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B>EDEKER'S  GUIDE  BOOKS. 

GREAT  BRITAIN,  with  15  Maps,  30  Plans,  and  a  Panorama. 

Second  Edition.     1890.  10  marks. 

LONDON  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS,  with  3  Maps  and  15  Plans. 

Seventh  Edition.    1889.  6  marks. 

BELGIUM  AND  HOLLAND,   with  13  Maps   and  20  Plans. 

Tenth  Edition.    1891.  G  marks. 

THE  RHINE  from  Rotterdam  to  Constance  (the  Seven 

Mountains,  Moselle,  Volcanic  Eifel,  Vosges  Mts.,  Black  Fokest, 
etc. ),  with  36  Maps  and  22  Plans.  Eleventh  Edition.    1889.       G  marks. 

NORTHERN   GERMANY,    with  35  Maps    and   54   Plans. 

Tenth  Edition.    1890.  8  marks. 

SOUTHERN  GERMANY  and  AUSTRIA,  with  15  Maps  and 

30  Plans.     Seventh  Edition.    1891.  8  marks. 

THE  EASTERN  ALPS,   including  the  Bavarian  High- 
lands,   Tyrol,    Salzkammergut ,    etc.      with  35  Maps, 

12  Plans,  and  7  Panoramas.    Seventh  Edition.    1891.  8  marks. 

GREECE,  with  6  Maps,  H  Plans  and  a  Panorama  of  Athens. 

1889.  10  marks. 

NORTHERN  ITALY,  including  Florence  and  the  Island 

OF   Corsica,  and  routes  to  Italy  through  Fkance,  Switzekland, 
etc.,  with  19  Maps  and  33  Plans.  Eighth  Edition.  1889.  6  marks. 

CENTRAL  ITALY  and  ROME,  with  10  Maps,  31  Plans,  a 

Panorama  of  Rome   and   a  View  of  the   Forum   Komanum.      Tenth 
Edition.    1890.  6  marks. 

SOUTHERN  ITALY,   SICILY,   and  Excursions  to  the 
LiPARi  Islands,  Tunis  (Cakthage),  Sardinia,  Malta,  and 

Corfu,   with  26  Maps  and  16  Plans.    Tenth  Edition.   1890.    6  marks. 

NORWAY    AND    SWEDEN,    with   23  Maps   and   13  Plans. 

Fourth  Edition.     1889.  9  marks. 

PARIS  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS,  ^vith  Routes  from  London 

TO  Paris.  With  11  Maps  and  31  Plans.  Tenth  Edition.  1891.  6  marks. 

NORTHERN  FRANCE,  with  9  Maps  and  25  Plans.     1889. 

7  marks. 

SOUTHERN  FRANCE,  with  14  Maps  and  19  Plans.    1891. 

9  marks. 

SWITZERLAND,    and   the    adjacent    Parts    of    Italy, 

Savoy,  and  the  Tyrol,  with  39  Maps,  ll  Plans,  and  12  Panoramas. 
Fourteenth  Edition.    1891.  8  marks. 

LOWER  EGYPT,  with  the  Faylm  and  the  Peninsula  of 

Sinai,   with  is  3Iaps,  30  Plans,  7  Views,  and  76  Vignettes.    Second 
Edition.     1885.  16  marks. 

PALESTINE  AND  SYRIA,  with  18  Maps,  43  Plans,  a  Pano- 

rama  of  Jerusalem,  and  10  Views.     1876.  20  marks. 

CONVERSATION  DICTIONARY  in  four  languages     Eng- 

lish,  French,  GeAnan,  Italian.  3  marks. 

THE  TRAVELLER'S  MANUAL  OF  CONVERSATION,  in 

English,  German,  French,  and  Italian.  3  marks. 


^  ^ro 


1 

r 


Qytcu-v 


(Jf^n/).  /i^^— 


BELGIUM  AND  HOLLAND. 


MONEY-TABLE. 

(Comp.  pp.  xii,  xxi.) 


F 

nglisb 

Dutch. 

Belgian. 

German. 

American. 

1 

' 

t. 

s. 

'd. 

fl- 

cents. 

fr. 

cent. 

mark. 

rfg- 

dollar. 

cent. 

1 



_ 

12 



25 



20 

— 

4 

76 



19 



11 

40 

23 

75 

19 

— 

4 

5o 



18 



10 

80 

22 

50 

18 

— 

4 

2:1 



17 



10 

20 

21 

25 

17 

— 

4 

f) 



16 

_ 

9 

60 

20 

18 

— 

3 

81 



15 



9 

18 

75 

15 

— 

3 

57 



14 



8 

40 

17 

50 

14 

— 

3 

34 



13 



7 

80 

16 

25 

13 

— 

3 

10 



12 

_ 

7 

20 

15 

12 

— 

2 

sr, 



11 



6 

60 

13 

75 

11 



2 

Gl 



10 



6 

12 

50 

10 



2 

38 



9 



5 

40 

11 

25 

9 

— 

2 

14 



8 



4 

80 

10 

8 

— 

1 

91 



7 



4 

20 

8 

75 

7 



1 

67 



6 



3 

60 

7 

50 

6 



1 

43 



5 



3 

6 

25 

5 

— 

1 

in 



4 



2 

40 

5 

4 

— 

— 

95 



3 



1 

80 

3 

75 

3 

— 

— 

71 



2 



1 

20 

2 

50 

2 



— 

48 



1 

81|2 

1 

2 

15 

1 

70 

— 

41 



1 

7' 

— 

96 

2 

1 

60 

— 

38 



1 

— 

60 

1 

25 

1 

— 

24 



— 

9^|4 

— 

48 

1 

— 

— 

80 

— 

19 





9 



45 



94 



75 

— 

18 





8 



40 



83 



66 

— 

16 





7 

— 

35 



73 

— 

58 

— 

14 





6 

— 

30 



62 

_ 

50 

— 

12 





5 



25 



52 



41 

— 

10 





4 



20 



42 



33 

— 

8 





3 



15 



31 



25 

— 

6 





2 

_ 

10 



21 

_ 

16 

— 

4 

— 

— 

1 

5 

— 

10 

— 

8 

— 

2 

LINEAR  MEASURES. 


Metres 

Parisian 

Prussian      1 

Viennese 

English 

(Dutcli  Ells). 

Feet. 

Feet.         j 

Feet. 

Feet. 

1           1 

3,08 

3,19 

3,16 

3,28 

2 

6,16 

6,37 

6,33 

6,56 

3 

9,24 

9,56 

9,49 

9,84 

4 

12,31 

12,74 

12,65 

13,12 

0 

15,39 

15,93 

15,82 

16,40 

6 

18,47 

19,12 

18,98 

19.69 

7 

21,55 

22,30 

22,15 

22,97 

8 

24,63 

25,49 

25,31 

26,25 

9 

27,71 

28,68 

28,47 

29,53 

10 

30,78 

3186 

31,64 

32,81 

20 

61,57 

63,72 

63,27 

65,62 

30 

92,35 

95,59 

94,91  - 

98,43 

40 

123,14 

127,45 

126,55 

131,24 

50 

153,92 

159.31 

158,19 

164,04 

60 

1&4,71 

191,17 

189,82 

196,85 

70 

215,49 

223,03 

221,46 

229.66 

80 

246,28 

2.54,90 

253' 10 

262,47 

90 

277,06 

286,76 

284,74      • 

295,28 

100 

307,84 

318.62 

316,37 

328,09 

BELGIUM  AND  HOLLAND. 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 


BY 


K.  BAEDEKER. 


WITH  13  MAPS  AND  20  PLANS. 


