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THE ARABIAN ART

TAMING AND TRAINING

WILD AND VICIOUS HORSES.

BY L. G MARSHALL.

PUBUrS eee BY Benny 4G. Ook;
NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.
1858.

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INTRODUCTION.

Tuer first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements of
man in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day, but like all other great
accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process of discoveries and
experiments. He first subdued the more subordinate animals, on account of
their being easily caught and tamed, and used for many years the mere drudges,
the ox, the ass and the camel, instead of the fleet and elegant horse. Thisnoble
animal was the last brought into subjection, owing, perhaps, to man’s limited
knowledge of his nature, and his consequent inability to controlhim. This fact
alone is sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals.

Man, in all his inventions and discoveries, has almost invariably commenced
with some simple principle, and gradually developed it from one degree of per-
fection to another. The first hint that we have of the use of electricity, was
_ Franklin’s drawing it from the clouds with his kite. Now it is the instrument
of conveying thought from mind to mind with a rapidity that surpasses time.
The great propelling power that drives the wheel of the engine over our land,
and ploughs the ocean with our steamers, was first discovered escaping from a
tea-kettle. And so the powers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam,
became known to man only as experiments and investigation revealed them.

The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been the con-
stant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding him with
his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill and manner of
using him; but being to those who govern him by brute force and know nothing
of the beauty and delight to be gained from the cultivation of his finer nature,
a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant; whilst to the Arab, whose horse
is the pride of his life, and who governs him by the law of kindness, we find
him to be quite a different animal. The manner in which he is treated from a
foal, gives him an affection and attachment for his master not known in any
other country. The Arab and his children, the mare and her foal, inhabit the
tent together; and although the colt and mare’s neck are often pillows for the
children to roll upon, no accident ever occurs, the mare being as careful of the
children as of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and
hig master, that he will leave his companions at his master’s call, ever glad to
obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse and is unable to rise
again, he will stand by him and neigh for assistance; and if he lays down to
sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst of the desert, his
faithful steed will watch over him, and neigh to arouse him if man or beast
approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horses secret signs or signals,
which they make use of on urgent occasions to call forth their utmost exertions.
These are more efficient than the barbarous mode of urging them on with spur
and whip, a forcible illustration of which will be found in the following anec-
dote :—

A Bedouin, named Jabal, possessed « mare of great celebrity. Hassad
Pacha, then Governor of Damascus, wished to buy the animal, and repeatedly

" Ill

made the owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused. The
Pacha then had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, one
Gafar, a Bedouin of another tribe, presented himself to the Pacha, and asked
what he would give the man who would make him master of Jabal’s mare. “I
will fill his horse’s nose-bag with gold,’’ replied Hassad. The result of this in-
terview having gone abroad, Jabal became more watchful than ever, and always
secured his mare at night with an iron chain, one end of which was fastened to
her hind fetlock, whilst the other, after passing through the tent cloth, was at-
tached to a picket driven in the ground, under the felt that served himself and
wife for a bed. But one midnight Gafar crept silently into the tent and suc-
ceeded in loosening the chain. Just before starting off with his prize, he caught
up Jabal’s lance, and poking him with the butt end, cried out, ‘I am Gafar! I
have stolen your noble mare, and will give you notice in time.” This warning
was in accordance with the customs of the Desert; for to rob a hostile tribe is
considered an honorable exploit, and the man who accomplishes it is desirous of
all the glory that may flow from the deed. Poor Jabal, when he heard the
words, rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm, then mounting his brother’s
mare, accompanied by some of the tribe, he pursued the robber for four hours.
The brother’s mare was of the same stock as Jabal’s, but not equal to her; nev-
ertheless, he outstripped those of all the other pursuers, and was even on the
point of overtaking the robber, when Jabal shouted to him, ‘‘ Pinch her right
ear, and give her a touch of the heel.’’ Gafar did so, and away went the mare
like lightning, speedily rendering further pursuit hopeless. The pinch in the ear
and the touch of the heel were the secret signs by which Jabal had been used to
urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal’s companions were amazed and in-
dignant at his strange conduct. ‘‘O, thou father of a jackass !”’ they cried, ‘‘ thou
hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel.”? But he silenced their upbraid-
ings by saying, ‘‘I would rather lose her than sully her reputation. Would
you have me suffer it to be said among the tribes that another mare had proved
fleeter than mine ? I have at least this comfort left me, that I can say she never
met with her match.”

Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, but amongst
all of them its first practice was carried on in but a rude and indifferent way,
being hardly a stepping-stone to the comfort and delight gained from the use of
the horse at the present day. The polished Greeks, as well as the ruder nations
of Northern Africa, for a long while rode without either saddle or bridle, guiding
their horses with the voice or the hand, or with a light switch with which
they touched the animal on the side of the face to make him turn in the opposite
direction. They urged him forward by a touch of the heel, and stopped him by
catching him by the muzzle. Bridles and bits were at length introduced, but
many centuries elapsed before anything that could be called a saddle, was used.
Instead of these, cloths, single or padded, and skins of wild beasts, often richly
adorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups; and it is
given as an extraordinary fact, that the Romans, even in the times when luxury
was carried to excess amongst them, never devised so simple an expedient for
assisting the horseman to mount, to lessen his fatigue and aid him in sitting
more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptors prove that the horsemen of almost
every country were accustomed to mount their horses from the right side of the
animal, that they might the better grasp the mane, which hangs on that side, a
practice universally changed in moder times. The ancients generally leaped
on their horses’ backs, though they sometimes carried a spear with a loop or
projection about two feet from the bottom, which served them asa step. In
Greece and Rome the local magistracy were bound to see that blocks for mount-
ing, (what the Scotch call /owpin-on stones,) were placed along the road at con-
venient distances. The great, however, thought it more dignified to mount their
horses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves ; and many who
could not command such costly. help, used to carry a light ladder about with
them. ~The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddle, occurs in
the edict of the Emperor Theodosius, (A. D. 385,) from which we also learn that
it was usual for those who hired post-horses to provide their own saddles, and
that the saddle should not weigh more than sixty pounds, a cumbyrous contri-
vance, more like the howdahs placed on the backs of elephants, than the light and

elegant saddle of modern times. Side-saddles for ladies are an invention of
comparatively recent date. The first seen in England, was made for Anne, of
Bohemia, wife of Richard the IJ., and was probably more like a pillion than the
side-saddle of the present day. A pillion is a sort of a very low backed arm
chair, and was fastened on the horse’s croup, behind the saddle, on which a man
rode who had all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease,
supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore, or passing her arm around
his body, ifthe gentleman was not too ticklish. But the Mexicans manage these
things more gallantly than the ancients did. The “ pisanna,” or country lady,
we are told, is often seen mounted before her ‘ cavalera,’’? who takes the more
natural position of being seated behind his fair one, supporting her by throwing
his arm around her waist, (a very appropriate support if the bent position of
the arm does not cause an occasional contraction of the muscles.) These two
positions may justly be considered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards
their improved and elegant mode of riding at the present day.

At an early period, when the diversion of hawking was prevalent, they
dressed themselves in the costume of the knight, and rode astride. Horses were
in general use for many centuries before anything like a protection for the hoof
was thought of, and it was introduced, at first, as a matter of course, on a very
simple scale. The first foot defense, it is said, which was given to the horse,
was on the same principle as that worn by man, which was a sort of a sandal,
made of leather, and tied to the horse’s foot by means of straps or strings. And
finally plates of metal were fastened to the horse’s feet by the same simple
means.

Here again, as in the case of the stirrupless saddle, when we reflect that
men should, for nearly a thousand years, have gone on fastening plates cf metal
under horses’ hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings, without its ever
occurring to them to try so simple an improvement as nails, we have another
remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by which horsemanship has reached
its present state.

In the foregoing remarks, I have taken the liberty of extracting several
facts from a valuable little work by Rolla Springfield. With this short comment
- on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement up to the
present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a new theory of taming
wild horses, which is the result of many experiments and a thorough investiga-
tion and trial of the different methods of horsemanship now in use.

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE THAT PULLS ON THE HALTER.

Put the halter strap over a strong pole and bring it between his fore legs,
and fasten the end of it to the paster joint of the hind foot and let him pull till
he is willing to stand,

THEE CEtRES

FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF MY THEORY,

FOUNDED

ON THE LEADING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE HORSE.

First.—That he is so constituted by nature that he will not
offer resistance to any demand made of him which he fully com-
prehends, if made in a way consistent with the laws of his nature.

