Gardens
Shelley Barkley
Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development
Published by:
Alberta Agriculture, Food and
Rural Development
Publishing Branch
7000 - 113 Street
Edmonton, Alberta
Canada
T6H 5T6
Editor: Chris Kaulbars
Graphic Designer: John Gillmore
Electronic Composition: Sherrill Strauss
Copyright ® 1999. All rights reserved by Her
Majesty the Queen in the right of Alberta.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical photocopying,
recording, or otherwise without written
permission from the Publishing Branch,
Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural
Development.
Printed May 1999
ISBN 0-7732-6143-5
Contents
Acknowledgements ix
Introduction 1
Woody Ornamentals 3
Home Landscape Planning and Design 4
How to Plant 5
Pruning Notes 6
Basic Pruning Principles 7
When to Prune 7
Deciduous Trees 8
Coniferous Evergreens 8
Vines 9
Browning of Evergreens 9
Autumn Needle Shed 9
Drought Damage 10
Winter Injury 10
Recommended Trees and Shrubs 11
Recommended Trees and Shrubs - chart 12
Height Selector Chart 35
Flowering Crabapples 41
Flowering Crabapples - chart 42
Roses
Winter Hardiness
Planting and Growing
Wintering
Roses - chart
Tree Fruit
Planting
Pruning
Fruit Production
Recommended Tree Fruit
Apples
Apples - chart
Apricots, Pears & Plums
Apricots, Pears & Plums - chart
Bush/Small Fruit
Getting Ready
Recommended Bush Fruit
Sandcherry Plum Hybrids
Bush Cherries
Sour Cherry
Currants and Gooseberries
Other Berry
Grapes
Native Fruits
Saskatoon
Chokecherry
Pincherry
Buffaloberry
Recommended Small Fruit
Lowbush Blueberries
American Highbush Cranberry
45
46
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47
48
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Raspberries 74
Rhubarb 76
Strawberries 77
Annual & Biennial Flowers 79
Planning Flower Beds 80
Starting Transplants 81
Handling Seedlings 82
Planting and Maintenance 82
Geraniums 84
Wintering Indoors 84
What to Grow in Alberta 85
Annual Flowers - chart 86
Speciality Gardens 119
Container Gardening 120
Considerations 120
Planting 121
Ideas for Container Gardening 121
Butterfly Gardens 122
Choosing a Site 122
Bird Garden 123
Set-up 123
Water Gardening 125
Water Gardening - chart 126
Wintering Aquatic Plants 136
Bulbs 139
Spring Flowering Bulbs 140
Selecting Bulbs 140
Location 140
Planting ! 141
After Flowering Care 141
Tulip 141
Narcissus 142
Crocus 142
Scilla 142
Other Spring Flowering Bulbs 142
Summer Blooming Bulbs 143
Gladiolus 143
Tuberous Begonia 144
Dahlias 145
Cannas 146
Perennials 147
Planting a Perennial Bed 148
Winter Care 149
Selections 149
Iris 149
Lily 150
Garden Chrysanthemum 151
Peony 152
Ground Covers 153
Description 153
Growth 153
What to Grow in Alberta 155
Perennials - chart 156
Lawns 189
Construction 190
Grading 190
Timing 191
Seeding 191
Starting Seed 191
Feeding 191
Mowing 192
Sodding 192
Preparation 192
Laying Sod 192
Initial Care 193
Maintenance 193
Feeding 193
Mowing 194
Recommended Mixtures and Rate of Seed Application 194
Where Lawns Can Be Watered 194
Where Supplementary Water Is Not Available 195
Low Maintenance Grasses 196
Vegetables 197
Considerations 198
Extra Protection 198
Planting Tips 200
Selector Charts for Planting by Date 201
Vegetable Planting Information - chart 202
Recommended Vegetable Cultivars 204
Herb Gardening 211
Planning and Planting 212
Propagating Herbs 213
Steps 213
Harvesting Herbs 214
Preserving Herbs 214
Herbs - chart 216
Glossary 223
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2016
https://archive.org/details/albertayardsgardOObark
Acknowledgements
Thank you to the following individuals for their contributions
producing this edition of Alberta Yards & Gardens.
Belinda Choban
leuan Evans
Lloyd Hausher
Andrea McNichol
Christine Murray
Paul Ragan
Clive Schaupmeyer
Mayumi Tanigami-Bunney
Jim Ross
Nigel Seymour
Muhammed Younus
Ron Howard
Brendan Casement
Refe Gaudiel
Jim Calpas
•
ntroauction
Gardening in Alberta can be a fun and interesting challenge. Of
the many books and references on the market that help you grow
plants for your yard and garden, very few can answer the
perennial question: "but what grows well in Alberta?77
Well here is a growers7 guide to make your gardening easier. Alberta
Yards and Gardens: What to Grow gives you the information you
need to successfully grow ornamental trees and shrubs, small
fruits and berries, flowers, vegetables, herbs and even water plants
in the extremes of the Alberta climate. With summer high
temperatures over 30 degrees Celsius and winter lows of minus 40,
gardening in Alberta presents an interesting environment for
either the hobby gardener or the specialist.
Building on the strengths of the earlier Alberta Horticultural Guide,
this new book updates and expands on many topics of interest to
the Alberta gardener. Tried and true tips for pruning trees and
shrubs and for wintering roses are combined with new sections on
speciality gardens to attract birds and butterflies. Or try your hand
at water gardening or growing herbs. Harvest and preserve your
favorite herbs and avoid paying expensive supermarket prices for
these delicious seasonings.
The wealth of information contained in this book can be applied
to a large rural or suburban yard or garden or to a small balcony
garden in the city. Whatever your needs, this new growers7 guide
can help make your Alberta garden a success.
Home Landscape Planning and
Design
Effective landscapes don't just happen; they are planned and re-planned
before holes are dug, plants are set in place and sod is laid. Planning starts
with defining the purposes of landscaping and deciding what will suit the
owners' lifestyles. Landscaping objectives vary from owner to owner but
typically include creating a showcase of beauty a pleasant recreation space,
an outdoor entertainment area, green playgrounds for children and perhaps
attracting wild life.
Ornamental plants and landscaping also often have value beyond their
aesthetic qualities and beauty. They can be used effectively to control
noise, glare, traffic, temperature, wind, solar radiation and erosion, so these
attributes should be factored into the planning process.
Time and money are important aspects to consider in a landscape design.
The long-term plan must consider the time or money available for routine
maintenance like lawn mowing. Landscape construction materials and
plants can cost tens of thousands of dollars over several years, so home
owners should keep the landscape plan within their financial means.
Libraries and book stores have many books on landscaping for “do-it-your-
selfers." Alberta Agriculture, Pood and Rural Development has a
publication called Landscaping Alberta Yards, Agdex 271/17-2, which is a
good source of basic landscaping information. In addition to books, several
computer software programs are available that assist in basic landscape
design. Be aware that plants listed in software from outside Alberta may
not be suitable for our climate; however, basic design features still apply.
How to Plant
Container-grown plant material can be planted throughout the growing
season. However, bare-rooted trees and shrubs should be planted in the
spring.
Tips
• Keep roots moist and protected from the sun and wind until planted.
• Dig holes large enough to accommodate the root ball. Be generous when
digging the hole.
• Carefully remove the plant from the container. All hard containers,
whether plastic or peat, need to be removed.
• If the tree or shrub is balled and burlap covered, cut or loosen the
binding but leave the burlap wrapping attached to the soil ball.
• Check the condition of the root ball. Look for encircling or girding roots,
and if any are present, prune roots on the outside of the soil ball to
promote new root growth. The soil ball must be kept as intact as
possible. If root pruning is not necessary, a light combing of the outer
surface of the soil ball will encourage new root growth.
• The top surface of root ball should be at or just below the existing
soil level.
• Work top soil beneath and among roots until the hole is filled. When
backfilling balled and burlap covered plant material, be sure all the
burlap is buried; any left sticking out will act as a wick, drawing
moisture away from the root ball.
• Tamp soil firmly before watering to ensure good contact between soil
and roots.
• Water thoroughly and top up the soil level with additional soil.
• Plants may take years to recover from transplant shock.
Within 15 metres of overhead utility lines, plant only small-growing trees.
Large trees like poplar, elm, ash and spruce will eventually grow into the
overhead line and will have to be severely pruned or removed. This type of
pruning will shorten their lives; making them susceptible to insects and
diseases, and at the very least, their natural form will be destroyed.
Pruning Notes
Pruning is as easy to do well as it is to do poorly. Applying a few basic
pruning principles will improve plant health and shape, flower display and
bark color. The time to prune and the techniques to use vary with the
species.
Figure 1. Careful pruning improves plant health and shape.
Basic Pruning Principles
1. Use the proper tool for the job and be sure it is sharp.
2. Visualize the eventual size; shape and height of the plant.
3. Removing diseased, broken or damaged wood may be enough.
4. Select the main stems of shrubs or scaffold branches on trees.
5. Remove weak crotches, crossed or rubbing branches, suckers and
watersprouts.
6. Thin the crown to well spaced, strong branches or stems, secondary
branches and laterals to allow for light and air movement into the
crown.
7. When removing branches, cut back to the branch collar, the swelling at
the base of the branch where it meets the stem or another larger branch.
When heading back, cut back to a lateral bud growing in the direction
you want the tree to grow. Do not leave stubs.
8. A general rule of thumb is to remove no more than 30 per cent of live
wood from the tree or shrub at any one time. It is better to remove too
little, rather than too much. Woody ornamentals can always be pruned
again next year.
When to Prune
Pruning is done at two different times of the year in Alberta. Dormant
season pruning makes the plant grow, while summer pruning will dwarf
the growth.
Major pruning is best done the first part of March through to the end of
April. Trees that bleed (birch, maple and walnut) are pruned when one
third of the leaves are unfolding, which is usually from May through June.
The threat of Dutch elm disease has prompted the endorsement of pruning
elm trees from October 1 to March 31.
Pruning after mid-July will trigger plant growth (instead of winter bud
setting), which threatens winter hardiness. Fall pruning leaves the
cambium layer open to the extremes of winter, which can damage delicate
plant tissue.
Prune spring and early summer flowering shrubs, like lilac, bridalwreath
spirea, flowering plums and cherries, after they have finished flowering.
These plants produce flowers on last year’s growth, so pruning before they
flower decreases the number of flowers. Summer and fall flowering shrubs
bloom on the current season’s wood, so they can be pruned while dormant
in the spring.
Deciduous Trees
Proper annual pruning begun early in the life of a tree is less damaging than
waiting until a tree is older. This early pruning will result in a strong tree
with an attractive shape.
Select a leader, the main stem of the tree, and then remove any additional
ones. Select vigorous side branches with strong crotches to serve as the
main structure for tree.
Maintenance pruning of established trees consists mainly of the following:
• removal of dead, broken or diseased branches
• removal of one of a pair of crossed or rubbing branches
• removal of water sprouts growing on the trunk and main branches, and
suckers growing from the trunk base or roots
• periodic thinning and heading back young branches to maintain a
compact plant
Coniferous Evergreens
The removal of entire branches on evergreens creates unsightly gaps that
will never fill in. The most commonly needed pruning on evergreens is the
cutting of new growth to make the trees bushier or to redirect growth.
Leader removal does not make the tree bushier; instead, the tree simply
produces two or three new leaders. These extra leaders are not strongly
attached to the tree and can break away. Unfortunately, this breakage
often occurs years after the multiple leaders form, leaving a disfigured tree.
Prune spruce late in the spring after new growth has elongated but before
new needles have hardened off. This growth can be cut with hand pruners.
Occasionally, spruce will become lopsided by growing faster on one side.
This situation can be corrected by cutting back the vigorous side into one-
year-old wood until the opposite side catches up. Repeat this step as many
years as necessary until symmetry is restored. Take care that pruning cuts
are not made into growth older than two years because cuts made into
older wood will result in the removal of the growing points of that branch.
Pinch the new growth of pines with the fingers after the candles have
elongated but before needles have opened out. If the growth is cut instead
of pinched, the needle ends will turn brown. Whether pruning spruce, fir
or pine, leave a minimum of 5 cm of new growth.
Side branches of spruce and pine are often removed from the ground up to
a height of 1 to 2 m. This removal is done for grass mowing, but since grass
often stops growing under these trees because of needle accumulation, it is
a questionable practice. An alternative is to remove the grass from the base
of the tree to 15 cm beyond the tips of the bottom branches, which will
prevent lawn maintenance equipment from damaging these branches.
The growth of spreading junipers can be kept in check by an annual
pruning. Be sure to cut into wood with needles on it.
Vines
Prune hops back at the ground in the fall and remove as they will come
from the ground in the spring. Remove dead wood from Virginia creepers
and head back to ensure branching. Clematis (C.) ligustifolia and
C. tangutica grow from last year's wood; they require thinning and
training. The removal of dead wood is often the only pruning hybrid
clematis require.
Browning of Evergreens
Discoloration of evergreen leaves is commonly caused by environmental
conditions, not necessarily by insects or diseases. Depending on the
severity of damage and type of evergreen, portions of or the entire branch
can turn yellow, brown, red-brown or reddish-purple. Some types of injury
result in the death of entire plants or portions thereof.
The key to the correct diagnosis of evergreen browning is careful plant
examination. Foliage color change is the most obvious symptom; however,
examining roots, branches, trunks and the ground surrounding the trees
may give clues as to the exact cause of the problem.
Here are descriptions of the major types of evergreen browning and
suggestions for prevention and remedial care:
Autumn Needle Shed
The loss of old needles inside evergreen conifers is a natural process,
although stress will intensify the needle drop. This drop is often blamed on
disease or insects. The foliage throughout the interior portion of conifers
turns yellow, then brown and finally drops off. This drop is most
pronounced in the fall and often coincides with leaf loss in deciduous trees.
Drought Damage
Drought-stressed trees gradually turn yellowish-green, then purple or light
brown. Discoloration starts at the top and progresses downward, and
moves from the tips of branches inward. Severely stressed trees will lose
needles following the same pattern.
Drought stress can affect any evergreens when water supplies are severely
limited and soil moisture is depleted. It may occur in shallow-rooted trees
that have been well watered for a number of years and then neglected. Soil
compaction, pavement and other obstructions may interfere with water
penetration and increase stress. Drought stress predisposes trees to spider
mite attacks.
Note:
No amount of water applied in the fall will reverse drought injury that
occurred during the previous growing season. A thorough, deep soaking
two or three times during the hot days of summer will ensure that plant
material will go into winter in the best condition possible.
Winter Injury
Springtime needle discoloration on previously healthy evergreens is often a
symptom of some form of winter injury. Winter damage has several
symptoms, depending upon the type of evergreen and the severity of the
damage. With cedar, leaf scales fade from green to light tan or reddish-
brown. Needle tips of spruce and pine turn brown and become dry. Winter
damage may occur on a few branches at the tree top only, on one side only
facing prevailing winds or buildings, or over the entire tree. Severe winter
injury may even cause the loss of most of the needles, and the plant can
die.
Dry soils are more likely to predispose roots to damage than soils that
contain a good moisture supply. Root injury may occur when the soil is
dry, and the injury is often worse during winters when there is little
snowfall. Winter root damage may not be noticed until the following
summer when the plants suddenly turn brown and die. Young trees are
often the hardest hit.
Reducing winter injury
Winter injury to evergreens can be minimized by using a few precautions:
• Avoid planting trees and shrubs near light-colored or reflective
structures.
• Damage is usually reduced in sites protected from the wind7 especially
in the chinook zone of Southern Alberta.
• Do not apply nitrogen fertilizers to woody plant material between mid-
July and September 15.
• Water evergreens during the first two weeks of October to ensure they
have sufficient moisture in the root zone to prevent root damage.
Repeat this watering early in the spring, once the ground thaws.
• Evergreens on the south and west side of buildings, especially under an
overhang, should be well-watered in the fall because they are very
susceptible to winter injury.
• Erect canvas, burlap or slatted screens on the south and west sides of
exposed small evergreens to prevent desiccation (drying). This approach
will shade the plants and prevent excessive moisture loss by the wind.
Screens should be about one foot away from the plant material. Do not
wrap trees and shrubs with burlap. Wrapping can cause plant damage
through overheating.
Recommended Trees and Shrubs
The plants in the following charts are general recommendations for
selections to grow under Alberta conditions.
The heights and spreads listed indicate the average that may be expected in
most cultivated garden soil, assuming the plants are adequately watered,
fertilized and cultivated, and are planted in a location appropriate to the
plant's requirements. Many of the larger shrubs, in the 3 to 6 m height
range, will make small trees when pruned and trained.
This publication is only a guide. Reputable nurseries may have many
wonderful, hardy selections available and can give advice on the best plants
for your area.
Common name Botanical name
Height
(m)
Spread
(■)
Notes
Coniferous (Evergreen) Trees
.
1
Douglas Fir
Pseudotsuga menziesii glauca
12
5
* 1
1
■
V '
1
Balsam Fir
Abies balsamea
10
4
Siberian Fir
Abies sibirica
10
6
# #
White Fir
Abies concolor
8
5
#*
■: ■- : ■ ■ v. ' • '
Siberian Larch
Lara sibirica
12
5
*
American Larch
Larix laricina
10
4
Weeping Larch
Larix decidua ‘Pendula’
2.5
2.5
Bristle-cone Pine
Pinus aristata
6
3
Eastern White Pine
Pinus strobus
12
6
Jack Pine
Pinus banksiana
12
5
© -
Limber Pine
Pinus flexilis
8
3
^1 u.
Lodgepole Pine
Pinus contorta latifolia
12
3
© ¥
Ponderosa Pine
Pinus ponderosa
12
6
©
Red Pine
Pinus resinosa
12
6
Scots Pine
Pinus sylvestris
12
6
# © *
Swiss Mountain Pine
Pinus uncinata
6
3
©
Swiss Stone Pine
Pinus cembra
10
3
# ©
White Bark Pine
Pinus albicaulis
10
3
# ©
lli
Blue Colorado Spruce
Picea pungens ‘Glauca’
12
5
Colorado Spruce
Picea pungens
12
5
*
Common name
Botanical name
Height
M
Spread
(m)
.
Notes
Fat Albert Spruce
Picea pungens ‘Fat Albert’
13
6
Hoopsi Spruce
Picea pungens ‘Hoopsii’
12
3
Kosters Blue Spruce
Picea pungens ‘Koster’
12
5
Engelman Spruce
Picea englemanii
12
5
Norway Spruce
Picea abies
15
8
*
Serbian Spruce
Picea omorika
10
4
*
White Spruce
Picea glauca
15
5
*
Black Hills Spruce
Picea glauca ‘Densata’
15
5
Coniferous (Evergreen) Shrubs
Cedar, Arborvitae
'
Brandon Cedar
Thuja occidentalis ‘Brandon’
6
2
W *3$ W
Emerald Green Cedar
Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’
6
2
mm*
Holmstrup Cedar
Thuja occidentalis
‘Holmstrupii’
6
2
Mk ~Mr
w
Little Champion Cedar
Thuja occidentalis
‘Little Champion’
2
1
mm*
Little Gem Cedar
Thuja occidentalis pumila
0.45
0.6
JL;
w w
Little Giant Cedar
Thuja occidentalis
‘Little Giant’
0.6
0.6
* *
Techny Cedar
Thuja occidentalis ‘Techny’
5
4
* *
Skybound Cedar
Thuja occidentalis ‘Skybound’
6
2
-At
W ^
Ijjjl plant has ornamental flowers
susceptible to fireblight
needs special growing conditions
0* only grow male plants
^ shade tolerant
requires sunny, well-drained location
requires winter protection
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
-))£ graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
plant attacked by the
honeysuckle aphid
Common name Botanical name Height
M
Spread Notes
(m)
Ware's Siberian Cedar
Thuja occidentalis ‘Wareana’
3
2
$■#
Woodwards Globe Cedar
Thuja occidentalis
‘Woodwardii’
1.5
1.5
M. -sfe ^
w ^
Siberian Cypress
■■■
Dwarf Balsam Fir
Microbiota decussata
Abies balsamca 'Nana’
jE : ;
*±k i'
Coniferous Shrubs
1 1 H BB
g§ Sf . ; H ■■ fM B . : - , ' : - . M ■ .
*
Blue Hetz Juniper
Juniperus chinensis
‘Glauca Hetzii’
0.6
1.5
Blue Pfitzer Juniper
Juniperus chinensis
‘Pfitzerana Glauca’
0.7
2
w
Gold Coast Juniper
Juniperus chinensis
‘Gold Coast’
0.75
2
w
Golden Pfitzer Juniper
Juniperus chinensis
‘Aureo-Pfitzerana’
0.75
2
w
Old Gold Juniper
Juniperus chinensis ‘Old Gold’
0.7
2
w
Common Juniper
Juniperus communis
0.6
2
Andorra Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Plumosa’
0.3
3
Bar Harbor Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Bar Harbor’
0.15
3
Blue Carpet Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Blue Carpet’
0.15
3
w
Blue Chip Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Blue Chip’
0.15
2
Blue Rug Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Wiltonii’
0.2
3
Common name
Botanical name
Height
(m)
Spread
M
Notes
Compact Andorra Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Plumosa Compacta’
0.25
3
Dunvegan Blue Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘DunvegaiKjflue’
0.2
2
Hughes Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Hughes’
0.3
3
Prince of Wales Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Prince of Wales’
0.15
3
Wapiti Juniper
Juniperus horizontalis
‘Wapitii’
0.3
3
Savin Juniper
Juniperus sabina
1
2
Arcadia Juniper
Juniperus sabina ‘Arcadia’
0.6
2
Blue Danube Juniper
Juniperus sabina
‘Blue Danube’
0.6
2
Broadmoor Juniper
Juniperus sabina ‘Broadmoor’
0.3
2
Buffalo Juniper
Juniperus sabina ‘Buffalo’
0.3
2
Calgary Carpet Juniper
Juniperus sabina
‘Calgary Carpet’
0.6
2
Hicks Juniper
Juniperus sabina ‘Hicksii’
0.6
2
Skandia Juniper
Juniperus sabina ‘Skandia’
0.45
2
Tamarix Juniper
Juniperus sabina
‘Tamar iscifolia’
0.45
2
<f§| plant has ornamental flowers
o . requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
susceptible to fireblight
. . honeysuckle aphid
s|>P requires winter protection
* needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
0* only grow male plants
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Common name
Botanical name Height Spread Notes
(m) (m)
Rocky Mountain Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
3
1.5
Blue Heaven Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Blue Heaven’
3
1.5
Cologreen Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Cologreen’
3
1.5
#
Gray Gleam Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Gray Gleam’
3
1.5
Medora Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Medora’
3
1.5
Moonglow Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Moonglow’
3
1.5
w
Skyrocket Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Skyrocket’
3
1.5
Tabletop Blue Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Tabletop Blue’
1.5
1.5
■m.
Tolleson's Weeping Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Tolleson’s Weeping’
3
1.5
Winter Blue Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Winter Blue’
0.8
2
w
Witchita Blue Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum
‘Witchita Blue’
3
1.5
Blue Star Juniper
Juniperus squamata
‘Blue Star’
0.3
1.5
w
I
Dwarf Mugo Pine
Pinus mugo pumilo
1
2
Mugo Pine
Pinus mugo mugo
2
2
Spruce
Compact Blue Spruce
Picea pungens
‘Glauca Compacta’
3
2
*
Montgomery Spruce
Picea pungens ‘Montgomery’
3
2
Common name
Botanical name Height Spread Notes
(m) (m)
.
Dwarf Alberta Spruce
Picea glauca albertiana
3
2
mi
Dwarf Norway Spruce
Picea abies ‘Ohlendorfii’
1.5
.
2
w
Nest Spruce
Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’
1
1.5
Broadleaved Evergreen Shrubs
Bearberry
| Kinnikinnick
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
0.15
2
41^ I
W i
Azaleas (check for selections available at local garden centres and nurseries)
Deciduous Trees
Mim
■ J
American Alder
Aims crispa
3
3
■gfe.
w
Speckled Alder
Aims rugosa
5
3
W
Ash
Black Ash
Fraxinus nigra
10
5
0*
Fallgold Black Ash
Fraxinus nigra ‘Fallgold’
10
5
*
Manama Ash
Fraxinus mandschurica
‘Mancana’
8
5
-m.
