COOK’S voyage
to T H I
PACIFIC OCEAN.
VOL. II.
X.
A
1
* .
»'»
-
V
A
VOYAGE
TO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN
Undertaken by Command of his MAJESTY,
for making
discoveries
i
IN THE
NORTHERN HEMISPHERE:
Performed under the Direftion of
Captains COO K, CLERKE, and GORE,
In the Years 1776, 1 777, 1778, 1779, and 1780.
Being a copious, comprehenfive, and fatisfadtory Abridgement of the
VOYAGE
WRITTEN BT
Captain JAMES COOK, F. R. S.
AND
Captain JAMES KING, LL.D. and F.R.S.
Illuftrated with CUTS.
In FOUR VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, SCATCHERD AND
WHITAKER, JOHN FIELDING, AND JOHN HARDY.
MDCCLXXXIV.
CONTENTS.
BOOK III.
OCCURRENCES AT OTAHEITE AND THE SOCIETY
ISLES; AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO
THE COAST OF NORTH-AMERIC A.
CHAP. IV.
Confiderations about Jailing — A Peace or Truce with
Eimeo on dijadvantageous Terms— O too' s Delay
in /ending Reinjor cements cenJured—A Solemnity
at the Morai on the Peace — Qbjervations thereon
Otoo s Addrejs and Art — Ornai receives a Pre -
Sent °f u IV ar Canoe — Embellifhes it with Variety
oj Streamers — Otoo' s Prejent to his Majefty —
Account oj the Modes oj Traffic, and the Jriendly
Treatment we received at Otaheite — The Expe-
dition oj Jome Spaniards — Their Endeavours to
inculcate a mean Opinion oj the Engliflj — Omni
jealous oj another Traveller. Page i
CHAP. y.
Anchor at Taloo in Eimeo— The Harbours oj Taloo
wParowroah deJcribed—ViSit from Mabeine,
ttoe Chief oj Eimeo , who approaches with Cau-
tion—Dejcr ip tion oj the Perjon oj Mahcine—Pre -
para ions made Jor Jailing — Detained by having a
oa Jo en— That recovered , and another ftolen —
Menaces ujed to occajion it to be returned— Expo-
You 11 b mL
VI
CONTENTS.
dition crofs the If and, with a Party , in fearch
of the Goat — Houfes and Canoes burnt , and
other Hojiilities threatened — The Goat returned —
The IJland defcribed , &c. Page 21
CHAP. VI.
Phe Ships arrive at Huaheine — AJJembly of the
Chiefs — Omai s Harangue — His Efablijhment in
this If and unanimoufy agreed to — A Houfe built
for him — Steps taken to enfure his Safety — The
Ships infefied with Cock-roaches — DetelHon and
Punijhment of a Phief—IIe ef capes from his Con-
finement— Animals left with Omai — His Euro-
pean Weapons — His Entertainments — Infcription
on his Houfe — His Behaviour at parting — Re-
marks on his general Conduit — His Char alter—
Account of the two New-Zealandcrs who re-
mained with him. 34
CHAP. VII.
■% r . ,
Arrival at Ulietea—One of the Marines deferts ,
but is brought back by Captain Cook — Intelli-
gence from Omai — Infruli ions to Captain Clei ke
P wo others defert — The two Captains Jci k
them in vain—Phe Chiefs Son , Daughter , and
her Hujband , confined on board the Difcovery—
Unfuccefsful Confpiracy of the Natives agatnf
the Captains— The two Deferters are recover-
ed—The Chiefs Family Jet at Liberty— The
Ships fail— Remarks on the Ulieteans—Prejent
and former State of their If and. 55
CHAP. VIII.
Proceed to Bolabola, accompanied by Oreo and others
— Application to Opoony for Monfieur de Bott-
* o
CONTENTS.
Vll
gainvilles Anchor — Reafons for pur chafing it —
Delicacy of Opoony , in not accepting the P ref ent
— Quit the Society Ifands — Defcription of Bola-
bola, and its Harbour — Curious Hiftory of the
Reduction of the two Ifands, Otaha and Ulietea
— Bravery of the Men of Bolabola — Account of
the Animals left at Bolabola and Ulietea — Procefs
of falting Pork — Curfory Obfervations refpefiting
Otaheite } and the Society Ifands. Page 71
CHAP. IX.
Strictures on former Accounts of Otaheite — The pre-
vailing Winds — Beauty and Fertility of the Coun-
try— Land but little cultivated — Produce — Na-
tural Curiofities — Defcription of the Natives —
Delicacy of the Women — I' heir general Charac-
ter— Difpofed to amorous Gratifications — Their
Language — Ignorance of Surgery and Phyfic —
Animal Food chiefly eaten by the fuperior Clafs —
Pernicious Effects of Av a — Account of their dif-
ferent Meals — Connexions between the two Sexes
— Circumcifon — Religion — Notions concerning
Immortality — Superflitions — Strange Traditions
about the Creation — The King almoft deified —
Clajfes of the People — Punifhments — Peculiari-
ties of the adjacent Ifands — Limits of their Na-
vigation. g o
CHAP. X.
Profecution of our V oyage, after our Departure from
the Society Ifies — Chrifimas Ifiand difcovered —
Supplies of Fifh and Turtle — Solar Eclipfe —
Diftrefs of two Seamen who had loft their Way — ■
Singular Mode of refrefhing himjelf pr a Fifed by
one of thefe Stragglers — Infcriplion left in a Rot-
b 2 tie
Vlll
CONTENTS.
tie — Soil of the IJland defer ihed — 'Trees and Plants
— Birds , and other Animals — Further Particu-
lars refp citing Chriftmas IJland. Page 1 1 7
CHAP. XL
Three Ifands difeovered — The Inhabitants of Atooi
approach us in their Canoes — Their Perfons de-
Jcribed — Some of them venture on board — Their
Amazement on that Occafion — Precautions againfi
importing the Venereal Difeafe into the IJland —
One of the Natives killed — The Ships cafi An-
chor— The Commodore' s Reception on landing —
His Excurfion into the Country , with Meffrs.
Webber and Anderjon — Dejcription of a Moral
and its Obelifk — The Cujlom of offering hu-
man Vi Slims prevalent among thefe People —
Curious feathered Cloaks and Caps — The Refo-
lution driven from Atooi Road — The IJle of Onee-
heow vifited — Some of our People are detained on
Shore — Animals and Seeds left at Oneeheow —
Cuftoms of the Natives — The Ships proceed to the
northward. 128
CHAP. XII.
Situation of the IJlands now difeovered by us— The
Name of Sandwich IJlands given to the whole
Group — Atooi particularly defer ibed— Its Soil —
Climate — Vegetable Produce — Birds — lift — Do-
rn ejlic Animals— The Perfons and Difpofition of
the Natives —Eflimatc of their Number— Their
Drefs and Ornaments— Houfes — Food — Mode of
Cookery — Diverftons — Mufical Injlruments —
Manufactures — Tools — Their Acquaintance with
Iron accounted for — Their Canoes deferibed —
Agriculture — Account of one of their Chiefs, who
CONTENTS.
IX
vifited Captain Clerke—' Their Weapons— Affinity
between their Manners and thofe of the Society
and Friendly Iflanders — Fheir Language — Ad-
vantageous Situation of the Sandwich Ifles .
Page 160
CHAP. XIII.
Obfervations on the Longitude, Lidcs , &c. — Proceed
on the Voyage — Weather remarkably mild as far
as the Latitude 440 North — Scarcity of Oceanic
Birds in the • Northern Hemifphere — Beautiful
Sea- Animals defcribed , fuppofed by Mr. Ander-
fon to be a new Species of Onifcus — See the Coajl
of North America - Defcription of the Country —
Difficulties atCapeFoulweather — Stormy andtem-
pcftuous Weather — Strictures on Martin d' Agui-
lar's River — Fallacy of Juan de Fuca’s pretend-
ed Strait — An Inlet difcovered — I he Ships an-
chor there , and are vifited by Numbers of the
Natives — I' heir Behaviour. 1 94
BOOK IV.
TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES OF NOR.TH-
AM ERICA; DISCOVERIES ON THAT COAST AND
THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, AND RE-
TURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
CHAP. I.
Arrival at the Sound — Moor in an excellent Har-
bour— Vifited by great Numbers of the Natives ,
who
X
CONTENTS.
who are an inoffenfive Race of People — Variety
of Articles brought to Barter , particularly hu-
man Skulls — Mifchievous Thefts committed —
The Obfervatories erebled on a Rock — Alfo a
Forge ere bled — Alarmed at feeing the Natives
arm themfelves — Dijlant Tribes not permitted by
the Natives to traffic with us — T empeftuous
Weather — A Survey of the Sound — Friendly Be-
haviour of the Natives of one of the Villages
Treatment received from an inhofpitablc Chief —
Greeted with a Song by young Women — A fecond
Vifit to one of the Villages — Grafs pur chafed —
Departure of the Ships. Page 209
C H A P. II.
Directions for failing into the Sound — The adjacent
Country defcribed — Remarks on the Weather and
Climate — Trees and other vegetable Productions
— Racoons , Martins , Squirrels , and other Qua-
drupeds — Variety of Skins brought for Sale —
Whales, and other Sea Animals — The Sea Otter
defcribed — Birds — Oceanic Birds — Fiffi — Shell
Fifh — Snakes and Lizards — Infebls — Stones —
Defcription of the Natives — Their Colour — For-
mation — Drefs and Ornaments ■ — Particular
Dreffes, and horrible wooden Mafks — Leathern
Mantle for War — Their Difpofitions — Songs —
Mufical Inftruments — Their Fondncfs for Metals ,
which they take every Opportunity of flea ling.
220
C H A P. III.
Number of Inhabitants at Nootka Sound— Manner
of building their Iloufes — Defcription of their
Jnfide, Furniture, and Utenfils — Their Filthinefs
• — Wooden
CONTENTS.
XI
, Wooden Images , called Klumma — Employments
of the Men— Indolence of the young Men— Of the
Women, and their Employments— Different Sorts
of Food, and Manner of preparing it — Bows —
Arrows — Spears — Slings, and other Wt °apons
Manufactures of Woollen, &c. — Mechanic Arts
— Defign and Execution in Carving and Fainting
— Canoes — Implements ufed in Hunting and Fight-
ing— lron T oo Is common among them — Manner of
procuring that, and other Metals — Language,
&c. Page 252
C H A P. I y.
A Storm — The Refolution fprings a Leak — Progrefs
of the Ships along the North- American Coaft —
An Inlet named Crofs Sound — Beering s Bay —
Cape Suckling — Account of Kaye's IJland — Our
Ships anchor near Cape Hinchingbroke — The Na-
tives vifit us — Their Fondnefs for Beads and
Iron — Their daring Attempt to carry off one of
our Boats — They alfo attempt to plunder the D if -
covery — Progrefs up the Sound — Mr. Gore and
the Majler fent to examine its Extent — Montague
IJland— The Ships leave the Sound. 27 5
CHAP. V.
Extent of Prince William's Sound — The Perfons of
its Inhabitants defcribed — Their Drefs — Re-
markable Cujlom of making an Incifion in the
Under-lip — Their various Ornaments — Canoes —
W eapons — Armour — Domejlic Utenfils — Their
Skill in all manual W irks — Their Food — A
Specimen of their Language — Quadrupeds — >
Birds — Fifh — Trees — Conjectures whence they
procure Beads and bon. 300
C H A P.
CONTENTS.
XI 1
CHAP. VI.
Proceed along the Coafi—Cape Elizabeth -Cape
St. Her mo genes — Beering’s Voyage and Chart
very defe Stive — Point Banks — Barren Jjles — Cape
Douglas — Cape Bede — Mount St. Auguftin — En-
deavour to find a P affage up an Inlet— Both Ships
make a Progrefs up it — Convincing Proofs of its
being a River— A Branch of it called River
Burn again. — Bhe great River named Cook’s River
Bhe hhips return — Several Vifits from the Na-
tives—Lieutenant King lands , difplays a Flag ,
and takes Poffeffion of the Country — His Reception
by the Natives — Bhe Refolution Jlrikes upon a
Bank Bhe high Bides accounted for. Page 317
CHAP. VII.
Departure from Cook's River — Pafs St. Hermogenes
— Cape Whitf unday — fVhitf untide Bay — Cape
Greville — Cape Barnabas — B ivo-headed Point —
Pi inity Ifiand — Beering’s Fcggy Iflarid — Foggy
Cape Pinnacle Point — Defcription of a curious
Bird —Account of the Schumagin Iflands — A Ruf-
fian Letter brought on board the Difcovery — •
Various Conjectures concerning it — Rock Point —
Halibut Ifiand — Halibut Head — A Volcano—
Efcape providentially — Arrival at Oonalafijka —
Brajfic with the Natives there — Another Ruffian
Letter brought on board — Defcription of the Har-
bour of Samgavoodba. 330
A V OY-
A
VOYAGE
TO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK III.
OCCURRENCES AT OTAHEITE AND THE SOCIETY
ISLES J AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO
THE COAST OF NORTH-AMERIC A.
’ ( .
■ ■■■
CHAP. IV.
i /
Confederations about failing — A Peace or 'Truce with
Eimeo on difadvantageous Terms — O tod’s Belay
in fending Reinforcements cenfured—A Solemnity
at the Moral on the Peace— Obfervations thereon
Otoo s Addrefs and Art — Omai receives a Pre-
fent of a IV ar Canos — Embellifoes it with Variety
of Streamers— Otoo’ s Prefent to his Majefty—
Account of the Modes of Traffic, and the friendly
Treatment we received at Otaheite — The Expe-
dition of fome Spaniards — Their Endeavours to
inculcate a mean Opinion of the Englifh ■ — Omai
jealous of another Traveller .
an^ his father, came on board, in
W the morning of the 22d, to know when
Captain Cook propofed failing. For, hearing
V0L.II.-~N0 7, B that
A VOYAGE TO THE
that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, he had
informed them, that he fhould vifit that ifland on
his pafiage to Huaheine ; and they propofed to
accompany him, and that their fleet Ihould fail
at the lame time, to reinforce Towha. Being
ready to take his departure, he fubmitted to them
the appointment of the day; and the Wednefday
following was determined upon ; when he was to
receive on board Otoo, his father, mother, and
the whole family. Thefe points being agreed on,
the Captain propofed immediately fetting out for
Oparre, where all the fleet was to afiemble this
day, and to be reviewed.
As Captain Cook was getting into his boat,
news arrived that a treaty had been concluded be-
tween Towha and Maheine, and Towha’s fleet
had returned to Attahooroo. From this unex-
pected event, the war canoes, inllead of rendez-
voufing at Oparre, were ordered to their refpe&ive
diltndts. Captain Cook, however, followed Otoo
to Oparre, accompanied by Mr. King and Omai.
Soon after their arrival, a meflenger arrived from
Eimeo, and related the conditions of the peace,
or rather truce, it being only for a limited time.
The terms being difadvantageous to Otaheite,
Otoo was feverelv cenfured, whofe delay, in fend-
ing reinforcements, had obliged Towha to fubmit
to a difgraceful accommodation. It was even
currently reported, that Towha, refenting the
treatment he had received, had declared, thar,
imme-
pacific ocean.
5
immediately after Captain Cook s departure, he
would join his forces to thofe ofTiaraboo, and
attack Otoo. This called upon the Captain to
declare, that he was determined to efpoufe the
intereft of his friend ; and that whoever prefumed
to attack him, fhould experience the weight of
his difpleafure, when he returned to their ifland.
This declaration, probably, had the defired
effedt, and, if Towha did entertain any fuch hof-
tile intention at firft, we heard no more of the
report. Whappai, the father of Otoo, highly
difapproved of the peace, and cenfured Towha
for concluding it. This old man wifely confidered
that Captain Cook’s going with them to Eimeo*
might have been of fingular fervice to their caufe,
though he fhould not interfere in the quarrel.
He therefore concluded, that Otoo .had adted
prudently in waiting for the Captain ; though it
prevented his giving that early affiftance to Towha
which he expedfed.
While we were debating on this fubjedt at
Oparre, a meflenger arrived from Towha, defiring
the attendance of Otoo the next day, at the moral
in Attahooroo, to return thanks to the Gods for
the peace he had concluded. Captain Cook was
afked to attend; but being much out of order,
chofe rather to decline it. Defirous, however, of
knowing what ceremony might be exhibited on fo
memorable an occafion, he fent Mr. King and
Omai to obferve the particulars, and returned to
/ B 2 his
4
A VOYAGE to t h e
his Ihip, attended by Otoo’s mother, his three
fiflers, and feveral other women. At firft, the
Captain imagined that this numerous train came
into his boat, in order to get a paffage to Matavai.
But they affured him, they intended palling the
night on board, for the purpofe of curing the
d iforder he complained of; which was a rheu-
matic pain, extending from the hip to the foot.
He accepted the friendly offer, had a bed pre-
pared for them upon the cabin floor, and fub-
mitted himfelf to their dire&ions. He was firft
defired to lie down amongft them ; when all thofe
tvho could get near him, began to fqueeze him
with both hands all over the body, but more par-
ticularly on the parts complained of, till they
made his bones crack, and his flefh became almoft
a mummy. In fhort, after fuffering this fevere
difcipline about a quarter of an hour, he was
happy to get away from them. The operation,
however, gave him immediate relief, and encou-
raged him to a repetition of the fame difcipline,
before he retired to bed ; and it was fo effectual,
that he found himfelf pretty eafy the whole night
after. His female phyficians very obligingly re-
peated their prefcription the next morning, before
they left him, and again in the evening, when they
returned ; afcer which, the cure being perfected,
they took their leave of the Captain the following
morning. This is called romee , among the na-
tives, an operation far exceeding that of the flelh-
* brulh,
PACIFIC OCEAN.
5
brufh, or any external fridtion. It is univerfally
practifed amongft thefe iflanders, and generally
by women. If, at any time, a perfon appears
languid and tired, and fits down by any of them,
they pra&ife the romee upon his legs ; and it al-
ways has an excellent effeft.
On Thurfday the 25th of September, Otoo,
Mr. King, and Omai, returned from Attahooroo ;
and Mr. King gave a narrative of what he had
feen to the following efFe£t : <c At fun-fet, we
embarked in a canoe, and left Oparre. About
nine o’clock we landed at that extremity of Tet-
taha, which joins to Attahooroo. The meeting
of Otoo and Towha, I expelled, would be inter-
efting. Otoo and his attendants feated themfelves
on the beach, near the canoe in which Towha fat.
He was then afleep ; but being awakened, and
Otoo’s name being mentioned to him, a plantain-
tree and dog were immediately laid at Otoo's
feet; and feveral of Towha’s people came and
converfed with him. After I had been, for fome
time, feated clofe to Otoo, Towha neither ftirring
from his canoe, nor faying any thing to us, I
repaired to him, He afked me if Toote was dif-
pleafed with him ; I anfwered. No; and that he
was his taio ; and that I was ordered to go to At-
tahooroo, to let him know it, Omai then en-
tered into a long converfation with this chief;
but I could not gather any information from him.
On my returning to Otoo, he defired that I fhould
b a £0
6
A VOyAGE TO THE
go to cat, and then to deep ; in confequenee of
which Omai and I left him. On queftioning
Omai on that head, he faid, Towha was lame,
and therefore could not ftir; but that Otoo and
he would foon converfe together in private. This
was probably true ; for thofe we left with Otoo
came to us in a little time ; and about ten mi-
nutes after, Otoo himfelf arrived, when we all
went to deep in his canoe.
The ava was the next morning in great plenty.
One man drank to fuch excefs that he loft his
fenfes, and appeared to be convulfed. He was
held by two men, who bulled themfelves in pluck-
ing off his hair by the roots. I left this fpeclacle
to fee a more affecting one. It was the meeting
ofTowha and his wife, and a young girl, who
was faid to be his daughter. After the ceremony
of cutting their heads, and difeharging plenty of
blood and tears, they walhed, embraced the chief,
and feemed perfedlly unconcerned. But the young
girl’s bufferings were not yet concluded. Terri-
diri (Oberea’s fon) arrived; and fhe, with great
compofure, repeated thofe ceremonies to him
which die had juft performed orj meeting her fa-
ther. Towha having brought a war-canoe from
Eimeo, I inquired if he had killed the people
belonging to her ; and was informed, that there
was not a perfon in her when fhe was captured.
About ten or eleven o’clock we left Te{taha,
and landed clofe to the mqrqi of Attahooroo early
in
PACIFIC OCEAN.
7
in the afternoon. Three canoes lay hauled upon
the beach, oppofite the morale having three hogs
in each. We expe&ed the folemnity would have
been performed the lame afternoon ; but nothing
was done, as neither Towha nor Potatou had
joined us. A chief came from Eimeo with a fmall
pig, and a plantain-tree, which he placed at Otoo’s
feet. They converfed fome time together, and
the Eimeo chief often repeating the words,
Warryy JVarry, “ falfe,” Otoo was probably re-
lating to him what he had heard, and the other
contradi&ed it. t
The next day, Towha and Potatoua, with feven
or eight large canoes, arrived, and landed near
the moral. Several plantain-trees were brought to
Otoo, on behalf of different chiefs. Towha remain-
ed in his canoe. The ceremony was commenced
by the principal prieft, who brought out the maroy
wrapped up, and a bundle of a conic fhape. Thefe
were placed at the head of what I fuppofed to be
a grave. Then three priefts fat down, at the
other end of the grave ; having with them a plan-
tain-tree, a branch of fome other kind of tree,
and the fheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut-
tree.
The priefls feparately repeated fentences ; and,
at intervals, two, and fometimes all three, chanted
a melancholy ditty, very little attended to by the
natives. I his kind of recitative continued near
an hour, X hen, after a fhort prayer, the chief
B 4 prieft
\ * „ t
A VOYAGE TO THE
s
piiell: uncovered the maro, and Otoo rofe up, and
wrapped it about him, holding in his hand a
bonnet, compofed of the red feathers of the tropic
bird, mixed with other blackifh feathers. He
flood oppofite the three priefls, who continued
their prayers for about ten minutes when a rnan
rifing fuddenly from the crowd, faid fomething
ending with keiva ! and the crowd echoed back
to him three times Earee ! The company then rer
paired to the oppofite fide of a large pile of flones,
where is the king’s moral ; which is not much
unlike a large grave. Here the fame ceremony
was again performed, and ended with three cheers.
The maro was now wrapped up, and ornamented
by the addition of a fmall piece of red feathers.
The people now proceeded to a large hut, near
the moral , where they feated themfelves jn folemn
order. An oration was then made by a man of
Tiaraboo, which ended in about ten minutes.
He was followed by a man of Attahoorooj Po-
tatou fpoke next, and with much more fluency
and grace than any of them. Tooteo, Otoo’s
orator, exhibited after him, and then a man from
Eimeo. Some other fpeeches were made, but
not attended to. Omai faid, that the fubflance
of their fpeeches recommended friend (hip, and
not fighting j but as many of the fpeakers ex-
preffed themfelves with great warmth, there were,
perhaps, fome recriminations and proteflations of
their future good intentions. In the midft of
i i y their
PACIFIC OCEAN.
9
their harangues, a man of Attahooroo rofe up,
having a fling fattened to his waift, and a large
ftone upon his flioulder. After parading for
about fifteen minutes in the open fpace, and.
chanting a few fhort fentences, he threw the ftone
down. This ftone, together with a plantain-tree
that lay at Otoo’s feet, wrere, at the conclufion of
the fpeeches, carried to the moral ; one of the
priefts, and Otoo with him, faying fomething
upon the occafion.
Returning to Oparre, the fea-breeze having fet
in, we were obliged to land, and had a pleafant
walk from Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, with two
large bundles of dried leaves fufpended upon it,
pointed out the boundary of the two diftridts.
We were accompanied by the man who had per-
formed the ceremony of the ftone and fling. With
him Otoo’s father held a long converfation, and
appeared extremely angry. He was enraged, as
I underftood, at the part which Towha had taken
in the Eimeo bufinefs.”
From what can be judged of this folemnity, as
related by Mr. King, it had not been only a
thankfgiving, as Omai told us, but rather a con-
firmation of the treaty. The grave, mentioned
by Mr. King, appears to be the very fpot where
the celebration of the rites began, when the
human facrifice was offered, at which Captain
Cook was prefent, and before which the victim
was laid. It is here alfo, that they ftrft: inveft
their
)
16 A VOYAGE TO THE
their kings with the maro. Omai, who had Teen
the ceremony when Otoo was made king, de-
fcribed the whole folemnity, when we were here ;
which is nearly the fame as that now deferibed by
Mr. King; though, perhaps, upon a very diffe-
rent occafion. The plantain-tree is always the
firft thing introduced in all their religious cere-
monies, as well as in all their public and private
debates ; and, probably, on many other occafions.
While Towha was at Eimeo, he fent one or more
mefiengers to Otoo every day. Every meffenger,
at all times, carried a young plantain-tree in his
hand, which he laid at the feet of Otoo, before
he mentioned his errand ; then feated himfelr be-
fore him, and related the particulars of his mef-
fage. When two men are in fuch high difpute
that blows are expected to enfue, if one fliould
lay a plantain- tree before the other, they both be-
come cool, and proceed in the argument without
further animofity. It is, indeed, the olive branch
of thefe people upon all occafions.
As our friends knew that we were upon the
point of failing, they all paid us- a vilit on the
26th,. and brought more hogs with them than we
wanted ; for, having no fait left to preferve any,
we had fully fufficient for our prefent ufe.
Captain Cook accompanied Otoo, the next day,
to Oparre ; and before he left it, took a furvey
of the cattle and poultry, which he had configned
to his friend’s care. Every thing was in a pro-
mi fing
PACIFIC OCEAN.
II
mifing way;' and Teemed properly attended to.
Two of the geefe, as well as two of the ducks,
were fitting; but the pea-hen and turkey-hen
had neither of them begun to lay. He took four
goats from Otoo, two of which he intended to
leave at Ulietea; and to relerve the other two
for the ufe of any other idands he might touch at
in his palfage to the north.
The following circumftance concerning Otoo
will fhew, that the people of this ifland are capa-
ble of much addrefs and art, to accomplilh their
purpofes. Amongft other things, which Captain
Cook had, had different times, given to this chief,
was a fpying-glafs. Having been two or three
days polTeffed of it, he, perhaps, grew tired of its
novelty, or difcovered that it could not be of any
ufe to him, he therefore carried it, privately, to
Captain Clerke; telling him, that, as he had
fhewn great friendfhip for him, he had got a pre-
fent for him, which, he fuppofed, would be agree-
able. « But, fays Otoo, Toote mull not be in-
formed of this, becaufe he wanted it, and I re-
fufed to let him have it;” accordingly, he put
the glafs into Captain Clerke’s hands, affuring
him, at the fame time, that he came honeftly by
it. Captain Clerke, at firft, wifhed to be excufed
from accepting it ; but Otoo infilled upon it, that
he Ihould; and left it with him. A few days
after, he reminded Captain Clerke of the glafs ;
who, though he did not wilh to have it, w^s yet
defirous
12
A VOYAGE TO THE
ddirous of obliging Otoo ; and thinking, that a
few axes would be more acceptable, produced
four to give him in exchange. Otoo immediately
exclaimed, cc Toote offered me five for it.” “ Well
(fays Captain Gierke) if that be the cafe, you
fhall not be a lofer by your friendfhip for me ;
and you fhall have fix axes.” He readily ac-
cepted them; but again defired, that Captain
Cook might not be made acquainted with the
tranfadtion. For the many valuable things which
Omai had given away, he received one good thing
in return. This was a very fine double failing
canoe, completely equipped. Some time before,
the Captain had made up a fuit of Englilh colours
for hifn; but he confidered them as too valuable
to be ufed at this. time; and, therefore, patched
up a parcel of flags and pendants, to phe number
of ten or a dozen, which he fpread on different
parts of his canoe. This, as might be expedted,
drew together a, great number of people to look
at her.. Omars ftreamers were a mixture of
Englilh, French, Spanilh, and Dutch, being aM
Xhe European colours he had feen. Fie had com-
pletely flocked himfelf with cloth and cocoa-nut
oil, which are better, and more plentiful at Ota-
heite, than at any of the Society Iflands ; info-
much, that they are confidered as articles of trade,
Omai would not have behaved fo inconfiftentlv,
as he did in many inftances, had it not been for
his filter and brother-in-law, who, together with
... ' . a few
PACIFIC bCIAN.
*3
a few feledt acquaintances, engrafted him to them-
felves, in order to ftrip him of every article he
pofiefied. And they would certainly have fuc-
ceeded, if Captain Cook had not taken the moft
ufeful articles of his property into his poflefilon.
This, however, would not have faved Omai from
ruin, if he had permitted thefe relations of his to
have accompanied him to his intended place of
fettlement at Huaheine. This; indeed, was their
intention ; but the Captain difappointed their far-*
ther views of plunder, by forbidding them to ap-
pear in that ifland, while he continued in that
part of the world ; and they knew him too well
not to comply.
Otoo came on board the 28th of September,
and informed Captain Cook that he had got a
canoe, which he defired he would take with him,
as a prefent from him to the Earee rahie no Pre-
tans. The Captain was highly pleafed with Otoo,
for this mark of his gratitude. At firft, the
Captain fuppofed it to have been a model of one
of their velfels of war ; but it proved to be a fmall
ivahah , about fixteen feet long. It was double,
and probably had been built for the purpofe ;
and was decorated with carved work, like their
canoes in general. It being too large for him to
take on board, he could only thank him for his
good intention ; but he would have been much
better pleafed, if his prefent could have been ac-
cepted.
4 * • By
14
A VOYAGE TO THE
By calms, and gentle breezes from the weft,
we were detained here fome days longer than we
expected. All this time, the fhips were crowded
with our friends, and furrounded by canoes ; for
none of them would quit the place, till we de-
parted. At length, on the 29th, at three o’clock
in the afternoon, the wind came at eaft, and we
weighed anchor. The fhips being under fail, to
oblige Otoo, and to gratify the curiofity of his
people, we fired feven guns; after which, all our
friends, except him, and'two or three more, took
leave of us with fuch lively marks of forrow and
affedtion, as fufficiently teftified how much they
regretted our departure. Otoo expreffing a defire
of feeing the fhips fail, we made a ftretch out to
fea, and then in again immediately ; when he alfo
took his laft farewel, and went afhore in his canoe.
It was ftridtly enjoined to Captain Cook by
Otoo, to requeft, in his name, the Earee rahie no
Pretane , to fend him, by the next fhip, fome red
feathers, and the birds which produce them ; alfo
axes ; half a dozen mufkets ; powder and fliot j
and, by no means, to forget horfes.
When thefe people make us a prefent, it is
ctiftomary for them to let us know what they ex-
pert in return; and we find it convenient to gra-
tify them; by which means our prelents come
dearer to us than what we get by barter. But,
being fometimes prefied by occafional lcarcity,
ws could have recourfe to our friends for a iupply
as
a
PACIFIC OCEAN. 1$
as a prefent, when we could not get it by any
other method. Upon the whole, therefore, this
way of traffic was full as advantageous to us as to
the natives. Captain Cook, in general, paid for
each feparate article as he received it, except in
his intercourse with Otoo. His prefents were fo
numerous, that no account was kept between him
and the Captain. Whatever he afked for, if
it could be Spared, the Captain never denied
him, and he always found him moderate in his
demands.
Captain Cook would not have quitted Otaheite
fo foon as he did, if he could have prevailed upon
Oimai to fix himfelf there. There was not even a
probability of our being better Supplied with pro-
vifions elfewhere, than we continued to be here,
even at the time of our leaving it. Befides, Such
a friendffiip and confidence fubfified between us
and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expedled
at any other place ; and, it was rather extraordi-
nary, had never been once interrupted or fuf-
pendcd by any accident, or mifunderftanding;
nor had there been a theft committed, worthy of
notice. It is probable, however, that their re-
gularity of condudt refulted from their fear of in-
terrupting a traffic, which might procure them a
greater Share of our commodities, than they could
obtain by plunder or pilfering. This point, in-
deed, was, in l'ome degree, fettled at the firft in-
terview with their chiefs, after our arrival. For
Cap-
*6 A VOYAGE TO THE
Captain Cook declared then to the natives, in the
mod decifive terms, that he would not differ them
to rob us, as they had formerly done. Omai was
fingularly ufeful in this bufinefs, being indru&ed
by the Captain to point out to them the happy
confequences of their honed conduct, and the
fatal mifchiefs that mud attend a deviation from
it. But the chiefs have it not always in their
power to prevent thefts ; they are often robbed
themfelves ; and complain of it as the word of
evils. The mod valuable things that Otoo re-
ceived from Captain Cook, were left in the Cap-
tain’s poffeffion till the day before we failed ; Otoo
declaring, at the fame time, that they were no
where fo fafe. From the acquifition of new
riches, the inducements to pilfering mud cer-
tainly have increafed ; and the chiefs are fenfible
of this, from their being fo extremely defirous of
having cheds. The few that the Spaniards left
amongd them are highly prized ; and they were
continually aiking us for fome. Captain Cook
had one made for Otoo, the dimenfions of which
were eight feet in length, five in breadth, and
about three in depth. Locks and bolts are not
confidered as a fufficient fecurity ; but it mud be
large enough for two people to fleep upon, and
confequently guard it in the night.
It may appear extraordinary, that we could
never get any didinft account of the time when
the Spaniards arrived, the time they dayed, and
when
PACIFIC OCEAN.
17
when they departed. The more we made inquiry
into this matter, the more we were convinced of
the incapability of moft of thefe people to remem-
ber, calculate, or note the time, when paft events
happened; efpecially if for a longer period than
eighteen or twenty months. It however appeared,
by the infcription upon the crofs, and by the in-
formation of the moll intelligent of the natives,
that two fhips came to Oheitepeha in 1774, not
long after Captain Cook left Matavai, which was
in May the fame year. The live flock they left
here, confifled of one bull, fome goats, hogs,
and dogs, and the male of another animal ; which
we were afterwards informed was a ram, and was,
at this time, at Bolabola.
The hogs are large ; have already much im-
proved the breed originally found by us upon the
ifland and, on our late arrival, were very nume-
rous. Goats are alfo in plenty, there being hardly
a chief without fome. The dogs that the Spa-
niards put afhore are of two or three forts : if
they had all been hanged, inflead of being left
upon the ifland, it would have been better for
the natives. Captain Cook’s young ram fell a
victim to one of thefe animals. Four Spaniards
remained on fhore when thefe fhips left the ifland;
two of whom were priefts, one a fervant, and the
other v/as much careffed among the natives, who
diflinguifh him by the name of Mateema. He
fe-.ms to have io far fludied their language, as to
Vol. II. n° 7. C have
1$ A VOYAGE TO THE
have been able to fpeak it tolerably ; and to have
been indefatigable in imprefling the minds of the
iflanders with exalted ideas of the grcatnefs of the
Spanifh nation, and inducing them to think meanly
of that of the Englifh. He even allured them,
that we no longer exifted as an independent na-
tion j that Pretane was but a fmall ifland, which
they had entirely deftroyed j and as to Captain
Cook, that they had met with him at fea, and,
with the greateft eafe that could be imagined, had
fent his fhip, and every creature in her, to the
bottom ; fo that his vifiting Otaheite was, at this
time, very unexpected. Many other improbable
falfehoods were propagated by this Spaniard, and
believed by the inhabitants j but Captain Cook’s
returning to Otaheite was confidered as a complete
confutation of all that Mateema had advanced.
With what defign the priefts remained, cannot
eafily be conceived. If it was their intention to
convert the natives to the Catholic faith, they
certainly have not fucceeded. It does not appear,
indeed, that they ever attempted it 5 for the na-
tives fay, they never converfed with them, either
on this, or any other fubjed. The priefts refided
the whole time in the houfe at Oheitepeha,* but
Mateema roved about continually, vifiting many
parts of the ifland. After he and his companions
had ftaid ten months, two fliips arriving at Ohei-
tepeha, took them aboard, and failed again in five
days. Whatever defign the Spaniards might have
had
1 9
PACIFIC OCEAN.
had upon this ifland, this hafty departure fhews
they have now laid it afide. They endeavoured
to make the natives believe, that they ftill in-
tended to return ; and that they would bring with
them houfes-, all kinds of animals, and men and
women who were to fettle on the ifland. Otoo,
when he mentioned this to Captain Cook, added,
that if the Spaniards fhould return, they fliould
not come to Matavai Fort, which, he faid, was
ours. The idea pleafed him ; but he did not
conlider that the completion of it would deprive
him of his kingdom, and his people of their li-
berties. Though this fhews how eafily a fettle-
ment might be made at Otaheite, it is hoped that
fuch a circumftance will never happen. Our
occafional vifits may have been of fervice to its
inhabitants, but (confidering how moft European
eftablifhments are conduced among Indian na-
tions) a' permanent eftablifhment amongft them
would, probably, give them juft caufe to lament
that our fhips had ever difcovered it. Indeed, a
meafure of this kind can hardly ever be ferioufly
thought of; as it can neither anfwer the purpofes
of public ambition, nor of private avarice. v
It has been already obferved that Captain Cook
received a vifit from one of the two natives of
this ifland, who had been taken to Lima by the
Spaniards. It is fomewhat remarkable that he
never faw him afterwards, especially as the Cap-
tain received him with uncommon civility. The
C 2 Captain,
20
A VOYAGE TO THE
/
Captain, however, fuppofed that Omai had kept
him at a diftance from him, from motives of jea-
loufy , he being a traveller that, in fo me degree,
might vie with himfelf. Our touching at Tene-
rifFe was a lucky circumftance for Omai ; who
prided himfelf in having vifited a place beloncrincr
° r o o
to Spain, as well as this man. Captain Clerke,
who had feen the other man, fpoke of him as a
low fellow, a little out of his fenfes ; and his own
countrymen entertained the fame opinion of him.
In fhort, thefe two adventurers feemed to be
held in little or no efteem. They had not been
fo fortunate, indeed, as to return home with fuch
valuable property as had been bellowed upon
Omai; whofe advantages from going to England
were fo great,, that if he fliould fink into the fame
ftate of inlignificance, he has only himfelf to
blame for it.
CHAP.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
ai
CHAP. V.
Anchor at Taloo inEimeo — Phe Harbours of Taloo
and Parowroah defer ibed — Vifit from Maheine ,
the Chief of Eimeo , who approaches with Cau-
tion— Defcription of the P erf on of Maheine — Pre-
parations made for failing — Detained by having a
Goat fiolen—That recovered, and another ftolen —
Menaces ufed to occafion it to be returned — Expe-
dition crofs the If and, with a Party, in fearch
of the Goat — Houfes and Canoes burnt, and
other Hoflilities threatened — ci The Goat returned —
The If and deferibed, &c.
ON the 30th of September, at day-break,
after leaving Otaheite, we flood for the
north end of the ifland of Eimeo. Omai, in his
canoe, arrived there before us, and endeavoured,
by taking fome neceflary meafures, to fhew us
the fituation, We were not, however, without
pilots, having feveral natives of Otaheite on
board, and, among them, not a few women.
Unwilling to rely entirely upon thefe guides,
Captain Cook difpatched two boats to examine
the harbour ; when, on a fignal being made for
fafe anchorage, we flood in with both the fhips,
and anchored in ten fathoms water.
1 aloo is the name of this harbour : it is on
the north fide of the ifland, and in the diflridt
c 3 U of
22
A VOYAGE TO THE.
ol oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It runs above two
miles between the hills, fouth, or fouth by eaft.
It is not inferior to any harbour that we have met
with in this ocean, both for fecurity and good-
nefs of bottom. It has alfo this fingular advan-
tage, that a fhip can fail in and out with the
reigning trade wind. Several rivers fall into it j
one or which is fo confiderable, as to admit boats
a quarter of a mile up, where the water is per-
feclly frefli. The banks, on the fides of this
flream, are covered with what the natives call
the pooroo tree, on which they fet no value, as it
only ferves for firing. So that wood and water
may be procured here with great facility. *
The harbour of Parowroah, on the fame fide
of the ifland, is about two miles to the eaftward,
and is much larger within than that of Talooj
but the opening in the reef lies to leeward of the
harbour, and is confiderably narrower. Thefe
linking defects muft give the harbour of Taloo
a decided preference. There are one or two
more harbours on the fouth fide of the ifland,
but they are not fo confiderable as thofc we have
already mentioned.
As foon as we had anchored, great numbers of
the inhabitants came aboard our fliips, from mere
motives of ctiriofity, for they brought nothing
with them for the purpofes of barter : but feveral
canoes arrived, the next morning, from more
dillant parts, bringing with them an abundant
fupply
PACIFIC OCEAN. 2$
fupply of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs,
which were exchanged for beads, nails, and
hatchets ; red feathers not being fo much de-
manded here as at Otaheite.
On Thurfday the 2d of October, in the morn-
ing, Captain Cook received a vifit from Maheine,
the chief of the ifland. He approached the fhip
with as great caution and deliberation, as if he
apprehended mifchief from us, as friends of the
Otaheiteans ; thefe people having no idea that
\ve can be in friendfhip with any one, without
adopting his caufe againft his enemies. This
chief was accompanied by his wife, who, we were
told, is filter to Oamo, of Otaheite, whofe death
we heard of while we remained at this illand.
Captain Cook made them prefents of fuch arti-
cles as feemed molt to ftrike their fancy and,
after Haying about half an hour, they went
on Ihore. They returned, foon after, with a
large hog, meaning it as a return for the Cap-
tain’s favour ; but he made them an additional
prefent to the full value of it after which they
went on board the Difcovery, to vifit Captain
Clerke.
Maheine, fupported with a few adherents, has
made himfelf, in forne degree, independent of
Otaheite. He is between forty and fifty years of
age, and is bald-headed ; which, at that age, is
rather uncommon in thefe iflands. He feemed
afhamed of fhewing his head, and wore a kind
C 4 . of
24
A VOYAGE TO THE
of turban to conceal it. Whether they confider-
ed this deficiency of hair as difgraceful, or whe-
ther they fuppofed that we confidered it in that
light, it is not eafy to determine. The latter,
however, appears the moft probable, from the
circumftance of their having feen us Ihave the
head of one of the natives, whom we detected
ftealing. They naturally concluded, therefore,
that this was the kind of punifhment inflicted by
us upon all thieves ; and lome of our gentlemen,
whofe heads were but thinly covered with hair,
were violently fufpedted, by them, of being tetos.
1 owards the evening, Captain Cook and Omai
mounted on horfeback, and rode along the fhore.
Oinai having forbad the natives to follow us, our
train was not very numerous ; the fear of giving
offence, having got the better of their curiofity.
The fleet of Towha had been ftationed in this
harbour, and though the war was but of Ihort
duration, the marks of its devaluation were every
where confpicuous. The trees had loft all their
fruit, and the houfes in the neighbourhood had
been burnt, or otherwife deftroyed.
Having made every preparation for failing, we
hauled the fhip off into the ftream, in the morn-
ing of the 6th, intending to put to lea the next
day, but a difagreeable accident prevented it.
We had, in the day time, lent our goats afhore
to graze; and, notwithstanding two men had been
appointed to look after them, one of them had
been
PACIFIC OCEAN.
2S
been ftolen this evening. This was a confiderable
lofs, as it interfered with the Captain’s views of
(locking other iflandswith thefe animals: he there-
fore was determined, if poffible, to recover it.
We received intelligence, the next morning,
that it had been conveyed to Maheine, who was,
at that time, at Parowroah harbour. Two el-
derly men offered their fervices to condu£t any
of our people to him, in order to bring back the
goat. Accordingly the Captain difpatched fome
of his people in a boat, charged with a meffaoe
to that chief, and infilled on both the goat and
the thief being immediately given up.
Maheine had, only the day before, requefled
the Commodore to give him two goats ; but, as
he could not fpare them, without depriving other
iflands, which had none of thefe animals, and
was informed that there were two already upon
this, he refufed to gratify him. Willing, how-
ever, to a ITi ft his views, in this refpedt, he defired
an Otaheite chief, then prefent, to beg Otoo, in
his name, to convey two of thefe animals to
Maheine j and, to induce him to comply with
this requeft, fent to Otoo, by the fame chief, a
quantity of red feathers, equal in value to the
two goats that were required. The Commodore
expe&ed that Maheine, and all the other chiefs
of the lfland, would have been perfectly fatisfied
with this arrangement i but he was miftaken, as
the event clearly proves.
Little
26 A VOYAGE TO THE
* *. .
Little fufpefting that any one would prefume
to fteal a fecond, while the neceffary meafures
were taking to recover the firft, the goats were
again put afhore this morning ; and a boat, as
ufual, was fent for them in the evening. While
our people were getting them into the boat, one
was conveyed away undifeovered. As it was im-
mediately miffed, we expe&ed to recover it with-
out much trouble, as it could not have been car-
ried to any confiderable diftance. Several of the
natives fet out, different ways, to feek after it ;
for they all endeavoured to perfuade us, that it
muft have ftrayed into the woods ; not one of
them admitting that it was ftolen. We were,
however, convinced to the contrary, when we
perceived that not any of the purfuers returned :
their intention was only to amufe us, till their
prize was fafely depofited ; and night coming on,
prevented all future fearch. At this inftant, the
boat returned with the other goat, and one of
the perfons who had ftolen it.
Moft of the inhabitants, the next morning,
were moved off, taking with them a corpfe, which
lay oppofite the fhip, on a toopapaoo j and Ma-
heine, we were informed, had retired to the re-
moteft part of the ifland. It now plainly ap-
peared, that a regular plan had been projected to
fteal what the Commodore had refufed to give ;
' and that, having reftored one, they were deter-
mined not to part with the other, which was a
, female.
pacific OCEAH, %vt
female, and with kid : and the Commodore was
equally determined to have it back again ; he
therefore applied to the two elderly men, who
had been inftru, mental in recovering the firft, who
informed him that this had been taken to a place
on the fouth fide of the ifland, called Watea, by
Hamoa, who was the chief of that place ; but that
it would be delivered up if he would fend for it.
They cxprefled a willingnefs to conduit fome of
his people to the fpot ; but, finding that a boat
might go and return in one day, he fent one with
two of his officers, Mr. Roberts, and Mr. Shut-
tleworth ; one to remain with the boat, if fhe
could not get to the place, while the other went
with the guides, accompanied by fome of our
people. The boat returned late in the evening,
when we were informed by the officers, that, after
proceeding in the boat as far as rocks and fiioals
would permit, Mr. Shuttleworth landed; and,
attended with two marines, and one of the guides,
proceeded to the houfe of Hamoa, at Watea;
where they were, for fome time, amufed by the
people, who pretended they had fent for the goat,
and that it would foon be produced. It, however,
never arrived ; and, night approaching, Mr. Shut-
tleworth was obliged to return to his boat with-
out it.
The Commodore lamented that he had pro-
ceeded fo far in this bufinefs, as he could not re-
treat with credit, and without giving encourage-
ment
2?
A VOYAGE TO THE
inent to other iflanders to rob us with impunity.
Confulting with Omai, and the two old men,
what methods to take, they adviled him, without
hefitation, to go into the country with a party of
men, and fhoot every perfon he fhould meet with.
The Commodore did not approve of this bloody
counfel ; but, early the next morning, fet out
with thirty-five of his people, accompanied by
Omai, one of the old men, and three or four at-
tendants. He alfo ordered Lieutenant William-
fon round the weftern part of the ifiand, with
three armed boats, to meet us.
This party had no fooner landed, than the few
remaining natives fled before us. The firft per-
fon we met with upon our march, was in a kind
of perilous fituation j for Omai, the inftant he
beheld him, afked Captain Cook if he fhould
fhoot him; fo fully was he perfuaded, that the
advice he had given, was immediately to be car-
ried into execution. The Commodore then gave
orders, both to him and our guide, to let it be
made known, that it was not our intention to in-
jure, much lefs to deftroy, a Angle native. Thefe
joyful tidings foon circulated, and prevented the
flight of the inhabitants.
Afcending the ridge of hills, on our road to
Watea, we were informed that the goat had been
carried the fame way, and could hardly have
pafied the hills : we therefore marched up in
great filence, expecting to furprize the parry who
were
PACIFIC OCEAN.
29
were bearing off the prize ; but, when we arrived
at the uppermoft plantation, we were told, that
the animal we were in fearch of, had, indeed,
been kept there the firffc night, but had been car-
ried to Watea the next morning. We made no
further enquiry, till we came within fight of Wa-
tea, where we were directed to Hamoa’s houfe,
by fome people who alfo informed us, that the
goat was there. We therefore fully expeded to
obtain it on our arrival ; bur, when we reached
the houfe, the people we faw there, denied that
they had ever feen it, or knew any thing concern-
ing it. Hamoa himfelf appeared, and exprefied
himfelf to the fame effed.
On our firft coming to W atea, feveral men
were feen, running to and fro in the woods, with
clubs and darts in their hands ; and Omai, who
ran towards them, had Hones thrown at him.
Hence it appeared, that they intended to oppofe
any attempt that we might be induced to make,
but on feeing theftrength of our party, had given
up the defign. We were confirmed in this opi-
nion, by obferving, that all their houfes were
empty.
After collecting a few of the natives together,
Omai was direded to expoftulate with them on
the abfurdity of their condud, and tell them
that we had received fufficient evidence that the
goat was in their poflefiion ; 'and that, if it was
not immediately delivered up, we fhould burn
all
A VOYAGE TO THE
A I-S
3°
all their houfes and canoes ; but, notwithftand-
ing this expoftulation, they perfifted in their de-
nial of having any knowledge of it. In confe-
quence of which, the Commodore fet fire to fix
or eight of their houfes, and two or three war
canoes, which were prefently confumed. After
this we marched off to join the boats, which were,
at that time, about feven or eight miles from us ;
and, in our road, burnt fix other war canoes,
without any oppofition. On the contrary, many
of the natives aflifted us ; more, perhaps, from
fear, than any other motive. At length Omai,
who was at fome diftance before us, came back
with information, that a multitude of men were
affembling to attack us. We prepared ourfelves
to receive them, but, inftead of enemies, they
were petitioners, with plantain-trees in their hands,
which they laid down before us, entreating the
Commodore to fpare a canoe that lay upon the
fpot, which he readily complied with.
About four o’clock in the afternoon, we ar-
rived at Wharrarade, where our boats were wait-
ing for us. The diftridt of Wharrarade belongs
toTiarataboonoue; but this chief, together with
the other principal people of the place, had fled
to the hills ; though we made no attack upon their
property, they being in amity with Otoo. Here
we remained about an hour, in order to reft our-
felves, and afterwards fet out for the fhips, where
we arrived at eight o’clock in the evening; but
no
PACIFIC OCEAN. , 3 I
no tidings of the goat had, at that time, been
received ; and, of conrfe, the operations of the
day had been ineffectual.
Early on Friday morning, the ioth of Octo-
ber, the Captain difpatched one of Omai’s men
to Maheine, charged with this peremptory mef-
fage, that if he perfifted in his refufal to deliver
tip the goat, a fingle canoe fhould not be left
upon the ifland ; and that hoftilities fhould never
ceafe, while the ftolen animal continued in his
poffeffion. That the meffenger might perceive
that the Commodore was in earneft, he ordered
the carpenter, in his prefence, to break up three
or four canoes that lay at the head of the har-
bour. The planks were, by his direction, taken
on board, to ferve as materials for building a
houfe for Omai, at the place where he intended
to refide. The Commodore, properly attended,
went afterwards to the next harbour, where he
deftroyed feven or eight more canoes, and re-
turned on board about feven in the evening. On
t O
his arrival, he was informed, that the goat had
been returned about half an hour before j and it
appeared, from good intelligence, that it came
from the very place, where the inhabitants, the
day before, declared they knew nothing about it.
But, from the meffage delivered to the chief in
the morning, he perceived that the Commodore
was not to be trifled with.
Thus
3* A VOYAGE TO THE
Thus ended this troublefome and unfortunate
bufinefs; equally to be regretted by the natives,
and by Captain Cook. He was grieved to re-
fledt, that, after refuting to aflift his friends at
Otaheite, in the invafion of this ifland, he (hould
fo foon be obliged to engage in hoftilities againft
its inhabitants; which, perhaps, were more in-
jurious to them, than Towha’s expedition.
Our intercourfe with the natives was renewed the
next morning; feveral canoes bringing bread-fruit
and cocoa-nuts to the lhips to barter ; whence
it was natural to conclude, that they were con-
feious they had merited the treatment they had
received ; and that, the caufe of Captain Cook’s
difpleafure being now removed, they apprehend-
ed no further mifehief. We weighed, with a
breeze, down the harbour, about nine ; but it
was fo faint and variable, that we did not get
out to fea till noon, when we (leered for Hua-
heine, Omai attending in his canoe.
At Eimeo, the (hips were abundantly fupplied
with fire-wood. We did not fupply ourfelves with
this article at Otaheite, as there is not a tree at
Matavai but what is ufeful to the inhabitants.
We alfo received here a large fupply of refrefh-
ments in hogs, bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts.
There is very little difference between the pro-
duce of this ifland, and that of Otaheite; but
the difference in their women is remarkable.
a 1 Thofe
PACIFIC OCEAN-. 33
Thofe of Eimeo have a dark hue, are low in fix-
ture, and have forbidding features.
The appearance of Eimeo bears not the lead
refemblance to that of Otaheite. The latter be-
ing a hilly country, has little low land, except
fome deep vallies, and the flat border that almofl:
furrounds it near the fea. Eimeo has deep rug-
ged hills, running in different directions, leaving
large vallies, and gently rifing grounds about
»
their fides. The hills, though rocky, are gene-
rally covered with trees, almofl; to the tops. At
the bottom of the harbour of Taloo, the ground
gradually rifes to the foot of the hills ; but the
fiat border, on the fides, becomes quite fteep at
a fmall distance from the fea. This renders it a
profpect fuperior to any thing we faw at Otaheite.
In the low grounds, the foil is a yellowifli ftiff
mould ; on the lower hills it is blacker and loofer,
and the ftone which compofes the hills, is of a
bluifli colour, interfperfed with fome particles of
glimmer. Near the place where our fhips were
ftationed, are two large {tones, concerning which
fome fuperftitious notions are entertained by the
natives. They confider them as brother and
filter; that they are Eatooas , or* divinities, and
that they came from Ulietea, by fome fuperna-
tural means.
Vol. II.—110 7.
D
C El A P.
34
A VOYAGE TO TtfE
CHAP. VI.
The Ships arrive at Huaheine — AJfemlly of tie
Chiefs — Omai’s Harangue — His EJlahliJhment in
this IJland unanimoujly agreed to — A Houfe built
for him — Steps taken to enfure his Safety — The
Ships infefted with Cock-roaches — Detection and
R uni foment of a Thief — He ef capes from his Con-
finement— Animals left with Omai — His Euro-
pean Weapons — His Entertainments — Infcription
on his Houfe — His Behaviour at parting — Re-
marks on his general Conduct — His Character—*
Account of the two New-Zealanders who re-
mained with him.
I
ON the morning that fucceeded our depar-
ture from Eimeo, we faw Huaheine ex-
tending from fouth-weft by weft, to weft by-
north. At twelve o’clock we anchored at the
northern entrance of Owharre harbour, fituate on
the weft fide of the ifland. Omai,- in his canoe,
entered the harbour juft before us, but did not
land. Though many of his countrymen crowd-
ed to fee him, he did not take much notice of
them. Great numbers alio came oft to the ftiips,
infomuch that we were greatly incommoded by
them. Our paflengers immediately informed
them of our tranfa&ions at Eimeo, multiplying,
by ten at leaft, the number of houfes and canoes
Cooks Voyage , Octavo Editwji .
PACIFIC OCEAN; r 35
that we had deftroyed. Captain Cook was not
much difpleafed at their giving this exaggerated
amount, as he found that it made a confiderable
impreffion upon all who heard it ■, fo that he had
hopes it would induce the natives of this ifland to
treat him in a better manner than they had done
in his prior vifits.
The next morning, which was the 13th of Oc-
tober, 2II the principal people of the ifland came
to our Ihips. This was juft what , the Commodore
wiffied, as it was now high time to fettle Omai ;
and he fuppoled, that the prefence of thefe chiefs
would enable him to effect it in a fatisfadtory man-
ner. Omai now feemed inclined to eftabiifh him-
felf at Ulietea; and if he and Captain Cook
could have agreed with refpedt to the mode of
accomplifhing that defign, the latter would have
confented to adopt it. His father had been de-
prived by the inhabitants of Bolabola, when they
fubdued Ulietea, of fome land in that ifland ;
and the Captain hoped he jfhould be able to get
it reftored to the fon without difficulty. For
this purpofe, it was neceftary that Omai fhould
be upon amicable terms with thofe who had be-
come mafters of the ifland j but he would not
liften to any fuch propofal, and was vain enough
to imagine, that the Captain would make life of
force .to re.-inftate him in his forfeited lands.
This preventing his being fixed at Ulietea, the
Captain began to confider Huaheine as the more'
D 2 proper
A VOYAGE TO THE
proper place; and therefore determined to avail
himfelf of the prefence of the chief men of that
ifland, and propofe the affair to them.
The Captain now prepared to make a formal
vifit to Taireetareea, the Earee rahie, or king of
the ifland, with a view of introducing this bufi-
nefs. Omai, who was to accompany him, dreffcd
himfelf very properly on the occafion, and pro-
vided a handfome prefen t for the chief himfelf,
and another for his Eatooa. Their landing drew
mod of the vifitors from our fhips, who, with
many others, afiembled in a large houfe. The
concourfe of people became very great, the major
part of whom feemed ftouter and fairer than thole
of Otaheite, and the number of men who appear-
ed to be of confequence was alfo much greater,
in proportion to the extent of the ifland. The
Captain waited fome time for Taireetareea; but
when that chief appeared, he found that his pre-
fence might eafily have been difpenfed with, as
he did not exceed ten years of age. Omai began
with making his offering to the gods, which
confifted of cloth, red feathers, &e. Another
offering fucceeded, which was to be given to the
gods by the young chief; and, after that, fe-
veral other tufts of red feathers were prelen ted.
The different articles were laid before a prielt,
being each of them delivered with a kind of prayer,
which was fpoken by one of Omai’s friends,
though in a great meafure diftated by himfelf.
In
PACIFIC OCEAN.
