Travels through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida, the Cherokee country, the extensive territories of the Muscogulges or Creek confederacy, and the country of the Chactaws. Containing an acount of the soil and natural productions of those regions; together with observations on the manners of the Indians

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TRAVELS

THROUGH

NORTH AND SOUTH CAROLINA,
GEORGIA,

EAST AND WEST FLORIDA,

THE CHEROKEE COUNTRY,

THE EXTENSIVE TERRITORIES OF THE MUSCOGULGES
OR CREEK CONFEDERACY,

AND THE COUNTRY OF THE CHACTAWS.
Containing

AN ACCOUNT OF THE SOIL AND NATURAL PRODUC-
TIONS OF THOSE REGIONS;

TOGETHER WITH

OBSERVATIONS ON THE MANNERS OF THE INDIANS,
EMBELLISHED WITH COPPER-PLATES.

By WILLIAM B ART RAM.

PHILADELPHIA: PRINTED EV JAMES AND JOHNSON. 1791.

LONDON:

REPRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, IN ST. PAUL’S CHURCH-YARD.

1792.

HISTORICAL

MEDICAL

c o

N T E

N

1' S

.PART I.

INTRODUCTION.

%

CHAP. I.

The Author embarks at Philadelphia — arrives at Charlefton Page j

CHAP. II.

Embarks again for Georgia and arrives at Savanna — proceeds Southward and
arrives at Sunbury — obfervations on the town, harbour, and ifland of St. Catha-
rine, its foil and productions — account of the eftablilhment of St. John’s diflriCt
and Midway mceting-houfe — defeription of a beautiful fifli — proceeds for the
river Alacamaha, defeription of a tremendous thunder ftorm 4

CHAP. HI.

CrolTes the river at Fort Barrington and arrives at St. Ule — pafles the frontier
fettlemcnts and meets an holtile Indian — erodes the river St. Mary and arrives
at the trading-houfe, account of the country thereabout, its natural productions,
of the lake Ouaquaphcnogaw, faid to be the fource of the river St, Mary — returns
to the Alatamaha and thence to Savanna 16

CHAP. IV.

Sets off from Savanna to Augufta, one hundred fixty-five miles North-Well
from the fea coaft — deferibes the face of the country, the river Savanna, the ca-
taraCts and village of Augufta — congrcfs with the Indians at St. Augufta — the
village of Wrightlborough on kittle River — monuments of an ancient Indian

town on Little River — Buffaloe Lick — begins the furvey of the New Purchafe

high proof of Indian fagacity — returns to Savanna 28

C H A P. V.

The Author leaves Broughton ifland and afeends the Alatamaha — night feene
— a tempeft — defeription of the river — ruins of an ancient fortification — Indian
monuments at the Oakmulge fields — Creeks,' account of their fettlement in
Georgia 47

PART II. .

CHAP. I.

Sets off from Savanna to Eaft Florida, proceeding by land to the Alatamaha—
defeends that river to Frederica on the ifland of St. Simon’s — deferibes the ifland
and the city r -

CHAP. II.

1 Leaves Frederica for the lower trading-houfe on St. Juan’s — pafles through and
deferibes the found, &c. 6 x

CHAP. III.

Leaves Amelia ifland and arrives at the Cowford, on the river St. Juan’s pro-

ceeds up the river alone in a fmall canoe; fuffers by a gale of wind in crofling
the river; is hofpitably entertained at a gentleman’s hotife, where he refits and fails
again — deferibes fort Picolata — various productions, viz. Magnolia grandiflora,
Tillandfia ufneadfeites, floating fields of the Piftia ftratiotes, the river and coun-
try, touches at Charlotteville — arrives at the lower trading-houfe 68

CHAP. IV.

Proceeds farther up the river — pafles by Mount Hope, and comes to at Mount

Royal— deferibes the mount, Indian highway, &c beautiful landfcape of the

country and profpcCt of .the lake— enters Lake George— defeription of the lake—

a 2 forced

IV

CONTENTS.

forced by ft refs of weather to put into the beautiful ifle Edclano, description of
the iftand, ancient Indian town, mount and highway — erodes over the lake and
arrives at the upper trading-houfc yj

CHAP. V.

Provides for continuing his voyage higher tip the river, engages an Indian to
aflill: in navigating his bark, and fets fail, the Indian becomes tired and requefts
to be let on Ihorc — encamps at a delightful Orange grove — continues again alone
up the river : defetiprion of the Palma Elata : enters the Little Lake and comes
to camp at an Orange grove — fight of alligators ; a battle with them ; great cni-
barradments with them ; kills one : vaft adlmblage of fiflt : defeription of the
alligator and its nelV, See. — deferibes the Carica papaya — a very curious bird
— in danger of being taken napping by a huge crocodile — the batiks of the river
admirably ornamented with felloons and tapeftry, the work of nature — fepulchrcs
of the ancients — a hurricane — vifits a plantation on the banks of the Long Lake ;
defeription of the lake, a large fulphureous fountain — account of the founding and
prefent ftate of New Smyrna, on the Mufquitoc river — returns down the river—
Eaft Lake — curious birds and a beautiful fifh — leaves Cedar Point, touches at the
ille of Palms ; robbed by a wolf — arrives at Six Mile Springs — an account of that
admirable fountain — deferibes the Gordonia, Zamia, Caftus opuntia, Erythrina,
Cacalia, &c. — touches at Rocky Point — arrives again at the lower trading-houfc

112

CHAP. VI.

Proceeds on a journey to Cufcotvilla — deferibes the country and waters — An-
riona incana, Annona pygmea, Kalmia ciliata, Empetrum album, Andromeda
ferruginea, Rhododendron fpurium, Pica glandaria non criftata, Lanins, Laccrta,
iinakes, Chionanthus, Andromeda formoliftima, Cyrilla — encamps at the Half-
way Pond — deferibes the poncf and meadows, a beautiful landfcapc — pilgrimage
of fifh — deferibes various kinds of filh — great foft Ihelled tortoife and great land
tortoile — moral refleftions and meditations — leaves Half-way Pond and proceeds
— fituation, quality, and furniture of the earth — arrives at Cufcowilla — recep-
tion from the Indian chief: his charafter — Siminolcs p red i left ion for Spanilh
cuftoms and civilization — India (laves, their condition— departs for the Alachua
favanna; defeription of the favanna — Siminolcs on horfcback — returns to €ufco-
willa — a council and Indian feaft — defeription of the town and Cufcowilla lake-
returns to the favanna — glafs fnake — makes the tour of the favanna — veftiges of
the ancient Alachua — Orange groves, turkeys, deer, wolves, favanna crane — ar-
rives at the great bafon or fink — defeription of the fink — account of the alligators,
incredible number of filh; their fubterrancan migrations — returns — old Spanilh
highway — Indian village — arrives again at the trading-houfc on St. Juan’s — cha-
rafter and comparifon of the nations of the Upper Creeks, and Lower or Siminolcs

16S

CHAP. VII.

Sets out again on a journey to Talahafochte — defeription of the Siminole horfe

encamps at an enchanting grotto on the banks of a beautiful lake — rocky

ridges and defert wilds— engagement between a hawk and the coach-whip fnake

defeription of the fnake— account of the country, grand Pine foreft— encamps

on the borders of an extenfive favanna — defeription of the favanna crane — comes
upon the verge of extenfive favannas, lying on a beautiful lake — the expanfive
fields of Capola, decorated with delightful groves — fquadrons of Siminole horfes —
a troop under the conduft and care of an Indian dog — the fields of Capola a de-
lightful region— ferruginous rocks, rich iron ore — arrives at Talahafochte on the
river Little St. Juan's — deferibes the town and river — Indian canoes— their voy-
ages and traffic— Indian voyage to Cuba— a (idling party and naval race— an ex-
curfion to the Manatee fpring— defeription of that incomparable nymphaeum— an
account of the Manatee — erodes the river to explore the country— Spanilh re-
mains— vaft Cane wilderncftcs— ancient Spanilh plantations — Apalachean old
fields — returns to town— White King's arrival— a council and feaft— charafter

of

C ONTENTS. v

of the king — leaves the town on rcfcarches, and encamps in the forefts— account
of an extraordinary eruption of waters — -joins his companions at camp — enter-
tainment by the White King in Talahafochte — Contee, its preparation and ufc

returns to camp — great defert plains — entertainment with a party of young Siini-

nole warriors — various natural wells and finks; conjectures concerning them

account of the Long Pond, and delightful profpedts adjacent — returns for the trad-

ing-houfe on St. Juan’s — embarrafi'ments occafioned by the wild horfes encamps

at Bird Ifland pond — vaft number of wild fowl tending their nefts — engagement
•with an alligator who furprifed the camp by night — obfervations on the great A-
lachua favanna and its envyrons — arrival at the trading-houfe 2 1 j

CHAP. VIII.

The Author makes an excurfion again up St. Juan’s to Lake George — revifits
Six Mile Springs and Illicium groves, makes collc&ions, and recroflcs the lake

to the Eaftern coaft— that Ihore more bold and rocky than the oppofite coalts

round that Ihore, touching at old deferted plantations — Perennial Cotton— Indigo
— unpardonable devaluation and ncgledt of the white fettlers, with refpeft to the

»ative Orange groves — returns to the trading-houfe ' 250

CHAP. IX.

Indian warriors, their frolic — curious conference with the Long Warrior lu-
dicrous Indian farce relative to a rattle fnake — war farce 253

CHAP. X.

Farther account of the rattle fnake— account and defeription of other fnakes
. an|ma's catalogue of birds of North America; obfervations concerning their
migration, or annual palfages from North to South, and back again 262.

CHAP. XI.

Vif.ts an Indian village on the river— water melon feaft— defeription of the
banqueting-houfe— makes an excurfion acrofs the river; great dangers in eroding-
lands on the oppofite Ihore — difeovers a bee tree, which yielded a great quantity
of honey-returns to the Ihore— embarks for Frederica in Georgia; vifits the plan-
tations down the river; enters the found and paffes through; arrives at Frederica

embarks again— touches at Sunbury — arrives at Charlefton, South Carolina

meditates a journey to the Cherokee country and Creek Nation, in Weft Flo-
rida

Part hi. 301

C H A P. I.

v7'AUrth0r fcts °ut/or the Cherokee territories— paftes through a fine culti-
vated country-croftes Savanna river and enters the ftate of Georgia— Dirca pa-
“wPen’~ «vil entertainment at a plantation— purfues the road to Au-
pifta, and recroffes the river at Silver Bluff— account of Mr. Golphin’s villa and
f0rtM°°rC’ AU^ Savanna rivciy mountains of

CHAP. II. 306

rocceds for fort James, Dartmouth— curious fpecies of Azalia— croffes

roa ncr cftabhlhmcnt of Dartmouth — Indian mount, &c. erodes Savanna

nver—violent guft of rain-curious fpccics of aEfculus pavia— town of Sinica
fort Prince George, Keowe-dcfcribcs the country ™~

5!r£ «»»»«■ 1, “nS

Cow e-incomparable y°Ung trader °" the hills of

nymphs-a freSTc 3 -I-T °f Cherokee

, CkAP.

V

VI

CONTENTS.

CHAP. IV.

Sets off from Whatoga to the Overhill towns— Jorc village— Roaring Creek

the Author and his guide part— furprifed by an Indian— laiute and part friendly
—mountainous vegetable productions - arrives on the top of Jore mountain— fub-
lime profpeds Atta-kul-kulla, grand Cherokee chief — gracious reception — re-
turns to Cowe great council-houfe — curious Indian dance — returns and Hops at
Sinica— arrives again at fort James, Dartmouth— lift of Cherokee towns and
villages

CHAP. V.

Sets off from Dartmouth to the Upper Creeks and Chaflaws country —Flat Rock
—a curious plant— Rocky Comfort— Ocone old Town— migration of the Ocones

— croffes the river— fords the Oakmulge at the Oakmulge fields * Stoncy Creek

Great and Little Tabofachte— new fpecics of Hydrangia— erodes Flint River— dc-
feribes the country — perfected by extraordinary heats and incredible numbers of bit-
ing flies— Hippobofca and Afilus— extraordinary thunderguft— erodes Chat* Uche
river— deferibes the town— very large and populous — proceeds and arrives at the A-
yalachucla tow n- — vifits the old town — extraordinary remains and monuments of
the ancients — general face of the country and vegetable productions — new fpecics

of fEfculus

373

CHAP. VI.

Proceeds, and after three days journey arrives at Tallafe, on the Tallapoofe river
— Coloome, a handfomc town — great plains — further account of the country —
Dog woods — erodes the river Schambc — comes to Taenfii on the tail banks of
the Mobile, thirty miles above the city — French inhabitants — paffes down the
river, arrives at the city of Mobile — lhort account of the city and fort Cond —
returns to Taenfa, and proceeds up the river as far as the entrance of the Chicafaw
branch — floating forells of the Nymphsea Nclumbo — vifits the adjacent lands —
returns to Mobile — goes to the river Perdido — continues on to Pcnfacola — cordi-
ally received by governor Cheftcr — fomc account of thd town — difeovets a new
and beautiful fpecics of Sarracenia — returns to Mobile 3^4

CHAP. VII.

Leaves Mobile for Manchac on the Mifliffippi — proceeds by water to Pearl Ifiand
—kindly entertained by Mr. Rumfey — deferibes the ifiand— large crimfon Plum
— a delicate fpecics of Mimofa — paffes lake Pontchartrain — touches at the river
Taenfapaoa — paffes over Lake Maurepas — proceeds up to Iberville — erodes by land
to Manchac — goes up the Mifliffippi — Settlements of Ncw-Richmond — White
Plains — curious mufcle fhclls in the river — erodes over to Point Coup! — Spanilh
village and fortrefs— high cliffs oppofite Point Coupe— returns to the Amite,
thence down through the lanks and founds back again to Mobile 416

CHAP. VIII.

Leaves Mobile on his return — proceeds with a company of traders for the Creek
nation — his horfe tires — is in great diftrefs — meets a company of traders, of whom
he purchafcs a frelh horfe — Illicium groves — meets a company of emigrants from
Georgia — great embarraffment at a large creek fwollen with late heavy rains—
arrives at the banks of the Alabama— erodes it and arrives at Mucdaffe — Indian
marriage — ferious refledions — perilous fituation of the trader of Mucdaffe — fets
off for Ottaffe— i deferibes the country contiguous to the Tallapoofe river — plan-
tations and towns— Coolome — Tuckabatche— erodes the river and arrives at Ot-
taffe— rotunda and fquare— black drink— fpiral fire— Sabbath or holy day to the
Great Spirit— fets off with a company of traders for Georgia— Chchaw and Uf-
fcta, Creek towns on the Apalachncla river, almoft join each other, yet the in-
habitants fptak two languages radically different— arrives at the Oakmulge —
erodes the river in a portable leather boat— erodes the river Oconne — head
branches of Great Ogcchc— arrives at Augufta— takes leave of Augufta and his
friends there, and proceeds for Savanna — lilt of Mufcogulgc towns and villages —
conjectures concerning the rife of the Mufcogulgc confederacy * 43^

' CHAP.

CONTENTS.

vii

CHAP. IX.

Short cxcurfion in the South of Georgia — makes collections — gathers feed of
two new and very curious Ihrubs 4flr

CHAP. X.

Proceeds for Charlefton — Calls at a gentleman’s plantation — Adoc — Tannier

•wild pigeons — After fruticofus — leaves Charlefton, proceeds on his return home

to Pennfylvania — erodes Cooper river, nine miles above the city — Long Bay

reefs of rocks— meets a gang of Negroes— paffes the boundary-ho ule— large fa-
vanna — Dionaea mufcipula— old towns— Brunfwick— the Clarendon or Cape-
Fear river— North Welt — Livingfton’s creek — Wackamaw lake — Carver’s creek
— A Ih wood —various vegetable produitions — cultivated vegetables— deferibes the
face of the country on the banks of the North Weft and the adjacent lands— ltrata

of the earth or foil — rooks— petrifactions— ancient fubrntirine productions, &c.

leaves Afhwood, continues Op the river — vaft trunks of trees with their roots

and flumps of limbs, with the bark on, turned into very hard ltone Rock-fifh

creek— Crofs Creeks— the rife, progrefs, and prefent ftatc of Cambelton— cu-
rious fpecies of fcandent Fern— Deep River — erotics Haw River— Mehcrren

river in Virginia — Cucurbita lagenaria — curious fpecies of Prinos— Alexandria

George town — fudden fall of fnow — extreme cold — erodes the river Sufquehanna
upon the ice— river Schuylkill— arrives at his father’s houfe, within three miles

of Philadelphia

PART IV.

467

CHAP. I.

Pcrfons, character, and qualifications of the Aborigines — mod: perfeCt human
'figure— Mufcogulge women— women of the Chcrokecs— arrogance of the Muf-
cogulgcs, yet magnanimous and merciful to a vanquilhed enemy Sl

CHAP. II.

Government and civil fociety— conftitution Amply natural— the mico or king
prefides in the fenate-eleetive-yet myfterious-rhe next man in dignity a^d
power is the great war chief— entirely independent of the mico— his voice in coun
cl of the greateft weight concerning military affairs— the high prieft a perfon of
confequence, and maintains great influence in their conftitution and cofmcils of
ftate— thefe Indians not idolaters— tliey adore the Great Spirit, the giver and taker
away of the breath of life, with the moft profound homage and punty-.-ane^Xte

. _ r r CHAP. III.

Drcfs, feafls, and divertiferaents — youth of both aro a

with refpeCt to drefs-their ears laeLted---dcdL pTun^ &r "TT"
fkm — drefs of the females different from that of the men- great- ho™
ftuded and born about by the priefts-infignia of wifdom and divination-S
6f mufic, dancing, and rout;-d,fferent daifes of fongs— variety of fteps in their
dances fetdiole and powerful efihCls— ball play — feltival of the> Bulk 4q‘

CHAP. IV. * .* •

Concerning property, agriculture, arts, and manufaCturcs-privatc property
-produce of their agricultural labours— common plantation— king’s crib
treafn^-women the moft ingenious and vigilant in mechanic arts and maiiufo-

... CHAP. V. 509

Mai riages and funeral rites — -polypamv — -take wiwc wMi/v
children adultery— hiufcogulges bury .Lir tod Z , fi SfJ 7?* ''V™*
cuftoms of the Chadlaws relative to duties to the deceafed b n -Ph ,u’c' j"ftranK<:

retain itffaiS‘d'"mCth°‘1S Which ^ 1,Urfa Purfue tofla^n the in^t’^STand
C H A P. VI. 512

»~*m «he ™-

5*7

INTRODUCTION.

INTRODUCTION.

lH E attention of a traveller fhould be particularly
turned, in the firft place, to the various works of
Nature, to mark the diftin&ions of the climates he
may explore, and to offer fuch ufeful obfervations,
on the different produftions as may occur. Men
and manners undoubtedly hold the firft rank — what-
ever may contribute to our exiftence is alfo of equal
importance, whether it be found in the animal or
. vegetable kingdom ; neither are the various articles,
‘Which tend to promote the happinefs and conve-
nience of mankind, to be difregarded. How far
the writer of the following fheets has fucceeded in
furnifhing information on thefe fubje&s, die reader
will be capable of determining. From the advan-
tages the journalift enjoyed under his father John
Bartram, botanift to the king of Great Britain,
and fellow of die Royal Society, it is hoped that
his labours will prefent new as well as ufeful infor-
mation to the botanift and zoologift.

This world, as a glorious apartment of the bound-
lefs palace of the fovereign Creator, is furnifhed
with an infinite variety of animated fcenes, inex-
preffibly beautiful and pleafing, equally free to the
infpe&ion and enjoyment of all his creatures.

Perhaps there is not any part of creation, within
the reach of our obfervations, which exhibits a more
crlorious difplay of the Almighty hand, than the
vegetable world ; fuch a variety of pleafing fcenes,
ever changing throughout the feafons, arifing from

various

INTRODUCTION,. IX

various caufes, and affigned each to the purpofe and
ufe determined.

It is difficult to pronounce which divifion of the
earth, between the polar circles, produces the greateft
variety. The tropical divifion certainly affords
thofe which principally contribute to the more
luxurious fcenes of fplendour, as Myrtus communis*
Myrt. caryophyllata, Myrt. pimenta, Caryophyllus
aromaticus, Laurus cinnam. Laurus camphor. Lau-
ras Perfica, Mux mofch. Illicium, Camellia, Pu-
nica, Cabtus melo-cabtus* Cabtus grandiflora, Glo-
riofa fuperba, Theobroma* Adanfonia digitata,
Nybtanthes, Pfidium, Mu la paradifica, Mufa fa-
pientum, Garcinia mangoftana, Cocos nucifera, Ci-
trus, Citrus aurantium, Cucurbita citrullus, Hya-
cinthus, Amaryllis, Narciflus, Poinciana pulcherri-
ma, Crinum, Cabtus cochinellifer.

But the temperate zone (including by far the
greater portion of the earth, and a climate the moft
favourable to the increafe and fupport of animal
life, as well as for the exercife and abtivity of the
human faculties) exhibits fcenes of infinitely greater
variety, magnificence, and confequence, with refpebt
to human economy, in regard to the various ufes or
vegetables.

For inftance; Triticum Cereale, which affords
us bread, and is termed, by way of eminence, the
ftaff of life, the moft pleafant and nourifhing food
to all terreftrial animals. Vitis vinifera, whofe ex-
hilarating juice is faid to cheer the hearts of gods
and men. Oryza, Zea, Pyrus, Pyrus malus, Pru-
nes, Pr. cerafus, Ficus, Nebtarin, Apricot, Cydo-
nia. Next follow the illuftrious families of foreft-
trees, as the Magnolia grandiflora and Quercus
fempervirens, which form the venerated groves and
folemn (hades, on the Miffiffippi, Alatamaha and

b Florida ;

X

INTRODUCTION.

Florida; the magnificent Cupreflus difbicha of Ca-
rolina and Florida ; the beautiful Water Oak *,
whofe vaft hemifpheric head prefents the likenefs
of a diftant grove in the fields and favannas of Ca-
rolina; the gigantic Black Oak f, Platanus occi-
dentalis, Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Liriodendron tu-
lipifera, Fagus eaftanea, Fagus lylvatica, Juglans
nigra, Juglans cinerea, Jug. pecan, Ulmus, Acer
faccharinum, of Virginia and Pennfylvania ; Pinus
phoenix, Pinus toeda, Magnolia acuminata, Nyfia
aquatica, Populus heterophylla, and the floriferous
Gordonia lafianthus, of Carolina and Florida ; the
exalted Pinus ftrobus, Pin. balfamica, Pin. abies.
Pin. Canadenfis, Pin. larix, Fraxinus excelfior, Ro-
binia pfeudacacia, Guilandina dioica, ./Efculus Vir-
ginica, Magnolia acuminata, of Virginia, Mary-
land, Pennfylvania, New Jerfey, New York, New
England, Ohio, and the regions of Erie and the
Illinois; and the aromatic and floriferous flirubs,
as Azalea coccinea, Azalea rofea, Rofa, Rhodo-
dendron, Kalmia, Syringa, Gardenia, Calycanthus,
Daphne, Franklinia, Sty rax, and others equally
celebrated.

In eveiy order of nature we perceive a variety
of qualities diftributed amongft individuals, defigned
for different purpofes and ufes ; yet it appears evi-
dent, that the great Author has impartially diftri-
buted his favours to his creatures, fo that the attri-
butes of each one feem to be of fufficient import-
ance to manifeft the divine and inimitable work-
manfhip. The pompous Palms of Florida, and
glorious Magnolia, ftrikes us with the fenfe of dig-
nity and magnificence ; the expanfive umbrageous
Live Oak | with awful veneration ; the Carica

• Quctrus Hcmifpherka. -j- Qucrcus tmftoria. J Qiicrcus fempcrvircus.

6 papaya.

introductions xi

papaya feems fupercilious with all the harrhony of
beauty and gracefulnefs ; the Lilium fuperbum re-
prefents pride and vanity * Kalmia latifolia and Aza-
lea coccinea, exhibit a perfect flhow of mirth and
gaiety ; the Illicium Floridanum, Crinum Florida-
num, Convallaria majalis of the Cherokees, and
Calycanthus floridus, charm with their beauty and
fragrance. Yet they are not to be compared for
ufefulnefs with the nutritious Triticum, Zea, Oryza,
Solanum tuberofum, Mufa, Convolvulus Batata,
Rapa, Orchis, Vitis vinifera, Pyrus, Olea * for cloth-
ing with Linum Cannabis, Goflypium, Morus * for
medicinal virtues with HylTopus, Thymus* Anthemis
nobilis, Papaver fomniferum, Quinquina, Rheum
rhabarbarum, Pifum, &c. Though none of thefe
moft ufeful tribes are confpicuous for ftatelinefs,
figure, or fplendour, yet their valuable qualities and
virtues excite love, gratitude, and adoration to
the great Creator, who was pleafed to endow them
with fuch eminent qualities, and reveal them to
us for our fuftenance, amufement, and delight.

But there remain of the vegetable world feve-
ral tribes that are diftinguifhed by very remarkable
properties, which excite our admiration, fome for
the elegance, Angularity, and fplendour of their veft-
ment, as the Tulipa, Fritillaria, Colchicum, Pri-
mula, Lilium fuperbum, Kalmia, &c. : others

aftonilh us by their figure and difpofal of their vef-
ture, as if defigned only to embellifh and pleafe
the obferver, as the Nepenthes diftillatoria, Ophrys
infeftoria, Cypripedium calceolus, Hydrangia quer-
cifolia, Bartramia brafleata. Viburnum Canadenfe, •
Bartfia, &c.

Obferve thefe green meadows how they are de-
corated* they feem enamelled with the beds of
flowers. The blulhing Chironia and Rhexia, the

t> 2 fpiral

&li iftTROOUCriON.

lpiral Ophrys with immaculate white flowers, the
Limodorum, Arethufa pulcherrima, Sarracenia pur-
purea, Sarracenia galeata, Sarracenia lacunofa,
Sarracenia flava. Shall we analyze thefe beautiful
plants, fince they feem cheerfully to invite us ? How
greatly the flowers of the yellow Sarracenia repre-
fent a lilken canopy ? the yellow pendant petals are
the curtains, and the hollow leaves are not unlike
the cornucopia or Amalthea’s horn ; what a quan-
tity of water a leaf is capable of containing, about
a pint ! tafle of it — how cool and animating — lim-
pid as the morning dew: nature feems to have fur-
nifhed them with this cordated appendage or lid,
which turns over, to prevent a too fudden and
copious lupply of water from heavy fhowers of rain,
which would bend down the leaves, never to rife
again ; becaufe their ftraight parallel nerves, which
extend and fupport them, are fo rigid and fragile,
the leaf would inevitably break when bent down to
a right angle ; therefore I fuppofe the waters which
contribute to their fupply, are the rebounding
drops or horizontal ftreams wafted by the winds,
which adventitioufly find their way into them, when
a blaft of wind fhifts the lid : fee thefe fhort ftifF
hairs, they all point downwards, which diredt the con-
denfed vapours down into the funiculum ; thefe ftifF
hairs alfo prevent the varieties of infedts, which are
caught from returning, being' invited down to fip the
mellifluous exudation, from the interior furface of the
tube, where they inevitably perifh ; what quantities
there are of them ! Thefe latent waters undoubtedly
contribute to the fupport and refrefhment of the
plant : perhaps defigned as a refervoir in cafe of long
continued droughts, or other cafualties, fince thefe
plants naturally dwell in low favannas liable to
overflows, from rain water : for although I am not

INTRODUCTION.

XlH

of the opinion that vegetables receive their nourifk-
ment only through the afcending part of the plant,
as the Hem, branches, leaves,, &c. ; and that their
defcending parts, as the root and fibres, only ferve
to hold and retain them in their places ; yet I be-
lieve they imbibe rain and dews through their
leaves, ftems, and branches, by extremely minute
pores, which open on both furfaces of the leaves
and on the branches, which may communicate to
little auxiliary duds or vefleis ; or, perhaps the
cool dews and Ihowers, by conftriding thefe pores,
and thereby preventing a too free perfpiration, may
recover and again invigorate the languid nerves of
thofe which feem to fuffer for want of water, in
great heats and droughts ; but whether the infeds
caught in their leaves, and which diflolve and mix
with the fluid, ferve for aliment or fupport to
thefe kind of plants, is doubtful. All the Sarra-
cenias are infed catchers, and fo is the Droflea
rotundifolia.

_ But admirable are the properties of the extraor-
dinary Dionea mufcipula ! A. great extent on each
fide of that ferpentine rivulet is occupied by thofe
fportive vegetables — let us advance to the fpot in
which nature has feated them. Aftonifhing pro-
duction ! fee the incarnate lobes expanding, how
gay and fportive they appear ! ready on the fpring
to intrap incaudous deluded infeds ! what artifice '
there behold one of the leaves juft clofed upon a
ftrugghng fly; another has gotten a worm; its hold is
lure, its prey can never efcape — carnivorous vege-
table ! Can we after viewing this objed, hefitate a
moment to confefs, that vegetable beings are en-
dued with fome fenfible faculties or attributes
iimuar to thofe that dignify animal nature ; they are

organicah,

b 3

xiv

INTRODUCTION.

organical, living, and felf-moving bodies, for we
fee here, in this plant, motion and volition.

What power or faculty is it, that directs the cirri
of the Cucurbita, Momordica, Vitis, and other
climbers, towards the twigs of Ihrubs, trees, and
other friendly fupport ? we fee them invariably lean-
ing, extending, and like the fingers of the human
hand, reaching to catch hold of what is neareft,
juft as if they had eyes to fee with ; and when their
hold is fixed, to coil the tendril in a fpiral form,
by which artifice it becomes more elaftic and effec-
tual, than if it had remained in a direct line, for
every revolution of the coil adds a portion of
ftrength ; and thus colledted, they are enabled to
dilate and contradl as occafion or neceflity requires,
and thus by yielding to, and humouring the motion
of the limbs and twigs, or other fupport on which
they depend, are not fo liable to be torn off by
fudden blafts of wind or other affaults; is it fenfe or
inftindt that influences their adtions ? it muft be
fome impulfe ; or does the hand of the Almighty
act and perform this work in our fight ?

The vital principle or efficient caufe of motion
and adtion, in the animal and vegetable * fyftem,
perhaps, may be more fimilar than we generally ap-
prehend. Where is the effential difference between
the leed of peas, peaches, and other tribes of
plants and trees, and the eggs of oviparous ani-
mals, as of birds, fnakes, or butterflies, fpawn of
fiffi, &c. ? Let us begin at the fource of terreftrial
exi flence. Are not the feeds of vegetables, and the
eggs of oviparous animals fecundated, or influenced
with the vivific principle of life, through the approxi-
mation and intimacy of the Texes ? and immediately
after the eggs and feeds are hatched, does not the

* Yid. Sponlalia plantanim, Amcen. Acad 1. n. 12. Linn.

young

INTRODUCTION.

XV

young larva and infant plant, by heat and moifture,
rife into exiftence, increafe, and in due time arrive
to a ftate of perfect maturity? The phyfiologifts
agree in opinion, that the work of generation in
viviparous animals, is exattly fimilar, only more
fecret and enveloped. The mode of operation that
nature purfues in the production of vegetables, and
oviparous animals, is infinitely more uniform and
manifeft, than that which is or can be difcovered to
take place in viviparous animals.

The moft apparent difference between animals
and vegetables is, that animals have the powers of
found, and are locomotive, whereas vegetables are
not able to fhift themfelves from the places where
nature has planted them : yet vegetables have the
power of moving and exercifing their members, and
have the means of tranfplanting or colonifing their
tribes almoft over the furface of the whole earth ;
fome feeds, for inftance, grapes, nuts, fmilax, peas,
and others, whofe pulp or kernel is food for ani-
mals, will remain feveral days without being in-
jured in ftomachs of pigeons and other birds of
paffage; by this means fuch forts are diftributed
from place to place, even acrofs feas; indeed fome
feeds require this preparation by the digeftive heat
of the ffomach of animals, to diffolve and detach
the oily, vifcid pulp, or to foften the hard fhells.
Small feeds are fometimes furnifhed with rays of
hair or down; and others with thin light membranes
attached to them, which ferve the purpofe of wings,
on which they mount upward, leaving the earth,
float in the air, and are carried away by the fwift
winds to very remote regions before they fettle on
the earth; fome are furnifhed with hooks, which
catch hold of the wool and hair of animals pafling
by them, and are by that means fpread abroad;

b 4 other

KV1 INTRODUCTION.

other feeds ripen in pericarpes, which open with
elaftic force, and fhoot their feed to a very great
diflance round about ; fome other feeds, as of the
Modes and Fungi, are io very minute as to be in-
vifible, light as atoms, and thefe mixing with the
air, are wafted all over the world.

The animal creation alfo excites our admiration,
and equally manifefts the almighty power, wifdom,
and beneficence of the Supreme Creator and Sove-
reign Lord of the univerfe ; fome in their vaft fize
and ftrength, as the mammoth, the elephant, the
whale, the lion, and alligator ; others in agility ;
others in their beauty and elegance of colour,
plumage, and rapidity of flight, having the faculty
of moving and living in the air; others for their
immediate and indifpenfable ufe and convenience
to man, in furnifhing means for our clothing and
fuftenance, and adminiftering to our help in the
toils and labours of life : how wonderful is the met
chanifm of thefe finely formed felf-moving beings,
how complicated their fyftem, yet what unerring
uniformity prevails through every tribe and parti-
cular fpecies ! the effeft we fee and contemplate,
fhe caufe is invifible, incomprehenfible ; how can
it be otherwifej1 when v/e cannot fee the end or
origin of a nerve or vein, while the divifibility of
matter or fluid, is infinite, We admire the me-
chanifm of a watch, and the fabric of a piece of
brocade, as being the produ&ion of art ; thefe merit
our admiration, and mud excite our efteem for the
ingenious artilt or modifier ; but nature is the work
of God omnipotent ; and an elephant, nay even this
world, is comparatively but a very minute part of
his wc#ks. If then the vifible, the mechanical part
of the animal creation, the mere material part, is
fo admirably beautiful, harmonious, and incompre-

henfible,

INTRODUCTION.

xVii

henfible, what muft be the intellectual fyftem ? that
inexpreffibly more dTential principle, which fecretly
operates within ? that which animates the inimitable
machines, which gives them motion, • impowers
them to a£t, fpeak, and perform, dais muft be
divine and immortal ?

I am fenfible that the general opinion of philo-
fophers, has diftinguilhed the moral fyftem of the
brute creature from that of mankind, by an epithet
which implies a mere mechanical impulfe, which
leads and impels them to neceffary adtions, without
any premeditated defign or contrivance ; this we
term inftinft, which faculty we fuppofe to be infe-
rior to reafon in man.

The parental and filial affetftions feem to be as
ardent, their fenfibility and attachment as aCtive
and faithful, as thofe obferved in human nature.

When travelling on the eaft coaft of the ifthmus
of Florida, afcending the fouth Mufquito river, in
a canoe, we obferved numbers of deer and bears,
near the banks, and on the iflands of the river;
the bears were feeding on the fruit of the dwarf
creeping Chamasrops ; (this fruit is of the form and
fize of dates, and is delicious and nourifhing food :)
we faw eleven bears in the courfe of the day, they
Jeemed no way furprifed or affrighted at the fight
of us. In the evening, my hunter, who was an
excellent markfman, faid that he would fhoot one
of them, for the fake of the fkin and oil, for we
had plenty and variety of provifions in our bark.
We accordingly, on fight of two of them, planned
our approaches as artfully as poffible, by eroding
over to the oppofite fhore, in order to get under
pover of a fmall ifland ; this we cautioufly coafted
round, to a point, which we apprehended would
take us within fhot of the bears ; but here finding

ourfelves

Xviii INTRODUCTION.

ourfelves at too great a diltance from them, and
difcovering that we rauft openly fhow ourfelves, we
had no other alternative to efl'edt our purpofe, but
making oblique approaches. We gained gradually
on our prey by this artifice, without their noticing
us : finding ourfelves near enough, the hunter fired,
and laid the largelt dead on the fpot where fhe
flood; when presently the other, not feeming the
lead moved at the report of our piece, approached
the dead body, fmelled, and pawed it, and ap-
pearing in agony, fell to weeping and looking up-
wards, then towards us, and cried out like a child.
Whilft our boat approached very near, the hunter
was loading his rifle in order to fhoot the furvivor,
which was a young cub, and the flain fuppofed to
be the darn. The continual cries of this afflicted
child, bereft of its parent, affedted me very fenfi-
bly; I was moved with companion, and charging
myfelf as if accelkiry to what now appeared to
be a cruel murder, endeavoured to prevail on the
hunter to fave its life, but to no effedt ! for by
habit he had become infenfible to companion to-
wards the brute creation : being now within a few
yards of the harmlefs devoted vidtim, he fired, and
laid it dead upon the body of the dam..

If we bellow but very little attention to the
economy of the animal creation, we fhall find ma-
nifelt examples of premeditation, perfeverance, re-
folution, and confummate artifice, in order to effedt
their purpofes. The next morning, after the (laughter
of the bears, whilft my companions were linking
pur tent and preparing to re-embark, I refolved to
make a little botanical excurfion alone : eroding
over a narrow ilthmus of land hills which feparated
the river from the ocean, I palled over a pretty
high hill, its fummit crelted with a few palm trees,

furrounded

INTRODUCTION.

xix

furrounded with an Orange grove : this hill, whofe
bafe was wafhed on one fide by the floods of the
Mufquitoe river, and on the other fide by the bil-
lows of the ocean, was about one hundred yards
diameter, and feemcd to be an entire heap of fea
fhells. I continued along the beach a quarter of
a mile, and came up to a foreft of the Agave vivi-
para (though compofed of herbaceous plants, I
term it a foreft, becaufe their fcapes or flower-
ftems arole eredt near 30 feet high) : their tops re-
gularly branching in the form of a pyramidal tree,
and thefe plants growing near to each other, occu-
pied a fpace of ground of feveral acres : when their
feeds are ripe they vegetate, and grow on the
branches, until the fcape dries, when the young
plants fall to the ground, take root, and fix them-
felves in the fand : the plant grows to a prodigious
fize before the fcape fhoots up from its centre.
Having contemplated this admirable grove, I pro-
ceeded towards the fhrubberies on the banks of the
river, and though it was now late in December,
the aromatic groves appeared in full bloom. The
broad-leaved fweet Myrais, Erythrina coralloden-
drum, Cadtus cochinellifer, Cacalia fufffuticofa, and
particularly, Rhizophora conjugata, which flood
clofe to and in the fait water of the river, were in
full bloom, with beautiful white fweet fcented flowers,
which attradled to them two or three fpecies of very
beautiful butterflies, one of which was black, the
upper pair of its wings very long and narrow,
marked with tranfverfe ftripes of pale yellow, with
fome fpots of a crimfon colour near the body. Ano-
ther fpecies remarkable for lplendour, was of a larger
fize j the wings were undulated and obtufely cre-
nated round their ends, the nether pair terminating
»7ear the body, with a long narrow forked tail j the

ground

XX

INTRODUCTION.

ground light yellow, ftriped oblique-tranfverfely,
with ftripes of pale celeftial blue, the ends of them
adorned with little eyes encircled with the fineft
blue and crimfon, which reprefented a very brilliant
rofary. But thofe which were the molt numerous
were as white as fnow, their wings large, their ends
lightly crenated and ciliated, forming a fringed bor-
der, faintly marked with little black crefcents, their
points downward, with a duller of little brilliant
orbs of blue and crimfon, on the nether wings near
the body; the numbers were incredible, and there
feemed to be icarcely a flower for each fly, multi-
tudinous as they were, befides clouds of them hover-
ing over the mellifluous groves. Befides thefe pa-
piles, a variety of other infedls come in for a fhare,
particularly leveral fpecies of bees.

As I was gathering fpecimens of flowers from the
Ihrubs, I was greatly furprifed at the fudden ap-
pearance of a remarkably large fpider on a lea f,
of the genus Araneus faliens : at fight of me he
boldly faced about, and raifed himfelf up, as if ready
to fpring upon me; his body was about the flze of
a pigeon’s egg, of a buff colour, which, widi his
legs, were covered with Ihort filky hair ; on the top
of the abdomen was a round red fpot or ocelle en-
circled with black. After I had recovered from the
furprife, obferving that the wary hunter had retired
under cover, I drew near again, and prefently dif-
covered that I had furprifed him on predatory at-
tempts againft the infedt tribes. I was therefore
determined to watch his proceedings. I foon no-
ticed that the objedt of his wilhes was a large fat
bomble bee (apis bombylicus), that was viflting the
flowers, and piercing their nedtariferous tubes : this
cunning intrepid hunter condudted his fubtil ap-
proaches with the circumfpedtion and perfeverance

INTRODUCTION.

XX?

of a Siminole when hunting a deer, advancing with
flow fteps obliquely, or under cover of denfe foli-
age, and behind the limbs, and when the bee was
engaged in probing a flower, he would leap nearer,
and then inftantly retire out of fight, under a leaf or
behind a branch, at the fame time keeping a fharp
eye upon me. When he had now gotten within two
feet of his prey, and the bee was intent on flipping
the delicious neftar from a flower, with his back
next the flpider, he inftantly flprang upon him, and
grafped him over the back and fhoulder, when for
flome moments they both diflappeared. I expedted
the bee had carried off his enemy, but to my fur-
prifle, they both together rebounded back again,
fluflpended at the extremity of a ftrong elaftic thread
or web, which the flpider had artfully let fall, or
fixed on the twig, the inftant he leaped from it : the
rapidity of the bee’s wings, endeavouring to extricate
himfelf, made them both together appear as a mov-
ing vapour, until the bee became fatigued by whirl-
ing round, firft one way and then back again : at
length, in about a quarter of an hour, the bee quite
exhaufted by his ftruggles, and the repeated wounds
of the butcher, became motionlefs, and quickly ex-
pired in the arms of the devouring fpider, who,
afcending the rope with his game, retired to feaft on
it under cover of the leaves ; and perhaps before
night, became himfelf the delicious evening repaft
of a bird or lizard.

Birds are in general focial and benevolent crea-
tures j intelligent, ingenious, volatile, active be-
ings ; and this order of animal creation confifts of
various nations, bands, or tribes, as may be ob-
ferved from their different flrufture, manners, and
languages, or voice; each nation, though flubdi-
vided into many different tribes, retaining its ge-
^ neral

INTRODUCflOW.

xx-ii

neral form or ftrufture, a fimilarity of cuftoms, and
a fort of dialedt or language, particular to that na-
tion or genus from which thofe tribes feem to have
defcended or feparated. What I mean by a language
in birds, is the common notes or fpeech, that they
ufe when employed in feeding themfelves and their
young, calling on one another, as well as their me-
naces againft their enemy ; for their fongs feem to
be mufical compofitions, performed only by the
males, about the time of incubation, in part to di-
vert and amufe the female, entertaining her with
melody, &c. This harmony, with the tender lo-
licitude of the male, alleviates the toils, cares, and
diftreffes of the female, confoles her in folitary re-
tirement whilft fitting, and animates her with affec-
tion and attachment to himfelf in preference to any
other. The volatility of their fpecies, and opera-
tion of their paflions and affettions, are particularly
confpicuous in the different tribes of the thrufh, fa-
mous for fong. On a fweet May morning we fee
the red thrufhes (turdus rufus) perched on an ele-
vated fprig of the fnowy Hawthorn, fweet flower-
ing Crab, or other hedge fhrub, exerting their ac-
complifhments in fong, ftriving by varying and ele-
vating; their voices to excel each other ; we obferve

O # t.

a very agreeable variation, not only in tone but in
modulation; the voice of one is fhrill, of another
lively and elevated, of others fonorous and quiver-
ing. The mock-bird (turdus polyglottos) who ex-^
cels, diftinguifhes himfelf in a variety of action as
well as air ; from a turret he bounds aloft with the
celerity of an arrow, as it were to recover or recal
his very foul, expired in the laft elevated ftrain.
The high forefts are filled with the fymphony of the
fong or wood thrufh (turdus minor).

Both fexes of fome tribes of birds fing equally

finely i

INTRODUCTION.

xxiil

finely; and it is remarkable, that thefe reciprocally
affift in their domeftic cares, as building their nefts
and fitting on their eggs, feeding and defending
their young brood, &c. The oriolus (iCterus,
Cat.) is an inftance of this cafe; and the female of
the iCterus minor is a bird of more fplendid and gay
drefs than the male bird. Some tribes of birds
will relieve and rear up the young and helplefs, of
their own and other tribes,' when abandoned. Ani-
mal fubftance feems to be the firft food of all birds,
even the granivorous tribes.

Having pafied through fome remarks, which ap-
peared of fufficient confequence to be offered to the
public, • and which were mofl fuitable to have a
place in the introduction, I fhall now offer fuch ob-
fervations as muft neceffarily occur, from a careful
attention to, and inveftigation of, the manners of
the Indian nations; being induced, while travel-
ing among them, to alfociate with them, that I
might judge for myfelf, whether they were deferving
of the fevere cenfure which prevailed againft them
among the white people, that they were incapable
of civilization.

In the confideradon of this important fubjeCt it
will be neceffary to inquire, whether they were in-
clined to adopt the European modes of civil focie-
ty? Whether fuch a reformation could be obtained,
without ufing coercive or violent means ? And laftly,
whether fuch a revolution would be productive of
real benefit to them, and confequently beneficial to
the public ? I was fatisfied in difcovering that they
were defirous of becoming united with us, in civil
and religious fociety.

It may, therefore, not be foreign to the fubjeft,
to point out the propriety of fending men of abi-
lity and virtue, under the authority of government,

as

INTRODUCTION*.

XXIV

as friendly vifitors, into their towns : let thefe meri
he inftrudbed to learn perfedtly their languages, and
by a liberal and friendly intimacy become acquaint-
ed with their cuftoms and ufages, religious and ci-
vil j their fyftem of legiflation and police, as well
as their moft ancient and prefent traditions and hif-
tory. Thefe men thus enlightened and inftrudted
would be qualified to judge equitably, and when re-
turned to us, to make true and juft reports, which
might affift the legiflature of the United States to
form, and offer to them, a judicious plan for their
civilization and union with us.

But I prefume not to didtate in thefe high con-
cerns of government, and I am fully convinced that
fuch important matters are far above my ability j
the duty and refpedt we owe to religion and recti-
tude, the moft acceptable incenfe we offer to the
Almighty, as an atonement for our negligence in
the care of the prefent and future wellbeing of our
Indian brethren, induce me to mention this matter,
though perhaps of greater concernment than we ge-
nerally are aware.

TK AVJiLS

' V

I

I • '«

+J

*■ , • ’ ' *• .

TRAVELS

I N

NORTH AMERICA.

» / . v

CHAP. I.

THE AUTHOR SETS SAIL FROM PHILADELPHIA, AND
ARRIVES AT CHARLESTON, FROM WHENCE HI
BEGINS HIS TRAVELS.

At the requeft of Dr. Fothergil], 'of London, to
fearch the Floridas, and the weftern parts of Ca-
rolina and Georgia, for the difcovery of rare and
ufeful productions of nature, chiefly in the vege-
table kingdom; in April, 1773, I embaiked for
Charlefton, South Carolina, on board the brigan-
tine Charlefton packet, captain Wright, the brig

} capcain Mafon, being in company with

us, and bound to the fame port. W e had a plea-
fant run down the Delaware, 150 miles to cape
Henlopcn, the two vefleis entering the Atlantic to-
gether. For the firft twenty-four hours we had a
profperous gale, and were cheerful and happy in
the profpeCt of a quick and pleafant voyage ; but,
alas! how vain and uncertain are human expecta-
tions!. how quickly is the flattering fcene chang-
ed! The powerful winds, now rulhing forth from

B their

I

TRAVELS IN

their fecret abodes, fuddenly fpread terror and de-
valuation ; and the wide ocean, which, a few mo-
ments pad, was gentle and placid, is now thrown
into diforder, and heaped into mountains, whole
white curling creds feem to fweep the Ikies!

This furious gale continued near two days and
nights, and not a little damaged our fails, cabin
furniture, and ftate-rooms, befides retarding our
palfage. The dorm having abated, a lively gale
from N. W. continued four or five days, when
shifting to N. and ladly to N. E. on the tendi of
our departure from cape Henlopen, early in the
morning, we deferied a fail a(lern, and in a fhort
time difeovered it to be capt. Mafon, who foon
came up with us. We hailed each other, being
joyful to meet again, after fo many dangers. He
differed greatly by the gale, but providentially
made a good harbour within cape Hatteras. As he
ran by us, he threw on board ten or a dozen bals,
a large and delicious filb, having caught a great
number of them whild he was detained in harbour.
He got into Charledon that evening, and we the
next morning, about eleven o’clock.

There are few objefts out at fea to attrail; the
notice of the traveller, but what are fublime, aw-
ful, and majedic: the feas themfelves, in a tem-
ped, exhibit a tremendous feene, where the winds
affert their power, and, in furious conflict, feem to
fet the ocean on fire. On the other hand, nothing
can be more fublime than the view of the encir-
cling horizon, after the turbulent winds have taken
their flight, and the’ lately agitated bofom of the
deep has again become calm and pacific j the gen-
tle moon rifing in dignity from the ead, attended
by thoufands of glittering orbs; the luminous ap-
pearance

NORTH AMERICA.

3

pearance of the feas at night, when all the waters
feem tranfmuted into liquid filver ; the prodigious
bands of' porpoifes foreboding tempeft, that appear
to cover the ocean; the mighty whale, fovereign
of the watery realms, who cleaves the feas in his
courfe; the fudden appearance of land from the
fea, the ftrand ftretching each way, beyond the ut-
moft reach of fight; the alternate appearance and
recefs of the coaTt, whilft the far diftant blue hills
fiowly retreat and difappear; or, as we approach
the coaft, the capes and promontories firft ftrike
our fight, emerging from the watery expanfe, and,
like mighty giants, elevating their crefts towards
the fkies ; the water fuddenly alive with its fcaly in-
habitants ; fquadrons of fea-fowl fweeping through
the air, impregnated with the breath of fragrant
aromatic trees and flowers ; the amolitude and
magnificence of thefe fcenes are great indeed, and
may prefent to the imagination, an idea of the firft
appearance of the earth to man at the creation.

On my arrival at Charlefton, I waited on dodtor
Chalmer, a gentleman of eminence in his profeflion
and public employments, to whom I was recom-
mended by my worthy patron, and to whom I was
to apply for counfel and afliftance, for carrying into
effedt my intended travels. The dodtor received
me with perfect politenefs, and, on every occafion,
treated me with friendfhip; and by means of the
countenance which he gave me, and the marks of
efteem with which he honoured me, I became ac-
quainted with many of the worthy families, not
only of Carolina and Georgia, but alfo in the diftant
countries of Florida.

B a

CFIAP,

4

TRAVELS IN

CHAP. II.

Arriving in Carolina very early in the fpring,
vegetation was not fufficiently advanced to invite
me into the weftern parts of this ftate ; from which
circumftance, I concluded to make an excurfion
into Georgia; accordingly, I embarked on board a
coafting veflel, and in twenty-four hours arrived in
Savanna, the capital, where, acquainting the go-
vernor, Sir J. Wright, with my bufinefs, his ex-
cellency received me with great politenefs, fhewed
me every mark of efteem and regard, and furnilh-
ed me with letters to the principal inhabitants of
the ftate, which were of great fervice to me. An-
other circumftance very opportunely occurred on
my arrival : the aftembly was then fitting in Sa-
vanna, and feveral members lodging in the fame
houfe where I took up my quarters, I became ac-
quainted with feveral worthy characters, who in-
vited me to call at their feats occafionally, as I
pafied through die country; particularly the hon.
B. Andrews, efq. a diftinguifhed, patriotic, and li-
beral character. This gentleman’s feat, and well
cultivated plantations, are fituated near the fouth
high road, which I often travelled; and I feldom
pafled his houfe without calling to fee him, for it
was the feat of virtue, where hofpitality, piety,
and philolophy, formed the happy family ; where
die weary traveller and ftranger found a hearty
welcome, and from whence it muft be his own
fault if he departed without being greatly be-
nefited.

After

KORTH AMERICA.

5

After retting, and a little recreation for a few
days in Savanna, and having in the mean time
purchafed a good horfe, and equipped myfelf for a
journey fouthward, I fat off early in the morning
for Sunbury, a fea-port town, beautifully fituated
on the main, between Medway and Newport ri-
vers, about fifteen miles fouth of great Ogeeche
river. The town and harbour are defended from
the fury of the feas by the north and fouth points
of St. Helena and South Catharine’s iflands ; be-
tween which is the bar and entrance into the found:
the harbour is capacious and fafe, and has water
enough for ihips of great burthen. I arrived here
in the evening, in company with a gentleman, one
of the inhabitants, who politely introduced me to
one of the principal families, where I fupped and
fpept the evening in a circle of genteel and polite
ladies and gentlemen. Next day, being defirous of
vifiting the iflands, I forded a narrow fhoal, part
of the found, and landed on one of them, which
employed me the whole day to explore. The ttrr-
face and vegetable mould here is generally a loofe
fand, not very fertile, except fome fpots bordering
on the found and inlets, where are found heaps or
mounds of fea-lhell, either formerly brought there
by the Indians, who inhabited the ifland, or which
were perhaps thrown up in ridges, by the beatina
furface of the fea : poflibly both thefe circumftances
may have contributed to’ their formation. Thefe
fea fhells, through length of time, and the fubtle
penetrating effects of the air, which diflfolve them
to earth, render thefe ridges very fertile j and
when clear of their trees, and cultivated, they
become profufely productive of almoft every kind
of vegetable. Here are alfo large plantations of

® 3 indigo.

^ TRAVELS IN

indigo, corn, and potatoes *, with many other forts
of efculent plants. I obferved, amongft the fhells
of the conical mounds, fragments of earthen vef-
fels, and of other utenfils, the manufacture of the
ancients : about the centre of one of them, the rirn
of an earthen pot appeared amongft the fhells and
earth, which I carefully removed, and drew it out,
almoft whole : this pot was curioufly wrought all
over the outfide, reprefenting bafket work, and was
undoubtedly efteemed a very ingenious perform-
ance, by the people, at the age of its conftruchon.
The natural produce of thefe teftaceous ridges, be-
fides many of lefs note, are, the great Laurel 1 _ree,
(Magnolia granditlora) Pinus tasda, Laurus Bci-
bonia, Quercus fempervirens, or Live Oak, 1 runus
Lauro-cerafus, Ilex aquifolium, Corypha palma,
Tuniperus Americana. The general furface of the
ifland being low, and generally level, produces a
ver great variety of trees, fhrubs, and herbaceous
plants; particularly the great long-leaved Pitch-
Pine, or Broom -Pine, Pinus paluftns, Pinus fqua-
mofa, Pinus lutea, Gordonia L.afianthus, Liquid
ambar (Styraciflua) Acer rubrum, Fraxinus excel-
cior, Fraxinus aquatica, Quercus aquatica, Quercus
phillos, Quercus dentata, Quercus humila vanetas,
Vaccinium varietas, Andromeda vanetas, 1 rinos va-
rietas, Ilex varietas, Viburnum prumfolium, V. den-
tatum, Cornus Borida, C. alba, C. fangumea, Car-
pinus betula, C. oftrya, Itea Clethrp almfoha, Hale-
fia tetraptera, H. diptera, Iva, Rhamnus fr«mgu ,
Callicarpa, Morus rubra, Sapindu., Caffine, and
fuc, as grow near water counes, round
ponds and favannas, FothergiHa gardmi, Mynca
ceritera. Oka Americana, Cynlla racemidora.

* Convolvulus batata.

Magnolia

NORTH AMERICA. 7

'

Magnolia glauca, Magnolia pyramidata, Cercis,
Kalmia angullifolia, Kalmia ciliata, Chionanthus,
Cephalanthos, /Efculus parva ■, and the interme-
diate fpaces, furrounding and lying between the
ridges and favannas, are interfered with plains of
the dwarf prickly fan-leaved Palmetto, and lawns
of grafs variegated with {lately trees of the great
Broom-Pine, and the fpreading ever-green Water-
Oak, either difpofed in clumps, or fcatteringly
planted by nature. The upper lurface, or vegeta-
tive foil of the ifland, lies on a foundation, or lira-
turn, of tenacious cinereous-coloured clay, which
perhaps is the principal fupport of the vail growth
of timber that arifes from the lurface, which is
little more than a mixture of fine white fand and
dilfolved vegetables, ferving as a nurlery bed to
hatch or bring into exillence the infant plant,
and to fupply it with aliment and food, fuitable to
its . delicacy and tender frame, until the roots, ac-
quiring fufficient extent and folidity to lay hold of
the clay, foon attain a magnitude and liability fuf-
ficient to maintain its ftation. Probably if this clay
were dug out, and call upon the lurface, after be-
ing meliorated by the faline or nitrous qualities of
the air, it would kindly incorporate with the loofe
fand, and become a pro'du&ive and lafting manure.

•n roe^uc^J or deer, are numerous on this
lfiand; the tyger, wolf, and bear, hold yet fome
poiieffion; as alfo raccoons, foxes, hares, fquirrels
rats, and mice, but I think no moles. There is
a. large ground rat, more than twice the fize of the
common Norway rat. In the night time it throws
out the earth, forming little mounds, or hillocks
opoflums are here in abundance, as alfo pole-
fitS} wdd_cats> rattle-fnakes, glafs-fnake, coaph-
whip fnake, and a variety of other ferpents,

B 4

Here

8

TRAVELS IN

Plerc are alfo a great variety of birds, through-,
out the feafons, inhabiting both fea and land. bird
I {ball name the eagle, ol which there are three
fpecies. The great grey eagle is the larged, of
great drength and high flight ; he chiefly preys on
fawns and other young quadrupeds.

The bald eagle is likewife a large, drong, and
very aflive bird, but an execrable tyrant: he fup-
ports his affumed dignity and grandeur by rapine
and violence, extorting unreafonable tribute and
fubfidy from all the feathered nations.

The lad of this race I fhall mention is the falco
pifcatorius, or filhing-hawk this is a large bird,
of high and rapid flight; h:s wings are very long
and pointed, and he fpreads a vaft fail, in propor-
tion to the volume of his body This pnncdyd bard
fubfifts entirely on filb which he takes llM >
fcorning to live and grow fat on the dear earned
labours of another ; he alfo contributes lrberaUy to
the fupport of the bald eagle.

Water-fowl, and the various fpecies of land-
birds, alfo abound, mod of which are mentioned
bv Catefoy, in his Hid. of Carolina, particularly his
painted finch (Emberiza Ceris Linn.) exceeded y
none of the feathered tribes, either in variety and
fplendour of drefs, or melody of long.

Catelby’s ground doves are alfo here in abun-
dance- they are remarkably beautiful, about the
fiz" of a fparrow, and their loft and plaintive cooing

perfectly enchanting.

Bow chufte the dove ! ■■ never known Inviolate the conjugal

she tes'S,t feats of envy and ftrife, and feeks the retired path,
of peace. The

NORTH AMERICA. 9

The fight of this delightful and productive
ifhnd, placed in front of the rifing city of Sun-
buiy, quickly induced me to explore it; which I
Apprehended, from former vifits to this coaft,
would exhibit a comprehenfive epitome of the
hiftory of all the fea- coaft i Hands of Carolina and
Georgia, as likewife in general of the coaft of the
main. And though 1 confide;-ed this excurfion along
the coaft of Georgia and northern border of Flo-
rida, a deviation from the high road of my intended
travels, yet I performed it in order to employ to
the moft advantage the time on my hands, before
the treaty of Augufta came on, where I was to at-
tend, about May or June, by defire of the Supers
intendant, J. Stewart, efq. who, when I was in
Charlefton, propofed, in order to facilitate my tra-
vels in the Indian territories, that, if I would be
prefent at the Congrefs, he would introduce my
bufinefs to the chiefs of the Cherokees, Creeks, and
other nations, and recommend me to their friend-
fhip and protection ; which promife he fully per-
formed, and it proved of great fervice to me.

Obedient to the admonitions of my attendant
fpirit, curiofity, as well as to gratify the expecta-
tions of my worthy patron, I again fat off on my
fouthern excurfion, and left Sunbury, in company
with feveral of its polite inhabitants, who were go-
ing to Medway meeting, a very large and well con-
ftructed place of worfhip, in St. John’s parifh,
where I aflbciated with them in religious exercife,
and heard a very excellent fermon, delivered by
their pious and truly venerable paftor, the Rev.

- Ofgood. This refpectable congregation is

independent, , and confift chiefly of families, and

profelytes

10

TRAVELS IN

profelytes to a flock, which this pious man led
about forty years ago, from South Carolina, and
fettled in this fruitful diftridt. It is about nine
miles from Sunbury to Medway meeiing-houfe,
which Hands on the high road oppofite the Sun-
bury road. As foon as the congregation broke up,

I re-afiumed my travels, proceeding down the high
road towards Fort Barrington, on the Alatamaha,
palling through a level country, well watered by
large ftreams, brandies of Medway and Newport
rivers, courflng from extenfive fwamps and marlhes,
their fources : thefe fwamps are daily clearing
and improving into large fruitful rice plantations,
aggrandizing the well inhabited and rich diftridt of
St. John’s parilh. The road is ftraight, fpacious*
and kept in excellent repair by the induftrious in-
habitants; and is generally bordered on each fide
with a light grove, confifting of the following trees
and lhrubs; Myrica Cerifera, Calycanthus, Halefia
tetraptera, Itea ftewartia, Andromeda nitida, Cy-
rella racemiflora, entwined with bands and gar-
lands of Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, Lo-
nicera fempervirens and Glycene frutefeens; diefe
were overlhadowed by tall and fpreading trees, as
the Magnolia grandiflora. Liquid ambar, Lirio-
dendron, Catalpa, Quercus fempervirens, Quercus
dentata, I’hillos; and on the verges of the
canals, where the road was caufwayed, flood
the Cupreflfus difticha, Gordonia Lacianthus, and
Magnolia glauca, all planted by nature, and left
Handing, by the virtuous inhabitants, to fliade the
road, and perfume the fultry air. The exten-
flve plantations of rice and corn, now in early ver-
dure, decorated here and diere with groves of flo-
riferous and fragrant trees and fhrubs, under the

cover

NORTH AMERICA. I 1

cover and protection of pyramidal laurels and
plumed palms, which now and then break through
upon the fight from both fides of the way as we pafs
along j the eye at intervals Healing a view at the
humble, but elegant and neat habitation, of the
happy proprietor, amidft arbours and groves, all
day, and moon-light nights, filled with the melody
of the cheerful mockbird, warbling nonpareil, and
plaintive turtle-dove, altogether prefent a view of
magnificence and joy, inexpreflibly charming and
animating.

In the evening I arrived at the feat of the Hon.
B. Andrews, efq. who received and entertained me
in every refpect, as a worthy gentleman could a
Hranger, that is, with hearty welcome, plain but
plentiful board, free converfation and liberality of
fentiment. I fpent the evening very agreeably, and
the day following (for I was not permitted to de-
part fooner) : I viewed with pleafure this gentleman’s
exemplary improvements in agriculture; particu-
larly in the growth of rice, and in his machines for
flielling that valuable grain, which Hands in the
water almoH from the time it is fown, until within
a few days before it is reaped, when dtey draw off
the water by fluices, which ripens it all at once, and
when the heads or panicles are dry ripe, it is reap-
ed and left Handing in the field, in fmall ricks, un-
til the Hraw is quite dry, when it is hauled, and
Hacked in the barn yard. The machines for clean-
ing the rice are worked by the force of water.
They Hand on the great refervoir which contains
the waters that flood the rice fields below.

T owards the evening we made a little party at
fifhing. We chofe a fhaded retreat, in a beautiful
grove of magnolias, myrtles, and fweet bay trees,

which

12

TRAVELS IN

■which were left {landing on the bank of a fine
creek, that, from this place, took a flow ferpen-
tine courfe through the plantation. We prefently
took fome fifh, one kind of which is very beau-
tiful; they call it the red-belly. It is as large as a
man’s hand, nearly oval and thin, being comprefled
on each fide ; the tail is beautifully formed ; the
top of the head and back of an olive green, be-
fprinkled with ruflet fpecks; the fides of a fea
green, inclining to azure, infenfibly blended with
the olive above, and beneath lightens to a filvery
white, or pearl colour, elegantly powdered with
{pecks of the fineft green, ruflet and gold; the
belly is of a bright fcarlet red, or vermilion, dart-
ing up rays or fiery ilreaks into the pearl on each
fide; the ultimate angle of the branchioflega ex-
tends backwards with a long fpatula, ending with
a round or oval particoloured fpot, reprefenting
the eye in the long feathers of a peacock’s crain,
verged round with a thin flame-coloured mem-
brane, and appears like a brilliant ruby fixed on
the fide of the fifh ; the eyes are large, encircled
with a fiery iris ; they are a voracious fifh, and are
cafily caught with a fuitable bait.

The next morning I took leave of this worthy
family, and fat off" for the fettlements on the Ala-
tamaha, ftill purfuing the high road for Fort Bar-
rington, till towards noon, when I turned off to
the left, following the road to Darian, a fettlement
on the river twenty miles lower down, and near
the coaft. The fore part of this day’s journey was
pleafant, the plantations frequent, and the roads in
tolerable good repair ; but the country being now
lefs cultivated, the roads became bad. I purfued my
journey almoft continually through fwamps and
Creeks, waters of Newport and Sapello, till night,

when

NORTH AMERICA.

u

■when I loft my way ; but coming up to a fence, I
law a glimmering light, which conducted me to a
houfe, where I ftayed all night, and met with very
civil entertainment. Early next morning I fat off
again, in company with the overfeer of the farm,
who piloted me through a large and difficult fwamp,
when we parted ; he in chafe of deer, and I to-
wards Darian. I rode feveral miles through a
high foreft of pines, thinly growing on a level plain,
which admitted an ample view, and a free circula-
tion of air, to another fwamp ; and crofting a con-
ftderable branch of Sapello river, 1 then came to a
fmall plantation by the fide of another fwamp : the
people were remarkably civil and'hofpitable. The
man’s name was IVTIntofh, a family of the firft co-
lony eftablifhed in Georgia, under the conduit of
general Oglethorpe. Was there ever fuch a fcene
of primitive fimplicity, as was here exhibited, fmce
the days of the good king Tammany ! The vener-
able grey headed Caledonian fmilingly meets me
coming up to his houfe. « Welcome, ftranger;
come in, and reft; the air is now very fultry ; it
is a very hot day.” I was there treated with fome
excellent venifon, and here found friendly and fecure
ftielter from a tremendous thunder ftorm, which
came up from the N. W. and foon after my arri-
val began to difcharge its fury all around. Step-
ping to the door to obferve the progrefs and di-
reftion of the tempeft, the fulgour And rapidity of
the ftreams of lightning, pafting from cloud to cloud
and from the clouds to the earth, exhibited a verv
awful fcene; when inftantly the lightning as it
were, opening a fiery chafm in the black cloud
darted with inconceivable rapidity on the trunk of a
large pine tree, that ftood thirty or forty yards from
i me, and fet it in a blaze. The flame inftantly

8 afcended

14

TRAVELS IN

*

afcended upwards of ten or twelve feet, an. conti
nued flaming about fifteen minutes, when it ^ gra-
dually extin guiflied by the deluges of rain that fell

upon it.

I i'a where a remarkably ’arge turkey of the na-
tive wild breed : his head was above three feet
from the ground when he flood ereft s he was a
ftately beautiful bird, of a very dark duflty brown
colour, the tips of the feathers of his neck, breaft,
back, and lhoulders, edged with a copper colour
which in a certain expofure looked like :b« ^red
gold, and he feemed not mfenfible of the Iplendid
appearance he made. He was reared from an eg,
found in the foreft, and hatched by a hen ot the
common domeftic fowl.

Our turkey of America is a very different fpe-
cies from the meleagris of Alia and EuJ°P'j ^
are nearly thrice their flze and weight. I have leen
feveral that have weighed between twenty and
thirty pounds, and feme have been killed that
weighed near forty. They are taller, and have a
much longer neck proportionally, and h ,-w .e
longer legs, and Hand more erect i drey are alfo
very different in colour. Ours are all, male and
female, of a dark brown colour, not having a black
feather on them; but the male exceedingly fpkn-
did, with changeable colours. In other particulars

they differ not.

The tempeft being over, I waited till the floods
of rain had run off the ground, then took leave of
mv friends, and departed. The air was now coo
and falubrious, and riding feven or eight miles,
through a pine foreft, I came to Sapello bridge,
to Which the fait tide flows. I here topped, ^at

NORTH AMERIjCA. 1 5

I

Mr. Bailey's, to deliver a letter from the governor.
This gentleman received me very civilly, inviting
, me to flay with him ; but upon my urging the ne-
ceffity of my accelerating my journey, he permitted
me to proceed to Mr. L. McIntofh’s, near the river,
to whole friendfhip I was recommended by Mr. B.
Andrews.

Perhaps, to a grateful mind, there is no intel-
lectual enjoyment, which regards human concerns,
of a more excellent nature, than the remembrance
of real acts of friendlhip. The heart expands at
the pleafing recollection. When I came up to his
door, the friendly man, fmiling, and with a grace
and dignity peculiar to himfelf, took me by the
hand, and accofted me thus: c< Friend Bartram,
tc come under my roof, and I defire you to make my
tc houfe your home, as long as convenient to your-
cc felf ; remember, from this moment, that you are
<c a part of my family, and, on my part, I fhall en-
<c deavour to make it agreeable,” which was veri-
fied during my continuance in, and about, the
fouthern territories of Georgia and Florida; for I
found here fincerity in union with all the virtues, un-
der the influence of religion. I fhall yet mention
a remarkable inftance of Mr. McIntofh’s friendfhip
and refpedt for me ; which was, recommending his
cldefh fon, Mr. John M'Intofh, as a companion in
my travels. He was a fenfible virtuous youth, and
a very agreeable companion through a long and toil-
fome journey of near a thoufand miles.

Having been greatly refrefhed, by continuing a
few days with this kind and agreeable family, I pre-
pared to profecute my journey foutherly.

CHAP.

TRAVELS IN

1 6

CHAP. III.

I sat off early in the morning for the Indian
•trading-houfe, in the river St. Mary, and took the
road up the N. E. fide of the Alatamaha to Fort-
Barrington. I pafled through a well inhabited dif-
tridl, moftly l ice plantations, on the waters of Cat-
head creek, a branch of the Alatamaha. On draw-
ing near the fort, I was greatly delighted at the
appearance of two new beautiful Ihrubs, in all their
blooming graces. One of them appeared to be a
lpecies of Gordonia*, but the flowers are larger,
and more fragrant than thofe of the Gordonia Laf-
canthus, and are feflile ; the feed veffel is alfo very
different. The other was equally diftinguifhed for
beauty and Angularity; it grows twelve or fifteen
feet high, the branches afcendant and oppofite, and
terminate with large panicles of pale blue tubular
flowers, fpecked on the infide with crimfon ; but,
what is Angular, thefe panicles are ornamented
with a number of ovate large bradteas, as white, and
like fine paper, their tops and verges ftained with
a rofe red, which, at a little diftance, has the ap-
pearance of clufters of rofes, at the extremities of
the limbs : the flowers are of the Cl. Pentandria
monogynia; the. leaves are nearly ovate, pointed
and petioled, Handing oppofite to one another on -
the branches.

After fifteen miles riding, I arrived at the ferry,
which is near the fite of the fort. Here is a confi-
derable height and bluff on the river, and evident

* Frank.lini* Alatahama.

veftiges

NORTH AMERICA.

17

vefHges of an ancient Indian town may be feen,
fuch as old extenfive fields, and conical mounds,
or artificial heaps of earth. I here crofted the ri-
ver, which is about five hundred yards over, in a
good large boat, rowed by a Creek Indian, who
was married to a white woman ; he feemed an ac-
tive, civil, and fenfible man. I faw large, tall trees
of the Nyfta coccinea, fi. Ogeeche, growing on the
banks of the river. They grow in the water, near
the fhore. There is no tree that exhibits a more
defirable appearance than this, in the autumn,
When the fruit is ripe, and the tree divefted of its
leaves ; for then they look as red as fcarlet, with
their fruit, which is of that colour alfo. It is of
the ihape, but larger than the olive, containing an
agreeable acid juice. The leaves are oblong lan-
ceolate and entire, fomewhat hoary underneath ;
their upper furface of a full green, and fhining ;
the petioles fhort, pedunculis multifloris. The moft
northern fettlement of this tree, yet known, is on
Great Ogeeche, where they are called Ogeeche
limes, from their acid fruit being about the fize of
limes, and their being fometimes ufed in their
Head. .

Being fafely landed on the oppofite bank, I
mounted my horfe, and followed the high road to
the ferry on St. Ille, about fixty miles fouth of the
Alatamaha, paffmg through an uninhabited wilder-
nefs. The Hidden tranfition from rich cultivated
fettlements, to high pine forefts, dark and graffy
favannas, forms in my opinion no difagreeable con-
trails ; and the new objedts of oblervation in the
works of nature foon reconcile the furprifed ima-
gination to the change. As foon as I had loft fight
of the river, afcending fome fand-hills, I obferved

C a new

i8

TRAVELS IN

a new and mod beautiful fpecies of Annona, hav-
ing clufters of large white fragrant flowers ; and a
diminutive but elegant Kalmia. The items are
very finall, feeble, and for the moil part undivided,
furniilied with little ovate pointed leaves, and ter-
minate with a Ample racemi, or fpike of flowers,
falver formed, and of a deep rofe red. The whole
plant is ciiiated. It grows in abundance all over
the moiil favannas, but more efpecially near ponds
and bay-fwamps. In iimilar Atuations, and com-
monly a near neighbour to this new Kalmia, is feen
a very curious fpecies of Annona. It is very dwarf,
the items feldom extending from the e?rth more
than a foot or eighteen inches, and are weak and
almofc decumbent. The leaves are long, extremely
narrow, almoft lineal. However, fmall as they are,
they retain the figure common to the fpecies, that
is, lanceolate, broadeft at the upper end, and atte-
nuating down to the petiole, which is very iliort ;
their leaves Hand alternately, nearly eredt, forming
two feries, or wings, on the arcuated ilems. The
flowers, both in fize and colour, referable thofe of
the Antrilobe, and are Tingle from the axillae of
the leaves on incurved pedunculi, nodding down-
wards. I never faw the fruit. The dens, or ca-
verns, dug in the fand-hills, by the great land-tor-
toife, called here Gopher *, prefent a very Angular
appearance : thefe vail caves are their cailles and
diurnal retreats, from whence they iflue forth in
the night, in fearch of prey. The little mounds,
or hillocks of frefli earth, thrown up in great num-
bers in the night, have alio a curious appearance.

In the evening I arrived at a cow-pen, where

* Teftudo Polyphemus.

5

there

c/n/wm/

W'

'ne&j

n.2.

NORTH AMERICA.

19

there was a habitation, and the people received me
very civilly. I ftaid here all night, and had for
fupper plenty of milk, butter, and very good cheefe
of their own make, which is a novelty in the mari-
time parts of Carolina and Georgia ; the inhabitants
being chiefly fupplied with it from Europe and the
northern ftates. The next day’s progrefs, in ge-
neral, prefented fcenes fimilar to the preceding,
though the laud is lower, more level and humid,
and the produce more varied : high open forefts of
ftately pines, flowery plains, and extenfive green
favannas, chequered with the incarnate Chironia
pulcherrima, and Afclepias fragrans, perfumed the
air whilft they pleafed the eye. I met with feme
troublefome cane fwamps, faw herds of horned
cattle, horfes and deer, and took notice of a pro-
cumbent fpecies of Hibifcus, the leaves palmated,
the flowers large and expanded, pale yellow and
white, having a deep crimfon eye ; the whole plant,
except the corolla, armed with {tiff hair. I alfo
faw a beautiful fpecies of Lupin, having pale
green villous Ungulate * leaves ; the flowers are
difpofed in long ereft fpikes ; fome plants produce
flowers of the fineft celeftial blue, others incarnate,
and fome milk white, and though they all three
feem to be varieties of one fpecies, yet they afloci-
ate in feparate communities, fometimes approach-
ing near each other’s border, or in fight at a dif-
tance. Their diftri&s are fltuated on dry fandy
heights, in open pine forefts, which are naturally
thin of undergrowth, and appear to great advan-
tage ; generally, where they are found, they occu-
py many acres of furface. The vegetative mould
is compofed of fine white fand, mixed, and colour-
ed, with diflolved and calcined vegetable fubftances ;

* Lupinus breunis, foliis mtegerimis oblongis villofis.

C 2

but

20 TRAVELS IN

but this flratum is not very deep, and covers one of
a tenacious cinereous coloured clay, as we may ob-
ferve by the earth adhering to the roots of trees,
torn up by ftorms, &c. and by the little chimnies,
or air holes of cray-fifh, which perforate the favan-
nas. T urkeys, quails, and l'mall birds, are here to
be feen ; but birds are not numerous in defert fo-
i efts ; they draw near to the habitations of men, as
I have conftantly obferved in all my travels.

I arrived at St. I lie’s in the evening, where I
lodged ; and next morning, having eroded over in a
ferry boat, fat forward for St. Mary’s. The filia-
tion of the territory, its foil and productions, be-
tween thefe two laft rivers, are nearly fimilar to
thofe which I had palled over, except that the fa-
\ annas are more frequent and extenfive.

It may be proper to obferve, that I had now
palfed the utmolc frontier of the white fettlements
on that border. It was drawing on towards the
clofe of day, the Ikies ferene and calm, the air tem-
perately cool, and gentle zephyrs breathing through
the fragrant pines; the prolpeCt around enchant-
ingly varied and beautiful ; endlefs green favannas,
chequered with coppices of fragrant Ihrubs, filled
the air with the richeft perfume. The gaily at-
tired plants which enamelled the green had begun
to imbibe the pearly dew of evening ; nature feem-
ed filent, and nothing appeared to ruffle the happy
moments of evening contemplation ; when, on a
Hidden, an Indian appeared croffing the path, at a
confiderable diftance before me. On perceiving
that he was armed with a rifle, the firft fight of him
ftartled me, and I endeavoured to elude his fight,
by flopping my pace, and keeping large trees be-
tween us; but he efpied me, and turning fliort

about.

NORTH AMERICA.

2 I

about, fat fpurs to his horfe, and came up on full
gallop. I never before this was afraid at the fight
of an Indian, but at this time, I muft own that my
fpirits were very much agitated : I faw at once,
that being unarmed, I was in his power; and hav-
ing now but a few moments to prepare, I refigned
myfelf entirely to the will of the Almighty, trad-
ing to his mercies for my prefervation : my mind
then became tranquil, and I refolvcd to meet the
dreaded foe with refolution and chearful confi-
dence. The intrepid Siminole Hopped fuddenly,
three or four yards before me, and filently viewed
me, his countenance angry and fierce, fhifting his
rifle from fhoulder to fhoulder, and looking about
inftantly on all fides. I advanced towards him, and
with an air of confidence offered h,im my hand,
hailing him, brother ; at this he haftily jerked
back his arm, with a look of malice, rage, and dif-
dain, feeming every way difcontented ; when again
looking at me more attentively, he inftantly fpurred
up to me, and with dignity in his look and action,
gave me his hand. Poffibly the filent language of
his foul, during the moment of fufpenfe (for I be-
lieve his defign was to kill me when he firft came
up) was after this manner : “ White man, thou
“ art my enemy, and thou and thy brethren may
“ have killed mine ; yet it may not be fo, and even
tf were that the cafe, thou art now alone, and in
tc my power. Live; the Great Spirit forbids me
tc to touch thy life ; go to thy brethren, tell them
fC thou faweft an Indian in the forefts, who knew
“ how to be humane and compaflionate.” In fine,
we fhook hands, and parted in a friendly manner,
in the midft of a dreary wildernefs ; and he inform-
ed me of the courfe and diftance to the trading-
boufe, where I found he had been extremely ill-
treated the day before.

C J

I now

22

TRAVELS IN

I now fat forward again, and after eight or ten
miles riding, arrived at the banks of St. Mary’s,
oppofite the ftores, and got fafe over before dark.
T. he river is here about one hundred yards acrofs,
has ten feet water, and, following its courfe, about
fixty miles to the fea, though but about twenty
miles by land. The trading company here received
and treated me with great civility. On relating
my adventures on the road, particularly the laft
with the Indian, the chief replied, with a counte-
nance that at once befpoke furprife and plealure,
“ My friend, confider yourfelf a fortunate man:
“ that fellow,” faid he, “ is one of the greateft vil-
“ lains on earth, a noted murderer, and outlawed
“ by his countrymen. Laft evening he w?as here,
“ we took his gun from him, broke it in pieces,
tc and gave him a fevere drubbing : he, however,
<c made his efcape, carrying off a new rifle gun,
<f with which, he faid, going off, he would kill
<c the firft white man he met.”

On ferioufly contemplating the behaviour of this
Indian towards me, fo foon after his ill treatment,
the folio wing train of fentiments infenfibly crowded
in upon my mind.

Can it be denied, but that the moral principle,
which direfts the favages to virtuous and praife-
worthy aft ions, is natural or innate ? It is certain
they have not the afiiftance of letters, or thofe
means of education in the fchools of philofophy,
where the virtuous fentiments and aftions of the
moft illuftrious charafters are recorded, and care-
fully laid before the youth of civilized nations :
therefore this moral principle muft be innate, or
they muft be under the immediate influence and
guidance of a more divine and powerful preceptor.

NORTH AMERICA. 2 J

who, on thefe occafions, inftantly infpires them,
and as with a ray of divine light, points out to them
at once the dignity, propriety, and beauty of vir-
tue.

The land on, and adjacent to, this river, not-
withftanding its arenaceous furface, appears natu-
rally fertile. The peach trees are large, healthy,
and fruitful ; and Indian corn, rice, cotton, and
indigo, thrive exceedingly. This fandy furface,
one would fuppofe, from its loofe texture, would
poffefs a percolating quality, and fuffer the rain-
waters quickly to drain off; but it is quite the con-
trary, at leaft in thefe low maritime fandy coun-
tries of Carolina and Florida, beneadi the moun-
tains ; for in the fands, even the heights, where the
arenaceous ftratum is perhaps five, eight, and ten
feet above the clay, the earth, even in the longed:
droughts, is moift an inch or two under the furface ;
whereas, in the rich tenacious low lands, at fuch
times, the ground is dry, and, as it were, baked ma-
ny inches, and lometimes fome feet deep, and the
crops, as well as almoft all vegetation, fuffer in
fuch foils and fituations. The reafon of this may
be, that this kind of earth admits more freely of a
tranlpiration of vapours, arifing from inteftine wa-
tery canals to the furface ; and probably thefe va-
pours are impregnated with faline or nitrous prin-
ciples, friendly and nutritive to vegetables; how-
ever, of thefe caufes and fecret operations of nature
I am ignorant, and refume again my proper em-
ployment, that of difcovering and collecting data
for the exercife of more able phyfiologifts.

The favannas about St. Mary’s, at this feafon,
difplay a very charming appearance of flowers and
verdure ; their more elevated borders are varied

C 4 with

TRAVELS IN

24

with beds of violets, lupins, Amaryllis atamafco,
and plants of a new and very beautiful fpecies of
Mimofa fenfitiva, which I think as admirable and
more charming than the celebrated Humble p ant,
equally chafte and fearful of the hafty touch of the
iurprifed admirer. The flower is larger, of a bright
damafk rofe colour, and exceedingly fragrant : the
whole plant is deltitute of prickles, but hairy : it is
procumbent, reclining itfelf upon the green turf,
and from thefe trailing branches proceeds an upright
peduncle, fix or eight inches high, fupporting an
oblong head of flowerets, which altogether, at a
fmall diflance, have the appearance of an exuber-
ant field of clover ; and, what is fingular, and
richly varies the fcene, there are interfperfed
patches of the fame fpecies of plants, having flowers
of the fineft golden yellow, and others fnow white ;
but the incarnate is mcft prevalent. Magnolia
glauca, Jtea Clethra, Chionanthus, Gordonia lafi-
anthus, Ilex anguftifolium, Olea Americana, Ho-
pea tinfforia, &c. are feated in detached groves
or clumps, round about the ponds or little lakes,
at the lower end of the favannas. I obferved,
growing on the banks of this fequeflered river, the
following trees and lhrubs: Quercus fempervirens,
aquatica, Phillos, Q^dentata, Nyfla aquati-
ca, N.fylvatica, N. Ogeeche, fi. coccinea, CuprefT-
us diflicha, Fraxinus aquatica, Rhamnus frangula,
Prunus laurocerafa, Cyrilla racemiflora, Myrica
cerifera, Andromeda ferruginia, Andr. nitida, and
the great evergreen Andromeda of Florida, called
Pipe-flem W ood, to which I gave the name of An-
dromeda formofiflima, as it far exceeds in beauty
every one of this family.

The river St. Mary has its fource from a vaft
lake, or marfh, called Ouaquaphenogaw, which lies

between

NORTH AMERICA.

25

between Flint and Oakmulge rivers, and occupies
a lpace of near three hundred miles in circuit.
This vaft accumulation of waters, in the wet feafon,
appears as a lake, and contains fome large iflands
or knolls, of rich high land; one of which the pre-
ient generation of the Creeks reprefent to be a mod
blifsful fpot of the earth : they fay it is inhabited
by a peculiar race of Indians, whofe women are in-
comparably beautiful; they alfo tell you that this
terreftrial paradife has been feen by fome of their
enterprifing hunters, when in purfuit of game, who
being loft in inextricable fwamps and bogs, and on
the point of perilhing, were unexpectedly relieved
by a company of beautiful women, whom they call
daughters of the fun, who kindly gave them fuch
provifions as they had with them, which were
chiefly fruit, oranges, dates, &c. and lome com
cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for fafety to
their own country; for that their hufbands were
fierce men, and cruel to ftrangers : they further
fay, that thefe hunters had a view of their fettle-
ments, fituated on the elevated banks of an ifland,
or promontory, in a beautiful lake; but that in
their endeavours to approach it, they were in-
volved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted
land, ftill as they imagined they had juft gained it,
it feemed to fly before them, alternately appearing
and difappearing. They relolved, at length, to
leave the delufive purfuit, and to return; which,
after a number of inexpreffible difficulties, they ef-
fected. When they reported their adventures to
their countrymen, their young warriors were en-
flamed with an irrefiftible defire to invade, and
make a conqueft of, fo charming a country; but
all their attempts hitherto have proved abortive,
never having been able again to find that en-
chanting

26

travels in

chanting fpot, nor even any road or pathway to it;
yet they fay that they frequently meet with certain
figns of its being inhabited, as the building of ca-
noes, footfleps of men, &c. They tell another
ftory concerning the inhabitants of this fequeflered
country, which feems probable enough, which is,
that they are the pofterity of a fugitive remnant of
the ancient Yamafes, who efcaped maffacre after a
bloody and decifive confiifl between them and the
Creek nation (who, it is certain, conquered, and
nearly exterminated, that once powerful people),
and here found an afylum, remote and fecure from
the fury of their proud conquerors. It is, however,
certain that there is a vaft lake, or drowned fwamp,
well known, and often vifited both by white and In-
dian hunters, and on its environs the molt valuable
hunting grounds in Florida, well worth contending
for, by thofe powers whofe territories border upon
it. From this great fource of rivers *, St. Mary
arifes, and meanders through a vaft plain and pine
foreft, near an hundred and fifty miles to the ocean,
with which it communicates, between the points of
Amelia and Talbert iflands; the waters flow deep
and gently down from its fource to the fea.

Having made my obfervations on the vegetable
productions of this part of the country, and ob-
tained fpecimens and feeds of fome cmious trees
and fhrubs (which vrere the pr ncipal objects of this
excurfion) I returned by the fame road to the Ala-
tamaha, and arrived fafe again at the feat of my
good friend, L. McIntofh, Efq. where I tarried a
few days to reft and refrefh myfelf, and to wait for

* Source of rivers. It is faid, that St. 111c, St. Mary, and the beautiful
river Little St. Juan, which difeharges its waters into the bay of Apalachi, at
St. Mark’s, take their rife from this fwamp.

my

NORTFI AMERICA.

my young companion and fellow pilgrim, Mr. John
McIntolh, who, being fond of the enterprife, had
been fo atlive during my abfence, in the neceffary
preparations, that we had nothing to wait for now
but Mrs. McIntofh’s final confent to give up her
fon to the perils and hardfhips of fo long a journey;
which difficult point being fettled, we fet off with
the prayers and benevolent wiihes of my compa-
nion’s worthy parents.

CHAP.

28

TRAVELS IN

C HAP. IV.

Early in the morning, we mounted our horfes,
and in two days arrived in Savanna; here we learned
that the fuperintendant of Indian affairs had left
the capital, and was on his way to Augufta. I re-
mained but one day in Savanna, which was em-
ployed in making up and forwarding the collections
for Charlefton.

t

The day following we fet off for Augufta, which
is on Savanna river, at leaft an hundred and fifty
miles by land from the capital, and about three hun-
dred by water. We followed the courfe of the
river, and arrived there after having had a prof-
perous journey, though a little incommoded by the
heats of the feafon.

As nothing very material occurred on the road,
I fhall proceed tO' give a fummary account of the
obfervations I made concerning the foil, fituation,
and natural productions of the country.

In our progrefs from the fea coaft, we rife gra-
dually, by feveral fteps or afcents, in the following
manner : Firft, from the fea-coalt, fifty miles back,
is a level plain, generally of a loofe fandy foil,
producing fpacious high forefts, of Pinus tieda, P.
lutea, P. fquarrofa, P. echinata, i. Quercus femper-
virens, i. Quercus aquatica, 3. phillos, 4.
tindtoria, 5. Q^dentata, 6. Q^prinos, 7. Q^ alba,
8. Q;_ finuata, 9. Q^ rubra, Liriodendron tuli-

1. Live Oak. 2. Della-leaved Water Oak. 3. Willow-leaved Oak. 4. Great
Black Oak. 5. Narrow leaved WintergTccn Oak. 6. Swamp While Oak.
7. White Oak. £. Spanilh Oak. 9. Red Oak.

pifera.

NORTH AMERICA. ^9

pifera, Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Morus rubra,
Cercis tilia, Populus heterophylla, Platanus occi-
dentalis, Laurus faffafras, Laurus Borbonia, Ho-
pea tinctoria, Fraxinus excelfior, Nyffa, Ulmus,
Juglans exaltata, Halefa, Stewartia. Nearly one
third of this vaft plain is what the inhabitants call
fwamps, which are the fources of numerous fmall
rivers and their branches: thefe they call fait ri-
vers, becaufe the tides flow near to their fources,
and generally carry a good depth and breadth of
water for fmall craft, twenty or thirty miles up-
wards from the fea, when they branch and fpread
abroad like an open hand, interlocking with each
other, and forming a chain of fwamps acrols the
Carolinas and Georgia, feveral hundred miles pa-
rallel with the fea coaft. Thefe fwamps are fed
and replenilhed conftantly by an infinite number of
rivulets and rills, which fpring out of the firft bank
or afeent : their native trees and fhrubs are, befides
moll of thofe already enumerated above, as follow :
Acer rubrum, Nyffa aquatica, Chionanthus, Celtis,
Fagus fylvatica, Sambricus ; and the higher knolls
afford beautiful clumps of Azalea nuda and Azalea
vifeofa, Corypha palma, Corypha pumila, and Mag-
nolia grandiflora; befides, the whole furface of the
ground between the trees and fhrubs appear to be
occupied with canes (Arundo gigantea) entangled
with feftoons of the floriferous Glycine frutelcens,
Bignonia fempervirens, Glycine apios, Smilax, va-
rious fpecies, Bignonia crucigera, Bign. radicans,
Lonicera fempervirens, and a multitude of other
trees, fhrubs, and plants lefs confpicuous ; and, in
very wet places, Cupreffus difticha. The upper
foil of thefe fwamps is a perfeftly black, foapy,
rich earth, or lliff mud, two or three feet deep,
on a foundation or ftratum of calcareous foffl,

which

TRAVELS IN

30

which the inhabitants call white marie ; and this is
the heart or ftrength of thefe fwamps : they never
wear out or become poor, but, on the contrary,
are more fertile by tillage ; for when they turn up
this white marie, the air and winter frofts caufing it
to fall like quicklime, it manures the furface: but
it has one difadvantage, that is, in great droughts,
when they cannot have water fufficient in their re-
fervoirs to lay the furface of the ground under wa-
ter, it binds, and becomes fo tough as to burn
and kill the crops, efpecially the old cleared lands ;
as, while it was frefh and new, the great quantity
of rotten wood, roots, leaves, &c. kept the fur-
face loofe and open. Severe droughts feldom hap-
pen near the fea coaft.

We now rife a bank of confiderable height, which
runs nearly parallel to the coaft, through Carolina
and Georgia: the afcent is gradual by feveral
flights or fteps, for eight or ten miles, the perpen-
dicular height whereof, above the level of the
ocean, may be two or three hundred feet (and thefe
are called the fand-hills), when we find ourfelves on
the entrance of a vaft plain, generally level, which
extends weft fixty or feventy miles, rifing gently as
the former, but more perceptibly. This plain is moft-
ly a foreft of the great long-leaved pine (P. paluftris
Linn.) the earth covered with grafs, interfperfed
with an infinite variety of herbaceous plants, and
embellifhed with extenflve favannas, always green,
fparkling with ponds of water, and ornamented
with clumps of evergreen, and other trees and
fhrubs, as Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia glauca,
Gordonia, Illex aquifolium, Quercus, various fpe-
cies, Laurus Borbonia, Chionanthus, Hopea tindto-
ria, Cyriila, Kalmia anguftifolia, Andromeda, va-
rieties.

NORTH AMERICA. 3 I

rietles, Viburnum, Azalea, Rhus vernix, Prinos,
varieties, Fothergilla, and a new fhrub of great
beauty and Angularity: it grows ereft, feven or
eight feet high; a multitude of eredt items arife
from its root; thefe divide themfelves into afcend-
ant branches, which are garnifhed with abundance
of narrow lanceolate obtufe pointed leaves, of a
light green, fmooth and fhining. Thefe branches,
with their many fubdivifions, terminate in Ample
racemes of pale incarnate flowers, which make a
Ane appearance among the leaves; the Aowers are
fucceeded by deftccated triquetrous pericarpi, each
containing a Angle kernel.

The lowed: Aides of thefe favannas are generally
joined by a great cane fwamp, varied with coppices
and hommocks of the various trees and flirubs al-
ready mentioned. In thefe fwamps feveral rivulets
take their rife, which drain them and the adjoining
favannas, and thence meandering to die rivers
through the forefts, with their banks decorated
with iiirubs and trees. The earth under this level
plain may be defcribed after the following manner :
the upper lurface, or vegetative mould, is a light
fandy loam, generally nine inches or a foot deep,
on a ftratum of cinereous coloured clay, except the
fand-hills, where the loofe fandy furface is much
deeper upon the clay ; flone of any fort, or gravel,
is feldom feen.

The next afcent, or Aight, is of much greater
and more abrupt elevation, and continues riling by
broken ridges and narrow levels, or vales, for ten
or nfteen miles, when we reft again on another
extenfive nearly level plain of pine forefts, mixed
with various other foreft trees, which continues
weft forty or fifty miles farther, and exhibits much

the

TRAVELS IN

3*

the fame appearance with the great foreft laft men-
tioned; its vegetable productions nearly the fame,
excepting that the broken ridges by which we af-
cend to the plain are of a better foil ; the vegeta-
tive mould is mixed with particles of clay and fmall
gravel, and the foil of a dufky brown colour, lying
on a ftratum of reddifh brown tough clay. The
trees and Ihrilbs are, Pinus tneda, great black Oak,
Quercus tincloria, rubra, Laurus, Salfafras, Mag-
nolia grandiflora, Cornus Florida, Cercis, Halefia,
Juglans acuminata, Juglans exaltata, Andromeda
arborea ; and, by the fides of rivulets (which wind
about and between thefe hills and fwamps, in the
vales) Styrax latifolia, Ptelea trifoliata, Stewartia,
Calycant'nus, Chionanthus, Magnolia tripetala, A-
zalea, and others.

Thus have I endeavoured to give the reader a
Ihort and natural defcription of the vaft plain lying
between the region of Augufta and the fea coaft;
for from Augufta the mountainous country begins
(when compared to the level fandy plain already
palTed), although it is at leaft an hundred and fifty
miles weft, thence to the Cherokee or Apalachean
mountains; and this fpace may with propriety be
called the hilly country, every where fertile and de-
lightful, continually replenilhed by innumerable ri-
vulets, either courfing about the fragrant hills, or
fpringing from the rocky precipices, and forming
many cafcades; the coolnefs and purity of which
waters invigorate the air of this otherwife hot and
fultry climate.

The village of Augufta is fituated on a rich and •
fertile plain, on the Savanna river; the buildings
are near its banks, and extend nearly two miles up
to the cataradts, or falls, which are formed by the

firft

North America* 33

firft chain of rocky hills, through which this fa-
mous river forces itfelf, as if impatient to repoie
on the extenfive plain before it invades the ocean.
When the river is low, which is during the fummei
months, the catara&s are four or five feet in height
acrofs the river, and the waters continue rapid and
broken, rufhing over rocks five miles higher up.
this river is near five hundred yards broad at
Augufta.

A few days after our arrival at Augufta, the
chiefs and warriors of the Creeks and Cherokees
being arrived, the Congrefs and the bufinefs of the
treaty came on, and the negotiations continued un-
determined many days; the merchants of Georgia
demanding at leaft two millions of acres of land
from the Indians, as a diicharge of their debts,
due, and of long ftanding: the Creeks, on the
other hand, being a powerful and proud fpirited
people, their young warriors were unwilling to fub-
mit to fo large a demand, and their conduct evi-
dently betrayed a difpofition to difpute the ground
by force of arms, and they could not at firft be
brought to liften to reafon and amicable terms;
however, at length, the cool and deliberate coun-
fels of the ancient venerable chiefs, enforced by
liberal prefents of fuitable goods, were too power-
ful inducements for them any longer to re-
fill, and finally prevailed. The treaty conclud-
ed in unanimity, peace, and good order ; and
the honourable fuperintendant, not forgetting his
promife to me, at the conclufion, mentioned my
bufinefs, and recommended me to the protedlion of
the Indian chiefs and warriors. The prefents being
diflributed amongft the Indians, they departed, re-
turning home to their towns. A company of fur-

D veyors

I

34 TRAVELS IN

veyors were appointed by the governor and coun-
cil, to afeertain the boundaries of the new pur-
chafe j they were to be attended by chiefs of the1
Indians, felected and delegated by their country-
men, to affift, and be witnefies that the articles of
the treaty were fulfilled, as agreed to by both par-
ties in Congrefs.

Col. Barnet, who was chofen to conduct this
bufinefs on the part of the Georgians, a gendeman
every way qualified for that important truft, in a
very friendly and obliging manner, gave me an in-
vitation to accompany him on this tour.

It was now about the middle of the month of
May; vegetation, in perfection, appeared with all
her attractive charms, breathing fragrance every
where; the atmofphere was now animated with the
efficient principle of vegetative life ; die arbuftive
hills', gay lawns, and green meadows, which on
every fide inveft die villa of Augufta, had already
received my frequent vifits ; and although here
much delighted with the new beauties in the vege-
table kingdom, and many eminent ones have dieir
iequeftered refidence near this place, yet, as I was
never long latisfied with prelent pofleffion, however
endowed with every poffible charm to attract the
fight, of intrinfic value to engage and fix the
elleem, I was reftlefs to be fearching for more,
my curiofity being infatiable.

Thus it is with regard to our affections and at-
tachments, in the more important and Interefting
concerns of human life.

Upon the rich rocky hills at the cataracts of Au-
gufta, I firft obferved the perfumed rhododendron

ferrugineum.

NORTH AMERICA. 35

ferrumneum, white-robed philadelphus inodorus,
and cerulean malva ; but nothing in vegetable na-
ture was more pleafing than the odoriferous pancra-
tium fluitans, which almoft alone poffeffes the little
rocky iflets which juft appear above the water.

The preparatory bufinefs of the furveyors being
now accomplilhed, Mr. J. M'lntolh, yet anxious
for travelling, and defiroUs to accompany me on this
tour, joined with me the caravan, confifting of fur-
veyors, aftronomers, artifans, chain-carriers, mark-
ers, guides, and hunters, befides a very refpe&able
number of gentlemen, who joined us, in order to
fpeculate in the lands, together with ten or twelve
Indians, altogether to the number of eighty or
ninety men, all or moll of us well mounted on
horfeback, befides twenty or thirty pack-horfes,
loaded with provifions, tents, and camp equipage.

The fummer feafon now rapidly advancing, the
air at mid-day, about this region, was infufferably
hot and fultry. We fat off from Augufta, early in
the morning, for the Great Buffalo Lick, on the
Great Ridge, which feparates the waters of the Sa-
vanna and Alatamaha, about eighty miles diftant
from Augufta. At this Lick the furveyors Were to
feparate themfelves, and form three companies,
to proceed on different routes. On the evening of
the fecond day’s journey, we arrived at a fmall vil-
lage on Little River, a branch of the Savanna : this
village, called Wrightlborough, was founded by
Jof. Mattock, efq., of the fe£t called quakers. This
public fpirited man having obtained for himfelf
and his followers a diftrift, comprehending up-
wards of forty thoufand acres of land, gave the new
town this name, in honour of fir James Wright,
then governor of Georgia, who greatly promoted

D 2 the

TRAVELS IN

36

the eftablifhment of the fettlement. Mr. Mattock,
who is now about feventy years of age, healthy and
adt'ive, and prefides as chief magiftrate of the fet-
tlement, received us with great hofpitality. The
diilance from Augufta to this place is about thirty
miles ; the face of the country is chiefly a plain of
high forefts, favannas, and cane fwamps, until we
approach Little River, when the landscape varies,
prefenting to view high hills and rich vales. The
foil is a deep, rich, dark mould, on a deep ftratum
of reddilh brown tehacious clay, and that on a foun-
dation of rocks which often break through both
ftrata, lifting their backs above the furface. The
foreft trees are chiefly of the deciduous order, as,
quercus tin&oria, q. laciniata, q. alba, q. rubra,
q. prinus, with many other fpecies; celtis, fagus
fylvatica, and, on the rocky hills, fagus caftanea,
fag. pumila, quercus caftanea; in the rich vales,
juglans nigra, jug. cinerea, gleditfia triacanthos,
magnolia acuminata, liriodendron, platanus, fraxi-
nus excelfior, cercea, juglans exaltata, carpinus,
morus rubra, calycanthus, halefia, aefculus pavia,
aefc. arborea.

Leaving the pleafant town of Wrightfborough
we continued eight or nine miles through a fertile
plain and high foreft, to the north branch of Little
River, being the largeft of the two, crofting which,
we entered an extenfive fertile plain, bordering on
the river, and fhaded by trees of vaft growth, -which
at once fpoke its fertility. Continuing fome time
through thefe lhady groves, the icene opens, and
difclofes to view the moft magnificent foreft I had
ever feen. We rofe gradually a Hoping bank of
twenty or thirty feet elevation, and immediately
entered this fublime foreft. Tire ground is perfectly

a level

NORTH AMERICA.

37

a -level green plain, thinly planted by nature with
the moft ftately foreft trees, fuch as the gigantic
black * oak (q. tinttoria), liriodendron, juglans
nigra, platanus, juglans exaltata, fagus fylvatica,
ulmus fylvatica, liquidambar ftyraciflua, whofe
mighty trunks, feemingly of an equal height, ap-
peared like fuperb columns. To keep within the
bounds of truth and reality, in defcribing the mag-
nitude and grandeur of thefe trees, would, I fear,
fail of credibility ; yet, I think I can afiert, that
many of the black oaks meafured eight, nine, ten,
and eleven feet diameter five feet above the ground,
as we meafured feveral that were above thirty feet
girt, and from hence they afcend perfeftly ftraight,
with a gradual taper, forty or fifty feet to the
limbs; but, below five or fix feet, thefe trunks
would meafure a third more in circumference, on
account of the projecting jambs, or fupports, which
are more or lefs, according to the number of hori-
zontal roots that they arife from; the tulip tree,
liquidambar, and beech, were equally ftately.

Not far diflant from the terrace, or eminence,
overlooking the low grounds of the river, many very
magnificent monuments of the power and induftry of
the ancient inhabitants of thefe lands are vifible. I
obferved a ftupendous conical pyramid, or artificial
mount of earth, vaft tetragon terraces, and a large
funken area, of a cubical form, encompafled with
banks of earth; and certain traces of a larger Indian
town, the work of a powerful nation, whofe period .
of grandeur perhaps long preceded the difcovery of,
this continent,

•Gigantic black oak. Qucrc. tindlona ; the bark of this fpccies of oak is
found to afford a valuable ycllo-.v dye. This tree is known by the name of'
black oak in Pennsylvania, Nev.-Jerfey, New- York, and New- -England.

£> 3 After

33

travels in

^.ftcr about feven miles progrefs through this
foreft of gigantic black oaks, we enter on terri-
tories which exhibit more varied fcenes : the land
rifes almoft infenfibly by gende afcents, exhibiting
defart plains, high forefts, gravelly and ftony
ridges, ever in fight of rapid rivulets ; the foil, as
already defcribed. We then pafled oyer large rich
favannas, or natural meadows, wide fpreading cane
fwamps, and frequently old Indian fettkments,
now deferred and overgrown with forefts. Thefe
are always on or near the banks of rivers, or great
fwamps, the artificial mounts and terraces elevat-
ing them above the furrounding groves. I ob-.
ferved, in the ancient cultivated fields, i. diofpy-
ros, a, gleditfia triacanthos, 3. prunus chicafaw,
4. callicarpa, 5. morus rubra, 6. juglans exaltata,
7.juglans nigra, which inform us, that thefe trees
were cultivated by the ancients, on account of their
fruit, as being wholcfome and nourifiiing food.
Though thefe are natives of the foreft*, yet they thrive
better, and are more fruitful, in cultivated planta-
tions, and the fruit is in great eftimation with the
prefent generation of Indians, particularly juglans
exaltata, commonly called Ihell-barked hiccory.
The Creeks ftore up the laft in their towns. I have
feen above an hundred bufhels of thefe nuts belong-
ing to one family. They pound them to pieces.,
and then caft them into boiling water, which, after
patting through fine ftrainers, preferves the moft
oily part of the liquid: this they call by a name
which fignjfies hiccory milk j It is as fweet and rich
as frefh cream, and is an ingredient in moft of their
cookery, efpecially homony and corn cakes.

’ The Chicafaw . plumb I think mud be excepted, for though certainly a
native of America, yet I never faw it wild in the forefts, but always in old
defected Indian plantations : T fuppofc it to have been hrought from the S. W.
beyond the Miflifippi, by the Chicafaws.

