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LIBRARY 


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Ontario 3 Z 
Grape Growiie= 
— hen 

WINE MAKING 


BY 
GEORGE HUSMANN 


WITH SEVERAL ADDED CHAPTERS ON THE GRAPE IN. 
DUSTRIES OF CALIFORNIA 


FOURTH EDITION—REVISED AND REWRITTBS 


MICROFORMED BY 


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CoPYRIGHT} 1805 ‘4 
By ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 


52 
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PREFACE TO THE REVISED EDITION. 


Books are like men, they become old as rapidly as 
their authors, and unless books are revised frequently and 
kept abreast with the times, they fall behind and become 
of little value. And as we, their authors, find that 
toward the end of life time seems to travel with railway 
speed and seemingly flies faster, thus crowding us with 
events and their progress, we become aware that but a 
short space is left us in which to record it. 

When I look back over life’s checkered journey, at 
an age when many are called to join the silent army, the 
wish becomes but natural to leave to those of my viti- 
cultural friends (and I hope I have many throughout 
this broad land) who have had patience with my several 
efforts to become useful, especially to the beginner in 
grape culture, a memento of which I need not be 
-ashamed. That even the revised and enlarged edition 
which preceded this has become very old, that it is far 
behind the times and their progress, no one knows bet- 
ter than I. When I think of the time when I, as a 
youth of twenty, planted the first small vineyard I ever 
took charge of, on my father’s farm in the backwoods of 
Missouri, in 1847, and find now that my pet fruit, the 
grape, has spread over the whole Union, until there is 
not a State or Territory in which its cultivation has not 
been attempted in a more scientific and thorough man- 
ner than my first crude attempt; that the vineyards of 
this broad land now cover millions of acres; that we 
have hundreds of varieties instead of the three or four 

il 


iv PREFACE, 


then known, and that the grape in some form has be- 
come an article of daily diet for millions,—the progress 
seems almost incredible. Yet with all this progress, we 
are still striving for advancement. ‘This is as it should 
be, and when we old men are gone, let us hope that our 
children, inspired by the same love for the work which 
urged us on, will take it as it drops from our hands and 
carry it on to completion. It would seem then but a 
natural desire to round out the work of a lifetime by a 
retrospect of the past ten years—the period which has 
elapsed since the preceding revision—in noting the many 
improvements in the way of new varieties, in pruning 
and training, in marketing and in combating diseases 
and insects injurious to the grape. But living at the 
western extreme of the Union, where the Vinifera is 
almost exclusively cultivated (the American varieties 
being only used as stocks for grafting), I have been com- 
pelled to draw on my Eastern friends for information, 
which they have freely and kindly furnished, and have 
thus made the second, the most interesting part of the 
book. ‘To them, one and all, I tender heartfelt thanks, 
coupled with the hope that the new edition may be 
generally helpful in the work we are striving to 
advance. 

The period elapsing since 1883 has witnessed great 
changes in viticulture. At that date its friends were 
almost discouraged by its manifold enemies of a fungous 
nature, but remedies have kept pace with them until 
now the cultivation of the Vinifera seems possible in 
localities where heretofore only the most hardy of our 
native sorts have been grown. Of course, winter protec- 
tion is necessary in these localities, but the best varie- 
ties are well worth the extra trouble. From several 
parts of Texas and New Mexico I have already the as- 
surance that they can furnish the earlier varieties of the 
Vinifera by the beginning of May; thus, when we join 


PREFACE, v 


North and South, we may hope for an almost continu- 
ous supply of table grapes throughout the Union. 

In new varieties of American origin, we have also 
made remarkable progress. Prof. 'T’. V. Munson of Den- 
ison, Texas, has accomplished wonderful results by cross- 
breeding and hybridizing, and also by his classification 
of vines, It has been my aim in this edition not to pub- 
lish an immensely long list of varieties, but from the 
many to cull the best—varieties which have proved to be 
an improvement on those described in the previous edi- 
tion, and which, as wine or table grapes, have been suc- 
cessful over the largest territory. That each of the 
States of this immense country will have to grow the 
varieties best suited either for table, market or wine, is 
self-evident. ‘The times when enthusiasts may predict 
success for universal grapes are past, never to return. 
We all know now that soil and climatic conditions change 
the product, and that we cannot have a cosmopolitan 
grape. I have therefore omitted classification for 
localities. 

Those who have the progress of humanity at heart, 
are apt to indulge in daydreams which are seldom real- 
ized. One of mine has been to see the American nation 
a community where wine drinking has supplanted the 
use of the more alcoholic beverages, such as whiskey, 
brandy etc., and thereby advanced to a state of true 
temperance I have endeavored to show, in the chapters 
devoted to wine making, how every one can make a pure, 
wholesome, light wine, and I see no cause why I should 
retract anything I nave said in that respect. I still be- 
lieve that the pure, unadulterated juice of the grape is 
the most wholesome of all stimulants, a gift of God to 
man, too good to be abused by intemperance or excess. 
But while I hold this belief, I have no fault to find with 
that class of grape growers who consider it a perversion 
and a snare to use the grape for any purpose but the 


vi PREFAOR. 


table. If this be their conviction they have a right to 
follow the dictates of their conscience, according to us 
who entertain a different opinion, the same right. Let 
us then exercise the broadest charity to each other and 
unite in the desire to do the utmost good to the com- 
munity by giving them the most healthful fruit to eat 
and the most innocent of stimulants to drink. 

No one will question the difficulties in the way of 
writing a book which shall carry some useful informa- 
tion to every one engaged in grape culture, in a country 
so immense as this. The information contained in Part 
II will furnish many reliable data to nearly every one 
here, giving him, at least, a safe basis on which to start 
his experiments. For all is as yet an experiment, and 
happy will he be who, at the close of his life, can sift 
from his numerous trials and experiments a few which 
have been successful and which may serve as a basis for 
further development of the science of viticulture. A 
lifetime devoted to this science has clearly demonstrated 
to me that I could spend another in the same field, find- 
ing something new to acquire at every step. 

Wishing all my viticultural brethren, far and near, 
success in their efforts to advance our noble calling, and 
that they may be able to glean something to assist them 
from this last effort of my pen, I remain, 


Theirs Fraternally, 
GEORGE HUSMANN. 
TaLcoA VINEYARDS, NAPA, CALIFORNIA: 1896. 


x 


THE CULTURE OF AMERICAN GRAPES AND VARIETIES, 


EEE altace." 


eteeadd 


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CONTENTS. 


PART I. 


Classification of Grapes, . ° . 
Propagation of the Vines—By Seeds, ° 
Propagation by Cuttings in Open Air,. ° 
Propagating the Vine by pao e e 
Grafting the Vine, . ° 
The Vineyard—Location, Aspect and Soil, 
Preparing the Soil, . ° 
What Grapes to Plant—Choice of Varletios, 
Planting the Vine, . . . 
Treatment of Vine the First’ Sunimer, e 
Treatment During the Second Summer, e 
Treatment the Third Summer, e e 
Treatment the Fourth Summer, . ° e 
Training Vines on Arbors and Walls, . 
Other Methods of Training, e e e 
The Kniffen System, . ° e 
The Munson System, ° . . 
Diseases of the Vines, . ‘e . ° 
Insects Injurious to the Grape, . : ° 
Frosts—Winter Protection, . e 


Girdling, Thinning, and other matters, e 


PART II 
EXPERIENCES OF OTHER GRAPE GROWERS. 


Grape Growing in Central Ohio, . : 
Grape District of Central New York, . : 
Grape District of Hudson River Valley, . 
Viticulture in Southwest = ° . 
Views of a Veteran, . : . 
Grape Culture in Mississippi, e ° ° 


‘Grape Culture in New Mexico, . : 


Viticulture in Southern Texas, . ° ° 
vii 


MTTTTTT TTT Te | 


BEHEER end 


vil CONTENTS, 


Chapter 
XXVIII. Grape Growing on the Rio Grande, . . ° 
XXIX. Munson’s New Varieties, . ° ° ° . 
XXX. The Chautauqua Grape Belt, . . . . 


PARY? Itt. 
AMERICAN WINE MAKING. 
Chapter 
XXXI. Wine Making, ° ° ° . 


XXXII. Dr. Gall’s and Petiol’s Methods, ° ° ° 
XXXIII. Wine Making Rendered Easy, . ° ° ° 
XXXIV. Concluding Remarks, . e e « . 


PART Iv. 
GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE MAKING IN CALIFORNIA. 


Chapter 
XXXV. The Vine in California, . . ° ° ° 
' XXXVI. Location, Aspect and Soil, e ° ° e 
XXXVII.. Propagation, e e ° e ° . 
XXXVIII. Vineyard Planting, . e ° e . : 
_ XXXIX. Cultivation of the Young Vines, . ° ° 
XL. Selection of Varieties, . ° ° . ° 
Grapes for Red Wine, . e : ° 
Grapes for White Wine, . ° ” . 
Grapes for Sherry, e . ° ° 
Grapes for Market, , e ° . . 
XLI. Cultivation of the Vineyard, . ° e < 
XLII. Diseases and Their Remedies, . ° ° ° 
XLIII. Insect and Other Enemies, . e e . 
XLIV. Frosts, . e ° e . 
XLV. Restoring Infested Vineyards, ° . “ 
XLVI. Marketing Grapes, . e ‘ ° e e 
XLVII. Raisin Making, . e e ° ‘ e 
XLVIII. Other Uses of Grapes, e e e e 2 
XLIX. Wine Making in California, . . e ? 
L. Brandy, . ° e e e ° 
LI. Necessary Cellar Implements, . : e 
LII. Clarification, Filtering and Fining, . e . 
Lill, Aging Wine—Bottling, . e . e . 
LIV. Pure Wine and Temperance, . . 
LV. Extent and Prospects of the Wine inaudtiey, e 
LVL. Wine Songs, e e . © . * © 


gad 


RS 


BRRZSERSSEREERERRBESEEEE 


FART I 


THE CULTURE OF AMERICAN GRAPES 
AND VARIETIES 


CHAPTER IL 
CLASSIFICATION OF GRAPES. 


It is only within the last twenty years that much 
attention has been given to the parentage and classifica- 
tion of our native varieties, it being thought of little or 
no importance whether a variety was derived from one 
or another of the few native species. Recent experience 
has shown that the varieties of a species, however widely 
they may differ from one another in some respects, agree 
in other points, and however far they may be removed 
from the native type, they retain certain characteristics 
which indicate a common parentage. On the other 
hand, if we know from which species a variety is derived, 
we can with some certainty predict its behavior in 
cultivation, and to a certain degree its value. Especially 
has this become of the first importance since the appear- 
ance of our greatest insect enemy, the Phylloxera vasta- 
triz, as we know from experience that certain species 
are entirely exempt from, while others are to a certain ex- 
tent subject to its ravages. ‘This is so generally true that 
the experienced viticulturists of the present day regard 
the origin of the cultivated varieties as of first importance. 
It is not in the character of the fruit alone that our vari- 
eties differ, as they are derived from our native species. 
The foliage, the wood, the tendrils, the roots and other 
parts of the vine retain their peculiarities and hardiness, 
not only as to the ability to endure cold, but also to 
resist the attacks of parasitic plants and insects or what- 
ever else affects the health of the plant—all these traits 
are now known to be transmitted with as much certainty 
as are the form and quality of the fruit, 

3 


4 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


All our numerous varieties now on the list are 
classed according to the species of Vitis, the generic 
name of the grape, from which they are known to be 
derived, and the name of the species is given to the class. 
So when, for the sake of brevity, we speak of a variety 
as an dstivalis, a Vinifera, or Riparia, we simply mean 
that it originated from the class, and bears the charac- 
teristics of the species of that name. All the varieties 
of the European grape are regarded as having had their 
origin in Vitis vinifera of the old world, which, though 
it has been cultivated from ancient times, is found no- 
where in a wild state. The varieties of this, while gen- 
erally unsuccessful east of the Rocky mountains, succeed 
admirably on the Pacific coast and now seem to be suc- 
cessful in Texas and Arizona, Their greatest enemies 
seem to be the fungous diseases, to which they are ex- 
ceedingly subject. But the many preventives and rem- 
edies discovered in the past ten years may give them a 
wider distribution. These varieties differ from our 
native species in their leaves, which are more smooth 
and delicate, and more deeply lobed; the flesh of the 
berries adheres to the skins, while the seeds have a nar- 
rower and longer beak than any of the native varieties. 

That most accomplished botanist and keen observer, 
the late Doctor George Engelmann of St. Louis, deserves 
the credit of first attempting a thorough classification of 
our native species. It was he who first called attention 
to the shape and size of the seeds. He classified them 
into 14 species in the following order: 1. Labrusca 
or Northern Fox; 2. Candicans or Mustangensis; 3. 
Caribea or Caloosa; 4. Californica; 5. Monticola or 
Mountain grape; 6. Arizonica; 7%. Adstivalis or Sum- 
mer grape; 8. Cinerea or Ashy Winter grape; 9. Cor- 
difolia or Winter grape; 10. Palmata or Rubra; 11. 
Riparia or River grape; 12. Rupestris, Sugar or Bush 
grape; 13, Vinifera or European grape; 14. Rotundi- 


AND WINE MAKING, 5 
‘'V LABRUSCA. TAYLOR. CLINTON. OELAWARE. “V.CANDICANS) 
Fig. L. Fig. 2. Fig. 3, Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig 6. 


V CANDICANS. V. CARIBEA V.CAEKIFORNICA, V.MONTICOLA. V ARIZONICA, 
Fig. 9. Fig. 10. Fig. 11. Fig. 12. Fig. 13. 


V ARIZONICA, 
Fig. 14. 


V VINIFERA,. VITIS VINIFERA. V. VULPINA 
Fig. 2,Mummy Grape. Fig. 29, Brusca. Fig. 30, Riesling. hes Caeselas. Fig.32,Bl.Hamb'x. Fig. 33. 


TABLE OF GRAPE SEEDS 


6 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


folia, Vulpina or Southern Fox. The accompanying 
illustration of the seeds on the preceding page will show 
on what peculiarities he based his distinctions, and as 
he was one of the keenest observers of nature, as well as 
a most prominent botanist, his opinions are of great 
weight. This is the old classification. Mr. T. V. Mun- 
son of Denison, Texas, has made an entirely new one. 
To complete this, he has spent much time in studying 
the various species in their native wilds. He has, in 
addition to this work, produced an extremely valuable 
collection of seedlings by skillful crossing and hybridizing. 


THE MUNSON CLASSIFICATION. 


It will be seen that in Series 5 he classes the Vitis 
vinifera or European grape in the Aistivalis series, and 
also the Herbemont, Lenoir and Rulander, which ‘have 
been previously classed as natives or Southern Aistivalis, 
as South European or Vitis Bourquiniana. The latter 
classification cannot be accepted as final for several rea- 
sons. First, the structure of the roots is entirely differ- 
ent, being very soft and subject to the attacks of the 
phylloxera in the Vinifera, while in Bourquiniana, as he 
classes them, the roots are very hard and resistant, and 


cot “4 shave the peculiarity of only one or two starting from the 


base of the cuttings, branching out into smaller rootlets, 
and striking downwards like a bird’s claw; while in the 
-Vinifera the roots start all around the bnds the whole 
es length of the cuttings, and generally do not branch 
mitch. Second, the texture of the wood is also entirely 
different, as all the Vinifera grow easily from cuttings, 
while the Bourquiniana root with difficulty. Third, the 
leaves are also different in structure and ability to resist 
fungous diseases, being thick and leathery, while the 
fruit is but little (if any) subject to mildew and rot; on 
thé other hand, the Vinifera succumbs first of all, so 
much so that their culture in the open air has had to be 


AND WINE MAKING. @ 


abandoned in the Eastern States. In the structure of 
the roots, a greater affinity exists between Vinifera and 
Californica than between Vinifera and Bourquiniana, as 
those of the two first named are soft and spongy, while 
those of the Bourquiniana are hard and firm; so much so 
that Mr. Munson himself classes them as resistant. He 
claims that he has traced Bourquiniana back to Southern 
France. If this is correct, it seems very strange that 
France especially should so largely order, as they did in 
1874-7, from Texas and Missouri, the cuttings of Bour. 
quiniana, because they found them resistant. 

I have thought it my duty to give the subject of 
classification a great deal more room than it would 
otherwise occupy, and to state my objections to a system 
which, with the exceptions named, I consider the most. 
perfect and complete yet introduced. Professor Mun- 
son deserves the thanks of all grape growers for his sys- 
tematic efforts and for the large number of valuable 
seedlings he has produced by crossing and hybridizing. 
He may well feel an honorable pride in his achievements. 
With these few introductory remarks, we will let his 
classification and synopsis speak for themselves. 

Genus Vitis (Tournefort, Linnzus, in part). 

Explanation: H., hardy north; H. H., half hard Me 
north; T., tender north. F pone q 


Section 1. uvites, Planchon. 


Series 1. Riparia. 
Vitis rupestris (Scheele), H. 
Vitis riparia (Michaux), synonym palmata, Vatel. 
Vitis vulpina (Linnzeus), H. 
Vitis Solonis (Hort. Berol.), H. 
Vitis Doaniana (Munson), H. 
All excellent for hybridizing other species. 
Serres 2. Occidentalis. 
Vitis Arizonica (Engelmann), H. H. The Canon grape 
of Arizona; var. glabra (Munson), H. H. 5 


2 
3 
4 


AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Vitis Girdiana (Munson), T., the South California spe- 
cies, mildews. 

Vitis Californica (Bentham), T. The North Califor- 
nia species, mildews. 


Series 8. Coriacea. 


Vitis Champini (Planchon), H. H., sxoathont South- 
west Texas. 

Vitis candicans (Engelmann), H. H. Mustang grape, 
Texas. 

Vitis coriacea (Shuttleworth), South Florida. 


Series 4. Labrusca. 


Vitis labrusca (Linnzeus), H., to which Ives, Concord, 
etc., belong. 


Serises 5. stivalis. 


Vitis vinifera (Linneus), T. European and Asiatic 
grape. 

Vitis Bourquiniana (Munson), H. i. South European, 
Herbemont, C. 

Vitis Lincecumii (Buckley), H. ‘Texas Post Oak grape, 
large, fine. 

Variety glauca (Munson), H. Northern Texas and 
Missouri. 

Vitis bicolor (Leconte), H. Blue grape. Winter grape. 
Ohio and Michigan. 

Vitis estivalis (Michaux), H. Tennessee, Virginia 
and Georgia. 

Vitis Simpsonit (Munson), T. Florida. 


Series 6. Cordifolia. 


Vitis cordifolia (Michaux), H. Frost, “Possum” 
grape. 

Vitis rubra (Michaux), Vitis palmata (Engelmann), 
Southern Illinois, ornamental. 

Vitis monticola (Buckley), H. H. Sweet Mountain 
grape. Southern Texas. 


Series 7. Cinerascentes. 


Vitis Baileyana (Munson), synonym Vitis Virginiana, 
H. Mountain streams Southwest Virginia. 


11 


12 


19 


AND WINE MAKING, 


Vitis Berlandieri (Planchon), H. H. Chalky soils 
Southwest Texas. 

Vitis cinerea (Engelmann), H. Sweet winter grape, 
Southwest Texas and eastward. 

Variety Floridana (Munson). Florida and along gulf 
coast. 

Vitis Caribea (De Candolle), T. West Indies and 
Eastern Mexico. 

Vitis Blancoii (Munson), T. Sierra Madre moun- 
tains, Mex. 


SECTION 2. Puncticulosis. 


Berries 8 Muscadinie. 


Vitis rotundifolia (Michaux), H.H. Muscadine of the 
South. 

Vitis vulpina. Gray and Engelmann. 

Vitis Munsoniana (Simpson), H. H. Bird grape, Mus- 
tang grape (Chapman), Southern Florida. 


20 


21 


i) 
lo 


24 


25 


LW BKMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER II. 
PROPAGATION OF THE VINES.—BY SEEDS. 


While the raising of grape vines from the seed is more 
a labor of love, than of actual profit, yet its influence on 
grape culture generally has been so great, and we are 
already indebted so largely to its zealous followers, that © 
it cannot be entirely omitted in a work like this. We 
can not gain further perfection in varieties without this, 
and the success which has already attended the labors 
of Rogers, Wylie, Campbell, Ricketts, Muench, Miller, 
Weydemeier, Langendoerfer, and especially Mr. Jacob 

Rommel, in giving to us the Elvira, and other varieties 
still more promising, affords hopes of even more impor- 
tant results. 

To begin then at the beginning : choose your seed from 
a good stock. I am inclined to believe that only the 
estivalis and cordifolia (or riparia, as Engelmann has 
it) species will give us the true wine grapes of the country, 
and if we can increase their size somewhat, they will also 
be the best table grapes. We have them already as large 
as the Catawba, and they are more juicy, of finer flavor, 
and less pulpy than the varieties from the Labrusca 
species, while they are much more healthy and hardy. 
Remember that we have already too many varieties, and 
that every new one we add should have some decided 
merit over any of the old varieties, or else be discarded at 
once. 

Choose the best berries and the most perfect bunches, 
from which to take the seed, and either sow in autumn, 
and cover, or keep them over winter, mixing the seeds 
with moist sand, when separated from the pulp, to insure 
ready germination. Sow early in spring, in well pulver- 
ized clay soil, in drills one foot apart, and drop the seeds 


AND WINE MAKING. 1l 


about an inch apart in the rows, covering about three- 
quarters of an inch deep, with finely pulverized soil. 
When the young plants appear, keep them clean and well 
cultivated through the summer; in the fall take them up 
carefully, and put in well drained fine soil, so as to preserve 
their roots in the most perfect condition. It will be well, 
during the summer, to look over them frequently, and if 
any of them show disease in the leaf, pull them up at 
once, as it is useless to save such as are feeble and un- 
healthy. It may also be well to shade the young vines 
for the first month or so, to prevent the sun from scald. 
ing them while yet young and tender, and if any of them 
grow remarkably strong, give them small sticks for sup- 
port. In the following spring they may be transplanted 
to their permanent location in the vineyard or garden. 
The ground for their reception should be moderately 
light and rich, and loosened to the depth of at least 
18 inches. | 

Make a hole about 8 inches deep, then throw in soil 
so as to raise a small mound in the center of the hole, 
about 2 inches high; shorten the top of the young vine 
to about 6 inches, and then place it on the mound, 
spreading its roots well in all directions; fill up with well 
pulverized soil, until the upper eye is even with the sur- 
face of the ground. Then press the soil lightly, place a 
good stake about 4 feet high with each vine, and when the 
buds start, allow but one sprout to grow, which is to be 
tied neatly to the stake. The vines may be planted in 
rows 6 feet apart, and 3 feet apart in the rows, as 
many of them will prove worthless, and have to be dis- 
carded. Allow all the laterals to grow on the young cane, 
as this will make it stocky and short-jointed. Cultivate 
well and frequently, keeping the soil loose and mellow. 

The second season the seedlings will generally make 
from 3 to 4 feet of short-jointed growth; in the fall 
of that year they should be cut back to about three 


12 AMERICAN GRAPE vROWING 


buds, and have the ground drawn up around them for 
protection in winter. Should any of them look very 
promising, fruit may be obtained a year sooner by graft- 
ing the wood of the seedlings upon strong vmes. Young 
vines thus grafted will generally bear the next season (see 
‘* Grafting,” on another page). Next spring, which will 
be their third, remove the covering, and when the young 
shoots appear, allow only two to grow. After these have 
grown about 18 inches, pinch off the top of the weakest 
of the two shoots, so as to throw the growth into the 
strongest shoot, which is to be kept neatly tied to the 
stake or trellis, treating it as the summer before, and 
allowing all the laterals to grow. At the end of this 
season’s growth they should be strong enough to bear the 
next summer. If they have made from eight to ten feet 
of stocky growth, the leading cane may be cut back to 
ten or twelve eyes, or buds, and the smaller one to a 
spur of two eyes. If the vines will fruit at all, they will 
show it the next summer, when only the most promising 
ones should be kept, and the barren and worthless ones 
discarded. Seedlings have this peculiarity: both the 
berry and bunch will increase in size every year for the 
first three or four years ; therefore, if the quality of the 
fruit is only good, the size may come in time. The fruit 
of the Elvira (of which more hereafter), which is now 
about as large in bunch and berry as Catawba, was at first 
not more than half its present size, it having increased in 
dimensions every year for the last eight years. 


AND WINE MAKING. 13 


CHAPTER III. 


PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS IN THE OPEN AIR. 


The easiest and most simple mode of propagating the 
vine is by cuttings planted in the open ground; it 


Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 
OUTTINGS—ALL NEW AND 
PART OLD WOOD. 


can be successfully followed with 
the majority of the Labrusca and 
cordifolia varieties, and a few of 
those from the estivalis, although 
the latter will not take root 
readily, and had better be propa- 
gated by layering and grafting. 

The most general method is the 
following : In fall, when pruning 
the vines, choose the best ripened 
wood of medium size, which is 
better than either the very large 
or very small, and cut it into 
lengths of from 9 to 12 inches, 
cutting close below the lower 
bud, and about an inch above the 
upper, as in figure 1. 

Figure 2 shows a cutting with 
part of the old wood attached ; 
cuttings of this kind will generally 
root more readily than the other. 
These cuttings will mostly average 
three to four buds each ; tie them 
in convenient bundles of 100 to 
250 each, taking care to make 
their lower ends even, and keep 
them either in a cool, moist cellar, 
or bury them out-doors in well 


drained ground, with the upper ends downwards, cover- 
ing up well with finely pulverized soil, The making of 


‘14 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


cuttings may be continued during winter, although they 
will root more readily if cut early, and there is also no 
danger of frost injuring the buds. 

In spring, so soon as the ground is dry enough, the 
cutting bed should be prepared. Choose for this a light, 
rich soil, pulverized at least a foot deep; if not light and 
rich enough, it can be made so by well-decomposed leaf 
mould. Make a cut along the whole length of the bed 
with the spade, deep enough to receive the whole length 
of the cuttings, and press these well down into it, so that 
the upper buds are even with the surface of the earth ; 
fill up with loose soil, and press it down firmly with the 
foot along the line, so as to pack it well around the cut- 
tings. ‘The cuttings may be put close in. the row, say 1 to 
2 inches apart, and the rows 2 to 3 feet apart, so as to 
allow of cultivation either by hand, plow, or cultivator. 
After the bed is finished, mulch with spent tan, sawdust, 
or leaf mould, so as to protect the young shoots from the 
sun; maintain a moist and even temperature during sum- 
mer, and keep the soil open and porous. 

Keep the soil of the cutting bed clean during the sum- 
mer. ‘The young vines will generally make a hard, firm 
growth 1 to 4 feet in length the first summer; they 
will make their roots just where they ought to be, and 
will be by far the best plants for general use, being pre- 
ferable to vines raised either from single eyes or by 
layers. In the fall they should be carefully taken up, and 
heeled-in in well pulverized soil, deep enough to cover 
the crowns, first assorting, so as to make them as even 
in size as possible for planting. They are then ready for 
setting in the vineyard, and a good strong one-year-old 
vine is, beyond a doubt, the best for that purpose. 


AND WINE MAKING. 15 


CHAPTER IV. 
PROPAGATING THE VINE BY LAYERS. 


All varieties of the grape may be readily increased by 
layering, but it is especially valuable for those hard- 
wooded varieties of the e@stivalis species, which will not 
grow readily from cuttings, and vines thus propagated 
will, if handled rightly, make very good plants. To layer 
a vine, shorten in the canes of the last season’s growth to 
about one-half their length, then, early in the spring, pre- 
pare the ground by the use of the spade or fork, to. 
thoroughly pulverize it. Make a small furrow about an 
inch deep, bend down the cane and fasten it firmly in the 
bottom of the furrow, with wooden hooks or pegs. The 
canes may be left thus until the young shoots have grown 
from 6 to 12 inches, then fill up around them with fine 
soil or leaf mould. Canes so layered will generally strike 
root at every joint. The shoots may be tied to small 
sticks, and when they have grown a foot, their tops should, 
be pinched to make them more stocky. In the fall take ~ 
them up carefully, commencing to dig at the end 
furthest from the vine, and separate the plants, by cutting 
between the joints, so that each shoot has a system of 
roots by itself. They are then either planted immedi- 
ately, or heeled in, as described for vines from cuttings, 
to be planted in the spring, 


16 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER V. 
GRAFTING THE VINE. 


The advantages to be gained by grafting are so evi- 
dent that, although it was almost an unknown art forty 
years ago when I began its practice, it has become a ne- 
cessity to every grape grower. It is a little more diffi- 
cult than the same operation on fruit trees, yet it is so 
simple that any one familiar with the use of a sharp 
knife can easily acquire the art. The experience of forty 
. years has taught me that the simplest methods of graft- 
ing the vine are the best for common use, especially 
where it must be done on a large scale, as a protection 
against phylloxera, and where skillful hands are not 
always available. When whole vineyards of resistant 
stocks are to be grafted in a few weeks, the labor must 
be divided. While each operation is simple in itself, 
with only inexperienced labor at hand it is best to give 
each a special task, which he can soon learn to success- 
fully perform. 

With these few preliminary remarks, we will first con- 
sider the advantages to be gained by grafting; secondly, 
the best time to do it; and thirdly, how to do it to be 
most successful. | 

I. Its advantages.—The facility with which new and 
valuable varieties can be increased and their fruit tested : 
If grafts of bearing wood are worked upon strong stocks, 
they will bear a few bunches the same season and a full 
crop the next. The ease by which healthy stocks of no 
value can be changed into the most valuable bearing 
kinds: Varieties which are difficult to grow from cut- 
tings can be propagated with the greatest ease by graft- 
ing. Increased fruitfulness: The temporary obstruction 
by grafting seems to have the effect upon the graft of 


AND WINE MAKING. 17 


making it produce more and finer fruit than on its own 
roots. Last, but not least, grafting affords us the only 
means by which to combat successfully the phylloxera. 
So fur no discovery has been made entitling anyone to the 
large prize offered by the French government for a rem- 
aly or preventive of the ravages of that insect, yet the 
greater part of the destroyed vineyards have been reha- 
bilitated by replanting with American vines; and while 
it seems that they are even more particular as to soil 
than the varieties of the Vinifera, no doubts are enter- 
tained of their power as resistants when the proper soil 
has been found. 

II. The best time to perform the operation.—I differ 
with most of the writers on this subject. I have met 
with the greatest success when the sap was flowing freely, 
which will, of course, vary according to location. Here 
our best time is about the middle of April, though I 
have grafted with as good success up to the middle of 
May, provided the cions were kept dormant in a cool, 
shady place and were selected with the proper care. 
When the sap is flowing freely the junction is immedi- 
ate, and the sap at once ascends the graft. At this time 
all bandages are superfluous, and even injurious, pro- 
vided the stock is strong enough to hold the cion firmly. 
No matter if the stock has already made shoots a foot in 
length, there will be no perceptible difference, though it 
is safe to commence when the buds are swelling and the 
sap is in rapid circulation. As this involves also the 
question of the age of the vine, let me here say that the 
best success I have had was with vines from an inch to 
an inch and a half in diameter, strong enough to hold 
the cion firmly, and that absolutely nothing is gained by 
grafting when the vines are smaller. Wait until the 
vine is strong enough, then give its energies full play by 
inserting good strong cions, with buds sufficient to take 
up the flow of sap; few failures will occur, and you can 


18 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


count upon a few clusters the same summer, with a full 
crop the following season. 

III. How to do it.—Necessary implements: You need 
a good, thin-bladed, sharp knife to cut the cions, a sharp 
saw to cut off large stocks,—the smaller ones 
can be cut with good pruning shears,—a chisel 
for grafting, having a blade two and a half or 
three inches broad in the middle and a wedge 
j on each side (see figure 3), a wooden mallet 
and a few strings of raffia, or other bandage, in 
case a stock should need tying, which is seldom 
the case. Your cions should be of selected 
wood, the size of a 
lead pencil or some- la nN" 
what larger, cut in Manes 
time in winter, tied , 
in bundles and bur- 16.3. GRAFTING CHISEL. 
ied their entire length on the shady side of a 
building or under a tree, to keep them dor- 
mant. Short-jointed, firm wood is to be pre- 
ferred. All can be carried in a basket, if 
one intends to perform the operation alone. If 
several are to work together, of course the tools 
must be divided accordingly. We work here 
generally in gangs of three, the first man clear- 
ing away the ground from the stock, until he 
comes to a smooth place for inserting the cion, 
whether this be at the surface or slightly below. 
The former is preferable if resistant vines are 
to be grafted with non-resistant cions. He 


cox'vor then cuts off the stock horizontally about an 


eRraFtina. inch and a half above a knot or joint. The 
next man cuts the cions to a smooth, long, sloping 
wedge just below a bud (figure 4), then splits the stock, 
either with pruning shears or chisel, according to its 
size. If the stock is not more than an inch in diameter 


AND WINE MAKING. 19 


the shears are best, as only one cion is to be inserted. 
Keep the blade of the shears on the side where the cion 
is to join the stock, so as to prevent bruising, and make 
a long, smooth, sloping cut, a little transversely if pos- 
sible, as the junction will thereby become all the more 
perfect. Then push the wedge of the cion firmly down 
into the cleft, taking care that the inner bark or fiber 
of stock and cion are well joined, as on this principally 
depends the success of the operation. To open the cleft, 
the wedges on the chisel are used if necessary. An ex- 
pert will depend very little on these unless the stocks are 
very heavy, but will open the cleft with knife or shears, 
and then push down the cion to its proper place. The 
inner side of the cion, opposite the bud, should be some- 
what thinner, so that the stock will close firmly on it ; 
the cion should also be inserted far enough so that the 
bud is just above the horizontal cut on the stock. The 
third man follows, presses a little moist earth on the 
surface of the stock, and then hills up around the junc- 
tion to the uppermost buds of the cion, with well-pul- 
verized soil, taking care not to move the cion, and the 
operation is finished. It becomes necessary sometimes 
to tie the stock, when it is not large enough, or from 
some defect in grafting it does not firmly hold the cion. 
In such a case, pass a string of raffia or some other flat 
bandage firmly around the stock and tie it, but in no 
case use grafting wax or clay, as the strong flow of sap 
from all the pores is apt to drown and sour the cion, 
while without obstructing it, it will flow around the 
stock, serving to keep the junction moist and facilitate 
the union. As the whole operation is covered with 
earth, there is no danger of drying up, as is sometimes’ 
the case when fruit trees are top-grafted. 

A very important consideration, to insure success, is to 
equalize the stock and cion. If, therefore, large stocks 
are to be grafted, we must have strong, well-developed 


20 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


wood for the cions, and have buds enough to take up 
the full flow of sap; while small stocks, if used at all, 
should be grafted with small cions of only two or three 
buds. When the stocks are strong, I take two cions 
and insert one on each side of the stock, of full length, 
say from 14 to 16 inches, and with 6 to 8 buds each. 
This has many advantages. The principal one is that 
they will elaborate and work up the entire flow of sap. 
Another is, that if the cions have well-developed fruit 
buds they will produce quite a number of clusters from 
the upper buds, and thus show the character of the fruit 
the first year. I have already picked a thousand pounds 
of grapes from an acre thus grafted, the first summer, 
and a full crop of five or six tons per acre the following 
season. Another advantage is that it establishes the 
crown of the graft at the right distance from the ground, 
as the three upper buds will produce the canes for the 
next season’s bearing. If both cions grow, cut off the 
weakest above the junction the next spring, leaving only 
the strongest. I generally find that the whole surface 
of the stock is covered by the new growth and that the 
junction between stock and cion is perfect. Another 
advantage is, especially in California, where we plow 
and cultivate close to the vines, and where some of the 
workmen are careless, they are more apt to run over and 
_ disturb small grafts than the large ones, which are pro- 
tected by hills of earth above the surface; nor are the 
young shoots disturbed and broken so easily by careless 
hands, or high winds. 

I have been so explicit about this method, because I 
-have found it more successful and easier to perform than 
any other. I take it for granted that the aim of every 
practical grower is to reach the best results in the short- 
est possible time. There are, of course, many other 
methods, but better adapted to younger vines. Fore- 
most among these is the whip, or so-called English cleft 


AND WINE MAKING. 21 


graft, which is familiar to most of my readers, and” 
which the French and Germans use both on cuttings 
and on one-year-old plants, and which are packed away 
in sand or sawdust after being grafted in the shop. I 
have tried this method many times in former years, plant- 
ing the grafts carefully in the nursery, but never had a 
success worth mentioning, owing, I suppose, to the time 
-when it was done, and also because there is thus not 
enough circulation of sap to form an immediate junction 
and produce a thrifty growth. 

This method is also practiced upon young vines in the 
vineyard with better results, if done late enough. But 
it is a more difficult operation, not so easily taught to 
unskilled hands; necessitates tying, and the cions are 
more easily moved out of place. So I have abandoned 
it altogether. I wait until the vines are strong enough 
to hold the cions firmly, which is generally the case the ~ 
third or fourth summer, then cleft graft as described, 
and have at least ninety per cent. to grow, as well as a 
crop the next summer. ‘This is the most economical, as 
well as the quickest and easiest way to obtain an even 
vineyard. French experts concede that by their method 
of grafting in shop and then planting the grafts in nurs- 
ery for two years, where they are irrigated and then 
transplanted into the vineyard, it takes six years to pro- 
duce a bearing vineyard, while we can do it in four and 
have but one transplanting to do. True, they claim 
that experts can do the work, but we can get along with- 
out experts, and must do so as they are seldom to be 
had, and then only at high wages. 

The so-called Champin graft, called thus after its in- 
ventor, Aimee Ohampin, is only a variation of splice 
grafting, and hardly needs a separate description. 

A mode of grafting much in vogue in Germany and 
Hungary, is the green or herbaceous, fully described 
and illustrated in a treatise published by Prof. Herman 


> AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Goethe. I have not practiced it in the East, but tried it 
in California thoroughly and without success. The 
summers are too hot for it, and soit has to be done in 
June and July, above ground. I believe that it will 
never be generally practiced in America. To make it 
succeed at all, the grafts must be shaded in some way. 
As we must, in this practical country, try to reduce ex- 
penses to a minimum and plan for quickest returns, the 
method of cleft grafting described above will be found 
to alone fulfill the desired conditions. I do not, there- 
fore, consider it worth while to describe minutely other 
methods of but little value to the practical grape grower. 
I sum up briefly in a few rules, which I have taken as 
my guide here, where grafting plays such @ very im- 
portant part in viticulture. 


1. Let your stocks be chosen with a view of their 
adaptation to the soil, and do not graft until they are 
strong enough, say from an inch to an inch and a half 
in diameter. | 

2. Choose your cions with great care, of medium, 
short-jointed, well-ripened wood of last season’s growth, 
and keep them dormant, in a cool place, covered with 
sand or earth. 

3. Wait until the sap in the sinks | is in rapid motion, 
-at least until the buds swell, and then perform the oper- 
ation quickly, taking care that the inner barks of stock 
and cion fit closely. 


4, Leave buds enough on the cion to elaborate and 
circulate all the sap, thereby avoiding black knot and 
all diseases which are apt to follow late frosts, excessive 
pruning, etc. 

5. Hill up around the junction so as to protect it 
from drying out and to protect the graft, but do not tie 
or put on grafting wax or clay, as by so doing you may 
drown and rot the cion. 


AND WINE MAKING. 23 


After this short recapitulation of the principles which 
should govern in grafting, we come to the 


AFTER TREATMENT OF THE GRAFT. 


This is very simple. A stake should be driven close 
to the graft immediately after grafting is finished, and 
the young shoots, when they appear, tied to it for sup- 
port, as they generally start vigorously and are easily 
broken off, or blown off by high winds. Do not be dis- 
couraged if some time elapses before they start. I have 
often had them remain dormant until July or August, 
and then make a rapid growth. If suckers from the 
stock appear, as is generally the case, they should be re- 
moved at once, taking care to cut them close to the 
stock, so as to have no stumps or dormant buds. When 
young they generally come off easily. Tying and suck- 
ering should be repeated every week or ten days at least. 
As long as the cion remains fresh and green it may be- 
gin growing at any time. Of course, care must be taken 
not to disturb the cion. If everything does well, there 
will be from three to four canes from the upper buds, 
and these may be treated just as any other bearing vine, 
in pruning. 

AFFINITY OF STOCK AND CION, 

A few remarks on this subject, suggested to me by 
experience, may not be out of place. As a general rule, 
vines of the same class will readily unite. For instance, 
Labrusca on Labrusca, Riparia on Riparia, etc. I have 
also found that Aistivalis varieties will graft easily 
on Labrusca—for instance, Norton and Cynthiana graft 
easily on Concord, Catawba, or Isabella. Most of the 
Vinifera varieties also graft readily upon Riparia, or 
Aistivalis, although there is a difference. Of the varie- 
ties I have tried to graft, the easiest to take were Sau- 
vignon Vert, Semillion, Marsanne, Green Hungarian or 
Vert Longue, Franken Riesling, Gamay Teinturier, Ma- 


24 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


taro and Grosse Blaue, while Sultana, Refosco and Yel- 
low Mosler did not take as readily, though a large per- 
centage grew. On the Rupestris and Arizonica the 
junction was still more difficult. I cannot recommend 
these for stocks on account of their propensity to 
sucker, and also because they show less adaptability to dif- 
ferent soils than do Riparia and Aistivalis. The Califor- 
nica takes the graft very readily, but is not entirely re- 
sistant and succeeds only on fertile, rather moist soils. 

Budding has often been tried, but with scant success, 
and I cannot recommend it. 

I have given much space to this subject, because I 
think it very important that every grape grower should 
be familiar with the most practical mode of operation, 
and any one who does not understand it cannot claim to 
be advanced in his profession. 


AND WINE MAKING. 25 


CHAPTER VI. 
THE VINEYARD—LOCATION, ASPECT AND SOIL. 


That the selection of a proper location, as well as the 
best soil, is of great importance if the grower intends to 
reach the best results, no one will deny. Generally it 
may be said and taken as a rule, that locations free from 
frosts, and exposed to a free circulation of air, are best 
adapted to the grape, but they should also be underlaid 
with the most suitable soil. That this should be nat- 
urally very rich is not so important as that it should be 
loose and friable, so that the roots of the vine can pene- 
trate it easily and draw nourishment as well as moisture 
from below. The best results will be obtained on a soil 
which is naturally porous, so that it will drain easily 
and not retain moisture on the surface. Such a soil will 
also retain moisture well, and thus the vines will not 
suffer, either from ‘‘wet feet” or extremes of drouth. 
Soils underlaid by hardpan, especially where they con- 
tain alkali, should be carefully avoided, as they will 
never produce a large or healthy crop of good grapes. 
Those locations which are free from malaria may gener- 
ally be considered as safe for the grape, and where ma- 
laria prevails we cannot expect to grow good and healthy 
grapes of the best quality. This will apply in its closer 
‘sense only to those who intend to make grape-growing 
their business, either for market or wine. For the ama- 
teur, who only wishes to grow grapes for family use, and 
has already a homestead, it will be easy to choose a loca- 
tion somewhere on his grounds as favorable as he can 
find it, where he can grow grapes enough for his pur- 
pose. Some varieties are so hardy and healthy that they 
will succeed anywhere, and he ought to choose these, 
contenting himself with them, even if they are not of 


26 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


first quality. Steep hillsides, although they will gener. 
ally produce quality, should be avoided by the profes- 
sional grower, as they are difficult and expensive to work 
and are liable to wash with heavy rains, which soon 
carry off the surface soil. The aspect of the vineyard is 
not of so much importance here as it is in Europe, 
where the southern is preferred, because growers need all 
the sun they can get to properly ripen their grapes. On © 
the contrary, in this country, except in the extreme 
north, we suffer from sun-scald during July and August, 
and as northern and eastern aspects generally have the 
richest and deepest soil, they are usually preferred to 
the southern and western, which are exposed to the full 
rays of the noon and afternoon sun. As to the quality 
of the soil, it may be presumed that any land which will 
grow fair grain is rich enough for grapes, and contains 
the elements necessary for their culture. I do not 
think, however, that an extremely poor soil can be de- 
pended upon to produce either quantity or quality. For 
market we want a perfect fruit—one that pleases the 
taste as well as the eye; and for wine we must havea 
product rich in sugar, of fine flavor and quality. It 
would seem unnatural to suppose that starved vines 
could produce this, and as unreasonable to expect it 
from a rank and therefore unhealthy growth on land 
which is too rich. Therefore, a soil of medium fertility, 
and well drained, will generally produce the best results, 


AND WINE MAKING. 27 


CHAPTER VII. 


PREPARING THE SOIL. 


For the preparation of the soil, the foundation of his 
work, the grape grower must be guided in his operations 
by the condition in which he finds his ground. If it is 
an old field, free from stumps and stones, or a piece of 
prairie soil, it will be easily prepared. Break up the soil 
with a good large turning plow and strong team to pull 
it, and follow in the same furrow with a subsoil stirring 
plow, which merely loosens the ground; and do this as 
deep as possible, if 20 inches, all the better, though 16 
inches in all will do if you cannot go deeper. 

If, however, the land is a new piece of forest soil, the 
task will be much more difficult. This must be care- 
fully grubbed of stumps and roots, and although the same 
implements will, in a measure, suffice, yet the turning 
plow should have a sharp coulter in front, and the sub- 
soil plow should also have a strong and sharp coulter, 
with merely a wedge-shaped, strong share to stir the 
soil. Besides, much more power will be necessary. In 
stony soil, the pick and shovel must take the place of the 
plow, as it would be impossible to work it thoroughly 
with the latter ; but I think there is no advantage in the 
old method of trenching or inverting the soil. If we ex- 
amine the wild vines of our forests, we will generally find 
their roots running along in the surface soil. It is un- 
natural to suppose that the vine, the most sun-loving of 
all plants, should have its roots buried several feet below 
the surface, where neither sun nor air cen reach them. 
Work the soil well and thoroughly, and as deep as you 
can, it will be labor well invested ; will be the best pre- 
ventive against drouth, and the best drainage in wet 
weather, but leave it in its natural position, and do not 


28 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


plant too deep. Rest assured if the roots find anything 
congenial below, they will hunt it up. Should the soil 
be very poor, it may be enriched by ashes, bone dust, 
manure, etc., but it will seldom be necessary, as most of 
our soil is naturally rich enough, and it is not advisable 
to stimulate the growth too much, as it will become rank 
and unhealthy, and impair the quality of the fruit. 

Wet spots may be drained by gutters filled with loose | 
stones or tiles, and then covered with earth. Surface 
draining can be done by running a small ditch or furrow, 
every sixth or eighth row, parallel with the hillside, and 
leading into a main ditch at the middle or end of the 
vineyard. Steep hillsides should be terraced or benched, 
but as this is laborious and expensive, they should be 
_ avoided. 


AND WIE MAKING. 26 


CHAPTER VIII. 
WHAT GRAPES TO PLANT—CHOICE OF VARIETIES. 


Any one who attempts to advise beginners what vari- 
eties of grapes to plant is treading on very hazardous 
ground. Such advice is much more difficult to give 
now than it was ten years ago, when the area planted to 
grapes was far more limited, both East and West. 
Comparatively few varieties of American grapes only 
were cultivated east of the Rocky mountains, while to 
the westward of them varieties of the Vitis vinifera 
were exclusively grown. That isall changed now. The 
geographical boundary between the American and the 
Vinifera varieties is by no means sharply defined. Many 
of the latter are now cultivated in some parts of Texas 
with encouraging success, while vineyardists in the Pa- 
cific States have to rely on American stocks at least for 
their only security against the insidious and destructive 
phylloxera. Grape culture has extended into regions 
where it was not thought of ten years ago, and enterpris- 
ing propagators have originated great numbers of new 
varieties. A few of these have attained popularity as 
standard sorts; others are more or less promising; and 
a still greater number are on trial, or have proved un- 
worthy of cultivation. Only time and patient trial can 
determine the permanent value of these and the other 
new varieties which nearly every year brings forth. 
The nearer I approach to the boundaries of the ‘‘ unseen 
land,” the more conservative do my views become, and 
the greater my reluctance to offer dogmatic advice 
which, however well intended, may prove misleading in 
the end. The best advice that I can offer to beginners 
in grape culture is to visit the vineyards of their neigh- 
bors and learn what varieties have been successful there. 


80 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Great results have been achieved by Munson and Jaeger, 
in producing crosses between native varieties and hy- 
brids of native and foreign origin. ‘They are very prom- 
ising, but have not been tried long enough to become 
fully established. ‘The veteran John Burr, of Leaven- 
worth, Kansas, produced many new varieties, some of 
which promise to be permanent memorials of his active 
usefulness as a horticulturist. There are many others 
who are entitled to the grateful consideration of grape 
growers for their ceaseless endeavors to promote the cul- 
ture of our native grapes. The results of their’ efforts 
are already seen in the increased success and confidence 
which attend the business of grape growing and the large 
increase of the area devoted to it. 

Under the circumstances it does not seem advisable to 
designate a list of varieties from the almost countless 
numbers recommended in the catalogues of nurserymen, 
but only to enumerate a few of the established varieties 
which hold their position in public favor, and a selection 
of newer varieties ‘‘ promising well.” It seems useless, 
if not preposterous, to publish a list of nearly a hundred 
varieties, as a firm has recently done, for the mere pur- 
pose of ‘‘giving the public the most complete list ever 
published.” Such a list only serves to “‘ make confusion 
more confounded,” and be more likely to mislead than 
to help growers to make proper selections. 

A few of the older varieties retain their ground and 
are regarded as standard. They are so well known that 
it is needless to describe them here. Persistent spray- 
ing and intelligent care have greatly increased the health 
and hardiness, and added to the prospect of success, 
of many varieties formerly regarded as too tender or too 
liable to disease for successful cultivation. The follow- 
ing are well tried and generally known, viz.: Catawba, 
Concord, Cynthiana, Delaware, Elvira, Goethe, Herbe- 
mont, Herbert, Lady, Lindley, Martha, Norton’s Vir- 


AND WINE MAKING. 31 


ginia, Pocklington, Triumph and Wilder. Let it be dis- 
tinctly understood that I do not recommend these every- 
where, but they have been cultivated so long and in so 
wide an area that every person may easily learn whether 
any one of them is likely to be successful in his own 
locality. 


VARIETIES PROMISING WELL. 


Many of these may have been tried and proved in 
some localities, while comparatively unknown in others. 
My aim is to describe only the des¢ of them,—those which 
I regard as worthy of general trial. There may be 
others fully as good, which have either not been tried 
long enough or in sufficiently extensive area to deter- 
mine their merits. Among the most promising of all 
are probably those of T. V. Munson and of Hermann 
Jaeger, but as they open up a wholly new field, I have 
preferred to let them speak for their seedlings, as they 
do in Part II of this volume. I can assure the reader 
that their statements are entitled to implicit confidence. 

I have made no attempt to classify the following vari- 
eties, but indicate the origin of each in parentheses, leav- 
ing each reader to select such as may be desired for his 
own locality. | | 

Barry (Hybrid).—One of the best of Rogers’ hy- 
brids. Bunch full, medium, broad, mostly shouldered ; 
berries large, round, black and tender; ripens about 
with Concord ; vigorous and productive. 

Bay Strate (Hybrid).—Grown by Wagener & Co., 
Pulteney, N. Y. Seedling of Black Hamburg crossed 
with Marion. Vigorous and hardy; large, retentive 
foliage; bunch medium, shouldered, handsome; berry 
oblong, red, holds well to the stem, tender, pulp sweet, 
sprightly and juicy ; early, but a good keepor, 

Buiack DEFIANCE (Hybrid of Labruscaand /invfera). 
—Originated by 8S. W. Underhill, Croton, N.Y. Large 


82 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


and handsome; bunch large, well shouldered, loose; ber- 
ries full, medium; foliage good; late, ripening about 
with Catawba, or even a little later. 

CoLERAIN (Labrusca).—Seedling of Concord, pro- 
duced by D. Mundy, Colerain, Ohio. Very promising. 
Vine a strong grower, healthy and hardy, and an abun- 
dant bearer; very early but hangs well to the vine; 
bunches shouldered, medium, as are the berries, which 
are light green with delicate bloom; skin thin; very 
juicy and sweet yet vinous; generally but one seed to 
each berry. 

DiamonD (Labrusca).—Cross between Concord and 
Iona, produced by Jacob Moore, of New York. Vigor- 
ous grower, retaining its leaves well, which are large and 
light green. Bunch large, moderately compact, shoul- 
dered; berry about the same size as Concord, adhering 
well to the bunch; greenish white, with yellow tinge; 
flesh melting and juicy, sweet, free from foxiness. Very 
hardy, and has produced good crops for ten consecutive 
years. Considered superior to all the older white grapes. 

DucueEss.—Cross between a white seedling of Concord 
and Delaware, or Walter, by A. J. Caywood & Son, 
Marlboro, N. Y. Bunch medium to large, long, shoul- 
dered; berries medium, white, transparent, juicy, fine 
quality; ripens about with Concord. In its original 
habitat it is hardy and healthy, a strong grower, and pro- 
ductive ; keeps and ships well. 

EARLY OHI0.—Originated with R. A. Hunt, Euclid, 
Ohio. A chance seedling, which attracted attention: by 
its early ripening. LEarliest of all, ripening a week be- 
fore Moore’s Early and three weeks before Concord, and 
consequently brings the highest price in the Cleveland 
market. Bunch medium, shouldered; berry black, 
round, somswhat smaller than Concord, firm in texture; 
flavor spicy, pleasant; hangs well to the stem, and 
therefore ships well. 


ey. 


AND WINE MAKING. 33 


Eaton (Labrusca).—Grown by Calvin Eaton, of Con- 
_cord, N. H. Vine a strong, rank grower, resembling 
Concord, and the grape ripens about the same time with 
it. Bunch large, sometimes weighing eighteen ounces, 
compact; berries very large, round, black, covered with 
blue bloom. Very juicy, somewhat pulpy, not as sweet 
as Concord, but less foxy. 