Manchurian Ash
Fraxinus mandshurica
8
5
Green Ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica
lanceolata
12
8
* j
|§| plant has ornamental flowers
requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
^ susceptible to fireblight
honeysuckle aphid
^ requires winter protection
needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
0* only grow male plants
^ graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Common name
Botanical name
Height
Spread
Notes
M
w
Marshall's Seedless Ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica
‘Marshall’s Seedless’
12
8
Patmore Ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica
‘Patmore’
12
8
#
Prairie Spire Ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica
10
5
‘Prairie Spire’
Summit Ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica
12
8
- ■-
‘Summit’
— - —
"~M Sj WBM : I
mmmMam
Chinese Paper Birch
Betula albo-sinensis
8
5
w
Paper Birch
Betula papyrifera
12
6
Chickadee Birch
Betula papyrifera ‘Chickadee’
12
6
River Birch
Betula nigra
5
4
w
Water Birch
Betula occidentalis
6
5
w
European Birch
Betula pendula
12
6
Cutleaf Weeping Birch
Betula pendula ‘Gracilis’
15
8
w
Weeping Birch
Betula pendula ‘Tristis’
12
6
w
Young's Weeping Birch
Betula pendula ‘Youngii’
5
10
w
Buckeye, Horsechestnut
iSSSSSSSSSBSi
—
I Ohio Buckeye
Aesculus glabra
8
5
* ... :
Caragana
Sutherland Caragana
Caragana arborescens
‘Sutherland’
5
1
Cherry, Plum
Amur Cherry
Prunus maackii
12
10
® *
Black Cherry
Prunus serotinia
6
5
e #
Chokecherry
Prunus virginiana melanocarpa
5
3
•
Common name
Botanical name
Height
(m)
Spread
(m)
Notes
Dropmore Mayday
Prunus padus ‘Dropmore’
10
10
9 *
Mayday Tree
Primus padus commutata
10
10
9
Muckle Plum
Prunus x nigrella ‘Muckle’
4
3
u #
Pin Cherry
Prunus pensylvanica
5
3
9
Schubert Chokecherry
Prunus virginiana ‘Schubert’
5
5
Wild Plum
Prunus americana
5
4
9
American Elm
Ulmus americana
20
15
Brandon Elm
Ulmus americana ‘Brandon’
15
10
Manchurian Elm
Ulmus pumila
10
8
u
Jacan Elm
Ulmus davidiana japonica
‘Jacan’
12
10
w
Japanese Elm
Ulmus davidiana japonica
12
10
Hawthorn
HHH
Arnold Hawthorn
Crateagus amoldiana
4
3
<# * #
Chocolate Hawthorn
Crategus erythropoda
5
3
9
Fleshy Hawthorn
Crategus succulenta
5
3
9
Snowbird Hawthorn
Crategus x mordenensis
‘Snowbird’
3
2
9 * •
Toba Hawthorn
Crategus x mordenensis ‘Toba’
3
2
9 * #
|§i plant has ornamental flowers
requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
^ susceptible to fireblight
^ requires winter protection
honeysuckle aphid
$|£ needs special growing conditions
^ plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
* it is illegal to
import elms into
cT only grow male plants
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
Alberta from areas
where disease
shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
occurs
j — — :_ — - —
1 Tree Lilac
H »ftj PTTi PTH g HTh
||«p^ WK-: - - ■■■ ^ —
Spread
(m)
rd
American Linden
Tilia americana
15
8
Dropmore Linden
Tilia x flavescens ‘Dropmore’
12
6
# o
European Basswood
Tilia cordata
12
6
# 0
Morden Linden
Tilia cordata ‘Morden’
10
5
# ®
Amur Maple
Acer tataricum ginnala
4
4
Baron Manitoba Maple
Acer negundo ‘Baron’
14
12
❖
Manitoba Maple
Acer negundo
14
12
Silver Maple
Acer saccharinum
20
15
w
Tartarian Maple
Acer tataricum
6
5
Mountain Ash
American Mountain Ash
Sorbus americana
10
6
0 #
European Mountain Ash
Sorbus aucuparia
8
6
0 * #
Green's Mountain Ash
Sorbus scopulina
5
4
• *
Pyramidal Mountain Ash
Sorbus aucuparia ‘Fastigiata’
8
4
0 * #
Russian Mountain Ash
Sorbus aucuparia ‘Rossica’
8
4
Showy Mountain Ash
Sorbus decora
6
4
0 *
Oak
| Bur Oak
Quercus macrocarpa
10
li°
LI
Pear
1 Ussurian Pear
Pyrus ussuriensis
8
5
0 * #
Poplar, Aspen, Cottonwood
| Assiniboine Poplar
Populus x ‘Assiniboine’
20
^15
|
Common name
Botanical name
Height
Spread
Notes
(m)
(")
m&NmMKm
Balsam Poplar
Populus balsamifera
25
15
a*
Brooks #4 or #6 Poplar
Populus x ‘Brooks #4’ or ‘#6’
20
15
Brown Twig Poplar
Populus tristis
20
15
c f
Griffin Poplar
Populus x ‘Griffin’
10
4
w
Northwest Poplar
Populus x jackii ‘Northwest’
20
15
Plains Cottonwood
Populus deltoides
30
20
d*
Prairie Spire Poplar
Populus x canescens
‘Prairie Spire’
10
2
Swedish Columnar Aspen
Populus tremula ‘Erecta’
12
1.5
m
Tower Poplar
Populus x canescens ‘Tower’
10
1.5
*
Trembling Aspen
Populus tremuloides
10
6
*
Russian Olive
Saskatoon
| Eh/t'UOIllts Ull'SUSlII'lliu
ri
Saskatoon
Amelanchier alnifolia
3
2
i§l
Altaglow Saskatoon
Amelanchier alnifolia
‘Altaglow’
5
2
9
~
Will
Black Walnut
Juglans nigra
15
15
W
Butternut
Juglans cinerea
12
12
w
Manchurian Walnut
Juglans mandshurica
10
10
<fp> plant has ornamental flowers
* susceptible to fireblight
t needs special growing conditions
d* only grow male plants
shade tolerant
requires sunny, well-drained location
0 requires winter protection
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
-)(f graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
plant attacked by the
honeysuckle aphid
Common name
Botanical name
Height Spread Notes
(m) (m)
Acute Leaf Willow
Salve acutifolia
15
15
Coyote Willow
Salix exigua
5
5
W
French Pussy Willow
Salix caprea
5
3
Golden Willow
Salix alba vitellina
15
15
w
Laurel-leaf Willow
Salix pentandra
15
15
Prairie Cascade Willow
Salix x ‘Prairie Cascade’
5
5
y . ^
Pussy Willow
Salix discolor
4
3
Red-barked White Willow
Salix alba chermesina
12
10
Siberian Silver Willow
Salix alba sericea
12
10
W
Deciduous Shrubs
Bitch
Dwarf Birch
Betula glandulosa
2
2
w
Swamp Birch
Betula pumila glandulifera
4
3
1
W I
Golden Broom
Cytisus ratisbonensis
1
1
® #
Purple Broom
Cytisus purpureus
0.45
1
® HI
Rock Garden Broom
Cytisus decumbens
0.5
1
0 #
Buffaloberry
•
Russet Buffaloberry
Shepherdia canadensis
1
1
Silver Buffaloberry
Shepherdia argentea
4
3
Burning Bush
Winged Burning Bush
Euonymus alata
2
2
w
Dwarf Winged Burning Bush
Euonymus alata ‘Compacta’
1
1
Maack's Burning Bush
Euonymus maackii
3
3
Spindle Tree
Euonymus europaea
2
2
!”
Botanical name
Height
M
Spread
M
Notes
Dwarf Narrow-leaved
Burning Bush
Euonymus nana
0.6
1
w
Turkestan Burning Bush
Euonymus nana
‘Turkestanica’
1
1
I Caragana
MS
Common Caragana
Caragana arborescens
3
3
Fern-leaved Caragana
Caragana arborescens
‘Lorbergii’
3
2
Golden Caragana
Caragana arborescens
‘Golden’
3
3
Walker Weeping Caragana
Caragana arborescens ‘Walker’
0.5
3
Weeping Caragana
Caragana arborescens
‘Pendula’
1
2
Globe Caragana
Caragana frutex ‘Globosa’
1
1
Pygmy Caragana
Caragana pygmaea
1
2
©
Shagspine Caragana
Caragana jubata
1
1
Tidy Caragana
Caragana microphylla ‘Tidy’
2
2
Cherry, Plum, Almond
llflllSlIlitt
1
Chinese Bush Cherry
Prunus japonica
i
1
0
Double-flowering Plum
Prunus triloba ‘Multiplex’
2
2
0
Flowering Plum
Prunus triloba
2
2
0 #
Mongolian Cherry
Prunus fruticosa
1
1
0
|§i plant has ornamental flowers
© requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
^ susceptible to fireblight
honeysuckle aphid
requires winter protection
needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
0* only grow male plants
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Common name
Botanical name Height Spread Notes
(m) (m)
Nanking Cherry
Prunus tomentosa
2
2
0
Purple-leaved Sandcherry
Prunus x cistena
1.5
1.5
0 #
Russian Almond
Prunus tenella
1
1
0
Sandcherry
Prunus pumila
0.3
1.5
® #
Western Sandcherry
Prunus besseyi
0.7
2
0 #
Chokeberry
| Black Chokeberry
Aronia melanocarpa
2
mi
#
Cotoneaster
■ , IMf
Brickberry Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster tomentosus
2
2
European Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster integerrimus
2
2
* #
Hedge Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster lucidus
2
2
**
Peking Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster acutifolius
2
2
**
Red Bead Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster submultiflorus
3
3
Currant
Albol Currant
Ribes missouriense ‘Albol’
2
2.5
0#
Alpine Currant
Ribes alpinum
1
1.5
*
Golden Flowered Currant
Ribes aureum
2
2
0 *
Small Leaved Alpine Currant
Ribes alpinum microphyllum
1
1.5
# *
Carol Mackie Daphne
Daphne x burkwoodii
‘Carol Mackie’
0.9
0.9
February Daphne
Daphne mezereum
0.6
0.5
0 #
Rose Daphne
Daphne cneorum
0.3
0.7
0 #
Dogwood
..... .
Tartarian Dogwood
Cornus alba
1
1.5
*
Gold-leaved Dogwood
Comus alba ‘Spaethii’
1
1
# *
Common name
Botanical name
Height
(m)
Spread
(m)
Notes
Mottled Dogwood
Comus alba ‘Gouchaultii’
>
1
# *
Purple Twig Dogwood
Comus alba ‘Kesselringii’
1
1
# *
Siberian Coral Dogwood
Comus alba ‘Sibirica’
1
1
**
Silver-leaved Dogwood
Comus alba
‘Argenteo-marginata’
I
1
# *
Variegated Siberian Dogwood
Comus alba
‘Sibirica Variegata’
1
1
# *
Variegated Dogwood
Comus alba ‘Elegantissima’
1
1
# *
Red Osier Dogwood
Comus stolonifera
2
3
*
Golden Twig Dogwood
Comus sericea ‘Flaviramea’
1.5
2
# *
Low Dogwood
Comus sericea ‘Kelseyi’
1
1
JhLr
White Gold Dogwood
Comus sericea ‘White Gold’
0.7
1
€ ♦
1
1 ;
.
American Elder
Sambucus canadensis
2
2
Golden Elder
Sambucus canadensis ‘Aurea’
3
2
European Elder
Sambucus racemosa
4
3
Golden European Elder
Sambucus racemosa ‘Aurea’
3
2
Golden Plume Elder
Sambucus racemosa
‘Plumosa Aurea’
2
2
Redman Elder
Sambucus racemosa ‘Redman’
3
2
f§| plant has ornamental flowers
requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
susceptible to fireblight
.+> honeysuckle aphid
requires winter protection
))( needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
C? only grow male plants
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Common name
Botanical name
Height
M
Spread
(m)
Notes
j Sutherland Golden Elder
Sambucus racemosa
‘Sutherland Golden’
2.5
2
i
|
Aurora False Spirea
Sorbaria x ‘Aurora’
1.5
2
•
Ural False Spirea
Sorbaria sorbifolia
2
3
•
Floraliz Forsythia
Forsythia ovata ‘Floraliz’
1
1
o
Korean Forsythia
Forsythia ovata
1
1
0 i§i:
Northern Gold Forsythia
Forsythia x ‘Northern Gold’
1
1
0 #
^aze^nuf
.
.
American Hazelnut
Corylus americam
2
2
W
Beaked Hazelnut
Corylus comuta
2
2
W
European Hazelnut
Corylus avellena
2
1
Albert Regal Honeysuckle
Lonicera spinosa ‘Alberti’
0.6
1.5
0
Arnold Red Honeysuckle
Lonicera tatarica
‘Arnold Red’
3
2.5
0
Beavermore Honeysuckle
Lonicera tatarica
‘Beavermore’
2.5
2
0 # ❖
Carleton Honeysuckle
Lonicera tatarica ‘Carleton’
2.5
2
0 *
Frosty Honeysuckle
Lonicera tatarica ‘Frosty’
2.5
2
0 *
Tartarian Honeysuckle
Lonicera tatarica
2.5
2
0 *
Dropmore Honeysuckle
Lonicera x bella ‘Dropmore’
2.5
2
0 #
Emerald Mound Honeysuckle
Lonicera xylosteum
‘Emerald Mound’
0.5
1
0 #
Miniglobe Honeysuckle
Lonicera xyleostoides nana
‘Miniglobe’
0.5
1
in #
Common name
Botanical name
Height Spread Notes
M M
Clave/s Dwarf Honeysuckle
Lonicera xyleostoides
‘Clavey’s Dwarf’
1
1.5
®
George Bugnet Honeysuckle
Lonicera caerulea edulis
‘George Bugnet’
1
i
® #
Sakhalin Honeysuckle
Lonicera maximiwoczii
sachalinensis
1.5
1.5
i
31#
Sweet Berry Honeysuckle
Lonicera caerulea edulis
1.5
1.5
1
Twinberry Honeysuckle
Lonicera involucrata
2
1.5
o
Zabel's Honeysuckle
Lonicera korolkowii ‘Zabelii’
2
2
II ❖
Hydrangea
Annabelle Hydrangea
Hydrangea arborescens
‘Annabelle’
1
1
«#
Pee Gee Hydrangea
Hydrangea, paniculata
‘Grandiflora’
1
1
« # *
Praecox Hydrangea
Hydrangea paniculata
‘Praecox’
1
t i
Snowhills Hydrangea
Hydrangea arborescens
‘Grandiflora’
0.75
i .
i
« • *
PL - mm
Ledum groenlandicum
0.2
1
wmd
plant has ornamental flowers
^ susceptible to fireblight
ijt needs special growing conditions
d" only grow male plants
shade tolerant
requires sunny, well-drained location •;
requires winter protection
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
plant attacked by the
honeysuckle aphid
^CHITTnFf i B8 i f
1
j|J
i *v :.n i r?fn »■ iMyi »i h* r» IbjPB ? rn r-i mw
i
Assessippi Lilac
Syringa x hyacinthiflora
‘Assessippi’
3
2.5
$
Pocohontas Lilac
Syringa x hyacinthiflora
‘Pocohontas’
3
2.5
e #
Coral Lilac
Syringa x prestoniae ‘Coral’
3
2.5
0
Donald Wyman Lilac
Syringa x prestoniae
‘Donald Wyman’
3
2.5
Hiawatha Lilac
Syringa x prestoniae
‘Hiawatha’
3
2.5
0 #
James McFarlane Lilac
Syringa x prestoniae
‘James McFarlane’
3
2.5
0 #
Minuet Lilac
Syringa x prestoniae ‘Minuet’
3
2.5
0 *
Miss Canada Lilac
Syringa x prestoniae
‘Miss Canada’
3
2.5
0
Common Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
3
2.5
•
Belle de Nancy Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘Belle de Nancy’
3
2.5
0
Charles Joy Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘Charles Joly’
3
2.5
0
Ellen Wilmott Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘Ellen Willmott’
3
2.5
0 #
Katherine Havemeyer Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘Katharine Havemeyer’
3
2.5
0 #
Ludwig Spaeth Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘Ludwig Spaeth’
3
2.5
0 #
Madame Lemoine Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘Madame Lemoine’
3
2.5
0 #
President Grevy Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘President Grevy’
3
2.5
0
Syringa x chinensis
Common Ninebark
Botanical name
Common name
Mockorange
Dwarf Korean Lilac
Syringa meyeri ‘Palabin’
Late Lilac
Syringa villosa
Miss Kim Lilac
Syringa patula ‘Miss Kim’
Persian Lilac
Syringa x persica
Royalty Lilac
Syringa x josiflexa ‘Royalty’
Rouen Lilac
11 Audrey Mockorange
Philadelphus x ‘Audrey’
1.5
1.5
©# *
1(1 Galahad Mockorange
Philadelphus x ‘Galahad’
1.5
1.5
© # *
III Minnesota Snowflake
l| Mockorange
Philadelphus x
‘Minnesota Snowflake’
1.5
1
© # *
| Snowbelle Mockorange
Philadelphus x ‘Snowbelle’
1.5
1.5
© # #
1 Waterton Mockorange
Philadelphus lewisii
‘Waterton’
1.5
1.5
« *
•'i
S
nna
Physocarpus opulifolius
2.5
2
©
President Lincoln Lilac
Syringa vulgaris
‘President Lincoln’
Syringa vulgaris ‘Primrose’
Syringa vulgaris
‘Souvenier de Louis Spaeth’
Primrose Lilac
Souvenier de Louis Spaeth
Lilac
|y| plant has ornamental flowers
susceptible to fireblight
* needs special growing conditions
d* only grow male plants
shade tolerant
requires sunny, well-drained location
requires winter protection
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
•§• plant attacked by the
honeysuckle aphid
Common name
Botanical name
Height
(m)
Spread
(m)
Notes
Dart's Gold Ninebark
Physocarpus opulifolius
‘Dart’s Gold’
1
1
0 #
Dwarf Ninebark
Physocarpus opulifolius
‘Nanus’
1
1
0 #
Golden Ninebark
Physocarpus opulifolius
‘Luteus’
2
2
0
I Spiny Panax
| .
Dahurian Potentilla
Acanthopanax sessiliflorus
Potentilla davurica
2
0.8
liiill
0.8
w*
Sutter's Gold Potentilla
Potentilla davurica
‘Sutter’s Gold’
0.8
0.8
® #
Abbotswood Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Abbotswood’
0.7
0.8
0
Coronation Triumph Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Coronation Triumph’
1
1
0
Gold Finger Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Goldfinger’
1
1
0 *
Goldstar Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa ‘Goldstar’
1
1
0
Jackman's Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa ‘Jackmanii’
1
1
0
Katherine Dykes Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Kathrine Dykes’
1
1
0
Longacre Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa ‘Longacre’
0.7
0.7
0
Moonlight Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Moonlight’
1
1
0
Primrose Beauty Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Primrose Beauty’
1
1
0 *
Red Ace Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa ‘Red Ace’
.75
1
Snowbird Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa ‘Snowbird’
0.7
0.7
0 #
n
Common name
Botanical name
V' ,, ’ ,,s . % , "" • >* ! vinV/? ” *
Height
M
Spread
(m)
Notes
Snowflake Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Snowflake’
0.7
0.7
0 #
Tangerine Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Tangerine’
1
1
•
Yellowbird Potentilla
Potentilla fruticosa
‘Yellowbird’
0.7
0.7
O #
Gold Drop Potentilla
Potentilla parvifolia ‘Ferreri’
0.6
0.6
0
Wineleaf Potentilla
Potentilla tridentata
0.15
1
0 #
I Cherry Prinsepia
Salt Tree
I Siberian Salt Tree
Halimondendron halodendron
o
Sea Buckthorn
Sea Buckthorn
Hippophae rhamnoides
Snowberry
Wolfberry
Symphoricarpos albus
Symphoricarpos occidentalis
Spiraea x bulmalda
‘Anthony Waterer’
© -
Billiard Spirea
Spirea x billardii
0 -
|§| plant has ornamental flowers
@ requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
^ susceptible to fireblight
honeysuckle aphid
^ requires winter protection
needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
cf only grow male plants
graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Common name
Botanical name
Height
M
Spread
(m)
Notes
Bridalwreath Spirea
Spirea x ‘Vanhouttei’
1.5
1.5
ft ©I:
Crispa Spirea
Spirea x bumalda ‘Crispa’
0.5
1.5
® © *
Fairy Queen Spirea
Spirea x ‘Fairy Queen’
1
1
9 # ©
Frobel's Spirea
Spirea x bumalda ‘Froebelli’
0.6
1
9
Garland Spirea
Spirea x arguta
1.5
1.5
•
Goldflame Spirea
Spirea x bumalda ‘Goldflame’
0.6
1
ft © *
Goldmound Spirea
Spirea japonica ‘Goldmound’
1
1
ft
Halward's Silver Spirea
Spirea nipponica
‘Halward Silver’
2
2
• ©!1
Korean Spirea
Spirea trichocarpa
2
2
• ©
Little Princess Spirea
Spirea japonica
‘Little Princess’
0.4
0.4
9
Shirobana Spirea
Spirea japonica ‘Shirobana’
0.6
0.6
9 #
Snowhite Spirea
Spirea x ‘Snowhite’
1.5
1.5
• # ©
Three-lobed Spirea
Spirea trilobata
1
1
9
J
Cutleaf Staghorn Sumac
Rhus typhina lacinata
3
3
w
Lemonade Sumac
Rhus trilobata
1
1
Smooth Sumac
Rhus glabra
3
4
Staghorn Sumac
Rhus typhina
3
3
| Amur Tamarisk
1 - ~ -
,n,
HI
\cj
”1
American Highbush Cranberry
Viburnum trilobum
3
2
«T
Alfredo Cranberry
Viburnum trilobum ‘Alfredo’
2
2
Dwarf Highbush Cranberry
Viburnum trilobum
‘Compactum’
1
1
W
I
EBBBBBi
l
Arrowwood
Viburnum dentatum
2
2
• #
European Cranberry
Viburnum opulus
2
2
0
Dwarf European Cranberry
Viburnum opulus ‘Nanum’
1
1
Snowball Cranberry
Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’
2
2
.. t
Nannyberry
Viburnum lentago
4
3
0
Wayfaring Tree
Viburnum lantana
3
2
0
Weigela
Centennial Weigela
Weigela x ‘Centennial’
2
2
0 #
Minuet Weigela
Weigela florida ‘Minuet’
0.6
0.9
ft- m
Pink Princess Weigela
Weigela florida ‘Pink Princess’
2
2
0 #
Willow
I
Blue Fox Willow
Salix brachycarpa ‘Blue Fox’
2
1.5
Dwarf Basket Willow
Salix purpurea nana
1
1
w
Polar Bear Willow
Salix silicicola ‘Polar Bear’
3
1
#
Wolf Willow
Elaeagnus commutate
2
2
Woolly Willow
Salix lantana
0.5
1
*
Woodwaxen, Greenwood
:
Vancouver Gold Greenwood
Genista pilosa
‘Vancouver Gold’
0.1
1
0 # %
Dyer's Greenwood
Genista tinctoria
0.6
1
0 #
i§i plant has ornamental flowers
requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
^ susceptible to fireblight
ot> . . honeysuckle aphid
requires winter protection
SfC needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
C? only grow male plants
(r graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
^ shade tolerant
hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Common name
Botanical name
Height
Spread
Notes
M
(m)
| Lydia Greenwood
Genista tinctoria ‘Lydia’
0.6
1
© # «
Engelman's Virginia Creeper
(self clinging)
Parthenocissus quinquefolia
‘Engelmannii’
10
#*
Virginia Creeper
Parthenocissus quinquefolia
10
# *
|§| plant has ornamental flowers
# requires sunny, well-drained location plant attacked by the
^ susceptible to fireblight
,+. honeysuckle aphid
requires winter protection
needs special growing conditions
plant has not had sufficient testing for a recommendation
d 1 only grow male plants
-))£ graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
shade tolerant
^ hardy in most of Alberta; borderline for chinook areas
Vines and Climbers
Bittersweet
Golden Clematis, Jackmanii Clematis, Hagely Hybrid Clematis,
Ville de Lyon Clematis
Riverbank Grape
Dropmore Scarlet Trumpet Honeysuckle
Common Hops
Engelmann’s Virginia Creeper (self clinging), Virginia Creeper
Climbing Roses
Ground Covers - up to 30 cm
Siberian Cypress
Andorra Juniper, Bar Harbor Juniper, Blue Carpet Juniper,
Blue Chip Juniper, Blue Rug Juniper, Compact Andorra Juniper,
Dunvegan Blue Juniper, Hughes Juniper, Prince of Wales Juniper,
Wapiti Juniper, Broadmoor Juniper, Buffalo Juniper, Blue Star Juniper
Kinnikinnick
Sandcherry
Rose Daphne
Labrador Tea
Wineleaf Potentilla
Vancouver Gold Greenwood
Dwarf Shrubs - up to 1 m
Little Gem Cedar, Little Giant Cedar
Dwarf Balsam Fir
Blue Hetz Juniper, Blue Pfitzer Juniper, Gold Coast Juniper,
Golden Pfitzer Juniper, Old Gold Juniper, Savin Juniper, Arcadia Juniper,
Blue Danube Juniper, Calgary Carpet Juniper, Hicks Juniper,
Skandia Juniper, Tamarix Juniper, Winter Blue Juniper, Common Juniper
Dwarf Mugo Pine
Nest Spruce
Golden Broom, Purple Broom, Rock Garden Broom
Russet Buffaloberry
Dwarf Winged Burning Bush, Dwarf Narrow-leaved Burning Bush,
Turkestan Burning Bush
Walker Weeping Caragana, Weeping Caragana, Globe Caragana,
Pygmy Caragana, Shagspine Caragana
Chinese Bush Cherry, Mongolian Cherry, Russian Almond,
Western Sandcherry
Alpine Currant, Small-leayed Alpine Currant
Carol Mackie Daphne, February Daphne
Tartarian Dogwood, Gold-leaved Dogwood, Mottled Dogwood,
Purple Twig Dogwood, Siberian Coral Dogwood,
Silver-leaved Dogwood, Variegated Siberian Dogwood,
Variegated Dogwood, Red Osier Dogwood, Golden Twig Dogwood,
Low Dogwood, White Gold Dogwood
Floraliz Forsythia, Korean Forsythia, Northern Gold Forsythia
Albert Regal Honeysuckle, Emerald Mound Honeysuckle,
Miniglobe Honeysuckle, Clavey's Dwarf Honeysuckle,
George Bugnet Honeysuckle
Annabelle Hydrangea, Pee Gee Hydrangea, Praecox Hydrangea,
Snowhills Hydrangea
Dart7s Gold Ninebark, Dwarf Ninebark
Potentilla
Snowberry, Wolf berry
Anthony Waterer Spirea, Bridalwreath Spirea; Crispa Spirea,
Fairy Queen Spirea; FrobePs Spirea, Goldflame Spirea,
Goldmound Spirea; Little Princess Spirea, Shirobana Spirea,
Snowhite Spirea, Three-lobed Spirea
Lemonade Sumac
Dwarf Plighbush Cranberry, Dwarf European Cranberry
Minuet Weigela
Dwarf Basket Willow, Woolly Willow
Dyer;s Greenwood, Lydia Greenwood
Small Shrubs - 1 to 2 m
Little Champion Cedar, Woodwards Globe Cedar
Tabletop Blue Juniper
Mugo Pine
Dwarf Norway Spruce
Dwarf Birch
Winged Burning Bush, Spindle Tree
Tidy Caragana
Double-flowering Plum, Flowering Plum, Nanking Cherry,
Purple-leaved Sandcherry
Black Chokeberry
Brickberry Cotoneaster, European Cotoneaster, FFedge Cotoneaster,
Peking Cotoneaster
Albol Currant, Golden Flowered Currant
American Elder, Golden Plume Elder
Aurora False Spirea, Ural False Spirea
American FFazelnut, Beaked Fiazelnut, European FFazelnut
Sakhalin Honeysuckle, Sweet Berry Honeysuckle,
Twinberry Honeysuckle, ZabeFs Honeysuckle
Dwarf Korean Lilac, Persian Lilac, Rouen Lilac
Audrey Mockorange, Galahad Mockorange, Minnesota Snowflake
Mockorange, Snowbelle Mockorange, Waterton Mockorange
Golden Ninebark
Spiny Panax
Cherry Prinsepia
Siberian Salt Tree
Billiard Spirea, Garland Spirea, Halward;s Silver Spirea, Korean Spirea
Alfredo Cranberry, Arrowwood, European Cranberry,
Snowball Cranberry
Centennial Weigela, Pink Princess Weigela
Blue Fox Willow
Medium Shrubs - 2 to 3 m
Weeping Larch
Ware’s Siberian Cedar
Blue Heaven Juniper, Cologreen Juniper, Gray Gleam Juniper,
Medora Juniper, Moonglow Juniper, Rocky Mountain Juniper,
Skyrocket Juniper, Tolleson’s Weeping Juniper, Witchita Blue Juniper
Compact Blue Spruce, Montgomery Spruce, Dwarf Alberta Spruce
American Alder
Saskatoon
Maack’s Burning Bush
Common Caragana, Fern-leaved Caragana, Golden Caragana
Red Bead Cotoneaster
Golden Elder, Golden European Elder, Redman Elder,
Sutherland Golden Elder
Arnold Red Honeysuckle, Beavermore Honeysuckle,
Carleton Honeysuckle, Frosty Honeysuckle, Tartarian Honeysuckle,
Dropmore Honeysuckle
Assessippi Lilac, Pocohontas Lilac, Coral Lilac, Donald Wyman Lilac,
Hiawatha Lilac, James McFarlane Lilac, Minuet Lilac, Miss Canada Lilac,
Common Lilac, Belle de Nancy Lilac, Charles Joy Lilac,
Ellen Wilmott Lilac, Katherine Havemeyer Lilac, Ludwig Spaeth Lilac,
Madame Lemoine Lilac, President Grevy Lilac, President Lincoln Lilac,
Primrose Lilac, Souvenier de Louis Spaeth Lilac, Late Lilac,
Miss Kim Lilac, Royalty Lilac
Common Ninebark
Sea Buckthorn
Cutleaf Staghorn Sumac, Smooth Sumac, Staghorn Sumac
Amur Tamarisk
American Highbush Cranberry, Wayfaring Tree
Polar Bear Willow
Large Shrubs/Small Trees - 3 to 5 m
Techny Cedar
Speckled Alder
River Birch, Young’s Weeping Birch
Sutherland Caragana
Chokecherry, Muckle Plum, Pin Cherry, Schubert Chokecherry,
Wild Plum
Arnold Hawthorn, Chocolate Hawthorn, Fleshy Hawthorn,
Snowbird Hawthorn, Toba Hawthorn
Tree Lilac
Amur Maple
Green's Mountain Ash
Altaglow Saskatoon
Coyote Willow, French Pussy Willow, Prairie Cascade Willow,
Pussy Willow
Swamp Birch
Silver Buffaloberry
European Elder
Nannyberry
Small Trees - 5 to 8 m
White Fir
Bristle-cone Pine, Limber Pine, Swiss Mountain Pine
Brandon Cedar, Emerald Green Cedar, Holmstrup Cedar
Mancana Ash, Manchurian Ash
Chinese Paper Birch, Water Birch
Ohio Buckeye
Black Cherry
Tartarian Maple
European Mountain Ash, Pyramidal Mountain Ash,
Russian Mountain Ash, Showy Mountain Ash
Ussurian Pear
Russian Olive
Flowering Crabapples
Tall Trees - over 8 m
Douglas Fir, Balsam Fir, Siberian Fir
Siberian Larch, American Larch
Eastern White Pine; Jack Pine, Lodgepole Pine, Ponderosa Pine,
Red Pine, Scots Pine,
Swiss Stone Pine, White Bark Pine
Blue Colorado Spruce, Colorado Spruce, Fat Alberta Spruce,
Hoopsi Spruce, Rosters Blue Spruce, Engelman Spruce, Norway Spruce,
Serbian Spruce, White Spruce, Black Hills Spruce
Black Ash, Fallgold Black Ash, Green Ash, Marshall's Seedless Ash,
Patmore Ash, Prairie Spire Ash, Summit Ash
Paper Birch, Chickadee Birch, European Birch, Cutleaf Weeping Birch,
Weeping Birch
Amur Cherry, Dropmore Mayday, Mayday Tree
American Elm, Brandon Elm, Manchurian Elm, Jacan Elm, Japanese Elm
American Linden, Dropmore Linden, European Basswood,
Morden Linden
Baron Manitoba Maple, Manitoba Maple, Silver Maple
American Mountain Ash
Bur Oak
Assiniboine Poplar, Balsam Poplar, Brooks #4 or #6 Poplar,
Brown Twig Poplar, Griffin Poplar, Northwest Poplar,
Plains Cottonwood, Prairie Spire Poplar, Swedish Columnar Aspen,
Tower Poplar, Trembling Aspen
Black Walnut, Butternut, Manchurian Walnut
Acute Leaf Willow, Golden Willow, Laurel-leaf Willow,
Red-barked White Willow, Siberian Silver Willow
Flowering Crabapples
Flowering crabapples are one of the most spectacular spring flowering
trees. They tolerate most soil types, from sandy to heavy. However,
planting these trees in extremely wet or dry areas, high pH soils and shade
will result in poor growth.