After

NORTH AMERICA.

29

After four days moderate and pleafant travel-
ling, we arrived in the evening at the Buffalo Lick.
This extraordinary place occupies feveral acres of
ground, at the foot of the S. E. promontory of the
Great Ridge, which, as before obferved, divides
the rivers Savanna and Alatamaha. A large cane
fwamp and meadows, forming an immenfe plain,
lie S. E. from it; in this fwamp I believe the head
branches of the great Ogeeche river take their rife.
The place called the Lick contains three or four
acres, is nearly level, and lies between the head of
the cane fwamp and the afcent of the Ridge. The
earth, from the fuperficies to an unknown depth,
is an almoft white or cinereous coloured tenacious
fattifh clay, which all kinds of cattle lick into great
caves, purfuing the delicious vein. It is the com-
mon opinion of the inhabitants, that this clay is im-
pregnated with faline vapours, arifing from foflile
falts deep in the earth ; but I could difcover nothing
faline in its tafte, but 1 imagined an infipid fweet-
nefs. Horned cattle, horfes, and deer, are immo-
derately fond of it, infomuch, that their excrement,
which almoft totally covers the earth to fome dif-
tance round dais place, appears to be perfect clay ;
which, when dried by the fun and air? is almoft as
hard as brick.

.We were detained at this place one day, in ad-
jufting and planning the feveral branches of the
furvey. A circumftance occurred during this time,
which was a remarkable inftance of Indian faga-
city, and had nearly difconcerted all our plans, and
put an end to the bufinefs. The furveyor having fixed
his compafs on the ftaff, and being about to afcer-
tain the courfe from our place of departure, which
v/as to ftrike Savanna river at the confluence of a
pertain river, about feventy miles diftance from us ;

D 4 jul}

TRAVELS IN'

40

juft as he had determined upon the point, the In*
dian chief came up, and obferving the courfe he had
fixed upon, fpoke, and faid it was not right; but
that the courfe to the place was fo and fo, holding
up his hand, and pointing. The furveyor replied,
that lie himfelf was certainly right, adding, that
that little inftrumcnt (pointing to the compafs) told
him fo, w'hich, he faid, could not err. The Indian
anfwered, he knew better, and that the little
wicked inftrument was a liar; and he would not ac-
quiefce in its decifions, ftnce it would wrong the
Indians out of their land. This millake (the fur-
veyor proving to be in the wrong) difpleafed the
Indians ; the difpute arofe to that height, that the
chief and his party had determined to break up the
bufinefs, and return the fhorteft way home, and
forbad the lurveyors to proceed any farther : how-
ever, after fome delay, the complaifance and pru-
dent conduct of the colonel made them change their
refolution ; the chief became reconciled, upon con-
dition that the compafs fhould be difcarded, and
rendered incapable of lerving on this bufinefs ; that
the chief himfelf fhould lead the furvey; and,
moreover, receive an order for a very confiderable
quantity of goods.

Matters being now amicably fettled, under this
new regulation, the colonel having detached two
companies on feparate routes, Mr. Mftntofh and
myfelf attaching ourfelves to the colonel’s party,
whofe excurfion was likely to be the moft extenfive
and varied, we fit off from the Buffalo Lick, and
the Indian chief, heading the party, condu&ed us
on a ftraight line, as appeared by collateral obfer-
vation, to the defired place. We purfued nearly
a north courfe up the Great Ridge, until we came
near the branches of Broad River, when we turned

off

NORTH AMERICA.

off to the right hand, and encamped on a confi-
derable branch of it. At this place we continued
almoil a whole day, conftituting furveyors and
aftronomers, who were to take the courfe, diftance,
and obfervations on Broad River, and from thence
down to its confluence with the Savanna.

The Great Ridge con fills of a continued high
foreft; the foil fertile, and broken into moderately
elevated hills, by the many rivulets which have
their fources in it. The heights and precipices
abound in rock and ftone. The foreft trees and
other vegetable productions are the fame as already
mentioned about Little River: I obferved hale-
fia, ftyrax, aefculus pavia, selc. fylvatica, robinia
hifpida, magnolia acuminata, mag. tripetala, and
fome very curious new fhrubs and plants, particu-
larly the phyfic-nut, or Indian olive. The items
arife many from a root, two or three feet high;
the leaves fit oppoflte, on very ihort petioles ; they
are broad, lanceolate, entire, and undulated, hav-
ing fmooth furfaces of a deep green colour. From
the bofom of each leaf is produced a Angle oval
drupe, {landing erect, on long (lender items ; it
has a large kernel, and thin pulp. The fruit is
yellpw when ripe, and about the Aze of an olive.
The Indians, when they go in purfuit of deer, carry
this fruit with them, fuppofing that, it has the
power of charming or drawing that creature to
them ; from whence, with the traders, it has ob-
tained the name of the phyfic-nut, which means,
with them, charming, conjuring, or fafcinating.
malva fcandens, filix fcandens, perhaps a fpecies
of trichomanes; the leaves are palmated, or ra-
diated; it climbs and roves about, on fhrubs, in moiil
ground. A very Angular and elegant plant, of an

unknown

TRAVELS IN'

42

unknown family, called Indian lettuce, made its firfl:
appearance in thefe rich vales ; it is a biennial ; the
primary or radical leaves are fomewhat fpatuled,
or broad, lanceolate, and obtufe pointed, of a pale
yellowifli green, fmooth furface, and of a delicate
frame, or texture; thefe leaves fpread equally on
every fide, almoft reclining on the ground; from
their centre arifes a ftraight upright Item, five, fix,
or feven feet high, fmooth and polifhed ; the ground
of a dark purple colour, which is elegantly pow-
dered with greenifh yellow fpecks; the Item, three-
fourths of its length, is embellifhed with narrow
leaves, nearly of the fame form with the radical ones,
placed at regular diftances, in verticilate order. The
Superior one-fourth divifion of this ftem is formed
into a pyramidal fpike of flowers, rather diffiife ;
thefe flowers are of the hexandria, large, and ex-
panded; of a dark purple colour, delicately pow-
dered with green, yellow, and red, and divided
into fix parts, or petals ; thele are fucceeded by tri-
quetrous dry pericarpi, when ripe.

This great ridge is a vaft extended projection of
the Cherokee or Alegany mountains, gradually in-
creafing in height and extent, from its extremity
at the Lick, to its union with the high ridge of
mountains anciently called the Apalachian moun-
tains ; it every where approaches much nearer the
waters of the Alatamaha than thofe of the Savanna.
At one particular place, where we encamped, on
the Great Ridge, during our repofe there part of
a day, our hunters going out, underftanding that
their route was to the low lands on the Ocone,
I accompanied them : we had not rode above
three miles before we came to the banks of that
beautiful river. The cane fwamps, of immenfe
extent, and die oak forefts, on the level lands,

are

NORTH AMERICA.

4 3

are incredibly fertile ; which appears from the tall
reeds of the one, and the heavy timber of the other.

Before we left the waters of Broad River, having
encamped in the evening on one of its confiderable
branches, and left my companions, to retire, as ufual,
on botanical refearches, on afcending a deep rocky
hill, I accidentally difcovered a new fpecies of ca-
ryophyllata (geum odoratiflimum) ; on reaching to
a fhrub my foot flipped, and, in recovering myfelf,
I tore up fome of the plants, whole roots filled the
air with animating feents of cloves and fpicy perfumes.

On my return towards camp, I met my philo-
fophic companion, Mr. Mflntofh, who was feated
on the bank of a rivulet, and whom I found highly
entertained by a very novel and curious natural ex-
hibition, in which I participated with high relifh.
The waters at this place were, ftill and fhoal, and
flowed over a bed of gravel juft beneath a rocky
rapid : in this eddy Ihoal were a number of little
gravelly pyramidal hills, whofe fummits rofe almoft
to the furface of the water, very artfully conftrucft-
ed by a fpecies of fmall cray-fifh (cancer macrou-
rus) which inhabited them : here feemed to be their
citadel, or place of retreat for their young againft
the attacks and ravages of their enemy, the gold-
filh : thefe, in numerous bands, continually infefted
them, except at Ihort intervals, when lmall detach-
ments of veteran cray-fifh fallied out upon them,
from their cells within the gravelly pyramids, at
which time a brilliant fight prdented : the little gold
fifh inftantly fled from every fide, darting through
the tranfparent waters like ftreams of lightning ;
fome even fprang above the furface, into the air,
but all quickly returned to the charge, furround-
ing the pyramids as before, on the retreat of the

cray-

TRAVELS IN

4+

cray-fifh ; in this manner the war leemed to be
continual.

The gold-fifh is about the fize of the anchovy,
nearly four inches long, of a neat flender form ; the
head is covered with a falade of an ultramarine blue,
the back of a reddifh brown, the fides and belly of
a flame, or of the colour of a fine red lead ; a nar-
row dufky line runs along each fide, from the gills
to the tail ; the eyes are large, with the iris like
burnifhed gold. This branch of Broad River is
about twelve yards wide, and has two, three, and
four feet depth of water, and winds through a fer-
tile vale, almoft overfhadowed on one fide by a
ridge of high hills, well timbered with oak, hic-
cory, liriodendron, magnolia acuminata, pavia fyl-
vatica, and on their rocky fummits, fagus cafta-
nea rhododendron ferrugineum, kalmia latifolia,
cornus Florida, &c.

One of our Indian young men, this evening,
caught a very large falmon trout, weighing about
fifteen pounds, which he prefented to the colonel,
who ordered it to be ferved up for fupper. The In-
dian ftruck this fifh, with a reed harpoon, pointed
very Iharp, barbed, and hardened by the fire. The
fifh lay clofe under the fteep bank, which tire Indian
difeovered and ftruck with his reed ; inftantly the fifli
darted oft' with it, whilft the Indian purlued, with-
out extrafting the harpoon, and widt repeated
thrufts drowned it, and then dragged it to fliore.

After leaving Broad River, the land rifes very
fenfibly, and the country being mountainous, our
progrefs became daily more difficult and flow j yet
tlie varied feenes of pyramidal hills, high forefts,
rich vales, ferpentine rivers, and cataradts, fully

compenfated

NORTH AMERICA.

45

compenfated for our difficulties and delays. I ob-
ferved the great aconitum napellus, delphinium
peregrinum, the carminative angelica lucida *, and
cerulean malva.

We at length happily accompliffied our line, ar-
riving at the little river, where our hunters bring-
ing in plenty of venifon and turkeys, we had a plen-
tiful feaft at fupper. Next morning we marked the
corner tree, at the confluence of Little River and the
Savanna; and, foon after, the Indians amicably
took leave of us, returning home to their towns.

The rocks and foffils, which conflitute the hills
of this middle region, are of various fpecies,
as, quartfum, ferrum, cos, filex, glarea, arena,
ochra, ftalaftites, iaxum, mica, &c. I faw no
figns of marble, plafter, or lime-ftone; yet there
are, near Augufta, in the forells, great piles of a
porous friable white rock, in large and nearly hori-
.zontal maflfes, which feems to be an heterogeneous
concrete, conflfting of pulverized fea fhells, with
a fmall proportion of fand; it is foft, and eafily
wrought into any form, yet of fufficient confidence
for conftrufting any building.

As for the animal produftions, they are the fame
which originally inhabited this part of North Ame-
rica, except fuch as have been affrighted away fmce
the invaflon of the Europeans. The buffalo (urus)
-once lo very numerous, is not at this day to be feen
in this part of the country ; there are but few elks, and
thofe only in the Apalachian mountains. The dreaded
and formidable rattle-fnake is yet too common, and
a variety of other ferpents abound, particularly that
admirable creature the glafs-fnake : I faw a very

* Called nondo in Virginia : by the Creek and Cherokee traders, white
root.

large

3

/

46 TRAVELS Ijf

large and beautiful one, a little diftance from our
camp. The alligator, a fpecies of crocodile, abounds
in the rivers and fwamps, near the fea coaft, but is
not to be feen above Augufta. Bears, tygers*,
wolves, and wild cats (felis cauda truncata) are
numerous enough : and there is a very great variety
of papilio and phalena, many of which are admir.’
ably beautiful, as well as other infects of infinite
variety. .

The furveyors having completed their obferva-
tions, we fat off next day on our return to Augufta,
taking our route generally through the low lands
on the banks of the Savanna. We crofted Broad
River, at a newly fetded plantation, near its conflu-
ence with the Savanna. On my arrival at Augufta,
finding myfelf a little fatigued, I ltaid there a day
or two, and then fat off again for Savanna, the ca-
pital, where we arrived in good health.

Having, in this journey, met with extraordinary
fuccefs, not only in the enjoyment of an uninter-
rupted ftate of good health, and efcaping ill acci-
dents, incident to fuch excurfions, through unin-
habited wilderneffes, and an Indian frontier, but alfo
in making a very extenfive collection of new dif-
coveries of natural productions ; on the recollection
of lb many and great favours and bleflings, I now,
with a high fenfe of gratitude, prefume to offer up
my fincere thanks to the Almighty, the Creator and
Preferver.

* This creature is called, in Pennfylvania and the northern States, panther ;
but in Carolina and the fouthern States, is called tyger; it is very ftrong,.
much larger than any dog, of a yellowiih brown, or clay colour, having at
very long tail : it is a mifchicVous animal, and preys on calves, young
colts, Sec.

C HAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

47

C HAP. V.

Having completed my Hortus Siccus, and made
up my collections of feeds and growing roots, the
fruits of my late weftern tour, and fent them to
Charlefton, to be forwarded to Europe, I fpent the
remaining part of this leafon in botanical excurfions
to the low countries, between Carolina and Eaft
Florida, and collected feeds, roots, and fpecimens,
making drawings of fuch curious fubjeCts as could
not be preferved in their native ftate of excellence.

During this recefs from the high road of my tra-
vels, having obtained the ufe of a neat light cyprcfc
canoe, at Broughton I (land, a plantation, the pro-
perty of the Hon. Henry Laurens, El'q. I ftored
myfelf with necelfaries for the voyage, and refolved
upon a trip up the Alatamaha.

I afeended this beautiful river, on whofe fruit-
ful banks the generous and true fons of liberty fe-
curely dwell, fifty miles above the white fettle-
ments.

Flow gently flow thy peaceful floods, O Alata-
maha ! How lublimely rife to view, on thy elevated
Ihores, yon magnolian groves, from whofe tops
the furrounding expanfe is perfumed, by clouds of
incenfe, blended with the exhaling balm of the li-
quidambar, and odours continually arifing from
circumambient aromatic groves of illicium, myrica,
laurus, and bignonia.

When wearied with working my canoe againfl
the impetuous current (which becomes ftronger by

reafon

TRAVELS IN

48

reafon of the mighty floods of the river, with Col-
lected force, prefling through the firft hilly afcents,
where the fhores on each fide prefent to view rocky
cliffs rifing above the furface of the water, in nearly
flat horizontal mafies, walhed fmooth by the de-
fcending floods, and which appear to be a compo-
fition, or concrete, of fandy lime-ftone) I refigned
my bark to the friendly current, referving to my-
felf the controul of the helm. My progrefs was
rendered delightful by the fylvan elegance of the
groves, cheerful meadows, and high diftant forefts>
which in grand order prefented themfelves to view.
The winding banks of the river, and the high pro-
jecting promontories, unfolded frefh feenes of gran-
deur and fublimity. The deep forefts and diftant
hills re-echoed the cheering focial lowings of do-
meftic herds. The air was filled with the loud
end flirill whooping of the wary fharp-fighted crane.
Behold, on yon decayed, defoliated cyprefs tree*
the folitary wood-pelican, dejectedly perched upon
ks utmoft elevated fjpire ; he there, like an ancient
venerable fage, fets himfelf up as a mark of deri-
fion, for the fafety of his kindred tribes. The
crying-bird, another faithful guardian, fereaming
in the gloomy thickets, warns the feathered tribes
of approaching peril ; and the plumage of the ffwift
failing fquadrons of Spanifh curlews (white as the
immaculate robe of innocence) gleams in die ceru-
lean fkies.

Thus fecure and tranquil, and meditating on the
marvellous feenes of primitive nature, as yet un-
modified by the hand of man, I gently deicended
the peaceful ftream, on whofe polifhed furface were
depifted the mutable fhadows from its penfile banks;
whilft myriads of finny inhabitants fported in its pel- !
lucid floods.

The

NORTH AMERfCA.

49

The glorious fovereign of day, clothed in light
refulgent, rolling on his gilded chariot, haftened to
revifit the weftern realms. Grey penfive eve now
admonifhed us of gloomy night’s hafty approacli : I
was roufed by care to feek a place of fecure repofe,
ere darknefs came on.

Drawing near the high fhores, I afcended the
deep banks, where flood a venerable oak. An an-
cient Indian field, verdured over with fucculent
grafs, and chequered with coppices of fragrant
fhrubs, offered to my view the Myrica cerifera.
Magnolia glauca, Laurus benzoin, Laur. Borbonia,
Rhamnus frangula, Prunus Chicafaw, Prun. lau-
rocerafus, and others. It was nearly encircled with
an open forefl of ftately pines (Pinus paluflris)
through which appeared the extenfive favanna, the
fecure range of the fwift roebuck. In front of my
landing, and due eafl, I had a fine profpe6l of the
river and low lands on each fide, which gradually
widened to the fea coafl, and gave me an uncon-
fined profpedt, whilft the far diftant fea-coafl ifiands,
like a coronet, limited the hoary horizon.

My barque being fecurely moored, and having
reconnoitred the furrounding groves, and collefled
fire-wood, I fpread my fkins and blanket by my
cheerful fire, under the protefting fhade of the hof-
pitable Live-oak, and reclined my head on my hard
but healthy couch. I liflened, undisturbed, to the
divine hymns of the feathered fongflers of the
groves, whilft the foftly whifpering breezes faintly
died away.

The fun now below the weftern horizon, the
moon majeftically rifing in the eaft ; again the tune-
ful birds became infpired: how melodious is the
focial mock-bird ! die groves refound the unceafing

E cries

TRAVELS IN

50

cries of the whip-poor-will; the moon about an
hour above the horizon; lo! a dark eclipfe* of her
glorious brightnefs came flowly on ; at length, a
filver thread alone encircled her temples : at this
boding change, an univerfal filence prevailed.

Nature now weary, I refigned myfelf to reft;
the night pafled over ; the cool dews of the morn-
ing awoke me; my fire burnt low ; the blue fmoke
fcarce rofe above the moiftened embers ; all was
gloomy : the late ftarry fkies, now overcaft by thick
clouds, warned me to rife and be going. The
livid purple clouds thickened on the frowning brows
of the morning; the tumultuous winds from the
eaft now exerted their power. O peaceful Alatama-
ha ! gentle by nature ! how thou wert ruffled ! thy
wavy furface disfigured every objeCt, prefenting
them obfeurely to the fight, and they at length to-
tally difappeared, whilft the furious winds and l'weep-
ing rains bent the lofty groves, and proftrated the
quaking grafs, driving the affrighted creatures to
their dens and caverns.

The tempeft now relaxed, its impetus being Ipent,
and a calm ferenity gradually took place; by noon the
clouds broke away, the blue fky appeared, die fulgid
fun-beams fpread abroad their animating light, and
the fteady weftern wind refumed his peaceful reign.
The ivaters were purified, the waves fubfided, and the
beautiful river regained its native calmnefs. So it is
with the varied and mutable feenes of human events
on the ftream of life. The higher powers and af-
fections of the foul are fo blended and connected
with the inferior paflions, that the moft painful feel-
ings are excited in the mind when the latter are
crofted ; thus in the moral lyftem, which we have

* The air at this time being ferenc, and not a cloud to be fecn, I faw this
annual almoft total autumnal eclipfe in its highclt degree of perfection.

planned

NORTH AMERICA.

51

planned for our conduct, as a ladder whereby to
mount to the fummit of terreftrial glory and hap-
pinefs, and from whence we perhaps meditated our
flight to heaven itfelf, at the very moment when we
vainly imagine ourfelves to have attained its point,
fome unforefeen accident intervenes, and furprifes
us ; the chain is violently fhaken, we quit our hold
and fall : the well contrived fyftem at once becomes
a chaos; every idea of happinefs recedes; the fplen-
dour of glory darkens, and at length totally difap-
pears ; every pleafing objedt is defaced, all is de-
ranged, and the flattering fcene pafles quite away ;
a gloomy cloud pervades the underftanding, and
when we fee our progrefs retarded, and bur beft
intentions fruftrated, we are apt to deviate from the
admonitions and convictions of virtue, to fhut our
eyes upon our guide and protedtor, doubt of his
power, and defpair of his affiftance. But let us wait
and rely on our God, who in due time will fhine
forth in brightnefs, diflipate the envious cloud, and
reveal to us how finite and circumfcribed is human
power, when afluming to itfelf independent wifdom.

But, before I leave the river Alatamaha, we
will proceed to give a further and more particular
account of it. It has its fource in the Cherokee
mountains, near the head of Tugilo, the great
weft branch of Savanna, and, before it leaves
them, is joined and augmented by innumerable
rivulets ; thence it defcends through the hilly
country, with all its collateral branches, and winds
rapidly amongft the hills two hundred and fifty
miles, and then enters the flat plain country, by
the name of the Oakmulge ; thence meandering an
hundred and fifty miles, it is joined on the eaft fide
by the Ocone, which likewife heads in the lower
ridges of the mountains. After this confluence,

E 2 having

travels in

S1

paving now gained a vaft acquifition of waters, it
aflumes the name of Alatamaha, when it becomes
"-a large majeftic river, flowing with gentle wind-
ings through a vail plain foreft, near an hundred
miles, and enters the Atlantic by feveral mouths.
The north channel, or entrance, glides by the
heights of Darien, on the eaft bank, about ten miles
above the bar, and running from thence with fe-
veral turnings, enters the ocean between Sapello
and Wolf iflands. The fouth channel, which is
etleemed the largefl and deepeft, after its fepara-
tion from the north, defcends gently, winding by
McIntofh’s and Broughton iflands ; and laftly, by
the weft coaft of. St. Simon’s ifland, enters the
ocean, through St. Simon’s found, between the
fouth end of the ifland of that name and the north
end of Jekyl ifland. On the weft banks of the
fouth channel, ten or twelve miles above its mouth,
and nearly oppofite Darien, are to be feen the re-
mains of an ancient fort, or fortification ; it is now
a regular tetragon terrace, about four feet high,
with baftions at each angle ; the area may con-
tain about an acre of ground, but the fofie which
furronnded it is nearly filled up. There are large
Live Oak, Pines, and other trees, growing upon
it, and in the old fields adjoining. It is fuppofed
to have been the work of the French or Spaniards.
A large fwamp lies betwixt it and the river, and a
confiderable creek runs clofe by the works, and en-
ters the river through the fwamp, a fmall diftance
above Broughton ifland. About feventy or eighty
miles above the confluence of the Oakmulge and
Ocone, the trading path, from Augufta to the Creek
nation, crofles thel'e fine rivers, which are there
forty miles apart. On the eaft banks of the Oak-
mulge, this trading road runs nearly two miles
8 through

NORTH AMERICA.

53

through ancient Indian fields, which are called the
Oakmulge fields : they are the rich low lands of the
river. On the heights of thefe low grounds are yet
vifible monuments, or traces, of an ancient town,
fuch as artificial mounts or terraces, fquares and
banks, encircling confiderable areas. Their old
fields and planting land extend up and down the
river, fifteen or twenty miles from this fite.

If we are to give credit to the account the
Creeks give of themfelves, this place is remarkable
for being the firft town or fettlement, when they fat
down (as they term it) or eftablifhed themfelves,
after their emigration from the weft, beyond the
Miffifippi, their original native country. On this
long journey they fullered great and innumerable
difficulties, encountering and vanquifhing numerous
and valiant trib.es of Indians, who oppofed and re-
tarded their march. Having crofted the river, ftill
puffiing eaftward, they were obliged to make a
ftand, and fortify themfelves in this place, as their
only remaining hope, being to the laft degree per-
fecuted and weakened by their lurrounding foes.
Having formed for themfelves this retreat, and
driven off the inhabitants by degrees, they recover-
ed their fpirits, and again faced their enemies,
when they came off victorious in a memorable and
decifive battle. They afterwards gradually fubdued
their furrounding enemies, ftrengthening themfelves
by taking into confederacy the vanquiffied tribes. •

And they fay, alfo, that about this period the
Englifh were eftablifhing the colony of Carolina;
and the Creeks, underftanding that they were a
powerful, warlike people, fent deputies to Charlef-
ton, their capital, offering them their friendfhip and
alliance, which was accepted, and, in gonfequence

E J thereof

TRAVELS IN

54

thereof, a treaty took place between them, which
has remained inviolable to this day. They never
ceafed war againft the numerous and potent bands
of Indians, who then furrounded and cramped the
Englifh plantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches,
Wapoos, Santees, Yamafees, Utinas, Icofans, Pa-
ticas, and others, until they had extirpated them.
The Yamafees and their adherents flickering them-
felves under the power and protedion of the Spa-
niards of Eaft Florida, they purfued them to the
very gates of St. Auguftine; and the Spaniards re-
filling to deliver them up, thefe faithful intrepid al-
lies had the courage to declare war againft them,
and inceflantly perfecuted them, until they entirely
broke up and ruined their fettlements, driving them
before them, till at length they were obliged to re-
tire within the walls of St. Auguftine and a few in-
ferior fortified polls on the fea coaft.

After a few days I returned to Broughton ifland.
The Cherokees and their confederates being yet dif-
contented, and on bad terms with the white people,
it was unfafe to purfue my travels in the north wef-
tern regions of Carolina. And recolleding many
fubjeds of natural hiftory, which I had obferved in
the fouth of the iftlimus of Florida, when on a jour-
ney fome years ago with my father, John Bartram,
that were interefting, and not taken notice of by
.. any traveller ; and as it was then in the autumn and
winter, having reafon to think that veiy many cu-
rious fubjeds had efcaped our refearches ; I now
formed the refclution of travelling into Eaft Florida ;
accordingly, I immediately wrote to dodor Fo-
thergill, in order that he might know where to di-
red to me.

PART

NORTH AMERICA.

55

PART II.

CHAP. I.

We are, all of us, fubjeA to crolfes and diiap-
pointments, but more efpecially the traveller; and
when they furprife us, we frequently become reft-
lefs and impatient under them : but let us rely on
Providence, and by ftudying and contemplating the
works and power of the Creator, learn wiidom and
undemanding in the economy of nature, and be
ferioufly attentive to the divine monitor within. Let
us be obedient to die ruling powers in fuch things
as regard human affairs, our duties to each other,
and all creatures and concerns that are fubmitted to
our care and controul.

In the month of March, 1774, I fit off from Sa-
vanna, for Florida, proceeding by land to the Ala-
tamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably in
fhort excurfions, picking up curiofities, until the
arrival of a finall veffel at Frederica, from Savanna,
which was deftined to an Indian trading houfe high
up St. John’s, in Eaft Florida. Upon information
of this veffel’ s arrival, I immediately took boat and
defcended the Alatamaha, calling by the way of
Broughton ifland, where I was kindly received by
Mr. James Bailey, Mr. Laurens’s agent. _ Leaving
Broughton ifland in the evening, I continued de-
lcending the fouth channel nine or ten miles, when,
after eroding the found, I arrived at Frederica, on
the ifland of St. Simon, where I was well received
and entertained by James Spalding, efq. This gen-

E 4 tleman

TRAVELS IN

56

tleman carrying on a very confiderable trade, and
having extenfive connections with the Indian tribes
ofEaft Florida, gave me letters to his agents refid-
ing at his trading houfes, ordering them to furnilh
me with horfes, guides, and every other convenient
afliftance.

Before the veflel was ready to fail again for St.
John’s, I had time to explore the ifland. In the
cool of the morning early, I rode out of the town,
directing my courfe to the fouth end of the ifland.
After penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which al-
moft furrounded the town on the land -fide, fudden-
ly a very extenfive and beautiful green favanna
opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in
breadth near a mile, well flocked with horned cat-
tle, horfes, flieep, and deer. Following an old
highway, now out of repair, acrofs the Savanna,
I afcended the Hoping green bank, and entered a
noble foreft of lofty pines, and then a venerable
grove of Live Oaks, under whofe fhady fpreading
boughs opened a fpacious avenue, leading to the
former feat of general Oglethorpe, but now the
property of capt. Raimond Demere. After leav-
ing this town, I was led into a high pine foreft ;
the trees were tall, and generally of the fpecies
called Broom-pine (P. paluftris Linn.) the furface
of the ground covered with grafs, herbage, and
fome fhrubbery : I continued through this foreft
nearly in a direCl line towards the fea coaft, five or
fix miles, when the land became uneven, with
ridges of fand- hills, mixed with fea fhells, and co-
vered by almoft impenetrable thickets, confifting
of Live Oaks, Sweet- bay (L. Borbonia), Myrica,
Ilex aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula, Cafline, Sider-
oxylon, Ptelea, Halefia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, en-
tangled with Smilax pfeudo-china, and other

fpecies.

NORTH AMERICA.

57

fipecies, Bignonia femper virens, B. crueigera, Rham-
nus volubilis, &c. This dark labyrinth is fuccecded
by a great extent of fait plains, beyt>nd which the
boundlefs ocean is feen. Betwixt the dark foreft'
and the fait plains, I crofted a rivulet of frcfh wa-
ter, where I fat down a while to reft myfelf, under
the fhadow of fweet Bays and Oaks ; the lively
breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of
the fuperb Crinum, called by the inhabitants, White
Lily. This admirable beauty of the lea-coaft-
iflands dwells in the humid fhady groves, where the
foil is made fertile and mellow by the admixture of
fea lhells. The delicate ftruCture of its fpadix, its
green broad leaves, and the texture and whitenefs
of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphor-
bia piCta, Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea ereCta,
were alfo feated in front of my refting place, as
well as the Lycium falfum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.)
a very beautiful ever-green fhrub, its cerulean
flowers, and coral red berries, always on its
branches, forming not the leaft of its beauties.

Time now admonifhing me to rife and be going,
I, widi relu&ance, broke away from this aftembly
of maritime beauties.

Continuing on, fouthward, the fait plains on my
left hand infenfibly became narrower, and I at
length reached the ftrand, which was level, firm,
and paved with lhells, and afforded me a grand
view of the boundlefs ocean.

0 thou Creator fupreme, almighty ! how infinite
and incomprehenfible thy works ! moft perfect, and
every way aftonifhing!

1 continued nearly a mile along this firm fandy
beach, the waves of the fea fometimes waffling my

horfe’s

TRAVELS IN

55

horfe’s feet. I obferved a great variety of fhcil-
as Echinids, Corallinus, Patella, Medufa,
Buccina, Concha venerea, Auris marina, Cancer,
Squilia, &c. fome alive, and others dead, having
been call upon the beach by the feas, in times of
tempeft, where they became a prey to fca fowl,
and other maritime animals, or perilhed by the heat
of the fun and burning fands. At length I doubled
the utmoft fouth point of St. Simon’s, which forms
the north cape of the fouth channel of the great
river Alatamaha. The found, juft within this cape,
forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the fouth end
of the ifland, on the oppofite fide of which I be-
held a houfe and farm, where I foon arrived. This
delightful habitadon was fituated in the midft of a
fpacious grove of Live Oaks and Palms, near the
ftrand of the bay, commanding a view of the inlet.
A cool area furrounded the low but convenient
buildings, from whence, through the groves, was
a fpacious avenue into the ifland, terminated by a
large favanna; each fide of the avenue was lined
with bee-hives, to the number of fifty or fixty;
they feemed to be well peopled, and exhibited a
lively image of a colony that has attained to a ftate
of power and affluence, by the pra&ice of virtue
and induftry.

When I approached the houfe, the good man,
who was reclining on a bear-fkin, fpread under the
fhade of a Live Oak, fmoking his pipe, rofe and
faluted me: “ Welcome, ftranger, I am indulg-
ing the rational dictates of nature, taking a little
reft, having juft come in from the chace and fifh-
ing. ” After fome converfation and reft, his fer-
vant brought a bowl of honey and water, a very
refrelhing and agreeable liquor, of which I drank.
On rifing to take my departure. Ire obje&ed, and

requefted

NORTH AMERICA.

59

requefted me to ftay and dine with him ; and on
my pleading, for excufe, the neceflity of my being
at Frederica, “ Yet, I pray you, flay a little, I will
foon have fome refrefhment for you.” Prefently
was laid before us a plentiful repaft of venifon, &c. ;
our drink being honey and water, {Lengthened by
the addition of brandy. Our rural table was fpread
under the fhadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays,
fanned by the lively falubrious breezes wafted from
the fpicy groves. Our mufic was the refponfive
love-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alert
and gaymockbird; whilft the brilliant humming-
bird darted through the flowery groves, fufpended
in air, and drank nectar from the flowers of the
yellow Jafmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and fweet
Azalea.

But yet, how awfully great and fublime is the
majeftic fcene eaftward ! the folemn found of the
beating furf ftrikes our ears; the dafhing of yon
liquid mountains, like mighty giants, in vain affail
the fkies ; they are beaten back, and fall proftrate
upon the ftaores of the trembling ifland.

Taking leave of my fylvan friend, I fat off on
my return to the town, where I arrived before
night, having obferved, on the way, many curious
vegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma
(or great Cabbage Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypha
repens, frondibus expands, flabelliformibus, plica-
tis, ftipit. fpinofis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto) Corypha
obliqua, caudice arboreo adfcendente, frondibus
expands, flabelliformibus, plicatis, ftipit. ferratis,
Cyrilla, Tillandfta monoftachya, Till, lingulata, or
Wild Pine; both thefe curious vegetables are pa-
rafltes, living on the fubftance of others, particu-
larly on the limbs of the Live Oak ; the latter fpe-

cies

6o

TRAVELS IN

cies is a very large flourilhing plant, greatly re-
fembling, at fome diftance, a well grown plant of
the Bromelia Ananas : the large deep green leaves
are placed in an imbricated order, and afcendant;
but their extremities are reflex, their bafes gibbous
and hollowed, like a ladle, and capable of con-
taining near a pint of water : heavy tempefts of
wind and rain tear thefe plants from the trees ; yet
they live and flourifh on the earth, under the Iha-
dow of thefe great Live Oaks. A very large part
of this ifland had formerly been cleared and planted
by the Englilh, as appeared evidently to me, by
veftiges of plantations, ruins of coflly buildings,
highways, &c. but it is now overgrown with forefts.
Frederica was the firft town built by the Englilh in
Georgia, and was founded by general Oglethorpe,
who began and eftablilhed the colony. The for-
trefs was regular and beautiful, conftrudted chiefly
with brick, and was the largeft, moll regular, and
perhaps moll coftly, of any in North America, of
Britifh conllruftion : it is now in ruins, yet occu-
pied by a fmall garrifon ; the ruins alfo of the
town only remain; peach trees, figs, pomegra-
nates, and other Ihrubs, grow out of the ruinous
walls of former fpacious and expenfive buildings,
not only in the town, but at a dillance in various
parts of the ifland ; yet there are a few neat houfes
in good repair, and inhabited : it feems now reco-
vering again, owing to the public and liberal fpirit
and exertions of J. Spalding, efq. who is prefident
of the ifland, and engaged in very extenfive mer-
cantile concerns.

C HAP.

tfORTH AMERICA.

61

C H A P. II.

The veffel in which I was to embark for Eaft
Florida, being now ready to purfue her voyage, we
fat fail with a fair wind and tide. Our courfe was
fouth, through the found, betwixt a chain of fea-
coaft-iflands, and the main. In the evening we
came to, at the fouth end of St. Simon’s, having
been hindered by the flood tide making againft us.
The captain and.myfelf, with one of our crew, went
on Ihore, with a view of getting fome venifon and
fea fowl. We had not the good fortune to fee any
deer, yet we were not altogether unfuccefsful, hav-
ing taken three young racoons (Urfus cauda elon-
gata) which are excellent meat: we had them for
fupper, ferved up in a pillo. Next morning early,
we again got under way, running by Jekyl and
Cumberland I (lands, large, beautiful, and fertile, yet
thinly inhabited, and confequently excellent haunts
for deer, bears, and other game.

As we ran by Cumberland Ifle, keeping the chan-
nel through the found, we faw a fail a head coming
up towards us. Our captain knew it to be the
trading fchooner from the (lores on St. John’s, and
immediately predicted bad news, as (he was not to
fail until our arrival there. As (he approached us,
hk apprehenfions were more and more confirmed,
from the appearance of a number of pafiengers on
deck. We laid to, until (lie came up, when we.
hailed her, “ What news ?” “ Bad ; the Indians
have plundered the upper (lore, and the traders have
efcaped, only with their lives.” Upon this both
veflels came to anchor very near each other, when,

learning

O

6 2

TRAVELS IN

learning the particulars, it appeared, that a large
party of Indians had furprifed and plundered two
trading houfes, in the ifthmus, beyond the river St.
John’s; and a third being timely apprifed of their hof-
tile intentions, by a faithful runner, had time to carry
off part of the effects, which they fecreted in a fwamp
at fome diftance from it, covering them with fkins.
The upper ftore had faved their goods in like man-
ner; and the lower ftore, to which wc were bound,
had removed the chief of theirs, and depofited them
on a fmall ifland, in the river, about five miles be-
low the ftore. With thefe effects was my cheft, which
I had forwarded in this veffel, from Savanna, not
being at that time determined whether to make
this journey by land, or water. The captain of our
veffel, refolved to put about and return to Frede-
rica, for frefli inftructions how to proceed ; but for
my part, I was determined to proceed for the ifland
up St. John’s, where my cheft was lodged, there be-
ing fome valuable books and papers in it, which I
could not do well without. I accordingly defired
our captain to put me on fhore, on Little St. Si-
mon’s, which was not far diftant, intending to walk
a few miles to a fort, at the fouth end of that ifland,
where fome fifhermen refided, who, as I expected,
would fet me over on Amelia Ifland, where
was a large plantation, the property of Lord Eg-
mont, a Britifh nobleman, whofe agent, while I
was at Frederica, gave me an invitation to call on
him, as I paffed toward Eaft Florida; and hcfreT
had expectations of getting a boat to carry me to
St. John’s. Agreeably to my defire, the captain
put me on fhore, with a young man, a paffenger,
for Eaft Florida, who promifed to- continue with me,
and ftiare my adventures. We landed fafely ; the cap-
tain wi firing us a profperous journey, returned on

board

NORTH AMERICA.

6j

board his veffel, and we proceeded for the fort, en-
countering fomc harfh treatment from thorny thick-
ets, and prickly vines. However we reached the
fort in the evening. The commander was out in the
foreft, hunting. My companion being tired, or in-
dolent, betook himfelf to reft, while I made a tour
round the fouth point of the ifland, walking the
fhelly paved fea beach, and picking up novelties. I
had not gone above a mile, before I came up to a
roebuck, lying (lain on the lands; and hearing the
report of a gun, not far off, and fuppofing it to be
from the captain of the fort, whom I expected foon
to return to take up his game, I retired to a little
diftance, mounted the land hills, and fat down, en-
joying a fine profpett of the rolling billows and
foaming breakers, beating on the bar, and north
promontory of Amelia Ifle," oppofite to me. The
captain of the fort foon came up, with a flain buck
on his Ihoulders. We hailed each other, and re-
turned together to the fort, where we were well
treated, and next morning, at my requeft, the
captain obligingly fat us over, landing us fafely on
Amelia. After walking through a fpacious foreft
of Live Oaks and Palms, and eroding a creek that
ran through a narrow fait marfh, I and my fellow
traveller arrived fafe at the plantation, where the
agent, Mr. Egan, received us very politely and hof-
pitably. This gentleman is a very intelligent and
able planter, having already greatly improved the
eftate, particularly in the cultivation of indigo.
Great part of this ifland confifts of excellent hom-
mocky land, which is the foil this plant delights
in, as well as cotton, corn, batatas, and almoft
every other efculent vegetable. Mr. Egan politely
rode with me over great part of the ifland. On

Egmont

TRAVELS IN

64

Egmont eftate are feveral very large Indian tu-
muli, which are cahed Ogeeche mounts, fo named
from that nation of Indians, who took rhelter here,
after being driven from their native fettlements on
the main near Ogeeche river. Here they were con-
ftantly harafled by the Carolinians and Creeks, and
at length (lain by their conquerors, and their bones
entombed in thefe heaps of earth and fhells. I ob-
ferved here the ravages of the common grey cater-
pillar (Phalena periodica), fo deftrudtive to foreft
and fruit trees, in Pennfylvania, and through the
northern ftates, by ftripping them of their leaves, in
the fpring, while young and tender.

Mr. Egan having bufinefs of importance to tranf-
adt in St. Auguftine, prefled me to continue with
him a few days, when he would accompany me to
that place, and, if I chofe, I fhould have a paflage,
as far as the Cow-ford, on St.John’s, where he would
procure me a boat to profecute my voyage.

It may be a fubjedt worthy of fome inquiry, why
thofe fine i Hands, on the coaft of Georgia, are fo
thinly inhabited ; though perhaps Amelia may in
fome degree plead an exemption, as it is a very fer-
tile ifland, on the north border of Eafi: Florida, and
at the Capes of St. Mary, the fineft harbour in this
new colony. If I fhould give my opinion, the fol-
lowing feem to be the moft probable reafons : the
greateft part of thefe are as yet the property of a
few wealthy planters, who having their refidence
on the continent, where lands on the large rivers,
as Savanna, Ogeeche, Alatamaha, St. Ille, and others,
are of a nature and quality adapted to die growth
of rice, which the planters chiefly rely upon for
obtaining ready cafh, and purchafing family arti-
cles j they fetde a few poor families on their in-

fular

NORTH AMERICA.

65

fular eftates, who rear ftocks of horned catde,
horfes, Twine, and poultry, and protedt the game for
their proprietors. The inhabitants of thefe iflands
alfo lie open to the invafion and ravages of pirates,
and in cafe of a war, to incurfions from their ene-
mies armed velfels ; in which cafe they mult either
remove with their families and effects to the main,
or be ftripped of all their moveables, and their
houfes laid in ruins.

The foil of thefe iflands appears to be particu-
larly favourable to the culture of indigo and cotton,
and there are on them fome few large plantations
for the cultivation and manufacture of thofe valu-
able articles. The cotton is planted only by the
-poorer clafs of people, juft enough for their family
confumption : they plant two fpecies of it, the an-
nual and Weft Indian; the former is low, and
planted every year ; the balls of this are very
large, and the phlox long, ftrong, and perfectly
white; the Weft Indian is a tall perennial plant,
the ftalk fomewhat fhrubby, feveral of whith rife
up from the root for feveral years fucceffively, the
ftems of the former year being killed by the winter
frofts. The balls of this latter fpecies are not quite
fo large as thofe of the herbaceous cotton ; but the
phlox, or wool, is long, extremely fine, filky, and
white. A plantation of this kind will laft feveral
years, with moderate labour and care, whereas the
annual fort is planted every year.

The coafts, founds, and inlets, environing thefe
iflands, abound with a variety of excellent fifh,
particularly Rock, Bafs, Drum, Mullet, Sheeps-
head, Whiting, Grooper, Flounder, Sea Trout,
[this laft feems to be a fpecies of Cod] Skate, Skip-
jack, Stingray, The Shark, and great Black Sting-

F ray,

TRAVELS IN

66

ray, arc infatiable cannibals, and very troublefome
to the fifhermen. The bays and lagoons are ftored
with oyfters, and varieties of other fhell-fifn, crabs,
fhrimp, &c. The clams, in particular, are large,
their meat white, tender, and delicate.

There is a large fpace betwixt this chain of fea-
coaft-iflands and the main land, perhaps generally
near three leagues in breadth ; but all this fpace is
not covered with water: I eftimate nearly two-
thirds of it to confift of low fait plains, which pro-
duce Barilla, Sedge, Rufhes, &c. and which border
on the main land, and the weftern coafts of the iflands.
The eaft fides of thefe iflands are, for the moft part,
clean, hard, fandy beaches, expoled to the wafh of
the ocean. Between thefe iflands are the mouths
or entrances of fome rivers, which run down from
the continent, winding about through thefe low fait
marfhes, and delivering their waters into the founds,
which are very extenfive capacious harbours, from
three to five and fix to eight miles over, and com-
municate with each other by parallel fait rivers, or
paffes, that flow into the found : they afford an ex-
tenfive and fecure inland navigation for mod crafc,
fuch as large fchooners, (loops, pettiaugers, boats,
and canoes; and this inland communication of wa-
ters extends along the fea coafi: with but few and
fhort interruptions, from the bay of Chefapeak, in
Virginia, to the Miflifippi, and how much farther I
know not, perhaps as far as Vera Cruz. Whether
this chain of fea-coaft-iflands is a flep, or advance,
which this part of our continent is now making on
the Atlantic ocean, we mufl leave to future ages to
determine. But it feems evident, even to demon-
ftration, that thofe fait marfhes adjoining the coafi:
of the main, and the reedy and graffy iflands and

marflies

NORTH AMERICA. 67

marfhes in the rivers, which are now overflowed at
every tide, were formerly high fwamps of firm land,
affording forefts of Cyprefs, Tupilo, Magnolia gran-
diflora, Oak, Afh, Sweet Bay, and other timber
trees, the fame as are now growing on the river
fwamps, whofe furface is two feet or more above
the fpring tides that flow at this day; and it is
plainly to be feen by every planter along the coaft
of Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, to the Miffifippi,
when they bank in thefe graffy tide marfhes for
cultivation, that they cannot fink their drains above
three or four feet below the furface, before they
come to flrata of Cyprefs flumps and other trees, as
clofe together as they now grow in the fwamps.

F 2

CH Af\

68

TRAVELS IN

CHAP. III.

Being now in readinefs to profecute our voyage
to St. John’s, we fat fail in a handfome pleafure-
boat, manned with four flout negro flaves, to row
in cafe of neceflity. After paffing Amelia Nar-
rows, we had a pleafant run acrols fort George’s
found, where, oblerving the pelicans fifliing, Mr.
Egan fhot one of them, which he took into the
boat. I was greatly furprifed on obferving the
pouch or fack, which hangs under the bill : it is
capable of being expanded to a prodigious fize.
One of the people on board, faid, that he had feen
more than half a bufhel of bran crammed into one
of their pouches. The body is larger than that of
a tame goofe, the legs extremely fhort, the feet
webbed, the bill of a great length, bent inwards
like a fcythe, the wings extend near feven feet from
tip to tip, the tail is very fhort, the head, neck, and
breaft, nearly white, the body of a light bluifh gray,
except the quill feathers of the wings, which are
black. They feem to be of the gull kind, both in
form and flruclure, as well as manner of fifhing.
The evening following, we landed on the main.
It was a promontory of high land, covered with
orange-trees, and projecting into the found, forming
a convenient port. We pitched our tent under the
fhelter of a forelt of Live Oaks, Palms, and Sweet
Bays ; and having in the courfe of the day, procured
plenty of fea fowl, fuch as curlews, willets, fnipes,
land birds, and others ; we had them drelfed for
fupper, and feafoned with excellent oyfters, which
lay in heaps in the water, clofe to our landing-place.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

69

The Ihrub Capficum growing here in abundance, af-
forded us a very good pepper : we drank of a well
of frefh water juft at hand, amidft a grove of Myr-
tles (Myrica cerifera.) Our repofe however was
incomplete, from the filings of mufquetoes, the roar-
ing of crocodiles, and the continual noife and reft-
leffnefs of the fea fowl, thoufands of them having
their roofting-places very near us, particularly loons
of various fpecies, herons, pelicans, Spanilh curlews,
&c. all promifcuoufly lodging together, and in fuch
incredible numbers, that the trees were entirely co-
vered. They rooft in inacceflible iftets in the fait
marfhes, furrounded by lagoons, and fhallow water.
Juft without the trees, betwixt them, the water and
marfhes, is a barricade of Palmetto royal (Yucca
gloriora) or Adam’s needle, which grows fo thick
together, that a rat or bird can fcarcely pafs through
them; and the ftiff leaves of this fword plant, Hand-
ing nearly horizontally, are as impenetrable to man,
or any other animal, as if they were a regiment of
grenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. The
Palmetto royal is, however, a very Angular and beau-
tiful production. It may be termed a tree, from
its durability and magnitude, as likewife from the
ligneous quality of its ftem, or trunk, when old ;
yet from its form and texture, I fhould be inclined
to rank it amongft the herbaceous plants, for even
the glorious Palm, although it rifes to the altitude
of a tree, and even tranfcends moft of them, yet
it bears the characters of the herbaceous ones: and
this, like the Palm tree, rifes with a ftraight, erect
ftem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with
a beautiful chaplet of fword or dagger like leaves,
of a perfect green colour, each terminated with a
ftiff, fharp fpur, and their edges finely crenated.
I his thorny crown is crefted with a pyramid of fil-

F 3 ver

TRAVELS IN

70

ver white flowers, each refembling a tulip or lily.
Thefe flowers are fucceeded by a large fruit, nearly
of the form and fize of a (lender cucumber, which
when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the (kin
fmooth and fhining, its pulp foft, very juicy, and
of an agreeable aromatic flavour, but rather bitter
to the tafte; it is, however, frequendy eaten, but
if eaten to excefs, proves violently purgative. The
feeds are numerous, flat, and lunated.

The plant, or tree, when grown old, fometimes
divides into two or three (lems, which feem of
equal height and thicknefs, and indeed nearly of the
fame thicknefs with the main ftem ; but generally,
when they arrive to this age and magnitude, their
own weight brings them to the ground, where they
foon decay, the heart or pith firft, leaving a hol-
low fibrous reticulated trunk or fleeve, which like-
wife foon after decays, and in fine, all is again re-
duced to its original earth, and replaces the vege-
tative mould. But the deceafed are foon replaced
by others, as there are younger ones of all ages and
ftature, ready to fucceed their predeceflors, and
flouriih for a time, with the fame regal pomp and
fplendor. Thefe plants are fo multitudinous, when-
ever they get a footing, that the earth is completely
occupied by them, and fcarcely any other vege-
table is to be feen, where they are ; yet they are
fcmstimes fcattered amongft other trees and vege-
tables.

In three days after leaving Amelia, we arrived
at the Cow-ford, a public ferry, over St. John’s,
about thirty miles above the bar or capes, the river
here being above a mile wide.

Mr. Egan, after procuring a neat little fail-boat

for

NORTH AMERICA.

71

for me, at a large indigo plantation near the ferry,
and for which I paid three guineas, departed for St.
Augultine, which is on the fea-coaft, about forty-
five miles over land.

It was now about the middle of April. Vegeta-
tion appearing every where in high progrefs, I was
anxious to be advancing foutherly ; and having at
this plantation Itored myfelf with necelfaries for
my voyage, I failed in the morning, with a fair
wind, I was now again alone, for die young man,
my fellow traveller, though ftouter and heartier
than myfelf, having repented of his promife to ac-
company me to the Indian trading houfes, I fup-
pofe not relifhing the hardfhips and dangers, which
might perhaps befal us, chofe rather to Itay behind,
amonglt the fettlements. His leaving me, however,
I did not greatly regret, as I could not confider it
a difappointment much to my difadvantage at the
moment. Our views were probably totally oppo-
fite ; he, a young mechanic on his adventures, feemed
to be actuated by no other motives, than either to
eftablilh himfelf in fome well inhabited part of the
country, where, by following his occupation, he.
might be enabled to procure, without much toil and
danger, the necelfaries and conveniencies of life;
or by induftry and frugality, perhaps eftablilh his
fortune. Whillt I, continually impelled by a relt-
lefs fpirit of curiofity, in purluit of new produc-
tions of nature^ my chief happinefs confilted in trac-
ing and admiring the infinite power, majefty, and
perfection of the great Almighty Creator, and in
the contemplation, that through divine aid and per-
milfion, I might be inftrumental in difcovering, and
introducing into my native country, fome original
productions of nature, which might become uleful

F 4 to

TRAVELS IN

72

to fociety. Each of our purfuits was perhaps equally
laudable ; and upon this fuppofition, I was quite
willing to part with him upon amicable terms.

My little veflel being furnifhed with a good fail,
and having fifhing tackle-, a neat light fufee, pow-
der and ball, I found myfclf well equipped for my
voyage, about one hundred miles to the trading
houfe.

I crofted the river to a high promontory of -
wood-land, on the weft fhore, and being {truck with
the magnificence of a venerable grove of Live Oak,
Palms, and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I ftepped
on fhore to take a view of the place. Orange trees
were in full bloom, and filled the air with fra-
grance.

It was now paft noon, and this place being about
eight miles above tire Cow-ford, and the river near
three miles id breadth, I wanted to reach a planta-
tion in fight, on the oppofite fhore, in order to get
fome repairs, my veflel having fuftained fome da-
mage from the violence of the wind, in crofiing
over. I arrived late in the evening, and finding a
convenient landing-place and harbour, I concluded
to remain here till morning, and then coaft it clofe
along fhore to the plantation.

It beginning to thunder, I was fuflkiently warn-
ed to prepare againft a wet night ; and obferving
a very large Oak tree, which had been thrown
down by a hurricane, and offered me a convenient
fhelter, as its enormous limbs bore up the trunk
a fufficient height from the earth to admit me to
fit or lie down under it, I fpread my fail, flanting
from the trunk of the tree to the ground, on the

windward

NORTH AMERICA.

73

windward fide ; and having colle&ed a quantity of
wood, fufficient to keep up a fire during the night,

I ft ruck one up in front, and fpreading (kins on
the ground, and upon thefe placing a blanket, one
half I lay down upon, turning the other over me
for a covering.

The ftorm came up, with a furious wind and
tremendous thunder and lightning, from the oppo-
fite N. W. coaft, but luckily for me, little rain
fell, and I refted very well. But as the wind next
morning blew very frefh, right in upon the fhore,
there was no poflibility of moving, with fafety,
from my prefent fituation. I however arofe to
reconnoitre the ground round about my habita-
tion, being roufed by the report of a mufket not
far off. I had not left fight of my encampment,
following a winding path through a grove of Live
Oak, Laurel (Magn. grandiflora) and Sapindus,
before an Indian flepped out of a thicket, and
croffed the path juft before me, having a large
turkey cock flung acrofs his fhoulders : he faw
me, and ftepping up and fmiling, fpoke to me in
Englifh, bidding me good morning. I faluted him
with tc It’s well, brother,” led him to my camp,
and treated him with a dram. This friendly In-
dian informed me that he lived at the next planta-
tion, employed as a hunter. I afked him how far
it was to the houfe ; die anfwered about half a mile
by land, and invited me to go there, telling me
that his mafter was a very good, kind man, and
would be glad to fee me. I replied, that I would,
if my boat and effedts in the mean time could be
fafe. He laid that he would immediately return
to the houfe, and acquaint his mafter with it, who
would fend trufty negroes to bring my veil'd round

the

TRAVELS IN

74

the point, to the landing. I thanked him for his
civility, and not willing to be troublefome, I told
him I would leave my boat, and follow after him ;
fo taking my fufee on my fhoulder, after dragging
my bark as high up on fhore as I could, I followed
the Indian, and foon reached the houfe.

The gentleman received me in the moft polite
manner; and, after hearing my fituation, he re-
quefted me to make my abode with him a few days,
to reft and refrefh myfelf. I thanked him, and
told him I would ftay a day. He immediately fent
(laves who brought my boat round ; and having
carpenters at work on a new building, he fat them
about repairing my veflel, which by night was com-
pletely refitted.

I fpent the day in the moft agreeable manner,
in the fociety of this man of fingular worth. He
led me over his extenfive improvements, and we
returned in company with feveral of his neighbours.
In the afternoon, the moft fultry time of the day,
we retired to the fragrant fhades of an orange
grove. The houfe was fituated on an eminence,
about one hundred and fifty yards from the river.
On the right hand was the orangery, confiding of
many hundred trees, natives of the place, and left
Handing, when the ground about it was cleared.
Thefe trees were large, flourifhing, and in perfect
bloom, and loaded with their ripe golden fruit.
On the other fide was a fpacious garden, occupy-
ing a regular (lope of ground, down to the water ;
and a pleafant lawn lay between. Here were
large plantations of the Indigo plant, which ap-
peared in a very thriving condition : it was then
about five or fix inches high, growing in ftrait
parallel row's, about eighteen inches apart. The

Corn

NORTH AMERICA.

75

Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Convolv. Batata) were
greatly advanced in growth, and promifed a plen-
tiful crop. The Indigo made in Eafl Florida is
efteemed almoft equal to the bell; Spanilh, efpeci-
ally that fort, which they call Flora. Mr. Mar-
fhall prefented me with a fpecimen of his owq ma-
nufacture, at this plantation : it was very little, if
any, inferior to the belt P ruffian blue.

In the morning following, intimating my inten-
tions of proceeding on my voyage, Mr. Marfhall
again importuned me to ftay ; but I obtained his
confent to depart, on my promifing to vifit him
at my return to Georgia. After breakfaft I there-
fore took my leave, attended to the fhore by
feveral Haves, loaded with ammunition and pro-
vifions, which my friend had provided for me.
On my expreffing fome difficulty in receiving fo
large a ffiare of his bounty, he civilly replied,
that it was too little to mention, and that, if I had
continued with him a day or two longer, he ffiould
have had time to have ferved me in a much better
manner.

Taking my leave of Mr. Marfhall, I again em-
barked alone on board my little veffel, and bleffed
with a favourable • fleady gale, I let fail. The
day was extremely pleafant ; the late thunder florin
had purified the air, by difuniting and diffipating
tne noxious vapours. The falling of heavy ffiow-
ers, with thunder and brifk winds, from the cool
regions of the N. W. contributes greatly towards
reftoring the falubrity of the air,, and purity of
the waters, by precipitating the putrefcent fcum,
that rifes from the bottom, and floats upon the
furface, near the ffiores of the rivers, in thefe
foutnern climates, during the hot feafons. The

fir ores

TRAVELS IN

76

Ihores of this great river St. Juan are very level
and fhoal, extending, in fome places, a mile or two
into the river, betwixt the high land and the clear
waters of the river, which is fo level, as to be co-
vered not above a foot or two deep with water, and
at a little diftance appears as a green meadow, hav-
ing water-grafs and other amphibious vegetables
growing in the oozy bottom, and floating upon the
water.

Having a lively leading breeze, I kept as near
the Eaft fhore as poflible, often furprifed by the
plunging of alligators, and greatly delighted with
the pleafing profpeCt of cultivation, and the increafe
of human induftry, which frequently itruck my view
from the elevated, diftant fhores.

At night I ran in fhore, at a convenient harbour,
where I was received and welcomed by the gende-
man, who was agent for the plantation, and at whole
pleafant habitation, near the harbour, I took up my
quarters for the night.

This very civil man happened to be a perfon
with whom I had formerly been acquainted in St.
Auguftine ; and as he lived about twenty miles dif-
tant from it, I had good reafon to expect that he
would be a proper perfon to obtain intelligence
from, concerning the difturbances which were thought
ftill to fubfift, between the Lower Creeks and the
white inhabitants of Eaft Florida. Upon inquiry,
and converfation with him, I found my conjectures
on that head to have been well founded. My friend
informed me, that there had, but a few days fince,
been a council held at St. Auguftine, between the
governor of Eaft Florida and the chiefs of the
Lower Creeks. They had been delegated by their

towns.

NORTH AMERICA.

77

towns, to make inquiry concerning the late alarm
and depredations committed by the Indians upon
the traders ; which the nation being apprifed of, re-
commended thefe deputies to be chofen and fent,
as foon as poflible, in order to make reafonable con-
ceffions, before the flame, already kindled, fhould
fpread into a general war. The parties according-
ly met in St. Auguftine, and the affair was ami-
cably adjufted, to the fatisfadtion of both parties.
The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whofe young
warriors had committed the mifchief, promifed to
indemnify the traders for the lofs of their goods,
and requefted that they might return to their ftore-
houfes, with goods as ufual, and that they fhould be
fafe in their perfons and property. The traders at
this time were actually preparing to return. It ap-
peared, upon a ftridt inveftigation of fadts, that the
affair had taken its rife from the licentious condudt
of a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole na-
tion, who, imagining themfelves to have been ill
treated in their dealings with the traders (which
by the bye was likely enough to be true) took this
violent method of doing themfelves juflice. The
culprits however endeavoured to exculpate them-
felves, by aflerting, that they had no defign or in-
tention of robbing the traders of their effedts, but
meant it only as a threat; and that the traders, from
a confcioufnefs of their difhonefty, had been terri-
fied and fled, leaving their ftores, which they took
pofleflion of, to prevent their being totally loft.
This troublefome affair being adjufted, was very
agreeable news to me, as I could now, without ap-
prehenfions, afcend this grand river, and vifit its
delightful fhores, where and when I pleafed.

Bidding adieu to my obliging friend, I fpread my
fail to the favourable breeze, and by noon came to

a-breaft

travels in

73

a-breaft of fort Picolata j where, being defirous of
gaining yet farther intelligence, I landed ■, but, to
my difappointment, found the fort difmantled and
deferted. This fortrefs is very ancient, and was built
by the Spaniards. It is a fquare tower, thirty feet
high, inverted with a high wall, without baftions,
about breaft high, pierced with loop holes and fur-
rounded with a deep ditch. The upper ftory is
open on each fide, with battlements, Supporting a
cupola or roof: thefe battlements were formerly
mounted with eight four pounders, two on each
fide.

The works are conftrudted with hewn ftone, ce-
mented with lime. The ftone was cut out of quar-
ries on St. Anaftatius Ifland, oppofite St. Auguf-
tine : it is of a pale reddifh brick colour, and a tef-
taceous comport tion, confifting of fmall fragments of
fea-fhells and fine fand. It is well adapted to the
conftrudting of fortifications. It lies in horizontal
mafies in the quarry, and conftitutes the foundation
of that ifland. The caftle at St. Auguftine, and
molt of the buildings of the town, are of this ftone.

Leaving Picolata, I continued to afeend the ri-
ver. I obferved this day, during my progrefs up
the river, incredible numbers of fmall flying infedts,
of the genus termed by naturalifts Ephemera, con-
tinually emerging from the Ihallow water near fhore,
fome of them immediately taking their flight to
the land, whilft myriads crept up the grafs and
herbage, where remaining for a flrort time, as they
acquired fufficient ftrength, they took their flight
alfo, following their kindred to the main land.
This refurredtion from the deep, if I may fo ex-
prefs it, commences early in the morning, and ceafes
after the fun is up. At evening they are feen in

6 clouds

NORTH AMERICA. 79

clouds of innumerable millions, fwarming and wan-
toning in the ftill air, gradually drawing near the
river. They defcend upon its furface, and there
quickly end their day, after committing their eggs
to the deep ; which being for a little while tolled
about, enveloped in a vifcid fcum, are hatched, and
the little Larva defcend into their fecure and dark
habitation, in the oozy bed beneath, where they
remain, gradually increafing in fize, until the re-
turning fpring : they then change to a Nymph, when
the genial heat brings them, as it were, into exift-
ence, and they again arife into the world. This
fly leems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and
filh. In the morning, when they arife, and in the
evening, when drey return, the tumult is great in-
deed, and the furface of the water along fhore
broken into bubbles, or fpirted into the air, by the
contending aquatic tribes ; and fuch is the avidity
of the filh and frogs, that they fpring into the air
after this delicious prey.

Early in the evening, after a pleafant day’s voy-
age, I made a convenient and fafe harbour, in a little
lagoon, under an elevated bank, on the Weft fhore
of the river ; where I fhall entreat the reader’s pa-
tience, whilft we behold the clofing fcene of the
fhort-lived Ephemera, and communicate to each
other the refleftions which fo Angular an exhibition
might rationally fuggeft to an inquifltive mind.
Our place of obfervation is happily Atuated under
the prote&ing fhade of majeftic Live Oaks, glo-
rious Magnolias, and the fragrant Orange, open to
the view of the great river and ftill waters of the
lagoon juft before us.

At the cool eve s approach, the fweet enchanting

melody

TRAVELS IN

8o

melody of the feathered fongfters gradually ceafes,
and they betake themfelves to their leafy coverts
for lecurity and repofe.

Solemnly and (lowly move onward, to the ri-
ver’s (hore, the ruftling clouds of the Ephemera.
How awful the proceflion ! innumerable millions of
winged beings, voluntarily verging on to deftruc-
tion, to the brink of the grave, where they behold
bands of their enemies with wide open jaws, ready
to receive them. But as if infenfible of their dan-
ger, gay and tranquil each meets his beloved mate
in the (till air, inimitably bedecked in their new
nuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in their
varied wanton amorous chaces, bounding and flut-
tering on the odoriferous air ! With what peace,
love, and joy, do they end the laft moments of their
exiftence ?

I think we may aflert, without any fear of ex-
aggeration, that there are annually of thefe beau-
tiful winged beings, which rife into exiftence, and
for a few moments take a tranflent view of the glory
of the Creator’s works, a number greater than the
whole race of mankind that have ever exifted fince
the creation ; and that, only from the (hores of this
river. How many then muft have been produced
fince the creation, when we confider the number of
, large rivers in America, in comparifon with which,
this river is but a brook or rivulet.

The importance of the exiftence of thefe beau-
tiful and delicately formed little creatures, whofe
frame and organization are equally wonderful, more
delicate, and perhaps as complicated as thole of
the molt perfedl human being, is well worth a
few moments contemplation ; I mean particularly
r when

NORTH AMERICA.

8 I

when they appear in the fly ftate. And if we con-
fider the very fhort period of that flage of exiftence,
which we may reasonably fuppofe to .be the only
fpace of their life that admits of pleafure and enjoy-
ment, what a leflbn doth it not afford us of the vanity
of our own purfuits !

Their whole exiflence in this world is but one
complete year: and at leafl three hundred and fixty
days of that time they are in the form of an ugly
grub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under water,
and in this condition fcarcely locomotive, as each
Larva or grub has but its own narrow folitary cell,
from which it never travels or moves, but in a per-
pendicular progreflion of a few inches, up and down,
from, the bottom to the furface of the mud, in order
to intercept the pafling atoms for its food, and get a
morrientary refpiration of frefh air; and even here it
muft be perpetually on its guard, in order to efcape
the troops of fifh and fhrimps watching to catch it,
and from whom it has no efcape, but by inftantly
retreating back into its cell. One would be apt al-
molt to imagine them created merely for the food
of fifh and other animals.

Having refted very well during the night, I was
awakened in the morning early, by the cheering
converfe of the wild turkey-cocks (Meleagris occi-
dentalis) faluting each other, from the fun-bright-
ened tops of the lofty Cupreffus difticha and Mag-
nolia grandiflora. They begin at early dawn, and
continue till fun rife, from March to the laft of
April. The high forefts ring with the noife, like
the crowing of the domeftic cock, of thefe l'ocial
centinels; the watch- word being caught and repeat-
ed, from one to another, for hundreds of miles

G around ;

82

TRAVELS IN'

around; infomuch that the whole country is for an
hour or more in an univerfal fhout. A little after
fun-rife, their crowing gradually ceafes, they quit
their high lodging places, and alight on the earth,
where, expanding their filver bordered train, they
ftrut and dance round about the coy female, while
the deep forefts feem to tremble with their fhrill
noife.

This morning the winds on the great river were
high and againft me; 1 was therefore obliged to
keep in port a great part of the day, which I em-
ployed in little excurf;ons round about my encamp-
ment. The Live Oaks are of an aftonifhing mag-
nitude, and one tree contains a prodigious quantity
of timber; yet, comparatively, they are not tall, even
in thefe forells, where growing on ftrong land, in
company with others of great altitude (luch as
Fagus fylvatica, Liquidambar, Magnolia grandi-
fiora, and the high Palm tree) they ftrive while young
to be upon an equality with their neighbours, and
to enjoy the influence of the fun-beams, and of the
pure animating air. But the others at laft prevail,
and their proud heads are feen at a great diftance,
towering far above the reft of the foreft, which con-
fifts chiefly of this, fpecies of.oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus,
Acer rubrum, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus dentata,
Ilex aquifolium, Olea Americana, Morus, Gleditfia
triacanthus, and, I believe, a fpecies of Sapindus.
But the latter fpreads abroad his brawny arms, to
a great diftance. The trunk of the Live Oak is
generally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt,
and rifes ten or twelve feet ereft from the earth,
fome I have feen eighteen or twenty ; then di-
vides itfelf into three, four, or five great limbs,

which,

3

NORTH AMERICA.

83

which continue to grow in nearly an horizontal di-
rection, each limb forming a gentle curve, or arch,
from its bafe to its extremity. I have ftepped
above fifty paces, on a ftrait line, from the trunk of
one of thefe trees, to the extremity of the limbs.
It is evergreen, and the wood almoft incorruptible,
even in the open air. It bears a prodigious quantity
of fruit; the acorn is fmall, but fweet and agreeable
to the tafte when roafted, and is food for almoft all
animals. The Indians obtain from it a fweet oil,
which they ufe in the cooking of hommony, rice,
&c. ; and they alfo roaft it in hot embers, eating it
as we do chefnuts.

The wind being fair in the evening, I fat fail again,
and crofting the river, made a good harbour on the
Eaft fhore, where I pitched my tent for the night.
The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteen
feet perpendicular from its furface, but the afeent
gentle. Although I arrived here early in the even-
ing, I found fufEcient attractions to choofe it for my
lodging-place, and an ample field for botanical em-
ployment. It was a high, airy fituation, and com-
manded an extenfive and varied profpeCt of the river
and its fhores, up and down.

Behold yon promontory, projecting far into the
great river, beyond the ftill lagoon, half a mile dis-
tant from me : what a magnificent grove arifes

on its banks! how glorious the Palm! how ma-
jeftically ftands the Laurel, its head forming a per-
fect cone ! its dark green foliage feems filvered over
with milk-white flowers. They are fo large, as to
be diftindtly vifible at the diftance of a mile or more.
The Laurel Magnolias, which grow on this river,
are the moft beautiful and tall that I have any
where feen, unlefs we except thofe, which ftand

TRAVELS IN

84

on the banks of the Miflifippi ; yet even thefe muft
yield to thofe of St. Juan, in neatnefs of form,
beauty of foliage, and, I think, in largenels and
fragrance of flower. Their ufual height is about
one hundred feet, and fome gready exceed that.
The trunk is perfectly eredt, riling in the form of
a beautiful column, and fupporting a head like an
obtufe cone. The flowers are on the extremities
of the fubdivifions of the branches, in the center of
a coronet of dark green, fhining, ovate pointed
entire leaves: they are large, perfectly white, and
expanded like a full blown Rofe. They are poly-
petalous, conflfting of fifteen, twenty, or twenty-
five petals : thefe are of a thick coriaceous texture,
and deeply concave, their edges being fomewhat
reflex, when mature. In the center Hands the

young cone*; which is large, of a flefh colour,
and elegantly ftudded with a gold coloured lligma,
that by the end of fummer is greatly enlarged) and
in the autumn ripens to a large crimfon cone or
ftrobile, difclofing multitudes of large coral red
berries, which for a time hang down from them,
fulpended by a fine, white, filky thread, four, fix, or
even nine inches in length. The flowers of this tree
are the largeft and moll complete of any yet known:
when fully expanded, they are of fix, eight, and
nine inches diameter. The pericarpium and ber-
ries poflefs an agreeable fpicy fcent, and an aroma-
tic bitter tafle. The wood when feafoned is of a
ftraw colour, compaft, and harder and firmer than
that of the poplar.

It is really allonilhing to behold the Grape-Vines
in this place. From their bulk and llrength, one
would imagine, they were combined to pull down
thefe mighty trees to the earth j when, in faft,
6 amongll

NORTH AMERICA.

25

amongft other good purpofes, they ferve to uphold
them. They are frequently nine, ten, and twelve
inches in diameter, and twine round the trunks of
the trees, climb to their very tops, and then fpread
along their limbs, from tree to tree, throughout
the foreft : the fruit is but . fmall and ill tailed.
The Grape vines, with the Rhamnus volubilis, Big-
nonia radicans, Bignonia crucigera, and another
rambling lhrubby vine, which feems allied to the
Rhamnus, perhaps Zizyphus fcandens, feem to tie
the trees together with garlands and feftoons, and
form enchanting lhades. The long mols, fo called,
(Tillandfea ufneaoides), is a fingular and furprifing
vegetable production : it grows from the limbs and
twigs of all trees in thele fouthern regions, from
N. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe every
where within the tropics. Wherever it fixes itfelfj
on a limb, or branch, it fpreads into Ihort and in-
tricate divarications ; thefe in time colleCI dull,
wafted by the wind, which, probably by the moif-
ture it abforbs, foftens the bark and fappy part of
the tree, about the roots of the plant, and ren-
ders it more fit for it to eftablifh itfelfj and from
this fmall beginning, it increafes, by fending down-
wards and obliquely, on all Tides, long pendant
branches, which divide and fubdivide themfelves
ad infinitum. It is common to find the fpaces be-
twixt the limbs of lfarge trees, almoft occupied by
this plant: it alfo hangs waving in the wind, like
ftreamers, from the lower limbs, to the length of
fifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight,
more than feveral men together could carry ; and
in fome places, cart loads of it are lying on the
ground, torn off by the violence of the wind.
Any part of the living plant, torn off and caught
in the limbs of a tree, will prefently take root,

G 3 grdwj

TRAVELS IT/

86

grow, and increafe, in the fame degree of perfec-
tion, as if it had fprung up from the feed. When
frefh, cattle and deer will eat it in the winter fea-
fon. It feems particularly adapted to the purpofe
of fluffing mattrafles, chairs, faddles, collars, &c. ;
and for thefe purpofes, nothing yet known equals
it. The Spaniards in South America and the Weft-
Indies, work it into cables, that are faid to be very
ftrong and durable; but, in order to render it ufeful,
it ought to be thrown into fhallow ponds of water,
and expofed to the fun* where it foon rots, and the
outftde furry fubftance is diflblved. It is then taken
out of the water, and fpread to dry; when, after a
little beating and fhaking, it is fufficiently clean,
nothing remaining but the interior, hard, black,
elaftic filament, entangled together, and greatly re-
fembling horfe-hair,

The Zanthoxylum clava Herculis alfo grows here.
It is a beautiful fpreading tree, and much like a well
grown apple tree. Its aromatic berry is delicious
food for the little turtle dove; and epicures fay, that
it gives their flefh a fine flavour.

Having finifhed my obfervations, I betook myfelf
to reft; and when the plunging and roaring of the
crocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs, had ceafed,
I flept very well during the remainder of the night;
as a breeze from the river had fcattered the clouds
of mufquitoes that at firft infefted me.

It being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I fat
fail early, and faw, this day, vaft quantities of the
Piftia ftratiotes, a very Angular aquatic plant. It
aflbeiates in large communities, or floating iflands,
fome of them a quarter of a mile in extent, which
are impelled to and fro, as the wind and current

may

* '#

NORTH AMERICA.

87

may direct. They are firft produced on, or clofe
to the fhore, in eddy water, where they gradually
ipread themfelves into the river, forming moil de-
lightful green plains, feveral miles in length, and in
feme places a quarter of a mile in breadth. Thefe
plants are nourifhed and kept in their proper hori-
zontal fituadon, by means of long fibrous roots,
which defeend from the nether center, downwards,
towards the muddy bottom. Each plant, when full
grown, bears a general refemblance to a well grown
plant of garden lettuce, though the leaves are more
nervous, of a firmer contexture, and of a full green
colour, inclining to yellow. It vegetates on the fur-
face of the ftill Itagnant water; and in its natural
fituation, is propagated from feed only. In great
ftorms of wind and rain, when the river is fuddenly
railed, large mafles of thefe floating plains are bro-
ken loofe, and driven from the fhores, into the wide
water, where they have the appearance of iflets, and
float about, until broken to pieces by the winds and
waves; or driven again to Ihore, on fome diflant
coafl: of the river, where they again find footing,
and there, forming new colonies, Ipread and extend
themfelves again, until again broken up and dif-
perfed as before. Thefe floating iflands prefent a
very entertaining profpeCt; for although we behold
an aflemblage of the primary productions of nature
only, yet the imagination feems to remain in fuf-
penfe and doubt; as in order to enliven the delufion,
and form a molt picturefque appearance, we fee not
only flowery plants, clumps of Ihrubs, old weather-
beaten trees, hoary and barbed, with the long mof»
waving from their fnags, but we alfo fee them com-
pletely inhabited, and alive, with crocodiles, ferpents,
frogs, otters, crows, herons, curlews, jackdaws, &c.

G 4 There

88

TRAVELS IN

There Teems, in Ihort, nothing wanted but the ap-
pearance of a wigwam and a canoe to complete the
fcene.

Keeping along the Weft or Indian fhore, I Taw
balking, on the fedgy banks, numbers of alligators *,
Tome of them of an enormous fize.

The high forefts on this coaft now wore a grand
and fublime appearance; the earth rifing gradually
from the river weftward, by eafy fwelling ridges,
behind one another, lifting the diftant groves up in-
to the Ikies. The trees are of the lofty kind, as the
grand laurel magnolia, palma elata, liquidambar
ftyraciflua, fagus fylvatica, querci, juglans hiccory,
fraxinus, and others.

On my doubling a long point of land, the river
appeared furpriftngly widened, forming a large bay,
of an oval form, and feveral miles in extent. On the
W eft fide it was bordered round with low marfheSj
and inverted with a fwamp of Cyprefs, the trees
fo lofty, as to preclude the fight of the high-land
forefts beyond them; and thefe trees, having flat
tops, and all of equal height, feemed to be a green
plain, lifted up and fupported upon columns in the
air, round the Weft fide of the bay.

The cupreflus difticha Hands in the firft order of
North American trees. Its majeftic ftature is fur-
priling; and on approaching it, we are ftruck
with a kind of awe, at beholding the ftatelinefs of
the trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the Ikies,
and calling a wide Ihade upon the ground, as a
dark intervening cloud, which, for a time, excludes

* I have made ufe of rhc terms alligator and crocodile indlfcriminately for this
animal, alligator being the country name.

the

NORTH AMERICA.

89

the rays of the fun. The delicacy of its colour and
texture of its leaves, exceed every tiring in vege-
tation. It generally grows in the water, or in low
flat lands, near the banks of great rivers and lakes,
that are covered, great part of the year, with two
or three feet depth of water; and that part of the
trunk which is fubjedt to be under water, and four
or five feet higher up, is greatly enlarged by pro-
digious buttrefles, or pilafters, which, in full grown
trees, project out on every fide, to fuch a diftance,
that feveral men might eafily hide themfelves in
the hollows between. Each pilafter terminates un-
der ground, in a very large, ftrong, ferpentine
root, which ftrikes off, and branches every way,
juft under the furface of the earth: and from thefe
roots grow woody cones, called cyprefs knees, four,
five, and fix feet high, and from fix to eighteen
inches and two feet in diameter at their bafes. The
large ones are hollow, and ferve very well for bee-
hives; a fmall fpace of the tree itfelf is hollow,
nearly as high as the buttrefles already mentioned.
From this place, the tree, as it were, takes another
beginning, forming a grand ftraight column eighty
or ninety feet high, when it divides every w7ay
around into an extenfive flat horizontal top, like an
umbrella, where eagles have their fecure nefts, and
cranes and ftorks their temporary refting places ;
and what adds to the magnificence of their appear-
ance is the ftreamers of long mofs that hang from
the lofty limbs and float in the winds. This is
their majeftic appearance when Handing alone, in
large rice plantations, or thinly planted on the
banks of great rivers.

Parroquets are commonly feen hovering and flut-
tering on their tops : they delight to Ihell the

Balls,

TRAVELS IN

90

balls, its feed being their favourite food. The
trunks of thefe trees, when hallowed cut, make
large and durable pettiaugers and canoes, and af-
ford excellent fhingles, boards, and other timber,
adapted to every puipofe in frame buildings. When
the planters fell thefe mighty trees, they raile a
ftage round them, as high as to reach above the
buttrelfes ; on this ftage, eight or ten negroes
afcend with their axes, and fall to work round its
trunk. J have feen trunks of thefe trees that would
meafure eight, ten, and twelve feet in diameter,
for forty and fifty feet ftraight fhaft.

As I continued coafting the Indian fhore of this
bay, on doubling a promontory, I fuddenly faw be-
fore me an Indian lettlement^ or village. It was a
fine fituation, the bank rifing gradually from the
water. There were eight or ten habitations, in a
row, or ftreet, fronting the water, and about fifty
yards diftance from it. Some of the youth were
naked, up to their hips in the water, fifhing with
rods and lines ; whilft others, younger, were divert-
ing themfelves in ihooting frogs with bows and ar-
rows. On my near approach, the little children
took to their heels, and ran to fome women who
were hoeing corn; but the ftouter youth flood
their ground, and, fmiling, called to me. As I
palled along, I obferved fome elderly people re-
clined on fkins fpread on the ground, under the
cool fhade of fpreading Oaks and Palms, that were
ranged in front of their houfes: they arofe, and
eyed me as I paffed, but perceiving that 1 kept on
without flopping, they refumed their former po-
fition. They were civil, and appeared happy in
their fituation.

There was a large Orange grove at the upper

end

NORTH AMERICA, 91

end of their village ; the trees were large, care-
fully pruned, and the ground under them clean,
open, and airy. There feemed to be feveral hun-
dred acres of cleared land about the village ; a
confiderable portion of which was planted, chiefly
with corn (Zea), Batatas, Beans, Pompions, Squafhes
(Cucurbita verrucofa), Melons (Cucurbita citrullus),
Tobacco (Nicotiana), &c. abundantly fufficient for
the inhabitants of the village.

After leaving this village, and coafting a con-
fiderable cove of the lake, I perceived the river be-
fore me much contracted within its late bounds,
but ftill retaining the appearance of a wide and
deep river, both coafts bordered for feveral miles
with rich deep fwamps, well timbered with Cyprefs,
Afh, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyfla
aquatica, Nyfla tupilo, Gordonia laflanthus, Cory-
pha palma, Corypha pumila, Laurus Borbonia, &c.
The river gradually narrowing, I came in fight of
Charlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide,
but deep ; and as there was a confiderable current
againft me, I came here to an anchor. This town
was founded by Den. Rolle, efq. and is fituated
on a high bluff, on the eaft coaft, fifteen or twenty
feet perpendicular from the river, and is in length
half a mile, or more, upon its banks. The upper
ftratum of the earth confiits entirely of feveral fpe-
cies of frefh water Cochleae, as Coch. helix, Coch.
labyrinthus, and Coch. voluta ; the fecond, of ma-
rine lhells, as Concha mytulus, Cone, oftrea, Cone,
peeton, Elaliotis auris marina, Hal. patella, &c.
mixed with fea fand ; and the third, or lower flra-
tum, which was a little above the common level of
the river, of ho'rizontal mafies of a pretty hard
rock, compofed almoft entirely of the above fhell,
generally whole, and lying in every direction, pe-
trified

TRAVELS IN

9 2

trifled or cem’nted together, with fine white fand;
and thefe roc! were bedded in a ftratum of clay.
I law many fragments of the earthen ware of the
ancient inhabitants, and bones of animals, amongft
the fhells, and mixed with the earth, to a great
depth. This high fheliy bank continues, by gentle
parallel ridges, near a quarter of a mile back from
the river, gradually diminifbing to the level of the
fandy plains, which widen before and on each fide
eaftward, to a feemingly unlimited diftance, and
appear green and delightful, being covered with
grafs and the Corypha repens, and thinly planted
with trees of the long leaved, or Broom Pine, and
decorated with clumps, or coppices, of fioriferous,
evergreen, and aromatic Ihrubs, and enamelled
with patches of the beautiful lode Kalmea ciliata.
Thefe fheliy ridges have a vegetable furface of loofe
black mould, very fertile, which naturally produces
Orange groves, Live Oak, Laurus Borbonia, Pal-
ma elata, Carica papaya, Sapindus, Liquidambar,
Fraxinus exelfior, Morus rubra, Ulmus, Tilia,
Sambucus, Ptelea, Tallow-nut or Wild Lime, and
many others.

Mr. Rolle obtained from the crown a grant of
forty thoufand acres of land, in any part of Eaft
Florida, where the land was unlocated. It feems,
his. views were to take up his grant near St. Mark’s,
in the bay of Apalatchi ; and he fat fail from England,
with about one hundred families, for that place;
but by contrary winds, and ftrefs of weather, he
miffed his aim ; and being obliged to put into St.
Juan’s, he, with fome of the principal of his ad-
herents, afeended the river in a boat, and being
ltruck with its majefty, the grand fituations of its
banks, and fertility of its lands, and at the fame
time, confidering the extenfive navigation of the

river.

NORTH AMERICA.

93

j-ivcr, and its near vicinity to St. Auguftine, tho
capital and feat of government, he altered his views
on St. Mark’s, and fuddenly determined on this
place, where he landed his firft little colony. But
it feems, from an ill concerted plan in its infant
eftablifhment, negligence, or extreme parfimony
in fending proper recruits and other neceffaries,
together with a bad choice of citizens, the fetde-
ment by degrees grew weaker, and at length to-
tally fell to the ground. Thofe of them who
efcaped the conftant contagious fevers, fled the
dreaded place, betaking themfelves for fubfiftence
to the more fruitful and populous regions of Georgia
and Carolina.

The remaining old habitations are mouldering
to earth, except the manfion houfe, which is a
large frame building, of cyprefs wood, yet in
tolerable repair, and inhabited by an overfeer and
his family. There is alfo a blackfmith with his
fhop and'- family, at a fmall diftance from it. The
molt valuable diftridt belonging to Mr. Rolle’s
grant, lies on Dun’s lake, and on a little river,
which runs from it into St. Juan. This diftridf
confifts of a vaft body of rich fwamp land, fit for
the growth of rice, and fome very excellent high
land furrounding it. Large fwamps of excellent
rice land are alfo fituated on the Weft fhore of the
river, oppoflte to Charlotia.

The aborigines of America had a very great
town in this place, as appears from the great tu-
muli, and conical mounts of earth and fliells, and
other traces of a fettlement which yet remain.
There grew in the old fields on thefe heights, great
quantities of callicarpa, and of the beautiful fhrub
annona : the flowers of the latter are large, white,
and fweet fcented.

Having

TRAVELS IN

94

Having obtained from the people here diredlions
for difcovering the little remote ifland where the
traders and their goods were fecreted, which was
about feven miles higher up, I fat fail again, with
a fair wind, and in about one hour and an half
arrived at the defired place, having fortunately
taken the right channel of the river, amongft a
multitude of others, occafioned by a number of
low fwampy iflands. But I fhould have run by the
landing, if the centinels had not by chance feen
me drawing near them ; who perceiving that I
was a white man, ventured to hail me ; upon which
I immediately (truck fail, and came to. Upon my
landing they conduced me to their encampment,
forty or fifey yards from the river, in an almoft
impenetrable thicket. Upon my inquiry, they con-
firmed the accounts of the amicable treaty at St.
Auguftine, and in confequence thereof, they had
already removed great part of the goods to the
trading-houfe, which was a few miles higher up,
on the Indian fhore. They flowed me my cheft,
which had been carefully preferved, and upon in-
fpedtion I found every thing in good order. Having
learned from them, that all the effetts would, in a
few days time, be removed to die fcore-houfe, I
bid adieu to them, and in a little time arrived at
the trading-houfe, where I was received with great
politenefs, and treated, during a refidence of feve-
ral months, with the utmoft civility and friendlhip,
by Mr. C. M‘Latche, Meflrs. Spalding and Kelfall’s
agent.

The river almoft from Charlotia, and for near
twelve miles higher up, is divided into many chan-
nels by a great number of iflands.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

95

C HAP. IV.

Having refted myfelf a few days, and by ranging
about the neighbouring plains and groves, furround-
ing this pleafant place, pretty well recovered my
ftrength and fpirits, I began to think of planning my
future excurfions, at a diftance round about this
- centre. I found, from frequent conferences with Mr.
M'Latche, that I might with fafety extend my
journeys every way, and with prudence, even into
the towns and fettlements of the Indians, as they
were perfectly reconciled to us, and fincerely wifhed
for the renewal of our trade.

There were three trading-houfes to be eftablifhed
this fummer, each of which had its fupplies from
the ftore on St. Juan, where I now had my refi-
dence, and in which the produce or returns were
to centre annually, in order to be flipped for Sa-
vanna or Sunbury, and from thence to Europe.

One of thefe trading-houfes was to be fixed
about fixty miles higher up the river, from this place,
by the name of Spalding’s upper ftore ; a fecond at
Alachua, about fifty miles weft from the river St,
Juan; and a third at Talahafochte, a confiderable
town of the Siminoles, on the river Little St. Juan,
near the bay of Apalachi, about one hundred and
twenty miles diftance. Each of thefe places I de-
figned to vifit, before the return of the veffel to
Frederica in the autumn, that' I might avail my-
felf of an opportunity fo favourable for tranfport-
mg my collections fo far on their way towards
Charlefton.

The

TRAVELS IN

96

The company for Alachua were to fet off in
about a month; that to Little St. Juan, in July,
which fuited me exceedingly well, as I might make
my tour to the upper ftore diredlly, that part of the
country being at this feafon enrobed in its richefl
and gay ell apparel.

About the middle of May, every thing being in
readinefs to proceed up the river, we fat fail. The
traders with their goods in a large boat went a-
head, and myfelf in my little veffel followed them ;
and as their boat was large, and deeply laden, I
found that I could eafily keep up with them, and, if
I chofe, out-fail them ; but I preferred keeping them
company, as well for the fake of colledting what I
could from converfation, as on account of my
fafety in croffing the great lake, expe&ing to
return alone, and defcend the river at my own
leifure.

We had a pleafant day, the wind fair and mode-
rate, and ran by Mount Hope, fo named by my fa-
ther John Bartram, when he afcended this river,
about fifteen years ago. It is a very high fhelly bluff,
upon the little lake. It was at that time a fine
Orange grove, but now cleared and converted into a
large Indigo plantation, die property of an Englilh
gentleman, under the care of an agent. In the
evening w^e arrived at Mount Royal, w'here we came
to, and flayed all night; we were treated with
great civility, by a gentleman whole name was
Kean, anu who had been an Indian trader.

From this place we enjoyed a moft enchanting
profpefl of the great Lake George, through a grand
avenue, if I may fo term this narrow reach of the
river, which widens gradually for about two miles,

towards

NORTH AMERICA. 97

towards its entrance into the lake, fo ■ as to elude
the exa£t rules of perfpe&ive, and appears of an
equal width.

At about fifty yards di fiance from the landing
place, ftands a magnificent Indian mount. About
fifteen years ago I vifited this place, at which time
there were no fettlements of white people, but all
appeared wild and lavage ; yet in that uncultivated
ftate it poffefied an almoft inexpreflible air of gran-
deur, which was now entirely changed. At that
time there was a very confiderable extent of old
fields round about the mount ; there was alfo a
large orange grove, together with palms and live
oaks, extending from near the mount, along the
banks, downwards, all of which has fince been
cleared away to make room for planting ground.
But what greatly contributed towards completing
the magnificence of the feene, was a noble Indian
highway, which led from the great mount, on a
ftraight line, three quarters of a mile, firft through a
point or wing of the orange grove, and continuing
thence through an awful foreft of live oaks, it was
terminated by palms and laurel magnolias, on the
verge of an oblong artificial lake, which was on
the edge of an extenfive green level favanna. This
grand highway was about fifty yards wide, funk
a little below the common level, and the earth
■thrown up on each fide, making a bank of about
two feet high. Neither nature nor art could any
where prefent a more ftriking contraft, as you ap-
proached this favanna. The glittering water pond
played on the fight, through the dark grove, like a
brilliant diamond, on the bofom of the illumined
favanna, bordered with various flowery fhrubs and
plants j and as we advanced into the plain, the

H fight

TRAVELS IN

9s

fight was agreeably relieved by a diftant view of the
forefts, which partly environed the green expanfe on
the left hand, whilft the imagination was ftill flatter-
ed and entertained by the far diftant mifty points
of the furrounding forefts, which proje&ed into the
plain, alternately appearing and difappearing, mak-
ing a grand fweep round on the right, to the diftant
banks of the great lake. But that venerable grove
is now no more. All lias been cleared away and
planted with indigo, corn, and cotton, but fince de-
ferted : there was now fcarcely five acres of ground
under fence. It appeared like a defart to a great
extent, and terminated, on the land fide, by fright-
ful thickets, and open pine forefts.

It appears, however, that the late proprietor had
fome talte, as he has preferved the mount and this
little adjoining grove inviolate. The proipedt from
this ftation is To happily fituated by nature, as to
comprife at one view the whole of the fublime and
pleafing.

At the reanimating appearance of the rifing fun,
nature again revives j and I obey the cheerful fum-
mons of the gentle monitors of the meads and
groves.

Ye vigilant and faithful fervants of the Moft High !
ye who worftiip the Creator morning, noon, and
eve, in fimplicity of heart ! I hafte to join the uni-
versal anthem. My heart and voice unite with
yours, in fincere homage to the great Creator, the
univerfal fovereign.

O may I be permitted to approach the throne of
mercy ! May thefe my humble and penitent fuppli-
cations, amidft the univerfal Ihouts of homage from
thy creatures, meet with thy acceptance !

And

NORTH AMERICA.

99

And although I am fenfible, that my fervice can-
not increafe or diminifh thy glory, yet it is pleafing
to thy fervant to be permitted to found thy praife;
for, O fovereign Lord ! we know that thou alone
art perfeft, and worthy to be worihipped. O uni-
versal Father ! look down upon us, we befeech
thee, with an eye of pity and companion, and grant
that univerfal peace and love may prevail in the
earth, even that divine harmony which fills the hea-
vens, thy glorious habitation !

And, O fovereign Lord ! fince it has pleafed thee
to endue man with power and pre-eminence here
on earth, and eftablilh his dominion over all crea-
tures, may we look up to thee, that our under-
ftanding may be fo illuminated with wifdom, and
our hearts warmed and animated with a due fenfe
of charity, that we may be enabled to do thy will,
and perform our duty towards thole fubmitted to
our fervice and proteftion, and be merciful to them,
even as we hope for mercy.

• Thus may we be worthy of the dignity and fu-
periority of the high and diftinguifhed ftation in
which thou haft placed us here on earth.

The morning being fair, and having a gentle fa-
vourable gale, we left our pleafant harbour, in pur-
fuit of our defired port.

Now as we approach the capes, behold the little
ocean of Lake George, the diftant circular coaft
gradually rifing to view, from his mifty fringed
horizon. I cannot entirely fupprefs my apprehen-
fionf? of danger. My veftel at once diminifhed to
a nut-lhell on the fwelling feas, and at the dif-
tance of a few miles, muft appear to the furprifed

H 2 obferver

1GO TRAVELS IN

obfervcr as fomc aquatic animal, at intervals emerg-
ing from its furface. This lake is a large and
beautiful piece of water; it is a dilatation of the
river St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, and
rrencrally about fifteen or twenty feet deep, except-
ing at the entrance of the river, where lies a bar,
which carries eight or nine feet water T ire lake
is beautified (With two or three fertile lflands. 11
firft lies in the bay, as we afeend into > the lake, ne
the weft coaft, about S. W from Moun Roya ,
from whence it appears to form part of the welt
(here of the bay. The fecond .(land leans to nde
on the lake before us as we enter, about a mile with-
in it. This ifland is about two miles in breadth,
and three quarters of a mile where broadeft, moft^
hicrh land, well timbered and fertile. T he third and
fall lies at the fouth end of the lake, and near the
entrance of the riven it is nearly circular, and
contains but a few acres of land, the eaith high an
fertile, and almoft an entire orange grove, witn
grand magnolias and palms.

Soon after entering the lake, the wind blew fo
brifkly from the weft, with thunder- clouds gather-
ing upon the horizon, that we were obliged to feek
a fireker from the approaching tempeft on the large
beautiful ifland before mentioned; where, having
gained the fouth promontory, we met with an ex-
tent harbour, in which we continued the remain-
ing part of the day and the night. This circym
ftance gave me an opportunity to explore the great-

eft part of it.

This ifland appears, from obvious veftiges, ®
hive been once the chofen reftdence of an Indian
prince, there bang to this day evtdent remaim of

NORTH AMERICA.

IOI

a large town of the Aborigines. It was fituated on
an eminence, near the banks of the lake, and com-
manded a comprehenfive and charming profpeft of
the waters, iflands, eaft and weft Ihores of the
lake, the capes, the bay, and Mount Royal; and
to the fouth the view is in a manner infinite, where
the Aries and waters feem to unite. On the fite of
this ancient town, ftands a very pompous Indian
mount, or conical pyramid of earth, from which
runs in a ftrait line a grand avenue or Indian high-
way, through a magnificent grove of magnolias,
live oaks, palms, and orange trees, terminating
at the verge of a large green level favanna. This
ifiand appears to have been well inhabited, as is
very evident, from the quantities of fragments of
Indian earthenware, bones of animals and other re-
mains, particularly in the fhelly heights and ridges
all over the ifland. There are no habitations at
prefent on the ifiand, but a great number of deer,
turkeys, bears, wolves, wild cats, fquirrels, racoons,
and opoftums. The bears are invited here to par-
take of the fruit of the orange tree, which they are
immoderately fond of; and both they and turkeys
are made extremely fat and delicious, from their
feeding on the fweet acorns of the live oak.

There grow on this ifland many curious flirubs,
particularly a beautiful fpecies of lantana (perhaps
lant. camerara, Lin. Syft. Veget. p. 473). It
grows in coppices in old fields, about five or fix
feet high, the branches adorned with rough fer-
rated leaves, which fit oppofite, and the twigs ter-
minated with umbelliferous tufts of orange coloured
blofioms, which are fucceeded by a duller of fmall
blue berries : the flowers are of various colours, on
the fame plant, and even in the fame duller, as

B 3 crimfon.

102

TRAVELS IN

crimfon, fcarlet, orange and golden yellow : the
whole plant is of a moil agreeable (cent. The
orange-flowered (hrub Hibifcus is alfo confpicuoufly
beautiful (perhaps Hibifc. fpinifexof Linn.) It grows
five or fix feet high, and fubramous. The branches
are divergent, and furnifhed with cordated leaves,
which are crenated. The flowers are of a mode-
rate fize, and of a deep fplendid yellow. The pe-
ricarpii are fpiny. I alfo law a new and beautiful
palmated leaved convolvulus *. This vine rambles
over the fhrubs, and ftrolls about on the ground ;
its leaves are elegandy finuated, of a deep grals
green, and fit on long petioles. The flowers are
- very large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate co-
lour, having a deep crimfon eye.

There are fome rich fwamps on the fhores of the
ifland, and thefe are verged on the outfide with
large marfhes, covered entirely with tall graft,
rulhes, and herbaceous plants ; among!! thefe are
feveral lpecies of Hibifcus, particularly the hibif-
cus coccineus. This moll (lately of all herbaceous
plants grows ten or twelve feet high, branching
regularly, fo as to form a (harp cone. Thefe
branches alfo divide again, and are embellifhed
with large expanded crimfon flowers. I have feen
this plant of the fize and figure of a beautiful little
tree, having at once feveral hundred of thefe fplen-
did flowers, which may be then feen at a great
diftance. They continue to flower in fuccefiion
all fummer and autumn, when the Hems wither
and decay ; but the perennial root fends forth new
ftems the next fpring, and fo on for many years.
Its leaves are large, deeply and elegantly finuated,
having fix or feven very narrow dentated feg-

:i- Convol. difleftus.

ments ■,

NORTH AMERICA. JOJ

ments ; the furface of the leaves, and of the whole
plant, is fmooth and polifhed, Another fpecies
of hibifcus, worthy of particular notice, is like-
wife avtall flouri filing plant ; feveral ftrong Items
iirife from a root, five, fix, and feven feet high,
embellifhed with ovate lanciolate leaves, covered
with a fine down on their nether furfaces : the
flowers are very large, and of a deep incarnate co-
lour.

The laft we fliall now mention feems nearly al-
lied to the alcea ; the flowers are a fize lefs than
the hibifcus, and of a fine damafk rofe colour, and
are produced in great profufion on the tall pyra-
midal items.

The lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here,
and has a molt fplendid appearance amidft extenfive
meadows of the golden corymbous jacobea (fenecio
jacobea) and odorous pancratium.

Having finiihed my tour on this princely ifiand,
I prepared for repofe. A calm evening had fuc-
eeeded the itormy day. The late tumultuous winds
had now ceafed, the face of the lake had become
placid, and the ikies ferene; the balmy winds
breathed the animating odours of the groves around
me ; and as I reclined on the elevated banks of the
lake, at the foot of a live oak, I enjoyed the prof-
pe£t of its wide waters, its fringed coafts, and the
diilant horizon.

The fquadrcns of aquatic fowls, emerging out
of the water, and iiaftening to their leafy coverts on
fhore, clofed the varied fcenes of the pail day. I
was lulled afleep by the mixed founds of the wearied

H 4 fijrf.

TRAVELS IN

IO4

furf, lapfing on the hard beaten fhore, and the ten-
der warblings of the painted nonpareil and other
winged inhabitants of the grove.

At the approach of day the dreaded voice of the
alligators (hook the ifle, and refounded along the
neighbouring coafts, proclaiming the appearance of
the glorious fun. I arofe, and prepared to accom-
plifh my daily tafk. A gentle favourable gale led
us out of the harbour: we failed acrofs the lake,
and towards evening entered the river on the op-
pofite fouth coaft, where we made a pleafant and
fa fe harbour, at a fhelly promontory, the eaft cape
of the river on that fide of the lake. It is a moft
defirable fituation, commanding a full view of the
lake. The cape oppofite to us was a vaft cyprefs
fwamp, environed by a border of graffy marfhes,
which were projected farther into the lake by float-
ing fields of the bright green piflia ftratoites, which
rofe and fell alternately with the waters. Juft to
leeward of this point, and about half a mile in the
lake is the little round ifland already mentioned.
But let us take notice of our harbour and its envi-
rons : it is a beautiful little cove, juft within the
fandy point, which defends it from the beating
furf of the lake. From a fhelly bank, ten or
twelve feet perpendicular from the water, we en-
tered a grove of live oaks, palm, magnolia, and
orange trees, which grow amongft fhelly hills, and
low ridges, occupying about three acres of ground,
comprehending the ifthmus, and a part of the penin-
fula, which joins it to the graffy plains. This en-
chanting little foreft is partly encircled by a deep
creek, a branch of the river, that has its fource in
the high forefts of the main, fouth eaft from us;
and winds through the extenfive graffy plains which

furround

NORTH AMERICA.

lO^T

furroilnd this peninfula, to an almoft infinite dis-
tance, and then unites its waters with thofe of the
river, in this little bay which formed our harbour.
This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is almoff
covered with the leaves of the nymphsea nelumbo:
its large fweet-lcented yellow flowers are lifted up
two or three feet above the furface of the water,
each upon a green ftarol, reprefenting the cap of
liberty.

The evening drawing on, and there being no
convenient landing place for feveral miles higher up
the river, we concluded to remain here all night.
Whilft my fellow travellers were employing them-
felves in collefting fire-wood, and fixing our camp,
I improved the opportunity, in reconnoitering our
ground; and taking my fufee with me, I penetrated
the grove, and afterwards entered fome almoft un^
limited Savannas and plains, which were abfolutely
enchanting; they had been lately burnt by the In-
dian hunters, and had juft now recovered their verpal
verdure and gaiety.

How happily Situated is this retired fpot of earth!
What an elyfium it is ! where the wandering Simi-
nole, the naked red warrior, roams at large, and
after the vigorous chafe retires from the Scorching
heat of the meridian fun. Here he reclines, and
repofes under the odoriferous Shades of Zanthoxy-
lon, his verdant couch guarded by the Deity; Li-
berty, and the Mufes, infpiring him with wifdom
and valour, whilft the balmy zephyrs fan him to
Sleep.

Seduced by thefe Sublime enchanting Scenes of
primitive nature, and thefe vifions of terreftrial hap-
jpincfs, I had roved far away from Cedar Point, but

awakening-

TRAVELS IN

io 6

awakening to my cares, I turned about, and in the
evening regained our camp.

On my return, I found i'ome of my companions
fifhing for trout, round about the edges of the float-
ing nymphaea, and not unfuccefsfully, having then '
caught more than fufficient for us all. As the me-
thod of taking thefe Afti is curious and Angular, I
Jfhall juft mention it.

They are taken with a hook and line, but with-
out any bait. Two people are in a little canoe, one
fitting in the ftern to fteer, and the other near the
bow, having a rod ten or twelve feet in length, to
one end of which is tied a ftrong line, about twenty
inches in length, to which are faftened three large
hooks, back to back. Thefe are Axed very fecurely,
and covered with die white hair of a deer’s tail,
ftireds of a red garter, and fome particoloured fea- <
thers, all which form a tuft, or taflfel, nearly as
large as one’s Aft, and entirely cover and conceal
the hooks : this is called a bob. The fteerfman
paddles foftly, and proceeds (lowly along fliore,
keeping the boat parallel to it, at a diftance juft
fufhcient to admit the ftflierman to reach the edge
of the floating weeds along fhore; he now ingeni- *
oufly fwings the bob backwards and forwards, juft
above the furface, and fometimes tips the >vater
with it; when the unfortunate cheated trout in-
ftantly fprings from under the weeds, and feizes the
fuppofed prey. Thus he is caught without a pofli- ;
bility of efcape, unlefs he break the hooks, line, or
rod, which he, however, fometimes does by dint of
ftrcngth; but, to prevent this, the ftfherman ufed
to the fport is careful not to raife the reed luddenly
up, but jerks it inftantly backwards, thcfa • fteadily
drags the flurdy reluctant flfli to the fide of the

canoe?

NORTH AMERICA.

107

canoe, and with a fudden upright jerk brings him
into it.

The head of this fifh makes about one third of
his length, and confequently the mouth is very large:
birds, fifh, frogs, and even ferpents, are frequently
found in its ftomach.