Eciipsze.—Originated by John Burr, the indefatigable 
experimenter, to whom we owe many valuable varieties 
from unknown seed. Bunch large, doubly shouldered, 
rather loose; berry very large, white, tender and juicy, 
sprightly, sweet, rich and vinous; hardy and productive. 
Ripens about the same time as Concord. 

Earty Victor (Labrusca).—Same origin. Bunch 
medium, shouldered, compact; berry medium, round, 
black, juicy, sweet and sprightly. In quality one of the 
best of the earlier varieties ; vigorous, hardy and produc- 
tive; very early; has rotted in some locations. 

EmpixE Statz.—Appears to be one of the most yal- 
uable of the many seedlings of J. H. Ricketts. Claimed 
to be across between Hartford and Clinton. If s0, it 
has departed strangely from its parents, as it has a slight 
Vinifera flavor. » Bunch large and handsome, shouldered, 
rather loose; berry medium, white, tinged with yellow, 
covered with white bloom; rich, sweet and sprightly, 
without foxiness ; productive and keeps well. 

EvurEKA.—Produced by Dr. Stayman, Leavenworth, 
Kansas, from seed of Delaware. Good grower, hardy, 
healthy and productive. Bunch large, shouldered, compact 
and handsome ; berry red, medium, tender, sweet, spright- 
ly and vinous. Claimed to be fully equal to Delaware, but 
with heavier fo/iage and bunches ; medium early, 

ExQuisiITE.—Same origin. Medium grower, healthy, 
hardy and productive. Bunch medium, compact; berry 
below medium, red, very sweet, juicy and vinous, with- 
out pulp; ripens with Delaware, 


34 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


GENEVA.—Produced by Jacob Moore, of New York, 
from a hybrid of Black Fox with Muscat of Alexandria, 
and this hybrid recrossed with Iona. Vine hardy and 
productive ; bunch medium, not shouldered, rather loose ; 
berry above medium, oblong, green, transparent, with 
little bloom; pure flavor, and sprightly ; medium early. 

GREEN MountaIn.—Claimed to be at the head for 
earliness, productiveness, good quality and vigorous 
growth. It isa Labrusca, found in a garden on a slope 
of the Green mountains, in Vermont. As it is one of 
the lately introduced varieties, it needs further trial to 
' determine its actual merits. It is claimed for it that it 
will mature in a wider territory than any other variety ; 
that it resembles the Vinifera more than any other native 
grape, and is the grape for every one to plant, being a 
young and profuse bearer. Bunch full medium, hand- 
somely shouldered; berry medium, round, greenish 
white; skin thin; pulp tender and sweet, slightly vin- 
ous; free from foxiness; seeds small. . Very early, ripen- 
ing the last week in August. Stephen Hoyt’s Sons, 
Connecticut, are the introducers and propagators, and 
if it fulfills one-half they say in its favor it will be a very 
valuable grape. . 

Hayes (Labrusca).—Produced by John B. Moore, 
Concord, Mass. Same origin as Moore’s Early. Bunch 
medium, moderately compact, shouldered; berry me- 
dium, round, greenish white changing to amber yellow ; 
flesh tender, juicy and delicate; fine flavor, no foxiness. 
Foliage thick and heavy; vine vigorous, hardy and pro- 
ductive; ripens at least a week earlier than Concord. 

Hosrorp (Labrusca).—Seedling from Concord, grown 
by Geo. Hosford, Ionia, Michigan. Vine a vigorous 
grower, hardy and good bearer. Bunch large, shoul- 
dered ; berry very large, round, black, with fine bloom; 
pulp tender and juicy; sweet and pure, not foxy; skin 
thin ; ripens a few days before Concord. 


AND WINE MAKING. 85 


IpEAL.—This new grape has won very high praise 
wherever it has been tried. Grown by John Burr from 
seed of Delaware. Vine strong, hardy, healthy and pro- 
ductive ; bunch large, shouldered, rather compact ; berry 
large, red, tender, juicy, rich, sweet and vinous, without 
pulp. Claimed to be better thap Delaware, and is much 
more showy. 

JEWEL.—Same origin. Claimed to be the very best 
early grape that has ever been fully tested. Vine mod- 
erately vigorous, healthy and hardy; bunch medium, 
compact, shouldered; berry full medium, black, slightly 
pulpy, sweet, rich and sprightly, of best quality; skin 
rather tough. Ripensa week before Moore’s Early; will 
hang well on the vines and ships well. 

JumBo (Labrusca).—Seedling from Concord, grown 
by Mrs. R. Rose, Marlboro, N. Y. Bunch very large, 
compact, shouldered ; have weighed as much as twenty 
ounces each; berry very large, blue black, with fine 
bloom; good quality and sells well on the New York- 
market. LHarlier than Concord. 

Keystone (Labrusca). Produced by John Kready, 
Lancaster Co., Pa., and supposed to be a seedling of the 
Concord. Vineastrong grower, healthy, holds its foliage 
well. Bunches large, compact and shouldered; berry 
about size of Concord, black with blue bloom; skin 
tough; ripens with Concord, but will keep in a cool, 
dry place until March. 

Ligutroot.—Produced by W. H. Lightfoot, Spring- 
field, Ill., from seed of Niagara. Vine vigorous and 
healthy. Bunch medium to large, shouldered ; berry 
full medium, roundish and uniform, with thin but tough 
skin, and holding firmly to the stem; color light green, 
changing to yellow when fully ripe, with delicate bloom ; 
flesh melting without pulp; pure flavor, juicy and sweet, 
Ripens after Concord. 

Ma@natre.—Originated at Leavenworth, Kansas, and 


36 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


is said to be a hybrid. Vine vigorous, hardy, and very 
productive. Bunch very large, shouldered, compact ; 
berry white, large, tender, sweet, with slight native 
‘aroma. Said to be free from rot and mildew, and in 
every way reliable. Ripens with Concord, but keeps 
well on the vine. 

MatcuLess.—Originated at Leavenworth, Kansas, by 
John Burr, from unknown seed. Vine vigorous, 
healthy and productive. Bunch very large, compact, 
handsome ; berry very large, black, pure in flavor, sweet 
and sprightly hangs well to the bunch after ripening; 
@ very promising variety. 

Mitts (Hybrid ).—Grown by Wm. H. Mills, of Ham- 
ilton, Ontario, and introduced by Ellwanger & Barry. 
Cross of Muscat-Hamburg with Creveling. Vine vigor- 
ous and productive; foliage large and healthy. Bunch 
very large, compact, shouldered. Berry round, large, 
black, covered with thick bloom; flesh firm, juicy, 
breaking, with a brisk, sprightly fiavor ; skin thick ; ber- 
ries adhere well to the stem. Ripens somewhat later 
than Concord and keeps well. 

MonrTEFIORE.—Cross of Elvira with Ives. Produced 
by Jacob Rommell, of Morrison, Mo. Vine healthy and 
hardy, very productive, and free from mildew and rot. 
Ripens later than Concord, and makes a fine red wine. 

NrIaGARA.—This is rather an old variety, introduced 
about fifteen years ago by Hoag & Clark, Lockport, 
N. Y., but reports concerning its success are so conflict- 
ing that I have thought best to class it here with newer 
varieties. It is largely planted in some localities, while 
in others it is much subject to rot. Bunch very large 
and handsome, mostly shouldered; compact. Berries 
full medium, round, white, with amber flush on sunny 
side; skin thin but tough; carries well; little pulp; 
sweet, with peculiar agreeable aroma. Ripens with Con- 
cord. Vine vigorous and very productive. 


AND WINE MAKING. 37 


Owxreo.—Origin questionable. Produced by John 
Burr. Vine vigorous, hardy and productive. Bunch 
medium, compact. Berry very large, red, tender, juicy, 
sprightly and vinous; quality best. 

OsweEGo (Labrusca).—Free from disease as far as 
known. Vine vigorous, healthy, productive. Bunch 
very large, compact, shouldered. Berry large, tender, 
juicy and sprightly; black, better than Concord, more 
showy and keeps better. Much valued in Kansas. Ori- 
_ gin unknown. 

Ozark (#stivalis).—Originated with Dr. J. Stay- 
man, Leavenworth, Kansas. Very vigorous, hardy and 
productive. Bunch very large, compact, shouldered. 
Berry large, black, rich and sprightly, with a peculiar, 
pleasant flavor; free from disease. Ripens later than 
Concord, and will hang on the vines until frost. Re- 
garded as one of the best market and wine grapes. 

PaRAGon.—Produced by John Burr, from unknown 
seed. Vine vigorous, hardy, productive and free from 
disease. Bunch large, compact, shouldered; berry 
large, black, juicy, rich and vinous, without pulp; 
ripens with Concord, but will hang and keep well on the 
vine until late frost. 

PERFECTION.—Originated by Dr. Stayman, from seed 
of Delaware, and is called the best and earliest red grape 
in Kansas. Hardy, healthy and productive. Bunch 
long, shouldered, compact and handsome; berry medi- 
um, tender and sprightly, with little pulp, or native 
aroma; much like Delaware, but larger in bunch and 
berry. 

RocHESTER.—Produced by Ellwanger and Barry, 
Rochester, N. Y., from seed of mixed varieties. Vine 
healthy, hardy and productive ; bunch large, shouldered, 
very compact; berry full medium, round, dark purple, 
peculiar color, with white bloom; very sweet, vinous 
and tender. Ripens first week in September, 


38 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


SetMA.—Produced by G. Segessmann, Amazonia, Mo, 
Seedling of Elvira and probably Concord. Perfectly 
hardy, productive and healthy. Bunches large and per- 
fect, shouldered; berry medium, black, nearly round, 
adhering firmly to stem; juicy and sprightly, pleasant 
flavor; skin thick and firm. Ripens a few days after 
Moore’s Early, and makes a good claret wine. 

SupERB.—Produced by A. IF. Nice, Griswoldville, Ga., 
from seed of Eumelan, raised at Weymouth, Mass. 
Hardy and a good grower; wood short-jointed and 
«stocky ; leaf large and healthy. Bunch large, compact ; 
berry medium, black, with blue bloom; quality best, 
sweet and rich; pulp tender and juicy; skin thin but 
tough. It starts late, but ripens two weeks before Con- 
cord; keeps and ships well. Liable to overbear, and 
needs thinning. 

THOMAS (Rotundifolia).—Introduced by D. Thomas. 
Claimed to be an improvement on the old Scuppernong. 
Berries large, oblong, purplish violet ; skin thin ; trans- 
parent, tender, sweet and vinous. I simply repeat the 
description here without recommending any of that class. 

UusterR Proiiric (Labrusca).—Seedling of Catawba 
crossed with wild Aistivalis, produced by A. J. Caywood, 
Marlboro, N. Y. Bunch medium, shouldered; berry 
medium; skin thin, but tough; sweet and of fine favor. 
Ripens with Concord; keeps and carries well. Vine 
very hardy, healthy and prolific. 

VERGENNES. —Originator, William E. Green, Vergen- 
nes, Vermont. A chance seedling found in his garden. 
Ripens after Concord. Bunch of medium size, shoul- 
dered ; berry large, skin thin and tough; good quality, 
fine keeper and shipper; good for late market. Vine 
vigorous, healthy and hardy. 

WuitE Brauty.—Originated from Duchess, by Dr. - 
J. Stayman. Vine vigorous, healthy, hardy and very 
productive, Bunch large, long, compact, shouldered 


AND WINE MAKING. 39 


and handsome; berry full medium, firm but tender, 
sprightly and pure flavor. Claimed to be the most per- 
fect white grape in Kansas, ripening with Concord, and 
will hang until late frost. A good shipper. 

Wuitt JEweEL (Riparia).—Introduced by Dr. Stay- 
man. Seedling of Elvira. Very early—claimed to be 
the earliest grape in Kansas. Vine healthy and very 
productive ; bunch medium, Jong, very compact, hand- 
some. Berry medium, oblong, very juicy, sweet, spright- 
ly, and of good quality. 

Witte (Labrusca).—Produced by Dr. L. OC. Chis- 
holm, Nashville, Tenn. Seedling of Northern Musca- 
dine, crossed with Concord. Fruit larger than Concord, 
both in bunch and berry; very showy; black, with whit- 
ish bloom; skin not as thin as Concord; vinous and 
sprightly; not foxy; an excellent wine grape; ripens 
with Concord. Vigorous, healthy, and very productive. 

Wirt (Labrusca).—Originated with Mr. Witt, Colum- 
bus, Ohio. Healthy in growth and foliage; very pro- 
ductive. Bunch large and handsome; berry large, pure 
flavored and best in quality. Ripens early, but keeps 
well. Claimed to be the best of the white seedlings of 
Concord. : | 

Wooprurr Rep (Labrusca).—Originated’ with OC. H. 
Woodruff, Ann Arbor, Michigan. Chance seedling, 
and probably a cross between Concord and Catawba. 
Very hardy, strong grower, and healthy. Bunch large, 
shouldered, heavy and compact. Berry large, sweet and 
of fair quality, but somewhat foxy. Desirable for 
market. 

In the foregoing selection of varieties, I have been 
obliged to depend mainly on Eastern sources for descrip- 
tions. I have endeavored to cull the most promising 
from an almost endless list, but must leave it wholly to 
the discretion of the reader to decide what varieties, if 
any, are suited to each particular locality. This is, of 


40 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


course, only a partial list of American origin. There 
may be others equally promising, among the seven hun- 
dred varieties now before the public. I have not touched 
upon the new varieties of my friends T. V.. Munson and 
Hermann Jaeger, which may be the most promising of 
them all, as their originators will speak for them in Part 
II of this volume. 
RETROSPECTIVE. 


This chapter on choice of varieties refers, of course, 
only to American grapes, suitable for planting and cul- 
tivation east of the Rocky mountains. It may not be 
out of place here to glance backward over the last ten 
years and observe the progress made in grape culture 
during that period. ‘That immense progress. has been 
made is beyond question. Throughout the country, 
from Maine to Idaho, and from Florida to Texas, men 
of skill and energy have been engaged in the work of 
originating new varieties for the table, the market and 
the wine-press. Asa result the grape and its juices, in 
some form or other, are no longer the exclusive luxuries 
of the rich, but the common property of all. The 
Southern States are prepared to enter the market as early 
as May, and the State of New York ships its grapes until 
as late as December, and as far as Denver and other 
Colorado points. Fresh grapes are thus furnished for 
eight months in the year. Great advance has also been 
made in the quality of American grapes. What was re- 
garded as good enough ten years ago, is so no longer. 
The varieties originated by Miller, Rommell, Campbell, 
Rogers, Caywood and others are nearly all either cast 
aside or used only for further experiments, only a few 
remaining as remembrances. But the pioneer experi- 
menters labored not in vain. They made the path clear 
for those who weve to follow, and we can, without envy 
or bitterness, step aside while the succeeding generation 
follows in our footsteps, even surpassing us in the work 


AND WINE MAKING. 4i 


that we began. What we aimed to do may be accom- 
plished by them. Let their motto be, as ours was, ‘‘ Ex- 
celsior,” until this country becomes in truth, what the 
pre-Columbian Northmen called it, a true Vineland. 


CHAPTER IX. 
PLANTING THE VINE. 


The distance at which the vines may be planted, will, 
of course, vary with the different varieties. The rows 
may all be 6 feet apart, as this is the most convenient 
distance for cultivating, and gives space enough for man, 
horse and plow, or cultivator. Slow growing varieties, 
such as Delaware, Catawba, or Alvey, may be planted 6 
feet apart in the rows, but Concord, Norton’s, Herbe- 
mont, and all strong growing varieties, will need more 
room, say from 8 to 10 feet, to give the vines ample space 
to spread, and allow free circulation of air, one of the 
first conditions of success. ‘The next question is: Shall 
we plant cuttings or rooted plants? ‘The latter are by 
far the best, as cuttings, even of the easiest growing va- 
rieties, are uncertain, and we cannot expect to have so 
even a growth as from rooted plants carefully assorted. 
Choose, therefore, good, strong, one-year-old plants, the 
best you can get, either from cuttings, layers, or single 
eyes. Good plants should have plenty of strong, well- 
ripened roots, which are smooth and firm—for excres- 
cences and warts upon the roots are a sign of Phylloxera 
—and have also well-ripened, short-jointed wood. They 
should be of even size, so as to make a uniform growth, 
and not have been forced by the propagator into rank 
growth, for we cannot expect plants that have been pett1 
and pampered with artificial manures, to flourish with 


~ 


42 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


the every day food they obtain in the vineyard. But . 
do not take second or third-rate plants, if you can help 
it, for they will not make the thrifty growth of first-class 
plants. The best are the cheapest even if they cost a 
little more. Especially important is this with such va- 
rieties as Norton’s or Delaware, which do not root readily, 
and are always more difficult to transplant. Better pay 
double the price for them and get good plants, as. they 
will make healthier vines and bear sooner. 

But I also caution you against those who would sell 
you ‘‘extra large layers for immediate bearing,” and 
whose plants are ‘‘ better than any one else grows them,” 
as their advertisements will term it. It is time that this 
humbug should cease, and the public in general should 
kaow that they cannot, in reason, expect fruit from a 


-* “vine transplanted the same season, and thet those who 


pretend it.can be done without vital injury to the plart, 
are only seeking to fill their pockets at the cost of their 


customers. . They know well enough themselves, that it: 


cannot: ‘be done without fatally injuring the plant, but 


- they impose upon the credulity of their customers; sell 


them large vines at extravagant prices, which these good 
souls will buy, and perhaps obtain a few sickly bunches 
the first season, but if they do, the vines will make a 
feeble growth, not ripen their wood, and be winter-killed 
next season. Therefore, if you look around for plants do 
not go to those who advertise ‘‘layers for immediate 
bearing,” or ‘‘ better grown than any one’s else,” but_send 
to some honest, reliable nurseryman whom you can trust ; 
one who is not afraid to let you see how he grows them, 
and let him send you a sample of his plants. Choose 
good, strong, healthy plants, one year old, plant. care- 
fully, and be content to wait two years for results; but 
then, if you have cultivated the vines carefully, you will 
get acrop of grapes that is worth gathering. You can 
not, in nature and reason, expect it sooner. 


AND WINE MAKING. 43 


If the ground has been prepared in the fall, so much 
the better, and if it has been thrown into ridges, and is 
dry enough, it may be planted in the fall. The advantages 
of fall planting may be summed up as follows: The 


ita rio 


Fig. 5.—YOUNG VINE READY TO PLANT, 


ground is generally in better condition than in spring 
and will work better, as we usually have better weather, 
and more time to spare; the ground can settle among 
the roots, which will be healed over and callused by 
spring, when the plant is ready to start with full vigor. 

Mark your ground, laying it off with a line, and puta 
small stake where each plant is to be, A very conyenl- 


44 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ent plan is to tie a string, or piece of bark, into your line 
at the proper distance for each plant, then you have an 
even measure every time. Dig a hole, 8 or 10 inches 
deep, as shown in figure 6, in a slanting direction, rais- 
ing a small mound of well pulverized earth in the center; 
| then, having pruned your 
plant, as in figure 5, with 
its tops and roots shorten- 
ed-in, as shown by the dot- 
ted lines, lay it in, resting 
the lower end on _ the 
mound of earth; spread 
out its roots evenly to all 
sides, and then fill in with 
well pulverized earth, leav- 
ing the upper bud above 
the ground. When planted in fall, raise a small mound 
_ around each vine, so as to drain off the water, and throw 
a handful of mulch on top of the vines, to protect them. 
All the work should be done when the ground is in good 
condition, and dry and mellow enough to be worked in 
well among the roots. 


CHAPTER X, 
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FIRST SUMMER. 


The first summer after planting, nothing is necessary 
but to keep the ground loose and mellow and free from 
weeds, stirring it freely with hoe, rake, and plow, when- 
ever necessary, but never when the ground is’ wet. 
Should the vines grow strong, they may be tied to the 
small stakes, to elevate them somewhat above the ground. 
Allow but one shoot to grow, rubbing off all others as 


AND WINE MAKING. 45 


they appear, but allow all the laterals to grow on this 
shoot, as it will make it short-jointed and stocky. 

In the fall, prune the young vine back to three buds, if 
it has grown well ; to one or two, if it is small. A fair 
growth for the first season, is from 3 to 4 feet. During 
the winter, trellises should be provided, as this is the 
most convenient and the cheapest method of training ; 
and we expect our vines to grow from 10 to 15 feet the 
coming summer. Procure good posts, 7 feet long, and 
3 to 4 inches in diameter, of Red Cedar where it can be 
had, as this is the most durable ; if that is not at hand, 
use Osage Orange, Mulberry, Black Locust, or Post Oak. 
Char the lower ends of the posts slightly, or dip them in 
coal tar, as far as they go into the ground, to make them 
more durable. Make holes with a post auger, placing 
the first post in each row about 4 feet outside of the 
last vine, and parallel with the row; set the second post 
midway between the second and third vines, and so on, 
so that two vines always occupy the space between two 
posts. If preferred, every other post can be omitted this 
summer, and the intermediate ones may be set the next 
fall, as the trellis will be strong enough to bear the young 
growth, and that is all it will have to do the next 
summer. Make the holes 2 feet deep and set the posts 
firmly, pounding down the ground around them witha 
small wooden pestle or crowbar. Brace the end post 
firmly, by driving in a short stake 4 feet from the last 
post, fastening a wire to the top of the post and draw- 
ing it down and around the stake, as shown in figure 17. 
Procure No. 12 wire; bore holes with a half-inch auger 
through the end post (which should always be rather 
heavier and square), one near the top of the post, and 
one or two others, as you wish to make the trellis of two 
or three wires. If the trellis is to be of only two wires, 
make the next hole 2 feet below the upper one; if three 
wires are to be used, 20 inches below. The three-wire 


46 AMERICAN GRAPR GROWING 


trellis is somewhat more convenient in tying up the 
young vines and lower canes, but is also costlier, while 
the two-wire trellis is more economical, and when the 
vines are once established in their proper shape, just 
as good, while it is more convenient for cultivation be- 
low, and allows freer circulation of air below the bearing 
canes. fasten your vine to the post at one end, drawing 
it along the line, and pass it through the hole in the end 
post. Have pieces of 1 inch boards, 1*/, inch broad, and 
a foot long, with a hole bored through the center. Draw 
your wire also through this, and then by turning the 
board, you can, in wrapping the wire around it, tighten 
that at your pleasure, and loosen it also, which should 
always be done in the fall, as the cold contracts the wire, 
and the strain would be too great. Now you can fasten 
the wire to the intermediate posts by small staples, which 
are manufactured for this purpose, and can be had in any 
hardware store. If your vineyard slopes to the south, 
and the rows run parallel with the hillside, fasten on the 
south side ; if to the east, fasten to the east. Laths will, 
of course, do instead of wires, but the posts must then be 
set much closer ; laths always need repairing ; the wires 
are much more convenient to tie to, and in the end 
much cheaper. Many train to stakes. Where timber is 
plenty, stakes may be cheaper, yet it is much more 
labor to tie to them, and the vines are always in disorder, 
while they will cling to the wires with their tendrils, thus 
doing most of the tying themselves, and the bearing canes ~ 
can be distributed much more evenly, producing more 
and better ripened fruit. I am satisfied that the addi- 
tional cost of trellis will be more than paid by the larger 
and better crop the first bearing season. Fill all va- 
cancies, if any occur, with extra strong vines in the fall, 


AND WINE MAKING. 47 


CHAPTER XI. 
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE SECOND SUMMER. 


We find the young vine at the commencement of the 
second summer pruned to three buds. From these we 
may expect two or three strong shoots to ripen into bear- 
ing canes for the next year. ‘The first work will be to 
cultivate the whole ground. ‘This can be done by a com- 
mon turning plow, first throwing away a furrow at each 
side of the row, as in the first cultivation of corn, taking 
care not to go too deep, so as to injure the vine or its 
roots. ‘Then hoe the space under and around the vines, 
either with the two-pronged German hoe, or the Hexa- 
mer hoe, stirring and inverting the soil to the depth of 
about 3 inches. Then take the plow again and throw 
the soil back to the vines, using care, however, not 
to cover them ; stir the whole to a uniform depth, and 
leaving a shallow furrow in the middle. The ground 
should be dry enough to work well, and not clog ; rather 
wait a few days than to stir the soil in wet weather. Of 
the three shoots which may grow, leave two to grow un- 
checked ; the-weakest is to be pinched as soon as about 
five or six leaves are developed, taking off the top of the 
young shoot with your thumb and finger. The other 
two, if Catawba or Delaware, you can let grow unchecked, 
but all the strong growing kinds, as Concord, Martha, 
Goethe, etc., and all the estivalis and cordifolia class, 
should also be pinched when the shoots have attained a 
length of 3 feet, or just above the second wire from 
above ; this will force the laterals into a stronger growth, 
so that each will attain the size of a medium cane. On 
these we intend to have our fruit the coming season, as 
the shoots from buds on these laterals will produce more 
and finer fruit than those on the main canes, if left un- 


48 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


checked ; and they can also be kept under control much 
better. Figure 7 will show the result of training the 
second summer, with the method of bracing the trellis. 


N AN 
RYN 
\ 


Figure 8 gives the vine, pruned and tied, at the end 
of the second season. Figure 9 represents the manner 
of training and tying the Catawba and Delaware, or other 
slow growing kinds. 

The above method of training is a combination of the 
single-cane and fan-training system, which I tried first 
on the Concord from sheer necessity, when the results 
pleased me so much, that I have since adopted it with all 


Fig. 8.—THE VINE PRUNED AND eke 
the strong growing varieties. ‘The circumstances which 
led me to the trial of this method, were as follows: In- 
the summer of 1862, when my young Concord vines were 


AND WINE MAKING, 49 


making their second season’s growth, we had, in the be- 
ginning. of June, the most destructive hailstorm I have 
ever seen here. ‘The vines were not only stripped of all 
their leaves, but the young succulent shoots were also cut 
down to about 3 feet from the ground. The vines, being 
young and vigorous, pushed out strong laterals, each of 
them about the size of a fair, medium cane. In the fall, 
when I came to prune them, the main cane was not long 
enough, and I shortened in the laterals to from four to 
six buds each. On these I had as fine a crop of grapes as 
I ever saw, with large, well developed bunches and berries, 


=I" 


Fig. 9.—TRAINING 


SLOW GROWING VARIETIES, 


and a great many of them, as each bud had produced its 
fruit-bearing shoot. Since that time I have followed this 
method altogether and have obtained the most satisfac- 
tory results. 


The ground should be kept loose and mellow during 
the summer, cultivating as often as may become necessary 
during dry weather, and the vines are to be tied neatly 
to the trellis with bark or straw. 

There are many other methods of training, as the old 
bow and stake training, so much in vogue formerly. But 
it crowds the whole mass of fruit and leaves so closely, that 
mildew and rot will follow as a natural consequence ; it 
should have been given up long ago. But we have a class 
of grape growers who neyer learn or forget anything. 


50 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


These will hardly prosper. The grape-grower, of all 
others, should be a close observer of uature, a thinking 
and reasoning being. He ought to experiment and try new 
methods all the time, and should he find a better, be will- 
ing to throw aside his old method, and adopt one more 
suited to the wants of his vines. Only in this manner 
can he expect to attain success. 

There is also the arm system, of which we hear so 
much, and which certainly looks very pretty on paper. 
But paper is patient, and the advantages of the sys- 
tem cannot be denied, if every shoot and spur could be 
made to grow just as in drawings, with three fine bunches 
to each shoot. Upon applying it, however, we find 
that vines are stubborn, some shoots will outgrow others, 
and before we hardly know how, the whole beautiful 
system is out of order. It may do to follow with a 
few vines in gardens, or on arbors, but I do not think 
that it will ever be successfully adopted for vineyard cul- 
ture, as it involves too much labor in tying, pruning, ete. 
I think the method already described will more fully 
meet the wants of the vine grower than any I have yet 
seen ; it is so simple that an intelligent person can soon 
become familiar with it, and gives us new, healthy bear- 
ing-wood every season. 

Pruning may be done in the fall, as soon as the leaves 
have dropped, and continued, on mild days, during 
the winter months, 


AND WINE MAKING. 51 


CHAPTER XIL 


TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE THIRD SUMMER, 


At the beginning of the third season we find our vine 
pruned to three spurs, of two buds each, and six short 
lateral arms of four to six buds each. ‘These are tied 
firmly to the trellis, as shown in figure 8, for which pur- 
pose small twigs of the Golden Willow, of which every 
grape-grower should plant a supply, are the most con- 
venient. In their absence, twigs of some of the wild 
willows, or good strong twine, may be substituted, though 
not near so convenient. The ground should be plowed 
and hoed as before, taking care, however, not to plow 
so deeply as to cut or tear the roots of the vines. 

The vines. being plowed and hoed, and, as we hope, 
pushing young shoots vigorously, we come to one of the 
most important and delicate operations to be performed 
on the vine, one of as great, or even greater, importance 
than pruning. ‘This is summer-pruning, or pinching, 
7. 2., thumb and finger pruning. Fall pruning, or cutting 
back, is but the first step in the discipline to which the 
vine is to be subjected ; summer pruning is the second ; 
and one is useless and cannot be systematically followed 
without the other. Look at the vine well before you 
commence, and begin near the ground. 

The time to commence is when the young shoots 
are 6 to 8 inches long, and as soon as you can see all the 
young bunches or buds, the embryo fruit. We com- 
mence on the lower spur, having two shoots; rubbing 
off, at the same time, all suckers or wild shoots that may 
have started from the crown of the vine below. From 
the two buds two shoots have started. One of them 
may serve as a bearing cane or reserve next summer, we, 
therefore, leave it unchecked for the present. The other, 


52 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


which is intended for a spur again next fall, we pinch 
with thumb and finger, just beyond the last bunch or 
button, taking out the leader between the last bunch and 
the next leaf, as shown in figure 10, the cross line indicat- 
ing where the leader is to be pinched. We now rub off 
all the shoots between the lower spur and the next lateral 
cane, should any appear, as they generally produce im- 
perfect fruit and are quite too near the ground. Next 
take the spur on the cane, treating it precisely like the 
lower one, leaving the strongest shoot unchecked for a 
bearing cane next year, and pinching the other. Now go 
over all the shoots on the lateral 
canes, shortening each one to just 
above the last promising looking 
bunch. If a bud has started 
two, or even three shoots, rub off 
the weaker, leaving but one and 
the strongest, and if any bud has 
not started vigorously, rub it off 
. altogether. Go over the other 
cane in the same manner, and if 
you think there are still too many 
bunches, take away the smallest. 
A vine in its third season, how- 
ever strong it may be, should not 
be allowed to bear over 15 lbs. of grapes, and if allowed 
thirty to forty bunches it will have that quantity, pro- 
vided it is not a variety which bears but small bunches. 
Now is the time to thin the fruit, before it has abstracted 
any strength from the vine. If any shoots are not suf- 
ficiently developed to show their condition, we pass them 
by, and go over. the vine again after a few days. 

This early pinching of the young shoots has the ten- 
dency to throw all the vigor into the development of the 
young bunches and the leaves remaining on the shoot, . 
which now develop with astenishing rapidity. It is a 


Fig. 10.—PINCHING. 


AND WINE MAKING, 53 


gentle checking, and leading the sap into other channels, 
not the violent process which is often followed long after 
_the bloom, when the shoots have so hardened that the 
knife must be used, and by which the plant is robbed 
of a large part of its leaves, to the injury of both fruit 
and vine. Let any one who wishes to satisfy himself, 
summer-prune a vine according to this method, and leave 
the next vine until after the bloom ; he will soon be con- 
vinced which is best. Since I first practised this method, 
now about twenty years, it has added at least one-third 
to the quantity and quality of my crop, and it is now fol- 
lowed by most of the intelligent growers of my State. 
It also gives an early opportunity to destroy the small 
worms, a species of leaf-folder, which are very trouble- 
some about this time, eating the young bunches and 
leaves, and which generally 
make their web among the 
tender leaves at the end of the 
shoot. The bearing shoots all 
being pinched back, we can 
leave the vines alone until after 
the bloom, only tying up the 
young canes from the spurs, 
should this become necessary. 
Do not tie them over and 
among the bearing canes, but 
lead them to the empty spaces 
in the middle, as our ob- 
ject must be to give the fruit Fig. 11.—prvcnine THE 

all the air and light we can. prenene. 

When they have bloomed, the laterals will have start- 
ed from the axils of the leaves on the bearing shoots. 
Go over again, and pinch these back to one leaf, as shown 
in figure 11, the cross lines showing where the laterals are 
to be pinched. This will have the tendency to develop 
the remaining leaf very rapidly, enabling it to serve as a 


54 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


conductor and elaborator of sap to the young bunch op. 
posite, and shading that when it becomes fully devel- 
oped. The canes from the spurs, which we left un-. 
checked at first pinching, and which we design to bear 
fruit the next season, may now also be stopped or pinched 
when they are about 3 feet long, to start their laterals 
into stronger growth. Pinch off all the tendrils unless 
where they serve as supports to the young growth. ‘This 
is a very busy time for the vine dresser, and upon his 
close attention and diligence now, depends, in a great 
measure, the value of his crop. <A vast deal of labor can 
be saved by doing everything at its proper time. 

This is about all that.is necessary for this summer, ex- 
cept tying the young growth along the top wires, and 
an occasional tying of a fruit-bearing branch, if it should 
become too heavy. ‘The majority of the branches will, 
however, be able to bear their fruit without tying, and 
the young growth which may yet be made from the 
laterals may be left unchecked, as it will serve to shade 
the fruit when ripening. ‘This short and early pinching 
is also a partial preventive of mildew and rot, as it ad- 
mits light and air to all parts of the vine. But I cannot 
caution too strongly against late cutting back, one of the 
first causes of disease, and ruinous to the vine, as the de- 
foliation of the vine in August disturbs and violates all 
its functions, and enfeebles i 

The reader will perceive that fall pruning, or shorten- 
ing-in the ripe wood of the vine, and summer-pruning, 
shortening-in and thinning the young growth, have one 
and the same object in view, namely, to keep the vine with- 
in proper bounds, and to concentrate all its energies for a 
two-fold object, the production and ripening of the most 
perfect fruit, and the production of strong and healthy 
wood for next season’scrop. Both operations are only dif- 
ferent parts of the same system, of which summer-pruning 
is the preparatory, and fall-pruning the finishing part. _ 


AND WINE MAKING. 55 


If we vhink that a vine sets more fruit than it is able 
to bear and ripen perfectly, we have it in our power to 
thin it, by taking away all imperfect bunches and feeble 
shoots. Weshould allow no more canes to grow for next 
season’s bearing than we need, if we allow three canes to 
grow where only two are needed, we waste the energies 
of the vine, which should all be concentrated upon ripen- 
ing its fruit in the most perfect manner, and producing 
enough wood for next season’s bearing, and of the best 
and most vigorous kind, but no more. If we prune the 
vine too long, we overtax its energies, making it bear 
more fruit than it can well mature, and the result will be 
poor, badly-ripened fruit, and imperfect wood. If we | 
prune the vine too short, we will have a rank, excessive 
growth of wood and leaves, and encourage rot and mil- 
dew. Only practice and experience will teach the true 
medium, and the observing and thinking vine-dresser 
will soon learn where the true medium is, better than 
he can be taught by volumes of advice. Different va- 
rieties will, of course, require different treatment, and 
it would be folly to prune them all alike. A compact, 
slow grower, like the Delaware, will require different 
treatment from a rank grower like Concord, and much 
shorter pruning. ‘The Delaware and Catawba fruit 
well upon single canes, while the Concord, Martha, and 
others, fruit better on spurs upon laterals, while most of 
the estivalis and cordifolia classes, especially the Norton’s, 
Cynthiana, and Taylor, will fruit better if pruned to 
spurs of two or three buds, on the old arms, than on 
young canes. With these latter, the old arms should, 
therefore, be retained as long as they are sound and 
Vigorous, pruning all the healthy, good sized shoots to two 
or three buds ; always, however, growing a young cane 
to fall back upon, should the old one become diseased. 
It is because so few of our common laborers will take the 
pains to study the habits and nature of their vines, and 


56 | AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


do a little thinking for themselves, that we. find among 
them but very few good vine dressers. 

It is hardly necessary to state that the ground should 
be kept mellow and clean through the summer, and 
especially during the ripening of the fruit, but never 
touch it in wet weather. 

At the end of this season, we find our vines, if Concords 
or similar varieties, with the old fruit-bearing canes, and 
a spur on each side, from each of which we have a cane, 
as the smaller one was stopped, like all other fruit-bear- 
ing branches, and which we now prune to a spur of two 
buds. The other, the young cane, which was stopped at 
about 3 feet, on which the laterals were left to grow un- 
checked, we prune as last season, each lateral being cut 
back to four to six buds, and the old canes which had borne 
fruit, are cut away altogether. With Norton’s, Cynthi- 
ana, ‘l'aylor, etc., the old arms are left, and the well de- 
veloped shoots are cut back to two buds each, as before 
mentioned, while the small, weak ones are cut away 
altogether. This leaves us with an arm on each side, to 
be tied the next spring, as shown in figure 18, and 
ends our operations for the season. Of the gathering of 
the fruit, as well for market as for wine, I shall speak in 
another place. 


CHAPTER XIII. 
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FOURTH SUMMER. 


We now consider the vine as established, able to bear a 
full crop. ‘The operations to be performed are precisely 
the same as in its third year, only modifying the prun- 
ing, fruiting, ete., according to the strength of the vine, 
pruning shorter if the vine shows a decrease in vigor, 
longer, 1f it grows too rank, 


AND WINE MAKING. 57 


Should the vines show a decrease in vigor, so as to in- 
dicate the need of stimulants, they may be manured with 
ashes, bone dust, compost, or still better, with surface 
soil from the woods or prairies. This will serve to re- 
plenish the soil which may have been washed off, and is 
much more beneficial than stable manure. When the 
latter is employed, a small trench may be dug in the 
middle of the row just above the vine, the manure laid 
in, and covered with soil. But an abundance of fresn 
soil, drawn around the vine, is the best of all manures. 

Should your vineyard have vacancies, they had best ve 
filled with layers from neighboring vines, made as follows: 
Dig a trench from the vine from which the layer is to be 
made, to the empty place, about 8 or 10 inches deep ; 
bend into this trench one of the canes of the vine which 
has been left to grow unchecked for the purpose, and 
pruned to the proper length. Let the end of this layer- 
cane come out at the surface, where the new vine is want- 
ed, and fill up the trench with well pulverized earth. It 
will take root at every joint, and grow rapidly, but as it 
draws a great deal of nourishment trom the parent vine, 
that must be pruned much shorter. When the layer is 
well established, it is cut from the parent vine, either the 
second or third season. Such layers will fill up much 
better than if the vacancies are supplied by planting 
young vines, as the latter do not grow very vigorous- 
ly, if set among the others, after the second season. 

Pruning is best done in fall, but can be done any time 
during mild weather in winter, and here even as late as 
the middle of March. Fall pruning will prevent flow of 
sap, and the cuttings, if to be used for future plantations, 
or sold, are also better if made in the fall, and buried in 
the ground over winter, with their upper ends downwards. 
All the sound, well-ripened wood of last season’s growth 
may be made into cuttings, and if they can be sold, 
will largely add to the product of the vineyard, 


58 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER XIV. 
TRAINING THE VINE ON ARBORS AND WALLS. 


This has a different purpose from culture in vineyards, 
and, therefore, the vines require different treatment. 
Vineyard culture has for its object the most perfect 
fruit, and bringing the vine, with all its parts, within 
easy reach of the cultivator. Arbor culture has for its 
object the covering of a large space with foliage, for or- 
nament and shade ; fruit being but a secondary considera- 
tion, though a large quantity of fruit of fair quality can 
also be produced, if the vines are judiciously treated. 

The first aim should be to grow very strong plants, so 
as to cover a large space. Prepare the border by digging a 
trench 2 feet deep and 4 feet wide, and fill with rich soil, 
rotten leaves, bones, ashes, etc. Set your plants in this, 
in the manner already shown in vineyard planting. 
Leave but one shoot to grow on them during the first 
summer, which ought to become very strong. Cut this 
cane back to three buds the next fall. Each of these 
buds will produce a strong shoot the next spring, which 
should be tied to the arbor and allowed to grow un- 
checked. In the following fall, cut each of these three 
canes back to three buds, as our first aim must be to get 
a good basis for our vines. These will give nine canes 
the next summer, and as the vine is now strong enough, 
we can begin to demand a crop from it. We have now 
three different sections or branches to the vine, each one 
of which bears three canes. Cut one of these three canes 
back to two eyes, and prune the other two canes to from 
gix to ten buds each, according to the strength of the 
vine. Treat each of the three sections in the same man- 
ner, Next spring tie these neatly to the trellis, divid- 


AND WINE MAKING. 59 


ing them equally, and when the young shoots appear, 
thin out the weakest, leaving the others to grow un- 
checked. Next fall cut back the weakest of the canes 
to two buds each, the stronger ones to three or four buds, 
the spurs at bottom to come in as a reserve, should any of 
the main arms become diseased. 

Others prefer the Thomery or horizontal arm training, 
but I think it much more complicated and difficult. 
Those who wish to inform themselves about it, I refer to 
the books of Fuller and Mead, which are very explicit on 
the subject. 


CHAPTER XV. 


OTHER METHODS OF TRAINING. 


These are almost without number; one of the most 
common is to place three stakes around the vine, about a 
foot from it, and to wind the canes or arms around them 
spirally, until they reach the top. They are then 
‘‘spurred in” every season, and no young canes grown, 
except to replace a decaying arm. This mode is much 
more inconvenient than a trellis, and it crowds fruit 
and foliage too much, inducing mildew. Another, much 
in vogue in Kurope, and also in California, is the so- 
called bush or stool method of training. The vine is 
made to form its crown, 7. ¢., the part from which the 
branches start, from 12 to 18 inches above the ground 
and all the young shoots are allowed to grow, but sum- 
mer pruned or checked above the last bunch of grapes. 
The next spring or fall all of the young shoots are 
““spurred-in ” to two buds ; this system of spurring-in is 
_ kept up, and the vine will at last present the appearance 
of a bush or miniature tree, producing all its fruit within 


60 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


a foot from the crown, and without further support than 
its own stem. Very old vines, sometimes, have from a 
dozen to twenty spurs, and present, with their fruit 
hanging all around their trunks, a pleasing, but odd 
aspect. This method could not be applied here with any 
chance of success to any other than very slow and stocky 
growers. The Delaware, the Alvey, and also the Kumelan, 
would be the most suitable, as they are very close-jointed, 
stocky, and hardy. It would be useless to try it with 
strong growers. 

Another method of dwarfing the vine is practised to 
form a pretty border along walks in gardens or along ter- 
races, and is as follows: Plant the vines about 8 feet 
apart, treat them the first season as in common vineyard 
culture, but cut back to two buds. Provide posts 3 to 
3'/, feet long, and pointed at one end ; drive these into the 
ground for 18 inches, and nail a lath on the top. This 
is the trellis, and should be about 18 inches above the 
ground, or 2 feet, if you prefer. Allow both of the 
shoots from the vine to grow unchecked, and when they 
have reached the trellis, tie one to the right, the other to 
the left, allowing them to grow at will along the lath. 
The next fall, cut back to the proper length to meet the 
other vine, and in spring, tie firmly to the lath. When 
the young shoots appear, all are rubbed off below the trel- 
lis, but all those above the trellis are pinched, as in vine- 
yard culture, beyond the last bunch of grapes. The 
trellis, with its garland of fruit, will look very pretty. 
In the fall, all the shoots are ‘‘ spurred-in” to one or 
two buds, one being allowed to grow from each spur, to 
produce fruit the next summer; the same treatment is 
repeated every year. 

During a trip among the vineyards of Western New 
York, on the shores of Lake Erie and Keuka, or Crooked 
Lake, I observed a method of training which seems to pro- 
duce good results there, but which I think would not 


AND WINE MAKING. 61 


prove successful here, as our hot sun would scald the 
leaves, and the grapes being so near the ground would 
be more liable to rot. I can but think that even in 
these localities the method described by me, would be 
better, and save a good deal of labor. 

Their method is as follows: They grow two canes on 
each vine, which are tied horizontally to the lower wire, 
one to the left, the other to the right, and also a spur on 
each arm to produce a new cane for next year. The 
shoots, which grow from the eyes on the two horizontal 
canes, are left to grow unchecked, and when they have 
become long enough to reach the second wire, are tied to 
it, and from there to the upper wire, thus bearing the fruit 
all between the lower and second wires. ‘The next fall the 
cane, which has borne the fruit the last summer, is cut off 
close to the spur, and the new cane grown from it takes 
the place of it the next summer. It is a very simple way 
of renewal training, but were we to do it here, the leaves 
which are on the main shoots would drop off, leaving the 
fruit exposed : while with the system of summer-pruning 
I follow, the young and vigorous leaves on the pinched 
laterals shade the fruit perfectly; and remain fresh and 
green. Besides, it takes an immense amount of tying and 
tying material, and we can pinch four shoots in a shorter 
time than we can tie one. As our pinched shoots be- 
come very stocky, they will bear the weight of all the 
fruit without tying, and the slanting direction in which 
we tie will distribute the fruit more evenly. I believe, 
therefore, that our New York growers would do well to 
give this method a trial, and compare results. 

I also saw the horizontal arm training in great perfec- 
tion at Mr. H. BE. Hooker’s, at Rochester, and confess that 
his arms of the Brighton, with their handsome clusters, 
looked very handsome. He thinks he could carry an 
arm to the distance of 50 feet in the same way. His 
treatment consists simply in “spurring-in” the young 


* 


62 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


shoots on his canes along the first wire to one to two 
eyes, growing his fruit on these, and leaving the old arm, 
pruning back the young shoots to spurs every year, leay- 
ing the bearing shoots unchecked, and tying them to the 
wires above. While it succeeds there, I have my doubts 
as to its applicability with us, for the reasons already 
given, nor do I believe that he can grow any better fruit 
even there, than could be obtained by our simpler method. 

Prof. L. H. Bailey has written a little book on Amer- 
ican Grape Training, a copy of which he has kindly 
placed at my disposal, with permission to make such ex- 
tracts as may be found useful for this volume. It dis- 
cusses almost every method of training practiced in this 
country except those set forth in the preceding chapters, 
which are, however, still followed, to some extent, 
everywhere. 

THE KNIFFEN SYSTEM,—s0 named after its originator, 
William Kniffen,—or some of its modifications, is largely 
followed in many parts of the State of New York, at 
least for strong growing varieties, as Concord, Worden 
and Niagara. ‘The fundamental idea underlying the 
Kniffen system, in all its modifications, seems to me to 
be the obtaining of grapes with the smallest amount of 
labor. The method known as the four-cane Kniffen 
seems to have been the original of the system. Two 
wires are used, and as soon as the vine becomes strong 
enough a spur and a cane are grown from the lower trel- 
lis; that is to say, four canes are grown from two spurs, 
one on each side of the vine, of which one is cut back to 
a spur when pruning, the other to a cane, which is car- 
ried along the lower wire and tied. If the vine is 
strong enough to be carried to the upper wire, it is 
pruned in the same manner there, so that each of the 
wires carries a separate load of wood and fruit. Both 
tiers thus carry two spurs for renewal, two canes for 
bearing, and the shoots from the bearing canes are 


AND WINE MAKING. 63 


allowed to droop down, without further pruning and 
tying. Each of the spurs is supposed to produce two 
canes, of which one is cut back to a spur, the other to a 
bearing cane, and the cane which has produced the fruit 
is cut off. A very simple form of renewal training, and 
if it produces as good fruit as some more complicated 
methods, it is well worth following. Modifications of it 
are as follows: 

THE Low, oR ONE-ARMED KNIFFEN.—In this the 
trellis is only three or four feet high, with a single wire. 
A spur and a bearing cane are left on each side, and the 
whole mass of bearing cane, fruit and foliage, is carried 
by it. The advantages urged for this are (1), the pro- 
tection of grapes from wind; (2) larger size of the fruit, 
in consequence of the small amount of bearing wood ; 
(3) the ease of laying down the vine; (4) the readiness 
with which the top may be renewed from the root; 
(5) cheapness of the trellis. 

THE HieH, oR UMBRELLA KNIFFEN.—In this method 
the vine is carried, as soon as its strength permits, to 
the upper wire, and the young cane cut back even with 
it. The top is then formed from the upper four buds, 
or rather, from their shoots, which appear during the 
summer, of which two are led along each side of the 
wire. In pruning them the next winter, one of them 
on each side is cut back to a spur, the other to a cane of 
a length corresponding to the strength of the vine, 
which cane is bent from the upper wire to the lower, 
forming a sweeping, or umbrella top. The renewal is 
the same as with the other forms. 

Stx anD Eraut Cane Knrirren.—In these, which 
require three, or even four wires, there is little if any 
apparent difference from common fan training, as it dis- 
tributes the growth of the vine over the whole trellis. 

OVERHEAD KNIFFEN TRAINING.—In this method 
the vine is carried to the top of the trellis as soon as it 


64 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


is strong enough. The trellis is made six feet high, 
with strong posts, to which crosspieces are attached. 
One wire is stretched from post to post, and one on each 
side, the cross-bars being three feet long. These three 
wires run parallel with each other, the bearing canes 
are tied from the middle to the sides, and the young 
canes along the middle of the trellis. 

; There are several other modifications of this system, 
such as cross wire training, etc. 

THe Munson SystemM.—My friend Munson of Deni- 
son, Texas, has invented another method, somewhat on 
the same principle, which he finds very satisfactory. 
He sets two posts in the same place, but with their tops 
diverging from two to three feet.. One wire is stretched 
from the top of each post to the next, and a cross wire 
a foot lower bears a third wire, to which the vines are 
fastened. ‘The canes are led over and fastened to the 
middle wire, while the young growth from the spurs is 
carried over on the side wires. ‘Thus the whole forms a 
V-shaped mass of foliage, the fruit hanging below. He 
claims for this system the following advantages : 

1. The natural habit of the vine is maintained, which 
is a canopy to shade the roots and body of the vine and 
fruit, without smothering. 

2. New wood, formed by asap which has never passed 
through bearing wood, is secured for the next crop. 

3. Simplicity and convenience of trellis, allowing 
passage in any direction, circulation of air without dan- 
ger of breaking tender shoots, ease of pruning, spraying, 
cultivation and harvesting. 

4, Perfect control of crop in pruning to suit the 
capacity of the vine. 

5. Long canes for bearing, which agrees with the 
nature of American vines better than do short spurs. 

6. Hase of laying down in winter. The vine, being 
pruned and not tied, being away fram the posts. can be 


AND WINE MAKING. 65 


bent down to one side, earth thrown upon it, and in 
spring can be easily raised and tied up. 

?. Cheapness of construction ; ease of removing trellis 
material, and using it again. 

8. Durability of both trellis and vineyard. 

The following explanation is by Professor Munson: 
“The trellis stands six feet high. The shoots stand up 
at first, but soon droop over, and are supported by the 
side wires. After the vines have flowered the bearing 
laterals have their ends pinched off, and this is all the 
summer pruning the vine gets, except to rub off all eyes 
that start on the body below the head, or crotch. Two 
to four shoots, according to strength of vine, are started 
from the spurs at the fork, or crotch, and trained over 
the center wire for renewal canes. When pruning time 
arrives, the entire beariny cane of the present year, with 
all its laterals, is cut away at a point from where the 
young renewal shoots have started, and these shoots are 
shortened back, according to strength of vine; some, 
such as Herbemont, being able at four years to fill four 
shoots six or eight feet long with fine fruit, while Dela- 
ware could not carry over three or four feet each way, 
of one shoot only. The different varieties are set at 
various distances apart, according as they are strong or 
weak growers. ‘Thus the trellis and system of pruning 
are reduced to the simplest form. <A few cuts to each 
vine cover all the pruning, and a few ties complete the 
task, A novice can soon learn to do the work well. 
The trunk, or main stem, is secured to the middle wire, 
along which all bearing canes are tied after pruning, 
and from which the young laterals which produce the 
crop are tospring. These laterals strike the outer wires, 
soon clinging to them with their tendrils, and are safe 
from destruction, while the fruit is thrown in the best 
possible position for spraying and gathering, and is still 
shaded with the canopy of leaves. I have now used this 

5 


66 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


trellis five years upon ten acres of mixed vines, and I am 
more pleased with it every year.” 

I give all these methods for what they are claimed to 
be worth, and for the consideration and trial of my read- 
ers. Each of them may be adapted to certain varieties 
and localities, and are worthy of a trial, as well as are 
Mr. Cashin’s methods of spiral and zigzag training. 

On one point, however, I take issue with Professor 
Bailey, and this is summer pruning, which he seems 
to think of very little consequence. I think it very 
important, especially in growing grapes for wine. I 
have always found, where summer pruning was neg- 
lected or done late, that the crop ripened very irreg- 
ularly, the first bunch on the shoot ripening first, 
the second somewhat after it, and the third or fourth 
much later. 

In growing grapes for market, several pickings may 
be admissible, or even profitable, but to use them for 
wine we want a uniformly ripened product, and this 
we can obtain only by very early summer pruning, as 
fully described in a former chapter. By late summer 
pruning we accomplish just the reverse, — unevenly 
ripened fruit, and unevenly ripened wood. Better not 
summer prune at all, and follow the lazy man’s method 
of allowing the vine to take care of itself after pruning 
and tying, than to denude it of half its foliage and 
wood by the barbarous use of the sickle or knife late in 
the season. 

Summer pruning must be a gentle checking early in 
the season, to lead the abundant sap which flows 
then, into other channels, developing laterals and 
leaves to shade the young fruit, not lopping off the 
tops at the most critical period, when all the foliage 
is needed to perfect the fruit. Summer pruning early 
in the season is beneficial ; late in the season ita ruins the 
crop and the vine. 