Seconp.—That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond
his experience, and can be handled according to our will, without
force.

Tuirp.—That we can, in compliance with the laws of his na-
ture by which he examines all things new to hin, take any object,
however frightful, around, over or on him, that does not inflict
pain, without causing him to fear.

To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of
the reasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offer
resistance to any thing fully comprehended. The horse, though
possessed of some faculties superior to man’s, being deficient of
reasoning powers, has no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will
and independent government, and knows not of any imposition
practiced upon him, however unreasonable these impositions may
be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision what he should
or should not do, because he has not the reasoning faculties of
man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he had,
taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless
to man asaservant. Give him md in proportion to his strength,
and he will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where
he will roam at leisure, denying the right of servitude at all. God
has wisely formed his nature so that it can, be operated upon by
the knowledge of man, according to the dictates of his will. And
he might well be termed an unconscious, submissive servant. This
truth we can see verified in every day’s experience by the abuses
practised upon him. Any one who chooses to be so cruel, can
mount the noble steed and run him till he drops with fatigue, or,
as is often the case with the more spirited, falls dead with the rider.
If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch his
_ rider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he
condescend to carry at all the vain imposter, who, with but equal
intellect, was trying to impose on his equal rights and his equally
independent spirit? But happily for us, he has no consciousness

of imposition, no thought of disobedience, except by impulse,
caused by the violation of the law of his nature; consequently,
when disobedient it is the fault of man.

Then, we can but come to the conclusion that if a horse is not
taken in a way at variance with the laws of his nature, he will do
anything that he fully comprehends, without making any offer of
resistance.

Second.—The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount
of his strength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one. For
instance, such remarks as these are common, and perhaps familiar
to your recollection. One person says to another, “If that wild
horse there was conscious of the amount of his strength, his owner
would have no business with him in that vehicle; such light reins
and harness, too; if he knew he could snap them asunder in a
minute ahd be as free as the air we breathe ;” and “that horse
yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that is
fast leaving him, if he knew his strength he would not remain long
fastened to that hitching post so much against his will, by a strap
that would no more resist his powerful weight and strength, than
a cotton thread would bind astrong man.’ Yet these facts, made
common by every day occurrence, are not thought of as anything
wonderful. Like the ignorant man who looks at the different
phases of the moon, you look at these things as he looks at her
different changes, without troubling your mind with the question,
«Why are these things so?’’ What would be the condition of

_the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think,
reason and act, our undisturbed, slumbering intellects would not
excel the imbecility of the brute ; we would live in chaos, hardly
aware of our existence. And yet, with all our activity of mind,
we daily pass by unobserved that which would be wonderful if
philosophized and reasoned upon, and with the same inconsistency
wonder at that which a little consideration, reason and philosophy
would make but a simple affair.

Third.—He would allow any object, however frightful in appear-
ance, to come around, over, or on him, that does not inflict pain.
We know from a natural course of reasoning, that there has never
been an effect without a cause, and we infer from this there can be
no action, either in animate or inanimate matter, without there
first being some cause to produce it. And from this self-evident
fact we know that there is some cause for every impulse or move-
ment of either mind or matter, and that this law governs every
action or movement of the animal kingdom. Then, according to
this theory, there must be some cause before fear can exist ; and,
if fear exists from the effect of imagination, and not from the
infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying with those
laws of nature by which the horse examines an object, and deter-
mines upon its innocence or harm.

A log or stump by the road-side may be, in the imagination of
the horse, some great beast about to pounce upon him; but after
you take him up to it and let him stand by it a little while, and
touch it with his nose, and go through his process of examination,

he will not care anything about it. And the same principle and
process will have the same effect with any other object, however
frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm. Take a boy
that has been frightened by a false face, or any other object, that he
could not comprehend at once ; but let him take the face or object
in his hands and examine it, and he will care nothing more about
it. This is a demonstration of the same principle.

With this introduction to the principles of my theory, I shall next
attempt to teach you how to put it into practice, and whatever
instructions may follow, you may rely on as haying been proven
practically by my own experiments. And knowing from experi-
ence just what obstacles I have met with in handling bad horses,
shall try to anticipate them for you, and assist you in surmounting
them, by commencing with the first steps taken with the colt, and
accompanying you through the whole task of breaking. *

HOW TO SUCCEED IN GETTING COLTS FROM PASTURE.

Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and
at such a distance as not to cause them to scare and run. Then ap-
proach them very slowly, and if they stick up their heads and seem
to be frightened hold on until they become quiet, so as not to make
them run before you are close enough to drive them in the direc-
tion you want to go. And when you begin to drive do not flourish
your arms or halloo, but gently follow them off, leaving the direc-
tion free for them that you wish them totake. Thus taking advan-
tage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them in the pound
as easily as the hunter drives the quail into his net. For, if they
have always run into the pasture uncared for, (as many horses do
in prairie countries and on large plantations,) there is no reason
why they should not be as wild as the sportsman’s birds, and require
the same gentle treatment, if you want to get them without trouble ;
for the horse in his natural state is as wild as any of the undo-
mestic animals, though more easily tamed than most of them.

HOW TO STABLE A COLT WITHOUT TROUBLE.

The next step will be to get the horse into a stable or shed. This
should be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any sus-
picion in the horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to
do this, is to lead a gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him,
then quietly walk around the colt and let him go in of his own
accord. It is almost impossible to get men who have never prac-
ticed on this principle, to go slow and considerate enough about it.
They do not know that in handling a wild horse, above all other
things, is that good old adage true, that ‘haste makes waste ;”’
that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble and perplexity.

One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think
it necessary to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and
thus make two hours’ work of a ten minutes’ job; and this would

be all your own fault, and entirely unnecessary ; for he will not
run unless you run after him, and that would not be good policy,
unless you knew that you could outrun him; or you will have to
let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will not try to
break away, unless you attempt to force him intomeasures. If he
does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in,
do not undertake to drive him, but give a little less room outside,
by gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let
them hang at your side; for you might as well raise a club. The
horse has never studied anatomy, and does not know but they will
unhinge themselves and fly at him. If he attempts to turn back,
walk before him, but do not run; and if he gets past you, encircle
him again in the same quiet manner, and he will soon find that you
are not going to hurt him; and youcan soon walk so close around
him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get far-
ther from you. As soon as he is in remove the quiet horse and
shut the door. This will be his first notion of confinement—not
knowing how to get in such a place, nor how to get out of it. That.
he may take it as quietly as possible, see that the shed is entirely
free from dogs, chickens, or anything that would annoy him; then
give him a few ears of corn; and let him remain alone fifteen or
twenty minutes, until he has examined his apartment, and has
become reconciled to his confinement.

TIME TO REFLECT.

And now while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is
. the proper time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and
to reflect on the best mode of operations; for in horse-breaking,
it is highly important that you should be governed by some system.
And you should know before you attempt to do anything, just
what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it. And,
if you are experienced in the art of taming wild horses, you
ought to be able to tell in a few minutes the length of time it
would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead.

THE KIND OF HALTER.

Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that
it will not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should
be of the right size to fit his head easily and nicely ; so that the
nooseband will not be too tight or too low. Never put a rope hal-
ter on an unbroken colt under any circumstances whatever. They
have caused more horses to hurt or kill themselves, than would
pay for twice the cost of all the leather halters that have ever been
needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It is almost impossible
to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter, without having
him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger his life ; and
I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try to get
his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant as it

would be for you to try to get your hand out of afire. The cords
of the rope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head
and draw on it, and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way
rope halters are always made) tightens and pinches his nose, and
then he will struggle for life, until perchance he throws himself;
and who would have his horse throw himself, and run the risk of
breaking his neck, rather than pay the price of a leather halter.
But this is not the worst. A horse that has once pulled on his halter
can never be as well broke as one that has never pulled at all.

REMARKS ON THE HORSE.

But before we attempt to do anything more with the colt, I will
give you some of the characteristics of his nature, that you may
better understand his emotions. Every one that has ever paid
any attention to the horse, has noticed his natural inclination to
smell everything which to him looks new and frightful. This is
their strange mode of examining everything. And, when they
are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply, they
seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, but
must touch it with the nose before they are entirely satisfied ; and,
as soon as this is done, all is right.

EXPERIMENTS WITH THE ROBE.

