for  at  least  six  months. 

Again,  March  18,  1808,  this  citadel 
was  gained  at  once  by  Buonaparte, 
whose  agent,  Duhesme,  pretending 
to  be  the  ally  of  Charles  IV.,  pre- 
vailed on  the  governor,  one  Prats,  to 
confide  in  his  honour,  and  to  impri- 
son therein  200  unruly  conscripts; 
instead  of  whom  he  sent  his  picked 
soldiers  in  disguise,  who  immediately 
overpowered  the  Spanish  garrison, 
inefficient  in  numbers,  and  unpro- 
vided with  the  commonest  means 
for  defence:  so  true  is  the  Spanish 
remark — this  fine  citadel  always  be- 
longs to  us  in  the  time  of  peace,  and 
to  the  French  in  time  of  war.  It  is  in 
fact  a  faiblesse  not  a  fortress,  an  ex- 
pence  to  be  kept  up  in  peace,  and  in 
war  a  stronghold  for  the  enemy.  The 
position  itself  is  ill  chosen,  from  the 
constant  fevers  which  decimate  the 
garrison :  no  canal  has  yet  been  made 
to  Rosas,  by  which  these  pestilential 
districts  might  easily  be  drained. 

Strong  as  it  is,  yet  Figmras  was  re- 
captured in  one  hour,  April  10,  1811, 
by  Rovira,  a  doctor  in  theology  I  who, 
having  friends  in  the  town,  had  long 
wished  to  attempt  its  surprise,  but  was 
thwarted  by  the  blundering  regular 
generals,  who  laughed  at  the  idea  as  a 
Quixotism,  a  Bovirada:  the  doctor,  with 
some  peasants,  succeeded  from  sheer 
boldness  of  conception  and  execution. 
The  careless  French  governor,  Guyot, 
was  condemned  to  death  for  form's 
sake,  and  a  theatrical  scene  was  ^t 
up,  when  Buonaparte  pardoned  him. 
All  this  French  farce  is  bepraised  by 
Napier  (xiii.  6),  who  deals  gently  with 
his  idoFs  subsequent  cruelty  to  the 


brave  Spaniards.  Rovira  was  rewarded 
by  preferment  in  the  cathedral  of  Vich, 
a  common  practice  at  that  period. 
FigueraSj  thus  taken  by  the  theolo- 
gian, was  as  quickly  lost  by  the  regular 
general,  the  blunderer  Campoverde, 
who,  while  creeping — socorros  de  Us" 
pafia — to  its  tardy  re-supply  of  troops 
and  provisions,  was  met.  May  3,  by 
General  Baraguay  d'Hilliers,  who,  with 
some  4000  men,  by  one  dashing  cavalry 
charge,  completely  routed  10,000  Spa- 
niards, killing  900,  and  taking  1500 
prisoners. 

Figueras,  left  to  itself,  besieged  and 
bombarded  by  13,000  Frenchmen,  was 
gallantlyl  defended  by  the  governor, 
Martinez,  who,  after  nearly  5  months' 
resistance,  when  all  food  and  am- 
munition failed,  capitulated  (Aug. 
16)  on  honourable  terms,  all  of  which 
were  violated  by  Macdonald.  After 
sundry  'executions  the  brave  garrison 
was  marched  half-naked  to  the  hulks 
of  Brest  and  Rochefort,  and  there  com- 
pelled by  Buonaparte  to  work  like  con- 
victs. (Southey,  Chr.  38).  The  lo- 
cality is  one  of  rivers  and  hills,  most 
of  which  are  crowned  with  old  frontier 
towers  and  hermitages.  The  inhabi- 
tants, Pyrenean  highlanders,  are  fond 
of  their  local  dances,  the  contrapas  and 
sardana,  as  of  fives,  la  pelota.  The 
flannel  mantilla  of  the  women,  la 
capucha,  and  the  stick,  garroty  of  the 
males,  are  remarkable. 

Leaving  Figueras,  the  road,  after  pass- 
ing the  Llobregat,  reaches  La  Junquera, 
in  its  reedy  phiin  or  garganta  between 
the  hills.  From  the  quantity  of  esparto 
which  grows  here,  the  site  was  ciUled 
by  the  ancients  Campus  Juncarius,  and 
also  "  the  plain  of  Marathon,"  from 
fjMpa$my  a  rope  (Strabo,  iii.  240).  Here 
is  the  Spanish  aduana. 

Now  -^e  ascend  the  mountain  barrier 
of  the  Pyrenees,  and  passing,  by  rough 
and  picturesque  stages,  mid  rocks  and 
cork  trees,  over  the  Col  de  PertHSf  de- 
scend to  El  Boulou,  The  height  looks 
over  Spain  and  France,  which  the 
Rubicon  Tech  separates.  To  the  1. 
above  the  village  PertHSj  is  the  pictur- 
esque fort  of  Bellegarde,  raised  in 
1679  by  Louis  XIV.  to  prevent  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Spaniards,  and  guard  b«** 


438 


BOUTE  55. — ^FIQUERAS  TO  ROSAS. 


Sect.  VL 


newly  acquired  slice  of  dominion. 
Placed  on  a  conical  hiU  between  2 
ridges,  it  ia  strong  althongh  com- 
manded by  the  Spanish  height,  from 
whence  there  is  an  extensive  view 
looking  towards  Figueras  and  the  snow- 
capped soaring  Canigu,  On  this  Puerto 
Pompej  erected  a  monument  inscribed 
with  the  names  of  876  places  which  he 
had  subdued.  Csesar,  when  he  also 
passed  by,  having  vanquished  the  ge- 
nerals and  sons  of  this  conqueror,  raised 
an  altar  by  the  side  of  the  former 
trophy.  N^othing  now  remains  of 
either.     Sic  transit  gloria. 

Soon  the  appearance  of  the  semi- 
soldier  French  douanier,  the  rigorous 
searchings  of  trunks,  nay  persons,  and 
the  signing  of  passports,  announce 
another  kingdom.  'Then  adieu  hungry 
Spain,  charming  land  of  the  original, 
racy,  and  romantic,  and  welcome  Belle 
France^  chosen  country  of  most  unpic- 
tnresqne  commonplace,  and  most  poeti- 
cal cookery.  But  tiie  comfort  of  a 
good  dinner,  good  road,  and  good  car- 
riage is  indeed  unspeakable,  after 
having  declined  the  word  ''rough 
it,"  in  all  its  tenses ;  oh,  dura  tellus 
Iberisel 


BOITTE  55. — ^FlOFESAS  TO  BOSAS. 

From  Figueras  there  is  a  wild  and 
picturesque  riding  route  into  France, 
along  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Rosas. 
On  one  side  Castellon  de  Ampurias,  now 
a  miserable  ruined  fishing  hamlet,  is 
all  that  remains  of  the  ancient  com- 
mercial Emporise,  Emporium,  EfA^ropiM 
Bfi^tpnof.  This  colony  of  the  Pho- 
csean  Greeks  from  Marseilles,  founded 
550  B.C.,  became  the  rendezvous  of 
Asia  and  Europe.  It  traded  then  in 
linen  as  now  in  calico.  The  Iberians 
beheld  these  foreign  settlers  with  great 
jealousy,  and  after  many  contests  came 
to  a  singular  compromise  :  the  Greeks 
were  allowed  to  occupy  the  island  rocks 
las  AfetaSf  Medas,  but  their  city,  Pale- 
opolis,  was  divided  from  the  Iberian 
town  by  a  party  wall,  which  was  regu- 
^irly  guarded  as  in  a  case  of  siege,  all 


intercommunication  being  cut  off,  The 
Romans,  when  Spain  was  conquered, 
broke  down  the  barrier,  and  united 
the  two  portions  under  their  para- 
mount authority.  The  mint  was  very 
busy,  and  the  coins  have  survived  the 
city,  as  30  have,  been  discovered,  all 
of  which  bear  the  head  of  Minerva  on 
the  reverse  ^Florez,  *  M.'  ii.  409).  For 
ancient  details  consult  Livy,  xxxiv.  9 ; 
Strabo,  iii.  241 ;  and  Esp.  Sag,,  xlii. 
202.  The  Goths  used  Emporise  kindly, 
and  raised  it  to  a  bishopric.  The  strong 
town  resisted  the  invading  Moors,  and 
was  by  them  dismantled ;  it  was  finally 
destroyed  by  the  Normans,  and  the  sea, 
by  retiring,  has  completed  the  injuries  < 
of  man. 

Sosas,  2^  Lb  from  Gerona,  with  its 
long  street  of  white  houses,  and  placed 
on  the  upper  part  of  the  bay,  was  the 
Greek  P«)/«y,  Rhodos ;  the  old  town,  it 
is  said,  lay  towards  the  headland,  at 
San  Pedro  de  Boda,    Below  the  town  is 
the  citadel,  which  was  besieged,  Nov. 
1794,  by  the  French  under  Perignon, 
and  gallantly  defended  by  Isquierdo, 
who,  when  his  inadequate  means  were 
exhausted,  managed,  Feb.  3,  to  embiurk 
and  save  his  garrison.    The  defences, 
half-ruined,  were  never  rep^red,  as  is 
usual  in  Spain  and  the  East ;  accord- 
ingly, when  the  next  war  broke  out, 
this  important  key  to  the  coast,  and 
of  Figueras,  was  left  exposed  to  the 
mercy  of  the  enemy.    Attacked,  Nov, 
1808,    by  7000  French  under  BeiUe, 
Souham,  and  St.  Cyr,  it  was  gallantly 
defended  by  O'Daly  and  Fitzgerald, 
who  had  good  Irish  blood  in   their 
veins:  it  held  out  for  29  days,  sur- 
rendering Dec.  5.    Meantime  no  effort 
was  made  by  any  Spaniards  to  relieve 
this  important  maritime  place,    as  a 
base  for  operations,  with  the  Mediter- 
ranean open ;  and  had  it  been  held, 
the  French  would  with  difficulty  have 
overrun  Catalonia,  which,  in  fact,-f8 
the  key  of  Figueras;  nay,  when  the 
English    afterwards  woidd   have   re- 
paired the  defences,  they  resisted  the  • 
ofifer,  suspecting  that  they  were  going 
to    keep    it    for   themselves.       Xx>ra 
Cochrane,  however,  who  commanded 
the   *  Imp^rieuse,'  on  the  25thy   just 
threw  some  80  blue  jackets  into    the 


Cataknia, 


FIGUERAS  TO  ROSAS. 


439 


headland  fort,  which  the  religious 
Spaniards  called  La  Trinidad^  and  the 
more  aesthetic  French  le  bouton  de  rose. 
These  tars  played  such  pranks  with 
their  cutlasses  as  only  British  sailors, 
rendered  reckless  by  uninterrupted 
victory,  can  venture  to  practise.  They 
beat  San  Narciso  and  his  Gerona  Spa- 
nish flies  hollow,  and  on  the  dOth 
repuls^  1000  of  the  enemy.  The 
"  mere  "  name  of  Cochrane,  however, 
(El  coco,  the  bugbear)  was  enough  to 
inspire  terror  to  the  enemies  of  Eng- 


land all  along  the  coast.  Rosas  and 
its  defences  were  reduced  to  ruin  by 
Suchet,  a  fate  to  which  this  frontier 
fort  has  immemorially  been  subject. 

Crossing  the  headland  and  passing 
the  Cabo  de  Creus,  the  site  of  the  tem- 
ple of  Venus  and  her  promontory,  a 
wild  coast-road  leads  by  Cervera  to 
France  and  Porte  VendreSf  Portus 
Veneris,  where  the  steamers  touch  in 
their  passages  to  and  from  Cadiz  and 
Marseilles. 


END  OF  PART  I. 


(     441     ) 


INDEX  TO   PAET   I. 


Abbreviations  :—Sp.  Spain,  Spanish,  Spaniards.    E.  England,  English. 

F.  France,  French. 


M.  Moors,  Moorish. 


ABANICO. 

Abanico,  fan,  67,  112 
Abasside,  dynasty,  225 
Abderahman,  225 
Abencerrages,  the,  292 
Abu  Jijsuf  Yacub,  173 
Abu  Said,  murder  of,  186 
Acebuche,  215 
Aceite,  215 
Acequias,  361 
Accident,  influence  of,  7 
AclimatacioQ,  garden  of, 

154 
Adam,  Sir  F.,  defeat,  407 
Addington,  Mr.,  300 
Adra,  331 

to  Cartagena,  333 

to  Granada,  329 


■^  to  Malaga,  332 


Aficion,  la,  67 

Afrancesado,  102 

Africa,  view  of,  148 

Agua  bendita,  58 

Aguardiente,  25 

Aguas  dulces,  255 

Aguila,  Conde  del,  211 

Aguilar,  A.  de,  281 

Agustin,  San,  203 

Austin,  Archbishop,  404 

Air,  Sp.,  dry  and  rare- 
fied, 32 

Airs  and  melody, Sp.,  107 

Ajaracas,  174 

Ajarafe,  165 

Alacha,  Conde  de,  397 

A  la  disposicion  de  V .,  122 

Alameda,  136 

Alameda,  costumes  on, 
117 


ALGIBES. 

Alameda,  town  of,  255 
Alar^on,  Se&or,  326 
Alarde,  357 
Albaicin,  296,  323 
Albigenses,  207 
Albuera,  the  battle,  249 
Albuera,  French  version 

of,  250 

,  Sp.  claims,  250 

Albufera,  the  lake,  381 
Albu&ol,  332 
Alcaide,  170 
Alcala  de  Guadaira,  159 

de  Gisbert,  388 

la  Real,  257 

del  Rio,  221 

Alcaiseria,  322 
Alcarrazas,  232 
Alcazaba,  302 
Alcazar  of  Seville,  185 
Alcira,  359,  383 
Alcolea,  232 
Alcoy,  356 
Alcublas,  384 
Aldrete,  escape  of,  323 
Alerce,  180,  228,  308 
Aletes,  325 
Alexander  VI.,  359 
Alfarache,  San  Juan  de, 

155 
Alfaqnes,  los,  389 
Alfonsinas,  las  tablas,  1 83 
Algara,  la,  304 
Algarabia,  66 
Algarrobo,  362 
Algebra,  174 
Algeciras,  siege  of,  152 
Algibes,  302 


AMARGURA. 

Alhama,  40,  289 
Alhamilla,  234 
Alhambra,  297 

by  night,  312 

Alharas,  227 
Alhaurin,  283 
Alicante,  354 

to  Carthagena,  351 

to  Elche,  354 

to  Xativa,  355 

Aljamia,  66 
All  Halloween,  208 
Almaden  del  Azogue,  220 
Almaden  to  SeviUe,  216 

to  Valdepefias,  246 

Almadraba,  145 
Almagra,  334 
Almagrera,  335 
Al-Mann,  307 
Almandralejo,  249 
Almazarron,  334 
Almenara,  387 
Almeria,  333 

to  Granada,  329 

to  Jaen,  325 

Almizates,  172 
Almohades,  226 
Almorayides-Murabi- 

tins,  226 
Almu&ecar,  332 
Alpargata,  235,  365 
Alpujarras,  329 
AloDso  el  Sabio,  169 
Aloque,  wine,  354 
Alvar  Fanez,  366 
Alvarez,  M.,  435 
Alvaro,  M.  de,  376 
Amargura,  calle  de,  ' 
u3 


442 


INDEX  TO  PART  L 


AMA8. 

Arnas,  189 

Amontillado,  140,  157 
Amphitheatre  at  Italica, 

213 
Amposta,  389 

to  Fraga,  396 

Ampurias,  438 
Ancient  mines,  340 
Andalosh,  126 
Andalucia,  126 
Andaluza,  girl  singing, 

106 
Andar  de  Zeca  en  Meca, 

228 
Andas,  53 
Andorra,  429 
Andriani,  L.,  386 
Andujar,  232 
Andujar  to  Granada,  258 
Anglers,  hints  to,  48 
Angustias,  San,  325 
Annals    of    Peninsular 

campaigns,  46 
Annals  of  Sp.  artists,  72 
Antella,  383 
Antequera,  264 
Antipathy,  Sp.,  to  trees, 

42 
Antonio,  Nicolas,  83 
Apes'  hill,  272 
Apes  of  Gibraltar,  277 
Arabes  en  Espafia,  His. 

de,  72 
Aracena,  218 
Arahal,  254 
Arana,  107 

Aranjuez,  gardens  of,  246 
Aranzada,  71 
Arancana,  poem^  246 
Arbofl,  407 
Arbusias,  431 
Archidona,  255,  265 
Archena,  348 
Architects  of  Sp.,  57 
Architecture,  Sp.,  55 

9  books  on  Sp.,  73 

Archives   of  Alhambra, 

307 
— ■  of  Arragon,  415 
Archivo  de  las  Indias,  1 77 
Arco  de  Bara,  407 
Arcos  de  la  Frontera,  263 
Ardites,  394 
Vreizaga,  J.  C,  defeat, 

'>45 


A8JA. 

Arenas,  Puerto  de,  259 
Arfe,  Juan  de,  182 
Argamasilla  de  Alba,  244 
Argote,  Simon  de,  295 
Arjona,  J.  M.,  90,160,208 
Armorial     bearings    of 
Sp.,  63 

of  the  Virgin,  196 

Arrabal,  296 
Arrayanes,  Patio  de  los, 

306 
Arrecifes,  20 
Arrieros,  muleteers,  23 
Arriguela,  256 
Arrizafa,  231 
Arroba,  71 
Arroyos,  32 
Arroz,  361 
Arrozales,  359,  362 
Arsenal,  Sp.  nayal,  350 
Arte  de  Pintura,  75 
Artesonado,  172,  308 
Artillery,  first  use  of,  149 
Artists,  hints  to,  45 
Artistical  tour,  45 
Artois,  Comte  d',  273 
Ascent    of    Sierra  Ne- 
vada, 327 
Asfeld,  Gen.,  357 
Ash^r,  305 
Assonants,  106 
Astapa,  255 
Astas,  96 
Atalayas,  162 
Atarazanas,  209 
Atendrio,  San,  259 
Atriles,  58 

Atun  escabechado,  145 
Augereau  cruelties,  432, 

435 
Aurum  Tolosanum,  233 
Authorities  quoted,  71 
Authors,  hints  to,  86 
Auto  de  Fe,  206 
Ave  Maria,  321 

Purisima,  195 

Averroes,  224 
Ayacuchos,  los,  247 
Ayala,  J.  J.  de,  75 
Ayamonte,  165 

to  San  Lucar,  162 

Ayat,  304 

Ay  I  de  mi  Alhama,  290 

Ayfac,  383 

Asj4,  305 


EL  BASTAK. 

Azahar,  186 
Azulejo,  173 
Azulejos,  colours  o^  305 
—  of  the   Alhambra^ 

305 
of  Valencia,  380 

B. 

Bacalao,  209 
Bacauds,  395 
Backshish,  121 
Badajoz  to  Seville,  248, 

249 
Badalona,  432 
Bad  government,  Sp.,  8, 

28,  209 
Bad  taste,  clerical,  Sp., 

189 
Baena^  256 
Haeza,  336 
Bsetican  zone,  29 
Baile,  nacionsi],  102 
Bailen,  the  battle,  233 

,  effects  of,  235 

Balatt,  Ludheric,  227 

Balax,  186 

Ballesteros,  misconduct, 

354 
Ball  ornament,  290 
Ba&ado,  184 
Banda,  la,  185 
Banderillas,  96 
Banking,  Sp.  17 
Baiios  de  Padilla,  186 
Barateros,  205 
BaratiUo,  el,  210 
Barbaries  Botanica,  42 
Barcelona,  408 

to  Gerona,  432 

to  Perpifian,  431 

to  Tarragona,  406 

to  Urgel,  418 

Barceloneta,  417 
Barcino,  409 
Barilla,  339 
Barragana,  189 
Barrancos,  32 
Barranco  Jaroso,  325 
—  de  S.  Juan,  328 
Barros  Saguntinos,  385 
Barrosa,  battle,  144 
Barsisa,  421 
Bastan,  al,  346 
Bastan,  el,  338 


INDEX  TO  PAET  I. 


443 


BATATA. 

Batata,  la,  288 
Baths  of  Alhama,  291 
Baths,  mineral,  40 
Battle  of  Xerez,  148 
Bay  of  Cadiz,  139 
Baza,  343 
Becerra,  G.,  337 
Beef  and  rum,  E.,  76 
Beggars,  Sp.,  120 
^—,  specific  agednst,  185 
Belalcazar,  220 
Belenna,  tears  of,  243 
Belli  nervos,  343 
Bellota,  200 
Bells,  Sp.,  175 
Belmas,  J.,  76 
Benameji,  257 
Bendejli,  la,  288 
Beni,  267 
Benicarlo,  388 
Benidorme,  354 
Benisand,  383 
Bensaken,  £.,  296 
Bentinck,  Lord  Wm.,  on 

rivers,  406 

,  defeat,  407 

Berbers,    Vandals,    225, 

226,  272 
Beresford  at  Albaera,  250 
Beija,  331 
Berkah,  306 
Bermudez,     J.    A.    C, 

books,  72 
Berwick,       Duke       of, 

cruelty,  357,  409 
Biar,  353 
Bible  in  Sp.,  120 
Bibliotheca  Hispana,  83 
Bienheureuses       Picbe- 

resses,  434 
Biographie    Universelle, 

76 
Bishopof  Urgel,  429 
Bisouos,  70 
Black  dress,  HI,  120 
— —  Prince,  ruby  of,  186 

strap,  388 

Blake,  E.,  Admiral,  289 
,  Sp.,  Genl.,  defeats, 

250,  289,  367,  386 
Blanche  of  Bourbon,  144 
Blayney,    Lord,   defeat, 

282 
Blind  mules  and  saints, 

427 


BRENNUS. 

Blood  marks  on  stones, 

310 
Blue  beard,  173 
Blue  blood,  224 
— r  jackets,  E.,  438 
Boabdil,  King,  293 

taken  prisoner,  257 

adieu  to  Granada, 

328 

• death  of,  329 

Boato,  128,  253 
Bocanegra,  A,  319 
Boccadoro,GioYanni,  421 
Bodegas,  156 
Bofarull,  P.  de,  416 
Boja  abajo,  26 
Bolero,  103 
Boletin  de  sombre,  91 
Bon  Feu,  200 
Bonaigua  to  Urgel,  430 
Bonanza,  156 
Bonaplata,  393 
Book    collectors,    hints 

to,  83 
Books  French,  in  Sp.,  85 
Books,  Sp.,  85 
Bookseller,  a  Sp.,  85 
Books  on  proverbs,  242 
Bore,  Sp.,  34 
Borgia  family,  358 

,  Jesuit  saint,  359 

Borrow  on  Gipsies,  67, 

201 
Borugo,  215 
Bory  de  St.  Vincent,  76 

,  on  apes,  277 

Bosque,  el,  263 
Botanical  tours,  42 
Boulou,  el,  437 
Boutelou,  E.,  158 
Bow  to  altar,  59 
Bowles,  J.,  Don  Quixote, 

241 
Boyd,  Genl.,  273 

,  execution  of,  286 

Bracing  climate  of  Sp., 

37 
Brackenbury,  Sir  John, 

142 
Brasero,  avoid,  121 
Breach  of  promise,  great 

Captain's,  358 
Bread,  Sp.,  160 
Breba,  317 
Brennus,  233 


CADIZ. 

Broffiotti,  387 
Broiled  fish,  210 
Bruce,  the  heart  of  the, 

264 
Bruch,  419 
Bucarelli,  299 
Buenos  Pares,  96 
Bula  de  Cnizada,  204 
Bull  fight,  books  on,  100 

,  details  of,  88 

,  philosophy  of,  98 

at  Ronda,  262 

Bull  of  Llerena,  219 
Buonaparte,     N. ;      his 

works    and    bulletins, 

75 
,  system   of  deceit 

and  terror,  77,  234 
,  hatred    of  truth, 

75,  77 

,  on  Trafalgar,  147 

-,  on  Sp.  armies  and 


Bailen,  234 
— -,  on  Ocaiia,  245 

,  perfidy,  409 

Burdet,  Robert,  400 

Burgo,  el,  266 

Burial  ground,  E.  in  Sp., 

286 
Burjasot,  387 
Busot,  355 

Bustamente,  Padre,  198 
Butin  infisime,  F.,  233 


C. 

Caballeros  en  plaza,  89 

Cabestros,  91 

Cabeza  Colorada,  217 

Cabezas  de  San  Joan, 
161 

Cabo  de  Creux,  439 

de  Gata,  834 

Cabra,  257 

Cabrera,  389 

Cabrera's  mother,  398 

Cachetero,  97 

Cachucha,  la,  106 

Cactus  opuntia,  284 

Cadiar,  330 

Cadiz — aspect.  Inns,  gui- 
tars, books  to  consult, 
131 ;  antiquity,  profli- 
gacy,   sieges ;     Lc 


444 


INDEX  TO  FABT  I. 


CADIZ. 

Essex,  WimbletoD,  Or- 

mond,  Victor,  133 ; 
ingratitude,  diseases, 
art,  cathedrals,  ram- 
parts, 134;  Alameda, 
tides,  ladies,  136 ;  cos- 
tume, feet,  137 ;  fishes, 
Cortes,  138 ;  Bay,  139. 

Cadix  to  Gibraltar,  142 

—  to  Seville  by  land, 
155 

-»—  to  Seville  by  steam, 
153 

^—    to    Southampton, 
130 

Caimo,  Padre,  73 

Cal  de  Moron,  260 

Calabria,  duke  of,  386 

Caldas  las,  40 

Cales ;   Gaddir,    Gades, 
132 

Calixtus  III.,  358 

Calle  de  los  Abades,  189 

Callosa,  351 

Callos  y  menudos,  205 

Calpe,  271 

Calyo,  Baltazar,  367 

Cambrils,  390 

Caminos  reales,  20 

Campana,  Pedro,  182 

Campbell,  Sir  Colin,  150, 
269,  280 

Campo  de  Gibraltar,  268 

de  Montiel,  243 

Camprodon,  430 

Campus  juncarius,  437 

Canas  las,  105 

Cancel,  173 

Candil,  el,  215 

Canigii,  the,  430,  438 

Cannon,  early,  343 

Cauo,  Alonso,  318 

,  pictures  by,  318, 

319 

,  wife  murder,  384 

,  carving,  347 

Canos  de  Carmona,  204 

Cantabrian  zone,  28 

Cantillana,  221 

Capa,  110,  113 

Capataz,  157 

Cape  S.  Vincent,  130 

Capeo  el,  90 
"•-"pilla  Real,  59 

many,  Antonio,  396 


CASTELLAB. 

Carajo,  el,  66 
Caravaca,  345 

cross  of,  345 

Cardenas,  venta  de,  238 
Gardener,  river,  424 
Carderera,  Don  V.,  49, 

57 
Cardona,  426 
Caridad,  la,  190 
Carlos  San,  de  la  Babi- 

ta,  389 
Carlos  Tercero,  order  of, 

195 
Carlota,  223 
Qirmenes,  296 
Carmona,  222 
Carob  tree,  362 
Carolina,  236 
Carpio,  232 
Carpentry,  229 
Carraca,  la,  140 
Carratraca,  288 
Carreteria,  la,  210 
Cartama,  266,  283 
Carteia,  153 
Carter,  F.,  book,  153 
Carthagena,  349 

to  Adra,  333 

to  Alicante,  351 

Carthagena    to    Murcia, 

349 
Carthaginians  in  Spain, 

349 
Cartoajal,  Conde,  defeat 

of,  247 
Cartuja  dePortaceli,  384 

of  Grenada,  324 

ofSeviUe,  211 

ofXerez,  158 

Carvings  by  Cano,  319 
Casarabonela,  266 
Casa  del  Carbon,  322 

del  Gallo,  323 

de  Pilatos,  172, 187 

Pupilos,  25 

Sanchez,  313 

Cascales,  F.,  339 
Cassagne,  F.  Gen.,  sack, 

259 
Castalla,  356 
Castanets,  104 
Castafkos,    character   of, 

234 

at  Bailen,  233 

Castellar,  279 


CHAP  BOOKS. 

Casiellon  de   la  Plana, 

387 
Castilian  language,   67, 
239 

Charles  V.  on,  65 

master,  67 

Catacomb  system,  208 
Catalan  bay,  278 
Catalines  in  cotton,  393 
Catalonia,  391 
Catalonia,  books  on,  395 
Catalan  character,  392 
—  costume,  394 
hatred   of  France, 

295 

rebellions,  395 

superstitions,  394 

Cathedral  of  Seville,  178 
Catholic  kings,  tomba  o^ 

320 
Cava,  La,  280,  285 
Caveda,  Jose,  73 
Caza  mayor  y  menor,  47 
Cazalla,  221 
Cazorla,  336 
Cazuela,  la,  101 
Ceca,  la,  228 
Ceceo,  el,  128 
Cecilio,  San,  323 
Celadores,  185 
Cell  ofS.  Francis,  415 
Celtiberian,  the,  394 
Central  table-land,  28 
Cepa  de  Cordova,  224 
Cepero,  Dean,  188,  192 
Cerda,  la,  358 
Ceremonial,  forms  of,  12S 
Ceremonious  marder,  96 
Cerrageria,  la,  1 92 
Cerros  de  Ubeda,  336 
Cervantes,  remarks  on, 

238 
,  best   edidons    of, 

241 
Cffisar  at  Munda,  282 

at  Cadiz,  132 

Borgia,  358,  363 

Cespedes,  Pablo  de,  183, 

225 
Ceuta,  280 

Chabran,  cruelty,  407 
Challenges,Sp.  sentinels', 

123 
Chao,  E.,  72 
Chap  books,  84 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


445 


CHARGE. 

Charge  of  cavalry,  one, 

235,  248,  437 
Charles  X.,  273 
Charles  V.  on  Boabdil, 

328 
—  at  Cordova,  230 

,  palace  of,  298,  303 

Chateaubriand,  inaccura- 
cies, 75,  179,  294,  322 
Chateau  en  Espagne,  32, 

303 
Chelva,  384 
Cherta,  la,  396 
Chestalgar,  384 
Chiclana,  snakes,  143 
Chirivel,  344 
Chivata,  la,  94 
ChotM,  22» 
Christopher,  St.,  181 

,  his  tooth,  370 

Christobal,  S.,the  moun- 
tain, 263 
Chulilla,  384 
Chulos,  95 
Church-seeing,  hints  on, 

58 
Churriguerismo,  el,  56 
Cid  at  Valencia,  366 
Cieza,  348 
Cigarito,  109 
Cigars,  109,  206 
Cigarreras,  206 
Cilia,  382 
Cimborio,  58 
Cinta  la,  of  Tortosa,  398 
Cirio  Pasqual,  180 
Cisterns,  M.,  302 
Cistus  of  Venus,  398 
Citadel  of  Barcelona,  417 
Clay  figures,  Sp.,  287 
Claustro  chico,  190 
Clemente,  S.  Rojas,  158 
Cleous  in  calico,  393 
Clergy  of  Seville,  61, 189 
Climate  of  Spain,  37 

of  Malaga,  283 

ofSeville,  167, 170 

,  trees  a  test  of,  235 

Cloak,  110 
Coal  mines,  221 
Cob  walls,  162 
Coche  de  CoUeras,  23 
Cockfighting,  380 
Cochrane,  Lord,  435, 438 
Cod-fish,  salted,  209 


OOBDEBOS. 

Cod-liver  oil,  121 
Codrington,  Adml.,  400 
Cofradias,  49-52,  364 
Coger  la  verbena,  200 
Colbato,  419 
Colgaduras,  59 
Colejgio,  el,  91 
CoUingwood,  Lord,  147 
Coll  de  Balaguer,  390 
Colon,  tomb  of,  179 
Columbina,  la,  176 
Columbus  on  bridge  of 

Pinos,  257 

at  Palos,  163 

Combermere,  Lord,  219 
Comer  hierro,  173 
Commis  yoyageurs,  394 
Compania,  jesnit,  425 
Comparsas  y  Rocas,  364 
Conca  de  Berberd,  406 
Concentaina,  357 
Concepciones     by    Mu- 

rillo,  196 
Concubines  of  clergy,  189 
Condado,  El,  162 
Conde  de  Espafia,  410 

,  death,  428 

Conde,  J.  A.,  72 
Conde  de  Jtforella,  389 
Condeza  de  Teba,  264 
Conduct,  hints  on,  118 
Conejo,  the  rabbit,  47 
Conil,  145 
Constantina,  221 
Consulado  del  Mar,  409 
Contaduria    of   Seville, 

177 
Contemporary     sove- 
reigns, 62 
Contrabandista,  el,  252 
Convention    of   Cintra, 

233 
Conveyancing,  M.,  316, 

322 
Conversational    phrases, 

Sp.,  68 
Copper       mines,       Rio 

Tmto,  217 
Cordova,  224 

to  Granada,  256 

Cordova,    Gonzalo    de, 

225,  358 

at  Loja,  256 

Cordovese  horses,  232 
Corderos  de  Pascua,  205 


CUEVA  SANTA. 