The trout is of a lead colour, inclining to a deep
blue, and marked with tranfverfe waved lifts, of a
deep flate colour, and when fully grown, has a call
of red or brick colour. The fins, with the tail,
which k large and beautifully formed, are of a light
reddiih purple, or flefh colour ; the whole body is
covered with large l'cales. But what is moft lin-
gular, this fifh is remarkably ravenous; nothing
living that he can feize upon efcapes his jaws ; and
the opening and extending of the branchioftega, at
the moment he rifes to the furface to feize his prey,
clifeovering his bright red gills through the tranf-
parent waters, give him a very terrible appearance.
Indeed it may be obferved, that all filh of prey have
this opening and covering of the gills very large, in
order to difeharge the great quantity of water which
they take in at their mouth, when they ftrike at their
prey. This fifh is nearly cuneiform, the body ta-
pering gradually from the bread; to the tail, and
lightly compreffed on each fide. They frequently
weigh fifteen, twenty, and thirty pounds, and are
delicious food,

My companion, the trader, being defirous of
Crofting the river to the oppofite fhore, in hopes of
getting a turkey, I chofe to accompany him, as it
offered a good opportunity to obferve the natural
productions of thofe rich fwamps and idands of
tile river. Having crofted the river, which is here

five

travels in

io8

five or fix hundred yards wide, we entered a narrow
channel, which, after a Terpentine courfe for fomc
miles, rejoins the main river again, above; form-
ing a large fertile ifland, of rich low land. We
landed on this ifland, and foon faw a fine roebuck *
at fome diftance from us, who appeared leader of a
company of deer that were feeding near him on the
verge of a green meadow. My companion parted
from me in purfuit of the deer, one way; and I,
obferving a flock of turkeys at fome diftance, on
the other, directed my fteps towards them, and
with great caution got near them ; when, Angling
out a large cock, and being juft on the point of
firing, I obferved that feveral young cocks were af-
frighted, and in their language warned the reft
to be on their guard againft an enemy, whom I
plainly perceived was induftrioufly making his fub-
tile approaches towards them, behind the fallen
trunk of a tree, about twenty yards from me. This
cunning fellow-hunter was a large fat wild cat
(lynx) : he faw me, and at times feemed to watch
my motions, as if determined to feize the delicious
prey before me. Upon which I changed my objedt,
and levelled my piece at him. At that inftant, my
companion, at a diftance, alfo difcharged his piece
at the deer, the report of which alarmed the flock
of turkeys; and my fellow-hunter, the cat, fprang
over the log and. trotted off. The trader alfo mi (fed
his deer: thus we foiled each other. By this time
it being near night, we returned to camp, where
having a delicious meal ready prepared for our hun-
gry ftomachs, we fat down in a circle round our
wholefome repaft.

How fupremely blefled were our hours at this

* Ccrvus fylvaticus. The American deer.

time !

NORTH AMERICA.

IO^

time! plenty of delicious and healthful food, our
ftomachs keen, with contented minds; under no
controul, but what reafon and ordinate paflions dic-
tated, far removed from the feats of ftrife.

Our fituation was like that of the primitive ftate
of man, peaceable, contented, and fociable. The
fimple and neceffary calls of nature being fatisfied,
we were altogether as brethren of one family, ftran-
gers to envy, malice, and rapine.

The night being over we arofe, and purfued our
courfe up the river; and in the evening reached the
trading-houfe, Spalding’s upper ftore, where I took
up my quarters for feveral weeks.

• On our arrival at the upper ftore, we found it
occupied by a white trader, who had for a compa-
nion a very handfome Siminole young woman. Her
father, who was a prince, by the name of the White
Captain, was an old chief of the Siminoles, and with
part of his family, to the number of ten or twelve,
was encamped in an orange grove near the ftores,
having lately come in from a hunt.

This white trader, foon after our arrival, deli-
vered up the goods and ftore -houfes to my compa-
nion, and joined his father-in-law’s camp, and loon
after went away into the forefts on hunting and tra-
ding amongft the flying camps of Siminoles.

He is at this time unhappy in his connexions with
his beautiful favage. It is but a few years fince he
came here, I think from North Carolina, a ftout
genteel well-bred man, adtive, and of a heroic and
amiable diipofition; and by his induftry, honeftyj
and engaging manners, had gained the aftedtions of
the Indians, and foon made a little fortune by traffic

with

IIO TRAVELS IN

with the Siminoles : when unfortunately meeting
with this little charmer, they were married in the
Indian manner. He loves her fmcerely, as fhe pof-
feffes every perfection in her perfon to render a man
happy. Her features are beautiful, and manners
engaging. Innocence, modefty, and love, appear
to a ftranger in every aftion and movement; and
thefe powerful graces fhe has fo artfully played upon
her beguiled and vanquifhed lover, and unhappy
Have, as to have already drained him of all his pof-
fefTions, which fhe difhoneftly diftributes amongft
her favage relations. He is now poor, emaciated,
and half di ft rafted, often threatening co fhoot her,
and afterwards put an end to his own life; yet he has
not refolution even to leave her; but now endea-
vours to drown and forget his borrows in deep
draughts of brandy. Her father condemns her dif-
honeft and cruel conduft.

Thefe particulars were related to me by my old
friend the trader, direftly after a long conference
which he had with the White Captain on the fub-
jeft, his fon-in-law being prefent. The feene was
affefting; they both fhed tears plentifully. My
reafons for mentioning this affair, fo foreign to my
bufinefs, was to exhibit an inftance of the power of
beauty in a favage, and her art and finefte in im-
proving it to her private ends. It is, however,
but doing juftice to the virtue and moral conduft of
the Siminoles, and American aborigines in general,
to obferve, that the charafter of this woman is
condemned and detefted by her own people of both
lexes; and if her hufband ftiould turn her away,
according to the cuftoms and ulages of thefe people,
fire would not get a hufband again, as a divorce
feldom takes place but in confequence of a delibe-
rate

NORTH AMERICA.

I I I

rate impartial trial, and public condemnation, and
then Hie would be looked upon as a harlot.

Such is the virtue of thefe untutored favages:
but I am afraid this is a common phrafe epithet,
having no meaning, or at leaft improperly applied ;
for thefe people are both well tutored and civil ; and
it is apparent to an impartial obferver, who refides
but a little time amongft them, that it is from the
moll delicate fenfe of the honour and reputation of
their tribes and families, that their laws and culloms
receive their force and energy. This is the divine
principle which influences their moral condudt, and
folely preferves their conftitution and civil govern-
ment in that purity in which drey are found to pre-
vail amongft them.

CHAP.

1 1 2

TRAVELS rtf

CHAP. V.

Being defirous of continuing my travels and ob-
fervations higher up the river, and having an invi-
tation from a gentleman who was agent for, and
refident at, a large plantation, the property of an
Englilh gentleman, about fixty miles higher up, I
refolved to purfuc my refearches to that place ; and
having engaged in my fervice a young Indian, ne-
phew to the White Captain, he agreed to affift me
in working my veffel up as high as a certain bluff,
where I was, by agreement, to land him, on the
Weft or Indian fhore, whence he defigned to go in
queft of the camp of the White Trader, his relation.

Provifions and all neceffaries being procured,
and the morning pleaCnt, we went on board and
flood up the river. We pafled for feveral miles on
the left, by iflands of high fwamp land, exceedingly
fertile, their banks for a good diftance from the wa-
ter, much higher than the interior part, and diffi-
dently fo to build upon, and be out of the reach of
inundations. They confift of a loofe blacdc mould,
with a mixture of land, fhells, and diffolved vege-
tables. The oppofite Indian coaft is a perpendicu-
lar bluff, ten or twelve feet high, confiding of a
black iandy earth, mixed with a large proportion of
fhefts, chiefly various fpecies of frefh water cochleae
and mytuli. Near the river, on this high fhore,
grew corypha palma, magnolia grandiflora, live
oak, callicarpa, myrica cerifera, hybifcus fpinifex,
and the beautiful evergreen fhrub called wild lime
or tallow nut. This laft fhrub grows fix or eight
feet high, many ered ftems fpring from a root;

NORTH AMERICA. II 3

the leaves are lanceolate and entire, two or three
inches in length and one in breadth, of a deep green
colour, and polifhed ; at the foot of each leaf grows
a ftiff fharp thorn; the flowers are fmall and in
clufters, of a greenifh yellow colour, and fweet
fcented ; they are fucceeded by a large oval fruit,
of the fhape and flze of an ordinary plumb, of a
fine yellow colour when ripe ; a foft fweet pulp co-
vers. a nut which has a thin fhell, encloflng a white
kernel fomewhat of the confidence and tafte of the
fweet almond, but more oily and very much like
hard tallow, which induced my father when he firft
obferved it, to call it the tallow-nut.

At the upper end of this bluff" is a fine orange
grove. Here my Indian companion requefted me
to fet him on fhore, being already tired of rowing
under a fervid fun, and having for fome time inti-
mated a diflike to his fituation. I readily complied
with his defire, knowing the impoflibility of com-
pelling an Indian againft his own inclinations, or
even prevailing upon him by reafonable arguments,
when labour is in the queftion. Before my veflel
reached the fhore, he fprang out of her and landed,
when uttering a fhrill and terrible whoop, he bound-
ed off" like a roebuck, and I loft fight of him.
I at firft apprehended, that as he took his gun with
him, he intended to hunt for fome game and return
to me in the evening. The day being exce (lively
hot and fultry, I concluded to take up my quarters
here until next morning.

The Indian not returning this morning, I fat fail
alone. The coafts on each fide had much the fame
appearance as already deferibed. The palm trees
here feem to be of a different fpecies from the cabbage
tree ; their ftraight trunks are fixty, eighty, or ninety

I , ' feet

TRAVELS IN

I'4

feet high, with a beautiful taper, of a bright alb co-
lour, until within fix or feven feet of the top, where
it is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb of
rich green plumed leaves : I have meafured the ftem
of thefe plumes fifteen feet in length, befides the
plume, which is nearly of the fame length.

The little lake, which is an expanfion of the ri-
ver, now appeared in view; on the eaft fide are ex-
tenfive marfhes, and on the other, high forefts and
orange groves, and then a bay, lined with vaft cy-
prefs fwamps, both coafts gradually approaching
each other, to the opening of the river again, which
is in this place about three hundred yards wide. Even-
ing now drawing on, I was anxious to reach fome high
bank of the river, where I intended to lodge ; and
agreeably to my wilbes, I foon after difcovered on
the weft fhore a little promontory, at the turning
of the river, contracting it here to about one hun-
dred and fifty yards in width. This promontory is
a peninfula, containing about three acres of high
ground, and is one entire orange grove, with a few
live oaks, magnolias and palms. Upon doubling
the point, I arrived at the landing, which is a cir-
cular harbour, at the foot of the bluff, the top of
which is about twelve feet high ; the back of it is
a large cyprefs fwamp, that fpreads each way, the
right wing forming the weft coaft of the little lake,
and the left ftretching up the river many miles, and en-
compaffing a vaft fpace of low graffy marlbes. From
this promontory, looking eaftward acrofs the river,
I beheld a landfcape of low country, unparalleled
as I think; on the left is the eaft coaft of the little
lake, which I had juft paffed ; and from the orange
bluff at the lower end, the high forefts begin, and
increafe in breadth from the fhore of the lake, mak-
S ing

NORTH AMERICA*

ing a circular fweep to the right, and contain
many hundred thoufand acres of meadow ; and this
grand fweep of high foreFs encircles, as I appre-
hend, at lead twenty miles of thefe green fields,
interfperfed with hommocks or iilets of evergreen
trees, where the fovereign magnolia and lordly
palm ftand confpicuous. The iflets are high fhelly
knolls, on the Tides of creeks or branches of the
river, which wind about and drain off the fuper-
abundant waters that cover thefe meadows during
the winter feafon.

The evening was temperately cool and calm.
The crocodiles began to roar and appear in uncom-
mon numbers along the fhores and in the river. I
fixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmoft
projeftion of the promontory, under the fhelter of
a large live oak, which flood on the higheft part
of the ground, and but a few yards from my boat.
From this open, high fituation, I had a free prof-
peft of the river, which was a matter of no trivial
confideration to me, having good reafon to dread
the fubtle attacks of the alligators, who were crowd-
ing about my harbour. Having colleiled a good
quantity of wood for the purpofe of keeping up a
light and. fmoke during the night, I began to think
of preparing my fupper, when, upon examining my
Fores, I found but a fcanty provifion. I thereupon
determined, as the moF expeditious way of Apply-
ing my necelfities, to take my bob and try for fome
trout. About one hundred yards above my har-
bour began a cove or bay of the river, out of which
opened a large lagoon. The mouth or entrance
from the river to it was narrow, but the waters
foon after fpread and formed a little lake, extend-
ing into the marfhes : its entrance and fhores with-

I 2

in

TRAVELS IN

I I 6

in I obferved to be verged with floating lawns of
the pidia and nymphea and other aquatic plants;
thefe I knew were excellent haunts for trout.

The verges and iflets of the lagoon were ele-
gantly embellifhed with flowering plants and Ihrubs;
the laughing coots with wings half fpread were trip-
ping over the little coves and hiding themfelves in
the tufts of grafs ; young broods of the painted
fummer teal, lkimming the dill furface of the waters,
and following the watchful parent unconfcious of
danger, were frequently furprifed by the voracious
trout; and he, in turn, as often by the fubtle
greedy alligator. Behold him rudiing forth from
the flags and reeds. His enormous body fwells.
His plaited tail brandilhed high, floats upon the
lake. The waters like a cataraid defcend from his
opening jaws. Clouds of l'rnoke iflue from his di-
lated nodrils. The earth trembles with his thunder.
When immediately from the oppodte coad of the
lagoon, emerges from the deep his rival champion.
They fuddenly dart upon each other. The boiling
furface of the lake marks their rapid courfe, and
a terrific confli£t commences. They now fink to
the bottom folded together in horrid wreaths. The
water becomes thick and difcoloured. Again they
rife, their jaws clap together, re-echoing through
the deep furrounding foreds. Again they fink, when
the conted ends at the muddy bottom of the lake,
and the vanquifhed makes a hazardous efcape, hid-
ing himfelf in the muddy turbulent waters and fedge
on a didant fliore. The proud vi£tor exulting re-
turns to the place of aftion. The fliores and foreds
refound his dreadful roar, together with the triumph-
ing fiiouts of the plaited tribes around, witnelfes
of the horrid combat.

My

NORTH AMERICA.

”7

My apprehenfions were highly alarmed after be-
ing a fpedtator of fo dreadful a battle. It was ob-
vious that every delay would but tend to encreafe
my dangers and difficulties, as the fun was near
letting, and the alligators gathered around my har-
bour from all quarters. From thefe confiderations
I concluded to be expeditious in my trip to the la-
goon, in order to take fome fiffi. Not thinking it
prudent to take my fufee with me, left I might
lofe it overboard in cafe of a battle, which I had
every reafon to dread before my return, I therefore
furniffied myfelf with a club for my defence, went
on board, and penetrating the firll line of thofe
which furrounded my harbour, they gave way ; but
being purfued by feveral very large ones, I kept
ftriftly on the watch, and paddled with all my might
towards the entrance of the lagoon, hoping to be
ffieltered there from the multitude of my afiailants ;
but ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attack-
ed on all fides, feveral endeavouring to overfet the
canoe. My fituation now became precarious to the
laft degree : two very large ones attacked me clofe -
ly, at the fame inftant, rufliing up with their heads
and part of their bodies above the water, roaring
terribly and belching floods of water over me. They
ftruck their jaws together fo clofe to my ears, as
almoft to ftun me, and I expefted every moment to
be dragged out of the boat and inftantly devoured.
But I applied my weapons fo eftedlually about me,
though at random, that I was fo fuccefsful as to
beat them off a little; when, finding that they de-
figned to renew the battle, I made for the ffiore,
as the only means left me for my prefervation; for,
by keeping clofe to it, I ffiould have my enemies on
one fide of me only, whereas I was before furround-
ed by them; and there was a probability, if puffied

1 3 to

TRAVELS IN

i iS

to the laft extremity, of hiving myfelf, by jumping
out of the canoe on fhore, as it is eafy to outwalk,
them on land, although comparatively as lwift as
lightning in the water. I found this laft expedient
alone could fully anfwer my expectations, for as
foon as I gained the fhore, they drew off and kept
aloof. This was a happy relief, as my confidence
was, in fome degree, recovered by it. On recol-
lecting myfelf, I difcovered that I had almoft reach-
ed the entrance of the lagoon, and determined to
venture in, if pofiible, to take a few fifh, and then
return to my harbour, while day-light continued;
for I could now, with caution and refolution, make
my way with fafety along fhore ; and indeed there
was no other way to regain my camp, without leav-
ing my boat and making my retreat through the
marfhes and reeds, which, if I could even effeCt,
would have been in a manner throwing myfelf
away, for then there would have been no hopes of
ever recovering my bark, and returning in fafety
to any fettlements of men. I accordingly proceed-
ed, and made good my entrance into the lagoon,
though not without oppofition from the alligators,
who formed a line acrofs the entrance, but did not
purfue me into it, nor was I molefled by any there,
though there were fome very large ones in a cove
at the upper end. I foon caught more trout than
I had prefent occafion for, and the air was too hot
and fultry to admit of their being kept for many
hours, even though falted or barbecued. I now
prepared for my return to camp, which I fucceeded
in with but little trouble, by keeping clofe to
the fhore ; yet I was oppoled upon re-entering the
river out of the lagoon, and purfued near to my
landing (though not clofely attacked), particularly
by an old daring one, about twelve feet in length,

who

NORTH AMERICA.

rI9

who kept clofe after me ; and when I ftepped on
fhore and turned about, in order to draw up my
canoe, he rufhed up near my feet, and lay there for
fome time, looking me in the face, his head and
Jhoulders out of water. I refolved he fhould pay
for his temerity, and having a heavy load in my fu-
fee, I ran to my camp, and returning with my piece,
found him with his foot on the gunwale of the boat,
in fearch of fifh. On my coming up he withdrew
fullenly and flowly into the water, but foon returned
and placed himfelf in his former pofition, looking
at me, and feeming neither fearful nor any way
difturbed. I foon difpatched him by lodging the
contents of my gun in his head, and then proceeded
to cleanfe and prepare my fifh for fupper ; and
accordingly took them out of the boat, laid them
down on the fand clofe to the water, and began to
fcale them ; when, raifing my head, I faw before
me, through the clear water, the head and ihoul-
ders of a very large alligator, moving flowly towards
me. I inftantly ftepped back, when, with a fweep
of his tail, he brufhed off feveral of my fifh. It
was certainly moft providential that I looked up at
that inftant, as the monfter would probably, in lefs
than a minute, have feized and dragged me into the
river. This incredible boldnefs of the animal dif-
turbed me greatly, fuppofing there could now be no
reafonable fafety for me during the night, but by
keeping continually on the watch : I therefore, as
loon as I had prepared the fifh, proceeded to fe-
cure myfelf and effefts in the beft manner I could.
In the firft place, I hauled my bark upon the
fhore, almoft clear out of the water, to prevent
their overfetting or finking her; after this, every
moveable was taken out and carried to my camp,

J 4 which

I 20

TRAVELS IN

which was but a few-, yards off; then ranging fome
dry wood in fuch order as was the moft convenient,
I cleared the ground round about it, that there might
be no impediment in my way, in cafe of an attack
in the night, either from the water or the land ; for
I difcovered by this time, that this fmall ifthmus,
from its remote fituation and fruitfulnefs, w'as re-
forted to by bears and wolves. Having prepared
myfelf in the beft manner I could, I charged my
gun and proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and the
adjacent grounds; when I difcovered that the pe-
ninfula and grove, at the diftance of about two hun-
dred yards from my encampment, on the land fide,
were inverted by a cyprefs fwamp, covered with
water, which below was joined to the fliore of the
little lake, and above to the marfhes furrounding the
lagoon ; fo that I was confined to an iflet exceed-
ingly circumfcribed, and I found there was no other
retreat for me, in cafe of an attack, but by either
afcending one of the large oaks, or pulhing off
with my boat.

It was by this time dulk, and the alligators had
nearly ceafed their roar, when I was again alarmed
by a tumultuous noife that feemed to be in my
harbour, and therefore engaged my immediate at-
tention. Returning to my camp, I found it undif-
turbed, and then continued on to the extreme point
of the promontory, where I faw a fcene, new and
furprifing, which at firft threw my fenfes into fuch
a tumult, that it was fome time before I could com-
prehend what was the matter ; however, I foon
accounted for the prodigious "affemblage of croco-
diles at this place, which exceeded every thing of
the kind I had ever heard of.

How fhall I exprefs myfelf fo as to convey an

adequate

NORTH AMERICA.

I 21

adequate idea of it to the reader, and at the fan
time avoid raifing fufpicions of my veracity. Should
I fay, that the river (in this place) from ihoie o
Lre, and perhaps near half a mile above and be-
low me, appeared to be one folid bank of fifh, of
various kinds, pulhing through this narrow pafs
of St. Juan’s into the little lake, on their return
down the river, and that the alligators were in fuch
incredible numbers, and fo clofe together from Ihore
to fliore, that it would have been eafy to have
walked acrofs on their heads, had the animals
been harmlefs ? What expreffions can fufficiently
declare the fflocking fcene that for fome minutes
continued, whilft this mighty army of fifh were forc-
ing the pafs ? During this attempt, thoulands, I
may fay hundreds of thoufands, of them were caught
and fwallowed by the devouring alligators. I have
feen an alligator take up out of the water feveral
p-reat fifh at a time, and juft fqueeze them betwixt
his jaws, while the tails of the great trout flapped
about his eyes and lips, ere he had fwallowed them.
The horrid noife of their clofing jaws, their plung-
ing amidft the broken banks of fifh, and riling
with their prey fome feet upright above the water,
the floods of water and blood ruffling out of their
mouths, and the clouds of vapour ifiuing from their
wide noftrils, were truly frightful. This fcene con-
tinued at intervals during the night, as the fifh
came to the pafs. After this fight, fflocking and
tremendous as it was, I found myfelf fomewhat ea-
fier and more reconciled to my fituation; being
convinced that their extraordinary aflfemblage here
was owing to this annual feaft of filfl ; and that
they were fo well employed in their own element,
that I had little occafion to fear their paying me a
vifit.

5

It

122

travels in

It being now almoft night, I returned to my
camp, where I had left my fifh broiling, and my
kettle of rice Hewing ; and having with me oil,
pepper, and fait, and excellent oranges hanging in
abundance over my head (a valuable fubftitute for
vinegar) I fat down and regaled myfelf cheerfully.
[Having finifhed my repaft, I rekindled my fire for
[light, and whilft I was reviling the notes of my paft
day’s journey, I was fuddenly roufed with a noile
behind me toward the main land. I fprang up on
any feet, and liltening, I diftinCtly heard fome crea-
ture wading in the water of the ifthmus, I feized
any gun and went cautioufly from my camp, direct-
ing my Heps towards the noife : when I had ad-
vanced about thirty yards, I halted behind a cop-
pice of orange trees, and foon perceived two very
large bears, which had made their way through the
water, and had landed in the grove, about one hun-
dred yards diftance from me, and were advancing
towards me. I waited until they were within thirty
yards of me : they there began to fnuff and look to-
wards my camp : I fnapped my piece, but it fiafhed,
on which they both turned about and galloped off,
plunging through the water and fwamp, never halt-
ing, as I fuppofe, until they reached faft land, as I
could hear them leaping and plunging a long time.
They did not prefume to return again, nor was I
molefted by any other creature, except being occa-
fionally awakened by the whooping of owls, feream-
ing of bitterns, or the wood-rats running amongft
the leaves.

The wood-rat is a very curious animal. It is
not half the fize of the domeflic rat; of a dark brown
or black colour; its tail (lender and fhorter in
proportion, and covered thinly with fhort hair.

NORTH AMERICA. 123*.

It is lingular with refpeft to its ingenuity and
great labour in the conftruftion of its habitation,
which is a conical pyramid about three or four feet
high, conftrufted with dry branches, which it col-
lefts with great labour and perfeverance, and piles up
without any apparent order ; yet they are fo inter-
woven with one another, that it would take a bear
or wild-cat fome time to pull one of thefe caftles to
pieces, and allow the animals fufficient time to fe-
cure a retreat with their young.

The noife of the crocodiles kept me awake the
greater part of the night but when I arofe in the,
morning, contrary to my expectations, there was
perfeft peace ; very few of them to be feen, and
thofe were afleep on the fhore. Yet I was not able
to fupprefs my fears and apprehenfions of being at-
tacked by them in future ; and indeed yefterday’s
combat with them, notwithftanding I came off in a
manner victorious, or at lead made a fafe retreat,
had left fufficient impreffion on my mind to damp
my courage ; and it feemed too much for one of
my ftrength, being alone in a very fmall boat, to
encounter fuch collected danger. To purfue my
voyage up the river, and be obliged every even-
ing to pafs fuch dangerous defiles, appeared to me
as perilous as running the gauntlet betwixt two rows
of Indians armed with knives and firebrands. I
however refolved to continue my voyage one day
longer, if I poffibly could with fafety, and then re-
turn down the river, ffiould I find the like difficul-
ties to oppofe. Accordingly I got every thing on
board, charged my gun, and fet fail cautioufly,
along fhore. As I palled by Battle lagoon, I began
to tremble and keep a good look out ; when fud-
denly a huge alligator rulhed out of the reeds, and

with

TRAVELS INT

124

with a tremendous roar came up, and darted as
fwifc as an arrow under my boat, emerging upright
on my lee quarter, with open jaws, and belching
water and fmoke that fell upon me like rain in a
hurricane. I laid foundly about his head with my
club and beat him off ; and after plunging and dart-
ing about my boat, he went off on a ftraight line
through the water, feemingly with the rapidity of
lightning, and entered the cape of the lagoon. I
now employed my time to the very bell advantage
in paddling clofe along lhore, but could not forbear
looking now and then behind me, and prefently
perceived one of them coming up again. The wa-
ter of the river hereabouts was fhoal and very clear;
the monfter came up with the ufual roar and me-
naces, and paffed clofe by the fide of my boat,
when I could diftinftly fee a young brood of alliga-
tors, to the number of one hundred or more, fol-
lowing after her in a long train- They kept clofe
together in a column without draggling off to the
one fide or the other ; the young appeared to be of
an equal fize, about fifteen inches in length, almoft
black, with pale yellow tranfvcrfe waved clouds or
blotches, much like rattlefnakcs in colour. I now
loft fight of my enemy again.

Still keeping clofe along fhore, on turning a
point or projedlion of the river bank, at once I be-
held a great number of hillocks or fmall pyramids,
refembling hay-cocks, ranged like an encampment
along the banks. They flood fifteen or twenty yards
diftant from the water, on a high marfh, about four
feet perpendicular above the water. I knew them
to be the nefts of the crocodile, having had a de-
fcription of them before; and now. expe6led a fu-
rious and general attack, as I faw feveral large cro-
codiles

NORTH AMERICA.

125

codiles fwimming abreaft of thefe buildings. Thefe
nefts being fo great a curiofity to me, I was deter-
mined at all events immediately to land and exa-
mine them. Accordingly, I ran my bark on fhore
at one of their landing-places, which was a fort of
nick or little dock, from which afcended a doping
path or road up to the edge of the meadow, where
their nefts were; moft of them were deferted, and
the great thick whitifh egg-lhells lay broken and
fcattered upon the ground round about them.

The nefts or hillocks are of the form of an obtufe
cone, four feet high and four or five feet in dia-
meter at their bafes ; they are conftru&ed with mud,
grafs, and herbage. At firft they lay a floor of this
kind of tempered mortar on the ground, upon which
they depofit a layer of eggs, and upon this a ftra-
tum of mortar feven or eight inches in thicknefs,
and then another layer of eggs, and in this manner
one ftratum upon another, nearly to the top. I be-
lieve they commonly lay from one to two hundred
eggs in a neft : thefe are hatched, I fuppofe, by the
heat of the fun ; and perhaps the vegetable fub-
ftances mixed with the earth, being aCted upon by the
fun, may caufe a fmall degree of fermentation, and
fo increafe the heat in thofe hillocks. The ground
for feveral acres about thefe nefts fhewed evident
marks of a continual refort of alligators ; the grafs
was every where beaten down, hardly a blade or
ftraw was left {landing; whereas, all about, at a
diftance, it was five or fix feet high, and as thick
as it could grow together. The female, as I ima-
gine, carefully watches her own neft of eggs until
they are all hatched ; or perhaps while fhe is attend-
ing her own brood, fhe takes under her care and
protection as many as fhe can get at one time, ei-

, ther

TRAVELS IN

Il6

ther from her own particular neft or others: but
certain it is, that the young are not left to Ihift for
themfelves ; for I have had frequent opportunities of
feeing the female alligator leading about the fhores
her train of young ones, juft as a hen does her
brood of chickens ; and fhe is equally affiduous and
courageous in defending the young, which are un-
der her care, and providing for their fubfiftence;
and when Ihe is balking upon the warm banks, with
her brood around her, you may hear the young ones
continually whining and barking, like young pup-
pies. I believe but few of a brood live to the years
of full growth and magnitude, as the old feed on
the young as long as they can make prey of them.

The alligator when full grown is a very large
and terrible creature, and of prodigious ftrength,
activity, and fwiftnefs in the water. I have l'een
them twenty feet in length, and fome are fuppofed
to be twenty-two or twenty-three feet. Their body
is as large as that of a horfe; their fhape ex-
actly refembles that of a lizard, except their tail,
which is flat or cuneiform, being comprefied on each
fide, and gradually diminifhing from the abdomen
to the extremity, which, with the whole body is
covered with horny plates or fquammre, impene-
trable when on the body of the live animal, even
to a rifle ball, except about their head and juft be-
hind their fore-legs or arms, where it is faid they
are only vulnerable. The head of a full grown one
is about three feet, and the mouth opens nearly the
fame length ; their eyes are fmall in proportion and
feem funk deep in the head, by means of the pro-
minency of the brows ; the noftrils are large, in-
flated and prominent on the top, fo that the head
in the water refembles, at a diftance, a great

chunk

NORTH AMERICA.

127

chunk of wood floating about. Only the upper jaw-
moves, which they raife almoft perpendicular, fo
as to form a right angle with the lower one. In
the fore-part of the upper jaw, on each fide, juft
under the noftrils, are tv/o very large, thick, ftrong
teeth or tufks, not very fharp, but rather the fhape
of a cone : thefe are as white as the fineft polifhed
ivory, and are not covered by any Ikin or lips, and
always in fight, which gives the creature a fright-
ful appearance : in the lower jaw are holes oppo-
fite to thefe teeth, to receive them: when they clap
their jaws together it caufes a furprifing noife, like
that which is made by forcing a heavy plank with
violence upon the ground, and may be heard at a
great diftance.

But what is yet more furprifing to a ftranger, is
the incredible loud and terrifying roar, which they
are capable of making, efpecially in the fpring fea-
fon, their breeding time. It moft refembles very
heavy diftant thunder, not only fhaking the air and
waters, but caufing the earth to tremble ; and when
hundreds and tho.ufands are roaring at die fame time,
you can fcarcely be perliiaded, but that the whole
globe is violently and dangeroufly agitated.

An old champion, who is perhaps abfolute fove-
reign of a little lake or lagoon (when fifty lefs than
himfelf are obliged to content themfeives with fwell-
ing and roaring in little coves round about) darts
forth from the reedy coverts all at once, on the
furface of the waters, in a right line ; at firft feein-
ingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more flowly
until he arrives at the center of the lake, when he
flops. He now fwells himfelf by drawing in wind
and water through his mouth, which caufes a loud

fonprous

7 25

TRAVELS IN

fonorous rattling in the throat for near a minute,
but it is immediately forced out again through his
mouth and noftrils, with a loud noife, brandifhing
his tail in the air, and the vapour afcending from his
noftrils like i'moke. At other times, when fwollen
to an extent ready to burft, his head and tail lifted
up, he fpins or twirls round on the furface of the
water. He a<5ts his part like an Indian chief when
rehearfing his feats of war; and then retiring, the
exhibition is continued by others who dare to ftep
forth, and ftrive to excel each other, to gain the ^
attention of the favourite female.

Having gratified my curiofity at this general breed-
ing-place and nurfery of crocodiles, I continued
my voyage up the river without being; greatly dis-
turbed'by them. In my way I obferved iflets or float-
ing fields of the bright green Piftia, decorated with
other amphibious plants, as Senecio Jacobea, Per-
ficaria amphibia, Coreopfis bidens, Hydrocotyle flui-
tans, and many others of lefs note.

The fwamps on the banks and iflands of the river
are generally three or four feet above the furface
of the water, and very level ; the timber large and
growing thinly, more fo than what is obferved to be
in the fwamps below lake George ; the black rich
earth is covered with moderately tall, and very Suc-
culent tender grafs, which when chewed is fweet and
agreeable to the tafte, fomewhat like young Sugar-
cane : it is a jointed decumbent graSs, Sending out »
radicuke at the joints into the earth, and So Ipreads
icSelf, by creeping over its SurSace.

The large timber trees, which poflefs the low lands,
are Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus
fylvatica, Fraxinus excelfior, S rax. aquatica, Ulmus
/ fuberifer,

NORTH AMERICA.

I 2 9

fuberifer, Gleditfia monofperma, Gledit. triacan-
thus, Diofpyros Virgmica, Nyffa aquatica, Nyffa
fylvatica, Juglans cinerea, Quercus dentata, Quer-
cus phillos, Hopea tindoria, Corypha palma, Mo-
rns rubra, and many more. The palm grows on the
edo-es of the banks, where they are raifed higher than
the° adiacent level ground, by the accumulation of
hand, river- fla ells, &c. I paffed along feveral miles
by thofe rich fwafnps : the channels of the river
which encircle the feveral fertile idands I had
palled, now uniting, formed one deep channel near
three hundred yards over. The banks of the river
on each fide, began to rife and prefent fhelly
bluffs, adorned by beautiful Orange groves. Lau-
rels and Live Oaks. And now appeared in light, a
tree that claimed my whole attention : it was the
Carica papaya, both male and female, which were
in flower ; and the latter both in flower and fruit,
fome of which were ripe, as large, and of the form
of a pear, and of a mod charming appearance.

This admirable tree is certainly the mod beau-
tiful of any vegetable produdion I know of; the
towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm, in-
deed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but
not in elegance, delicacy, and gracefulnefs. It rifes
ered to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, with a
perfeaiy ftraight tapering dem, which is frnooth and
polilhed, of a bright afli colour, refembling leaf filver,
curioufly infcribed with the footfteps of the fallen
leaves; and thefe veftiges are placed in a very re-
gular uniform imbricated order, which has a fine
effed, as if the little column were elegantly .carved
all over. Its perfedly fpherical top is formed of
very large lobe-finuate leaves, fupported on very
long footftalks; the lower leaves are the largeft
as well as their petioles the longeft, and make

K £ gracefu 1

TRAVELS IS

130

a graceful fweep or floiarifh, like the long / or
the branches of a fconce candleftick. The" ripe
and green fruit are placed round about the ftem or
trunk, from the lowermoft leaves, where the ripe
fruit are, and upwards almoft to the top ; the heart
or inmoft pithy part of the trunk is in a manner hol-
low, or at beft confifts of very thin porous medullse
or membranes. The tree very feldom branches or
divides into limbs, I believe never unlefs the top is
by accident broke off when very young : I faw one
which had two tops or heads, the fterp of which di-
vided near the earth. It is always green, orna-
mented at the fame time with flowers and fruit,
which like figs come out fingly from the trunk or
Item.

After reding and refrefhing myfelf in thele de-
lightful fhades, I left them with relu&ance. Em-
barking again after the fervid heats of the meridian
fun was abated, for fome time I paffed by broken
ridges of fhelly high land, covered with groves
of Eive Oak, Palm, Olea Americana,, and Orange
trees ; frequently obferving floating iflets and green
fields of the Piftia near the Ihores of the river and
jagoons.

Here is in this river and in the waters all over
Florida, a very curious and handfome fpecies of birds;
the people call them Snake Birds ; I think I have
feen paintings of them on the Chinele fereens and
other India pictures : they ieem to be a fpecies
of cormorant or loon (Colymbus cauda elongata),
but far more beautiful and delicately formed
than any other fpecies that I have ever feen. The
head and neck of this bird are extremely fmall and
flender, the latter very long indeed, almoft out of
all proportion ; the bill long, ftraight, and flender,
3 tapering

North America.

tapering from its ball to a fharp point; all the upper
fide, the abdomen and thighs, are as black and
glo/Ty as a raven’s, covered with feathers fo firm and
elaftic, that they in fome degree refemble fifh-fcales ;
the breaft and upper part of the belly are covered
with feathers of a cream colour; the tail is very
long, o t a deep black, and tipped with a filvery
white, and when fpread, represents an unfurled fan.
They delight to fit in little peaceable communities,
on the dry limbs of trees, hanging over the Hill waters,
with their, wings and tails expanded, I fuppofe to
cool and air themfelves, when at the fame time they
behold their images in the watery mirrour. At fuch
times, when we approach them, they drop off the
imbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute or
two are not to be feen ; when on a hidden, at a
va t di fiance, their long flender head and neck
only appear, and have very much the appearance
ot a make, and no other part of them is to be
. n when fwimming in the water, except fome-
times the tip end of their tail. In the heat of the
day they are feen in great numbers, failing very
high in the air, over lakes and rivers.

1 doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabit-

furniff ^thlTlberum °Vld’S ^ iC WOuld have

furmfhed him with a fubjed for fome beautiful
and entertaining metamorphofes. I believe it
feeds intirely on fifh, for its flefh fmells and taftes
intolerably Strong of it; it is fcarcely to be eaten
unlefs conftrained by infulferable hunger.

I had now fwamps and marfhes on both hides of
me; and evening coming on apace, 1 began to look
out for high land to encamp on ; but the extenfive

Soft darkCTd tTS b0lmds> and itwas a|-
molt daik when I found a tolerably fuitable place,

K 2 * ‘ and

TRAVELS IN

132

and at lad was condrained to take up with a narrow
drip of high flrelly bank, on the wed fide. Great
numbers of crocodiles were in fight on both fhores.

I ran my bark on fhore at a perpendicular bank four
or five feet above the water, jud by the roots and
under the fpreading limbs of a great Live Oak: this
appeared to have been an ancient camping place by
Indians and drolling adventurers, from affi heaps
and old rotten fire brands and chunks, fcattered
about on the furface of the ground ; but was now
evidently the harbour and landing place of fome
fovereign alligator : there led up from it a deep
beaten path or road, which was a convenient afcent.

I did not approve of my intended habitation from
thefe circumstances; and no Sooner- had I landed jj
and moored my canoe to the roots of the tree, than
I faw a huge crocodile rifing up from the bottom
clofe by me, who, when he perceived that 1 faw
him, plunged down again under my veffel. _ 1 his
determined me to be on my guard, and in time to
provide againd a troublefome night. I took out of ■
my boat every moveable, which I carried upon the
bank ; then chofe my lodging clofe to my canoe,
under the fpreading Oak, as hereabouts only, the
ground was open and clear of high grafs and bufhes,
and confequently 1 had fome room to dir and look
round about. I then proceeded to collect firewood,
which 1 found difficult to procure. Here were dand-
inrr a few Orange trees. As for provifions, I had
laved one or two barbecued trout, the remains of
my lad evening’s collection, in tolerable good order,
though the fultry heats of the day had injured them ;
yet by dewing them up adeffi with the live y L"ce«
of Oranges, they ferved well enough for my fup'l
per, as 1 had by this time but little reliffi or appe-

NORTH AMERICA. 133

the for mv victuals; for conftant watching at night
aeainft the attacks of alligators flinging of muf-
quitoes and fultry heats of the day, together with
the fatigues of working my bark, had almoit de-
prived me of every defire but that of ending my
troubles as fpeedily as poflible. I had the good for-
tune to collect together a fufficiency of dry kicks
to keep up a light and finoke, which I laid by me,
and then fpread my fkins and blankets upon the
ground, kindled up a little fire, and fupped before
it was quite dark. The evening was however ex-
tremely pleafant ; a brifk cool breeze fprang up, and
the fkies were perfedtly ferene, the ftars twinkling
with uncommon brilliancy. I fh etched my felt a-
long before my fire, having the river, my little
harbour, and the ftern of my veflfel in view ; and now'
through fatigue and wearinefs I fell afleep. But
this happy temporary releafe from cares and trou-
bles I enjoyed but a few moments, when I was
awakened and greatly furprifed, by the terrifying
fcreams of Owls in the deep fwamps around me ;
and what increafed my extreme mifery was the dif-
ficulty of getting quite awake, and yet hearing at
the fame time fuch fcreaming and fhouting, which
increafed and fpread every way for miles around, in
dreadful peals vibrating through the dark extenfive
forefts, meadows, and lakes. I could not after this fur-
prife recover my former peaceable date and tranquil-
lity of mind and repofe, during the long night ; and I
believe it was happy for me that I w'as awakened,
for at that moment the crocodile w'as dafhing my
canoe againft the roots of the tree, endeavouring
to get into her for the fifh, which I however pre-
vented. Another time in the night I believe I. nar-
rowly efcaped being dragged into the river by him,
for when again through exceflive fatigue I had fallen

K 3 afleep.

TRAVELS IN

*34

afleep, but was again awakened by the fereaming
owl, I found the monfter on the top of the bank,
his head towards me not above two yards diftant j
when Parting up and feizin'g my fufee well loaded,
which I always kept under my head in the night
time, he drew back and plunged into the water.
After this, I roufed up my fire, and kept a light
during the remaining part of the night, being deter-
mined not to be caught napping fo again: indeed the
mufquitoes alone would have been abundantly fuffi-
cient to keep any creature awake that poflefled
their perfect fenles ; but I was overcome and ftu-
pified with inceflant watching and labour. As foon
as I difcovered the firft figns of day-light, I arofe,
got all my effects and implements on board, and fet
fail, proceeding upwards, hoping to give the muf-
quitoes the flip, who were now, by the cool morning
clews and breezes, driven to their Ihelter and hiding
places. 1 was miftaken however in thefe conjec-
tures, for great numbers of them, which had con-
cealed themfelves in my boat, as foon as the fun
arofe, began to revive, and fling me on my legs,
which obliged me to land in order to get bulhes to
beat them out of their quarters.

It is very pleafing to obferve the banks of the
river ornamented with hanging garlands, com-
poled of varieties of climbing vegetables, both
fhrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green
walls, with projecting jambs, pilafters, and deep
apartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and com-
pletely covered with Glycine frutefeens, Glyc. apios,
Vitis labrufea, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quin-
quifolia, Hedera arborea, Eupatorium fcandens,.
Bignonia crucigera, and various fpecies of Convol-
vulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this

genus,

NORTH AMERICA.

135

genus, or perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very
large white flower, as big as a fmall .funnel; its tube
is five or fix inches in length, and not thicker than
a pipe ftem ; the leaves are alfo very large, oblong,
and cordatcd, fometimes dentated or angled, near
the insertion of the foot-ftalk ; they are of a thin
texture, and of a deep green colour. It is exceed-
ingly curious to behold the Wild Squafh * climbing
over the lofty limbs of the trees ; its yellow fruit,
fomewhat of the fize and figure of a large orange,
pendant from die extremities of the limbs over
the water.

Towards noon, the fultry heats being intolerable,

I put into fhore, at a middling high bank, five or
fix feet above the furface of the river. This low fandy
teflaceous ridge along the river fide was but narrow ;
the furface light, black, and exceedingly fertile, pro-
ducing very large venerable Live Oaks, Palms, and
grand Magnolias, fcatteringly planted by nature.
There being no underwood to prevent the play of
the breezes from the river, it afforded a defirable re-
treat from the fun’s heat. Immediately at the back of
this narrow ridge, were deep wet fwamps, where flood
fome aflonifliingly tall and fpreading Cyprefs trees.
And now being weary and drowfy, 1 was -induced to
indulge and liflen to the dictates of reafon and
invitations to repofe ; which confenting to, after
fecuring my boat and reconnoitering the ground,
I fpread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat,
on which I extended myfelf, where, falling to fleep, I
inflantaneoufiy paffed away the fultry hours of noon.
What a blifsful tranquil repofe ! Undiflurbed I awoke,
refrefhed and ilrengthened ; I cheerfully flepped on
board again and continued to afcend the river. The

* Cucurbits per.';' runs.

K 4

afternoon

TRAVELS IN

136

afternoon being cool and pleafant, and the trees
very lofty on the higher weftern banks of the river,
by keeping near that fhore I paired under agreea-
ble fhades the remaining part of the day. During
almoll all this day’s voyage, the banks of the river
on both flhores were middling high, perpendicular,
and wafhed by the brilk current : the ffiores were
not lined with the green lawns of floating aquatics,
and confequently not very commodious re forts or
harbours for crocodiles ; I therefore was not dif-
turbed by them, and faw but few, but thofe were
very large. I however did not like to lodge on
thofe narrow ridges, inverted by fuch dreary fwamps j
and evening approaching, I began to be anxious
for high land for a camping place. It was quite
dark before I came up to a bluff, which I had in
view a long time, over a very extenfive point of
meadows. I landed however at laft, in the beft man-
ner I could, at a magnificent foreft of Orange
groves, Oaks, and Palms. I here, with little labour
or difficulty, foon collected a fufficient quantity of
dry wood : there was a pleafant villa of grafs be-
twixt the grove and the edge of the river bank,
which afforded a very convenient, open, airy en-
camping place, under the protection of fome fpread-
tng Oaks.

This was a high perpendicular bluff, fronting
iiore than one hundred yards on the river, the earth
black, loofe, and fertile : it is a compofition of river-
fhells, fand, &c. At the back of it from the river, were
open Pine forefls and favannas. I met with a cir-
cumftance here, that, with fome, may be reckoned
worthy of mentioning, fince it regards the monu-
ments of the ancients. As I have already obferved,
when I landed it was quite dark , and in collecting

wood

NORTH AMERICA. T37

wood for my fire, {trolling in the dark about the
groves, I found the furface of the ground very un-
even, by means of little mounts and ridges. In
the morning I found I had taken up my lodging on
the border of an ancient burying ground, containing
lepulchres or tumuli of the Yamafees, who were here
{lain by the Creeks in the laft decifive battle, the
Creeks having driven them into this point, between
the doubling of the river, where few of them efcaped
the fury of the conquerors. Thefe graves occupied
the whole grove, confiding of two or three acres of
ground: there were near thirty of thefe cemeteries of
die dead, nearly of an equal fize and form, being
oblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve feet in
width, and three or four feet high, now overgrown
with orange trees, live oaks, laurel magnolias, red
bays and other trees and fhrubs, compofing dark and
folemn fnades.

I here, for the firft time fince I left the trading
houfe, enjoyed a night of peaceful repofe. I arofe,
greatly refrefhcd and in good fpirits, ftepped on
board my bark, and continued my voyage. After
doubling the point, I palled by fwamps and meadows
on each fide of me. The river here is fomething
more contracted within perpendicular banks ; the
land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing
prodigioufiy large timber and luxuriant herbage.

The air continued fultry, and fcarcely enough
w'ind to flutter the leaves on the trees. The Eaftern
coafi: of the river now opens, and prefents to view
ample plains, confiding of graffy marfhes and green
meadows, and affords a profpedl almoft unlimit-
ed and extremely pleafing. The oppofite fhore
exhibits a fublime contrail: ; a high bluff" bearing
magnificent forefts of grand magnolia, glorious

palms.

TRAVELS IN

13s

palms, fruitful orange groves, live oaks, bays and
other trees. This grand elevation continues four or
five hundred yards, defcribing a gentle curve on the
river, ornamented by a fublime grove of palms, con-
fining of many hundreds of trees together; they
entirely lhade the ground under them. Above and
below the bluff, the grounds gradually defcend to
tire common level fwamps on the river: at the back
of this eminence open to view expanfive green
meadows or favannas, in which are to be feen glit-
tering ponds of water, furrounded at a great dif-
tance by high open pine forefts and hommocks,
and iflcts of oaks and bays projecting into the
favannas. After ranging about thefe folitary groves
and peaceful lhades, I re-embarked and continued
fome miles up the river, between elevated banks
of the fwamps or low lands; when on the Eaft
flrore, in a capacious cove or winding of the river,
were pleafing floating fields of piftia ; and in the
bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek
or branch of the river, which I knew to be the en-
trance to a beautiful lake, on the banks of which
was the farm I was going to vifit, and which I de-
figned fhould be the laft extent of my voyage up the
river.

About noon the weather became extremely fultry,
not a breath of wind flirting, hazy or cloudy, with
very heavy diftant thunder, which was anfwered by
the crocodiles, fure prefage of a ftorm!

Soon after afeending this branch of the river, on
the right hand prefents itfelf to view a delightful
little bluff, confiding chiefly of fliells, and covered
with a dark grove of red cedar, Zanthoxylon and
myrtle. I could not refill the temptation to flop
here, although the tremendous thunder all around

NORTH AMERICA. 139

the hemifphere alarmed me greatly, having a large
lake to crofs. From this grove appears to view ai>
expanfive and pleafmg prolped. The beauteous
long lake in front, about North Eaft from me, its
moll diftant Eaft fliores adorned with dark, high
forefts of (lately trees; North and South almoft end-
lels green plains and meadows, embellilhed with
illets and projefting promontories of high, dark fo-
refts, where' the pyramidal magnolia grandiftora,
palma data, and lhady oak, confpicuoufly tower.

Being heretofore fo clofely invefted by high fo-
refts and deep fwamps of die great river, I was pre-
vented from feeing the progrefs and increafe of the
approaching tempeft, the terrific appearance of
which now at once confounded me. Ho\y purple
and fiery appeared the tumultuous clouds, fwiftly
afcending or darting from the horizon upwards !
they feemed to oppofe and daih againft each other;
the Ikies appeared ftreaked with blood or purple
flame overhead, the flaming lightning dreaming
and darting about in every diredtion around, feemed
to fill the world with fire; whilft die heavy thunder
kept the earth in a conftant tremor. I had yet
fome hopes of eroding the lake to the plantation in
fight. On the oppofite fliore of the creek before
me, and on the cape as we enter the lake, flood a
large iflet or grove of oaks and palms. Here I in-
tended to feek fhelter and abide till the fury of the
hurricane was overpaft, if I found it too violent to
permit me to crofs the lake. In confequence of this
precipitate determination, I ftepped into my boat
and pufhed off. What a dreadful rufhing and roaring
there was every where around me ! and to my ut-
ter confufion and aftonifhment, I could not find from
what particular quarter its ftrongeft current or direc-
tion

14O

TRAVELS IN

tion came, whereby I might have a proper chance
of taking meafures for fecuring a harbour or running
from it. The high forefls behind me bent to the
blaftj and the flurdy limbs of the trees cracked. I
had by this time got up abreaft of the grove or horn-
mock : the hurricane clofe by, purfuing me, I found
it dangerous and imprudent in the higheft degree to
put in here, as the groves were already torn up, and
the fpreading limbs of the ancient live oaks were
flying over my head, and cairied about in the air as
leaves and ftubble. I ran by and boldly entered the
lake (being hurried in by a ftrong current, which
feemed a prodigy, the violent wind driving the ftream
of the creek back again into the lake), and as foon
as poffible took (belter under the high reedy bank
of the lake, and made faft my bark to the boughs
of a low fhrubby Hickory, that leaned oyer the wa-
ter. Such was the violence of the wind, that it
railed the waters on the oppofite Ihores of the lake
feveral feet perpendicular, and there was a rapid flow
of water from the creek into it, which was contrary
to its natural courfe. Such floods ofjain fell duiing
the fpace of half or three quarters of an hour, that
my boat was filled, and I expefted every moment
when I fhould fee her fink to the bottom of the lake ;
and the violence of the wind kept the cable fo con-
ftantly extended, that it was beyond my ability to
get to her. My box which contained my books of
Specimens and other cohesions, was floating about
in her; and for a great part of the time the rain came
down with fuch rapidity and fell in fuch quantities,
that every objeft was totally obfeured, excepting the
continual ftreams or rivers of lightning, pouring
from the clouds. All feemed a frightful chaos.
When the wind and rain abated, I was overjoyed to
fee the face of nature again appear.

It

NORTH AMERICA. I41

It took me an hour or more to clear the water out
of my bark. I then eroded the lake before a brifk
and favourable breeze (it was about a mile over),
and landed fafely at the plantation.

When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to fee
me, and immediately inquired of me in what man-
ner I came there ; fuppofing it impoffible (until 1
had fhowed him my boat) that I could have arrived
by water, through lo tremendous a hurricane.

Indeed I faw plainly that they were greatly terri-
fied, havincr fuffered almoft irreparable damages
from the violence of the ftorm. All the building.,
on the plantation, except his own dwelling-houie,
were laid almoft flat to the ground, or the logs and
roof rent afunder and twifted about; the manfion-
houfe Ihook and reeled over their heads. He had
nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almoft
ripe for the firft cutting, which were nearly ruined ;
and feveral acres of very promifing fugar-cane, to-
tally lpoiled for the feafon. The great live oaks
which had been left (landing about the fields, were
torn to pieces, their limbs lying fcattered over the
ground*, and one very large one which flood neai
his houfe torn down, which could not have been
done by the united ftrength of a thouland men. But
what is incredible, in the midft of this devaftation
and ruin, providentially no lives were loft; although
there were about fixty Negro (laves on the planta-
tion, and mod of them in their huts when the ftorm
came on, yet they efcaped with their lives, though
feveral were badly wounded.

I continued here three days: indeed it took mod
of the time of my abode with him, to dry my books
and fpecimens of plants. But with attention and

• care

TRAVELS IN

J42

care I faved the greateft number of them ; though
fome were naturally fo delicate and fragile, that it
was impoffible to recover them. Here is a vaft body
of land belonging to this eftate; of high ridges fit
for the culture of corn, indigo, cotton, batatas, &c.
and of low fwamps and marfhes, which when pro-
perly drained and tilled, would be fuitable for rice.
Thele rich low grounds, when drained and ridged,
are as productive as the natural high land, and vaftly
more durable, elpecially for fugar-cane, corn, and
even indigo; but this branch of agriculture being
more expenfive, thefe rich lands are negleCted, and
the upland only is under culture. The farm is fitu-
ated on the Eaft fhore of the beautiful Long Lake,
which is above two miles long, and near a mile broad.
This lake communicates with the St. Juan, by the
little river that I afcended, which is about one mile
and an half in length, and thirty or forty yards wide.
The river, as well as the lake, abounds widi filh and
wild fowl of various kinds, and incredible numbers,
efpecially during the winter feafon, when the geefe
and ducks arrive here from the north.

New Smyrna *, a pretty thriving town, is a colo-
ny of Creeks and Minorquines, eftablifhed by Mr.
Turnbull, on the Mufquito river, and very near its

New Smyrna is built on a high fhelly bluff, on the Weft bank of the South
branch of Mufquito river, about ten miles above the capes of that river, which
is about thirty miles North of Cape Canaveral, Lat. 2S. I was there about ten
years ago, when the furveyor run the lines or preci nils of the colony, where
there wras neither habitation nor cleared field. It was then a famous orange
grove, the upper or South promontory of a ridge, nearly half a mile wide, and
itrerching North about forty miles, to the head of the North branch of the Muf-
quito, to where the Tomoko river unites with it, nearly parallel to the fca coaft,
and not above two miles acrofs to the fea beach. All this ridge was then one en-
tire orange grove, with live oaks, magnolias, palms, red bays, and others: I
sbferved then, near where New Smyrna now Hands, a fpacious Indian mount
and avepue, which flood near the banks of the river : the avenue ran on a ftrait
line back, through the groves, acrofs the ridge, and teiminated at the verge of
natural favannas and ponds.

mouth ;

NORTH AMERICA. I4J

mouth ; it is about thirty miles over land from this
farm.

My friend rode with me, about four miles diftance
from the houfe, to fhow me a vaft fountain of warm,
or rather hot mineral water, which iflfued from a
high ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove 01-
bay, a few miles above the mouth of the creek .
which I afcended to the lake; it boils up with o-reat
force, forming immediately a vaft circular bafon~ ca-
pacious enough for feveral fhallops to ride in, and
runs with rapidity into the river three or four hun-
dred yards diftance. This creek, which is formed
inftantly by this admirable fountain, is wide and
deep enough for a floop to fail up into the bafon.
The water is perfeftly diaphanous, and here are
continually a prodigious number and variety of fifh ;
they appear as plain as though lying on a table be-
fore your eyes, although many feet deep in the wa-
ter. This tepid water has a moft difagreeable tafte,
brafly and vitriolic, and very offenfive to the fmelk
much like bilge water or the walhings of a gun-bar-
rel, and is fmelt at a great diftance. A pale bluifh
or pearl coloured coagulum covers every inanimate
fub trance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs of
trees, &c. Alligators and gar were numerous in the
bafon, even at the apertures where the ebullition
emerges through the rocks; as alfo many other tribes
of hfh. In the winter feafon feveral kinds of filh
and aquatic animals migrate to thefe warm foun-
tains. The forbidding tafte and fmell of thefe waters
feems to be owing to vitriolic and fulphureous fumes
or vapours; and thefe being condenfed, form this
coagulum, which reprefents flakes of pearly clouds’
in the clear cerulean waters in the bafon. A charm
mg orange grove, with magnolias, oaks, and palms

1 TRAVELS IN

half fiir rounded this vaft fountain. A delightful
ftream of cool falubrious water iffues from the ridge,
meandering along and entering the creek juft below
the bafon. I returned in the evening, and next day
fat off again down the river.

My hofpitable friend, after fupplying me with ne-
ceffaries, prevailed on me to accept of the company
and affiftance of his purveyor, one day’s voyage
down the river, whom 1 was to fet on fhore at a
certain bluff, upwards of twenty miles below, but
not above one third that diftance by land; he was
to be out in the forefts one day, on a hunt for tur-
keys.

The current of ihe river being here confined
within its perpendicular banks, ran brifkly down,
we cheerfully 4efcended_ the grand river St. Juan,
enjoying enchanting profpe&s.

Before night we reached the deftined port, at a
fpacious orange grove. Next morning we ieparated,

. and 1 proceeded/own the river. The profpefts on
either hand are now pleafing, and I view them at
leifure, and without toil or dread.

Induced by the beautiful appearance of the green
meadows, which open to the Eaftward, I determined
not to pafs this F.lyfium without a vifit. Behold t e j
loud, fonorous, watchful favanna cranes (grus pra-
tenfis) with mufical clangor, in detached fquadrons.
They fpread their light elaftic fail: at firft they j
move from the earth heavy and flow; they labour I
and beat the denfe air; they form the line with wide ■
extended wings, tip to tip; they all rife and fal to-
gether as one bird; now they mount aloft, gradually 1
wheeling about; each fquadron performs its evolu-
c * tions,

NORTH AMERICA.

145

tion, encircling the expanfive plains, obferving each
one its own orbit; then lowering fail, defeend
on the verge of fome glittering lake; whilft other
fquadrons, afeending aloft in fpiral circles, bound
on interefting difeoveries, wheel round and double
the promontory, in the filver regions of the clouded
fkies, where, far from the fcope of eye, they care-
fully obferve the verdant meadows on the borders of
the Eaft Lake ; then contract their plumes and de-
feend to the earth, where, after refting a while on fome
verdant eminence, near the flowery border of die
lake, they, with dignified, yet flow, refpe&ful fteps,
approach the kindred band, confer, and treat for
habitation; the bounds and precindts being fetded,
they confederate and take pofleflion.

There is inhabiting the low fhores and fwamps
of this river and the lakes of Florida, as well as
Georgia, a very curious bird *, called by an Indian
name (Ephoufkyca) which fignifies in our language
the crying bird. I cannot determine what genus
of European birds to join it with. It is about the
fize of a large domeftic hen: all the body, above
and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feadier
edged or tipped with white, which makes the bird
appear fpeckled on a near view; the eye is large
and placed high on the head, which is veiy promi-
nent; the bill or beak is five or fix inches in length,
arched or bent gradually downwards, in that refpedt
to be compared to one half of a bent bow; it is large
or thick near the bafe, comprefled on each fide, and
flatted at top and beneath, which makes it appear
four fquare for more than an inch, where the noftrils
are placed, from whence, to their tips, both man-
dibles are round, gradually leflening or taperjng to

* Tantalus piflus.

L

their

146

TRAVELS IN

their extremities, which are thicker for about halt
an inch than immediately above, by which the man-
dibles never fit quite clofe their whole length; the
upper mandible is a fmall matter longer than the
under; the bill is of a dufky green colour, more
bright and yellowith about the baft and angles of
the° mouth; the tail is very fhort, and the middle
feather the longeft; the others on each fide fhorten
gradually, and are of the colour of the reft of the
bird, only fomewhat darker; the two fhorteft or
outermoil; feathers are perfectly white, which the
bird has a faculty of flirting out on either fide, as
quick as a flalh of lightning, efpecially when he
hears or fees any thing that difturbs him, uttering
at the fame inftant an extreme harfh and loud
fhrick; his neck is long and (lender; and his legs
are alfo long and bare of feathers above the knee,
like thole of the bittern, and are black or of a daik

lead colour.

There are two other fpecies of this genus, which
agree in almoft every particular with the above de-
feription, except in fize and colour. _ The fiift
theft I fli all mention is a perfect white, except the
prime quill feathers, which are as black as thofe of
a crow ; the bill and legs of a beautiful clear red, as
alfo a fpace clear of feathers about the*eyes. Hie
other fpecies f is black on the upper fide, the bieaft
and belly white, and the legs and beak as white as
fnow Both theft fpecies are about half the fize of
the crying bird. They fly in large docks or fqua-
drons^ evening and morning, to and from their feed-
ing place or roofts; both fpecies are called Spanifh

curlews : theft and the crying bird feed chiefly on

* Tantalus albus. Numinus albus. Cat.
Tantalus vcrficclor. Numinus fufcus. Cat.

cray

NORTH AMERICA. 147

Cray fifh, whofe cells they probe, and with their
ftrong pinching bills drag them out: all the three
lpecies are efteemed excellent food.

It is a pleafing fight at times of high winds and
heavy thunder ftorms, to obferve the numerous lqua-
drons of thefe S pan i fir curlews driving to and fro,
turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when
by their various evolutions in the different and op-
pofite currents of the wind high in the clouds, their
111 very white plumage gleams and fparkles like the
brighteft cryflal, reflecting the fun-beams that dart
upon them between the dark clouds.

Since I have turned my obfervations upon the
birds of this country I fhall notice another very
Angular one, though already molt curioufly and
exactly figured by Catefby, which feems to be
nearly allied to thofe before mentioned; I mean
the bird which he calls the wood pelican *. This
is a large bird, perhaps near three feet high when
Handing erect. The bill is very long and ftrong,
bending with a moderate curve from the bafe to
the tip; the upper mandible is the largeft, and re-
ceives the edges of the nether one into it its whole
iength; the edges are very fharp and firm; the
whole of a dark afh or horn colour; the forehead
round the bafe of the beak and Aides of the head
is bare of feathers, and of a dark greenifh colour,
in which fpace is placed the eyes, which are very
large; the remainder of the head and neck is of a
nut brown colour; the back of a light bluifh grey
upper part of the wings, breaft, and belly, almoft
white, with fome flight dailies of grey; the cuill-
feathers and tail, which are very fliort, are of a dark
flate colour, almoft black; the legs, which are very

, * Tantalus loculator. Linn.

L 2 long,

148

TRAVELS IN

long, and bare of feathers a great length above
the knees, are of a dark dull greemfh colour: it
has a fmall bag or pouch under its throat: it feeds
on ferpents, young alligators, frogs, and other rep-
tiles.

This folitary bird does not aflociate in flocks, but
is generally feen alone; commonly near the banks
of crreat rivers, in vaft marfhes or meadows, efpe-
cially fuch as are caufed by inundations ; and alio
in the vaft deferted rice plantations: he itands
alone on the topmoft limb of tall dead cyprefs trees,
his neck contraded or drawn in upon his (houlders,
and beak refting like a long fcythe upon his breait .
in this penfive pofture and folitary fituation, it
looks extremely grave, forrowful, and melancholy, as
if in the deepeft thought. T hey are never feen on
the fait fea coaft, and yet are never found at a great
diftance from it. I take this bird to be of a different
genus from the tantalus, and perhaps « aPP™<*“
die neareft to the Egyptian ibis of any other bird y

known.

There are two fpecies of vultures * in thefe re-
gions, I think not mentioned in hiftory: the hrft we
tell defcribe is a beautiful bird, near the faof
a turkey buzzard f, but his wings are much flrorter,
and confequently he fells greatly below that admt-
mhle bird in fail. I lhall call this bird the painted
vulture. The bill is long and llraight almoft to
Ihepoint, when it is hooked or bent iuddenly down
aZ n the head and neck bare of feathers
nearly down ti the ftomach, when the feathers be-
1 o cover the (kin, and foon become long and
§ a foft texture, forming a ruff or ^ , m which
the bird by contra&ing his neck can hide

f Vulcur aurca.

well

* Vultur faura.

NORTH AMERICA. *49

well as his head ; the bare (kin on the neck appears
loofe and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yel-
low colour, intermixed with coral red; the hinder
part of the neck is nearly covered with fhort, ftiff
hair; and the lkin of this part of the neck is of a
dun-purple colour, gradually becoming red as it
approaches the yellow of the fides and fore part.
The crown of the head is red; there are lobed lap-
pets of a reddilh orange colour, which lie on the
bafe of the upper mandible. But what is lingular,
a large portion of the ftomach hangs down on the
breaft of the bird, in the likenefs of a fack or half
wallet, and feems to be a duplicature of the craw,
which is naked and of a reddilh flelh colour; this is
partly concealed by the feathers of the breaft, unlefs
when it is loaded with food (which is commonly, I
believe, roafted reptiles), and then it appears promi-
nent. The plumage of the bird is generally white or
cream colour, except the quill-feathers of the wings
and two or three rows of the coverts, which are of a
beautiful dark brown; the tail, which is large and
white, is tipped with this dark brown or black; the
legs and feet of a clear white; the eye is encircled
with a gold coloured iris ; the pupil black.

The Creeks or Mufcogulges conftrudt their royal
llandard of the tail feather of this bird, which is call-
ed by a name fignifying the eagle’s tail: this they
carry with them when they go to batde, but dien it
is painted with a zone of red within the brown tips;
and in peaceable negociations it is difplayed new,
clean, and white : this ftandard is held molt facred
by them on all occafions, and is conftrudted and or-
namented with great ingenuity. Thefe birds feldom
appear but when the deferts are fet on fire (which
happens almoft every day throughout the year, in

L 3 fome

i5° travels in

fome part or other, by the Indians, for the purpofe
of roufing the game, as alfo by the lightning:) when
they are feen at a diftance foaring on the wing, ga-
thering from every quarter, and gradually ap-
proaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon
the ground yet fmoking with hot embers: they ga-
ther up the roafted lerpents, frogs, and lizards,
filling their facks with them : at this time a perfon
may fhoot them at pleafure, they not being willing
to quit the feaft, and indeed feeming to brave all
danger.

The other fpecies may very properly be called
the coped vulture, and is by the inhabitants called
the carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is near-
ly equal to either of the others before mentioned.
His wings are not long and fharp pointed, but broad
and round at their extremities, having a clumfy ap-
pearance; the tail is remarkably fhort, which he
fp reads like a little fan, when on the wing. They
have a heavy laborious flight, flapping their wings,
then fail a little and then flap their wings again,
and fo on as if recovering themfelves when falling.
The beak is very long and ftraight, until it makes
a fudden hook at the point, in the manner of the
other vultures. The whole bird is of a fable or
mourning colour; the head and neck down to the
breaft is bare of feathers, and the fkin wrinkled;
this unfeathered fkin is of a deep livid purple, ap-
pearing black and thinly fet with fhort black hair.
He has a ruff or tippet of long foft feathers, like a
collar, bearing on his breaft, in which he can con-
ceal his neck aifd head at pleafure.

Having agreeably diverted away the intolerable
heats of lultry noon in fruitful fragrant groves, with
renewed vigour I again refume my fylvan pilgrimage.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

151

The afternoon and evening moderately warm, and
exceeding pleafant views from the river and its va-
ried fhores. I palled by Battle lagoon and the
bluff, without much oppofition; but the crocodiles
were already affembling in the pa£. Before night I
came to, at a charming orange grove bluff, on the
Eaft fide of the little lake; and after fixing my camp
on a high open fituation, and colledtmg a plenty of
dry wood for fuel, I had time to get fome fine trout
for fupper, and joyfully return to my camp.

What a raoft beautiful creature is this fifh before
me ! gliding to and fro, and figuring in the ftill
clear waters, with his orient attendants and affo-
ciates : the yellow bream * or fun fifh. It is about
eight inches in length, nearly of the fhape of the
trout, but rather larger in proportion over the
fhoulders and break ; the mouth large, and the
branchioftega opens wide ; the whole fifh is of a
palfe gold (or burnifhed brafs) colour, darker on the
back and upper fides ; the fcales are of a propor-
tionable fize, regularly placed, and every where
variably powdered with red, rufiet, filver, blue, and
green fpecks, fo laid on the fcales as to appear like
real duff or opaque bodies, each apparent particle
being fo projedted by light and fhade, and the va-
. rious attitudes of the fifh, as to deceive the fight :
for in reality nothing can be of a more plain and
polifhed furface than the fcales and whole body of
the fifh. The fins are of an orange colour; and,
like all the fpecies of the bream, the ultimate angle
.of the branchioftega terminates by a little fpatula,
the extreme end of which reprefents a crefcent of
the fineft ultramarine blue, encircled with filver and

* Cyprinus coronarius.

L 4

velvet

TRAVELS IN

lS2

velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a pea-
cock’s train. He is a fifh of prodigious ftrength
and activity in the water; a warrior in a gilded coat
of mail; and gives no reft or quarter to fmall fifh,
which he preys upon. They are delicious food and
in great abundance.

The orange grove is but narrow, betwixt the
river banks and ancient Indian fields, where there
are evident traces of the habitations of the ancients,
furrounded with groves of live oak, laurel magno-
lia, zanthoxylon, liquidambar, and others.

How harmonious and foothing is this native fyl-
van mufic now at ftill evening ! inexpreflibly tender
are the refponfive cooings of the innocent dove, in
the fragrant zanthoxylon groves, and the variable
and tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, with the
more fprightly and elevated ftrains of the blue linnet
and golden idterus: this is indeed harmony, even
amidft the incefiant croaking of the frogs ; the
fbades of filent night are made more cheerful, with
the (brill voice of the whip-poor-will * and adtive
mock-bird.

My fituation high and airy; a brifk and cool breeze
fteadily and inceflantly pafling over the clear waters
of the lake, and fluttering over me through the fur-
rounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light
favannas, while I repofe on my fweet and healthy
couch of the foft tillandfia ufnea-adfcites, and the
latter gloomy and ftill hours of night pafs rapidly
away as it were in a moment. I arofe, ftrengthen-

* CaprimXilgus rufus, called chuck-will's- widow, from a fancied refem-
blance of his notes to thefe words : it inhabits the maritime parts of Carolina
and Florida, and is more than twice the fize of the night hawk or whip-poor-
will.

ed

M •

NORTH AMERICA.

*53

cd and cheerful, in the morning. Having fome
repairs to make in the tackle of my veflfel, I paid m j
firlt attention to them ; which being accomplifhed,
my curio fity prompted me to penetrate the grove
and view the illumined plains.

What a beautiful difplay of vegetation is here
before me ! feemingly unlimited in extent and va-
riety: how the dew-drops twinkle and play upon
the fight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green
favanna, fparkling as the gem that flames on the
turban of the eaftern prince. See the pearly tears
rolling off the buds of the expanding Granadilla * ;
behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixea ! what can
equal the rich golden flowers of the Canna lutea, which
ornament the banks of yon ferpentine rivulet, mean-
dering over the meadows ; the almoft endlefs va-
rieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the fwelling
green banks, affociated with the purple Verbena co-
rymbofa, Viola, pearly Gnaphalium, and filvery Per-
dicium ? How fantaftical looks the libertine Clito-
ria, mantling the lhrubs, on the villas Ikirting the
groves ! My morning excurfion finifhed, I returned
to my camp, breakfafted, then went on board
my boat, gently defcended the noble river, and
pafled by feveral openings of extenfive plains and
meadows, environing the eaft lake, charming be-
yond compare. At evening I came to at a good
harbour, under the high banks of the river, and
relied during the night amidll the fragrant groves,
expofed to the conllant breezes from the river :
here I made ample colledlions of fpecimens and grow-
ing roots of curious vegetables, which kept me" fully
employed the greatell part of the day ; and in the
evening arrived at a charming fpot on the eaft

* Pa(T. flora incarnata, called May-Apple.

bank.

TRAVELS IN

T54

bank, which I had marked on my aicent up the ri-
ver, where I made fome addition to my collec-
tions ; and the next day I employed myfeif in the
lame manner, putting into fhore frequently, at con-
venient places, which I had noticed; and in the
evening arrived again at the upper {lore, where I
had the pleafure of finding my old friend, the trader,
in good health and cheerful, and his affairs in a j
profperous way. There were alfo a finall party j
of Indians here, who had lately arrived with dteir j
hunts to purchafe goods. I continued a few days
at this poll, fearching its environs for curious ve-
getable productions, collecting feeds and planting i
growing roots in boxes, to be tranfported to the
lower trading houfe.

Now, having procured neceflaries to accommo-
date me on my voyage down to the lower tore, 1
bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job*
Wiggens, embarked alone on board my little for-
tunate veflfel, and fet fail. I chofe to follow the .
eafternmoft channel of the river to the Great Lake,
becaufe it ran by high banks and bluffs of the eaftern
main the greateft part of the diftance, which af- j
forded me an opportunity of obferving a far greater
variety of natural fubjects, than if I had taken the j
weftern or middle channel, which flowed through 1
fwamps and marfhes.

At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former l
fafe and plealant harbour, at the eaft cape of the
Great Lake, where 1 had noticed fome curious ,
fhrubs and plants ; here I refted, and on the fmooth
and gentle current launch again into the little ocean
of Lake George, meaning now, on my return, to
coaft his weftern fhores in fearch of new beauties in
the bounteous kingdom of Flora.

O

I was

NORTH AMERICA.

*55

I was however induced to deviate a little from
my intended courfe, and touch at the inchanting
little Ifie of Palms. This delightful fpot, planted by
nature, is almoft an entire grove of Palms, with a few
pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange,
and the animating Zanthoxylon. What a beauti-
tiful retreat is here ! bleffed unviolated fpot of earth,
rifing from the limpid waters of the lake : its fra-
grant groves and blooming lawns inverted and pro-
tected by encircling ranks of the Yucca gloriofa.
A fafcinating atmofphere furrounds this blifsful gar-
den; the balmy Lantana, ambrofial Citra, perfum-
ed Crinum, perfpiring their mingled odours, wafted
through Zanthoxylon groves. I at laft broke a-
way from the enchanting fpot, and ftepped on board
my boat, hoifted fail, and foon approached the coaft
of the main, at the cool eve of day : then travel-
ing a capacious femicircular cove of the lake, verged
by low, extenfive graffy meadows, I at length by
dufk made a fafe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the
fea fhore or ftrand of a bold fandy point, which
defcended from the furf of the lake. This was a
clean fandy beach, hard and firm by the beating
furf, when the wind fets from the eaft coaft. I
drew up my light veftel on the Hoping Ihore, that
Ihe might be fafe from the beating waves in cafe of
a fudden ftorm of wind in the night. A few yards
back the land was a little elevated, and over-
grown with thickets of ft) rubs and low trees, con-
fiding chiefly of Zanthoxylon, Olea Americana,
Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptelea, Ha-
lefia, Querci, Myrica cerifera, and others. Thefe
groves were but low, yet fufficiently high to fhel-
ter me from the chilling dews; and being but a
few yards diftance from my veftel, here I fixed my
encampment. A brifk wind arifing from the lake,

drove

TRAVELS IN

156

drove away the clouds of mufquitoes into the thick-
ets. I now, with difficulty and induftry, collected
a iufficiency of dry wood to keep up a light during
the night, and to roaft fome trout which I had caught
when defcending the river : their heads I ftewed in
the juice of Oranges, which, with boiled rice, af-
forded me a wholefome and delicious fupper : I hung
the remainder of my broiled fifh on the fnags of
fome fhrubs over my head. I at laft, after recon-
noitring my habitation, returned, fpread abroad
my fkins and blanket upon the clean fands by my
fire fide, and betook myfelf to repofe.

How glorious the powerful fun, minifter of the
Moft High in the rule and government of this earth,
leaves our hemifphere, retiring from our fight
beyond the weftern forefts ! I behold with gra-
titude his departing fmiles, tinging the fleecy rofe-
ate clouds, now riding far away on the eaftern ho-
rizon ; behold they vanifh from fight in die azure
Ikies !

All now filent and peaceable, I fuddenly fell
afleep. At midnight I awake ; when, raifing my
head ere ft, I find myfelf alone in the wildernefs of
Florida, on the fhores of Lake George. Alone in-
deed, but under the care of the Almighty, and pro-
tefted by the invifible hand of my guardian angel.

When quite awake, I ftarted at the heavy tread
of fome animal j the dry limbs of trees upon the
ground crack under his feet; the clofe fhrubby thick-
ets part and bend under him as he rufhes off.

I rekindle my fleepy fire; lay in contaft the
exfoliated fmoking brands damp with the dew of
heaven.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

157

The bright flame afcends and illuminates the
ground and groves around me.

When looking up, I found my fijh carried of£
though I had thought them fafe on the Ihrubs, juft
ove^my head; but their fcent, carried to a great
diftanceby the damp nofturnal breezes, I fuppofe
were too powerful attractions to relut.

Perhaps it may not be time loft, to reft a
while here, and reflea on the unexpe&ed and un-
accountable incident, which however pointed out
to me an extraordinary deliverance or proteftion
of my life, from the rapacious wolf that Hole my
filh from over my head.

How much eafler and more eligible might it have
been for him to have leaped upon my bread in the
dead of deep, and torn my throat, which would
have inftantly deprived me of life, and then glut-
ted his ftomach for the prefent with my warm olood,
and dragged off my body, which would have made
a feaft afterwards for him and his howling affociates .

I fay, would not this have been a wifer ftep, than
to have made protrafted and circular approaches,
and then after, by chance, efpying the over
my head, with the greateft caution and filence
rear up, and take them off the fnags one by one,
then make off with them, and that fo cunningly as
not to awaken me until he had fairly accomplilhed
his purpofe ?

The morning being clear, 1 fat fail with a fa-
vourable breeze, coafting along the fhores; when
on a fudden the waters became tranfparent, and
difcovered the fandy bottom, and the feveral na-
tions of filh, palling and repairing each other. Fol-
6 lowing

TRAVELS IV

I58

lowing this courfe I was led to the cape of the little
river, defcending from Six Mile Springs, and mean-
dering fix miles from its fource through green mea-
dows. I entered this pellucid flream, failing over
the heads of innumerable fquadrons of fifh, which, al-
though many feet deep in the water, were dillinctly
to be feen. I palled by charming ifiets of flouri fil-
ing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Afh/ Maple, Nyfla, and
others. As I approached the diftant high foreft on
the main, tire river widened, floating fields of the
green Piftia furrounded me, the rapid dream wind-
ing through them. What an alluring fcene was now
before me ! A vail bafon or little lake of eryftal
waters, half encircled by fwelling hills, clad with
Orange and odoriferous lllicium groves, the tower-
ing Magnolia, itlelf a grove, and the exalted Palm,
as if confcious of their tranfcendent glories, tolled
about their lofty heads, painting, with mutable
• fiiades, the green floating fields beneath. The fo-
' cial prattling coot enrobed in blue, and the fqueel-
ing water-hen, with wings half expanded, tripped
after each other, over the watery mirrour.

I put in at an ancient landing place, which is a
Hoping afeent to a level gralfy plain, an old In-
dian field. As I intended to make my moll confi-
derable collections at this place, I proceeded im-
mediately to fix my encampment but a few yards
from my fafe harbour, where I fecurely faltened
my boat to a Live Oak which overlhadowed my
port.

After collecting a good quantity of fire-wood,
as it was about the middle of the afternoon, I re-
folved to reconnoitre the ground about my encamp-
ment. Having penetrated the groves next to me,
I came to the open forefts, confiding of exceed-

NORTH AMERICA.

159

ino-ly tall ftraight Pines (Pinus Paluftris) that flood
at°a confiderable diftance from each other, through
which appeared at N. W. an almoft unlimited plain
of grafly favannas, embelliihed with a chain of lhal-
fow ponds, as far as the fight could reach. Here
is a fpecies of Magnolia that affociates with the
Gordonia lafianthus ; it is a tall tree, fixty or eighty
feet in heighth ; the trunk ftraight; its head termi-
nating in the form of a fharp cone ; the leaves are
oblong, lanceolate, of a fine deep green, and glau-
cous beneath ; the flowers are large, perfectly white
and extremely fragrant ; with refpect to its flowers
and leaves, it differs very little from the Magnolia
glauca. The filvery whitenefs of the leaves of this
tree had a ftriking and pleafing effedt on the fight,
as it flood amidft the dark green of the Quercus
dentata, Nyfla fylvatica, Nyf. aquatica, Gordonia
lafianthus, and many others of the fame hue.
The tall afpiring Gordonia lafianthus, which now
flood in my view in all its fplendour, is every way
deferring of our admiration. Its thick foliage, of
a dark green colour, is flowered over with large
milk-white fragrant bloffoms, on long (lender elaf-
tic peduncles, at the extremities of its numerous
branches, from the bofom of the leaves, and renewed
every morning; and that in fuch incredible pro-
fufion, that the tree appears filvered- over with them,
and the ground beneath covered with the fallen
flowers. It at the fame time continually pufhes
forth new twigs, with young buds on them ; and
in the winter and fpring, the third year’s leaves, now
partly concealed by the new and perfect ones, are
gradually changing colour, from green to golden
yellow, from that to a fcarlet, from fcarlet to crim-
fon ; and laftly to a brown ifh purple, and then fall

to

5 ,

100 travels in

to the ground. So that the Gordonia lafianthus
may be laid to change and renew its garments
every morning throughout the year; and every day
appears with unfading luftre. And moreover, after
the general flowering is pall, there is a thin fuc-
ceffion of fcattenng bloffoms to be ieen, on fome
parts of the tree, almoft every day throughout the
remaining months, until the floral feafon returns
again. Its natural fituation, when growing, is on
the edges of fhallow ponds, or low wet grounds on
rivers, in a fandy foil, the nearefl: to the water of
any other tree, fo that in droughty lealons its long
ferpentine roots which run near or upon the furface
of the earth, may reach into the water. When
the tree has arrived to the period of perfect mag-
nitude, it is fixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high,
forming a pyramidal head. The wood of old trees
when fawn into plank is defervedly admired in ca-
binet-work or furniture j it has a cinnamon coloured
ground, marbled and veined with many colours :
the inner bark is ufed for dying a reddifh or forrel
colour; it imparts this colour to wool, cotton,
linen, and drefled deer ikins, and is highly efteemed
by tanners.

The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna coralloden-
drum, and the Cadtus opuntia, grow here in great
abundance and perfection. The firft grows in the
open pine forefts, in tufts or clumps, a large co-
nical ftrobile difcloflng its large coral red fruit,
which appears Angularly beautiful amidfl: the deep
green fern-like pinnated leaves.

The Erythryna corallodendrum is fix or eight
feet high; its prickly limbs ftride and wreathe about
with lingular freedom, and its fpikes of crimfon
flowers have a fine effedt amidfl; the delicate foliage.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

i6r

The Cadtus opuntia is very tall, eredt, and large,
and ftrong enough to bear the weight of a man :
fome are feven or eight feet high : the whole plant
or tree feems to be formed of great oval comprefled
leaves or articulations ■, thofe near the earth con-
tinually increafe, magnify and indurate as the tree
advances in years, and at length lofe the bright
green colour and glofly furface of their youth, ac-
quiring a ligneous quality, with a whitifh fcabrous
cortex. Every part of the plant is nearly deftitute
of aculea, or thofe fafcicles of barbed briitles which
are in fuch plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig.
The cochineal infedts were feeding on the leaves.
The female of this infedt is very large and flefhy, co-
vered with a fine white filk or cottony web, which
feels always moift or dewy, and feems defigned by
nature to protedt them from the violent heat of the
fun. The males are very fmall in comparifon to the
females, and but very few in number: they each
have two oblong pellucid wings. The large poly-
petalous flowers are produced on the edges of the
laft year’s leaves, are of a fine fplendid yellow,
and are fucceeded by very large pear-lhaped fruit,
of a dark livid purple when ripe : its pulp is charged
with a juice of a fine tranfparent crimfon colour,
and has a cool pleafant tafte, fomewhat like that of
a pomegranate. Soon after eating this fruit the urine
becomes of the fame crimfon colour, which very
much furprifes and affrights a ftranger, but is attend-
ed with no other ill confequence ; on the contrary/ it
is eiteemed wholefome, though powerfully diuretic.

On the left hand of thofe open forefts and fa van -
nas, &s we turn our eyes fouthward, fouth-weft
and weft, we behold an endlefs wild defect the
upper ftratum of the earth of which is a fine white
land, with fmall pebbles, and at fome diftance ap-

M i pears

Travels in

£62

pears entirely covered with low trees and flirubs of
various kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf
Sweet Bay, (Laurus Borbonia) Olea Americana, Mo-
rns rubra, Myrica cerifera, Ptelea, iEfculus pavia,
Quercus Ilex, glandifer, maritima, foliis
cuneiformibus obfolete trilobis minoribus, pu-
mila, Rhamnus frangula, Halefia diptera, & terrap-
tera, Cafline, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa John-
fonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibifcus fpinifex,
Zanthoxylon, Hopea tin&oria, Sideroxylum, with
a multitude of other Ihrubs, many of which were
new to me, and fome of them admirably beautiful
and fingular. One of them particularly engaged my
notice, which, from its fructification, I took to be
a fpecies of Cacalia. It is an evergreen fhrub, about
fix or eight feet high; the leaves are generally
fomewhat cuneiform, ftefhy, and of a pale whitilh
green, both furfaces being covered with a hoary
pubefcence and veficuke, that when prefled feels
clammy, and emits an agreeable fcent ; the afcend-
ent branches terminate with large tufts or corymbes
of rofe coloured flowers, of the fame agreeable
fcent ; thefe clufters of flowers, at a diftance, look
like a large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower (Syn-
genefia Polyg. TEqul. Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla,
foliis cuneiformibus, carnofis, papil. vifcidis.

Here is alfo another fpecies of the fame genus,
but it does not grow quite fo large ; the leaves are
i mailer, of a yet duller green colour, and the flowers
are of a pale rofe ; they are both valuable evergreens.

The trees and fhrubs which cover thefe extenfive
wilds, are about five or fix feet high, and feem
to be kept down by the annual firing of the deferts,
rather than the barrennefs of the foil, as I faw a
few large Live Oaks, Mulberry trees and Hicco-

NOkTH AMERICA*

1 63

rfes, which evidently have withftood the devouring
flames. Thefe adjoining wild plains, forefts, and
favannas, are fituated lower than the hilly groves on
the banks of the lake and river; but what fhould be
the natural caufe of it I cannot even pretend to
conjecture, unlefs one may fuppofe that thofe high
hills, w'hich we call bluffs, on the banks of this
great river and its lakes, and which fupport thofe
magnificent groves and high forefts, and are gene-
rally compofed of fhells and fand, were thrown up
to their prefent heighth by the winds and waves,
when the bed of the river was nearer the level of
the prefent furface of the earth ; but then, to reft
upon fuch a fuppofition, would be admitting that
the waters were heretofore in greater quantities
than at this time, or that their prefent channels and
receptacles are worn deeper into the earth.

I now directed my fteps towards my encamp-
ment, in a different direction. I feated myfelf
upon a /welling green knoll, at the head of the cryf-
♦ tal bafon. Near me, on the left, was a point or
projection of an entire grove of the aromatic Illi-
cium Floridanum ; on my right and all around be-
hind me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and
Magnolias interfperfed ; in front, juft under my feet,
was the inchanting and amazing cryftal fountain,
which inceffandy threw up, from dark, rocky ca-
verns below, tons of water every minute, form-
ing a bafon, capacious enough for large fhal-
lops to ride in, and a creek of four or five feet
depth of water, and near twenty yards over, which
meanders fix miles through green meadows, pour-
ing its limpid waters into the great Lake George,
where they feem to remain pure and unmixed. A-
bout twenty yards from the upper edge of the bafon,

M a and

TRAVELS IN

164

and diredlly oppofite to the mouth or outlet of the
creek, is a continual and amazing ebullition, where
the waters are thrown up in fuch abundance and
amazing force, as to jet and fwell up two or three
feet above the common lurface: white land and fmall
particles of fhells are thrown up with the waters,
near to the top, when they diverge from the cen-
tre, fubfide with the expanding flood, and gently
fink again, forming a large rim or funnel round
about the aperture or moudi of the fountain, which
is a vaft perforation through a bed of rocks, the
ragged points of which are projected out on every
fide. Thus far I know to be matter of real fact,
and I have related it as near as I could conceive or
exprefs myfelf. But there are yet remaining fcenes
inexpreflibly admirable and pleaflng.

Behold, for inftance, a vaft circular expanfe be-
fore you, the waters of which are fo extremely
clear as to be abfolutely diaphanous or tranfparent
as the ether; the margin of the bafon ornamented
with a great variety of fruitful and floriferous trees,
ftirubs, and plants, the pendant golden Orange
dancing on the furface of the pellucid waters, the
balmy air vibrating with the melody of the merry
birds, tenants of the encircling aromatic grove.

At the fame inftant innumerable bands of fifli
are feen, fome clothed in the moft brilliant colours;
the voracious crocodile ftretched along at full length,
as tire great trunk of a tree in fize ; the devouring
garfifh, inimical trout, and all the varieties of
gilded painted bream; the barbed catfifh, dread-
ed fting-ray, fkate, and flounder, fpotted bafs,
fheeps head and ominous drum ; . all in their fepa-
rate bands and communities, with free and unluf-

picious

NORTH AMERICA.

picious intercourfe performing their evolutions:
there are no figns of enmity, no attempt to devour
each other ; the different bands feem peaceably and
complaifantly to move a little afide, as it were to
make room for others to pafs by.

But behold yet fomething far more admirable,
fee whole armies defcending into an abyfs, into the
mouth of the bubbling fountain: they difappear! are
they gone for ever? is it real ? I raiie my eyes with
terror and aftonifhment ; I look down again to
the fountain with anxiety, when behold them as
it were emerging from the blue ether of another
world, apparently at a vaft diftance ; at their firft
appearance, no bigger than flies or minnows ; now
gradually enlarging, their brilliant colours begin to
paint the fluid.

Now they come forward rapidly, and inftantly
emerge, with the elaftic expanding column of crys-
talline waters, into the circular bafon or funnel:
fee now how gently they rife, fome upright, others
obliquely, or feem to lie as it were on their fldes,
fuffering themfelves to be gently lifted or borne up
by the expanding fluid towards the furface, fail-
ing or floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether :
then again they as gently defcend, diverge and move
off; when they rally, form again, and rejoin their
kindred tribes.

This amazing and delightful fcene, though real,
appears at firft but as a piece of excellent paint-
ing ; there feems no medium ; you imagine the
picture to be within a few inches of your eyes, and
that you may without the leaft difficulty touch any
one of the fifh, or put your finger upon the croco-
dile’s eye, when it really is twenty or thirty feet
under water.

M 3 And

TRAVELS I IT

166

And although this paradile of fifh may fccm to
exhibit a juft reprefentation of the peaceable and
happy ftate of nature which exifted before the fall,
yet in reality it is a mere reprefentation; for the
nature of the fifh is the fame as if they were in Lake
George or the river ; but here the water or element
in which they live and move, is fo perfe&ly clear
and tranfparent, it places them all on an equality
with regard to their ability to injure or efcape
from one another ; (as all river filh of prey, or fuch
as feed upon each other, as well as the unwieldy
crocodile, take their prey by furprife ; fecreting
themfelves under covert or in ambulh, until an
opportunity offers, when they rulh fuddenly upon
them:) but here is no covert, no ambulh; here the
trout freely pafles by the very nofe of the alligator,
and laughs in his face, and the bream by the trout.

But what is really furprifing is, that the confciouf-
nefs of each others fafety, or l'ome other latent caufe,
ihould fo abfolutely alter their conduct, for here is
not the leaft attempt made to injure or difturb one
another.

The fun palling below the horizon, and night ap-
proaching, I arofe from my feat, and proceeding on
arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, fupped and
repofed peaceably. Rifing early, I employed the
fore part of the day in colledting fpecimens ot grow->
ing roots and feeds. In the afternoon, I left thefe
Elyfian fprings and the aromatic groves, and brilkly
defeended the pellucid little river, re-entering the
great lake. The wind being gentle and fair for
Mount Royal, I hoifted fail, and fuccefsfully crofting
the N. weft bay, about nine miles, came to at
Rocky Point, the weft cape or promontory, as we
enter the river defeending towards Mount Royal :

thel'e

NORTH AMERICA. I67

thefe rocks arc horizontal flabs or flat mafles,.
riling out of the lake two or three feet above its
furfacc, and feem an aggregate compofition or
concrete of fand, fhells, and calcareous cement, of a
dark gray or dufky colour. The Hones are hard and
firm enough for buildings, and ferve very well fox
light hand mill-ftones and when calcined afford a
coarfe lime : they lie in vail horizontal malfes
upon one another, from one to two or three feet in
thicknefs, and are eafiiy feparated and broken to
any fize or form, for the purpofe of building. Rocky
Point is an airy, cool, and delightful fituation, com-
manding a mod ample and pleafing profpeft of the
lake and its environs ; but here being no wood, I
re-embarked and failed down a little farther to the
ifland in the bay, where I went on fhore at a mag-
nificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, defir-
ous of augmenting my colleftions. I arofe early
next morning, and after ranging the groves and
favannas, returned, embarked again, and defend-
ing, called at Mount Royal, where I enlarged my
collections; and bidding adieu to the gendeman
and lady who refided there, and who treated me with
great holpitality on my afcent up the river, arrived
}D the cyening at the lower trading houfe.

M 4

CHAP.

TRAVELS IN

l6 S

CHAP. VI.

On my return from my voyage to the upper ftore,

I underftood from the trading company defigned for
Cufcowilla, that they had been very adtive in their
preparations, and would be ready to fet off in a few
days. I therefore availed myfelf of the little time
allowed me to fecure and preferve my cohesions,
againft the arrival of the trading fchooner, which
was hourly expedted, that every thing might be in
readinefs to be fhipped on board her, in' cafe fhe
fhould load again and return for Savanna during
my abfence.

Every neceffary being now in readinefs, early
on a fine morning we proceeded, attended by four
men under the condudt of an old trader, whom Mr.
M‘Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeper
and other chiefs of Cufcowilla, on the lubjedt of re-
eftablifhing the trade, &c. agreeable to the late
treaty of St. Augufline.

For the firft four or five miles we travelled weft-
ward, over a perfectly level plain, which appeared
before and on each fide of us, as a charming green
meadow, thinly planted with low fpreading Pine
trees (P. paluftris). The upper ftratum of the earth
is a fine white cryftalline fand, the very upper fur-
face of which being mixed or incorporated with
the albes of burnt vegetables, renders it of fuffi-
cient ftrength or fertility to clothe itfelf perfedtly
with a very great variety of graffes, herbage, and
remarkably low fhrubs, together w'ith a very dwarf
Jpecies of Palmetto (Corypha pumila ftipit. ferratis).

6 Of

NORTH AMERICA. 169

Of the low Ihrubs, many were new to me and of a
very pleafing appearance, particularly a fpecies of
annona (annona incarna, floribus grandioribus pani-
culatis); this grows three, four, or five feet high,
the leaves fomewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate,
attenuating down to the petiole, of a pale or light
green colour, covered with a pubefcence or fhort
fine down; the flowers very large, perfectly white
and fweet fcented, many connedled together on
large loofe panicles or fpikes ; the fruit of the fize
and form of a fmall cucumber, the Ikin or exterior
furface fomewhat rimofe or fcabrous, containing a
yellow pulp of the confidence of a hard cuftard,
and very delicious, wholefome food. This feems a
variety, if not the fame that I firft remarked, grow-
ing on the Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Char-
lotia, and many other places in Georgia and Eaft
Florida; and I obferved here in plenty, the very
dwarf decumbent annona, with narrow leaves, and
various flowers already noticed at Alatamaha (an-
nona pigmaea). Here is alfo abundance of the beau-
tiful little dwarf kalmia ciliata, already defcribed.
The white berried empetrum, a very pretty ever-
green, grows here on fomewhat higher and drier
knolls, in large patches or clumps, alfociated widi
olea Americana, feveral fpecies of dwarf querci
(oaks), vaccinium, Gordonia lafianthus, Andromeda
ferruginea, and a very curious and beautiful fhrub
which feems allied to the rhododendron, cafiine,
rhamnus frangula, Andromeda nitida, &c. which
being of dark green foliage, diverfify and enliven
the landfcape: but what appears very extraordinary,
is to behold here, deprefled and degraded, the glo-
rious pyramidal magnolia grandiflora, afiociated
amongft thefe vile dwarfs, and even fome of them
rifing above it, though not five feet high; yet ftill

Ihowing

TRAVELS IN

170

Ihowing large, beautiful and expanfive white fra-
grant blofloms, and great heavy cones, on (lender
procumbent branches, fome even lying on the earth ;
the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident
from the vaft excrdcent tuberous roots, covering
feveral feet of ground, from which thele (lender
fhoots fpring.

In fuch clumps and coverts are to be feen feveral
kinds of birds, particularly a fpecies of jay (pica
glandaria cerulea non criftata): they are generally
of an azure blue colour, have no creft or tuft of
feathers on the head, nor are they fo large as the
great crefted blue jay of Virginia, but are equally
clamorous. The towee birds (fringilla erythropthal-
irta) are very numerous, as are a fpecies of bluifh
gray butcher bird (lanius). Here were alfo lizards
and (hakes. The lizards were of that fpecies called
in Carolina, fcorpions: they are from five to fix
inches in length, of a (lender form ; the tail in par-
ticular is very long and fmall: they are of a yellow-
ilh clay colour, varied with longitudinal lines or
ftripes of a dufky brown colour, from head to tail :
they are wholly covered with very fmall fquamae,
vibrate their tail, and dart forth and brandilh their
forked tongue after the manner of ferpents, when they
are furprifed or in purfuit of their prey, which are
fcarabei, locuftae, mufci, and other infedts; but I
do not learn that their bite is poifonous, yet I have
obferved cats to be fick foon after eating them.
After palling over this extenfive, level, hard, wet
favanria, we eroded a fine brook or rivulet; the
water cool and pleafint; its banks adorned with va-
rieties of trees and (hrubs, particularly the delicate
cyrilla racemi flora, chionanthus, clethra, nyfia
fylvatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formo-
fifiima: and . here were great quantities of a very

NORTH AMERICA.

171

large and beautiful filix ofmunda, growing in great
tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet, we palled
over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered
with a fine Ihort grads, with abundance of low law
palmetto, and a few fhrubby pine trees, quercus ni-
gra, quercus fmuata or fcarlet oak: then the path
defcends to a wet bay-gale; the ground a hard, line,
white fand, covered with black flufh, which conti-
nues above two miles, when it gently rifes the higher
fand hills, and diredlly after palTes through a fine
grove of young long-leaved pines. The foil leaned
here, loole, brown, coarfe, fandy loam, though fer-
tile. The afcent of the hill, ornamented with a va-
riety and profulion of herbaceous plants and grades,
particularly amaryllis atamafco, clitoria, phlox, ipo-
mea, convolvulus, verbena corymbofa, ruellia, viola,
&c. A magnificent grove of ftately pines, fuc-
ceeding to the expanfive wild plains we had a long
time traverfed, had a pleading effeth, routing the
faculties of the mind, awakening the imagination by
its fublimity, and arrefting every aftive, inquifitive
idea, by the variety of the fcenery, and the folemn
fymphony of the heady Wefbern breezes, playing
inceflandy, rifing and falling through the thick and
wavy foliage.

The pine groves palled, we immediately find our-
felves on the entrance of the expanfive airy pine fo-
refls, on parallel chains of low fwelhng mounds,
called the Sand Hills; their afcent do eafy, as to be
almoft imperceptible to the progreflive traveller;
yet at a diftant view before us in fome degree ex-
hibit the appearance of the mountainous dwell of
the ocean immediately after a tempeft; but yet, as
we approach them, they infenfibly difappear, and
fcem to be loft; and we fhould be ready to conclude

all

TRAVELS IN

/ 172

all to be a vifionary fcene, were it not for the fpark-
ling ponds and lakes, which at the fame time gleam
through the open forefts, before us and on every
fide, retaining them in the eye, until we come
up with them. And at laft die imagination re-
mains flattered and dubious, by their uniformity,
being moftly circular or elliptical, and almoft fur-
rounded with expand ve green meadows; and al-
ways a pidlurefque dark grove of live oak, magno-
lia, gordonia, and the fragrant orange, encircling
a rocky fhaded grotto of tranfparent water, on
fome border of the pond or lake; which, without
the aid of any poetic fable, one might naturally
fuppofe to be the facred abode or temporary reft-
dence of the guardian fpirit; but is actually the
poflefflon and retreat of a thundering abfolute cro-
codile.

Arrived early in the evening at the Halfway
pond, where we encamped and flayed all night.
This lake fpreads itfelf in a Ipacious meadow, be-
neath a chain of elevated fand hills: the Iheet of
water at this time was about three miles in cir-
cumference ; the upper end, juft under the hills,
furrounded by a crefcent of dark groves, which
Ihaded a rocky grotto. Near this place was a Hop-
ing green bank, terminating by a point of flat
rocks, which projected into the lake, and formed
one point of the crefcent that partly furrounded the
vaft grotto or bafon of tranfparent waters, which
is called by the traders a fink-hole, a Angular kind
of vortex or conduit, to the fubterranean recepta-
cles of the waters; but though the waters of thefe
ponds, in the fummer and dry feafons, evidendy tend
towards thefe finks, yet it is fo flowly and gradually,
as to be almoft imperceptible. There is always a

meandering

NORTH AMERICA.

173

meandering channel wmdmg

MTJler branches, flow.,
conveying them along into the lake, and finally in-
to the bafon, and with them nattons of the finny

tribes.

Toft by the little cape of flat rocks, we fixed our

encampment/where I enjoyed a comprchenfive and
varied Pfcene, the verdant meadows fpread abroad,
charmingly decorated by green points of grafly lawns
Ti dTk promontories of wood-land, projefling into

die green plains.

Behold now at ftill evening, the fun yet ftreakmg
the embroidered favannas, armies of hfli weie pu -
fuing their pilgrimage to the grand pellucid fountain;
and when here arrived, all quiet and peaceable, en-
circling the little cerulean hemitphere, they defce d
into the dark caverns of the earth; where, probably,
they are feparated from each other, by innumerable
paths, or fecret rocky avenues; and after encounter-
ing various obftacles, and beholding new and un-
thought of fcenes of pleafure and difguft, after many
days abfence from the furface of the world emerge
.again from the dreary vaults, and appear exulting in
gladnefs, and fporting in the transparent waters oi
dome far diftant lake.

The various kinds of fifh and amphibious ani-
mals, that inhabit thefe inland lakes and waters, may
be mentioned here, as many of them heie anem-
bled, pafs and repafs in the lucid grotto: nrlt the
crocodile alligator: the great brown fpotted garr,
accoutred in an impenetrable coat of mail : this ad-
mirable animal may be termed a cannibal amongft
fifh, as filh are his prey ; when fully grown he is

from

travels w

174

from five to fix feet in length, and of proportion-
able thicknefs, of a dufky brown colour, fpotted with
black. The Indians make ufe of their iharp teeth
to fcratch or bleed themfelves with, and their pointed
fcales to arm their arrows. This filh is fometimes
eaten, and, to prepare them for food, they cover
them whole in hot embers, where they bake them;
the Ikin with the fcales eafily peels off, leaving the
meat white and tender.

The mud filh is large, thick or round, and two
feet in length ; his meat white and tender, but foft
and taftes of the mud, and is not much efteemed.
The great devouring trout and catfiih are in abun-
dance ; the golden bream or funfilh, the red bellied
bream, the filver or white bream, the great yellow
and great black or blue bream, alfo abound here.
The laft of thefe mentioned, is a large, beautiful,
and delicious filh; when full grown they are nine
inches in length, and five to fix inches in breadth ;
the whole body is of a dull blue or indigo colour,
marked with tranlverfe lifts or zones of a darker co-
lour, fcatteringly powdered with fky blue, gold and
red fpeclts; fins and tail of a dark purple or livid
fielh colour; the ultimate angle of the branchioftega
forming a fpatula, the extreme end of which is
broad and circular, terminating like the feather of
the peacock’s train, and having a brilliant fpot or eye
like it, being delicately painted with a fringed bor-
der of a fire colour.

The great yellow or particoloured bream is in
form and proportion much like the forementioned,
but larger, from a foot to fifteen inches in length;
his back from head to tail is ol a dark clay and dufky
colour, with tranfverfe daffies or blotches, of red-
difli dull purple, or bluifh, according to different

expofures

NORTH AMERICA.

*75

expo Cures to light; the fides and belly of a bright
pale yellow; the belly faintly dained with vermilion
red, infenfibly blended with the yellow on the Tides,
and all garnifhed with fiery, blue, green, gold and
filver fpecks on the feales; the branchioflega is of a
yellowifh clay or draw colour; the lower edge or
border next the opening of the gills, is near a quar-
ter of an inch in breadth, of a fea green or ma-
rine blue ; the ulterior angle protends backwards to
a confiderable length, in the form of a fpatula or
feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of a
deep black or crow colour, refle&ing green and
blue, and bordered round with fiery red, fomewhat
like red fealing wax, reprefenting a brilliant ruby on
the fide of the fifii; the fins reddifh, edged with a
dove colour; it is defervedly efleemed a mod ex-
cellent fifii.

Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, and
ponds of Ead Florida, the great foft (helled tor-
toifes*: they are very large when full grown, from
twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremely
fat and delicious, but if eaten to excefs, are apt to
purge people not accudomed to eat their meat.

They are fiat and very thin; two feet and a half
in length, and eighteen inches in breadth acrofs the
back; in form, appearance, and texture, very much
reiembling the fea turtle : the whole back fhell,
except the vertebra or ridge, which is not at all
prominent, and ribs on each fide, is foft or carti-
laginous, and eafily reduced to a jelly when boil-
ed; the anterior and poderior extremities of the
back fhell, appear to be emboffed with round,

* Tcftudo nafo cylindraceo elongato, truncato.

3

horny

176

travels in

horny warts or tubercles j the belly or nether flicll
is but h nail and femicartilaginous, except a nar-
row crofs bar connedting it at each end with the
back fhell, which is hard and ofieous; the head is
large and clubbed, of nearly an oval form; the up-
per mandible, however, is protended forward, and
truncated, lomewhat refembling a fwine’s fnout, at
the extreme end of which the noftrils are placed;
on each fide of the root or bafe of this probofcis are
the eyes, which are large; the upper beak is hook-
ed and fharp, like a hawk’s bill ; the lips and cor-
ners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled, and barb-
ed with long, pointed warts, which he can projedt
and contradt at pleafure, which gives the creature
a frightful and difagreeable countenance. They
bury themfelves in the Jlufhy bottoms of rivers
and ponds, under the roots of flags and other
aquatic herbage,, leaving a hole or aperture juft
fufficient for their head to play through; to fuch
places they withdraw themfelves w'hen hungry, and
there feize their prey by furprife, darting out their
heads as quick as lightning, upon the unwary ani-
mal that unfortunately ftrolls within their reach:
they can extend their neck to a furprifing length^
which enables them to feize young fowl fwimmin®
on the furface of the water above them, which they
inftantly drag down. They are feen to raife their
heads above the furface of the water, in the depths
of the lakes and rivers, and blow, caufing a faint
puffing noife, fomewhat like a porpoife; probably
this is for paflime, or to charge themfelves with a
proper fupply of frefh air. They are carnivorous, *
feeding on any animal they can feize, particularly
young ducks, frogs, and fifh.