TENTH  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  AUGMENTED. 


LEIPSIC  :  KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLLSHER. 

LONDON:    DULAU   AND    CO.,  37  SOHO  SQUAKE,    W. 
1891. 

All  rights  reserved. 


"Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or'all." 


STACK  AmiQC 

PEEFACE.        B313 

—        I3?l 

The  chief  objects  of  tlie  Handbook  for  Belgium  and 
Holland  are  to  supply  the  traveller  with  a  few  remarks  on 
the  progress  of  civilisation  and  art  in  these  interesting  coun- 
tries ;  to  render  him  as  far  as  possible  independent  of  the  em- 
barrassing and  expensive  services  of  commissionnaires, 
guides,  and  other  members  of  the  same  fraternity;  to  place 
him  in  a  position  to  employ  his  time,  his  money,  and 
his  energy  to  the  best  advantage ;  and  thus  to  enable  him 
to  derive  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  in- 
struction from  his  tour. 

The  Handbook  has  been  compiled  almost  entirely  from 
the  Editors  personal  observation,  and  he  has  used  every  en- 
deavour to  furnish  information  acceptable  to  travellers  of 
every  class.  The  present  edition,  which  corresponds  to  the 
19th  German  edition  and  the  14th  French,  has  been  care- 
fully revised  and  remodelled  from  the  most  recent  time- 
tables, catalogues,  government  statistics,  and  other  sources. 
The  Editor  has  also  frequently  availed  himself  of  the  valuable 
information  kindly  afforded  by  travellers,  which  he  grate- 
fully acknowledges. 

The  introductory  article  on  art  has  been  contributed  by 
Professor  Anton  Springer  of  Leipsic,  and  has  been  adapted 
for  the  use  of  English  travellers  with  the  kind  assistance 
of  Mr.  J.  A.  Crowe,  author  of  'The  Early  Flemish  Painters'. 
Other  valuable  remarks  on  many  of  the  principal  works  of 
art  mentioned  in  the  Handbook  are  also  from  Professor 
Springer's  pen. 

The  arrangement  of  the  pictures  in  some  of  the  Belgian 
galleries  is  frequently  changed;  but,  as  a  general  rule,  the 


Yi  PREFACE. 

data  afforded  by  the  Handbook  will  enable  the  traveller  to 
dispense  with' the  costly  and  often  bewildering  catalogues. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  on  which  the  utmost  care  has 
been  bestowed,  will  prove  of  material  service  to  the  tra- 
veller when  threading  his  way  through  the  intricacies  of 
the  curious  mediaeval  cities  of  Belgium,  or  when  entangled 
in  the  network  of  railways,  rivers,  and  canals  with  which 
the  Netherlands  are  overspread. 

Heights  and  Distances  are  given  in  English  measure- 
ment, and  the  Populations  in  accordance  with  the  most  re- 
cent census. 

The  Hotels  indicated  by  asterisks  are  those  which  the 
Editor  has  reason  to  consider  the  most  comfortable  and 
worthy  of  commendation ;  and  in  awarding  these  asterisks 
he  has  entirely  disregarded  the  self-laudations  of  innkeepers 
and  other  persons  of  a  similar  class.  The  average  charges  and 
prices  stated  in  the  Handbook,  although  constantly  tending 
to  rise,  will  enable  the  traveller  to  form  some  idea  of  his 
probable  expenditure. 

To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor 
begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  and  cour- 
tesy towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  passport  to  his  com- 
mendation, and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strict- 
ly excluded  from  his  Handbooks. 


CONTENTS, 


Introduction. 

A.  Belgium. 

Page 

I.  Plan  of  Tour xi 

U.  Money  and  Travelling  Expenses xii 

III.  Passports.   Custom  House xii 

lY.  Language xiii 

V.  Churches,  Picture  Galleries,  and  Collections    ...  xv 

VI.  Railways xvi 

VII.  History  and  Statistics xvi 

B.  Holland. 

I.    Plan  of  Tour xxi 

n.    Money  and  Travelling  Expenses xxi 

III.  Passports.    Custom  House xxii 

IV.  Language xxii 

V.    Picture  Galleries  and  Collections xxvi 

VI.    Railways xxvi 

VII.  Dutch  Characteristics xxvi 

VIII.  History  and  Statistics    . xxxi 

Historical  Sketch  of  Art  in  the  Netherlands  by  Professor 

Springer xxxvi 

Route  Belgium.  Page 

1.  From  London  to  Ostend ^ 

Slykens.    Mariakerke.    Middelkerke.     Oudenburg       .      .      6,7 

2.  Blankenherghe  and  Heyst "^ 

Lisseweghe       . ^ 

From  Blankenbergbe  to  Ostend  by  the  coast  ....  8 

From  Heyst  to  Bruges.    Sluis 9 

3.  From  Ostend  to  Brussels  via  Bruges  and  Ghent       .     .     .  10 

From  Bruges  to  Blankenbergbe  and  Heyst       ....  10 

From  Gbent  to  Terneuzen lU 

From  Ghent  to  Bruges  via  Eecloo 10 

From  Alost  to  Antwerp H 

4.  Bruges H 

Damme 27 

5.  The  Railways  of  S.W.  Flanders 28 

1.  From  Ostend  to  Ypres 28 

From  Ypres  to  Boperinghe  and  Hazebrouck    ....  30 

2.  From  Ghent  to  Dunkirk  viS,  Lichtervelde      ...  31 
From  Diksmuide  to  Nieuport ^^ 

3.  From  Bruges  to  Courtrai       .      .           32 

From  Roulera  to  Ypres  and  to  Menin 32 


vili  CONTENTS. 

Bonte  Page 

6.  From  Brussels  to  Conrtrai  and  Ypres 33 

7.  Ghent 34 

8.  From  Ghent  to  Courtrai  and  Tournai 55 

From  Ghent  to  Oudenaarde,  Leuze,  and  Mens     ...  55 

From  Mouscron  to  Lille 57 

9.  Tournai 58 

10.  From  Ghent  to  Antwerp 61 

a.   State  Railway  via  Dendermonde  and  Puers      .     .  61 
,    From  Dendermoade  to  St.  Nicolas,  Lokeren,  Alost,  and 

