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AMERICAN
Se PE GROWING
AND
WINE MAKING.
BY
GEORGE HUSMANN,
OF TALCOA VINEYARDS, NAPA, CAL.
NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.
WITH SEVERAL ADDED CHAPTERS: ON THE GRAPE
_ INDUSTRES OF CALIPORNIA,.
: ce eer 2
NEW YORK:
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
751 BROADWAY.
, 1885.
SC go
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, ky the
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
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PREFACE TO THE NEW AND ENLARGED
EDITION.
The progress of horticulture is so marked and rapid,
that those who do not keep even pace with it, are soon
left behind. This is especially true with grape culture,
which has perhaps progressed more rapidly than any other
branch. When I look over the first edition, issued only
a few years ago, I find that it has already fallen behind,
although its aim was to present the most recent experience.
New varieties of grapes have since made their appearance,
while old ones have been dropped from the lists, the taste
of the public having become more refined and critical.
New areas have been opened to grape culture, which is
spreading into every State and Territory, from the Atlantic
to the Pacific, and the all-important question, one that
is asked every day, in every locality, is: ‘‘ What grapes
shall we plant ?” This is as it should be ; progress is the
watchword of the age, and no one can be more willing to
acknowledge its claims than I, wno have wished for it
and believed that it would come, when others thought
that these hopes were but the dreams of an enthusiast.
Especially since my removal to the Pacific Coast (in
the fall of 1881) have I become aware that a book which
I aimed to make as cosmopolitan as possible, 1a the ex-
perience it sought to impart, can not claim to be a guide
unless a large share of its pages are devoted to grape cul-
ture and wine making in California. A visit to this
shore, in the summer of 1881, convinced me that this
was the true home of the grape, and that California, with
her sunny and dry summers, and her mild winters, was
destined to be the vine land of the world ; that promised
land where every one ‘‘ could sit under his own vine and
fig tree.” Diseases of the vine are here comparatively
(111)
TV PREFACE.
unknown, the rainless summers, when no showers are
expected from May until September, allow nearly all of
the crop to ripen every year. Even in the unusually cool
summer of 1882, with early and abundant rains in Sep-
tember, the crops ripened sufficiently to make a fair wine,
perhaps only the more agreeable because not too heavy.
These favorable climatic conditions simplify the culture
and training of the vine, the gathering of the fruit, and
the operations in wine making. Gallizing and Petioliz-
ing became superfluous, and would not even pay, as
grape juice is cheaper than sugar and water would be.
In this climate it becomes possible that one man can own
and superintend hundreds of acres of vineyard, and that
a fair wholesale price for the wine, when three months
old, is from twenty to thirty cents per gallon. At this
rate it pays the producer well, as it costs him on the
average about twenty dollars per annum per acre to cul-
tivate the grapes and make the wine; and five hundred
gallons per acre is considered an average yield. That,
under all these favorable circumstances, California must
become the first grape-growing State in the Union, seems
to be but natural, especially when we consider also the
raisin industry, perhaps still more profitable, and the
extended shipments of table grapes to the Eastern States,
and other sources of profit.
But, easy as are grape culture and wine making here,
there is a vast field for improvement; and nowhere else
perhaps are rational knowledge and proper skill more
needed. ‘The very ease of the pursuit, which allowed
any one, even with the simplest culture and the most
common treatment, to raise a fair crop and make a drink-
able wine, has led many, in fact a large majority, to em-
bark in grape growing who knew but little about it, and
did not try to learn more. They followed the pursuit
negligently and mechanically, without proper study and
observation. ‘The results were, the culture of varieties
PREFACE. v
which produced the most, without regard to quality,
and a great amount of inferior wines were made from
them. These poor wines, of course, obscured the merits
of the really fine wines, and brought them into bad
repute. For a number of years California wines were al-
most unsaiable, even at twelve or fifteen cents per gallon.
But this state of affairs has changed for the better, and
the improvement still continues. The old Mission grape,
which was almost the only variety cultivated at first, and
which gives a very heady and heavy wine, but of little
fineness and delicacy, is generally cast aside for better
varieties, of which nearly all the new plantings have been
made. Wines are now beginning to be appreciated ac-
cording to their merits, the habits of the choicer varieties
of the grape are studied more, and their pruning and treat-
ment changed accordingly. Dealers begin to discriminate
in their purchases between cellars filled with ordinary
wines and those of superior grades; they pay higher prices
for the latter, and are reluctant to purchase the former
at any price. ‘That this change is as inevitable as it is
desirable, must become clear to every one whose judgment
is unbiased. It is the ‘‘old, old story,” which repeats
itself in every branch of industry, that only those whose
motto is, ‘‘ Excelsior,” who work with brain as well as
hand to achieve the best, will eventually win the day.
California has wines already, which can take their place
with the choicest productions of the Rhine, France, and
Burgundy, and we may safely claim for our wines, that
a better article can be bought in San Francisco to-day,
from some of our leading firms, at from six to nine dollars
per case, than can be purchased in St. Louis or New York,
of foreign importation, at from fifteen to twenty-four
doHars per case. That these wines are often shipped to
the East in bulk, and then sold under French and German
labels, detracts nothing from their merits; that this is
even done in San Francisco, is indeed to be deplored. But
VI PREFACE.
this will change; I hope to yet see the day in which Cali-
fornia may proudly claim a place in the front rank in the
production of fine wines, and when they will boldly sail
under their true colors.
To accomplish this change, we need a closer study of
the best varieties for each location, and rational treatment
according to their habits ; we need more skill in the mak-
ing and handling of wines ; more especially do we require
a free and unshakled expression and interchange of ex- _
perience and opinions among grape growers. The State
Viticultural Commission, created by act of Legislature
approved in April, 1880, with an annual appropriation of
ten thousand dollars, have done a great deal to spread
information, and to gather it. The first Convention of
grape growers, held in Dashaway Hall, San Francisco,
in September, 1882, brought together perhaps the largest
and finest exhibition of grapes and wines ever held in the
State, and elicited much valuable information. But un-
fortunately it was also characterized by a dictatorial and
arbitrary spirit, which did not allow as free and liberal
an interchange of experience as could be wished, and a
great deal of time was consumed in learned essays and
impracticable theories, which could have been more profit-
ably devoted to experience from practical men, who were
in a measure shut out from the discussions, if their views
did not happen to coincide with those of the ruling spirits.
Let us hope that a more liberal spirit may prevail in the
future, and that the next convention will give us a full
and free expression of the views of all practical men.
We need close attention to insect pests, and especially
to the Phylloxera, which has already made serious inroads
in many sections of the State, and may become as de-
structive to our vineyards in the near future, as it has
already been in France. We want to prevent its ravages,
not by costly insecticides, or by quarantine, but by the
only rational method, the planting of vines able to resist
PREFACE. WiLL
it; this will establish our vineyards on a permanent basis.
To do my share in this great work, to contribute my
mite to the fund of general knowledge, has been the aim
of the additional pages, devoted mainly to grape culture
and wine making on the Pacific Coast. It is true that my
experience here is but limited, but I have observed closely,
and have quoted the experience of others wherever I could
obtain it. Ido not claim to be an authority, nor do I
acknowledge any. Weare all workers in a common cause,
hable to err, but also gathering experience as we labor,
which may be of service to others, if imparted. Let me
hope, that my brother vintners will receive this new edi-
tion as kindly as the former one.
In this, as in the first edition, it has been my object to
be a guide to the beginner, the smal! producer and wine
maker, rather than to those who already own establish-
ments large enough to employ skilled labor, and who, with
large capital, are able to bear reverses and mistakes -with
equanimity. But the beginner who works from hand to
mouth, who must struggle on for several years before he
can realize enough to make a comfortable living, can not
afford to make serious mistakes, either in the varieties he
plants, or in the wines he makes from them. If such find
anything in the pages of this little book which is useful
to them, which will cheer their labors and further them,
making them more easy and profitable, I shall have at-
tained my object in revising it. What we all need, is
practical and useful information, more than elaborate,
impractical theories. This I have tried to give, based
upon my own experience, and that of other practical
vintners from whom I have been anxious to learn, fully
realizing that I was entering upon a new field, where I
had to learn from those who preceded me.
GEORGE HUSMANN.
Talcoa Vineyards, Napa, Cal.; Noy. 9, 1883.
CONTENTS.
Paas.
INTRODUCTION, os cceceasies cecccisn ded vctipscp sue seuelinee sss sees -slee a5 eee
CHAPTER I—The Ginseievion of ‘Grapes sin’ aso ve cigacks okie peer nn
ee Il.—Propagation of the Vine—By Seeds. (<0. -2 cic oe. seer 16
cs Il!.—Propagation by Cuttings in the Open Air.............. 19
ve IV.— Propagating the Vine by Layers... ..... PR oocas: 21
sc V.—Grafting the Vine... 2.050) et ietas se bose es eee 22
“ V1.—The Vineyard—Location, Aspect, and Soil............. 28
“ VIl=Preparing ‘the! Soils. 3.2.2 \.j-<eas + se clos «hee eee 30
ae VIII.—What Grapes to Plant—Choice of Varieties............ 31
a 1X.—Labrusca Class, With their Hybrids.................... 35
Ee X.—The Aistivalis Class—For Genera] Cultivation......... 54
XI.—The Aistivalis Class—Varieties Promising Well....... 61
XII.—Cordifolia Class (or riparia according to Engelmann).. 65
XUII.—The Cordifolia Class— Varieties Promising Well....... 70
XIV.—Varieties Difficult to Classify, etc............... se... 77
XV.— Varieties for Different Localities... ..25.2c2 4) sceecees i
XV.L—Plantine the.Vinewsn.. asacie sot. Adee ae eee eee 81
XVII.—Treatment of the Vine the First Summer.............. 84
XVIUI.—Treatment of the Vine the Second Summer........... 87
XIX.—Treatment of the Vine the Third Summer............. 91
XX.--Treatment of the Vine the Fourth Summer............ 96
XXI.—Training the Vine on Arbors and Walls................ 98
XXIT.—Other Methods of: (raining. 2... .cis,) soccer se cee 99
XX U:—Diseases of the Vimesis cc, <-- 2c: 2 wo ans oo eee 102
<XTV.—Insects:Injurious to the Grape:.o5.-2-.-.0-.2-.2s22 eee 105
XXV.—Frosts—W inter. Protection 4:< )455)-.ce sees eee eee 115
XXVI.—Girdling, Thinning, and Miscellaneous Matters........ 117
XXVII.—Gathering and Marketing the Fruit ................... 121
XXVIII.—Grape Growing in Southern Ohio... .................. 127
XXIX.—Grape Culture and Wine Making in Ohio............ ',.1385
XXX.—Grape Culture at Kelley’s Island, Ohio......... ...... 138
XXXI.—Grape Growing, etc., on Lake Keuka, N. Y........ ... 142
XXXII.—Grape Growing in Southern Texas ................... 145
XX. —TMhe'Grapes of Southern Texas, o: 2s. cce see se ieee er 151
XXX TV. —The Vineyard in Dexas) jos): eis se ae coe cee eset 154
XXXYV.--Grape-Growing in Western Texas... ................. 159
XXXVI.—The Culture of the Grape in California................ 162
XXXVII.—Viticulture in Sonoma Valley, California ... ......... 166
XXX VITII.—Viticulture in Napa Co., California........ ........... 169
XXXIX.—Grape Culture in Maryland—Cashin’s Treilises........ 174
XT.—Grape Culture in Missouris..1. 22-35 6:2 .4ssnen eee 180
XLI. -—Grape Culture Near Chattanooga, Tennessee.......... 182
XLIL—White Elk Vineyards, Towa... 5...\.0.-.-'s. mec oneemeniter 184
XUEM.—The Phylloxera Problems... -: -. 4.0... seeeetes ences LOG
XLIV.—Egg Harbor Wines.—Early Winter Grape.—Cost of a
WANG VATA. 5-66 <ssccat.owle tie’ tra seers blesiee cena cee ero 190
OLIN = Wane Making, . S.1i..<hc aioe oot crete clot «ohare etter eee 195
XLVI.—Dr. Gall’s and Petiol’s Methods of Wine Making......213
XLYVII.—Wine Making Rendered Easy—Conclusion............ 236
—Grapes and Wine’ in’ California:, ......0see Sa eee 240
VIL ‘
Age a ay llog ie
SOO
THE CULTURE OF AMERICAN GRAPES
AND VARIETIES.
(9)
CHAPTER I.
THE CLASSIFICATION OF GRAPES.
It is only within comparatively few years that much
attention has been given to the parentage of our culti-
vated varieties of native grapes, as it was formerly thought
to be of little or no importance whether a variety was
derived from one or another of the few native species.
More recent experience has shown that the varieties of a
species, however widely they may differ from one another
in some respects, agree in other points, and however far
the varieties may be removed from the native type, they
retain certain characters which indicate a common par-
entage. On the other hand, if we know from which
species a variety is derived, we can, with a fair degree of
certainty, predict its general behavior in cultivation, and
in a great degree its value. This is so generally true that
the experienced viticulturists of the present day regard
the origin or parentage of the cultivated varieties as a
matter of the first importance. It is not in the character
of the fruit alone that our varieties differ, as they are
derived from one or another of the native species, but the
foliage, the wood, the tendrils, the roots, and other parts
of the vine retain their peculiarities ; and hardiness not
only as regards the ability to endure cold uninjured, but
the ability to resist the attacks of both parasitic plants
and insects, or whatever else affects the health of the plant
is now known to be transmitted with as much certainty,
if not, indeed, more surely, than are the form and quality
of the fruit.
In classifying the numerous varieties now on the lists,
they are grouped according to the species of Vitis (the
LE
12 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
botanical name of the grape genus), from which they are
known to be, or supposed to be, derived, and the name
of the species is given to the class. Thus, when a variety
is spoken of as ‘‘ belonging to the estivalis class,” it is
to be understood that it descended from, or is derived
from, the native species of grape called by botanists, Vitis
estivalis. So, when in speaking of a variety we, for the
sake of brevity, say ‘‘it is an e@stivalis,” it is equivalent
to saying that it belongs to the class of varieties derived
from the species of that name.
All of the European grapes are regarded as having their
origin in Vitis vinifera of the old world, a species which,
though it has been cultivated from the earliest recorded
time, is nowhere known in the wild state. The varieties
of this, while generally unsuccessful east of the Rocky
Mountains, succeed admirably in the climate of the Pacific
Coast, and, until very recently, have been cultivated there
to the exclusion of all others. It is of interest to our
grape-growers principally on account of the hybrids
which have been produced between it and our own na-
tive grapes. The varieties of the European grape differ
from ours in their leaves, which are ‘‘ smoothish,” and,
when young, shining; they are more or less deeply
5 to Y-lobed, the lobes pointed and sharply toothed ; the
flesh of the berry adheres to the skin, while the seeds
have a narrow and usually proportionately longer beak
than in any of the native varieties.
There are throughout North America, eight or nine
species admitted by botanists as distinct, four only of
which have yielded varieties of cultivation ; these are :
1. Vitis Labrusca, The Northern Fox Grape.
2. Vitis estivalis, The Summer Grape.
3. Vitis cordifolia, et The Winter or Frost Grape, or
V. riparia, The Riverside Grape.
4, Vitis vulpina, The Southern Fox Grape.
9
AND WINE. MAKING. a3
Without attempting elaborate botanical descriptions,
we give here a few brief popular notes on each species ;
the varieties derived from them will be found grouped
together in their proper places. It may be remarked
here that the species vary to a great extent in their wild
- condition, and it is often the case that those most famil-
lar with grapes find it very difficult to decide to which
species to refer a given specimen. That most thorough
botanist and keen observer, Doct. George Engelmann,
of St. Louis, Mo., found that the seeds give, in most
cases, more constant marks by which to distinguish the
species, than could be found elsewhere. ‘Those who are
interested in the botanical aspects of grape culture are
referred to an illustrated article prepared by him for the
** Bushberg Catalogue,” iene by Bush & Son &
Meissner, Bushberg, Mo.
1. Viris Lasrusca, Linn.—The specific name, La-
brusca, is the ancient Latin one for a wild vine. This
species, the well known Wild, or Fox Grape, extends
from Canada to the Gulf, but is rarely found in the
Valley of the Mississippi. It is common in moist woods
or thickets, and sometimes reaches the tops of the high-
est trees. ‘The leaves are large and thick, often entire,
and coated on the underside with a thick, whitish, or
rusty wool; berries large, dark-purple, or amber-colored,
with a tough pulp and a strong, ‘‘ foxy,” or musky odor;
the most common grape of the Northern woods, and pre-
sents a great variety in the wild state ; has given rise to
an important series of table grapes, of which the best
known are the Concord, and several useful hybrids.
2. VITIS ASTIVALIS, Michaux.—The term Summer
Grape is the equivalent of the specific name. This
has large leaves, which are clothed on the underside
with loose cottony or woolly down, which is bright red or
rusty, ‘‘smoothish” when old ; the clusters slender, com-
14 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
pact, dark-blue or black, with a bloom. It is the latest
flowering of all the Northern species ; its range 1s more
Southern and Western than the preceding, and it reaches
great perfection in Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, and In-
dian Territory. Norton’s Virginia and Herbemont are
prominent among the varieties, as will be seen at the
proper place, in the ‘‘ estivalis class.” .
3. VITIS CORDIFOLIA, Michaux; and VITIS RIPARIA,
Michaux.—Michaux described two species of the Winter
or Frost Grape, one as V. cordifolia (the heart-shaped
leaved), and the other as V. riparia (of the river banks).
The two were kept distinct by Torrey & Gray in the
‘Flora of North America” (1838). In the ‘‘ Flora of
the State of New York” (1843), Doct. Torrey gives both
species, and says of V. riparia: ‘*'This species is most
readily distinguished froin the preceding ( V. cordifolia),
with which it is often confounded, by its incisely serrate
leaves.” Doct. Gray in his ‘‘ Manual of the Botany of
the Northern States” (1856), unites the two under V.
cordifolia, Michaux, and says: ‘‘ Var. riparia has the
leaves broader and cut-lobed.” (V. riparia, Michx).
Doct. Chapman in his ‘‘ Flora of the Southern U. 8.”
(1860), follows the same arrangement as Gray. Later,
Doct. Engelmann in Riley’s ‘‘ Report on the Insects of
Missouri” (1874), and in the ‘‘ Bushberg Catalogue,”
again restores Michaux’s arrangement, and gives both
Vitis cordifolia and V. riparia. ‘Those who are aware
of the acuteness he brings to the investigation of obscure
subjects, and the high esteem in which he is held in the
botanical world, will attach great importance to Doct.
Engelmann’s views.
According to him, besides the difference in the leaves,
the fruit of V. cordifolia is black, without a bloom, ripens
late, and has a *‘ strong and very fetid aromatic taste,
which unfits it for making into preserves, or for pressing
wine.” In V. riparia he says that the berries are usually
AND- WINE MAKING. 15
larger than in the last, mostly with a bloom, ripens much
earlier, and is much pleasanter. While no cultivated
varieties of V. cordifolia are known, V. riparia gives
several, the best known of which is Clinton. In a strict
botanical classification it might be necessary to keep
these two species distinct, but in a viticultural arrange-
ment, where the cordifolia class has become established
by usage, it seems hardly worth while to insist upon call-
ing it the ‘‘riparia class.” As the V. cordifolia, as un-
derstood by Engelmann, affords no cultivated varieties,
no confusion is likely to result from the use of the term
cordifolia, to designate that class of grapes of which the
Clinton and Taylor are best known, and which the Elvira
promises to bring into greater prominence than it has
heretofore enjoyed. ‘he remaining species :
4. ViTIs vuLPiINA, Linneus (‘‘ the foxy”), has been
called V. rotundifolia (the ‘‘round-leaved”) by some
later authors. It is not found north of Maryland, and
extends into Florida. It rambles to a great distance, has
a close, smooth bark like a beech tree, heart-shaped
leaves, shining on both surfaces ; the berries, one-half to
three-fourths inch in diameter, are very few in a cluster,
dropping as soon as ripe, bluish-black (with light-col-
ored varieties), with a very thick and leathery skin and
a strong and peculiar flavor. This is the parent of the
‘much talked of Scuppernong, Mish, and others. It is
called Bullace, and also Muscadine.
The important hybrids are mentioned under the class
to which the native parent belongs. The term hybrid is
properly used only where the variety results from the.
union of two other varieties from distinct species; the’
Catawba and Clinton, or the Concord and Black Prince,
by their union, would in each case produce a hybrid; an
Ives fertilized by the pollen of Martha, would produce,
not a true hybrid, but merely a cross, as both varieties
belong to the same species, the Labrusca.
16 - AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER IL
PROPAGATION OF THE VINES.—BY SEEDS.
While the raising of grape vines from the seed is more
a labor of love, than of actual profit, yet its influence on
grape culture generally has been so great, and we are
already indebted so largely to its zealous followers, that
it cannot be entirely omitted in a work like this. We
ean not gain further perfection in varieties without this,
and the success which has already attended the labors
of Rogers, Wylie, Campbell, Ricketts, Muench, Miller,
Weydemeier, Langendoerfer, and especially Mr. Jacob
Rommel, in giving to us the Elvira, and other varieties
still more promising, affords hopes of even more impor-
tant results. .
To begin then at the beginning : choose your seed from
a good stock. I am inclined to believe that only the
estivalis and cordifolia (or riparia, as Engelmann has
it) species will give us the true wine grapes of the country,
and if we can increase their size somewhat, they will also
be the best table grapes. We have them already as large
as the Catawba, and they are more juicy, of finer flavor,
and less pulpy than the varieties from the Ladrusca
species, while they are much more healthy and hardy.
Remember that we have already too many varieties, and
that every new one we add should have some decided
merit ever any of the old varieties, or else be discarded at
once.
Choose the best berries and the most perfect bunches,
from which to take the seed, and either sow in autumn,
and cover, or keep them over winter, mixing the seeds
with moist sand, when separated from the pulp, to insure
ready germination. Sow early in spring, in well pulver-
ized clay soil, in drills one foot apart, and drop the seeds
AND WINE MAKING. 1 te
about an inch apart in the rows, covering about three-
quarters of an inch deep, with finely pulverized soil.
When the young plants appear, keep them clean and well
cultivated through the summer; in the fall take them up
carefully, and put in well drained fine soil, so as to preserve
their roots in the most perfect condition. It will be well,
during the summer, to look over them frequently, and if
any of them show disease in the leaf, pull them up at
once, as it is useless to save such as are feeble and un-
healthy. It may also be well to shade the young vines
for the first month or so, to prevent the sun from scald-
ing them while yet young and tender, and if any of them
grow remarkably strong, give them small sticks for sup-
port. In the following spring they may be transplanted
_ to their permanent location in the vineyard or garden.
The ground for their reception should be moderately
light and rich, and loosened to the depth of at least
tS rinebes:: i. ;
Make a hole about 8 inches deep, then throw in soil
so as to raise a small mound in the center of the hole,
about 2 inches high; shorten the top of the young vine
to about 6 inches, and then place it on the mound,
spreading its roots well in all directions; fill up with well
pulverized soil, until the upper eye is even with the sur-
face of the ground. ‘Then press the soil lightly, place a
_ good stake about 4 feet high with each vine, and when the
buds start, allow but one sprout to grow, which is to be
tied neatly to the stake. The vines may be planted in
rows 6 feet apart, and 3 feet apart in the rows, as
many of them will prove worthless, and have to be dis-
carded. Allow all the laterals to grow on the young cane,
as this will make it stocky and short-jointed. Cultivate
well and frequently, keeping the soil loose and mellow.
The second season the seedlings will generally make
from 3 to 4 feet of short-jointed growth; in the fall
of that year they should be cut back to about three
18 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
buds, and have the ground drawn up around them for
protection in winter. Should any of them look very
promising, fruit may be obtained a year sooner by graft-
ing the wood of the seedlings upon strong vines. Young
vines thus grafted will generally bear the next season (see
‘‘ Grafting,” on another page). Next spring, which will
be their third, remove the covering, and when the young
shoots appear, allow only two to grow. After these have
grown about 18 inches, pinch off the top of the weakest
of the two shoots, so as to throw the growth into the
strongest shoot, which is to be kept neatly tied to the
stake or trellis, treating it as the summer before, and
allowing all the laterals to grow. At the end of this
season’s growth they should be strong enough to bear the
next summer. If they have made from eight to ten feet
of stocky growth, the leading cane may be cut back to
ten or twelve eyes, or buds, and the smaller one to a
spur of two eyes. If the vines will fruit at all, they will
show it the next summer, when only the most promising
ones should be kept, and the barren and worthless ones
discarded. Seedlings have this peculiarity: both the
berry and bunch will increase in size every year for the
first three or four years; therefore, if the quality of the
fruit is only good, the size may come in time. The fruit
of the Elvira (of which more hereafter), which is now
about as large in bunch and berry as Catawba, was at first
not more than half its present size, it having increased in
dimensions every year for the last eight years.
AND WINE MAKING. 19
CHAPTER III.
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS IN THE OPEN AIR.
The easiest and most simple mode of propagating the
vine is by a planted in the open ground; it
CUTTINGS—ALL NEW AND
PART OLD WOOD,
can be successfully followed with
the majority of the Labrusca and
cordifolia varieties, and a few of
those from the estivalis, although
the latter will not take root
readily, and had better be propa-
gated by layering and grafting.
The most general method is the
following : In fall, when pruning
the vines, choose the best ripened
wood of medium size, which is
better than either the very large
or very small, and cut it into
lengths of from 9 to 12 inches,
cutting close below the lower
bud, and about an inch above the
upper, as in figure 1.
Figure 2 shows a cutting with
part of the old wood attached ;
cuttings of this kind will generally
root more readily than the other.
These cuttings will mostly average
three to four buds each ; tie them
in convenient bundles of 100 to
250 each, taking care to make
their lower ends even, and keep
them either in a cool, moist cellar,
or bury them out-doors in well
drained ground, with the upper ends downwards, cover-
ing up well with finely pulverized soil. The making of
20 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
cuttings may be continued during winter, although they
will root more readily if cut early, and there is also no
danger of frost injuring the buds.
In spring, so soon as the ground is dry enough, the
cutting bed should be prepared. Choose for this a light,
rich soil, pulverized at least a foot deep; if not light and
rich enough, it can be made so by well-decomposed leaf
mould. Make acut along the whole length of the bed
with the spade, deep enough to receive the whole length
of the cuttings, and press these well down into it, so that
the upper buds are even with the surface of the earth ;
fill up with loose soil, and press it down firmly with the
foot along the line, so as to pack it well around the cut-
tings. The cuttings may be put close in the row, say 1 to
2 inches apart, and the rows 2 to 3 feet apart, so as to
allow of cultivation either by hand, plow, or cultivator.
After the bed is finished, mulch with spent tan, sawdust,
or leaf mould, so as to protect the young shoots from the
sun; maintain a moist and even temperature during sum-
mer, and keep the soil open and porous.
Keep the soil of the cutting bed clean during the sum-
mer. The young vines will generally make a hard, firm
growth 1 to 4 feet in length the first summer; they
will make their roots just where they ought to be, and
will be by far the best plants for general use, being pre-
ferable to vines raised either from single eyes or by
layers. In the fall they should be carefully taken up, and
heeled-in in well pulverized soil, deep enough to cover
the crowns, first assorting, so as to make them as even
in size as possible for planting. They are then ready for
setting in the vineyard, and a good strong one-year-old
vine is, beyond a doubt, the best for that purpose.
AND WINE MAKING. 21
CHAPTER IV.
PROPAGATING THE VINE BY LAYERS.
All varieties of the grape may be readily increased by
layering, but it is especially valuable for those hard-
wooded varieties of the @stivalis species, which will not
grow readily from cuttings, and vines thus propagated
will, if handled rightly, make very good plants. To layer
a vine, shorten in the canes of the last season’s growth to
about one-half their length, then, early in the spring, pre-
pare the ground by the use of the spade or fork, to
thoroughly pulverize it. Make a small furrow about an
inch deep, bend down the cane and fasten it firmly in the
bottom of the furrow, with wooden hooks or pegs. The
canes may be left thus until the young shoots have grown
from 6 to 12 inches, then fill up around them with fine .
soil or leaf mould. Canes so layered will generally strike
root at every joint. The shoots may be tied to small
sticks, and when they have grown a foot, their tops should
be pinched to make them more stocky. In the fall take
them up carefully, commencing to dig at the end
furthest from the vine, and separate the plants, by cutting
between the joints, so that each shoot has a system of
roots by itself. They are then either planted immedi-
ately, or heeled in, as described for vines from cuttings,
to be planted in the spring,
22 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER -Y.
GRAFTING THE VINE.
The advantages of grafting are: 1. The facility by
which new and rare varieties may be rapidly increased by
grafting on strong, healthy old vines; thus treated they
often grow from 10 to 20 feet the first season, producing
an abundance of wood to propagate from. A striking
illustration of this may be seen in the vineyards of Messrs.
Poeschel & Scherer, at Hermann, Mo., who commenced
five years ago with five eyes of the Elvira, and now have
2,500 bearing vines of that variety, all grafted on strong
Concord stocks. 2. The short time in which fruit can
be obtained of new and untried varieties, as the grafts
will generally bear the second season. 3. The facility by
which vines of varieties, the fruit of which may be worth-
less, can be changed into valuable bearing vines. 4. The
advantage it offers to us in avoiding that invidious enemy,
the Phylloxera, as we can graft varieties, the roots of
which are subject to its ravages on those kinds which are
Phylloxera proof, and can facilitate the growth of natur-
ally weak varieties, and make them more vigorous, by
grafting on strong growing stocks. 5. Varieties which
will not grow readily from cuttings can generally be
grafted easily; hence this method is especially valuable
to increase the varieties of estivalis.
The vine, however, does not graft with the same ease
as the apple and pear, and it is, therefore, a more uncer-
tain operation. Moreover, to insure success, it should be
grafted below the ground, which makes it a disagreeable
operation, and one quite difficult to perform, hence it
will hardly become a general practice. But for the pur-
poses above mentioned, the operation is sufficiently im-
portant to make it desirable that every vineyardist should
be able to perform it.
AND WINE MAKING. 23
Here, the best success generally is attained when we
graft in March, although it may be done as late as May.
Dig away the ground around the vine, until a smooth
place upon the stem is found, then cut it off smoothly,
and insert one or two scions, as in common cleft
grafting, taking care to cut the lower part of
the scion to a very thin wedge, as shown in
figure 3, leaving two eyes on the scion to insure
better success. Care should be taken to insert ;
the scion properly, as the inner bark or liber of j@
the vine is very thin, and the success of the i i
operation depends upon a perfect junction of {\\\j
the stock and scion. If the vine is strong
enough to hold the scion firmly, no bandage is
necessary ; if not, the scion should be tied with
a ligature of bast, or Bass-wood bark, applied
evenly and firmly. Finish the operation by
pressing the earth firmly around the cut, and
fill up with fine soil to the top of the scion, or
cover it up with sawdust. Examine the stock
often, and remove all suckers that appear from
time to time, as they will rob the graft of its
nourishment. Do not be discouraged if the
scion does not start at once. Scions will often
remain dormant for a month, and then start
and grow with astonishing vigor; such are gen-
erally more sure to grow than those which start
prematurely, before a firm junction is effected
between the stock and graft. This is an old
method of propagating which has been very
: Fig. 3.
successful with me. Another, and a very good sae nin
one, is the following: ‘‘ Make a slanting cut GRAFTING.
in the stock, from the side, downwards towards the
middle, then cut your scion to a simple wedge, and
push it down on one side, so as to join the bark of the
stock. This has the advantage that the stock need not
24 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
be cut off, in case the scion should not unite with it,
and as the fibres of both scion and stock are cut trans-
versely, the pores join better. As soon as the scion starts,
cut off the stock above it, taking care, however, not to
move the scion in the operation.”
The following is copied from the Seventh Annual Re-
port of the State Entomologist of Missouri (1875); the
methods described are mostly to counteract the Phyllox-
era, by establishing the graft upon Phylloxera proof
roots, and preventing it from making roots of its own :
«¢There are several methods of grafting above ground,
which I have every reason to believe may be made more
successful than grape-growers have hitherto supposed ;
the first is, by making a false surface and grafting in the
manner just described, but instead of digging away the
earth and inserting the scion several inches below ground,
it should be inserted above ground, and the earth thrown
up around it, to be removed after the graft is thoroughly
and permanently joined. There will be no danger of the
graft forming its own roots, and it is certainly as easy to
throw the earth around the vine as to dig it away, while
the work can be more easily performed above than below
the surface. No doubt this method of grafting needs
greater care, especially in dry seasons, as the mound is
more apt to dry out than the level ground. Yet there is
evidence that this method will work well in our soil and
climate. Mr. Jno. Vallet, of New Haven, Mo., a grape-
grower of much experience, has had good success in this
grafting above ground, using flax twine and pawpaw bark
for bandages. He considers that the vine grows more
vigorously (which I am inclined to doubt), and that there
is less danger of separating the graft when the union is
once formed, as it is not necessary to go below ground
to destroy the suckers, by which the grafts are sometimes
_ disturbed.”
‘<The second method is byinarching. This system of
AND WINE MAKING. 25
grafting does not seem to have been practised much in
this country ; yet, while it requires great care, and may
not be as generally successful as ae former methods, L
hope more attention will, in future, be given to it. The
operation is simple: A slice of 2 or 3 inches long
is cut from one side of the vine to be grafted with, and a
similar slice from the one which is to serve as stock, as
near to the base as possible (of course, graft and stock
must be close together). The two cut pcrtions are then
brought face to face, so as to fit neatly, and are bound
together with Bass-wood bark, or other grafting bandage,
and wrapped in moss, which should be kept moist. In
the course of a fortnight, partial union takes place, when
the bandage should be slightly loosened, to allow of ex-
pansion. In six or eight weeks, if successful, the stock
and scion are firmly united, when the bandage may be
removed. The graft immediately below the union,
and the stock immediately above) it, should then be
cut in a week or two.” This method has been success-
fully followed by Mr. Eugene Cambre, of Nauvoo, IIl.
Mr. Cambre, in. giving his experience, writes: ‘I
have positively abandoned cleft grafting ; it is too much
trouble and too uncertain, and the graft often makes its
own roots. I assure you that from a long experience in
inarching, I am of the opinion that not alone the Dela-
ware, but most of our cultivated varieties, will do better
on native wild roots than on theirown. I have 14 acres of
vines mostly grafted in this manner on wild stocks, and
I have not lost one of such grafts. It is preferable to,
graft at from 10 to 15 inches from the ground.”
Another mode of grafting above ground is thus given
in “‘ The Cultivation of the Grape,” by W. C. Strong:
«‘In ‘The Gardeners’ Monthly,’ Vol. IL, p. 347, is a
description of a mode practised with success by Mr. Cor-
nelius, which we copy, not merely as it is interesting in
2
260 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
itself, but also because it illustrates many other modifica-
tions in grafting :
‘ After the first four or five leaves are formed, and the.
sap 1s flowing, you choose the place on the vine where you
intend to graft. At that point wrap tightly a twine sey-
eral times around the vine. This will, in a measure, pre-
vent the return sap.
‘ Below the ligature, make a sloping cut down, as shown
at figure 4, a; also, a similar reversed
one above the ligature, as at 0, about
one inch in length. Im selecting a
scion prefer one that has naturally a
bend. Cut it so that it shall be wedge
shaped at both ends, and a little longer
than the distance between the cuts in
the vine at @and 6. Insert: the scion,
taking care to have the barks in direct
contact, securing it with a string, ¢,
bound round both scion.and vine suf-
ficiently tight to force the scion ends
into their places. If the work is done
well, no tie will be required at @ and 4,
but the joints should be covered with
grafting wax. In a short time, the
bud at d will commence its growth,
after which you can by degrees remove
all the growing shoots not belonging
to the scion, and in course of the sum-
mer you may cut off the wood above 3,
_and in the fall remove all above a on
ya
7
| Fig. 4.—crarving the stock, and above ¢ on the scion.”
2 pillage ha ‘Still another mode of grafting
remains to be mentioned, which has, I believe, seldom,
if ever, been attempted in this part of the country, but
which has been employed with much satisfaction the past
year by a few vine growers in France, and especially by
AND WINE MAKING. 20
M. H. Bouschet, of Montpelier. It is the winter graft-
ing of a cutting of such variety as is desired to grow upon
another which is to be used as stock,
the combined cuttings being planted
,in the usual manner in spring, leay-
ing only the buds on the gratt
proper out of the ground. This is
yery similar to our ordinary mode
of making apple grafts ; and while
we have little or no experience in
this country on which to base antic-
ipations, the method is worthy of
trial, and is illustrated at figure 5.”
‘But not to weary with details,
I here reaffirm my belief, strength-
ened by each further observation,
and by every additional experience
of the past year, that just as the.
working of the Root-louse is the
primal cause of failure of some of
our choicest varieties of the grape-
vine, so in judicious grafting we
have the most availavle means of
counteracting its work, and of thus
growing successfully many of those
kinds which cannot be grown in
this latitude with any profit or hee coat a
success on their own roots.”
I have omitted propagation by single eyes, as this
method is now only followed by nurserymen, for the pur-
pose of inczeasing new and valuable varieties. As it in-
volves the expense of a propagating house, it can be of
little yalue to the vineyardist, and those who intend to
follow it professionally, are generally proficient already.
28 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
oC EL AP EE eT
THE VINEYARD.—LOCATION, ASPECT, AND SOIL.
As the selection of a proper location for the vineyard
is of first importance, and one of the main conditions of
success, great care and judgment should be exercised in
the choice. Nearly any soil will grow grapes, at least for
the table, and some varieties are so hardy and thrifty,
that they can be grown almost anywhere, but with
grapes on a large scale, either for market or wine, or
both, good and paying results will only be reached in the
best locations.
When writing my first little book I was under the im-
pression that the hillsides along our larger streams were
best adapted to the growth and health of the vine.
After six years’ experience in Southwest Missouri, on the
prairies and high uplands removed from all larger
streams, I have changed my opinion entirely, .and now
believe that the dry atmosphere and cool breezes of these
uplands are much more conducive to the health of the
vine. We know but little of rot or mildew here, even in
the last five exceedingly wet summers, when the grape
crop along the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, with the
exception of a few such ironclads as Norton’s Virginia,
Cynthiana, Ives, and Elvira, was almost a failure.
Those localities may generally be considered safe for the
grape, in which there are no miasmatic influences.
Where malaria and fevers prevail, there is no safety for
the crop, as the vine seems to be as susceptible to such
influences as human beings. Kan
Keeping this fact in view, we may consider our high
table lands and hillsides, where the vines are fully ex-
AND WINE MAKING. 29
posed to the prevailing winds in summer, our best loca-
tions. These are also generally free from frost late in
spring and early in fall, which is another importar.t con-
sideration for the vineyardist. The soil should be natur-
ally well drained, as the vine does not like to have ‘ wet
feet ;” therefore, tenacious sub-soils, so-called ‘‘ hard-
pans,” should be avoided. I have seen equally good
results in limestone as in sandstone soils, though it will
generally hold good that a sandy, and at the same time
moderately rich soil, is better adapted to most of our
varieties than heavy clay. We have thousands of such
locations, and no where have I seen more beautiful grapes
than on the sandstone hills around Warrensburg, in this
State, (a neighborhood noted at the same time for its
famous sandstone quarries, ) although the hillsides, at first
sight, appear rather poor. The professional grape-grower,
therefore, can find abundant scope, and should certainly
look after such locations. The amateur, however, who
only wishes to grow grapes on a small scale, and for home
use, can easily make his soil light by an addition of sand,
and occasionally lime. Let him choose the spot on his
grounds which seems best adapted to his purpose, and
although he may not grow as rich grapes, yet he will
grow them good enough, and abundant enough, if he
chooses the proper varieties.
30 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
C BoA P a. RS Vara
PREPARING THE SOIL.
For the preparation of the soil, the foundation of his
work, the grape grower must be guided in his operations
by the condition in which he finds his ground. If it is
an old field, free from stumps and stones, or a piece of
prairie soil, it will be easily prepared. Break up the soil
with a good large turning plow and strong team to pull
it, and follow in the same furrow with a subsoil stirring
plow, which merely loosens the ground; and do this as
deep as possible, if 20 inches, all the better, though 16
inches in all will do if you cannot go deeper.
If, however, the land is a new piece of forest soil, the
task will be much move difficult. This must be care-
fully grubbed of stumps and roots, and although the same
implements will, in a measure, suffice, yet the turning
plow should have a sharp coulter in front, and the sub-
soil plow should also have a strong and sharp coulter,
with merely a wedge-shaped, strong share to stir the
soil. Besides, much more power will be necessary. In
stony soul, the pick and shovel must take the place of the
plow, as it would be impossible to work it thoroughly
with the latter ; but I think there is no advantage in the
old method of trenching or inverting the soil. If we ex-
amine the wild vines of our forests, we will generally find
their roots running along in the surface soil. It is un-
natural to suppose that the vine, the most sun-loving of
all plants, should have its roots buried several feet below
the surface, where neither sun nor air can reach them.
Work the soil well and thoroughly, and as deep as you
can, it will be labor well invested ; will be the best pre-
ventive against drouth, and the*best drainage m wet
weather, but leave it in its natural position, and do not
AND WINE MAKING. ol
plant too deep. est assured if the roots find anything
congenial below, they will hunt it up. Should the soil
be very poor, it may be enriched by ashes, bone dust,
manure, etc., but it will seldom be necessary, as most of
our soil is naturally rich enough, and it is not advisable
to stimulate the growth too much, as it will become rank
and unhealthy, and impair the quality of the fruit.
Wet spots may be drained by gutters filled with loose
stones or tiles, and then covered with earth. Surface
draining can be done by running a small ditch or furrow,
every sixth or eighth row, parallel with the hillside, and
leading into a main ditch at the middle or end of the
vineyard. Steep hillsides should be terraced or benched,
but as this is laborious and expensive, they should be
avoided.
CHAPTER VIII.
WHAT GRAPES TO PLANT.—-CHOICE OF VARIETIES.
This is, indeed, a difficult matter to decide in a vast
country like ours, where soil and climate differ so much,
and I think it a great mistake Into which some of our
most prominent grape-growers have fallen, to recommend
any grape for general cultivation, simply because it has
succeeded with them. Grape growing is, perhaps, more
than any other branch of horticulture, dependent upon
soil and climate, and it will not do to dictate to the in-
habitants of a country where the extremes meet, that
they should all plant the same varieties. Yet this has
been done by some who pretend to be authorities, recom-
mending the same grape for planting North and Sonth,
East and West, which certainly shows that they have
more arrogance than knowledge. I have seen such widely
32 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
different results, in vineyards closely adjoining, that I
have become reluctant to recommend, even to my nearest
neighbor, what he should plant.
In the East and North the demand is still for some-
thing earlier than we yet have, while here in the West we
do not desire the early grapes so much, at least, not for
wine making purposes. ‘The earliest, so far, seem~to
come from the Labrusca ; those who desire still earlier
grapes, will have to look to these mostly, and it seems as
if the Early Champion is a step in that direction, being
better, and, as its friends claim, ten days earlier than the
Hartford Prolific. From Southern Texas my friend and
correspondent, G. Onderdonk, of Victoria, writes to me,
that it is useless to cultivate the Ladrusca there, as it
will not succeed, and their grapes are emphatically the
Warren (or Herbemont), and the Black Spanish (so-called,
but the true Lenoir), both belonging to estivalis of the
Southern class. The varieties of Zabrusca cannot stand
their summers, and this fact, with their failure in France,
where also they can not stand their hot and arid sum-
mers, lead me to the supposition that their tendency to
root near the surface is the cause of it. The varieties
of estivalis and cordifolia all root deeper, and are, there-
fore, better calculated to withstand the severe drouths.
We, here in Missouri, are centrally located, and while
it will be well to cultivate some of the early varieties of
the Labrusca for market and early table, our reliance for
the main crop will, in future, be the estivalis and cordi-
folva, all the more so, as they are exempt from the ray-
ages of that insidious little enemy, the Phylloxera, to
which the greater part of the Labrusca varieties are sub-
ject, and which may be, in a great measure, the cause of
their frequent failure. With these few general remarks,
which may serve somewhat to guide the planter in a
selection, I will now describe a few of the most promi-
nent and reliable of each class of the older varieties,
a
‘ >
Fig. 7.—G@@THE (ROGERS’ HYBRID NO. 1). (33)
AND WINE MAKING. 35
together with some of the most promising, giving at the
end a list of varieties which promise to be generally suc-
cessful for the East and North, one for the central sec-
tion of our country, and one for the extreme South.
, CHAPTER ‘1X.
LABRUSCA CLASS, WITH THEIR HYBRIDS.
Concorp.—This is too well known to need any particu-
lar description. It was considered, until lately, one of
the most reliable and productive, but for the last few
years has rotted so badly, that it is now considered unre-
liable by a great many. The fruit is of fair quality,
very handsome, too soft to carry well to market, and
will not keep. Will, with skillful handling and a little
artificial heat, make a wine of fair quality, of a very en-
livening and invigorating character, which is emphati-
cally the ** poor man’s” drink, as it can be produced cheap,
and is just the beverage he needs, instead of the poison-
ous compounds called whiskey and brandy. A rampant
and hardy grower, not subject to Phylloxera, and will,
perhaps, bear more overcropping and neglect than any
other. Has been very valuable, but I think will be
superseded by better sorts so soon as they become better
known. Specific gravity of must 76°.
CaTawBA.—Also too well known to need description.
Although very unreliable, it yet holds its place among
wine grapes, especially on the Lakes, and although I
would not recommend it generally, it does succeed in
some sections, and is a good grape where it can be grown,
making a high-flavored and sprightly wine. It is very
much subject to the attacks of Phylloxera, and this alone
36 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
is enough to make any one hesitate to plant it, when
varieties so much better can be had. Specific gravity of
must 80°. Onarecent trip I have seen the Catawba in
such perfection on the Lakes in Western New York, that
it would seem to me it is still the grape for them.
When they can grow from fifteen to twenty pounds to
the vine, as I have seen on Crooked Lake, without a
rotten berry, or blemish, and the must going up to 96°,
they ought to plant Catawba still, although I do not
consider it a perfect grape even there.
Essex.—(Rogers’ Hybrid No. 41). This is a beautiful
and good grape, and with me, has generally given satis-
faction. Bunch medium, shouldered ; berry very large,
double the size of Concord, round, black, with blue
bloom ; skin thin, pulp tender, juicy, sweet, and vinous,
with hardly any native aroma. Vine a good grower,
abundant bearer, and little subject to disease. Ripens
with Concord.
GarHe.—(Rogers’ Hybrid No.1). For us in the West
this is one of the most reliable and best of all the La-
brusca class, and has no foxiness, but some of the flavor
of its vinifera parent. I have seen it succeed equally
well near Baltimore and Washington City. Many have
failed to succeed with this, and also others of the Rogers’
Hybrids, for the simple reason that the vines are
luxuriant growers and very abundant bearers, and the
_ vines were taxed beyond their strength when young; did
not ripen their fruit or wood well, and were enfeebled for
years to come. But with rather short pruning, severe
thinning of the fruit when young, and allowing the vine
only from 10 to 15 lbs. of fruit per year, good results can
be gained nearly every year. This will apply to all the
Rogers’ Hybrids. Bunch medium to large, rather loose,
shouldered ; berry very large, oblong, very good when yet
white, when it resembles the Malaga, pale red when fully
(88)
Fig. 8.—MarrHa,
AND WINE MAKING. 39
ripe; skin thin, pulp tender, juicy, sweet, and luscious, with
fine Frontignan flavor. Fine for table and market, and
makes a very delicate white wine, superior to Catawba.
Specific gravity of must 80°. Vine a strong, rampant
grower, with peculiar mottled foliage, ; generally healthy
and hardy, though occasionally subject to rot. Ripens
with Catawba. Fine on the Lakes, though it develops a
stronger feline flavor there.
Ives.—Whoever is satisfied with a grape which is
healthy and hardy, and an abundant bearer, but of very
poor quality, may plant the Ives. I confess that I would
rather not have any grapes if I could not have better
than the Ives. It is well enough known to need no de-
scription, and, in fact, deserves none, but it will yield an
abundance of fruit, which will color early, generally
spoils the market for good grapes; hangs well to the
bunch, and will do for stewing and preserving, also
makes a tolerable Claret wine, if allowed to hang very
long, and fortified with sugar. Specific gravity of
must 72°.
LinpLEY.—( Rogers’ Hybrid No. 7). Bunch large and
long, moderately compact, shouldered; berry medium,
about the size of Catawba, round, pale red, with beautiful
violet bloom, sweet, juicy, and high flavored ; skin not
thick, but tough, which makes it keep excellently.
Ripens about the same time as Catawba; an abundant
bearer, a strong, long-jointed grower, and a valuable table
and market grape, especiaily on account of its keeping
qualities, though too high flavored for wine.
MartHa.—Originated with Samuel Miller, at Calmdale, *
' Pa., and has long held its place as ‘‘ the best white grape
for everybody,” on account of its health, productiveness,
and fair quality for table and wine. It is a seedling of
the Concord, and a decided improvement on it. Bunch
medium, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry medium,
40 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
smaller than Concord, round, greenish-yellow, with white
bloom ; skin thin, pulp softer than in Concord, juicy and
sweet ; good when just colored; when dead ripe it be-
comes somewhat insipid and foxy. Vine a strong,
healthy grower, succeeding on almost any soil; fruit less
liable to rot than Concord, and containing more sugar ;
also retains but little of its foxy character in its wine,
which resembles good Catawba. Specific gravity of must
85°. ‘This is certainly a valuable grape, as it is also even
hardier than the Concord, but will now, it is very vee
be superseded by the Elvira.
MAssasort.—A very early grape of excellent quality.
Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry above
medium, pale red, with lilac bloom, slightly oblong, very
juicy, sweet and fine flavored; the best early grape I
know, ripens about as early as Hartford Prolific, and
when merely soft, is better than Hartford at its prime.
Is full ds early as Delaware, to my taste better, and will
succeed more generally than that. A beautiful and good
market and table grape, and also makes a very fine wine.
Vine a good grower and bearer. Specific gravity of must
85°
PERKINS.—Those who do not object to a good deal of
foxy aroma, will be pleased with this, as it is very early,
hardy, and productive. Bunch medium, rather loose,
shouldered ; berry oblong, pale red, with fine lilac bloom,
sweet, but foxy; apt to drop from the bunch when very
ripe. Ripens as early as Hartford Prolific, healthy,
hardy, and very productive ; generally sells well in mar-
ket ; a strong grower, with thick, leathery leaves.
SALEM.—Bunch full medium, compact, shouldered ;
berry large, round, of a peculiar brownish color, with
lilac bloom ; juicy and sweet, with a peculiar pleasant
aroma; considered by Mr. Rogers to be the best of his
Hybrids, but it is not so generally successful here as Goethe,
)
AY
: o “\
) i
NNN .
Fig. 9.—WILDER (ROGERS’ HYBRID NO. 4). (42)
AND WINE MAKING. 43
Lindley, Massasoit, and Wilder. It is very apt to over-
bear, and should be thinned severely. Ripens about same
time as Catawba.
TELEGRAPH, OR CHRISTINE.—An early grape of very
fair quality. Bunch medium, very compact, shouldered ;
berry medium, black, with blue bloom, juicy, sweet, and
good for so early a grape, as it ripens with Hartford Pro-
lific. A strong and healthy grower, dark brown wood,
and very productive, though sometimes rotting severely.
Wi.LpER.—(fogers’ No. 4). <A beautiful and very
good grape. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, moder-
ately compact; berry large, round, black, with blue
bloom, tender pulp, sweet, juicy, and refreshing, without
foxiness, ripens earlier than Concord, and is nearly as
large and as good as Black Hamburg. Vine a good
grower, and generally healthy, but very apt to overbear,
and the fruit should be thinned severely. Fine for table
and market, and makes an agreeable light, red wine.
Specific gravity of must 78°. |
These are the most prominent and best tried of the
Labrusca class. The following are of good quality, but
haye not been so generally tried ; they may be classed as
** Promising well” :
AmintA.—( Rogers’ 39). Bunch medium, moderately
compact, shouldered ; berry full medium, round, black,
sweet, vinous, very good. Ripens earlier than Hartford, and
is much better in quality ; may, therefore, be valuable for
early market. Somewhat subject to rot. Vine a good
and clean grower, very productive.
Barry.—(Rogers’ 48). Bunch full medium, moder-
ately compact, shouldered; berry large, round, black,
with blue bloom, in quality much like Wilder, though a
little more astrmgent ; vine a good grower and bearer ;
ripens with Concord. A handsome market and table
grape. Very successful on the Lakes, and at Rochester.
44 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Breauty.—One of the seedlings of Mr. Jacob Rommel.
a cross between Delaware and Maxatawney: has been
vigorous and healthy so far; a strong grower, and very
productive. It has fruited seven years in succession.
Bunch full medium, compact, shouldered; berry about
the size and color of Catawba, oblong, cov oneal with lilae
bloom. Ripens here the last week in “August, Sweet, ex-
quisite flavor ; thin, but rather tough skin, tender pulp.
This promises to keep well, and as the bunches are very
even and attractive in appearance, it may be a very valu-
able market grape, as 1t is superior in quality to Dela-
ware; and as it excels the Catawba in fine and delicate
flavor, and is without its harshness and austerity in pulp,
it will very likely make a very fine, high flavored wine.
I consider this the most promising of all our varieties
of the Labrusca.
Buiack Eacur.—Originated with Mr. Stephen Under-
hill, at Croton Point, N. Y. A hybrid of Labrusca and.
vinifera. Anew early table grape of very fine quality.
Bunch large, moderately compact, shouldered ;_ berry
large, oval, black, with blue bloom, flesh rich and melt-
ing, with little pulp. The vine is a straight, handsome
grower, the leaf deeply lobed, dark green and heavy 3
shape of the foreign. Very promising so far.
Buack DEFIANCE.—Same origin as the preceding. A
hybrid between St. Petersand Concord. Bunch large ;
berry large, above Concord, black, with a fine bloom,
_ sweet, vinous, and juicy ; ripens several weeks later than
” Concord, and should it prove healthy and hardy, is about
the best ee black table grape we have.
Harty CuHAmpion.—Brought out by J. 8. Stone,
Charlotte, New York. Said to be ten days earlier than
Hartford Prolific, of better quality, very bardy and pro-
ductive, and if this is so, it certainly deserves trial as an
early market grape.
AND WINE MAKING. 45
Eva.—A sister of the Martha, raised by my friend
Miller, at the same time, but has been sadly neglected.
Our friend Campbell claims that it is better than Martha.
To me it seems to be nearly the same.
Lapy.—Mr. George W. Campbell claims for this that
it is the best and earliest white grape now grown,
and it is certainly a good and beautiful fruit, when just
colored. I had occasion to taste it a number of times,
‘and found it best when just soft; the riper it gets, the
more insipid and foxy it becomes. So far it has not
given satisfaction as a grower and bearer here, and has
also rotted badly ; but friend Campbell generally knows
whereof he affirms, and it must be good in Northern
Ohio, from all I can learn. Bunch medium, compact ;
berry full medium, pale yellow, with white bloom, pulp
tender, sweet, juicy. Said to be jten days earlier than
-Concord.
TrrumpaH.—A hybrid between Chasselas Musqué and
Concord, grown by Geo. W. Campbell, Delaware, Ohio,
and considered by him too late for that section, and
-wanting in character. Here in Missouri it ripens to per-
fection, and is certainly one of the most attractive white
grapes for the table I have yet seen. Friend Miller, of
Bluffton, has it in propagation, and has fruited it sev-
eral years. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, moder-
ately compact; berry very lerge, golden-yellow, transpar-
ent, with delicate bloom ; skin thin, pulp tender, sweet,
juicy, and excellent. Ripens about with Catawba. It
seems to be hardy and tolerably healthy, as it has rotted
less than Concord, and it, therefore, certainly deserves a
trial, as such grapes as it produces are a feast to any one,
and would readily sell at 25 cents perpound. Succeeded
finely here last summer.
On a recent Hastern round among the vineyards of
Western New *York, I examined the following, which I
46 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
think may safely be added to the list of ‘‘ Promising
well.” The Prentiss and Mr. Ricketts’ seedlings I saw
on the grounds of the originators, at Crooked Lake and
at Newburgh, and under circumstances which I thought
not at all favorable to their highest development. I
think it my duty to state this, as I had been led to be-
lieve that Mr. Ricketts’ seedlings had been petted, pam-
pered, and protected, all of which I found just the re-
verse, and came to the conclusion that the treatment they
received was not at all calculated to ee their best
points.
BriGHTON.—Seen on the grounds of Mr. EH. Hooker,
Rochester. Vine very preface. foliage moderately
healthy, though perhaps not so healthy as Concord.
Bunch large, pinion de berry medium, about size of
Catawba, round, promeiede red, very handsome, sweet,
without being insipid; to my taste better than Dela-
ware, because more vinous; pulp tender, very juicy.
Very promising.