If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse
and learn something of the importance concerning the peculiarities
of his nature, turn him into the barn-yard, or a large stable will
do, and then gather up something that you know will frighten him ;
a red blanket, buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up
so that he can see it; he will stick up his head and snort. Then
throw it down somewhere in the center of the lot or barn, and
walk off to one side. Watch his motions, and study his nature.
If he is frightened at the object, he will not rest until he has
touched it with his nose. You will see him soon begin to walk
around the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer, as if
drawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within the
reach of it. He will then very cautiously stretch out his neck as
far as he can reach, merely touching it with his nose, as though he
thought it was ready to fly at him. But after he has repeated
these touches a few times, for the first (though he has been looking
at it all the time) he seems to have an idea what it is. But now
he has found, by the sense of feeling, that it is nothing that will
do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it with his teeth,
aud raise it up, and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see
that he has not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like
a horse biting at some familiar stump.

Yet the horse is never so well satisfied when about anything
that has frightened him as when he is standing with his nose to it.
And, in nine cases out of ten, you will see some of that same wild

look about him again, as he turns to walk from it. And you will
probably see him look back very suspiciously as he walks away, as
though he thought it might come after him yet. And, in all pro-
bability, he will have to go back and make another examination,
before he is satisfied. But he will familiarize himself with it, and
if he should run in that lot a few days, the robe that frightened
him so much at first, will be no more than some familiar stump.

SUPPOSITION ON THE SENSE OF SMELLING.

We might very naturally suppose, from the fact of the horse’s
applying his nose to everything new to him, that he always does
so for the purpose of smelling these objects. But I believe that it is
as much or more for the purpose of feeling; and that he makes
use of his nose or muzzle (as it is sometimes called), as we would
of our hands; because it is the only organ by which he can touch
or feel anything with much susceptibility.

I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing,
hearing, smelling and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which
the sense of feeling is, perhaps, the most important. And I think
that in the experiment with the robe—his gradual approach and
final touch with the nose, was as much for the purpose of feeling
as anything else, his sense of smell being so keen, that it would not
be necessary for him to touch his nose against anything in order
to get the proper scent ; for it is said that a horse can smell a man
the distance of a mile. And, if the scent of the robe was all that
was necessary, he could get it several rods off. But we know
from experience, that if a horse sees and smells a robe a short dis-
tance from him, he is very much frightened (unless he is used to it,)
until he touches or feels it with his nose ; which is a positive proof
that feeling is the controlling sense in this case.

PREVAILING OPINION OF HORSEMEN.

It isa prevailing opinion among horsemen generally, that the sense
of smell is the governing sense of the horse. And Faucher, as well
as others, have with that view, got up receipts of strong smelling
oils, etc., to tame the horse, sometimes using the chestnut of his
leg, which they dry, grind into powder and blow into his nostrils.
Sometimes using the oil of rhodium, organum, etc., that are noted
for their strong smell. And sometimes they scent the hands with
the sweat from under their arms, and blow their breath into his
nostrils, ete., ete. All of which, as far as the scent goes, have no
effect whatever in gentling the horse, or conveying any idea to his
mind; though the works that accompany these efforts, handling
him, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as
they direct you should, after administering the articles, may have
a very great effect, which they mistake to be the effects of the in-
gredients used. And Faucher, in his work entitled, ‘“‘ The Arabian
art of taming Horses,” page 17, tells us how to accustom a horse

to a robe, by administering certain articles to his nose; and goes
on to say, that these articles must first be applied to the horse’s nose
before you attempt to break him, in order to operate successfully.

Now, reader, can you, or any one else give one single reason how
scent can convey any idea to the horse’s mind of what we want
him to do? If not, then, of course, strong scents of any kind are
of no account in taming the unbroken horse. For everything that
we get him to do of his own accord, without force, must be accom-
plished by some means of conveying our ideas to his mind. Isay
to my horse “ go ‘long!’ and he goes; “ho!” and he stops; be-
cause these two words, of which he has learned the meaning by
the tap of the whip and the pull of the rein that first accompanied
them convey the two ideas to his mind of go and stop.

Faucher, or no one else, can ever learn the horse a single thing
by the means of a scent alone.

How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell
of a bottle of oil, before he would learn to bend the knee, and make
a bow at your bidding, ‘go yonder and briug your hat,’ or,
“come here and lay down.”’ Thus yousee the absurdity of trying
to break or tame the horse by the means of receipts for articles to
smell of, or medicines to give him, of any kind whatever.

The only science that has ever existed in the world, relative to
the breaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true
method which takes them in their native state, and improves their
intelligence.

POWEL’S SYSTEM OF APPROACHING THE COLT.

But before we go further, I will give you Willis J. Powel’s system
of approaching a wild colt, as given by him ina work published in
Europe, about the year 1814, on the ‘Art of taming wild Horses.”
he says, “‘A horse is gentled by my secret, in from two to sixteen
hours. The time I have most commonly employed has been from
four to six hours.’ He goes on to say; ‘‘ Cause your horse to be
put ina small yard, stable, or room. If ina stable or room, it
ought to be large in order to give him some exercise with the halter
before you lead him out, Ifthe horse belongs to that class which
appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into
the stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally
run from you and frequently turn his head from you; but you
must walk about extremely slow and softly, so that he can see
you whenever he turns his head toward you, which he never fails
to do in a short time, say in a quarter or half an hour. I never
knew one to be much longer without turning toward me.

“At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand
toward him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the
horse, watching his motions if he makes any. If the horse does
not stir for ten or fifteen minutes, advance as slowly as possible,
and. without making the least noise, always holding out your left
hand, without any other ingredient in it than that which nature

put init-’’ He says: ‘I have made use of certain ingredients
before people, such as the sweat under my arms, etc., to disguise
the real secret, and many believed that the docility to which the
horse arrived in so short a time was owing to these ingredients ;
but you see from this explanation, that they were of no use what-
ever. ‘The implicit faith placed in these ingredients, though inno-
cent in themselves, become ‘faith without works.’ And thus men
remained always in doubt concerning this secret. If the horse
makes the least motion when you advance toward him, stop, and
remain perfectly still until he is quiet. Remain afew moments in
this condition, and then advance again in the same slow and im-
perceptible manner. Take notice; if the horse stirs, stop without
changing your position. It isvery uncommon for the horse to stir
more than once after you begin to advance, yet thereare exceptions.
He generally keeps his eyes steadfast on you until you get near
enough to touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near
him, raise slowly and by degrees your hand, and let it come in
contact with that part just above the nostrils as lightly as possible.
If the horse flinches (as many will) repeat with great rapidity these
light strokes upon the forehead, going a little farther up towards
his ears by degrees and descending with the same rapidity until
he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now let the strokes
be repeated with more force over all his forehead, descending by
lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can handle that
part with equal facility, then touch in the same light manner,

‘making your hands and fingers play round the lower part of the
horse’s ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which
may be looked upon as the helm that governs all the rest.

‘Having succeeded in handling his ears advance toward the
neck, with the same precautions and in the same manner; observing
always to augment the force of the strokes whenever the horse
will permit it. Perform the same on both sides of the neck, until
he lets you take it in your arms without flinching.

“‘ Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to
the back of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness
return immediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting
him with your hands, and from thence rapidly to where you had
already arrived, always gaining ground a considerable distance
further on every time this happens. The head, ears, neck and body
being thus gentled, proceed from the back to the root of the tail.

«This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be
depended on that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall
lightly and rapidly on that part next to the body a minute or two,
and then you will begin to give it a slight pull upward every quarter
of a minute. At the same time you continue this handling of him
augment the force of the strokes, as well as the raising of the tail,
until you can raise it and handle it with the greatest ease, which
commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most horses; in
others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now
remains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to
the head, handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc.,

speaking now and then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend
to the legs, always ascending and descending, gaining ground every
time you descend until you get to his feet.

“ Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English or Spanish,
or in any other language you please; but let him hear the sound
of your voice, which at the beginning of the operation is not quite
so necessary, but which I have always done in making him lift up
his feet. Hold up your feet— Live la pied’—‘Alza el pie’-—‘Aron
_ton poda,’ etc., at the same time lift his foot with your hand. He
soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will hold up his foot
at command. ‘Then proceed with the feet in the same manner,
and in a short time the horse will let you lift them and even take
them in your arms.

“All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism ; it is merely
taking away the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiar-
izing the animal with his master; as the horse doubtless experi-
ences a certain pleasure from this handling, he will soon become
gentle under it, and show a very marked attachment to his keeper.”