We had a large and fat one ferved up for our

fupper.

I

NORTH AMERICA. 177

fupper, which I at firft apprehended we had made a
very extravagant wafte of, not being able to con-
fume one half of its flefli, though excellently well
cooked: my companions, however, feemed regard-
lefs, being in the midft of plenty and variety, at any
rime within our reach, and to be obtained with little
or no trouble or fatigue on our part; when herds of
deer were feeding in the green meadows before us j
flocks of turkeys walking in the groves around us,
and myriads of filh, of the greateft variety and de-
licacy, fporting in the cryftalline floods before our
eyes.

The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crooked
limbs of the lofty pines, at a little diftance from us,
fharpening their beaks, in low debate, waiting to
regale themfelves on the offals, after our departure
from camp.

At the return of the morning, by the powerful
influence of light, the pulfe of nature becomes more
adtive, and the univerfal vibration of life infenfibly
and irrefiftibly moves the wondrous machine. How
cheerful and gay all nature appears ! Hark ! the mu-
fical favanna cranes, ere the chirping fparrow flirts
from his grafiy couch, or the glorious fun gilds the
tops of the pines, fpread their expanfive wings, leave
their lofty roods, and repair to the ample plains.

From half-way pond, we proceed Weftward,
through the high forefts of Cufcowilla.

The appearance of the earth for five or fix miles
prefented nearly the fame fcenes as heretofore.

Now the fand ridges became higher, and their
bates proportionably more exterifivej the favannas

N and

TRAVELS IN

17S

and ponds more expanfive; the fummits of the ridges
more gravelly; here and there, heaps or piles of
rocks, emerging out of the fand and gravel: thefe
rocks are the fame fort of concrete of fand and Ihells
as noticed at St. Juan’s and the great lake. The
vegetable produ&ions nearly the fame as already
mentioned.

We gently defcended again over fand ridges, crofted
a rapid brook, ripling over the gravelly bed, hurry-
ing the tranfparent waters into a vaft and beautiful
lake, through a fine fruitful orange grove, which
magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to a great
diftance on each fide of the capes of the creek. This
is a fine fituation for a capital town. Thefe waters
are tributary to St. Juan’s.

We alighted to refrelh ourfelves, and adjuft our
packs. Here are evident figns and traces of a power-
ful fettlement of the ancients.

Sat off again, and continued travelling over a
magnificent pine foreft, die ridges low, but their
bafes extenfive, with proportionable plains. The
Heady breezes gently and continually riling and fall-
ing, fill the high lonefome fore ft s with an awful re-
verential harmony, inexprelfibly fublime, and not to
be enjoyed any where, but in thefe native wild In-
dian regions.

Crofting another large deep creek of St. Juan's,
the country is a vaft level plain, and the foil good
for the diftance of four or five miles, though light
and fandy, producing a foreft of ftately pines and
laurels, with fome others; and a vaft profufion of
herbage, fuch as rudbeckia, helianthus, filphium,
polymnia, ruellia, verbena, rhexea, convolvulus, fo-

phora.

NORTH AMERICA.

179

£hora, glycine, vitia, clitorea, ipomea, urtica, falvia
graveolens, viola, and many more. How cheerful
and focial is the rural converfe of the various tribes
of tree frogs, whilft they look to heaven for prolific
Ihowers! How harmonious the fhrill tuneful fongs
of the wood thrufh, and the foothing love lays of
the amorous cuckoo *, feated in the cool leafy
branches of the {lately magnolias and fhadowy elms,
maples and liquidambar, together with gigantic fa-
gus fylvatica, which {hade and perfume thefe fcquef-
tered groves ! How unexpected and enchanting the
enjoyment, after traverfmg a burning fandy de-
fend

Now,' again, we behold the open pine forefts, and
afcend the fandy hills, which continue for fome miles,
then gently defcend again, when a level expanfive
favanna plain prefents itfelf to view, which, after en-
tering, and proceeding on, becomes wet and covered
by a fine fhort grafs, with extenfive parterres of the
dwarf creeping palmetto, its ftipes fharply toothed
or ferrated, together with clumps of low fhrubs, as
kalmia, Andromeda, annona pygmea, myrica ceri-
fera, empetrum, vaccinidm, and others.

We now afcend a little again, and pafs through a
narrow pine foreft; when luddenly opens to view a
vaftly extenfive and fedgy marfh, expanding South-
erly like an open fan, feemingly as boundlefs as the
great ocean: our road eroding the head of it,
about three hundred yards over j the bottom here
Was hard fand, a foot or more under a foft muddy
furface. The traders informed me, that thefe vaft
marfhes he on the borders of a great lake, many
miles in length, in magnitude exceeding Lake

* Cuculus Cnrolinienfis.

N 2

George>

i8o

TRAVELS Ittf

George, and communicating with St. Juan’s by a
river *; its confluence above the lower ftore at the
Little Lake.

Obferved as we palled over the fand hills, the
dens of the great land tortoife, called gopher: this
ftrartge creacure remains yet undefcribed by hifto-
rians and travellers. The firfl: figns of this animal’s
exigence, as we travel Southerly, are immediately
after we crofs the Savanna River. It is to be
< ieen only on the high dry Sand hills. When arrivtd
at its greatefl: magnitude, the upper fhell is near
eighteen inches in length, and ten or twelve inches
in breadth; the back is very high, and the fhell
of a very hard bony fubftance, conflfting of many
regular compartments, united by futures, in the
manner of the other fpecies of tortoife, and covered
with thin horny plates. The nether or belly fhell
is large, and regularly divided tranfverfely into
five parts: thefe compartments are not knit toge-
ther like the futures of the fkull, or the back fhell
of the tortoife, but adhere, or are connected toge-
ther by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which ferves
as hinges for him to fhut up his body within his fhell
at pleafure. The fore part of the belly fhell towards
its extremity is formed fomewhat like a fpade, ex-
tends forward near three inches, and is about an inch
and an half in breadth; its extremity is a little bifid;
the pofterior divifion of the belly fhell is likewife
protended backwards confiderably, and is deeply
bifurcated.

The legs and feet are covered with flat horny
fquamas; he leems to have no clefts in them or
toes, but long flattifh nails or talons, fomewhat in

' Great Ockli-Waha.

refemblance

NORTH AMERICA.

181

refemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five
on the fore feet; the hind legs or feet appear as if
truncated, or as ftumps of feet, armed all round
with lharp, flattifh ftrong nails, the number unde-
termined or irregular; the head is of a moderate
fize ; the upper mandible a little hooked, the edges
hard and lharp; the eyes are large; the nofe pick-
ed; the nohrils near together and very minute;
the general colour of the animal is a light alh or
clay, and at a dihance, unlefs it is in motion,
any one would difregard or overlook it as a Hone
or an old Hump. It is altonilhing what a weight
one of thefe creatures will bear; it will eafily carry
any man handing on its back, on level ground.
They form great and deep dens in the fand hills,
calling out incredible quantities of earth. They are
eheemed excellent food. The eggs are larger than
a mulket ball, perfectly round, and the fhell hard.

After crolling over this point or branch of the
marfhes, we entered a noble foreh, the land level,
and the foil fertile, being a loofe, dark brown, coarfe
fandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation : the
foreh confihed of orange groves, overtopped by grand
magnolias, palms, live oaks, juglans cinerea, mo-
ms rubra, fagus fylvatica, tilia, and liquidambar;
with various kinds of fhrubs and herbaceous plants,
particularly callicarpa, halefia, fambucus, zanthoxy-
lon, ptelea, rhamnus frangula, rudbeckia, filphi-
um, polymnia, indigo fera, fophora, falvia graveo-
lens, &c. We were cheerfully received in this
hofpitable fhade, by various tribes of birds; their
fprighdy fongs feemed a prelude to the vicinity of
human habitations. This magnificent grove was a
yving ol the vah forehs lying upon the coah of the
great and beautiful lake of Cufcowilla, at no great

N 3 dihance

I 82

TRAVELS IN

diftance from us. Continuing eight or nine miles
through this fublime fore ft, we entered on an open
foreft of lofty pines and oaks, on gently fwelling fand
hills, and presently faw the lake, its waters fparkling
through the open groves. Near the path was a large
artificial mound of earth, on a moft charming, high
fituation, fuppofed to be the work of the ancient
Floridans or Yamafees; with other traces of an In-
dian town. Here were three or four Indian habita-
tions; the women and children faluted us withcheer-
fulnefs and complaifance. After riding near a mile
farther, we arrived at Cufcowilla, near the banks:
a pretty brook of water ran through the town, and
entered the lake juft by.

We were welcomed to the town, and conduced
by the young men and maidens to the chief’s houfe,
which flood on an eminence, and was diftinguifhed
from the reft by its fuperior magnitude, a large flag
being hoifted on a high ftaff at one corner. We
immediately alighted: the chief, who is called the
Cowkeeper, attended by feveral ancient men, came
to us, and in a very free and fociable manner, fhook
our hands, or rather arms, (a form of falutation pe-
culiar to the American Indians) faying at the fame
time, “ You are come.” We followed him to an
apartment prepared for the reception of their
guefts.

The pipe being filled, it is handed around; after
which a large bowl, with what they call “ thin
drink,” is brought in and fet down tin a fmall low
table. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle ; each
pcrfon takes up in it as much as he pleafes, and after
drinking until fatisfied, returns it again into the.
bowl, puftnng the handle towards the next perfon ii}
the circle ; and fo it goes round.

A Aah

NORTH AMERICA.

i«3

After the ufual compliments and inquiries rela-
tive to our adventures, &c. the chief trader inform-
ed the Cowkeeper, in the prefence of his councilor
attendants, the purport of our bufinefs with which
he exprefled his fatisfaftion. He was then informed
what the nature of my errand was, and he received
me with complaifance, giving me unlimited permif-
fion to travel over the country for the purpofe of
collecting flowers, medicinal plants, &c. faluting m
by the name of Puc Puggy, or the Flower hunter,
recommending me to the friendlhip and protection
of his people.

The next day being agreed on to hold a council
and tranfact the bufinds of our embaffy, we ac-
quainted the chief with our intention of making oui
encampment on the borders of the great Alachua
savanna, and to return at the time appointed to
town, to attend the council according to agree-
ment.

Soon after we had fixed on the time and manner
of proceeding on the further iettlement of the treaty,
a confiderable number of Indians affembled around
their chief, when the convention turned to common
and familiar topics.

The chief is a tall well made man, very affable
and cheerful, about fixty years of age, his eyes lively
and full of fire, his countenance manly and placid,
yet ferocious, or what we call favage, his noie aqui-
line, his drefs extremely Ample, but his head trim-
med and ornamented in the true Creek mode. He
has been a great warrior, having then attending
him as flaves, many Yamafee captives, taken by
himfelf when young. They were dreffed better
h N 4 than

184

TRAVELS IN’

than he, and ferved and waited upon him with figns

ab)eft ^ear- The manners and cuttoms
ot the Alachuas, and moil of the lower Creeks or
biminoies, appear evidently tindured with Spanifh
civilization Their religious and civil ufages mani-
■ a prediledion for the Spanifh cuttoms. There
are feveral Chriftians among them, many of whom
wear little filver crucifixes, affixed to a wampum
collar round their necks, or fufpended by a fmall
chain upon their breaft. Thefe are faid to be bap-
tized 1 and notwithftanding moft of them fpeak and
underhand Spanifh, yet they have been the moft
bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards
ever had. The flaves, both male and female, are
permitted to marry amongft them: their children
are free, and confidered in every refped equal to
themfelvesj but the parents continue in a hate of
flavery as long as they live.

In obferving thefe Haves, we behold at once, in
their countenance and manners, the ftriking contrail
betwixt a hate of freedom and flavery. They are
the tameft, the moft abjed creatures that we can
poffibly imagine: mild, peaceable, and tradable,
they feem to have no will or power to ad but as di-
rected by their matters; whilft the free Indians, on
the contraiy, are bold, adive, and clamorous. They

differ as widely from each other as the bull from the
ox.

. The repaft is now brought in, confuting of veni-
fon, ftewed with bear’s oil, frefh corn cakes, milk,
and homony ; and our drink, honey and water, very
cool and agreeable. After partaking of this ban-
quet, we took leave and departed for the great fa-
vanna. 0

We

NORTH AMERICA.

i*5

We foon entered a level, grafly plain, inter-
fperfed with low, fpreading, three-leaved Pine-trees,
large patches of low fhmbs, confuting of Prinos
glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of
feveral fpecies, and many other fhrubs, with patches
of Palmetto. We continued travelling through
this favanna or bay-gale, near two miles, when the
land afcends a little ; we then entered a hommock
or dark grove, confiding of various kinds of trees,
as the Magnolia grandiflora, Corypha palma, Citrus
Aurantium, Quercus fempervirens, Morus rubra,
Ulmus fylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, riEfculus pa-
via, Liquidambar, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tinfto-
ria, Cercis, Cornus Florida, Plalefia diptera, Ha-
lefia tetraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa, An-
dromeda arborea, Sideroxylon fericium, Sid. tenax,
Vitis labrufca, Hedera arborea, Hedera quinquefo-
lia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunus Caroliniana (pr. flor.
racemofis, foliis fempervirentibus, lato-lanceolatis,
acuminatis, ferratis) Fagus fylvatica, Zanthoxylon
clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Frax-
inus excelfior, with many others already mention-
ed. The land ftill gently rifing, the foil fertile,
loofe, loamy, and of a dark brown colour. This
continues near a mile ; when at once opens to view
the mod fudden tranfition from darknefs to light,
that can poffibly be exhibited in a natural land-
fcape.

The extenfive Alachua favanna is a level green
plain, above fifteen miles over, fifty miles in cir-
cumference, and fcarcely a tree or bufh of any kind
to be feen on it. It is encircled with high, flopino-
hills, covered with waving foreds and fragrant
Orange groves, rifing from an exuberantly fertile foil.
The towering Magnolia grandifiora and tranfcen-

dent

186-

travels m

dent Palm, fland confpicuous amongfl them. Ac
the fame time are feen innumerable droves of cat-
tle ; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and fleek capri-
cious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their
cheerful, focial voices. Herds of fprightly deer,
fquadrons of the beautiful fleet Siminole horfe,
flocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the fo-
norous watchful crane, mix together, appearing
happy and contented in the enjoyment of peace,
till diflurbed and affrighted by the warrior man.
Behold yonder, coming upon them through the
darkened groves, fneakingly and unawares, the
naked red warrior, invading the Elyfian fields and
green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appear-
ance of the painted, fearlefs, uncontrouled, and free
Siminole, the peaceful innocent nations are at once
thrown into diforder and difmay. See the different
tribes and bands, how they draw towards each
other! as it were deliberating upon the general
good. Suddenly they fpeed off with their young
in the centre; but the roebuck fears him not: here
he lays himfelf down, bathes and flounces in the
cool flood. The red warrior, whofe plumed head
flafhes lightning, whoops in vain; his proud am-
bitious horfe ftrains and pants ; the earth glide?
from under his feet, his flowing mane whiffles in the
wind, as he comes up full of vain hopes. The
bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rifes up,
lifts aloft his antlered head, ere&s the white flag *,
and fetching a fhrill whiftle, fays to his fleet and free
affociates, “ follow ;” he bounds off, and in a few
minutes diflances his foe a mile ; fuddenly he flops,
turns about, and laughing fays, “ how vain ! go
chafe meteors in the azure plains above, or hunt
butterflies in the fields about your towns.”

* Alluding to His tail.

We

NORTH AM£RICA.

1S7

We approached the favanna at the fouth end by
2 narrow ifthmus ©f level ground, open to the light
of day, and clear of trees or bufhes, and not greatly
elevated above the common level, having on our
right a Ipacious meadow, embellifhed with a little
lake, one verge of which was not very diftant from
us ; its Ihore is a moderately high, circular bank,
partly encircling a cove of the pond, in tire form
of a half moon ; the water is clear and deep, and,
at the diftance of fome hundred yards, was a large
floating field (if I may fo exprefs myfelf) of the
Nymph tea nelumbo, with their golden bloflfoms wav-
ing to and fro on their lofty Items. Beyond thefe
fields of Nymphaea were fpacious plains, encompafled
by dark groves, opening to extenfive Pine forefts,
other plains ftill appearing beyond them.

This little lake and furrounding meadows would
have been alone fufficient to furprife and delight the
traveller; but being placed fo near the great fa-
vanna, the attention is quickly drawn off, and wholly
engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, va-
ried, and truly aftonifhing native wild lcenes of
landfcape and perfpeftive, there exhibited: how
is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus,
as it were, placed on the borders of a new world 1
On the firft view of fuch an amazing dilplay of the
wifdom and power of the fupreme author of nature,
the mind for a moment feems fufpended, and im-
prefled with awe.

This ifthmus being the common avCnue or road
of Indian travellers, we pitched our camp at a fmall
diftance from it, on a rifing knoll near the verge
of the favanna, under fome fpreading Live Oaks :
this fituation was open and airy, and gave us an un-
bounded prolpeft over the adjacent plains. Dewy

evening

1 8 S

TRAVELS IN

evening now came on ■, the animating breezes,
which cooled and tempered the meridian hours
of this fultry feafon, now gently ceafed ; the glori-
ous lovereign of day, calling in his bright beaming
emanations, left us in his abfence to the milder
government and proteftion of the filver queen of
night, attended by millions of brilliant luminaries.
The thundering alligator had ended his horrifying
roar the filver plumed gannet and ftork, the fage
and folitary pelican of the wildernefs, had already
retired to their filent noflurnal habitations, in the
neighbouring forefts ; the fonorous favanna cranes,
in well difciplined fquadrons, now rifing from the
earth, mounted aloft in fpiral circles, far above the
denfe atmofphere of the humid plain ; they again
viewed the glorious fun, and the light of day ftill
gleaming on their poli Hied feathers, they fung their
evening hymn, then in a ftraight line majeftically
defcended, and alighted on the towering Palms or
lofty Pines, their fecure and peaceful lodging places.
All around being ftill and filent, we repaired to reft.

Soon after fun-rife, a party of Indians on horfe-
back appeared upon the favanna, to colletft toge-
ther feveral herds of cattle which they drove along
near our camp, towards the town. One of the
party came up, and informed us, the cattle belong-
ed to the chief of Culcowilla ; that he had ordered
fome of the beft fteers of his droves to be flaughtered
for a general feaft for the whole town, in compli-
ment of our arrival, and pacific negotiations.

The cattle were as large and fat as thofe of the
rich grazing paftures of Moyomenfing in Pennfylva-
nia. The Indians drove off the lowing herds, and
we foon followed them to town, in order to be at
council at the appointed hour, leaving two young
men of our party to protect our camp.

Upon

NORTH AMERICA.

189

' Up011 our arrival we repaired to the public fquare

or council-houfe, where the chiefs and fenators were
already convened ; the warriors and young men af-
fembled foon after, the buhnefs being tranfa&ed
in public. As it was no more than a ratification
of the late treaty of St. Auguftine, with fome par-
ticular commercial ftipulations, with refpeft to the
citizens of Alachua, the negotiations foon terminated
to the fatisfadion of both parties.

The banquet fucceeded ; the ribs and choiceft fat
pieces of the bullocks, excellently well barbecued,
were brought into the apartment of the public fquare,
conftrufted and appointed for feafting; bowls and
ketdes of dewed flefh and broth were brought in tor
the next courfe, and with it a very fingular difh,
the traders call it tripe foup ; it is made of the belly
or paunch of the beef, not overcleanfed of its
contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then
made into a thin foup, feafoned well with fait and
aromatic herbs; but the fealoning not quite ftrong
enough to extinguifh its original favour and fcent.
This difh is greatly edeemed by the Indians, but
is, in my judgment, the lead agreeable they have
amongft them.

The town of Cufcowilla, which is the capital of
the Alachua tribe, contains about thirty habitations,
each of which confids of two houfes nearly the fame
fize, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide,
and about the fame in height. The door is placed
midway on one fide or in the front. This houfe
is divided equally, acrofs, into two apartments, one
of which is the cook room and common hall, and
the other the lodging room. The other houfe is
nearly of the fame dimenfions, Handing about twenty
yards from the dwelling houfe, its end fronting
6 the

TRAVELS Iff

190

the door. This building is two (lories high, and
conftru6led in a different manner. It is divided tranf-
verfely, as the other, but the end next the dwelling
houfe is open on three Tides, fupported by ports or
pillars. It has an open loft or platform, the afcent to
which is by a portable ftair or ladder: this is a
pleafant, cool, airy fituation, and here the mafter
or chief of the family retires to repofe in the hot
leafons, and receives his guefts or vifitors. The
other half of this building is clofed on all Tides by
notched logs ; the loweft or ground part is a pota-
toe houfe, and the upper ftory over it a granary for
corn and other provifions. Their houfes are con-
ftru&ed of a kind of frame. In the flirt place, ftrong
corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others
fomewhat lefs, ranging on a line between; thefe
are ftrengthened by crofs pieces of timber, and the
whole with the roof is covered clofe wfidi the bark
of the Cyprefs tree. The dwelling ftands near the
middle of a fquare yard, encompaffed by a low
bank, formed wfith the earth taken out of the yard,
which is always carefully fwept. Their towns are
clean, the inhabitants being particular in laying their
filth at a proper diftance from their dwellings,
which undoubtedly contributes to the healthinefs of
their habitations.

The towm ftands on the moft pleafant fituation
that could be well imagined or defired, in an inland
country ; upon a high fwelling ridge of fand hills,
within three or four hundred yards of a large and
beautiful lake, the circular fhore of which conti-
nually w'afhes a fandy beach, under a moderately
high (loping bank, terminated on one fide by ex-
tenfive forefts, confifting of Orange groves, over-
topped with grand Magnolias, Palms, Poplar, Ti-
8 lia.

NORTH AMERICA. *9*

Ik Live Oaks, and others already noticed ; and the
oDDofite point of the crefcent, gradually retires with
hommocky projecting points, indenting the grafty
marfhes, and laftly terminates in infinite green
plains and meadows, united with the fkies and wa-
ters of the lake. Such a natural landfcape, luch a
rural fcene, is not to be imitated by the united in-
genuity and labour of man. At prefent the ground
betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an
open o-rove of very tall Pine trees, which Handing
at a confiderable diftance from each other, admit a
delightful profpeCt of the fparkling waters. The
lake abounds with various excellent fifh and wild
fowl; there are incredible numbers of the latter,
efpecially in the winter feafon, when they arrive
here from the north to winter.

The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town
on the borders of the favanna, and built here, call-
ing the new town Cufcowilla : their reafons for re-
moving their habitation were on account of its un-
healthinefs, occafioned, as they fay, by the ftench
of the putrid filh and reptiles in the fummer and au-
tumn, driven on fiiore by the alligators, and the
exhalations from marfhes of the favanna, together
with the perfection of the mufquitoes.

They plant but little here about the town ; only
a fmall garden fpot at each habitation, confiding
of a little Corn, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls, &c.
Their plantation, which fupplies them with the chief
of their vegetable provifions, fuch as Zea, Con-
volvulus batata, Cucurbita citrulus, Cue. lagenaria.
Cue. pepo. Cue. melopepo, Cue. verrucofa, Do-
licnos varieties, &c. lies on the rich prolific lands
bordering on the great Alachua favanna, about two
miles diftance. This plantation is one common en-

clofure,

-TRAVELS IN

I92

clofure, and is worked and tended by the whole
community ; yet every family has its particular
part, according to its own appointment, marked off
when planted ; and this portion receives the com-
mon labour and affiftance until ripe, when each fa-
mily gathers and depofits in its granary its own pro-
per fhare, fetting apart a fmall gift or contribution
for the public granary, which hands in the centre of
the plantation.

The youth, under the fupervifal of fome of their
ancient people, are daily ftationed in their fields,
and are continually whooping and hallooing, to
chafe away crows, jackdaws, black-birds, and fuch
predatory animals ; and the lads are armed with
bows and arrows, and being trained up to it from
their early youth, are fure at a mark, and in the
courfe of the day load themfelves with fquirjrls,
birds, &c. The men in turn patrole the corn
fields at night, to protect their provifions from the
depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons,
and deer; the two former being immoderately fond
of young corn, when the grain is filled with a rich
milk, as fweet and nourilhing as cream ; and the
deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.

After the feafl was over, we returned to our en-
campment on the great favanna, towards the even-
ing. Our companions, whom we left at the camp,
were impatient for our return, having been out
horfe hunting in the plains and groves during our
abfence. They foon left us, on a vifit to the town,
having there fome female friends, with whom they
were anxious to renew their acquaintance. The
Siminole girls are by no means deftitute of charms
to pleafe the rougher fex : the white traders are
fully ienfible how greatly it is for their advantage

NORTH AMERICA.

1 93

to gain their affections and ffiendfhip in matters of
trade and commerce ; and if their love and effeem
for each other is fincere, and upon principles of re-
ciprocity, there are but few inftances of their neg-
lecting or betraying the interelts and views of their
temporary hufbands ; they labour and watch con-
ftantly to promote their private interefts, and de-
tect and prevent any plots or evil defigns which may
threaten their perlons, or operate againff their trade
or bufinefs.

In the cool of the evening I embraced the oppor-
tunity of making a folitary excurffon round the ad-
jacent lawns. Taking my fuzee with me, I foon
came up to a little clump of fhrubs, upon a fwell-
ing green knoll, where I obferved feveral large
fnakes entwined together. I ftepped up near them ;
they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having
no inclination to ftrike at any thing, though I en-
deavoured to irritate them, in order to difeover
their difpofition ; nor were they anxious to efcape
from me; This fnake is about four feet in length,
and as thick as a man’s wrift ; the upper fide of a
dirty a(h colour ; the fquamae large, ridged, and
pointed ; the belly or under fide of a reddifh dull
flefh colour ; the tail part not long, but {lender, like
moft other innocent fnakes. They prey on rats,
land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left them!
continuing my progrefs and refearches, delighted
with the ample profpeCts around and over the fa-
vanna.

. Stopping again at a natural ihrubbery, on turn-
ing my eyes to fome flowering fhrubs, I obferved
near w feet the furprifing glafs fnake (anguis
rragilis). It feems as innocent and harmlefs as
a worm. It is, when full grown, two feet and

O

an

TRAVELS IN

I94

an half in length, and three-fourths of an inch in
thicknefs ; the abdomen or body part is remarkably
fhort, and it feems to be all tail, which, though
l°ng, gradually attenuates to its extremity, yet not
fmall and {lender as in lwitch fnakes. The colour
and texture of the whole animal is exactly like
bluifh green glafs, which, together with its fragi-
lity, almoft peri'uades a ftranger that it is in rea-
lity of that brittle fubftance : but it is only the tail
part that breaks oft', which it does like glafs, by a
very gentle ftroke from a {lender fwitch. Though
it is quick and nimble in twifting about, yet it
cannot run faft from one, but quickly fecretes it-
felf at the bottom of the grafs or under leaves.
It is a vulgar fable, that it is able to repair
itfelf after being broken into feveral pieces ;
which pieces, common report fays, by a power or
faculty in the animal, voluntarily approach each
other, join and heal again. The fun now low,
ftiot the pointed fhadows of the projecting pro-
montories far on the fkirts of the lucid green plain ;
flocks of turkeys calling upon their {trolling affo-
eiates, circumfpeCtly marched onward to the groves
and high forefts, their nofturnal retreats. Dewy eve
now arrived. I turned about and regained our en-
campment in good time.

The morning cool and pleafant, and the fkies
ferene, we decamped, purfuing our progrefs round
the Alachua favanna. Three of our companions
feparating from us, went a-head, and we foon loft
fight of them : they again parting on different ex-
curfions, in queft of game and in fearch of their horfes,
fome entered the furrounding groves and forefts,
others {truck off into the green plains. My compa-
nion, the old trader, and myfelf kept together, . he

NORTH AMERICA.

T95

being the mod intelligent and willing to oblige me.
We coafted the green verge of the plain, under the
furrounding hills, occafionally penetrating and crof-
fing the projecting promontories, as the pathway
or conveniency dictated, to avoid the waters and
mud which ftill continued deep and boggy near the
deep hills, in fpringy places ; fo that when we came
to luch places, we found it convenient to afeend
and coaft round the tides of the hills, or ftrike out
a little into the favanna, to a moderately fwellino-
ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delight-
ful green turf, was pleafant travelling ; but then we
were under the neceflity of fording creeks or rivu-
lets, which are the conduits or drains of the fhal-
low boggy ponds or morafies juft under the hills,
l his range or chain of morafies Continues round the
iouth and fouth-weft border of the favanna, and
appealed to me to be fed or occafioned by the
great wet bay-gale or favanna Pine lands, which lie
immeuiately back of the high hilly forefts on the
great favanna, part of which we crofted in coming
from Cuicowilla; which bottom is a flat, level, hard
land, lying between the fand ridge of Cuicowilla,
and theie eminences of the great favanna; and is a
vuf receptacle or reiervoir of the rain waters, which
bung defended from the aftive and powerful exha-
lations of the meridian fun, by the fhadow of the

: lne, trces> *°w jhrubs, and grafs, gradually filter-
ing through the fand, drain through thefe hills and
prefent themfelves in innumerable little meander-

Our progrefs this day was extremely pleafant
over the green turf, having in view numerous 2
of cattle and deer, and fquadrons of horfe, peareablv
browzmg on the tender, fweet grafs, o/fcoS

° 2 through

travels in

*96

through the cool fragrant groves on the furrounding
heights.

Befide the continued Orange groves, thefe heights
abound with Palms, Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquid-
ambar, and Fagus fylvatica of incredible magni-
tude, their trunks imitating the fhafts of vaft co-
lumns: we obferved Calfine, Prunus, Vitis la-
brufca, Rhamnus volubilis, and delightful groves of
iEfculus pavia, and Prunus Caroliniana, a mod:
beautiful evergreen, decorated widi its racemes of
fweet, white blofioms.

Paffing through a great extent of ancient Indian
fields, now grown over with forefts of {lately trees,
Orange groves, and luxuriant herbage, the old
trader, my aflfociate, informed me it was the an-
cient Alachua, the capital of that famous and power-
ful tribe, who peopled the hills lurrounding the
favanna, when, in days of old, they could alienable by
thqufands at ball play and other juvenile diverfions
and athletic exercifes, over thofe, then happy, fields
* and green plains. And there is no reafon to doubt
of his account being true, as almoft every Hep we
take over thofe fertile heights, difcovers remains and
traces of ancient human habitations and cultiva-
tion. It is the moll elevated eminence upon the fa-
vanna ; and here the hills defcend gradually to the
favanna, by a range of gentle, grafly banks. Ar-
riving at a fvvelling green knoll, at fome diftance
in the plains, near the banks of a pond, oppofite
the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our
meeting again together, it being near night, our
afifociates foon after joined us, where we lodged.
Early next morning we continued our tour; one di-
vifion of our company directing its courfe acrofs
the plains to the north coall: my old companion,

with

NORTH AMERICA.

197

with myfelf in company, continued our former rout,
coafting the favanna W. and N. W.j and by agree-
ment we were all to meet again at night, at the E.
end of die favanna.

We continued fome miles cro fling over, from pro-
montory to promontory, the mold enchanting green
coves and villas, fcolloping and indenting the high
coalts of the vail plain. Obferving a company of
wolves (lupus niger) under a few trees, about a
■ quarter of a mile from fhore, we rode up towards
them ; they obferving our approach, fat on their
hinder parts until we came nearly within Ihot of
them, when they trotted off towards the forefts,
but Hopped again and looked at us, at about two
hundred yards dillance: we then whooped, and
made a feint to purfue them ; when they feparated
from each other, fome llretching off into the plains,
and others feeking covert in the groves on Ihore.
When we got to the trees, we obferved they had been
feeding on the carcafe of a horfe. The wolves of
Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfedly
black, except the females, which have a white fpot
on the breaft; but they are not fo large as the
wolves of Canada and Pennfylvania, which are of a
yellowilh brown colour. There were a number of
vultures on the trees over the carcafe, who, as foon
as the wolves ran off, immediately fettled down
upon it; they were however held in rellraint
and fubordination by the bald eagle (falco leu*-
cocephalus).

On our route near a long projected point of the
qoalt, we obferved a large flock of turkeys; at
our approach they haftened to the groves. We foon
gained the promontory. On the afcending hills were
Veftiges of an ancient Indian town, now overfha-
v Q 3 dow^d,

TRAVELS IN

198

dowed with groves of the Orange, loaded with both
green and ripe fruit, and embellifhed with their
fragrant bloom, gratifying the tafte, the fight, and
the fmell at the fame inftant. Leaving this delight-
ful retreat, we foon came to the verge of the groves,
when prefented to view a vaft verdant bay of the
favanna. We difcovered a herd of deer feeding at
a fmall diftance ; upon the fight of us they ran off,
taking {belter in the groves on the oppofite point
or cape of this fpacious meadow. My companions
being old expert hunters, quickly concerted* a plan
for their deftrudtion. One of our company imme-
diately ftruck off, obliquely croffing the meadow for
the oppofite groves, in order to intercept them,
if they fhould continue their courfe up the foreft, to
the main ; and we eroded ftraighc over to the point,
if poflible to keep them in fight, and watch- their
motions, knowing that they would make a Hand
thereabouts, before they would attempt their laft
efcape. On drawing near the point, we fiackened
our pace, and cautioufiy entered die groves ; when
we beheld them thoughtlefs and fecurc, flouncing
in a fparkling pond, in a green meadow or cove
beyond the point ; fome were lying down on their
fides in the cool waters, whilft others were pranc-
ing like young kids i the young bucks in playfome
fport, with their fharp horns hooking and fpurring
the others, urging them to fplaih the water.

I endeavoured to plead for their lives ; but my
old friend, though he was a fenfible rational and
good fort of man, would not yield to my philofo-
phy. He requefted me to mind our horles, while he
made his approaches, cautioufiy gaining ground on
-them, from tree to tree, when they all fuddenly
fprang up and herded together: a princely buck
who headed the party, whiitled and bounded off;

NORTH AMERICA.

199

his retinue followed; but unfortunately for their
chief, he led them with prodigious fpeed out to-
wards the favaona very near us, and when paffing
by, the lucky old hunter fired and laid him prof-
trate upon the green turf, but a few yards from us.
His affrighted followers at the inftant fprang off in
every direftion, {beaming away like meteors or
phantoms, and we quickly loft fight of them. He
opened his body, took out the entrails, and placed
the carcafe in the fork of a tree, calling his frock
or hunting fhirt over to protect it from the vultures
and crows, who follow the hunter as regularly as
his own {hade.

Our companions foon arrived. We fet forward
again, enjoying the like fcenes we had already paft ;
obfcrved parties of Siminole horfes courfing over
the plains, and frequently faw deer, turkeys, and
wolves, but they knew their fafety here, keeping
far enough out of our reach. The wary, fharp
fighted crane, circumfoedlly obferved our progrefs.
We faw a female of them fitting on her neft, and
the male, her mate, watchfully traverfing back-
wards and forwards, at a fmall diftance; they fuf-
fered us to approach near them before they arofe,
when they fpread their wings, running and tipping
the ground with their feet fome time, and then
mounted aloft, foaring round and round over the
neft. They fit upon only two eggs at a time, which
are very large, long, and pointed at one end, of a
pale alh colour, powdered or fpeckled with brown.
The manner of forming their nefts and fittin0- is
very fingular : choofing a tuffock, and there forrnino-
a rude heap of dry grafs, or fuch like materials^
near as high as their body is from the ground when
fending upon their feet, on the fummit of this

^ 4 they

200

TRAVELS IN

they form the neft of fine foft dry grafs. When they
cover their eggs to hatch them, they Hand over them,
bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs.

We again came up to a long projecting point of
the high forefts, beyond which opened to view an
extenfive grafly cove of the favanna, feveral miles in
circuit. We crofted ftraight over from this promon-
tory to the oppofite coaft, and on the way were con-
ftrained to wade a mile or more through the water,
though at a little diftance from us it appeared as a
delightful meadow, die grafs growing through the
water, the middle of which, however, when we
came up, proved to be a large fpace of clear water
almoft deep enough to fwim our horfes; it being a
large branch of the main creek which drains the fa-
vanna. After getting through this morafs, we arrived
on a delightful, level, green meadow, as ufual,
which continued about a mile, when we reached
the firm land ; and then gradually afcending, we
alighted on a hard fandy beach, which exhibited evi-
dent figns of being wafhed by the waves of the lavan-
na, when in the winter feafon it is all under water,
and then prefents the appearance of a large lake.
The coaft here is much lower than the oppofite fide,
which we had left behind us, and rifes from the
meadows with a gradual floping afcent, covered
fcatteringly with low fpreading Live Oaks, fhort
Palms, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cafline, Si-
deroxylon, Quercus nigra, finuata, and others ;
all leaning from the bleak winds that opprefs them.
About one hundred yards back from this beach, die
fand hills gradually rife, and the open Pine fo-
refts appear. We coafted a mile or two along the
beach, then doubled a promontory of high forefts,
and foon after came to a lwift running brook of

clear

NORTH AMERICA.

101

clear water, rolling over gravel and white fand,
which being brought along with it, in its defcent
down the fteeper Tandy beach, formed an eafy fwell-
ing bank or bar. The waters ipread greatly at this
place, exhibiting a lhallow glittering fheet of clear
water, but juft fufficient continually to cover the
clear gravelly bed, and feemed to be funk a little
below the common furface of the beach. This
ftream, however, is foon feparated into a number of
rivulets, by fmall Tandy and gravelly ridges ; and the
waters are finally ftolen away from the fight, by a
charming green meadow, but again fecretly uniting
under the tall grafs, form a little creek, meandering
through the turfy plain, marking its courfe by reeds
and rufhes, which lpring up from its banks, joining
the main creek that runs through the favanna, and
at length delivers the water into the Great Sink.
Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up to
and crofted another brook larger than the former,
which exhibited the like delightful appearance.
We next paffed over a level green lawn, a cove
of the favanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. We
alighted in a pleafant vifta, turning our horfes to
graze while we amuled ourlelves with exploring the
borders of the Great Sink. * In this place a group
of rocky hills almoft furrounds a large bafon, which
is the general receptacle of the water, draining from
every part of the vaft favanna, by lateral conduits,
winding about, and one after another joining the
main creek or general conductor, which at length
delivers them into this fink ; where they defcend by
flow degrees, through rocky caverns, into the bow-
els of the earth, whence they are carried by fecret
fubterraneous channels into other receptacles and
balons.

Wc

Q02 TRAVELS IN

We afcended a collection of eminences, covered
with dark groves, which is one point of the crefcenc
that partly encircles the fink or bafon, open only on
die fide next the favanna, where it is joined to the
great channel or general conductor of the waters.
From this point over to the oppofite point of the
crefcent (which is a fimilar high rocky promontory}
is about one hundred yards, forming a vaft femi-
circular cove or bafon, the hills encircling it rifing
very fteep fifty or fixty feet, high, rocky, perpen-
dicular and bare of earth next the waters of the ba-
fon. Thefe hills, from the top of the perpendicular,
fluted, excavated walls of rock, flant off moderately
up to their fummits, and are covered with a very
fertile, loofe, black earth, which nourifhes and fup-
ports a dark grove of very large trees, varieties of
fhrubs and herbaceous plants. Thefe high foreft
trees furrounding the bafon, by their great height
and fpread, fo effectually fhade the waters, that
coming fuddenly from the open plains, we feem at
once fliut up in darknefs, and the waters appear
black, yet are clear. When we afcend the top of
the hills, we perceive the ground to be uneven, by
round fwelling points and correfponding hollows,
overlpread with gloomy fhade, occafioned by the tall
and fpreading trees, fuch as live oak, mortis rubra,
zanthoxylon, fapindus, liquidambar, tilia, laurus
borbonia, quercus dentata, juglans cinerea, and
others, together with orange trees of remarkable
magnitude and very fruitful. But that which is mod
fingular and to me unaccountable, is the infundibu-
liform cavities, even on the top of thefe high hills,
fome twenty, thirty, and forty yards acrofs, at their
fuperficial rims exactly circular, as if ftruck with a
compafs. Hoping gradually inwards to a point at bot-

tom*

NORTH AMERICA. 20J

tom, forming an inverted cone, or like the upper
wide part of a funnel: the perpendicular depth of
them from the common furface is various, fome de-
fcending twenty feet deep, others almoft to the bed
of rocks, which forms the foundation or nucleus of
the hills, and indeed of the whole country of Eaft
Florida: fome of them feem to be nearly filled up
with earth, fwept in from the common furface, but
retain the fame uniformity; though fometimes fo
clofe together as to be broken one into another.
But as I fhall have occafion to fpeak further of thefe
finks in the earth hereafter, I turn my obfervation
to other objects in view round about me. In and
about the Great Sink are to be feen incredible num-
bers of crocodiles, fome of which are of an enormous
fize, and view the paffenger with incredible impu-
dence and avidity; and at this time they are fo abun-
dant, that, if permitted by them, I could walk over
any part of the bafon and the river upon their heads,
which flowly float and turn about like knotty chuncks
or logs of wood, except when they plunge or fhoot
forward to beat off their affcciates, prefling too clofe
to each other, or taking up fifh, which continually
crowd in upon them from the river and creeks,
draining from the favanna, efpecially the great trout,
mudfifh, catfifh, and the various fpecies of bream :
the gar are rather too hard for their jaws and rough
for their throats, efpecially here, where they have a
fuperfluous plenty and variety of thofe that are every
way preferable: befides, the gar being, like them-
felves, a warlike voracious creature, they feem to be
in league or confederacy together, to enilave and
devour the numerous defencelefs tribes.

It is aftonifliing and incredible, perhaps, I may
fay, to relate what unfpeakable numbers of fifh re-
pair

travels in

tc>4

pair to this fatal fountain or receptacle, during the
latter fummer feafon and autumn, when the power-
ful iun beams have evaporated the waters off the
favannaj where thofe who are l’o fortunate, as to ef-
fect a retreat into the conduftor, and efcape the de-
vouring jaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar,
defcend into the earth, through the wells and cavities
or vaft perforations of the rocks, and from thence
are conduced and carried away, by lecret fubterra-
nean conduits and gloomy vaults, to other diftant
lakes and rivers. And it does not appear impro-
bable, but that in fome future day this vaft favanna
or lake of waters in the winter feafon will be difco-
vered to be in a great meafure filled with its finny
inhabitants, who are ftrangers or adventurers from
other lakes,' ponds, and rivers, by fubterraneous ri-
vulets and communications to this rocky, dark door
or outlet, whence diey afcend to its furface, fpread
over an.i people the winter lake, where they breed,
increafe, and continue as long as it is under water,
or during plealure, for they are at all feafons to be
feen afcend mg and defcending through the rocks:
but towards the autumn, when the waters have al-
moft left the plains, they then crowd to the fink in
luch multitudes, as at times to be feen prefling on
in great banks into the bafon, being urged by pur-
fuing bands of alligators and gar, and when entering
the great bafon or fink, are fuddenly fallen upon by
another army of the fame devouring enemies, lying
in wait for them. Thoufands are driven on ftiore,
where they perifii and rot in banks, which was evi-
dent at the time I was there, the ftench being into-
lerable, although then early in the fummer. There
are three great doors or vent holes through the rocks
in the fink, two near the centre and the other one
near the rim, much higher up than the other two,

which

NORTH AMERICA. 20 <

which was confpicuous through the clear water.
The beds of rocks lay in horizontal thick llrata or
laminae, one over the other, where the fink holes or
outlets are. Thefe rocks are perforated by perpen-
dicular wells or tubes, four, five, and fix feet in
diameter, exactly circular as the tube of a cannon
or walled well ; many of thefe are broken into one
another, forming a great ragged orifice, appearing
fluted by alternate jambs and femicircular perpendi-
cular niches or excavations.

Having fatisfied my curiofity in viewing this ex-
traordinary place and very wonderful work of na-
ture, we repaired to our refting place, where we
found our horfes and mounted again ; one of the
company parting from us for the buck that we had
fhot and left in the fork of the tree. My friend, the
old trader, led the fhorteft way acrols the plain,
after repairing the wet morafs which had almoft
fwum our horfes in the morning. At evening we
arrived at the place of our deftination, where our
aflociates foon after rejoined us with fome Indians,
who were merry agreeable guefls as long as they
(laid. They were in full drefs and painted; but
before dark they mounted their horfes, which were
of the true Siminole breed, fet fpurs to them, ut-
tering all at once a Ihrill whoop, and went off for
Culcowilla.

Though the horned cattle and horfes bred in
thefe meadows are large, fleek, fprightly, and as
fat as can be in general, yet they are fubjed to mor-
tal difeafes. I obferved feveral of them dreadfully
mortified, their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw,
and bleeding, which, like a mortification or flow
cancer, at length puts an end to their miferable
txiftence. The traders and Indians call this dif-

eafe

I

10 6 TRAVELS IN

cafe the water-rot or fcald, and lay it is occafioned
by the warm waters of the favanna, during the heats
of fummer and autumn, when thefe creatures wade
deep to feed on the water-grafs, which they are im-
moderately fond of; whereas the cattle which only
feed and range in the high forefts and pine favannas
are clear of this diforder. A facrifice to intemper-
ance and luxury.

We had heavy rains during the night, and though
very w'arm, yet no thunder and very little wind. It
cleared away in the morning, and the day was very
pleafant. Sat off for the Eaft end of the favanna,
collecting by the way and driving before us parties of
horfes, the property of the traders ; and next morn-
ing fat off on our return to the lower ftore on St.
John’s, coafting the favanna yet a few miles, in ex-
pectation of finding the remainder of their horfes,
though difappointed.

We at laft bid adieu to the magnificent plains of
Alachua, entered the pine forefts, and foon fell into
the old Spanifh highway, from St. Auguftine acrofs
the ifthmus of Florida, to St. Mark’s in the bay of
Apalache. Its courfe and diftance from E. to W.
is, from St. Auguftine to Fort Picolata on the river
St. Juan, twenty-feven miles; thence acrofs the
river to the Poopoa Fort, three miles; thence to
the Alachua Savanna, forty-five miles; thence to
Talahafochte on the river Little St. Juan, feventy-
five miles; thence down this river to St. Mark’s,
thirty miles: the whole diftance from St. Auguftine
to St. Mark’s, one hundred and eighty miles. But
this road having been unfrequented for many years
paft, fince the Creeks fulxlued the remnant tribes
of the ancient Floridans, and drove the Spaniards
from their fettlements in Eaft Florida into St. Au-
guftine,

NORTH AMERICA.

207

gudine, which effectually cut off their comirfunica-
tlon between that garrifon and St. Mark’s; this an-
cient highway is grown up in many places with trees
and fhrubs ; but yet has left fo deep a track on the
furface of the earth, that it may be traced for ages
yet to come.

Leaving the highway on our left hand, we afcended
a fandy ridge, thinly planted by nature with dately
pines and oaks, of the latter genus particularly q.
finuata, f. flammula, q. nigra, q. rubra. Paffed by
an Indian village fituated on this high airy fand
ridge, confiding of four or five habitations; none
of the people were at home, drey were out at their
hunting camps ; we obferved plenty of corn in their
cribs. Following a hundng path eight or nine miles,
through a vad pine foreft and grafiy favanna, well
timbered, the ground covered with a charming car-
pet of various flowering plants, came to a large
creek of excellent water, and here we found the en-
campment of the Indians, the inhabitants of the little
town we had pafled ; we faw their women and chil-
dren, the men being out hunting. The women pre-
fented themfelves to our view as we came up, at the
door of their tents, veiled in their mantle, modeftly
Ihowing their faces, when we diluted them. Towards
the evening we fell into the old trading path, and
before night came to camp at the Halfway Pond.
Next morning, after collecting together the horfes,
fome of which had drolled away at a great didance,
we purfued our journey, and in the evening arrived
at the trading houfe on St. Juan’s, from a diccefsful
and pleafant tour.

On my return to the dore on St. Juan’s the trad-
ing fchooner was there ; but as die was not to re-
turn

I

2cS

TRAVELS IN

turn to Georgia until the autumn, I found I had
time to purfue my travels in Florida, and might at
leifure plan my excurlions to colledt feeds and roots
in boxes, & c.

At this time the talks (or melfages between the
Indians and white people) were perfectly peaceable
and friendly, both with the Lower Creeks and the
Nation or Upper Creeks. Parties of Indians were
coming in every day with their hunts; indeed the
Mufcogulges or Upper Creeks very feldom difturb
us. Bad talks from the Nation are always very fe-
rious affairs, and to the utmoft degree alarming to
the white inhabitants.

The Mufcogulges are under a more fix icft govern-
ment or regular civilization Than the Indians in ge-
neral. They lie near their potent and declared
enemy, the Chadtaws. Their country having a vaft
frontier, naturally acceffible and open to the incur-
fions of their enemies on all fides, they find them-
ielves under the necefTity of affociating in large po-
pulous towns, and thefe towns as near together as
convenient, that they may be enabled to fuccour and
defend one another in cafe of fudden invafion. This
confequently occafions deer and bear to be fcarce
and difficult to procure, which obliges them to be
vigilant and induftrious; this naturally begets care
and ferious attention, which w'e may fuppofe in fome
degree forms their natural difpofition and manners,
and gives them that air of dignified gravity, fo ftrik-
ingly charadteriftic in their aged people, and that
fteadinels, juft and cheerful reverence in the middle
aged and youth, which fits fo eafy upon them, and
appears fo natural. For, however ftrange it may
appear to us, the fame moral duties which with us
6 form

NORTH AMERICA. 209

form the amiable, virtuous character, fo difficult to
maintain, there, without compulfion or vifible re-
ftraint, operates like inflinft, with a furprifmg har-
mony and natural eafe, infomuch that it Teems im-
poffible Tor them to aft out oT the common high road
to virtue.

_ We will now take a view of the Lower Creeks or
S ini moles, and the natural difpofition which charac-
teiiles this people; when, from the linking contrail,
the philoTopher may approve or diTapprove, as he
may think proper, Trom the judgment and opinion
given by different men.

The Siminoles are but a weak people with refoeft
to numbers. All oT them, I TuppoTe, would not be
iufficient to people one oT the towns in the Mufco-
gffigej Tor mllance, the Uches on the main branch
of the Apalachucla river, which alone contains near
* tvyo thouTand inhabitants. Yet this handfol of' people
poffelles a vail territory; all Eall Florida and the
greatelt part oT Weft Florida, which being naturally
cut and divided into thouTands oT iflets, knolls, and
eminences, by the innumerable rivers, lakes, Twamps,
vaft Tavannas and ponds, form To many lecure re-
ti cats and temporary dwelling places, that effeftually
guard them Trom any Tudden invafions or attacks
from their enemies; and being Tuch a Twampy, hom-
mocky country, Turniffies Tuch a plenty and variety
of fupphes for the nounffiment oT varieties of ani-
mals, that I can venture to affert, that no part of the

globe To bounds with wild game or Creatures fit for
the food of man.

r Thus 5hey enjoy a fuperabundance of the necef-
Tanes and conveniences of life, with the fecurity
of perfon and property, the two great concerns of

mankind.

\

aio

TRAVELS IN

a£ 1 W %

mankind. The hides of deer, bears, tigers and
wolves, together with honey, wax and other pro-
ductions of the country, purchafe their clothing,
equipage, and domeftic utenffls from the whites.
They feem to be free from want or deftres. No
cruel enemy to dread ; nothing to give them d.l-
quietude, but the gradual encroachments of t le
white people. Thus contented and ™^ibed,
they appear as blithe and free as the birds of the
air/ and like them as volatile and aftive, tuneful
and vociferous. The viiage, adion, and deport-
ment of the Siminoles, form the moll Unking piftti
of happinefs in this life; joy, contentment, love
and fnendlhip, without guile or affectation feen
inherent in them, or predominant m the.r vioJ^ui-
ciDle, for it leaves them but with the laft breath ot
life It even feems impofmg a content upon their
ancient chiefs and fenators, to maintain a necefla y
decorum and folemmty, in their public councils
not even the debility and decrepitude of extieme old
a°e is fufficient to erafe from their v.fages, this
TOUthful joyous fimplicity s but like the gray eve
of a ferene and calm day, a gladdening, cheering
blufh remains on the Weftern horizon after the fun

is fet.

I doubt not but fome of my countrymen who
may read thefe accounts of the Indians, which I ha ve
endeavoured to relate according to truth, at leatt
they appeared to me, will charge me with partiality
or prejudice in their favour.

I will, however, now endeavour to exhibit their
vices, immoralities, and imperfeaions, from J
own obfervations and knowledge, q

counts from the white traders, who ref.de amonglt

them.

The

NORTH AMERICA. 21 I

The Indians make war againft, kill, and deftroy
their own fpecies, and their motives fpring from
the fame erroneous fource as they do in all other
nations of mankind ; that is, the ambition of exhi-
biting to their fellows a fuperior character of per-
fonal and national valour, and thereby immorta-
lizing themfelves, by tranfmitting their names with
honour and luftre to pollerity; or revenge of
their enemy, for public or perfonal infults ; or, lalt-
ly, to extend the borders and boundaries of their
territories. But I cannot find, upon the ftridteft in-
quiry, that their bloody contefts at this day are
marked with deeper ftains of inhumanity or favage
cruelty, than what may be obferved amongft the
moft civilized nations: they do indeed fcalp their
(lain enemy, but they do not kill the females or chil-
dren of either fex : the moft ancient traders, both in
the Lower and Upper Creeks, allured me they ne-
ver faw an inftance of either burning or tormenting
their male captives; though it is faid they ufed to
do it formerly. I faw in every town in the Nation
and Siminoles that I vifited, more or lefs male cap-
tives, fome extremely aged, who were free and in as
good circumftances as their mailers ; and all Haves
have their freedom when they marry, which is per-
mitted and encouraged, when they and their offspring
are every way upon an equality with their conquer-
ors. They are given to adultery and fornication,
but, I fuppofe, in no greater excefs than other na-
tions of men. They punilh the delinquents, male
and female, equally alike, by taking ofi their ears.
This is the pumfhment for adultery. Infamy and
difgrace is fuppofed to be a fufficient punilhment for
fornication, in either fex.

They are fond of games and gambling, and amuie

2 themfelves

212

TRAVELS IN

themfelves like children, in relating extravagant fto-
ries, to caufe furprife and mirth.

They wage eternal war againft deer and bear, to
procure food and clothing, and other neceffaries and
conveniences; which is indeed carried to an unrea-
fonable and perhaps criminal excefs, fince the white
people have dazzled their fenfes with foreign fuper-
fluities.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

213

CHAP. VII.

On my return to the trading houfe, from my
journey to the great favanna, I found the trading
company for Litde St. Juan’s preparing for that
poll.

My mind yet elate with the various fcenes of ru-
ral nature, which as a lively animated pifture had
been prefented to my view j the deeply engraven
impreffion, a plead ng flattering contemplation? gave
ftrength and agility to my fteps, anxioufly to prefs
forward to the delightful fields and groves of Apa-
latche. r

The trading company for Talahafochte beino-
now m readinefs to proceed for that quarter, unde?
the direction of our chief trader, in the cool of the
morning we fat off, each of us having a good horfe
to ride befides having in our caravan feveral pack
horfes laden with provifions, camp equipage, and
other . neceffaries. A young man from St. Aumif-
tme, in the fervice of the governor of Eaft Flonda
accompanied us, commiffioned to purchafe of the
Indians and traders, fome Siminole horfes. Thev
are the moft beautiful and fprightly fpecies of that
noble creature, perhaps any where to be feen • but
are of a fmall breed, and as delicately formed as the
American roe buck. A horfe in the Creek or Muf
cogulge tongue is echoclucco, that is the great
deer (echo is a deer, and clucco is big) The w
nofc horfes are fa,d to defend origl^m T'

^ 3 Andalufian

TRAVELS IN

ai4

Andalufian breed, brought here by the Spaniards
when they firft eftablifhed the colony of Eaft Flo-
rida. From the forehead to their nofe is a little
arched or aquiline, and fo are the fine Cha&aw
horfes among the Upper Creeks, which are faid
to have been brought thither from New-Mexico
acrofs Miflifippi, by thofe nations of Indians who
emigrated from the Weft, beyond the river. Thefe
horles are every way like the Siminole breed, only
larger, and perhaps not fo lively and capricious.
It is a matter of conjecture and inquiry, whether
or not the different foil and fituation of the country
may have contributed in fome meafure, in forming
and eftablilhing the difference in fize and other qua-
lities betwixt them. I have obferved the horfes and
other animals in the high hilly country of Carolina,
Georgia, Virginia, and all along our (hores, are of
a much larger and ftronger make, than thofe which
are bred in the flat country next the fea coaft. A
buck-fkin of the Upper Creeks and Cherokees will
weigh twice as heavy as thofe of the Siminoles or
Lower Creeks, and thofe bred in the low fiat coun-
try of Carolina.

Our firft day’s journey was along the Alachua
roads, twenty-five miles to the Half-way Pond,
where we encamped: the mufquitoes were excef-
fively troublefome the whole night.

Decamped early next morning, ftill purfuing the
road to Alachua, until within a few miles of Cufco-
willa; when the road dividing, one for the town, and
the other for the great favanna, here our company
feparated. One party chofe to pafs through the
town, having fome concerns there. I kept with the
party that wrent through the favanna, it being the

NORTH AMERICA.

215

beft road, leading over a part of the favanna; when
entering the groves on its borders, we travelled
feveral miles over thefe fertile eminences, and de-
lightful fhady fragrant forefts; then again entered
upon the favanna, and croffed a charming exten-
five green cove or bay of it, covered with a vivid
green grafiy turf, when we again afcended the wood-
land hills, through fruitful orange groves, and un-
der fhadowy palms and magnolias. Now the pine
forefts opened to view. We left the magnificent
favanna and its delightful groves, pafling through
a level, open, airy pine foreft, the ftately trees
fcatteringly planted by nature, arifing ftraight and
ere<ft from the green carpet, embellifhed with va-
rious grafles and flowering plants; then gradually
afcending the fand hills, we foon came into the trading
path to Talahafochte ; which is generally, except-
ing a few deviations, the old Spanifti highway to
St. Mark’s. At about five miles diftance beyond the
great favanna, we came to camp late in the even-
ing, under a little grove of live oaks, juft by a group
of fhelly rocks, on the banks of a beautiful little
(lake, partly environed by meadows. The rocks,
as ufual in thefe regions, partly encircle a fpacious
fink or grotto, which communicates with the waters
of the lake: the waters of the grotto are perfedtly
tranfparent, cool, and pleafant, and well replenifhed
with fifh. Soon after our arrival here, our compa-
nions who paded through Cufcowilla joined us. A
brilk cool wind during the night kept the perfect
ting mufquitoes at a diftance.

The morning pleafant, we decamped early: pro-
ceeding on, rifing gently for feveral miles, over
>ndy, gravelly ridges, we found ourfelves in an ele-

P 4 yated,

2 1 6 TRAyELS IN

vated, high, open, airy region, fomewhat rocky,
on the backs of the ridges, which prefented to view,
on every fide, the molt ‘dreary, folitary, defert walte
I had ever beheld ; groups of bare rocks emerging
out of the naked gravel and drifts of white fand ;
the grafs thinly fcattered and but few trees ; die
pines, oaks, olives, and fideroxylops, poor, mifha-
pen, and tattered; fcarce an animal to be feen, or
noife heard, fave the fymphony of the Weftern
breeze, through the briftly pine leaves, or folitary
fand-cricket’s fcreech, or at belt the more focial
converfe of the frogs, in folemn chorus with the fwift
breezes, brought from diftant fens and forefts. Next
we joyfully entered the borders of the level pine forelt
and favannas, which continued for many miles, never
out of fight of little lakes or ponds, environed with
illumined meadows, the clear waters fparkling
through the tall pines.

Having a good fpirited horfe under me, I gene-
rally kept a-head of my companions, which I often
chofe to do, as circumftances' offered or invited, for
the fake of retirement and obfervation.

The high road being here open and fpacious, at
a good diftance before me, I oblerved a large hawk
on the ground in the middle of the road: he feem-
ed to be in diftrefs, endeavouring to rife; when,
coming up near him, I found him clolely bound up
by a very long coach-whip fnake, that had wreath-
ed himfelf feveral times round the hawk’s body,
who had but one of his ivings at liberty: behold-
ing their ffruggles a while, 1 alighted off my horfe
with an intention of parting them ; when, on com-
ing up, they mutually agreed to feparate them-
fdves, each one feeking his own fafety, probably

confidering

NORTH AMERICA. 217

confidering me as their common enemy. The bird
rofe aloft and fled away as foon as he recovered
his liberty, and the fnake as eagerly made off. I
loon overtook him, but could not perceive that he
was wounded.

I fuppofe the hawk had been the aggreffor, and
fell upon the fnake with an intention of making
a prey of him ; and that the fnake dexteroufly and
luckily threw himfelf in coils round his body, and
girded him fo clofe as to fave himfelf from de-
ftrudion.

The coach-whip fnake is a beautiful crea-
ture. When full grown it is fix and feven feet
in length, and the largeft part of its body not fo
thick as a cane or common walking ftick; its
head not larger than the end of a man’s finger;
its neck is very (lender, and from the abdomen
tapers away in the manner of a fmall fwitch or
coach-whip ; the top of the head and neck, for three
or four inches, is as black and Ibining as a raven ;
the throat and belly as white as l'now ; and the up-
per fide of the body of a chocolate colour, ex-
cepting the tail part, almoft from the abdomen to
the extremity, which is black. It may be proper to
obferve, however, that it varies in refped to the
colour of the body ; fome I have feen almoft white
or cream colour, others of a pale chocolate or clay
colour, but in all, the head and neck is black,
and the tail dark brown or black. It is extremely
fwift, feeming almoft to fly over the furface of
the ground ; and that which is very lingular, it
can run fwiftly on its tail part only, carrying
• the head and body upright. One veiy fine one ac-
companied me along the road fide, at a little dis-
tance, raifing himfelf ered, now and then looking

4 me

TRAVELS IN

2l8

me in the face, although I proceeded on a good
round trot on purpofe to oblerve how faft they could
proceed in that pofition. His objedt feemed mere
curiofity or oblervation ; with refpedl to venom
it is as innocent as a worm, and feems to be familiar
with man. It appears to be a pardcular inhabi-
tant of Eaft Florida, though I have feen fome
in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia,
but in thefe regions it is neither fo large nor
beautiful.

W e afcended again, pafiing over fand ridges of gen-
tle elevation, favannas and open Pine forefts. Mafies
or groups of rocks prefented to view on every fide, as
before mentioned ; and with difficulty we efcaped the
circular infundibuliform cavities or finks in the furface
of the earth. Generally a group of rocks, fhaded by
Palms, Live Oaks, and Magnolias, is fituated on their
limb : fome are partly filled up with earth, whilft
others, and the greater number of them, are partly
filled with tranfparent cool water, which difcovers
the well or perforation through the rocks in the cen-
tre. This day being remarkably fultry, we came
to camp early, having chofen our fituation un-
der fome {lately Pines, near the verge of a fpacious
favanna.

After fome refreffiment, our hunters went out
into the forell, and returned towards evening. A-
mongft other game, they brought with them a fa-
vanna crane * which they ffiot in the adjoining mea-
dows. This {lately bird is about fix feet in length
from the toes to the extremity of the beak when
extended, and the wings expand eight or nine feet ;
it is above five feet high when {landing credt i the
tail is remarkably Ihort, but the flag or pendant

* Grus p.

feathers

NORTH AMERICA. 219

feathers which fall down off the rump on each fide,
are very long and fharp pointed, of a delicate tex-
ture, and filky foftnefs ; the beak is very long, ftraight
and fharp pointed ; the crown of the head bare of
feathers, of a reddilh rofe colour, thinly barbed
with fhort, ftiff, black hair ; the legs and thighs are
very long, and bare of feathers a great fpace above
the knees: the plumage of this bird is generally
of a pale a(li colour, with Ihades or clouds of pale
brown and Iky blue, the brown prevails on the
fhoulders and back ; the barrels of the prime quill-
feathers are long and of a large diameter, leaving
a large cavity when extracted from the wing : all
the bones of this bird have a thin fhell, and confe-
quently a large cavity or medullary receptacle.
When thefe birds move their wings in flight, their
ftrokes are flow, moderate, and regular ; and even,
when at a conflderable diftance or high above us,
we plainly hear the quill- feathers, their fhafts and
webs upon one another creak as the joints or
working of a vefifel in a tempeftuous fea.

We had this fowl drefled for fupper, and it made
excellent foup ; neverthelefs, as long as I can get
any other necefifary food, I fhall prefer their feraphic
mufic in the ethereal fkies, and my eyes and under-
ftanding gratified in obferving their economy and
focial communities, in the expajifive green favannas
of Florida.

Next morning we arofe early, and proceeding,
gradually defcended again, and continued many
miles along a flat, level country, over delightful
green favannas, decorated with hommocks or iflets
of dark groves, confiding of Magnolia grandiflora,
Morus tilia, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Side-
roxylon, Quercus fempervirens, Halefia diptera, Cal-
licarpa, Corypha palma, &c. There are always groups

6 of

2.20 TRAVELS IN

of whitifh teftaceous rocks and finks wliere thefe
hommocks are. We next eroded a wet favanna,
which is the beginning of a region ft ill Jower than
that we had traverfed ■, here we eroded a rapid rivulet
of exceeding cool, pleafant water, where we halt-
ed to refrefh ourfelves. But it muft be remarked
here, that this rivulet, though lively and rapid at this
time, is not a permanent ftream, but was formed
by a heavy rain that fell the day before, as was appa-
rent from its bed ; befides it is at belt but a jet or
mere phantom of a brook, as the land around is
rocky and hollow, abounding with wells and cavities.
Soon after leaving the brook, we paflfed off to the left
hand, along the verge of an extenfive favanna, and
meadows many miles in circumference, edged on one
border with detached groves and pompous Palms,
and embellilhed with a beautiful fparkling lake;
its verges decorated with tall waving grafs and
floriferous plants ; the pellucid waters gently roll-
ing on to a dark fhaded grotto, juft under a femi-
circular fwelling turfy afqent or bank, fkirted by
groves of Magnolias, Oaks, Laurels, and Palms. In
thefe expanfive and delightful meadows were feed-:
ing and roving troops of the fleet Siminole horfe.
We halted a while at this grotto; and, after refrefh-
ing ourfelves, we mounted horfe and proceeded
acrols a charming lawn, part of the favanna, enter-
ing on it through a dark grove. In this extenfive
lawn were feveral troops of horfe, and our company
had the fatisfa&ion of obferving feveral belong-
ing to themfelves. One occurrence remarkable
here, was a troop of horfe under the controul and
care of a Angle black dog, which feemed to differ
in no refpeft from the wolf of Florida, except his
being able to bark as the common dog. He was
very careful and induftrious in keeping them toge-
ther;

NORTH AMERICA.

221

ther; and if any one ftrolled from the reft at too
great a diftance, the dog would fpring up, head
the horfe, and bring him back to the company. The
proprietor of thefe horfes is an Indian in Talaha-
fochte, about ten miles diftance from this place,
who, out of humour and experiment, trained his
dog up from a puppy to this bufinefs : he follows
his mailer’s horfes only, keeping them in a feparate
company where they range ; and when he is hungry
or wants to fee his mafter, in the evening he re-
turns to town, but never ftays at home a night.

The region we had journeyed through, fince we
decamped this morning, is of a far better foil and
quality than we had yet feen fince we left Alachua;
generally a dark grayifh, and fometimes brown or
black loam, on a foundation of whitifh marl, chalk,
and teftaceous limeltone rocks, and ridges of a loofe,
coarfe, reddifti fand, producing {lately Pines in the
plains, and Live Oak, Mulberry, Magnolia, Palm,
Zanthoxylon, &c. in the hommocks, and alfo in great
plenty the perennial Indigo ; it grows here five, fix,
and feven feet high, and as thick together as if it
had been planted and cultivated. The higher ridges
of hills afford great quantities of a fpecies of
iron ore, of that kind found in New-Jerfey and
Penniylvania, and therd called bog ore; it ap-
pears on the furface of the ground in large detach-
ed maffes and fmaller fragments; it is ponderous
and feemed rich of that moft ufeful metal ; but one
property remarkable in thele terrigenous ftones is,
that they appear to be bliftered, fomewhat refetn-
bling cinders, or as if they had buffered a violent
adlion of fire.

Leaving the charming favanna and fields of Capo-
la, we paffed feveral miles through delightful plains

and

222

TR aV£Ls IN

and meadows, little differing from the environs of
Capola, diverfified with rocky iflets or hommocks
of dark woodland.

We next entered a vafl fbred of the mod (lately
Pine trees that can be imagined, planted by na-
ture at a moderate didance, on a level, gralfy plain,
enamelled with a variety of flowering flirubs, viz.
Viola, Ruella infundibuliforma, Amaryllis ata-
mafco, Mimofa fenfitiva, Mimofa intfia and many
others new to me. This fublime foreft continued
five or fix miles, when we came to dark groves of
Oaks, Magnolias, Red bays, Mulberries, &c. through
which proceeding near a mile, we entered open
fields, and arrived at the town of Talahafochte, on
the banks of Little St. Juan.

The river Little St. Juan may, with lingular
propriety, be termed the pellucid river. The wa-
ters are the cleared and purefl of any river I ever
faw, tranfmitting didindtly the natural form and
appearance of the objects moving in the tranfparenc
floods, or repofing on the filvery bed, with the finny
inhabitants fporting in its gently flowing dream.

The river at the town is about two hundred yards
over, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth. The
great fwamp and lake Oaquaphenogaw is faid to be
its fource, which is about one hundred miles by land
North of this place; which would give the river a
courfe of near two hundred miles from its fource
to the fea, to follow its meanders; as in general
our rivers, that run any considerable didance through
the country to the fea, by their windings and rov-
ing about to find a paflage through the ridges and
heights, at lead double their didance.

The Indians and traders fay that this river has no

branches

NORTH AMERICA. 22J

branches or collateral brooks or rivers tributary to
it, but that it is fed or augmented by great fprings
which break out through the banks. From the ac-
counts given by them, and my own obfervations on
the country round about, it feems a probable af-
fertion; for there was not a creek or rivulet to be
feen, running on the furface of the ground, from
the great Alachua Savanna to this river, a diftance
of above feventy miles ; yet, perhaps, no part of the
earth affords a greater plenty of pure, falubrious
waters. The unparalleled tranfparency of thefe wa-
ters furnilhes an argument for fuch a conje&ure,
that amounts at leaft to a probability, were it not
confirmed by ocular demonftration ; for in all the
flat countries of Carolina and Florida, except this
ifthmus, the waters of the rivers are, in fome degree,
turgid, and have a dark hue, owing to the annual
firing of the forefts and plains ; and afterwards the
heavy rains wafhing the light furface of the burnt
earth into rivulets, which rivulets running ra-
pidly over the furface of the earth, flow into
the rivers, and tinge the waters the colour of
lye or beer, almoft down to the tide near the fea
coaft. But here behold how different the appear-
rance, and how manifeft the caufe ! for although the
furface of the ground produces the fame vegetable
fubflances, the foil the fame, and fuffers in like
manner a general conflagration, and the rains, in
impetuous fhowers, as liberally defcend upon the
parched furface of the ground; yet the earth be-
ing fo hollow and porous, thefe fuperabundant war
ters cannot conftitute a rivulet or brook, to conti-
nue any diftance on its furface, before they are
arrefted in their courfe and fwallowed up : thence
defending, they are filtered through the fands and

other

TRAVELS IN

224

other ftrata of earth, to the horizontal beds of po-^
rous rocks, which, being compofed of thin feparable
laminte, lying generally in obliquely horizontal
diredtions over each other, admit thefe waters to
pafs on by gradual but conftant percolation. Thus
collecting and aflociating, they augment and form
little rills, brooks, and even fubterraneous rivers,
which wander in darknefs beneath the furface of
the earth, by innumerable doublings, windings, and
fecret labyrinths ; no doubt in fome places forming
vaft refervoirs and fubterranean lakes, inhabited
by multitudes of fifh and aquatic animals : and p'of-
fibly, when collected into large rapid brooks, meet-
ing irrefiftible obftrudtions in their courfe, they fud-
denly break through thefe perforated fluted rocks,
in high perpendicular jets, nearly to their former
level, flooding large diftridts of land. Thus by means
of thole fubterranean courfes, the waters are puri-
fied and finally carried to the banks of great rivers,
where they emerge and prelent themfelves to open
day-light, with their troops of finny inhabitants, in
thofe l'urprifing vail fountains near the banks of this
river; and likewife on and near the fhores of Great
St. Juan, on the eaft coaft of the ifthmus, fome
of which I have already given an account of.

On our arrival at Talahalochte, in the evening
we repaired to the trading houfe formerly belong-
ing to our chief, where were a family of Indians,
who immediately and comphifantly moved out to
accommodate us. The White King with moll of
the male inhabitants were out hunting or tending
their Corn plantations.

The town is delightfully fituated on the elevated
eaft banks of the river, the ground level to near
the river, when it defeends fuddenly to the water ;

I fuppoie

NORTH AMERICA.

12 $

I fuppofe the perpendicular elevation of the ground
may be twenty or thirty feet. There are near thirty
habitations conftrudted after the mode of Cufco-
willa ; but here is a more fpacious and neat council-
houfe.

Thefe Indians have large handforrie canoes, which
they form out of the trunks of Cyprefs trees (Cu-
preflfus difticha), fome of them commodious enough
to accommodate twenty or thirty warriors. In thefe
large canoes they defcend the river on trading and
hunting expeditions to the fea Coaft, neighbouring
iflands and keys, quite to the point of Florida, and
fomedmes crofs the gulph, extending their naviga-
tions to the Bahama iflands and even to Cuba : a
crew of thefe adventurers had juft arrived, having
returned from Cuba but a few days before rair ar-
rival, with a cargo of fpirituous liquors, Coffee,
Sugar, and Tobacco. One of them politely prefent-
ed me with a choice piece of Tobacco, which he told
me he had received from the governor of Cuba.

They deal in the way of barter, carrying with
them deer fkins, furs, dry fifh, bees-wax, honey,
bear’s oil, ind fome other articles. They fay the
Spaniards receive them very friendlily, and treat
them with the beft fpirituous liquors.

The Spaniards of Cuba likewife trade here or at
St. Mark’s, and other fea ports on the weft coaft
of the ifthmus, in fmall (loops; particularly at the
bay of Calos, where are excellent fifhing banks and
grounds ; not far from which is a confiderable town
of the Siminoles, where they take great quantities
of fifh, wh'ch they fait and cure on fhore, and barter
with the Indians and traders for fkins, furs, &c. and
return with their cargoes to Cuba.

Q.

The

TRAVELS rW

22 6

1 he trader of the town of Talahafochte informed
me, that he had, when trading in that town, large
iupplies of goods from thefe Spanifh trading veffels,
iuitable for that trade, and fome very ellential ar-
ticles, on more advantageous terms than he could
purchafe at Indian flores either in Georgia or St.
Auguftine.

Towards the evening after the fultry heats were
paft, a young man of our company, having previ-
oufly procured the loan of a canoe from an Indian,
propofed to me a fifhing excurfion for trout with
the bob. We fet off down the river, and before
we had paffed two miles; caught enough for our
houfhold : he was an excellent hand at this kind of
diverfion : l'ome of the fifh were lo large and ftrong
in their element, as to fhake his arms ftoutly and
drag us with the canoe over the floods before we
got them in. It is in the eddy coves, under the
points and turnings of the river, where the fur-
face of the waters for fome acres is covered with
the leaves of the Nymphea, Piftia, and other am-
phibious herbs and grafs, where the haunts and re-
treats of this famous fifh are, as well as pthers of
various tribes.

Obferving a fifhing canoe of Indians turning a
point below and coming towards us, who hailed
us, we waited their coming up ; they were cheer-
ful merry fellows, and infilled on our accepting of
part of their fifh ; they having a greater quantity
and variety, efpeeially of the bream, my favourite
fifh, we exchanged fome of our trout with them.

Our chief being engaged widi the chiefs of the
town in commercial concerns, and others of our
company out in die forefts with die Indians, hunt-
ing

NORTH AMERICA.

227

.ing up horfes belonging to the trading company;
the young interpreter, my companion, who was
obliging to me, and whom our chief previoufly re-
commended to me as an affociate, propofed to me
anodier little voyage down the river. This was
agreeable to me, being defirous of increafing my
obfervations during our continuance at Talahaf-
ochte; as when the White King fhould return
to town (which was expedted every hour) we in-
tended after audience and treaty to leave them and
encamp in the forefts, about fifteen miles diftance
and nearer the range of their horfes.

Having fupplied ourfelves with ammunition and
provifion, we fet off in the cool of the morning,
and defcended pleafantly, riding on the cryftal
flood, which flows down with an eafy, gentle, vet
aftive current, rolling over its filvery bed. How
abundantly are the waters replenifhed with inhabit-
ants ! the flream almoft as tranfparent as the air
we bi eathe ; there is nothing done in fecret except
on its green flowery verges, where nature, at the
command of the Supreme Creator, hath fpread a
mantle, as a covering and retreat at fuitable and
convenient times, but by no means a fecure refiige
from the voracious enemy and purfuen

Behold the watery nations, in numerous bands
roving to and fro, amid.ft each otherwhere they feem
all at peace ; though, incredible to relate ! but a few
yards off, near the verge of the green mantled fhore
there is eternal war, or rather daughter. Near the
banks the waters become turbid, from fubflrances
gradually diverging from each fide of the fwifc chan-
nel, and colledhons of opaque particles whirled to
ihore by the eddies, which afford a kind of nurfery for

0.2

young

228

TRAVELS IN

young fry, and its (limy bed is a prolific nidus for
generating and rearing of infinite tribes and fwarms
of amphibious infers, which are the food of young
fifh, who in their turn become a prey to the older.
Yet when thofe different tribes of fifh are in the
tranfparent channel dieir very nature feems abfo-
lutely changed; for here is neither defile to deftroy
nor perfecute, but all feems peace and friendfhip.
Do they agree on a truce, a fufpenfion of hoftilities?
or by fome fecret divine influence, is defire taken
away ? or they are otherwife rendered incapable of
purfuing each other to deflrudtion ?

About noon we approached the admirable Manate
Spring, three or four miles down the river. This
charming nymphteum is the produdt of primitive
nature, not to be imitated, much lefs equalled, by the
united effort of human power and ingenuity ! As we
approach it by water, the mind of the inquiring
traveller is previoufly entertained, and gradually
led on to greater difcovery ; firfl by a view of the
fublime dark grove, lifted up on fhore, by a range
or curved chain of hills, at a fmall diftance from the
lively green verge of the river, on the caff banks j
as we gently defcend floating fields of the Nymphasa
nelumbo, interfered with villas of the yellow green
Piflia flratiotes, which cover a bay or cove of the
river oppofite the circular woodland hills.

It is amazing and almoft incredible, what troops
and bands of fifh and other watery inhabitants are
now in fight, all peaceable ; and in what variety of
gay colours and forms, continually afcending and
defcending, roving and figuring amongfl one ano-
ther, yet every tribe affociating feparately. We
now afcended the cryllal flream ; the current fwift :

wc

I

NORTH AMERICA.

229

we entered the grand fountain, the expanfive cir-
cular bafon, die fource of which arifes from under
the bales of the high woodland hills, nearly half en-
circling it. The ebullition is aftonifhing, and conti-
nual, though its greateft force of fury intermits, re-
gularly, for the fpace of thirty feconds of time : the
waters appear of a lucid fea green colour, in fome
meafure owing to the refle&ion of the leaves above :
the ebullition is perpendicular upwards, from a vaft;
ragged orifice through a bed of rocks, a great
depth below the common furface of the bafon, throw-
ing up fmall particles or pieces of white fiiells,
which fubfide with the waters at the moment of
intermiflion, gendy fettling down round about the
orifice, forming a vaft funnel. At thofe moments,
when the waters rufh upwards, the furface of the
bafon immediately over the orifice is greatly fwollen
or raifed a confiderable height; and then it is
impoftible to keep the boat or any other floating
velfel over the fountain ; but the ebullition quickly
fubfides ; yet, before the furface becomes quite even,
the fountain vomits up the waters again, and fo on
perpetually. The bafon is generally circular, about
fifty yards over ; and the perpetual ftream from it
into the river is twelve or fifteen yards wide, and
ten or twelve feet in depth ; the bafon and ftream
continually peopled with prodigious numbers and
variety of fi(h and other animals ; as the alligator,
and the manate * or fea cow, in the winter feafon.
Part of a Ikeleton of one, which the Indians had killed
laft winter, lay upon the banks of the fpring ; the
grinding teeth were about an inch in diameter ; the
ribs eighteen inches in length, and two inches and an
half in thicknefs, bending with a gentle curve. This
(jone is eftcemed equal to ivory. The flelh of this

f Trichecus manatus. Sea cow.

creature

TRAVELS IN

230

creature is counted wholefome and plcafant food ;
the Indians call them by a name which fignifies the
big beaver. My companion, who was a trader in
Talahafochte laft winter, faw three of them at one
time in this fpring: they feed chiefly on aquatic
grafs and weeds. The ground round about the head
of the bafon is generally level, for the diftance of
a few yards; then gradually afcends, forming mode-
rately high hills : the foil at top is a light, grayifh,
fandy mould, which continues fome feet in depth,
lying on a Stratum of yellowifh clay, then clay and
gravel, then fand, and fo on, ftratum upon ftratum,
down to the general foundation of teftaceous rocks.
In other places a deep ftratum of whitifh, chalky
limeftone. The vegetable produftions which cover
and ornament thofe eminences, are generally Live
Oaks, Magnolia granditlora, in the Creek tongue,
Tolo-chlucco, which fignifies the Big Bay, Laurus
Borbonia or Red Bay, in the Creek tongue, Eto-
mico, that is King’s tree, Olea Americana; and Li-
quidambar, with other trees, fhrubs, and herbace-
ous plants common in Eaft Florida.

The hills and groves environing -this admirable
fountain, affording amufmg fubjedls of inquiry, oc-
cafioned my ftay here a great part of the day ; and
towards evening we returned to the town.

Next day, early in the morning, we crofted the
river, landing on the other fhore oppofite the town,
fwimming our horfes by the fide of the canoe, each
of us holding his horfe by the bridle whilft an Indian
paddled us over. After crofting, we ftruck off
from the river into the forefts, fometimes falling
into, and keeping for a time, the ancient Spanifh
high road to Penfacola, now almoft obliterated : we
pafted four or five miles through old Spanifh fields.

4. There

NORTH AMERICA.

2JI

There are to be feen plain marks or veftiges of
the old Spanilh plantations and dwellings ; as fence
polls and wooden pillars of their houfes, ditches, and
even corn ridges and Batata hills. From the In-
dian accounts, the Spaniards had here a rich well
cultivated and populous fettlement, and a llrong
fortified poll, as they likewile had at the favanna
.and fields of Capola j but either of them far infe-
rior to one they had fome miles farther fouth-welt
towards the Apalachuchla River, now called the
Apalachean Old Fields, where yet remain vail works
and buildings, as fortifications, temples, fome brafs
cannon, mortars, heavy church bells, &c. ,

The fame groups of whitilh tellaceous rocks and
circular finks, with natural wells, make their ap-
pearance in thefe groves and fields, as obferved on
the fide of the river oppofite to Capola ; and the
fame trees, Ihrubs, and herbage without variation.
Having palled five or fix miles through thefe ancient
fields and groves, the fcene fuddenly changes, after
riding through a high forell of Oak, Magnolia,
Fraxinus, Liquidambar, Fagus fylvatica, &c.

Now at once opens to view, perhaps, the moll
■extenfive Cane-break * that is to be feen on the face
of the whole earth ; right forward, about fouth-
well, there appears no bound but the Ikies, the
level plain, like the ocean, uniting with the firma-
ment, and on the right and left hand, dark fhaded
groves, old fields, and high forells, fuch as we
had lately palled through.

The alternate bold promontories and milly points
advancing and retiring, at length, as it were, inlenli-

* Cane meadows, fo called by the inhabitants of Carolina, &c,

SU

bly

TRAVELS IN

232

bly vanifhing from fight, like the two points of a
crefcent, foftly touching the horizon, reprefent the
moil magnificent amphitheatre or circus perhaps in
the whole world. The ground defcends gently from
the groves to the edge of the Cane-break, forming
a delightful green graffy lawn. The Canes are
ten or twelve feet in height, and as thick as an or-
dinary walking ftaff ; they grow fo clofe together,
there is no penetrating them without previously cut-
ting a road. We came up to this vaft plain where
the ancient Spanifh highway croffes it to Penfacola:
there yet remain plain veftiges of the grand caufe-
way, which is open like a magnificent avenue, and the
Indians have a bad road or pathway on it. The
ground or foil of the plain is a perfectly black, rich,
foapy earth, like a ftiff clay or marie, wet and boggy
near the fihore, but, further in, firm and hard enough
in the fummer feafon, but wet and in fome places
under water during the winter.

This vaft plain, together with the forefts conti-
guous to it, if permitted (by the Siminoles who are
fovereigns of thefe realms) to be in pofieflion and
under the culture of induftrious planters and me,
chanics, would in a little time exhibit other feenes
than it does at prefent, delightful as it is ; for by
the arts of agriculture and commerce, almoft every
definable thing in life might be produced and made
plentiful here, and thereby eftablifh a rich, popu-
lous, and delightful region ; as this foil and climate
appears to be of a nature favourable for the pro-
duction of almoft all the fruits of the earth, as Corn *,
Rice, Indigo, Sugar-cane, Flax, Cotton, Silk, Cochi-
neal, and all the varieties of efculent vegetables;
and I fuppofe no part of the earth affords fuch end-

left

+ Zca,

NORTH AMERICA.

233

kfs range and exuberant pafture for cattle, deer,
flieep, fitc. : the waters every where, even in the
holes in the earth, abound with varieties of excellent
fifh; and the forefts and native meadows with wild
game, as bear, deer, turkeys, quail, and in the win-
ter feafon geeie, ducks, and other fowl: and lying
contiguous to one of the moft beautiful navigable
rivers in the world, and not more than thirty miles
from St. Mark’s on the great bay of Mexico, is moft
conveniently fituated for the Weft India trade and
the commerce of all the world.

After indulging rny imagination in the contem-
plation of thele grand diverfified fcenes, we turned
to the right hand, riding over the charming green
terrace dividing the forefts from the plains, and then
entering the groves again, continued eight or nine
miles up the river, four or five miles diftance from
its banks; having continually in view, on one fide
or other, expanfive green fields, groves, and high
forefts; the meadows glittering with diftant lakes
and ponds, alive with cattle, deer, and turkeys, and
frequently prefenting to view remains of ancient
Spanilh plantations. At length, towards evening,
we turned about and came within fight of the river,
where falling on the Indian trading path, we conti-
nued along it to the landing-place oppofite the town ;
when hallooing and difcharging our pieces, an Indian
with a canoe came prefently over, and condufted us
<0 the town before dark.

On our arrival at the trading houfe, our chief
was vifited by the head men of the town, when
inftantly the White King’s arrival in town was
announced: a meflenger had before been fent in to
prepare a feaft, the king and his retinue having
jailed feveral bears. A fire was now kindled in the

area

2J4

TRAVELS IN’

area of the public fquare; the royal ftandard was
difplayed, and the drum beat to give notice to the
town of die royal feaft.

The ribs and the choice pieces of the three great
fat bears already well barbecued or broiled, were
brought to the banquetting houfe in the fquare, with
hot bread; and honeyed water for drink.

When the feaft was over in the lquare (where
only the chiefs and warriors were admitted, with
the white people), the chief prieft, attended by
flaves, came with bafkets and carried off the re-
mainder of the victuals, &c. which was diftributed
amongft the families of the town. The king then
withdrew, repairing to the council houfe in the
fquare, whither the chiefs and warriors, old and
young, and fuch of the whites as chofe, repaired
alfo ; the king, war chief, and feveral ancient chiefs
and warriors were feated on the royal cabins -,k the
reft of the head men and warriors, old and young,
fat on the cabins on the right hand of the king’s ;
the cabins of feats on the left, and on the fame ele-
vation, are always afligned for the white people, In-
dians of other towns, and fuch of their own people
as choofe.

Our chiefs widi the reft of the white people in
town, took their feats according to order: tobacco
and pipes were brought; the calumet was lighted and
finoaked, circulating according to die ufual forms
and ceremony; and afterwards black drink con-
clude the feaft. The king converfed, drank caf-
fine, and affociated familiarly with his people and
with us.

After the public entertainment was over, the
young people began their mufic and dancing in the

fquare.

NORTH AMERICA.

235

fquare, whither the young of both fexes repaired, a$
Well as the old and middle aged: this frolick conti-
nued all night.

The White King of Talahafochte is a middle aged
man, of moderate ftature ; and though of a lofty and
majeftic countenance and deportment, yet I am con-
vinced this dignity, which really feems graceful, is
not the effedt of vain fupercilious pride, for his fmil-
jng countenance and his cheerful familiarity belpeak
magnanimity and benignity.

Next a council and treaty was held. They re-
quefted to have a trading houfe again eftablilhed in
the town, alluring us that every poffible means Ihould
conftantly be purfued to prevent any difturbance in
future on their part; they informed us that the mur-
derers of M‘Gee * and his alTociates were to be put
to death, that two of them were already fhot, and
they were in purluit of the other.

Oitr chief trader in anfwer informed them, that
the re-eftablifhment of friendfbip and trade was the
chief objedt of his vifit, and that he was happy to
find his old friends of Talahafochte in the fame good
difpofition, as they ever were towards him and the
white people; that it was his wifh to trade with
them, and that he was now come to colledt his pack-
horfes to bring them goods. The king and the
chiefs having been already acquainted with my bu-
finefs and purfuits amongft them, received me very
kindly; the king in particular complimented me,

* M'Gee was the leader of a family of white people from Georgia defined
acrofs the iflhmus, to the Mobile river: they travelled on horfe-back as far as
this town, where they procured canoes of the Indians, continuing their travels
attending the river and coating the main S. W. ; but at night, when on fhore
hunting provifions, their camp was lurprifed and attacked by a predatory band of
Indians, who flew M‘Gee and the reft of the men, and carried off the plunder and
a woman to their towns. 1

faying

travels in

S3 6

faying that I was as one of his own children or peo-
ple, and ftiould be protected accordingly, while I
remained with them, adding, “ Our whole country
is before you, where you may range about at plea-
fure, gather phyfic plants and flowers, and every
other production:” thus the treaty terminated friend-
lily and peaceably.

Next day early in the morning we left the town
and the river, in order to fix our encampment in
the forefts about twelve miles from the river; our
companions with the pack-horfes went a head to the
place of rendezvous, and our chief condu&ed me
another way to Ihow me a very curious place, call-
ed the Alligator-Hole, which was lately formed by
an extraordinary eruption or jet of water. It is
one of thofe vaft circular finks, which we beheld
almoft every where about us as we traverfed thefe
forefts, after we left the Alachua favanna. This
remarkable one is on the verge of a fpacious mea-
dow, the furface of the ground round about uneven
bv means of gentle rifing knolls : fome detached
groups of rocks and large fpreading live oaks ftiade
it on every fide: it is about fixty yards over, and
the furface of the water fix or feven feet below the
rim of the funnel or bafon: the water is trajifparent,
cool, and pleafant to drink, and well ftored with
fifh; a very large alligator at prefent is lord or chief;
many have been killed here, but the throne is never
long vacant, the vaft neighbouring ponds fo abound
with them.

The account that this gentleman, who was an
eye-witnefs of the laft eruption, gave me of its firft
appearance, being very wonderful, I proceed to re-
late what he told me whilft we were in town, which
was confirmed by die Indians, and one or more of

our

NORTH AMERICA.

237

our companions, who alfo faw its progrefs, as well as
by my own obfervations after I came to the ground.

This trader being near the place (before it had
any vifible exiftence in its prefent appearance),
about three years ago, as he was looking for fome
horfes which he expected to find in thefe parts,
on a fudden was aftonifhed by an inexprdfible
rufhing noife, like a mighty hurricane or diunder
ftorm; and looking round, he faw the earth over-
flowed by torrents of water, which came, wave
after wave, rufhing down a vale or plain very near
him, which it filled with water, and foon began to
overwhelm the higher grounds, attended with a ter-
rific noife and tremor of the earth. Recovering
from his firft furprife, he immediately refolved to
proceed for the place from whence the noife feem-
ed to come} and foon came in fight of the incom-
parable fountain, and faw, with amazement, the
floods rufhing upwards many feet high, and the ex-
panding waters, which prevailed every way, fpread-
ing themfelves far and near. He at length conclud-
ed (he faid) that the fountains of the deep were
again broken up, and that an univerfal deluge had
commenced; and inftantly turned about and fled
to alarm the town, about nine miles diftance: but
before he could reach it, he met feveral of the
inhabitants, who, already alarmed by the unufual
noife, were hurrying on towards the place; upon
which he returned with the Indians, taking their
ft and on an eminence to watch its progrefs and the
event. It continued to jet and flow in this manner
for feveral days, forming a large, rapid creek or
river, defcending and following the various courfes
and windings of the valley, for the diftance of feven
or eight miles, emptying itfelf into a vaft favanna,
6 r where

TRAVELS IN

238

where was a lake and fink which received and gave
vent to its waters.

The fountain, however, gradually ceafed to over-
flow, and finally withdrew itfelf beneath the com-
mon furface of the earth, leaving this capacious ba-
fon of waters, which, though continually near full,
hath never fince overflowed. There yet remains,
and will, I fuppofe, remain for ages, the dry bed of
the river or canal, generally four, five, and fix feet
below the natural furface of the land; the perpendi-
cular, ragged banks of which, on each fide, fhow
the different ftrata of the earth; and at places, where
ridges or a fwelling bank crofted and oppofed its
courfe and fury, are vaft heaps of fragments of
rocks, white chalk, ftones, and pebbles, which were
collected and thrown into the lateral vallies, until
the main ftream prevailed over and forced them
afide, overflowing the levels and meadows, for fome
miles diftance from the principal ftream, on either
fide. We continued down the great .vale, along its
banks, quite to the favanna and lake where it vent-
ed itfelf, while its ancient fubterranean channel was
gradually opening, which, I imagine, from fome hid-
den event or caufe had been choaked up, and which,
we may fuppofe, was the immediate caufe of the
eruption.

In the evening, having gained our encampment,
on a graffy knoll or eminence, under the cover of
lpreading oaks, juft by the grotto or fink of the lake,
which lay as a fparkling gem on the flowery bo-
fom of the ample favanna; our roving aftociates
foon came in from the ranging forefts. We conti-
nued our encampment at this place for feveral days,
ranging around the delightful country to a great dif-

tance.

NORTH AMERICA. 2J 9

lance, every day’s excurfion prefenting new fcenes
of wonder and delight.

Early in the morning our chief invited me with
him on a vifit to the town, to take a final leave of
the White King. We were gracioufly received
and treated with the utmoft civility and hofpita-
lity: there was a noble entertainment and repaft
provided againft our arrival, confifting of bears ribs,
venifon, varieties of fifh, roafted turkies (which
they call the white man’s difih), hot corn cakes, and
a very agreeable, cooling fort of jelly, which they
call conte: this is prepared from the root of the
China briar (Smilax pfeudo-China ; Smilax afpera,
fi uJtu nigio, ladice nodoia, magna, lasvi, fannaceaj
Sloan, tom. i. p. 31. t. 143. f 1. habit. Jamaica’
Virginia, Carolina, and Florida) : they chop the
roots in pieces, which are afterwards well pounded
in a wooden mortar, then being mixed with clean
water, in a tray or trough, they ftrain it through
bafkets j the fediment, which fettles to the bottom
of the fecond veffel, is afterwards dried in the open
air, and is then a very fine reddifli flour or meal : a
finall quantity of this mixed with warm water and
fweetened with honey, when cool, becomes a beau-
tiful, delicious jelly, very nouriflfing and wholefome
They alfo mix it with fine corn flour, which bein^
fried in frelh bear’s oil makes very good hot cakes
or fritters.

. °n our taking kave of the king and head men
tney entreated our chief to reprefent to the white
people, their unfeigned defire to bury in oblivion
the late breach of amity and intermiffion of com-
merce, which they trufted would never be reflefl-ed
cn the people of Talahafochte; and, laftly, that we

would

TRAVELS IN

240

would fpeedily return with merchandize as hereto-
fore; all which was cheerfully confented to, alluring
them their wilhes and fentiments fully coincided with
ours.

The chief trader, intending to fhow me fome re-
markable barren plains, on our return to our en-
campment, about noon we fat off : when we came
within fight of them, I was ftruck with aftonifh-
ment at their dreary appearance; the view South-
erly feemed endlefs waftes, prefenting rocky, gra-
velly and fandy barren plains' producing fcarcely
any vegetable fubltances, except a few fhrubby
crooked Pine trees, growing out of heaps of white
rocks, which reprefented ruins of villages, planted
over the plains; with clumps of mean Ihrubs, which
ferved only to perpetuate the perfecting power
and rage of fire, and to teftify the aridity of the
foil. The fhrubs I obferved were chiefly the fol-
lowing; Myrica cerifera, two or three varieties, one
of which is very dwarfifh, the leaves fmall, yet
toothed or finuated, of a yellowifh green colour,
owing to a farinaceous pubefcence or veficula which
covers their furfaces ; Prinos, varieties, Andromeda
ferruginea, Andr. nitida, varieties, Rhamnus fran-
gula, Sideroxylon fericium. Ilex aquifolium. Ilex
myrtifolium, Empetrum, Kalmia ciliata, Cafiine, and
a great variery of Ihrub Oaks, evergreen and deci-
duous, fome of them Angularly beautiful; Cory-
pha repens; with a great variety of herbage, par-
ticularly Cacalia, Prenanthus, Chryfocoma, Heli-
anthus, Silphium, Lobelia, Globularia, Helenium,
Polygala, varieties, Clinopodium, Cattus, various
fpecies, Euphorbia, various fpecies, Afclepias car-
nofa, very beautiful and Angular, Sophora, Dian-
thus, Ciftus, Sifymbrium, Pedicularis, Gerardia,

Lechea,

fcORTH AMERICA;

-41

Lechea, Gnaphalium, Smilax fardaparilla, Smilax
pumila, Solidago, After, Lupinus filifolius, Galega,
Hedyfaram, &c. with various fpecies of grades.
But there appeared vaft ipaces of gravel and plains
of flat rocks, juft even with the furface of the earth,
which feemed entirely deftitute of any vegetation,
unlefs we may except fome different kinds of modes
of the cruftaceous forts, as lichen, alga, &c. and
coralloidi A r ^ng feveral miles on the

them for >bfervation and making colleflions, they
at length gradually united or joined with infinite
favannas ana ponds, ftretching beyond the fight
foutherly, parallel with the rocky barrens j being
feparated only by a narrow, low, rocky ridge of
open groves, confiding of low, fpreading Live
Oaks, Zanthoxylon, Ilex, Sideroxylon, &c. ; and
here and there, {landing either in groups or alone, the
pompous Palm tree, glorioufly eredl or gracefully
bowing towards the earth ; exhibiting a mod plead-
ing contrail and wild Indian fcene of primitive un-
modified nature, ample and magnificent. We at
length came abreaft of the expanfive, glittering
lake, which divided the ample meadows, one end
of which ftretching towards a verdant eminence,
formed a little bay, which was partly encircled by
groups of white chalky rocks, fhaded with Live Oaks,
Bays, Zanthoxylon and Palm trees. We turned our
horfes to graze in the green lawns, whilft we tra-
veled the groves and meadows. Here the palmated
Convolvulus trailed over the rocks, with the He-
dera carnoda (fol. quinatis incido-derratis, perennen-
tibus), and the fantaftic CJitoria, decorating the
Ihrubs with garlands (Clit. caule volubili fol. terna-
tis pennatifque, flor. majore caeruleo, vexillo rotun-
diore, filiquis iongiftimis compreflis).

borders

frequently alighting on

R

Soon

TRAVELS IN

442

Soon after entering the forefts, we were met in
the path by a fmall company of Indians, fmiling
and beckoning to us long before we joined them.
This was a family of Talahafochte who had been
out on a hunt, and were returning home loaded
with barbecued meat, hides and honey. Their com-
pany confifted of the man, his wife and children,
well mounted on fine horfes, with a number of
pack-horfes. The man prefently offered us a fawn-
llcin of honey, which we gladly accepted, and at
parting I prefented him with fome fifh hooks, few-
ing needles, &c.; for in my travels amongft the In-
dians, I always furni filed myfelf with fuch ufeful
and acceptable little articles of light carriage, for
prefents. We parted, and before night rejoined
our companion at the Long Pond.

On our return to camp in the evening, we were
faluted by a party of young Indian warriors, who
had pitched their camp on a green eminence near
the lake, and at a fmall diftance from our camp,
under a little grove of Oaks and Palms. This
company confifted of feven young Siminoles, under
the conduct of a young prince or chief of Talaha-
fochte, a town fouthward in the ifthmus. They were
all dreffed and painted with fingular elegance, and
richly ornamented with filver plates, chains, &c.
after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes of
feathers on their crefts. On our coming up to
them, they arofe and fhook hands ; we alighted and
fat a while with them by their cheerful fire.

The young prince informed our chief that he
was in purfuit of a young fellow, who had fled
from the town, carrying off with him one of his fa-
vourite young wives or concubines. He faid mer-
rily he would have the ears of both of them before

NORTH AMERICA.

24 3

he returned. He was rather above the middle fta-
ture, and the molt perfePt human figure I ever
faw ; of an amiable engaging countenance, air and
deportment ; free and familiar in convention, yet
retaining a becoming gracefulnefs and dignity. W e
arofe, took leave of them, and eroded a little vale
covered with a charming green turf, already illu-
minated by the foft light of the full moon.

, Soon after joining our companions at camp, our
neighbours, the prince and his alTociates, paid us a
vifit. We treated them with the bell fare we had,
having till this time preierved fome of our fpiritu-
ous hquors. They left us with perfePt cordiality and
cheerfulnefs, wifhing us a good repofe, and retired
to their own camp. Having a band of mufic with
them, confiding of a drum, flutes, and a rattle
gourd, they entertained us during the night with
their mufic, vocal and inftrumental.

There is ,a languishing foftnefs and melancholy
air in the Indian convivial fongs, efpecially of the
amorous clafs, irrefiftibly moving, attraPlive, and
exquifitely pleading, efpecially in thefe folitary re-
cedes, when all nature is filent.

Behold how gracious and beneficent fhines the
rofeate morn ! Now the fun arifes and fills the plains
with light; his glories appear on the forefts, encom-
paffing the meadows, and gild the top of the tere-
binthine Pine and exalted Palms, now gently ruf-
tling by the preflure of the waking breezes : the
mufic of the leraphic cranes refounds in the fkies j
in feparate-fquadrons they fail, encircling their pre-
empts, flowly defeend beating the denfe air, and
alight on the green dewy verge of the expanfive
lake; its furface yet fmoking with the gray af-

R 2 cending

TRAVELS IN

244

cending mids, which, condenfed aloft in clouds of
Vapour, are born away by the morning breezes, and
at lad gradually vanilh on the diftant horizon. All
nature awakes to life and activity.

The ground, during our progrefs this morning,
every where about us prefented to view thofe fun-
nels, finks and wells in groups of rocks, amidd the
groves, as already recited.

Near our next encampment, one more confpicuous
than I had elfewhere obferved prcfenting itlelf I
took occafion from this favourable circumdance of
obferving them in all their variety of appearances.
Its outer fuperficial margin was fifty or fixty yards
over, which equally and uniformly on every fide
Hoped downwards towards the center: on one fide
of it was a confiderable path-way or road leading
down to the water, worn by the frequent refort of
wild creatures for drink, when the waters were
rifen even or above the rocky bed, but at this, time
they were funk many yards below the furface of the
earth. We defeended fird to the bed of rocks,
which was perforated with perpendicular tubes, ex-
actly like a walled well, four, five, or fix feet in di-
ameter, and may be compared to cells in an honey-
comb, through which appeared the water at bot-
tom : many of thefe were broken or worn one into
another, forming one vad well with uneven walls,
confiding of projecting jams, piladres, or buttrefles,
and excavated femicircular niches, as if a piece
were taken out of a honey-comb : the bed of rocks
is from fifteen to twenty feet deep or in thicknefs,
though not of one folid mafs, but of many, gener-
ally horizontal, laminae, or drata, of various thick-
nefs, from eighteen inches to two or three feet ;
which admit water to weep through, trickling down,

NORTH AMERICA.

245

drop after drop, or chafing each other in winding
little rills down to the bottom. One fide of the
vaft cool grotto was fo fhattered and broken in, 1
thought it poflible to defcend down to the water at
bottom ; and my companion alluring me that the
Indians and traders frequently go down for di ink,
encouraged me to make, the attempt, as he agreed
to accompany me.

Having provided ourfelves with a long flagged
fapling, called an Indian ladder, and each of us a
pole, by the afliftance of thefe we both defcenoed
fafely to the bottom, which we found nearly level
and not quite covered over with water; on one fide
was a bed of gravel and fragments of rocks or ftones,
and on the other a pool of water near two feet deep,
which moved with a flow current under the walls on
a bed of clay and gravel.

After our return to the furface of the earth, I
a crain ranged about the groves and grottos, examin-
ing a multitude of them. Being on the margin of
one in the open forefl, and obierving fome curious
vegetable produdtions growing on the fide of the
doping funnel towards its center, the furface of the
ground covered with grafs and herbage ; unappie-
henflve of danger, I defcended precipitately towards
the group of ilirubs ; when 1 was furpnfed and
providentially flopped in my career, at the giound
founding hollow under my feet ; and obfei ving
chafms through the ground, I quickly drew back,
and returning again with a pole with which I beat
in the earth, to my aftoniihment and dread ap-
peared the mouth of a well through the rocks, and
J obferved the water glimmering at the bottom.
Being wearied with excurfions, we returned to our
pleafant fituation on the verge of the lawn.