Earty Dawn.—Good in quality, said to be very early,
hardy, and productive. Bunch medium ; berry full me-
dium, black, sweet, and good.
Moor#’s EARLY.—Seen at the exhibition at Rochester.
Although not very good in quality, it is a very handsome
bunch and berry, and seems to be especially valuable at
the North, on account of its extreme earliness. Bunch
very large and shouldered, compact ; berry large, resem-
bling Wilder in size and form, black, fair in quality, but
not high flavored or tenderin pulp. Its chief value seems
to be its early ripening, vigor, and hardiness.
NtaAGArA.—Seeds planted in 1868, first fruited by
Hoag & Clark, of Lockport, N. Y., in 1872. Cross be-
tween Concord and Cassady; bunch very large and
heavy, compact ; berry large, slightly oblong, semi-trans-
parent, greenish-white, bronzed in sun, adheres well
AND WINE MAKING. 474
to the bunch, flesh tender, sweet and melting, good
flavor, skin tough, and bears handling well; said to be
as early as Hartford in ripening, but keeps well on the
vine; foliage thick and healthy, vine strong grower and
hardy, bears very abundantly. This is the description
of the originators. They say that a vine four years
planted, is bearing 40 lbs. of superior fruit. I saw the
grape at Rochester, and was pleased with size of bunch,
quality, and general appearance. A promising market
grape.
PockLINGTON.—This is, certainly, a “‘ big thing”;
though not of the best, or even very good quality, will sell.
A seedling from Concord, grown by John Pocklington,
of Sandy Hill, Washington Co., N. Y. Vine a strong
grower, with immense leaves, very heavy in texture, and
is said to never mildew. Bunch very large and heavy,
shouldered ; berry nearly an inch in diameter, pale yellow,
covered with bloom, round, quality about like Concord.
It was not fully ripe when I saw it. Mr. John Chorlton,
who offers it for sale, claims that it becomes very juicy
and sweet to the center. Very promising as a market
grape.
Ducusss. — Originated with Mr. N. J. Caywood,
Ulster Co., N. Y., who also originated the Walter, and I
will only hope that this will be more generally successful. -
- Bunch medium to large, often 8 inches long, shoulder-
ed, compact; berry medium, round, greenish-white ;
skin thin, flesh tender, without pulp, sprightly, rich and
vinous. Its originator claims for it that it has been
grown in different localities, North and South, for the
last ten years, and has never failed ; that it has but one
small seed, that it will hang on the vines until frost, bear
transportation better than any other variety, and that it
excels in growth the Concord, Clinton, and Taylor.
When we remember how Mr. Caywood also claimed su-
48 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
perior excellence and hardiness for the Walter, which has
so utterly failed in most sections that it 1s now rarely
seen, we would accept his testimony with a good deal of
caution, and make allowance for his enthusiasm, but the
quality and appearance of the fruit, as we saw it, certainly
warrants trial.
PRENTISS.—This is now in the hands of that enter-
prising grape-grower, T’. 8. Hubbard, of Fredonia, N. Y.,
and not yet offered for sale. He sent me a bunch in
1878, which impressed me very favorably. The show at
Rochester was grand, and I determined to see it on the
grounds of its originator, and copy from the notes taken
there. Mr. Prentiss is an enthusiastic grape-grower, but
very cautious in recommending anything new, which,
perhaps, has kept his seedling in the dark so long, as he
has fruited it for nearly twenty years. The original vine
stands in rather a poor location, on the side of a ravine,
and had an immense load of fruit, but made a good
growth of wood nevertheless. I think its present crop
would come to 25 lbs. at least. The bunches were all
perfect, though backward in ripening. It is a seedling of
Isabella; bunch medium, very compact, occasionally
shouldered ; berry medium, slightly oblong, resembling
Rebecca very closely, and about the same quality, green-
ish-white ; skin tough and firm, enabling it to carry to
market in good condition ; sweet and good, though not of
high character. Mr. Prentiss has quite a number of
vines of it in bearing, in different parts of the vineyard,
all heavily loaded. Foliage also resembles Rebecca, but is
larger, not so deeply lobed, thicker, and more leathery.
He ships to New York markets, and readily obtains 16
cents per pound for all he can send of the Prentiss. The
particular location near the lake may have something
to do with this eminent success, but the grape certainly
deserves trial as a market grape in other sections. I
think it lacks the sprightliness of a good wine grape.
i
oh
Wg
2 -
iy é ;
i
il
fill, Dg
WA (
Fig. 10.—PRENTISS.—(Lrom a Fhotograph.)
(49)
AND WINE MAKING. 5
Mr. Pentiss has also two other seedlings, which I think
highly promising, not ee named, of which I made the
following notes :
No. 1.—Bunch very compact, seldom shouldered, me-
‘dium; berry medium, round, black, with blue bloom,
very sweet, pulp tender, buttery, taste pure, without
foxiness, with considerable colormg matter in its skin.
Ripens fully as early as Concord ; promising for red wine ;
vine a good grower, healthy, and productive; fruited
about 5 years; never rotted.
No. 2.—Bunch long, loose, not shouldered ;_ berry.
round, a trifle larger than Catawba, dark red, pulp
tender, vinous, fine flavor, better than Catawba, with u
very pleasant mingling of acid and sweet; seems to ve
healthy and productive ; fruited for the fir - time.
Mr. Ricketts’ seedlings :
Foremost among these, in our estimation, is the
Lapy WASHINGTON, which is a magnificent grape, and
its robust growth and large, leathery leaves, give promise
of health elsewhere as well as in its native locality. The
original vine has now fruited five seasons. It is a seed-
ling of Concord, crosséd with Allen’s Hybrid. Bunch
very large and long, rather loose, shouldered, often
weighing a pound and a half; berry full medium, round,
white, with a rosy tint when exposed to the sun, trans-
parent, juicy, sweet, and good.
JEFFERSON.—This is now in the hands of Mr. J. G.
Burrows, of Fishkill. Cross between Concord and Iona.
Vine vigorous and productive, leaves large, thick, downy,
wood short-jointed ; bunch very large, often with double |
shoulder, very compact ; berry large, roundish oval,
light red, with thin lilac bloom, flesh meaty, or solid,
tender, juicy, sweet, but sprightly.
_ HigHLAND.—Good healthy leaf; large, fine bunch ;
52 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
berry black, large, round, very showy, and good in
quality.
Ricketts’ No. 1.—A hybrid of Israella and Muscat
Hamburg, fruited for 10 years. Vine very vigorous and
productive, wood short-jointed, leaves medium sized,
lobed, thick, and overlap; bunch very large, long, com-
pact, shouldered ; berry large, oval, purplish-black, with
thick gray bloom, flesh tender, juicy, sweet, rather rich,
very good. A promising market grape.
No. 11.—Hartford and Muscat. Strong grower, leaf
hardy and healthy ; bunch medium, shouldered ; berry
above medium, round, pale yellow, sweet, pulp soft,
good.
PLANET.—Concord and Black Muscat of Alexandria.
Healthy and productive ; bunch large, loose, shouldered ;
berry large, intermixed with some smaller ones, which
have no seed, oblong, very tender pulp, juicy, sweet, fine
flavor, slight taste of the Muscat.
No. 502.—Hartford and Iona. Leaf healthy; bunch
compact, heavy ; berry medium, black, with blue bloom,
leathery, resembling Creveling in taste.
No. 250.—Ives and Catawba. Strong grower, healthy
leaf; bunch heavy, shouldered, compact; berry above
medium, round, black, blue bloom; skin tough, fair
quality, very handsome, would be a splendid shipping
grape.
No. 331.—Concord and Herbemont. Foliage resem-
bling Concord, healthy, and hardy ; bunch medium, com-
pact, shouldered ; berry below medium, round, juicy,
rather pulpy, makes a fine, red wine, with a slight almond
taste.
These are the most promising of the numerous seed-
lings of the Labrusca and its hybrids which Mr. Ricketts
- has originated. He has also a number of cordifolia seed-
AND WINE MAKING. 5D
lings, which are highly promising, and to which I will
refer when I describe that class.
Mr. Jacob Madinger, of St. Joseph, Mo., has several
Concord seedlings, which may be valuable as showy and
handsome market grapes of good quality. I have only
‘seen some dilapidated bunches, too ripe, and roughly
handled ; the berries are much larger than Concord, and
seem to be of very fair quality.
Storm Kine.—Originated by Mr. E. P. Roe, Corn-
wall-on-the-Hudson, N. Y. Seems to be an accidental
sport of a Concord vine, which, as he says, has borne
the same mammoth fruit for twelve years. Bunch large
and heavy, shouldered; berry resembling Concord, but
nearly twice as large, black, round, with very little foxi-
ness; juicy, and good.
CotraGEe.—By Mr. Bull, the originator of the Concord.
This is very promising, seems to be a strong grower,
earlier than its parent, and of much better quality. I
hope to see more of it next season.
The following are said to be of good quality, but are
not sufficiently known to me to venture an opinion upon
their merits: Cambridge, Challenge, Clover Street Red
and Black, Columbia, Concord Chasselas, Concord Mus-
cat, Conqueror, Dana, Detroit, Eureka, Flora, Gaertner,
Herbert, Irving, Ithaca, Pollock, Rogers’ 5, Senasqua.
The following I consider worthless, and think they
should be discarded, as we can certainly grow better, or
more healthy sorts. Some are of good quality, but
tender or unproductive and unhealthy: Adirondack,
Alexander, Agawam, Albino, Allen’s Hybrid, Amanda,
Anna, Arrott, August Pioneer, Berks, Bland, Blood’s
Black, Blue Imperial, Burton’s Early, Camden, Canby’s
August, Cassady, Charter Oak, Clara, Macedonia, Cow-
an, Croton, Diana, Diana Hamburg, Dracut Amber,
Karly Hudson, Elizabeth, Framingham, Graham, Hart-
54 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ford, Hettie, Howell, Iona, Isabella, Israella, King-
sessing, Labe, Logan, Lydia, Lyman, Creveling, Maguire,
Mary, Maxatawney, Merrimac, Miles, Venango, Mount
Lebanon, Mottled, Neff, North America, Northern Mus-
cadine, North Carolina, Rebecca, Seneca, St. Catherine,
Walter.
CHAPTER X.
THE ESTIVALIS CLASS.—FOR GENERAL CULTIVATION.
CYNTHIANA.—Synonym, Red River. This most valu-
able grape was obtained by me from Wm. R. Prince, who
had it from Arkansas, and introduced it into Missouri
about 1858. It resembled the Norton so much in growth
and foliage, that I supposed it to be identical with it, un-
til it bore fruit, and more especially when I made wine
from it, when the difference became very apparent. Tus
seeming identity has prevented its dissemination, as many
still believe it to be the same, but the bunch is generally
heavier, with broader shoulders, the berry somewhat
larger, sweeter, and less astringent, and the wine is not
quite as dark, less rough and astringent, without that
coffee-like taste of the Norton, and much more spicy and
delicate, resembling the best Burgundy. Those who
have tasted good Cynthiana wine once, will not easily
forget it; and the fact that, besides the innumerable
premiums awarded in this country, it was awarded the
first premium as ‘‘ best red wine of all nations,” at the
Vienna Exposition, should speak volumes in its praise,
and warrant the belief, so often expressed by me, that it
will become one of the staples of the country, and can not
be excelled anywhere. Bunch medium, compact, shoul-
dered ; berry below medium, black, with blue bloom,
dl
.
i
MW fj
LES
X/
(55)
Fig. 11.—CYNTHIANA.
AND WINE MAKING. a7
sweet, and vinous, with dark-red juice, moderately juicy,
very rich. Specific gravity of must 118°. Vine a good
grower, healthy, and hardy, but does not grow readily
from cuttings, and will not bear much before the third
year, when it becomes very productive ; not liable to any
‘ disease, and one of the surest we have ; will bear best on
spurs on old wood, like the Norton’s.
Norton’s ViIRGINIA.—Synonyms, Norton’s Seedling,
Virginia Seedling. Introduced by Dr. Norton, of Vir-
ginia, who found it on an island in the Potomac. Intro-
duced into Missouri in 1850. It caused a revolution in
grape culture here, as its merits as a uniformly reliable
grape for red wine became fully known. There is, per-
haps, no other grape which has given such uniform satis-
faction as this, and although I have warmly praised and
recommended it from the first, I have seen no reason to
retract a single word which I have said in its favor. It
seems to succeed everywhere, though its products, of
course, differ, and I had occasion to admire a splendid
exhibition of it at the Centennial, from Egg Harbor City,
New Jersey, where I first saw it, and had occasion to try
its wine. As made there, it has not the heavy character
of our Missouri Norton’s, but is a very good Claret.
Bunch and berry smaller than Cynthiana, and not so
heavily shouldered ; berry small, black, with blue bloom,
with a very dark-colored, astringent juice, though sweet
and very spicy when fully ripe. Specific gravity of must
110°. Makes, perhaps, the best medicinal wine in the
,country; it has already saved thousands of lives, especially
‘of children suffering with summer complaint, and ac-
quired a world-wide reputation. Even as a table grape,
many prefer it on account of its spicy character, and its
plump bunches will keep like winter apples. Perfectly
free from Phylloxera and other diseases; a strong and
healthy grower; bears best on spurs on old arms. As
it starts late in spring, it is also not liable to spring frosts.
aye) AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
HERBEMONT.—Synonyms, Warren, Warrenton, Herbe-
mont’s Maderia. <A specifically Southern grape, for which
we in Missouri are too far north, but where it is in its
proper latitude, one of the very best. Bunch large and
heavy, compact, shouldered ; berry below medium, black,
with blue bloom ; skin thin, no pulp, but its berries are
filled with the most spicy and refreshing juice, which that
nice discriminator of fruits, the late A. J. Downing,
called ‘‘bags of wine.” Fine for the table, and when
pressed immediately, makes an exquisite white wine ; if
allowed to ferment on the husks, a pale red wine, some-
what resembling Madeira. Should be planted on south-
ern locations, in rather poor soil, which is naturally well
drained ; it is useless to plant it on rich soils, or those
retentive of moisture, as it will grow too rampant, and
not ripen its wood. My friend, Onderdonk, of Victoria,
Texas, writes to me, that it is the best and most success-
ful grape they cultivate, and it has for several years been
largely imported into France, as its roots are Phylloxera
proof, and it succeeds splendidly there. Ripens rather
late, and is somewhat tender even here. It promises to
make the foundation of a race of true wine grapes, and if
we can obtain seedlings of it, with all the good qualities
of the parent, but somewhat earler and more hardy, they
will be all that can be desired. Mr. Onderdonk already
reports one seedling, the Harvard, in all respects similar
to the Herbemont, but double the size, and may become
exceedingly valuable. The Herbemont is astrong and very
beautiful grower, very productive, but somewhat subject
to a peculiar kind of dry rot. Leaves large and thin,
light green, deeply lobed. Specific gravity of must 85°.
SS Xs
ys »
TK
\
\
e ab
eC a \
Lp :
: \
\)
a wy
Fig. 12.—HERBEMONT. (59)
AND WINE MAKING, 61
CHAPTER XI.
THE ZSTIVALIS CLASS.—VARIETIES PROMISING WELL.
CUNNINGHAM.—Synonym, Long. Much like the fore-
going in bunch and berry, belonging to the southern
branch of the estivalis class. Bunch very compact,
heavy-shouldered ; berry smaller than Herbemont, brown-
ish red, with blue bloom; skin tougher and thicker,
ripening about the same time. Not so good for the
table, but will make a very heavy wine of a Sherry char-
acter, while the Herbemout is more like Rhenish wine.
The must is very rich in sugar, but also in acid, and the
grape very high flavored. A very strong, short-jointed,
late grower, ripening not even as well as the Herbemont,
and should, therefore, be cultivated only in the South.
It succeeds splendidly in France, and is very highly
esteemed there for its fruit, as well as its total resistance
to Phylloxera. It has heart-shaped leaves, not lobed.
Specific gravity of must 110°.
LENorR.— Synonyms, Devereaux, Black Spanish,
Jacques, Jack Grape. There has been a great deal of
confusion about this grape, and it has even been con-
founded with the Ohio, or Cigar Box, but I think the
above is its true name. It is the same which the
French have cultivated as Black Spanish, or Jacques, and
value so highly, owing to its success in France ; its entire
freedom from ‘Phylloxera, and the excellent red wine it
makes. I have been thoroughly sifting the question of
its identity, and Mr. Onderdonk, who says it is the
best grape they grow in Texas, next to the Herbemont,
has been indefatigable in his exertions to help me clear
up this matter. It is even more southern in its character
than the two foregoing. Bunch very long, loose, shoul-
62 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
dered ; berry small, black, with blue bloom ; skin as thin
as Herbemont, no pulp, juice very dark red, sweet, and
rich, making a svlendid deep red wine of exquisite flavor.
Specific gravity of must 110°. I have cultivated the vine
for a number of years, but had to abandon it, as it evi-
‘dently is too far north here; in the South it must be
very desirable. Vine a strong, rather long-jointed
erower, wood brown, leaves very thin, bright green,
deeply lobed.
Hermann.—A seedling of the Norton, grown by Mr.
Francis Langendoerfer, Hermann, Mo. Bunch long,
shouldered, moderately compact ; berry smaller than
Norton’s, black, with blue bloom, not very juicy, but
very high flavored, juice not so dark, and will make a
fine golden Sherry wine, if properly handled. It ripens
later than Norton’s, and as it is a strong grower and very
productive, is certainly worthy of extensive trial here and
- further south. Specific gravity of must 110°. Mr.
Langendoerfer has grown a white seedling of it, resem-
bling the parent in berry and bunch, but of a transparent,
golden color, of which I have tried the wine, and must
pronounce it the most exquisite w-ne | ever tasted, of a pale
yellow color, with the Hermann flavor trebly refined. He
also has a white Norton’s Seedling, which also makes
fine wine, and as these two are the first white westivalis
yet produced, they promise a new departure in another
direction from this valuable class. Very productive,
healthy, and hardy at Sedalia last season.
RULANDER.—This is not the German. grape of this
name, but also one of the southern e@stivalis class. It
also makes a very fine wine, of a Sherry character, but
has, of late, become rather unproductive. Bunch small,
compact, shouldered ; berry small, brownish black, with
blue bloom, very sweet, and high flavored. Specific
gravity of must 112°. It is a stocky, short-jointed
/
AND WINE MAKING. 63
grower, with grayish wood, heart-shaped, shining leaves,
and sometimes very productive, but rather fickle and
variable. The same may be said of the Louisiana, which
so closely resembles it that it has been confounded with
it, but the wine of the Louisiana resembles a very fine
~ Hock, while the Rulander has a Sherry character.
ALVEY, OR HAGaAr.—An exquisite little grape, the
earliest of that class ; so good that the birds will gener-
ally take itall. Bunch medium, shouldered, loose ; berry
small, shining black; skin thin, very juicy, sweet and
luscious, one of the best in quality I know, and makes a
fine red wine. Specific gravity of must 90°. <A stocky,
short-jointed grower, with heart-shaped leaves, and about
the only one of its class which propagates readily from
cuttings.
Lincotn.—This I suppose to be identical with Black
July. Mr. Phifer, of Concord, North Carolina, where it
is considerably cultivated, gives it very high praise, as
being productive and healthy, and making a fine, high-
flavored, light-red wine. I have grafts of it grow-
ing; it has heart-shaped leaves, and seems to be a good
healthy grower.
BALDWIN LeENoIR.—Mr. Saunders, Supt. of Public
Grounds, at Washington, thinks very highly of this,
and as it has fruited for me last year, I can also testify
to its good quality. The vine resembles the Norton,
in wood and leaf. Bunch small, very compact, shoul-
dered ; berry small, round, black, with blue bloom, also
resembling Norton, but to my taste sweeter, more juicy,
and high flavored. I have no doubt it will make a first
class red wine, and should it prove as productive as the
Norton and Cynthiana, will be very valuable.
NeosHo.—This is a wild grape from the woods, culti-
vated by Mr. Hermann Jaeger, of Neosho, Mo. That
veteran in grape culture, Fr. Muench, of Warren Co.,
64 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Mo., thinks this one of the best grapes he cultivates. It
is a strong, rampant grower, very productive, but like
all of its class, very difficult to propagate. Bunch heavy,
compact, shouldered ; berry below medium, purplish-
black, with blue bloom, not very juicy ; the juice is of a
much lighter red than that of the Norton, and has a diff-
erent flavor, more resembling Sherry. There has been
some confusion between this and the Racine, of same
origin, but I think the Neosho much more valuable than
Racine.
Far West.—Mr. Muench also speaks very highly
of this variety, which comes from the same neighborhood,
and I place great confidence in his judgment.
Mr. Jaeger recently sent me a box of eight varieties of
grapes, and although I tested them nearly three weeks
after they had been sent, I was surprised to find, even
after so long a time, such evidences of decided merit.
I give descriptions of them as they appeared to me then,
and have no doubt that, under the circumstances, it falls
far short of what they are when fresh from the vine. As
they all come from the same stock, the wild estivalis,
they show perhaps as much improvement as those of any
other class.
JAEGER’S No. 9.—Bunch compact, shouldered ; berry
below medium, round, black, with blue bloom, fine flavor,
sweet, and good. Promising for wine.
JAEGER’S No, 13.—Bunch large and heavy, compact,
shouldered ; berry medium, black, pulpy, dark juice,
good flavor. Promising for red wine.
JAEGER’S No, 22.—Bunch very heavy, large, and long,
compact ; berry about size of Catawba, round, deep
purple, sweet, and good. Notas dark a juice as 9 and 13.
JAEGER’S No. 32.—Very similar to Norton’s, but ex-
ceedingly sweet ; must make a very heavy, dark colored
wine.
AND WINE MAKING. 65
Ractne.—The least valuable, very sweet, but small
berry, very pulpy, and full of seeds.
NrosHo.—Larger bunch and berry than Racine, more
juicy, fine flavor, bunch and berry larger than Norton’s,
. lighter colored juice.
WuitE Norton.—Originated with F. Langendoerfer,
near Hermann, Mo. Bunch and berry resembling Nor-
ton in size, but white ; sweet, fine flavor, and very juicy.
BALSIGER’S WHITE Norton.—Berry larger than the
preceding, more juicy, fine flavor, resembling Elvira
somewhat, very good.
Discarded Varieties.—Baxter, Ohio, Pauline, Raabe.
These are either too unhealthy, or of too poor quality to
be worthy of cultivation.
CHAPTER XII.
CORDIFOLIA CLASS (or RIPARIA, according to Engelmann),
This class, so far only represented by varieties of either
indifferent quality, such as Clinton, Anghwick, Blue
Dyer, Burroughs, Franklin, Huntingdon, Kitchen, New-
ark, Marion, Oporto, or such as are rather unproductive
or subject to disease, as the Autuchon, Brant, Canada,
Cornucopia, Golden Clinton, and Taylor, also has taken
a new departure, with the seedlings from Taylor, raised
by Mr. Jacob Rommel, and now promises to furnish us
the leading white wine grapes of the country, and like-
wise valuable market grapes. Had their originator pro-
duced nothing but the Elvira, he would be remembered by
generations to come, but he is confident that he can still
66 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
surpass it in quality, if not in productiveness and hardi-
ness, for the latter would be impossible. Guided by the
idea that the Taylor need only be improved in size and
productiveness, as its wine was good enough, he sowed
the seed of the best Taylor grapes he could find, and
now, after nine years of trial with the Elvira, in which it
has never missed an abundant crop, and after careful
tests of the wine, I do not hesitate to call it the most
useful, and in that sense, the best white grape we have,
and were I restricted to one variety only, would unhesi-
tatingly choose this. As it is not near as well known as
it deserves to be, I will give a full description of it, and I ~
think I can do the grape-growers of our country no greater
service, than in prevailing upon them all to try it.
ELvrra. — Originated with Mr. Jacob Rommel, of
Morrison, Mo., from seed of the Taylor, and fruited first
in 1869, but has since improved every year in size of
bunch and berry, until, from a very small berry, with
small but compact bunch, it has now become as large as
Catawba in berry, and almost as large in bunch. Every
one should plant it for the following seven reasons :
1. Its extreme hardiness. It has withstood the ex-
tremely cold winters of 1872-73 and 1874~75, without
the slightest injury; when even the Concord suffered
more or less everywhere throughout the State, the Elvira
produced a full crop.
2. Its freedom from disease. It has proved singularly
healthy and produced full crops for ten years in succes-
sion ; when nearly all varieties rotted badly (except Ives,
Norton’s, Cynthiana, and some other seedlings of Mr.
Rommel, of whom I shall speak hereafter), the Elvira
produced a full crop, averaging, in Mr. Rommel’s vine-
yard, from 20 to 25 Ibs. to the vine.
3. Its immense productiveness. All the fruit-bearing
branches produce from four to six bunches, and a piece
}
(67)
Fig. 13.—ELVIRA.
AND WINE MAKING. 69
of a bearing cane with clusters about a foot long, weighed
eight pounds.
4, Its handsome and vigorous growth. It is a stocky,
short-jointed grower, not rambling, like the Taylor and
Clinton, but a perfect picture of a vine, having thick,
light green and abundant foliage, with pale gray, short-
jointed wood, and is, therefore, well adapted to vineyard
and arbor culture.
5. Its handsome bunch and berry. This has improved
very much since it first fruited, and may still improve.
Bunch medium, shouldered, very compact ; berry about
the size of the Catawba, round, light green in the shade,
pale yellow where more exposed, transparent; skin, thin,
pulp tender, very juicy and sweet; flavor fine, pure, with-
out foxiness, ripening a few days later than Concord.
6. Its fine quality for wine. The must of the Elvira is
about as heavy as good Catawba, if well ripened. Specific
gravity 85°. Makes a beautiful greenish-yellow wine,
without foxiness, and a delicate and full aroma, resemb-
ling Riesling. In this respect it will satisfy even the
most fastidious fancier of Rhenish wines, and as it can be
produced cheaply, we shall have in it what we have been
seeking so long, a true wine grape within the reach of all.
7. Easy propagation. It grows readily from cuttings,
and being a Taylor seedling, is likely to be Phylloxera
proof, and remain healthy.
We are, however, in justice, compelled to say, that it
has one fault, which has proved a serious drawback to it
in the Hast during the season of 1879. The bunch is so
compact, that the berries crowd each other, and being
very thin skinned, they are liable to crack after a drouth,
succeeded by a shower of rain. Otherwise, it has proved
a complete success, even at the East.
70 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XIII.
THE CORDIFOLIA CLASS.—VARIETIES PROMISING WELL, ©
The following are sisters of the Elvira, and may sur-
pass it in quality, but have not been so long and gener-
ally tried; moreover Mr. Rommel does not intend to
send them out immediately, if at all, for he says: ‘‘ They
shall prove best in every respect, or not go out at all,
as the public have already varieties enough, even too
many, unless we can add to the number something much
better than we already have. There shall be no humbug
in my grapes.” ‘They have fruited six years now, and I
also have them fruiting this summer, in an entirely differ-
ent locality ; two seasons of further trial will fully show
what they are. No one need apply, either to him or me,
for any vines or wood until some months yet.
No. 5. TRANSPARENT.—(Taylor seedling). Bunch
medium, somewhat larger than the largest Taylor, and
has increased in size already, compact, and shouldered ;
berry about same size as Taylor, round, pale yellow, trans-
parent, so that the seeds can be seen, with gray dots, no
pulp, skin thin, very juicy, sweet, and of fine flavor.
This has always set its fruit perfectly, and as its must
contains a large amount of saccharine matter, will make a
wine which has hardly had its equal yet. Vine a strong
and rather long-jointed grower, resembling its parent in
leaf and growth.
No. 8 AmpBer.—{Taylor seedling). Bunch large,
shouldered, moderately compact ; berry medium, oblong,
pale amber when fully ripe, sweet, juicy ; pulp very ten-
der ; skin thin, very fine flavor. Ripens about the same
time as Catawba, very productive so far, and entirely
hardy and healthy. An exquisite table grape, combining
fine quality with attractive appearance, though its skin
Fig. 14.—aMBrr.
is}
AND WINE MAKING. 13
may be too tender to ship to distant markets. It will,
no doubt, also make a very fine white wine. <A strong
grower, dark brown wood, large and healthy leaves.
No. 10. Peart.—(Taylor seedling). Bunch heavy,
larger than Elvira, compact, shouldered ; berry full me-
dium, round, pale yellow, covered with a delicate bloom;
skin thin and transparent; pulp soft and melting, juicy,
sweet, and high flavored; of great promise both asa table
and wine grape; very productive and healthy so far.
Ripens a few days later than Concord. Vine a strong
healthy grower, large, bright green leaves, and grayish
wood.
Mr. Rt. has a great number of other seedlings. One, a
Delaware seedling, black, which ripens four or five days
before the Hartford, and may become valuable as an early
- market grape, as it is of good quality, No. 12, much re-
sembling Elvira, may also be valuable.
No. 20.—A black Taylor seedling, with a peculiar plum-
like consistency and flavor, very agreeable. Another ac-
cidental seedling which Mrs, Rommel] found and saved,
is the most delicate berry I ever saw, with a skin as thin
and transparent as cobwebs, pale green, no pulp, and
very sweet; flavor, pure. So far the bunch is very loose,
though it sets an immense number of them. Mr. Rom-
mel made some wine of it this fall, which he thinks the
finest he has yet tasted. Should the bunch improve, it
may become one of our most valuable wine grapes.
No. 14. —A black Taylor seedling, which promises very
highly for red wine. A seedling of the Elvira, which he
thinks far superior to its parent, has fruited but once,
and shows evidences of great merit.
UnLanpd.—This is another Taylor seedling, highly
promising for white wine, grown by Mr. Wm. Weyde-
meyer, at Hermann. It makes a heavier and higher
flavored wine than Elvira, but the leaf is hardly so heavy
4
V4 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
and healthy, suffering more from sun scald. Bunch me-
dium, compact, shouldered ; berry medium, pale yellow
in the shade, pale amber in the sun, slightly oblong ; skin
thin, transparent; juicy, and high flavored. Very pro-
ductive and hardy, and generally healthy. Vine astrong,
somewhat long-jointed grower, wood grayish, leaf re-
sembling Taylor. Specific gravity of must 95°. Has
fruited for four or five years, and the wine is highly
praised by connoisseurs, as resembling heavy Rhenish
wine.
Missourr RIESLING. —This was originated by Mr.
Nicolas Grein, of Gasconade Co., Mo. Itis evidently a Tay-
lor seedling, and has proved very hardy, healthy, and pro-
ductive wherever tried. Vine vigorous and very healthy ;
leaves thick and healthy; a short-jointed grower, very
productive. Bunch medium, moderately compact, shoul-
dered ; berry rather below medium, round, greenish-
white, juicy, and free from pulp; fine quality; said to
make an exquisite white wine.
Noau.—Originated by Edward Wasserzieher, Nauvoo,
Ill., from seed of the Taylor. Bunch medium, shoul-
dered, moderately compact ; berry medium, round, pale
yellow, with white bloom; very sweet, but rather hard
pulp, good flavor ; said to be very productive and hardy.
The following are Clinton seedlings, grown by Mr.
James H. Ricketts, of Newburgh, N. Y.:
PizaArro.—Seedling of Clinton and a foreign grape,
foliage resembling Clinton, productive; bunch long, rather
loose ; berry medium, oblong, black, very juicy and spicy ;
promising for wine. A sample of wine made from it was
of light red color, with very fine aroma.
Baccuus.—Very healthy, and enormously productive,
as the original vine bore about 1,000 bunches this season,
all perfect. In 1877, the same vine yielded nine gallons
and a quart of juice; a seedling of Clinton, which it re-
AND WINE MAKING. (5)
sembles in leaf, bunch, and berry, but is much better.
Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry below me-
dium, black, with blue bloom; juicy, and sprightly. The
must weighs from 95° to 110°. Some wine from it which
,1 tasted, was brownish-red, sprightly, very heavy, and of
fine flavor.
ARIADNE.—Clintom seedling ; promising for wine, but
so overloaded that it could hardly be called a fair test ;
bunch compact, resembling Clinton, but very much bet-
ter, very juicy and sweet; juice dark. Some wine I
tasted was light-red, very heavy, with fine flavor.
Naomi.—Vine vigorous, very productive, a hybrid of
Clinton and one of the Muscats, fruited ten years, leaves
very large, coarsely serrated. Bunch very large, shoul-
dered ; berry medium, roundish oval, pale green, often
with a tinge of red in the sun, covered with white bloom;
flesh juicy, melting, sweet, and sprightly; ripens with
the Concord.
No. 234.—A white grape, with foliage like Clinton ;
makes a very fine, deep yellow wine with a slight Sherry
flavor.
No. 231.—Clinton hybridized with foreign. Vine pro-
ductive ; makes a straw-colored wine, somewhat sweet ;
must 104°, fine flavor.
No. 413.—A seedling of Bacchus. Vine vigorous and
healthy. Bunch medium, compact, seldom shouldered ;
berry medium, black, with blue bloom, spicy, and very
sweet ; promising for light-red wine, and as a good table
grape.
These are the most promising of Mr. Ricketts’ grapes
that I saw. He has a multitude of others, all fine, but
either not healthy enough, or not good enough in quality,
_to compare with these. How they will do in other sec-
tions and on other soil remains to be proved, but at his
place tsey certainly are very fine.
76 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
The success of Mr. Ricketts in producing quality, at
least, from the Clinton, has been as marked as that of
Mr. Rommel, and should some of his seedlings prove
generally successful, the Clinton may become the pro-
genitor of as valuable a class of red, as the Taylor of white
wines. Some of the samples I tested with him, were very
fine indeed, and entirely distinct from anything tasted by
me before, while all show extraordinary keeping qualities.
Taking into consideration the small quantities in which
these wines were made, and all the disadvantages under
which he labored in producing them, they were some-
thing remarkable indeed. I have already referred to the
varieties which I think ought to be discarded, now that
we have so many better ones, but we ought to hold the
Taylor and Clinton in grateful remembrance, for the off-
spring they have given us, and as nearly all of them seem
to have Phylloxera-proof roots, we may look to the
estivalis and cordifolia as likely to become the founda-
tion of the new era of viticulture for the whole civilized
world. California, which seems to be the home par ea-
cellence of the vinifera, is now importing our cordifolia
and estivalis varieties. Her vineyards are threatened by
as wide-spread a devastation as those of France, and as
the cordifolia has the advantage of easy propagation and
rank growth over the estivalis, which is difficult to prop-
agate, we may naturally suppose that this class will take
the lead. Verily, this country has seen great changes
within the last ten years, and in none of the fruits have
these been more marked than in the grape.
AND WINE MAKING. 7
CHAPTER- XIV.
VARIETIES DIFFICULT TO CLASSIFY, ETC.
I think that the followmg may be crosses between the
estivalis and vinifera, as they are distinct from all others,
possessing some of the characteristics of both these classes,
and are very subject to the attacks of Phylloxera.
CREVELING.—Synonyms, Catawissa Bloom, Columbia
County, Bloomsburg, Laura Beverly. Vine hardy, a mod-
erate grower and bearer, with thin, deeply-lobed leaves.
Bunch medium, shouldered, loose ; berry medium, round,
black, with blue bloom, nearly as early as Hartford, sweet,
and good, carries well to market, but is apt to set imper-
fectly. Supposed to have originated in Pennsylvania ;
not desirable in most sections. |
DELAWARE.—Synonyms, Heath, Italian Wine, German
Grape, Traminer (erroneously). Downing says: ‘‘ It was
found many years ago in the garden of Paul H. Prevost,
Frenchtown, Hunterdon Co., N. J.” It may be a hy-
brid of vinifera and estivalis, but is certainly not the
Traminer of Germany, as was claimed by some. It was
introduced by Mr. Thompson, of Delaware, Ohio, and
extensively propagated and unduly praised by Dr. Grant,
of Iona Island, New York, who urged it for general cul-
tivation through the country. The sequel has shown
how little it was adapted to general culture. It seems
to do very well in certain localities East and North, and
where it does, it is certainly a nice little grape, sweet
and luscious for the table, and makes a fine wine. In
the West and South it has not generally given much
satisfaction, as its leaf seems too tender to withstand our
hot suns and sudden changes. It is also very subject to
Phylloxera, almost as much so as a vinifera, but could,
perhaps, be improved by grafting on healthy and hardy
18 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
stocks. It needs a rich, sandy soil, and close pruning, as
it is exceedingly productive, apt to overbear and then drop
its leaves. Bunch below medium, compact, shouldered ;
berry below medium, oblong, pale red, with beautiful
lilac bloom; skin not thick, but tough, very sweet, high
flavored, and juicy. Ripens before the Concord. Spe-
cific gravity of must 100°.
Purtry.—I think I must also place Mr. Campbell’s
little grape im this class, as it is very evidently a seedling
of Delaware. I saw it, for the first time, at the Cen-
tennial, and as he says it is hardy, healthy, and produc-
tive, it may become a valuable wine grape. I think it
well named. Bunch small, rather loose, shouldered ;
berry below medium, pale yellow, transparent, sweet, and
juicy, with no trace of foxiness or native flavor discerni-
ble. I have no doubt it would make a delightful wine.
VITIS VULPINA, THE SCUPPERNONG.
It may be expected that I shall say something about
this class, of which some of our Southern readers expect
so much. J will simply observe that I have tried to
cultivate, and once fruited the Scuppernong, or South-
ern Muscadine, but found it entirely useless, and all the
correspondence I have had with Southern grape-growers
has led me to the belief that we cannot expect real
grapes, worthy of the name, from that class, nor from
the Mustang of Texas. The Scuppernong and its vari-
eties differ entirely, in all their habits, from all other
grapes. The fruit drops as soon as ripe, is deficient in
sugar, has a very tough pulp, and strong flavor. I ven-
ture to assert, that another decade will see these grapes
dropped from the roll altogether.
I do not write for our friends on the Pacific coast.
They have so far cultivated mainly the vzn2fera, and have
a different climate and soil, so it would be preposterous
AND WINE MAKING. 19
for me to try and give them advice. I will say this much,
however, that I have tried a great many wines of their
make, and although there is a vast improvement percepti-
ble lately in the quality of their products, yet they are all
too heavy to suit the palate of the true connoisseur in
wines. It is an old established fact, that the true bouquet
wines are only grown in the temperate zones, and there
is a certain amount of acid necessary in the must to de-
velop bouquet in fermentation. Moreover, the Phylloxera
is busy at work there, and I fully believe, from all the
knowledge I can gain of the habits of that little devasta-
tor, that they will be compelled to resort to our estivalis
and cordifolia varieties, to regenerate their failing vine-
yards, as we have already seen it done in France. The
day may not be so far distant, when the despised grape of
North America will become the only hope of the failing
grape-growers of all nations. Let us then do our best to
furnish such material as wiil be an honor to the country,
and carry the fame of the “‘ Wineland” of the old legend
through the length and breadth of the earth.
CHAPTER XV.
VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT LOCALITIES.
I will now try to give a list of varieties for table and
market and one for wine, for the three sections of coun-
try, Eastern and North-Eastern States, Middle and West-
ern States, and Southern States. I do not pretend
that it should be a complete guide, for great allowance
must always be made for soil and location, and no one a
thousand miles away can give so good advice to a novice,
as he can gather in the nearest vineyards by actual ob-
servation, provided he can consult any of his neighbors.
80 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
VARIETIES FOR NORTH OF LATITUDE 42°,
Most HARDY AND PRODUCTIVE FOR TABLE AND MAr-
KET.—Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, Delaware, Martha,
Concord, Elvira, Lindley, Telegraph.
Promising Well.—Lady, Early Champion, Aminia,
Essex, Black Eagle, Amber, Pearl, Beauty, Brighton.
For Wint.—General Cultivation.—Delaware, Elvira,
for white wine; Cynthiana, and Norton’s Virginia, for
red wine.
Promising Well.—Martha, Massasoit, for white wine.
VARIETIES FOR LOCALITIES BETWEEN LATITUDE 42°—36°.
For TABLE AND Markxet.—Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder,
Telegraph, Concord, Martha, Elvira, Goethe, Lindley.
Promising Well.—Lady, Aminia, Black Eagle, Defi-
ance, Essex, Pearl, Amber, Beauty, Triumph.
For Waite Winet.—Elyira, Martha, Goethe.
Promising Well.—Pearl, Amber, Beauty, Uhland,
Transparent. ;
For Rep Wine.—Cynthiana, Norton’s Virginia.
For SHERRY.—Hermann.
Promising Well.—Hermann Seedling.
This list embraces only the older varieties, such as
have been tried several years.
VARIETIES FOR LOCALITIES SOUTH OF 36°.
For MARKET AND TABLE.—Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder,
Martha, Elvira, Goethe, Lindley, Herbemont.
Promising Well.—Lady, Black Eagle, Defiance, Tri-
umph, Rogers’ No. 2.
For Wuitrt WINE.—Elvira, Herbemont.
Promising Well.—Amber, Pearl, Beauty, Transparent.
Uhland, Hermann Seedling.
AND WINE MAKING. SL
For Rep Wint.—Cynthiana, Norton’s Virginia,
Lenoir.
For SHeRRy.—Hermann, Rulander, Cunningham,
Alvey.
Ore ae Par bee ONCE.
PLANTING THE VINE.
The distance at which the vines may be planted, will,
of course, vary with the different varieties. The rows
may all be 6 feet apart, as this is the most convenient
distance for cultivating, and gives space enough for man,
horse and plow, or cultivator. Slow growing varieties,
such as Delaware, Catawba, or Alvey, may be planted 6
feet apart. in the-rows, but Concord, Norton’s, Herbe-
mont, and all strong growing varieties, will need more
room, say from 8 to 10 feet, to give the vines ample space
to spread, and allow free circulation of air, one of the
first conditions of success. The next question is: Shall
we plant cuttings or rooted plants? The latter are by
far the best, as cuttings, even of the easiest growing va-
rieties, are uncertain, and we cannot expect to have so
even a growth as from rooted plants carefully assorted.
Choose, therefore, good, strong, one-year-old plants, the
best you can get, either from cuttings, layers, or single
yeyes. Good plants should have plenty of strong, well-
ripened roots, which are smooth and firm—for excres-
cences and warts upon the roots are a sign of Phylloxera
—and have also well-ripened, short-jomted wood. They
should be of even size, so as to make a uniform growth,
and not have been forced by the propagator into rank
growth, for we cannot expect plants that have been petted
and pampered with artificial manures, to flourish with
82 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
the every day food they obtain in the vineyard. But
do not take second or third-rate plants, if you can help
it, for they will not make the thrifty growth of first-class
plants. ‘The best are the cheapest even if they cost a
little more. Especially important is this with such va- —
rieties as Norton’s or Delaware, which do not root readily,
and are always more difficult to transplant. Better pay
double the price for them and get good plants, as they
will make healthier vines and bear sooner.
But I also caution you against those who would sell
you ‘‘extra large layers for immediate bearing,” and
whose plants are ‘‘ better than any one else grows them,”
as their advertisements will term it. It is time that this
humbug should cease, and the public in general should
know that they cannot, in reason, expect fruit from a
vine transplanted the same season, and that those who
pretend it can be done without vital injury to the plant,
are only seeking to fill their pockets at the cost of their
customers. They know well enough themselves, that it
cannot be done without fatally injuring the plant, but
they impose upon the credulity of their customers ; sell
them large vines at extravagant prices, which these good
souls will buy, and perhaps obtain a few sickly bunches
the first season, but if they do, the vines will make a
feeble growth, not ripen their wood, and be winter-killed
next season. Therefore, if you look around for plants do
not go to those who advertise ‘‘layers for immediate
bearing,” or ‘‘ better grown than any one’s else,” but send
to some honest, reliable nurseryman whom you can trust ;
one who is not afraid to let you see how he grows them,
and let him send you a sample of his plants. Choose
good, strong, healthy plants, one year old, plant care-
fully, and be content to wait two years for results ; but
then, if you have cultivated the vines carefully, you will
get acrop of grapes that is worth gathering. You can
not, in nature and reason, expect it sooner.
AND WINE MAKING. 83
If the ground has been prepared in the fall, so much
the better, and if it has been thrown into ridges, and is
dry enough, it may be planted in the fall. The advantages
of fall planting may be summed up as follows: The
Fig. 15.—YOUNG VINE READY TO PLANT.
ground is generally in better condition than in spring
and will work better, as we usually have better weather,
and more time to spare; the ground can settle among
the roots, which will be healed over and callused by
spring, when the plant is ready to start with full vigor.
Mark your ground, laying it off with a line, and put a
small stake where each plant is to be. A very conveni-
84 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ent plan is to tie a string, or piece of bark, into your line
at the proper distance for each plant, then you have an
even measure every time. Dig a hole, 8 or 10 inches
deep, as shown in figure 16, in a slanting direction, rais-
ing a small mound of well pulverized earth in the center;
then, having pruned your
lant, as in figure 15, with
SSS SSN P 2 4
| its tops and roots shorten-
aT . WR ed-in, as shown by the dot-
NZ : ted lines, lay it in, resting
= the lower end on the
=== mound of earth; spread
=== out its roots evenly to all
sides, and then fill in with
Fic. 16.—PLANTING THE vine, Well pulverized earth, leay-
ing the upper bud above
the ground. When planted in fall, raise a small mound
around each vine, so as to drain off the water, and threw
a handful of mulch on top of the vines, to protect them.
All the work should be done when the ground is in good
condition, and dry and mellow enough to be worked in
well among the roots.
CHAPTER XVII.
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FIRST SUMMER.
The first summer after planting, nothing is necessary
but to keep the ground loose and mellow and free from
weeds, stirring it freely with hoe, rake, and plow, when-
ever necessary, but never when the ground is wet.
Should the vines grow strong, they may be tied to the
small stakes, to elevate them somewhat above the ground.
Allow but one shoot to grow, rubbing off all others as.
AND WINE MAKING. 85d
they appear, but allow all the laterals to grow on this
shoct, as it will make it short-jointed and stocky.
In the fall, prune the young vine back to three buds, if
it has grown well; to one or two, if itis small. A fair
growth for the first season, is from 3 to 4 feet. During
the winter, trellises should be provided, as this is the
most convenient and the cheapest method of training ;
and we expect our vines to grow from 10 to 15 feet the
coming summer. Procure good posts, 7 feet long, and
3 to 4 inches in diameter, of Red Cedar where it can be
had, as this is the most dtrrable ; if that is not at hand,
use Osage Orange, Mulberry, Black Locust, or Post Oak.
Char the lower ends of the posts slightly, or dip them in
coal tar, as far as they go into the ground, to make them
more durable. Make holes with a post auger, placing
the first post in each row about 4 feet outside of the
last vine, and parallel with the row; set the second post
midway between the second and third vines, and so on,
so that two vines always occupy the space between two
posts. If preferred, every other post can be omitted this
summer, and the intermediate ones may be set the next
fall, as the trellis will be strong enough to bear the young
growth, and that is all it will have to do the next
summer. Make the holes 2 feet deep and set the posts
firmly, pounding down the ground around them witha
small wooden pestle or crowbar. Brace the end post
firmly, by driving in a short stake 4 feet from the last
post, fastening a wire to the top of the post and draw-
ing it down and around the stake, as shown in figure 17.
Procure No. 12 wire; bore holes with a half-inch auger
through the end post (which should always be rather
heavier and square), one near the top of the post, and
one or two others, as you wish to make the trellis of two
or three wires. If the trellis is to be of only two wires,
make the next hole 2 feet below the upper one; if three
wires are to be used, 20 inches below. The three-wire
86 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
trellis is somewhat more convenient in tying up the
young vines and lower canes, but is also costlier, while
the two-wire trellis is more economical, and when the
vines are once established in their proper shape, just
as good, while it is more convenient for cultivation be-
low, and allows freer circulation of air below the bearing
canes. Fasten your vine to the post at one end, drawing
it along the line, and pass it through the hole in the end
post. Have pieces of 1 inch boards, 1’/, inch broad, and
a foot long, with a hole bored through the center. Draw
your wire also through this, and then by turning the
board, you can, in wrapping the wire around it, tighten
that at your pleasure, and loosen it also, which should
always be done in the fall, as the cold contracts the wire,
and the strain would be too great. Now you can fasten
the wire to the intermediate posts by small staples, which |
are manufactured for this purpose, and can be had in any
hardware store. If your vineyard slopes to the south,
and the rows run parallel with the hillside, fasten on the
south side; if to the east, fasten to the east. Laths will,
of course, do instead of wires, but the posts must then be
set much closer; laths always need repairmg; the wires
are much more convenient to tie to, and in the end
much cheaper. Many train to stakes. Where timber is
plenty, stakes may be cheaper, yet it is much more
labor to tie to them, and the vines are always in disorder,
while they will cling to the wires with their tendrils, thus
doing most of the tying themselves, and the bearing canes
can be distributed much more evenly, producing more
and better ripened fruit. I am satisfied that the addi-
tional cost of trellis will be more than paid by the larger
and better crop the first bearing season. Fill all va-
cancies, if any occur, with extra strong vines in the fall.
AND WINE MAKING. 87
CHAPTER XVIII.
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE SECOND SUMMER.
We find the young vine at the commencement of the
second summer pruned to three buds. From these we
may expect two or three strong shoots to ripen into bear-
ing canes for the next year. The first work will be to
cultivate the whole ground. ‘This can be done by a com-
mon turning plow, first throwing away a furrow at each
side of the row, as in the first cultivation of corn, taking
care not to go too deep, so as to injure the vine or its
roots. ‘Then hoe the space under and around the vines,
either with the two-pronged German hoe, or the Hexa-
mer hoe, stirring and inverting the soil to the depth of
about 3 inches. Then take the plow again and throw
the soil back to the vines, using care, however, not
to cover them ; stir the whole to a uniform depth, and
leaving a shallow furrow in the middle. The ground
should be dry enough to work well, and not clog; rather
wait a few days than to stir the soil in wet weather. Of
the three shoots which may grow, leave two to grow un-
checked ; the weakest is to be pinched as soon as about
five or six leaves are developed, taking off the top of the
young shoot with your thumb and finger. The other
two, if Catawba or Delaware, you can let grow unchecked,
but all the strong growing kinds, as Concord, Martha,
Goethe, etc., and all the estivalis and cordifolia class,
should also be pinched when the shoots have attained a_
length of 3 feet, or just above the second wire from
above ; this will force the laterals into a stronger growth,
so that each will attain the size of a medium cane. On
these we intend to have our fruit the coming season, as
the shoots from buds on these laterals will produce more
and finer fruit than those on the main canes, if left un-
88 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
checked ; and they can also be kept under control much
better. Figure 17 will show the result of training the
second summer, with the method of bracing the trellis.
ss =
Fig. 17.—THE VINE AT THE END OF THE SECOND SEASON.
Figure 18 gives the vine, pruned and tied, at the end
of the second season. Figure 19 represents the manner |
of training and tying the Catawba and Delaware, or other
slow growing kinds. 3
The above method of training is a combination of the
single-cane and fan-training system, which I tried first
on the Concord from sheer necessity, when the results
pleased me so much, that I have since adopted it with all
Fig. 18.—THE VINE PRUNED AND TIED.
the strong growing varieties. The circumstances which
led me to the trial of this method, were as follows: In
the summer of 1862, when my young Concord vines were ©
AND WINE MAKING. 89
making their second season’s growth, we had, in the bo-
ginning of June, the most destructive hailstorm I have
ever seen here. ‘The vines were not only stripped of all
their leaves, but the young succulent shoots were also cut
down to about 3 feet from the ground. The vines, being
young and vigorous, pushed out strong laterals, each of
them about the size of a fair, medium cane. In the fall,
when I came to prune them, the main cane was not long
enough, and I shortened in the laterals to from four to
six buds each. On these I had as fine a crop of grapes as
I ever saw, with large, well developed bunches and berries,
—$—! ———_ —
Fig. 19.—71RAINING
SLOW GROWING VARIETIES.
and a great many of them, as each bud had produced its
fruit-bearing shoot. Since that time I have followed this
method altogether and have obtained the most satisfac-
tory results.
The ground should be kept loose and mellow during
the summer, cultivating as often as may become necessary
during dry weather, and the vines are to be tied neatly
to the trellis with bark or straw.
There are many other methods of training, as the old
bow and stake training, so much in vogue formerly. But
it crowds the whole mass of fruit and leaves so closely, that
mildew and rot will follow as a natural consequence ; it
Should have been given up long ago. But we have aclass
of grape growers who never learn or forget anything.
90 : AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
These will hardly prosper. The grape-grower, of all
others, should be a close observer of nature, a thinking —
and reasoning being. He ought to experiment and try new ~
methods all the time, and should he find a better, be will-
ing to throw aside his old method, and adopt one more
suited to the wants of his vines. Only in this manner
* can he expect to attain success. :
There is also the arm system, of which we hear so |
much, and which certainly looks very pretty on paper. —
But paper is patient, and the advantages of the sys-
tem cannot be denied, if every shoot and spur could be —
made to grow just as in drawings, with three fine bunches —
to each shoot. Upon applying it, however, we find —
that vines are stubborn, some shoots will outgrow others, —
and before we hardly know how, the whole beautiful —
system is out of order. It may do to follow with a
few vines in gardens, or on arbors, but I do not think ©
that it will ever be successfully adopted for vineyard cul- —
ture, as it involves too much labor in tying, pruning, ete. —
I think the method already described will more fully
meet the wants of the vine grower than any I have yet
seen ; if is so simple that an intelligent person can soon |
become familiar with it, and gives us new, healthy bear-—
ing-wood every season.
Pruning may be done in the fall, as soon as the leaves —
have dropped, and continued, on mild days, during ~
the winter months. |
AND WINE MAKING. 91
CHAPTER XIX.
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE THIRD SUMMER.
_ At the beginning of the third season we find our vine
pruned to three spurs, of two buds each, and six short
lateral arms of four to six buds each. These are tied
firmly to the trellis, as shown in figure 18, for which pur-
pose small twigs of the Golden Willow, of which every
grape-grower should plant a supply, are the most con-
venient. In their absence, twigs of some of the wild
willows, or good strong twine, may be substituted, though
not near so convenient. ‘The ground should be plowed
and hoed as before, taking care, however, not to plow
so deeply as to cut or tear the roots of the vines.
The vines being plowed and hoed, and, as we hope,
pushing young shoots vigorously, we come to one of the
most important and ‘delicate operations to be performed
on the vine, one of as great, or even greater, importance
than pruning. This is summer-pruning, or pinching,
7. €., thumb and finger pruning. Fall pruning, or cutting
back, is but the first step in the discipline to which the
vine is to be subjected ; summer pruning is the second ;
and one is useless and cannot be systematically followed
without the other. Look at the vine well before you
commence, and begin near the ground.
The time to commence is when the young shoots
are 6 to 8 inches long, and as soon as you can see all the
young bunches or buds, the embryo fruit. We com-
mence on the lower spur, having two shoots; rubbing
off, at the same time, all suckers or wild shoots that may
have started from the crown of the vine below. From
the two buds two shoots have started. One of them
may serve as a bearing cane or reserve next summer, we,
therefore, leave it unchecked for the present. The other,
92 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
which is intended for a spur again next fall, we pinch
with thumb and finger, just beyond the last bunch or
button, taking out the leader between the last bunch and
the next leaf, as shown in figure 20, the cross line indicat-
ing where the leader is to be pinched. We now rub off
all the shoots between the lower spur and the next lateral
cane, should any appear, as they generally produce im-
perfect fruit and are quite too near the ground. Next
take the spur on the cane, treating it precisely like the
lower one, leaving the strongest shoot unchecked for a
bearing cane next year, and pinching the other. Now go
over all the shoots on the lateral
canes, shortening each one to just
above the last promising looking
bunch. If a bud has started
two, or even three shoots, rub off
the weaker, leaving but one and
the strongest, and if any bud has —
Qi not started vigorously, rub it off
<=> altogether. Go over the other
cane in the same manner, and if
you think there are still too many
bunches, take away the smallest.
A vine in its third season, how- —
ever strong it may be, should not —
be allowed to bear over 15 lbs. of grapes, and if allowed
thirty to forty bunches it will have that quantity, pro-
vided it is not a variety which bears but small bunches.
~ Now is the time to thin the fruit, before it has abstracted
any strength from the vine. If any shoots are not suf-
ficiently developed to show their condition, we pass them —
by, and go over the vine again after a few days.
This early pinching of the young shoots has the ten-
dency to throw all the ‘vigor into the development of the ~
young bunches and the leaves remaining on the shoot, —
which now develop with astonishing rapidity. It is a _
Fig. 20.—PINCHING.
AND WINE MAKING. 93
gentle checking, and leading the sap into other channels,
not the violent process which is often followed long after
the bloom, when the shoots have so hardened that tho
knife must be used, and by which the plant is robbed
of a large part of its leaves, to the injury of both fruit
and vine. Let any one who wishes to satisfy himself,
summer-prune a vine according to this method, and leave
the next vine until after the bloom; he will soon be con-
vinced whichis best. Since I first practised this method,
now about twenty years, it has added at least one-third
to the quantity and quality of my crop, and it 1s now fol-
lowed by most of the intelligent growers of my State.