Cordilleras,  las,  28,  30 
Cordwain,  230 
Coria,  155 
Cork  wood,  the,  279 
Com  and  dry  measures, 

71 
Cornejo,  P.  D.,  230 
Comudo  paciente,  213 
Corpus,  at  Valencia,  364 
Corral  del  Conde,  188 
Correa,  Don  P.  P.,  Mi- 
racle, 218 
Cortadura,  la,  142 
Cortes  of  Cadiz,  133, 138 
Cortijo  del  Puche,  327 
Cosas  de  Espaiia,  70 
Coso,  409 
Costume,  110 
Coto  del  Rey,  165 
Cotos,  shooting,  157 
Council  of  lUiberis,  325 
Country  life  in  Sp.,  34 
Court  of  Lions,  310 
Courtesy,  forms  of  Sp., 

122 
Covarrubias,  Don  S.,  67 
Creed,    cautions    as   to 

Sp.,  120,  207 
Creux,  Jaime,  434 
Crevillente,  352 
Cristiano  Viejo,  118 
Cristo  de  Beyrut,  379 
Crochart,  M.,  387 
Cross  engraved  with  the 

nails,  229 
Cross  of  Caravaca,  345 
Crosses  of  Murder,  263 
Crows,  Holy,  199 
Crucifying     boys       by 

Jews,  244 
Crucifix     of    Valencia, 

374 
Cruz  del  Campo,  359 
Cruzada,  bull  of,  204 
Cuarto  real,  315 
Cuarto  (coin),  16 
Cuatro  Reinos,  los,  127 
Cuatro  tiros,  275 
Cucufat,  S.,  415 
Cuernos,  96 
Cuesta ;     arriba,   abajo, 

30 
Cuesta  de  las  lagrimas, 

328 
Cueva  Santa,  384 


446 


ISDEX  TO  PART  I. 


CUEVA. 

Caeya  del  Gato,  262 

de  Sn.  Ignacio,424 

de  Mengal,  266 

de  Montesinos,  243 

del  Becerro,  264 

Cufic,  305 

Cittdad  Real,  247 

Collar  de  Baza,  344 

Collera,  382 

Cuna  La,  134,  201 

Coneas,  130 

Curate's  mule,  427 

Custodia,  60 

,  Seville,  182 

Custom- houses  and  offi- 
cers, 15,  253,  286 

Cypresses  of  Generalife, 
314 


D. 

Dallas,  333 

Dances  of  Gipsies,  104 

Darro,  river,  316 

Deal,  how  to  deal  with 
Sp.,  278 

Decoration,  305 

Decree  of  Andujar,  233 

Defeat,  Sp.    at    Ciudad 
Real,  247 

Dehesas  y   despoblados, 
129,  254 

Delicias,  las,  208 

Denia,  382 

Depping,  book,  73 

Departmentalization,  32 

Derechos  de  puerta,  15 

Descabellar,  el,  98 

Desengaiio,  el,  422 

Desjarretar,  el,  97 

Despejo,  el,  92 

Despatches,  Wellington's, 
81 

Despefia-perros,  237 

Dessolles,  Genl.,  237 

Deten  tu  el  dia,  218 

Devil,  riding  the,  259 

dancing  on  a  thea- 
tre, 231 

Devil's  Bridge,  418 

Devisa,  la,  95 

Dia  de  su  Santo,  122 

"'•^al,  408 

din,  Dr.,  295 


1 


DUBO. 


Dictionary,  Sp.,  67 

de  bellas  artes,  72 

Dientes,  las,  de  la  Vieja, 

269,  343 
Diezma,  342 
Dictions,  Sp.,  38 
Dijous  gras,  410 
Diligences,  23 
Dilletante  tours,  48 
Dilletante  works,  best,  57 
Directions  of  letters,  124 
Disdplina  arcani,  424 
Disco  of  Theodosius,  249 
Distances,  71 
Divo  Augusto,  400 
Doblon,  16 
Documents,  F.  and  Sp., 

76,79 
Dolce  far  niente  life,  38, 

171 
Dolores,  300 
Domecq  wine,  158 
Domini  Canes,  379 
Don,  the  title,  101 
Don,  Genl.,  269 
Don  Juan,  201 
Dormer,  Jane,  248 
Domajo,  el,  327 
Douglas,  the  good  Lord 

James,  264 
Downie,  Sir  John,  1 70 
Dragon  tree,  135 
Drake,  Adml.  £.,  351 
Dressing  graven  images, 

52 
Drought,  33,  338 
Druidical  cave,  266 
Dryness  of  Sp.  climate, 

29,  32 
Ducado,  17 

Duhesme,      F.      Genl., 
cruelty    and    perfidy, 
419,423,433,435,437 
Duke,  the,  see  Welling- 
ton 
Dulces,  sweetmeats,  355 
Dulcinea  del  Toboso,  244 
Dumanoir,  Adl.  F.,  mis- 
conduct, 146 
Dupont,  F.  Genl.,  defeat, 
plate    plunder,     229, 
231,  233 
Dupona,  una,  235 
Dnque  de  Bailen,  234 
Duro,  dollar,  16 


LA  ESPADA. 


E. 


Eagle  catchers,  87tb,  150 

Early  cannon,  343 

Echandole  en  cueros,  26 

Echaverri,  P.,  defeat  o^ 
232 

Ecija,  223 

Ecclesiological  tour,  58 

Ebro,  the  river,  389 

Eden,  Sir  Wm.,  3 

Editions  of  Cervantes, 
240 

Education,  Jesuit,  425 

Egllona,  168 

Egregious  doctor,  168 

Elche,  352    « 

the  Palms,  352 

— -  to  Alicante,  354 

to  Madrid,  352 

to  Xativa,  353 

Elda,353 

Elephantiasis,  202 

Eleven  thousand  vir- 
gins, 337 

£lio,  Spanish  general, 
F.  X.,  367 

restored      when 

dead,  378 

Eliott,  E.,  General,  273 

Elorza,  Col,  221 

Elvira,  Puerta  de,  323 

Embolados,  90 

Embozo,  el,  115 

Emigdio,  San,  352 

Eknir  al  Mumenin,  225 

Emplazado,  el,  259 

Emporise,  438 

Emporio  de  el  Orbe,  132 

Encierro,  el,  91 

English  fire-arms,  15 

Engotterte,  380 

Engravings,  Sp.  55 

Enredos  y  embustes,  278 

Epistolar  forms,  124 

Epistola,  lado  de,  59 

Era,  the.  64 

Eras,  245 

Eras  de  Cristo,  324 

Ercilla,  Alonso  de,  246 

Escaldos,  429 

Escopeteros,  27 

Escosura,  P.,  57 

Espada,  la,  96 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


447 


ESPADAN. 

Espadan,  387 

Espa&ol,  Juan,  238 

Ilustrado,  46 

Espaila  artistica,  57 

Sagrada,  74 

Espa&as,  las,  12 

Espa&olismo,  118,  193, 
232,  235,.  289,  417 

Espardinos,  365 

Espartero,  Baldomero, 
247 

Esparto,  339 

Esparraguera,  419 

Espinel,  Vicente  de,  262 

Espinosa,  I.  G.,  375 

Esq.,  avoid  it  in  directing 
E.  letters  to  Spain,  22 

Essex,  Lord,  132 

Estaciones,  las,  187 

Estepona,  281 

Esto&r,  el,  52 

Estre&a,  122 

Estrevillo,  107 

Etymology,  erroneous, 
1C8 

Eulalia,  S.,  of  Barce- 
lona, 413 

Europa  point,  271 

Evaporation  &  drought, 
31,  149 

Evangelio,  lado  de,  59 

Evil  eye,  302 

Excellencia,  124 

Exchange,  par,  17 

Excursions  near  Gra- 
nada, 325 

Exercitatorium,  424 

Expulsion  of  Jesuits, 
425 

«—  of  Moriscos,  293 

Eye  lotion,  121 


F. 

Fabian  Tvarfare,  235 
Fabrica  de  tabacos,  206 
Fa^on  de  parler,  77 
Facistoles,  5S 
Factor,    Beato  Nicolas, 

376 
FalcoTinunculoides,  175 
Fan,  67, 112 
Fanega,  71 
Fandango,  103 


FORMS. 

Fanfaron,  128 

Paroles,  195 

Fe,  la,  120 

Felipe,  San,  357 

Feliu,  San,  434 

Female  goddess,  popu- 
lar, 53 

Female  preacher,  404 

Ferdinand  VII.,  return 
to  S.,  436 

Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 
tombs  of,  320 

Ferias,  61 

Feria  de  Ronda,  262 

—  de  Santi  Ponce,  213 

de  Sevilla,  200 

Fernando,  San,  king,  1 69 
tomb,  183 

—  town,  142 
Ferrer,  Sn.  Vicente  de, 

378 
Ferro  Carril,  the  rail,  19 
Festina  lente,  139,  144, 

156 
Fetish  worship,  258 
Fever  of  Gibraltar,  274 
Fiamettaof  Ariosto,  357 
Fiestas  de  precepto,  197 

de  Calle,  364 

de  Sevilla,  167 

Fiesta  real,  89 

—  de  Toros,  89 
Fig  of  Spain,  67 
Pigueras,  436 

—  to  Rosas,  438 
Figueroas,  the,  248 
Filabres,  Sierra  de,  335 
Fine  weather,  effect  of, 

143 
Fire-arms,  English,  48 
Fishing  tour,  47 
Flax,  344 

Flite  of  Sn.  Narciso,  434 
Florentina,  Saint,  347 
Florez,  H.,  his  works,  74 
Flos  Sanctorum,  75 
Focaria,  189 
Fonda,  24 
Pons  divinus,  265 

Mellaria,  219 

Foot,  female,  Sp.,  137 
Ford,  Richard,  works  on 

Sp.,  88 
Porms  of  Sp.  courtesy, 

122 


OANDIA. 

Portress,  Sp.,  a  fiiiblesse,- 

437 
Forwarding  baggage  par- 
cels, 19 
Foy,    P.,     Genl.,      his 

works,  75 
Fraga  to  Amposta,  396 
Frail    ladies    converted^ 

434 
Francis  I.  prisoner,  383 
Francis,    Dr.,  work  ob 

climate  of  Sp.,  37 
Prankenau    on    Sp.  he* 

raldry,  64 
Praser,  river,  430 
Preire,  Sp.  Genl.  defeats,. 

245,257,343,344,347 
French  spy  at    SeYille^ 

191 
Frenchmen,  fine  qualities 

of,  80 
Martial  merits,  80, 

236 
Prontales,  202 
Fructuoso,  San,  404 
Puengirola,  282 
Puggers,  the,  219,  220 
Fuente  de  los  Avellanos,. 

322 

de  la  Higuera,  354 

— —  de  Ovejuna,  219 
Fuensanta,     Virgin    of^ 

346 
Fundon,  104 

de  Gitanos,  201 

en  Triana,  166 

Pundicion,la,  of  Seyille^ 

204 

G. 

Gabacho,  285 
Gaditanian  dancers,  104 
Guditanse  improbse,  132 
Gaddir,  132 
Gador,  Sierra  de,  331 
Gafo,  202 
Galera,  23 

Gallinetas,woodcocks,  47 
Gallumbo,  90 
Gamba,  la,  181 
Gambote,  394 
Game  in  Spain,  47 
Ganando  horas,  22 
Gandia,  382 


448 


INDEX  TO  PAKT  I. 


OANDUL. 

Oandnl,  254 

Garay,  Blasco  de,  417 

Garrocha,  90 

Garten,       Manchegan, 
242 

Gaacin,  267 

Gayi,  riyer,  406 

Gayates,  388 

Gayangos,    P.    de,     72, 
226,  231,  294 

Gaaqmcho,  216,  362 

Gebal  Tarik,  272 

Gelves,  214 

Generalife,  316 

General  of  Jesuits,  425 

Gens  togata,  400 

Geography  of  Sp.,  27 

-^—  boolu  on,  Sp.,  73 

Geological    constraction 
ofSp.,  28 

Geology,  abstract  of  Sp., 
42 

of  Catalonia,  392 

Germania,  67 

Grerigonza,  67 

Gerona,  435 

to  Barcelona,  432 

— ^  to  Perpinftn,  436 

■ to  Sn.  Laurent,  435 

to  Urgel,  430 

Geryon,  hu   bulls,    89, 
142 

Gesticulation,  S.,  67 

Gibraleon,  165 

Gibraltar,  269 

value  of,  273 

to  Cadiz,  142,  143 

to  Malaga,  280 

to  Ronda,  267 

Gipsey  dances,  104 

Giralda,  la,  173 

Girandillo,  el,  174 

Giron,  Pedro,  254 

Gitanos,  67 

Gloire,  La,  75 

Goat  soup,  Fr.,  233 

Gog  and  Magog,  164 

Gold  washers,  316 

Golden  Fleece,  installa- 
tion, 413 

Goles,  201 

Gonffora,  Luis  de,  225 

Good  thief,  the,  422 

"•^r,  Venta  de,  343 
"don,  wine,  140,  158 


OBANADA. 

Gorman,  wine,  154 

Gorro,  394 

Gothalunia,  391 

Gough,  Lord,  150 

Goya,  182 

Gracia,  Andaluza,  128 

Gradas,  las,  58,  177 

Graena,  343 

Graham,  Genl.,  victory 
at  Barrosa,  144 

Granada,  kingdom  0^291 

Granada, — Inns,  guides 
Vega,  295 ;  society, 
condition,  Alhambra, 
history  of  rise,  297 ; 
motto,  Charles  V.,  in 
neglect  and  decay, 
299;  partial  restora- 
tion, 300 ;  Torres  Ber- 
mejas,  fountains,  gate, 
301 ;  emblems,  cis- 
terns, Alcazaba,  Vega, 
302;  Torre  de  la  Vela„ 
adarves.  Palace  of 
Charles  V.,  303;  ex- 
terior, architecture, 
304 ;  decoration,  in- 
scriptions, azulejos, 
305 ;  stalactical  pen- 
dentives,  courts,  306 ; 
archives,  Mezquita, 
307 ;  halls,  308 ;  baths. 
Court  of  Lions,  309; 
of  the  Abencerrages, 
painted  ceilings,  Sala 
de  Justicia,  311 ;  re^ 
flections  on,  312;  hill 
of,  Casa  Sanchez,  Mez- 
quita towers,  313 ; 
towers,  ravages  of  Se- 
iMistiani,  Generalife, 
cypresses,  314 ;  Cam- 
po  Santo,  Mazmorras, 
Los  Martires,  Museo, 
Cuarto  real,  315 ; 
River  Darro,  Zacatin, 
Xenil,  316 ;  gates, 
plaza,  figs,  317;  ca- 
thedral, pictures,  car- 
vings by  Cano,  319 ; 
Capilla  de  los  reyes, 
tombs,  Isabella,  320 ; 
relics,  Pulgar,  H.  de, 
321 ;  Alcaiseria,  Casa 
del  Carbon,  chancery, 


GUADALETE. 

Monte  Sacro,  pious 
frauds,  322 ;  San  Ce- 
cilio,  San  Nicolas,  Al- 
baicin,  Triunfo,  323; 
Cartuja,  Juan  de  Dies, 
San  Jeronimo,  Great 
Captain,  324 ;  San  An- 
gustias,  excursionsnear 
Granada,  Soto  de  Roma, 
325;  Santa  F^,  326; 
ascent  of  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, 327 ;  sunmiit, 
heights  of  mountains, 
Huecar,  ultimo  sns* 
piro  del  Moro,  328; 
Zubia,  329. 
Granada,  Books  on,  294 

effects  of  conquest 

0^294 

arms  of^  63 

to  Adra,  329 

•^—  to  Almeria,  329 

to  Andujar,  258 

to  Cordova,  256 

to  Motril,  332 

■ to  Murcia,  342 

to  Ronda,  264 

to  Seville,  254 

to  Seville  by  Jara, 

258 
Granatula,  247 
GranCapitan,el.  SeeGon' 
zalo  de  Cordova,  22e5, 
256 
Grandiloquence,  Sp.,  65 
Granja,  ik,  32 
Grao,  el,  381 
Gratificacioncita,  25 
Gravina,  Adm.,  138 

dying  speech,  146 

Grazalema,  263 
Great  Diana  of  Catalo- 
nia, 420 
Great  Captain,  the.     Se$ 
G.de  Cordova,  225, 256 

tomb  of,  324 

Great  men,   paucity  in 

Sp.  of;  139 
Greatness  of  Sp.  short* 

lived,  87 
Greco  Romano  style,  56 
Green  eyes,  28 1 
Guadairo,  venta  del,  961 
Guadalcanal  mineSy  Sit 
Guadalete,  el,  158 


INDEX  TO  PAKT  I. 


449 


GUADALQUIVIR. 

Guadalquivir  river,  154 
Guadiana,  ojos  de,  243 
Goadix,  342 
Guardias  civiles,  27 
'Guarin,  Juan,  421 
Guerillas,  78 
Guerillero,  the,  252 
Guerra  al  Cuchillo,  343 
Guerras  de  Granada,  294 
Guesclin,  du,  243 
Guides,  Sp.,  bad,  5 
Guide  du  Voy  ageur,F.,  84 
Guitars,  Sp.,  106,  131 
Guste  V.  comer,  123 
Guzman  el  Bueno,  He- 
roism, 149 
tomb,  213 


H. 

Habas  verdes,  106 
Hablar  Castellano,  66 
Hacha,  la,  397 
Hallarse  en  cinta,  398 
Halley,  Dr.,  149 
Hams,  Sp.,  351 
Hands,  female  Sp.,  403 
Hannibalis  turres,  162 
Hardales,  288 
Hay,  Mr.,  279 
Haza&as,  £1  de  las,  321 
Head,  Sir  E.  W.,  72 
Health  of  a  riding  tour, 

39 
Health  officers,  Sp.,  131 
Hecho  de  bronze,  39 
Hedionda,  281 
Hegira,  the  Moorish,  64 
Hellin,  348 
Heraldry,  Sp.  books  on, 

64 
Hercules,  Temple  of,  141 
Heredia,  M.  A.  de,  287 
Hermandad,    la    Santa, 

247 
Hermitages  of  Cordova, 

231 
Hermits    of   Monserrat, 

422 
Heroic  title  of  Sp.  cities, 

64 
Heroica,  134,  172 
Herradura,  la,  90 
Herrera  el  Mozo,  176 


INFANTE. 

Herrera  el  viejo,  1 92, 204 
Hijos  de  Ganancia,  189 
Higuera,  la  real,  218 
Hill  forts  of  Sp.,  252 
Himilce,  337 
Hints  to  artists,  45 

Invalids,  37 

Hispal,  168 
Hogazas,  159 
Holy  Fennel,  358 
Honnenr,  F.,  77 
Hospitalet,  390 
Hospitals  fired  on,  423 
Host,  the,  120 
Hostalrich,  432 
Houris,  312 
Houses,   Sp.,    suited  to 

climate,  412 
Howlings    of  Tarshish, 

107 
Huecar,  328 
Huelva,  163 
Huerta  de  Murcia,  346 

de  Valencia,  361 

Humilladero,  161 
Hygienic    hints  on  Sp. 

climate,  37 


I. 

Ibems,  389 

Iberian  or  Eastern  zone, 

29 
Ibi,  356 
Ibn  Zohr,  224 
Ibn  Abdallah,  226 
Ibnu-1-ahmar,  226,  258, 

292 
Iconoclasm,  48 
Ignacio  Loyola,  424 

bust  of,  197 

,  San,  cave,  424 

Uliberis,  292,  325. 
Illo,  Pepe,  100 
Images,  holy,  dressed  and 

painted,  51 
Imagenes  Sagradas,  52 
Immaculate  Conception, 

194 
Impertinente  curioso,  87 
Implicit  obedience,  358 
Index  expurgatorius,  83 
Inedia  et  la^r,  171 
Infante  of  Antequera,  265 


JUSTINA. 

In&ntes  de  la  Cerda,  358 
Inglis,  Mr.,  1 76 
Ingratitude,  Sp.,  133 
Inquisition,  Sp.,  206 

of  Seville,  200 

Introduction,  letters  of, 

121 
Invalids,  hints  to,  37 
Iriarte,  161 
Irrigation,  M.,  361 
Isabella  la  Catolica,  321 

at  Baza,  343 

Isabelinos,  coin,  16 

Isidoro,  198 

Isidro,  San,  appears  as  a 

shepherd,  236 
Isla,  La,  141 
Isla  de  Leon,  141 
Italica,  212 


J. 

Jabea,  382 
Jaen,  258 

to  Almeria,  335 

Jaime  de  Crevillente,  352 
Jaime    the    Conqueror, 

406 
Jameson,  Mrs.,  421,  434 
Jamones  de  Trevelez,330 
Janitore,  138 
Jarama,  bulls,  90 
Jarro  con  a9ucena8,  196 
Jerga,  67 

Jervis,  Adml.,  131 
Jesuits,  the,  424 

costume,  425 

—  how  painted  in  Sp., 

425 
Jews  of  Gibraltar,  273 
Joanes,  V.,  375 
John  of  Austria,  Don,  41 5 
Jose  Maria,  255 
Joyas,  225 
Juan  de  Alfarache,  San, 

214 
Juan  de  Dios,  San,  324 
Julian,  Count,  280 
Junta,  Sp.,  139 
Junquera,  la,  437 
Justicia,  Sp.,  410 
Justina  y  Kufina,  175 


450 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


KASNATTAD. 
K. 

Karn^ttah,  292 
Kennes  cochenilla,  284 
Key  to  decypher  Sp.,  7 
Key,  symbol  of,  302 
Kiblah,  229 

Kingdom  of  Granada,  29 1 
Kings  of  Sp.,  list,  61 
Knives,  Sp.,  343 
Konscosou,  279 


L. 

Labaro,  175 
Laborde,  A.,  book,  76 
Ladies  of  Cadiz,  136 
Lado  de  la  Epistola,  59 

del  Evangelio,  59 

Ladrones  en  grande,  26 
Lagarto,  el,  177 
Lagartos,  213 
Lagunas  de  Ruidera,  243 
LaKes,  absence  of  Sp.,  31 
Language,  character  of 

Sp.,  64 
Lanjaron,  330 
Laynez,  Diego,  424 
Leather,   Sp.,  for  book- 
binding, 366 
Lebrija,  161 
Leche  y  sangre,  193 
Lee,  Mr.,  books  and  pass- 
ports, 67 
Legenda  Aurea,  75 
Leges  Rhodise,  409 
Leguas,  leagues,  20 
Lejias,  362,  382 
Leonora  de  Guzman,  144 
Lepe,  164 
Lepers,  202 
Lethe,  159 

Letters,  how  to  be  di- 
rected,   how     to     be 
asked  for,  22 
Letters  and  post-office,  21 
Letters  of  introduction, 

121 
Library  of  Columbus,  176 
Librito  de  fumar,  357 
Libro  del  Consulado,  396 
Libros     de      Entreteni- 
miento,  84 
'  ^er  Bellair,  sack  of,  242 


MADOZ. 

Lightning      conductors, 

Sp.,  352 
Lilies  of  the  Virgin,  265 
Linares,  337 
Linderaia,  Patio  de,  312 
Lines,  the,  of  Gibraltar, 

268 
Liuia,  159 
Linois,  Adml.,  152 
Liquid  measures,  71 
Liria,  383 

Lisbon,  earthquake,  ef- 
fects of,  145 
Llauder,  Genl.,  410 
Llerena,  218 
Llivia,  429 
Llobregat,  the,  408 
Lodgings     to    let,    the 

sign,  25 
Loja,  siege  of,  255 
Ix>mas  de  Ubeda,  336 
Longanizas,  431 
Lonja,  58 

of  Seville,  177 

Lorca,  344 

Lorqui,  348 

Loss  of  guns,  Murray, 

Sir  John,  400 
Lover's  leap  and  rock,  266 
Lowe,  Sir  Hudson,  435 
Loyola,  portrait  of,  197 

's  cave,  424 

Lucar,  San,  153 

to  Portugal,  165 

Lucena,  257 

Lucina    sine   concubitu, 

196 
Luggage,  119 
Luna,  the  Pope,  388 
Lusitanian    or    Western 

zone,  29 


M. 

Macael,  335 
Macarena,  202 
Macdonald,        Marshal, 

cruelties,  423,  426, 437 
Machuca,  Pedro,  203, 303 

,  el,  176 

Machamudo,  sherry,  158 

Madexa,  169 

Madoz,      Pasc.      Diet**. 

Geo%  73 


MARIOLA. 

Madre  vino,  158 

Madrid  to  Elche,  352 

to  Murcia,  348 

to  Seville,  221 

Madridejos,  244 

Maestranza,  91 

Maestrasgo,  389 

Magioges,  164 

Magnanima  mensogna,  79 

Mahon,  Lord,  81 

Mahy,  Sp.  Genl.,  defeat, 
367 

Mail  coaches,  Sp.,  22 

Mairena,  fair  of,  222 

Maison,   Mons.,    pla^a- 
risms,  87,  295 

Mijo,  128 

at  a  fwr,  222 

Xerezano,  156 

Majolica,  173,  380 

Maksurah,  229 

Mai  de  ojo,  365 

Malaga,  283 

to  Adra,  332 

to  Gibraltar,  280 

to  Granada,  288 

to  Ronda,  266 

Maldonado,  J.  M.,  book, 
78 

Mallara,    Joan    de.    on 
Proverbs,  242 

Ma&ana,  127 

Maiiara,  190 

Mancha,  la,  237 

Manchego,  el,  237 

Manchester  the,  of  Ca- 
talonia, 408 

Manises,  383 

,  clay  of,  380 

Mannert,  K.,  73 

Mano  a  la  teta,  193 

Manos  blancas,  403 

Manceuvres,    naval,    F., 
146 

Mantillas,  110,  137 

Manresa,  423 

Manzanares,  town  of,  243 

Manzanilla  wine,  1 54 

Maqninas  de  sangre,  204 

Maravedi,  15 

Marbella,  281 

March,  £.,  376 

Marchena,  J.  P.  de,  163 

Mariana,  Historia  de,  72 

Mariola,  Sierra  de,  357 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


451 


MARISMA. 

Marisma,  154,  155 
Marismillas,  165 
Mark,  Mr.,  '284 
Marquito,  miracle,  219 
Martires,    los,    conyent 

of,  315 
Martorell,  419 
Marshals,  F.,  rivalry,  145 
Masdeu,  J.  F.,  book,  73 
Master,  Sp.  language,  67 
Matador,  92 
Matagorda,  140 
Mataro,  433 
Mateo  Ximenez,  300 
Matrimonio,  Sanchez  de, 

225 
Maurice,  Mathieu,  401 
Mazmorras,  315,  387 
Meats,  Sp.,  200 
Medallas  de  Espa^  74 
Media  Espada,  97 

■  Luna,  97 
-^—  Valenciana,  365 
Medias  caladas,  137 
Medina  Sidonia,  143 
Mediterranean,  151 
Melach,  284 
Melcarth,  153 
Mena,  Juan  de,  236 
Mendez,  F.,  book,  83 
Mendoza,  Card.,  320 
Meneo,  137 

Mengal,  Cueva  de,  266 
Mengibar,  258 
Mentirasydisperates,  125 
Mequinenza,  399 
Merchant's  mark,  409 
Mesa  del  Rey,  161 
Mezquita  of  Alhambra, 

307 

de  Cordova,  227 

Micalet,  el,  368 
Michalot  de  Prades,  363 
Midwifery,  Sp.,  398,  426 
Miel  de  C;ana,  289 
Migas,  216 
Miguelites,  27 
Mih-rab,  229 
Military ,£.,  agents  to  Sp., 

356 
—matters,  books  on,  76 
—  romancing,  F.,  76, 

78 
Military  tour,  46 
Mina,  cruelty,  398 


MONTLUIS. 

Mina  de  Ronda,  262 
Miilano,  S.,  book,  73 
Mines,  a!hcient,  340,  341 
Mineral  baths,  40 
Mines  of  Murcia,  339 
Mining  mania,  339 
Ministerial  departments, 

Sp.,  33 
Minutoli,  his  book,  33 
Miracles  de  Sn.  Vicente, 

879 
Misa  de  Madrugada,  117 
Miserere  at  Valencia,  373 
Misgovernment,  Sp.,  28, 

74 
Mitjana,  R.,  266 
Mocado,  394 
Mogigangas,  164 
Moguer,  163 
Mohamedui  dynasties  in 

Sp.,  72 
Molina,  Argote  de,  169 
Molins  del  Rev,  407 
Moncey,  Marshal,  367 
Money,  first  want  of  Sp., 

15 
Monda,  the  battle,  282 
Mondejar,  on  the  Era,  64 
Monforte,  353 
MonpS,  el,  382 
Moujuich,  417 
Monkeys    of  Gibraltar, 

277 
Mono,  el,  365 
Monos,  los,  277 
Monopodio,  210 
Monovar,  353 
Monserrat,  419,  422 
Montana,  30 
Monta&es,  el,  157 

,  Virgin  by,  179 

Montano,  Arias,  197,  218 
Montblanch,  406 
Montbrun,  F.  Genl.,  ra- 
vages, 349,  353,  354 
Monte  Agudo,  346 

Sacro,  322 

Montejaque,  262 
Montera,  237 
Montes,  F.,  100 
Montesa,  354 
Montesinos,  Manuel,  377 
Montiel,  battle  of,  243 
Montilla,  wine,  224 
Montluis  to  Urge],  428 


MUSCATELS. 

Monumento,  el,  60 

ofSeviUe,  179 

Moorish  architecture,  56 
Mora  de  Ebro,  399 
Morales,    Ambrosio    de,. 

225 
el  divino,  pictures,. 

218 
Morbid  self-love,  Sp.,  87 
Morel,  B.,  174 
Morella,  389 
Moreno,  Sp.  Genl.,  286 
Moreria,  La,  188 
Moriscos,  los,  293 

,  expulsion  of,  293 

Moron,  260 
Morris  dances,  105 
Moscas  de  San  Narciso, 

434 
Mosquitos,  remedy,  121 
Motril  to  Granada,  332 
Mountain  wines,  287 
Mountainous  character  of 

Sp.,  28 
Moya  on  Sp.  heraldry,  64 
Mozo  y  Muchacha,  25 
Muelas,  resurrection  of 

Sp.,  178 
Mulabacen,  327 
Mule  arbiter,  427 
Muleteers,  Arrieros,  23 
Mu&ecas,  patio  de  las,  186 
Murchison,  Sir  R.,  42 
Murcia,  kingdom  of,  33& 

,  346 

to  Granada,  342 

to  Cartagena,  349 

to  Madrid,  348 

Murder  crosses,  263 

removed,  859 

Murillo,  B.,  three  styles,. 

191 

house,  188 

,  conceptions  by,  196 

death,  191 

ashes  scattered,  182. 

— —   pictures,    Seville, 

193 


at  theCaridad,  191 

Murphy,  C.,.book,  295 
Murray,  Sir  John,  mis- 
conduct, 353,  356, 400,. 
435 
Murviedro,  385 
Muscatels,  287 


452 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


MU8B0. 


MiueoofSeTiUe,  192 
Music,  Sp.,  102 
Muwallads,  226 


N. 

Najner,  history,  80,  81 

Napoleon.  See  Buona- 
parte. 

Napoleones  (coin),  16 

Naranja,  214 

Narciso,  Sn.,  his  flies,  434 

Nanraez,  alcaide,  265 

,  Gen.,  256 

Nation  of  shopkeepers^ 
En.,  394 

National  resistance,  Sp., 
79 

—  weakness,  Sp.  125 
Natural  chil4ren  of  Sp. 

kings,  246 
Naturalistic  tours,  41 
Nayal  tour,  46 
Navarro,  P.  G.,  388 
Navas,  236 
Navas  de  Toloso,  battle, 

236 
Navigation  of  Ebro,  389 
Navy,  Sp.,  141,  350 
Nebritsensis,  161 
Neighbour,  Sp.,   hatred 

of,  353 
Nelson,  Thiers  on,  77 

—  at  St.  Vincent,  130 

at  Trafalgar,  145 

Neskhi,  305 

Neutral  ground,  269 
New  style  in  Sp.,  64 
Nicodemus,  image  carved 

by,  379 
Nicolas,  San,  323,  355 
Niculoso,  186 
Niebla,  164 

Night  in  Seville,  199, 209 
Niilo  de  Guardia,  244 
Ni&os  de  Ecija,  223 
Nocturnal    promenades, 

199 
Nodo,  el,  1j69 
No<\ps  Herculb,  169 
Nogueras,  Gen.,  woman 

murder,  398 

—  popular,  399 
No  se  puede,  5,  39 


OLXO. 