AND WINE MAKING. . 67: 


That all these systems of training are only applicable 
to American vines, and the States east of the Rocky 
mountains, is self-evident. The pruning and training 
of the Vinifera will be treated on in Part IV of this 
volume. 


OHAPTER XVL 
DISEASES OF THE VINE. 


Hungous diseases of grapes and vines have become 
very prevalent and destructive throughout the United 
States, and are formidable indeed if left unchecked. 
Fortunately, however, remedies have been discovered 
which, when faithfully and skillfully applied, prove 
effective as preventives. The grape growers of the 
country are greatly indebted to the United States De- 
partment of Agriculture for assistance and advice in 
this direction. Its first secretary, Hon. Norman J. 
Colman, was the first to introduce and recommend the 
Bordeaux mixture, which had been tried in France by 
Millardet, Foéx and others. Under his successors, Sec- 
retaries Rusk and Morton, the work of study and exper- 
iments has been vigorously and intelligently prosecuted, 
to the great advantage of all interested in the culture of 
grapes and fruits of all kinds. The Bordeaux mixture 
in greatly modified forms, and other fungicides, are now 
so well established and understood that no one need fear 
fungous diseases who has energy enough to apply the 
remedies. ‘The following are, in brief, the principal dis- 
eases of grapes and vines. 

Brack Ror (Physalospora—Lestadia Bidwellii— 
Sacc. Viala and Rav.).—This is, perhaps, the most 


68 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


widely spread and destructive disease of grapes east of 
the Rocky mountains, and for a time it threatened to 
utterly destroy grape culture in some of the States. It 
commonly appears in warm, moist weather, as a brown 
spot, like the sting of an insect, on the berry when one- 
half to two-thirds grown. It is, however, preceded by 
brown spots on the leaves, which give the first warning 
of its approach. These brown spots on the fruit in- 
crease until they cover its surface, and spread rapidly 
over all the grapes of the bunch, which become dry and 
hard. As it affects all the leaves, and even the young 
shoots of the vine, the wood naturally becomes un- 
healthy. It fails to ripen well and is consequently more 
liable to injury from frost the ensuing winter, and to 
attacks of disease the next summer, especially if the 
fallen leaves and diseased grapes are left in the vineyard. 
The spores live through the winter, and only await the 
advent of warm weather to spring into life and multiply 
indefinitely. It is important, therefore, that all this 
refuse be destroyed by fire, and an early spraying applied 
to kill any spores that may remain. It should be borne 
in mind that all fungicides are more effective as pre- 
ventives. So destructive had black rot and downy mil- 
dew become in Missouri that my old friend and corre- 
spondent, Hermann Jaeger, of Neosho, one of the most 
persevering of pioneers in grape culture in his section, 
had abandoned about all the Labruscas and their hy- 
brids and confined his efforts to such ironclads as Nor- 
ton’s Virginia and Cynthiana, with a few of the Aisti- 
valis and Rupestris sections. Now, after thorough trials 
since 1885, he finds that he can not only grow the varie- 
ties of American origin liable to the disease, but has 
hopes of success with some of the Vinifera, with some 
protection in winter. He finds that with repeated spray- 
ing he can not alone obtain a good crop, but also keep 
the foliage in a healthy condition, thus promoting the 


AND WINE MAKING. 69 


ripening of the wood, and in consequence, the hardiness 
of the vine in winter. His experience will be more fully 
given in his own words in Part II of this work. 

Prof. R. N. Price, of the Texas Agricultural and Me- 
chanical College, has given the subject of black rot 
much attention. He propagated the fungus from spores, 
and published its life history in an illustrated bulletin, 
which is the most complete treatise on the subject I 
have yet seen. I regret that want of space forbids its 
reproduction entire, in this volume, but some of his 
experience will be given at the end of this chapter, as it 
elates to nearly all fungous diseases of the grape, and 
about the same remedies are applicable to all. 

Downy Mitpew (Peronospora viticola).—This is also 
called ‘‘gray rot,” as the young berries, when first 
attacked, show marbling or veins of gray. This soon 
changes to a uniform gray, entirely over the affected 
berry, which shrinks and drops. It attacks all the green 
parts of the vine, showing like a gray down on the under- 
side of the leaves, and appearing as rusty blotches on 
the upper side. It usually appears in warm, sultry 
weather, after the berries are nearly grown, and as the 
fungus spreads very rapidly it is one of'the most destruc- 
tive if left unchecked. ‘Ihe spores are produced on the 
extremity of minute, threadlike stems, which protrude 
through the underside of the leaf. They are contained 
in small spherical savs, which are blown about by the 
wind, and alighting upon the soft green surface of the 
leaves, soon burst and the liberated spores germinate, 
spreading the disease to all parts of the vine. As gen- 
eration follows generation with great rapidity, the spores 
continue to spread through the entire vineyard until 
autumn, when the hardy winter spores are formed in 
small sacs with tough leathery coats which live through 
the winter, and renew the work of infection in the 
spring. The disease spreads very rapidly during cold, 


40 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


wet weather, although any weakness of the vines caused 
by overbearing, exhaustion of the soil, or other means, 
may induce its development or increase its injurious 
effects. The berries, when attacked by downy mildew, 
seldom attain more than half size. The surface, after 
the attack of the fungus, assumes a grayish color, which 
soon turns to brown, thus producing a brown or gray 
rot. The best preventive measures are to burn all in- 
fected dry leaves and rubbish in the fall, and to thor- 
oughly spray the vines in spring with Bordeaux mixture. 

Powpery Muiupew (Uncinula spitalis). — Unlike 
downy mildew, this disease flourishes with special energy 
in dry, hot weather. It is not greatly destructive in the 
Eastern and Northern States, but more so on the Pacific 
coast. It draws its sustenance through filaments which 
pierce the outer membrane of the leaves and fruit, and 
presents the appearance of a dirty, powdery coating so 
well known to vineyardists, rendering the grapes unfit 
for market or for wine. The fungus is especially de- 
structive in seasons of protracted drouth. In California, 
where it is quite prevalent, the usual preventive is pow- 
dered sulphur, dusted over and among the leaves, by 
means of a fine wire sieve, or a bellows made for the 
‘ purpose. It is first applied when the young shoots are 
about a foot long, and before blooming. Should it ap- 
pear at a later period a second application will be neces- 
sary. The disease often makes its appearance in June, 
during the period of bloom, affecting the embryo shoots 
and preventing their growth ; but more frequently, after 
the vines have escaped an earlier attack, it appears dur- 
ing protracted drouths, arresting the growth of the 
young shoots and the development of the berries, 
which crack, and attain only one-half their normal 
size. The disease not only impairs the growth and 
appearance of the grapes, but also prevents the fermen- 
tation of the must, if they are pressed for wine, The 


AND WINE MAKING. 71 


winter spores doubtless remain uninjured on the vines 
and fallen leaves, ready to spring into life the following 
summer, 

It is doubtful whether spraying with Bordeaux mix- 
ture is a specific for powdery mildew. Experiments 
have been made with sulphur and Bordeaux mixture 
combined, but without success, as the sulphur was much 
weakened by the combination. Mr. Hermann Jaeger 
writes to me from Missouri that while the direct effect 
of spraying with copper mixture may not be specifically 
preventive of downy mildew, yet he finds that it pro- 
motes the general health and vigor of the vine, and thus 
assists it in resisting the attacks of fungus. 

ANTHRACNOSE (Gleosporium ampelophagum).—This 
has never proved very destructive in California, though 
it appears to a greater or less extent every year, on a few 
of the vines. It is first seen during the latter part of 
June, in some cases affecting only a part of the vine, 
but more frequently infecting leaves, young shoots and 
fruit, and proving ultimately fatal. It is, in this State, 
also called Spanish measles, in reference to the light 
brown or reddish spots which first appear, and from 
which the disease spreads. The old Mission grape has 
been more largely infected than any other variety. The 
berries and branches are affected alike; the former be- 
come deformed and crack, and at length the affected 
part, or in some cases the entire vine, dries up and dies. 
The diseased parts should be promptly cut out and 
burned to prevent the spread of the spores. Applica- 
tions of powdered sulphur and air-slaked lime in equal 
proportions are also recommended, as is also spraying 
with the copper solution mixtures. A remedial prepa- 
ration called Fortite has recently been introduced from 
France, where the disease is much more prevalent and 
destructive than here. That the disease is of fungus 
origin there is no question, but the methods of success- 


42 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


fal treatment are not as well determined as are those for 
black rot and some other affections. 

Bitter Ror (Greeneria fuliginea).— This disease 
takes its name from the bitter taste it imparts to grapes. 
It generally appears when the berries begin to ripen, as 
a brownish circle or spot, which enlarges until the en- 
tire berry turns brown, though for a time it retains its 
full size. Finally small, purplish pimples appear on the 

surtace; the berry shrinks and falls. 

'  Wurte Ror (Coniothyrium diplodiella).—This disease 
attacks the fruit and its pedicles, as well as the stem of 
the bunch, but not the leaves or branches. ‘The pedicles 
become brown, the berries are at first very juicy; small 
gray or brownish pustules appear on the surface, and 
the berries dry up, assuming a grayish-white color, 
which distinctly marks the appearance of this disease 
from that of black rot. 

RovuGEorT is not a fungous disease, but is the result of 
an interruption of the physiological processes in the 
plant. It causes a break in the equilibrium which 
should be maintained between absorption and transpira- 
tion. In this trouble the leaves turn red or yellow in 
spots or bands, and the vines are killed as a result of the 
death of the leaves. The first reported appearance of 
this disease on this side of the Atlantic was in 1890, 
when it was observed in the central region of New 
York. Its attack is marked by small, dark, irregular 
blotches between the veins of the leaves. These spots 
enlarge rapidly and darken to a dull purple or reddish 
brown, which become confluent, the leaf-veins alone 
remaining green or yellow. The contrast between the 
affected parts and the green leaf-veins gives the foliage a 
peculiar streaked appearance. In serious cases the leaves 
at length curl up and fall, leaving the vine bare. This 
denudation arrests at once the ripening of the fruit, and 
leaves it flat, insipid and sour. In severe cases the ber- 


AND WINE MAKING, 73 


ries fall off, covering the ground beneath the vine with 
worthless fruit, to which a few fibers of the diseased 
pedicles still adhere. Even in mild attacks the berries 
shell off badly from the bunches, rendering them unfit 
- for market, while the affected berries are of no value 
for wine. 

The disease is most prevalent upon cold, heavy clay 
soils. ‘Thorough underdraining of such soils will per- 
haps be found the best preventive. ‘There is no appar- 
ent connection between the disease and sterility, for it 
appears equally on lands which have been heavily ma- 
nured, and those without fertilizers. ‘That the vine, in 
cases where its growth is materially checked by this dis- 
ease, should be pruned very short, and possibly in ex- 
treme cases cut wholly back, would appear to be logical 
to every grape grower. 

RipE Ror (Gleosporium fructigenum).—It is only 
within the last five years that the disease has appeared 
to any seriously damaging extent, but its increase is such 
as to cause grave apprehensions. It commonly shows 
itself at first upon one or two berries in close, compact 
bunches, from which it spreads rapidly, especially in 
close, hot weather. In California it appears when the 
grapes are ripening, manifesting itself only by discolora- 
_ tion of the berries, and spreading to others. ‘The qual- 
_ ity is not affected for a time, as the grapes remain sweet 
and unchanged. In the Eastern and Northern States 
there appears to bea connection if not identity between 
_ this disease and the ‘bitter rot” of apples. In fact, 
_ the experts of the United States Department of Agricul- 
_ ture have agreed that it is one and the same disease. It 
_ certainly calls for the utmost vigilance on the part of 
_ grape growers. arly and persistent spraying with 
_ some of the mixtures recommended for black rot and 
downy mildew may also prove efficient against this. 

THE VALUE or SprAyING.—There may even yet be 


¥4 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


some skeptics who doubt the efficacy of spraying with 
fungicides for the purpose of combating, or rather of 
preventing, fungous diseases, but the experience of all 
who have used it early, carefully and persistently is 
wholly in its favor. The strongest proof of merit is its 
rapid and extensive spread since it was first made known 
to the public by Commissioner Norman J. Colman, of 
the United States Department of Agriculture. At first 
there may have been as many as fifty persons who 
adopted and tried it; now the number is not less than 
fifty thousand. No new method could make such prog- 
ress if it did not possess genuine merit. It should be 
borne in mind, however, that spraying with any of the 
proved fungicides is preventive rather than remedial. 
The work must therefore begin in time, if it is to prove 
effective. Early applications are, besides, the most 
economical, as it requires less of the material to reach 
all parts of the vine when in a dormant or partly devel- 
oped condition, than when all the foliage and fruit are 
fully grown. One of the earliest and most successful 
advocates and practical exponents of spraying is my 
friend, Hermann Jaeger, of Neosho, Missouri, who had 
given up, after long and patient trial, nearly all but the | 
ironclad varieties, Norton’s and Cynthiana, when he 
was appointed as agent of the United States Department 
of Agriculture to conduct the experimental work in 
Northwestern Missouri. His essay, read before the Mis- 
souri Horticultural Society in December, 1892, gives his 
experience so plainly that I cannot do better than to 
insert it in Part II of this work, with added details of 
his subsequent experience. He shows that greatly 
diluted applications have been fully as efficient as the 
stronger ones, and that the cost, aside from that for 
labor, is thus reduced to a mere trifle in comparison 
with the value of the vines and fruit thereby saved from 
destruction. 


AND WINE MAKING. 75 


CHAPTER XVII 
INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE GRAPE, 


As the most destructive of all, because it works chiefly 
widerground, and the mischief it does will only be per- 
ceived in its effects, I may consider the Phylloxera vasta- 
triz or grapevine-root louse. Concerning the exist- 
ence of this pest, we have for a long time been ignorant, 
until the efforts vf our State Entomologist, Prof. C. V. 
Riley, and of other entomologists, especially Prof. 
Planchon, of France, have enlightened us upon the 
subject, and made us aware of the danger threatening 
our vineyards, but especially those of Europe and Cali- 
fornia, where the vinifera vlass had so far been cultivated 
almost exclusively. It threatens now. to sweep out of 
_ sxistence that whole class, a1.d it is a very noteworthy 
fact that from this country, fronz which the fell destroyer 
_ was imported into Europe, should also come the only 
effective remedy so far found, nanely, the introduction 
of phylloxera-proof varieties of vines, which are found 
chiefly in the e@stivalis and cordifclia (or riparia) 
_ classes. All other remedies, except inundation, seem to 
have failed, and Prof. Planchon, in a letter to me, ex- 
_ presses his firm belief that the only hope of saving that 
' great source of wealth to the French nation, cheir vine- 
yards, is in the introduction and general cultivation of 
_ our phylloxera-proof varieties of the grape, first as a stock 
_ to graft the vinifera upon, and secondly to cultivate our 
_ gtapes for their fruit, if they can find varieties which 
i will make such wines as the popular taste there demands, 

With this object in view millions upon millions of 
~ American cuttings and plants have already been imported 


i 
i 
Ge 


76 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


into France, and the demand is still as active as ever. 
The Lenoir, or Jacques as they call it there, for a time 
promised to be all they wanted, as it was vigorous and 
made an exquisite red wine. But the dry rot appeared 
upon it; the Cunningham and Herbement were imported 
largely, but it is feared they will not- be quite hardy 
enough for Northern France. Their attention is now 
drawn towards the Taylor, as a very easy vine to propa- 
gate, and an excellent stock to graft upon, and if we 
once have varieties which have the phylloxera-proof 
roots of the Taylor, and which besides are abundant 
bearers, as we now seem to have in the Elvira and her 
sisters, we have found what is desired, and the supposi- 
tion is but natural that they will become in time the 
wine grapes of the whole civilized world. It is indeed 
wonderful that, when this insect threatens to destroy 
the grapevines of the Old World, its remedy should be 
found here in our Missouri vineyards, and it may truly 
be called providential. It would require too much space 
to give the full natural history of the insect, and I refer 
those who wish to study it to the valuable Report* of 
Prof. Riley, of which I copy the most important part : 
How THE PHYLLOXERA AFFECTS THE VINE.—Prof. 
Riley says: ‘The result which follows the puncture of 
the root louse is an abnormal swelling, differing in form 
according to the particular part and texture of the root. 
These swellings, which are generally commenced at the 
tips of the rootlets, eventually rot, and the lice forsake 
them and betake themselves to fresh ones. ‘The decay 
affects the parts adjacent to the swellings, and on the 
more fibrous roots cuts off the supply of sap to all parts 
beyond. As these last decompose, the lice congregate 


—e_7_ 


*Sixth Annual Report on the Noxious, Beneficial, and Other Insects 
of the State of Missouri, by C. V. Riley, State Entomologist. St. Louis, 
Mo., 1874. 


‘2 AND WINE MAKING, "7 


~ 


on the larger ones, until at last the root system literally 
wastes away. . | 

‘* During the first year of attack, there are scarcely any 
outward manifestations of disease, though the fibrous 
roots, if examined, will be found covered with nodosities, 
particularly in the latter part of the growing season. 
The disease is then in its incipient stage. The second 
year all these fibrous roots vanish, and the lice not only 
prevent the formation of new ones, but, as just stated, 
settle on the larger roots, which they injure by causing 


- hypertrophy of the parts punctured, which also eventu- 


ally become disorganized and rot. At this stage the out- 
ward symptoms of the disease first become manifest, in a 
sickly, yellowish appearance of the leaf and a reduced 
growth of cane. As the roots continue to decay, these 
symptoms become more acute, until by about the third 
year the vine dies. When the vine is about dying it is 
generally impossible to discover the cause of the death, 
the lice, which had been so numerous the first and second ~ 
years of invasion, having left for fresh pasturage.” 

“*'The life-history of the Grape Phylloxera may be thus 
epitomized : It hibernates mostly as a young larva, tor- 
pidly attached to the roots of the vine, and so deepened 
in color as generally to be of a dull brassy-brown, and, 
therefore, with difficulty perceived, as the roots are often 
of the same color. With the renewal of vine growth in 
the spring, this larva moults, rapidly increases in size, and 
soon commences laying eggs. ‘These eggs, in due time, 
give birth to young, which soon become virginal, egg- 
laying mothers, like the first ; and, like them, always re- 
main wingless. Five or six generations of these partheno- 
genetic, egg-bearing, apterous mothers follow each other ; 
when—about the middle of July, in this latitude—some 
of the individuals begin to acquire wings. These are all 
females, and like the wingless mothers, they are partheno- 


_ genetic. Having issued from the ground, while in the 


78 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING res 
pupa state, they rise in the air and spread to new vine- 
yards, where they deliver themselves of their issue in the 
form of eggs or egg-like bodies—usually two or three in 
number, and not exceeding eight—and then perish. 
These eggs are of two sizes, the larger about 0.02 inch 
long, and the smaller about three-fifths of that length. 
In the course of a fortnight they produce the sexual indi- 
vidual, the larger ones giving birth to females, the smaller 
to males. ‘These sexual individuals are born for no other 
purpose than the reproduction of their kind, and are 
without means of flight, or of taking food, or excreting. 
They are quite active and couple readily; one male be- 
ing capable, no doubt, of serving several females, as Bal- 
biani found to be the case with the European quercus. 
The abdomen of the female, after impregnation, en- 
larges somewhat, and she is soon delivered of a solitary 
egg, which differs from the ordinary eggs of the parthe- 
nogenetic mother only in becoming somewhat darker. 
This impregnated egg gives birth to a young louse, which 
becomes a virginal, egg-bearing, wingless mother, and 
thus recommences the cycle of the species’ evolution. 
But one of the most important discoveries of Balbiani is 
that, during the latter. part of the season, many of the 
wingless, hypogean mothers perform the very same func- 
tion as the winged one; 7%. ¢., they lay a few eggs which 
are of two sizes, and which produce males and females, 
organized and constructed precisely as those born of the 
winged females, and, like them, producing the solitary 
impregnated egg. Thus, the interesting fact is estab- 
lished that even the winged form is by no means essen- 
tial to the perpetuation of the species; but that, if all 
such winged individuals were destroyed as fast as they 
issue from the ground, the species could still go on mul- 
tiplying in a vineyard from year to year. We have, 
therefore, the spectacle of an underground insect posses- 
sing the power of continued existence, even when confined 


AND WINE MAKING, 79 


to its subterranean retreats. It spreads in the wingless 
state from vine to vine, and from vineyard to vineyard, 
when these are adjacent, either through passages in the 
ground itself, or over the surface. At the same time it 
is able, in the winged condition, to migrate to much 
more distant points. The winged females, as before 
stated, begin to appear in July, and continue to issue 
from the ground until vine growth ceases in the fall. 
Yet they are much more abundant in August than during 
any other month, and on certain days may be said to lit- 
erally swarm. Every piece of root a few inches long, and 
haying rootlets, taken from an infested vine at this sea- 
son, will present a goodly proportion of pups; and an 
ordinary quart preserve jar, filled with such roots and 
tightly closed, will furnish daily, for two or three weeks, 
a dozen or more of the winged females, which gather on 
the sides of the jar toward the light. We may get some 
idea, from this fact, of the immense numbers that dis- 
perse through the air to new fields, from a single acre of 
infected vines, in the course of the late summer and fall 
months. 

*“If to the above account we add that occasionally 
individuals abandon their normal underground habit, and 
form galls upon the leaves of certain varieties of grape- 
vine, we have, in a general way, the whole natural his- 
tory of the species.” 

He takes the ground that it is the cause of most of the 
diseases in the ZLabrusca class, and especially in the 
Catawba, as a vine with a diseased root can not produce 
healthy fruit, and these conclusions are certainly logical. 
He advises grafting on Phylloxera proof roots as a reme- 
dy, and to those wishing to save such varieties as the 
Catawba and Delaware, this is certainly the best course. 
But I think that they are already superseded by grapes 
of better quality, and my advice is to plant none but 
Phylloxera proof varieties. So far as I know, the follow- 


80 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ing varieties are especially subject to its ravages : Cataw- 
ba, Delaware, Hartford, most of Rogers’ Hybrids, Iona, 
Isabella, Creveling, Diana, Maxatawney, Cassady, Rebec- 
ca, Croton. The following are not quite exempt, but are 
so vigorous that they seem but little injured: Concord, 
Martha, Goethe, Wilder, Ives, Perkins, Telegraph, Mary 
Ann. The whole estivalis and cordifolia group appear 
to be free from its ravages. It is strange, however, that 
the gall-producing type of the insect will prefer the leaves 
of the Taylor and Clinton, while the type which works 
at the root does not affect them. 

The other insect enemies, although very numerous, are 
not so devastating as the Phylloxera. 

The common Gray Cut-worm will often eat the tender 
shoots of the young plantations, and draw them into the 
ground below. It can be readily detected, so soon as its 
ravages are seen, by stirring the ground about the vine, 
when it will be found under some of the loose clods, 
and easily killed. 

The small worms, belonging to the leaf-folding class, 
some of them white, some bluish-green, have already 
been mentioned under ‘‘Summer-pruning.” They 
should be destroyed at that time; closely watch them 
when they make their webs among the young shoots, as 
they will become very destructive if not checked in time. 

Another leaf-folder comes about mid-summer, making 
its web on the leaf, drawing it together, and then devour- 
ing its own house. It is a small, whitish-gray, active 
worm, which will drop to the ground as soon as disturbed. 
I know of no other way but to catch and destroy it. 

Several beetles will feed on the young buds before they 
expand, one about the size and color of a hemp seed ; an- 
other is of a steel-blue color; both are very active. They 
can be caught in early morning, when they are yet torpid, 
by spreading a newspaper under the vine and shaking it, 
wien they will drop upon the paper. 


AND WINE MAKING, 8] 


The Grape-vine Fidia, a small beetle, ashy-gray, some- 
times comes in swarms, preying on the foliage, riddling 
it completely, and even attacking the young fruit. 
Hand-shaking, as above, in the morning, is also the best 
treatment for these, as well as for the Grape Curculio. 


The Thrip, a small, three-cornered, whitish insect, has 
sometimes become very troublesome, as they eat the 
under side of the leaves of some varieties, especially of 
the estivalis class, when the leaf will show rusty specks 
on the surface, and eventually drop. Carrying lighted 
. torches through the vineyard at night, and beating the 
vines to disturb them, is one of the best remedies, as 
they will fly into the flames. They are a great annoy- 
ance and should be destroyed in time, before they get too 
numerous, as they will defoliate whole vineyards. It is 
strange that they have almost entirely disappeared in our 
Missouri vineyards, where they were so numerous formerly, 
and are now very annoying in the vineyards on Crooked 
Lake, New York, where I saw them in great abundance. 


The Aphis, or Plant Louse, covers the young shoots 
of the vines occasionally, sucking their juice. The best 
remedy is taking off the shoot, and crushing them under 
foot. 

The Grape-vine Sphinx is a large, green worm, with 
black dots. It is very voracious, but can easily be found 
and destroyed. The worms do a great deal of mischief, 
but fortunately are not very numerous. The best remedy 
against them, and all other caterpillars, is hand picking. 


The Rocky Mountain Locust, or Grasshopper, as it is 
generally called, is one of the most destructive insects 
in those districts invaded by it, and ruined the crops 
of nearly two seasons in some sections in 1875. Fortu-. 
nately its range is very limited, and it appears but rarely. 
But wken once it gets into a vineyard, not a green leaf | 


or shoot is left, and if this occurs as late as the first of 
G 


82 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


June, it stunts the vines for the next season. One of the 
best remedies is to dig a trench 2 to 3 feet wide, at the 
side of the vineyard from which they are expected, into 
which they will tumble, and they should then be crushed 
by dragging a log or roller along the ditch. If this is 
done repeatedly they may be kept out. 

Wasps and bees are sometimes very troublesome when 
the fruit ripens, wounding the berries and sucking the 
juice. A great many can be caught by hanging up bottles 
with a little molasses, into which they will readily crawl 
and seal their fate. But while there are many injuri- 
ous insects, we may also count some of them among our 
best friends, which will greatly assist in destroying the 
others, and which we should hold in. grateful remem- 
brance. Among these is the little Lady Bug, the small 
red or yellow and black beetle, which is always on the 
lookout and very active in destroying the Aphis and 
White Thrip. These should be fostered, and not de- 
stroyed, as is done by many ignorant persons. The Man- 
tis, the Rear Horse, or Devil’s Horse, as it is often 
called, but the correct name of which is Camel Cricket, 
is the friend of the vine grower. It destroys countless 
numbers of injurious insects, especially the native grass- 
hoppers and katydids, which are so apt to cut off the 
bunches just before ripening. They and their eggs, 
which are often found on the vines glued together in a 
mass, like a rather square cocoon, should be carefully 
preserved, and even colonized. We place our common 
toad among our friends, as it is a great destroyer of nox- 
ious insects, and always on the hunt for bugs of all kinds, 
The toads and our common active little lizards should 
be treated with kindness by us, not killed, as they are 
by many unthinking people who have a mistaken idea 
that they are injurious and poisonous. 


~ a 


eee eee eee ee 


AND WINE MAKING, 83 


CHAPTER XVIII. 
FROSTS—WINTER PROTECTION. 


Our winters are rarely so severe as to injure or kill 
the hardiest varieties, such as Concord and Geethe, al- 
though the winters of 1863, 1872, 1874, and 1878, may 
be cited as instances when even these and Norton’s were in- 
jured. They often, however, harm the Herbemont, Cun- 
ningham, and Lenoir. ‘These can be protected by bend- 
ing the vines down in the fall, and covering them with 
earth thrown on with the plow. ‘To prepare them for 
this, prune as soon as the wood is fully ripe, and after a 
rain, when the canes bend easily, go through, and while 
one man bends the canes down along the trellis, let the 
other throw a few spadefuls of earth upon them, to keep 
them down. Then follow with the plow, and they can 
be easily covered. But do not take them up in spring 
until danger of frost is over, for they will become more 
tender by being under ground all winter, and even a 
moderate frost will injure the buds. In taking up, run a 
fork under them and lift them out. They should not be 
covered too deep, a light protection is enough; but to 
merely bend them down without covering, as some advise, 
is worse than leaving them on the trellis, as they are 
more easily injured here, where we do not often have 
snow to cover them. All hardy varieties should be cut 
loose in fall, as when the wind can sway them about they 
are not so apt to be injured. One of the surest preven- 
tives of injury by frost is, however, to plant none but the 
hardiest varieties. None of the cordifolia class, as far as 
I know, have ever suffered, and here again the Elvira 
stands pre-eminent, as not a bud was hurt, even during 
the hard winters of 1872-74 and, ’78. 


84 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


But while we have methods to protect even the most 
tender in winter, by a little extra labor, I know of no 
generally effective means of protection against early frosts 
in fall and late frosts in spring. We should, therefore, 
avoid all locations subject to these, which are generally 
those near small streams, creeks, and rivulets, while 
locations on the large rivers, and on the high table lands, 
are generally free from them, and have, in fact, a season 
of a month earlier in spring, and a month later in fall, 
free from frosts. This is certainly very important to the 
grape-grower, and he should look to it closely before 
choosing his location. It is sad and disheartening to see 
the fair promise of early spring browned, wilted, and 
blighted by a single night’s frost. But if it does occur, 
as it sometimes will, even in the best locations, do not 
become altogether discouraged. Every bud on the vine 
is, in fact, a tripleone. The main fruit bud in the center 
will generally start first, and if this is destroyed, the two 
secondary buds will often push, and although they will 
not produce so many or as large bunches, will often yield 
a pretty fair crop. | 

But the vines are threatened with the same danger in 
fall in these unfavorable locations ; to have one’s grapes 
and the still growing canes withered by an early frost in 
fall, when just ripening, and fit for nothing but vinegar, 
is a sad disappointment. ‘Therefore look well to this, 
and do not select an unfavorable location, when there is 
an abundance of the best to be had. 


: 
| 


AND WINE MAKING, 85 


CHAPTER XIX. 
GIRDLING, THINNING, AND MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS. 


The method of girdling appears to have been invented 
by Col. Buchatt, of Metz, in 1745. He claimed for it 
that it would also greatly improve the quality of the fruit, 
as well as hasten its maturity. It cannot be denied that 
it accomplishes the latter ; it also seems to increase the 
size of the berries, but I hardly think the fruit compares 
in flavor with that ripened in a natural way. But it 
may be of practical benefit to those who wish to grow the 
fruit for early market, as it will enable them to supply 
their customers a week earlier, and also make the fruit 
look better. I will, therefore, describe it briefly. It 
can be done either on the wood of last year’s growth, or 
upon the bearing shoot itself; but in any case only upon 
such as can be spared at next fall pruning. If you de- 
sire to affect the fruit of a whole cane, or arm, cut away a 
ring of bark by passing your knife all around it, and 
make another circle about half an inch above the first, 
taking out the ring of bark between them. It should be 
done immediately after the fruit is set. The bunches of 
fruit above the incision will become larger, and the fruit 
ripen and color finely about a week before the fruit on 
the other canes. If a single shoot only is to be affected, 
make the ring just above its base. Of course, neither 
cane nor shoot, thus girdled, can be used for bearirig 
next season, and must be cut away. About the same re- 
sult is obtained by twisting a wire tightly around the 
vine and thus arresting the flow of sap downwards, which 
then develops the fruit much faster. 

Ripening can also be hastened by planting against the 
south side of a wall or board fence, where the reflection 
of the rays of the sun will create a greater degree of 
warmth, 


86 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ange 


But nothing is more absurd than the practice of some, 
who will take away the leaves from the fruit, to hasten 
maturity. The leaves are the lungs of the plant, the 
- conductors and elaborators of sap, and nothing can be more 
injurious than to take them away at the very time when 
most needed. ‘The natural consequence is the withering 
and wilting of the bunches, and should they ripen at all, 
they will be flat and deficient in sugar and flavor. The 
injurious “‘ cutting in” of the young growth late in 
August, already referred to, is about of a piece with this 
folly, and will not only be detrimental to the fruit, but 
also to the ripening of the wood for next year. While 
all crowding of the young growth with the bearing canes 
should be avoided, to give free circulation of air, yet the 
leafy canopy of the young canes over the top of the trellis, 
will be in the highest degree beneficial to the ripening of 
the fruit. There is nothing more pleasing to the eye 
than a vineyard in September, with its wealth of dark- 
green foliage, and the rich clusters of the fruit beneath, 
coyly peeping from under their leafy covering. Good 
fruit will only ripen in partial shade, and such grapes 
will have arich bloom and color, as well as a thin skin 
and a rich flavor, which those hanging in the scorching 
rays of the sun can never attain. 


THINNING THE FRUIT. 


- It will sometimes be necessary to thin the fruit, in 
‘order to more thoroughly develop the remaining bunches. 
The best thinning is the reduction of bunches and _bear- 
ing shoots, at the first summer-pruning, and which has 
already been mentioned. Let the vine dresser always re- 
member that one fine bunch is worth more than two or 
three small, badly grown ones and, therefore, take away 
all the small, imperfect bunches and weak shoots. If the 
number of bunches on each fruit-bearing branch is re- 
duced to two, it will do no injury, but make them so 


AND WINE MAKING, 87 


much more heavy and perfect. Thinning of the berries 
with a small pair of scissors, often resorted to with 
grapes grown under glass, is a very laborious process to 
_ follow in vineyard culture ; though it will certainly make 
the remaining berries more perfect, it will hardly be 
generally adopted. 


RENEWING OLD VINES. 


Should a vineyard become old and feeble, it can be re- 
newed by layering. ‘To prepare for this, prune all the 
old wood from the vines, leaving but the thriftiest young 
cane, then dig a trench from the vine along the trellis, 
say 3 feet long and 10 inches deep, cut off the surface 
roots of the vine and bend it down into the trench, 
fastening with a hook, and let about three buds of the 
young cane come out above the ground, at the end of 
the trench. Then fill up with well pulverized soil. The 
_ vine will make roots at every joint, become vigorous and 
young again. Of course a season’s crop will be lost, but 
the vine will amply repay for it the season following. 


A FEW NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS. 


PRUNING SHEARS.—These are very handy, as with 
them the work can be done quicker and easier than with 


! Fig. 12.—PRUNING SHEARS. 
a knife, and but a slight pressure of the hand will cut 


a strong vine. Figure 12 gives the shape of one for 
heavy pruning. They are now made by several establish- 


88 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ments, and can be had at nearly all good hardware stores. 
The springs should be of brass, as steel springs are apt to 
break. A much lighter and smaller kind, with but one 
spring, is very convenient for gathering grapes, clipping 
out unripe or imperfect berries, and also in making cut- 
tings. Shears will cut the stem easily and smoothly, with- 
out jarring the vine, and are much superior to a knife. 
No one who has tried them will want to use a knife again. 

PRUNING SAws.—These are sometimes necessary to 
cut out old, diseased stumps, although if a vine is well 
managed this will seldom be necessary. Figure 13 shows 


Fig. 13.—PRUNING SAW. 


a kind very convenient for the purpose, as also for orchard 
pruning. - The bow is of steel, the blade narrow, and so 
connected with the wooden handle, that it can be turned 
in any direction, and can be tightened by a screw and 
nut above. 


PART II. 


EXPERIENCES OF OTHER GROWERS. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


The following is the result of correspondence with 
prominent grape growers of other States—men of high 
standing and large experience in viticulture. It brings 
down the record to more than ten years later than that 
of the first edition of this work. Many of my co-labor- 
ers in the early days of viticulture have passed away— 
men who have been an honor to the craft, such as Long- 
worth, Buchanan, Bateham, Wilder, Barry, Muench, 
Eikel, Dresel and Burr. 

To all who have aided by their contributions, I tender 
my hearty thanks—I shall ever hold them in grateful 
remembrance. 


GEORGE HUSMANN. 


| 


CHAPTER XX. 
GRAPE GROWING IN CENTRAL OHIO. 


GEORGE W. CAMPBELL. 


What I have to put on record in regard to this topic 
will be founded mainly upon my own experience, in this, 
a locality which is not specially adapted to grape grow- 
ing. Frosts late in the spring often injure and some- 
times destroy the grape crop, about the time of bloom- 


ing, while early autumn frosts render the cultivation of 


late ripening sorts unprofitable. I have not been able to 
ripen the Catawba in full, open exposure in thirty years, 
so my experience, it will be seen, has not been with late 
ripening sorts. 

A few words as to the behavior sa character sustained 
during the past twelve years by those mentioned in your 
former edition, may not be without value to those wish- 
ing to plant in localities similar to mine. 

The Lapy grape has fairly sustained its character, is 
hardy, healthy, productive, and still among the best 
early ripening white Concord seedlings. It ripens here 
from the middle to the last of August, about ten days 
earlier than Concord. In quality is good, color a light 
greenish yellow, skin thin, pulp tender, seeds few and 
small, flavor rich, sweet and slightly vinous. Berries a 
shade larger than Concord, clusters smaller. Desirable 
for near-by markets. 

MARTHA has measurably given place to newer and 
better varieties. 

WorDEN has steadily increased in favor as a popular 
grape. In many places it is regarded as superior to Con- 

91 


92 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


cord in size and quality, and equal in health and produc- 
tiveness. In habit of growth and appearance it strongly 
resembles Concord, but it ripens from ten to fourteen 
days earlier. Its greatest fault is its thin and tender 
skin, which breaks easily and makes it a poor shipping 
grape. 

Moore’s EAR ty has grown in public fayor as a good, 
early ripening black grape of the Concord type. The 
vine is hardy, healthy and vigorous, a good and regular 
bearer, and sufficiently productive. It ripens two weeks 
earlier than the Concord. It is largely planted in the 
Northern and Middle States. 

ConcorD still holds the position of being the most 
popular and most extensively planted variety. 

BricHToN has deservedly maintained a fair degree of 
popularity. Under favorable circumstances its growth 
is very vigorous and its foliage healthy, clusters large 
and quality very fine. It requires winter protection 
here, being not quite hardy. The blossoms are some- 
what imperfect, and the clusters are likely to be loose 
and uneven if cool, rainy weather prevails at the time of 
blooming. It is medium as to time of ripening. 

Purity, I regret to say, has not fulfilled its early 
promise. [I still grow it to some extent, but its small 
clusters and the great difficulty in propagating it render 
it unprofitable. Its quality is very fine and it is among 
the earliest to ripen. 

DELAWARE still holds its place among the best and 
finest flavored of all our American grapes. Mildew of 
the foliage and a tendency to overbear prevent its success 
in some localities. ‘The former is being prevented by 
spraying with Bordeaux mixture and other fungicides, 
and the area of its successful cultivation is thus 
being extended. Its high character will probably always 
make the Delaware a favorite for the amateur as well as 
profitable for market and wines. 


AND WINE MAKING. 93 


Etvira does not seem to have fulfilled the expecta- 
tions of its introducers. It is not good enough for the 
table and it has not attained sufficient popularity as a 
wine grape to render its cultivation desirable or profitable. 

NIAGARA was introduced with extraordinary claims 
and under close restrictions and at very high prices, but 
it has not sustained the high character claimed for it by 


its introducers, though it retains considerable popular- 


ity and is profitably grown in some localities. 'The vine 
is very vigorous and productive, clusters and berries 
large and handsome, and quality, when fully ripened, 
fairly good—quite acceptable as a market variety. It is 
not uniformly hardy in this section without winter pro- 
tection or in most places north of 40° of latitude, and it 
has seemed more inclined to rot than most other kinds. 
It is reported as profitable in some parts of the South. 

POCKLINGTON, which was introduced about the same 
time as Niagara, has attained considerable popularity 
and is being quite largely planted. It is a good, showy, 
white, medium late, market grape. ‘The vine is among 
the hardiest and most productive of the so-called white 
Concord seedlings. Its clusters and berries are among 
the largest, and when well grown and well ripened, are 
quite acceptable in quality. By reason of its hardiness, 
it can be planted over a much larger territory than the 
Niagara. 

PRENTISS proved, upon extensive trial, to be a failure 
in most places, and is now little planted or called for. 
A single vine on a south wall sometimes gives me a few 
handsome clusters of fine grapes, but it is generally 
unproductive. 

LADY WASHINGTON has never achieved general pop- 
ularity and is little grown, except by amateurs. Judg- 
ing from my own experience, it is quite unreliable. 

JEFFERSON has many good qualities, but is not quite 
hardy in severe winters and is too late in spring, for 


94 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


most localities. It isa good grower, with healthy foli- 
age, blossoms perfect, clusters large and handsome, often 
double shouldered, very fine in quality, pure flavored, 
resembling Iona in its best condition. It sets more fruit 
than it can mature, and to produce best results a portion 
must be removed. By this means, a vine on a stone 
wall with an eastern exposure gives me an annual crop of 
fine grapes. It has been, with me, more reliable than 
Iona, either on the wall or in open exposure. 

Among the more important later introductions tested 
here since the publication of your first edition are the 
following : 

Empire 8rate, which was originated by J. H. Rick- 
etts of Newburgh, N. Y., and highly commended in its 
introduction, has not proved generally successful. It is 
a white grape, handsome and of good quality when well 
ripened. It has a tendency to overbear, or the inability 
to carry a fair crop to maturity. It is a good grower, 
with an abundant and healthy foliage, large clusters, 
berries medium, seeds few and small, with a flavor sug- 
gestive of the Muscats or Frontignans. Its originator 
claims it to be a cross between Hartford and Clinton, 
but I am inclined to the opinion that it is a cross or 
hybrid, with too much of the foreign element in its 
composition. 

UtsteErR (Ulster Prolific), originated by the late A. J. 
Caywood, has many good qualities and will probably 
attain a fair position among desirable varieties for gen- 
eral use. ‘The vine appears hardy and productive, of good 
foliage, and is a moderate grower. The berries are me- 
dium to large, with color like Catawba and a somewhat 
similar flavor; medium early in ripening, and a good 
keeper after being gathered. 

NectTaR, another of Mr. Caywood’s grapes, which is 
said to be a seedling of Delaware and which was at first 
called Black Delaware, seems a promising variety. The 


lie le —r 7 


AND WINE MAKING. 95 


vine is healthy, hardy and productive ; a vigorous grower ; 
berries and clusters medium large and well formed ; fla- 
vor pure, sprightly, sweet and good. If it does as well 
elsewhere as here, it will prove a valuable grape for gen- 
eral use. 

Wirt, named for its originator, the late Michael Witt 
of Columbus, Ohio, is among the best of the white Con- 
cord seedlings. It has proven fully as hardy and healthy 
as the Concord, not quite as vigorous in growth, but 
quite productive. Berries large, oval; skin rather thin ; 
seeds few and small; clusters medium to large; pulp 
tender; flavor rich, sweet, sprightly; quality good to 
very good. Ripens early—a little later than Lady. It 
is difficult to propagate and is of slow growth until 
established. 

CoLERAIN is another white Concord seedling, orig- 
inating at Colerain, Ohio. The vine is healthy and vig- 
orous, fairly productive ; clusters of medium size, early 
and of fine quality. 

DucuHeEss has not proved generally useful, though it is ~ 
prized in places where it can be successfully grown. 
Here it is not hardy and is especially liable to mildew 
and rot. 

GREEN MOUNTAIN, from Vermont, is a recent intro- 
duction, promising to be valuable as one of the earliest 
ripening grapes of fine quality. Vine is moderately vig- 
orous and hardy. Cluster and berry medium, color 
light green, quality fine. A grape known in some sec- 
tions as Winchell is said to be the same variety. 

Moore’s DIAMOND, originated by Jacob Moore of 
Brighton, N. Y., highly commended generally, with me 
has been too unproductive for profitable planting. It 
seems as hardy as the Rogers’ Hybrids or the Niagara, 
with good foliage. 

Wooprurr Rep is a large and attractive grape of the 
Labrusca type and is said to be a Concord seedling. It 


96 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


originated at Ann Arbor, Mich., and has attained pop. 
ularity as a market grape. The vine is vigorous, hardy, 
healthy and very productive. Though not of high qual- 
ity, it is generally acceptable and may ey claim a 
place among standard varieties. 

EATON, probably another Concord, or perhaps an Isa- 
bella seedling, a very large and showy black grape, much 
like the old Union Village, is now under trial. I donot 
think it is a new variety, for I had it, or its double, in 
my garden for some twenty years, and never regarded it 
worthy of introduction. The vine and foliage are like 
an exaggerated Concord, and the fruit also. In quality 
it is not equal to Concord, and it is later. It is fairly 
productive and may prove a profitable market grape. 

VERGENNES has been favorably received and is a 
handsome red grape of good quality, ripening a little 
after Concord and keeping well after gathering. 

Moyer, which originated in Canada, is a small red 
grape, resembling Delaware, but with healthier foliage. 
Moderately productive. In quality it is good, not equal 
to Delaware. 

JEWEL is a small black grape, originated by John 
Burr of Kansas. It has too many imperfect clusters to 
be valuable. 

Earty Onto is a black grape of recent introduction. 
As I have seen it, it appears to be inferior in quality, 
and probably no earlier than the Champion. 

Within the past few years I have received, through 
the courtesy of Prof. T. V. Munson of Texas, some very 
interesting specimens of the results he has already 
achieved by growing seedlings from a great variety of 
grapes, crossed both naturally and artificially. I have 
found the grapes he has sent me, as a rule, of great ex- 
cellence and beauty. I have grown but few of them 
and fruited but one long enough to say anything posi- 
_ tive. This is one he has named Brilliant. The vine ig 


AND WINE MAKING. 9? 


a strong grower; foliage large and healthy, not subject 
to mildew; hardy here when exposed to 10° below 
zero.. Cluster and berry of medium size, compact, 
handsome, of quite dark, brilliant red color; quality 
nearly equaling Delaware. I regard it as a grape of 
great promise. 

Of my own comparatively small efforts, I wish to say 
very little. Though I have been, for more than thirty 
years, growing crosses between our native and foreign 
grapes, re-crossing and combining, wherever the indica- 
tions pointed to the results for which I was striving, 
and though my disappointments have been many, the 
pursuit has been interesting, and I believe I have learned 
something as to the probabilities, as well as possibilities, 
of success through the agencies which nature yields only 
to him who carefully studies, and works in harmony 
_ with her laws. My later efforts have been directed 
toward the production of a grape that shall have all the 
good points of the Concord, or Worden, combined with 
better keeping and shipping qualities. This would re- 
quire a more tenacious skin, and a little more firmness 
of flesh, forming a berry not easily broken by ordinary 
handling. Earlier ripening, especially if accompanied 
by better keeping qualities, would be for many sections 
most desirable. Vigor of growth, abundant productive- 
ness, hardiness against severe winters, health of foliage, 
resisting of mildew under all ordinary circumstances— 
would also be indispensable. If the clusters and berries 
could be larger and more perfectly formed, and the qual- 
ity higher and better, the combination would be still nearer 
to the “‘perfect grape.” I am now willing to say that, 
after five years bearing, I believe I have accomplished 
very nearly, if not quite, the hoped-for result, and that 
I may reasonably exnect to offer a grape of the Labrusca 
type, with the sanction of my own name and approval, 
which will be of acknowledged worth and value, wherever 


? 


98 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


the vine and its noble fruit are prized by the horticultur- 
ists of our Union. 

A word as to the value of the discoveries, by scientific 
men, of remedies against the encroachments of fungous 
diseases and insect enemies, which have in so many places 
‘injured or destroyed our grapes and other cultivated 
fruits. That the timely and persistent application of 
the Bordeaux mixture, ‘‘ Hau Celeste,” and kindred 
remedies now easily attainable, will effectively prevent 
the attacks of the greatest enemies the grape grower has 
to contend with, there can be no doubt. And I believe 
that through their use, many of the finer varieties can 
be perfectly and successfully grown in many sections 
where it has been heretofore impossible. 

I do not think that vines in this section are as liable 
to mildew of foliage and rotting, as in many other 
places ; for I have always been able, by early applications 
of sulphur and quicklime mixed in about equal parts, 
and blown upon the foliage with an ordinary sulphuring 
bellows, to prevent any serious injury from either. And 
I have found this remedy, used as a preventive, very 
nearly as effective as the later and more popular sulphate 
of copper mixtures, 


AND WINE MAKING. 99 


CHAPTER XXI. 


THE GRAPE-GROWING DISTRICT OF CENTRAL NEW YORE, 


D. BAUDER, SECRETARY AND TREASURER PLEASANT VALLEY WINE 
COMPANY. 

This comprises what is locally known as the Lake 
Keuka district, with about ten thousand acres; Canan- 
daigua lake, including Naples, five thousand acres; and 
Seneca lake, five thousand acres. The average yield is 
estimated at one ton of grapes per acre. ‘The disposition 
for the crop of 1893 was in the aggregate about as fol- 
lows: Fourteen thousand tons shipped for table use ; 
two thousand tons to wine makers in other places; and 
four thousand tons made into wine by local wine makers. 
Two hundred thousand gallons of this wine were made 
into champagne, producing about one million bottles. 
The largest makers were the Pleasant Valley Wine Com- 
pany, next the Urbana Wine Company, and a few others 
of less importance. The champagne is made by the 
long or French process. | 

The varieties grown and in quantity in the order 
named are Concord, Catawba, Delaware, Isabella, Clin- 
ton, Ives, Diana, Elvira, Iona, Eumelan, Niagara, Nor- 
ton, Moore’s Diamond, and many others in small quan- 
tities. A large percentage of the finer kinds, such as 
Delaware, Iona, Elvira, Eumelan and Isabella, form the 
basis for the champagne cuveé ; Concord and Catawba 
are for table, and the balance for still wines. 

Prior to 1889 there had been but two seasons that the 
crop was materially impaired by any disease or insect. 
The season of 1889, being very wet, especially in June, 
developed mildew or brown rot quite generally, and in 
some places to an alarming extent, with a sprinkling of 


100 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


black rot; and later came powdery mildew. Ordinary 
mildew, brown and black rot are too well understood to 
need any comment or description. Powdery mildew 
does not entirely destroy either foliage or fruit, but im- 
pairs growth and ripening. Henry O. Fairchild, a 
prominent grower, made the first experiment with what 
is known as the Bordeaux mixture, for the above-men- 
tioned disease, and met with gratifying success. Other 
growers soon followed and last year spraying with this 
mixture became almost universal, and the result was an 
average full crop. 

This mixture is applied in the form of a spray made 
by a peculiarly constructed nozzle under pressure. 
Large and comparatively level vineyards use horse power, 
others hand pump—‘‘ knapsack sprayer.” The first 
spraying is done when the shoots are from six to eight 
inches long, again immediately after blossoming, and 
later as deemed necessary. It should be done carefully ~ 
and all parts of the vine covered. The mixture forms a 
thin covering, on which the spores make no impression 
and die. The mixture consists of eight pounds of sul- 
phate of copper, six pounds of unslaked lime and forty- 
five to fifty gallons of water. Many who cultivate table 
grapes, for the late spraying substitute two quarts of 
aqua ammonia in place of the lime, as this solution does 
not stain the fruit. There is also a slight sprinkling of 
anthracnose, usually found at or near the mouth of 
gullies, which are numerous on the shores of all Central 
New York lakes, and where the surface is quite wet. 
Up to this time its ravages have been slight; the Bor- 
deaux mixture seems to check it materially. 

Of insects we have but few; while we have phylloxera, 
yet the severe winters keep it in check, and no percepti- 
ble damage has been noticeable. The thrip, a small 
white fly, did some damage to the foliage of Delawares 
and Isabellas, and less upon the Catawba; it has almost 


AND WINE MAKING. 101 


disappeared since the vines have been sprayed. The 
steel beetle is the worst insect we havé; it attacks the 
buds early in the spring, by boring a small hole, and 
eats out the heart. ‘This little insect does its greatest 
damage in vineyards adjoining woods or uncultivated 
fields. The only remedy that has proved effective is 
daubing the buds with a solution of Paris green thick- 
ened somewhat with flour; this covers the bud witha 
thin, varnish-like substance, and the little fellow gets 
sick before he can do much damage. 

The estimate of one ton per acre embraces good, bad 
and indifferent vineyards. A well-cultivated vineyard 
in a good location will yield from three to five tons of 
Concords, two to three tons of Catawbas, one and a half 
to two tons of Delawares. and so on. 


CHAPTER XXII. 


GRAPE GROWING IN THE HUDSON RIVER VALLEY. 
WILLIAM D. BARNS. 


The early settlers of this region found the grape grow- 
ing wild, and transplanted some of the better kinds to 
their gardens, where they ministered to their wants. 
No special progress was noted until 1816, when William 
Prince, of Long Island, brought the Isabella grape from 
the South and propagated it, soon after which it became 
rapidly disseminated in this region. A few years later 
the Catawba was introduced. In 1823 the first attempt 
was made to record the merits of native grapes for cul- 
tivation. In 1846 J. J. Thomas, in his ‘‘ Fruit Cultur- 
ist,” mentioned only six ‘‘American hardy varieties.” 
Excepting the Isabella and Catawba, none of them are 


102 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


grown for market now. Their enormous crops and ex- 
cellent quality made them popular, and ere long nearly 
every residence had its grapevine. In 1853 the Concord 
was brought to public notice, and almost immediately 
found favor. Other varieties were produced from chance 
seedlings and by hybridization, until now specimens of 
probably three hundred varieties may be found in culti- 
vation in this valley. ‘The number considered profitable 
to grow for market is comparatively small and at the 
present time does not exceed twenty. 

The introduction of the Concord in 1853 gave a great 
impetus to grape growing. Its beauty, hardiness, vigor, 
productiveness and quality commended it to the grape 
growers of this region; it soon took a leading place 
among vineyardists, and is now produced in larger quan- 
tities than all the other varieties combined. The Dela- 
ware, from its superior quality, and the high price it 
commanded, was a favorite with many, and is still 
largely grown for market. The Diana, in spite of its 
excellent keeping quality and beautiful appearance, be- 
cause of its lateness in ripening has been discarded. 