It also gives an early opportunity to destroy the small
worms, a species of leaf-folder, which are very trouble-
some about this time, eating the young bunches and
leaves, and which generally
make their web among the
tender leaves at the end of the
shoot. The bearing shoots all
being pinched back, we can
leave the vines alone until after
the bloom, only tymg up the
young canes from the spurs,
should this become necessary. +/
Do not tie them over and
among the bearing canes, but
dead them to the empty spaces
in the middle, as our ob- ;
ject must be to give the fruit ‘Fig. 21.—prncuine THE
all the air and light we can. aaa
_ When they have bloomed, the laterals will have start-
ed from the axils of the leaves on the bearing shoots.
Go over again, and pinch these back to one leaf, as shown
in figure 21, the cross lines showi¥g where the laterals are
to be pinched. This will have the tendency to develop
the remaining leaf very rapidly, enabling it to serve as a
94 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
conductor and elaborator of sap to the young bunch op-—
posite, and shading that when it becomes fully devel-
oped. The canes from the spurs, which we left un-—
checked at first pinching, and which we design to bear |
fruit the next season, may now also be stopped or pinched }
when they are about 3 feet long, to start their laterals
into stronger growth. Pinch off all the tendrils unless —
where they serve as supports to the young growth. ‘This —
is a very busy time for the vine dresser, and upon his
close attention and diligence now, depends, in a great
measure, the value of his crop. A vast deal of labor can
be saved by doing everything at its proper time.
This is about all that is necessary for this summer, ex-
cept tying the young growth along the top wires, and
an occasional tying of a fruit-bearing branch, if it should
become too heavy. ‘The majority of the branches will,
however, be able to bear their fruit without tying, and
the young growth which may yet be made from the
laterals may be left unchecked, as it will serve to shade —
the fruit when ripening. ‘This short and early pinching
is also a partial preventive of mildew and rot, as it ad-
mits light and air to all parts of the vine. But I cannot
caution too strongly against late cutting back, one of the
first causes of disease, and ruinous to the vine, as the de-
foliation of the vine in August disturbs and violates all
its functions, and enfeebles it.
The reader will perceive that fall pruning, or shorten-
ing-in the ripe wood of the vine, and summer-pruning, —
shortening-in and thinning the young growth, have one
and the same object in view, namely, to keep the vine with-
in proper bounds, and to concentrate all its energies for a
two-fold object, the production and ripening of the most
perfect fruit, and the production of strong and healthy
wood for next season’s crop. Both operations are only dif-
ferent parts of the same system, of which summer-pruning
is the preparatory, and fall-pruning the finishing part.
AND WINE MAKING. 95
If we think that a vine sets more fruit than it is able
to bear and ripen perfectly, we have it in our power to
thin it, by taking away all imperfect bunches and feeble
shoots. We should allow no-more canes to grow for next
season’s bearing than we need, if we allow three canes to
grow where only two are needed, we waste the energies
of the vine, which should all be concentrated upon ripen-
ing its fruit in the most perfect manner, and producing
enough wood for next season’s bearing, and of the best
and most vigorous kind, but no more. If we prune the
vine too long, we overtax its energies, making it bear
more fruit than it can well mature, and the result will be
poor, badly-ripened fruit, and imperfect wood. If we
prune the vine too short, we will have a rank, excessive
growth of wood and leaves, and encourage rot and mil-
dew. Only practice and experience will teach the true
medium, and the observing and thinking vine-dresser
will soon learn where the true medium is, better than
he can be taught by volumes of advice. Different va-
rieties will, of course, require different treatment, and
it would be folly to prune them all alike. <A compact,
slow grower, like the Delaware, will require different
treatment from arank grower like Concord, and much
shorter pruning. The Delaware and Catawba fruit
well upon single canes, while the Concord, Martha, and
others, fruit better on spurs upon laterals, while most of
the estivalis and cordifolia classes, especially the Norton’s,
Cynthiana, and Taylor, will fruit better if pruned to
spurs of two or three buds, on the old arms, than on
young canes. With these latter, the old arms should,
therefore, be retaied as long as they are sound and
vigorous, pruning all the healthy, good sized shoots to two
or three buds ; always, however, growing a young cane
to fail back upon, should the old one become diseased.
It is because so few of our common laborers will take the
pains to study the habits and nature of their vines, and
96 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
do a little thinking for themselves, that we find among
them but very few good vine dressers.
It is hardly necessary to state that the ground should —
be kept mellow and clean through the summer, and
especially during the ripening of the fruit, but never
touch it in wet weather.
At the end of this season, we find our vines, 1f Concords
or similar varieties, with the old fruit-bearing canes, and
a spur on each side, from each of which we have a cane,
as the smaller one was stopped, like all other fruit-bear-
ing branches, and which we now prune to a spur of two
buds. The other, the young cane, which was stopped at
about 3 feet, on which the laterals were left to grow un-
checked, we prune as last season, each lateral being cut
back to four to six buds, and the old canes which had borne
fruit, are cut away altogether. With Norton’s, Cynthi- —
ana, ‘Taylor, etc., the old arms are left, and the well de-
veloped shoots are cut back to two buds each, as before |
mentioned, while the small, weak ones are cut away
altogether. This leaves us with an arm on each side, to
be tied the next spring, as shown in figure 18, and
ends our operations for the season. Of the gathering of
the fruit, as well for market as for wine, I shall speak in
another place.
CHAPTER XxX.
TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FOURTH SUMMER.
We now consider the vine as established, able to bear a
full crop. The operations to be performed are precisely
the same as in its third year, only modifying the prun-
ing, fruiting, etc., according to the strength of the vine,
pruning shorter if the vine shows a decrease in vigor,
longer, 1f it grows too rank.
AND WINE MAKING. 97
Should the vines show a decrease in vigor, so as to in-
dicate the need of stimulants, they may be manured with
ashes, bone dust, compost, or still better, with surface
soil from the woods or prairies. ‘This will serve to re-
plenish the soil which may have been washed off, and is
much more beneficial than stable manure. When the
latter is employed, a small trench may be dug in the
middle of the row just above the vine, the manure laid
in, and covered with soil. But an abundance of fresh
soil, drawn around the vine, is the best of all manures.
Should your vineyard have vacancies, they had best ve
filled with layers from neighboring vines, made as follows:
Dig a trench from the vine from which the layer is to be
made, to the empty place, about 8 or 10 inches deep ;
bend into this trench one of the canes of the vine which
has been left to grow unchecked for the purpose, and
pruned to the proper length. Let the end of this layer-
cane come out at the surface, where the new vine is want-
ed, and fill up the trench with well pulverized earth. It
will take root at every joint, and grow rapidly, but as it
draws a great deal of nourishment from the parent vine,
that must be pruned much shorter. When the layer is
well established, it is cut from the parent vine, either the
second or third season. Such layers will fill up much
better than if the vacancies are supplied by planting
young vines, as the latter do not grow very vigorous-
ly, if set among the others, after the second season.
Pruning is best done in fall, but can be done any time
during mild weather in winter, and here even as late as
the middle of March. Fall pruning will prevent flow of .
sap, and the cuttings, if to be used for future plantations,
or sold, are also better if made in the fall, and buried in
‘the ground over winter, with their upper ends downwards.
All the sound, well-ripened wood of last season’s growth
_may be made into cuttings, and if they can be sold,
will largely add to the product of the vineyard.
5
98 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XXI.
TRAINING THE VINE ON ARBORS AND WALLS.
This has a different purpose from culture in vineyards,
and, therefore, the vines require different treatment.
Vineyard culture has for its object the most perfect
fruit, and bringing the vine, with all its parts, within
easy reach of the cultivator. Arbor culture has for its
object the covering of a large space with foliage, for or-
nament and shade ; fruit being but a secondary considera-
tion, though a large quantity of fruit of fair quality can
also be produced, if the vines are judiciously treated.
The first aim should be to grow very strong plants, so
as to cover a large space. Prepare the border by digging a
trench 2 feet deep and 4 feet wide, and fill with rich soil,
rotten leaves, bones, ashes, etc. Set your plants in this,
in the manner already shown in vineyard planting.
Leave but one shoot to grow on them during the first
summer, which ought to become very strong. Cut this
cane back to three buds the next fall. Each of these ~
buds will produce a strong shoot the next spring, which —
should be tied to the arbor and allowed to grow un-
checked. In the following fall, cut each of these three
canes back to three buds, as our first aim must be to get
a good basis for our vines. ‘These will give nine canes
the next summer, and as the vine is now strong enough,
we can begin to demand a crop from it. We have now
three different sections or branches to the vine, each one —
of which bears three canes. Cut one of these three canes —
back to two eyes, and prune the other two canes to from
six to ten buds each, according to the strength of the —
vine. ‘Treat each of the three sections in the same man-
ner. Next spring tie these neatly to the trellis, divid-
AND WINE MAKING. 99
ing them equally, and when the young shoots appear,
thin out the weakest, leaving the others to grow un-
checked. Next fall cut back the weakest of the canes
to two buds each, the stronger ones to three or four buds,
,the spurs at bottom to come in asa reserve, should any of
the main arms become diseased.
Others prefer the Thomery or horizontal arm training,
but I think it much more complicated and difficult.
Those who wish to inform themselves about it, I refer to
the books of Fuller and Mead, which are very explicit on
the subject.
CHAPTBR XX:
OTHER METHODS OF TRAINING.
These are almost without number; one of the most
common is to place three stakes around the vine, about a
foot from it, and to wind the canes or arms around them
spirally, until they reach the top. They are then
‘“spurred in” every season, and no young canes grown,
except to replace a decaying arm. This mode is much
more inconvenient than a trellis, and it crowds fruit
and foliage too much, inducing mildew. Another, much
In vogue in Hurope, and also in California, is the so-
called bush or stool method of training. The vine is
made to form its crown, 7. ¢., the part from which the
branches start, from 12 to 18 inches above the ground
and all the young shoots are allowed to grow, but sum-
mer pruned or checked above the last bunch of grapes.
The next spring or fall all of the young shoots are
“spurred-in ” to two buds; this system of spurring-in is
kept up, and the vine will at last present the appearance
of a bush or miniature tree, producing all its fruit within
100 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
a foot from the crown, and without further support than
its own stem. Very old vines, sometimes, have from a
dozen to twenty spurs, and present, with their fruit
hanging all around their trunks, a pleasing, but odd
aspect. This method could not be applied here with any
chance of success to any other than very slow and stocky
growers. The Delaware, the Alvey, and also the Kumelan,
would be the most suitable, as they are very close-jointed,
stocky, and hardy. It would be useless to try it with
strong growers.
Another method of dwarfing the vine is practised to
form a pretty border along walks in gardens or along ter-
races, and is as follows: Plant the vines about 8° feet
apart, treat them the first season as in common vineyard
culture, but cut back to two buds. Provide posts 3 to
3'/, feet long, and pointed at one end ; drive these into the
ground for 18 inches, and nail a lath on the top. This
is the trellis, and should be about 18 inches above the .
ground, or 2 feet, if you prefer. Allow both of the
shoots from the vine to grow unchecked, and when they
have reached the trellis, tie one to the right, the other to
the left, allowing them to grow at will along the lath.
The next fall, cut back to the proper length to meet the
other vine, and in spring, tie firmly to the lath. When
the young shoots appear, all are rubbed off below the trel-
lis, but all those above the trellis are pinched, as in vine-
yard culture, beyond the last bunch of grapes. The
trellis, with its garland of fruit, will look very pretty.
In the fall, all the shoots are ‘‘ spurred-in” to one or
two buds, one being allowed to grow from each spur, to
produce fruit the next summer; the same treatment is
repeated every year.
During a trip among the vineyards of Western New
York, on the shores of Lake Erie and Keuka, or Crooked
Lake, I observed a method of training which seems to pro-
duce good results there, but which I think would not
AND WINE MAKING. 101
prove successful here, as our hot sun would scald the
leaves, and the grapes being so near the ground would
be more hable to rot. I can but think that even in
these localities the method described by me, would be
better, and save a good deal of labor.
Their method is as follows: They grow two canes on
each vine, which are tied horizontally to the lower wire,
one to the left, the other to the right, and also a spur on
each arm to produce a new cane for next year. The
shoots, which grow from the eyes on the two horizontal
canes, are left to grow unchecked, and when they have
become long enough to reach the second wire, are tied to
it, and from there to the upper wire, thus bearing the fruit
all between the lower and second wires. The next fall the
cane, which has borne the fruit the last summer, is cut off
close to the spur, and the new cane grown from it takes
the place of it the next summer. It is a very simple way
of renewal training, but were we to do it here, the leaves
which are on the main shoots would drop off, leaving the
fruit exposed ; while with the system of summer-pruning
I follow, the young and vigorous leaves on the pinched
laterals shade the fruit perfectly, and remain fresh and
green. Besides, it takes an immense amount of tying and
tying material, and we can pinch four shoots in a shorter
time than we can tie one. As our pinched shoots be-
come very stocky, they will bear the weight of all the
fruit without tying, and the slanting direction in which
we tie will distribute the fruit more evenly. I believe,
therefore, that our New York growers would do well to
give this method a trial, and compare results.
I also saw the horizontal arm training in great perfec-
tion at Mr. H. E. Hooker’s, at Rochester, and confess that
his arms of the Brighton, with their handsome clusters,
looked very handsome. He thinks he could carry an
arm to the distance of 50 feet in the same way. His
treatment consists simply in ‘‘spurring-in” the young
102 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
shoots on his canes along the first wire to one to two
eyes, growing his fruit on these, and leaving the old arm,
pruning back the young shoots to spurs every year, leay-
ing the bearing shoots unchecked, and tying them to the
wires above. While it succeeds there, I have my doubts
as to its applicability with us, for the reasons already
given, nor do I believe that he can grow any better fruit .
even there, than could be obtained by our simpler method.
CBA PER, Se ee:
DISEASES OF THE VINE.
I cannot agree with those writers who assert that the
diseases of the vine are not threatening in this country.
They are so formidable that whole districts where grape
growing was formerly followed, have given up the cul-
ture of the vine almost entirely, and it seems as if all
varieties of the Labrusca become, more or less, a prey to
them. This may, to a certain extent, be attributed to
the Phylloxera, or Root Louse, which so enfeebles the
plant, that it can not withstand the changes of our vari-
able climate. But even the Concord, which is almost
Phylloxera proof, has rotted worse than any other during
the last few years, although formerly considered one of
the most reliable. I think one of the reasons why the
Labrusca class is so subject to disease, is the tendency of
the vines to root near the surface, as they are thus more
liable to be affected by excessive wet, or the reverse ex-
treme, drouth. It is, therefore, fortunate indeed, that
we have some varieties which do not rot, at least to such
an extent as to affect their crop. Almost all of the older
AND WINE MAKING. 103
varieties of these belong to the estivalis class, and among
them, the Norton’s Virginia and Cynthiana stand pre-
eminent. During the forty years that the Norton’s has
been known, the rot has never materially affected the
crop, and the Cynthiana rivals it in that respect, being
equally healthy, while its wine, in quality, excels that of
the Norton. The cordifolia class also bids fair to furnish
us varieties of the ‘‘ iron clad ” type, in the Elvira, Trans-
parent, Pearl, Uhland, etc. Both of these classes root
deeply, and in this, I believe, is to be found the reason for
their greater health. Both are true wine grapes, with no
toughness of pulp, the Norton’s and Cynthiana furnish-
ing us the types for red wine, the others, the delicate and
smooth white wines. On these I make bold to say, the
future of-our country as a ‘‘ Wineland” depends ; not on
the windy appliances of sulphur, and other remedies
against rot and mildew, and my adyice to the beginner is:
do not plant largely of any variety subject to disease, but
plant those which will not need these remedies. I have
no doubt that there are varieties adapted to every section
of the country which are free from disease, and it will
certainly pay the planter to seek them out.
Mildew is our most formidable disease, and very often
sweeps away two-thirds of a crop of Catawbas in a few
days. It does not seem to affect the Concord and Mar-
tha. Generally mildew appears here from June Ist to
June 15th, after abundant rains, and damp weather. It
is a parasitic fungus, and sulphur applied by means of a
bellows, or dusted over the fruit and vine, is a partial
remedy. Close and early summer-pruning will do much
to prevent it, throwing, as it does, all the strength of the
vine into the young fruit, developing it rapidly, and also
giving free access of air. In some varieties, Delaware
for instance, it will only affect the leaves, causing them
to drop off, after which the fruit, though it may attain
full size, will not ripen or become sweet, but shrinks and
104. ‘AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
drops. In seasons when the weather is dry, and the air
pure, mildew will not appear. It is most prevalent in
locations with a tenacious subsoil and where malaria
abounds, being less frequent in soils with good drainage
_and in high, exposed situations. Under-draining is also
a partial preventive, as excess of moisture about the roots
and in the air is, no doubt, its principal cause.
The Gray Rot, or ‘‘ Grape Cholera” (so-called), gen-
erally follows the mildew, and I think the latter its prin-
cipal cause, as it is generally found on berries of which
the stems have already been affected by mildew. ‘The
berry first shows gray streaks and marblings; in a few
days it turns to a grayish-blue color, withers, and drops
from the bunch. It will continue to affect berries until
they begin to ripen and color, but is confined to a few
varieties only, the Catawba, Diana, and a few others.
The Spotted, or Brown Rot, has been most destructive
of late among the Concord, Martha, Rogers’ Hybrids; in
short, nearly all of the Labrusces, with the exception of
the Ives, Perkins, and a few others, too poor in quality
to be very desirable. It appears like a small puncture
on the berry, which will take on a liver-colored hue and
spread very rapidly. In 1878 it destroyed almost the
whole Concord crop along the lower Missouri and Missis-
sippi. Longer fall pruning and heavier bearing of the
vine will prevent it to some extent, also close and early
summer-pruning, as it is worse on vines with a rank
growth, and on poorly drained soil. ‘Training on the
trellis higher than is generally followed (which is a
natural consequence of longer pruning), will also be
found a partial preventive, in short, anything which will
give a freer circulation of air and more exposure to the
light will be of aid.
There is another form of rot, appearing mostly on
the Herbemont, Lenoir, Hermann, and sometimes on the
Taylor, which generally comes after frequent showers,
AND WINE MAKING. 105
close, sultry air, and hot glimpses of sunshine between
showers. It at first appears as a grayish spot on the
foliage, which shrivels as if burnt, an.. the berries dry
up as if scalded by hot water. It comes in spots ; some-
times all the fruit on one arm will be destroyed, while
that on the other arm on the same vine is healthy, and
all of it will ripen.
The best method of avoiding all these diseases is to
plant varieties not subject to them, and with the mani-
fold kinds we now have, some can surely be found that
will remain healthy in every locality at all adapted to
grape growing. That we have varieties exempt from dis-
ease, the experience with the Norton’s Virginia, wherever
cultivated, has fully demonstrated. No sensible man,
however, will suppose that one variety should be suited
to all locations over this wide country. It behooves us
then, each to experiment, and ascertain which are suited
to his particular locality, and for these experiments to
choose such as are considered most healthy elsewhere,
and especially in locations similar to his, in climate and
soil.
CHAPTER XXIV.
INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE GRAPE.
As the most destructive of all, because it works chiefly
under ground, and the mischief it does will only be per-
ceived in its effects, I may consider the Phylloxera vasta-
triz, or Grape-vine Root-louse. Concerning the exist-
ence of this pest, we have for a long time been ignorant,
until the efforts of our State Entomologist, Prof. C. V.
Riley, and of other Entomologists, especially Prof.
Planchon, of France, have enlightened us upon the
subject, and made us aware of the danger threatening
106 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
our vineyards, but especially those of Kurope and Cali-
fornia, where the vinifera class had so far been cultivated
almost exclusively. It threatens now to sweep out of
existence that whole class, and it is a very noteworthy
fact, that from this country from which the fell destroyer
was imported into Europe, should also come the only
effective remedy so far found, namely, the introduction
of Phylloxera proof varieties of vines, which are found
chiefly in the estivalis and cordifolia (or riparia)
classes. All other remedies, except inundation, seem to
have failed, and Prof. Planchon, in a letter to me, ex-
presses his firm belief, that the only hope of saving that
great source of wealth to the French nation, their vine-
yards, isin the introduction and general cultivation of
our Phylloxera proof varieties of the grape, first as a stock
to graft the vinifera upon, and secondly to cultivate our
grapes for their fruit, if they can find varieties which
will make such wines as the popular taste there demands.
With this object in view millions upon millions of
American cuttings and plants have already been imported
into France, and the demand is still as active as ever.
But the Clinton and Concord, which were first imported
for that purpose, have not proved satisfactory. The first
succeeds well enough, but is too rambling a grower, and
not even a good stock, on account of its tendency to
sucker, and the quality of its wine is not good enough
to suit the palate of the French connoisseurs. The Con-
cord seems to fail even as a stock, as its roots are too
near the surface, and it ripens its fruit and wood too
early. The hot summers there appear to affect it, and it
turns yellow prematurely. The Lenoir, or Jacques as
they call it there, for a time promised to be all they wanted,
as it was vigorous and made an exquisite red wine. But
last summer the dry-rot appeared upon it also, the Cun~
ningham and Herbemont have been imported largely, but
they fear that they will not be quite hardy enough for
AND WINE MAKING. | 107
Northern France. The Norton’s, Cynthiana, and Her-
mann seem not to be quite satisfactory in their growth,
though their wines are all they desire. However, if they
have been mostly grafted upon vinifera stocks, this is not
surprising, for when the root is destroyed or weakened,
the graft can not flourish, and it is rather difficult to
establish a vineyard of them even here; but when once
established, it will last. ‘Their attention is now drawn
towards the Taylor, as a very easy vine to propagate, and
an excellent stock to graft upon, and if we once have
varieties which have the Phylloxera proof roots of the
Taylor, and which besides are abundant bearers, as we
now seem to have in the Elvira and her sisters, we have
found what is desired, and the supposition is but natural
that they will become in time the wine grapes of the
whole civilized world. It is indeed wonderful that,
when this insect threatens to destroy the grape vines of
the Old World, its remedy should be found here in our
Missouri vineyards, and it may truly be called providen-
tial. It would require too much space to give the full
natural history of the insect, and I refer those who wish
to study it to the valuable Report* of Prof. Riley, of
which I copy the most important part :
How THE PHYLLOXERA AFFECTS THE VINE.— Prof.
Riley says: ‘‘ The result which follows the puncture of
the Root-Louse is an abnormal swelling, differing in form
according to the particular part and texture of the root.
These swellings, which are generally commenced at the
tips of the rootlets, eventually rot, and the lice forsake
them and betake themselves to fresh ones. The decay
affects the parts adjacent to the swellings, and on the
more fibrous roots cuts off the supply of sap to all parts
beyond. As these last decompose, the lice congregate
* Sixth Annual Report on the Noxious, Beneficial, and other Insects
of the State of Missonri, by C. V. Riley, State Entomologist. St. Louis,
Mo., 1874.
108 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
on the larger ones, until at last the root system literally
Wastes away.
‘During the first year of attack, there are scarcely any
outward manifestations of disease, though the fibrous
roots, if examined, will be found covered with nodosities,
particularly in the latter part of the growing season.
The disease is then in its incipient stage. ‘The second
year all these fibrous roots vanish, and the lice not only
prevent the formation of new ones, but, as just stated,
settle on the larger roots, which they mjure by causing
hypertrophy of the parts punctured, which also eventu-—
ally become disorganized and rot. At this stage the out-
ward symptoms of the disease first become manifest, in a
sickly, yellowish appearance of the leaf and a reduced
growth of cane. As the roots continue to decay, these
symptoms become more acute, until by about the third
year the vine dies. When the vine is about dying it is
generally impossible to discover the cause of the death,
the lice, which had been so numerous the first and second
years of invasion, having left for fresh pasturage.”
‘* The life-history of the Grape Phylloxera may be thus
epitomized : It hibernates mostly as a young larva, tor-
pidly attached to the roots of the vine, and so deepened
in color as generally to be of a dull brassy-brown, and,
therefore, with difficulty perceived, as the roots are often
of the same color. With the renewal of vine growth in
the spring, this larva moults, rapidly increases in size, and
soon commences laying eggs. These eggs, in due time,
give birth to young, which soon become virginal, egg-
laying mothers, like the first ; and, like them, always re-
main wingless. Jive or six generations of these partheno-
genetic, egg-bearing, apterous mothers follow each other ;
when—about the middle of July, in this latitude—some
of the individuals begin to acquire wings. These are all
females, and like the wingless mothers, they are partheno-
genetic. Having issued from the ground, while in the
AND WINE MAKING. 109
pupa state, they rise in the air and spread to new vine-
yards, where they deliver themselves of their issue in the
form of eggs or egg-like bodies—usually two or three in
number, and not exceeding eight—and then perish.
These eggs are of two sizes, the larger about 0.02 inch
long, and the smaller about three-fifths of that length.
In the course of a fortnight they produce the sexual indi-
vidual, the larger ones giving birth to females, the smaller
to males. These sexual individuals are born for no other
purpose than the reproduction of their kind, and are
without means of flight, or of taking food, or excreting.
They are quite active and couple readily; one male be-
ing capable, no doubt, of serving several females, as Bal-
biani found to be the case with the European quercus.
‘The abdomen of the female, after impregnation, en-
larges somewhat, and she is soon delivered of a solitary
ego, which differs from the ordinary eggs of the parthe-
nogenetic mother only in becoming somewhat darker.
This impregnated egg gives birth to a young louse, which
becomes a virginal, egg-bearing, wingless mother, and
thus recommences the cycle of the species’ evolution.
But one of the most important discoveries of Balbiani is
that, during the latter part of the season, many of the
wingless, hypogean mothers perform the very same func-
tion as the winged one; 7. ¢., they lay a few eggs which
are of two sizes, and which produce males and females,
organized and constructed precisely as those born of the
winged females, and, like them, producing the solitary
impregnated ege. Thus, the interesting fact is estab-
lished that even the winged form, is by no means essen-
tial to the perpetuation of the species; but that, if all
such winged individuals were destroyed as fast as they
issue from the ground, the species could still go on mul-
tiplying in a vineyard from year to year. We have,
therefore, the spectacle of an underground insect posses-
sing the power of continued existence, even when confined
110 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
to its subterranean retreats. It spreads in the wingless
state from vine to vine, and from vineyard to vineyard,
when these are adjacent, either through passages in the
ground itself, or over the surface. At the same time it
is able, in the winged condition, to migrate to much
‘more distant points. The winged females, as before
stated, begin to appear in July, and continue to issue
from the ground until vine growth ceases in the fall.
Yet they are much more abundant in August than during
any other month, and on certain days may be said to lit-
erally swarm. Every piece of root a few inches long, and
haying rootlets, taken from an infested vine at this sea-
son, will present a goodly proportion of pupx ; and an
ordinary quart preserve jar, filled with such roots and
tightly closed, will furnish daily, for two or three weeks,
a dozen or more of the winged females, which gather on
the sides of the jar toward the light. We may get some
idea, from this fact, of the immense numbers that dis-
perse through the air to new fields, from a single acre of
infected vines, in the course of the late summer and fall
months. | .
<“Tf to the above account we add that occasionally
individuals abandon their normal underground habit, and
form galls upon the leaves of certain varieties of grape-
vine, we have, in a general way, the whole natural his-
tory of the species.”
He takes the ground that it is the cause of most of the
diseases in the Labrusca class, and especially in the
Catawba, as a vine with a diseased root can not produce
healthy fruit, and these conclusions are certainly logical.
He advises grafting on Phylloxera proof roots as a reme-
dy, and to those wishing to save such varieties as the
Catawba and Delaware, this is certainly the best course.
But I think that they are already superseded by grapes
of better quality, and my advice is to plant none but
Phylloxera proof varieties. So far as I know, the follow-
— ee —_—,
a —_——- ~~
AND WINE MAKING. TiI
ing varieties are especially subject to its ravages : Cataw-
ba, Delaware, Hartford, most of Rogers’ Hybrids, Iona,
Isabella, Creveling, Diana, Maxatawney, Cassady, Rebec-
ca, Croton. The following are not quite exempt, but are
so vigorous that they seem but little injured: Concord,
Martha, Goethe, Wilder, Ives, Perkins, Telegraph, Mary
Ann. ‘The whole estivalis and cordifolia group appear
to be free from its ravages. It is strange, however, that
the gall-producing type of the insect will prefer the leaves
of the Taylor and Clinton, while the type which works
at the root does not affect them.
The other insect enemies, although very numerous, are
not so devastating as the Phylloxera.
The common Gray Cut-worm will often eat the tender
shoots of the young plantations, and draw them into the
ground below. It can be readily detected, so soon as its
ravages are seen, by stirring the ground about the vine,
when it will be found under some of the loose clods,
and easily killed.
The small worms, beionging to the leaf-folding class,
some of them white, some bluish-green, have already
been mentioned under ‘‘Summer-pruning.” They
should be destroyed at that time; closely watch them
when they make their wevs among the young shoots, as
they will become very destructive if not checked in time.
Another leaf-folder comes about mid-summer, making
_ its web on the leaf, drawing it together, and then devour-
ing its own house. It is a small, whitish-gray, active
worm, which will drop to the ground as soon as disturbed.
I know of no other way but to catch and destroy it.
Several beetles will feed on the young buds before they
expand, one about the size and color of a hemp seed ; an-
other is of a steel-blue color; both are very active. They
can be caught in early morning, when they are yet torpid,
by spreading a newspaper under the vine and shaking it,
wien they will drop upon the paper.
112 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
The Grape-vine Fidia, a small beetle, ashy-gray, some-
times comes in swarms, preying on the foliage, riddling
it completely, and even attacking the young fruit.
Hand-shaking, as above, in the morning, is also the best
treatment for these, as well as for the Grape Curculio.
The Thrip, a small, three-cornered, whitish insect, has
sometimes become very troublesome, as they eat the
under side of the leaves of some varieties, especially of
the estivalis class, when the leaf will show rusty specks
on the surface, and eventually drop. Carrying lighted
torches through the vineyard at night, and beating the
vines to disturb them, is one of the best remedies, as
they will fly into the flames. They are a great annoy-
ance and should be destroyed in time, before they get too
numerous, as they will defoliate whole vineyards. It is
strange that they have almost entirely disappeared in our
Missouri vineyards, where they were so numerous formerly,
and are now very annoying in the vineyards on Crooked
Lake, New York, where I saw them in great abundance.
The Aphis, or Plant Louse, covers the young shoots
of the vines occasionally, sucking their juice. The best
remedy is taking off the shoot, and crushing them under
foot.
The Grape-vine Sphinx is a large, green worm, with
black dots. It is very voracious, but can easily be found
and destroyed. The worms do a great deal of mischief,
but fortunately are not very numerous. The best remedy
against them, and all other caterpillars, is hand picking.
The Rocky Mountain Locust, or Grasshopper, as it is
generally called, is one of the most destructive insects
in those districts invaded by it, and ruined the crops
of nearly two seasons in some sections in 1875. Fortu-
nately its range is very limited, and it appears but rarely.
But wken once it gets into a vineyard, not a green leaf
or shoot is left, and if this oceurs as late as the first of
—— Ss
AND WINE MAKING. 113
June, it stunts the vines for the next season. One of the
best remedies is to dig a trench 2 to 3 feet wide, at the
side of the vineyard, from whence they are expected, into
which they will tumble, and they should then be crushed
by dragging a log or roller along the ditch. If this isdone
repeatedly they may be kept out. It is a strange occur-
rence, however, that in the districts which they invaded
in 1875, nearly all other injurious insects have since dis-
appeared, and the crop of last season was exceptionally
free from their ravages.
Wasps and Bees are sometimes very troublesome when
the fruit ripens, wounding the berries and sucking the
juice. A great many can be caught by hanging up bottles
with a little molasses, into which they will readily crawl
and seal their fate. But while there are many injuri-
ous Insects, we may also count some of them among our
best friends, which will greatly assist in destroying the
others, and which we should hold in grateful remem-
brance. Among these is the little Lady Bug, the small
red or yellow and black beetle, which is always on the
look-out and very active in destroying the Aphis and
White Thrip. These should be fostered, and not de-
stroyed, as is done by many ignorant persons. The Man-
tis, the Rear Horse, or Devil’s Horse, as it is often called,
but the correct name of which is Camel Cricket, is the
friend of the vine-grower. It destroys countless num-
bers of injurious insects, especially the native grasshop-
pers and katydids, which are so apt to cut off the bunches
just before ripening. They and their eggs, which are
often found on the vines glued together in a mass, like a
rather square cocoon, should be carefully preserved, and
even colonized. We place our common toad ameng our
friends, as it is a great destroyer of noxious insects, and
always on the hunt for bugs of all kinds. The toads and
our common active little lizards, should be treated with
kindness by us, not killed, as they are by many unthink-
tes: AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ing people who have a mistaken idea that they are inju- 3
rious and poisonous.
BIRDS.
Generally speaking birds are the friends of the vintner, 4
and should be fostered, not repelled, but there are a few
species which rarely visit the vineyard except to feast —
upon the grapes, and these should be destroyed. The —
Oriole is one of these, and the best plan to get the little ©
rascal is to place a few dry bushes above the trellis, on —
which he will alight and can then be shot. Or these —
twigs may be smeared with bird lime, to which he will —
stick. The Red-bird, or Cardinal, the Thrush, and Cat- —
bird, are also very destructive, and it is still an open —
question with me whether to feed them with sweet grapes —
or to kill them and do without their sweet songs in the
future. But our pretty little Quails, though they will oc-
casionally pick berries when they hang within their reach,
should certainly be fostered, not killed ; for they devoura ~
great quantity of insects during the whole year, and though ~
passionately fond of sport myself, I can not find it in ©
me to shoot them when they make their home about the —
vineyard. Ducks, chickens, and turkeys are also very
beneficial, destroying a multitude of injurious insects,
but they should be kept out while the fruit ripens.
AND WINE MAKING. Ps
CHAPTER. XXV:
FROSTS—WINTER PROTECTION.
Our winters are rarely so severe as to injure or kill
the hardiest varieties, such as Concord and Geethe, al-
though the winters of 1863, 1872, 1874, and 1878, may
be cited as instances when even these and Norton’s were in-
jured. They often, however, harm the Herbemont, Cun-
ningham, and Lenoir. These can be protected by bend-
ing the vines down in the fall, and covering them with
earth thrown on with the plow. ‘To prepare them for
this, prune as soon as the wood is fully ripe, and after a
rain, when the canes bend easily, go through, and while
one man bends the canes down along’ the trellis, let the
other throw a few spadefuls of earth upon them, to keep
them down. ‘Then follow with the plow, and they can
be easily covered. But do not take them up in spring
until danger of frost is over, for they will become more
tender by being under ground all winter, and even a
moderate frost will injure the buds. In taking up, run a
fork under them and lift them out. They should not be
covered too deep, a light protection is enough; but to
merely bend them down without covering, as some advise,
is worse than leaving them on the trellis, as they are
more easily injured here, where we do not often have
snow to cover them. All hardy varieties should be cut
loose in fall, as when the wind can sway them about they
are not so apt to be injured. One of the surest preven-
tives of injury by frost is, however, to plant none but the
hardiest varieties. None of the cordifolia class, as far as
I know, have ever suffered, and here again the Elvira
stands pre-eminent, as not a bud was hurt, even during
the hard winters of 1872—74 and, ’78.
116 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
But while we have methods to protect even the most
tender in winter, by a little extra labor, I know of no
generally effective means of protection against early frosts
in fall and late frosts in spring. We should, therefore,
avoid all locations subject to these, which are generally
those near small streams, creeks, and rivulets, while
locations on the large rivers, and on the high table lands,
are generally free from them, and have, in fact, a season
of a month earlier in spring, and a month later in fall,
free from frosts. This is certainly very important to the
grape-grower, and he should lock to it closely before
choosing his location. It is sad and disheartening to see
the fair promise of early spring browned, wilted, and
blighted by a single night’s frost. But if it does occur,
as it sometimes will, even in the best locations, do not
become altogether discouraged. Every bud on the vine
is, in fact, a tripleone. ‘The main fruit bud in the center
will generally start first, and if this is destroyed, the two
secondary buds will often push, and although they will
not produce so many or as large bunches, will often yield
a pretty fair crop.
But the vines are threatened with the same danger in
fall in these unfavorable locations ; to have one’s grapes
and the still growing canes withered by an early frost in
fall, when just ripening, and fit for nothing but vinegar,
is a sad disappointment. ‘Therefore look well to this,
and do not select an unfavorable location, when there is
an abundance of the best to be had. e
ee NEGF. Pe Oe ED Le ee EY Te ee ee a ce ee ae
AND WINE MAKING. Eee
CHAPTER XXVI.
GIRDLING, THINNING, AND MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS.
The method of girdling appears to have been invented
by Col. Buchatt, of Metz, in 1745. He claimed for it
that it would also greatly improve the quality of the fruit,
as well as hasten its maturity. It cannot be denied that
it accomplishes the latter ; it also seems to increase the
size of the berries, but I hardly think the fruit compares
in flavor with that ripened in a natural way. But it
may be of practical benefit to those who wish to grow the
fruit for early market, as it will enable them to supply
their customers a week earlier, and also make the fruit
look better. I will, therefore, describe it briefly. It
can be done’either on the wood of last year’s growth, or
upon the bearing shoot itself ; but in any case only upon
such as can be spared at next fall pruning. If you de-
sire to affect the fruit of a whole cane, or arm, cut away a
ring of bark by passing your knife all around it, and
make another circle about half an inch above the first,
taking out the ring of bark between them. It should be
done immediately after the fruit is set. The bunches of
fruit above the incision will become larger, and the fruit
ripen and color finely about a week before the fruit on
the other canes. Ifa single shoot only is to be affected,
make the ring just above its base. Of course, neither
cane nor shoot, thus girdled, can be used for bearing
next season, and must be cut away. Abont the same re-
sult is obtained by twisting a wire tightly around the
vine and thus arresting the flow of sap downwards, which
then develops the fruit much faster.
Ripening can also be hastened by planting against the
south side of a wall or board fence, where the reflection
of the rays of the sun will create a greater degree of
warmth.
118 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
But nothing is more absurd than the practice of some,
who will take away the leaves from the fruit, to hasten
maturity. The leaves are the lungs of the plant, the
conductors and elaborators of sap, and nothing can be more
injurious than to take them away at the very time when —
most needed. ‘The natural consequence is the withering
and wilting of the bunches, and should they ripen at all,
they will be flat and deficient in sugar and flavor. The
injurious ‘‘ cutting in” of the young growth late in
August, already referred to, is about of a piece with this
folly, and will not only be detrimental to the fruit, but
also to the ripening of the wood for next year. While
all crowding of the young growth with the bearing canes
should be avoided, to give free circulation of air, yet the
leafy canopy of the young canes over the top of the trellis,
will be in the highest degree beneficial to the ripening of
the fruit. There is nothing more pleasing to the eye
than a vineyard in September, with its wealth of dark-
green foliage, and the rich clusters of the fruit beneath,
coyly peeping from under their leafy covering. Good
fruit will only ripen in partial shade, and such grapes
will have a rich bloom and color, as well as a thin skin
and a rich flavor, which those hanging in the scorching
rays of the sun can never attain.
THINNING THE FRUIT.
It will sometimes be necessary to thin the fruit, in
order to more thoroughly develop the remaining bunches.
The best thinning is the reduction of bunches and bear-
ing shoots, at the first summer-pruning, and which has
already been mentioned. Let the vine dresser always re-
member that one fine bunch is worth more than two or
three small, badly grown ones and, therefore, take away
all the small, imperfect bunches and weak shoots. If the
number of bunches on each fruit-bearing branch is re-
duced to two, it will do no injury, but make them so
;
>a, a“ ” 5
i a a ae ee ee
ee ee ee ee ee eS ee)
AND WINE MAKING. 119
much more heavy and perfect. Thinning of the berries
with a small pair of scissors, often resorted to with
grapes grown under glass, is a very laborious process to
follow in vineyard culture; though it will certainly make
the remaining berries more perfect, it will hardly be
generally adopted.
RENEWING OLD VINES.
Should a vineyard become old and feeble, it can be re-
newed by layermg. ‘To prepare for this, prune all the
old wood from the vines, leaving but the thriftiest young
cane, then dig a trench from the vine along the trellis,
say 3 feet long and 10 inches deep, cut off the surface
roots of the vine and bend it down into the trench,
fastening with a hook, and let about three buds of the
young cane come out above the ground, at the end of
the trench. Then fill up with well pulverized soil. The
vine will make roots at every jot, become vigorous and
young again. Of course a season’s crop will be lost, but
the vine will amply repay for it the season following.
A FEW NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS.
PRUNING SHEARS.—These are very handy, as with
them the work can be done quicker and easier than with
“Kee
ty
yy is
G All Oss aa
Fig. 22.—PRUNING SHEARS.
a knife, and but a slight pressure of the hand will cut
a strong vine. Figure 22 gives the shape of one for
heavy pruning. They are now made by several establish-
120 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ments, and can be had at nearly all good hardware stores.
The springs should be of brass, as steel springs are apt to
break. A much lighter and smaller kind, with but one
spring, is very convenient for gathering grapes, clipping
out unripe or imperfect -berries, and also in making cut- |
tings. Shears will cut the stem easily and smoothly, with-
out jarring the vine, and are much superior to a knife.
No one who has tried them will want to use a knife again.
PRUNING Saws.—These are sometimes necessary t0
cut out old, diseased stumps, although if a vine is well
managed this will seldom be necessary. Figure 23 shows
Fig. 23.—PRUNING SAW.
a kind very convenient for the purpose, as also for orchard
pruning. The bow is of steel, the blade narrow, and so
connected with the wooden handle, that it can be turned
in any direction, and can be tightened by a screw and
nut above.
AND WINE MAKING. T21
CHAPTER XXVII.
GATHERING AND MARKETING THE FRUIT.
Here, of course, the vineyardist aims mainly at profit,
and is often induced to cut the fruit when hardly colored,
that he may realize a higher price by being early in the
market. But if he values his reputation and wishes to
create a lasting demand for his fruit, he should not mar-
ket it before it is, at least, fully colored and eatable.
The first Hartfords (a very poor grape even when fully
ripe), which are brought into market but haltf-colored,
sour and unripe, generally spoil the demand for grapes
for weeks thereafter. People buy them, try them, and
pronounce them, as they really are, unfit to eat, and will
not touch them again for some time., Wait, therefore,
until your fruit is fully colored and fit to eat; whoever
buys of you then will buy again, and his stomach will
not be soured and poisoned by unripe fruit. Again, what
you may lose in price, you will gain in steady demand
and higher figures all through the season, besides gaining
in weight, for the riper the grapes (at least, until they
are over-ripe and shrivel), the heavier they will weigh.
Moreover, if grapes are not ripe when cut, they will shrivel
and wilt (as they will not ripen after gathering), and thus
will look indifferently if cut but a day or two.
To ship them any considerable distance to market, they ,
should be packed in shallow boxes, not more than two
layers above each other. Paper boxes, holding about 3 to
5 lbs. each, are now much used for the purpose, and fitted
into crates so as to ship securely. They are more con-
venient for the trade than the crates formerly used, with
three drawers, and which are, therefore, nearly abandoned.
6
122 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Gather only in dry weather, cut the bunches carefully,
with as long a stem as possible for convenient handling,
and clip out carefully all unripe, shrivelled, or decayed.
berries, taking care not to rub off their bloom. Then lay
them evenly, with stems downwards, fill the boxes well
to prevent shaking, fillimg all interstices with small
bunches. It is better to press down slightly and evenly
with the cover, than to pack too loose, as they at any rate
shake down in carriage. The riper they are the safer they
will carry. I have always obtained a higher price by wait-
ing until the rush was over, and then selling when they be-
came scarce. The Concord, Martha, Wilder, Goethe, and
Elvira, have a very thin skin, and can not, therefore, be
kept much after the first of October, but Lindley, Ives,
Catawba, and especially North Carolina and Rogers’ No.
2, can be kept for months, having a tough skin. In-
deed, Rogers’ No. 2 would keep until March if stored
away, packed in small boxes, in an even, cool tempera-
ture. Norton’s Virginia and Cynthiana can easily be
kept all winter, and are very spicy and good, though they
will shrivel somewhat. But, as mentioned before, any
variety must be fully ripe to keep well. I think too little
attention has been paid to the keeping of grapes until
the holidays, at least, when high prices could be realized
for them; that this can be done has been proved be-
yond a doubt. But for long keeping choose only the va-
rieties with rather tough skins, and keep them in an
even temperature of about 40°. They will keep better if
fine paper is put between the layers, and the room should —
have the necessary ventilation. Examine from time to
time, and remove all defective berries.
The best package for carrying grapes to market, and —
which is now used almost entirely, is a cheap basket made
of splints. ‘These are made to hold 8, 12, and 18 lbs.,
with a cover fastened by clasps or wire. They can be had
at the factory at 50c., 60c., and 70c. per dozen; they ©
AND WINE MAKING. 133
have a bow handle in the middle, which serves as a pro-
tection against tumbling about, and is also convenient in
carrying. he basket is weighed with the fruit and sold
at the same price per pound, and it is well worth this
_ price to the purchaser for home use. ‘This basket seems
to be the perfection of a fruit package, and I think will
come into general use for peaches, pears, plums, etc., be-
ing light, cheap, durable, handy, and effectually protect-
ing the fruit.
It was a pleasing sight, indeed, to see the stacks of these
baskets at every vineyard and wharf on Crooked Lake,
waiting for the little steamers which cross and re-cross
the Lake to take them to Penn Yan, from whence they are
shipped to all the principal city markets; finding their
way to New York, Boston, Baltimore, Philadelphia, etc.,
to be sold there at a price which enables even the poorest
family to feast occasionally on their luscious contents.
There is a vast trade established in them already, which
is steadily increasing. We can readily imagine that these
shores will soon become one of the greatest of summer
resorts, and that thousands upon thousands will leave the
crowded cities, for a few weeks at least, to take a ‘‘ grape
cure,” as is now a common practice in Europe, to return
to their duties in active life strengthened and invigorated
by the pure air and health-giving diet. ‘Truly this coun-
try is a wonderful one, rich in all of God’s blessings.
That the American citizen, constantly in the rush and
whirl of business, needs, above any and all others, such
recreation as a visit like this would afford, none will de-
ny. Let me hope that it will soon become fashionable
(and it need but become so to be adopted by all who can
afford it), to devote a few weeks annually to living a life
of innocent recreation among the vineyards, and come
back better, healthier, and stronger men and women. ‘To
accomplish this will be one of the successes of grape cul-
ture, and not the least.
124 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING.
GATHERING THE FRUIT FOR WINE.
All varieties where it is desirable to develop the fullest
aroma, should be allowed to hang as long as it is safe to
leave them, as the longer they hang on the vines, the
more will their peculiar aroma be developed, and also the
greater the amount of sugar. It will make a very material
difference in the quality of such wines, if allowed to hang
even a week later. But those varieties of which the pecu-
liar aroma is not desirable, and which must at any rate
be improved by adding sugar, had better be taken when
barely ripe. Why I make this difference will be more
fully explained in ‘‘ Wine Making.”
In gathering for wine use clean tin or wooden pails, cut
the stems as short as possible, and clip or pick out all un-
ripe, dry, or rotten berries, leaving none but perfectly
sound berries on the bunch. The further process will
be described in Part III.
Joes Wed sore ae
— HO
EXPERIENCE OF OTHER GRAPE GROWERS,
WITH ITEMS OF GENERAL INTERKST.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
GRAPE GROWING IN SOUTHERN OHIO.
BY GEO. W. CAMPBELL.
DELAWARE, O., Nov. 25, 1879.
George Husmann, Esq. :
Drar Srr.—Your favor of last month, asking from
me some notes upon grapes, reached me at a time when
I was so much occupied that I was unable to give it the
attention I desired, and it has, therefore, lain unanswered
longer than I intended.
My experience with grapes, as you know, though ex-
tending through many years, and including a large num-
ber of varieties, has been mainly that of an amateur or
experimentalist ; for though I have grown the vines
largely in a commercial way, I have never made the grow-
ing of grapes an important consideration, beyond what
was necessary to ascertain their character, quality, and
comparative value. :
This portion of Central Ohio is not specially favorable
for grape growing, being subject to great extremes, and
often sudden changes of temperature. Frosts, late in
spring, often injure, and sometimes quite destroy the
_ grape crop about the time of blooming and setting of the
fruit. And we usually have frosts so early in autumn that
only the early and medium-early varieties can be relied
upon to mature. I have never seen either Catawba or
Geethe perfectly matured here in fully exposed, open-air
culture. A range of temperature from 98° in the shade
in summer, to 25°, and even 30° below zero in winter, is
also extremely trying, and none, except the hardiest vari-
eties of grape vines, can endure such a climate without
winter protection.
127
128 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Mildew of the foliage and rotting of the fruit, are, I
think, less prevalent here than in many other places
which are more favorable for grape growing in other
respects. I mention these things, as tending to form or
modify my opinions upon the character and value of
varieties, believing you would better appreciate my views
by haying a pretty full understanding of the conditions
under which they are formed.
Grapes may be properly divided into two distinct
classes : First, those that are, by their hardy and healthy
character, adapted to general cultivation ; and second,
those that are only suited to special or particular locali-
ties. These might again be sub-divided into grapes for
special uses, as for the table, and for wine making; but
I can not, in the limits of this brief communication at-
tempt anything like a classification of varieties, as I pre-
sume you have already done this in a manner far beyond
my capabilities.
As in most parts of the country, the Concord grape has
been more extensively planted here than any other, and
upon the whole, it may be said, its success has been
greater than that of any other variety. For many years
after its introduction it was exempt from both mildew
and rot, yielding regular and good crops. It is still free
from mildew of the foliage, but in unfavorable seasons,
when there is an excess of rain with much warm, sultry,
foggy weather about the time the fruit approaches ma-
turity, in common with most other varieties, it has
suffered seriously from rotting. The season just past
has been a favorable one, and except where the vines
were injured by the extreme severity of the previous win-
ter, they have borne healthy and well matured crops.
From the Concord have been grown many seedlings,
some of which have attained considerable popularity, and
will, doubtless, prove permanently valuable for the sec-
tions where this class of grapes are most successful.
ae ll tn li a el Od i i lis Le a
AND WINE MAKING. 129
Among the most prominent of these are Martha, Eva,
Lady, Worden’s Seedling, and Moore’s Early, the first
named three being white, and the latter two black vari-
eties. The Martha is, perhaps, too well known to need
special description. va is a twin-sister of Martha, and
the two are much alike. Several intelligent growers,
however, are positive that they are quite distinct, with
preferences for Eva, especially as to quality.
THE LApDy grape is quite distinct from the above, or
any other Concord seedling that I have seen. _ It is speci-
ally remarkable for healthy growth, hardiness, very early
ripening, and quality superior to any of its class, or to
any other grape ripening at the same time. I believe it
is generally conceded to be the best very early grape yet
introduced. It ripens here from the 10th to the 20th of
August, or two to three weeks earlier than Concord. In
color, it is what is usually called white, but is a light,
yellowish-green, and amber-tinted when exposed to the
sun. In size the berry is fully as large as Concord, clus-
ters somewhat smaller. In flavor more delicate than
Concord, as well as more vinous and sprightly. Its
growth is compact and healthy, often a little slow for the
first year or two, but constantly increasing in vigor, and
my older vines, growing in a stiff clay, are all that I
could wish, and make as strong and healthy vines, and as
much wood as any Concords I have. It has been notice-
- able here that all the white seedlings from Concord have
been much less disposed to rot than their parent. Neither
Martha, Eva, nor Lady, has ever been seriously affected
by this malady, and they have usually escaped entirely
when Concord has suffered badly. I regard the Lady
grape as chiefly valuable as an early grape for home use
and for near market. The skin is quite thin, and would
not bear rough handling, or shipping to distant markets,
without great care. It has not been to my knowledge
tested for wine making, but I believe it will be found su-
130 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
perior to the Martha for this purpose, apparently having
more vinous acid.
WoRDEN’S SEEDLING I regard as an improvement upon
the Concord, being earlier, handsomer in bunch and
berry, and, to my taste, better flavored. The vine is
vigorous and healthy, and though a little weaker at first,
when well established it is equal to Concord, and fully as
productive. It ripens here a week or ten days before
Concord, and is certainly one of the most promising of
its class.
Moorr’s EARLY is, in many respects, similar to Wor-
den; both Concord seedlings, and in general habit of
growth and appearance closely following the parent stock.
This variety has been, I think, greatly misrepresented as
too early. I fruited it the past season and found it not
more than ten days earlier than Concord, instead of a
month, as had been claimed. There was scarcely any
difference in time of maturity between it and Worden,
and I could not see that Moore’s Early was, m any re-
spect, superior to it. It is but just to say, I have only
fruited it one season, and upon but two vines, and my
observations are made by comparison of the performance
of the different kinds the past year,
THE BRIGHTON grape has been extensively planted,
and is quite prominent before the public as a promising
new variety. I have seen very handsome and good grapes
on exhibition from the introducers of it, but neglecting
to give it winter protection it has been killed to the
ground two years in succession, and I have not yet had it
in fruit. The vine is vigorous in growth; in general
habit and appearance much like some of Rogers’ Hybrids,
and I think, will succeed wherever Rogers’ grapes can be
profitably grown.
Purity.—The grape which I have named “ Purity,” I
yet have hopes may prove valuable, for it still maintains
AND WINE MAKING. ink
its progressive character, improving in size of bunch and
berry every year. The vine isa very strong, hardy, and
healthy grower, making heavy, short-jointed canes, and
large, thick foliage. In quality and flavor, the best of all
the native grapes I have ever grown, Delaware not ex-
cepted. It more resembles, in flavor, the foreign grapes
of the Frontignac family, than anything I can compare it
with, although it is, in every characteristic, a pure na-
tive of the hardiest and healthiest type. Its one fault is
want of size, in both bunch and berry. Its clusters are
beautifully formed, never crowded, and never loose. In
size, the berries were the past season perhaps a little
larger than Delawares, the bunches averaged less. ‘The
parent vine made a remarkably strong growth the past
season, and I think may now be considered as fully de-
veloped. It has proved abundantly productive, and if
my hopes and expectations, as to improvement in size, are
realized the coming season, I shall probably introduce
and offer it as a new and valuable variety. The Dela-
ware is one of its parents. As to the other, | am not cer-
tain whether it was Catawba or Martha.
THE DELAWARE is still grown in this neighborhood,
and is, perhaps, more planted than any other variety
after the Concord. Mildew of the foliage, and its ten-
dency to overbear, are the only drawbacks to its successful
culture. Its entire exemption from rot, even in the most
unfavorable seasons, and under both neglect and ill treat-
ment, is something remarkable, and where mildew of the
foliage does not prevail, the Delaware may be regarded
as one of our best, most reliable, and most profitable
grapes. And where grape growing is pursued with rea-
sonable skill and intelligence, the proper use of Sulphur
will control the mildew, and the timely exercise of brains
will prevent the evils of overbearing.
THE Exvira has many good qualities, but I think will
be of more value as a parent stock, from which new and
132 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
improved varieties will spring, either by seedlings or by
cross fertilizing with other natives, than in its individual
capacity. I find it quite healthy, and among the hardi-
est, as well as most productive of American grapes; free
from foxiness, but as grown here, rather negative in
character, with always something of the immature flavor
which characterizes the Taylor. In southern latitudes it
is, doubtless, higher flayored, and valuable for wine mak-
ing, and perhaps also for the table. Its great fault seems
to be, excessive crowding of the berries in the clusters,
which, accompanied with a thin and tender skin, causes
the berries to crack and rot in the most wholesale manner
about the time of ripening. This evil can be remedied
by severe thinning out of the berries, but this involves
an amount of labor which would not be undertaken with
our present views of vineyard culture.
The past season seems to have been unusually prolific
in the exhibition of promising new varieties, and al-
though time must be required to determine their true
value, I think it evident that advance has been made in
the direction of substantial progress. The Noah grape
seems to be a decided improvement upon the Elvira,
having apparently all the merits without the serious faults
of that variety.
At the meeting of the American Pomological Society,
at Rochester, in September last, several very handsome
and attractive new varieties were shown, which will soon
be offered to the public, and which appear to have suffici-
ent merits to render them worthy of extensive trial ;
among these were :
NIAGARA, a large white grape, of good quality, with
heavy and apparently healthy foliage, and said to possess
great productiveness and vigor of growth, was among the
most promising.
POCcKLINGTON, another white variety, claimed to be a
9
AND WINE MAKING. lade
Concord seedling, had very large and showy clusters of
yellowish-white grapes, medium in quality, but very at-
tractive from the unusually large and handsome bunches.
PRENTISS, another white variety closely resembling
the Rebecca both in appearance and quality, but showing
wonderful productiveness, and claimed to be of healthy
and hardy growth, was quite noticeable.
LADY WASHINGTON, claimed to be a cross between
Concord and Allen’s Hybrid (white), was both handsome
and good ; white, and with very large clusters. It is one
of the most attractive, and probably one of the best of
Mr. Ricketts’ many new varieties.