Non    Natus,    the  Saint, 

426 
Nonsense,  annuals,  312 

,  Mr.  Urqnhart,  271 

Noria,  the,  361 
Normans  in  Spain,  164 
Norman    style    in    Sp., 

403,  413 
Nosotros,  ^claims  of,  70, 

74,  78,   133,  144,  151, 

233, 236, 250, 332, 354, 

417 
Nothus,  337 
Novillos,  90 

Nuevas  poblaciones,  236 
Nuggets,  316 
Nulla  fides  servanda  est 

Hereticis,  425 
Nuliez  y  Taboada,  dict^., 

67 
Nuts,  392,  405 


0. 

Oaths,  Sp.  67 
Obedience,  Sp.,  implicit 

to  king,  358 
Oblivion,  river  of,  159 
Obras  de  Devocion,  84 
—  de  los  Godos,  56 
Obregon,  Marcos  de,  262 
Oca&a,  246 

,  battle  of,  245 

Ocean,  the,  130 
Ochavo.  16 
O'Donnell,  Jos^,  356 
Offering  your  house,  Sp., 

122 

dinner,  123 

Ojala,  127 

Ojen,  282 

Ojos  de  la  Gnadiana,  243 

Ojos  verdes,  281 

OUvide,  Pablo,  236 

Oldegar,     Sn.,     legend, 

403,  414 
Old  gods  popular,  364 
Old  sites,  228,  261,  385 
Old  style,  64 
0*Lea,  Casa  de,  187 
Olive  farm  and  olives, 

214 
Olivares,  town  of,  199 
Olmo,  J.  de,  208 


PALOMINO. 

Olot,  431 

Olvera,  260 

One  cavalry  charge,  ef- 
fects of,  235,  248,  431, 
437 

Onza,  (coin,  precantions), 
16 

Orleans,  Begent,  397 

Ormond,  Lord,  133 

Opposition,  the  En.,  80 

Oranges  of  Seville,  214 

Ordal,  407 

Orga&a,  427 

Orihuela,  351 

Oijiba,  330 

Orozuz,  351 

Oropesa,  388 

Orospedan  chain,  342 

Orrente,  P.  style,  375 

Osius,  Bishop,  224,  325 

Osorio,  Uraca,  213 

Osuna,  254 

Owen  Jones,  295,  304 


P. 

Pacheco,  F.,  75 
Paciecus,  279 
Paciencia  y  barajar,  7 
Padilla,  Aiaria  de,  186 
Padul,  330 

Painted  sculpture,  Sp.,  51 
Painters,  chief  Sp.,  55 
Paintings  in  Alhambn, 

311 
Painting,  toar,  54 
Pajarete,  158 
Pajez,  guitars,  107, 131 
Palabras,  Sp.,  65,  139 
Palacios,  los,  Sp.  161 
Paleozoic,  rocl^  of,  Sb^ 

43 
Palladium  of  Baroelooit 

413 

of  Catalonia,  422 

of  Granada,  325 

of  Tortosa,  398 

of  Valencia,  371 

Palm  trees,  the,  352 

of  Cordova,  230 

Palmitos,  129 
Palos,  163 

Palomino,  book  on  tf*^ 

75 


INDEX  TO  PART  I, 


453 


PAN. 

Pan  de  Dios,  159 

Pan  y  Peces,    Murillo, 

191 
Pafiopardo,  116,  237 
Pantano  de  Lorca,  344 

—  de  Tibi,  355 
Pantheon,  49 
Papel  de  hilo,  357 
Parameras,  las,  28 
Parapanda,  303 
Parklike  scenery,  218 
Parole,  F.,  77 
Parra,  la,  177 

Parti  prdtre,  422 
Paso  of  the  Virgin,  53 
Pasos,  50 

Passamonte,  Juan,  244 
Passavant,  J.  D.,  Book,  72 
Passport  and  precautions, 

13 
Patio,  173 
de  la  Alberca,  306 

—  de  Leones,  309 

de  los  Naranjos,  176 

Patricio,  San,  345 
Patrona   of    Barcelona, 

413 

—  of  Granada,  325 
Paul  of  Spain,  the  St., 

378 
Pedestrian  tours  (avoid), 

23 
Pedigree,  an  old,  279 
Pedro  el  Cruel,  palace, 

185; 

—  murder  of,  243 
Fedroso,  el,  221 
Pelar  lapava,  173 
Fellejos  jaspeados,  366 
Feluquero,  el,  372 
Pefia  La,  Sp.  Genl.,  mis- 
conduct, 144 

Pefia  golosa,  387 
Pendentiyes,  Stalactical, 

306 
Peninsular  steamers,  18 
Pe&iscola,  388 
Pefion  de  los  Enamora- 

dos,  266 
People  of  Spain,  8,  79 
Permian  rocks,  43 
Perillo,  390 
PerpiSian  to  Barcelona, 

431 

—  to  Gerona,  435 


PONZ. 

Perros,  95. 
Pertiis,  col  de,  437 
Peseta,  16 
Peso,  17 
Petaca,  109. 

Peterborough,  Lord,  400 
Peter  Martyr  of  Angle- 

ria,  294 
Petrel,  353 
Pfendler,  Dr.,  327 
Philip  IV.,  el  grande,  290 
Philosophy  of  *  if,'  66 
Phoenician  policy,  349 
Phormio  and  Hannibal, 

81 
Phrases,  Sp.,  68 
Picacho,  el,  327 
Picadores,  93 
Picardias,  113 
Pico  de  Veleta,  327 
Pickman,  Mr.,  212,  227 
Pictures,  Sp.,  55 
,  cautions   to    pur- 
chasers, 55 
Picturesque  Barbarians, 

5,46 
Pi^es  officielles,  F.,  79 
Pigeon-fanciers,  368 
Pilatos,  casa  de,  187 
Pillars  of  Hercules,  271 
Pillo  Andaluz,  234 
Pineda,  Mariana,  323 
Pinos,  bridge  of,  257 
Pinto,  246 
Pintor,  de  la  Ck>ncepcion, 

196 
Pio  Nono,  his  panacea, 

194 
Pious  curiosity,  364 
^—  frauds,  relics,  322 
Plate  plunder,  Fr.,  60 
Plateresco,  el,  56 
Pleonasms,  Sp.,  66 
Plunder-Master-general 

Soult,177 
Plus  ultra,  63 
Pobla  de  Lillet,  430 
Poblet,  406 
Polizones,  27 
Polio,  el,  116 
Pomegranate,  297 
Pompey ,  1 53,  438 
Ponderacion,  Sp„  127 
Pontifex  Maximus,  402 
Ponz,  A.,  Viaje  de,  73 


PYRENEES. 

Poore,  Laurence,  175 
Popes,  Sp.,  359 
Population,  Sp.,  33 
Porron,  394 
Port  Vendres,  439 
Posada,  24 

Post-horses,  charges,  21 
Post-office  and  letters,  21 
Pott  on  ^psies,  67 
Pradt,Abb^de,  77 
PrescoU,  163,  256,  294, 

321 
Presidio,  411 

correccional,  377 

Primary  rocks,  Sp.,  42 
Principality   of  Catalo- 
nia, 391 
Prints  in  Sp.,  55 
Processions    at    Seville, 

194 
Prodigios  de  valor,  Sp., 

74,  232 
Pronunciation,  66 
Pronunciamiento,      285, 

354 
Propina,21 

Protestantism,  Eng.,  120 
Proverbs,  Sancho    Pan- 

za's,  242 
Provincial  divisions,  Sp.V 

33 
Puertos,  mountain  passes, 

30 
Puerto  Lapiche,  244 

Real,  140 

de  S.  Maria,  139 

Serrano,  260 

Puente  del  Diablo,  402 

de  Espia,  428 

de  Ferreras,  402 

Puigcerdd,  428 

Pulgar,  H.  P.  de.  266, 

321 
Pundonor,  12 
Punica  fides,  99, 208, 286, 

327,  329,  358,  386 
Puntilla,  97 
Purchasers  of  art,  hints 

to,  55 
Purchena,  33$  . 
Purones,  109 
PuruUena,  342 
Putos,  224 
Pyrenees,  437 


454 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


QUAftANTA. 

Q. 

QoAnnta  Horas,  59 
Qaemadero,  206 
Qaesada,  General,  147, 

S72 
» Tenta  de,  243 
Qaeslin,  du,  243 
Qaicksilyer  mine,    219, 

220 
Qnien  sabe,  5 
Qoizote,   Don,   critique 

of,  238 

R. 

Rabbit,  the  conejo,  47 
Rabida,   Sa.    Maria  de, 

168 
Rabitofl,  163 
Ragged  staff,  277 
Railway,  Ferro  carril,  S., 

19 
Raisins,  287 
Rambla,  20,  259 
Ramon  Nonat,  St.,  426 
Rasgo  Heroico,  book,  64 
Rateros,  Raterillos,  26 
Real  (coin),  16 
Reding,  Gen.,  at  Bailen, 

233 
— ,  death  of,  405 
Reflections  on    the  Al- 

hambra,  312 
Refranes,  242 
Regalada,  la,  232 
Regla  de  Santiago,  189 
Reino  de  Murcia,  338 

de  Valencia,  360 

Reja,  58,  172 
Rejeros,  best,  60 
Rejon,  89 
Relicario,  el,  60 
Relics  forged,  322 
Religion,  in  Spain,  61, 

207 
Religious  nomenclature, 

324 
-^—  stimulant,  422 

tour,  61 

Remembrances  of  riding 

tours,  38 
Repartimiento  of  Seville, 

169 
^«pique,  el,  176 


ROBLAS. 

Resignation  of  Sp.,  7 
Restoration  of  Virginity, 

421 
Retablo,  59 
Retecilla,  96 
Retirement,  Sp.,  to  a  cell, 

422 
Reus,  Condes  de,  405 
Reus  to  Poblet,  405 
Revenue  of  Sp.,  33 
Rey  Bermejo,  186 

Chico,  el,  293 

portrait,  314 

Reyes  Catolicos,  63 
Rejma  Coquina,  300 
Riano,  D.  de,  182 
Ribadeneyra,  P.,  75 
Ribalta,  pictures,  374, 375 

at  Oxford,  375 

lUbera,  F.  E.  de,  187 
Ribera,  J.  de,  "  lo  Spag- 

noletto,"  359 
Rice,  361 

Richards,  Genl.,  355 
Rico,  the  monk,  367 
Riding  post,  Sp.,  22 
Riding  tour,  benefits  of,  38 
Riego,  142 
Rigodones,  104 
Rincon,  Antonio,  315 
RioTinto,  217 

Verde,  281 

Rioja,  ode  of,  213 
RipoU,  431 

Riquilda,  legend  of,  420 
Rivalry  of  F.  marshals, 

145 
Rivers  in  Spain,  28,  30 
Rivers,  Lord,  255 
Roads,  Sp.,  20 
Roberts,  Oavid,  295 
Robbers,  Precautions,  26 
Rocadillo,  el,  153 
Roca  estrecha,  422 
Rocca,  his  book,  260 
Rocha  Fnda,  243 
Roche,  Col.,  356 
Rock,  the,  271 
Roda,  255 
Roderick  K.of  the  Goths, 

148 
Rodrigo,  fighting  Archb., 

236 
Roelas,  style  of,  197, 198, 

199 


I  ST.  VINCENT. 

I  Roig,  Padre,  on  Flies,  434 
;  RoUo,  el,  223 

Romance,  language,  66 
'  Romerias,  61 
;  Romey,  Sp.  GUstory  of,  73 
>  Roncali,  Count,  355 

Ronda,  261 

I the  Fair,  262 

I toGranada,  251,264 

I to  Gibraltar,  267 

!  —  to  Malaga,  266 

to  Seville  by  Esija, 


260 


to  Seville,    by  01- 


vera,  260 

—  to  Seville,   by 
hara,  260 

—  to  Xerez,  263 
la  Vieja,  261 


Za- 


Rondena,  107 
RonquUlo,    Alcalde    ds, 

249 
Rooke,  Sir  George,  272 
Roque,  San,  268 
Rosa,  M.  de  la,  292 
Rosario  of  Virgin,  194 
Rosas,  438 

to  Figueras,  438 

Rossmassler,  book,  412 
Rou^h  it  in  Sp.,  129 
Rovira,  Dr.,  437 
Royal  tombs,  406 
Rubrica,  125 
Ruin,  Spain  one  great,  57 
Ruiz,  Fernando,  174 
Rum  and  Beef,  E.,  Foy 

on,  77 
Ruse  doubl^e  de  terreur, 

77 

S. 

Sacandp  pianos,  13 

Saceruela,  242 

Sack,  sherris,  157 

Sacristia,  60 

Sacristan,  el,  60 

Safar,  64 

Sagrario,  60 

Sagres,  130 

Saguntum,  385 

Sainete,  101 

St  George,  Hospital  o( 

St.  Vincent,  legend,  1311 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


456 


8ALA. 

Sala  Capitular,  60 
—  de  las  dos  Herma- 

nas,  311 
de  lo8  EmbajadoreSy 

308 
Salado,  battle  of,  149 
Salados,  31 
Salazar,  S.  de,  131 
Salduba,  281 
Salinas,  las,  142 
Salitres,  203 
Salmonetes,  138 
Salobrena,  332 
Salon,  el,  136,  208 
$alou,  port  of,  405 
Salt  mine  at  Cardona,  426 
Salto  tras  cuemo,  96 
San  Pan,  397 
Sanchez,  Jesuit,  225 
— — ,  casa,  300 
Sancho  Ortiz  de  Boelas, 

187 
Sancho  Panza,  remarks 

on,  239 
Sancti  Petri,  140 
Sangre,  la,  203 

azul,  su,  224 

Santa  Faz,  la,  258 

Fe,  the  town,  326 

Santi  Ponce,  212 
Santiago,  Maestre  de,  186 
Santiago,  canon  or  regla 

of,  189 
Santisima,  la,  59 
Santo  Calix,  370 

Fraile,  el,  426 

Ribera,  el,  373 

Rostro,  el,  258 

Sarahuells,  365 

Sarria,  412 

Saumarez,  Adml.,  152 

Saucejo,  261 

Sayalo,  202 

Schak,    on  Sp.  theatre, 

108 
Schepeler,  book,  78 
Schwartz,  blunders,  419 
Scipio's  tomb,  402 

at  Carthagena,  349 

Scorpions  of  the  rock,  274 
Scull  goblets,  261 
Sculptors,  chief  Sp.,  51 
Sculpture,  Sp.,  49 

. tours,  48 

Sebastian!,  victory,  247 


SEVILLE. 

Sebastiani,  pillage,   285, 
294,  324,  347,  348 

,    ravages,    Albam- 

bra,  299,  313,  325 
cruelty,  294,  313, 


319,  331,  347 
Seco,  157 
Secondary  rocks  of  Sp., 

43 
Securities,  avoid  Sp.,  121 
Sed  la,  Murillo,  191 
Segorbe,  384 
Segre,  river,  428 
Seguidillas,  238 
Segura,  forest  of,  336 
— ,  river,  346 

de'Leon,  218 

Siege  of  Algeciras,  152, 

of  Baza,  343 

of  Gibraltar,  273 

of  Gerona,  435 

Seises,  los,  183 
Senectutis  nidulus,  423 
Senora,  N.,  de  los  Desam- 

parados,  371 

del  O,  211 

Sentinels,  challenges,  123 
Seo  de  Urgel,  427 
Sephan,  47 
Sepulchral    monuments, 

49 
Serenos,  363 
Sema,    la.    Vandalisms, 

800,  306 
Serpentine,  rock,  328 
Serrania  de  Ronda,  251 
Serranos,  snails,  339 
Settled  Boney,  81 
Seville ;    inns,    lackeys, 

1 66  ;  tradesmen,  cli- 
mate, books  on,  plans, 

167  ;  early  history, 
Roman,  Moorish,  168 ; 
conquest,  armorial 
bearings,  motto,  169 ; 
Junta  of,  Soult,  plun- 
der and  defeat,  majos, 
monuments,  life  in, 
walls,  171 ;  Roman 
antiquities,  Moorish, 
streets  and  houses,  172 ; 
Azulejos,  Giralda,  1 73 ; 
bells,  patronesses,  ca- 
thedral library,  176; 
exterior  of  cathedral. 


SEVILLE. 

Gradus,  Lonja,  177; 
cathedral  described,  to 
185 ;  Alcazar,  ib. ;  gar- 
dens, 186  ;  Moorish 
houses,  187 ;  Casa  de 
Pilatos,  Murillo's 

house,  1 88 ;  the  elergy, 
189;  Caridad,  Muril- 
los,  Soult's  plunder, 
190;  pictures,  collec- 
tions, cautions  to  pur- 
chasers, 191 ;  Museo, 
Murillos,  193;  Imma- 
culate Conception,  the 
dogma  and  observance, 
how  painted.  Univer- 
sity, 196  ;  churches, 
198 ;  plazas  and  pro- 
menades, 199 ;  La  Fe- 
ria,  200 ;  markets.  La 
Cuna,  gipsies,  201 ; 
Savalo,  Buena  Vista, 
Macarena,  202 ;  La 
Sangre,  Salitres,  203; 
Caiios  de  Carmina, 
Fundicion,  Bula  de 
Crusada,  204 ;  Bara- 
teros,  205 ;  Fabrica  de 
Tabacos,  cigars,  snufF, 
Quemadero  luquisi-- 
tion,  206 ;  catacombs, 
Allhalloween,  walks, 
208 ;  San  Telmo,  Torre 
del  Oro,  Atarazanas, 
Bacalao,  209 ;  Bull- 
fights, quays,  210 ; 
bridges,  Triana,  211 ; 
La  Cartuja,  Italica, 
213;  oranges  and  olives, 
214 
Seville  to  Almaden,  216 

to  Badajoz,  248 

to  Cadiz,  by  water, 

153 

to  Cadiz,  by  land, 

155 


—  to  Granada  by  Cor- 
dova, 256 

—  to  Granada  by  Jaen, 
258 

—  to  Granada  by  0«u- 
na,  254 

—  to  Madrid,  221 

—  toNiebla,  164 

—  to  Rio  Tinto,  216 


456 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


SEVILLE. 

Serille  to  Ronda  byEcija, 
260 

to  Ronda  by  01- 

Tera,  260 

—  to  Xerei,  161 

—  to  Ronda   by  Za- 
hara,  260 

Shaking     Sp.,     Ladies* 

hands,  122 
Shepherd  Guide,    mira- 

culoQS,  236 
Sherry  wines,  157 
Shooting  tour,  47 
Sierra,  30 
Sierra  de  Gador,  331 

Morena,  221 

Nevada,  329 

ascent  of,  327 

—  del  Puerco,  144 
Siete  Suelos,  314 
Silius  Italicus,  212 
Silkworms,  328 
Sillas  correo,  mails,  22 
Silos,  815 

Simon  de  Montfort,  207 
Simulacros  y  Imagenes, 

49 
Sin  Pecados,  194 
Skelton,  T.  (Don  Quix- 
ote), 241 
Skerret,  Col.,  at  Tarifa, 

150^  400 
Sketching  precautions,  1 3 
Slidell,  Mr.,  book,  389 
Slings,  267 
Smith,  C.  Felix,  150 
Smuggling,  Sp.,  393 
Smugglers  of  Ronda,  252 
Snails,  339 
Snake  broth,  143 
Socorros  de  EspaSia,  57, 

139,  144,  156 
Ssetabis,  357 
Solano,  wind,  134 
Soldados  de  Pavia,  210 
Soldier    and  gentleman, 

E.,  82 
SoUo,  el,  202 
Solsona,  427 
Somatenes,  419 
Sombrero,  gacho,  119 
Soto  de  Roma,  257,  325 
Soult,    Marshal,    defeat, 

Albuera,  250 

—  victory,  Ocatka,  245 


SPAIN. 

Soult,  art  plunder  of,  1 70, 
177,  180,  190,  254 

cruelties,  170,  204, 

212,  213,  254 

desecration,     182, 

197,  201,  203,  246 

sale  of  plunder,  191 

jealous  of  Sebasti- 

ani,  294 
Soult's  brother,  348 
Southampton    to  Cadiz, 

130 
Southey,  history,  80 
Spain,    mountains,  divi- 
sion into  zones,  28 

aid,  139,  144,  156 

and  Spaniards,  pre- 
face, and  12,  36,  297 

—  architecture^  55  • 
bad  government,  8, 


28,  74,  209,  293 

baths,  40,  291 

beggars,  120,  185 

books,  85 

bull-fights,  88-100 

cigars,  109,206 

clergy,  189 

climate,  29,  32,  37, 

149 

—  costumes,  110,  111, 
117,120 

' dances,  102,  104 

defeats,    235,    245, 

247,     248,    250,    289, 
344,    347,    367,     386, 
437 
Spain,  documents,  76 

E^pafiolismo,     79, 

118,  235,289,  417 

forms   of  courtesy, 

122 

geography,  27 

geology,    42,     127, 

426 

—  grandiloquence,  65, 
127,  138,  239 

,  heraldry,  64 

how   to  deal  with 

Sp.,  278 
lllustrado,  el,  46 

—  images    and    idols, 
49,  51 

— —  inns,  24 

ingratitude,       133, 

163,  213,  240,  280 


STEAMERS. 

Spain,  inquisition,  206 

— •  Jesuits,  424 

language,  64 

Mariolatry,  53, 128, 

194,195,^47,325,364, 
371,398,413,  419,  422 

military  works,  78 

—  mines,  339,  341 

money,  15,  16 

murder  crosses,  263, 

359 

—  music,  102 

natioxuil  resistance, 

79 

weakness,  125 

navy,  141,350 

nosotros,        preten- 


sions of,  70,   78,  133, 
145,    151,      232,     236, 
333,354,  417 
painting,  54 

palabras,    65,   139, 

127 

paucity     of     great 

men,  139 

picturesque    barba- 
rians, 5,  46 
people,  8,  36,  79 

—  Punica     fides,     99, 
234,  236,  358 

repudiation,  134 

religion,  120 

resignation,  7 

rivers,  28,  30 

robbers,  26 

self-love,    87,   125, 

422 

sculpture,  51 

Spain,  short-li-ved  great* 

ness  of,  87 

smuggling,  252, 393 

tendency  to  monk' 

hood,  422 

—  theatre,  lOi 

truth,  Eng.,  a  Ubdl,, 

73,  125 
wines,  37,  157,24i 

287,  388 
Spagnoletto,  359,  375 
SiTAMM,  70,  269 
Standish,  Mr.,  158 
Steam    commanical 

18 
Steamers,   Sp.   in'vcnl 

of,  417 


mUEX.  TO  PABT  I. 


467 


8TBRILITT. 

Sterility,  cure  for,  381, 

427 
Stew  of  rice,   miracle, 

379 
Stirling,  W.,  book,  72 
Straits  of  Gibraltar,  148 
Sabjects  for  anthors,  35 
Sachet^  Marshal,  yandal- 

isms  and  cnielties,  875, 

385,  400,  405,  422 
Sueca,  882 
Sugar-cane,  289 
Son's    coarse    arrested, 

218 
Snperstition,    Yaleneia, 

364 
Snria,  426 
Sweetmeats,  856 
Synagogue,  276 
Syros,  315 


T. 

Taas,  329 

Tabaoo  de  fhdle,  206 

Tabardillo,  el,  200 

Tablada,  210 

Tablas,  las,  93 

Tabnla  post  Nanfrmgiun, 
423 

Tadmor,  388 

Tagarete,  el,  209 

Tajo,  el,  de  Ronda,  261 

Taking  off  hat,  import- 
ance of,  14 

Talca,  212 

Tambonrine,  104 

Tangiers,  279 

Tanto  Monta,  63 

Tapadas,  las,  150 

Tapia,  162 

Tarif  for  landing  fiEom 
steamers,  19 

Tarifk,  siese,  149 

Tftrife&as,  las»  160 

Tarik,  272 

Tarkish,  49 

Tarragona,  400 

Tarragona,  siege  of,  400 

■'         to  Bfldreelona,  406 

to  Tortosa,  899 

to  Valencia,  886 

Tarta]ia,868 

Tkrtessos,  126 


TOICAR. 

Tautromaqnia,  88 
Taaromaquian  terms,  92, 

97 
Taza  de  plata,  132 
Tea,  la,  197 
Teba,  264 
Tecla,  Santa,  403 
Telmo,  San,  209 
Tembleque,  244 
Templars,  the  order,  855 
Tendido,  el,  92 
Tendency  to  torn  monks, 

Sp.,  422 
TendUla,  conde  de,  818 
Tenebrario,  el,  180 
Tenorio,  Jnan,  201 
Tent  wine,  139 
Tentndia,  218 
Tepentes  Buxns,  187 
Temo,  from  St.  Paul's, 

370,  404 
Terra  cottas,  287 
Terraza,  la,  265 
Tertiary  rocks  of  Spain, 

44 
Tertnlia,  la,  101 
Tertttlianos,  los,  101 
Tetnan,  279 
Thegrim,  292 
Theodoric,  351 
Thiers,  Mons.,  Historical 

Romances,  76 

on  Bailen,  235 

on  Trafalgar,  147 

—  on  Nelson,  77 
•^—  on  Wellington,  77 
— —  settled  by  Napier, 

81 
Threshing-floors,  246 
Tia  Antonia,  300 
Tibi,  356 
TierraCaliente,  30 

de  la  FJmtisima, 

128,  195 

Tilli,  Count,  233 

Tiuijas  de  Totana,  346 

Tinto,  139 

Tirante  lo  Blanc,  876 

Tirso  de  Molina,  201 

TlUes,  Sp.,  124 

Toboso,  el,  244 

Tocador  de  la  Reina,  808 

Tofino,  v.,  181 

Toldo,  178 

Tomar  el  firesco»  136 


TRUTH. 

Tomb  of  Scipio,  402 
Tooth  of  St  Christopher, 

370 
Top  of  Sierra  Nevada, 

327 
Torcal,  el,  265 
Torcuato,  San,  342 
Toreno,  Conde  de,  his- 
tory o£i  79 
Toril,  el,  92 
Toros  de  Caerda,  90 

da  Ronda,  262 

Torre  de  Bre^,  423 

de  los  Escipiones, 

402 


del  Oro,  172,  209 

del  Pico,  313 

de  la  Vela,  308 

Torredembarra,  407 
Torre  Farfan,  F.  de,  167 
Torres  Bermejas,  301 
Torremolinos,  283 
Torrigiano,  P.,  193 
Torre  turpiana,  322 
Torrijos,  Gen.,  286 
Torta  Francesa,  204 
Tortells,  410 
Tortosa,  396 

to  Tarragona,  399 

Totana,345 

Tours  in  Sp.,  various,  34, 

41 
—  for  summer,  45 

for  naturalists,  41 

Trafalgar,  the   victory, 

145 

,  Buonaparte  on,  147 

,  Thiers  on,  147 

Trasparente,  el,  59 
Tres  puentes,  los,  427 

Tours,  410 

Trevelez,  331 
Triana,  171,  211 
Tribagia,  187 
Tribunal  of  Irrigation, 

861 
— —  del  repeso,  868 
Trigneros,  166 
Trillo,  el,  245 
Triunfo,  el,  211 
Trocadero,  140 
Trout-fishing,  48 
Truth  £.,  unpopular  in 

Sp.,  73,  87 
^,  English,  81 


458 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


TUSTNIBS. 

Tunnies,  145 
Tapper,  Mr.,  867 
Turba  deorum,  380 
TurU,  River,  861 
Turkey  and  Truffle,  425 
Turres  Hannibalis,  162 
Turroues,  355 
Tutear,  el,  124 
Tutelars,  local,  364 

of  Barcelona,  413 

of  Tarragona,  403 

Tsefysa,  229 


U. 

Ubeda,  336 
Udina,  6.  da,  309 
Ujijar,  331 
Ukert,  F.  A.,  73 
Ultimo  Sospiro  del  Moro, 

328 
Ummeyah,  dynasty,  225 
Undertakers,  Sp.,  281 
University  of  Seville,  196 
Urbina,    defeat    of  Sp. 

Gen.,  247 
Urgel,  427 
—  to  Barcelona,  418 

to  Bonaigua,  430 

to  Gerona,  430 

to  Montluis,  428 

to  Tarascon,  429 

Urquhart,  Mr.  David,  27 1 
Usted,  v.,  124 
Utrera,  159 
Uva  passa,  287 


V. 

V.  usted,  124 
Vago  Italiano,  73 
Valdelvira,  P.  de,  336 
Valdemoro,  246 
Valdepefias,  wine,  242 

to  Alinaden,  246 

Valencia,  the  kingdom  of, 
360 

366 

books  on,  365 

to  Murviedro,  383 

to  Tarragona,  386 

^  to  Xativa,  359 
-  de  Leon,  218 


▼XLLANUEVA. 

Yalencian  cuisine,  362 
—  costume,  365 

stockings,  365 

writers,  363 

Valentias,  362 
Valle  de  Aran,  428 
Vails,  405 
Vamos  alia,  205 
Vanda,  la,  63,  298 
Vandoiino,  el,  225 
Van  Halen,  J.,  399 
Vaporoso  style,  191 
Vargas,  L.  de,  174,  181 
Vedel,  Gren.,  at  Biulen, 

233 
Vega,  324 
Vegas,  291 

of  Granada,  296,302 

Veguerias,  395 

Vejer,  the  insurrection, 

147 
Velad  Arrum,  225 
Veladas,  61,  200 
Velez  Malaga,  289 

el  Rubio,  344 

Velo,  178 

Venddmct  due  de,  388 
Vendrell,  407 
Venere  Callipige,  103 
Venido  en  coche,  122 
Venta,  24 
Ventisqueros,  327 
Venus  Salambo,  175 
VenysoUo,  383 
Vemeuil,  Mons.  de,  42 
Veronica,  Santa,  258 
Vdtus  du  climat,  202 
Viaje  de  Espa&a,  73 
Viardot,  Mons.,  184 
Vicente,  San,  his  crow, 

199 
Vicente  de  Ferrer,  San, 

364,  378 
Victoires  et  ConquStes, 

F.,  76 
Victor,  Marshal,  defeats 

and  ravages,  133^  140, 

144,  150 
Vidrieras,  60 
Vieja,  la,  old  site,  228 
Villafranca  de  Panades, 

407 
Villamil,  G.  P.,  57 
Villanueva  del  Rio,  216, 

221 


WELLINOTON. 

Villena,  353 

Villeneuve  Adml.  F.,  147 
Villo^omat,       Antonio, 

414,416 
Villoutreys,     F.,    Genl., 

plunder,  231 
Vinardz,  388 
Vino  moro,  242 
Vique,  431 
Virgin  worship,  364 
Virgen  Aparecida,  211 

de  la  Antigraa,  181 

de  los  Desampara- 

dos,  364 

of  Monserrat,  419 

Miracles,  books  on, 

421 

del  Prado,  247 

Virgins,  the  eleven  thou- 
sand, 337 
Viril,  59 
Visiting,    hints    on    Sp. 

forms  of,  122,  123 
Viso,  221 
Vivarambla«  317 
Vocales,  138 
Volapie,  el,  97 
Volcanic  district,  348 
Voragine,  J.,  legends,  75 
Vos,  M.  de,  193 
Votive  tablets,  199 
Vultures,      Sp.      under- 
takers, 281 


W. 

Wa  la  ghfliba  ilia  Allah. 

298 
Walking  in  Sp.  Streets 

122 
Wall,  Richard,  298 
War,  E.  and  F.,  of  giasti 

in  Sp.,  46 
Washington  Irvinfr,  163 
\^  eights  and  Measurei, 

Sp.,  71 
Wellesley,  Lord,  176 
Wellington,  Duke,  eht* 

racter  of,  81 

opinion  on  Sp.,  6, 15 

—  on  F.  bulletins,  75 

on  F.  Parole,  77 

— '• —  on  the  salvation  of 

Sp.,  78 


INDEX  TO  PART  I. 


459 


WELLINGTON. 

XIJONA. 

ZUBBASAN. 