R 3

Next

TRAVELS IN

246

Next day we fee off on our return to the lower
trading- houfe, propofing to encamp at a favanna,
about twelve miles diftance from this, where we
were to halt again and flay a day or two, in order
to colledt together another party of horles, which
had been ftationed about that range. The young
wild horfes often breaking from the company, ren-
dered our progrefs flow and troublefome ; we how-
ever arrived at the appointed place long before
night.

I had an opportunity this day of cclletting a va-
riety of fpecimens and feeds of vegetables, fome of
which appeared new to me, particularly Sophora,
Ciftus, Tradefcantia, Hypoxis, Iatropa, Gerardia,
Pedicularis, Mimofa fenfltiva, Helonias, Melan-
thium, Lilium, Aletris, Agave, Cattus, Zamia,
Empetrum, Erythryna, Echium, &c.

Next day, the people being again engaged in
their bufmefs of ranging the forefts and plains, in
fearch of their horfes, I accompanied them, and in
our rambles we again vifited the great favanna and
lake, called the Long Pond : the lake is nearly in
the middle of the fpacious lawn, of an oblong form ;
above two miles wide and feven in length ; one end
approaching the high green banks adjoining the fo-
reftsj where there is an enchanting grove and grot-
to of pellucid waters, inhabited with multitudes of
fifh, continually afeending and defeending through
the clean, white rocks, doping from die green
verged fhore, by gradual fteps, from fmooth, flat
pavements wafhed by the fwelling undulations of
the waters.

Arrived in the evening at camp, where we found
the reft of our companions bufily employed in fe-

curing

NORTH AMERICA.

247

curing the young freakifh horfes. The next day
was employed in like manner, breaking and tutor-
ina the .young fteeds to their duty. The day fol-
lowing we took a final leave of this land of mea-
dows, lakes, groves and grottos, dire&ing our courfe
for the trading path. Having traverfed a country,
in appearance, little differing from the region ly-
ing upon Little St. Juan, we gained about twelve
miles on our way; and in the evening encamped on
a narrow ridge, dividing two favannas from each
other, near the edge of a deep pond; here our peo-
ple made a large pen or pound to fecure their wild
horfes during the night. There was a litde horn-
mock or ifiet containing a few acres of high ground,
at fome diftance from the fhore, in the drowned
favanna, almoft every tree of which was loaded witli
nefts of various tribes of water fowl, as ardea alba,
ar. violacea, ar. cerulea, ar. ftellaris criftata, ar.
ftellaris maxima, ar. virefcens, colymbus, tantalus,
mergus and others ; thefe nefts were all alive with
young, generally almoft full grown, not yet fledg-
ed, but covered with whitifh or cream coloured
foft down. We vifited this bird ifle, and fome of
our people taking fticks or poles with them, foon
beat down, and loaded themlelves with thefe fquabs,
and returned to camp ; they were almoft a lump of
fat, and made us a rich fupper ; fome we roafted,
and made others into a pilloe with rice : moft of
them, except the bitterns and tantali, were fo ex-
ceflively filhy in tafte and fmell, I could not relifh
them. It is incredible what prodigious numbers
there were, old and young, on this little ifiet, and
the confufed noife which they kept up continually,
the young crying for food inceflantly, even whilfc
in their throats, and the old alarmed and difpleafed
at our near refidence, and the depredations we had

R 4 made

TRAVELS IN

24-8

made upon them ; their various languages, cries,
and fluttering caufed an inexpreflible uproar, like a
public fair or market in a populous trading city,
when iuddenly furprifed by fome unexpected cala-
mitous event. '

About midnight, having fallen afleep, I was
awakened and greatly furprifed at finding molt of
my companions up in arms, and furioufly engaged
with a large alligator but a few yards from me.
One of our company, it feems, awoke in the
night, and perceived the monfler within a few
paces of the camp, when giving the alarm to the
reft, they readily came to his affiftance, for it was
a rare piece of fport. Some took fire-brands and
call them at his head, whilft others formed javelins
of faplins, pointed and hardened with fire ; thefe
they thruft down his throat into his bowels, which
caufed the monfter to roar and bellow hideoufly ;
but his ftreng-th and fury were fo great, that he eafily
wrenched or twilled them out of their hands, and
wielding and brandifhing them about, kept his ene-
mies at a diftance for a time. Some were for put-
ting an end to his life and fufferings with a rifle
ball, but the majority thought this would too foon
deprive them of the diverfion and pleafure of ex-
ercifing their various inventions of torture: they
at length however grew tired, and agreed in one
opinion, that he had fuffered fufficiendy; and put
an end to his exiftence. This crocodile was about
twelve feet in length: we fuppofed that he had
been allured by the fifhy fcent of our birds, and
encouraged to undertake and purfue this hazardous
adventure which coft him his life. This, with
other inftances already recited, may be fufficient to
prove the intrepidity and fubtilty of thofe voracious,
formidable animals.

We

NORTH AMERICA.

249

We fat off early next morning, and foon after
falling into the trading path, accompli (lied about
twenty miles of our journey ; and in the evening
encamped as ufual, near the banks of favannas and
ponds, for the benefit of water and accommodations
of pafture for our creatures. Next day we paffed
over part of the great and beautiful Alachua Savan-
na, whofe exuberant green meadows, with the fer-
tile hills which immediately encircle it, would, if
peopled and cultivated after the manner of the ci-
vilized countries of Europe, without crowding or
incommoding families, at a moderate eftimation,
accommodate in the happieft manner above one
hundred thoufand human inhabitants, befides mil-
lions of domeftic animals ; and I make no doubt
this place will at fome future day be one of the moll
populous and delightful feats on earth.

We came to camp in the evening, on the banks
of a creek but a few miles diftance from Cufcowil-
!a; and two days more moderate travelling brought
us fafe back again to the lower trading-houfe, &on
St. Juan, having been bleffed with health and a
profperous journey.

On my arrival at the ftores, I was happy to find
all well as we had left them; and our bringing with
us friendly talks from the Siminole towns, and the
Nation likewife, completed the hopes and wifhes
of the trading company, with refpetf: to their com-
mercial concerns with the Indians, which, as the
cheering light of the fun-beams after a dark tem-
peftuous night, diffufed joy and conviviality through-
out the little community, where were a numbefof
men with their families, who had been put out of

employment and fubfiflence, anxioufly waiting the
pappy event, • 0

CHAP.

250

TRAVELS IN

C H A P. VIII.

As a loading could not be procured until late in
die autumn, for the fchooner that was to return to
Georgia, this circumftance allowed me time and
opportunity to continue my excurfions in this land
of flowers, as* well as at the fame time to augment
my collections of feeds, growing roots, <kc.

I refolved upon another little voyage up the
river j and after refting a few days and refitting my
bark, I got on board die neceffary ftores, and fur-
nifliing myfelf with boxes to plant roots in, with
my fuzee, ammunition and fifhing tackle, 1 fet fail,
and in the evening arrived at Mount Royal. Next
morning, being moderately calm and leiene, I let
fail with a gentle leading breeze, which delight-
fully wafted me acrofs the lake to the well: coaft,
landing on an airy, fandy beach, a pleafant, cool
fituation, where I palled the night, but not without
frequent attacks from the mufquitoes ; and next day
viflted the Great Springs, where I lemained until
the fucceeding day, increafing my collections of fpe-
cimens, feeds and roots; and then recrofled the lake
to the eaftern fliore. This iliore is generally bolder
and more rocky than the weftern, it being expoled
to the lalh of the furf, .occasioned by the W. and
N. W. winds, which are bride and conftant from
nine or ten o’clock in the morning till towards mid-
nio-ht, almoft the year round ; though the S. winds
are confiderable in the fpring, and by diort inter-
vals during the fummer and winter; and tne jN.1l.

though fomenmes very violent in the fpIing an
D autumn.

NORTH AMERICA..

251,

autumn, does not continue long. The day was
employed in coafting (lowly, and making collec-
tions. In the evening I made a harbour under co-
ver of a long point of flat rocks, which defended
the mole from the furf. Having fafely moored my
bark, and chofen my camping ground juft by, dur-
ing the fine evening I reconnoitred the adjacent
groves and lawns. Here is a deferted plantation,
the property of Dr. Stork, where he once refided.
I obferved many lovely fhrubs and plants in the old
fields and Orange groves, particularly feveral fpe-
cies of Convolvulus and Ipomea, the former having
very large, white, fweet fcented flowers : they are
great ramblers, climbing and ftrolling on the fhrubs
and hedges. Next morning I re-embarked, and
continued traverfing the bold coaft north-eaftward,
and fearching the fhores at all convenient landings,
where I was amply rewarded for my affiduity in the
fociety of beauties in the blooming realms of Flo-
rida. Came to again, at an old deferted planta-
tion, the property of a Britifh gentleman, but fome
years fince vacated. A very fpacious frame build-
ing was fettling to the ground and mouldering to
earth. Here are very extenfive old fields, where
were growing the Weft-Indian or perennial Cotton
and Indigo, which had been cultivated here, and
fome fcattered remains of the ancient orange groves,
which had been left Handing at the clearing of the
plantation.

I have often been affedled with extreme reo-ret
at beholding the deftruftion and devaluation which
has been committed or indifcreetly exercifed on
thoie extenfive fruitful Orange groves, on the banks
or St. Juan, by the new planters under the Britifh
government, fome hundred acres of which, at a

d Angle

TRAVELS IN

*52

fingle plantation, have been entirely defiroycd, to
make room for the indigo, Cotton, Corn, Batatas,
&c. or, as they fay, to extirpate the mufquitoes, al-
ledging that groves near the ■ dwellings are haunts
and fhelters for thofe perfecting infedts. Some plan-
tations have not a fingle tree Handing; and where
any have been left, it is only a fmall coppice or clump,
nakedly expofed and deftitute ; perhaps fifty or an
hundred trees Handing near the dwelling-houfe, hav-
ing no lofty cool grove of expanfive Live Oaks,
Laurel Magnolias, and Palms, to thadeand proteft
them, exhibiting a mournful, fallow countenance;
their native perfectly formed and glofly green fo-
liage as if violated, defaced and torn to pieces by
the bleak winds, fcorched by the burning fun-beams
in fummer, and chilled by the winter froHs.

In the evening I took up my quarters in the beau-
tiful ifle in fight of Mount Royal. Next day, af-
ter collecting what was new and worthy of particu-
lar notice, I fet fail again, and called by the way at
Mount Royal. In the evening arrived fafe at the
Hores, bringing along with me valuable collections.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

253

CHAP. IX.

At the trading-houfe I found a very large party
of the Lower Creeks encamped in a grove, juft
without the pallifadoes. This was a predatory band
of the Siminoles, confuting of about forty warriors
deftined againft the Chadtaws of Weft Florida. They
had juft arrived here from St. Auguftine, where
they had been with a large troop of horfes for file,
and furnifhed themfelves with a very liberal fup-
ply of fpirituous liquors, about twenty kegs, each
containing five gallons.

Thefe fons of Mars had the continence and for-
titude to withftand the temptation of even tailing
a drop of it until their arrival here, where they
purpofed to lupply themfelves with neceftary arti-
cles to equip them for the expedition, and pro-
ceed on diredtly; but here meeting with our young
traders and pack-horfe men, they were foon pre-
vailed on to broach their beloved nedtar ; which in
the end caufed fome difturbance, and the confump-
tion of moft of their liquor ; for after they had once
got a fmack of it, they never were fober for ten
days, and by that time there was but little left.

In a few days this feftival exhibited one of the
moft ludicrous bacchanalian icenes that is poftible
to be conceived. White and red men and wo-
men without diftindtion, paffed the day merrily with
thefe jovial, amorous topers, and the nights in con-
vivial fongs, dances, and facrifices to Venus, as long
as they could Hand or move ; for in thefe frolicks
both lexes take fuch liberties with each other, and
8 adt.

TRAVELS IU

254

aft, without conftraint or ftiame, fuch fcenes as they
would abhor when fober or in their fenfes ; and
would endanger their ears and even their lives :
but at laft their liquor running low, and being
moft of them Tick through intoxication, they be-'
came more fober; and now the dejefted lifelefs
lots would pawn every thing they were in pof-
feifion of, for a mouthful of fpirits' to fettle their
flomachs, as they termed it. This was the time
for the wenches to make their market, as they had
the fortitude and fubtilty by diffimulation and arti-
fice to lave their fhare of the liquor during the
frolick, and that by a very lingular ftratagem ; for,
at thefe riots, every fellow who joins in the club,
has his own quart bottle of rum in his hand, hold-
ing it by the neck fo fure, that he never loofes hold
of it day or night, drunk or fober, as long as the
frolick continues ; and with this, his beloved friend,
he roves about continually, finging, roaring, and reel-
ing to and fro, either alone, or arm in arm with a
brother toper, prelenting his bottle to every one,
offering a drink ; and is fure to meet his beloved
female if he can, whom he complaifandy begs to
drink with him. But the modeft fair, veiling her
face in a mantle, refufes, at the beginning of the
frolick; but he preffes and at laft infifts. She being
furnifhed with an empty bottle, concealed in her
mantle, at laft confents, and taking a good long
draught, blufhes, drops her pretty face on her bo-
fom, and artfully difcharges the rum into her bot-
tle, and by repeating this artifice foon fills it:
this fhe privately conveys to her fecret ftore, and
then returns to the jovial game, and fo on during
the feftival ; and when the comic farce is over,
the wench retails this precious cordial to them at her
own price.

There

NORTH AMERICA.

255

There were a few of the chiefs, particularly the
Long Warrior their leader, who had the prudence
and fortitude to refill the alluring temptation durino-
the whole farce ; but though he was a powerful chief'
a king, and a very cunning man, he was not able
to controul thefe madmen, although he was ac-
knowledged by the Indians to have communion
with powerful invifible beings or fpirits, and on
that account efleemed worthy of homage and great
relpedt.

After the Indians became fober, they began to
prepare for their departure. In the morning early
the Long Warrior and chiefs lent a meflenger to
Mr. M£Latche, defiring to have a talk with him
upon matters of moment : accordingly, about noon
they arrived. The conference was held in the piazza
of the council houfe : the Long Warrior and chiefs
who attended him, took their feats upon a loner
bench adjoining the fide or front of the houfe, reach-
ing the whole length of it, on one hand ; and the
principal white traders on the other, all on the
lame feat. I was admitted at this conference j Mr.
M'Latche and the Long Warrior fat next to each
other ; my late companion, the old trader, and mv-
lelr- fat next to him. 1

The Long Warrior fpake, faying, that he and
his companions were going to fight their ene-
mies the Chadlaws; and that fome of his affociates
being in want of blankets, fhirts, and fome other
articles, they declined Applying themfelves with
them at St. Auguftine, becaufe they had rather flick
clofe to their old friend Mr. Spalding, and brina
ieir buckfkins, furs, and other produce of their
country (which they knew were acceptable) to

TRAVELS IN

256

his trading houfe, to purchafe what they wanted.
But not having the fkins, &c. with them to pay for
fuch things as they had occafion for, they doubt-
ed not, but that on their return, they fhould bring
with them fufficient not only to pay their debts,
about to be contradled, but be able to make other
confiderable purchafes, as the principal objeft of
this expedition was hunting on the plentiful borders
of the Chadlaws: Mr. M'Latche hefitating, and

exprefling fome diflatisfadlion at his requeft; par-
ticularly at the length of time and great uncer-
tainty of obtaining pay for the goods ; and moreover
his being only an agent for Mefirs. Spalding and Co.
and the magnitude and unprecedented terms of the
Long Warrior’s demands; required the company’s
aflent and diredtions before he could comply with
their requeft.

This anfwer difpleafed the Indian chief, and I
obferved great agitation and tumult in his pafiions,
from his adtions, hurry and rapidity of fpeech and
expreflion. The old interpreter who fat by afked
me if I fully underflood the debate; I anfwered that
I apprehended the Long Warrior was difpleafed ;
he told me he was fo, and then recapitulated what
had been faid refpedling his queftions and Mr.
M'Latche’s anfwer; adding, that upon his hefitation
he immediately replied, in feeming difguft and
great expreflions of anger, “ Do you prefume to
refule me credit; certainly you know who I am
and what power I have : but perhaps you do not
know, that if the matter required it, and I pleafed,
I could command and caufe the terrible thun-
der * now rolling in the fkies above, to defeend

« It thundered, lightened, and rained in a violent manner during thefe debates.

upon

NORTH AMERICA.

*5$

upon your head, in rapid fiery lhafts, and lay you
proftrate at my feet, and confume your ftores,
turning them inftantly into dull and allies.” Mr.
M'Latche calmly replied, that he was fully fenfi-
ble that the Long Warrior was a great man, a
powerful chief of the bands of the refpedlable Si-
minoles, that his name was terrible to his ene-
mies, but ftill he doubted if any man upon earth
had fuch power, but rather believed that thunder
and lightning was under the direftion of the Great
Spirit i but however, fince we are not difpofed to
deny your power, fupernatural influence and inter-
courfe with the elements and fpiritual agents, or
withhold the refpedt and homage due to fo great a
prince of the Siminoles, friends and allies to the
white people ; if you think fit now in the prefence
of us all here, command and caufe yon terrible
thunder with its rapid fiery fhafcs, to defcend upon
the top of that Live Oak* in front of us, rend it in
pieces, fcatter his brawny limbs on the earth and
confume them to allies before our eyes, we' will
then own your fupernatural power and dread your
dilpleafure.

After fome filence die prince became more calm
and eafy, and returned for anlwer, that recollebling
the former friendfliip and good underitanding, which
had ever fubfifted betwixt the white people and red
people of the Siminole bands, and in particular, the
many a6ls of friendfliip and kindnefs received from
Mr. M£Latche, he would overlook this affront ; he
acknowledged his realoning and expoftulations to be
juft and manly, that he Ihould fupprefs hisrefentment,
and withhold his power and vengeance at prelent.
Mr. M Latche concluded by faying, that he was not

travels in

258

in the leafl: intimidated by his threats of deftroying
him with thunder and lightning, neither was he
dilpofed in any manner to difpleafe the Siminoles,
and fhould certainly comply with his requifitions,
as far as he could proceed without the advice and
directions of the company ; and finally agreed to
fupply him and his followers with fuch things as they
ftood moft in need of, fuch as Ihirts, blankets and
fome paints, one half to be paid for dire&ly, and
the remainder to (land on credit until their return
from the expedition. This determination entirely
fatisfied the Indians. We broke up the confer-
ence in perfect amity and good humour, and they
returned to their camp, and in the evening, ratified
it with feafting and dancing, which continued all
next day with tolerable decorum. An occurrence
happened this day, by which I had an opportunity
of obferving their extraordinary veneration or dread
of the rattle lnake. I was in the forenoon bufy in
my apartment in the council-houfe, drawing fome
curious flowers ; when, on a fudden, my attention
was taken off- by a tumult without, at the Indian
camp. I ftepped to the door opening to the piazza,
where I met my friend the old interpreter, who
informed me that there was a very large rattle
fnake in the Indian camp, which had taken pofleflion
of it, having driven the men, women and children
out, and he heard them faying that they would fend
for Puc-Puggy (for that was the name which diey
had given me, fignifying the Flower Hunter) to
kill him or take him out of their camp. I anfwer-
ed, that I defired to have nothing to do with him,
apprehending fome difagreeable conlequences; and
defired that the Indians might be acquainted that I
was engaged in bufinefs that required application

and quiet, and was determined to avoid it if

poflible.

NORTH AMERICA.

259

polfible. My old friend turned about to carry my
anfwer to the Indians. I prefemtly heard them ap-
proaching and calling for Puc-Puggy. Starting up
to efcape from their fight by a back door, a par-
ty confiding of three young fellows, richly drefled
and ornamented. Hepped in, and with a countenance
and action of noble fimplicity, amity and complai-
fance, requefted me to accompany them to their
encampment. I defired them to excufe me at this
time ; they pleaded and entreated me to go with
diem, in order to free them from a great rattle
fnake which had entered their camp ; that none of
them had freedom or courage to expel him ; and
underftanding that it was my pleafure to collect all
their animals and other natural productions of their
land, defired that I would come with them and take
him away, that I was welcome to him. I at length
confented and attended on them to their encamp-
ment, where I beheld the Indians greatly difturbed
indeed. The men with flicks and tomahawks, and
the women and children collected together at a
diftance in affright and trepidation, whilft the dread-
ed and revered ferpent leifurely traverfed their
camp, vifiting the fire places from one to another,
picking up fragments of their provifions and licking
their platters. The men gathered around me, ex-
citing me to remove him : being armed with a
lightwood knot, I approached the reptile, who in-
llantly collected himfelf in a vaft coil (their attitude
of defence) I call my miffile weapon at him, which
luckily taking his head, difpatched him inftant-
ly, and laid him trembling at my feet. I took out
my knife, fevered his head from his body, then turn-
ing about, the Indians complimented me with every
demonftration of fatisfaction and approbation for
my heroifm, and friendfhip for them. I carried off

S 2 the

TRAVELS IN

l6o

the head of the ferpent bleeding in my hand as a
trophy of victory; and taking out the mortal fangs,
depofited them carefully amongft my collections. I
had not been long retired to my apartment, before
I was again roufed from it by a tumult in the yard;
and hearing Puc-Puggy called on, I ftarted up,
when inftantly the old interpreter met me again, .
and told me the Indians were approaching in order
to fcratch me. I alked him for what ? he anfwer-
ed for killing, the rattle fnake within their camp.
Before I could make any reply or effect my efcape,
three young fellows finging, arm in arm, came up
to me. I obferved one of the three was a young
prince who had, on my fii ft interview with him, de-
clared himfelf my friend and proteCtor, when he
told me that if ever occafion ffould offer in hispre-
fence, he would rifk his life to defend mine or my
property. This young champion ftood by his two
affociates, one on each fide of him : the two affect-
ing a countenance and air of difpleafure and impor-
tance, inftantly prelenting their fcratching inftru-
ments, and flourifhing them, fpoke boldly, and faid
that I was too heroic and violent, that it would be
good for me to lofe fome of my blood to make me
more mild and tame, and for that purpofe they were
come to fcratch me. They gave me no time to ex-
poftulate or reply, but attempted to lay hold on
me, which I refilled ; and my friend, the young
prince, interpofed and puffed them off, faying that
I was a brave warrior and his friend ; that they
fliould not infult me; when inftantly they altered
their countenance and behaviour : they all whoop-
ed in chorus, took me friendly by the hand, clapped
me on the ffoulder, and laid their hands on their
breads in token of fincere friendffip, and laughing
aloud, faid I was a fincere friend to the Siminoles>

a wor-

NORTH AMERICA.

261

a worthy and brave warrior, and that no one fhould
hereafter attempt to injure me. They then all three
joined arm in arm again and went off, fhouting and
proclaiming Puc-puggy was their friend, &c. Thus
it feemed that the whole was a ludicrous farce to
fatisfy their people and appeafe the manes* of the
dead rattle fnake.

The next day was employed by the Indians in
preparations for their departure, fuch as taking up
their goods from the trading houfe, collecting to-
gether their horfes, making up their packs, &c.
and the evening joyfully fpent in fongs and dances./
The fucceeding morning after exhibiting the war
farce they decamped, proceeding on their expedi-
tion againft their enemy.

* Thcfe people never kill the rattle fnake or any other ferpent, faying if
they do fo, the fpirit of the killed fnake will excite or influence his living
Jcindred or relatives to revenge the injury or violence done to him when alive.

s 3

CHAP.

TRAVELS If

t6z

CHAP. X.

But let us again refume the fubjeCl of the rat-
tle fnake; a wonderful creature, when we confider
his form, nature and difpofition. It is certain
that he is capable by a punCture or fcratch of one
of his fangs, not only to kill the larged animal in
America, and that in a few minutes time, but to
turn the whole body into corruption ; but fuch is
the nature of this dreadful reptile, that he cannot
run or creep fader than a man or child can walk,
and he is never known to drike until he is firft
adaulted or fears himfelf in danger, and even then
always gives the earlieft warning by the rattles at
the extremity of the tail. I have in the courfe of
my travels in the Southern dates (where they are the
larged, mod numerous and fuppofed to be the mod
venemous and vindictive) dept unknowingly foclofe
as almod to touch one of them with my feet, and
when I perceived him he was already drawn up in
circular coils ready for a blow. But however in-
credible it may appear, the generous, I may fay
magnanimous creature lay as dill and motionlefs as if
inanimate, his head crouched in, his eyes almod
Ihut. I precipitately withdrew, unlefs when I have
been fo fhocked with furprife and horror as to be in
a manner rivetted to the fpot, for a fhort time not
having drength to go away j when he often (lowly
extends himfelf and quietly moves off in a direCt
line, unlefs purfued, when he ereCts his tail as far as
the rattles extend, and gives the warning alarm by
intervals. But if you purfue and overtake him with
a fliew of enmity, he indantly throws himfelf into

NORTH AMERICA.

2<?3

the fpiral coil ; his tail by the rapidity of its mo-
tion appears like a vapour, making a quick tremu-
lous found ; his whole body fwells through rage,
continually riling and falling as a bellows ; his beau-
tiful particoloured Ikin becomes fpeckled and rough
by dilatation ; his head and neck are flattened, his
cheeks fwollen and his lips conftritted, difcover-
ing his mortal fangs; his eyes red as burning coals,
and his brandilhing forked tongue of the colour of
the hotteft flame, continually menaces death and
deftrucflion, yet never ftrikes unlefs fure of his
mark.

The rattle fnake is the largeft ferpent yet known
to exift in North America. I have heard of their
having been feen formerly, at the firft fettling of
Georgia, feven, eight and even ten feet in length
and fix 01 eight inches diameter ; but there are none
of that fize now to be feen ; yet I have feen them
above fix feet in length, and above fix inches in
thicknefs, 01 as large as a man’s leg ; but their ge-
neral fize is four, five, and fix feet in length"
They are fuppofed to have the power of fasci-
nation in an eminent degree, fo as to inthral their
prey. It is generally believed that they charm
birds, rabbits, fquirrels and other animals, and by
itedfaftly looking at them poflefs them with infa-
tuation : be the caufe what it may, the miferable
creatures undoubtedly ftrive by every poffible
means to efcape, but alas! their endeavours are in
vain, they at laft lofe the power of refinance and
flutter or move flowly, but relu&antly, towards the
yawning jaws of their devourers, and creep into
their mouths, or he down and buffer themfelves to
be taken and fwallowed.

S 4

Since,

TRAVELS IN

26 4

Since, within the circle of jny acquaintance, I
am known to be an advocate or vindicator of the
benevolent and peaceable difpofition of animal
creation in general, not only towards mankind,
whom they feem to venerate, but alfo towards one
another, except where hunger or the rational and
necefTary provocations of the fenfual appetite inter-
fere, I fhall mention a few inftances, amongft
many, which I have had an opportunity of remark-
ing during my travels, particularly with regard to
the animal I have been treating of. I fhall ftridtly
confine myfelf to fadts.

When on the fea coaft of Georgia, I confented,
with a few friends, to make 4 party of amufement
at fifhing and fowling on Sapeho, one of the lea
Coaft iflands. We accordingly defcended the Alata-
maha, crofted the found and landed on the North
end of the iftand, near the inlet, fixing our encamp-
ment at a pleafant fituation, under the fhade of a
grove ofLive Oaks and Laurels*, on the high banks
ofa creek which we afcended, winding through a
fait marlh, which had its firurce from a fwamp and
favanna in the iftand : our fituation elevated and
open, commanded a comprehenfive landfcape ;
the great ocean, the foaming furf breaking on the
fandy beach, the fnowy breakers on the bar, the
endlefs chain of iflands, checkered found and high
continent all appearing before us. The diverting
toils of the day were not fruitlefs, affording us op-
portunities of furnifhingourfelves plentifully with a
variety of game, fifh and oyfters for our fupper.

About two hundred yards from our camp was a
cool fpring, amidft a grove of the odoriferous My-

* Magnolia grandiflora, called by the inhabitants the Laurel.

rica :

NORTH AMERICA. 2^5

rica: the winding path to this falubrious fountain led
through a graffy favanna. I vifited the fpring feve-
ral times in the night, but little did I know, or any
of my carelefs drowfy companions, that every
time we vifited the fountain we were in imminent
danger, as I am going to relate. Early in the
morning, excited by unconquerable third, I a-
rofe and went to the fpring ; and having, thought-
lefs of harm or danger, nearly half paid the dewy
vale, along the ferpentine foot path, my hafly fleps
were fuddenly flopped by the fight of a hideous ler-
pent, the formidable rattle fnake, in a high fpiral
coil, forming a circular mound half the height of
my knees, within fix inches of the narrow path.
As foon as 1 recovered my fenfes and flrength from
fo fudden a furprife, 1 flarted back out of his reach,
where I flood to view him : he lay quiet whilft I
furveyed him, appearing no way furprifed or dif-
turbed, but kept his half-fliut eyes fixed on me.
My imagination andfpirits were in a tumult, almofl
equally divided betwixt thankfgiving to thefupreme
Creator and preferver, and the dignified nature of
the generous though terrible creature, who had fuf-
fered us all to pafs many times by him during the
night, without injuring us in the leafl, although we
muft have touched him, or our fleps guided there-
.from by a fupreme guardian fpirit. 1 haftened back
to acquaint my affociates, but with a determina-
tion to protect the life of the generous ferpent. I
prefently brought my companions to the place, who
were, beyond expreflion, furprifed and terrified at
the fight of the animal, and in a moment acknow-
ledged their efcape from deflrudlion to be miracu-
lous ; and I am proud to affert, that all of us, except
ene perfon, agreed to let him lie undifturbed, and

that

TRAVELS IN

iC6

that perfon at length was prevailed upon to fuffer
him to efcape.

Again, when in my youth, attending my father
on a journey to the Catfkill Mountains, in the go-
vernment of New-york; having nearly afcended
the peak of Giliad, being youthful and vigorous in
the purfuit of botanical and novel ob'ietts, I had
gained thefummit of a fteep rocky precipice, a-head
of our guide ; when juft entering a ftiady vale, I
faw at the root of a fmall flhrub, a fingular and
beautiful appearance, which I remember to have
inftantly apprehended to be a large kind of Fungus
which we call Jews ears, and was juft drawing back
my foot to kick it over ; when at the inftant, my
father being near, cried out, a rattle fnake my
fon ! andjerked me back, which probably faved my
life. I had never before feen one. This was of the
kind which our guide called a yellow one, it was
very beautiful, fpeckled and clouded. My father
pleaded for his life, but our guide was inexorable,
faying he never fpared the life of a rattle fnake,
and killed him; my father took his fkin and fangs.

Some years after this, when again in company
-with my father on a journey into Eaft Florida, on
the banks of St. Juan, at Fort Picolata, attending
the congrefs at a treaty between that government
and the Creek Nation, for obtaining a territory
from that people to annex to the new government;
after the Indians and a detachment from the gar-
rifon of St. Auguftine had arrived and encamped
feparately, near the fort, fome days elapfed before
the bufinels of the treaty came on, waiting the ar-
rival of a veflel from St. Auguftine, on board of
which were the prefents for the Indians. My fa-
ther employed this time of leifure in little excur-

fions

NORTH AMERICA.

*67

fions round about the fort 5 and one morning,
being the day the treaty commenced, I attended
him on a botanical excurfion. Some time after we
had been rambling in a fwamp about a quarter of
a mile from the camp, I being a-head a few paces,
my father bid me obferve the rattle fnake before
and juft at my feet. I flopped and faw the monfter
formed in a high fpiral coil, not half his length from
my feet : another ftep forward would have put my
life in his power, as I muft have touched if not
{tumbled over him. The fright and perturbation of
my fpirits at once excited refentment ; at that time
I was entirely infenfible to gratitude or mercy. I
inftantly cut off a little fapling and foon dilpatched
him : this ferpent was about fix feet in length, and
as thick as an ordinary man’s leg;. The rencoun-
ter deterred us from proceeding on our refearches
for that day. So I cut off a long tough withe or
vine, which faftening round the neck of the Haiti
ferpent, I dragged him after me, his fcaly body
founding over the ground, and entering the camp
with him in triumph, was foon furrounded by the
amazed multitude, both Indians and my country-
men. The adventure foon reached the ears of the
commander, who fent an officer to requeft that,
if the fnake had not bit himfelf, he might have
him ferved up for his dinner. I readily delivered
up the body of the fnake to the cooks, and being
that day invited to dine at the governor’s table, faw
the fnake ferved up in feveral diffies ; governor
Grant being fond of the flelh of the rattle fnake.
I tailed of it but could not fwallow it. I, however
was forry after killing the ferpent, when cooly re-
collecting every circumftance. He certainly had it
in his power to kill me almoft inftantly, and I make
no doubt but that he was confcious of it. T pro-

mifed

i 6$

TRAVELS JN

mifed myfelfthat I would never again be acceffary
to the death of a rattle fnake, which promife I have
invariably kept to. This dreaded animal is eafily
killed; a flick no thicker than a man’s thumb is fuf-
ficient to kill the largeft at one ftroke, if well di-
rected, either on the head or acrofs the back ; nor
can they make their efcape by running off, nor in-
deed do they attempt it when attacked.

The moccafin fnake is a large and horrid ferpent
to all appearance, and there are very terrifying
ftories related of him by the inhabitants of the
Southern ftates, where they greatly abound, par-
ticularly in Eaft Florida : that their bite is always
incurable, the flefh for a confiderable fpace about
the wound rotting to the bone, which then becomes
carious, and a general mortification enfues, which
infallibly deftroys the patient; the members of the
body rotting and dying by piecemeal : and that there
is no remedy to prevent a lingering miferable death
but by immediately cutting away the flefh to the
bone, for fome diftance round about the wound.
In fhape and proportion of parts they much refem-
ble the rattle fnake, and are marked or clouded
much after the fame manner, but the colours more
dull and obfcure ; and in their difpofition feem to
agree with that dreadful reptile, being flow of pro-
greflion, and throwing themfelves in a fpiral coil
ready for a blow when attacked. They have one pe-
culiar quality, which is this, when difcovered, and
obferving their enemy to take notice of them, after
throwing themfelves in a coil, they gradually raife
their upper mandible or jaw until it falls back near-
ly touching their neck, at the fame time flowly vi-
brating their long purple forked tongue, their crooked
poifonous fiipgs dire&ed right at you, which gives the

creature

NORTH AMERICA.

269

creature a molt terrifying appearance. They are
from three to four and even five feet in length,
and as thick as a man’s leg; they are not numerous,
yet too common, and a fufficient terror to the mi-
ferable naked Haves, who are compelled to labour
in the fwamps and low lands whereonly they abound.

I never could find any that knew an inftance of
any perfon’s lofing their life from the bite of them,
only by hearfay. Yeti am convinced it is highly
prudent for every perfon to be on their guard a-
gainft them. They appear to be of the viper tribe,
from their fwelling of their body and flattening their
neck when provoked, and from their large poifon-
ous fangs : their head, mouth and eyes are remark-
ably large.

There is another fnake in Carolina and Florida
called the moccafin, very different from this; which
is a very beautiful creature, and I believe not of
a deftruttive or vindictive nature. Thefe when grown
to their greateft fize are about five feet in length,
and near as thick as a man’s arm; their fkin fcaly
but fmooth and fhining, of a pale grey and fky co-
lour ground, uniformly marked with tranfverfe un-
dulatory ringlets or blotches of a deep nut brown,
edged with red or bright Spanifh brown. They ap-
pear innocent, very a£tive and fwifr, endeavouring
to efcape from one ; they have no poifonous fangs.
Thefe are feen in high foreft lands, about rotten
logs or decayed fallen limbs of trees, and they har-
bour about old log buildings. They feem to be a
fpecies, if not the very fame fnake which, in Penfyl-
vania and Virginia, is called the wampom fnake; but
here inwarmer Southern climes they grow to a much
larger fize, and from the fame accident their colour
may be more variable and deeper. They are by

the

TRAVELS IN’

270

the inhabitants aflerted to be dangeroufly venemous,
their bite incurable, &c. But as I could never learn
an inftance of their bite being mortal or attended
with any dangerous confequence, and have had
frequent opportunities of obferving their nature and
difpofition, 1 am inclined to pronounce them an
innocent creature, with refpett to mankind.

The baftard rattle fnake, by fome called ground
rattle fnake, is a dangerous little creature : their
bite is certainly mortal if prefect medical relief is
not adminiftered : they feem to be much of the na-
ture of the afp or adder of the old world.

This little viper is in form and colour much like
the rattle fnake, but not fo bright and uniformly
marked : their head is broader and fhorter in pro-
portion to the other parts of their body : their
nofe prominent and turned upwards: their tail be-
comes fuddenly fmall from the vent to the extremi-
ty, which terminates with three minute articula-
tions, refembling rattles : when irritated they turn
up their tail, which vibrates fo quick as to appear
like a mift or vapour, but caufes little or no found
or noife 5 yet it is the common report of the inha-
bitants, that they caufe that remarkable vehe-
ment noife, fo frequently obferved in forefts in the
heat of fummer and autumn, very terrifying to
ftrangers, which is, probably, caufed by a very fa-
ble fmall infect of the genus cicadae, or which are
called locufts in America ; yet it is poflible I may
be miftaken in this conjecture. This dangerous vi-
per is from eight to ten inches in length, and of
proportionable thicknefs. They are fpiteful, fnap-
pifh creatures; and throwing themlelves into a little
coil, they fwell and flatten themfelves, continually
darting out their head ; and they feem capable of

1 v fpringing

NORTH AMERICA.

27t

fpringing beyond their length. They feem deftitute
of the pacific difpofition and magnanimity of the
rattle fnake, and are unworthy of an alliance with
him. No man ever faves their lives, yet they remain
too numerous, even in the oldeft fettled parts of
the country.

1 he gieen fnake is a beautiful innocent creature ;
they are from two to three feet in length, but not
fo thick as aperfons little finger; of the fineft green
colour. They are very abundant, commonly feen
on the limbs of trees and Ihrubs : they prey upon
infers and reptiles, particularly the little o-reen
chameleon : and the forked tailed hawk or kite
feeds on both of them, fnatching them off the
boughs of the trees.

The ribband fnake is another very beautiful in-
nocent ferpent : they are eighteen inches in length,
and about the thicknefs of a man’s little finger ;
the head is. very fmall } the ground colour of al'ulJ,’
clear vermilion, variegated with tranfverfe bars or
zones of a dark brown, which people fancy repre-
fents a ribband wound round the creature’s body :
they are altogether inoffenfive to man, and are in a
manner domeftic, frequenting old wooden buildings
open grounds and plantations.

The chicken fnake is a large, llrong and fwift
ierpent, fuc or feyen feet in length, but fcarcely
lo thick as a man’s wriftj they are of a cinereous
earthy colour, and ftriped longitudinally with broad
lines or lifts, of a dulky or blackilh colour. They
aie a domeftic fnake, haunting about houfes and
plantations ; and would be ufeful to man if tamed
and properly tutored, being great devourers of rats,

but

TRAVELS IN

272

but they are apt to difturb hen roofts and prey
upon chickens. They are as innocent as a worm
with refpe.61 to venom, are eafily tamed and foon
become very familiar.

The pine or bull fnake is very large and inoffen-
five with refpedt to mankind, but devours fquirrels,
birds, rabbits, and every other creature it can
take as food. They are the largeft fnake yet known
in North America, except the rattle fnake, and per-
haps exceed him in length : they are pied black and
white : they utter a terrible loud hiding noife,
founding very hollow and like diftant thunder, when
irritated, or at the time of incubation, when the
males contend with each other for the defired fe-
male. Thefe ferpents are alfo called horn fnakes,
from their tail terminating with a hard, horny fpur,
which they vibrate very quick when difturbed, but
they never attempt to ftrike with it ; they have
dens in the earth, whither they retreat precipitately
when apprehenfive of danger.

There are many other fpecies of fnakes in the
regions of Florida and Carolina ■, as the water
fnake, black fnake, garter fnake, copper belly, ring
neck, and two or three varieties of vipers, befides
thofe already noticed in myjournal. Since I have
begun to mention the animals of thefe regions, this
may be a proper place to enumerate the other tribes
which I obfervcd during my perigrinations. I lhall
begin with the frogs (ranae.)

(1) The largeft frog known in Florida and on
the fea coaft of Carolina, is about eight or nine
inches in length from the nofe to the extremity of
the toes : they are of a dufky brown or black co-
lour on the upper fide, and their belly or under fide

NORTH AMERICA.

*73

■White, fpotted and clouded \yith dufky fpots of va-
rious fize and figure ; their legs and thighs alfo are
variegated vVith tranfverfe ringlets, of dark browii
or black ; and they are yellow and green about
their mouth and lips, iTey live in wet fwamps and
marfhes, on the fho'res of large rivers and lakes j
their voice is loud and hideous,- greatly refembling
the grunting of a fwine ; but not near as loud as the
voice of the bull frog of Virginia and Penfylvania :
neither do they arrive to half their fize, the bull frog
being frequently eighteen inches in length, and
their roaring as loud as that of a bull.

(2) The bell frog, fo called becaufe their voice
is fancied to be exactly like the found of a loud
tow bell; This tribe being very numerous, ancl
uttering their voices in companies or by large diA
trifts, when one begins another anfwers ; thus the
found is caught and repeated from one to another,
to a great diftancC round about, caufing a furpri-
fing noiie for a few minutes,- riling and linking ac-
cording as the wind fits, when it nearly dies away,
or is foftly kept up by diftant diftri&s or commu-
nities : thus the noife is repeated continually, and
as one becomes familiarifed to it, is not unmuficak
though at firft, to (h angers, itfeems clamorous and
difgulling.

(3) A beautiful green frog inhabits the graffy,

marfhy fhores of thefe large rivers. They are very1
numerous, and their noife exadtly reiembles the
barking of little dogs, or the yelping of puppies:
thefe likewife make a great clamour, but as their
notes are fine, and uttered in chorus, by fcparatC
bands or communities, far and near, rifing and
falling with the gentle breezes, affords a pleafmp-
kind of mufic. ^

T

(4) There

274

TRAVELS IN

(4) There is befides this a lefs green frog,
which is very common about houfes : their notes
are remarkably like that of young chickens : thefe
raife their chorus immediately preceding a Jfhower
of rain, with which they feem delighted.

(5) A little grey fpeckled frog is in prodigi-
ous numbers in and about the ponds and favannas
on high land, particularly in Pine forefts : their lan-
guage or noife is alfo uttered in chorus, by large
communities or feparate bands ; each particular
note refembles the noife made by fh iking two peb-
bles together under the furface of the water, which
when thoufands near you utter their notes at the
fame time, and is wafted to your ears by a
fudden flow of wind, is very furprifing, and does
not ill refemble the rufhing noife made by a vaft
quantity of gravel and pebbles together, at once
precipitated from a great height.

(6) There is yet an extreme diminutive fpecies
of frogs, which inhabits the graffy verges of ponds
in favannas : thefe are called favanna crickets, are
of a dark afli or dufky colour, and have a very
picked nofe. At the times of very great rains, in
the autumn, when the favannas are in a manner
inundated, they are to be feen in incredible multi-
tudes clambering up the tall grafs,weed, &c. round
the verges of the favannas, bordering on the higher
ground ; and by an inattentive perfon might be ta-
ken for fpiders or other infefts. Their note is very
feeble, not unlike the chattering of young birds or
crickets.

(7) The fhad frog, fo called in Penfylvania from
their appearing and croaking in the ipring feafon,
at the time tne people fifh for fhad : this is a

beautiful '

tfORTH AMERICA.

275

beautiful fpotted frog, of a (lender form, five or fix
inches in length from the nofe to the extremities ;
of a dark olive green, blotched with clouds and
ringlets of a dufky 'colour : thefe are remarkable
jumpers and enterprifing hunters, leaving their
ponds to a great diftance in fearch of prey. They
abound in rivers, fwamps and marfhes, in the Sou-
thern regions ; in the evening and fultry fummer
days, particularly in times of drought, are very
noify ; and at fome diftance one would be almoft
perfuaded that there were aflemblies of men in fe-
rious debate. Thefe have alfo a fucking or cluck-
ing noife, like that which is made by fucking in the
tongue under the roof of the mouth. Thefe are
the kinds of water frogs that have come under my
obfervation ; yet I am perfuaded that there are yet
remaining feveral other fpecies.

(8) The highland frogs, commonly called toads,
are of two fpecies, the red and black. The for-
mer, which is of a reddifli brown or brick colour,
is the largeft, and may weigh upwards of one pound
when full grown : they have a difagreeable look,
and when irritated, they fwell and raife themfelves
up on their four legs and croak, but are no ways
venomous or hurtful to man. The other fpecies
are one third lefs, and of a black or dark dufky co-
lour. The legs and thighs of both are marked with
blotches and ringlets of a darker colour, which ap-
pear more confpicuous when provoked: the fmaller
black fpecies are the moft numerous. Early in the
fpring feafon, they affemble by numberlefs multi-
tudes in the drains and ponds, when their univerfal
croaking and (houts are great indeed, yet in fome
degree not unharmonious. After this breeding time
they crawl out of the water and fpread themfelves

T 2 all

TRAVELS IN

276

all over the country. Their fpawn being hatchet!
in the warm water, the larva is there nourifhed,
palling through the like metamorphofes as the
water frogs ; and as foon as they obtain four feet,
whilft yet no larger than crickets, they leave the
fluid nurfery-bed, and hop over the dry land after
their parents.

The food of thefe amphibious creatures, when
out of the water, is every kind of infecft, reptile,
&c. they can take, even ants and fpiders ; nature
having furnifhed them with an extreme long tongue,
which exudes a vifcid or glutinous liquid, they be-
ing fecreted under covert, fpring fuddenly upon
their prey, or dart forth their tongue as quick as
lightning, and inftaritly drag into their devouring
jaws the unwary infeft. But whether they prey up-
on one another, as the water frogs do, I know not.

There are feveral fpecies of the lizard kind be-
fides the alligator, which is by naturalifts allowed
to be a fpecies of that genus.

The green lizard or little green chameleon is a
pretty innocent creature : the largelt I have feen
were not more than leven inches in length : they
appear commonly of a fine green colour, having a
large red gill under their throat : they have the fa-
culty of changing colour, which, notwithflanding
the fpecious reafoning of phyfiologifts, is a very
furprifing phenomenon. The ftriped lizard, called
fcorpion, and the blue bellied fquamous lizards I;
have already mentioned. There is a large copper
coloured lizard, and a very {lender one of a fine
blue colour, and very fwift ; the tail of this laft,
which is very long and flender, is as fubjeft to be

broken off as that of the glafs fnake. Thefe two

laft

NORTH AMERICA.

laft are become very fcarce, and when feen are dis-
covered about old log buildings.

Here are feveral fpecies of the tortoife, befides
thofe already mentioned; as the fmall land tor-
toife, already defcribedby every traveller. There
is a good figure and defcription of him in G.
Edwards’s Gl. Nat. Hift. vol. II. p. 205. There
are two fpecies of frefh-water tortoifes inhabiting
the tide water rivers; one of which is large, weigh-
ing ten or twelve pounds, the back fhell of nearly
an oval form, and raifed very high, the belly
ihell flat and entire, but deeply fcolloped oppofite
the legs. The other fpecies are fmall, com-
paratively, and the back fliell lightly raifed : both

fpecies are food for mankind and efteemed deli-
cious.

r °tter 0utra) is common, but more

lo in Weft-Flonda, towards the mountains. The
feveral fpecies of muftela are common ; as the
mnk, weafel and polecat (putorius). Racoons and
opoflims are in great abundance; thefe animals

“ ddrC1° n and healthy food* There

are two fpecies of wild-rats ; but neither of them
neai as large as the European houfe-rat, which are

people011 H°Uegh " *'/“*"*"* ttewhte

people. Here are very few mice ; yet I have feen

fome, particularly in Charlefton. I flaw two u 1 a

as whTteeasaf ’ ^ a ^ntleman’s houfe, which were
as white as fnow, and their eyes red. There are

yet a few beavers iru Eaft-Elorida and Georgia but

moft the north of Georgia &and in

l^iles °coaft° and* ^ ^ hundred

or cne lea coalt , and very fcw in the moft

3 northern

TRAVELS IN

278

northern parts of thefe regions ; which muft be
confidered as a inoft favourable circumftance, by
the people in countries where there is fo much
banking and draining of the land, they being the
moll deftrudtive creatures to dykes.

The roe buck I have already mentioned. The
bears are yet too numerous: they are a ftrong crea- i
ture, and prey on the fruits of the councry, and will
likewife devour young calves, fwine and fheep ; but
I never could learn a well attefted inftance of their
attacking mankind. They weigh from five hundred
to fix hundred weight when full grown and fat : their

flelh is greatly efleemed as food by the natives.

•

The wild cat, felis cauda truncata, (lynx) is
common enough ■, it is a fierce and bold little
animal, preying on young pigs, fawns, turkeys, &c.
They are not half the fizeof a common cur dog,
are generally of a greyifh colour, and fomewhat
tabbied ; their fides bordering on the belly are va-
ried with yellowifh brown fpots, and almoft black
waving ftreaks, and brindled. I have been credibly
informed that the wolves here are frequently feen
pied, black and white, and of other mixed colours.
They afiemble in companies in the night time,
howl and bark altogether, efpecially in cold winter
nights, which is teirifying to the wandering be-
wildered traveller.

The foxes of Carolina and Florida are of the
final! er red fpecies; they bark in the night round
ab out plantations, but do not bark twice in the
fame place ; they move precipitately, and in a few
minutes are heard on the oppofite fide of the plan-
tation, or at a great diftar.ce : it is faid that dogs
are terrified at the noife, and cannot be perfuaded

or

NORTH AMERICA.

279

or compelled to purfue them. They commit
depredations on young pigs, lambs, poultry,
&c.

The mole is not fo common here as in the
northern eftates.

The bats of Florida feem to be the fame fpe-
cies of thofe in Penfylvania and Virginia, and very
little different from the European.

Here are feveral fpecies of fquirrels, (fciurus)
peculiar to the lower countries, or maritime parts
of Carolina and the Floridas, and fome of them
are very beautiful creatures.

The great black fox fquirrel is above two feet
in length from the nofe to the end of the tail,
which for about two inches is milk white, as are
the ears and nofe. The red fox fquirrel is of the
fame fize and form, of a light reddifh brown upper
fide, and white under fide, the ears and tip end of
the tail white.

The grey fox fquirrel is rather larger than
either of the foregoing ; their belly white, as are
the ears, nofe, and tip of the tail. Thefe three
feem to be varieties of the fame Ipecies.

The common grey fquirrel is about half the fize
of the preceding.

The black fquirrel is about the fame fize, and all
over of a fnining jet black.

The little grey fquirrel is much lefs than either
of the preceding fpecies j it is of a brownilh grey
upper fide, and white belly.

travels in

The ground fquirrel, or little ftriped fquirrel of
Penfylvania and the northern regions, is never
feen here, and very rarely in the mountains north-
weft of thefe territories ; but the flying fquirrel,
(fciurus volans) is very common.

The rabbit (lepus minor, cauda abrupta, pupil-
lis atris) is pretty common, and no ways differing
from thofe of Penfylvania and the northern ftates.

Having mentioned moft of the animals in thefe
parts of America, which are moft remarkable or
ufeful, there remains, however, yet fome obferva-
tions on birds, which by fome may be thought not
impertinent.

There are but few that have fallen under my
obfervation, but have been mentioned by the zoo-
logifts, and moft of them very well figured in
Catefby’s, or Edwards’s works.

But thefe authors have done very little towards
elucidating the fubjedt of the migration of birds,
or accounting for the annual appearance and dif-
appearance, and vanifhing of thefe beautiful and
entertaining beings, who vifit us at certain ftated
feafons. Catefby has faid very little on this curious
fubjedt; but Edwards more, and perhaps all, or as
much as could be faid in truth, by the moft able and
ingenious, who had not the advantage and oppor-
tunity of ocular obfervation ; which can only be
acquired by travelling, and refiding a whole year
at leaft in the various climates from north to fouth,
fo the full extent of their peregrinations ; or mi-
nutely examining the tracts and obfervations of cu-
rious and induftrious travellers who have publifhed
th^ir memoirs on this fubjedf. There may perhaps
be fome perfons who conflder this enquiry not to

* 7 • * ' *

NORTH AMERICA.

281

be productive of any real benefit to mankind, and
pronounce fuch attention to natural hiftory merely
fpeculative, and only fit to amufe and entertain the
idle virtuofo ; however the ancients thought other-
wife : for with them, the knowledge of the paflage
of birds was the ftudy of their priefts and philofo-
phers, and was confidered a matter of real and in-
difpenfable ufe to the ftate, next to aftronomy ; as
we find their fyftem and pra&ice of agriculture was
.in a great degree regulated by the arrival and dif-
appearance of birds of paflage ; and perhaps a ca-
lendar under fuch a regulation at this time, might
be ufcful to the hufbandman and gardener.

But however attentive and obfervant the an-
cients were on this branch of fcience, they feem to
have been very ignorant or erroneous in their con-
jeftures concerning what became of birds, after
their difappearance, until their return again. In
the louthern and temperate climates fome imagin-
ed they went to the moon : in the northern regions
they fuppofed that they retired to caves and hollow
trees, for ffielter and fecurity, where they remained
in a dormant ftate during the cold feafons : and
even at this day, very celebrated men have aflerted
that fwallows (hirundo) at the approach of winter,
voluntarily plunge into lakes and rivers, defcend
to the bottom, and there creep into the mud and
flime, where they continue overwhelmed by ice in
a torpid ftate, until the returning fummer warms
them again into life ; when they rife, return to the
furface of the water, immediately take wing, and
again people the air. This notion, though the lateft,
feems the molt difficult to reconcile to reafon and
/common fenfe, refpefting a bird fo fwift of flight
that it can with eafe and pleafuie move through the

air

282

TRAVELS IN

air even fwifter than the winds, and in a few
hours time fhift twenty degrees from north to
fouth, even from frozen regions to climes where
froft is never feen, and where the air and plains
are replenifhed with flying infefts of infinite va-r
riety, its favourite and only food.

Penfylvania and Virginia appear to me to be
the climates in North- America, w,here the greateft
variety and abundance of thefe winged emigrants
choofe to celebrate their nuptials, and rear their
offspring, which they annually return with, to their
winter habitations, in the fouthern regions of N.
America ; and moft of thofe beautiful creatures,
which annually people and harmonife our forefts and
groves, in the fpring and fummer feafons, are birds
of paflage from the fouthward. The eagle, i. e.
falco leucocephalus, or bald eagle, falco maximus,
or great grey eagle, falco major cauda ferrugineo,
falco pullarius, falco columbarius, ftrix pythaulis,
ftrix acclamatus, ftrix aflio, tetrao tympanus, or
pheafant of Penfylvania, tetrao urogallus, or
mountain cock or grous of Penfylvania, tetrao
minor five coturnix, or partridge of Penfylvania,
picus, or woodpeckers of feveral fpecies, corvus
carnivorus, or raven, corvus frugivora, or crow,
corvus glandarius f. corvus criftatus, or blue jay,
alauda maxima, regulus atrofufcus minor, or marfh
wren, fitta, or nuthatch, meleagris, are perhaps
nearly all the land birds which continue the year
round in Penfylvania. I might add to thefe the
blue bird, motacilla fialis, mock bird, turdus poly-
glottos, and fometimes the robin redbreaft, turdus
migratorius, in extraordinary warm winters j and
although I do not pretend to aflert as a known
truth, yet it may be found on future obfervation

NORTH AMERICA,

283

that moft of thefe above mentioned are ftrangers;
or not really bred where they wintered ; but are
more northern families, or fojourners, bound fcu-
therly to more temperate habitations ; thus pufli-
ing each other foutherly, and pofiefling their va-
cated places, and then back again at the return of
fpring.

Very few tribes of birds build, or rear their
young, in the fouth or maritime parts of Virginia
and Carolina, Georgia and Florida ; yet all thefe
numerous tribes, particularly of the foft billed
kinds, which breed in Penfylvania, pafs in the
fpring feafon through thefe regions in a few weeks
time, making but very fbort ftages by the way :
and again, but few of them winter there, on their
return foutherly : and as I have never travelled,
the continent fouth of New Orleans, or the point
of Florida, where few or none of them are to be
feen in the winter, I am entirely ignorant how far
fouthward they continue their route, during their
abfence from Penfylvania; but perhaps none of
them pafs the tropic.

When in my relidence in Carolina and Florida,
I have feen vaft flights of the houfe fwallow (hirur-
do pelafgia) and bank martin (hirundo riparia) paf-
fing onward north toward Penfylvania, where they
breed in the fpring, about the middle of March,
and likewife in the autumn in September or Octo-
ber, and large flights on their return fouthward.
And it is obfervable that they always avail them-
felves of the advantage of high and favourable
winds, which likewife do all birds of paflao-e. The
pewit, or black cap flycatcher, of Catelby, is the
flrft bird of paflage which appears in the fpring in
Penfylvania, which is generally about the firft, or

middle

TRAVELS IN

284

midde of March ; and then wherever they appear,
we may plant peas and beans in the open grounds,
(vicia lativa) French beans (phafeolus) low rad-
difhes, (raphanus) lettuce, (ladtuca) onions, (ccpa)
paftinaca, daucus, and almoft every kind of ef-
culent garden feeds, without fear or danger from
frofts; for although we have fometimes frofts af-
ter their firft appearances for a night or two, yet not
fo fevere as to injure the young plants.

In the fpring of the year the fmall birds of paf-
fage appear very fuddenly in Pennfylvania, which
is not a little furprifing, and no lefs pleafing : at
once the woods, the groves, and meads, are filled
with their melody, as if they dropped down from
the fkies. The reafon or probable caufe is their
letting off with high and fair winds from the fouth-
ward ; for a ftrong l'outh and fouth-weft wind about
the beginning of April never fails bringing millions
of thefe welcome vifitors.

Being willing to contribute my mite towards
illuftrating the fubjedt of the peregrination of the
tribes of birds of N. America, I lhall lubjoin a
nomenclature of the birds of paftage, agreeable to
my obfervation, when on my travels from New
England to New-Orleans, on the Miftifiippi, and
point of Florida.

Land birds which are feen in Pennfylvania,
Maryland, Virginia, from S. Carolina, Georgia
and Florida, N. and the fea coaft Weftward, to the
Apalachian mountains, viz.

* These arrive in Pennfylvania in the fpring
feafon from the South, and after building nefts,
and rearing their young, return again Southerly in
the autumn.

j- These

NORTH AMERICA.

285

j- These arrive in Pennfylvania in the autumn,
from the North, where they continue during the
winter, and return again the fpring following, I
fuppofe to breed and rear their young ; and thefe
kinds continue their journies as far South as Caroli-
lina and Florida.

£ These arrive in the fpring in Carolina and
Florida from the South, breed and rear their young,
and return South again at the approach of win-
ter, but never reach,. Pennfylvania, or the Northern
States.

|1 These are natives of Carolina and Florida,
where they breed and continue the year round.

Thefe breed and continue the year round in
Pennfylvania.

Strix. The Owl.

t Strix ardticus, capite levi, corpore totoniveo;
the great white owl.

«[ Strix pythaules, capite aurito, corpore rufo ;
the great horned owl.

t Strix maximus, capite aurito, corpore niveo ;
the great horned white owl.

Strix acclamator, capite levi, corpore grifeo ;
the whooting owl.

t Strix peregrinator, capite aurito, corpore ver-
ficolore ; the fharp winged owl.

H Strix affio, capite aurito, corpore ferruoineo •
the little fcreech owl.

Vultur. The Vulture.

|| Vultur aura; the turkey-buzzard.

(I Vultur facra; the white tailed vulture.

|| V ultur atiatus; black vulture, or carrion crow,

Falco.

*86

TRAVELS IK

Falco. Eagle and Hawk.

Falco regal:: ; the gieat grey eagle.

F. lencoccphalus; the bald eagle.

* F. pilcatorius ; the fifhing eagle.

«j| F. Aquilinus ; cauda ferrug. great eagle hawk,
F. gallinarius ; the hen hawk.

F. pullarius; the chicken hawk.

* F. columbarius-; the pigeon hawk,
f F. niger ; the black hawk.

* F. ranivorusj the marfh hawk.

* F. fparverius; theleaft hawk or fparrow fpark,

a Milvus. Kite Hawk.

|| Falco furcatus; the forked tail hawk, or kite.
|| F. glaucus ; the fharp winged hawk, of a pale
fky-blue colour, the tip of the wings black.
|| F. fubceruleus ; the fharp winged hawk, of a
dark or dufky blue colour.

11 Pfittacus Carolinienfis; the parrot of Carolina,
or parrakeet.

Corvus. The Crow kind.

* Corvus carnivorus; the raven.

|| C. maritimus; the great fea- fide crow,or rook,
C. frugivorus ; the common crow.

C. criftatus, f. pica glandaria ; the blue jay.
C. Floridanus, pica glandaria minor ; the little
jay of Florida.

Gracula quifcula; the purple jackdaw of the
fea coalt.

a Kite hawks. Thefe are charaflerifed by having long fharp pointed
wings, being of fwift flight, failing without flapping their wings, lean light
bodies, and feeding out of their claws on the wing, as they gently fail round
and round.

Pica glundaria cerulea non criftata, the little jay of Baft Florida.

NORTH AMERICA. 2‘8 7

* Gracula purpurea; the lefTer purple jackdaw,

or crow blackbird.

* Cuculus Carolinienlis; the cuckoo of Carolina.

Picus. Woodpeckers,
jj Picus principalis ; - the greateft crefted wood-
pecker, having a white back.

* P. peilatus; the great red crefted black wood-

pecker.

* P. erythrocephalus ; red headed woodpecker.

* P. auratus ; the gold winged woodpecker.

P. Carolinus ; the red bellied woodpecker.

f P. pubefcens ; the leaft fpotted woodpecker.
i P. villofus ; the hairy, fpeckled and crefted
woodpecker.

^ P. varius ; yellow bellied woodpecker.

4 Sitta Europea ; grey black capped nuthatch,
f S. varia, ventre rubro; the black capped, red
bellied nuthatch.

f Certhia rufa ; little brown variegated creeper.

* C. pinus ; the pine creeper.

* C. pitta; blue and white ftriped or pied creeper.

* Alcedo alcyon ; the great crefted king-fiflier.

* Trochilus colubris; the humming bird.

* Lanius grifeus; the little grey butcher-bird of

Penfylvania.

* L. garrulus; the little black capped or butcher

bird of Florida.

* L. tyrannus ; the king bird.

* Mufcicapa nunciola ; the pewit, or black cap

flycatcher.

* M. criftata ; the great crefted yellow bellied

flycatcher.

* M. rapax; the lefler pewit, or brown and

greenilh flycatcher.

* M. fubviridis; the little olive cold. flycatcher,

1 * Mufcicapa

288

TRAVELS in

* Mufcicapa cantatrix ; the little domeftic fly-

catcher or green wren.

* M. fylvicola ; the little red eyed flycatcher.

* Columba Carolinienfis, the turtle dove.

|| C. paflerina ; the dove.

|| C. migratoria; the pigeon of paflage or wild
pigeon.

* Alauda magna; the great meadow lark.

t A campeftris ; gutture flavo, the fky iark.
t A. migratoria ; corpore toto ferrugineo, the
little brown lark.

Turdus migratorius; the fieldfare, or robin
redbreaft.

* T. rufus ; the great, or fox coloured thruflh.

* T. polyglottos ; the mocking bird.

* T. melodes ; the wood thrufli.

* T. minimus, vertice auro; the leaft golden

crown thrufli.

* Oriolus Baltimore; Baltimore bird or hang neft.

* O. fpurius ; the goldfinch or idlerus minor.

* Merula flammula; fand-hill redbird of Carolina.

* M. Marilandica; the fummer red bird.

* Garrulis auftralis ; the yellow breafted chat.

* Lucar lividus, apice nigra ; the cat bird-, or

chicken bird.

Ampelis garrulus; crown bird, or cedar bird.

Granivorous Tribes.

Meleagris Americanus ; the wild turkey.

4 Tetrao lagopus ; the mountain cock, or grous.-
4 T. tympanus ; the pheafant of Penfylvania.

T. minor, f. coturnix ; the quail or partridge ..
Loxia cardinalis ; the red bird, or Virginia
nightingale.

f L. roftro forficato ; the crofs beak.

* L. cgfuLea ; the blue crofs beak.

NORTH AMERICA.

I

* Fmberiza oryzivora ; (i) the rice bird.* .

•j- E. livida; the blue or flate coloured rice bird.

* E. varia ; (2) the pied rice bird.

J Linaria ciris •, the painted finch, or nonpareil,

* L. cyanea ; the blue linnet.

Carduelis Americanus, the goldfinch.

. j- C. minus ; the leffer goldfinch.

•j- C. pufilus ; the leaft finch.

* Fringilla erythrophthalma ; the towhe bird.

-j- F. purpurea the purple finch.

-f- F. cannabina ; the hemp bird.

-j- F. rufa ; the red, or fox-coloured ground or
hedge fparrow.

f F. fufca; the large brown white throat fparrow.

* Pafler domefticus ; the little houfe fparrow

or chipping bird.

* P. paluftris ; the reed fparrow.

* P. agreftis ; the little field fparrow.

■f P. nivalis ; the fnow bird.

* Calandra pratenfis; the May bird.

* Sturnus prasdatorius 3 the red winged ftarling,

or corn thief.

* S. ftercorarius 5 the cowpen bird.

* Motacilla fialis 3 the blue bird. (Rubicula

Americana, Cat.)

* M. fluviatilis 3 the water wagtail.

* M. domeftica (regulus rufus); the houfe wren.
* M. paluftris j (reg. minor) the marfhwren,

* M. Caroliniana 3 (reg. magnus) the great

wren of Carolina, the body of a dark brown,
the throat and breaft of a pale clay colour.

* Regulus grifeus 3 the little bluifh grey wren.

■f R. criftatus 3 the golden crown wren.

i ’

* (1, 2) Are generally fuppofed to be male and female of the fame fpeciea
(a) or the pied rice bird the male, and (i) or the yellow, the female.

u t R.

*=m

29O TRAVELS- IN

f R. criftatus alter vertice rubini coloris ; the
ruby crown wren. (G. Edwards.)

* R. peregrinus, gutture flavo;the olive coloured

yellow throated wren.

* Ruticilla Americana ; the redftart.

* Lufcinia, f.philomela Americana ; the yellow

hooded titmoufe.

* Parus criftatus ; bluifh grey crefted titmoufe.
P. Europaeus, the black cap titmoufe.

P. luteus ; the fummer yellow bird.

* P. cedrus uropygio flavo; the yellow rump.

* P. variusj various coloured little finch creeper.

* P. peregrinus; little chocolate bread titmoufe.

* P. aureus vertice rubro ; the yellow red pole.

* P. aureo vertice ; the golden crown flycatcher.

* P. viridis gutture nigro ; the green black

throated flycatcher.

* P. alis aureis ; the golden winged flycatcher.

* P. aureus alis ceruleis ; the blue winged yellow

bird.

* P. grifeus gutture luteo ; the yellow throated

creeper.

* Hirundo pelafgia cauda aculeata ; the houfe

l’wallow.

* H. purpurea; the great purple martin.

* H. riparia vertice purpurea; the bank martin.

* H. cerdo ; the chimney iwallow.

£ Caprimulgus lucifugus; the great bat, or
chuck wills widow.

* C. Americanus; nighthawk, or whip poor will.

Amphibious3 or Aquatic Birds,

Or fuch as obtain their food, and refide, in and
near the water.

Grus. The Crane.

(1 Grus clamator, vertice papillofo, corpore ni-

NORTH AMERICA. 2^1

veo remigibus nigris ; the great whooping
crane.

X G. pratenfis ; corpore cinereo, vertice papil-
loi'o ; the great favanna crane.

Ardea. The Heron.

Ardea Herodias; the great bluifh grey crefted
heron.

* A. immaculata; the great white river heron.

* A. alba minor ; the little white heron.

J A. purpurea criftata ; the little crefted purple
or blue heron.

* A. varia criftata; the grey white crefted heron.
X A. maculata criftata ; the fpeckled crefte

heron, or crabcatcher.

* A. mugitans; the rnarlh bittern, or Indian hen.

* A. clamator, corpore fubcseruleo ; the quaw

bird, or frogcatcher.

j A. fubfufea ftillata; the little brownilli Ipotted
bitern.

X A. violacea; the crefted blue bittern, (called
poor Job.)

A. virifeens; the green bittern or poke.

* A. virifeens minor, the leffer green bittern.

* A. parva; theleaft brown and ftriped bittern.

* Platalea ajaja; the fpoonbill, feen as far North

as Alatamaha river in Georgia.

Tantalus. The wood Pelican,
t Tantalus loculator ; the wood pelican,
t T. albus ; the white Spanilh curlew.

X T. fufeus; the dulky and white Spanilh curlew.

|| T. pi&us ; (Ephoufkyka Indian) the crying
bird, beautifully fpeckled.

|| T. Ichthyophagus; the gannet ; perhaps little
different from the Ibis.

|| IN umenius alba varia ; the white godwit.

H N. peftore rufoj the great red breafted godwit

U> IN,

TRAVELS JN

If N. Americana; the greater godwit.

If N. fluvialis ; the redfhank or pool fnipe.

If N. magnus rufus; the great fea coaft curlew.

* N. minor campeftris ; the letter field curlew,
f N. cinereus ; the feafide letter curlew.

* Scolopax Americana rufa; great red woodcock,

* S. minor arvenfis; the meadow fnipe.

* Tringa rufa ; the red cootfooted tringa.

T. cinerea, gutture albo; the white throated
cootfooted tringa.

T. vertice nigro; black cap cootfooted tringa.
T. maculata ; the fpotted tringa.

^ T grifea; the little pond fnipe.

4 T. fufca ; the little brown or afh coloured
pool fnipe.

f T. parva ; the little tringa of the fea Ihore,
called land bird.

* Morinella Americana ; the turnftone or dotrel.
f Cygnus ferus ; the wild fwan.

f Anfer Canadenfis ; the Canadian goofe.

-j- A. alis casrulis ; the blue winged goofe.
f A. fufcus maculatus ; the laughing goofe.

•j- A. branta, corpore albo, remigibus nigris ;
the white brant goofe.

j- A. branta grifea maculata ; the great parti-
coloured brant, or grey goofe.

-j- Anas fera torquafa major, caput et collum
viridi fplendentia, dorfum grifeo fufcum,
pedtore rufefcente,fpeculum violaceumj the
great wild duck, called duck and mallard,
-j- A. nigra maxima ; the great black duck.

f A. bucephala; the bull- neck and bufFaloe head.

-j- A. fubcterulea ; the blue bill.

-j- A. leucocephala ; the black white faced duck,
-j- A. caudacuta; the fprig tail duck..

+ A. rullica; the little brown and white duck.

' t A.

NORTH AMERICA. 293

t A. principalis, maculata; the various coloured
duck, his neck and breaft as though orna-
mented with chains of beads,
f A. minor pitta ; the little black and white
duck called butterback.

Querquedulae Teal.

* Anas fponfa j the fummer duck.

+ A. difcors ; the blue winged teak
t A. migratoria j the leaf!: green winged teal.

* A. fiftulofa ; whittling duck.

f Mergusmajorpettore rufo; great filking duck,
t M. cucullatus ; the round crefted duck.

* Colymbus migratorius ■, the eel crow.

1) C. Floridanus ; the great black cormorant of
^ Florida, having a red beak.

If C- colubrinus, cauda elongata; the fnake bird
of Florida.

f C. mu ficus ; the great black and white pied
diver or loon.

1" Colymbus artticus; the great lpeckled diver.
C. auritus et cornutus; the little eared brown
dobchick.

I m min°r fufcuSj little crefted brown dobchick.
t Phaasthon aethereus ; the tropic bird.

If Larus albus the great white gull.

If L. grifeus j the great grey gull,
i aldus minor ; the little white river gull.

I) Onocrotalus Americanus ; the American fea
pelican.

}| Petrella pintada ; the pintada bird.

5 Rynch°Ps nigerj the fhearwater or razor bill.

+ Pe^nuS aqmluSi the frigate, or man of war

J P . fula ; the booby,
t Sterna ftolida ; the fea fwallow, or noddy.

3 Charadrus.

*9 4

TRAVELS IN

Charadrus. The Plover kind.

* Charadrus vociferus the kildea or chattering

plover.

* C. maculatus ; the great field fpotted plover.

* C. minor j the little feafide ring necked plover.

* Hsematopus oftrealegus j the will willet or

oyfter catcher.

|| Fulica Floridana ; the great blue or flate co-
loured coot of Florida.

* Rallus Virginianus; the foree bird or little

brown rail, alfo called widgeon in Pennfyl.

£ R. aquadcus minor j the little dark blue water
rail.

* R. rufus Americanus ; the greater brown rail.

|| R. major fubcasruleus ; the blue or flate co-
loured water rail of Florida.

* Phoenicopterus ruber ; the flamingo, feen

about the point of Florida, rarely as far N.
as St. Auguftine.

I am convinced there are yet feveral kinds of
Jand birds, and a great number of aquatic fowl, that
have not come under my particular notice ; there-
fore fhall leave them to the inveftigation of future
travelling naturalifts of greater ability and in-
duftry.

There yet remain fome obfervations on the paf-
fage, and breeding of birds, &c. which may be
proper to notice in this place.

I fhall firft mention the rice bird, (emberiza
oryzivora.) It is the commonly received opinion
that they are male and female of the fame Ipecies,
i. e. the black pied rice bird the male, and a yel-
lowifli clay coloured one the female: the laft men-
tioned appearing only in the autumn, when the

oryza

NORTH AMERICA.

19S

oryza zizania are about ripening; yet in my opinion
there are fome ftrong circumftances which feem to
operate againft fuch a conjecture, though generally
believed.

In the fpring, about the middle of May, the
black pied rice bird (which is called the male) ap-
pears in Pennfylvania ; at that time the great yel-
low ephemera, called May fly, and a fpecies of
locufla appear in incredible multitudes, the favorite
delicious food of thefe birds, when they are fpright-
ly, vociferous, and pleafingly tuneful.

When I was at St. Augufline, in E. Florida, in
the beginning of April, the fame fpecies of grafs-
hoppers were in multitudes on the fields and com-
mons about the town ; when great flights of thefe
male rice birds fuddenly arrived from the South,
which by feeding on thefe infefts became extremely
fat and delicious : they continued here two or three
weeks, until their food became fcarce, w'hen they
difappeared, I fuppofe purfuingtheirjourney North
after the locufla and ephemera ; there were a few
of the yellow kind, or true rice bird, to be feen
amongfl them. Now thefe pied rice birds feem
to obferve the fame order and time in their migra-
tions Northerly, with the other fpring birds of paf-
fage, and are undoubtedly on their way to their
breeding place ; but then there are no females with
them, at leafl not one to ten thoufand of the male
colour, which cannot be fuppofed to be a fufficient
number to pair and breed by. Being in Charleflon
in the month of June, I obferved at a gentleman’s
door, a cage full of rice birds, that is of the yellow
or female colour, who were very merry and vo-
ciferous, having the fame variable mufic with the

U 4 pied

travels in

296

pied or male kind, which I thought extraordinary;
and obferving it to the gentleman, he allured me
that they were all of the male kind, taken the pre-
ceding fpring, but had changed their colour, and
would be next fpring of the colour of the pied,
thus changing colour with the fealbns of the year.
If this is really the cafe, it appears they are both of
the fame fpecies intermixed, fpring and fall. In the
fpring they are gay, vociferous and tuneful birds.

Ampelis garrulus ; crown bird or cedar bird-
Thefe birds'feed cn various forts of fucculent fruit
and berries, allbciating in little flocks or flights,
and are to be feen in all the regions from Canada
to New Orleans on the Mifliflippi, and how much
far ther South and South-Weft I know not. They
obferve no fixed time of appearance in Pennfyl-
vania,but are to be feen in a few days every month
of the year ; fo that it is difficult to determine at
what leafon they breed, or where. The longeft
peiiodof their appearance in Pennfylvania is in the
fpring and firft of June, at the time the early cher-
ries are ripe, when they are numerous; and in the
autumn when the Cedar berries are ripe (Juniperus
Americana ; they arrive in large flights, and, with
the robins (turdus migratorius) and yellow rump
(parus ced rus) foon ftrip thofe trees of their berries,
after which they difappear again; but in November
and December they appear in fmaller flights, feed-
ing on the fruit of the Perfimon (Dyofpyros Vir-
giniana ;) and fome are feen till March, fubfifting
upon Smilax berries, Privet (Liguftrum vulgare)
and other permanent fruits; after which they dif-
appear until May and June. I have been informed
by fome people in Pennfylvania, that they have
found their nefts at thefe feafons in Pennfylvania.

Lanark

NORTH AMERICA.

297

Linaria cirls (emberiza ciris Linn.) or painted
finch, or nonpareil of Catelby, is not feen North
of Cape Fear, in North Carolina, and feldom ten
miles from the fea coafl, or perhaps twenty or
thirty miles, near the banks of great rivers, in
fragrant groves of the Orange (Citrus aurantium)
Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbohia, Cafline, Sider-
oxylon, &c.

. linaria cyanea (tanagra Linn.) the blue linnet,
js fuppofed by fome to be the nonpareil, in an early
ftage of life, not being yet arrived to his brilliancy
and variety of colours ; but this is certainly a mif-
take, for the blue linnet is longer and ofa tenderer
configuration, and their notes more variable, vehe-
ment and fonorous. And they inhabit the continent
and fea coafl iflands from Mexico to Nova Scotia,
from the fea coafl, Weft beyond the Apalachean
and Cherokee mountains. The fongs of the non-
pareil are remarkably low, foft and warbling, ex-
ceedingly tender and foothino-

O

Catefby, in his hiftory of Carolina, fpeaking of
the cat-bird (mufcicapa vertice nigro)fays, “They
nave big one note, which refembles the mewino-
E I'' j a miftake very injurious to the fame of
iat nd; he, in reality, being one of our mod
eminent fongfters, little inferior to the philomela
01 mock-bird ; and, in fome remarkable inftances,
peinaps, exceeds them both, in particular as a buf-
oon or mimick. He endeavours to imitate every
bird and animal, and in many attempts does not ill
ucceed, even in rehearfing the fbngs, which he at-
tentively Mens to, from the fhepherdefs and rural
fwain ; and will endeavour and fucceed to admira-

SS !n rePeatlnS the melodious and variable airs
011 inftrumental mufic, and this in his wild flate

of

TRAVELS IN

29$

of nature. They are a kind of domeftic bird
during their fpring and fummer refidence in Penfvl-
vania, building their nefls in gardens and fheltering
themfelves in groves near the houfes. They caufe
great trouble and vexation to hens that have broods
of chickens, by imitating their diftrefling criejs, in
which they feem to enjoy much delight, and caufe
fome amufement to perfons who are diverted at
fuch incidents. They are the firft bird heard fing- |
ing in the morning, even before break of day.

They feem to be a tribe of birds feparated by
nature from the motacillas, with which the zoologifts i
have clalled them, and appear allied to a tribe pe- 1
culiar to America, to which Edwards has given the
name of manakin. In their nature they feem to
take place between the thrufh (turdus) and mota- 1
cilia, their beak being longer, ftronger, and ftraighter
than the mofacilla, and formed for eating fruit,
which is their chief food; yet they will feed on rep-
tile infeefts, but never attempt to take their prey on
the wing.

Catefby is chargeable with the like miftake with
refpedt to the little thrufh (t. minor) and the fox
coloured thrufh (t. rufus) both eminent fingers, and
the latter little inferior to the mock-bird. The 4
former for his fhrill, fonorous and elevated ftrains
in the high, fliady forefts ; and the latter for va-
riety, foftnefs and conflant refponfes in the hedges
and groves near houfes.

But yet Catefby has fome right of claim to our
excufe and juftification, for his detraction of the
fame due to thefe eminent muficians of the groves
and forefts, when we confider that he refided and
jnade his collections and obfervations, in the regi- .

NORTH AMERICA.

-99

»ns which are the winter retreats and refidence of
thefe birds, where they rarely fing; as it is obferva-
ble and moft true, that it is only at the time of incu-
bation, that birds fing in their wild ftate of nature.
The cat-bird, great and lefs thrufh and fieldfare,
feldom or never build in Carolina beneath the moun-
tains, except the great or fox coloured thrufh in a
few inftances ; but all thefe breed in Penfylvania.

The parakeets (pfitacus Carolinienfis) never
reach fo far North as Pennfylvania, which to me is
unaccountable, confidering they are a bird of fuch
Angularly rapid flight, that they could eafily perform
the journey in ten or twelve hours from North Caro-
lina, where they are very numerous, and we abound
with all the fruits which they delight in.

I was allured in Carolina, that thefe birds, for a
month or two in the coldeft winter weather, houfe
themfelves in hollow Cyprefs trees, clinging fait to
each other like bees in a hive, where they continue
in a torpid ftate until the warmth of the returning
fpring reanimates them, when they iffue forth from
their late dark, cold winter cloifters. But I lived
feveral years in North Carolina and never was wit-
ijefs to an inftance of it ; yet I do not at all doubt
but there have been inftances of belated flocks thus
furprifed by fudden fevere cold, and forced into fuch
fhelter, and the extraordinary feverity and perfe-
veiance of the leafon might have benumbed them
into a torpid, lleepy ftate ; but that they all wil-
lingly fhould yield to fo difagreeable and hazard-
ous a filiation does not feem reafonable or natural,
yrhen we conlidei that they are a bird of the fwifteft
flight and impatient of levere cold. They are ea-
fily tamed, when they become docile and familiar,
but never learn to imitate the human language.

Bo$h

3oo

TRAVELS IN

Both fpeciesof the Baltimore bird (oriolus, Linn,
idterus, Cat.) are fpring birds of pafiage and breed
in Pennfylvania; they have loud and mufical notes.

The yellow breafud chat (oenanthe, Cat. mota-
cilla trochilus, Linn.) :s in many inftances a very
fmgular bird; the variablenefs and mimickry of his
notes or fpeech, imitating various creatures; and
a furprifing faculty of uttering a coarfe, hollow
founding noife in their throats or crops, which at
times feems to be at a g^eat diftance, though ut-
tered by a bird very near, and vice verfa. They
arrive in Pennfylvania from the South, late in the
month of May, breed and return again early in au-
tumn.

It is a matter of enquiry, what fhould have indu-
ced the zoologifts to clafs this bird with the motacil-
lae, when they difcover no one charadteriftic to in-
duce fuch an alliance ; this bird having a remark-
able thick, ftrong bill, more like the frugivorous
tribes : and in my opinion they are guilty of the
like overfight in clafling the fummer red-bird with,
the mufcicapa, this bird having a thick, ftrong bill,
approaching nearer the ftarling (fturnus.)

Thefe hiftorical obfervations being noted, we will
again relume the fubjedt of our journey.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

301

CHAP. XI.

After the predatory band of Siminoles, under
the conduft of the Long Warrior, had decamped,
Mn M Latche invited me with him on a vifit to an
Indian town, about twelve miles diflance from the
tradmg-houfe, to regale ourfelves at a feaft of
Water Melons and Oranges, the Indians havino-
rought a canoe load of them to the trading-houfe

JmderJ P whi.ch theY dil~PO&d of to the

traders. 1 his was a circumftance pretty extraor

dinary to me it being late in September, a feafon

of the year when the Citruels are ripe and gone in

Georgia and Carolina ; but here the weather vet

continued hot and fultiy, and confequently this

eftimadon 3ratlng ** ^ ^ ^ reliP> ™d

After break failing, having each of us a Siminole
horfe completely equipped, we fat off: the ride
was agreeable and varioufly entertaining W
Kept no road or pathway conftantly, but as Indian
hunting tracks by chance fuited our courfe, ridine
through high open, pme forefts, green lawns and
owery favannas in youthful verdure and gaity
having been lately burnt, but now overrun wl^
^reen enamelled carpet, chequered with hommocks
of trees of dark green foliage, interfered widHer
pentine rivulets, their banks adorned with ihrub

benes of various tribes, as Andromeda fermofiffiSa

And. nitida. And. vindis. And. calyculata Ant
axillaris, Kalmia fpuria, Annona alba,' &c About
no» w= arrived at the town, the fame foie 4h“

1 I pair-

TRAVELS I fi

h ft >

O0"

1 palled by on my afcent of the river, on die banks

of the little lake below Charlotia.

%

We were received and entertained friendlily by
the Indians, the chief of the village conducing us
to a grand, airy pavilion in the center of the vil-
lage. It was four-fquare ; a range of pillars of polls
on each fide Supporting a canopy compofed of
Palmetto leaves, woven or thatched together, which
fhaded a level platform in the centre, that was af-
cended to from each fide by two Heps or flights,
each about twelve inches high, and feven or eight
feet in breadth, all covered with carpets or mats,
curioufly woven of fplit canes dyed of various co-
lours. Here being feated or reclining ourfelves,
after fmoaking tobacco, balkets of the choicelt
fruits were brought and fet before us.

The fields furrounding the towns and groves were
plentifully llored with Corn, Citruels, Pumkins,
Squalhes, Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches, Figs,
Oranges, &c.

Towards evening we took our leave, and arrived
at the ftores before night, having in the courfe of
the day collected a variety of curious fpecimens of
vegetables, feeds and roots.

The company being bufily employed in forming
their packs of leather and loading the velfel, and I
being eager to augment my collections during my
fiay here, I crofied the river witl\,a gang of our
people, who were tranfporting a party of horfe3
to range in the meadows and plains on the fide oppo-
fite to the tiading-houfe : we carried them over ill
a large flat or lcow. The river was here above a
mile wide, but divided into a number of ftreams by

numerous

NORTH AMERICA.

3°3

numerous iflands, which occafioned tlie voyage to
be very troublefome, as molt of the horfes were
lately taken wild out of their ranges, and many of
them young and untutored. Being under the necef-
fity of palling near the points of the iflands, they
grew reftlefs and impatient to land, and it was with
great difficulty we kept them on board ; and at laft,
when within a quarter of a mile of the oppofite
ffiore, paffing between two iflands, the horfes be-
came ungovernable, and moft of them plunged into
the river and forced over board one of our people.
I being a pretty good fwimmer, in the midft of the
buftle, and to avoid being beat over and perhaps
wounded, leapt out and caught hold of the dock
of one of the horfes. We all landed fafe on one of
the iflands, about one hundred and fifty yards dis-
tance, and the flat followed us. After a deal of
trouble and lofs of time, we got the horfes again
into the fcow, where Securing them by withs and
vines, we again fat off, and Soon landed Safe on the
main, at a high bluff or bank of the river, where,
after turning the horfes to pafture, and refting our-
lelves, we fat off on a vifit to a plantation on the
river, fix or eight miles diftance. On the way thither
we discovered a bee tree, which we cut down, and
regaled ourfelves on the delicious honey ; leaving
one of our companions to proteft the remainder
until our return with a tub, to colled: it and carry it
with us ; and in the evening we all returned lafe
with our fweet booty to the trading-houfe.

The veffel being loaded and ready to depart I
got all my colle&ions on board. My trully and
fortunate bark I preiented to the old interpreter,
job Wtggens, often my travelling companion,

friend

TRAVELS IN

3^4

friend and benefaCtor ; and taking an affectionate
and final leave of the worthy C. MfLatche and the
whole trading company, we fet fail in a neat little
fchooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the laft of
September. We had a pleafant and profperous
voyage down die grand river St. Juan’s, frequently
vifiting the plantations on the banks of the river,
efpecially at fuch times as oppofed by contrary
winds ; and according to promife did not negleCt
calling on the generous and friendly Mr. Marfhall
who received me fo politely, and treated me with
luch unparalleled friendfhip and hofpitality, when
afcending the river alone laft fpring.

We never once went out to fea during the
voyage ; for when we had defcended die river be-
low the Cow-ford, we entered the found by a chan-
nel between Fort George ifland and the main,
through which we pafifed, and continued failing be-
tween the fea coafl iflands and the main to Frede-
rica on St. Simon’s.

On my arrival at Frederica, I was again, asufual,
friendlily received and accommodated by the excel-
lent John Spalding, Efq; and here learning that the
honourable Henry Lawrens, Efq. had a large fhip
loading at Sunburyfor Liverpool, I determined to
embrace fo favourable an offer for conveying my
collections to Europe ; and hearing at the fame time
that Mr. Lawrens was daily expeCted in a veffel of
his own, at his plantations on Broton Ifland and
New Hope, in order to take a loading of rice for
the cargo of the fihip at Sunbury, I tranlported my
collections to Broton ; where, meeting witli Mr.
Lawrens, he generoufly permitted me to put my
things on board his veflel, and gave me room with
0 himfelf

NORTH AMERICA.

305

himfelfinthe cabin; and die merchant in Liverpool,
to whom the fhip was configned, being his friend
and correfpondent, and a friend of Dr. Fothergill’s,
Mr. Lawrens propofed to recommend my collec-
tions and letters to his care.

Thefe favourable circumftances thus co-operating,
after bidding adieu to my friends and liberal patrons
in thefe parts, I embarked on board this veflel, and
after a fhort and pleafant paftage through the found,
arrived at Sunbury, from whence, after fhipping my
collections, I fat fail again for Charlefton, South
Carolina ; where being arrived, I fpent the feafon
in fhort excurfions until next fpring ; and during
this time of my recefs I had leifure to plan my fu-
ture travels, agreeably to Dr. Fothergill’s inftruc-
tions, and the council and advice of Dr. Chalmers
of Charlefton, with other gentlemen of that city,
eminent for the promotion of fcience and encoura-
ging merit and induftry.

It was agreed that my future rout fhould be di-
rected Weft and South-Weft, into the Cherokee
country and the regions of the Mulcogulges or
Creeks.

X

CHAP,

JOURNAL

OF THE

TRAVELS

CONTINUED.

PART II.

CHAP. I.

•A P R I L lid, 1776, I fat off from Charlfton
for the Cherokee nation, and after riding this day
about twenty-five miles, arrived in the evening at
Jackfonlburg, a village on Ponpon river. The next
day’s journey was about the fame diltance, to a
public houfe or inn on the road.

The next day, early in the morning, I fat off
again, and about noon Hopped at a public houfe to
dine. After the meridian heats were abated, pro-
ceeding on till evening, I obtained good quarters at
a private houfe, having rode this day about thirty
miles. At this plantation I obferved a large orchard
of the European Mulberry tree (Morus alba) fome
of which were grafted on ftocks of the native Mul •
berry (Morus rubra) ; thefe trees were cultivated
for the purpofe of feeding filk-worms (phalaena
bombyx). Having breakfafted, I fat forward again.

I foon

NORTH AMERICA.

3°7

I loon entered a high foreft, continuing the fpace
of fifteen miles to the Three Sifters, a public ferry
on Savanna river : the country generally very
level ; the foil a dark, loofe, fertile mould, on a
itratum of cinereous-coloured tenacious clay ; the
ground (haded with its native forefts, confifting of
the great Black Oak, Quercus tin&oria, rubra,
phellos, prinos, hemifpherica, J uglans
nigra, J. ruftica, J. exaltata. Magnolia grandiflora,
Fraxinus excelfior, Acer rubrum, Liriodendron
tulipifera, Populus heterophylla, Morus rubra,
Nyfia fylvatica, Platanus occidentalis, Tilia, Ulmus
campeftris, U. fubifer, Laurus faflafras, L. Borbo-
nia, Ilex aquifolium, Fagus fylvatica, Cornus Flo-
rida, Halefia, TEfculus pavia, Sambucus, Callicar-
pa, and Stewartia malachodendron, with a variety
of other trees and fhrubs. This ancient fublime
foreft, frequently interfered with extenfive ave-
nues, villas and green lawns, opening to extenfive
favannas and far diftant Rice plantations, agreeably
employs the imagination, and captivates the fenfes
by fcenes of magnificence and grandeur.

The gay mock- bird, vocal and joyous, mounts
aloft on filvered wings, rolls over and over, then
gently defcends, and prefides in the choir of the
tuneful tribes.

Having dined at the ferry, I crofted the river
into Georgia : on landing and afcending the bank,
which has here a North profpeft, I obferved the
Dirca paluftris, growing fix or feven feet high. I
rode about twelve miles further through Pine Fo-
refts and favannas. . In the evening I took up my
quarters at a delightful habitation, though not a
common tavern. Having ordered my horfe a lia-
ble and provender, and refrefhed my fpirits with a.

X 2 draught

travels in

308

draught of cooling liquor, I betook myfelf to con-
templation in the groves and lawns. Directing my
fteps towards the river, I obferved in a high Pine
foreft on the border of a l'avanna, a great number
of cattle herded together, and on my nearer ap-
proach difcovered it to be a cow pen ; on my com-
ing up I was kindly faluted by my hoft and his
wife, who 1 found were fuperintending a number
of Haves, women, boys and girls, that were milk-
ing the cows. Here were about forty milch cows
and as many young calves ; for in thefe Southern
countries the calves run with the cows a whole
year, the people milking them at the fame time.
The pen, including two or three acres of ground*
more or lefs, according to the flock, adjoining a
rivulet or run of water, is enclofed by a fence : in
this enclofure the calves are kept while the cows
are out at range : a fmall part of this pen is par-
titioned off to receive the cows, when they come
up at evening : here are feveral flakes drove into
the ground, and there is a gate in the partition
fence for a communication between the two pens.
When the milkmaid has taken her fhare of milk,
fhe loofes the calf, who flrips the cow, which is next
morning turned out again to range.

I found thefe people, contrary to what a travel-
ler might, perhaps, reafonably expeCt, from their
occupation and remote fituation from the capital or
any commercial town, to be civil and courteous;
and though educated as it were in the woods, no
flrangers to fenfibility, and thofe moral virtues
which grace and ornament the mofl approved and
admired characters in civil fociety.

After the veffels were filled with milk, the dai-
ly and liberal fupply of the friendly kine; and the

good

NORTH AMERICA.

309

good wife, with her maids and fervants, were re-
turning with it to the dairy ; the gentleman was at
leifure to attend to my inquiries and obfervations,
which he did with complaifance, and apparent plea-
fure. On my obferving to him that his Hock of
horned cattle muft be very confiderable to afford
fo many milch cows at one time, he anfwered, that
he had about fifteen hundred head: “ my flock is
but young, having lately removed from fome dil-
tance to this place ; I found it convenient to part
with mod of my old flock and begin here anew ;
Heaven is pleafed to blefs my endeavours and in-
duflry with fuccefs even beyond my own expecta-
tions.” Yet continuing my interrogatories on this
fubjedt : your flock I apprehend mufl be very pro-
fitable, being fo convenient to the capital and fea
port, in affording a vafl quantity of beef, butter and
cheefe, for the market, and mufl thereby contribute
greatly towards your emolument : “ yes, I find my
Hock of cattle very profitable, and I conflanly con-
tribute towards fupplying the markets with beef;
but as to the articles of butter and cheefe, I make
no more than what is expended in my own houf-
hold, and I have a confiderable family of black
people, who, though they are Haves, muH be fed,
and cared for : thofe I have, were either chofen for
their good qualities, or born in the family, and J
find from long experience and obfervation, that the
better they are fed, clothed and treated, the more
fervice and profit we may expedt to derive from
their labour : in fhort, I find my flock produces no
more milk, or any aiticlc of food or nourjfhment,
than what is expended to the befl advantage a-
mongfl my family and flaves.”

He added, come along with me towards the ri-
ver bank, where I have fome men at workfquanng

X 3 Pine

3io

TRAVELS IK

Pine and Cyprefs timber for the Weft-India market;

I will fhow you their days work, when you will iea-
dily grant that I have reafon to acknowledge my-
felf fufficiently gratified for the little attention be-
llowed towards them. At yonder little new habi-
tation near the bluff on the banks of the river, I
have fettled my elded fon ; it is but a few days fince
he was married to a deferving young woman.

Having at length arrived near the high banks of
the majeftic Savanna, we flood at the timber land-
ing : almofl every objedt in our progrefs contri-
buted to demonflrate this good man’s fyflem of
economy to be not only practicable but eligible ; •
and the Haves appeared on all fides as a crowd of
witneffes to juftify his indullry, humanity and libe-
ral fpirit.

The Haves comparatively of a gigantic flature,
fat and mufcular, were mounted on the mafiive
timber logs; the regular heavy flrokes of their
gleaming axes re-echoed in the deep forefls ; at the
fame time, contented and joyful, the footy fons of
Afric forgetting their bondage, in chorus fung the
virtues and beneficence of their mailer in fongs of
their own compofition.

The log or timber landing is a capacious open
area, the lofty pines* having been felled and clear-
ed away 'for a confiderable diftance round about,
near an almoll perpendicular bluff or fteep bank
of the river, rifing up immediately from the water
to the height of fixty or feventy feet. The logs
being dragged by timber wheels to this yard, and

* Plnus poluftrls, Linn, the long leaved Pitch Pine, or yellow Pine.

landed

NORTH AMERICA.

311

landed as near the brink of this high bank as pof-
fible with fafety, and laid by the fide of each other,
are rolled off and precipitated down the bank into
the river, where being formed into rafts, they are
conducted by Haves down to Savanna, about fifty
miles below this place.

Having contemplated thefe fcenes of art and in-
duftry, my venerable holt, in company with his fon,
conducted me to the neat habitation, which is fitu-
ated in a fpacious airy foreft, a little diftance from
the river bank, commanding a comprehenfive and
varied profpedt ; an extenfive reach of the river in
front; on the right hand a fpacious lawn or favan-
na ; on the left the timber yard ; the vaft fertile
low lands and forefts on the river upwards; and the
plantations adjoining. A cool evening arrived after
a lultry day. As we approach the door, conducted
by the young man, his lovely bride arrayed in na-
tive innocence and becoming modefty, with an air
and fmile of grace and benignity, meets and falutes
us ! what a Venus ! what an Adonis ! faid I in filent
tranfport ; every action and feature feem to re-
veal the celeftial endowments of the mind : though
a native fprightlinefs and fenfibility appear, yet
virtue and difcretion diredt and rule. The drefs of
this beauteous fylvan queen was plain but clean,
neat and elegant, all of cotton, and of her own
fpinning and weaving.

Next morning early I fat forward profecuting
my tour. I purfued the high road leading from
Savanna to Augufta for the diftance of one hundred
miles or more, and then recroffed the river at Sil-
ver Bluff, a pleafant villa, the property and feat of
G. Golphin, efquire, a gentleman of very diftin-

X 4 guilbed

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3»*

guifhed talents and great liberality, who poffeffed
the moll extenfive trade, connexions and influence,
amongft the South and South-Weft Indian tribes,
particularly with the Creeks and Chadtaws ; of
whom I fortunately obtained letters of recommen-
dation and credit to the principal traders refiding
in the Indian towns.

Silver Bluff is a very celebrated place. It is a
confiderable height upon the Carolina fhore of the
Savanna river, perhaps thirty feet higher than the
low lands on the oppofite fhore, which are fubjedt
to be overflowed in the fpring and fall. This fteep
bank rifes perpendicularly out of the river, difcover-
ing various ftrata of earth j the furface for a confi-
derable depth is a loo fe Tandy loam, with a mixture
of fea fhells, efpecially oftreas ; the next ftratum is
clay, then fand, next marl, then clays again of vari-
ous colours and qualities, which laft infenfibly mix
or unite with a deep ftratum of blackifh or dark
flate coloured faline and fulphureous earth, which
fee ms to be of an aluminous or vitriolic quality,
and lies in nearly horizontal lamina or ftrata of va-
rious thicknefs. We difcovered bellemnites, pyrites,
marcafites and fulphureous nodules, fhining like
brafs, fome fingle of various forms, and others con-
glomerated, lying in this black flaty-like micaceous
earth ; as alfo flicks, limbs and trunks of trees,
leaves, acorns, and their cups, all tranfmuted or
changed black, hard and fhining as charcoal : we
alfo fee animal fubftances, as if petrified, or what
are called fharks’ teeth, (dentes carchariae) ; but
thefe heterogeneous fubftances or petrifadtions are
the moft abundant and confpicuous where there is a
loofer kind of earth, either immediately upon this
vaft ftratum of black earth, or in the divifions of

the

NORTH AMERICA. 3r3

the laminae. The furface of the ground upon this
bluff, extends a mile and a half or two miles
on the river, and is from an half mile to a mile in
breadth, nearly level, and a good fertile foil ; as is
evident from the vaft Oaks, Hickory, Mulberry,
Black walnut and other trees and fhrubs, which are
left {landing in the old fields which are fpread
abroad to a great diftance * and difcovers various
monuments and veftiges of the refidence of the
ancients ; as Indian conical mounts, terraces, areas,
&c. as well as remains or traces of fortreffes of re-
gular formation, as if conflrudted after the modes of
European military architedts, which are fuppofed
to be ancient camps of the Spaniards who formerly
fixed themfelves at this plaee in hopes of finding
filver.

But perhaps Mr. Golphin’s buildings and im-
provements will prove to be the foundation of mo-
numents of infinitely greater celebrity and perma-
nency than either of the preceding efiablifhments.

The place which at this day is called fort Moore,
is a flupendous bluff, or high perpendicular bank
of earth, riling out of the river on the Carolina
.Chore, perhaps ninety or one hundred feet above the
common furface of the water; and exhibits a fingu-
lar and pleafing fpedtacle to a ftranger, elpecially
from the oppofite fhore, or as we pafs up or down
the river, prefenting a view of prodigious walls of
party-coloured earths, chiefly clays and marl of va-
rious colours, as brown, red, yellow, blue, purple,
white, &c. in horizontal ftrata, one over the
other.

Waiting for the ferry boat to carry me over,
I walked almofl round the under fide of the bluff,
betwixt its fteep wall and the water of the river,

which

' 31 4

TRAVELS IN

which glided rapidly under my feet. I came to the
carcafe of a calf, which the people told me had
fallen down from the edge of the precipice above,
being invited too far by grafs and fweet herbs,
which they fay frequently happens at this place. In
early times, the Carolinians had a fort, and kept a
good garrifon here as a frontier and Indian trading
poll ; but Augufta fuperfeding it, this place was dif-
mantled: and fince that time, which probably can-
not exceed thirty years, the river hath fo much en-
croached upon the Carolina lhore, that its bed now
lies where the fite of the fort then was : indeed
fome told me that the oppofite Georgia fhore,
where there is now a fine houfe and corn field,
occupies the place.

The fite of Augufta is perhaps the moft delight-
ful and eligible of any in Georgia for a city. An ex-
tenfive level plain on the banks of a fine navigable
river, which has its numerous fources in the Chero-
kee mountains, a fruitful and temperate region,
whence, after roving and winding about thofe fertile
heights, they meander through a fertile hilly
country, and one after another combine in forming
the Tugilo and Broad rivers, and then the famous
Savannariver; thence they continue near an hundred
miles more, following its meanders and falls over
the cataracts at Augufta, which crqfs the river at
the upper end of the town. Thefe falls are four or
five feet perpendicular height in the fummer feafon
when the river is low. From thefe cataradts up-
wards, this river with all its tributaries, as Broad
river. Little river, Tugilo, &c. is one continued
rapid, with fome Abort intervals of ftill water, na-
vigable for canoes. But from Augufta downwards to
the ocean, a diftance of near three hundred miles
2 by

NORTH AMERICA.

315

by water, the Savanna uninterruptedly flows with
a gentle meandring courfe, and is navigable for
veflels of twenty or thirty tons burthen to Savanna,
where fhips of three hundred tons lie in a capacious
and fecure harbour.

Augufta thus feated at the head of navigation,
and juft below the conflux of feveral of its moft
conflderable branches, without a competitor, com-
mands the trade and commerce of vaft fruitful
regions above it, and from every fide to a great
diftance ; and I do not hefitate to pronounce as my
opinion, will very foon become the metropolis of
Georgia,*

I chofe to take this route up Savanna river, in
preference to the ftraight and fliorter road from
Charleftonto the Cherokee country by fort Ninety
Six,becaufe by keeping near this great river, I had
frequent opportunities of vifiting its fteep banks,
vaft fwamps and low grounds j and had the advan-
tage, without great delay, or deviating from the
main high road, of obferving the various foils and
fituations of the countries through which this fa-
mous river purfues its courfe, and of examining their
various productions, mineral, vegetable and animal:
whereas had I purfued the great trading path by
Ninety fix, Ifliould have been led over a high, dry,
fandy and gravelly ridge, and a great part of the
diftance an old fettled or reforted part of the coun-
try, and confequently void of the varieties of orim-
nal or novel productions of nature.

Before I leave Augufta, I fhall recite a curious
phenomenon, which may furnifh ample matter for

* A few years after the above remark, the feat of
moved from Savanna to Augufta.

government was re-

philofophical

TRAVELS IN

philofophical difcufiion to the curious naturalifts.
On the Georgia fide of the river, about fifteen miles
below Silver Bluff, the high road crofiesa ridge of
high fwelling hills of uncommon elevation, and
perhaps feventy feet higher than the furface of the
liver. Thefe hills, from three feet below the com-
mon vegetative furface, to the depth of twenty or
thirty feet, are compofed entirely of foflil oyfter
Ihells, internally of the colour and confiftency of
clear white marble : the fhells are of incredible
magnitude, generally fifteen or twenty inches in
length, from fix to eight wide, and two to four in
thicknefs, and their hollows fufficient to receive an
ordinary man’s foot : they appear all to have been
opened before the period of petrifa&ion, a tranfmu-
tation they feem evidently to have fuffered ; they
are undoubtedly very ancient or perhaps antidelu-
vian. The adjacent inhabitants burn them to lime
for building, for which purpofe they ferve very
well ; and would undoubtedly afford an excellent
manure when their lands require it, thefe hills be-
ing now remarkably fertile. The heaps of Ihells lie
upon a ftratum of a yellowifh fandy mould, of fe-
veral feet in depth, upon a foundation of foft white
rocks, that has the outward appearance of free-ftone,
but on ftrift examination is really a teftaceous con-
crete or compofition of fand and pulverifed fea
Ihells : in Ihort, this teftaceous rock approaches
near in quality and appearance to the Bahama or
Bermudian white rock.

Thefe hills are {haded with glorious Magnolia
grandiflora, Pylorus rubra, Tilia, Quercus, Ulmus,
Juglans, &c. with aromatic groves of fragrant
Callicanthus Floridus, Rhododendron ferrugineum,
J^aurus Indica, &c., i^fculus pavia, Cornus Flo-

NORTH AMERICA.

317

rida, Azalea coccinea, Philadelphia inodorus and
others ; but who would have expected to fee the
Dirca paluftris and Dodecatheon meadea grow in
abundance in this hot climate ! it is true they are
feen in the rich and deep fhaded vales, between
the hills and North expofure ; but they attain to a
degree of magnitude and fplendour never feen in,
Pennfylvania,

c;hap.

TRAVELS IN

3 ij

CHAP. II.