As the Rebecca could not be profitably grown on the 
west side of the river, cultivators were anxious to find a 
hardy white grape for market. The Martha was the 
first to be introduced that seemed to fill the bill. This 
variety is still grown to a considerable extent, although 
the Niagara and Pocklington, from their superior ap- 
pearance, are more prized and have been much more 
largely grown in late years. Moore’s Diamond, being 
earlier than either, and quite as attractive in appearance 
as well as of better quality, finds much favor. But since 
its introduction the market demands seem to be more 
for dark colored than light grapes. The Duchess is a 
showy grape of very superior quality, but lacks hardi- 
ness, and its cultivation for market has been nearly 
abandoned, 


AND WINE MAKING. 103 


At present Concord, Champion, Cottage, Brighton, 
Bacchus, Delaware, Elvira, Empire State, Hartford, 
Moore’s Early, Martha, Niagara, Pocklington, Duchess, 
Worden, Wyoming, Red and Ulster comprise nearly all 
the varieties that are grown for market. 


TRAINING THE VINE. 


When grape growing was commenced in this region, 
there was no established method of training the vine. 
The single or half dozen vines that had been grown for 
family use were trained to the side of a building or over 
a large arbor. For field culture the need of a different 
system was imperative. Some tried the European plan 
of short pruning and training to a single stake. The 
difference in the habit of the native and foreign vine 
made this method impracticable. Most growers used 
numerous stakes set in the row of vines. When the 
nature and requirements of the vine were carefully stud- 
ied and this method of training skillfully done, it pro- 
duced good results. Fuller’s *‘Grape Culturist” in 
1864 called attention to his modification of the Huréelae 
plan, which still carries his name. ‘This, however, 
was followed in but few vineyards, as the Kniffin system, 
which had been introduced ten years before, was given 
the preference. 

THE KNIFFIN SysTEM was originated and practiced 
by one of the pioneers of grape growing in the Hudson 
River valley. William Kniffin of Clintondale, after 
‘much consideration, adopted the system of training the 
vine to two wires suspended and stretched, the one about 
three and a half, the other about six feet from the 
ground. A single main stalk is grown from the ground 
to the upper wire. All buds or branches are broken 
from this except four, the growth from which is trained 
to grow along the wires. Usually two are left just below 
each wire, and as each shoot grows it is loosely fastened 


104 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


to the wire, one in each direction from the main stalk, 
forming four arms. The next year each of these arms 
is to be cut back to from four to eight buds, according 
to the vigor of the vine. ‘These shortened arms are to 
be firmly tied to the wire, and shoots springing from 
each bud encouraged to hang down with their clusters 
of growing grapes. | 

This system of training the vine is believed to be the 
most economical, and one of the most successful known. 
It is almost universally used in the Hudson River valley. 
Its methods and merits are being studied, and it is being 
adopted in other sections of the State. 

MopIFICATIONS OF THE KNIFFIN SystEM.—One of 
these is—TZ'he Trunk System, where two stalks are grown 
from root, and two arms trained from the one to the 
lower, and from the other to the upper wire. 

The Umbrella Training,—where the trunk is tied to 
each wire, and two arms with nine to fifteen buds each 
are left at the upper wire, and none suffered to grow at 
the lower one ; these long arms are, near their base, fas- 
tened to the upper wire and then bent down and the top 
fastened to the lower wire. This method finds consid- 
erable favor. 

The Overhead or Arbor Kniffin is another popular 
modification of this system. The overhead arbor is 
formed by spiking cross-bars three feet in length at right 
angles to the row, to posts set in the row of vines, about 
six feet from the ground. Three wires are stretched 
the length of the row, and fastened equidistant on these 
cross-bars. The vine is trained without branches to the 
center wire, and six arms are trained, one in each direc- 
tion on each wire. This method allows working both 
ways with a horse, and the fruit hangs below the foliage, 
and when ripening, becomes more perfectly covered with 
bloom, it is claimed, than when grown by any other sys- 
tem of training. 


ee 
=< 


; 
| 


AND WINE MAKING, 105 


The Cross-Wire System has small posts set by each 
vine ; a single wire runs from post to post in each direc- 
tion six and a half feet from the ground. ‘The trunk of 
the vine is tied to the post, and four arms are trained, 
one along each wire. Lighter posts are required by this 
system than any other, but the posts at the ends of the 
rows have to be braced or anchored. It admits working 
each way with a horse. This system is of recent intro- 
duction, and possesses considerable merit. 


DISEASES AND INSECTS. 


The remarkable health, vigor and productiveness of 
the vine led cultivators to believe that the various dis- 
eases which had made grape growing unprofitable in so 
many other localities would find no place here. Even 
when reports of the ravages of black rot in New Jersey 
reached us, cultivators of large experience, like the late 
A. J. Caywood, believed that our favorable surroundings 
would prevent the disease from causing serious injury here. 

Others believed every precaution to prevent its intro- 
duction and spread should be taken, and kept themselves 
fully informed of the investigations and experiments 
made by the direction of the Commissioner of Agricul- 
ture. Before the black rot made its appearance here, 
several persons had experimented with the Bordeaux 
mixture as a preventive of mildew, and reported results 
to the United States Department of Agriculture. 

In the year 1887 black rot appeared to considerable 
extent in some vineyards in the town of Gardner, Ulster 
Co. The next year the crop of these vineyards was 
nearly destroyed. In 1889 the disease made its appear- 
ance in nearly every part of the valley of the Hudson. 
With the inadequate facilities then possessed for spray- 
ing, many vineyards had small blocks of vines sprayed 
or sprinkled with the Bordeaux mixture. The results 
were uniformly encouraging. 


106 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


During the winter of 1889 the subject of black rot 
and its prevention by spraying was discussed by the 
press, in fruit growers’ associations, and elsewhere. All 
who had experimented the previous year urged all grape 
growers to procure suitable outfits and spray thoroughly 
the coming year. The few who did were richly paid, as 
they saved nearly their entire crop, while those who did 
not, lost from ten to ninety per cent. - 

The experience of 1890 fully demonstrated the value 
of the practice as a preventive of both black rot and 
mildew. One large grower claimed the operation saved 
him one hundred tons of grapes. Instances were com- 
mon where adjoining vineyards showed nearly complete 
destruction by black rot in the unsprayed, and a perfect 
crop where the vines had been sprayed. ‘The foliage of 
Delaware vines, where sprayed, was as healthy and clean 
till frost came, as that of Concords. 

The fact that applications of copper salts will prevent 
other forms of fungus than black rot, makes the grow- 
ing to perfection of many delicate hybrid grapes possible. 
During a season of frequent heavy rains the successful 
treatment of a vineyard is expensive, and in some cases 
almost impossible. 

Anthracnose has made its appearance in many vine- 
yards, but while affecting the vitality of the vine more 
seriously than does black rot, it does not spread so rapidly. 
It yields to an application of a saturated solution of sul- 
phate of iron to the trunk and arms of the vine before 
the buds swell in the spring. 

But few vineyards are damaged by phylloxera. In 
some sections the steel beetle is destructive by eating into 
and destroying the opening bud. Spraying with Paris 
green is done for the destruction of this pest. The rose 
bug, by eating the blossom and embryo grape, is occa- 
sionally very destructive. Hand picking, and jarring 
the insect into a basin of kerosene, in the cool of the 


AND WINE MAKING, 107 


morning, are the rather unsatisfactory methods adopted 
for its destruction. 
Occasionally the grape-leaf hopper, more commonly 
known as thrips, appears in such numbers as to defoliate 
a vineyard and inflict great injury. When the wind 
blows across the rows of vines, on a hot day, millions of 
these may be entrapped by tacking a large sheet of 
heavy paper, smeared with tar, to a light frame carried 
on the leeward side of the row, and suddenly jarring 
_ the vine. The insects rise in a cloud and are carried by 
the wind against the soft tar. 
These named comprise the fungous diseases and 
insect pests that are most prevalent in this region. 
On the whole, the health and productiveness of the 
vine are probably equal to that in any other grape- 
growing section. 


SEASON AND METHOD OF MARKETING. 


From the location and environment.of this region, the 
crop of grapes ripens earlier in it than in any other sec- 
tion of the State. The market requires a good table 
grape. Hitherto the earlier in the season it could be 
_ furnished the higher the price realized. For nearly 
_ twenty years the Champion has been the earliest variety 
that was marketable. Though prolific and handsome, 
the quality is poor, and growers have earnestly sought a 
kind possessing its merits and of better quality. Moore’s 
Early comes nearest to taking its place. Unfortunately, 

_ this variety does not seem adapted to all locations, and 
in some places is a shy bearer. 

The high price paid for early grapes has tempted 
|. many growers to ship grapes before they were fully ripe. 

_ This always has a depressing effect on the market. 
_ Now, profiting by experience, most shippers are careful 
as to the quality as well as the appearance of their fruit 
__ when placed in the market, 


108 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


New York receives the bulk of the crop grown in this 
region. Large shipments are made to Philadelphia, 
Boston, Buffalo, Baltimore, Washington and intermedi- 
ate places. arly in the history of this industry, the 
crates made for carrying strawberries and raspberries 
were used for shipping grapes. New York being a great 
distributing point, buyers for shipping to other places 
' were seriously incommoded by the necessity of returning 
the crates. To obviate this difficulty, baskets holding 
five or ten pounds of grapes were introduced, and soon 
came into quite general use. But as the supply of fruit 
increased, and prices became lower, the cost of carting 
from boat or car to the stores was felt to be a serious 
handicap to the business. Then a cheap crate—non- 
returnable—found favor. At this time crates contain- 
ing eight light tills, and holding forty pounds of grapes 
when filled, are generally used. 

GIRDLING THE VINE. 

According to Prof. L. H. Bailey, ‘‘girdling, or ring- 
ing various fruit trees was certainly practiced by the 
Romans, and the Agricultural Society of France awarded 
a premium to Buchatt about a century and a half ago, 
for a method of girdling the grapevine. * * * The 
first valuable experiments made with ringing the grape- 
vine in America was begun in 1877 at the Massachusetts 
Agricultural College, and the practice has been em- 
ployed more or less continuously since that time. * * * 
Girdling usually hastens maturity and increases size of 
the fruit; it is supposed to lessen the quality of the 
fruit; its effect upon the vine has not been clearly de- 
termined.” Mr. John Burroughs, who resides in this 
grape region, says: ‘‘My opinion of the practice of 
girdling grapevines is, that on the whole it is poor busi- 
ness.” * * * «Tf all take to girdling, where is the 
advantage? It is like the crowd all getting up on chairs 
at the show.” | 


< tt ig inne i 


AND WINE MAKING. 109 


Girdling, to hasten the ripening of grapes for market, 
was commenced in the neighborhood of Highland about 
thirteen years ago. The operation consists in removing 
a ring of bark nearly an inch broad from the arm or 
branch of the last year’s wood. The practice has continued 
since, aud been adopted by many persons. Great dis- 
cretion and care are requisite to make the operation 4 
success. ‘he quality of some varieties is ruined by it, 
Heavily loaded vines, if girdled, never ripen their fruit. 
Feeble growing vines are seriously injured by the opera- 
tion. Crapes of delicate flavor teem to suffer most in 
loss of quality when the vine is operated on. When 
judiciously done it has doubiless increased the net re- 
turns of the grower. But it is not probable or desirable 
that the practice should be universally .dopted. 


WINE MAKING. 


_ The price realized for table grapes until recently kept 
the best quality out of the wine mekers’ hands, except 
an limited quantities, 

The cause of viticulture has been materially favored 
by the labors of the late A. J. Caywood of Marlboro, 
Dr. W. A. M. Culbert of Newburg, and James H. 
Ricketts, formerly of Newburg and now of Washington, 
D. ©. In this region especially hcs their influence been 
felt, while ‘the valzable varieties vsiginated by them are 
known all over the United States. 


110 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER XXIII. 


VITICULTURE IN SOUTHWEST MISSOURI. 


HERMANN JAEGER, NEOSHO, MO. 


When locating in Southwest Missouri, the first wild 
grapes to attract my attention were those of the Lince- 
cumit type of Vitis estivalis, popularly known as 
‘‘Summer” grapes here, and ‘‘ Post Oak” grapes in 
Texas. Many of these I selected and cultivated. Some 
had produced heavy loads of fruit in their wild state, 
blooming near staminate vines of their species, while 
under cultivation they proved shy bearers. Others pro- 
duced well in the vineyard, and of these I still cultivate 
some, like Neosho, Racine, Nos. 32, 52, 13 and 43. 

Nos. 13 and 43 are as large as Ives and Concord re- 
spectively, and while no better than these in quality, I 
valued them as extremely hardy and prolific late grapes, 
remaining sound where the Concord crop was entirely 
ruined by black rot. 

Vitis rupestris is another native of the Southwest 
that attracted my attention, on account of the purity of 
its grapes and their freedom from rot and mildew. 
Some of these I sent to France to be tried as stocks 
able to resist phylloxera. Their adaptation to the thin- 
nest, dryest and stoniest soils; their hardiness, superior 
to all other vines, and their easy propagation, made them 
very popular for grafting stocks. Even for the creation 
of Franco-American hybrids our French co-laborers pre- 
fer the rupestris to other native species, because it is 
free from any of the peculiar American flavors so objec- 
tionable to those who formed their taste on European 
grapes. 

While searching for rupestris vines to export, I selected 
some with large fruit to cultivate. Even these are only 


ie tt Me, eee 
’ 


AND WINE MAKING. 111 


similar to acurrant in size of bunch and grape, and 
therefore can not become popular. Yet repeatedly I 
was glad to have these vines, covered with small bunches 
capable of yielding a good claret, when nearly all other 
grapes were destroyed by rot and mildew. ‘Thanks to 
spraying with copper solutions, both black rot and mil- 
dew are now under our control, and we can do better 
than grow rupestris grapes. ‘To create new varieties of 
extreme hardiness and to purify the flavor of our varie- 
ties, the infusion of rupestris blood will remain of prime 
importance. 

The following I consider my best seedlings and hybrids: 

Jaeger’s No. 70 is a seedling of my lincecumit No. 43, 
crossed with a male vine of Vitis rupestris. Most hardy 
and productive ; black, bunch and berry as large as Ives 
but less compact ; it colors early and ripens ten to twelve 
days before Norton. When fully ripe it has some of the 
peculiar Jincecumii flavor, which remains in its wine, a 
very dark, rich claret, much admired here for its 


“**fruity ” aroma. 


Jaeger’s No. 72 is of the same parentage as 70. Foli- 
age and wood retain more of the lincecumii character 
than 70 (which resembles rupestris more). Grape black, 
with pale bloom, and of Concord size. Bunch very com- 
pact, of medium size. Ripens just before or with Nor- 
ton, and, like 70, hangs long to vine. Flavor pure like 
rupestris, sweet, a fine table grape, yielding a claret of 
great purity and good color. 

Jaeger’s No. 100. A seedling of Elvira, as large as 
Concord in bunch and berry. Oolor yellow to grayish 
pink when very ripe. Quality and flavor similar to 
Catawba; ripens with Delaware. Vine of Jabrusca 
character; very hardy and productive. Uses: table 


and white wine. Liable to crack when ripe, like Elvira. 


This No. 100 I crossed with a male rupestris, and also 
with a male vine of rupestris X cinerea. The first cross 


112 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


gives early and the second late grapes of extreme hardi- 
ness, fine quality-and pure taste. A number of these 
fruited, some twice. It is too soon to select the best. 

Among the first hybrids I produced over fifteen years 
ago are Nos. 50 and 56. ‘They are crosses between a 
large Summer or Post Oak grape and the delicious, but 
very tender Herbemont. In quality, character of fruit 
and vine, they have a close family resemblance with 
various similar crosses evolved by Prof. T. V. Munson 
of Denison, Texas. 

Besides being very liable to rot and mildew, I found 
Nos. 50 and 56 entirely too tender to stand our extreme 
climate, and therefore never propagated or even pub- 
licly mentioned them. 

Of late years I find that spraying not only keeps them 
free from rot and mildew, but that likewise (preserving 
their foliage healthy till frost) it helps to ripen their 
wood a great deal better. Thus these vines, which used 
to suffer in our mildest winters, last January stood un- 
protected and unharmed a temperature of 22° below 
zero. ‘Therefore I now consider Nos. 50 and 56 most 
valuable grapes, especially so because they mature later 
than Norton, are fine keepers, and may easily be made 
to prolong our grape season from six to eight weeks. 

No. 50 is a very compact, medium-sized bunch with 
medium-sized grapes ; black, with light bloom ; as sweet — 
and pure and sprightly as Herbemont, 

No. 56 is nearly of Concord size in bunch and berry. 
Light Catawba color with white bloom. A sweet, pure, 
beautiful and delicious grape, though not having all the 
Herbemont sprightliness of No. 50. Both will no doubt 
make fine white wine. These, as well as Mr. Munson’s 
new grapes of similar origin and hardiness, I now con- 
sider the most exquisite late varieties we can grow in 
the Middle and Southern States. 


AND WINE MAKING. 113 


TREATMENT FOR MILDEW AND ROT. 


An address to the Missouri State Horticultural Society. 
BY HERMANN JAEGER. 


Black rot and Peronospora, or downy mildew, have 
been the two most formidable foes of American grape- 
vines. The ravages of these microscopic mushrooms 
discouraged and disheartened nearly all our grape grow- 
ers. The few men that kept their vineyards, came to 
the conclusion that profit from grape growing could not 
be expected, except, perhaps, with very few varieties resist- 
ing rot and mildew better than most others. 

Nothing, therefore, could have pleased us better than 
the fact established after three years’ experimenting with 
copper remedies, under the direction of our National 
Department of Agriculture ;—the fact, I say, that not 
only mildew (as had already been proved in France), but 
likewise the still more fatal pest of black rot, are under 
our control, and can both be entirely prevented by cor- 
rect spraying with Bordeaux mixture or other copper ~ 
solutions. This was in 1890. Our experience in 1891 
fully verified this claim. The season of 1892, with an 
extremely wet spring and early summer, proved that by 
spraying we can succeed in most unfavorable years, not 
only with Norton, Ives and Perkins, but with Rogers’ 
Hybrids, Delaware, Triumph, and the long list of varie- 
ties that, even in fair seasons, used to be a mere source 
of disappointment. 

Last summer it required from five to eight sprayings 
to keep our vines free from rot and mildew, while three 
to five applications are quite sufficient in ordinary sea- 
sons. A neighbor of ours who postponed his spraying, 
because the incessant rains would be sure to wash off the 
solution, made almost as complete a failure as another 
neighbor who argued spraying was useless until dry 
weather had set in, because ‘‘the rain would wash away 

8 


114 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


all rot and mildew from the fruit.” Just such mistakes 
as these are to blame for all failures in spraying grape- 
vines, for wherever fruit and foliage are covered with a 
copper solution, the germination of the spores or seeds 
of the fungi causing rot and mildew is impossible. But 
just as impossible it is for any spray to be of the least 
benefit, if applied after this germination has taken place. 
When by naked eye we can discover the least trace of 
mildew or rot, it proves that we should have commenced 
spraying at least ten days before. 

Bordeaux mixture and the ammoniacal solution of 
carbonate of copper, dre now almost exclusively used. 
For the last two years I have treated about eight acres 
of vines with one, and eight acres with the other solu- 
tion, and both with equally good success. I use a 
Eureka knapsack sprayer with Vermorel nozzle. In va- 
rious parts of my vineyards I dig holes to collect rain 
water, and at these holes fill the knapsack, adding the 
needed proportion of ammonia solution or concentrated 
Bordeaux mixture. Thus water carrying is reduced to a 
minimum. A Bordeaux mixture of one and one-half 
pounds of bluestone to twenty-two gallons of water is 
just as effective as the stronger solution formerly used. 
This summer I allowed the Bordeaux mixture to settle, 
using only the clear liquid for spraying. This avoids 
clogging of the nozzle, makes spraying easier, and keeps 
the fruit clean, without impairing the effectiveness of 
the spray. To the sediment water may be added again, 
and the bluish whitewash used for sprinkling strawber- 
ries, melons, potatoes, tomatoes, etc. 

Finally, I claim one more benefit for spraying; it 
greatly improves the hardiness of our vines. Ability to 
resist low temperature mostly depends on the perfect 
ripening of the wood. ‘The fruit, canes and buds can 
only ripen while the foliage is sound. Well-sprayed 
vines keep their leaves perfect till killed by a hard frost, 


AND WINE MAKING, 115 


and thus reach the highest possible degree of hardiness. 
On the 19th of last January the thermometer at the 
United States fish hatchery at Neosho, fell to 22° below 
zero. ‘This was sufficient to kill nearly all the fruit 
buds on unsprayed Norton or Cynthiana vines, while all 
those that had been well sprayed the summer before, 
brought a fine crop. I mention the Norton because it is 
perhaps less affected by mildew than any other vine. 
Varieties subject to mildew show still more clearly the 
benefit of spraying. European hybrids like Triumph, 
Campbell, Brilliant, Goethe, Carman, and many others, 
produced fine crops after standing last winter unpro- 
tected. Still more agreeably was I surprised to get 
grapes from my Nos. 50 and 56, two varieties produced 
about fifteen years ago by crossing the delicious, but 
very tender Herbemont, with one of our large wild Sum- 
mer grapes (Vitis estivalis, type lincecumii), usually 
called Post Oak grapes in Texas. 

Nos. 50 and 56 are fine grapes and our very latest vari- 
eties, but proved too tender to be valuable, and there- 
fore were never propagated. Now] consider them about 
as promising as any grapes we have, and I dare say that 
in quality and appearance they closely resemble the vari- 
eties Prof. T. V. Munson has originated by similar crosses. 

Among that splendid list of twenty-nine new grapes, 
by far the finest collection ever offered in America, now 
being introduced by T. V. Munson of Denison, Texas, 
eight of the most exquisite varieties are crosses of Herbe- 
mont on wild Post Oak or Summer grapes of Texas and 
Southwest Missouri. Mr. Munson, with his character- 
istic conscientiousness, recommends these for the South 
only. Iam glad to be able to state that four of them 
were tried here and have stood 22° below zero, as well as 
Nos. 50 and 56. It seems safe therefore, to conclude 
that with good spraying these Southern grapes will prove 
hardy enough for the latitude of Central Missouri, Mr. 


116 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Munson’s other grand acquisitions will succeed far north 
of Missouri. His ‘‘America,” for example, is a seedling 
of Jaeger’s No. 70, containing the blood of our large 
native summer grape crossed with Vitis rupestris, and 
consequently surpasses in hardiness any American vine 
heretofore cultivated. Mr. Munson’s great work insures 
an immense improvement in the quality of our grapes, 
and spraying with copper solutions has made their yield 
so much more certain, that we can confidently look for- 
ward to a great revival of American viticulture. 


CHAPTER XXIV. 


VIEWS OF A VETERAN, 


SAMUEL MILLER, BLUFFTON, MO. 


The following are among the newer varieties of grapes 
which appear to be promising in this section : 

EMPIRE STATE (white).—A strong grower, bears well, 
perfectly hardy. Bunch large, long; berry above medi- 
um, round, sweet, and of excellent quality. 

Moore’s Diamonpd (white).—Vine strong, hardy, 
healthy and productive; bunch and berry Jarge; when 
ripe almost translucent; best quality of any white grape 
we have 

MILLER’s GOLDEN BeEauty (white).—Vine all right; 
bunch and berry above medium; quality good; very 
handsome. 

The above varieties are all the white ones I care to 
grow; they fill the bill. 

Wooprurrs Rep (red) is a good grower; bunches 
quite large; berries of the largest size. Very showy 
and good - 


ee OO OO ee ee ee ee ee eee 


AND WINE MAKING. 117 


VERGENNES (red) has fruited just enough here to show 
that it is a valuable one. Bunch and berry medium. 

BriguHtTon (red). A large bunch and berry, above 
medium. Superior quality, but the vine is not fully 
hardy. 

THE Eaton (black) has been highly spoken of as to 
_ size of bunch and berry, but the quality is said to be poor. 

GARBER (black).—Hardy and productive. Bunch 
and berry a little below medium, of good quality, and 
will undoubtedly make an excellent dark-red wine. 
Among the earliest. 

Mineo (black).—A small bunch and berry, but ripens 
before any other. Makes a heavy, very dark wine; can 
write with the juice and it would be taken for ink. 

Hero (black).—A sport of the Concord, nearly double 
the size and of fair quality. 

There are others on trial, but as they have not fruited 
here I cannot say how they will do. 


CHAPTER XXV. 


GRAPE CULTURE IN MISSISSIPPI, 


8. M. TRACY, MISSISSIPPI EXPERIMENT STATION, STARKVILLE. 


Grape culture in Mississippi has been developed almosé 
wholly within the last ten years, and is now increasing 
more rapidly there than is any other one branch of fruit 
growing. In the northeastern part of the State, from 
Booneville to Corinth, are many large vineyards, and in 
the region about Starkville, in the central part of the 
State, are several covering from ten to fifty acres each, 


while from along the Gulf coast large quantities of grapes 


118 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


and small amounts of wine are shipped annually. The 
long growing season in this State enables the vines to 
make fully double the amount of wood which they can 
make in the Northern States, or even in Missouri, and 
the winters are so mild that the wood is never injured 
by cold. The black rot, the downy mildew and the 
powdery mildew are almost unknown, though the ‘‘ripe 
grape rot” (Melanconium fuligineum) is often injurious 
to the late-ripening shipping varieties, though it does not 
attack the early-ripening market sorts, nor those of the 
rupestris and lincecumit types recently introduced by 
Munson. In the central part of the State, Champion 
and other early sorts are ready for market from July 5 
to 10, while from the Coast region they may be shipped 
from a week to ten days earlier. 

Among the more popular varieties for market are 
Champion, Delaware, Herbemont, Ives, Moore’s Early, 
Niagara and Perkins. For table use Brilliant, Delaware, 
Gold Coin, Green Mountain, Hermann Jaeger, Moyer, 
Mrs. Nellie Munson and Rommell are among the more 
popular sorts. Wine making is a rapidly growing indus- 
try along the Gulf coast, where the Scuppernong varie- 
ties grow.to perfection. At Biloxi, Bay St. Louis, and 
other points, several French colonies have been located 
and are planting the Scuppernong quite largely, and are 
said to be making wine of excellent quality. 

The“horizontal trellis has given us better satisfaction 
than has any other which we have ever seen, and is the 
one which we recommend for general use. In making 
it, the posts are set as for the vertical trellis, the tops 
are sawed off square at five feet from the ground, and a 
crosspiece of 2x4, two feet long, is laid on the top of 
each, and nailed at right angles to the direction of the 
row. ‘Three No. 12 wires are stapled to these cross- 
pieces, one directly over the post, and the others one 
inch from the ends of the crosspieces, The cost of mar 


AND WINE MAKING, 119 


terial is the same as for the vertical trellis, with the ad- 
dition of the crosspieces, which cost one cent each, 
Our reasons for preferring the horizontal trellis are, that 
it makes pruning much more simple and easy, that it 
keeps the lower part of the vine free from sprouts and 
branches which would interfere with cultivation, that it 
affords much greater protection to the growing and 
ripening fruit, that it holds the fruit where it can be 
easily reached in spraying, and that it gives partial im- 
munity from the attacks of fungous diseases. It is a 
well-known fact -that very few fungi can germinate ex- 
cepting in the presence of moisture. With the horizon- 
tal trellis, nearly all of the fruit is found hanging below 
the wires, where it is protected from rain and dew by 
the leaves, which are almost wholly above the wires, and 
so the spread of disease is, to a large extent, held in 
check. The overshadowing leaves also protect the fruit 
from sun scald, from which many of the thin-skinned 
varieties suffer severely. Whatever style of trellis may 
be used, it should always run north and south, so that _ 
the fruit may be protected from the sun during the hot- 
test hours of the day. 


CHAPTER XXVI. 


‘ a i 
an ; e - 
GRAPE CULTURE IN NEW mexioo, ‘/iitavia 
N. SPATCIER, LAS CRUCES, N. M. 


An active experience in the vineyard for the past 
seven years has thoroughly convinced me of the para- 
mount value of the Mission grape. It is hardy, requires 
less labor and attention, and is productive. Brought 
here by Jesuit missionaries 400 years ago (whence its 


120 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


name), I believe that a cutting from it to-day will pro. 
duce as rank and healthy a growth as in its earliest days. 


In the early days of my experience, owing to imposi- 


tions and accidents in refilling vacant places i in my vine- 
yard and in enlarging it, I found vines of numerous 
sorts, such as Muscat of Alexandria, Rose of Peru, and 
others, mixed with my Missions. What at first seemed 
a matter of regret was later one of congratulation, for 
wherever the vines were mixed, there the fruit was better, 
with larger clusters and berries, and a larger aggregate 
of crop. I attribute this to the cross fertilization, the 
workings of which were effectively aided by my Italian 
honey bees, of which I keep twenty-five colonies. I 
would not, for $500 per annum, deprive my orchards 
and vineyards of the codperation of my bees. 

I practice close pruning, never leaving more than one 
or two buds on a spur, although three may be left if it 
is desired to build up a young vine. Leaving more will 
increase the crop for the season, but is apt to impair 
permanently the vitality and productiveness of the vine. 

The wine-making industry is yet in its infancy here. 
With a proper selection of grapes, we can have the best 
of wine. Among these is the native early Muscatelle, 
which makes one of the finest and most aromatic of 
wines, and is especially useful for blending with other 
wines to add to their bouquet. The Black Burgundy 
grape is also an excellent kind for mixing with the Mis- 
sion grape and for adding color to lighter wines from 
other grapes. 


a 


_ Se Tr lhl eee 


AND WINE MAKING. 121 


CHAPTER XXVIL. 


VITICULTURE IN SOUTHERN TEXAS, 
F. M. HALBEDL, SAN ANTONIO. 


Texas is just beginning to comprehend the importance 
and vast possibilities of viticulture within her borders. 
Seven years ago I contemplated a visit to California with 


_ a view to locating there, but changed my mind and trav- 


eled instead through Texas, gathering information and 
examining the soil. I found what I wanted along the 
Southern Pacific railroad, near Harwood, nine miles east 
of Luling, in Gonzales county. I bought land at $10 an 
acre and planted a vineyard and an orchard. The first 
year I set out 10,000 cuttings, nearly all of which took 
root and made luxuriant growth; since that I kept on 
enlarging it from year to year. The soil is partly light, 
partly dark, sandy loam, covered with Post oak, Black- 
Jack and hickory timber, and having a clay subsoil at_ 
moderate depths varying from eighteen inches to three 
feet. 

My original intention was to raise grapes for wine, and 
I therefore planted chiefly Herbemont, Black Spanish, 
Black Eagle, Black July and Concord, all of which do 
well in Texas. But I soon discovered it to be more 
profitable to raise table grapes, and therefore imported 
from Newcastle, Cal., the leading California varieties 
for a trial. Of these I determined upon five as having 
given the best results during three successive years. 
They are the Fontainebleau, which begins to ripen about 
the 24th of June, and forms perfect bunches and berries 
free from disease; the Flaming Tokay, which makes 
immense bunches, and berries as large as my El Paso 
plums; Malaga, Black Prince and Black Morocco. I 
sent specimens of my Malaga to my brother-in-law, who 


122 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


at that time owned a fruit ranch near Newcastle, Cali- 
fornia, and he pronounced them superior to his own in 
compactness and flavor. I propose to raise the above- 
named varieties exclusively, feeling full assurance of 
success. I have, so far, supplied the market of San 
Antonio with my grapes, realizing twelve and a half 
cents per pound, but am confident of obtaining better 
prices in Northern markets when I begin to ship by the 
carload. The shipping season extends from June 24 to 
- August 7, when there is no California grape in sight, 
while the El Paso grapes from the Rio Grande region 
are just beginning to come in, giving us, therefore, the 
best opportunities to monopolize the market. ‘The yield 
of some varieties is enormous. For example, the Black 
Spanish (Lenoir) yielded, without irrigation, during the 
last two (dry) years, from 20 to 50 large bunches per 
vine (vines 12 feet apart and trained on three wires) ; 
next comes Herbemont, also a prolific bearer and safer 
than the first, being immure from all disease, while the 
first, in wet years, shows signs of black rot. Wet years, 
though, are a-rarity. Of late, there have been many 
vineyards started in my vicinity for wine-making pur- 
poses, also around Luling and other places. In fact, 
throughout Central and Southwestern Texas down to 
Corpus Christi on the Gulf, both soil and climate are 
eminently adapted to viticulture, requiring no irrigation, 
as the rainfall during winter and part of spring is suffi- 
cient and the clay holds moisture long enough to insure 
the crop. 

I have also made wine, which I sell at one dollara 
gallon, but intend to abandon that branch except for 
home use. My wines are made from the pure grape 
juice, without the addition of sugar, water or anything 
else, and are almost too alcoholic for my taste. Our 
grapes contain much more sugar than the Californie 
grapes now sold here, which taste watery. 


PEERS POET 


AND WINE MAKING. 123 


OHAPTER XXVIIL 


ON THE RIO GRANDE, 


CHARLES W. WILSON, LAREDO, 


The grape industry in this section is in a compara- 
tively early stage of development as yet, although suffi- 
cient progress has been made to establish its adaptability 
to the soil, climate and seasons, and in the early ripen- 
ing of the grape to give it precedence o. + any other 
section of the United States. 

‘The varieties mostly grown are the Muscat of Alexan- 
dria, Tokay, Black Morocco, Rose of Peru, Black Ham- 
burg and Zinfindal. These are enumerated in the order 
of the number of acres devoted to each, although the 
Black Morocco is gaining in popularity as a profitable 
shipping grape on account of its heavy yield. The 
above-named grapes ripen in succession, from July 1 to 
December 1. The Muscat is ready for market usually 
about the middle of June, and some other varieties ma- 
ture as early as the latter part of May. 

The vines show a prodigious growth, but irrigation is 
necessary to their culture, as the summers are long and 
dry. The water is raised from the Rio Grande river by 
steam pumps. On account of the cheapness of coal and 
wood, this proves to be an economical method of hand- 
ling the water. No particular diseases of the vine have 
been made manifest thus far. A small fly has attacked 
isolated vines in places, causing the leaf to turn brown 
and present a mottled appearance. The area of vine- 
yards at this time aboat Laredo is about 175 acres, and 
many more acres will be planted. 

The Thompson’s Seedless grape has recently been in- 
troduced, but has not reached bearing age yet. Much 


124 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


hope is expressed that it will prove excellently adapted 
to this locality. Altogether the culture of grapes prom- 
‘ises to occupy an extensive and profitable field in South- 
ern Texas. 


CHAPTER XXIX. 
fT. Ve MUNSON’S NEW VARIETIES. 


DENISON, TEXAS, Feb. 21, 1894. 
Pror. Gro. HUsMANN. 

My Dear S1r: In accordance with your request, I 
select from among my published and tested varieties of 
grapes the following, which have received the commenda- 
tion from critical disinterested parties in greater degree, 
perhaps, than others in my numerous collection, and give 
short, accurate descriptions of them, as requested by 

ou. They ripen in the succession here named, the first, 
rilliant, ripening here early in July, the last in 
September. 
Yours truly, 
T. V. MUNSON. 


VARIETIES. (Flowers all perfect.) 


Brini1ant.—A seedling of Lindley pollinated with 
Delaware, originated in 1883. Season of leafing out, 
medium; leaf large; sheds foliage early. Flowers at 
Denison, Texas, first week in May. Growth good; 
healthy ; attacked by downy mildew about the same as 
Delaware; anthracnose none; black rot little more than 
Delaware. Appears to endure cold equally with Dela- 
ware, and drouth as well as Rogers’ Hybrids. Inclined 
to overbear; needs short pruning; cuttings root well. 
Size of cluster medium to large, cylindrical, often shoul- 


ee ee re ae 
rie 


—_— 


AND WINE MAKING, 125 


dered, fairly compact. Berry persistent, large, spher- 
ical; bright currant red at first, in ripening, becoming 
bronzy red at full maturity, with covering of white 
bloom. Skin thin, tough, pleasant to the taste; pulp 
juicy, tender; flavor very agreeable, sprightly and pure; 
very sweet; seeds one to three, medium. It has re- 
ceived high praise at the hands of critical testers at the 
Georgia Experiment Station, also in New Jersey, New 
York, Ohio, Michigan, Kentucky, Missouri, Texas, etc. 

RoMMELL.—Parentage, Elvira pollinated by Triumph, 
originated in 1885. Season of leafing, flowering, ripen- 
ing and shedding leaves a few days later than Brilliant. 
Leaf of medium size, coarse, sharp teeth, not lobed, of 
good substance. Resists mildew and rot well; growth 
good ; short jointed; as hardy in cold and drouth as the 
best of Rogers’; overbears unless pruned short ; cuttings 
root with ease. Cluster medium, cylindrical, often with 
shoulder half as large as main cluster; compact; very 
heavy, proportional to bulk. Berry persistent, round 
or slightly oblate, large if well grown; yellowish green 
when ripe, without bloom ; skin very thin though tough, 
much less inclined to crack than Elvira and its seed- 
lings; pulp very tender and exceedingly juicy and 
sprightly, with fine, pure flavor; ranking as best when 
well grown. Seed few, small, separating readily. It is 
a splendid near-by market grape, but will not endure 
long carriage so well as Brilliant. Very promising for a 
delicate, white, light table wine. 

AmERIOA.—A seedling of H. Jaeger’s No. 70 (now 
named T. V. Munson), which is Mr. Jaeger’s best hy- 
brid of V. lincecumii with V. rupestris, both natives of 
Southwest Missouri. Produced in 1885. Leafs out and 
flowers late, and holds foliage late; ripens fruit about 
with Concord ; growth vigorous ; neither mildew nor rot 
yet observed on leaf or fruit. Endures severe and sud- 
den cold with impunity, and heat and drouth weli; 


126 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


fully resistant to phylloxera; prolific; joints of medium 
length ; cuttings grow with great ease. Cluster medium 
to large, conical, compact enough, but not crowded; 
perry persistent, round, medium to large, jet black; 
skin thin, delicate, yet not inclined to crack; pulp ten- 
der, juicy, pure, with characteristic flavor, and exceed- 
ing rich in violet coloring matter; rich in wine proper- 
ties. Hangs on well, and finally dries into a fair black 
raisin. Seeds three to five, small, slender. For a 
very dark red wine, this grape appears to have great 
possibilities. 

R. W. Munson.—Hybrid; mother a very large-ber- 
ried V. lincecumit, of Grayson County, Texas. Pol- 
linated with Triumph, originated in 1887. Leafs out, 
flowers, ripens fruit and sheds leaves late, shortly after 
Concord ; growth strong, very vigorous, and drouth re- 
sisting; little attacked by mildew or rot. Bunch en- 
dures sudden changes of temperature better than Con- 
cord, but vine will not endure such hard winters, yet it 
appears hardier than Rogers’ Hybrids; well suited to 
the variable Southwestern climate; cuttings root quite 
well. Cluster medium to large, cylindrical, shouldered, 
properly compact; berry persistent, large, coal black 
with little or no bloom; skin thin, tough; pulp tender, 
juicy, with very agreeable pure flavor, pronounced by many 
persons, in a critical test, not knowing the name or ori- 
gin of variety, far better than Concord ; juice red; seeds 
few, small.’ A variety well worthy of extensive trial. 

BrEAcon.—Parentage V. lincecumti, Northern Texas, 
having large cluster and berry, pollinated with Concord. 
Produced in 1887. Growth strong; very healthy, en- 
during drouth and cold very well, and resistant in a 
large degree to all maladies; cuttings root well. Leafs 
out late, holds foliage very late; leaf large, of fine sub- 
stance ; flowers a few days later than Concord and ripens 
with it, but will hang on much longer. Clusters very 


ls | ee Se a 


= 


AND WINE MAKING, 127 


large, cylindrical, often having a short shoulder. Berry 
persistent, rather larger than Concord; black, with less 
bloom; skin rather thin, tough, underlaid with abun- 
dant dark-red juice; pulp more tender than in Concord, 
freeing the two to four medium seeds easily; quality 
purer and finer than Concord, yet having a degree of its 
flavor, without the earthy taste of that variety, and hay- 
ing a faint Concord odor, which is quite agreeable. 
Altogether, the appearance and quality are superior to 
Concord, and its carrying and keeping qualities much 
better. It promises to succeed over a wide extent of 
country, and to be one of ‘‘the grapes for the million.” 
It might be said truly of this, that it is Concord im- 
proved in both vine and fruit, with far better adaptation 
to the South 

DEticious.—Parentage, the same mother as Bea- 
con, pollinated with Herbemont. Produced in 1887. 
Growth very vigorous and healthy, well adapted to a 
hot, dry country, yet endures cold much better than 
Herbemont. More resistant to black rot than Herbe- 
mont, otherwise very healthy; cuttings root fairly well, 
about equally with Herbemont. Leafs out late and re- 
tains foliage very late, but matures its wood well; leaf 
of medium size, deeply three to five lobed, giving a very 
characteristic appearance; joints short; very prolific. 
Cluster medium to large, conical, compact but not. 
crowding; berry persistent, medium; the largest Post 
Oak X Herbemont yet produced by me; black; skin 
thin and tough; pulp melting almost equally with Her- 
bemont, with a delicious, refreshing, vinous flavor, about 
best. Seeds small, one to three. Promising for table, 
market, and especially for a light colored red wine of 
much body. Name was suggested by Mr. H. Jaeger, in 
describing the quality as ‘‘ delicious.” 

CARMAN.—Parentage V. lincecumti (Post Oak grape 
No. 1 of my finding in Grayson County, Texas), polli- 


128 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


nated with Triumph. Produced in 1885. Growth very 
vigorous and healthy, enduring drouth and cold to a 
high degree, and resisting maladies almost perfectly ; cut- 
tings root readily; joints of medium length ; leaves of 
good size and substance, sometimes shallow three-lobed, 
with serrate margin. Leafs out and flowers late, after 
Concord; holds foliage late; ripens wood perfectly; 
fruit ripens about a week after Concord, and hangs on a 
long time, improving in quality; very prolific. Cluster 
large to very large, conical, compact, with one, two or 
three lobes ; very handsome, with strong, long peduncle ; 
berry medium or above, persistent to a remarkable de- 
gree; black, little bloom; skin thin but quite tough; 
of agreeable flavor, having little or no coloring beneath ; 
pulp meaty but not tough, moderately juicy, separating 
readily from the small, two to three seeds; quality very 
pure, agreeable and sweet; really rich, and were the 
pulp a little more melting, would rate as about best. 
Dr. W. H. Morse, consulting chemist, who makes a 
specialty of testing, having received a sample of the Car- 
man from a person testing the variety in New Jersey, in 
1893, voluntarily wrote me as follows concerning it: 
‘*Last fall I was given the privilege of examining speci- 
mens of the Carman grape. TI did not know till I found 
your advertisement in the Rural New-Yorker of this 
week that you have the vines for sale. Iam not a con- 
noisseur, but the striking resemblance of the Carman to 
the Saumur grapes, and the excellence of the Saumur 
wines, make for them the highest praise. The Carman 
is a grape of great possibilities. I know nothing of its 
vigor or prolific character; my reference is to the qual- 
ity of the fruit, especially that quality as estimated for 
its wine production. The fruit resembles very closely 
that of the variety from which the best wines of Saumur, 
France, are manufactured ; and its wine should contain 
in nearly the same proportion the substances character: 


AND WINE MAKING. 129 


istic of the clear, sparkling Saumur wine, which is nota- 
ble for having champagne qualities. It is high praise to 
give a grape, that it has champagne possibilities. The 
yalue of the Carman is high-gauged.” 

W. B. Munson.—Parentage V. lincecwmit, of Gray- 
son County, Texas, No. 3, pollinated with Triumph. 
Produced in 1887. Growth vigorous, healthy, well 
adapted to a hot, dry climate. Prolific; cuttings root 
readily ; leafs out and sheds late; flowers a week later 
than Concord; leaves medium to large, handsome and 
substantial ; cluster large, cylindrical, sometimes shoul- 
dered; berry medium, black, persistent; skin thin, 
tough ; red juice beneath ; pulp juicy, melting, sprightly, 
of very fine quality, separating easily from the one to 
three small seeds. In a critical comparison, by many 
persons, was pronounced the best black grape in my 
collection. 

Muerncu.—Parentage Jaeger’s Neosho (a Missouri 
Post Oak grape), pollinated with Herbemont. Very 
late in leafing out, flowering, ripening and shedding 
leaves. Produced in 1887. Growth very vigorous and 
healthy ; well adapted to the South, and endures cold 
better than Herbemont; cuttings root about equally 
well with Herbemont; rather short jointed; leaves 
larger than those of Herbemont, resembling them some- 
what, and of good substance; cluster large, handsome, 
cylindrical, or shouldered; berry dark purple, round, 
little below medium; persistent; skin thin, delicate, 
tough; pulp melting, juicy, very rich and sprightly; 
juice white; promising for a white wine of excellent 
body; seeds few, small. It will probably be preferred 
to Herbemont when better known, and will succeed 
farther north. 

Gotp Corn.—Parentage Oynthiana (Norton), polli- 
nated by Martha. Produced in 1883. Late in leafing, 
flowering and ripening; ripens wood well, and sheds 

9 


130 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


foliage late. Quite resistant to all maladies; season as 
late or later than Catawba; productive; cuttings rather 
difficult to root; cluster medium, cylindrical, or ovoid, 
often with a simple shoulder; fairly compact ; berry 
medium to large, persistent, round, yellow when fully 
ripe; skin thin, tough; pulp rather tough, about same 
as Concord ; juicy, mild, pleasant, very sweet, a trace of 
Labrusca odor and flavor; hardly sprightly enough for 
a fastidious taste, yet liked well by most persons. It 
takes well in market, owing to its rich, yellowish color ; 
seeds rather small and few. It carries well, and isa 
very certain cropper. It is thought that it will produce 
a really good white wine of good keeping qualities. 

FERN Munson.—Parentage Post Oak No. 1 X Tri- 
umph, produced in 1885, from same lot of seed as the 
Carman. Very vigorous and healthy. Very late in leaf- 
ing out, flowering, ripening and shedding foliage ; leaf 
large and excellent; cuttings root fairly ; cluster large, 
conical, not very compact; berry large, round, very per- 
sistent ; black, with some bloom ; skin thin, fairly tough, 
with pale red juice beneath; pulp very juicy, tender, 
and sprightly ; best quality ; seeds few and small. Ripens 
in Northern Texas in first part of September, and hangs 
on with improving quality into October. A grape of 
much promise for late market and wine. Sold in mar- 
ket in Denison at same price as the Mission grape, when 
that variety was abundant. 

LAvssEL.—Parentage Post Oak No. 2, of Grayson 
county, Texas, x Gold Coin, 1886. Vine of great vigor 
and perfect health, enduring great extremes of heat and 
cold. Very late in leafing out, flowering and shedding 
foliage. Leaf large and fine; fruit ripens in September 
and holds on to late in October; cluster ovoid, often 
shouldered, very compact, and heavy for its size; berry 
medium to large, round, very persistent; skin thin, but 
very tenacious, rarely cracking, causing the berries to 


AND WINE MAKING, 131 


compress one another; dark purple or nearly black when 
fully ripe, with pale red juice; pulp juicy, tender, and 
possessed of a rare, peculiar, pleasant flavor; sprightly, 
high quality ; seeds small, two to four. The vine is long 
jointed and requires long pruning, to get a full crop; 
it will easily carry all it can be made to set. Prom- 
ising for late market and a fine characteristic wine. 

There are a number more of my varieties that will 
take high rank among these, but these give a fine suc- 
cessien and variety in quality, all good. 


CHAPTER XXX. 


THE CHAUTAUQUA GRAPE BELT, 


GEO. A. MARTIN, CHAUTAUQUA CO., N. Y. 


A glance at a meteorological map of the State of New 
York, on which the amount of precipitation is indicated 
by depth of shading, will reveal a very light streak along 
the southern shore of Lake Erie. That strip, extending 
from a little west of Buffalo nearly to Erie, is the Chau- 
tauqua grape belt. Its southeastern boundary is fixed 
by the so-called ‘‘ Chautauqua ridge,” a hilly range five 
to seven miles from the lake, with an average altitude of 
over seven hundred feet above the level of the lake, and 
about thirteen hundred above the ocean. Lake Erie is 
the shallowest of all the Great Lakes. Its depth is only 
from five to eight fathoms, save around Long Point, 
which juts out like a wing-dam from the northern 
shore, and the channel thus restricted has scoured out 
the bottom to a depth of twelve fathoms. This shallow 
body of water becomes warmed to tepidity in the glow- 


132 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ing summer days, and gives out its heat slowly during 
the autumn and early winter months, then freezes over 
more or less completely. 

The narrow belt of territory, green-walled on one side 
by the Chautauqua ridge, and flanked on the other by 
this immense reservoir, has a climate quite unlike that 
of the region immediately south of it, or of the State at 
large. In spring the chilly airs from the lake usually 
retard the swelling buds until the season is well estab- 
lished, and in autumn the breezes, coming across the 
waters now warmed by summer heats, protect the belt 
from killing frosts. Another climatic peculiarity of the 
region resulting from the proximity of the lake, is the 
limited precipitation of rain and dew. ‘The soil is clay, 
or glacial drift on clay subsoil. The underlying rock is 
soft argillaceous shale. 

It will be readily seen that this region is peculiarly 
well fitted, by soil and climate, for successful grape cul- 
ture. Hixperience has proved it to be so, and flourishing 
vineyards are found throughout its entire length and 
breadth. Grapes were cultivated here more than thirty 
years ago, but it is within the last half of that period 
that the business has expanded to any great commercial 
importance. There are now about twenty-six thousand 
acres of the region planted to vineyards, and the annual 
crop is worth over a million dollars. 

The Concord is universally cultivated as the standard 
sort, far more acreage being devoted to it than to all. 
others together, which are spoken of in a general way as 
“‘varieties.” All the other American grapes which have 
been tried here succeed equally well, but the Concord is 
so eminently successful as a leading market grape that 
it is largely the favorite. Furthermore, it is beyond 
question that the Concords grown in the Chautauqua 
grape belt possess a finer and richer flavor than those 
from other regions. Moore’s Harly is cultivated to some 


 ———————= oe ~—“—— 7 


AND WINE MAKING. 133 


extent, and Champion still less. Worden is increasing in 
favor. Catawba, Wyoming Red, Pocklington, Niagara, 
Agawam, Delaware, Martha, and some others, are grown. 
Of-new varieties the Moyer, Coleraine, Eaton and Dia- 
mond are found in the vineyards of progressive growers. 
Diamond has proved quite satisfactory in flavor, produc- 
tiveness and shipping qualities, but its liability to attacks 
of anthracnose renders faithful spraying necessary to its 
successful cultivation. 

In the early years of grape culture in this region, it 
was the usual practice to set the roots at a distance of 
eight feet, or even less, each way. But in’ the more 
recently planted vineyards, Concord and other strong- 
growing vines are placed nine feet apart both ways. It 
is regarded as desirable to have the rows extend north- 
erly and southerly, with a view to more uniform expo- 
sure tosunshine. ‘The so-called’ arm and renewal system 


of pruning and training is almost invariably employed 


in the Chautauqua grape belt. Posts of chestnut or oak, 
seven or eight feet long, are set, one to every third vine 
in the row. The spade and post-hole augur are little 
used in modern practice. The posts are sharpened at 
one end, and holes made by the aid of an iron bar, ter- 
minating in a long slim cone of iron or steel, which is 
cast on the bar and finished in a lathe. Into the hole 
made by this bar the sharpened end of the post is driven 
by a cast-iron maul weighing from fourteen to seven- 
teen pounds. A recent successful method is to drive at 
least every alternate post the first year after the roots 
are planted, and string only the lower wire. Then all 
of the first year’s growth having been removed, except 
one strong cane, this is cut back to the wire and tied 
firmly. As the shoots start they are all rubbed off 
except the two uppermost, which, in the course of the 
season, grow along and cling to the wire, forming arms 
for the future. The ensuing spring the trellis is com- 


134 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


pleted by supplying the remaining posts and wires. A 
more common practice is to cut the young vines back 
to two or three buds, at the end of the first year’s 
growth, allowing the canes of the second year to trail on 
the ground, an obstruction to the work of ‘cultivation, 
driving posts and stringing wire. The most usual form 
of trellis consists of two No. 9 plain steel wires stapled 
to the posts. Three wires possess many advantages, but 
have not come into general use. Of course it is found 
necessary to keep the vineyards thoroughly cultivated 
and free from weeds and grass. Underdraining is also 
indispensable to the highest success, except on those 
soils composed of gravel drift. Spraying with fungi- 


cides has never come into very general practice in the 


Chautauqua grape belt. The principal reason for this 
is that the vineyards in that favored region have beea 
almost wholly exempt from mildew, black rot and other 
fungous diseases. ‘The Concord vines especially have, 
in this region, always remained perfectly healthy with- 
out spraying or other protection. There is a prevalent 
idea that this comparative immunity is due to the pure 
fresh breezes from Lake Erie. But it doubtless results 
mainly from the restricted precipitation of rain and dew 
through the growing season. Still, this exceptional 
good fortune can hardly be expected to continue forever, 
especially as some new and otherwise desirable varieties 
are not entirely healthy in foliage and fruit, if left with- 
out protective treatment. Wide-awake, progressive vine- 
yardists are providing themselves with spraying outfits, 
and learning to apply preventive treatment for fungus 
and insect enemies. 

The grape harvest begins in September. The grapes 
are picked in crates two feet long, twelve inches wide 
and six inches deep. When filled these are hauled to 
the packing house, where they stand twenty-four hours 
or more, before the grapes are packed in veneer baskets, 


AND WINE MAKING. 135 


For the general crop nine-pound baskets are used, the 
‘‘pony” baskets of four or five pounds being in little 
demand, except for the early or extra sorts. The pack- 
ing house is a feature of every grape farm, some being 
very large and handsome. The work of picking and 
packing furnishes employment to large numbers of men, 
women and boys, many of whom come from a distance. 