37
In thefe prayers he did not forget his friends in
England, nor thofe who had conduced him fafe
back to his native country. The Earee rahie v.q
Pretane (king of Great-Britain), the Earl of Sand-
wich, Poole, Patee , (Cook and Clerke) were men-
tioned in every one of them. Thefe offerings and
prayers being ended, the prieff took each of the
articles in order, and after repeating a prayer,
fent every one to the moral. \
Thefe religious rites having been performed,
Omai feated himfelf by the Captain, who be-
llowed a prefent on the young chief, and receiv-
ed another in return. Some Arrangements were
next agreed upon, relative to the mode of carry-
ing on the intercourfe between us and the iflanders;
and the Captain pointed out the mifchievous con-
fluences that would attend their plundering us,
as they had done on former occafions. The elta-
blilhment of Omai was then propofed to the chiefs
who were affembled. He informed them, that
we had conveyed him into our country, where he
was well received by the great King and his Earees ,
(chiefs or nobles) and treated during his whole
itay with all the marks of regard and affection ;
that he had been brought back again, after hav-
ing been enriched, by our generofity, with a va-
riety of articles, which would be highly benefi-
cial to his countrymen ; and that, befides the two
horfes which were to continue with him, many
other new and ufcful animals had been left at
D 3 Otaheite,
3*
A VOYAGE TO THE
Otaheite, which would fpeedily multiply, and
furnilh a fufficient number for the ufe of all the
neighbouring iflands. He then gave them to un-
derftand, that it was Captain Cook’s earneft re-
queft, that they would give his friend a piece of
land, upon which he might build a houfe, and
raife proviflons for himfelf and fervants ; adding,
that, if he could not obtain this at Huaheine
either by donation or purchafe, the Captain was
refolved to carry him to Ulietea, and eftabliih
him there. Thefe topics were diftated to Omai
by Captain Cook, who obferved, that what he
concluded with, about going to Ulietea, feemed
to gain the approbation of all the chiefs ; and he
immediately perceived the 'reafon. Qmai had
vainly flattered himfelf, that the Captain would
ufe force in reftoring him to his father’s lands in
Ulietea, and he had talked at random, on this
fubjeft, to fome of the aflembly ; who now ex-
pe£ted that the Captain would aflift them in in-
vading Ulietea, and driving the Bolabolans out
of that ifland. It being proper, therefore, that
he fhould undeceive them, he fignified, in the
moft deciflve manner, that he would neither give
them any afliftance in fuch an enterprize, nor
would even fuffer it to be put in execution, while
he remained in their feas ; and thaq if Omai efta-
blilhed himfelf in Ulietea, he ought to be intro-
duced as a friend, and not forced upon the peo-
ple of Bolabola as their conqueror.
r This
Pacific ocean.
39
This peremptory declaration immediately gave
a new turn to the fentiments of the council j one
of whom expreffed himfelf to this effect : that
the whole ifiand of Huaheine, and whatever it
contained, were Captain Cook’s ; and that, confe-
quently, he might difpofe of what portion he
pleafed to his friend. Omai was pleafed at hear-
ing this ; thinking that he would be very liberal,
and give him what was perfectly fufficient. But
to make an offer of what it would have been im-
proper to accept, the Captain confidered as of- •
fering nothing s and therefore defired, that they
would mark out the particular fpot, and likewife
the exa£t quantity of land, which they intended
to allot for the fettlement. Upon this, fome
chiefs, who had already retired from the affembly,
were fent for ; and, after a Ihort confultation,
the Commodore’s requeft was unanimoufly grant- ,
ed, and the ground immediately fixed upon, ad-
joining to the houfe where the prefent meeting
was held. It extended along the fhore of the
harbour, about two hundred yards j its depth to
the bottom of the hill was fomewhat more j and
a proportional part of the hill was comprehended
in the grant. This affair being fettled, a tent
v/as pitched on fhore, a pofl eftablifhed, and the
obfervatories erefled. The carpenters of each
fhip were alfo now employed in building a fmali
houfe for Omai, in which he might fecure the
various European commodities that he had in his
D 4 poffef-
4o
A VOYAGE TO THE
polfeiflon ; at the fame time, fome of our people
were occupied in making a garden for his ufe,
planting vines, ihaddocks, melons, pine apples,
and the feeds of other vegetable articles ; all
which were in a fiouri firing ftate before our de-
parture from the ifland.
Omai began now to pay a ferious attention to
his own affairs, and heartily repented of his ill-
judged prodigality at Otaheite. He found at
Huaheine, a brother, a filter, and a brother-in-
law, the filler having been married. But thefe
did not plunder him, as his other relations had
lately done. It appeared, however, that though
they had too much honelty and good-nature to
do him any injury, they were of too little confe-
quence in the ifland to do him any real fervices,
having neither authority nor influence to proteCt
his property or his perfon. Thus circurriftanced,
he ran great rifque of being (tripped of every
thing he had received from us, as foon as he
fhould ceafe to be within the reach of our pow-
erful protection .
He was now on the point of being placed in
the very Angular fituation, of being the only rich
man in the community of which he was to be a
member. And as he had, by his connection with
us, made himfelf mailer of an accumulated quan-
tity of a fpecies of treafure which his countrymen
could not create by any art or indultry of their
own, it was natural to imagine, that while all
were
4i
PACIFIC OCEAN.
were defirous of fharing in this envied wealth, all
would be ready to join in attempts to drip its
foie proprietor. As the mod likely means of pre-
venting this. Captain Cook advifed him to dis-
tribute fome of his moveables among two or three
of the principal chiefs ; who, on being thus gra-
tified themfelves, might be induced to favour
him with their patronage, and fliield him from
the injuries of others. He promifed to follow
this advice ; and we heard, before we failed, that
this prudent dep had been taken. The Captain,
however, not confiding entirely in the operations
of gratitude, had recourfe to the more forcible
and effectual motive of intimidation, taking every
opportunity of notifying to the inhabitants, that
it was his intention to make another vifit to their
ifiand, after being abfent the ufual time] and
that, if he did not find his friend in the fame date
of fecurity in which he fhould leave him at pre-
fent, all thofe who fhould then appear to have
been his enemies, might expedt to become the
objects of his refentment. This menacing decla-
ration will, probably, have fome effect -3 for our
fucceffive vifits of late years have induced thefe
ifianders to believe, that our drips are to return
at certain periods ; and while they continue to
entertain fuch a notion, which the Captain thought
it a fair ftratagem to confirm, Omai has fome
profpedt of being fuffered to thrive upon his new
plantation.
4
While
42 A VOYAGE TO THE
While we remained in this harbour, we carried
the bread on fhore to clear it of vermin. The
number of cock-roaches that infefted the fhip at
this time, is almoft incredible. The damage we
fuftained from them was very confiderable ; and
every attempt to deftroy them proved fruitlefs.
If any kind of food was expofed for a few minutes,
it was covered with thefe noxious infe&s, who
foon pierced it full of holes, fo that it refembled
an honey-comb. They proved particularly de-
ftru&ive to birds, which had been fluffed for cu-
riofities, and were fo fond of ink, that they eat
out the writing on the labels, fattened to different
articles ; and the only thing that preferved books
from their ravages, was the clofenefs of the bind-
ing, which prevented thefe devourers from infi-
nuating themfelves between the leaves. Accord-
ing to Mr. Anderfon, they were of two forts4
the blatta orient alts 3 and germanica.
The intercourfe of trade and 'friendly offices,
between us and the inhabitants of Huaheine, was
undifturbed, by any accident, till the evening
of the 22d, when one of the natives found means
to get into Mr. Bayly’s obfervatory, and carry off
a fextant, unobferved. Captain Cook was no
fooner informed of this theft, than he went affiore,
and defired Omai to apply to the chiefs, to pro-
cure reftitution. He accordingly made applica-
tion to them, but they took no fteps towards re-
covering the jnflrument, being more attentive to
^ a
PACIFIC OCEAN. 43
a beeva, that was then exhibiting, till the Cap-
tain ordered the performers to defift. Being now
convinced that he was in earned:, they began to
make fome enquiry after the delinquent, who was
litting in the midft of them, with fuch marks of
unconcern, that the Captain was in great doubt
of his being guilty, particularly as he denied it.
Omai, however, alluring him that this was the
perfon, he was fent on board the Ihip and there
confined. This railed an univerfal ferment among
the affembled illanders, and the whole body fled
with precipitation. The prifoner being examined
by Omai, was with fome difficulty brought to
confefs where he had concealed the fextant, and
it was brought back unhurt the next morning,
After this, the natives recovered from their con-
fternation, and began to gather about us as ufualt
As the thief appeared to be a ffiamelefs villain.
Captain Cook puniffied him with greater feverity
than he had ever done any former culprit, Be-
fldes having his head and beard lhaved, he com-
manded that both his ears ffiould be cut off, and
then difmiffed him.
This punilhment, however, did not deter hhn
from committing other offences 5 for, early in the
morning of the 25th, a general alarm was fpread,
occafioned, as was reported, by one of our goats
being ftolen by this very man; and though, upon
examination, we found every thing fafe in that
quarter, yet it appeared, that he had deftroyed
' and
44
A VOYAGE TO THE
and carried off from Omai’s grounds, feveral
vines and cabbage-plants ; and he publicly threat-
ened to put him to death, and fet fire to his houfe,
as foon as we fhould quit this place. To pre-
vent his doing any further mifehief, the Captain
ordered him to be feized, and confined again on
board the fhip, with a view of carrying him off
the ifiand ; and this intention feemed to give ge-
neral fatisfadion to all the chiefs. He was a na-
tive of Bolabola ; but there were too many of
the people here ready to co-operate with him in
all his defigns. We had, indeed, always met
with more troublefome perfons in Huaheine than
in any other of the adjacent iflands; and it was only
Tear, and the want of proper opportunities, that
induced them to behave better now. Anarchy
and confufion feemed to prevail among them.
Their Earee rahie , as we have already obferved,
was but a child ; and we did not find, that theie
was any individual, or any let of men, who held
the reins of government for him ; fo that, when-
ever any mifunderftahding occurred between us,
we never knew, with fufficient precifion, to whom
it was neceffary to apply, in order to effed an
accommodation, or procure red refs.
Omai’s houfe being now almoit finifhed, many
of his moveables were carried afhorc on the 2&th ;
amongh other articles was a box of toys, which
greatly pleafed the gazing multitude. But, as
to his plates, dlfiies, drinking mugs, glades,
pots.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
45
pots, kettles, and’ the whole train of dometoc ap-
paratus, fcarce one of his countrymen would even
look at them. Omai himfelf began to think that
they would be of no fervice to him ; that a baked
hog was more favory eating than a boiled one ;
that a plantain leaf made as good a plate or dilli
as pewter ; and that a cocoa-nut fliell was as
convenient a goblet as one of our mugs. He
therefore difpofed of molt of thefe articles of
Englifh furniture among the crew of our fhips ;
and received from them, in return, hatchets, and
other iron implements, which had a more intrinfic
value in this part of the world. Among the nu-
merous preheats bellowed upon him in England,
fireworks had not been omitted ; fome of which
we exhibited in the evening of the 28th, before
a great multitude of people, who beheld them
with a mixture of pleafure and apprehenfion.
Thofe which remained were put in order, and
left with Omai, purfuant to their original deto-
nation.
On Thurfday the 30th, early in the morning,
the Bolabola-rnan whom we had in confinement,
found means to efcape out of the fhip, carrying
with him the (hackle of the bilboo-bolt that had
been put about his leg, which was taken from
him, as foon as he arrived on fhore, by one of
tne chiefs, and given to Omai; who quickly came
on board, to inform the Captain t.at his
mortal enemy was again let loole upon him.
We
46 A VOYAGE TO THE
We found, upon enquiry, that the fentry placea
over the prifoner, and even the whole watch in
that part of the fhip where he was confined,
having fallen afleep, he feized the favourable op-
portunity, took the key of the irons out of the
drawer into which he had feen it put, and fet him-
felf at liberty. This efcape convinced the Com-
modore, that his people had been very remifs
in their night-duty ; which rendered it neceflary
to chaftize thofe who were now in fault, and to ef-
tablifh fome new regulations that might prevent
fimilar negligence in future. He was pleafed at
hearing, afterwards, that the fellow who had
efcaped, had gone over toUlietea.
Omai was no fooner fettled in his new habi-
tation, than Captain Cook began to think of de-
parting from Huaheine, and got every thing off
from the fhore this evening, except a goat big
with kid, and a horfe and marej which weie left
in the poffeffion of our friend, who was now to
be finally feparated from us. We alfo gave him
a boar and two fows of the Englifh breed s and
he had got two or three fows of his own. The
horfe had covered the mare during our continu-
ance at Otaheitej fo that the introduction of a
breed of horfes into thefe iflands, has probably
fucceeded, by this valuable prefent.
With regard to Omai’s domeftic eftablifhment,
he had procured at Otaheite, four or five teutons,
or people of the lower clafs 3 the two young New-
Zcalanders
rACIFIC OCEAN*
47
Zealanders remained with him ; and his bro-
ther, and feveral others, joined him at Hua-
heine ; fo that his family now confided of ten or
eleven perfons if that can juftly be denominat-
ed a family, to which not one female belonged.
The houfe which our people erefled for him was
twenty-four feet by eighteen ; and about ten feet
in height. It was compofed of boards, which
were the fpoils of our military operations at Ei-
meo ; and, in the conftrudion of it, as few nails
as poftible were ufed, left there might be an in-
ducement, from the defire of iron, to pull it
down. It was agreed upon, that, immediately
after our departure, he ftiould ered a fpacious
houfe after the mode of his own country ; one
end of which was to be brought over that which
we had built, fo as entirely to enclofe it for
greater fecurity. In this work, fome of the chiefs
of the ifland promifed to contribute their affif-
tance; and if the intended building Ihould cover
the ground which was marked out for it, few of
the houfes in Eluaheine will exceed it in mag-
nitude.
Omai’s European weapons confifted of a fowl-
ing-piece, two pair of piftols, feveral fwords or
cutlaftes, a mufquet, bayonet, and a cartouch-
box. After he had got on fliore whatever ap-
pertained to him, he had the two Captains, and
moft of the officers of both our fhips, two or
three times, to dinner j on which occaftons, his
table
A VOYAGE TO THE
table was plentifully fupplied with the belt pro-
vifions that the ifland could afford. Before wc
fet fail, the Commodore caufed the following in-
fcription to be cut upon the outfide of his houfe :
Georgius Tertius, Rex, i Novembris, 1777.
Naves S ReJolution> Jac • Cook, Pr-
l Dzjcovery, Car. Clerke, Pr.
On Sunday, the 2d of November, at four
o’clock, we took the advantage of an eafter-
ly breeze, and failed out of Owharre harbour.
Moll of our friends continued on board till our
veffels were under fail ; when Captain Cook, to
gratify their curiofity, ordered five guns to be
fired. Then they all left us, except Omai, who
remained till we were out at fea. We had come
to fail by a hawfer fattened to the fliore, which,
in catting the fhip, parted, being cut by the rocks,
and its outer end was left behind : it therefore
became neceflary to difpatch a boat to bring it
on board. In this boat, our friend Omai went
afliore, after having taken a very affeftionate fare-
wel of all the officers. He futtained this part-
ing with a manly fortitude, till he came to Cap-
tain Cook, when, notwithttanding all his efforts,
he was unable to fupprefs his tears ; and he wept
all the time in going afhore, as Mr. King, who
accompanied him in the boat, afterwards inform-
ed the Captain.
Though
iJ
49
PACIFIC OCEArf.
Though we had now, to our great fatisfaiftion,
brought him fafe back to the very fpot from
which he was taken, it is probable, that we left
him in a fituation lefs defirable than that which
he was in before his connexion with us : not that,
having tafted the comforts of civilized life,
he muft become more wretched from being
obliged to relinquifh all thoughts of continuing
them, but merely becaufe the advantages he re-
ceived from us, have placed him in a more ha-
zardous fituation, with refpect to his perfonal
fafety. From being greatly carefied in England,
he had loft fight of his primary condition, and
did not confider in what manner his acquifitions,
either of knowledge or of wealth, would be efti-
mated by his countrymen, at his return 5 which
were the only things whereby he could recom-
mend himfelf to them now, more than before,
and on which he could lay the foundation either
of his future happinefs or greatnefs. Fie ap-
peared to have, in fome meafure, forgotten their
cuftoms in this refped, and even to have mis-
taken their genius ; otherwife he muft have been
convinced of the extreme difficulty there would
be in getting himfelf admitted as a man of rank,
where there is fcarce a fingle inftance of a per-
fon’s being raifed from an inferior ftation even
by the greateft merit. Rank feems to be the
foundation of all power and diftindtion here, and
is fo pertinacioufiy adhered to, that, unlefs a per-
Yol. II. n 7. E, pon
50 AVOYACETO THE
fon has fome degree of it, he will be contemn-
ed and hated, if he pretends to exercife any au-
thority. This was really the cafe, in a great
meafure, with Omai ; though his countrymen
were rather cautious of exprefling their fenti-
ments while we continued among them.
If he had made a proper ufe of the prefents
he brought with him- from Great- Britain, this,
with the knowledge he had gained by travelling,
might have enabled him to form the moll ad-
vantageous connexions. But he exhibited too
many proofs of a weak inattention to this ob-
vious means of promoting his intereft. He had
formed fchemes of a higher nature ; it may
indeed be faid, meaner ; for revenge, rather
than a defire of greatnefs, appeared to influence
him from the beginning. His father was, cer-
tainly, a man of confiderable property in Ulie-
tea, when that ifland was fubdued by the inha-
bitants of Bolabola ; and, with many others, fled
for refuge to Huaheine, where he died, and left
Omai, with feveral other children, who thus
became entirely dependent. In this fituation.
Captain Furneaux took him up, and brought him
to England. Whether he expeXed, from the
treatment he there met with, that any afliftance
would be afforded him againfl: the enemies of his
father and his country, or whether he had die
vanity to fuppofe, that his own fuperiority of
knowledge, and perfonal courage, would be luf-
6 , ficicnt
PACIFIC OCEAN,
51
ficient to difpoflefs the conquerors of Ulietea, is
uncertain j but, from the very commencement
of the voyage, this was his conftant topic. He
would not. pay any attention to our remonftrances
on fuch an inconfiderate determination, but was
difpleafed, whenever morereafonablecounfels were
propofed for his benefit. Nay, he was fo rid i-
culoufly attached to his favourite fcheme, that
he affected .to believe the Bolabolans would cer-
tainly quit the conquered ifland, as foon as they
fhould have intelligence of his arrival in Otaheite.
As we proceeded, however, on our voyage, he
began to perceive his error ; and, by the time of
our arrival at the Friendly Ifiands, had fuch ap-
prehenfions of his reception in his own country,
rhat he was inclined to have remained at Ton-
gataboo, under the protection of his friend Fee-
nou. At thefe iflands, he fquandered away a
confiderable part of his European treafure ; and
he was equally imprudent at Otaheite, till Cap-
tain Cook put a flop to his profufion. He alfo
formed fuch improper connections there, that
Otoo, though at firft difpofed to countenance
him, afterwards openly exprelfed his difapprb-
bation of his conduCt. He might, however, have
recovered the favour of that chief, and have fet-
tled, to great advantage, in Otaheite, as he had
ormerly lived fome years there, and was now
honoured with the notice of Towha, whofe va-
luable prefent of a large double canoe has been
E 1 already
A V 0 V A G £ TO THE
\
• S2
already mentioned. But he continued undeter-
mined to the laftj and probably would not h^vc
adopted the plan of fettlement in Fiuaheine, if
Captain Cook had not fo pofitively refufed to
employ force in reftoring him to the pofiefiion
of his father’s property.
Omai’s greateft danger, in his prefent fituation,
will arife from the very imprudent declarations
of his antipathy to the Bolabolans. For thefe
people, from motives of jealoufy, will undoubt-
edly endeavour to render him obnoxious to the
inhabitants of Huaheine ; as they are now at
peace with that ifland, and may eafily accomplifh
their defigns. This circumftance, he might,
■with great eafe, have avoided. For they were not
only free from any averfion to him, but the chief,
whom we mentioned before, as a prieft or god,
even offered to reinftate him in his father’s lands.
But he peremptorily refufed this ; and, to the
very laft, continued fixed in his refolution to em-
brace the- firft opportunity of latisfying his re-
venge in battle. To this he is perhaps not a lit-
tle flimulated by the coat of mail he brought
from England; clothed in which, and furnifhed
with fire-arms, he idly imagines that he lhall be
invincible.
The defetts of Omai’s character were confi-
derably over-balanced by his great good-nature,
and docile, tradbable difpofition. Captain Cook,
during the whole time he was with him, feldom
had
PACIFIC OCEAN. 5J
had reafon to be ferioufly difpleafed with his ge-
neral conduct. His grateful heart ever retained
the higheft fenle of the favours conferred on him
in England ; nor will he ever be unmindful of
thole who honoured him, while in that kingdom,
with their friendfhip and protection. Though
he had1 a tolerable lhare of underflanding, he
fhewed little application and perfeverance in ex-
erting it, fo that he had but a general and im-
perfect knowledge of things. He was not a man
of any great degree of oblervation. There were
many elegant amufements, as well as ufeful arts,
among the Friendly Illanders, which he might
have conveyed to his native country, where they,
in all probability, would have been readily adopt-
ed. But we never found that he endeavoured
to make himfelf mailer of any one of them.
Such indifference is, indeed, the characterillic
foible of his countrymen. Though they have
been vifited by Europeans, at times, for thefe
ten years pall, we could not difcern the flighted:
veflige of any attempt to profit • by this inter-
courfe ■, nor have they hitherto imitated us in any
refpedt. It mull not, therefore, be expected,
that Qmai will be able to introduce among them
many of our arts and cuftoms, or much improve
thofe to which they have been familiarized by
long habit. We trull, however, that he will ex-
ert his endeavours to bring to perfection the vaT
rious fruits and vegetables that were planted by
E 3 Vsi
54
A VOYAGE TO THE
us ; which will be no fmall acquifition. But the
principal advantage thefe iflands are likely to
receive from the travels of Omai, will probably
arife from the animals that have been left upon
them } which, perhaps, they never would have
obtained, if he had not come over to England.
When thefe multiply, Otaheite, and the Society
Ifles, will equal any place in the known world,
with refpeft to provifions.
Omai’s return, and the fubftantial proofs he
carried back with him of Britifh liberality, en-
couraged many to offer themfelves as volunteers
to accompany us to Pretane. Captain Cook took
every opportunity of expreffing his fixed deter-
mination to rejed all applications of that kind.
Omar, who was ambitious of remaining the only
great traveller among them, being afraid left the
Captain might be prevailed upon to place others
in a fituation of rivalling him, frequently re-
minded him of the declaration of the Earl of
Sandwich, that no others of his countrymen were
to come to England.
Elad there been the fmalleft probability of any
ftiip being again fent to Nevv-Zealand, the Com-
modore would have brought the two youths of
that country home with him, both of them be-
ing very defirous of continuing with us. Tawei-
harooa, the eldeft, was endowed with ftrong na-
tural fenfe, was extremely well-difpofcd, and ca-
pable of receiving any jnftru&ion. He appear-
PACIFIC OCEAN.
ss
cd to be fenfible of the inferiority of his own
country to thefe iflands, and refigne® himfelf,
though perhaps not without relu&ance, to end his
days at Huaheine in eafe and plenty. But the
other, named Kokoa, was fo ftrongly attached to
us, that it became necefiary to make ufe of force
in carrying him afhore. He was a fmart witty
boy ; and, on that account, great notice had been
taken of him on board.
CHAP. VII. ,
Arrival at Ulietea—One of the Marines deferts ,
hut is brought hack hy Captain Cook— Intelli-
gence from Omai — Infir ufi ions to Captain Clerke —
Two others defer t — The two Captains feck
them in vain— the Chiefs Son , Daughter , and
her Hufhand , confined on hoard the Difcovery — •
Unfuccefsful Confpiracy of the Natives againfi
the Captains —the two Deferters are recover-
ed—the Chiefs Family fet at Liberty — the
Ships fail— Remarks on the Ulieteans—Prefent
and former State of their Ifland.
ft
A S foon as the boat, in which Omai was con-
A. X veyed afhore, had returned, with the re-
mainder of the hawfer, to the Ihip, we hoifted
E 4 her
A VOYAGE TO THI
56
her in, and flood over for Ulietea without delay.
The next* morning, which was the 3d of No-
vember, we made fail round the fouthern end of
that ifland, for the harbour of Ohamaneno. We
met with variable light airs and calms alter-
nately, fo that, at twelve o’clock, we were flill
at the diftance qf a league from the mouth of the
harbour ; and while we were thus detained, Oreo,
the chief of the ifland, with his fon and fop-in-
law, came off to pay us a vifit. All the boats
were now hoifted out, and fent a-head to tow,
being aflifled by a flight foutherly breeze. This
foon failing, and being fucceeded by an eaflerly
one, which blew right out of the harbour, we
were obliged to anchor at its entrance, about two
o’clock, and to warp in, which employed us till
night. We were no fooner within the harbour,
than our fhips were furrounded with canoes,
filled with the natives, who brought a fupply of
fruit and hogs, which they exchanged for our
commodities.
The following day, the Refolution was moored
cloie to the northern Shore, at the head of the
harbour; and the Difcovery along-fide the
fouthern Shore. Captain Cook, in the mean time,
returned Oreo’s vifit, and prefented that chief
with a red- feathered cap from Tongataboo, a
fhirt, a, linen gown, and a few other things of
lefs value. Oreo, and fome of his friends, then
accompanied him on board to dinner. On Thurf-
3 dax
pacific ocean. 57
day the 6th, the obfervatories were fet up, and
the neceffary inftruments carried on fbore. The
twp fucceeding days. Captain Cook, Mr. King,
and Mr. Bayly, obferved the fun’s azimuths., both
on fhore and on board, with all the compares,
jn order to difcover the variation. Nothing re-
markable happened, till very early in the morn-
ing of the. 13th, when a marine, named John
Harrifon, who was fentinel at the obfervatory,
deferted, taking with him his mufquet and ac-
coutrements. As foon as we gained intelligence
which way he had gone, a party was detached in
fearch of him but they returned towards the
evening, without fuccefs. JThe next day. Cap-
tain Cook applied to the chief concerning this
affair, who promifed to fend a party of the iflan-
ders after the fugitive, and gave us hopes that
he Ihould be brought back in the courfe of that
day. This, however, did not happen ; and we
had reafon to imagine, that the chief had taken
no fteps towards finding him.
We had, at this time, a confiderable number
of the natives about our (hips, and feveral thefts
were committed ; the confequences of which be-
ing apprehended by them, very few of them
came to vifit us the next morning. Oreo him-
felf caught the alarm, and fled with his whole
family. Captain Cook confidered this as a good
opportunity to infift upon their delivering up the
deferter and having heard that he was then at
- a place
A voyace to the
53
a place called Hamoa, fituate on the other fide
of the ifland, he repaired thither with two armed
boats, attended by a native- In their way, they
met with the chief, who alfo embarked with them.
I he Captain, with a few of his men, landing
about a mile and a half from the fpot, marched
up to it, with great expedition, left the fight of
the boats ftiould give the alarm, and allow the of-
fender fufficient time to make his efcape to the
mountains. This precaution proved unnecefifary ;
for the natives of that part of the'ifland having
obtained information of the Captain’s approach,
were prepared to deliver up the fugitive. He
was found, with his mufquet lying before him,
feated betwixt two women, who, the inftant that
the Captain entered the houfe, rofe up to plead
in his vindication. As fuch proceedings deferved
to be difcouraged, the Captain, with a ftern look,
bid them be gone ; upon which they burft into
tears, and retired. Paha, the chief of that dif-
tridt, now came with a fucking-pig, and a plan-
tain-tree, which he was on the point of prefenting
to Captain Cook, as a peace-offering ; who re-
]e6led it, and having ordered the chief to quit
his prefence, embarked with Harrifon in one of
the boats, and returned to the fhips. After this,
harmony was fpeedily reftored. The delinquent
made no other excufe for his conducft, than
that the natives had enticed him away; which
perhaps was in a great meafurc true, as Paha, and
the
PACIFIC OCEAN.
59
the two women above-mentioned, had been at
the fliip the day before his defertion. As he had
remained at his ftation till within a few miniates
of the time in which he was to have been re-
lieved by another, the punifhment he received
was not very fevere.
About a fortnight after we had arrived in Ulie-
tea, Omai dilpatched two of his people in a ca-
noe, with intelligence, that he continued un-
difturbed by the inhabitants of Huaheine, and
that every thing fucceeded with him, except that
his goat had died in kidding. This informa-
tion was accompanied with a requeft, that Cap-
tain Cook would fend him another goat, and alfo
two axes. Pleafed with this additional oppor-
tunity of ferving his friend, the Captain fent back
the meflengers to Huaheine, on the 18th, with
the axes, and a male and female kid.
On Wednefday the 19th, the Commodore de-
livered to Captain Clerke his inftrudtions howto
proceed, in cafe of reparation, after quitting thefe
iflands. The purport of thefe inftru&ions was
as follows : that, whereas the paftage from the
Society Ifies to the northern coaft of America
was of confiderable length, and as a part of it
muft be performed in the depth of winter, when
boifterous weather muft be expedited, which might
perhaps occafion a reparation. Captain Clerke
fhould take all poftible care to prevent this ; but
that if the two Ihips fhould chance to be fepa-.
rated.
6o
A VOYAGE TO THE
rated, he, after fearching for Captain Cook, and
not finding him in five days, was to proceed to-
wards the coaft of New-Albion, and endeavour
to fall in with it in the latitude of 450, where
he was to cruize for him ten days ; and not fee-
ing him in that time, was to put into the firft
convenient harbour, in or to the north of that
latitude, to obtain refrelhments, and take in wood
and water : that, during his continuance in port,
he was conftantly to look out for Captain Cook ;
and if the latter did not join him before the ift
of April following, he was to proceed northward
to the latitude of 56°, where, at fuch a diftance
from the coaft as did not exceed fifteen leagues,
he was to cruize for him till the 10th of May ;
and not finding him, was to proceed on a north-
erly courfe, and attempt to difeover a paffage
into the Atlantic Ocean, either through Hud-
fon’^ or Baffin’s Bays, as directed by the inftruc-
tions of the Board of Admiralty : that, if he
lhould fail in thofe endeavours, he was to re-
pair to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul in
Kamtfchatka, and pafs the winter there : but that
if he could not procure refrefhments at that port,
he was at liberty to go where he ffiould think
proper, leaving with the Governor, before his
departure, an account of his deftination, to be
delivered to Captain Cook on his arrival j and
that, in the fpring of the year following (1779)
he was to return to the port above-mentioned :
that
pacific ocean.
6i
that if he then received no further orders from
Captain Cook, fo as to juftify his purfuing any
other meafures than thofe which were pointed
out in the inftruCtions of the Lords of the Ad-
miralty, his future proceedings were to be di-
rected by them j and that, in cafe of being pie-
vented, by illnefs or any other caufe, from car-
rying thefe, and the, inftruCtions of their Lord-
fhips, into execution, he was to leave them with
the officer who was next in command.
While we lay moored to the fhore, we ferub-
bed both fides of the bottoms of our veflels, and
all’o fixed fome plates of tin under the binds.
Thefe plates Captain Cook received from the
ingenious Mr. Pelham, Secretary to the Com-
miffioners for victualling the royal navy, for the
purpole of trying whether tin would fucceed as
well as copper, in ffieathing the bottoms of fliips,
On Monday the 124th, in the morning, the
Commodore was informed that two of the Dif-
covery’s people, one of whom was a Midfhipman,
were miffing. Not long after, we learned from
the natives, that they had embarked in a canoe
the preceding night, and were now at the other
end of the ifland. As the Midfhipman had ex~
preffed a defire of continuing at one of thefe
ifiands, it was extremely probable that he and
his companion had gone off with that intent.
Captain Clerke therefore, with two armed boats,
and a detachment of marines, fet out in queft of
the
6 2
A VOYAGE TO TJ-1 2
the fugitives, but returned in the evening with-
out fuccefs. From the conduct of the Wanders,
he was of opinion, that they intended to con-
ceal the deferters 3 and, with this view, had de-
ceived him with falfe information, directing him
to feek for them where they could not be found.
He was not miftaken ; for, the next morning,
intelligence was brought, that the two runaways
were in the Ifle of Otaha. Thefe not being the
only perfons in the fhips who were delirous of
remaining at thefe favourite iflands, it was ne-
cefiary, in order to give an effectual difcourage-
ment to any further defertion, to recover them
at all events. Captain Cook therefore deter-
mined to go in purfuit of them himfelf, having
obferved that the natives feldom attempted to
amufe him with falfe information. He accord-
ingly fet out with two armed boats, accompa-
nied by Oreo himfelf. They proceeded, without
flopping at any place, till they came to the eaftern
fide of Otaha, where they putafliore; and the
chief difpatched a man before them, with orders
to feize the fugitives, and keep them till the
Captain and his attendants fhould arrive with the
boats. But when they had got to the place where
they expedited to find them, they were informed,
that they had quitted this ifland, and gone to
Bolabola the preceding day. The Captain, not
chufing to follow them thither, returned to the
fhips, with a full determination to have recourle
to
PACIFIC OCEAN*
to a meafure, which, he had reafon to believe,
would compel the natives to refto.re them.
On the 26th, Toon after break of day, Oreo,
with his fon, daughter, and fon-in-law, having
come on board the Refolution, Captain Cook re-
folved to detain the three laft, till our deferters
fhould be delivered up. With this view. Cap-
tain Clerke invited them on board his fhip ; and,
as foon as they arrived in his cabin, a lentinel
was placed at the door, and the window fecured.
This proceeding greatly furprized themj and
Captain Clerke having explained the reafon of it,
they burft into tears, and begged he would not
kill them. He allured them he would not, and
that the moment his people were brought back,
they Ihould be releafed. This, .however, did not
remove their uneafinefs, and they bewailed their
fate in filent forrow. The chief being with Cap-
tain Cook when he received intelligence of this
affair, immediately mentioned it to him, ima-
gining that this ftep had been taken without his
knowledge and approbation. The Captain in-,
ftantly undeceived him ; and then he began tq
entertain apprehenfions with refpeft to his own
fituation, and his countenance indicated the great-
eft perturbation of mind. But the Captain foon
quieted his fears, by telling him, that he was at
liberty to quit the fhip whenever he chofe, and
to take fuch fteps towards the recovery of our
two men, as he fhould judge beft calculated for
that
64
A voyage to thA
that purpofe ; and that, if he fhould meet with
fuccefs, his friends on board the Difcovery fhould
be releafed from their confinement : if not, that
they fhould certainly be carried away with us.
The Captain added, that the chief’s conduct, as
well as that of many of his countrymen, in not
only aflifting thefe two men to make their efcape,
but in endeavouring, at this very time, to pre-
vail upon others to follow them, would juftify
any meafure that would ferve to put a flop to
fuch proceedings. This explanation of the mo-
tives upon which the Commodore adted, feemed
to remove, in a great degree, that general con-
firmation into which Oreo, and his people who
were prefent, were at firft thrown. But, though
relieved from all apprehenfions with regard to
their own fafety, they were ftill under the deepefl
concern for theprifoners in the Difcovery. Num-
bers of them went under the ftern of that fhip
in canoes, and lamented their captivity with
long and loud exclamations. The name of Poe-
dooa (for that was the appellation of Oreo’s
daughter) refounded from every quarter and the
women not only made a moft difmal howling,
but ftruck their bofoms, and cut their heads with
fhark’s teeth, which occafioned a confiderable
effufion of blood.
The chief now difpatched a canoe to Bola-
bola, with a meflage to Opoony, king of that
ifland, informing him of what had happened,
and
PACIFIC OCEAN.
fs
and requelling him tofeize the two deferters, and
fend them back. Themeffenger, who was the father
of Oreo’s lon-in-law Pootoe, came to receive
Capt. Cook’s commands before his departure; who
ftridtly enjoined him not to return without the
fugitives, and to tell Opoony, from him, that,
if they had left the ifle of Bolabola, he mull fend
canoes in purfuit of them.
The impatient natives, not thinking proper to
trull to the return of our people for the releafe of
the priloners, were induced to meditate an at-
tempt, which, if it had not been prevented,
might have involved them in Hill greater dillrefs..
Between five and fix o’clock. Captain Cook, who
was then on.lhore, abreall of the Chip, obferved
that all their canoes, in and about the harbour,
began to move off. He enquired, in vain, for
the caufe of this ; till our people, calling to us
from the Difcovery, informed us, that fome of
the illanders had feized Captain Clerke and Mr.
Gore, as they were walking at a fmall dillance
fiom the fiiips. The Commodore, llruck with
the boldnefs of this fcheme of retaliation, which
feemed to counteradl him in his own way, in-
handy commanded his people to arm; and', in a
few minutes, a llrong party, under the conduct
. of Mr. King, was fent to the refcue of our two
gentlemen. Two armed boats, and a party under
Mr. Wilhamfon, were difpatched at the fame
time, to intercept the flying canoes in their re-
Vol, II. — 8. F
treat
A VOYAGE to the
treat to the A ore. Thefe detachments had fcarce^
ly gone out of fight, when intelligence arrived
that we had been mifinformed ; upon which they
were immediately called in.
It manifeftly appeared, however, from feveral
corroborating particulars, that the natives had
actually formed the defign of feizing Captain
Clerke ; and they even made no fecret in fpeak-
ing of it the following day. But the principal
part of their plan of operations was to have laid
hold of the perfon of Captain Cook. He was ac-
cuftomed to bathe every evening in the freffi
'water ; on which occafions he frequently went
alone, and always unarmed. Expefting him to
go this evening, as ufual, they had refolved upon
feizing him, and Captain Clerke likewife, if he
had accompanied him. But Captain Cook, after
confining the chief’s family, had taken care to
avoid putting himfelf in their power; and had
cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers, not to
go to any confiderable diftance from the fhips.
Oreo, in the courfe of the afternoon, afked our
Commodore, three or four times, if he would not
goto the bathing-place; till at length finding
' that he could not be prevailed upon, he retired,
with his people, notwithftanding all our entreaties
to the contrary. Having no fufpicion, at this
time, of their defign. Captain Cook imagined,
'■ that a luddCn' panic had feized them, which would
' probably be foon over. Being dilappointed with
" " '* refpeft
PACIFIC OCEAN.
.67
refpedl to him, they fixed upon thofe who were
more in their power. It was a fortunate circum-
ftance that they did not fucceed in their defign,
and that no mifchief was done on the occafion ;
nomufquets being fired, except two or three, to
flop the canoes ; to which firing, perhaps, Cap-
tain Clerke and Mr. Gore owed their fafety * ;
for, at that moment, a party of the inlanders,
armed with clubs, were marching towards them,
but difperfed on hearing the report of the muf-
quets.
This confjoiracy was firft difcovered by a girl,
who had been brought from Huaheine by one of
our officers. Happening to overhear fome of the
Ulieteans fay, that they would feize Meflrs. Clerke
and Gore, fhe immediately ran to acquaint the
firft of our people that fhe met with. Thofe who
had been intrufted with the execution of the de-
fign, threatened to put her to death, as foon as
we fhould quit Ulietea, for difappointing them.
Being aware of this, we contrived that the mrl’s
friends fhould come, a day or two afterwards, and .
take her out of the fhip, to convey her to a place
where fhe might remain concealed, till fhe fhould
find an opportunity of returning to Huaheine.
* It is not improbable that they were alfo indebted for their
fafety to Captain Clerke’s walking with a piftol in his hand,
\v nch he once fired. We mention this circurtiftance on the
authority of Captain King.
F 2
On
68
A VO V AGE TO THE
On Thurfday the 27th, we took down our ob-
fervatories, and carried on board whatever we
had afhorepwe then unmoored the fhips, and
moved a little way down the harbour, where we
anchored again. Towards the afternoon the na-
tives, fhaking off their apprehenfions, gathered
round, and on board, our (hips, as ufual ; and
the unpleafing tranfadtions of the preceding day
feemed to be almoft forgotten by both parties.
In the fucceeding night the wind blew in hard
fqualls, which were accompanied with heavy
fhowers of rain. In one of thefe fqualls, the
cable by which the Refolution was riding at an-
chor, parted; but, as we had another anchor
ready to let go, the fhip was quickly brought up
again.
No account of our two fugitives having been
received from Bolabola, Oreo now fet out for
that ifland, defiring Captain Cook to follow him,
the next day, with the fhips. This was the Cap-
tain’s intention ; but the wind prevented our
getting out to lea. The fame wind, however,
which detained us in the harbour, brought back
Oreo, with the two deferters, from Bolabola,
They had reached Otaha on the night of their
defertion ; but being unable, for the want of
wind, to get to any of the illands lying to the
eaftward, as they at frit intended, they had pro-
ceeded to Bolabola, and thence to a little ifland
called Toobaee, where they were apprehended by
1
PACIFIC. OCEAN. 69
Pootoe's father. As foon as they were brought
on board; the three prifoners in the Diicovery
were reftored to their liberty. Such was the ter-
mination of an affair, which had given the Com-?
inodore much trouble and vexation.
The wind continuing conftantly between the
north and weft, kept us in the harbour till Sunday
the 7th of December; when, at eight o’clock in
the morning, we weighed and made fail, with a
light breeze at the north-eaft point. During the
preceding week, we had been vifited by perfons
from all quarters of the ifland, who afforded us a
plentiful fupply of hogs and green plantains, fo
that -the time we remained wind-bound in the
harbour was not totally loft; for green plantains
are an excellent fuccedaneum for bread, and will
keep good for two or three weeks. Befides being
furnifhed with thefe provifions, we alfo took in
plenty of wood and water.
The Ulieteans appeared to be, in general,
fmaller and more black than the natives of the
adjacent iflands, and feemed alfo lefs orderly,
which may, perhaps, be owing to their having
become fubjecft to the inhabitants of Bolabola.
Oreo, their chief, is only a kind of deputy of
the Bolabolan monarch ; and the conqueft feems
to have diminifhed the number of fubordinate
chiefs refident among them : they are, therefore,
lefs immediately under the eye of thofe whofe in-
tereft it is to enforce a proper obedience. Though
F 4 Uliete*
4 P
7o
A VOYAGE TO THE
Ulictca is now reduced to this date of humiliating
dependence, it was formerly, as we were in-
formed, the moll eminent of this group of iflands,
and was probably the fir(l feat of government ;
for we were told, that the prefent royal family of
Otaheite derives its defcent from that which ruled
here before the late revolution. The dethroned
king of Ulictea, whofe name is Ooroo, refides at
Huaheine, furnifhing, in his own perfon, an in-
ftance not only of the in liability of power, but
nlfo of the refpedl paid by thefe illanders to par-
ticular families of princely rank; for they allow
Ooroo to retain all the enligns which are appro-
priated by them to royalty, notwithllanding his
having been deprived of his dominions. We o li-
fer ved a fimilar inftance of this during our flay
at Ulietea, where one of our occafional vifitants
was Captain Cook’s old friend O.ree, late chief
of Huaheine. He kill maintained his confe-
quence, and was conftantly attended by a numerous
retinue.
C H A P.
n
PACIFIC OCEAN., 7 J
CHAP. VIII.
proceed to Bolabola , accompanied by Oreo and others
— Application to Opoony for Monfieur de Bou-
gainville's Anchor — Reafons for purchafing it —
Delicacy of Opoony , in not accepting the Preferjt
—Quit the Society IJlands — Defcription of Boja-
bola , and its Harbour— Curious Hi/lory of the
Reduction of the two I/landsy Otaha and Ulietea
— Bravery of the Men of Bolabola — Account of
the Animals left at Bolabola and Ulietea — Procefs
offalting Pork— Curf dry Obfervations ref pelting
Otaheite3 and the Society IJlands.
ft
HAVING taken our leave of Ulietea, we
fleered for Bolabola. Our principal reafon
v for vifiting this ifiand was, to procure one of the
anchors which had been loft at Otaheite by Mon-
fieur de Bougainville. This, we were informed,
had been afterwards found by the natives there,
and fent by them to Opoony, the chief of Bola-
i bola. It was not on account of our being in want
of anchors that we were anxious to get pofleffion
of it i but, having parted with all our hatchets,
and other iron tools and implements, in purchafing
refrelhments, we were now obliged to create a
frefti affortment of trading articles, by fabricating
them from the fpare iron we could find on board,
and even the greateft part of that had been already
F 4 expended.
72
A VOYAGE TO THE
expended. Captain Cook, therefore, fuppofed
Monf. de Bougainville’s anchor would, in a great
meafure, fupply our want of this ufeful material,
and he did not entertain a doubt that Opoony
might be induced to part with it.
Oreo, accompanied by fix or eight others from
Ulietea, attended us to Bolabola •, and, indeed,
mofi: of the natives, except the chief, would
gladly have taken a paffage with us to England.
At fun-fet, being off the fout'h point of Bolabola,
we fliortened fail, and patted the night making
fihort boards. On the 8th, at day break, we made
fail for the harbour, on the weft fide of the ifland.
The wind being fcant, it was nine o’clock before
we were near enough to fend away a boat to found
the entrance.
The matter, when he returned with the boat,
* ■
reported, that the entrance of the harbour was
rocky at the bottom, but that there was good
ground within ; and the depth of water twenty- \
five and twenty-feven fathoms ; and that there
was room to turn the fhips in. Upon this infor-
mation, we attempted to work the fhips in ; but,
the wind and tide being againft us, we made two
or three trips, and found it could not be accom-
plifhed till the tide fhould turn in our favour. ,
Whereupon Captain Cook gave up the defign of *
carrying the fhips into the harbour, and embark-
ing in one of the boats, attended by Oreo and his
companions, was rowed in for the ifiand.
As
PACIFIC OCEAN.
7 3
As foon as they were got afliore, the Commo-
dore was introduced to Opoony, furrounded by a
vaft concourfe of people. The neccfiary foro. 1 i ry
of compliments being over, he requeded the
chief to give him the anchor j and, to induce him
to comply with the requefly produced the prefent
he intended for him. It confided of a linen night-
gown, fome gauze handkerchiefs, a fhirt, a k>ok-
ing-glafs, fome beads and toys, and fix axes,
Opoony, however, refufed to accept the prefent
till the Commodore had received the anchor ; and
ordered three perfons to go and deliver it to him;
with directions to receive from him what he
thought proper in return. With thefe meffengers
we fet out in our boats for a neighbouring ifland,
where the anchor had been depofited ; but it was
neither fo large, nor fo perfeft, as we expected.
By the mark that was upon it, we found that it
had originally weighed feven hundred pounds;
but it now wanted the two palms, the ring, and
part of the fhank. The reafon of Opoony’s re-»
fufing Captain Cook’s prefent was now apparent;
he, doubtlefs, fuppofed that the anchor, in its
prefent date, was fo much inferior to it in value,
that, when he faw it, he would be difpleafed.
The Commodore, notwithdanding, took the an-
chor as he found it, and fent the whole of the pre-
fent, which he, at fird, intended. This nego-
ciation being completed, the Commodore returned
on board, hoided in the boats, and made fail to
the
74
A VOYAGE TO' THE
the north. But, while we were hoifting in the
boats, we were vifited by lome of the natives,
who caipe off, in three or four canoes, to fee the
flips. They brought with them one pig, and a
fe w cocoa-nuts.
Had we remained there till the nekt day, we
ihould probably have been fupplied with plenty
of provifions ; and the natives would, doubtlefs,
be difappointed when they found we were gone :
but, having already a good flock of hogs and fruit
on board, and not many articles left to purchafe
more, we had no inducement to defer the profe-
cution of our voyage.
Oteavanooa, the harbour of Bolabola, fituated
on the well fide of the ifland, is very capacious j
and, though we did not enter it. Captain Cook
had the fatisfadion of being informed, by perfoas
employed by him for that purpofe, that it was a
very proper place for the reception of fhips.
Towards the middle of this ifland is a lofty
double-peaked mountain, which .appeared to be
barren on the eafl fide, but, on the weft fide,
has fome trees or bullies. The lower grounds,
towards the fea, like the other Hands of this
ocean, are covered with cocoa-palms, and bread- .
fruit trees. There are many little. Hots that Hr-;*
round it, which add to the number oT its inlu: >
bitants, and to the amount of, its vegetabje^
productions. , •*, J
r vCorifider-'
• ,
4
• •
i.
PACIFIC OCEAN-. 75
Confidering the fmall extent of Bolabola, being
only eight leagues in circumference, it is remark-
able that its people fhould have been able to con-
quer Ulietea and Otaha ; the former of which
iflands is, alone, more than double its fize. In
.each of Captain Cook’s three voyages, the war
which produced this great revolution, was fre-
quently mentioned and, as it may amufe the
reader, we fhall give the hiftory of it as related
by themfelves.
Ulietea and Otaha had long been friends or,
as the natives emphatically exprefs it, they were
confidered as two brothers, whofe views and in-
terefls were the fame. The ifland of Huaheine
was alfo admitted as their friend, but not in fo
eminent a degree. Like a traitor, Otaha leagued
with Bolabola, jointly to attack Ulietea ; whofe
people required the afiiftance of their friends of
Huaheine, againft thefe united powers. The in-
habitants of Bolabola were encouraged by a pro-
phetefs, who predicted their fuccefs j and, that
they might rely upon her prediction, Ihe defired
a man might be fent to a particular part of the
Tea, where, from a great depth, would arife a
ftone. He was accordingly lent in a canoe to the
place fpecifjed, and was going inftantly to dive
after the ftone, when, behold, it fpontaneoufly
ftarted up to the furface, and came immediately
into his hand ! All the people were aftoniflied at
tne nght i the ftone was deemed facred, and de-
pofited
A VOYAGE TO THE
76
pofited in the houfe of the Eatcoa ; and is ftill
preferved, as a proof that this propheteis had
great influence with the divinity. Elevated with
the hopes of vi&ory, the canoes of Bolabola at-
tacked thofe of Ulietea and Huaheine; the en
counter was of long duration, and, notwithftand
ing the miracle, the Bolabola fleet would have been
vanquifhed, had not that of Otaha arrived at the
critical moment. The fortune of the day was
now turned, and their enemies were totally de-
feated. Two days after, the men of Bolabola
invaded Huaheine, of which they made them-
felves matters ; it being weakly defended, as mod
of its warriors w'ere then abfent. Many of its
fugitives, however, having got to Otaheite, there
related their lamentable tale. This fo affc&ed
their own countrymen, and thofe of Ulietea
whom they found in that ifland, that they ob-
tained their affiftance. They were furnifhed with
only ten fighting canoes, and with that incon-
fiderable force, effected a landing at Huaheine,
when dark at night; and, taking the Bolabola
men by furprize, killed many of them, and dif-
perfed the rett. Thus they again poffefled them-
felves of their own ifland, which now remains in-
dependent, and is governed by its own chiefs.
"When the united fleets of Ulietea and Huaheine
were defeated, the men of Bolabola were applied
to by their allies of Otaha to be allowed an equal
fliare of the conquefts. This taing.refufed, the
alliance
1 4
PACIFIC OCEAN*.
77
alliance broke; and, during the war, Otaha was
conquered, as well as Ulietea, both of which re-
main fubject to Bolabola; the chiefs by whom
they are governed, being only deputies to Opoony,
the king of that ifland.
Such was their hiflory of the war. It has al-
ready been obferved, that thefe people are ex-
tremely deficient in recollecting the exa£t dates
of pail events. And, refpeCting this war, though
it happened but a few years ago, we could only
guefs at the time of its commencement and dura-
tion, the natives not being able to fatisfy our en-
quiries with any precifion. The final conquefl
of Ulietea, which terminated the war, had been
atchieved before Captain Cook was there in 1769 ;
but it was very apparent that peace had not been
long reftored, as marks of recent hoftilities having
been committed were then to be feen. By at-
tending-to the age of Teereetareea, the prefen t
chief of Huaheine, fome additional collateral
proof may be gathered. He did not appear to
be above ten or twelve years of age, and his fa-
ther, we were informed, had been killed in one
of the engagements.
The Bolabola men, fince the conquefl of Uli-
etea and Otaha, are confidered as invincible ; and
their fame is fo far extended, that, even at Ota-
heite, if not dreaded, they are refpecfted for their
valour. It 13 afferted, that they never fly from
an enemyj and that they always are victorious
againfl
73
A VOYAGE TO THE
againft an equal number of the other iflanders.
Their neighbours, too* afcribe much to the fupe-
riority of their god, who, they believed, detained
us by contrary winds at Ulietea.
*1 he eflimation in which the Bolabola men are
held at Otaheite, may be gathered from Monfieur
de Bougainville’s anchor having been fent to their
fovereign. I he intention of tranfpofting the
Span i Hi bull to their ifland, muft be afcribed to
the fame caufe. And they already poffeffed a
third European curiofity, a male animal brought
to Otaheite by the Spaniards. This animal had
been lb imperfectly defcribed by the natives, that
we had been much puzzled to conjecture what it
could be. Some good, however, generally arifes
out of evil. When Captain Clerke’s deferters
were brought back from Bolabola, they told us
the animal had been fhewn to them, and that it
was a ram. If our men had not deferted, it is
probable we fhould never have known this.
In confequence of this intelligence. Captain
Cook, when he landed to meet Opoony, carried
an ewe on lhore,of the Cape of Good Hope breed,
by which he has probably laid the foundation for
a breed of fheep at Bolabola. He alfo left with
Oreo, at Ulietea, two goats, and an Englifh boar
and low : fo that the race of hogs will be con-
fiderably improved, in a few years, at Otaheite,
and all the neighbouring illandsj and they will,
5 perhaps,
79
PACIFIC OCEAN.
perhaps, be flocked with many valuable Euro-
pean animals.
When this is really the cafe, thefe iflands will
be unrivalled in abundance and variety of refrefh-.
silent's for the fupply of navigators. Even in
their prefent flate, they are hardly to be excelled.
When the inhabitants are not difturbed by intefl-
tine broils, which has been the cafe for feveral
years pad:, their productions are numerous and
plentiful.
If we had pofTefled a greater afibrtment of goods,
and a proper quantity of fait, we might have faked
as much pork as would have been fufficient to laft
both fhips almofl a year. But we quite exhausted
our trading commodities at the Friendly Iflands,
Otaheite, and its neighbourhood. Our axes, in
particular, were nearly gone, with which, alone,
hogs were, in general, to be purchafed. The
fait that remained on board, was not more than
was requifite for curing fifteen puncheons of
meat.
The following procefs of curing pork has been
adopted by Captain Cook in his feveral voyages.
The hogs were killed in the evening; when
cleaned, they were cut up, and the bone taken
out. The meat was faked while it was hot, and
laid fo as to permit the juices to drain from it, till
the next morning: it was then faked again, put
into a calk, and covered with pickle. It re-
mained, in this fituation, four or five days ; when
it
So
A VOYAGE TO THE
it was taken out, and carefully examined ; and,
if any of it appeared to be in the lead: tainted,
which was fometimes the cafe, it was feparated
from the reft, which was repacked, headed up,
and filled with good pickle. It was again exa-
mined in about eight or ten days time, but there
appeared to be no neceftky for it, as it was gene-
rally found to be all, perfectly cured. Bay and
white fait, mixed together, anfwers the belt, though
either of them' will do alone. Great care was
taken that none of the large blood-veflels re-
mained in the meat 5 and not too much Ihould
be packed together at the firft falting, left thofe
pieces which are in the middle fhould heat, and
hinder the fait from penetrating them. In tro-
pical climates, meat ought not to be faked in
rainy fultry weather.
Europeans having, of late, fo frequently vi-
fited thefe iflanders, they may, on that account,
have been induced to breed a larger flock of
hogs; knowing that, whenever we come, they
may be certain of receiving what they efteem a
valuable confideration for them. They daily ex-
pert the Spaniards at Otaheite, and, in two or
three years time, they will doubtlefs expedt the
Englifh there, as well as at the other iOands. It
is ufelefs to allure them that you will not return,
for they fuppofe you cannot avoid it j though
none of them either know, or enquire, the reafon
of your coming. It would, perhaps, have been
better
PACIFIC OCEAN.
Si
better for thefe people, to have been ignorant of
our fuperiority, than, after once knowing it, to be
abandoned to their original incapacity. They
cannot, indeed, be reftored to their former happy
mediocrity, if the intercourfe between us fhould
be difcontinued.
It is, in a manner, incumbent on the Euro-
peans to pay them occafional vifits (once in three
or four years) to fupply them with thofe articles,
which we, by introducing, have given them a
predile&ion for. The want of fuch fupplies may
be feverely felt, when it is too late to return to
their old imperfedb contrivances, which they now
defpife and difcard. When the iron tools, with
which we have furnifted them, are worn out,
their own will be almoft forgotten. A Hone
hatchet is now as great a curiofity among them,
as an iron one was feven or eight years ago ; and
a chill'd made of bone, or ftone, is no where to
be feen. Spike nails have been fubftituted in the
room of the latter articles ; and they are weak
enough to imagine, that their ftore of them is in-
exhauftible, for they were no longer fought after.
Knives happened, at this time, to be in high
eftimation at Ulietea; and axes and hatchets bore
unrivalled fway at all the iflands. Refpecting ar-
ticles merely ornamental, thefe iflanders are as
changeable as the moll polilhed European na-
tions; for, an article which may be prized by
them to-day, may, perhaps, be rejected to-mor-
Vol. II.— n° 8. G row
32
A voyace to the
row, as a fafhion or whim may alter. But our
iron implements are To evidently ufeful, that they
rnufl continue to be high in their eftimation.
I hey would, indeed, be miferable, if they Ihould
ceafe to receive fupplies of what appears neceflary
to their comfortable exiftence ; as they are defti-
tute of the materials, and ignorant of the art of
fabricating them.
In our former relations, too much has already
been publifhed, refpefting fome of the modes of
life, which rendered Otaheite fo pleafing an abode
to many of our people ; and, if we could add any
finifhing ftrokes to that picture, we fhould be un-
willing to exhibit a view of luch licentious man-
ners as cannot fail to be difgufting.
Having now concluded our account refpefting
thefe iflands, which Hand fo confpicuous in the
lift of our difcoveries, we refer the reader to the
following chapter, for which we are indebted to
Mr. Anderfon.
y *
CHAT.
PACIFIC OCEAN,
CHAP. IX.
Strictures on former Accounts of Otaheite — The pre-
vailing Winds — Beauty and Fertility of the Coun-
try— Land hut little cultivated — Produce — Na-
tural Curiofities — Defcription of the Natives —
Delicacy of the Women — Their general Charac-
ter— Difpofed to amorous Gratifications — Their
Language — Ignorance of Surgery and Phyfic —
Animal Food chiefly eaten by the fuperior Clafs —
Pernicious Effects of Ava — Account of their dif-
ferent Meals — Connections between the two Sexes
— Circumcifion — Religion — Notions concerning
Lnynortality — Superfiitions — Strange T r adit ions
about the Creation — The King almofi deified—
Clajfes of the People — Punijhments — Peculiari-
ties of the adjacent Iflands — Limits of their Na-
vigation.