REMARKS ON POWEL’S TREATMENT HOW TO
GOVERN HORSES OF ANY KIND.

These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for
horses of all kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt, but I
have inserted it here, because it gives some of the true philosophy of
approaching the horse, and of establishing confidence between man
and horse. He speaks of the kind that fear man.

To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these
are the easiest trained ; for when we have a horse that is wild and
lively, we can train him to our will in a very short time ; for they
are generally quick to learn, and always ready to obey. But there
is another kind, that are of a stubborn or vicious disposition, and,
although they are not wild, and do not require taming, in the sense
it is generally understood, they are just as ignorant as a wild horse,
if not more so, and need to be learned just as much, and in order
to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary that they should
be made to fear their masters; for in order to obtain perfect obedi-
ence from any horse, we must first have him fear us, for our motto
is fear, love and obey. And we must have the fulfilment of the
first two before we can expect the latter, and it is by our philoso-
phy of creating fear, love and confidence, that we govern to our
will every kind of a horse whatever.

Then, in order to take horses as we find them, or all kinds, and
to train them to our likings, we will always take with us, when
we go into a stable to train a colt, a long switch whip, (whalebone
buggy whips are best,) with a good silk cracker, so as to cut keen
and make a sharp report, which, if handled with dexterity, and
rightly applied, accompanied with a sharp fierce word, will be
sufficient to enliven the spirits of any horse. With this whip in
your right hand, with the lash pointing backwards, enter the stable

alone. It is a great disadvantage in training a horse, to have any
one in the stable with you; you should be entirely alone, so as
to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is
wild, you see him in the opposite side of the stable from you ; and
now is the time to use a little judgment. I would not want for
myself more than half or three quarters of an hour to handle any
kind of a colt, and have him running about the stable after me,
though I would advise a new beginner to take more time, and not
be intoo much of a hurry. If you have but one colt to gentle,
and are not particular about the length of time spent, and have
not had any experience in handling colts, I would advise you to
take Mr. Powel’s method at first, till you gentle him, which he
says takes from two to six hours. But, as I want to accomplish
the same, and, what is much more, learn the horse to lead, in less
than an hour, I shall give you a much quicker method of accom-
plishing the same end. Accordingly, when you have entered the
stable, stand still and let your horse look at you a’minute or two,
and as soon as he has settled in one place, approach him slowly,
with both arms stationary, your right hanging by your side, hold-
ing the whip as directed, and the left bent at the elbow, with your
hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too much towards
his head, or croop, so as not to make him move either forward or
backward, thus keeping your horse stationary; if he does move a
little forward or backward, step a little to the right or left, very
cautiously ; this will keep him in one place. As you get very
near him, draw a little to his shoulder and stop a few seconds. If
you are in his reach, he will turn his head and smell your hand,
not that he has any preference for your hand, but because it is
projecting and is the nearest portion of your body to the horse.
This all colts will do, and they will smell of your naked hand just
as quick as they will of anything you can put in it, and with just
as good an effect, however much some men have preached the
doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent of articles from
the hand. I have already proved that to be a mistake. As soon
as he touches his nose to your hand, caress him as before directed,
always using a very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse,
always rubbing the way the hair lays, so that your hand will pass
along as smoothly as possible. As you stand by his side, you may
find it more convenient to rub his neck, or the side of his head,
which will answer the same purpose as rubbing his forehead. Favor
every inclination of the horse to smell or touch you with his nose.
Always follow each touch or communication of this kind with most
tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with a kind look and
pleasant words of some sort, such as “ Ho! my little boy, ho! my
little boy,” ‘‘ pretty boy,” “ nice lady,” or something of that kind,
constantly repeating the same words, with the same kind, steady
tone of voice ; for the horse soon learns to read the expression of
the face and voice, and will know as well when fear, love or anger
prevails, as you know your own feelings; two of which, fear and
anger, a good horseman should never feel.

HOW TO PROCEED IF YOUR HORSE IS OF A
STUBBORN DISPOSITION.

If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn
or mulish disposition, if he lays back his ears as you approach him,
or turns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man
that he should have to enable you to handle him quickly and
easily, and it might be well to give him a few sharp cuts with the
whip, about the legs, pretty close to the body. It will crack keen
as it plies around his legs, and the crack of the whip will affect
him as much as the stroke ; besides, one sharp cut about the legs
will affect him more than two or three over the back, the skin on
the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner and more
tender than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough
to scare him; it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we
whip him, we only do it to scare the bad disposition out of him.
But ‘whatever you do, do quickly, sharply, and with a good deal
of fire, but always without anger. Ifyou are going to scare him
at all you must do it at once. Never go into a pitch battle with
your horse, and whip him until he is mad and will fight you. You
had better not touch him at all, for you will establish, instead of

‘fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred and ill-will. It will
do him no good, but an injury, to strike a blow unless you can
scare him; but if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip him
without making him mad, for fear and anger never exist together
in a horse, and as soon as one is visible you will find that the
other has disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so
that he will stand up straight and pay some attention to you,
approach him again, and caress him a good deal more than you
have whipped him, then you will excite two controlling passions
of his nature, love and fear, and then he will fear and love you
too, and, as soon as he learns what to do, will quickly obey.

HOW TO HALTER AND LEAD THE COLT.

As soon as you have gentled the colt a little, take the halter in
your left hand and approach him as before, and on the same side
that you have gentled him. If he is very timid about your ap-
proaching closely to him, you can get up to him quicker by making
the whip a part of your arm, and reaching out very gently with
the butt end of it, rubbing him lightly on the neck, all the time
getting a little closer, shortening the whip by taking it up in your
hand, until you finally get close enough to put your hands on him.
If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end of the
halter strap around his neck, drop your whip and draw very gently ;
he will let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then
take hold of that part of the halter which buckles over the top of
his head, and pass the long side, or that part which goes into the
buckle, under his neck, grasping it on the opposite side with your
right hand, letting the first strap loose—the latter will be sufficient
to hold his head to you. Lower the halter a little, just enough to

get his nose into that part which goes around it, then raise it some-
what and fasten the top buckle, and you will have it all right.
The first time you halter a colt you should stand on the left side,
pretty well back to his shoulder, only taking hold of that part of
the halter that goes around his neck, then with your hands about
his neck, you can hold his head to you and raise the halter on it
without making him dodge by putting your hands about his nose.
You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you
have the halter on attach this to it, so that you can let him walk
the length of the stable without letting go of the strap, or without
making him pull on the halter, for if you only let him feel the
weight of your hand on the halter, and give him rope when he
runs from you, he will never rear, pull, or throw himself, yet you
will be holding him all the time, and doing more towards gentling
him than if you had the power to snub him right up and hold him
to one spot; because he does not know any thing about his
strength, and if you do not do anything to make him pull he will
never know that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to con-
trol him with the halter, then shorten the distance between your-
self and the horse, by taking up the strap in your hand.

As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short
strap and step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give
him some idea about leading. But to do this, do not go before and
attempt to pull him after you, but commence by pulling him very
quickly to one side. He has nothing to brace either side of his
neck, and will soon yield to a steady, gradual pull of the halter ;
and as soon as you have pulled him a step or two to one side, step
up to him and caress him, and then pull him again, repeating this
operation until you can pull him around in every direction, and
walk about the stable with him, which you can do ina few minutes,
for he will soon think, when you have made him step to the right or
left a few times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the hal-
ter, not knowing that he has the power to resist your pulling ; be-
sides, you have handled him so gently that he is not afraid of you,
and you always caress him when he comes up to you, and he likes
that, and would just as leave follow youas not. And after he has
had a few lessons of that kind, if you turn him out in a lot he will
come up to you every opportunity he gets. You should lead him
about in the stable some time before you take him out, leading him
up to it and back again, and past it. See that there is nothing on
the outside to make him jump when you take him out, and as you
go out with him, try to make him go very slowly, catching hold of
the halter close to the jaw with your left hand, while the right is
resting on the top of his neck, holding to his mane. After you are
out with him a little while, you can lead him about as you please.
Don’t let any second person come up to you when you first take
him out ; a stranger taking hold of the halter would frighten him
and make him run. There should not even be any one standing
near him to attract his attention or scare him. If you are alone
and manage him right, it will not require any more force to lead
or hold him than it would to manage a broke horse.