The grape harvest is a season of great activity and 
care, mingled with not a little social pleasure. Women 
and girls come singly, in groups, or even in car-loads, 
mostly in pursuance of previous engagements. Between 
this welcome element and the resident population social 
ties are readily formed; balls and other gatherings are 
common, and many an acquaintance is begun which 
afterwards ends in marriage. The great bulk of the 
Chautauqua crop is marketed as table grapes, the amount 
made into wine being a very small proportion. But the 
preparation of unfermented grape juice is increasing, 
and promises to attain commercial importance. 

Many efforts have been put forth to secure effective 
cooperation among the Chautauqua grape growers. 
Several years ago the Chautauqua and Northeast Grape 
Union, embracing the entire belt, was organized. For 
several years it rendered valuable aid in marketing the 
grapes. But it failed to receive hearty and general sup- 
port, and after the close of the season of 1894 it was 
disbanded. Several smaller organizations have since 
been formed, either by voluntary association or legal 
incor poration. 

The output of table grapes from the Chautauqua belt 
is from 40,000 to 50,000 tons yearly. The railroad ship- 
ments of 1891 were 3100 carloads of twelve and a half 
tons each ; those of 1894 were £600 carloads; of 1895, 
notwithstanding the destructive freeze of May, they were 
3200 carloads. The net receipts to growers were 
$1,159,200 in 1894, and $1,209,600 in 1895, the in: 


136 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


creased price more than compensating for the reduced 
amount of the crop. 

The freeze of May 13, 1895, was wholly exceptional, 
nothing like it having occurred in thirty-six years. 
The local meteorological conditions were overcome by 
influences which extended over a large area, both east 
and west. Yet severe as was the freeze, and although 
the grapevines were just putting out their fruit buds, 
they escaped with less damage than many other fruits, 
forest trees, or even meadows. Dwarf pear trees were, 
in some cases, frozen dead within fifty feet of Concord 
grapevines, which survived and bore nearly a full crop 
of fruit. 


PART III. 


AMERICAN WINE MAKING. 


CHAPTER XXXL 
WINE MAKING. 


It can hardly be expected, in a book which only aims 
to be the guide of the average cultivator, and to render 
grape growing and wine making easy for the masses, that 
I should enter into the secrets of the wine dealer and 
chemist, giving elaborate descriptions of the manufacture 
of sparkling wines, and the artificial compounds of the 
so-called sweet wines, vins de liqueur, etc. My chief 
aim is to demonstrate in a simple and plain manner, the 
rules which are necessary to success. Wine making is a 
_ very simple art, which every one with sound common 
sense may acquire, yet it can not be followed successfully 
without a strict observance of these rules. I shall be\as 
concise as possible, and hope that this little volume may 
enable every one, who wishes to do so, to make healthful 
and palatable wine for his own use, and at the same time 
to assist the owner of ten or twenty acres of vineyard to 
convert the products of it into a salable article of 
commerce. 


THE CELLAR. 


Before making wine, room should be provided to keep 
it. If you want to make only a small quantity for your 
own use, and have a common house-cellar, it will answer 
the purpose, although not likely to be cool enough in 
summer. ‘The main consideration is to always have 
the wine thoroughly fermented and finished during 

(139) 


140 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


the first winter. If this is the case, it will keep even in a 
temperature of 65°, though 45° would be better. But if 
one wishes to take up wine making as a business, and 
manufacture several thousand gallons, a special building 
for the purpose is necessary. 

A steep hillside, sloping towards the north, is the 
most suitable locality, and the most economical and 
most convenient building is one of three stories. The 
lower one, for keeping the wine when finished, should be 
completely underground, the second story, intended for 
the fermenting cellar, partially so, at least, and the third, 
intended for the press house, can be entirely above ground, 
so that the grapes can be conveniently carried into it. 
The lower story should be well walled and, if possible, 
arched with stone, though this is not indispensable. If 
arched, it should be about 18 feet wide by 12 feet high 
from the floor to the middle of the arch, so that there is 
room for casks 5 feet long in two rows, one on each side, 
space enough between the casks and the wall to pass be- 
hind them, and a passage of 5 to 6 feet in the center, to 
allow space for drawing off wine, moving casks, etc. 
The length can be suited to the wants of the builder ; the 
entrance should, if possible, be even with the ground, 
and if built into the hillside, it can easily be made so, 
and the back part of the cellar slightly elevated, so that 
it will drain towards the door. It is best to have a room 
in front, so as to keep out the cold air; this can be 
used for storing empty casks, cellar utensils, ete. The 
cellar should be well ventilated on the sides by air flues 
built in the wall, and constructed somewhat like chim- 
neys, commencing at the bottom and terminating above 
the arch. These are to be closed by a grate and trap 
door, so that they can be opened at will, to admit air and 
light. The cellar isto be closed by strong double doors. 
Place on each side two rows of beams, lengthwise, as 
layers for the casks, one to be about 2 feet from the wall, 


AND WINE MAKING. 141 


the other 4'/, feet. It will be best if the floor is paved 
with brick or flags. 

The second story of the building is intended for the 
fermenting cellar, and may be made either of stone, which 
is certainly the most durable, or of wood, if cheaper and 
more convenient ; it need not be arched. It should be, 
at least, 9 feet high, and partly under ground, with its 
entrance from the rear, as this will be more convenient. 
There ought to be holes through the arch of the lower 
cellar, large enough to admit the passage of a hose, by 
which the wine can be racked from the casks in the 
upper cellar into the casks below. This room need not 
be arched, but should be so constructed that it is free 
from frost, and can be heated by a stove, if necessary, to 
regulate the temperature while the must is fermenting. 
Place layers, or beams, to receive the casks, on both 
sides, as in the lower cellar. 

The third story is above the ground, and is calculated for 
the press room, with the entrance from the back, and is 
intended to contain the wine press, grape mill, and fer- 
menting vats, together with all the necessary implements 
for wine making. The whole is to be covered with a good 
roof, and there should be a large cistern, to receive all the 
water from it, and as convenient to the press room as 
possible, so that the water can be drawn into the room by 
a force pump. If the press room is so arranged as to be 
heated by a stove, it will be found convenient in winter 
as a shop in which to prepare cuttings, etc. 

To sum up, there should be: 1st. A cellar to keep the 
fermented wine altogether below ground, so that it will 
remain at as even a temperature as possible. 2nd. A fer- 
menting cellar, or good, air tight room, which need not 
necessarily be below ground, if it can be kept free from 
frost until about December 15th, to put the must through 
arapidand thorough fermentation. 3d. A press room for 
receiving and washing the grapes, and, when necessary, 


142 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING : 


passing them through alight fermentation before pressing, 
with sufficient room for allthe implements. 4th. Plenty 
of good cistern water for all purposes. All the stories, for 
greater convenience in working, to be connected by hose. 


As observed before, any one can make and keep a small 
quantity of wine for home use, even without a regular 
wine cellar. One of the most successful wine makers I 
ever knew, and who afterwards made it by tens of thou- 
sands of gallons, stored his first crop in a hole in the 
ground, 8 feet deep, and planked inside, with a board 
roof ; in this he placed his casks, and covered the whole 
with earth. But for the cultivator who would make 
grape growing and wine making his business, a separate 
wine cellar will become absolutely necessary, and should 
be built as soon as possible. The expense will be accord- 
ing to the dimensions; a building 30 by 18 feet would 
cost here now about $1,500, and have a capacity of 5,000 
gallons in the lower cellar, provided casks of not less than 
500 gallons are used. 


CELLAR FURNITURE. 


We now come to the utensils necessary for wine mak- 
ing. You need: | 


Ist. A Press.—The most convenient one for a medium- 
sized establishment, to press say not over 5,000 gallons 
per annum, I have found to be one made at Belleville, 
fll. It is compact, takes little space, and it has a false 
bottom, which can be easily taken off and cleaned. 
The hopper is in the shape of a double-grooved ring, so 
that the juice can flow off towards the middle, the out- 
side, and the bottom ; it does the work quickly and well. 
A strong iron screw is in the middle, and is worked by 
a lever on top. It costs about $35 to $40. It is dura-. 
ble, easily cleaned, and takes little space. A small 
quantity of grapes can, of course, be pressed with any 


AND WINE MAKING. 143 


kind of acider press, One will press about a barrel at 
a time, and twenty barrels can be worked off in a day. 


2nd. THe Mitt.—For mashing grapes, a simple pair 
of wooden rollers, connected by cog wheels, and running 
against each other, so arranged that they can be set by 
screws to any desired distance apart, will do the work 
better than anything else, and a boy of ten years can turn 
them. The rollers are in a frame which can be set over 
the vat ; a hopper on top to receive the grapes, completes 
the arrangement. The rollers can be either plain or 
grooved, as desired, and the whole will cost from $12 to $15. 
Small quantities may be mashed with a wooden pestle in 
atub. The rollers should be so set as to break the skins 
of the berries, but not to crush the seeds or stems. 


3d. FeERMENTING VAtTS.—These are best made of pop- 
lar wood, and may be of any suitable size, with a capacity 
of from 100 to 500 gallons. For a larger establishment 
I would prefer them about 5 feet diameter by 5 feet high, 
and somewhat narrower at the top than at bottom. They 
should be well hooped and strong, made of 1'/,-inch lum- 
ber, and worked smoothly inside, so that they’ can be 
easily cleaned, with a spigot hole near the botton to draw 
off the must. Their probable cost is about five to six 
cents per gallon. 


4th. Casks.—These are wanted, of course, of all di- 
mensions. Large casks save room, and are proportionally 
cheaper ; fermentation progresses rapidly in them, but it 
takes longer for the wine to fine and clear after fermen- 
tation is over, than in small casks. They should be of 
good, well seasoned white oak wood; if steamed before 
using, so that the tannin is drawn out, so much the 
better. Larger casks should also have a so-called ‘‘man- 
hole,” so that a man or boy can slip in and thoroughly 
clean them when used. I do not advise larger casks than 
500 gallons, as it takes too long to fill them, and they are, 


144 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


therefore, unhandy, except for very large establishments. 
These are about 5 feet long by 5 feet diameter, and should 
be placed on strong beams 
in the cellar, about 18 inch- 
es above the floor and 15 to 
18 inches from the wall, so 
as to enable you to examine 
them at any time and clean 
them of mould or cobwebs. 
Their cost at present is 
about 7 cents per gallon. 
Imported Rhenish wine 
casks, holding from 80 to 
160 gallons each, are also very good if they have not been 
allowed to sour or become mouldy, but, of course, they 
take up more room in proportion than _ 
do large casks. | 

5th. A Srrone WoopEN FuNNEL.— 
This is oblong, with a copper pipe in 
the bottom, and has two short wooden 
legs, so that it will set firmly on the 
cask. Any good cooper can make one. 
See figure 14. 

6th. TuBs TO BE USED IN PRESSING. 
—Any good pine or cedar tubs will do 
for the purpose. Also clean tin or 
wooden pails should be provided in 
abundance. 

7th. A SACCHAROMETER OR Must 
ScaLeE.—This is important and you 
can not do without, as they are the 
only sure guides as to quality of the 
must, and you can not make wine ra- 
tionally or with certainty of success, Fig. 15. 
unless you know what amount of sugar and acid the 
must contains. Oechsle’s is the one most commonly 


Fig. 14.—WOODEN FUNNEL. 


AND WINE MAKING. 145 


used, and can be had in any ‘optical establishment. They 
are made of glass, platina, or silver, at prices ranging 
from $3 to $10. 

Figure 15 shows must scale (silver) and test tube. With 
the scale you should also have a long glass, or tin tube 
made for the purpose of holding the must while testing it. 

AN ACIDIMETER.—The one invented and patented by 
Henry Twitchell is simple, and can be usedwwith accuracy 


Fig. 16,—ACIDIMETER. 


by beginners. It is a timely invention, as it took long 
practice to work correctly with either Otto’s or Geissler’s. 
It is accompanied with full directions for its use. Fig- 
ure 16 gives an illustration of the Acidimeter, 


146 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


GATHERING THE GRAPES, 


Having our cellar built, and stocked with the necessary 
implements, we can now proceed to gather the grapes. 
The proper time to do this depends very much upon 
the varieties. The estivalis, and most of the cordifolia 
class, in short, all grapes which have an agreeable flavor— 
one which we wish to have in its fullest development in 
the must or wine—we ought to have thoroughly ripe. 
The riper the grapes, the more fully will their peculiar 
flavor be developed, the less acid and the more sugar will 
they contain. We must, therefore, learn the nature of 
our grapes before we know when to gather them. In the va- — 
rieties of Labrusca, at least in most of them, their peculiar 
flavor is not desirable in its highest development, and is 
generally characterized as ‘‘foxy.” A good many of 
them also, for instance, Concord and Martha, do not 
contain the proper amount of acid when fully ripe, to 
bear the necessary dilution of this strong, foxy taste, and 
as they must be ‘‘Gallized” at any rate, to be palatable, it 
is not advisable to let them get over ripe. I would advise, 
therefore, to take these, and, in short, all the varieties 
with a strong, foxy, and disagreeable aroma, when fully 
colored, and let those varieties with an agreeable aroma 
hang long, in order to obtain their flavor in its full 
perfection and delicacy ; and also to develop the greatest 
amount of sugar and diminish the acid. The best evi- 
dences of a grape being thoroughly ripe are: 1st. The 
stem turns brown and begins to shrivel. 2d. The berry 
begins to shrivel around the stem. 3d. The skin is thin 
and transparent. 4th. The juice becomes very sweet, 
and adheres to the fingers like honey or molasses. 

It is often advisable to gather twice, as many bunches will 
ripen later than others. If the ripest are gathered first, the 
remainder will ripen quicker, and a uniform product can 
thus be obtained. ‘The first implements needed for the 


AND WINE MAKING. . 147 


gathering are clean wooden or tin pails, and sharp knives, 
or better still, the small shears spoken of in a former 
part of this work, Each gatherer is provided with a pail, 
or two may go together, having a pail each, so that one 
can empty and the other keep filling. If there are a good 
many unripe berries on the bunches, these may be put 
into a separate pail, and also all that are soft, as they 
will make an inferior wine. ‘The bunch 1s cut with as 
short a stem as possible, as the 
stems contain a great deal of 
acid and tannin ; every unripe, @ 
dry, or decayed berry is to be 
picked out, so that none but per- 
fectly sound, ripe berries remain. 

We also need a carrying vat, 
to carry the grapes to the mill 
or wagon, if the vineyard is any 
distance from the cellar, This 
is made of half-inch pine lum- 
ber 3 feet high, 10 inches wide 
at bottom, 20 inches at top, 
being flat on one side, where it 
comes against the back; it is 
bound with thin iron hoops. It 
is carried by two leather straps 
running over the shoulders, as shown in figure 17, and 
will contain about 8 or 10 pails, or 2 to 2'/, bushels 
of grapes. ‘The carrier can easily take it through the 
~ rowsand lean it against a post until filled, and then carry 
the grapes directly to the press room, if close by, if too 
far, place tubs or vats on the wagon, into which the 
grapes may be emptied. The utmost cleanliness should 
be observed in all the apparatus, and no tub, vat, or pail 
shouid be used which is in the least mouldy, as the must 
will at once acquire any foreign taste. Everything should 
be perfectly clean and sweet, and a strict supervision 


Fig. 17.—CARRYING VAT. 


148 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


kept up, that the laborers do not drop crumbs of bread, 
etc., among the grapes, as these will cause acetous fermen- 
tation. The weather should be dry and fair, and the 
grapes dry when gathered. 


MAKING THE WINE. 


The apparatus being all ready, we can commence opera- 
tions, and here we must know, first and foremost, what 
kind of wine we intend to make, whether light-colored 
and smooth, or dark-colored and astringent. . The char- 
acter of the wine depends chiefly on its fermentation on ~ 
the husks, although of course we cannot make an entirely 
white wine out of a grape with very dark juice, nor a red 
wine, except by artificial coloring, out of a white grape, 
or one with very light-colored juice. The general rule 
is, however, that fermentation draws acid, tannin, color, 
and flavor out of the skins and stems, so that if we desire 
to develop the greatest amount of these, we must let the 
must remain longer on the husks; if, on the contrary, 
we desire a mild, smooth wine, it should not ferment long 
on the husks. Many of the red wines of Europe are left 
on the husks for several months, and the wine is drawn 
from them when it is about finished. 

To make white, or light-colored, smooth wine, the 
grapes which were gathered and mashed during the day 
can be pressed and put into the cask during the following 
night. The mill is placed above the fermenting vat, 
and the grapes are mashed as soon as they are carried in, 
or hauled to the press house. The vat is covered with a 
cloth during the day. If the season has been good, and 
you have a perfect grape to deal with, such a one as has 
all the ingredients of a good wine in the proper propor- 
tions, it will make good wine without any other addition. 
If not, sugar, or sugar and water, must be added, but I 
will speak of this in a separate chapter. With the Con- 
cord grape, many make both a white andared wine. The 


AND WINE MAKING. 149 


white is made by simply pressing very lightly as soon as 
the grapes are mashed, so as to drain off the first run of 
the juice before it has acquired any color from the skins. 
The husks are then thrown into the fermenting vat, 
water and sugar added, and fermented several days ; then 
pressed, and thus a red wine is produced. I must say that 
I prefer the wine gained by fermenting, say 24 hours, 
in a temperature of 65° to 80° on the husks, and all 
pressed together. It generally contains all the ingredi- 
ents in better proportions, while the white wine seldom 
has the due proportion of acid and tannin, and the red 
generally has an excess of acid, tannin, and flavor. Of 
course the temperature has a great influence on fermen- 
tation, as in warm weather it progresses much more 
rapidly, and the pressing should be done sooner than in 
cool weather. It is entirely optional with the wine-mak- 
er what kind of wine he produces ; he can make it to suit 
himself, and soon learns how to do it. The longer he 
ferments his must, the more astringent and rough his 
wine will be; and the sooner and lighter he presses, the 
less character will the wine acquire, though it will be 
much more delicate and smooth. 

Before filling the casks they should be well prepared. 
They should be perfectly clean and sweet without the 
slightest mouldiness. If new, they should be steamed, or 
filled with pure water, and allowed to soak for several 
days, then emptied, and scalded with two or three gallons 
of boiling wine. ‘This quantity is for a cask of say 500 
gallons. Or, if this is not convenient, put in, say a peck 
of unslaked lime, and about five gallons of water, then 
put in the bung and turn the cask about, so that all parts 
of it are touched by the mixture. Then pour out the 
lime water, and wash with water, then rinse with a de- 
coction of vine leaves, or warm wine, or better still, pour 
in a pint of pure alcohol or grape brandy, and light 
it by a match, The fumes of the burning brandy 


150 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


will penetrate the wood, and make you secure against 
any taint in the wine. But do not bung the cask 
while the brandy is burning, or you may have an ex- 
plosion before you know it. The same may be done 
with mouldy casks, to make them fresh’ and service- 
able again. 7 

The casks can then be filled with the must, either 
completely, if it is intended that the must should fer- 
ment above, as it is called, or under, when the cask is 
not completely filled, so that the husks, scums, etc., 
which the must will throw to the surface during fer- 
mentation, will remain in the cask. Both methods 
have their advantages, but after long practice, I now 
follow the latter, leaving empty space enough until rapid 
fermentation is over, so that all remains in the cask. As 
long as fermentation lasts, and the gas escapes, all goes 
right, and a few vine leaves over the bung-hole, on which 
a small sack of sand is laid, are sufficient to close it. ‘Of 
course it must be closely watched, and the bung closed 
as soon as fermentation ceases, when the casks must be 
filled with wine kept for that purpose in a separate 
cask. If, during fermentation, cool weather should set in, 
and the temperature fall below 60°, the fermenting cel- 
lar should be warmed by a stove. But this will rarely 
be the case, as the vintage should be over before cold 
weather sets in. 

When violent fermentation has ceased, and the must 
has become quiet, the cask should be closed with a tight | 
bung of white oak or poplar wood. ‘To make dark-red 
wine, the treatment differs, as it is the object, as before 
remarked, to get a wine of the darkest color, highest 
flavor, and of a certain astringency, which it will only 
attain by fermenting on the husks. The must is, in that 
case, allowed to ferment on the husks for from three to 
six days, when the husks which rise to the surface should 
often be pressed down and stirred through the must, to 


a 


AND WINE MAKING. 151 


prevent their souring. The must is then drawn off below, 
by a faucet, and the husks pressed. If it is desired to make 
only a dark-colored wine, without so much astringency, 
and of great body, the grapes are allowed to hang until 
they are very ripe, even shrivelled ; and stemmed, as the 
stems contain a large amount of acid and tannin, and 
give the wine a rough and bitter taste. In this manner 
the celebrated red wines of Burgundy, and the best 
brands of France and Germany, are made. Many of them 
are even allowed to go through the whole process of fer- 
mentation before pressing, and the husks are filled into 
the cask with the must, through a door above, and remain 
there until the clear wine is drawn off. This is gener- 
ally not desirable here, however, as our red grapes con- 
tain sufficient astringency and color without this process. 
After the wine has become quiet it is looked after fre- 
quently, and the casks filled to the bung. As there 
is more or less evaporation, this should be done every two 
or three weeks, always using wine of the same or similar 
character. In two to three months the wine ought to be 
clear and bright, and should then be racked, 7. e., drawn 
from the lees by means of a faucet, and put into clean, 
sweet casks. . It is very important here, again, that the 
casks into which it is drawn, are sweet and clean, or 
‘* wine green.”” For must, fresh brandy or whiskey casks 
may be used ; but after the wine has fermented, it will 
not do to use such, as the wine acquires the smell and 
taste of the liquor. When a cask has been emptied, it 
should be carefully cleaned, as before described, by en- 
tering at the door or man-hole, or, with smaller casks, by 
taking out the head, as the lees are very adhesive, and 
will not wash out readily, but should be brushed off. 
After it is thoroughly cleansed it may be fumigated 
slightly, by burning a small piece of sulphured paper, or 
a nutmeg in it, and then filled. 'To keep empty casks in 
good condition, they should, after cleaning, be allowed 


152 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


to become thoroughly dry, when they are sulphured, 
closed tightly, and laid away in the cellar. The sulphur- 
ing should be repeated every six weeks. When wanted 
for use, they are rinsed with cold water. 

For racking the wine we should have: Ist. A large, 
brass or wooden faucet. 2d. Pails of a peculiar shape, 
narrow at the top, to prevent wastage. 3d. A wooden 
funnel, as described before, to hold about six gallons. 

In racking, first loosen the bung of the cask. Then, 
after loosening the wooden peg, and closing the tap hole, 
let your assistant hold the pail opposite the hole. You 
hold the faucet with your right hand, and with the left 
withdraw the plug, inserting the faucet quickly ; drive it 
in firmly and you are ready for the work. 

Do not fully open the faucet at first, because the first 
pailful is generally not quite clear, and should run 
slowly. ‘This, and the last from the lees, are generally 
put into a cask together, and allowed to settle, when, in 
a few weeks, it will become clear, and make a good wine. 
As soon as the wine runs clear and limpid, it can be put 
into the cask, and you can let it run as fast as the faucet 
will allow, opening it to its fullest capacity. When the 
wine has run off down to the tap hole, the cask may be 
carefully raised at the other end, one inserting a piece of 
board or a brick under it, while the other lifts slowly and 
gently. This may be repeated several times, as long as 
the wine runs clear, and when it becomes slightly cloudy, 
keep the cloudy wine to put with what ran out first. As 
soon as it becomes thick and muddy it is time to stop. 
The door is then taken out of the cask and the lees 
emptied out. They will, if distilled, make a fine flavored 
and strong brandy. If your cellar is built according to 
the plan already given, you can attach a hose to the faucet 
and run your wine from the fermenting cellar into the 
cellar and casks below, which is a great saving of time 
and wastage. The must can also be run from the press- 


AND WINE MAKING. 153 


room into the casks in the fermenting cellar in the same 
manner. 

We should keep in mind, in all operations, the kind of 
wine we intend to make. In white and light-colored 
wines, we desire delicacy of bouquet and smoothness of 
taste ; in red wines for medicinal or stomachic use, we de- 
sire astringency, body, and a decided and characteristic 
flavor. White and light-colored wines should, therefore, 
be racked as soon as they are clear, while red wines may 
remain longer on the lees. Both can be modified, by 
treatment, to meet the peculiar taste ; a red wine may be 


made smoother, and a white wine more astringent, by 
longer or shorter fermentation on the husks and lees. We 
can thus conform to the taste of the consumer. If the 
prevailing taste is for light-colored, smooth and delicate 
wines, we can make them so, by pressing soon, and rack- 
ing soon and frequently. If a dark-colored, astringent 
wine is desired, we can ferment on the husks, and leave 
it on the lees a longer period. There is a medium course 
in this, as in all things, and the intelligent wine-maker | 
will soon find the rules which should guide him, and 
with a little practice discover the method which will give 
him the best results with a certain variety. 

Among the varieties suited for white wines, and which 
should be treated as such, I will name the Elvira, Goethe, 
Herbemont, Martha, Massasoit, Uhland, Catawba, Dela- 
ware, and Taylor, and among the varieties for dark-red 
wines, Cynthiana, Norton’s Virginia, Lenoir, Alvey, 
Clinton, and Ives’ Seedling. The Concord can be used 
for both, or can be made light-red. For Sherry wine, use 
the Hermann, Rulander, and Cunningham. These latter 
require a sort of medium treatment; it is desirable to 
develop their peculiar flavor ; it is not desirable to have 
them astringent or dark-colored. Fermenting on the 
husks 24 to 36 hours, in a temperature of 60° to 70°, will 
be about right for them, It is very important that the 


154 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


temperature should not vary much during fermenta 
tion, and that the first fermentation on the husks, and 
for the first week following, should be rapid and unin- 
terrupted. If the wine goes into the next summer fully 
fermented and finished, clear and limpid, there is little 
danger of its becoming cloudy and diseased afterwards, 
even if it must be kept in a changeable temperature. 


AFTER TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 


Even if the wine was perfectly clear when drawn off, 
in February and March, when it should be racked for the 
second time, it will go through a second fermentation, 
however slight this may be, as soon as warm weather 
sets in, say in June and July. The clearer and better 
developed the wine was when last racked, the slighter 
this will be, for only the lees yet remaining in it which 
the young wine has not entirely deposited will act as the 
ferment. Itis not safe or judicious, therefore, to bottle 
the wine before this second fermentation is over. As 
soon as the wine has become perfectly quiet and clear 
again, generally about September, it can be bottled, or 
sold by the cask. For bottling wine we need: Ist. 
Clean bottles. 2d. Good corks, which must be scalded 
with hot water first, to draw out all impurities, and 
soften them, and then be soaked in cold water. 3d. A 
small funnel. 4th. A small faucet. 5th. A light, 
wooden mallet to drive in the corks. | 

After the faucet has been inserted in the cask, fill your 
bottles so that there will be about an inch of room be- 
tween the cork and the wine. Let them stand a few 
minutes before you drive in the cork, which should be of 
full size, and made to fit by compressing at one end. 
Then drive in the cork with the mallet, and lay the 
bottles, either in sand on the cellar floor, or on a rack 
made for that purpose. They should be so laid that the 
wine covers the cork, to exclude all air, The greater bulk 


= 
AND WINE MAKING. 155 


of the wine, however, can safely be sold now, or kept in 
casks. All the wine to be kept should be racked once 
about every six months, and the casks kept well filled. 


DISEASES OF WINE AND THEIR REMEDIES, 


Wine properly made, and with all ingredients in right 
proportion, will seldom suffer from any disease. Cases 
may arise, however, which may make it necessary to give 
it a different treatment, or fine it by artificial means. 


TREATMENT OF FLAT AND TURBID WINE. 


The cause of flat wine is generally lack of tannin. If the 
wine has a peculiar flat, soft taste, and looks cloudy, this 
is uniformly the case. Draw the wine into another cask, 
which has been well sulphured, and add some pulverized 
tannin, which can be had at any drug store. The tan- 
nin may be dissolved either in water or wine, about an 
ounce to every two hundred gallons of wine, and poured 
in at the bung, after which the wine should be well 
stirred with a stick inserted through the bung-hole. 
Should it not become clear in about three weeks, it must 
be fined. This can be done by adding about an ounce of 
powdered gum arabic, or isinglass, to each forty gallons. 
The gum arabie.will dissolve in cold water, but isinglass 
requires hot water ; stir the wine well when it has been 
poured in. Or take some wine out of the cask, and, for 
each forty gallons of wine, add the whites of ten eggs, 
whipped to foam with the wine taken out; pour this 
mixture into the cask, stir well, and bung tightly. 
After a week the wine will generally be clear, and should 
then be drawn off. An easier and speedier method to fine 
is to put it through a filter filled with paper pulp, but 
the apparatus is Somewhat costly. As it is accompanied 
by directions for use to those who purchase it, it would 
be superfluous to describe it here. As stated before, if 
the wine has been properly made and fermented, such 


156 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


procedures will seldom be necessary, and the wine will be 
sound and clear without any artificial means. The ob- 
servant and rational wine-maker will seldom be troubled 
by any mishaps, and his wines will be cai and 
bright without any such treatment. 


USES OF THE HUSKS AND LEES. 


These can be distilled, and will make a very strong, fine 
flavored brandy. ‘The husks are stamped down into 
empty barrels or vats, as close as possible, with a cover of 
clay made over them, to exclude the air. They willthen 
undergo a fermentation and be ready for distilling in 
about a month. They should be taken fresh from the 
press, for if they remain exposed to the air they become 
mouldy. The lees can be distilled immediately. Good 
fresh lees or husks from rather astringent wines or 
grapes, are also an excellent remedy when the wine be- 
comes flat, as described before. If such wine is ferment- 
ed on the husks again for a day or two, it will generally 
become sound and bright. 


AND WINE MAKING. 157 


CHAPTER XXXII 


DR. GALL’S AND PETIOL’S METHODS OF WINE MAKING, 


So far, I have only spoken of the handling of the raw 
product of Nature, taking for granted that we had a fair 
must in good condition to work with. But this un- 
fortunately is rarely the case, and the natural juice of 
the grape seldom contains all the elementary constituents 
of a good wine in the proper proportions. In fact, very 
many of our American varieties are very imperfect even 
in the best seasons, and contain generally a superabund- 
ance of acid and flavoring matter or aroma. What then 
is the intelligent operator todo? Shall he use them as 
they are, although he is aware they are imperfect, and 
produce a poor, undrinkable, unsalable, and even un- 
healthful article? Or shall he, with the reason and 
knowledge God has given him, seek to remedy Nature’s 
imperfections, dilute the acid and aroma, add sugar, if 
necessary, and thus make a salable, pleasant, and ~ 
healthful beverage ? I think the intelligent wine-makers 
—and it is only for them I am writing, can not hesitate 
which course to take. 

I am aware that I am treading on dangerous ground, 
that I have been severely censured for my advocacy of 
Dr. Gall in my former little book, but truth remains 
truth, whether assailed or not, and the laws of chemistry 
will not change to please any of the ‘* Simon Pure Natur- 
alists,” who rail against Gallizing, because they do not 
know anything about its true principles. But let me 
put myself right before my readers, before entering upon 
the details of the operation. I advocate Gallizing only so 


158 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


far as it is the best means of improving otherwise imper- 
fect must, not as an indiscriminate means of increas- 
ing the quantity at the expense of quality. Only so far 
as by the additior of water and sugar, an imperfect must 
can be made the most perfect, is Gallizing not only justi- 
fiable, but a necessity. As soon as it aims only at in- 
creasing the quantity without regard to quality, it is rep- 
rehensible, and should be frowned down. This may be 
called gallonizing, not Gallizing ; and that these gallon- 
izers have done a great deal of mischief by bringing their 
trash before the public, and calling it wine, can not be 
denied. But those who, from a mistaken idea that a 
wine to be good and healthful, must be natural, as they 
call it, have made it as Nature gave it, and have, there- 
fore, disgusted the palates of refined wine connoisseurs by 
their pure, but weak, foxy, aud acid Concords, and Ives, 
etc., thus doing even more to bring American wines into 
discredit than the gallonizers. Both of these, the natural 
wine-makers and the gallonizers, have been the curse and 
bane of our wine markets ; those who, in the inno- — 
cent belief that they were tasting fair samples of Ameri- 
can wines, swallowed their compounds and were disgusted, 
aud when they met with good productions, were de- 
terred from tasting again. The true course lies in 
the middle, as usual. The wine-maker has certain un- 
erring guides, which teach him, with a little practice 
and Sxprnilena ‘‘thus far shalt thou go, but no 
farther.” 

Having thus datthed what we intend to do, whioh is 
simply to improve our must, if deficient, let us, to see 
our way Clearly before us, examine as to the consti- 
tuent parts of must or grape juice. A chemical analysis 
of must shows the following result : 

Grape juice contains water, sugar, free acids, tannin, 
gummy and mucous substances or gluten, coloring mat- 
ter, fragrant, or flavoring substances (aroma, bouquet). 


AND WINE MAKING. 159 


A good of normal must should contain all these ingredi- 
ents in due ,roportion. If there is an excess of one, and 
a lack of the other, it can not make a perfect wine. 
This would seem apparent to every reasoning wine maker. 
Must which contains all of these in exactly the right pro- 
portion we call a perfect or normal must; and only by 
determining the amount of each of the ingredients in 
this so-called normal must, can we gain the knowledge 
that will enable us to improve must which has not 
the necessary proportion of each. The frequency of 
unfavorable: seasons in Europe, set intelligent men to 
thinking ; their grapes were sadly deficient in sugar, did 
not ripen fully, and also lacked in flavor. How then 
could this defect be remedied, and a grape crop which 
was almost worthless from its want of sugar and excess 
of acids, be made to yield at least a fair article, instead 
of the sour and unsalable wine generally produced in 
such seasons? Among the foremost who experimented 
with this object in view I will here mention Chaptal, 
Petiol, but especially Dr. Ludwig Gall, who has at last 
reduced the whole science of wine making to such a 
mathematical certainty, that we are amazed that so 
simple a process should not have been discovered long 
ago. It is the old story of the egg of Columbus, but the 
poor wine-makers of Germany and France, and we in 
this country also, are none the less indebted to those in- 
_ telligent and persevering men for the incalculable benefits 
they have conferred upon us. 

The production of good wine is thus reduced to a 
science ; though we cannot, perhaps, in a bad season, 
produce as high flavored and delicate wines as in the 
best years, we can now always make a fair article, by 
following the simple rules laid down by Dr. Gall. 
Nay, a&most of our grapes, in a good season, contain 
flavor in excess, we can often make fully as palatable 
Wine in a poor season, when that flavor is not so fully 


160 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


developed, by merely adding water and sugar to dilute the 
acid. In this respect we can make a more uniform pro- 
duct from our strongly flavored varieties, than the Euro- 
peans can from their delicately flavored varieties of vini- 
fera, which are deficient in flavor in bad seasons. 

When this method was first introduced, it was calumni- 
ated and despised, called adulteration of wine, and even 
prohibited by the governments of Europe, but Dr. Gall 
fearlessly challenged his opponents to have his wines 
analyzed by the most eminent chemists. This was re- 
peatedly done, and the results showed that they could find 
nothing but such ingredients as pure wine should con- 
tain; and since men like Von Babo, Dobereiner, and 
others, have openly endorsed and recommended Gallizing, 
prejudice is giving way before the light of scientific 
knowledge. ‘The same will be the case here. Intelligent 
men will see that there is nothing reprehensible in the 
practice, and the public will, in time, prefer the properly 
Gallized, and, therefore, more palatable and more health- 
ful wines, to the foxy and acid productions of the stick- 
lers for natural wines. 

To determine the amourt of sugar and acids in the 
must, we need a few necessary implemenis. The first is 
the must scale, or Saccharometer, already mentioned in 
the necessary implements for wine making (see fig. 29.) 
The most suitable one now in use is Oechsle’s Must Scale, 
constructed on the principle that the instrument sinks 
the deeper into any fluid the thinner it is, or the less 
sugar it contains. It is generally made of silver, or 
German silver, although it is also made of glass. A 
represents a hollow cylinder, best made of glass, filled with 
must to the brim, into which place the must scale, B. 
This is composed of the hollow float, a, which keeps it 
suspended in the fluid ; of the weight, 0, for holding it in 
a perpendicular position, and the scale, divided by small 
lines into from 50° to 100°. Before the scale is placed 


AND WINE MAKING. 161 


in the must, draw it several times through the mouth to 
moisten it, but allow no saliva to adhere to it. When 
the scale ceases to descend, note the degree to which 
it has sunk, after which, press it down with the finger a 
few degrees further, and on its standing still again, the 
line to which the must reaches, indicates its so-called 
weight, expressed by degrees. ‘The must should have a 
temperature of 65° to 70°, be weighed in an entirely fresh 
state, before it shows any sign of fermentation, and should 
be free from husks; if strained through a piece of 
mosquito bar; or small sieve all the better. 


This instrument, which is indispensable to every one 
who intends to make wine rationally, can now be had 
from prominent opticians in nearly every large town. It 
indicates the amount of sugar in the must, and its use is 
so simple, that every one can soon become familiar with 
it. The next step in the improvement of must was to 
determine the amount of acids it contained, and this 
problem has also been successfully solved by the inven- 
tion of the Acidimeter. 


As remarked before, T'witchell’s Acidimeter is the best 
now in use, and as it is accompanied by full directions 
for use, I need not repeat them here, further than to say 
that to ascertain the acidity of must, it should be tested 
when pressed, as many of our pulpy grapes contain 
nearly all their acid in the pulp, and the instrument 
will, therefore, not give a fair indication until fermenta- 
tion has drawn out the acid. 


A normal must, to suit the prevailing taste here, should 
contain about four-thousandths parts of acids, while in 
Europe it varies from four and a half to seven-thousandths, 
as the taste there is generally in favor of more acid 
wines. I cannot do better here than quote from Dr. 
Gall, who gives the following directions as a guide to 
distinguish and determine the proportion of acids which 

ll 


162 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


a must should contain to be still agreeable to the palate, 
and good : 

‘* Chemists distinguish the acids contained in the grape 
as the vinous, malic, grape, citric, tannic, gelatinous, 
and para-citric acids. Whether all of these are contained 
in the must, or which of them, is of small moment for 
us to know. For the practical wine-maker it is sufficient 
to know, with full certainty, that, as the grape ripens, 
while the proportion of sugar increases, the quantity of 
acids continually diminishes, and hence, by leaving the 
grapes on the vines as long as possible, we have a double 
means of improving their products, the must or wine. 

*¢ All wines, without exception, to be of good and 
agreeable taste, must contain from four and a half to seven- 
thousandths part of free acids, and each must containing 
more than seven-thousandths part of free acids may be 
considered as having too little water and sugar in propor- 
tion to its acids. 

‘*In all the wine-growing countries of Europe, for a 
number of years past, experience has proved that a cor- 
responding addition of sugar and water is the means of 
converting the sourest must, not only into a good drink- 
able wine, but also into as good a wine as can be produced 
in favorable years, except in that peculiar and delicate 
aroma found only in the must of well-ripened grapes, 
and which must, and will, always distinguish the wines 
made in the best seasons from those made in poor 
seasons. 

‘‘The Saccharometer and Acidimeter, properly used, 
will give us the exact knowledge of what the must con- 
tains and what it lacks, and we have the means at hand,. 
by adding water, to reduce the acids to their proper pro- 
portions, and by adding sugar, to increase the amount of 
sugar the must should contain ; in other words, we can 
change the poor must of indifferent seasons into the nor- 
mal must of the best seasons in everything, except its 


AND WINE MAKING. 163 


bouquet or aroma, thereby converting an unwholesome and 
disagreeable drink into an agreeable and healthful one.” 


THE CHANGE OF THE MUST INTO WINE. 


Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful, 
simple, and yet so complicated process, to give a clearer 
insight into the functions which man has to perform to 
assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the 
desired end. I cannot do better than to quote again from 
Dr. Gall. He says: ‘‘ To form'a correct opinion of 
what may, and can, be done,.in the manufacture of wine, 
we must be thoroughly convinced that Nature, in her 
operations, has other objects in view than merely to 
serve man as his careful cook and butler. Had the high- 
est object of the Creator, in the creation of the grape, 
been simply to combine in the juice of the fruit nothing 
but what is indispensable to the formation of the delicious 
beverage for the accommodation of man, it might have 
been still easier done for him by at once filling the ber- 
ries with wine already made. But in the production of 
fruits, the first object of all is to provide for the propaga- 
tion and preservation of the species.. Each fruit con- 
tains the germ of a new plant, and a quantity of nu- 
tritious matter surrounding and developing that germ. 
The general belief is that this nutritious matter, and even 
the peculiar combination in which it is found in the fruit, 
has been made directly for the immediate use of man. 
This, however, is a mistake. The nutritious matter of 
the grape, as in the apple, pear, or any similar product, 
is designed by Nature only to serve as the first nourish- 
ment of the future plant, the germ of which lies in it. 
There are thousand of fruits of no use whatever, and even 
noxious to man, and there are thousands more, which, 
before they can be used, must be divested of certain — 
parts, necessary, indeed, to the nutrition of the future 


164 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING. - 


plant, but unfit, in their present state, for the use or 
_nourishment of man. For instance, barley contains 

pre ) starch, mucilaginous sugar, gum idhesive matter, vege- 
table albumen, phosphate of lime, oil, fibre, and water. 
All these are necessary for the formation of roots, stalks, 
leaves, flowers, and the new grain ; Wide vi the manufac- 
ture of beer, the brewer needs only e sub- 
stances. ‘The same rule applies to the grape. 

‘**In this use of the grape, all depends upon the judg- 
ment of man to select such of its parts as he wishes, and 
by his skill he adapts and applies them in the manner 
best for his purposes. In eating the grape he throws 
away the skins and seeds ; for raisins, he evaporates the 
water, retaining only the solid parts, from which, when 
he uses them, he rejects the seeds. If he manufactures 


. s ¥ y the /Cgs t 
must he lets the skins remain._, In making wine (he sets 
. A generar . tram 
free the carbonic acid n the must, and re- 


moves the lees, gum, tartar, and, in short, everything 
deposited during and immediately after fermentation, as 
well as when it is put into casks and bottles. He not 
only removes from the wine its sediments, but watches 
the fermentation and checks it as soon as vinous fer- 
mentation is over, and the formation of vinegar about to 
begin. He refines his wine by an addition of foreign sub- 
stances; if necessary, he sulphurizes it, and, by one means 
or another, remedies its diseases. 

‘‘'The manufacture of wine is thus a many-sided art, 
and he who does not understand it, or knows not how to 
guide and direct the powers of Nature to his own pur- 
poses, may as well give up all hopes of success in it.” 

So far Dr. Gall; and to the intelligent and unbiased 
mind, the truth and force of these remarks will be appar- 
ent. How absurd then are the blind ravings of those 
who speak of ‘‘ natural”? wines, and condemn as adul- 
teration and fraud every addition of sugar and water to 
the must by man, in seasons when Nature has not fully 


AND WINE MAKING. 165 


done her part. There is no such thing as “ natural 
wine,” for wine, especially good wine, is the product of 
art, and an artificial process from beginning to end. An 
all-wise Creator gave us the raw materials for our suste- 
nance and convenience, but gave us also reasoning powers 
to convert them to our use, and make them more whole- 
some and palatable. Shall we eat the raw potato simply 
because it is a natural production, or are we justified in 
cooking and roasting it, to make it more palatable and 
wholesome ? How would the “naturalist ” stare if some 
fine morning his good wife would set a cup filled with 
raw coffee beans and some water before him, instead of 
his usual fragrant beverage, and a dish of raw wheat in- 
stead of the usual light rolls which tempt his appetite ? 
Yet the making of coffee and bread are even less natural, 
more artificial, than the addition of sugar and water to 
the must. Would not the wine-maker act as foolishly as 
the housewife who puts raw coffee and wheat upon the 
table, instead of the fragrant cup and white roll, if he 
has it in his power to remedy the deficiencies of Nature 
by such means as she herself supplies in good seasons, 
and which ought, and would be in the must, but for un- 
favorable circumstances over which we have no control ? 
Wine thus improved is just as pure as if the water and 
sugar had naturally been in the grapes.in the right pro- 
portions, just as beneficial to health, and only the fanati- 
cal numskull can call it adulterated. But these preju- 
dices will disappear before the light of science and truth, 
and have disappeared already, until there is not a single 
establishment of any consequence, either here or in 
Europe, where it is not followed, either secretly or open- 
ly, and to the manifest improvement of their wines. 
Yet, strange to say, these same ‘‘ naturalists” will 
enjoy sparkling wines with a great deal of gusto, although 
they are a still more artificial product. And many of 
them will smack their lips over some rare so-called, ‘‘ Old 


166 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Port,” which has never seen a grape, but is some skillful 
concoction of logwood, spices, tartaric acid, syrup, alco- 
hol, and tannin. ‘‘ Oh, consistency, thou art a jewel!” 

Let us now observe the change which fermentation 
makes in converting the must into wine.. The nitro- 
genous compounds—vegetable albumen, gluten—(which 
are contained in the grape, and which are dissolved in 
the must as completely as the sugar), under certain cir- 
cumstances turn into the fermenting principle, and so 
change the must into wine. This change is brought 
about by the fermenting substance coming in contact 
with the air, and receiving oxygen from it, in conse- 
quence of which it coagulates, and shows itself in the 
turbid state of must, or young wine. The coagulation 
of the lees takes place but gradually, and just in the de- 
gree that the exhausted lees settle. The sugar generally 
turns into alcohol. The acids remain partly as tartaric 
acid, are partly turned into ether, or settle with 
the lees, crystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the 
cask. The etheric oil or aroma remains, and develops 
into bouquet, as does the tannin, to a certain degree. ‘The 
albumen and gluten principally settle, although a small 
portion of them remains in the wine. ‘The coloring 
matter and extractive principle remain, but change some- 
what by fermentation. 

Thus it is, that must containing a large amount of 
sugar, needs a longer time to become clear, while that 
containing but asmall portion soon becomes clear. Many 
southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar undecom- 
posed ; such are called sweet, or liqueur wines, whereas 
wines in which the whole of the sugar has been decom- 
posed in the fermentation, are called sour or dry wines. 

I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give 
my readers an insight into the general principles which 
should govern us in wine making. I have quoted freely 
from the excellent work of Dr. Gall, We will now see 


AND WINK MAKING. 167 
how we can reduce these principles to practice. I will 
illustrate by an example. — 


NORMAL MUST. 


Experiments continued for a number of years have 
proved that, in favorable seasons, grape juice contains on 
an average in 1,000 pounds : 


PEE pow iacdnede sccodcvdvegevenccsecs 240 pounds. 
MS Toco ta adc code dcneacwe Sanpues eas 6 
DUMNGY Can ewessctsvcedvthbanecesaseene (0° eed 


1,000 


This proportion would constitute what I call a normal 
- must. But suppose that in an inferior season the must 
contains, instead of the above, as follows : 


MS ais a's cs dale ove asus eoece cape ede 150 pounds 

Acids ice caso at eue sds sean eee stseweine’ 9 

WEEE s iccccccicccnsccccces: ceccccevvese 841 
1,000 


What should we do to bring such a must to the condi- 
tion of a normal must? We calculate thus: If, with 6 
Ibs. of acids in a normal must, there is 240 lbs. of sugar, 
how much is wanted for 9: lbs. of acids? Answer.—360 
Ibs. Our next problem is: If, with 6 lbs. of acids in a 
normal must, 754 Ibs. of water appear, how much water 
is required for 9 pounds of acids ? Answer.—1,131 lbs. 
As, therefore, the must which we intend to improve by: 
neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 lbs. of sugar, 9 
Ibs. of acids, and 1,131 Ibs. of water, but contains already 
150 lbs. of sugar, 9 lbs. of acid, and 841 Ibs. of water, 
there remain to be added, 210 Ibs. of sugar, no acids, and 
290 lbs. of water. 

By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 lbs. of must, by 
210 lbs. sugar, and 290 Ibs. of water, we obtain 1,500 Ibs. 
of must, consisting of the same properties as the normal 
must, which makes a first class wine. 

This is wine making in Europe, according to Dr. Gall’s 


168 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


method. Now let us see how we can adapt it to Ameri- 
can grapes and wines. 


THE MUST OF AMERICAN GRAPES. 


If we closely examine the musts of most of our American 
grapes, we find that they not only contain an excess of 
acids in inferior seasons, but even a greater superabund- 
ance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring mat- 
ter. There is such an abundance of flavor in many of 
them, that, were the quantity doubled by addition of 
sugar and water, there would still be an abundance. 
With some varieties, such as Concord and Ives, if fer- 
mented on the husks, it is so strongly foxy, as to be dis- 
agreeable, and as the pulp of them is very tough and 
slippery, they can not be pressed clean without fermen- 
tation. We must, therefore, not only ameliorate the 
acid, but also the flavor and astringency, of which the 
_ tannin contained in the stems is the principal cause. 
Therefore, it is even more important to us than to Euro- 
pean wine-makers, to gain the knowledge to Gallize our 
wines properly. By proper management we can change 
must, which would otherwise make a disagreeable wine, 
into one in which everything is in its right proportion, 
and which will thus suit a customer to whose fastidious 
taste it would otherwise be repugnant. ‘True, our grapes 
will ripen better here, so that we can, in most seasons, 
produce a wine without a great excess of acids, but the 
American taste requires a less acid wine any way, and we 
must dilute the aroma to make our wines salable. Here 
another difficulty presents itself. The riper a grape is, the 
more of its peculiar aroma will it develop, and if we 
would let our Concords hang until they are so ripe that 
the acid has been reduced to the proper proportion, the 
aroma becomes so strong that it is very repugnant to a 
refined taste. What course remains then for us to take ? 
Shall we let our grapes hang until the acid is reduced, 


AND WINE MAKING. 169 


and make an abominably, foxy wine, which no one will 
buy? Or shall we gather our grapes when well colored, 
Gallize the must until the acid and flavor are reduced to 
the proper amount, and thus produce a very fair, light- 
red wine, palatable to most, and a refreshing and in- 
vigorating beverage to all? I think the mater 3 is the best 
course, and the only reasonable one. 

At that time the must of Concord grapes will gener- 
ally weigh about 65° to 70° on Oechsle’s Scale, and the 
Acidimeter will indicate about 6°. Now we make our 
calculation as follows: A normal must, to suit the 
palate here, should indicate about 80°, and show 4° on 
the Acidimeter. ‘To reduce the acid to 4° we must add 
one-third water, or, in other words, if we have 480 lbs. 
of Concord grapes, which would make 40 gallons 
of pure juice, we must add 20 gallons of water. 
To these 20 additional gallons of water, we must 
add 40 Ibs. of the best crushed sugar, to bring the 
water up to the ratio of normal must, 80°. But we 
have also a discrepancy of 15° in the must if it indicated 
65°. To bring this also up to 80° we must add three- 
eighths pound of sugar to every gallon of must, or 15 lbs. 
to the 40 gallons. The addition to 480 lbs. of grapes 
would then be as follows: 20 gallons of water, 55 lbs. of 
sugar, and no acid, making 60 gallons of must of normal 
proportions, instead of 40 of pure juice. These will be 
about the right proportions for a pleasant and hand- 
some wine, of good color, pleasant flavor, and not too 
acid to suit the general taste, with also the proper pro- 
portion of tannin, which will be marketable sooner, and 
at a much higher price, than if we had allowed the grapes 
to hang a month longer, and then pressed the natural 
must, which would, perhaps, not contain an excess of 
acid then, but certainly an excess of foxy flavor and 
tannin. 

Different grapes will, of course, require different treat. 


170 ‘ AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ment. It is only by experimenting that we can find how 
much each variety should be Gallized to produce the 
best possible wine. Nor are the grapes alike in all sea- 
sons, and one season’s product of the same grape may re- 
quire different treatment than the other. To illustrate a 
case in point: While experimenting with varieties, I 
had, in the summer of 1866, enough of Rulander grapes, 
then a new variety, to make 5 gallons of pure juice, 
which, when tried by the saccharometer, showed 104°. 
This was pressed and put into a 5-gallon cask. The 
husks were thrown back into the fermenting vat, and 5 
gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of sugar added, bringing 
the water up to 100°, and fermented 48 hours, then 
pressed and put into another 5-gallon cask. When press- 
ing these my vintner thought that there was too much 
flavor and character in the husks left to be thrown away, 
and he once more added 5 gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of 
sugar, and fermented this three days and three nights, 
then pressed, and put into a third 5-gallon cask. The 
wines became clear at about the same time, had nearly 
the same color, and when tested by several connoisseurs, 
they pronounced all good, but No. 2 the smoothest and 
finest wine; No. 1 rather the fullest, but somewhat 
more astringent, while No. 3 was but little inferior to 
No. 2. This verdict was given without knowing how 
the wines had been made. We then mixed the three 
wines, equal parts, in a tumbler, and upon testing, found 
the mixture a better wine than either was separately. 
The three, after this trial, were put together, and made 
a wine like very fine Golden Sherry, which took the first 
premium as best light-colored wine of any variety, at the 
Combined Exhibition of the Longworth Wine House and 
the American Grape Growers’ Association, at Cincinnati, 
in 1867, in competition with over 30 samples of the finest 
Catawbas, Delawares, and Herbemont, as well as numer- 
ous other first premiums wherever exhibited. I have 


AND WINE MAKING. 171 


made hundreds of such experiments, modifying the treat- 
ment with the character of the variety. I know, there- 
fore, whereof I speak. Of course the above is an ex- . 
treme case ; but few varieties have so much flavor and 
character as the Rulander, and the treatment which pro- 
duced so fine a wine from this grape, would have made a 
very flat ‘‘ Maxatawney,” a grape which has but little 
character. When making such experiments I made it a 
rule always to keep some of the pure juice by itself, for 
comparison, and the tests were, therefore, made with the 
greatest fairness, and with but one aim, that is, to ascer- 
tain how the best possible wine could be made from any 
variety. Were I to give more of these experiments here, 
my readers would, perhaps, be even more astonished than 
I was, at the results ; but facts are stubborn, and can not 
be controverted. Seeing, and in this instance, tasting, 
is believing, and as I kept a very careful record of all 
cellar operations, there could be no mistakes. 