JEFFERSON, a handsome new grape, claimed to be a
cross of Concord and Iona, resembling the latter variety,
was very pure in flavor, and even finer than Iona. Will
be found very valuable if the vine is hardy and healthy.
There were also several other interesting and handsome
new grapes in Mr. Ricketts’ collection, the value of which
can only be determined by further trial.
I think, judging from some years’ experience with them,
that some of Mr. Stephen Underhill’s hybrid grapes are
worthy of more attention than they have received. The
Croton grape is fully as healthy and hardy as Allen’s
Hybrid, more productive, and of finer quality. Irving
is very large and showy, a strong grower also, as well as
productive, and of very good quality ; ag hardy and
healthy as most of the hybrids, and for an amateur grape
very desirable.
Two black varieties, of the same originator, named
Black Eagle and Black Defiance, I believe, will be found
desirable wherever hybrid varieties can be successfully
grown.
I received also, the past autumn, early in September,
two samples of new seedling grapes from the Delaware,
which I consider worthy of mention, as promising to be
134 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
valuable acquisitions. The first, named ‘‘ Mabel,” from
Freeport, Illinois, is like Delaware in color and general
appearance, but with larger clusters and larger berries.
It has much of the Delaware character and flavor; the
foliage is thick and heavy, and said to resist mildew as
perfectly as Concord.
The other is a white grape, from Camargo, Illinois,
named ‘‘ Willis,” of good quality and handsome appear-
ance, about the size of Delaware.
There is another class of grapes of which the Hartford
Prolific is the prototype, that I should be glad to see dis-
carded from all lists, as unworthy of cultivation. Their
only merit, in my judgment, is earliness in ripening—and
their wretched quality is calculated only to disgust those
who are tempted by their early appearance in the mar-
kets. In the same category may be placed Janesville,
Belvidere, Whitehall, Talman, and several others, which
should not be tolerated where anything better can be
grown.
I have perhaps extended my remarks as far as may be
desirable to you, and you are at liberty to make such use
of them as you please, using or omitting any portion you
may deem useful or otherwise. I can not, however, close
without a word of congratulation and encouragement,
arising from the fact that sufticient interest is taken in
the subject of grape growing to call for a new work upon
grapes. I think there are other indications that this
great and important industry is reviving, and will again,
at no distant period, occupy a prominent position among
the horticultural pursuits of our country. The evidently
increased interest taken in the discussions upon grapes
and their culture, at the last meeeting of the American
Pomological Society, was especially noticeable and oratify-
ing to all lovers of this noble fruit. With my best wishes
for your success, I am, very truly, your friend and co-
laborer, GEO. W. CAMPBELL.
:
|
AND WINE MAKING. 135
CHAPTER XXIX.
GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE MAKING IN OHIO.
BY M. B. BATEHAM, SECRETARY, ETC., PAINESVILLE, O,
The history of grape culture and wine making in this
State’ may be said to have commenced about thirty years
ago, when Nicholas Longworth and a few other citizens
of Cincinnati, devoted themselves, with much energy, to
the planting of Catawba vineyards, on the clayey hillsides
in the vicinity of that city. These vineyards, embracing
several thousand acres, were, for a few years, so success-
ful as to encourage liberal investment of capital and skill
in the business of wine making, and in a little time
** Longworth’s Sparkling Catawba ” and ‘‘ Golden Eagle,”
became widely known as popular brands at fashionable
dinners.
But in a short time that fell scourge, the Rot, began to
make havoc in their Catawba vineyards, and after re-
peated failures of the crops from this cause, they were
generally abandoned. Then followed the death of Mr.
Longworth, and his wine business was given up by his
heirs, though other parties have continued it in the city.
It was found that the Ives Seedling grape resisted the at-
tacks of mildew and rot, and made a good quality of
cheap wine, hence it was largely planted in that vicinity;
but in a few years this also succumbed to the rot and was
mostly abandoned. In the meantime several of the wine |
makers planted Catawba vineyards on the Lake Shore, in
Erie County, or made arrangements with vineyardists
there to send them annual supplies for their cellars.
Owing to the general exemption from mildew and rot
of the vineyards on the Lake Shore and the Islands, much
planting was done in that region ten to fifteen years ago,
136 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
not less than 5,000 acres were set in three or four years.
But much of this planting was unwisely done—on badly
chosen soil and with little preparation—so that nearly
one-half the amount never paid the cost, and was sooner
or later abandoned. In many parts of the interior of the
State, smaller vineyards were also planted in those years,
mostly of the Concord variety, the fruit designed chiefly
for market. In a few hilly localities in the south-eastern
‘ quarter of the State, vineyards of moderate extent are
cultivated successfully for wine; the varieties, Catawba,
Norton, and Ives. -Within the past three or four years
many of the Concord vineyards, which had previously
been quite successful, have had their fruit destroyed by
the rot, so that the owners are much discouraged, and
some have grubbed out their vines.
With all these causes of failure, I believe there have
been destroyed not less than 10,000 acres of vineyards in
Ohio during the past ten years; and during the same
time there have been planted, perhaps, 7,000 acres—leay-
ing the aggregate at this time about 9,000 acres, or 3,000
less than it was eight or ten years ago. Several hundred
acres of Catawba vines are annually planted on the
Islands—enough to make up for any that fail from age
or other causes. Some planting is also done every year
in the more favorable districts along the Lake Shore and
in the interior.
The past season was more exempt from mildew and rot
than for several years previous; though a few localities
suffered badly, from the effects of rainy and sultry
weather in July, this was not of very wide extent. ‘The
warm weather of autumn ripened the Catawba better
than usual, and a superior quality of wine is the result.
The price paid to the growers on the Islands by the wine
makers, was 4 cents per pound, by the ton, for good
Catawba ; second class, 3*/, cents.
About half of the vineyards of our State, or over 4,000
AND WINE MAKING. Lay
acres, are located on the Islands and the western part of
our Lake Shore. Of these, about seven-eighths are
Catawba, the rest are Delaware, Concord, Norton, etc.
More than three-fourths of the fruit is used for wine;
some is shipped to the city markets for table use. The
crops are somewhat variable in amount and quality, and
sometimes damage is done to the vines by the winters, or
to the foliage by mildew, so that the fruit fails to ripen
perfectly. Still, as an average, the profits are considered
better than could be realized from any other use of the
land. The price at which good vineyard locations on the
Islands can now be bought is higher, I am told, than for
several years past, ranging from $200 to $400 per acre.
Our statistics of the amount of yield per acre of our
Island vineyards, and the amount of wine pressed an-
nually, are not very full or reliable. The assessor’s re-
turns show that the aggregate of wine for the State
ranges from about 500,000 to over )1,000,000 gallons.
The returns as published for 1578 are 708,733 gallons,
and the number of pounds of grapes gathered, 10,341,715.
The entire statistics for that year for the two counties of
Ottawa and Erie, which embrace the Islands and portions
of the Lake Shore, are as follows:
Counties. |Acres of ecard Pounds of Grapes. | Gallons of Wine.
4 3,448,103 318,707
BIG) aie e eeice 1,924,275 151,133
_ These figures are somewhat below the average yield of
the past ten years, and only about half as great as those
of exceptionally good seasons. The crop of 1879 was
about equal in amount to that of 1878, and superior in
quality.
PAINESVILLE, QO.
138 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER = 2X.
GRAPE CULTURE AT KELLEY’S ISLAND, OHIO.
BY ADDISON KELLEY.
This Island has some 650 acres in bearing vineyards,
probably nine-tenths of the vines are Catawbas ; Concords
are next in quantity, being near half of the remaining
tenth; then Isabella, Delaware, Ives, Nortons, Hartford,
Wilder (Rogers’ No. 4), Clinton, and Oporto. There are
we, some fifty other varieties, but wee .
—~ {X only for amateurs and on trial. \
= The land is prepared for setting ©
——\®& by under-draining, by means of
Bia\\ ditches from 2’/, to 3 feet deep,
v= ~ with hollow drain, made mostly <
with thin, flat surface stone, set ‘
up on the bottom, as in figure 24, Fig. 5.
and covered. Another kind, called the ‘‘ Shoulder drain,”
is made as in figure 25, and covered or filled in with the
earth that was thrown out ; distance apart, 32 or 40 feet,
or in fourth or fifth rows.
A few vineyards have tile-drains. Some vineyards have
natural drainage, the rock (limestone) being cracked into
open seams, with heavy marl over it, from 1 foot to 3
feet deep ; this proves to be the best drainage.
Roots one year old are usually planted. Where the soil
is suitable, cuttings have proved as good as roots. They
are put two inaplace. Those that grow are quite as good
as roots. Where both live, one is removed. ‘The most
common distance for planting is in rows 8 feet apart and 6
feet in the row. The vines are cultivated like corn, for one,
and sometimes two years, before trellising. The second
year the vines are cut down. totwo buds, 1n the usual way.
For trellising, posts are set, one to every four or five vines,
Fig. 24.
AND WINE MAKING. 139
according to taste and size of posts; 7'/, or 8 fcc: posts
are used, set 2*/, feet in the ground. The oldest vine-
yards have mostly No. 9 wire, but latterly Ne. 11 is con-
sidered sufficient. Three wires, of the best annealed iron
wire only, are used, the lower wire is 2 or 2'/, feet above
the ground, the other two equally divide the distance be-
tween the lowest wire and the top of the trellis. Good,
clean cultivation is required afterwards. I usually plow
two or three times, and take care to cultivate well
during the season. ‘The first plowing is done in the
spring as early as the ground is fit, after trimming and
tying up the vines to the wires, with willow twigs, raised
for the purpose. ‘They are then hoed with pronged_hoes,
and surface roots cut off to the depth of 4 to 6 inches
from the surface of the ground.
The third year, or first bearing year, the vines are cut to
two branches and one spur of two buds, the bearing
branches have from six to nine buds each, according to
fancy and strength or size of cane. No summer-pruning
is allowed by any one now, I think, except to break off
any excess of suckers at the bottom, leaving one or two
only for next year’s spur. Summer-pruning injures the
fruit both for wine and for the palate.
There were raised here in 1879, between 1,350 and
1,400 tons, of which not more than 40 tons were shipped
for table use. The balance was made into wine; about 100
tons were sold or sent elsewhere for wine. The Kelley
Wine Company bought and made up about 9,000 tons ;
average price paid for: Catawbas, 3'/, cents; Concords,
2 cents ; Delaware and Nortons, 5'/, cents; Oporto and
Clinton, 3 cents; Ives, 2°/, cents; Isabella, 1 cent. The
crop on the Bass Islands—South, Middle, and North
Bass, was as good as here. The acreage being more than
here, probably amounting to 800 or 900 acres, and some
larger, proportion shipped for table use. I have no sta-
tistics.
140 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
The crop was good on the Peninsula, 4 miles south of
this place, while it was poor on the Lake Shore main-
land, particularly east of here, in consequence of what is
known here as ‘‘ Greeley Kot,” so called from its making
its first appearance the year in which Horace Greeley
run for President.
There are a number of vineyards here on the north-
eastern part of the Island that suffer badly by it, and it
is working southwest slowly every year. The berry has
the appearance of having a sting, showing a dark
speck and turning white immediately around it at first,
then turning brown as it spreads; the berry then be-
comes black (not distinguishable from one attacked by
mildew), rots, dries up, and falls off, or is easily shaken off.
There are often two or more of the spots on one berry.
The magnifying glass, or even microscope, does not
disclose any egg or any puncture through the skin. I
the speck is cut out or taken off with a sharp knife, the
wound heals over, and no damage is sustained by the
berry. In several vineyards here the damage caused by
it is as great as that from the Phylloxera or mildew. I
see that Prof. Riley claims that Phylloxera does not cause
rot. Certainly high authority. It is true that mildew
always precedes and accompanies rot, but we never had
rot before we had Phylloxera ; and we do not now have
mildew unless the insect is plenty enough to destroy all
the new rootlets. May it not be that the Phylloxera
causes mildew, and mildew rot? ‘The mildew only
- makes its appearance between the 24th and 28th of June
the first time any year. If it does not come then, no
fears need be entertained of its striking before the 24th
to 28th of July. We had none this year before the latter
period, when there was a rather light attack. August
24th to 30th it was more severe, and the August rot
always continues with more or less severity until the
fruit is made up or consumed. The Phylloxera on the
AND WINE MAKING. 141
roots were fewer than for five or six years past, or ever
since I have examined them, and there was less mildew
and rot.
I have not examined the roots of vines having the
*“Greeley Rot,” for Phylloxera, but shall make it a point
to do so this year. My vineyards not being much effected
by this rot, I have not looked after the matter as much
as I should have done.
The only remedy tried here for Oidiwm, or mildew rot,
that any success is claimed for, is Sulphur; one part
sulphur and two parts fine lime or plaster, are well mixed
24 hours or more before using. The lime, or pilaster, is
for the purpose of neutralizing the acid in the sulphur.
This proportion is used for the first application, after-
ward equal parts of each ; it is blown on by bellows, and
as much upon the underside of the leaves as possible.
I think any application of this, other than from 22d to
26th of the months of June, July, and August, proves
worse than useless.
The weather has little or nothing to do with this rot ;
it clearly is not climatic. It always comes here at
these periods named, if it comes at all, and no one can
tell by the weather if it will come then or not. Hence
the saying obtains here: ‘‘It comes from pure cussed-
mess.” I examined the roots of my gooseberries that
mildewed. I found them all badly diseased, the fine
roots entirely dead. Is this always the case? The
_ kinds of grapes having the most Leaf-Phylloxera, or
Leaf-gall, are most exempt from mildew. The Oporto
and Clinton are free from mildew and rot, and also
free from Phylloxera on the roots. I grafted Iona and
some other varieties that are subject to mildew rot, on
Oporto roots. They did well for about three years,
then mildewed the same as on their own stocks; the
roots also were infested the same, with Phylloxera. I
grafted alternate vines in the row below the surface of
142 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
the ground. The alternate Oportos not grafted remained
exempt from the insects and mildew rot. The Concords
suffer but little from mildew rot; but the ‘‘ Greeley
rot’ does not spare it, or any other kind of grapes. :
It seems to be “ no respecter of persons,” where grapes
are the persons.
CHAPTER XXXI.
GRAPE-GROWING AND WINE-MAKING ON LAKE KEUKA, OR
CROOKED LAKE, STEUBEN CO., N. Y.
BY THE AUTHOR.
On a flying trip made last fall to the famous grape
rezion on what was formerly called Crooked Lake, a
name which the residents have since changed to Lake
Keuka, I gathered a few items of interest, convincing
me that there is indeed a great opening here, and I will
give my readers such notes as a hasty visit of hardly two
days enabled me to take. I regret that the superintend-
ents of the leading wine companies (the Pleasant Valley
and Urbana) did not furnish me with fuller data.
There are about 6,000 acres of grapes on the snores of
the lake, but the chief vineyards are between Pultney
and Hammondsport—a distance of about 9 miles, which
is an almost uninterrupted vineyard. There is quite a
large cellar at Pultney, where I did not find time to stop.
A few miles above Hammondsport are the cellars of
the Urbana Wine Co., an imposing stone structure of
three stories above the vaults, and 56 feet wide by 100
feet long, to which have since been added 2 wings, 4
stories in hight, of 40 by 80 feet, thus doubling their
capacity. I suppose they could ccnveniently store and
manufacture 400,000 gallons of wine, outside of the
~~. ee -
AND WINE MAKING. 143
Champagne vaults, and have all the appliances in the
shape of good cellars, casks, fermenting vats, and presses,
to handle the grapes of half the neighborhood, besides the
product of their own vineyards of about 100 acres, which
produced about 170 tons of grapes last season. The
grapes I saw made into wine there were very fine indeed,
and should produce a superior article. Mr. Bricaut,
their present wine-maker, acquired his experience in
France, and he certainly makes fine sparkling wines, as
the many awards taken by their products in this country
and abroad, abundantly testify. From statistics fur-
nished me by Mr. Clark Bell, the Vice-President of the
Company, the sales of the Company, during the
last year amounted to about $105,238, of which
$78,192 were still wines, $24,702 sparkling wines,
$2,343 in Brandy. The price paid for grapes ranged
from le. to 4c. per pound, of which Isabellas rank
lowest, then Concord, then Catawba, then Diana, Iona,
and Delaware highest. Their best wines are used mainly
for Champagne, and the majority of other wine sold is
Sweet Catawba, a wine I do not much admire. I am
convinced, however, that a very superior still wine could
be made from the grapes grown there. The vineyards
are mostly let to men who work them on shares. They
need good, red-wine grapes to make Clarets and Ports,
and to judge from a sample of Nortons I tasted, which
had been made there, I have no doubt they could be made.
_ The Pleasant Valley Wine Co. is located at Rheims, a
few miles back from Hammondsport. Mr. Jules Masson,
an old acquaintance whom I met at Cincinnati in 1869,
then in charge of the Longworth Wine House, is Super-
intendent of the cellars here. Mr. D. Bauder is Secretary
of the Company. I paid but a flying visit to their cellars,
and could not look around much, but saw enough to con-
vince me that the two Companies are worthy rivals. From
notes furnished me by these gentlemen I gathered that
144 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING |
in 1878 they had handled about 800 tons of grapes, and
made 130,000 gallons of wine, of which 20,000 were
manufactured into sparkling wines. ‘They expected to
handle about 1,500 tons of grapes during 1879, and
to make something like 200,000 gallons of wine. The
prices of both establishments seem to be about the same,
$12 to $14 per case for sparkling, 70c. to 90c. per gallon
for still wines.
These represent but two of the main industries of that ~
region. It may be safe to say that 500,000 gallons of
wine are annually made there, and that fully one-half of
the grapes, if not two-thirds, find their way to the mar-
kets of New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Boston, and
other large cities, for I saw them everywhere, and in
such good condition, and at such low figures, as to place
them within reach of the laboring classes. The steamers
which make round trips every day, from Penn Yan to
Hammondsport, one in the morning, and one in the after-
noon, and which land at every pier and every vineyard
where they can pick up freight and passengers, transport
an immense quantity of grapes, at very low rates, and at
the same time afford a convenient and pleasant oppor-
tunity for tourists and visitors. J have no doubt that
this and the neighboring lakes, with their beautiful
scenery, and their many facilities for a pleasant summer
resort, will, in time, become as famous for their “‘ grape
cures ” as the Rhine and the Moselle are in the old world.
They are within easy reach of all the crowded cities of
the East, and to thousands will prove a more pleasant,
because more quiet and rural, retreat during the hot
months, than Saratoga. This is another phase of Ameri-
can grape-growing, but little developed as yet, and which
has only to become fashionable, to be fully appreciated.
AND WINE MAKING. 145
CHAPTER XXXII.
GRAPE GROWING-IN SOUTHERN TEXAS.
BY G. ONDERDONK, MISSION VALLEY, VICTORIA CO., TEXAS,
The following extracts from several letters to the
author, give Mr. Onderdonk’s experiences and views in
his own language :
[FROM LETTER DATED JULY 19, 1876.]
Mr. George Husmann :
* * * The Department at Washington sometimes gets
things confused as well as other people, as, for instance,
when it reported the ‘‘ Warren” and ‘‘ Herbemont ” un-
der different classifications ; yet, I believe the Depart-
ment is generally correct as to names. We are all sub-
ject to confusion in the nomenclature of grapes. The
grape at one time disseminated by some as the ‘* Lenoir,”
and by others as the ‘‘ Devereux,” is the one I now send
out as the Black July. I have procured it from the
best establishments under these different names, and
tested their identity on my grounds. I afterwards found
that Berckman’s, of Augusta, Ga., had a ‘‘ Lenoir ” grape.
I ordered it at once, and this is the Lenoir of my nurs-
ery. ‘The Lenoir and Black Spanish, the former origi-
nating in South Carolina, the latter in Natchez, Miss.,
entirely resemble one another in foliage and habit, and in
fruit differ only in flavor, and sometimes, and during
some seasons, I almost believe them so nearly identical
as not to be worthy of a distinction (like the Warren and
Herbemont, of distinct histories, yet finally treated as
identical). My Lenoir, in the soil where it stands, is
sweeter than the Black Spanish, or rather is less acid
(for neither of them can be called sweet). They are both
excellent bearers here, and neither will rot.
(
146 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
The Devereux, or Black July, has foliage very distinct
from the Lenoir. The bunches as small, scarcely ever
shouldered, and sweet, is also several days earlier than
the other two. It must be used immediately when ripe,
or it will rapidly decay. It is a shy bearer, and should
rest even at that. My Black July is now ripe and gone,
and are usually gone a week earlier than now. My Black
Spanish are hardly ripe, but will do to market now. I
have a plenty of bunches that will weigh a pound each,
without resorting to special care to secure specimens, and
I think I could get quite a number of Black Spanish
bunches on every vine that would weigh 24 ounces. Of
the Devereux, or Black July, I doubt if I ever made three
bunches that would together weigh a pound.
I give these data carefully, because I am aware of the
confusion about these varieties, and wish to do my little
share towards correcting our nomenclature.
I did not try the Elvira, because I had so signally failed
with its parents. In fact I do not feel much encourage-
ment to experiment outside of the estivalis family for
this region, and give large preference to the southern
branch at that. Having carefully watched, on a small
scale, on my own grounds, every family of grapes, includ-
ing about 65 varieties, 1 have concluded that we must
get our grapes from the southern branch of that family.
The Pauline and Cunningham have suddenly become
unthrifty, so that cuttings were scarce at the last prun- |
ing. I speak of the old vines. The few young vines are
thrifty. The Cunningham grows so very compact upon
the bunch that the berries break each other, and cause
rot. For a year or so I have not been disposed to increase
my small stock of these two varieties. The Black Span-
ish and Warren continue to beat everything else here, and
are established beyond dispute to be, thus far, our grapes.
I do not exclude the Lenoir, which acts in every way like
the Black Spanish.
AND WINE MAKING. 14%
In my grape culture I have kept two objects in view:
ist., to test such varieties as I deem promising, and 2d.,
to raise only enough to supply local demands for the
fruit, and sufficient wood. for my nursery. I had only
aimed at local trade until last year’s demands from France
had induced me to plant cuttings to make plants for that
market. If I thought that the French demand would
continue I would make preparations to meet it, but I
think they will soon raise their own plants and become
independent of us. There are small vineyards scattered
about, from which cuttings could be obtained for ship-
ment ; but that is out of my line, and I could only oper-
ate through the vineyardist, as my business presses at the
cutting season.
[FROM LETTER DATED JANUARY 15, 1877.]
* * * Twill try the Elvira. If ‘it roots deep like
the estivalis I shail expect its success, unless it ripens its
leaves too early. But I had so fully made up my mind
that our grapes had all to come from the estivalis family,
that I had ceased to make experiments with anything
else. If the Elvira is related to that family I should
hope for something from it. But I will try it anyhow.
Some facts connected with the growth of the Ladrusca
and estivalis varieties, have led me to think sometimes
that the prime reason for the want of permanent success
here with the ZLadbruscas, was their habit of rooting so
near the surface. The e@stivalis continue to grow luxuri-
antly through our long, hot, dry summers like cu-
cumbers in rainy weather. On the other hand the La-
brusca varieties, without exception, take such a rest in
the summer, that I have successfully removed them in
August, when they are quite uniformly leafless. The
September and October rains generally start the La-
148 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
éruscas into a full growth here. But even during rainy
summers the Ladruscas cannot grow all summer. Their
leaves attain maturity and must fall. I conclude, after
all, that while the habit of shallow rooting with the La-
bruscus, readily suggest this as a reason for want of
adaptation, that it is not the only reason. I should say,
in general terms, that every portion of the plant matured
in a shorter length of time than is required in the case of
the wstivalis, that the Labrusca requires a longer period
of rest than the estivalis. Our climate will not give
them this rest, and, therefore, the plant gives way. The
Almighty has provided plants for the different latitudes,
adapted by their constitution to their proper climates.
When these plants are removed to a point where the cli-
mate does not harmonize with their constitutions, then
they must yield to the violence against their natures.
Whether the lower temperature during the growing sea-
son at the North prevented development, or the frost of
the northern winter extinguishes life, or whether the
long continued demands of a southern climate enervate,
and finally destroy the life of a plant, the final result is
the same. Climate will govern the limit of our vege-
table productions.
If we will apply these views to grape culture, it will be
seen that Nature has fixed her bounds in the constitu-
tions of the different families of grapes. The experience
of man must point out the limits fixed by the Creator’s
hand, and written upon and within every family of the
vine.
The shallow roots of the Ladrusca can be warmed by
the northern sun, but they are too much heated by the
sun of our climate. The brief seasons of the North can
ripen the different parts of the Labrusca, and then give
the plant repose; but our long seasons, first develop and
then stimulate to exhaustion, the same family of grapes.
Thus we fail with the Ladrusca. I think that the want
a a ns
AND WINE MAKING. 149
of climatic adaptation of the Lzbruscas here, extends to
every portion of their structure. ‘They start off beauti-
fully and promise well for a time, but after two or three
annual crops, they rapidly decline, showing every sign of
premature old age. The southern limit of this family
could be learned by a careful system of correspondence.
Mr. E. W. Krausse, of Waco, a careful experimenter, has
an experience with them similar to my own, and agrees
with me in his conclusions. It appears also that the
estivalis of the Norton type are successful at Waco, three
hundred miles north of me. Here, I have not succeeded
with them, I call them, for convenience, the Northern
estivalis. ‘Those of the Herbemont type, belonging to
the Southern group, seem to succeed anywhere North
where the winters do not freeze them out. ‘There are
flourishing vineyards of the Herbemont, from my nursery,
a hundred miles south of me. The Lenoir was planted
there at the same time, but the Herbemont (Warren) has
driven the Lenoir from these vineyards, as the former is
there found every way superior in fruit, though only equal
invine. ‘Texas is the true home of the Southern estivalis
varieties of the grape. They endure both extremes of
heat and cold, to which we are subject, and no drouth,
however severe, can affect the plants unfavorably when
they are once established. They must be allowed a
plenty of wood in pruning.
————
[FROM LETTER DATED FEBRUARY 23, 1877.]
* * * The Clinton and Golden Clinton are the only
cordifolia varieties that I have tried here. They died
during the sixth year, having produced two good crops.
My own theory has been, and yet is, something like this:
That the Southern estivalis must furnish the grapes for
the extreme South, either by itself or by hybridization on
150 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Southern natives. That the northern limit of the South-
ern estivalis is governed by the isothermal line beyond
which it is killed by the cold of winter.
That the Northern estivalis wiil flourish still further
north, because it endures a lower temperature, but will
give poor results in the extreme South, yet will do well in
the northern portion of the Southern estivalis belt.
That the Labruscas belong still north of the Northern
estivalis, but will thrive in the northern portion of the
Northern estivalis belt, while below that region it will
appear successful for a time, but decline after two or
three crops.
That the cordifolia will succeed in both the Labrusca
and Northern estivalis belt, but will fail in the southern
portion of the Southern estivalis belt.
That these families of grapes will give first class success
only in their climatic bounds, not because of any one
peculiar feature in their growth, but because of their
construction throughout the various parts of their being.
And finally, that these families of grapes must (with
allowances to be made for different degrees of humidity)
become the grapes for the whole world.
I will qualify the above by placing the rotundifolia in
the southern part of the Southern estivalis belt.
I believe that if your experience and my own were upon
the same ground, we should agree throughout. I am
aware that this isrank heresy, or would be treated as such
by the old school of horticulturist. Very good, they are
my convictions. If you bring this thing before the pun-
lic, or if I should do so myself (as I have thought I would
do), it will encounter a storm. But men like Bush,
Jaeger, and I will add, Prof. Krausse, of Waco, Texas,
and other unpretending students will grant a friendly re-
ception, and time will confirm the matter. I am fight-
ing upon that line myself, and am glad to find another,
and I may add, many others, upon the same side.
AND WINE MAKING. pat
I began grape culture by following the old methods. I
have learned to see that their teachings may do in New
York or New England, but.is inapplicable in this coun-
try. They see matters as-they appear in their climate.
They want Labruscas and their hybrids. We do not.
CHAPTER. XXXII
THE GRAPES OF SOUTHERN TEXAS.
BY G. ONDERDONKE.
Mission VALLEY, TEXAS, August 18, 1879,
Mr. George Husmann:
DEAR Str.—I write in reply to yours of July 25th,
concerning the grapes of Southern Texas.
THe Mustane ( Vitis candicans) is scattered profusely
in every variety of situation and soil all over Southern
Texas. It comprises many varieties differing in form,
color, and season of ripening. The fruit is from large to
very large; some varieties attaining the size of the
Goethe. The prevailing color is black. It is remarkable
for the great thickness and excessive acidity of the skin.
The pulp does not contain more than a fair share of acid,
but is quite destitute of sugar in all of its varieties, By
the addition of two pounds of sugar to the gallon, it
makes a wine of some reputation.
THE Post OAK GrapE (V. Lincecumii, of Buckley),
does not grow in this region.
THE Busn Grape (V. rupestris) is here confined to
the mountains. It is a small, scrubby grower, and bears
only once in three or four years. The leaves remind one
of the rotundifolia. It is not found in the valleys, and.
152 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
will only succeed in the most limy barren soils, where
nothing else will grow. All attempts to raise it in the
coast region have failed, and yet I suspect that its failure
with us has been a matter of soil, and not of climate.
Having a small spot just like the soil of the mountains I
mean to test the matter. While it is true that this spe-
cies is quite worthless for cultivation here for the fruit,
yet as it its roots seem to be proof against Phylloxera, it
may be found valuable as a stock for the vinifera.
Some interesting experiments are in progress, with a
view to this use of the rupestris. Four-year-old grafts
are yet highly promising. There is hope that by using
the rupestris as a stock, we may yet succeed with some
of the European varieties in spite of the Phylloxera,
wherever we can command the required soil. This ex-
periment is also being made in France with strong hopes
of success.
THE SOUTHERN ANSTIVALIS, not native here, must
furnish the main supply of varieties for Southern Texas.
Twenty-five years ago but few residents of this region be-
lieved it possible to succeed with any variety of cultivated
grapes. Mr. J. M. Voigt, then a resident here, and since
of Hermann, Mo., began the first systematic, persistent
experiments, with which I became acquainted in about
1855. He mostly cultivated Catawba, and extended his
experiments to about thirty-five varieties. I began simi-
lar experiments in 1858. I experimented with every
class that has been reduced to the service of the vineyard-
ist. ‘The result was that I found nothing to give perma-
nent success outside of the southern branch of the V.
estivalis. We call it Southern estivalis for brevity,
without assuming authority to fix a designation. I ab-
hor a multiplication of unnecessary classifications. But
the forces of Nature have driven us to a distinction be-
tween what a few of us call Northern and Southern
estivalts ; and the very singular climate of Southern
AND WINE MAKING. 153
Texas forces a local recognition of a further sub-division
for practical local use. But I have not the audacity to
imagine the propriety of a general acceptance of this
sub-division for the country at large.
The members of the Southern estivalis class, which
may be represented by the Devereux, Louisiana, and
Cunningham, have grown off beautifully here, but have
borne lightly, and, except the Devereux, have rotted
badly, and all have proved short lived. I think that
these varieties belong a very little further north.
On the other hand, the Herbemont and Lenoir are
here perfect in every respect, taking a very decided pre-
cedence over all other tested varieties. We have two new
varieties of what I shall here, for convenience, call the
Herbemont Division. First, the Harwood, which is
simply an enlarged Herbemont. Second, the Dunn
grape, which is a little larger than Herbemont, considera-
bly paler, and a few days later. I have been watching
the original Harwood vine for ten years, and am led to
place an increased value upon it. I regret that it is not
very successfully propagated by cuttings. My attention
has but recently become directed toward the Dunn grape.
But from the very close resemblance in foliage and habit
which both of these varieties bear to the Herbemont,
which is our most successful grape, I feel as sure as one
could do, short of a complete demonstration, that these
varieties will both prove to be treasures. Both will be
thoroughly tested and offered to the public. ee
oe
EMORANDA FROM MR. ONDERDONKE.
CunnincHam (of Berckmans).—Pale amber, gener-
ally shouldered, very compact; was discovered wild by
Judge Long, near Athens, Ga. Downing describes Cun-
ningham as ‘‘ black.”
154 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Buack JuLy (Berckmans’).—Also known as Dever-
eux, Lincoln, Sumpter, Sherry, Blue Grape, Thurmond,
McLean, Tully, Husson, Hart (Lenoir incorrectly). It
has been found wild in various places in Georgia and
Alabama.
Lenotr (Berckmans’).—Burgundy in Eastern Texas.
Black Spanish in Western Texas. May possibly be the
Jacques of Mississippi—possibly the Cigar Box, or Ohio
of Longworth, but I do not believe it. I shall be able to
settle this question in a couple of years. Berckmans got
this Lenoir from Dr. Decaredene when the variety first
came out from Lenoir County, South Carolina.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE VINEYARD IN TEXAS.
BY G. ONDERDONK, ESQ., OF MISSION VALLEY NURSERIES,
(From Burke's Almanac, 1878.)
It was written of the different classes of grapes by an
eminent Northern Pomologist, a few years ago, that
‘Practically it is of little consequence what view is
taken of these usual forms, * * ag the cultivator is
interested in them only as varieties, and it is of no par-
ticular moment to him whether we have one hundred,
or only one native species.” Too many cultivators have
too long acted upon this idea, or rather this want of
ideas, concerning the grape. Ido not know “all about
grapes,” but for the last twenty years I have devoted
much care to grape-culture in Western Texas, and the
results reached have come from dearly bought experi-
AND WINE MAKING. 155
ence, and careful observation from a climatic stand-
point not yet occupied by our older and more north-
ern horticulturists. i can hardly give my general con-
clusions in less space than to condense them from a
letter written to Prof. Husmann last year.
My own theory, as applied to the United States, has
been, and yet is, something like this: That besides the
rotundifolia, the Southern estivalis family (of which the
Herbemont, Louisiana, and Lenoir are types), must fur-
nish the grapes for the extreme South, either by itself,
er by hybridization on southern natives. That the
northern limit of the Southern estivalis is governed by
the isothermal line, beyond which it fails, for a sufficient
time, to receive the needed heat in summer, or is killed
by the cold of winter. ‘That the Northern estivalis (of
which the Cynthiand ant ‘Norton are a type) will flourish
still further worth, ‘but will give poor “results in the ex-
treme South. That the regions or zohes of the estivalis
family ‘verlap ' ‘eath others in. ths poets portions of
Texas and other localities!‘ wage
That the Labrasca family belongs ‘at ‘north of the
estivalis, but will’ thrive * in the ‘northern portion of the
Northern estivalis belt; While below that region it will
appear successful for a time, but decline after two or
three good crops.
That the cordifotva will succeed in both the Ladrusca
and Northern esfivalis belt, but will fail in the southern
portion of the Southern estivals belt.
That the vinifera varieties, although adapted to our
climate, must fail everywhere sooner or later, on account
of Phylloxera, except in localities where they are pro-
tected by special causes.
That the above families of grapes will give first-class
results only in their climatic bounds, not because of any
one peculiar feature of the growth, but because of their
constitution throughout the various parts of their being.
156 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
And finally, that these families of grapes must, with
allowances to be made for different degrees of humidity,
become the grapes for their respective zones throughout
the whole world. In stating this general proposition, it
is not disputed but that familes with which the horti-
culturists are yet unacquainted, may supply varieties in
the future, and that the viticulture of every zone may be
enriched by new hybrid combinations of material belong-
ing to the same belt. But I do protest against the system
of wholesale waste of labor and dissipation of capital,
which, I believe, must ever result from the indiscriminate
planting of every and any variety, whether it belongs to
our region or not.
I began grape-culture by following old masters of the
far Northeast. I learned to see that while their teaching
may do for New York and New Englend, it does not
apply to our region. © ‘They want Lubruscas, cordifolias,
and their hybrids. We do not,, because they ere not
adapted here. . It is in vain:that ‘we may determing that
because our. fancy leads us to prefer this or that variety,
that we will, therefor; insist upon its evlivetion whether
it is constitutionally adapted or set. ? While peculiar sur-
roundings, natural or artificial, may favor different vari-
eties of different families, yet common sense tells us that
these exceptions do not disprove a rule, and experience
teaches the necessity of following the demands of Na-
ture. And what are the demands of Nature in determin-
ing the varieties of grapes for Texas ?
While in Northern Texas it is quite likely that the
whole of the Labrusca family will continue to give only
temporary success, yet the Northern estivalis, which may
be represented by the Cynthiana and Norton, may prove
successful as well as the Southern estivalis, represented
by the Herbemont, Louisiana, Lenoir, etc. If I under-
stand Prof. Krausse, of Waco, that the Cynthiana suc-
ceeds well with him, I should then presume in favor of
AND WINE MAKING. L157
the whole Northern estivals family, until experience
should prove the contrary.
My own personal experience is confined to Southern
Texas. Here the Southern estivalis varieties have fur-
nished our success, except in localities where prevailing
obstacles are overcome by some special cause. Our very
best grapes for the table or wine is the Herbemont,
also known as the Warren. The Lenoir, known better
at Houston as the Burgundy, and at San Antonio as the
Black Spanish, is also hardy and productive, although
not so good for the table as the Warren. Both are
excellent for wine, and both took prizes at Montpelier,
France, where over six hundred varieties of wine were
exhibited.
The Warren will produce in the fourth year from plant-
ing, 500 gallons of pure juice to the acre on common,
unmanured upland, that will not make more than 20
bushels of corn to the acre. The whole family prefer dry
soils, and do not object to a large proportion of lime in
the soil. The Lenoir comes into bearing a trifle later
than the Warren, but I believe the yield is finally satis-
factory. About San Antonio and New Braunfels the
Lenoir is the prevailing grape. In this (Victoria) and
adjoining counties, the Warren has driven the Lenoir
quite out of cultivation. The Louisiana also promises
well. ‘The Cunningham grows well, but wants a dryer
air than we often have in Victoria County.
We have a new Southern estivalis grape, that seems to
combine the qualities of the Warren, with the size of
the Kumelan. It originated in the garden of Col. Har-
wood, at Gonzales, and by him is called the “ Improved
Warren.” It has, as yet, been tested in only a few in-
stances, and if it succeeds as it has begun, then it is the
rare treasure we have been looking for for the last twenty- -
five years. Capt. Jones (the pioneer fruit-grower at
Gonzales) and myself agreed to call this new grape the
158 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Harwood, in honor of its originator, and it is dissemi-
nated both from his nursery and my own as the Har-
wood. We hope that the name will be accepted.
While the “lists” of many nurseries teem with a host
of varieties, each one of which 1s recommended to be just
what every customer wants, yet the truth seems to be
that there is no one region to which many varieties are
perfectly adapted. The cultivators of each region find
themselves finally driven to a very small number of vari-
eties for profit. If the Cynthiana was blotted out in
Missouri, or the Isabella and Delaware in New York, and
so on, one or two varieties were blotted out from each
general locality, it would prove a staggering blow to
grape-culture. And if we in Texas have only a few va-
rieties suited to our region, we yet have as many success-
ful ones as many older communities that boast of success.
It is within the memory of living men, that the famous
grape regions of the North were, in grape culture, far
behind what Texas is to-day. Already our southern
Herbemont can scarcely be surpassed in value by any
northern variety.
The time and skill which have been expended by North-
ern horticulturists upon northern families of grapes
have vastly improved their vineyards. But we of the
extreme South have a similar work to perform, and
may well expect that when a corresponding amount of
effort has been made to improve the hitherto neglected
Southern estivalis family of grapes, then may we expect
to excel our Northern cousins in the production of the
vine, as far as we excel them in the natural advantages
of our incomparable climate and the abundance and
richness of our natural resources. Perhaps I am an
enthusiast, but with the light of twenty-seven years of
horticultural study and experience in Western Texas,
with a fair knowledge of the North and the great
Northwest, and in view of our recent progress and
AND WINE MAKING. 159
present position in horticulture, and considering also
our improving communications with the outside world,
it seems to me that the day is near when Texas shall be
regarded truly by the nation and the world, as indeed
the Italy of America—the Empire State of the Union—
the great garden of the Continent.
CHAPTER XXXV.
GRAPE GROWING IN WESTERN TEXAS,
BY RUDOLPH EIKEL, NEW BRAUNFELS,
My first experiments in grape culture in this country
were made more than thirty years ago, with European va-
rieties (Vitis vinifera). ‘The vines grew very well for
several years, but seldom produced fruit. One of my
neighbors once grew a very fair crop of Riessling, and
the wine made from them was delicious. But all these
experiments failed eventually, the vines lived and grew
for several years, but died out finally.
I then planted several acres with Black Spanish, which
had been successfully tested here, and could be grown
with good results. I also received about thirty varieties of
American grapes from St. Louis; among them I found
three which flourish well here, and which can be grown
with certainty, viz.: the Herbemont, Rulander, and
Louisiana, The Herbemont is eqttal to the Black Span-
ish in growth and productiveness. ;
The Black Spanish is equally successful in black “‘gum-
bo” soil or sand, on the hills as well as in valleys, but the
hill-sides are preferable, as it can not stand wet weather,
and the fruit rots when exposed to it. The bunches are
long and compact, berry small, with thin skin, black,
160 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
with brisk sub-acid juice, which makes a fine wine of
dark-red, almost black color. The wine is also known
here as El Paso, and it is generally believed that it was
introduced from Mexico, which I do not believe, how-
ever, as I cannot find that it is grown at El Paso, or in
Mexico. It was first planted here by a Mr. Merriweather,
about 25 years ago, who undoubtedly brought it from his
native State, Mississippi.
Among the wild varieties here is the Vitis rupestris.
It grows in stony limestone soil, also in the gravelly soils
of our steep hillsides. It grows vigorously, but does not
make long canes. The fruit is medium, very sweet, and
ripens in August. I have great hopes of this grape, and
believe that it has a future. I planted it about 3 years
ago, especially as a stock for other varieties, and have
had great success so far. I have grafted several of the
best viniferas on it, among others, three varieties of Mal-
aga, Riessling, Blue and White Tokay, Chasselas de
Fontainebleau, and Gutedel, and they have all grown
satisfactorily. Some of them have had some very choice
fruit this season, although very young yet. It is, how-
ever, a new experiment, and time alone can show whether
it will be ultimately successful.
We have also three varieties of Mustang grape, blue,
white, and red; the two last are seldom met with; the
blue is very abundant, especially on the banks of our
rivers ; it bears abundantly, the berries are large, rather
acid, and make a tolerably fair red wine, which is pro-
duced in considerable quantity. It ripens in July.
The so-called Winter Grape ( Vitis cordifolia) grows in
great abundance here, on stony hillsides, and also in our
river bottoms, bears pretty well; berry small, nearly
black, with thin skin. It ripens in September, and
makes a very good, fiery wine of dark-red color, much bet-
ter than that from the Mustang. There is a good deal
AND WINE MAKING. 161
of wine made from this also, and the wine from the hill-
sides is much better than that from the bottoms.
Grape growing is still in its infancy here, but has a
future in this State; soil and climate are favorable to
grape-culture, and will surely be taken advantage of
in time. The cultivation of the Black Spanish has
been followed so successfully, that it attracts more and
more attention every year. It will take several years
yet, before other varieties are found which can be grown
equally well; but this is only a question of time, and,
as remarked before, we have several varieties already,
which could be cultivated with profit, but I believe the
Black Spanish will remain our leading variety.
[ Not. |—I have cultivated the Black Spanish here
in Missouri, and made an excellent wine from it sey-
eral times. It is the same grape that has been dis-
tributed by the Department of Agriculture as Dever-
eux, and it makes a splendid red wine indeed, but is
too far north, and too much subject to mildew here to
be successful. It seems tou me that where this and the
Herbemont succeed so well as they seem to do in Texas,
it will be difficult to find grapes that will surpass them
in the quantity and excellence of their wines. G. H.
162 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE IN CALIFORNIA.
BY GUSTAF EISEN.
FRESNO, FRESNO Co., CALIFORNIA,
EISEN VINEYARD,
December 1st, 1879.
George Husmann, Esq. :
DEAR Sir.—Your kind letter just received. If you
had written to me earlier I would have taken pleasure in
furnishing you with some notes regarding grape culture
and wine making in Fresno. At this late hour I must
restrict myself to the most preliminary statement, hoping
it will not come too late if you should deem it of suffici-
ent interest to be used in your forthcoming work on
Grape Culture.
California takes, already, a prominent place among
erape-growing countries, and furnishes within its limited
area so many different climates and localities, that nearly
every kind or variety of grapes will flourish here. For
example, in the hills of Sonoma we meet with the most
perfect Riessling, producing wines of a light, delicate cast,
and 200 miles further south in Fresno Co., the summer
is both warm and long enough to produce such wines as
Port and Sherry, which, according to such experts as
Rey. I. Bleasdale, in Melbourne, equal some of the very
finest Portuguese wines. Only six or seven years ago,
Fresno Co. was generally considered as a most barren
waste, a desert in fact, where the dry, and during the
summer, cracked soil, was thought to indicate the utmost
poverty. Our plain extends 100 miles, at least, in every
direction ; on the north side it is bordered by the large
San Joaquin River, and on the east and on the south by
an equally large stream, King’s River. The fact that
EE a,
AND WINE MAKING. 163
water for irrigation was to be found so near ct hand,
caused several to suspect that the land was not altogether
so worthless as generally believed. The Southern Pacific
Railroad was drawn through the county, the water was
taken out from the rivers and made to flow through the
plains, and to-day, only six years after settlement, we
pride ourselves on having the finest vineyards in the
State, and the brightest prospects for the future.
Grapes, as well as everything else, have to be grown
with irrigation. The land must be leveled, and so pre-
pared that it can be flooded whenever needed. ‘The soil
is very variable, but consists principally of three varie-
ties. First, a red clay soil; this is the best for grapes.
Second, a white, ashy-alluvial soil, evidently made up most-
ly of pumice stone, the original beds of which can yet be
seen at the foot-hills ; this soil is much poorer both for
grapes and other plants. Third, a sandy, yellow soil,
poor in organic matters, and always occurring on elevated
places ; this soil is worthless for grapes.
My brother’s vineyard consists, principally, of the first
named soil. The first year the land had to be flooded
six or seven times during the summer, to make the cut-
tings grow, but now the whole country seems to be filled
up with water, and one irrigation during the winter is
enough. Cuttings planted directly in the vineyard last
year, needed only two irrigations during the summer,
and will after this need only one every winter. The first
year we found water at a depth of 65 feet. Last summer
we found it at a distance of 6 feet below the surface. We
have found that the best way of starting a vineyard is to
plant cuttings directly in the ground where they are to
remain. Generally we plant the cuttings, say 2 feet deep,
but for a trial, I planted some 5 feet deep, and the latter
atone year old were several times larger than the for-
mer, and bore quite a crop the first summer. Our soil is
deep and loose, and free from stones. This enables us
4
164 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
to plant all the grapes with a crowbar, taking care to fill
the holes well. Of course we plant all the cuttings
straight up and down. ‘T'wo men can, in this way, com-
fortably plant 1,200 cuttings a day, and sometimes more.
We plant the cuttings 8 by 8 feet apart, leaving a road at
every twenty rows of vines.
I have found that the best way is, to have the grapes
planted in checks or squares, of say 3'/, acres, having a
good solid bank of earth all round the same. Near to,
and on these banks, no grapes should be planted, because
they must be free to receive the prunings every winter,
and which prunings must be burned on these banks every
spring, so as to kill all the weeds and insects injurious to
the grapes. In this way a good deal of hosing is saved.
I plow 4 inches deep and cultivate crossways, and keep
cultivating the whole summer. Some parts of the vine-
yard I cultivated as much as seventeen times last summer.
In December, or as soon as the vintage is over, I begin
to prune the vines. I cut off all the superfluous wood,
taking care not to touch those canes which are to bear
the next year’s crop. Those I leave altogether until the
middle of April, when I trim them back to two or three
eyes as required. The reason for this is, that we nearly
always have heavy frosts between the 6th and 12th of
April, and if then the fruit buds have started they are
sure to be lost. By leaving long canes, however, I
manage to keep them dormant until after the frosty sea-
son. Between February and April we have no frost.
The trunk on our vines is generally kept to 2 feet, and
many of the superior grapes rest on the ground and ma-
ture there. We use neither stakes nor trellis. ‘
The grapes ripen generally in the middle of August,
and the vintage can then begin. Some varieties, how-
ever, have been known to be ripe in favorable years as
early as the 4th of July. The percentage of sugar is gen-
erally very large, average 14° to 16°, but sometimes as
AND WINE MAKING. 165
high as 16° on Beaumé’s saccharometer, when at the same
time pure water shows 2° on the same scale.
The Hisen Vineyard comprises at present 160 acres, and
every year about 20 acres are added, the bulk of the
grapes being Zinundel, Malvoisie, and Fahirzozos, the
former two producing Claret and Port, the latter White
Wine. The Zinfindel is here considered the best grape ;
its color is excellent, and its flavor and acid splendid.
The vines average 25 lbs. each of grapes, but as much as
50 Ibs. have often been raised on certain varieties, such as
Chasselas, Rose of Peru, and others. A peculiar trait of
some grapes is that they do not color. ‘The Rose of Peru,
elsewhere considered one of the finest black grapes, loses
its color here entirely, while the Zinfindel always retains
its dark color. In Stockton, 150 miles from here, the
contrary takes place. There the Rose of Peru is always
of a dark, black color, while the eanaoe turns nearly
white.
Besides the above varieties, we have on the place, in
different quantities, nearly 100 varieties, mostly foreign,
but it is also our intention to experiment with Ameri-
can varieties, especially those of the estivalis and cor-
difolia classes. Of the former we have a few hundred
of Norton’s Virginia; they have grown enormously,
but will not fruit before next year.
The must we ferment in tanks containing 2,000 or
2,500 gallons, and the wine is kept in casks of the
same, size. The brandy distilled from mash and wine
is of a very high quality, according to Rev. Dr. Bleas-
dale and other experts, is entirely free from fusel oil,
and of a very fine natural bouquet.
166 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XXXVII.
VITICULTURE IN SONOMA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA.
BY JULIUS DRESEL.
When the first American emigrants came to California,
they found vines already planted in many places, especi-
ally around the religious colonies, or missions, established
by the Jesuit Fathers. From this fact was derived the
name, Mission grape, for that vigorous, but rather coarse,
originally Spanish, red grape, which soon spread over the
whole State, and has ever since provided the market with
the California Hock, Claret, Port, and Angelica wines.
Soon, however, the best European varieties from Hungary,
Germany, and France, were introduced, they grew equally
well nearly everywhere, and were designated as ‘‘ For-
elgns.” Some of these foreign varieties are mainly raised
for table use, as Flaming Tokay, Black Hamburg, Muscat
of Alexandria, and many others, or to be turned into
raisins ; but our best white wines are now principally
made from the Riessling, Gutedel (Chasselas), Muscatel,
‘Burger, and the red, by preference, from the Zinfindel.
As labor was too high to allow of the use of the hoe,
our vineyards had to be cultivated by the plow, and con-
sequently the vines were planted 8 feet, sometimes 6 feet,
and lately 7 feet apart each way, allowing the single plow
as well as a two-horse team to pass both ways. The
ground is laid out with the chain, every 7 feet being
marked by a small, white stick, and the cuttings, or
better rootlings, are planted; these are 20 inches long
and placed slantingly, in holes dug by the spade, about 2
feet deep. The stick is, two years later, replaced by a
strong stake 3'/, to 4 feet long, to which to tie the vine
until the stem, commonly 18 inches to 2 feet high, is big
ee ~~
AND WINE MAKING. 167
enough (after about six years) to support its fruit and
umbrella-like foliage, by itself.
Pruning is done during winter, but in the lower places
as late as possible, to retard the starting of the vines, as
there is danger of the morning frosts, which sometimes
set in even as late as the 15th of May. We allow the
grown vines from five to nine spurs of two eyes each, ac-
cording to age and size, excepting the Riessling, which
has been found to bear more if left with long spurs of
four eyes and some short spurs besides. During spring
the plowing, harrowing, and weeding with the cultivator,
are done. After the beginning of May no more work is
needed, as the constant sunshine will not permit any
weeds to grow ; only about blossoming time, during the
first weeks of June, Flowers of Sulphur is applied with
bellows, as a preventive of or cure for mildew, which pre-
vails in certain localities. Towards the end of September
the grapes are ready for picking, and the harvest con-
tinues through October, and may be finished as well in
November, the sun shining all the while. Occasionally
indeed, some rain falls in October, but very seldom any
damage is done.
Entire failures in the crop, as well as great difference
in the quality of the fruit, are unknown here; but
though there have been 50 pounds of grapes seen on one
vine, and whole vineyards of the Mission grape averaging
36 pounds, it would not be a safe calculation to put the
average yield of one vine at more than about half a gal-
lon. The devastations of the Phylloxera, which will
hereafter have to be taken into account, can be effectively
met by grafting on Phylloxera proof American stock of
Frost grape, or riparia species ; for instance, on Taylor
and Elvira. The experiments in this direction, that have
been tried in France, have also been successful here so far.
Regarding the quality of the wines of California, they
have been rated as too rich in alcohol, and rather deficient
168 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
in acid. They carry indeed, from 10 to 13 per cent of
alcohol, but then there are, happily, those years when
the grape, in its super-abundance of juice, develops less
saccharine matter; and besides we have, luckily, varieties
which, even up to maturity, retain an agreeable acidity,
and are invaluable not only in themselves, as Zinfindel,
but also for cutting purposes, as Burger, to impart more
acidity to the Mission, or its superiors, the Gutedel, Mus-
catel, Riessling, and others.
It is now over twenty years that the bulk of our vine-
yards have been laid out, and ever since we had to con-
tend with fearful odds to fairly establish this interesting
branch of industry. A high rate of interest, high wages
for white labor—the Chinaman is one dollar a day—the
unpopularity of the article and its ruinously low prices,
all combined to make our progress a really thorny one.
Notwithstanding this we may look back with satisfaction
upon our struggle, for did we not come out victoriously
at last ? The market for our wines is finally made, they
have spread, they are appreciated, and in good demand
all over the Union ; and considering their intrinsic value,
and their scarcity, in comparison with the population of
this country, I think we are justified in expecting now
better times for our viticulture. Thereupon we act, the
old pioneer is undismayed, new vineyards continue to be
planted, and even before they have grown up, Americans
will have improved so much in the knowledge of wines,
that the quantity of all the precious wines California can
raise Willebe utterly insufficient for the future consump-
tion of our nation. Yes, this peculiar, temperance-fos-
tering industry will yet grow to be a blessing for the
people and—a splendid business after all.
AND WINE MAKING. 169
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
VITICULTURE IN NAPA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
BY H. W. CRABB, OF OAKVILLE.
The cultivation of the vine in this State was com-
menced by the Mission Fathers three-quarters of a cen-
tury ago, with a single variety.. The history of its origin
isnot known, further than that itis identical with the Pisca
vine I imported from Chili—one of the oldest varieties in
cultivation there, and is the brandy grape of that coun-
try, as the Mission grape has become of this. It is a
vigorous grower and a good bearer, containing a high per
cent of sugar, and a small degree of acid, and is well
adapted for Sherry, Madeira, and Angelica wines, and for
Brandy. ;
The Riessling, White Pineau, and Chasselas stand at
the head of the list for dry, white wines, on account of
their lightness, fineness, and delicacy of flavor. Black
Burgundy, Zinfindel, and Charboneau are our best varie-
ties for Claret. The first makes a dark, full-bodied, and
richly-flavored wine. The second has a fine raspberry
flavor, but rather an excess of acid, and is a little light,
both in body and color. The last one, like the Tinto,
_ has but one characteristic color. Black Malvoisie is our
best Port wine grape. The large White Muscatel makes
the finest raisins, and the White Malaga the next best ;
while the raisins of the Seedless Sultana are the ne plus
ultra for culinary purposes.
In planting and grafting, only the cuttings of bearing
canes are used, and are worth from $2 to $5 per thousand.
In planting I plow the ground twice, sub-soiling it the
last time, then harrow well and roll it. Make a chain o*
8
——
170 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
No. 12 or 14 steel wire 165 feet long, and put on it a drop
of solder every 6’/, feet, beginning fifteen inches from
one end, which serves to make a loop for an iron pin 13
inches long, to stick in the ground to hold the chain. —
Square the ground, chain along one side, setting a smal
peg or stake at each drop on the chain, then stretch the —
chain at right angles across the end, and chain back frora
the other end of the chain, setting a peg at each drop a3
before, which marks out one block. Now stretch tle
chain across the block, and plant 24 rows, leaving the
rows of pegs for avenues. Make a dibble out of a piece
of 1'/, inch gas pipe, by welding and sharpening one end
and putting a pin near the other for the hands and one
for the foot. Make a hole with this and insert the cutting
and tighten it by shoving the dibble down by one side and
pressing the ground against it. I use cuttings 16 inches
long, leaving two buds above the surface. If rooted
vines are used, cut the roots back close to the stock. We
set about 500 per day to the man, and 1,000 to the acre.