Brussels 62 

6.  "Waesland  Railway 62 

11.  From  London  to  Brussels  via  Calais 64 

Lille 64 

From  Tournai  to  Mons 68 

From  Denderleeuw  to  Grammont,  Ath,  and  Jurbise       ,  69 

From  Ath  to  Blaton.     Chateau   of  Beloeil       ....  69 

12.  Brussels 72 

13.  From  Brussels  to  Charleroi  via  Luttre 115 

Battle  Field  of  Waterloo IIG 

14.  From  Brussels  to  Antwerp  via  Malines 130 

From  Blalines  to  Louvain  and  to  Ghent 135 

From  Malines  to  St.  Xicolas  and  Terneuzen  ....  135 

From  Contich  to  Turnhout      . 135 

15.  Antwerp 136 

Hoogstraten 172 

16.  From  Antwerp  to  Rotterdam 172 

a.  Railway  Journey 172 

h.   Steamboat  Journey 173 

17.  From  Antwerp  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  via  Maastricht      .     .  175 

From  Hasselt  to  Maaseyck 176 

18.  From  Antwerp  to  Miinchen-Gladbach 177 

19.  From  Brussels  to  Braine-le-Comte  and  Mons       .     .  178 

From  Mons  to  Paris 180 

From  Mons  to  Charleroi 181 

20.  From  Ghent  to  Charleroi  and  Namur  via  Braine-le-Comte  181 

From  Manage  to  Mons 181 

From  Manage  to  Wavre.     Quatrehras 182 

From  Charleroi  to  Vireux 183 

From  Chatelineau  to  Givet 184 

21.  From  Namur  to  Dinant  and  Givet 186 

Valley  of  the  Lesse 189 

From 'Givet  to  Sedan 190 

22.  From  Brussels  to  Luxembourg  via  Namur 191 

Grotte  de  Eochefort.     Trou  de  Han-sur-Lesse      .       .      .  192 

From  Libramont  to  Gouvy 194 

From  Arlon  to  Longwy  and  to  Gedinne 194 

23.  From  Brussels  to  Liege  via  Louvain 195 

From  Louvain  to  Rotselaer,  Aerschot,  and  Herenthals   .  195 
From  Tirlemont  to  Diest;  to  St.  Trond  and  Tongres;  and 

to  Is^amur 196 

From  Landen  to  Hasselt 196 

From  Landen  to  Gembloux 197 

24.  Louvain    ....'. 197 

25.  From  Louvain  to  Charleroi 202 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Ronte  Page 

26.  Liege  and  Seraing 203 

27.  From  Liege  to  Marloie 214 

From  Ftivage  to  Trois-Yierges  (^Cherain  de  Fer  de  FAm- 

bleve) 214 

From  Melreax  to.  La  Roche 217 

28.  From  Liege  to  Maastricht 218 

29.  From  Liege  to  Namur 221 

From  Huy  to  Landen  and  to  Ciney 223 

30.  From  Liege  to  Aix-la-Chapelle 224 

The  Barrage  de  la  Gileppe 227 

31.  From  Pepinster  to  Trois-Yierges.   Spa 227 

Excursions  from  Spa.  Baraque  Michel.  Coo.  Remouchamps  231,  232 

From  Stavelot  to  Malmedy .     .             232 


Luxembourg. 

32.  From  Trois-Yierges  to  Luxembourg 232 

From  Kautenbach  to  Oberwiltz  and  iTsch   an  der  Sauer  234 
From  Kruchten   to  La  Rochette.     From   La   Rochette   to 

Echternach.     Befort.     Berdorf 235,230 

Valley  of  the  Eisch.     Valley  of  the  Mamer    .      .      .       236,237 

From  Luxembourg  to  Remich 23S 

33.  From    Luxembourg    to   Wasserbillig   via  Diekircb    and 

Echternach 239 

Excursions  from  Diekirch.  Valley  of  the  Our.    Vianden23y,  2iU. 

34.  From  Luxembourg  to  Treves 242 

Holland. 

35.  From  Flushing  to  Breda 243 

Domburg.    Veere 245 

36.  Rotterdam 246 

37.  From  Rotterdam  to  the  Hague ,  Leyden ,  Haarlem ,   and 

Amsterdam 255 

From  Levden  to  Woerden 258 

38.  The  Hague     ". 259 

39.  Scheveningen 276 

40.  Leyden 279 

Ifoordwyk  aan  Zee.    Kat^vyk  aan  Zee 285 

41.  Haarlem 285 

Zandvoort 292 

42.  Amsterdam 293 

Excursions  in  the  Environs  of  Amsterdam       ....  335 

43.  From  Amsterdam   and  Haarlem  to  the  Helder.     North 

Holland 338 

Wyk  aan  Zee ,  339 

44.  From  Amsterdam  to  Harlingen  and  Groningen  via  Eiik- 

huizen  and  Stavoren 342 

45.  From  Amsterdam  or  Utrecht  to  Leeuwarden  and  Groningen  346 

From  Zwolle  to  Kampen 348 

Pauper    Colonies     of    Frederiksoord,     Wilhelminaoord, 

Willemsoord,  Veenhuizen,  and  Ommerschans        .       .  349 

From  Groningen  to  Delfzyl.    Schiermonnik-Oog  .       .      .  351 


X  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

46.  From  Groningen  to  Bremen 351 

47.  From  Amsterdam  and  Arnliem  to  Zutphen  and  Rheine  361 

From  Zutphen  to  Winterswyk      ..,."...  353 

From  Zutphen  to  ZwoUe 353 

48.  From  Amsterdam  or  Rotterdam  to  Utrecht  and  Amhem  354 

From  Gouda  to  the  Hague 356 

49.  From  Liege  to  Utrecht 359 

Chateau  of  Heeswyk 361 

50.  Utrecht , 362 

51.  From  Amhem  to  Cologne 367 

1.  Via  Cleve  and  Crefeld 867 

2.  Via  rmmerich  and  Diisseldorf 368 

3.  Steamboat  Route 368 

52.  FromArnhem  to  Nymegen,'SHertogenbosch,  andTilburg  370 

53.  From  Maastricht  to  Nymegen  and  Dordrecht     ....  372 

54.  From  Cologne  to  Rotterdam  via  Venlo 374 

List  of  Artists 379 

Index         393 


Maps. 

1.  General  Map  of  Belgium:  before  the  title-page. 

2.  Map  of  the  Environs  op  Ostend  and  Bruges:  p.  7. 

3.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Brussels:  p.  114. 

4.  Map  of  the  Battle  Field  of  Waterloo  :  p.  115. 

5.  Map  of  the  Meose  from  Givet  to  Liege:  p.  187. 

6.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Eochefoht  and  Han-sur-Lesse  :  p.  192. 

7.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Maastricht:  p.  219. 

8.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Spa  :  between  pp.  228,  229. 

9.  Map  of  the  Geand-ducht  of  Luxembourg  ;  between  pp.  232.  233. 
lU.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  the  Hague:  p.  277. 

11.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Amsterdam  :  p.  335. 

12.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Arnhem:  p.  357. 

13.  General  Map  ot  Holland  :  after  the  Index. 

Flans  of  Towns. 

Amsterdam  (p.  293),  Antwerp  (p.  136),  Bruges  (p.  11),  Brussels  (p.  71),  Delft 
(p.  256),  Ghent  (p.  34),  Groningen  (p.  350),  The  Hague  (p.  276),  Haarlem 
(p.  285),  Leyden  (p.  284),  Liege  (p.  203),  Lille  (p.  64),  Louvain  (p.  197), 
Luxembourg  (p.  237),  Malines  (p.  131),  Nainur  fp.  186),  Ostend  (p.  6),  Rot- 
terdam (p.  246),  Tournai  Cp-  58),  Utrecht  (p.  3lj2). 


Abhreviations. 

R.  =  Room. 

ft.   =  English  foot. 