I will here quote one of my first experiments made with 
very imperfectly ripened Catawba grapes, made in 1865, 
when that grape ripened very poorly, on account of mil- 
dew and rot. I found, on testing the must, that it would 
only show from 52° to 70°, while a normal Catawba must 
should weigh at least 80° in good seasons. My calcula- 
tions for making the additions which I knew were imper- 
atively necessary, were based upon the following reasons : 
If normal must weighs 80°, and this averages but 60°, 
there is a deficiency of half a pound of sugar to the gal- 
lon of must. But there should also be an excess of acid 
of at least one-third, as the Catawba has a superabund- 
ance of acid in even the most favorable seasons. I must, 
therefore, add at least one-third more water to dilute 
the acid, and to this water add 2 Ibs. of sugar to each 
gallon, so that the whole mixture will weigh 80°. I did 
so, fermented all on the husks 36 hours, and the result 
was a very fine, golden-colored Catawba, which I sold 


172 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


before it was six months old, at the highest figures Ca- 
tawba wines were then bringing, to the first buyer who 
came and tasted it. 

As the Catawba constitutes yet, to a great extent, the 
product of Eastern and Northern vineyards, it may be 
well to give a few more hints to my readers on the man- 
agement of Catawba must. ‘This variety contains, as 
already mentioned, a very large amount of acids, as well 
as a great deal of tannin and flavor. This must be ap- 
parent to every one who has ever eaten well-ripened Ca- 
tawba grapes. It has besides a very tough and acid 
center or pulp, of which every one can convince himself 
when eating even the most thoroughly ripened Catawba 
grapes. The first taste is delightful, but let him press 
the pulp and skins closely and he will find that the after 
taste is sourand rough. Of course fermentation extracts 
all this, and while the Catawba contains all the ingredi- 
ents for a palatable wine, these two are present to a very 
great excess, and make the wine sour, astringent, and 
unpalatable. What then is necessary? We must simply 
add water and sugar, even in the best vintages, fo ameli- 
orate this, and much more in inferior seasons, and we 
will make better wines than are now in the market and 
much more wholesome, than the so-called ‘‘ Sweet Ca- 
tawbas,” which are villainous compounds of unripe grape 
juice, raw spirits, and syrup added after fermentation, 
and afford an excuse for the habitual tippler to say that 
he drinks only wine, not whiskey. It would be better if 
he did take spirits so far as the effects on his system are 
concerned, for such mixtures intoxicate nearly as much, 
and the deleterious stuff they contain is only glossed 
over by the syrup. If Catawba wine is rationally Gall- 
ized, it makes a very pleasant, high-flavored wine, and 
those who prefer to have it still sweeter, can add sugar. 
when drinking it, to suit their taste. If this were done, 
we would have no need of these ‘‘ Sweet Catawbas ” 


AND WINE MAKING. 173 


which now disgrace the wine trade of the country, and 
pure, light wine would have a better chance to become 
the universal beverage of the people. I do not pretend 
to give fixed rules to do this ; even were I competent, the 
product varies too much with the locality and the season. 
I merely attempt to show the way. Let every one experi- 
ment, and note the results, and he will soon see how 
far he should go to make the best wine, for he should not 
go farther. Let the best product always be his aim, not 
quantity. 

The Concord, now so generally grown, is another va- 
riety which is immensely improved by Gallizing, and, as 
before remarked, to make the most palatable wine, should 
not be allowed to get too ripe. When the grapes are 
fully and evenly colored on the bunch, it is time to 
gather it, and I would rather add more sugar, than wait 
until it is fully ripe, as then its flavor becomes too strong 
and apparent. ‘The same rule may be applied to the 
Martha, which is best when fairly ripe, but when over- 
ripe loses its sprightliness, and becomes foxy, while its 
wine is, When made in time, fully as good as the best 
Catawba. The addition of from one-third to one-half 
water and sugar, or in other words, from two-thirds to 
one gallon of water and sugar to every 12 lbs. of grapes, 
and the whole mixture brought to 80° on Oechsle’s Scale, 
fermented about 36 to 48 hours on the husks, in a tem- 
perature of 75°, will generally make the most palatable 
wine, from most of the Zabrusca class and their hybrids. 
The Gothe, under the same treatment, will make an ex- 
cellent white wine, sprightly and pleasant, with just 
enough of its fine Frontignan flavor to make it agreeable. 

Those who wish to satisfy themselves, can easily make 
the experiment, as I did, cautiously, and step by step. 
Let them make a small quantity of pure juice-wine, so- 
called, and compare it with wines made at the same 
time, of the same grapes, but Gallized more or less, and 


174 AMERICAN GRAPH GROWING 


keep a careful record of the operation. This was my 
method, and I aimed always at improving the quality ; 
so soon as I found the quality diminished, I considered 
it time to stop, while so long as the quality improved, I 
thought it safe to advance. Consider each variety a 
separate subject for experiment, it will not do to trust 
to surmises and guess work, nor can any rule be given 
that will apply to all varieties alike. 

So far I have spoken mostly of the Zadruscas and their 
hybrids. When we come to the estivalis class we have 
entirely different material to deal with, and while we may, 
and can, by judicious Gallizing, improve some of them, and 
make them smoother and more palatable, yet with those 
which are used chiefly for medical purposes [as Norton’s 
Virginia, which has become a great remedy for dysen- 
tery, bowel complaints, and cholera infantum], it will be 
better to let the grapes hang until they are dead ripe. 
Stem them before crushing, add very little or no water, 
and ferment on the husks for a week, or even longer. 
Their flavor is not objectionable, and the object here is, 
to make an astringent and heavy wine, and develop all 
the medicinal qualities which that grape possesses in 
such an eminent degree. ‘To make simply a good Claret 
from it, of course it can be Gallized, and will make even 
a more pleasant wine for every day use. This class, 
however, also differs as much in its varieties as the La- 
brusca. Ihave already cited an example of the Rulander, 
which has a decided Sherry flavor. ‘The Hermann, a 
- seedling of the Norton’s, is another with a strong Sherry 
character, so marked that the pure juice has too strong a 
flavor, yet when properly Gallized it makes a delightful 
deep-yellow wine, equal to any Golden Sherry, and the 
white seedling from it seems to be a still greater improve- 
ment, as it is much more delicate and juicy than its 
parent. And here let me make a prediction, to which 
long years of careful observation have led me, and whick 


AND WINE MAKING. 175 


is shared by all of the prominent grape-growers of the 
State, so faras I know. It is this, that the grape-grow- 
ers of the State, if they turn their attention chiefly to 
the best of the estivalis, the Cynthiana, Norton’s Vir- 
ginia, Neosho, and others, which have not been so fully 
tried, will, at no distant day, excel the products of the 
choicest vineyards of the European Continent, and may 
safely challenge the world in the production of the 
choicest Burgundies, Clarets, and Sherries, and the 
sooner we turn our attention to them the better. Cali- 
fornia, and even the East, may excel us in the quantity, 
and rival us in the quality of white wines, but from all 
the information I can obtain, they can not come near to 
our red wines, which are even now the equals of the 
best wines of Burgundy. ‘This is our proper field, and 
the sooner we concentrate our energies upon it, the better 
will it be forus. They are, at the same time, Phylloxera- 
proof, and we need not fear that they will ‘‘ go back” 
upon us. 

In the cordifolia we have still another material. The 
grapes of this class may be said to occupy a position be- 
tween the Labruscas and the estivalis class. Nearly all 
contain considerable acid, and an abundance of flavor, 
and are much improved by judicious Gallizing; but as 
their skin and pulp is tender, they need not be fermented 
on the husks for any length of time. ‘Twenty-four hours 
of lively fermentation will generally be sufficient for the 
Elvira, Taylor, and Clinton. They promise to furnish 
us another class of wines, and as they are also Phylloxera- 
proof, we may consider these two classes as the founda- 
tion of future grape growing. We have but just com- 
menced experimenting with this class, but the great 
success achieved by Mr. Rommel and others justify the 
most sanguine hopes. I was particularly struck with 
some wines shown me by Mr. James Ricketts, from sey- 
eral Clinton seedlings, foremost among which are the 


176 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Bacchus and Ariadne. They show a new class of wines, 
light red in color, of great body, and very peculiar flavor. 
Should these varieties prove to be adapted to more gen- 
eral culture, we may expect some remarkable wines from 
them. . 

Of course these are only general hints, which are cal- 
culated to show my wine-making friends the way they 
must go, to make palatable and wholesome wines. I 
shall not attempt to go into details about varieties, as 
even these differ so much in different localities that no 
rules for their treatment could be given to apply in all 
cases. Nor do I pretend to be perfect, but I am convinced 
more and more every day, how little I yet know, and 
how much [ have to learn. 

In all my experiments I aimed to come as near the 
normal must of the variety I experimented with as possi- 
ble, in the specific gravity of the water and must, when 
mixed. I have no doubt that we also have much to learn 
_ yet in the judicious mixing of several kinds of grapes. 
Experiments in that line have already shown astonishing 
results, and the art of blending and cutting wines, so 
well understood and practised in the best cellars of Eu- 
rope, is yet in its infancy here, but will, no doubt, have 
a great influence upon our future products. But this 
art can only be based upon a thorough knowledge of the 
characteristics of each individual variety, and he who 
undertakes the task must bring to it a peculiar talent 
and highly developed taste, as well as the nicest discrimi- 
nation of the traits of each variety. If our grape growing 
and wine making had the experience of several centuries 
to look back upon, we could base our operations upon 
certain knowledge. Now we are feeling our way. The 
pioneers who first made the clearings in our woods, 
greatly rejoiced when chey couid eat the first hoe-cake 
from the corn their industry had planted in the wilder- 
ness, and still more enjoyed the rolls made of their first 


a ee 


AND WINE MAKING. 17? 


wheat. Like them are we overjoyed at what we have 
achieved, and know that the grape, so lately but the 
child of these same forests, is susceptible of as much im- 
provement and as great a change, as that which converted 
the old time clearing, with its simple log cabin, into the 
pleasant homestead with its smiling and tasteful lawn and 
orchard, rich with golden fruits, And those who intend 
to be the winners in this race, must have the pluck and 
perseverance of the old frontier pioneers, hoping always, 
even in the most gloomy times, for brighter days, and 
never doubting of the end. 

Dr. Gall recommended grape sugar as the best to be 
used for Gallizing. This is made from potato starch, 
but all the samples I have yet tried are not pure enough, 
and leave an unpleasant, bitter taste in the wine. I 
have, therefore, used the best and purest cane sugar, 
and as it also dissolves more readily in water, I prefer it, 
and have found it to answer every purpose. I have lately 
tasted a sugar made from the Minnesota or Early Amber 
cane, which seems to be well adapted to the purpose, and 
if the production of its sugar assumes the dimensions 
it now promises, we’ may have an important advantage 
over our former method, in a cheaper and better 
article of sugar. The best cane sugar when dissolved 
in water in the proportion of 2 Ibs. of sugar to the gallon, 
will show upon the scale about 80°. In making additions 
to Catawba, Goethe, Martha, Elvira, and all the lighter 


- wines, it takes about 2 Ibs. of sugar to the gallon of 


water, to produce the weight of normal must of these va- 
rieties. For Norton’s Virginia, Cynthiana, Rulander, and 
all the heavier wines, it will take, at least, 2'/, lbs. of 
sugar to the gallon of water, as their normal must ranges 
from 100° to 110°, and sometimes 120°, in the product 
of the best seasons. 

As a general rule it may be assumed, however, that 
our native grapes, with their strong flavor and abundance 

hn 


178 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


of tannin and coloring matter, will admit, nay, require, 
much more Gallizing than the more delicate and finer 
flavored grapes of Europe. How far we can go with each 
variety I do not presume to say, and only experience can 
safely guide us here. It must be apparent to every one 
who is ever so slightly acquainted with wine making, how 
widely different the varieties are in their characteristics 
and constituents. I have tried only to give an out- 
line of the necessary operations, as well as the prin- 
ciples underlying the science of wine making, have 
quoted facts, only so far as I have become familiar with 
them through long practice and observation. No one 
can be better convinced than Iam, how much we have 
yet to learn, and how wide the field that lies before us. 
I have been severely censured for the open advocacy of the 
method of Dr. Gall, even by those who have practised it as 
zealously and not always confined themselves as much to 
its true limits as I have tried to do. Many of our best 
wine-makers think that we should keep the knowledge we 
have gained to ourselves, and profit by it in secret, in- 
stead of openly facing a prejudice which we know to exist. 
But it has always been a deep-seated conviction with me 
that knowledge, like God’s sun, should be the common 
property of all ; that it is a duty every citizen owes to the 
community in which he lives, to impart freely what he 
may know, to every one. Only thus can we progress in 
this fast age, where progress is the watchword. Truth 
and justice need never fear the light, they can only gain 
by close investigation. 

And here let us look at the probable effects these 
methods of improvement are likely to have upon grape 
culture, and ask ourselves: Is there anything repre- 
hensible in them, any reason why they should not be- 
come generally known? I think the answer is easily 
found. Gallized wines contain nothing, which fermented 

rape juice, in its purest and most perfect condition, does 


AND WINE MAKING. 179 


not also contain. They are, therefore, as pure as any 
grape juice can be, with the consideration in their favor, 
that they contain all the ingredients in their proper pro- 
portion. 

It is a matter of course that careless and slovenly work- 
ers have failed, and will continue to fail, in making good 
wine by this, or any other method, but this cannot be 
used as an argument against it. ‘To make a good article 
the peculiarities of each variety must be closely studied, 
and we must not think that water and sugar will ac- 
complish eyerything. Its use should be limited, and be- 
comes abuse as soon as it oversteps that limit. 

But I will hope that I have contributed my mite to the 
fund of universal knowledge, and if this little volume 


_. only aids every farmer in the land, who can grow grapes, 


to make a few barrels of pure, light wine for family use, 
to take the place of poor whiskey and brandy, now the 
bane and curse of so many households, I am more than 
repaid for the labor of many a lonely early morning hour 
it has cost me. Mine has been an incessantly busy life, 
and the time for these scribblings has been stolen mostly 
from the ‘‘ small, still hours.” I know of no holidays, 
and have often had to force exhausted nature to the 
task. This must be my excuse for its many imperfec- 
tions. But I flatter myself that I am not entirely mis- 
taken, when I think I send it on a temperance mission, 
perhaps more true and, therefore, more effective than any 


- Murphy movement. I have always looked upon the gen- 


eral use of pure, light wine as the best temperance mea- 
sure that could be adopted. A glass of wine, used early 
in the morning, I have found to be the best preventive 
against malaria, and nothing revives the sinking energies 
of the worn out laborer better during a hot summer day, 
as I know from actual experience. I have known it to 
save life in dangerous diseases, and could cite many in- 
stances did time and space permit, 


180 gad “AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


‘Let us all then further the cause of grape-culture. 
The laborer by producing fruit, the mechanic by inven- 
tions, the scientist by improving our methods, the law- 
giver by wise laws in its favor, and all others by using its 
products in moderation, as one of the best gifts from the 
fountain of all that is good, pure, and beautiful. 


CHAPTER XXXTIL 
WINE MAKING RENDERED EASY, 


Perhaps it may have seemed as if I was only writing 
for the benefit of those who can follow grape growing and 
wine making on a larger scale, with abundant means at 
their command, to build commodious cellars, plant large 
vineyards, and hire laborers to do the work. This is not 
the case, however. If I have given the outlines of 
larger operations it is because our object should always 
be to attain perfection in everything ; I have never for a 
moment lost sight of the interests of those, who, like 
myself, have to commence at the lowest round of the 
ladder, who have to make a small beginning, and work 
their way up through untold difficulties. There is not 
an operation in the vineyard, from the clearing of the 
unbroken forest and prairie, to the finishing touch given 
to the wine at its last racking, which I have not performed 
and am not thoroughly familiar with, and I can, there- 
fore, fully sympathize with the poor laborer, who has 
nothing but his industrious hands, and an honest in- 
tention to succeed. 

While it may hardly be advisable now, in these days of 
low prices and light demand for wine, to begin grape 
growing as a means of support, with the hope of realiz- 
ing a handsome income from it in the course of a few 


AND WINE MAKING. Pix y 4 
(Gitacts 
years, yet there is no reason why every farmer should not 
have a small vineyard, grow his own grapes, and make 
his barrel or two of wine, or why every owner of a garden 
should be without enough grapes for the use of the 
family. 

Grape-vines of the more common varieties are very cheap 
now, and an outlay of $5 to $10 will buy one hundred to 
two hundred vines—enough to makea start with. Plant 
these, at any rate, if you cannot do more, and grow your 
own vines hereafter to enlarge your vineyard.’ Wire for 
trellis is also very cheap now, and it is not needed the 
first year or two. A few hundred vines can be easily 
kept in order before breakfast ; let the children help you, 
they can do a great deal of the lighter work, and will 
learn to take a delight in it. And when your first crop 
of grapes ripens, and you can make a few barrels of wine, 
if you have no press or commodious cellar, you can find a 
cider press somewhere, and room in the cellar of one of your 
neighbors to store it. One of our most successful wine- 
growers commenced his operations with a simple hole in 
the ground, dug under his house, and his first wine-press 
was merely a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a 
lever upon the grapes, with a press bed, also of his own 
making. His vineyard and winé cellars are now among 
the best in the county, and although he no longer lives 
to enjoy it, his family are left in affluent circumstances, 
and grape growing alone has made them wealthy. Be- 
sides, -we have got down to the lowest prices, and as the 
prospects for the grape-growers of the Old World, and 
even of California, darken on account of the Phylloxera, 
our own begin to brighten. We know that we have 
something we can depend upon, and feel that better 
days will come again for the grape-growers and wine- 
makers of the country. 

Of course it is not advisable to keep the wine over 
summer in an indifferent cellar, but if it is good, as it 


182 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ought to be, you can easily dispose of it as soon as clear. 
Or you can dispose of your grapes, if you can not or will 
not make them into wine, to some neighbor, or market 
them yourself. Nearly all of our small country towns 
afford a ready market for a small quantity, indeed often 
a better one than do the large cities. 

Another way to make grape growing and wine making 
easy, is to form grape and fruit colonies. There are lo- 
cations enough in all the States of the Union, where suit- 
able lands for this purpose can be had cheap. ‘The ad- 
vantages of such colonies can be easily seen. If each one 
has a small piece of suitable land (and he does not need a 
large tract for this business), they can assist each other in 
plowing and sub-soiling, and will thus be able to do with 
fewer animals, by preparing the soil first for one, then for 
the other, the ravages of birds and insects will hardly be 
felt, the neighbors can join together in building a cellar, 
where all can store their wine, and of which one can take 
the management. They can market their product easier, 
obtain better prices, and lower rates of transportation to 
large cities, than single individuals, and also make a bet- 
ter and more uniform product. 

There are thousands of acres of land well adapted for 
the purpose, in Missouri and other States, which could be 
had at very low prices, where the virgin soil waits only the 
bidding of intelligent and combined labor, to bring forth 
the richest fruits. There is room for thousands—may it 
soon be filled with willing hearts and hands to undertake 
the task. 


AND WINE MAKING, 183 


CHAPTER XXXIV. 
CONCLUDING REMARKS. 


I have little to add regarding wine making in all those 
sections where American grapes are the basis of the wine 
industry. The principles remain the same, though 
some of the many new varieties may need more or less 
modification in their treatment to make palatable wine 
from them.’ Some of the new varieties recently intro- 
duced by Professor Munson, Hermann Jaeger and: the 
late John Burr, will probably yield better wines, if prop- 
erly handled, than the old sorts. The seedlings and 
crosses from the Herbemont and lincecumii types will 
furnish specially valuable material, 

Here on the Pacific coast, where I have followed grape 
growing for the last fifteen years, and introduced many 
of our American varieties with high hopes of success, 
the outcome has in most cases been disappointing. The 
Norton and Cynthiana were total failures, not alone in 
amount of production, but also in the quality of the 
wine made from them. The fruit was only half the nor- 
mal size and almost destitute of juice, so that here, where 
gallizing is not practiced, they were wholly unprofitable. 
The only American varieties which succeed, to any ex- 
tent, are the Herbemont, Lenoir, Louisiana and Ru- 
‘lander. These make a fair natural wine, without any 
addition. The Herbemont, if pressed lightly, makes a 
good white wine, sprightly, and of good aroma. The 
Lenoir makes an exceedingly dark wine, which is con- 
sidered valuable as a so-called ‘‘doctor wine,” to blend 
with vinifera wines, and to impart color to claret and 
burgundies. The Louisiana and Rulander make a nat- 
ural sherry, about 160 gallons of which, made in my 
Vineyard last year, are of high promise as a natural 


184 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


liquor wine. But the varieties do not all yield the same 
quality as similar vinifera varieties, and as they are, be- 
sides, more costly to train and cultivate, they will hardly 
become popular, except, perhaps, as stocks to graft upon. 
Even for this purpose the wild riparia is generally pre- 
ferred, as it has proved entirely resistant, and takes the 
graft easily. The Elvira, and others of its class, were 
alse failures as direct producers, for the grapes are much 
smaller, drop worse from the bunch, and are more foxy 
than in the Eastern States. Still, they make good stocks 
for grafting. 

The progress made since the first edition of this work 
was published may be gathered from the ‘‘ Experience of 
Other Growers,” in Part II. I can only thank the gen- 
tlemen who have so kindly contributed. to those pages. 
They are, naturally, better guides than I can be in esti- 
mating the value, for wine making, of the newly intro- 
duced American varieties,—who have observed their 
growth and can judge of their quality better than any 
person who is working, as I am, in an entirely different 
field, with vinifera sorts as a basis for natural wine. 
Their detailed experience shows that there is an inter- 
mediate region in Western Texas and New Mexico where 
both American and vinifera varieties succeed equally 
well; where the latter ripen as early as the last of May 
and all through June, and large tracts are being planted 
with them for early markets. Their wine-making qual- 
ities remain to be tested. 


PART IV. 


GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE MAKING 
IN CALIFORNIA. 


_ AND WINE MAKING, 187 


CHAPTER XXXV. 
THE VINE IN CALIFORNIA, 


Grape culture in California differs so materially from 
Eastern methods that there is hardly any comparison to 
be made. That the vine has here found the most con- 
genial climate, there can be no doubt. All the choicest 
vinifera varieties flourished here with a luxuriance un- 
known in Europe until the phylloxera made its appear- 
ance and began its ravages. So far, no remedy has been 
found, save grafting the vinifera on the American re- 
sistant stocks. ‘This method has been tested for fifteen 
years, and the results are all that can be desired. Not 
only do the viniferas flourish as well as formerly on their 
own roots, but they are greater and more abundant bear- 
ers, while the fruit produced is fully as good, if not of 
superior quality. We have now fairly passed the experi- 
mental. stage, and know pretty well what to plant and 
what to graft. With these introductory remarks, we 
can proceed to the first stage of the work, which will be 
the foundation of the vineyard and the choosing of the 
different classes of grapes. 


RESISTANT STOCKS. 


_ VintFERA.—Of European or Asiatic origin. By far 
the greater part of our vineyards, where they have not 
been destroyed by the phylloxera, consist of these on 
their own roots. It comprises nearly all the valuable 
varieties for wine, table or raisins, and as all grow from 
cuttings with the greatest ease, the establishment of a 
vineyard was an easy and inexpensive task. Such plant- 
ing is no longer safe—the phylloxera has destroyed thou- 
sands of acres of vineyards already, and the only safe 
way is to plant resistant vines. These we will consider 


188 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


in the order of their value and general adaptability, ease 
of propagating and facility for grafting. 

Vitis Rrparra.—This is at present the most popular 
and preferred class, both in its wild form and some of 
its cultivated varieties, of which the Elvira is perhaps 
the most prominent. They have proven entirely resist- 
ant, adapt themselves to the greatest variety of soil 
and location, grow easily and rapidly from cuttings, and 
take the graft readily, forming a complete junction. 
Objection has been raised to the Riparia on account of 
its slender growth, and it has been claimed that the graft 
would outgrow the stock, but so far this has not been 
the case, and vineyards grafted twelve years ago are yet 
perfectly healthy and more productive than when on 
their own roots. For a minute description of all classes, 
the reader is referred to the first part of this book. 

Vitis AisTIVALIS.—This is perhaps next in value, 
although the different varieties do not grow so readily 
from cuttings, and it is also claimed by some writers 
that they are not entirely resistant. This impression, I 
think, had its origin in the method formerly employed, 
of grafting below the surface. ‘Thus grafted, the graft 
made strong roots of its own, causing the stock to dwin- 
dle and die, and as the roots of the graft were non-re- 
sistant they were attacked and destroyed by the phyllox- 
era. Iam not afraid to risk Aistivalis stock, if grafted 
above the surface, as being entirely resistant, and as it 
isa heavier grower than the riparia, it makes a good 
stock. An impression prevails that it succeeds best on 
rich, deep soils. It suckers less than any other Ameri- 
can class, which is another point in its favor. 

Vitis RupEstRIs.—This class has somewhat disap- 
pointed the high expectations once entertained of it, 
when it was thought it would prove specially adapted to 
dry, shallow soils, as it is found on the dryest hillsides 
in Southern Missouri, Arkansas and Texas. It does not 


AND WINE MAKING. 189 


flourish in dry locations here, and as it suckers profusely 
and does not take the graft as readily as the two former 
classes, it is not largely propagated. 

Vitis Lasrusca.—This can hardly be called entirely 
resistant, as the insect feeds on its roots to some extent, 
though not to the extent that it does on the vinifera. 
In the Simonton vineyard were some Catawbas and Isa- 
bellas mixed in a block of old Mission vines, which re- 
mained, to all appearances, healthy and produced fair 
crops after the Mission had entirely succumbed to the 
phylloxera. I would not, however, recommend it as a 
resistant stock, as the whole class roots shallow, and is, 
therefore, apt to suffer from drouth. 

Vitis CALIFoRNICA.—This, our native wild grape, 
found all along our creeks and ravines, was at one 
time considered entirely resistant, although it was 
suspected that its soft, spongy roots would be as sub- 
ject to the attacks of the insect as those of the vinifera, 
which they strongly resemble. This surmise proved 
correct, and it is not considered a resistant to-day, 
though its vigor and strong growth will doubtless en- 
able it to resist longer than the vinifera, the attacks 
of the phylloxera. Neither will it flourish in dry, shal- 
low soils. It takes the graft readily, perhaps more so 
than any other class, but does not make so good a junc- 
tion as riparia. 

Vitis ARIZONICA.—This seems to be an intermediate 
between riparia and Californica, of upright growth and 
shining leaves. It never seemed to flourish well and 
has not been fully tried. 

The Solonis, Vialla, Berlandieri or Monticola, Doani- 
ana, Champini and Lavata have their admirers in France, 
and Professor Munson thinks highly of them as resist- 
ants, but they have not been fully tried in this State. 
I believe, from experience up to date, that the riparia 
Will be safest to plant and graft. Cuttings of the riparia 


190 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


can now be had at from two to three dollars per thou- 
sand, and rooted plants at about twelve dollars per thou- 
sand. Hence there is but little gained here, by growing 
young plants in a nursery. 


CHAPTER XXXVL 
LOCATION, ASPECT AND SOIL. 


Vineyards are more easily planted and cultivated in 
valleys than on hillsides, and on the rich bottom lands 
are generally more productive; yet to those who desire 
fine quality, the hillsides are to be preferred. Vineyards 
in the valley are more liable to damage from late frosts 
in the spring and early frosts in autumn, and the fruit 
is naturally inferior. Our best wines, in the future, will 
have to come from the hillsides, from light, rich, warm 
soils, and from small growers, not the immense whole- 
sale cellars where hundreds of tons are crushed in a day, 
handled pellmell and mixed up without regard to qual- 
ity. But it would be equally unreasonable to suppose 
that fine wines could be made from vines planted on the 
bed rock, or in locations which will not support even a 
moderate growth of grass, as we often see them on our 
southern hillsides. What the vine wants, here as else- 
where, is a deep, moderately rich soil, which will enable 
it to send its roots down to elaborate its food. This is 
generally found on the hillsides sloping to the north or 
northwest and southwest, where the redwood, manzanita, 
mountain laurel and hazel form the natural growth. If 
such a hillside is not too steep, there is the location for 
the vineyard—not on the southern slope, where the soil 


AND WINE MAKING. 191 


is generally shallow and poor, and where the vines 
are subjected to the rays of the afternoon sun, the 
dews of the night having already been dried up. We 
must remember that our vines are expected to do with- 
out rain from May to September, and when they are 
constantly exposed to the afternoon sun, they are apt to 
become sun-scalded, while on the northern slopes they 
have the full benefit of the sun in the forenoon, when 
the foliage is fresh from dew, which enables them to re- 
main fresh all day. Only from a vine in full vigor can 
we expect to get its most perfect product—not from 
starved specimens. ‘There are exceptions to every rule, 
and we have southern slopes with deep soil where vines 
will do well; but the hot afternoon sun is always an ob- 
jection to the best of these locations, and where they are 
finally chosen, the varieties planted or grafted should be 
such as are least subject to sun-scald. The Zinfindal 
will hardly do in such situations, as its foliage and fruit 
are very tender. Steep hillsides should always be 
avoided, as cultivation and fruit gathering on them are 
more expensive. 

The foregoing applies only to wine grapes. For mar- 
ket and for raisins, the rich bottom lands may be prefer- 
able, as they will produce larger and more showy fruit. 
But if even for these purposes, the frost question should 
be carefully considered. Any one who has closely ob- 
served the effects of frost, will have noted the great dif- 
ference existing between the lowlands and the hillsides 
- above them, i 


192 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER XXXVIL 


PROPAGATION. 


By reason of our rainless summers, cuttings, or even 
rooted vines, do not make much growth the first season, 
but they become established, and after the rains of the 
following winter and spring, start into vigorous growth. 
Many, therefore, plant cuttings at once in the vineyard, 
taking the precaution to put two at each stake, some- 
what diverging at the base, so that if both grow, one 
‘can be removed to fill vacancies where both have died. 
Here, I think this is perhaps the best method, as it saves 
the labor of planting cuttings in the nursery, digging 
and transplanting; in addition, the cutting has made 
its roots and sent them into the most congenial soil, and 
it receives no check by transplanting. If care be taken 
to plant only the best cuttings, made of medium, well- 
ripened wood, if possible with a heel of the old wood 
attached, there will be but few failures, and it saves a 
great amount of work. I have seen vineyards, lately, 
partly planted with rooted riparias and partly riparia 
cuttings, and the difference was scarcely perceptible 
after two years. Both were grafted the same spring, 
about 95 per cent. of the grafts living, and some of the 
grafts produced from eight to ten clusters of fruit. This 
very gratifying result was reached under the personal 
supervision of the proprietor, on a rich piece of soil care- 
fully prepared, and he may expect a crop of three tons 
to the acre the fourth season after planting, with graft- 
ing intervening. That cuttings planted in the vineyard 
where they can occupy the space alone, instead of being 
crowded in nursery rows, will develop better and make a 
stronger growth, is self-evident. ‘The main condition to 
this success is clean cultivation and frequent stirring 


AND WINE MAKING, 193 


of the soil to induce moisture. Without this, it is 
impossible. 

As to making the cuttings, the rules given in the first 
part of the book will hold good here. It may be well, 
however, to make them somewhat longer, say thirteen to 
fifteen inches, and have about two buds above the 
ground. ‘To prevent suckering after grafting, the lower 
buds may be cut off with a sharp knife, leaving the up» 
per three buds, when there will be no further trouble. 
To plant in nursery, the same rules as to length of cut- 
tings, cultivation, etc., will apply, with the single ex- 
ception that the cuttings are slanted more in planting, 
to facilitate digging, while in the vineyard they are 
planted almost perpendicularly. Cuttings can be pro- 
cured for three dollars per thousand, but it is safer to 
prepare them yourself. This can be done at any time 
during the winter, as long as the wood is dormant, but 
they should be kept fresh from the time the wood is 
taken from the vines. They can be preparéd during 
rainy days, tied in convenient bundles and heeled in in 
a shady place to keep them dormant until wanted for 
planting, which is generally in March or the early part 
of April, by which date ample opportunity will have 
been given for preparing the soil in the best manner and 
allowing it to be warmed up by the rays of the sun. 

If it is convenient to irrigate the nursery, it can be 
made a great help, but do not do it until July or August. 
To irrigate earlier is unnecessary, as the soil contains 
enough moisture for growth, whereas irrigation cools 
the ground below the surface so much that the forma- 
tion of callus and roots is retarded. Warmth is needed 
then, as well as moisture. But whether planted in vine- 
yard or nursery, do not fail to keep the lower ends 
moist. This is best done by keeping them in a bucket 
of water while planting, and when planted, by firming 
the soil well around their base by trampling it down 

13 a 


| £ a bid . i oP 
ey S908 Hy AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


compactly after filling with well-pulverized earth. When 
covered and firmed to the depth of three inches, the re- 
mainder of the earth may be pulled in loosely, but should 
also be well firmed. 


CHAPTER XXXVIIL. 
VINEYARD PLANTING, 


This is generally done in the spring, as soon as the 
ground is dry and warm enough, the time varying in 
different parts of the State. We prefer to plant in 
blocks of two and a half acres, with avenues intervening, 
to facilitate hauling the grapes. In the old plantations 
the vines were planted in squares, 7x7 or 8x8 feet, which 
admitted of cultivation both ways, but planting ata greater 
distance one way and a lesser space the other is of late 
more generally preferred. It is urged for the latter 
method, and no doubt justly, that it admits of more 
thorough cultivation. At the old distance only two or 
three furrows could be plowed between rows, while by 
the latter, five can be made with double teams. The 
latter method also facilitates picking and hauling, as 
teams can pass between the row, and it gives more air 
and light to the vines, thereby making them more 
healthy and luxuriant. In most plantations vines are 
now set 6x10 feet, which gives the same number of vines 
to the acre as when set 8x8, with the wider rows running 
parallel with the hillside, if hillside there be, making it 
more convenient to haul on fertilizers and to remove 
grapes and brush from the vines. 

The ground should be deeply plowed and pulverized, 
as described in Part I. After the ground has been thor- 


AND WINE MAKING. 


oughly evened by rolling, or dragging, it must be marked 
off. For that purpose, about 1200 markers are needed, 
small redwood sticks a foot in length, and lines, two to 
reach lengthways and one crossways. First mark the 
avenues one way, to the most convenient location for 
delivering the grapes, twelve feet wide, then the inter- 
secting or cross avenues, by placing a marker along the 
outside line every six feet and every ten feet on the in- 
tersecting line, After thus laying off into blocks, or 
squares, each containing about two acres, we can mark 
all the squares. This is most accurately and quickly 
done by four men (two of whom stretch two lines, one 
on each side of the block, commencing at the second 
marker), who also take charge of the cross line, the other 
two doing the marking. The cross line is now stretched 
from the second marker, drawn tightly and straight, 
and markers are placed at each intersection. The line 
is then moved to marker three, which is similarly marked, 
and so on to the end of the block. 

When the marking is finished, planting is in order, 
assuming that the ground has been well prepared. Small 
holes are dug with the spade, always on the upper side 
of the marker, toward the hill, if hill there be, as nearly 
perpendicular as possible, and about a foot in depth. 
The vines or cuttings, as the case may be, should be 
kept in water while planting. The planters follow the 
diggers, placing the plant or cutting at the bottom of 
the hole, the upper end above ground just at the marker. 
The roots must be covered with well-pulverized, moist 
earth, firmed around them by pressure with the foot. 
This is quickly done if the ground has been well pre- 
pared. All that now remains to be done during the first 
summer is to keep the ground loose and moist by a fre- 
quent use of the cultivator, plow and hoe. 


196 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER XXXIX. 


OULTIVATION OF THE YOUNG PLANTS. 


GRAFTING. 


Little pruning will be needed on the young vines the 
following year, as we suppose they are all resistant 
stocks—it would be the hight of folly to plant any 
other. Cultivation should be thorough—by deep plowing 
in early spring, and frequent stirring of the soil during 
summer. ‘The young plants need no staking or tying 
until grafted, and no pruning unless they grow extra 
strong ; in that case the growth of last year may be cut 
back to three or four buds, and the stronger growth 
used for cuttings. 

Opinions vary widely as to the proper season for graft- 
ing. Some contend that grafting should be done early 
in order to make a complete junction. ‘The French 
have carried this theory so far as to graft the cuttings in 
the shop. After forty years’ experience in grafting the 
grape, I have reached the following conclusions: . 

1. There is no time gained by grafting when the 
stock is too small to hold the graft firmly. On the con- 
trary, grafts, to succeed at all, must be firmly tied, as 
otherwise there is danger of moving the cion. The 
operation materially retards the growth of the stock, 
and without a vigorous stock to start with, there can be 
no complete success. A stock of an inch or an inch and 
a half in diameter is preferable, and this is not often ob- 
tained before the third year after planting. 

2. The cions should be prepared through the winter, 
of medium sized, short jointed, well ripened wood, and 
carefully stored away in a cool, shady place to retard 
their growth. They should be at least fifteen inches in 
length, and from an inch to an inch and a half of wood 


AND WINE MAKING. 197 


should be left below the lowest bud. ‘Too much care 
cannot be exercised in their selection. 

3. In grafting viniferas on resistant stocks, the oper- 
ation should be performed above ground, at a smooth 
place nearest or above the surface. This will prevent the 
graft from forming roots, which would be non-resistant. 
The ground should be well drawn up around the graft to 
prevent drying out. 

4, The best time for the operation is when the sap is 
in rapid motion, which will vary with the locality. If 
the cions have been kept dormant, it may be performed 
in California as late as May, but any time in April is 
preferable. Grafting too early is apt to cause stagnation 
and souring of sap. 

Having laid down the general principles, the opera- 
tion itself is next in order.” This is best done after the 
first plowing, when the soil is turned away from the - 
vines and it can be conveniently divided between three, 
or even four men. The first clears the earth away from 
the vine, cuts off the stock with a pair of sharp pruning 
shears about one or one and a half inches above a joint 
or node, and if cleft grafting is the mode practiced, he 
can make the longitudinal cleft or cut, taking care not 
to bruise the bark on the side where the cion is to be 
inserted. 

The grafter comes next, with his tools and cions in a 
basket, and should be the most careful man of all. He 
needs a sharp, thin-bladed knife to cut the cions to a 
long, sloping wedge, just below the bud, as already ex- 
plained in Part I, and if the stocks are too large to be 
split with shears, a grafting chisel and wooden mallet 
should be used. Generally these are not necessary in 
young vineyards. ‘The cion is pushed down firmly into 
the cleft, and if the stock closes well around it, needs no 
tying or bandaging. It is wise for the grafter to carry 
tying material with him, as it will be needed in occae 


198 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


sional cases where the split in the stock extends so far 
down that it will not hold the stock firmly. The suc- 
cess of the operation depends mainly on a close junction 
of stock and cion from the top to the bottom of the cleft. 
The third man follows, drawing well-pulverized earth 
around the base of the cion, or the junction, pressing it 
on and around the cleft and the top of the stock, and 
then drawing well-pulverized earth around the cion, 
leaving only the two upper buds exposed. ‘This finishes 
the operation. It is wise to drive a stake at each graft 
soon after the operation. It serves as a protection to 
the young graft, and the young, tender growth, when it 
appears, should at frequent intervals be tied to the stake. 
Suckers from the stock should be promptly removed. 


CHAPTER XL. 
SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 


The whole success of the vineyard may depend on a 
proper selection of varieties. It is, however, almost im- 
possible to give general rules, as some soils are especially 
adapted for producing the choicest red wines, while 
others will give that delicacy of flavor, that sprightliness 
and fullness especially admired in the Hocks and Sau- — 
ternes, of which the Riesling and the Semillion may be 
considered the leading types. Generally we expect the 
finest red wines from soils rich in iron, to give them the 
fine, violet color, the tannin and fine bouquet, while the 
finest white wines are generally produced on lighter col- 
ored, gravelly soils. That there is an immense difference 
in soil and location goes without saying. The cultivator 


AND WINE MAKING. 199 


who comes into an unfamiliar locality would be wise to 
consult neighbors with similar soil, who have had experi- 
ence with it, as to what varieties to plant. Unfortu- 
nately there has been too little of that reciprocity among 
growers. <A tendency to ape French and Italian meth- 
ods has also unwisely prevailed, presumably because 
grape growers have so often been told that California is 
the France or Italy of America, forgetting that entirely 
different conditions here prevail. The varieties of the 
vinifera in California are almost without number—they 
may reach 500 or more, imported from all parts of the 
globe. That many of these have proved comparatively 
worthless is but natural. Ina book like this, it is im- 
possible to describe any except the most prominent, 
classifying them under their uses, for red wine, white 
wine, sherry, port, brandy, for table and market and 
for raisins. 


GRAPES FOR RED WINE. 


- The demand for red wines exceeds that for white, and 
descriptions here follow, taking first those which pro- 
duce red wines of the highest grades but which are mod- 
erate bearers, following with varieties used for the more 
common wines, but which are very productive. 
CABERNET SAUVIGNON. Synonym Carbenet.—The 
highest type of Bordeaux wines, but a rather shy bearer. 
Vine a rather thin, straggling grower, with deeply lobed 
and serrated foliage, downy beneath. Clusters rather 
small, loose, shouldered ; berry small, round, black, cov- 
ered with blue bloom, juicy and sweet, with a peculiar 
aroma, somewhat resembling the frost grape. This 
flavor is strongly perceptible in the wine, so as to become 
almost disagreeable, although it becomes milder with 
age. Its true province is in blending with other and 
softer varieties, such as the Carignane and Mataro, 
which are abundant bearers, but lack sprightliness, 


200 _ AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CABERNET FRANC.—This is closely related to the 
Sauvignon, but the leaves are not so deeply lobed and it 
is rather more productive, though perhaps not so high 
in quality. Grafting on the riparia has improved the 
bearing of both of the Cabernets, many who thusfgrow 
them reporting yields of three tons to the acre. As 
these grapes are always worth double the price of com- 
mon varieties, such a yield would be satisfactory. 

Brctan.—Makes one of the choicest red wines, smooth 
and of delicate flavor. Vine a fair grower and bearer; 
cluster rather small, shouldered and compact; berry 
rather small, long, black, rather thick skin, fine flavor. 

VALDEPENAS.—A Spanish grape of high character, 
making a true claret wine of the sprightly type. Vine 
vigorous and productive; cluster long and loose, shoul- 
dered ; berry medium, round, black, with blue bloom; 
very valuable. 

Petit SyRAH. Synonym Serine.—Strong grower and 
productive, making a fine claret wine of high character. 
Cluster rather long and loose, shouldered ; berry slightly 
oblong, medium, black, with blue bloom. 

GamMAY TEINTURIER.—A moderate grower, with dark 
foliage ; very productive. Cluster compact, shouldered ; 
berry below medium, oblong, black, with very dark 
juice; very refreshing and sprightly. It is one of the 
coloring grapes, and can be used to great advantage to 
ferment with other varieties which lack color, though it 
makes a fine, sprightly wine by itself. It would make a 
fine blend with the following: 

Buiack Prnot. Synonyms, Chauche Noir, Blauer Bur- 
gunder.—Vine a strong grower but moderate bearer, 
subject to coulure sometimes. Cluster and berry rather 
small, compact, ripening early and developing a high 
percentage of sugar; black, with rather thick skin, and 
very agreeable flavor. Makes a very full, smooth wine, 
but lacks color and sprightliness, both of which would 


AND WINE MAKING, 201 


be imparted by the Gamay, which ripens at the same 
time. 

Meunier. Synonyms, Miller’s Burgundy, Miillerrebe. 
—Moderate grower and bearer, as most of the Pinots 
are, but makes an excellent wine. The foliage is a light 
green, covered with a white bloom, looking as if dusted 
with flower, hence its name. Cluster small, slightly 
shouldered; berry rather small, slightly oblong, also 
covered with white bloom ; delicate and sprightly. 

Rerosco. Synonym, Crabb’s Black Burgundy.—This 
is a strong grower, very productive in some locations, 
subject to coulure in others. Leaf heart-shaped, covered 
with gray furze beneath. Cluster medium, shouldered ; 
berry medium, slightly oblong, with thick'skin and dark 
juice, making an excellent, full-bodied wine. 

The following I would classify not as high as the fore- 
going, but as making very good red wines in their proper 
location: St. Macaire, Spanna or Nebbiolo, Tannat, 
Carignane, Fresa, Petit Bouschet. The last is especially 
cultivated because it contains a great amount of color 
and tannin, which makes it very valuable for blending. 

ZINFANDEL.—As this was the first grape’ of which 
good red wine was made here, and it yet occupies a large 
part, if not a majority, of our vineyards, a more com- 
plete description of it is given—its good qualities and its 
faults. If planted on soils rich in iron, along our hill- 
sides, especially on northern slopes with deep soil, it 
will develop abundance of sugar and fine flavor. Such 
Zinfandel wine will reach perfection in about two years, 
and should not be kept over three, as it will then lose 
that fine raspberry flavor and sprightliness which char- 
acterize it when young. Grown on rich valley lands, it 
isa wine of little color and character, and becomes a 
very indifferent beverage. Its good qualities are early 
productiveness, easy training and sure crops, which have 
given it the name of the ‘‘ poor man’s grape.” Its faults 


202 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


are, uneven ripening, some of the berries drying up long 
before the others are ripe, which makes fermentation 
very difficult ; liability to sunscald of foliage and fruit ; 
liability to frost and over-productiveness. It is not sat- 
isfied with producing one crop, but will sometimes pro- 
duce two or three more from the laterals on the bearing 
shoots. ‘‘ With all its faults, we love it still,” and a 
Zinfandel claret from locations best adapted to it, care- 
fully made, is good enough for any one. Unfortunately 
there is much made not up to these standards, hence 
the many complaints about inferior red wines. The 
three following are very productive and make very fair 
wines : 

Mondeuse, or Gros Syrah, Mataro, and Charbonneau. 
The last makes a wine of very deep color, but of very 
rough character, and the color fades with age. Grenache 
may also be classified with these, being very productive, 
even on poor soil, and makes afair wine. Ofcourse there 
are other varieties which have their merits, for instance 
Grosse Blaue or Koelner, Blauer Portugieser, and a host 
of others, but not all have been sufficiently tried, and it 
is not well to cultivate too many varieties. The above 
are some of the best, and comprise both quality and 
quantity. 

Among the varieties which make the finest port, but 
which are rather unproductive, is the Trousseau or 
Trussieux. 

GRAPES FOR WHITE WINE. 

Owing to the importation of many of the best types of 
vines from the Rhine and from France, the white wines 
of California won a reputation at an earlier date than 
did the red wines, a better grade being produced. Hock 
from the Mission grape, and the white wine made from 
the first run of the so-called Black Malvasia, were not 
calculated to raise their reputation. They were too fiery, 
and lacked the delicacy of flavor and the smoothness of 


AND WINE MAKING, 203 


the better wines, now made from the Riesling and some 
of the French Sauterne types. It may, however, be 
justly claimed that our white wines average better than 
our red and are better adapted to our lighter soils. 

SEMILLION. Synonym, Colomhar.—This is one of 
the leading Sauterne grapes. In France, it made its 
record long ago. Asa blend with this, the Sauvignon 
Blanc and the Muscadelle de Bordelais make the most 
famous of Haut Sauternes—the celebrated Chateau 
Yquem. ‘The vine is a handsome and vigorous grower 
with good and persistent foliage, very productive. Clus- 
ter long, rather loose, heavily shouldered; berry full 
medium, round, transparent, white or pale yellow, chang- 
ing to a light amver when very ripe, juicy, sweet, and 
high flavored. A perfect grape in every respect, making 
a very fine, delicate wine by itself, which is easily handled 
and keeps well. 

SAUVIGNON Bianc.. Synonym, Panechiou.—This 
grape naturally follows Semillion, being often used with 
it. It is only a moderate bearer; cluster rather small, 
shouldered ; berry below medium, pale yellow, round, 
transparent, very sweet and delicate. 

MUSCADELLE DE BorDELAIS. Synonyms, Raisinote, 
Cadillac.—Vine a strong grower but shy bearer; cluster 
small, shouldered ; berry small, slightly oblong, trans- 
parent, pale yellow, sweet, and high flavored, which 
makes it of great: value for the blend above referred to. 
It is especially cultivated for that purpose, as it would 
hardly pay otherwise. Only a small proportion of it is 
needed in a blend to impart its peculiar flavor. 

WHITE BurGuNDy. Synonyms, Chablis, Melon Blanc, 
Chardenot.—This is the celebrated wine grape of Bur- 
gundy, France, from which many of the champagnes are 
made, and also some of the best dry wines. The vine is 
a moderate. grower, with fine dark green foliage, uni- 
formly healthy and productive. Oluster medium, shoul- 


204 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


dered, compact; berry roundish oblong, pale yellow, 
below medium size, very delicate, sweet and juicy. 

SAUVIGNON VERTE.—It is questionable if this is the 
true name of this variety, but it has become so well es- 
tablished that it seems fruitless to use any.other. It is 
supposed to be Pedro Ximenes, and is also known in some 
sections as Colomhar and White Green Riesling, both 
of which are erroneous. It is one of the most produc- 
tive and hardy of all grapes, a strong grower, and as it 
starts late, not much subject to frosts. ‘These qualities 
have made it one of the leading grapes, but its wine, 
though agreeable and of fine flavor, is hard to handle and 
keep, needing a blend with some other variety. Cluster 
long, rather loose, shouldered ; berry medium, greenish- 
yellow, very juicy and thin skinned, sweet and luscious. 

These are the leading varieties of French origin which 
seem to be more perfectly at home here than the Rhenish 
varieties. There are many others, such as Roussanne, 
Marsanne and Clairette Blanche, but they are not so well 
known and esteemed. Of the Chasselas or Gutedel, we 
have three varieties of prominence—the Chasselas Fon- 
tainebleau, known and cultivated as Gutedel in Germany, 
a good and uniform bearer, making a very good, smooth 
wine, but not of the highest character; the Chasselas 
Violette or Koenigsgutedel, of which the foliage, and 
even the berries take on a brown and violet tinge when 
small, making a good wine and a great deal of it, as it is 
a good and constant bearer; the Victoria Chasselas or 
Queen Victoria, a short, stocky grower, with immense 
bunches, sometimes weighing six pounds each; berry 
round, violet, juicy and fine flavored, making an excel- 
lent wine which will improve with age. While these 
three varieties are not of the highest excellence, they are 
very useful and well deserve cultivation. 

RiEstinc.—Of the Rhenish type, making the most 
famous wines of Germany, the most prominent is the 


AND WINE MAKING, 205 


true Riesling,—Johannisberg Riesling, as it is generally 
called in California. The vine is a rather slender grower, 
with thin, deeply lobed foliage, moderately productive 
with long pruning; cluster smali, shouldered; berry 
small, round, pale yellow, sometimes changing to light 
violet when very ripe, with peculiar gray dots, very 
sweet, sprightly and high flavored ; needs long pruning. 

TRAMINER. Synonym, Rother Klaevner.—This grape 
has given high character to the wines of the Palatinate, 
and produces a high grade wine here, more full and 
smooth than, though not so sprightly as, the Riesling. 
The vine is a moderate grower and bearer, needs long 
pruning to make it productive, but is of such superior 
quality that it should be in every vineyard. Cluster 
small, compact, shouldered, resembling the Delaware of 
the East; berry oblong, small, pale red, with rather thick 
skin but a honied sweetness. 

Rep VELTLINER. Synonym, Fleischtraube.—This 
was disseminated under the name of Traminer, but it is 
an entirely different variety, requiring different treat- 
ment altogether, though the wine resembles very much 
that of Traminer, in flavor and character. The vine is 
a very abundant bearer, requiring short pruning; foli- 
age large, dark green with violet points, grayish beneath, 
a strong grower. Cluster large and heavily shouldered, 
compact ; berry below medium, slightly oval, pale red or 
violet, rather thick skin, very sweet and of fine flavor. 
It has not been widely disseminated, but when better 
known, will become one of the leading white grapes. It 
makes one of the finest liqueur wines, if allowed to hang 
on the vines until it is overripe, which its tough skin 
makes practicable, and it develops such an exquisite 
flavor that good connoisseurs have said they have tasted 
no better Haut Sauternes at $3.00 per bottle. 

FRANKEN RIESLING. Synonyms, Sylvaner, Oester- 
reicher.—This variety has been widely disseminated in 


206 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


California, and its wine is generally called Riesling, but 
it is not equal to the true Riesling in quality, lacking 
its sprightliness and high flavor. It is a valuable grape 
and a good bearer, if the true variety is obtained. Un- 
fortunately it is mixed almost everywhere with a sport — 
very closely resembling it, but which is very unproduc- 
tive. The vine is a strong grower, and with long pruning 
bears abundantly ; cluster medium, compact, generally 
shouldered; berry below medium, round, pale yeilow, 
transparent, sweet and juicy. 

ORLEANS RIESLING. Synonym, Yellow Orleans.— 
This variety will hardly class with the true Rieslings, 
as it ripens much later and the berry is double the size. 
It is, however, known by that name, and as it has many 
good qualities and makes a fine wine, it’ is worthy a 
description. ‘The vine is moderately vigorous, a com- 
pact, short-jointed grower, with pale green, deeply 
lobed foliage. Cluster large, shouldered, compact ; berry 
above medium, oblong, with firm flesh and skin; ripens 
two weeks later than the Rieslings; makes a very nice 
wine ; very productive, needs a warm soil to bring it to 
perfection. ‘There is a variety cultivated in some sec- 
tions under the name of Moselle Riesling, which as yet 
is not identified. It is claimed to be a good bearer, and 
wines tested from it have proven to be very good. 