HOW TO LEAD A COLT BY THE SIDE OF A
BROKEN HORSE.

if you should want to lead your colt by the side of another
horse, as is often the case, I would advise you to take your horse
into the stable, attach a second strap to the colt’s halter, and lead
your horse up along side of him. Then get on the broke horse
and take one strap around his breast, under his martingale, (if he
has any on,) holding it in your left hand. ‘This will prevent the
colt from getting back too far; besides, you will have more power
to hold him, with the strap pulling against the horse’s breast. The
other strap take up in your right hand, to prevent him from run-
ning ahead, then turn him about a few times in the stable, and if
the door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position ; if not,
take the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the
door, then lead the colt to the same spot, and take the straps as
before directed, one on each side of his neck, then let some one
start the colt out, and as he comes out turn your horse to the left,
and you will have them all right. This is the best way to lead a colt ;
you can manage any kind of a colt in this way without any trouble ;
for if he tries to run ahead or pull back, the two straps will bring
the horses facing each other, so that you can easily follow up his
movements without doing much holding, and as soon as he stops
running backward you are right with him, and all ready to go ahead.
And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove
all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus
compelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned
him about a few times, he will be willing to goalong. The next
thing after you are through leading him, will be to take him info the
stable, and hitch him in such a way as not to have him pull on the
halter. As they are often troublesome to get into a stable the first
few times, I will give you some instructions about getting him in.

HOW TO LEAD A COLT INTO THE STABLE AND HITCH
HIM WITHOUT HAVING HIM PULL ON THE HALTER.
You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the
colt, if you can, to follow in after him. Ifhe refuses to go, step up
to him, taking a little stick or switch in your right hand ; then take
hold of the halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same
time reaching over his back with your right arm, so that you can
tap him on the opposite side with your switch ; bring him up facing
the door, tap him lightly with your switch, reaching as far back
with it as youcan. This tapping, by being pretty well back, and
on the opposite side, will drive him ahead and keep him close to
you, then by giving him the right direction with your left hand, you
can walk into the stable with him: If have walked colts into the
stable in this way in less than a minute, after men had worked at
them half an hour, trying to pullthemin. If you cannot walk him
in at once this way, turn him about and walk him round in every
direction, until you can get him up to the door without pulling at

him. Then let him stand a few minutes, keeping his head in the
wight direction with the halter, and he will walk in in less than ten
minutes. Never attempt to pull the colt into the stable; that would
maké him think at once that it was a dangerous place, and if he
was not atratg of it before, he would be then. Besides, we don’t
want him to know anything about pulling on the halter. Colts
are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them into
the stable ; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into
an up-hill business, when a plain, smooth road is before them.

If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall,
which should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar, or
something of that kind, to the partition behind it ; so that, after the
colt is in, he cannot get far enough back to take a straight, back-
ward pull on the halter, then by hitching him into the center of the
stall would be impossible for him to pull on the halter, the parti-
tion behind preventing him from going back, and the halter in the
center checking him every time he turns to the left or right. In
a state of this kind you can break every horse to stand hitched by
a light strap, anywhere, without his ever knowing anything about
pulling. But if you have broke your horse to lead, and have
learned him the use of the halter (which you should always do
before you hitch him to anything,) you can hitch him in any kind
of a stall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his
place for a few minutes at first, and there is not one colt in fifty
that will pull on his halter.

THE KIND OF BIT, AND HOW TO ACCUSTOM A
HORSE TO IT.

You should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit, so as not to hurt his
mouth, with a bar to each side, to prevent the bit from pulling
through either way. ‘This you should attach to the head-stall of
your bridle, and put it on your colt without any reins to it, and let
him run loose ina large stable or shed, some time, until he becomes
a little used to the bit, and will bear it without trying to get it out
of his mouth. It would be well if convenient, to repeat this sev-
eral times before you do anything more with the colt ; as soon as
he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it without any mar-
tingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or a bridle
made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that you
can hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much. He
is now ready for the saddle.

HOW TO SADDLE A COLT.

Any one man, who has this theory, can put a saddle on the
wildest colt that ever grew, without any help, and without scaring
him. The first thing will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose
knot to make them short, and to prevent the stirrups from flying
about and hitting him. Then double up the skirts and take the

a AS

saddle under your right arm, so as not to frighten-him with it as
you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few times
with your hand, and then raise the saddle very slowly until ‘he
can see it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then lé the
skirts loose, and rub it very gently against his ie. oar way the
hair lays, letting him hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them
against him; each time getting a little further backward, and
finally slip it over his shoulders on his back. Shake it a little
with your hand, and in less than five minutes you can rattle it
about over his back as much as you please, and pull it off and
throw it on again, without his paying much attention to it.

As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the
girth. Be careful how you dothis. It often frightens a colt when
he feels the girth binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on
his back. You should bring up the girth very gently, and not
draw it too tight at first, just enough to hold the saddle on. Move
him a little, and then girt it up as tight as you choose, and he will
not mind it.

You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before
you put it on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or
feel unpleasant to his back. It should not have any loose straps
on the back part of it to flap about and scare him. After you
have saddled him in this way, take a switch in your right hand to
tap him up with, and walk about in the stable a few times, with
your right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reins on each
side of his neck, with your right and left hands. Thus marching
him about in the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle,
and can turn him about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle
pull of the rein. Always caress and loose the reins a little every
time you stop him.

You should always be alone, and have your colt in some tight
stable or shed, the first time you ride him ; the loft should be high,
so that you can sit on his back without endangering your head.
You can learn him more in two hours time in a stable of this kind,
than you could in two weeks in the common way of breaking
colts, out in an open place. Ifyou follow my course of treatment,
you need not run any risk, or have any trouble in riding the worst
kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time, until you get up
a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. First
learn him to lead and stand hitched, next acquaint him with the
saddle, and the use of the bit ; and then all that remains, is to get
= him without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any

orse.

HOW TO MOUNT THE COLT.

First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle, and all
over, until he will stand without holding, and is not afraid to see
you anywhere about him.

As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about
one foot or eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side

of him, about where you want to stand to mount him; step up on
this, raising yourself very gently ; horses notice every change of
position very closely, and if you were to step up suddenly on the
block, it would be very apt to scare him; but by raising yourself
gradually on it, he will see you, without being frightened, in a po-
sition very near the same as when you are on his back.

As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup
strap next to you, and put your left foot into the stirrup, and
stand square over it, holding your knee against the horse, and
your toe out, so as to touch him under the shoulder with the toe
of your boot. Place your right hand on the front of the saddle,
and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of a portion of the
mane and the reins as they hang loosely over his neck with your
left hand; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup, and on
your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the
saddle; repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a
little higher from the block, until he will allow you to raise your
leg over his croop, and place yourself in the saddle.

There are three great advantages in having a block to mount
from. First, a sudden change of position is very apt to frighten
a young horse, that has never been handled; he will allow you
to walk up to him, and stand by his side without scaring at you,
because you have gentled him to that position, but if you get
down on your hands and knees and crawl towards him, he will be
very much frightened, and upon the same principle he would
frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold your-

“self over his back without touching him. Then the first great ad-
vantage of the block is to gradually gentle him to that new po-
sition in which he will see you when you ride him.

Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups,
and on your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight,
80 as not to frighten him by having him to feel it all at once. And
in the third place the block elevates you so that you will not have
to make a spring in order to get on the horse’s back, but from it
you can gradually raise yourself into the saddle. When you take
these precautions, there is no horse so wild but what you can
mount him without making him jump. I have tried it on the
worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in any
ease. When mounting, your horse should always stand without
being held. A horse is never well broke when he has to be held
with a tight rein while mounting; and a colt is never so safe to
mount, as when you see that assurance of confidence, and absence
of fear, which causes him to stand without holding.

HOW TO RIDE THE COLT.

When you want him to start, do not touch him on the side with
your heel, or do anything to frighten him to make him jump.
But speak to him kindly, and if he does not start, pull him alittle
to the left until he starts, and then let him walk off slowly with

the reins loose. Walk him around in the stable a few times until -
he gets used to the bit, and you can turn him about in every
direction and stop him as you please. It would be well to get
on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it
before you take him out of the stable.

After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you
more than one or two hours, you can ride him anywhere you choose
without ever having him jump or make any effort to throw you.

When you first take him out of the stable be very gentle with
him, as he will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be
a little easier frightened than he was while in the stable. But after
handling him so much in the stable he will be pretty well broke,
and you will be able to manage him without trouble or danger. .