Wellington,  on  Sp.  docu- 

Wetherell, Mr.,  208 

Ximena,  278 

ments,  79 

What  not  to  observe  in 

Xiquena,  344 

criticised  by  Napier, 

Sp.,  34 

81 

Wilfred  el  Velloso,  418 

Y 

dispatches,  81 

Williams,    Don    Julian, 

X  • 

his  own  editor,  82 

166 

Yecla,  353 

love  of  truth,  81 

Wimbleton,  Lord,  133 

Yellow,   Judas   Iscariot 

hatred  of  pillage,  82 

Windmills,  Don    Quix- 

in, 51 

on  defending  Cadiz, 

ote's,  244 

Yusuf  I.,  298 

133 

Wine-making,  Sp.,  388 

on  Cortes  of  Cadiz, 

Wines  of  Malaga,  287 

Z. 

138 

of  Montilla,  224 

^■^  * 

on  politics  of  Jun- 

 of  Valdepenas,  242 

Zacatin,  316 

tas,  139 

of  Xerez,  157 

Zafra,  248 

on  Barrosa,  144 

Woodcocks,  47 

Zaguan,  el,  173 

Working  mines,  341 

Zahara,  260 

145 

Zamarra,  113 

on  defence  of  Tarifa, 

Zancarron,  229 

150 

X. 

Zapateo,  104 

on  Bailen,  235 

Zarcillo,  F.,  347 

on  Ferdinand  VII. 

Xantippa,  Santa,  223 

Zarinefias,  the,  376 

436 

Xativa,  357 

Ze^pcis,  the,  292 

on  Sp.  officers,  235, 

to  Alicante,  355 

Zeigler,  his  book,  33 

245,  356,  386 

to  Elche,  353 

Zeviya,  166 

—  on  Sp.  guerrilleros. 

to  Valencia,  359 

Zincali,  201 

252 

Xenil,  316 

Zones  of  Sp.,  28 

on  Ocalia,  245 

Xerez,  156 

Zorayah,  the  frail,  292, 

on  Albuera,  260 

to  Ronda,  263 

315 

estate  near  Granada, 

to  Seville,  161 

Zuazo,  puente  de,  141 

326 

de  los   Caballeros, 

Zubia,  329 

. on  Sir  John  Mur- 

218 

Zuniga,  annals,  167 

ray's  failures,  353, 401 

Xijona,  355 

Zurbaran,  F.,  192 

LOVDOir :  PBnrriD  bt  willtak  clowvs  and  som,  stamvord  ffrearr, 

ANI>  CHABOrO  cBoes. 


MURRAY'S 

FOREIGN  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER, 

1859. 

Thr  great  advantage  of  this  medium  of  AdvertisiDg  for  those  who  are  desirous  of  com- 
manicating  information  to  Travellers  can  scarcely  be  questi<Mied,  as  it  enables  Steam, 
Railway,  and  other  Public  (Companies,  Landlords  of  Inns,  Tradesmen,  and  others,  to  bring 
under  the  immediate  notice  of  the  great  mass  of  English  and  American  Tourists  who 
resort  to  France,  Belgium,  Germany,  Switzerland,  Italy,  Spain  uid  Portugal,  Sweden, 
Norway,  Denmark,  Russia,  the  East,  and  other  parts  of  the  world  every  Season,  in  the 
most  direct  way,  the  various  merits  of  their  Railways,  Steamers,  Hotels,  Taverns,  Articles 
of  Merchandise,  Works  of  Art,  and  such  other  information  as  they  may  desire  to  make 
known.  Instead  of  being  limited  to  the  casual  publicity  of  a  Daily,  Weekly,  or  Monthly 
Periodical,  The  Handbook  Advertisbb  has  the  additional  merit  of  being  displayed,  for  the 
entire  year,  in  a  permanent  work  of  interest  and  of  perpetual  reference. 

Annual  Ciroulationy  12,000. 

Advertisements  must  be  paid  in  advance  and  sent  to  the  Publisher's  l^20th  of  April  in  eack 
year.  The  Charges  are-— A  Page,  41.  Half-page,  22. 2s.  A  Column,  2{.  2s.  Haifa  Column,  1{.2«. 


INDEX    TO    ADVERTISEMENTS. 


GERMANY. 

Bbeijn.— Harsch's  Glass  Warehouse  .     .  15 
Kobbe's  Commission  Agency     ...  16 

BOKK.— Golden  Star  Hotel 35 

CAKLSBA.D.— Wolf  8  Glass  Manufactory  .  11 
COLOGKK.— Farina's  £au  de  Coi(^e  .  .  10 
Dresden. — Magazine  of  Fine  Arts  .  .11 
FsANKFORT. — Bing's  Manufactory  .  .  8 
Tacchi's  Glass  Warehouse  ....  9 
BShler's  Manufactory  of  Staghom  .  12, 13 

Roman  Emperor  Hotel 14 

Gratz. — ^Arcluluke  John  Hotel.     ...  18 
Munich. — Wimmer's  Magazine     ...    7 

Four  Seasons  Hotel 20 

Prague  and  Vienna.— Hofinann's  Glass 

Manufactory 11 

Viknka.— Lobmeyr's  Glass  Manufactoiy   14 

FRANCE,  SWITZERLAND,  &  ITALY. 

BEtiBNZ.—Gro8smann's  Wood  Sculpture  .    6 

Chamounix.— Hdtels  de  Saussure,  &c     .  18 

Florence. — Bianchini's  Mosaic     ...    6 

Mannaioni's  Marble  Works  .     .     .     .14 

Costa  and  Conti,  Artists 16 

Geneva.— Baudin,  Watchmakers  ...  18 
Leghorn.— Micali's  Marble  Works  .  .11 
Nice.— How's  Hdtel  de  I'Univers  .  .  f 
Paris.— Baudin,  Watchmakers  ...  18 
PiBA. — Huguet  and  Van  lint,  Sculptors  .    6 

Bomb  — Fabri,  Printseller 18 

Shea's  House  and  Shipping  Agency  .  43 
Venice. — Brocchieri's  Glass  Warehouse  .  15 
ZuiucH.—-Kerez,  Chemist 44 

MALTA. 

Morreirs  Hotel 

Belluti,  Dragoman 


•      •      •             •      .  2s 
44 

ENGLAND. 
Custom  House  Agents— MoCrackbn    .     .    2 

Gary's  Telescope 1 

Williams  and  Norgate,  Booksellers    .     .  16 
Olivier  and  Carr,  General  Agents  ...  17 

May,  1859. 


Allen's  Patent  Portmanteaus  .     .     .     .  19 

Heal's  Bedsteads 2I 

Constable's  Books  for  Travellers   ...  22 
Spiers'  Ornamental  Manufactures  ...  23 

Havefs  French  Class  Book 22 

Adams's  Passport  Agency  Office   ...  23 

Pelican  Life  Insurance 24 

London  and  Westminster  Bank     ...  24 

Hull  Steamers 24 

Mechi's  Dressing  Cases 24 

I'hresher's  Flannel  Shirts 24 

Royal  Insurance  Office 26 

Locock's  Pulmonic  Wafers 26 

AthensBum 26 

South-Eastem  Railway 27 

Murray's  Editions  for  the  People  ...  28 
Brighton  aud  South  Coast  Railway     .     .  29 

Italy,  Paris,  &c 30 

Blackwood's  Maps 31 

Murray's  Historic  Class-Books  ....  32 

South-Westem  Railway 33 

Photographs  of  Egypt 33 

Murray's  English  Handbooks  ....  34 
Handbooks  for  Travellers  Abroad,  &c  .  35 
French  and  Englfsh  VocabuUuy  .  .     .     .  3t 

Works  on  the  Fine  Arts 33 

Ai|;us  Life  Assurance 39 

Tennant,  Geologist 39 

Illustrated  Works 40 

Southgate's  Portmanteaus 41 

Panama  R^lway 42 

Cromarty 42 

Letters  from  the  Peninsula 42 

Galignani's  Paris  Guide 42 

Handbook  of  Quotations 42 

Thimm,  Foreign  Bookseller      ....  42 

Modern  Domestic  Cookery 44 

Rowland's  Perfumery 44 

Black's  Guide  Books 45 

Lavin's  Cornish  Museum 46 

National  Bank  of  Scotland 46 

Stanford's  Passport  Office 4t 

Lee  and  Carter^s  Guide  Depdt ....  48 

B 


MDBRAT'S  HA2n>B00K  ADVERTISER. 


BRITISH  CUSTOMS  DUTIES. 


LoRDOH,  May  1, 185t. 

MESSRS.   J.   &   R.    MCCRACKEN, 

7,  OLD  JBWRT,  LONDON, 

IMPORTERS  OF  FOREIGN  WINES, 

And  Agenli  to  IbMn.  A.  BBLGAXK)  and  SiOr,  of  Cadlv. 

▲OEirrS,  BT  APPOINTMENT,  TO  TH£  BOTAL  AGADEMT,  NATIONAL  QALLEST, 
AND  GOYEBNMBNT  DEPABTMENT  OF  SdBNOB  AND  ABT» 

8ol6  Agttitf  of  Xr.  J.  IL  7ABIVA.  w4k^vU  l&naee  Jnlitn,  Cologne 
JmiAffmUgeneroUyfof  a«  BeoepUm  and  Skigment  of  Workt  vf  Art,  Boi/gage,  Ac 

VEBOM  aud  to'ALi.  pabts  of  the  wobld, 

BxTUKir  tbeir  linoere  acknowledgmeiits  to 
the  Kobility  and  Gentry  for  the  liberal  pa- 
troBBge  hitherto  conferred  eo  them.  They 
hope,  by  THE  MODERATION  OF  THEIR 
CHABGES*  and  their  imremitting  care  in 
paaafaig  through  the  CUSTOM-HOUSE  Pro- 
per^ ocmflded  to  them,  to  m^t  a  oonti- 
nnanoe  of  the  favoiirs  they  have  heretofore 
epjoyed.  Their  establishment  compriaea  DRY 
AND  SPACIOUS  WAREHOUSES,  where 
Woriu  of  Art  and  all  deaoriptiona  of  Property 
can  be  kept  during  the  Owner'a  ebsNioe,  at 
most  moderate  rates  of  rent. 

J.  &R.  MK?.  nndertake  to  ezecnte  Oommia- 
aions  for  the  purchaae  of  Pictorea,  Statuary 
in  Marble  and  Alabaster,  Bronzes,  &c.,  being 
in  direct  oorresptnidence  with  Artists,  Agents, 
and  Bankers  throngfaoat  the  Continent. 


British  Artists  resident  abroad,  having 
occasion  to  send  home  their  works  for  Ex- 
hibition, or  to  ba  passed  by  the  Academy, 
will  find  it  advaatageona  to  address  them  to 
the  care  of  MeaaxB.  J.  &  R^  M'a.  whose 
appointment  enables  them  to  ofTer  eveiy 
Ikcility. 

Parties  fiavoniing  J.  &  R.  WC,  with  Ooa- 
slgnments  Are  requested  to  be  portlcalar 
in  having  the  m)»  of  Lading  sent  to  them 
DIRECT  by  poet,  and  also  to  forward  their 
Keys  with  the  Packages,  as  all  Goods  MUST 
BE  EXAMINED  hnmediately  on  arrivaL 

J.  &  R.  WC,  keep  Marsala  Winea  of  flraft 
qaality,  also  F«n1.  and  Meurs.  A.  Dbloaoo 
and  Son's  Shnrry  and  Amontillado  Wines ; 
and  are  goieral  Importers  of  fVench  and 
other  Foreign  Wines. 


Fackaaet  sent,  by  Steamtrt  or  ofheneitt,  to Souihamptan and Liverpoti,  aXsaattended  to;  bul 
au  Letten  ofAdmot  ami  BiUtcf  Lading  to  be  addretaei  to  1, 0xj>  Jswkt,  Lonsov. 


LIST  OF    DUTIES 

now  payable  in  LONDON. upon  THE  IMPOBTATION  OF  WOBKS  OF  ABT, 
CUBI03ITIES,  ETC.,   FROM  THE  CONTINENT. 

Tbe  foUowl&ir  JkxUelem  are  AXi&  TMMM  Ol"  All  TV. 


'Alabaster  and  Masblx. 

Ambkb,  Manufactures  of. 

Amohovixs. 

Agates  and  Cobkeliaks,  unset. 

Books,  of  editions  printed  prior  to  1801. 

finoNax  Works  of  Art  (antiques  and  ori- 

ginal  works  only). 
BvxuoN.  Coins  and  MMals  o(  all  kinds, 

and  battered  Plate. 
Camb&ics,  Lawns.  Damask  and  Diapers  of 

Linen,  or  Linen  and  Cotton. 
Cambos,  not  set. 
Cabkiaobs  of  all  sorts. 

CAiuKosjandHarpStrings,  silveredornot. 


Oasts  of  Busts,  Statues,  or  Figtires. 
Cobal,  whole,  polished,  unpolished,  and 

fragments. 
CoTTQir,  Manufttetures  of,  not  being  artietet 

wholly  or  in  part  made  \ip. 
Diamonds,  Emeralds,  Pearls,   and  other 

Precious  Stones,  not  set. 
Floweb  Boots.  ' 
Fbahxs  for  Pictures,  Prints,  Drawings, 

and  Mirrors. 
FuBs  and  Skins,  and  Articles  thereof. 
GuLss,  all  Plate,  Cast  or  Boiled  Glass, 
— — .  Paintings  on  Glass. 
•  Beads  and  Bogles.   " 


MTORArs  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


IBITB  ^aUBST  -Ol"  aOMWIMl—eotiitafetttfii. 


GuLfls  Bottles,  Wine  GlajlBee,  and'  Tumblers, 
and  all  white  flint  and  common  green- 
glass  goods,  tuft  being  cat  or  orna- 
mented. 

LiNEK  Manufactures,  not  being  artielet 
wholly  or  in  part  made  up. 

Lat  Figures,  imported  by  British  Artists 
for  their  own  use. 

Magna  Gxbcxjl  Ware^  and  Antique  Eaithen 
Yases. 

Mahttscbipts. 

Maps  and  CHAfi9M«^aad  parts  thereof. 

MiNBBAL  'Waters. 

MoDXLS  of  Cork  and  Wood. 

Olxvbs  and  Ottve  (Ml. 


pAumss'  OOL09B8,  Brushes,  Penoils,  and 
Crayons. 

Plants  and  Teebs,  ali^e. 

Sbbdb. 

Sausaobs. 

Spbcimbns  of  Natural  History,  Minerals, 

FossUs,  and  Ores. 
Stonb,  all  Seulpture  and  Articles  of  Stone, 

Alabaster,  and  Marble. 
Stjlphub  Impressions,  or  Calsts. 
Tblbscopes. 

TiLBB. 

Yasbs,  4?^clent,  not  of  Stone  or  MiMrble* 


On  tbe  fdllowinir  Artioles  tbe  Baty  Is  5  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 


Cashmbbb  Shawls,  and   all  Articles  of 

Goats*  Hair  or  Wool. 
Cotton  Articles,  wholly  or  in  part  made  up. 


Linen  Articles,  wholly  or  in  part  made  up. 
Woollen  Articles,    wholly    or   in    part 
made  up. 


On  tbe  following  Artiolee  tbe  Daty  le  lO  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 


Boxes  of  all  sorts. 

Eotptzan,  and  all  other  Antiquities. 
Exbboidbbt  and  Needlework. 
FuBNiruBB  of  all  kinds. 
Jxwbllbbt,  and  all  Jew^  set. 
Lack  made  by  hand. 


Mosaic,  small  Ornaments  for  Jewellery. 
Musical  Instruments,  exerting  Musical 

Boxes,  Brass  Instruments,  Pianos,  and 

Accordions. 
ScAauoLA  l^lee. 


ABaXTBBUSADB  WATBB  • 

BbADS  of  COBAL  .  . 

Crystal,  Jet,  and  Mock  Pearl 

Books,  of  editions  printed  in  and  since  1801 

—  imported  under  International  Treaties  of  Copyright 


the  gallon  £1 


the  lb, 

ditto 

the  cwt, 

ditto 


(Pirated  Editions  of  Eogluh  Worlu,  of  which  the  Copjnight  eidits  in  Eagland, 


totally  prohibited 

English,  reimported  (unless  declared  that  no  Drawback 


the  lb, 
ditto 


was  claimed  on  Export) 
B&odADx  of  Gold  and  Siltbk 

B&ONZX,        1 

Brass,  and  >  all  Manufaotares  Of 

COPPBB,        J 

Cabpbts  and  Bugs  (woollen)  •  •  »       the  eqwtre  yard 

Ck>BAL  Nboliobbs     •  .  •  •  •  .  ,        thelh, 

China,  Pobcelain,  and  Eabthxnwabx,  all     •  •  •the  cwt. 

Clocks,  not  exceeding  the  yalue  of  5«.  each    •  •  ^   the  dozen 

■  exceeding  5«.,  and  not  exceeding  the  yalue  of  12«.  td,  each  ditto 
.  exceeding  V2s,  6<{.,  and  not  exceeding  the  yalue  of  3<.  each  each 
exceeding  8^,  and  not  exceeding  the  yalue  of  10/.       •  ditto 

■  exceeding  IQl,  yalue  •  .  .  •  ditto 
CtoABS  and  Tobacco,  .  manufactured  (Slbs.  only  allowed  in  a 

passenger's  baggage,  and  b  per  cent,  additional)      •  .        theVi, 

ToBACoOi  unmanufi&etured  (with  5  per  cent.  adcUtional  on  the  Duty)    ditto 

^.B.— UanuukuflUAiirMf  Tobuoo  eaaiiot  be  imported  in  leM  mmntltf  thtn  800  Iba., 
orCigare  80  Uw.Ja  a  PaolBBge:  but  emaUiquaotitieeawaiUoiirad  for  Private  Use 
•ndadaimtioa^attd  pafUMot  ol»llMorta.  6d^p«  lb.  inadiiitieii  lottte  Duty.) 

the  lb, 

ditto 

the  gallon 

the  lb, 

thefiaek 

the  gallon 


0 
0 
1 
0 


0 
0 


0 

1 

0 

10 

15 


0 
5 


0 
6 
3 
0 
0 


0 


the  ewt,    0  10    0 


0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

0 
0 


0 

1 

10 

4 
8 
2 
4 
10 

0 
8 


CommanoKBBT,  Sweetmeats  and  Snccades      •  •  • 

CoBi>i>k^>s'<Ad  LiQtnuBS         •  •  .  •  • 

CtrBTASNs,  embroidered  on' MuBUn  or  Ket,  called  Swiss  Curtains 
TtAtT  IS  CoLooNB,  in  long  flasks  •  .  •  • 

. ■ ■  in  any  other  description  of  bottles    • 

TuymoB,  ArUfloisl»  the  cobio  foot  aspaoked ..  •  • 


B 


0 
0 
1 
0 
0 

1 

0 
2 


0 
0 
0 

1 

0 

0 

12 


6 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 

0 
0 


4 
9 

0 
0 
8 
0 
0 


HURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


60 

10 

0 

0 

s 

6 

1 

0 

0 

0 

1 

0 

0 

0 

8 

0 

0 

2 

1 

0 

0 

0 

0 

S 

s 

0 

0 

3 

0 

0 

1 

1 

0 

0 

1 

8 

0 

0 

S 

0 

s 

6 

0 

7 

0 

1 

10 

0 

15 

0 

0 

0 

9 

0 

0 

1 

5 

0 

0 

4 

0 

5 

6 

0 

15 

0 

BCecaukoaunrs  &ist  or  svrzas-coiitiniied. 

Olam,  Flint,  Cat,  Coloared,  and  Fancy  Ornamental  Glass,  of 

wbaterer  kind  •  •  •  .  ,      the  ewL 

QuntwBf  of  Leather  (and  i  per  oent.  additicmal)  •         the  donen  pair 

Laoqvxud  and  Japanned  Wares       •  ,      the  ewt. 

IfAocAnoif  I  and  Tsbmxcxlu  .....  ditto 

Naflib  Boat  ......  ditto 

FsaFmcnT  .  .  ,        the  lb. 

TmmrvuMD  Spikrs     •  •  ,  the  gallon 

PAran  aAKOXMOs,  Flock  Paper,  and  Paper  printed,  painted,  or  stained  the  lb. 
PiAjioFonns,  borixontal  grand  ....  each 

' upright  and  square      ....  ditto 

Plats,  of  Gold         .....  the  on.  troy 

— —  of  Silrer,  gilt  or  nngilt  ....  ditto 

Pnnrrs  and  Dbawixos,  single  or  bound,  plain  or  coloured        .         the  Ih. 
SiLX,  MiLLDnmT,  Turbans  or  Caps     .  •  .  ,  each 

— — — —  Hats  or  Bonnets     .  .  .  •  ditto 

__  Dresses      .....  ditto 

—  Hakgikos,  and  other  Manufactures  of  Silk         .        the  lOOl.  valtte 
——^  Tbltsts,  plain  or  figured  ....        the  lb. 

Tba  .......  ditto 

Tots  and  TxrurxBT  .....  the  etdne  foot 

WxxB  in  Casks  or  Bottles  (in  bottles  6  to  the  gal.,  ft  5  per  cent  add.)    the  gal. 
SraUTS  in  Cask  or  Bottle       .....  ditto 

No  GMk  (MB  be  imparted  of  loi  eontoiti  than  SI  Galkne. 

THEIR    PRINCIPAL   CORRESPONDENTS   ARE    AT 

CALAIS Messrs.  Ghastibs,  Most,  &  Yooub.    Messrs.  Isaac  Vitai.  ft  Fujb. 

BOULOGNE  S.  M...    Messrs. Chartibr,Mory, ft  Vogub.    Mr.H.SiRB.    Mr. G. Qdsttibb. 

,  Mr.  M.  Chbkub,  Packer,  Rue  Croix  Petite  Champs.  No.  24. 

PARIS J  Mr.  J.  Klbinfeldbr,  38,  Rue  Lafayette. 

1 M.  M.  HoFMANH,  68,  Rue  Hauteville. 

HAVRE Messrs.  P.  Dkvot  ft  Co. 

HONFLEGR Mr.  J.  Waghbr. 

V  k  Dci?TT  T  i?G  i  Messrs.  Hobacb  Bouchet  ft  Co.    Messrs.  Clattdk  Clum  ft  Co. 

MARSEILLES |  j^,  Phiuorbt,  8.  Rue  Suffren. 

BAONERES  DE  BI-| 

GORRE      (Hautes  V  Mr.  LioN  Gbruzbt,  Marble  Works. 

Pyrenees) i 

PAU Mr.  Mbrillok  Aivb. 

i>/\i>TMi<  k  rrv  S  ^^*  Lftov  Gbruzbt,  44.  All^  de  Toumy. 

iiUKDl!.AUJL ^  j|y  L^jj  Saksot,  FiLfif  Hdtel  des  Princes  et  de  la  PWx. 

GIBRALTAR Messrs.  Archboli^  Johnston,  &  Powbbs.    Messrs.  TvainKR  ft 

LISBON Mr.  Arthur  Van  Zbllbr,  I^nin.  &  Orient.  St.  Nav.  Co.'a 

oT^TTTT  T 1?  i  ^^*  JuuAN  B.  Williams,  British  ViceOonsnlate. 

BJiiVlli.l!i I  jy^n  jp^^.  ^j^  Baillt. 

MALAGA Mr.  Gborob  Hodgson. 

xTjnv  f  Messrs.  A.  Lacboix  &  Co.,  British  Consulate.    Mr.  T.  W.  How. 

^^^^ I  Mr.  Ch.  Giordan. 

a.xnat\  a  (  ^^ssrs.  Gibbs  &  Co.    Sig.  G.  Lolbo,  Croce  di  Malta. 

uiunuA I  ^r  Brown,  Jun.,  British  Vice-ConsuL    Gia  Vionolo  ft  Fiq« 

■i^TT  A  XT  ( Messrs.  Buffbt  &  Bbrdto,  Piaazale  di  S.  Sepolcro,  No.  3176. 

"■"^"^^^ {  Messrs.  Brambilla. 

CARRARA Slg.  F.  Bibnaiu£  Sculptor.    Mr.  Vincbnzo  Lmr,  Scalptca>. 

.Messrs.   W.   Macbban  ft  Co.     Messrs.  HENDBseoxr  Bi 
I     Messrs.  Thokas  Patb  ft  Sons.    Messrs.  Maquat,  Pi 

LEGHORN J     ftSmrTH.    Messrs.  Giaco.  Micali  ft  Fioo.  Sculptors  in  ^ 

I     and  Marble.    Mr.  M.  Ristori.    Mr.  JoexFH  Guavo.    M< 

(     G.  GALLIANI  ft  Co.     Mr.  XTUSBB  COTRBKAN. 

PISA Messrs.  Hugdbt  ft  Van  Lint,  Sculptors  in  Alabaster  and  Marblikl 

r  Messrs.  Emm le.  Fbnzi  ft  Co.   Messrs.  Plowdbn  ft  Jb'RKMCB. 
.Maquat  ft  Pakbnham.      Mr.  E.  Goodban.      Mr.  J 
Messrs.  Nbsti,  Ciardx,  ft  Co.     Mr.  Ant*>  di  Luigi  P« 
FT/^mrwrip  )    ^^'S'  ^T^^l  .  ?*'•  G^«t°-  Biabchini,  Mosaio  Work0r.  oi 

■-        "iORENCE ^     Sy^P*^'?/*^  Medid.     P.Bazzanti'&Fiq..  ScSStoa; 

virS'    Heirs  of  P.  L.PI8ANI.  Sculptor.  No.  l.suiPiSo!^- 


1 


SS;.^^;?^  PIcture-frMne  MakerS^  Via  del  fttlagC^U,  ( 
ULTEBRA Big.  ft»H>  flATT  .  w^^j^^g^  ^  Pifinii  i  f[|  FkiI. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


XoGRACKEN'S  LIST  OF  COBBXBPONSENTS-ooneimied. 

BOLOGNA Mr.  O.  B.  Renou.    Sig.  L.  Galu. 

ANCONA    Messrs.  Moobb»  Merkixkt,  ft  C!o. 

{Messrs.  Torlonia  ft  Go.     Messrs.  Fxksbork  ft  Co.    Messrs.  Mao 
BEAN  ft  Co.    Messrs.  Plowden,  Ch.olm.vi,kt.  ft  Co.    Messrs.  Pa- 
KBNHAM,  HooKBs,  ft  Co.     Mr.  Edwaju)  Tbkbbi.     Mr.  LUIQX 
BRANCHnri,  at  the  English  College. 

GIYITA  VEOCHIA .    Messrs.  Lows  Brothers,  British  Vice-Consulate.    Mr.  T.  Arata. 

NAPLES Messrs.  Iooitldsm  &  Co.    Messrs.  W.  J.  Turnsr  ft  Go. 

PALERMO Messrs.  Prior,  Tdrnbr,  ft  THOifAR. 

MESSINA Messrs.  Cailler  &  Co. 

CORFU Mr.  J.  W.  Taylor. 

ALEXANDRIA Messrs.  Briogs  ft  Co. 

CONSTANTINOPLE    Messrs.  C.  ft  E.  Grace.    Mr.  Edward  LAFOMtAiNE. 

t  Mr.  Emanuel  Zahuft.     Messrs.  Josh.  Daruanim  ft  Sons,  46.  Strada 
MALTA \     Levante,  Mosaic  Workers.    Mr.  Fortunato  Testa,  92,  Strada  S^ 

I     Luda.  Messrs.L.  Ved.DbCxsars&Fiou.  Mr.L.]r&ANCALANZA. 

SMYRNA Messrs.  Hanson  &  Co. 

BEYROUT Mr.  Henrt  Heald. 

ATHENS,    PIR^US    Mr.  J.  J.  Bdgherer. 

SYRA Mr.  Wilkinson,  British  Consul. 

I  Messrs.  Freres  Schielin. 
VENICE :  \  Messrs.  S.  ft  A.  Blukenthal  &  Co. 

I  Mr.  L.  Bovardi,  Campo  S.  Fantino,  No.  2000,  rosso. 

TRIESTE Messrs.  Moore  &  Co. 

OSTEND Messrs.  Bach  &  Co.    Mr.  R.  St.  Akour. 

GHENT Mr.  J.  Db  BtrrsBR,  Dealer  in  Antiquities,  Marcbe  an  Beurre,  21. 

BRUSSELS 

k  xrrwTTPP  S  Messrs.  F.  Mack  &  Co.,  Eipdorp,  No.  1748. 

A«  1  wiLtur \  Mr.  P.  Van  Zeebroeck,  Picture  Dealer,  &c..  Rue  des  Recollcts,  20Y6. 

rtnrr^v>T>n  a  v  i  Messrs.  Preston  &  Co.     Messrs.  S.  A.  Lbvino  &  Co. 

KOI  itMDAM I  Messrs.  Boutmt  &  Co.     Messrs.  C.  Hemkann  &  Co. 

oruruiKV  i  ■^^'  J*  M*  Farina,  vis-Ji-vis  la  Place  Juliers.    Messrs.  G»«.  Tilmes 

lA^iiuurv a ^     ^  ^     ^j.  j^u^jjT  Heikann,  29,  BIshofsgarteustrasse. 

MAYENCE Mr.G.L.KAT8EB,Expediteur.    Mr.  W.  Knussmann,  Cabinet  Maker. 

{Mr.  P.  A.  Taoch^s  Successor,  Glass  Manufacturer,  ZeiL 
Messrs.  Bino,  Jun.,  &  Co.     Mr.  F.  Bohlbr,  Zeii  D,  54. 
Mr.  G.  A.  ZiPF,  Ross  Markt 

HEIDELBERG Mr.  Ph.  Zimmermann.     Mr.  M.  Libber. 

MANNHEIM Mr.  Dinkelspiel.    Messrs.  Etssbn  &  Claub. 

I  Mr.  Ht.  Wimmbb,  Printseller,  Promenade  St^  No.  12.    Messrs.  Mat 

MUNICH <     &  Widvater,  Printsellers.     Messrs.  L.  Nbobiou  &  Co.     Heirs 

(    of  Seb.  Pichlbr. 
-tTTmnr^-Dvon.  i  Mr.  Paolo  Galimbbrti,  at  the  Red  Horse,  Dealer  in  Antiquities. 

NUBliJiBJSKU J  jjj.  jQgjj  CoNBAD  Cnopp,  Banker  and  Forwarding  Agent. 

FURTH Mr.  A.  Pickbrt. 

^  .  _  ^  (  Messrs.  Jean  Preibwbrk  &  Fiub.,  Mr.  Bisohopp  db  St.  Al&ak. 

tiASLit, j  Messrs.  ScHNBWUN  &  Co.    Mr.  Benoit  La  Rochb. 

BERNE Mr.  Albert  Trumpt. 

GENEVA Messrs.  Auo.  Snell  &  Strabsb. 

LAUSANNE Mr.  L.  Lonqchamps. 

INTERLACKEN Mr.  J.  Grossuann.     Mr.  Clbmbnt  Sesti. 

CONSTANCE \ 

SCHAFFH  AUSEN  . .  >  Messrs.  Zollikoffeb  &  Hoz. 

WALDSHUT > 

HAMBURG Messrs.ScHAAR&CLAU88.   Mr.G.F.RoDB. 

1^  A  riTTv-  i  Mr*  W.  HoFUANN,  Glass  Manufacturer,  Blauer  Stem. 

"^*^U*' t  Mr.  P.  CzBBMAK.  ditto.     Mr.  A.  V.  Lbbeda,  Gun  Maker. 

r^  A  T>T  CD  A  Tk  i  Mr.  Thomas  Wolf,  Glass  Manuftcturer« 

CARLSBAD ^  2^y  Qj^j^  Knoll,  au  Lion  Blanc 

MARIENBAD Mr.  J.  T.  Adleb,  Glass  Manufacturer. 

xrrvvns  A  5  Mr.  W.  Hofuann,  Glass  Manufacturer,  am  Li^eck,  No.  t$8. 

ViiiJJfr* A ^  jjy  jQg^  LOBMETR.  Glass  Manufsctiwer,  940,  KiimUmer  Strasse. 

{Messrs.  Schickler,  Brothers. 
Mr.  Lion  M.  Cohn,  Comm**.  Expedltenr. 
Messrs.  C.  Harsch  &  Co.,  Glass  Manufacturers,  67,  Unter  den  Linden. 
/  Messrs.  H.  W.  Basbenob  &  Co.     Mr.  C.  Tbiohbrt,  Royal  Poroe- 

DRESDEN <     lain  Manufactory  DepOt.     Mr.  J.  Kbeiss,  Glass  Manufacturer. 