GREEN HUNGARIAN. Synonyms, Long Green, Verte 
Longue.—This is one of the healthiest and most produc- 
tive varieties, and is very valuable. Its strong point 
is not high quality, which differs greatly in different 
localities and soils, but immense productiveness, strong 
growth and beautiful foliage, and its great ease of fer- 
mentation, which it imparts to other wines more difficult 
to ferment. It requires short, or stool pruning, as it is 
apt to overbear. Cluster long, moderately compact, 
heavily shouldered ; berry medium, round, pale greenish 
yellow ; makes a fine wine in some locations, resembling 


AND WINE MAKING. 207 


Riesling in bouquet, while in others the wine is light 
and indifferent in quality. It requires a high location 
to develop its best qualities, 

Fotte BLANCHE. Synonyms, La Folle, Enrageat.— 
This is so called in France because of its extreme pro- 
ductiveness, and it is there especially valued for making 
high flavored, delicate brandies. It fully sustains its 
reputation in that respect in California, some of the 
finest brandies being made from it. It also makes a 
good delicate, light wine, as it attains a higher degree 
of sugar thanin France. The vine is a moderate grower, 
leaf medium, thin, pale green; cluster large, with ber- 
ries of uneven size; berry oblong, small, transparently 
yellow, very juicy, covered with gray bloom. 

BurGer. Synonyms, Putzscheare, White Tokay.— 
This is another of the quantity grapes—light in saccha- 
rine, but immensely productive and valuable in the fer- 
mentation of heavier musts. It requires short pruning. 
Its foliage is very delicate, making it liable to sunscald. 
In the southern part of California and on the hillsides, 
its wine improves and becomes very palatable. The vine 
is a good grower, with thin, light-green foliage, deeply 
lobed. Cluster very large, shouldered; berry full me- 
dium, round, pale yellow, ripens late, with watery juice 
and very tender skin. It has repeatedly produced seven- 
teen tons to the acre. 


} 
GRAPES FOR SHERRY. 


The following special sherry grapes of foreign origin 
also make good dry wines: 

PALOMINO. Synonyms, Listan, erroneously called 
Golden Chasselas in Napa county.—A very valuable 
grape and a heavy bearer with short pruning. Vine vig- 
orous and hardy, foliage deeply lobed, light green, downy 
beneath ; cluster large and loose, shouldered ; berry full 
medium, round, pale yellow, juicy and sweet; makes a 


208 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


fine dry wine of good flavor, which will develop into a 
natural sherry in time. 

West’s WHITE ProLiric.—Introduced by Mr. West 
of Stockton, Cal. Its true name has never been discov- 
ered, but it evidently belongs to the Spanish type of 
grapes. ‘The vine is a good grower, and very productive 
with short or stool pruning. It makes a delicate, high 
flavored wine, also an excellent brandy, said to be equal 
to the best French Cognac. 

YELLOw MostEer.—Synonym, Formit, erroneously 
called Pedro Ximenes.—This variety evidently belongs 
to the same class as one previously described. It makes 
the Tokay, the celebrated Hungarian wine. It has been 
cultivated with varying success, succeeding well in some 
seasons, in others subject to coulure. -It is a strong 
grower, requires long pruning, and is certainly a grape 
of exquisite quality. Cluster long and loose, shouldered ; 
berry full medium, oblong, transparent, pale yellow. It 
will hang long and dry up on the vine, thus making the 
famous liqueur wine which is known as Tokay all over 
the world. 

SuLtTANA.—This is one of the famous seedless grapes 
of the Mediterranean, and is best known as a raisin grape, 
though it makes a fine, delicate, white wine, which will 
develop a sherry flavor. ‘The vine is a vigorous grower, 
and needs high stakes and long pruning to bring large 
crops. Cluster long and loose, shouldered ; berry small 
or below medium, pale-yellow and transparent, without 
seeds. 

THompson’s SEEDLESS. Synonym, Lady de Coverly. 
—This was received from the nursery of Ellwanger & 
Barry of Rochester, N. Y., by a Mr. Thompson of Sutter 
county, and was first cultivated by him. As it proved 
ashy bearer with short pruning, he gave it little atten- 
tion. Some grafts were given to Mr. Onstott, who dis- 
seminated it, after discovering that it bore heavy crops 


AND WINE MAKING, 209 


with spur pruning on long canes. It makes a splendid, 
very delicate raisin, surpassing the Sultana, to which 
the vine bears a strong resemblance. Excellent wine 
has been made from it, and it is one of the finest table 
grapes, bearing shipment to the most distant markets. 
The vine is a very strong grower of long-jointed yellow 
wood. The young canes should be pinched when they 
reach the top of the stake, to develop the laterals, on 
which it bears the best fruit the following year. The 
cluster is very large, long and loose, so that every berry 
can develop fully; berry below medium, oblong, pale 
golden yellow, transparent, without seeds, of most ex- 
quisite flavor, very juicy and sweet, with a mingling of 
sprightly acid which makes it very refreshing and 
palatable. 

These comprise the most desirable and best known of 
the varieties for white wine, and make a list comprehen- 
sive enough for any one. There are many more which 
have their admirers and advocates, such as the Chauche 
Gris; generally called Gray Riesling, the White Elben 
or Kleinbereger, Clairette Blanche, Steinschiller, Ru- 
lander, and many more. One other should be added, 
the White Muscatelle, of which the French make their 
most renowned sweet wine. It is also known as German 
Muscateller and Muscat de Frontignan. This grape has 
a pronounced Muscatelle flavor, but it is not rank or dis- 
agreeable, as in the Muscat of Alexandria, It is a strong 
grower and good bearer with long pruning. ‘The vine 
has a light green foliage, downy beneath; cluster long 
and compact, cylindrical, shouldered; berry round, 
greenish yellow, medium, very sweet when fully ripe, 
fleshy, with an agreeable flavor. Will make a good dry 
wine, which is relished by many, and if allowed to hang 
long on the vines, a good sweet wine. 


14 


210 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


FOR TABLE, MARKET AND RAISINS. 


These are classed together, as some of the best market 
grapes make good raisins, and vice versa. The growing 
and shipping of grapes to market, and the curing of 
them into raisins, are very important branches of the 
grape industry. Planting vineyards for raisins has alone 
assumed vast proportions, and especially in Fresno, San 
Diego, Tulare and other southern counties, so much so 
as to almost overshadow the wine industry. For those 
who like grape culture but who have conscientious scru- 
ples against wine making, either of these other branches 
furnishes an ample field. 

The shipping of grapes to distant markets, especially 
to the North and East, has very much increased during 
the past five years of better facilities and lower 
freights. Many varieties, excellent for the home, will 
not answer for long distance shipping. For this busi- 
ness, we must confine ourselves mostly to those varieties 
which combine an attractive appearance with a tough 
skin and a firm flesh. Quality is a secondary cqnsidera- 
tion. Most of our grapes are good for the home table, 
and in many instances the most delicate wine grapes are 
also among the choicest eating kinds. 

In the choice of varieties, climatic conditions must 
govern largely in a State where a difference of a month 
is noticed in the ripening of the same variety, though in 
localities only a few miles apart. 


FOR EARLY MARKET. 


The Chasselas Fontainebleau, commonly called Sweet- 
water, is about the earliest ripening variety, and also car- 
ries well to market. Next in ripening comes the Black 
Malvasia, so called, a strong grower and good bearer ; 
cluster heavy, compact, shouldered ; berry large, oblong, 
black, with blue bloom, tough skin, meaty and juicy 
and presenting an attractive appearance. 


AND WINE MAKING, 211 


FOR LATE MARKET. — 


The favorite for this purpose is the Flame Tokay, 
which combines fine color, handsome appearance, size 
of bunch and berry and good shipping qualities. Clus- 
ter very large, shouldered; berry very large, oblong, 
pale red, covered with violet bloom, very firm and 
meaty, . 

Buack FrerRARA.—A strong grower, and productive. 
Cluster medium, compact; berry round, black with blue 
bloom, tough skin, carries well to market. 

Biack DAamascus.—Medium grower and fair bearer. 
Cluster large, loose, shouldered; berry very large, ob- 
long, dark blue, covered with lighter. bloom, meaty, 
thick skin ; ripens late. 

Emperor.—A strong grower but rather shy bearer, 
better adapted to Southern than Northern localities, as 
it ripens late. Cluster long and loose, shouldered, very 
large ; berry large, oblong, purplish black, covered with 
fine lilac bloom, thick skin, firm. 

Buack CornucHon. The vine is a strong but stocky 
grower, leaf large and thick, deeply lobed ; cluster very 
large, loose, shouldered, with long stems; berry large, 
long, dark blue with lighter dots, fleshy, thick skin; 
very late. 

BuiacK Morocco.—This is used as a shipping grape 
in the South, not being adapted to the North, as it 
ripens late and unevenly. ‘The vine is a straggling 
grower, with many laterals which bring an abundant 
second crop. Cluster very large, compact, heavily shoul- 
dered ; berry very large, black, round, fleshy, of rather 
poor quality. 

Muscat OF ALEXANDRIA. Synonym, Muscatelle 
Gordo Blanco.—There is yet a doubt as to the identity 
of these two grapes, many claiming that the latter is 
more round in berry and a better grape. The vine isa 
low, straggling grower, an abundant bearer, often bear 


212 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ing more second than first crop; the wood is short and 
stocky. It is a leading raisin grape, both here and 
abroad, and it is also an important shipping grape. It 
carries well, looks well, and many admire its peculiar 
flavor. It is sometimes used for sweet wines, such as An- 
gelica and Muscat, but its flavor is rather too prominent. 
Cluster very long and loose, sometimes shouldered ; berry 
oblong, large, light yellow when fully matured, trans- 
parent, fleshy, with thick skin, and a very sweet, musky 
flavor ; liked by some and disliked by others. 

MataGa.—Vine a strong grower, productive. Clus- 
ter very large, loose, shouldered, long; berry very large, 
oval, yellowish green, covered with white bloom, thick 
skin, fleshy. Ripens rather early, and also makes good 
raisins. 

VeRDAL.—A strong grower with long joints, leaf 
large, deeply lobed ; cluster rather short, heavily shoul- 
dered; berry oblong, yellowish green, covered with 
white bloom; very late, productive. 

WHITE CorNICHON.—The vine is a strong and stocky 
grower, and very productive; leaf thin, light green, 
tomentose below; cluster very large, loose, with long, 
drooping shoulders; berry oblong, golden yellow with 
light dots, thick skin, fleshy and transparent; ripens 
late. 

The Sultana and Thompson’s Seedless have already 
been described. Both make the finest raisins and both 
ship well, the latter being the more showy and delicate. 
As they ripen. rather early, they come between the earli- 
est and late varieties. 

The black and white Corinths, from which the so- 
called Zante currants are made, do not succeed gener- 
ally, and the two foregoing are much preferable for seed- 
less raisins. 


AND WINE MAKING, 213 


CHAPTER XLL 


CULTIVATION OF THE VINEYARD. 


IMPLEMENTS. 


If the ground has been well prepared, it will need no 
jeep plowing the first summer after planting. Frequent 
stirring of the surface with cultivator or horse hoe, with 
an occasional loosening of the soil around the young 
plants with the hoe, will be all that is required. The 
first plowing the next spring is done with the two-horse 
plow, beginning in the center of the row and throwing 
the two middle furrows together. If the vines were 
planted 6x10 feet, take the wider rows first, running’ 
parallel with the hill, and plowing as many furrows with 
the two-horse team as can be done without injuring the 
vines; then follow with a one-horse plow and take the 
remaining furrows on each side. This will leave a very 
narrow strip along the vines, which should be loosened 
with hoe or spade. A harrow is then run over the 
plowed land, followed with a sled, drag or crusher, so 
that all the ground becomes well pulverized. For the 
second, or cross plowing, the operation is reversed—the 
single plow comes first, throwing a furrow to each 
side of the row towards the vines, and the middle is fin- 
ished out the same way with the two-horse plow. This 
should leave the land in fine condition, so that no more 
deep plowing will be needed through the summer. The 
_ surface must be kept loose and clean by the cultivator, 
and the hoe must be used to keep weeds from growing 
about the young vines. The same method is followed 
every year, except as the vines become larger we must 
wait until after pruning is finished and the clippings are 
removed, 


214 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Many implements have been invented to facilitate op- 
erations, especially in large vineyards on level lands, 
such as gang plows with two, and even four, shares to 
stir tae middle of the row. The shares are fastened to 
an iron frame with iron clamps and bolts, so that they 
can be removed at will, and throw the earth either 
toward or from the vines. These need more power, 
especially in heavy soils. They are so constructed that 
by operating a lever, they can be made to run deep or 
shallow, as preferred. Mr. H. Hortop of Rutherford, 
Napa county, has invented several useful implements 
for this work. Among them is a plow with two shares, 
running on one side of the row first and returning on 
the other, with a wheel to regulate the depth ; also a one- 
horse plow with movable beam which can be so set as to 
run very close to the vines. He has also excellent plows 
for preparing the ground, as well as cultivators specially 
adapted to the work. 


PRUNING, STAKING AND TRAINING. 


If resistant vines have been planted, but little pruning 
will be needed for the first two or three years—they 
flourish best when left undisturbed. Should they grow 
very strong the second year, the growth may be cut 
back so as to reduce the number of buds, make cultiva- 
tion easier and make stronger cuttings, if any are needed, 
but no particular system need be followed. The third 
spring, if the vines are strong enough, they may be 
grafted, following which they should be staked to sup- 
port the growth from the graft. The size of the stakes 
needed will depend on the varieties grafted. For those 
adapted to stool or spur pruning, four-foot stakes will 
answer; for half-long or short cane pruning, five-foot 
stakes, and for a few varieties requiring long pruning, 
six-foot stakes will be required. The following prices 
are paid for stakes at Napa, one and a half inches in 


AND WINE MAKING. 215 


diameter, per 1000: Four foot, $14.25; five foot, $18 ; 
six foot, $21.50. These should be pointed and driven in 
with a sledge, as close to the graft as is safe and on the 
side exposed to the prevailing winds in summer, so that 
the vine has a slight leaning against them. [If fifteen- 
inch cions have been used in grafting, the head of the 
vine can be formed at once from the three or four upper 
buds from which the shoots are allowed to grow—all 
below them should be rubbed off as soon as they appear. 
These upper shoots are then tied to the stake, very 
loosely, so as not to hinder their growth. The best and 
most economical ties are made from the common draczena, 
grown very frequently as an ornamental tree, and of 
which every vineyardist should plant a good supply. 
The dead leaves can be taken off every spring, scalded in 
hot water to make them soft and pliable, and then di- 
vided into strips, of which each leaf furnishes from three 
to five. They are stronger and better than the so-called 
grape twine, and a single tree will furnish material for 
tying three or four acres of vines. All the dracenas and 
yuccas furnish excellent material for tying, as well as 
the Phormium tenaz or New Zealand flax. The latter is 
gratuitously distributed by our State university, but re- 
quires to be planted near some spring or brook to flourish 
well, while the draczenas and yuccas will grow on dry soil. 
These details are given because thousands of dollars are 
spent annually for twine which may just as well be saved, 
_ and further, because the materials named are more con- 
venient and are not so hard on the fingers in tying. The 
next pruning after grafting, will find the vine established, 
if it was strong enough when grafted, with the head es- 
tablished where it ought to be, about a foot from the 
ground. We are now to determine definitely the plan 
of pruning to be adopted, stool or goblet, half-long or 
long, though this is supposed to be settled by the length 
of the stakes used in staking the vines. 


216 AMERIOAN GRAPE GROWING 


STOOL OR GOBLET PRUNING. 


This mode of pruning is calculated to make of each 
vine a small tree or bush, and as soon as the trunk or 
stem becomes strong enough to be self-supporting, the 
stakes may be removed to other plantations. Let us 
suppose these strong branches are grown from the three 
uppermost buds and in three different directions—if four 
and sufficiently strong, so much the better. Hach of 
these is cut back to two buds, and after pruning, the 
vine is tied firmly to the stake. For this purpose, No. 
16 annealed wire answers admirably. Cut it into proper 
lengths with shears or cold chisel, make a hook on 
each end, then pass it around the vine and hook 
the ends together, allowing space enough for the 
natural expansion by growth. When no longer needed 
they can be removed, and in other places used again and 
again. Pruning may be done at any time in the winter 
after the leaves have fallen. ‘The vine has now six or 
eight buds, from which will grow six or eight branches, 
diverging from the main head in all directions, but hay- 
ing the center open in the shape of a goblet. Each of 
these branches will bear from two to three clusters of 
fruit, according to the character of the vine, which will 
give us from twelve to twenty-four bunches. The 
branches or shoots are not tied up, but allowed to droop. 
The main point is to get the vine well balanced and open 
to sun and air. 

The next winter the vine has the double number of 
shoots or branches. It would tax too heavily the vine’s 
bearing powers to cut these back to as many spurs of 
two buds each, unless it should be very strong. There- 
fore, cut the upper shoot or branch on each original 
spur entirely away, at or just above the bunch closest to 
‘the head, and cut this back to two buds, always having 
in view the proposed shape and balance of the head. 
This sort of pruning is followed every year, with varia- 


AND WINE MAKING. 217 


tions suggested by the good sense of the pruner, who 
should be more than a machine. Summer pruning will 
be treated in a separate chapter. 

This sort of pruning is equally adapted to the heavy 
bearing varieties such as Zinfandel, Portugieser, Carig- 
nane, Mataro, Gamay, Charbonneau, Petit Bouschet, 
Red Veltliner, Chasselas Fontainebleau, Victoria Chas- 
selas, Palomino, Green oP West’s White Prolific 
and Folle Blanche. 


MEDIUM OR HALF-LONG TRAINING. 


Many varieties are not adapted to spur or stool prun- 
ing, but require a medium course. Some of these are so 
constituted that they will not fruit well from the first 
two or three buds at the base of a cane, while they will 
bear abundantly from the fourth to the tenth, and 
among these are some of the most valuable varieties. 
These should be trained to five-foot stakes, commencing 
just the same as for stool pruning, with three canes the 
next spring after grafting, but having them from 15 to 
18 inches in length. After pruning tie them firmly to 
the stake, just below the upper bud, leaving all the 
canes about the same length. When the young growth 
appears, leave one of the strongest at the base of each 
cane to form the future cane and one for a spur, rubbing 
out all the weaker buds below. When you come to the 
fourth or fifth bud, leave all the strong shoots above. 
The next spring, the old cane which has borne the fruit 
is cut off just above that destined for a spur, this reduced 
to two buds, and the strongest cane from the base 
pruned back to 15 or 18 inches. This leaves three canes 
again, which are tied to the stake as before. The canes 
for the next year’s bearing we expect from the three 
spurs, as well as another spur, cutting the old cane off 
entirely and thus renewing them every year. A modifi- 
cation of this training is to leave but one cane for bear- 


218 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ing but make it somewhat longer, with more spurs 
around the head of the vine or from the strongest later- 
als. Wire may be used for the upper tying, and a loose 
_ band of dracena passed around the middle of the canes 
to prevent their spreading when heavy with fruit. 
Varieties adapted for this training are Sauvignon 
Verte, Semillion, White Burgundy, Chauche Gris, Tram- 
iner, Chasselas Violette, White Elben, White Muscateller, 
Grosse Blaue, Mondeuse, Petit Syrah, Meunier, Tannat, 
Beclan, Valdepenas, Refosco, Gamay and many others. 
Another modification of this training, called the bal- 
loon, is sometimes used. Four canes are grown instead 
of three from opposite sides of the vine, and bent 
together in the middle, where they are fastened by a 
wire and thus made self-supporting, with most of the 
fruit hanging in the middle. This method has its ad- 
vantages and its disadvantages. The circular form in 
which the vines are bent distributes the sap more evenly, 
while in the upright training it goes more into the up- 
per buds on canes and spurs. The disadvantages are 
that it takes more room in the vineyard, does: not per- 
mit as close working, and unless the canes are of equal 
size and equally loaded, they swerve to the heavy side. 


LONG PRUNING AND TRAINING. 


Some varieties are shy bearers, even with the latter 
method of pruning, and need still longer training. The 
method is the same, the difference being only in detail. 
Six-foot stakes are used and the canes made long enough 
to reach to the top. Exception must be made of a few 
varieties which should have the young shoots for canes 
pinched during the previous summer, when they have 
reached the tops of the stakes. This forces out the lat- 
erals into stronger growth, which are then pruned back 
to two buds. The varieties bearing best under this 
treatment are Riesling, Sultana, Thompson’s Seedless, 


AND WINE MAKING, 219 


Yellow Mosler, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, 
Emperor, Trusseaux, Herbemont and Lenoir. Some of 
- these will even bear better if the old canes are left for 
permanent arms as long as they are healthy and vigor- 
ous, and all the strong shoots of the previous year cut 
back to two or three buds. A little practice and obser- 
vation will soon show what modifications are needed to 
make each variety do its best, and no wine grower can 
succeed who is not a close observer. Practice alone 
makes perfect. 

There are many other methods of training in vogue in 
Germany, France and other countries, which have been 
tried in California to some extent, but as they all more 
or less obstruct cultivation, have found little favor. 

The implements used in pruning are the best kinds of 
pruning shears and a short saw of a semicircular form, 
with teeth set toward the handle, to cut in drawing. 
The latter is used to cut out old and dry stumps and 
very heavy wood, but anyone who understands using 
pruning shears to advantage will seldom need the saw. 


SUMMER PRUNING, OR PINCHING AND SUCKERING. 


Much difference of opinion exists as to the value of 
the practice of shortening in the bearing shoots, many 
contending that it is injurious, but all agree that sucker- 
ing should be done as early as possible. This consists 
in rubbing off all shoots below the head of the vine, and 
also all the shoots which may grow from the wood of 
the previous years—shoots in the middle of the head, 
also called water sprouts, and which seldom bear any 
fruit, and also all the unfruitful shoots and double buds 
from the canes or spurs. Each well-developed bud is a 
triple one, the main or fruit bud being the central or 
longest one; the two smaller or auxiliary buds will often 
not develop at all, but if they do, only rob the main bud 
of strength. The best time to do this work is when the 


220 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


shoots have made a growth of from six to eight inches, 
when the whole vine can be looked over easily and the 
superfluous parts removed. If delayed for only a week - 
the work is doubled, and cannot be so well fone, as the 
mass of foliage obscures the work. 

T am decidedly in favor of pinching or shortening in the 
bearing shoots, if it be done early—which is the main 
point. If delayed until the young growth becomes hard 
and woody, it is decidedly detrimental. The right time 
is when the young shoots are about eighteen inches long 
and are yet tender. It makes the growth more stocky, 
develops the young fruit which is then forming more 
evenly, and brings out the laterals to shade it when it 
most needs shade. It will also prevent the blowing off of 
the shoots by high winds and make late cultivation 
easier, the vine being more compact. Those who object 
to the practice claim that it forces out too much second 
growth, which is not desirable, and that it prevents the 
setting of the fruit. These objections mainly arise be- 
cause the work is done too late—then it is injurious, 
bringing stagnation of sap and uneven ripening of fruit. 
But where the vines are topped when the young growth 
is tender, and. no more than six inches taken off, it 
aids in the even and perfect development of the young 
fruit, gently checking the sap and leading it into the 
young fruit and the dormant lateral buds. 


AND WINE MAKING. 221 


CHAPTER XLIL 
DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES, 


The common mildew (Oidiwm Tuckeri) prevails to 
some extent, but can be controlled by the use of pow- 
dered sulphur dusted over and through the vine by 
means of bellows or small wire sieves shaken by hand. 
It commonly appears after foggy weather, and the first 
application should be made when the young shoots are 
about eight inches long, or just before the bloom. A 
second application may become necessary should the dis- 
ease again appear. This will stop it effectually. 

CouLuRE, or imperfect setting of the fruit.—This 
often prevails to a considerable extent, but is, I think, | 
the consequence of mildew and can be prevented, to a 
great extent, by early and careful sulphuring. It gen- 
erally follows late rains and damp, foggy weather accom- 
panied by sultry heat. Possibly the copper mixtures 
may be of service against this, as also the ripe rot, which 
has attacked our grapes to some extent when rains have 
set in early in September. The varieties which have 
very compact bunches and tender skins are most liable 
to attack. After a rainless summer the autumnal rains 
swell the berries, and where they grow compactly, crack 
them, when myriads of fungus spores find lodgment, 
and speedy decomposition ensues. 

THE PrERoNospoRA, from which the vineyards of 
Europe have suffered seriously, and the black rot of the 
Eastern States are, so far as I am aware, unknown here. 
The most formidable malady of grapes is the so-called 
Anaheim disease, but it has not, so far, reached our 
Northern vineyards. It originated, or rather was first 
observed, at Anaheim, Orange county, hence the name. 
This disease is the more to be dreaded, as all researches 


292 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


by experts have failed to find aremedy. In its aspect, its 
sudden and deadly effects and rapid spread, it resembles 
the Eastern pear blight, and may originate in a sudden 
stagnation of sap. Lately, however, it seems to have 
spent its force, and very little is heard of its ravages. 

Brack Kwnot.—This disease, which is also called 
grape cancer, is caused by sudden stagnation of sap. 
This may be the result of excessive pruning, late frosts, 
or other causes which renders the vine powerless to elab- 
orate all the flow of sap from the roots, which therefore 
ruptures the sap vessels, stagnates and forms black ex- 
crescences, frequently causing the death of the vine. 
The remedies, or rather preventives, are longer pruning 
and the use of longer cions in grafting. It would be 
unreasonable to suppose that a vine which is vigorous 
enough to produce a hundred feet of wood in a season 
could be restricted to a dozen buds in pruning, or three 
buds in grafting, and with them perform all the func- 
tions which require as many hundred buds. When a 
vine, otherwise vigorous, is badly affected by black knot 
above ground, it is frequently saved by grafting it with 
long cions below the diseased part. 

ANTHRACNOSE, OR SPANISH MEASLES.—This does 
not prevail here to any great extent. The leaves show 
red spots, wilt and die off. An application or two of 
Bordeaux mixture is said to check it. 


AND WINE MAKING. 223 


CHAPTER XLIIL 
INSECT AND OTHER ENEMIES OF THE VINE. 


The most destructive insect is the phylloxera, which 
is fully described in the first part of this book. We also 
have most of the other insects injurious to the vine 
which are common in the East, except the grape curcu- 
lio, which has never been seen here as yet. Grasshop- 
pers have been very destructive in some sections of the 
Pacific slope, and had to be combated by the same means 
employed east of the Rockies. Some dug ditches, in 
which the grasshoppers were crushed by heavy logs 
dragged along; others kept heavy rollers moving along 
the side of the vineyard from which the invading hosts 
approached. Such visitations are very rare, however, 
and occur only at long intervals and in certain localities. 
Cutworms have been very destructive in some of the 
raisin vineyards, eating the young shoots at night. 
Thousands were poisoned by a mixture of Paris green in 
water and bran, scattered in small doses under the vines. 

Of birds, the linnet and California quail are among 
the enemies of the grape. Ground squirrels are very 
troublesome and destructive, but may be kept in check 
by poisoned wheat thrown into their holes. When they 
are not very numerous a shot gun in hands that can use 
it, is a sufficient defense. The large California hare, or 
jack-rabbit, is hard on young vines and grafts. They 
are not very numerous in the northern counties, but in 
the southern ones are such a nuisance that it is found 
necessary to start great “‘rabbit drives,” in which the 
men of an entire neighborhood take part, and thousands 
of the rabbits are killed. 


Late spring frosts, when they come, are quite destruc- 
tive, but they are mostly confined to the low lands, an 
elevation of a few feet often securing exemption. At 
times, however, they occur even on the hillsides, striking 
vineyards that have been untouched by frost for years. 
They come late in April, and sometimes as late as the 
middle of May. Raising a dense smoke in the vineyard 
during the night is advocated by some as a means of 
protection, but it has few adherents. If a general 
smudge is created in a large number of adjoining vine- 
yards, so as to fill the air with smoke, it may aid in 
repelling frost, but small, isolated efforts in this direc- 
tion are of little or no value. 

That frosty situations should be avoided for grape cul- 
ture, is self-evident. It is very disheartening to see a 
promising vineyard browned by frost in a night. Late 
pruning is advocated by some as a remedy, and not 
without reason, for the upper buds always start first, 
while the lower ones remain dormant. But if the vine 
is pruned so late every year as to cause profuse bleeding, 
it is quite likely to cause more serious injury than is 
occasioned by the partial loss of the crop once in four or 
five years. I have found long pruning in winter much 
preferable—leaving spurs of three or four buds, and also 
somewhat longer canes. Then if the frost strikes and 
kills the shoots which have started from the upper buds, 
the dormant lower ones will start into active growth, as 
will also the secondary buds on each side of the frost- 
bitten shoot, and produce a fair crop, though somewhat 
later and of smaller bunches. Should no frost come, 
the shoots which bear the fruit must be thinned out in 


AND WINE MAKING. 225 


time, the weakest being removed to avoid overloading the 
vine. In case of frost the removal of the frozen shoots 
as soon as possible will facilitate the growth from the 
dormant buds, and also keep the vine in healthier and 
more vigorous condition. This can be done well and 
expeditiously by clipping them close to the base of the 
shoots, with the small shears used in picking grapes. 
Eight years of experience with this treatment have 
shown it to be the best I have ever tried to secure a fair 
crop, even in the most frosty season. . 

Some varieties are hardier than others and start later 
in spring. These should be planted or grafted in local- 
ities subject. to late frosts. Among these varieties are 
the Sauvignon Verte, Semillion, Mataro, Marsanne and 
Green Hungarian. The Zinfandel is one of the tender- 
est, and this, as well as the Pinots, is unsuitable for 
frosty situations. 


CHAPTER XLV. 


RESTORING INFESTED VINEYARDS. 


When the phylloxera has begun its devastation in a 
block, it is, in my opinion, best to let it finish its work. 
Cultivate the vines as long as any of them will yield a 
fair crop, and then tear them all out. This is easily 
done by a pair of steady horses or mules in winter, when 
the ground is soft from rains. ‘Then plow the land 
deeply and thoroughly the following spring, and sow it 
to oats or some other grain for a year or two. After it 
has been thus well mellowed and loosened, prepare it in 
the same way as for a new vineyard, lay it off and plant, 
as described heretofore. I regard this as much better 

1 


226 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


than trying patchwork, as many have done, in planting 
non-resistant vines in place of those killed out by the 
phylloxera. It cannot reasonably be expected that a 
young vine would flourish in a soil impoverished by the 
growth, for fifteen to twenty years, of vines which took 
from the soil the same elements required by the young 
vine. . There is, in fact, no time gained by replanting 
among older vines, and it is simply impossible to obtain 
an even stand where it is practiced. Such management 
has done much to bring non-resistant vines into bad 
repute. Let the land rest fora year or two, giving it 
careful and thorough cultivation, then plant it with 
first-class roots or cuttings, and they will make better 
growth in two years than patchwork planting will make 
in four. Let the new vines attain sufficient strength, 
then graft them at or near the surface, with the best 
wood for the purpose. If it is necessary to plant sooner, 
to keep up a vineyard better, take a new piece of ground, 
and let the others have a much-needed rest. I write 
from personal experience, having tried both methods 
and seen them tried by my neighbors. 


CHAPTER XLVI. 
MARKETING GRAPES, 


The varieties suitable for the market have been de- 
scribed on foregoing pages. ‘The process of picking and 
packing may be described in few words: The grapes 
are generally picked one day and packed the next, to 
give the stems a slight wilting so they will pack more 
snugly. When picked they are carried to the packing 
house, where, the next day, all small, imperfect or dam- 


AND WINE MAKING. 227 


aged berries are clipped out with small scissors, and the 
bunches packed in five-pound baskets, which are put 
into slatted crates, to admit plenty of air. The grapes 
must be well colored, and ripe, but not overripe. If 
they are not fully ripened the stems and berries wilt too 
much, and will not present the same handsome appear- 
ance as fully ripe grapes. The more the natural 
bloom is preserved in handling, the better the grapes will 
look and sell. 

Judging by the latest advices I have received from 
parts of Texas, Arizona and New Mexico, 1 deem it the 
best policy for California vineyardists to cultivate the 
late varieties for market, as those regions can bring in 
ripe grapes in June and July, and thus control the early 
markets, while some sections of California can furnish 
grapes fresh from the vines as late as December and even 
the early part of January. Successful marketing of 
grapes may be summed up somewhat as follows: 

1. Market the grapes when they are in the best 
condition. , 

2. Grow the best and most attractive varieties. 

3. Handle and pack carefully, and send to market 
over the best and quickest route. 

4, Get them to market at the right time, at home or 
abroad, and in the most convenient and attractive 
packages. 

5. Supply a fine article throughout and establish a 
good name, 


228 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER XLVIL 
RAISIN MAKING. 


As remarked before, we have but few varieties of 
grapes with the qualities for making fine raisins. Of 
those with large berries there are but two: the Muscat 
of Alexandria, or Muscatelle Gordo Blanco, and the 
Malaga. Authorities are still in doubt whether the 
Muscat or Muscatelle, and Gordo Blanco are identical. 
It is claimed by some that the Muscatelle has a rounder 
and sweeter berry, sets better, and that the berries are 
more uniform in size. I do not claim to be an authority 
in this matter, but leave it as it stands, and refer the 
readers to the very elaborate work of Prof. Gustave 
Eisen on the Raisin Industry of California. The Mal- 
aga also has a large berry, but without the musky flavor 
of the Muscat. The latter is, however, the leading vari- 
ety, from which all the largest and most showy raisins 
are made, the musky flavor being rather an attraction to 
most palates. Fresno is the banner county of the raisin 
industry, where immense vineyards of raisin grapes have 
been planted within recent years, some parties planting 
as many as two to four hundred acres in a single season. 
While Fresno is the leading county, a good many raisin 
grapes are grown in Tulare, Kern, San Diego, Ventura 
and Yolo counties, while Yuba and Sutter have more or 
less. As it is claimed that an average crop is from 
eight to ten tons per acre, it is difficult to foresee what 
will be the outcome of this rapid rush into an industry 
which has scarcely become established or organized. 
There is reason for grave fears of overproduction and 
ruinously low prices. For the last two years they have, 
fortunately perhaps, had only. partial crops, yet the 
market is already glutted. Should all the young vine- 


AND WINE MAKING, 229 


yards come into bearing and produce full crops, it is dif- 
ficult to see how prices could be maintained sufficient to 
cover the cost of production. 

The culture of the Muscat and the process of drying 
into raisins, as pursued in California, are very simple. 
The vine is, perhaps, the most dwarfish of all varieties 
and is grown with very low heads, only about one foot 
high, which when once formed are cut back to spurs, as 
heretofore described in stool or goblet pruning. Thus 
the bunches of the first crop hang around the head, or 
stool, sometimes resting on the ground. In that dry, 
sandy soil the vines are generally irrigated once or twice 
during the summer, for which purpose the soil must 
have been leveled and ditched before planting. The 
Muscat has a strong tendency to bear a second crop from 
the laterals—sometimes as heavy as the first, but ripen- 
ing much later. The first crop is ordinarily ripe about 
the middle or last of August. The process of curing 
them is thus described by the late R. B. Blowers, one of 
the veterans in the business: 

‘‘The grapes should be allowed to remain on the vine 
until quite ripe, showing a yellowish or golden color, and 
becoming quite translucent. Then they should be care- 
fully picked and placed upon a drying tray, usually two 
by three feet in size, made of light lattice work, and 
exposed with an inclination toward the sun, between the 
rows of the vineyard. After being sufficiently exposed 
to become about half dry they are turned by two men, 
who take an empty tray, place it on a full one, holding 
them together firmly, and with a swinging motion turn 
them over, replacing the turned grapes in their former 
position. ‘This should be done in the morning, before 
the dew is quite dried off; then, when they have become 
so dry as to lose their ashy appearance, some being a 
little too green and others quite dry enough, they are, 
after removing those that are entirely too green, slid 


230 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


from the trays into large sweat boxes, having a thick 
sheet of paper between every twenty-five or thirty pounds 
of raisins; then they are removed to the storeroom, 
where they should remain two weeks or more. When 
ready to pack, it will be found that those which were 
too moist, have parted with their surplus moisture, 
which has been absorbed by the stems and drier raisins, 
The stems are now tough, and the raisins soft and ready 
to pack. They are carefully placed in frames made of 
iron or steel, the large and fair ones being carefully 
placed in the bottom of the frames and the surplus stems 
and berries cut away; then the average raisins are ar- 
ranged in and weighed, placing five pounds in each 
frame, and pressed, but not enough to break the skins. 
They are then passed to an inspector, who examines the 
exposed sides of the raisins, removing all imperfect ones, 
then placing the wrapper paper on the frame, holds it in 
place with a wooden or steel plate, turns it bottom up, 
drops the left end into the box, slides the plate quickly 
from under the raisins, and they drop into the box; 
then pressing slightly upon the movable bottom of the 
frame, the frame is removed. The bottom of the frame 
is then pressed more firmly, to cause the raisins to fill 
the space formerly occupied by the sides and ends of the 
frame ; then it is removed, and the face of the latter is 
exposed, all imperfect or too wet berries are removed, 
and all vacancies or hollows filled with large, loose 
raisins. The label of the proprietor is then placed on 
the face, the ends of the wrapper and the sides are folded 
over, the box cover is nailed on, and they are ready for 
market.” 

There is a difference of opinion yet among raisin 
growers as to whether irrigation is absolutely necessary. 
The irrigationists claim that the berries are larger, 
more uniform and showy; while the other side claims 
finer flavor, more sugar, and more delicate bloom, Not 


AND WINE MAKING. - 231 


being a raisin grower myself, I am unable to decide who 
is right, but most of the raisins so far have been pro- 
duced under a system of irrigation. Judging from othet 
fruits, I am inclined to the latter opinion; although 
irrigation may produce more pounds, I would suppose 
quality to be with the non-irrigated article. 

The Sultana and Thompson’s Seedless belong to an 
entirely different class of grapes, and require different 
treatment. The vines are strong growers, and require 
long pruning and high stakes to produce well, but under 
this treatment they are immense bearers, as single vines 
have been known to produce over one hundred pounds, 
They have the further advantage of drying much more 
quickly and easily, having much smaller berries and 
loose bunches. They are also much more delicate, with 
a pure flavor, and a slight mingling of acidity, which 
makes them much more sprightly. They are therefore 
admirably suitable for cooking purposes, especially as 
they have thin skins and no seeds. As they are earlier 
than the Muscat, and will dry in half the time, they 
may be grown further north than that variety can be 
expected to succeed. Furthermore, they make an excel- 
lent, delicate white wine, and are delightful as table 
fruit, while the Muscat wine and fruit are too feline to 
suit all palates. On the whole they are decidedly pref- 
erable, at least for Northern localities; and of the two, 
judging from present experience, the Thompson is the 
- finest and most productive. ‘The little seedless raisins 
made from these varieties are stemmed, when dry, and 
packed loosely, either in small sacks or pressed into neat 
boxes for the trade. If it were not for the American 
propensity for ‘*big things,” I would predict larger and 
more profitable sales for them as soon as they become 
better known, than for the Muscat raisins. The little 
white and black grapes of Zante and Corinth, of which 
the currants of commerce are made, have not feund 


232 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


much favor here, and there is no reason why they should. 
The varieties referred to above are immeasurably superior 
to the dirty imported product, which has only the very 
questionable recommendation of being ‘far fetched and 
dear bought. xf 

It is an open question whether it is better to dry by 
sun or artificial heat in a dryer. Without discussing 
the question we may rejoice in the undisputed fact that 
we can make raisins without artificial heat. 

Since the beginning of the raisin industry manifold 
improvements have been made in selecting, curing and 
packing in an attractive style, and California raisins are 
now fully equal, if not superior, to the best imported 
brands, and they can be produced as cheaply. American 
ingenuity has brought out many machines and appli- 
ances, by means of which enough more can be accom- 
plished to overcome the competition of cheap foreign 
labor. The only apparent danger which threatens the 
industry is the imminent one that overproduction may 
force prices down below cost. Whether the combina- 
tions which have been entered into by the growers and 
manufacturers will suffice to avert this, remains to be 
seen. We can only hope for the best. 


AND WINE MAKING 233 


CHAPTER XLVIIL 


OTHER USES OF GRAPES, 


DRIED GRAPES. 


When the prices of wine and wine grapes went down 
so low, a few years ago, that wine making was no longer 
profitable, the drying of wine grapes for culinary pur- 
poses was resorted to, on a somewhat limited scale. It 
was found that three tons of fresh grapes would make a 
ton of dried, which could be packed in plain white sacks 
and shipped for cooking or making wine. Many low- 
grade grapes were thus dried and shipped to the East, 
where they were sold for an average of about three cents 
per pound. Such dried grapes are very nice, and many 
were thus utilized. But the movement proved to be 
only a makeshift, as the dried grapes replaced many 
other fruits in the kitchen, and interfered with their 
sale, while the wine made from them in the East, where 
water and sugar were added to increase the wine product, 
also interfered with the sale of our pure wines made 
from grape juice alone. Finally, it proved difficult in 
the North to dry our juicy wine grapes, when a sudden 
shower would sometimes come at the inopportune time 
and spoil them. So it has been gradually abandoned, 
until very little is heard of it to-day. 


CONDENSED MUST. 


Another of the expedients attempted with a view to 
making a market for our grapes in seasons of low prices, is 
to partially evaporate the must and ship the condensed 
product. The Spring-Muehl system, which is calcu- 
lated to work up large quantities, is a process for con- 
densing the fresh must of the grapes, especially red vari- 
eties, in a vacuum pan, to about one-third of its volume ; 


234 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


then mixed with the fresh pomace of the grapes, in bar- 
rels, it is shipped abroad, for wine making. In England 
and other countries water is added, and the whole re- 
fermented into wine. It is claimed that quite as good 
wine can be made there from this material as from fresh 
grapes, and this claim would seem to be reasonable. 
But the first shipments were only partially successful, 
as the must began to ferment on the way. Later ship- 
ments have given better satisfaction, yet the process has 
not given as good results as were hoped for. The busi- 
ness has not attained any considerable magnitude, though 
the reduced cost of transportation secured by it, is ap- 
parently in its favor. 


GRAPE MILK, OR UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE. 


To those who have conscientious scruples against the 
use of fermented wine, however pure, this has been 
offered as a substitute. Fermentation is suppressed by 
the use of sulphur, salycilic acid, or some other chemical 
agent, best known to those who make it. None of them 
are entirely harmless, being more or less injurious to 
health. For obvious reasons I do not recommend them ; 
and that pure, fermented wine is far more wholesome, 
all authorities agree. Yet itis worthy of mention here, 
for a considerable amount of it is made and consumed 
by the public under the idea that it is harmless. The 
product of our vineyards is doubtless as good, and per- 
haps better than the similar article manufactured at the 
East as “‘Sweet Concord” or ‘‘ unfermented” wine. 

GRAPE SYRUP. : 

This is the pure juice of the grape, simply condensed 
by boiling, and is certainly far preferable to the last- 
mentioned article. Moreover, it can be made to serve 
the same purposes by diluting with water. It has the 
additional advantage of easier and cheaper transporta- 
tion, provided it is properly managed in boiling down. 


AND WINE MAKING, 235 


Both products retain, to a certain extent, the pleasant 
acidity and the sugar contained in the grape, yet neither 
can compare for refreshing, invigorating qualities, with 
pure, fermented wine, and are only poor substitutes 
for it. 

THE GRAPE CURE. 

The State of California has numerous summer and 
health resorts, where the wealthy and wearied denizens 
of the cities go with their families, during the warm 
months, to recruit their energies, impaired by the activ- 
ities of business.and city life. Yet strangely little has 
ever been done, either by the managers of the summer 
resorts or the physicians, to bring grapes into consump- 
tion as a hygienic agent. They are the most healthful 
fruit known, and are universally recognized as such in 
Europe, and recommended by the most eminent physi- 
cians. Yet a hygienic article of diet would seem to be 
more needed on this dyspeptic continent than in any 
part of Europe. Thousands flock annually to vine- 
growing districts of the Rhine, the Danube and the 
Moselle, for the grapes, which are regarded as a univer- 
sal remedy for impaired digestion, and diseases of the 
bowels and kidneys. Each one begins with half a pound 
daily, eaten fresh from the vines, increasing gradu- 
ally to four or five pounds a day, before the season is 
over. Is it not strange that here, where so many suffer 
from gastric derangement, and the remedy is at their 
door, pure, fresh and palatable, it is so little used, and 
so rarely recommended by physicians? If the proprie- 
tors of our summer resorts would each have a few acres 
of vineyard, which would furnish their guests with 
grapes at all times through the autumnal months, fresh 
and cool every morning, it would be safe to predict that 
their mineral waters would enjoy greater celebrity and 
their resorts more popularity. But as long as Americans 
subsist on hot biscuit, pies and divers abominations from 


236 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


the frying pan, washed down with scalding tea or coffee, 
or whisky and poor brandy, so long will it continue to 
be a nation of dyspeptics. When in place of these, good, 
simple, wholesome fare is their daily food, and sound, 
pure, light wines their daily beverage, we may hope for 
an improvement in the public health. Especially will 
this be likely if the dietetic change is accompanied by 
judicious exercise, walking and horseback riding. 


CHAPTER XLIX. 
WINE MAKING IN CALIFORNIA. 


This is quite a different matter from making wine in 
the States east of the Rocky mountains. The grapes 
are of a widely different species, and the climate is 
wholly unlike any other on the continent. Our dry 
summers mature our grapes and develop a sufficient 
amount of sugar to make good, sound, dry wine, without 
resort to the practices of Gall, Petiol and others, so nec- 
essary in the Kast. Our grapes do not contain an excess 
of either flavor or acids, and usually supply a perfect 
must, which needs no manipulation aside from being 
well fermented and kept in a cool cellar, to develop into 
a good, sound wine. We have suffered more from im- 
proper and interrupted fermentation than from all other 
causes. It is those which have given a bad reputation 
to our lower grades of wine and led to the hasty conclu- 
sions arrived at by some of our sot disant experts that 
**wine could be made anywhere, even under an old shed 
or an oak tree.” Such talk has done more harm to the 
industry than all the competition it has met with from 
abroad. Ina State where every little valley has its own 
climate, and where the product and temperature vary so 


AND WINE MAKING, 237 


greatly, it becomes necessary to take into account all 
thase differences, weigh them rationally, and conform 
the treatment of the young must to them. 

The construction of the cellar and the fermenting 
room is the first object for consideration. The cellar 
for keeping the wine, after it is fermented, should 
be under ground, so as to maintain an even temper- 
ature the year around. Our hillsides afford abun- 
dant good and convenient sites for cellars, and the 
northern slope of a hill inclining toward the south 
or southeast, would be my choice. If building stone 
is conveniently attainable, that is, of course, the best 
and most durable material. In its absence good double 
walls of redwood or concrete may be used. The en- 
trance to the cellar should be level with the lower side 
of the slope upon which the house is built, so that any 
water which may find access in winter can drain off. 
From this the slope should rise twelve or fourteen 
feet, so that all but the front of the lower story shall 
be wholly below the ground. The width and length 
must depend upon the capacity desired. Forty feet 
wide by sixty feet long will give ample room for thirty 
thousand gallons, which may be increased to forty 
thousand if thousand-gallon casks are used for the lower 
tier, with smaller casks on top of them. This will 
admit of four rows of thousand-gallon casks, five on 
each side, two rows in the middle, and one at the end, 
with walks in and around the middle, ample room for 
racking and working, and necessary space to get around 
the casks next to the walls. ‘These casks should be of 
oak, as that wood is much better for keeping wine of 
any kind. New oak casks can be bought for seven to 
eight cents per wine gallon, though second-hand casks 
in good condition can often be obtained at much lower 
rates, and are even preferable to new, provided they have 
been kept sweet and in good condition, 


238 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


The second story designed for a fermenting room is of 
the same length and width as the cellar, and ten feet 
high in the clear. Stone is the best material for the 
walls, but if necessary they may be built of redwood, 
double walls, or filled in with sawdust or some other non- 
conducting material. ‘The entrance is at the opposite 
end from that to the cellar, so as to bring it on a level 
with the upper part of the slope, and thus hoth may be 
entered from the ground. The earth excavated from 
the cellar may be used to bank up against the side walls 
of the second story. This second floor will afford room for 
a row of fermenting tanks all around the sides, and one in 
the middle, with walks between in which to perform the 
pumping, racking, etc. The fermenting tanks may be 
of redwood or oak, comparatively shallow for the breadth. 
Tanks ten feet wide and four feet deep will hold about 
two thousand wine gallons each. Redwood tanks will 
cost about two and a half cents a gallon. Of course the 
capacity can be increased by increasing the depth, but 
fermentation is much more thorough in shallow tanks 
with free circulation of air, than in deeper ones, where, 
besides the retarded fermentation, there is liability of 
heating the pomace. The floor of the second story 
should be double, of very strong planks, the sleepers rest- 
ing on heavy timbers extending lengthwise, with a double - 
row, ten feet from each wall, supported by strong pillars 
based on broad stones, as they have to sustain all the 
superincumbent weight. This is as good as arching, and 
much cheaper. A layer of tarred paper is generally 
placed between the floors, to prevent leakage to the room 
below. Ventilation of both stories is secured by holes 
left in the wall, which may be opened or closed at will 
from the outside. Strong doors, either double folding 
doors or one sliding door, wide enough to admit the 
large casks and fermenting vats, for both rooms, com- 
plete the outside arrangements. Inside, large beams of 


AND WINE MAKING, 239 


sawed timber, six by eight inches, lald about three feet 
apart lengthwise, and resting on crosspieces, form the 
foundations for the casks and vats. There will be room 
enough under the roof, above the middle of the second 
story, for the crusher, stemmer, pumps, elevator, and 
all the machinery needed. ‘Twenty feet wide of flooring 
extending the length of the building and properly sup- 
ported, will afford all the space needed. The machinery 
may be operated by steam or by hand. The two rows of 
fermenting vats on each side will suffice to receive all 
the crushed grapes, and a row of casks or tanks with 
double bottoms may be placed in the center of the fer- 
menting room, into which the young wine can be 
pumped as soon as fermentation is complete. From 
these it can be conducted, by means of hose, into the 
casks below, immediately after the first racking, which 
should be done as soon as it has deposited most of the 
lees and become quiet and transparent. ‘There are sey- 
eral establishments in the State which manufacture the 
machinery for wine making, in sufficient variety to suit 
a large or small business. One of the most complete is 
that of Mr. Heald, of Benicia, Solano county. 


PICKING THE GRAPES. 


The grapes must be fully ripe, but how ripe depends 
somewhat on the character of the wine to be made. For 
the common grades of clarets and white wines they are 
ripe enough when the stems become brown, and the berries 
evenly colored and translucent. But the best test is the 
saccharometer, of which Balling’s is the scale most com- 
monly used, and of which one degree is about equal to 
four degrees of Oechsle’s, which is generally used in the 
East and in Germany. Whenever our common grapes 
show 22° to 24° Balling, they are considered ripe enough 
to make good dry wine. But when it is desired to make 
a Haut Sauterne from such varieties as Sauvignon, 


240 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Semillion, Chablis or Veltliner, or a high-grade Bur- 
gundy, they should be allowed to hang longer, until 
some of the berries are shriveled, and they show from 
26° to 32° Balling. There is a growing taste and increas- 
ing demand, among the American public, for full-fla- 
vored, heavy wines, retaining a slight degree of sweet- 
ness when fermented. Manifestly it costs more to make 
such wines, but if the consumer is willing to pay for the 
extra labor, smaller yield and higher quality, we can 
make them. It is only recently that there has been 
much inducement offered by the trade or the public for 
making them. But for about a thousand gallons of this 
grade, made in 1893, we had no difficulty in obtaining 
double the price of common dry wines, as they proved 
equal, in quality and bouquet, to the finest Haut Sau- 
terne. That convinced me that we can fully rival the 
French in this. 

The vintage begins with us, in Napa county, about 
the 15th of September, and continues, with slight inter- 
missions, until some time in November, or even until 
the first week in December, if there are no severe frosts, 
and the second crop of grapes has fair weather in which 
to ripen. In young, vigorous vineyards, and with some 
varieties, this crop is almost as heavy as the first, though 
not as high in quality. We generally have a few showers 
of rain in September, which have some influence on the 
crop. A few light rains are beneficial, as they freshen 
the fruit and promote a more active fermentation. But 
if the rains continue, ripe-rot is likely to ensue, which is 
deleterious, especially on the red grapes, though white 
grapes are little, if any, injured. It is even held, by the 
best authorities in Europe, that this so-called ‘noble 
rot” (Hdelfeule) improves the quality of white wines, 
and that the choicest vintages are made from such grapes. 
Of course they must be picked before any acetic acid has 
developed in the berries. With black grapes, however» 


AND WINE MAKING. 241 


ripe-rot is regarded as injurious, for it diminishes color 
and tannin. All black grapes stricken with ripe-rot 
must be carefully removed as they are picked. 

Grapes are here picked into boxes holding forty to 
fifty pounds each, which are carried, as fast as filled, to 
the avenues dividing the blocks. ‘Thence they are con- 
veyed, in wagons, to the winery, and crushed as soon as 
they arrive. Most of the larger wineries have stemmers 
and crushers combined, where the stems are removed 
first, and drop before they are carried into the crusher. 
Any attempted description of the different machines 
used in this State would lead beyond the limits of this 
book. Suffice it to say that some wineries have appara- 
tus which enables them to prepare the material for mil-' 
lions of gallons of wine, within six weeks. Others are 
content to make from: 10,000 to 25,000 gallons with a 
common hand crusher, and a screen for a stemmer, 
upon which the bunches are rubbed, the berries falling 
below. Some even do the work without stemming. As 
a general thing the wines made in these smaller cellars 
are of superior quality, because they are more carefully 
and skillfully handled than those in the large cellars. In 
those it is often impossible to grade and watch the prod- 
uct sufficiently to secure the highest quality. It is 
from the smaller cellars, where the proprietor personally 
watches and manipulates everything, that we must con- 
_ tinue to expect our choicest product. 