AFTER fome prefatory remarks, on the
accounts of the fuccefiive voyages of Cap-
tain Wallis, Monfieur de Bougainville, and Qap-
tain Cook, Mr. Anderfon begins to relate fuch
particulars concerning Otaheite, and its neigh-
bouring iflands, as he was able to procure from
Omai, or T^y converfing with the other natives.
For the greatefl part of the year, the wind
blows from between eaft-fouth-eaft, and eafl-
north-eaft. It fometimes blows with confiderable
' G 2 force.
A VOYAGE TO THE
s4
force, and is called by the natives Maaraee.
When the wind blows ftrong, the weather is ufu-
ally cloudy, with fomerain ; but, when it is more
moderate, it is clear, fettled, and ferene : if the
■wind fhould veer to fouth-eaft, or fouth-fouth-
eaft, it blows more gently, and is called Maoai.
In December and January, when the fun is nearly
vertical, both the winds and weather are very va-
riable ; but it often blows from weft-north-weft,
or north-weft. This wind is called T oerou ; and
is ufually attended by cloudy weather, and fome-
times rain. It feldom continues more than five
or fix days without interruption ; and is the only
wind that will permit the inhabitants of the iflands
to leeward to vifit this in their canoes. If the
wind is ftill more northerly, it has the different
appellation of Era-fotaia. The wind from fouth-
weft, and weft-fouth-weft, is more frequent than
the former, and is ufually gentle, with occafi-
onal calms and breezes, yet it fometimes blows
in very brifk fqualls. The weather is then ge-
nerally cloudy and rainy, with a clofe hot air;
often accompanied with much thunder and light-
ning. It is called by the natives Eton.
Though the natives have no very accurate
knowledge of thofe changes, they pretend to
have drawn fome conclufions from their effe&s.
\Yhen the fea has a hollow found, and dafhes
mildly on the fhore, they fay it portends good
weather; bur, if it founds harfhly, and the waves
rapidly
PACIFIC OCEAN. 8$
rapidly fucceed each other, the reverfe is to be
expected.
The fouth-eaft part of Otaheite, affords one of
the mod luxuriant profpe&s in the univerfe. The
hills are high, fleep, and craggy •, but they are
covered to the very fummits with trees and fhrubs;
the rocks feeming to poffefs the property of pro-
ducing their verdant clothing. The lower land
and vallies teem with various productions, that
grow with exuberant vigour, and convey to the
mind of the beholders, an idea, that no country
upon earth can vie with this in the ffrength and
beauty of vegetation ; nature has been equally li*
beral in diftributing rivulets, which glide through
every valley, dividing, as they approach the fta,
into feveral branches, fertilizing the lands through
which they run.
The habitations of the natives are irregularly
fcattered upon the flat land ; and many of them,
along the fhore, afforded us a delightful fcene
from our fhips; efpecially as the fea, within the
reef, is perfectly ftill, and affords, at all times, a
fafe navigation for the inhabitants, who are often
feen paffing and repaying in their canoes. On
beholding thefe delightful fcenes, I have often
regretted my inability to tranfmit fuch a defec-
tion of them, as would convey an impreffion
fomewhat fimilar to what I felt, who have been
fortunate enough to have been on the fpot. The
natural fertility of the country, combined with
G 3 the
86
/
A VOYAGE TO THE
the mildnefs and ferenity of the climate, has ren-
dered the natives fo carelefs in their cultivation,
that the fmalleft traces of it cannot, in many
places, be difcovered, though overflowing with
the richeft productions. The cloth plant, and
the a‘ va> or intoxicating pepper, are almofl: the
only things to which they fhew any attention.
The bread-fruit tree is never planted, but
fprings from the roots of the old ones, which
fpread themfelves near the furface of the ground.
Hence we may obferve, that the inhabitants 'of
Otaheite, inftead of being under a neceflity of
planting their bread, will rather be obliged to
prevent its progrefs ; which is, perhaps, fome-
times done, to afford room for a different fort of
trees, which may enable them to make fome va-
riety in their food.
The principal of thefe trees are the cocoa-nut
and plantain ; the firft of which requires no at-
tention, after it appears a foot or two above the
ground ; but the plantain requires fome care in
the cultivation ; for, about three months after it
fhoots up, it begins to bear fruit; during which
time it puts forth young fhoots, which fupply a
fucceflion of fruit ; the old flocks being cut down
as the fruit is taken off.
u The products of the ifland are more remark-
able for' their great abundance than for their
variety* and Curiofities here are not very nume-
rous. Among thefe may be reckoned a large
: lake
PACIFIC OCEAN.
87
Jake of frelh water, on the top of one of the
higheft mountains, at the diftance of almoft two
days journey. It is remarkable for its depth, and
abounds with eels of an enormous fize. This
being efteemed the greateft natural curiofitv of
the country, travellers, who come from other
illands, are ufually afked, among the firft things,
at their return, whether they have feen it. There
is alfo a fmall pond of water on this ifland, which
has a yellow fediment at the bottom. It has the
appearance of being very good, but has an of-
fenlive tafte, and often proves fatal to thofe who
drink a quantity of it ; and thofe who bathe in it,
break out in blotches.
On our arrival here, we were ftruck with the
remarkable contraft between the inhabitants of
Tongataboo, and thofe of Otaheite j the former
being of a robuft make, and dark colour, and
the latter having a diftinguilhed delicacy and
whitenefs. That difference, however, did not
immediately preponderate in favour of the Ota-
heiteans; and, when it did, it was, perhaps, oc-
cafioned more by our becoming accuftomed to
them j the marks, which had recommended the
others, beginning now to be forgotten.
The women, however, of Otaheite, poffefs all
thofe delicate charabteriftics, which in many coun-
tries diftinguifh them from the other fex. The
men wear their beards long here, and their hair
confiderably longer than at T ongataboo, which
G 4 gave
88 A VOYAC£ TO THE
gave them a very different appearance. The
Otaheiteans are timid and fickle. They are not
fo mufcular and robuft as the Friendly Ifianders,
arifing, perhaps, from their being accuftomed to
lefs adlion ; the fuperior fertility of their country
enabling them to lead a more indolent life. They
have a plumpnefs and fmoothnefs of the fkin ;
which, though more confonant with our ideas of
beauty, is far from being an advantage ; anti is
attended with a kind of languor in all their mo-
tions. This is vifible in their boxing and wreft-
ling, which difplay only the feeble efforts of
children, if compared to the vigour and adtivity
with which fuch exercifes are performed at the
Friendly Iflands.
As perfonal endowments are in high eftimation
among them, they have various methods of im-
proving them, according to their ideas of beauty.
Among the Erreoes , or unmarried men, efpeci-
ally thofe of fome confequence, it is cuftomary
to undergo a kind of phyfical operation, to ren-
der them fair; which is done by continuing a
month or two in the houfe, wearing a great quan-
tity, of cloaths the whole time, and eating no-
thing but bread-fruit, which they fay is remark-
ably efficacious in whitening the fkin. They
alfo intimate, that their corpulence and colour,
at other times, depend upon their food; being
obliged, as the feafons vary, to ufe different food
at different times.
Nine-
PACIFIC OCEAN.
s9
Nine-tenths, at lead, of their common diet,
confift of vegetable food ; and the mahee , or
fermented bread-fruit, which is an article in ai-
med every meal, prevents codivenefs, and has
a fingular effed in producing a coolnefs about
them, which was not perceivable in us who fed
von animal food. To this temperate courfe of
life, may, perhaps, be attributed their having
fo few difeafes among them. Indeed, they men-
tion only five or fix chronic or national diforders j
among which are the dropfy, and the fefai , men-
tioned as frequent at Tongataboo. This was,
however, before the arrival of the Europeans ;
for we have added a difeafe to their catalogue,
which abundantly fupplies the place of all the
others, and is become almod univerfal ; and for
which they feem to have no effedual remedy.
The prieds, indeed, adminider a medley of dim-
ples, but they acknowledge it never cures them.
They admit, however, that in fome few cafes,
nature alone has exterminated the poifon of this
loathfome difeafe, and produced a perfed reco-
very, They fay alfo, that thofe infeded with it,
communicate it to others, by handling them, or
feeding on the fame utenfils.
They Ihew an opennefs, and generofity of dif-
pofition, upon all occafions. Omai, indeed, has
frequently laid, that they exercife cruelty in pu-
nilhing their enemies, and torment them with
great deliberation \ foretimes tearing out fmall
3 pieces
9°
A VOYAGE TO THE
pieces of flefh from different parts of the body •
at other times, plucking out the eyes, then cut-
ting off the nofe ; and laftly, completing the bu-
finefs, by opening the belly. But this is only on
very extraordinary occafions. If chearfulnefs re-
fults from corifcious innocence, one would ima-
gine their whole lives had been unfullied with a
crime. This, however, may be rather imputed
to their feelings, which, though lively, are ne-
ver permanent, Under any misfortune, after the
critical moment is pad, they never labour un-
der the appearance of anxiety. Care never pro-
duces a wrinkle on their brow ; even the approach
of death does not deprive them of their viva-
city. I have feen them, when on the brink of
the grave by difeafe, and when preparing to at-
tack the enemy ; but, in neither of thefe cafes,
have I ever obferved their countenances over-
clouded with melancholy or dread.
Difpofed, as they naturally are, to diredt their
aims to what will afford them eafe or pleafure,
all their amufements tend to excite their amo-
rous paffions ; and their longs, with which they
are greatly delighted, are directed" to the fame
purpofe. A conftant fucceffion of fenfual enjoy-
ments mud, however, cloy ; and they occafionally
varied them to more refined l'ubjedts ; they chant-
ed their triumphs in war, and their amufements
in peace ; their travels and adventures ; and the
peculiar advantages of their own illand.
This
PACIFIC OCEAN. 91
This Ihews that they are immoderately fond of
mufic, and though they did not relifh our com-
plicated compofitions, they were much delighted
with the more melodious founds, when produced
fingly, as they, in fome degree, refembled the
fimplicity of their own. They equally experi-
ence the foqthing efFedts produced by particular
kinds of mqtion ; which, in many cafes, will
allay any perturbation of mind, as fuccefsfully
as mufic. Of this, the following may ferve as a
remarkable inftance. Walking, one day, about
Matavai Point, I faw a man in a fmall canoe,
paddling with fuch expedition, and looking fo
eagerly about him, as to command my whole at-
tention. At firft, I fuppofed he had been pilfer-
ing from one of the fliips, and was purfued ; but
he prefently repeated his amufement. He pro-
ceeded from the lhore to the place where the
fwell begins j and, attentively watching its firft
motion, paddled fwiftly before it, till he perceiv-
ed it overtook him, and had acquired fufficient
ftrength to force his canoe before it, without
palling underneath. He then ceafed paddling,
and was carried along as rapidly as the wave, till
he was landed upon the beach ; when he ftarted
from his canoe, emptied it, and went in purfuit
of another fwell. He feemed to experience the
moft fupreme delight, while he was thus fwiftly
and fmoothly driven by the fea. His mind was
fo wholly occupied in this bufinefs, that, though
* crouds
92
A VOYAGE TO THE
crouds of his countrymen were collected to ob-
ferve our tents and fhips, as being objects that
were both rare and curious to them, he did not
notice them in the lead. Two or three of the
natives drew near, while I was obferving him,
and feemed to partake of his felicity 5 ' calling out
to inform him when there was an appearance of
a favourable fwell. This exercife, which I un-
derfund is very frequent among them, is called
ehorooc .
Though the language of Otaheite feems radi-
cally the fame as that of New-Zealand and the
Friendly Illands, it has not that guttural pronun-
ciation, and is pruned of fome of the confonants,
with which thole dialedls abound ; which has
rendered it, like the manners of the inhabitants,
foft and foothing. It abounds with beautiful and
figurative expreffons, and is fo copious, that
they have above twenty different names for the
bread-fruit ; as many for the taro root, and half
that number for the cocoa-nut.
They have one expreffion correfponding ex-
actly with the phrafeology of the Scriptures, viz.
“ Yearning of the bowels.” They ufe it upon
every occafion, when affedted by the paffions ;
conftantly referring pain from grief, defire, and
other affedtions, to the bowels, as the feat of it;
where, they imagine, all operations of the mind
are alfo performed.
la
PACIFIC OCEAN.
93
In the arts, they are extremely deficient ; yet
they pretend to perform cures in furgery, which
our knowledge in that branch has not enabled us
to imitate. Simple fractures are bound up with
fplints, but, if a part of the bone be loft, they
infert, between the fradtured ends, a piece of
wood made hollow, *to iupply its place. The
rapaooy or furgeon, infpebts the wound in about
five or fix days, when he finds the wood is partly
covered by the growing fiefli and, in as many
more days, vifits the patient a fecond time, when
it is generally completely covered ; and, when he
has acquired fome ftrength, he bathes in the
water, and is reftored.
Wounds, it is well known, will heal over
leaden bullets, and there are fome inftances of
their heading over other extraneous bodies. But
what makes me entertain fome doubt of the truth
of this relation, is, that in thofe cafes which fell
under my obfervation, they were far from being
fo dexterous. I was fhewn the frump of an arm,
which had been taken off, that had not the ap-
pearance of a fkilful operation, after making a
due allowance for their defective inftruments.
And I faw a man going about with a diflocated
fhoulder, fome months after he had received the
accident, from their being unacquainted with a
method of reducing it; though it is one of the
fimpleft operations of our furgery.
Frac-
94
A V07AGt TO THE
Fradlures of the fpine, they know, are mortal ;
and they alfo know, from experience, in what
particular parts of the body wounds prove fatal,
i heir phyfical knowledge feems yet more limit-
ed, becaufe, perhaps, their difeafes are fewer than
their accidents. In fome cafes, however, the
priefts adminifter the juices of herbs; and wo-
men, afflicted with after-pains, or other com-
plaints after child-bearing, ufe a remedy which
feems unneceflaryin a hot country. Having heated
fome (tones, they lay a thick cloth over them,
covered with a quantity of a fmall plant of the
muftard kind ; and over them is fpread another
cloth. On this they feat themfelves, and fweat
profufely to obtain a cure. This method has
been pradtifed by the men, though ineffedtually,
for the cure of the venereal lues. It i$ remark-
able, that they have no emetic medicines here.
A famine frequently happens in this ifland, not-
withftanding its extreme fertility, in which many
people are faid to perifh. Whether this cala-
mity be owing to the fcantv produce of fome fea-
fons, to over-population, or to wars, I have not
been fufficiently informed ; but it has taught
them to exercife the ftridteft oeconomy, even in
the times of plenty.
In a lcarcity of provifion, when their yams and
bread-fruit are confumed, they have recourfe to
various roots which grow uncultivated upon the
mountains. T he patarra3 which is found in great
plenty.
pacific ocean.
95
plenty, is firft ufed : it fomewhat refembles a large
potatoe, or yam ; and, when in its growing date,
is good, but becomes hard and ftringy when
old. They next eat two other roots, one of which
appears lik ztaro, and then the eboee. Of this
there are two forts ; one of which pofieftes dele-
terious qualities, which requires it to be fliccd,
and macerated in water, a night before it is bak-
ed for eating. It refembles, in this refpeCt, the
cajfava root of the Weft-Indies ; but, in the man-
ner they drefs it, has a very infipid tafte. This
and the patarra are creeping plants, the latter
haying ternate leaves.
A very fmall portion of animal food is enjoy-
ed by the lower clafs of people ; and if, at any
time, they obtain any, it is either fifh, fea-eggs,
ji or ot;her marine productions j for pork hardly
ever falls to their fhare. Only the Itvse ds hoiy
is able to afford pork every day and the infe- '
rior chiefs, according to their riches, perhaps
once a week, a fortnight, or a month. Some-
times, indeed, they are not allowed that ■„ for,
when the ifland is impoverifhed by war, or any
other means, a prohibition is granted againft the
killing of hogs, which fometimes continues in
force foi feveral months, and even for a year or
two. In fuch an interval, the hogs have multi-
plied fo faft, that there have been inftances of
their changing their domeftic ftate, and becom-
ing wild.
3
When
A VOYAGE TO THE
96
When this prohibition is taken off, the chiefs
affemble at the king’s habitation, each bringing
with him a prefent of hogs. After this, the king
orders fome of them to be killed, of which they
all partake, and each returns to his own home,
with full permiffion to kill as many as he pleafes
for his own ufe. On our arrival here, fuch a
prohibition was adtually in force, at lead; in thofe
diftrifts under the immediate dire£tion of Otoo.
And, when we quitted Oheitepeha, fearing we
fhould not have gone to Matavai, he fent a mef-
fenger to afiure us, that, as foon as the Ihips ar-
rived there, it lhould be taken off. We found
it fo, but our confumption of them was fo great,
<
that there is very little doubt but it would be
laid on again, immediately after we had failed.
A prohibition is fometimes extended to fowls.
The ava is chiefly ufed among the better fort
of people, but this beverage is differently pre-
pared, from that which we law in the Friendly
I {lands. Here they pour a fmall quantity of
water upon the root, and often bake, roaft, or
bruife the Italics, without chewing it before it
is infufed. They alfo bruife the leaves of the
plant here, and pour water upon them, as upon
the root. It is not drank in large companies,
in that fociable way which is praftifed among the
people at Tongataboo j but it has more perni-
cious effects here, owing, perhaps, to the man-
ner
PACIFIC OCEAN. 97
ner of its preparation ; as we faw frequent in-
fiances of its intoxicating powers.
Many of us, who had vifited thefe iflands be-
fore, were furprized to find feveral of the natives,
who were remarkable for their fize and corpu-
lency, when we faw them lafl, now almoft re-
duced to fkeletons; and the caufe of this alter-
ation was univerfally attributed to the ufe of the
ava. Their fkins.were dry, rough, and covered
with fcales ; which, they fay, occafionally fall off,
and their fkin becomes, in fome degree, renew-
• .
ed. As an excufe for fo deftruftive a practice,
they alledge, it is to prevent their growing too
corpulent ; but it enervates them exceedingly,
and probably fhortens the duration of their lives.
Their meals at Otaheite are very frequent. The
firfl is about two o’clock in the morning, after
which they go to fleep ; the next is at eight ; they
dine at eleven, and again, as Omai expreffed it,
at two, and at five ; and they go to flipper at
eight. They have adopted fome very whimfical
cufloms, in this article of domeflic life. The
women are not only obliged to eat by themfelves,
but are even excluded from partaking of. moil
of the better forts of food, turtle, or fifh of the
tunny kind, they dare not touch, though it is
high in efteem j fome particular forts of the bell
plantains, are alfo forbidden them; and even
thofe of the firfl; rank are feldom permitted to
eat pork. The children, of both fexes, alfo eat
Yol. II. — n° 8. IT apart;
5?
A VOYAGE TO THE
apai t ; and the women ufually ferve up their
own provifions.
In this, and many other cuftoms, relative to
their eating, there is fomething exceedingly myf-
terious. On our enquiring into the reafons of
it, we were told, it was neceflary that it fhould
be fo ; and that was the only anfwer we could
receive, when we interrogated them upon that
fubjeX.
They are not fo obfcure and myfterious in their
other cuftoms refpeXing the females, efpecially
with regard to their connexions with the men.
When a young man and woman, from mutual
choice, agree to cohabit, the man makes a pre-
fent to the father of the girl of the common ne-
ceflaries of life, as hogs, cloth, or canoes ; and
if he fuppofes he has not received a valuable
confidei ation for his daughter, he compels her
to leave her former friend, and to cohabit with
a perfon who may be more liberal. The man,
indeed, is always at full liberty to make a new
choice ; or, fhould his confort become a mother,
he may deftroy the child and afterwards either
leave the woman, or continue his connexion
with her. But, if he adopts the child, and per-
mits it to live, the man and woman arc then con-
fidered as in the married ftate and, after that,
they feldom feparate. A man may, however,
without being cenfured, join a more youthful
partner
partner to his firft wife, and live with both of
them.
The cuftom of changing their coningal con-
nexions is very general, and is fo common an
occurrence, that they mention it with indiffer-
ence. The erreoes , or thofe of the better fort,
who polfefs the means of purchafing a fucceffion
of frefh connexions, are generally roaming about ;
and, having no particular attachment, feldom
adopt the plan of a fettled cohabitation. And
this licentious plan of life is fo agreeable to their
difpofition, that the molt beautiful of both fexes
exhaud their youthful days, in praXices which
would difgrace the molt favage tribes, Thefe
enormities are peculiarly fhocking in a country,
whofe general charaXer has, in other refpeXs,
evident traces of the prevalence of humane
feelings. When an erreoe woman brings forth
a child, it is fuffocated by applying a cloth to
its mouth and nofe, which has been prevjoufly
dipped in water.
As the women, in fuch a life, mult contribute
greatly to its happinefs, it is furpnfing that they
lhould not only differ the mod humiliating re-
paints, with regard to food, but fhould be of-
ten treated with a degree of brutality, which one
would fuppofe a man mud be incapable of, to-
wards an objeX for whom he had the lead affec-
tion or edeem. It is, however, extremely com-
mon to fee the men beat them mod unmerci-
U 2 fully $
too
A VOYAGE TO THE
fully i and unlefs this behaviour proceeds from
jealoufy, which both fexes fometimes pretend to
be infedted with, it will be difficult to affign a
reafon for it. This may the more readily be ad-
mitted as a motive, as I have known many in-
ftances, where intereft has been rejedted for per-
fonal beauty ; though, even in thefe cafes, they
are not fufceptible of thofe delicate lentiments
that refult from mutual affedtion. Platonic
love is hardly known in Otaheite.
From a notion of cleanlinefs, the cutting of
the forefkin is a pradtice adopted among them ;
and they beftow a reproachful epithet upon thofe
who negledt that operation. When five or fix
lads in a neighbourhood are pretty well grown
up, it is made known to a taboua , by the fa-
ther of one of them. The taboua , attended
by a fervant, conducts the lads to the top of
the hills ; and, ^after feating one of them in a
proper manner, places a piece of wood beneath
the forefkin ; at the fame time amufing him, by
defiring him to look afide at fome thing which
lie pretends to fee. The young man’s attention
being thus engaged, he immediately cuts through
the fkin with a fhark’s tooth, and feparates the
divided parts ; then, after putting on a bandage,
lie performs the fame operation on the other lads
who attend him.
Five days after they have been thus difciplin-
ed, they bathe, the bandages are removed, and;
9 the
PACIFIC OCEAN.
IOI
the matter is cleanied away. When five days
more are expired, they bathe again, and are
recovered ; but, as a thicknefs of the prepuce
remains, occafioned by the cutting, they again
afcend the mountains with the tahoua and fer-
vant, where a fire is prepared, and fome ftones
heated ; between two of which the prepuce is
placed by the tahoua , and is gently fqueezed, in
order to remove the thicknefs. This done, they
return home, adorned with odoriferous flowers j
and the tahoua is rewarded by the fathers of the
lads, according to their feveral abilities, with a
prefent of hogs and cloth j and if their poverty
will not permit them to make a proper acknow-
ledgement, their relations, on this occafion, are
expected to be liberal.
Their religious fyftem abounds in Angularities,
and few of the common people have a compe-
tent knowledge of it, that being principally con-
fined to their priefts, which, indeed, are nume-
rous. They pay no particular refpeft to one
god, as poflefling pre-eminence ; but believe in
a plurality of divinities, who have each a pleni-
tude of power.
As different parts of the ifland, and the other
neighbouring iflands, have different gods, the
refpe&ive inhabitants imagine they have chofen
the mod eminent, or one who is, at leaft, furfi-
ciently powerful to protedl them, and to fupply
their neceffities. If he fhould not give them
H 3 fatisfa&ion.
102
A VOYAGE TO T fT fe
fatisfadtion, they think it no impiety to change.
An inftance of this kind has lately happened in
Tiaraboo, where two divinities have been dis-
carded, and Oral, god of Bolabola, has been
adopted in their room. They have probably been
induced to make this new choice, becaufe his
people have been vidtorious in war ; and, hav-
ing, fince their new election, been fuccefsful a-
gainft the inhabitants of Otaheite-nooe , it is folely
imputed to Oraa, who literally fights their
battles.
In ferving their gods, their affiduity is remark-
ably confpicuous. The whattas, or offering-
places of the morals are, in general, loaded with
fruits and animals ; and almolt every houfc has a
portion of it fet apart for a fimilar purpofe. Many
of them are fo rigidly fcrupulous in their reli-
gious matters, that, they will not even begin a
meal, till they have laid afide a morfel for the
eatooa ■, and we have feen their fuperftitious zeal
carried to a mod pernicious height in their hu-
man facrifices, which are, I fear, too frequent.
They probably have recourfe to them to avert
misfortunes. Their prayers, which they always
chant like the fongs in their feftive entertainments,
are alfo very frequent.
As in other cafes, fo in religion, the women
are obliged to Ihew their inferiority. When they
pafs the morals , they muff partly uncover them-
felves, or take anextenfive circuit to avoid them.
Though
PACIFIC OCEAN.
XOJ
Though they do not entertain an opinion, that
their god muff be continually conferring bene-
fits, without fometimes forfaking them; they are
lei's concerned at this, than at the attempts of
fome inaufpicious being to injure them. Etee>
they fay, is an evil fpirit, who delights in mif-
chief ; to whom they make offerings, as well as
to their divinity. But all the mifchiefs they
apprehend from invifible beings, are merely
temporal.
As to the foul, they believe it to be both im-
mortal and immaterial; that, during the pangs
of death, it keeps fluttering about the lips ; and
that it afcends, and is eaten by the deity : that it
continues in this ftate for fome time; after which
it takes its paiTage to a certain place, deftined to
receive the fouls of men, and has exiftence in
eternal night ; or rather in .a kind of dawn, or
twilight.
They expedt no permanent punifftment herea f»
ter, for crimes committed upon earth ; the fouls of
good and bad men being indifcriminately eaten
by the deity. But they confider this coalition
as a kind of neceflary purification before they
enter the regions of blifs ; for their dodtrine in-
culcates, that thofe who refrain from all fenfual
connedtion with women fome months before they
depart this life, pafs into their eternal manfion,
without fuch a previous union, as if, by fuch an
H /f, -Abffinerjcea
A VOYAGE TO THE
IO4
"abftinence, they were fufficiently pure to be exr
erupted from the general lot.
They have not indeed thofe fublime concep-
tions of happinels, which our religion, and, in-
deed, our reafon, teach us to expeCt hereafter.
Immortality is the only great privilege they think
they fhall acquire by death ; for they fuppofe that
fpirits are not entirely diverted of thofe partions,
by which they were actuated when combined
with material vehicles. Thus, at a meeting of
fouls which were formerly enemies, many con-
flicts may enfue, which muft certainly be inef-
fectual, as thofe who are in this invifible ftate
r J
muft be invulnerable.
Their reafoning is fimilar with regard to the
O j 0 . 1
meeting of a man and his confort
If the huf-
band departs this life firft, the foul of his wife is
no ftranger to him, on its arrival in the land of
fpirits. They renew their former intimacy, in a
capacious building, called Tourooa , where de-
parted fouls affemble to recreate themfelves with
the gods. The hufband then conducts her to
..
his feparate habitation, where they eternally re-
fide, and have an offspring, which, however, is
purely fpiritual, as their embraces are fuppofed
to be far different from thofe of corporeal beings.
Many of their notions refpeCting the Deity,
are extravagantly ablurd. They fuppofe him to
be under the influence of thofe fpirits, who de-
rive their exiftence from him ; and that they fre-
quently
PACIFIC OCEAN. IO5
quently eat him, though he has power to re-
create himfelf. They cannot converfe about im-
material things, without referring to material ob-
jects to convey their meaning, and therefore, per-
haps, they ule this mode of expreflion.
They further add, that, in the tour 00a , the
deity enquires whether they mean to deitroy him,
pr not; and their determination is unalterable.
This is not only known to the fpirits, but alfo
to the inhabitants of the earth ; for, when the
moon is on its wane, they are fuppofed to be de-
vouring their eatooa ; and, in the proportion that
it increafes, he is renewing himfelf. And the
fuperior, as well as the inferior gods, are liable,
to this accident.
Other places, they alfo believe, are prepared
for the reception of departed fouls. Thus they
are of opinion, that thofe who are drowned in
the fea, continue there, and enjoy a delight-
ful country, fumptuous habitations,, and every
thing that can contribute to their happinefs. They
even maintain that all other animals have fouls ;
and even trees, fruit, and ftones ; which, at their
deceafe, or upon their being confumed or broken,
afcend to the deity, from whom they pafs into
their deltined manfion.
They imagine, that every temporal bleffing is
derived from their pun&ual performance of re-
ligious offices. They believe that the powerful
influence of the divine fpirit is univerfally diffuf-
ed.
A VOYAGE TO THE
106
ed, and therefore it cannot be matter of fur-
prize that they adopt many fupcrftitious opi-
nions concerning its operations. Sudden
deaths, and all other accidents, they fuppofe
to be effedled under the immediate impulfe of
fome divinity. If a man receives a wound in his
toe, by Humbling againft a Hone, it is imputed
to an Eat oca.
In the night, on approaching a toopapaoo ,
where dead bodies are expofed, they are ftartled
and terrified j as many of our ignorant and fuper-
ftitious people are at the fight of a church-yard,
or with the apprehenfions of ghofts. They have
implicit confidence in dreams, fuppofing them to
be communications from their Deity, or from the
ipirits of their friends who have departed this life ;
and that thofe who are favoured with them can
foretel future events : but this kind of knowledge
js limited to particular perfons. Omai pretend-
ed to have thefe communications. He aflured
us, that, on the 26th of July, 1776, his father’s
foul had intimated to him in a dream, that he
fhould land fomewhere in three days ; but he
was unfortunate in his firfl: prophetic attempt,
for we did not get into Teneriffe till the firft of
Auguft.
Their dreamers, however, are thought little
inferior to their infpired priefts and prieftefles,
whofe predictions are univerfally credited j • and
all undertakings of confrcjuence are determined
by
107
*
PACIFIC OCEAN.
by them. Opoony has a particular efteem for
the prieftefs who perfuaded him to invade Ulietea,
and always confults her previous to his going to
war. Our old doftrine of planetary influence,
they, in fome degree, adopt ; and are fometimes
regulated, in their public counfels, by the ap- .
pearances of the moon. If, on its firfl: appear-
ance after the change, it lies horizontally, they
are encouraged to engage in war, and feem con-
fident of fuccefs.
They have Arrange obfcure traditions concern-
ing the creation. Some goddefs, they fay, had
a lump of earth fufpended in a cord, and, by
giving it a fwing round, fcattered about feveral
pieces of land, which conftituted Otaheite and
the adjacent iflands ; and that they were all peo-
pled by one of each fex, who originally fixed at
Otaheite but this only refpedts their own im-
mediate creation ; for they admit of an univerfal
one before this. Their remoteft account extends
to Tatooma and Tapuppa, who are male and fe-
male rocks, and fupport our globe. Thefe be-
gat Totorro, who was killed and divided into
parts or parcels of land ; then Otaia and Oroo
were produced, who were afterwards married,
and firfl: begat land, and then a race of gods.
Otaia being killed, Oroo marries her fon, a god,
named Teorraha, whom fhe orders to create ani-
mals, more land, and every kind of food found
upon the earth. She alfo ordered him to create
alky.
a Voyage to the
ic8
a f ky, which is fupported by men, called Tee-
ferei. The lpots obfervable in the moon, they
fay, are groves of a certain tree which once grew
in Otaheite, and being accidentally deftroyed,
fome doves carried its feeds thither, where they
fiourifh- at this day.
They have many religious and hiftorical le-
gends ; one of which, relative to eating human
flefh, is, in fubftance, as follows : A very long
time ago, there lived at Otaheite, two men who
were called Taheeai ; a name which is now given
to cannibals. They inhabited the mountains,
whence they ifiued forth, and murdered the na-
tives, whom they afterwards devoured, and thus
prevented the progrefs of population. Two bro-
thers, anxious to rid the country of fuch enemies,
fuccefsfully put in practice a ftratagem for their
deltru&ion. They lived farther upward than the
' Taheeai , and were fo fituated, that they could
converfe with them without hazarding their own
fafety. They invited them to partake of an en-
tertainment, to which they readily confented.
The brothers then heated fome ftones in a fire,
and thrufting them into pieces of mahee , requeft-
ed one of the 'Taheeai to open his mouth ; when
one of thofe pieces was immediately dropped in,
and fome water poured after it, which, in quench-
ing the ftorie, made a hilling noife and killed
him. The other was entreated to do the fame,
but, at firft declined it, mentioning the confc-
quenccs
PACIFIC OCEANa rlpg
quences of his companion’s eating: but, upon
being allured that the food was excellent, that
thefe effects were only temporary, and that his
companion would foon recover, he was fo ere*
dulous as to fvvallow the bait, and was alfo killed.
Their bodies were then cut to pieces, and bu-
ried by the natives, who rewarded the brothers
with the government of the illand, for delivering
them from fuch monfters. They refided at Wha-j
paeenoo, a diltriit in the illand, where there now
remains a bread-fruit tree, which was once the
property of the Haheeciis. They had a woman
who lived with them, that had two enormous
teeth. After they were killed, fhe lived at Ota-
ha ; and, when Ihe died. Hie was ranked among
their deities. She did not, like the men, feed
upon human flefh \ but, from the prodigious fize
of her teeth, the natives Hill call any animal that
has large tulks, Taheeai .
This llory, it muff be acknowledged, is as na-
tural as that of Hercules deftroying the hydra,
or of Jack the Giant-killer. But it does not ap-
pear that there is any moral couched under it,
any more than under moll of the old fables, which
have been received as truths in ignorant ages.
It, however, was not injudicioully introduced,
as ferving to exprefs the deteftation entertained
here againft cannibals. And yet, it appears pro-
baole, from fome qircumftances, that the natives
of thefe ides formerly fed upon human tlflhj*
Upon
110 a VOYACE TO THEY
Upon afkingOmai a few queftions upon thisfub-
je6t, he refolutely denied it ; though, at the fame
time, he related a fadt within his own knowledge,
■which almoft eftablifhes fuch a conjecture.
When the Bolabola men defeated thofe of
Huaheine, many of his kinfmen were (lain; but
a relation of his had an opportunity of being re-
venged, when the people of Bolabola. were word-
ed in their turn ; and, cutting a piece of flerti
from the thigh of one of his enemies, he broiled
and devoured it. The offering made to the
chief, of the eye of the. perfon facrificed, appears
to be a veftige of a cuftom that once exifted to a
greater extent.
The principal charadteriftics of the fovereign,
are, the being inverted with the maro, the pre-
siding at human facrifices, and the blowing of
the conch-fhell. On hearing the latter, every
fubjedt is obliged to bring food, in proportion to
his circumftances, to his royal refidence. Their
veneration for his name, on fome occafions, they
carry to a moft extravagant height. When he
accedes to th emaro, if any words in the language
are found to have a relemblance to it in found,
they are immediately changed for others; and,
if any man fhould be prefumptuous enough to
continue the ufe of thofe words, not only he, but
hjs whole family, are put to death.
A fimilar fate attends all thofe who fliall dare
to apply the facred name of the fovereign to any
4 animal;
PACIFIC OCEAN.
Ill
animal. Whence Omai, when in England, ex-
preffed his indignation, that the names of prince
or princefs Ihould be given to our dogs or horfes.
But though death is the punifhment for taking
this liberty with the name of the fovereign, abufe
againll his government is only punilhed with the
forfeiture of land and houfes.
The fovereign never deigns to enter the habi-
tation of any of his fubjedls; in every dillridt,
where he vifits, he has houfes belonging to him-
lelf. And if, by accident, he fhould ever be
obliged to deviate from this rule, the habitation
thus honoured with his prefence, together with
its furniture, is entirely burnt. When prefenr,
his fubjedls uncover to him as low as the waift ;
and, w'hen he is at any particular place, a pole,
with a piece of cloth affixed to it, is fet up in
dome confpicuous part near, on which the fame
honours are bellowed. To the firft part of this
ceremony his brothers are entitled; but the wo-
men only uncover to the royal females.
They are even fuperftitious in refpedt to their
fovereign, and elleem his perfon as almoft facred.
To thefe circumftances, perhaps, he is indebted
for the quiet polfeffion of his dominions. Even
the people of Tiaraboo admit his claim to the
lame honours, though they elleem their own chief
as. more powerful, and affiert that, fhould the
reigning family become extindl, he would fucceed
to the government of the whole ifland.
This
I 12
A VOYAGE TO Trf£
This indeed is probable, as Waheiadooa, ex-
clufive of Tiaraboo, poifeffes many diftricts of
Opooreanoo. The extent of his territories is,
therefore, almoft equal to thofe of Otoo ; and his
part of the ifiand is more populous and fertile.
His fubjeds, too, have fhewn their fuperiority,
by frequently defeating thofe of Otaheite-nooe,
whom they hold in a contemptible light, as war-
riors ; and over whom they might be eafily vic-
torious, if their chief fhould be inclined to put it
to the teft.
The people, exclufive of the Eree de hoi, and
his family, are claffed in the following order.
The Frees, or powerful chiefs ; the Manahoone ,
or vaflals ; and the Teou , or Tout on, fervants or
(laves. The men, agreeably to the regular infti-
tution, conned themfelves with women of their
refpedive ranks ; but if with one of an inferior
clafs, and fhe brings forth a child, it is not only
preferved, but is entitled to the rank of the fa-
ther ; unlefs he fhould happen to be an Eree , in
which cafe the child is killed.
If a woman of condition permits a man of in-
ferior rank to officiate as a hufband, the children
they produce are alio killed. And if a Teou be
deteded in an intrigue with a female of the royal
family, he is punifhed with death. The fon of
the Eree de hoi , at his birth, fucceeds his father
in titles and honours; but, if he has no children,
the government devolves to the brother at his
death.
pacific o c e a u,
113
death. Poffefllqns, in other families, defcend to
the eldeft fon, who is, neverthelefs, obliged to
fupport his brothers and fillers, and allow them
houfes on his effates.
Otaheite is divided into feveral diftricffs, the
boundaries of which are generally rivulets or low
hills ; but the fubdivifions, by which particular
property is afcertained, are pointed out by large
Hones which have continued from generation to
generation. Quarrels are fometimes produced,
by the removal of thefe Hones, which are decided
by battle ; each party claiming the affiffance of
his friends. But, upon a complaint being pro-
perly made to the Eree de hoi , he determines the
difference in an amicable manner.-
Thefe offences, however, are not common ;
and property feems to be as fecure here, from long
cuftom, as from the fevereff laws in other coun-
tries. It is an effablifhed practice among them,
that crimes which are not of a general nature,
are left to be punifhed by the party who is in-
jured, fuppofing that he will decide as equitably
as a perfon totally unconcerned : and, long cuf-
tom having allotted certain punifhments for cer-
tain crimes, he may inflift them, without being
amenable to any one. If, for inffance, any per ,
fon be detected Healing, which is ufually done in
the night, the owner of the goods Holen may kill
the thief immediately. But they leldom inflicff fo
fevere a punifhment, unlefs the property taken is
Vol, II.— — n° 8. I very
114 A VOYAfcE TO TV If
very valuable ; fuch as plaited hair and bi'eafl-
plates. When only cloth, or hogs, are ftolen,
and the robber efcapes, if, upon his being after-
wards difcovered, he engages to return the fame
number of hogs, and pieces of cloth, he is ac-
quitted of the offence ; or, at moft, receives a
flight beating.
If, in a quarrel, one perfon fliould kill another,
the friends of the deceafed attack the furvivor
and his adherents. If they are vittorious, they
take poffeflion of the houfe and property of the
other party j but, if they are vanquifhed, the re-
verfe takes place. Should a Manahoone kill the
flave of a chief, the latter feizes the property of
the former, who flies the country. A few months
after, he returns, and, finding his flock of hogs
increafed, makes a large prefent of thefe, and
other valuable articles, to the Toutou's mafter,
who generally conflders it as a compenfation, and
fuffers him to repoffefs his premifes. But, it is
not furprizing that the killing of a man fliould
be confldered as fo trifling an offence, among a
people who do not think it a crime to murder
their own children. On converfing with them
concerning fuch inflances of unnatural cruelty,
and afldng them if their chiefs were not offend-
ed, and did not punifli them ; they faid the chief
had no right to interfere in fuch cafes, every one
being at liberty to do what he pleated with his
own child.’
3
Though
PACIFIC OCEAN. II5
Though the people, their cuftoms and man-
ners, and the productions of the iflands in the
neighbourhood, may, in general, be confidered
the fame as at Otaheite, yet there are a few diffe-
rences. In the little ifland Mataia, or Ofnaburgh
Ifland, which lies twenty leagues eaftof Otaheite,
is fpoken a different dialed from that of Otaheite.
T he men of Mataia alfo wear long hair; and, pre-
vious to their fighting, cover their arm with fome-
thing befet with fharks teeth, and their bodies
, with a fkin of fifhes, not unlike fhagreen. They
are likewife ornamented withpolifhed pearl fhells,
which make a refulgent glittering in the fun ; and
**hey have a very large one before, which covers
them like a fhield.
In the language of Otaheite, there are many
words and phrafes very different from rhofe of
the i (lands to the weftward of it. It is remark-
able for producing, in great abundance, that de-
licious fruit which we call apples, which are not
to be found in any of the others, except Eimeo,
It alfo produces an odoriferous wood, called eahoi,
which is much efteemed at the other ifles. Hua-
heine and Eimeo produce more yams than the
other iflands; and, upon the hills at Mourooa, a
particular bird is found, which is highly valued
for its white feathers.
Befides the number or clufter of iflands, ex-
tending fiom Mataia to Mourooa, we were in-
formed by the people at Otaheite, that there was
I 2 a low
A VOYAGE TO THE
Il6
a low uninhabited ifland, called Mopceha ; and
alfo feveral low iflands, to the north eaftward, at
the diftance of about two days fail with a fair
wind.
At Mataeeva, it is faid to be cuftomary, for
men to prefent their daughters to ftrangers who
vifit that ifland. The pairs, however, mull lie
near each other for the fpace of five nights, with-
out prefuming to take any liberties. On the fixth
evening, the father entertains his gueft with food,
and orders the daughter to receive him, that
night, as her hufband. Though the bed-fellow
be ever fo difagreeable to the ftranger, he mud
not dare to exprefs the leaft diflike ; for that is .
an unpardonable affront, and punifhable with
death. Forty men of Bolabola, whom curiofity
had incited to go to Mataeeva, were treated in
this manner i one of them having declared his
averfion to the female who fell to Ins lot, in the
hearing of a boy, who mentioned it to the father.
Fired with this information, the Mataeevans fell
upon them ; but the Bolabolans killed thrice
their own number, though with the lofs of the
whole party except five. Thefe, at firft, conceal-
ed themfelves in the woods, and afterwards ef-
fected their efcape in a canoe.
The low ifles are, perhaps, the fartheft navi-
gation performed by the inhabitants of Otaheite,
and the Society Iflands. Monfieur de Bougain-
ville is certainly in an error, when he fays, “ 1 hcle
people
PACIFIC OCEAN.
117
people fometimes navigate at the diftance of more
than three hundred leagues For it is deemed
a fort of prodigy, that a canoe, which was once
driven from Otaheite in a ftorm, fhould have ar-
rived at Mopeeha, though dire&ly to leeward, at
no great diftance. Their knowledge of diftant
iflands, is merely traditional; communicated to
them by the natives of thofe iflands, who have
been accidentally driven upon their coafts.
CHAP. X.
Prof edition of our Voyage , after our Departure from
the Society Ifles — Chrijimas If and difcovered —
Supplies of Fifty and Turtle — Solar Eclipfe —
Difirefs of two Seamen who had loft their IV ay —
Singular Mode of refrefhing himfelf prabiifed by
one of thefe Stragglers — Infcription left in a Bot-
tle— Soil of the Jfland defer ibed — Trees and Plants
— Birds , and other Animals — Further Particu-
lars refpe cling Chriftmas Ifland.
» ’
UPON our quitting Bolabola, and taking
leave of the Society Iflands, on Monday
tne 8th of December, we fleered to the north-
ward, with the wind between north-eafl and eaft;
* Bougainville’s Voyage Autour du Monde, p. 228.
I 3 feared
1 18
A VOYAGE TO THE
lcarce ever having it in the fou,th-eafi: point, till
after we had crofied the equator. Though a year
and five months had now elapfed fince our depar-
ture from England, during which period we had
not been, upon the whole, unprofitably employed.
Captain Cook was fenfible, that, with rcfpefb to
the principal objedt of his inftructions, our voyage
might be confidered, at this time, as only at its
commencement ; and, therefore, his attention to
whatever might contribute towards ourfafety and
final fuccefs, was now to be exerted as it were
anew. He had with this view examined into the
ftate of our provifions at the ifiands we had laft
vifited ; and having now, on leaving them, pro-
ceeded beyond the extent of his former difco-
veries, he ordered an accurate furvey to be taken
of all the llores that were in each fhip, that, by-
being fully informed of the quantity and condi-
tion of every article, he might know how to ufe.
them to the greateft advantage.
Before we quitted the Society Idles, we had
taken every opportunity of inquiring of the na-
tives, whether there were any illands fituate in a
northerly or norih-wefterly direction from them;
but it did not appear that they knew of any : nor
did we meet with any thing by which the vicinity
of land was indicated, till we began, about the
latitude of 8° fouth, to fee boobies, men-of-war
birds, terns, trc.pic-birds, and a few other forts.
Our longitude, at this time, was 205" eaft. In
pacific ocean.
t
the night between the 22d and 23d, we eroded
the equinoctial line 5 and on the 24th, foon after
day-break, we difcovered land bearing north-eaft
by eaft. It was found, upon our making a nearer
approach to it, to be one of thole low ldands
which are fo frequently met with in this ocean
between the tropics ; that is, a narrow bank of
land that enclofes the fea within. We obferved
fonae cocoa-nut trees in two or three places ; but
the land in general had a very fteril afpect. At
twelve o'clock it was about four miles diflant.
On the weftern fide we found the depth of water
to be from forty to fourteen fathoms, oyer a
landy bottom.
Captain Cook being of opinion that this ifland
would prove a convenient place for procuring
turtle, refolved to anchor here. We accordingly
dropped our anchors in thirty fathoms water;
and a boat was immediately difpatched to fearch
for a commodious landing-place. When fhe re-
turned, the officer who had been employed in this
learch, reported, that he found no place where a
boat could land; but that fiffi greatly abounded
in the fhoal-water, without the breakers. Early
$he next morning, which was Chriftmas-day, two
boats were fent, one from each ffiip, to examine
more accurately whether it was practicable to
land ; and, at the fame time, two others were or-
dered out, to fiffi at a grappling near the ffiore.
Thefe lad returned about eight, with as many fifil
I 4
1,2.0 A VOYAGE TO THE
as weighed upwards of two hundred pounds. En-
couraged by this fuccefs, the Commodore dis-
patched them again after breakfaft; and he then
went himfelf in another boat, to view the coaft,
and attempt landing, which, however, he found
to be impradticable. The two boats which had
been fent out on the fame learch, returned about
. twelve o’clock ; and the matter, who was in that
. belonging to the Refolution, reported to Captain
Cook, that, about four or five miles to the north-
ward, there being a break in the land, and a chan-
nel into the lagoon, there was confequently a
proper place for landing ; and that he had found
off this entrance the fame foundings as we had
where we now were ftationed. In confequence
of this report we weighed, and, after tv/o or three
trips, anchored again over a bottom of fine dark
fand, before a little ifland lying at the entrance of
the lagoon.
On Friday the 26th, in the morning, the Com-
modore ordered Captain Clerke to fend out a
boat, with an officer in it, to the fouth-eafl part
of the lagoon, in quell: of turtle; and went him-
felf with Mr. King, each in a boat, to the north-
eaft part. It was his intention to have gone ta
the eaflern extremity; but the wind not permit-
ting it, he and Mr. King landed more to leeward,
on a fandy flat, where they caught one turtle,
which was the only one they faw in the lagoon.
They waded through the water to an ifland, where
they
PACIFIC OCEAN.
121
they found nothing but a few birds. Captain
Cook, leaving Mr. King here to obferve the fun’s
meridian altitude, proceeded to the land that
bounds the fea towards the north-weft, which he
found even more barren than the laft-mentioned
ifle ; but walking over to the fea-coaft, he obferved
five turtles clofe to the fhore, one of which he
caught : he then returned on board, as did Mr.
King foon afterwards. Though fo few turtles
were obferved by thefe two gentlemen, we did
not defpair of a fupply ; for fome of the officers of
the Difcovery, who had been afhore to the fouth-
ward of the channel leading into the lagoon, had
had more fuccefs, and caught feveral.
The next morning, the cutter and pinnace were
difpatched, under the command of Mr. King,
to the fouth-eaft part of the ifland, within the la-
goon, to catch turtle; and the fmall cutter was
fent towards the north for the fame purpofe. Some
of Captain Clerke’s people having been on fhore
all night, had been fo fortunate as to turn up-
wards of forty turtles on the fand, which were
this day brought on board ; and, in the courfe of
the afternoon, the party detached to the north-
ward returned with half a dozen; and being fent
back again, continued there till we departed from
the ifland, having, upon the whole, pretty good
fuccefs. The day following (the 28th) Captain
Cook, accompanied by Mr. Bayly, landed on
the ifland fituate between the two channels into
the
122
A VOyACf TO THE
the lagoon, to prepare the tclefcopes for obferving
the folar eclipfe thp.t was to happen on the 30th,
Towards npon, Mr. King returned with one boat,
and eight turtles ; feven being left behind to be
brought by the other boat, whole people were
occupied in catching more ; and, in the evening,
the fame boat conveyed them provifons and
water. Mr. Williamfon now went to luperintend
this bufinefs in the room of Mr. King, who re-
mained on board, in order to attend the obfer-
vation of the eclipfe. d he next day, the two
boats, ladep with turtle, were fent back to the
flrip by Mr. Williamfon, who, at the fame time,
in a melfage to Captain Cook, requefted, that the
boats might be ordered round by lea, as he had
difcovered a landing-place on the fouth-eaft fide
of the illand, where the greateft numbers of turtle
were caught ; fo that, by difpatching the boats
thither, the trouble of carrying them over the (
land (as had hitherto been done) to the infide of
the lagoon, would be fuved. This advice was
followed.
On Tuefday the 30th, Captain Cook, and
Me firs. King and Bayly, repaired in the morn-
ing to the fmall illand above mentioned, to ob-
ferve the eclipfe of the fun. The Iky was over- _
call at times ; but it was clear when the eclipie
ended. In the afternoon, the party who had been
employed in catching turtle at the foufh-eaftero
part of the illand, returned on board, except a
* failor
r A c I F I C OCEAN. 3 2 J
faiior belonging to Captain Clerke’s fliip, who
had been miffing for two days. At firft, there
were nvo men who had loll their way ■, but hap-*
pening to difagree with refpect to the track that
was mod likely to bring them to their compa-
nions, they had Separated s and one of them
found means to rejoin the party, after an abfence
pf twenty-four hours, during which he had expe-
rienced great diftrefs. There being no freffi
water in the whole ifland, and not one cocoa-nut
tree in that part of it, he, in order to allay his
third, had recourfe to the extraordinary expedient
of drinking the blood of turtle, which he killed
for that purpofe. His method of refrefhing him-
felf, when fatigued, was equally lingular, though
he faid he felt the good effeds of it : he undreffed
himfelf, and lay down in the fhallow water on the
beach for fome time.
How thefe two men had contrived to lofe their
*
way, was a matter of adonifhment. The land
over which their journey lay, from the fea-coad
to the lagoon, where the boats were dationed, did
not exceed three miles acrofs s nor was there any
thing that could impede their views for the coun-
try was level, with a few ffirubs difperfed about
its and, from many parts, the mads of our veffiels
coijld be eafily difeerned. This, however, was a
rule of direction which they did not think of s nor
did they recoiled in what part of the ifland the
fhips lay at anchor s and they were totally at a
lofs
124
A VOYAGE TO THE
lofs how to get back to them,, or to the party they
had fo carelefsly draggled from. Confidering
what drange people the generality of failors are,
while on fhore, we might, indead of being much
furprized that thefe two fliould thus lofe them-
felves, rather wonder that no more of the party
were miffing.
Captain Clerke was no fooner informed that one
of the dragglers was dill in this difagreeable fitu-
atfoii, than he detached a party in fearch of him ;
but neither the man nor the party having re -
turned, the next morning the Commodore ordered
two boats into the lagoon, to profecute the fearch
by different tracks. In a fhort time after. Cap-
tain Clerke’s detachment returned, with their
lod companion ; in confequence of which the
boats difpatched into the lagoon were called back
by fignal. This man’s didrefs mud have been
far greater than that of the other draggler ; not
only as he had been lod a longer time, but as lie
was too delicate to drink turtle’s blood.
Having fome yams and cocoa-nuts on board,
in a date of vegetation, we planted them, by
Captain Cook’s order, on the fmall ifland where
he had obferved the late eclipfe; and fome feeds
of melons were fown in another place. The
Captain alfo lefc on that little ifle a bottle, con-
taining the following infcription :
Georgius Ter tins, Rex , 31 Decembris , 1777.
C Rejolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.
j. aves £ Dijcovery3 Car. Clerke , Pr,
On
PACIFIC OCEAN. 125
On Thurfday the' ift of January, 1778, the
Commodore fent out feveral boats to bring on
board our different parties employed alhore, with
the turtle which they had caught. It being late
before this bufinefs was completed, he thought
proper to defer failing till the next morning. We
procured at this ifland, for both Ihips, about three
hundred turtles, which weighed, one with another,
about ninety pounds : they were all of the green
fort, and, perhaps, not inferior in goodnefs to any
in the world. We alfo caught, with hook and
line, a great quantity of filh, principally confift-
ing of cavallies, fnappers, and a few rock-fifh of
two fpecies, one with whitifti ftreaks fcattered
about, and the other with numerous blue fpots.
The foil of this ifland (to which Captain Cook
gave the name of Chriftmas Ifland, as we kept
that feftival here} is, in fome places, light and
blackifh, compofed of land, the dung of birds,
and rotten vegetables. In other parts, it is
formed of broken coral-ftones, decayed Ihells,
and other marine productions. Thefe are depo-
fited in long, narrow ridges, lying parallel with
the fea-coaft ; and mu ft have been thrown up by
the waves, though they do not reach, at prefent,
within a mile of fome of thefe places. This
, feems to prove inconteftabiy, that the ifland has
been produced by different acceflions from the
fea, and is in a Hate of augmentation ; the broken
pieces of coral, and likewife many of the fhells,
6 . being
i26 a voyage to the
being too large and heavy to have been brought
from the beach by any birds to the places where
they are now lying. W e could not find any where
a drop of frefh water, though w'e frequently dug
for it. We met with feveral ponds of fait water,,
which, as they had novifible communication with
the iea, were probably filled by the water filtrating
through the fand during the time of high tides.
One of the men who loft their way found fomc
lalt on the fouth-eaftern part of the ifiand. We
could not difcover the fmalleft traces of any human
creature having ever been here before us } and,
indeed, fhould any one be accidentally driven on
the ifiand, or left there, he would hardly be abld
to prolong his exiftence. For, though there are
birds and fifh in abundance, there are no vifible
means of allaying third;, nor any vegetable that
would ferve as a fubftitute for bread, or correct
the bad effects of an animal diet. On the few
cocoa-nut trees upon the ifiand, we found very
little fruit, and that little not good.
A few low trees were obferved in feme patts^
befides feveral fmall flirubs and plants, which
grew in a very languid manner. We found a fort
of purfiain, a fpecies of fida or Indian mallow^
and another plant that feemed, from its leaves, to
be a mejembryanthemum ; with two forts of grafs;
Under the low trees Fat vaft numbers of a new
fpepies of tern, or egg-bird, black above, and
white below, having a white arch on the fore-
' . head.
* A e I I C OCEAN.
la?
head. Thefe birds are fomewhat larger than the
common noddy *, their1 eggs afe bluifh, and
fbeckled with black. There were likewife many
common boobies; a fort greatly refembling a
gannet; and a chocolate-coloured fpecies, with a
white belly. Men-of-war birds, curlews, plovers,
tropic-birds, petrels, &c. are alfo to be Teen here.
We faw feveral rats, finaller than our’s. There
were numbers of land-crabs, and fmall lizards.
Chriftmas Ifland is fuppofed by Captain Cook
to be between fifteen and twenty leagues in cir-
cuit. Its form is femi-circular ; or like the moon
in her laft quarter, the two horns being the north
and fouth points. The weft fide, or the fmall
ifland fituate at the entrance into the lagoon, lies
in the ‘longitude of ioi° 30' eaft, and in the lati-
tude of i° 59' north.
Like moft of the other ifles in this ocean,
Chriftmas Ifland is furrounded by a reef of coral
rock, extending but a little way from the fhore ;
and further out than this reef, on the weftern
fide, is a bank of fand, which extends a mile into
the fea. There is good anchorage on this bank,
in any depth between eighteen and thirty fathoms.
During our continuance here, the wind generally
blew a frefh gale at eaft by fouth, or eaft ; and we
had conftantly a great fvvell from the northward,
which broke on the reef in a very violent furf.
C II A P.
A VOYACE T O THE
Il3
CHAP. XI.
Three IJlands difcovered — The Inhabitants of Alooi
approach us in their Canoes — Their Perfons de-
fer i bed — Some of them venture on board — Their
Amazement on that Occafion — Precautions againjl
importing the Venereal Difeafe into the IJland —
One of the Natives killed — The Ships eaft An -
chor — The Commodore’’ s Reception on landing —
His Excurfion into the Country , with Meffrs.
Webber and Anderfon — Refer ip tion of a Moral
and its Obelifk — The Cujlom of offering hu-
man Victims prevalent among thefe People — •
Curious feathered Cloaks and Caps — The Refo-
lution driven from Atooi Road — The Ifle of Onee-
heow vifted — Some of our People are detained on
Shore — Animals and Seeds left at Oneebeow —
Cufioms of the Natives — The Ships proceed to the
northward.
WEIGHING anchor at day-break, on.
Friday the 2d of January, 1778, we re-
fumed our northerly courfe, with a gentle breeze
at eaft, and eaft-fouth-eaft, which continued till
we arrived in the latitude of 70 45' north, and
the longitude of 205° eaft, where we had a day of
perfed calm. A north-eaft-by-eaft wind then
fucceeded, which blew faintly at firft, but freihen-
ed as we proceeded northward. We daily ob-
ferved Tropic birds, men of war birds, boobies,
&c.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
129
&c. and between the latitude of io° and 1 1° north,
we faw feveral turtles. Though all thefe are
confidercd as figns of the proximity of land* we
difcovered none till early in the morning of Sun-
day the 1 8th, when an ifland appeared, bearing
north-eaft-by-eaft. Not long . after, more land
was feen, which bore north, and was totally de-
tached from the former. At noon, the firft was
fuppofed to be eight or nine leagues diftant.