Almey Crabapple
Malm x ‘Almey’
5
Big River Crabapple
Malus x ‘Big River’
5
Columnar Siberian Crabapple
Malm baccata ‘Columnaris’
5
Hopa Crabapple
Malm x ‘Hopa’
5
Kelsey Crabapple
Malus x ‘Kelsey’
4
Makamik Crabapple
Malus x ‘Makamik’
5
Radiant Crabapple
Malus x ‘Radiant’
5
Red Splendor Crabapple
Malus x ‘Red Splendor’
5
Royalty Crabapple
Malm x ‘Royalty’
5
Selkirk Crabapple
Malus x ‘Selkirk’
5
Siberian Crabapple
Malus baccata
5
Sparkler Crabapple
Malus x ‘Sparkler’
5
Strathmore Crabapple
Malus x ‘Strathmore’
5
Thunderchild Crabapple
Malm x ‘Thunderchild’
5
f§| plant has ornamental flowers @ requires sunny, well-drained location ^ susceptible to fireblight
-
I
Spread (m)
!
Notes
Flower color
Leaf color
0
rosy-pink/white centres
burgundy maturing to
bronzy-green
4
i
® # ©
pink
green
;■
9*0
white
green
4
9 # ©
rosy-pink
green
4
II
9 :
pink double
red turning to bronzy-green
id
i
9 ©
deep rose
bronzy- red
4
it
® ©
medium pink
purple maturing to bronzy
green
1
0
deep rose pink
glossy green with red edge
i
0 * ©
dark purple
glossy, purple turns orange
in autumn
| 4
i
i|
0 ©
pink
bronzy-red
ii4
0 ©
white
green
4
||
rose-pink
green
3
,1
0 ©
rose-pink
bronzy-green
0 © *
dark pink
dark purple
^ hardy in most of Alberta,- borderline for chinook areas £ graduate from the Regional Woody Plant Test Program
Winter Hardiness
Roses are a favorite of many gardeners, yet the climate in Alberta can make
these beautiful plants a challenge to grow. Winter survival is a big factor in
keeping roses growing from year to year.
A number of tender roses require a protective mulching for winter survival.
Roses like the hybrid teas, with large double blossoms borne on long
straight stems, and floribundas, with flowers borne in clusters ever-
blooming from June until fall frost, are considered tender. Also included in
this group are grandifloras, which resemble hybrid teas but have slightly
smaller flowers in clusters, and polyanthas, which are short plants with
small flowers that bloom for a longer period than any other rose. Climbing
roses are also included in this group of tender roses.
Shrub roses are able to survive winters with little or no extra protection.
They vary in size and blooming habits. Shrub roses are easy to cultivate
and require the same general care as other shrubs.
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada has developed two outstanding series of
shrub roses: the Explorer and the Parkland series. These roses can be grown
on their own hardy roots rather than being grafted. The tops may be
damaged or die due to severe winter weather, but because they are on their
own roots, they will recover the following spring with new growth. If
winter die-back occurs, simply prune out the dead wood.
Planting and Growing
Soak bare-rooted plants in water overnight before planting. Plant tender
roses in a hole 35 to 45 cm deep with the graft union 10 cm below the soil
surface. If the root stock is so long that it cannot be planted properly, place
the stem at a 45° angle, then backfill in the hole. Be sure the graft union is
well buried.
Plant container-grown shrub roses in the same manner as any shrub. Do
not plant them any deeper than they were originally, whether in a
container or bare root.
Begin fertilizing all roses with a complete fertilizer such as 28-14-24 when
the new growth is 5 to 7.5 cm long. A constant moisture supply is vital to
rose growing; they require 25 mm of water a week. Avoid overhead
irrigation when watering roses, as this method causes leaf diseases.
All roses, whether tender or hardy, require at least six hours of direct sun
daily, with the heat of the afternoon sun being preferable to that of the
morning. Air movement through the planting site is necessary to help
prevent the foliage diseases such as powdery mildew and blackspot.
Roses prefer a well-drained, fertile, loamy soil, although they will grow in a
wide range of soils. They will not tolerate soils that are excessively alkaline,
acid or poorly drained. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil
before planting to improve the drainage.
Wintering
The wintering of tender roses begins in the summer. Stop fertilizing the
plants at the end of July. When cutting rose blossoms for cut flowers in
August, cut blossoms with shorter stems. In September, cut back the
water, but never let the plants dry out.
After several hard frosts, put the winter insulation in place. Just prior to
the soil freezing, soak each rose. Cut the tops back to a height of 25 to
30 cm. Mound each rose with 25 to 35 cm of insulating material such as
peat moss, dry leaves or clean straw. If the roses are in a windy location,
cover the mounds with burlap or spruce boughs to stop the insulation
from blowing off.
In the spring, remove the covering and insulating material at about the
same time the native poplars are leafing out.
Here is a list of recommended hardy shrub roses for growing in Alberta.
giiaai
—
Growth habit
Favorites
Altai
2
2
shrub
Austrian Cooper
1
1
shrub
Blanc Double de Coubert
1.5
1.3
shrub
Dr. F.L. Skinner
2
2
shrub
FJ. Grootendorst
1.6
1.3
shrub
Grootendorst Pink
1.2
1.2
shrub
Grootendorst Red
1.2
1.2
shrub
Grootendorst Supreme
1
1
shrub
Grootendorst White
1.2
1.2
shrub
Hansa
1.3
1.6
shrub
Harrison's Yellow
2
15
shrub
Isabelle Skinner
2
1.5
shrub
J.P. Connell
.75
.75
shrub
Marie Bugnet
1
1
shrub
Persian Yellow
1.5
1.5
shrub
Prairie Dawn
2
1.5
shrub
Prairie Joy
1.5
1.5
shrub
The Hunter
1.3
1
shrub
Theresa Bugnet
2
2
shrub
Species Roses
Altai Rose
Rosa pimpinellifolia var altaica
2.5
2
shrub
Austrian Brier Rose
Rosa foetida
2
2
shrub
continual ^ recurrent 5|C nonrecurrent everbearing
P |§1 - r .
_
Flower size
(cm)
Flower
continuity
Fragranc
e
cream
single
5-10
*
orange, fade yellow
single
5-10
*
#
white
semi-double
5-10
*
*
gold to yellow
double
5-10
*
bright red
double
under 5
*
*
pink
double
under 5
*
*
medium red
double
under 5
*
dark red
double
under 5
*
light pink, fade white
double
under 5
❖
fuchsia
double
over 10
*
*
dark yellow
semi-double
under 5
*
*
medium pink
double
5-10
*
yellow, fade cream
double
5-10
*
*
white
double
5-10
*
*
medium yellow
semi-double
under 5
*
*
medium pink
double
5-10
*
*
medium pink
double
5-10
♦
red
double
5-10
*
#
medium pink
double
over 10
*
*
white
single
over 10
*
dark yellow
single
under 5
3(c mild
^ medium
# strong
Growth habit
Common Wild Rose
Rosa woodsii
1
1
shrub
French Rose
Rosa galica
1.5
2
shrub
Prairie Rose
Rosa arkansana
1
1
shrub
Prickly Wild Rose
Rosa acicularis
1
1
shrub
Red Leaf Rose
Rosa glauca (rubrifolia)
1.6
1.6
shrub
Red Rose
Rosa rugosa
1.6
1.6
shrub
Rugosa Rose
Rosa rugosa alba
1.6
1.6
shrub
Shining Rose
Rosa nitida
.3
.3
shrub
Smooth Rose
Rosa blanda
2
2
shrub
Parkland Rose Series
Adelaide Hoodless
1.6
1.6
shrub
Cuthbert Grant
1
1
shrub
Hope for Humanity
1
1
shrub
Morden Amorette
.45
.45
shrub
Morden Blush
.75
.75
shrub
Morden Cardinette
.6
.6
shrub
Morden Centennial
1.3
1
shrub
continual
recurrent
)|( nonrecurrent
everbearing
wsmmm
Flower form
Flower size
(on)
Flower
continuity
Fragrance
pink or rose
single
under 5
*
#
light red
semi-double
5-10
*
rose, fade white
single
under 5
*
#
pink
single
under 5
*
#
pink
single
5-10
*
*
brilliant magenta
single
over 10
*
white
single
over 10
*
*
pink
single
under 5
*
pink
single
under 5
*
medium red
double
5-10
*
*
dark red
semi-double
5-10
*
*
blood red
double
5-10
*
*
carmine to dark rose
double
5-10
*
*
light pink, fade ivory
double
under 5
*
*
cardinal red
double
5-10
*
* !
medium pink
double
over 10
*
*
^ mild
^ medium
^ strong
N
nine Height (m) Spread (m) Growth habit
Morden Fireglow
1
.75
shrub
Morden Ruby
1
1
shrub
Winnipeg Parks
.45
.45
shrub
Explorer Rose Series
Alexander Mackenzie
1.6
1.3
shrub
Captain Samuel Holland
2.4
1.3
climber
Champlain
1
1
shrub
Charles Alhanel
.45
.75
gound cover
David Thompson
1.05
1.3
shrub
Frontenac
.8
.8
shrub
George Vancouver
.6
.6
shrub
Henry Hudson
.5
1
shrub
Henry Kelsey
2.2
2.1
climber
Jens Munk
1.3
1.6
shrub
John Cabot
2.7
1.75
climber
John Davis
1.6
1.5
climber
John Franklin
1
1
shrub
Lambert Closse
.85
.85
shrub
Louis Jolliet
1.3
1
climber
Martin Frobisher
1.6
1.3
shrub
Quadra
1.6
1.3
climber
Royal Edward
.45
.45
ground cover
Simon Fraser
.6
.75
shrub
William Baffin
2.1
1.6
climber
continual ^ recurrent nonrecurrent everbearing
Fragrance
3(c mild
^ medium
# strong
ruby red
dark pink to red
medium red
medium red
dark red
red purple
dark fuchsia
dark pink
medium red
white
medium red
medium pink
pink/red purple
medium pink
medium red
light pink
medium red
light pink
dark red
medium pink
medium pink
dark red
orange to red
double
5-10
double
5-10
double
5-10
5-10
5-10
double
double
5-10
5-10
double
5-10
5-10
5-10
double
double
double
5-10
5-10
5-10
5-10
double
double
double
double
5-10
double
semi-double
5-10
5-10
single
5-10
double
5-10
double
5-10
double
5-10
semi-double
semi-double
semi-double
5-10
semi-double
5-10
i ' i ' *
Iree bruit
Planting
Tree fruit can be grown quite successfully in Alberta. First, select a site
with ample protection against prevailing winds. Avoid low-lying spots and
south-facing slopes. Tree fruits prefer a well-drained loam soil with good
fertility.
Plant vigorous, healthy one or two -year- old trees of recommended prairie
hardy cultivars.
The planting hole should be large enough to accommodate the tree7s roots
without crowding or folding (see Woody Ornamentals on Flow to Plant).
Place the tree in the hole with the graft union above ground level. Fill the
hole with topsoil, working the soil around the roots, and then tamp it
firmly. Trees should be well watered during the first summer.
Pruning
The modified leader pruning system is the approach most commonly used
in Alberta. Try the following steps:
• First branch should be 45 to 60 cm from the ground, on the south or
southwest side of the tree.
• Succeeding 5 to 6 lateral branches should be 15 to 20 cm apart and
evenly distributed around the tree.
• Choose branches with a wide angle as these will develop into strong
scaffold limbs.
• Cut leader back to a good lateral branch after all scaffold limbs have
been selected.
• Shorten selected scaffold limbs by one quarter to one third and prune
out all other wood.
• Keep centre of tree open.
• Prune annually in the early spring to control tree size and to encourage
fruit spur formation.
• Remove broken, diseased or damaged branches and sucker growth when
noticed.
Fruit Production
A tree will not bear fruit until it is mature, so there is a delay of several
years from the time of planting to fruit bearing. Cultivars do differ in
maturity, though, so different varieties will mature at varying rates.
Most fruit trees require pollen from another cultivar for fruit production.
To encourage pollination, plant at least two cultivars of the same fruit that
have overlapping bloom periods.
For example crabapple, apple crabs and apples cultivars will cross-pollinate
each other. Plums and apricots need two different cultivars, blooming at
the same time, within the genus Prunus for pollination. Early flowering
plums can be pollinated by the Nanking cherry while the later blooming
plums can be pollinated by sandcherries. Pears need another pear cultivar
for a pollen source because the pollen is not compatible with apples.
Recommended Tree Fruit
Here are recommendations for general planting in Alberta. A nursery in
your locality may have other cultivars worth growing in your area.
Apples (Malus cultivars)
Most apples make excellent juice; however, they must be juiced before they
are overripe, as juice content drops off quickly.
Early season: Fruit ripens mid - late August
Mid season: Fruit ripens early - mid September
Late season: Fruit ripens mid - late September
1
ipIpilfwS
Heyer 12
straw-colored
5-6 cm
good for pies,
applesauce and juices;
fair for eating fresh
poor keeping
qualities; use only
where better quality
apples do not
produce well
Norcue
greenish yellow
with red stripes
4-5.5 cm
good for cooking
stores moderately
well
Norhey
greenish yellow
5-7 cm
good for cooking and
juice; poor for eating
fresh
fair keeping qualities
Norland
green striped
with red
6-7 cm
good for eating fresh
and cooking
turns mealy quickly;
stores well if
underripe
Parkland
greenish yellow
with red stripes
6-7 cm
good for eating fresh
and cooking
good keeping
qualities; tends to be
a biennial bearer
Westland
greenish yellow
with red stripes
7-8 cm
good for cooking; fair
for eating fresh
stores moderately
well
|
I
Battleford
greenish yellow
streaked with
red
6-7 cm
good for cooking; poor
for eating fresh
goes mealy quickly;
poor keeping
qualities; use only
where better quality
apples do not
produce well
Brookland *
green washed
with red
5-6 cm
good for cooking and
eating fresh
keeps six weeks
Carroll
pale green
washed with red
6-7 cm
excellent for eating
fresh and cooking
keeps ten weeks
* Varieties released from Alberta Horticultural Research Centre - now Crop Diversification Centre South
mg
Edith Smith
yellowish green
washed with
orange red
6-7 cm
good for cooking; fair
for eating fresh
poor keeping
qualities
Harcourt
green washed
with red
5-6 cm
good for cooking and
eating fresh
poor keeping
qualities j
McLean
yellow with
faint red blush
5-6 cm
fair for eating fresh;
good for cooking and
juice
stores moderately
well
Norda
greenish yellow
with dark red
overlay
5-6 cm
good for eating fresh
and cooking
good keeping
qualities
Norson
greenish yellow
washed with
dark red
5 cm
good for eating fresh
and cooking
good keeping
qualities
Patterson
greenish yellow
with red blush
6 cm
good for eating fresh;
excellent for cooking
stores moderately
well
September Ruby
light green with
red overlay
6-7 cm
good for eating fresh
and juicing
good keeping quality
Sunnybrook *
yellow with red
stripes
6-7 cm
good for eating fresh
and cooking
fair keeping qualities
• ' ■ ' -:vv ■■/v-c- )#. r .
if
Collet
light green with
pale red stripes
6-8 cm
good for cooking and
eating fresh; excellent
for pies
good keeping
qualities
Fall Red
yellowish green
with red overlay
7-8 cm
good for eating fresh
and cooking
excellent keeping
qualities
Goodland
green washed
with red
6-8 cm
excellent for cooking
and eating fresh
excellent keeping
qualities
Haralson
green washed
with red overlay
6 cm
good for cooking and
eating fresh
excellent keeping
qualities
* Vorieties released from Alberta Horticultural Research Centre - now Crop Diversification Centre South
I |j| ijj
green mottled
with red
good keeping
qualities; ripens very
late
good for canning, juice
and eating fresh
goes mealy quickly
Rescue
yellow with red
splashes
good for eating fresh;
poor for canning and
jelly
Renown
Rosybrook
good for eating fresh,
pies and canning
good keeping
qualities
Trailman
creamy yellow
with purple-red
overlay
good for eating fresh
and jelly; excellent for
canning
excellent keeper
fair keeping qualities
good for jelly and
canning
Osman
excellent for jelly
Columbia
yellowish with
red overlay
Crabapples
’ Varieties released from Alberta Horticultural Research Centre - now Crop Diversification Centre South
• ApnCOtS (Prunus R mandschurica and
P. sib erica crosses)
Apricots require cross-pollination, whether it be from a different variety or
a Nanking cherry. It is critical to have blossom overlap in the first three
days of flowering. They are not reliable fruiters because blossoms may be
killed by cold winter temperatures, late winter chinooks or early spring
frosts. Many cultivars are also biennial bearers. All cultivars are good for
canning or jam, but they may be too tart for use as a fresh fruit.
Apricots must ripen on the trees as the sugar content does not increase
once they have been picked. Sandy soils and sites with adequate air
drainage and good protection from the late winter and early spring thaws
are suited to growing apricots. It is worth trying to grow other selected
seedlings of Manchurian apricot.
• Pears (Pyrus spp. and cultivars)
Pick pears when they can be pulled away from the tree with a gentle tug.
Once picked, store pears in the refrigerator for two weeks; then take them
out and allow them to ripen at room temperature.
• Plums
Plums are self-sterile; so they must be cross pollinated. The pollination of
plums is complex because different family grouping of plums are self-
sterile. Native plums should serve as pollinators for either Japanese plums
or Japanese-native plum hybrids as long as both plants are blooming at the
same time.
Blooming periods
Central Alberta Southern Alberta
Early season: May 9-17 2 weeks earlier
Late season: May 16 - 26 2 weeks early
Note: For information on the Evans Cherry, please see the Bush/Small
Fruit section.
* Varieties released from Alberta Horticultural Research Centre - now Crop Diversification Centre South
1 — 1
.
g-K
Norther
bright red skin,
yellow flesh
3.5 cm
good for eating fresh;
poor for canning and
preserves
Native Plum Hybrid (P nigra x P. sa/iand)
Mid-season
Perfection
dark red skin,
light yellow
flesh
3.5 cm
good for canning,
preserves and eating
fresh
Prairie
dark red skin,
orange yellow
flesh
4.5 cm
good for canning,
preserves and eating
fresh
Late Season
mm
Pembina
skin red with
blue bloom,
flesh yellow
4-5 cm
excellent for eating
fresh; good for
canning; poor for
preserves
Japanese Plums ( Prunus salidnd)
Early Season
Brookgold *
yellow skin with
red blush, flesh
yellow
2.5-3 cm
good for eating fresh
and canning; poor for
preserves
freestone
Pitsin #5, 9, 10
greenish yellow
skin, flesh light
green
2.5-3.5 cm
good for preserves and
eating fresh; poor for
canning
Pitsin #5 is
freestone
Pitsin #12
red skin, flesh
yellow-orange
2 .5-3.5 cm
good for eating fresh
and jam; poor for
canning
/" '
Brookred *
dull dark red
fruit, pale
orange flesh
4-5 cm
excellent for preserves;
good for eating fresh
and canning
Bush/Small
1 ait
Getting Ready
Choose a site for these crops that has wind protection to the north, south
and west. Strong winds can dehydrate the soil and plants and do physical
damage to the plants and fruit. The planting site will need some air
circulation to prevent disease. In addition, the soil should be well-drained
and high in organic matter. A source of water for irrigation will ensure
good fruit production.
Summer fallow the planting site for one season before planting to help rid
the site of weeds. Cultivation is also an excellent way to incorporate
organic matter into the soil. When planting, be sure to use recommended
cultivars that are disease-free.
Good weed control is a must to remove competition for the crop once it is
planted. Mulching is a good way to control weeds without disturbing the
soil. Mulch will also help retain soil moisture and keep plant roots cool.
Materials like dried grass clippings, sawdust or peat moss can be used for
mulch. If a lawn herbicide has been used, only collect the clippings after
the lawn has been mowed six times.
Recommended Bush Fruit
• Sandcherry Plum Hybrids (Primus spp.j
Hybrids between plums and sandcherries have larger, sweeter fruit than
sandcherry but may not be as hardy. Cultivars will pollinate each other,
but a sandcherry planted close by will ensure cross-pollination.