From four to eight men work on a chain, and we can
work from two to four chains or gangs on a block. This
plan is very simple, speedy, and accurate, and any kind
of help can do the work correctly; it is equally well
adapted to planting small fruits and trees after the holes
are dug. We usually plant the last of March and first
of April ; the loss is from 5 to 10 per cent.
Among the various methods of grafting, I have had the
best success by sawing off the vine from 4 to 6 inches
- below the surface of the ground, making a clean cut with
a razor a little diagonally, and inserting one or two scions,
covering the cleft or cut with a piece of cloth, and filling
up with fine earth. The graft must be staked and kept
well tied up the first season, and a fair crop of grapes
may be expected the next. Grafting should be done here
in February and March. Two men can graft about 100
vines per dav.
ee ae Ee ee ee a ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee i
AND WINE MAKING. Hla
- I prune with low heads and short spurs of two fruit
buds each. Any variety that will not yield from four to
six tons per acre is pruned in this manner: I leave from
two to four canes of 2 feet each, and about as many short
spurs of two buds each, for long canes the next year,
when the long ones are to be entirely removed. The
Riessling, Muscatel, and some others, will yield twice
as much by this method of pruning, as the other. Oc-
casionally there are instances reported of a single variety,
or a small vineyard, yielding 10, 12, 14, and even 20 tons
on irrigated land, but such crops are a positive injury to
both fruit and vine. My vineyard of 120 acres yielded
in 1878, 5'/, tons per acre, on 30 acres of which the vines
were only three years old, but this season, on account of
cold rains, alternated by extreme heat, while the vines
were in bloom, the same vineyard only had an average of
4tons. The crop throughout the State is about one-
fourth short. |
In 1876 the business dragged heavily, nearly bankrupt-
ing numbers. Wines were in large stock and had to be
sold to distillers and vinegar factories, at 10 to 15 cents
per gallon. Savings banks refused to make loans on
vineyard property, considering that vines added no value
to the larid whatever. Hven many small vineyards were
dugout. Mission grapes sold from $8 to $10 perton. I
could only get an offer of $13 per ton for a lot of 300
tons of grapes of choice foreign varieties, delivered at the
cellar and payable in three, six, and nine months. There
was no market for our wines. ‘They were in bad repute,
due mainly to adulterating processes which were carried
on to a very great extent 1m the interest of importers, and
for the purpose of crushing the wine and brandy manu-
facture Eere. But since that time the business has
steadily increased. The report of the Surveyor General
of the State for the year 1876 gave 35,000 acres of vine-
yards ; the next year 41,000; the next 77,000 ; and this
172 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
year may be estimated at from 85,000 to 90,000 acres,
making an average increase of about 35 per cent for the
last four years. In 1876 we exported by sea and rail
1,115,000 gallons wine, and 59,000 gallons brandy. In
1878 the exports were, of wine, 1,812,000 gallons, and of
brandy, 129,000 gallons ; and this year the estimates are
2,224,000 gallons of wine, and 160,000 gallons of brandy.
The French wine imports have decreased from 7,000,000
gallons in 1872, to 2,486,000 in 1877. About an average
of 30 per cent per year. This increase and reversion of
trade may be attributed to our protective tariff, the ray-
ages of the Phylloxera in Europe, and to the genuineness
and acknowledged merit of our wines. I commenced
making wine about the 20th of September, and did the
crushing, stemming, and pumping bysteam power. The
crusher is an improvement on a French pattern, and is
capable of crushing and stemming over 100 tons per day,
doing the work in the most perfect manner. My pro-
duct for the season is about 225,000 gallons, and that of
the County, about 1,700,000 gallons. The last report of
the Surveyor General gives the product of the State as
7,790,000 gallons, or about 50 per cent of the entire pro-
duction of the United States.
The crop of raisins cured annually is valued at from
$60,000 to $80,000. This year’s yield is probably 600
tons, or 60,000 boxes of 20 pounds each, worth at whole-
sale from $1.50 to $2 per box. This branch of the grape
interest is increasing rapidly. The present active demand
and advance in price, with a partial failure of the crop in
Spain, will give a lively stimulus to the business.
There are now about $30,000,000 of capital invested
here in the grape and wine interest, and it gives employ-
ment to more than 12,000 persons.
Many new vineyards, and large additions to old ones,
will be planted this year. In fact, I believe there will be
as many planted this season as there were in the last
‘iii.
AND WINE MAKING. 173
three years. Grapes have steadily advanced in price
since 1876, at the rate of $2 per ton each year, bringing
the last season from $15 to $25 per ton, and large cellars
of wine have been sold at 25 cents per gallon.
The Phylloxera, as yet, is not found outside of Sonoma
~ Co., where a few vineyards have been more or legs in-
jured. It does not make the rapid progress ascribed to
it in Europe and, I believe, has not yet appeared here in
the winged form. I believe it is attributable to old age,
bed-rock, or hard-pan near the surface, and exhausted
soil, whereby the vine becomes impoverished, and in that
condition it is just as natural for it to be attacked by
some parasite or insect as an impoverished animal is to
become covered with vermin.
It is estimated that there are 40,000,000 acres of land
in this State well adapted to viticulture, and the time is
not far distant when the vineyard product will exceed
all the other resources of the State combined. ©
If the industry be not stifled by Congressional legisla-
tion, whoever lives a half a century hence, will find the
grapes of California in every city of the Union; her rai-
sins supplying the whole Western Hemisphere ; her wines
im every mart of the globe, and then, with her golden
shores, her sunny clime, her vine-clad hills and plains,
will California, indeed, be the Vineland of the world.
174 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XXXIX.
GRAPE CULTURE IN MARYLAND.—CASHIN’S TRELLISES.
BY T. D. CASHIN, HAGERSTOWN, MD.
The following is by T. D. Cashin, an experienced fruit
grower and nurseryman, who, in a letter dated February
5th, 1880, writes :
‘** My grand object is to get a superior grape for market
alone that will be free from rot. One of our would-be
scientific men here says, that all seedlings of Taylor will
inherit its defect of failing to fertilize its fruit, but of
course you are more capable of judging in that matter
than a mere theorist. In fact, the grape-growers of Mis-
souri are doing more for the future and permanence of
American grape-culture, than all others in the United
States combined. Our Eastern people are all following
the old beaten track—Zabrusca and its hybrids, leading
to the same final result—failure; at least that is my
opinion after 14 years of study and experience. I mean
to try the Amber in the spring. I have an excellent ri-
paria (cordifolia) seedling of my own; in quality it is
better than Elvira, but not so large.”
In a letter dated February 16th, he writes as follows :
‘DEAR Str—Your letter and the picture of the Amber
grape reached me a few days ago. ‘Thanks for the in-
formation given in regard to varieties that I am interested
in. For the past three years I have been searching for
such a grape as the Amber; the bunch is elegant, and
must be, Iam sure, much finer in Bee: s colors than
as represented in the plate.
**T certainly agree with you that the grape-growers in
Missouri who are endeavoring to improve the riparia
AND WINE MAKING. ty
(cordifolia) species, are working on the right basis, and
hope that they will be amply rewarded for the time,
patience, and study required in the undertaking.
“* Of late years I have been experimenting and observing
as to the proper methods of training vines of this class,
taking Clinton as the subject to work upon, and find that
the form of an arbor or canopy is the most successful,
as it approaches more nearly to the growth of the vine in
its natural state. I have two methods, one for vines
planted 10 feet or more apart, the other for those at a
lesser distance. ‘The first may be called the ‘‘ Horizontal
Spiral” method, the other ‘‘ Horizontal Zig-Zag,” long-
arm and spur-pruning is followed in both; they include
the principle of retarding the flow of sap towards the top
of the vine, thereby, to a great extent, equalizing the dis-
tribution of fruit and wood-forming material. The trel- °
lises are durable and inexpensive, and do away with near-
ly all the labor of tying. I am very glad indeed if you
have found anything in my former brief letter that may
be of interest to others, and if you think that drawings
of the above named methods of training might possibly
be useful additions to your book, I shall be happy to fur-
nish them.
“Thaye, so far, succeeded in raising only two vines from
the original riparia seedling, but shall take pleasure in
sending you one of them early in the spring for trial. I
have named it the ‘‘ Golden Delaware,” and am certain
that it will compare favorably with its namesake. The leaf
is strong and folds in a peculiar manner, and the fruit is
exceedingly delicate and refined—assuming a beautiful,
golden color when ripe.”
In compliance with a request for a description of the
methods of training referred to in the foregoing letter,
Mr. Cashin furnishes the following, accompanied by
sketches from which the engravings are made :
176 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CASHIN’S TRELLISES.
The methods of training shown in the illustrations
(figs. 26 and 27) have many advantages over those com-
monly used by grape-growers, and are well adapted to
our strong growing native vines, especially those of the
cordifolia or riparia species. Some of the advantages
may be named as follows: Cheapness, simplicity, and a
great saving in the labor of tying, which is almost done
away with except after intervals of years when the arms
are renewed, then ties are necessary to hold the arms in
place for the first season, after which they retain the form
given them. ‘Tying is an important item, as many
grape-growers know to their cost.
The horizontal position of the vine and drooping form
which the fruiting canes assume, are in accord with the
natural habit of the grape-vine. This and the check
given to the flow of sap towards the top of the vine by
winding the arms around poles, as in figure 26, or bend-
ing them in a serpentine form, as in figure 27, has the
effect of more evenly distributing wood-producing and
fruit-forming material, thereby keeping up a proper bal-
ance between the top and base of the vine.
In both methods the fruit hangs under the foliage and
is shaded from the glare and heat of the sun. Grapes
protected in this manner have a much finer bloom than
when exposed. The canes are pruned to spurs of two or
three buds. Summer-pruning is not resorted to except
to repress the overgrowth of canes to the end that there
may be a free circulation of air under the vines ; though
there can be no doubt that a judicious summer-pruning
would be beneficial.
What I have called the ‘‘ Horizontal Spiral ” method,
is shown in figure 26. The trellis is formed of locust
stakes 5'/, feet long, 3’/, inches thick, and are set to a
depth of 18 inches, leaving them 4 feet high. Round
AND WINE MAKING. C77
chestnut poles of nearly the same thickness as the
stakes are nailed to the top of them, the ends of the poles
being made to lap, one upon the other. This method can
be used to advantage in vineyards where the vines are
ees —— Se ee
SS SE
See
SSS SSS ae S
= SSS
Fig. 26.—HORIRONTAL SPIRAL METHOD,
planted closely, say from 5 to 8 feet apart in the rows; 8
feet would be the better distance, the rows being 7 feet
apart. ‘The winding of the arm allows an increase in its
length of about one-third.
The ‘* Horizontal Zig-Zag” method is shown in figure
7 s pS
R= gy$ Se) —— ti Sor
sn
ye > eS
Fig. 27.—HORIZONTAL ZIG-ZAG METHOD.
27; this is mtended for strong-growing varieties. The
vines maybe planted from 9 to 12 feet apart in the rows,
which may be 9 feet apart. In this method the bending
of the arms allow an increase in their length of abovt
178 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
two-thirds of the space alloted to them ; for instance, if
the distance between the vines in the row were 9 feet, the
arms would be 15 feet in length. ‘The stakes are the
same as in figure 26, but instead of poles, pieces of 2 by 4-
inch scantling 16 inches long are nailed crosswise on the
top of each stake. ‘Two wires (No. 10) rest on the cross-
pieces 14 inches apart, resembling the arrangement of
telegraph wires, and are fastened with small staples. At
the end of the rows the wires are attached to iron pins
sunk in larger cross-pieces, which are spiked to posts ;
the heads of these pins are square, so tlat the wires can
be tightened or loosened as required, with a wrench.
In starting a vineyard I allow the vines to grow at will
during the first season, keeping the ground loose and free
from weeds ; in the fall or early winter the vines are cut
back, leaving but two canes shortened to two buds each.
If there is but one really strong cane, it is pruned to
three buds, and the other shoots on the vine cut away al-
together. In the spring of the second year the stakes are
put in, and only three canes to each vine allowed to grow.
When the two stronger ones have attaimed a length of
2 feet, the weaker cane is removed, and the others care-
fully tied to the stake with cotton cloth. The ends of
these are prnched when they have reached the hight of
the stake (4 feet), and then whatever laterals that may
appear are allowed to grow unchecked. The fall-pruning
consists of merely cutting off the laterals. Then, or
early in the following spring, the trellis is completed.
Durirg the third season a few bunches of fruit are
suffered to remain on each vine, from three to six, accord-
ing to the strength of growth, but none whatever on weak
vines, and all shoots bearing fruit are pinched to three
joints beyond the bunches. The other shoots are removed,
excepting the topmost one, on each cane; these are left
to grow unchecked, and, in order that they may make a
strong growth, not allowed to bear-fruit this season.
> & ~o: we
al A te eee |
|
:
|
|
4
Pee
AND WINE MAKING, 179
These are the arms, and as they extend are trained hori-
zontally—to the right and left of the vine along the poles
or wires as the case may be, and tied with some soft ma-
terial.
In the fall, or before March 1st of the fourth year, the
shoots on the lower part of the vine are all cut off; the
arms are trimmed of weak or unripe wood, and then, as
in figure 26, they are wound around the poles, one to the
right, the other to the left of the vine, and the tips fas-
tened to the pole with double-pointed carpet tacks. Arms
from the next vines in the row are wound on the same
poles, between and following the same curves as the first,
and fastened in like manner, so that there will be two
arms in each space between the vines. Should an arm
fail to gain the length required to fill the space allotted
to it, it can be lengthened the same season by terminal
shoots.
In figure 27 the arms are bent to and fro in a zig-zag
manner, and rest on top of the wires ; the bends or elbows
are extended about 2'/, inches beyond the wires on either
side; the bends are formed in succession, and tied to the
wire at each point where they rest upon it, making two
ties at each bend.
The arms are thus kept in place for the first season of
their training, after which they retain the form given
them, and are held in position by the shoots of new wood
growing under and over the wires.
Two arms are used in the same space if desired, but
they should be bent to cross each other in opposite direc-
tions, instead of following the same curve. In eithcr
method the arms should be renewed after intervals of five
er six years. ‘his is done by cutting back one arm on
each vine to its lowest shoot, and when a new arm has
grown from this, the other arm is cut back and renewed
in hke manner.
180 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XL.
GRAPE CULTURE IN MISSOURI.
BY THE HON. FR. MUENCH.
(Exivact from a Letter written for the Am. Wine and Grape Grower.)
‘¢1, T must wonder, that still the Herbemont, Lenoir,
Devereux, Elsinburg, Eumelan,-Norton, Cynthiana, Cun-
ningham, Hermann, Louisiana, Humboldt, Neosho, etc.,
are thrown together as belonging to the estivalis class.
In truth, there is as much essential difference between
some of those vines as between the Clinton and Concords.
A certain class .of vines to which the Herbemont, Lenoir,
Cunningham, Devereux, Rulander, Louisiana, and their
seedlings, and probably the Delaware belong, and which
are by some named southern estivals, are in my ‘ School
for American Grap2 Culture’ designated as ‘ mnifera-
hke’ for the following reasons: Some of them (as the
Louisiana and Rulander) are ostensibly or undoubtedly
of European origin—others may be descended from the
seeds of imported vines (as the Delaware) found grow-
ing wild in the woods near the place where once Joseph
Bonaparte lived, and most similar to the well-known
Traminer which he had tried to cultivate on his villa;
others may first have been planted by the Huguenots
in South Carolina and elsewhere, and disseminated by
birds ; at any rate, these vines, materially differing from
all our indigenous varieties, are so nearly related to the
Vitis vinifera, that, for instance, visiting the vineyards
near Zurich, in Switzerland (in 1859), I could hardly dis-
tinguish the vines growing there from our own Herbe-
mont. Thus we have here a quite peculiar class of vines
not to be amalgamated with the true estiwalis or any
other grape family.
Obed 2) eee
oo
*
4
<
%
a
*
AND WINE MAKING. 181
<2. Most surely are the e@stivalis vines—in combina-
tion with a number of Taylor seedlings—best suited for
the vast region extending between the 40th and 36th de-
gree of latitude, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ;
north of this region is the true home of the Labrusca
vines and the earlier Taylor seedlings (Noah, Black Pearl,
etc. ), while south of it the Scuppernong and some vinifera-
like, and also @stivalis vines thrive best. Chiefly the
middle portion of the Mississippi Valley (Missouri, Ar-
kansas, etc.) is apt to produce from our best estivalis
vines dark wines of the highest excellence.
“*3. All the estivalis vines tried by me are not only
‘ Phylloxeva-proof,’ but also rot-proof, except in the most
unfavorable seasons in unsuitable positions, and by care-
less and unreasonable treatment.
“‘4, Asa general thing the berries of the estivalis
grapes are destitute of pulp, but there are several inferior
as well as most highly valuable. Some estivalis vines
are very pulpy, for instance, the Far West (first grown
by me from a scion plucked in the original forests of
Newton Co., in 8. W. Missouri), which yields a red wine,
declared by connoisseurs to be of the finest flavor and
aroma, quite new, and as yet unsurpassed.
**5. It is lost labor to try to propagate some of the
estiwalis vines from cuttings, or even in propagating
houses, such as Neosho, Far West, and the Arkansas va-
rieties, the wood of which is as hard as white-thorn
* (which fits them to withstand our variable climate and
the whims of our weather); they must be propagated
either by grafting (they will not grow well on Ladrusca
roots) or by very careful layering.
**6. The Elsinburg I would rather class among the
cordifolias, it being apparently near akin to the Clinton.
<°7, The Ives, Perkins, and the like, I do not consider
182 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
worth cultivating, while with us the noble Cynthiana
and Neosho do remarkably well, to which other highly
valuable Western varieties will soon be added.”
CHAP THR 2261,
GRAPE CULTURE NEAR CHATTANOOGA, TENN.
(From the Chattanooga Times.)
It will be, perhaps, a little surprising to some when
the real status and future of grape-growing in this sec-
tion is known. We have taken some pains to investi-
gate this matter, and although our figures may not be
precisely right, they are still approximately correct.
There are now 150 acres of land around Chattanooga
within a radius of five miles, entirely devoted to grape-
culture. All of this is now in bearing, but the next sea-
son the prospect is that much more of this land will
be put into grape cultivation. Seventy acres are owned
by Stanley & Rickey, the rest 1s owned by parties in
small lots. This year the grapes, as a general rule, are
much finer than usual, but there will be only about
half a crop, caused by the unusual cold spring. In the
last sia years there has been no failure at all in the
crop, and all but one were fair. The crop this season
will amount to about 200,000 pounds. An acre, when
trellised well, will, on an average, yield about 4,000
pounds, and where there are only poles, about 2,000
pounds. ‘he average price in the Northern market the
year around is about ten cents ; therefore, this year’s
erape crop will bring about $20,000 in this section.
At present the high express rates and frequent trans-
a
SS ae ee ee ee
AND WINE MAKING, 183
fers reduce the net amount received by the growers to
a small margin, but when the C. 8. R. R. is completed,
all of this will be obviated, and the profits will be
tripled or even quadrupled. In view of this there will
be heavy outlays by all growers this winter, and next
summer the largest stock ever grown here can be ex-
pected. The large majority of growers ship to Cincin-
nati, but Stanley & Rickey send their grapes to Chicago
alone. In illustration of the quality of the grapes
grown in this section, we will cite one instance: On
August 7, Southern Illinois grapes sold in Chicago at
5 cents per pound, on the same day Chattanooga grapes
brought 10 cents.
The shipment from this point sometimes is very large ;
Stanley & Rickey have been known to ship in one day
as high as 4,000 pounds. They employ, at times, as
high as thirty men in their vineyard. _ A small portion
gather the crops, a larger number are busily employed
carefully assorting and picking. | In a shipment no
over-ripe or rotten grape can remain in a cluster, or the
whole lot will be spoile?. The largest and finest clus-
ters raised this season have been by the Steele Bros.,
who ship to Cincinnati.
In the construction of stands great care must be
taken. Sassafras leaves are strewed over the bottom of
the drawer, then the grapes are packed very tightly,
when they are covered with another layer of leaves,
and are thereby kept in a thoroughly fresh condition.
Almost all our grapes are raised on Missionary Ridge.
Nearly every cultivated field between Rossville and the
East Tennessee, Virginia, and Georgia Railroad tunnel’
has a vineyard of some size. ‘This country, with its
numerous hills, is specially adapted to the culture of
grapes, and after rates reasonably profitable to the
grower can be obtained on the railroads, this section
will become one of the most important grape-growing
184 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
localities in the country. It is a lucrative and pleasant
investment, and from present appearances we may ex-
claim before long, with perfect justice, of the ‘‘ vine
clad hills” of Hamilton County.
CHAPTER: XLIL
WHITE ELK VINEYARDS, IOWA.
(From the American Wine and Grape Grower for Nov., 1879.)
These vineyards are situated on the west bank of the
Mississippi river, in the south-east corner of the State
of Iowa, and in and near the city of Keokuk. The
wines made there are chiefly Catawba, Concord, Ives,
Norton’s Virginia, Delaware, Clinton, Iona, and Alvey,
and have some reputation in the Hast, but are better
known in the West and South. ‘They are remarkable
for the reason that they are the pure juice of the
grapes whose names they bear, being neither mingled
nor doctored, and are brought to maturity by the Pas-
teur method, which gives the wines the advantage of a
year or more in ripening them for market.
The vineyards were established some ten or twelve
years ago by the Hon. Hiram Barney, of New York, for-
merly Collector under President Lincoln, and now em-
brace a little less than 100 acres in vines. The vintage
product is from 15,000 to 30,000 gallons, and is increas-
ing annually. Mr. Barney, in order to secure the future
permanence of the vineyards after he has passed away,
has recently transferred their ownership to a corpora-
tion known as the ‘‘ White Hlk Vineyard Company,”
ad
se
4
lt at i
AND WINE MAKING. 185
in which he is the principal stockholder, with capital
stock fixed at $50,000 (although they have cost over
$100,000).
The officers are: Hon. John H. Craig, President ;
Gen. Louis T. Barney, Vice-President ; and Hon. Ed-
ward Jaeger, Secretary and Treasurer. The Directors
are, in addition to the above: Mr. Hambden Buel and
Hon. Hiram Barney.
The wealth and position of these gentlemen, in ad-
dition to the good repute in which the wines are al-
ready held, ought to, and no doubt will, insure the
company the desired measure of success.
The origin of the name ‘‘ White Elk” was somewhat
romantic and is as follows: In 1841, Mr. Barney, then a
young limb of the law, visited the territory in behalf of
certain clients who had invested largely in the claims of
the half-breeds of the Sac and Fox tribes of Indians, then
residing on the reservations of that name in the southern
part of the territory, having about that time obtained a
decree of the court settling the title. ‘Late in the month
of October, he, with a party of friends and an interpreter,
started across the country in carriages and on horseback to
the Indian encampment, some 100 miles beyond the lines
of civilized habitations ; arriving there they were received
with great ceremony, and treated with kingly hospitality
by Keokuk the then King of the united Sac and Fox
tribes, and also by all the lesser chiefs, in imitation of the
head one. Mr. Barney and his party remained two or three
days and then prepared to return to their homes beyond
the Mississippi, but before doing so Mr. Barney thought it
worth his while for certain reasons to be adopted into the
tribe, and sought Keokuk for the purpose of having the
ceremony performed, but not finding him at the moment
concluded to take his departure as he came, a simple white
man. But the fates had ordered otherwise, for they had
proceeded scarcely a mile on their journey before they were
186 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
intercepted by Na-She-Kus-Kuk, Chief of the Sac tribe,
with fifty mounted Indians, in full war paint and feathers,
all charging at full speed. The young chief, who was a
magnificent specimen of the red man, standing 6 feet, rode
up and made known the fact that he had been sent by
Keokuk to perform the ceremony of adoption for his
brother the pale face. Mr. Barney having expressed his
willingness, Na-She-Kus-Kuk raising his arm gracefully,
slowly, and with emphasis, pronounced the words Wa-Be-
Me-Shi-Wa, or White Elk, which was the tribal name
given to Mr. Barney ; all the Indians composing the caval-
cade, and a multitude of women and children who had by
this time gathered around, took up the word and shouted
it over and over again, while the horsemen wheeled and
disappeared as quickly as they came. And thus Mr.
Barney became the Sac Chief, <‘ White Elk,” which name
he bestowed upon his vineyards as a memorial of this
singular event.
CHAPTER XLITI.
THE PHYLLOXERA PROBLEM.
(From the Pacifie Rural Press.)
Julius Dresel, of Sonoma, Cal., writes to the Alta con-
cerning the danger of the Phylloxera, and what he is do-
ing to guard against it, as follows: Something must be
done soon, or shall we continue calmly to stand by and,
see the vineyards, in the neighborhood of Sonoma for in-
stance, In increasing proportions steadily changing into
dead land ? In vain I look around, and nowhere can I
see any serious steps taken to remedy the fearful evil that
is upon us. But how can we afford to remain inac-
tive for another season! Forsooth, then, we had better
AND WINE MAKING. 187
prepare ourselves at once to see the 100,003 vines
already destroyed, amount to millions. Allow me,
therefore, to give you here, my experience and my
opinion as to the best means to reconquer the lost
ground ; for as to averting the destroyer, | think we
had better dispense with the application of any chem-
ical preventive. The great prize offered by France for
such an invention has not yet been won; and even if
it had been, how could we employ, and perhaps more
than once, a chemical preparation on stretches of 100
acres, to a depth of 4 feet? And where is the
money to come from? And neither is there any re-
liance to be put on the power of resistance of the
younger vines, or on the richness of the soil. My own
eyes witnessed the Phylloxera crawling on its victims
entirely regardless of individual, young or old, luxuri-
ous or lean; all Asiatic varieties of the Vitis vinifera,
that is to say, every grapevine imported from Europe,
has to succumb to the relentless double sting of these
myriads of lice—the roots rot! No more is manuring,
how much soever to be recommended in other respects,
a preservative against the inroads of these insects. As
the rings grow wider and wider from the spot where
the stone has fallen into the water, be it deep or shal-
low, so the circle of devastation of the Phylloxera ex-
pands from the first point of infection toward the out-
skirts over rich and poor land, with scarcely any differ-
ence; the strong and the weak have to perish alike.
In three years the work is done. In the first you will
not remark much, excepting perhaps a fading of color
on the leaves ; in the second, you see the branches no
longer hanging down in sweeping boughs, but standing
upright, shortened and stiff, with a yellow foliage early
in fall; in the third, their appearance is entirely crip-
pled and shorn ; they look like old willow stumps, and
the horses have to tear them out to be burned.
4
188 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Under these circumstances, I followed the precedent
of the French, who, for sometime, have made experi-
ments with, and ordered Phylloxera-proof vines from
Missouri in still increasing quantities. I planted Elvira
and Taylor, both white varieties of the riparia grape,
and cordifolia, a wild, red variety of the same family,
which has obtained the preference up to this time.
Previously I grafted the cuttings indiscriminately with
Gutedel, Riessling, Zinfindel, etc., and I see them grow
with their grafts just as well as ours; also those that
were transferred to the nursery, there to form roots for
the next season. Further my own experience does not
go, but I put entire confidence in this way to help us
out of the scratch, supported as I am not only by the
success of the French, as stated in the highly interest-
ing articles of Wetmore, which appeared in the Alfa,
but also by the microscopic examinations of F. Hecker
of Belleville, who found the fibre of the varieties of the
Frost Grape and the riparia so hard and tough that the
tiny trunk of the Phylloxera can not well penetrate it.
Catawba, Isabella, and many other varieties formerly in
use, have been relinquished as not reliable in the same
degree, or for other objections.
Here, then, we have a sufficient reason to make use
of the above given sorts, as resisting the inroads of the
Phylloxera, to make up for losses with new plantations.
I cannot help wondering at those who still continue
to trust the Asiatic vines, even for new extensions,
when they stand surrounded by the irrepressible hosts
of their arch-enemies. No doubt they believe that
something fortunate will yet turn up against the Phyl-
loxera. Let us rather be watchful and active—all who
are weary and burdened with vineyards—lest we may
fall under an impending mortgage foreclrsure.
My mode of proceeding is this: I put an exactly-
fitting graft of two eyes on the cuttings, having them
> ee, “oe, ee
AND WINE MAKING. 189
first shortened for the uppermost knot, and winding
around it, all along the graft-cut, a suitable twine.
I have not used any wax, which, perhaps, might do
well as a coating. For the manner of grafting, every
one may choose the cut he likes best, and thinks suited
to answer the purpose. Good care should be taken to
prevent the cuttings from getting dry, by keeping them
covered with moist soil; sand would be preferable. In
this wise one can finish about 175 grafts in a day, sit-
ting snugly at home; some years later, grafting on the
stem may cost three times as much work. I leave it
to the judgment of my fellow vine-growers, whether
they would not rather plant the Missouri vines first in
the nursery, there to take root, and graft afterward,
before transferring to the vineyard. If orders are given
during October, the vines will probably be sent in
January, and the planting should be done in March at
the latest. Do not expect to get as vigorous and
many-eyed cuttings as we are wont to get here; most
of the slips are thin and long-linked, but they grow all
the same. About the stems which these Missouri vines
will make, I cannot speak from experience, but I have
not heard any complaints from France ; besides, I am
inclined to assume that our genial climate will improve
their strength, as it did for the Gutedel, and others.
199 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XLIV.
EGG HARBOR WINES—EARLY WINTER GRAPE—COST OF A
VINEYARD.
EGG HARBOR WINES.
The following is extracted from an account in the
‘¢ American Wine and Grape Grower,”’ November, 1879, :
of a visit to Egg Harbor, N. J. With a view to make
their wines better known, the owners of the leading vine-
yards, at Hee Harbor, some years ago inaugurated an
annual reception, to which prominent citizens of Phila-
delphia and others are invited. On this occasion
‘‘The representative wine-growers who were visited
spared no pains to throw open every source of informa-
tion and provide all possible means of comfort and plea-
sure for the visitors. After passing upon the well-known
merits of the white ‘ Martha’ and red wines of J. Ful-
ler, the party visited Heil’s vineyards, where similar
wines were tested. Capt. Saalman’s favorite, ‘ Black
Rose,’ next underwent the trial of the connoisseurs, and
the party then visited the leading wine-grower of the
place, Julius Hincke, prominent as the man who placed
his celebrated ‘Iohlink’ and ‘ Franklin’ wines in com-
petion with those of France and the rest of the world at
the Paris Exhibition. These wines took a medal there,
as they had previously done at the Centennial.
‘* After an address of welcome by Mr. Hincke, ex-Presi-
dent Lucas took occasion to express his gratification over
the fact that these wines met with high favor, not only
in New York and the other principal cities of America,
but also in England and on the European continent.
They were superior, he said, to Burgundy wine, and had
already raised New Jersey to a place among the leading
es ooes
Se Wo aa
satel alas
. e
AND WINE MAKING. 191
wine-growing districts of the world. Count D’Assi coin-
cided with Mr. Lucas, and said he was forced to admit
that the wine-growing lands along the Camden and At-
lantic Railroad were a stccessful rival even of the soil
from which had come the Falerian that Horace had im-
mortalized. Kqually favorable comments were made by
a number of gentlemen at the Claret and Catawba vaults
of ‘Tl’. H. Bannihr.”
NOTE ON THE EARLY VICTOR GRAPE.
BY SAM. MILLER, BLUFFTON, MO.
This grape, grown from seed by John Burr, of Leaven-
worth, Kansas, is certainly the best of the early grapes
that have vet come to my notice. Bunch medium to
large ; berry size of Isabella, and has the same obiong
form, black, with a handsome bloom; pulp soft and
sweet, as well as rich, skin thin. It is entirely free from
the foxiness of its parent, the Concord. The vine \s
vigorous, foliage healthy, and immensely productive.
He has sent me the fruit three years in succession, and it
has improved every year. The past season it bore here
with me, and was quite a prize. It ripens about a week
earlier than Hartford, and will not only rank high as a
table grape, but will also make an excellent wine, if 1ay
judgment is worth anything. Mr. B. has also a white
variety, fruit of which he sent me, which is quite early,
and will give the Lady a hard race, as it is entirely free
from foxiness.
COST OF ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD.
This must, of course, vary greatly with the locality,
price of labor, manner of preparing the soil, variety
planted, manner of training, etc. I give below the cost
of an acre in our locality, (Boone Co., Mo.) on ordinary
192 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
soil, and with no unusual obstructions, such as stones,
stumps, etc.:
Plowing and sub-soiling, three teams: y..02.2 i. oaee ace $ 700
G50 Elvira (or Goethe) piants, $0 per 100.0. oo... oe eee 82 50
Plan timirt , sos): < ale wens iio des 1 Rs ssa sah oe ay aceeeetaone at 5 00
Cultivating B Vearsi. co. a. delas'e ne ge ake sas snes coe eee 30 00
300 Trellis. Posts, 8:Cts 24555 vaca Se. 3 SK, ek ie eee 24 OO
50t tps, No. se Wire, ( cls. per Uso. <3 0d6 ocd » 2 eee 35 00
Setime Posts and stretching wire... 202... ded oee ones ven eee 5 Ov
Mo tals: <.)yae sk ocet-s'= Me eidiave sie'SG.0 4,0 susiale, eon Ce $138 50
The cost will vary with the varieties.—If Concord are
taken, they can be had for $1.50 per 100; Norton’s Vir-
ginia or Cynthiana will cost from $8 to $15 per 100.
Thus, the cost may vary from $120 to $200 per acre.
The above is for a trellis of three wires ; for two it will
be about $11 to $12 less. The distance is for vines set
610 or8 x8, with a row in the center left out for a road.
The returns will vary so much with the locality, and
with the season, that 1t would be useless to speculate upon
them here. Every planter can form his own estimate.
It will depend upon the price that can be obtained for the
grapes or the wine, and many other circumstances which
cannot be foreseen in awork like this, which is merely
intented to give an outline of the necessary operations.
I have aimed to gather facts from different sections of
the country, from eminent grape-growers, and include
them in this little book. It will illustrate the different
methods and views in different sections, together with
some observations made on a recent Eastern trip, and I
trust that this Second Part will not be the least interest-
ing portion of the work. To all who have thus con-
tributed I tender my grateful acknowledgments, as well
as for the many courtesies and friendly greetings I
received from brother grape-growers, which made me
feel again and egain that there is a free-masonry among
members of our profession, which makes us feel at home
wherever we clasp the hand of a follower of our gentle craft.
iy EL
——_+.—__—_—
AMERICAN WINE MAKING.
(193)
CHAPTER XLV.
WINE MAKING.
It can hardly be expected, in a book which only aims
to be the guide of the average cultivator, and to render
grape growing and wine making easy for the masses, that
I should enter into the secrets of the wine dealer and
chemist, giving elaborate descriptions of the manufacture
of sparkling wines, and the artificial compounds of the
so-called sweet wines, vins de liqueur, etc. My chief
aim is to demonstrate in a simple and plain manner, the
rules which are necessary to success. Wine making is a
very simple art, which every one with sound common
sense may acquire, yet it can not be followed successfully
without a strict observance of these rules. I shall be as
concise as possible, and hope that this little volume may
enable every one, who wishes to do so, to make healthful
and palatable wine for his own use, and at the same time
to assist the owner of ten or twenty acres of vineyard to
conyert the products of it into a salable article of
commerce.
THE CELLAR.
- Before making wine, room should be provided to keep
it. If you want to make only a small quantity for your
own use, and have a common house-cellar, it wiil answer
the purpose, although not likely to be cool enough in
summer. The main consideration is to always have
the wine thoroughly fermented and finished during
(195)
~-
196 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
the first winter. If this is the case, it will keep even in a
temperature of 65°, though 45° would be better. But if
one wishes to take up wine making as a business, and
manufacture several thousand gallons, a special building
for the purpose is necessary.
A steep hillside, sloping towards the north, is the
most suitable locality, and the most economical and
most convenient building is one of three stories. The
lower one, for keeping the wine when finished, should be
completely underground, the second story, intended for
the fermenting cellar, partially so, at least, and the third,
intended for the press house, can be entirely above ground,
so that the grapes can be conveniently carried into it.
The lower story should be well walled and, if possible,
arched with stone, though this is not indispensable. If
arched, it should be about 18 feet wide by 12 feet high
from the floor to the middle of the arch, so that there is
room for casks 5 feet long in two rows, one on each side,
space enough between the casks and the wall to pass be-
hind them, and a passage of 5 to 6 feet in the center, to
allow space for drawing off wine, moving casks, etc.
The length can be suited to the wants of the builder ; the
entrance should, if possible, be even with the ground,
and if built into the hillside, it can easily be made so,
and the back part of the cellar slightly elevated, so that
it will drain towards the door. It is best to have a room
in front, so as to keep out the cold air; this can be
used for storing empty casks, cellar utensils, etc. The
cellar should be well ventilated on the sides by air flues
built in the wall, and constructed somewhat like chim-
neys, commencing at the bottom and terminating above
the arch. These are to be closed by a grate and trap
door, so that they can be opened at will, to admit air and
light. The cellar isto be closed by strong double doors.
Place on each side two rows of beams, lengthwise, as
layers for the casks, one to be about 2 feet from the wall,
AND WINE MAKING. 19%
the other 4’/, fect. It will be best if the floor is paved
with brick or flags.
The second story of the building is intended for the
fermenting cellar, and may be made either of stone, which
is certainly the most durable, or of wood, if cheaper and
more convenient ; it need not be arched. It should be,
at least, 9 feet high, and partly under ground, with its
entrance from the rear, as this will be more convenient.
There ought to be holes through the arch of the lower
cellar, large enough to admit the passage of a hose, by
which the wine can be racked from the casks in the
upper cellar into the casks below. ‘This room need not
be arched, but should be so constructed that it is free
from frost, and can be heated by a stove, if necessary, to
regulate the temperature while the must is fermenting.
Place layers, or beams, to receive the casks, on both
sides, as in the lower cellar.
The third story is above the ground, and is calculated for
the press room, with the entrance from the back, and is
intended to contain the wine press, grape mill, and fer-
menting vats, together with all the necessary implements
for wine making. The whole is to be covered with a good
roof, and there should be a large cistern, to receive all the
water from it, and as convenient to the press room as
possible, so that the water can be drawn into the room by
a force pump. If the press room is so arranged as to be
heated by a stove, it will be found convenient in winter
as a shop in which to prepare cuttings, etc.
To sum up, there should be: 1st. A cellar to keep the
__ fermented wine altogether below ground, so that it will
remain at as even a temperature as possible. 2nd. A fer-
menting cellar, or good, air tight room, which need not
necessarily be below ground, if it can be kept free from
frost until about December 15th, to put the must through
arapid and thorough fermentation. 3d. A press room for
receiving and washing the grapes, and, when necessary,
198 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
passing them through alight fermentation before pressing,
with sufficient room for all the implements. 4th. Plenty
of good cistern water for all purposes. All the stories, for —
greater convenience in working, to be connected by hose.
As observed before, any one can make and keep a small
quantity of wine for home use, even without a regular
wine cellar. One of the most successful wine makers I
ever knew, and who afterwards made it by tens of thou-
sands of gallons, stored his first crop in a hole in the
ground, 8 feet deep, and planked inside, with a board
roof ; in this he placed his casks, and covered the whole
with earth. But for the cultivator who would make
grape growing and wine making his business, a separate
wine cellar will become absolutely necessary, and should
be built as soon as possible. The expense will be accord-
ing to the dimensions; a building 30 by 18 feet would
cost here now about $1,500, and have a capacity of 5,000
gallons in the lower cellar, provided casks of not less than —
500 gallons are used.
CELLAR FURNITURE.
We now come to the utensils necessary for wine mak-
ing. You need:
1st. A Press.—The most convenient one for a medium-
sized establishment, to press say not over 5,000 gallons
per annum, I have found to be one made at Belleville,
Ill. It is compact, takes little space, and it has a false
bottom, which can be easily taken off and cleaned.
The hopper is in the shape of a double-grooved ring, so
that the juice can flow off towards the middle, the out-
side, and the bottom ; it does the work quickly and well.
A strong iron screw is in the middle, and is worked by
a lever on top. It costs about $35 to $40. It is dura-
ble, easily cleaned, and takes little space. A small
quantity of grapes can, of course, be pressed with any
AND WINE MAKING. 199
kind of acider press. One will press about a barrel at
a time, and twenty barrels can be worked off in a day.
2nd. THe Mitit.—For mashing grapes, a simple pair
of wooden rollers, connected by cog wheels, and running
against each other, so arranged that they can be set by
serews to any desired distance apart, will do the work
better than anything else, and a boy of ten years can turn
them. The rollers are in a frame which can be set over
the vat ; a hopper on top to receive the grapes, completes
the arrangement. ‘The rollers can be either plain or
grooved, as desired, and the whole will cost from $12 to $15.
Small quantities may be mashed with a wooden pestle in
atub. ‘The rollers should be so set as to break the skins
of the berries, but not to crush the seeds or stems.
3d. FERMENTING VAtTS.—These are best made of pop-
lar wood, and may be of any suitable size, with a capacity
of from 100 to 500 gallons. For a larger establishment
I would prefer them about 5 feet diameter by 5 feet high,
and somewhat narrower at the top than at bottom. They
should be well hooped and strong, made of 1’/,-inch lum-
ber, and worked smoothly inside, so that they can be
easily cleaned, with a spigot hole near the botton to draw
off the must. Their probable cost is about five to six
cents per gallon.
Ath. CAsks.—These are wanted, of course, of all di-
mensions. Large casks save room, and are proportionally
cheaper; fermentation progresses rapidly in them, but it
takes longer for the wine to fine and clear after fermen-
tation is over, than in small casks. They should be of
good, well seasoned white oak wood; if steamed before
using, so that the tannin is drawn out, so much the
better. Larger casks should also have a so-called ‘‘man-
hole,” so that a man or boy can slip in and thoroughly
clean them when used. I do not advise larger casks than
500 gallons, as it takes too long to fill them, and they are,
200 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
therefore, unhandy, except for very large establishments.
These are about 5 feet long by 5 feet diameter, and should
es be placed on strong beams
WW
\) :
S== gy
~ rr Z
et | Ns
|
= a A\ 2
Fig. 28.—wooDEN FUNNEL.
in the cellar, about 18 inch-
es above the floor and 15 to
) ~ 18 inches from the wall, so
» as to enable you to examine
/ ) them at any time and clean
YN them of mould or cobwebs.
‘ Their cost at present is
about 7 cents per gallon.
Imported Rhenish wine
casks, holding from 80 to
160 gallons each, are also very good if they have not been
allowed to sour or become mouldy, but, of course, they
take up more room in proportion than
do large casks.
dth. A SrRonG WooDEN FUNNEL.—
This is oblong, with a copper pipe in
the bottom, and has two short wooden
legs, so that it will set firmly on the
cask. Any good cooper can make one.
See figure 28.
6th. T'uBs To BE USED IN PRESSING.
—Any good pine or cedar tubs will do
for the purpose. Also clean tin or
wooden pails should be provided in
abundance.
wth. A SAcCCHAROMETER OR Must
ScALE.—This is important and you
can not do without, as they are the
only sure guides as to quality of the
must, and you can not make wine ra-
tionally or with certainty of success,
ay oa
AUN
BS Y, ==
ul
ull!
Fig, 29.
unless you know what amount of sugar and acid the
must contains. Oechsle’s is the one most commonly
AND WINE MAKING. 201
used, and can be had in any optical establishment. They
are made of glass, platina, or silver, at prices ranging
from $3 to $10, |
Figure 29 shows must scale (silver) and test tube. With
the scale you should also have a long glass, or tin tube
made for the purpose of holding the must while testing it.
AN ACIDIMETER.—The one invented and patented by
_ Henry Twitchell is simple, and can be used with accuracy
Fig. 80.—ACIDIMETER.
:
by beginners. It is a timely invention, as it took long
practice to work correctly with either Otto’s or Geissler’s.
It is accompanied with full directions for its use. Fig-
ure £0 gives an illustration of the Acidimeter.
202 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
GATHERING THE GRAPES.
Having our cellar built, and stocked with the necessary
implements, we can now proceed to gather the grapes.
The proper time to do this depends very much upon
the varieties. The estivalis, and most of the cordifolia
class, in short, all grapes which have an agreeable flavor—
one which we wish to have in its fullest development in
the must or wine—we ought to have thoroughly ripe.
The riper the grapes, the more fully will their peculiar
flavor be developed, the less acid and the more sugar will
they contain. We must, therefore, learn the nature of
our grapes before we know when to gather them. In the va-
rieties of Labrusca, at least in most of them, their peculiar
flavor is not desirable m its highest development, and is
generally characterized as ‘‘foxy.” A good many of
them also, for instance, Concord and Martha, do not
contain the proper amount of acid when fully ripe, to
bear the necessary dilution of this strong, foxy taste, and
as they must be ‘‘Gallized” at any rate, to be palatable, it
is not advisable to let them get over ripe. I would advise,
therefore, to take these, and, in short, all the varieties
with a strong, foxy, and disagreeable aroma, when fully
colored, and let those varieties with an agreeable aroma
hang long, in order to obtain their flavor in its full
perfection and delicacy ; and also to develop the greatest
amount of sugar and diminish the acid. The best evi-
dences of a grape being thoroughly ripe are: 1st. The
stem turns brown and begins to shrivel. 2d. The berry
begins to shrivel around the stem. 3d. The skin is thin
and transparent. 4th. The juice becomes very sweet,
and adheres to the fingers like honey or molasses.
It is often advisable to gather twice, as many bunches will
ripen later than others. If the ripest are gathered first, the
remainder will ripen quicker, and a uniform product can
thus be obtained. The first implements needed for the
7 ee
_ short a stem as possible, as the
AND WINE MAKING. 203
gathering are clean wooden or tin pails, and sharp knives,
or better still, the small shears spoken of in a former
part of this work. Hach gatherer is provided with a pail,
or two may go together, having a pail each, so that one
can empty and the other keep filling. If there are a good
many unripe berries on the bunches, these may be put
into a separate pail, and also all that are soft, as they
will make an inferior wine. The bunch 1s cut with as
stems contain a great deal of
acid and tannin ; every unripe, @
dry, or decayed berry is to be \K\l
picked out, so that none but per-
fectly sound,ripe berries remain.
We also need a carrying vat,
to carry the grapes to the mill
or wagon, if the vineyard is any
distance from the cellar. This
is made of half-inch pine lum-
ber 3 feet high, 10 inches wide
at bottom, 20 inches at top,
being flat on one side, where it
comes against the back; it is
bound with thin iron hoops. It
is carried by two leather straps
running over the shoulders, as shown in figure 31, and
will contain about 8 or 10 pails, or 2 to 2'/, bushels
of grapes. The carrier can easily take it through the
, rows and lean it against a post until filled, and then carry
‘the grapes directly to the press room, if close by, if too
far, place tubs or vats on the wagon, into which the
grapes may be emptied. The utmost cleanliness should |
be observed in all the apparatus, and no tub, vat, or pail
should be used which is in the least mouldy, as the must
will at once acquire any foreign taste. Everything should
be perfectly clean and sweet, and a strict supervision
Fig. 31.—CARRYING VAT.
204 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
kept up, that the laborers do not drop crumbs of bread,
etc., among the grapes, as these will cause acetous fermen-
tation. The weather should be dry and fair, and the
grapes dry when gathered.
MAKING THE WINE,
The apparatus being all ready, we can commence opera-
tions, and here we must know, first and foremost, what
kind of wine we intend to make, whether light-colored
and smooth, or dark-colored and astringent. ‘The char-
acter of the wine depends chiefly on its fermentation on
the husks, although of course we cannot make an entirely
white wine out of a grape with very dark juice, nor a red
wine, except by artificial coloring, out of a white grape,
or one with very light-colored juice. The general rule
is, however, that fermentation draws acid, tannin, color,
and flavor out of the skins and stems, so that if we desire
to develop the greatest amount of these, we must let the
must remain longer on the husks ; if, on the contrary,
we desire a mild, smooth wine, it should not ferment long
on the husks. Many of the red wines of Europe are left
on the husks for several months, and the wine is drawn
from them when it is about finished.
To make white, or light-colored, smooth wine, the
grapes which were gathered and mashed during the day
can be pressed and put into the cask during the following
night. The mill is placed above the fermenting vat,
and the grapes are mashed as soon as they are carried in,
or hauled to the press house. The vat is covered with a
cloth during the day. If the season has been good, and
you have a perfect grape to deal with, such a one as has
all the ingredients of a good wine in the proper propor-
tions, it a make good wine without any other addition.
If not, sugar, or sugar and water, must be added, but I
will speak of this in a separate chapter. With the Con-
cord grape, many make both a white andared wine. The
AND WINE MAKING. 205
white is made by simply pressing very lightly as soon as
the grapes are mashed, so as to drain off the first run of
the juice before it has acquired any color from the skins.
Tze husks are then thrown into the fermenting vat,
water and sugar added, and fermented several days; then
pressed, and thus ared wine is produced. I must say that
I prefer the wine gained by fermenting, say 24 hours,
in a temperature of 65° to 80° on the husks, and all
pressed together. It generally contains all the ingredi-
ents in better proportions, while the white wine seldom
has the due proportion of acid and tannin, and the red
generally has an excess of acid, tannin, and flavor. Of
course the temperature has a great influence on fermen-
tation, as in warm weather it progresses much more
rapidly, and the pressing should be done sooner than in
cool weather. It is entirely optional with the wine-mak-
er what kind of wine he produces ; he can make it to suit
himself, and soon learns how to do it. The longer he
ferments his must, the more astringent and rough his
wine will be; and the sooner and lighter he presses, the
less character will the wine acquire, though it will be
much more delicate and smooth.
Before filling the casks they should be well prepared.
They should be perfectly clean and sweet without the
slightest mouldiness. If new, they should be steamed, or
filled with pure water, and allowed to soak for several
days, then emptied, and scalded with two or three gallons
of boiling wine. This quantity is for a cask of say 500
gallons. Or, if this is not convenient, put in, say a peck
of unslaked lime, and about five gallons of water,:then
put in the bung and turn the cask about, so that all parts
of it are touched by the mixture. Then pour out the
lime water, and wash with water, then rinse with a de-
coction of vine leaves, or warm wine, or better still, pour
in a pint of pure alcohol or grape brandy, and light
it by a match. The fumes of the burning brandy
206 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
will penetrate the wood, and make you secure against
any taint in the wine. But do not bung the cask
while the brandy is burning, or you may have an ex-
plosion before you know it. The same may be done
with mouldy casks, to make them fresh and _ service-
able again.
The casks can then be filled with the must, either
completely, if it is intended that the must should fer-
ment above, as it is called, or under, when the cask is
not completely filled, so that the husks, scums, etc.,
which the must will throw to the surface during fer-
mentation, will remain in the cask. Both methods
have their advantages, but after long practice, I now
follow the latter, leaving empty space enough until rapid
fermentation is over, so that all remains in the cask. As
long as fermentation lasts, and the gas escapes, all goes
right, and a few vine leaves over the bung-hole, on which
a small sack of sand is laid, are sufficient to close it. Of
course it must be closely watched, and the bung closed
as soon as fermentation ceases, when the casks must be
filled with wine kept for that purpose in a separate
cask. If, during fermentation, cool weather should set 1n,
and the temperature fall below 60°, the fermenting cel-
lar should be warmed by a stove. But this will rarely
be the case, as the vintage should be over before cold
weather sets in.
When violent fermentation has ceased, and the must
has become quiet, the cask should be closed with a tight
bung of white oak or poplar wood. ‘'l’o make dark-red
wine, the treatment differs, as it is the object, as before
remarked, to get a wine of the darkest color, highest
flavor, and of a certain astringency, which it will only
attain by fermenting on the husks. The must is, in that
case, allowed to ferment on the husks for from three to
six days, when the husks which rise to the surface should
often be pressed down and stirred through the must, to
AND WINE MAKING. 2074
prevent their souring. The must is then drawn off below,
by a faucet, and the husks pressed. If it is desired to make
only a dark-colored wine, without so much astringency,
and of great body, the grapes are allowed to hang until
they are very ripe, even shrivelled ; and stemmed, as the
stems contain a large amount of acid and tannin, and
give the wine a rough and bitter taste. In this manner
the celebrated red wines of Burgundy, and the best
brands of France and Germany, are made. Many of them
are even allowed to go through the whole process of fer-
mentation before pressing, and the husks are filled into
the cask with the must, through a doorabove, and remain
there until the clear wine is drawn off. This is gener-
ally not desirable here, however, as our red grapes con-
tain sufficient astringency and color without this process.
After the wine has become quiet it is looked after fre-
quently, and the casks filled to the bung. As there
is more or less evaporation, this should be done every two
or three weeks, always using wine of the same or similar
character. In two to three months the wine ought to be
clear and bright, and should then be racked, 7. ¢., drawn
from the lees by means of a faucet, and put into clean,
sweet casks. It is very important here, again, that the
casks into which it is drawn, are sweet and clean, or
“‘ wine green.” For must, fresh brandy or whiskey casks
may be used ; but after the wine has fermented, it will
not do to use such, as the wine acquires the smell and
taste of the hquor. When a cask has been emptied, it
should be carefully cleaned, as before described, by en-
tering at the door or man-hole, or, with smaller casks, by
taking out the head, as the lees are very adhesive, and
will not wash out readily, but should be brushed off.
After it is thoroughly cleansed it may be fumigated
slightly, by burning a small piece of sulphured paper, or
a nutmeg in it, and then filled. To keep empty casks in
good condition, they should, after cleaning, be allowed
208 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
to become thoroughly dry, when they are sulphured,
closed tightly, and laid away in the cellar. The sulphur-
ing should be repeated every six weeks. When wanted
for use, they are rinsed with cold water.
For racking the wine we should have: ist. A large,
brass or wooden faucet. 2d. Pails of a peculiar shape,
narrow at the top, to prevent wastage. 3d. A wooden
funnel, as described before, to hold about six gallons.
In racking, first loosen the bung of the cask. Then,
after loosening the wooden peg, and closing the tap hole,
let your assistant hold the pail opposite the hole. You
hold the faucet with your right hand, and with the left
withdraw the plug, inserting the faucet quickly ; drive it
in firmly and you are ready for the work.
Do not fully open the faucet at first, because the first
pailful is generally not quite clear, and should run
slowly. This, and the last from the lees, are generally
put into a cask together, and allowed to settle, when, in
a few weeks, it will become clear, and make a good wine.
As soon as the wine runs clear and limpid, it can be put
into the cask, and you can let it run as fast as the faucet
will allow, opening it to its fullest capacity. When the
wine has run off down to the tap hole, the cask may be
carefully raised at the other end, one inserting a piece of
board or a brick under it, while the other lifts slowly and
gently. This may be repeated several times, as long as
the wine runs clear, and when it becomes slightly cloudy,
keep the cloudy wine to put with what ran out first. As
soon as it becomes thick and muddy it is time to stop.
The door is then taken out of the cask and the lees
emptied out. They will, if distilled, make a fine flavored
and strong brandy. If your cellar is built accordmg to
the plan already given, you can attach a hose to the faucet
and run your wine from the fermenting cellar into the
cellar and casks below, which is a great saving of time
and wastage. ‘The must can also be run from the press-
AND WINE MAKING. 209
room into the casks in the fermenting cellar in the same
manner. ;
We should keep in mind, in all operations, the kind of
wine we intend to make. In white and light-colored
wines, we desire delicacy of bouquet and smoothness of
taste ; in red wines for medicinal or stomachic use, we de-
sire astringency, body, and a decided and characteristic
flavor. White and light-colored wines should, therefore,
be racked as soon as they are clear, while red wines may
remain longer on the lees. Both can be modified, by
treatment, to meet the peculiar taste ; a red wine may be
made smoother, and a white wine more astringent, by
longer or shorter fermentation on the husks and lees. We
can thus conform to the taste of the consumer. If the
prevailing taste is for light-colored, smooth and delicate
wines, we can make them so, by pressing soon, and rack-
ing soon and frequently. If a dark-colored, astringent
wine is desired, we can ferment on the husks, and leave
it on the lees a longer period. There is a medium course
in this, as in all things, and the intelligent wine-maker
will soon find the rules which should guide him, and
with a little practice discover the method which will give
him the best results with a certain variety.
Among the varieties suited for white wines, and which
should be treated as such, I will name the Elvira, Goethe,
Herbemont, Martha, Massasoit, Uhland, Catawba, Dela-
ware, and Taylor, and among the varieties for dark-red
wines, Cynthiana, Norton’s Virginia, Lenoir, Alvey,
Clinton, and Ives’ Seedling. The Concord can be used
for both, or can be made light-red. For Sherry wine, use
the Hermann, Rulander, and Cunningham. ‘These latter
require a sort of medium treatment; it is desirable to
develop their peculiar flavor ; it is not desirable to have
them astringent or dark-colored. Fermenting on the
husks 24 to 36 hours, in a temperature of 60° to 70°, will
be about right for them. It is very important that the
210 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
temperature snould not vary much during fermenta:-
tion, and that the first fermentation on the husks, and
for the first week foilowing, should be rapid and unin-
terrupted. Ii the wine goes into the next summer fully
fermented and finished, clear and limpid, there is little
danger of its becoming cloudy and diseased afterwards,
even if it must be kept in a changeable temperature.