Our longitude, at this time, was 200° 41' eafl,
and our latitude, 2i° .i2/ north. The next day,
at fun-rife, the ifland firft feen bore eafl, at the
diftance of feveral leagues. Not being able to
reach this, we fhaped our courfe for the other;
and foon after, obferved a third ifland, bearing
weft-north-weft.
We had now a fine breeze at eaft-by-north ;
and, at noon, the fecond ifland, named Atooi,
for the eafl; end of which we were fleering, was
about two leagues diftant. As we made a nearer
approach, many of the inhabitants put off from
the fliore in their canoes, and very readily came
along-fide the lhips. We were agreeably fur-
prized to find, that they fpoke a dialedl of the
Otaheitean language. They could not be pre-
vailed upon by any entreaties to come on board.
Captain Cook tied fome brafs medals to a rope,
which he gave to thofe who were in one of the
canoes ; and they, in return, faftened fome
mackarel to the rope, by way of equivalent. This
\ ql. II.— 9* K.
1^0 A VOYAGE TO THE
was repeated ; and fome fmall nails, or pieces of
iron, were given them ; for which they gave in
exchange fome more fifh, and a fweet potatoe ; a
fure indication of their having fome notion of
bartering, or, at lead, of returning one prefent
for another. One of them even offered for fale
the piece of fluff which he wore about his waift.
Thefe people did not exceed the ordinary fize,
and were ftoutly made. Their complexion was
brown ; and though there appeared to be little
difference in the caffs of their colour, there was
a confiderable variation in their features. Moll
of them had their hair cropped rather fhort ;
a few had it tied in a bunch at the top of the
head; and others fuffered it to flow loofe. It
feemed to be naturally black ; but the generality
of them had flained it with fome fluff which
communicated to it a brownifh colour. Moll of
them had pretty long beards. They had no or-
naments about their perfons, nor did we obferve
that they had their ears perforated. Some of them
were tatooed on the hands, or near the groin ;
and the pieces of cloth, which were worn by them
round their middle, were curioufly coloured with
white, black, and red. They feemed to be mild
and good-natured; and were furnifhed with no
arms of any kind, except fome fmall Hones, which
they had manifeflly brought for their own de-
fence; and thefe they threw into the fea when
they found that there was no occafion for them.
As
pacific ocean.
*3 1
As we perceived no figiis of an anchoring-place
at this eaftern extremity of the ifland, we bore
away to leeward, and ranged along the fouth-
eaft fide, at the diftance of about a mile and a
half from the Ihore. The canoes left us when
we made fail ; but others came off, as we pro-
ceeded along the coafl, and brought with them
pigs and fome excellent potatoes, which they ex-
changed for whatever we offered to them ; and
feveral fmall pigs were purchafed by us for a fix-
penny nail. We paffed divers villages; fome of
which were fituated near the fea, and others fur-
ther up the country. The inhabitants of all of
them came in crowds to the Ihore, and affembled
on the elevated places to take a view of the fhips.
On this fide of the ifland the land rifes in a gen-
tle acclivity from the fea to the bottom of the
mountains, which occupy the central part of the
country, except at one place near the eaftern
end, there they rife immediately from the fea :
they feemed to be compofed of done, or rocks
lying in horizontal Jlrata. We obferved a few
trees about the villages ; near which we could
alfo difeern feveral plantations of fugar-canes
and plantains. We continued to found, but
did not ftrike ground with a line of fifty fa-
thoms, till we came abreaft of a low point, near
the north-weft extremity of the ifland, where we
found from twelve to fourteen fathoms, over a
rocky bottom. Having palled this point, we
K 2 met
132
A VOYAGE TO THE
met with twenty fathoms, then fixteen, twelve,
and at laft five, over a bottom of fand. We
fpent the night in Handing off and on ; and, the
next morning, flood in for the land. We were
met by feveral canoes fille.d with natives, fome
of whom ventured to come on board.
None of the inhabitants we ever met with be-
fore in any other ifland or country, were fo aflo-
nifhed as thefe people were, upon entering a fhip.
'1 heir eyes were inceffantly roving from one ob-
ject to another ; and the wildnefs of their looks
and geftures, fully indicated their perfect igno-
rance with refpecl to every thing they fawj and
flrongly marked to us, that they had never, till
the prefent time, been vifited by Europeans, nor
been acquainted with any of our commodities,
except iron. This metal, however, they had in
all probability only heard of, or had perhaps
known it in fome inconfiderable quantity, brought
to them at a remote period. They afked for it by
the appellation of hamaite , referring probably to
fome inflrument, in making which iron could
be ferviceably employed ■, for they applied thac
name to the blade of a knife, though they had
no idea of that particular inflrument, which they
could not even handle properly. They alfo fre-
quently called iron by the name of toe, which
fiernifies a hatchet, or adze. On our fhewingthem
fome beads, they firfl afked what they were ; and
then, whether they were to be eaten. But, on
their
PACIFIC OCEAN.
their being informed, that they were to be hung
in their ears, they rejedted them as ufelefs. They
■were equally indifferent with regard to a looking-
glafs that we offered them, and returned it for a
Jimilar reafon. China cups, plates of earthen
ware, and other things of that kind, were fo new
to them, that they afked whether they were made
of wood. They were, in many refpedts, natu-
rally polite ; or, at leaft, cautious of giving
offence. Some of them, juft before their ventur-
ing on board, repeated a long prayer ; and others,
afterwards, fung and made various motions with
their hands. On their firft entering the fhip,
they attempted to fteal every thing that they could
lay hands on, or rather to take it openly, as if
they fuppofed that we either lhould not refent
fuch behaviour, or not hinder it. But we foon
convinced them of their error ; and when they
oblerved that we kept a watchful eye over them,
they became lefs adtive in appropriating to them-
felves what did not belong to them.
About nine o’clock Captain Cook difpatched
Lieutenant Williamfon, with three armed boats,
to look out for a proper landing-place, and for
frelh water; with orders, that, if he lhould find
it neceffary to land in fearch of the latter, he
lhould not allow more than one man to accom-
pany him out of the boats. The very moment
they were putting off from the fhip, one of the
jfianders having ftolen a cleaver* leaped over-
K 3 board,
’34
A VOYAGE TO THE
board, got into his canoe, and haftened towards
the fhore, while the boats purfued him in vain.
The reafon of the Commodore’s order that the
crews of the boats fhould not go on fhore, was,
that he might prevent, if poffible, the importa-
tion of a dangerous difeafe into this ifiand, which
he knew fome of our people now laboured under,
and which we, unfortunately, had already com-
municated to other iflands in this ocean. From
the fame motive, he commanded that all female
vifitants fhould be excluded from both the fhips.
Many perfons of this fex had come off in the ca-
noes. Their features, complexion, and ffature,
were not very different from thofe of the men ;
and though their countenances were extremely
open and agreeable, few traces of delicacy were
vifible either in their faces, or other proportions.
The only difference in their drefs, was their hav-
ing a piece of cloth about their bodies, reach-
ing from near the middle almoft down to the
knees, inftead of the maro worn by the male-fex.
They were as much inclined to favour us with
their company on board, as fome of the men
were; but the Commodore was extremely de-
firous of preventing all connexion, which might,
in all probability, convey an irreparable injury
to themfelves, and afterwards, through their
means, to the whole nation. Another pru-
dent precaution was taken, by ftri&ly enjoin-
ing, that no perfon capable of communicat-
PACIFIC OCEAN.
13$
ing the infection fhould be fent upon duty out of
the lhips.
Captain Cook had paid equal attention to the
fame objeCt, when he firft vifited the Friendly
Ides; but he afterwards found, to his great re-
gret, that his endeavours had not fucceeded.
And there is reafon to apprehend, that this will
conftantly be the cafe, in fuch voyages as ours,
whenever it is neceffary that many people fliould
be employed on fhore. The opportunities and-
incitements to an amorous intercourfe are then too
numerous to be effectually guarded againft j and
however confident a commander may be of the
health of his men, he is often undeceived too late.
Among a number of men, there are in general
to be found fome, who, out of bafhfulnefs, en-
deavour to conceal their having any venereal
fymptoms : and there are others fo profligate and
abandoned, as not to care to whom they com-
municate this difeafe. We had an inftance of
the laft remark at Tongataboo, in the Gunner of
the Difcovery, who had been ftationed on fhore.
After knowing that he had contracted this dis-
order, he continued to have connections with dif-
ferent women, who were fuppofed to have been,
till that time, free from any infection. His com-
panions remonftrated to him on this fcandalous
behaviour without effeCt, till Captain Clerk e,
being informed of fuch a dangerous irregularity
of conduCt, ordered him to repair on board.
K 4 Waiting
o
13^ A VOYAGE TO THE
Waiting for the return of our boats, which had
been fent out to reconnoitre the coaft, we flood
off and on with the fhips. Towards mid-day,
Mr. Williamfon came back, and reported, that
he had obferved behind a beach, near one of the
villages, a large pond, which was faid by the na-
tives to contain frefh water ; and that there was
tolerable anchoring-ground before it. He alfo
mentioned, that he had made an attempt to land
in another place, but was prevented by the iflan-
ders, who, coming down in great numbers to
the boats, endeavoured to take away the oars,
mufquets, and every other article which they
could lay hold of ; and crowded fo thick upon
him and his people, that he was under the necef-
flty of firing, by which one man was killed.
This unfortunate circumftance, however, was
not known to Captain Cook till after we had quit-
ted the ifland fo that all his meafures were di-
rected as if no affair of that kind had happened.
Mr. Williamfon informed him, that, as foon as
the man fell, he was taken up and carried off by
his countrymen, who then retired from the boats $
but ftill they made fignals for our people to land,
y/hich they declined. It did not appear, that
the natives had the lead* intention of killing, or
even hurting, any of Mr. Williamfon’s party j
^>ut they feemed to have been excited by curio-
flty alone, to get from them what they had, be-
in*
PACIFIC OCEAN.
137
5ng prepared to give, in return, any thing that
appertained to themfelves.
Captain Cook then difpatched one of the boats
to lie in the bed anchoring-ground ; and when
ilie had gained this ftation, he bore down with
the ihips, and caft anchor in twenty-five fathoms
water, over a fandy bottom. The eaftern point
of the road, which was the low point already men-
tioned, bore fouth 5i°eaft ; the weft point, north
65° weft ; and the village near which the frefh wa-
ter was laid to be, was one mile diftant. The
Ihips being thus ftationed, between three and
four in the afternoon, the Captain went afhore
with three armed boats, and twelve of the ma-
rines, with a view of examining the water, and
trying the difpofition of the inhabitants, who had
affembled in confiderable numbers on a fandy
beach before the village ; behind it was a valley,
in which was the piece of vrater. The moment
he leaped on fhore, all the iflanders fell proftrate
upon their faces, and continued in that pofture
of humiliation, till, by figns, he prevailed on them
to rife. They then prefented to him many fmall
pigs, with plantain-trees, making ufe of nearly
the fame ceremonies which we had leen pra&ifed,
on fimilar occafions, at the Society and other ifles j
and a long oration or prayer being pronounced
by an individual, in which others of the afiem-
bly occafionally joined. Captain Cook iignified
|iis acceptance of their proffered friendfhip, by
bellowing
1^8 A VOYAGE TO THE
bellowing on them, in return, fuch prefents as
he had brought alhore. This introductory bufi-
nefs being ended, he llationed a guard upon the
beach, and was then conduced by fome of the
natives to the water, which he found extremely
good, and fo confiderable, that it might be de-
nominated a lake. After this, he returned on
board, and ifTued orders that preparations fliould
be made for filling our water-cafks in the morn-
ing : at which time he went alhore with fome of
his people, having a party of marines for a guard.
They had no fooner landed, than a trade was
entered into for potatoes and hogs, which the
idanders gave in exchange for nails and pieces of
iron. Far from giving any obfirudion to our
men who were occupied in watering, they even
aflilled them in rolling the cafks to and from the
pool, and performed with alacrity whatever was
required of them. Captain Cook leaving the
command at this ftation to Mr. Williamfon, who
had landed with him, made an excurfion into
the country, up the valley, being accompanied
by Meffrs. Anderfon and Webber, and followed
by a numerous train of natives, one of whom,
who had been very adive in keeping the others
in order, the Captain made choice of as a guide.
This man, from time to time, proclaiming the
approach of our gentlemen, every perfon who
met them, fell prolfrate on the ground, and re-
mained in that humble polition till they had
palled.
pacific ocean.
*39
pafled. This, as we were afterwards informed,
is their method of Ihewing refped to their own
great chiefs.
We had obferved at every village, as we ranged
along the coaft in the Ihips, one or more ele-
vated white objefts, refembling pyramids, or ra-
ther obelifks ; one of which, fuppofed by Cap-
tain Cook to be at leaft fifty feet in height, was
very confpicuous from our anchoring-ftation, and
feemed to be at a fmall diftance up this valley.
To have a nearer view of it, was the principal
motive of our gentlemens’ walk. Their guidewas
acquainted with their defire of being conduced
to it: but it happened to be in fuch a fituation,
that they could not get at it, the pool of water
feparating it from them. However, as there was
another of the fame kind about half a mile dif-
tant, upon their fide of the valley, they fet out
to vifit that. As loon as they reached it, they
perceived that it was fituate in aburying-ground,
or moral , which bore a ftriking refemblance, iri
feveral refpedts, to thofe they had feen at Ota-
heite and other iflands in this ocean. It was an
oblong fpace, of confiderable extent, environed
by a {tone-wall, four or five feet hio-h. The
inclofed fpace was loofely paved j and, at one
end of it, was placed the obelifk or pyramid,
called by the natives henananoo , which was an
exadl model of the larger one that we had dis-
cerned from our fhips. It was about twenty feet
in
14® A VOYAGE TO THE
in height, and four fee t fquare at the bafe. Its
four fides were rormed of final! poles interwoven
with twigs and branches, thus compofing an in-
different wicker-work, hollow within from the
top to the bottom. It appeared to be in a ruin-
ous ftate, and had been originally covered with a
thin greyifh cloth. On each fide of it were long
pieces of wicker-work, termed hereanee , in a con-
dition equally ruinous, with two poles inclining
towards each other at one corner, where fome
plantains were placed on a board, fixed at the
height of about half a dozen feet. This was called
by the iflanders herairemy ; and they faid, that
the fruit was an offering to their deity. Before
the henananoo were feveral pieces of wood, carv-
ed into fome refemblance of human figures.
There was alio a ftone near two feet in height.
Covered with cloth. Adjoining to this, on the
outfide of the moral , was a fmall fhed, which they
denominated hareepahoo ■, and before it there was
a grave, where the remains of a woman had been
depofited.
There was a houfe or Hied, called hemanaa , on
the further fide of the area of the moral : it was
about forty feet in length, ten or eleven feet in
height, and ten in breadth in the middle, but
narrower at each end ; though confiderably
longer, it was lower than their common habita-
tions. Oppofite the entrance into this houfe,
flood two images near three feet high, cut our of
one
j.uujiw'1 111 JLrmyjw
Cedes Tbyape .Octin'o Edition ■
Cooks Joy age , Octavo Edition .
The I.NXIDK nftiii-Hor.SE.lii tlieMOHAI ixi ATOOI
PACIFIC OCEAN. I4I
one piece of wood, with pedeftals : they were faid
to be Eatooa no Veheina , or reprefentations of
goddeftes, and were not very indifferent either
in point of execution or defign. On the head of
one of them was a cylindrical cap, not unlike the
head-drefs at Otaheite, called tomou ; and on that
of the' other, a carved helmet, fomewhat refem-
bling thofe of the ancient warriors ; and both of
them had pieces of cloth faffened about the loins,
and hanging down a confiderable way. There
was alfo, at the fide of each, a piece of carved
wood, with cloth hung on it. Before the pe-
deftals lay a quantity of fern, which had been
placed there at different times. In the middle
of the houfe, and before the images juft defcribed,
was an oblong fpace, inclofed by an edging of
ftone, and covered with fhreds of cloth : this was
the grave of feven chiefs, and was called heneene.
Our gentlemen had already met with fo many
inftances of refemblance, between the morai they
were now vifiting, and thofe of the iflands they
had lately quitted, that they entertained little
doubt in their minds, that the fimilarity exifted
alfo, in the rites here folemmzed, and particularly
m the horrid oblation of human vi&ims. Their
fufpicions were foon confirmed ; for, on one fide
of the entrance into the hemanaa , they obferved
• a fmall fquare place, and another ftill finaller ;
and on afking what thefe were, they were inform-
ed by their conductor, that in one of them was
4 . interred
A VOYAGE TO THE
I4&
interred a man who had been facrificed ; and in
the other, a hog, which had alfo been offered up
to the deity. At no great di dance from thefe,
were three other fquare inclofed places, with two
pieces of carved wood at each of them, and a
heap of fern upon them. Thefe were the graves
of three chiefs ; and before them was an inclofed
fpace, of an oblong figure, called Tangata-taboo
by our gentlemens’ guide, who declared to them,
that three human facrifices, one at the funeral of
each chief, had been there buried.
Every appearance induced the Commodore to
believe, that this inhuman practice was very ge-
neral here. The ifland feemed to abound with
luch places of facrifice as this, at which he was
now prefenr, and which was probably one of the
mod inconfiderable of them ; being much lefs
confpicuous than fome others which we had ob-
ferved as we failed along the coaft, and particu-
larly than that on the oppofite fide of the piece of
water running through this valley; the white py-
ramid of which, in all probability, derived its
colour folely from the confecrated cloth put over
it. In many fpots within this burying- ground,
were planted trees of the morinda citrifolia , and
cordia JebeJUna , befides leveral plants of the eteey
with the leaves of which the hemanaa was thatched.
The journey of our gentlemen to and from
this moral , lay through the plantations. Mod
of the ground was perfectly flat, with ditches in-
terfering
PACIFIC OCEAN.
*4 3
terfefting different parts, and roads that Teemed
to have been raifed to Tome height by art. The
intervening fpaces, in general/ were planted with
taro , which grew with great vigour. There were
feveral fpots where the cloth-mulberry was plant-
ed, in regular rows; this alfo grew vigorouffy.
The cocoa-trees were in a lefs thriving condition,
and were all low; but the plantain-trees, though
not large, made a pretty good appearance. Upon
the whole, the trees that are moil numerous
around this village, are the cordia Jebaftina. The
greatefl: part of it is fituate near the beach, and
confifts of upwards of fixty houfes there; but
there may perhaps be near forty more fcattered
about, towards the moral.
After the Commodore, and Meflrs. Anderfon
and Webber, had carefully examined whatever
was worthy of notice about the moral , and the
latter had taken drawings of it, and of the fur-
rounding country, they returned by a different
route. They found a multitude of people col-
lected at the beach, and a briik trade for fowls,
pigs, and vegetables, going on there, with the
greatefl; order and decorum. At noon. Captain
Cook went on board to dinner, and then fent
Mr. King to take the command of the party on
Ihore. During the afternoon he landed again,
accompanied by Captain Clerke, intending to
make another excurfion up the country: but,
before he could execute this defign, the day was
n
~ too
1 44
A VOYAGE to the
too far advanced; he therefore relinquiflred his
intention for the prefent, and no other opportu-
nity afterwards occurred. Towards fun-fet, he
and his people returned on board, after having
procured, in the courfe of this day, nine tons of
water, and (principally by exchanging nails and
pieces of iron) feventy or eighty pigs, fome fowls,
plantains, potatoes, and taro roots. In this com-
mercial intercourfe, the iflanders deferved our
belt commendations, making no attempts to cheat
us, either along-fide our {hips, or on fhore.
Some of them, indeed, as we have already related,
betrayed at firft a pilfering difpofition ; or, per-
haps, they imagined that they had a right to all
they could lay their hands upon : but they quick-
ly defifted from a conduct, which, we convinced
them, could not be perfevered in with impunity.
Among the various articles which they brought
to barter this day, we were particularly {truck
with a fort of cloak and cap, which, even in more
polifhed countries, might be efteemed elegant.
Thefe cloaks are nearly of the fhape and fize of
the fhort ones worn by the men in Spain, and
by the women in England, tied loofely before,
and reaching to the middle of the back. The
o-round of them is a net-work, with the moft
beautiful red and yellow feathers fo clofely fixed
upon it, that the furface, both in point of fmooth-
nefs and gloffmefs, refembles the richeft velvet.
The method of varying the mixture is very dif-
ferent ;
PACIFIC OCEAN.
145
ferent; fome of them having triangular fpaces
of yellow and red alternately ; others, a fort of
crefcent; while fome were entirely red, except
that they had a broad yellow border. The bril-
liant colours of the feathers, in thofe cloaks that
were new, had a very fine effect. The natives,
at firft, refufed to part with one of thefe cloaks
for any thing that we offered in exchange, de-
manding no lefs a price than one of our mufquets.
They afterwards, however, fuffered us to pur-
chafe fome of them for very large nails. Thofe
of the beft fort were fcarce ; and it is probable,
that they are ufed only on particular occafions.
The caps are made in the form of a helmet,
with the middle part, or creft, frequently of a
hand’s breadth. They fit very clofe upon the
head, and have notches to admit the ears. They
confift of twigs and offers, covered with a net-
work, into which feathers are wrought, as upon
the cloaks, but fomewhat clofer, and lefs diver-
sified; the major part being red, with fome yel-
low, green, or black ftripes, on the ffdes. Thefe
caps, in all probability, complete the drefs, with
the cloaks; for the iflanders appeared, fome-
times, in both tog-ether.
O
We could not conjecture from whence they
obtained fuch a quantity of thefe beautiful fea-
thers ; but we foon procured intelligence refpect-
ing one fort; for they afterwards brought for l'alc
great numbers of fkins of a fmall red fpecies of
Vol. II. nj£. L birds.
J46 A VOYACE TO THE
birds, frequently tied up in bunches of twenty or
upwards, or having a wooden fkewer run through
them. At firft, thofe that were purchafed, con-
fided only of the fkin from behind the wings for-
ward ; but we afterwards obtained many with the
hind part, including the feet and tail. The for-
mer inftantly fuggefted to us the origin of the
fable of the birds of paradife being deftitute of
legs; and fufficiently explained that particular.
The reafon affigned by the inhabitants of Atooi
for the cuftom of cutting off the feet of thefe
birds, is, that by this pradtice they can preferve
them the more eafily, without lofing any part
which they confider as valuable.
The red-bird of this ifland was, according to
Mr. Anderfon, a fpecies of merops, about as large
as a fparrow ; its colour was a beautiful fcarlet,
with the tail and wings black ; and it had an
arched bill, twice as long as the head, which,
with the feet, was of a reddifh hue. The con-
tents of the heads were taken out, as in the birds
of paradife ; but we did not find, that they prac-
tifed any other mode of preferving them, than
dimple drying; for the llcins, though they were
moift, had neither a fmell nor tafte that could
give any reafon for fufpe&ing the ufe of anti-pu-
trefeent fubllances.
On Thurfday the 22d, we had almofl: conti-
nual rain for the whole morning. The wind was
at fouth-eaft, fouth-fouth-eaft, and fouth ; and
t the
PACIFIC OCEAN.
147
the lurf broke fo high upon the fhore, that our
boats were prevented from landing. The Refo-
lution was not in a very fecure fituation, there
being breakers within the length of little more
than two cables from her ftern. The natives,
notwithflanding the furf, ventured out in their
canoes, bringing off to our fhips, hogs and ve-
getables, which they exchanged, as before, for
our commodities. One of their number, who
offered fome fifh-hooks for fale, was obferved to
have a very fmall parcel, fattened to the firing
of one of them, which he carefully feparated, and
referved for himfelf, when he difpofed of the
hook. When afked what it was, he pointed to
his belly, and intimated fomething of its beino-
deadj faying, at the fame time, that it was bad.
He was requefted to open the parcel, which he
did with great reluctance; and we found, that it
contained a fmall thin piece of flefh, which had,
to all appearance, been dried, but was at prefent
wet with fait water. Imagining that it might be
human flefh, we put the queftion to the producer
of it, who anfwered, that the flefh was part of a
min. Another of the i (landers; who flood near
him, was then afked, whether it was a cuftom
among them to eat their enemies who had been
(lain in battle ; and he immediately replied in the
affirmative.
In the afternoon, we had fome intervals of fair
weather. The wind then changed to the eaft
L* 2 and
148
A VOYACE TO T H 1
and north-eaft ; but, towards the evening, it
veered back again to fouth-fouth-eaft. The rain
alfo returning, continued the whole night, but
was not accompanied with much wind. At feven
the next morning, a north-eafterly breeze fpring-
ing up. Captain Cook ordered the anchors of his
fhip to be taken up, with a view of removing
her further out. As foon as the laft anchor was
up, the wind, veering to the eaft, rendered it
neceftary to make all the fail he could, for the
purpofe of clearing the fhore ; fo that, before he
had good fea-room, he was driven confiderably
to leeward. He endeavoured to regain the road ;
but having a ftrong current againft him, and very
little wind, he could not accomplifh that defign.
He therefore difpatched MefTrs. King and Wil-
liamfon alhore, with three boats, to procure water
and refrefhments, fending, at the fame time, an
order to Captain Clerke, to put to fea after him,
if he fhould find that the Refolution was unable
to recover the road.
The Commodore having hopes of finding a
road, or perhaps a harbour, at the weft end of
the ifiand, was the lefs anxious about regaining
his former ftation. But as he had fent the boats
thither, he kept as much as pofiible to wind-
ward ; notwithftanding which, at noon, our fhip
was three leagues to leeward. As we approached
the weft end, we found that the coaft rounded
gradually to the north-eaft, without forming a
,, cove.
PACIFIC OCEAN. 149
cove, or creek, wherein a veftel might be fhel-
tered from the violence of the fwell, which, roll-
ing in from the northward, broke againft the
Ihore in an amazing furl : all hopes, therefore,
of meeting with a harbour here, foon vanifhed.
Many of the natives, in their canoes, followed
us as we Hood out to fea, bartering various arti-
cles. As we were extremely unwilling, notwith-
ftanding the fufpicious circumftance of the pre-
ceding day, to believe that thefe people were
cannibals, we now made fome further enquiries
on this fubjedt. A fmall inftrument of wood,
befet with fhark’s teeth, had been purchafed ;
which, as it refembled the faw or knife made ufe
of by the favages of New-Zealand to difiedt the
bodies of their enemies, was fufpedled by us to
be employed here for the fame purpofe. One of
the iflanders being quellioned on this point, in-
formed us, that the inftrument above-mentioned
ferved the purpofe of cutting out the flefliy part
of the belly, when any perfon was flain. This
explained and confirmed the circumftance before
related, of the man’s pointing to his belly. The
native, however, from whom we now received
this intelligence, being afked whether his coun-
trymen eat the part thus cut out, ftrongly denied
it ; but, when the queftion was repeated, he
lhewed fome degree of apprehenfion, and fwam
off to his canoe. An elderly man, who fat fore-
moft in the canoe, was then afked whether they
L 3 eat
A VOYAGE to the
*5°
cat the fieffi ; and he anfwered in the affirmative.
The queftion being put to him a fecond time,
he again affirmed the fa6t ■, adding, that it was
favoury food.
The boats returned about feven o’clock in the
evening, with a few hogs, fome plantains and
roots, and two tons of water. Mr. King report-
ed to the Commodore, that the iflanders were
very numerous at the watering place, and had
brought great numbers of hogs to barters but
our people had not commodities with them ade-
quate to the purchafe of them all. He alfo men-
tioned, that the furf had run fo very high, that
it was with extreme difficulty our men landed,
and afterwards got back into the boats.
On Saturday the 2.4th, at day-break, we found
that our ffiip had been carried by the currents to
the north-weft and norths fo that the weftern ex-
tremity of Atooi bore eaft, at thediftance of one
league. A northerly breeze fprung up foon after,
and Captain Cook expediting that this would bring
the Difcovery to fea, fteered for Oneeheow, a
neighbouring ifland, which then bore fouth-weft,
with a view of anchoring there. He continued
to fteer for it till paft eleven, at which time he
was at the diftance of about fix miles from it.
But not feeing the Difcovery, he was apprehen-
five left fome ill confequence might arife from
our feparating fo far s he therefore relinquilhed
the defign of vifking Oneeheow for the prefenr.
pacific ocean.
15*
and flood back to Atooi, intending to caft anchor
again in the road, in order to complete our fup-
ply of water. At two o’clock, the northerly-
wind was lucceeded by calms and variable light
airs, which continued till eleven at night. We
ftretched to the fouth-eaft, till early in the morn-
ing of the 25th, when we tacked and flood in for
Atooi road ; and, not long after, we were joined
by the Difcovery. We were utterly unable to
regain the road j and, by the morning of the
29th, the currents had carried us to the weft*
ward, within nine or ten miles of Oneeheow.
Weary with plying fo unfuccefsfully, Captain
Cook laid afide all thoughts of returning to Atooi,
and refumed his intention of paying a vifit to
Oneeheow. With this view, he difpatched the
mafter in a boat, to found along the coaft, and
fearch for a landing-place, and afterwards for
frefh water. In the mean time, the fhips follow-
ed under an cafy fail. The mafter, at his re-
turn, reported, that there was tolerable anchorage
all along the coaft ; and that he had landed in
one place, but could not find any frefh water.
Captain Cook being informed by fome of the
natives, who had come off to the fhips, that frefh
water might be obtained at a village which we
faw at a little diftance, ran down, and caft an-
chor before it, about fix furlongs from the fhore,
the depth of water being twenty-fix fathoms.
The Difcovery anchored at a greater diftance
L 4 from
15- A VOYAGE TO THE
from the fhore, in twenty-three fathoms. The
fouth-eaftern point of Oneeheow bore fouth, 65°
eaft, about one league diftant ; and another ifland
which we had difcovered the preceding night,
named Tahoora, bore fouth, 6i° weft, at the dis-
tance of feven leagues. Before we anchored, fe-
deral. canoes had come off to us, bringing pota-
toes, yams, and fmall pigs, befides mats. The
people who were in them refembled in their per-
fons the inhabitants of Atooi ; and, like them,
were acquainted with the ufe of iron, which they
afked for by the names of toe and hamaite , readily
parting with all their commodities for pieces of
this metal. Some more canoes foon reached our
fhips, after they had come to anchor ■, but the
iflanders who were in thefe had apparently no
other objedt, than to make us a formal vifit.
Many of them came on board, and crouched
down upon the deck ; nor did they quit that
humble pofture, till they were requefted to rife.
Several women, whom they had brought with
them, remained along-fide in the canoes, behav-
ing with much lefs modefty than the females of
Atooi ; and, at intervals, they all joined in a
fong, which, though not very melodious, was
performed in the exadteft concert, by beating time
upon their breafts with their hands. The men
who had come on board did not continue long
with us; and before their departure, fome of
them
PACIFIC OCEAN.
*53
them defired permiffion to lay down locks of their
hair on the deck.
The curious enquiry, whether thefe inlanders
were cannibals, was this day renewed; and the
fubiedt did not arife from any queftions put by us,
but from a circumftance that feemed to remove
all doubt. One of the natives, who wifhed to get
in at the gun-room port, was refufedj and he
then afked, whether we ftiould kill and eat him,
if he fhould come in ? accompanying this queftion
with figns fo expreflive, that we did not entertain
a doubt with refpedt to his meaning. We had
now an opportunity of retorting the queftion as
to this practice ; and a man behind the other, in
the canoe, inftantly replied, that, if we were
killed on fhore, they would not fcruple to eat us :
not that he meant they would deftroy us for that
purpofe, but that their devouring us would be
the confequence of our being at enmity with
them.
Mr. Gore was fent in the afternoon, with three
armed boats, in fearch of the moft commodious
landing-place ; being alfo direifted to look for
frefti water when he Ihould get on fhore. He
returned in the evening, and reported to Captain
Cook, that he had landed at the village above-
mentioned, and had been conducted to a well
about half a mile up the country ; but that the
water which it contained was in too fmall a quan-
tity for our purpofe, and the road that led to it
was
*54
A VOVACE TO THE
was extremely bad. The next day Mr. Gore was
fent afhore again, with a guard, and a party to
trade with the inhabitants for refrefhments. The
Commodore’s intention v/as to have followed foon
afterwards ; and he went from the fhip with that
defign. But the furf had fo greatly increafed by
this time, that he was apprehenfive, if he got
alhore, he lhould not be able to make his way
back again This circumftance really happened
to our people who had landed with Mr. Gore;
for the communication between them and the
{hips, by our own boats, was quickly flopped.
They made a fignal, in the evening, for the boats,
which were accordingly fent ; and, in a fhort time
afterwards, returned with fome good fait and a
few yams. A confiderable quantity of both thefe
articles had been obtained in the courfe of the
day ; but the furf was fo exceedingly high, that
the greateft part of both had been loll in bringing
them off to the boats. The officer and twenty
men, not venturing to run the rifque of coming
off, remained all night on ffiore; by which unfor-
tunate circumftance, the very thing happened
which Captain Cook, as we have already related,
fo eagerly wifhed to prevent, and imagined he had
effectually guarded againft.
The violence of the furf did not deter the na-
tives from coming oft7 in canoes to our fhips.
They brought with them fome refrefhments, for
which we gave them, in exchange, fome nails,
and
I
. PACIFIC OCEAN. 155
and pieces of iron hoops; and we diftributed
among the women in the canoes, many pieces of
ribbon, and fome buttons, as bracelets. Some of
the men had reprefentations of human figures
pundfured upon their breads, and one of them
had a lizard reprefented. Thefe vifitants ac-
quainted us, that there was no chief of this ifland,
but that it was fubje£t to one of the chiefs of
Atooi, whofe name was Teneooneoo. Among
other articles which they now brought off to us,
was a fmall drum, that had a great refemblance to
thofe of Otaheite.
Between ten and eleven o’clock at night, the
wind became foutherly, and the fky feemed to in-
dicate an approaching ftorm. In confequence of
thefe threatening appearances. Captain Cook,
thinking that we were rather too near the fhore,
caufed the anchors to be taken up ; and the fiiips
being carried into forty-two fathoms water, came
to again in that more iecure ftation. This, how-
ever, proved an unnecefiary precaution ; for the
wind, not long after, veering to north-north-eaft,
blew a frefh gale, with fqualls, and violent fhowers
of rain. This weather continued for the whole
fucceeding day, during which the fea ran fo high,
that all communication with our party on fhore
was totally intercepted, and the iflanders them-
felves would not venture out to the fiiips in their
canoes. Towards the evening, the Commodore
fent the Mafter in a boat to the fouth-«aft point
of
1 56 A VOYAGE TO THE
of the ifland, to try whether he could land in
that quarter. He returned with a favourable re-
port ; but it was now too late to fend for our party
till the following morning: fo that they were
obliged to ftay another night on fhore. On the
appearance of day-light, a boat was difpatched
to the fouth-eaft point, with orders to Lieutenant
Gore, that, if he could not embark his people
from the fpot where they at prefent were, he fhould
march them up to the point. The boat being
prevented from getting to the beach, one of the
crew fwam to fhore, and communicated the in-
structions. After the boat had returned. Captain
Cook went himfelf with the launch and pinnace
up to the point, in order to bring off our party
from the land. He took with him three goats,
one of them a male, and the others female ; a
young boar and low of the Englifh breed; and
alfo the feeds of onions, pumpkins, and melons.
He landed, with great eafe, under the weft fide
of the point, where he found his party, in com-
pany with fome of the natives, d o one of thefe,
who affumed fome degree of authority over the
reft, he gave the goats, pigs, and feeds. He in-
tended to have left thefe uleful prefents at Atooi,
if we had not been fo unexpectedly driven from
that illand.
While our people were employed in filling
fome water-calks, from a little ftream which the
late rains had occafioned. Captain Cook made a
fhort
PACIFIC OCEAN.
157
fnort excurfion into the country, accompanied by
the iflander above-mentioned, and followed by
two others who carried the two pigs. When they
had arrived upon a riling ground, the Captain
Hopped to look around him, and immediately
obferved a woman, on the oppofite fide of the
valley in which he had landed, calling out to her
countrymen who attended him. Upon this the
man who adted as chief began to mutter fomething,
as if he was praying ; and the two bearers of the
pigs continued walking round the Captain all the
time, making about a dozen circuits before the
other had made an end of his oraifon. This
ftrange ceremony being performed, they pro-
ceeded on their walk, and met people coming
from all quarters, who, upon being called to by
the Captain’s attendants, fell proftrate on their
faces, till he was out of fight. The ground over
which he palfed, though it was uncultivated and
very llony, was covered with plants and Ihrubs,
fome of which perfumed the air with the moll
delicious fragrance.
Our party who had been detained fo long on
Ihore, found, in thofe parts of the ifland which
they had traverfed, feveral fait ponds, fome of
which had a fmall quantity of water remaining,
but others had none. They faw no appearance
of a running dream ; and though, in fome fmall
wells which they met with, the frefli water was
pretty good, it feemed to be fcarce. The houfes
of
*58
A VOYACE TO THE
of the natives were thinly fcattered about ; and it
was fuppofed, that there were not more than five
hundred perlons in the whole ifland. The me-
thod of living among thefe people was decent and
cleanly. No inftance was obferved of the men
and women eating together 5 and the latter feemed
in general to be afiociated in companies by them-
felves. The oily nuts of the dooe dooe are burned
by thefe iflanders for lights during the night j
and they drefs their hogs by baking them in ovens,
fplitting the carcafes through the whole length.
Our people met with a fufncient proof of the ex-
iftence of the taboo among them ; for one woman
was employed in feeding another who was under
that interdiction. Several other myfterious cere-
monies were alfo obferved ; one of which was per-
formed by a woman, who threw a pig into the
furf, and drowned it, and then tied up a bundle
of wood, which fhe difpofed of in the like man-
ner. The fame female, at another time, beat a
man’s Ihoulders with a flick, after he had feated
himfelf for that purpofe. An extraordinary ve-
neration feemed to be paid here to owls, which
they keep very tame. It appeared to be a pretty
general pradtice among them, to pull out one of
their teeth and when they were afked the reafon
of this remarkable cuftom, the only anfwer they
gave was, that it was teeha ; which was alfo the
reafon afligned by them for giving a lock of their
hair.
After
PACIFIC OCEAN.
*59
After our water-cafks had been filled, and fome
roots, fait, and faked fifh, had been purchaled
from the natives. Captain Cook returned on board
with all his people, intending to make another
vifit to the ifland the next day. But, about feven
in the evening, the anchor of the Refolution
ftarted, fo that Ike drove off the bank. By this
accident, we found ourfelves, at day-break the
next morning, which was the 2d of February,
nine miles to the leeward of our laft flation ; and
the Captain forefeeing that it would require more
time to regain it than he chofe to employ, made
the fignal for the Difcovery to weigh anchor and
join us. This junction was effected about noon ;
and both fhips immediately directed their courfe
to the northward, in profecution of their voyage.
Thus, after we had fpent more time in the neigh-
bourhood of thefe iflahds than was neceflary to
have anfwered all our purpofes, we were obliged
to quit them before we had completed our flock
of water, or procured from them fuch a plentiful
fupply of refrefhments as the natives were both
able and willing to have furnifhed us with. Our
Blip, however, obtained from them provifions
that lafted at leak three weeks; and Captain
Clerke, more fortunate than we were, acquired
fuch a quantity of vegetables, as fufheed the Dif-
covery's people upwards of two months.
The obfervations which Captain Cook was ena-
bled to make on thefe iflands, combined with
thofe
l60 A VOYAGE TO THE
thofe of Mr. Anderfon, whofe abilities and afll-
duity rendered him a very ufeful affiftant on fuch
occafions, will fupply materials for the following
chapter.
C H A P. XII.
Situation of the IJlands now di/covered by us — The
Name of Sandwich IJlands given to the whole
Group — Atooi particularly defcribed — Its Soil —
Climate — Vegetable Produce — Birds — Fijh — Bo-
rn eft ic Animals — The Perfons and Bifpofttion of
the Natives— Eftimate of their Number— Their
Drefs and Ornaments — Houfes — Food — Mode of
Cookery — Biverfions — Mufical Inftruments —
Manufactures — T ools — Their Acquaintance with
Iron accounted for — Their Canoes defcribed —
Agriculture — Account of one of their Chiefs , who
vifited Captain Clerke — Their IV tapons — Affinity
between their Manners and ihofe of the Society
and Friendly IJlanders— Their Language— Ad-
vantageous Situation of the Sandwich IJles .
THE iflands in the Pacific Ocean, which
have been difcovered in the courfe of our
late voyages, have been generally found fituate
in groups j the fingle intermediate ifies, hitherto
met
Pacific ocean. i 6i
mtt with, being few in proportion to the reft $
though, in all probability, there are many more
of them yet unknown, which ferve as gradations
or fteps between the feveral clufters. Of what
number this new-difcovered Archipelago is com-
poled, muft be left to the decifion of future navi-
gators. We obferved five of them, whofe names
are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and
Tahoora. The laft of thefe is a fmall elevated
ifland, at the diftance of four or five leagues from
the fouth-eaft point of Oneeheow. We were in-
formed, that it abounds witn birds, which are its
foie inhabitants. We'alfo gained fome intelli-
gence with regard to the exiftence of a low unin-
habited ifland in the neighbourhood, named Tam-
mata-pappa. Befides thefe fix, we were told
that there were fome other iflands both to the
eaftward and weftward. Captain Cook diftin-
guifhed the whole group by the name of the Sand-
wich Iflands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich.
Thofe which he faw are fituated between the la- •
titude of 2i° 3c )') and 220 15' north, and between
the longitude of 1990 20', and 201° 30', eaft.
With refpeft to Woahoo, the moft eafterly of
thefe iflands, feen by us, we could get no other
information, but that it is high land, and is in-
habited.
Oneeheow, concerning which fome particulars
have been already mentioned, lies feven leagues
to the weftward of our anchoring-place at Atom,
Voi.II.-nOj. M anci
1 62
A VOYAGE TO THE
and does not exceed fifteen leagues in circum-
ference. Yams are its principal vegetable pro-
duction. We procured fome fait here, called by
the natives patai , which is produced in fait ponds.
With it they cure both fifh and pork ; and fome
fait fifh, which we purchafed from them, were
extremely good, and kept very well. This ifland
is chiefly low land, except the part oppofite Atooi,
which rifes immediately from the fea to a con-
fiderable height j as does alfo its fouth-eaft point,
which terminates in a round hill.
Of Oreehoua we know no other particulars than
that it is an elevated ifland, of fmall extent, lying
clofe to the north fide of Oneeheow.
Atooi, which is the largeft of thofe we favv,
being the principal fcene of our operations, we
(hall now proceed to lay before our readers fuch
information as we were able to colleCt concerning
it. From what we obferved of it, it is, at leaf:,
ten leagues in length from eaft to weft from
whence its circumference may nearly be guelfed,
though it appears to be much broader at the eaft
than at the weft point. The road, or anchoring-
place, which our vefiels occupied, is on the fouth-
weft fide of the ifland, about two leagues from
the weft end, before a village named Wymoa.
As far as we founded, we found the bank free
from rocks i except to the eaftward of the village,
where there proje&s a fhoal, on which are fome
rocks and breakers. This road is fomewhat ex-
pofed
' pacific ocean.
1 63
poled to the trade wind; notwithltanding which
deleft, it is far from being a bad ftation, and
greatly lupenor to thole which necefTity conti-
nually obliges (hips to ufe, in countries where
the winds are not only more variable, but more
boifterous; as at Madeira, Teneriffe, the Azores,
See. The landing too is not fo difficult as at moft
of thofe places ; and, unlefs in very bad weather,
is always prafticable. The water in the neigh-
bourhood is excellent, and may be conveyed with
eafe to the boats. But no wood can be cut at
any convenient diftance, unlefs the inlanders
could be prevailed upon to part with the few etooa
trees (for that is the name they give to the cordia
JebaJlina) that grow about their villages, or a fpe-
cies called dooe dooe , which grows farther up the
country.
The land does not in the leaft refemble, in its
general appearance, any of the iflands we have
vifited within the tropic of Capricorn; if we ex-
cept its hills near the centre, which are high,
but Hope gradually towards the fea, or lower lands.
Though it prefents not to the view the delightful
borders of Otaheite, or the luxuriant plains of
Tongataboo, covered with trees, which at once
afford a ffielter from the fcorching rays of the fun,
a beautiful profpeft to the eye, and food for the
natives; yet its poffeffing a greater portion of
gently riling land, renders it, in fome degree,
fuperior to the above-mentioned favourite iflands,
M 2
as
A VOYAGE TO THE
164
as being more capable of improvement. The
height of the land within, and the number of
clouds which we faw, during the whole time of
our continuance, hanging over it, and not unfre-
quently on the odier parts, feem to indicate that
there is a fufficient fupply of water, and that there
are forrre running ftreams which we had not an
opportunity of feeing, particularly in the deep
vallies, at the entrance of which the villages are,
in general, fituated. The ground, from the wooded
part to the fea, is covered with an excellent kind
of grafs, about two feet in height, which fome-
times grows in tufts, and appeared capable of
being converted into abundant crops of fine hay.
But on this extenfive fpace not even a fhrub grows
naturally.
In the narrow valley leading to the moral, the
foil is of a dark-brown colour, rather loofe; but,
on the high ground, it is of a reddifh brown,
more ftiff and clayey. It is probably the fame all
over the cultivated parts ; for what adhered to
moft of the potatoes that we purchafed, which,
doubtlefs, came from very different fpots, was of
this fort. Its quality, however, may be better
eftimated from its productions, than from its ap-
pearance. For the vale, or morft ground, pro-
duces taro , much larger than any we had ever
feen; and the more elevated ground furnilhes
fweet potatoes, that feldom weigh lefs than two or
three
PACIFIC OCEAN. l6$
three pounds, and frequently weigh ten, and fome*-
times a dozen or fourteen pounds.
Were we to judge of the climate from our ex-
perience, it might be faid to be very variable ;
for, according to the general opinion, it was, at
this time, the feafon of the year when the weather
is fuppofed to be moft fettled, the fun being at
his greateft annual diftance. The heat was now
very moderate j and few of thofe inconveniencies
to which many countries lying within the tropics
are fubjett, either from heat or rpoiflure, feem to
be experienced here. Nor did we find any dews
of confequence ; a circumftance which may partly
be accounted for, by the lower part of the coun-
try being deftitute of trees.
The rock that conftitutes the Tides of the valley,
is a dark-grey ponderous ftone j but honey-
combed, with fome fpots of a rufty colour, and
Tome very minute lhining particles interfperfed.
It is of an immenfe depth, and feems to be di-
vided into Jlrutai though nothing is mterpofed;
for the large pieces always broke off to a deter-
minate thicknefs, and did not appear to have ad-
hered to thofe that were below them. Other {tones
are, in all probability, much more various than
in the foutnern iflands, For, during the fhort
time we remained here, befides the laps lydius, ,
we found a fpecies of cream-coloured whetflone,
fometimes variegated with whiter or blacker veins,
like marble j and common writing flate^ as well
M 3 &
i66
A VOYAGE TO THE
" r U
as fome of a coarfer fort ; and the natives brought
us fome pieces of a coarfe whitifh pumice done.
We alfo procured a brown fort of hamatites , which,
from its being drongly attra&ed by the magnet,
difcovered the quantity of metal it contained.
What we faw of this was cut artificially, as were
alfo the dates and whetftones.
Bolides the vegetables purchafed by us as re-
frefhments, among which were, at lead:, live or
fix varieties of plantains, the idand produces
bread fruit: this, however, feems to be fcarce, as
we only faw one tree of that fpecies. There are
alfo a few cocoa-palms ■, fome yams ; the kappe
of the Friendly Idands, or Virginian arum j the
etooa tree, and odoriferous gardenia> or cape jaf-
mine. We met with feveral trees of the dooe
dooe> that bear the oily nuts, which are duck upon
* i
a kind of Ikewer, and made ufe of as candles.
Our people faw them ufed in the fame manner at
Oiieeheow. We were not on Ihore at Atooi ex-
cept in the day-time, and then we obferved the
idanders wearing thefe nuts, hung on firings,
round their necks. There is a fpecies offida, or
Indian mallow; alfo the morinda citrifolia , which
is here called none ; a fpecies of convolvulus the
ava3 or intoxicating pepper, befides great quan-
tities of gourds. Thefe lad grow to a very large
fize, and are of a remarkable variety of lhapes,
which are, perhaps, the effedt of art. Upon the
dry fund, about the village, grew a plant, that had
i .•{■>. , .* • • never
PACIFIC OCEAN, , 1 67
never been feen by us in this ocean, of the fize of
a common thiftle, and prickly ; but bearing a fine
flower, greatly refembling a white poppy.
The fcarlet birds, which were brought for fale,
were never met with alive ; but we faw one fmall
one, about the fize of a canary bird, of a deep
crimfon colour. We alfo faw a large owl, two
brown hawks, or kites, and a wild duck. We
heard from the natives the names of fome other
birds ; among which were the otoo, or blueifli
heron, and the torata , a fort of whimbrel. It is
probable that the fpecies of birds are numerous,
if we may judge by the quantity of fine yellow,
green, and fmall, velvet-like, blackifli feathers
ufed upon the cloaks, and other ornaments, worn
by thefe people.
Fifli, and other productions of the fea, were, to
appearance, not various; as, befides the fmall
mackerel, we only faw common mullets ; a fpe-
cies of a chalky colour; a fmall brown ifh rock-
fifh, adorned with blue fpots ; a turtle, which
was penned up in a pond; and three or four forts
of fifli falted. The few fliell-fifli feen by us were
. chiefly converted into ornaments, though they
were deftitute of the recommendation either of
beauty or novelty.
The only tame or domeftic animals that we
found here were hogs, dogs, and fowls, which
were all of the fame kind that we met with at the
iflands of the South Pacific, There were alio
M 4 fmall
A VOYAGE TO THE
l6S
fmall lizards; and fome rats, refembling thofe of
every ifl and which we had hitherto vifited.
The inhabitants of Atooi are of the middle
fize, and, in general, ftoutly made. They are
neither remarkable for a beautiful fhape, nor for
linking features. Their vifage, particularly that
of the women, is fometimes round, but others
have it long; nor can it judly be faid, that they
are didinguifhed, as a nation, by any general call
of countenance. Their complexion is nearly of a
nut brown ; but fome individuals are of a darker
hue. We have already mentioned the women as
being little more delicate than the men in their
formation ; and we may add, that, with few ex-
ceptions, they have little claim to thofe peculiari-
ties that didinguifh the fex in mod other parts of
the world. There is, indeed, a very remarkable
equality in the fize, colour and figure, of the na-
tives of both fexes : upon the whole, however,
they are far from being ugly, and have, to all ap-
pearance, few natural deformities of any kind.
Their fkin is not very fo.ft, nor fhining; but their
eyes and teeth are, for the mod part, pretty good.
Their hair, in general, is draight; and though its
natural colour is ufually black, they dain it, as at
the Friendly and other iflands. We perceived
but few indances of corpulence, and thefe more
frequently among the women than the men ; but
^t was principally among the latter, that perfona!
defefls were obferved ; though, if any of them can
V N | k > t • < * *4 .
lay
PACIFIC OCEAN.' I Sg
lay claim to a fhare of beauty, it appeared to be
moft confpicuous amongft the young men.
They are active, vigorous, and moft expert
fwimmers leaving their canoes upon the moft
frivolous ocqafion, diving under them, and fwim-
ming to others, though at a confiderable diftance.
We have frequently feen women, with infants at
the breaft, when the furf was fo high as to prevent,
their landing in the canoes, leap overboard, and
fwim to the fhore, without endangering their
little ones.
They appear to be of a frank, chearful difpo-
firion ; and are equally free from the fickle levity
which characterizes the inhabitants of Otaheite,
and the ledate caft which is obfervable amono-
many of thofe of Tongataboo. They feem to
cultivate a fociable intercourfe with each other;
and, except the propenfity to thieving, which is,
as it were, innate in moft of the people we have
yifited in thefe feas, they were extremely friendly
to us. wAnd it does no fmall credit to their fen-
fibility, without flattering ourfelves, that when
they faw the different articles of our European ma-
nufacture, they could not refrain from exprefling
their aftonifhment, by a mixture of joy and con-
cern, that feemed to apply the cafe as a lefion of
humility to themfelves; and, on every occafion,
they appeared to have a proper confcioufnefs of
their own inferiority ; a behaviour that equally
fxempts their national character from the ridicu-
4 lous
I7O A VOYAGE TO THE
lous pride of the more poliffied Japanefe, and of
the ruder native of Greenland. It was pleafing to
obferve with what affedlion the women managed
their infants, and with what alacrity the men con-
tributed their affifiance in fuch a tender office ;
thus diftinguifhing themfelves from thofe favages,
who confider a wife and child as things rather ne-
cefTary, than definable, or worthy of their regard
and eftecm.
From the numbers that we faw aflembled at
every village, as we coaded along, it may be con-
jectured, that the inhabitants of this ifland are
pretty numerous. Including the draggling houfes,
there might perhaps be, in the whole ifland, fixty
fuch villages as that near which our fhips an-
chored ; and, if we allow five perfons to each
houfe, there would be, in every village, five hun-
dred; or thirty thouiand upon the ifland. This
number is by no means exaggerated, for there
were fometimes three thoufand people, at lead,
collected upon the beach ; when it could not be
fuppofed, that above a tenth part of the natives
were prefent.
The ordinary drefs of both fexes ha.s been al-
ready defcribed. The women have often much
larger pieces of cloth wrapped about them, ex-
tending from juft below the breads to the hams,
and fometimes lower ; and feveral were obferved
with pieces thrown loofely over their ffioulders,
which covered the greateft part of the body ; but
the
PACrFJC OCEAN.
the children, when very young, are entirely naked.
They wear nothing upon the head ; but the hair,
both of men and women, is cut in various forms;
and the general fafhion, particularly among the
latter, is to have it lhort behind, and long before.
The men frequently had it cut on each fide in
luch a manner, that the remaining part fomewhat
refembled the creft of their caps or helmets, before
mentioned. Both fexes, however, feemed to be
very carelefs about their hair, and had no combs,
nor any thing of the kind, to drefs it with. The
men fometimes twifl it into a number of feparate
parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about as thick
as a finger ; though mofl of thefe, which are fo
long as to reach far down the back, are artifici-
ally fixed upon the head, over their own hair.
Contrary to the general practice of mofl of the
lflands of the Pacific Ocean, the people of the
Sandwich Ifles have not their ears perforated, nor
do they wear any ornaments in them. Both men
and women, however, adorn themfelves with
necklaces compofed of bunches of fmall black
cord, like our hat-firing, often above a hundred-
fold; entirely refembling thofe we faw worn at
Wateeoo, except that, inflead of the two little
balls on the middle before, they fix a fmall piece
of wood, flone, or fhell, about two inches in length,
with a broad hook, well polifhed. They iTave
alfo necklaces of many firings of very fmall fhells,
or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow; and
they
A VOYAGE TO THE
l'7$
they fometimes hang round their necks a fmall
human figure of bone, about the length of three
inches. The women likewife wear bracelets of a
fingle fhell, pieces of black wood, with bits of
ivory interfperfed, and neatly polifhed, fattened
together by a firing drawn clofely through them ;
or others of hogs-teeth, placed parallel to each
other, with the concave part outward, and the
points cut off i fome of which, formed only of
large boar’s tufks, are very elegant. The men
fometimes fix on their heads plumes of feathers of
the tropic bird ; or thofe of cocks, fattened round
neat polifhed flicks, two feet in length; and, for
the fame purpofe, they few the fkin of a white
dog’s tail over a flick, with its tuft at the end.
They alfo, not unfrequently, wear on the head a
kind of ornament, of the thicknefs of a finger,
or more, covered with yellow and red feathers,
curioufly varied, and tied behind ; and, on that
part of the arm which is above the elbow, a fort
pf broad fhell-work, grounded upon net-work.
The men fometimes punfture themfelves upon
their hands or arms, and near the groin ; but fre-
quently we faw no marks at all ; though a few
individuals had more of this lpecies of ornament
than we had ufually feen at other places, and cu-
rioufly executed in a great variety of lines and
figures, on the arms and fore-part of the body.
Contrary to the cuftom of the Friendly and Society
Ifiands, they do not flit, or cut off, any part of the
prepuce ;
Pacific ocean.
>73
prepuce-, but have it univerfally drawn over the
glans , and tied with a firing.
There is no appearance of defence, or fortifica-
tion, near any of their villages, and the houfes
are fcattered about, without the leafl order. Some
of thefe habitations are large and commodious,
from forty to fifty feet in length, and twenty or
thirty in breadth; while others of them are con-
temptible hovels. Their figure refembles that of
hay-flacks ; or, perhaps, a better idea may be con-
ceived of them, by fuppofing the roof of a bam
placed on the ground, in fuch a manner, as to
form a high, acute ridge, with two low fides.
The gable at each end, correfponding to the fides,
makes thefe dwelling-places clofe all round ; and
they are well thatched with long grafs, which is
laid on (lender poles. The entrance is made
either in the end or fide, and is an oblong hole,
extremely low ; it is often fliut up by a board of
planks, fattened together, which ferves as a door;
but, as it has no hinges, mutt be removed occa-
fionally. No light enters thehoufe except by this
opening ; and though fuch clofe habitations may
be comfortable places of retreat in bad weather,
they feem but ill-adapted to the warm climate of
this country. They are kept remarkably clean,
and the floors are ftrewed with dried grafs, over
which mats are fpread to fit and deep on. At
one end Hands a bench, about three feet high, on
which the domeftic utenfils are placed, Thefe
confift
174 A VOYAGE TO THE
confifl of gourd-lhells, which the natives con-
vert into vefiels that ferve as bottles to hold
water, and as bafkets to contain their food, and
other things 3 and alfo of a few wooden bowls
and trenchers of various fizes.
'From what we faw growing, and from what
was brought to market, we have no doubt, that
fweet potatoes, taro , and plantains, conftitute
the principal part of their vegetable diet 3 and
that yams and bread-fruit arg rather to beconfider-
ed as rarities. Of animal food, they appear to be-
in no want 3 as they have great numbers of hogs,
which run, without reftraint, about the houfes 3
and, if they eat dogs, which is not altogether
improbable, their ftock of thefe feemed very
confiderable. The quantities of fifhing-hooks
found among them, indicated that they procure
a tolerable fupply of animal food from the fea.