B.   =  Breakfast. 

N.   =  North,  northern,  etc 

D.  =  Dinner. 

S.    =  South,  etc. 

A.   =  Attendance. 

E.  =  East,  etc. 

L.   =  Light. 

W.  =  West,  etc. 

M.  =  English  mile. 

r.    =  right. 
1.     =  left. 

S.  =  Supper. 

dej.  =  Dejeuner. 

hr.  =  hour. 

The  letter  d  with  a. date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates  the 
year  of  his  death.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of  a  place 
shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  number  of  miles  placed  before 
the  principal  places  on  railway-routes  and  high-roads  generally  indicates 
their  distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


Asterisks  are  used  as  luarks  of  commenda'ion. 


BELGIUM. 


I.    Plan  of  Tour. 

Belgium  is  now  so  completely  iatersected  by  a  network  of  rail- 
ways ,  that  the  traveller  will  rarely  have  occasion  to  travel  by  any 
other  conveyance ;  but  a  steamboat-trip  on  the  Meuse,  and  a  few 
excursions  on  horseback  or  on  foot  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Liege, 
Namur,  Dinant,  Spa,  etc.,  should  not  be  omitted;  for  these 
are  foremost  among  the  many  beautiful  and  historically-interesting 
districts  of  which  Belgium  can  boast.  On  the  whole ,  however, 
the  works  of  the  painter  and  the  architect  are  Belgium's  great  attrac- 
tions ;  and  as  a  large  proportion  of  the  traveller's  time  will  pro- 
bably be  spent  in  the  cities  and  larger  towns,  he  is  recommend- 
ed to  select  the  spring  or  autumn  in  preference  to  the  summer 
for  his  tour.  Those  who  are  already  acquainted  with  the  towns 
and  their  treasures  of  art,  or  whose  object  is  retirement  and  re- 
pose ,  will  find  many  delightful  spots  for  spending  the  summer  on 
the  banks  of  the  Meuse,  or  in  the  environs  of  Spa. 

The  following  tour,  beginning  at  Ostend  and  terminating  at 
Antwerp,  will  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  time  requisite  for  a 
glimpse  at  the  chief  attractions  of  Belgium.  Travellers  entering 
Belgium  from  France,  Holland,  or  Germany,  will  find  no  difficulty 
in  planning  other  tours  with  the  aid  of  the  map. 

Ostend  and  Bruges IV2  day 

Ghent 1        „ 

Courtrai,  Tonrnai,  Mons 2        „ 

Charleroi,  Namur 1        ,, 

Valley  of  (he  Meuse,  Dinant IV2    „ 

Liege  and  Seraing 1        ,, 

Maastricht  and  the  Petersberg 1        „ 

Louvain  and  Brussels 2        ,, 

Waterloo 1        „ 

Malines 1        „ 

Antwerp 2        „ 

15  days. 

In  Older  to  prevent  loss  of  time  in  exploring  towns,  the  traveller 
should  carefully  consult  the  plans  before  leaving  his  hotel ,  and  if 
pressed  for  time  he  had  better  hire  a  cab  or  vigilante  by  the  hour, 
dismissing  it,  however,  when  a  prolonged  visit  to  a  picture-gallery  or 
museum  is  contemplated.  The  Handbook  renders  the  services  of 
commissionnaires  and  guides  entirely  superfluous  (half-a-day  2-3, 
whole  day  4-5  fr.),   and  the   traveller   is  particularly    cautioned 


xii     Money.  BELGIUM. 

against  employing  those  of  an  inferior  class  by  whom  he  is  impor- 
tuned in  the  streets. 

II.  Money  and  Travelling  Expenses. 

Money.  The  Monetary  System  of  France  was  introduced  into 
Belgium  in  1833  ;  and  by  the  Convention  of  Paris  of  1865  Belgium 
belongs  to  a  monetary  league  with  France,  Switzerland,  and  Italy. 
One  franc,  100  centimes,  80  German  pfennigs,  50  Austrian  kreu- 
zers,  47  Dutch  cents,  20  American  cents,  and  9^/4  pence  are  all 
nearly  equivalent  (see  the  money-table  at  the  beginning  of  the 
book).  The  coins  in  common  circulation  are  French  Napoleons 
(20  fr.)  in  gold;  5,  21/2,  1,  V2.  and  Vsfr.  pieces  in  silver;  10,  5,  2, 
1  c.  in  copper;  20,  10,  5  c.  in  nickel.  Swiss  and  papal  coins 
should  be  refused.  English  and  French  banknotes  and  English  gold 
are  received  at  all  the  principal  towns,  hotels,  and  railway-stations 
at  their  full  value  (li.  =  25  fr.).  Belgian  notes  from  20  to  1000  fr. 
are  current  in  all  parts  of  Belgium,  but  do  not  realise  their  full  value 
in  France  or  elsewhere.  English  circular  notes  are  recommended  for 
the  transport  of  large  sums,  in  preference  to  banknotes  or  gold,  as 
they  always  realise  a  favourable  exchange,  and  as,  if  lost,  their  value 
Is  recoverable.  Money  should  not  be  changed  except  at  the  shops 
of  the  larger  and  more  respectable  money-changers;  the  small  dealers 
at  the  railway-stations  seldom  give  the  due  rate  of  exchange. 

ExpEKSES.  Hotels  of  the  highest  class  are  somewhat  expensive 
at  Brussels  and  the  principal  Belgian  watering-places,  but  in  most 
other  parts  of  the  country  they  will  be  found  cheaper  than  in  Eng- 
land. The  average  charges  are  as  follows  :  bed  3  fr.,  coffee  and  rolls 
lV2fr.,  dinner  3-5  fr. ,  1/2  bottle  of  Bordeaux  IV2-2  fr. ,  atten- 
dance 1  fr.  The  table  d'hote  dinner  in  the  larger  towns  is  generally 
between  4.30  and  6  p.m.  Supper  may  be  ordered  at  a  fixed  charge 
of  2  fr.  or  upwards.  The  charges  at  hotels  of  the  second  class  are 
about  one-third  lower,  while  the  accommodation  is  sometimes  quite 
as  good,  although  less  pretending.  Hotel-expenses  therefore  need 
not  exceed  10-15  fr.  per  day;  the  fees  payable  at  picture-gal- 
leries, museums ,  and  churches  amount  to  3-4  fr.  per  day ,  and 
travelling  expenses  to  8-10  fr. ;  so  that  most  travellers  should  be 
prepared  for  a  daily  expenditure  of  at  least  25-30  fr.  each.  On 
the  other  hand  the  'voyageur  en  garden',  the  artist,  the  student,  and 
the  pedestrian  may  easily  reduce  their  expenditure  to  half  that  sum 
without  much  diminution  of  comfort. 

III.  Passports.    Custom  Honse. 
Passports.     These   documents    are   now   dispensed    with    in 
Belgium,   but  they  are  occasionally  useful  in  proving  the  traveller's 
identity,  procuring  admission  to  private  collections,  etc.,  and  they 
must  be  shown  in  order  to  obtain  delivery  of  registered  letters. 