After conferring with gentlemen in Augufta,
converfant in Indian affairs, concerning my future
travels in thofe diftant, unexplored regions, and
obtaining letters to their agents in the Indian ter-
ritories, I fet off, proceeding for Fori James Dart-
mouth, at the confluence of Broad River with
Savanna, the road leading me near the banks of die
river for the diftance of near thirty miles, croffing
two or three of its confiderable branches, befides
rivulets and fmaller brooks. The furface of the
land uneven, by means of ridges or chains of fwell-
ing hills and correfponding vales, with level downs ;
the foil a loofe, grayifh-brown loamy mould on the
hills, but darker and more cohefive and humid in the
vales and downs ; this fuperficial, vegetative earth,
covers a deep ftratum of very tenacious yellowifh
clay : the downs afford grafs and various herbage ;
the vales and hills, foreft trees and fhrubs of various
tribes, i. e. Quercus tindloria, Q^alba, Q^ rubra,
lobata,Acer rubrum, A. Saccharinum,' A.glaucum,
Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus, Juglans hickory,
various fpecies, Quercus phillos, Quer. dentata, f.
hemifpherica, Quercus aquatica, or Maryland
Water Oak, Ulmus fylvatica, Liriodendron, Li-
quid-amber, Diofpyros, Cornus Florida, Prunusln-
dica, Prunus padus and Aifculus pavia ; and, near
water courfes in the vales, Stewartia malachoden-
dron, Halefia, Aifculus fylvatica, Styrax, Carpinus,
Magnolia acuminata, Mag. tripetala, Mag. auri-
culata, Azalea, &c. The rich humid lands in the
vales bordering on creeks and bafes of the hills,
likewife produce various trees, fhrubs and plants,
as Cercis,Corylus, Ptelea, Evonimus, Philadelphus
' inodorus,.

NORTH AMERICA.

319

inodorus, Staphylea trifoliata, Chionanthus, Ha-
mamelis, Callicarpa, Sambucus, Cornus alba, Vi-
burnum dentatum, Spirea opulifolia, Cornus fan-
guinea, Cephalanthus, &c. and of herbaceas a vaft
variety and abundance, as Verbefina, Rudbeckia,
Phafeolus, Tripfacum, Aconitum napellus, Delphi-
niurfi, Angelica lucida, Tradefcantia, Trillium fef-
file, Trillium cernuum, Adtaea, Chelone, Glycine
apios, Convalliaria racemofa, Mediola, Carduus,
Bidens frondofa, Arum triphyllum, Coreopfis alter-
nifolia, Circaea, Commelina, After, Solidago, Eu-
patorium, Helianthus, and Silphium, together with
a variety of other tribes and fpecies new to me.
In the evening I arrived at Little river, and took
up my quarters at a public houfe on its banks, near
its confluence with the Savanna. This is a beauti-
ful rapid water, about fifty yards over. On a branch
of this river is fituatedthe town ofWrightfborough.

Near the ford, on the banks of this river, I firft
obferved a very curious fhrub, a beautiful ever-
green, which appears to be allied to the Rhodo-
dendron, though the feed veflels feem to bear more
the charadteriftics of the Kalmia. This Ihrub mows
in copfes or little groves, in open, high fixations,
w lere trees of large growth are but fcatteringly
p anted ; many Ample Items arife together from a
root or fource eredt, four, five and fix feet hio-h ■
their limbs or branches, which are produced to-
wards the top of the Items, alfo ftand nearly eredt
lightly diverging from the main Items, which are
furnifhed with moderately large ovate pointed in-
tue leaves, of a pale or yellowilh green colour;
thefe leaves are of a firm, compadt texture, both
lurfaces fmooth and finning, and ftand nearly eredt

upon

TRAVELS IN

3~°

upon fliort petioles ; the branches terminate with
long, loofe panicles or fpikes of white flowers,
whofe fegments are five, long and narrow.

I arofe early next morning and continued my
journey for Fort James. This day’s progrefs was
agreeably entertaining, from the novelty and vari-
ety of objedts and views : the wild country now al-
moll depopulated, vafi: forefts, expanfive plains and
detached groves ; then chains of hills whofe gra-
velly, dry, barren fummits prefent detached piles of
rocks, which delude and flatter the hopes and ex-
pectations of the folitary traveller, full fure of
hofpitable habitations ; heaps of white, gnawed
bones of the ancient buffaloe, elk and deer , indis-
criminately mixed with thofe of men, half grown
over with mols, altogether, exhibit fcenes of un-
cultivated nature, on reflection, perhaps, rather
difagreeable to a mind of delicate feelings and fen-
libility, fince fome of thefe objects recognize paft
tranfactions and events, perhaps not altogether re-
concileable to juftice and humanity.

Flow harmonious and fweetly murmur the pur-
ling rills and fleeting brooks, roving along the
lhadowy vales, palling throgh dark, lubterranean
caverns, or dalhing over fteep rocky precipices,
their cold, humid banks condenfing the volatile va-
pours, which falling coalefce in cryftalline drops, on
the leaves and elafiic twigs of the aromatic flirubs
and incarnate flowers ! In theie cool, lequeftere ,
rocky vales, we behold the following celebrate
beaXi.es of the hills, fragrant Calycanthus, blue-
ing Rliododendron ferrugineum, delicate a_
delphus inodorus, which difplays the white wavy

mantle, with the Iky robed Delphinium, perfumed
1 Convallana

NORTH AMERICA 321

Convallaria and fiery Azalea, flaming on the at-
tending hills or wavy furface of the gliding brooks.
Tjie epithet fiery, I annex to this moll celebrated
Ipecies of Azalea, as being expreffive of the appear-
ance of its flowers, which are in general of the co-
lour of the fineft red lead, orange and bright gold*
as well as yellow and cream colour ; thefe various
iplendid colours are not only in feparate plants, but
frequently all the varieties and fhades are feen in
feparate branches on the fame plant ; and the clut-
ters of the bloffoms cover the fhrubs in fuch incre-
dible profufion on the hill tides, that fuddenly open-
ing to view from dark fhades, we are alarmed with
the apprehenfion of the hill being fet on fire. This
is certainly the moft gay and brilliant flowering
fhrub yet known: it grows in little copies or
clumps, in open forefts as well as dark groves, with,
other fhrubs, and about the bates of hills, efpecially
where brooks and rivulets wind about them : the
bufhes feldom rife above fix or feven feet in height,
and generally but three, four and five, but branch
and fpread their tops greatly ; the young leaves are
but very fmall whilft the fhrubs are in bloom, from
which circumftance the plant exhibits a greater
fhow of fplendoun

Towards evening I crofted Broad river at a good
ford, juft above its confluence with the Savanna,
and arrived at Fort James, which is a four fquare
ftockade, with faliant baftions at each angle, mount-
ed with a block-houfe, where are fome fwivel guns,
one ftory higher than the curtains, which are pier-
ced with loop-holes, breaft high, and defended by
fmall arms. The fortification enclofes about an a-
cre of ground, where is the governor’s or comman-
dant’s houfe, a good building, which is flanked on
each fide by buildings for the officers and barracks

Y fQr

322

travels in

for the garrifon, confiding of fifty ranges, including
officers, each having a good horfe well equipt, a
rifle, two dragoon piftols, and a hanger, befides a
powder horn, fhot pouch and tomahawk. The fort
Hands on an eminence in the forks between the Sa-
vanna and Broad rivers, about one mile above Fort
Charlotta, which is fituated near the banks of the
Savanna, on the Carolina fide. Fort James is fitu-
ated nearly at an equal diftance from the banks of
the two rivers, and from the extreme point of the
land that feparates them. The point or peninfula
between the two rivers, for the diftance of two
miles back from the fort, is laid out for a town, by
the name of Dartmouth, in honour to the earl of
Dartmouth, who, by his intereft and influence in
the Britifh councils, obtained from die king a grant
and powers in favour of the Indian trading company
of Georgia, to treat with the Creeks for the ceflion
of a quantity of land fufficient to dilcharge their
debts to the traders, for the lecurity and defence of
which territory this fcrtrefs was eftablifhed.

This territory, called the New Purchafe, con-
tains about two millions of acres, lying upon the
head of Great Ogechee, between the banks of the
Savanna and Alatamaha, touching on the Ocone,
and taking within its precin&s all the waters of
Broad and Little rivers ; comprehending a body of
excellent and fertile land, well watered by innume-
rable rivers, creeks and brooks.

I made a little excurfion up the Savanna river,
four or five miles above the fort, with the furgeon
of the garrifon, who was fo polite as to attend me
to fhow me fome remarkable Indian monuments,
which are worthy of every travellers notice. Thefe
wonderful labours of the ancients ftand in a level

j plain.

NORTH AMERICA.

323

plains very near the bank of the river, now twenty
or thirty yards from it. They confift of conical
mounts of earth and four fquare terraces, &c. T he
great mount is in the form of a cone, about forty
or fifty feet high, and the circumference of its bafe
two or three hundred yards, entirely compofed of
the loamy rich earth of the low grounds : the top
or apex is flat : a fpiral path or track leading from
the ground up to the top is ftill vifible, where now
grows a large, beautiful fpreading Red Cedar (Ju-
niperus Americana) : there appear four niches, ex-
cavated out of the fides of this hill, at different
heights from the bafe, fronting the four cardinal
points ; thefe niches or fentry boxes are entered in-
to from the winding path, and feem to have been
meant for refting places or look-outs. The circum-
jacent level grounds are cleared and planted with
Indian Corn at prefent; and I think the proprietor
of thefe lands, who accompanied us to this place,
faid that the mount itfelf yielded above one hun-
dred bufheJs in one feafon : the land hereabouts is
indeed exceeding fertile and productive.

It is altogether unknown to us, what could have
induced the Indians to raife fuch a heap of earth in
this place, the ground for a great fpace around be-
ing fubjeCt to inundations, at leaft once a year,
from which circumftance we may conclude they
had no town or fettled habitations here. Some ima-
gine thefe tumuli were conftrufted for look-cutf
towers. It is reafonable to fuppofe, however, that
they were to ferve fome important purpofe in thofe
days, as they were public works, and would have
required the united labour and attention of a whole
nation, circumftanced as they were, to have con-
ftruCled one of them almoft in an age. There are

Y 2 feveral

travels in

3U

feveral left ones round about the great one, with
fome very large tetragon terraces on each fide, near
one hundred yards in length, and their furface
four, fix, eight and ten feet above the ground on
which they ftand.

We may however hazard a conjecture ; that as
there is generally a narrow fpace or ridge in thefe
low lands, immediately bordering on the river’s
bank, which is eight or ten feet higher than the ad-
joining low grounds, that lie betwixt the dream and
the heights of the adjacent main land, which, when
the river overflows its banks, are many feet under
water, w'hen, at the fame time, this ridge on the
river bank is above water and dry, and at fuch in-
undations appears as an ifland in the river ; thefe
people might have had a town on this ridge, and
this mount raifed for a retreat and refuge in cafe of
inundations, which are unforefeen and furprize them
very luddenly, fpring and autumn.

Having finifhed my collections and obfervations,
which were extended to a confiderable diflance in
the environs of Dartmouth ; May ioth fat off a-
gain, proceeding for Keowe ; rode fix or eight
miles up the river above the fort ; eroded over into
Carolina and foon got into the high road ; but had
not proceeded far, when I was lurprifed by a Hidden
very heavy fhower of rain, attended with terrific
thunder, but luckily found prefent fhelter at a farm
houfe, where I continued above an hour before
its fury abated ; when I proceeded again, and not-
withstanding this detention and obftacles in conle-
quence of the heavy rains in raifing the creeks, tra-
velled thirty five miles, and arrived in the evening
at Mr. Cameron’s, deputy com miliary for Indian
affairs for the Cherokee nation, to whom I was re-
commended

NORTH AMERICA*

325

commended by letters from the honourable John
Stewart, luperintendant, refiding at Charlefton,
mentioning my bufinefs in the Cherokee country.

The road this day had led me over an uneven
country, its furface undulated by ridges or chains
of hills, fometimes rough with rocks and ftones,
yet generally productive of forefls, with a variety
of vegetables of inferior growth, i. e. Quercus, va-
rious fpecies, Juglans hickory, varieties, Lirioden-
dron, Fraxinus, Fagus fylvatica, Fagus caflanea,
Fagus pumila, f. Chinkapin, Nyfla Sylvatica, Acer
rubrum, iEfculus fylvatica, Magnolia acuminata.
Magnolia tripetala, Andromeda arborea, Hopea
tin6toria,i5Efculuspavia, Viburnum, Azalea flammea
and other fpecies ; Hydrangea, Calycanthus, &c.

The feafon being uncommonly wet, almoft daily
fhowers of rain, frequently attended with tre-
mendous thunder, rendered travelling difagreeable,
toilfome and hazardous, through an uninhabited
wildernefs, abounding with rivers and brooks. I
w'as prevailed upon by Mr. Cameron to flay at
his houfe a few days, until the rains ceafed 'and
the rivers could be more eafily forded.

The Angelica lucida or nondo grows here in a-
bundance : its aromatic carminative root is in take
much like that of the Ginfeng (Panax) though more
of the take and fcent of Anife feed: it is in hio-h
eftimation with the Indians as well as white inha-
bitants, and fells at a great price to the Southern
Indians of Florida, who dwell near the fea coaft
where this never grows fpontaneoufly. I obferved
a charming fpecies of Malva, having panicles of
large fplendid purple or deep blue flowers; and an-
other fpecies of Malva, very Angular indeed, for

^ 3 it

TRAVELS IN

326

it is a climber ; the leaves are broad, which, with
the whole plant, are hoary ; the flowers are very
fmall, and of a greenifh white. Here grows alfo in
abundance a beautiful fpecies of Delphinium ; the
flowers differ in no refpeft from thofe of the com-
mon branching Larkfpur of the gardens 5 they are
of a fine deep blue colour, and difpofed in long
fparfed fpikes ; the leaves are compound, alrpoit
linear, but the fegments not fo fine cut as thofe ot

the garden Larkfpur.

The weather now fettled and fair, I prepared
to proceed for Fort Prince George Keowe, having
obtained of the agreeable and libera1 Mr Camc-
ion ample teftimonials and letters of recommen-
dation to the traders in the nation: th« gentleman
alfo very obligingly fent a young Tsegro ilave
to afiift and pilot me as far as Senica.

May 15th I left Lough-abber, the feat of Mr.
Cameron. In the courfe of this day s journey I
crated feveral rivers and brooks, all branches of the
Savanna, now called Keowe, above «s confluence
with the Tugilo, the Weft main branch. The“
of the country uneven, by means of ridges ot tuns
and water courfes ; the hills fomewhat rocky near
theiriummits and at the banks of nv«s»» « «* •

but very fertile, as there 15 a S°°kn a ftmum of
and moft vegetative mould, on a ltratum 01

reidim brnwn tenacious clay, ^ fome= a deep
fl i-amm of dulky brown marl. 1 he vegetable p
dXns obferXd during this day’s P™Sf ^
generally the fame as already recited fince ieav 0

Dartmouth. The

fhem, towards the fumnnts of tie e °conf^cuoufl^

NORTH AMSftlCA.

327

confpicuouflv c beautiful flowering fhrub, grows to
the height of five or fix fee t; many divergent crook -
ed items arife together from a root orfource, which
dividing their branches, wreath about every way
after a very irregular and free order; the exterior
fubdivifions of thefe limbs terminate with a heavy
c ufter or thyrfis of rofe or pink coloured flowers^
fpeckled or variegated with crimfon, larger, more
expanfive and regular in their formation than diofe

rl CfaViau\and thefe ^eav7 fpikes of flowers
charged with the morning dews, bend the flender

flexile ftems to the ground : the compound leaves '

are of the configuration of thofe of the Pavia, but

broader and their veins more prominent. The

ab(?ut the tops of the more barren
grafly hflls where large trees are few and fcattered

fin° ap**S't0 §reat adVantagC’ “d

There are abundance of Grape vines (’Vitisvini

te l7lCh HTble 3nd fpread the^elves ovt-
Ihriibs and low trees in thefe fixations and 1

was a fibred produce fruit affording "n excellent

JlrCC, ‘ tbe §raPes are of various colours when ripe
of the figure and about the fize of the Eu onTan

te‘rnr ^ ,Arrived at Sinica the eveninT £

bited Sernefs?rty ^ ^ thr°Ugh an uni”ha"

b](-TIrpCber0^re t0Wn Sinica is a very refpe&a
blc fetdement, fituated on the Eaft ban I, Lvi v
owe river, though the ffrearefi n, u Ke~

Ae green pMins and

1 + with

3*8

TRAVELS IN

withthofe of the traders, andfome Indian dwellings,
are feated on the afcent of the heights on the op-
pofite Ihore. This fituation in point of profpeft
far excels the other, as it overlooks the whole fet-
tlement, the extenfive fruitful plains on the river
above and below, and the plantations of the inha-
bitants, commanding a molt comprehenfive diver-
fified view of the oppofite elevations.

Sinica is a new town rebuilt fince the late Indian
war, when the Cherokees were vanquilhed and com-
pelled to fue for peace, by general Middleton,
commander of the Carolinian auxiliaries acting a-
eainft them, when the lower and middle fettlements
were broken up : the number of inhabitants are
now eftimated at about five hundred, and they are
able to mufter about one hundred warriors.

Next day I left Sinica alone, and after riding
about fixteen miles, chiefly through high forefts o
excellent land at a little diftance from the river, ar-
rived in the evening at fort Prince George Keowe.

Keowe is a moft charming fituation, and the ad-
vent heights are naturally fo formed and difpofed
as with little expence of military architefture to be
rendered almoft impregnable. It lies m a ferti
vale, at this feafon enamelled with the incarnate
flagrant ftrawberries and blooming plants, throug
which the beautiful river meanders, lome times
gently flowing, but more frequently agitated, ghd-
fnc r fwiftly between the fruitful ftrawberry banks, en
viToned at various diftances by high hills and moun-
Sins feme riling boldly almoft upnghc upon *e
verge of the expanfive lawn, fo as to
Ihadow it, whilft others more lofty, lupei , Y
and blue, maieftically mount far above.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

329

The evening ftill and calm, all Went and peace-
vivifying gentle breeze continually wafted
from the fragrant ftrawbeny fields, and aromatic
eXcanthean groves on the furroundmg heights s
Fe rrary moor-fowl thundering in the diftant echo
invWUs : how the groves and hills rmg wuh the
Ihrill perpetual voice of the whip-poor-will .

Abandoned as my fituation now was, yet tnank
heaven many objefts met together at this time, and.
confpired to conciliate, and in iome c-eg'j;c ,
pofe^my mind, heretofore fomewhat dejeded an
unharmonized : all alone in a wild Indian counti y,
a thoufand miles from my native land, and a vait
diftance from any fettlements of white people. It
is true, here were fome of my own colour, yet they
were ftrangers; and though friendly and hofpi table,
their manners and cuftoms of living io differen
from what I had been accuftomed to, admimltered
but little to my confolation : fome hundred miles
yet to travel; the favage vindiftive inhabitants late-
ly ill-treated by the frontier Virginians ; blood be-
ing fpilt between them and the injury not yet wiped
away by formal treaty : the Cherokees extreme-
ly iealous of white people travelling about then
mountains, efpe dally if they fhould be feen peep-
ing in amongft the rocks, or digging up their
earth.

The vale of Keowe is feven or eight miles in ex-
tent, that is, from the little town of Kulfage* about
a mile above, thence down the river fix or feven
miles, where a high ridge of hills on each fide ot
the river almoft terminates the vale, but opens again
[oelow the narrow ridge, and continues ten or twelve

* Sugar Town.

miles

33°

travels in

miles down to Sinica, and in width one and two
miles. T his fertile vale within the remembrance of
fome old traders with whom I converted, was one
continued _ fettle men t ; the fwelling fides of the ad-
joirnng hills were then covered with habitations,
and the rich level grounds beneath lying on the ri
ver, was cultivated and planted, which now exhi-
bit a very different fpeftacle, humiliating indeed to
the prelent generation, the pofterity and feeble re-
mains of the once potent and renowned Cherokees*
the veftiges ofrthe ancient Indian dwellings are yet
vifible on the feet of the hills bordering and front-
ing on the vale, fuch as ports or pillars of their ha-
bitations, &c.

There are feveral Indian mounts or tumuli, and
terraces, monuments of the ancients, at the old fite
of Keowe, near the fort Prince George, but no In-
dian habitations at prefent; and here are feveral
dwellings inhabited by white people concerned in
the Indian trade : Mr. D. Homes is the principal
trader here. r

I he old fort Prince George now bears no marks
or a fortrels, but ferves for a trading houfe.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA,

331

chap, hi:

I waited two or three days at this poll expetting
the return of an Indian who was out hunting. This
man was recommended to me as a fuitable perfon
for a protettor and guide to the Indian fettlements
over the hills; but upon information that he would
not be in Ihorcly, and there being no other perfon
fuitable for the purpofe, rather than be detained,
and perhaps thereby fruftrated in my purpofes, I
determined to fet off alone and run all rifks.

I eroded the river at a good ford juft below the
old fort. The river here is near one hundred yards
over. After an agreeable progrefs for about two
miles over delightful ftrawberry plains, and Gently
dwelling green hills, I began to afeend more^fteep
and rocky ridges. Having gained a very con-
iiderable elevation, looking around, I enjoyed a
very comprehenfiye and delightful view : Keowe
which I had but juft loft fight of, appeared again,
and Lhe lerpentine river fpeeding through the lucid
green plain apparently juft under my feet. After
obfervmg this delightful landfcape, 1 continued on

tS I n” °r foUr m,Ies’ kecPm8 rhc‘ trading path,
which led me over uneven rocky land, eroding rivu-
lets and brooks, and rapidly defeending over rockv

ETiC!?1CfSi v,'htn 1 came into a charming vale, eiV-
e llhed with a delightful glittering river, which
meandered through it, and eroded my road. On my
left hand, upon the gralty bales of the rifing hill/
appeared the remains of a town of the ancients, al

the

33*

travels in

the tumuli, terraces, polls or pillars, old Peach and
Plumb or chards, &c. fufficiently teftify. Thefe
vales and fwelling bafes of the furrounding hills,
afford vaft crops of excellent grafs and herbage fit
for pafturage and hay ; of the Tatter, Plantago Vir-
ginica, Sanguiforba, Geum, Fragaria, See. The
Panax quinquefolium, or Ginleng, now appears
plentifully on the North expofure of the hill, grow-
ing out of the rich mellow humid earch amongft
the flones or fragments of rocks.

Having eroded the vales, I began to afeend again
the more lofty ridges of hills; then continued about
eight miles over more gentle pyramidal hills, nar-
row vales and lawns, the foil exceedingly fertile,
producing lofty forefts and odoriferous groves of
Calycanthus, near the banks of rivers, with Halefia,
Philadelphus inodorus, Rhododendron ferrugineum.
Azalea, Stewartia montana*, fol. ovatis acuminatis
ferratis, flor. niveo, ftaminum corona fulgida, peri-
carp. pomu'm exfuccum, apice acuminato dehifeens,
Cornus Florida, Styrax, all in full bloom, and de-
corated with the following fweet roving climbers,
Bignonia fempervirens. Big. crucigera, Lonicera
fempervirens, Rofa paniculata, &c.

Now at once the mount divide ; and difclofe to
view the ample Occonne vale, encircled by a
wreath of uniform hills ; their fwelling bafes clad
in cheerful verdure, over which, ifluing from be-
tween the mountains, plays along a glittering river,
meandering through the meadows. Crofting thefe
at the upper end of the vale, I began to afeend the
Occonne mountain. On the foot of the hills are

* This is a new fpecies of Stewartia, unknown to the Europtan botanifts,
^nd not mentioned in any catalogues.

ruins

NORTH AMERICA.

333

ruins of the ancient Occonne town. The firft ftep
after leaving the verdant beds of the hills, was a
very high rocky chain of pointed hills, extremely
well timbered with the following trees : Quercus
tinttoria, Querc. alba, Querc. rubra, Fraxinus ex-
celfior, Juglans hickory various fpecies, Ulmus,
Tilia, Acer faccharinum, Morus, Juglans nigra,
Juglans alba, Annona glabra, Robinia pfeudacacia.
Magnolia acuminata, iEfculus fylvatica, with many
more, particularly a fpecies of Robinia new to me,
though perhaps the fame as figured and (lightly
defcribed by Catefby in his Nat. Hid. Carol. This
beautiful flowering tree grows twenty and thirty feet
high, with a crooked leaning trunk ; the branches
fpread greatly, and wreath about, fome almoft
touching the ground; however there appears a
Angular pleaflng wildnefs and freedom in its man-
ner of growth; the (lender fubdiviflons of the
branches terminate with heavy compound panicles
of rofe or pink coloured flowers, amidft a wreath
of beautiful pinnated leaves.

My next flight was up a very high peak, to the
top of the Occonne mountain, where I reded; and
turning about, found that I was now in a very ele-
vated (ituation, from whence I enjoyed a view in-
expreflibly magnificent and comprehenfive. The
mountainous wildernefs which I had lately tra-
verfed, down to the region of Auguda, appear-
ing regularly undulated as the great ocean after a
temped ; the undulations gradually depreflin^ yet
perfectly regular, as the fquama of fifh, or imbri-
cations of tile on a roof : the neared ground to me
ofaperfea full green ; next more glaucous ; and
ialtly almod blue as the ether with which the

mod

334

travels in

moll: diftant curve of the horizon Teemed to be
blended.

My imagination thus wholly engaged in the con-
templation of this magnificent landfcape, infinitely
varied, and without bound, I was almoft infenfible
or regardlefs of the charming objefts more within
my reach : a new fpecies of Rhododendron fore-
moft in the afiembly of mountain beauties ■, next
the flaming Azalea, Kalmia latifolia, incarnate
Robinia, fnowy mantled Philadelphus inodorus,
perfumed Calycanthus, &c.

This fpecies of Rhododendron grows fix or feven
feet high ; many nearly eretft ftems arife together
from the root, forming a group or coppice. The
leaves are three or four inches in length, of an
oblong figure, broadefl toward the extremity, and
terminating with an obtufe point ; their upper fur-
face of a deep green and polifhed ; but the nether
furface of a rufty iron colour, which leems to be
effected by innumerable minute reddifh vehicles,
beneath a fine fhort downy pubefcence ; the nu-
merous flexile branches terminate with a loofe
fpiked raceme, or duller of large deep rofe co-
loured flowers, each flower being affixed in the
diffufed duller of a long peduncle, which, with the
whole plant, poflefles an agreeable perfume.

After being recovered of the fatigue and labour
in afcending the mountain, I began again to pro-
lecute my talk, proceeding through a fhady forell;
and foon after gained the mofl elevated crefl of the
Occonne mountain, and then began to defcend the
other fide j the winding rough road carrying me
over rocky hills and levels, fhaded by incomparable
forefls, the foil exceedingly rich, and of an excel-

NORTH AMERICA.

335

lent quality for the production of every vegetable
uited to the climate, andfeeming peculiarly adapt-
ed for the cultivation of Vines (Vitis vinifera),
lives (Olea Europea), the Almond tree fAmyo-

tt Po°TUniS)j (FicUS Cadca^ and perhaps
he Pomgranate, (Pumca granatum), as well as

va etS /runus, Pyrus, of every

tl^n r rh ] l Pi ^ agam iheP rocky afcems> and

common i n P ™ grew many trees and PJants
common in Pennfyl vania, New- York and even

2cr fi’crh mUSftr°abUS,Pin- Pin. abies,

Acer facchannum, Acer ftriatum, f Penfylvani-

&c ’ buf whaff mU'a’ Petula ni8''a> J uglans alba,
ftminerRir remarkabl<b the yellow Jef-

a very fe >°nia fempemrens), which is killed by

herein the ”,

afiociates with the Canadian

pears roving with them inperfert hi™ ’J • P~

as Jikewife Halefia dipt£a ^kl22naandg^ T>

mountain Stewartia, Styrax Ptelei^r t?traPtera>

but all thefe bear our harfleV V a • ^fculus pavia;
Now 1 enter a charmYnt t $ * Pennf>Nania.
which flows a rapid f’ r^h

iare happily affociated the (hubs °Jl " j°fe bani<S
together with the following c! u?dy recited>
anus Americana', Hamamelif ’ ^ ^ Euoni~

xcies, Ariftolochia frutefeens f A^aJea? vanous Ape-
ries over the t £ es and £ °.d°ratlffim^ which
tanks of thefe mou^to^f pj^ f0,ife

dered by the /hade of a IdJlV" i*'6 lrft’ embtoi-
K hil,s» the circular rido-es^fini™ ^ amPhitheatre
-er the other. M 0ne

tfeents appear the ruins of a town of rtf °f thefe

or tne ancients.

The

TRAVELS IN

336

The upper end of this fpacious green plain is
divided by a promontory or fpur of the ridges be-
fore me, which projects into it : my road led me
up into an opening of the afcents through which
the glittering brook which watered the meadows
ran rapidly down, dalhing and roaring over high
rocky fteps. Continued yet afcending until I
gained the top of an elevated rocky ridge, when
appeared before me a gap or opening between
odrer yet more lofty afcents, through which con-
rinued as 'he rough rocky road led me, clofe by
the winding banks of a large rapid brook, which at
length turning to the left, pouring down rocky pre-

cimces glided off through dark groves and high

ffis, conveying dreams of fertility and pleafure
to the fields below.

The furface of the land now for three or four
miles is level, yet uneven, occafioned by natural
m0unds or rocky knobs, but covered with a good
ftaple of rich earth, which affords forefts of timber
Jes and fhrubs. After this, gently d,elfendff®
acrain I travelled fome miles over a varied fituatiorf

of ground exhibiting views of grand forefts, dark

de:rh:luSv^rv":^

StW ' aandWth "oVSb“nc"Xg:
hilllfflo veering plants, and

tK^rSC°roired a delightM nw

the main branch of Tugilo, when I egan^_^

again, firft over ^elhng ftuify thenga^ending again

groves of ftateiy fo eft , j on the top of

more fteep graffy hill hoes, r Q be the

mount Magnoim, whic i appe tains which

higheft ridge of the Cherokee fcpa ia

NORTH AMERICA.

337

feparate the waters of Savanna river from thofe of
the Tanafe or greater main branch of the Cherokee
river. This running rapidly a North-Weft courfe
through the mountains, is joined from theNorth-
Eaft by the Holftein; thence taking a Weft courfe
yet amongft the mountains, receiving into it from
either hand many large rivers, leaves the mountains
immediately after being joined by a large river
from the Eaft, becomes a mighty river by the
name of Hogehege, thence meanders many hun-
dred miles through a vaft country confifting of
forefts, meadows, groves, expanfive favannas, fields
and fwelling hills, moft fertile and delightful, flows
into the beautiful Ohio, and in conjundtion with its
tranfparent waters, becomes tributary to the fove-
reign Mifliflippi.

This exalted peak I named mount Magnolia,
from a new and beautiful fpecies of that celebrated
family of flowering trees, which here, at the cas-
cades of Falling Creek, grows in a high degree of
perfedtion : I had, indeed noticed, this curious tree
feveral times before, particularly on the high ridges
betwixt Sinica and Keowe, and on afcending the
firft mountain after leaving Keowe, when I ob-
ferved it in flower, but here it ftourilhes and com-
mands our attention.

_ This tree,* or perhaps rather fhrub, rifes
eighteen to thirty feet in height ; there are ufually
many Items from a root or fource, which lean a
little, or (lightly diverge from each other, in this
refpedt imitating the Magnolia tripetala; the
crooked wreathing branches arifing and fubdiving
from the main Item without order or uniformity^

* Magnolia auriculata.

2 their

travels in

33S

their extremities turn upwards, producing a very
large rofaceous, perfedtly white, double or polype-
talous flower, which is of a moft fragrant fcent; this
fine flower fits in the centre of a radius of very large
leaves, which are of a Angular Agure, fomewhat
lanceolate, but broad towards their extremities, ter-
minating with an acuminated point, and backwards
they attenuate and become very narrow towards
their bafes, terminating that way with two long,
narrow- ears or lappets, one on each Ade of the in-
fertion of the petiole ; the leaves have only Ihort
footftalks, fitting very near each other, at the ex-
tremities of the floriferous branches, from whence
they fpread themfelves after a regular order, like
the fpokes of a wheel, their margins touching or
lightly lapping upon each other, form an expanAve
umbrella fuperbly crowned or crefted with the
fragrant flower, reprefenting a white plume ; the
bloflom is fucceeded by a very large crimfon cone
or ftrobile, containing a great number of fcarlet
berries, which, when ripe, fpring from their cells
and are for a time lufpended by a white Alky web
or thread. The leaves of thofe trees which grow
in a rich, light humid foil, when fully expanded
and at maturity, are frequently above two feet in
length and Ax or eight inches where broadeft. I
difcovered in the maritime parts of Georgia, par-
ticularly on the banks of the Alatamaha, another
new fpecies of Magnolia, whofe leaves were nearly
of the Agure of thofe of this tree, but they were
much lefs in Aze, not more than Ax or feven inches
in length, and the ftrobile very fmall, oblong, fliarp
pointed and of a ftne deep crimfon colour; but I never
faw the flower. Thefe trees grow ftraight and
ere£t, thirty feet or more in height, and of a fharp
conical form, much refembling the Cucumber tree
(Mag. acuminata) in figure.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

339

The day being remarkably warm and fuhry>
together with the labour and fatigue of afcending
the mountains, made me very thirfty and in fome
degree funk my fpirits. Now paft mid-day, I
fought a cool fhaded retreat, where was water for
refrefhment and grazing for my horfe, my faithful
Have and only companion. After proceeding a
little farther, defending the other fide ofthe'moun-
tain, I perceived at fome diftance before me, on
my right hand, a level plain fupporting a grand
high foreft and groves : the nearer I approached, my
Heps were the more accelerated from the flattering
prolpeft opening to view. I now entered upon the
verge of the dark foreft, charming folitude ! as I
advanced through the animating fliades, obferved
on the farther grafly verge a fhady grove; thither
I directed my fteps. On approaching thefe fliades,
between the {lately columns of the fuperb foreft
trees, prefented to view, ruffling from rocky pre-
cipices under the lflade of the penfile hills, the un-
paralleled cafcade of Falling Creek, rolling and
leaping off the rocks ; the waters uniting below,
fpread a broad, glittering {fleet over a vaft convex
elevation of plain fmooth rocks, and are immedi-
ately received by a fpacious bafon, where trembling
m the centre through hurry and agitation, they
gently fubfide, encircling the painted ftill verge ;
from whence gliding fwiftly, they foon form a de-
lightful little river, which continuing to flow more
moderately, is reftrained for a moment, gently un-
dulating in a little lake : they then pafs on rapidly
to a high perpendicular fteep of rocks, from when ce
thefe delightful waters are flurried down with irre
fiftible rapidity. I here feated myfelf on the mofs-
clad rocks, under the lflade of fpreading trees and

flornerous fragrant flirubs, in full view of the caf-
cades.

140

TRAVELS IN'

At this rural retirement were affembled a charm-
ing circle of mountain vegetable beauties ; Mag-
nolia auriculata, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Ksl-
mia larifolia, Robinia montana, Azalea flammula,
R.ofapaniculata,Calycanthus Floridus, Philadelphus
inodorus, perfumed Convalaria majalis, Anemone
thali£froides, Anemone hepatica, Erythronium
maculatum, Leontice thalidfroides, Trillium feffile,
Trillium cefnum, Cypripedium, Arethufa, Ophrys,
Sanguinaria, Viola uvularia, Epigea, Mitchella re-
peris, Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax, Lonicera, &c.
borne of thefe roving beauties ftroll over the
mofly, {helving, humid rocks, or from off the ex-
panfive wavy boughs of trees, bending over the
floods, falute their delufive fhade, playing on the
furface; fome plunge their perfumed heads and
bathe their flexile limbs in the filver dream ; whild
others by the mountain breezes are tofled about,
their blooming tufts befpangled with pearly and
chrydaline dew-drops colleited from the falling
miffs, glidening in the rainbow arch. Having
collected fome valuable fpecimens at this friendly
retreat, I continued my lonefome pilgrimage. My
road for a confiderable time led me winding and
turning about the deep rocky hills ; the defccnt of
fome of which were very rough and troublefome,by
means of fragments of rocks, llippery clay and talc:
but after this 1 entered a fpacious foreff, the land
having gradually acquired a more level furface : a
pretty graffy vale appears on my right, through
which my wandering path led me, clofe by the
banks of a delightful creek, which fometimes fall-
ing over fteps of rocks, glides gently with ferpen-
tine meanders through the meadows.

After eroding this delightful brook and mead,
the land rifes again with fublime magnificence, and

I am

NORTH AMERICA.

34r

I am led over hills and vales, groves and high
forefts, vocal with the melody of the feathered
fongfters ; the fnow-white cafcades glittering on
the Tides of the diftant hills.

It was now afternoon; I approached a charming
vale, amidft fublimely high forefts, awful (hades !
Darknefs gathers around ; far diftant thunder rolls
over the trembling hills: the black clouds with
auguft majefty and power, move (lowly forwards,
(hading regions of towering hills, and threatening
all the deftruftion of a thunder ftorm : all around
is now dill as death ; not a whifper is heard, but a
total ina&ivity and filence feem to pervade the
earth; the birds afraid to utter a chirrup, in
low tremulous voices take leave of each other,
feeking covert and fafety : every infetft is filenced,
and nothing heard but the roaring of the approach-
ing hurricane. The mighty cloud now expands its
fable wings, extending from North to South, and
is driven irrefiftibly on by the tumultuous winds,
fpreading its livid wings around the gloomy con-
cave, armed with terrors of thunder and fiery (bafts
of lightning. Now the lofty forefts bend low be-
neath its fury ; their limbs and wavy boughs are
totted about and catch hold of each other ; the
mountains tremble and feem to reel about, and
the ancient hills to be fhaken to their foundations :
the furious ftorm (weeps along, fmoaking through
the vale and over the refounding hills : the face
of the earth is obfeured by the deluge defeendino-
from the firmament, and I am deafened by the din
of the thunder. The tempeftuous (cene damps my
Spirits, and my horfe finks under me at the tre-
mendous peals, as I haften on for the plain.

The ftorm abating, I

faw an Indian hunting

r? 0

3 cabin

342

TRAVELS IN

cabin on the fide of a hill, a very agreeable prof-
pe&, efpecially in my prefent condition ; I made
up to it and took quiet pofleflion, there being no
one to difpute it with me except a few bats and
whip-poor-willsjwho had repaired thither for fhelter
from the violence of the hurricane.

Having turned out my horfe in the fweet mea-
dows adjoining, and found fome dry wood under
lhelter of the old cabin, I ftruckup a fire, dried my
clothes, and comforted myfelf with a frugal repaft
of bifcuit and dried beef, which was all the food my
viaticum afforded me by this time, excepting a
fmall piece of cheefe w'hich I had furnifhed myfelf
with at Chariefton and kept till this time.

The night was clear, calm and cool, and I refted
quietly. Next morning at day break I was awak-
ened and fummoned to refume my daily tafk, by
the fhrill cries of the focial night hawk and adtive
merry mock- bird. By the time the.rifing fun had
gilded the tops of the towering hills, the mountains
and vales rang w'ith the harmonious fhouts of
the pious and cheerful tenants of the groves and
meads.

I obferved growing in great abundance in thefe
mountain meadows, Sanguiforba Canadenfis and
Heracleum maximum ; the latter exhibiting a fine
Ihow, being rendered confpicuous even at a great
diftance, by its great height and fpread, vafl pen-
natifid leaves and expanfive umbels of fnow-white
flowers. The fwelling bafes of the furrounding
hills fronting the meadows prefented f^r my ac-
ceptance the fragrant red ftrawberry, in painted
beds of many acres furface, indeed I may fafely fay,
many hundreds.

After

NORTH AMERICA.

343

After pafting through this meadow, the road led
me over the bafes of a ridge of hills, which as a bold
promontory dividing the fields I had juft palled,
form expanfive green lawns. On thefe towering
hills appeared the ruins of the ancient famous town
of Sticoe. Here was a vaft Indian mount or tu-
mulus and great terrace, on which flood the coun-
cil-houfe, with banks encompafli'ng their circus ;
here were alfo old Peach and Plumb orchards ;
fome of the trees appeared yet thriving and fruitful.
Prefently after leaving thefe ruins, the vale and
fields are divided by means of a fpur of the moun-
tains pulhing forward : here likewife the road fork-
ed ; the left-hand path continued up the mountains
to the Overhill towns : 1 followed the vale to the
right hand, and foon began again to afcend the hills,
riding feveral miles over very rough, ftony land,
yielding the like vegetable produ&ions as hereto-
fore; and defcending again gradually, by a dubious
winding path, leading into a narrow vale and lawn,
through which rolled on before me a delightful
brook, water of the Tanafe. I crofted it and con-
tinued a mile or two down the meadows ; when
the high mountains on each fide fuddenly receding,
difcovered the opening of the extenfive and fruit-
ful vale of Cowe, through which meanders the
head branch of the Tanafe, almoft from its fource,
fixty miles, following its courfe down to Cowe.

I left for a little while, the ftream paffing fwiftly
and foaming over its rocky bed, lafhing the fteep
craggy banks, and then fuddenly funk from my
fight, murmuring hollow and deep under the rocky
furface of the ground. On my right hand the vale
expands, receiving a pretty filvery brook of water

^ 4 which

TRAVELS IN

344

•which came haftily down from the adjacent hills,
and entered the river a little distance before me.
I now turn from the heights on my left, the road
leading into the level lawns, to avoid the hollow
rocky grounds, full of holes and cavities, arching
over the river, through which the waters are feen
gliding along ; but the river is foon liberated from
thefe folitary and gloomy receJTes, and appears
waving through the green plain before me. I con-
tinued feveral miles, purfuing my ferpentine path,
through and over the meadows and green fields,
and crofiing the river, which is here incredibly in-
creafed ip fize, by the continual accelfion of brooks
flowing in from the hills on each fide, dividing
their green turfy beds, forming them into parterres,
villas and verdant fwelling knolls, profufely pro-
du<5tive of flowers and fragrant flrawberries, their
rich juice dying my horfes feet and ancles.

Thefe fwelling hills the prolific beds on which
the towering mountains repofe, feem to have been
the common fituations of the towns of the ancients,
as appears from the remaining ruins of them yet to
be feen, and the level rich vale and meadows in
front, their planting grounds.

Continue yet ten or twelve miles down the vale,
my road leading at times clofe to the banks of the
river, the Azalea, Kalmia, Rhododendron, Philadel-
phus, &c., beautifying his now elevated lhores, and
painting the coves with a rich and cheerful feenery,
continually unfolding new profpedls as I traverle
the fhores : the towering mountains feem conti-
nually in motion as I pafs along, pompoufly railing
their fuperb crells towards the lofty Ikies, traverfing
the far dillant horizon.

The

NORTH AMERICA.

345

TheTanafe is now greatly increafed from the
conflux of the multitude of rivulets and brooks,
defcending from the hills on either fide, generoufly
contributing to eftablifh his future fame, already a
ipacious river.

The mountains recede, the vale expands ; two
beautiful rivulets ftream down through lateral vales,
gliding in ferpentine mazes over the green turfy
knolls, and enter the Tanafe nearly opppfite to each
other. Straight forward the expanfive green vale
feems yet infinite : now on the right hand a lofty
pyramidal hill terminates a Ipur of the adjacent
mountain, and advances almoft into the river ;
but immediately after doubling this promontory,
an expanded wing of the vale fpreads on my right,
down which came precipitately a very beautiful
creek, which flowed into the river juft before me ;
but now behold, high upon the fide of a diftant
mountain overlooking the vale, the fountain of this
brilk-flowing creek ; the unparalleled waterfall ap-
pears as a vaft edifice with cryftal front, or a field
of ice lying on the bofom of the hill.

I now approach the river at the fording place,
which was greatly fwollen by the floods of rain that
fell the day before, and ran with foaming rapidity ;
but obferving that it had fallen feveral feet per-
pendicular, and perceiving the bottom or bed of
the river to be level, and covered evenly with peb-
bles, I ventured to crofs over ; however I was obli-
ged to fwim two or three yards at the deepeft cha-
nel ot it, and landed fafely on the banks of a fine
meadow, which lay on the oppofite fhore, where I
immediately alighted and lpread abroad on the turf
my linen, books and fpecimens of plants, &c. to dry,
turned out my fteed to giaze and then advanced in-

TRAVELS IN

34-6

to the ftrawbcrry plains to regale on the fragrant,
delicious fruit, welcomed by communities of the
Iplendid meleagris, the capricious roe-buck, and
all the free and happy tribes which pofiefs and in-
habit thofe prolific fields, who appeared to invite
and joined with me in the participation of the boun-
tiful repaft prefented to us from the lap of nature.

I mounted again, and followed the trading path
about a quarter of a mile through the fields, then
gently afcended the green beds of the hills, and en-
tered the forefts, being a point of a chain of hills
projecting into the green vale or low lands of the
rivers. This foreft continued about a mile, the
furface of the land level but rough, being covered
with {tones or fragments of rocks, and very large,
fmooth pebbles of various fhapes and fizes, fome of
ten or fifteen pounds weight : I obferved on each
fide of the road many vaft heaps of thefe ftones,
Indian graves undoubtedly *.

After I left the graves, the ample vale foon of-
fered on my right hand, through the tall foreft
trees, charming views, which exhibited a pleafing
contraft, immediately out of the gloomy fhades
and fcenes of death, into expanfive, lucid, green,
flowery fields, expanding between retiring hills,
and turfy eminences, the rapid Tanafe gliding
through, as a vaft ferpent rulhing after his prey.

My winding path now leads me again over the
crreen fields into the meadows, fometimes vifiting

to

* At this place was fought a bloody and decifive battle between thefe In-
dians and the Carolinians, under the conduit of general Middleton, when a
great number of Cherokee warriors were flam, which fliook their power,
terrified and humbled them, infomuch that they deferted moll of their Jet-
tlemcnts in the low countries, and betook thcmfelves to the mountains as
lefs accefiible to the regular forces of the white people.

the

NORTH AMERICA. 347

the decorated banks of the river, as it meanders
through the meadows, or boldly fweeps along the
bafes of the mountains, its furface receiving the
images reflefted from the flowery banks above.

Thus was my agreeable progrefs for about fif-
teen miles, fince I came upon the fources of the
Tanafe, at the head of this charming vale: in the
evening efpying a human habitation at the foot of
the doping green hills, beneath lofty forefts of the
mountains on the left hand, and at the fame time
obferving a man eroding the river from the oppo-
fite fhore in a canoe and coming towards me, I wait-
ed his approach, who hailing me, I anfwered I was
for Cowe ; he intreated me very civilly to call at
his houfe, adding that he would prefently come to
me.

I was received and entertained here until next
day with the molt perfect civility. After I had
dined, towards evening, a company of Indian girls,
inhabitants of a village in the hills at a fmall dis-
tance, called, having bafkets of ftrawberries ; and
this man, who kept here a trading houfe, being
married to a Cherokee woman of family, was in-
dulged to keep a ftock of cattle, and his helpmate
being an excellent houfe-wife and a very agreeable
good woman, treated us with cream and ftraw-
berries.

Next morning after breakfafting on excellent
coflee, relifhed with bucanned venifon, hot corn
cakes, excellent butter and cheefe, fat forwards a-
gain for Cowe, which was about fifteen miles dis-
tance, keeping the trading path which courfed
through the low lands between the hills and the ri-
ver, now fpacious and well beaten by travellers,

4' but

TRAVELS IV

34S

but fomewhat intricate to a Granger, from the fre-
quent collateral roads falling into it from villages
or towns over the. hills. After riding about four
miles, moftly through fields and plantations, the
foil incredibly fertile, arrived at the town of E-
choe, confifting of many good houfes, well in-
habited. I patted through, and continued three
miles farther to Nucafle, and three miles more
brought me to Whatoga. Riding through this
large town, the road carried me winding about
through their little plantations of Corn, Beans, &c.
up to the council-houfe, which was a very large
dome or rotunda, fituated on the top of an ancient
artificial mount, and here my road terminated.
All before me and on every fide, appeared little
plantations ofyoungCorn, Beans, &c. divided from
each other by narrow ftrips or borders of grafs,
which marked the bounds of each one’s property,
their habitation Handing in the midft. Finding no
common high road to lead me through the town,
I was now at a Hand how to proceed farther; when
obferving an Indian man at the door of his habita-
tion, three or four hundred yards diftance from me,
beckoning me to come to him, I ventured to ride
through their lots, being careful to do no injury to
the young plants, the rifing hopes of their labour
and induftry ; eroded a little grafly vale watered by
a filver dream, which gently undulated through ;
then atcended a green hill to the houfe, where I
was chearfully welcomed at the door, and led in by
the chief, giving the care of my horfe to two hand-
fome youths, his fons. During my continuance
here, about half an hour, I experienced the moft
perfeft and agreeable hofpitality conferred on me
by thefe happy people; I mean happy in their dil*-
pofitions, in their apprehenfions of rectitude with
* regard

NORTH AMERICA.

349

regard to our focial or moral conduft. O divine
fimplicity and truth, friendfhip without fallacy or
guile, hofpitality difinterefted, native, undefiled,
unmodifyed by artificial refinements !

My venerable hoft gracefully and with an air of
refpedt, led me into an airy, cool apartment ; where
being feated on cabins, his women brought in a re-
frelhing repaft, confifting of fodden venifon, hot
corn cakes, &c. with a pleafant cooling liquor made
of hommony well boiled, mixed afterwards with
milk; this is ferved up either before or after eat-
ing in a large bowl, with a very large fpoon or
ladle to fup it with.

After partaking of this fimple but healthy and
liberal collation, and the dilhes cleared off, Tobac-
co and pipes were brought; and the chief filling one
of them, whole Item, about four feet long, was
lheathed in a beautiful fpeckled fnake fkin, and a-
dorned with feathers and firings of wampum, lights
it and fmoaks a few whiffs, puffing the fmoak firft
towards the fun, then to the four cardinal points,
and laftly over my breafl, hands it towards me,
which I cheerfully received from him and fmoak-
ed; when we fell into converfation. He firft en-
quired if I came from Charlefton ? if I knew John
Stewart, Efq. how long fince I left Charlefton ? &c.
Having fatisfied him in my anfwers in the beft
manner I could, he was greatly pleafed; which I
was convinced of by his attention to me, his cheer-
ful manners, and his ordering my horfe a plentiful
bait of corn, which laft inftance of refpedt is con-
ferred on thofe only to whom they manifeft the
higheft efteem, faying that corn was given by the
Great Spirit only for food to man.

TRAVELS IN

35°

I acquainted this ancient prince and patriarch
with the nature and defign of my peregrinations,
and that I was now for Cowe, but having loft my
road in the town, requefted that I might be in-
formed. Pie cheerfully replied, that he was pleafed
I was come in their country, where I fhould meet
with friendlhip and protection, and that he would
himfelf lead me into the right path.

After ordering my horfe to the door, we went
forth together, he on foot, and I leading my horfe
by the bridle; thus walking together near two miles,
we fhook hands and parted, he returning home,
and I continuing my journey for Cowe.

This prince is the chief of Whatoga, a man
univerfally beloved, and particularly efteemed by
the whites for his pacific and equitable difpofition,
and revered by all for his exemplary virtues, juft,
moderate, magnanimous and intrepid.

He was tall and perfectly formed ; his counte-
nance cheerful and lofty, and at the fame time truly
charafteriftic of the red men, that is, the brow
ferocious, and the eye aflive, piercing or fiery, as
an eagle. He appeared to be about fixty years of
age, yet upright and mufcular, and his limbs aCtive
as youth.

After leaving my princely friend, I travelled
about five miles through old plantations, now under
grafs, but which appeared to have been planted the
iaft feafon ; the foil exceeding fertile, loofe, black,
deep and fat. I arrived at Cowe about noon. This
fettlement is efteemed the capital town : it is firu-
ated on the bafes of the hills on both fides of the
river,nearto its bank, and here terminates the great

NORTH AMERICA.

351

vale of Cowe, exhibiting one of the moft charming
natural mountaneous landfcapes perhaps any where
to be feen ; ridges of hills rifing grand and fublimely
one above and beyond another, fome boldly and
majeftically advancing into the verdant plain, their
feet bathed with the filver flood of the Tanafe,
whilft others far diftant, veiled in blue mills, fub-
limely mounting aloft, with yet greater majelty lift
up their pompous crells, and overlook vail re-
gions.

The vale is clofed at Cowe by a ridge of mighty
hills, called the Jore mountain, faid to be the highell
land in the Cherokee country, which crolfes the
Tanafe here.

On my arrival at this town I waited on the gen-
tlemen to whom I was recommended by .letter,
and was received with relpedl and every demonftra-
tion of hofpitality and friendlhip.

I took my refidence with Mr. Galahan the
chief trader here, an ancient refpedtable man, who
had been many years a trader in this country, and
is efteemedand beloved by the Indians for his hu-
manity, probity and equitable dealings with them ;
which, to be juft and candid I am obliged to ob-
ferve (and blufh for my countrymen at the recital)
is fome what of a prodigy ; as it is a faft, I am
afraid too true, that the white traders in their com-
merce with the Indians, get great and frequent oc-
cafions of complaint of their dilhonefty and vio-
lence : but yet there are few exceptions, as in the
conduct of this gentleman, who furnillies a living
inftance of the truth of the old proveib, that “ Ho-
nefty is the bell policy;” for this old honeft Hiber-
nian has often been protected by the Indians, when

all *

TRAVELS Iff

35-

all others round about him have been ruined, their
property feized and themfelves driven out of the
country or (lain by the injured, provoked natives.

Next day after my arrival I eroded the river in
a canoe, on a vifit to a trader who redded amongft

the habitations on the other fhore.

•*

After dinner, on his mentioning fome curious
feenes amongft the hills, fome miles diftance from
the river, we agreed to fpend the afternoon in ob-
lervations on the mountains.

After riding near two miles through Indian plan-
tations of Corn, which was well cultivated, kept
clean of weeds, and was well advanced, being near
eighteen inches in height, and the Beans planted at
the Corn-hills were above ground; we left the
fields on our right, turning towards the mountains,
and afeending through a delightful green vale or
lawn, which conduced us in amongft the pyrami-
dal hills, and crofting a brifk flowing creek, mean-
dering through the meads, which contiued near
two miles, dividing and branching in amongft the
hills. We then mounted their fteep afeents, riling
gradually by ridges or fteps one above another, fre-
quently crofting narrow fertile dales as we afeend-
ed : the air felt cool and animating, being charg-
ed with the fragrant breath of the mountain beau-
ties, the blooming mountain clufter Rofe, blulhing
Rhododendron and fair Lilly of the valley. Hav-
ing now attained the fummit of this very elevated
ridge, we enjoyed a fine profpe6l indeed ; the en-
chanting Vale of Keowe, perhaps as celebrated
for fertility, fruitfulnefs and beautiful proipeifts as
the Fields of Pharfalia or the Vale of Tempe ; the
town, the elevated peeks of the Jore mountains, a

very

NORTi-I AMERICA.

353

very diflant profpedt of the Jore village in a beau-
tiful lawn, lifted up many thoufand feet higher than
our prefent fituation, befides a view of many other
villages and fettlements on the Tides of the moun-^
tains, at various diftances and elevations ; the filver
rivulets gliding by them, and fnow white catarafls
glimmering on the Tides of the lofty hills j the'
bold promontories of the Jore mountain Hepping
into the Tanafe river, whilft his foaming waters
rufhed between them.

After viewing this very entertaining Scene* we
began to defcen'd the mountain on the other fide,
which exhibited the fame order of gradations of
ridges and vales as on our afcent ; and at length
relied on a very expand ve, fertile plain, amidfl the
towering hills, over which we rode a longtime,
through magnificent high forells, extenfive green
fields, meadows and lawns. Here had formerly
been a very flourilhing Settlement; but the Indians
deferted it in fearch of frefh planting land, which
they foon found in a rich vale but a few miles dis-
tance over a ridge of hills. Soon after entering on
thefe charming, fequeftered, prolific fields," we came
to a fine little river, which eroding, and riding over
fruitful flrawberry beds and green lawns, on the
Sides of a circular ridge of hills in front of us, and
going round the bafes of this promontory, came to
a fine meadow on an arm of the vale, through which
meandered a brook, its humid vapours bedewing the
fragrant flrawberries which hung in heavy red cluf-
ters over the grafTy verge. We eroded the rivulet;
then ridng a doping, green, turfy afcent, alighted
on the borders of a grand foreft of {lately trees,
which we penetrated on foot a little diflance to a
horfe-flamp, where was a large Squadron of thofe

A a ufeful

354

TRAVELS IX

ufeful creatures, belonging to my friend and com-
panion, the trader, on the fight of whom they af-
iembled together from all quarters; iome at a dif-
tance faluted him with fhrill neighings of gratitude,
or came prancing up to lick the fait out of his
hand, whilft the younger and more timorous came
galloping onward, but coyly wheeled off, and fetch-
ing a circuit flood aloof; but as foon as their lord
and mafler ftrewed the cryftaline falty bait on the
hard beaten ground, they all, old and young, docile
and timorous, foon formed themfelves in ranks and
fell to licking up the delicious morfel.

It was a fine fight ; more beautiful creatures I
never faw ; there were of them of all colours, fi-
zes and difpofitions. Every year, as they become
of age, he fends off a troop of them down to
Charleflon, where they are fold to the higheft bid-
der.

Having paid our attention to this ufeful part of
the creation, who, if they are under our dominion,
have confequently a right to our protedlion and fa-
vour, we returned to our trufty fervants that
were regaling themfelves in the exuberant fweet
paftures and ft rawberry fields in light, and mounted
again. Proceeding on our return to town, continued
through part of this high foreft fkirting on the
meadows: began to afcend the hills of a ridge which
we were under the neceffity of croffing; and having
gained its fummit, enjoyed a moft enchanting view;
a vaft expanfe of green meadows and ftrawberry
fields ; a meandering river gliding through, falut-
ing in its various turnings the fwelling, green, turfy
knolls, embellifhed with parterres of flowers and
fruitful ftrawberry beds ; flocks of turkies ftrolling
about them ; herds of deer prancing in the meads

or

NOS.TH AMERICA. 355

I ,T

6r bounding over the hills ; companies of young,
innocent Cherokee virgins, fome bufy gathering
the rich fragrant fruit, others having already filled
their bafkets, lay reclined under the (hade of flori-
ferous and fragrant native bowers of Magnolia, A-
zalea, Philadelphus, perfumed Calycanthus, fweet
Yellow Jeflamine and cerulean Glycine frutefcens,
difclofing their beauties to the fluttering breeze,
and bathing their limbs in the cool fleeting ftreams;
whilfl other parties more gay and libertine, were
yet collecting ftrawberries, or wantonly chafing their
companions, tantalifing them, ftaining their lips
and cheeks with the rich fruit.

The fylvan fcene of primitive innocence was en-
chanting, and perhaps too enticing for hearty young
men long to continue idle fpe&ators.

In fine, nature prevailing over reafon, we wifh-
ed at leaft to have a more active part in their deli-
cious Iports. Thus precipitately refolving, we cau-
tioufly made our approaches, yet undifcovered, al-
moft to the joyous fcene of action. Now, although
we meant no other than an innocent frolic with this
gay affembly of hamadryades, we fhall leave it to
the perfon of feeling and fenfibility to form an idea
to what lengths our paffions might have hurried us,
thus warmed and excited, had it not been for the
vigilance and care of fome envious matrons who
lay in ambufh, and efpyingus, gave the alarm, time
enough for the nymphs to rally and aflemble toge-
ther. We however purfued and gained ground on a
group of them, who had incautioufly itrolled to a
greater diftance from their guardians, and finding
their retreat now like to be cut off, took fhelter
under cover of a little grove ■, but on perceiving
rhemfelves to be difcovered by us, kept their fta-

A a 2 tion

TRAVELS IN

356

tion, peeping through the butties ; when obferving
our approaches, they confidently difcovered them-
felves, and decently advanced to meet us, half un-
veiling their blooming faces, incarnated with the
modefl: maiden blufli, and with native innocence
and cheerfulnefs, presented their little bafkets, mer-
rily telling us their fruit was ripe and found.

We accepted abafket, fat down and regaled our-
felves on the delicious fruit, encircled by the whole
aflembly of the innocent jocofe fylvan nymphs :
by this time the feveral parties, under the condudt
of the elder matrons, had difpofed themfelves in
companies on die green, turfy banks.

My young companion, the trader, by concefiions
and fuitable apologies for the bold intrufion, hav-
ing compromifed the matter with them, engaged
them to bring their collections to his houfe at a fti-
pulated price : we parted friendly.

And now taking leave of thefe Elyfian fields, we
again mounted the hills, which we crofled, and
traverfing obliquely their flowery beds, arrived in
town in the cool of the evening.

CHAP.

JJ0RTH AMERICA.

CHAP. IV.

After waiting two days at Cowe expelling a
guide and protestor to the Overhill towns, and at
lafl being difappointed, I refolved to purfue the
journey alone, though againft the advice of the
traders ; the Overhill Indians being in an ill humour
with the whites, in confequence of fome late fkir-
inifhes between them and the frontier Virginians,
moll: of the Overhill traders having left the nation.

Early in the morning I fat off attended by my
worthy old friend Mr. Gallahan, who obligingly ac-
companied me near fifteen miles. We palled through
the Jore village, which is pleafingly fituated in a
little vale on the fide of the mountain ; a pretty ri-
vulet or creek winds about through 'the vale, juft
under the village : here I obferved a little grove
of the Cafine yapon, which was the only place where
I had feen it grow in the Cherokee country ; the In-
dians call it the beloved tree, and are very careful
to keep it pruned and cultivated: they drink a
very fhong infufion of the leaves, buds and tender
branches of this plant, which is fo celebrated, in-
deed venerated by the Creeks and all the Southern
maritime nations of Indians. We then continued
travelling down the vale about two miles, the road
deviating, turning and winding about the hills and
through groves in lawns watered by brooks and
rmilets, rapidly rufhing.from the towering hill on
A a 3 every

TRAVELS IN

3S$

every fide, and flowing into the Jore, which is a
confiderable branch of the Tanafe.

Began now to afeend the mountain, following a
imall arm or branch of the vale, which led to a gap
or narrow defile, comprefled by the high pending
hills on each fide, down which came rapidly a con-
fiderable branch of the Jore, dalhing and roaring
over rocky precipices.

Now jeaving Roaring creej< on our right, anc|
accorpplilhing two or three afeents or ridges, an-
other branch of the trading path from the Overhills
to Cowe came in on our right, and here my tran—
fitory companion Mr. Galahan parted from me,
taking tliis road back to Cowe ; when I was left a-
gain wandering alone in the dreary mountains, not
indeed totally pathlefs, nor in my prefent fituation
entirely agreeable, although fuch feenes of primi-
tive unmodified nature always pleafed me.

May we fuppofe that mankind feel in their hearts
a predilection for the fociety of each other or are
we delighted with feenes of human arts and culti-
vation, where the paffions are flattered and enter-
tained with variety of objeCts for gratification ?

I found myfelf unable, notwithftanding the at-
tentive admonitions and perluafive arguments of
reafon, entirely to erafe from my mind, thofe im-
prefiions which I had received from the fociety of
the amiable and polite inhabitants of Charlefton j
and I could not help comparing my prefent fituation
in fome degree to Nebuchadnezzar’s, when expelled
from the fociety of men, and conftrained to roam
in the mountains and wildernefs, there to herd and
feed with the wild beafts of the forefts.

Aftef

NORTH AMERICA.

359

After parting with my late companion, I went
forward with all the alacrity that prudence would
admit of, that I might as foon as poffible fee the
end of my toil and hazard, being determined at
all events to crofs the Jore mountains faid to be the
higheft land in the Cherokee country.

After a gentle defcent, I entered on an extremely
ftony narrow vale, through which coafted fwiftly a
large creek, twelve or fifteen yards wide, roaring
oyer a rocky bed, which I crofted with difficulty
and danger, the ford being incommoded by ftiel-
vjng rocks, full of holes and cliffs. After leaving
this^ rocky creek, my path led me upon another
narrow vale or glade, down which came in great
hafte another noify brook, which I repeatedly croff-
ed and recroffed, fometimes riding on narrow level
graffy verges clofe to its banks ; (till alcending, the
vale gradually terminated, being fhut up by ftu-
pendous rocky hills on each fide, leaving a very
narrow gap or defile, towards which my road led
me, afcending the fteep fides of the mountains ;
when, after rifing feveral wearilbme alcents, and
finding myfelf over-heated and tired, I halted at a
little graffy lawn through which meandered a fweet
rivulet. Here I turned my horfe to graze, and fat
down to reft on a green bank juft beneath a high
frowning promontory, or obtufe point of a ridge
of the mountain yet above me, the friendly rivulet
making a circuit by my feet and now a little reft-
ed, I took out of my wallet fome bifcuit and cheefe,
and a peace of neat’s tongue, compofing myfelf to
eafe and refrefhment : v/hen fuddenly appeared
within a few yards, advancing towards me from
behind the point, a ftout likely young Indian fellow,
gfmed with a rifle gun, and two dogs attending.

A a 4 Upon

TRAVELS IN

360

Upon fight of me he flood, and feemed a little furpri-
fed, as I was very much ; but inflantly recolledling
himfelfand affuming a countenance of benignity and
cheerfulnefs, he came brifkly to me and fhook hands
heartily, and fmilingly inquired from whence I
came, and whither going; but fpeaking only in the
Cherokee tongue, our converfation was not conti-
tinucd to a great length. I prefented him with fome
choice Tobacco, which was accepted with courtefy
and evident pleafure, and to my inquiries concern-
ing the roads and diflance to the Overhill towns, he
anfwered me with perfect cheerfulnefs and good
temper. We then again fhook hands and parted in
friendfhip ; he defcended the hills, finging as he went.

Of vegetable produdtions obferved in this region,
were the following viz. Acer flriatum, Ac. rubrum,
Juglans nigra, Jug. alba, Jug. Hiccory, Magnolia
acuminata, Quercus alba, tindloria, rubra,
Q^prinus, with the other varieties common in Vir-
ginia : Panax ginfeng, Angelica lucida, Convallaria
majalis, Halefia, Stewartia, Styrax, Staphylea, Evo-
nimus, Viburnum, Cornus Florida, Betula nigra,
Morus, Tilia, Ulmus, Fraxinus, Hopea tindloria,
Annona, Bignonia fempervirens, Ariftolochia frute-
fcens, Bignonia radicans, &c. Being now refrefh-
ed by a fimple but healthy meal, I began again to
afcend the Jore mountains, which I at length ac-
complifhed, and refted on the moll elevated peak ;
from whence I beheld with rapture and aftonifh-
ment a fublimely awful fcene of power and mag-
nificence, a world of mountains piled upon moun-
tains. Having contemplated this amazing profpedt
of grandeur, I defcended the pinnacles, and again
falling into the trading path, continued gently de-
fending through a gralfy plain, fcatteringly planted

NORTH AMERICA.

36 r

ttith large trees, and at a diftance furronnded with
hi ah forefts. I was on this elevated region fenfible
ofan alteration in the air, from warm to cold, and
found that vegetation was here greatly behind, in
plants of the fame kind of the country below ; for
inftance, when I left Charlefton, the yellow Jafmine
was rather - paft the blooming days, and here the
buds were juft beginning to fwell, though fome were
in bloom. Continued more than a mile through
this elevated plain to the pitch of the mountain,
from whence prefented to view an expanfive pro-
fpedt, exhibiting fccnes of mountainous landfcape,
weftward, vaft and varied, perhaps not to be ex-
ceeded any where.

My firft defcent and progrefs down the weft fide
of the mountain was remarkably gradual, ealy and
pleafant, through graffy open forefts for the diftance
of two or three miles-; when my changeable path
ftlddenly turned round an obtufe point of a ridge,
and defcended precipitately down a fteep rocky hill
for a mile or more, which was very troublefome,
being incommoded with fhattered fragments of the
mountains, and in other places with boggy finks,
occafioned by oozy fprings and rills ftagnate finking
in micaceous earth : fome of thefe fteep foft rocky
banks or precipices feem to be continually crum-
bling to earth ; and in thefe mouldering cliffs I dis-
covered veins or ftrata of moft pure and clear white
earth*, having a faint bluifh or pearl colour gleam,
fomewhat exhibiting the appearance of the little
cliffs or wavy crefts of new fallen fnowdrifts ; we
likewife obferve in thefe diffolving rocky cliffs,veins
of ifinglafs (Mica S. vitrum Mufcoviticum), fome

* Micanitida: fpecimens of this earth have been exported to England,
for the purpofe of making Porcelain or China ware.

of

travels in

362

of the flakes or laminae incredibly large, entire and
tranfparent, and would ferve the purpofe of lights
for windows very well, or for lanthorns ; and here
appeared ftrata of black lead (ftibium).

At length, after much toil and exercife, I was a
little relieved by a narrow grafly vale or lawn at the
foot of this fteep defcent, through which courfed
along a confiderable rapid brook, on whofe banks
grew in great perfedtion the glorious Magnolia
auriculata, together with the other confpicuous
flowering and aromatic Ihrubs already mentioned j
and I obferved here in the rich bottoms near the
creek, a new fpecies of Hydraftis, having very
large finuated leaves and white flowers ; after this
I continued feveral miles over ridges and grafly
vales, watered with delightful rivulets.

Next day proceeding on eight or ten miles,
generally through fpacious high forefts and flowery
lawns ; the foil prolific, being of an excellent qua-
lity for agriculture ; came near the banks of a large
creek or river, where this high forefi: ended on my
left hand, the trees became more fcattered and in-
fenfibly united with a grafly glade or lawn border-
ing on the river on the oppofite bank of which
appeared a very extenfive foreft, confifting entirely
of the Hemlock fpruce (P. abies), almoft encircled
by diftant ridges of lofty hills,

Soon after crofling this large branch of the Ta-
nafe, I obferved, defcending the heights at fome
diltance, a company of Indians, all well mounted
on horfe back j they came rapidly forward : on
their nearer approach 1 obferved a chief at the head
of the carravan, and apprehending him to be the
Little Carpenter, emperor or grand chief of thq

Cherokee?,

NORTH AMERICA. 3&3

CHerokees, as they came up I turned off from the
path to make way, in token of refpedt, which com-
pliment was accepted, and gratefully and magnani-
moufly returned ; for his highnefs with a gracious
and cheerful fmile came up to me, and clapping his
hand on his breaft, offered it to me, faying, I am
Ata-cul-culla ; and heartily {hook hands with me,
and afked me if I knew it. I anfwered, that the
Good Spirit who goes before me fpoke to me, and
faid, that is the great Ata-cul-culla ; and added,
that I was of the tribe of white men, of Pennfylva-
nia, who efteem themfelves brothers and friends to
the red men, but particularly fo to the Cherokees,
and that notwithftanding we dwelt at fo great a dif-
tance, we were united in love and friendfhip, and
that the name of Ata-cul-culla was dear to his
white brothers of Pennfylvania.

After this compliment, which feemed to be ac-
ceptable, he inquired if I came lately from Char-
leston, and if John Stewart was well, faying that he
was going to fee him. I replied, that I came lately
from Charlefton on a friendly vifit to the Chero-
kees ; that I had the honour of a perfonal acquain-
tance with the fuperintendant, the beloved man,
whom, I faw well but the day before 1 fet off, and
who, by letters to the principal white men in the
nation, recommended me to the friendfhip and
proteftion of the Cherokees. To which the great
chief was pleafed to anfwer very refpedtfully, that I
was welcome in their country as a friend and bro-
ther ; and then fhaking hands heartily bid me fare-
wel, and his retinue confirmed it by an united voice
of affent. After giving my name to the chief, re-
questing my compliments to the fuperintendant,
fhe emperor moved, continuing his journey for

Charlefton $

TRAVELS IN

36 4

Charlefton; and I, yet perfifting in my intention of
vifiting the Overhill towns, continued on. Leaving
the great foreft I mounted the high hills, defcending
them again on the other fide, and fo on repeatedly
for feveral miles, without obferving any variation
in the natural productions fince palling the Jore :
and perceiving the flow progrefs of vegetation in
this mountainous, high country; and, upon ferious
confideration, it appearing very plainly that I could
not, with entire lafety, range the Overhill fettle-
ments until the treaty was over, which -would not
come on till late in June ; I fuddenly came to a
refolution to defer thefe refearches at this time, and
leave them for the employment of another feafon
and more favourable opportunity, and return to
Dartmouth in Georgia, to be ready to join a com-
pany of adventurers who were to fet off in July for
Mobile in Weft Florida. The leader of this com-
pany had been recommended to me as a fit perfon
to aflift me on fo long and hazardous a journey,
through the vaft territories of the Creeks.

Therefore next day I turned about on my return,
proceeding moderately, being engaged in noting
fuch objeCts as appeared to be of any moment, and
collecting fpecimens ; and in the evening of next
day arrived again at Cowe.

Next morning Mr. Galahan conducted me to the
chief of Cowe, who during my ablence had returned
from the chace. The remainder of this day I fpent
in obfervations in and about the town, reviewing
my fpecimens, &c.

The town of Cowe confifts of about one hundred
dwellings, near the banks of the Tanafe, on both
fides of the river.

i

The

NORTH AMERICA.

365

The Cherokees conftruft their habitations on a
different plan from the Creeks ; that is, but one
oblong four fquare building, of one ftory high; the
materials confiding of logs or trunks of trees, {trip-
ped of their bark, notched at their ends, fixed one
upon another, and afterwards plaiftered well, both
in fide and out, with clay well tempered with dry
grafs, and the whole covered or roofed with the
bark of the chefnut tree or long broad lhingles.
This building is however partitioned tranfverfely,
forming three apartments, which communicate with
each other by infide doors ; each houfe or habita-
tion has befides a little conical houfo, covered with
dirt, which is called the winter or hot-houfe ; this
{lands a few yards diftance from the manfion-houfe
oppofite the front door.

The council or town-houfe is a large rotunda,
capable of accommodating feveral hundred people:
it {lands on the top of an ancient artificial mount of
earth, of about twenty feet perpendicular, and the
rotunda on the top of it being above thirty feet
more, gives the whole fabric an elevation of about
fixty feet from the common furface of the around
But it may be proper to obferve, that this mount
on which the rotunda Hands, is of a much ancienter
date than the building, and perhaps was raifed for
another purpofe. The Cherokees themfelves are
as ignorant as we are, by what people or for what
purpofe thefe artificial hills were raifed; they have
various {lories concerning them, the beft of which
amount to no more than mere conjecture, and
leave us entirely in the dark ; but they have a tra-
dition connmon with the other nations of Indians
hat they found them in much the fame condition
as they now appear, when their forefathers arrived

from

TRAVELS IN

366

from the Weft and poflefledthemfelves of the coun-
try, after vanquifhing the nations of red men who
then inhabited it,who themfelves found thefe mounts
when they took pofieflion of the country, the former
pofleffors delivering the fame ftory concerning
them : perhaps they were defigned and apropri-
ated by the people who conftrutted them, to fome
religious purpofe, as great altars and temples fimi-
lar °o the high places and facred groves anciently
amongft the Canaanites and other nations of I ale-
ftine and Judea.

The rotunda is conftrufted after the following
manner: they firft fix in the ground a circular
range of pofts or trunks of trees, about fix feet
high, at equal diftances, which are notched at top,
to receive into them from one to another, a range
of beams or wall plates ; within this is another cir-
cular order of very large and ftrong pillars, above
twelve feet high, notched in like manner at top, to
receive another range of wall plates ; and within
this is yet another or third range of ftronger and
hio-her pillars, but fewer in number, and lfanding
at a greater diftance from each other ; and laftly,
in the centre ftands a very ftrong pillar, which forms
the pinnacle of the building, and to which the raf-
ters centre at top ; thefe rafters are lengthened
and bound together by crofs beams and laths, which
fuftain the roof or covering, which is a layer of
bark neatly placed, and tight enough to exclude
the rain, and fometimes they call a thin fuperficies
of earth over all. There is but one large door,
which ferves at the fame time to admit light from
without and the fmoak to elcape when a hre is
kindied ; but as there is but a imall fire kept, lu -
ficient to give light at night, and that fed with dry

NORTH AMERICA.

frnall found wood diverted of its bark, there is but
little fmoak All around the infide of the building
etwixt the fecond range of pillars and the wall, is
a range of cabins or fophas, confifting of two or
t ree Heps, one above or behind the other, in the-
atrical order, where the affembly fit or lean down;

. lopbas are covered with mats or carpets, verv
cunoufly made of thin fplints ofAfh or Oak, woven
or platted together; near the great pillar in the
centre the fire is kindled for light, near which the
uficians feat themfelves, and round about this the
^hrTi? ex,hlbitLthfir dai*es and other Ihows at

rtroughoutTheVlar PPC" aIm°ft ^ ^

About the clofe of the evening I accompanied
Mr. Galahan and other white traders to the rotun-
da where was a grand feftival, mufic and dancino-

£Vplfv danceTh- held P™dPa11^ to rehearfe the
oall-pJay dance, this town being challenged to olav

againft another the next day.. G P 7

andTltPm?rIe bCin! affembled and feated in order

manly exercife^f rhf’h ll C(Jmmendatlon of the

This oration was delivered with crept- iv v j
d0quence> and ™ to influen^rie^ffiont

3 of

TRAVELS IN

368

of the young men prefent, excite them to emula-
tion, and infpire them with ambition.

This prologue being at an end, the muficians
began, both vocal and inftrumental; when prefently
a company of girls, hand in hand, drafted in clean
white robes and ornamented with beads, bracelets
and a profufion of gay ribbands, entering the door,
immediately began to fing their refponfes in a gen-
tle, low, and fweet voice, and formed themlelves
in a femicircular file or line, in two ranks, back to
back, facing the fpedtators and muficians, moving
flowly round and round. This continued about a
quarter of an hour, when we were furprifed by a
fudden very loud and fhrill whoop, uttered at once
by a company of young fellows,who came in brifkly
after one another, with rackets or hurls in one hand.
Thefe champions likewife were well drafted, paint-
ed, and ornamented with filver bracelets, gorgets
and wampum, neatly ornamented with moccafins
and high waving plumes in their diadems *, they
immedTately formed themfelves in a femicircular
rank alfo, in front of the girls, when thefe changed
their order, and formed a fingle rank parallel to the
men, railing their voices in refponies to the tunes
of the young champions, the femicircles continually
moving round. There was fometning lingulai and
diverting in their ftep and motions,, and I imagine
not to be learned to exailnefs but with great atten-
tion and perfeverance. The ftep, if it can be fo
termed, was performed after the following manner j
fir ft, the motion began at one end of the iemicircle,
trendy rifing up and down upon their toes and
heels alternately, when the firft was up on-tip-toe,
the next began to raife the heel, and by the time
the firft refted again on the heel, the fecond was

NORTH AMERICA.

569

On tip toe, thus from one end of the rank to the
other, fo that fome were always up and fome
down, alternately and regularly, without the lead:
baulk or confufion; and they at the fame time, and
in the fame motion, moved on obliquely or Tide-
ways, fo that the circle performed a double or com-
plex motion in its progreflion, and at dated times
exhibited a grand or univerfal movement, inftantly
and unexpectedly to the fpeitators, by each rank
turning to right and left, taking each others places:
the movements were managed with inconceivable
alertnefs and addrefs, and accompanied with an in-
ftantaneous and univerfal elevation of the voice,
and fhrill lhort whoop. '

The Cherokees, befides the ball play dance, have
a variety of others equally entertaining. The men
efpecially exercife themfelves with a variety of gef-
ticulations and capers, fome of which are ludicrous
and diverting enough ; and they have others which
are of the martial order, and others of the chace;
thefe feem to be fomewhat of a tragical nature,
wherein they exhibit aftonifhing feats of military
prowefs, rnafculine ftrength and activity. Indeed
all their dances and mufical entertainments feem to
be theatrical exhibitions or plays, varied with comic
and fometimes lafcivious interludes : the women
however conduit themfelves with a very becoming
grace and decency, infomuch that in amorous in-
terludes, when their refponfes and geftures feem
confenting to natural liberties, they veil themfelves,
juft difcovering a glance of their fparkling eyis
and blufhing faces, expreffive of fenObility.

Next morning early I fet off on my return, and
meeting with no material occurrences on the road,
in two days arrived fafe at Keowe, where I tarried

B b two

TRAVELS IN

370

two or three days, employed in augmenting ray
colledtions of fpecimens, and waiting for Mr. Ga-
lahan, who was to call on me here, to accompany
him to Sinica, where he and other traders were to
meet Mr. Cameron, the deputy commifiary, to
hold a congrefs at that town, with the chiefs of the
Lower Cherokees, to conlult preliminaries intro-
dudlory to a general congrefs and treaty with thefe
Indians, which was to be convened next June, and
held in the Overhill towns.

I obferved in the environs of Keowe, on the bales
of the rocky hills, immediately afcending from the
low grounds near the river bank, a great number of
very lingular antiquities, the work of the ancients;
they feem to me to have been altars for facrifice or
fepulchres : they were conftrudted of four flat Hones,
two fet on an edge for the fldes, one clofed one
end, and a very large flat one lay horizontally at
top, fo that the other end was open ; this fabric was
four or five feet in length, two feet high, and three
in width. I inquired of the trader what they were,
who could not tell me certainly, but fuppofed them
to be ancient Indian ovens; the Indians can give no
account of them : they are on the furface or the
ground and are of different dimenfions.

I accompanied the traders to Sinica, where we
found the commiflfary and the Indian chiefs con-
vened in counfel : continued at Smica fometime,
employing myfelf in obfervations, and making ; col-
leftions of every thing worthy of notice : and find-
ing the Indians to be yet unfettled in their determi-
nation, and not in a good humour, I abandoned
the proiedt of vifiting the regions beyond the Che-
rokee mountains for this feafon ; fet off foi my 1 e-
turn to fort James, Dartmouth, lodged this night

NORTH AMERICA. 371

in the forefts near the banks of a delightful large
creek, a branch of Keowe river, and next dav ar-
rived fafe at Dartmouth. X

Lift of the towns and villages in the Cherokee na-
tion inhabited at this day, vizi

No.

1 Echoe

2 Nucafte

3 Whatoga

4

Cowe

5 Ticoloofa

6 Jore

7 Conifda

8 No we

I

l

On the Tanafe Eaft of
the Jore mountains.

4 towns.

Inland on the branches
of the T anafe.

4 towns.

9 Tomothle

10 Noewe

11 Tellico

12 Clennufe

13 Ocunnolufte

14 Chewe

15 Quanufe

16 Tellowe

1

I On the Tanafe over the
J. Jore mountains.

8 towns

17 Tellico

18 Chatuga

1 9 Hiwafle j,

20 Chewafe

21 Nuanha

22 Tallafe

23 Chelowe

24 Sette 4

25 Chote great

26 Joco

27 Tahafie

Inland towns on the
branches of the Tanafe
und other Waters over
the Jore mountains.

5 towns.

Overhill towns on the
Tanafe or Cherokee
river.

6 towns j

TRAVELS IN

372

28 Tamahle 1 Overhill towns on the
Tufkege | Tanafe or Cherokee

jo . Biglfland l river.

31 Nilaque f 5 towns-

32 Niowe

Lower towns Eaft of the mountains, viz.

No. 1 Sinica 1

2 Keowe i On the Savanna or

3 Kulfage J Keowe river.

4 Tugilo

5 Eftotowe

6 Qualatche
y Chote

On Tugilo river.

On Flint river.

Towns on the waters of other rivers.
Eftotowe great. Allagae. Jore. Nae oche.
In all forty-three towns.

CHAP,

NORTH AMERICA.

3,73

CHAP. V.

Being returned from the Cherokee country to
Dartmouth, I underftood that the company of ad-
venturers for Weft Florida were very forward in
their preparations, and would be ready to fet off in
a few weeks, fo that I had but a little time allowed
me to make provifion and equip myfelf for the
profecution of fo long and hazardous a journey.

Our place of rendezvous was at fort Charlotte,
on the oppofite fide of the river Savanna, and
about a mile from fort James. I had a defire to
make little botanical excurfions towards the head
of Broad river, in order to collect fome curiofities
which I had obferved thereabouts ; which being
accomplilhed,

June lid fet out from fort Charlotte in company
with Mr. Whitfield, who was chief of our caravan.
We travelled about twenty miles, and lodged at the
farm of Monf. St. Pierre, a French gentleman, who
received and entertained us with great politenefs
and hofpitality. The manfion-houfe is fituated on
the top of a very high hill near the banks of the
river Savanna, overlooking his very extenfive
and well cultivated plantationsof Indian Corn (Zea)
Rice, Wheat, Oats, Indigo, Convolvulus Batata,&c.
thefe are rich low lands, lying very level betwixt
Thefe natural heights and the river ■, his gardens
occupy the gende defcent on one fide of the mount,
and a very thriving vineyard confifting of about
five acres is on the other fide.

B b 3

Next

3/4 TRAVELS IK

Next morning after breakfaft we fet off again,
continuing nine or ten miles farther down the river,
when we flopped at a plantation, the property of
one of our companions, where we were joined by
the reft of the company. After dining here we
prepared to depart; and the gentleman of the hotife
taking an affectionate leave of his wife and chil-
dren, we fat off again, and proceeding fix miles
farther down the river, we crofted over into Georgia,
taking a road which led us into the great trading
path from Augufta to the Creek nation. As the
foil, fttuation and productions of thefe parts, for
feveral days journey, differ very little from the
Northern diftrits of Georgia, already recited, when
on the furvey of the New Purchafe, I apprehend it
needlefs to enter again into a detail of particulars,
ftnce it would produce but little more than a re-
capitulation of that journey.

Early in the evening of the 27th we arrived at
the Flat-rock, where we lodged. This is a com-
mon rendezvous or camping place for traders and
Indians. It is an expanfive clean flat or horizontal
rock, but a little above the furface of the ground',
and near the banks of a delightful rivulet of excel-
lent water, which is one of the head branches of Great
Ogeche : in the loofe rich foil verging round this
rock, grew feveral very curious herbaceous plants,
particularly one of Angular elegance and beauty,
which I take to be a fpecies of Ipomea (Ipomea,
caule eredto, ramofo, tripedali, fol. radicalibus,pin-
natifidis, linearibus, humi-ftratis, florib. incarnatis
intus maculis coccineis adfperfo). It grows ere<5t,
three feet high, with a ftrong ftem, which is deco-
rated with plumed or pinnatifid linear leaves,
foipewhat refembling thofe of the Delphinium or

Ipomea

NORTH AMERICA.

375

Ipomea quamoclit ; from about one half its length
upwards,, it fends out on all fides, afcendant branches
which divide again and again ; thefe terminate with
large tubular or funnel-formed flowers ; their limbs
equally divided into five fegments ; thefe beautiful
flowers are of a perfedt rofe colour, elegantly be-
fprinkled on the infide of their petals with crimfon
fpecks the flowers are in great abundance, and
together with the branches and delicately fine cut
leaves, compofe a conical fpilce or compound pan-
nicle. I faw a fpecies of this plant, if not the very
fame, growing on the fea coaft iflands near St. Au-
guftine. The blue flowered Malva and Delphinium
were its aflfociates about the Flat-rock.

There are extenfive cane brakes or cane mea-
dows fpread abroad round about, which afford the
moft acceptable and nourifhing food for cattle.

This evening two companies of Indian traders
from Augufla arrived and encamped near us ; and
as they were bound to the Nation, we concluded to
unite in company with them, they generoufly offer-
ing us their affiftance, having many fpare horfes and
others lightly loaded, feveral of ours by this time
being jaded : this was a favourable opportunity of
relief in cafe of neceffity.

Next morning as foon as the horfes were packed
and in readinefs, we decamped and fet forward
together.

I thought it worthy of taking notice of a Angular
method the traders make ufe of to reduce the wild
young horfes to their hard duty. When any one
perfifts in refufing to receive his load, if threats, the
difcipline of the whip and other common abufe

B b 4 prove

TRAVELS JJJ

3?6

prove infufficient, after being haltered, a pack-
horfe-man catches the tip end of one of his ears be-
twixt his teeth and pinches it, when inftantly the
furious ftrong creature, trembling, Hands perfe&ly
ftill until he is loaded.

Our caravan confrfting of about twenty men and
Fixty horfes, we made a formidable appearance,
having now little to apprehend from predatory
bands or out-laws.

This day’s journey was for the moft part over
high gravelly ridges, and on the moft elevated hills,
appeared emerging out of the earth, rocky cliffs of
a dark reddilh brown colour; their compofition
feemed to be a coarfe, fandy, ferruginous concrete,
but fo firmly cemented as to conftitute a perfect hard
ftone or rock, and appeared to be excavated or worn
into cavities and furrows by the violence of thedafh-
ing billows and rapid currents of the ocean, which
heretofore probably walhed them ; there were how-
ever ftrata or veins in thefe rocks, of a finer com-
pofition and compadt confiftence, and feemed pon-
derous rich iron ore. A little depth below the
fandy gravelly furface, lies a ftratum of very com-
pact reddilh yellow clay and fragments of ochre.
The trees and fhrubs common on thefe gravelly
ridges are as follows, Diofpyros, Quercus rubra,
nigra, Q^tindtoria or great Black Oak, Q^alba,
QAobata, poll White Oak, QAncana, foliis ova-
libus integerrimis fubtus incanis, Pinus lutea,Pinus
tteda, fohis geminatis et trinis, ftrobilo ovato bre-
vi, cot tice rimofo, Pinus paluftris, foliis trinis lon-
giflimis, ftrobilo elongata, Cornus Florida, Andro-
meda arborea, Nyffa fylvatica, Juglans hiccory,
Prunus padus, &c. Of herbacere, Solidago, Eupa-

torium.

NORTH AMERICA.

377

torium, Sylphium, Rudbeckia, Gerardia, Afclepias,
Agave Virginica, Eryngium, Thapfia, Euphorbia,
Polymnia, &c.

In the courfe of this day’s journey we eroded
two confiderable rivulets, running fwiftly over rocky
beds. There is fome very good land on the gra-
dual defcents of the ridges and their bottoms bor-
dering on creeks, and very extenfive gralfy favan-
nas and cane meadows always in view on one hand
or the other. At evening we came to camp on the
banks of a beautiful creek, a branch of Great Oge-
che, called Rocky Comfort, where we found ex-
cellent accommodations, here being pleafant graf-
fy open plains to fpread our beds upon, environed
with extenfive cane meadows, affording the belt of
food for our quadrupeds. -

The next day’s journey led us over a level dif-
tridt ; the land generally very fertile and of a good
quality for agriculture, the vegetable furface being
of a dark, loofe, rich mould, on a ftratum of ftiff
reddifh brown clay. Crofling feveral confiderable
creeks, branches of the Ocone, North branch of the
Alatamaha, at evening, July i ft, encamped on the
banks of the Ocone, in a delightful grove of fored
trees, confiding of Oak, Afh, Mulberry, Hiccory,
Black Walnut, Elm, Saffafras, Gleditfia, &c. This
flounfhing grove was an appendage of the high fo-
refts we had pafied through, and projected into an
extenfive, green, open, level plain,' confiding of
old Indian fields and plantations, being the rich low
lands of the river, and dretching along its banks
upwards to a very great didance, charmingly di-
versified and decorated with detached groves and
clumps of various trees and fhrubs, and indented
on its verge by advancing and retreating promon-
tories of the high land.

4

Our

TRAVELS IN

378

Our encampment was fixed on the fite of the old
Ocone town, which, about fixty years ago, was e-
vacuated by the Indians, who, finding their fitua-
tion difagreeable from its vicinity to the white peo-
ple, left it, moving upwards into the Nation or
Upper Creeks, and there built a town ; but that fi-
liation not fuiting their roving difpofition, they
grew fickly and tired of it, and refolved to feek an
habitation more agreeable to their minds. They all
arofe, directing their migration South-Eaftward to-
wards the fea coafbj and in the courfe of their jour-
ney, obferving the delightful appearance of the ex-
tenfive plains of Alachua and the fertile hills envi-
roning it, they fat down and built a town on the
banks of a fpacious and beautiful lake, at a fmali
diftance from the plains, naming this new town,
Cufcowilla : this fituation pleafed them, the vaft
defarts, forefts, lake and favannas around, afford-
ing unbounded range of the befl hunting ground
for bear and deer, their favourite game. But al-
though this fituation was healthy and delightful to
the utmoft degree, affording them variety and
plenty of every defirable thing in their eflimation,
yet troubles and afflidlions found them out. This
territory, to the promontory of Florida, was then
claimed by the Tomocos, Utinas, Calloofas, Ya-
mafes and other remnant tribes of the ancient Flo-
ridans and the more Northern refugees, driven
away by the Carolinians, now in alliance and under
the protection of the Spaniards, who affifting them,
attacked the new fettlement and for many years
were very troublefome but the Alachuas or Oco-
nes being ftrengthened by other emigrants and
fugitive bands from the Upper Creeks, with whom
they were confederated,and who gradually eftablifhed
other towns in this low country, ftretching a line of
fettle ments acrofs the ifthmus, extending from the

1 Alatamaha

NORTH AMERICA.

319

Alatamaha to the bay of Apalache ; thefe uniting
were at length able to face their enemies and even
attack them in their own fettlements ; and in the
end, with the afliftance of the Upper Creeks, their
uncies, vanquifhed their enemies and deftroyed
them, and then fell upon the Spanilh fettlements,
which alfo they entirely broke up. But having
treated of thefe matters in the journal of my travels
into Eaft Florida, 1 end this digreflion and proceed
again on my journey.

After crofling the Ocone by fording it, which
is about two hundred and fifty yards over, we tra-
velled about twenty miles, and came to camp in the
evening ; pafle’d over a pleafant territory, prelent-
ing varying fcenes of gentle fwelling hills and le-
vels, affording fublime forefts, contrafted by expan-
five illumined green fields, native meadows and
Cane brakes; the vegetables, trees, fhrubs and
plants the fame as already noticed without any ma-
terial variation. The next day’s journey was a-
bout twenty miles, having crofted the Oakmulge
by fording it three or four hundred yards over.
This river is the main branch of the beautiful Ala-
tamaha; on the Eaft bank of the river lie the fa-
mous Oakmulge fields, where are yet confpicuous
very wonderful remains of the power and grandeur
of the ancients of this part of America, in the ruins
of a capital town and fettlement, as vaft artificial
hills, terraces, &c. already particularly mentioned
in my tour through the lower dittricts of Georgia.
The Oakmulge here is about forty miles diftance
from the Ocone, the other arm of the Alatamaha.
In the evening we came to camp near the banks of
Stony Creek, a large rapid water about fix miles
beyond the river.

Next

TRAVELS IN

330

Next day we travelled about twenty miles far-
ther, crofting two confiderable creeks named Great
and Little Tobofochte; and at evening encamped
clofe by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Wa-
ter, the glittering waving flood palling along active-
ly over a bed of pebbles and gravel. The territory
through which we pafled from the banks of the
Oakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful di-
verfified rural fcene, and promifes a happy, fruitful
and falubrious region, when cultivated by induftri-
ous inhabitants ; generally ridges of low fwelling
hills and plains fupporting grand forefls, valt Cane
meadows, favannas and verdant lawns.

I obferved here a very Angular and beautiful
fhrub, which I fuppofe is a fpecies of Hydrangia
(H. quercifolia). It grows in coppices or clumps near
or on the banks of rivers and creeks ; many items
ufually arife from a root, fpreading itfelf greatly on
all fides by fuckers or offsets the Items grow five
or fix feet high, declining or diverging from each
other, and are covered with feveral barks or rinds,
the laft of which being of a cinereous dirt colour
and very thin, at a certain age of the Items or Ihoots,
cracks through to the next bark, and is peeled off
by the winds, difcovering the under, fmooth, dark
reddifh brown bark, which alfo cracks and peels off
the next year, in like manner as the former ■, thus
every year forming a new bark ; the Items divide
regularly or oppofitely, though the branches are
crooked or wreathe about horizontally, and thefe
again divide, forming others which terminate with
large heavy panicles or thyrfi of flowers ; but
thefe flowers are of two kinds : the numerous par-
tial fpikes which compofe the panicles and confift
of a multitude of very fmall fruitful flowers, ter-
minate

PI. 6.

9

NORTH AMERICA.

33i

minate with one or more very large expanfive neu-
tral or mock flowers. Handing on a long, (lender,
ftiff peduncle ; thefe flow'ers are compofed of four
broad oval petals or fegments, of a dark role or
crimfon colour at firft, but as they become older
acquire a deeper red or purplifh hue, and laftly are
of a brown or ferruginous colour; thefe have no
perfect parts of generation of either fex, but difeo-
ver in their centre two, three or four papillae or
rudiments; thefe neutral flowers, with the whole
pannicle, are truly permanent, remaining on the
plant for years, until they dry and decay : the leaves
which clothe the plants are very large, pinnatifid
or palmated, and ferrated or toothed, very much
refembling the leaves of fome of our Oaks ; they
fit oppoflte, fupported by flender petioles, and are
of a fine, full green colour.

Next day after noon we croffed Flint river by
fording it, about two hundred and fifty yards over,
and at evening came to camp near the banks of
a large and deep creek, a branch of the Flint.
The high land excellent, affording grand forefts,
and the low ground vaft timber and Canes of great
height and thicknefs, Arundo gigantea. I obferv-
ed growing on the fteep dry banks of this creek, a
fpecies of fhrub Hypericum, of extraordinary Ihow
and beauty (Hypericum aureum). It grows ereft,
three or four feet high, forming a globular top,
reprefenting a perfeft little tree ; the leaves are
large, oblong, firm of texture, fmooth and Ihining ;
the flowers are very large, their petals broad and
confpicuous, which, with t^eir tufts of golden fila-
ments, give the little bufhes a very fplendid ap-
pearance.

The adjacent low grounds and Cane fwamp af-
forded

TRAVELS IM

382

forded excellent food and range for our horfes, who,
by this time, through fatigue of conftant travelling,
heat of the climate and feulon, were tired and dif-
pirited : we came to camp fooner than ufual, and
ftarted later next day, that they might have time
to reft and recruit themfelves. The territory ly-
ing upon this creek, and the fpace between it and
the river, prelent every appearance of a delight-
ful and fruitful region in fome future day, it being
a rich foil, and exceedingly well fituated for every a
branch of agriculture and grazing, diverfified with
hills and dales, favannas and vaft Cane meadows,
and watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks,
all contiguous to the Flint river : an arm of the
great Chata Uche or Apalachucla offers an uninter-
rupted navigation to the bay of Mexico and the At-
lantic ocean, and thence to the Weft India iflands
and over the whole world.

Our horfes being hunted up and packed, fat for-
ward again, proceeding moderately, afcending a
higher country and more uneven by means of ridges
of gentle hills ; the country however very plea-
ling, being diverfified with expanfive groves, favan-
nas and Cane meadows, abounding with creeks and
brooks gliding through the plains or roving about
the hills, their banks bordered with forefts and
groves, confifting of varieties of trees, Ihrubs and
plants j the fummits of the hills frequently prefent-
ing to view piles and cliffs of the ferruginous rocks,
the fame fpecies as obferved on the ridges between
the Flat-rock and Rocky Comfort.

Next day we travelled but a few miles ; the
heat and the burning flies tormenting our horfes
to fuch a degree, as to excite companion even in
the hearts of pack-horfemen. Thefe biting flies are

of

NORTH AMERICA.

3*3

of feveral fpecies, and their numbers incredible.
We travelled almoft from fun-rife to his fetting,
amidft a flying hoft of thefe perfecuting fpirits, who
formed a vaft cloud around our caravan fo thick as
to obfcure every diftant objedt ; but our van always
bore the brunt of the conflidt; the head, neck, and
fhoulders of the leading horfes were continually in
a gore of blood : fome of thefe flies were near as
large as humble bees; this is the hippobofca. They
are armed with a ftrong fharp beak or probofcis,
fhaped like a lancet, and fheathed in flexible thin
valves ; with this beak they inftantly pierce the
veins of the creatures, making a large orifice from
whence the blood fprings in large drops, rolling
down as tears, caufing a fierce pain or aching for a
confiderable time after the wound is made. There
are three or four fpecies of this genus of lefs fize
but equally vexatious, as they are vaftly more nu-
merous, adtive and fanguineous ; particularly, one
about half the fize of the firft mentioned, the next
lefs, of a dufky colour with a green head ; another
yet fomewhat lefs, of a fplendid green and the head
of a gold colour ; the fting of this is intolerable,
no lefs acute than a prick from a red-hot needle, or
a fpark of fire on the fkin ; thefe are called the
burning flies. Befides the preceding tormentors,
there are three or four fpecies of the afilus or fmaller
biting flies ; one of a grayifh dufky colour ; ano-
ther much of the fame colour, having fpotted wings
and a green head ; and another very fmall and
perfedtly black : this laft fpecies lies in ambufh in
lhrubby thickets and Cane brakes near water:
whenever we approach the cool fhades near creeks^
impatient for repofe and relief, almoft finking un-
der the perfecutions from the evil fpirits, who con-

tinually

TRAVELS JN

3*4

tinually furround and follow us over the burning
defart ridges and plains, and here are in fome hopes
of momentary peace and quietnefs, under cover
of the cool humid groves, we are furprized and
quickly inverted with dark clouds of thefe perfe-
cting demons, befides mufquitoes and gnats (cu-
lex et cynips).

The next day being in like manner opprefied and
harrafied by the flinging flies and heats : we halted
at noon, being unable longer to fupport ourfelves
tinder fuch grievances, even in our prefent fituation
charming to the fenfes ; on the acclivity of a high
(welling ridge planted with open airy groves of the
fuperb terebinthine Pines, glittering rills playing
beneath, aud pellucid brooks meandering through
an expanfive green favanna, their banks orna-
mented with coppices of blooming aromatic lhrubs
and plants perfuming the air. The meridian heats
juft allayed, the fun is veiled in a dark cloud, riling
North- Weftward ; the air ftill, gloomy and fultry ;
the animal fpirits fink under the conflict, and we
fall into a kind of mortal torpor rather than re-
frefhing repofe ; and ftartled or terrified at each
others plaintive murmurs and groans. Now the
earth trembles under the peals of incefiant diftant
thunder, the hurricane comes on roaring, and I
am (hocked again to life : I raife my head and rub
open my eyes, pained with gleams and flafiies of
lightning ; when juft attempting to wake my af-
flict _-d brethren and companions, almoft over-
whelmed with floods of rain, the dark cloud opens
over my head, developing a vaft river of the et e-
rial fire ; I am inftantly (truck dumb, inactive and
benumbed; at length the pulfe of life begins to
vibrate, the animal fpirits begin to exert their
powers, and I am by degrees revived.

NORTH AMERICA.

33$

la the evening this furprifingly heavy temped:
palled off, we had aferene fky and a pleafant cool
night ; having had time enough to colleft a great
quantity of wood and Fine knots to feed our fires
and keep up a light in our camp, which was a lucky
precaution, as we found it abfolutely neceffary to
dry our clothes and warm ourfelves, for all our
fkins and bedding were call over the packs of mer-
chandize to prevent diem and our provifion from
being injured by the deluge of rain. Next day was
cool and pleafant, the air having recovered its elaf-
ticity and vivific fpirit : I found myfelf cheerful
and invigorated ; indeed all around us appeared re-
animated, and nature prefented her cheerful coun-
tenance ; the vegetables fmiled in their blooming
decorations and fparkling cryftalline dew-drops.
The birds fung merrily in the groves, and the alert
roe buck whiffled and bounded over the ample meads
and green turfy hills. After leaving our encamp-
ment, we travelled over a delightful territory, pre-
fenting to view variable fylvan icenes, confiding of
chains of low hills affording high forefts, with ex-
pan five favannas, Cane meadows, and lawns between,
watered with rivulets and glittering brooks. To-
wards evening we came to camp on the banks of
Pintchlucco, a large branch of the Chata Uche river.

The next day’s journey was over an uneven hilly-
country, but the foil generally fertile and of a
quality and fituation favourable to agriculture and
grazing, the fummits of the ridges rough with' fer-
ruginous rocks, in high cliffs and fragments, fcat-
tered over the furface of the ground : obferved
alfo high cliffs of fliff reddifh brown clay, with veins
or ftrata of ferruginous flones, either in detached
maffes or conglomerated nodules or hematites with
weins or maffes of ochre.

C c

Next

travels in

3^6

Next day, after traverfing a very delightful fer
ritcry, 'exhibiting a charming rural fcenery of pri-
mitive nature, gently defcending and pafllng alter-
nately eafy declivities or magnificent terraces fup-
porting fublime forefts, almofl: endlefs grafiy fields,
detached groves and green lawns for the diftance
of nine or ten miles, we arrived at the banks of the
ChataUche river oppofite the Uche town; where,
after unloading our horfes, the Indians came over
to us in large canoes, by means of which, with the
cheerful and liberal afliftance of the Indians, fer-
ried over the merchandize, and afterwards driv-
ing our horfes altogether into the river fwam them
over : the river here is about three or four hundred
yards wide, carries fifteen or twenty feet water,
and flows down with an adtive current ; the water
is clear, cool and falubrious.

The Uche town is fituated in a vafl plain, on
the gradual aicent as we rife from a narrow ftrip
of low ground immediately bordering on the river :
it is the largeft, mofi compact and bell fituated
Indian town I ever faw ; the habitations are large
and neatly built ; die walls of the houfes are con-
ftrudled of a wooden frame, then lathed and plaif-
tered i'nfide and out with a reddifh well tempered
clay or mortar, which gives them the appearance
of red brick walls ; and thefe houfes are neariy co-
vered or roofed with Cyprefs bark or fhingles of
that tree. The town appeared to be populous and
thriving, full of youth and young children : I fup-
pofe the number of inhabitants, men, women and
children, might amount to one thoufand or fifteen
hundred, as- it is faid they are able to mufter five
hundred gun-men or- warriors. Their own national
language is altogether or radically different from

NORTH AMERICA.

387

the Creek or Mufcogulge tongue, and is called the
Savanna or Savanuca tongue ; I was told by the
traders it was the fame with, or a dialed of, the
Shawanefe. They are in confederacy with the
Creeks, but do not mix with them; and, on account
of their numbers and ftrength, are of importance
enough to excite and draw upon them the jealoufy
of the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, and are
uiually at variance, yet are wife enough to unite
againlt a common enemy, to fupport the intereft
and glory of the general Creek confederacy.

After a little refrefhment at this beautiful town,
we repacked and fet off again for the Apalachucla
town, where we arrived after riding over a level
dain, confifting of ancient Indian plantations, a
>eautiful landfcape diverfified with groves and
lawns.

This is efteemed the mother town or Capital of
te Creek or Mufcogulge confederacy : facred to

!W1 f u? ,CaptIvesA a"e Put to death or. human
MrfPlk,here-. ^nd when a general peace is
iropofed, deputies from all the towns in the don-
ederacy affemble at this capital, in order to de~
berate upon a fubjeft of fo high importance for
ie PIo(penty of the commonwealth.