Mid to late season
Alace
purple skin, blue bloom, green flesh, firm, 2.5 cm - good for eating fresh
and canning
Dura
green with purple blotches, light bloom, red flesh, 3.5 cm - excellent for
canning and jam
Manor
purple, light blue bloom, red-black flesh, 2.5 to 3 cm - good for eating
fresh, pies and jam; fair for canning
Opata
deep purple skin, light blue bloom, green-yellow flesh, soft, 2.5 to 3 cm -
good for jam and canning
Sapa
deep purple, light blue bloom, dark red flesh, firm, 2.5 to 3 cm - good for
jam, canning and eating fresh
• Bush Cherries (Prunus spp.j
Sweet cherries are not hardy in Alberta. Nanking and Mongolian cherries
require cross-pollination.
Mongolian Cherry ( Prunus fruticosa)
selected seedlings - dark red skin - use for canning, jams, jellies, pies and
wine
Nanking Cherry (Primus tomentosa)
selected seedlings - bright red skin, 1 to 1.5 cm - use for jams, jellies, pies
and wine
Sandcherry (Prunus besseyi)
selected seedlings
• Sour Cherry
Montmorency
self- fruitful, 1 to 2 cm - use for eating fresh, cooking, jam and wine
Meteor
self-fruitful, bright red skin, yellow flesh, 1 to 2 cm - use for eating fresh,
cooking, jam and wine
Northstar
bright dark red skin, yellow flesh - use for eating fresh, cooking, jam and
wine
Evans
self-fruitful, bright red skin, yellow flesh - use for eating fresh, cooking,
jam and wine - fruit ripens late July
Other selected seedlings
• Currants and Gooseberries (Ribes sppj
Red, White and Albol currants bear most of their fruit on spurs of two and
three-year- old wood. Gooseberries bear fruit along the sides of one-year
shoots and also on the spurs of two and three-year- old wood.
In the spring, one year after planting, remove weaker shoots. Leave no
more than six of the strongest first-year shoots. In the second spring after
planting, leave six shoots, with three two-year and three one-year shoots.
In the third year after planting, leave about nine shoots: three one-year,
three two-year and three three-year shoots.
Pruning this way will keep vigorous young shoots coming on to take the
place of wood more than three years old, which is generally less
productive. In subsequent years, remove the wood older than three years.
Black currants bear most of their fruit on one-year-old wood. Some
pruning may be necessary the first spring following planting to shape the
bush and limit the number of main branches to six or eight. Each
succeeding spring, leave three or four two-year canes and six one-year
canes. If the plant is more vigorous, a higher number of shoots can be left
unpruned. Cutting back the tips of black currants will reduce fruit
production.
Most currants are self- fertile but may set more fruit if two cultivars are
planted. For better black currant production, plant more than one cultivar.
Red currants
Red currants are useful for jam, cooking, wine and eating fresh.
Perfection
large spreading plants - flavorful berries
Red Cross
large vigorous bushes - short to medium clusters of round, glossy bright,
light red berries
Red Lake
bright red, medium-large berries on medium-long clusters
White currants
White currants are useful for jam, cooking, wine and eating fresh.
Large White
large amber-colored, mild flavored fruit
White Imperial
high-yielding plant
Black currants
Black currants are useful for jam, juice, cooking and wine.
Boskoop
pea-size fruit
Consort
small fruit on medium length clusters
Magnus
medium to medium-large fruit, even ripening - cool spring weather will
cause fruit to drop
Willoughby
resistant to mildew - good quality fruit - self fruitful
Ben Nevis
resistant to mildew - medium size fruit
Other currants
Josta
black fruit - good for jams and jellies
Missouri
(also know as Albol, Colorado, California, Golden, Clove, Cross, Buffalo,
Golden Flowering). There are golden, black and red fruited selections
Black Giant
black fruit - use for jam, cooking, wine and eating fresh
Gooseberries
Gooseberries are self-fertile. They can be used for jam, cooking, wine and
eating fresh.
Pembina Pride
vigourous upright bush, large berries7 fruit green at maturity - fruit good
for processing
Pixwell
large green berries, turning to bronze when ripe - good for jams and pies
Welcome
large, bright red tart berries - branches nearly thornless
• Other Berry
Sea Buckthorn (Hip>p>op>hae rhamnoides)
bright orange fruit, sour taste, better after light frost - male and female
plants are necessary for fruit production; fruit difficult to harvest
• Grapes (Vitis spp.j
Grapes can survive Alberta winters if grown close to a south-facing
building, but be aware that winter protection may be necessary. After
planting the grape plants, prune the plants back to two or three buds. In
the second spring, cut back last year’s growth to four or five strong buds.
Prune in early spring. In subsequent years, prune back all previous years’
vines, leaving no more than 30 buds on each plant. Be sure to remove
sucker growth as it is a poor fruit producer.
Although some varieties mentioned are self fruitful, planting two different
varieties will increase the fruit production. The river or wild grape can be
used as a pollinator.
Keep the plants well watered, so they can reach their maximum size.
Water the plants until late August, then withhold water to allow the
plants to harden for winter.
Once grapes are picked, they stop ripening, so allow them time to ripen on
the vine.
Beta
blue fruit, self fruitful - good for juice and jelly, but too sour and acidic for
wine
Fredonia
blue fruit - requires winter protection
Valiant
blue fruit, high yield, self fruitful - use for eating, jelly, juice and wine
Riding Mountain
worth giving a try
Native Fruits
• Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia)
Prune saskatoons early in the spring, after the severe cold weather has
passed but before bud break. Prune to control the bush height to 2 m.
Remove all diseased, damaged and weak growth. Cut off low branches,
and thin the centre of the bush to allow for air circulation. After plants are
six to seven years old, prune out a few five- to seven-year-old branches
yearly to encourage new and vigorous shoot growth.
Honeywood
2.5 m tall shrub - large (16 mm) flavorful fruit - later flowering than other
cultivars
Northline
1.5 m tall shrub, upright and spreading - 16 mm berries - produces at
younger age than other cultivars
Pembina
3 m tall shrub, upright, slightly spreading, oval - 14 mm berries
Smoky
2.5 m tall shrub, upright, spreading, round - sweet, 14 mm berries
Ihiessen
4 m tall shrub, round form - 17 mm berries - flowers earlier than other
cultivars
There are other cultivars available; check with your local nursery to see
what you can grow in Alberta.
• Ofikecherry (Prunus virginiana)
Cross-pollination of chokecherries will increase the fruit set.
Garrinton
8 to 10 mm fruit - bush 2.5 m tall
Goertz
black, juicy fruit, not astringent - 12 to 16 fruit per cluster
Boughens Yellow
yellow fruit - bush 3 m tall
Other selected seedlings
• Pincherry (Prunus pensyhanica)
Pincherries are tart cherries that are bright red and have rather large stones.
The fruit is in loose clusters of five to seven, each with a long slender stalk.
Mary Liss
fruit is three times bigger than wild fruit
Other selected seedlings
• Buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea)
The fruit of the Buffaloberry is bright orange-red (occasionally yellow). It
has a bitter taste, and the fruit is soft and difficult to harvest.
Recommended Small Fruit
• Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.j
Blueberries require a well-drained sandy, acidic soil (pH 4.5). A good snow
cover and straw mulch are necessary for the plants to survive the winter in
4E»
most areas. Most prairie soils are generally alkaline, so it may be a
challenge to grow blueberries successfully. It will be necessary to acidify
the soil.
Give the following varieties a try
IMorthblue
large dark blue berries
North Country
sky blue, sweet fruit - 1.2 cm diameter
North Sky
small sweet berries - plant is 30 cm tall
• American Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum trilobum)
American Highbush Cranberry has small, bright red fruit that is used for
jelly. The bush is 3 m tall.
• Raspberries (Rubus spp.j
Two types of raspberries are available to Alberta gardeners: either floricane
(summer bearing) or primocane (fall bearing) plants.
Floricane raspberries should be well sheltered. Flowers and fruit are
produced on second-year growth. Plant these raspberries on the north side
of an east-west shelter. In areas of low snow cover or in the chinook areas,
winter protection is necessary. Canes may be bent to the ground in late
autumn and covered completely with soil.
Each spring, cut off all the dead material, weak canes and any surplus
strong canes at ground level. Leave 9 to 10 sturdy canes per metre, with
canes being no closer than 15 cm apart. Canes with winter tip injury can
be headed back to live wood in the spring. New, tall canes should not be
cut back after July 1, as late cutting causes soft growth, which will not
harden off properly for winter.
Primocane, or fall bearing raspberries, produce fruit on the current
season’s growth. Production generally begins in mid to late August. Areas
with warm summers and long warm falls are ideal for primocane
raspberries. All the canes are cut to the ground in March or April each year.
i
1 Floricane Raspberries
Boyne
dark red berries, tart flavor, good for preserving - very hardy, very spiny
canes
Festival
j large medium-red fruit, good flavor - good for freezing, canning quality is
I poor due to light color
Honeyqueen
good size soft yellow berries - sweet flavor
| Killarney
large, bright red fruit - very spiny canes
Redbrook *
large, bright red sweet fruit - good flavor
Souris
sweet, tart fruit, excellent flavor
Try the following varieties
, Chief
' small to medium, bright red, moderately firm fruit - excellent for
| processing
Fraser
| large red, juicy fruit
Primocane Raspberries
Red River
I I medium red berries - canes sparsely spined - earliest cultivar
Double Delight
small, medium-red firm fruit - early
Summit
small to medium size, medium-red color fruit - canes have few scattered
spines
* Varieties released from Alberta Horticultural Research Centre - now Crop Diversification Centre South
Autumn Bliss
large, oval-conical, dark red berries - canes spiny and erect
Fallbrook
large, bright-red, sweet fruit - spiny canes
Black and purple raspberries are not hardy under Alberta conditions.
Cultivars worthy of trial if sufficient micro-climate can be provided are the
following: Wyoming (purple raspberry) and Lowden Black (black
raspberry).
• Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarharum)
Divide plants early in the spring. Allow at least one year before harvesting.
During the second season, one harvest can be made. In subsequent years,
two harvests can be made each season, but the number of yearly harvests
should be determined by the vigour of the plant. Plan the first harvest for
early to mid-June and the second in mid to late July. A deep, rich and moist
soil is preferred for these plants. Note: the redder the stalks, the less
vigorous the plant.
Canada Red
moderately red colored stalks - good vigor
Early Sunrise
similar to McDonald, intense red color - not as vigourous
McDonald
moderately red stalks - good vigour - excellent for pie fillings
Valentine
bright red stalks - almost free of seedstalk development
German Wine
large green stalks - most vigorous - suitable for juicing and wine-making
• Strawberries (Fragaria spp.j
June bearing
Bounty
medium to medium-dark red; moderately firm
Cavendish
medium to large fruit, deep glossy red, medium firm - prefers a sandy
location
Glooscap
medium to dark red, glossy fruit, medium firm - early to mid-season
Honeoye
bright, red moderately firm berries with tender skin
Jewel
large, firm, glossy-bright red fruit - good fresh or for processing
Kent
dark red, moderately firm berries - early to mid-season
Everbearing
Jubilee
plants hardy
Ogallala
medium size dark red fruit, firm flesh - processes well
Fort Laramie
medium to large fruit - freezes well - good for eating fresh
Day neutral
Fern
medium to high yield, firm, good textured fruit
Seascape
firm, large fruit with good texture, medium to high yield - most fruit
produced late summer, early fall
Tristar
firm, dark-red berries
WPT C
m q
Jl3 1/ C/ K J§ # z #/c# i
biennial Flower, \
The versatile annuals have been used for decoration and color since the time of the
pharaohs in Egypt.
&
<e
Planning Flower Beds
Here are a few pointers to keep in mind when planning flower beds.
Seed catalogues or reference books on annuals are full of information about
the growth habits and plant spacing of annuals. These references are also
full of inspiring pictures and tips for using these plants in the landscape.
Planting annuals in groups or drifts is more attractive than planting them
in straight rows. Choose annuals not only for their flower color, but for
their form, texture, foliage shape and color. Keep bed designs simple, and
avoid a hogepodge of unrelated heights and colors. A mass planting of one
variety looks modern and impressive.
A good rule of thumb to follow is to place the tallest plants at the back of
foundation plantings, graduating down to the shortest in the front. Island
flower beds have the tallest plants in the centre, with other plants
graduating outward to the shortest on the outside edge.
Do not be afraid to experiment with new cultivars, colors or even types of
annuals. Mixing vegetables or herbs into flower beds can add interest and
color. Carrot, beet or basil foliage has interesting form and texture, and as
an added bonus, these plants can be eaten.
Match the plant to the site. Cool-season plants in a hot area are bound to
burn up. Watch for reflective heat too, as this situation can increase the
temperature quickly.
c
m
m
m
m
When planning, keep in mind the time commitment and work involved in
the preparation and maintenance of flower beds. And plan to have an edge
that can easily accommodate the lawn mower where the lawn meets the
garden.
Temporary hedges can be made up of castor beans, sunflowers, cosmos and
kochia. In addition, annuals can also fill in or add a splash of color in shrub
or perennial borders.
White, pink and light yellow flowers and silver foliage make excellent
night gardens.
Starting Transplants
To get the maximum flowering from annuals, start plants indoors from
seed. If a greenhouse or a bright sunroom is not available, seed can be
started under fluorescent lights suspended 15 to 50 cm above the plant
trays. The most common mistake is sowing the seed too early, which
results in weak, spindly plants, so have a look at the seeding dates in the
charts on the following pages as a guide.
For seeding, use flats or shallow pots with adequate drainage holes. Use a
lightweight, porous soil-less mixture available from retail outlets, or mix
your own medium using equal parts, by volume, of sand and peat moss.
Instructions on the seed package will explain whether to cover the seeds
with soil or not. Mist the soil surface with enough water both to wet the
seeds and to settle the soil particles around them.
Covering the seed containers with plastic (i.e. kitchen wrap) will keep the
soil surface from drying out. Move the trays to a bright, warm spot out of
direct sunlight. Check the containers regularly to make sure the soil is not
drying out and that condensation is not building up on the plastic cover.
Condensation will lead to a disease called "damping off” that will kill the
seedlings.
Once the seeds sprout, remove the covering and mist or gently water the
seedlings, keeping the surface layer moist. Water-logged soils and
condensation at this stage will also lead to damping off.
Handling Seedlings
When the seedlings are large enough to handle (first true-leaf stage),
transplant 5 to 6 cm apart into another container. When transplanting,
handle the young plants by their leaves as their stems are easily damaged.
This damage will result in poor plant performance. Initially, water with a
water-soluble fertilizer such as 10-52-10. Weekly applications of a soluble
fertilizer such as 20-20-20, (mixed at a quarter strength of the label
recommendation) can be given thereafter.
About May 15, place the plants outside during the day to harden off prior
to planting. Expose the transplants to the sun gradually; immediate direct
sun will burn the delicate tissue. Gradually increase the length of time the
plants are kept outdoors, and protect them from frosts. The hardening
process takes about 10 to 14 days.
Planting and Maintenance -
Including Bedding Plants
After the risk of frost has passed, annuals can be planted in the garden.
Prepare the soil by adding a well-rotted manure, compost or peat moss to
loosen heavy soils. Incorporate a garden fertilizer at the rate recommended
on the container. Do not work the soil when it is wet. After cultivation,
rake the bed smooth.
If you are buying bedding plants, look for dark green, healthy plants that
are short, stocky and pest-free. Check the tag for height and flower color.
Do not be alarmed if the plants are not in flower; they will bloom faster in
the landscape if they are not in bloom when planted.
Transplant on a cool, cloudy day, and water the plants well the day before.
Plant into moist garden soil, spacing the plants at the recommended
spacing. Plant bedding plants at the same depth they were in the original
containers, making sure the soil ball is below the soil line. Water with
10-52-10, a starter solution, mixed according to the package directions. If
you are not able to transplant on the day of purchase, put the plants in the
shade and keep the soil in their containers moist.
Throughout the summer, fertilize once or twice with a soluble fertilizer
like 20-20-20. Deep, infrequent waterings are better than light waterings.
Deep waterings will encourage deeper rooted plants that are more drought
resistant. Water when the soil feels dry to the touch at 5 cm deep.
Watering is best done early in the morning, so the plant foliage can dry off
before night.
Mulching is a good way to retain soil moisture. Mulch will also help keep
weeds under control and keep plant roots cool. Materials like dried grass
clippings, sawdust or peat moss can be used for mulch. If a lawn herbicide
has been used, only use clippings collected after the lawn has been mowed
six times.
Remove the faded flowers (deadhead) to keep plants blooming. While
deadheading, watch for signs of insect pests and treat if necessary. Some of
the taller plants may need to be staked to keep them tidy. Use bamboo
stakes and twist ties.
Tips for success
• ageratum does best where conditions are not too hot or humid
• amaranthus does not like to be overwatered or overfed
• bronze-leaved fibrous begonias do better than green-leaved ones in hot
and humid areas
• avoid planting cockscomb until the weather is consistently warm in the
spring as cool weather prevents flowering
• remove coleus flower spikes
• keep the roots of New Guinea impatiens moist and cool when first
planted
• pinch petunias, snapdragons and pansies when first planted and then
again after their first flush to keep them compact and flowering freely
Geraniums
Zonal geraniums are the most common geranium grown. They are
propagated by cuttings from healthy plants or by seed started in late
January or February.
Ivy geraniums have a trailing habit, with ivy-shaped leaves, and the
delicate flowers come in a wide range of colors. They make great hanging
baskets, and ground covers. Ivy geraniums prefer shadier locations with
temperatures cooler than those preferred by the zonal geraniums.
Scented-leaf geraniums are grown for their fragrant leaves. Lemon,
peppermint, nutmeg and apple are a few of the scents available. These
plants can be grown as bedding plants, hanging baskets or container
plants. The leaves are used for making potpourris, perfumes and flavorings.
The Martha Washington geranium is popular for its large, colorful flowers.
Flowers are either single or double petalled and are often bi-colored with
decorative stripes. Martha's prefer cool growing conditions.
Wintering Indoors
Geraniums are planted and maintained the same way as any other annual,
but unlike other annuals, geraniums are often overwintered indoors.
Geraniums can be overwintered indoors in several ways. Cuttings, 10 to
15 cm long, can be taken from firm but not woody shoots at the end of
August or early September. Make the bottom cut immediately below a
node, and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Allow
the cuttings to dry on a countertop for a minimum six hours.
Fill a shallow pot with at least 8 cm of perlite, vermiculite or sand. Place
the cuttings into the rooting medium to a depth of 6 to 8 cm. Keep the
rooting medium moist but not wet. Place the container in a bright
location.
After the cuttings have rooted (6 to 10 weeks) transplant them into pots
filled with a sandy-loam soil. Place the plants in a sunny, south-facing
window. After the cuttings are established, keep the soil on the dry side.
Don't encourage much growth.
Pinch out the growing tips to keep the plants compact and bushy. Stop
pinching after March 15. A second crop of cuttings can be taken from
established plants as late as February and can be treated as above.
Another way of overwintering geraniums is to dig them up or remove
them from their planter boxes before they are damaged by autumn frosts.
Gently shake the soil from the roots. Do not cut the tops off. Hang the
plants upside down in a dark, cool (4 to 7° C) location, or dig up the plants
and store in pots or boxes in a cool, dark spot.
In February, bring the plants out of storage and cut them back. Place them
in a soil mix that drains well, then water and place them in a sunny spot.
Cuttings can be taken from the new growth and treated as above.
What to Grow in Alberta
The following charts show some general recommendations for annuals to
grow in Alberta. For more detailed information, visit your local nursery.
Finding the characteristics you want in the charts is very simple. Look to
see if the squares under the heading you want are filled with color. The
colored squares have the characteristic noted in the column heading. Note
that a forward slash (/) between two common names in the charts simply
means there is more than one common name for a particular variety.
^ rich soil
^ normal
^ sandy
lower color Special fe
Landscape and other uses
D—
o
CL
=5
CL.
CD
=3
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Ornamental seed pods/fruit j
Foliage prominent |
Fragrant foliage/flowers
Edible flowers |
Other features |
Under 15 cm j
E
Ol
LO
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■*3-
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<=>
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«=>
LO
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«=>
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Over 120 cm j
Border or mass planting j
Planters j
Hanging baskets |
Hedges/screens j
Climbers
Fresh cut
.E
Q
4c
1]
£
4c attracts birds and butterflies
^ poisonous
Soil Light Propagation Flower color
Botanical Name
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade :
Start indoor - weeks before frost 1
Seed outdoors - early spring ii
Seed outdoors - after last frost !
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
3:
o
Orange |
-a
CD
ex'
Balsam Apple
Echinocystis lobata
#
4-5
Basket Flower
Centaurea americana
#
Begonia, Fiberous/Wax
Begonia x semperflorens
#
16-24
Bells of Ireland
Moluccella laevis
*
10-12
Bishop's Flower/White Lace
Ammi majus
#
4-6
Black-eyed Susan/
Gloriosa Daisy
Rudbeckia hirta
#
n
6-8
Black-eyed Susan Vine
Thunbergia alata
#
4-6
Blanket Flower, Annual
Gaillardia pullchella picta
#
!
4-6
Blazing Star
Mentzelia lindleyi
#
Blue Lace Flower
Trachymene caemlea
#
6-8
Blue Thimble Flower
Gilia capitata
#
4-5
Browallia/Bush Violet
Browallia speciosa
#
6-8
:
^ rich soil ^ normal v sandy
^Flow
/er cc
»lor Spec
ial f«
iatur
es
fjj
*4 SBi
Landscape anc
other uses
a
CL-
CD
CL.
=5
CL.
CD
CO
Ornamental seed pods/fruit
Foliage prominent
Fragrant foliage/flowers
Edible flowers
Other features
Under 15 cm
15-24 cm
24 -50 cm
50 -90 cm
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm
Border or mass planting
Planters
Hanging baskets
Hedges/screens
Climbers
Fresh cut
Dried
—
4c
n
—
—
—
L
i
4c attracts birds and butterflies ^ poisonous
^ rich soil
^ normal
# sandy
4c attracts birds and butterflies poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Ogfi
t Propagation
Flower color
m
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
Tj
Canterbury Bells
Campanula medium
*
8-10
Cape Daisy
Venidium fastuosum
#
6-8
Cape Marigold
Dimorphotheca sinuata
#
4-5
Carnation, Annual
Dianthus caryophyllus
#
20
Castor Oil Plant
Ricinus communis
*
__
4-6
Charieis
Charieis heterophylla
#
4-6
Chillean Bellflower
Nolana paradoxa
#
8-10
China Aster
Callistephus chinensis
*
5-6
China Pink
Dianthus chinensis
#
Chinese Forget-me-not
Cynoglossum amabile
#
Chinese Houses/Innocence
Collinsia heterophylla
3-4
Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum carinatum,
C. coronarium, C. segetum
#
^ rich soil ^ normal # sandy
Soil Light Propagation Flower color
Botanical Name
Soil type r
Evenly moist !
>-
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade jj
Shade ‘
Start indoor - weeks before frost 1
Seed outdoors - early spring j
Seed outdoors - after last frost |
Inconspicuous flower f
White/night garden
Yellow 1
Orange 1
-a
CD
Clarkia & Rocky Mountain
Garland
Clarkia unguiculata, C. pulchella
#
Cleome/Spider Flower
Cleome hasslerana, C. lutea
#
4-6
Cloud Grass
Agrostis nebulosa
*
Cockscomb
Celosia cristata
#
4
Coleus
Coleus x
#
10
Common Immortelle
Xeranthemum annuum
#
4-6
Coreopsis/Tickseed
Coreopsis basalis, C. tinctoria
#
Cosmos & Yellow Cosmos
Cosmos bipinnatus, C. sulphureus
#
5-6
Creeping Zinnia
Sanvitalia procumbens
*
3
Cup and Saucer Vine
Cobaea scandens
*
6-8
Cupid's Dart
Catananche caerulea
*
6-8
Dahlia
Dahlia coccinea, D. pinnata
*
6-8
rich soil ^ normal ^ sandy
4E»
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
: .
M
Propagation
Flower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
<u
05
e
o
O
-a
CD
Daisy, Palm Springs
Cladanthus arabicus
#
12-15
Daisy, Swan River
Brachycome iberidifolia
*
4-6
Daisy, Takoka
Machaeranthera tanacetifolia
#
6-8
Daisy, White & Yellow
Chrysanthemum multicaule,
C. paludosum
#
6-8
Dames Rocket/Sweet Rocket
Hesperis matronalis
#
Dark Opal Basil
Ocimum basilicum
*
8-10
Desert Evening Primrose
Oenothera deltoides
#
6-8
Dill-leaf Ursinia
Ursinia anethoides
#
4-6
Drumstick Flower
Craspedia sp.
*
5-6
Dusty Miller
Centaurea cineraria,
C. gymnocarpa
#
6-8
Dusty Miller
Senecio cineraria
#
10-12
^ rich soil
^ normal
#• sandy
4c attracts birds and butterflies
poisonous
I
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
m
BH
■
|
Propagation
Flower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow j
Orange
-o
c§
Dusty Miller, Silver Lace
Chrysanthemum ptarmiciflorum
*
6-8
English Wallflower
Cheiranthus cheiri
#
8+
Everlasting, Rose
Helipterum roseum
#
Everlasting, Swan River
Helipterum manglesii
#
11
Everlasting, Yellow
Helipterum humboldtiana
#
Feverfew/Matricaria
Chrysanthemum parthenium
#
6-8
Flax, Scarlet/Flowering
Linum grandiflorum
#
Flora's Paintbrush
Emilia javanica
#
4-6
Flowering Kale/Cabhage
Bras sica sp.