BELGIUM.  Language.       xiii 

Custom  Housb.  The  formalities  of  the  douane  are  generally 
very  lenient.  The  traveller  should  always,  if  possible,  superintend 
the  examination  of  his  luggage  in  person.  In  crossing  a  frontier 
even  the  smaller  articles  of  luggage  usually  kept  in  the  railway 
carriage  have  to  be  submitted  to  inspection.  The  traveller  is  al- 
lowed lib.  of  tobacco  or  cigars  duty  free,  but  he  should  declare  it 
to  the  custom-house  officers.  When  a  frontier  is  to  be  crossed, 
ordinary  passengers'  luggage  should  never  be  sent  by  goods-train. 
The  risk  of  detention ,  pilfering ,  and  other  vexatious ,  far  out- 
weighs any  saving  of  trouble  or  expense  which  this  plan  affords. 

17.  Language. 

The  linguist,  the  ethnologist,  and  indeed  every  observant  tra- 
veller will  be  interested  in  the  marked  differences  between  the 
various  races  of  which  the  Belgian  nation  is  composed.  The  Walloons 
(of  Namur,  Liege,  Verviers,  etc.),  who  are  believed  to  be  partly  of 
Celtic  extraction,  are  remarkable  for  their  enterprising  and  in- 
dustrious, and  at  the  same  time  passionate  and  excitable  character. 
The  Flemings,  who  constitute  about  five-eighths  of  the  population, 
are  a  somewhat  phlegmatic  race  of  Teutonic  origin ;  they  are  pre- 
eminently successful  in  agriculture  and  those  pursuits  in  which 
energetic  action  is  less  requisite  than  patient  perseverance,  and 
their  language  is  of  the  Teutonic  stock,  being  closely  akin  to  the 
Dutch.  Antwerp  and  other  seaports,  however,  also  possess  a  thriv- 
ing commercial  and  seafaring  Flemish  population.  A  third  element 
is  the  French.  Political  refugees  and  obnoxious  journalists  fre- 
quently transfer  the  sphere  of  their  labours  from  Paris  to  Brussels, 
while  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  Belgian  population  in  the 
principal  towns  affect  French  manners  and  customs,  are  frequently 
educated  in  France,  and  are  often  entirely  ignorant  of  the  Flemish 
language.  A  valuable  and  interesting  work,  to  which  reference  is 
frequently  made  in  the  Handbook,  is  the  ^Descriptio  totius  Belgii' 
by  the  learned  Florentine  Guicciardini  (d.  1589),  who  in  his  ca- 
pacity of  Tuscan  ambassador  resided  for  several  years  in  the  Nether- 
lands. '■LeodicunC  (Liege),  he  says,  '■utitur  lingua  Gallicaj  Aquis- 
granum  (Aix-la-Chapelle)  Germanica:  viri  Leodicenses  alacres, 
festivi,  tractabiles ;  Aquisgranenses  melancholici,  severi,  difficiles.  In 
summa,  tantum  alteri  et  natura  et  moribus,  totaque  adeo  vitae  ra- 
tione  ah  alteris  differunt,  quantum  Galli  discrepant  a  Germanis\ 

The  boundary  between  the  "Walloon  and  Flemish  languages  is  a 
tolerably-straight  line  drawn  from  Liege  southwards  past  Brussels 
to  Calais,  "Walloon  being  spoken  in  a  few  isolated  districts  to  the 
N.,  and  Flemish  here  and  there  to  the  S.  of  the  line. 

French  is  the  language  of  the  government,  the  legislature,  the 
army,  of  most  of  the  newspapers,  of  public  traffic,  of  literature, 
and  indeed  of  all  the  upper  classes,  as  it  has  been  since  the  time 
of  the  crusades. 


xlv       Language. 


BELGIUM. 


The  Walloon  language,  wMch  resembles  a  very  corrupt  dialect 
of  French,  or  rouchi  frauQais  as  it  is  termed  hy  the  French,  is 
an  early  French  (Romanic)  patois,  with  Celtic  and  Teutonic  ele- 
ments, occurring  occasionally  in  ancient  documents  and  poems, 
and  not  entirely  without  its  literature,  hut  almost  as  unin- 
telligible to  a  Frenchman  as  to  an  Englishman  or  a  German. 
Guicciardini  describes  it  as  ^sermo  communiter  Gallicus;  sed 
quia  Galliam  inter  aique  Germaniam  positi ,  corruptus  valde  et 
perabsurdus\  The  linguist  who  desires  to  form  some  acquaintance 
with  the  Walloon  language  is  referred  to  two  excellent  works 
published  at  Liege  in  1845  :  'Poesies  en  patois  de  Liege,  precedees 
d'une  dissertation  grammaticale  sur  ce  patois,  etsuivies  d'un  glossaire 
par  Simonon\  and  the  'Dictionnaire  etymologique  de  la  langue 
Wallonne  par  Ch.  Grandgagnage\  the  latter  unfortunately  uncom- 
pleted. Liege  also  possesses  an  excellent  Societe  de  Litterature 
Wallonne,  the  object  of  which  is  to  disseminate  useful  literature. 
The  following  popular  rhymes  from  the  'Almanach  par  mattre 
Matthieu  Laensbergh'  will  serve  as  a  specimen  of  the  language: 

January : 
II  gna  pu  d'broUli  hi  cTponssir.  I  H  y  a  plus  de  bromllard  que  de  pous- 


Li  ch6<r  sop'  so  on  vi  stoumak. 
So  tCfreut  pat,  on  bon  spet  cazak^ 

Ni  ferit  nin  pu  d'bin  ki  Vsolo, 
Si  voUf  lUr  on  po  sor  no. 


Febbuabt : 


La  chaude  soupe  sur  un  vieil  estomac , 
Dans  un  pays  froid  une  bonne  ^paisse 

casaque, 
Ne  ferait  pas  plus  de  bien  que  le  soleil, 
S'il  voulait  luire  un  peu  sur  nous. 


Apeil: 


C'est  Vushge  dist-on  d'  s''aUrap6 
Lonk  et  VauV,  It  prumt  d'avri: 
Si  cn^esteu  ko  qu'po  s''diverti, 
Qu''on  koiraK'  in''  goV  A  s"dup4I 
Mais  c'n^est  pu  po  nV  qu''on  s^surprin, 

Di  mon  si  on  ce  rete,  ci  n'est  if  de  gros 
des  din. 
On  sHromp^  on  s^dispoie  al  tournaie: 

(Test  Vprumt  d^avri  toV  Vannaie! 


C'est  Tusage,  dit-on,  de  s'attraper 
L'un  et  Tautre  le  premier  d'avril : 
Si  ce  n'^tait  ^ue  pour  se  divertir, 
Qu'on  cherchat  un  peu  a  se  duper ! 
Mais  ce  n'est  plus  pour  rire  qu'on  se 

surprend, 
Du  moins  si  Ton  en  rit  ce  n'est  que  du 
gros  des  dents. 
On  se  trompe,  on  se  d^pouille  tour 

a  tour: 
Cest  le  prem.  d'avril  toute  Tann^e. 