AFTER TREATMENT OF THE WINE.
Even if the wine was perfectly clear when drawn off,
in February and March, when it should be racked for the
second time, it will go through a second fermentation,
however slight this may be, as soon as warm weather
sets in, sayin June and July. ‘The clearer and better
developed the wine was when last racked, the slighter
this will be, for only the lees yet remaining in it which
the young wine has not entirely deposited will act as the
ferment. Itis not safe or judicious, therefore, to bottle
the wine before this second fermentation is over. As
soon as the wine has become perfectly quiet and clear.
again, generally about September, it can be bottled, or
sold by the cask. For bottling wine we need: Ist.
Clean bottles. 2d. Good corks, which must be scalded
with hot water first, to draw out all impurities, and
soften them, and then be soaked in cold water. 3d. A
small funnel. 4th. A small faucet. 5th. A light,
wooden mallet to drive in the corks.
After the faucet has been inserted in the cask, fill your
- bottles so that there will be about an inch of room be-
tween the cork and the wine. Let them stand a few
minutes before you drive in the cork, which should be of
full size, and made to fit by compressing at one end.
Then drive in the cork with the mallet, and lay the
bottles, either in sand on the cellar floor, or on a rack
made for that purpose. ‘They should be so laid that the
wine covers the cork, to exclude all air. The greater bulk
AND WINE MAKING. ALL
of the wine, however, can safely be sold now, or kept in
casks. All the wine to be kept should be racked once
about every six months, and the casks kept well filled.
DISEASES OF WINE AND THEIR REMEDIES.
Wine properly made, and with all ingredients in right
proportion, will seldom suffer from any disease. Cases
may arise, however, which may make it necessary to give
it a different treatment, or fine it by artificial means.
TREATMENT OF FLAT AND TURBID WINE.
The cause of flat wine is generally lack of tannin. Ifthe
wine has a peculiar flat, soft taste, and looks cloudy, this
is uniformly the case. Draw the wine into another cask,
which has been well sulphured, and add some pulverized
tannin, which can be had at any drug store. The tan-
nin may be dissolved either in water or wine, about an
ounce to every two hundred gallons of wine, and poured
in at the bung, after which the wine should be well
stirred with a stick inserted through the bung-hole.
Should it not become clear in abcut three weeks, it must
be fined. This can be done by adding about an ounce of
powdered gum arabic, or isinglass, to each forty gallons.
The gum arabic will dissolve in cold water, but isinglass
- requires hot water ; stir the wine well when it has been
poured in. Or take some wine out of the cask, and, for
each forty gallons of wine, add the whites of ten eggs,
whipped to foam with the wine taken out; pour this
mixture into the cask, stir well, and bung tightly.
After a week the wine will generally be clear, and should
then be drawn off. An easier and speedier method to fine
is to put it through a filter filled with paper pulp, but
the apparatus is somewhat costly. As it is accompanied
by directions for use to those who purchase it, it would
be superfluous to describe it here. As stated before, if
the wine has been properly made and fermented, such
212 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
procedures will seldom be necessary, and the wine will be
sound and clear without any artificial means. The ob-
servant and rational wine-maker will seldom be troubled
by any mishaps, and his wines will be palatable and
bright without any such treatment.
USES OF THE HUSKS AND LEES.
These can be distilled, and will make a very strong, fine
flavored brandy. The husks are stamped down into
empty barrels or vats, as close as possible, with a cover of
clay made over them, to exclude the air. They will then
undergo a fermentation and be ready for distilling in
about a month. They should be taken fresh from the
press, for if they remain exposed to the air they become
mouldy. ‘The lees can be distilled immediately. Good
fresh lees or husks from rather astringent wines or
grapes, are also an excellent remedy when the wine be-
comes flat, as described before. If such wine is ferment-
ed on the husks again for a day or two, it will generally
become sound and bright.
AND WINE MAKING. 213
CHAPTER XLVI.
DR. GALL’S AND PETIOL’S METHODS OF WINE MAKING.
So far, I have only spoken of the handling of the raw
product of Nature, taking for granted that we had a fair
must in good condition to work with. But this un-
fortunately is rarely the case, and the natural juice of
the grape seldom contains all the elementary constituents
of a good wine in the proper proportions. In fact, very
many of our American varieties are very imperfect even
in the best seasons, and contain generally a superabund-
ance of acid and flavoring matter or aroma. What then
is the intelligent operator to do? Shall he use them as
they are, although he is aware they are imperfect, and
produce a poor, undrinkable, unsalable, and even un-
healthful article? Or shall he, with the reason and
knowledge God has given him, seek to remedy Nature’s
imperfections, dilute the acid and aroma, add sugar, if
necessary, and thus make a salable, pleasant, and
_ healthful beverage ? I think the intelligent wine-makers
—and it is only for them I am writing, can not hesitate
which course to take.
I am aware that I am treading on dangerous ground,
that I have been severely censured for my advocacy of
Dr. Gall in my former little book, but truth remains
truth, whether assailed or not, and the laws of chemistry
will not change to please any of the ‘* Simon Pure Natur-
alists,” who rail against Gallizing, because they do not
know anything about its true principles. But let me
put myself right before my readers, before entering upon
the details of the operation. I advocate Gallizing only so
214 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
far as it is the best means of improving otherwise imper-
fect must, not as an indiscriminate means of increas-
ing the quantity at the expense of quality. Only so far
as by the additio: of water and sugar, an imperfect must
can be made the most perfect, is Gallizing not only justi-
fiable, but a necessity. As soon as it aims only at in-
creasing the quantity without regard to quality, it is rep-
rehensible, and should be frowned down. ‘This may be
called gallonizing, not Gallizing ; and that these gallon-
izers have done a great deal of mischief by bringing their
trash before the public, and calling it wine, can not be
denied. But those who, from a mistaken idea that a
wine to be good and healthful, must be natural, as they
call it, have made it as Nature gave it, and have, there-
fore, disgusted the palates of refined wine connoisseurs by
their pure, but weak, foxy, and acid Concords, and Ives,
etc., thus doing even more to bring American wines into
discredit than the gallonizers. Both of these, the natural
wine-makers and the gallonizers, have been the curse and
bane of our wine markets ; those who, in the inno-
cent belief that they were tasting fair samples of Ameri-
can wines, swallowed their compounds and were disgusted,
and when they met with good productions, were de-
terred from tasting again. The true course lies in
the middle, as usual. The wine-maker has certain un-
erring guides, which teach him, with a little practice
and experimenting, ‘‘thus far shalt thou go, but no
farther.”
Having thus defined what we intend to do, which is
simply to improve our must, if deficient, let us, to see
our way Clearly before us, examine as to the consti-
tuent parts of must or grape juice. A chemical analysis
of must shows the following result :
Grape juice contains water, sugar, free acids, tannin,
gummy and mucous substances or gluten, coloring mat-
ter, fragrant, or flayoring substances (aroma, bouquet). —
AND WINE MAKING. 215
A good or normal must should contain all these ingredi-
ents in due proportion. If there is an excess of one, and
a lack of the other, it can not make a perfect wine.
This would seem apparent to every reasoning wine maker.
Must which contains all of these in exactly the right pro-
_ portion we call a perfect or normal must; and only by
determining the amount of each of the ingredients in ~
this so-called normal must, can we gain the knowledge
that will enable us to improve must which has not
the necessary proportion of each. ‘The frequency of
unfavorable seasons in Hurope, set intelligent men to
thinking ; their grapes were sadly deficient in sugar, did
not ripen fully, and also lacked in flavor. How then
could this defect be remedied, and a grape crop which
was almost worthless from its want of sugar and excess
of acids, be made to yield at least a fair article, instead
of the sour and unsalable wine generally produced in
such seasons? Among the foremost who experimented
with this object in view “I will here mention Chaptal,
Petiol, but especially Dr. Ludwig Gall, who has at last
reduced the whole science of wine making to such a
mathematical certainty, that we are amazed that so
simple a process should not have been discovered long
ago. It is the old story of the egg of Columbus, but the
poor wine-makers of Germany and France, and we in
this country also, are none the less indebted to those in-
telligent and persevering men for the incalculable benefits
they have conferred upon us.
The production of good wine is thus reduced to a
science; though we cannot, perhaps, in a bad season,
produce as high flavored and delicate wines as in the
best years, we can now always make a fair article, by
following the simple rules laid down by Dr. Gall.
Nay, as most of our grapes, in a good season, contain
flavor in excess, we can often make fully as palatable
Wine in a poor season, when that flavor is not so fully
216 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
developed, by merely adding water and sugar to dilute the
acid. In this respect we can make a more uniform pro-
duct from our strongly flavored varieties, than the Euro-
peans can from their delicately flavored varieties of vini-
fera, which are deficient in flavor in bad seasons.
When this method was first introduced, it was calumni-
ated and despised, called adulteration of wine, and even
prohibited by the governments of Europe, but Dr. Gall
fearlessly challenged his opponents to have his wines.
analyzed by the most eminent chemists. ‘This was re-
peatedly done, and the results showed that they could find
nothing but such ingredients as pure wine should con-
tain; and since men like.Von Babo, Dobereiner, and
others, have openly endorsed and recommended Gallizing,
prejudice is giving way before the light of scientific
knowledge. The same will be the case here. Intelligent
men will see that there is nothing reprehensible in the
practice, and the public will, in time, prefer the properly
Gallized, and, therefore, more palatable and more health-
ful wines, to the foxy and acid productions of the stick-
lers for natural wines.
To determine the amount of sugar and acids in the
must, we need a few necessary implements. The first is
the must scale, or Saccharometer, already mentioned in
the necessary implements for wine making (see fig. 29.)
The most suitable one now in use is Oechsle’s Must Scale,
constructed on the principle that the instrument sinks
the deeper into any fluid the thinner it is, or the less
sugar it contains. It is generally made of silver, or
German silver, although it is also made of glass. A
represents a hollow cylinder, best made of glass, filled with
must to the brim, into which place the must scale, B.
This is composed of the hollow float, a, which keeps it
suspended in the fluid ; of the weight, 0, for holding it in
a perpendicular position, and the scale, divided by small
lines into from 50° to 100°. Before the scale is placed
AND WINE MAKING. pak
in the must, draw it several times through the mouth to
moisten it, but allow no saliva to adhere to it. When
the scale ceases to descend, note the degree to which
it has sunk, after which, press it down with the finger a
few degrees further, and on its standing still again, the
line to which the must reaches, indicates its so-called
weight, expressed by degrees. ‘The must should have a
temperature of 65° to 70°, be weighed in an entirely fresh
state, before it shows any sign of fermentation, and should
be free from husks; if strained through a piece of
mosquito bar, or small sieve all the better.
This instrument, which is indispensable to every one
who intends to make wine rationally, can now be had
from prominent opticians in nearly every large town. It
indicates the amount of sugar in the must, and its use is
so simple, that every one can soon become familiar with
it. The next step in the improvement of must was to
determine the amount of acids it contained, and this
problem has also been successfully solved by the inven-
tion of the Acidimeter.
As remarked before, Twitchell’s Acidimeter is the best
now in use, and as it is accompanied by full directions
for use, I need not repeat them here, further than to say
_ that to ascertain the acidity of must, it should be tested
when pressed, as many of our pulpy grapes contain
nearly all their acid in the pulp, and the instrument
will, therefore, not give a fair indication until fermenta-
tion has drawn out the acid.
A normal must, to suit the prevailing taste here, should
contain about four-thousandths parts of acids, while in
Kurope it varies from four and a half to seven-thousandths,
as the taste there is generally in favor of more acid
wines. I cannot do better here than quote from Dr.
Gall, who gives the following directions as a guide to
distinguish and determine the proportion of acids’ which
10
218 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
a must should contain to be still agreeable to the palate,
and good :
‘* Chemists distinguish the acids contained in the grape
as the vinous, malic, grape, citric, tannic, gelatinous,
and para-citric acids. Whether all of these are contained
in the must, or which of them, is of small moment for
us to know. For the practical wine-maker it is sufficient
to know, with full certainty, that, as the grape ripens,
while the proportion of sugar increases, the quantity of
acids continually diminishes, and hence, by leaving the
grapes on the vines as long as possible, we have a double
means of improving their products, the must or wine.
** All wines, without exception, to be of good and
agreeable taste, must contain from four and a half to seven-
thousandths part of free acids, and each must containing
more than seven-thousandths part of free acids may be
considered as having too little water and sugar in propor-
tion to its acids.
“In all the wine-growing countries of Europe, for a
number of years past, experience has proved that a cor-
responding addition of sugar and water is the means of
converting the sourest must, not only into a good drink-
able wine, but also into as good a wine as can be produced
in favorable years, except in that peculiar and delicate
aroma found only in the must of well-ripened grapes,
and which must, and will, always distinguish the wines
made in the best seasons from those made in poor
seasons.
“The Saccharometer and Acidimeter, properly used,
will give us the exact knowledge of what the must con-
tains and what it lacks, and we have the means at hand,
by adding water, to reduce the acids to their proper pro-
portions, and by adding sugar, to increase the amount of
sugar the must should contain ; in other words, we can
change the poor must of indifferent seasons into the nor-
mal must of the best seasons in everything, except its
AND WINE MAKING. 219
bouquet or aroma, thereby converting an unwholesome and
disagreeable drink into an agreeable and healthful one.”
THE CHANGE OF THE MUST INTO WINE.
Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful,
simple, and yet so complicated process, to give a clearer
insight into the functions which man has to perform to
assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the
desired end. I cannot do better than to quote again from
Dr. Gall. He says: ‘To form a correct opinion of
what may, and can, be done, in the manufacture of wine,
we must be thoroughly convinced that Nature, in her
operations, has other objects in view than merely to
serve man as his careful cook and butler. Had the high-
est object of the Creator, in the creation of the grape,
been simply to combine in the juice of the fruit nothing
but what is indispensable to the formation of the delicious
beverage for the accommodation of man, it might have
been still easier done for him by at once filling the ber-
ries with wine already made. But in the production of
fruits, the first object of all is to provide for the propaga-
tion and preservation of the species. Each fruit con-
tains the germ of a new plant, and a quantity of nu-
tritious matter surrounding and developing that germ.
The general belief is that this nutritious matter, and even
the peculiar combination in which it is found in the fruit,
has been made directly for the immediate use of man.
This, however, is a mistake. The nutritious matter of
the grape, as in the apple, pear, or any similar product,
is designed by Nature only to serve as the first nourish-
ment of the future plant, the germ of which lies in it.
There are thousand of fruits of no use whatever, and even
noxious to man, and there are thousands more, which,
before they can be used, must be divested of certain
parts, necessary, indeed, to the nutrition of the future
220 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING.
plant, but unfit, in their present state, for the use or
nourishment of man. For instance, barley contains
starch, mucilaginous sugar, gum, adhesive matter, vege-
table albumen, phosphate of lime, oil, fibre, and water.
All these are necessary for the formation of roots, stalks,
leaves, flowers, and the new grain; but for the manufac-
ture of beer, the brewer needs only the first three sub-
stances. ‘The same rule applies to the grape.
‘‘In this use of the grape, all depends upon the judg-
ment of man to select such of its parts as he wishes, and
by his skill he adapts and applies them in the manner
best for his purposes. In eating the grape he throws
away the skins and seeds; for raisins, he evaporates the
water, retaining only the solid parts, from which, when
he uses them, he rejects the seeds. If he manufactures
must he lets the skins remain. In making wine he sets
free the carbonic acid contained in the must, and re-
moves the lees, gum, tartar, and, in short, everything
deposited during and immediately after fermentation, as
well as when it is put into casks and bottles. He not
only removes from the wine its sediments, but watches
the fermentation and checks it as soon as vinous fer-
mentation is over, and the formation of vinegar about to
begin. He refines his wine by an addition of foreign sub-
stances; if necessary, he sulphurizes it, and, by one means
or another, remedies its diseases.
‘The manufacture of wine is thus a many-sided art,
and he who does not understand it, or knows not how to
guide and direct the powers of Nature to his own pur-
poses, may as well give up all hopes of success in it.”
So far Dr. Gall; and to the intelligent and unbiased
mind, the truth and force of these remarks will be appar-
ent. How absurd then are the blind ravings of those
who speak of ‘‘natural” wines, and condemn as adul-
teration and fraud every addition of sugar and water to
the must by man, in seasons when Nature has not fully
AND WINE MAKING. 221
done her part. There is no such thing as “ natural
wine,” for wine, especially good wine, is the product of
art, and an artificial process from beginning to end. An
all-wise Creator gave us the raw materials for our suste-
nance and convenience, but gave us also reasoning powers
to convert them to our use, and make them more whole-
some and palatable. Shall we eat the raw potato simply
because it is a natural production, or are we justified in
cooking and roasting it, to make it more palatable and
wholesome ? How would the ‘‘ naturalist ” stare if some
fine morning his good wife would set a cup filled with
raw coffee beans and some water before him, instead of
his usual fragrant beverage, and a dish of raw wheat in-
stead of the usual light rolls which tempt his appetite ?
Yet the making of coffee and bread are even less natural,
more artificial, than the addition of sugar and water to
the must. Would not the wine-maker act as foolishly as
the housewife who puts raw coffee and wheat upon the
table, instead of the fragrant cup and white roll, if he
has it in his power to remedy the deficiencies of Nature
by such means as she herself supplies in good seasons,
and which ought, and would be in the must, but for un-
favorable circumstances over which we have no control ?
Wine thus improved is just as pure as if the water and
sugar had naturally been in the grapes in the right pro-
portions, just as beneficial to health, and only the fanati-
cal numskull can call it adulterated. But these preju-
dices will disappear before the light of science and truth,
and have disappeared already, until there 1s not a single
establishment of any consequence, either here or in
Kurope, where it is not followed, either secretly or open-
ly, and to the manifest improvement of their wines.
Yet, strange to say, these same “naturalists” will
enjoy sparkling wines with a great deal of gusto, although
they are a still more artificial product. And many of
them will smack their lips over some rare so-called, ‘‘ Old
222 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Port,” which has never seen a grape, but is some skillful
concoction of logwood, spices, tartaric acid, syrup, alco-
hol, and tannin. ‘Oh, consistency, thou art a jewel !”
Let us now observe the change which fermentation
makes in converting the must into wine. The nitro-
genous compounds—vegetable albumen, gluten—(which
are contained in the grape, and which are dissolved in
the must as completely as the sugar), under certain cir-
cumstances turn into the fermenting principle, and so
change the must into wine. ‘This change is brought
about by the fermenting substance coming in contact
with the air, and receiving oxygen from it, in conse-
quence of which it coagulates, and shows itself in the
turbid state of must, or young wine. The coagulation
of the lees takes place but gradually, and just in the de-
gree that the exhausted lees settle. The sugar generally
turns into alcohol. The acids remain partly as tartaric
acid, are partly turned into ether, or settle with
the lees, crystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the
cask. The etheric oil or aroma remains, and develops
into bouquet, as does the tannin, to a certain degree. The
albumen and gluten principally settle, although a small
portion of them remains in the wine. The coloring
matter and extractive principle remain, but change some-
what by fermentation.
Thus it is, that must containing a large amount of
sugar, needs a longer time to become clear, while that
containing but a small portion soon becomes clear. Many
southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar undecom-
pozed ; such are called sweet, or liqueur wines, whereas
wines in which the whole of the sugar has been decom-
posed in the fermentation, are called sour or dry wines.
I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give
my readers an insight into the general prmeiples which
should govern us in wine making. I have quoted freely
from the excellent work of Dr. Gall. We will now see
AND WINE MAKING. 223
how we can reduce these principles to practice. I will
illustrate by an example.
NORMAL MUST.
Experiments continued for a number of years have
proved that, in favorable seasons, grape juice contains on
an average in 1,000 pounds :
RE Seda eg ah Wes wart nde s aoaerere oa esis a pounds.
PMS rae el etcm afar fein sip oreo cies oars aie Stee
INIAG Eps earn athe ahel SS jew Sibia Sis ds Peed 7 4 iF
1,000
This proportion would constitute what I call a normal
must. But suppose that in an inferior season the must
contains, instead of the above, as follows:
POE 71a alors) sia bidrwrais sisre) Jurts, 0 cae aAN AIM N os 150 pounds.
aie Sia). oor. oat bee EvSatoeeee
Bera hare Noerrcles aiciote cimleiain @uiaeress ate 841 oe
i ~ 1,000
What should we do to bring such a must to the condi-
tion of anormal must? We calculate thus: If, with 6
ibs. of acids in a normal must, there is 240 lbs. of sugar,
how much is wanted for 9 lbs. of acids? Answer.—360
lbs. Our next problem is: If, with 6 lbs. of acids in a
normal must, 754 Ibs. of water appear, how much water
is required for 9 pounds of acids ? Answer.—1,131 lbs.
As, therefore, the must which we intend to improve by
neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 Ibs. of sugar, 9
Ibs. of acids, and 1,131 Ibs. of water, but contains already
150 lbs. of sugar, 9 Ibs. of acid, and 841 Ibs. of water,
there remain to be added, 210 lbs. of sugar, no acids, and -
290 lbs. of water.
By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 lbs. of must, by
210 lbs. sugar, and 290 lbs. of water, we obtain 1,500 Ibs.
of must, consisting of the same properties as the normal
must, which alten a first class wine.
This is wine making in Europe, according to Dr. Gall’s
224 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
method. Now let us see how we can adapt it to Ameri-
can grapes and wines.
THE MUST OF AMERICAN GRAPES.
If we closely examine the musts of most of our American
grapes, we find that they not only contain an excess of
acids in inferior seasons, but even a greater superabund-
ance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring mat-
ter. There is such an abundance of flavor in many of
them, that, were the quantity doubled by addition of
sugar and water, there would still be an abundance.
With some varieties, such as Concord and Ives, if fer-
mented on the husks, it is so strongly foxy, as to be dis-
agreeable, and as the pulp of them is very tough and
slippery, they can not be pressed clean without fermen-
tation. We must, therefore, not only ameliorate the
acid, but also the flavor and astringency, of which the
tannin contained in the stems is the ‘principal cause.
Therefore, it is even more important to us than to Euro-
pean wine-makers, to gain the knowledge to Gallize our
wines properly. By proper management we can change
must, which would otherwise make a disagreeuble wine,
into one in which everything is in its right proportion,
and which will thus suit a customer to whose fastidious
taste it would otherwise be repugnant. True, our grapes
will ripen better here, so that we can, in most seasons,
produce a wine without a great excess of acids, but the
American taste requires a less acid wine any way, and we
must dilute the aroma to make our wines salable. Here
_ another difficulty presents itself. The riper a grape is, the
more of its peculiar aroma will it develop, and if we
would let our Concords hang until they are so ripe that
the acid has been reduced to the proper proportion, the
aroma becomes so strong that it is very repugnant to a
refined taste. What course remains then for us to take ?
Shall we let our grapes hang until the acid is reduced,
AND WINE MAKING. 225
and make an abominably, foxy wine, which no one will
buy ? Or shall we gather our grapes when well colored,
Gallize the must until the acid and flavor are reduced to
the proper amount, and thus produce a very fair, light-
red wine, palatable to most, and a refreshing and in-
vigorating beverage to all? I think the latter is the best
course, and the only reasonable one.
At that time the must of Concord grapes will gener-
ally weigh about 65° to 70° on Oechsle’s Scale, and the
Acidimeter will indicate about 6°. Now we make our
calculation as follows: A normal must, to suit the
palate here, should indicate about 80°, and show 4° on
the Acidimeter. ‘To reduce the acid to 4° we must add
one-third water, or, in other words, if we have 480 Ibs.
of Concord grapes, which would make 40 gallons
of pure juice, we must add 20-gallons of water.
To these 20 additional gallons of water, we must
add 40 lbs. of the best crushed sugar, to bring the
water up to the ratio of normal must, 80°. But we
have also a discrepancy of 15° in the must if it indicated
65°. To bring this also up to 80° we must add three-
eighths pound of sugar to every gallon of must, or 15 lbs.
to the 40 gallons. The addition to 480 lbs. of grapes
would then be as follows: 20 gallons of water, 55 Ibs. of
sugar, and no acid, making 60 gallons of must of normal
proportions, instead of 40 of pure juice. These will be
about the right proportions for a pleasant and hand-
some wine, of good color, pleasant flavor, and not too
yacid to suit the general taste, with also the proper pro-
‘portion of onan which will be marketable sooner, and
at a much higher price, than if we had allowed the grapes
to hang a mcm longer, and then pressed the natural
must, which would, perhaps, not contain an excess of
acid then, but certainly an excess of foxy flavor and
tannin.
Different grapes will, of course, require different treat-
226 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ment. It is only by experimenting that we can find how
much each variety should be Gallized to produce the
best possible wine. Nor are the grapes alike in all sea-
sons, and one season’s product of the same grape may re-
quire different treatment than the other. ‘To illustrate a
case in point: While experimenting with varieties, I
had, in the summer of 1866, enough of Rulander grapes,
then a new variety, to make 5 gallons of pure juice,
which, when tried by the saccharometer, showed 104°.
This was pressed and put into a 5-gallon cask. The
husks were thrown back into the fermenting vat, and 5
gallons of water, with 15 Ibs. of sugar added, bringing
the water up to 100°, and fermented 48 hours, then
pressed and put into another 5-gallon cask. When press-
ing these my vintner thought that there was too much
flavor and character in the husks left to be thrown away,
and he once more added 5 gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of
sugar, and fermented this three days and three nights,
then pressed, and put into a third 5-gallon cask. The
wines became clear at about the same time, bad nearly
the same color, and when tested by several connoisseurs,
they pronounced all good, but No. 2 the smoothest and
finest wine; No. 1 rather the fullest, but somewhat
more astringent, while No. 3 was but little inferior to
No. 2. This verdict was given without knowing how
the wines had been made. We then mixed the three
wines, equal parts, in a tumbler, and upon testing, found
the mixture a better wine than either was separately.
The three, after this trial, were put together, and made
a wine like very fine Golden Sherry, which took the first
premium as best light-colored wine of any variety, at the
Combined Exhibition of the Longworth Wine House and
the American Grape Growers’ Association, at Cincinnati,
in 1867, in competition with over 30 samples of the finest
Catawbas, Delawares, and Herbemont, as well as numer-
ous other first premiums wherever exhibited. I have
i
AND WINE MAKING. Part
made hundreds of sucli experiments, modifying the treat-
ment with the character of the variety. I know, there-
fore, whereof I speak. Of course the above is an ex-
treme case; but few varieties have so much flavor and
character as the Rulander, and the treatment which pro-
duced so fine a wine from this grape, would have made a
very flat ‘‘ Maxatawney,” a grape which has but little
character. When making such experiments I made it a
rule always to keep some of the pure juice by itself, for
comparison, and the tests were, therefore, made with the
greatest fairness, and with but one aim, that is, to ascer-
tain how the best possible wine could be made from any
variety. Were I to give more of these experiments here,
my readers would, perhaps, be even more astonisned than
I was, at the results ; but facts are stubborn, and can not
be controverted. Seeing, and in this instance, tasting,
is believing, and as I kept a very careful record of all
cellar operations, there could be no mistakes.
I will here quote one of my first experiments made with
very imperfectly ripened Catawba grapes, made in 1865,
when that grape ripened very poorly, on account of mil-
dewandrot. I found, on testing the must, that it would
only show from 52° to 70°, while a normal Catawba must
should weigh at least 80° in good seasons. My calcula-
tions for making the additions which I knew were imper-
atively necessary, were based upon the following reasons :
If normal must weighs 80°, and this averages but 60°,
there is a deficiency of half a pound of sugar to the gal-
lon of must. But there should also be an excess of acid
of at least one-third, as the Catawba has a superabund-
ance of acid in even the most favorable seasons. I must,
therefore, add at least one-third more water to dilute
the acid, and to this water add 2 lbs. of sugar to each
gallon, so that the whole mixture will weigh 80°. I did
so, fermented all on the husks 36 hours, and the result
was a very fine, golden-colored Catawba, which I sold
228 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
before it was six months old, at the highest figures Ca-
tawba wines were then bringing, to the first buyer who
came and tasted it.
As the Catawba constitutes yet, to a great extent, the
product of Eastern and Northern vineyards, it may be
well to give a few more hints to my readers on the man-
agement of Catawba must. ‘This variety contains, as
already mentioned, a very large amount of acids, as well
as a great deal of tannin and flavor. This must be ap-
parent to every one who has ever eaten well-ripened Ca-
tawba grapes. It has besides a very tough and acid
center or pulp, of which every one can convince himself
when eating even the most thoroughly ripened Catawba
erapes. The first taste is delightful, but let him press
the pulp and skins closely and he will find that the after
taste is sourand rough. Of course fermentation extracts
all this, and while the Catawba contains all the ingredi-
ents for a palatable wine, these two are present to a very
great excess, and make the wine sour, astringent, and
unpalatable. What then is necessary ? We must simply
add water and sugar, even in the best vintages, to ameli-
orate this, and much more in inferior seasons, and we
will make better wines than are now in the market and
much more wholesome, than the so-called ‘‘ Sweet Ca-
tawbas,”’ which are villainous compounds of unripe grape
juice, raw spirits, and syrup added after fermentation,
and afford an excuse for the habitual tippler to say that
he drinks only wine, not whiskey. It would be better if
he did take spirits so far as the effects on his system are
concerned, for such mixtures intoxicate nearly as much,
and the deleterious stuff they contain is only glossed
over by the syrup. If Catawba wine is rationally Gall-
ized, it makes a very pleasant, high-flavored wine, and
those who prefer to have it still sweeter, can add sugar
when drinking it, to suit their taste. If this were done,
we would have no need of these ‘‘ Sweet Catawhbas ”
AND WINE MAKING. 229
which now disgrace the wine trade of the country, and
pure, light wine would have a better chance to become
the universal beverage of the people. I do not pretend
to give fixed rules to do this ; even were I competent, the
product varies too much with the locality and the season.
I merely attempt to show the way. Let every one experi-
ment, and note the results, and he will soon see how
far he should go to make the best wine, for he should not
go farther. Let the best product always be his aim, not
quantity.
The Concord, now so generally grown, is another va-
riety which is immensely improved by Gallizing, and, as
before remarked, to make the most palatable wine, should
not be allowed to get too ripe. When the grapes are
fully and evenly colored on the bunch, it is time to
gather it, and I would rather add more sugar, than wait
until it is fully ripe, as then its flavor becomes too strong
and apparent. The same rule may be applied to the
Martha, which is best when fairly ripe, but when over-
ripe loses its sprightliness, and becomes foxy, while its
Wine is, when made in time, fully as good as the best
Catawba. The addition of from one-third to one-half
water and sugar, or in other words, from two-thirds to
one gallon of water and sugar to every 12 lbs. of grapes,
and the whole mixture brought to 80° on Oechsle’s Scale,
fermented about 36 to 48 hours on the husks, in a tem-
perature of 75°, will generally make the most palatable
wine, from most of the Labrusca class and their hybrids.
The Goethe, under the same treatment, will make an ex-
cellent white wine, sprightly and pleasant, with just
enough of its fine Frontignan flavor to make it agreeable.
Those who wish to satisfy themselves, can easily make
the experiment, as I did, cautiously, and step by step.
Let them make a small quantity of pure juice-wine, so-
called, and compare it with wines made at the same
time, of the same grapes, but Gallized more or less, and
230 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
keep a careful record of the operation. This was my
method, and I aimed always at improving the quality ;
so soon as I found the quality diminished, I considered
it time to stop, while so long as the quality improved, I
thought it safe to advance. Consider each variety a
separate subject for experiment, it will not do to trust
to surmises and guess work, nor can any rule be given
that will apply to all varieties alike.
So far I have spoken mostly of the Zadruscas and their
hybrids. When we come to the @stivalis class we have
entirely different material to deal with, and while we may,
and can, by judicious Gallizing, improve some of them, and
make them smoother and more palatable, yet with those
which are used chiefly for medical purposes [as Norton’s
Virginia, which has become a great remedy for dysen-
tery, bowel complaints, and cholera infantum], it will be
better to let the grapes hang until they are dead ripe.
Stem them before crushing, add very little or no water,
and ferment on the husks for a week, or even longer.
Their flavor is not objectionable, and the object here is,
to make an astringent and heavy wine, and develop all
the medicinal qualities which that grape possesses in
such an eminent degree. 'To make simply a good Claret -
from it, of course it can be Gallized, and will make even
a more pleasant wine for every day use. ‘This class,
however, also differs as much in its varieties as the La-
brusca. Ihave already cited an example of the Rulander,
which has a decided Sherry flavor. The Hermann, a
seedling of the Norton’s, is another with a strong Sherry
character, so marked that the pure juice has too strong a
flavor, yet when properly Gallized it makes a delightful
deep-yellow wine, equal to any Golden Sherry, and the
white seedling from it seems to be a still greater improve-
ment, as it is much more delicate and juicy than its
parent. And here let me make a prediction, to which
long years of careful observation have led me, and which
AND WINE MAKING, 201
is shared by all of the prominent grape-growers of the
State, so faras I know. It is this, that the grape-grow-
ers of the State, if they turn their attention chiefly to
the best of the estivalis, the Cynthiana, Norton’s Vir-
ginia, Neosho, and others, which have not been so fully
tried, will, at no distant day, excel the products of the
choicest vineyards of the European Continent, and may
safely challenge the world in the production of the
choicest Burgundies, Clarets, and Sherries, and the
sooner we turn our attention to them the better. Cali-
fornia, and even the Kast, may excel us in the quantity,
and rival us in the quality of white wines, but from all
the information I can obtain, they can not come near to
our red wines, which are even now the equals of the
best wines of Burgundy. This is) our proper field, and
the sooner we concentrate our energies upon it, the better
will it be forus. Theyare, at the same time, Phylloxera-
proof, and we need not fear that they will ‘go back ”
upon us.
In the cordifolia we have still another material. The
‘grapes of this class may be said to occupy a position be-
tween the Labruscas and the estivalis class. Nearly all
contain considerable acid, and an abundance of flavor,
and are much improved by judicious Gallizing; but as
their skin and pulp is tender, they need not be fermented
on the husks for any length of time. Twenty-four hours
of lively fermentation will generally be sufficient for the
Elvira, Taylor, and Clinton. They promise to furnish
us another class of wines, and as they are also Phylloxera-
proof, we may consider these two classes as the founda-
tion of future grape growing. We have but just com-
menced experimenting with this class, but the great
success achieved by Mr. Rommel and others justify the
most sanguine hopes. I was particularly struck with
some wines shown me by Mr. James Ricketts, from sey-
eral Clinton seedlings, foremost among which are the
232 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Bacchus and Ariadne. They show a new class of wines,
light red in color, of great body, and very peculiar flavor.
Should these varieties prove to be adapted to more gen-
eral culture, we may expect some remarkable wines from
them.
Of course these are only general hints, which are cal-
culated to show my wine-making friends the way they
must go, to make palatable and wholesome wines. I
shall not attempt to go into details about varieties, as
even these differ so much in different localities that no
rules for their treatment could be given to apply in all
cases. Nor do I pretend to be perfect, but Iam convinced
more and more every day, how little I yet know, and
how much [I have to learn.
In all my experiments I aimed to come as near the
normal must of the variety I experimented with as possi-
ble, in the specific gravity of the water and must, when
mixed. I have no doubt that we also have much to learn
yet in the judicious mixing of several kinds of grapes.
Experiments in that line have already shown astonishing
results, and the art of blending and cutting wines, so
well understood and practised in the best cellars of Eu-
rope, is yet in its infancy here, but will, no doubt, have
a great influence upon our future products. But this
art can only be based upon a thorough knowledge of the
characteristics of each individual variety, and he who
undertakes the task must bring to it a peculiar talent
and highly developed taste, as well as the nicest discrimi-
nation of the traits of each variety. If our grape growing
and wine making had the experience of several centuries
to look back upon, we could base our operations upon
certain knowledge. Now we are feeling our way. The
pioneers who first made the clearings in our woods,
greatly rejoiced when they could eat the first hoe-cake
from the corn their industry had planted in the wilder-
ness, and still more enjoyed the rolls made of their first
AND WINE MAKING. 233
wheat. Like them are we overjoyed at what we have
achieved, and know that the grape, so lately but the
child of these same forests, is susceptible of as much im-
provement and as great a change, as that which converted
the old time clearing, with its simple log cabin, into the
pleasant homestead with its smiling and tasteful lawn and
orchard, rich with golden fruits. And those who intend
to be the winners in this race, must have the pluck and
perseverance of the old frontier pioneers, hoping always,
even in the most gloomy times, for brighter days, and
never doubting of the end.
Dr. Gall recommended grape sugar as the best to be
used for Gallizing. This is made from potato starch,
but all the samples I have yet tried are ‘not pure enough,
and leave an unpleasant, bitter taste\in the wine. I
have, therefore, used the best and\purest cane sugar,
and as it also dissolves more readily in water, I prefer it,
and have found it to answer every purpose. I have lately
tasted a sugar made from the Minnesota or Karly Amber
cane, which seems to be well adapted to the purpose, and
if the production of its sugar assumes the dimensions
it now promises, we may have an important advantage
over our former method, in a cheaper and _ better
article of sugar. ‘The best cane sugar when dissolved
in water in the proportion of 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon,
will show upon the scale about 80°. In making additions
to Catawba, Goethe, Martha, Elvira, and all the lighter
Wines, it takes about 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon of
water, to produce the weight of normal must of these va-
rieties. For Norton’s Virginia, Cynthiana, Rulander, and
all the heavier wines, it will take, at least, 2*/, lbs. of
sugar to the gallon of water, as their normal must ranges
from 100° to 110°, and sometimes 120°, in the product
of the best seasons.
Asa general rule it may be assumed, however, that
our native grapes, with their strong flavor and abundance
204 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
of tannin and coloring matter, will admit, nay, require,
much more Gallizing than the more delicate and finer
flavored grapes of Europe. How far we can go with each
variety I do not presume to say, and only experience can
safely guide us here. It must be apparent to every one
who is ever so slightly acquainted with wine making, how.
widely different the varieties are in their characteristics
and constituents. JI have tried only to give an out-
line of the necessary operations, as well as the prin-
ciples underlying the science of wine making, have
quoted facts, only so far as I have become familiar with
them through long practice and observation. No one
can be better convinced than Iam, how much we have
yet to learn, and how wide the field that lies before us.
I have been severely censured for the open advocacy of the
method of Dr. Gall, even by those who have practised it as
zealously and not always confined themselves as much to ©
its true limits as I have tried to do. Many of our best
wine-makers think that we should keep the knowledge we
have gained to ourselves, and profit by it in ‘secret, in-
stead of openly facing a prejudice which we know to exist.
But it has always been a deep-seated conviction with me
that knowledge, like God’s sun, should be the common
property of all; that it is a duty every citizen owes to the
community in which he lives, to impart freely what he
may know, to every one. Only thus can we progress in
this fast age, where progress is the watchword. Truth
and justice need never fear the light, they can only gain —
by close investigation.
And here let us look at the probable effects these
methods of improvement are likely to have upon grape
culture, and ask ourselves: Is there anything repre-
hensible in them, any reason why they should not be-
come generally known? I think the answer is easily
found. Gallized wines contain nothing, which fermented
grape juice, in its purest and most perfect condition, does
AND WINE MAKING. 235
not also contain. They are, therefore, as pure as any
grape juice can be, with the consideration in their favor,
that they contain all the ingredients in their proper pro-
portion.
It is a matter of course that careless and slovenly work-
ers have failed, and will continue to fail, in making good
wine by this, or any other method, but this cannot be
used as an argument against it. To make a good article
the peculiarities of each variety must be closely studied,
and we must not think that water and sugar will ac-
compiish everything. Its use should be limited, and be-
comes abuse as soon as it oversteps that limit.
But I will hope that I have contributed my mite to the
fund of universal knowledge, and if this little volume
only aids every farmer in the land, who can grow grapes,
to make a few barrels of pure, light wine for family use,
to take the place of poor whiskey and brandy, now the
bane and curse of so many households, I am more than
repaid for the labor of many a lonely early morning hour
it has cost me. Mine has been an incessantly busy life,
and the time for these scribblings has been stolen mostly
from the ‘‘ small, still hours.” I know of no holidays,
and have often had to force exhausted nature to the
task. ‘This must be my excuse for its many imperfec-
tions. But I flatter myself that I am not entirely mis-
taken, when I think I send it on a temperance mission,
perhaps more true and, therefore, more effective than any
Murphy movement. TI have always looked upon the gen-
eral use of pure, light wine as the best temperance mea-
sure that could be adopted. A glass of wine, used early
in the morning, I have found to be the best preventive
against malaria, and nothing revives the sinking energies
of the worn out laborer better during a hot summer day,
as I know from actual experience. I have known it to
save life in dangerous diseases, and could cite many in-
stances did time and space permit.
236 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Let us all then further the cause of grape-culture.
The laborer by producing fruit, the mechanic by inven-
tions, the scientist by improving our methods, the law-
giver by wise laws in its favor, and all others by using its
products in moderation, as one of the best gifts from the
fountain of all that is good, pure, and beautiful.
CHAPTER XLVII.
WINE MAKING RENDERED EASY.
Perhaps it may have seemed as if I was only writing
for the benefit of those who can follow grape growing and
wine making on a larger scale, with abundant means at
their command, to build commodfous cellars, plant large
vineyards, and hire laborers to do the work. This is not
the case, however. If I have given the outlines of
larger operations it is because our object should always
be to attain perfection in everything ; I have never for a
moment lost sight of the interests of those, who, like
myself, have to commence at the lowest round of the
ladder, who have to make a small beginning, and work
their way up through untold difficulties. There is not
an operation in the vineyard, from the clearing of the
unbroken forest and prairie, to the finishing touch given
to the wine at its last racking, which I have not performed
and am not thoroughly familiar with, and I can, there-
fore, fully sympathize with the poor laborer, who has
nothing but his industrious hands, and an honest in-
tention to succeed.
While it may hardly be advisable now, in these days of
low prices and light demand for wine, to begin grape
growing as a means of support, with the hope of realiz-
ing a handsome income from it in the course of a few
oe
AND WINE MAKING. 207
years, yet there is no reason why every farmer should not
have a small vineyard, grow his own grapes, and make
his barrel or two of wine, or why every owner of a garden
should be without enough grapes for the use of the
family.
Grape-vines of the more common varieties are very cheap
now, and an outlay of $5 to $10 will buy one hundred to
- two hundred vines—enough to makea start with. Plant
these, at any rate, if you cannot do more, and grow your
own vines hereafter to enlarge your vineyard. Wire for
trellis is also very cheap now, and it is not needed the
first year or two. A few hundred vines can be easily
kept inorder before breakfast ; let the children help you,
they can do a great deal of the lighter work, and will
learn to take a delight in it. And when your first crop
of grapes ripens, and you can make a few barrels of wine,
if you have no press or-commodious cellar, you can find a
cider press somewhere, and room in the cellar of one of your
neighbors to store it. One of our most successful wine-
growers commenced his operations with a simple hole in
the ground, dug under his house, and his first wine-press
was merely a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a
lever upon the grapes, with a press bed, also of his own
making. His vineyard and wine cellars are now among
the best in the county, and although he no longer lives
to enjoy it, his family are left in affluent circumstances,
and grape growing alone has made them wealthy. Be-
sides, we have got down to the lowest prices, and as the
prospects for the grape-growers of the Old World, and
even of California, darken on account of the Phylloxera,
our own begin to brighten. We know that we have
something we can depend upon, and feel that better
days will come again for the grape-growers and winc-
makers of the country.
Of course it is not advisable to keep the wine over
summer in an indifferent cellar, but if it is good, as it
238 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ought to be, you can easily dispose of it as soon as clear.
Or you can dispose of your grapes, if you can not or will
not make them into wine, to some neighbor, or market
them yourself. Nearly all of our small country towns
afford a ready market for a small quantity, indeed often
a better one than do the large cities.
Another way to make grape growing and wine making
easy, 1s to form grape and fruit colonies. ‘There are lo-.
cations enough in all the States of the Union, where suit-,
able lands for this purpose can be had cheap. The ad-
vantages of such colonies can be easily seen. . If each one
has a small piece of suitable land (and he does not need a
large tract for this business), they can assist each other in
_ plowing and sub-soiling, and will thus be able to do with
fewer animals, by preparing the soil first for one, then for
the other, the ravages of birds and insects will hardly be
felt, the neighbors can join together in building a cellar,
where all can store their wine, and of which one can take
the management. They can market their product easier,
obtain better prices, and lower rates of transportation to
large cities, than single individuals, and also make a bet-
ter and more uniform product.
There are thousands of acres of land well adapted for
the purpose, in Missouri and other States, which could be
had at very low prices, where the virgin soil waits only the
bidding of intelligent and combined labor, to bring forth
the richest fruits. There is room for thousands—may it
soon be filled with willing hearts and hands to undertake
the task.
If our hopes are not so sanguine, the immediate gains
not as great, as they were fifteen years ago—yet we have a
surer basis to work upon than at that time, and our so-
bered expectations are more apt to be realized, and even
excelled, than then. If weaim at the best products only,
rather than at quantity, we are not so likely to overstock
the market, and the increased prices we obtain will more
AND WINE MAKING. 239
than make up for it. It is much easier to make a start,
labor is cheaper, vines are lower, and all the material we
use, as well as the land, is lower, and it will be safe to
assume that it will not cost half as much to obtain a
start now as then.
We will have to work early and late, however, with
head and hands, for it is not an easy task upon which the
grape-grower enters. It is not the life of a sluggard, nor
the romantic idyl of poetic leisure. But what of that ?
Our task is the production of one of God’s noblest gifts
to man, and we will follow it with hopeful hearts, in the
confidence that He will send His sunshine as well as His
showers, to gladden our hearts and to further our work,
until it is crowned by a rich harvest of purple and golden
clusters, and their juice is changed into ‘‘ Wine that
maketh glad the heart of man.”
240 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER XLVIII.
SPECIES USED FOR STOCKS AND THEIR PREPARATION.
Grape culture in the Golden State differs so essentially
from that in Missouri and the Hast, that practices fol-
lowed there are inadmissible here, or can only be applied
with essential modifications. The innumerable varieties
of Vitis vinifera, or Asiatic grape, form the leading class
of grapes here, and succeed admirably in the moderate
climate and dry summers of California. This makes an
addition to the classification of vines necessary, espe-
cially as other native species have become better known,
and promise to become important factors as stocks, in
their resistance to Phylloxera, to which all the varieties
of V. viniferasuccumb. <A portion of the native species
of the vine are described on page 12 and the following
pages ; what is given here is supplementary to that.
VITIS VIN‘FERA, Linneeus (Asiatic or European grape).
—lLeaves more or less lobed and serrated, smooth and
glossy on the upper side, generally more delicate in tex-
ture than the native American species; the wood more
stocky, and shorter-jointed. The fruit differs so much
in the varieties that it would be useless to attempt a de-
scription here. Its general characteristics are, however,
a thin skin, a greater abundance of juice, and in the
fleshy varieties a crackling texture of the flesh, without
the tough and slimy pulp of the Labrusca.
VITIS RUPESTRIS, Scheele (Bush Grape).—Vine with
very short joints and numerous branches, growing more
like a bush or shrub than a vine, with small, heart-shaped,
shining leaves, smooth on both sides. Berry small, mostly
black (although white varieties have been found), juicy,
without pulp; bunch small, seldom containing more than
a dozen berries. A native of Southern Missouri, Arkan-
AND WINE MAKING. 241
sas, and Texas, where it grows on dry, flinty hillsides,
either supporting itself or climbing over low bushes. It
has very firm, shining, thin roots, and has lately attract-
ed great attention in France as a resistant stock for
grafting. It makes a good, deep-colored wine, but will
hardly afford enough to be profitable as a direct pro-
ducer. Propagates readily from cuttings.
Vitis CALIFORNICA, Bentham (California Grape).—
This is found everywhere throughout the State, along the
ravines and water courses, seldom on dry ground. It is
a strong, vigorous grower, clambering to the tops of
trees and trailing along the ground. Wood smooth,
light-brown, long and thin, but short-jointed; leaves
heart-shaped, downy on both sides, though much more
so on the lower; young shoots and leaves of a peculiar
whitish tinge; tendrils numerous, reddish. Bunch long
and loose; berries small, round, black; roots very numer-
ous and strong, but thick, and soft in texture, with a
tendency to go down perpendicularly. Reports are, con-
flicting about its propagation from cuttings ; some say it
grows easily, others claim that it strikes root with diffi-
culty. Its resistant qualities do not appear to be fully
determined ; its strong growth is in its favor, while the
- goftness of its roots are an unfavorable indication.
Vitis ARIZONICA, Engelmann (Arizona Vine).—This
differs very much from the preceding in its habit and
general appearance. While the California vine trails over
the ground, the Arizona is a very upright grower. Wood
smooth, yellowish, slender, and long-jointed; leaves
heart-shaped, shining, and smooth on both sides. The -
roots are not so soft as those of the California grape, re-
sembling those of the riparia, though not quite so firm.
I have not seen the fruit, but creditable samples of wine
have been made of it. Its chief value will be as a resist-
ant grafting stock, although its value for that purpose is
not yet fully established.
11
242 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
VITIS CANDICANS, Engelmann (Mustang Grape of
Texas).—I have not observed this vine in its native habi-
tat, but am told that it is a strong grower, climbing to
the tops of the tallest trees. Leaves deeply lobed, almost
like those of a watermelon, downy above and below,
though more so on the lower side; growth long and
straggling. Said to be fully resistant to phylloxera, but
difficult to propagate from cuttings.
All of these four species grow readily from seeds, as
does the riparia. For grafting stock, my preference
would be riparia and rupestris, as they are strong grow-
ers, and seem to flourish in all kinds of soil.
PROPAGATION.
All that has been said in the first part of the book will
also apply here, with perhaps some modifications to
suit tho soil and climate. Most of the vineyards of
vinifera thus far planted, were started directly with cut-
tings, set in early spring. As all the varieties of this
grow very readily from cuttings, this seemed to be
the easiest and cheapest mode, and was universally fol-
lowed, although the cuttings used varied in length from
fifteen to thirty inches, according to the practice followed
by the different planters. A great many, however, begin
to prefer rooted vines, started in a nursery, as they make
a more even stand, and also produce sooner.
I would not advise any one, however, with the ravages
of the phylloxera in some parts of the State before his
eyes, to use anything but resistant vines for stocks, |
and to graft these afterwards, if desired, with the
best vinifera varieties. For the purpose, I would obtain
cuttings of either riparia or rupestris, from ten to
twelve inches long, and plant them in the nursery for
one year, where they will make good, stocky plants, to be
transferred to the vineyard the next year, and grafted the
second or third spring, according to their strength. The
AND WINE MAKING. 243
cost will but be a trifle more, as good enttings of these
varieties can be obtained, grown in the State, for about
eight dollars per thousand, and the vines will pay for the
additional trouble of grafting, by their increased yield
and greater vigor. The seeds of the riparia and rupestris,
if sown in nursery rows, will vegetate readily, and make
good plants, although not so strong as the cuttings.
THE NURSERY.
For the nursery select a good, fertile piece of land, with
deep, rather sandy soil, if it can be had. Plow deeply
in fall or early winter, as soon as the first rains have
fully saturated the soil, and plow again early in spring,
just before planting. The deeper the ground is plowed,
the better will it hold moisture, and I have found, by
experience, that pulverizing the soil well, making it deep
and mellow, and frequently stirring it during the sum-
mer, to keep it porous, is more successful than irriga-
tion, and raises better and more hardy plants. The cut-
tings need uniform warmth as well as moisture, and irri-
gation has a tendency to cool the ground at the base of the
cuttings too much. ‘These sudden changes from warm
to cold, are anything but beneficial to the young plant
in its most tender period. This treatment will apply to
all cuttings, Asiatic or American, and also to seedlings.
For the nursery I prefer the cuttings even shorter than
usual, say between eight and ten inches long, as they
can be planted perpendicularly, and will make strong-
er roots at the base than longer cuttings, which will
make numerous weak roots at every joint. Cuttings, as
well as seeds, are generally planted in March or April,
when the ground has become warm, and will work well.
Cuttings can be made at any time during the winter, as
soon as the wood is fully ripened, and kept and planted
as described in the first part of this book, Chapter IIT. I
have found it very convenient to make the rows three
244 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
and a half feet apart, placing the cuttings but an inch
apart in the rows. A horse cultivator, with the centre
tooth taken out, is to be run on both sides of the rows,
ridging up slightly to the cuttings, and this should be
repeated once a week during May, June, and July.
As grafting should be done in the vineyard, I will give
the most practical method there.
CHAPTER XLIX.
THE VINEYARD.—LOCATION, SOIL, AND PREPARATION.
Perhaps there is no other country which presents a
greater diversity of soils and situations than this State
does, and this is often seen in localities not more than
fifty or a hundred feet apart. On the same hillside, a
tough clay, commonly called ‘‘ adobe” here, may change
into white alkali soil within a hundred feet, which in its
turn may give place to loose, stony soil, and this again to
red, volcanic soil, which contains a good dea! of iron. The
valleys of Northern California are subject to late frosts
in early spring, and early frosts in fall, but even these gen-
erally follow certain low streaks, where the soil is not so
well drained ; so that one side of the valley may be com-
paratively exempt from frosts, while the other suffers very
frequently. The valleys have generally the richest and
most friable soil, produce the heaviest crops, and they
are also easier of cultivation; while the hillsides, with
proper soil, will produce finer quality, though less in
quantity, and are more secure from frost.
On the hillsides, my choice would be the side of hills
sloping towards the east and south, as they are more
sheltered from destructive winds, and not so exposed to ©
the afternoon sun, which is apt to scald the grapes. Of
hillside soils, my first choice would be, especially for red
AND WINE MAKING. 245
wines, the red volcanic soil, or black soil mixed with sand
and small stones. Such a soil will drain and work well
without washing, is warm, and will give wines of deep
color, body, and rich in tannin. Next to this would
come the clay, or adobe soil, for, although difficult to
work, and needing constant stirring in summer to keep
the surface mellow, it is very fertile, and will produce
wines of good quality in abundance, if well worked. My
third choice would be a stony soil, loose and friable,
which generally produces well also, after the vines have
become established. ‘The poorest of all our hill lands is the
white, alkali soil, which does not seem to suit vines at all,
as they grow very slowly; therefore I would not have any
of this soil if 1 coyld help it. But, unfortunately, we
find more or less of it in all locations, and can hardly
avoid it altogether. The best we can do is, to look out
that there is not too much of it. In choosing a location,
the purchaser should also see that his soil is of sufficient
depth, at least two or three feet above the bed rock, so
that the roots of the vine can find moisture in our dry
summers, which they can only do when the soil is deep
enough. Large oaks, intermingled with mountain laurel
-and hazel undergrowth, mixed with hillside ferns, are
generally indications of a soil well adapted to the grape.
In the valleys, guard against frosty locations, which I
would not have under any consideration. It is too dis-
couraging to see the promise of a bountiful crop swept
away by the frosts of a single night, and to live in con-
stant dread that this may happen.
Very steep hillsides, though they may produce good
wines, are very difficult to cultivate, and liable to wash ;
they should therefore also be avoided.
PREPARATION OF THE GROUND.
Having first cleared the ground of all obstacles, stumps,
trees, stones, etc., it should be plowed as deep as possi-
246 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ble with a good four-horse team and plow, following with
a subsoil plow in the same furrow. What has been said
on preparing the soil, in the first part of the book, will
also apply here. The ground cannot be prepared too
well ; what is worth doing at all, is worth doing well.
For planting, the ground is generally laid off in two-
acre blocks ; if the vines are planted eight by eight feet,
the usual distance, the blocks contain forty-eight vines
in the rows lengthwise by twenty-four vines crosswise,
with alleys or avenues sixteen feet wide between,
making five hundred and _ seventy-six vines to the
acre. Having harrowed and rolled the ground well,
to give it a smooth surface, we are ready for
marking. Small stakes of redwood, fifteen inches long
by half an inch in diameter, are used for the purpose.
Establish the four outside lines of the block first, by
driving in stakes every eight feet, then stretch one
line lengthwise, and another line across, with an active
boy at each end to move the line to the next stake,
one puts down the marks where the two lines cross each
other. If you have a line at each side of the block,
and another man, the work can be done still quicker, as
two rows can be marked at the same time.
Of course, the distance between the vines can be
changed ad libitum, but I find eight feet a very conven-
ient distance, giving ample room for cultivation without
crowding the vines too much.
We can now proceed to planting. As this has already
been described in the first part of the book, I need not
dwell on it very long. Should cuttings, however, be
planted, instead of rooted vines, I would advise planting
with a spade instead of a crowbar, as is very often done.
The iron bar may answer in sandy soil, where the sand
will naturally settle around the base of the cutting with
the first rain. But in soils of any consistency, the spade
is decidedly better, and takes but little more time. Throw
AND WINE MAKING. 247
out the soil with the spade to the depth you wish to
plant, then place the cutting down in the hole, throw
in fine soil, and firm it well to the base of the cutting
with the foot, letting the upper end come out at the stake,
leaving one or two eyes above the surface; then fill up
the hole to the top, leaving a small mound around the
upper bud.