When you first mount him take a little the shortest hold on the
left rein, so that if anything frightens him you can prevent him
jumping by pulling his head around to you. This operation of
pulling a horse’s head around against his side will prevent any
horse from jumping ahead, rearing up, or running away. If he is
stubborn and will not go, you can make him move by pulling his
head around to one side, when whipping would have no effect.
And turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and
then by letting him have his head straight, giving him a little
touch with the whip he will go along without any trouble.

Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him ; every
movement of the hand should go right to the bit in the direction
in which it is applied to the reins, without a martingale to change
the direction of the force applied. You can guide the colt much
better without them, and learn him the use of the bit in much
less time. Besides, martingales would prevent you from pulling
his head around if he should try to jump.

After your colt has been rode until he is gentle and well accus-
tomed to the bit, you may find it an advantage, if he carries his
head too high, or his nose too far out, to put martingales on him.

You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to
heat, worry or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little
fatigued; gentle him and let him rest, this will make him kind to
you and prevent him from getting stubborn and mad.

THE PROPER WAY TO BIT A COLT.

Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they
do, buckling up the bitting as tight as they can draw it to make
him carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run a
half day atatime. This is one of the worst punishments that they
could inflict on the colt, and very injurious to a young horse that
has been used to running in pasture with his head down. I have
seen colts so injured in this way that they never got over it.

A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on
the bitting harness, and when you first bit. him you should only
rein his head up to that point where he naturally holds it, let that

be high or low; he will soon learn that he cannot lower his head,
and that raising it a little will loosen the bit in his mouth. This
will give him the idea of raising his head to loosen the bit, and
then you can draw the bitting a little tighter every time you put
it on, and he will still raise his head to loosen it ; by thismeans you
will gradually get his head and neck in the position you want him
to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful carriage without
hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to get sore.

If you put the bitting on very tight the first time, he cannot
raise his head enough to loosen it, but will bear on it all the time,
and paw, sweat, and throw himself. Many horses have been
killed by falling backward with the bitting on, their heads being
drawn up, strike the ground with the whole weight of the body.
Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly should not have
the bitting on more than fifteen or twenty minutes at a time.

HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT IS VERY WILD’
AND HAS ANY OTHER VICIOUS HABITS.

Take up one fore foot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom
upward, and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his
knee, and up until it comes above the pasture joint to keep it up,
being careful to draw the loop together between the hoof and
pasture joint with a second strap of some kind, to prevent the loop
from slipping down and coming off. This will leave the horse
standing on three legs; you can now handle him as you wish, for
it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position. There
is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers
a horse quicker and better than any thing else you can do to him.
There is no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking
horse, for several reasons. First, there is a principle of this kind
in the nature of the horse; that by conquering ene member, you
conquer, to a great extent, the whole horse.

You have perhaps seen men operate on this principle by sewing
a horse’s ears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw
a plan given in a newspaper to make a bad horse stand to be shod,
which was to fasten down one ear. There were no reasons given
why you should do so; but I tried it several times, and thought
it had a good effect—though I would not recommend its use,
especially stitching his ears together. The only benefit arising
from this process is, that by disarranging his ears we draw his
attention to them, and he is not so apt to resist the shoeing. By
tying up one foot we operate on the same principle to a much
better effect. When you first fasten up a horse’s foot he will some-
times get very mad, and strike with his knee, and try every possible
way to get it down but he cannot do that, and will give it up.

This will conquer him better than anything you could do, and
without any possible danger of hurting himself or you either, for
you can tie up his foot and sit down and look at him until he gives
up. When you find that he is conquered, go to him, let down his

foot, rub his leg with your hand, caress and let him rest a little,
then put it up again. Repeat this a few times, always putting up
the same foot, and he will soon learn to travel on three legs so that
you can drive him some distance. As soon as he gets a little used
to this way of traveling, put on your harness and hitch him to a
sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised a foot,
you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one
foot up, for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do
any harm. And if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness
on, and has run away every time he has been hitched, you can
now hitch him in a sulky and drive him as you please. And if he
wants to run you can let him have the lines, and the whip too,
with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gait on three legs,
and will soon be tired and willing to stop ; only hold him enough
to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired and
willing to stop at the word. Thus you will effectually cure him
at once of any further notion of running off. Kicking horses have
always been the dread of every body; you always hear men say,
when they speak about a bad horse, ‘I don’t care what he does,
so he don’t kick.’”” This new method is an effectual cure for this
worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways by which you can
hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though he kicks all the
time ; but this don’t have any good effect towards breaking him,
for we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is
behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them,
they will only kick the harder, and this will hurt them still more,
and make them remember the scrape much longer, and make it
still more difficult to persuade them to have any confidence in
anything dragging behind them ever after.

But by this new method you can hitch them to a rattling sulky,
plow, wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be
frightened at first, but cannot kick or do anything to hurt them-
selves, and will soon find that you do not intend to hurt them,
and then they will not care anything more about it. You can then
let down the leg and drive along gently without any further
trouble. By this new process a bad kicking horse can be learned
to go gentle in harness in a few hours’ time.

ON BALKING.

Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought
into it by improper management, and when a horse balks in har-
ness, it is generally from some mismanagement, excitement, con-
fusion, or from not knowing how to pull, but seldom from any un-
willingness to perform all that he understands. High-spirited,
free going horses are the most subject to balking, and only so be-
cause drivers do not properly understand how to manage this kind.
A free horse in a team may be so anxious to go, that when he
hears the word he will start with a jump, which will not move the
load, but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will

fly back and stop the other horse; the teamster will continue his
driving without any cessation, and by the time he has the slow
horse started again, he will find that the free horse has made
another jump, and again flew back, and now he has them both
badly balked, and so confused that neither of them knows what
is the matter, or how to start the load. Next will come the slash-
ing and cracking of the whip, and hallooing of the driver, till
something is broken, or he is through with his course of treatment.
But what a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for
this act. Reason and common sense should teach him that the
horse was willing and anxious to go, but did not know how to start
the load. And should he whip him for that? If so, he should
whip him again for not knowing how to talk. A man that wants
to act with any rationality or reason, should not fly into a passion,
but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steady
pressure against the collar to move a load, and you cannot expect
him to act with a steady determined purpose while you are whip-
ping him. There is hardly one balking horse in five hundred
that will pull true from whipping; it is only adding fuel to fire,
and will make them more liable to balk another time. You always
see horses that have been balked a few times, turn their heads
and look back, as soon as they are a little frustrated. This is
because they have been whipped and are afraid of what is behind
them. ‘This is an invariable rule with balked horses, just as much
as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have the
bots ; in either case they are deserving of the same sympathy and
the same kind, rational treatment.

When your horse balks, or is a little excited, if he wants to
start quickly, or looks around and don’t want to go, there is some-
thing wrong, and he needs kind treatment immediately. Caress
him kindly, and if he don’t understand at once what you want
him to do, he will not be so much excited as to jump and break
things, and do everything wrong through fear. As long as you
are calm, and can keep down the excitement of the horse, there
are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would
not be one under harsh treatment, and then the little flare up
would not carry with it any unfavorable recollections, and he
would soon forget all about it, and learn to pull true. Almost
every wrong act the horse commits is from mismanagement, fear
or excitement; one harsh word will so excite a nervous horse as
to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute.

When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes, and
reflect how difficult it must be for them to understand our motions,
signs and Janguage, we should never get out of patience with them
because they don’t understand us, or wonder at their doing things
wrong. With all our intellect, if we were placed in the horse’s
situation, it would be difficult for us to stand the driving of some
foreigner, or foreign ways and foreign language. We should
always recollect that our ways and language are just as foreign
and unknown to the horse, as any language in the world is to us,
and should try to practice what we could understand, were we the

horse, endeavoring by some means to work on his understanding
rather than on the different parts of his body. All balked horses
can be started true and steady in a few minutes’ time; they are
all willing to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet
found a balked horse that I could not teach him to start his load
in fifteen, and often less than three minutes’ time.

Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly, if you let
them stand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong,
and then speak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little
to the right or left, so as to get them both in motion before they
feel the pinch of the load. But if you want to start a team that
you are not driving yourself, that has been balked, fooled, and
whipped for some time, go to them and hang the lines on their
hames, or fasten them to the wagon, so that they will be perfectly
loose; make the driver and spectators (if there are any) stand
off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention of
the horses; unloose their checkreins, so that they can get their
heads down, if they choose ; let them stand a few minutes in this
condition, until you can see that they are a little composed.
While they are standing, you should be about their heads, gentling
them; it will make them a little more kind, and the spectators
will think that you are doing something that they do not under-
stand, and will not learn the secret. When you have them ready
to start, stand before them, and as you seldom have but one balky
horse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he
is too fast for the other horse, let his nose come against his breast ;
this will keep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on
you; turn them gently to the right, without letting them pull on
the traces, as far as the tongue will Jet them go; stop them with
a kind word, gentle them a little, and then turn them back to the
left, by the same process. You will have them under your con-
trol by this time, and as you turn them again to the right, steady
them in the collar, and you can take them where you please.