(Madame  Helena  Wolfsohn,  SchOsseigasse,  No.  5. 
ST.  PETERSBURG  .    Thomson,  Bonab,  ft  Co. 
NEW  YORK Messrs.  Wilbur  &  Pbicb. 


ITORHArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERnSEB. 


FRANKFORT  O. 


9  • 


BING  JUN^  AND  CO 


(opposite  the  hotel  DE  BX78SIE,) 

MANUFACTOBT  OF  ARTICLES  III  STAG'S   HORN. 

DEPOT  OF  DRESDEN  CHINA. 

OOPT  OF   THE  STATUE  07  ABIABNE. 

*»♦  All  kinds  of  Pabisiak  Fanct  Articles. 


Messrs.  BING  Juk.  and  Co.  b^  respectfally  to  invite  the  Pablic  to  Tisit  their 
Establishment,  where  they  have  always  on  show,  and  for  sale,  a  most  extenaiTe 
Assortment  of  Articles  in  Stag's  Horn,  of  their  own  manofiictiire ;  ooosisting  of 
Brooches,  Ear-rings,  Bracelets,  Pen  and  Pencil  Holders,  Seals,  Inkstands,  Watdi- 
standi.  Snuff-boxes,  Cigar-boxes,  Whips,  Walking-sticks,  Knives,  Card-cases,  and 
every  description  of  article  for  the  Writing  and  Woik  Table,  besides  Vases  and 
other  ornamental  objects  too  various  to  be  here  enumerated. 

Messrs.  BiNG  have  also  the  finest  Copies,  both  in  Biscuit-China  and  Bronze,  of 
the  Statue  of  Ariadne,  the  chef-d'oeuvre  of  the  Sculptor  Dannecker,  of  wWA 
the  original  is  in  Bethman's  Museum  at  Frankfort  0.  M. 

Messrs.  BiNG  have  likewise  the  Sole  Depdt  in  Frankfort  of  the  PorceUdn  «£ 
the  Royal  Manufactory  of  Dresden ;  and  at  their  Establishment  may  be  seen  tin 
most  splendid  assortment  of  Figures  after  the  Ancient  Models,  ornamented  wHk. 
Lace- work  of  the  most  extraordinary  fineness ;  likewise  Dinner,  Dessert  and  Tm 
Services;  Plates,  Vases,  Candelabras,  Baskets,  &c.  &c.,  in  the  Antique  S^H 
ornamented  with  flowers  in  relief,  and  the  finest  paintings. 

Besides  the  above-named  objects,  they  have  a  superb  assortment  of  ri^fttH 
Bronzes,  Porcelain,  and  other  Fancy  Objects,  the  productions  of  Germany  FnuMh 
and  England. 

DEPOT  OF  THE  VERITABLE  EAU  DE  COLOGNE  OF  JEAK  MARIA 

FARINA,  OF  COLOGNE.  «^"«A 

IV  Their  Correspondents  in  London  are  J.  and  R.  M'Cracken,  7,  QM 


MDBRAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  « 


FRANKFORT  O.  M. 


P.  A.  TACCHI'S  SUCCESSOR, 

(LATE  FRANCIS  STEIGERWALD,) 
ZEIIi  0^  V«.  19^ 

B(D)HIEMIAH  MKfCY  GLASS  AHB  ClYOTAIL 

WAEIEH©lIJ§IEo 


p.  A.  TACCHPS  SUCCESSOR  begs  to  acquaint  the  Public  that 
he  has  become  the  Purchaser  of  Mr.  F.  Steigebwald's  Establish- 
ment in  this  Town,  for  the  Sale  of  Bohemian  Fancy  Gut  Glass  and 
Crystals. 

He  has  always  an  extensive  and  choice  Assortment  of  the  Kewest 
and  most  Elegant  Patterns  of 

ORNAMENTAL  OUT,  ENGBAVED,  GILT,  8b  PAINTED  GLASS, 

BOTH  WHITB  AND  COLOUBED, 

In  Dessert  Services,  Chandeliers,  Articles  for  the  Table  and  Toilet, 
and  every  possible  variety  of  objects  in  this  beautiful  branch  of  manu- 
facture. He  solicits,  and  will  endeavour  to  merit,  a  continuance  of 
the  favours  of  the  Public,  which  the  late  well-known  House  enjoyed 
in  an  eminent  degree  during  a  considerable  number  of  years. 

P.  A.  Tacohl's  Suocessob  has  Bbanch  Establishments  during  the 
Season  at 

WIESBADEN    AND    EMS, 

Where  will  always  be  found  Selections  of  the  newest  Articles  from  his 
principal  Establishment. 


His  Agents  in  England,  to  whom  he  undertakes  to  forward  Pur-  i 

chases  made  of  him,  are  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M*Cbacken,  7,  Old  Jewry,        _. 
London. 


10  MCBBAT'S  HANDBOOK  ADVXRTISEK. 


COLQQNE    O.    RHiNE. 


JOHN   MARIA   FARINA 

(OPfOfHX  THE  JUXieHV  ¥LLCSt$ 

PURVEYOa   TO    H.    M.    QUBBN    VUCTORIA ; 
TO  H.  If.  F.  W.  nL.  KING  OF  PRUSSIA;  THE  EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA; 

THE  EINa  OP'  HANOVER,  ETa  ETC., 

OM  XHX.. 

ONLY  GENUINE  EAU  DE  COLOGNE. 


THE  frequency  of  mistakes,  which  are  sometimes  accidental,  but  for  the  most 
part  the  result  of  decepUon  practised  by  interested  indivldTials,  induces  me  to  reqnest 
Che  attention  of  English  travellers  to  the  foUoviug.f  tatement  ;r>- 

Since  the  first  establishment  of  my  honse  in  1%09,  there  has  neyer.  been  any  paitzuer  in 
the  business  who  did  not  bear  the  name  of  FABmA,  nor  hhs  the  manufabtorer  of  4  vecoiid 
a«4;iche^»fr  qnaU((y  of  Ear  ni  Ooboeirs  e^ei  been .  attempted.-  Since  l$S8,:  .however, 
several  inhabitants  of  Cologne  have  entered  into  engagements  with  Italians  of  the,  name  of 
Farina,  and,  by  employing  that  name,  have  succeeded  to  a  very  great  extent  in  f<HBtlxig.att 
inferior  and  spurious  article  upon  the  Public. . 

But  they  have  hi  this  rivalry  in  trade  not  been  satisfied  with  the  mere  nsnrpation  of  taiy 
name;  the  concluding  phrase,  **oppotiU  the  •TtdicA**  •Pfoae^"  which  had- so  ioog-eadstad  B17- 
apedal  property,  was  not  allowed  to  remain  in  its  integrity.  To  deceive  and  lead  aatiay 
agftln  .^sa  of  thft  p^ibllo  wba  am  jiot  fully  .conversant  with  thfi  locallty^and  rirraimatMwefc 
the  competition  seized  hold  of  thft  word  **  cppotite,"  and  more  thAn- once  aettted  in  my 
immediate  neighbourhood,  that  they  migl^t  avail  themselves  to  the  full  extent  of  the  phrase 
**oppoiite  the  JtdiA'g  Plaot,"  When  tried  before  the  courts,  the  use  only  of  tbe  word 
*'  opj^tUe  "  was  forbidden,  which,,  however,  haa  been  ^supplied  by  the  word  **  <tf  "  or  **  «i«ar," 
with' the  addition  of  the  number  of  their  houses.*  It  is  true,  another  less  flatgraat,  but  not 
less  deceitfol  invention  was^  th«t  ^severai,  of-  my  'imitators  .established  th»  sUea^tMc 
manufactories  in  other  public  plaoQs  of  the  town,  to  enable  them  to  make  use  .of  the  phrase 

**  oppotUe Place,  or  Marlat;*  on  their  address  cards  or  labels,  speculating,  with  Tespm^ 

to  the  proper  iunm  *Vni^ff  en*  the  carcleaBness  or  fotrget^lness  «f  ikr  ooosomfiR.'-,  I  ihonai 
fore  beg  to  inform  all  strangers  visiting  Cplogite  that  my  establishment,^  which  haa  existed, 
since  1709,  is  exactly  opposite  the  Julich's  Place,  foiming  the  comer  of  the  two  si 
Unter  Goldschmidt  and  Oben  Harspforten,  No.  23;  and  that  it  may  be  the  more 
reoogpieed,  I  liave  put  up  the  aims  of  'Ewglimd,  Rnsida,.^  tea  hi-  the  fkvnt  x>C  toy  J 
By  calling  the  attention  of  the  public  to  this  noUoe,  I  hope  to  check  that  system. of  im} 
tion  which  has  been  so  long  practised  towards  foreigners  by  coachmen,  valeta-de-plaoe,  i 
others,  who  receive  bribes  twrn.  the  vendors  of  the  onaoy  spurfoua  compounds  aold  muler  1 
name. 

4.  new  proof  of  the  exe^enoe  of  icr  mannHscture has  been  put  b^ond. aU  doubt  J)|r-< 
fact  of  the  Jniy  of  the  Great  Exhibition  in  London  having  awarded  xx  the  Vxii/^ 
See  the  OflEtcial  Statement  in  No.  20,934,  page  6,  of  the '  rimes'  of  this  month;- 

CoLOOHB,  October.  1861.  J.  M.  FARINA, 

OpppiitQ  th«  JlOlAh'A  F|a«u 

■•i*  My  Agents  in  London  are  Messes.  J.  &  R,  M*Geackbn,  7,  0!d 
johom  orders  are  received  for  me.  ■  .,^ 


MDKaAT'g  HAlfDBQOR  ADVBBTISER. 


11 


D>RE:SDrEN.. 


HiGAZNE  OF  anhqhties  and  fine  arts. 
HElaENA  WOLFSOHlf,  nIe  MEXER, 

(SUCCESSOR  OF  L.  MEYER  AND  SONS,) 

S,  SCKI<OSSER^ASSK> 

Beos  respectfully  to  solicit  the  inspection  of  her  EstabBshment,  ^ei»  she  hMi 
always  on  show  and  for  sal6>aaiW6iiexteo8iitea8Mrta»oit>f  Old  Saxon  Chinay.Old 
Stvres.  and  Japan,  Antu|^vFQrniiiire^.Bi!0]UMS»c\,Qld£Laoey  sach  as  Points  d« 
Brozelles  and  d'Alen90Q»  Points  jd*  Youse^  Gni^efiK}.  &c.  Yenetian,  Ruby, 
and  Painted  Glass,  Rook'CrysUd,  .Itoi7<.W6rk;;L  EAaaniels^  Mosaic  Worlc^  Aonour, 
Gobelins  Tapestry,  Yaasi.^aukmiw^^it'XvamMt^  astidbBSk 

HEB:  OOWBiWIfmmBmwmbQSSai^AM^  ABB 

Messrs.  J.  &  Bt.BEHXEAGKSnVJi.OKIu  Jewry,  Xionddn. 


BOHEMIAN    GLASS    MANUFACTURER, 

TO  HIS  UAJESTT  THE  EMPEBOB  OF  AU8TBIA, 

Reqoqoiekds  his  great  assortment  of  Glass  Ware,  from  hi»own'Man«iiict0rie«  ilk 
Bohfesiia. ,  Tbe<  choicest  Airtioles  in  every  Colonr,  Sbap^^and  Pes^iption,  ^ar^  sol4» 
at  the  same  moderate  prices,  at  both  his  Establishments — 

At  Pragmey  Hotel  Btue  8tar|  at  Vteimaf  768»  Knreck. 

Agents-in-Londdn,  Mfaurs.  J.and  B;  M*GM.OKEN,  7;  Old-Jewry. 
Goods  fonoarded^irect  to  EngJand,  ,AmeriGa,.(Stc* 


HUCINTH  mem  AND  S0% 

Via  FerdiwxndOf  Mo,  1230b 

Mamifiactory,  of  Marble^  Alabaster,. ,  and, 
Sdaglfola  Tables,  and  DepOt  of  ol^ects  of 
Fine  Arts. 

Their  eztenidve  Show-rooms  are  always 
open  to  Yisitorsc 

THBXB  AQJOSTB  IN  VSOLASD  ABM 

1EE8SBS.  J.  AHD  B.  K^GBACKISN, 

It  Old  Jewry,  London, 


0ABXiS3^J7^ 


-■■i 


,      THOMAS  WOLF,, 

JUKDI'ACTUBBB.OF 

ORNAUOiTAL  GLASS .  WABESa 

THOWAs.'Mrour.beg*  to,ioJbnn..the  Yisbkora 
to  Carlsbad  that  at  his  EslabUahment  wilt  be 
found  the  jQoest  and  richest  Assortment  lOf 
the  Oystal  and  -Glass  Wlires  -of  Bohemia— 

especiaUy  TaUe  and  Bemrt 'Services  ?-  • 

all  at  reasonable  and  fixed  prices. 

COKXSSFONDESTS  Ilf  KK6I.AND: 

Messrs.  J.  8c  R.  M'GRAGKESr,  1,  OldJtiWrj, 


MDRRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 

FRANKFORT  O.    M. 


SIIBERNE  v'^''*''',''',^'^. 

bewilligt 


SENAT; 

der  freien  fym 


HEVAIUE. 


FBAxsniaJ 


FEIEDRICH   BOHLEB;^ 

MAiniFACTORT  OF  SUGHOBff, 

K«U  VTo.  M,  (next  Oota  to  tlie  Post-Offloe). 

FuKurniBB  or  bvbbt  PEScaimos,  as  Sofas,  Chairs,  Tables,  &c.  &c.  GbU 
DELiBae,  Table  and  Hand  Candlesticks,  Shooting-tackle,  InxBTAimB,  VagH 
knives.  Penholders,  Seals,  &c.  Enites,  BmiHO-WBipe,  Cigar-caseg  m 
Holders,  Pipes,  Mateh-boxea,  Porte-monnaies,  Gard-caaee,  Therm<HDatn 
OoBLBTS,  Candle-ecreens,  I^gurea  and  Groups  of  Animals  ex.ecuted  iM 
Biedinger  and  others.  Bboooheb,  Bracelets,  Earrings,  Shirt-pins,  Stud^  sj 
Bnttons.  Stao  add  Dbbb  HsAns  with  AnUers  attached  to  the  SknlL  M 
nigs  or  Foot-cloths  of  Skins  of  Wild  Animals  witii  Head  preserved. 

Orders  for  a  Complete  Set  or  for  any  quantity  of  Fc&nitdrr  t 
{M\)mptty  executed. 

m^    The  Agents  in  London  are  Messrs.  J.  and  B.  M^Backbd,  ■; 


^.  7,  Old  d<n|4j 


MUBRAT>S  HANDBOOK  ADTERTISER.  13 

FRANKFORT    O.    M. 

FRIEDEICH   BOHLEE, 

Zeil,  No.  54, 

dicht    neben  der     Post, 

Btemptl,  bewilligt  Tmn  Beut  dar  toian  SUdt,  Ilankftirt 


PBNDni.E8  (Ornamental  Clocks)  of  every  description,  Vases,  Goblets,  Abtiqcs 
and  MoDBBM  STATrBTTEs  and  Gbodps,  Oroupg  of  Animals,  Inkstands, 
Paper-weights,  &o,  &c.,  in  Bronze,  Cast  Iron,  Galvano-plastic,  Sk. 

CBowH'catNDELisBH  ;  Branch,  Table,  and  Hand  Candlesticks,  in  Bronze, 
&c. !  Lamps  of  every  description. 

FoBQEiiAiN  and  Britanma-meUl  Goods,  Liqueur-chests. 

Tbavelusg  DBBBBtKO-OASES,  BaJiroad  Compamons,  Ficnic-haskets,  Tn- 
yelling  Bags,  Brushes,  Combs. 

Work-tables  and  Boxes,  Tapestries,  Fans,  Ball-books,  Smelling-bottles, 
Opera-Glasses,  &o.  &c. 

Snperior  Copies  of  the  Abudne  by  Dannecker,  and  the  Ahazoh  by  Kiss. 

Genuine  Eau  de  Cologne  of  Jean  Maria  Farina,  apposite  the  JuliohspUtz. 

^e  Agoits  in  London  are  Messrs.  J.  and  B.  M'^backen,  7,  Old  Jewiy.  -^ 


14  HlTRRArS  HANDBOOK  ADTBBTIBfiB. 


VIENNA. 


Ji»li«Bi»B  IPFIilte  aad  Coloured  Crystal  Olass  IVareliaiise. 

JOSEPH  LOBMEYR, 

aiiASS     MANUITACT  UBS  B, 

No.  940,  KARNTHNERSTRASSE, 

BlEOS  to  inform  Visitors  to  VieoiiA  that  he  has  considterflibly  enlarged  his  Esta- 
blishment. The  most  complete  assortment  of  all  kinds  of  Bohemian  White  and 
Coloiisad- Crystal  Olass,  and  of  all  articles  in  this  branch  of  industry,  in  the 
newest  and  most  elegant  style,  is  always  on  hand.  The  rich  coUectioiis  of  all 
Articles  of  Luxury,  Tiz.  Table,  Dessert,  and  other  Services,  Vases,  CandeUbras, 
Lostres,  Looking-glasses,  Ac'  tec,  will,  he  feels  assured,  -flatstfy  every  visitor. 

The  prices  are  fixed  at  very  moderate  and  reasonable  charges. — The  English 
language  is  spoken. 

His  Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'Cbacken,  No.  7,  Old 
Jewry,  London,  will  execute  all  orders  with  the  greatest  care  and  attention. 


FLORENCE. 


PETER   MANNAIONI, 

BOXTLFTOB  JN  MABBTiTi  AND    ATiABASTBB,    AJBO} 
WOBKEB  IN  FIiOBBNTINB  KOSAIC, 

LUNQ*  AKNO.  NORTH  SIDE,  No.  2036a. 

A  vast  ooUectlon  of  objects  of  Art  of  every  kind  Is  to  be  seen  in  this  establishment,  sncfa  as 
Marble  and  Alabaster  Statues  and  Vases,  Ancient  and  Modem  Pictures,  Miniatm>es,  £ngxav- 
ings,  and  Drawings,  OttJects  of  Antiquity.  Bronzes,  &c  Artists'  Books  and  Florentine  Mo- 
saic Commissions  taken  fbr  Marble  Basts  and  Portrait  Painting,  and  generaUy  fbr  all 
kinds  of  Ardiitectaral  Worlcs,  as.  Monuments,  Chimney  Pieces,  Fur^ture,  &c 

Correspondents  in  London,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'GRACEEN,  f ,  Old  Jewry. 


FBANKFOBT    O.   M. 


MESSRS  LOHR  &  ALTEN, 


FBOBftOSTOBS  OF 


THE  ROMAN  EMPEROR  HOTEL, 

Beg  to  recommend  fh^r  House  to  English  TravellMs. 

This  liuge  and  well-situated  Establishment  is  conducted  under  the  immediate 
superintendence  of  the  Proprietors,  and  newly  furnished  with  every  comfort,  and 
a  new  splendid  Dining-room. 

The  **  BoMAN  Empe&or"  Is  often  honoured  by  Royal  Families  and  other  InA 
personages.    The  following  have  lately  honoured  this  Hotel —  ^^ 

H.M.  THE  KINO  AND  qUEES  OF  WURTEMBEBib. 
„     _  H.M.  THE  QUEEN  OF  HOLLAND. 

H.B.H.  THE  CROWN  PRINCE  AND  PRINCESS  OLGA  OF  WTrRTBMdB^ 
H.LH.  THE  ARCHDUKE  OF  AUSTRIA.    &c  &c  Ac  ^^' 

Table-d'hdte  at  1,    M.  SOkr.  Breakfast, 

9»       I*       6>    2lla  Tea, 

Bed  Rooms,  from  111.  to  Sll. 


MintBAT'S  HANDBOOK. ADVfiRTISEE.  15 


BtERLIN. 


C.  HAR&OH  &  GO., 

67,  Unter  den  Iduden, 

Beo  to  call  the  a1?tention  of  YlsitOBS  to  their  £xT£Ksr\rE  AssobtiiSnt  of 

BOHEMIAN,  BitTABIAN,  AND  SILESIAN  GLASS, 

OONSISTOTG  OF 

•       ARTICLES    OF    EVERY    DESCRIPTION, 

OF  THE  NEWEST  AND  MOST  ELEGANT  PATTERNS. 

Their  CorreBpondents  in  London  are  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M'Craceen,  7,  Old  Jewry. 

VENICE. 


■■•^i 


VENETIAN  GLASS  &  SHELL-WOEK  WAREHOUSE. 


GUISEPEE   BROCCHIERI, 

PIAZZA  DI  .SAN  MABGO,  N^).  131, 

Is  the  proprietor  of  the  oldest  established  and  largest  warehouse  in 
Venaee,  where*  visiters  to  this  r«K)wned  eity  will*  find  the  l)est  and  meet 
extensive  assortment  of  Venetian  Glass  Wares,  Beads  of  Enamel  and 
VenUurma^  (an  excln^ively  Venetian  production  of  rare  beauty),  Shell- 
Work,  Imitation  of  Antique  Glass,  Spun  Glass,  Models  of  G(»idcda8, 
OoTais,  Cameos,  Lava  ditto,  \Mosaics  of  every  variety  aztd  quality,  and, 
in  fact,  of  all  the  most  varied  fancy  works  of  Venetian  production. 

He  executes  Commissions  at  moderate  prices,  and  \nth^ti)e  greatest 
despatch  and  exactitude,  to  \^hich  he  invites  the  attention  of  his  kind 
customers  and  patrons. 

CorreBpondents  in  London,  Messrs.  J.  &  B,  M^Cbaceeit,  7,  Old  Jewry. 


Id  HURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


FLORENCE. 


MESSRS.  COSTA  &  CONTI, 

ARTISTS, 

ZTo.  1818.  VIA  DEI  BABBI  (Studio  on  the  First  Ploor). ' 

Melsni.  Costa  and  Contt  keep  the  largest  collection  in  Florence  of  original 
Andent  and  Modem  Pictures,  as  well  as  copies  of  all  the  most  celebrated  pinasters. 

N.6. — ^English  spoken. 

Correspondents  in  England,  'Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CRACKEN,  7,  Old  Jewry, 
L(»don. 

BERLIN. 

H.  KOBBE  &  CO., 

11,  UNTER  DEN  LINDEN, 

COMMISSION  AND  FOEWAEDING  AGENTS, 

Take  charge  of  consignments  of  Goods,  Luggage,  Works  of  Art,  &c.,  for  Travellers, 
and  forward  them  to  England,  or  other  parts  of  the  world,  at  moderate  chaxges. 

References :  Professor  Fischer,  M.A.,  Fellow  of  Clare  College,  St.  Andrew's,  N.B. ; 

Messrs.  Williams  and  Noroate,  14,  Henrietta  Street,  Covent  Garden, 

London,  and  20,  South  Frederick  Street,  Edinburgh. 

FOBEiaN  BOOKS. 


WILLIAMS  AND  N0R6ATE, 

IMPORTERS    OF    FOREIGN   BOOKS, 

B^  to  remind  Travellers  on  the  Continent  that  thejr  may  pnrchaae  Gemum  and 
French  Books  at  their  houses  in  London  and  in  Edinburgh  at  the  prices  at  vUA 
they  are  published  on  the  Continent,  thereby  saving  themselves  all  the  irotAU  mi 
expense  of  carrying  them  about  with  them,  or  of  having  them  sent  0T«r  i» 
England. 

GAXALOGUSS  of  the  different  portions  of  their  Stock— Theology,  Claadcii 
German,  French,  Linguistic,  Oriental,  Scientific,  Spanish,  Italian,  Maps,  EleQtte 
tary  Books — may  be  had  on  application. 

14,  Henrietta  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  and 

20,  Sooth  Fsedebick  Street,  Edinburgh.  *  *' 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  17 

■  ■        I     ^WM  n^^„  ■    I  I   I     ■   ■       ■      .       ■■    ■■■  ■    ■        ■  ■    ■    ■■■    ■■■■  —  ■     ■■  ■    ■      ■  ..I....   i»i.   ■     ■■  ^1      ■  ■       ■  ■  11     ■■    PI  ■■     Ml    ■ 

To  Visitors  to  the  Continent. 

LovDOS,  24th  Maach,  1859. 

OLIVIER  &  CARR, 

37,  FINSBURT  SQUARE,  LONDON, 

Have  the  honour  to  announce  that  they  have  this  day  entered  into 

PABTNEBSHIP  as 

COMMISSION    MERCHANTS    AND 
GENERAL    AGENTS. 


^i»H»i»^i^SiW»^w^^>^^^^^WI^ 


rpHElR  Business  will  comprise  the  Pubchase  and  Sale  on  Ck>M- 
-^  MISSION  of  all  kinds  of  Goods,  English  and  Foreign,  and  the 
Shipment  and  Reoeption  of  ^ebohandise,  Pebsonal  Effects,  and 
Peopbbtt  of  eveby  Debcbiption,  to  and  from  all  parts  of  the  World, 

Olivieb  &  Gabb  particularly  beg  to  offer  their  services  to  Noblemen 
AND  Gentlemen  tbayelling  on  the  Continent,  for  the  reception 
and  delivery  of  the  purchases  made  by  them  of  Works  of  Art  and  other 
property,  assuring  them  that  everything  intrusted  to  their  hands  will 
be  passed  through  the  Custom-house  with  the  utmost  care  and  atten- 
tion, under  their  own  superintendence,  and  that  their  Charges  will  be 
on  a  most  moderate  scale. 

Packages  shipped  to  Liverpool,  Southampton,  and  other  English 
Ports  will  equally  be  attended  to  by  0.  &  C,  they  having  facilities 
at  those  Ports  for  carefully  attending  to  such  business.  The  Bills  of 
Lading  and  Letters  of  Advice  of  such  Packages  should  be  addressed  to 
0.  &  0.  in  London,  and  the  Keys  of  all  locked  Packages  should  also  be 
sent  to  them. 

Their  Mr.  C.  H.  Olxvieb  having  been  established  at  the  above 
address  as  a  Commission  Merchant  for  nearly  thirty  years,  and  their 
Mr.  C.  Cabb  having  been  upwards  of  nineteen  years  in  the  house  of 
Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M*Cracken,  Genei-al  Agents,  No.  7,  Old  Jewry,  they 
can  offer  to  those  who  may  honour  them  with  their  commands  the 
results  of  long  experience  and  a  determination  to  render  themselves 
worthy  of  the  patronage  which  they  respectfully  solicit 


18 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


QRATZ,  STYRIA. 
ERZHERZOG  JOHANN 

Noted  fbr  fit  HEALTHY  BirUATION.  eom- 
mtDdt  A  BEAOTIFUL  VIEW  over  a  large 
tpaoe  of  cronnd  In  the  CENTRE  of  the  CITY. 
TheNEAREST  HOFEL  to  the  THEATRE 
and  the  SCH1X)SSBERO.  Femtllet  will  find 
In  this  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL  ell  the  COM- 
FORTS which  ENGLISH  FAMILIES  m> 
SELDOM  meet  with  on  the  Continent,  com- 
bined  with  MODERATE  GUARGE&  All 
kmgnagee  ipoken. 

FERDINAND  SONNHAMMER, 

Proprietor. 

CHAMOUNIX. 

Hdtels  de  Saussure  and  de  la 
Couronne^ 

Kept  by  Vve.  Tairroi  ft  Fils. 

TraTellera  will  find  here  all  the  comforts 
and  aooommodations  thej  will  require. 
ETerythlng  In  this  hotel  is  worthy  to  recall 
tiM  name  of  the  iUnatrioiui  and  learned  citizen , 
of  Genoa  to  whom  Chamounix  remains  for 
ever  indebted. 

The  Hotel  de  Sansrare  has  Jnst  been  erected 
In  the  mott  beautifnl  architectural  propor^ 
tlons,  both  external  and  internal.  Spacious 
private  drawing-rooms,  reading-rooms,  with 
balconies,  where  the  most  magnificent  pro- 
spect may  be  enjoyed. 

PARIS. 

WATCHMAKERS, 
BAXTDIN  BBOTHEB8, 

7,  RUE  DE  LA  PAIX, 

ManttfiActarers  of  Watches  and  Jewellery  at 
Geneva,  have  the  honour  to  inform  the  pub- 
lic in  general,  that  they  have  opened  a  house 
at  Paris  for  the  retail  sale  of  their  manufao 
tures.  Visitors  will  find  in  this  esublish- 
ment  a  larg^e  assortment  of  Watches  of  all 
descriptions,  ^as  also  a  choice  selection  of 
Jewellery. 

GENEVA. 

WATCHMAKERS, 
BAXTDIN  BROTHERS, 

GRAND  QUAI, 

Fading  th€  Jcardin  Anglais, 

Manufacturers  of  the  celebrated  and  best  de- 
scription of  Geneva  Watches,  Jewellery,  Sec, 
respectfully  invite  the  attention  of  travellers 
to  their  establishment,  at  which  they  will 
^flnd  every  variety  of  Watches,  from  the  most 
diminutive  to  the  best  of  Chronometers,  all 
highly  perfected  and  warranted.  The  saux 
^ousR  or  Pabis,  7,  Rux  ns  jjl.  Paix. 


ROME. 

MR.  L.  FABRI, 

VIA   CAPO   US  CASEp  MO.  3, 

PrintseUer  &  Forwarding  Agent, 

L.  Fabrt  undertakes  to  send  Works  of 
Art,  Statues,  Furniture,  &c.,  to  all  parts 
of  the  world,  and  particularly  to  England 
and  America.  His  chaises  are  very 
moderate,  and  at  fixed  prices,  the  tariff 
of  which  may  be  seen  at  his  office,  so 
that  parties  having  various  articles  to 
send  home  can  know  precisely  what  the 
expenses  will  be,  and  do  not  pay  but 
when  the  packages  reach  their  destination. 

This  system  is  very  useful  and  advan- 
tageous, because  purchasei's  can  calcu- 
late the  exact  amount  that  the  objects 
will  cost  when  they  reach  home. 

L.  F.  also  takes  charge  of  the  making 
of  the  cases,  packing,  permission  firom 
the  o6Scers  of  the  fine  arts  for  exporta- 
tion, passing  through  the  custom-house, 
insurance,  &c.,  and  has  skille(^  Roman 
workmen  to  pack  up  statues  and  other 
brittle  articles. 

ROME. 
L.    FABEI, 

VIA  CAPO  LE  CASE,  No.  3, . 

Magariiie  of  Anoieiit  and   Kodem 
Engrayingt,  Piotures,  ftc., 

Existing  since  45  years.     He  has  a  col- 
lection of  Prints  by  Morghen,  Toschi, 
and   other    classical    engravers,  proofii 
before   letters  and   dedication  ;    **  The 
Violin     Player,"   by  Raffaele  ;    "  The 
Hope,"  by  Guido ;  the  celebrated  worb 
by  Pinelli,  that  is,  his  Roman  and  Grade 
History,    Dante,    Tasso,    Ariosto, 
This  is  the  only  magazine    in    B 
where  every  sort  of  rare  ancient 
modem  engravings  can  be  found. 

L.  F.  undertakes  to  execute  coi 
sions  for  the  purchase  of  those  that 
requested,  havfbg  con*espondents  in. 
the  principal  towns  of  Europe. 

L.    FABRfs    Collection    of 
Pictures  is  composed  of  classical 
of  the  Italian  School,  among  which  is  «. 
very  distinguished  original  by  Rafitedli 
on  wood,  a  portrait  of  Cardinal.  JMI*'' 
Monte. 


MCERAT-S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 

J.  W.  &  T.  AILEJV, 

18    AND    22,    STRAND,   LONDON. 
PATENT  PORTMANTEAU  MANUFACTURERS. 


ALLEN'S  PATENT  POETMANTEAUS 

and  TRAVELLING  BAQS,  witli  Square  OpeDinn;  Ladie^ 
Dita»  Ti-unks,  Dressing  B^,  with  silier  fittings;  De- 
■patch  Boxes,  Writing  and  Dressing  Cases,  and  500  other 
Articles,  for  home  or  continentid  travelling,  illnstrated  in 
their  new  Catalogne  for  1859.     B7  post  for  two  stamps. 


,  W.  &  T,  ALLEN,  Manu&ctarers  of  Officers'  Bairaolc  Fur- 
re,  and  Hilitary  Outfitters  for  the  Camp  or  Field  (see  aeparata 
tlogas},  18  and  SO,  Btrond,  lK>ndon.  ^  . 


20  )IimRA.T'S  EAKDBOOK  ADVERTISEB. 

MUNICH. 

THi!  FOtR  SGASOIVS  HOT£t, 

No.  2,  MAXIMILIANS  STEASSE. 