#
4-6
Flowering Tobacco
Nicotiana alata
#
4-6
Fountain Grass
Pennisetum setaceum
#
4-6
Foxglove, Annual
Digitalis purpurea ‘Foxy Strain’
#
20
_
_
rich soil ^ normal # sandy
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Ornamental seed pods/fruit
Foliage prominent
Fragrant foliage/flowers
Edible flowers
Other features
Under 15 cm
15 -24 cm
24 -50 cm
50 -90 cm
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm
Border or mass planting
Planters
Hanging baskets
Hedges/screens
Climbers
Fresh cut
Dried
l
•
,
i
}
L
1
L
L
^ | 4c attracts birds and butterflies ^ poisonous
Ufa rich soil
^ normal
sandy
4c attracts birds and butterflies
poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
:
Warn
:
Propagation
Flower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
"a
CD
Q£
Impatiens/Garden Balsam
Impatiens balsamina
*
4-6
Impatiens, New Guinea
Impatiens ‘New Guinea’
#
Impatiens/Patience Plant/
Busy Lizzy
Impatiens wallerana
#
6-8
Japanese Hop Vine
Humulus japonicus
#
4-6
Job's Tears
Coix lacryma-jobi
*
4-5
Kenilworth Ivy
Cymbalaria muralis
*
n
Knotweed
Polygonum capitatum
#
4-6
Lantana, Trailing & Common
Lantana monevidensis,
L. camara
*
Larkspur & Annual Delphinium
Consolida ambigua, C. orientals
*
Livingstone Daisy
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis
#
10-12
Lobelia
Lobelia erinus
*
_
12
rich soil
♦ normal
^ sandy
4c attracts birds and butterflies
g poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Ligh
t
Propagation
Flower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
-a
G£
Lupine, Annual
Lupinus hybrids
*
Madagascar Periwinkle
Catharanthus roseus
#
Mallow-wort/Malope
Malope trifida
*
4-6
Marigold, African
Tagetes erecta
#
4-6
Marigold, Dwarf Signet
Tagetes tenuifolia
#
4-6
Marigold, French
Tagetes patula
#
4-6
Marvel of Peru/Four O'Clocks
Mirabilis jalapa
*
4-6
Meadow Foam
Limnanthes douglasii
#
4-5
Mesembryanthemum, Tricolor
Dorotheanthus tricolor
*
10-12
Mesembryanthemum, Varigated
Heartleaf
Aptenia cordifolia ‘Varigata’
#
10-12
Mexican Fire Plant
Euphorbia heterophylla
#
6-8
Mexican Tulip Poppy
Hunnemannia fumariifolia
#
4-6
_
^ rich soil ^ normal sandy
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Light
Propagation
Flower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
-a
o
Mignonette
Reseda odorata
*
3-4
Milkweed/Bloodflower
Asclepias curassavica
*
6-8
Monkey Flower
Mimulus x
*
10-12
Moonflower
Ipomea alba
#
8
Morning Glory
Ipomea tricolor, I. purpurea
*
4-6
Morning Glory, Dwarf
Convolvulus tricolor
*
5-6
Nasturtium
Tropaeolum majus
#
Nemesia
Nemesia strumosa
#
4-6
Nierembergia
Nierembergia hippomanica
*
8-10
Nigella/Love-in-a-mist
Nigella damascena
#
3-5
Ornamental Gourd
Cucurbita pepo ovifera
*
2-3
Pansy
Viola x wittrockiana,
V x williamsii
*
10-12
J
^ rich soil ♦ normal * sandy
Common Name
Botanical Name
m
■
Light
B
m
■B
B|1
Soil type
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
-a
&
Papermoon Starflower
Scabiosa stellata
*
5-6
n
Perilla/Beefsteak Plant
Perilla frutescens ‘Crispa’
*
4-6
Petunia
Petunia x
#
8-12
Phlox, Drummond/Annual
Phlox drummondii
#
4-6
Pimpernel, Common/Scarlet
Anagallis arvensis
#
6
Pimpernel, Flaxleaf
Anagallis monelli subsp. linifolia
#
6
Pincushion Flower
Scabiosa atropurpurea
*
5-6
Poppy, Alpine
Papaver alpinum
#
Poppy, Corn/Shirley
Papaver rhoeas
#
Poppy, Flanders
Papaver commutatum
#
Poppy, Prickly
Argemone grandiflora
#
6
Poppy, Tulip
Papaver glaucum
#
^ rich soil
^ normal
^ sandy
Flower color Special features Height Landscape and other uses
I c=
CL-
03
Q-
Z3
a-
03
CO
Ornamental seed pods/fruit j
Foliage prominent J
Fragrant foliage/flowers j
Edible flowers j
Other features |
Under 15 cm j
E
cvi
u~>
24 -50 cm j
50 - 90 cm
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm j
Border or mass planting j
Planters ij
Hanging baskets j;
Hedges/screens ;
Climbers
Fresh cut
03
Q
h
ri
1
4c
I
'1
\~
j
£
□
t attracts birds and butterflies Q poisonous
4^
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Light
Propagation
Flower cc
lor
fllllt
Soil type
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
Q£
Portulaca/Moss Rose
Portulaca grandiflora
#
4-6
Prairie Genetian
Eustoma grandiflorum
#
20
Purple Groundsel
Senecio elegans
*
8-10
Quaking Grass, Big
Briza maxima
#
Quaking Grass, Little
Briza minor
*
Queen Ann's Lace
Daucus carota carota
#
4-6
Rose Mallow, Annual
Lavatera trimestris
#
Ruby Grass
Tricholaena rosea
#
Russian Statice/Pink Poker
Psylliostachys suworowii
*
8
Safflower
Carthamus tinctorius
—
6-8
!
Sage, Clary
Salvia viridis
*
4-6
Sage, Mealy
Salvia farinacea
*
8-10
L.
^ rich soil ^ normal * sandy
^ poisonous
d>
4t attracts birds and butterflies
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
_
1
t
Propagation
f lower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
CD
CD
d
a
O
-o
&
Sage, Scarlet/Salvia
Salvia splendens
*
4-6
Salpiglossis/Painted Tongue
Salpiglossis sinuata
8-10
Satin Flower/Godetia
Clarkia amoena
#
Scarlet Runner Bean
Phaseolus coccineus
#
Sea Purslane/Garden Atriplex
Atriplex hortensis
#
4-6
Sleepy Daisy
Xanthisma texana
*
Snapdragon
Antirrhinum majus
*
6-8
Snow-on-the-mountain
Euphorbia marginata
#
Star Dust
Linanthus androsaceus
#
4-5
Statice
Limonium sinuatum,
L. bondvellii superbum
#
8
Stock, Evening Scented
Matthiola longipetala bicomis
*
5-6
Stock, Ten Weeks
Matthiola incana annua
*
5-6
* rich soil ^ normal ^ sandy
4P
Flower color
Special featur
es
Here
|ht
■
Landscape and other uses
C
Q-
Purple
CD
=3
QQ
Ornamental seed pods/fruit
Foliage prominent
Fragrant foliage/flowers
Edible flowers
Other features
Under 15 cm
15 -24 cm
24 -50 cm
50 - 90 cm
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm
Border or mass planting
Planters
Hanging baskets
Hedges/screens
Climbers
Fresh cut
-a
o
Q
4c
Pod
4c
—
*
4 £ attracts birds and butterflies ^ poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Light
Propagation
Flower color
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
-a
CD
Strawflower
Helichrysum bracteatum
*
4-6
Sunflower
Helianthus sp.
#
Sweet Alyssum
Lobularia maritima
#
4-6
Sweet Pea
Lathyrus odoratus
*
Sweet Sultan
Centaurea moschata
#
Sweet William Catchfly
Silene armeria, S. pendula
#
Sweet William/Wee Willie,
Annual
Dianthus barbatus
#
6-8
Texas Bluebonnet
Lupinus texensis, L. subcamosus
*
Tidy Tips
Layia platyglossa
#
Toadflax, Morocco
Linaria maroccana
#
Twin Spur
Diascia barberae
#
^ rich soil
^ normal
^ sandy
1 Flower color
Special featur
es
Heic
|ht
1
.
Landscape and other uses
■
!
i
111
'i
Purple
Blue
Ornamental seed pods/fruit
Foliage prominent
CD
O
CD
a
o
e
a
CT3
E
uZ
Edible flowers
Other features
Under 15 cm
•*3-
CM
LO
E
CD
un
'S-
Cvl
E
CD
O'.
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm
Border or mass planting
Planters
Hanging baskets
Hedges/screens
Climbers
Fresh cut
Dried
!
,
:
r
—
1
r
H
L
1
1
4c attracts birds and butterflies
g poisonous
Soil Light Propagation Flower color
Botanical Name
Soil type
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun I
Partial Shade
Shade
Start indoor - weeks before frost
Seed outdoors - early spring
Seed outdoors - after last frost
Inconspicuous flower j
White/night garden j
Yellow j
Orange j
-o
05
CxdL
Unicorn Plant
Probiscidea louisianica
#
6-8
Varigated Periwinkle
Vinca major ‘Variegata’
*
Verbena
Verbena x hybrida
*
10-12
Verbena, Scarlet
Verbena peruviana
*
10-12
Verbena, Tall
Verbena rigida
*
10-12
Viper's Bugloss
Echium lycopsis
*
6-8
Virginia Sock
Malcolmia maritima
#
Wheat/Plume Celosia
Celosia plumosa
*
4
Winged Everlasting
Ammobium alatum
#
6
Wishbone Flower/Torenia
Torenia foumieri
10-12
Woodruff, Annual
Asperula orientals
#
Zinnia
Zinnia elegans
#
4-6
^ normal
^ rich soil
^ sondy
4c attracts birds and butterflies
g poisonous
Container Gardening
Container gardening has been around since the time of the Hanging
Gardens of Babylon. Today plants are grown in any container that holds
soil7 whether it be an old pail or boot, wooden barrel, strawberry pot or a
cement urn.
Considerations
The size of the container has an important effect; the larger the container,
the longer the soil will stay moist. Baskets hanging in sunny locations
should be 25 to 30 cm in diameter while 15 to 20 cm baskets are suitable
for shady locations. Containers filled with media and then watered are
heavy, so they need proper support, whether they are sitting on the deck or
hanging.
Containers without drainage can still be used with the addition of a
drainage layer. The drainage layer can be made from washed gravel and
charcoal or recycled materials like broken clay pots, recycled stryofoam
cups, crumpled bedding plant cell packs or used toothpaste tubes.
)
Planting
Fill the container to 5 cm below the rim with a moist; light, moisture-
holding potting soil. The media can be used for about three years before it
will need to be changed, but top up the soil level each year by adding fresh
potting soil. Use trays to catch the excess water from the container to
prevent staining or ruining floor surfaces.
Choose plants of different heights, sizes and textures for interest, and
don't be afraid of adding vegetables and herbs. Group plants with the same
light requirements in the same container.
Containers are filled full with plants for instant color. Set the plant so
there is room for each plant’s entire root ball plus some additional soil to
fill in around each plant. For example, plant low edging plants like lobelia
7 to 12 cm apart or petunias 10 to 15 cm apart.
Water the container on demand. This may mean watering a container two
or three times a day during the summer’s heat. Create a water reservoir for
containers by taking a 500 ml soft drink bottle, filling it with water, and
pushing it upside down into the soil. The water will slowly run out,
keeping the soil moist.
Fertilize the containers every 7 to 14 days with a solution with fish
fertilizer, 15-30-15 or 10-52-10. Mix the fertilizer at half the recommended
rate on the label. Always fertilize when the soil in the container is moist.
Keep the plants deadheaded to keep them blooming all season long.
Ideas for Container Gardening
• petunias come in at least 100 different colors - are excellent for
container gardening
• portulaca comes in wide color range; mix them up with other flowers
• use tuberous and fibrous begonias, miniature roses, mums, gaillardia and
zinnia species as centrepieces
• impatiens are colorful and flower quickly - excellent in hanging baskets,
either alone or in combination with other flowers
• snapdragons, tall or dwarf, fit into baskets or pots
• colorful foliage of coleus varies in size, shape and texture - excellent for
contrast and background
• mix alyssum and annual gypsophila - excellent fillers
• use alyssum in raised containers where its fragrance can be appreciated
• helichrysum and dusty miller have silver foliage with variable shape and
texture - provide body and filler
• polk-a-dot plant is available in a rainbow of color foliage-mixes as well
with alyssum and gypsophila
• tall, cylindrical habit of dracaena spike works as core plant for
containers
• Chinese lantern plant has showy leaves and berries that hang out of
baskets
• pansies and violets compliment tall plants like snapdragons
• nicotiana and evening scented stock are very fragrant in evening -
excellent hanging basket fillers
• tall spike habit of cosmos and dianthus provide contrast in containers
• nierembergia and phlox fill containers evenly
• ivy plants are delightful in hanging pots
• do not overlook strawberries, bush cherry tomatoes and ornamental
peppers
• asters, dwarf and tall, can be used
• include a herb plant in each container; basil has several different foliage
colors, ranging from yellow to bronze to deep purple
• parsley can fill in the empty spots
• calendula grows fast and has lovely flowers; pinch the plant at
transplanting to force it to branch quickly
Butterfly Gardens
Choosing a Site
When choosing a site for a butterfly garden, look for a spot that gets at
least six hours of sunlight a day and is protected from strong winds.
Butterflies are attracted to hot colored (red, orange, yellow and purple),
flat-topped blossom flowers.
Damp spots in gravel, sand or soil serve as a watering hole for the insects.
Resting sites can be provided by placing stones in the sun around the
garden.
Remember the larva of butterflies are caterpillars, so to have the adults, a
few caterpillars have to be tolerated. Avoid using pesticides in the yard.
Food plants for adults and larva
Annuals
alyssum, aster, cornflower, cosmos, dahlias, globe amaranth, lantana,
marigold, nasturtium, salvia, stocks, strawflower, sunflower, tithonia and
, zinnia
Perennial
bee balm, chives, coneflower, coral bells, coreopsis, perennial geraniums,
I daylilies, hollyhocks, liatris, phlox, rudbeckia, sedum, violets and yarrow
| Shrubs/Trees
elm, honeysuckle, lilac, mockorange, poplar and willow
Bird Garden
f
ji
Set-up
Having a bird garden is as simple as providing food, shelter and water to
attract birds into the garden. A bird bath 2 to 7 cm deep supplies water for
drinking or bathing. Small birds like chickadees and hummingbirds prefer a
shallow bird bath.
Keep the bird bath clean and filled with fresh water. Place the bath close to
|| trees or shrubs, so the birds can dry their feathers and make a fast retreat if
J a cat shows up. Avoid creating an ambush site by putting the bath too
I close to shrubbery.
Provide nesting sites, bird houses or nesting structures to make the garden
I attractive to birds.
I
: Food sources
I
Fruit bearing trees
V bittersweet, chokecherry, crabapples, apples, currant, dogwood, elderberry,
; hawthorn, honeysuckle, mountain ash, nannyberry, raspberry,
| Russian olive, saskatoon and snowberry
Perennials and annuals
aster, bee balm, cosmos, daisy, marigold, purple cone flower, roses and
sunflower
Allow seed pods to form on the perennials. Keep the annuals clipped to
keep them flowering.
Humming birds are welcome guests in the summer. Not only are they
beautiful, but they pollinate the flowers they feed from as well as feeding
on aphids, gnats, thrips and tiny flies. Flowers that attract the hummers
tend to be intensely colored, deep and tubular. Although red is a favorite
color, humming birds will also be attracted to bright orange and pink.
Favorite flowers are bee balm, cardinal flower, red sage, red columbines,
scarlet trumpet honeysuckle and scarlet runner beans.
To keep the hummers in the yard, have a food source blooming all summer
long. Feeders will supplement the birds if there is a lapse in blooming
flowers. Humming bird feed mixes are available commercially, but a
solution of one part sugar and four parts of water can be used to fill
feeders. Boil the sugar and water for one to two minutes, then pour the
mixture into the feeder and refrigerate the remainder. Use white sugar
only; honey or any other sweet substance can make the birds ill. It is not
necessary to color the solution red; the red coloration of the feeders will
draw the birds.
Cleanliness is important in keeping the birds healthy. Change the solution
every three days, and once a week, wash out the feeder with hot water.
The best time to fill the feeder is in the evening. This is the time when the
birds will be taking on lots of food to get them through the night.
Place the feeder in a shady spot in the yard, protected from the wind, but
where it can be seen easily. There is a big entertainment factor in watching
the birds jockey for a spot at the feeder as these little birds can get very
aggressive.
Start with one feeder, and add more as the number of humming bird
visitors grows. Keep the feeders going until the last migrating bird has
passed through; they will need extra energy for their long migration south
for the winter.
Water Gardening
Nothing is more calming than the sound of moving water, unless perhaps
it is watching fish swim in a still pond on a warm summer day. The
addition of a water feature to a yard can be the garden’s crowning glory
Gardening in water can be intimidating - until you do it. Once a gardener
learns how simple it is to grow this way the gardener is often hooked.
Time is then spent planning the next water feature.
The following section is only a guide to growing water plants. Several good
nurseries specialize in water gardening and water plants, and their staff
can be very helpful. These are the people who can guide the first-time
gardener through the process. There are also good books written on the
planning and installation of a water feature, even a couple written
specifically for prairie conditions.
So come on and get your toes wet.
FW color
Bloom time
Height
Spread
Submerged/Oxygenators
Canada Pond Weed
Elodea longivaginata
non-flowering
water surface
indefinite
Common Bladderwort
Utricularia vulgaris
yellow
summer
water surface
30 cm
Hornwort
Ceratophyllum demersum
indistinct
water surface
indefinite
Marginal and Emergent Plants
Arrowhead
Sagittaria cuneata
white
summer
20-50 cm
indefinite
Blue Water Iris
Iris laevigata
blue
midsummer
30 cm
indefinite
Bog Bean
Menyanthes trifoliata
pink-white
25 cm
indefinite
Bur Reed
Sparaganium sp.
inconspicuous
indefinite
Coltsfoot
Petasites spp.
white
early spring
30 cm
10 cm
Common Cattail
Typha latifolia
beige spikes
late summer
2.5 m
indefinite
Common Scouring Rush
Equisetum hyamale
non-flowering
60 cm
indefinite
Dwarf Cattail
Typha minima
rusty brown spikes
late summer
45-60 cm
30 cm
Great Bullrush
Scirpus validus
inconspicuous
60-215 cm
indefinite
Kermesina Water Iris
Iris versicolor var Kermesina
magenta
summer
60 cm
indefinite
Planting conditions
.
Winter protection
required
Comments
■
30-20 cm under water
none, deep water or treat
as an annual
excellent oxygenator, does well in
shade, roots easily in soil in the pond
or in pots
30-150 cm under water
none
needs full sun
60 cm under water
yes, see wintering
instructions
non-rooted: propagate by cuttings left
to float on water surface or weighted
down
15-150 cm under water or
bog
none, freeze in
native, full sun
up to 30 cm under water
none
up to 5 cm under water
none
native
30-120 cm under water
yes, see wintering
instructions
native
moist soil at pond edge or
up to 10 cm under water
none
flowers before it leafs out
up to 30 cm under water
none
invasive, decorative seed heads
wet, sandy bog or under
up to 90 cm of water
none
leafless stocks, with bamboo-type joints
up to 15 cm under water
none
decorative seed heads
0-120 cm under water
none
native
5-10 cm under water
none
also grows in bog soil, divide late
summer
Flower colo
Bloom time
Knotted Rush
Juncus nodosus
inconspicuous
20 cm
indefinite
Mares Tail
Hippuris vulgaris
inconspicuous
late spring
5-30 cm
indefinite
Marsh Cinquefoil
Potentilla palustris
purple
30 cm
indefinite
Marsh Marigold
Caltha palustris
bright yellow
spring
30 cm
45 cm
Marsh Marigold, White
Caltha palustris var alba
white
spring
30 cm
45 cm
Marsh Reed Grass/Bluejoint
Calamagrostis canadensis
inconspicuous
61-122 cm
indefinite
Parrot's Feather
Myriophyllum aquaticum
inconspicuous
5-10 cm
indefinite
Pencil Cattail
Typha angustifolia
brown spikes
autumn
1. 5-2.2 m
indefinite
Pink Flowering Rush
Butomus umbellatus
rose-pink
summer
90 cm
indefinite
Reed Grass
Phragmites australis
purplish, feathery
autumn
1-3 m
indefinite
Siberian Iris
Iris siberica
blue or blue purple
late spring/early summer
45-90 cm
indefinite
Spike Rush
Eleocharis palustris
egg-shaped brown spikelets
summer
30 cm
indefinite
Stream Horsetail
Equisetum fluviatile
non-flowering
75 cm
indefinite
Umbrella Plant
Cyperus papyrus
tufts of brown flower sprays
75 cm
indefinite
Winter protection
required
Comments
up to 5 cm under water
none
native
up to 5 cm under water, or
bog
none
native, can be invasive
up to 5 cm under water
none
native
bog or up to 10 cm under
water
none
native, poisonous
bog or up to 10 cm under
water
none
poisonous
bog
none
native
up to 10 cm under water
annual
bright green feathery stems form vines
that will trail over pond surface
20-60 cm under water
none
invasive, decorative seed heads
up to 30 cm under water
none
do not plant in natural ponds, can be
invasive
moist soil at pond edge
none
invasive, decorative seed heads
bog
none
will grow in drier soil
bog or up to 5 cm under
water
none
native, great vertical texture, ideal for
tubs
up to 30 cm under water
none
native
up to 2.5 cm under water
overwinter indoors as
houseplant
attractive addition to tub garden
Nome Flower color
Bloom time
Spread
Water Hawthorne
Aponogeton distachyos
white
early summer and late
autumn
5-10 cm
1.25 m
Water Iris, Yellow
Iris pseudacomus
yellow
midsummer
90 cm
indefinite
Water Iris, Varigated
Iris pseudacomus var variegata
yellow
midsummer
90 cm
indefinite
Water Plantain
Alisma plantago
tiny white
summer
75 cm
45 cm
Water Sedge
Carex aquatilis
narrow brown spikes
summer
40 cm
indefinite
Western Dock
Rumex occidentalis
reddish clusters
spring
.5-1.5 m
20 cm
White Water Arum
Calla palustris
white spathe
spring
25 cm
30 cm
Wild Rice
Zizania aquatica
pale green
summer
90 cm
not applicable
Rooted but Floating leaves
Broad-leaved Pondweed
Potamogeton natans
inconspicuous
water surface
indefinite
Floating Marsh Marigold
white-pink
0-30 cm
indefinite
Caltha natans
spring
Water Smartweed
pink
water surface
indefinite
Persicaria amphibium
summer
White Water Crowfoot
white
0-5 cm
indefinite
Ranunculus aquatilis
summer
Yellow Water Crowfoot
yellow
0-5 cm
indefinite
Ranunculus gmelinii
summer
up to 60 cm under water
under ice
annual, good in part shade or shade
up to 30 cm under water
none
known as yellow flag or water flag
up to 30 cm under water
none
interesting white and green variegated
leaves
up to 30 cm under water
none
native
bog or up to 30 cm under
water
none
native
bog
none
common wild plant
up to 10 cm under water
none
produces red/orange berries
20 cm under water
annual fall seeding
recommended
self seeds
5-120 cm under water
yes, see wintering
instructions
native to Alberta, showy bronze foliage
up to 25 cm under water,
or bog
none
native, poisonous
up to 60 cm under water
none
native to Alberta, does well in shallow
water or moist soil, will root on bank
and float out onto water
5-120 cm under water
yes, see wintering
instructions
native
up to 30 cm under water
none
native
4H»
Free Floating
Flower color
Bloom time
Height
mm ill 1 S
Spread
Common Duckweed
Lemna minor
inconspicuous
summer
water surface
indefinite
Fairy Moss
Azolla caroliniana
non-flowering
water surface
indefinite
Frogbit
Hydrocharis morsus-ranae
tiny white
summer
water surface
2.5 cm
Water Hyacinth
Eichhomia crassipes
pale bluish lilac
late summer
water surface
20 cm
Water Lettuce
Pistia stratiotes
inconspicuous
late summer
15-30 cm
indefinite
Water Soldier
Stratiotes abides
inconspicuous
summer
30 cm
indefinite
Water Lilies Nymphaea (flower June through October)
Attraction
deep garnet
June - October
water surface
1.3-1. 5 m
Aurora
yellow-apricot, turning red
water surface
60-90 cm
Cape Cod
Nymphaea odorata
pale to mid pink
water surface
1.3 m
Chromatella
canary yellow
water surface
1 m
Comanche
yellow-apricot, turning
orange-red
water surface
1.4 m
Common White
white semi-double
water surface
1.5- 1.8 m
Escarbouchle
red tipped white petals,
semi-double
water surface
1.3- 1.5 m
Planting conditions Winter protection
required
Comments
floats
annual, or if left in deep
pond will sink to bottom
for winter
native, will need to be thinned out
floats
annual
absorbs fish waste, fast grower, good
fall color, will need to be thinned out
floats
annual
prefers still, shallow water, may root
into mud on pond bottom, will need to
be thinned out, great snail food
floats
difficult to overwinter in
house, easier treated as
annual
needs full sun and constantly warm
temperatures to flower in Alberta,
great pond scrubbers
floats
treat as annual
thin as necessary
floats
treat as annual
35-90 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
medium to large ponds
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
tub garden or small pond, mottled
foliage that thrives in heat
30-60 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
small to medium pond
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
any size pond
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
medium to large pond
30-90 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
medium to large ponds
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
medium to large ponds
8 '•
QShHHHHI
Gonnere
white double
wafer surface
1-1.5 m
Mediae White
white
water surface
1-1.3 m
Perry's Baby Red
dark red
water surface
75 cm
Pink Gonnere
light pink double
water surface
1.3 m
Red Pygmy
deep pink
water surface
75 cm
Soiux
orange-yellow to orange-red
water surface
1.3 m
Virginalis
white
water surface
1-1.3 m
Virginia
cream to pale yellow, fragrant
semi-double
water surface
1.5- 1.8 m
William B. Shaw
pink
flowers rise
above water
surface
1-1.3 m
Yellow Pygmy
canary yellow
water surface
60 cm
Pond Lily (Nuphar)
Yellow Pond Lily
yellow
water surface
1.3-1. 5 m
►
medium to large ponds, bronze young
leaves
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
20-30 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
container gardens or small pond
medium to large ponds, young leaves
purple blotched
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
15-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
small container gardens
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
35-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
any size pond, purple bronze leaves,
reliable
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
30-45 cm from soil surface
to water surface
required, see wintering
instructions
small to medium pond
required, see wintering
instructions
■
30 cm from soil surface to
water surface
required, see wintering
native to prairies
instructions
—
Wintering Aquatic Plants
Once a thin layer of ice forms on the pond on a couple of mornings, it is
time to get the pond and the plants ready for winter.