There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky
horse, but not sosure. Stand him alittle ahead, so that his shoul-
ders will be against the collar, and then take up one of his fore
feet in your hand, and let the driver start them, and when the
weight comes against his shoulders, he will try to step ; then let
him have his foot, and he willgoright along. Ifyou want to break
a horse from balking that has long been in that habit, you ought
to set apart a half day for that purpose. Put him by the side of
some steady horse ; have check lines on them ; tie up all the tra-
ces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them; do
not rein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk
them about together for some time as slowly and lazily as pos-
sible ; stop often, and go up to your balky horse and gentle him.
Do not take any whip about him, or do anything to excite him,
but keep him just as quiet as you can. He will soon learn to start
off at the word, and stop whenever you tell him.

As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon ;
have it stand in a favorable position for starting, It would be

well to shorten the stay chain behind the steady horse, so that if
it is necessary, he can take the weight of the wagon the first time
you start them. Donot drive but afew rods at first ; watch your
balky horse closely, and if you see that he is getting excited, stop
him before he stops of his own accord, caress him a little, and
start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a small
hill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a
little load. This process will make any horse true to pull.

TO BREAK A HORSE TO HARNESS.

Take him in a tight stable, as you did to ride him; take the
harness and go through the same process that you did with the
saddle, until you get him familiar with them, so that you can put
them on him and rattle them about without his caring for them.
As soon as he will bear this, put on the lines, caress him as you
draw them over him, and drive him about in the stable till he will
bear them over his hips. The dines are a great aggravation to
some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were to
raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the har-
ness and line, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle
horse, and go through the same process that you did with the
balking horse. Always use a bridle without blinds when you are
breaking a horse to harness.

HOW TO HITCH A HORSE IN A SULKY.

Lead him to and around it ; let him look at it, touch it with his
nose, and stand by it till he does not care for it; then pull the
shafts a little to the left, and stand by your horse in front of the
off wheel. Let some one stand on the right side of the horse and
hold him by the bit while you stand on the left side, facing the
sulky. ‘This will keep him straight. Run your left hand back
and let it rest on his hip, and lay hold of the shafts with your
right, bringing them up very gently to the left hand, which still
remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his
back, and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, let the
person on the opposite side take hold of one of them and lower
them very gently on the shaft bearers. Be very slow and delib-
erate about hitching; the longer time you take the better, as a
general thing. When you have the shafts placed, shake them
slightly, so that he will feel them against each side. As soon as
he will bear them without searing, fasten your braces, ete., and
start him along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep
him gentle, while the other gradually works back with the lines
till he can get behind and drive him. After you have driven him
in this way a short distance, you can get into the sulky, and all
will go right. It is very important to have your horse go gentle
when you first hitch him. After you have walked him awhile,
there is not half so much danger of his scaring. Men do very

wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they
have him hitched. There are too many things for him to compre-
hend all at once. The shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling
of the sulky, all tend to scare him, and he must be made familiar
with them by degrees. If your horse is very wild, I would advise
you to put up one foot the first time you drive him.

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN.

Everything that we want to learn the horse must be com-
menced in some way to give him an idea of what you want him to
do, and then be repeated until he learns it perfectly. To make a
horse lie down, bend his fore left leg, and slip a loop over it so that
he cannot get it down. Then put acircingle around his body, and
fasten one end of a long strap around the other fore leg, just above
the hoof. Place the other end under the circingle, so as to keep
the strap in the right hand ; stand on the left side of the horse,
grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the strap with
your right ; bear against his shoulder tili you cause him to move.
as soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise his other
foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap
tight in your hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he
raises up. Hold him in this position and turn his head toward
you; bear against his side with your shoulder, not hard, but with
a steady, equal pressure, and in about ten minutes he will lie down.
As soon as he lies down he will be completely conquered, and you
can handle him as you please. Take off the straps and straighten
out his legs; rub him lightly about the face and neck with your
hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs, and after he has
lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting
him a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the
operation three or four times, which will be sufficient for one
lesson. Give him two lessons a day, and when you have given
him four lessons he will lie down by taking hold of one foot. As
soon as he is well broken to lie down in this way, tap him on the
opposite leg with a stick when you have hold of his foot, andina
few days he will lie down from the mere motion of the stick.

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU.

Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance
to get out, with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him
a little, take hold of his halter and turn him toward you, at the
same time touching him lightly over the hips with a long whip.
Lead him the length of the stable, rubbing him on the neck,
saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him, Come along,
boy ! or use his name, instead of boy, if you choose. Every time
you turn touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up
close to you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon

learn to hurry up to escape the whip and be caressed, and you can
make him follow you around without taking hold of the halter.
If he should stop and turn from you, give him a few cuts about
the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head toward you, when
you must always caresshim. A few lessons of this kind will make
him run after you when he sees the motion of the whip—in twenty
or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After you
have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out
into a small lot and train him; and from thence you can take him
into the road and make him follow you anywhere and run after
you.

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE STAND WITHOUT HOLDING.

After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the
center of the stable—begin at his head to caress him, gradually
working backward. If he moves, give him a cut with the whip
and put him back in the same spot from which he started. If he
stands, caress him as before, and continue gentling him in this
way until you can get around him without making him move.
Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch
him occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around, and
if he then moves, give him another cut with the whip and put him
back to his place. If he stands, go to him frequently and caress
him, and then walk around him again. Do not keep in one posi-
tion too long at a time, but make him come to you occasionally
and follow you round in the stable. Then stand him in another
place and proceed as before. You should not train your horse
more than half an hour at a time.

THE HORSEMAN’S GUIDE AND FARRIER.

BY JOHN J. STUTZMAN, West Rushvillo, Fairfield Co., Ohio.

I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to which the
horse is subject. I have practiced them for many years with unparalleled suc-
cess. I have cured horses with the following remedies, which (in many cases)

have been given up in despair, and I never had a case in which I did not effect
a cure.

Cure for Colic—Take one gill of turpentine, one gill of opium dissolved in
whisky; one quart of water, milk warm. Drench the horse and move him
about slowly. If there is no relief in fifteen minutes, take a piece of chalk,
about the size of an egg, powder it, and put it intoa pint of cider vinegar, which
should be blood warm, give that and then move him as before.

AnotHrer.—Take one ounce landanum, one ounce of ether, one ounce of tinc-
ture of assafetida, two ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whisky ; put
it all in a quart bottle, shake it well and drench the horse.

Cure for the Botts —Take one and a half pints of fresh milk (just from the
cow) one pint of molasses. Drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth;
then give him one pint of linseed oil to remove them.

For Distemper—Take mustard seed ground fine, tar and rye chop, make
pills about the size of a hen’s egg. Give him six pills every six hours, until
they physic him; then give him one tablespoonful of the horse powder men-
tioned before, once a day until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours
after using the powder.

Lung Fever.—In the first place bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits
of nitre, in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him. Keep
him well covered with blankets, and rub his legs and body well; blister him
around the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water,
unless there is spirits of nitre in it.

Rheumatic Liniment.—Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, f. f. i; oil of cajuput,
oil of origanum, in equal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and
weak back.

Cuts and Wounds of all kinds.—One pint of alcohol, half ounce of gum. of
myrrh, half ounce aloes; wash once a day.

Sprains and Swellings.—Take one and a half ounces of hartshorn, one ounce
camphor, two ounces spirits of turpentine, four ounces sweet oil, eight ounces
alcohol. Anoint twice a day.

For Glanders.—Take of burnt buck’s horn a tablespoonful, every three days

for nine days. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until there
is relief.

Saddle or Collar Liniment.—One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce
of oil of spike, half ounce essence of wormwood, half ounce castile soap, half
ounce gum camphor, half ounce sulphuric ether, half pint alcohol, and wash
freely.

Liniment to set the Stijle Joint on a Horse.-—One ounce oil of spike, half
ounce origanum, half ounce oil amber. Shake it well and rub the joints twice
a day until cured, which will be in two or three days.