%*  ThA  MAXimlUan  dtreet,  which  la  now  being  bnilt  at  the  ezpiMS  commands  of  His 
MiO^ty  the  King  of  Bavaria,  will  after  its  completloii  he  one  of  the  finest  stieets  ki  Ger- 
many, both  for  its  magnifloent  and  grsnd  Buildings,  ss  well  as  for  its  beautifnl  ornamental 
Fromensdes. 

AUGUST  SCHIMON,  Proprietor. 


fpHIS  spacious  new  Hotel,  situated  in  the  most  healthy  part  of  the 
town,  has  heen  recently  constructed  and  elegantly  furnished  in  the 
newest  and  most  fashionahle  style  by  the  present  proprietor,  who  will 
jipare  no  effort  to  promote  the  comforts  and  satisfaction  of  those  who 
may  do  him  the  honour  of  frequenting  his  Hotel.  The  Hotel  is  ^tn- 
ftted  in  the  most  central  part  of  the  town,  and  near  to  the  Koyal  Palace, 
the  Boyal  Theatres,  imd  the  Post-office.  The  Hotel  contains  120  large 
and  small  A^partments,  all  of  them  having  the  vieW  of  the  above-men- 
tioned handsome  Street  on  the  south  side ;  together  with  two  large 
IMning  Saloons,  Coffee-rooms,  Smoking-rooms,  and  Billiard  Tabled* 

The  lovers  of  News  viriU  find  at  the  Eeading-rooms  Ibelonging  to  the 
Hotel  (where  smoking  is  not  permitted)  the  best  German,  French, 
Bnglish,  American,  and  Italian  Newspapers  and  Periodical  Liteiatuze. 


i^tm 


HOT  AND    COLD    BATHS  ALWAYS   I^EADV. 

ELEGANT  CARRIAGES  ON  HIRE. 
An  Omnibus  from  the  Hotel  attends  the  arri'»al  of  the  Trains. 
JL  Vised  Glwrffe  tar  iLttendance. 
The  Hotel  was  opened  on  the  1st  of  July,  18^* 


MURRATS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER, 


21 


HANDSOME  BRASS  AND  IBON  BEDSTEADS. 


aEAL  and  SON'S  SHOW  ROOMS  contain  a  large  assortment  of  Brass 
Bedsteads,  suitable  both  for  Home  use  and  for  Tropical  Climates ;  handsome  Jioa  Bedsteads 
ith  Brass  Mountings  and  elegantly  Japanned ;  plain  Iron  Bedsteads  for  Servants;  every  description 
r  Wooden  Bedstead  that  is  manufactured,  in  Mahogany,  Birch,  Walnut  Tree  Woods,  Polished  Deal 
nd  Japanned;  all  fitted  with  Bedding  and  Furniture  complete,  as  well  as  every  description  of  Bed- 
x>m  Furniture. 


CONTAINS  DESIGNS  AND  PRICES  OF  150  DIFFERENT  ARTICLES 

OF  BEDROOM  FURNITURE,  AS  WELL  AS  OF 

100  BEDSTEADS,  AND  PRICES  OF  EVERY 

DESCRIPTION  OF  BEDDING, 

SENT  FREE  BY  POST. 

KlSAXi  Air]»   liOlir, 

BEDSTEAD,  BEDDING,  AND  BEDROOM 
FURNITURE  MANUFACTURERS, 

196,  TOTTEKHAH  COURT  BOAD, 
jjOJsmojsr. 


lATIBESSES,  WARRAIiTED  NOT  TO  MAR  EOLIOW  IN  THE  MIDDIE. 

SEAL  and  SON  have  Patented  an  improvement  in  the  manufacture  of 
Mattresses,  which  prevents  the  material  felting  into  a  mass,  as  it  does  in  all  Mattresses  made 
1  the  ordinary  way.  The  Patent  Mattresses  are  made  of  the  very  best  Horsehair  only,  are  rather 
bicker  than  nsual,  and  the  Prices  are  but  a  trifle  higher  than  other  good  Mattresses. 


23 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


BOOKS  FOB  TBAYELLEBS, 


HISTOKY  of  the  KING- 
DOM of  NAPLES,  1734-1825.  By 
General  Pietbo  Colletta.  Trans- 
Jated  from  the  Italian  by  S.  Horner. 

With    a    SUPPLEMENTART    CHAPTER, 

1825-1856.     2  rols.  Svo.,  price  1/.  4s, 

*  The  Histonr  of  Naples,  written  by  Gene- 
ral Colletta,  has  long  been  oonaldered  an 
excellent  book;  and  thia  traodatlon  is  re- 
markably well  execaied.— well  out  of  the 
Italian  and  well  Into  the  English.  Alto- 
gether we  hare  here  an  acceptaUe  publicap 
tloii»  and  well-timed.'— i>aay  Sews, 

LETTERS  from  CANNES 

and  NICE.  By  Miss  Brewster.  With 
10  Illustrations  byaLADT.  Handsome 
8to.  cloth  extra,  price  12«. 

*  The  visitor  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Cannes 
will  not  find  a  better  guide.'— J^zaminer. 

EGYPT  :  Its  Climate,  Cha- 
racter, and  Resoarces  as  a  Winter  Resort. 
With  an  Appendix  of  Meteorological 
Notes.  By  A.  Henry  Rhind,  F.S.A., 
&c.     Small  8vo.,  cloth,  price  Ss. 

*  May  be  well  recommended  to  those  who, 
afBicted  by  disease,  but  blessed  with  money, 
can  afford  a  voyage  to  the  Nile.'— Xanoet. 

LORENZO   BENONI;  or, 

Passages  in  the  Life  of  an  Italian.  Illus- 
trated by  J.  B.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth 
gilt,  5s» 

Cheap  Edition,  crown  Svo.,  2s.  6d, 

*  Worthy  to  be  ranked  among  contemporary 
works  whose  season  is  the  century  in  whidb 
their  authors  live.' — Examiner, 

By  the  same  AuthoTf 

DOCTOR    ANTONIO;    a 

Tale.     Crown  Svo. ,  doth  extra,  price  45. 
Cheap  Edition,  8th  Thousand,  boards, 

price  2s.  6d, 

*  One  of  the  most  genuinely  successful  fic- 
tions we  have  read  for  a  long  time  past'- 
Leader. 

THE  EXILES  of  ITALY. 

By  C.  G.  H.,  author  of  *  The  Curate 
of  Lin  wood,'  &c.     Crown  8vo.,  cloth, 
,  price  Is.  6d. 

*  A  pious  gentle  spirit  runs  through  the 
book,  and  there  is  a  studious  abstinence  Arom 
exaggeration  of  either  fact  or  sentiment.' — 
Athenamm, 


'<Vnburgh:  T.  CONSTABLE  and  CO. 

ondon:  HAMILTON,  ADAMS.  &  CO.     | 


OXFORD  Ins  on  the  road  to  Bath, 
^  Bristol.  Clifton,  and  the  West  of  Eng- 
land; to  Leamington,  Warwick,  Kenilworth, 
Stranord-on-Avon,  Birmingham.  Worcester, 
Wolverhampton,  Chester,  IManchester,  Liver- 
pool, and  the  North;  to  CheltenluaD,  Glou- 
cester, and  South  Wales.  In  ita  neighbour- 
hood are  Blenheim,  Kuneham,  Cumnor,  and 
other  plaoea  of  interest. 

VISITORS   TO  OXFORD 

(a  oentrsl  point  for  Railway  Travellers) 
are  invited  to  insj[>ect 

SPIERS  AND   SON'S 

ESTA6liISHTVrF.TTT8, 

102  db  103,  High  St.,  45  A  46.  Oommarket  St., 
and  24.  JfewinnhaU  St., 

Where  will  be  found  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  varied  Stocks  in  the  kingdom  of 

nSBFUL  AKD  OBNAMENTAI.  IfANVFACTURES, 

Suitable  for  Presents,  or  for  Bemembraoces 
of  Oxford. 
At  the  Great  Exhibition  in  London,  of 
IR5I,  and  in  Paris,  of  1855,  'Honourable 
Mention'  was  awarded  to  their  ornamental 
Manufactures ;  and  aC  the  New  York  Exhi- 
bition of  1853,  the  *  Prize  Medal.' 

MALTA. 

STRADA  FORNI. 

MORRELUS  HOTEL^ 

THE  OLDEST  ESTABLISHED 
FAMILY  HOTEL. 

Containing  Large  and  Small  Apartm^ta 
for  Families  ;  also  excellent  Sleeping 
Rooms  for  Single  Gentlemen,  with  the 
use  of  a  good  Coffee  Room. 

TA-RT.-F.  D'HOTE. 

Wann,  Cold,  and  Shower  Bath& 

N.B. — Country  Residences  for  Fcanilies, 

-C1BENCH    IH    ONE    VOLimS.— 

*  430  8vo.  pages.  7».— HA  VET'S  COM- 
PLETK  FRENCH  CLASS  BOOK  is  the  only 
work  required  by  beginners  and  advanced 
pupils,  as  it  contains  all  that  is  necesaary  for 
the  acquirement  of  the  French  langnageu 

«  M.  Havet's  popular  "Class  Book"  is  by 
tax  the  most  solid  and  practical  jNruductioii 
of  the  kind.  In  addition  to  a  Header  and 
Dictionary,  it  contains  the  rudiments,  the 
usual  practice,  and  the  niceties  of  the  lan- 
guage, all  in  one  volume,  lucidly  arruiged, 
and  set  forth  with  an  intimate  knowledge  of 
what  is  easy  and  what  Is  dUBcolt  to  EngUith 
students  of  French.* — TkeContmental  Reww, 

HAVBT'S  Livre  du  Mattie ;  or  Key.  with 
useful  Hints,  5s.  6d. 

London :  DUL AU  and  CO. ;  W.  ALLAK  t 
SIMPKIN  and  CO. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


23 


PASSPORT    AGENCY    OFFICE, 

liOnSTDON,  59,  FLEET  STREET,  E.  C. 

p  ESIDENTS  in  any  part  of  the  United 

^^  Kingdom  or  London,  who  desire  to 

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or  otherwise*   to   Mr.  W,  J.  ADAMS 

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Chiide  Office),  59*  Fleet  Street,  as  above. 

Country  Residents,  by  this  arrangement,  are  saved  the  trouble  of  coming 
to  London  about  their  Passport,  as  it  can  be  forwarded  to  them  by  Poet 
(en  Regie), 

ForfuUjparUcidart,  tee  Bradshau/t  Continental  Ouide,  pages  zxix  to  xxxiv. 


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&c.  &c. 


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THE  UTEST  EDITIONS  OF  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOKS. 

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and  Ireland,  with  Map,  &c.    Ditto  of  France,  Belgium,  Switzerland,  Paris, 

India,  London,  &c. 
Dr.  Lee*s  Continental  Books  on  Climates,  Scenery,  and  Remedial  Resources ; 

Notes  on  Spain,  its  Climate,  &c. ;  Nice  and  its  Climate. 
Adams's  Guide  to  the  Watering-places  of  England,  2s. 

Channel  Islands,  1«. 

'       English  Lakes,  U.  6rf. 


Addresses  of  Expbbienced  Coubiebs  mat  be  had  on  Appucation  to 
W.  J.  ADAMS  (Bradahaw'B  British  and  Continental  Onide  Offioe), 

LONDON,  59,  FLEET  STREET,  E.G. 


34  MURRAT^S  HANDBOOK  ADYERTISEB. 

PELICAN  LIFE  INSURANCE  COMPANY.    Established 

in  1797.    70,  Lombard  Street^  City,  and  67.  Charing  Gross,  Westxoinater. 

Henry  Laooelot  Holland,  Esq. 
Wm.  James  Lancaster,  Esq. 
John  Lubbodc,  E8q.,^ja.S. 
Benjamin  Siaw.  Esq. 
Mattbew  Whiting.  Esq. 
M.  Wy  viU,  Jan..  Esq..  M.F. 


Octavlas  E.  Coope.  Esq. 
WillUim  Cotton,  D.CJI,  FJLB. 
John  Davis,  Esq. 
William  Walter  PuUer,  Esq. 
Jaa.  A.  Gordon,  M.D.,  F.RJ3. 
Kirkman  D.  Hodgsoii,  Esq.,  M.P. 


This  Company  ofTers  complete  secarity.  Moderate  Bates  of  Premium,  with  P«rticipcitS<Bi 
in  Four-fifths,  or  Ei^ty  per  cent.,  of  the  Profits. 

Low  Rates  without  Parttcipation  in  Profits. 

Loans  in  connection  with  Life  Assurance,  on  a^roved  seeority,  in  Sams  of  not  less  than  5001. 

Bonos  of  1861.— All  Policies  eifected  prior  to  the  1st  July,  1861,  on  the  Bonos  Scale  of 
PMniom,  will  participate  in  the  next  division  of  Profits. 

ROBERT  TUCKER,  Becretary  and  Actuary, 

THE  LONDON  and  WESTMINSTER  BANK  issues  Circular  Notes  of  £10 
each,  payable  at  every  impwtant  place  in  Europe.  These  Notes  are  issued  without 
charge,  and  they  are  cadied  abroad  free  of  commission.  The  Bank  also  issues,  free  of  chaige. 
Letters  of  Credit  on  all  the  principal  cities  and  towns  in  Europe.  The  Letters  of  Credit 
are  issued  only  at  the  head  office,  in  Lothbury.  The  Circular  Notes  may  be  obtained  at  the 
hsad  ofBoe,  in  Lothbury,  or  at  any  of  the  Bnmchea,  viz.:— 

Westminster  Brandi,  1,  St.  James's  Squsie. 
Bloomsbnry        „       214,  High  Holbom. 
*  Southward         „       3,  Wellington  Street,  Borough. 

Eastern  „       87,  High  Street,  Whitechapel. 

Harylebone        „       4.  Stratford  Place,  Oxford  Street. 
Temple  Bar       ^       3l7,  Strand. 

May  1«  1859.  J.  W.  6ILBABT,  General  Manager. 

STEAM  COHMUMCATION  BETWEEN  HULL  AND  HAHBIIRe. 

Selen  M'Oregrory  Enowies;  Q^neen  of  Sootlandf  Foster;  or  Xor4 
CardtffMlf  Atkinson ;  are  intended  to  leave  the  Humber  Dock  for  Hamburg  every 
Saturday  evening  after  arrival  of  the  9*30  p.m.  Train,  one  of  these  Boats  retumin^-  from 
Hambnns  every  Saturday  night  Particulars  as  to  the  hour  of  sailing  from  HambuTB  niay 
be  learned  from  Kirsten  and  Co.,  Admiral! tat  Strasse. 

PASSAGE  MONEY.— 2L  First  Cabin;  Return  Ticket,  3Z.  Second  Cabin.  IZ.;  Hetuni 
Ticket,  ll.  lot. ;  allowing  four  weeks  on  the  Continent    Average  Passage,  38  hoora. 

HULL  AND  DUNKIRK. 

Harleqniiiv  Captain  Lancaster,  for  DUNKIRK,  eveiy  Wednesday,  and  DUNKIRK  for 
HULL  every  Saturday,  according  to  Tide. 

PASSAGE  MONEY 15<.  First  Cabin;  Return  Ticket   II.  2t.  6d.    Average  Passage. 

20  hours.  The  very  best  aooommodation  for  Passez^rs,  Carriages,  and  Horses.  Dunkirk 
Agents.  C.  Boubdoh  and  Co.  For  further  information,  i^ply  to  the  Agents,  LOFTHOUSE, 
GLOVER,  and  CO.— Hull.  1st  April,  1859. 


Everything  for  the  Tourist. 


DRESSING-CASES.  —  At  MECHI  and 
BAZIN'S  Establishments,  112,  Regent  Street, 
4,  Leadenhall  Street  and  Crystal  Palace,  are 
EXHIBITED  the  FINEST  SPECIMENS  of 
BRITISH  MANUFACTURES,  in  Dressing 
Cases.  Work  Boxes.  Writing  Cases.  Dressing 
Bags,  and  other  articles  of  utility  or  luxury, 
suitable  for  presentation.  A  separate  De- 
partment for  Papier  MAche  Manuractures  and 
Bagatelle  Tables.  Table  Cutlery.  Razors,  Scis^ 
sors,  Pen-knives.  Strops.  Paste.  &c.  Shipping 
^>Mers  executed.     Au  extensive  assortment  | 

nperior  Hair  and  other  Toilet  Blushes.      1  STAAJm,   KOVSOV 


THRESHER'S 


COLOURED  KASHMIR  ANB 
FLANNEL  SHIRTS. 

SOLD  ONLY  BY 

THBESHEB    Ss    QI^WETY, 

Next  Door  to  SOMERSET  HOUSE, 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  25 


ROYAL  INSURANCE  COMPANY, 

BOTAL  INSURANCE  BUILDINGS, 
North  Jf9k»  flMveely  wnd  ]»ale  Street,  I^lreipeelt  and 

29,  LOMBAKD  STREET,  LONDON,  E.G. 
Capital— ig2,000,000  in  100^000  Shares  of  ^£20  each. 


The  following  Details  will  show  the  RAPID  PROGRESS  and  POSITION 

of  the  COMPANY  :— 

LIFE  DEPARTMENT. 

Net  NEW  LIFE  BUSINESS,  after  deductins:  Guarantees: 

No.  of  Policies.       Sam  Assured.  Premiums. 

To  Dec.  1845        33        £  2S,849    0    0  £     748    10    0    for  6  Months. 

„      1849      183            88,981  12    0  2,726     14    1 

„      1853      453           178,928  18  10  5,099    19  10 

„      1857      756           829,880  18    0  10,270      8     6 

Showing  that  the  Premiums  on  TSTEW  Policies  alone  in  18£^  were  nearly 
500  per  ioeiit.  more  than  those  for  1847. 

FIRE  DEPARTMENT. 

The  Receipt  of  FIRE  PREMIUMS  for  the  last  ten  years  has  been  as  follows  : 

1848,  £81,846.         1850,  £44,027.         1852,  £76,925.         1854,  £128,459. 
1856,  £151,788.         Whilst  last  year  (1858)  they  were  £195,000. 

Total  Revenue,  1858,  all  Sources,  £285,000.  Increase  on  ONE  YEAR  alone, 
£25,000.  Funds  in  hand  to  meet  any  claims,  over  £700,000.  Placing  the 
Company  among  the  very  largest  Offices  in  the  Kingdom. 


Extracts  from  Newspapers  on  the  Bemarkable  Sueoess  of  the  Company, 

Times. — ^The  City  article  of  the  London  Titnes  of  the  24th  July,  1856,  states  that  the 
transactions  of  the  Royal  Insurance  Company  appear  to  have  been  of  a  perfiBiOtly 
satlsflaotory  cbaraoter. 

Article  in  the  2%me«  of  the  9th  Aoffust,  ISSS.—'  The  Report  of  the  Directors  adopted  at 
the  annual  meeting  of  this  Company,  held  on  Friday,  at  Liverpool,  stated  that  in  1855  the 
Premiums  in  the  Fire  Department  were  130,0602. ;  in  1856, 151,733Z. ;  and  in  1857,  l'75,028l. 
The  net  Fire  Revenue  of  the  London  Branch  had  Increased  near^  30  per  cent  In  tibe  year.' 

j^aUy  News  (London),  August  11, 1858. — '  In  the  life  business  the  premiums  fh>m  new 
Insurances  in  1857  were  19.2701.,  being  nearly  double  those  of  two  years  ago.  A  divid^ad 
and  bonus  of  Bs.  per  share  were  declared,  being  about  15  per  cent,  on  the  original  amount  of  . 
the  shares.  Satisfaction  is  expressed  at  the  prudence  displayed  by  the  directors  and  manager 
In  dedloatlngr  tbe  largrer  proportion  of  tbe  year's  net  profits  to 
tbe  angrmontation  of  tbe  reserved  Aind.  The  report  was  adopted  unani- 
mously.' 

Qommerdal  DaHy  List  (London),  Augost  13, 1858. — '  Rotai.  Insuravcs  GoMPA]nr.^Th6 
encouraging  results  of  the  past  year's  business,  as  Uiey  are  evidenced  in  the  report  of  this 
flourishing  Company,  prove  that  they  have  been  developed  tbrouflTb  tbe  pmdent 

and  economical  management  of  a  larve  oapitalt  and  the  untiring  and 

eneigetic  exertions  of  the  directors.' 

Idverpool  Mail,  August  7, 1858. — '  It  is  indebted  for  its  proud  position  to  the  prudence  of 
Its  management  The  funds  of  the  Company  are  so  ample  as  not  only  to  place  its  stability 
beyond  doubt,  but  to  remove  it  altogether  beyond  the  temptation  to  be  mean.    Swery- '  ! 

tbtniT  about  it  bears  tbe  Impress  of  bononr,  stability,  and  irood 
Diitby  and  we  rejoice  to  see  that  the  public  increasingly  appreciate  it'  i 

PEBCX  M.  DOVE,  Actua»t  and  Manaoer^ 


26  MCTRRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


Qire  perfect  freedom  from  Coogbs  in  Ten  Minutes,  and  instant  relief  and  a  rapid  cure  of 
Asthma  and  Gonsamption,  Ooogju,  Colds,  and  all  Disorders  of  the  Breath  and  Lungs. 

Another  Cjot  of  an  8  Tears'  ABthmatie  CSongh. 

To  Mr.  G.  Bountiir,  Chemist,  Lawrence  Kirlc.  January  3)st,  1859. 
*'8tr, — ^For  these  last  eight  years  i  have  been  troubled  with  a  very  severe  cough,  aoocnn- 

Cied  with  tightness  in  the  chest  and  acaroeness  of  breathing.  During  that  long  period  I 
tried  many  kinds  of  medicines  from  medical  men  and  others,  but  to  littie  effect,  until 
lately  I  was  induced  to  try  Dr.  Locock's  Pulmonic  Wafers ;  the  first  day  I  had  only-  taken 
six  of  these  Invaluable  Wafers  when  I  found  great  relief.  I  continued  taking  them  till  I  had 
finished  a  U.  i^d.  box  and  began  a  2t.  94.  one,  when  I  am  glad  to  state  I  now  feel  myself 
oompteiely  cured.'    Signed,  JAMES  KENNEDY,  Pensioner,  Garvock  SL,  Lawrence  EOrk. 

Ike  partieuXart  iff  monjf  kundredt  if  Cvurtz  may  be  had  from  every  Agent  throughout  the 

Kingdom, 

To  Slnrers  and  Fnblic  Speakers  they  are  invaluable,  as  in  a  few  hours 
they  remove  all  hoarseness,  and  wonderftilly  increase  the  power  and  flexibility  of  the  voice. 
Trbt  havb  a  plbasakt  Tastk. 

Price  is.  licL,  2t.  94.,  and  lis.  per  box.   Sold  l^  all  Medldne  YendiMn. 

IMPORTANT  CAUTION.— It  has  been  discovered  that  many  Medicine  Vendors,  when 
asked  for  any  of  Slt>  XiOCOCCS  MBSZCZVBSf  attempt  to  pass  off  instead 
some  counterfeit,  because  they  have  a  greater  profit  in  doing  so  than  by  selling  the  genuine 
Medicine :  the  Public  is  cautionbd  ac^dnst  such  disbonestpractioes,  which  may  be  detected 
by  observing  that  every  box  ^^■■■■■■■■■■■■mHflM  of  the  6EINUINE 
Medicine  has  the  words  ^^■J^^inTW^HS^^^I  *''*  ^^^^  Letters  on 
a  Red  Oround  in  the  ^^H^^^inRnPSlH^^^B  Govemmant  Stamp, 
and  without  which  words     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H     au.  ajub  countsb- 

EVERT  SATURDAY,  PRICE  FOURPENCEy  OF  ANY  BOOKSELLER, 

THE  ATHENiEUM 

JOURiNAL  OF  LITERATURE,  SCIENCE,  AND  ART. 

(stamped  to  go  free  by  post,  Scf.)    Contains  : 


with  copious  extracts,  of  every  important  New  English  Book,  and  of  the  mon 
important  Foreign  Works. 

^ortfl  of  the  Proceedings  of  the  Learned  and  Scientific  Societies,  with  Abstracts  of  all 
Papers  of  Interest. 

iLntbentiO  AooouiltS  of  all  Scientific  Voyages  and  Expeditions, 

Vwteiign  Correspondence  on  subjects  relating  to  Literature,  Science,  and  Art. 

Critleisms  on  Art,  with  Critical  Notices  of  Exhibitions,  Picture  Collections,  New 
Prints,  &C. 

MEnsie  and  Drama,  including  Reports  on  the  0pera»  Concerts^  Theatres.  Nev 
Music,  Ac 

Bloirrapllloal  Wotloes  of  Men  distinguished  in  literature.  Science,  and  Art. 

Original  Papers  and  Poems. 

m^eeUy  Oossip. 

KlsoeUaneat  including  all  that  is  likely  to  interest  the  informed  and  intelligent. 

THE    ATHENJEUM 

IS  so  conducted  that  the  reader,  however  far  distant,  is,  in  respect  to  Liieratore,  Sdemo^ 
and  the  Arts,  on  an  equaUty  in  point  of  infonnaUon  with  the  hest-infonned  circles  oftiS 
Metropolis.  ^^ 

In  a*Wm**  -^-THEN-fiUM  is  published  every  Saturday,  \mi  Ib  re-issued  each  Month  ttltciMd  | 

The  rolum^p  for  1856.  complete  in  itself,  and  containing  about  1624  large  quarto  Pftns  wtth   1 

TiUe-page,and  Index,  may  be  had  of  any  Bookseller,  price  One  Guinea.        *  J 

Mke  for  Advertisements,  14.  Weluhotoh  Stubt  Noeth.  Stbahd.  Lohdoh.  W.  a      -J 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  27 

SOUTH  EASTERN  RAILWAY, 

THE  MAIL  SHORT  SEA  ROUTE 

TO  ALL  PARTS  OF  THE  CONTINENT. 


LONDON,  PARIS,  &  THE  SOUTH  OF  EUROPE, 

Via  Folkestone  and  Bonlogne,  and  Borer  and  Calais. 

PABIS  ixL  10}  hours.  I  SWirZEBLAKD  (Bale)  in  87}  hours. 

KABSEILLES  in  84       „      |  BOBDEATTX  in  88       „ 

SEA  PASSAGE  UNDER  TWO  HOURS,  BY  THE  COMPANTS 
SPLENDID  FIRST-CLASS  STEAM  BOATS. 

FOUR  DEPARTURES  DAILY. 

THE  EXPRESS  THROUGH  Tn)AL  SERVICE  to  and  from  PARIS  vi& 
FOLKESTONE  aiKl  BOULOGNE  is  unriyalled  for  speed,  eomfort,  and  general 
efficiency.  The  journey  is  performed  in  LESS  THAN  ELEVEN  HOURS,  and 
passengers  walk  on  board  and  on  shore,  small  boats  being  never  used.  These 
trains  are  accompanied  by  an  Interpreting  Conductor. 

THE  EXPRESS  DAY  SERVICE,  vid  CALAIS  (from  London  at  8-30  A.M., 
and  Paris  at  8  A.M.),  also  offers  great  advantages  to  Passengers,  enabling  them  to 
leave  London  and  Paris  at  convenient  hours,  and  complete  the  respective  journeys 
within  the  same  day.  This  Service  recommends  itself  next  to  the  Tidal  Service. 
The  Sea  Passage  in  both  cases  is  made  during  daylight. 


LONDON,    BELGIUM,    HANOVER,    GERMANY, 

THE  EHINE,  AND  THE  NOETH  OF  EUEOPE. 
Yia  Dover  and  Calais,  and  Boyer  and  Ostend. 

BBTTSSELS in  12J  hours.  I  BEBIHT inS&hovn. 

COLOGVE  in  19       „      |  HAXBUBG  in  86     „ 

THREE  DEPARTURES  DAILY. 

THE  EXPRESS  DAY  SERVICE,  vid  CALAIS,  leaving  London  at  8-30  a.m., 
is  the  most  convenient  for  the  above  destinations,  being  the  shortest  to  Brusxh  bi/ 
an  Bow  and  a  Half^  and  the  only  one  giving  Second  as  well  as  Ftrst-Chssr 
accommodation  throughout. 

Complete  limmgemente  exist  for  the  REGISTRATION  OF  BAGGAGE  by  the 
above  Services ;  and  THROUGH  TICKETS  are  issued  to  the  chief  Cities  and 
Towns  on  the  Continent,  in  many  of  which  there  are  agents  of  the  C!ompany. 

THE  SOUTH  EASTERN  RAILWAY  DAILY  PARCELS  EXPRESSES  to 
PARIS,  BRUSSELS,  and  all  parts  of  the  Continent,  convey  Parcels  up  to  12  lbs. 
weight,  vid  Calais,  and  200  lbs.  vid  Ostend,  by  the  Mail  Trains  at  moderate 
through  rates  as  quickly  as  the  post.  As  all  kinds  of  goods,  whether  samples  or 
merchandise,  up  to  12  lbs.,  can  be  imported  by  these  Expresses,  they  afford  great 
facilities  to  Private  Families  to  procure  articles  from  the  Continent  with  the 
least  amount  of  delay,  expense,  or  trouble. 

For  all  further  particulars  apply  to  C.  W.  ^BORALL, 

AprUf  1859.  Gmeral  Manager,  London  TermiaMM^ 


28  MURBArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 

■<^— ^^^— ^— ^^j^— — ^»^— — i— — — ^^^-^^^^^pi^^p-^^^^-^^^— ^  -  .  ■       ■  ^-^^— — 

MURRAY'S   EDITIONS   FOR  THE  PEOPLE 

IN  MONTHLY  SHILLING  PABTS. 


m 
If 


L  Lard  Byrcn'^  Foetieal  WotJch. 
IL  Croker^B  JBoswelVs  Life  of  Johrmm, 
in.  Moore^a  Life  of  Lord  Byron, 
IV.  CrabWH  Life  and  Poetical  Works. 

LORD  BTROFS  POETICAL  WORKS, 

INCLUDING   HIS  DRAMAS. 

With  niufltratioii^  to  be  completed  in  9  Fajrtat,  8vo.  is.  each. 

Part  L  eontalBB  OHIIiDE  HAXOLD  f6r  One  ShiOmg. 

BnoH's  P0BH8,— *  Thorn  vsho  now  buy  an  edition  <f  Byrm*8  WorJcs  pybUAai  vi(ffmii  (he 
tancHonqfMr.  Murray,  BUY  AN  IMPEEFECT  BOQKJ-^Aihtnmm*  Mg^,  1868. 

MR.  OROKER'S  EDITION  OF 

BOSWELL'S  LIFE  OF  JOHNSON. 

With  Portraits,  to  be  completed  in  10  parte,  Svo,  l«.  each. 

Hb.  Cbokbs'8  PiasFACE.T-'  I  have  found  room  for  a  few  m<H*e  original  lett6ra.  I  have 
also  added  several  new  notes,  and  have  abridged,  altered,  and  I  hope  ii^roved,  many  (A  the 
old  ones. 

'  As  I  think  I  may  venture  to  say  that  my  original  ^iUon  revived,  and  in  some  respects 
extended,  the  public  interest  in  Boswell's  deligfatfiil  work,  I  can  desiie  no  more  t.hun  that 
my  fritent  rexision  may  tend  to  maintain  it' 

%*  if 9  t^liHion  qf  Caokek's  Bo6W9ll  con  be  jm&Usiked  «f90^  hy  Mr,  Mwnrq^y, 


To  be  followed  by 

REV.  GEO.  CRABBE'S  POETICAL  WORKS. 


,  WITH  A  LIFE  BY  HIS  SON. 

1 


With  Bliistrstions.    To  be  completed  in  8  Parta.    8vo.  l»,  each. 
Thb  Fboiu^ s  Pokt.— '  Though  Katoze's  sternest  painter,  yet  the  best'^Loitl  fiynm. 

LIFE  AND  LETTERS  OP  BYEON. 

BY  THOMAS  14:OOBJE!. 

With  niostrations.    To  be  completed  hi  9  Parts.    8vo.  is.  each. 
JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


f> 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  29 


LONDON,    BRIGHTON,   AND   SOUTH   COAST 

BAILWAT. 


di 


PARIS 


AKD  ALL  PARTS  OF  THE 


CONTINENT, 

Vl£  NEWHAVEN  AND  DIEPPE. 


THe    SHORTEST   AND    CHEAPEST    ROUTE 


-i—J.^^1    I  ■  ^,^_.^,fc_j.,^_^^ 


From  the  London  Bridge  and  Pimlico  Termini. 