CHAPTER LI.
THE VINEYARD.—SELECTION OF VARIETIES.
As remarked before, I would not run the risk of
planting a vineyard with varieties of the Vinifera, even
in districts not as yet affected by phylloxera. This
scourge, sooner or later, will be carried all over the
State, and make itself felt everywhere, except perhaps
in those districts which have a sandy soil, or which can
be inundated. But even on such soils, I firmly believe
that the little additional cost of the plants of resistant
stocks and the grafting will be doubly repaid by the
increased vigor of the vines and their greater produc-
tiveness, a fact which is already well established in
France.
But whether you plant Vinifera cuttings or resistant
stocks for grafting afterwards, or for immediate bearing,
plant and graft none but the best varieties, those which
will make such wines, or yield such raisins or fruit as
will find a ready and remunerative market. Our motto
should be ‘Excelsior!’ We can make good wines,
wines that will rank with any of the world’s best pro-
ducts, if we have the suitable material and manage it
properly and. skilfully. The depression in the markets
only a few short years ago, was caused mainly by the
248 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
fact that the great bulk of wines were made from the
Mission grape, many of them poorly made and handled
carelessly; at that time wines went a-begging at ten to
twelve cents per gallon, and grapes could hardly find
buyers at eight and ten dollars per ton. These facts
ought to show us that our wines, to gain and secure a
world-wide market, and even to take the place of for-
eign importations in this country, must be of a quality
that need not shun competition anywhere. That we
have the material to do this, no one can doubt who has
seen and tested some of the really choice wines already
produced, made by some of our best vintners in differ-
ent sections of the State. But the great trouble is now,
that we have not enough of these really choice wines to
supply one-tenth of the demand for them, and that our
dealers are forced to blend the finer wines with the low
grades, in order to get rid of the inferior stock at all.
The grower should consider in the first place, that those
who buy his grapes must spend the same amount for labor
to make and handle a poor product, that it takes the same
amount of casks and apparatus to make and keep the
wine, that it is more difficult to handle, and that it
costs the same amount of freight to send a gallon of
poor or inferior wine to the Eastern markets that it
does for good. It takes a greater amount of labor to sell it
even at half price; for itis an old saying, that ‘* good wine
needs no bush,” and the grower would perhaps not cen- —
sure the dealer so much for what is mostly his own fault. —
Let us therefore all strive to plant only the best varieties,
suited to our soil and locality. Our red voleanic soils
are better adapted to the production of choice red wines,
as are most of our adobe lands, than the valleys, which
will make lighter colored and milder wines, and are
therefore better suited for the production of white wines
than of red.
That the selection of varieties for such a diversity of
ae
AND WINE MAKING. 249
soils and of climate must yet be somewhat of an experi-
ment, is self-evident. If, therefore, there are vineyards
already established in one’s immediate neighborhood, it
will be best to examine them, see what succeeds best
there, and choose accordingly. But if there is no such
‘guide, or the neighbors cultivate only the common
varieties, it will pay one to go to some location similar
to his, where there is a good, careful grower, when
the grapes are ripe, examine them, and get his opinion
as to their value. ‘T'wo of the best places in the State,
perhaps, for this purpose, are the vineyards of Mr. H.
W. Crabb, at Oakville, Napa Co., and the vineyards
and cellars of Mr. Chas. Lefranc, at San Jose, Santa
Clara Co. The first has a collection of over three hun-
dred varieties, perhaps the largest in the State, Mr. C. is
a skilful wine maker, and a thoroughly practical man,
who takes great pains to keep his varieties true to name.
Mr. Lefranc has taken great pains in improving and
growing the best French varieties, and has given the
business close attention. Mr. G. Groezinger, at Yount-
ville, Napa Co., is also a very painstaking and intelligent
wine grower, cultivating choice varieties. The following
list is the result of observations made mostly in their
vineyards. It comprises only a small number of the
very best, taking both high quality and productiveness
into consideration, and from looking carefully over the
selections of others, as well as from personal experience
with some of the varieties. There are many more which
, may be as valuable, but have not been as fully tried as
‘these. ‘These are given separately, as ‘‘ promising well.”
I have also given their many synonyms by which they
‘are distributed and known in different parts of the
State, as far as I have been able to find them. It would
lead too far in a work of this condensed character to
give their full descriptions. These can be found in other
and larger French and German works, where they are
250 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
also completely illustrated. I have only given the gen-
eral characteristics of the fruit and its quality for wine.
FOR RED WINE.
BuacK BurGUNDY.—Syn. Petite Pinot. Vine very
hardy, a compact and moderate grower, very productive.
Bunch medium, compact; berry below medium, oblong,
black, juicy, sweet. Makes a dark-red wine of fine fla-
vor, very soft and full.
Gamay McGury.—Synonyms. ‘Tinto, Rouge de Can-
tal. Rather slender grower, very productive. Bunch
small, compact; berry black, very juicy, with a sprightly
purple juice. Makes a first-class claret.
GrossE BLavE.—Vigorous and productive. Bunch
medium, compact; berry medium, oblong, black, juicy,
spicy. Makes a fine dark-red wine.
Lrenorr.—Syns. Jacques, Black Spanish, Devereaux,
American, with resistant roots, vigorous and healthy
foliage, productive. Bunch long and loose; berry small,
round, black, with deep purple juice. Makes a very
dark-colored wine of good quality, but especially valuable
for blending with and coloring other wines.
ZINFANDEL. —Syns. Zinfindel, Zierfahndel. Per-
haps the best known and most generally planted of all
our red-wine grapes. Vine a good grower and produc-
tive, but varies very much in different soils, lacking
color in a great many, but making a fine sprightly claret
in good locations, if well handled. Bunch large and
heavy, shouldered; berry round, medium, black, very
juicy, but ripening unevenly, and requires to hang long,
as it contains a great deal of acid. A blend with a small
quantity of Lenoir will improve it greatly, giving it a
deeper color and a fuller taste.
AND WINE MAKING. 251
VARIETIES PROMISING WELL.
Biack Farmor. — Vine vigorous and productive.
Bunch small, very compact, shouldered; berry oblong,
medium, juicy, with black-purple juice. Not tried for
wine,
Brack Discui1aA.—Syns. Black Pinot, Blane Claey-
ner, Black Merlat, Chauche Noir. <A good grower and
moderate bearer. Bunch medium, compact, shouldered;
berry below medium, oblong, black, of high character, but
hardly productive enough, and the wine lacks color.
MatTaro.—Syn. Balsac, Upright Burgundy. A good
grower, and hardy, also very productive. Bunch heavy,
compact; berry medium, black, with blue bloom; makes
a fair red wine, but not of first quality nor very deep
color.
CHARBONO.—Syn. Charbonneau. Vine very produc-
tive and hardy. Bunch long, shouldered, of peculiar
Shape; berry medium, moderately juicy, but decidedly
flat and coarse in taste. Makes a very dark red wine,
and plenty of it, but of second quality; only valuable for
blending and coloring, for which purpose I think the
Lenoir far more valuable, and a much better wine.
CARIGNANE.—Syn. Crignane. Similar to Mataro in
productiveness and quality; will also make a good red
wine, though hardly first class.
GRENACHE.—Vine very productive; especially adapted
to poor soils. Bunch heavy and compact; berry rather
small. Makes a fair red wine, but hardly of the highest
quality.
Mevuntier.—Syns. Miller’s Burgundy. France Pinot.
Vine a slender grower, fair bearer. Bunch small, com-
pact; berry small, black, juicy. Makes a fine red wine.
252 AMERICAN GRAPE ‘GROWING
FOR WHITE WINE.
CHAUCHE GriIs.—Syns. Gray Riessling, Gray Dischia,
Gray Claevner, Gray Pinot, Rulander. Vine a vigorous
grower, very productive. Bunch medium, very compact,
shouldered; berry small, oblong, of a peculiar gray color,
very sprightly, juicy. Makes a very fine white wine,
sprightly and high flavored, of the first quality and de-
cided character; valuable by itself, and peculiarly suited
to impart character to other white wines.
FRANKEN RIESSLING.—Syns. Sylvaner, Oesterreicher.
Vine thrifty and productive. Bunch medium, compact,
shouldered; berry rather small, very juicy, high flavored,
with an agreeable mingling of acid and sweet. Makes a
fine wine of high character, and a good deal of it.
JOHANNISBERG RIESSLING.—Syns. ‘True Riessling,
Schloss Johannisberg. This grape and its quality are
too well known to need laudation. It makes one of the
finest of our wines, and may be called the standard of
excellence in white wines. Vine vigorous, moderately
productive with long pruning. Bunch small, compact;
berry small, greenish-yellow, with a peculiar gray dot on
the sunny side.
ORLEANS RriESsLING.—This is somewhat similar to the
Franken Riessling, a very heavy bearer and vigorous vine,
while many rate its wine higher than that of the Franken.
It is a very desirable variety.
KLEINBERGER.—Also a variety of Riessling, valued
very highly in Sonoma Valley on account of its general
productiveness, vigor, and the uniform good quality of
its wine.
SAUVIGNON VERT.—Syns. Green Sauvignon, Chab-
lis. This is the celebrated Sauterne grape of France, and
it succeeds admirably here; it is a very heavy bearer,
its wine is very pure in taste, yet sprightly, and is one
——— -_ ae
AND WINE MAKING. 253
of our best white-wine grapes. Bunch above medium,
long, rather loose; berry rather small, greenish white,
very juicy and sprightly.
SEMILLION.—This is another of the famous white-
Wine grapes of France. Vine vigorous, productive;
bunch compact, shouldered; berry full, medium, slightly
oblong, very juicy and sprightly.
SEEDLEsS SULTANA.—This is perhaps the most profit-
able of all white-wine grapes, as it is an enormous bearer
with long pruning, a vigorous grower; has a very heavy
bunch, and ripens evenly. Add to this that it has no
seeds, consequently yields a large amount of must, and
that it makes an excellent wine of a greenish-white color,
and we cannot wonder that it is planted extensively by
all who appreciate these qualities. With Mr. R. B.
Blowers, of Woodland, who first planted it for raisins,
it produced seventeen tons to the acre last year, which,
as the unusual rains interfered with curing them for
raisins, the wine-makers purchased readily at thirty-two
dollars per ton; and Mr. Crabb, who has made wine of it
for several years, has this year secured the whole crop
of that neighborhood at thirty dollars per ton. Bunch
large and heavy, shouldered; berry small, round, golden
yellow, without seeds, and with a delicate pure taste and
flavor. The wine made from it by Mr. Crabb was one of
the best on exhibition among the white wines exhibited
at the Grape Growers’ Convention, at Dashaway Hall.
TRAMINER.—This is one of the most famous wine
grapes of the Palatinate and the Rhine, and has fur-
nished some of the noblest wines made in this State. It
is a rather delicate grower, but an abundant bearer.
Bunch small, shouldered; berry small, reddish-lilae,
sweet, spicy, and high flavored, and rich in sugar. It
makes a wine of great body, smooth, rich, and high fla-
vored.
254 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Prepro XIMENES.—Syn. Chasselas de Foy. The cel-
ebrated Sherry grape of Spain, which makes a fine white
wine of high character here. Bunch long, loose, not
shouldered; berry full, medium, greenish-yellow, juicy,
and high flavored, containing a good deal of tannin;
ripens rather late.
West’s Prouiric.—The origin of this grape is un-
known; it was first cultivated by Mr. George West, at
Stockton. It is an enormous bearer, somewhat resem-
bling the foregoing, but heavier in its bunch; berry
somewhat smaller and more delicate. Makes a very fine
white wine, and an excellent, delicately-flavored brandy.
To these, which are all of the first quality for white
wines, I would add several varieties of Chasselas, on ac-
count of their regular productiveness and the uniformly
fair quality of their wines, which are very mild and
agreeable, though not of the highest character.
CHASSELAS FONTAINEBLEAU.—Syns. Gutedel, Royal
Muscadine. This is rather a delicate, straggling grower,
but a very uniform and prolific bearer, while its fruit is
always even. Bunch medium, shouldered; berry me-
dium, round, golden yellow, with sometimes a brownish
tinge in the sun. The ‘‘ Gutedel” of Messrs. Gundlach
& Co. has already established quite a reputation, and is
uniformly appreciated as a delicate, pleasant wine.
CHASSELAS VIOLETTE.—Syn. Chasselas Rouge. A
stronger grower than the foregoing, with peculiar, brown-
ish foliage, and has also the peculiarity that the young
fruit assumes a violet tinge when but half grown, being
darker then than when it is fully ripe; very productive.
Bunch long, rather loose, shouldered; berry medium,
round, pale red or lilac, sweet and good. Makes a rather
richer and higher flavored wine than the foregoing.
VICTORIA CHASSELAS.—Syns. Red Chasselas, Queen
Victoria, Bakator, Barbaroux. <A very estimable grape,
Se Ce
:
AND WINE MAKING. 255
a short-jomted, stocky grower, especially adapted to
stool training, and a heavy bearer of very large bunches.
Buneb very large, often weighing six pounds, compact,
~ and shouldered; berry medium, round, red, with beauti-
ful lilac bloom, juicy, high flavored, and spicy, making a
very good white wine.
To those who admire a Muscatelle flavor, the small
German Muscatelle, or Frontignan, will be acceptable, as
it is a good bearer of medium-sized bunches, which make
a heavy, yet sprightly wine, with a delicate Muscat or
Frontignan flavor, which makes it a favorite with many.
VARIETIES PROMISING WELL,
MARSANNE.—A beautiful grower and heavy bearer of
fruit which somewhat resembles the Sauvignon Vert, and
is of a very high character, promising well for a delicate
wine. ° .
CADILLAC.—Good grower and bearer. Bunch long
and loose; berry medium, round. Is one of the cele-
brated wine grapes of France, and the few samples made
here seem to sustain its Kuropean reputation.
La FoLue BLANCHE.—Said to be an enormous bearer,
hence its name, ‘‘ the Crazy.” Good wine has been made
of it in this State, and in France it is famous for pro-
ducing the finest flavored and most delicate brandy.
Bure@er.—Syns. Berger, Putzscheere. An old variety
in this State, an enormous bearer of very heavy bunches,
but making a very light, acid wine in the valley lands of
the north, while the hillsides afford a better product. In
the south, near Los Angeles, very good wine has been
made from it by Messrs. Stern and Rose, and others. It
seems to be well adapted there; in the north I would
plant it only in warm locations and on the hillsides. It
is a neutral wine, of very little character, but useful for
blending on account of its agreeable acid and smooth-
ness. I do not see any reason why those who can have
256 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
the Sultana, which will bear the same quantity and give
much better quality, should plant the Burger.
Among the American varieties promising highly for
white wine, the Herbemont, or Warren, is perhaps the
first. Wine has been made from it here, which is very
fine, of a pale straw-color, and fine flavor. The vine
grows vigorously, has beautiful foliage, and endures all
the vicissitudes of our hot summers. It is the only va-
riety in the vineyards under my charge which has not
suffered in the least from the three hot days in June,
which caused coulwre in all others. As it is also fully
resistant to phylloxera, it promises to be a valuable ac-
quisition to this State, as it has already become in
France, where its wine ranks high. For a full descrip-
tion of it, I refer the reader to the first part of the book.
I will add here, that all the varieties of Vitis estivalis
promise well here; they have splendid foliage, which ad-
mirably withstands the sun and drouth, and also the at-
tacks of the thrip, to which the more delicate leaves of
the varieties of V. vinifera succumb. Norton’s Virginia,
at Fresno, with Mr. Hisen, has splendid foliage, and also
bears well with long pruning, and here in our vineyards
the Cynthiana, Cunningham, Rulander, and Dunn, are
growing finely, though not old enough to bear fruit as
yet. ‘The improved varieties of V. riparia, however,
seem to lose their leaves, and the fruit is smaller than
in Missouri; they may not, therefore, be valuable for any
other purpose than for grafting stocks. I can report on
them further next year, when I shall have a number of
varieties in bearing.
In obtaining cuttings or vines, the purchaser should
be especially careful to procure them of reliable men.
There is such confusion existing here in the nomencla-
ture of vines, that but very few know what they really
have, and as a great many vineyards are grievously mixed,
it is very difficult indeed to obtain varieties true to name.
eee ee ee el Be
AND WINE MAKING. PAR)
It will be a herculean task to bring order out of this chaos,
and if our State Viticultural Commission would apply a
part of their efforts earnestly to this, they would do the
public a greater benefit than by constantly preaching
French and other outlandish practices and theories which
may prove imprat@ticable here.
The foregoing are but a few of the varieties cultivated
here, and no doubt the near future will bring a number
of others into notice that may be fully as valuable.
Among these the Trousseau promises well for making a
valuable, dark-colored wine, especially useful to be man-
ufactured into Port. The varieties just named and de-
scribed are specially adapted to make fine, dry red and
white wines, which, in my opinion, will be the leading
interest in grape culture in this State.
The question, whether to plant more red or white-wine
grapes, is one that may be difficult to answer. The de-
mand at present seems to be very large for clarets, larger
than for white wines. But, on the other hand, the
plantings of red-wine grapes, especially of Zinfandel,
have been much more numerous than those of choice
white varieties. It is certain that there is a class of con-
sumers who prefer choice hocks and white wines to clar-
ets, and they are generally willing to pay a good price.
When the general tendency seems to be to plant red-wine
grapes, surely some should make white wines to meet the
demand for them which already exists, and is sure to in-
crease. Besides, we have a choicer selection of white
wines and white-wine grapes than of red, and would
make a comparatively better article of them to-day than
of red wines. My advice would be to plant what suits
your soil. If it is not red, voleanic soil, or adobe, which
will give good color, plant mostly red grapes. If the
soil is loose, or sandy, plant white-wine grapes. If the
wines you make are good, they will sell readily, whether
they are red or white.
258 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER LL.
CULTIVATION, TRAINING, AND GRAFTING.
During the first summer after planting, the young
vines will need no further attention than frequent stir-
ring of the soil by plowing, cultivating, and hoeing. °
Where they are not irrigated, they will make but slow
growth the first summer, as this season is without rain,
from the beginning or middle of May until September,
and sometimes even longer. Keep the surface of the soil
loose and mellow, it is the only way to retain moisture in
the soil and keep the plants alive and growing. The
vine will become established and firmly rooted the first
summer, and its progress will be rapid the second year.
Cut back to two buds of the young growth, from which
to start a strong shoot to form the basis of the future
vine. Plowing is the operation next in order. The
common practice has been to commence in the middle of
the row, with a good team and a two-horse plow. Plow
a good, deep furrow in the centre of the row, then return
in the row, plowing the second furrow towards the first,
and a third furrow towards the first from the other side,
so as throw the soil towards the middle and from the
vines. This is as near as you can come to the vines with
two horses, and a man with a single horse walking in
the furrow finishes up the row close to the vines, al-
ways plowing the ground away from the vines, and to-
wards the middle. A good, careful man can come
within a few inches of the vine and leave but a small
strip for the hoe. Hoeing comes next, and we use
either two-pronged hoes, the old German implement, or
spading forks, with which the ground is thoroughly
loosened and stirred around the vine. Then comes cross-
plowing, which is done by plowing across the former fur-
rows at right angles, first throwing a shallow furrow with
TT a
AND WINE MAKING. 259
a one-horse plow towards the vine, on each side of the
row, which is followed by one somewhat deeper, still with
a one-horse plow, which is followed by a two-horse plow
until the centre of the space is finished. This leaves the
vines in a bed of mellow earth around them, and the
ground is still more mellowed by harrowing across with
an iron harrow, wide enough to take the row pretty close
to the vines, to break the lumps and destroy the weeds.
The Acme harrow is best for this purpose. Commence
with these operations as soon as the ground is dry enough
to work well, in spring. If the winter is as favorable as
the two last have been, most of these operations can be
performed during the winter months, which is also a
good time to plant rooted vines, make cuttings, ete.
There is a prejudice against planting cuttings in the
vineyard during winter, as our old practitioners say that
the cuttings will rot in the cool, damp soil, and will not
start as freely as if planted in March or April, when
the ground is warmer. ‘This sounds plausible, and as I
have had mostly rooted vines to plant, which kept me
busy all winter, I have not been able to test it practi-
cally. I know, however, that the young vines planted
in winter start readily early in spring, and it would seem
that the same theory would apply to cuttings.
The above is the most common way of plowing in
vogue all through this section. Great improvements
have been made lately, however, by gang plows, invented
for vineyard use. I will describe one of them, invented
by a gentleman in Napa Co., this State. It consists
of an iron frame on two low wheels, and has a tongue to
guide it, as have all gang plows. The iron frame consists
of five strong iron bars, running lengthwise, connected by
a cross-bar behind. To these bars, which are about a fur-
row’s breadth apart, two plowshares are attached by iron
clamps, taking the two centre furrows first, throwing the
ground together in the middle. When a piece is thus
=
260 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
finished, the plows are attached to the next two bars, and
take the next two furrows. When this is done, the
plows are again set out further, either by crooked
shanks, bringing them a furrow closer to the vines, or
by a square attachment to the frame. I prefer the latter,
especially among young vines. Of course, the plows must
be one right-hand share and a left-hand one. In loose soil,
in our valleys, two horses can pull the machine, but in
heavy soil, and on hillsides, 1t takes four to do good
work. The driver rides on the plow, behind the horses,
and regulates the depth of the furrow by a lever, like a
brake on a wagon, by which he can lift the plow entirely
out of the ground when he turns at the end. There
should be abundance of room at the ends of the rows, to
turn without damaging the vines.
In cross-plowing, the shares are reversed on the frame,
so as to throw the ground to the vines, and the furrows
next to the vines are taken first. After the first two
plowings, it can also be converted, in tough, consistent
soils, into a cultivator, by attaching four shares and not
plowing so deep. It saves a great deal of labor, as it
does double the work of a common two-horse plow,
needs but one driver, and does the work better.
Several similar plows have since been invented, which
claim to do better and more work; but, so far as I know,
none have been fully completed. They will plow about
seven acres a day, with two shares attached, and we
have cultivated an average of seventeen acres a day with
one man and four horses when four shares were used.
Cultivation during the summer is generally done with
sulky cultivators, with five teeth, to make the ground
loose and mellow and keep down the weeds, using com-
mon field hoes around the vines as often as necessary.
As the system of planting and training admits of cultiva-
ting in both directions, it makes it very easy to keep the
ground clean and mellow, especially as the dry weather
Ce a
AND WINE MAKING. 261
stops the growth of weeds. The vines do not materially
need a support the second summer, especially if they are
of varieties of stock resistant to phylloxera, to be grafted
‘next spring. They may be allowed to trail on the ground,
and as cultivation is generally finished by the first of
August, they will not interfere much with it.
The third summer we expect to train our vines and
give them the first start of a head or top. If the young
vine is a Vinifera, or other variety, which is to be a direct
producer, and has made a stocky growth of three feet,
it is pruned to one cane of eighteen inches or two feet,
as may suit the habits of the vine and the fancy of the
cultivator. A stake of red-wood should then be pro-
vided for support, the usual length is four feet, by an
inch and a half in diameter, though many prefer stakes
five and even six feet long. A four-foot stake will give
from two feet six inches to two feet nine inches above
ground, which is high enough for most varieties if the
head is formed at eighteen inches above the ground.
These stakes can either be purchased in bolts, at about
twelve dollars per cord, and split by the vintner, or they
can be had sawed, at seventeen dollars per thousand.
If long stakes are used, they should also be thicker, and
will cost more in proportion. In many vineyards they
dispense with stakes altogether, but I think this is very
slovenly culture, and not to be recommended. A vine,
if worth anything at all, is worth a stake; it is more
convenient in cultivating, gives a support to the vine
which is very much needed, and will pay the additional
cost in less than two years by the increased yield and
better quality of the fruit. The stakes are pointed at
one end and driven, by a mallet or sledge, on the south
west side of the vine, as our prevailing winds are from
that side, and by tieing to that side the vine 1s also
shaded from the afternoon sun. ‘The tieing is done
either with willow twigs, of which every vintner should
262 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
raise a supply, and which make the best and most dura-
ble tie, or with grape twine. The New Zealand Flax
(Phormium tenax), makes an excellent tie, and can be
grown for that purpose in swampy places. The Agricul-
tural Department of the State University has sent out!
quite a number of the plants, and its leaves, torn into
strips, make a very strong and flexible material for tieing.
GRAFTING THE VINES.
If resistant stocks were planted, they will be strong
enough for grafting now. This operation may be com-
menced here in February, and carried on into May, pro-
vided the cions are kept dormant and in good condition.
The common cleft graft, as illustrated in the first part of
this book, on page 23, I still consider the simplest, best,
and most successful. ‘To do it most conveniently and
quickly, however, I think it needs a force of five men,
each to do his own particular share of the work. It
can best be done after the first hoeing, when the ground
can be taken away from the collar of the vine, leaving
it ready for the operation. One man now cuts the
stocks with sharp pruning shears (page 119), keeping
the blade of the shears on the upper side, and cutting
square across. The cut should be made at a smooth
place, about an inch and a half above a knot or joint,
and either at the surface of the ground or just below it.
Then make a longitudinal cut in the stock, also with the
shears, cutting straight downwards, and also with the
blade of the shears kept on top, so as not to bruise the
bark. Let another man cut the cions, as figured on page
23, making a long, sloping, smooth wedge, thinner on
one side than on the other. Hand No. 3 then inserts
the cions, which he can do in stocks of that size without
a wedge or any other implement, pushing the cion down
AND WINE MAKING. 263
so that it fits nicely the inner bark of the cion to the
inner bark of the stock, and on the upper side of the
latter. Hand No. 4 follows with tying material; bass-
wood bark or rice straw are very suitable, if kept moist.
Hand No. 5 follows with a hoe, and pulls fine, pulverized
earth around the junction, up to the top of the cion, to
keep off the sun and hold the moisture. It will be
well to drive a stake on the southwest side of the vine
immediately after grafting, say two to three inches from
it, to which the young shoots, when they appear, can be
tied from time to time during the summer; it will also
serve to shade and protect the graft. If suckers of the wild
stock appear, they should be rubbed off, taking care not
to disturb the cion, and in hoeing and plowing after-
wards, the same care should be exereised. After-cultiva-
tion 1s the same as with the other vines. If the graft
grows vigorously, it may be pinched when eighteen inches
high; this will serve to start the laterals, from which the
head of the vine may be formed the next spring, and also
to make the vine more stocky and ripen the lower buds.
In this manner, by dividing the labor, grafting will be
performed quicker and better; as each man handles but
one tool, and as each of the operations is very simple in-
deed, he will soon learn to do his part well, if he has but
ordinary intelligence and dexterity. Jam sure that five
men, thus organized, can easily graft five thousand vines
per day, or one thousand each. Of course, care should
be taken that the cions are not exposed. hey can be
carried in a tin can or pail, with the wedge downwards,
in moist saw-dust. If everything is done well, ninety per
cent. will grow, and the few which fail may be grafted
again next season. If any of the stocks are too small,
leave them until next season. They should be at least
two-thirds of an inch in diameter to graft well, while an
inch to an inch and a quarter is a still better size.
There are a great many other methods, such as the so-
264 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
called English cleft, or whip graft, saddle grafting, graft-
ing by approach, etc. It is not my object to give an
elaborate treatise unon grafting, but to give the most
simple and practical method by which large vineyards can
be grafted with the least labor and cost, as well as with
the greatest assurance of success, and for which common
field hands, with ordinary intelligence and skill, can be
used. All the more complicated methods, as well as
grafting in the shop and setting out the grafts, I con-
sider as little better than impractical nuisances, not
adapted to the requirements of the practical vineyardist.
With this method little or no time will be lost, for we
do not expect much fruit the third summer, and the
graft will make nearly, if not quite, as much growth as
a shoot from the original vine would have done.
Vines which were not grafted, but tied to the stake
and pruned as described, will push out strong shoots
from the upper buds. These are left, either two or three,
to form the future head of the vine. If the growth is
strong, each of these shoots will bear a few bunches of
grapes, so that the crop, the third summer, will some-
times be from one to two tons of grapes to the acre,
enough to pay for staking and cultivation. In the south-
ern part of the State, where vineyards are irrigated, there
are instances on record of two to three tons of grapes
even the second summer; but here in the north, where
we do not irrigate, it generally takes four years before
much of a crop can be obtained, nor is it judicious to let
the vines bear too early, as it exhausts and debilitates
them. To form a good head, all the lower shoots should
be rubbed off as soon as they appear, and only two or
three of the upper shoots*be left, according to the
strength of the vine.
The following winter, if the stool or head pruning,
which is now most generally followed, is to be adopted,
we usually cut back these shoots to two or three buds
J ee
AND WINE MAKING. 265
each, always pruning to an outward bud, so that the
upper shoot, which will be the strongest, will grow out-
ward, as the object is to train the vine in the shape of
a hollow shrub, with as much light and air in the centre
as possible. This mode of training has been the uni-
versal one, and seems to be specially adapted to the Mis-
sion vine and some other varieties: Zinfandel, Victoria,
Chasselas, Malvaisia, and other short, stocky growers,
all produce well with it, and it is certainly very con-
venient and easy. If our vine has three shoots, or
branches, and is pruned to three spurs of two buds each,
these will give us six shoots, enough to form the future
head. In June, in this part of the State, the young
shoots are generally twelve to eighteen inches long. The
vine is then suckered, as it is commonly called, which
consists in rubbing off all barren and weak shoots, all
that may appear from the bottom and the stem of the
vine, and also all shoots that show a tendency to crowd
the head. This is also a good time to pinch the tips of
the remaining shoots, to make them more stocky and
shade the fruit better, as they will then throw out lateral
branches. IJ know that many consider this latter opera-
tion superfluous, and even injurious, but I have found it
very advantageous, especially as a guard against our
_ heavy winds, which have more power on the long and
straggling unchecked shoots, the vine balances much bet-
ter, and the fruit is less exposed to sun-scald. It is. dif-
ferent in its effects from the cutting of the ripening
wood in August, which is absolutely injurious, checking
the growth, and robbing the vine of its leaves when they
are most needed to perfect and ripen the crop. For all
the Riessling varieties, the Chasselas Fontainebleau, Vio-
let Chasselas, Seedless Sultana, and all those which make
longer growth of cane, especially the varieties of V. @s-
tivalis, I think a different mode of training should be
followed, and the general experience of grape growers
12
266 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
points that way. With those I would form the head
from twelve to eighteen inches from the ground the third
summer. In next winter’s pruning, if they have made
three strong shoots, cut back each of them to three
buds, from which we can expect at least six strong,
healthy shoots. In pruning, the fourth winter, cut the
three strongest of these, one from each branch of the
vine, back to a short cane, say eighteen inches, and the
others to spurs of two buds each. These canes are tied
over to the stake with a strong band of willow, and wili
bear more and better fruit than if cut back to short
spurs. At the next pruning these old arms may be left,
if they are healthy and sound, and the strongest of their
branches be cut back to spurs of two buds, while the
weak shoots are taken out altogether, or, if they are
deficient, they may be cut out and a new cane from the
lower spurs tied in their place. This method of train-
ing allows cultivation both ways, and has been so suc-
cessful wherever tried, that the use of stakes becomes
more general everywhere. I have more than doubled
the product of an old piece of Chasselas and Muscatelle,
which had been trained to low heads without stakes, by
training them in this way, and also improved the quality,
as under the former treatment the long canes were blown
over by the wind, and the fruit exposed to the sun, |
In stool training the vines are cut back again to spurs
the next winter, cutting back to the strongest shoots,
and taking out the weaker ones. Of course in this, as
in all systems of pruning, due attention must be paid
to the strength of the vine, and the spurs may vary
from four to twelve, or even sixteen, according to its
vigor.
Cultivation is essentially the same as in the first years,
only, as the vines become stronger and more branched,
especially after pruning, great care must be taken not
to break and tear the vines in plowing. Here, again,
AND WINE MAKING. 267
the gang plows are of great advantage, as the plows can
be so arranged as to run close to the vines without
_ breaking the spurs or stakes.
DISEASES AND INSECTS.
Of diseases we do not suffer very much here, although
mildew (Oidiwm), black knot, red leaf—also called Span-
ish Measles, which is the same disease, I think, called
Anthracnose in France, and ‘* Pocken des Weinstocks ” in
Germany, and Coulure, or imperfect setting of the young
fruit, prevail to a certain extent. The best remedy
against mildew is pulverized sulphur, dusted on the
vines through a dredge with a fine wire screen. It is
generally applied twice in the season, in June and July,
on calm mornings, when a good, active hand can sul-
phur about five acres in half a day. About two pounds
to the acre is sufficient, and as it also is a good fertilizer,
it will pay to apply it abundantly, though not too late in
the season, as it will impart its taste to the wine.
Black Knot, also called Grape Cancer by some, is a
black, warty excrescence, which appears on the stems of
the vine and also on its branches. Its main causes are
stagnation of sap, caused by external injuries, excessive
pruning, or frost. Vineyards judiciously pruned, and
not subject to frost, will suffer but little from this dis-
ease. With me it has almost entirely disappeared, though
it was formerly very frequent, when strong vines, with a
good growth of cane fifteen feet long, were barbarously
cut back to five spurs of two buds each every year. Any
one who prunes his vines so unreasonably, should be
punished by having the Black Knot to teach him better
sense.
- Where the young growth of a vineyard has been en-
tirely killed by a sudden frost when it was in an imma-
‘ture state, so that the vine has no outlet for its flow of
268 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
sap, they may sometimes be saved by grafting, when the
cion will take up what would otherwise stagnate. But
if the reader will take my advice, he will not plant a
vineyard in a frosty location, as ‘‘an ounce of prevention
is better than a pound of cure.” ,
‘“‘Coulure,” or imperfect setting of the fruit, follows
sudden changes in the weather, and has done much
damage this year, when cold, damp, foggy weather was
followed by hot days, when a hot wind blew from the
north for nearly three days and nights, early in June;
the vines, which were in bloom at that time, did not set
more than half a crop, while those which bloomed later
suffered comparatively but little damage. Some varie-
ties, such as the Malbec, and others of that class, seem
to suffer almost constantly from it, and the best preven-
tive is, not to plant such kinds. I know of no remedy
which could be applied, and fortunately it is of rare.
occurrence here.
Red Leaf, or Spanish Measles. This will prove identi-
eal, I think, with the disease the French call Anthracnose.
It generally appears in midsummer, when the fruit is
but half grown. The leaves of the vine show red spots,
finally become red altogether, and drop off. The young
fruit becomes discolored, first grayish, then shrivels up,
and turns black. Very often only a certain branch of the
vine is affected, while all the others are healthy; a vine
may have it one summer and be entirely free from it the
next. It is most destructive on the Mission grape, al-
though it attacks all varieties more or less. It has never
been very destructive as yet. An application of sulphate
of iron in solution is recommended as a remedy, applied
in spring; some also recommend sulphur, but I can see
no benefit from the latter. 3
Among the insects injurious to the vine, found in this
State, the most formidable certainly is the phylloxera,
and it has already made serious inroads upon this in-
AND WINE MAKING. 269
dustry in various sections of the State, though not
spreading with the same rapidity, or being so immedi-
ately fatal as it is in France. It has made its appearance
in so many sections of the State, that we may take it for
granted that it will appear everywhere in time, although
‘it may never gain a firm foothold in those districts where
the soil is very sandy, and it can be submerged. That
its inroads can be serious enough even here, can easily be
seen in the devastated vineyards of Sonoma and Napa
counties, where hundreds of acres of once flourishing
vines have already succumbed to it. While it is un-
doubtedly true that vines in exhausted soil, impoverished
by constant crops, yield to its attacks quicker than those
on richer soil, or fertilized with manures, there can be no
doubt that all Vinifera varieties will succumb to it in
time, even‘ the richest soil. It is also just as apparent
that resistant vines, planted in soils where the Vinifera
varieties have been entirely destroyed, and the ground is
full of the insects, will live, thrive, and produce abun-
dantly. The best and only safe course for the planter is,
therefore, to plant resistant vines; and I would consider
it the hight of folly for any one to plant Viniferas in an
infected district. Let them not rely on insecticides as a
partial remedy. It is much cheaper, indeed, to plant
resistant vines at once, and be on the safe side, than to
doctor a vineyard where the insect has once appeared.
The plantings of Messrs. Dresel and Gundlach, in Sono-
ma Valley, as well as my own, of over two hundred and
eighty acres of resistant vines, have fully demonstrated
the fact that the riparia and its varieties will thrive in
all soils, and grow even more vigorously than the vini-
fera, wherever it will succeed. My course would there-
fore be to plant riparia and rupestris, which will grow
easily from cuttings, and graft them as described in the
preceding pages. I am glad to see that the last Con-
vention of Grape Growers, at San Francisco, took a de-
270 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
cided stand at last in favor of resistant vines as the only
means of entire safety, a conclusion at which the best
French authorities have arrived long ago. ‘The testi-
mony of such men as Professor Gustave Foex, M. A.
Millardet, Professor Riley, and other authorities without
number, ought certainly to be conclusive evidence in the
case; but the report of three French experts, which I.
give here in full, establishes a new phase of the question,
namely, that the French varieties, when grafted on
American stocks, produce much more abundantly than
they ever did on their own roots.
CHAPTER LII.
AMERICAN VINES IN FRANCE,
The following extract, from ‘‘The Wine and Spirit
News,” contains about the latest French experience on
the subject of American vines, and is conclusive enough
to convince the most skeptical. It clearly establishes
two points: 1st, The entire resistance of the American
vines to phylloxera; 2nd, The adaptability of the Vinifera
for grafting on the American stock, as it positively states
that the productiveness of the European varieties has
been increased by one-half oyer the original yield :
‘Under the heading ‘Measures for Combating the
Phylloxera,’ a pamphlet has recently been published at
Bordeaux, giving an account of a visit paid by M. A.
Lalande, the deputy for the Gironde, in company with
M.M. Ed. Lawton and T. and P. Skawinski, to the dis-
tricts of the Herault and the Gard, for the purpose of
studying the means employed in those departments with
a view to the destruction of the phylloxera or, where
necessary, reconstituting the vineyards already destroyed.
AND WINE MAKING. 271
This journey, which extended over six days, was under-
taken more especially in the interests of the vine-
growers of the great and important district of the Medoc,
- the centre of the richest vine districts of France.
“Up to the present time, the ravages of the phyllox-
era, although considerable, have not by any means been
so serious in the Medoc as in some of the other wine-
producing districts of France. In the department of the
Gard, for instance, it is stated that out of two hundred
and fifty-five thousand acres of vines, two hundred and
fifty thousand have been destroyed; while in the Herault,
which produced at one time three hundred and thirty
million gallons of wine, and the average annual produc-
tion of which was two hundred and twenty million gal-
lons, the quantity for 181 fell to seventy-seven million
gallons only. From these figures it will readily be seen
that the field for inquiry offered by these two depart-
ments was an extensive one, and the information to be
obtained should be of extreme value as a guide to other
districts, and all the more so, as energetic measures have
already been adopted by the vine-growers of the South,
with a view, if not to save, at least to renew the vines
which constitute for them the chief wealth of their dis-
tricts.
‘* Before proceeding further, we may say that the in-
formation and evidence obtained by M. Lalande and his
fellow-travellers throws a somewhat new light upon the
question of the phylloxera, and seems to show that, seri-
ous as the damage caused by this insect has been, and
still continues to be, the case is not altogether a hopeless
one. Of various remedies, some thousands in number,
suggested for combating the phylloxera, three only at
the present time hold an important position. The credit
of having suggested one of these, that of re-planting by
the American vines, is assigned to M. Laliman, and that
gentleman shares with Baron Thenard, M. Dumas, and
272 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
M. Fancon, the honor of having indicated to the French
vine-growers the three means capable, according to situ-
ation and other circumstances, of resisting the terrible
plague which at one time threatened to annihilate the
vineyards of France—that is to say, the employment of
insecticides, submersion, and American vines.
“‘Of the first remedy we hear but few particulars dur-
ing the journey undertaken by M. Lalande; of the sec-
ond no notice is taken at all; while, on the other hand,
of the results obtained by means of the third, most strik-
ing evidence is given, and, indeed, it is apparent that it
is to the last remedy—that of re-planting with American
vines—that. M. Lalande and his fellow-travelers attach
the greatest importance.
‘*QOn the first day of their excursion the chief interest
seems to have been attracted to some vineyards in the
neighborhood of Beziers, where an extent of more than
five thousand acres of vines had been preserved for some
years past by means of sulphide of carbon, accompanied
each year by manuring over about a third of the extent
of the lands in question. Asa result of this treatment,
it is stated that the vegetation was gocd and normal,
although there were some points where the sulphide of
carbon appeared not to have acted with the same effi-
ciency and success as elsewhere. ‘The failure in these
cases, however, was attributed to the extreme humidity,
which had paralyzed the action of the sulphide, a failure
which, it is hoped, may be remedied in future by means
of drainage.
‘‘Proceeding on the second day to the neighborhood
of Montpeler, a visit was there paid to an estate on
which all the French vines had been destroyed some time
previously, and which now presented the interesting ap-
pearance of an entire reconstitution of the vineyard on a
erand scale by means of American vines planted ten years
previously, and subsequently grafted with the French
AND WINE MAKING. 273
vines, which latter have since offered a perfect resistance
to the attacks of the phylloxera.
- “In the same district another property was found
where the vines, which were of a French variety, had
been grafted either on the Lenoir, Clinton, Taylor, or
Riparia, and were in a splendid state of vegetation, with
an abundant appearance of fruit.
“Similar accounts are given as to a number of other
properties visited on this and the succeeding days, as to
which M. Lalande remarks: ‘It does not appear neces-
sary to give a detailed account of all we have been able
to observe. We limit ourselves, therefore, to remarking
that, after having seen numerous specimens of all varie-
ties of American vines introduced into France, we have
especially noticed some Lenoir and Herbemont vines as
presenting a magnificent appearance, with a fair quantity
of fruit, although, it should be stated, much less so than
was to be found where French vines had been grafted on
American stocks.’ As a proof of this fact, some par-
ticulars are given of a property in the neighborhood of
Montpelier, where all the French vines had been de-
stroyed by the phylloxera. Here some two hundred acres
had been replanted a few years previously with the
American vine called Riparia, and these had been subse-
quently grafted with French vines. The results in this
case were splendid, the vegetation being very fine, and
the quantity of fruit enormous, in fact, all the vines
were loaded with magnificent grapes, and these extremely
, well formed, so much so that the production had in-
-ereased by half as much again per acre on the original
yield.
‘Very much the same results were observed on the last
day of the journey, when visiting the extensive vineyards
of the Duchess Fitz James. This lady has given much
attention to the question of the advantages to be derived
from replanting with American vines, and an article con-
274 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
tributed by her some twelve months ago to the Revue des
deux Mondes, on the subject of American vines, may be
said to have contained, at that time, all the information
to be obtained in regard to the same. Speaking of this
property, M. Lalande says: ‘ We have much admired here
the American vines—principally the Lenoir—cultivated
with a view to direct production, as also the American
vines grafted with French varieties. We have, however,
still more admired, if this were possible, the energy and
intelligence displayed by the Duchess Fitz James in the
reconstitution of her vineyards. Some idea may be
formed of this when we state that she has already suc-
cessfully replanted one thousand two hundred and sev-
enty-five acres of vines, and is making arrangements for
increasing this replanting to the extent of nearly two
thousand acres, thereby inspiring the conviction that the
magnificent vineyards of this district—now almost en-
tirely destroyed—will be able gradually to be reconsti-
tuted by means of American vines.’ .
‘“One other curious piece of information resulted from
this visit. It appears that, it having been found that
vines planted in sandy soils resisted the attacks of phyllox-
era better, these lands, which formerly had been neg-
lected,and were worth scarcely thirty-two shillings per acre,
have now, after they have been planted with vines, in-
creased in value to nearly one hundred times that amount.
Thus in the sandy soil of Aigues-Mortes, the American
vines which have been planted there presented a magnifi-
cent appearance with an abundant show of fruit.
‘From all the information obtained during their visit,
M. Lalande and his fellow-travellers state as the result
of their experience, they found in the departments of the
Herault and the Gard, that the preference was given by
the vine-growers, almost exclusively, to two kinds of
American vines—the Lenoir and the Riparia, although
some other varieties, sueh as the Clinton, the Solonis,
AND WINE MAKING. 275
the York-Madeira, andthe Rupestris, are considered ex-
cellent importations for grafting with French vines.
‘‘'oo much praise cannot be bestowed upon M. La-
lande and those associated with him in this journey, un-
dertaken as it was, entirely in the interests of the French
vine-growers, and if, as appears more than likely, as the
result of their visit, the practice should become general
throughout France of replanting with American vines as
a means of resisting the phylloxera, the destruction of
the French vineyards, which at one time appeared more
than possible, may, it now seenis more than probable, be
averted.”
CHAPTER LIII.
RESTORING AN INFESTED VINEYARD.—FROSTS.
But the question may well be asked: ‘* What shall we
do with an old vineyard, infested by the insect ?”—I have
the management of such a vineyard of about seventy-five
acres, of which about twenty-five have already succumbed,
and I have no faith in the application of any of the insec-
ticides that have been tried, believing that the remedy
will not be lasting, and will cost more than it is worth.
But I believe in the liberai application of manures.
This whole vineyard, the crop of which had already
dwindled down to twenty thousand gallons in 1882, when
I took it in hand, was well manured the next winter. A
part of it was treated with stable manure, a part with gas
lime, and another portion with ammoniacal liquid from
the gas works. I diluted the latter by adding seventy
gallons of water to ten gallons of the liquid, and applied
about half a gallon of the solution to each vine, making
a shallow trench about a foot from the stem. The gas
lime I scattered thinly over the surface of the soil, using
at the rate of half a gallon to each square of eight feet.
276 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
The stable manure was also distributed over the surface
and plowed under. The ammoniacal lquid was again
applied in midsummer, and showed astonishing results
in the increased vigor of the vines and size of the berries.
The gas lime was next in efficacy, and the stable manure
third, but all caused an increased vigor, and though we
lost over five acres again by the insect, we made thirty-
seven thousand gallons of wine, which, deducting the area
destroyed, made our crop double that of the year before.
It is but fair to say, however, that different pruning and
training, as well as better cultivation, contributed largely
to this increase. J intend to follow up this treatment,
and keep the vines alive as long as I can, and to replant
the destroyed part of the vineyard with American vines.
Those already set out show satisfactory growth and
vigor, although planted in the same place where the
Viniferas were destroyed.
In the first part of the book I have already given the
condensed life history of the Phylloxera, and it would
lead too far, were I to go into all the testimony and details
relating to this pest. A word to the wise is sufficient.
We also have the grape vine Fidia here in this State. In
addition to the remedies given on page 112; we apply sul-
phur, which seems to check them. The Thrip or Leaf-
hopper (a dull white and yellow insect) is very abundant
and destructive to the foliage in certain parts of the State.
Spraying in spring with a mixture of sulphur, Buohach
and soft soap, through a fine nozzle manufactured for
the purpose, is a good remedy. In fall, when the grapes
are off, sheep may be turned among the vines, which will
eat the leaves and weeds, thereby destroying millions of
the insects, and enrich the ground by their droppings.
None of the diseases and insects found here, are such
serious obstacles to grape culture, as the unfavorable
climate and the manifold diseases present to the grape
growers of the States east of the Rocky Mountains. In
— se
AND WINE MAKING. 207
fact, the ease with which grapes and all other fruits have
been grown here, has engendered in many of the old
grape growers, a disposition to ease and slovenliness; and
has been the cause of a great deal of poor management
and carelessness, of which poor results, in quality and
quantity, were the natural: consequences. ~Many have
rushed heedlessly into grape culture, without any fitness
for the task. ‘These will quit it after a few years of
seemingly unfavorable results, and the sooner they drop
from the ranks, the better it will be for the ultimate suc-
cess of the cause.
FROSTS.
As remarked before, the greatest care should be taken
to avoid frosty locations. But if any one is so unfortunate -
as to have a vineyard subject to frosts, he can do some-
thing to avoid the calamity. It is a universal practice to
place pans holding gas tar in different parts of the vine-
yard, which is lighted about three o’clock in the morning,
and makes a very dense smoke. Any other material that
will make a thick smoke, may also be used. While smoke
may be a partial protection if the thermometer falls but
a degree or so below the freezing point, I have little faith
in its efficacy when the temperature falls still lower. I
believe more in longer pruning, as a means to guard
against total loss. A grape grower in Sonoma valley, who
has a very frosty situation, obtained a fair crop in 1882,
when neighbouring vineyards were badly damaged, by
pruning his vines late in May, when all danger of frost
had passed. ‘The upper buds of the vines, which had
started before the frost, had all been killed, while the
lower ones remained dormant. When he pruned back to
these, they started, and produced a fair crop, but as the
grapes were very late, they did not ripen fully, and being
Zinfandel, made a very acid wine, hardly salable. He
278 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
has followed the same course this season, and will have a
late and imperfect crop again, when his neighbors, who
pruned at the usual time, have a fine and abundant crop.
I think that a crop may be secured in such locations
by somewhat longer pruning, leaving spurs of three to
four buds, instead of two buds, then the two upper buds
will start first, the lower ones of course remaining dor-
mant. If there is no frost, so much the better, the first
shoots will then ripen their fruit, and any superfluous
shoots may be rubbed out when all danger is past. If a
frost should take the first shoots, then the lower, dormant
buds will push, and certainly produce earlier and better
fruit, than they will do if the vine is first weakened by
losing all its leaves and shoots at a time when they are
needed for elaborating the sap, and when excessive flow of
sap and bleeding are inevitable. This seems to me a
simple and natural preventive of total loss by frost, and I
advise my readers to try it, hoping that it will prevent
this unpleasant calamity.
MARKETING GRAPES.
This is a very important business in this State,and many
who follow it find it more profitable than making wine.
Carloads upon carloads are shipped East, until California
grapes can be found in every market of consequence. ‘The
varieties used for shinping are mostly such as havea large
handsome berry and bunch, and meaty or solid flesh, with
rather thick skin, so that they will carry well. The most
popular varieties are the Flame Tokay and Muscat of
Alexandria, the first a large lilac berry and a very heavy,
compact bunch, sometimes weighing seven to nine pounds,
the latter a large greenish-white berry, long, loose bunch,
with a strong Muscat flavor. This is also the principal
raisin grape. The Rose of Peru, also called Black Prince,
is shipped considerably, though it does not bear carriage
so well. The earliest grapes shipped are, generally, the
AND WINE MAKING. 279
Golden Chasselas and Sweetwater. The Emperor, a late
grape of handsome purple color, and Black Morocco, with
the Cornuchon, are also shipped to some extent. I hear
of contracts made for whole vineyards of these varieties,
at from sixty to sixty-five dollars per ton, the buyer paying
freight. They are generally packed in boxes of twenty-five
pounds each, and the same directions for packing given
in the first part of this yolume will apply here.
CHAP DAR iy.
RAISIN MAKING.
The making of raisins is a business assuming vast
proportions, and California raisins seem to find a ready
sale at remunerative prices, when well handled and cured.
Many engage in this branch of grape culture, who have
concientious scruples against making wine, and even
ladies have resorted to it as a pleasant and profitable
means of support. Miss M. F. Austin, a maiden lady, is
manager of the Hedgerow vineyard, near Fresno, and
cultivates thirty acres of grapes for making raisins. Messrs.
Briggs Bros, have several hundred acres near Dayvisville
and Woodland, Yolo Co., exclusively in raisin grapes,
mostly in Muscats, Muscatella and Gordo Blanco. The
Muscats are vines of very peculiar growth, branching close
to or from the ground, and have very stocky, short-jointed
wood, and they are generally grown very low, most of the
branches resting on the ground. ‘The seedless grapes, of
which the Sultana is the most prominent and promising,
require long pruning to produce well. The White’
Corinth, smaller than the Sultana, has been grown in this
State with varying success; the general impression being
that it is not sufficiently productive. Very fine samples of
the dried fruit and the grapes of both this and the Sul-
tana were shown at the last Viticultural Convention, and
280 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
as the Sultana is also an excellent wine grape, there can
be no risk in planting it largely.
As Iam not experienced in raisin making, I insert here
an article by Mr. R. B. Blowers, from the Report of the
State Board of Viticulture for 1880. Mr. B. has made rai-
sin making a speciality in Yolo Co. and has been very suc-
cessful. He has himself constructed a very practical
dryer in which he finishes up the drying begun in the
field. The working is described in a very practical manner.
The following is the Report of Mr. R. B. Blowers,
Commissioner for the Sacramento District:
‘* Raisin making being one of the important interests in
this viticulturual district, I will explain the California
method. Raisins are made from the Muscatella, Gordo
Blanco, and Muscat of Alexandria, preferably of the
former; also a seedless raisin, highly esteemed, made from
the seedless Sultana. The grapes should be allowed to
remain on the vine until quite ripe, and show a yellowish
or golden color, and being more translucent than when
too green. Then they should be carefully picked and
placed upon a drying tray (usually two by three feet in
size), and exposed, with an inclination toward the sun,
in some convenient place, generally between the rows in |
the vineyard, or in some contiguous open land. After
haying been exposed a sufficient time to become about
half dried, they are turned once in this manner, viz. : two
workmen taking an empty tray, place it upon a full one, -
holding them firmly together, and with aswinging motion
turn them over, and replace the now turned grapes in
their former position. The turning should be done before
the dew is quite off of the grapes in early morning; then,
when the grapes have become so dry as to lose their ashy
appearance, some being a little too green and some quite
dry enough, they are, after removing those entirely too
green, slid from the tray into large sweat boxes, having
a thick sheet of paper between about every twenty-five or.
i Oe a ee
AND WINE MAKING. 281
thirty pounds of raisins, and then removed to the store-
room, where they should remain two weeks or more.
When ready to pack, it will be found that the too moist
ones have parted with their surplus moisture, which has
been absorbed by the stems and drier raisins. The stems.
are now tough and the raisins soft and ready to pack.
They are carefully placed in packing frames made of iron
or steel. ‘The large and fair ones being placed carefully
in the bottom of the frames, the surplus stems and im-
perfect berries cut away, then the average raisins are
arranged in and weighed, placing five pounds in each
frame, pressed enough to make them firm in the frame,
but not enough to break the skin. , They are then
passed to an inspector, who examines the exposed side of
the raisins, removing any imperfect ones, then placing
the wrapper paper on the frame, holds it in place with a
wooden or steel plate, turns it bottom up, drops the left
end into the box, slides the plate quickly from under the
frame, and it drops into the box, then pressing slightly
upon the movable bottom of the frame, the frame is re-
moved; the bottom of the frame is then pressed more
firmly, to cause the raisins to fill the space formerly
occupied by the sides and ends of the frame; then it is
removed, and the face of the latter is exposed, all imper-
fect berries or too wet ones are removed, and all vacan-
cies or hollows filled by large, loose raisins. The label of
the proprietor is then placed on the face; the ends of the
wrapper, and then the sides are folded over, the box cover
nailed on, and they are ready for market. —
«“The complaint is sometimes made that the California
raisins have tough skins, too large and too many seeds,
lose fiavor in cooking, lose their bloom, and do not keep
well. The most of these objections arise from an 1mper-
fect knowledge of the best varieties from which to make
raisins. If Californians would confine themselves to varie-
ties which centuries of experience have proved to be best
282 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
in Kurope, there would be more satisfaction in the result.
Cultivation, irrigation, local climate, kind of soil, and
exposure to sun, all have an influence in modifying the
characteristics of any one variety. Virgin soil and vigor
of vine may make the seeds fuller, as it does in the cereals,
but it should not, other things being equal, make the
skins thicker, but the contrary. ;
‘‘As a soil for raisins, a rich, sandy loam is preferred;
the climate should be warm; the soil moist; winter irri-
gation in average years is quite as important as summer
in our dry valleys. For safety against many kinds of
insect pests, the phylloxera especially, a location is desir-
able where water is plenty and evenness of land surface
permits winter submersion. In such favorable locations
a larger berry, thinner skin, better yield, etc., will be the
result. The vines are planted eight by eight feet in many
locations, but growers of the greatest experience prefer a
greater distance apart; some plant eight feet by ten feet,
some ten by ten feet, thus giving greater vigor to each
vine, enabling it to resist enemies of all kinds more surely.
‘‘ Many hundred tons of shipping grapes are sent Hast
from this district to all principal markets in the United
States. The Emperor, Tokay, Black Morocco, and Mus-
cat family are most liked for the Hastern market.
‘«Trrigation is a very important factor in the success of
the fruit grower, but if the situation is good in other
respects, and no ditch water can be secured, it is found
that in many parts of the State an unfailing supply lies
but a small way beneath the surface in gravel ridges.
Former watercourses having been filled with gravel, the
surface stream diverted sometimes many miles away, leave
quite a large flow of water in the gravel. This being
tapped by a well, the only equipment needed is a straw-
burner engine and rotary pump, and one hundred or more
acres can be irrigated with economy, insuring a good
profit and a pleasant home.