Steps to winterizing the pond and the aquatic plants:
• Leave the pond full of water overwinter. This makes the equalizing of
the pond easier in the spring. Some mud and organic debris should be
left in the pond.
• Leave hardy marginal and emergent plants in place. Trim back the
foliage either in the fall or spring. Rhizomes of hardy northern aquatics
will survive as long as they have adequate food reserves and are not root
bound. Even if the mud freezes around them, they will be able to
survive.
• Remove the floating aquatics and compost or mulch them. The
duckweed will sink to the bottom of the pond to overwinter.
• Move questionably-hardy varieties indoors.
• Protect fish. Overwinter them either in an aquarium or by placing a
stock tank or pond heater and an oxygenating plant in the pond. Gold
fish can be overwintered either in large garbage bins in a cool spot
(1 to 5°C) with an oxygenator plant in the container with them or in an
aquarium.
• Remove and clean pumps. Drain and clean bio-filters.
• Bog type bio-filters should be left filled with water, but remove the
pumps.
• Netting placed over the pond will catch the falling leaves and reduce
spring clean-up. Large amounts of decaying plant material in the bottom
of the pond steal oxygen from the water.
The deep water aquatics, like the water lilies and oxygenators, must not be
frozen. These plants need special treatment for getting them through the
winter. Here are some methods for overwintering this plant material:
• Place plants, pot and all, in a slightly larger tub. Cut off the old leaves.
Fill the tub with water until the plant crown is well covered. Choose a
cool (5 to 7° C) spot with indirect light. Keep the tub filled with water
until spring. Occasionally top up the container with fresh water to
prevent stagnation. This method is not recommended for the hardy
marginals where cold temperatures are necessary for their dormancy.
• The rhizomes can also be stored in plastic bags with wet peat moss or
damp sand. The drawback to overwintering with this method is that
the plants will take longer to establish themselves the following spring.
Remove the rhizomes from the pot, wash them clean and trim the roots
as well as the old leaves. Place the rhizomes in wet peat moss or damp
sand in sealed plastic bags. Store the bags in a dark and cool (1 to 5° C)
spot.
• The lilies can be stored in their pots in cold storage. Trim off the old
leaves, and wrap the pot and all in burlap; then put them in a plastic
bag. Once again, store at a cool 1 to 5°C, and check the pots occasionally
to be sure the soil is wet. But make sure the pots are not sitting in
water. A hard-sided plastic container with a snap-on lid can be
substituted for the plastic bag. It is easier to move the heavy plant pots
around when they are in these plastic containers.
• The hardy marginals, oxygenating plants and the lilies can be left in the
pond provided that the pond does not freeze solid. In Alberta, that
means the pond must be at least 1.2 meters deep. To ensure the survival
of the lilies, deep water aquatics and oxygenators, they must be below
ice. Trim foliage and move deep water plants to the deepest part of the
pond where the risk of freezing is reduced. Hardy marginals can remain
in place on the pond shelves, as they can survive being frozen in the ice.
Trim back the dead foliage in the fall or spring.
Once the pond surface has a couple of inches of ice, cover it with bales of
hay or straw. First, cover the pond surface with boards for the bales to rest
on; then tightly pack the bales on the boards. Pull a tarp over the bales to
keep them dry. Remove the insulation layer in the middle to the end of
March in the following spring.
Hardy marginals, grown in tubs, can be overwintered by burying them in
their pots in the ground. In the fall, dig a hole large enough for the pot in
the garden or flower bed. Drop the pot and all into the hole and backfill.
Mark the spot, so it is easy to find the following spring.
In the spring, after the ice melts, clean any leaves from the pond surface
and remove any accumulated debris from the pond bottom. Repair and
replace any of the pond edging, or anything that has been displaced by
freezing action.
Top up the water levels. If using a chlorinated water supply allow the
pond to sit for several days to dissipate the chlorine. Once the chlorine has
dissipated, add 15 to 20 liters of natural pond water to help the pond
establish a natural balance.
When the pond water temperature is 7 to 10°C (usually in May), return
the water lilies that have been overwintered indoors to the pond. Lilies can
be put in the pond when the water is cooler, but they will not grow until
the water temperature warms up.
Bulb plants will grace flower beds with color from snow melt to fall. Whatever the
gardener wants , a blast of spring color or dauntless summer blooms of bright colors
or pastels, bulb plants can fill the bill.
Spring Flowering Bulbs
«
«
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1
i
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Selecting Bulbs
• Select bulbs for size and firmness. Avoid bulbs with deep cuts; blemishes
or soft spots.
• The paper covering does not need to be intact.
• The larger the bulb - the larger and more flowers produced. Bulbs for
naturalizing do not have to be the biggest.
• Prior to planting, store bulbs in a cool place, like the refrigerator, in
paper or open plastic bags.
Location
• Open and sunny locations with a little shade in the afternoon will
lengthen the flowering period.
• Foundation plantings on the south and west sides force the bulb into
early growth and will shorten the flowering time because of blasting.
Select later maturing bulbs for these locations.
• Combine in odd numbered masses, avoiding straight rows. Planting
later flowering bulbs with early flowering plants in the same spaces will
mean color all spring long.
• Well drained soil is a must, so improve the soil if necessary. Dig the bed
to a depth of 30 to 45 cm and incorporate bonemeal or 11-52-0.
Planting
• Plant bulbs early in the fall to allow for root establishment (daffodils in
late August or early September). Mulching late planted bulbs before the
ground freezes may buy some root establishment time.
• Dust the bulbs with a bulb dust to prevent disease and insect problems.
• Plant bulbs 5 cm deeper than the recommended depth to allow for the
planting of annuals above.
• Place point or nose of bulb up, cover with soil and firm.
• Water the bed deeply. Bulbs left in place from year to year need to be
well watered in the fall to allow for good root establishment.
• Mulching to a depth of 5 cm after the ground has frozen to 5 cm deep
prevents frost heaving.
After Flowering Care
• After the flowers fade, cut them off with a sharp knife or scissors,
leaving the flower stem. Let the foliage die back naturally.
• Fertilize at the end of flowering with 10-30-10 or bulb fertilizer (4-10-8
at the rate of 1.5 kg/ 10 m2 ) to increase the food storage of the bulbs.
• Bulbs can be left in place for three to five years. Bulbs used for
naturalizing will need to be lifted when their blossoms get small and
few in number.
• To increase the number of bulbs, to rearrange the planting or to
rejuvenate a crowded planting, lift and replace the bulbs. Lift bulbs
anytime after the foliage dies. Replant immediately or air dry and store
them in a warm, well-ventilated room. The plants can also be dug once
flowering is finished and placed in a nursery area (heeled in). The foliage
is left to mature, then the bulbs can be dug, cleaned and stored.
Although tulips and scilla (squills or bluebells) are the spring bulbs most
commonly seen in Alberta gardens, several other, less familiar kinds have
proven hardy in the province.
The following bulbs have generally performed well in Alberta.
• Tulip
Most tulip cultivars will perform well the first season after planting,
provided they are planted by late September and well watered in. In some
locations, tulips will gradually deteriorate in a few years. Cultivars of
Single Early, Double Early, Mendel, Darwin and Lily Flowered are
commonly available.
Species tulips such as Tulipa (T.) tarda , T. kolpakowskiana, T. turkistanica and
T. urumiensis can perform well in Alberta.
• Narcissus
Daffodil is a common name that can be used for all species and cultivars of
narcissus, but typically, the name applies to the large yellow fragrant
types. Narcissus require warm, damp soils at the time of planting. Bulbs
planted late in the fall (after mid-October) will not bloom in the spring.
Cultivars of the Trumpets, Large and Small Cupped, Doubles, Jonquils and
Tazettes may be planted.
• Crocus
The Alberta climate limits the types of crocus that can be grown here, just
as with tulips and daffodils. Crocus prefer a sunny site with well-drained
soil rich in humus. They do best on the east side of buildings where the
heat from the building helps them establish roots. Avoid the hot sun of the
western and southern exposures.
Species that have proven hardy are: Crocus (C.) ancyrensis , C. chrysanthus,
C. speciosus, C. dalmaticus, C. etruscus, C. longiflorus, C. susianus
(C. angustifolius) and C. tomasinianus.
• Scilla
Scilla, commonly know as squills, are easy to grow in sun or shade. They
self-propagate quite easily.
Recommended species are: Scilla (S.) bifolia, S. sibirica, S. sibirica alba, and
S. sibirica taurica.
• Other Spring Flowering Bulbs
Grape Hyacinth
Muscaria ( M .) armeniacum, M. azureum, M. botryoides
Glory-of-the-Snow
Chionodoxa (C.) luciliae, C. sardensis
Fritillary
Fritillaria (F.) pallidi flora, F. meleagris, F. pudica
Flowering Onions
Allium (A.) caeruleum (A. azureum ) , A. oreophilum (A. ostrowskianum ),
A. moly, A. neapolitanum, (A. cowanii)
Fall Crocus
Colchicum autumnale
Bulbocodium
Bulbocodium vernum
Striped-Squill
Puschkinia (P.) scilloides, P libanotica, P libanotica alba
Dwarf Iris
Iris reticulata
Summer Blooming Bulbs
The bulbs in this group need to be lifted from the ground in the fall,
cleaned and then stored for the winter. This small amount of extra work
should not deter a potential grower from planting these beauties.
• Gladiolus (glads)
Glads are commonly grown as a cut flower because of their elegant
appearance in a floral display. The spike of tightly-arranged florets open
progressively from the bottom up. Glads come in a broad color range, from
white to a purple so dark it looks black. As an added bonus, the flowers can
be a single color or a combination or two or three colors.
Glad corms are sold in 5 different size classifications from miniature (100),
where the bottom floret is under 6 cm in diameter, to the giants (500),
with the bottom floret being 14 cm or larger. A corm looks like a bulb, but
when cut open, it is solid and cannot be peeled apart like a true bulb. The
glad stores energy over the winter in a corm.
Buy firm, plump corms and avoid ones with green or black spots. Corms
with a high crown will produce a good flower stalk. When planting corms
that have been overwintered, inspect them before planting and discard any
rotten ones.
Glads require a full sun location protected from the wind. Any well-
drained, deeply tilled soil is acceptable. Incorporating bonemeal or 11-48-0
at a rate of 60 gm/m2 will give the corms an extra boost and improve their
performance. Gladiolus thrips ruin the flowers very quickly so treat the
corms before planting with a bulb dust that contains both a fungicide and
an insecticide. This practice will destroy thrips that may have
overwintered on the corm.
Plant corms 8 to 13 cm deep and 10 to 15 cm apart as soon as the soil can
be prepared in the spring. Once the plants are showing one to two leaves,
the soil can be mulched. This practice will help retain soil moisture and
keep the weeds under control. Mulching materials can be dried grass
clippings, sawdust or peat moss. After applying a herbicide to the lawn,
wait six mowings before collecting clippings for mulch.
Deep watering of the plants after they have emerged is necessary for good
flowering and corm production. Glads, depending on the weather
conditions, require 30 cm of irrigation every 10 to 14 days. Staking the
plants and flower stems will help prevent wind breakage and will produce
a straight stem. Bamboo stakes and plant ties are ideal.
When cutting flowers, choose the flower stalks with two to three flowers
open. Cut flowers early in the morning, when they are fresh and moist.
Use a sharp knife and leave at least four leaves on the plant, so the plant
can produce a new corm.
Harvest the corms in the fall, usually in October. A warm sunny day is
ideal for harvest. Cut off the dried tops about 2 cm above the corms. If the
weather is good, leave the corms in the sun to dry for a few hours, then
bring them in to a warm, dry place (27 to 32°C) to cure.
When the old corm separates easily from the new one, clean off the soil
and loose outer skin. Dust the corms with bulb dust and cure for another
three to seven days. The corms can be stored in a cool (3 to 5°C) dry spot
in open trays, mesh bags or old nylon stockings. Proper curing is essential
to prevent the corms from decaying during storage.
• Tuberous Begonia
Begonias are wonderful plants that grow in spots where they get the
morning or late evening sun. They grow best in a rich, well-drained soil
protected from wind and driving rains. Some cultivars work well for
bedding, while others make excellent hanging baskets.
Whether planting old tubers or buying new ones, choose tubers that are
firm and blemish-free. Plant tubers about mid-March into pots or flats
filled with a good quality, moist potting soil. Push the tuber into the
moistened potting soil, hollow side up, until the tuber top is flush with the
soil surface. Place the pots or flats in a warm, brightly lit room. Keep the
soil moist and fertilize occasionally with 20-20-20. If started in flats, the
plants will have to be transplanted when they are 5 cm tall. Take care not
to disturb the roots when transplanting.
After hardening them off, plant the begonias outdoors after the danger of
frost is past. Feed the plants monthly with a liquid fertilizer like 20-20-20
or 15-30-15 to keep them producing flowers. Stop fertilizing in mid-August,
to allow the plants to begin to harden off.
On a warm sunny day after the leaves have been blackened by autumn
frost, dig up the plants, leaving as much soil on the roots as possible. Store
the whole plant, with the soil intact around the roots, in a well ventilated
room at 12 to 15°C until the stem separates easily from the tubers. Clean
the soil from the tuber, dust with a fungicide and cure for ten days before
storing.
Store the tubers in vermiculite, peatmoss or sand in a cool spot (4 to 7° C)
until it is time to replant the following March. Keeping the storage media
slightly damp will keep the roots from shrivelling. Check the tubers
regularly to make sure they are not rotting.
• Dahlias
Dahlias come in a wide range of heights, flower forms and flower sizes.
They grow best in a warm sunny spot, but will tolerate partial shade if
they have a rich moist soil.
Plant dahlia tubers one week before the last spring frost, unless they have
been presprouted. With presprouted tubers, plant them one week after the
last spring frost. Plant the roots with the top end about 10 cm deep.
Clumps of tubers can be divided to increase the number of plants, but be
sure to include part of the old stem with each piece as growth shoots will
only develop from the buds located there.
The taller-growing dahlia cultivars require staking to prevent breakage.
Plant a short stake with the tuber at planting time. Replace the short stake
with a taller one when needed. Replacing the stake this way will prevent it
from being pushed through the tuber.
After a killing frost, cut the tops back leaving about 10 cm of stump above
the soil. Delay digging the tubers until there is the threat of a hard freeze
that could damage the roots in the soil. The longer the tubers are in the
ground, the less time they need to be stored inside.
After lifting the tuber clumps, turn them upside down to drain water from
the hollow stems. Gently remove the soil from around the tubers, taking
care not to break them, as the roots cannot be salvaged if broken. Dust the
clean roots with bulb dust. Store in moist peat or vermiculite at a
temperature of 5° C. Check the tubers occasionally to be sure they are not
shrivelling or rotting in storage.
An alternate way to store the tubers is to lift them; then, instead of
cleaning off the soil, store the roots 'as is7 in a cool spot. When the soil
begins to dry to the cracking point, sprinkle the tubers with water to keep
the soil from separating from the roots.
• Cannas
The canna has large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter that look like
gladiolus. The flower color ranges from yellow to red. They are regal plants
that make excellent specimen plants in pots or focal points in flower beds.
Cannas produce a fleshy rhizome that is dug and overwintered. They do
best with plenty of moisture in a full sun location sheltered from wind.
Canna rhizomes can be cut into pieces with an eye, like potatoes, and
planted. Start cannas indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost of the
spring. Plant the rhizome horizontally into a good quality, moistened
potting soil. Cover the rhizome with 8 to 10 cm of soil. Place the pots in a
warm, brightly lit room and keep the soil moist.
After hardening off, plant the rhizomes outdoors after the danger of frost
has passed. Space cannas 30 to 38 cm apart into a rich, well-drained soil.
Feed the plants monthly with a liquid fertilizer like 20-20-20 or 15-30-15 to
keep them producing flowers.
Harvest cannas on a warm sunny day once the plants have been damaged
by the frost. Cut off the foliage at ground level, dig the tubers and turn
them upside down for a few hours to dry. Bring the tubers indoors to a
warm, airy room. Allow tubers to dry for several days, but do not let them
shrivel. As with dahlias, pack the cleaned rhizome into vermiculite or sand
and store at 5°C. Check the rhizomes occasionally through the winter, and
sprinkle the media with water to prevent shrivelling if necessary.
Perennials
Planning a Perennial Bed
Planning a perennial bed is an exciting process because perennials will
reward you with beauty and color for years to come. The planning process
is important because it is easier to match plants to the growing conditions
than it is to change the growing conditions to match the plants.
After deciding the location of the perennial bed, do an appraisal of the site.
Take note of the total hours of exposure to the sun, the soil conditions and
the prevailing winds during both summer and winter. Winds can tear
delicate plants in the summer and will affect how the snow accumulates in
the yard in the winter.
Since a perennial bed is a long-term planting, soil testing and amendment
are important. Incorporate organic matter to improve soil texture and, if
indicated by the soil test, add fertilizer as well.
A well-planned perennial bed changes constantly throughout the growing
season. Few perennials will flower for the entire season, so mixing different
plants allows color to last from early spring to late fall. Choose plants for
their form, texture, foliage and height in addition to their blossom time
and color.
Arrange plants according to their height, so they can all be seen. Avoid a
step-like appearance by varying plant heights in the different zones of the
planting bed to give a natural appearance. Perennials tend to be planted
singly or in groups of odd numbers. For example, peonies seem to look best
when planted singly, whereas iris lend themselves to planting in clumps of
three or five.
Unlike tree plantings, perennial beds can easily be changed. Simply dig up
plants and move them if they are not in the right spot.
Winter Care
Water the plants well just before the ground freezes in the fall, to prevent
root damage from cold dry soils. Mulching newly planted perennials will
help them survive their first winter. Apply mulch materials (clean straw,
peat moss or leaves) once the ground has frozen several centimetres deep.
Avoid covering the crowns of peonies, delphiniums and poppies as this can
cause rot problems in the spring.
Do you cut the dead perennial foliage away in the fall? This material can
be cut off or left standing, with the exception of the foliage of the peony,
iris, bishops cap and lilies, which should be removed to prevent disease the
following growing season.
Removing the dead foliage does eliminate overwintering sites for diseases
and insects. However, leaving the foliage can help hold a snow cover
during the winter, and the seed pods can be attractive in the snow. Remove
the tops after the frost has killed the foliage, so the plant can store as much
energy in the root as possible, and never cut back evergreen perennials.
Selections
• Iris
Irises are divided into two main classes - bearded and beardless. Bearded
irises have the small fuzzy projections on the falls or three drooping petals.
Bearded Irises (Iris germanica)
Bearded irises are available in a wide range of heights (15 to 100 cm),
flowering periods and colors. The short to medium height cultivars seem to
do better in Alberta. This type of iris prefers sunny, well drained locations.
Shading and spring water puddling can encourage root rot, and shading
decreases the flowering. Divide the plants every three to four years to
prevent the centre from dying out.
The best time to divide irises is in early August. Cut the leaves off 8 cm
above the rhizome and dig up the entire clump. Using a sharp knife, divide
the clump into smaller sections, each consisting of a rhizome with leaves
attached. Younger, more vigorous rhizomes (from the outside of the clump)
are best for replanting. Plant just below the soil level and water well.
Mulching the first winter may increase winter survival. Once the plant is
established, mulching should not be necessary. Container-grown plants can
be planted throughout the growing season.
Beardless or Siberian Irises (Iris sibirica )
Beardless or Siberian irises stand up well to winds and winter. Siberians can
be planted in either partial or full sun locations, but try to avoid hot, dry
sites. They adapt to a wide range of soils, but prefer an evenly moist soil.
These irises can be divided every eight to ten years, and division is best
done in September. Plant them about 3 to 5 cm below the soil surface and
water well. Mulching the first winter may increase winter survival.
There are many cultivars of both the bearded and beardless iris that can be
grown in Alberta gardens.
Yellow flag iris or Water flag iris (Iris pseudacorus)
Yellow flag iris or Water flag iris are best planted in full sun in shallow
water or in a bog garden, although they will adapt to a dryer spot. This iris
is 90 cm tall, with green to blue green foliage and produces yellow flowers
in June.
Dwarf iris (Iris pumila)
Dwarf iris prefers a well-drained soil. This tiny plant, under 15 cm tall, has
finger-sized foliage Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers when growing this plant.
Consider these other iris species for Alberta
Gold bearded iris - Iris flavissima, Blueflag iris -Iris versicolor, Grass iris -
Iris graminea, Pilgrim iris - Iris ruthenica, Season iris - Iris spuria and
Virginia iris - Iris virginica.
• Lily
Many hardy hybrid lily cultivars have been bred for the prairies. Lilies are
best planted or transplanted in the fall. Planting can be done in April or
early May, but the plants will not have as many flowers nor will they grow
as tall as a fall-planted bulb.
Lilies start growing very early in the spring. If the young shoots or sprouts
are broken at this time, that bulb will not grow again until it has gone
through another cold treatment. When transplanting, prevent the bulb
from drying out by planting it as soon as possible after digging.
Lilies prefer full sun but will tolerate some shade. They grow well in a
moist soil with good drainage. Plant with the growing point up; 7 to 8 cm
below the soil level.
Lilies require plenty of nourishment. Use a complete fertilizer like 10-20-10
or 15-30-15 until blooming is finished. Remove faded blossoms. In the fall,
remove the dead tops about 2 to 3 cm above the ground.
Asiatic hybrid lilies grow 38 to 50 cm tall and flower anywhere from early
to late summer. They should be planted in full sun. The flowers come in a
wide range of colors, but lack a scent. Asiatic lilies are divided into three
classes:
• Class A has upward facing flowers and are very showy.
• Class B have outfacing flowers with more flowers per stem
than Class A.
• Class C flowers are down-facing and have the most blossoms per stem.
Martagon lilies will grow in partial shade and range in height from 75 to
120 cm. The flowers bloom in late spring to early summer and are shaped
like small Turkscaps.
Hardy species lilies include
Lilium (L.) canadense, L. cernum, L. concolor, L. dauricum , L. p> until um,
L. amabile , L. callosum, L. martagon, L. hansonii, L. tigrinum, L. tsingtauense,
L. davidii regale and L. p>hilidelp>hicum.
• Garden Chrysanthemum
Garden chrysanthemums - mums - prefer full sun, but they will tolerate
some shade.
Mums need to be rejuvenated periodically. In the spring, dig up the plant
and discard the older woody portions. Separate the young shoots and then
plant them slightly deeper than they were on the mother plant. Keep the
soil moist until the shoots become established. During dry weather, keep
the plants well watered.
Water the plants in well just before freeze up, and then mulch to help
protect the plants during the winter. Winters with little snow cover and
fluctuating temperatures are hard on garden mums. Watering in the early
spring before growth starts may be necessary after such a winter.
The following Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada chrysanthemum cultivars
developed at Morden have proven to be the hardiest on the prairies:
• Morden Aztec (double bronze)
• Morden Canary (double yellow)
• Morden Candy (double pink)
• Morden Cameo (double, creamy-white)
• Morden Delight (double bronze)
• Morden Eldorado (double yellow)
• Morden Everest (double white)
• Morden Fiesta (double, rosy-purple)
• Morden Garnet (double, cardinal-red)
• Peony
The peony is a tough, long-lived perennial that often survives on old
farmsteads along with the lilacs and caragana. Peonies prefer a rich clay-
loam, well-drained soil and full sun.
Container-grown peonies may be planted at any time, but plants should be
lifted and divided in September. Good soil preparation is a must as this
perennial will be in place a long time. Incorporate peat moss or compost
into the bed, then dig a hole and place the crown so the buds are 3 to 5 cm
below the soil surface. Avoid planting any deeper as the plant will not
flower. Firm the soil around the crown and water in. When dividing up the
crown, each division should have three to five buds or eyes.
Frequent, shallow cultivation is the only care required for the first two
years. Peonies are heavy feeders and will respond to a spring application of
a good garden fertilizer or bonemeal mixed shallowly into the soil around
the plants.
The heavy flowers of the peony tend to end up lying on the ground when
subjected to winds or heavy rains. Wire hoops with at least three legs will
support the flowers. Put the hoops in place before the leaves unfold.
After a killing frost, cut the peony tops off just above the crown and
remove all refuse and tops from around the plants.
Blooms cut at the loose bud stage will open and last longer than those cut
when flowers are fully open. When cutting, do not remove more foliage
from the plant than necessary as losing too much foliage can weaken the
plant.
Dry peonies by removing the leaves and hanging the plants upside down
by the stems. Hang them in a dark, warm spot with good air circulation.
Dark reds and pinks have the best color retention when drying.
Ground Covers
Description
Ground covers are any low-growing plant that prevents soil and water loss
by covering the ground surface. These plants can cover the ground under
trees or shrubs, or they can be used in areas where something other than
grass is desired. Annuals, herbaceous perennials, vines, woody plants,
herbs, ornamental grasses or even low growing edible plants can be
considered for ground covers.
Growth
Some ground covers grow quickly, covering a 20 cm area in one summer,
while others grow more slowly. Some of the quick spreading ones like the
ornamental grasses, Bishop’s goutweed or mint can be very aggressive
(invasive) and need to be contained. Containment can be as simple as
planting them in a bed surrounded by sidewalks or buildings.
Many of the herbaceous perennial ground covers will die out in the centre
as they grow outward. Lifting and dividing the plants every few years
keeps them looking their best.
To get maximum performance from ground covers, each species must be
used in the proper site. Good site selection for each plant will ensure a
healthier plant. Healthy plants are easier to maintain and are less
susceptible to insects and diseases.