The  Flemish  language  differs  but  slightly  from  the  Dutch,  both 
being  branches  of  the  same  family  of  Germanic  languages.  In  the 
middle  ages  they  formed  but  one  tongue ,  and  even  at  the  present 
day  the  Flemish  spoken  language  differs  no  more  from  the  Dutch 
than  some  German  dialects  do  from  each  other ,  while  the  written 
languages  are  almost  identical,  especially  since  about  1864,  when 
the  Flemish  writers  ceased  to  use  certain  unimportant  orthogra- 
phical peculiarities  that  had  previously  distinguished  the  languages. 
Flemish,  although  a  rich  and  expressive  language,  cannot  be  called 
a  highly- cultivated  tongue,  being  spoken  by  the  uneducated  classes 
only ,   and  possessing  but  little  original  literature.     Centuries  of 


BELGIUxM.  Churche.^.       xv 

Spanish ,  Austrian ,  and  French  domination  have  left  the  Flemish 
language  unaltered  for  the  simple  reason  that  it  was  never  used 
as  a  written  language,  except  for  catechisms,  prayer-hooks,  legends, 
etc.,  for  the  use  of  the  lower  classes.  Since  the  year  1840  several 
scholars  of  eminence  and  a  numher  of  learned  societies  have  zea- 
lously striven  to  procure  the  introduction  of  Flemish  into  the  higher 
political  and  social  circles  ,  hut  their  efforts  have  hitherto  met  with 
indifferent  success.  A  law  was  passed  in  1873  permitting  a  more 
general  use  of  Flemish  in  judicial  proceedings  than  had  previously 
been  competent,  and  in  1883  the  use  of  the  Flemish  speech  was  re- 
introduced into  the  middle-class  schools  of  the  Flemish  provinces. 
While,  however,  this  may  tend  to  preserve  and  purify  the  language, 
the  fact  remains  unchanged,  that  a  knowledge  of  French  is  still  con- 
sidered indispensahle  to  all  but  the  lowest  agricultural  and  labour- 
ing classes. 

The  following  peculiarities  of  pronunciation  are  common  to 
Flemish  and  Dutch :  y  (in  Dutch  (/)  is  pronounced  like  the  Eng- 
lish i  in  time  (but  in  West  Flanders  like  e),  u  like  the  French  u,  eu 
like  the  French  eu,  ecu  like  the  English  a  (in  fate),  oe  like  oo,  ae 
like  ah,  ou  as  in  English,  ui  like  the  French  eu-i,  oei  like  we,  sch 
like  s  and  the  guttural  ch  in  the  Scotch  loch,  and  sch  at  the  end 
of  a  word  almost  like  s. 

After  what  has  been  said,  it  need  hardly  be  added  that  a  slight 
knowledge  of  French  will  enable  the  traveller  in  Belgium  to  con- 
verse with  every  one  with  whom  he  is  likely  to  come  in  contact, 
and  that  an  acquaintance  with  the  Flemish  and  Walloon  dialects 
will  probably  be  of  little  use  except  to  the  philologist.  Those 
who  are  ignorant  of  French  will  be  glad  to  know  that  English  is 
spoken  at  most  of  the  principal  hotels  throughout  the  country. 

V.  Chxirches,  Picture  Galleries,  and  Collections. 

The  Chuhches  (Roman  Catholic)  are  usually  open  from  G  a.m. 
till  noon,  but  in  the  afternoon  the  visitor  must  apply  to  the  sacris- 
tan. If  the  architecture  or  the  pulpit  be  the  chief  object  of  interest  it 
may  be  inspected  in  the  forenoon,  but  when  pictures  are  to  be  seen 
the  attendance  of  the  sacristan  is  necessary,  as  they  are  often  covered 
with  curtains  or  concealed  in  side-chapels.  The  best  hours  in  this 
case  are  12-4  p.m.,  when  there  is  no  service.  Fee  for  one  person 
V2-i  fr.,  and  for  a  party  more  in  proportion.  In  many  churches 
the  fees  are  fixed  by  tariff,  but  here  also  a  fee  to  the  sacristan  is  oc- 
casionally expected. 

Picture  Galleries  and  Collections  are  generally  open  gratis 
from  10  or  11  a.m.  till  3,  4,  or  5  p.m.,  but  on  certain  days  a  trifling 
fee  for  admission  (V2-I  fr.)  is  sometimes  charged.  For  admission 
to  town-halls  and  similar  sights,  the  fee  is  usually  about  the  same. 
In  visiting  a  private  collection  a  single  traveller  is  expected  to 
give  a  gratuity  of  about  2  fr. 


xvi     History.  BELGIUM. 

VI.  Bailways. 

The  most  trustworthy  time-tahles  are  contained  in  the  '■Guide 
officiel  desvoyageurs  sur  tons  les  chemins  de  fer  de  Belgique',  publish- 
ed monthly,  and  sold  at  all  the  principal  railway-stations  (edition 
in  yellow  cover,  with  map,  20  c.}. 

The  fares  on  the  Belgian  lines  are  prohably  the  lowest  in  the 
railway-world.  The  charges  per  Engl.  M.  are  now  about  17  c.  for 
the  first,  11  c.  for  the  second,  and  81/2  c.  for  the  third  class;  ex- 
press fares  are  somewhat  higher.  Return-tickets  are  issued  at  a 
reduction  of  20  per  cent.,  and  are  available  from  1  to  3  days  ac- 
cording to  the  distance.  In  1890  there  were  2793  M.  of  railway 
open  for  traffic  in  Belgium. 

Luggage  must  be  booked  and  paid  for  separately.  On  most  of 
the  international  through-routes  56  lbs.  are  free,  but  on  the  inland 
routes  the  cost  of  its  transport  not  unfrequently  amounts  to  as 
much  as  a  second  or  third  class  fare.  The  traveller  is  therefore 
recommended  to  restrict  his  requirements  if  possible  to  the  limits 
of  a  travelling-bag  or  moderate  valise ,  which  when  necessary  he 
can  wield  unaided,  and  take  with  him  into  the  railway-carriage, 
so  as  to  avoid  the  delay  and  expense  incurred  in  booking  it  for  the 
luggage- van.  Anything  over  56  lbs.  in  weight,  however,  must  be 
booked,  and  should  be  at  the  office  at  least  1/4  hr.  before  the  train 
starts.  The  luggage-offices  are  closed  3min.  before  the  hour  of  de- 
parture. An  advantage  peculiar  to  the  Belgian  railways  is  that,  in 
the  case  of  the  inland  traffic,  luggage  may  always  be  forwarded  by 
passenger-train  whether  the  sender  takes  a  personal  ticket  for  the 
journey  or  not.  Luggage  may  be  insured  at  a  charge  of  ,10  c.  per 
100  fr.  of  the  value. 

There  are  Refreshment  Rooms  (Buffets-Restaurants)  at  a  few  of 
the  Belgian  stations  only.  Their  charges  are  mentioned  in  the  above- 
noted  official  guide. 

Vn.   History  and  Statistics. 

The  country  called  Belgium  at  the  present  day,  which  was  origi- 
nally peopled  with  a  race  of  Celtic  origin  ,  and  was  subsequently 
overrun  by  Teutonic  invaders ,  was  conquered  by  Caesar ,  and  re- 
mained under  Roman  supremacy  until  the  beginning  of  the  5th 
century,  when  the  Salic  Franks  established  themselves  in  the  dis- 
trict between  the  Schelde,  the  Mouse,  and  the  Lower  Rhine. 