■I  ■  t   II 


FAEES  THEOUGHOXJT  : 
First  Glass 28s.  i  Second  Class 20s, 


—  *  - 


ll^OR  Times  of  Sailing,  and  full  particulars,  see  Advertisements  in 
•*•  'Bradshaw's  Guide  for  Great  Britain  and  Ireland;'  also  'Brad- 
AaVs  Continental  Guide;*  the  'Times'  newspaper;  aud  the  Time 
Tables  of  the-BsiGHTOH  and  South  Coast  Company. 

Every  information  may  he  obtained  respecting  this  pleasant  and 
beautiful  routCy  on  application  in  London  to  H.  P.  Maflbs,  4,  Arthur 
Street  East  (opposite  the  Monument),  London  Bridge,  and  at  the 
London  and  Brighton  Railway  Offices,  London  Bridge,  and  Pimlico 
Terminus,  and  at  all  their  various  Stations;  also  at  the  Company's 
Offices,  43,  Regent  Circus,  Piccadilly. — ^In  Paris,  to  A.  D.  Bosson,  7, 
Rue  de  la  Paix,  and  at  35,  Quai  Henri  lY.,  Dieppe. 


10.^^01 


^h.^^ 


30  MURKArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


ITALY -PARIS.  &c. 


SIX  MONTHS  in  ITALY.   By  George  S.  HU- 

LABD.     2  vols,  post  8vo.     16«. 

*  Mr.  HillATd  baa  published  an  excellent  aoeotmt  of  his  impreasicms  <^  Italy,  bring- 
ing to  the  suttJect  a  rich  store  of  classical  knowledge,  a  graceful  style,  and  a  remark- 
able abstinence  tmm  any  conunonplace  exac^erations.' — JSarl  Stanht^t  Addresses. 

ITALY :  Remarks  made  in  several  Visits  from 

1816  to  1854.    By  Lord  Bboughton.     2nd  E^tion.      2  vols. 
post-Svo.    18a. 

'  Lord  Bronghton  takes  rank  among  the  very  best  of  that  race  who  are  fast  dying 
oat,  but  Who  in  their  day  occupied  the  highest  literary  position  among  onr  igT*giiKh 
travellers— the  classical  tourists. 

'  The  hand  of  a  refined  and  elegant  scholar  so  delicately  manipulates  old  topics  that 
they  seem  fresh  and  instructive  even  to  those  who  have  long  since  formed  their 
opinions  upon  them.' — Literary  Churchman, 

A  JOURNEY  through  ALBANIA  and  other  Pro- 

vinces  of  Turkey  in  Europe  and  Asia,  to  Constantinople,  1809-10. 
By  Lord  Broughton.  3rd  Edition.  Illustrations.  2  vols.  8  vo.  30«. 

*  The  Albanian  travels  of  Lord  Broughton  have  acquired  fresh  interest  fh>m  recent 
I                         events.    The  eyes  of  the  world  are  turned  to  theTurkish  empire,  and  the  provinces 

long  ago  visited  and  descrilied  by  Byron  and  Hobbou^e  are  agiUn  destined  to  play  no 
unimportant  part  in  history.  Mr.  Hobhouse's  account  of  the  country,  as  it  was  the 
first^  is  still  the  best  that  we  possess.'— Zrtterary  Gazette. 

A  FAGGOT  OF  FRENCH  STICKS.    Being 

Sketches  of  Paris.  By  Sir  Frakois  B.  Head.  3rd  Edition. 
2  vols,  post  8vo.     15s. 

'  Sir  Francis  Head's  book  is  very  curious  and  readable;  but  perhaps  its  most  re* 
markable  feature  is,  how  much  may  be  seen  in  Paris  in  a  short  time  by  a  man  wlx> 
.     resolutely  sets  about  it.' — Spectator. 

BUBBLES  from  the  BRUNNEN  of  NASSAU. 

By  An  Old  Man.    6th  Edition.     16mo.    5s. 

*  Just  suited  for  the  pocket  and  lor  Rhine  travellers.' — AiharuBum. 

THE  ITALIAN  VALLEYS  of  the  ALPS.    A 

,,  Tour  through  all  the  romantic  and   less-frequented   *Vals*  of 

Northern  Piedmont,  from  the  Tarantaise  to  the  Gries.     By  Rev. 
'  S.  W.  King.    Illustrations.    Crown  8vo.    18».. 

i 

^  *  Mr.  King,  in  company  with  his  wife,  to  the  utter  astonishment  of  many  of  the 

■■*  peasant  women  of  Hie  districts  through  which  he  passed,  explored  the  less-frequented 

valleys  of  Northern  I^edmont— running  many  risks,  having  many  hairbreadth  escapes 
—leading  a  fine,  free,  and  independent  life,  and  witnessing  much  of  nature's  bora? 
and  grandeur  in  their  wildest  and  most  magnificent  forms.  Mr.  King  is  an  int^Usent 
companion,  and  in  his  published  tour  there  is  a  great  deal  of  agreeable  readinoT^Be 
has  gone  into  regions  comparatively  unknown,  and  returned  laden  with  spolL  We 
thank  him  for  his  pictures  of  snowy  Alps,  and  mighty  glaciers,  and  thnndeiinff  ata! 
lanches-of  ceaseless  torrents  running  down  to  the  sunny  vales,  of  rare  animaS.  a^ 
d  women  of  a  simplicity  and  honesty  rarer  bUIV— Daily  News.  '  ^ 

JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


'ii 


lancbes 
men  and 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  31 

NEW     GENERAL.     ATLAS. 

•   • — 

lliis  day  is  published,  Pabt  I.,  price  10<.  6({.,  of 

KEITH  JOHNSTON'S 

ROYAL  ATMS  OF  MODEM  GEOGRAPHY. 

Containing  Five  Maps,  and  Index  to  each  Map — viz, : 
FBAKC£,  with  Index  to  4406  Places  on  the  Map. 

BWITZEBLAKD,  with  Index  to  4907  Places  on  the  Map. 
OBEECE,  with  Index  to  2187  Places  on  the  Map. 

This  Atlas  will  be  published  in  Ten  Parts,  price  10<.  ed.  each,  at  intervals  of  Two  Months, 
and  will  form  a  handsome  portable  Volume,  size  20  X  I3i  inches,  consisting  of  a  series  of  48 
original  and  authentic  Maps,  constructed  by  Alex.  Keith  Johnston,  F.R.G^.,  Author  of 
the  *  Physical  Atlas,'  &c.,  and  beautifully  engraved  and  coloured  in  the  finest  style  by 
W.  &  A.  K.  Johnston,  with  a  Special  Index  to  each  Map.  A  General  Index  will  be  pub- 
lished in  an  Octavo  Volume. 


By  the  same  Author, 

TOURISTS'  MAP  OF  SCOTLAND.  Size  3  feet  by  2  feet.  Con- 
taining upwards  of  8000  Names  of  Places.  With  an  Alphabetical  Index.  Price  7«.  6d. 
in  a  Case  for  the  Pocket ;  or  6s.  in  Sheets. 

NEW  TRAVELLING  MAP  OF  ITALY.     On  Two  Sheets  Eoyal. 

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TRAVELLING  MAP  OF  SWITZERLAND.    On  One  Sheet  Royal. 

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TRAVELLING  MAP  OF  CANADA.     Two  Sheets  Royal.     With 

Index  of  Names  on  the  Map.    In  a  Case  for  the  Pocket,  8s. ;  in  Sheets,  6s. 

GEOLOGICAL   MAP  OF  EUROPE.     By  Sir  R.  L  Murchison, 

D.C.L.,  ftc,  and  Jakes  Nicol,  F.R.S.E. ;  constructed  by  A.  Keith  Johnston,  FJEIJS.E. 
Beautifully  printed  in  Colours.  Size  4  feet  2  inches  by  3  feet  5  inches.  Price  31,  iQs,  in 
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A.  Keith  Johnston.  Size  3  feet  by  2  feet.  Printed  in  Colours.  With  Geological 
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MAP  OF  EUROPE.    By  A.  Keith  Johnston,  F.R.S.E.    On  Four 

Sheets  ImperiaL    Price  16<. ;  or,  in  a  Case  for  Travelling,  2^s, 

THE  PHYSICAL  ATLAS  OF  NATURAL  PHENOMENA.     By 

A.  Keith  Johnston,  F.RjS.E.,  &c.  Consisting  of  55  large  and  1  small  Maps,  printed 
in  Colours,  and  145  folio  pages  of  Text  and  index.  In  Imperial  folio,  half-bound  in 
mssia  or  morocco.    Price  121.  I2s. 


WILLIAM  BLACKWOOD  &  SONS,  EDINBURGH  AND  LONDON. 

Soid  by  all  Booksellers, 


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MUBBATS  HISTORIC  CLASS-BOOKS. 


Now  Ready,  with  numerous  illosiraiive  Woodcuts,  post  Syo.^  7s,  6d.  each, 

black  cloth,  red  edgesy 

L_THE  STUDENT'S  HUME :  aHistory  of  Eng- 

land,  from  the  Inrasion  of  Jvlius  Ceesar.  Based  on  Hmxie's  History,  incor* 
porating  the  correctioDs  and  researches  of  recent  writers,  and  continued  to 
the  Year  1858.  \ 

<  The  work  of  condensation  has  heen  ezceedingi  j  well  performed,  and  the  coo- 
tinuation  is  written  in  an  easy  and  comprehensive  style.  As  an  educalttMiii^ook, 
this  volume  ought  at  once  to  take  a  high  position.'— ^d/fx  Mesaenger, 

*  The  Studenfs  Hume — Smith's  History  of  Greece — LiddelVs  History  of  Bomt 
— and  the  Students  Gibbon^  form  an  excellent  historical  library,  procurable  for  30i.' 
— GardeMr*s  Chr^icle. 


41 


IL-THE  STUDENT'S  HISTORY  OF  GREECE. 

From  the  Earliest  Times  to  the  Roman  Conquest,  with  the  History  of  Lite- 
rature and  Art. 

'  We  have  much  satisfaction  in  bearing  testimony  to  the  excellence  of  the  plan 
of  this  History,  and  the  carefcil,  soholarlike  manner  in  whioh  it  has  been  carried 
out.  The  great  distinctive  feature,  however,  is  the  chapters  on  Literatu/e  and 
Art.  This  gives  it  a  decided  advantage  oner  all  previous  tcorks  of  t?te  kind,*^ 
AthenoBum, 


ni.-THE  STUDENT'S   HISTORY  OF    ROME. 

From  the  Earliest  Times  to  the  Establishment  of  the  Empire.     With  the 
History  of  Literature  and  Art. 

'A  pre-eminently  use/W  book.  To  the  youthful  student,  to  the  man  who 
cannot  read  many  volumes,  we  should  commend  it  as  the  one  history  whidi  will 
convey  the  latest  views  and  most  extensive  information.  The  style  is  simple, 
clear,  and  exjjlanatory  ....  Our  opinion  is,  that  there  is  no  other  woik  at 
present  existing  which  so  ably  supplies  *'  a  History  of  Rome"  suited  to  the  wanii 
of  general  readers  of  the  present  day.* — Blackwood, 


1). 


III 


iv.-THE  STUDENT'S  aiBBON.    A  Histoiy  of 

the  Decline  and   Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire*     Abridged   from    pibboo^s 
History.    Incorporating  the  corrections  and  researches  of  recent  historians. 

'  A  judicious  abridgment  of  the  great  historian.  The  labours  of  later  writot 
have  been  incorporated  in  the  text,  which  is  illustrated  by  excellent  plates  sf 
medals,  coins,  temples,  aqueducts,  &c.  At  the  end  are  genealogies  of  the  imW' 
rial  families,  a  list  of  the  Roman  emperors,  and  a  full  and  accurate  index.  &, 
work  cannot  fail  to  be  a  useful  book  of  reference.' — Literary  Gazette, 


JOHN  MURBAT,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


A 


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lived  there; — to  adiq>t  as  simple  and  condensed  a  style  as  posubl^  avoiding  florid 
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JOHN  MITRRAT,  ALBEMARLE  STREET* 


MDRRATS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  35 


BONN    ON   THE    RHINE. 


MR.  SCHMITZ, 

PROPRIETOR  OF  THE  GOLDEN  STAR  HOTEL^ 

Begs  leave  to  reoommend  his  Hotel  to  English  Travellers.  The 
apartments  are  furnished  throughout  in  the  English  style ;  the  rooms 
are  carpeted ;  and  the  attendance,  as  well  as  the  kitchen  and  the  wine- 
cellar,  is  well  provided.  Mb.  SCHMITZ  begs  to  add  that  at  no  first- 
rate  Hotel  on  the  Rhine  Will  be  found  more  moderate  charges  and  more 
cleanliness. 

The  STAR  HOTEL  has  been  honoured  by  the  visits  of  the  following 
Members  of  the  English  Royal  Family : — 

{H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  accompanied  by  Cesneral  Sir  W.  Codeinotok, 
Colonel  PoNsoNfeT,  Sir  Frederic  Stanley,  Dr.  Abmstbong,  Rev.  F.  C. 
fAfiTEK  ^At  Oibbs  etc 
n'^'r     Ant,  9h  i  ^  ^*  ^  the' Prince  of  Wales  and  his  Saite  paying  a  visit  at  the  Gddm 
XB»<.    Aug.^u-^        5'torifotei  to  ffis  Majesty  the  King  Of  the  Belglahs. 
1857.    Aug.  8      H.R.H.  the  Prince  Of  Wales  and  his  Suite. 
18S7     Julv  29*i  ^'  ^  ^'  ^  Duchess  of  Cambrtoob  and  Princess  Mabt.  of  Caubsiooe* 

^       (        accompanied  by  the  Baron  Knesbbbck  and  Suite. 

1857     Julv  29  i  ^'  ^-  ^*  *^®  Prince  of  Wales  paying  a  visit  at  the  Golden  Star  B<ad  to 

^       \        T.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Caubbidge  and  Princess  Mabt  of  Cavbbtdqe. 

I  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  accompanied  by  the  Right  Honourable  C 

185Y.    July  15  •?         Gbet,  General  Majob,  Colonel  Poksonby,  Sir  Frederic  Stanley,  Di. 

^        Armstbong,  Rev.  F.  C.  Tabveb,  Mr.  Gibbs,  etc. 
issfi     Nov       ^  ^'  ^*  ^'  I^i°ce  Alfred  of  Great  BBiTAm,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant- 
*eoo.  ^luv.    .-^        General  Sir  Frederick  Stoven  and  Lieutenant  Oowell. 

IH.  M.  Adelaide,  Queen  Dowager  of  Great  Britain,  accompanied  by 
His  Highness  Ftince  Edward  of  Saxe  Weimar,  Lord  and  Lady  Bab- 
BiNGTON,  Sir  David  Davies,  M J).,  Rev.  J.  R.  Wood,  M.A.,  Captain 
Taylor,  &c.  &c.,  honoured  the  above  establishment  with  a  Tubes 
Days'  Visit. 
1818.  May  .  .  H.  R.  H.  the  Duke  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 
1825.    March     (  H.  R.  H.  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  eLABENCS  (Ehig  Willlak  IV.  and 

and  Sept.    .  (        Queen  Adelaide)  and  Suite. 
1834     Julv       i  ^*  ^'  Q^^BN  Adelaide,  accompanied  by  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Ebbol 
^  *  *  t        Earl  and  Countess  of  Denbigh,  Earl  and  Countess  Howe,  &g. 

1836.  Aug.     .    H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Gloucesteb  and  Suite. 

1837.  July.  •    H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 
1839.    Nov.    .    H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  Geobgb  of  Cambbidge  and  Suite. 

v-y        ( H.  R.  H.  Prince  Albert  of  Saxe  Cobubg  Gotha,  accompanied  by  Prince 

«UY.    •  ^        Ebnbst  of  Saxe  Cobubg  Gotha,  and  theit  Suite. 
•gAQ  ( H.  R.  H.  the  Ducheas  of  Cambridge,  accompanied  by  the  Princess  AnousxA 

*     *  *  •  •  l^        of  Cambridge,  and  their  Suite. 
lAiii  ( H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Kent  and  Suite,  acoompanied  by  H.  S.  H.  thfi 

**^^ I        Prince  of  Leiningbn. 

1841.     •  •  .  •    H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridgb  and  Suite. 

—  .  •  •  .    H.  R.  H.  Princess  Carolina  of  Cambridge. 
1844 H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 

—  •  •  •  •    H.  R.  H.  Princess  Mary  of  Cambridge. 

1845     June     i  H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Kent  and  Suite,  accompanied  by  H.  S.  H.  the 

*  \        Prince  of  Leiningen. 
184T    July      ^  ^'  ^  ^*  the  Duke  and  Dachesa  of  Gaubbisgjb^  with  their  Family  »r 


36  MURRATS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


HANDBOOKS 

For  Travellers  Abroad,  or  Readers  at  Home* 

■  ♦  ■ 

HANDBOOK  OP  INDIA.— MADEAS  and  BOMBAY. 

Intended  for  the  use  of  Travellers,  Officers,  and  Civilians ;  containing  Infor- 
mation useful  before  starting  as  to  Outfit— Health— Expenses^Comfort— the 
Overland  Route,  &c.  With  Vocabularies  and  Dialogues  of  the  spokwi  Languages. 
By  Edward  B.  Eastwick.    Maps.    2  vols.    Post  8vo.    24s 


A 


*  A  vast  historical  and  personal  knowledge 
of  India  has  been  sifted  hito  this  volume, 
which  is  no  compilation,  bat  an  elaborately 
executed  account,  by  a  writer  of  the  highest 
qualifications.     The  travellers,  oflOoers,  and 


civilians,  for  whom  it  is  intended,  owe  their 
hest  gratitude  to  Mr.  Eastwick  for  the  labour 
and  leandng  he  has  brought  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  a  task  so  intrinsically  fonni- 


II. 


HANDBOOK  FOE  EGYPT.  Including  Descriptions  of  the 
Course  of  the  Nile  to  the  Second  Cataract,  Alexandria,  Cairo,  the  Pyramids, 
and  Thebes,  the  Overland  Transit  to  India,  the  Peninsula  of  Mount  Sinai,  the 
Oases,  &c    By  Sir  J.  G.  Wilkinson.    Third  Edition.    Map.    Post  Svo.    15». 

III. 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TBDE3  HOLY  LAND,  tlie  Peninsula  of 
Sinai,  Edom,  and  the  Syrian  Desert ;  an  account  of  the  Geography,  History, 
Antiquities,  and  Inhabitants.     By  Rev.  J.  L.  Pobteb.    Maps  and  Plana.     2  vols. 

volume.  This  spirit  Is  found  in  The  JBbsul- 
book  of  Syria  and  PaHegHne;  indeed  it  per- 
vades the  book,*—£fpectator. 


Post  Svo.     24s. 

•A  spirit  of  living  knowledge  which  shall 
animate  the  ruins  or  associations  of  the  past, 
as  well  as  the  descriptions  of  the  actual  pre- 
sent, is  requisite  to  make  a  readable  home 


IV. -^ 


HANDBOOK  FOR  GREECE.  Describing  i^e  Ionian 
Islands,  the  Kingdom  of  Greece,  the  Islands  of  the  Mgeaja.  Sea,  with  Albania, 
Thessalyi  and  Macedonia.  By  Sir  G.  F.  BoWEN.  Second  Edition.  Map. 
Post  Svo.    155, 

V. 

HANDBOOK  FOR  SPAIN.  Describing  the  Country  and 
Cities,  the  Natives  and  their  Manners,  the  Antiquities,  Religion,  L^ends, 
Fine  Arts,' Literature,  Sports,  Gastronomy,  &c. ;  with  Notices  on  Spanish  History. 
By  RiCHAttD  Ford.    Third  Edition.    With  Maps.    2  vols.     Post  Svo.     30s. 


•  Let  not  those  who  stay  at  home  to  read 
about  Spain  quarrel  with  this  perfonnance. 
Ifls  the  best  English  book,  beyond  compa- 
rison, that  ever  has  appeared  for  the  illus- 
tration, not  merely  of  the  general  topography 
and  local  curiosities,  but  of  tae  national 
character  and  manners  of  Spain,  her  arts,  an- 
tiquities, peculiarities,  &c    It  appears  in  the 


modest  guise  of  a  **  red  Murray."  We  have 
no  doubt  fthat  the  work  is  a  capital  Aatid- 
book—htxt  it  is  not  to  be  tried  b7  that  stand- 
ard. If  the  extraneous  disquisitions  were 
printed  by  themselves  we  should  have  before 
us  a  first-rate  library  book;  and  it  lain  tids 
light  chiefly  that  we  regard  it.' — Quarteriu 
Heview, 


JOHN  MUKRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER,  37 


Now  ready,  SevenUi  and  improved  Edition,  4io.  price  5«.  handflomely  bound  in  doth  boards 

and  lettered. 

VOCABULAIRE   STMBOLIQUE 

ANGLO-FEANGAIS, 

Poor  les  El^yes  de  tout  Age  et  de  tout  Degr^;  dans  leqnel  lea  Mots  les  plus  utiles  sont 

enseign^  par  des  Illustrations. 

Par  L.  C.  BAOOKOT,  Professenr  de  Langne  Frangaue. 


lA  SywSbolic  .FViencA  cand  EfigliA  YocabvUUiry.for  Students  of  every  Age,  in  aU  Olaatet :  in 
which  the  mott  Useful^  and  Common  Words  are  taught  by  lUustrations,  By  L.  C. 
RAGONOT,  Professor  of  the  French  Language.] 

%*  The  Illustrations  comprise,  embodied  in  the  text,  accurate  representations  of  upwards 
of  850  different  objects,  besides  nine  whole-page  copper-plates  beautifully  executed,  each 
conveying,  through  the  eye,  a  large  amount  of  instruction  in  the  French  language.  The 
text,  which  is  very  copious,  comprises  a  large  quantity  of  matter  on  a  great  variety  of  sub- 
jects. Great  care  has  been  taken  to  render  this  Edition  worthy  of  the  patronage  which  has 
been  bestowed  on  the  work.    NeW  plates  have  been  substituted. 


EXTRACT  FROM  PREFACE. 


The  principal  characteristic  of  'The  Symbolic  Anglo-I'rench  Yocabnlary'  is  the  repre- 
sentation by  its  illustrations  of  various  series  of  familiar  objects,  arranged  according  to  their 
nature,  and  their  relationship  to  each  other ;  thus  allowing  the  understanding  to  compare 
them,  and  to  perceive  at  a  glance  the  differences  which  distinguish  them,  as  well  as  to 
remember  them.  As  regards  the  text,  we  have  thought  it  not  out  of  place  to  give  a  short 
outline,  at  tiie  commencement  of  each  chapter  or  division,  of  the  subject  about  to  be  treated 
of,  in  order  to  render  it  more  instructive,  and  at  the  same  time  to  counteract  the  aridity  of  a 
mere  classification.  In  some  instances  we  have  followed  this  out  so  as  to  increase  the  interest 
while  showing  the  precise  meaning  of  the  words  by  assembling  them  in  sentences,  carefully 
avoiding,  however,  those  lists  of  words  ^hich  are  nearly  the  same  in  form  and  meaning  in 
both  languages,  and  would  only  needlessly  increase  the  extent  of  the  book— such,  for  instance, 
as  the  geofipiaphical  divisions,  the  names  of  countries  and  nations,  and,  in  short,  all  those 
series  purely  scientific  We  may  perhaps  incur  the  blame  of  not  having  made  the  work 
strictly  an  elementary  one,  but  we  wink  we  have  a  safQcient  excuse  in  the  fact  tiiat  the  book, 
without  being  too  much  lengthened,  is  thereby  rendered  more  generally  useful.  We  repeat; 
in  conclusion,  contrary  to  the  method  usually  followed,  this  work  will  offer  the  advantage  of 
teaching  all  engaged  in  the  elementary  part  of  the  language  numerous  series  of  useful  words 
of  constant  occurrence.  The  child's  portion  will  naturally  be  the  illustrations,  while  tbd 
older  scholar  will  devote  his  attention  more  particularly  to  tiie  text  In  fact,  the  student  of 
every  grade  will  find  easy  and  useful  references  in  the  book,  and  by  its  aid  all  lunds  of  works, 
travels,  rcnnances,  &c.,  the  introductory  pages  of  which  are  generally  so di£Qcult  and  repulsive, 
-even  to  an  advanced  sdbolar,  will  be  rendered  intelligible  and  amusing.  With  these  expla- 
nations we  leave  *  The  Symbolic  A^glo-French  Vocabulary '  to  the  Judgment  of  the  public. 


Lo2nx)N:  Simpkin,  Marshall,  &  Co.,  Stationers'  Hall  Court.  Pabis:  A.  &  W.  Galignani  & 
Co.,  Rue  de  Rivoli,  No.  224.  Nbw  Yosk  :  Charles  Scribner  &  Co.,  377  &  379,  Broadway. 
And  sold  by  ail  Booksellers  in  Town  and  Country,  and  on  the  Continent. 


ir.B.—An  AnglO'German  Edition  cf  the  above  wiU  he  ready  in  a  few  toeekSt  in  a  portable 
size,  with  upwards  of ^50  Woodcuts,  printed  with  the  type,  and  eight  whoie^ge  plates. 
Especially  suUable  to  tU  Towritt,    Price  e«.   {May  ist,  1869.3 


8S 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISEB. 


WORKS  ON  T^  FINE  ARTS. 


KUGLEB'S  HANDBOOK  TO  THE  ITALIAN  SCHOOLS 
OF  PAINTING.  Edited  hj  Sir  Chaal£;8  KAS^ShAxm,  RJC  2%wdJSdi- 
tion.     IllustratioDB.     2  toU.     Post  8yo.     309. 


'TboM  who  require  a  laocinct  oompen- 
dhim  of  the  history  of  Italian  painting  will 
And  what  they  need  In  Kngler's  Handbook 
of  Faintlngi  with  muaerous   and  well-eze- 


cnted  illxntratiom  <of  the  most  celebrated 
paintings  referred  to  In  it' — Murrains  Mand' 
book  qf  Italy, 


A 


BIOGRAPHICAL  DICTIONARY  OF  ITALIAN 

PAINTERS.    By  A  Lady.    Edited  by  R.  N.  Wqbnum.    Wi^^hart. 
PostSro.     6«.  6d. 


'I  I 


*Aj  a  portable  oompendlnm  on  Italian 
painters  the  traveller  will  find  no  work  In  a 
amaU  space  so  oseftal  as  this ;  Indeed  It  may 


be  considered  as  a  necessary  compimian  or 
supplement  to  the  Handbooks  of  Italy.' — 
MurraTfi  Btmilbooh  vf  Itaiy. 


HANDBOOK  FOR  YOUNG  PAINTERS,    By  C.  B.  Lesue, 
R.A.     lUnstsations.     Post  8v«.     IO5. 6d. 

*  An  interesting  general  view  of  the  art  <jf 
painting,  as  displayed  in  the  works  oi  the 
best  masters  of  all  schools;  It  is  likely  to  be 


more  xlbbM.  to  nninstmcted  pictnre-seerSt 
than  as  a  Handbook  tm  Young  Paintera.'**^ 
Examiner. 


A 


MEMOIRS  OF  THE  EARLY  ITALIAN  PAINTERS,  and 
OF  THE  Pboobess  OP  PAINTING  IN  Italy*  By  Mrs,  Jameson.  Wood- 
cuts, fcap.  8vo.,  65. 

RT  TREASURES  IN  ENGLAND :  Being  an  Acconnt  of 

the  Chief  Collections  of  Paintings,   Sculpture,   Drawings,  &c.,   in   Great 

Britain.     By  Dr.  Waagen.    4  vols.     8vo. 

before  the  public.  Dr.  Waagen's  name  is  too 
familiar  to  the  art-world  to  require  any  in- 
troduction.'— Quarterly  Seview, 

SKETCH    OP    THE    HISTORY    OF    PAINTING, 

Ancient  and  Modern,  showing  its  gradual  and  yarious  development  firom 

the  Earliest  Ages  to  the  Present  Time.     By  Rai*ph  N,  Wobnum.     New 

Edition.     Woodcuts.     Post  8vo,     6s. 

*  This  useful  handbook  embraces  the  gradual 
and  various  development  of  painting  from 
the  earliest  ages  to  the  present  time,  and 


'  The  work  before  us  contains  more  of  ilie 
essence  of  trae  connoisseurshlp  than  any 
■other  of  the  same  class  that  has  yet  come 


A 


characterises  the  different  epochs  of  that  ex- 
cellent ttrt.'-^Daily  Tdegraih. 


0 


N    COLOUR,   AJTD    ON    THE   Necessity  for   a   General 

Diffusion  of  Taste  among  all  Classes  ;  with  Examples  of  Good  and 
Bad  Taste,  illustrated  by  Woodcuts  and  Coloured  Plates.  By  Sir  J.  G. 
Wilkinson.    8vo.    18s. 


*Thi3  contribution  to  the  literature  of  the 
Fine  Arts  will  be  chiefly  esteemed  for  its 
extraordinary  practical  value,  its  rare  con- 


sistency, and  its  entire  fi^eedom  from  affecta- 
tion and  mere  Ut^caiy  pretension.' — JHiUjf 
News, 


THE   EARLY  FLEMISH   PAINTERS :   their  Liras  and 
Works.   By  J.  A.  Crowe  and  O.  B.  Cavaselle.  Woodcuts.  Post  8vo.  12s. 

else  have  overlooked,  and  will  find  manv  \ 
errors  in  the  ordinaiy  guide-books  coxxectedl'/ 
— Guardian, 


*  Just  the  book  which  the  amateur  will  be 
wise  In  consulting  before  he  visits  a  gallery 
or  commences  a  tour.  He  will  have  his  at- 
tention  called  to  works  of  art  which  he  might 


JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


30 


ARGUS  LIFE  ASSURANCE  COMPANY, 

39,  THROGMORTON  STREET,  BANK. 

_- o— — 

C3HAnxAir— WniaAH  Lsat,  i&q.   'Dispinr-GHAiRHAK— JoHsr-HuimogRT,  Si^,  AldamnQ. 

Rich.  £.  Arden,  Esfi.  I  Professor  Hall,  M.A,    i  Riupert  Ingleby^Esq.  I  Jeremiah  Pilcbei;  Esq. 

Edward  Bates,  Esq.   I  T.Famoomfo,  Esq.  Aid.  |  S.  W.  Johnson,  Esq.  |  Lewis  Fooock,  Esq. 

Physician— Dr.  Jeaffk^son,  2,  Rnsbury  Square. 

SuBGBON—W.  Oonlson,  Esq.,  2,  Frederick's  Place,  Old  Jewxy, 

AoruABT— ueorge  dark,  Esq. 


ADVANTAGES  OF  ASSUBING 

nr  THIS  coKFAinr. 

Trb  Fremtnnis  jare  en  the  lowest  scale  con- 
sistent with  socarity. 

The  Asssred  are  protected  by  a  sabscrlbed 
Capital  of  300,0001.,  aa  Assvranoe  Fuid  of 
470,0001.,  invested  on  mortgage  and  in  the 
Government  Stockp*  aadan  iiioome  of  65,000i. 
»-year. 


PremiuBu  to  ■: 

winiML 

'Whole  Term. 

1 

Yetf. 

Yean. 

PraAts. 

WMiottt 

r>i  .till 

10 

ao 

40 
50 

so 

£0  17    8 
1    1    8 
15   0 
1  14     1 
8    S    4 

£0  10    0 
I    t   7 
1    O    9 
1  10  to 
8  17    0 

£1  15  to 
9    »    5 

8  0    7 
4    6    8 

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£1  U  10 
«    0    7 
S  14  10 
4    0  It 
0    0  10 

mrruAL  bsakch. 

Absubbbs  on  the  Bonus  System  are  entitled 
at  the  end  of  five  yeassio  participate  in  nine- 
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The  profit  assigned  to  eadi  poli^  can  be 
added  to  the  sum  assured,  applied  in  reduction 
of  the  annual  premium,  or  be  received  in  cash. 

At  the  first  division  a  return  of  20  per  cent; 
in  cash  on  the  premiums  paid  was  ikclared ; 
this  will  allow  a  reversionary  increase  vary- 
ing,  according  to  age,  firom  M  to  28  per  cent, 
on  the  premiums,  or  £rom  6  to  15  percent,  on 
the  sum  assured. 

One-half  of  the  "Whole  Term"  PKmium 
may  remain  on  credit  fur  seven  years,  or  one- 
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a  debt  upon  the  Policy  at  6  per  cent,  or  may 
be  paid  off  at  any  time  without  notice. 

Claims  paid  in  om  month  after  proofe  have 
been  approved. 

Loans  upon  approved  security. 