They have a cuflom of faking fifh, and likewife
pork, which they preferve in gourd-fhells. The
fait, which they life for this purpole, is of a red-
difh colour, but not very coarfe, and feems to be
nearly the fame with what our ftragglers found at
Chriftmas Ifland. Its colour, is, doubtlefs, de-
rived from a mixture of mud, at the bottom
of the part where it is formed 3 for fome of it*
which had adhered in lumps, was of a tolerable
whitenels.
They bake their vegetable articles of food with
heated ftones 3 and, from the great quantity which
we faw drelfed at one time, we imagined, that
all
PACIFIC OCEAN-. 1 7 £
all the inhabitants of a village, or, at lead, a
confiderable number of people, joined in' the-
ufe of a common oven. We did not perceive
them drefs any animal food at this ifland; but
Mr. Gore’s party, as has been already mention-
ed, obferved that it was dfefied at Oneeheovv in
the fame kind of ovens, which makes it highly
probable that this is alfo the practice in Atooi ;
particularly as we met with no utenfil there, that
could ferve the purpofe of boiling or Hewing.
T. he only artificial difh we faw, was a taro pud-
ding j which, though very four, was devoured
withavidify by the natives. They eat off a fort of
wooden trenchers; and, as far as we were enabled
to judge from one inftance, the women, if re-
frained from feeding at the fame difh with the
men, as is the cuftom at Otaheite, are, at leafr3
allowed to eat in the fame place near them.
The amufements of thefe people are various.
We did not fee the dances at which they ufe the
feathered cloaks and caps; but, from the mo-
tions which they made with their hands, on other
occafions, when they fung, we judged that they .
were fomewhat fimilar to thofe we had met with
at the fouthern iflands, though not fo fkilfully
performed. They had not, among them, either
flutes or reeds ; and the only two mufical inftru-
ments, feen by us, were of an extremely rude
kind. One of them does not produce a melody
fu peri or to that of a child’s rattle. It confifts _
of what may be denominated a conic cap invert-
3 ed.
A VOYAGE TO THE
*76
*
ed, but very little hollowed at the bale, made of
a fedge-like plant ; the upper part of which, and
likewife the edges, are embellifhed with beau-
tiful red feathers ; and to the point, or lower part,
is fixed a gourd-lhell. Into this they put fome-
thing to rattle, which is done by holding the
inftrument by the fmall part, and fhaking it
brifkly before the face, at the fame time ftriking
the breafl with the other hand. The other in-
ftrument was a hollow vefiel of wood, not unlike
a platter, combined with the ufe of two flicks,
on which one of our gentlemen obferved a man
performing. He held one of the flicks, about
two feet in length, with one hand, in the lame
manner as we hold a violin, and ftruck it with
the other, which was fmaller, and refembled a
drum-flick, in a quicker or flower meafure;
beating with his foot at the fame time upon the
hollow vefiel, that lay upon the ground invert-
ed, and thus producing a tune, that was not
difagreeable. This mufic was accompanied by
the vocal performance of fome women, whofe
fong had a pleafing effedt.
They have great numbers of fmall polifhed
rods, of the length of between four arid five
feet, rather thicker than the rammer of a muf-
quet, with a tuft of long white dog s hair fixed
on the fmall end. Thefe they probably make
ufe of in their diverfions. We faw a native take
one of them in his hand, and, holding it up, give
a fmart
PACIFIC OCEAN*
177
3 fmart flroke, till it was brought into an ho-
rizontal pofition, ftriking the ground with his
foot, on the fame fide, and beating his bread: with
his other hand. They play at bowls with pieces
of the whet-ftone above-mentioned, fhaped fome-
what like a fmall cheefe, but rounded at the edges
and fides, which are very neatly polilhed. They
have other bowls made of a reddifh-brown clay,
glazed Over with a compofition of the fame co-
lour, or of a coarfe dark-grey (late. They alfo
life, as quoits, fmall fiat roundifh pieces of the
writing date, fcarcely a quarter of an inch thick;
In the different manufa&ures of thefe people*
there appears to be an extraordinary degree of
ingenuity and neatnefs. Their cloth is made
from the mortis papyrifera, and, doubtlefs, in the
fame manner, as at Tongataboo and Otaheite ;
for we bought fome of the grooved flicks with
which they beat it. Its texture, however, though
thicker, is inferior to that of the cloth of either
of the places juft mentioned * but in colouring or
ftaining it, the inhabitants of Atooi difplay a
fuperiority of tafle, by the infinite variety of fi-
gures which they execute. Their colours, in-
deed* are not very bright, except the red * but the
regularity of the figures and flripes is amazing *
for, as far as we know, they have nothing like
ftamps or prints, to make the imprefiions. We
had no opportunity of learning in what manner
they produce their colours ; but, befides the
Vol. II.— N°9. N
vane-
A VOYAGE TO THE
1 7 S
variegated forts, they have fome pieces of plairl
white cloth, and others of a fingle colour, par-
ticularly light-blue, and dark-brown. In gene-
ral, the pieces brought to us were about the
breadth of two feet, and four or five yards in
length, being the form and quantity made ufe of
by them for their common drefs, or maro ; and
even fome of thefe were compofed of pieces few^
ed together. They have alfo a particular fort
that is thin, and greatly refembles oil-cloth j and
which is either oiled or foaked in fome kind of
varnifh. They fabricate numbers of white mats,
which are ftrong, with many red ftripes, rhom-
bnfes, and other figures interwoven on one fide.
Thefe, in all probability, occafionally make a part
of their drefs ; for, when they offered them to
fale, they put them on their backs. They ma-
nufacture others of a coarfer fort, plain and ftrong,
which they fpread over their floors to fleep
upon.
Theyftain their gourd-fhells neatly with undu-
lated lines/ triangles, and other figures of a black
colour. They alfo feem to be acquainted with
the art of varnifhing ; for fome of thefe ftained
o-ourd-fiiells are covered with a fort of lacker }
Ind, on other occafions, they make ufe of a ftrong
fize,' or glutinous fubftance, to fallen things to-
gether. Their wooden difhes and bowls, out
of which they drink their ava, are of the etooa
tree or cordia , extremely neat and well polifhed.
They
PACIFIC OCEAN.
1 79
They likewife make fmall fquare fans of mat or
wicker-work, with handles of the fame, or of
wood, tapering from them, which are curioufly
wrought with fmall cords of hair, and cocoa-nut
fibres, intermixed. Their fifliing-hooks are in-
genioufly made ; fome of bone, many of pearl-
fhell, and others of wood, pointed with bone.
The bones are for the mod: part fmall, and con-
fid: of two pieces ; and the various forts have a
barb, either on the infide, like ours, or on the
outfide; but others have both, the exterior one
being fartheft from the point. Of the latter fort,
one was procured, nine inches in length, made of
a fingle piece of bone ; the elegant form and
polifh of which, could not be exceeded by any
European artitt. They polifh their ftones, by
conftant fridion, with pumice- (lone in water;
and fuch of their tools as we law, refembled
thofe of the fouthern iflanders. Their hatchets,
or rather adzes, were exadly of the fame pattern,
and were either formed of a blackifh ftone, or
of a clay-coloured one. They have alfo fmall
inftruments compofed of a fingle fhark’s tooth,
fome of which are fixed to the fore-part of the
jaw-bone of a dog, and others to a thin wooden
handle of a fimilar fhape ; and at the other end
there is a bit of firing fattened through a little
hole. Thefe ferve occafionally as knives, and
are, probably, ufed in carving.
N 2
The
A VOYAGE TO THE
1 8o
1 he only iron-tools- feen among them, and
which they pofTeffed before our arrival, were a
piece of iron-hoop, about the length of two inches,
fitted into a wooden handle; and another edge-
tool, which we fuppofed to have been made of
the point of a broad lword. Their havino- the
actual poffeffion of thefe, and their being well
acquainted with the ufe of this metal, inclined
fome of our people to imagine that we were not
the firft European vifitors of thefe iflands. But
the very great furprize which they teftified on
feeing our fhips, and their perfect ignorance of
the ufe of fire-arms, cannot be reconciled with
fuch an opinion. There are feveral means by
which fuch people may obtain pieces of iron, or
acquire the knowledge of the exiftence of that
metal, without having had an immediate con-
nection with thofe nations that ufe it. It can
fcarcely be doubted, that it was unknown to all
the inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, till Magel-
lan led the way into it ; for no navigator, immedi-
ately after his voyage, found any of this metal in
their pofTeflion; though, in the courfe of our late
voyages, it has been remarked, that the ufe of
it was known at feveral ifiands, which no for-
mer European veffels had ever, to our knowledge,
vifited. At all the places where Mendana touch-
ed, during his two voyages, fome of it mult have
been left; and this would, doubtlefs, extend the
knowledge of it to all the various ifiands with
o which
PACIFIC OCEAN.
iSl
which the people, whom hevifited, had any im-
mediate intercourfe. It might even have been
carried farther; and where fpecimens of this va-
luable article could not be met with, defcrip-
tions might, in fome degree, ferve to make it
known, when afterwards feen. The next voyage
to the fouthward of the equator, in which any
intercourfe was had with the people who inhabit
the iflands of this ocean, was that of Quiros, who
landed at Sagittaria, the ifland of Handfome Peo-
ple, and atTierra del Efpiritu Santo; at all which
places, as well as at thofe with which they had
any communication, it muft undoubtedly have
been made known. To him fucceeded, in this
navigation, Le Maire, and Schouten, whofe con-
nexions with the natives began much farther to
the eaftward, and terminated at Cocos and Horn
iflands. It is certain, that'the inhabitants of Ota-
heite, and the Society Ifles, had a knowledge of
iron, and purchafed it with the greateft avidity,
when Captain Wallis difcovered Otaheite ; and
they could only have acquired this knowledge
through the mediation of thofe neighbouring
iflands at which it had been originally left. They
acknowledge, indeed, that this was really the
cafe ; and they have fince informed us, that they
held it in fuch eftimation, before the arrival of
Captain Wallis, that an Otaheitean chief, who
had gained pofleflion of two nails, received no
fmall emolument, by letting out the ufe of them
N 3 to
• ' /
lS2
A VOYAGE TO THE
to his neighbours, for the purpofe of boring
holes. The natives of the Society Iflands, whom
we found at Wateeoo, had been driven to that
place long after the knowledge and ufe of iron
had been thus introduced among their country-
men ; and though, perhaps, they had no fpeci-
men of it with them, they would naturally com-
municate at that ifland, by defcription, their
knowledge of this ufeful metal. From the people
of Wateeoo, again, thofe of Hervey’s Ifland
might derive that inclination for it, of which we
had fufficient proofs during our fhort intercourfq
with them.
The confideration of thefe fades will fhew,
how the knowledge of iron has been conveyed
throughout the Pacific Ocean, to iflands which
have never had an immediate connection with
Europeans ; and it may eafily be imagined, that,
wherever the hiftory of it only has been report-
ed, or a very inconfiderable quantity of it has
been left, the greater eagernefs will be fhewn by
the inhabitants to procure plentiful fupplies of
it. The application of thefe particulars, to the
.objedt of our prefent confideration, is manifeft.
The natives of Atooi and Oneeheow, without
having ever been vifited by Europeans before us,
might have received this metal from interme-
diate iflands, fituated between them and the La-
drones, which the Spaniards have' frequented al-
moft ever fince the period of Magellan’s voyage.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
Or, if the diftant weftern pofition of the La-
drones, ihould detract from the probability of
this folution, is there not the American conti-
nent to windward, where the Spaniards have been
fettled for upwards of two centuries and a
half ; during which long fpace of time, Ihip-
wrecks muft frequently have happened on its
coafts? It cannot be deemed furprizing, that part
of fuch wrecks, containing iron, Ihould, by the
ealterly trade-winds, be occafionally call upon
fomeof thofe iflands which aredifperfed about this
immenfe ocean. The diftance of Atooi from
America, is no argument againft this fuppofition;
and even if it were, it would not deltroy it. This
ocean is annually traverfed by Spanifh veflels ;
and it is highly probable, that, befides the acci-
dent of lofing a malt and its appendages, calks
with iron-hoops, and many other things that con-
tain iron, may fall, or be thrown overboard du-
ring fo long a pafiage, and thus find their way to
land. Thefe are not mere conjectures ; for one
of Captain Cook’s people actually faw fome wood
in a houfe at Wymoa, which he fuppofed to be
fir : it was worm-eaten, and the natives inform-
ed him, that it had been driven afhore by the
waves ; and we had their own exprefs teftimony,
that they had obtained, from fome place to the
eaftward, the fpecimens of iron found among
them.
N 4
From
*84 a voyage to the
\
From this digreflion (if it can juftly be called
lb) let us return to the obfervations made during
our continuance at Atooi. The canoes of thefe
people are commonly abogt four and twenty feet
in length, and have the bottom, in general, form-
ed of a fingle piece of wood, hollowed out to
the thicknefs of an inch, or more, and brought
to a point at each end. The Tides are compofed
of three boards, each about an inch thick, neatly
fitted and lafhed to the bottom. The extremi-
ties, both at head and ftern, are a little elevat-
ed, and both are made fiharp, fomewhat refem-
biing a' wedge, but they flatten more abruptly,
fo that the two fide-boards join each other, fide
by fide, for upwards of a foot. As they feldom
exceed a foot and a half in breadth, thofe that
go fingle (for they fometimesjoin them) have out-
riggers, which are 111 aped and fitted with more
judgment than any we had before feen. They
are rowed by paddles, fuch as we had generally
obferved at other ifiands and fome of them
have a light triangular fail, extended to a
mail and boom. The ropes which they ufe for
their boats, and the finaller cords for their filh-
ing-tackle, are ftrong, and neatly made.
They are by no means novices in the art of
agriculture. The vale-ground is one continu-
ed plantation of taro, and fome other articles,
which have all the appearance of being carefully
attended to. The potatoe-fields, and fpots of
v fugar-
'IT
Cook's Joy age Octavo.
pacific ocean.
185
fugar-cane, or plantains, on the higher grounds,
are planted with great regularity ; but neither
thefe, nor the others, are enclofed with any fence,
unlels we confider the ditches in the low grounds
as fuch ; which, it is more probable, are defign-
ed to convey water to the taro. The great quan-
tity and excellence of thefe articles, may perhaps
be as much owing to fkilful culture, as natural
fertility of foil, which feems better adapted to
them than to bread-fruit and cocoa-nut-trees;
the few we faw of thefe latter not being in a thriv-
ing ftate. Notwithftanding this fkill in agricul-
ture, the ifland, from its general appearance, feem-
ed to be capable of more extenfive improvement*
and of maintaining thrice as many inhabitants
as are • now upon it •, for the greater part of i^
that now lies wafte, was apparently as good a foil
as thofe parts that are cultivated. It mult there-
fore be inferred, that thefe people do not increafe
in that proportion, which would render it ne-
ceffary for them to take advantage of the extent
of their illand, towards raifing a greater quantity
of its vegetable produdtions for their maintenance.
Though Captain Cook did not fee a chief of
any note, there were, however, feveral, as the
iflanders informed us, who refide at Atooi, and
to whom they proftrate themfelves as a mark of
homage and refpeft. This proftration feems
equivalent to the moe moea , paid to the chiefs of
the Friendly Iflands, and is here denominated
hamoea.
j 86
A VOYAGE TO THE
hambeay or moe. Whether they were, at firfl,
afraid to fhew themfelves, or happened to be ab-
fent, we cannot determine j but after the Refo-
lution had left the ifland, one of thefe great men
made his appearance, and viiited Captain Clerke
on board the Difcovery ; he came off in a double
canoe j and, like the fovereign of the Friendly
Iflcs, paid no regard to the fmall canoes that
chanced to be in his way, but ran againft, or
over them, without making the leafl attempt to
avoid them. And it was impoffible for thefe
poor people to avoid him, for they could not then
manage their canoes ; it being a neceffary mark
of their fubmiffion, that they fhpuld lie down till
he had paffed. His attendants aflifted him in
getting on board the fhip, and placed him in the
gang-way, where they flood round him, holding
each other by the hands ; nor would they fuller
any one to approach him but Captain Clerke
himfelf. He was a young man, apparelled from
head to foot, and was accompanied by a young
woman, who was perhaps his wife. His name
was faid to be Tamahano. Captain Clerke hav-
ing made him fome prefents, received from him,
in return, a large bowl, fupported by two figures
of men, the carving of which difplayed fome de-
gree of fkill, both with refpedt to the defign and
the execution. This bowl ufed to be filled with
the kavay or ava , (as it is termed at Otaheite),
which liquor is prepared and drank here as at
the
PACIFIC OCEAN,
l87
the other iflands of the Pacific Ocean. Captain
Clerke could not prevail upon this chief to go
below, nor to move from the fpot where his at-
tendants had firft placed him. After remaining
fome time in the fhip, he was carried back into
his canoe, and returned to the ifland, The fol-
lowing day, feveral meffages were fent to Cap-
tain Clerke, inviting him to return the vifit on
fhore, and giving him to underftand, that the
chief had prepared a confiderable prefent for the
occafion ; but the Captain being anxious to get
out to fea, and join the Refolution, did not think
proper to accept of the invitation.
The lhort and imperfed intercourfe we had
with the natives, did not enable us to form any
accurate judgment of the form of government
eftablilhed amongft them ; but, from the general
fimilarity of cuftoms, and particularly from what
we obferved of the honours paid to their chiefs,
it feems reafonable to imagine, that it is of the
fame nature with that which prevails in all the
iflands we had hitherto vifited j and, in all pro-
bability, their wars among themfelves are equally
frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred, from
the number of weapons which we found in their
poffeflion, and from the excellent order in which
they kept them. But we had proofs of the fad
from their own confeflion ; and, as we were in-
formed, thefe wars are carried on between the
different diftrids of their own ifland, as well as
between
1 88 ‘ A VOYAGE TO THE
between it and the neighbouring inhabitants of
the ides of Oneeheow and Oreehoua. We fcarcely
need aflign any other caufe befides this, to ac-
count for the appearance, before-mentioned, of
their population not being proportioned to the
extent of their ground that is capable of culti-
vation.
Befides their fpears, formed of a fine brownifh
wood, beautifully polifhed, fome of which are
barbed at one end, and flattened to a point at the
other, they have a kind of weapon which we had
never met with before. It fomewhat refembles
a dagger, and is, in general, about eighteen
inches in length ; fharpened at one or both ends,
and fecured to the hand by a firing. Its ufe is
to ftab in clofe combat, and it feems well adapt-
ed to that purpofe. Some of thele may be de-
nominated double daggers, having a handle in
the middle, with which they are the better enabled
to ftrike different ways. They have likewife
bov/s and arrows ; but, both from their (lender
confirudtion, and their apparent fcarcity, it is
probable that they never make ufe of them in'
battle. The knife or faw, already mentioned,
with which they difiebt the dead bodies of their
enemies, may alfo be ranked among their wea-
pons, as they both firike and cut with it -when
engaged in clofe fight. It is a fmall flat wooden
inftrument, about a foot in lengrh, cf an ob ong
fhapc, rounded at the corners ; its edges are fur-
rounded
PACIFIC OCEAN. I 8 9.'
/
rounded with fliark’s teeth flrongly fixed to it,
and pointing outwards ; and it has generally a
hole in the handle, through which paffes a long
firing, which they wrap feveral times round the
wrifl. We alfo conjectured, that they ufe flings
on fome occafions for we procured l'ome pieces
of the hamatites or blood-ftone, artificially made
of an oval form, longitudinally divided, with a
narrow groove in the middle of the convex part.
To this, the perfon who had one of them appli-
ed a thin cord, but would not difpofe of it, though
he was not unwilling to part with the ftone,
which, as it weighed a pound, mult prove fatal
when thrown with fome degree of force. We
likewife faw fome pieces of whetflone neatly po-
lifhed, of an oval figure, but fomewhat pointed
towards each end ; nearly refembling in fhape
fome flones feen by Captain Cook at New Cale-
donia in 1774, and made ufe of there in flings.
As fome of their religious inllitutions, and
their method of difpofing of their dead, flrong-
ly indicate an affinity between the manners of
thefe people and of the natives of the Friendly
and Society Iflands, we will mention a few par-
ticulars that will ferve to place this in a finking
point of view. The inhabitants of Tongataboo
bury their dead with great decency, and they alfo
inter their human facrifices ; but they do not, to
our knowledge, offer any other animal, or even
vegetable, to their deities. The Otaheiteans do
not
I9c5 a voyage to ths
not inter their dead, but expofe them to wade
by time and putrefaction, though they afterwards
bury the bones j and, this being the cafe, it is
remarkable, that they fliould inter the entire bo-
dies of their human facnfices. They alio offer
up, to their gods, other animals and vegetables ;
but are far from being attentive to the condition
of the places, where they celebrate thofe folemn
rites ; moffc of their viorais being in a ruinous
ftate, and fhewing manifeft tokens of negleCt.
I he people of Atooi, again, bury both their com-
mon dead, and their human facrifices, as at Tort-
gataboo; but they refemble thofe of Otaheite,
in offering vegetables and animals to their gods,
and in the neglected date of their religious places.
The taboo alfo prevails in Atooi, in its full ex-
tent, and apparently with greater ftri&nefs than
even at Tongataboo. For the natives here al-
ways afked, with great eagernefs, and with indi-
cations of a fear of offending, whether any par-
ticular thing, which they defired to fee, or we
were unwilling to fhew, was taboo , or (as they
pronounced the word) tafod ? The mata rad, or
prohibited articles at the Society Iflands, though
undoubtedly the fame thing, did not appear to
be fo rigoroufly obferved by them, except with
regard to the dead; refpeding whom we thought
them more fuperflitious than any of the others
were. Thefe, however, are circumftances con-
cerning which we cannot pretend to fpeak deci-
fively j
PACIFIC OCEAN.
*9*
lively ; and we ffiall only obferve, to ffiew the
iimilitude in other points connected with religi-
on, that the tahounas , or priefls, feem to be as
numerous here as at the other iflands.
But whatever refemblance we might difeover
between the general manners of the inhabitants
of Atooi, and thofe of Otaheite, thefe were lefs
flriking than the fimilarity of language. Indeed,
the languages of both places may be faid to be
almoft entirely the fame. The people of Atooi,
in general, have neither the ftrong guttural pro-
nunciation of the New-Zealanders, nor that
fmaller degree of it, which alfo diftinguiffies the
Friendly Iflanders ; and they have not only adopt-
ed the foft mode of the Otaheiteans, in avoiding
harffi founds, but the whole idiom of their lan-
guage i making ufe of the fame affixes and fuf-
fixes to their words, and the fame meafure -and
Cadenc'e in their fongs; at firft hearing, indeed, a
ftranger may perceive fome dilagreement; but
it ffiould be confidered, that the natives of Ota-
heite, from their frequent connections with the
Engliffi, had learned, in fome meafure, to adapt
themfelves to our imperfeCt knowledge of their
language, by ufing the mofl common and even
corrupted expreffions in converfation with us j
whereas, when they talked with each other, and
ufed the feveral parts neceffary to propriety of
fpeech, they were hardly at all underftood by thofe
among us, who had made the greateft progrefs
m
192 A VOYAGE TO THE
in the knowledge of their vocabulary. A lift of
words was collected at Atooi, by the indefatigable
Mr. Anderfon, who embraced every opportunity
of rendering our voyage ufeful to thofe who
amufe themfelves in tracing the emigrations of
the various tribes that have peopled the globe,
by the mod convincing of all arguments, that
drawn from the coincidence of language.
How widely has this nation diffufed itfelf, in
fo many detached iflands, fo far diftant from each
other, in every quarter of the Pacific Ocean !
We find it, from New-Zealand, in the fouth, as
far as the Sandwich Illands to the northward ; and,
in another direction, from Eafter Ifland, to the
New Hebrides: that is, over an extent of fixty
degrees of latitude, or three .thoufand fix hundred
miles, north and fouth ; and eighty-three degrees
of longitude, or four thoufand nine hundred and
eighty miles, eaft and weft ! How much farther,
in either of thofe diredtions, its colonies reach, is
not known ; but, from what we are already ac-
quainted with, we are authorized in pronouncing
it to be the molt extenfive nation upon earth,
though, perhaps, not the molt numerous.
If the Sandwich Iflands had been dilcovered
at an early period, by the Spaniards, they would
doubtlefs have availed themfelves of fo excellent
a fituation, and have made ufe of Atooi, orfome
other of the iflands, as a place of refrelhment for
the (hips, that fail annually between Manilla and
Acapulco.
/
PACIFIC OCEAN* fpj
Acapulco. They lie almofl midway between the
laft mentioned place and Guam, one of the La-
drones, which is at prefent their only port in
travelling this valt ocean and it would not have
been a week’s fail out of their ordinary route, to
have touched at them. An acquaintance with
the Sandwich Ilies would alfo have been equally
favourable to our Buccaneers ; who have fome-
times paffed from the coalt of America to the
Ladrones, with a (lock of provifions and water
icarcely adequate to the fupport of life. Here
they might always have met with a plentiful fup-
ply, and have been within a month’s fail of the
very part of California, which the Manilla Ihip is
(obliged to make. How happy would Lord An-
fon have been, and what difficulties would he
have avoided, had he known that there was a
duller of illands, half way between America and
Tinian, where all his wants might have been ef-
fectually relieved !
VOL , II. — N° IQ.
O
C H A P,
194
A VOYAGE TO THE
CHAP. XIII.
Obfervations on the Longitude , Tides, Lie.— Proceed
on the Voyage — Weather remarkably mild as far
as the Latitude 440 Forth — Scarcity of Oceanic
Birds in the Northern Hemifphere— Beautiful
Sea-Animals defer ibed, J'uppofed by Mr. Ander-
fon to be a new Species of Onifcus — See the Coaft
of North America Defcription of the Country —
Difficulties atCape Foulweather — Stormy andtem-
pcftuous Weather — Strictures on Martin d’ Agui-
lar's River— Fallacy of Juan de Fuca's pretend-
ed Strait — An Inlet dij covered — The Ships an-
chor there , and are vifited by Numbers of the
Natives — Their Behaviour.
1 HE Difcovery having joined us, we flood
away to the northward, with a gentle gale
from the eaft. The tides are fo inconfiderable at
the Sandwich Elands, that, with the great furf
breaking againft the fhore, it was difficult, at all
times, to know whether we had high or low wa-
ter, or whether it ebbed or flowed. On thefouth
fide of Atooi, a current generally fet to the weft-
ward, or north-weftward. But, when we were at
anchor off Oneeheow, we found a current fetting
nearly north-weft and fouth-e ft, fix hours each
way. This was doubtlels a regular tide, and the
flood appeared to come from the north- weft.
But,
pacific ocean; *95
But, to avoid digreffion, on Saturday the 7th
of February, we were in the latitude of 29° north,
and in the longitude of 200° eaft, the wind veer-
ing to fouth-eaft. We fleered north-eaft and eaft
till the 1 2th, when the wind had veered round to
north-eaft, and eaft-north-eaft. We then tacked
and flood to the northward, being in the latitude
of 30° north, arid in the longitude of 206° 15'
eaft. In this advanced latitude, and even in the
winter feafon, we had oply begun to fed a fenfa-
tion of cold in the mornings and evenings ; a
proof of the equal and durable influence of the
heat of the fun, at all times, to 30° on each fide
the line. After that, the difproportion is known
to become very great. This muft be principally
attributed to the direction of the fun’s rays, in-
dependent of the bare diftance, which is not
equal to the effedt. On Thurfday the 19th of
February, the wind veered to fouth-eaft, and we
were again enabled to fleer to the eaft, inclining
a little to the north. On the 25th, we reached
the latitude of 420 30', and the longitude of 219°;
when we began to meet with the rock-weed,
mentioned in Lord Anfon’s voyage, by the name
of fea-leek, which is generally feen by the Ma-
nilla Ihips. Sometimes a piece of wood appear-
ed; but, if we had not known that we were near
the continent of North America, we might have
luppofed, from the few figns of vicinity of land
that we had feen, that we were not within fome
O 2 thou-
a Voyage to the
i 96
thou find leagues of any. Since we left Sandwich
Iflands, we had hardly beheld a bird, or any other
oceanic animal.
On the 1 ft of March, we had a calm day,
which was lucceeded by a wind from the north,
with which we ftood to the eaft, intending to
make land. We ought to have been near it, ac-
cording to the charts. Such moderate and mild
weather appeared to us very extraordinary, when
we were fo far north, and fo near an extenfive
continent, at this time of the year. The feafon
muft have been remarkably mild, for Sir Francis
Drake met with very fevere cold, about this la-
titude, even in the month of June *. Vifcaino,
indeed, who was in the fame part of the world,
in the depth of winter, hardly takes notice of the
cold, and mentions a ridge of fnowy mountains,
on this coaft, as fomething extraordinary f.
It is a lingular circumftance, that we fhould
meet with fo few birds, compared to thofe we
faw in the fame latitudes, to the fouth of the line.
This muft either proceed from a fcarcity of them,
or from a deficiency of refting-places. Hence
it may be concluded, that, in the fouthern he-
mifphere, beyond 40°, the fpecies are much more
numerous, and the iflands more plentifully fcat-
• See Sir Francis Drake’s Voyage, in Campbell’s Edition
of Harris, vol. i. p. 18.
f Vanegas’s Hill, of California, vol. ii. p. zzy,
tered.
r.
PACIFIC OCEAN. 197
tered, than anywhere near that latitude, between
the coalt of California and Japan.
On the morning of the 2d, during a calm,
part of the lea appeared to be covered with a kind
cfflime, and fome fmall lea animals were leen
fwimming about. Thofe which were moll con-
fpicuous, were of the gelatinous kind, almolt
globular; a lmaller fort had a white or fhining
appearance, and were in great abundance. Some
of the latter were put into a glafs cup, with fome
fait water; and, when in a prone fituatfon, they
appeared like fmall fcales or pieces of filver.
When they fwam about, which they did with
equal eafe in various directions, they emitted the
brighteft colours of the molt valuable gems, ac-
cording to their pofition reflecting the light.'
At one time they appeared pellucid, at another
difplaying the various tints of blue, from a fap-
phirine to a violet, mixed with a kind of ruby,
and glowing with fufficient ftrength to illuminate
the glafs and water. When the veflel was held
to the ftrongelt light, the tints appeared moll
vivid ; but almolt vanilhed when the animals
fubfided to the bottom, and they had then a
brownifh appearance. By candle-light, the co-
lour was, principally, a beautiful pale green, with
a kind of burnilhed glofs ; and, in the dark, it
faintly exhibited a glowing fire,
I hey are a new fpecies of onlfcus , and were
called, by Mr. Anderfon, onijcus fulgens$ being
O 3 Tup-
198
A VOYAGE TO THE
fuppofed to be an animal that contributes to that
lucid appearance, often obferved at fea, in the
night. I wo large birds fettled, this day, on the
water , near the drip. One was the proccllaria
maxima ; and the other, of little more than half
the magnitude of the former, appeared to be of
the albatrcfs kind. It was larger than a fea-eulh
but refembled it in other refpedts. About noon,
on the 6th, we beheld two feals, and feveral
whales ; and early the next morning, the long-
expedted coaft of New Albion * was feen, at the
diftance of ten or twelve leagues, extending from
north-eaft to fouth-eaft. At noon, we were in
the latitude of 440 33' north, and in the longitude
of 235' 201 eaft, and the land about eight leagues
diftant.
We had now feventy--three fathoms water, over
a muddy bottom, and found ninety fathoms about
a league farther off. The land, which was of a
moderate height, appeared to be diverfified with
hills and vallies, and principally covered with
wood. No very ftriking objedt, however, pre-
sented itfelf, except an high hill, with a flat fum-
mit, which bore eaft from us at noon. The
land formed a point at the northern extreme,
which Captain Cook named Cape Foulweather ,
from the exceeding bad weather we afterwards
met with.
» # t
* So named by Sir Francis Drake.
After
PACIFIC GCEAN.
m
After variable light airs and calms, at eight
o’clock in the evening of the 7th, a breeze fprung
up at fouth-weft. We hood to the north-weft,
under an eafy fail, intending to range along the
coaft at day-light. But, the next morning, at
four, the wind having .Shifted to north-weft, it
blew in fqualls, with rain. Till near ten o’clock,
our courfe was north-eaft ; but, not being able
to make any progrefs on this tack, and feeing
nothing that had the appearance of an harbour,
we tacked, and ftood off fouth-weft. Cape Foul-
weather, at this time, bore north-eaft by north,
diftant about eight leagues.
In the evening of the 8th, the wind veered to
the north-weft, with fqualls, hail, and fleet ;
and, the weather being hazy and thick, we ftood
out to fea till about noon the next day, when we
ftood in again for the land, which we faw at two
in the afternoon, bearing eaft-north-eaft. In the
evening, the wind veered more to the weft, and
the weather grew worfe, which obliged 11s to tack
and ftand off till about four the next morning;,
when we ftood in again. In the afternoon, at
four, we difcovered the land, which, at fix, was
about eight leagues diftant. Here we tacked,
and founded, but could not reach the ground
with a line of one hundred and fixty fathoms.
We ftood off till near midnight, and then flood
in again. At half paft fix, the next morning, we
were about three leagues trom the iand. oceing
O 4 nothing
O
200
A VOYAGE TO THE
nothing like a harbour, and the weather continu-
ing unfettled, we tacked and ftretched off fouth-
wcff, having then fifty-five fathoms water.
The land which we approached, when we tack-
ed, is moderately high, but, in many places, it
rifes ftill higher within. It is diverfified with
hills and rifing grounds, many of which are co-
vered with tall ftraight trees ; and others, which
were not fo high, grew in fpots, like clumps or
coppices ; but the fpaces between, and the fides
of the rifing grounds, were clear.
Though, perhaps, as a fummer profpeft, this
might be very agreeable, yet, at this feafon, it had
an uncomfortable appearance, the bare grounds
along the coaft being covered with fnow, which
feemed to lie in abundance between the hills and
rifing grounds ; and in many places, towards the
fea, had, at a diftance, the appearance of white
cliffs. On the rifing grounds, the fnow v'as thin-
ner fpread; and farther inland, there feemed to
be none at all. Hence it might, perhaps, be
concluded, that the fnow which we had fecn to-
wards the fea, had fallen the preceding r.mht •
which was, indeed, the coldeft we had experi-
enced fince our arrival on that coaft ; and a kind
of fleet fometimes fell.
The coaft appeared almoft ftraight in every
part, not having any opening or inlet, and ter-
minated in a kind of white fandy beach ; though
it was imagined by fome on board, that fuch ap-
pearance
PACIFIC OCEAN,
2.01
pearance was owing to the fnow. Each extreme
of the land (loot out into a point; the northern
one was that which we had feen on the 7th, and
therefore Captain Cook called it Cafe Perfetua ,
Its latitude is 440 6' north, and its longitude
-35° 51' eaft. The fouthern extreme the Com-
modore named Cafe Gregory. It lies in the lati-
tude of 430 30', and in the longitude of 235° 37 '
eaft. This point is rendered remarkable, by the
land of it rifing immediately from the fea, to a
tolerable height, and that on each fide of it is
very low. We flood off till almofl one in the
afternoon, and then tacked and flood in, hoping,
in the night, to have the wind off from the land.
We were, however, miflaken, for, at five o’clock,
it veered to the weft and fouth-wefl, which in-
duced us once more to Hand out to fea.
Cape Perpetua now bore north-eafl by north;
and the farthefl land to the fouth of Cape Gre-
gory, bore fouth by eaft, diflant about ten or
twelve leagues. Its latitude will therefore be
430 to', and its longitude 2350 55' eaft. This is
nearly the fituation of Cape Blanco, difcovered
the 19th of January, 1603, by Martin d’Aguilar.
It is remarkable that, in this very latitude. Geo-
graphers have placed a large entrance or ftrait,
afcribing the difcovery of it to the fame naviga-
tor; whereas nothing more is mentioned in his
voyage, than his having difcovered a large river
%
102 A VOYACE TO THE
in this fituation, which he would have entered,
but was hindered by the currents.
The wind was now very unfettled, and blew
in fqualls, with fnow fhowers. At mid ight,
it fhifted to weft-north-weft, and prefently in-
creafed to a very hard gale, with heavy fqualls,
and fleet, or fnow. We had not a choice now,
but were obliged to ftretch to the fouthward, to
get clear of the coaft. This was done under
more fail than the fhips could bear with fafety,
but it was abfolutely neceflary to avoid the more
imminent danger of being forced on fhore. This
gale abated at eight o’clock in the morning of
the 13th, and then we ftood in again for the land.
The wind remained at weft and north-weft.
Storms, breezes, and calms, alternately fucceed-
ed each other, till the morning of the aift, when
a breeze fprung up at fouth-weft. This being
accompanied with fair weather, we fleered north-
eafterly, hoping to fall in with the land, beyond
where we had been tofled about for the preceding
fortnight. In the evening, the wind fhifted to
the weftward, and the next morning, about eight
o’clock, we beheld the land at the diftance of
about nine leagues. Our latitude was now 47 0
north, and our longitude 23 50 10' eaft. We
ftood to the north, with a fine breeze, till near
feven in the evening, when we tacked, in order
to wait for day-light. We were now in forty-
eiofit fathoms water, and four leagues from the
land.
PACIFIC OCEAN. 20J
land, extending from north to fouth-eaft; and a
fmall round hill, which we fuppofed to be an
ifland, bore north three quarters eaft, at the dis-
tance of about fix or feven leagues. It feemed to
be of a tolerable height, and could but juft be
feen from the deck.
There appeared to be a fmall opening between
this fuppofed ifland, and the northern extreme of
the land; we therefore entertained fome hopes
of finding an harbour; but thefe hopes gradu-
ally vanifhed as we grew nearer ; and, at length,
we were almoft convinced, that the opening was
clofed by low land. The Commodore, for this
reafon, named the point of land to the north of
it. Cape Flattery. Its latitude is 48° 15' north,
and its longitude 2 350 3' eaft.
All the land upon this part of the coaft, is of
a pretty equal height, is principally covered with
wood, and has a very fertile appearance. In this
very latitude. Geographers have placed the pre-
tended ftrait of Juan de Fuca. But nothing of
that kind prefented itfelf to our view, nor is it
probable that any fuch thing ever exifted. We
flood to the fouthward.till midnight, and then
tacked, and, with a gentle breeze at fouth-weft,
fleered to the north-weft, intending, at day-light,
to ftand in for the land. But, before that time,
we had a very hard gale, with rain, right on
fhore ; inftead, therefore, of running in for the
}and, we endeavoured to get an offing, or, at
leaft.
204
A VO Y ACE TO THE
lead, to preferve that which we had already got,
7. oe iouth-weft wind, however, did not continue
long, for it veered again to the weft before night.
I hus were we perpetually encountering with
ftrong weft and north-weft winds. In an even-
ing, the wind would fometimes become mode-
rate, and veer louthward j but this was a certain
prelude to a ftorm, which blew the hardeft at
ibuth-iouth-eaft, and was generally accompanied
with rain and fleet. In the courfe of fix hours,
it was ufually fucceeded by a gale from the north-
weft, which introduced fair weather. About nine
o’clock in the morning, of Sunday the 29th, we
again law the land, the neareft part about fix
leagues diftant. We were now in the latitude of
490 29/ northj and in the longitude of 2320 29'
eaft.
I he face of the country was very different
from that of the parts which we had before feen i
numbers of lofty mountains prefented themlelves
to our view, whofe lummits were covered with
fnow. The vallies between them, and the land
towards the coaft, were covered with high ftraight
trees, that appeared like a vaft foreft. A low
point was formed, at the fouth-eaft extreme of
the land, off which are feveral breakers, occafi-
oned by fome funken rocks. It was therefore
called Point Breakers. Its latitude is 490 15'
north, and its longitude 2330 20' eaft. The la-
titude of the other extreme is about 50°, and the
longitudes
pacific ocean.-
0.0$
longitude 2320. This laft was named Woody
Feint. It is high land, and proje&s to the fouth-
weft.
Between thefe two points, a large bay is form-
ed, which the Commodore called Hope Bay hop-*
ing, as he faid, to find in it a good harbour ;
and the event proved that he was not miftaken*
As we approached the coaft, we faw the appear-
ance of two inlets ; one of which was in the north-
weft, and the other in the north-eaft corner of
the bay. We bore up for the latter, and paffed
fome breakers about a league from the fhore.
Half a league without them, we had nineteen and
twenty fathoms water; but, after we had pafied
them, the depth increafed to fifty fathoms ; and
farther in, the ground was unfathomable with the
greateft length of line.
Though appearances were in our favour, we
were not yet certain that there were any inlets ;
but, being in a deep bay. Captain Cook refolv-
cd to anchor, in order to endeavour to get fome
water, which we began to be much in need of.
As we advanced, however, the exiftence of the
inlet no longer remained doubtful. About five
o’clock, when we reached the weft point of it,
we were becalmed for fome time. In this fixa-
tion, the Commodore ordered all the boats to be
hoifted out, in order to tow the fhips in. Pre-
sently a frefh breeze fprung up at north-weft, with
which we ftretched up into an arm of the inlet,
4 which
A VOYAGE TO THE
to 6
which ran in to the north-eaft. Here we were
again becalmed, and found it neceffary to anchor
in eighty-five fathoms water, and fo near the land
as to be able to reach it with a liawfer. The Di re-
covery was becalmed before (lie got within the
arm, where Ihe anchored in feventy fathoms
water.
As foon as we approached the inlet, we per-
ceived the coaft to be inhabited ; and three ca-
noes came off to the fhip, at the place where we
were firft becalmed ■, in one of which were two
men, in another fix, and in the other ten. Ad-
vancing pretty near us, a perfon ftood up in one
of the two laft, and fpoke for a confiderable time,
inviting us, as we fuppofed by his geftures, to go
alhore ; and, at the fame time, continued ftrew-
ing handfuls of feathers towards us. Some of
his companions alfo threw a red powder in the
fame manner.
The perfon who was the orator upon this oc-
cafion, was clothed with the fkin of fome ani-
mal, and held fomething in each hand which rat-
tled as he ihook it. At length, grown weary
with his repeated exhortations, of which we could
not comprehend a word, he became quiet and
the others, in their turn, had fomething to fay
to us ; but their fpecches were neither fo long,
nor fo vehement as that of the other. The hair
of two or three of thefe people was ilrewed over
with
pacific ocean. 2,0/
with fmall white feathers j and that of others,
with laro-e ones, ftuck into different parts.
The tumultuous noife having ceafed, they lay
at a fmall diflance from the fhip, converfing to-
gether with much eafe and compofure, without
fhewing the leaft diftruft or lurprize. Some of
them role, occafionally, and faid fomething aloud,
after the manner of their firft harangues ; and
one, in particular, fung a mod agreeable air,
accompanied with a great degree of melody and
foftnefs ; the word haela being frequently repeat-
ed as the burden of the fong.
A breeze fpringing up foon after, brought us
clofer to the fhore, when the canoes began to
vifit us in great numbers ; having had, at one
time, no lefs than thirty-two of them about the
fhip, containing from three to feven or eight per-
form each, and of both fexes. Several of thefe
alfo flood up and fpake aloud, ufing the fame
geftures as our firft vifitors. One canoe particu-
larly attradled our obfervation, by a peculiar
head, which had a bird’s eye, and an enormous
large beak, painted on it. The perfon who was
in it, and who appeared to be a chief, was equally
remarkable for his fingular appearance; having
a large quantity of feathers hanging from his
head, and being painted or fmeared in a very ex-
traordinary manner. In his hand he had a carved
bird of wood, of the fize of a pigeon, with which
he often rattled, like the perfon before- mention-
3 ed.
A VOYAGE, SCC.
2oS
ed, and was equally vociferous in his harangue^
which was accompanied with many exprefiive
geftures. Though our vifitors were fo peaceable,
that they could .not be fufpedted of any hoftile
intention, not any of them could be prevailed
upon to come on board. They were very ready,
however, to part with any thing they had, and
received whatever we offered them in exchange ;
but were more folicitous after iron, than any of
our other articles of commerce ; appearing to be
no Grangers to the ufe of that valuable metal.
We were followed, by many of the canoes, to
our anchoring-place j and a group, confifting of
about ten or a dozen of them, continued along-
fide the Refolution the greateft part of the night.
Hence we flattered ourfelves, that we were fo
comfortably fituated, as to be able to get ali our
wants l'upplied, and forget the delays and hard-
ihips we had experienced, in almoft a conftant
fucceflion of adverfe winds and tempeftuous wea-
ther, ever fince our arrival upon this coalh
A VOY-
A
VOYAGE
*T O THE
PACIFIC OCEAN.
BOOK IV.
TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES OF NORTH-
AMERICA; discoveries ON THAT coast and
THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, AND RE-
TURN SOUTHWARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
CHAP. I.
Arrival at the Sound — Moor in an excellent Har-
bour— Vifited by great Numbers of the Natives ,
who are an inoffenfive Race of People — Variety
of Articles brought to Barter , particularly hu-
man Skulls— Mifchievous ‘Thefts committed —
The Obfervatories erclted on a Rock — Alfa a
Forge erebled — Alarmed at feeing the Natives
arm themfelves — Diftant Tribes not permitted by
the Natives to traffic with us — Tempefluous
Weather — A Survey of the Sound — Friendly Be-
haviour of the Natives of one of the Villages —
Treatment received from an inhofpitable Chief —
Greeted with a Song by young Women — A fecond
Vifit to one of the Villages — Grafs purchafed—
Departure of the Ships.
HAVING happily found fuch excellent
fhelter for our fhips, in an inlet whofe coafts
appeared to be inhabited by an inoffenfive race
VOL. II,—— N° 10. P of
210
A VOYAGE TO THE
of people, we lofb no time, after coming to an-
chor, in learching for a commodious harbour,
where we might be ftationed during our conti-
nuance in the Sound. Upon this fervice, Cap-
tain Cook fent three armed boats, under the com-
mand of Mr. King; and went himfelf, in a fmall
boat, on the fame bufinefs. He had no diffi-
culty in finding what he wanted; for, on the
north-weft of the arm, and at a fmall diftance
from the fhip's, he found a convenient friug cove,
perfe&ly adapted to our purpofe. Mr. King was
alfo fuccefsful, and found a ftill better harbour,
lying on the north-weft fide of the land. It
would, however, have required more time to take
the fliips thither, than to the cove where the
Captain had been ; therefore his choice was de-
termined in favour of the latter fituation. But,
apprehending that we could not tranfportourfhips
to it, and moor them properly, before night had
overtaken us, he thought it prudent to continue
where we were till the next morning;.
Plenty of canoes, filled with the inhabitants,
were about the fhips the whole day ; and a re-
ciprocal trade was commenced between us, which
was conducted with the ftricteft harmony and in-
tegrity on both Tides. Their articles of com-
merce were the fkins of various animals ; fuch
as bears, fea-otters, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons,
martins, and pole-cats. They alfo produced
garments made of fkins s and another kind of
i clothing,
pacific ocean.
2,1 1
clothing, fabricated from the bark of a tree, or
a plant refembling hemp. Befides thefe articles,
they had bows, arrows, and fpears ; fifli-hooks,
*and various kinds of inftruments ; wooden vizors,
reprefenting horrid figures ; afortofwoollcn-ftufi;
carved work ; beads ; and red ochre . alfo feveial
little ornaments of thin brais and iron, re fern -
bling an horfe-fhoe, which they wear pendant at
their nofes. They had likewife feveral pieces of
iron fixed to handles, fomewhat refembling chif-
iels. From their being in pofTefliOn of thefe me-
tals, it was natural for us to infer, that they muff
either have been vifited before by perfons of fome
civilized nation, or had connections with thofe
on their own continent, who had fome commu-
nication with them.
■ Among all the articles, however, which they
expofed to fale, the molt extraordinary were hu-
man fkulls, and hands, with fome of the flefh re-
maining on them, which they acknowledged they
had been feeding on ; and fome of them, indeed,
bore evident marks of their having been upon
the fire. From this circumftance, it was but too
apparent, that the horrid practice of devouring
their enemies, is praCtifed here, as much as at
New-Zealand, and other South-fea iflands. For
the various articles they brought, they received
in exchange, knives, chiffels, nails, looking-
glaffes, buttons, pieces of iron and tin, or any
kind of metal. They had not much inclination
P 2 for
212
A VOYAGE TO THE
for glafs-beads, and rejefted every kind of
cloth.
The next day was employed in hauling our
flips into the cove, where they were moored.
We found, on heaving up the anchor, notwith-
flanding the great depth of water, that rocks were
at the bottom. Thefe had greatly injured the
cable, as well as the haulers that were carried
out to warp the flip into the cove; confequently
the whole bottom was ftrewed with rocks. The
flip was now become very leaky in her upper
works ; the carpenters were therefore ordered to
caulk her, and to repair any other defects they
might difcover.
In the courfe of this day (the 31ft of March)
the news of our arrival brought vaft numbers of
the natives about our flips. At one time we
counted above a hundred canoes, each of which,
on an average, had five people on board; few
containing lefs than three ; many having feven,
eight, or nine ; and one was manned with feven-
teen. Many of thefe were new vifitors, which
we difcovered by their orations and ceremonies
when they approached the flips.
If they, at firft, had apprehended that we meant
to be hoftile, their fears were now removed ; for
they ventured on board the flips, and mixed with
our people with the utmoft freedom and fami-
liarity. We difcovered, however, by this inter-
courfe, that they were as fond of pilfering as any
wc
PACIFIC OCEAN.
213
,ve had met with during our voyage : and they
were much more mifchievous than any of the
other thieves we had found ; for, having fharp
inftruments in their pofieffion, they could, the
inftant that our backs were turned, cut a hook
from a tackle, or a piece of iron from a rope.
Befides other articles, we loft feveral hooks in
this manner, one of which weighed between
twenty and thirty pounds. They ftripped our
boats of every morfel of iron that was worth tak-
ing away, though fome of our men were always
left in them as a guard. They were, indeed, fo
dexterous in effecting their purpofes, that one
fellow would contrive to amufe our people at one
end of the boat, while another was forcing off
the iron-work at the other. If an article that
had been ftolen, was immediately miffed, the
thief was eafily detected, as they were fond of
impeaching each other. But the prize was al-
ways reluctantly given up by the guilty perfonj
and fometimes compulfive means were obliged
to be exercifed for that purpofe.
Our Ihips being lafely moored, we proceeded,
the next day, to other neceffary buffnefs. The
cbfervatories were taken afhore, and placed upon
t
a rock on one fide of the cove, not far from the
Refolution. A party of men was ordered to cut
wood, and clear a place for watering. Having
plenty of pine-trees here, others were employed
in brewing fpruce-beer. The forge was allb
P 3 ereCted
2,14
avoyace to the
ereifted to make the necefiary iron-work for re-
pairing the fore-maft, which had one of the bibs
defective, and was otherwife incomplete.
We were daily vifited by a confiderable num-
ber of the natives ; and, among them, we fre-
quently faw new faces. They had a fingular
mode of intioducing themfelves on their firft ap-
pearance. They paddled, with their utmoft
ftrength and activity, round both the ffiips ; a
chief, all this time. Handing up with a fpear in
his hand, and fpeaking, or rather bawling, moll
Vociferoufly.
Sometimes the face of this orator was covered
with a malic, reprefenting either a human coun-
tenance, or that of fome other animal j and, in-
ftead of a Jpear, lie had a kind of rattle in his hand.
Having made this ceremonious circuit round the
fhip, they would come along-fkie, and then be-
gin to traffic with us. Frequently, indeed, they
would firft entertain us with a long, in which their
whole company joined, and produced a very
agreeable harmony. During thefe vifits, our
principal care was to guard againft their thievery.
We had, however, in the njorning of the 4th
of April, a very ferious alarm. Our party, who
were employed on fhore in cutting wood and
filling water, oblerved, that the natives, in all
quarters, were arming themfelves in the bell
manner they were able j and that thofe who had
not proper weapons, were collecling Hicks and
Hones.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
215
ftones. Hearing this, we thought it neceffary to
arm alfo ; but, being refolved to aft upon the
defenfive, the Commodore ordered all our work-
men to repair to the rock, on which our obfer-
vatorics had been placed, leaving the fuppofed
enemy in polleflion of the ground where they had
affembled, which was within about a hundred
yards of the Refolution’s (tern.
Our danger, however, was only imaginary ;
for thefe hoftile preparations were direfted againft
a body of their own countrymen, who were ad-
vancing to attack them. Our friends of the
Sound, perceiving our apprehenfions, exerted
their bed endeavours to convince us that this was
really the cafe. We faw they had people look-
ing out, on both fides of the cove, and canoes
were frequently difpatched between them and
the main body. The adverfe party, on board
of about a dozen large canoes, at length drew
up in line of battle, off the fouth-point of the
cove, a negociation for the reftoration of peace
having been commenced. In conduftino- the
treaty, feveral people in canoes paffed between
the two parties, and fome debates enfued. At
length the matter in difpute appeared to be ad-
jufted ; but the ftrangers were not permitted to
approach the fhips, nor to have any intercourfe
or dealings with us,
We were probably the occafion of the quar-
rel j the ftrangers, perhaps, infilling on having a
? 4 right
A VOYAGE TO THE
5 1 1>
right of fharing in the advantages of a trade with
us ; and our firft friends refolving to engrofs
us entirely to themfelves. We were convinced
of this on many other occafions ; nay, even among
thole who lived in the Sound, the weaker were
often obliged to fubmit to the ftronger party,
and were plundered of every thing, without even
attempting to make any refiftance.
In the afternoon we refumed our work, and,
the next day, rigged the fore-mall ; the head of
which not being large enough for the cap, the
carpenter was ordered to fill up the vacant fpace.
In examining the Hate of the maft-head for this
purpofe, both cheeks were difcovered to be rotten ;
infomuch that there was not a pofiibility of re-
pairing them. We were therefore obliged to get
thejnaft out, and to fupply it with new ones.
Thus, when almolt ready for fea, all our work
was to be done over again, and an additional re-
pair was necefTary to be undertaken, which would
require much time to be completed. It was,
however, fortunate, that thele defedts fhould be
difcovered, when wo were lb commodioully fitu-
ated, as to be able to procure the materials that were
requifite. For, in the cove where our fhips lay,
there were fome fimall feafoned trees, perfectly
adapted for our purpofe ■, and two newr cheeks
were immediately made from one of thefe. In
the morning of the yth of April, having got the
fore-mall out, we hauled it afhore, and the car-
penters
PACIFIC OCEAN.
■217
penters were fet to work upon it. Some of our
lower Handing rigging being much decayed, the
Commodore embraced the opportunity, while
the fore-maft was repairing, of ordering a new
fet. of main-rigging to be fitted, and the foie-
ri°r°'ino' to be improved.
From our putting into the Sound, till the 7th
of April, the weather had been remarkably fine ;
but, in the morning of the 8th, the wind blew
frelh at fouth-ead, accompanied with hazy wea-
ther and rain ; it increafed in the afternoon, and
in the evening it blew extremely hard. It came in
heavy fqualls, right into the cove, from over the
high land on the oppofite fhore ; and, though the
{hips were well moored, they were in a dangerous
fituation.
Though thefe tempeftuous blafts fucceeded
each other quickly, they were of fhort duration,
and, in the intervals, we had a perfect calm.
Another misfortune now befel us. On board the
Refolution, the mizen was the only mad that now
remained rigged, with its top-maft up. 1 he
former was too defedlive to fupport the latter du-
ring thefe fqualls, and gave way at the head,
under the rigging. The gale abated about eight
o’clock; but the rain continued, al mod without
intermiffion, for feveral days; during which time,
a tent was eredted over the fore-mad, that the
carpenters might be enabled to proceed in their
labours with fome degree of convenience.
The
A VO V AGE TO THE
ai8
The natives were not difcouraged, by this bad
weather, from making us daily vifits ; and, in
our fituation, fuch vifits were very acceptable to
us. They frequently brought us a fupply of filh,
when we were unable to catch any with a hook
and line, and we had not a convenient place to
draw a net. I he fifh they brought us were fmall
cod, and a fmall kind of bream, or fardine.
On the nth the main-rigging was fixed and got
over head, notwithstanding the rainy weather j
aiid, the next day, we took down the niizen-maft,
the head of which was fo rotten, that it dropped
oft in the flings.
We received a vifit, in the evening, from a
tribe of natives whom we had not feen before ;
and who, in general, made a better appearance
than our old friends. The Commodore con-,
d uded them into the cabin, but there w?as not
an objed that demanded their attention j all our
novelties were looked on with indifference, ex-
cept by a very few, who fliewed a certain degree
of curiofity. The next day, a party of our men
went into the woods, and cut down a tree, of
which a mizen-maft was to be made. The day
after it was conveyed to the place where the car-
penters were at work upon the fore-maft. The
wind, in the evening, veered to the louth-eaft,
and blew a very hard gale, attended with rain,
till eight o’clock the next morning; at which
time it abated, and veered again to the weft.
The
\
PACIFIC OCEAN. 21$
The fore-maft being now finiffied, we hauled it
along fide; but, on account of the bad weather,
could not get it in till the afternoon. We were
expeditious in rigging it, while the carpenters
were employed on the mizen-maft on fhore. On
the 1 6th, when they had made considerable pro-
grefs in it, they difcovered that the tree on which
they were at work, was wounded, owing, it
was imagined, to fome accident in cutting it
down. It therefore became necdfary to procure
another tree out of the woods, on which occa-
fion, all hands were employed above half a day.
During thefe operations, many of the natives
were about the {hips, gazing on with an expref-
five furprize, which, from their general inatten-
tion, we did not expedt. A party of Grangers,
in feven or eight canoes, came into the cove on
the 1 8th, and after looking at us for fome time, re-
tired. We apprehended that our old friends,
who, at this time, were more numerous about us
than our new vifitors, would not fuffer them to
have any dealings with us. It was evident, in-
deed, that the neighbouring inhabitants engrof-
fed us entirely to themfelves j and that they car-
ried on a traffic with more diftant tribes, in thofe
articles they had received from us : for they
frequently difappeared for four or five days to-
gether, and returned with frefn cargoes of cu-
riofities and fkins.
Such
A voyage to the
Such of the natives as vifited us daily, were
the moft beneficial to us ; for, after difpofing of
their trifles, they employed themfelves in fifhing,
and we always partook of what they caught. We
alfo procured from them a confiderable quantity
of good animal oil, which they brought to us in
bladders. Some, indeed, attempted to cheat us,
by mixing water with the oil ; and, once or twice,
they fo far impofed upon us, as to fill their blad-
ders with water only. Bur, it was better for us
to wink at thefe impofitions, than fuffer them
to produce a quarrel ; for our articles of traffic
chiefly confided of trifles, and we found it dif-
ficult to produce a conftant fupply even of thefe.