J And on the contrary the great CWeta town
out twelve miles higher up this river, is called die
^ody town, where the Micos, chiefs, and warriors
Iremble when a general war is propofed ; and here
^ptives and Hate malefa&ors are put to death.

| The time of my continuance here

P IT 1Cnf

1-Ap.hchucla obliged me widfhiS compn^"

C C 2 1,

walk

^88

travels in

walk of about a mile and an half down the river, to
view the ruins and fite of the ancient Apalachuda :
it had been fituated on a pemnfula formed by a
doubling of the river, and indeed appears to have
been a very famous capital by the artificial mounds
^ terraces7, and a very populous fettlement, from
its extent ^td expanfive old fields, ftretching
vond the fSpe of the fight along the low grounds,
of the river. F We viewed the mounds or terraces, .
on which formerly flood their tow"
tunda and fquare or areopagus, and a little behind
thefe on a level height or natural ftep, above the
low grounds, is a vaft artificial terrace or four ^ fquare
mound, now feven or eight feet higher than the
common furface of the ground; in > front of
fnuare or fide of this mound adjoins a \ery exte
f?ve oblon^ fquare yard or artificial level plain, iunkj
a Me Wow the /ommon furface and furrounded
tkh a bank or narrow terrace, formed with the

2ree°ksthor prefem

and poffeffing thl

country.

This old town was evacuated about twenty \ean
aJb the geTera. confent of the inhabits o
account of £ unhealthy

qucnt inundations Oi nc r and dejeftec

and moreover the> giew uum and p0i

apprehending themle ves to t 0f huma

felled with vengeful Ipmts, on acc ol

blood that had been undefervedly ip»K in

i * u the white traders then in *
* About fifty or fixty years ago almofl. rep.»red from the d.

nation were maflacred in this conference of the alan

"f ““ 1 “ U«-

NORTH AMERICA. 3$9

j town, having been repeatedly warned by appari-
i cions and dreams to leave it.

At the time of their leaving this old town, like
Che ruin or difperfion of the ancient Babel, the in-
habitants fepa rated from each other, forming fe-
deral bands under the conduft or aufpices of the
chief of each family or tribe. The greateft number,
lowever, chofe to fit down and build the prefent
rew Apalachucla town, upon a high bank of the
iver above the inundations. The other bands
Durfued different routs, as their inclinations led
them, fettling villages lower down the river; fome
continued their migration towards the fea coaft,
Peking their kindred and countrymen amongft the
Lower Creeks in Eaft Florida, where they fettled
hemfelves. My intelligent friend, the trader of
Apalachucla, having from a long refidence amongft
ihefe Indians acquired an extenfive knowledge of
their cuftoms and affairs, I inquired of him what
were his fentiments with refpeft to their wander-
ing, unfettled difpofition; their fo frequently break -
<ng up their old towns and fettling new ones, &c.
Hhs anfwers and opinions were the neceflity they
were under of having frelh or new ftrong land for
:heir plantations, and new, convenient and exten-
sive range or hunting ground, which unavoidably
forces them into contentions and wars with their
Confederates and neighbouring tribes ; to avoid
liwhich they had rather move and feek a plentiful
Jpnd peaceable retreat, even at a diftance, than con-
tend with friends and relatives or embroil themfelves

[temporary wives. They all met together in one houfe, under the avowed
Bproteflion of the chiefs of the town, waiting the event; but whilft the chiefs
Bf'trc afl'cmbled in council, deliberating on ways and means to proteft them,
Bwhe Indians in multitudes furrounded the houfe and l'ct fire to it ; they all,
■o the number of eighteen or tvyenty, periihed with the houfe in the flames.
{Mi'he trader Ihowed me the ruins of the houfe whcic they were burnt.

c C 3 in

travels IN

3 9°

S stt ££%*?** ^ **S;

ft uaio" of the Yamafe:nXTeM LToffX„drf

Sfete and^mofl"'06 ^ ^ Sp""1

S^SHi

deer. But not yet fatisfied, havinf alreadvV&r
conquered the powerful Cherokees? as, in i man
“ f°,rce *'"> “ alliance, and compelled^

themk'thehsICtahenS “ f°r peace and aI1‘ance with
m, they then grew arrogant and infatiable and

turned their covetous looks towards the potent and

intrepid Chadtaws, the only Indian enemy they had

to fear, meaning to break them up and poffefs them-

felves of that extenfive, fruitful and delightful ct-

H?,rhdAnake 1C a parC of their vaft eniPire. But
d e Chadtaws, a powerful, hardy, fubtile and intre-

p d race, eftimated at twenty thoufand warriors are

rcftl V f aff°rd iU|ficient exercife ^ the proud and
reftkfs fpmts of the Mufcogulges, at leaft for fome

A C°?le/ they aPPear t0 be fo equally
matched with the Chadtaws, that it feems doubtfid

which of thefe powerful nations will rife vidtorious.

T ie Creeks have fworn, it feems, that they never

will make peace with this enemy as long as the

rivers, flow or the fun.purfues his courfe through

Thus we fee that war or the exercife of arms
originates from the fame motives, and operates in
T*.e ip,rirs Oi the wild red men of America, as it

2 formerly

NORTH AMERICA.

39l

formerly did with the renowned Greeks and Ro-
mans, or modern civilized nations, and not from a
ferocious, capricious delire of fhedding human blood
as carnivorous favages : neither does the eager
avarice of plunder flimulate them to a£ts of mad-
nefs and cruelty, that being a trifling objedt in their
eflimation, a duffield blanket, a polifhed rifle gun,
or embroidered mantle ; no, their martial prowefs
and objects of defire and ambition proceed from
greater principles and more magnanimous inten-
tions, even that of reuniting all nations and languages
under one univerfal confederacy or common wealth.

The vegetable produftions in the rich low
ground, near the banks of this great river, of trees
and fhrubs, are as follow ; Platanus occidentalis,
Liriodendron tulipifera, Populus heterophylla,Lau-
rus faffafras, Lauras Barbonia, Lauras benzoin, Be-
tula lenta, Salix fluvialis. Magnolia grandiflora, An-
nona glabra, Ulmus campeflris, Ulmus fuberifera,
Carpinus, Quercus, various fpecies, Juglans, vari-
ous fpecies, iEfculus pavia, iEfculus fylvatica, f.
Virginiana, Morus, Hopea tindloria, Fagus fylva-
tica, of furprifing magnitude and comelinefs, &c.
The land rifes from the river with fublime magni-
ficence, gradually retreating by flights or fleps one
behind and above the other, in beautiful theatrical
order, each ftep or terrace holding up a level plain;
and as we travel back from the river, the fleps are
higher, and the correfponding levels are more and
more expanfive : the afcents produce grand high
forefls, and the plains prefent to view a delightful
varied landfcape, confining of extenfive graffy fields,
detached groves of high foreft trees, and clumps of
lower trees, evergreen fhrubs and herbage ; green
knolls, with ferpentine, wavy, glittering brooks

v- c 4 courfing

o92

travels in

courfmg through the green plains ; and dark pro-
montories, or obtufe projedhons of the fide-long
acclivities, alternately advancing or receding on
the verge of the illumined native fields, to the ut-
moft extent of fight, dhe fummits of the acclivi-
ties afford, befides the foreft trees already recited,
Halefia, Ptelea, Circis, Cornus Florida and Amor-
pha. The upper mound or terrace holds up a dilated
level plain of excellent land, for the diftance of five
or fix miles in width; which is a high foreft of the
majeftic trees already mentioned, as Quercus timfto-
ria, Juglans nigra, Morus, Ulmus, Tilia, Gleditfia,
Juglans hiccory, &c. The land after this diftance,
though almoft flat and level, becomes leaner j the
vegetative mould or furface is fhallower, on a
ftratum of renaceous humid clay, for the diftance
of fifteen or twenty miles, more or lefs, according
to the diftance of the next great river ; prefenting
to our view a fine expanfe of level grafly plains,
detached forefts and groves of Quercus alba,
lobata, Q^phillos, Q^ hemifpherica, Q^aquatica,
with entire groves of the fplendid Nyffa fylvatica
and perfumed Liquidambar ftyraciflua, vaft Cane
meadows, and laftly a chain of grafly favannas.
Immediately from this we began to afeend gra-
dually the moft elevated, gravelly and ftony ridge,
confiding of parallel chains of broken fwelling
hills, the very higheft chain frequently prefenting
to view cliffs of the ferruginous rocks and red
clay already noticed. This laft mentioned high
ridge divides the waters of the great rivers from
each other, whence arifethe fources of their nume-
rous lateral branches, gradually increafing as they
wind about the hills, fertilizing the vales and level
plains, by their inundations, as they pour forth
from the vaft humid forefts and fhaded prolific hills,

and

NORTH AMERICA. 3 9 3

£nd laftly, flow down, with an eafy, meandering,
Jfteady courfe, into the rivers to which they are tri-
butary.

Our horfes by this time having recruited them-
felves, by ranging at liberty and feeding in the rich
young cane fwamps, in the vicinity of Apalachu-
cla, we refumed our journey for Mobile, having
here repaired our equipage, and replenished our-
felves with freSh Supplies of provifions. Our cara-
van was now reduced to its original number ; the
companies of traders who joined us at the Flat- rock,
on our arrival at this town feparated from us, be-
taking themfelves to the feveral towns in the Na-
tion, where they were refpedtively bound. I Shall
juft mention a very curious non-defcript Shrub, which
I obferved growing in the Shady forefts, beneath
the afcents, next bordering on the rich low lands
of the river.

This ftoloniferous Ihrub grows five or fix feet
in height ; many ftemsuiually afcend from one root
or the fame Source ; thefe feveral Stems diverge
from each other, or incline a little towards the earth,
covered with a Smooth whitiSh bark, divided op-
pofitely, and the branches wreath and twift about,
being ornamented with compound leaves ; there
being five lanceolate Serrated leaves, aSTociated upon
one general long Slender petiole, which Stand op-
pofitely, on the branches, which terminate with a
Spike, or panicle of white flowers, having an
agreeable fcent : from the characters of the flow-
ers, this Shrub appears to be a Species of iEfculus
or Pavia, but as I could find none of the fruit and
but a few flowers, quite out of feafon and imperfeCt,
I am not certain.

3

CHAP.

39 4

travels in

CHAP. VI.

July ijth we left the Apalachucla town, and
three days journey brought us to Talafle, a town
on the Tallapoofe river, the North Eaft great
branch of the Alabama or Mobile river; having
pafied over a vaft level plain country of expanfiv?
iavannas, groves, Cane fwamps and open Pine fo-
refts, watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks,
tributary to Apalachucla and Mobile. We now
altered ourcourfe, turning to the left hand, Souther-
ly, and defcending near the river banks, continually
in fight of the Indian plantations and commons ad-
jacent to their towns. PafTed by Otaffe, an ancient
famous Mufcogulge town. The next fettlement
we came to was Coolome, where we ftayed two
days, and having letters for Mr. Germany, the prin-
cipal trader of Coolome, I meant to confult with
him in matters relative to my affairs and future
proceedings,

Here are very extenfive old fields, the abandon-
ed plantations and commons of the old town, on the
Eaft fide of the river ; but the fettlement is remov-
ed, and the new town now Hands on the oppofite
fhore, in a charming fruitful plain, under an eleva-
ted ridge of hills, the fwelling beds or bafes of which
are covered with a pleafing verdure of grals ; but
the laft afcent is fteeper, and towards the l'ummit
difcovers fhelving rocky cliffs, which appear to be
continually fplitting and burfting to pieces, fcatter-
ing their thin exfoliations over the tops of the graffy
knolls beneath. The plain is narrow where the

town

NORTH AMERICA.

395

town is built: their houfes are neat commodious
buildings, a wooden frame with plaiftered walls,
and roofed with Cyprefs bark or fhingles; every
habitation confifts of four oblong fquare houfes, of
one ftory, of the fame form and dimenfions, and fo
fituated as to form an exaft fquare, encompafllng
an area or court yard of about a quarter of an
acre of ground, leaving an entrance into it at each
corner. Here is a beautiful new fquare or areopa-
gus, in the centre of the new town; but the ftores of
the principal trader, and two or three Indian ha-
bitations, hand near the banks of the oppofite
fhore on the fite of the old Coolome town. The
Tallapoofe river is here three hundred yards over,
and about fifteen or twenty feet deep : the water
is veiy clear, agreeable to the tafte, efteemed falu-
bijous, and runs with a Heady, adtive current.

Being now recruited and refitted, having obtain-

wan.&Sde-j° fet 'f -m the great tradir>g path for
U eft Florida, early in the morning we fat off for

Mobile : ourprogrefs for about eighteen miles was
through a magnificent foreft, juft without or fkirt-
mg on the Indian plantations, frequently having a
view of their diftant towns, over plains or old fields •
and at evening we came to camp under fhelter of a
grove of Venerable fpreading oaks, on the ver^e
of the great plams; their enormous limbs loaded
wgh Tillandfia ufgeadfcites, wavirig in the winds •
thefe Oaks were fome fhelter to us from the vio- '
, an extraordmary fhower of rain, which
fuddenly came down in fuch floods as to inundate

e earth, and kept us Handing on our feet the
whole night, for the furface of the ground was un
der water almoft till morning. Early next morn-
ing, our guide having performed his duty, took

leave

TRAVELS IN

396

leave, returning home, and we continued on our
journey, entering on the great plains. We had not
proceeded far before our people roufed a litter of
young wolves, to which giving chafe, we foon caught
one of them, it being entangled in high grafs ; one
of our people caught it by the hind legs and an-
other beat out its brains with the but of his gun, —
barbarous lport! — This creature was about half
the fize of a fmall cur-dog, and quite black.

We continued over thefe expanfive illumined graf-
fy plains, or native fields, above twenty miles in
length, and in width eight or nine, lying parallel
to the river, which was about ten miles diftance ;
they are inverted by high forefts, extenlive points
or promontories, which projedl into the plains on
each fide, dividing them into many vaft fields open-
ing on either hand as we parted along, which pre-
fents a magnificent and pleafing fylvan landfcape
of primitive, uncultivated nature. CrortTed feveral
very confiderable creeks, their ferpentine courfes
being dire&ed acrofs the plain by gently fwelling
knolls perceptible at a diftance, but which feem to
vanilh or difappear as we come upon them ; the
creeks were waters of the Alabama, the name of
the Eaft arm of the Mobile below the confluence of
the Tallapoofe. Thefe rivulets were ornamented by
groves of various trees and Ihrubs, which do not
fpread far from their banks. I obferved amongft
them the wild Crab (Pyrus coronaria), and Prunus
Indica or wild Plumb, Cornus Florida, and on the
grafly turf adjoining grew abundance of Strawber-
ry vines : the furface of the plains or fields is clad
with tall grafs, intermixed with a variety of her-
bage. The moft confpicuous, both for beauty and
novelty, is a tall fpecies of Silphiumj the radical

leaves

NORTH AMERICA.

397

leaves are large, long and lightly finuated, but thofe
which garniih the ftem are few and lefs finuated ;
thefe leaves, with the whole plant, except the flow-
ers, appear of a whitifh green colour, which is ow-
ing to a fine foft filky down or pubefcence; the
flower ftem, which is eight or ten feet in length
when (landing ereCt, terminates upwards with a long
heavy (pike of large golden yellow radiated flow-
ers; the ftem is ufually feen bowing on one fide or
other, occafioned by the weight of the flowers, and
many of them are broken, juft under the panicle or
fpike, by their own weight, after ftorms and heavy
rains, which often crack or fplit the ftem, from
whence exudes a gummy or refinous fubftance,
which the fun and air harden into femi-pellucid
drops or tears of a pale amber colour. This refm
poflefles a very agreeable fragrance and bitterifli
tafte, fomewhat like frankincenfe or turpentine;
it is chewed by the Indians and traders, to cleanfe
their teeth and mouth, and fweeten their breath.

The upper ftratum or vegetable mould of thefe
plains is perfectly black, foapy and rich, efpecially
after rains, and renders the road very flippery :
it lies on a deep bed of white, teftaceous, limeftone
rocks, which in fome places refemble chalk, and in
other places are ftrata or fubterrene banks of va-
rious kinds of fea (hells, as oftrea, &c.: thefe diflolv-
ing near the furface of the earth, and mixing with
the fuperficial mould, render it extremely pro-
ductive.

Immediately after leaving the plains we enter
the grand high forefts. There were (lately trees of
the Robinea pfeudacacia, Tilia, Morus, Ulmus,
Juglans errata, Juglans nigra, Pyrus coronaria,
Cornus Florida, Cercis, &c. Our road now for

feveral

travels Ifl

393

feveral miles led us near the Alabama, within two
or three miles of its banks : the furface of the
land is broken into hills and vales, fome of
them of confiderable elevation, covered with fo-
refts of ftately trees, fuch as already mentioned,
but they are of a much larger growth than thofe of
the fame kind which grow in the Southern or inha-
bited parts of Georgia and Carolina. We now
left the river at a good diftance, the Alabama
bearing away Southerly, and entered a vaft open
foreft which continued above feventy miles, Eaft
and Weft, without any confiderable variation, gene-
rally a level plain, except near the banks of creeks
that courfe through: the foil on the furface is a duf-
ky brownifh mould or fandy loam, on a foundation
offtiff clay; and the furface, pebbles or gravel mix-
ed with clay on the fummits of the ridges : the fo-
refts confift chiefly of Oak, Hiccory, Afli, Sour
Gum (Nyfia fylvatica), Sweet Gum (Liquidambar
ftyraciflua). Beech, Mulberry, Scarlet maple. Black
walnut, Dog wood, Cornus Florida, iEfculus pa-
via, Prunus Indica, Ptelea, and an -abundance of
Chefnut (Fag. caftanea) on the hills, with Pinustae-
da and Pinus lutea. During our progrefs over this
vaft high foreft, we crofted extenfive open plains,
the foil gravelly, producing a few trees and fhrubs
or undergrowth, which were entangled with Grape
' vines (Vitis campeftris) of a peculiar fpecies; the
bunches (racemes) of fruit were very large, as were
the grapes that compofed them, though yet green
and not fully grown, but when ripe they are of va-
rious colours, and their juice fweet and rich. The
Indians gather great quantities of them, which they
prepare for keeping, by firft fweating them on hur-
dles over a gentle lire, and afterwards drying them
on their bunches in the fun raid air, and ftore them

NORTH AMERICA.

399

Iip for provifion. Thefe Grape vines do not climb
into high trees, but creep along from one low
fhrub to another, extending their branches to a
great diftance horizontally round about ; and it is
very pleafing to behold the clutters pendant from
the vines, almoft touching the earth j indeed fome
of them lie upon the ground.

We now entered a very remarkable grove ofDo°-
wood trees (Cornus Florida), which continued nine
or ten miles unalterable, except here and there a
towering Magnolia grandiflora ; the land on which
they ftand is an exaft level ; the furface a fhallow
loofe, black mould, on a ftratum of ftiff, yellowifh
clay. Thefe trees were about twelve feet high
fpreading horizontally ; their limbs meeting and
interlocking with each other, formed one%aft,
lhady cool grove, lb denfe and humid as to
exclude the fun-beams, and prevent the intru-
iion of almoft every other vegetable, affording
us a moft defirable fhelter from the fervid fun-
beams at noon-day. This admirable grove by way
of eminence has acquired the name of the' Doo-
woods. 13

During a progrefs of near feventy miles, through
this high foreft, there conftantly prefented to view
on one hand or the other, fpacious groves of this
hne flowering tree, which mutt, in the fpring fea-
lon, when covered with blofoms, prefent a moft plea-
ling fcene ; when at the fame time a variety of other
fweet ihrubs difplay their beauty, adorned in their
gay apparel, as the Haletta, Stewartia, Siculus na-
via, JEfc. alba ^Efc. Florid, ramis divaricatis, thyr-
fis ^randis, flofcuhs expanfis incarnatis, Azalea &c
entangled with garlands of Bignonia crucigera’

Big.

TRAVELS IN

4CO

Big. radicans, Big. fempervirens, Glycine frute-
lcens, Lonicera fempervirens, &c., and at the fame
time the fuperb Magnolia grandiflora, {landing in
front o t the dark groves, towering far above the
common level.

The evening cool, we encamped on the banks
of a glittering rivulet amidft a fpicy grove of the
Illicium Floridanum.

Early next morning we arofe, hunted up our
horfes and proceeded on, continuing about twenty
miles, over a diftridt which prefented to view an-
other landfcape; expanfive plains of Cane meadows,
and detached groves, contralred by fwelling ridges,
and vales fupporting grand forefts of the trees al-
ready noted, embelliihed with delightful creeks
and brooks, the low grounds producing very tall
canes, and the higher banks groves of the Illicium,
Callicanthus, Stewartia, Halefia, Styrax and others,
particulary Magnolia auriculata. In the evening
we forded the river Schambe about fifty yards
over, the ftream adlive but fhallow, which carries
its waters into the bay of Penfacola. Came to
camp, on the banks of a beautiful creek, by a charm-
ing grove of the Illicium Floridanum : from this
we travelled over a level country above fifty miles,
very gently but perceptibly defcending South-Eaft-
ward before us : this diftridl exhibited a landfcape
very different from what had prefented to view
fince we left the nation, and not much unlike the
low countries of Carolina ; it is in fadl one vaft
flat graffy favanna and Cane meadows, interfered
or varioufiy fcrolled over with narrow forefts and
groves, on the banks of creeks and rivulets, or
hommocks and fwamps at their fources ; with long
leaved Pines, lcatteringlyplanted, amongft the grafs*

and

I

NORTH AMERICA.

401

and on the high Tandy knolls and fwelling ridges*
Quercus nigra, Quercus flammula, Quercus incana,
with various other trees and fhrubs as already noted,
inhabiting fuch fituations. The rivulets however
exhibited a different appearance ; they are fhallower,
courfe more fwiftly over gravelly beds, and their
banks are adorned with Ulicium groves, Magnolias,
Azaleas, Halefia, Andromedas, &c. The higheft
hills near large creeks afford high forefts with abun-
dance of Chefnut trees.

We now approached the bay Mobile, gently as-
cending a hilly diftridt, being the higheft foreft ad-
joining the: extenfive rich low lands of the river :
thefe heights are fomewhat encumbered with peb-
bles, fragments and cliffs of rufty ferruginous rocks,-
the ftones were ponderous and indicated very rich
iron ore : here was a fmall diftrift of good land,
on the acclivities and bafes of thefe ridges, and a
level foreft below, watered by a fine creek, running
into the Mobile. From hence we proceeded, again
defcending, and travelled about nine miles generally
over a level country confifting of favannas, Cane
fwamps, and gentle rifing knolls, producing Pinus
tseda, Nyffa fylvatica, Quercus rubra, Fagus cafta-
nea, Fraxinus, with other trees. Arrived at Ta-
enfa, a pretty high bluff, on the Eaftern channel '
of the great Mobile river, about thirty miles above
fort Conde, or city of Mobile, at the head of the
bay.

Next day early in the morning I embarked in a
boat, and proceeded for Mobile, along the banks of
iflands (near twenty miles) which lay in the middle
of the river, between the Eaftern and Weftern
fhores of the main: the banks of thefe low flat rich
iflands are well cultivated, having on them extenfive

D d farms

402

TRAVELS IN

farms and fame good habitations, chiefly the pro-
perty of French gentlemen, who refide in the city, as
being more plealant and healthy. Leaving thefe
iflands, we continued ten or twelve miles between
the Eaftern main and a chain of low grafly iflands,
too low and wet for cultivation then crofled over
the head ofthe bay, and arrived in town in the evening.

The city of Mobile is fituated on the eafy afeent
of a rifing bank, extending near half a mile back on
the level plain above ; it has been near a mile in
length, though now chiefly in ruins, many houfes va-
cant and mouldering to earth ; yet there are a few
good buildings inhabited by French gentlemen,
Englifh, Scotch and Iriflr, and emigrants from the
Northern Britifli colonies. Meflrs. Swanfon and
McGillivray who have the management of the In-
dian trade carried on with theChicafaws, Chadlaws,
Upper and Lower Creeks, &c., have made here
very extraordinary improvements in buildings.

The fort Conde, which Hands very near the bay,
towards the lower end of the town, is a large regu-
lar fort-refs of brick.

The principal French buildings are conftrudled
of brick, and are of one ftory, but on an extenfive
fcale, four fquare, encompafling on three fides a
large area or court yard : the principal apartment
is on the fide fronting the ftreet ; they feem in
fome degree to have copied after the Creek habi-
tation in the general plan : thofe of the poorer clafs
are conftrufted of a ftrong frame of Cyprefs, filled
in with brick, plaiftered and white-wafhed infide
and out.

July j iH, 1778, the air being very hot and fultry,
thermometer up at 87, we had exceflive thunder, and

1 repeated

NORTH AMERICA*

4°3

repeated heavy fhowers of rain, from morning until
evening.

Not having an immediate opportunity from
hence to Manchac, aBritifli fettlement on the Mif-
fiffipi, I endeavoured to procure a light canoe, with
which I defigned to purfue my travels along fhore
to the fettlements about Pearl river.

Augult 5th, fet off from Mobile up the river in
a trading boat, and was landed at Taenfa bluff, the
feat of Major Farmer, to make good my engage-
ments, in confequence of an invitation from that
worthy gentleman, to fpend fome days in his fa-
mily : here I obtained the ufe of a light canoe, to
continue my voyage up the river. The fettlement
of Taenfa is on the fite of an ancient town of a
tribe of Indians of that name, which is apparent
from many artificial mounds of earth and other
ruins. Befides Mr. Farmer’s dwellings, there are
many others inhabited by French families; who
are chiefly his tenants. It is a moft delightful fitua-
tion, commanding a fpacious profpedt up and down
the river, and the low lands of his extenfive planta-
tions on the oppofite fliore. In my excurfions about
this place, I obferved many curious vegetable pro-
dudtions, particularly a fpecies of Myrica (Myrica
inodora): this very beautiful evergreen fhrub, which
the French inhabitants call the Wax tree, grows in
wet fandy ground about the edges of fwamps ; it
rifes ereft nine or ten feet, dividing itfelf into a
multitude of nearly eredt branches, which are gar-
nilhed with many fhining deep green entire leaves
of a lanceolate figure; the branches produce abun-
dance of large round berries, nearly the fize of bird
cherries, which are covered with a fcale or coat of
white wax ; no part of this plant poffeffes any de-

D d 2 gree

TRAVELS tS

4O4

gree of fragrance. It is in high eftimation with the
inhabitants for the production of wax for candles,
for which purpofe it anfwers equally well with
bees-wax, or preferably, as it is harder and more
lafting in burning.

Early on a fine morning I fet fail up the river,
took the Eaft channel, and palled along by well
cultivated plantations on the fertile iflands, in the
river on my left hand : thefe iflands exhibit every
fliow of fertility ; the native productions exceed any
thing I had ever feen, particularly the Reeds or
Canes (Arundo gigantea) grow to a great height
and thicknels.

Early one morning, palling along by fome old
uncultivated fields, a few miles above Taenfa, I
was ftruck with furprize at the appearance of a
blooming plant, gilded with the richelt golden yel-
low: ftepping on fhore, I difeovered it to be a new
fpecies of the Oenothera (Oenothera grandiflora,
caule ereCto, ramofo, pilofo, 7, 8 pedali, foliis
femi-amplexi-caulibus, lanceolatis, lerratodentatis,
floribus magnis, fulgidis, fellilibus, capfulis cylin-
dricis, 4 angulis,) perhaps the molt pompous and
brilliant herbaceous plant yet known to exilt. It
is an annual or biennial, riling ereCt feven or eight
feet, branching on all fides from near the earth up-
wards, the lower branches extenfive, and the fuc-
ceeding gradually Ihorter to the top of the plant,
forming a pyramid in figure ; the leaves are of a
broad lanceolate lhape,dentated or deeply ferrated,
terminating with a flender point, and of a deep full
green colour; the large expanded flowers, that fo
ornament this plant, are of a fplendid perfect yel-
low colour ; but when they contrail: again, before
they drop off, the underfide of the petals next the

NORTH AMERICA.

4O5

calyx becomes of a reddifh fkfh colour, inclining to
vermillion ; the flowers begin to open in the even-
ing, are fully expanded during the night, and are in
their beauty next morning, but clofe and wither
before noon. Their is a daily profufe fucceflion for
many weeks, and one fingle plant at the fame in-
ftant prefents to view many hundred flowers. I
have meafured thefe flowers above five inches in
diameter, they have an agreeable fcent.

After leaving thefe fplendid fields of the golden
Oenothera, I pafled by old deferted plantations and
high forefts ; and now having advanced above ten
miles, landed at a bluff, where mooring my bark
in a fafe harbour, I afcended the bank of the river,
and penetrating the groves, came prefently to old
fields, where I obferved ruins of ancient habitations,
there being abundance of Peach and Fig trees,
loaded with fruit, which affording a very acceptable
defert after the heats and toil of the day, and even-
ing drawing on apace, I concluded to take up my
quarters here for the night. The Fig trees were
large as well as their fruit, which was when ripe,
of the fhape of pears, and as large, and of a dark
bluifh purple colour.

Next morning I arofe early, continuing my
voyage ; pafled by, on each hand, high forefts and
rich fwamps,and frequently ruins of ancient French
plantations; the Canes and Cyprefs trees of an
aftonifhing magnitude, as were the trees of other
tribes, indicating an excellent foil. Came to at
noon, and advancing forward from the river, and
penetrating the awful fhades, pafled between the
ftately columns of the Magnolia grandi flora, and
came to the afcents fupporting the high forefts and

expanflve plains above What afylvan fccne is

D d 3 here \

TRAVELS IN

406

here ! the pompous Magnolia reigns fovereign of
the foreftsj howfweet the aromatic Illicium groves!
how gaily flutter the radiated wings of the Mag-
nolia auriculata, each branch fupporting an ex-
panded umbrella, fuperbly crefted with a filver
plume, fragrant bloflbm, or crimfon ftudded ftro-
bile and fruits ! I recline on the verdant bank,
and view the beauties of the groves, /Efculus pa-
via, Prunus nemoralis, fioribus racemofls, foliis
fempervirentibus, nitidis, /Efculus alba, Hydrangia
quercifolia, Cafline, Magnolia pyramidata, foliis
ovatis,oblongis, acuminatis, bafi auriculatis, ftrobilo
oblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus frangula, Hale-
fea, Bignonia, Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon,with
many more.

Returned to the river, re-embarked, and at even-
ing came to, in fight of the confluence or junction
of the two large arms of the great Mobile river, i. e.
the Tombigbe or Chicafaw with the Alabama or
Coofau. About one hundred and fifty miles above
this conflux, at Ft. Thouloufe, the Alabama receives
into it from the Eaft the great Talapool^ river,
when the former takes the name of Coofau, which
it bears to its fource, which is in the So. Well: pro-
montories of the Cherokee or Apalachian Moun-
tains in the Chicafaw territories.

Obferved very large alligators, balking on the
fhores, as well as fwimming in the river and la-
goons.

Next morning entered the Tombigbe, and af-
cended that fine river. Juft within its Capes, on
the left hand, is a large lagoon, or capacious bay
of ftill water, containing many acres in furface,
which at a diftant view prefents a very Angular and
diverting fcene -} a delufive green wavy plain of the

NORTH AMERICA.

407

Nymphasa Nelumbo : the furface of the water is
overfpread with its round floating leaves, whilft
thefe are fhadowed by a foreft of umbrageous leaves
with gay flowers, waving to and fro on flexible
ftems, three or four feet high : thefe fine flowers are
double as a rofe, and when expanded are feven
or eight inches in diameter, of a lively lemon yel-
low colour. The feed veflel when ripe, is a large
truncated, dry, porous capfule, its plane or difk
regularly perforated, each cell containing an oval
ofleous gland or nut, of the flze of a filbert ; when
thefe are fully grown, before they become quite hard,
they are fweet and pleafant eating, and tafte like
chefnuts : I fed freely on them without any injury,
but found them laxative. I have obferved this
aquatic plant, in my travels along the Eaftern fhores
of this continent, in the large rivers and lakes, from
New-Jerfey to this place, particularly in a large
pond or lake near Cape Fear river in North Caro-
lina, which is about two miles over and twelve
feet water, notwithftanding which its furface is al-
moft covered with the leaves of this plant ; it alfo’
abounds in Wakamaw lake near the fame river, and
in Savanna river at Augufla, and all over Eaft
Florida.

Proceeding up the river, came to at a very
high fteep bluff" of red and particoloured tenacious
clay, under a deep ffratum of loofe fandy mould: after
afcending this fteep bank of the river, I found my-
felf in an old field, and penetrating the forefts. fur-
rounding, obferved them to be young growth, co-
vering very extenfive old plantations, which was
evident from the ridges and hillocks which once
raifed their Corn (Zea), Batatas, &c. I fuppofe this
to be the fite of an ancient fortified poft of the

D d 4 French,

TRAVELS IN

408

french, as there appear veftiges of a rampart and
other traces of a fortrefs; peihaps fort Louis de la
Mobile ; but in all probability it will not remain
long vifible, the dream of the river making daily
encroachments on it, by carrying away the land on
which it flood.

Obferved here amongft other vegetable produc-
tions, a new fpecies, or at leaf! a variety, of Hale-
fia diptera : thefe trees are of the fize and figure of
ordinary Mulberry trees, their ftems fhort, and
tops regular and fpreading, and the leaves large
and broad, in fize and figure refembling thofe of
our common wild Mulberry,.

Oppofite this bluff, on the other fide of the river,
is a diftrift of fwamp or low land, the richeft I ever
faw, or perhaps any where to be feen : as for the
trees I fhall forbear to defcribe them, becaufe it
would appear incredible ; let itfuffice to mention, that
the Cyprefs, Afh, Platanus, Populus, Liquidambar,
and others, are by far the tailed, ftraighteft and every
way the moft enormous that I have feen or heard
of. And as a proof of the extraordinary fertility of
the foil, the reeds or canes (Arundo gigantea) grow
here thirty or forty feet high, and as thick as a
man’s arm, or three or four inches in diameter; I
fuppofe one joint of forne of them would contain
above a quart of water ; and thefe reeds ferve very
well for fetting poles, or mafts for barks and canoes.
Continued yet afcending this fine river, pafiing
by the moft delightful and fertile fituations : ob-
fcrved frequently, on bluffs of high land, deferted
plantations, the houfes always burnt down to the
ground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceiv-
ing little variation in the natural vegetable pro-
ductions, the current of the river preffing down

with

409

NORTH AMERICA.

with increafed force and velocity, I turned about,
defending the river, and next evening came to At
a large well cultivated plantation, where I lodged
all night, and the evening following returned to

Taenfa.

Next day I felt fymptoms of a fever, which in a
few days laid me up and became dangerous. But
a dole of Tare. Emet. broke its violence ; and care
and good attendance, after a few days in fome de-
gree reftored my health, at leaft, fo far as to ena-
ble me to rove about the neighbouring fordts ;
and here being informed of a certain plant of ex-
traordinary medical virtues, and in high ettima-
tion with the inhabitants, which grew in . the
hilly land about thirty miles higher up the river,
I refolved to fet out in fearch of it, the Major be-
ing fo polite and obliging as to furnilh me with
horfes to ride, and a Negro to pilot and take care
of me.

Sat off in the morning, and in the courfe of the
day’s journey croffed feveral creeks and brooks, one
of which fwam our horfes. On paffing by a fwamp
at the head of a bay or lagoon of the river, I ob-
ferved a fpecies of Cyprefs ; it differs a little ftom
the white Cedar of New-Jerfey and Pennfylvania
(Cupreffus thyoides), the trunk isfhort and the limbs
fpread horizontally, the branches fuller of leaves
and the cones larger and of a crimfon or reddiih
purple colour when ripe.

After leaving the low grounds and afeending
the hills, difeovered the plant I went in fearch of,
which I had before frequently obferved in my de-
feent from the Creek nation down towards Taenfa.
This plant appears to be a fpecies of Collinfonia ;

it

/

410 TRAVELS IK

x .

it is diuretic and carminative, and efteemed a
powerful febrifuge, an infufion of its tops is ordi-
narily drunk at breakfaft, and is of an exceeding
pleafant tafte and flavour : when in flower, which is
the time the inhabitants gather it for prefervation
and ufe, it poffeffes a lively aromatic fcent, partak-
ing of lemon and anifeed. Lodged this night at
a plantation near the river, and met with civility
and good entertainment. The man and his three
fons are famous hunters. I was allured from good
authority that the old gentleman, for his own part,
kills three hundred deer annually, befides bears,
tygers, and wolves.

Next morning early, fat off again, on my return,
and taking a different path back, for the fake of
variety, though fomewhat farther about and at a
greater diftance from the banks of the river, ob-
ferved abundance of the tall blue Sage : it grows
fix or feven feet high ; many Items arife from one
root or fource ; thefe Items are thick, woody and
. ^quadrangular, the angles obtufe : the narrow lan-
ceolate and ferrated leaves are placed oppofite,
and are feffile, lightly embracing the branches,
which terminate with lpikes of large flowers of a
celeftial blue colour.

Thefe ftony gravelly heights produde a variety
of herbaceous plants, but one in particular I fhall
mention on account of its Angular beauty : I be-
lieve it is a fpecies ofGerardea (Gerardea flammea);
it grows ere£t, a Angle Item from a root, three or
four feet in height, branching very regularly from
about one half its length upwards, forming a cone
or pyramid, profufely garnifhed with large tubular
labiated fcarlet or flame coloured flowers, which
o-ivc the plant a very fplendid appearance, even at
^ a great

NORTH AMERICA.

411

a great diftance. Returned home in the evening
fully fatisfied with the day’s excurfion, from the
difcovery of many curious and beautiful vegetables.

Having advice from Mobile of an opportunity
to Manchac, although my health was not eftablifli-
ed, feverifh fymptoms continuing to lurk about me,
I refolved, notwithftanding, immediately to embrace
this offer, and embarked again, defcending the ri-
ver to the city in company with Dr. Grant, a phy-
fician of the garrifon, and late in the evening ar-
rived in town, having buffered a fmart fit of the
fever by the way.

In the courfe of converfation with the doftor, I
remarked that during my travels fince leaving the
Creek nation, and when there, I had not feen any
honey bees. He replied, that there were few or
none Weft of the Ifthmus of Florida, and but one
hive in Mobile, which was lately brought there from
Europe, the Englifh fuppofing that there were none
in the country, not finding any when they took pof-
feffion of it after the Spanifh and French. I had
been affured by the traders that there were none in
Weft Florida, which to me feemed extraordinary
and almoft incredible, fince they are fo numerous
all along the Eaftern continent from Nova Scotia
to Eaft Florida, even in the wild forefts, as to be
thought, by the generality of the inhabitants, abo-
rigines of this continent.

The boat in which I had taken a paffage to Pearl
river, not being in readinefs to depart for feveral
days to come, I fought opportunities to fill up this
time to the beft advantage poffible ; and hearing
of a boat going to the river Perdedo, for the pur-
pofe of fequring the remains of a wreck, I appre-
hended

412

TRAVELS IN

hended this a favourable time to go and fearch that
coaft, the captain civilly offering me a paffage and
birth with him in a handfome light failing-boat.
Set fail early on a fine morning, and having a brifk
leading breeze, came to in the evening juft within
Mobile point; colledted a quantity of drift wood to
keep up a light and fmoke away the mufquitoes,
and refted well on the clean fandy beach until the
cool morning awoke us. We hoifted fail again,
and foon doubled the point or Eaft promontory of
the cape of the bay, ftretching out many miles and
pointing towards Dauphin ifland, between which
and this cape is the fhip channel.

Coafting along the fea-fhore Eaftward, we foon
came up to the wreck, which being already ftrip-
ped of her fails, &c., our captain kept on for Pen-
facola, where we arrived late in the evening.

My arrival at this capital, at prefent the feat of
government, was merely accidental and undefigned;
and having left at Mobile all my papers and tefti-
monials, I defigned to conceal my avocations, but
my name being made known to Dr. Lorimer, one
of the honourable council, he fent me a very polite
invitation, and requefted that he might acquaint
governor Chefter of my arrival, who he knew
would expedt that I fhould wait on him, and would
be pleafed to fee me. I begged to be excufed, at
this time, as the boat would fail back for Mobile in a
few hours, in which I was under the neceffity of re-
turning, or muft lofe my paffage totheMiffilfipi; but
during this expoftulation I received a letter from
Mr. Livingflon the fecretary, whom 1 waited upon,
and was received very refpedtfully and treated with
the utmofl politenefs and affability. Soon after, the
governor’s chariot palfed by, his excellency return-

WORTH AMERICA.

4T3

Ing from a morning vifit to his farm a few miles^
from Penfacola. Mr. Livingfton went with me and
introduced me to the governor, who commended
my purfuits, and invited me to continue in Weft;
Florida in refearches after fubjeCts of natural hif-
tory, &c., nobly offering to bear my expences, and
a refidence in his own family as long as I chofe to
continue in the colony ; very judicioufly obferving,
that a complete inveftigation of its natural hiftory
could not be accomplifhed in a fhort fpace of time,
ftnce it would require the revolution of the feafons
to difcover and view vegetable nature in all her va-
rious perfections.

The captain of our fortunate bark by this time
being ready to fail, I took leave of his excellency
the governor, and bid adieu to my friends Dr. Lo-
rimer, Mr. Livingfton, and others : fet fail about
noon on our return, and came to again within the
capes of Mobile river.

Since I have hitherto given a fuperficial account
of the towns, ports, improvements and other re-
markable productions of nature, and human arts
and induftry, during the courfe of my perigrina-
tion, I fhall not pafs by Penfacola and its environs.
This city commands fome natural advantages, fu-
perior to any other port in this province, in point
of naval commerce, and iuch as human art and
ftrength can never fupply. It is delightfully fituated
upon gentle rifing afcents environing a fpacious
harbour, fafe and capacious enough to fhelter all the
navies of Europe, and excellent ground for anchor-
age; the Weft end of St. Rofe ifland ftretches acrofs
the great bay St. Maria Galves, and its South-Weft;
projecting point forms the harbour of Penfacola,

which.

4H-

TRAVELS IN

'which, with the road or entrance, is defended by a
block-houfe built on the extremity of that point,
which at the fame time ferves the purpofe of a
fortrefs and look-out tower. There are leveral
rivers which run into this great bay from the con-
tinent, but none of them navigable for large craft,
to any confiderable diftance into the country : the
Shambe is the largeft, which admits fhallops fome
miles up, and perriauguas upwards of fifty miles.
There are fome fpots of good high land, and rich
fwamps, favourable for the production of rice on
the banks of this river, which have given rile to
fome plantations producing Indigo, Rice, Corn,
Batatas, &c. Thefe rivers dividing and fpreading
abroad their numerous branches, over the ex-
panfive fiat low country (between the two great
rivers Apalachucla and Mobile), which confilts of
favannas and cane meadows, fill them with brooks
and water courfes, and render them exuberant
palture for cattle.

There are feveral hundred habitations in Penfa-
cola : the governor’s palace is a large (tone build-
ing ornamented with a tower, built by the Spa-
niards. The town is defended by a large ftockado
fortrefs, the plan a tetragon with falient angles at
each corner, where is a block-houfe or round
tower, one ftory higher than the curtains, where are
light cannon mounted : it is conftrufted of wood.
Within this fortrefs is the council chamber; here the
records are kept, houfes for the officers and barracks
for the accommodation of the garrifon, arfenal,
magazine, &c. The fecretary refides in a fpacious,
neat building: there are feveral merchants and
gentlemen of other profeffions, who have rcfpeft-
able and convenient buildings in the town.

There

NORTH AMERICA.

415

There were growing on the fand hills, environ-
ing Penfacola, feveral curious non-defcribed plants;
particularly one of the verticillate order, about
eighteen inches in height : the flowers, which for-
med loofe fpikes, were large and of a fine fcarlet
colour ; but not having time to examine the frudti-
fication, or colledl good fpecimens, I am ignorant
of what order or genus it belongs to. And in
the level wet favannas grew plentifully a new and
very elegant fpecies ofSaracinia (Saracinia lacuno-
fa) ; the leaves of this plant, which are twelve or
fourteen inches in length, Hand nearly eredt, are
round, tubular and ventricofe — but not ridged with
longitudinal angles or prominent nerves, as the
leaves of the Saracinia flava are ; the aperture at
top may be fhut up by a cap or lid, of a helmet
form, which is an appendage of the leaf, turning
over the orifice in that Angular manner; the ventri-
cofe, or inflated part of the leaf, which is of a pale,
but vivid green colour, is beautifully ornamented
with rofe coloured fluds or blitters, and the inner
furface curioufly infcribed, or variegated, with crim-
fon veins or fibres. It was pall the time for flower-
ing, but the plant in any fituation is a very oreat
curiofity.

Next morning early we arofe from our hard
fandy fea-beaten couch, being difturbed the whole
night by the troublefome mufquitoes ; fet fail, and
before night returned fafe to the city of Mobile.

CHAP.

4 16

fK AVels lit

GHAP. VII.

The next day after my return to Mobile, I
found myfelf very ill, and not a little alarmed by
-an exceffive pain in my head, attended with a high
fever; this diforder foon fettled in my eyes, nature
purfuing that way to expel the malady, caufing a
moffc painful defluxion of pellucid, corrofive water;
notwithftanding, I next day fet off on board a large
trading boat, the property of a French gentleman,
and commanded by him (he being general interpre-
tet-for the ChaftavV nation), on his return to his
plantations, on the banks of Pearl river : our bark
was large, well equipped for failing, and manned
with three flout Negroes, to row in cafe of necef-
fity. We embarked in the evening, and came to
about fix miles below the town, at a pleafant farm,
the mafler of which (who was a Frenchman) enter-
tained us in a very polite and friendly manner.
The wind favourable, next morning eaily we fet
fail again, and having made extraordinary way,
about noon came up abreafl of a high fteep bluff,
or perpendicular cliff of high land, touching on
the bay of the Weft coaft, where we went on fhore,
to give liberty to the flaves to reft and refrelh
themfelves. In the mean time I accompanied the
captain on an excurflon into the tyacious level
forefts, which fpread abroad from the fhore to a
great diftance back ; obferved vefhges of an anci-
ent fortrefs and fettlement, and theie yet remain a
few pieces of iron cannon ; but what principally
attracted my notice, was three vaft iron pots or ket-
tles each of many hundred gallons contents: upon
' 3 ' inquiry.

NORTH AMERICA.

4*7

’inquiry, my affociate informed me they were for
the purpofe of boiling tar to pitch, there being
vafl forefts of Pine trees in the vicinity of this place.
In Carolina the inhabitants purfue a different me-
thod ; when they defign to make pitch, they
dig large holes 'in the ground, near the tar
kiln, which they line with a thick coat of good
clay, into which they conduit a fufficient quantity
of tar, and fet it on fire, fuffering it to flame and.
evaporate a length of time fufficient to convert it
into pitch, and when cool, lade it into bairels,
and fo on until they have confumed all the tar, or
made a fufficient quantity of pitch for their purpofe.

After re-imbarldng, and leaving this bluff a few
miles, we put in to ffiore again, and came to a
farm houfe, a little diftance from the water, where
we fupplied ourfelves with Corn meal, Batatas,
bacon, &c. The French gendeman (proprietor of
the plantation) was near eighty years old, his hair
almoft white with age, yet he appeared aftive,
ft long and mufcular ; and his mother who was pre-
fent,&was one hundred and five years old, aftive
and cheerful, her eyes feemed as brifk and fpark-
ling as youth, but fhe was of a diminutive fize, not
half the ftature and weight of her fon : it was now
above fifty years fince fhe came into America from
old France.

I embarked again, proceeding down the bay,^
and in the evening doubled the weft point or cape of
the bay, being a promontory of the main, between
which and Dauphin ifland, we entered the channel
Oleron. From this time, until we arrived at this gen-
tleman’s habitation on Pearl river, I was incapable
of making any obfervations, for my eyes could not
bear the light, as the leaf!: ray admitted feemed

TRAVELS I NT

4lS

as the piercing of a fword : and by the time I had
arrived at Pearl river, the excruciating pain had
rendered me almoft frantic and ftupified for want
of fleep, of which I was totally deprived ; and the
corroding water, every few minutes, ftreaming from
my eyes, had ftripped the fkin off my face, in the
fame manner as fcalding water would have done.
I continued three days with this friendly Frenchman,
who tried every remedy, that he or his family could
recoiled, to adminifter relief, but to no purpofe.
My fituation was now become dangerous, and I
expelled to fink under the malady, as I believe my
friends here did. At laft: the man informed me, that
on Pearl ifland, about twelve miles diftance, refided
an Englifh gentleman, who had a variety of medi-
cines, and if I chofe to go to him he would take
me there. I accordingly bid adieu to this hofpita-
ble family, and fet off with him in a convenient
boat ; before night arrived at Mr. Rumfey’s, who
received me kindly, and treated me with the utmoft
humanity, during a flay of four or five weeks. The
night however after my arrival here I fincerely
thought would be my laft, and my torments were
fo extreme as to defire it : having furvived this
tedious night, I in fome degree recovered my
fenfes, and afked Mr. Rumfey if he had any Cantha-
rides ; he foon prepared a bliftering plaifter for me,
which I direded to be placed betwixt my fhoulders;
this produced the defired relief, and more than an-
fwered my expectation, for it had not been there
a quarter of an hour before I fell afleep, and re-
mained fo a whole day, when I awoke intirely re-
lieved from pain, my fenfes in perfeCt harmony and
mind compoled. I do not know how to exprefs
myfelf on this occafion ; all wras peace and tran-
quillity: although I had my fight imperfedly,yet my

body

NORTH AMERICA.

419

oody feemed but as a light fbadow, and my exig-
ence as a pleafing delirium, for I fometimes doubted
of its reality. I however from that moment be^
gan to mend, until my health was perfe<5tly reftored;
but it was feveral weeks before 1 could expofe my
eyes to open day light, and at laft I found my left
eye confiderably injured, which fuffered the great-
eu; pain and weight of the difeafe.

As loon. as I acquired ftrength to walk about, and
bear the lead; impreffion of open day light on my
eyes, I made frequent, indeed I may fay daily ex-
curfions in and about this ifland, ftrolling through
its awful fhades, venerable groves and fublime fo-
rcfts , confifting of the Live Oaks and Magnolia
grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Olea Americana,
Pagus fylvatica, Laur. Saffafras, Quercus hemi-
iphenca, Tilia, Liqmdambar ftyraciflua, Morus,
Gleditfia, Calhcarpa, Halcfia, &c.

The ifland is fix or feven miles in length, and
four or five in width, including the fait marfhes and
plains, which invert it on every fide, I believe we

nfT yrueTuPt r n,arr°W ftrand at the South end

wh 67 Lake B°rS°ne at the Regullets,

wh ch is a promontory compofed of banks' of fea-

foells and fand cart up by the force of winds, and

the furfofthe Lake; thefe fhells are chiefly a fmall

gecies of white clam fhells, called les coquilles

Hem are afovv fhrubs growing on thefefoelly

heights, viz. Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, My!

nca, Zanthoxylon clava Herculis, Juniperus Arne

ncana, Lyfium falfum ; together with feveral new

* nera and fpecies or the herbaceous, and fuffruti

ofo tribes, Croton, Stillingia, &c., but particularly

of (Mfm°ra virSat3)P. which in

pett tht elegancy of its pmnated leaves, can-

£e* • not

4 20 , TR-AVELS IN

not be excee'ded by any of that celebrated family.
It is a perennial plant, fending up many nearly
ere<5t ftems from the root or fource ; thefe divide
themfelves into many afcendant (lender rods like
branches, which are ornamented with double pin-
nated leaves, of a mod delicate formation. The
compound flowers, are of a pale, greenifh yellow,
colle&ed together in a fmall oblong head, upon a
long (lender peduncle, the legumes are large, lu-
nated and flat, placed in a fpiral or contorted man-
ner, each containing feveral hard comprefled feeds
or little beans.

The interior and by far the greater part of the
ifland confifls of high land; the foil to appearance
a heap of fea fand in fome places, with an admix-
ture of lea (hells; this foil, notwithftanding its fandy
and fleril appearance, when diverted of its natural
vegetative attire, has, from what caufe I know not,
a continual refource of fertility within itfelf: the
furface of the earth, after being cleared of its origi-
nal vegetable produflions, expofed a few feafons
to the fun, winds, and triturations of agriculture,
appears fcarcely any thing but heaps of white fand,
yet it produces Corn (Zea), Indigo, Batatas, Beans,
Peas, Cotton, Tobacco, and almofl every fort of
efculent vegetable, in a degree of luxuriancy very
furprizing and unexpefted, year after year, incef-
fantly, without any addition of artificial manure or
comport : there is indeed a foundation of ftrong
adhefive clay, confiding of ftrata of various colours,
which I difcovered by examining a well, lately dug
in Mr. Rumfey’s yard; but lying at a great depth
under the furface, the roots of fmall (hrubs and
herbage, cannot reach near to it, or receive any
benefit, unlefs we may luppofe, that afcending

fumes

NORTH AMERICA.

42 *

fumes or exhalations, from this bed of clay, may
have a vivific nutritive quality, and be received by
the fibres of the roots, or being condenfed in the
atmofphere by nofturnal chills, fall with dews upon
the leaves and twigs of thefe plants, and there ab-
forbed, become nutritive or exhilerating to them.

Befides the native foreft trees and fhrubs already
noted, manured fruit trees arrive in this ifland to
the utmoft degree of perfection, as Pears, Peaches,
Figs, Grape Vines, Plumbs, & c. ; of the laft men-
tioned genus, there is a native Ipecies grows in this
ifland, which produces its large oblong crimfon
fruit in prodigious abundance ; the fruit, though of
a moft enticing appearance, is rather too tai t, yet
agreeable eating, at fultry noon, in this burning
climate ; it affords a moft delicious and reviving
marmalade, when preferved in fugar, and makes
excellent tarts ; the tree grows about twelve feet
high, the top fpreading, the branches fpiny and the
leaves broad, nervous, ferrated, and terminating
with a fubulated point.

My eyes having acquired fufficient ftrength to
endure the open day light, I fet off from Pearl
ifland, for Manchac on the Miflifiipi, in a handfome
large boat with three Negroes to navigate her.
Leaving the friendly Mr. Rumfey’s feat on Pearl
Ifland, we defcended a creek from the landing
near his houfe ■, this creek led us about a mile,
winding through fait fedgy marfhes, into Lake
Pontchartrain, along whofe North fhores we coaft-
ed about twenty miles, having low, reedy marfhes,
on our ftarboard : thefe marfhes were very exten-
five between us and the far diftant high forefts on
the main : at evening the flhore became bolder, with
fandy elevations, affording a few dwarf Oaks, Zan-

E e 3 thoxylon,

422

travels in

thoxylon, Myrica and Rham. frangula. We came
to in a little bay, kindled a fire, and after fupper
betook ourfelves to repofe; ourfituation open, airy
and cool, on clean land banks ; we refted quietly,
though fometimes roufed by alarms from the cro-
codiles, which are here in great numbers, and of
an enormous bulk and ftrength.

Next day early we got under way, purfuing our
Former courfe, nearly Weftward, keeping the North
fhore feveral leagues. Immediately back of this
high fandy ftrand, (which is call up by the beating
furf and winds, letting from feaward, acrofs the
wideft part of the lake) the ground fuddenly falls,
and becomes extenfive flat Cyprefs fwamps, the
fources of creeks and rivers, which run into the
lake, or Pearl River, or other places; the high
forefts of the main now gradually approaching the
lake, advance up to the very fhore, where we find
houfes, plantations and new fettlements : we came
to at one of them charmingly fituated,fet fail again,
and came up to the mouth of the beautiful Taen-
fapaoa, which takes that name from a nation of In-
dians,who formerly pofiefled the territories lying on
its banks, which are fertile and delightful regions.
This river is narrow at its entrance, but deep, and
faid to be navigable for large barks and perriauguas
tipwards of fifty miles: juft within its capes, on
the leeward Ihore, are heights, or a group of low
hills (compofed of the fmall clam fhells, called les
coquilles), which gradually ddprefs a£ we retreat
back from the river, and the furface of the land is
more level; thefe fhells diflolving and mixing with
the furface, render the vegetative mould black,
rich, and productive. Here are a few habitations,
and fome fields cleared and cultivated ; but the

inhabitants

NORTH AMERICA.

423

inhabitants negleft agriculture, and generally em-
ploy themfelves in hunting and fifhing: we however
furnilhed ourfelves here with a fufficiency of ex-
cellent Batatas. I obferved no new vegetable pro-
ductions, except a fpecies of Cleome (Cleome lu-
pinifolia) ; this plant poflefles a very ftrong fcent,
fomewhat like Gum Aflafetida, notwithllanding
which the iuhabitants give it a place in foups and
fauces.

From Taenfapaoa, we ftill coafted Weftward,
three or four miles, to the ftraits that communicate
with the lake Maurepas; entering which and continu-
ing fix or eight m iles, having low fvvampy land on each
fide, the channel divides, forming an ifland in the
middle of the pafs: we took the right hand channel^,
which continues three or four miles, when the chan-
nels reunite in full view of the charming lake. We
came to at an elevated point, orpromontory, on the
-{larboard main Ihore, it being the North cape, from
whence I enjoyed a very pleafing and complete view
of the beautiful lake Maurepas ; entering which
next morning, a fteady favourable gale foon wafted
us nine or ten miles over to the mouth of the river
Amite ; afcended between its low banks ; the land
on each fide a level fwamp, about two feet above
the furface of the water, fupporting a thick foreft
of trees, confiding chiefly ofFraxinus, Nyfla aqua-
tica, Nyfla multiflora, Cuprefliis diftichaj Queicus
phillos, Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Acer glaucum,
Sambucus, Laurus Borbonia, Carpinus,Ulmus, and
others. The foil or earth humid, black and rich.
There is fcarcely a perceptible current: the water
dark, deep, turgid and ftagnate, being from Ihore
to Ihore covered with a fcum or pellicle of a green
and purplifh call, and perpetually throwing up

E e 4 from

4-4

TRAVELS IN

from the muddy bottom to its furface minute air
bladders or bubbles: in fhort, thefe dark loathfome
waters, from every appearance, feem to be aftrong
extract or tindlure of the leaves of the trees, herbs
and reeds, arifing from the fhores, and which almoft
overfpread them, and float on the furface, infomuch
that a great part of thefe ftagnate rivers, during the
fummer and autumnal feafons, are conftrained to
pafs under a load of grafs and weeds ; which are
continually vegetating and fpreading over the fur-
face from the banks, until the rifing floods of win-
ter and fpring, rufhing down from the main, fweep
them away, and purify the waters. Late in the
evening we difcovered a narrow ridge of land clofe
to the river bank, high and dry enough to fuffer us
to kindle a fire, and lpace fufficient to fpread our
bedding on. But here, fire and lmoke were infuf-
ficient to expel the holts of mufquitoes that inverted
our camp, and kept us awake during the long and
tedious night, fo that the aligators had no chance
of taking us napping. We were glad to rife early
in the morning, proceeding up the Amite. The
land now gradually riles, the banks become higher,
the foil diier and firmer four or five feet above the
furface of the river ; the trees are of an incredible
magnitude, particularly Platanus occidentalis, Frax-
inus, ulmus, Quercus hemifpherica, & c. The
Canna Indica grows /here in furprifing luxuriance,
prefenting a glorious fhow; the Item rifes fix, feven
and nine feet high, terminating upwards with fpikes
of fcarlet flowers.

Now having advanced near thirty miles up the
Amite, we arrived at a very large plantation, the
property of a Scotch gentleman, who received me

with

NORTH AMERICA.

425

with civility, entreating me to refide with him; but
being impatient to get to the river, and pleading
the neceffty of profecuting my travels with alacrity,
on account of the feafon being fo far advanced, I
was permitted to proceed, and fet off next morn-
ing. Still afcending the Amite about twenty miles
farther, arrived at the forks, where the Iberville
comes in on the left hand, afcending which a little
way, we foon came to the landing, where are ware-
houfes fordepofiting merchandize, this being the ex-
tremity of navigation up this canal, and here fmall
veffels load and unload. From this place to Man-
chac, on the banks of the Miffiffipi, juft above the
(mouth of the canal, is nine miles by land ; the
road ftraight, fpacious,and perfeftly level, under the
fhadow of a grand foreft ; the trees of the firft order
in magnitude and beauty, as Magnolia grandi-
flora, Liriodendron tulipifera, Platanus, Juglans
nigra, Fraxinus excelfior, Morus rubra, Laurus
faflafras, Laurus Borbonia, Tilea, Liquidambar
ftyraciflua, &c.

At evening arrived at Manchac, when I directed
my fteps to the banks of the Miffiffipi, where I ftood
fora time as it were fafcinated by the magnificence
of the great fire* of rivers.

The depth of the river here, even in this feafon,
at its loweft ebb, is aftonifhing, not leis than forty
fathoms; and the width about a mile or fomewhat
lefs ; but it is not expanfion of furface alone that
ftrikes us with ideas of magnificence ; the altitude
and theatrical afcents of its penfile banks, the ftea-
dy courfe of the mighty flood, the trees, high fo-
fefts, even every particular objeift, as well as focie-

.',i- -- fL * Whiph is the meaning of the word MjffifTipi.

TRAVELS IN

426

ties, bear the ftamp of fuperiority and excellence ;
all unite or combine in exhibiting a proipeCt of the
grand fublime. The banks of the river at Manchac,
though frequently overflowed by the vernal inunda-
tions, are about fifty feet perpendicular height above
the furface of the water (by which the channel at
thofe times mud be about two hundred and ninety
feet deep); and thefe precipices being an accumu-
lation of the fediment of muddy waters, annually-
brought down with the floods, of a light loamy confif-
tence, continually cracking and parting, prefent to
view deep yawning chafms, in time Iplit off, as the
aCtive perpetualcurrentundermines; and the mighty
maffes of earth tumble headlong into the river,
whofe impetuous current fweeps away and lodges
them elfewhere. There are yet vifible fome remains
of a high artificial bank, in front of the buildings of
the town, formerly call up by the French, to refill
the inundations, but found to be ineffectual, and
now in part tumbled down the precipice : as the
river daily encroaches on the bluff, fome of the ha-
bitations are in danger, and mult be very foon re-
moved or fwallowed up in the deep gulph of waters.
A few of the buildings that have been eltablifhed
by the Englilh, fince taking poffeflion of the colo-
ny, are large and commodious, particularly the
warehoufes of Mefils. Swanfon & Co. Indian tra-
ders and merchants.

The Spaniards have a fmall fortrefs and garrifon
on the point of land below the Iberville, clofe by
the banks of the river, which has a communica-
tion with Manchac, by a (lender narrow wooden
bridge acrofs the channel of Iberville, fupported on
wooden pillars, and not a bow fhot from the habi-
tations of Manchac. The Iberville in die fummer

fealon

NORTH AMERICA.

427

feafon is dry, and its bed twelve or fifteen feet a-
bove the furface of the Mifliffippi; but in the winter
and fpring has a great depth of water, and a very
rapid ftream which flows into the Amite, thence
down through the lakes into the bay of Pearls to
the ocean.

Having recommendations to the inhabitants of
Batonrouge, now called New-Richmond, more than
forty miles higher up the river, one of diefe gentle-
men being prefent at Manchac, gave me a friendly
and polite invitation to accompany him on his re-
turn home. A pleafant morning; we fat off after
breakfaft, well accommodated in a handfome con-
venient boat, rowed by three blacks. Two miles
above Manchac we put in to fhore at Alabama : this
Indian village is delightfully fituated on feveral
fwelling green hills, gradually afcending from the
verge of the river : the people are a remnant of
the ancient Alabama nation, who inhabited the
Eaft arm of the great Mobile river, which bears
their name to this day, now poflefled by the Creeks
or Mufcogulges,who conquered the former.

My friend having purchafed fome bafkets and
earthen-ware, the manufaftures of the people, wc
left the village, and proceeding twelve miles higher
up the river, landed again at a very large and well
cultivated plantation, where we lodged all night.
Obferved growing in a fpacious garden adjacent to
the houfe, many ufeful as well as curious exotics,
particularly the delicate and fweetTube-rofe (Poly-
anthus tuberofa) ; it grows here in the open warden;
the flowers were very large and abundant°on the
Items, which were five, fix or feven feet high, but.
I faw none here having double flowers. In one cor-
ner of the garden was a pond or marfh, round about

which

4-8 TRAVELS Itf

which grew luxuriantly the Scotch grafs (Panicum
hirtellum, gramen panicum maximum, fpica divifa,
ariftis armatum, Sloan, Jam. Cat. p. 30): the peo-
ple introduced this valuable grafs from the Weft-
India iflands : they mow or reap it at any time, and
feed it green to cows or horfes ; it is nourishing
food for all cattle. The Humble plant (Mimofa
pudica) grows here five or fix feet high, rambling
like Brier vines over the fences and fhrubs, all
about the garden. The people here fay it is an in-
digenous plant, but this I doubt, as it is not feen
growing wild in the forefts and fields, and it differs
in no refpeCt from that which we protect in green
houfes and ftoves, except in the extent and luxuri-
ancy ef its branches, which may be owing to the
productive virgin mould and temperature of the
climate. They however pay no attention to its
culture, but rather condemn it as a noxious trou-
blefome weed, for wherever it gets footing, it
fpreads itfelf by its feed in fo great abundance as
to opprefs and even extirpate more ufeful vegeta-
bles.

Next day we likewife vifited feveral delightful
and fpacious plantations on the banks of the river,
during our progrefs upwards : in the evening ar-
rived at my friend’s habitation, a veiy delightful
villa, with extenfive plantations of Corn (Zea), In-
digo, Cotton and fome Rice.

A day or two after our arrival we agreed upon
a vifit to Point Coupe, a flourifhing French fettle -
ment on the Spanifh fhore of the Miffiffipi.

Early next morning we fet off in a neat Cyprefs
boat with three oars, proceeding up the river; and
by night got to. a large plantation near the White

cliffs.

NORTH AMERICA. 4^9

i

cliffs, now called Brown’s cliffs, in honour of the
late governor of Weft Florida, now of the Ba-
hama9 I (lands, who is proprietor of a large diftrift
of country, lying on and adjacent to the Cliffs.
At the time of my refidence with Mr. Rumfey
at Pearl ifland, governor Brown, then on his pal-
fage to his government of the Bahamas, paid Mr.
Rumfey a vifit, who politely introduced me to
his excellency, acquainting him with my character
and purfuits : he defired me to explore his territo-
ry, and give him my opinion of the quality of the
White plains.

Auguft 27th, 1777, having in readinefs horfes
well equipt, early in the morning we fet off for the
plains. About a mile from the river we crofted a
deep gully and fmall rivulet, then immediately en-
tered the Cane forefts, following a ftraight avenue
cut through them, off from the river, which conti-
nued about eight miles, the ground gradually but
imperceptibly rifing before us : when at once opened
to view expanftve plains, which are a range of native
graffy fields of many miles extent, lying parallel
with the river, furrounded and interfered with Cane
brakes and high forefts of (lately trees ; the foil
black, extremely rich and produftive, but the vir-
gin mould becomes thinner and lefs fertile as it
verges on to the plains, which are fo barren as
fcarcely to produce a bu(h or even grafs, in the mid-
dle or higheft parts. The upper ftratum or furface
of the earth is a whitifh clay or chalk, with veins of
fea (hells, chiefly of thofe little clams called les co-
quilles, or interfperfed with the white earth or clay,
fo tenacious and hard as to render it quite fteril ;
fcarcely any vegetable growth to be feen, except
(hort grafs, or cruftaceous modes ; and fome places
quite bare, where it is on the furface ■, but where it

lies

430

TRAVELS IN

\

lies from eighteen inches to two or three feet be-
low, it has the virtue of fertilizing the virgin
mould above, rendering it black, humid, foapy,
and incredibly produ&ive.

I obferved two or three fcrubby Pine trees or
rather dwarf bullies, upon the higheft ridge of
thefe plains, which are viewed here as a curiofity,
there being no Pine forefts within feveral leagues
diftance from the banks of this great river, but, on
the contrary, feemingly an endlefs wildernefs of
Canes, and the moll magnificent forefts of the
trees already noted, but particularly Platanus
occidentalis, Liriodendron,Magnoliagrandiflora,
Liqu dambar ftyraciflua, Juglans nigra, Juglans
exaltata, Tilea, Morus rub a, Gleditlia triacan-
thus, LaurusBorbonia, and Laurus fafiafras; this
laft grows here to a vaft tree, forty or fifty feet
ftraight trunk ; its timber is found to be ufeful,
fawn into boards and fcantling, or hewn into
polls for building and fencing.

On the more fertile borders of the plains, ad-
joining the furrounding forefts, are Sideroxylon,
Pyrus coronaria, and Strawberry vines (Fraga-
ria) but no fruit on them ; the inhabitants allured
me they bcre fruit in their feafon, very large,
of a fine red colour, delicious and fragrant.

Having made our tour and obfervations on the
White plains, we returned to the river at the dole
of the day, and next morning fat off for Point Cou-
pe: pafted under the high painted cliffs, and then
let our courfe acrofs the Mifliffippi, which is here
near two milesover : touched at a large illand near
the middle of the river, being led there, a little out

NORTH AMERICA. 431

of our way, in purfuit of a bear crofling from the
main, but he out-fwam us, reached the ifland,
and made a fafe retreat in the forefts entangled
with vines; we however purfued him on lhore,
but to no purpofe. After retting a while, we re-
embarked and continued on our voyage, coafting
the Eaft (hore of the ifland to the upper end ; here
we landed again, on an extended projecting point
of clean fand and pebbles, where were to be feen
pieces of coal flicking in the gravel and fand, to-
gether with other fragments of the foflil king-
dom, brought down by inundations and lodged
there. Weobferveda large kind of mufcleinthe
fand; the fhell of an oval form, having horns or
protuberances near half an inch in length and as
thick as a crow quill, which I fuppofe ferve the
purpofe of grapnels to hold their ground againft
the violence of the current. Here were great num-
bers of wild fowl wading in the flioal water that
covers the fandy points, to a vaft diflance from
the fliores : they were geefe, brant, gannet, and
the great and beautiful whooping crane (grusal-
ber.) Embarked again, doubled the point of the
ffland and arrived at Point Coupe in the evening.

We made our vifit to a French gentleman, an
ancient man and wealthy planter, who, according
to the hiftory he favoured us with of his own life
and adventures, muft have been very aged ; his
hair was of a filky white, yet his complexion was
florid and conftitution athletic. He faid that foon
after he came to America, with many families of
his countrymen, they afcended the river to the
Cliffs of the Natches, where they fat down, being
entertained by the natives; and under cover of a
ftrong fortrefs and garrifon, eftabliflied a fettle-
ment, and by cultivating the land and forming

1 plan-

TkAVELS IN

43 a

plantations, in league and friendfhip with the In-
dians, in a few years they became a populous,
rich and growing colony; when through the im-
prudent and tyrannical condudt of the command-
ant towards the Natches, the ancients of the
country, a very powerful and civilized nation of
red men, who were fovereigns of the foil, and
pofTeffed the country round about them, they be-
came tired of thefe comers, and exafperated qt
their cruelty and licentioufncfs, at length deter-
mining to revenge themfelves of fuch inhumanity
and ingratitude, fecretly confpired their deftruc-
tion ; and their meafures were fo well concerted
with other Indian tribes, that if it had not been
for the treachery of one of their princeffes, with
whom the commander was in favour (for by her
influence her nation attempted the deftruftion of
the fettlement, before theirauxiliariesjoined them,
which afforded an opportunity for fome few of
the fettlers toefcape), they would have fully ac-
complifhed their purpofe. However the fettle-
ment was entirely broken up, moft of the inhabi-
tants being flaughtered in one night, and the few
who efcaped betook themfelves to their canoes,
defeending the river until they arrived at this
place, where they eftablifhed themfelves again ;
and this gentleman had only time and opportu-
nity to take into his boat one heifer calf, which he
allured us was the mother of the numerous herds
he now poflefles, confiding of many hundred head.
Here is now a very refpedtable village, defended
by a Arong fortrel's and garrifon of Spaniards,
.the commander being governor of the diflritd.

The French here are able, ingenious and in-
duftrious planters : they live eafy and plentifully,
and are far more regular and commendable in the

enjoy-

STORTH AMERICA.’

433

enjoyment of their earnings than their neighbours
the Englifh : their drefs of their own manufac-
tures, well wrought and neatly made up, yet not
extravagant or foppilh ; manners and conven-
tion ealy, moral and entertaining.

Next morning we fat off again on our return
home, and called by the way at the Cliffs, which
is a perpendicular bank or bluff, rifing up out of
the river near one hundred feet above the prefent
furface of the water, whofe a&ive current fweeps
along by it. From eight or nine feet below the
loamy vegetative mould at top, to within four or
five feet of the water, thefe cliffs prefent to view
ftrata of clay, marie and chalk, of all colours, as
brown, red, yellow, white, blue and purple ; there
are feparate ftrata of thefe various colours, as well
as mixed or particoloured : the loweft ftratum
next the water is exaCtly of the fame black mud
or rich foil as the adjacent low Cyprefs fwamps,
above and below the bluff; and here in the cliffs
we fee vaft flumps of Cyprefs and other trees,
which at this day grow in thefe low, wet fwamps,
and which range on a level with them. Thefe
flumps are found, ftand upright, and feem to be
rotted off about two or three feet above the fpread
of their roots ; their trunks, limbs, &c. lie in all
directions about them. But when thefe fwampy
forefts were growing, and by what caufe they
were cut off' and overwhelmed by the various
ftrata of earth, which now rife near one hundred
feet above, at the brink of the cliffs, and two or
three times that height but a few hundred yards
back, are enquiries perhaps not eafily anfwered.
The fwelling heights rifing gradually over and
beyond this precipice are now adorned with high
forefts of ftately Magnolia, Liquidambar, Fagus,

f Quercus,

TRAVELS IN

' 434

Quercus, Laurus, Morus, Juglans, Tilia, Ha-
lefia, ^Elculus, Callicarpa, Liriodendron, &c.
Arrived in the evening at the plantation below
the Cliffs, and the next day got fafe back to my,
friend’s habitation.

Obferved few vegetable productions different
from what grow in Carolina and Georgia ; per-
haps in the lpringand early fummer feafon, here
may be fome new plants, particularly in the high
forefts and ridges, at fome diftance from the ri-
ver : there is however growing in the rich high
lands, near on the banks of the river, which I ob-
ferved in the fettlement of Baton Rouge, an ar-
borefcent aromatic vine, which mounts to the tops
of the higheft trees, by twilling or writhing fpir-*
ally round them ; fome of thefe vines are as
thick as a man’s leg, of a foft fpungy texture,
and flexible, covered with a Cinnamon coloured
bark, which is highly aromatic or fpicy. The
large oblong leaves fit oppofite on the branches,
and are of a full deep green colour; but its fea-
fon of flowering being pall, and the feed Matter-
ed, I am entirely ignorant to what genus it be-
longs ; perhaps it is a non-defcript or new genus.
Here is likewife a new and beautiful fpccies of
Verbena, with decumbent branches and lacerat-
ed deep green leaves ; the branches terminate
with corymbi of violet blue flowers : this pretty
plant grows in old fields where there is a good
foil.

The fevere diforder in my eyes fubverted the
plan of my peregrinations, and contracted the
i'pan of my pilgrimage South-Wellward. This
difappointment affeCted me very fenfibly, but re-
fignation and reafon reluming their empire over

my

NORTH AMERICA. 435

my mind, I fubmitted, and determined to return
co Carolina.

Receiving information that the company’s
fchooner was ready toTail for Mobile, I embarked
on board a trading boat for Manchac, where ar-
riving in the evening, I took leave next morning
of Meflrs. Swanfon and Co. and fet off for the
forks of the Amite, and next day fat fail, de-
fending the tardy current of the Amite. Ob-
ferving two bears eroding the river a-head,
though our pieces were ready charged, and the
yawl along fide to receive us, we purfued them
in vain, they fwam fwifely acrofs and efcaped in
the forefts on the ifland of Orleans. The breeze
dying away at evening, we came to anchor, and
had variety of amufements at fifhing and fowling.

Next day, November 13th, 1777, with a fteady
leading breeze, entered and failed over the lake
Maurepas, and through the {freights into the
Pontchartrain, and continued under fail; but at
midnight, by keeping too near the Weft fliore,
we ran aground on a fand-bar, where we lay
beating the hard fandy bottom until morning,
and our yawl parting from us in the night, which
we never recovered, we were left to the mercy of
the winds and floods ; but before noon the wind
coming brifkly from North-Eaft, driving the fea
into the lake, we got off, made fail again, and
before night pafled through the Regullets, en-
tering the ocean through the bay of Pearls, fail-
ing through the found betwixt Cat ifland and the
ftrand of the continent ; pa fling by the beautiful
bay St. Louis, into which defeend many delight-
ful rivers, which flow from the lower or maritime
fettlements of the Chaftaws or Flatheads. Con-
tinuing through the found between the oyfter

F f 2 banks

^6 TRAVELS IN

banks and fhoals of Ship and Horn Hands, and
the high and bold coaft of Biloxi on the main,
cot through the narrow pafs Aux Chnftians, an
loon came up abreaft of Ifle Dauphin, betwixt
whofe fhoals and the Weft Cape of Mobile Bay
we got aground on fome funken oyfter banks ,
but next day a brifk Southerly wind raifed the
lea on the coaft, which lifted us off again, and
letting fail, we lliot through the Pafs au Oleion,
and entering the bay, by night came to anchor
fafe again at the city of Mobile.

After having made up my collections of gi*ow-
ino- roots, feeds and curious fpecimens, left them
to^the care of Meffrs. Swanfon and M‘Gillavry,
to be forwarded to Dr. Fothergill of London. 1
prepared to fet off again to Augufta in Georgia,
through the Creek Nation, the only prafticable
way of returning by land, being frustrated of
purfuing my intended rout which I had meditat-
ed through the territories of the Siminoles or
Lower Creeks, they being a treacherous people,
lyino- fo far from the eye and controul of the na-
tion with whom they are confederate, that there
had lately been depredations and murders com-
mitted by them at the bay of Apalache, on fome
families of white people who were migrating from
Georgia, with an intention of fettling on the
Mobile. Having to pafs the dlftan^ of ^ea
two hundred miles to the firft own of the na-
tion through a folitary, uninhabited w ldernefs,
the bloody held of Schambe where t hofe in-
tending bands of American bravos Creek and

Chaftaws, often meet in dire conflnft, ior '

better convenience and fecurity, 1 joine
pany with a caravan of traders, now about let-
ting oft for the nation.

Obferved

NORTH AMERICA.

437

Obferved growing in a garden in Mobile, two
large trees of the Juglans pecan, and the Diof-
corea bulbifera : this lad curious plant bears a
large kidney fhaped root, one, two or three at
the bofom of the leaves, feveral feet from the
ground, as they climb up poles or fupports fet by
their roots ; thefe roots when boiled or roafted
are efteemed a pleafant wholefome food, and tafte
like the ordinary Yam.

Ff 3

CHAP.

TRAVELS IN

4j3

CHAP. VIII.

November 27th, 1777, fat off from Mobile,
in a large boat with the principal trader of the
company, and at evening arrived at Taenfa, where
were the pack-horfemen with the merchandize,
and next morning as foon as we had our horfes
in readinefs, I took my laft leave of Major Far-
mer, and left Taenfa. Our caravan confifted of
between twenty and thirty horfes, fixteen of
which were loaded, two pack-horfemen, and my-

felf, under the direction of Mr. Tap y the

chief trader. One of our young men was a
Muftee Creek, his mother being aChadtaw flave,
and his father a half breed, betwixt a Creek and
a white man. I loaded one horfewith my effedts,
fome prefents to the Indians, to enable me to pur-
chafe a frefh horfe, in cafe of neceffity ; for my
old trufty flave which had ferved me faithfully al-
moft three years, having carried me on his back at
leaf!: lix thoufand miles, was by this time almoffc
worn out, and I expedted every hour he would give
up, efpecially after I found the manner of thefe
traders’ travelling. They feldom decamp until the
fun is high and hot ; each one having a whip
made of the toughed; cow-fkin, they dart all at
once, the horfes having ranged themfelves in re-
gular Indian file, the veteran in the van, and the
younger in the rear; then the chief drives with
the crack of his whip, and a whoop or fliriek,
which rings through the foreftsand plains, fpeaks
in Indian, commanding them to proceed, which
is repeated by all the company, when we ftart
at once, keeping up a briik and conftant trot,
2 . which

NORTH AMERICA.

439

which is inceffantly urged and continued as long
as the miferable Greatures are able to move for-
ward ; and then come to camp, though fre-
quently in the middle of the afternoon, which is
the pleafantefl time of the day for travelling:
and every horfe has a bell on, which being flop-
ped when we flart in the morning with a twift of
grafs or leaves, foon fhakes out, and they are
never flopped again during the day. The con-
ftant ringing and clattering of the bells, fmack-
ing of the whips, whooping and too frequent
curling thefe miferable quadrupeds, caufe an in-
ceffant uproar and confufion, inexpreffibly difa-
greeable.

After three days travelling in this mad man-
ner, my old fervant was on the point of giving
out, and feveral of the company’s horfes were
tired, but were relieved of their burthens by the
led horfes which attended for that purpofe. I
was now driven to difagreeable extremities, and
had no other alternative, but either to leave my
horfe in the woods, pay a very extravagant hire
for a doubtful paffage to the Nation, or feparate
myfelf from my companions, and wait the reco-
very of my horfe alone : the chief gave me no
other comfortable advice in this dilemma, than
that, there was a company of traders on the road
a-head of us from the Nation, to Mobile, who
had a large gang of led horfes with them for fale,
when they fhould^arrive ; and expefted from the
advice which he had received at Mobile before
we fet off from thence, that this company mull
be very near to us, and probably would be up
to-morrow, or at leafl in two or three days : and
this man',condefcended fo far as to moderate a
little his mode of travelling, that I might have a

F f 4 chance

440

TRAVELS IN

chance of keeping up with them until the even-
ing of next day ; befides I had the comfort of
obferving that the traders and pack-horfcmen
carried themfelves towards me with evident figns
of humanity and friendfhip, often expreffing fen-
timents of fympathy, and faying I mull not be
left alone to perifh in the wildernefs.

Although my apprehenfions on this occafion
were fomewhat tumultuous, fnce there was little
hope, on the principle of reafon, fhould I be left
alone, of efcaping cruel captivity, and perhaps
being murdered by the Chadtaws (for the com-
pany of traders was my only fecurity, as the
Indians never attack the traders on the road,
though they be trading with nations at enmity
with them) yet I had fecret hopes of relief and
deliverance, that cheered me, and infpired con-
fidence and peace of mind.

Now I am come within the atmofphere of the
Illicium groves, how reanimating is the fra-
grance ! every part of this plant above ground
pofTefTes an aromatic feent, but the large (filiated
pericarpe is the mod fragrant part of it, which
continually perfpires an oleagenous fvveat, as
warm and vivific as cloves or mace. I never faw
it grow naturally further North than Lat. 330,
on the Mobile river and its branches, and but
one place in Laft Florida near Lake George,
Lat. 28°.

About the middle of the afternoon, we were
joyfully furprifed at the diftant profpedt of the
trading company coming up, and we foon met,
faluting each other feveral times with a general
Indian whoop, or fhout of friendfhip ; then each
company came to camp within a few paces of

KORTH AMERICA.

44 1

each other; and before night I ftruck up a bar-
gain with them for a handfome ftrong young
horfe, which coft me about ten pounds iterling.

I was now conftrained to leave my old flave be-
hind, to feed in rich cane paftures, where he was
to remain and recruit until the return of his new
mafter from Mobile ; from whom I extorted a
promife to ufe him gently, and if poffible, not to
make a pack-horfe of him.

Next morning we decamped, proceeding again
on my travels, now alert and cheerful. Crofled a
brifk rivulet ripling over a gravelly bed, and
winding through aromatic groves of the Illicium
Floridanum, then gently defcended to the high
forelts, leaving Deadman’s creek, for at this
creek a white man was found dead, fupppfed to
have been murdered, from which circumftanc?
it has its name.

A few days before we arrived at the Nation,
we met a company of emigrants from Georgia ;
a man, his wife, a young woman, feveral young
children, and three flout young men, with about
a dozen horfes loaded with their property. They
informed us their defign was to fettle on the
Alabama, a few miles above the confluence of
the Tombigbe.

Being now near the Nation, the chief trader
with another of our company fat off a-head for
his town, to give notice to the Nation, as he faid,
of his approach with the merchandize, each of
them taking the befl horfe they could pick out
of the gang, leaving the goods to the conduit
and care of the young Muflee and mvfelf. Early
in the evening we came to the banks’ of a large
deep creek, a confiderable branch of the Ala-
bama :

44* ‘

TRAVELS IN

bama : the waters ran furioufly, being over-
charged with the floods of rain which had fallen
the day before. We difcovered immediately that
there was no poflibility of croffing it by fording ;
its depth and rapidity would have fwept our
horfes, loads and all, inftantly from our fight •:
my companion, after confideration, faid we muft
make a raft to ferry over our goods, which we
immediately fet about, after unloading our horfes
and turning them out to range. I undertook to
colledt dry canes, and my companion, dry timber
or logs and vines to bind them together : having
gathered the necelfary materials, and laid them
in order on the brinks of the river, ready to work
upon, we betook ourfelves to repofe, and early
next morning fat about building our raft. This
was a novel fcene to me, and I could not, until
finifhed and put to practice, well comprehend
how it could polfibly anfwer the effedt defired.
In the firft place we laid, parallel to each other,
dry, found trunks of trees, about nine feet in
length, and eight or nine inches diameter; which
binding fall together with grape vines and withs,
until we had formed this firft floor, about twelve
or fourteen feet in length, we then bound the
dry canes in bundles, each near as thick as a
man’s body, with which we formed the upper
ftratum, laying them clofe by the fide of each
other and binding them faft : after this manner
our raft was conftrudted. Then having two
ftrong grape vines, each long enough to crofs
the river, we fattened one to each end of the
raft ; which now being completed, and loading
on as much as it would fafely carry, the Indian
took the end of one of the vines in his mouth,
plunged into the river and fvvam over with it, and
the vine fixed to the other end was committed to

NORTH AMERICA.

443

my charge, to fteady the raft and haul it back
again after being unloaded. As foon as he had
fafe landed and hauled taught his vine, I pufhed
off the raft, which he drew over as quick as pof-
fible, I fteadying it with my vine : in this man-
ner, though with inexpreffible danger of lofing
our effedts, we ferried all fafe over. The laft
load, with other articles, contained my property,
with all my clothes, which I ftripped off, ex-
cept my breeches, for they contained matters of
more value and confequence than all the reft
of my property put together ; betides I did not
choofe to expofe myfelf entirely naked to the
alligators and ferpents in eroding the flood. Now
feeing all the goods fafe over, and the horfes at a
landing place on the banks of the river about
fifty yards above, I drove them all in together,
when, feeing them fafe landed, I plunged in
after them, and being a tolerable fwimmer, foon
reached the oppofite fhore. But my difficulties
at this place were not yet at an end, for our
horfes all landed juft below the mouth of a con
fiderable branch of this river, of fifteen or twenty
feet width, and its perpendicular banks almoft
as many feet in height above its fwift waters,
over which we were obliged to carry every article
of our effedts, and this by no other bridge than
a fapling felled acrofs it, which is called a rac-
coon bridge ; and over this my Indian friend
would trip as quick and light as that quadruped,
with one hundred weight of leather on his back,
when I was fcarcely able to fhuffle myfelf along
over it aftride. At laft having re-packed and fat
off again, without any material occurrence inter-
vening, in the evening we arrived at the banks
of the great Tall;tpoofe river, and came to camp
under lhelter of fome Indian cabins, in expanfive

, fields.

444

TRAVELS IN

fields, clofe to the river bank, oppofite the town
of Savannuca. Late in the evening a young
white man, in great hade and Teeming confu-
fion, joined our camp, who immediately related,
that being on his journey from Penfacola, it
happened that the very night after we had paffed
the company of emigrants, he met them and
joined their camp in the evening ; when, juft at
dark, the Cha&aws furrounded them, plundered
their camp, and carried all the people off cap-
tive, except himlelf, he having the good fortune
to efcape with his horfe, though ciofely purfued.

Next morning very early, though very cold
and the furface of the earth as hoary as if cover-
ed with a fall of inow, the trader ftanding on the
oppofite fhore entirely naked, except a breech-
clout, and encircled by a company of red men in
the like habit, hailed us, and prefently, with
canoes, brought us all over with the merchan-
dize, and condufted us fafe to the town of
Mucclaffe, a mile or two diftant.

The next day was a day of reft and audience :
the following was devoted to feafting, and the
evening concluded in celebrating the nuptials of
the young Muftee with a Creek girl of Muc-
clalle, daughter of the chief and fifter to our
trader’s wife. The trader’s houfe and ftores
formed a compleat fquare, after the mode of the
habitations of the Mufcogulges, that is, four
oblong buildings of equal dimenfions, two op-
pofite to each other, encompafting an area of
about a quarter of an acre; on one fide of this
a fence enclofed a yard of near an acre of ground,
at one of the farther corners of which a booth or
pavilion was formed of green boughs, having
two Laurel trees planted in front (Magnolia

i grandi-

NORTH AMERICA.

i

445

grandiflora). This was the fecret nuptial cham-
ber. Dancing, raufic and feafting continued the
forepart of the night, and towards morning the
happy couple privately withdrew, and continued
alone all the next day, no one prefuming to ap-
proach the facred, myfterious thalame.

The trader obliged me with his company on a
vifit to the Alabama, an Indian town at the con-
fluence of the two fine rivers, the Tallapoofe and
Coofau, which here refign their names to the
great Alabama, where are to be feen traces of
the ancient French fortrefs, Thouloufe ; here are
yet lying, half buried in the earth, a few pieces
of ordnance, four and fix pounders. I obferved,
in a very thriving condition, two or three very
large apple trees, planted here by the French.
This is, perhaps, one of the molt eligible fitu-
ations for a city in the world ; a level plain be-
tween the conflux of two majeftic rivers, which
are exadtly of equal magnitude in appearance,
each navigable for veflels and perriauguas at
lead; five hundred miles above it, and fpreading
their numerous branches over the moft fertile
and delightful regions, many hundred miles be-
fore we reach their fources in the Apalachean
mountains.

Stayed all night at Alabama, where we had a
grand entertainment at the public fquare, with
mufic and dancing, and returned next day to
Mucclafle ; where being informed of a company
of traders about fetting off from Tuckabatche for
Augufta, I made a vifit to that town to know the
truth of it, but on my arrival there they were
gone ; but being informed of another caravan
who were to ftart from the Otiafle town in two

or

TRAVELS IN

446

or three weeks time, I returned to Mucclaffe in
order to prepare for my departure.

On my arrival, I was not a little furprifed at a
tragical revolution in the family of my friend the
trader, his (lores (hut up, and guarded by a party
of Indians : in a few minutes however, the whole
affair was related to me. It appeared that this
Ion of Adonis, had been detected in an amorous
intrigue, with the wife of a young chief, the day
after his arrival : the chief was out on a hunt,
but arrived next day ; and upon information of
the affair, the fad being confirmed, he with his
friends and kindred refolved to exad legal fatis-
fadtion, which in this cafe is cutting off both ears
of the delinquent, clofe to the head, which is
called cropping. This being determined upon,
he took the mod fecret and effedual methods to
effed his purpofe. About a dozen young Indian
fellows, conduded by their chief (the injured
hufband), having provided and armed them-
ielves with knotty cudgels of green Hiccory,
which they concealed under their mantles, in the
du(k of the evening paid a pretended friendly
vifit to the trader at his own houl'e, when the
chief feigning a private matter of bufinefs, took
him afide in the yard ; then whiffling through
his fingers (the fignal preconcerted) he was in-
ftantly furrounded, knocked down, and then
dripped to his (kin, and beaten with their knotty
bludgeons ; however he had the fubtilty to feign
himfelf fpeechlefs before they really killed him,
which he fuppofed was their intention : when he
had now lain for dead, the executioner drew out
his knife with an intention of taking off his ears :
this finall refpite gave him time to reflect a little ;

when

NORTH AMERICA.

447

when he indantly fprang up, ran ofF, leaped the
fence, and had the good fortune to get into a
dark fwamp, overgrown with vines and thickets,
where he miraculoufly eluded the earned re-
fearches of his enemies, and finally made a fafe
retreat to the houfe of his father-in-law, the chief
of the town, throwing himfelf under his pro-
teftion, who gave his word that he would do
him all the favour that lay in his power. This
account I had from his own mouth, for hearing
of my return, the next morning after my arrival,
he fent a trufty meffenger, by whom I found
means of accefs to him. He farther informed
me, that there had been a council of the chiefs
of the town convened, to deliberate on the affair,
and their final determination was that he mud
lofe his ears, or forfeit all his goods, which
amounted to upwards of one thoufand pounds
derling, and even that forfeiture would not fave
his ears, unlefs Mr. Golphin interpofed in his
behalf ; and after all, the injured Indian declares
that he will have his life. He entreated me with
tears to make what fpeed I could to Silver Bluff,
reprefent his dangerous iituation to Mr. Gol-
phin, and folicit that gentleman’s mod fpeedy
and effectual interference ; which 1 affured him
1 would undertake.

Now having all things prepared for my depar-
ture, early in the morning, after taking leave of
my didreffed friend the trader of Mucclaffe, I
fat off ; paffed through continued plantations
and Indian towns on my way up the Tallapoofe
river, being every where treated by the inhabi-
tants with marks of friendlhip, even as though I
had been their countryman and relation. Called
by the way at the beautiful town of Coolome,

where

TRAVELS IN

44S

where I tairicd Tome time with JVTr. Germany
the chief trader of the town, an elderly gentle-
man, but active, cheerful and very agreeable,
who received and treated me with the utmoft
civility and friendfhip : his wife is a Creek wo-
man, of a very amiable and worthy character and
difpofition, induftrious, prudent and affectionate ;
and by her he had feveral children, whom he is
defirous to fend to Savanna or Charlefton, for
their education, but cannot prevail on his wife
to confent to it : this affair affedts him very fen-
libly, for he has acumulated a pretty fortune by
his induftry and commendable conduct.

Leaving Coolome, I re-croffed the river at
Tuccabache, an ancient and large town ; thence
continued up the river, and at evening arrived
at Attaffe, where I continued near a week, wait-
ing the preparations of the traders, with whom I
was to join in company to Augufta.

The next day after my arrival, I was introduced
to the ancient chiefs, at the public fquare or
areopagus ; and in the evening, in company
with the traders, who are numerous in this town,
repaired to the great rotunda, where were affem-
bled the greateft number of ancient venerable
chiefs and warriors that I had ever beheld : we
l'penu the evening and greater part of the night
together, in drinking Caffine and fmoking
Tobacco. The great council houfe or rotunda
is appropriated to much the fame purpofe as the
public fquare, but more private, and feems par-
ticularly dedicated to political affairs ; women
and youth are never admitted ; and I fuppofe
it is death for a female to prefume to enter the
door, or approach within its pale. It is a vaft
conical building or circular dome, capable of

accommo-

I

NORTH AMERICA.

449

accommodating many hundred people ; con-
ftrucfed and furnifhed within, exactly in the
fame manner as thofe of the Cherokees already
defcribed, but much larger than any I had feen
of them : there are people appointed to take care
of it, to have it daily Iwept clean, and to pro-
vide canes for fuel, or to give light.

As their virgils and manner of conducting their*
vefpers and myftical fire in this rotunda, are ex-
tremely lingular, and altogether different from
the cuftoms and ufages of any other people, I
fhall proceed to defcribe them. In the firft place,
the governor or officer who has the management
of this bufinefs, with his fervants attending; or-
ders the black drink to be brewed, which is a
decodtion or infufion of the leaves and tender
Ihoots of the Caffine : this is done under an open
fliecl or pavilion, at twenty or thirty yards di-
flance, diredtly oppofite the door of the council-
houfe. Next he orders bundles of dry canes to
be brought in : thefe are previoufly fplit and.
broken in pieces to about the length of two feet,
and then placed obliquely croflways upon one
another on the floor, forming a fpiral circle
round about the great centre pillar, riling to a
foot or eighteen inches in height from the
ground; and this circle fpreading as it proceeds
round and round, often repeated from right to
left, every revolution encreafes its diameter, and
at length extends to the di fiance of ten or twelve
. feet from the centre, more or lefs, according to
the length of time the aflembly or meeting is to
continue. By the time thefe preparations are
accomplifhed, it is night, and the alfembly have
taken their feats in order. The exterior extre-
mity or outer end of the fpiral circle takes fire
' ' Gg and

45°

TRAVELS T?f

and immediately rifes into a bright flame (blit
how this is effected I did not plainly apprehend ;
I faw no perfon fet fire to it ; there might have
been fire left on the earth, however I neither faw
nor fmelt fire or fmoke until the blaze indantly
afcended upwards), which gradually and flowly
creeps round the centre pillar, with the courfe of
the fun, feeding on the dry canes, and affords a
cheerful, gentle and fufficient light until the
circle is confumed, when the council breaks up.
Soon after this illumination takes place, the aged
chiefs and warriors are feated on their cabins or
fophas, on the fide of the houfe oppofite the
door, in three claffes or ranks, rifing a little, one
above or behind the other ; and the white peo-
ple and red people of confederate towns in the
like order on the left hand ; a tranfverfe range
of pillars, fupporting a thin clay wall about
bread high, feparating them r the king’s cabin
or feat is in front ; the next to the back of it the
head warrior’s; and the third or laft accommo-
dates the young warriors, &c. The great war
chief’s feat or place is on the fame cabin with,
and immediately to the left hand of the king,
anil next to the white people ; and to the right
hand of the mice or king the mod venerable
head-men and warriors are feated. The affembly
being now feated in order, and the houfe illu-
minated, two middle aged men, who' perform the
office of Haves or fervants, pro tempore, come in
together at the door, each having very large
conch fhells full of black drink, and advance
with flow, uniform and deady deps, their eyes or
countenances lifted up, finging very low but
fweetly ; they come within lix or eight paces of
the king’s and white people’s cabins, when they
dop together, and each rclls his fhell on a tripos

or

NORTH AMERICA.

45 1

or little table, but prefently takes it tip again,
and, bowing very low, advances obfequioufly,
eroding or interfering each other about mid-
way : he who refted his fhell before the white
people now ftands before the king, and the other
who (topped before the king ftands before the
white people; when each prefents his fhell, one
to the king and the other to the chief of the
white people, and as foon as he raifes it to his
mouth, the (lave utters or lings two notes, each
of which continues as long as he has breath ;
and as long as thefe notes continue, fo long muft
the perfon drink, or at lead keep the (hell to his
mouth. Thefe two long notes are very folemn,
and at once ftrike the imagination with a reli-
gious awe or homage to the Supreme, founding
fomewhat like a-hoo — ojah and a-lu — yah. After
this manner the whole affembly are treated, as
long as the drink and'light continue to hold out ;
and as foon as the drinking begins, tobacco and
pipes are brought. The (kin of a wild cat or
young tyger ftuffed with tobacco is brought,
and laid at the king’s feet, with the great or royal
pipe beautifully adorned ; the (kin is ufually of
the animals of the king’s family or tribe, as the
wild-cat, otter, bear, rattle-fnake, &c. A (kin
of tobacco is likewife brought and caft at the
feet of the white chief of the town, and from him
it paffes from one to another to fill their pipes
from, though each perfon has befides his own
peculiar (kin of tobacco. The king or chief
fmokes firft in the great pipe a few whiffs, blow-
ing it off ceremonioufly, firft towards the fun, or
as it is generally fuppofed to the Great Spirit, for
it is puffed upwards, next towards the four car-
dinal points, then towards the white people in
the ho ufe ; then the great pipe is taken from the

G g 2 hand

TRAVELS IN

452

hand of the mico by a Have, and prefented to the
chief white man, and then to the great war chief,
whence it circulates through the rank of head
men and warriors, then returns to the king. After
this each one fills his pipe from his own or his
neighbour’s ikin.

The great or public fquare generally (lands
alone, in the centre and higheft part of the
town : it confifts of four-fquare or cubical build-
ings, or houfes of one (lory, uniform, and of the
fame dimenfions, fo fituated as to form an exadt
tetragon, encompafling an area of half an acre of
ground, more or lei's, according to the llrength
or large’nefs of the town, or will of the inhabi-
tants : there is a palfage or avenue at each corner
of equal width : each building is conllrudted of
a wooden frame fixed ftrongly in the earth, the
walls filled in, and neatly plaillered with clay
mortar ; clofe on three fides, that is the back and
two ends, except within about two feet of the
wall plate or eves, which is left open for the pur-
pofe of a window and to admit a free palfage of
the air ; the front or fide next to the area is quite
open like a piazza. One of thefe buildings is
properly the council houfe, where the mico,
chiefs, and warriors, with the citizens who have
bufinefs, or choofe to repair thither, alfemble
every day in council, to hear, decide and re&ify
all grievances, complaints and contentions, arifi'
ing betwixt the citizens ; give audience to am-
bafladors, and ftrangers ; hear news and talks
from confederate towns, allies or diftant nations ;
confult about the particular affairs of the town,
as erecting habitations for new citizens, or eftab-
lifhing young families, concerning agriculture,
&c. This building is fomewhat different from

the

NORTH AMERICA.

453

the other three : it is clofely fhut up on three
fides, that is, the back and two ends, and
belides, a partition wall longitudinally from end
to end divides it into two apartments, the back
part totally dark, only three fmall arched aper-
tures or holes opening into it from the front
apartment or piazza, and little larger than juft to
admit a man to crawl in upon his hands and
knees. This fecluded place appears to me to be
defigned as a fan&uary* dedicated to religion,
or rather prieft craft ; for here are depofited all
the facred things, as the phylic pot, rattles, chap-
lets of deer’s hoofs and other apparatus of con-
juration ; and likewife the calumet or great pipe
of peace, the imperial ftandard, or eagle’s tail,
which is made of the feathers of the white eagle’s
tail -j~ curioufly formed and difplayed like an
open fan on a feeptre or ftaff, as white and clean
as poffible when difplayed for peace, but when
for war, the feathers are painted or tinged with
vermillion. The piazza or front of this building,
is equally divided into three apartments, by two
tranlverfe walls or partitions, about breaft high,
each having three orders or ranges of feats or ca-
bins ftepping one above and behind the other,
which accommodate the fenate and audience, in
the like order as obferved in the rotunda. The
other three buildings which compofe the fquare,
are alike furnifhed with three ranges of cabins or
fophas, and ferve for a banqueting-houfe, to
fhelter and accommodate the audience and fpec-
tators at all times, particularly at feafts or public
entertainments, where all dalles of citizens refort

* Sandtorium or facred temple ; and it is faid to be death for any perfon
but the mico, war-chief and high prieft to enter in, and none arc admitted
hut by permillion of thg j>riefts, who guard it day and night.

•f Vultur facra.

G g 3 day

TRAVELS IN

454

day and night in the fummer or moderate feai'on ;
the children and females however are feldom or
never feen in the public fquare.

The pillars and walls of the houfes of the
fquare are decorated with various paintings and
fculptures ; which I fuppofe to be hieroglyphic,
and as an hiftoric legendary of political and fa-
cerdotal affairs : but they are extremely pi&u-
refque or caricature, as men in variety of atti-
tudes, fome ludicrous enough, others having the
head of fome kind of animal, as thofe of a duck,
turkey, bear, fox, wolf, buck, &c. and again
thofe kind of creatures are reprefented having
the human head. Thefe defigns are not ill exe-
cuted ; the outlines bold, free and well propor-
tioned. The pillars fupporting the front or piazza
of the council-houfe of the fquare, are ingeni-
oufly formed in the likenels of vaft fpeckled fer-
pents, alcending upwards ; the Ottalfes being of
the fnake family or tribe. At this time the town
was faffing, taking medicine, and I think I may
fay praying, to avert a grievous calamity of fick-
nefs, which had lately afflicted them, and laid in
the grave abundance of their citizens. They faff
feven or eight days, during which time they eat
or drink nothing but a meagre gruel, made of a
little corn-flour and water ; taking at the fame
time by way of medicine or phyfic, a ftrong de-
coction of the roots of the Iris verficolor, which
is a powerful carthartic : they hold this root in
'high eflimation, every town cultivates a little
plantation of it, having a large artificial pond,
juft without the town, planted and almoff over-
grown with it, where they ulually dig clay for
pottery, and mortar and plafler for their build-
ings, and I obferved where they had lately been
digging up this root. jn

NORTH AMERICA.

4 56

In the midfl of a large oblong'fquare adjoin-
ing this town (which was furrounded with a low
bank or terrace) is Handing a high pillar, round
like a pin or needle ; it is about forty feet in
height, and between two and three feet in dia-
meter at the earth, gradually tapering upwards
•to a point; it is one piece of pine wood, and
arifes from the centre of alow, circular, artificial
hill, but it leans a little to one fide. 1 inquired
of the Indians and traders what it was deligned
for, who anfwered they knew not : the Indians
laid that their ancedors found it in the fame
fituation, when they fil'd arrived and pofielfed
the country, adding, that the red men or Indians,
then the pofieflors, whom they vanquilhed, were
as ignorant as themfelves concerning it, laying
that their ancedors likewife found it Handing fo.
This monument, fimple as it is, may be worthy
the obfervations of a traveller, fince it naturally
excites at lead the following queries : for what
purpole was it defigned ? its great antiquity and
incorruptibility — what method or machines they
employed to bring it to the fpot, and how they
raifed it eredt ? There is no tree or fpecies of the
pine, whofe wood, i. e. fo large a portion of the
trunk, is fuppofed to be incorruptible, expoled
in the open air to all weathers, but the long-
leaved Pine (Pin. paludris), and there is none
growing within twelve or fifteen miles of this
place, that tree being naturally produced only
on the high, dry, barren ridges, where there i$
a fandy foil and gralfy wet favannas. A great
number of men uniting their drength, probably
•carried it to the place on handfpik.es, or fome
fuch contrivance.

On the Sabbath day before I fet off from this
G g 4 place,

TRAVELS IN

456

place, I could not help obferving the folemnity
of the town, the filence and the retirednefs of the
red inhabitants ; but a very few of them were to
be ieen, the doors of their dwellings flmt, and if
a child chanced to dray out, it was quickly drawn
in doors again. I afked the meaning of this, and
was immediately anfwered, that it being the white
people’s beloved day or Sabbath, the Indians
kept it religioufly facred to the Great Spirit.