No  charge  for  Poli^  stamps. 

Medical  attendants  paid  for  their  reports. 

Persons  may,  in  time  of  peace,  proceed  to  or 
reside  in  any  part  of  E^irope  or  JEMltish  Noith 
America  wfthoHt  extca  (Aiarge. 

The  medical  ofiScers  attend  eveiy  day  at  a 
quarter  b^ore  two  o'clock. 

£.  BATES,  Euident  Direetar. 


GEOLOGY  AND   MINERALOGY. 

A  KNOWLEDGE  of  these  interesting  branches  of  Science  adds  greatly  to  Hke 
pleasure  of  the  trav^er  in  idl  parts  of  the  world,  and  may  lead  to  important  discoveries. 

Mr.  TBNNAN T,  Mineralogist  to  Her  Majesty,  149.  Strand,  gives  Practical  Instruction 
to  Travelleri,  in  MmEBALOaT  and  Gboloot.  He  'Can  supply  Geol^cal  Maps,  Hammers, 
Acid  Bottles,  Blowpipes,  and  all  the  recent  Worlu  on  Miaendogy,  Conchology,  Ch^nlstry, 
and  Geology. 

Elementary  Collections  of  Minerals,  Rocks,  and  Fossils,  at  Two,  Five,  Ten,  Twenty,  Fifty, 
and  One  Hundred  Guineas  each. 

A  Collection  for  Five  Guineas,  whtdi  will  iUostaate  the  recent  works  on  Geology  by  Iy«Il, 
Ansted,  Mantell,  and  others,  containB  200  Specimens,  hi  a  plain  Mahogany  Cabinet,  with 
five  Trays,  comprising  the  following  specimens,  viz.: — 

MINERALS  which  are  either  the  components  of  Rocks,  or  occasionally  embedded  in  them : 
Qaartz,  Agate,  Chalcedony,  Jasper,  Garnet,  Zeolite,  Hornblende,  Auidte,  Asbestus,  Felspar, 
Mica,  Talc,  Tourmaline,  Calcareous  Spar,  Flfior,  Selenlte,  Baryta,  Strontia,  Salt,  Sulphur, 
Plumbago,  Bitumen,  8cc  

NATIVE  METALS,  or  METALLIFEROUS  MINERALS:  these  are  found  in  masses  or 
■f)eds,  in  veins,  and  occasionally  in  thelaeds  of  rivers.  Specimens  of  the  following  metaUio 
ores  are  put  in  the  Gsibinet :  Iron,  Manganese,  Lead,  Tin,  Zinc^  Copper,  Antimony,  Silvor, 
<^d,  PUtina.  kc 

B.0CK3 :  Granite,  Gneiss,  Mica-slate,  Clay-slate,  Porphyry,  Serpentine,  Sandstones,  Lhne- 
atones,  Basalt.  Lavas,  fee. 

PALiBOZOIC  FOSSILS  fifom  the  LUmdeilo,  Wonlock,  Ludlow,  Devsonian,  and  Carboni- 
ferous Rocks. 

SECON^DARY  FOSSILS  from  the  lias.  Oolite,  Wealden,  and  Cretaceous  Groups. 

TER  XIART  FOSSH^  from  the  Woolwich,  Barton,  and  BracUesham  Beds,  London^di^, 
/Crag,  &c. 

In  the  more  ei^ensiw  coUections  some  of  the  ipeehnena  ate  rave,  and  all  mrore  select. 
Mr.  Tbnmant  has  on  sale  the  Duke  of  Buckhigha^'a  Collection  of  Minerals  from  Stowo. 
It  contains  upwards  of  8000  specimens,  and  haa'l)een  gready  enriched  since  the  purchase 
lu^  a  oolleotioo  of  coloui>ed  Diamonds,  Australian  Gold,  &c.    Price  2000  guineas. 

. <L.;a^«ANT,.  Geologist,  No.  149,  Strand,  London,  W.  0. 


.1 


40  MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


ILLUSTRATED  WORKS. 


Pilgrimage  of  Ohilde  Harold.   %  Lobd  Btboit.    nius^ 

trated,  for  the  flrat  time.  \>j  TO  Wood-engrayings  of  the  most  reuuakable  SoeneB^ 
Edifices,  Stataes,  &c^  described  in  the  Poem.    Crown  4to.    2U. 

*  Wood-engraTtog  in  this  book  has  been  carried  to  a  pitdi  of  excellence,  as  far  ae 
we  remember,  miparalleled,  and  not  sorpassed,  if  equalled,  by  any  steel  engravings,  so 
great  is  the  softness  as  well  as  power.  Ereiy  illustration  is  individually  a  flnt-class 
work  of  art— Frest. 

Ancient  Spanisli  Ballads.     Tianaiaiecl  by  j.  G.  Lockhabt. 

With  Ck>loared  Borders,  Illuminated  Titles,  Initial  Lettera^  and  nunwious  Woodcats^' 
4to.    au.  ^ 

'  Lockbart's  Spanish  Ballads ;  a  volume  that  has  long  ranked  with  the  most  beaatiftit 
of  all  gift-books— one  of  the  first  indeed  in  the  class  of  illustrated  books.  Until  percep- 
tions of  the  beautiful  have  become  dull  amimgst  ns,  such  a  book  is  in  no  dauger  of 
losing  its  popularity.'— JSmsiiner. 

Oreece :  Pictorial^  Descriptiye,  and  Historical.   By  Hev. 

C.  WoBDswoRTH,  DJ).    With  an  Essay  on  Greek  Art»  by  Obobob  Sghabv,  F.S.A. 
With  nearly  600  lUustnitions.    Royal  8ro.    28«. 

'  The  merits  of  this  work  are  so  well  known  that  it  is  only  necessary  to  observe 
here  how  greatly  the  additions  have  added  to  its  value.  The  work  has  all  the  ftmner 
illustrations  of  celebrated  sites  and  monuments,  with  the  addition  of  a  history  of 
Greek  art,  by  George  Scharf,  oopiovudy  illustrated  by  a  series  of  weU-selected  examples.' 


The"  Handbook  of  Architecture.  Being  a  concise  and  popular 
account  of  the  different  styles  of  Archlteeture  prevailii^  in  all  ages  and  ooimtrleB. 
By  James  Fbrgussok.   2nd  Edition.  With  860  illustrations.   8vo.  26s. 

'  Though  not  of  imposing  sise,  Mr.  Fergusson's  book  has  legitimate  claims  to  be  ooa- 
Bldered  a  great  woric  It  is  the  result  of  long  labour  and  original  observation.  Henoe 
his  work  is  complete  as  an  outline  history  of  the  art' — ^Presi; 

The  Ancient  Egyptians.  Their  Priyate  Life,  Manners,  and 
Customs.  By  Sir  J.  G.  WiLKOrsoir.  3rd  Edition.  With  500  Woodcuts.  2  vols.  Post 
8vo.    12*. 

'The  work  is  beautifully  brought  out  and  illustrated  at  every  page,  and  is,  perhaps, 
the  most  x>erfect  work  of  the  kind  which  has  appeared.  It  is  invaluable  to  the  student 
of  antiquity  and  Oriental  traveller.'^ifomiiv  JPott, 


The  Arabian  Nights'.  Translated  by  E.  W.  Laijte,  autibor  of  the 
'Modem  Egyptians.'  A  new  library  Edition.  Edited  by  E.  Stanlbt  Foolb.  WUh 
600  illustrations.    3  vols.    8vo.    42«. 

*  As  a  mine  of  true  Orienial  wit  and  wisdom  contained  in  a  mountain  of  good 
English  scholarship  in  Eastern  lore,  this  work  is  unequalled  in  attraction.  This  new 
edition  of  this  beautiful  book  displays  its  old  wealth  of  pictorial  embellishment'— 
Examiner. 

The  Fables  of  JESsop.  A  New  Version,  chiefly  from  Original 
Sources.  By  Rev.  T^os.  Jaxbs.  38th  Thousand.  With  100  Woodcuts.  Post  8vo. 
2s.  6d. 

'The  present  edition  is  remarkable  for  the  clearness  and  conciseness  with  which  each 
tale  is  narrated.  Mr.  Tenniel's  clever  and  exceedingly  graoeM  designs  are  alone  worth 
more  than  the  whole  price  set  upon  the  book.'— JSixamincr. 

^he  Story  of  Puss  in  Boots  told  for  Old  and  Young    j 

In  12  Illustrations,  by  Otto  Spxgktxs.    I2th  Thousand.    16mo.    It,  6d. 

*  Twelve  designs  ftill  of  excellent  humour.'~JV«am<n«r. 

JOHK  MUEEAY,  ALBEMARLE  STBEET. 


I 


MDREArs  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 

JOHN    SOUTHGATE, 

Solid  Ijeather  Portmaiiteau  Manafactarer, 

76,  WATLINQ   STREET,   LONDON. 


id  UBEFCL  of  tutf  yet  inretited,  u 

SOUTHGATE'S  FOLDINQ  FOBTMAHTEAU. 


Both  of  tluH  Purlr  } 


John  Bonthgate'i  lAdiM*  FortnuutMiu,  Ladiet'  Dmi  and  BoniiM  bunk*, 
LadiM'  Impaiiali,  and  Ladies'  Tiavalling  Tninki. 

Jl  trUi  Tnyi  ukd  MoTCKble  Dlvlaloiu  tot  Bnaottt,  nai  conUlnlDg  cm;  coiiTaileDra  tm  picUni 
Hivat«ty  L>reiBei,  Boniwli.  Linen,  ^fc.,  «nd  nud*  in  vvioai  itf  Lv  uid  iIm. 
TbrfimybeobUiliKdaf  tiiiTSiddIertirOut£lt«lhri>ngb[mtUiBldiigdam)  uidiifUKUiDnfKliini 

JOHN  BOCTTHQATE,  76,  WATXJNQ  STBJIBT,  LOSDON, 


42 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVfiRTISER. 


The  New  Gold  Fields^   Fraser  Biver,  California,  HCexico, 
Central  Amerioa*  Pern,  Chill,  Australia,  and  Hferw  Zealand. 

The  Aortett  ronta  to  all  F^irto  on  the  Wwt  GoMt  of  North  nd  South  Amf>riff>»  «8  alio  t> 
Briikh  (>dimhia,  AiiitMlia»  «Ml  New  Asalnd,  Is  tfaiitirfi  tte 

PANAMA     RAI  LWAY. 

la  TbrM  Bonn  end  a  Salf  from  the  JiUaatis  to  iSievPaoifie ! 

Thivagk  five,  SS  dolUn;  chUdren  wider  twelvv,  helf-piioe--«Dder  six,  qiiMl«r  ptkt 
Puaengen  allowed  Mlbo.  of  higgiige ;  all  above  that  welgfat  10  centa  per  Rw  Exprai 
IMght  for  Pasaeoger  tralna  1  dollar  80  oenta  per  cvfalc  foot.  Flnt-claaa  freight,  oompririBg 
Herehandte,  in  bozea  and  baleiu  50  oenta  per  coble  foot;  eeooad^clttfl^  li  cent  per  fki 
third-daaa,  1  cent  per  lb. ;  foorth-daas,  f  cent  per  lb. ;  flfth'^UHl?  i  eeat  pier  lb. ;  aM 
i  cent  per  lb.  The  STEAMERS  OF  THE  ROYAL  MAIL  OOMPANT  leave  SOUTH- 
AMPTON fortnlglitljr  for  Aaplnwall,  and  iteam  oonnMmication  isinalBli^MaJ^r  the  Flacii 
Mail  Company  between  Panama  aDdOAUfomla,lfexlco,  Pern,  and  €litll,-udty  the  *Raii«i7 
Oompanj  between  Panama  and  Central  America.  The  SALADiX  Steamer  aVao  aalla  regft- 
larly  ftom  LIVERPOOL— apply  to  Mr.  Holt;  and  flailing  veaaela  from  LoxmIoii— appfr  te 
Meem.  Oswald,  Eltae^  and  Co.    For  ftulhar  partiealan  apply  to  the  London  Agent  of  tk 

Oomimj^         9,   VBW   PALACE  YABD,   LOVDOK. 


TO  TOURISTS  IN  SCOTLAND. 
Foolscap  8Y0n  price  is. 

CROMARTY: 

atoubibt's  Ynrr  to  thb  vnawBLkCK 

aw  HOVH  HXLLBB, 

BT  HKSSNiAS  BIGKBOK. 

dlasgow:  Thokas  MIJBRA.T  and  Sov. 
E£nbiiigh:  Pat6k  and  KrrcHiB. 


ONLY  A  FEW  LEFT. 

Price  !«." 

Letters  from  the  Penmsola, 
Italy,  ftc. 

BY  EDWARD  WILKET. 

Incloding  LIsboD,  Chitra,  Mafra,  the  Tagns, 

Cadiz,   Seville,  Italica,  Xeres,   La  Carnca, 

Gibraltar,  Genoa^  La  Riviera,  Nice,  ^ 

*For  A  tourist  we  strongly  recommend.'— 

/BlXL 

London :  EETXiroHAX  Woaox. 


GALIGNANPS 

NEW  PARIS  mm. 


Compiled  from  the  best  authorities,  re- 
vised and  verified  by  personal  inspection, 
«itd  avraoged  -on  an  entirely  new  plan^ 
with  Map  and  Plates.  Royal  ISmo. 
10«.  6d,  bonnd ;  or  wi&ont  Plates,  7s.  6d. 
bonnd. 

London:  Sjmpios,  3Cabshali^  &  jDq.. 


Thixd  Sdiaon,  Fcap.  Svo.,  fis., 

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OF  FAMILIAR  QUOTATIONS 

FROM  BNGLI8H  AUTH0S8. 

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FOREIGN  LANGUAGES. 

QBIOINAL  AND  OOMPLBTB  BDITZOK8  OF 

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Ail 

Ahn's  German  Grammar    «.     .«     .,3  4 
M     French  Grammar      ..     ..     ...    3  4 

„     Italian  Grammar       4  4 

„     Spanish  Grammar 4  4 

w     ForfengneseOrammflr       ..     ..4  4 
„     Swedish  Grammar    ..     ..     .«    4  4 

«     Danish  Grammar 4  4 

w     Datch  Grammar 4  4 

M     Latin  Gramnjiar 34 

The  method  of  Atin,  now  of  European  cel» 
brity,  is  most  simple  and  rational,  and  is  emi* 
nently  adapted  for  Self-tnltion.  for  Scbool  iMV 
and  for  a  comparative  study  of  JSnuopem 
Languages. 

FOREIGN   DIALOGUES, 

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Salvo's  Spanish  and  English 
Monteiro's  Portugnese  and  Engtiah 
LenstrOm's  Swedish  and  English 
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Turkish.  Russian,  &  English  Vocabolaiy  3  f 

Published  by  Mr.  Frakz  THnor,  PnblidMI 
and  Fueelgn  Bcxtoeller,  3,  Brook  Street,  Gi«» 
venor  Square,  London;  and  at  3X  Ptinne 
Street,  Manchester. 

P.8.— Travellers  can  order  these  GranuBMI 
and  Dialogues  through  any  Contihetttal  JBoM 
'Seliei;  ] 

1 


MUERATS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  43 


ROM  E. 


■»♦■ 


J.    P.    SHEA, 

BKGLISH  &  AMEBICAN  HOUSE  AOENT, 

COMMISSION  &  GENERAL  FORWARDING  AGENT, 

11,  PIAZZA  DI  SFAGNA. 


At  this  Office  persons  applying  for  large  or  fimall  Fumisbed  Ap'irtments 
invariably  obtain  correct,  unbiassed,  and  practical  information  on  all 
matters  connected  witli  houses  and  household  management,  while  low 
and  fixed  charges  (for  real  services  only)  offer  safe  and  desirable  assist- 
ance to  both  proprietor  and  tenant,  as  testified  by  the  increasing  confi- 
dence of  traveUers  since  the  opening  of  the  establisimient  in  1852« 

Inventories  Takesi.    Furniture  let  on  Hire. 

Plans  and  Descriptive  Lists  of  Apartments  sent  by  Post  to  persons 
who  wish  to  secure  Apartments  for  the  season,  or  avoid  inconvenience 
at  the  approach  of  Carnival  or  £aster« 

J.  P.  SflBA  being 

A  LICENSED  SHIPPING  AGENT, 

persons  intending  to  visit  Eome  can  have  their  baggage,  or  other  effects, 
received,  cleared,  and  warehoused  until  their  arrival,  by  addressing  ^e 
packages  as  above,  and  consigning  them  to  the  following,  or  any 
otiier  respectable  agent, 

LONDON— Mr.  J.  A.  Ooddabd,  1  BOULOGNE  -^  Mr.   Bebnard, 


67,  Lower  Thames  Street ; 
Messrs.  Chapun  and  Co.,  17, 
Fish  Street  Hill;  Messrs. 
Olivier  and  Carr,  37,  Fins- 
bury  Squaare. 

LTVERPOOL  — Messrs.  Lansing 
and  Co.,  9,  Chapel  Street; 
Brewer  ami  Co.,  Temple 
Street, 

FOLKESTONE— Mr.  Fajctliqibb, 
Agent, 


18,  Qua!  des  Paquebots. 

PARIS  —  Lansing  and  Co.,  8, 
Place  de  la  Bourse. 

MARSEILLES— Messrs.  Giraud 
Fbebes,  44,  Rue  Sainte. 

LEGHORN— Hbnby  Duot,  Via 
Ferdinanda 

NICE— C.  H.  TnTBN,  General 
Agent,  2,  Boulevard  Chi«les 
Albert. 


44 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER 


■«i 


(•' 


SSOfh  Tlioiiiaiid. 

With  Illustrative  Wooboots, 
Post  8yo.,  58, 

MODERN 

Domestic  Cookery^ 

Founded  on  Principles  of  Economj 
and*Practical  Knowledge^  and  adapted 
for  l^riYate  FamiUes. 

BY  MRS.  RUNDELL, 

A  New  EdUicnt  thoroughly  revised, 
induding  aU  recent  improvemenU  in 
cuUnary  art. 

John  Mtibray,  Albemarle  Street. 


MALTA. 


VINCENT   BELLUTI, 

Dragoman  for  Egypt^  Syria^  Oreece, 

Turkey,  Periiay  and  aU  Parts 

of  the  East. 

Or,  if  i-equired,  caters  for  parties ;  pay- 
ing all  expenses  at  a  certain  rate  per 
day  for  the  trip.  See  Sir  T.  Tobin's 
*  Shadows  of  the  East.'  Reference,  Mr. 
G.  MuiR,  Library  and  Bookseller,  247, 
Strada  Reale,  Malta. 


ZURICH. 
J.  H.  KEREZ, 

CHEMIST  AND  DRUGGIST, 

RESPECTFULLY  announces  to  Tour- 
ists and  Visitors  that  he  prepares  and 
dispenses  Medicines  and  Prescriptions  ac- 
oording  to  the  English  Pharmacopoeia  witii 
the  purest  and  choicest  Drugs  and  Chemicals. 
J.  H.  Kebez,  having  been  a  principal  dis- 
pensing Assistant  at  one  of  the  first  Houses 
in  England,  hopes  that  his  experience  and 
attention  will  merit  the  support  and  confi- 
dence of  the  English  Nobility  and  Gentry. 

,    J.  H.  E.  keeps  constantly  on  bond  a  well- 
selected  Stock  of  the  most  popular  TCngiigh 
^tent  Medicines  and  Perfumery. 


TO  TOUBISTS  ft  TBAVEIXEB8, 

ynrOBS  to  the  Sea  Coast,  and  to  fbo&6  tiJ 
eqjoy  tlie'Romenade,  the  Bide  and  Din 
In  all  cases,  fervid  heat,  and  its  conoomitaal 
dust,  materially  injure  the  skin.  prodncBi 
sunburn,  tan,  freckles,  and  discoloratioml 
an  almost  indelible  character.  To  ob>m 
and  eradicate  these  baoefol  reeolts,  reeoofli 
may  with  confidence  be  had  to 

ROWLANDS'   KALYDOR,     , 

an  Oriental  botanical  preparatioiL  'WMMI 
resorted  to  ia  its  tfpebificGlmnieterstfa'M 
rough  purifier  of  existing  d^octs  §>i  an  eine 
tive  nature,  and  dlsobrorltuonci  of  the  dw 
or  as  a  preeerver  and  prsHRet^oC  Ita^alrMf 
bright  and  glowing  tints,  this         ,    -r,^..  ji 

ELEGANT  TOILETTE  BSQUISTCl 

has  in  every  instance  maintained  its  claim  U 
the  tide  of  •  THE  UNFAILING  AUflj 
LIARY  OF  FEMALE  GRACE.'  Diodta 
Summer  and  Autumn  the  invigorating  an 
refreshing  properties  of  Bowlakds'  Kixtimi 
will  be  found  singulatly  agreeable  -to 


the  effects  produced  by  temporary  expoadl 
to  solar  heat  upon  the  Face,  Neck,  Aim 
and  Hands  being  neutralized,  and  the  cM 
induced  by  relaxation  and  languor  di^idM 
by  its  power  of  sustaining  a  perfect  elarad| 
of  the  %ia ;  without  which  certain  detezfaA 
^on  takes  place ;— thus,  in  the  usual  periotip 
visits  made  to  the  coast,  BowLxim^  Kxivm 
is  indispensable  as  a  preservative  of  the  lH' 
after  SEA  BATHING,  from  the  irritatkt 
caused  by  the  diemical  action  of  saliM. 
vapour.    Price  U.  6d.  and  8s.  6d.  per  bottia 


The  heat  of  summer  also  frequently 
munlcates  a  dryness  to  the  hair,  and  a  t» 
dency  to  its  falling  o^  which  nuor  ha  (Mf* 
pletely  obviated  by  the  use  of 

ROWLANDS'   MACASSAR  OIL 

a  delightful  fragrant  and  tranq[)arent  v0 
paration,  and  as  an  invigorator  and  pov 
of  the  Hair  beyond  all  precedent. 


Nor  can  we  be  too  careful  to  pnreservel^ 
Teeth  fh>m  the  deleterious  effects  of  vegetti 
adds  (an  immediate  cause  of  tibothaiOfaeX4| 
a  systematic  emplogrment^  night  and  r 
ing,  of 

ROWLANDS'  ODONTO, 

OB,  PBASL  DENTIVBICB, 

a  White  Powder,  compounded  of  the 
and  most  fragrant  exotics.     It  bestows 
the  Teeth  a  pearl-like  whiteness,  ftees 
from  Tartar,  and  imparts  to  the  Gi 
healthy  firmness,  and  to  the  Breath  a  i 
purity  and  fragrance. 

Sold  by  A.  Eowland  and  Sons,  a©,  .„^- 
Gardmt  London,  and  by  ChemxsU  andiM 
fumerg. 

Beware  of  SpurionB  IniitatioiiiStt 

The  on^  genuine  of  each  bean  the     ' 
of 'ROWLiaroS'    preceding     qJx 
article  on  the  Wrapper  or  LabeL 


uStt 

1 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  45 

ro  Tourists  in  Britain  {I"trav'eS1SS^ 

n  neat  Portable  Yolumes,  profhsely  illastrated  by  Maps,  Charts,  and  Views  of 
he  Scenery,  and  containing  fiill  particulars  regarding  Hotels,  Distances,  and 
jrhatever  is  likely  to  proye  useful  or  instructive  to  the  Tourist. 

■nffland,  10/6. 


■BiTlisli  &ake  Bistrlot,  5/  A.  7/9. 
Wales*  Vortli  and  Bontb,  5/. 
ITortb  IValeSf  separatelj-f  3/6. 
Derby  and  iWarwlokf  eaob  2/. 
Devon  and  Cornwall,  2/. 
Bampsblre  (Zsle  of  ^BOlgrbt),  Z/t 
Oloucester  and  Bereford,  2/« 
Vorksblre,  2/6. 


Bootlandf  8/6. 

Big-lilands  (itnderson's),  10/6. 

TrosaoliSf  1/6. 

BtaffiA  and  lona*  l/6« 

Buttaerlandsblref  1/. 

BdinbnriTby  3/6  4k  !/« 

OlasffOWf  2/6  4k  Is. 


Ireland,  5/. 

Bublln,  BUlamej'f  eaeb  1/6. 


ROAD    AND    RAILWAY    TRAVELLING    HAPS. 

Carefally  oonstracted  from  the  Maps  of  the  Ordnance  Survey  and  other  AnthoriUes,  and 
containing  all  tiie  Roads,  Railroads,  Footpaths,  and  whatever  Information  is  likely  to  be 
required  by  the  Tourist  on  pleasure  or  business.  Mounted  on  linen,  and  neatly  bound  in 
portable  cases. 


Bnylaad,  32  x  22i.   ft/6. 
Bnffllsb  &akes«  19  Xi4.   2/6. 
IRTales,  B*.  4k  B.,  14  x  lU.  each  1/6. 
Beotlaadf  82  X  22i.  ft/6. 


Ireland,  20  X  I4i.  2/6. 
Germany,  17X24.   ft/6. 
Burope,  3  feet  l^  4.   ift/. 
Bootob  Connttes,  each  I/. 


Smaller  Maps  at  25.  6c?.  cmd  Is,  each. 
Just  published,  a  New  Edition  (the  l4th),  price  8<.  6d.,  of 

BLACK'S  PICTURESQUE  TOURIST  OF  SCOTLAND, 

IN  A  NEAT  PORTABLE  VOLUME, 

WUh  upwards  of  One  Hundred  Ultistrations,  consisting  of  Maps,  ChartSj 
Plans  of  Towns,  and  Views  of  Scenery, 

Evert  meaoa  have  been  taken  to  adapt  this  Work  to  the  requirements  of  the 
Tourist  of  the  present  day.  Each  Edition  has  undergone  important  changes ;  a 
great  deal  of  new  information,  relating  especially  to  the  hitherto  more  unire- 
quented  parts  of  Scotland,  has  been  added,  and  many  yaluable  notes  of  Tourists 
using  the  Guide,  and  kindly  offered  to  the  Publishers,  haye  been  advantageously 
incorporated. 

Of  the  picturesque  scenery  to  which  the  Volume  is  meant  to  be  a  guide,  a  plain 
and  intelligible  account  is  given  of  those  localities  most  worthy  of  the  Tourist's 
attention ;  and,  to  enliven  the  mere  topographical  details,  the  Editor  has  occa- 
sionally introduced  Traditionary  and  Historical  Illustrations,  and  suitable  extracts 
from  well-known  authors. 

A  few  Copies  have  been  printed  on  thin  paper  for  the  use  of  Pedestrians, 


Edinburgh  ;  A.  &  0.  BLACK.    London  :  LONGMAN  &  00. ; 
and  SMITH  &  SON,  Strand  ;  and  all  BookseUeis* 


I  UDKBArS  HANDBOOK  ADTERTISER. 

CORNWALL    MINING    DISTEICT. 

UINEBALOaT  AHD  OEOLO&T. 

i^TiHV  mtSBvni,  cnAPBi.  btbkbt,  pkfcxajkidb. 


VTESlt,      ' 


oaHAitaim. 


iTC.       [ 


STUDEN'TS  of  Xiaentagj  Hnd  GMloffr,  aoil  Touiiste  to  the  Soaoery,  Antiquili^ 
■EulMLnnor  Oirawill.  TlU  te  tnt««t(d  bjaiMl  to  tUaMoHinn.    The  (Mln)M 

■UDC«,  wlcji  parfoct  cryBUlLtuLlQiia^  for  which  the  ahoTe  Gountj  his   been  k>  J 
celehrated. 

100  KinBrali  BdrntiflcsUy  amnged  In  k  uae,  with  dncriptlve  Cattioi^ae,  fnn 
to  »I.  LtrgnSpeclmeiuiiuUl' Betlna  HabagtinyGahlnet,froni  SI.  lo  lol.  Moneita._ 
BelKUoM  and  flret-rale  Spedmecs  fWm  Ml.  to  WI.  «Dd  npwirda. 

QmIokImI  Baleati[UU.«impreheiiliDgG|iedmuuotU»  vuicanBacksof  theOoalk 
THJa  11.  Hpwirdi.  . 

■^  A  spKlmn  of  CarboBitB  ^1  Tron,  frmi  Wheal  Maudlin  Mine,  for  which  the  mm  ^^ 

ISDl-hubeeurehuedi  u  well  u  a  great  manj  Dthers,  prcgumed  to  be  nnrivaUed. 

Ag«nt  for  the  tale  of  Ardtiei  mannfiMtiired  by  th«  T,T7*wn  B£BPSHTII> 

COHPAHT  (nnder  the  Fatran^e  of  Her  H njeity  the  (tpioi,  eto.), 

Comprising  Cbininey-plerea,  Colamni  Balualnfles,  FooIb.  ObeUafa,  Vnses,  ChaUce*.  H._ 
Jugs,  TbEnnomelsrs.  iDluland^  Candlesticks.  Tolkl  Botlles,  Klngita^  gio.  1^  A 
uatcrtal,  Bililih  or  Foreign,  equals  tUs  ilone.  ellbeir  Hi  bmuuicy  ofcoloy-,  ot-tn  degiiS 


FOREIGN    CREDITS   AND    CIRCUUVR    NOTES. 

rPHE   NATIONAl    BANK   OF   SCOTr.AfJD   GRAKT    CREDITS    of   i 
■*■    aad  upwaida.  anlUbla  tot  Tr»»ellere,  Foreign  ResiaentB,  Mnilaiy  and  Naval 
on  Fonlgn  Servioe,  Emignuta,  ftc.,  and  alBO  fOr  Bueineu  pnrpoeei.  in  ail  tba  tm 
Dlacea  on   (he  OOiJTINENT,   MBDITEKRANEiN,   MADhTIEA,    EASr    anf 
BTA^.  r"'^  **°  HOPE,   AUSTRALIA  and  SEW  ZgALAND,  1 

These  CredlU  inaj  be  obtained  »(  the  H«d  Offlw.  end  at  the  GlasBow  and  H 
BiaMJm,  or  Uimugli  anj  of  the  other  Bianchea  ol  the  Bank.  •«•  u 

Hiiioiii,  Binx  OF  SoOTLuin,  EdtBberah,  April,  leSB, 


MURRArS  HAKDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  4 

BTANFOED'8  SERIES  Or 

POCKET    GUIDE    BOOKS. 


I^ll 

1 

& 

Itif 

,Sa- 

•iiiii 

1 

Bome  urd  or  book  detcribtng  (be 

re  he  tianllsl 

ttblck  wUl  be 

good 

hiilDqulrT.'-iWm. 

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c,.prl«iu.ed. 

I.  Tbe 

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■"'  ll! 

i.  Tbe  CbiOMl  UVa 

Do. 

Soi«i. 

3.  The  CatbednJ.  o 

f  EDgUad  ahd  Walel, 

r.i.J™" 

li.  «£ 

4.  Tta  lake 

11.  Fol 

■ndind  Belgium. 

S.  The  lile  o 

Wlgbt    . 

12.  Thr 

Rhiia 

The  PnMiBher  bag  iiUenipte^  to  produce  tern,  biOiftil,  anil  poititle  Pocket  Compmiana 
rur  Touijsli  at  ae  imiU  a  kM  as  l>  conileleDl  nitti  Ibe  inadnctloii  of  nottt  of  a  Diat-nla 

SunfoM'i  'Gold?  Book  Catalogne,'  mntilelng  Utts  of  Iht  beat  EDglOb  and  Foreign  OnUe 
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LondoD :  Eehubd  Siabtoui.  t,  Cbailng  Croaa,  E.  W, 

TO    TOURISTS    AND    TRAVELLERS. 


Cross,  Londi 

without  personal  attendaDo  ,      . 

Ct6,  OD  Muslin  or  SHk,  in  Rsan,  Moroeeo,  or  Rnssb  Case,  to  prarent  injury  or^ 
.,  aa  well  as  to  leesen  delay  in  undergoing  eiaminatlnn  abroad.     Resists  in' 
Uie  country  can  have  Pasaporls  obttuned,  completed,  and  forvarded  by  po«t. 

For  further  partieulara,  including  the  Forms  of  Application,  Cost  of  Pasaport, 
Visa.',  ftc.  4o.,  see  Stanford'i  Pasaport  Circular,  which  will  be  forwarded  per  poat 
on  iq^plication. 

EdwabD  StUipord  has  on  sale  at  all  times  the  beet  Cnglisli  and  Foreign  Uape, 
BondbookSj  and  Bailway  Guides,  Pocket  Dictionaries,  and  Courersatjon  Books, 

LONDON;  EDWARD  STAKFORD,  6,  CllABING  CROSS,  S.W. 


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