Beads, and fuch like toys, of which we had
fome remaining, were not highly cftimated. Me-
tal was principally demanded by our vifitors and,
brafs h:-.d now fupplanted iron, being fought
after, with fuch eagernefs, that, before we left
the Sound, hardly a bit of it was to be found in
the ffiips, except what conftituted a part of our
necefifary inftruments. Suits of cloaths were
dripped of their buttons ; bureaus of their fur-
niture ; kettles, canifters, and candlefticks, all
went to rack j fo that our American friends pro-
cured from us a greater variety cf things, than
any other nation we had vifited.
Having fiad a fortnight’s bad weather, Sunday
the 19th being a fair day, we embraced the op-
portunity of getting up the top-mails and yards,
an
pacific OCEAN. 2,2.1
and of fixing up the rigging. Moft of our heavy
work being now finifhed, the Commodore fet out
the next morning to furvey the Sound ; and, going
lirft to the weft point, he difcovered a large vil-
lage, and, before it, a very fnug harbour, with
from nine to four fathoms water.
The inhabitants of this village, who were nu-
merous, many of whom the Commodore was no
ftranger to, received him with great courteiy,
every one prefting him to enter his apartment ;
for feveral families have habitations under the
fame roof. He politely accepted the invitations,
and the hofpi table friends whom he vifited, tefti-
jfied every mark of civility and refpedt.
Women were employed, in many of thefe ha-
bitations, in making dreftes of the bark or plant
already mentioned, and executed their bufinefs
much like the inhabitants of New Zealand.
Others were bufy in opening fardines ; large Ihoals
of which we have feen brought on fhore, and mea-
fured out to feveral people, who carried them
home, where they performed the operation of.
curing them, which is done by fmoke-drying.
They are hung upon fmall rods; at firft, about a
foot over the fire ; they are then removed higher
and higher, to make room for others. When
dried, they are clofely packed in bales, and the
bales covered with mats. Thus they are pre-
ferved till they are wanted ; and they are not un-
pleafant food. They alfo cure cod and other
3 large
22 2
A VOYAGE TO THE
large filh in the fame manner; but thefe are fome-
times dried in the open air.
Leaving this village, the Commodore pro-
ceeded up the weft fide of the Sound. For near
three miles he law feveral fmall iflands. To fituated
as to form fome convenient harbours, the depths
being from thirty to feven fathoms. About two
leagues within the Sound, on the fame fide, art
arm runs in the diredtion of north-north-weft, and
another in the fame direction' about two miles
further.
About a mile above the fecond arm, he found
the ruins of a village. The framings of the houfes
remained ftanding, but the boards or roofs were
taken away. Behind this delerted village is a
imall plain, covered with the largeft pine-trees
that the Commodore had ever feen. This was
indeed lingular, as moft of the elevated ground on
this fide of the Sound appeared rather naked.
Pafting from this place to the eaft fide of the
Sound, Captain Cook found, what he had before
imagined, that it was an ifiand under which the
fliips lay ; and that many fmaller ones lay feat-
tered on the weft fide of it. Upon the main land,
oppofite the north end of our ifiand, the Com-
modore obferved a village, and landed there ;
but he was not fof politely received by the inha-
bitants, as by thole of the other village he had
vifited. This cold reception was occafioned by
one lurly chief, who would not buffer the Com-
modore
pacific ocean.
223
modore to enter their houfes, but followed him
wherever he went ; making e'xpreflive figns that
he was impatient for him to be gone. Captain
Cook attempted, but in vain, to footh him with
prefentsj for, though he did not refufe them, he
continued the fame kind of behaviour. But, not-
withdanding this treatment from the inhofpitable
chief, fome of the young women expeditioufly
apparelled themfelves in their bed, afiembled in
a body, and gave us a hearty welcome to the vil-
lage, "by joining in an agreeable fong. Evening
now drawing on, Captain Cook proceeded for the
(hips round the north-end of the lfiand.
When he returned on board, he was informed
that, in his abfence, fome ftrangers, in two or
three large canoes, had made a vifit to the fhips ;
from whom our people underdood, by figns, that
they had come from the fouth-ead. They brought
with them feveral garments, fkins, and other ar-
ticles, which they bartered for fome ot ours. But
the mod remarkable circumdance was, that two
filver table-fpoons were purchafed of them by our
people, which appeared to be ot Spanifh manu-
facture. They were worn round the neck of one
of thefe vifitors, by way of ornament.
On the aid, the mizen-mad was got in and
rigged, and the carpenters ordered to make a
new fore-top-mad, to replace that which had been
carried away. A number of drangers vifited us
about eight o’clock the next morning, in twelve
or
224 a VOYAGE TO i'HE
or thirteen canoes. They came from the fouth-
ward 3 and when they had turned the point of the
cove3 they drew up in a body, where they re-
mained about half an hour, at the diltance of two
hundred yards from the fhips. We imagined, at
firft, they were afraid to approach ; but in this we
were miftaken, tor they were only making prepa-
rations for an introductory ceremony.
At length they advanced towards the fhips, all
landing up in their canoes, and began to fingi
Some of their fongs were flow and folemn, in
which they were joined by the whole body 3 others
weie in quicker time, and their notes were regu-
larly accompanied by the motions of their hands,
their paddles beating in concert on the Tides of
the canoes 3 and they, at the fame time, exhi-
bited the moft expreffive geftures. They re-
mained filent, for a few feconds, after the con-
clufion of each fong, and then began again, fre-
quently pronouncing the word hooee as a kind of
chorus.
Having thus favoured us with a fpecimen of
their mufic, with which we were highly enter-
tained for half an hour, they came nearer the fhips
and bartered with us. We now perceived that
fome of our old friends from the Sound were
among them, who managed for the Grangers in
the traffic between us and them.
Thefe vifitors being gone, the Captains Cook
and Clerke went with two boats to the village at
the
PACIFIC OCEAtf. 225
the weft point, where Captain Cook had been two
days before, and had obferved that plenty of grafs
was to be had near it; and it was neceflary to get
a fupply of this, for the few remaining goats and
Iheep which were ftill on board. They expe-
rienced the fame welcome reception that Captain
Cook had met with before ; and, foon after they
were afliore, the Commodore ordered fome of his
people to begin cutting ; not imagining that the
natives would objecft to our furnifhing ourfelves
with what could not be of any ufe to them, though
efientially neceffary for us. In this, however, he
was miftaken, for as foon as our men began cut-
ting the grafs, fome of the inhabitants would not
permit them to proceed, faying, “ makook ;*
which fignified that we muft buy it firft.
The Commodore, at this time, was in one of
the houfes; but, hearing of this, he repaired im-
mediately to the field, where he found about a
dozen claimants of different parts of the grafs
that grew on the premifes. The Commodore
treated with them for it, and having complied
with the terms of his purchafe, thought we had
now full liberty to cut wherever we pleafed.
Here he was again miftaken; for he had fo libe-
rally paid the firft pretended proprietors, that
frefh demands were made from others; fo that it
almoft appeared that every fingle blade of grafs
had a feparate owner ; and fo many of them were
to be fatisfied, that his pockets prefently became
Vol. II.— n° 10. empty.
aa6
A voyage to the
empty. When they were, however, convinced
that he had nothing more to give, they ceafed to
be importunate, and we were permitted to cut
where we pleafed, and as much as we pleafed.
It is worthy of obfervation, that we never met
with any uncivilized nation, or tribe, who pof-
feffed fuch drift notions of their having an exclu-
five property in the produce of their country, as
the inhabitants of this Sound. They even wanted
our people to pay for the wood and water that
were carried on board. Had Captain Cook been
prefent when thefe demands were made, he would
doubtlefs have complied with them j but our
workmen thought differently, and paid little or
no attention to fuch claims. The natives think-
ing we were determined to pay nothing, at length
ceafed to apply. But they frequently took occa-
fion to remind us, that their efteem for us had
induced them to make us a prefent of wood and
water.
While they remained at this village, Mr. Web-
ber, who attended the two Captains thither, made
a drawing of every thing that was thought cu-
rious, both within doors and without. This he
was well enabled to do, as he had an excellent
opportunity of infpefting, narrowly, the con-
ftruftion of their buildings, their furniture, and
implements or utenfils, as well as the mod ftriking
peculiarities of the modes of living of the inha-
bitants. Having, at length, completed all their
l • opera-
Pacific ocean. itj
/
Operations at this village, the natives and the two
Captains took a friendly leave of each other, and
we returned to the fhips in the afternoon. The
23d, 24th, and 25 th of April were employed in
preparing to put to fea; the fails were bent; the
obfervatories and other articles removed from the
fhore ; and both fhips put into a proper condition
for failinor.
O
Thus prepared, we intended to have put to fea
on the morning of the 26th, but having both
wind and tide againft us, we were under a necefiity
of waiting till noon ; when a calm fucceeded the
fouth-wefi: wind, and the tide, at the fame time,
turning in our favour, we towed the fhips out of
the cove. We had variable airs and. calms till
about four in the afternoon, when a breeze fprung
up, attended with thick hazy weather.
The mercury in the barometer funk uncom-
monly low, and we had every appearance of an
approaching ftorm from the fouthward. In this
fituation Captain Cook hefitated, for a fhort time,
(as night was then approaching) whether he
fhould fail immediately, or ftay till the next
morning. But his anxiety to proceed upon the
voyage, and the fear of lofing fo good an oppor-
tunity of getting out of the Sound, operated more
flrongly upon his mind than the apprehenfion of
danger, and he refolved to put to fea.
We were attended by the natives till we were
almoft out of the Sound ; fome in their canoes,
0^2 and
128 A VOYAGE TO THE
and others on board the fhips. One of the chiefs,
who had particularly attached himfelf to the Com-
modore, was among the lafl who parted from us.
The Commodore, a little time before he went,
made him a fmall prefent ; for which he received,
in return, a beaver-fkin of a much fuperior value.
This occafioned him to make fome addition to
his prefent, which pleafed the chief fo highly,
that he prefented to the Commodore the beaver-
fkin cloak which he then wore, and of which he
was particularly fond.
Struck with this inflance of generofity, and
wifhing him not to be a fufferer by his gratitude.
Captain Cook infilled upon his acceptance of a
new broad-fword, with a brafs hilt, with which he
appeared greatly delighted. We were earneflly
importuned by the chief, and many of his coun-
trymen, to pay them another vifit who, by way
of inducement, promifed to procure a large flock
of (kins. Further particulars relative to the coun-
try and its inhabitants, will furnifh materials for
the two fubfequent chapters..
C H A P.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
2 2£'
C H A P. II.
Directions for failing into the Sound— The adjacent
Country defcribed — Remarks on the W gather and
Climate — Trees and other vegetable Productions
— Racoons , Martins , Squirrels , and other Qua-
drupeds —Variety of Skins brought for Sale
Whales , and other Sea Animals — The Sea Otter
defcribed — Birds — Oceanic Birds Fifh Shell
Fijh— Snakes and Lizards — InfeCis —Stones —
Defer ip tion of the Natives — Their Colour — For-
mation — Drefs and Ornaments — Particular
Dreffes , and horrible wooden Majks — Leathern
Mantle for War — Their Lifpofitions — Songs — ■
Mufical Injlruments— Their Fondnefs for Metals,
which they take every Opportunity ofjlealing.
KING George’s Sound was the appellation
given by the Commodore to this inlet, on
our firft arrival; but he was afterwards informed
that the natives called it Nootka. The entrance
is in the eaft corner of Hope Bay; its latitude is
49°, 33' north, and its longitude 2330, 12' eaft.
The eaft coaft of that bay is covered by a chain of
funken rocks ; and, near the Sound, are fome
iflands and rocks above water. We enter the
Sound between two rocky points, lying eaft-fouth-
eaft, and weft-north-weft from each other, diftant
about four miles. The Sound widens within thefe
0.3 points.
^3® A VOYAGE TO THE
points, and extends in to the northward at lead
four leagues.
A number of iflands, of various fizes, appear in
the middle of the Sound. I he depth of water,
not only in the middle of the Sound, but alfo
dofe to fome parts of its Ihore, is from forty-feven
to ninety fathoms, or more. “Within its circuit,
the harbours and anchoring-places are numerous.
The cove, where our Ihips anchored, is on the
e aft-fid e of the Sound, and alfo on the eaft of the
largeft ifland. It is, indeed, covered from the
fea, which is its principal recommendation, for it
is expofed to the fouth-eaft winds, which fome-
times blow with great violence, and make great
devaluation, as was but too apparent in many
places.
Upon the fea-coaft the land is tolerably high
and level; but, within the Sound, it rifes into
fteep hills, which have an uniform appearance,
ending in roundifh tops, with lharp ridges on
their fides. Many of thefe hills are high, and
others are of a more moderate height; but all of
them are covered to their tops with the thickeft
woods. Some bare fpots are to be leen on the
fides of fome of the hills, but they are not nume-
rous, though they furficiently (hew the general
rocky difpofition of thefe hills. They have, in-
deed, no foil upon them, except what has been
produced from rotten modes and trees, of the
depth of about two feet. Their foundations are,
indeed.
PACIFIC OCEAN. 23*
indeed, nothing more than ftupendous rocks ;
which are of a grey or whitifh cad when expofed
to the weather ; but, when broken, are of a blueilh
grey colour. The rocky ihores confift entirely
of this 5 and the beaches of the little coves in the
Sound are compofed of fragments of it.
During our day the weather nearly correfponded
with that which we had experienced when we were
off the coad. We had fine clear weather, if the
wind was between north and wed ; but if more to
the fouthward, hazy, accompanied with rain. The
climate appears to be infinitely milder than that
on the ead coad of America, under the fame pa-
rallel of latitude. We perceived no frod in any
of the low ground ; but, on the contrary, ve-
getation proceeded very brifkly, for we faw grafs,
at this time, upwards of a foot long.
The trees, of which the woods are principally
compofed, are the Canadian pine, white cyprefs,
and two or three other forts of pine. T. he two
fird are in the greated abundance, and, at a dis-
tance, refemble each other; though they are ea-
fily didinguifhed on a nearer view, the cyprefs
being of a paler green than the other. In gene-
ral, the trees grow here with great vigour, and
are of a large fize. At this early feafon of the
year, we faw but little variety of other vegetable
produftions.
About the rocks, and borders of the woods,
we faw fome drawberry plants, and jrafberry, cur-
0^4 rant>
A VOYAGE TO THE
232
rant, and goofeberry bufhes, all in a flourifhing
jtatc. I here were alfo a few black alder-trees ;
a xpecies of fow-thiftle ; lb me crow’s-foot with a
fine crimfon flower, and two forts of anthericum.
^ e cl 10 met with fome wild rofe-bufhes, juft
budding; fome young leeks, a fmall fort of grafs,
and fome water- erodes, befides a great abun-
dance Oi andromeda. Within the woods are two
forts or underwood fhrubs, unknown to us, and
fom n ills and ferns.
1 he ieafon of the year did not permit us to
acquire much knowledge of the vegetables of this
countiy ; and it was impoiiible, from our fitua-
tion, to learn much about its animals. The want
of water induced us to enter the Sound at firft ;
and the accidents that happened there, though
they obliged us to flay longer than we intended,
were unfavourable to our acquiring any knowledge
of this kind. It was abfolutely neceffary that
every perfon fhould be employed in forwarding
the neceffary bufinefs of the fhips ; which was
the principal objeft, as the feafon was advancing,
and the iuccefs of the voyage depended upon
their diligence in performing their leveral talks.
Excurfions of any kind were, therefore, never
attempted.
Lying in a cove, on an ifland, all the animals
that wefaw alive, were two or three racoons, mar-
tins, and fquirrels : fome of our people, indeed,
who landed on the continent, on the fouth-eaft
' 3 fide
pacific ocean. 233
(ide of the Sound, favv the prints of a bear’s feet,
not far from the (bore. The only account, there-
fore, that we can furnifh of the quadrupeds, is
taken from the fkins which we purchafed of the
inhabitants 5 and thefe were fometimes fo muti-
lated in the heads, tails, and paws, that we could
not even guefs to what animals they belonged ;
though others were either fo perfect, or fb well
known, that they did not admit of a doubt about
them. The mot common among them were
bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. Bear-fkins were
very plentiful, generally of a fhining black co-
lour, but not very large. The deer-fkins were
not fo plentiful, and appeared to belong to what
the hiftorians of Carolina call the fallow-deer;
thouo-h Mr. Pennant diftinguifhes it by the name
of Virginian deer, and thinks it quite a different
fpecies from ours. Their foxes are numerous,
and of feveral varieties ; the (kins of fome being
yellow, with a black tip at the tail 3 others, of a
reddifli yellow, intermixed with black 3 and others
of an afh colour, alfo intermixed with black.
When the fkins were fo mutilated as to admit
of a doubt, our people applied the name of fox
or wolf indifcriminately. At length, we met
with an entire wolf’s {kin, and it was grey. Here
is the common martin, the pine martin, and ano-
ther of a lighter brown colour. The ermine is
alfo found in this country, but is fmall, and not
very common 3 its hair is not remarkably , fine,
though
234 A VOYAGE TO THE
though the animal is entirely white, except about
an inch at the tip of the tail. The racoons and
fquirrels are fuch as are common, but the latter
is not fo large as ours, and has a rufty colour
extending the length of the back.
We were fufficiently clear refpe&ing the ani-
mals already mentioned, but there were two others
that we could nor, with any certainty, diftin-
guilh. One of them, we concluded to be the
elk or moufe deer ; and the other was conjectured
to be the wild cat or lynx. Hogs, dogs, and
»oats, have not yet made their appearance in this
place. Nor have the natives any knowledge of
<our brown rats, to which they applied the name
they give to fquirrels, when they faw them on
board the Ihips.
The fea animals near the coaft, are whales,
jporpoifes, and feals ; the latter, from the Ikins
we faw, feeming to be of the common fort. The
porpoife is the Phocena. Though the fea otter
is amphibious, we fhall confider him as belong-
ing to this clafs, as living principally in the wa-
ter. We doubted, for feme time, whether the
tkins, which the natives fold us for otter fkins,
really belonged to that animal ; but, a fhort
time before our departure, a whole one, juft kill-
ed, was purchafed from fome ftrangers, of which
Mr. Webber made a drawing. It was young,
weighing only twenty-five pounds ; was of a
c-loffy black colour, but many of the hairs being
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PACIFIC 0 C E A U.
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tipt with white, gave it, at fir ft fight, a greyifti
caft. The face, throat, and breaft, were of a
light brown, or yellowifh white ; and, in many
of the (kins, that colour extended the whole length
of the belly. In each jaw it had fix cutting teeth j
two in the lower jaw being exceeding fmall, and
placed without, at the bafe of the two in the
middle. In thefe refpedts, it differs from thofe
found by the Ruffians, and alfo in the outer toes
of the hind feet not being fkirted with a mem-
brane. There alfo appeared a greater variety in
colour, than is mentioned by thofe who defcribe
the Ruffian fea otters. It is mod probable, that
thefe changes of colour naturally take place at
the different gradations of life. The very young
ones had brown coarfe hair, with a little fur un-
derneath ; but thofe of the fize of the animal juft
defcribed, had a greater quantity of that fub-
ftance. After they have attained their full growth,
they lofe the black colour, which is fucceeded
by a deep brown. At that period, they have a
greater quantity of fine fur, and very few long
■hairs. Some, which we fuppofed to be older,
were of a chefnut brown ; and we faw fome few
Ikins that were of a perfeft yellow. The fur cT
thefe creatures is certainly finer than that of any
other animal we know of; confequently the dif-
covery of this part of North America, where fo
valuable an article of corpmerce is to be procured,
ought
236 A VOYAGE TO THE
ought certainly to be confidered as a matter of
fome confluence.
Birds are far from being numerous here, and
thofe that are to be feen are remarkably ILy, ow-
ing, perhaps, to their being continually harrafied
by the natives, either to eat them, or become
poffeffed of their - feathers to be worn as orna-
ments. There are crows and ravens, not differ-
ing, in the lead, from thofe in England: alfo a
jay or magpie ; the common wren, which is the
only fmging bird we heard ; the Canadian thruffi ;
the brown eagle, with a white head and tail ;.a
fmall fpecies of hawk ; a heron ; and the large-
creded American king-fiflher. There are alfo
fome that have not yet been mentioned by thofe
who have treated on natural hidory. The two
ifirft: are Jpecies of wood-peckers. One is fome-
what fmailer than a thrufh, of a black colour on
the back, having white fpots on the wings ; the
head, neck, and bread, of a crimfon colour, and
the belly of a yellowifli olive colour; whence it
might, with propriety, be called the yellow-bel-
lied wood-pecker. The other is larger and more
elegant ; the back is of a dufky brown colour,
richly waved with black ; the belly has a red-
difh cad, with black fpots ; it has alfo a black
lpot on the bread, and the lower part of the
wings and tail are of a fcarlet colour ; the upper
part blackilh. A crimfon dreak runs on each
tide, from the angle of the mouth, a little down
the
PACIFIC OCEAN. ^37
the neck. The third and fourth are, one of the finch
kind, not larger than a linnet, of a dufky colour,
black head and neck, and white bill s land a fand-
piper, of a dufky brown colour, with a broad
white band acrofs the wings, of the fize of a fmall
pigeon. There are alfo humming birds, which
differ, in fome degree, from the numerous forts
already known of this delicate little animal.
The quebrantahueffos, fhags, and gulls, were
feen off the coaft; and the two laft were alfo
frequent in the Sound. There are two forts of
wild ducks ; one of which was black, with a
white heads the other was white, and had a red
bill, but of a larger fize. Here are alfo the greater
lumme , or diver, which are found in our northern
countries. Some fwans too, were once or twice
feen flying to the northward, but we are unac-
quainted with their haunts. On the fhores we
found another fand-piper, about the fize of a
lark, and not unlike the burre : alfo a plover,
very much refembling our common fea-lark.
Though the variety of fifli is not very great
here, they are more plentiful in quantity than
birds. The principal forts are the common her-
ring, which are very numerous, though not ex-
ceeding feven inches in length a fmaller fort,
which, though larger than the anchovy, or far-
dine, is of the fame kind a filver-coloured
bream, and another of a gold brown colour, with
parrow blue ftripes. It is moft probable that the
her-
*3® A VOYAGE TO THE
herrings, and fardines, come in large fhoals, a t
ftated feafons, as is ufual with thofe kinds of fifh.
1 he two forts of breams may be reckoned next
to thefe in quantity ; and thofe which were full
grown weighed about a pound. The other fifh
were fcarce, and confined of a brown kind of
Jculpin, fuch as are taken on the coaft of Norway *
another of a reddifh caft; froft fifh j a large one*
without lcales, refembling the bull-head ; and a
fmall brownifh cod with whitifh fpots ; alfo a red
fifh, of nearly the fame fize, which fome of our
people had feen in the ftraits of Magellan ; and
another fomewhat like the hake. Confiderable
numbers of thole fifh called the chimera, or little
lea-wolves, are met with here. Sharks alfo fre-
quent the Sound, the teeth of which many na-
tives had in their pofTeflion. The other marine
animals are a fmall cruciated medufa> or blubber;
ftar-fifh, fmall crabs, and a large cuttle-fifh.
About the rocks there is an abundance of lar<*e
mufcles ; alio fea-ears ; and we often found fhells
of pretty large plain chama. Alfo fome trochi of
two fpecies; a curious murex ; rugged wilks;
and a fnail. Befides thefe, there are fome plain
.cockles and limpets. Many of the mufcles are
a fpan long ; in fome of which there are lartte
pearls, but they are difagreeable both in colour
and lhape. It is probable that there is red coral
cither in the lound or on the coaft ; large branches
of
PACIFIC OCEAN.
of it having been feen in the canoes of the na-
tives.
The only reptiles obferved her!?, were brown
fnakes, about two feet in length, having whitifh
ftripes on the back and Tides ; and brownilh wa-
ter lizards. The former are fo perfectly harmlefs,
that we have feen the natives carry them alive in
their hands. The infeft tribe feem to be moie
numerous. For though the feafon for tneii ap-
pearance was only beginning, we law leveral dif-
ferent forts of butterflies, all of which were com-
mon : we alfo found fome humble bees ; goofe-
berry moths ; a few beetles ; two or three forts of
flies, and fome mufquitoes.
Though we found both iron and copper here,
we did not imagine that either of them belonged
to this place. 'We did not even fee the ores of
any metal, except a coarfe red ochry fubftance,
ufed by the natives in painting or ftaining them-
felves. This may, perhaps, contain a fmall
quantity of iron ; as may alfo a black and white
pigment made ufe of for the fame purpofe.
Exclufive of the rock, which conftitutes the
fhores and mountains, we faw, among the natives,
fome articles made of a hard black granite, which
was neither very compafl, nor fine grained; alfo
a greyifh whetftone ; the common oil ftone ; and
a black fort, little inferior to the hone-hone.
The natives were feen to ufe the tranlparent leafy
glimmer, and a brown leafy or martial fort. They
had
♦
240 a VOYAGE TO THE
had alio pieces of rock cryftal. The two firfi
articles were probably to be obtained near the
fpot, as they had confiderable quantities of them ;
but the latter, it may be fuppofed, came from a
greater diftance, or is extremely fcarce ; for our
vifiters would not part with it without a very va-
luable confideration.
The ftature of the natives is, in general, below
the common ftandard ; but their perfons are not
proportionably flender, being ufually pretty plump,
though not mufcular. Their foft flefhinefs, how-
ever, feems never to fwell into corpulence j and
many of the older people are rather lean. Molt
of the natives have round full vifages, which are
fometimes broad, with high prominent cheeks.
Above t’nefe, the face frequently appears fallen
in quite acrofs between the temples : the nofe
flattens at its bafe, has wide noftrils, and a round-
ed point. The forehead is low, the eyes 1'maU,
black, and languifhing ; the mouth round, the
lips thick, and the teeth regular and well fet,
but not remarkable for their whitenefs.
Some have no beards at all, and others only a
fmall thin one upon the point of the chin. This
does not arife from an original deficiency of hair
on that part, but from their plucking it out by
the roots ; for thofe who do not deftroy it, have
not only confiderable beards on every part of the
chin, but alfo whilkers, or muftachios, running
frqin the upper lip to the lower jaw obliquely
down-
syooj
PACIFIC OCEAN.
341
downward *. Their eye-brows are alfo fcarity
and narrow ; but they have abundance of hair on
the head, which is ftrong, black, flraight, and
lank. Their necks are fhort, and their arms are
rather clumfy, having nothing of beauty or ele-
gance in their formation. The limbs* in all of
them, are fmall in proportion to the other parts j
befides, they are crooked and ill-formed, hav-
ing projecting ancles, and large feet aukwardly
fhaped. The latter defed feems to be occafion-
ed, in a great meafure, by their fitting fo conti-
nually on their hams or knees.
Their colour cannot be properly afcertained*
their bodies being incrufted with paint and naf-
tinefs ; though, when thefe have been carefully
rubbed off, the fkin was little inferior, in white-
nefs, to that of the Europeans j though of that
palifh caft which diftinguifhes the inhabitants of
our fouthern nations. Some of them, when
young, appear rather agreeable, when compared
to the generality of the people j that period of
life being attended with a peculiar degree of ani-
mation ; but, after a certain age, the diftindion
is hardly obfervable j a remarkable famenefs cha-
raderizes every countenance, dulnefs and want
of expreffion being vifibly pourtrayed in every
* It is a miftaken notion, though efpoufed by eminent
writers, that American Indians have no beards. See Car-
eer's Travels, p. 224, 225 ; and Mar f dens Hijlory of Suma-
tra, p. 39, 40.
VOL, II.— N° IO.
R
vifage.
H42 a voyage to the
vifage. The women, in general, are of the fame
fize, colour, and form, with the men ; nor is it
eafy to diftinguifh them, as they poflefs no na-
tural feminine delicacies. Nor was there a fingle
one to be found, even among thofe who were in
their prime, who had the leaft pretenfions to beau-
ty or comelinefs.
Their drefs, in common, is a flaxen kind of
mantle, ornamented with a narrow ftripe of fur
on the upper edge, and fringes at the lower edge.
Palling under the left arm, it is tied over the
right fhoulder, leaving both arms perfectly free.
Sometimes the mantle is fattened round the waift
by a girdle of coarfe matting. Over this is worn
a fmall cloak of the fame fubftance, reaching
to the waift, alfo fringed at the bottom. They
wear a cap like a truncated cone, or a flower-pot,
made of very fine matting, ornamented with a
round knob, or a bunch of leathern taflels, having
a firing palling under the chin, to prevent its
blowing off.
The above drefs is common to both fexes, and
the men often wear, over their other garments,
the fkin of fome animal, as a bear, wolf, or lea-
otter, with the hair outwards > fometimes tying
it before, and fometimes behind, like a cloak.
They throw a coarfe mat about their fhoulders
in rainy weather, and they have woollen gar-
ments which are but little ufed. They generally
wear their hair hanging loofely down bur, thofe
who
Pacific ocean* 243
who have not a cap, tie it into a kind of bunch
on the crown of the head.
Their drefs is certainly convenient, and, were
it kept clean, would not be inelegant ; but, as
they are continually rubbing their bodies over
with a red paint, mixed with oil, their garments
become greafy, and contradt a rancid offenfive
fmell. The appearance, indeed, of thefe people,
is both wretched and filthy, and their heads and
garments fwarm with lice. So loft are they
to every idea of cleanlinefs, that we frequently
faw them pick off thefe vermin, and eat them
with the greateft compofure.
Their bodies, it has been obferved, are always
covered with red paint, but their faces are orna-
mented with variety of colours a black, a brighter
red, or a white colour : the laft. of thefe jrives
them a ghaftly horrible appearance. They like-
wife ftrew the brown martial mica over the paint,
which caufes it to glitter. Many of their ears
are perforated in the lobe, where they make a
large hole, and two fmaller ones higher up on the
outer edge. In thefe holes are hung bits of bone,
quills faftened upon a leathern thong, lhells,
bunches of taffels, or thin pieces of copper. In
fome, the Jeptum of the nofe is alfo perforated,
and a piece of cord drawn through it. Others
wear, at the fame place, pieces of copper, brals, of
iron, fhaped fomewhat like a horfe-fhoe, the nar-
row opening receiving the feptum , fo that it may
R 2 be
A VOYAGE TO THE
-44
be pinched gently by the two points, and thus
the ornament hangs over the upper lip. The
rings of our buttons were eagerly purchafed, and
appropriated to this ufe. Their bracelets, which
they wear about their wrifts, are bunches of white
bugle beads, or thongs with taffels, or a broad
black horny fhining fubftance. Round their an-
cles they frequently wear leathern thongs, or the
finews of animals curioufly twilled.
Such are their common drefies and ornaments,
but they have fome that are ufed only on extra-
ordinary occafions, fuch as going to war, and ex-
hibiting themfelves to ftrangers in ceremonial
vifits. Amongft thefe are the fkins of wolves,
or bears, tied on like their other garments, but
edged with broad borders of fur, ingenioully or-
namented with various figures. Thefe are oc-
cafionally worn feparately, or over their common
clothing. The moll ufual head-drefs, on thefe
occafions, is a quantity of withe, wrapped about
the head, with large feathers, particularly thofe
of eagles, ftuck in it ; or it is entirely covered
with fmall white feathers. At the fame time,
the face is varioully painted, the upper and lower
parts being of oppofite colours, and the ftrokes
having the appearance of frefh galhes ; or it is be-
fmeared with a kind of fat or tallow, mixed with
paint, formed into a great variety of figures,
fomewhat like carved work.
The
v acific OCEAN.
245
The hair, fometimes, is feparated into fmall
parcels, and tied, at intervals, with thread ; and
others tie it together behind, after the Englifli
manner, and flick in it fome branches of the at-
preps thyoides. Thus equipped, they have a
truly favage and ridiculous appearance, which is
much heightened when they affume their mon-
flrous decorations. Thefe confifl of a great va-
riety of wooden mafks, applied to the face, fore-
head, or upper part of the head. Some of thele
vifors referable human faces, having hair, beards,
and eye- brows; others reprefent the heads of
birds, and many the heads of animals ; fuch as
deer, wolves, porpoifes, and others,
Thefe reprefentations generally exceed the na-
tural fize, and they are frequently ftrewed with
pieces of the foliaceous rnicei) which makes them
glitter, and augments their deformity. Some-
times they even exceed this, and fix large pieces
of carved work upon the head, projecting to a
confiderable diftance, and refembling the prow
of a canoe. So much do they delight in thefe
difguifes, that, for want of another mafk, we faw
one of them thruft his head into a tin kettle
which he had bought from us.
Whether thefe extravagant mafquerade orna-
ments are ufed on any religious occafion, or in
any kind of diverfion, or whether they are cal-
culated to intimidate by their monflrous appear-
ance., or as decoys when hunting animals, is un-
R 3 certain.
-46 A VOYAGE TO THE
ceitain. But, if travellers, in an ignorant and
oedulous age, when more than marvellous things
were iuppofed to exift, had feen feveral people
decoiated in this manner, and had not approach-
ed fo near them as to be undeceived, they would
have believed, and have endeavoured to make
others believe, that a race of beings exifled, par-
taking of the nature of man and bead.
Among the people of Nootka, one of the dreffes
feems peculiarly adapted to war. It is a thick
tanned leathern mantle doubled, and appears to
be the fkin of an elk, or buffalo. This is faf-
tened on in the ordinary manner, and is fo con-
trived as to cover the bread quite up to the
throat j part of it, at the fame time, falling down
to their heels. This garment is, fometimes, very
curioufly painted, and is not only drong enough
to refid arrows, but, as we underdood from
them, even fpears cannot pierce it ; fo that it
may be confidered as their completed defenfive
armour. Sometimes they wear a fort of leathern
cloak, over which are rows of the hoofs of deer,
placed horizontally, and covered with quills j
which, on their moving, make a loud rattling
noife. Whether this part of their garb is intend-
ed to drike terror in war, or to be ufed on ce-
remonious occafions, is uncertain j but we faw
one of their mufical entertainments, which was
conduced by a man habited in this manner, hav-
ing a mafic on, and fhaking his rattle.
Though
PACIFIC OCEAN. 247
Though we cannot view thefe people without
a kind of horror, when they are thus ftrangely
apparelled, yet, when diverted of thefe extrava-
gant drefles, and beheld in their common habit,
they have no appearances of ferocity in their coun-
tenances ; but, as has been already obferved, they
feem to be of a quiet phlegmatic difpofition ;
deficient in animation and vivacity, to render
themfelves agreeable in fociety. They are ra-
ther referved than loquacious ; but their gravity
feems conftitutional, and not to arife from a con-
vidtion of its propriety, or to be the refult of
any particular mode of education ; for, in their
higheft paroxyfins of rage, they have not heat of
language, or fignificancy of geftures, to exprefs
it fufficiently.
The orations which they make on all public
occafions, are little more than fhort fenten-
ces, and fometimes only fingle words, forcibly
repeated in one tone of voice, accompanied with
a fingle gefture at every fentence ; at the fame
time jerking their whole body a little forward,
with their knees bending, and their arms hang-
ing down by their fides.
From their exhibiting human Ikulls and bones
to fale, there is little reafon to doubt of their
treating their enemies with a degree of brutal
cruelty ; but, as this circumftance rather marks a
general agreement of charadter among almoft
every uncivilized tribe, in every age and coun-
R 4 try,
A VQYACE TO THE
S4S
try, they are not to be reproached with any charge
of peculiar inhumanity. Their difpofition, in
this refpeft, we had not any reafon to judge un-
favourably of. They appear to be docile, cour-
teous, and good-natured ; but they are quick in
refenting injuries, notwithstanding the predomi-
nancy of their phlegm ; and, like all other paf-
fionate people, as quickly forgetting them.
Thefe fits of paffion never extended farther
than the parties immediately concerned ; the
Spectators never entering into the merits of the
quarrel, whether it was with any of us, or among
their own people ; {hewing as much indifference,
as if they were wholly unacquainted with the
whole tranfa&ion. It was common tofeeoneof them
rave and fcold, while all his agitation did not' in
the lead excite the attention of his countrymen,
and when we could not difeover the objeCt of his
difpleafure. They never betray the lead Symp-
tom of timidity upon thefe occafions, but feem
refolutely determined to punidi the infulter. With
refpeCt to ourfelves, they were under no appre-
henfions about our Superiority ; but, if any dif-
ference arofe, were as anxious to avenge the
wrong, as if the qaufe of quarrel had been among
fhemfelves.
Their other padions appear to lie dormant, espe-
cially their curiofity. Few exprefied any defire or
inclination to fee or examine things with which
they were unacquainted ; and which, to a curious
obferver,
» 1 » 1
PACIFIC OCEAN, £49
obferver, would have appeared aftoni filing. If
they could procure the articles they knew and
wanted, they were perfe&ly fatisfied ; regarding
every thing elfe with great indifference. Nor dicl
our perfons, drefs, and behaviour (though fo very
different from their own) or even the fize and
conftru&ion of our fliips, feem to command their
admiration or attention.
Their indolence may, indeed, be a principal
caufe of this. But it muft be admitted, that they
are not wholly unfufceptible of the tender paf-
fions, which is evident from their being fond of
mufic, and that too of the truly pathetic kind.
Their fongs are generally flow and folemn ■, but
their mufic is lefs confined than that which is
ufually found in other rude nations ; the varia-
tions being very numerous and expreffrve, and
the melody powerfully foothing. Befides their
concerts, fonnets were frequently fung by
fingle performers, keeping time by ftriking the
hand againft the thigh. Though folemnity was
predominant in their mufic, they fometimes en-
tertained us in a gay and lively drain, and even
with a degree of pleafantry and humour.
A rattle, and a fmall whiffle, are the only in-
ftruments of mufic which we have fcen among
them. The rattle is ufed when they fing ; but
upon what occafions the whiffle is ufed, we never
knew, unlefs it be when they affume the figures
of particular animals, and endeavour to imitate
their
250 A VOYAGE TO THE
their howl, or cry. We once Taw one of thefe
people drefled in the Ikin of a wolf, with the
head covering his own, driving to imitate that
animal, by making a fqueaking noife with a
whittle he had in his mouth. The rattles are ge-
nerally in the fhape of a bird, with fmall pebbles
in the belly, and the tail is the handle. They
have another fort, which refembles a child’s
rattle.
Some of them difplayed a difpofition to kna-
very, and, in trafficking with us, took away our
o-oods without making any return. But of this
we had few inftances, and we had abundant rea-
fon to approve the fairnefs of their condudt.
Their eagernels, however, to poffefs iron, brafs,
or any kind of metal, was fo great, that, when
an opportunity prefented itfelf, few of them could
refill; the temptation to Heal it. The natives of
the South-fea illands,as appears in many infra nces,
would fteal any thing they could find, without
confidering whether it was ufeful to them or not.
The novelty of the objedt, was a fufficient in-
ducement for them to get poffieffion of it by any
means. They were rather actuated by a childiffi
curiofity, than by a thieviffi difpofition. The
inhabitants of Nootka, who made free with our
property, are entitled to no fuch apology. The
appellation of thief is certainly due to them ; for
they knew that what they pilfered from us, might
be converted to the purpofes of private utility i
PACIFIC OCEAN.
and, according to their eftimation of things, was
really valuable. Luckily for us, they fet no va-
lue upon any of our articles, except the metals.
Linens, and many other things, were fecure from
their depredations, and we could fafely leave them
hanging out all night afhore, without being
watched. The principle which prompted thefe
people to pilfer from us, would probably ope-
rate in their intercourfe with each other. We
had, indeed, abundant reafon to believe, that
Healing is very common amongfi: them, and fre-
quently produces quarrels, of which we faw more
inftances than one.
CHAP,
A VOYAGE TO THE
152
CHAP. III.
Number of Inhabitants at Nootka Sound — Manner
of building their Houfes — Defcription of their
Infide , Furniture , and Utenfils — Their Filthinefs
— Wooden Images , called Klumma — Employments
of the Men — Indolence of the young Men — Of the
Women , and their Employments — Different Sorts
of Food , and Manner of preparing it— Bows —
Arrows — Spears — Slings , and other Weapons —
Manufactures of Woollen , &c. — Mechanic Arts
— Defign and Execution in Carving and Painting
— Canoes — Implements ufed in Hunting and Fife-
ifig — Iron T ools common among them — Manner of
procuring that, and other Metals — Language ,
&c.
THE only inhabited parts of the Sound, feem
to be the two villages already mentioned.
A pretty exadt computation of the number of in-
habitants in both, might be made from the canoes
that vifited our fhips, the fecond day after our
arrival. They confifted of about a hundred,
which, upon an average, contained at leaft five
perfons each. But, as there were very few women,
old men, children, or youths, then among them,
we may reafonably fuppofe, that the number ot
the inhabitants of the two villages could not be
PACIFIC OCEAN. 253
lefs than four times the number of our vifiters ;
beino- two thouiand in the whole.
The village which is fituated at the entrance of
the Sound, Hands on the fide of a pretty fteep
afcent, extending from the beach to the wood.
The houfes confift of three ranges or rows, placed
at almoft equal diftances behind each other, the
front row being the largeft ; and there are a few
ftraggling houfes at each end. 1 hele rows are
interfered by narrow paths, or lanes, at irregular
diftances, palling upward ; but thofe between the
houfes are confiderably broader. Though this
general difpofition has fome appearance of regu-
larity, there is none in the refpe&ive houfes 3 for
every divifion made by the paths, may either be
confidered as one or more houfes there being no
regular feparation to diftinguifh them by, either
within or without. Thefe erections confift of very
long broad planks, refting upon the edges of each
other, tied, in different parts, with withes of pine-
bark. They have only flender pofts on the out-
fide, at confiderable diftances from each other, to
which they are alfo faftened ; but there are fome
larger poles within, placed aflant. The fides and
ends of thefe habitations are about feven or eight
feet in height, but the back part is fomewhat
higher. The planks, therefore, which compofe
the roof, flant forward, and, being loofe, may be
moved at pleafure. They may either be put clofe
3 to
254
A VOYAGE to THE
to exclude the rain, or feparated to admit the
light in fine weather.
Upon the whole, however, they are molt mife-
rable dwellings, and difplay very little attention
or ingenuity in their conftru&ion : for, though
the fide-planks are pretty clofe to each other in
fome places, they are quite open in others. Be-
lides, thefe habitations have no regular doors, and
can only be entered by a hole, which the unequal
length of the planks has accidentally made. In
the fides of the houfe they have alfo holes to look
out at, ferving for windows; but thefe are very
irregularly difpofed, without attending, in the
leaf!;, to the fhape or fize of them.
Within the habitations, we have frequently a
view from one end to the other of thefe ranees of
building ; for, though there are fome appearances
of feparations on each fide, for the accommoda-
tion of different perfons or families, they do not
intercept the fight ; and generally confift of pieces
of plank, extending from the fide to the middle
of the houfe. On the fides of each of thefe parts
is a little bench, about five or fix inches higher
than the reft of the floor, covered with mats,
whereon the family fit and fleep. The length of
thefe benches is generally feven or eight feet, and
the breadth four or five. The fire-place, which
has neither hearth nor chimney, is in the middle
of the floor. One houfe, in particular, was nearly
feparated from the reft by a clofe partition ; and
6 this
Cooks Voyage, Octa vo Edition, .
PACIFIC OCEAN.
255
this was the moft regular building of any we had
feen. In it there were four of thefe benches, each
holding a finglc family at the corner ; but it had
not any leparation by boards, and the middle of
the houfe feemed to be common to all the inha-
bitants.
The furniture of their houfes confifts princi-
pally of chefts and boxes of various fizes, piled
upon each other, at the Tides or ends of the houfe ;
in which are depofited their garments, fkins,
mafks, and other articles that are deemed valu-
able. Many of them are double, or the upper
one ferves as a lid to the other : fome have a lid
fattened with thongs; others, that are very large,
have a fquare hole cut in the upper part, for the
convenience of putting things in, or taking them
out. They are frequently painted black, ftudded
with the teeth of animals, or rudely carved with
figures of birds, &c. as decorations. They have
alio fquare and oblong pails ; round wooden cups
and bowls ; wooden troughs, of about two feet in
length, out of which they eat their food ; bags of
matting, bailee ts of twigs, &c.
Their implements for filhing, and other things,
are hung up, or fcattered in different parts of the
houfe, without any kind of order, making, in the
whole, a perfeft fcene of confufion ; except on the
fleeping benches, which have nothing on them
but the mats, which are of a fuperior quality to
thole
256
A VOYAGE TO THE
thofe that they ufually have to fit on in their
boats.
The irregularity and confufion of their houfes
is, however, far exceeded by their naftinefs and
flench. They not only dry their fifh within
doors, but they alfo gut them there ; which, to-
gether with their bones and fragments thrown
upon the ground at meals, occafions feveral heaps
of filth, which are never removed, till it becomes
troublefome, from their bulk, to pafs over them.
Every thing about the houfe ftinks of train-oil,
fifh, and ffnoke ; and every part of it is as filthy
as can be imagined.
Notwithstanding all this filth and confufion,
many of thefe houfes are decorated with images j
which are nothing more than the trunks of large
trees, of the height of four or five feet, placed at
the upper end of the apartment, with a human
face carved on the front, and the hands and arms
upon the fides. Thefe figures too are varioufiy
painted, and make, upon the whole, a moft ridi-
culous appearance. Thefe images are generally
called Klumma but the names of two particular
ones, Handing abreaft of each other, at the dif-
tance of about three or four feet, were Natchkoa
and Matjeeta. A fort of curtain, made of mat,
ufually hung before them, which the natives were
fometimes unwilling to remove; and when they
ditl coufent to unveil them, they feemed to ex-
prels themfclves in a very myfterious manner. It
feems
PACIFIC OCEAN.
*57
feems probable that they fometimes make offer-
ings to them j for, if we rightly interpreted their
figns, they requefted us to give fomething to
thefe images, when they drew the mats from before
them.
From thefe circumftances, it was natural for
us to fuppofe that they were reprefentatives of
their gods, or fome fuperflitious fymbols ; and
yet they were held in no very extraordinary degree
of eflimation, for, with a fmall quantity of brafi,
or iron, any perfon might have purchafed all the
gods in the place.
Mr. Webber, in drawing a view of the infide of
a Nootka houfe, wherein thefe figures are repre-
fented, was interrupted, and hindered from pro-
ceeding, by one of the inhabitants. Thinking a
bribe would have a proper effect upon this occa-
fion, Mr. Webber made him an offer of a button
from his coat, which, being metal, immediately
operated as it was intended, and he was at liberty
to proceed as before. But foon after he had
made a beginning, he was again interrupted by
the fame man, who held a mat before the figures.
He therefore gave him another button, and was
fuffered again to proceed. He then renewed his
former practice, till Mr. Webber had parted with
every Tingle button ; and then permitted him to
proceed without any farther obftrudtion.
The men feem to be chiefly employed in fifh-
ing, and killing animals for the fuftenance of
Vol. II.— 11, S their
A VOYAGE TO THE
258
their families ; few of them being feen engaged
in any bufinefs in the houfes; but the women
were occupied in manufacturing their garments,
and in curing their fardines, which they alfo carry
from the canoes to their houfes. The women alfo
go in the fmall canoes, to gather mufcles and
other fliell-fifli. They are as dexterous as the men
in the management of thefe canoes ; and when
there are men in the canoes with them, they are
paid very little attention to on account of theiF
fex, none of the men offering to relieve them from
the labour of the paddle. Nor do they lhew
them any particular refped or tendernefs on other
occafions.
The young men are remarkably indolent ; being
generally fitting about, in fcattered companies,
balking themfelves in the fun, or wallowing in the
fand upon the beach, like fo many hogs, without
any kind of covering. This difregard of de-
cency was, however, confined folely to the men.
The women were always decently cloathed, and
behaved with great propriety; juftly meriting all
commendation for a modeft bafhfulnels, lo be-
coming in their fex. In them it is the more me-
ritorious, as the men have not even a fenfe of
lhame.
Befides feeing fomething of their domeftic life
and employments, we were enabled to form fomc
judgment of their difpofition, and method of
living, from the frequent vifits received from
D them
PACIFIC OCEAN.
259
them at our (hips, in the canoes; in which we
underftood they pafs much of their time, efpecially
in the fummer : for they not only eat and deep
frequently in them, but lie and balk themfelves in
the fun, as we had feen them at their village.
Their large canoes are, indeed, fufficiently fpa-
cious for that purpofe ; and are, except in rainy
weather, more comfortable habitations than their
filthy houfes.
Their greatefl reliance for food feems to be
upon the lea, as affording fifh, and fea-animals.
The principal of the firft are herrings and far-
dines, two fpecies of bream, and fome finall cod.
The herrings and fardines not only ferve to be
eaten frefh in their feafon, but to be dried and
fmoaked as ftores. The herrings alfo afford them
another grand refource for food ; which is a vaft
quantity of roe, prepared in a very extraordinary
manner. It is ftrewed upon fmall branches of the
Canadian pine. It is alfo prepared upon a long
fea-grafs, which is found, in great plenty, upon
the rocks under water. This caviare is preferved
in bafkets of mat, and ufed occafionally, after
being dipped in water. It has no difagreeable
tafte, and ferves thefe people as a kind of winter
bread. They alfo eat the roe of fome other large
fifh, that has a very rancid fmell and tafte..
The large mufcle is an eflential article of their
food, which is found in great abundance in the
Sound. After roafling them in their fhells, they
S 2
are
•Ot6o A VOYAGE TO THE
are ftuck upon long wooden Ikewers, and taken
off as they are wanted to be eaten, as they require
no further preparation, though they are fometimes
dipped in oil, as a.fauce. The fmaller ftiell-fifh
contribute to encreafe the general (lock, but can-
not be confidered as a material article of their
food.
The porpoife is more common among them as
food than any of the fea-animals; the flelh and
rind of which they cut in large pieces, dry them
as they do herrings, and eat them without far-
ther preparation. They have alfo a very fingular
manner of preparing a fort of broth from this
animal, when in its frefh ftate. They put fome
pieces of it in a wooden veffel or pail, in which
there is alfo fome water, and throw heated ftones
into it. This operation is repeatedly performed
till the contents are fuppofed to be fufficiently
ftewed. The frefn ftones are put in, and the
others taken out, with a cleft (tick, ferving as a
pair of tongs ; the veffel being, for that purpole,
always placed near the fire. This is a common
difti among them, and feems to be a very ftrong
nouriihing food. From thefe, and other lea-
animals, they procure oil in great abundance,
which they ufe upon many occafions, mixed with
other food, as fauce, and frequently fip it alone,
with a kind of fcoop made of horn.
They probably feed upon other fea-animals,
fuch as whales, feals, and fea-ottersi the Ikins of
the
PACIFIC OCEAN.
26l
the two latter being common amongft them :
and they are furnifhed with implements of all
forts for the deftrubtion of thefe different animals,
though perhaps they may not be able, at all fea-
fons, to catch them in great plenty. No great
number of frefh fkins were to be feen while we lay
in the Sound.
The land-animals, at this time, appeared alfo to
be fcarce, as we faw no flefh belonging to any of
them; and, though their fkins were to be had in
plenty, they might, perhaps, have been procured
by traffic from other tribes. It plainly appears,
therefore, from a variety of circumftances, that
thefe people are furnifhed with the principal part
of their animal food by the fea ; if we except a
few gulls, and fome other birds, which they fhoot
with their arrows.
Their only winter vegetables feem to be the
Canadian pine-branches, and fea-grafs -s but, as
the fpring advances, they ufe others as they come
in feafon. The mod common of thefe were two
forts of liliaceous roots, of a mild fweetifh tafte,
which are mucilaginous and eaten raw. The next
is a root called aheita , and has a tafte refembling
liquorice. Another fmall, fweetifh root, .about
the thicknefs of farjapariila , is alfo eaten raw. As
the feafon advances, they have doubtlefs many
others which we did not fee. For, though there
is not the leaft appearance of cultivation among
them, there are plenty of alder, gobfeberry, and
S3 currant
2.6s
A VOYAGE TO THE
currant bullies. One of the conditions, however,
which they feem to require in all food, is, that
it fhould be of the lefs acrid kind for they would
not touch the leek or garlic, though they fold
us vaft quantities of it, when they underftood we
liked it. They feemed, indeed, not to relilb
any of our food, and rejected our fpirituous li-
quors as fomething difgufting and unnatural.
Small marine animals, in their frelh ftate, are
fometimes eaten raw ; though it is their ordi-
nary pra&ice to roall or broil their food ; for they
are abfolute ftrangers to our method of boiling,
as appears from their manner of preparing por-
poife broth ; befides, as they have only wooden
veffels, it is impoflible for them to perform fuch
an operation. Their manner of eating corre-
fponds with the naftinefs of their houfes and per-
fons 3 for the platters and troughs, out of which
they eat their food, feem never to have been
wafhed fince their original formation ; the dirty
remains of a former meal, being only fwept away
by a fucceeding one. Every thing folid and
tough, they tear to pieces with their hands and
teeth ; for, though their knives are employed in
cutting off the larger portions, they have not ye:
endeavoured to reduce thefe to mouthfuls by the
fame means, though fo much more cleanly and
convenient. But they do not poflefs even an
idea of cleanlinefs, and conftanrly eat the roots
which are dug from the ground, without at-
tempting
PACIFIC OCEAtf. -^3
tempting to fhake off the foil that adheres to
them.
Whether they have any fet time for meals, we
never certainly knew ; having feen them eat at
all hours in their canoes. But, having feen Se-
veral meffes of porpoife broth preparing about
noon, when we went to the village, they pro-
bably make a principal meal about that tim£.
They have bows and arrows, fpears, flings,
fhort truncheons made of bone, and a fmall pick-
axe, fomewhat refembling the common American
tomahawk. Some of the arrows are pointed with
iron, and others with indented bone ; the fpear
has ufually a long point made of bone. 1 he
tomahawk is a ftone of the length of feven or
eight inches j one end terminating in a point,
and the other fixed into a wooden handle. This
handle is intended to refemble the head and neck
of a human figure ; the ftone being fixed in the
mouth lb as to reprefent a tongue of great mag-
nitude. To heighten the refemblance, human
hair is alfo fixed to it. This weapon is called
taaweejh ; and they have another weapon made
of ftone, which they call Jeeaik , about ten or
twelve inches long, having a fquarc point.
It may be reafonably concluded that they fre-
quently engage in clofe combat, from the num-
ber of their ftone and other weapons j and we had
very difagreeable proofs of their wars being both
S 4 frequent
164
A VOYAGE TO THE
frequent and bloody, from the quantity of hu-
man fkulls that were offered us to fale.
"1 he defign and execution of their manufac-
tures and mechanic arts, are more extenfive and
ingenious than could pofflbly have been expect-
ed, from the natural difpofition of the people,
and what little prog-refs they had made in civi-
lization. The flaxen and woollen garments en-
gage their firft care, as being the molt material of
•thofe that may be claffed under the head of ma-
nufactures. The former are fabricated from the
bark of the pine-tree, beat into a mafs refembling
hemp. After being prepared in a proper man-
ner, it is fpread upon a flick, which is faftened
to two others in an eredt pofition. The manu-
facturer, who fits on her hams at this fimple
machine, knots it acrofs, at the diftance of about
half an inch from each other, -with fmall plaited
threads. Though it cannot, by this method, be
rendered fo clofe and firm as cloth that is woven,
it is fufficiently impervious to the air, and is like-
wife fofter and more pliable.
Though their woollen garments are probably
manufactured in the fame manner, they have
much the appearance of a woven cloth ; but, the
fuppofition of their being wrought in a loom is
deitroyed, by the various figures that are inge-
nioufly infer ted in them ; it being very impro-
bable that thefe people fljould be able to produce
fuch a complex work, except immediately by
their
PACIFIC OCEAN.
265
their hands. They arc of different qualities;
fomc refembling our coarfelt fort of blankets; and
others not much inferior to our fineft fort, and
certainly both warmer and fofter.
The wool, of which they are manufactured, feems
to be produced by different animals, particularly
the fox and brown lynx ; that from the lynx is the
fined:, and nearly refembles our coarfer wools in
colour; but the hair, which alfo grows upon the
animal, being intermixed with it, the appearance
of it is fomewhat different when wrought. The or-
namental figures in thefe garments are difpofed
with great tafte, and are generally of a different co-
lour, being ufually dyed either of a deep brown or
a yellow ; the latter of which, v^hen new, equals,
in brightnefs, the beft in our carpets.
Their fondnefs for carving on all their wooden
articles, correfponds with their tafte in working
figures upon their garments. Nothing is to be
feen without a kind of freeze-work, or a repre-
fentation of fome animal upon it ; but the moft
general figure is that of the human face, which is
frequently cut out upon birds, and the other mon-
ftrous things already mentioned ; and even upon
their weapons of bone and ftone.
The general defign of thefe figures conveys a
fufficient knowledge of the objects they are in-
tended to reprefent ; though, in the carving, very
little dexterity is difplayed. But, in the execu-
tion of many of the mafks and heads, they have
fhewn themfelves ingenious fculptors. They
preferve,
*66
A VOYAGE TO THE
preferve, with the greated exadtnefs, the general
character of their own faces, and finifh the more
minute parts with great accuracy and neatnefs.
I hat thefe people have a drong propenfity to
works of this fort, is obfervable in a variety of par-
ticulars. Reprefentationsof human figures ; birds j
beads ; fifn ; models of their canoes, and houfe-
hold utenfils, were found among them in very
great abundance.
Having mentioned their fkill in fome of the
imitative arts, fuch as working figures in their
garments, and engraving, or carving them in
wood ; we may alfo add their drawing them in
colours. The whole procefs of their whale-fifhery
has been reprefented, in this manner, on the caps
they wear. This, indeed, was rudely executed,
but ferved, at lead, to convince us, that, though
they have not the knowledge of letters amongd
them, they have a notion of reprefenting ac-
tions, in a lading w7ay, exclulive of recording
them in their fongs and traditions. They have
alfo other painted figures, which, perhaps, have
no edablifhed fignifications, and are only the cre-
ation of fancy or caprice.
Though the drinflure of their canoes is fimple,
they appearwell calculated for every ufeful purpofe.
The larged, which contain upwards of twenty
people, are formed of a fingle tree. The length
of many of them is forty feet, the breadth fe-
ven, and the depth three. They become gra-
dually
PACIFIC OCEAN*. 2^7
dually narrower from the middle towards each
end, the hern ending perpendicularly, with a
knob at the top. The fore- part ft retches for-
wards and upwards, and ends in a point or piow,
much higher than the Tides of the canoe, which
are nearly ftraight. The greateft part of them
are without any ornament ; fome have a little
carving, and are ftudded with feals teeth
on the furface. Some have alfo a kind of addi-
tional prow, ufually painted with the figure of
fome animal. They have neither feats nor any
other fupporters, on the infide, except fome fmall
round flicks, about the fize of a walking cane,
placed acrofs, about half the depth of the canoe.