AND WINE MAKING.— 283
**In an experiment made recently in Yolo County, after
_ having submerged the entire vineyard for nearly two
weeks, such a well being on the place, the ditch water
was shut off from twenty acres of the vineyard, and
while the water still covered the entire surface to the
extent of over nineteen acres, the pump was run five
hours, supplying the seepage and raising the water five-
eighths of an inch over the entire surface, showing that in
twenty-four hours three inches in excess of the seepage
could be added to nineteen acres after the ground had
been saturated.
**Cost of planting and cultivating, irrigating, labor,
subsistence, etc., including total expense for first year, is
from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre, if thoroughly
well done; second year, fifteen to twenty dollars; third
year, many varieties, if well cared for, yield a profit; if
not well attended to it may take a year or two longer.
Nothing pays better than care, and nothing loses more
surely than negligence in vine growing. In pruning, the
habit of each variety grown should be closely studied. In
grafting great care should be taken to choose stock with
wood of similar growth; if the variety desired is a coarse
wood and large grower, a similar stock should be selected;
_if wood is of fine texture and slow growth, a wood of fine
‘texture should be selected as grafting stock. As fruit
growing is destined to be the pursuit of a large portion of
the agriculturists of this State, and their experience shows
a yearly increase of insect pests, doing great damage to
the various branches of the industry, a State entomolo-
gist, whose duty should be to study the habits of all in-
jurious insects and assist in devising means for their ex-'
termination, seems to be an actual necessity; also, the
enactment of some law compelling those careless of their
own interests to keep their fruit farms from breeding in-
sects for the contagion of surrounding districts.”
284 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
CHAPTER LV.
WINE MAKING IN CALIFORNIA.
Wine making is much more simple and less laborious
here than in Missouri and the Eastern States, as our
dry summers always mature the grapes sufficiently to
make a good, salable wine, if well handled in ferment-
ing. The practices of Gall and Petiot are neither useful,
necessary, nor profitable here, where grape-juice, if proper
varieties are selected, is perfect enough to make a good
wine, and is cheaper than additions of sugar and water.
In my practice here, during two vintages, very dissimilar
in their product, I have not found the least difficulty in
making a good, sound wine from every grape I have han-
dled; my wines were always fully through fermentation
in less than six days, and clear enough to be marketed
in six weeks from the time they were made. ‘They were
shipped as far Kast as Connecticut, when not more than
a year old, and arrived in perfect condition.
Let it be understood, therefore, that all the practices
given in the following pages relate only to pure grape-
juice, and the wine made from it. I am indeed glad
that I am making wine in a State where all these manip-
ulations, necessary as they are in a less favorable cli- -
mate, are entirely superfluous.
The directions about the construction of cellars and
fermenting rooms, as given in Part 3 of the book, will
also, for the most part, apply here, although it is not
necessary, in this temperate climate, to have the fer-
menting room under ground. On this place we have a
three-story wine-house, with a capacity of sixty thousand
gallons, which admirably answers all purposes. It is
built of stone, forty by sixty feet; the lower story is
mostly under ground, and twelve feet high, not arched,
but with a double floor, which is supported by a double
_— Se ee
ae ee eee
:
a
.
AND WINE MAKING. 285
row of strong wooden pillars twelve feet from the wall.
This gives room for four rows of one thousand gallon
-easks, one on each side and two in the middle, with suffi-
cient room between for pumping and racking. We have
here two rows of six casks on each side, one row of five
casks across at the further end, and two rows of five
casks each in the middle, making a capacity of twenty-
seven thousand gallons, to which we can easily add five
thousand more by putting smaller casks on top. This
keeps an even temperature of about sixty degrees, sum-
mer and winter. The second story is entirely above
ground, ten feet high, and with the same capacity as the
lower. This is used as the fermenting room proper, and
contains two rows of casks of one thousand gallons capa-
city each, in the middle, with smaller casks and ferment-
ing tanks on each side. The third story is really only a
half story, and contains stemmers, crushers, and presses,
The grapes are handed up in boxes over a platform at
the back end of the building, which is built into the
east side of a hill. The upper story contains also some
fermenting vats for white grapes, grape boxes, and other
implements used in wine-making, and it serves as a shop
In which to make cuttings, etc., i winter. The presses
are connected by hose through holes in the floor (which
is also supported in a similar manner as the lower one)
with the casks and fermenting vats below, so that any of
the casks on the second or first floor can be filled directly
from the press.
The process I have followed here has been, to ferment
the true white-wine grapes, such as Chasselas Fontaine-
bleau and Violet, Victoria Chasselas, Muscatell, ete.,
when stemmed and crushed, for about twenty-four hours
on the skins, then press them, and run the juice into
casks in the second story, where it finishes fermentation.
The average temperature there is about sixty-five to sev-
enty-five degrees.
286 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
When I make white wine from Mission and Malvasia,
as I have had to do here, as these have a good deal of
color in the skins, [ stem and crush the grapes, and then
press immediately, but very lightly. This juice is run
from the press into the thousand-gallon casks on the sec-
ond floor, and finishes its fermentation there; this is
generally over in less than a week. The remainder of
the grapes is then thrown into the fermenting vats, also
on the second floor, and ferments there until the mass
begins to cool off, being stirred and thoroughly mixed
about three times a day, so as to have an even tempera-
ture in all parts of the fluid. It has generally finished
its violent fermentation and become quiet in four to five
days; it is then pressed, and the young wine run into
the casks on the first floor, where it matures rapidly, and
is generally ready for racking in a few weeks. ‘The true
red-wine grapes, such as Zinfandel, Burgundy, etc., are
stemmed and crushed, and all put into fermenting vats
in the second story. Many take the first juice from the
Zinfandel and make white wine from it. This is mostly
done to obtain deeper color in the red wine, but our vine-
yards yield color enough, and I think it deprives the
wine of its best qualities, while I have never yet seen a
white Zinfandel wine which I could call first class.
The whole mass is stirred and turned several times
every day, and pressed as soon as the must has lost its
sweetness and assumed instead the bitter taste character-
istic of young red wines.
The grapes should be thoroughly ripe, but not over
ripe. This is easily tested by crushing a few bunches,
pressing the juice through a cloth, and testing it with
the sacharometer and thermometer. ‘The thermometer
should be at sixty degrees if inserted in the must. The
sacharometer mostly in use here is Balling’s; twenty-five
degrees of Ballings’ is about equal to one hundred of Oech-
sle’s, or one to four. Each two degrees of Balling will
Phas i.
AND WINE MAKING. 287
be one per cent. of alcohol in fermented and clarified
wine. .
Here again it is absolutely necessary that you should
know the material from which you make wine. The
Chasselas varieties, for instance, contain but about three
pro mille acid, when the must indicates twenty-five
on Balling’s scale, and will make a livelier wine when
taken if they show but twenty-two or twenty-three, than
if allowed to go up to twenty-five, or even higher. The
Riesslings, Sauvignon Vert, etc., may be allowed to ripen
to twenty-five, as they contain more acid, although they
will also make a good wine if taken at twenty-two or
twenty-three. None of our light wines ought to show
higher than twenty-five, except perhaps the Zinfandel,
which contains more acid than any other Vinifera I know.
It must be very ripe to come up to twenty-five, and then
contains four and a half to five pro mille acid. When in
that stage, many of its berries are already shrivelled, as
it ripens unevenly; as it colors early, many wine-mak-
ers are led into the belief that it is ripe enough, and
gather it, when it should really hang a week longer. If
well ripened, on good soils, it makes a very fine claret,
but it is so universally grown and planted in all locations,
and often handled so ignorantly, that we find a great deal
more poor than good Zinfandel. But can we wonder at
this, when a paper which claims to be the leading organ
of the grape growers, advocates ignorance in its columns,
says that chemistry and science have nothing to do with
wine making, and do more harm than good ?
It is this ignorance among the great mass of our wine-
makers that has been the cause, to a great extent, of so
much poor and sour wine. The idea prevailed that the
ripest grapes made the best wine, and few were aware of
the fact that there is a limit, a time when each variety
should be taken, when the sugar and acid are in the
proper proportion, and that at this period fermentation
288 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
will commence quickly, and go through perfectly, if other
conditions are favorable. But take the Mission or Chas-
selas at thirty, or even above, and then have indifferent
fermenting rooms, and you cannot make a good, sound,
dry wine; but, to make anything out of it, it must be
fortified with brandy to make sweet wine. The great
trouble in making dry wines in this State may be summed
up in the following causes: Varieties of grapes which
will not make fine wine; gathering and working the
grapes at the wrong time; imperfect fermenting vats and
rooms; negligence and slovenliness during fermentation;
and improper handling afterwards.
Two of the leading grapes, those which produced most
abundantly, were the Mission, originated and first distri-
buted by the Jesuit Fathers of the Mission St. Gabriel, and
the so-called Black Malvasia, and most of the older vine-
yards were largely composed of these. Neither is a fine
wine grape; the Mission has little flavor, but developes
a great deal of sugar and tannin. Its white wine
will, with age, develop a certain sherry-flavor, but
is harsh, heady, and heavy, affecting the nerves of
those who drink it freely, and its red wine has only
roughness, while it lacks flavor and that agreeable
acid so essential in good claret. The Black Malvasia (so-
called, though it is no Malvasia) is a large, pulpy, black
grape, with a heavy bunch, and large, oblong berry. Itis
a good table grape. It has not color enough to be worked
alone into claret or port, but the first juice is made into
white wine, which is passable, but has no distinguishing
qualities or fineness. The red wine is said to make about as
good port, in quantity, if worked into it the first season,
as has as yet been produced; but as a dry wine, though
passable the first year, it developes a very disagreeable
flavor with age, and contains too much acid. Most of
the so-called California hocks and clarets were formerly
made of these two grapes, and even the best of them
> 2 el te et oy
ee eT ee
a ee eee ee
AND WINE MAKING. 289
were not choice or fine wines. Their culture should
therefore be entirely abandoned, except, perhaps, for
liqueur wines, and even for these, | think we now have
better varieties.
I have already alluded to picking each variety at its
proper time. ‘This should be done when the grape is
ripe enough, but not too ripe. This time is when it con-
tains sugar enough to make a wine varying from eleven
to twelve per cent. of alcohol, or when the sacharometer
indicates from twenty-two to twenty-five Balling, and
from three and a half to four and a half pro mille acid.
It will then make a lively and pleasant wine, agreeable to
the palate, and of good bouquet, as wines deficient in
acid cannot develop bouquet. ‘This will necessitate some
experimenting with the different, varieties, but a little
practice with the tongue will soon enable any man of or-
dinary intelligence to make a close guess, and the instru-
ments will determine positively. No doubt we can also
derive great benefit from blending different varieties of
grapes; for instance, the Zinfandel has flavor and a
sprightly acid, but is rather thin in color and taste.
The Lenoir will, I think, supply both of these deficien-
cies, and I hope still more from Norton’s Virginia and
Cynthiana. Each locality will have its own special varie-
ties in future, which it will produce in the greatest per-
fection, and which are suited to its soil and climate. It
is generally believed that the southern part of the State
will not make as good lght, dry wines as the north,
while it will excel in the heavy, sweet wines. While I
concede the latter as the natural consequence of a longer
and warmer season, which will develop more sugar and
body, I am not at all sure of the former. On a recent
visit to the south, I found some excellent dry wines
made from the Burger and Blaue Elben, by Mr. Rose
and others, and also some very fine wines made from
mixed white grapes in several cellars, also very fair clar-
13
~_
290 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
ets. The Burger does not ripen perfectly with us, being
a tremendous bearer, and late, it makes a rather light,
acid wine, of a negative character. At the south it
ripens fully, and makes a fuller wine, with pronounced
bouquet. Why cannot other varieties be picked and
worked there when just ripe enough, and thus make good,
dry, sprightly wine from them? I would not be afraid
to try it, with strong hopes of entire success.
Imperfect fermenting vats and rooms are certainly the
cause of a great many poor wines. I would have the fer-
menting vats rather wide and low than high and narrow,
as they generally are here. Say five feet high and six
feet wide, or still wider. They are here generally made
of red wood, which makes very good fermenting vats,
though I do not think it is fit for casks to keep wine in,
as it is too apt to leak. A general practice here is to
have false bottoms, or rather tops to the vats, perforated
with holes, to hold the skins and pomace under the
fluid when fermenting, and through which the fluid bub-
bles constantly. Experience has taught me to discard
these altogether, as the mass, when thrown in, will re-
main cooler at the bottom than at the top, where it
comes in contact with the air. The consequence is, that
fermentation commences, and is more violent at the top,
where it often is at nearly blood heat when it is yet
cool below. My practice is, to press the pomace down
frequently with wooden pestles, and mix it thoroughly
with the fluid below, so as to equalize the temperature as
much as possible, when I will have a thorough, steady
fermentation in the whole mass. I thus avoid that un-
pleasant, burnt taste generally called ‘‘tank taste,” which
is found in so many of our clarets especially, and fer-
mentation has never been stopped or interrupted by a
slight change in the temperature, as is the case in many
other establishments.
The fermenting room should be so constructed that
AND WINE MAKING. 291
the temperature will not fluctuate too much. The cli-
mate in this State is peculiar, the days are sometimes
very hot, while the nights are nearly always cool. Nearly
all of the fermenting rooms are simply board sheds, with
. only one thickness of boards between the inner and outer
atmosphere, so that the changes inside are almost as sud-
den as those outside. ‘This should not be; if the fer-
menting room cannot be built of stone, it should at
least have double walls of boards, with the intermediate
space filled with sawdust, spent tan, or other non-con-
ducting materials, so that it will keep as even a tempera-
ture as possible. Sudden changes interrupt fermenta-
tion, and are very injurious. Negligence and slovenli-
ness during the whole process of wine making has a great
deal to do with a poor product. Everything, from the
boxes in which the grapes are picked to the cask in
which the young wine is to perfect itself, should be clean;
as should the crusher, press, fermenting vat, and the
whole building, which should also be well ventilated, so
that the air is pure. I have seen many so-called wineries,
which looked more like slaughter houses than the cleanly
establishments in which wine, the noblest fluid which
God has given to man, is to be made and perfected. If
mould and dirt are left on the fermenting vats from one
year to the other, until the air is sour and fetid with the
smell of decay, how can we expect wine, the most sus-
ceptible liquid that we can handle, to taste and smell
fresh and pure? Before using the vats for ferment-
ing, they should all be washed with a solution of sal soda,
and the floor and press-room should be scrubbed every
few days during wine making. Casks can easily be kept
clean and pure by fumigating with sulphur, when empty,
but before using they should be washed to free them
from the taste and smell of sulphur, which also tends to
prevent fermentation.
Improper handling afterwards, also has a great in-
292 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
fluence on the wine. The casks, as soon as fermen-
tation has ceased, should be filled up to the bungs, and
clean bungs driven in lightly at first, and firmly when the
wine has become quite still. As soon as clear, wine should
be racked into clean casks, as described in the proper
place. Smaller casks are very difficult to clean, as the
lees are so adhesive, yet it is important that they
should be all taken out. It is best to open the cask, and
brush it inside, but if a cooper is not at hand to do this,
they may be cleaned by putting a small chain through the
bung-hole, and then shaking the cask well, with a few
buckets of clear, pure water; this should be repeated until
the water runs out clear. Use as little sulphur as possible;
some are in the habit of sulphuring strongly every time
they rack or ship the wine. This gives an unpleasant
smell and taste, and such sulphured wine is apt to cause
headache. It is an old exploded idea that the lees are
the mother of the wine, and that it should remain on them
to gain strength. The lees are the excrements of the
wine, and the sooner they are separated from it, the better.
Generally the young wines are here sold to the merchant
within the first six months. Of course they should be
racked again before shipping, and if not sold, they
should be racked again the second time in March.
I am aware that I conflict in my views on fermentation
with those advanced by Mr. Arpath Haraszthy, who dis-
courses upon fermentation at every meeting of the State
Viticultural Convention, and is considered an authority
on the subject. He claims that the finest white wines, —
such as Riessling, etc., should also be fermented on the
skins, putting perforated heads on top, to keep down the
skins. Ido not claim to be an authority, nor do I believe
in authorities. We are all seekers after truth, and each
honest opinion, supported by successful practice, is en-
titled to respect. Practice has taught me that white wine,
fermented on the skins, becomes harsh and rough, losing
AND WINE MAKING. 293
all the agreeable smoothness and fineness which we ad-
mire in fine white wines, and I have never been able to
find as fine wines made by Mr. Haraszthy’s method, as I
have seen from those who make their wines in a similar
way to mine.
| WINE MAKING APPARATUS.
Grapes are gathered here in boxes holdiug about forty
pounds each, which each gatherer, when filled, carries
out to the avenues between the blocks, from where they
are hauled to the cellars in wagons. Boxes were formerly
made very loosely, so that a great deal of juice was wasted,
but they are now manufactured with bottoms of a single
board, and well nailed, so that there is but little leakage.
The crushers, stemmers, and presses in the smaller estab-
lishments are similar to those described in the third part
of the book. The large establishments, however, use
crushers and stemmers, as well as various kinds of hydrau-
lic presses, which do an immense amount of work, with
comparatively few hands, and do it in a very thorough
manner. ‘hey are generally run by steam power, and will
work up from eighty to one hundred tons of grapes per
day, if run to their full capacity.
Cooperage of all dimensions is now made in the State,
although most of the material for oak casks comes from
the East in shooks and is set up by the coopers here, as
California oak is too brittle and coarse-grained to work to
advantage. Casks of one thousand to two thousand gal-
lons are worth about ten cents per gallon. The casks for
shipping East are generally so-called puncheons, holding
about one hundred and sixty gallons, and are rauch
cheaper, costing about three dollars and fifty cents each.
LIQUEUR WINES.
It may be expected that I should say something about
liqueur wines, which form a considerable part of the pro-
294 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
duct of the State, especially of the southern portions.
They may be divided into three principal classes, Port, |
Sherry, and Angelica. The first two have mostly been
made from the Malvasia, and Mission grapes, as the
latter develops a sherry flavor in its white wine when ib
becomes older; the last is chiefly made from Muscat of
Alexandria. As I have never made them to any extent,
my readers must not expect me to go into detail, for while
I am willing to tell all I know, I do not like to speak
about anything of which I do not know, or know at most
simply from hearing. Sherries and ports, in fact, all
three of these, are fortified with grape brandy, and the
first two cooked or heated in separate rooms, built for the
purpose. Angelica is made by adding enough grape brandy
to the sweet must to arrest, or rather prevent, fermenta-
tion, and the lees and other impurities precipitated by
an addition of quick lime, which clears it within forty-
eight hours. Sherries are made from white wines, or
rather the first run of the Mission grape, as the object here
is to make a light-colored wine with a peculiar flavor and
great body. Port is made from red wine, as it should
contain, besides deep color, a certain sweetness and
alcoholic strength, a large amount of tannin. I do not
pretend to be a judge of, nor an admirer of these wines,
and must leave it to others who are, to give a more full
description of them and the methods by which they are
made. A very learned essay by one of the first experts,
Mr. Pohndorff, who has followed the business in Spain,
and described the process of making and maturing natu-
ral sherries, impressed me with the idea that our Ameri-
can people are too impatient to wait ten years before a
sherry can be fully matured and sold, and seemed to me
about the strongest argument against making it here in
that way, which I have ever listened to.
AND WINE MAKING. 295
“SPARKLING WINES.
There is at present, I believe, but one firm in the State
_ Who make sparkling wine by the old or natural process, fer-
menting in the bottles, and I have heard many conflicting
opinions as to the success they meet with. While some
think highly of the Eclipse champagne, others rate it
far below the best brands of French champagnes, but I
think upon the whole, it meets with very ready sale.
There is a good deal of sparkling wine made in the quick
or artificial way, by impregnation with carbonie acid gas,
which is sold much cheaper, and, as far as I am able to
judge, is a very healthy, harmless, and enlivening bey-
erage. I do not pretend to be a nice judge of the article,
but I have compared some of the ‘‘ Eclipse Extra Dry”
with carbonated wine, made here, and especially with
some made in New York, from California wine, shipped
there, and my preference was for the last; nor have I ever
felt any bad effects from the use of these carbonated
wines. At any rate, I think the crusade led by some per-
sons against these carbonated wines, to petition Congress to
impose a special tax on them, a very injudicious measure.
{f the sparkling wine manufactured by them is really so
much superior to carbonated wine, it would seem to need
no special legislation to foster and protect it.
THE MAKING OF BRANDY.
Brandy-making is another important branch of Gali-
fornia grape industry. To show how important it is, I
need only mention the fact that one firm made one hun-
dred and fifteen thousand gallons of brandy last year,
with four hundred and fifty thousand gallons of wine,
and that all this brandy is already disposed of.
While I am no admirer of distilled liquors, and do not
claim to know much about them, yet I believe, as long
as they are consumed to the extent that they are in this
296 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
country, pure grape brandy would be more wholesome to
use than the often poisonous and adulterated liquors now
sold as whiskies and brandies. So far, most of the brandy
has been distilled from the pomace and lees of wine,
which, as connoisseurs say, will not make as smooth and
delicate an article as that made from the wine of certain
varieties of grapes, the Folle Blanche, for instance, which
is the great Cognac grape of France. Yet while this may
be the case, certain manufacturers have already gained a
name for their brandies. Gen. Naglee at St. ‘Jose has
taken great pride in ageing his brandy, and it ranks very
high. Mr. Geo. West, of Stockton, has produced a very
delicately flavored and fine brandy from West’s Prolific,
and I suppose that this industry will perhaps progress to
perfection as rapidly as the wine industry. More care in
its manufacture, and better material, will bring better
results as its natural consequence.
CHAPTER LVI.
EXTENT OF GRAPE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA.
The extent of grape growing in the State can hardly be
estimated, as there are no official data at hand that I am
aware of. The planting of new vineyards progresses at
so rapid a rate that it is difficult for any one to even ap-
proximate to it. When we look at only a few of the
largest plantations, we may form an idea of how rapidly
these plantings are progressing.
Ex-Governor Leland Stanford, at his vineyards at
Vina, found seventy-five acres in vines, planted by his pre-
decessor, Mr. Gerke, to which were added one thousand
two hundred and fifty acres of new plantations in 1882, and
one thousand five hundred acres last spring, and I think
’
AND WINE MAKING. 29%
the intention is to add one thousand to one thousand two
hundred acres per annum for several years to come. The
Natoma Water Co., at Folsom, Sacramento County, had
something like six hundred acres, mostly in table grapes,
and haye added one thousand two hundred acres last
' spring, with the intention of adding as many more next
spring, for which the plants are already rooted in cutting
beds. Mr. Horatio P. Livermore, the business man-
ager, is a very intelligent and painstaking gentleman,
and imported many of the choicest wine grapes of Spain
and Portugal last spring, besides growing twenty thou-
sand Lenoir for their own planting. Messrs. Stern &
Rose, at San Gabriel, Los Angeles County, have seven
hundred and fifty acres in vines, and made at their mam-
moth establishment last year, four hundred and fifty
thousand gallons of wine, and one hundred and fifteen
thousand gallons of brandy. The San Gabriel Wine Co.,
Mr. De Barth Shorb, manager, has one thousand five
hundred acres of vineyards surrounding their new build-
ings, one of which has a capacity of one hundred and
twenty-five by two hundred and sixty feet, and the other
of one hundred and seventy-five by two hundred and
sixteen feet, and three stories high, are capable of work-
ing up two hundred tons of grapes per day. Messrs.
Kohler and Frohling, the pioneer wine makers of the
State, have an immense establishment at Los Angeles,
where they make mostly sweet wines and brandy, and
another in Sonoma County, of one hundred and fifty
acres of bearing vineyards, where mostly light wines are
made, and three large cellars in San Francisco, Vine-
yards of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred
and fifty acres are quite frequent all over the State, and
Napa Valley presents, from the town of Napa up to Cal-
istoga, a distance of about thirty miles, an area of almost
continuous vineyards. These extend through the whole
breadth of the valley, and far up among the slopes of the
298 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
mountains, wherever a spot could be found congenial to
the vine, and not too difficult to reach. Among the
leading producers in this beautiful valley are G. Groez-
inger, Yountville, with several hundred acres in bearing,
H. W. Crabb, Oakville, three hundred and fifty acres,
G. Niebaum, Rutherford, Chas. Krug, Mrs. J. C. Wein-
berger, Wm. Scheffler, Beringer Bros., and others. The
total amount of wine made in sixty-four cellars last year
in Napa County, was two million six hundred and forty-
five thousand one hundred gallons. I have no data for
Sonoma County for that year. Its product in 1880 was
estimated by the commissioner of that district, Mr. J. de
Turk, one of the heaviest producers and wine makers, at
two million one hundred and eighty thousand gallons,
and the number of acres of bearing vines at seven thou-
sand, with three thousand not bearing. Mr. L. J. Rose,
commissioner of the Los Angeles district, estimates the
yield for the same year at three million eight hundred
thousand gallons for the district, and the value of it over
a million of dollars. Mr. Arpad Haraszthy, President of
the Board, estimates the wine yield of the year 1880 at
between ten and twelve million gallons, and its value at
three million three hundred and twelve thousand five
hundred dollars. Since that time, immense plantings
have been made, but I can find no data upon which to
base an estimate of the increased yield. As the general
yield of the crop is light this year, it may be safe to esti-
mate it at about the same as in 1880, though it should
be at least one-fourth larger, were the crop the same, and
should we have as abundant a crop in 1883 as in 1880,
the entire production of the State would come up to
twenty million gallons. It is very much to be regretted
that we have no later estimates, and it would seem that,
if they could be made in 1880, they could be made in
the following years. Such, however, seems not to be the
case, although the efforts of Mr. Gardner, editor of the
:
2
‘
$
$
q
¥
}
By
AND WINE MAKING. 299
St. Helena “Star,” who, with commendable enterprise,
gathers a full report of the product of Napa County each
year, shows how easily it might be done.
During the last few years, however, grape culture has
advanced with giant strides, stimulated, no doubt, by
the gratifying success and the good prices obtained for
viticultural products. Here, in Napa and Sonoma coun-
ties, it would seem, indeed, as if the prices paid for
grapes, for the purpose of wine making, would hardly
allow a living profit to the wine makers and dealers. Last
year the prices ranged from twenty-five dollars per ton,
paid for Mission, to thirty-five dollars per ton for Zin-
fandel, Riessling, Chasselas, and other finer varieties, and
this year the finer varieties seem to bring the same price,
while Mission and Malvasia have gone down to twenty
dollars per ton, unless extra well ripened and heavy, to
fit them for vorts and sherries. When we take into ac-
count that a ton of grapes generally yields about one
hundred and thirty gallons, and that the young wines of
last year have not generally sold at over twenty-eight
cents per gallon, at an average, to the dealers in San
Francisco. I, for one, can not see how the wine makers
can afford present prices, and make any profit. That it
is a very profitable business to the growers is apparent,
if we figure up the cost of establishing a vineyard in full
bearing, planted with resistant roots, to make it perma-
nent. This may be estimated as follows:
Preparing land, plowing, harrowing, and rolling,
Met Aeree ak te eee A Fee ee Se $ 5.00
600 Riparia vines, including freight... --. .-. - 25.00
Marna. lame 2. oe. 8 2 5.00
Muleivation, 41fat Yeats ia. 2 Set 10.00
Cultivation, second year-_---.-------------- shee 10.00
Graiting, including cost of cions_...---------.- 5.00
een Maier Thigh PITRE ae ee ee IE Ce Le OS 10.00
Cultivation and pruning, third year__-__-------- 20.00
Cultivation and pruning, fourth year-_---_------- 20.00
809 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
This year, the fourth, the vineyard ought to bear, say
three tons to the acre; calculating at the present prices
for choice grapes, this would pay for all the labor up to
this time, and leave the vineyard free of debt to its pro-
prietor, except original cost of land, and interest on cap-
ital; this can not be calculated, because land for vine-
yards in these counties brings all kinds of prices. Good
vineyard lands in the neighborhood of St. Helena and
Rutherford may now be estimated at two hundred and
fifty dollars per acre, while nearly as good locations can
be had, but not exactly in the ‘‘grape boom,” at fifty
dollars per acre. Perhaps it would be safe to average
good vineyard land at one hundred dollars per acre,
without improvements. Bearing vineyards, in the neigh-
borhood of St. Helena, have been sold as high as one
thousand dollars per acre, but this is, in my estimation,
a fictitious value, based on the high prices for grapes now,
which may not continue. In fact, I believe there will
be a decline, and that very soon. But if choice wine
grapes come down eyen to twenty dollars per ton, they
would still bring a handsome profit to the grower, esti-’
mating the cost of cultivation at twenty dollars per acre,
and the product at four tons to the acre.
I have given these figures mostly for my Eastern
friends, who may, like myself, wish to make California
their home. That they admit of very wide variations I
freely acknowledge. They are based, however, upon a
liberal estimate of costs, in establishing a vineyard on
resistant roots, so as to be safe from phylloxera. If you
want to risk the cuttings of the varieties of Vinifera,
and save the expense of grafting, the whole estimate can
be cut down to at least seventy dollars. But this I would
consider poor policy, and I would not adopt it.
I speak with reference to but one part of the State.
There are new settlements opening out every month,
every year, wherever cheaper lands can be had, and where ~
AND WINE MAKING. 301
the beginner, with limited means and a few years of hard
labor, may find a home at much less cost. These, of
course, are districts at present not reached by railroads,
but which may be opened in a few years. If a man
seeks a home which will furnish all the facilities at once,
where all the industries are already established, and he
has a sure market for his products every day, he has to
pay for all these advantages. There are lands to be had,
however, on a still different plan, which many adopt.
Large landholders are parcelling out their lands in the
southern part of the State; they furnish the land, while
’ the cultivator furnishes the labor and the plants for the
vineyard, works it for three years, and at the end of that
time they divide, the owner taking one half of the vine-_
yards, the other half going to the planter. I have heard
of inany such arrangements in the neighborhood of Ana-
heim, Los Angeles Co., which worked to the mutual
satisfaction of both parties. It is comparatively easy
there to plant and cultivate a vineyard, as the soil is
sandy and very readily worked. But the land must be
irrigated at least once a year, and the irrigating privi-
leges, etc., may bring the cost to about the same as where
the land is purchased. Grapes are cheaper there also,
bringing only from eighteen to twency-five dollars per
ton. But the yield is also greater, being from seven to
eight tons per acre. ‘These vineyards produce at least
a year earlier than those do without irrigation. In the
neighborhood of Fresno, where I spent a day this fall, I
have seen vineyards, planted eighteen months ago, but
irrigated once a year, produce three to four tons to the
acre this fall; in the third year they will produce as much
as ours do here the fifth season. But still I would not
like to live there, as the climate is very hot in summer,
cold in winter, and is also considered unhealthy.
Grapes are generally sold to the wine makers at the
above prices, who manufacture them into wines, which
302 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
are sold tc the dealers in the city when they are from
three to six months old. The average price paid for
young wines from the cellar has been from twenty-two
to thirty cents the gallon for round lots, including all in
the cellar, varying somewhat with the quality and the
proportion of wines of the choicest varieties. Perhaps
twenty-five cents would be a fair average estimate for
cellars containing one half of Mission and Malvasia.
The dealers mature and blend the wines to suit their
trade, and sell them, when matured, to their customers
throughout the State and further East. The consump-
tion of our wines here, especially the better claret, among
those who formerly consumed imported wines altogether,
is increasing very fast, as they become aware that they
can obtain a better wine at less price at home than they
receive from abroad; and it would increase still faster if
the nefarious practice of selling honest and good Cali-
fornia wines under foreign labels was less general. But
the old saying, ‘‘far fetched and dear bought,” is as
true with many of our would-be aristocracy as it is any-
where ; they will readily pay treble the price for an article,
however inferior it may be, if it is only shipped thou-
sands of miles, and carries a foreign label. A great many
unscrupulous dealers take advantage of this tendency,
and use French or Rhenish labels for California wines,
thus obtaining higher prices than they would get for
them under their true character, and robbing our home
product of its proper appreciation. 7
THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY IN CALIFORNIA.
Although speculations on the future are generally idle
and premature, still the question, will ‘‘ grape-growing
pay in the future?” is ever-recurring, and I can
only give surmises. I have a deep and abiding faith in
the ultimate success of the industry, for the following
reasons : 7
4
>. Si’. 2 =
AND WINE MAKING. 303
1. We have the finest climate in the world, and can
always make a good product, even in the most unfavora-
ble seasons.
2. We have remunerative crops every year, 1f we avoid
frosty locations, though not always equally good or
abundant. Entire failures are unknown.
3. We can make good wines, and produce table grapes
and raisins every year. This has been fully demonstrated
by the crude beginnings of the past, which have already
produced wines superior to the average of European im-
portations, and inferior to but few.
4, We can raise grapes and make wine cheaper than
any other nation or climate, for reasons given above; and
if present prices drop down one-third, or even more, the
producer will still make a fair profit.
5. We have the world for a market. We can satisfy
every taste, as soon as our vineyards and wine-making
establishments are skilfully handled. We can produce
light, agreeable dry wines, red and white, as well as all
the heavy ports, sherries, and swees wines, and we can
produce them at less cost than any other country, be-
cause we have no failures. All we need is, to have our pro-
duct fully known and appreciated, to make it sell.
That we shall have many reverses yet, that there will
be thousands who have commenced grape-growing with
high hopes, and with over sanguine expectations, who will
drop out of the ranks in a few years, because they lack the
necessary intelligence and perseverance, I fully believe.
But this is as it should be, and will be, all the world over. ;
It is the old, old tale of the ‘survival of the fittest,””
which will repeat itself here, and in this calling, as in
every other country and business; and those who petse-
vere and are fit for the task, will reap the benefits. Poor
wines will be a drug in the markets in a very few years,
and none but really good wines will find a ready sale.
304 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING
Let it be so; we can spare the poor wines, and those who
make them; their loss will be our gain.
GENERAL REMARKS.
I have come to the end of my task. That it can, at the
best, be but imperfectly performed, treating of such an
industry in a necessarily condensed form, no one knows -
better than myself. We have an immense field before
us, Where there is yet room for millions of willing and
intelligent heads and hands. With the high price of
labor now paid (one dollar per day and board is about the
average), thousands of intelligent, industrious laborers
can find lucrative employment, and no one who is sober
and industrious need fear but he can make a living here.
The many vineyards planted by capitalists as a good
investment of their money, when they come into bearing,
will need the supervision of skilful men, and there will
be in a few years a great field for intelligent men, more
so even than there is now, and all such should be wel-
comed as desirable acquisitions. We have a State Board
of Viticulture, created by act of Legislature, with an
appropriation of ten thousand dollars, annually, who have
already collected and distributed much valuable informa-
tion, held two annual conventions of grape growers, and
exhibitions of viticultural products, and who could accom-
plish still more good, did its presiding officers. freely
tolerate different views from their own and encourage the
full and free expression of the opinions and experience of
all practical men.
The Agricultural Department of our State University,
under the able management of Prof. Hilgard, has already
rendered efficient aid, by analyses of soil, experiments in
fermentation, researches in regard to Phylloxera, and
resistant stocks, lectures and reports, etc., and could do
still more, were its means sufficient to do all the faculty
would like to accomplish.
AND WINE MAKING. 305
In conclusion, I wish to tender acknowledgments for
the information gained from the reports of our State Viti-
cultural Commission, the pamphlets issued by the State
- University, and to the press throughout the State. Also
I would return my grateful thanks for the kindness and
courtesy shown me by my brother grape growers through-
out the State, who have welcomed the stranger in their
midst, and freely imparted the knowledge and experience
gathered through long years of arduous labors; especially
the Messrs. Crabb, Groezinger, Krug, Weinberger, and
others in Napa Valley; to Messrs. Dresel, Gundlach,
Winkel, Hill, and others of Sonoma; to Messrs. West, of
Stockton ; Mr. Blowers, of Woodland; Mr. Lefranc, of
San Jose; Messrs. Kohler, Bundscheu, Lachman, Schil-
ling, and others, of San Francisco, for much of the infor-
mation contained in these pages. My effort is somewhat
desultory, and must needs be, with so vast a task be-
fore me. If it serves but to give a little more insight,
and impart some useful knowledge to new beginners, I
shall have accomplished my object.
= el
—
*
»
iN DOE X.
- Acidimeter, Twitchell’s.. .....201-217
PRIMEY ATS: OLAS cero stewie o'. ciesic see 00 Od
ATDOTS, VINES! UpPON:s, otis ccecssieis 93
Barney, Hon. Hiram. ......-. Meigs 185
Baskets tor Packing... oo .ce0 i= 122
Bateham, M. B., Grapes and Wine
EV OPEL OR oe uoe ce veins eee aak 135
Birds in the Vineyard............. 114
ES OCR Ole VALNCS re slervic nrc ie cis. Marais 109
MAME GET OVW IN GS corset cg Mero chs Sere ates 211
Burr’s, John, Seedlings............ 191
California, Grape Culture in Fres-
HOLCORS ss cs eee 162
Be Grape Culture in Napa
CO tes se- ak cs 166
“ye Grape Culture in Sono-
MIM COMEN, Pies as 169
ss Phylloxera Problem in..186
Cambre, Eugene, on Grafting. .... 25
Campbell, Geo. W., Grape Culture
ir Southern OWiO.. 2 ios Sees. 1
Carrying Vaty ...22 3. arolsisa Ne he ialel otetais 203
Cashin, T. D., Grape Culture in
MGT YANG se sisk% fsa deats oc eke 8s 174
Wushin sebrellis 5. cui we cencee z 176
ASG Nota cargirsalt ders! tae Se Pe F 159
Japhet! ig 35) S.1g bt): ee 2 ee ee ee 206
Catawba Must Gallized............ 227
Sellar -PurMiGune.2: iss os asec sce 198
Classes of Grapes, Aistivalis....... 54
ae Soa AC OLGLEOHA ttcc2 20 OD
sea, 8 fou) SG AOTUSCA rc. =... 5: 35
esa eiee Cee pariar: 2.2 oMks 2 65
C lonies for Grape Growing...... +239
@ordifolia: Glass) 2) ssacie 022 fol Sees 65
Cornelius, Mr., Method of Grafting. 25
Cost of apibishing a Vineyard...191
Crabb, H. W., Viticulture in Napa
Cole Calass 5285 cenc ee cere oboe 169
Crooked Lake, N. Y., Grapes .123-142
Cultivation of Vineyard............ 87
Cuthines. -Gratted 0-22.) 08s. ve bes 26
Discarded Labrusca Varieties...... 53
oe AMstivalis Varieties. ..... 65
Diseases of the Vine.............. 402
ae 66
** “Greeley Rot’’.140
‘© Mildew on Kel-
ley’s Island. .140
ss DIP NVOTS oa ot eis oie, sip ois ele wea 211
307
se te
Drainage on Kelley’s Island....... 138
Draining the Soil..... Mf taal stotacs aioe tee 31
Dresel, Julius, Viticulture in Sono-
mapValleys:Calis,az2ssemecee .166
Egg Harbor, N. J., Wines.......... 190
Eckel, Rudolph, Grape Growing in
Wet Memas nas ae Sere a he cae cco cies 159
Eisen, Gustaf, Culture of the Grape
INICATOLRNI ATs ee eee eee 162
Engelmann, Dr., on Native Grapes 13
HermentanlOne acacasontrs oe ee ee 206
ve Changes Caused by .222
eS the Second......... 210
Fermenting on the Husks... ...... 207
Frosts, Protection from............ 115
ri; VDbiMnIN 2 voc.cs comes sisi s 95-118
MUnneL fOr Wines.) eee ce). eset oes 200
Gall, Dr., On Wine Making.. .. 218
Galitzine ste ce tece ate ee nec sce 214
SE GeallOni Zon eae he accra ols cies 214
Gathering and Marketing Fruit....121
¥ Grapes for Wine....124-202
Girdling the "Vines sass oe cag ence
Golden Willow for Tying... ..... pes) |
Grafting, Advantages of........:... 22
es Methods sccet aoe oaet wes 23
a Upon Cuttings. 25... ows 26
Grape and Fruit Colonies.......... 235
Sey CHOIBTE Hs. oe oe aces bate 104
Grape Culture in California.162-166-163
oa and Wine Making on
Crooked Lake, N.Y.142
$c IncMaryland)..<... 4%. 174
ss In Missouri... 2.5 act: &; 189
a In Southern Ohio..... 127
s In Southern Texas .. .145
te In Tennessee.........182
of In Western Texas,...15)
a5 On Kelley’s Island, 0.138
Grapes, Classification of.. 11
ie HUTO PCAN Saar axe aie esis 12
‘¢ “Natives Species of...... 12-151
2 SGissors t7ah< Let seh econ 120
‘ Time to Gather for Wine. .202
Sr What tovPlante 2 tcc. seen 31
+ When Ripe: <.ccscsed.s cceloe
GYAPE=SUGAPi rise von vese oe sielee e sate eee
GrayRotaweshsiec eset. nee eee 104
Horizontal Arm Training....,.,90-101
308 INDEX.
House Cellar for Wine... ...195 , Ohio, Southern, Grape Culture in..127
Husks and Lees—Uses for..... .... 212 | Old Vines, Renewal of..........-.. 119
Hybrids of Labrusca.-.... ......-- 35 | Onderdonk, G., on Grape Growing
inarchina® the Vine. 2%. vs... bess. 24 in Southern Texas 145
Insects, Injurious to the Grape. ...105 x on The Grapes of
ee SANT S 2S Caos oe ana peas 112 Texas s.r 151
ee WPGC UIES cas ae he seceinees oes 111 s Memoranda on Grape.153
es 1B te in eater oR ime toric Sc boe 113 f on The Vineyard in
se Camel Cricket. .. 118 Texas: acer 154
es CUL- WORM oeipclenita eres ote 111 | Packages for Marketing.:.......... 122
cs Devils) Horse acess o-1et- 113 | Phylloxera Problem in California. ..186
ie Grape-Vine Fidia.......... 112° | Pimehine the Laterals. os... seeere 93
a Grape-Vine Root Louse....105 oo Youno Shoots) .5.-2-eeer 92
sf Grape-Vine Sphinx 4 Ne Brats 112 | Planchon, Prof., on Phylloxera..... 106
Grasshoppers..---ms-seee > 1127 >| Plantiic the Viner. aasceeceeeee 81
cu" Lady Bae eakeasc eee 113 | Pleasant Valley Wine Co... ....... 143 .
= Leaf-Folders...........-. 93-111 | Poeschel & Scherer, Success in
ss Mantisoeie ts oo cpeie sere 113 Graltine <2.) occ em sce sera eee 22
ef Phyo me nares icra et 105) Press forr Grapes: canteen eee 198
a SP lant WOUSe rma ieeecee + 112 | Propagation, by Cuttings. ....... 19
be Rear-Horse......... eee 113 rea by Grafting ee. reece 22
rs Rocky Mountain Locust.. .1'2 ze Dy dmarchiaesss-.. es 24
‘© — Root-Louse of the Grape. .105 se by Layers) sckeesees 21
te AMIN irmeaelasdacas 7: co sDor 112 es by ‘Seeds: .2.c gasses 16
re Seis pete neice se terlac 113.) Protection.in Winter... ..s.5eaeee 115
ee W ASDS teigacct cpr eteteers ates 118: | Praning and Training ...s222 sess 87
low Br tte Elk Vineyards....... 184; | Proning Saw: :..<:222..6" eee 120
Jaeger’s, Hermann, Seedlings...... 64) (Prunings Shears: 2.2 :.---eee eee 119
Riouiae GIApCerx outs famed. octane 123° | Rackine the Wine. 2. ..scseee-eeeee 208
Kelley’s Island,O.,Grape Culture on.138 | Raisins in California.......... ae 172
Keuka Lake, N. Y., Grapes at...... 142 | Riparia Class. 3 65
Babrusca (Clissesiy. squs stern aa 30 | Ripeness, How nae er 121
Langendoerfer’s, F., Seedlings .... 62 | Ripening, To Hasten............... al ie
Mmateralss/DreatmrertOlease sees eye .. 93 | Ricketts’. J. H., His Seedlings. .... 51
Layering to Fill Vacancies........ 97 | Riley, Prof. C.V., on Phylloxera.105-107
Weavies. svemOval Of se. eee. 118 | Rommell’s, Jacob, Seedlings ....65-%0
Location and Soil for Vineyard..... 28 | Rulander Wine, Experiments With .226
Madinger’s, Jacob, Secdlings...... 53 Saccharometer....... .. 200-216
Manurine- the: Wine. -4..... 3545 5.ees 9% >| Secdlinne Vines). <.. 1. see eemeees 17
Maryland, Grape Culture in.......- IWL S| Seeds; Sowino. jose. see 17
ENDULGC Wt ar meet aise eget sere este sree 103 | Soil and Location for Vineyara..... 28
Miller, Sam., on Early Wiinter::.2h. = 19t | Soil Preparation of 2 cee 30
~ Mill For BES Berks eattaianciele = ofreiai 199 | Spotted or Brown Rot..... 104
Missouri, Grape Culture in ........ 189 | Sugar Used in Wine Making ...... 233
Muench, Hon. F., on Grape Culture Tennessee, Grape Culture Near
TE WOO IM Ss6eidade lcosesob cand 18) Chabtanoooa |... ...ses se eee 183
Mast, Its Change Into Wine........ 219 | Texas, Brae Growing in Southern .145
coe WINONA! Gee ctaraienea erste teste es 215-223 . s in Western. .159
‘ of American Grapes......... 224 se Native Grapes'0f: <::e.cse- 151
NGUST-SCAlCS 2a x Ae eerste a aie ste 900-216: | Thinnine the Mrmite 22> secure 95-118
Occhsles’ Must Seale... . =». 200-216. |) Draining as Borden. J5..2..eecaeeee 106
Ohio, Grape Culture and Wine- * Horizontal Atm.........- 101
Mia lative in) 7/5 etc eee ce Beko eee se ss SpITalece eee 175
Training Horizontal Zig Zag.x.. 2.175
* TREO COOL MOTN. 42m. sess ok 99
ss PME VVCSUCENION. Nir soon aee 100
os on Arbors and Walls..... 9s
ve LOWS EUR CS May re sot a peas 99
BHrculites CASDIM Scat ek.l se. sce es 176
se He Opis tl terns Suetsies sos eer. 85
Tubs in-Wine Making... .....2 sc: 200
Morne Moatertl fo. yaks kek OL
maine WineiCOw... sscegc ac. 22 142
Wacanciess To Bille. 2.2 See
Vallet’s, Jno., Method of Grafting 24
Vat for Carrying Grapes........ . .202
Pe >
Vats for Fermenting......,.... .. 199
VARIETIES OF GRAPES—Synonyms in
Italics.
Alvey ..... MN aa ok isla ehe casters sine 63
PATI GEM E rarecncs etc. Stoney avs tea « ee 70
AMINIG, 2.205 ccs Sew oe 43
PALL TNG scene tetera weenie icte evarsiats Boe tO
ROME eons. os ate Sev Guars ak 74
Baldwin Benoir... 2.2... .2:.2:. 68
PRUNE yin Nevins cheat ae wet 43
LECCE Sa a eicte come ek Mian een a 44
Blick DeanGeee. ccc). ..oe es 44-133
Bek sMACIE. Jas.c8 oa acne 44-133
SMCS ULV sl pce eh oe ... 638-146
Black July (Berckmans’)....... 154
Black Spanésh........... 61-145-161
Black Spanish in Texas. ...... 159
POMSOUT US Doi. on wad ak lao Le od ie 77
WT ENUO DY ea nia Wiss cvalenkawa deol 46
BiiochtonimMEDhios =. san...) 130
TMC me et ee nd kaw oe ws AD
LES DE ee ney 165
ROOM eee coat aso. 58. Sh Sk 35
Catawissa Bloom... ......0. +250. 7
CHOI oe na Ani see 43
RONAUNGOLINE Coates parks oY rouge oe aks 16
Columbia County........ ES ores
COMGOLE moma ban tae ae ae 35
Concord im OMnio:. is 23 22 128
SOOM ACE OS oo Viern corer Oo e pastas 53
RUMEN S ariks oso. Sa etee = cere ale 77
CCF DUT) 1 0 ag 61
Cunningham (Berckmans’)..... 158
LORD C4 5s SOR a See . of
MclAWANEs Ace occur sees cass 7
Delawnre in -Ohioss) 7252.6. 4 131
MONEE UES. ds.0 = Canaries 61
UE eC I ar: eee 47
BOMW Nee ic 5 ag ao Netesions: 153
308
Early Champion........ Selec 4
Barty; Daw. seacoast os 46
Karly Victor......---. SCP ie 191
TEIN DEUS setothey haperate abe as, ee Re 66
Elvira in, OUI0s a vesa. ee oe
SSCS. forge Ge teat sae 36
LO pte ee Abi ay 45
Baur West: Short ieee on eer 64
RGB fy so coc cen SR te ne ate eee lee
German Grape v.-...50-- Seve OK
Goer ta Seach eee eee sera
Golden Delaware............. 15
LODE BS eo ee a eS koe por Og
Harwood, ... ca doe EOS
PLCQUIO = aR ner ei Seite. eke 106
Herbemonitioet..o: snc act oe eee 58
Herbemont in Texas.. ..... ..157
Herbemont’s Madeira. ......... 58
EVELINA: anc ne, See OP
RRM ES sey te ae 51
LRT OE Nie OL a a ae a aN
Wp A choc. 8: aac Bie Gee.
LT) PE OAS Ve rr os 61
PUCIICR cota ie pee = CRUE 2 61
QEHCESOM sf acc.5 5c 2% eee 51-133
AGUA Ve tasepeecataatatern oe ene e Une 45
Eady ti Ohioe 2. ete eee 129
Lady Washington........... 51-133
EL OUG BCvOR ya een See (its
WGCHOUE Meee otic eee 61-145
Lenoir (Berckmans’). ....5..... 154
AINCOlIE -aomk See es eS
Bandley soy os. a aR A Accom 39
DOUG co. Cote oY Saeed
MED el eee BASSO SOIO re Ssonicn ae
INT GlNehoeass Soak. cians see ee 39
MEISSASOlibe ecco coe ee A re 39
Missouri Riesling <. ... 2 .2ces. 74
Moore’s-Harly. 2... .¢225 sisielas 46
Moore’s Early in Ohio. .........12
IMUISCACI ING soe oe, goose nae eee 15
WE Sta Or Ss au: akin eles qatol
Naomi seaoee SUS Aare rE te 1 (2)
INGOSITO ES ree eee Sa ek . 63-65
INIACRTAEY, Or ec Se ede Soc helen
ON MeA ete. 2 8d, on koe 94
Northern Fox........ alee ne Gains 13
Norton's Seedling ...... ae ytd y
Norton's Virginia..... Sieriaoeins 57
POE he iat acaeve
Perkins: ..-2223% SECs oe sO
PIATO.s 5552 ooo eae seis Seer
Planewco.c2 eee ass dos th ase noe
310 INDEX.
Pockunoton.. “ener. Seah 47-132 Wilder... 0s. ges brseee an es |
Prentiss . ae 48-133 WGGDLS 5 ss. cssRvencrerela eleanor cr 134
Seedling No. ALS Aeron 51 WADGER i. bociaoc nears ooo eee 14
ef ‘ INOS 2th seen. 51 Worden’s Seedling. ......-..... 130
IPUNIGY sch eertes tee ee ee %8-130 | Varieties, Choice of................ 31
GRACING tele Se ak ieee one ceioeree 65 s Difficult to Classify .. Tee vid
WED RUVET Nass canine ae OR Bags Bre 54 te for Different Localities.79 80
Ricketts’ No, 1 ...0:.-...8 524] Vine, Disenses, of.cc ites se eee eee 102
eS INO: + AL. cet eee eis BP PW itukersha good SION by 4 a Se . &1
a INTO! BOR De aeipte teristic. 52 ‘* Treatment the First Gitnmeet 84
fe INGE OA ns code eee 52 6 e “Second. ‘eotan
ss INOodalte sheese cscs = 52 as re cop hind oe)
ee INO; Sloe eae gee "5 és ee *Rourth oS 296
bi No. 284.059.402 2 (5.M Minevard,' Cost, Of.0. 27.2 tse. oes 191
es INO 41855 <3 ce eee 75 ee CitivatiOn., 5>..9. specs 87
Riversidee2. 3 326 yk ed eae - 14 se Ti Mexas 3 Nhe. ete 154
ABs ees INO ipa ete 36 whe Location and Soil....... 28
NOs SG Ase lee AD ol} SVibisysestival ise... comtanwenle cease 13
ss = NOD shies sienien< 39 $o-" GANGIGANS. cis \cs, a eee ee 151
ie aS INOS8o ss e255 43 <SCOLCIObI ae teeter Seas teak 14
oe shy INOR4 1 eae .00 SLA DEBSCR Zpnu ence Ree ts aceon es
se a NO; 43... 63.0% 43 66 ATIPATN Gs avs oc bs - Stocate oeaiec eee eee
Mommell's(NOM4 sc ce.s ees 73 * PUPCSHCIS.~.. cider hentia seer 151-160
ef INOW 205 tie siciseeye oe 73 60 VINMERA 216k wee ean eee 12
d Rol POG Ce) ee aR Sere coo ee 62 poems YT Ovk Ne aye ae Porta soi ck 15-18
Salemi soe el hoe oe wale cee ss 40 >| White Bik Vineyards]. .2.0) see 184
SCappcenone +. 3c. C Eka ks 78 ii acre Atter: Mrestmentetcnaec se sser 210
Southern AMstivalis............. 152 Bottling. ......04.< eee 211
Southern HWOxX:) cece ccck, wees 15 se... Cellar. Se Rie eee 195
Senn RT Oo a ates Mies rae 53 “ “ . Substitute fors. ><. cieaaee
SWIMM EM res cabs steelers Eh hataes 13 % Diseases /Ofe.z s.6 cere eee 211
hd (0) a SSR nrc ann ode cords 76 Hlatand TLurbidis. scams 211
Melerrapm « «2. sais os Sees 43 60. Makan «as ta.nd8 sae oe ore 195
EPROIMANET store wntale cia ote ate ehs itt ss ee Gall’s and Petiol’s
Dransparemtecijs <5. aeiasessiaere 70 Methody.tnmaeeweee 213
Mrigm phe. ts FSi h en 45 ae es on Crooked Lake... .148
ON OHI Was ees cae oe 73 hy es Made Hasy.....-.... 236
Virginia Seedling.........+. +. 57 “ at Egg Harbor, N.d........ 190
VN CI St eetarap atone aiaie aoe iG 58 paws! Dyes Nn Sr Pera os ato cic ns: 222
Wrarreniin’ Mexas.: jc. me. tyse oe 157 66°. SWeet, oc2¥aa ae anee eee eee 222
OTARADIDY EOC BRO ot ec 58 o 4 Wiliite oruRedc—. see 205
White Norton, Balsiger’s...... 65 | Winter Protection: ..:s.nce- ocean 175:
White Norton, Langendoerfer’s 65 } Wires for Trellis.........--. adeeance es
CONTENTS OF THE ADDED CHAPTERS.
American Vines in France......... 270 , Training the Vines ..........-.- -- 264
Diseases and Insects............... 267 | Vineyard, The ....:.. \. vedneweacemes: 244
MOSTAR A Sh oso WR Caen n Pewemene ay : Cultivation of..... 258
Grafting the Vines:.....6.0:.. 00.103 262 He Preparation of Ground ..245
Extent of Grape Growing in Cal. ..296 <i Restoring an Infested. ..275
MarketineGrapessce.a. ss ceeoe 278 ae Selection of Varieties for 247
INInSeRy wher eee ek een ones 244 | Wine Making in California........ 284
Raisin Making. och oat. eves ben ce 279 . ‘«.. Apparatus for: 2.2m 293
Stocks, Species for; ../.2sk.22.- 240 | Wines, Liqueur... .:2<7.. 6. ese cers 293
‘*. Preparation OF co. <i. oes 242 S. “Sparling. ..0 <0 as ocean 295
Se ee ae
Gardening for Youngand Old.
THE
CULTIVATION OF GARDEN VEGETABLES IN THE
FARM GARDEN.
By JOSEPH HARRIS, M.S.,
pAuthor of “Walks and Talks on the Farm,” ‘Harrison the Pig,’ ‘Talks on
; Manures,” ete
CONTENTS.
Introduction.—An Old and a New Garden.— Gardening for Boys.—How te
Begin.—Preparing the Soil.—Kailling the Weeds.—About High Farming.—Com-
petition in Crops.—The Manure Question.—The Implements Needed.—Start-
ing Plants in the House or in the Hot-bed.—The Window-box.—Making the
Hot bed.— Cold Frames.—Insects.—The Use of Poisons.~ The Care of Poisons.
—The Cultivation of Vegetables in the Farm Garden.—The Cultivation of
Flowers.
ILLLUSTRATED.
12mo. Cloth. Price, post-paid, $1.25.
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
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The American Apriculturist
FOR THE
Farm, Garden, and Household.
Established in 1842,
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