In  the  9th  century  the  country  formed  part  of  the  Empire 
of  Charlemagne.  By  the  treaty  of  Verdun  (843)  the  western  pro- 
vinces, Flanders  and  Artois,  became  part  of  France,  while  the 
eastern,  including  Brabant,  fell  to  the  share  of  Germany.  With 
the  development  of  the  feudal  system  various  hereditary  princi- 
palities were  established  here  as  elsewhere.  Thus  arose  the  states 
of  Flanders ,  Artois ,  Hainault ,  Namur ,  the  duchies  of  Brabant 
and  Limburg ,  the  principality  of  Liege ,  the  county  of  Antwerp, 


BELGIUM.  History,     xvii 

ami  the  lordship  of  Malines ,  which  at  a  later  period  rendered 
themselves  independent  of  their  powerful  neighbours.  Flanders, 
which  attained  to  great  prosperity  hy  means  of  its  manufactures 
and  commercial  enterprise,  carried  on  a  long-continued  struggle 
against  France,  the  result  of  which,  chiefly  through  the  strenuous 
exertions  of  the  cities  of  Ghent  and  Bruges,  was  the  establishment 
of  its  complete  independence.  On  the  extinction  of  the  male  line 
of  the  Counts  of  Flanders  in  1385,  Flanders  became  annexed 
to  Burgundy  by  the  marriage  of  Philip  the  Bold  with  a  daughter 
of  the  Flemish  princely  race,  and  by  the  beginning  of  the  loth 
cent,  most  of  the  other  states  were  also  united ,  by  means  of  later 
marriages  and  other  contracts,  inheritance,  etc.,  under  the  suprem- 
acy of  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy.  This  change  of  dynasty  was  most 
favourable  to  the  growth  of  art  in  the  Netherlands.  The  splendour- 
loving  Philip  the  Bold  (d.  1404)  employed  artists  of  every  kind, 
particularly  goldsmiths,  while  the  name  of  his  grandson  Philip  the 
Good  (1419-1467),  to  whom  Jan  van  Eyck  was  court-painter,  is 
inseparably  connected  with  the  first  bloom  of  Flemish  painting. 

In  1477  the  Netherlands  came  into  the  possession  of  the  House 
of  Hap  slur  g  by  the  marriage  oi  Mary  of  Burgundy,  the  daughter 
of  Charles  the  Bold,  the  last  Duke  of  Burgundy,  with  Maximilian, 
afterwards  Emperor  of  Germany.  The  children  of  this  marriage 
were  Philip  the  Handsome  (d,  1506),  Duke  of  Burgundy  and  King 
of  Castile  (in  right  of  his  wife,  Johanna  the  Mad),  and  Margaret  of 
Austria,  regent  of  the  Netherlands  from  1506  to  her  death  in  1530. 
Philip's  son,  Charles  V.,  who  was  born  at  Ghent  in  1500,  and  sub- 
sequently became  Emperor  of  Germany  and  King  of  Spain,  succeeded 
also  to  the  Netherlandish  provinces,  which  on  his  abdication  in  1555 
came  under  the  sway  of  his  son  Philip  11.  Thenceforward  the  Ne- 
therlands were  subject  to  Spanish  Supremacy.  Philip  appointed  his 
half-sister,  Margaret  of  Parma,  regent  of  the  Netherlands  (1559-07), 
and  selected  Granvella,  Bishop  of  Arras,  as  her  counsellor  and  as- 
sistant. Religious  agitations,  the  excessive  increase  of  the  number  of 
the  bishops  (1559),  the  burdensome  presence  of  the  Spanish  troops, 
and  other  grievances  led  to  numerous  tumults,  to  suppress  which 
tlie  king  dispatched  the  Duke  of  Alva  to  the  Netherlands  with  an 
array  of  20,000  men.  The  extreme  cruelty  with  which  Alva  fulfilled 
his  task  resulted  in  the  famous  revolt  of  the  United  Netherlands 
in  1568.  Success  was  achieved  by  the  northern  provinces  only, 
which  now  constitute  the  Kingdom  of  Holland,  whilst  the  south- 
ern districts ,  the  present  Kingdom  of  Belgium ,  after  protracted 
and  fierce  struggles,  still  continued  to  groan  under  the  oppressive 
yoke  of  the  Spaniards.  At  length,  under  the  regime  of  Alexander 
Farnese,  Duke  of  Parma  (1578-96),  the  third  governor  after  Alva, 
Belgium  also  succeeded  in  recovering  the  civic  liberties  in  behalf 
of  which  the  war  had  originally  broken  out. 

In  1598  the  'Spanish  Netherlands'  were  ceded  by  Philip  11.  as 
Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     lOth  Edit.  ]) 


xviii     History.  BELGIUM. 

a  lief  to  his  daughter  Clara  Isabella  Eugenia  on  the  occasion  of  her 
marriage  with  Albert,  Archduke  of  Austria,  the  Spanish  governor. 
Under  their  regime  the  wounds  which  the  country  had  suffered 
during  the  war  began  to  heal.  The  princely  pair  exerted  themselves 
in  every  way  to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  provinces  under  their 
care;  industry  and  commerce  once  more  flourished,  and  the  ad- 
ministration of  justice  was  reorganised.  Their  religious  zeal,  of  a 
strong  anti-reformation  type,  was  displayed  in  the  foundation  of 
new  monasteries,  colleges,  and  other  Roman  Catholic  institutions, 
but  at  the  same  time  materially  contributed  to  the  development  of 
art.  Numerous  churches,  in  the  gorgeous  but  somewhat  degraded 
taste  of  the  period,  were  built  and  decorated  with  brilliant  altar- 
pieces.  The  Archduke  and  his  wife,  moreover,  rendered  the  country 
an  important  service  by  securing  the  services  of  Rubens,  the  great- 
est of  Belgian  painters,  who  in  1609  had  made  up  his  mind  to 
settle  in  Italy.  They  appointed  him  their  court-painter,  permit- 
ting him  at  the  same  time  to  reside  at  Antwerp,  the  centre  of 
Flemish  art. 

After  Albert's  death  without  issue  (1621)  the  Netherlands  re- 
verted to  Spain,  which  during  the  wars  of  the  latter  half  of  the  17th 
cent,  was  obliged  to  cede  many  of  its  provinces  (Artois ,  Tbion- 
ville,  etc.)  to  France.  In  1714  these  provinces  were  awarded  by 
the  Peace  of  Rastadt  to  the  House  of  Austria. 

The  ^Austrian  Netherlands'  were  wisely  and  beneficently  govern- 
ed by  the  archdukes  of  Austria,  who  held  the  office  of  Stadtholder, 
and  for  a  brief  period  the  glorious  days  of  the  Burgundian  re'gimc 
appeared  to  have  returned.  The  governors  of  that  period,  especially 
under  the  Empress  Maria  Theresa,  are  still  gratefully  remembered 
by  the  Belgians.  The  opposition  which  the  reforms  of  the  Emp. 
Joseph  II.  encountered  at  length  [in  1789)  gave  rise  to  the  'Bra- 
bant Revolution',  headed  by  Van  der  Noot  and  Vonk,  but  the  inde- 
pendence thus  attained  lasted  for  a  single  year  only,  and  under 
Emp.  Leopold  II.  the  Austrians  again  took  possession  of  the  country. 

This  revolution,  however,  paved  the  way  for  the  interference  of 
the  French ,  whose  aid  had  been  invoked  by  the  ecclesiastical  and 
the  liberal  parties.  In  1794  the  whole  of  Belgium  was  occupied 
by  French  Republicans,  who  divided  it  into  nine  departments.  In 
1814  the  French  supremacy  was  finally  shaken  off. 