MAKING WHITE WINE. 


The process of making white wine is materially differ- 
ent from that of making red wine. In white wines we 
desire smoothness and delicacy ; in red wine, color and a 
certain proportion of tannin and astringency. To make 
wine from the light-colored varieties, which are the 
white wine grapes proper, is a very simple matter. In 
crushing the grapes into a fermenting vat the crusher 

t6 : a 


242 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


must be adjusted to break the skins without crushing 
the stems and seeds, as they would impart too much 
tannin. The whole mass is then generally allowed to 
stand from twelve to twenty-four hours, until fermenta- 
tion sets in, and then pressed as dry as possible. To 
facilitate this, the juice is drawn off first through a spigot 
in the bottom of the vat, and the must filled into barrels, 
puncheons or casks in the fermenting room, which, how- 
ever, should not be quite full, as a precaution against 
ranning over. Some makers, who aim for a very deli- 
cate wine, press immediately after crushing, but I regard 
it as safer to allow it to first begin fermentation. The 
fermenting room should be kept at a temperature of 60° 
to 70°, and as soon as violent fermentation is over, which 
will generally be at the end of four to six days, the casks 
should be filled up with the same must, kept in a sepa- 
rate cask, which is closed lightly to guard against flies 
and impurities. As long as carbonic acid gas escapes 
there is no danger for the young wine, but when it be- 
comes quiet it should be closed, though not firmly at 
first. In six weeks or two months the sediment will be 
deposited and the wine become transparent, when it is 
to be racked off into casks in the cellar, taking care to 
keep back as much as possible all the lees. Rather put 
the cloudy wine, which runs last, into a separate pack- 
age, than run it with the clear wine. From this time 
on it is important to keep the casks well filled, and 
closed air-tight with round oak or maple bungs. 


MAKING WHITE WINE FROM BLACK GRAPES. 


This is not practiced as much as formerly, because 
the Mission and Malvasia, which formerly occupied a 
large part of our vineyards, have almost disappeared and 
are not valued for wine making. We have some other 
varieties—Zinfandel in the valley lands, for example— 
and also the Black Pinot, which will hardly give color 


AND WINE MAKING. 243 


enough without taking off the first run of the juice. 
Immediately after the grapes are crushed they are either 
pressed very lightly, or the juice is run off without 
pressing and filled into casks to ferment as white wine. 
The pomace is then thrown into the fermenting vat and 
treated as red wine. I do not recommend this practice 
under any other than the exceptional conditions men- 
tioned above. The first run of the juice is generally 
the best in quality, and while the red wine may gain in 
color and astringency, it will lose in soundness and qual- 
ity. Location is all-important for the finest wines. A 
really fine red wine cannot be expected, save from a soil 
rich in iron and other essential elements. On such 
- soils there will be no deficiency in sugar, color and 
tannin, nor in fine flavor, if all the juice is fermented 
together. 


MAKING RED WINE. 


The process of making red wine is quite distinct, and 
from different material, yet the difference is not as great 
as many suppose. Formerly the public taste was—or 
was supposed to be—in favor of very dark, astringent 
wines, containing the greatest possible amount of tannin. 
This, in the opinion of our wine makers, required long 
fermentation on the skins,.and red grapes were often 
left for two weeks in the fermenting vat, until they had 
become entirely quiet, and a heavy crust had formed on 
the top, sometimes moldy and acid. ‘True, these wines 
were very rough, provided they did not spoil altogether. 
The result was loss of bouquet and of all the better 
qualities a fine red wine ought to possess, and nothing 
was added to the color, which will be acquired by a fér- 
mentation of four or five days. These flat, rough wines 
have done more to damage the reputation of California 
wines than anything else. Fortunately a better and 
more discriminating taste prevails, and the public re- 


244 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


quirement is for smooth, full-bodied wines, of sprightli- 
ness and bouquet. With proper management we can 
make them from the varieties of grapes now at our com- 
mand. Of the processes of fermentation by means of 
false bottoms, in closed casks, and others which have 
their advocates, I have found none better than the sim- 
ple treatment of fermenting in open vats, which I have 
practiced while I have been in the State. The grapes 
are crushed into the vat, and left there until fermenta- 
tion ensues, which is generally in from twelve to twenty- 
four hours, according to the temperature. The entire 
mass should be evened out, so that the berries are sub- 
merged in the liquid. As soon as active fermentation 
appears they should be thoroughly stirred three or four 
times a day, so that no crust can form, and they are 
kept wholly submerged. This is the main point,— 
frequent working, so that no part of the mass has a 
chance to develop acetic acid. Fermentation will set in 
rapidly and violently, but it generally subsides the fourth 
or fifth day, when the seething mass will lose its pun- 
gency and sweetness, and become quiet and cooler. 
Draw some of the young wine, and if it has acquired a 
slight bitterness, now is the time to draw off the fluid 
from below into fresh casks, and press the pomace. 
Even if it should retain a slight sweetness, as is usual 
with rich musts, it is better to rack it than to let it be- 
come flat in the vat. A slight fermentation will con- 
tinue in the cask, all the saccharine will be changed to 
alcohol, and the fine bouquet and freshness aimed for 
will be developed. If it changes its character and color 
every week for the next month or so, no harm is done. 
This is a peculiarity of young red wines, and they come 
out all right if the casks, vats, and everything else have 
been kept sweet and clean. It is, in fact, one of the 
most important conditions of wine making that every- 
thing is kept scrupulously clean, 


AND WINE MAKING. 245 


The after treatment is about the samo wo for white 
wines, or like that described in the first part of this 
book. There is this difference, however, that the Cali- 
fornia wines, being pure juice of the grape, contain 
more gluten and albumen than gallized or petiotized 
wines, and therefore require more time to become clear 
and matured. ‘This is especially true of our white wines, 
which do not contain as much tannin, and thus have 
arisen complaints that they become cloudy when shipped 
long distances, and do not keep well. The remedy, or 
rather, preventive, is frequent racking. After the first 
racking in November or December, there should be 
another in fair weather in February or March. If they 
are then perfectly clear and limpid and remain so until 
the beginning of May, they may perhaps be trusted to 
lie through the summer, but generally it is best to rack 
them again early in May. In most cases, however, they 
are sold to a dealer when six months old, which obviates 
this necessity. The latter is, perhaps, the best course, 
if a fair price can be obtained. 

Of Haut Sauternes and heavy Burgundies I have 
already made mention. ‘Their treatment is the same as 
for other red wines, only we do not wait for all sweetness 
to disappear. But when violent fermentation is over 
they are racked from the fermenting vats, and the Haut 
Sauternes are left in the cask until they have become 
clear. Such wines are so heavy in alcohol, developed by 
fermentation fromthe sugar they contain, that there 
less liability of clouding or other trouble. 


FORTIFIED WINES. 


The so-called ‘“‘sweet” wines are, in fact, not true 
wines,—that is, pure fermented juice of the grape. All 
have alcohol in some form added to them, increasing 
their strength and keeping them in that sweet condition 
so palatable to many, As I know little about them, my 


246 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


notes upon them will necessarily be brief. They are of 
four kinds: port, sherry, Angelica and sweet Muscat, 
The last two are made in a similar manner. Angelica is 
made from the first run of the juice of Mission grapes; 
sweet Muscat from Muscat of Alexandria, and a finer 
grade from the German Muscatelle or Frontignan. The 
grapes are allowed to hang until very ripe, then crushed 
and immediately pressed ; then a gallon of quicklime is 
added to every hundred gallon weight, and about a quart 
of grape brandy to each gallon of the must. These addi- 
tions are made in an open vat, and the liquid is allowed 
to stand until it is clear, which, as the wine and brandy 
suppress fermentation, is generally in two or three days. 
It is then racked into casks, as all the lees have settled 
to the bottom, and with another racking in two months 
is ready for use, although it becomes more mellow 
with age. 

Port is commonly made from the red wine of Mission 
and Malvasia grapes, though other red wines are also 
used. The Trousseau makes the finest port of any. 
The fluid is fortified by adding brandy or alcohol up to 
23 or 24 percent. Grape syrup, made by boiling down 
sweet must, is also added. 

Sherry is made in a similar manner, fortified, but not 
made so sweet, and then kept in a room or oven heated 
to a temperature of 140° to 160° for about six weeks, 
This gives it the peculiar aged taste and flavor which 
many admire. This is quite different from the methods 
employed in Spain. ‘There, special varieties of grapes 
are used and the sherry flavor is acquired from them, 
and from being aged in 4odegas, or storage houses, for a 
number of years. It is scarcely to be expected that this 
method will ever be generally followed in this country, 
as our people have not the patience to wait ten or twelve 
years for results. But we have many of the best sherry 
grapes which will develop the true flavor in a few years, 


AND WINE MAKING. 247 


Even our common Mission grapes will do so, and the 
riper the grapes are when crushed the sooner this flavor 
will appear. We have made a very fine natural sherry 
from the Louisiana, ripened until the must showed 32°, 
It retains quite enough sweetness, and is as much supe- 
rior to the artificial sherries as a fine Haut Sauterne is 
to the fortified Angelica and Muscat. In this matter, 
as in many others, there is a wide field for experiment. 


SPARKLING WINES. 


These are made both after the French method of de- 
veloping carbonic acid gas in the bottle, which requires 
age, and also by the speedy method of charging the wine, 
A third method, now pursued by the California Cham- 
pagne Company, is the Reihlen process, of creating the 
gas in the cask, which gives the speediest and best results, 
All the wines made by this process seem to have a last- 
ing mousseux, a pure flavor and sprightliness, equal to 
good French or German sparkling wines, and are sold at 
about half the price. Mr. Arpad Hareszthy has the old- 
est establishment in the State in which the mousseux is 
developed in the bottle, and his wines, after long exper- 
imenting, seem to give general satisfaction. There are 
several other establishments in the State, and we may 
confidently hope that, when proper blending and manip- 
ulation have been fully studied, this branch of the busi- 

ness will attain much larger dimensions in the future. 


448 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


CHAPTER L. 
BRANDY. 


A great deal of brandy may be made of the wash, lees 
and pomace, but such is not always of the desired fine 
quality. The best brandy in California has been made 
from West’s White Prolific and Folle Blanche. The 
latter forms the basis of all the fine Cognacs of France. 
Were it not for the revenue laws, which make distilling 
a perplexing business to engage in, even for the strictly 
honest distiller, while the rogues do not find it very dif- 
ficult to circumvent them in one way or another, the 
manufacture of brandy would afford some relief to those 
who have a surplus of wines. As it is, after paying 
ninety cents a gallon and incurring all the risk of evap- 
oration and leakage, while the product is stored in goy- 
ernment bonded warehouses, there is little profit left 
after selling the brandy at $1.35 or $1.40 per gallon. It 
requires five gallons of wine on an average to produce a 
gallon of brandy, and besides, there are the labor and 
fuel. That we can make as good brandy here as any- 
where has been repeatedly proved. ‘That our brandy is 
better than the cheap whiskies and brandies manufac- 
tured abroad and brought here is also a conceded fact. 
But where is the inducement to make it at forty-five to 
fifty-five cents a gallon above the internal revenue tax ? 
It is the old, old story: that home production is discour- 
aged and suppressed in every possible way; and that 
‘‘far-fetched and dear bought” find ready demand, while 
home products go begging for a market. England, Ger- 
many and the northern countries are our best customers 
now. ‘They can appreciate what we make, while our 
own countrymen turn up their noses at anything which 
has not a foreign label. 


AND WINE MAKING, — 249 


CHAPTER LL 
A FEW NECESSARY CELLAR IMPLEMENTS, 


Besides casks, barrels and kegs of various sizes, of 
_ which the smaller ones can be placed upon and between 
the larger to save room, many other appliances are 
needed. Faucets of different sizes for racking, rubber 
hose with couplings which can be screwed to the faucets, 
and pumps, are among the things needed. The pump 
most commonly in use is the Challenge, which may 
easily be worked by one man. A small jack-screw for 
lifting heavy casks, is also a convenience. A few buck- 
ets, made of strong tin, smaller at the top than at the 
bottom, with a spout on one side and a handle on the 
other; tubs to be used in racking; a filling can, with a 
long spout bent down at the farther end, used to keep 
the casks full; and rods to be used in stirring the wine 
when fining becomes necessary, are required in every 
cellar. Other implements, which have been described 
in @ previous chapter, are as useful here as in the Hast. 


250 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


OHAPTER LIL 
CLARIFICATION, FILTERING AND FINING. 


If wine has been well fermented, and carefully racked 
twice, this process will rarely be necessary, and it is 
never desirable. But it happens with our pure juice 
wines, that they will not become bright. This is be- 
cause they contain more tannin and albumen than the 
wines made at the Hast. When wine is turbid it must 
be made bright by some process, as cloudy wine is un- 
salable, however good it may be otherwise. Filtering is 
a purely mechanical process, which takes out all the im- 
purities suspended in the wine, without imparting any 
other foreign matter to it. Paper and paper pulp are 
very common materials for filtering, and a paper filter 
invented by Mr. A. Beck, San Francisco, possesses the 
advantages of low cost, and self-action, by gravity alone, 
which saves much labor. The wine to be filtered is con- 
tained in a cask, which is elevated on a platform a few 
feet above the filter. The wine flows through a faucet 
and hose to the bottom of the filter, which contains a 
number of flannel bags, drawn over spiral springs to 
keep them suspended. The wine is forced upward in 
the filter by the pressure of the fluid in the cask above, 
is pressed through the bags and a false bottom which 
holds them in position, and flows thence through a 
hose, into a cask below. It takes about twelve hours, 
with a filter of ten-gallon capacity, to filter a puncheon 
of 160 gallons. The apparatus, when once started, needs 
no looking after until the next morning, when the most 
turbid wine will have come out bright and clear. The 
sacks, when they become clotted, can readily be taken 
out and washed, or rinsed by forcing water through 
them, 


AND WINE MAKING. 251 


FINING WITH CHEMICALS. 


Gelatine and isinglass are the most common and the 
best finings for white wine. The former is manufactured 
from the cartilages, skins and tendons of animals, and 
comes in tablets or sheets. It is one of the most power- 
ful of finings and takes with it a great deal of tannin 
_andcolor. It should therefore not be used for red wines 
unless it is desired to relieve them from an excess of 
color and tannin. It precipitates more sediment than 
any other fining, and wines treated with it should be 
racked as soon'as they are clear, which will generally be 
within three weeks. It is generally used to clarify com- 
mon wines, and if they are somewhat flat, tannin should 
be added to them. Gelatine is used at the rate of one 
ounce to each hundred gallons of wine. Soak the gelatine 
a few hours in tepid water, then dissolve in a dish over a 
slow fire, in a little water, stirring it constantly, and do 
not allow it to boil. 

Isinglass, or fish glue, is made from the air-bladder of 
the sturgeon, and comes chiefly from Russia. It is the 
best fining for fine white wines. One ounce, for each 
hundred gallons of wine, is broken into small fragments, 
by pounding it with a hammer on a block of wood. Put 
into an earthen vessel, and pour over it enough of the 
wine that is to be fined to cover it. Add a little more 
after an hour or two, when the first will have been ab- 
sorbed. In about twenty-four hours it will have become 
a jelly, and may be thinned by adding more of the wine, 
and is to be worked with the hands until it is wholly 
dissolved. Then strain it through a piece of linen, 
with pressure enough to force all the mucilage through. 
If too thick it must be whipped or beaten and 
more wine added, before using. It may be kept in bot- 
tles for some time after it is prepared, if a little brandy 
is added, 


252 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


FOR RED WINES. 


The whites of eggs are the best fining for red wines. 
The albumen in them coagulates by the action of the 
- alcohol and tannin, and forms a precipitate heavier than 
the liquid, carrying with it as it falls the matters held 
in suspension. Only strictly fresh eggs can be used, 
and the yolks must be carefully kept out, as they dis- 
color the wine. The whites of a dozen eggs are required 
for each hundred gallons of wine, beaten thoroughly 
with a small quantity of the wine. For sweet wines, 
containing so little spirit that the finings will not act, 
alcohol must be added. But such wines are rarely found 
here, the deficiency, if any, being in tannin, and that in 
white wines. This is supplied by adding from half an 
ounce to an ounce of tannin to every hundred gallons of 
wine. Dissolve one-half pound of tannin in a quart of 
strong alcohol, by shaking it thoroughly; let it stand 
twenty-four hours, then strain through a cloth. One 
gill of the solution contains about one ounce of tannic 
acid. After the finings have been prepared as above, 
two or three gallons are drawn from the bunghole 
of the cask of wine to be treated, and added to the 
finings, and the whole well mixed. ‘The mixing may be 
done by means of a stick split into several prongs, or a 
wire or bristle brush. The mixture is then poured into — 
the cask until it is full, and left to rest until the wine is 
bright, which will generally be in two or three weeks. 
Just as soon as the wine is clear it should be racked off, 
or it will acquire a bad taste. 


AND WINE MAKING. 253 


CHAPTER LIIL 
AGING WINE—BOTTLING. 


A great deal has been said about the importance of 
age for wines, and the evils of selling California wines 
too young. There is doubtless some foundation for all 
this, but it is greatly exaggerated. There are great dif- 
ferences in varieties, some ripening in much less time 
than others, and all depending largely on their treat- 
ment. Strong, full-bodied wines require more time to 
develop their best qualities than light wines, which are 
bright and clear after a season or two. I regard a wine 
as old when it is perfectly bright and clear, having de- 
posited all its impurities, developed its flavor and bou- 
quet, and attained its highest degree of perfection. 
When it has arrived at this stage it should be bottled or 
sold. In bottles it will retain its good qualities, and we 
cannot look for further improvement in casks. It is 
better, under ordinary circumstances, to sell as soon as a 
reasonable offer can be obtained. It is seldom to the 
interest of the producer to bottle the wine, for bottling 
is, in fact, a distinct branch of the business. To 
wines is more properly the business of the dealer, but 
the producer will, under ordinary circumstances, find it 
‘better to sell as soon as the wine has reached maturity. 
It will enable him to prepare for the next vintage, and 
to save room and cooperage. If he wishes to retain any 
wines for experiment or other purpose, he can reserve 
them. If, for any reason, it should become desirable to 
bottle wine, the one essential requirement is that it 
shall be perfectly clear. There are differences in varie- 
ties and locations. For example, our Zinfandels, even 
from the choicest locations, are at their best when two 
years old, and lose their sprightliness and fine bouquet 


254 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


when kept over three years, while Cabernet Sauvignon, 
Burgundy, Riesling and Traminer will need more time 
to bring out their best qualities. Wines that had per- 
fect fermentation are in no danger of disease. 


CHAPTER LIV. 
PURE WINE AS A PROMOTER OF TEMPERANCE. 


I have no fault to find with those who honestly be- 
' lieve that they should abstain from everything which 
contains the least particle of alcohol, yet I desire to 
enter a solemn protest against denouncing wine as nec- 
essarily a source of drunkenness. It is not the moder- 
ate use, but the abuse of any article of daily food or 
drink, which constitutes intemperance, and I am as sin- 
cerely and strongly opposed to such abuse of wine as any 
one can be. I regard wine as one of the best gifts of a 
beneficent Creator to mankind. The same Being who 
‘*‘causeth the grass to grow for the cattle and herb for 
the service of man,” also gives ‘‘ wine that maketh glad — 
the heart of man” (Ps. 104; v. 14,15). This gift is 
too good to be abused, but is designed to be used, like 
other good things, in moderation; to promote health 
and happiness, and not to degrade to the level of the 
brute. It should drive out of use such fiery, alcoholic 
drinks as poor whisky, brandy, and those vile decoctions 
which are sold under the names of sweet Catawba, An- 
gelica, port and sherry, which often contain as much 
spirit in disguise as the first-named. Pure light wine as 
a general beverage is one of the most effective promoters 
of temperance that can be found, and the nations with 
whom it is in common use are the most sober and temper- 


AND WINE MAKING. 255 


ate. When I mention wine the reference is to * the cup 
that cheers but not inebriates,” such as our Savior Him- 
self created by His first miracle, at Cana in Galilee, con- 
secrated at His holy supper and ordained to be used in 
the sacrament in loving remembrance of Him. Our 
total-abstinence friends seem to forget this when they 
claim to be His followers, and yet denounce the cup 
which He consecrated and appointed to perpetuate His 
memory on earth. St. Paul exhorted Timothy: ‘‘ Use 
a little wine for the stomach’s sake and thine often in- 
firmities.” Andin many other places the Holy Scriptures 
show how fallacious is the idea that they forbid its use. 
Martin Luther, the great reformer and the very highest 
type of clear-headed independent manhood, wrote : 

** Who loves not woman, wine and song, 

Will be a fool his whole life long.” 
Surely he did not go down to a drunkard’s grave, nor 
was he ever charged with drunkenness, 

Human nature is so constituted that it craves some 
kind of a stimulant. Why not furnish it the most in- 
vigorating, health-giving, pure light wine, instead of 
enervating tea and coffee. All eminent physicians agree 
that it assists digestion when taken with the food, and 
it can now be had as cheaply as tea and coffee. If pro- 
hibitory laws have failed to prohibit, it is because their 
authors do not recognize the inherent wants of human 
- nature, nor the truth of the maxim that “forbidden 
fruit is the sweetest.” If, instead of futile prohibitory 
legislation, we had laws (and they were enforced) making 
drunkenness a crime which brings upon the transgressor 
infamy and punishment, I would heartily rejoice. But 
I cannot see the justice of laws which prescribe equal 
punishment for the innocent and the guilty, and forbid 
everyone to use wine in moderation and with bene- 
ficial effects, because another abuses it, or makes a beast 
of himself by drinking bad whisky. 


256 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Wine has become so cheap in California that any fam- 
ily may, by purchasing in five-gallon kegs, have good, 
sound, light wine at a cost of twenty-five cents per gal- 
lon, delivered at their door. This is cheaper than tea 
or coffee, and should be kept in every house as a daily 
table beverage with the meals, for lemonades, etc. It 
would be much better for the community if it were thus 
made a part of the household supplies, to be drunk only 
at home, instead of leaving it to be had only in the 
drinking saloons, where it costs five to ten cents a glass, 
and where the abominable practice of “‘ treating” pre- 
vails. As to this so-called custom of “treating,” I hold 
it responsible for more drunkenness, broken constitu- 
tions and moral ruin than any other cause, especially 
among young men. A party of them will go to a saloon, 
where one of them invites the others to “‘ take a drink.” 
They do so, and then another one of them feels under a 
sort of moral obligation to return the compliment. 
Thus it goes around until every one has, in turn, ‘‘stood 
treat,” and spent his money to be even with the others, 
and the liquor enters their heads. They call this ‘‘hav- 
ing a good time,” which it may be for the bartender but 
not for them. It means heavy heads and empty pockets 
if kept up, and ruins many a promising young man. 
How much better would it be if each took his glass of 
light wine at home, with his food, at one-tenth the 
price. I have labored in the cause of true temperance 
(as I understand it) all my life, and my dearest wish has 
been to see this nation the freest and happiest on earth, 
which it can never be until it is one of the most temper- 
ate. I firmly believe that the general use of light wines 
would be one of the chief agents in bringing this about. 
I may not live to see it, but after the experience of a 
lifetime I have no reason to retract a word that I have 
ever written or spoken in the cause of true temperance. 


AND WINE MAKING, 257 


CHAPTER LV. 
EXTENT AND PROSPECTS OF THE INDUSTRY. 


It is difficult to give accurate figures showing the 
_ acreage devoted to grapes in California. Several years 

ago the estimated amount was 150,000 acres, of which 
about 90,000 acres were in wine grapes and 60,000 in 
table and raisin grapes. Ido not think the acreage has 
changed greatly since then. Thousands of acres have 
been destroyed by phylloxera and the Anaheim disease, 
but to make up for this other, thousands of acres have 
been planted to raisin grapes. The decrease has been 
in the acreage of wine grapes, and it is still decreasing. 
The magnitude of the wine industry is shown by the 
fact that about $60,000,000 are invested in vineyards, 
cellars and fixtures, giving employment to about 15,000 
persons. I am unable to give exact figures, though the 
State Board of Viticulture has tried hard to collect them 
every year. They doubtless fall short of the reality, as 
many of the small vineyards and cellars are hidden away 
in the mountains or little valleys, where they were over- 
looked. The following are the estimates, showing the 
increase since 1876: 


YEAR. GALLONS. YEAR. GALLONS. 
1846 3,750,000 _ 1885 9,000,000 
1877 4,000,000 1886 18,000,000 
188 5,000,000 1887 18, 

1879 5,000,000 1888 25,000,000 
1880 8,500,000 1889 24,000,000 
1881 7,000,000 1890 23, 

1882 10,000,000 1891 26,000,000 
1883 8,500, 1892 23,000,000 
1884 000,000 1893 21,000,000 


The extremely low prices which have prevailed during 
the last few years have discouraged thousands from 
planting, until it now seems that the acreage of wine 
grapes would fall off at thé rate of 2,000 acres per 

1? 


258 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


annum. Many, despairing of its future, have planted 
fruit trees among the failing vines, with the intention of 
eradicating the latter. This has been more largely done 
in the counties of Napa and Sonoma, which produce the 
finest light wines, and only a few have replanted with 
resistant vines, trusting to the future to bring a change 
for the better. As I am one of those few, I will give 
the reasons why I still have faith in the eventual success 
of the wine industry here. Though there has been an 
overproduction of inferior wines for several years, yet the 
consumption of wine is increasing. It has increased 
in the State to over six million gallons annually, while 
the outside demand has also increased in an equal ratio. 
A great deal of inferior wine has been manufactured into 
brandy, and thus taken out of the market. The quality 
of our wines is improving rapidly, as we cultivate better 
varieties of grapes and have learned how to handle them. 
The time is not very remote in the future when Califor- 
nia wines will have to be sold under their own labels, 
instead of those borrowed from the French and Germans, 
as has so often been done. ‘The phylloxera, great as have 
been its devastations, may prove to be a blessing in dis- 
guise, as it will destroy our old vineyards of inferior 
varieties, which will be replaced, if at all, by the very 
best. Thus, while the quantity may be diminished, 
the quality will be improved. And when the demand 
exceeds the supply, prices must advance, as they did 
in 1878-81, when there was not enough sound wine 
in the State to meet the demand. When the new and 
increased demand comes, we are ready to meet it with 
better wines, which will command better prices and 
more permanent sales. At the period referred to there 
were but few varieties, limited knowledge and imperfect 
apparatus. We certainly can do much better now. 

One of the most prominent factors in bringing about 
a favorable change is, in my opinion, the wine syndicate, 


AND WINE MAKING. 259 


comprising a combination of producers and dealers, 
which has recently been organized and incorporated 
under the name of ‘‘ California Wine Association,” with 
a capital stock of $10,000,000. The directors are, Henry 
Epstein, Charles Carpy, Henry Kohler, Henry Van Ber- 
gen, J. J. Weglein, E. O. Priber, Henry Lachmann, J. 
Frauenfeld, A. L. Tubbs, Hans H. Kohler and Percy T. 
Morgan, who have taken stock to the amount of $2,600,- 
000. Officers of the association: President, C. Carpy; 
Vice Presidents, Henry Epstein, Henry Van Bergen, 
Henry Lachmann ; Treasurer, J. Frauenfeld; Secretary, 
Hans H. Kohler. The object of the association is to 
control the product of the vineyards in the State. With 
this in view they have entered into contracts with the 
producers for options on their products—wines on hand, 
grapes of the coming crops and wines made from them,— 
for five years. These products are to be delivered at 
their destination within a stated time, at prices which 
are gradually increased year by year—one-third to be 
paid on delivery, one-third with acceptance in three, 
and the remainder in six months. The wines and grapes 
are to be graded in four classes at different prices for 
bottom and hill products, and also for different varieties. 
Due distinction is thus made as to quality—the first 
step that has been taken in that direction, This combi- 
nation was the outcome of an evident necessity for self- 
_ defense,—to save the industry, we may say, from 
ruin. Previously every one had acted for himself. 
There was no concert; all sold at such prices as they 
saw fit, underbidding one another in the market. While 
the dealers were engaged in this cut-throat business, the 
unfortunate producer was forced to sell to them at such 
prices as they felt disposed to offer, which was some- 
times far below the cost of production. But the dealers 
saw that this could not continue,—that they were killing 
the goose which had laid golden eggs for them, and that 


260 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

they must raise prices to a living basis if the vineyards 
were to be keptup. It was very clear to them that their 
immense storage houses, casks and machinery, and all 
the capital it had cost to build up their trade, would be 
wholly unremunerative if the vineyards died out, and 
they would be in worse plight than the producers, who 
had at least their lands, to cultivate in some other crops. 

As about eighty per cent. of the producers have en- 
tered into contract with the association, it will be able 
to control the market and fix prices. Most of the other 
producers will find it to their interest to come in, and 
the dealers who are not in the syndicate will also join or 
be compelled, at least, to pay the same prices. In this 
move I see the dawn of a new and better era in California 
grape culture. We have the finest climate in the world, 
and are reasonably sure of a fair crop of salable products 
every year. There is no apparent reason why this should 
not again become, as it once was, a leading industry of 
the Golden State. 

My task is ended—perhaps the last of the kind that I 
shall ever undertake. Whether it is well done is for 
those to say who read these pages. ‘They may find their 
way into many a vintner’s cottage, and if faults and 
oversights are found in them it is hoped the readers will 
think as kindly of the author as he thinks of everyone 
who grows the noble grape, and that it may prove help- 
ful to them after he has been laid to rest in California’s 
soil. But while life lasts, so long will continue undimin- 
ished his predilection for grapes and wine, and for his 
brothers, the producers. 


AND WINE MAKING, 261 


CHAPTER LVL 


WINE SONGS, 


*¢Wine maketh glad the heart of man.” Can it sur- 
prise us, therefore, if all nations which produce it have 
had their poets who glorified it in song, and that sing- 
ing and merriment prevail during the vintage? But 
none has more of them than Germany, the fatherland of 
song; while America, the coming Wineland, is singu- 
larly deficient in this respect. Let us hope that, when 
good wine is more appreciated than it has been so far, 
some of our poets will also immortalize it in song. My 
poetic vein has long ceased to flow, or I would try. But 
at the end of a book devoted to grape culture and wine 
making, I cannot forego the pleasure of attaching a few 
translations of German songs, nearly as good as the orig- 
inal in their quaint humor and deep meaning. 


FATHER NOAH, THE FIRST WINE GROWER. 


‘1, When Noah left his floating frame, 
Our Lord to Father Noah came. 
He prized his pious offering, 
And said, “‘ Thou’st done a goodly thing, | 
And to reward thy piety, 
Thou may’st e’en choose a boon from me.” 


2. Then to the Lord old Noah said, 
“The water now tastes rather bad, 
The whilst there have been drowned therein 
All beasts and mankind in their sin. 
*Tis therefore, Lord, I even think 
I should prefer some other drink.” 


® Thereat the Lord to Eden went, 
And brought him thence the grapevine’s plant, 
And gave him counsel and advice 
To tend this shrub of Paradise, 
And bade him nurse it carefully. 
It pleased old Noah wondrously. 


262 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


4. He made a solemn household call 
And summoned wife and child and all, 
And planted vines where’er they’d grow. 
Forsooth old Noah was not slow. 
He pressed the grape, and built a cave, 
And put it into casks to save. 


5. Old Noah, grateful for the boon, 
Cask upon cask did open soon; 
And with sincerest piety, 
Did empty them most willingly; 
And drank yet, since the flood was o’er, 
Three hundred years, and fifty more. 


6. This to each prudent man does show, 
From drinking wine no harm can flow, 
- And Christian folks it warns, moreo’er, 
’ No water in their wine to pour, 
The whilst there have been drowned therein 
All beasts and mankind in their sin. 


(From the German of Kopish, translated by J. A. Schmidt.) 


NOAH’S LEGACY. 


1. When Noah felt approach his end 
He said, ‘*‘ I’11 make my testament.” 
He counted over all his stocks, 

His cattle, donkeys, goats and bucks, 
The sheep, camels, and all the rest 
With which so richly he was blest. 


2. This done, he said, ‘‘ I wish to see, 
At once, my friend the notary.”’ 
To him he spoke, “‘ You shall divide 
My property. Now do it right; 
Let all my children have their share, 
And take, yourself, what’s just and fair.” 


3. Thus they divided all. But still, 
Before the lawyer signed the will 
(He was, as clerks in average, 

Fond of a pleasant beverage), 
He said: “ But now, beloved sir, 
Who of your wine shall be the heir?” 


4, Said Noah: “In daylight and here 
We can’t decide that question, dear! 
Let to the cellar us descend 
And see, how there, the case may stand. 


AND WINE MAKING. 263 


Don’t fear pains.” “ What my duty is,” 
The lawyer said, ‘‘ I never miss.” 


& A generous man old Noah was, 
And freely filled the lawyer’s glass. 
They drew a sample everywhere, 
They tasted here, they tasted there; 
And when they had the stock gone through, 
Took an inventory anew. 


6. Back came to Noah youth and life, 
He thought no more of child and wife. 
“ Dear friend,” said he, “now put that{down, 
And head it with a golden crown. 
Of all the wine that here you see, 
The human race the heir shall be. 


‘Z. “No death bells! Let the goblets ring, 
And jolly boys my requiem sing. 
Each cask filled with the golden wine 
Shall be a monument of mine. 
Write this, and make, dear notary, 
Eternal thus my memory.” 


(German text by Gruner, translated by J. A. Schmidt.) 


There is a deep significance to me in the following, as 
I look back through the past, and think of the genial 
spirit now laid at rest, old ‘‘Father Muench,” as he was 
familiarly called by his friends, to the closer circle of 
whom it was my privilege to belong. One of the pio- 
neers of German descent in Missouri, who served his 
adopted country in its legislative halls through all the 
stormy period of the late war, and yet more by his nu- 
merous writings in various fields of literature, he was 
one of the first who followed the then new industry of 
grape culture ; and his earliest beginnings date back to 
1846. His ‘‘American Vintner’s School,” a text-book 
for the beginner, attained a deserved popularity, and 
was translated from the German into English. Many 
pleasant hours have we spent together at his homestead 
and at mine. At my farewell visit in 1881, he expressed 
the wish to ‘die in harness,” without any previous ill- 


264 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


ness, His wish was gratified by an all-wise Providence, 
He was found dead among his beloved vines, one fine wins 
ter’s morning of that year, with the pruning shears still 
in his hand, in his 84th year. Peace be to his memory. 
One of the best and most genial of men, he yet lives 
eternal in the memory of his many friends. 


AMERICAN VINTNER’S SONG. 
BY FREDERICK MUENCH (FAR WEST). 
(Translated from the German by Mrs. Wistar.) 


Plant the vine! Plant the vine! 
Generous fount of ruby wine! 
In the sunlight gladly playing, 
Richly all your toil repaying, 
Will the smiling clusters shine. 


Eve and dawn! Eve and dawn! 
Still must find us working on, 
Digging, cutting, pruning, binding, 
Round their props the tendrils twining,< 
Sweet the mite of labor done. 


Sun and air! Sun and air! 
Leafy green and odors fair; 
Then the berries, luscious treasure, 
Fill the inmost soul with pleasure, 
Leaves and fruit and blossoms fair,— 


Then at last! Then at last! 
Left below, our labors past, 
Let us, o’er the mountains straying, 
Where the air’s mild breath is playing, 
Down the vale our glances cast. 


Gather in! Gather in! 
Let our harvest now begin. 
Now the purple juice, dark glowing,| 
Full and free, in streams is flowing. 
Young and old, come, gather in.|' 


Hear it foam! Hear it foam! 
Surging in its narrow home; 
Let it seethe and bubble rightty! 
Till it sparkles, clear and brightly 
Here within [its narrow home. 


Now we pour 
Gods might envy 


Clink your glasses, every One 


266 


AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


INDEX. 


Page 
Acidimeter, Twitchell’s....145, 161 
Histivalis SIND ceg scarce bacon 8, 188 
“ §6for wines..... 10, 146 
ecaee MVATIOR oe\'ss(catee san tideene s 
American grapes, must of...... 168 
a varieties of grapes..4, 10 
2 wines, future of..... 258 
ARUN TACHONO oe isco kx sa ce casias 71, 222 
Arbors, vines nan Perr 58 
Arizonica Vitis.. errr 
Bailey, Prof. L. H., on grape 
LEC IEEI EL CPR ArT on tear 62 


Bailey, Prof. L. H., on girdling, 108 


Barnes, W. D., Hudson River 
CISUPICG. <c!xcic's Sec ad'esueticee 01 
Baskets for marketing...... 107, 135 
Bauder, Ds Central ew York 
CUBES Be o's as eorcens bacexees 
Bitter rot in Galifornia. seeenene Mee 
BIAGCE TOC 6. Sawa tesccassdssicees 67 
“s “ in Hudson me, vine- 
ADAG: ks ck cevaseetoest colbnssas 
Bordeaux mixture.... --67, 100, 114 
Bottling wine.......ccccccsccscce 253 
BFADNGY. 20 fecs cece svcccecbccensses 248 
Buchatt, coh girdling.. PEL Pe ee 85 
BUGS coccccccccccsccccscccece covcee 82 


pipes ia vo sp letahebadincbahe of 
or Ui 1 aia eres 213-221 
California grapes for wines, 199-210 
** market,210-212 
raisin making in, "998-933 
wine making ete 
“ industry .. 
Californica, Vitis... ss.sccccctccus 89 

Campbell, Geo. W.,Central Ohio 
district...... 91 
Catawba must ».171-175 
Cashin’s grape training .. cocesese 66 
WABES, v2.03 sancecenoeeneess vs ccuees 143 
Cellars, Wine. .......0.e0000e0139, 237 
oer ye lements. cece a 

entral New York grape dis- 
[TICE ia coindts rst peadases e0ee099-101 
Champagne, New Vork......s.. 
California......... i 

Champin graft ....6..-cccccccece 
Chautauqua grape belt. .cccssee 131 


ee ee 


2) 
| Chemicals, fining with......... 251 
Choice of varieties........ 29, 40, 198 
CAONG scicdds co see oote Seinccdbeee 17, 23 
Clarification |. fei cssstadecs acces 
Classes of grapes, Munson’s. 6 
Cleft graft, English. ............ 20 
Colman, Hon. Norman J.. -- 67 
Concord, introduction of.. Ye de 102 
66 must gallized...... a, 158 
66 vines, training of.. 47 
Cordifolia GARI Gs 523 secs cee ewes 8 
‘¢ for wines..... 10, 175 
ss phylloxera proof... 75 
COMMER ciddReis sos cose ccudiobeccsse , 224 
CUB on boca svc once code cceccecs 13 
“ grafted .. seese Cankeeseses 16 
Cutworm, gray ...... cvemocesscces OD 
Decrease in vigor ..........eee. 
ss of viticulture in Cal- 
STOPMIG Seekciic ce scceseteoeecee Bd 
Department of Agriculture.. 67 
Delaware vines, training of.... 47 
Desirable varieties.............. 30 
Discarded St eo mealacecda 30 
Diseases of vines. . - -67-75 
along Hudson 
orale Si Cae ame oun aoe ae ene 105 
Diseases of vines in Missouri,113-115 
“ in California, 221 
66 of wine..... Sew aclnese ene 155 
Downy mildew..........ssessees 69 


sconncple methods of grape cul- . 
A Rin cw aoe Wek CEU Sebo s mee 187 


tu 
Wiatern varieties of grapes. . 


-29, 40 
Haw Colestes s-cccc'sacesaccbeasecke 
Eggs, in wine making.......... 252 
Engelmann’s,Dr.,classification, 4 
European vines...............- 87 
Extent of Ncamaee oy grape in- 
dust try.. eeeseeeeeeeeeeereee 257 
Pormoentation,.....sckecssseckans 148 
“s changes “caused, 163-166 
on SO0ONGs' ss sens ascees 154 
Fermenting VOUS. . ices cscatuste 143 
on the husks.....- 156 
Filtering wine......0....00.- ecce 200 


Fining with Chemicalses+++s sere 251 


AND WINE MAG&ING, 


Fortified wines... ...«cceeceeeeees 245 
Fruit, eee eee eee eee ee eee 86 
Fros seere eee eee ee ee eee eee ee rere 83 
Fungicides... cccecceescceceeeceee ri 
Gall, Dr., on wine making...... 157 
Gall zin ng.- eee eeee 158, 168 
Gelatine in wine making. séscee 251 
Gird ig. eee ee eee **eeee* ** 85 
Graftin pruning. Or stool.......6 ie 
ra , vasenge oF: eee eeee 
. best time for... coccce 17 
bad methods of . coe 38 
“ in California vine- 
VAIS 2.200 -eeeeesseeeccees 196-198 
Grape culture in California.... 187 
in Central N. Y. 99 
> “ in Central Ohio, 91 


in Chautauqua 


Tee eee Pee eee eee eee 


ie pod a in Hudson river ia 

Grap ° culture im a 117 

” en de pi; 110, 116 

- ‘s = Now wag or 119 

bed $6 on Rio Grande .. 123 
sd “ in Southern 

i he cites dane heme 21, 124 

Grapes, Munson's classification 6-7 

nn’s +“ 4 


“ 

“ Euro in California, 187 
: — California wines, 183,185 
“ 
“ 


267 


Page 
Insects,thrips ...++00+0« ° “ 


“ bay am ge ache ol 

Isinglass in wine making 

J r, Herman, viticulture in 
Giesoust. co.cc ~océones ae 

Jaeger on mildew and rot...... 113 


Keuka Lake ee 
Kaniffen ae Se training 62 é3, 103 


3 te an “eee teen 1044 


eee eee ee ee ee ee ee ee ry 


| poco eayprrene seers 


Lecatun tan — 


grape. 
ma California gra ee ee ee ee ee 
“ No ema. he 


r Eastern ly tape eee eee eee ee ee - 159, 
mreparing 80 il for “eeeee seeeeeeesceccess Dt, 160 
‘aint Rocky ‘mouin, 9 Mexi grape growing in, 119 
Rs Sy RE ae ew Mexico, 
ope:> inte oes a 299 31 | New varieties, UNSON'S ss. im 
OFocscves 
“6 what to plant. sese 29 | Ohio, growing in Cen- 
Grape cuttings .. eeeeee eee ee eeee 13 eee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee 91 
ce eereeee eee eee eee ee eee 235 Old vines, renewin of... eee eeee 87 
“ lt a eee erence eee . 24 
“ seeds. eeereeeeee coche 10 Packages for marketing. ....108, 227 
Sd sugar.. ee eee eeeeeeee 177 Peronos ospora., eee seb secesee 
sd Ss FUP. ssesessesessusencuss ‘Phylloxera, life history of. . 77-79 
Gray CULWOIM, ....ceeececeeeceee BO Spey DE. cocccccecesesccccccseces ) 
Half long training in Califor. “ in Californ o* - 194 
nia.. tener 217 Pleasant Valley Wine a sons 
Horizontal-arm training. eseeere GL] Powdery mildew. .........000+++ bad 
Husks and lees ** eee ooceee kB, 156 Press for see ee ee eeee **. bE 
y cuttings........ 13 
teaplomente used in California “ by CT ee - 
ne ee eee eee eee ee eee “ by se eeee eeee 15 
Scncctetl thaatenien restoring.. , 225 “ by seeds........... 10 
Insects in urious to the grape, 75 | Protection In winter............ & 
ap ee ee eee eee ee eee eee al Pruning and training... «.«+«««.« 47 
‘s beetles.. eee ee ee eee eee ee ee BO Pruning saw. eee eee eee ee ee eee eee AS 
“ eee eee eee eee eee 2 eee ee ee ee ee eeee 87 
« camel cricket........... 82 
“ cutworm “seen eee eee 223 Racking the wine. ee eee eee ee ener 12 
z grapevine jae a - aoe MAKING «. «60 ccee se oe 
nx. eee ee 0 ran wing on, 
“« leaf folders’... sescescces 80 SAA ylloxera, 4 
“ NyHOxXePrAa .. cc ee cccecene 76 class, oeeeed, 10 
. Rocky mountain locust. 81 BOOKS Of. ss eseveeeren ener 


268 


Page 
Ripening, earns Yo hasten, 2 109 
Rot, bitter.. bssueheseeew'e bs 72 
Sh ae said dele dive 6 O65 vedas veae ae 
66 ri ore ee ere eere ee eevee eeeeneeee 73 
“6 tYDACIOOR ORL tdiodies 113 
Rougeot eereeee eeereeeeeeeeeeeeeee 72 
Saccharometer.. 


cee shke ation Rely AOU 
Seeds, propagation by.......... 10 
Seedlings .....06e--sereceveceress 12 
Sherry grapes and wine.... . 207-209 
Soil and location........... d/drine 4D 


Soil preparation.....-+.+s.se+ee. 27 
SPOTes.. ...-.- ee ee ee ee eee ccvecscce GS 
Spraying, value of........ oo eee T3-T5 
Stocks, resistant grape.......+. 187 
af vinifera. . Said sald sie ou ROE 
«  ~=—sC Vitis Hstivalis......... 188 
66 “ = =6ATIZONICA. ..60.200 189 
td “© Californica........ 189 
66 ‘ Riparia....... coooe 188 


6c 66 


Rupestris ......... 188 


Sdiuemes grape growing mi south- eo 
Thinning the fruit.. 86 
Training the vines............-. 48 
ies vines on arbors and 
WATS iis Sie his bucenuiy sated 
Training vines in California, 215-219 


« in Central N. Y., 60 
oF ravens 2 9 | Chautauqua 
OH svn sis ccs eee Ok a eee pane 133 

Training vines in Hudson River 

VAMCV ccc as sce er he ercan sais 103 
Training vines, Kniffensystem, 62 
Munson system, 62 
PPOUIS court ce tos ota seine cae nid ‘eia'se eo 
Tying ViNES.....cccccccccccceeees Bl 
Urbana Wine Co.........esecees - 99 
Vacancies in vineyard, fill..... 47 
Vats for carrying grapes....... 147 
667) “LOTPRONUNE sc.c0 sce cipeee pas - 143 
Varieties, Munson’ Ss new....... 124 
America....... 125 
is 6 Beacon 25.6... 126 
6 sé Brilliant....... 124 
Sic $8 ('CarMans te sesesthee 

Ma? “ Delicious...... 12 
% “ Fern Munson, 130 
s§ *¢ Gold Coin..... 129 
“ “ Laussell....... 130 
6 6. MueneR |... 129 
Ay 46 Rommell <5... 125 
ae W.B. Munson.. 129 


Varieties, Standard : Catawba, 
Concord, Cynthiana, Dela- 
ware, Elvira, Goethe, Herbe- 
mont, Herbert, Lady, Lind- 
ley, Martha, Norton” s Vir- 
ginia, Pocklington, Tri- 
Umpli, WIGS es cee ce es 30-31 

Varieties promising well: Bar- 
ry, Bay State, Black Defi- 
ance, Colerain, Diamond, 


AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 


Page 
Duchess, Early Ohio, Eaton, 
Eclipse, Early Victor, Em 
pire State, Eureka, Exqui- 
site, Geneva, Green Moun- 
tain, Hayes, Hosford, Ideal, 
Jewel, Jumbo, Keystone, 
Lightfoot, Magnate, Match- 
less, Mills, Montefiore, Ni- 
agara, Owego, Oswego, 
Ozark, Paragon, Perfection, 
Rochester, Selma, Superb, 
Thomas, Ulster Prolific, Ver- 
Seen Wate Woon. 
ewel, Willie, Witt, Wood- 
ruff Red 
Varieties commonly grown in 
Central N. Y.: Concord, Ca- 
tawba, Delaware, Isabella, 
Clinton, Ives, Diana, Elvira, 
Iona, Eumelan, Niagara, 
Norton, Moore’s Diamond.. 
Varieties commonly grown in 
Central Ohio: Concord, Del- 
aware, Moore’s Early, Wor- 
den, Lady, Colerain, Eaton, 
Vergennes: i.:.stas ede loca soc 91-95 
Varieties commonly grown in 
the Chautauqua belt: Con- 
cord, Moore’s ig Cham- 
Boa Catawba, yoming 
ed, Pocklington, Niagara, 
Agawam, Delaware and 
Martha in order named .132-133 
Varieties grown in Hudson Riv- 
er valley: Concord, Cham- 
pion,Cottage, Brighton, Bac- 
chus, Delaware, Elvira, Em- 
ire State, Hartford,Moore’s 
arly, Martha, Niagara, 
Pocklington, Duchess, Wor- 
den, dceemno) Red and Ul- - 


Varieties grown “in Mississippi 
formarket: Champion,Del- 
aware, Herbemont, Ives, 
Moore’s Early, Niagara and 
Perkins. For table use: 
Brilliant, Delaware, Gold 
Coin, Green Mountain, Her- 
man Jaeger, Moyer, N ellie 
Munson and Rommell. For 

wine making: Scupper- 
nong 118 

Varieties grown in Missouri: : 
See Herman Jaeger’s list of 
seedlings and hybrids. ..111-116 

Varieties alee am me Mexico, 

rinecipally Mission grape, 
aiae Miiaont of Alexandria, 
Rose of Peru and Black Bur- 
gundy 

Varieties grown on Rio Grande: 2 
Museat of Alexandria, To- 
kay, Black Morocco, Rose of 
Peru, Black Hamburg and 
Zinfandel... evececesreageees 123 


cere ewe m ewes reese eeesee 


AND WINE MAKING. 


Varieties grown om Californ 
TOE MATKOE. «0 cécccecc coescces. SOD 
for red wine.. sceceesedccecees 
for white Wine .....-cccecess 
for myer oe AR 

Vines to plant ** eeeee sere © ** 

treatment first summer.. 
second “ 

“ “ third “ 51 
“ “6 fourth * 

Vineyard, planting of,in the 


eee eee ee 


PO Re eee eee 


Vineyard, cultivation of.. 
location and soil.. 
os restoring infected... 225 
“ pale rg of Eastern a 
 Whgemeete vabauion ak Masmet 
poe oti pe- 


eeeeeeeeeeee eres 198 


3 


Wine, American grapes for .... 146 
o ccoccccosseocesocece SOO 
bontihige-sescsesness iso 


diseases 
flat and turbid..........- 
BTApPes [OF . .. ce cece cece 


pure.. . ee eee ee eee eee ee ee 2h 
racking. oe ee PR Pee ee ee ee ee 182 
red.. 


eee Ce ee eee Ce ee ee ee 243 


pe teeasenersesas 


sparkling . eee eee eee 
ora ae Bons eeccee = 
making in California... 236 
Eastern States, 148 

“ filtering 
41 Winemaking, Gali’s and Peti- 

ol’s m ethod.. eee ee eee ener b hey 
Wine making made easy......- 180 
“ sugar and water in 164 
“ association .........+. coos SO 
- — extent of...... a 


son 
Winter pon wT eT pa | 
Wires for trellis... «.++++++++..45, 1594 


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The New Egg Farm 


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Forage Crops Other than Grasses 


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Sie De AS nn ea ape Ar Sama Gite Svar he SRS 


The Study of Breeds 


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pedigreed breeds of cattle, sheep and swine in America. The 
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The New Onion Culture 


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iis New Rhubarb Culture 


A Mg 2m guide to dark forcing and field culture. Part 
I1—By J. E. Morse, the well-known Michigan trucker and 
originator of the now famous and extremely profitable new 
methods of dark forcing and field culture. Part Il—Compiled 
by G. B. Fiske. Other methods practiced by the most experi- 
enced market gardeners —— men and experimenters in 
all a of America. Illustrated, 130 pages. 5 x 7 inches. 
Q . ’ ‘ ‘ . . . . . . . 


Successful Fruit Culture 


By Samuet T. MAynarp. A practical guide to the culti- 
vation and propagation of Fruits, written from the standpoint 
of the practical fruit grower who is striving to make his 
business profitable by growing the best fruit possible and at 
the least cost. It is up-to-date in every particular, and covers 
the entire practice of fruit culture, harvesting, storing, mar- 
keting, forcing, best varieties, etc., etc. It deals with principles 
first and with the practice afterwards, as the foundation, prin- 
ciples of plant growth and nourishment must always remain 
the same, while practice will vary according to the fruit 
grower’s immediate conditions and environments. Illustrated. 
265 pages... § x 7 inches, Cloth: oe ae 


Plums and Plum Culture 


By F. A. WaucH. A complete manual for fruit growers, 
- nurserymen, farmers and gardeners, on all known varieties 
of plums and their successful management. This book marks 
an epoch in the horticultural literature of America. It is a 
complete monograph of the plums cultivated in and indigenous 
to North America. It will be found indispensable to the 
scientist seeking the most recent and authoritative informa- 
tion concerning this group, to the nurseryman who wishes to 
handle his varieties accurately and intelligently, and to the 
cultivator who would like to grow plums successfully. Illus- 
trated. 391 pages. 5 x 7 inches. Cloth, . . . $1.50 


Fruit Harvesting, Storing, Marketing 


By F. A. WaucuH. A practical guide to the picking, stor- 
ing, shipping and marketing of fruit. The principal subjects 
covered are the fruit market, fruit picking, sorting and pack- 
ing, the fruit storage, evaporating, canning, statistics of the 
fruit trade, fruit package laws, commission dealers and dealing, 
cold storage, etc., etc. No progressive fruit grower can afford 
to be without this most valuable book. Illustrated. 232 pages. 
Sik) cee enol. gg tt ee ie 2 ee 


Systematic Pomology 


By F. A. Wauecu, professor of horticulture and landscape 
gardening in the Massachusetts agricultural college, formerly 
of the university of Vermont. This is the first book in the 
English language which has ever made the attempt at a com- 
plete and comprehensive treatment of systematic pomology. 
{t presents clearly and in detail the whole method by which 
fruits are studied. The book is suitably illustrated. 288 pages. 
5 * 9 iviches (gees See ee 


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