Eye Water.—I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. 1
have tried it on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna one ounce,
white vitriol one ounce, alum half ounce, with one pint clear rain water; shake
it well before using. If too strong, weaken it with rain water.

Liniment for Windgalls, Strains and Growth of Lumps on Man or Horse.—
One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce amber, aqua fortis and
sal ammoniac one drachm, spirits of salts one drachm, oil of sassafras half
ounce, hartshorn half ounce. Bathe once or twice a day.

Horse Powder.—This powder will cure more diseases than any other medi-
cine known; such as Distemper, Fersey, Hidebound, Colds, and all lingering
diseases which may arise from impurity of the blood or lungs. Take one pound
comfrey root, half pound antimony, half pound sulphur, three ounces of saltpe-
tre, half pound laurel berries, half pound juniper berries, half pound angetice
seed, half pound rosin, three ounces alum, half pound copperas, half pound
master wort, half pound gun powder. Mix all to a powder and give in the most
cases, one tablespoonful in mash feed once a day until cured. Keep the horse
dry, and keep him from cold water six hours after using it.

For Cuts or Wounds on Horse or Man.—Take fish-worms mashed up with
old bacon oil, and tie on the wound, which is the surest and safest cure.

Oil for Collars.—This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or
galls. Take fish-worms and put them in acrock or other vessel twenty-four
hours, till they become clean; then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of
salt upon them, place them near a stove and they will turn to oil; rub the parts
affected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently.

Sore and Scummed Eyes on Horses.—Take fresh butter, or rabbit's fat,
honey and the white of three eggs, well stirred up with salt and black peppér,
ground to a fine powder; mix it well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also
rub above the eye (in the hollow) with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring
water.

For a Bruised Eye——Take rabbit's fat, and use as above directed. Bathe
freely with fresh spring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this
simple remedy.

Poll-Evil or Fistula.—Take of Spanish flies one ounce, gum euphorbium
three drachms, tartar emetic one ounce, rosin three ounces; mix and pulverize,
and then mix them with a half pound of lard. Anoint every three days for
three weeks ; grease the parts affected with lard every four days. Wash with
soap and water before using the salve. In poll-evil, if open, pulverize black
bottle glass, put as much in each ear as will layonadime. The above is
recommended in outside callouses, such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, windgalls,
etc., etc.

For the Fersey—Take one quart of sassafras root bark, one quart burdock
root, spice wood broke fine, one pint rattle weed root. Boil in one and a half
gallons of water; scald bran; when cool give it to the horse once a day for
three or four days. Then bleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder
as directed. In extreme cases, I also rowel in the breast and hind legs, to
extract the corruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy
for blood diseases, etc., etc.

To make the Hair Grow on Man or Beast.—Take milk of sulphur half drachm,
sugar of lead half drachm, rose water half gill, mix and bathe well twice a day
for ten days.

Cholera or Diarrhea Tincture-—One ounce of laudanum, one ounce of spirits
of camphor, one ounce of spirits of nitre, half ounce essence of peppermint,
twenty drops of chloroform; put all ina bottle, shake well, and take half tea-
spoonful in cold water once every six, twelve and twenty-four hours, according
to the nature of the case.

Cure for the Heaves.—Give thirty grains of tartar emetic every week until
cured,

Ee). ee ee

SUBDUING WILD HORSES

AND OTHER WILD ANIMALS.

This wonderful art, founded upon a system of philosophy, is infallible and
universal in its application, and extends to all the animal kingdom. In regard
to the horse, it consists in convincing him that you are his superior, and you
have absolute power over him. The system is somewhat akin to animal mag-
netism in its effect, but the process is widely different.

The Process of Taming a very Wild Horse, which was never
handled.—This consists, first by charming him by a powder, which is obtained
by taking the button from the horse’s knee; by which I mean the horny sub-
stance growing on the inside, or rather on the back part of a horse’s legs, below
the knee, behind and above it before. Dry this substance and pulverize it; put
a small quantity into a quill and blow it into his nostrils; in a few minutes it
will operate, and cause him to follow you, or permit you to handle his feet, or
get upon his back. Thus, with perfect ease, may a wild and vicious animal
become gentle and harmless.

Process of Causing 2 Horse to lay down.—Approach him gently upon
the left side, fasten a strap around the ankle of his fore foot; then raise the foot
gently, so as to bring the knee against the breast and the foot against the belly.
The leg being in this position, fasten the strap around his arm, which will effec-
tually prevent him from putting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a
strap around the opposite leg, and bring it over his shoulder, on the left side, so
that you can catch hold of it; then push these gently, and when he goes to fall,
pull the strap which will bring him on his knees.

Now: commence patting him under the belly; by continuing your gentle
strokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his knees be-
hind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down, and submit himself
wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you may handle his feet
and legs in any way you choose.

However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally, after practising this
process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive, and even
disposed to follow you anywhere, and unwilling to leave you on any occasion.

Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient ; but should
he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary to perform the first
named operation, you must contrive to get the powder into his nostrils, this you
will find effectual, and you may then train your horse to harness or anything
else with the utmost ease.

In breaking horses for hamess, after giving the powders, put the harness on
gently, without starting him, and pat him gently, then fasten the chain to 2 log,
which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. When you find him sufli-
ciently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle.

Nore.—Be extremely careful in catching a horse, not to affright him. After
he is caught and the powders given, rub him gently on the head, neck, back and
legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies, but be very careful not
to whip, for a young horse is equally passionate with yourself, and this perni-

cious practice has ruined many fine and valuable horses. When you are riding
a colt, (or even an old horse,) do not whip him if he scares, but draw the bridle,
so that his eyes may rest upon the object which has affrighted him, and pat him
upon the neck as you approach it; by this means you will pacify him, and ren-
der him less liable to start in future.

Means of Learning a Horse to Pace.—Buckle a four pound weight
around the ankles of his hind legs, (lead is preferable,) ride your horse briskly
with those weights upon his ankles, at the same time twitching each rein alter-
nately, by this means you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you
have trained him in this way to some extent, change your leaded weights for
something lighter; leather padding or something equal to it will answer the
purpose; let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained. This
process will make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse.

Horsemanship.—The rider should, in the first place, let the horse know
that he is not afraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the
left hand, draw it tightly, put the left foot into the stirrup, and raise quickly.
When you are seated, press your knees to the saddle, let your leg, from the knee
stand out; turn your toe in and heel out; sit upright in your saddle, throw
your weight forward—one-third of it in the stirrups—and hold your rein tight.
Should your horse scare, you are braced in your saddle and he cannot throw you.

Indication of a Horse’s Disposition.—A long thin neck indicates a good
disposition, contrariwise if it be short and thick. A broad forehead, high be-
tween the ears, indicates a very vicious disposition.

Gures, &c.—Cure ror THE Founprr.—Let one and a half gallons of blood
from the neck vein, make frequent applications of hot water to his fore legs ;
after which, bathe them in wet cloths, then give one quart of linseed oil. The
horse will be ready for service the next day.

Bors.—Mix one pint honey with one pint sweet milk, give as a drench, one
hour after, dissolve one ounce pulverized copperas in a pint of water, use like-
wise, then give one quart of linseed oil. Cure effectual.

Coric.—After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of raw cot-
ton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air; when it
begins to smoke, hold it under the horse’s nose until he becomes easy. Cure
certain in ten minutes.

Distemper.—Take one and a half gallons of blood from the neck vein ; then
give a dose of sassafras oil; one anda half ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy
and certain.

Fisruta.—When it makes its appearance, rowel both sides of the shoulder ;
if it should break, take one ounce virdigris, one ounce oil rosin, one ounce cop-
peras, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve.

Receipt for Bone Spavin or Ring-Bone.—Take a aiselahide of cor-
rosive sublimate ; quicksilver about the size of a bean; three or four drops of
muriatic acid; iodine about the size of a pea, and lard enough to form a paste ;
grind the iodine and sublimate as fine as flour, and put altogether in a cup, mix
well, then shear the hair all off the size you want; wash clean with soapsuds,
rub dry, then apply the medicine.—Let it stay on five days; if it does not take
effect, take it off, mix it over with a little more lard, and add some fresh medi-
cine. When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soapsuds, then apply a poul-
tice of cow-dung, leave it on twelve hours, then apply healing medicine.

Hoxsnrook, Prititer, No. 3 Mechanic-st., Newark, N.J.

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Full text of "The Arabian art of taming and training wild and vicious horses"

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