The first growing season is very important to a ground cover planting.
Careful watering and weeding will help ensure the plants get established.
Once established, some ground covers require little more than weed
control, while others may need to be watered occasionally or more
frequently. The best advice is to know the growing conditions that favour
the plant, and then, match the plant to those conditions.
Clump forming (10 to 30 cm tall)
Chives
Pincushion Cactus
Cliff Green
Prickly Pear Cactus
Creeping Bellflower
Rose Daphne
Evergreen Candytuft
Silver Mound
Forget-me-not
Sun Rose
Golden Spurge
Tarda Tulip
Clump forming (30 to 45
cm tall)
Bergenia
Lady’s Mantle
Bethlehem Sage
Plantain Lily
Blood-red Cranesbill
Siberian Cypress
Giant Rockfoil
Clump forming (45 to 60
cm tall)
Albert Honeysuckle
Yellow Gem Potentilla
Purple Broom
Mat forming (5 to 10 cm
tall)
Alpine Rockcress
Mountain Avens
Canada Bunchberry
Pussy Toes
Creeping Jenny/Moneywort
Rock Garden Broom
Golden Carpet
Silverweed
Miss Willmott Potentilla
Speedwell/Veronica
Mother-of-thyme
Woolly Thyme
Mat former (10 to 30 cm
tall)
Arctic Phlox
Maiden Pinks
Bird’s-foot Trefoil
Mint
Bugleweed
Mock Strawberry
Canada Violet
Perennial Alyssum
Cheddar Pinks
Periwinkle
Creeping Baby’s Breath
Rockcress
Creeping Cotoneaster
Rock Soapwort
Creeping Juniper
Creeping Oregon Grape
Dragon's Blood Stonecrop
Dwarf Bearded Iris
Dwarf Phlox
Golden Corydalis
Grass Pinks
Harebell
Kamschata Stonecrop
Kinnikinnick
Lily- of- the- valley
Sage/Wormwood
Savin Juniper
Saxifrage
Sea Champion
Snow-in-summer
Spotted Deadnettle
Strawberry
Three-toothed Cinquefoil
Windflower/Snowdrop Anemone
Woolly Yarrow
Mat forming (30 to 45 cm tall)
Bee Balm
Lambs Ears
Bishop's Goutweed
Ostrich Fern
Canada Anemone
Roundleaf Cotoneaster
Catmint
Starflowered Solomon's Seal
Creeping Juniper
Wild Bergamot
Ornamental Grasses
Blue Lyme Grass
Skinner’s Gold Bromegrass
Blue Sheep's Fescue
Variegated Velvet Grass
Bulbous Oat Grass
Yellow Meadow Foxtail
Ribbon Grass
What to Grow in Alberta
The following charts offer information on many features of perennials
grown in Alberta. Height, flower color and bloom time are just a few of the
factors you need to know when deciding on perennial plantings. The term
“xeriscaping” under the heading "Landscape and other uses” refers to
gardening practices that conserve water, such as grouping plants with
similar water needs.
Finding the characteristics you want is easy. Simply look to see if the
square under the heading you want in the chart is colored. If it is, the plant
has that characteristic.
Common Name
Botanical Name
Sail
::
"
m
Bloom time
Flower color
Normal
Evenly moist
a
Full Sun
Partial shade
Shade
a
IdU
TH
CD
a
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
-a
o
Aizoon
Draba aizoon
Alpine Edelweiss
Leontopodium alpinum
Alyssum, Perennial
Aurinia saxatilis
Anemone, Woodland
Anemone nemorosa
Arnica/Yellow Daisy
Arnica chamissinis
Aster
Aster spp.
Astilbe
Astilbe spp.
*
Avens
Geum spp.
Bab/s Breath
Gypsophila paniculata
Baby's Breath, Creeping
Gypsophila repens
Balloon Flower
Platycodon grandiflorum
Beard Tongue
Penstemon spp.
J
_
Ufa rich soil
^ poor soil
^ bog conditions
v evergreen
Landscape and other uses
Flower color Special featui
-S'
c =
CL-
Purple }
05
CO
Ornamental seed pods/fruit j
Foliage prominent J
Fragrant foliage/flowers j
Edible flowers j
Aggressive j
Other features f
Under 15 cm f
E
04
LO
24 -50 cm
50 -90 cm |
90 - 120 cm I
Over 120 cm ;
Border 1
Rockery
Naturalizing
Groundcover
Xeriscaping
Fresh cut
“O
.E
O
*
*
1
|
—
'
*
L
attracts birds and butterflies ^ poisonous
Common Name
fl
Bloom time
Flower color
Botanical Name
Normal
Evenly moist
>»
Q
Full Sun
Partial shade
Shade
a
l_LJ
3E
jD
a
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
CD
CJ>
ez
a
O
-a
cS
Beebaim/Monarda
Monarda spp.
*
Ijj
Bellflower, Carpathian
Campanula carpatica
Bellflower, Creeping
Campanula cochlearifolia
Bellflower, Danesblood
Campanula glomerata
Bellflower, Peachleaf
Campanula persicifolia
Bergenia
Bergenia spp.
Black Snakeroot
Cimicifuga racemosa
Blanket Flower
Gaillardia aristata
#
Blazing Star
Liatris spp.
Bleeding Heart, Common
Dicentra spectabilis
Bleeding Heart, Fernleaf
Dicentra formosa
Bleeding Heart, Plume
Dicentra eximia
^ rich soil
^ poor soil
^ bog conditions
v evergreen
Ifilflf!
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Ligh
Bloom time
Flower color
Normal
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial shade
Shade
a
LU
~a
S
aj
a
— i
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
“O
CD
Bloodroot
Sanguinaria canadensis
Cactus, Pincushion
Coryphantha vivipara
Cactus, Prickly Pear
Opuntia polyacantha
Callianthemum
Callianthemum angustifolium
Campion, Arkwright's
Lychnis arkwrightii
Campion, Haage's
Lychnis haageana
Campion, Rose
Lychnis coronaria
Campion, Sea
Silene vulgaris maritima
Candytuft, Perennial
Iberis sempervirens
Carpet Bugleweed
Ajuga repens
Chinese Lantern
Physalis alkekengi
Chrysanthemum,
Morden Hybrids
Chrysanthemum morifolium
^ rich soil ^ poor soil ^ bog conditions ^ evergreen
Flower color
Special feafut
Height
:
Landscape and other uses
c=
Q.
Purple 1
<D
=3
OQ
Ornamental seed pods/fruit
Foliage prominent
Fragrant foliage/flowers
Edible flowers
Aggressive
Other features
Under 15 cm
15 -24 cm
24 -50 cm
50 -90 cm
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm
Border
Rockery
Naturalizing
Groundcover
Xeriscaping
Fresh cut
.22
Q
J
4c
1
*
*
—
—
—
L
4c attracts birds and butterflies ^ poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Light
Bloom time Flower color
Normal
Evenly moist
o
Full Sun
Partial shade
Shade
0
LU
70
Q)
O
— 1
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
"0
&
Clematis, Ground
Clematis recta
Clematis, Solitary
Clematis integrifolia
Columbine
Aquilegia spp.
Coneflower
Rudbeckia fulgida
Coneflower, Golden Fountain
Rudbeckia laciniata
Coral Bells
Heuchera spp.
Cornflower, Perennial/
Mountain Bluet
Centaurea montana
Cranesbill Geranium
Geranium spp.
Cypress Spurge
Euphorbia cyparissias
Daisy, Gloriosa
Rudbeckia hirta triloba
Daisy, Painted
Chrysanthemum coccineum
Daisy, Shasta
Chrysanthemum x superbum
__
rich soil ^ poor soil ^ bog conditions '-'f evergreen
4c attracts birds and butterflies
g* poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Ligh
t Bloom time
Flower color
Normal
Evenly moist
Q
Full Sun
Partial shade
Shade
a
UJ
-a
S
05
O
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
-a
05
OH
Daylily
Hemerocallis spp.
Deadnettle
Lamiastrum galeobdolan var
variegatum
Deadnettle Spotted
Lamium maculatum
—
Delphinium
Delphinium spp.
#
Dragonhead
Dracorephalum grandiflorum
Dropmore Catmint
Nepeta x ucranica ‘Dropmore’
Elephant Ears
Ligularia stenoaphala
*
Eurasian Solomon's Seal
Polygonatum multiflorum
*
European Pasque Flower
Anemone pulsatilla
Evening Primrose, Missouri
Oenothera missouriensis
#
Everlasting Pea
Lathrus latifolia
False Lupine
Thermopsis spp.
^ rich soil ^ poor soil ^ bog conditions ^ evergreen
Flower color Special features
Height
Landscape and other uses
c z
Q-
03
CL
ZD
CL.
CD
3
QQ
Ornamental seed pods/fruit j
Foliage prominent
Fragrant foliage/flowers
Edible flowers j
Aggressive
Other features
Under 15 cm
15 -24 cm
24 -50 cm
50 -90 cm
90 - 120 cm
Over 120 cm
CD
“O
O
CQ
Rockery
Naturalizing
Groundcover
Xeriscaping
Fresh cut
03
o
4c
__
attracts birds and butterflies
^ poisonous
Common Name
Botanical Name
Soil
Ugh
t Bloom time
'
Flower color
'
Normal
Evenly moist
O
Full Sun
Partial shade
Shade
>*.
O
LU
-a
S
03
a
— i
Inconspicuous flower
White/night garden
Yellow
Orange
T3
£
Flax
Linum spp.
Forget-me-not
Myosotis sylvatica
Foxglove, Yellow
Digitalis grandiflora
Gasplant
Dicamnus albus
Gentian
Gentiana spp.
German Catchfly
Lychnis viscaria
German Statice
Goniolimon tataricum
Ghost Plant
Artemisia ludoviciana
‘Silver King’
*
Globe Flower
Trollius spp.
*
Goafs Beard
Aruncus dioicus
Golden Margeurite
Anthemis tinctoria
Golden Ray/Ligularia
Ligularia dentata
*
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Solidago sp.
Goutweed/
Snow-on-the-mountain
Aegopodium podograria
‘Variegatum’
Hens & Chicks
Sempervivum spp.
*
Herbaceous Periwinkle
Vinca herbacea
Hollyhock
Althaea rosea
Hosta/Plantain Lily
Hosta spp.
*
Iris, Bearded
Iris germanica
*
Iris, Blueflag
Iris versicolor
*
Iris, Dwarf Bearded
Iris pumila
*
Iris, Siberian
Iris siberica
*
Iris, Sweet
Iris pallida
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Iris, Yellow Flag
Iris pseudacomus
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Italian Bugloss
Anchusa azurea
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Jacob's Ladder
Polemonium caeruleum
Joe Pye/Boneset
Eupatorium purpureum
Knotweed
Polygonum bistorta
Lady's Mantle
Alchemilla mollis
Lambs Ears
Stachys grandiflora
Leopardsbane
Doronicum caucasium
Lily, Asiatic
Lilium x hybridum
Lily, Martagon
Lilium martagon
Lily, Tiger
Lilium lancifolium
Lily-of-the-valley
Convallaria majalis
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Arenaria laricifolia
Mullein
Verbascum spp.
Musk Mallow
Malva spp.
Obedient Plant
Physostegia virginiana
Oregon Fleabane
Erigeron speciosus
Ostrich Fern
Matteuccia struthiopteris
pensylvanica
Pasque Flower
Anemone pulsatilla
Pearly Everlasting
Anaphalis margaritacea
Peony
Paeonia spp.
Phlox, Arctic
Phlox borealis
Phlox, Carolina
Phlox Carolina
Phlox, Creeping
Phlox subulata
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Phlox douglasii
Phlox, Garden/Summer
Phlox paniculata
Pink, Cheddar
Dianthus gratinanopolitanus
Pink, Cottage
Dianthus plumarius
Pink, Maiden
Dianthus deltoides
Pink Panda Strawberry
Fragaria frel ‘Pink Panda’
Poppy, Blue Himalayan
Meconopsis grandis
Poppy, Iceland
Papaver nudicaule
Poppy, Oriental
Papaver orientale
Poppy, Plume
Macleaya microcarpa
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Potentilla atrosangiuinea
Potenfilla, Nepal
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Echinops rito
Sneezeweed
Helenium autumnale
Snow-in-summer
Cerastium tomentosum
Sorrel Rhubarb
Rheum palmatum
Speedwell, Longleaf
Veronica longifolia
Speedwell, Spike
Veronica spicata
Speedwell, Woolly
Veronica incana
Spring Adonis
Adonis vemalis
St. John's Wort
Hypericum buckleyi
Stonecrop
Sedum spp.
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Dianthus barbatus
Swordleaf Inula
Inula ensifolia
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Coreopsis verticillata
Tickseed, Lance
Coreopsis lanceolata
Valerian
Valeriana officinalis
Varigated Creeping Charlie
Glechoma hederacea
Violet, Canada
Viola canadensis
Violet, Crowsfoot
Viola pedatifida
Violet, Johnny-jump-up
Viola tricolor
Virginia Bluebells
Mertensia virginica
Virginia Spiderwort
Tradescantia virginiana
Wormwood
Artemisia schmidtiana
‘Silver Mound’
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Yarrow, Fernleaf
Achillea filipendula
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Achillea ptarmica
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Construction
Building may be the most important step in establishing a good lawn,
whether that lawn is established by seed or sod. The first step is to
examine the site for perennial weeds like Canada thistle or quack grass; if
present, they need to be sprayed with glyphosate. No herbicide will control
these perennial weeds in an established lawn, so controlling them at the
beginning is critical.
Grading
The next step is rough grading, where drainage patterns are established
and rocks, stumps and construction debris are removed. Rough grading is
working with the sub-grade to direct the water that has moved through
the topsoil.
Once proper drainage of the sub-grade has been established, the topsoil can
be spread on site. After the topsoil has been spread, a soil test will assess
what fertilizer programs are necessary to grow good turf. The soil test will
also indicate if organic matter will be required.
Soil amendments like compost, well-rotted manure or mushroom compost
are incorporated into the soil at this point. Rotilling the fertilizer and
organic matter into the soil is a good way to incorporate it. A good lawn
requires at least 10 to 15 cm of topsoil after settling. Using less than this
amount means the grass will not perform well.
Final grading is the last step in the building of the lawn. What you see at
this point reflects what the lawn will be after seeding. If there seems to be
lots of quack grass roots in the topsoil, allow it to sprout and grow; then
spray it out with glyphosate. It will take 10 to 14 days before the roots are
killed. If chemical control is undesirable, hand dig to remove weeds,
ensuring that perennial roots are removed.
Timing
Grass is normally seeded in late spring or early summer, although it can be
seeded in mid-August into the first part of September. Grass will need to be
established before the snow flies, so it can survive the winter. Dormant
seeding can be a risk in the chinook zone as the warming causes snow to
melt and seeds to sprout. Once the winter resumes, seeds will often die.
Sodding can be done anytime from spring until mid-late October. In
chinook areas where snow cover is limited, sod needs at least six weeks to
establish itself before freeze up.
Seeding
Starting Seed
Choose your seed mix according to the growing conditions. To apply the
seed evenly, divide it into two equal parts. Sow one half in one direction
and the other half at right angles to the first application.
Rake lightly in one direction. If seeding on a slope, rake across the slope to
avoid erosion problems. Roll after seeding to ensure good seed-to-soil
contact.
Keep the top 5 cm of soil moist at all times for the first 4 to 6 weeks. Seed
may be washed away, so avoid puddling or using a strong jet when
watering. Frequent light waterings are necessary until the seedlings
become established. Following establishment, less frequent waterings are
better.
Feeding
Fertilizers can be added either before seeding or as the seedlings become
established. Fertilizing with a fertilizer with a 1-2-0 or 1-3-0 ratio (11-54-0)
is ideal. Once the grass is established, then switch to 1-1-1 or balanced
fertilizer.
Mowing
Mow the new lawn when it is 5 to 10 cm tall, removing no more than
30 per cent of the leaf blade. Leaving the grass a little longer will
strengthen the rooting and allow the plant to weather better. The process
of mowing wilUforce the grass to reproduce vegetatively, thus thickening
the stand of tbrf.
Mowing is also a form of weed control. Many of the annual weeds found
in newly seeded turf are put into a state of shock when they are mowed.
The grass becomes more competitive for water and nutrients, and the
annual weeds tend to disappear. New turf should not have weed control
products applied for the first four to six weeks. If the turf is healthy after
that time, then a selective broadleaf herbicide can be used.
Sodding
Preparation
Prepare the soil as you would for seeding with one exception. In the case of
seeding, fertilizer can be incorporated before seeding or after the grass has
emerged. When laying sod, the fertilizer should be in the root zone.
Therefore when sodding, fertilizer is generally put down after the final
grading.
Sod should be no more than 1.5 cm thick. Be aware that thicker sod takes
longer to establish.
Laying Sod
Sod should be laid on moist soil as soon as possible after delivery. If there is
a delay, keep the sod slightly moist and store in a cool, shady area.
Lay the first row of sod in a straight row, using a sidewalk, building or
tightly stretched string as a guide. Butt the edges of the sod pieces together
tightly, but do not overlap. The next row should be laid down in a
staggered pattern similar to how bricks are laid. Use a hooked linoleum
knife for trimming.
Do not walk on bare soil as footsteps may cause depressions that will
appear in the sod. Work from boards laid down on the newly set sod. If
sodding on a steep slope7 lay the sod across the hill, not up and down, to
avoid erosion problems later on.
After laying the sod, fill in the joints with topsoil or sand and peatmoss. If
the site was level and the joins were made properly, then the sod should be
relatively uniform. Rolling the area lightly will help solve any problems
with poor joints or undulations in the grade.
Initial Care
Once sod is laid, water it immediately to a depth of 15 to 20 mm. Keep the
sod moist at all times until it has rooted. If sod dries out, it contracts and
gaps will show in the joints. Later rewatering will not cause the sod to
expand and fill those cracks. Daily watering for one to two weeks is
suggested, depending on how well the sod knits and the amount of
rainfall.
Keep traffic off the lawn until it has knit, and mow as soon as necessary.
Remove no more than 30 per cent of the leaf blade at mowing time. Weed
control can be done using broadleaf selective herbicides immediately if
necessary.
Maintenance
Feeding
Fertilize three times during the growing season, making the last application
before August 15. Apply fertilizer with a spreader to ensure uniform
application. Split the quantity of fertilizer in half, and apply half in one
direction and the other half at right angles to the first application.
For Alberta lawns, a 3:1:2 ratio of N:P:K (nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium) is recommended. An example of a fertilizer with this ratio
might have an analysis of 21:7:14.
4EP
Mowing
Frequent mowing is required to maintain a good turf. Mow to a height of
4 to 5 cm during periods with adequate moisture. In times of drought or in
drier areas of the province, cut the grass to a height of 6 to 7.5 cm. This
approach helps the grass plant withstand environmental stresses (drought)
and also reduces the mowing frequencies. A thatch layer of 1 to 2 cm is
desirable.
A thorough watering to a depth of 2.5 cm or more is better than a light
sprinkling. Light watering can lead to shallow root systems. Be aware that
heavier soils require less water than sandy soils.
Periods of normal drought will not damage an established lawn; the grass
will go dormant until moisture becomes available. This condition of
temporary drought may however, lead to disease problems in the future.
Recommended Mixtures and Rate
of Seed Application
• Where Lawns Can Be Watered
Sunny locations (1 kg/ 100 m2)
70 - 80% Kentucky Bluegrass blend (3 to 4 cultivars) and
30 - 20% Creeping Red Fescue (1 to 2 cultivars) or
30 - 20% Chewings Fescue (1 to 2 cultivars)
Kentucky Bluegrass cultivars
Amazon, America, Banff, Baron, Challenger, Fylking, Glade, Midnight,
Nugget, Touchdown
Creeping Red Fescue cultivars
Boreal, Dawson, Jasper, Shadow
Chewings Fescue cultivars
Victory, Banner
Shady locations (1.25 kg! 100 m2)
20 - 40% Kentucky Bluegrass blend (1 to 2 cultivars) and
80 - 60% Creeping Red Fescue (3 to 4 cultivars) or Chewings Fescue
(1 to 2 cultivars)
Shade tolerant Kentucky Bluegrass cultivars
Glade, Nugget; Ram 1, Touchdown
Creeping Red Fescue cultivars
Boreal, Dawson, Jasper, Shadow
Chewings Fescue cultivars
Victory, Banner
• Where Supplementary Water Is Not Available
(good rainfall areas)
Sunny locations (1 kg/ 100 m2)
30 - 40% Kentucky Bluegrass blend (3 to 4 cultivars) and
70 - 60% Creeping Red Fescue (1 to 2 cultivars) or Chewings Fescue
(1 to 2 cultivars)
Drought tolerant Kentucky Bluegrass cultivars
Amazon, Nugget, Ram 1, Touchdown
Creeping Red Fescue cultivars
Boreal, Dawson, Jasper, Shadow
Chewings Fescue cultivars
Victory, Banner
Shady locations (1.25 kg/ 100 m2)
20 - 30% Kentucky Bluegrass blend (1 to 2 cultivars) and
80 - 70% Creeping Red Fescue (2 to 3 cultivars) or Chewings Fescue
(1 to 2 cultivars)
Shade tolerant Kentucky Bluegrass cultivars
Glade, Nugget, Ram 1, Touchdown
Creeping Red Fescue cultivars
Boreal, Dawson, Jasper, Shadow
Chewings Fescue cultivars
Victory, Banner
Low rainfall areas ( 4 kg! 100 m2)
100% Crested Wheatgrass cultivars: Fairway, Parkway
Worthy of trial
Blue Grama or Canada Bluegrass in mix with Crested Wheatgrass
Saline areas
Worthy of trial
Fults Alkali Grass, Dawson Creeping Red Fescue
• Low Maintenance Grasses
Only use low maintenance grasses in low traffic areas; they are not
suitable as lawn grasses. These grasses do not spread by rhizomes;
therefore, their regenerative powers are poor.
Worthy of trial
Mix of Sheep Fescue, Alpine Bluegrass, June Grass, Crested Wheatgrass
cultivars, Hard Fescue and Canada Bluegrass
Plan your vegetable garden. Try to avoid planting tall plants where they
will shade low growing ones. Plant short season crops next to vining or
spreading types. Draw up an actual plan of what you want to grow where
before you begin work outside.
Begin the outdoor work. Spade or rototill the soil throughly to mix organic
matter, soil and fertilizer, but do not work wet soil. Manure (preferably
applied the previous season at rates up to 50 kg/10 m2), peat moss and
compost are good sources of organic matter. Fertilizers such as 16-20-0 and
10-30-10, applied at the rates up to 1 kg/10 m2, are generally good for the
vegetable garden.
Seed into moist soil at recommended depths and spacings. Most gardeners
will plant seed thicker than required, so thinning may be necessary later
on. However, extra time spent when planting to ensure seeds are not too
close will reduce the time needed for thinning later. See the seed row
spacing recommendations in the table further on in this section.
Cultivate to control weeds and to avoid soil compaction or crusting.
Shallow cultivation will help avoid damage to roots.
Soak the garden thoroughly every 7 to 10 days, and avoid frequent light
waterings, except as required, during the germination period. Watering
early in the morning may help prevent leaf diseases.
Extra Protection
The use of hot caps, floating mulch and tunnels is recommended when
field setting warm season crop transplants. Hot caps and floating mulch
provide some frost protection and create an ideal growing environment.
Plastic mulches may be used in the home garden to help conserve
moisture while black plastic can be used to control weeds. A 1.5 mil plastic
is generally used. The soil must be well prepared and smooth to ensure a
tight fit between plastic and soil. Plastic edges should be buried in the soil
to prevent wind damage to the plastic and plants. Seeds or transplants are
placed in the soil through slits in the plastic.
Hot caps provide two to four degrees of frost protection, so transplants
can be set in the field two to three weeks earlier than normal. Place the hot
cap over the watered-in transplant, and cover the flaps of the cap with soil
to anchor it down. A 5 cm cut to the cap is made on the side opposite to
the prevailing winds. Every week for the next four to five weeks, the size
of the cut can be doubled. At the end of that period, the cap can be
removed and destroyed. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons and
cucumbers will benefit from the use of hot caps.
Tunnels or perforated plastic row covers are beneficial when used with
black or clear plastic mulch. Tunnels are made from ventilated sheets of
clear plastic stretched over wire hoops set in the ground. Because plastic is
such a poor insulator, it provides no frost protection unless it is covered at
night with non-plastic material.
Supporting hoops for the tunnel are placed over the plastic mulch that has
been laid out and are secured at 80 cm apart. The ends of the support
hoops are pushed 15 cm into the soil. The transplants are planted into the
plastic mulch at the recommended distances and watered in. The
perforated plastic is then stretched over the hoops and secured at both
ends with a stake or with soil. All the plastic edges are buried in the soil to
anchor them.
Remove the row cover either when the vine growth reaches the edges of
the plastic cover, when plants start to flower or when the plants start to
suffer from heat scorch. Remove the plastic on a cool, cloudy day to reduce
plant shock. Slitting the row cover down the middle at least two days
before removing it completely helps to gradually introduce the plants to
the outdoor environment.
Floating mulch is an excellent material for tunnel construction. It is a
white, polyester, spun bonded fabric that is laid over top of the crop. The
material is self-ventilating and allows approximately 80 per cent light
transmission. Floating mulch provides good protection for root crops and
cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, etc.) against insect attack.
It is a good idea to use hot caps and tunnels for warm season crops such as
cucumber, muskmelon, pumpkin, watermelon, pepper, eggplant and
tomato (hot caps only) and sweet corn (tunnels).
Planting Tips
Succession seeding extends the season. Successive crops of radish, lettuce,
peas, beans and spinach can be planted once every two weeks until mid
June, to ensure a continuous supply of vegetables throughout the season.
Vegetables can be either seeded directly or transplanted. Transplanting
usually results in earlier production. Firming the soil around transplant
roots and immediate watering will improve transplant survival.