They are very light, and, on account of their
breadth and flatnefs, fwim firmly, without an out-
rigger, of which they are all deftitute. Their
paddles, which are fmall and light, refemble a
large leaf in fhape, being pointed at the bottom,
broad in the middle, and gradually becoming
narrower in the fhaft ; the whole length being
about five feet. By conftant ufe, they have ac-
quired great dexterity in the management of thefe
paddles -r but they never make ufe of any fails.
For filhing and hunting, their inftruments are
ingenioufly contrived, and completely made.
They confift of nets, hooks, and lines, harpoons,
gigs, and an inftrument refembling an oar. The
latter is about twenty feet in length, four or five
inches in breadth, and of the thicknefs of half an
inch.
^63 A VOYAGE TO THE
inch. 1 he edges, for about two-thirds of its
length, are fet with (harp bone-teeth, about two
inches in length j the other third ferving for a
handle. With this inftrument they attack her-
rings and fardines, and fuch other fifh as come
m {finals. It is ftruck into the fhoal, and thefifh
are taken either upon, or between the teeth. Their
hooks, which are made of bone and wood, dif-
play no great ingenuity; but the harpoon, which
is ufed in ftriking whales, and other fea-animals,
manifefts a great extent of contrivance. It con-
fifts of a piece of bone, formed into two barbs,
in which the oval blade of a large mufcle-ffiell,
and the point of the inftrument, is fixed. Two or
three fathoms of rope is faftened to this harpoon,
and, in throwing it, they ufe a fhaft of about
fifteen feet long, to which the rope is faftened ;
to one end of which the harpoon is fixed fo as to
leave the fhaft floating, as a buoy upon the wa-
ter, when the animal is ftruck with the harpoon.
W e are ftransrers to the manner or their catch-
ing or killing land-animals, but, it is probable,
that they fhoot the final ler forts with their ar-
rows ; and encounter bears, wolves, and foxes,
with their fpears. They have ieveral forts of
nets, which are perhaps applied to that purpole ;
it being cuftoinary for them to throw them over
their heads, to fignify their ufe, when they of-
fered them for iale. Sometimes they de.coy ani-
mals, by difguifing themfelves with a fkin, and
running
PACIFIC OCEAN. ^69
running upon all fours, in which they are re-
markably nimble ; making, at the fame time, a
kind of noife, or neighing. The mafks, or
carved heads, as well as the dried heads of dif-
ferent animals, are ufed upon thefe occafions.
Every thing of the rope kind, which they ufe
in making their various articles, is formed either
from thongs of fkins, and finews of animals,
or from the flaxen fubftance, of which they ma-
nufacture their mantles. The finews were feme-
times fo remarkably long, that it was hardly pof-
fible they could have belonged to any other ani-
mal than the whale. The fame conjecture may
be hazarded with regard to the bones, of which
they make their inftruments and weapons.
The affiftance they receive from iron-tools,
' contributes to their dexterity in wooden per-
formances. Their implements are almoft wholly
made of iron ; at leaft, we law but one chiffel
that was not made of that metal, and that was
only of bone. The knife and the chiffel are the
principal forms that iron afifumes amongfi: them.
The chiffel confifts of a flat long piece, fattened
into a wooden handle. A (lone is their mallet,
and a bit of fifh-fkin their polifher. Some of
thefe duffels were nine or ten inches in length,
and three or four in breadth ; but they were, in
general, confiderably fmaller.
Some of their knives are very large, and their
blades are crooked -} the edge being on the back
or
A VOYAGE TO THE
ayo
or convex part. What we have Teen among
them, were about the breadth and thicknefs of
an iron-hoop ; and their Angular form fufficiently
proves that they are not of European make,
i hefe iron-tools are fharpened upon a coarfe flate
whetftone, and the whole inftrument is kept con-
tinually bright.
Iron is called by the natives feekemaile , a name
which they alfo give to tin, and other white
metals. It being fo common among thefe peo-
ple, we were anxious to difcover how it could
be conveyed to them. As foon as we arrived in
the Sound, we perceived that they had a know-
ledge of traffic, and an inclination to purfue it ;
and we were afterwards convinced that they had
not acquired this knov/ledge from a curfory in-
terview with any ftrangers, but it feemed ha-
bitual to them, and was a practice in which they
were well {killed.
With whom they carry on this traffic, we can-
not afcertain ; for, though we faw leveral articles
of European manufacture, or fuch, at leaf!, as had
been derived from fome civilized nation, fuch
as brafs and iron, it does not certainly follow
that they were received immediately from thefe
nations. For we never could obtain the leaft in-
formation of their having feen fliips, like ours,
before, nor of their having been engaged in com-
merce with fuch people. Many circumftances
corroborate to prove this beyond a doubt. On
o. our
pacific ocean.
171
our arrival, they were earned in their enquiries,
whether we meant to fettle amongd them, and
whether we were friendly vifitors ; informing 11s,
at the fame time, that they freely gave us wood
and water from motives of friendfhip.
This diffidently proves, that they confidered
themfelves as proprietors of the place, and dread-
ed no fuperiority : for it would have been an un-
natural enquiry, if any fhips had been here be-
fore, and had fupplied themfelves with wood and
water, and then departed ; for they might then
reafonably expedt that we fhould do the fame.
It mud be admitted, indeed, that they exhibited
no marks of furprize at beholding our fhips; but
this may, with great propriety, be attributed to
their natural indolence of temper, and their want-
ing a third of curiofity. They were never dartled
at the report of a mufquet, till they, one day,
fliewed us that their hide-drefies were impene-
trable to their fpears and arrows ; when one of
our people fhot a mufquet ball through one of
them that had been fix times folded. Their ado-
nifhment at this, plainly indicated their igno-
rance of theeffedt of fire-arms. This was after-
wards very frequently confirmed, when we ufed
them to fiioot birds, at which they appeared
greatly confounded. And our explanation of the
piece, together with the nature of its operation,
with the aid of fhot and ball, druck them fo
forcibly.
^72 A VOYAGE TO THE
Forcibly, as to convince us of their having no
previous ideas on this matter.
1 hough Tome account of a voyage to this coaft,
by the Spaniards, in 1774, or 1775, arrived
in England before we failed, the circumftances
juft mentioned Sufficiently prove, that thefe Ihips
had never been at Nootka *. It was alfo evident,
that iron would not have been in fo many hands,
nor would the ufe of it have been fo well known,
if they had lb lately obtained the firft knowledge
of it.
From their general ufe of this metal, it pro-
bably comes from fome conftant fource, in the
way of traffic, and they have perhaps been long
Supplied with it ■, for they ufe their tools with as
much dexterity as the longeft pradtice can ac-
quire. The moft natural conjedture, therefore,
is, that they trade for their iron with other In-
• dian tribes, who may have fome communication
with European fettlements upon that continent,
or receive it through feveral intermediate nati-
ons. By the fame means they probably obtain
their brafs and copper.
Not only the rude materials, but fome manu-
fadtured articles feem to find their way hither.
The brafs ornaments for nofes are made in fo
mafterly a manner, that the Indians cannot be
* It has fince appeared, that they were not within two
degrees of Nootka, and probably the inhabitants of that
place never heard of thefe Spaniih Ihips.
5 . fup-
PACIFIC OCEAN. 1"] $
fuppofed ,capable of fabricating them. We are
certain, that the materials are European, as all
* *
the Ame^can tribes are ignorant of the method
of making brafs ; though copper has been fre-
quently met with, and, from its du&ility, might
eafily be fafhioned into any fhape, and polifhed.
If fuch articles are not ufed by our traders to
Hudfon’s Bay and Canada, in their traffic with
the natives, they mult have been introduced at
Nootka from Mexico; whence, it is probable,
the two fiver table fpoons were originally de-
rived.
Little knowledge can we be fuppofed to have
acquired of the political and religious inftituti-
ons eltablifhed among thefe people. We difco-
vered, however, that there were fuch men as
chiefs, diftinguifhed by the title of Aczveek, to
v/hom the others are, in fome degree, fubordi-
natc. But the authority of each of thefe great
men, feems to extend no farther than to his own
family, who acknowledge him as their head. As
they were not all elderly men, it is poffible this
title may be hereditary.
Nothing that we faw could give us any infight
into their notions of religion, except the figures
already mentioned, called Klumma. Thefe, per-
haps, were idols ; bur, as the word ac-week was
frequently mentioned when they fpoke of them,
we may fuppofe them to be the images of fom^
of their anceftors, whofe memories they venerate.
Vol. II.—n° ii. T This,
2174 A VOYAGE TO THE
This, however, is all conjecture, for we could
receive no information' concerning them ; know-
ing little more of their language thnc' to enable
us to afk the names of things, and being inca-
pable of holding any converfation with the na-
tives, relative to their traditions, or their infti-
tutions.
Their language is neither harfh nor difagree-
able, farther than proceeds from their pronoun-
cing the k and h with lefs foftnefs than we do.
As to the compofition of their language, we are
enabled to fay but little. It may, however, be
inferred, from their flow and diftinCt method of
fpeaking, that it has few prepofitions or conjunc-
tions, and is deftitute of even a fingle interjec-
tion to exprefs furprize or admiration. The af-
finity it may bear to other languages, we have
not been able iufficiently to trace, not having
proper fpecimens to compare it with; but, from
the few Mexican words we have procured, there
is an obvious agreement, throughout the lan-
guage, in the frequent terminations of the words
in /, //, or z.
The word z uakafh was frequently in the mouths
of the people of Nootka. It feemed to exprefs
approbation, applaufe, and friendfhip. When-
ever they appeared to be pleafed or fatisfied at
any fight or occurrence, they would call out
\vakajh ! wakajh ! — It is worthy of remark, that
as tlvele people fo efientially differ from the na-
tives
PACIFIC OCEAN.
MS
rives of the iflands in the Pacific Ocean, in their
perfons, cuftoms, and language, we cannot fup-
pol'e their refpedlive progenitors to have be-
longed to the fame tribe, when they emigrated
into thofe places where we now find their de-
fendants.
C H A P. IV.
A Storm — The Refolution fprings a Leak — Progrefs
of the Ships along the North-American Coajl —
An Inlet named Crofs Sound — Beering’s Bay — •
Cape Suckling — Account of Kaye's If and- — Our
Ships anchor near Cape Ilinchinghroke — The Na-
tives vifit us — Their Fondnefs for Beads and
Iron — Their daring Attempt to carry off one of
our Boats — They alfo attempt to plunder the Dtf-
covery — Progrefs up the Sound — Mr. Gore and
the Mafter fent to examine its Extent — Montague
If and— The Ships leave the Sound.
WE have already mentioned, that we put
to fea, in the evening of the 26th of
April, with manifeft indications of an approach-
ing ftorm ; and thefe figns did not deceive us.
We had fcarce failed out of the Sound, when the
T 2 wind
27^ A VOYAGE TO THE
wind fhifted from north-eaft to fouth-eaft by eaft,
and blew a ftrong gale, with fqualls and rain,
the fky being at the fame time uncommonly dark.
Being apprehcnfive of the wind’s veering more
to the fouth, which would expofe us to the dan-
ger of a lee-fhore, we got the tacks on board,
and made all the fail we could to the fouth-weft.
It fortunately happened, that the wind veered no
further towards the fouth, than fouth-eaft ; fo
that, early the next morning, we were entirely
clear of the coaft. Captain Clerke’s (hip being
at fome diftance aftern, the Commodore brought
to, till (he came up, and then both vefiels fleer-
ed a north- wefterly courfe. The wind blew with
great violence, and the weather was thick and
hazy. Between one and two o’clock in the af-
ternoon, there was a perfect hurricane ; fo that
the Commodore deemed it exceedingly dange-
rous to run any longer before it : he therefore
brought the Chips to, with their heads to the
fouth. In this fituation, the Refolution fprung
a leak, in her (larboard quarter, which, at fifft,
alarmed us extremely ; but, after the water
was baled out, which kept us employed till mid-
night, it was kept under by means of one pump.
The wind having, in the evening, veered to the
louthward, its fury in fome meafure. abated ;
upon which we ftretched to the well ; but about
eleven, the gale again increased, and continued
6 till
PACIFIC OCEAN. ^77
till five the next morning, when the ftorm began
to moderate.
The weather now clearing up, we were able to
fee feveral leagues around us, and fleered more
to the north. At noon, our longitude was 2290
26' eafl; and our latitude, 50° i1 north. We
now fleered north-weft by north, with a frefli
sale, and fair weather. But, towards the even-
ing, the wind again blew hard, with fqualls and
rain. With this weather, we continued the fame
courfe till the 30th, when we fleered north by
weft, intending to make the land. Captain Cook
resretted that he could not do it fooner, as we
were now palling the fpot where the pretended
ftrait of Admiral de Fonte has been placed by
geographers. Though the Captain gave no credit
to fuch vague and improbable ftories, he was de-
firous of keeping the coaft of America aboard,
that this point might be cleared up beyond dif-
pute. But he confidered, that it would have
been very imprudent to have engaged with the
land while the weather was fo tempeftuous, or to
have loft the advantage of a fair wind, by wait-
ing for lefs ftormy weather. This day, at twelve
o’clock, our latitude was 530 22' north, and our
longitude 2250 14' eaft.
On Friday the ill of May, not feeing land,
we fleered to the north-eaft, having a frefli breeze
at fouth-fouth-eaft and fouth, with fqualls and
fhowers of hail and rain. About feven o’clock
T 3
in
278
A VOYAGE TO THE
in the evening, we defcried the land, at the dis-
tance of twelve or fourteen leagues. At four the
next morning, the coaft was feen from fouth-eaft
to north by weft, the neareft part of it being five
or fix leagues diftant. At this time, the northern
point of an inlet, or, at leaft, what appeared to
be one, bore eaft by fouth ; and from it to the
northward, there feemed to be many bays and
harbours along the coaft. At fi$ o’clock, makr
ing a nearer approach to the land, we fleered
north-weft by north, this being the diredlion of
the coaft j and, between eleven and twelve, we
pafied a duller of little iflands Situate near the
continent, to the northward of the Southern point
of an extenfive bay. An arm of this bay feemed
to extend in towards the north, behind a round
lofty mountain that Hands between it and the fea.
To this mountain Captain Cook gave the name
of Mount Edgecumbej and the point of land
projecting from it, he called Cape Edgecumbe.
The latitude of this cape is 570 31 north, and its
longitude 2240 7' eaft. The land, except in
fome parts clofe to the fea, is of a confiderable
height, abounding with hills. Mount Edge-
cumbe, which far out-tops all the reft, was en-
tirely covered with fnow, as were alio the other
elevated hills ; but the lower ones, and the flatter
Spots near the fea, were deftitute of it, and co-
vered with wood.
. • . V -1 » 1 . 4 ' * * 1
pacific ocean. 279
In our progrefs to the northward, we found
that the coaft from Cape Edgecumbe trended to
the north and north-eaft for fix or Even leagues,
and there formed a Ipacious bay. 1 here being
fome illands in the entrance of this bay, the
Commodore named it the Bay of Illands. It
feemed to branch out into feveral arms, one of
which turned towards the louth, and may pei-
haps communicate with the bay on the eaftern
fide of Cape Edgecumbe, and thus render the land
of that cape an ifland. On the 3d, at half an
hour after four in the morning, Mount Edge-
cumbe bore fquth 54° eafl j a large inlet, noith
50° eafl ; and the moft advanced point of land
towards the north-weft, lying under a very lofty
peaked mountain, which obtained the appellation
of Mount Fair-Weather, bore north 320 weft.
The inlet we named Crofs Sound, having ftrft
obferved it on the day fo marked in our calen-
dar. The fouth eaftern point of this Sound is an
eleyatcd promontory, which we diftinguifhed by
the name of Crofs Cape. To the point under
the above-mentioned peaked mountain, we gave
the name of Cape Fair-Weather, At noon, this
cape was diftant twelve or thirteen leagues.
We had now light breezes from the north-
weft, which continued feveral days. We fleered,
to the fouth-weft, and weft-fouth-weft, till the
morning of the 4th, when we tacked and flood
towards the fhore. At twelve o’clock, Mount
T 4 Fait-
2.3o
A VOYAGE TO THE
Fair-Weather bore north 63° eaft, and the fhore
under it was about a dozen leagues diftant. This
mount is the higheft of a chain or ridge of moun-
tains, that rife at the north-weftern entrance of
Crofs Sound, and extend towards the north- weft,
parallel with the coaft. Thefe mountains were
covered with fnow, from the higheft fummit
down to the fea-coaft ; except a few places, where
we could difcern trees that feemed to rife, as it
were, from the fea. About five o’clock in the
afternoon, the top of a high mountain appeared
above the horizon, bearing north 26° weft, and,
as we afterwards found, near forty leagues dif-
tant. We fuppofed that it was the mount St.
Elias of Commodore Beering. We faw, in the
courfe of this day, feveral porpoifes, feals, and
whales ; alfo great numbers of gulls, and many
flocks of birds which had a black circle about
the head, and a black band on the tip of the tail
and upper part of the wings, the reft being white
below and blueifh above. We likewife obferved
a brownifti duck, with a blackifh or dark-blue
head and neck.
As we had light winds, with occafional calms,
we proceeded but flowly. On the 6th, at mid-
day, the neareft land was at the diftance of about
eight leagues. In a north-eafterly direction, there
appeared to be a bay, and an ifland near its
fouthern point, covered with wood. This is pro-
bably the place where Beering anchored. South-
ward
PACIFIC OCEAN.
28l
ward of the bay (which Captain Cook named
Beering’s Bay, in honour of its difcoverer) the
rido-e of mountains, already mentioned, is inter-
rupted by a plain of feveral leagues in extent, be-
yond which the fight was unbounded. In the
afternoon, we founded, and found a muddy bot-
tom at the depth of about feventy fathoms. Soon
afterwards, having a light northerly breeze, we
fteered to the weftward and at noon, the next
day, we were at the diftance of four or five leagues
from the fhore. From this ftation we could per-
ceive a bay under the high land, with low wood-
land on each fide of it. We now found that the
coaft trended confiderably to the weft ; and as we
had but little wind, and that chiefly from the
weftward, we made a flow progrefs. On the 9th,
about noon. Mount St. Elias bore north 30° eaft,
at the diftance of nineteen leagues. This moun-
tain ftands twelve leagues inland, in the longi-
tude of 2 1 90 eaft, and in the latitude of 6o° 27'
north. It belongs to a ridge of very lofty moun-
tains, which may be reckoned a kind of conti-
nuation of the former, being feparated from them
only by the plain before-mentioned.
On Sunday the 10th, at twelve o’clock, we
were about three leagues diftant from the coaft of
the continent, which extended from eaft half
north, to north-weft half weft. To the weftward
of the latter direction was an ifland, at the dif-
tance of fix leagues. A point, which the Com-
modore
282
A VOYAGE TO THE
modore named Cape Suckling, projects towards
the north-eaftern end of this illand. The extre-
mity of the cape is low ; but, within it, Hands
3 confider^ble height, which is divided
fiom the mountains by low land ; To that the
cape, at a diflance, has an infular appearance.
On the north fide of Cape Suckling is a bay,
which feemed to be extejifi.ve, and to be fhelter-
ed from moft winds. Captain Cook had fome
thoughts of repairing to this bay, in order to flop
the leak of his fhip, all our endeavours to effect
that purpofe at fea having proved fruitlefs. We
therefore freered for the cape } but, having only
variable light breezes, wp advanced towards it
flowly. Before night, however, we had approach-
ed near enough to fee fome Jow land projecting
fi om the cape to the north-weft : we alfo obferv-
ed fome little iflands in the bay, and feveral ele-
vated rocks between the cape and the north-
eaftern extremity of the ifland. As there ap-
peared to be a paffage on each fide of thefe rocks,
we continued fleering thither the whole night.
Early the next morning, the wind fhifted from
north-eafl to north. This being againfl us, the
Commodore relinquifhed his defign of going into
the bay, and bore up for the weft end of the ifland.
There being a calm about ten o’clock, he em-
barked in a boat, and landed on the ifland, with
a view of feeing what lay on the other fide; but
finding that the hills were at a greater diftance
thag
PACIFIC OCEAN. 2,&3
than he expe&ed, and that the way was woody
and fteep, he laid afide that intention. On a
fmall eminence near the lhore, he left, at the
foot of a tree, a bottle containing a paper, on
which the names of our (hips, and the date of our
difcovery, were infcribed : he alfo inclofed two
filver two-penny pieces of Englilh coin, which,
with many others, had been furnilhed him by Dr.
Kaye, now Dean of Lincoln ; and in teftimony
of his efteem for that gentleman, he diftinguiffi-
ed the ifland by the name ol Kaye’s Ifland.
This ifle does not exceed twelve leagues in
length, and its breadth is not above a league and
a half in any part of it. The fouth-weft point,
whofe latitude is 590 49' north, and longitude
2 1 6° 58' eaff, is a naked rock, confiderably ele-
vated above the land within it. There is alfo a
high rock lying off it, which, when feen in fome
particular direftions, has the appearance of a ru-
inous caftle. The ifland terminates, towards the
fea, in bare Hoping cliffs, with a beach confifting
of large pebbles, intermixed in fome places with
a clayey fand. The cliffs are compofed of a
blueifh ftone or rock, and are, except in a few
parts, in a foft or mouldering ftate. Some parts
of the fliore are interrupted by fmall vallies and
gullies, in each of which a rivulet or torrent
rufhes down with a conliderable degree of impe-
tuofity; though, perhaps, only furnifhed from
the fnow, and lading no longer than till the whole
4 is
2*4 A VOYAGE TO THE
is diffolved. Thefe vallies are filled with pine-
tiees; and they alfo abound in other parts of the
ifland, which, indeed, is covered, as it were, with
a broad girdle of wood. The trees, however,
are far from being of an extraordinary growth ;
few of them feeming to be larger than v/hat a per-
fon might grafp round with his arms, and their
general height being forty or fifty feet; fo that
they would be of no great fervice for Ihipping,
except as materials for making top-gallant-mafts,
and other fmall things. The pine-trees appear-
ed to be all of one fpecies; and neither the Ca-
nadian pine, nor cyprefs, was to be feen.
Upon the edges of the cliffs, the furface was
covered with a kind of turf, about fix inches
thick, apparently compofed of the common mofs;
and the upper part of the ifiand had nearly the
fame appearance in point of colour ; but that
which covered it, whatever it was, feemed to be
thicker. Among the trees were fome currant
and hawberry bufhes, a yellow-flowered violet,
and the leaves of other plants not yet in flower,
particularly one which was fuppofed by Mr. An-
derlon to be the heracleum of Linnaeus.
A crow was feen flying about the wood ; two
or three white-headed eagles, like thofe of Noot-
ka, were alfo obferved ; befides another fpecies
equally large, which had a white bread. The
Commodore like wife faw, in his paffage from the
fhip to the fhore, a number of fowls fitting on
the
PACIFIC OCEAN.
285
the water, or flying about; the principal of
which were gulls, burres, Drags, ducks or largo
petrels, divers, and quebrantahuefies. The divers
were of two forts ; one very large, whole colour
was black, with a white belly and bread: ; the
other of a fmaller fize, with a longer and more
pointed bill. The ducks were alfo of two fpe-
cies ; one brownifh, with a dark-blue or blackifh
head and neck ; the other fmaller, and of a dirty
black colour. - The (hags were large and black,
having a white fpot behind the wings. The
gulls were of the common fort, flying in flocks.
There was alfo a Angle bird flying about, ap-
parently of the gull kind, whofe colour was a
fnowy white, with fome black along part of the
upper fide of its wings. At the place where our
party landed, a fox came from the verge of the
wood, and eying them with little emotion, walk-
ed leifurely on without manifefiing any figns of
fear. He was not of a large fize, and his colour
was a reddifh yellow. Two or three final! feals
were likewife feen near the fhore; but no traces
were difeovered of inhabitants having ever been
in the ifiand.
Captain Cook, with thofe who accompanied
him, returned on board in the afternoon, and,
with a light breeze from the eafi, fleered for the
fouth-wefl fide of the ifland, which we got round
by eight o’clock in the evening : we then flood
for the wefternmofi land that was now in fight.
At
A VOYAGE TO THE
At the north-eaft end of Kaye's Ifland Hands ano-
ther ifland, extending north-weft and fouth-eaft
about nine miles, to within the fame diftance of
the north-weltern boundary of the bay mentioned
before, to which the appellation of Comptroller’s
Bay was given. Early the next morning Kaye’s
Illand was ftill in fight, bearing eaft by fouth j
and, at this time, we were at the diftance of four
or five leagues from the main. At noon, the
eaftern point of a fpacious inlet bore weft-north-
weft, about three leagues diftant. From Comp-
troller’s Bay to this point, which the Commodore
named Cape Hinchingbroke, the diredtion of the
coaft is nearly eaft and weft. Beyond this, it
appeared to incline towards the fouth ; a direction
very different from that which is marked our in
the modern charts, founded on the late difeoveries
of the Ruffians ; infomuch that we had feme rea-
fon to expedt, that we fhould find, through the
inlet before us, a paffage to the north, and that
the land to the weft and fouth-weft was a group
of iflands. The wind was now fouth-eafterly,
and we were menaced with a fog- and a ftorm i
and Captain Cook was defirous of getting into
fome place to ftop the leak, before we had ano-
ther gale to encounter. We therefore fleered for
the inlet, which we had no fooner reached, than
the weather became exceedingly foggy, and it
was deemed neceflary that the fhips fhould be fe-
cured in fome place or other, till the fky fhould
clear
PACIFIC OCEAN.
287
dear up. With this view we hauled clofe under
Cape Hinchingbroke, and call anchor before a
iVnall cove, over a clayey bottom, in eight fa-
thoms water, at the diftance of about two fur-
longs from the fiiore.
Soon after we had anchored, the boats weie
hoifted out, fome to fifh, and others to found.
The feine, at the fame time, was drawn in the
cove; but without fuccefs, as it was torn. At
intervals, the fog cleared away, and gave us a
view of the neighbouring land. The cape was
one league diftant ; the weftern point of the inlet, ,
five leagues ; and the land on that fide extended
to weft by north. Between this point and north-
weft by weft, we could difcern no land. The
moft wefterly point we had in view on the north
fhore, was at the diftance of two leagues. Be-
twixt this point, and the fhore under which our
fhips now lay at anchor, is a bay about three
leagues deep, on the fouth-eaftern fide of which
are feveral coves ; and, in the middle, ftand fome
rocky iflands.
Mr. Gore was difpatched in a boat to thefe
iflands, in order to flioot fome birds that might
ferve for food. He had fcarcely reached them,
when about twenty natives appeared, in two large
canoes ; upon which he returned to the fhips,
and they followed him. They were unwilling,
Iv wever, to venture along-fide, but kept at a
little diftance, fhouting aloud, and clafping and
extend-
A VOYAGE TO THE
t s$
extending their arms alternately. They then be-
gan a kind of Tong, much after the manner of
the inhabitants of King George’s or Nootka Sound.
Their heads were drewed with feathers, and one
of them held out a white garment, which we
fuppofed was intended as a token of friendfhip ;
while another, for near a quarter of an hour,
flood up in the canoe, entirely naked, with his
arms extended like a crofs, and motionlefs.
Their canoes were conducted upon a different
plan from thofe of Nootka. The frame confided
of flender laths, and the outfide was. formed of
the fkins of feals, or other animals of a fimilar
kind. Though we returned their figns of amity,
and endeavoured, by the mod expredive gedures,
to encourage them to come along-fide, we were
unable to prevail upon them. Though fome of
our people repeated feveral of the mod common
words of the language of Nootka, fuch as makook
and feekemaile, they did not appear to underdand
them. After they had received fome prefects
that were thrown to them, they retired towards
the fliore, intimating, by figns, that they would
pay us another vifit the next morning. Two of
them, however, came off to us in the night, each
in a finall canoe 3 hoping, perhaps, that they
might find us all afleep, and might have an op-
portunity of pilfering ; for they went away as
foon as they perceived themfelves dilcovered.
The
PACIFIC OCEAN k 289
The wind, during the night, blew hard and
in fqualls, with rain, and thick hazy weather.
The next morning, about ten, the wind becom-
ing more moderate, and the weather in fome
meafure clearing up, we got up our anchors and
made fail, in order to fearch for fome convenient
place where we might flop the leak, as our pre-
fent llation was too much expofed for that pur-
pofe. Captain Cook at firft propofed to have
gone up the bay before which our fhips had an-
chored; but he was afterwards induced by the
clearnefs of the weather, to fleer towards the
north, further up the great inlet. After we had
paffed the north-weft point of the above menti-
oned bay, we found that the coaft, on that fide;
inclined to the eaftward. We did not follow it*
but proceeded on our courfe to the northward;
for a point of land which we obferved in that
direction.
The Americans who had vifited us the pre-
ceding day, came off again in the morning, in
five or fix canoes j but as they did not come till
after we were under fail, they were unable to
reach the fhips, though they followed us for a
confiderable time. In the afternoon, before two
o’clock, the unfavourable weather returned, with
fo thick a haze, that we could difcern no other
land but the point juft mentioned; off which we
arrived between four and five o’clock, and found
it to be a little ifland, fituate at the diftance of
Vol. II.— n° 1 1. U about
290
A VOYAGE TO THE
about two miles from the neighbouring coafl,
being a point of land, on the eaflern fide of
which we diicovered an excellent bay, or rather
harbour. To this we plied up, while the wind
blew in very hard fqualls, accompanied with
rain. Though, at fome intervals, we could fee
land in every direction, yet, in general, there was
fo great a fog, that we could only perceive the
fhores of the bay for which we were now fleering.
In paffing the ifland, we found a muddy bottom,
at the depth of twenty-fix fathoms. Not long
after, we found fixty and feventy fathoms, over
a rocky bottom ; and, in the entrance of the bay,
the depth of water was from thirty to fix fathoms.
At length, about eight o’clock, we were obliged
by the violence of the fqualls, to call anchor in
thirteen fathoms water, before we had proceeded
fo far into the bay as the Commodore intended ;
but we thought ourfelves fortunate in having the
Chips already fecured ; for the night was extreme-
ly tempeftuous.
Though the weather was fo turbulent, the na-
tives were not deterred from paying us a vifit.
Three of them came off in two canoes ; two
men in one, and one in the other, being the num-
ber that each canoe could carry. For they were
conflrucled nearly in the fame manner with thole
of the Efquimaux, except that in one of them
were two holes for two perfons to fit in, and in
the other but one. Thefe men had each a flick.
pacific ocean. 291
of the length of about three feet, with the large
feathers, or wings of birds, fattened to it.
Thefe they frequently held up to us, probably
as tokens of peace. The treatment thefe three
received, induced many others to vifit us, be-
tween one and two o’clock the following morn-
ing, in both great and fmall canoes. Some of
them ventured on board the Refolution, though
not before fome of our people had ftepped into
their boats. Among thofe who came on board,
was a middle-aged man, who, as we afterwards
found, was the chief. His drefs was made of the
Ikin of the fea-otter, and he had on his head fuch
a cap as is worn by the inhabitants of Nootka,
embelliflied with fky-blue glafs beads. He ap-
peared to value thefe much more than our white
glais beads. Any kind of beads, however, feem-
ed to be in high eftimation among thefe people,
who readily gave in exchange for them whatever
they had, even their fine fea-otter fkins.
They were very defirous of iron, but abfolutely
rejected fmall bits, and wanted pieces nine or
ten inches long at leatt, and of the breadth of
three or four fingers. They obtained but little
of this commodity from us, as, by this time, it
was become rather fcarce. The points of fome
of their fpears were of this metal ; others were
of copper j and a few were of bone •, of which
laft the points of their arrows, darts, &c. were
formed.
U 2
The
The chief could not be prevailed upon to ven-
ture below the upper deck, nor did he and his
companions continue long on board. While
they were with us, it was neceffary to watch them
narrowly, as they foon manifefted an inclination
for thieving. At length, when they had been
three or four hours along-fide the Refoludon,
they all quitted her, and repaired to the Difco-
very, which fhip none of them had before been
on board of, except one man, who came from
her at this very time, and immediately returned
to her, in company with the others. As foon as
they had departed from our fhip. Captain Cook
difpatched a boat to found the head of the bay ;
for, as the wind was moderate at prefen t, he had
an intention of laying the fhip afhore, if a proper
place could be found for the procefs of (topping,
the leak. Soon afterwards all the Americans
quitted the Dilcovery, and made their way to-
wards our boat that was employed in founding.
The officer who was in her, obferving their ap-
proach, returned to the fhip, and all the canoes
followed him. The crew of the boat had no
fooner repaired on board, leaving in her, by way
of guard, two of their number, than feveral of
the natives ftepped into her ; fome of whom pre-
fented their fpears before the two men, while
others loofed the rope by which fhe was faftened
to the lhip, and the reft were fo daring as to at-
tempt to tow her away. But the moment they
faw
pacific ocean.
293
law that we were preparing to oppofe them, they
let her go, ftepped out of her into their own
boats, and made figns to us to perfuade us to
lay down our arms, being, to all appearance, per-
fectly unconcerned.
This attempt, though a very bold one, was^
fcarce equal to what they had meditated on board
Captain Clcrke’s hup. The man whom we men-
tioned before as having conducted his country-
men from the Refolution to the Difcovery, had
firft been on board of the latter ; where, looking
down all the hatchways, and obferving no one
except the officer of the watch, and one or two
others, he doubtlefs imagined that flie might be
plundered with eafe, particularly as ffie was fta-
tioned at fomc diftance from the Refolution. It
was unqueftionably with this intent, that the na-
tives went off to her. Several of them went on
board without the leaft ceremony, and drawing
their knives, made figns to the officer, and the
other people upon deck, to keep off', and began
to fearch for plunder. The firft thing they laid
hold of was the rudder of one of our boats, which
they immediately threw overboard to thofe of
their party who had continued in the canoes. But
before they had time to find another objecft that
ftruck their fancy, the ffiip’s crew were alarmed,
and many of them, armed with cutlaffes, came
upon deck. On obferving this, the plunderers
all fneaked off into their canoes, with evident
U 3 marks
29 4 A VOYAGE TO THE
marks of indifference. It was at this time, that
our boat was occupied in founding, as we have
already mentioned ; and the natives, without de-
lay, proceeded towards her, after the difappoint-
ment they had met with at the Difcovery. Their
vifiting us fo early in the morning was undoubt-
edly with a view of plundering, on a fuppofition
tnat they fhould find all our people afleep
From the circumltances above related, it may
reafonably be inferred, that thefe people are not
acquainted with fire-arms. For, had they known
any thing of their effed, they would by no means
have ventured to attempt carrying off a boat from
undci a fli ip s guns, in the face of upwards of a
hundred men; for moft of the Refolution’s peo-
ple were looking at them, at the very inftant of
their making the attempt. However, we left
them as ignorant, in this particular, as we found
them ; for they neither law nor heard a mufquet
fired, except at birds.
As we were on the point of weighing anchor,
in order to proceed further up the bay, the wind
began to blow as violently as before, and was at-
tended with rain ; infomuch that we were oblig-
ed to bear away the cable again, and lie faff. In
the evening, perceiving that the gale did
not abate, and thinking that it might be fome
time before an opportunity of getting higher up
prefented itlelf, the Commodore was determined
to heel the fhip in our prefent ftation ; and, with
that
- *
PACIFIC OCEAN.
29S
that view, caufed her to be moored with akedge-
anchor and hawfer. One of the Tailors, in heav-
incr the anchor out pf the boat, was carried over-
board by the buoy-rope, and accompanied the
anchor to the bottom. In this very hazardous
fituation, he had fufficient prefence of mind to
difengage himfelf,- and come up to the furface of
the water, where he was immediately taken up,
with a dangerous fradture in one of his legs.
Early the following morning, we heeled the Chip,
in order to flop the leak, which, on ripping off
the fheathing, was found to be in the feams.
While the carpenters were employed in this bu-
finefs, others of our people filled the water-calks
at a ftream not far from our ftation. The wind
had, by this time, confiderably abated ; but the
weather was hazy, with rain. The Americans
paid us another vifit this morning: thofe who
came off firft, were in fmall canoes ; others ar-
rived afterwards in large ones. In one of thefe
great canoes were twenty women and one man,
befides ieveral children.
On Saturday the 1 6th, towards the evening, the
weather cleared up, and we then found ourfelves
encompaffed with land. Our ftation was on the
eaftern fide of the Sound, in a place diftinguifh-
ed by the appellation of Snug Corner Bay, Cap-
tain Cook, accompanied by lbme of his officers,
went to take a lurvey of the head of it; and
they found that it was flickered from all winds,
U 4 and
A VOYAGE TO THE
and had a muddy bottom at the depth of from
feven to three fathoms. The land near the ffiore
is low ; partly wooded, and partly clear. The
cleai giound was covered with fnow, but very
little i emained in the woods. The fummits of
the hills in the neighbourhood were covered with
wood j but thofe that were at a greater diftance
inland, had the appearance of naked rocks, in-
volved in fnow.
d he leak of the Refolution being at length
flopped, we weighed anchor on the 17th, at four
in the morning, and fleered a north-weft courfe,
with a gentle breeze at eafl-north-eafl. Soon
after we had made fail, the Americans vifited us
again, feemingly with no other view than to gra-
tify their curiofity, for they did not enter into any
traffic with us. When we had reached the north-
weflern point of the arm wherein we had anchor-
ed, we obferved that the flood-tide came into the
inlet, by the lame channel through which we had
entered. Ihis circumflance did not much con-
tribute to the probability of a paffiage to the north
through the inlet, though it did not make en-
tirely again!! it. After we had paffied the point
juft mentioned, we met with much foul ground,
and many funken rocks. The wind now failed
us, and was fucceeded by calms and variable lio-ht
airs, fo that we had fome difficulty in extricat-
ing ourfelves from the danger that threatened us.
At laft, however, about one o’clock, we caft an-
• , ,
chor
PACIFIC OCEAN. 2-97
chor in about thirteen fathoms water, under the
eaftern Ihore, about four leagues to the north-
ward of our laft ftation. Though the weather,
in the morning, had been very hazy, it cleared
up afterwards, fo as to afford us a diftin<5t view
of all the furrounding land, particularly towards
the north, where it appeared to clofe. This gave
us but little hope of meeting with a paffage that
way. That he might be enabled to form a bet-
ter judgment, Captain Cook fent Mr. Gore, with
two armed boats, to examine the northern arm ;
and at the fame time difpatched the Matter, with
two other boats, to furvey another arm that
feemed to incline towards the eaft. Both of them
returned at night. The Matter informed the
Commodore, that the arm, to which he had been
fent, communicated with that we had laft quit-
ted, and that one fide of it was formed by a
clutter of ifiands. Mr. Gore reported, that he
had feen the entrance of an arm, which, he
thought, extended a very confiderable way to the
north-eaftward, and by which a paffage might
probably be found. On the other hand, Mr.
Roberts, one of the Mates, who had accompa-
nied Mr. Gore on this occafion, gave it as his
opinion, that they faw the head of this arm.
The variation of thefe two opinions, and the cir-
cumftance before-mentioned of the flood-tide en-
tering the inlet from the fouthward, rendered the
exiftence of a paffage this way extremely uncer-
tain.
£9^ A VOYAGE TO THE
tain. Captain Cook therefore determined to em-
ploy nomore time in feeking a paffage in a place
that afforded fo fmall a profpedt of fuccefs, par-
ticularly as the wind was now become favourable
for getting out to fea.
The next morning, about three o’clock, we
weighed, and made fail to the fouthward down
the inlet, with a light northerly breeze. We
met with the fame broken ground as on the
preceding day, but foon extricated ourfelves
from it. Wc were enabled to fhorten our
way out to fea, by difcovering another paffage
into this inlet, to the fouth-weft of that by which
we entered. It is feparated from the other, by
an ifland that extends eighteen leagues in the di-
rection of fouth-weft and north-eaft, to which
Captain Cook gave the appellation of Montagu
Ifland.
There are feveral iflands in this fouth-weftern
channel. Thofe which are fituate in the entrance,
next the open fea, are elevated and rocky. Thofe
that are within, are low'; and as they were to-
tally free from fnow, and covered with wood and
verdure, they were, for this reafon, denominated
Green Iflands.
The wind, at two o’clock in the afternoon,
veered to the fouth-weft, and fouth-weft by fouth,
which fubjected us to the neceffity of plying.
We fir ft ftretched over to within the diftance of
two miles of the eaftern fhore, and tacked in about
fifty-
PACIFIC OCEAN. 299
fifcy-three fathoms. As we flood back to
Montagu Ifland, we discovered a ledge of rocks,
fome under water, and others above the Surface.
We afterwards met with fome others towards the
middle of the channel. Thefe rocks rendering
it unfafe to ply during the night, we fpent it in
{landing off and on, under Montagu Ifland ; for
the depth of water was fo great, that we could
not caff anchor. The next morning, at break
of day, we fleered for the channel between the
Green iflands and Montagu Ifland, which is about
two leagues and an half in breadth. The wind was
in considerable the whole day; and, about eight
in the evening, we had a perfedl calm ; when we
let go our anchors at the depth of twenty-one
fathoms, over a muddy bottom, about the dis-
tance of two miles from Montagu Ifland. After
the calm had continued till ten o’clock the Suc-
ceeding morning, a flight breeze Sprung up from
the north, with which we again weighed and made
fail. Having got out into the open fea by fix
in the evening, we difeovered that the coaft
trended weft by South, as far as the eye could
poflibly reach.
chap.
jCO
A VOYAGE TO TIIE
CHAP. V.
Extent of Prince William's Sound — The Perjons of
its Inhabitants defcribed — Their Drefs — Re-
markable Cujlom of making an Incifion in the
Under-lip — Their various Ornaments — Canoes —
W eapons — Armour — Domejlic Utenfils — Their
Skill in all manual Works — Their Food — A
Specimen of their Language — Quadrupeds —
Birds — Fife — Trees — Conjectures whence they
procure Beads and Iron.
H E inlet which we had now quitted, was
diftinguifhed by Captain Cook with the
name of Prince William’s Sound. From what
we faw of it, it feems to occupy, at leaft, one
degree and an half of latitude, and two degrees
of longitude, exclufive of the branches or arms,
with whole extent we are unacquainted. The
natives whom we faw, were in general of a mid-
dling ftature, though many of them were under
it. They were fquare, or ftrong-chefted, with
fhort thick necks, and large broad vifltges,
which were, for the mod part, rather flat. The
molt difproportioned part of their body appeared
to be their heads, which were of great magni-
tude. Their teeth were of a tolerable whitenefs,
broad, well fet, and equal in fize. Their nofes
had full, round points, turned up at the tip j and
3
their
Cook's Voyage, Octavo Edition .
-
* i ■
PACIFIC OCEAN. 3<^1'
their eyes, though not lmall, were fcarcely pro-
portioned to the largenefs of their faces. They
had black hair, which was ftrong, ftraight, and
thick. Their beards were, in jgeneral, thin, or
deficient ; but the hairs growing about the lips of
thofe who have them, were briftly or ftifr, and
often of a brownifh colour; and fome of the el-
derly men had large, thick, ftraight beards.
Though, for the moft part, they agree in the
formation of their perfons, and the largenefs of
their heads, the variety in their features is confi-
derable. Very few, however, can be faid to be
handfome, though their countenance ufually in-
dicates franknefs, vivacity, and good-nature;
and yet fome of them fhewed a referve and ful-
lennefs in their afpeft. The faces of fome of the
women are agreeable ; and many of them, but
principally the younger ones, may eafily be dif-
tinguilhed from the other fex, by the fuper’ior de-
licacy of their features. The complexion of fome
of the females, and of the children, is white,
without any mixture of red. Many of the men,
whom we faw naked, had rather a fwarthy caft,
which was fcarcely the eftedft of any ftain, as it
is not their cuftom to paint their bodies.
The men, women, and children of this Sound,
are all clothed in the fame manner. Their or-
dinary drefs is a fort of clofe frock, or rather robe,
which fometimes reaches only to the knees, but
generally down to the ancles. It has, at the up-
per
3°2 A VOYACE TO THE
per pait, a hole juft fufficient to admit the head,
with fleeves reaching to the wrift. Thefe frocks
aie compofed of the fkins of various animals,
fuch as the grey fox, racoon, pine-martin, fea-
otter, feal, &c. and they are commonly worn
with the hairy fide outwards. Some of the na-
tives have their frocks made of the fkins of fowls,
with only the down left on them, which they
glue upon other fubftances : we alfo faw one or
two woollen garments, refembling thofe of the
inhabitants of King George’s Sound. At the
Teams, where the different fkins are fewed to-
gether, they are ufually adorned with fringes or
taflels of narrow thongs, cut out of the fame
fkins. There is a fort of cape or collar to a few
of them, and fome have a hood ; but the other
is the moft cuftomary form, and appears to con-
flitute their whole drefs in fair weather. They
put over this, when it is rainy, another frock,
made with fome degree of ingenuity from the
inteftines of whales, or of fome ocher large ani-
mal, prepared with fuch fkill, as to refemble, in
a great meafure, our gold-beaters’ leaf. It is
formed fo as to be drawn tight round the neck ;
and its fleeves extend down to the wrift, round
which they are fattened with a firing. When they
are in their canoes, they draw the fkirts of this
frock over the rim of the hole in which they fit,
fo that the water is prevented from entering. Ac
the fame time it keeps the men dry upwards,
for
PACIFIC OCEAN.
3°3
for no water can penetrate through it. It is apt
to crack or break, if it is not conftantly kept
moift. This frock, as well as the common one
made of Ikins, is nearly fimilar to the drefs
of the natives of Greenland, as defcribed by
Crantz *.
Though the inhabitants of this inlet, in gene-
ral, do not cover their legs or feet, yet fome of
them wear a kind of (kin (lockings, reaching
half-way up their thighs, hew of them are with-
out mittens for their hands, formed from the
fkins of a bear’s paws. Thofe who wear any
thing on their heads, refembled, in this particu-
lar, the people of Nootka, having high trun-
cated conical caps, compofed of draw, and fome-
times of wood.
The hair of the men is commonly cropped
round the forehead and neck, but the females
fuffer it to grow long ; and the greateft part of
them tie a lock of it on the crown, while a few
club it behind, after our method. Both the men
and women perforate their ears with feveral holes,
about the outer and lower part of the edge,
wherein they fufpend fmall bunches of beads.
They alfo perforate the feptum of the nofe,
through which they often thruft the quill-feathers
of birds, or little bending ornaments, made of a
tubulous fhelly fubftance, ftrung on a ftiff cord,
of the length of three or four inches, which give
* Crantz’s Hiftory of Greenland, Vcl, I. p. 136 — 138.
1 them
J04 A VOYAGE TO THE
*
them a ridiculous and grotefque appearance. But
the moft extraordinary ornamental falhion, adopt-
ed by fome of the natives of both fexes, is their
having the under-lip cut quite through length-
wife, rather below the fwelling part. This in-
cifion frequently exceeds two inches in length,
and either by its natural retradtion while the
wound is ftill frefh, or by the repetition of fome
artificial management, affumes the appearance
and Ifiape of lips, and becomes fufficiently large
to admit the tongue through. This happened to
be the cafe, when aperfon with his under-lip thus
flit was firft feen by one of our failors, who im-
mediately exclaimed, that the man had two
mouths ; which, indeed, it greatly refembles.
They fix in this artificial mouth a flat, narrow
kind of ornament, made principally out of
a folid fhell or bone, cut into fmall narrow
pieces, like teeth, almoft down to the bafe, or
thick part, which has, at each end, a projecting
bit, that ferves to fupport it when put into the
divided lip ; the cut part then appearing out-
wards. Some of them only perforate the lower
lip into feparate holes ; on which occafion the
ornament confifts of the fame number of diftindt
fhelly ftuds, the points of which are thruft through
thefe holes, and their heads appear within the
lip, not unlike another row of teeth under their
natural ones.
Such
PACIFIC OCEAN.
3°$
Such are the native ornaments of thele people.
But we obferved among them many beads of Eu-
ropean manufacture, chiefly of a pale blue co-
lour, which are hung in their ears, or about their
caps, or are joined to their lip-ornaments, which
have a little hole drilled in each of the points
to which they are fattened, and others to. them,
till they fometimes even hang as low as the point
of the chin. In this laft cafe, however, they
cannot remove them with fuch facility ; for, with
refpeCt to their oWn lip-ornaments, they can take
them out with their tongue at pleafure. They
likewife wear bracelets of beads made of a fnelly
fubftance, or others of a cylindrical form, com-
pofed of a fubftance refembling amber. And
they are, in general, fo fond of ornaments of
fome kind or other, that they fix any thing in
their perforated lip ; for one of them appeared
with two of our iron nails projecting like prongs
from it; and another man attempted to put a
large brafs button into ir.
The men often paint their faces of a black co-
lour, and of a bright red, and fometimes of a
blueifh or leaden hue ; but not in any regular
figure. The women punCture or ftain the chin
with black, that comes to a point in each of their
cheeks; a cuftom fimilar to which is in vo?ue
among the Greenland females, as we arc inform-
ed by Crantz. The bodies of thele people arc not
painted, which may probably be owing to the
Vol.II. — n° 11. X fcarcity
106 A VOYAGE TO THE
fcarcity of materials for that purpofe; all the co-
lours which they brought for l'aie, being in very
fmall quantities. Upon the whole, we have in
fto country feen favages who take more pains than
thefe do, to ornament, or rather (as we Ihould
think) to disfigure their perfons.
Their canoes are of two forts; the one large
and open, the other fmall and covered. We have
mentioned before, that there were twenty women,
and one man, befides children, in one of their
large boats. Captain Cook having attentively
examined this, and compared its conftruclion
with Crantz’s defcription of the great, or women’s
boat in Greenland, found that they were built in
the lame mode, with no other difference than in
the form of the head and Hern, particularly of the
former, which fomewhat refembles a whale’s head.
The framing confifts of fender pieces of wmod ;
and the ou-tfide is compofed of the fkins of fcals,
or other fea animals, ftretched over the wood.
The fmall canoes of thefe people, are conftru&cd
nearly of the fame form and materials with thole
of the Efquimaux and Greenlanders. Some ol
thefe, as we have already mentioned, carry two
perfons. Their fore-part is curved like the head
of a violin ; and they are broader in proportion
to their length than thole of the Efquimaux.
Their weapons,' and implements for hunting
and filling, are the fame with thole ufed by the
Greenlanders and Efquimaux. Many of their
fpears
3°7
PACIFIC OCEAN.
fpears are headed with iron, and their arrows are
generally pointed with bone. Their larger darts
are thrown by means of a piece of wood about a
foot long, with a fmall groove in the middle,
which receives the dart : at the bottom is a hole
for the reception of one finger, which enables
them to gralp the piece of wood much firmer,
and to throw with greater force. For defenfive
armour they have a fort of jacket, or coat of mail,
formed of laths, faftened together with finews,
which render it very flexible, though it is fo clofe
as not to admit a dart Or arrow. It ferves only
to cover the trunk of the body, and may, not
improperly, be compared to the flays worn by
women.
We had not an opportunity of feeing any of
the habitations of the natives, as none of them
dwelt in the bay where our fhips anchored, or
where any of us landed. With refpect to their
domeflic utenfils, they brought, in their canoes,
fome round and oval wooden difhes, rather fhal-
lowj and others of a cylindrical form, confider-
ably deeper. The fides confifted of one piece,
bent round, after the manner of our chip-boxes,
but thick, and neatly faftened with thongs ; the
bottoms being fixed in with fmall pegs of wood.
Others were fomewhat fmaller, and of a more
elegant figure, not unlike a large oval butter-
boat, without any handle, but fhallower: thefe
were compofedof a piece of wood, or fome horny
X 2 fub-
fubflance, and were fometimes neatly carved.
I hey had a number of little fquare bags, made
of the fame gut with their exterior frocks, curi-
oufly adorned with very fmall red feathers inter-
woven with it, in which were contained feveral
very fine finews, and bundles of fmall cord,
made out of them, plaited with extraordinary
ingenuity » They likewife brought fome v/ooden
models of their canoes, chequered bafkets, wrought
fo clofely as to hold water, and a confiderable
number of fmall images, of the length of four or
five inches, either of wood, or fluffed, which
were covered with a piece of fur, and embellifhed
with quill-feathers, with hair fixed on their heads.
We could not determine whether thefe were in-
tended merely as children’s toys, or were held in
veneration, as reprelenting their deceafed friends
and relations, and applied to fome fuperflitious
purpofe. They have many inftruments formed
of two or three hoops, or concentrical pieces of
wood, having a crofs-bar fixed in the middle, by
which they are held. To thefe they fix a number
of dried barnacle-fhells, with threads, which,
when fhaken, produce a loud noife, and thus
l'erve the purpofe of a rattle. This contrivance
is probably a fubftitute for the rattling- bird at
King George’s Sound.
It is uncertain with what tools their wooden
u ten fils, frames of canoes. See. are made; the onlv
one that we oblerved among them being a fort of
ftonc
iUc.
PACIFIC OCEAN. 3°9
ftone adae, fomewhat refembling thofc of Ota-
heite, and other iflands of the Pacific Ocean.
They have a great quantity of iron knives, fome
of which are rather curved, others ftraight, and
fome very fnvall ones, fixed in longifh handles,
with the blades bent upwards. They have alfo
knives of another fort, fometimes almoft two feet
in length, fhaped, in a great meafure, like a
‘ dagger, with a ridge towards the middle. They
wear thefe in lheaths of fkins, hung by a thong
round their necks, under their robe or frock. It
is probable, that they ufe them only as weapons,
and that their other knives are applied to different
purpofes. Whatever they have, is as well made
as if they were provided with a complete cheft of
tools ; and their plaiting of finews, fewing, and.
fmall work on their little bags above-mentioned,
may be faid to vie with the neateft manufactures
found in any part of the globe. Upon the
whole, confidering the uncivilized ftate of the
natives of this Sound, their northerly fituation,
amidft a country almoft continually covered with
fnow, and the comparatively wretched materials
they have to work with, it appears, that, with
refpeCt to their fkill and invention, in all manual
operations, they are at leaft equal to any other
people.
The food that we faw them eat, was the flefh
of fome animal, either roafted or broiled, and
dried fifh. Some of the former that was pur-
X 3 chafed,
3io
A VOYAGE TO THE
chafed, had the appearance of bear’s flefh. They
likewife eat a larger fort of fern-root, either baked
or dre fifed in fome other method. Some of os
obferved them eat freely of a fubftance, which we
imagined was the interior part of the pine bark.
Their drink, in all probability, is water; for, in
their canoes, they brought fnow in wooden vef-
fels, which they fwallowed by mouthfuls. Their
manner of eating is decent and cleanly, for they
conftantly took care to remove any dirt that might
adhere to their food ; and though they would
fometimes eat the raw fat of fome fea animal,
they did not fail to cut it carefully into mouth-
fuls. Their perfons were, to appearance, always
clean ; and their utenfils, in general, were kept
in excellent order, as were alfo their boats.
The language of thefe people feems difficult
to be underftood ; which is, perhaps, not owing
to any confufion or indiftin&nefs in their founds,
but to the various fignifications which their
words bear. For they appeared frequently to
make ufe of the fame word on very different oc-
cafions; though, probably, if we had had a longer
intercourfe with them, this might have proved
to be a miftake on our part. Among the very
few words of their language that Mr. Anderfon
was enabled to procure, are the following, viz.
aa, yes ; keeta^ give me fomething; tawuk , keep
it; akajhou. , what’s the name of that? namuk , an
ear-ornament ; natoonejJmk) a lea-otter’s fkin ;
4 fib leu t
pacific ocean.
3 1 1
a hleu, a fpear; yaut} I’ll go, or, Hi all I g°-
keelajhuk , guts of which they make jackets; naema,
give me fomcthing by way of exchange, or bar-
ter ; whsshnit frail I keep it ? oooYiciku, oij or be-
longing to me.
Our knowledge of the animals of this part oi
the American continent, is entirely derived from
the fkins that were brought by the natives for fale,
Thefe were principally of bears, common and
pine martins, fea-otters, feals, racoons, finall
ermines, foxes, and the w'hitiih cat or lynx.
Among thefe various flcins, the molt common
were thofe of racoons, martins, and fea-otteis,
which conftituted the ordinary drefs of thefe peo-
ple ; but the ikins of the martins, which were
in general of a far lighter brown than thofe of
Nootka, vrere greatly fuperior to them in point
offinenefs; whereas thofe of the fea-otters, which,
as well as the martins, were much more plentiful
here than at Nootka, feemed to be confiderably
inferior in the thicknefs and finenefs of their fur,
though they far exceeded them with refped to
fize ; and were, for the moll part, of the gloffy
black fort. The fkins of feals and bears were alfo
pretty common ; and the former were in general
white, beautifully lpotted with black, or fome-
times fimply white ; and many of the bears here
were of a dark brown hue.
BcTides thefe animals, there is here the white
bear, of whofe Ikins the natives brought feveral
X 4 pieces.
312 A VOYAGE TO fHE
pieces, and fome complete fkins of cubs. There
is alfo the wolverene, or quickhatch, whofe fkin
has very bright colours ; and a larger fpecies of
ermine than the common one, varied with brown,
and having fcarcely any black on its tail. The
fkin of the head of fome very large animal was
likewife brought to us, but we could not pofi-
tively decide what it was ; though, from the co-
lour and fhagginefs of the hair, and its not re-
fembling any land animal, we conjectured that it
might be that of the male urfine feal, or fea-
bear. But one of the mod beautiful fkins that
fell under our obfervation, is that of a fmall ani-
mal near a foot in length, of a brown colour on the
back, with a number of obfcure whitifh fpecks,
the fides being of a blueifli afli colour, with a
few of thefe fpecks. The tail is about a third
part of the length of the body, and is covered
with whitifh hair. This animal is doubtlefs the
fame with that which is called by Mr. Stashlin, in
his account of the New Northern Archipelago,
the fpotted field-moule. But whether it is really
of the moufe kind, or a fquirrel, we could not
determine, for want of entire fkins $ though Mr.
Anderion was inclined to imagine, that it is the
fame animal which Mr. Pennant has deferibed
under the appellation of the Cafan marmot. The
great number of fidns that we obferved here,
demondrates the abundance of the various ani-
mals \ve have mentioned j but it is fomewhat re-
markable,
PACIFIC OCEAN.
3I3
markable, that we neither met with the fkins of
the moofe, nor of the common fpecies of deer.