Laft night was clear and cold, wind North
Weft, and this morning, January 2d, 1788, the
face of the earth was perfectly white with a
beautiful fparkling frofl. Sat off for Augufta
with a company of traders, four men with about
thirty horfes, twenty of which were loaded with
leather and furs, each pack or load fuppofed to
weigh one hundred and fifty pounds upon an
average. In three days we arrived at the Apa-
lachucla or Chata Uche river ; croffedat the point
towns Chehaw and Ufleta : thefe towns almoft
join each other, yet fpeak two languages, as ra-
dically different perhaps as the Mulcogulge’s and
Chinefe, After leaving the river we met with
nothing material, or worth particular obferva-
tion, until our arrival at Oakmulge, towards e-
vening, where we encamped in expanfive ancient
Indian fields, in view of the foaming flood of the
river, now raging over its banks. Here were two
companies of traders from Augufta, bound to the
Nation, confiding of fifteen or twenty men, with
feventy or eighty horfes, mod of which had their
loads of merchandize : they eroded the river this
morning and lod fix horfes in the attempt ; they
were drowned, being entangled in the vines un-
der water at landing. But the river now falling
again, we were in hopes that by next morning

NORTH AMERICA. 45

the waters would be again confined within the
banks. We immediately fiat about rigging our
portable leather boat, about eight feet long,
which was of thick foal leather* folded up and
carried on the top of a pack of deer-lkins. The
people foon got her rigged, which was effected
after the following manner. We, in the firft
place, cut down a White-Oak fapling, and by
notching this at each end, bent it up, which
formed the keel, ftem and ftern poft of one
piece ; this was placed in the bottom of the boat,
and pretty ftrong hoop-poles being fixed in the
bottom acrofs the keel, turning up their ends,
expanded the hull of the boat, which being fatt-
ened by thongs to two other poles bent round,
the outfide of the rim formed the gunwhales :
thus in an hour’s time our bark was rigged, to
which afterwards we added two little oars or
fculls. Our boat being now in readinefs, and our
horfes turned out to pafture, each one retired to
repofe, or to fuch exercife as molt effetttually
contributed to divert the mind. I was at this
time rather dejeitted, and fought comfort in re-
tirement, turning my courfe to the expanfive
fields, fragrant groves and fublime forefts. Re-
turned to camp by dulk, where I found my com-
panions cheerful and thoughtlefs rather to an ex-
treme. It was a calm ftill evening and warm ;
the wood-cock (fcolopax) chirruping high up
in the air, gently defeends by a fpiral circular
tract, and alights on the humid plain : this bird
appears in Pennfylvania early in the fpring, when
the Elm and Maple begin to flower; and here
thefcarlet Maple, I^lm and Elder began tofhow
their flowers ; the yellow Jafmin was iuft ready
to open its fragrant golden blofloms, and the gay
Azalea alfo preparing to expand its beauties.

The

TRAVELS IN

45 s

The morning cool and pleafant : after recon»
noitering the Ihores of the rivers, and confulting
with our brethern in diftrefs, who had not yet
decamped, refolving today and lend their affift-
ance in paffing over this rapid gulph, we were
encouraged to proceed ; and launching our bark
into the raging flood, after many fuccefsful trips
ferried over all the goods, then drove in our
horfes altogether, and had the pieafure of feeing
them all fafely landed on the oppofite fhore; and
lallly I embarked with three of our people, and
feveral packs of leather ; we then put off from
fhore, bidding adieu to our generous friends left
behind, who re-echoed our Ihouts upon our fafc
lanidng. We proceeded again, croffed the Oconne
in the fame manner, and with the like fuccefs,
and came to camp in the fertile fields, on the
banks of that beautiful river; and proceeding
thence next day, in the evening came to camp on
the waters of great Ogeche. The following day,
after eroding feveral of its confiderable branches,
came to camp ; and next day croffed the main
branch of that famous river, which being wide
and very rapid proved difficult and dangerous
fording ; yet we eroded without any lofs, but
. fome of our pack-horfes were badly bruifed, be-
ing fwept off their feet and^aflied againft the
rocks, my horfe too being carried away with the
current, and plunging offfunken fhelving rocks
into deep holes, 1 got very wet, but I kept my
feat and landed fafe : however I differed much, it
being a cold freezing day. We came to camp
early, and raffing great fires with Pine knots and
other wood, we dried ourfelves and kept warm
during the long night, and after two days more
f,ard travelling we arrived at Auguda.

Being

1?0RTH AMERICA.

459

Being under a neceflity of making two or
three days ftay here, in order to refit myfelf, for
by this time my flock of cloaths was entirely
worn out, I took this opportunity of vifiting my
friend dodtor Wells at his plantations near the
city. And now being again new clothed and fur-
nifhed with a tolerable Indian poney, I took leave
of my hofl and prepared to depart for Savanna.

Soon after I left Augufta, proceeding for Sa-
vanna, the capital, a gentleman overtook me on
the road, who was a native of Ireland, and had
lately arrived in this part of America with a view
of fettling a plantation in Georgia, particularly
for the culture of thofe very ufeful fruits and ve-
getables that are cultivated up the Mediterranean,
and which fo largely contribute towards fupport-
ing that lucrative branch of commerce, the Le-
vant trade; viz. Vitis vinifera, for wine, Vitis
Corinthiaca, for Currants, Vitis Allobrogica, for
Raifins, Olives, Figs, Morus, for feeding filk-
worms, Amygdalus communis, Piftachia, Cap-
paris. Citrus aurantium. Citrus limon, Citrus
verrucofa, the great fweet fcented Citron, &c.
He was very ingenious, defirous of information,
and as liberal and free of communicating his own
acquifitions and difeoveries in ufeful fcience, and
confequently a very agreeable companion. On
our journey down we Hopped a while to reft and
refrefh ourfelves at the Great Springs, near the
road, on our left hand, about midway between
Augufta and Savanna. This amazing fountain
of tranfparent cool water, breaks fuddenly out of
the earth, at the bails of a moderately elevated
hill or bank, forming at once a bafon near twenty
yards over, afeending through a horizontal betf.
pf foft rocks, ot a heterogeneous compofition,

chiefly

TRAVELS IN

460

chiefly a teftaceous concretion of broken, entire
and pulverifed fea (hells, fand, & c. conftituting
a coarfe kind of lime-ftone. The ebullition is
copious, active and continual, over the ragged
apertures in the rocks, which lie feven or eight
feet below, fwelling the furface confiderably im-
mediately above it. The waters defcend fwiftly
from the fountain, forming at once a large brook,
fix or eight yards over, and five or fix feet deep!
There are multitudes of fifh in the fountain, of
various tribes, chiefly the feveral fpecies of
bream, trout, cat-fifh and garr : it was amufing
to behold the fifh continually afcending and de-
fending through the rocky apertures. Obferved
that we croffed no ftream or brook of water within
twelve or fifteen miles of this fountain, but had
in view vaft favannas, fwamps and Cane mea-
dows, at no great diftance from our road, on
our right hand, which we may prefume were
the refources or refervoirs which contributed to
the fupplies of this delightful grotto. Here were
growing on the afcents from the fountain. Mag-
nolia grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus
fempervirens, Callicarpa,* at a little diftance, a
grove of the Caffine ; and in an old field, juft
by, are to be feen fome fmall Indian mounts. We
travelled feveral miles over ridges of low fwell-
ing hills, whofe furfaces were covered with par-
ticoloured pebbles, ftreaked and clouded with
red, white, brown and yellow : they were moftly
broken or fhivered to pieces, I believe by the
ancients in forming arrow-heads, darts, knives,
&c., for I obferved frequently fome of thefemis-
fhapen implements amongft them, fome broken
and others fpoiled in the making. Thefe ftones
feemed to be a fpecies of jafper or agate.

On

NORTH AMERICA.

461

On my way down I alfo called at Silver Bluff,
and waited on the honourable G. Golphin, Efq.
to acknowledge my obligations to him, and like-
wife to fulfil my engagements on the part of Mr.

T y, trader of Mucclaffe. Mr. Golphin af-

fured me that he was in a difagreeable predica-
ment, and that he feared the word, but faid he
would do all in his power to fave him.

After five days pleafant travelling we arrived
at Savanna in good health.

Lift of the towns and tribes in league, and
which conftitute the powerful confederacy or em-
pire of the Creeks or Mufcogulges.

_ Thefe fpeak the Mufco-
ygulge or Creek tongue,
called the Mother tongue.

Towns on the Tallapoofe or Oakfufke river, viz.

Oakfufke, upper.

Oakfulke, lower,

Ufale, upper.

Ufale, lower.

Sokafpoge.

Tallafe, great.

Coolome.

Ghuaclahatche.

Otaffe.

Cluale.

Fufahatche.

Tuccabatche.

Cunhutke.

Mucclaffe.

Alabama.

Savannuca.

Whittumke.

Coofauda.

Towns on the Coofau river, viz.
Abacooche. Speaks a dialed of Chicafaw.

Pocontallahaffe. ^ c ,

Hiccory ground, (traders’ > Pea " 1 ie Mufcogulge
name). J tonSue*

Natche, Speaks Mufcog. and Chicafaw,

Towns

Speak the Stincard tongue.

Speak the Uche tongue,
f Speak the Stincard tongue.

TRAVELS IN

462

Towns on the branches of the Coofau river, viz.
Wiccakaw.

Fifh pond, traders name. n o , . r ,

Hillaba. ySPeak the Mufcogulge

Kiolege.

tongue.

>

Towns on the Apalachucla or Chata Uche river, viz.
Apalachucla.

Tucpaulka.

Chockcclucca.

Chata Uche.

Checlucca-ninnc.

Hothletega.

Coweta.

Uffeta.

Uche.

Hoofeche.

Chehaw.

Echeta.

Occone.

Swaglaw, great.

Swaglaw, little.

Speak the Mufcogulge
tongue.

Speaks the Savannuca tongue.
Speaks the Mufcog. tongue.

1 -

Speak the Stincard.

Towns on F lint river, conprehending the Siminoles or
Lower Creeks.

Suola-nocha.

Culcowilla or Allachua.

Talahafochte.

Caloofahatche.

■ Great ifland.

Great hammock.

Capon.

St. Mark’s.

• Forks.

* ,

Traders name.
Traders name.
Traders name.
Traders name.
Traders name.

With many others of lefs note.

The Siminoles fpealc both the Mufcogulge
and Stincard tongues.

In all fifty-five towns, befides many villages
not enumerated ; and reckoning two hundred
inhabitants to each town on an average, which

■NORTH AMERICA. 463

is a moderate computation, would give eleven
thotifand inhabitants.

It appears to me pretty clearly, from divers
circumltances, that this powerful empire or con-
federacy of the Creeks or Mufcogulges, arofe.
from, and eftablifhed itfelf upon, the ruins of
that of the Natches, agreeably to monfieur Du-
prat. According to the Mufcogulges account
of themfelves, they arrived from the South-Well,
beyond the Miffiflipi, fome time before the En-
glifh fettled the colony , of Carolina, and built
Charlellon ; and their ftory concerning their
country and people, from whence they fprang,
the caufe of leaving their native land, the pro-
grefs of their migration, &c., is very iimilar to
that celebrated hiftorian’s account of the Natches.
They might have been included as allies and
confederates in that vail and powerful empire of
red men. The Mufcogulges gradually pufhing
and extending their fettlements on their North—
Ealt border, until the dilfolution of the Natches
empire ; being then the mod numerous, warlike
and powerful tribe, they began to fubjugate the
various tribes or bands which formerly confti-
tuted the Natches, and uniting them with them-
felves, formed a new confederacy under the name
of the Mufcogulges.

The Mufcogulge tongue is now the national
or fovereign language ; thofe of the Chicafaws,
Chaclaws, and even the remains of the Natches,
if we are to credit the Creeks and traders, being
diale&s of the Mufcogulge : and probably, when
the Natcheswere fovereigns, they called their own
the national tongue, and the Creeks, Chicafaws,
8tc., only dialedts of theirs. It is uncertain which
is really the mother tongue.

As

TRAVELS IN

464

As. for thofe numerous remnant bands or
tribes, included at this day within the Mufco-
gulge confederacy, who generally fpeak the
Stincard language, (which is radically different
from the Mufcogulge) they are, beyond a doubt,
the fhattered remains of the various nations who
inhabited the lower or maritime parts of Caro-
lina and Florida, from Cape Fear, Weft to the
Miffiflipi. The language of the Uches and Savan-
nucas is a third radically different from the Mufco-
gulge and Stincard, and feems to be a more
Northern tongue ; I fuppofe a language that pre-
vailed amongft the numerous tribes who formerly
poffeffed and inhabited the maritime parts of
Maryland and Virginia. 1 was told by an old
trader that the Savannucas and Shawanefe fpeak
the fame language, or very near alike.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

465

CHAP. XI.

1

After my return from the Creek nation, I em*
ployed myfelf during the fpring and fore part of
lummer, in revifiting the feveral diftri6ts in Geor-
gia and the Eaft borders of Florida, where I had
noted the mod curious fubje£ts ; collecting them
together, and dripping them off to England. In
the courfe of thefe excurfions and relearches, I
had the opportunity of obferving the new flower-
ing flrrub, refembling the Gordonia*, in perfeCt
bloom, as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a
flowering tree, of the firil order for beauty and
fragrance of bloffoms : the tree grows fifteen or
twenty feet high, branching alternately ; the
leaves are oblong, broadeft towards their ex-
tremities, and terminate with an acute point,
which is generally a little reflexed ; they are
lightly ferrated, attenuate downwards, and feflile,
or have very Ihort petioles ; they are placed in
alternate order, and towards the extremities of
the twigs are crouded together, but Hand more
fparfedly below ; the flowers are very large, ex-
pand themfelves perfectly, are of a fnow white
colour, and ornamented with a crown or tafl'el
~ of gold coloured refulgent ftaminte in their cen-
tre , the inferior petal or fegment of the corolla
is hollow, formed like a cap or helmet, and entirely
includes the other four, until the moment of ex-
panfion ; its exterior furface is covered with a
Ihort filky hair ; the borders of the petals are

* On firft obferving the frudbification and habit of this tree, I was inclined
to believe it a fpccics of Gordonia; but afterwards, upon ltridtcr examin-
ation, and comparing its flowers and fruit with thofc of the Gordonia lalian-
thus, I prefently found ftrilcing charadleriftics abundantly fufficient to le-
parate it from that genus, and to cftabl'lh it the head of a new tribe, which
ws have honoured with the name of the illuftrious Dr. Benjamin Franklin.

FrankJinia Alatamaha.

Hh crifped

TRAVELS IN

466

crifped or plicated : thefe large, white flowers
(land Angle and feflile in the bofom of the leaves,
and being near together towards the extremities
of the twigs, and ufually many expanded at the
lame time, make a gay appearance : the fruit is
a large, round, dry, woody apple or pericarp,
opening at each end oppoAtely by five alternate
fiflures, containing ten cells, each replete with
dry woody cuneiform feed. This very curious
tree was firft taken notice of about ten or twelve
years ago, at this place, when I attended my fa-
ther (John Bartram) on a botanical excurfion ;
bur, it being then late in the autumn, we could
form no opinion to what clafs or tribe it be-
longed.

We never faw it grow in any other place, nor
have I ever fince feen it growing wild, in all my
travels, from Pennfylvania to Point Coupe, on
the banks of the Miffifiipi, which mull be al-
lowed a very Angular and unaccountable circum-
ftance ; at this place there are two or three acres
of ground where it grows plentifully.

The other new, Angular and beautiful fhrub*,
now here in full bloom, I never faw grow but at
two other places in all my travels, and there very
fparingly, except in Eaft Florida, in the neigh-
bourhood of the fea-coaft.

* I gave it the name of Bignonia bradteate, extempore.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA. 4^7

CHAP. X.

Having now completed my collections in
Georgia, I took leave of thefe Southern regions,
proceeding on my return to Charlefton. Left
Savanna in the evening, in confequenc'e of a
preffing invitation from the honourable Jonathan
Bryan, Efq., who was returning from the capital,
to his villa, about eight miles up Savanna river ;
a very delightful fituation, where are fpacious
gardens, furnifhed with a variety of fruit trees!
and flowering fhrubs. Obferved in a low wet
place at the corner of the garden, the Ado (Aruni
efculentum) ; this plant is much cultivated in
the maritime parts of Georgia and Florida, fof
the fake of its large Turnip-like root, which when
boiled or roafted, is excellent food, and tafteS
like the Yam ; the leaves of this magnificent
plant are very large, and of a beautiful green
colour, the fpatha large and circulated, the fpa-
dix terminates with a very long Tubulated tongue,
naked and perfectly white : perhaps this may be
the Arum Colocafia. They have likewife another
ipecies of the efculent Arum, called Tannier,
which is a large and beautiful plant, and much
cultivated and efteemed for food, particularly by
the Negroes.

At night, foon after our arrival, feveral of his
fervants came home with horfe loads of wild pi-
geons (Columba migratoria), which it feents they
had collected in a fliort fpace of time at a neigh-
bouring Bay fwamp : they take them by torch
light : the birds have particular roofting places,
■where they affociate in incredible multitudes at
evening, on low trees and bufhes, in hommocks
or higher knolls in the interior parts of vaft

H h a fwamps/

TRAVELS IN

468

fwamps. Many people go out together on this
kind of fport, when dark : fome take with them
little fafcines of fat Pine fplinters for torches ;
others lacks or bags ; and others furnifh them-
felves with poles or ftaves : thus accoutered and
prepared, they approach the roods ; the fudden
blaze of light confounds, blinds and affrights the
birds, whereby multitudes drop off the limbs to
the ground, and others are beaten off with the
ftaves, being by the fudden confternation, en-
tirely helplefs, and eafily taken and put into the
lacks. It is chiefly the fweet fmall acorns of the
Quercus phillos, Quercus aquatica, Quercus fem-
pervirens, Quercus flammula, and others, which
induce thefe birds to migrate in the autumn to
thofe Southern regions ; where they fpend their
days agreeably, and feaft luxurioufly, during the
rigour of the colds in the- North, whither they
return at the approach of fummer to breed.

Sat off next day, and croffed the river at Zub-
ley’s ferry, about fifty miles above Savanna, and
in three days after arrived at Charlefton.

Obferved, by the way near Jackfonfburg, Pon-
pon, After fruticofus, growing plentifully in good
moift ground, ulually by the banks of canals*
It is a moll charming autumnal flowering fhrub ;
it will rife to the height of eight or ten feet, when
lupported by neighbouring trees.

After a few days refidence in Charlefton, I fat
off' on my return to my native land ; crofted Covv-
per river, about nine miles above the city, where
the water was a mile wide, and the. ferry-houfc
being on the oppofite fhore, I hoifted my travel-
ling blanket on a pole for a iignal, which being
white, the people loon came to me and carried
, me

NORTH AMERICA.

469

me lafe over. In three days more eafy travelling,
I eroded Winyaw bay, juft below George town ;
and in two days more, got to the Weft end of
Long bay, where I lodged at a large Indigo plan-
tation. Sat oft early next morning, and after
crofting over the fand ridges, which afford little
elfe but Quercus pumila, Myrica cerifera, Caf-
hne, Sideroxylop and Andromeda entangled with
various fpecies of Smilax, got on the bay, which
is a hard land beafch, expoled for the diftance of
fifteen miles to the continual lafh of the Atlantic
ocean. At about low water mark, are cliffs of
rocks of the helmintholithus, being a very firm
concrete or petrifaction, confifting of various
kinds of feafhells, fine fand and pulverized fnells :
there is a reef of thefe rocks, thirty or forty yards
farther out than low water mark, which lift their
rugged backs above water, and brave the con-
tinual ftiokes of the waves, which, however,
aftifted by the conftant fri&ion of the finds, make
continual inroads upon them, and bore them into
holes and cavities, when tempeftuous feas rend
them to pieces, fcattering the fragments over the
1 and y Hi ore. It is pleafant riding on this clean
haid land, paved with fhells of various colours.

Obferved a number of perfons coming up a
head, whom I loon perceived to be a party of
Negroes. I had every reafon to dread the confe-
quence ; for this being a defolate place, I was by
this time feveial miles from any houfe or planta-
tion, and had reafon to apprehend this to be a
predatory band of Negroes ; people beino- fre-
quently attacked, robbed, and fomerimes mur-
dered by them at this place. I was unarmed,
alone, and my horfe tired - thus fituated every
way in their power, I had no alternative but to

H h 3 be

TRAVELS IN

470

be refigned and prepare to meet them. As foon
as 1 faw them diftin&ly a mile or two off, I im-
mediately alighted to reft, and give breath to my
horfe, intending to attempt my iafety by flighty
it' upon near approach they fhould betray hoftile
defigns. Thus prepared, when we drew near to
each other, I mounted and rode brifkly up ; and
though armed with clubs, axes and hoes, they
opened to right and left, and let me pafs peace-
ably. Their chief informed me whom they ber
longed to, and faid they were going to man a new
quarter at the Weft end of the bay; I however
kept a fharp eye about me, apprehending that
this might pofhbly have been an advanced divi-
fton, and their intentions were to ambufeade and
furround me ; but they kept on quietly, and I
was no more alarmed by them. After noon, I
crofted the fwafh at the eaft end of the bay, and

the evening got to good quarters. Next moin-
ing early I Tat off again, and foon crofted Little
River at the boundary ; which is on the line that
fe pa rates North and South Carolina : in an old
field, on the banks of this river, a little diftance
from the public houfe, ftands a Angle tree of the
Magnolia grandiflora, which is faid to be the
moft northern fettlement of that tree. Paffed this
day over e?cpanfive fayanna?, charmingly deco-
rated with late fiutumnal flowers, as Hpliantlnis,
Rudbeckia, .Silphium, Solidago, Helenium, Ser-
ratula, Cacalia, After, Lilitim Martagon, Gen-
tiana casrulea, Chironia, Gentiajia laponana,
Afclepias cocci nea, Hypericpm, Rhexia pul-
chernma, &c. See.

Obferved likewife in thefe Savannas abundance
of the ludicrous Dionasa muicipula (Dionasa,
T.llis epis. ad Linmenm, miraculum nature, folia

* • '* LJllOD2.j

NORTH AMERICA.

471

biloba, radicalia, ciliata, conduplicanda, fenfi-
bilia, infefta incarcerantia. Syft. vegetab. p. 33 5).

This wonderful plant feems to be diltinguifhed
in the creation, by the Author of nature, with
faculties eminently fuperior to every other vege-
table production* ; fpecimens of it were firft com-
municated to the curious of the old world by John
Bartram, the Americanbotanift and traveller, who
contributed as much, if not more, than any other
man towards enriching the North American bota-
nical nomenclature, as well as its natural hiftory.

After traverfing thefe ample favannas, I gradu-
ally afcended fand hills to open Pine forelts ; at
evening got to Old town near Brunfwick, where I
lodged. Brunfwick is a fea-porttown on the Cla-
rendon, or Cape Fear river, about thirty miles
above the capes ; it is about thirty years fince this
was the feat of government, when Arthur Dobbs,
Efq. was governor and commander in chief of the
province of North Carolina. Continued up the
Weft ftde of North Weft of Cape Fear river, and
refted two or three days at the feat of F. Lucas,
Efq., a fewmilesaboveLivingfton’s creek, acon-
fiderable branch of the Nbrth Weft. This creek
heads in vaft fwamps, in the vicinity of the beau-
tiful lake Wakamaw, which is the fource of a fine
river of that name, and runs a South courfe feventy
or eighty miles, dcliveringirs waters into Winyaw
bay at George-town. The Wakamaw lake is twen-
ty fix miles in circuit ; the lands on its Eaftern
lhores are fertile, and the fituation delightful,
gradually afcending from pleafing eminences ;
bounded on the North- Weft coalt by vaft rich
fwamps, fit for the production of Rice : the lake

* See fovn/t acc;unt of it in the introduction.

H h 4

14

TRAVELS IN

472

is twelve miles Weft from Moore’s, Efq.,

whofe villa is on the banks of the North Weft.

Proceeding again up the North Weft, crofted
Carver’s creek, and flopped at Aflhwood, the an-
cient feat of Colonel William Barrram. The houfe
Hands on the high banks of the river, near feventy
feet in height above thefurfaceof the water; this
high bluff' continues two or three miles on the ri-
ver, and commands a magnificent profpect of the
low lands oppofite, when in their native ftate,
prefenting to the view grand forefts and expan-
live Cane meadows : the trees which compofe
thefe forefts are generally of the following tribes,
Quercus tindloria, Querc. alba, Querc. phillos,
Querc. aquatica, Querc. hemifpherica, Fraxinus
excelfior, Platanus occidentalis, Liriodendron
tulipifera, Liquidambar ftyraciffua, Ulmus, Ti-
lia, Juglans hiccory, Juglans cinerea, Juglans
nigra. Moms rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus, Ho-
pea tindloria, Nyfla aquatica, Nyfla fylvatica,
Carpinus and many more; theCupreffus difticha
as ftatelyand beautiful as I have feen any where.
When thefe lands are cleared of their timber and
cultivated, they produce abundantly, particular-
ly, Wheat, Zea, Cotton, Hemp, Flax, with va-
riety of excellent vegetables. This perpendicu-
lar bank of the river, by which the waters fwiftly
glide along, difcovers at once the various ftrata
of the earth of this low maritime country. For
the moft parr, the upper ftratum cohfifts of a
light, fandy, pale, yellowifh mould or loam, for
ten or twelve feet in depth (except the flat level
land back from the rivers, where the clays or
marie approach very near the furface, and the
ridges of fand hills, where the clays lie much
deeper) ; this fandy mould or loam lies upon a

NORTH AMERICA. 473

deep bed of black or dark Hate coloured faline
and fulphureous earth, which is compofed of ho-
rizontal thin flakes or lamina?, feparated by-
means of very thin, almoft imperceptible veins or
ftrata of fine micaceous particles, which drain or
percolate a clear water, continually exuding, or
trickling down, and forming little rills and dimi-
nutive cataracts, being concluded by perpendi-
cular chinks or fiflures : in lome places, a portion
of this clearwater or tranfparent vapour, feems to
coagulate on the edges of the veins and fiflures,
leaving a reddifh curd or jelly-like fubfiance
flicking to them, which I fhould iuppofc indicates
it to fpring from a ferruginous fource, efpecially
fince it difcovers a chalybeate fcent and tafte : in
other places, thefe fiflures lliow evidently a cry-
ftallization of exceeding fine white falts, which
have an aluminous or vitriolic fcent: they are py-
rites, marcafites, or fulphureous nodules, fhining
like brafs, of various fizes and forms, fome Angle
and others conglomerated : other places prefent
to view, ftrata of heterogeneous matter, lying be-
tween the upper loamy ftratum and the bed of
black faline earth, confiding of various kinds of
fea (hells, fome whole, others broken to pieces,
and even pulverized, which fill up the cavities of
the entire (hells, and the interftices betwixt them :
at other places we obferve, two or three feet be-
low the furface or virgin mould, a ftratum of four,
five, or fix feet in depth, of brownifh marie, on a
bed of teftaceous rocks; a petrifadion compofed
apparently of various kinds of fea (hells, belem-
nites, fand, &c., combined or united with a cal-
careous cement : thefe mafles of rocks are in fome
places detached by veins and ftrata of a hetero-
geneous earth, confifting of fea (hells and other
marine produdions, as well as terreftrial, which

feem

TRAVELS IN

474

feem to be foffile, or in fome degree of petrifac-
tion, or otherwife tranfmuted, particularly thofe
curious productions called birds bills, or (harks
teeth (dentes carcharia), belcmnites, &c., loofely
mixed with a deficcated earth compofed of fand,
clay, particles ofmarle,vegetablerubbilh,&c. And
again we obferve (hells, marcafites, belemnites,
dentes carcharise, with pieces of wood tranfmuted,
black and hard as fea coal, fingly interfperfed in
the black vitriolic ftrata of earth : when this black
earth is expofed to the fun and dry air, the little
thin lamina? feparate, and foon difcover a fine,
white cryftallization,, or aluminous powder ; but
this very loon difappears, being again incorpor-
ated with the general mafs, which gradually dif-
folves or falls like quick-lime, and appears then
a grayilli, extremely fine, dry micaceous powder,
which fmells like gun-powder.

The North Weft; of Cape Fear, here at Afh-
wood, is near three hundred yards over (when the
ftream is low and within its banks), and is eighty
or ninety miles above thecapes. Obferved growing
hereabouts a great variety of very curious and
beautiful flowering and fweetfcented fhrubs, par-
ticularly Callicarpa, ^Efculus pavia, floribus coc-
cineis, caule luffruticofo, iEfculus fylvatica, flo-
ribus ex albo et carneo eleganter variegatis, caule
arboreo, Ptelea trifoliata, Styrax, Stewartia, Fo-
thergilla, Amorpha, Myrica, Stillingia fruticofa,
foliis lanceolatis, utrinque glabris, frutftu tricoc-
co, Olea Americana, foliis lanceolato-ellipticis,
baccisatro-purpureis (Purple berried bay), Catef-
by. Ilex dahoon, Calfine Yapon, Azalea, varie-
ties, Kalmea. Cyrilla, Liquidambar peregrinum,
Sideroxylon, Andromeda lucida, <fec.

Leaving Alhwood, and continuingup the W?ft

lidc

NORTH AMERICA. 475

fide of the river, about forty miles, in the banks
of a creek, five or fix feet below the fandy furface,
are to be feen projecting out many feet in length,
trunks of trees petrified to very hard ftone ; they
lie between the upper fiandy ftratum and the com-
mon bed of blackifh vitriolic earth ; and thefe
ftone trees are to be feen in the fame fituation,
flicking out of the perpendicular banks or bluffs
of the river in this region : there are feveral trunks
of large trees with their bark, flumps of their
limbs and roots, lying petrified on the fand
hills and Pine forells, near the road about this
cr^ek, not far from the faw- mills.

I • Croffed Rock-fifh, a large branch of the North
Weft, near its mouth or confluence, and at even-
ing arrived at Crofs-Creeks, another very confi-
derable branch of the river, flowing in through
its Weft banks. This creek gave name to a fine
inland trading town, on fome heights or fwelling
hills, from whence the creek defcends precipi-
tately, then gently meanders near a mile, through
lower level lands, to its confluence with the river,
affording moil convenient mill-feats : thefe pro-
f'pedls induced active, cnterprifing men to avail
themfelves of luch advantagespointed out to them
by nature; they built mills, which drew people
to the place, and thefe oblerving eligible fit na-
tions for other profitable improvements, bought
lots and eredted tenements, where they exerciied
jnechanic arts, as fmiths, wheelwrights, carpen-
ters, coopers, tanners, &c. And at length mer-
chants were encouraged to adventure and fettle:
in fhort, within eight or ten years, from a grill-
mill, faw-mill, ftnith-fliop and a tavern, arofe a
flourilhing commercial town, the feat of govern-
ment of the county of Cumberland. The leading

men

TRAVELS IN

476

men of the county, feeing plainly the fuperior
advantages of this fituation, on the banks of a
famous navigable river, petitioned the Afiembly
for a charter to empower them to purchafe a di-
ftridt, fufficient for founding a large town ; which
being granted, they immediately proceeded to
mark out its precinds, and named the new city

Cambelton,a compliment to Cambel, Efq.,

a gentleman of merit, and a citizen of the county.
When I was here about twenty years ago, this
town was marking out its bounds, and there were
then about twenty habitations ; and now there
are above a thoufand houfes, many wealthy mer-
chants, and refpecfable public buildings, a vaffc
refort of inhabitants and travellers, and continual
brilk commerce by waggons, from the back fet-
tlements, with large trading boats, to and from
Wilmington, the leaport and flourifhing trading
town on the Clarendon, about forty miles above
the capes, which is about one hundred miles be-
low this town. The Clarendon or Cape Fear river
has its fource in the Cherokee mountains, where
its numerous confederate ftreams unite; after leav-
ing the firfl ridges of the mountains, it a flumes
the name of Haw river, and courfing the hilly
fertile country, above one hundred and fifty miles,
receives through its Weft banks the Weft branch,
called Deep River, and after this union, takes the
name of the North- Weft of Cape Fear, from
whence down to Cambelton, about eighty miles,
it is navigable for perriauguas of confiderable
burthen.

Obferved near Cambelton a very curious fcan-
dent Fern (Pteris fcandens) rambling over low
bullies, in humid fituations ; the lower larger
fronds were digitated, or rather radiated, but

towards

NORTH AMERICA.

477

towards the tops or extremities of the branches
they became trifid, haftated, and laftly lance-
olate : it is a delicate plant, of a yellowifh lively
green, and would be an ornament in a garden.

Sat off again to Cambelton, continuing yet up
the North Weft about fixty miles ; crofted over
this branch, and foon after crofted the Roanoke,
and then refted a few days at Mr. Lucas’s a wor-
thy old gentleman, a planter on Meherren river.
Obferved ftrolling over his fences and ftables, a
very lingular and ufeful fpecies of the Gourd
(Cucurbita lagenaria) ; its neck or handle is
above two feet in length, and not above an inch
in' diameter; its belly round, which would
contain about a pint; it makes excellent ladles,
funnels, &c. At a little diftance from Mr. Lu-
cas’s, at the head of a fwamp near the high road,
I obferved a very curious fpecies of Prinos, which
grows feven or eight feet high, the leaves broad,
lanceolate, fharply ferrated, nervous, and of a
deep green colour ; but its ftriking beauty con-
fifts in profufe clufters of fruit, colledted about
the cafes or origin of the laftfpring’s Ihoots; thefe
berries are nearly round, about the fize of mid-
dling grapes, of a fine clear fcarlet colour, cover-
ed or invefted with an incarnate mill or nebulas.

Being now arrived on the South border of Vir-
ginia, and the hoary frigid feafon far advanced, I
lhall pafs as fpeedily as poflible from hence to
Pennfylvania, my native country ; fince thole
cultivated regions of Virginia and Maryland,
through wich I delign to travel, have been over
and over explored, and defcribed by very able
men in every branch of natural hiftory.

After leaving Meherren, I foon arrived at

Alexandria

47S TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.

Alexandria in Virginia, a fine city on the Weft
banks of the Patowmac, about the 26th of De-
cember, having had excellent roads, and plea-
fant, moderate weather, neither fnow nor ice to
be feen, except a flight fall of fnow from a flying
cloud, the day before I reached this place ; but
this evening it clouded up from the Weft, the
wind North-eaft and cold. Next morning the
lnow was eight or ten inches deep on the ground,
and the wind lhifting to North-weft, cleared up
intenfely cold : I however fat off and c rolled the
river juft below the falls, and landed at George-
town in Maryland. The fnow was now deep every
where around, the air cold to an extreme, and
the roads deep under fnow or flippery with ice,
rendered the travelling uncomfortable.

Being now arrived at Wright’s ferry, on the
Sui'quehanna, 1 began anxioully to look towards
home, but here 1 found almoft infuperable em-
barraflments : the river being but half frozen
over, there was no poflibility of eroding here;
but hearing that people crofted at Anderfon’s,
about five miles above, early next morning I fat
off' again up the river, in company with leveral
travellers, fome for Philadelphia : arriving at the
ferry, we were joined by a number of traders,
with their pack-horfes loaded with leather and
furs, where we all agreed to venture over toge-
ther; and keeping at a moderate diftance from
each other, examining well our icy bridge, and
being careful of our fteps, we landed fafe on the
oppolite fhore, got to Lancafter in the evening,
and next morning fat forward again towards Phi-
ladelphia, and in two days more arrived at my
farher’s houfe on the banks of the river Schuylkill,
within four miles of the city, January 177S*

AN

ACCOUNT

O F T H E

PERSONS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS AND GOVERNMENT,

OF THE

MUSCOGULQES, or CREEKS,
CHEROKEES, CHACTAWS, &c.

ABORIGINES OF THE CONTINENT OF

NORTH AMERICA.

BY

WILLIAM BARTRAM.

I

. . ,

North America;

4S 1

part IV.

CHAP. I.

ef.scription OF TH£__CHARACTER, customs and
PERSONS OF THE AMERICAN ABORIGINES, FROM
MY OWN OBSERVATIONS, AS WELL AS FROM THE
GENERAL AND IMPARTIAL REPORT OF ANCIENT,
RESPECTABLE MEN, EITHER OF THEIR OWN PEO-
PLE, OR WHITE TRADERS, WHO HAVE SPENT MANY
DA"is OF THEIR LIVES AMONGST THEM.

PERSONS AND QUALIFICATIONS.

The males of thf^Cherokees, Mufcogulcres
Siminoles, Chicafaws, Chadtaws, and confederate
tribes of the Creeks, are tall, eredt, and moder-
ately robufl ; their limbs well fhaped, fo as ge-
net ally to form a perfedl human figure; their fea-
tures regular, and countenance open, dignified
and placid ; yet the forehead and brow fo formed
as to ftrtke you inftantly with heroifm and bra-
very ; the eye though rather fmall, yet adtive and
lull of fire ; the iris always black, and the nofe
commonly inclining to the aquiline.

Their countenance and adtions exhibit an air
of maghammity, fuperiority and independence.

Their complexion, of a reddiflh brown or cod-
per colour; their hair long, lank, coarfe, and
black as a raven, and refiedting the like luftre at
different expofures to the light.

crl'L7^e7rtheSher°ke'S* are tall> ^ndcr,

«] wf,h of “del'catc: frame; their features form-
d WIth Perfeft Symmetry, their countenance

^ * cheerful

TRAVELS IN

4'82

cheerful and friendly, and they move with a be-
coming grace and dignity.

The Mufcogulge women, though remarkably
fiiort of ftature, are well formed ; their vifage-
round, features regular and beautiful; the brow-
high and arched ; - the eye large, black and lan-
guilhing, expreffive of modefty, diffidence, and
bafhfulnefs ; thefe charms are their defenfive and
offenfive weapons, and they know very well how
to play them off, and under cover of thele alluring
graces, are concealed the moft fubtile artifice r
they are however loving and affectionate : they
are I believe, the fmalleft race of women yet
known, feldom above five feet high, and I believe
the greater number never arrive to that ftature ;
their3 hands and feet not larger thanthofe of Eu-
ropeans of nine or ten years of age : yet the men
are of gigantic ftature, a full fize larger than Eu-
ropeans ; many of them above fix feet, and few
under that, or five feet eight or ten inches. Their
complexion much darker than any of the tribes
to the North of them that 1 have feen. This de-
scription will I believe comprehend the Mufco-
trulges, their confederates, the Chadaws, and i
believe the Chicafaws (though I have never feen
their women), excepting however fome bands of
the Siminoles, Uches ahd Savannucas, who are
rather taller and flenderer, and their complexion
brighter.

The Chcrokees arc yet taller and more robuft
than the Mufcogulges, and by far the largeft race
of men 1 have feen* ; their complexions brighter

* There arc, however, fome exceptions to this general obferv^O", as I

KeCe the onl> inllancc 1 law in the nation : but he ,s a mao of

fuperior abilities. and-

NofeTH AMERICA'.' 4S3

and fomewbat of the olive call, efpecially the a-
dults ; and fome of their yoong \yomen are nearly
as fair and blooming as European women.

The Cherokees in their difpolitions and man-
ners are grave and fteady ; dignified and circum-
fpetft in their deportment ; rather flow and re-
ferved in converfation ; yet frank, cheerful, and
humane ; tenacious of the liberties and natural
rights of man ; fecret, deliberate and determined
in their councils ; honeft, juft and liberal, and
Iready always to facrifice every pleafure and grati-
fication, even their blood, and life itfelf, to de-
fend their territory and maintain their rights.
They do homage to the Mufcogulges with re-
lu<ftance, and are impatient under that galling
yoke. I was witnefs to a moft humiliating lafli,
which they paffively received from their red maf-
ters, at the great congrefs and treaty of Augufta,
when thefe people acceded with the Creeks, to
the ceflion of the New Pur chafe ; where were
about three hundred of the Creeks, a great part
of whom were warriors, and about one hundred
Cherokees.

The firft day of convention opened with fettling
the preliminaries, one article of which was a de-
mand on the part of the Georgians, to a territory
lying on the Tugilo, and claimed by them both,
which it feems the Cherokees had, previous to
the opening of congrefs, privately conveyed to the
Georgians, unknown to the Creeks. The Geor-
gians mentioning this as a matter fettled, the
Creeks demanded in council, on what foundation
they built that claim, faying they had never ceded
thefe lands. The Georgians anfwered, that they
bought them of their friends and brothers the
Cherokees. The Creeks -nettled and incenfed at

I i 2 this.

TRAVELS IN

A 0 i

4 *-4

this, a chief and warrior ftarted up, and with an
agitated and terrific countenance, frowing men-
aces and difdain, fixed his eyes on the Cherokee
chiefs, and alked them what right they had to
give away their lands, calling them old women,
and faying they had long ago obliged them to
wear the petticoat ; a molt humiliating and de-
grading ftroke, in the prefence of the chiefs of
the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, of the Chi-
cafaws, principal men and citizens of Georgia,
Carolina, Virginia, Maryland and Pennfylvania,
in the face of their own chiefs and citizens, and
arnidfi the laugh and jeers of the afl'embly, ef-
pecially the young men of Virginia, their old ene-
mies and dreaded neighbours : but humiliating as
it really was, they were obliged to bear the ftig-
ma paffively, and even without a reply.

And moreover, thefe arrogant bravos and
ufurpers carried their pride and importance to
fuch lengths, as even to threaten to diflblve the
congrels°and return home, unlels the Georgians
conlented to annul the fecret treaty with the
Cherokees, and receive that territory immediately
from them, as acknowledging their exclusive
r jo-fit of alienation ; which was complied with,
thou oh violently extorted from the Cherokees,
contrary to right and tan6tion ot tieatics; iince
the Savanna river and its waters were acknow-
ledged to be the natural and juft bounds of terri-
tory betwixt the Cherokees and Mufcogulges.

The national character of the Mufcogulges,
when confidered in a political view, exhibits a
.portraiture of a great or illuftrious heroe. A
proud, haughty and arrogant race of men; they
?re brave and valiant in war, ambitious ot con-
oueft reft lets and perpetually exercilmg their
1 " ’ arms.

NORTH AMERICA.

485

arras, yet magnanimous and merciful to a van-
quifhed enemy, when he fubmits and feeks their
friendfhip and protection : always uniting the
vanquifhed tribes in confederacy with them;
when they immediately enjoy, unexceptionably,
every right of free citizens, and are from that
moment united in one common band of brother-
hood. They were never known to exterminate a
tribe, except the Yamafees, who 'would never
fubmit on any terms, but fought it out to the laft,
only about forty or fifty of them efcaping at the
laft; decifive battle, who threw themfelves under
the protection of the Spaniards at St. Auguftine.

According to their own account, which I be-
lieve to be true, after their arrival in this coun-
try, they joined in alliance and perpetual amity
with the Britifh colonifts of South Carolina and
Georgia, which they never openly violated ; but
on the contrary, purfued every ftep to ftrengthen
the alliance ; and their aged chiefs to this day,
fpeak of it with tears of joy, and exult in that
memorable tranfaftion, as one of the molt glo-
rious events in the annals of their nation.

As an inftance of their ideas of political impar-
tial juftice, and homage to the Supreme Being, as
the high arbiter of human tranfaCtions, who alone
claims the right of taking away the life of man, I
beg leave to offer to the reader’s confideration,
the following event, as I had it from the mouth
of a Spaniard, a refpeCtable inhabitant of Eaft
Florida.

The fon of the Spanifh governor of St. Au-
guftine, together vvith two young gentlemen, his
•h lends and aflociates, conceived a defign of
amufing themfelves in a party of fport, at hunt-

1 1 3 ing

TRAVELS IN

486

ing and fifhing. Having provided themfelves
with a convenient bark, ammunition, fifhing
tackle, See., they fet fail, directing their oourfe
South, along the coaft, towards the point of Flo-
rida, putting into bays and rivers, as conveniency
and the .profpeCt of game invited them. The
pleafing rural and diverfified feenes of the Florida
coaft, imperceptibly allured them far to the fouth,
beyond the Spanifh fortified poft. Unfortunate
youths ! regardlefs of the advice and injunctions
of their parents and friends, ftill purfuing the de-
lufive objeCts, they entered a harbour at evening,
with a view of chafing the roe-buck, and hunting
up the fturdy bear, folacing themfelves with de-
licious fruits, and repofing under aromatic (hades ;
when, alas ! cruel unexpected event ! in the bea-
tific moments of their (lumbers, they were fur-
rounded, arrefted and carried off by a predatory
band of Creek Indians, proud of the capture, fo
rich a prize ; they hurry away into cruel bondage
the haplefs youths, conducting them by devious
paths through dreary fwamps and boundlefs fa-
vannas, to the Nation.

At that time the Indians were at furious war
with the Spaniards, fcarcely any bounds fet to
their cruelties on either fide : in fhort, the mi-
ferable youths were condemned to be burnt.

But there were Englifh traders in thefe towns,
who learning the character of .the captives, and ex-
pecting great rewards from the Spanifh governor,
if they could deliver them, petitioned the Indians
on their behalf, expreffing their wilhes to obtain
their refeue, offering a great ranfom ; acquaint-
ing them at the fame time, that they were young
men of high rank, and one of them the gover-
nor’s Ion.

Upon

2

NORTH AMERICA.

487

Upon this, the head men, or chiefs of the
whole nation, were convened, and aftef folemn.
and mature deliberation, they returned the tra-
ders their final anfwer and determination, which
was as follows :

<£ Brothers and friends. We have been con-
fidering upon this bufinefs concerning the cap-
tives— and that, under the eye and fear of the
Great Spirit. You know that thefe people are
our cruel enemies ; they fave no lives of us red
men, who fall in their power. You fay that the
youth is thefon of the Spanifh governor ; we be-
lieve it ; we are forry he has fallen into our hands,
but he is our enemy : the two young men (his
friends) are equally our enemies ; we are forry to
fee them here ; but we know no difference in
their flefh and blood ; they are equally our ene-
mies ; if we fave one we muft fave all three : but
we cannot do it ; the red men require their blood
to appeafe the fpirits of their flain relatives ;
they have entrufted us with the guardianfhip of
our laws and rights, we cannot betray them.

“ However we have a facred prcfcription rela-
tive to this affair, which allows us to extend
mercy to a certain degree : a third is faved by
lot ; the Great Spirit allows us to put it to that
decifion ; he is no refpecfer of perfons.” The
lots were caft. The governor’s fon was taken and
burnt.

If we confider them with refpect to their pri-
vate charafter or in a moral view, they muft, I
think, claim our approbation, if we diveft our-
felves of prejudice and think freely. As moral
men they certainly Hand in no need of European
civilization.

I i 4

They

TRAVELS IN

.4 3$

They are juft, honeft, liberal and hofpitable to
ftrangers ; confiderate, loving and affedtionate to
their wives and relations ; fond of their children ;
induftrious, frugal, temperate and perlevering ;
charitable and forbearing. I have been weeks
and months amongft them and in their towns,
and never obferved the leaft fign of contention or
wrangling : never faw an inftance of an Indian
beating his wife, or even reproving her in anger.
In this cafe they (land as examples of reproof to
the moft civilized nations, as not being defective
in juftice, gratitude and a good underftanding ;
for indeed their Wives merit their efteem and the
moft gentle treatment, they being induftrious,
frugal, careful, loving and affectionate.

The Mufcogulges are more volatile, fprightly
and talkative than their Northern neighbours,
the Cherokees ; and, though tar more diftant
from the white fettlements than any nation Eaft
of the Miffiflipi or Ohio, appear evidently to have
made greater advances towards the refinements
of true civilization, which cannot, in the leaft
degree, be attributed to the good examples of
the white people.

Their internal police and family economy
at once engage the notice of European tra-
vellers, and incontrovertibly place thefe peo-
ple in an illuftrious point of view : their libe-
rality, intimacy and friendly intercourfe one with
another, without any reftraint of ceremonious
fprmality, as if they were even infenfible of the
ufe or neceftity ol affociating the paflions or
affedtions of avarice, ambition or covetoufnefs.

A man goes forth on his bufinefs or avoca-
tions ; he calls in at another town ; if he wants

viCtualSj

NORTH AMERICA.

489

victuals, reft or focial converfation, he confidently
approaches the door of the firft houfe he choofes,
laying “ 1 atn come;'’ the good man or woman
replies, “ You are ; it’s well.” Immediately
victuals and drink are ready ; he eats and drinks
a little, then fmokes tobacco, and converfes either
of private matters, public talks, or the news of
the town. He rifes and fays, “ I go !” the other
anfwers, “ You do !” He then proceeds again,
and fteps in at the next habitation he likes, or
Repairs to the public fquare, where are people
always converfing by day, or dancing all night,
or to fome more private affembly, as he likes ;
he needs no one to introduce him, any more than
the black-bird or thrufh, when he repairs to the
fruitful groves, to regale on their luxuries, and
entertain the fond female with evening fongs.

It is aftonifhing, though a fa£t, as well as a
fiiarp reproof to the white people, if they will
allow themfelves liberty to reflect and form a juft
eftimate, and I muft own elevates thefe people to
the firft rank amongft mankind, that they have
been able to refift the continual efforts of the
complicated hoft of vices, that have for ages
over-run the nations of the old world, and fa
contaminated their morals ; yet more fo, fince
fuch vaft armies of thefe evil fpirits have invaded
this continent, and clofely inverted them on all
iides. Aftonilhing indeed ! when we behold the
ill, immoral condudt of too many white people,
who refide amongft them : notwithftanding

which, it feems natural, eligible, and even eafy,
for thefe fimple, illiterate people, to put in prac-
tice thofe beautiful lectures delivered to us by
the ancient fages and philofophers, and recorded
for our inftructiorj.

49°

TRAVELS IN

I faw a young Indian in the Nation, who when
prefent, and beholding the fcenes of mad in-
temperance and folly atded by the white men in
the town, clapped his hand to his bread, and
with a Imile, looked aloft as if druck with
adonifhment, and wrapt in love and adoration to
the Deity ; as who fhould fay, “ O thou Great
and Good Spirit ! we are indeed fenfible of thy
benignity and favour to us red men, in denying
us the underdanding of white men. We did not
know before they came amongd us that mankind
could become fo bafe, and fall fo below the dig-
nity of their nature. Defend us from their man-
ners, laws and power.”

The Mufcogulges, with their confederates, the
Cha&aws, Chicafaws, and perhaps the Cherokees,
eminently deferve the encomium of all nations;
for their wifdom and virtue in refilling and even
repelling the greateft, and even the common
enemy of mankind, at leaft of mod of the Euro-
pean nations, I mean fpirituous liquors.

The firft and mod cogent article in all their
treaties with the white people, is, that there lhall
not be any kind of fpirituous liquors fold or
brought into their towns; and the traders are
allowed but two kegs (live gallons each) which
is fuppofed to be fufficient for a company, to ferve
them on the road ; and if any of this remains on
their approaching the towns, they mull fpill it on
the ground or fecrete it on the road, for it mud
not come into the town.

On my journey from Mobile to the Nation, jud
after we had palled the junction of the Penfacola
road with our path, two young traders overtook
ys on their way to the Nation. We inquired

what

NORTH AMERICA.

49 r

what news ? They informed us that they were
running about forty kegs of Jamaica fpirits
(which by dafhing would have made at lead
eighty kegs) to the Nation ; and after having
left the town three or four days, they were fur-
prifecl on the road in the evening, juft after they
had come to camp, by a party of Creeks, who
difcovering their fpecies of merchandize, they
forthwith ftruck their tomahawks into every keg,
giving the liquor to the thirfty fand, not tailing
a drop of it themfelves ; and they had enough to
do to keep the tomahawks from their own Ikulls,

How are we to account for their excellent po-
licy in civil government ; it cannot derive its
influence from coercive laws, for they have no
fuch artificial fyftem. Divine wifdom didlates
and they obey.

We fee and know full well the direful effecfts
of this torrent of evil, which has its fource in hell;
and we know furely, as well as thefe favages, how
fo divert its courfe and fupprefs its inundations.
Do we want wifdom and virtue ? let our youth
then repair to the venerable councils of the Muf-
pogulges.

CHAP.

492

TRAVELS IN

CHAP. II.

On their GOVERNMENT and CIVIL SOCIETY.

The conftitution or fyftem of their police is
limply natural, and as little complicated as that
which is fuppofed to direct or rule the approved
economy of the ant and the bee ; and feems to be
nothing more than the fimple dictates of natural
rcafon, plain to every one, yet recommended to
them by their wife and virtuous elders as divine,
becaufe neceflary for fecuring mutual happinefs :
equally binding and effedual, as being propofed
and aflented to in the general combination : every
one’s confcience being a fufficient conviction (the
golden rule, do as you would be done by) in-
ftantly prefents to view, and produces a fociety
of peace and love, which in effed better maintains
human happinefs, than the moll complicated fyf-
tem of modern politics, or fumptuary laws, en-
forced by coercive means : for here the people are
all on an equality, as to the poffeffion and enjoy-
ments of the common neceflaries and convenien-
ces of life, for luxuries and fuperfluities they have
none.

This natural conftitution is fimply fubordinate ;
and the fupreme, fovereign or executive power
refides in a council of elderly chiefs, warriors and
others, refpedable for wifdom, valour and virtue.

At the head of this venerable fenate, prefides
their mico or king, which fignifies a magiflrate
or chief ruler : the governors of Carolina, Geor-
gia, See., are called inicos ; and the king of Eng-
land is called Ant-apala-mico-clucco*, that is the
great king, over or beyond the great water.

* Clucco lignites gre.it or excellent.

The

NORTH AMERICA. 493

The king, although he is acknowledged to be
the firft and greateft man in the town or tribe,
and honoured with every due and rational mark
of love and efteem, and when prefiding in coun-
cil, with a humility and homage as reverent as
that paid to the moft defpotic monarch in Eu-
rope or the Eaft, and when abfent, his feat is not
filled by any other perfon, yet he is not dreaded ;
and when out of the council, he affociates with
the people as a common man, converfes with them,
and they with him, in perfect eafe and familiarity.

The mico or king, though eledtive, yet his
advancement to that fupreme dignity mud: be
underftood in a very different light from the elec-
tive monarchs of the old world, where the pro-
grefs to magiftracy is generally effected by fchifm
and the influence of friends gained by craft, bri-
bery, and often by more violent efforts; and af-
ter the throne is obtained, by meafures little bet-
ter than ufurpation, he rnuft be protected and
fupported there, by the fame bale means that
carried him thither.

But here behold the majefty of the Mufcogulge
mico ! he does not either publicly or privately
beg of the people to place him in a fituation to
command and rule them : no, his appearance is
altogether myfterious ; as a beneficent deity he
rifes king over them, as the fun rifes to blefs the
earth !

No one will tell you how or when he became
their king ; but he is univerfally acknowledged
to be the greateft perfon among them, and he is
loved, efteemed and reverenced, although he af-
fociates, eats, drinks and dances with them in
common as another man ; his drefs is the fame,

and

TRAVELS I1T

494

and a ftranger could not diftinguifli the king’s
habitation, from that of any other citizen, by any
fort of fplendour or magnificence; yet he perceives
they aft as though their mico beheld them, him-
felf invifible. In a word, their mico Teems to
them the reprefentative of Providence or the
Great Spirit, whom they acknowledge to prefide
over and influence their councils and public pro-
ceedings. He perfonally prefides daily ir» their
councils, either at the rotunda or public fquare :
and even here his voice, in regard to bufinefs in
hand, is regarded no more, than any other chief’s
or fenator’s, no farther than his advice, as being
the beft and wifeTl man of the tribe, and not by
virtue of regal prerogative. But whether their
ultimate decifions require unanimity, or only a
majority of voices, I am uncertain ; but probably
where there is a majority, the minority volunta-
rily accede.

The Inofl aftive part the mico takes is in the
civil government of the town or tribe : here he
has the power and prerogative of calling a coun-
cil, to deliberate on peace and war, or all public
concerns, as inquiring into, and deciding upon
complaints and differences; but he has not the
leaft Thadow of exclufive executive power. He
is complimented with the firft vifits of ftrangers,
giving audience toambafladors, withprefents, and
he has alfo the difpofal of the public granary.

The next man in order of dignity and power,
is the great war chief: he reprelents and exer-
cifes the dignity of the mico, in his abfence, in
council ; his voice is of the greatefl: weight, in
military affairs ; his power and authority are en-
tirely independent of the mico, though when a

mico

NORTH AMERICA. 49.5

rnico goes on an expedition, he heads the army,
and is there the war chief. There are many of
thefe war chiefs in a town or tribe, who are cap-
tains or leaders of military parties ; they are el-
derly men, who in their youthful days have di-
ftinguifhed themfelves in war by valour, fubtility
and intrepidity ; and thefe veteran chiefs, in a
great degree, conftitute their truly dignified and

venerable fenates.

•

There is in every town or tribe a high pried,
ufually called by the white people jugglers, or
conjurers, befides feveral juniors or graduates.
But the ancient high prieft or feer, prefides in.
fpiritual affairs, and is a perfon of confequence ;
he maintains and exercifes great influence in the
date, particularly in military affairs ; the fenate
never determine on an expedition againfl their
enemy without his counfel and affiftance. Thefe
people generally believe that their feer has com-
munion with powerful invifible fpirits, who they
fuppofe have a fhare in the rule and government
of human affairs, as well as the elements ; that he
can predict the refult of an expedition ; and his
influence is fo great, that they have been known
frequently to flop, and turn back an army, when
within a days journey of their enemy, after a march
of feveral hundred miles; and indeed their pre-
dictions have furprized many people. They fore-
tel rain or drought, and pretend to bring rain
at pleafure, cure difeafes,‘and exercife witchcraft,
invoke or expel evil fpirits, and even aflume the
power of directing thunder and lightning.

Thefe Indians are by no means idolaters, un-
lefs their puffing the tobacco fmoke towards the
fun, and rejoicing at the appearance of the new

moon.

TRAVELS IN

496

moon*, maybe termed fo. So far from idolatry
are they, that they have no images amongft them,
nor any religious rite or ceremony that I could
perceive ; but adore the Great Spirit, the giver
and taker away of the breath of life, with the
moft profound and refpe&ful homage. They be-
lieve in a future ftate, where the fpirit exifts,
which they call the world Of fpirits, where they
enjoy different degrees of tranquillity or comfort,
agreeably to their life l'pent here : a’perfon who
in his life has been an induftrious hunter, provid-
ed well for his family, an intrepid and active
warrior, juft, upright, and done all the good he
could, will, they fay, in the world of fpirits, live
in a warm, pleafant country, where are expanfive,
green, flowery favannas and high forefts, watered
with rivers of pure waters, replenifhed with deer,
and every fpecies of game; a ferene, unclouded
and peaceful fky ; in fliort, where there is fulnefs
of pleafure, uninterrupted.

They have many accounts of trances and vifions
of their people, who have been fuppofed to be
dead, but afterwards reviving, have related their
vifions, which tend to enforce the practice of vir-
tue and the moral duties.

Before I went amongft the Indians, I had of-
ten heard it reported, that thefe people, when their
parents, through extreme old age, become de-
crepid and. helplefs, in compaflion for their mi-
icries, fend them to the other world, by a ftrokc
of the tomahawk or bullet. Sach a degree*.of
depravity and fpecies of impiety always appeared

* I have obferved the young fellows very merry and jocofc, at the appear-
ance of the new moon, faying, how afliamed the looks under the veil, iince
lleepir.g with the fun thefe two or three nights, (he is afliamed ca (haw her
face, &c.

to

NORTH AMERICA.

497

to me fo incredibly inhuman and horrid, that it
was with the utmod difficulty I affumed refolu-
tion fufficient to inquire into it.

The traders affured me that they knew no in-
ftance of fuch barbafifm ; but that there had been
inftances of the communities performing fuch a
deed at the earned requed of the victim.

When I was at MucclafTe town, early one
morning, at the invitation of the chief trader, we
repaired to the public fquare, taking with us fome
prefents for the Indian chiefs. On our arrival we
took our feats in a circle of venerable men, round
a fire in the centre of the area : other citizens
were continually coming in, and amongd them I
was druck with awe and veneration at the ap-
pearance of a very aged man ; his hair, what lit-
tle he had, was as white as fnow; he was con-
ducted by three young men, one having hold of
each arm, and the third behind to deady him.
On his approach the whole circle fainted -him,
fC welcome,” and made way for him : he looked
as finding and cheerful as youth, yet done-blind
by extreme old age: he was the mod ancient
chief of the town, and they all feemed to rever-
ence him. Soon after the old man had feated
himfelf, I didributed my prefents, giving him a
very fine handkerchief and a twid of choice to-
bacco, which paded through the hands of an el-
derly chief who fat next him, telling him it was a
prefent from one of their white brothers, lately
arrived in the nation from Charledon : he received
the prefent with a finile, and thanked me, return-
ing the favour immediately with his own done
pipe and cat Ikin of tobacco : and then compli-
mented me with a long oration, the purport of
which was the value he fet on the friendlhip of

K k the

TRAVELS TN

498

the Carolinians. He faid, that when he was i
young man they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes,
knives, razors nor guns, that they then made ufe
of their own ftone axes, clay pots, flint knives,
bows and arrows ; and that he was the firft man
who brought the white people’s goods into his
town, which he did on his back from Charlellon,
five hundred miles on foot, for they had no horfes
then amongft them.

The trader then related to me an anecdote con-
cerning this ancient patriarch, which occurred
not long before.

One morning after his attendants had led him
to the council fire, before fcating himfelf, he ad-
dreffed himfelf to the people after this manner —

“ You yet love me ; what can I do now to merit
your regard ? nothing; I am good for nothing;
I cannot fee to Ihoot the buck or hunt up the
lturdy bear; I know I am but a burthen to you;
I have lived long enough ; now let my fpirit go;
I want to fee the warriors of my youth in the
country of fpirits : (bareing his bread) here is
the hatchet, take it and ftrike.” They anfwered
with one united voice, “ We will not ; we can-
not ; we want you here.”

CHAP.

fiORTH AMERICA.

499

C H A P. III.

Of their DRESS, FEASTS and DIVERTISEMENTS.

THE youth of both fexes are fond of deco-
rating themfelves with external ornaments. Th.e
men (have their head, leaving only a narrow creft:
or comb, beginning at the crown of the head,
where it is about two inches broad and about the
Tame height, and Hands frized upright ; but this
creft tending backwards, gradually widens, co-
vering the hinder part of the head and back of
the neck : the lank hair behind is ornamented
with pendant filver quills, and then jointed or
articulated filver plates ; and ufually the middle
fafcicleof hair, being by far the longeft, is wrap-
ped in a large quill of filver, or the joint of a
fmall reed, curioufly fculptured and painted, the
hair continuing through it terminates in a tail or
raft el.

Their ears are lacerated, feparating the border
'Or cartilaginous limb, which at firft is bound
round very clofe and tight with leather firings or
thongs, and anointed with frefh bear’s oil, until
healed : a piece of lead being faftened to it, by
its weight extends this cartilage an incredible
length, which afterwards being craped, or bound
found in brafs or filver wire, extends femicircul-
'arly like a bow or crefcent ; and it is then very
elaftic, even fo as to fpring and bound about with
the leaft motion or flexure of the body : this is
decorated with foft white plumes of heron feathers-.

A very curious diadem or band, about four
inches broad, and ingenioufly wrought or woven,
and curioufly decorated with ftones, beads,
wampum, porcupine quills, &c., encircles their

K k z temples ;

TRAVELS IN

500

temples ; the front peak of it being embelliffied
with a high waving plume, of crane or heron
feathers.

The clothing of their body is very Ample and
frugal. Sometimes a ruffled fhirt of fine linen,
next the Ikin, and a flap, which covers their lower
parts ; this garment fomewhat refembles the an-
cient Roman breeches, or the kilt of the High-
landers ; it ufually confifts of a piece of blue
cloth, about eighteen inches wide; this they pals
between their thighs, and both ends being taken
up and drawn through a belt round their waift,
the ends fall down, one before, and the other
behind, not quite to the knee ; this flap is ufually
plaited and indented at the ends, and ornament-
ed with beads, tinfel lace. See.

The leg is furnillied with cloth boots ; they
reach from the ancle to the calf, and are orna-
mented with lace, beads, filver bells, &c.

The ftillepica or moccafin defends and adorns
the feet ; it feems to be an imitation of the an-
cient bulkin or landal, very ingenioufly made
of deer Ikins, drefled very foft, and curioully or-
namented according to fancy.

Befide this attire, they have a large mantle of
the fineft cloth they are able to purchafe, always
either of a fcarlet or blue colour ; this mantle is
fancifully decorated with rich lace or fringe
round the border, and often with little round fil-
ver, or brafs bells. Some have a flrort cloak, juft
large enough to cover the (houlders and breaft ;
this is molt ingenioufly conftrudted, of feathers
woven or placed in a natural imbricated manner,
ufually of the fcarlet feathers of the flamingo, or
others of the gayeft colour.

4

The-j

NORTH AMERICA.

5° I

They have large filver crefcents, or gorgets,
which being fufpended by a ribband round the
neck, lie upon the brealj ; and the arms are orna-
mented with filver bands, or bracelets, and filver
and gold chains, &c. a collar invefts the neck.

The head, neck and breaft, are painted with
vermillion, and fome of the warriors have the
ikin of the breaft, and mufcular parts of the body,
very curioufly infcribed, or adorned, with hiero-
glyphick fcrolls, flowers, figures of animals, ftars,
crefcents, and the fun in the centre of the breaft,.
This painting of the flefli, I underftand, is per-
formed in their youth, by pricking the flcin with
a needle, until the blood ftarts, and rubbing in a
jblueifh tinft, which is as permanent as their life.
The fhirt hangs loofe about the waift, like a
frock, or fplit down before, refembling a gown,
and is fometimes wrapped clofe, and the waift en-
circled by a curious belt or fafh.

The drefs of the females is fomewhat different
from that of the men : their flap or petticoat is
made after a different manner, is larger and lon-
ger, reaching almoft to the middle of the leg, and
is put on differently ; they have no Ihirt or lliift,
but a little fliort waiftcoat, ufually made of cal-
lico, printed linen, or fine cloth, decorated with
lace, beads, &c. They never wear boots or
ftockings, but their bulkins reach to the middle
of the leg. They never cut their hair, but plait
jt in wreaths, which are turned up, and faftened
on the crown, with a filver broach, forming a
wreathed top-knot, decorated with an incredible
quantity of filk ribbands, of various colours,
which dream down on every fide, almoft, to the
ground. 1 hey never paint, except ihofe of a
particular clafs, when difpofed to grant certain
favours to the other fex.

K k

O

But

TRAVELS IN

502

But thefe decorations are only to be confidered
as indulgences on particular occafions, and the
privilege of youth ; as at weddings, feftivals^
dances, &c., or when the menaffemble to ad the
war farce, on the evening immediately preced-
ing their march on a hoftile expedition : for
ufually they are almoft naked, contenting them-
felves wfth the flap and fometimes a fhirt, boots
and moccalins. The mantle is feldom worn by
the men, except at night, in the winter feafon,
when extremely cold ; and by the women at
dances, when it ferves the purpofe of a veil; and
the females always wear the jacket, flap, and
bufkin, even children as foon or before they can
walk ; whereas the male youth go perfectly naked
until they are twelve or fifteen years of age.

The junior priefts or fludents conftantly wear
the mantle or robe, which is white ; and they
have a great owl fkin cafed and fluffed very in-
genioufly. fo well executed, as almoft to repre-
fent the living bird, having large fparkling glafs
beads, or buttons, fixed in the head for eyes :
this enfign of wifdom and divination, they wear
fometimes as a creft on the top of the head, at
other times the image fits on the arm, or is borne
on the hand, Thcfe bachelors are alfo diftin-
guifhablc from the other people, by their tacitur-
nity, grave and folemn countenance, dignified
ftep, and finging to themfelves fongs or hymns,
in a low fweet voice, as they ftroll about the
towns.

Thefe people like all other nations, are fond of
mufic and dancing : their raufic is both vocal and
inftrumental ; but of the latter they have fcarcely
any thing worth the name; the tambour, rattle-
gourd, and a kind of flute, made of a joint of reed

Of

NORTH AMERICA, 303

or the tibia of the deer’s leg : on this inftrument:
they perform badly, and at beft it is rather a hide-
ous melancholy dilcord, than harmony. It is only
young fellows who amufe themfelves on this
howling inftrument ; but the tambour and rattle,
accompanied with their fweet low voices, pro-
uce a pathetic harmony, keeping exadt time
together, and the countenance of the mufician,at
pi oper times, feems to exprefs the folemn elevated
ltate of the mind : at that time there feems not
only a harmony between him and his inftrument
but it inftantly touches the feelings of the atten-
tive audience, as the influence of an adtive and
powerful fpirit ; there is then an united univerfal
lenlation of delight and peaceful union of fouls
throughout the aflembly.

Their mufic, vocal and inftrumental, united
keeps exadt time with the performers or dancers!

They have an endlefs variety of fteps, but the
molt common, and that which I term the moft
civil, and indeed the moft admired and pradtifed
among ft themfelves, is a flow fhuffling alternate
itep ; both feef. move forward one after the other
“ .the right foot foremoft, and next the left’
moving one after the other, in oppofite circles"
1. e. nrlt a circle of young men, and within, a
circle ot young women, moving together oppo-
flte ways the men with the courle of the fun, and
the females contrary to it ; the men ftrike their
arm with the open hand, and the girls clap hands
and raife their fliriil fweet voices, anfwering an
elevated fhout of the men at ftated times of ter-
mination of the ftanzas ; and the girls perforin
an interlude or chorus feparately.

To accompany their dances they have fon^

Kk4

TRAVELS IN

5°4

of different claffes, as martial, bacchanalian and
amorous; which laft, I muft confefs, are extra-
vagantly libidinous ; and they have moral fongs,
which feem to be the moft efteemed and pradif.
ed, and anfwer the purpofe of religious ledures.

Some of their moft favourite fongs and dances,
they have from their enemies, the Chadaws; for it
feemsthefe people are very eminent forpoetry and
mufic; every town amongft them ftrives to excel
each other in compofing new fongs for dances ;
&nd by a cuftom amongft them, they muft have
at leaft one new fong, for exhibition, at every
annual bulk.

The young muftee, who came with me to the
Mucclaffes from Mobile, having Chadaw blood
in his veins from his mother, was a fenfible young
fellow, and by his father had been inftruded in
reading/writing and arithmetic, and could fpeak
Englilli very well. He took it into his head to
travel into the Chadaw country : his views were
magnanimous, and his defigns in the higheft de-
gree commendable, nothing lefs than to inform
himfelf of every fpecies of arts and fciences, that
might be of ufe and advantage when introduced
into his own country, but more particularly mil-
lie and poetry. With thefe views he privately
left the Nation, went to Mobile, and there en-
tered into the fervice of the trading company to
the Chadaws, as a white man ; his eafy, com-
municative, adive and familiar difpofition and
manners, being agreeable to that people, pro-
cured him accefs every where, and favoured his
fubtilty and artifice : at length, however, the
Chadaws hearing of his lineage and confangui-
nity with the Creeks, by the father’s fide, pro-
nounced him a Creek, and conlequently an ene-
my

NORTH AMERICA.

5«5

my and a fpy amongft them, and fecretly refolved
to difpatch him. The young philofopher got
notice of their fufpicions, and hoftile intentions,
in time to make his efcape ; though clofely pur-
fued, he kept a head of his fanguinary purfuers,
arrived at Mobile, and threw himfelf under the
proteftion of the Englifh, entered the fervice of
the trader of Mucclaflc, who was then fetting off
for the Nation, and notwithftanding the fpeed
with which we travelled, narrowly efcaped the
ardour and vigilance of his purfuing enemies, who
furprifed a company of emigrants, in the defarts
of Schambe, the very night after we met them,
expecting to intercept him thereabout.

The young traveller having learned all their
moll celebrated new fongs and poetry, at a great
dance and feftival in the Mucclaffe, a day or two
after our arrival, the youth prefled him to give
out fome of his new fongs ; he complied with,
their entreaties, and the fongs and dance went
round with harmony and eclat. There was a
young Chaftaw Have girl in the circle^ who foon
after difcovered very affedling fenfations of af-
flidlion and diftrefs of mind, and before the con-
clufion of the dance, many of her companions
complimented her with fympathetic fighs and
tears, from their own fparkling eyes. As foon
as 1 had an opportunity, I inquired of the young
Orpheus, thecaufe of that fong being fo diftrefl-
ing to the young flave. He replied, that when
(lie was lately taken captive, her father and bro-
thers were flain in the conteft, and fhe under-
ftanding the fenfe of the fong, called to remem-
brance the tragical fate of her family, and could
pot forbear weeping at the recital.

The

£06 TRAVELS II?

The meaning of the chorus was*'

All men muft furely die,

Tho’ no one knows how foon.

Yet when the time fhall come;

The event may be joyful.

Thefe doleful moral fongs or elegies, have 3.
quick and fenlible effect on their paffions, and
difcover a lively affedlion and fenfibility : their
countenance now dejedled, again, by an eafy
tranfition, becomes gently elevated, as if in
folemn addrefs or fupplication, accompanied
with a tremulous, fweet, lamentable voice : a
ftranger is for a moment loft to himfelf as it were,
or his mind, affociated with the perfon immedi-
ately affedled, is in danger of revealing his own
diftrefs unawares.

They have a variety of games for exercife and
paftime ; fome particular to the men, fome to the
female fex, and others wherein both fexes are
pngaged.

The ball play is efteemed the mod noble and
manly exercife. This game is exhibited in an
extenfive level plain, ufually contiguous to the
town : the inhabitants of one town play againft
another, in confequence of a challenge, when the
youth of both fexes are often engaged, and fome-
times flake their whole fubftance. Here they
perform amazing feats of ftrength and agility.
The game principally confifts in taking and car-
rying off the ball from the oppofite party, after
being hurled into the air, midway between two
high pillars, which are the goals, and the party
who bears off the ball to their pillar wins the
game ; each perfon has a racquet or hurl, which
is an implement of a very curious confirmation,

fome what

NORTH AMERICA. 5°7

fomewhat refembling a ladle or little hoop-net,
with a handle near three feet in length, the hoop
and handle of wood, and the netting of thongs of
Taw hide, or tendons of an animal.

The foot ball is likewifea favourite, manly di-»
verfion with them. Feafting and dancing in the
fquare at evening, ends all their games.

They have befides, feafts or feftivals almoft for
every month in the year, which are chiefly dedi-
cated to hunting and agriculture.

The bufk, or feaft of firft fruits, is their prin-
cipal feftival ; this feems to end the laft, and be-
gin the new year.

It commences in Auguft, when their new crops
of corn are arrived to perfect maturity : and every
town celebrates the bufk feparately, when their
own harveft is ready.

If they have any religious rite or ceremony,
fhis feftival is its moft folemn celebration.

When a town celebrates the bufk, having pre-
yioufly provided themfelves with new cloaths,
new pots, pans and other houfehold utenfils and
furniture, they collect all their worn out clothes
and other defpicable things, fweep and cleanfe
their houfes, fquares, and the whole town, of
their filth, which with all the remaining grain and
other old provifions, they caft together into one
common heap, and confume it with fire. After
having taken medicine, and fafted for three days,
all the fire in the town is extinguifhed. During
this faft they abftain from the gratification of
every appetite and paflion whatever. A general
amnefty is proclaimed, all malefaftors may re-
turn to their town, and they are abfolved from

their

TRAVELS IN

5°S

their crimes, which are now forgotten, and they
reftored to favour.

On the fourth morning, the high prieft, by rub-
bing dry wood together, produces new fire in the
public fquare, from whence every habitation in
the town is fupplied with the new and pure flame.

Then the women go forth to the harveft field,
and bring from thence new corn and fruits, which
being prepared in the beft manner, in various
difhes, and drink withal, is brought with folem-
nity to the fquare, where the people are affem-
bled, apparelled in their new clothes and decor-
ations. The men having regaled themfelves, the
remainder is carried off and diftributed amongft
the families of the town. The women and chil-
dren folaCe themfelves in their feparate families,
and in the evening repair to the public fquare,
where they dance, fing, and rejoice during the
whole night, obferving a proper and exemplary
decorum : this continues three days, and the
four following days they receive vifits, and re-
joice with their friends from neighbouring towns,
who have purified and prepared themfelves.

CHAP.

HORTH AMERICA.

5°9

CHAP. IV.

Concerning PROPERTY, AGRICULTURE, ARTS and
■ MANUFACTURES.

IT has been faid by hiftorians, who have writ-
ten concerning the cuftoms and ufages of the
aborigines of America, that they have every
thing in common, and no private property ;
which are terms in my opinion too vague and
general, when applied to thefe people. From
my own frequent opportunities of obfervation,
and the information of refpedtable chara&ers,
who have fpent many years amongft them, I ven-
ture to fet this matter in a juft view before my
readers.

I fhall begin with the produce of their agri-
cultural labours.

An Indian town *s generally fo fituated, as to
be convenient for procuring game, fecure from
fudden invafion, having a large diftricft of excel-
lent arable land adjoining, or in its vicinity, if
poffible on an ifthmus betwixt two waters, or
where the doubling of a river forms a peninfula.
Such a fituation generally comprifes a fufficient
body of excellent land for planting Corn, Pota-
toes, Beans, Squafh, Pumpkins, Citrifts, Melons,
& c., and is taken in with a fmall expence and
trouble of fencing, to fecure the crops from the
invafion of predatory animals. At other times
however they choofe fuch a convenient fertile
fpot at fome diftance from their town, when
circumftances will not admit of having both to-
gether.

This

£'0

TRAVELS IN

This is their common plantation, and t'iid
whole town plant in one vaft held together ; but
•yet the part or Ihare of every individual family or
habitation, is feparated from the next adjoining,
by a narrow ftrip, or verge of grafs, or any other
natural or artificial boundary.

In the fpring, the ground being already pre-
pared, on one and the fame day, early in the
morning, the whole town is fummoned, by the
found of a conch (hell, from the mouth of he
overfeer, to meet at the public fquare, whither
the people repair with their hoes and axes ,
from thence proceed to their plantation where
they begin to plant, not every one in his own
little difttift, ‘aligned and laid out, but the whole
community united begins on one certain part of
the field where they plant on until fimfhed , and
when heir rifing crops are ready for dreffing and
cleanfing, they proceed after the fame order, and
fo on day after day, until the crop is laid by for
ripening. After the feaft of the bufk is over and
all the grain is ripe, the whole town again afTem-

all0ttCd t0

i depofits in his own granary ; which is indivi-
dually his own. But previous to their carrying

off their crops from the field, there is a large cri
oft tneir ciuj . h plantatl0n, which is

clllfd theAbgb crib ; and' to this each family
another purpofe, 1. e‘ th , j contributions,

K^h^tSS-ightof^

north America.

5ri

and equal accefs, when his own private (lores are
contumed ; to ferve as a furplus to fly to for fuc-
cour; to affift neighbouring towns, whofe crops
may have felled ; accommodate flrangers, or tra-
ellers • afford provifions or fupplies, when they
go forth on hoftile expeditions ; and for all other

°k thf ftate : and this treafure is at the
difpofal of the king or mico ; which is furely a

royal attribute, to have an exclufive right and
abihty m a community to diftnbute comfort and
bleflings to the neceffitous.

As to mechanic arts or manufactures, at ore-
fent they have fcarcely any thing worth obferva
tion, fince they are fupplied with neceffaries
conveniences, and even fuperfluities by the white
traders. The memperform nothing except ered-

Jin§ f e!r mean habltations, forming their canoes'
ftone pipes, tambour, eagles tail or ftandard and
fome other tnfling matters; for war and homing
are their principal employments. The women arl
more vigilant, and turn their attention to various
manual employments ; they make all their pot
tery or earthen-ware, moccafins, fpin and weave

aceTn"! kSKann dkdems for fabricam
rel, &c. Ic! embr°lder and decora^ their appa-

CHAP.

5IZ

TRAVELS IN'

CHAP. V.

OF their MARRIAGE and FUNERAL CEREMONIES.

AS to their marriage ceremonies, they are very
limple, yet differ greatly in the various nations
and tribes. Amongfl fome or the bancs in the
Mufcogulge confederacy, I was informed the
myftery is performed after the following manner.
When a young man has fixed his affections, and
is determined to marry, he takes a Cane or Reed,
fuch as they (lick down at the hills of their Bean
vines for their fupport : with this (after having
obtained her parents’ or neared relations’ con-
fent) he repairs to the habitation of his beloved,
attended by his friends and alfociates, and in the
prefence of the wedding guefts, he flicks his
Reed down, upright in the ground ; when loon
after his fweet-heart comes forth with another
Reed, which fhe flicks down by the fide of his,
when they are married : then they excnange

Reeds, which are laid by as evidences or certifi-
cates of the marriage, which is celebrated with
feafting, mufic and dancing : each one of their
relations and friends, at the wedding, contribute
fomething towards eftablilhing the new family.
As foon as the wedding is over, the town is con-
vened, and the council orders or recommends a
new habitation to be conftruded for the accom-
modation of the new family ; every man in the
town joins in the work, which is begun and
finilhcd in a day’s time.

The greateft accompli foments to recommend
a young man to his favourite maid, are *° PrPJ.e
himfelf a brave warrior, and a cunning, m u 1

ous hunter. They

NORTH AMERICA. 5I3

They marry only for a year’s time, and, accord-
ing to ancient cuftom, at the expiration of the
year they renew the marriage : but there is fel-
dom an inftance of their feparating after they
have children. If it Ihould fo happen, the mo-
ther takes the children under her own prote&ion,
though the father is obliged to contribute to-
wards their maintainance during their minority
and the mother’s widowhood.

The Mufcogulges allow of polygamy in the
utmoft latitude ; every man takes as many wives
as he choofes, but the firft is queen, and the
others her handmaids and affociates.

It is common for a great man amongft them,
who has already half a dozen wives, if he fees
a child of eight or nine years of age, who pleafes
him, and he can agree with her parents or guar-
dians, to marry her and take her into his houfe at
that age.

Adultery is always punifhed with cropping,
which is the only corporal punifhment amongft
them ; and death or out-lawry for murder ; and
infamy for lefs crimes, as fornication, theft, &c.,
which produces fuch repeated marks and reflec-
tions of ridicule and contempt, that it generally
ends in voluntary banifhment ; and thefe rene-
gadoes and vagabonds are generally the ruffians
who commit depredations and murders on the
frontiers.

The Mufcogulges bury their deceafed in the
earth. They dig a four-fquare deep pit under the
c^bin or couch which the deceafed lay on, in his
houfe, lining the grave with Cyprefs bark, where
they place the corpfe in a fitting pofture, as if it
were alive ; depositing with him his gun, toma-

L 1 hawk,

TRAVELS IN

P4

hawk, pipe, and fuch other matters as he had the
great eft value for in his life time. His eldeft
wife, or the queen dowager, has the fecond choice
of his pofleffions, and the remaining effe&s are
divided amongft his other wives and children.

The Chaftawa pay their laft duties and refpedt
to the deceaf'ed in a very different manner. As
foon as a perfon is dead* they erect a fcaffold
eighteen or twenty feet high, in a grove adjacent
to the town, where they lay the corpfe, lightly
covered with a mantle : here it is differed to re-
main, vifited and protected by the friends and
relations, until the fleth becomes putrid, fo as
eafily to part from the bones ; then undertakers,
who make it their bufmefs, carefully ftrip the
flelh from the bones, wafh and cleanfe them, and
when dry and purified by the air, having pro-
vided a eurioufly wrought cheft or coffin, fabri-
cated of bones and fplints, they place all the
bones therein ; it is then depofited in the bone-
houfe, a building eretfted for that purpofe in
every town. And when this houfe is full, a ge-
neral folemn funeral takes place ; the neap-
ed kindred or friends of the deceafed, on a
clay appointed, repair to the bone-houfe, take up
the reipeftive coffins, and following one another
in order of feniority, the neareft relations and
connexions attending their relpeftive corpfe, and
the multitude following after them, all as one
family, with united voice of alternate Allelujah
and lamentation, flowly proceed to the place of
general interment, where they place the coffins
in order, forming a pyramid * ; and laftly, cover

* Some ingenious men, whom I have converted with, have given it as
their opinion, chat all thofe pyramidal artificial hills, ufually called Indian
jn u its, were railed on thefe occafions, and are generally fcpulchres. How-
ever 1 n> of a different opinion.

.all

NORTH AMERICA.

5*5

•all over with earth, which raifes a conical hill or
mount. Then they return to town in order of
folemn proceflion, concluding the day with a
-feftival, which is called the feafl of the dead.

The Chadtaws are called by the traders flats,
or flat-heads, all the males having the fore and
hind part of their fkulls artificially flattened, or
comprefled ; which is effedled after the following
manner. As foon as the child is born, the nurfe
provides a cradle or wooden cafe, hollowed and
fafhioned, to receive the infant, lying proftrate on
its back, that part of the cafe where the head re-
pofes, being fafhioned like a brick mould. In
this portable machine the little boy is fixed, a bag
of fand being laid on his forehead, which by con-
tinual gentle compreflion, gives the head fome-
what the form of a brick from the temples up-
wards ; and by thefe means they have high and
lofty foreheads, floping off backwards. Thefe
men are not fo neat in the trim of their heads, as
the Mufcogulges are, and they are remarkably
flovenly and negligent in every part of their
drefs ; but otherwife they are faid to be inge-
nious, fenfible and virtuous men ; bold and in-
trepid, yet quiet and peaceable, and are acknow-
ledged by the Creeks to be brave,.

They are fuppofed to be mod ingenious and
induftrious hufbandmen, having large planta-
tions, or country farms, where they employ much
of their time in agricultural improvements, after
the manner of the white people ; by which means
their territories are more generally cultivated,
and better inhabited, than any other Indian re-
public that we know of. The number of their
inhabitants is faid greatly to exceed the whole
Mufcogulge confederacy, although their terri-

L 1 a tori.es

TRAVELS IN

5l6

tories are not a fourth part as extenfive. It
appeared to me from obfervation, and what
information I could get, that the Indians enter-
tain rational notions of the foul’s immortality,
and of a future flate of focial exiftence ; and ac-
cordingly, in order to inculcate morality, and
promote human happinefs, they applaud praife-
worthy actions, as commendable and necefiary
for the fupport of civil fociety, and maintaining
the dignity and ftrength of their nation or tribe,
as well as fecuring an excellent and tranquil ftate
and degree in the world of fpirits, after their de-
ceafe. And they fay the Great Spirit favours all
good and brave men.

CHAP.

NORTH AMERICA.

517

CHAP. VI.

LANGUAGE and MANNERS.

The Mufcogulge language is fpoken through-
out the confederacy, (although confiftingof many
nations, who have a fpeech peculiar to them-
felves) as alfo by their friends and allies, the
Natches. The Chicafaw and Chadtaw, the Muf-
cogulges fay are dialefts of theirs.

This language is very agreeable to the ear,
courteous, gentle and mufical : the letter R is
not founded in one word of their language : the
women in particular fpeak fo fine and mufical, as
to reprefentthe fingingof birds ; and when heard
and not feen, one might imagine it to be the
prattling of young children. The men’s fpeech
is indeed more ltrong and fonorous, but not
harfh, and in no inftance guttural, and I believe
the letter R is not ufed to exprefs any word, in
any language of the confederacy.

The Cherokee tongue, on the contrary, is very
loud, fomewhat rough and very fonorous, found-
ing the letter R frequently, yet very agreeable
and pleafant to the ear. All the Indian lan-
guages are truly rhetorical, or figurative, aflift-
ing their fpeech by tropes ; their hands, flexure
of the head, the brow, in fhort, every member,
naturally affociate, and give their afliftance to
render their harangues eloquent, perfuafive and
effeftual.

The pyramidal hills or artificial mounts, and
high-ways, or avenues, leading from them to ar-
tificial lakes or ponds, vaft tetragon terraces,

chunk

TRAVELS IN

518

chunk yards*, and obelifks or pillars of wood, are
the only monuments of labour, ingenuity and
magnificence, that I have feen worthy of notice,,
or remark. The region lying between Savanna
river and Oakmulge, Eaft and Weft, and from
the fea coaft to the Cherokee or Apalacheaa
mountains. North and South, is the moft remark-
able for thefe high conical hills, tetragon terraces,
and chunk yards. This region was poflefted by
the Cherokees, fince the arrival of the Europeans,
but they were afterwards difpoflefied by the Muf-
cogulges, and all that country was probably,
many ages preceeding the Cherokee invafion,
inhabited by one nation or confederacy, who were
ruled by the fame fyftem of laws, cuftoms and
language , but fo ancient, that the Cherokees,
Creeks, or the nation they conquered, could ren-
der no account for what purpofe thefe monuments
were raifed. The mounts and cubical yards ad-
joining them, feem to have been raifed in part
for ornament and recreation, and likewifeto ferve
fome other public purpofe, fince they are always
fo fituatedas to command the moft extenfive pro-
fpeft over the town and country adjacent. The
tetragon terraces feem to be the foundation of a
fcrrtrefs ; and perhaps the great pyramidal mounts,
ferved the purpofe of look out towers, and high
places for facrifice. The funken area, called by
white traders the chunk yard, very likely ferved
the fame conveniency that it has been appropri-
ated to it by the more modern and even prefent
nations of Indians, that is, the place where they
burnt and otherwife tortured the unhappy cap-

* Chunk yard, a term given by the white traders, to the oblong four fguare
yards, adjoining the h gti mounts and rotundas of the modern Indians. — In
the centre of thefe hands the obcliflc, and at each corner of the farther end
hands a (lave port or ftrong flake, where the captives that are burnt alive arc
Vound.

tives.

NORTH AMERICA,

5'9

lives that were condemned to die; as the area is
furrounded by a bank, and fometitnes two of
them, one behind and above the other, as feats,
to accommodate the fpe&ators at fuch tragical
fcenes, as well as the exhibition of games, , (hows,
and dances. From the river St. Juans, foutherly
to the point of the peninfula of Florida, are to be
feen high pyramidal mounts, with fpacious and
extenfive avenues, leading from them out of the
town, to an artificial lake or pond of water;
thefe were evidently defigned in part for orna-
ment or monuments of magnificence, to perpe-
tuate the power and grandeur of the nation, and
ndt inconfiderable neither, for they exhibit fcenes
of power and grandeur, and mull have been
public edifices.

The great mounts, highways, and artificial lakes
up S. Juans, on the Eaft fhore, juft at the entrance
of the great Lake George, one on the oppofite
fhore, on the bank of the Little Lake, another
on Dunn’s Illand, a little below Charlo'tteville,
one on the large beautiful ifland juft without
the Capes of Lake George, in fight of Mount
Royal, and a fpacious one on the Weft banks of
the Mufquitoe river near New Smyrna, are the
moft remarkable of this fort that occurred to me;
but undoubtedly many more are yet to be dif-
covered farther South in the peninfula ; however
I obferved none Weftward, after I left St. Juans
on my journey to little St. Juan, near the bay of
Apalache.

But in all the region of the Mufcogulge coun-
try, South-Weft from the Oakmulge River quite
to the Tallapoofe, down to the city of Mobile,
and thence along the fea coaft, to the Miffiffipi,
1 faw no figns of mountains or highways, except

520 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.

at Taenia, where were feveral inconfiderable co-.
nical mountains ; and but one inftanceof the te-
tragon terraces, which was at the Apalachucla
old town, on the Well banks of that river : here
were yet remaining confpicuous monuments, as
vail four fquare terraces, chunk yards, &c., alrnoll
equalling thofe eminent ones at the Oakmulge
fields ; but no high conical mounts. Thofe In-
dians have a tradition that thefe remains are the
ruins of an ancient Indian town and fortrefs. I
was not in the interior parts of the Chadlaw ter-
ritories, and therefore am ignorant whether there
are any mounts or monuments there.

To conclude this fubjedt concerning the
monuments of the Americans, I deem it necelfary
to obferve as my opinion, that none of them
that I have feen difcover the leall figns of the
arts, fciences, or architedlure of the Europeans
or other inhabitants of the old world ; yet evi-
dently betray every fign or mark of the moll
dillant antiquity.

»

INDEX.

1

INDEX.

A

AGAVE vivipara — - —

Alabama — — — .

Alachua favanna

Alatamaha, voyage up the —

account of the — —

Alligator Hole ' — — - —

battle with an — —

Alligators, battle between two — .

author attacked by —

t brood of, numerous — — ,

■ nefts of — —

— • old, feed on the young —

deferibed — —

Amelia ifland — — -

Amite river — — -

Ampelis garrulus — — .

Angelica lucida — —

Animals and vegetables compared —

general obfervation on — -

affections of — —

mental faculties of — —

remarkable fragility of parts of —

influence of country on —

Annona, new fpecies of __

Apalachucla —

Arum efculentum cultivated for food in Georgia

rida — _

Arundo gigantea — __

Aldus, various fpecies of —

Augufta, journey to — __

^ — deferibed — „ _

Author attacked by a fever _

t violent diforder in the eyes

xtx

427

185

47

226
248
1 16

XI7> **3

124

125

126
ib.

63

423

296

3^5

xiv

xvi

xvii

xviii
194, 276

214
18, 169

, 387

and Flo-
467
408

383

2$

32* 3r4
400
416, 418
Banks

INDEX

B

%

Banks of the river St. Juan higher than the adjacent
plains — — — ,65

Battle between cray-fifh and gold-fifh — . 43

■ two alligators — 116

Bears — — 278

Bees, none in Weft Florida, though plenty in Eaft 41 1
Birds, obfervations on . — xxi

— — on the migration of — - 280, 29J

— ■ of paffage, American — 285

— change their colour — 296

■ wild, fing only at the time of incubation xxii, 299

Boat, portable — — 457

Bream, golden — — 15 1

— great black or blue — 174

. great yellow, or particoloured — ib.

Bridge, Indian — — 443

Brunfwick, town of — — 471

Buffalo, not now to be found where once numerous 44

Bull fnake — — 272.

Butterflies — — xix

C

Cacalia heterophylla — -

Ca&us opuntia — —

Cambelton — —

Cancer macrourus, war of the gold-fifh on the
Cane meadows, vaft — —

Canna Indica — —

Carica papaya — ■ —

Cat bird — •• —

Cattle, dreadful difeafe of —

Cedar bird ■ — —

Chaftaws — —

Chameleon — —

Charlefton, voyage from Philadelphia to
Charlotta — —

Chat, yellow breafled — —

Chicken fnake —

Clarendon river — ~

Clay, fort of, eaten greedily by cattle

162

161

476

43

23 1
424

129

297

203

296

51?

276

1

9r

3°o

271

476

39

Cleome

INDEX

Cleome lupinifolia — - • —

Cliffs, defcription of the —

^Coachwhip fnake — —

Cochineal infedt — —

Collinfonia, fpecies of, febrifuge
Colymbus cauda elongata —

Convolvulus diffedtus —

Coolome town — —

Cornus florida —

Cowe — —

Coweta — —

Cow-pen, account of a —

Crane, flight of the —

• nefts and eggs of the —

■ — favanna —

Creeks, Upper, alliance of, with the Englifli

. account of the —

■■ — Lower, or Siminoles —

Crofs-Creeks —

Crown bird — —

Crying bird — . —

Cucurbita lagenaria —

Cupreflus diflicha — -

. new fpecies of —

Curlews, Spanifh — •

Cufcowilla, journey to —

, defcription of —

Cyprinus coronarius — -

4*3

433

217

i6t

409
130
102
394
399
35°» 364

387

308

~*44

199

218

— 53

208, 463
209

475

296

H5

477

88

409

146

168

189

*5*

D

Deer, herd of — • —•198

Dionaea mufcipula — — - xiii, 470

Dog brought up to tend horfes — 220

Dove, ground — — 8

Dyeing, bark of the gordonia lafianthus ufeful in 160

Eagles, various — —

Earth, on the produce of the different zones of the

* remarks on certain flrata of —

Elks only to be found in the Apalachean mountains
Emberi?a oryzivora — .

8

ix

433

45

294

Ephemersp

INDEX

Ephemera —

Erythryna corallodendrum

78—81

160

F

Falco pifcatorius — 8

Falling Creek — — 339

Fafcinating power of the rattlefnake — • 263

Febrifuge virtues of a fpecies of Collinfonia — 409

Felis cauda truncata — 278

Fern, curious fpecies of — 476

Filh, red-belly — — 12

vaft quantity of, in the river St. Juans 12 1

- — - of prey and others living peaceably together in pellucid
water — — 164, 166, 227

106
374
383

- 55

75

373

3i3

221

328

278

279
I94, 276

465
60

- 3°3

43i

— 43 2

- 272

Fifhing, mode of —

Flat-rock — —

F'lies, various fpecies of —

Florida, journey to —

Eaft, very good Indigo made in

W eft, journey to —

Fort Moore —

James

Fox

Prince George Keowe

— fquirrels — ■

Fragility, extraordinary in animals
Franklinia Alatamaha
Frederica, town and fort of

voyage to —

French fettlement

Frogs, various fpecies of

broken up by the Indians

G

Garr, great brown fpotted
Georgia, voyage to —

iflands on the coaft of

Gerardea flammea
Glafs-fnake —

Gold fifh, war of, on the cray fifh
defcribed —

Gopher

— — *73

— 4

— . 5> 65

why thinly inhabited 64
— — 410

— 193

— 43

— 44

— 18, 180

finrdonia

INDEX.

Gordonia lafianthus — — 159

Gourd, ufeful fpecies of — - — 477

Grape vines — — — 84, 398

Grapes, Indian mode of preferving — — 398

Grafs, peculiar fpecies of — — 128

Graves, Indian — ■ — — 137

Green fnake — — — 271

Grus pratenfis, flight of the — — 144

nefts and eggs of the — — 199

defcribed — — 218

H

Halefia diptera, variety of
Half-way pond — —

Hawk, filliing — —

engaged with a fnake

Hibifcus, fpecies of —

coccineus —

Hippobofca — —

Honefly, advantages of —

Horn fnake — —

Horfes, Siminole, of the Spanifh breed

kept by a dog —

• large ftud of — —

fondnefs of, for fait —

Angular mode of taming

flies extremely troublefome to

Hurricane — —

Hydrangia quercifolia —

408

— 17*

— 8
216

19, 102, 103

— 102
383
35 1

— 272
213
222

— 353

— 354
375

— 3S4
r39> 3g4

380

Indian pot, curious — — 6

interview with an — — 2,1

remarks on the moral principle of an 2Z

people, a peculiar race of —

towns, remains of 37, 196, 343, 388

• fagacity

■ mode of killing trout —

. village — —

■ wife of a white man, mifconduft of an

. defer ts the author — —

. cemetery — —

39

44

90

109

1 r3

Indian

INDEX.

Indian chiefs —

foup —

towns — -

punifhment for adultery
public buildings -

antiquities —

feftivals — -

towns and villages, lifts of
languages —

wedding

— — 189

1 89> 327, 348, 384, 394
— an, 4+6, 513
302, 365, 448, 4152
322, 365, 370, 455, 519

233> 367>449> 5°7

— 3-1,461

386, 461, 463, 517

444> 5 12

wife

• ftandard -

■ painting and fculpure

• canoes —

•jelly —

mufic —

■ drinking bout

• women, artifice of
games

chiefs revenge on a trader caught in adultery with his

— 446

— 453

— 454

— ■ 225

— 239
H3> 5°3

2S3

— 254

— 506
xxiii, 184, 208

— 33>23$

~ 38

— 61

— 76

22, 1 10, 208, 488
258

— i8z

— ib.

182, 184, 189, 207,

349, 367, 448.
1S9, 36$> 386, 395, 444

— 210

— 21 1, 390

378

ndians, remarks on the —

— — treaties with the —

food of — —

plunder the ftores —

matters accommodated with the

virtues of —

— — veneration of, for 'the rattlefnake

form of falutation amongft

vifit to the —

— — manners and cuftoms of the

• habitations of the

■ vices of the —

• wars of the — —

• migration of the ~

• mafiacre of the whites by — •

■ roving difpofition of the

■ carry off a party of emigrants
murder fome white travellers

• hunting party of —

party of, in purfuit of an adulterer
fondnefs of, for fpirits —

conference with —

. perfons and qualifications of the

. government and civil fociety of the

■ drefs, feafts, and diverfions of

388 note

389

444

235

242

243
253
25S

481

492

499

Indians

INDEX.

Indians property, agriculture,, arts, and manufactures of the

T — COQ

— marriage ceremonies of the

funeral ceremonies of the

51a

5*3

75

374

Indigo, very good, made in Eaft Florida _

Ipomea, fpecies of

Iron ore — ,

Iflands on the coaft of Georgia ’ ^

" ‘ why thinly inhabited

Me of Palms

floating

in Lake George

64

86

100

*55

J-

Jelly, Indian —

Jore mountains .

Journey to Cufcowilla _

Talahafochte —

“ from Charlefton to the Cherokee country

over the Jore mountain

from Fort Charlotte to Weft Florida

* from Apalachucla to Mobile __

• Savanna to Philadelphia

Juglans, manner in which the Indians ufe the fruit of a

fpecies of __ __

*3?

360

168

2I3

306

357

373

394

467

3*

K

Kalmia, new fpecies of —

Keowe —

— iS

328

\ L

Lacerta, fpecies of

Lake Ouaquaphenogaw

George —

Lantana camerara ,

Laurel magnolia _ __

Lettuce, Indian

Liberty, obfervations on __

Lime, wild _

Lizard, fpecies of _

Lupin, fpecies of

Lynx —

17°* 276

— 24

~ 99

— • IOI

— 4Z

— 184

— • 112.

I7°> 276
— 19

— 278

Magnolia,

INDEX*

M

Magnolia, laurel — — • — - %

— peculiar Ipecies of — 1 59* 33 ^

— grandiflora — — 169

. auriculata — — — 337

Malva, various fpecies of — — 32$

Manate Spring — — — — 228

Meleagris occidentalis — — 81

Mice, white — — — 277

Milk, hiccory — — — 38

Mimofa fenfitiva, new fpecies of — 24

- — virgata — — — 4*9

— — pudica — — — 428

Miffiffippi river — — — 425

Mobile, journey from Apalachucla to 394

town of — — — 402,

Moccafin fnake — — 268, 269

Moral principle of an Indian, remarks on the 22

Motacilla trochilus — — 3°°

Mount Royal — — 96

Mudfifh — — x74

Mufcicapa vertice nigro — 297

Mufcle, horned — — 43 1

Myrica inodora — — 4°3

N

Natural produftions, obfervations on
New-Smyrna —

Nymphasa nelumbo —

Nyfla coccinea —

x
142
4° 7

17

O

Oak, black —

Ocean appears to have gained on the land of America

Oenothera grandiflora “

Oil, fweet, obtained from the fruit of the live oak

Olive, Indian —

37

82

66

404

83
4i

Palm tree

"3

Palmetto

INDEX

Palmetto royal —

Panicum hirtellum —

Parakeet —

Pearl I (land —

Pelican defcribed —

wood^ —

Penfacola, account of

Petrifa&ions —

Phyfic^nut —

Pica glandaria cerulea non criftata —

Picolata, fort —

Pigeons, mode of catching

Pine fnake —

Piftia ftratiotes —

Pitch, how made from tar

Plains, barren , _

Plants various, obfervations on

— new !6, 3 1, 393, 415,

Plum, new fpecies of _

Pot, Indian, curious

Prinos, curious fpecies of

Pfittacus Carolinienfis

Pteris fcandens

— 473

69
428
299

4r9
68
149

4J3
473
41
170

- 78

— 467

— ■ 272

— 86

— 41 7

- 240

x

43 4> 465, 466
421

— 6

— 477
299

— 476

Rariae, various fpecies of

Rat, large ground , _

wood

Rattlefnake, veneration of the Indians for the
accounl of the

■ fafcinates its prey

■ does no injury unlefs attacked

baftard, or ground

Rhododendron, fpecies of

Ribband fnake

Rice, culture of .

Rice bird —

River, remarkably dear

Robinia, fpecies of .

Rocky point

Ruins, Indian

of a French or Spaniih fort

272

7

122
258
262
2 63
262, 264

270

334

271
1 1

294

-222

333

166

37> S3
52

M

m

410

Saint

Sage, tall blue

INDEX

Saint John’s, voyage to ‘ 68

. Juan, Little, river — — 222

Simon, account of the ifland of — 56

Salt, fondnefs of horfes for — — 354

Sarraceni i flava —

lacunofa —

Savanna, journey from, to Augufta
Sea cow — —

Senfitive plant, new fpecies of
Shells, foffile, hill of —

Silphium, fpecies of —

Siminoles, account of the —

Sinica, town of —

Sink, Great — • —

Slavery, obfervations on —

Slaves, on the treatment of
Similax pfeudo-china ufed as food
Snake, conflift of a, with a hawk
Snake bird — —

Snakes, various kinds of —

Soils, obfervations on — 23,

Spanilh fettlement, remains of —

Squirrel, various fpecies of —

Standard, Creek —

Stores plundered by the Indians
Storm, thunder _ —

— : advantages of a —

Sun filh —

- , xn

-

— 28

— 230

— 24

i-u 316

— — 396

— 209, 436

— 3a7

— 201

— 184

- 3°9

— — 239

— — 216

— ’ 130
193, 217, 262—72

29, 168, 397, 42°> 429

— 231

— 279

— 149

61

i3» *39’ 34L 384

— 75

— x?i

T

Taenfa —

Taenfapao river —

Talahafochte • —

Tallow nut —

Tanafe, river —

Tantalus piftus —

albus —

verficolor —3

lo.ulator —

Teftudo plyphemus —

nafo cylindraceo elongate

— various fpecies of

Thunder ftorm —

Tillandfia lingulata —

403

422

224

11*

337

— 145

146

— ib.

147
18, 180

. *75
277
13. 34i
59

Tillandfia

INDEX

Tillandfia ufneoides .

Tortoife, great land

foft fhelled

various fpecies of

Travelling, mode of

Trout, American mode of catching

— — defcribed

Turkey, American ,,

0 8S
1 8, 180

*75

277

43 8

106

107
14, 81

Uche town

Verbena, fpecies of
Vultur facra
aurea

U

V

w

386

434

448

150

Wampum fnake —

Wars of the Indians —

Water, hot mineral —

pellucid, curious bafon of

— — — f. bterranean channels for

great eruption of

Wax tree

Whatoga, town of

White Plains —

Wolf, narrow efcape from a

American —

Wrightlborough

— 269

' — 211,390

~ *43

*57* *63

204, 223, 244, 343

— 236

403

— 348

— 429

— 156

197, 278

~ 35

X

Xanthoxylum clava Herculis

Y

Yucca gloriofa

Z

69

Zamia pumila

160

Directions to the Binder.

Place the Map at the beginning of the work.
— Plate i to face

2 to follow -

3 to face

4 - "

s - ' ■ ’

6

7 —

p. i$
pi. i
p. •cfcJSJ//?

p-

176

380

474