Some vegetables can be planted in the fall, just before the ground freezes.
If fall planting, prepare the soil well in advance; seed slightly heavier than
if for spring seeding. Do not water after seeding. Successful crops for fall
planting include lettuce, spinach, onions (seed), carrots, parsnip, garlic and
parsley.
Planting Vegetable Seed Outdoors
Early as possible
beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale,
kohlrabi, lettuce, onion, parsley, parsnip, peas,
radish, rutabaga, spinach, Swiss chard, turnip
April 20
Chinese cabbage
May 5
broad beans
May 10
potato
May 10 - 20
corn
May 20
bush beans, cucumbers, pumpkin, squash
Late August -
early September garlic
Transplant Vegetables Outdoors
April 20
broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower,
kale, kohlrabi, leek, lettuce, onion seed/sets,
May 9
globe artichoke
May 15
celeriac
May 15 to June 20
asparagus
May 20
eggplant, pepper, tomato
May 25
celery
June 1
cucumber, muskmelon, pumpkin, squash,
watermelon
Beans-broad
May 5
5
10-15
Beans-bush
May 20
3-5
2-5
Beets
early as possible
3-5
5 - 7
Broccoli
early as possible
1
30-45
Cabbage
early as possible
1
45
Carrots
early as possible
1 - 2
2-3
Cauliflower
early as possible
1
45
Chinese Cabbage
April 20
1
60
Corn (sweet)
May 10 -20
3-5
25
Cucumber
May 20
2-3
15
Garlic
late Aug - early Sept
1 - 2
20
Kale
early as possible
1
60
Kohlrabi
early as possible
1
15-30
Lettuce
early as possible
1 - 2
30
Onion
early as possible
2-3
5-7
Parsley
early as possible
1 - 2
5-7
Parsnip
early as possible
1 - 2
5- 10
Peas
early as possible
1 - 2
5-7
Potato
May 10
5 - 10
30-40
Pumpkin
May 20
1 - 2
90
Radish
early as possible
1 - 2
2-3
Rutabaga
early as possible
1 - 2
10-15 |
Spinach
early as possible
2-3
5 - 7
Squash
May 20
1 - 2
90
Swiss Chard
early as possible
2-3
5-30
Turnip
early as possible
1 - 2
10- 15
"Early as possible" - means as soon as spring conditions allow soil tillage and seedbed preparation. In some regions, outdoor seeding may be possible as soon as mid-April.
Asparagus
May 15 - June 20
45-90
Broccoli
30-40
April 20
30-45
Brussel Sprouts
30-40
April 20
60
Cabbage
30-40
April 20
45
Cauliflower
30-40
April 20
45
Celery
70-80
May 25
20
Celeriac
70-80
May 15
20
Cucumber
15-20
June 1
15
Eggplant *
40-50
May 20
60
Globe Artichoke
90
May 9
60
Kale
30-40
April 20
60
Kohlrabi
30-40
April 20
15 - 30
Leek
70-90
April 20
20 ;
Lettuce
30-40
April 20
30
Muskmelon
15-20
June 1
30
Onion - seed/sets
April 20
5-10
Pepper *
50-60
May 20
60
Pumpkin
15-20
June 1
90
Squash
15-20
June 1
90
Tomato *
40-50
May 20
90
Watermelon
15 - 20
June 1
30
plant under cover of hot caps for frost protection see page 1 99
• Recommended Vegetable Cultivars
The cultivars recommended are considered superior, although others not
listed may also be suitable. Most cultivars are generally available through
Canadian seed catalogues.
Globe Artichoke
Green Globe
Asparagus
Franklim, Viking
Beans
Broad: Broad Windsor
Pole: Blue Lake, Kentucky Wonder, Scarlet Runner
Green Bush: Bush Blue Lake Selections, Jade, Podsquad, Slimjym, Strike
Yellow Bush: Gold Crop, Gold Rush, Sungold
Beets
Firechief, Formanova, Ruby Queen, Vermilion
Broccoli
Early: Captain, Major
Late: Arcadia, Emerald City, Eureka, Premium Crop
Brussels Sprouts (transplant only )
Oliver
Cabbage
Early: Balbro, Charmant, Emerald Acre, Green Start, Golden Acre,
Grenadier, Morris, Parel, Polar Green, Tucana
Mid-season: Blue Pak, Costello, Cavalier, Cecil, Centron, Discovery,
Minstrel, Princess, Roundup, Stonehead
Late: Bislet, Brutus, Lennox, Stonar
Savoy: Canada Savoy, Chieftain Savoy
Red Early: Pierrette, Red Meteor
Red Late: Anril Red
Carrots
Imperator: Caro Chief, Caro Choice, Eagle, Fancipak, Legend
Nantes: Bangor, Earlibird, Kamaran, Nantes Corless, Nelson, Presto, Special
Nantes 616
Baby: Baby Orange, Earlibird Nantes
Cauliflower
Early: Amazing, Early Dawn, Siria
Mid-Season: Fremont
Late: Andes, Cumberland, White Rock, White Top
Celery
Tendercrisp, Ventura
Celeriac
Jose, Nemona
Chinese Cabbage
Bok Choi: Bok Choy, Joi Choi, Pale Choi
Suey Choy: Nestor, Optiko
Sweet Corn
Standard (su): Buttervee, Earlivee, Golden Jubilee, Seneca Horizon,
Sunnyvee
Sugar Enhanced (Se): Aladdin, Custer, Geronimo, Maple Sweet,
Peaches ;N Cream, Precocious, Quickie, Speedy Sweet, Stars-N-stripes,
Sugar Buns
Supersweet (Shz): Extra Early Supersweet, Jubilee Supersweet, Mariah,
Northern Supersweet, Seneca Scrumptious, Seneca Appalosa,
Snowbird (White), Sweetie 70
Ornamental: Fiesta, (use tunnels in central and northern Alberta)
Ornamental Mini cob: Chinook, Wampum (use tunnels in central and
northern Alberta)
Popping: White Cloud (use tunnels in central and northern Alberta)
Corn Salad: Elan, Nun 6484
Cucumber
Pickling: Bush Baby, Calypso, Earlipik, Ilonca, Pick-Rite, Pioneer, Spear-
Slicing: Dasher II, General Lee, Jazzer, Slicemaster, Sweet Success
Greenhouse: Cargo, Corona, Farbio, Farona, Mustang
Eggplant
Long: Ichiban, Moneymaker, Tycoon
Oblong: Black Bell, Blacknite, Classy Chasis, Dusky
Kale
Green Curled Scotch
Kohlrabi
Early Purple Vienna, Early White Vienna, Grand Duke
Leek
Titan, Unique
Lettuce
Head: Gemini, Great Lakes Selections, Ithaca, Queen Crown
Butterhead: Buttercrunch, Butter King, White Boston
Cos: Darkland, Parris Island 318, Valmaine
Leaf: Brunia (oak leaf), Grand Rapids, Nevada, Red Sails, Ruby,
Salad Bowl, Sierra
Muskmelon
Alaska, Early Dawn, Earlisweet, Flyer
Onion
Yellow. Copper King, Eskimo, Norstar
Red: Benny's Red, Mars
White: Southport White Globe, White Sweet Spanish
Pickling: Silver Queen, White Barletta, White Pearl
Perennial: Multipliers, Shallots
Bunching: Emerald Isle
Parsley
Leaf: Champion Moss Curled, Unicurl
Root: Hamburg Rooted
Parsnip
All American, Half Long, Harris Model
Peas
Early: Daybreak, Laxton’s Progress, Olympia, Spring
Mid-Season: Knight, Patriot, Novella
Late: Bounty, Green Arrow, Puget, Triplet
Edible Pod: Sugar Ann, Sugar Daddy
Snow. Little Sweetie, Snowflake
Pepper
Hot: Cayenne, Hungarian Wax (yellow), Red Cherry (green)
Sweet Green: Cardinal, Early California Wonder, Parma,
Stokes Early Hybrid
Sweet Yellow: Giant Szegedi, Goldie, Gypsy
Greenhouse: Delphin, Goldstar, Kelvin, Leteus, Mazurka, Nassau, Plutonia,
Tango
Potato
There are approximately 150 potato varieties registered in Canada. The
varieties listed here are a few popular varieties grown in home gardens. The
seed of most of these varieties will be available at garden centres, although
most stores carry only four or five varieties. Shape and maturity vary with
growing location and soil.
Be willing to try other varieties, including specialty or novelty varieties
available at some garden centres.
Early: Carlton - white skin, white flesh, round
Warba - white skin, white flesh, round
Superior - white skin, white flesh, round
Ptarmigan - white skin, white flesh, round
Norland - red skin, white flesh, round
Mid-season: Yukon Gold - light skin, yellow flesh, round
Ranger Russet (Ranger Amisk or Amisk) - tan, netted skin, white flesh,
oblong
Goldrush - tan, netted skin, white flesh, oblong
Sangre - red skin, white flesh, round
Viking - red skin, white flesh, round
Late: Russet Burbank - tan, netted skin, white flesh, oblong
Bintje - yellow skin and flesh, oblong
Kennebec - white skin, white flesh, oblong
Red Pontiac - red skin, white flesh, round
Pumpkin
Vine, Large Fruit: Aspen, Autumn Gold, Connecticut Field,
Jack O’Lantern, Small Sugar, Spookie, Rocket, Triple Treat
Vine, Small Fruit: Baby Bear, Trickster
Bush: Spirit
Ornamental: Baby Boo, Sweetie Pie
Radichio
Meduska, Rubico, Milan, Carmen
Radish
Summer: Champion, Cherry Belle, Comet, French Breakfast, Hunter
Winter: Chinese Rose, Black Spanish
Diakon: H.N. Cross, Silver Star
Rutabaga
Altasweet, Laurentian
Spinach
Unipack, Spokane, Tyee
Squash
Summer: Ambassador, Cousa, Green Magic II, Gold Rush, Richgreen,
Scallopini, Super Select, Zucchini Select
Winter Vine: Baby Blue Hubbard, Buttercup, Golden Delicious,
Vegetable Spaghetti
Bush: Buttercup, Golden Nugget, Table Ace, Table King
Ornamental: Sweet Dumpling
Kabocha (Japanese squash): Black Forest
Swiss Chard
White Stemmed: Fordhook Giant, Lucullus
Large white ribbed: Silver Giant
Red Stemmed: Burpee's Rhubarb, Ruby Red
Tomato
Large Fruited: Blazer, Brookpact, Northern Exposure, Nova, The Juice,
Pilgrim, Shady Lady
Cherry: Cheerio, Red Alert, Subarctic Delight, Subarctic Maxi
Staking: Ultra Girl, Ultra Sonic
Greenhouse: Boa, Caruso, Cobra, Jumbo, Trust, Vendor
Greenhouse Cluster: Cencara
Summer Turnip
Purple Top, Tokyo Cross
Watermelon
Small Yellow: Yellow Baby
Large Red: Canada Supersweet, Stokes Sugar Hybrid
Planning and Planting
Like all plants, herbs are classified as annuals or perennials. Annuals are
seeded each year or they may self-seed. Basil, marjoram, chervil, borage and
dill are examples of annuals. Perennial herbs, like mint, thyme, chives and
horseradish, last for many years. They are started either by seed or division
from another plant. Some mints and thyme are tender perennials that need
protection in the winter while chives and horseradish survive winters
without extra protection.
When planning and planting the herb garden, keep the following points in
mind:
• perennial herbs can be used as a framework
• taller growing plants are best located to the back or center of the garden
• annual herbs can be used as fillers; be sure the annuals are not placed
too close to the perennials as the perennials can choke out annuals
• avoid putting the self-seeding plants in an area where you will be deep
cultivating
• match the herb to the area where it will be growing
• rosemary, thyme or sage prefer a sunny dry spot, while lemon balm,
chervil or the mints thrive in a semi-shaded, moist spot
• sandy loam to heavy clay soils are fine for growing herbs as long as the
soil is well drained
• soils with high fertility are not necessary
• in many cases, the herbs produce more essential oils in soils with low
fertility and, therefore, are more flavorful
Dill and borage are quick to self-seed and can become a nuisance if not
controlled. Horseradish and mint grow quickly and can become quite
invasive. These herbs are best planted into a two to five gallon nursery pot
that has had the bottom cut out and has been sunk into the ground.
In the fall, mulch the tender plants to help them get through the winter.
Trim back the perennial herbs once the frost has killed them. Soak the
garden well with water prior to freeze up to protect the roots from
freezing damage. Apply a mulch to the crowns of newly planted perennial
plants to protect them from being forced out of the ground by freeze-thaw
cycles.
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Propagating Herbs
For directions on starting herbs from seed, see the section in Annuals on
starting transplants.
Steps
Some herbs (mints, rosemary and sage) do not come true to type from seed
and are best started from cuttings. Take cuttings 8 tolO cm long from the
top of the plant, making sure to cut just below a node. Pull off the large
leaves and pinch out the center. Dip the cut end into water, then into a
softwood rooting hormone.
The soil for rooting herbs can be a mixture of 75 per cent sand and 25 per
cent peat moss, or 50 per cent perlite and 50 per cent peat moss. This soil
mixture should be moist, but not soaking wet.
Push a hole into the soil; place your cuttings in the hole and firm the soil
around the stem. A flat or pot can be used for rooting the cuttings. Once
again, maintain a soil temperature of 15 to 20°C and keep the soil mixture
moist by using a cover. The cuttings should be able to be transplanted after
two to three weeks.
Chives and the mints can be propagated by division. In the spring, lift the
clumps of these plants and use a sharp knife or spade to cut the clumps
into sections. Be sure each section has ample roots to support the top
growth.
Harvesting Herbs
Herbs are best used fresh7 but they can be dried or frozen for use during the
long, cold winter.
Harvesting herbs is best done early in the morning because this is when
the essential oil concentrations are the highest. Time the harvest for either
before or just as the flower buds open. Use a knife, scissors or pinching to
remove the tips of new growth. This method stimulates new growth and
delays seed set on the plant.
Preserving Herbs
Start any preserving process by washing and air drying the herbs or by
brushing the soil off the plant leaves and stems with a brush.
Herbs can be dried in a commercial dehydrator following the
manufacturer's instructions, but a dehydrator is not a necessity; there are
alternatives.
Drying in the oven set at the lowest setting will take three to six hours.
Lay the herbs down on a cookie sheet and place them in the oven, leaving
the oven door open slightly for air circulation. Stir and check the herbs
occasionally.
The microwave can also be used for drying. Instead of washing the herbs,
just brush off any soil. Place about a cup of herbs in a single layer between
paper towels. Microwave on high for three minutes. If the herbs do not
then feel brittle and rattle when the towel is shaken, or if the leaves do not
pull easily away from the stem, they are not dry. Return them to the
microwave and run it for 20 second intervals until the herbs are dry. Care
must be taken not to overheat the herbs as they will develop an off taste.
The cut stalks can be hung in bundles from hooks or coat hangers in a
warm, dry, dark well-ventilated room. If you are drying a wide variety of
herbs, label the bundles prior to drying with their name and the date of
harvest.
Use a elastic band to secure the herbs. This band will contract as the stems
of the herbs dry and will keep the bundle intact. A perforated paper bag
over the bundles will catch any leaves dropping from the stems and will
keep the material dust-free. It can take up to two weeks until the herbs are
crispy, but check the herbs daily to monitor their progress.
Leaves can be plucked from the stems and laid out on shallow trays or
screens and air dried this way. The dried leaves can be plucked from the
stems and stored in air-tight metal or glass containers.
Freezing is an alternative to drying. Pluck the leaves from the tough-
stemmed herbs like tarragon or sage and brush off any dirt. Lay the leaves
out on a cookie sheet and freeze them. Once the leaves are frozen, place
them in freezer containers or bags and label. If herbs are going to be used
within six months, blanching is not necessary.
Basil is the exception, it needs to be blanched or it turns black. To blanch,
place the leaves in a strainer and pour boiling water over them. Lay them
out on paper towel to cool. Once cool - freeze them.
Herbs can be minced by hand or by food processor and frozen in ice cube
trays with water. Once frozen, they can be stored in plastic bags.
Herb pastes can be made by mincing leaves or sprigs in a food processor.
While the machine is running, add oil a bit at a time until the mixture has
formed a paste. Freeze the paste in ice cube trays. Once frozen, store the
paste cubes in plastic bags. Frozen herbs can be chopped or used whole.
Defrosting is not necessary: just add them to soups, stews or sauces.
Herbs can also be perserved by making herb vinegars and oils.
Name
Propagation
Culture
.
Anise
Pimpinella anisum
seed
well-drained soil, sun, space
15-20 cm
Basil
seed, sow after ground
moist, well-drained soil, sun, pinch
Ocimum basilicum
warm
to make bushy
Bee Balm
Monarda didyma
seed, spring or fall
division
rich, moist soil, sun to part shade
Borage
Borage officinalis
seed, sow in early
spring
dry, sunny place, will self- seed
Caraway
Carum carvi
seed, sow spring or fall
light soil, full sun
Chervil
Anthriscns cerefolium
seed, sow spring or fall
for secession of greens
rich, organic soil, part shade
Chives
Allium schoenoprasum
division of bulbs, seed
rich, moist soil, can be grown in pots
for winter use
Chives, Garlic
Allium tuberosum
division of bulbs, seed
rich, moist soil, can be grown in pots
for winter use
Coriander
Coriandrum sativum
seed
light soil, full sun
v::':
■ 111 1 11 1 , i
1
leaves and seeds in salads,
bakery goods, duck, pork and
fish, tastes like licorice
annual
use leaves fresh, harvest seeds
when ripe, dry, remove stems and
store
chopped leaves fresh or dry
have dove-pepper taste,
seasoning for meat dishes and
vegetables especially tomatoes
annual, several cultivars
with different leaf colors
cut stalks when starting to flower,
dry for two weeks, store in oil or
frozen paste
leaves in cooking or dried in tea
blends, flowers in salads or
garnish, compliments pork, duck,
curries and several fruits
perennial
harvest when lower leaves start to
yellow; for tea, cut leaves just
before and after flowering; strip
leaves, lay to dry, dry quickly; drying
longer than 3 days discolors leaves
and produces less flavorful tea
young leaves have cucumber
flavor in salads, leaves can be
steamed like spinach, flowers as
garnish in drinks and baking
annual .6-1 m
pick open blossoms, pick fresh
leaves, store as flavored vinegar
seeds flavor baking, soups
sauces, leaves for garnish
biennial, annual strain
also
dry seed heads, harvest seeds in
autumn of second year, harvest
annual in fall
leaves fresh or dried, use as
garnish, mix with salad greens
annual
leaves best used fresh, freezing the
best way for long-term storage
leaves fresh or dried, in salads
or as seasonings, has onion
flavor
perennial bulb
leaves, best used fresh
leaves fresh or dried, in salads
or as seasonings, has garlic
flavor
perennial bulb
leaves, best used fresh
seeds for spices in baking,
dressings
annual, tall .6 m
harvest seeds as soon as ripe, flavor
develops upon drying
Name Propagation Culture
Cilantro
Coriandrum sativum
(leaf strain)
seed
light soil, full sun, sow thick
Dill
Anethum graveolens
seed, self-seeds
sow early, rich soil, secession seed
for continuous harvest
Fennel
Foeniculum vulgare
seed, sow directly
hot sandy soil, needs space
Garlic
Allium sativum
sets, planted mid
August, mulch for winter
protection
moist, well-drained soil, sun to part
shade
Horseradish
Armoracia rusticana
root cuttings with bud,
aggressive
moist, rich heavy soil, full sun
Lemon Balm
Melissa officinalis
seed
well-drained soil, full sun
Lovage
Levisticum officinale
seed division
well-drained soil, full sun
Mint
Mentha spicata (spearmint)
Mentha peperita (peppermint)
rhizomes
rich, moist soil, semi-shade, thin
beds and renew 3-4 years, semi-
shade
Oregano
Origanum vulgare
seeds or division
grows well in poor soil, does well in
container
leaves for flavorings in salads,
soups, salsas
bolts slowly, produces
bushier plant
harvest when plants 15-20 cm tall
leaves for salads, seed stalks
and leaves for pickles, used dry
to flavor meats, fish and
vegetables
annual .6-1 m
leaves at best as flowers open,
seeds as soon as ripe, cut off whole
plant and hang to dry, freeze whole
dill stems, snip off what is needed
and put rest back in freezer
leaves, stems and seeds, used
for fish sauces
annual 1 m
flower stalks harvested before
bloom, eat like celery, leaves best
fresh
chopped cloves for meat, sauces,
whole cloves for pickles
onion-like leaves to
.6 m
harvest following July as leaves
begin to naturally die back, cure in
warm, dry area, store dark and dry
leaves can be added to salad,
root is ground and made into
condiment
.6-1 m give plenty of
room, plant where it is
isolated, vigorous plant
dig root in fall, scrub and store in
crisper of fridge or other cool dark
place
leaves and stems used for tea,
toss fresh leaves into salads or
with vegetable dishes
perennial .6 m
harvest before plant flowers for best
oil content, dry quickly - 2 days at
most
anywhere celery is used
perennial 2.5 m
leaves, stems and roots can be
harvested, blanch and store in
freezer
crushed leaves flavor tea,
cookies, mint sauce
perennial plant in
sunken tubs to keep
plants restricted
pick leaves individually from plants,
use fresh or dried, pick just as
flowering begins, freezing is option
fresh or dried leaves for meat or
vegetable dishes, "pizza herb"
perennial grows .6 m
cut when plant starts to flower, hang
to dry, remove leaves
Name
Parsley
Petroselinum crispum
seed, self- sows
medium, rich soil, sun or part shade
Sage
Salvia officinalis
seed, stem cuttings or
crown division
well-drained soil, cut back in spring
Sweet Marjoram
Origanum majorana
seed, cuttings, crown
division
shade seedlings until established,
full sun, space 20-25 cm apart
Summer Savory
Satureja hortensis
seed
medium, rich soil in sun, make
successive sowings 3 weeks apart
Tarragon (French)
Artemesia dranunculus
division of root crowns
light, well-drained soil, divide
plants every 3 years
Thyme
Thymus vulgaris
stem cuttings, division,
sow seed early
well-drained soil, full sun, cut back
each spring, mulch in winter if
continuous snow cover is not
assured
ll |gH|| n
leaves for seasoning for soup,
meats, salads, garnish
biennial
both leaves and roots keep flavor
when dried or frozen
leaves dried or fresh for poultry
or meat seasoning
shrubby perennial
cut leaves or leafy tops to stalks
when flowers begin, freezing not
recommended
fresh or dried as seasoning for
meat dishes
annual, low-spreading
30 cm tall
cut stalks when starting to flower,
hang to dry
leaves used fresh or dried as
seasoning in soups, egg dishes
and sauces
annual, leaves pungent
and spicy
cut stalks when starting to flower, or
cut leafy tips when plants are in
bud, hang to dry, freezing not
recommended
fresh or dried leaves in sauces
and sea food, ingredients of
tartar sauce, young leaves flavor
vinegar or butter
hardy perennial grows
to .6 m much branched
young leaves and stem tips are best
used fresh, some flavor is lost on
drying
fresh or dried, blended with
other herbs to season meats,
vegetables, soups and sauces
low growing 15-20 cm
cut tops and flower clusters when
plants are blooming, hang to dry,
strip leaves or lay on screen to dry,
freeze in air-tight containers
acid - having a pH value less than 7.0
alkaline - having a pH value greater than 7.0
annual - plants that grow from seed, produce flowers and may or may not
produce new seeds before they are killed by frost in autumn
biennial - plants that grow from seed one season and flower during the
next season
bog garden - a garden of free-draining, moisture retentive soil that water
marginal plants are grown in (water gardening)
candles - new growth of pine and spruce
crown - top growth of plant, including scaffold, secondaries and lateral
growth
day-neutral strawberries - not dependent on day length to produce
flower buds; produce fruit throughout growing season
deadheading - the removal of dead flowers
deep water plants - grown in soil but submerged in deep areas of a pond
floricane raspberries - produce fruit on the second-year canes
emergent plant - grows in soggy soil on the banks of ponds or streams
(water gardening)
everbearing strawberries - set fruit buds during both the short days in
the fall of the previous year and during the current season under long days,
thus producing fruit twice in a year
heading back - removal of terminal growth and some laterals
heel in - to temporarily plant in soil or other media and cover, either for
storage or winter protection
June bearing strawberries - produce single crop each year for three to
four weeks, usually in July; flower buds are produced in the previous fall
0^
laterals - branches that grow from the sides of trees or shrubs
leader - central7 vertical, dominant stem of tree
marginal plant - grown in shallow water near pond edge; roots firmly
planted in soil (water gardening)
marginally hardy - plants that may not be reliably hardy for a given
growing zone
mulch (ground) - protective covering spread on the ground to prevent
erosion, to control weeds and to help retain soil moisture
mulch (plant) - protective covering of straw, peatmoss, dry leaves or grass
clippings mixed with dry leaves applied over plants for winter. Usually
applied to a depth of 5 cm. Use on strawberries, roses and newly planted
perennials going into their first winter
organic matter - soil amendment from animal or plant origin
oxygenator/ submerged plant - grown completely under water, may or
may not be rooted in soil
primocane raspberries - produce fruit on the first-year canes, also
known as fall-fruiting or everbearing raspberries
scaffold branches - main branches of tree
secondary branches - growing from main scaffold branches
spurs - shortened branches with many fruit buds and a cluster of leaves
forming laterally on main branches
strong crotch angles - U-shaped, where branch is attached to the trunk
suckers - shoots arising from root system either below or at ground level,
or the base of the tree
thinning - removal of whole branches (pruning term)
watersprouts - vigorous vertical shoots growing from scaffold or
secondary branches
weak crotch angles - V-shaped, where the branch is attached to the
trunk with a narrow angle
xeriscaping - gardening practices that conserve water such as collecting
water that would normally run off, planting appropriate lawn areas,
grouping plants with similar water needs and proper sprinkler placement
to avoid watering driveways and sidewalks
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