With refpeft to birds, we found here the hal-
cyon, or great king-fifher, which had fine bright
colours ; the fhag ; the white-headed eagle ; and
the humming-bird, which often flew about our
fhips, while we lay at anchor; though it can
icarcely be fuppofcd to live here during the win-
ter, which mud be extremely fevere. The wa-
ter-fowl feen by us were black fea-pyes, with red
bills, fuch as we met with in New-Zealand and
Van Diemen’s Land ; geefe ; a fmall fort of duck,
nearly refembling that fpecies we law at Ker-
guelen’s Land ; and another fort with which none
of us were acquainted. Some of our people who
went afhore, killed a fnipe, a groufe, and fome
plovers. But though the water-fowl were nu-
merous, particularly the geefe and ducks, they
were fo fhy that it was fcarce poflible to get
within fhot; in confequence of which, we pro-
cured a very inconfiderable fupply of them as re-
frefhment. The duck before-mentioned is about
the fize of the common wild duck, of a deep
black, with red. feet, and a fhort pointed tail.
Its bill is white, tinged towards the point with
red, and has a large black fpot, almoft fquare,
near its bafe, on each fide, where it is alfo l'ome-
what diftended. On the forehead is a large tri-
angular white fpot ; and on the hinder part of the
neck is one ftill larger. The colours of the fe-
male
A VOYAGE TO THE
P4
male are confiderably duller than thofe of the
male ; and it has none of the ornaments of the
bill, excepting the two black fpots, which are
rather obfcure.
A fpecies of diver, which feems peculiar to
this place, was obferved here. It is equal to a
partridge in fize, and has a fhort, black, com-
preflfed bill. Its head, and the upper part of its
neck, are of a brownifh black ; and the remainder
of its body is of a deep brown, obfcurely waved
with black, except the under part, which is to-
tally of a blackilh call, minutely varied with
white. We alfo found a fmall land bird, of the
finch kind, about the fize of a yellow-hammer;
but we imagined it to be one of thofe which change
their colour with the feafon, and with their dif-
ferent migrations. It was, at this time, of a
dufky brown, with a reddiih tail ; and tne fup-
pofed male had, on the crown of the head, a
large yellow fpot, with fome varied black on the
upper part of its neck ; but the latter was on the
bread of the female.
The fifh that were principally brought to us
by the natives for fale, were torik and halibut ;
and we caught fome fculpins about the fhip, with
dar-fifh of a purplifh hue, that had fixteen or
eighteen rays. The rocks were almoft deftitute
of fhell-fifh ; and the only other animal of this
tribe that was obferved by us, was a reddifh crab,
covered with very large fpines.
The
pacific ocean.
3'S
The metals feen by us were iron and copper;
bo tli which, but more particularly the former,
were in fuch abundance, as to form the points of
numbers of their lances and arrows. The ores
which they made ufe of to paint themfelves with,
were a brittle, undtuous, red ochre, or iron ore ;
a pigment of a bright blue; and black, lead.
Each of thele feemed to be very fcarce among
them.
We obferved few vegetables of any kind ; and
the trees that chiefly grew about this found, were
the Canadian and fpruce pine, fome of which
were of a confiderable fize.
Thefe people muft, doubtlefs, have received
from fome more civilized nation, the beads and
iron found among them. We were almoft cer-
tain, that we were the firft Europeans with- whom
they had ever had a diredt communication ; and
it remains only to be determined, from what
quarter they had procured our manufadhires, by
intermediate conveyance. And it is more than
probable, that they had obtained thefe articles,
through the intervention of the more inland tribes,
either from the fettlements about Hudfon’s Bay,
or thofe on the lakes of Canada ; unlefs we can
admit the fuppofition, that the Ruffians, from
Kamtfchatka, have already extended their traffic
to this diftance; or that the natives of their mod
eafterly Fox Iflands carry on an intercourfe along
. the coaft, with the inhabitants of Prince William’s
Sound, With
A voyage to the
ji6
With refpeft to copper, thefe people, perhaps,
procure it themfelves, or, at mod, it paffies to
them through few hands ; for,, when they offered
any of it by way of barter, they ufed to exprefs
its being in fufficient plenty among them, by
pointing to their weapons; as if they meant to
intimate, that, as they had fo much copper of
their own, there was no occafion for increafing
their flock.
If, however, the natives of this inlet are fur-
nifhed with European commodities by means of
the intermediate traffic to the eaflern coafl, it
is rather remarkable, that they ffiould never, in
return, have fupplied the more inland Indians
with fome of their fea-otter fkins, which would
undoubtedly have appeared, at fome time or
other, in the environs of Hudfon’s Bay. But
that does not appear to be the cafe ; and the only
method by which we can account for this, mud
be by confidering the very great diftance ; which,
though it might not prevent European articles of
commerce from coming fo far, as being fo un-
common, might hinder the fkins, which are com-
mon, from paffing through more than two or
three tribes, who might make ule of them for
their own clothing, and fend others, which they
reckoned of inferior value, as being; of their own
animals, towards the eafl, till they reach the
traders at the European fettlements.
C H A P,
pacific ocean.
3*7
CHAP. VI.
Proceed along tbs Coajl — Cape Elizabeth — Caps
St. Hermogenes — Peering s Voyage and Chart
very defective — Point Batiks — Barren JJles — Cape
Douglas— Cape Bede — Mount St.Auguftin — En-
deavour to find a Pajfiage up an Inlet — Both Ships
make a Progrefs up it — Convincing Proofs of its
being a River — A Branch of it called River
Eurnagain — Ehe great River named Cook’s River
■ — Ehe Ships return — Several Vifits from the Na-
tives— Lieutenant King lands , difplays a Flag ,
and takes Poffefiion of the Country — His Reception
by the Natives — Ehe Refolution Jirikes upon a
Bank — Ehe high Tides accounted for.
EAVING Prince William’s Sound, on
Wednefday the 20th of May, we fleered to
the fouth-wefl, with a gentle breeze ; which was
fucceeded by a calm at four o’clock the next
morning, and that calm was ibon after followed
by a breeze from fouth-wefl. We continued to
flretch to the fouth-wefl, and pafTed a lofty pro-
montory, in the latitude of 590 ic/, and the lon-
gitude of 207° 45k It having been difcovered
on Princefs Elizabeth’s birth-day. Captain Cook
gave it the name of Cape Elizabeth. As we coulcl
fee no land beyond it, we flattered ourfelves that
it was the weflern extremity of the continent ;
2
but
3i8
A VOY-AGi to T fit
but we were foon convinced that we were mis-
taken, frelh land appearing in light, bearing weft: -
fbuth-weft. The wind had* now increafed to
a ftrong gale, and forced us to a confidcrable dis-
tance fiom the coaft. On the 2 ad, in the after-
noon, the gale abated, and we Hood for Cape
Elizabeth ; which, about noon the next day, bore
weft, diftant ten leagues. New land was then
feen, bearing fouth-weft, which, it was imagined,
connefted Cape Elizabeth with the land we had
feen towards the weft.
We ftood to the Southward till the next day at
noon, at which time we were about three leagues
from the coaft, which we had Seen on the zadk
In this Situation, it formed a point, that bore
Weft-north-weft. More land was discovered, ex^
tending to the Southward ; on which was Seen a
ridg-e of mountains, with Summits covered with
Snow, behind the firft land, which we fuppofcd
to be an idand, there appearing on it but an in-
confiderable quantity of Snow. The latitude of
this point of land is 58° 15', and its longitude
207° 42'. And, by what the Commodore could
gather from Beering’s Voyage and Chart, he fup-
oofed it to be what he called Cape St. Hermo-
genes. But the account of that voyage, as well
as the chart, is So extremely inaccurate, that it is
almoft impoftible to difcover any one place, which
that navigator either Saw or touched at. The
Commodore, indeed, was by no means certain,
that
FACIFIC OCEAN, 3*9
that the bay which he had named after Beering,
was the place where he had anchored.
In the chart above-mentioned, a fpace is here
pointed out, where Beering is fuppofed to have
feen no land. This favoured Mr. Stashlin’s ac-
count, who makes Cape St. Hermogenes, and
the land difcovered by Beering to the fouth-weft
of it, to be a duller of illands ; and that St. Her-
moo-enes is one of thofe which are deftitute of
wood. This appeared to be confirmed by what
we now faw ; and we entertained the pleafing
hopes of finding here a pafiage northward, with-
out being under the neceflity of proceeding any
farther to die fouth-weft.
By variable light airs and calms, we were de-
tained off the Cape till two o’clock in the morn-
ing of the 25th, when a breeze fpringing up, we
fleered along the coaft, and perceived that the
land of Cape St. Plermogenes was an ifland, about
fix leagues in circumference, feparated from the
coaft by a channel of about one league in breadth.
Some rocks lie above water, a league and a half
to the north of this ifland ; and on the north-eaft
fide of the rocks, we had from thirty to twenty
fathoms water.
About noon, St. Hermogenes bore fouth-eaft,
diftant eight leagues; the land to the north-weft
extending from fouth half weft to near weft. In
the laft diredlion, it ended in a low point, named
Point Banks. The fliip was, at this time, in
the
3
320 A VOYAGE TO THE
the latitude of 58° 41', and in the longitude of
207° 44'. In this fituation, the land was in fight,
bearing north-weft, which, it was imagined, con-
nected Cape Elizabeth with this fouth-weft land.
When we approached it, we faw it was a groupe
of high iflands and rocks, and confequently un-
connected with any other land. From the naked-
nefs of their appearance, they were denominated
the Barren IJles : they are fituated in the latitude
of 590, three leagues diftant from Cape Elizabeth,
and five from Point Banks.
We intended to have pafTed through one of the
channels by which thefe iflands are divided ; but,
a flrong current fetting againfl us, we went to
the leeward of them all. The weather, which
had been thick and hazy, cleared up towards the
evening, and we perceived a very lofty promon-
tory, whofe elevated fummit appeared above the
clouds, forming two exceedingly high mountains.
The Commodore named this promontory Cape
Douglas, in honour of his friend Dr. Douglas,
canon of Windfor. Its latitude is 58° 56', and
its longitude 206° io' ; twelve leagues from Point
Banks, and ten to the weflward of the Barren
Ifles.
The coaft feemed to form a large deep bay,
between this point and Cape Douglas which,
from our obferving fome fmoke upon Point Banks,
received the name of Smokey Bay. On the 26th,
at day- break, being to the northward of the Bar-
V
PACIFIC OCEAN; j2I
ren Ifles, we perceived more land, extending
from Cape Douglas to the north. It confided of
a chain of very high mountains ; one of which,
being much more confpicuous than the reft, ob-
tained the name of Mount St. Augufiin.
We were not difcouraged at perceiving this
land, fuppofing it to be wholly unconnected with
the land of Cape Elizabeth. We alfo expeCted
to find a paftage to the north-weft, between Cape
Douglas and Mount St. Auguftin. It was, in-
deed, imagined, that the land to the north of
Cape Douglas, confided of a groupe of iflands,
feparated by fo many channels, any of which we
might have chofen, according to the direction of
the wind.
Flattered with thefe ideas, and having a frefti
aale at north-north-eaft, we flood to the north-
weft, till eight o’clock, when we were fully con-
vinced, that what we had iuppofed to be iflands,
were fummits of mountains, connected by the!
lower land, which we could not perceive at a
Greater diftance, on account of the hazinefs of
the horizon. This land was covered wholly with
fnow, from the tops of the mountains down to
the lea-beach ; and had, in every other refpeCt,
the appearance of a great continent* Captain
Cook was now fully convinced, that he Ihould
difeover no paftage by this inlet ; and his perfe-
vering in the fearch of it, was more to fatisfy
others, than to confirm his own opinion.
VoL.II. N° I 2, Y
Mount
$22 A VOYAGE TO THE
Mount St. Auguftin, at this time, bore north-
weft, about three leagues diftant. It is of vaft
height, and of a conical figure ; but whether it
be an ifiand, or part of the continent, is not yet
alcertained. Perceiving that nothing was to be
done to the weft, we ftood over to Cape Eliza-
beth, under which we fetched at about five in the
afternoon.
Between Cape Elizabeth and a lofty promon-
tory, named Cape Bede*, is a bay, in which there
appeared to be two fnug harbours. We ftood
into this bay, and might have anchored there in
twenty-three fathoms water i but, the Commo-
dore having no fuch intention, we tacked, and
ftood to the weftward, with a very ftrong gale,
accompanied with rain and hazy weather. The
gale abated the next morning, and about three
o’clock in the afternoon, the weather cleared up ;
Cape Douglas bearing fouth-weft by weft, and
the depth of water being forty fathoms, over a
rocky bottom.
The coaft from Cape Bede, trended north-eaft
by eaft, with a chain of mountains inland, in the
fame diredtion. On the coaft, the land was woody,
and there appeared to be fome commodious har-
bours. We had the mortification, however, to
difcover low land in the middle of the inlet, ex-
* This name, and that of Mount St. Auguflin, were di-
rected by our calendar.
tending
PACIFIC OCEAN.
323
tending from north-north-eafl, to north-eaft by
eaft ; but, as it was fuppofed to be an ifland, we
were not much difcouraged. About this time
we fleered, with a light breeze, to the weftward
of this low land ; as, in that diredtion, there was
no appearance of obftrudtion. Our foundings
were from thirty to twenty-five fathoms.
In the morning of the 28th, having but little
wind, the fhip drove to the fouthward ; and, in
order to flop her, we dropped a hedge-anchor,
with an eight inch haufer. But, in bringing the
fhip up, we loft both that and the anchor. We
brought the fhip up, however, with one of the
bowers, and fpent a confiderable part of the day
in fweeping for them, but without effedt. We
were now in the latitude of 5 90 5 1 ' 5 the low-land
extended from north-eaft to fouth-eaft, the neareft
part diftant about two leagues. The land on the
weftern fhore was diftant about feven leagues. A
ftrong tide fet to the fouthward, out of the inlet *
it was the ebb, and ran almoft four knots in an
hour. At ten o’clock it was low-water. Great
quantities of fea-weed, and fome drift-wood, were
taken out with the tide. Though the water had
become thick, and refembled that in rivers, we
were encouraged to proceed, by finding it as fait
as the ocean, even at low water. Three knots
was the ftrength of the flood tide i and the dream
continued to run up till four in the afternoon.
Y 2 Having
324
A VOYAGE TO THE
Having a calm the whole day, wfc moved with
a light breeze at eaft, at eight o’clock in the
evening, and flood to the north, tip the inlet.
The wind, foon after, veered to the north, in-
creafed to a frefli gale, and blew in fqualls, with
fome rain. But this did not hinder us from ply-
ing up while the flood continued, which was till
the next morning, at near five o’clock. We had
from thirty-five to twenty-four fathoms water.
We anchored about two leagues from the eaftern
fhore, where our latitude was 6o° 8* ; fome low
land, which we fuppofed to be an ifiand, lying
under the weftern fhore, diftant between threa
and four leagues.
The weather having now become fair and clear,
we could fee any land within our horizon ; when
nothing was vitible to obftrudt our progrefs in a
north-eaft dire&ion. But a ridge of mountains
appeared on each fide, rifing behind each other,
without any feparation. Captain Cook fuppofed
it to be low water about ten o’clock, but the ebb
ran down till almoft twelve. Two columns of
frnoke were now vifible on the eaftern ftiore ; a
certain fign that inhabitants were near. We
weighed at one in the afternoon, and plied up
under double reefed topfails, having a ftrong gale
at north-eaft.
We ftretched over to the weftern fhore, intend-
ing to have taken flicker till the gale fliould ceafe*
but falling fuddenly from forty fathoms water
into
PACIFIC OCEAN. 3 2 5
into twelve, and feeing the appearance of a fhoal,
we ftretc’ned back to the eaftward, and anchored
in nineteen fathoms water, under the eaftern fhore;
the north-weft part of which, ended in a bluff
point.
On the 30th of May, about two o’clock in the
morning, we weighed anchor again, the gale hav-
ing much abated, but ftill continuing contrary.
We plied up till near feven, and then anchored
in nineteen fathoms water, under the fhore to
the eaftward.
Two canoes, with a man in each, came off to
the fhip about noon, nearly from that part where
we had feen the fmoke the day before. It coft
them fome labour to paddle acrofs the ftrong tide;
and they hefitated a little, before they dared ven-
ture to approach us. One of them was very lo-
quacious, but to no purpofe, for we could not
underftand a fvilable he faid : while he was talk-
ing, he kept pointing continually to the fhore,
which we fuppoled to be an invitation for us to
go thither. Captain Cook made them a prefent
of a few trifles, which he conveyed to them from
the quarter gallery.
Thefe people ftrongly refembled thofe we had
feen in Prince William’s Sound, both in drefs
and perfon : their canoes were alfo conftrucfted in
the fame manner. One of our vifittrs feemed to
have no beard, and his face was painted of a jet
black ; the other, who was older, was not paint-
Y 3 ed.
3^6 A VOYAGE TO THE
ed, but he had a large beard, and a countenance
like the common fort of the people in the Sound.
Smoke was this day feen upon the flat weftern
fhore; whence we inferred, that thefe lower fpots
only are inhaoited.
As we weighed when the flood made, the canoes
quitted us. We flood over to the weftern fhore,
with a frefli gale, and fetched under the point
above-mentioned. This, with the point on the
oppofite fhore, contracted the breadth of the
channel to about four leagues, through which ran
a prodigious tide. It had a terrible appearance,
as we were ignorant whether the water was thus
agitated by the ftream, or by the dafhing of the
waves againft fands or rocks. Meeting with no
fhoal, we concluded it to be the former, but we
afterwards found ourfelves miftaken.
We kept the weftern fhore aboard, that appear-
ing to be the fafeft. We had a depth of thirteen
fathoms near the fhore, and, two or three miles
off, upwards of forty. In the evening, about
eight o’clock, we anchored under a point of land,
bearing north-eaft, diftant about three leagues,
and lay there during the ebb.
Till we arrived here, the water retained an
equal degree of faltnefs, both at high and low
water, and was as fitlt as that which is in the
ocean ; but now the marks of a river evidently
difplayed themfelves. The water, which was
taken up at this ebb, >vas much freflicr than any
tye
PACIFIC OCEAN. 327
we had tailed ; whence we concluded that we
were in a large river, and not in a ftrait which
had a communication with the northern feas.
But, having proceeded thus far, we were anxious
to have ftronger proofs ; and, therefore, in the
morning of the 31ft we weighed with the flood,
and drove up with the tide, having but little
wind.
We were attended, about eight o’clock, by
many of the natives, in one large canoe, and
feveral fmall ones. The latter had only one per-
fon on board each } and fome of the paddles had
a blade at each end, like thofe of the Eiquimaux.
Men, women, and children, were contained in
the large canoes. At fome diftance from the
fliip, they exhibited, on a long pole, a kind of
leathern frock, which we interpretea to be a flgn
of their peaceable intencions. They conveyed
this frock into the fhip, as an acknowledgment
for fome trifles which the Commodore had given
them.
No difference appeared either in the perfons,
drefs, or canoes of chefe people, and the natives
of Prince William’s Sound, except that the fmall
canoes were not fo large as thofe of the Sound,
and carried only one man.
We bartered with them for fome of their fur
drelfes, made of the fkins of animals j particular-
ly thofe of fea-otters, martins, and hares : we alfo
fad a few of their darts, and a fupply of falmon
y 4 and
A VOVACE TO THE
and halibut. We gave them, in exchange for
t ide, fome old clothes, beads, and pieces of
iron.
They were already pofleffed of large iron
mves, and glafs beads of alky-blue colour, fuch
as we faw among the inhabitants of Prince Wil-
liam's Sound. The latter, as well as thofe which
they received of us, they feemed to value highly.
But they were particularly earnell in alking for
laige pieces of iron, to which they gave the name
of goone-, though with them, as well as with their
neighbours in the Sound, one word feemed to
have many bonifications. Their language is
ccitainly the fame; the words oonaka , keeta , and
natma , and a few others which were frequently
ufed in Prince William’s Sound, were alfo com-
monly ufed by this new tribe. After palling a-
bou't. two hours between the two drips, they re-
tired to the weftern diore.
We anchored at nine o’clock, in fixteen fa-
thoms water, and alrnolt two leagues from the
weftein fhore, the ebb being already begun. It
ran but three knots an hour at its greatell ftrength ;
ana fell, after we had anchored, twenty-one feet
upon a perpendicular. The weather was alter-
nately clear and mifty, with drizzling rain. When
it was clear, we perceived low land between the
mountains on the eaftern fhore, bearing eaft from
the datjon of the fhips, which we concluded to
be iflands between us and the main land. We
alfo
PACIFIC OCEAN.
3-9
alio beheld low land to the northward, which
appeared to extend from the mountains on one
fide, to thofe on the other; and, at low water,
large ilioals were feen, fire telling out from this
low land, from fome of which we were not far
diftant. We doubted, from thefe appearances,
whether the inlet did not take an eafteily direction
through the above opening; or whether that
opening was only a branch of it, the main chan-
nel continuing its northern direction. The chain
of mountains, on each fide of it, ftrongly counte-
nanced the latter fuppofition.
To be fatished of thefe particulars, Captain
Cook difpatched two boats ; and, when the flood-
tide made, followed with the two fhips : but it
being a dead calm, and having a llrong tide, we
anchored, after driving about ten miles. At the
lowcfl: of the ebb, the water at and near the fur-
face was perfectly frefh ; though retaining a con-
fiderable degree of faltnefs, if taken above a foot
below it. We had this and many other con-
vincing proofs of its being a river : fuch as thick
muddy water, low fhores, trees, and rubbifh of
various kinds, floating backwards and forwards
with the tide. In the afternoon we received ano-
ther vifit from the natives, in feveral canoes, who
trafficked confiderably with our people, without
fo much as attempting any diflioneft adtion.
At two o’clock in the morning of the firfb of
June, the mailer, who commanded the two boats,
returned.
33® A voyage to the
returned., informing us that he found the inlet,
or liver, contracted to one league in breadth,
and that it took a northerly courfe through low
land on each fide. He advanced about three
leagues through this narrow part, which he found
from twenty to feventeen fathoms deep. While
the dream ran down, the water was perfectly
fiefh; but it became brackifh when it ran up,
and very much fo towards high water.
He went afhore upon an ifiand, between this
branch and that to the eafl, and faw fome cur-
rant bufhes ; and fame other fruit trees and
bufhes that weie unknown to him. About three
leagues to the northward of this fearch, he faw
another reparation in the cafcern chain of moun-
tains, through which he fuppoled it probable tbs
river took a north eaft direction; but this, per-
haps, was only another branch, and the main
channel continued in a northern direction be-
tween the two chains of mountains.
The hopes of finding a paffage were no longer
entertained ; but as the ebb was fpent, and we
were unable to return againft the tide, we took
the advantage of the latter, to get a clofer view
of the eaftern branch ; in order to determine
whether the low land, on the eatt, was an ifiand,
or not. For this purp'ofe we weighed with the
firfb of the flood, and itood over for the eaftem
fhore. At eight o’clock a breeze fprung up in an
oppofite dire&ion to our courfe, fo that we de-
fpaired
PACIFIC OCEAN. 3£t
fpaired of reaching the entrance of the river.
The Commodore, therefore, difpatched two boats,
under the command of Lieutenant King, to make
fuch obfervations as might enable us to form
fome tolerable idea of the nature of the river.
We anchored, about ten o’clock, in nine fa-
thoms water. The Commodore, obferving the
flrength of the tide to be fo great, that the boats
could not make head againft it, made a fignal
for them to return before they had proceeded half
way to the entrance of the river. The chief
knowledge obtained by this tide’s work, was,
that all the low land, which we imagined to be
an illand, was one continued trait from the great
river to the foot of the mountains, terminating at
the fouth entrance of this eaftern branch, which
the Commodore denominated the river Turn-
again. The low land begins again on the north
fide of this river, and extends from the foot of
the mountains, to the banks of the great river j
forming, before the river Turnagain, a large
bay, having from twelve to five fathoms water.
After entering the bay, the flood fet very ftrong
into the river Turnagain, and the ebb came out
ft ill ftronger, the water falling twenty feet upon
a perpendicular. From thefe circumftances, it
plainly appeared, that a paflage was not to be
expeited by this fide river, any more than by the
main branch. But, as the water at ebb, though
much frefher, retained a confiderable degree of
fql tn efs.
A VOYAGE TO THE
faltnefs, it is probable that both thefe branches
are navigable by Ihips much farther; and that a
very extenfive inland communication lies open,
by means of this river and its feveral branches.
We had traced it to the latitude of 6i° 30', and
the longitude of 210% which is upwards of
feventy leagues from its entrance, and faw no
appearance of its fource.
The time we fpent in the difcovery of this
great river * ought not to be regretted, if it
Ihould hereafter prove ufeful to the prefent, or
any future age. But the delay, thus occafioned,
was an efTential lofs to us, who had an objedt of
greater magnitude in view. The feafon was far
advanced ; and it was now evident that the conti-
nent of North America extended much farther to
the weft, than we had reafon to expedt from the
moft approved charts. The Commodore, how-
ever, had the fatisfadtion to refledt, that, if he
had not examined this very large river, fpecula-
tive fabricators of geography would have ventur-
ed to alTert, that it had a communication with the
fea to the north, or with Hudfon’s or Baffin’s bay
to the eaft ; and it would probably have been
marked, on future maps of the world, with as
much appearance of precilion, as the imaginary
ftraits of de Fuca, and de Fonte.
* Captain Cook having here left a blank. Lord Sand-
wich very judiciouily directed it to be called Cook's River.
Mr.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
333
Mr. King was again fent, in the afternoon,
with two armed boats, with orders from Captain
Cook to land on the fouth-eaft fide of the river,
where he was to difplay the flag ; and, in his
Majefty’s name, to take pofleflion of the country
and the river. He was alfo ordered to bury a
bottle in the earth, containing fome Englilh coin
of 1772, and a paper, whereon were written the
names of our fhips, and the date of our difcovery.
The fhips, in the mean time, were got under fail.
The wind blew frefh eafterly, but we had not
been long under way before a calm enfued ; and
the flood tide meeting us, we found it neceflary
to anchor in fix fathoms water; the point where
Mr. King landed bearing fouth, at the diftance
of two miles. This point of land was named
Point Pojfejfion.
On Mr. King’s return, he informed the Com-
modore, that when he approached the fhore, he
faw eighteen or twenty of the natives with their
arms extended ; an attitude, he fuppofed, meant
to fignify their peaceable difpofition, and to con-
vince him that they were without weapons. See-
ing Mr. King and his attendants land, and ob-
ferving mufquets in their hands, they were a-
larmed, and requefted (by exprefiive figns) that
they would lay them down. This was im-
mediately complied with, and then Mr. King and
his party were permitted to walk up to them,
when
334 a voyage to the
when they appeared to be very fociable and \
chearful.
They had with them feveral dogs, and a few
pieces of frefh falmon. Mr. Law, Surgeon of
the Diicovery, happening to be of the party, pur-
chafed one of the dogs, and, taking it towards
the boat, immediately Ihot it dead. At this
they feemed exceedingly furprized ; and, not
thinking themfelves fafe in fuch company, they
walked away; but it prefently appeared, that they
had concealed their fpears and other weapons in
the bufhes clofe behind them. Mr. Kino- in-
O
formed us, that the ground was fwampy, and the
foil poor and light. It, however, produced fome
pines, alders, birch, and willows ; fome rofe and
currant bullies, and a little grafs; but there was
not a plant in flower to be feen.
When it was high water we weighed anchor,
and, with a faint breeze, ftood over to the weft
Iliore, where we anchored early the next morn-
ing, on account of the return of the flood. Pre-
fently after we were vifited by feveral of the
natives, in canoes, who bartered their fkins, and
afterwards parted with their garments, many of
them returning perfectly naked. Among others,
they brought a great quantity of the lkins of
white rabbits and red foxes, but only two or
three of thofe of otters. We alfo purchafed fome
pieces of halibut and falmon. They gave iron
the preference to every thing we offered them in
• exchange.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
335
exchange. The lip-ornaments were leis in fafhion
amono- them than at Prince William’s Sound;
o
but thole which pals through the nofe were more
frequent, and, in general, confiderably longer.
They had, likewife, more embroidered work on
their garments, quivers, knife-cafes, and many
other articles.
We weighed at half pall: ten, and plied down
the river with a gentle breeze at fouth ; when, by
the inattention of the man at the lead, the Re-
folution Struck, and ftuck upon a bank, nearly
in the middle of the river. It is pretty certain
that this bank oCcafioned that ftrong agitation of
the Stream, with which we were fo much fur-
prized when turning up the river. We had
twelve feet depth of water about the fhip, at the
lowed: of the ebb, but the bank was dry in other
parts.
When the Refolution came aground. Captain
Cook made a fignal for the Difcovery to anchor.
We were afterwards informed, that fhe had been
almolt afhore on the weft fide of the bank. About
five o’clock in the afternoon, ' as the flood tide
came in, the fhip floated oft* without fuftaining
any damage, or occasioning the leaft trouble.
We then flood over to the weft fhore, where we
anchored, in deep water, to wait for the ebb, the
wind being ftill unfavourable to us.
At ten o’clock at night we weighed with the
ebb; and, about five the next morning, (the 3d
1 of
33 6
A voyage to the
of June) the tide being finifhed, we caft anchor
on the weft /bore, about two miles below the
bluff point. When we were in this ftation we
were vifited by many of the natives, who attend-
ed us all the morning ; and, indeed, their com-
pany was highly acceptable to us, as they brought
with them a quantity of fine falmon, which they
exchanged for fome of our trifles. Several hun-
dred weight of it was procured for the two fhips,
and the greateft part of it was fplit, and ready for
drying.
The mountains now, for the firft time after
our entering the river, were free from clouds,
and we perceived a volcano in one of thofe on
the weftern fide. Its latitude is 6 o° 23' and it
is the firft high mountain north of Mount St.
Auguftin. The volcano is near the fummit,
and on that part of the mountain next the river.
It emits a white fmoke, but no fire. The wind
' continuing foutherly, we ftill tided it down the
river; and, on the morning of the 5th, arriving
at the place where we had loft our kedge an-
chor, we attempted, though unfuccefsfully, to
recover it.
Before our departure from this place, we were
again vifited by fome of the natives, in fix canoes,
from the eaftern fhore. For half an hour they
remained at a fmall diftance from the fhips, gaz-
ing at them with a kind of filent furprize, without
uttering a Fy liable to us, or to each other. Ac
3 length
PACIFIC OCEAN.
337
length they grew courageous, came along-fide,
and began to barter with us ; nor did they leave
us till they had parted with their fkins and fal-
mon, which were the only articles they had
brought to traffic with.
It may not be unneceffary to remark, that all
the people we had feen in this river, had a fink-
ing refemblance, in every particular, to thofe
who inhabit Prince William’s Sound, but differ-
ed moll effentially from thofe of Nootka, as well
in their perfons as their language.
The points of their fpears and knives are made
of iron; fome of the former, indeed, are made of
copper. Their fpears refemble our fpontoons;
and their knives, for which they have fheaths,
are of a confiderable length. Except thefe, and
a few glafs beads, every thing we law amongft
them was of their own manufacture. We have
already hazarded conjectures from whence they
derive their foreign articles. It cannot be fup-
pofed, however, that the Ruffians have been a-
mongft them, for we fhould not then have feen
them cloathed in fuch valuable fkins as thofe of
the fea-otter.
A very beneficial fur trade might certainly be
carried on with the natives of this vaft coaft ;
but, without a northern paffage, it is too re-
mote for Great-Britain to be benefited by fuch
commerce. It fhould, however, be oblerved,
that almoft the only valuable; fkins, on this weft
Vo l » II . — n° 1 2. Z fide
a voyage to the
fide of North America, are thofe of the fea-otter.
Their other fkins were of an inferior quality j and
it fhould be farther obferved, that the greater
part of the fkins, which we purchafed of them,
were made up into garments. Some of them,
indeed, were in pretty good condition, others
old and ragged, and all of them extremely loufy.
But, as fkins are ufed by thefe people only for
cloathing themfelves, they, perhaps, are not at
the trouble of drefling more of them than they
require for this purpofe. This is probably the
chief caufe of their killing the animals, for they
principally receive their fupply of food from the
lea and rivers. But if they were once habituated
to a conftant trade with foreigners, fuch an in-
tercourfe would increafe their wants, by acquaint-
ing them with new luxuries ; to be enabled to
purchafe which, they would become more aflldu-
ous in procuring fkins j a plentiful fupply of
which might doubtlefs be obtained in this
country.
The tide is very confiderable in this river, and
greatly aflifts to facilitate the navigation of it.
In the ftrearo, it is high water between two and
three o’clock, on the days of the new and full
moon and the tide rifes between three and four
fathoms. The mouth of the river being in a
corner of the coafl:, the ocean forces the flood
into it by both fhores, which fwells the tide to a
greater height than at other parts of this coafl:.
CHAP.
PACIFIC OCEAN.
3W
CHAP. VII.
Departure from Cook's River— Pa/s St. Hermogenes
— Cape TVhitfunday — Whitfuntide Bay — Cape
Greville • — Cape Barnabas — 'Two-headed Point-
Trinity Ifland— Beering s Foggy If and— Foggy
Cape — Pinnacle Point — Dejcription of a curious
Bird— Account of the S chum agin If and s — A Ruf-
fian Letter brought on board the Difcovery — »
Various Conjectures concerning it — Rock Point —
Halibut If and — Halibut Head— A Volcano —
Efcape providentially — Arrival at Qonalaffika —
Traffic with the Natives there — Another Ruffian
Letter brought on board — Defer iption of the Har-
bour of Samganoodh a.
TH E ebb tide making in our favour, we
weighed, and, with a gentle breeze at
fouth-weft, plied down the river. The flood,
however, obliged us to anchor again j but, about
one o'clock the next morning, we got under fail
with a frefh breeze, pafied the barren iflands a-
bout eight, and at noon Cape St. Plermogenes
bore fouth-fouth-eafl, about eight leagues diftant.
We intended to go through the paflfage between
the ifland of that name and the main land; but
the wind foon after failed us, and we had baffling
airs from the eaftward ; we, therefore, abandon-
Z 2 ed
A VOYAGE TO THE
34°
cd the defign of carrying our fh ip through that
p afiage.
We now beheld feveral columns of fmoke on
the continent, northward of the pafiage; which
vue probably meant as fignals to attradl us thi-
thei . I he land foims a bay here, a low rocky
ifland lying oft the north-weft point of it. Some
other iflands, of a fimilar appearance, are fcatter-
ed along the coaft between here and Point Banks.
About eight in the evening, St. Hermogenes
extended from fouth half eaft to fouth-fouth-eaft ;
and the rocks bore fouth-eaft, diftant three miles.
Here we had forty fathoms water, and catched
feveral halibut with hooks and lines. We palled
the locks, and bore up to the fouthward about
midnight i and, on the 7th, at noon, St. Her-
mogenes bore north, at the diftance of four
leagues. The fouthernmoft point of the main
land lay north half weft, five leagues diftant.
The latitude of this promontory is 58° 15', and
its longitude 207° 24k It was named, after the
day, Cape Whitjunday ; and a large bay, to the
weft of it, was called Whitjuntide Bay.
The wind, which had been at north-eaft, ftfift-
ed to the fouthward about two in the afternoon.
The weather was gloomy, and the air cold. At
midnight we flood in for the land, and at feven
o’clock in the morning of the 8th, we were
within four miles of it, and lefs than two miles
from fome funken rocks, bearing weft-fouth-weft.
Here
PACIFIC OCEAN.
3 41
Here we anchored in thirty-five fathoms water.
In (landing in for the coaft, we pafled the mouth
of Whitfuntide Bay, and perceived land all round
the bottom of it; therefore the land mu ft either
be connected, or the points lock in behind each
other: the former conjedlure appears to be the
moft probable. There are fome finall iflands to
the weft of the bay. To the fouthward the fea
coaft is low, with projedting rocky points, having
fmall inlets between them. Upon the coaft there
was no wood, and but little fnow; but the
mountains, at fome diftance inland, were entire - 7
ly covered with fnow. We were now in the
latitude of 570 521'. The land here forming a
point, it was named Cape Greville. Its latitude
is 57° 33 '> anc^ its longitude 20 y° 15b It is fif-
teen leagues diftant from St. Hermogenes.
The 9th, 10th, arid nth, we had conftant
mifty weather, with fome rain, and feldom had a
fight of the coaft; we had a gentle breeze of
wind, and the air was raw and cold. We con-
tinued plying up the coaft.
In the evening of the 12th, the fog clearing
up, we law the land about twelve leagues diftant,
bearing weft ; and we Itood in for it early the
next morning. At noon we were within three
miles of it; an elevated point, which was named
Cape Barnabas, in the latitude of 570 13/, bbre
north-north-eaft, at the diftance of about ten
miles. We could not fee the north-eaft extreme
Z 3 for
34- A VOYAGE TO THE
for the haze, but the point to the fouth-weft had
an elevated fummit, which terminated in two
round hills, and was therefore called Two-headed
Point. This part of the coaft is principally com-
poled of high hills, and deep vallies. We could
fo me tynes perceive the tops of other hills, beyond
thofe which form the coaft, which had a very
barren appearance, though not much incumbered
with fnow. Not a tree or bufh was to be found,
and the land, in general, had a brownilh hue.
We continued to ply, and, at about fix in the
evening, being about midway between Cape Bar-
nabas and Two-headed Point, two leagues from
the fhore, we had fixty :two fathoms water. Here
a low point of land was obferved, bearing fouth
69° weft. On the 14th, at noon, we were in the
latitude 56° 49'. The land feen the preceding
evening now appeared like two illands. We were
up with the fouthernmoft part of this land the
next morning, and perceived it to be an illand,
which obtained the name of Trinity IJland. Its
greateft extent, in the diredlion of eaft and weft,
is about fix leagues. It has naked elevated land
at each end, and is low towards the middle. Its
latitude is 56° 36', and its longitude 205°. It is
diftant about three leagues from the continent,
between which locks and illands are interfperfed.
There feems, neverthelefs, to be good palftge,
and fafe anchorage. We, at Hi ft, imagined that
this
pacific ocean.
343
this was Beering’s Foggy IJland ; but its fituation
is not agreeable to his chart.
In the evening, at eight, we were within a
league of the fmall iflands above-mentioned. The
wefternmofl point of the continent, now in view,
we called Cape Trinity , it being a low point facing
Trinity Ifland. In this fituation, we flood over
for the ifland, meaning to work up between that
and the main. In Handing over towards the
Uland, we met two men in a canoe, paddling
from thence to the main : inftead of approaching
ns, they feemed carefully to avoid it.
The wind now inclining to the fouth, we ex-
pected it would prefently be at.fouth-eaft j know-
ing, from experience, that a fouth-eafterly wind
was here generally accompanied with a thick fog,
we were afraid to venture between the ifland and
the continent, left we fhould not be able to ac-
complish our paflage before night, or before the
foggy weather came on ; when we fhould be un-
der the neceflity of anchoring, and lofe the ad-
vantage of a fair wind. Induced by thefe reafons,
we flretched out to fea, and pafied two or three
rocky iflets, near the eafl end of Trinity Ifland.
Having weathered the ifland, we tacked about
four in the afternoon, and fleered weft foutherly,
with a gale at fouth-fouth-eaft ; which veered to
the fouth-eafl about midnight, and was attended
with mifty rainy weather.
Z4
We
344
A VOYAGE TO THE
We expected, from the courfe we fteered during
the night, to fall in with the continent in the
morning ; and we Ihould, doubtlefs, have feen it,
if the weather had been clear. No land appear-
ing at noon, and the gale and fog increafing, we
fteered weft-north-weft, under fuch fail as we
could haul tne wind with ; fenfible of the danger
_ O
of running before a ftrong gale, in the vicinity of
an unknown coaft, and in a thick fog. It was,
however, become necdfary to run fome rifk, when
the wind was favourable to us ; as we were con-
vinced, that clear weather was generally accom-
panied with wefterly winds.
About three in the afternoon, land was per-
ceived through the fog, bearing north-weft, about
three miles diftant, We inftantly hauled up
fouth, clofe to the wind. The two courfes were
foon after fplit, and we had others to bring to
the yards : feveral of our fails received ccnfider-
able damage. I he gale abated, and the weather
cleared up about nine 3 when we again faw the
coaft, about the diftance of five leagues. Our
depth was a hundred fathoms water,
The fog returned foon after, and was dil 'per fed
about four o’clock the next morning; when we
found ourfelves, in fome degree, furrounded by
land; the continent, or th^t which we fuppoled
to be the continent, fome elevated land, bearing
fouth-eaft, about nine leagues diftant. The ex-
treme of the main, at the north-eaft, was the
pacific ocean.
345
point ofland feen during the fog: it was named
Foggy Cafe, and lies in the latitude of 56° 31'.
Having had but little wind all night, a breeze
now fprung up at north-weft; we ftood to the
fouthward with this, in order to make the land
plainer, that was feen in that direction. About
nine o’clock, we difcovered it to be an lfland,
nine miles in circumference, in the latitude of
36“ io', and the longitude of 202 45/* our
chart, it is named Foggy IJland ; it being reafon-
able to fuppofe, from its lituation, that it is the
ifland on which Beering had bellowed the lame
appellation. Three or four iflands bore north
by weft j a point, with pinnacle rocks upon it,
bore north-weft by weftj called Pinnacle Point ;
and a duller of iftets fouth-fouth-eaft, about nine
leagues from the coaft. In the afternoon we had
very little wind, and our progrefs was inconfider-
able.
On Wednefday the 17th, we had gentle breezes
between weft and north-weft; the weather was
perfectly clear, and the air dry and lharp. The
continent, about noon, extended from fouth-
weft to north by eaft ; the neareft part about feven
or eight leagues diftant ; a group of iflands lying
to the fouth-weft, about the lame diftance from
the continent.
«
The weather was clear and pleafanton the 18th,
and it was calm the greateft part of the day.
There is, probably, a continuation of the conti-
nent
346
A VOYAGE TO THE
Pent between Foggy Cape and Trinity Ifland,
which the thick weather hindered us from per-
ceiving. 1
The Commodore having occafion to fend a-
boat to the Difcovery, one of the people a-board
her, fhot a moft beautiful bird. It is fmaller
than a duck, and the colour is black, except that
the fore-part of the head is white ; behind each
eye, an elegant yellowifh-white creft arifes ; the
bill and feet are of a reddilh colour. The firft we
law of thefe birds was to the fouthward of Cape
St. Hermogenes ; after which we faw them daily,
and frequently in large flocks. We often faw
moft of the otner fea-birds, that are ufually met
with in the northern oceans ; fuch as fhags, gulls,
puffins, fheer-waters, ducks, geefe, and fwans-
and we feldom paffed a day, without feeing
whales, feals, and other fifh of great magnitude.
'Vv e got a light breeze, foutherly, in the after-
noon, and fteered weft, for the channel between
the i (lands and the continent. At day-break the
next morning, we were not far from it, and per-
ceived ieveral other iflands, within thofe that we
had already feen, of various dimenfions. But,
between thefe iflands, and thofe we had feen be-
fore, there appeared to be a clear channel, for
which we fleered; and, at noon, our latitude was
55" 1 S', in the narrowed part of the channel.
Of tni.s groupe of iflands, the largeft was now
upon out lei r, and is called Kodiak t as we were
after-
PACIFIC OCJSAN.
347
afterwards informed. The Commodore did not
bellow a name upon any of the others, though
he fuppofed them to be the fame that Beering has
named Schumagin’s Iflands *. Iflands appeared
to the fouthward, as far as an illand could be feen.
They begin in the longitude of aoo° 15'eaft, and
extend about two degrees to the weftward.
Moll of thefe illands are tolerably high, but
very barren and rugged; exhibiting very roman-
tic appearances, and abounding with rocks and
cliffs. They have feveral bays and coves about
them, and fome frelh- water llreams defcend from
their elevated parts ; but the land was not embel-
lifhed with a fingle tree or bulh. Plenty of fnow
flill remained on many of them, as well as on
thofe parts of the continent which appeared be-
tween the innermoft iflands.
By four o’clock in the afternoon, we had paffed
all the iflands to the fouth of us. We found
thirty fathoms water in the channel, and foon
after we had got through it, the Difcovery, which
was two miles altern, fired three guns, and brought
to, making a fignal to fpeak with us. Captain
Cook was much alarmed at this ; for, as no ap-
parent danger had been obferved in the channel,
he was apprehenfive, that the Difcovery had
fprung aleak, or met with fome fimilar accident.
A boat was fent to her, which immediately re-
* Decouvertes des Ru/Tes, par Muller, p. 262. 277.
turned
348
A VOYAGE TO THE
turned with Captain Clerke. He informed the
Commodore, that fome natives, in three or four
canoes, having followed the fhip for fome time,
at laid got under his ftern ; one of whom made
many figns, having his cap off, and bowing in
the European manner. A rope was then handed
down from the fhip, to which he fattened a thin
wooden box, and, after he had made fome more
gefticulations, the canoes left the Difcovery.
It was not imagined, that the box contained
any thing, till the canoes had departed, when it
was accidentally opened, and found to contain a
piece of paper, carefully folded up, on which
fome writing appeared, which they fuppofed to be
in the Ruffian language. To this paper was pre-
fixed the date of 1778, and a reference was made
therein to the year 1776. Though unable to de-
cypher the alphabet of the writer, we were con-
vinced, by his numerals, that others had pre-
ceded us in vifiting thefe dreary regions. Indeed,
the hopes of fpeedily meeting fome of the Ruffian
traders, mutt be highly fatisfaftory to thofe, who
had been fo long converiant with the favages of
the Pacific Ocean, and thofe of the continent of
North America.
At firft. Captain Clerke imagined, that fome
Ruffians had been fhipwrecked here ; and that,
feeing our fhips, thefe unfortunate perfons were
induced thus to inform us of their fituation.
Deeply imprefied with fentiments of humanity on
this
PACIFIC OCEAtt.
3+9
this occafion, he was in hopes the Refolution
would have Hopped till they had time to join us ;
but no fuch idea ever occurred to Captain Cook.
If this had really been the cafe, he luppofed, that
the firft Hep which fuch ihipwrecked perfons would
have taken, in order to fecure relief, would have
been, to fend fome of their people off to the {hips
in the canoes. He, therefore, rather thought,
the paper was intended to communicate fome in-
formation, from fome Ruffian, trader, who had
lately vifited thefe iflands, to be delivered to any
of his countrymen who fhould arrive; and that
the natives, fuppofing us to be Ruffians, had
brought off the note. Convinced of this, he en-
quired no farther into the matter, but made fail,
and fleered to the weft ward.
We ran all night with a gentle breeze at north-
eaft ; and the next morning at two, fome breakers
were feen within us, diftant about two miles;
others were foon after feen a-head, and they were
innumerable on our larboard bow, and alfo be-
tween us and the land. By holding a fouth courfe,
we, with difficulty, cleared them. Thefe breakers
were produced by rocks, many of which were
above water; they are very dangerous, and ex-
tend leven leagues from, land. We got on their
outfide about noon, when our latitude was 54° 44',
and our longitude 198°. The neareft land was
an elevated bluff point, and was named Rock
Point ; it bore north, about eight leagues diftant;
the
J5°
A voyage to the
the wefter nmoft part of the main, bore north- weft ^
and a high round hill, called Halibut Head , bore
fouth-weft, diftant about thirteen leagues.
At noon on the 21ft, we made but little pro-
grefs, having only faint winds and calms. Hali-
but Head then bore north 240 weft; and the
ifland where it is fituated, called Halibut Ifland ,
extended from north by eaft to north-weft. This
ifland is feven leagues in circumference, and, ex-
cept the head, is very low and barren ; feveral
fmall iflands are near it, between which and the
main, there appears to be apaflage, of the breadth
of two or three leagues.
O
W e were kept at fuch a diftance from the con-
tinent, by the rocks and breakers, that we had a
very diftant view of the coaft between Halibut
Ifland and Rock Point. We could, however,
perceive the main land covered with fnow ; and
particularly fome hills, whofe elevated tops
towered above the clouds to a moft ftupendous
height. A volcano was feen on the moft fouth-
wefterly of thefe hills, which perpetually threw
up immenfe columns of black fmoke ; it is at no
great diftance from the coaft, and is in the lati-
tude of 540 48^ and the longitude of 1 950 45'-
Its figure is a complete cone, and the volcano is
at the fummit of it : remarkable as it may appear,
the wind, at the height to which the fmoke of
the volcano rofe, often moved in an oppofite di-
rection to what it did at fea, even in a frefh gale.
3 Having
PACIFIC OCEAN. 351
Having three hours calm in the afternoon, up-
wards of an hundred halibuts were caught by our
people, fome of which weighed upwards of an
hundred pounds, and none of them lels than
twenty. They were highly acceptable to us. Wc
fifhed in thirty-five fathoms water, about four
miles diftant from the fliore j during which time,
we were vifited by a man in a fmall canoe, who
came from the large 3 Hand. When he approached
the fhip, he uncovered his head and bowed, as
the other had done the preceding day, when he
came off to the Difcovery.
That the Ruffians had fome communication
with thefe people, was evident, not only from
their politenefs, but from the written paper al-
ready mentioned. We had now an additional
proof of it ; for our new vifitor had.on a pair of
green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth,
under the frock of his own country. He had
with him, a grey fox fkin and fome fxfhing im-
plements : alfo a bladder, in which was fome
liquid, which we fuppofed to be oil j for he
opened it, drank a mouthful, and then clofed it
up again.
His canoe was fmaller than thofe we had feen
before, though of the fame conftrudtion like
thofe who had vifited the Difcovery, he ufed the
double-bladed paddle. His features refembled
thofe of the natives of Prince William’s Sound,
but he was perfe&ly free from any kind of paint ;
and
a Voyage to the
and his lip had been perforated in an oblique di-
rection, though, at that time, he had not any or-
nament in it. Many of the words, fo frequently
ufed by our vifiters in the Sound, were repeated
to him, but he did not appear to underftand any
of them ; owing either to his ignorance of the
dialed!, or our erroneous pronunciation.
The weather was principally cloudy and hazy,
till the afternoon of the 22d, when the wind
lhifted to the fouth-eaft, attended, as ufual, with
thick rainy weather. Before the fog, we faw no
part of the main land, except the volcano, and a
neighbouring mountain. We fleered weft till
feven, when, fearing we might fall in with the
land in thick weather, we hauled to the fouthward
till two the next morning, and then bore away
weft. Our progrefs was but trifling, having but
little wind, and that variable : at five o’clock in
the afternoon, we had an interval of fun-fhine,
when we faw land, bearing north 59° weft.
On the 24th, at fix in the morning, we faw
the continent, and at nine it extended from north-
eaft by eaft, to fouth-weft by weft ; the neareft
part four leagues diftant. The land to the fouth-
weft confifted of iflands, being what we had feen
the preceding night. In the evening, being about
the diftance of four leagues from the fhore, and
having little wind, we threw out our hooks and
lines, but caught only two or three little cod.
We
PACIFIC OCEAN.
353'
We got an eafterly breeze the next morning,
and, with it, what was very uncommon, clear
weather infomuch, that we clearly faw the vol-
cano, the other mountains, and all the main land
under them. It extended from north-eaft by
north, to north-weft half weft. Between this
point and the illands, a large opening appeared,
for which we fteered, till land was feen beyond
it; and, though we did not perceive that this
land joined the continent, a paflage through the
opening was very doubtful ; as well as whether
the land to the fouth-weft was infular or conti-
nental. Unwilling to truft too much to appear-
ances, we therefore fteered to the fouthward ;
when, having got without all the land in fight,
we fteered weft, the iflands lying in that direc-
tion.
Three of them, all of a good height, we had
pafted by eight o’clock ; more were now feen to
the weftward. In the afternoon, the weather be-
came gloomy, and afterwards turned to a mift,
the wind blowing frefh at eaft. We therefore
hauled the wind to the fouthward till day-break,
and then proceeded on our courfe to the weft.
We derived but little advantage from day-
light, the weather being fo thick that we could
not difcover objects at the diftance of a hundred
yards ; but, as the wind was moderate, we ven-
tured to run. About half an hour after four, the
found of breakers alarmed us, on our larboard
Vol. II.— n I?. A a bow i
354 A VOYAGE TO THE
bow; we found twenty-eight fathoms water, and
then twenty five. We brought the foip to, and
anchored in the laft depth ; the Commodore or-
dering the Difcovery, who was not far diflant, to
anchor alfo.
Some hours after, the fog being a little dif-
perfed, we difcovered the imminent danger we
had efcaped. We were three quarters of a mile
from the north-eafl fide of an ifland ; two ele-
vated rocks were about half a league from us,
and from each other. Several breakers alfo ap-
peared about them; and yet Providence had
fafely conducted the fhips through in the dark,
between thofe rocks, which we fhould not have
attempted to have done in a clear day, and to fo
commodious an anchoring place.
Being fo near land. Captain Cook ordered a
boat afoore, to examine what it produced. Wrhen
foe returned in the afternoon, the officer who
commanded her faid, he faw fome grafs, and
other fmall plants, one of which had the appear-
ance of purflain ; but the ifland produced neither
trees nor forubs.
The wind blew frefh at fouth, in the night;
but in the morning was more moderate, and the
fog, in a great degree, difperfed. We weighed
at feven o’clock, and fleered between the ifland
near which we had anchored, and a fmall one not
far from it. The breadth of the channel does
jiot exceed a mile, and the wind failed before we
i ' . * •* t * • ' * *** could
pacific ocean. 35$
could pafs through it; we were therefore obliged
to anchor, which we did in thirty-four fathoms
water. Land now prefented itfelf in every di-
rection. That to the fouth extended, in a ridge
of mountains, to the fouth-weft ; which we af-
terwards found to be an ifland called Ooiuilcijhka .
Between this ifland, and the land to the north,
which we fuppofed to be a group of iflands, there
appeared to be a channel in a north- weft direc-
tion. On a point, weft from the fhip, and at
the diftance of three quarters of a mile, we per-
ceived feveral natives and their habitations. To
this place we faw two whales towed in, which we
fuppofed had juft been killed. A few of the in-
habitants, occafionally, came off to the fhips,
and engaged in a little traffic with our people,
but never continued with us above a quarter of
an hour at a time. They feemed, indeed, re-
markably fhy; though we could readily difcover
they were not unacquainted with veffels, fimilar,
in fome degree, to ours. Their manner difplay-
ed a degree of politenels which we had never ex-
perienced among any of the lavage tribes.
About one in the afternoon, being favoured
with a light breeze, and the tide of flood, we weigh-
ed, and proceeded to the channel laft mentioned ;
expecting, when we had paffed through, either
to find the land trend away to the northward ; or
that we fliould difcover a paffage out to fea, to
the weft. For we did not fuppofe ourfelves to
A a 2 be
A VOYAGE TO THE
356
be in an inlet of the continent, but among iflands ;
and we were right in our conjedlures. Soon after
we got under fail, the wind veered to the north,
and we were obliged to ply. The depth of water
was from forty to twenty-feven fathoms. In the
evening, the ebb made it neceflary for us to an-
chor within three leagues of our laft ftation.
We weighed the next morning at day-break,
and were wafted up the paflage by a light breeze
at fouth after which we had variable light airs
from all directions. There was, however, a rapid
tide in our favour, and the Refolution got through
before the ebb made. The Difcovery was not
equally fortunate, for fhe was carried back, o-0t
into the race, and found a difficulty in getting
clear of it.
Being now through the channel, we found the
land, on one fide, trending weft and fouth-weft,
and that on the other fide to north. This en-
couraged us to hope, that the continent had taken
a new direction in our favour. Being fhort of
water, and expedting to be driven about in a
rapid tide, without wind fufficient to govern the
Hi ip, we flood for a harbour on the fouth fide of
the paflage, but were driven beyond it; and,
that we might not be forced back through the
paflage, anchored near the fouthern fhore, in
twenty-eight fathoms water, and out of the reach
of the ftrong tide ; though, even here, it ran
five knots and an half in an hour.
In
PACIFIC OCEAN.
357
In this fituation, we were vifited by feveral of
the natives, in feparate canoes. They bartered
fome fifhing implements for tobacco. A young
man, among them, overfet his canoe, while he
was along-fide of one of our boats. He was
caught hold of by one of our people, but the
canoe was taken up by another and carried afhore.
In confequence of this accident, the youth was
obliged to come into the fhip, where he was in-
vited into the cabin, and readily accepted the
invitation, without any furprize or embarraff-
ment. He had on an upper garment, refem-
bling a fhirt, made of the gut of a whale, or fome
other large fea-animal. Under this, he had ano-
ther of the fame form, made of the fkins of birds
with the feathers on, curioufly fewed together;
the feathered fide placed next his fkin. It was
patched with feveral pieces of filk ftuff, and his
cap was embellifhed with glafs beads.
H is cloaths being wet, we furnifhed him with
fome of our own, which he put on with as much
readinefs as we could have done. From the be-
haviour of this youth, and that of feveral others,
it evidently appeared, that thele people were no
llrangers to Europeans, and to many of their cuf-
toms. Something in our (hips, however, greatly
excited their curiofity ; for, fuch as had not ca-
noes to bring them off, alTembled on the neigh-
bouring hills to have a view of them.
At
6
35% A VOYAGE TO THE
At low water we towed the fliip into the har-
bour, where we anchored in nine fathoms water,
the Difcovery arriving foon after. A boat was
fent to draw the leine, but we caught only a few
trout, and fome other fmall filh.
We had not long anchored, before a native of
the ifland brought another note on board, fimi-
lar to that which had been given to Captain
Clerke. He prefented it to Captain Cook; but,
as it was written in the Ruffian language, neither
he, nor any of us, could read it. As it could
not be of any ufe to us, and might probably be
of confequence to others, the Commodore re-
turned it to the bearer, accompanied with a few
prefents ; for which he expreffed his thanks, as
he retired, by feveral low bows.
On the 29th, we law along the fhore, a group
of the natives of both fexes, feated on the grafs,
partaking of a repalt of raw fifh, which they
feemed to rcliffi exceedingly.
We were detained by thick fogs, and a con-
trary wind, till the 2d of July; during which
time we acquired fome knowledge of the coun-
try, as well as of its inhabitants ; the particulars
of which fhall be hereafter related.
This harbour is called Samganoodba , by the
natives, and is li mated on the north fide of
Oonalafhka, the latitude being 530 55k the lon-
gitude 1 930 30' ; and in the ftrait which feparates
this ifland from thole to the north. It is about
>3 a mile
PACIFIC OCEAN.
359
a mile broad at the entrance, and runs in about
four miles fouth by weft. It narrows towards
the head, the breadth there not exceeding a quar-
ter of a mile. Plenty of good water may be
procured here, but not a piece of wood of any
kind.
I
THE END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.
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