The  Treaty  of  London  ,  of  28th  June,  1814,  and  the  provisions 
of  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  of  7th  June,  1815,  united  Belgium  and 
Holland  under  the  name  of  the  Kingdom  of  the  Netherlands,  and 
elevated  William  of  Orange,  son  of  the  former  stadtholder  of  the 
Seven  Provinces ,  to  the  newly-constituted  throne.  Belgium  was 
again  severed  from  her  constrained  union  with  Holland  by  the 
Revolution  of  1830.  On  10th  Nov.  the  provisional  government 
summoned  a  national  congress,  by  which  the  Due  de  Nemours,  son 
of  Louis  Philippe,  was  invited  to  become  the  sovereign  of  Belgium. 


BELGroM.  Statistics,     xix 

The  Freiich  monarch  having  clecliued  the  dignity  in  behalf  of  his 
son,  Leopold  of  Saxe-Coburg  was  next  selected  by  the  congress,  and 
that  prince  accordingly  ascended  the  throne  on  21st  July,  1831. 

The  treaty  of  the  intervening  powers,  signed  at  London  on  15th 
Nov.,  1831,  by  the  representatives  of  the  five  great  powers  and  of 
Belgium ,  although  not  finally  recognised  by  the  exasperated  King 
of  Holland  till  1839,  constituted  the  Kingdom  of  Belgium  one  of 
the  independent  European  states ,  and  determined  the  boundaries 
and  the  relations  between  the  two  disunited  kingdoms. 

King  Leopold  II.,  bom  in  1835,  the  sou  of  Leopold  I.  (b.  1790, 
d.  1865)  and  of  Louise,  his  second  consort,  daughter  of  Louis  Phi- 
lippe (d.  1850),  ascended  the  throne  on  10th  Dec. ,  1865.  His 
Queen  is  Marie  Henriette,  daughter  of  the  late  Archduke  Joseph. 
The  royal  family  consists  of  the  Princesses  Louise  (b.  1858;  mar- 
ried in  1875  to  Prince  Philip  of  Saxe-Coburg)  ,  Stephanie  (b.  1864  ; 
married  in  1881  to  Rudolph,  Crown  Prince  of  Austria),  and  Clemen- 
tine (b.  1872).  Leopold,  the  only  son  (b.  1859),  died  at  the  age  of 
ten.  The  Count  of  Flanders  (_b.  1845),  who  is  married  to  a  German 
Princess,  is  the  King's  brother.  Charlotte,  the  widow  of  Maximilian, 
Emp.  of  Mexico  (d.  1867),  is  a  sister  of  Leopold  II. 

Extent.  The  extremelength  of  the  kingdom,  fromN.W.  toS.E., 
is  179  Engl.  M.,  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  110  M.,  area  11,373  sq.  M. 

Population  (in  1888)  6,030,043  (in  1831,  3,785,864  only),  of 
whom  about  2^/0  millions  are  Flemings,  and  about  2  millions  Wal- 
loons. The  Roman  Catholic  religion  is  greatly  predominant,  about 
15,000  only  of  the  population  being  Protestants,  and  3000  Jews; 
and  of  these  two  sects  more  than  half  are  resident  in  the  provinces 
of  Antwerp  and  Brabant. 

Pboyinces.  The  country  is  divided  into  nine  provinces ,  viz. 
Antwerp,  Brabant,  W.  Flanders,  E.  Flanders,  Hainault,  Liege, 
Limburg,  Luxembourg,  and  Namur.  The  density  of  population 
amounts  to  about  520  per  sq.  M.,  and  varies  from  873  per  sq.  M. 
in  Brabant  to  128  per  sq.  M.  in  Luxembourg.  Brabant,  E.  Flan- 
ders, and  Hainault,  are,  with  the  exception  of  some  of  the  manu- 
facturing districts  of  England,  among  the  most  densely  peopled 
districts  in  the  world. 

Army.  The  Belgian  army  is  destined  on  principle  only  for  the 
defence  of  the  country  and  of  the  neutrality  assured  to  it  by  the 
Treaty  of  London  (p.  xviii).  It  consists  of  103,860  men,  of  whom 
4247  are  officers,  and  in  time  of  peace,  of  43,400  men.  The  army 
is  composed  of  the  following  regiments:  1  Carabineers,  3  Riflemen, 
14  Infantry  of  the  line,  1  Grenadiers ;  2  Chasseurs-k-cheval,  4  Lan- 
cers, 2  Guides,  whose  celebrated  band  is  one  of  the  best  in  Europe ; 
4  Field  Artillery  [40  batteries  of  6  guns  each,  14  mounted),  4  Fortress 
Artillery ;  1  Engineers ;  1  Telegraph ,  and  1  Railway  company. 
There  are  also  several  companies  of  the  military  train  and  pontoniers. 
The  country  is  divided  into  four  military  districts,  each  containing 

b* 


XX     Statistics.  BELGIUM. 

lour  active  and  one  depot  division.  The  principal  military  depot 
is  at  Antwerp.  —  The  Garde  Civique,  or  militia,  consists  of  about 
31,000  men. 

The  national  colours,  adopted  in  1831,  are  red,  yellow,  and  black, 
placed  in  three  perpendicular  stripes,  which  were  the  colours  of 
the  ancient  Duchy  of  Brabant.  The  armorial  bearings  of  Belgium 
consist  of  the  Lion  of  Brabant,  with  the  motto  ^Vunion  fait  la  force'. 

In  1890  Belgium  possessed  51  merchant-ships,  including  42 
steamers,  of  an  aggregate  burden  of  70,222  tons;  and  in  1887,  344 
lishing-boats  of  12,190  tons,  with  about  1500  fishermen.  It  has 
no  navy. 

Characteristics.     Those  indicated  by  the  following  monkish 
lines  are  said  to  exist  to  some  extent  even  at  the  present  day:  — 
^Nohilibus  Bruxella  viris,  Antwerpia  nummis, 
Gandavum  laqueis,  formosis  Bruya  puellis, 
Lovanium  doctis,  gaudet  Mechlinia  stultis\ 

(Brussels  rejoices  in  noble  men,  Antwerp  in  money,  Ghent  in 
halters,  Bruges  in  pretty  girls,  Louvain  in  learned  men,  and 
Malines  in  fools.)  Halters  are  mentioned  in  connection  with  Ghent 
in  allusion  to  the  frequent  humiliations  to  which  its  turbulent 
citizens  were  subjected  by  their  sovereigns.  The  unenviable  repu- 
tation of  the  citizens  of  Malines  originated  in  the  story  that  they 
once  mistook  the  moon  shining  through  their  cathedral-tower  for 
a  conflagration,  and  endeavoured  to  extinguish  it  by  means  of  the 
tire-cngines. 


HOLLAND. 


I.    Plan  of  Tour. 

The  following  tonr  of  a  week  is  recommended  to  the  traveller 
whose  time  is  limited :  — 

Day 
From  London  to  Rotterdam  l>y  steamboat ;  or  from  Antwerp 

to  Rotterdam  by  railway 1 

Rotterdam,  and  thence  by  railway  to  the  Hague       ....      1 

To  Scheveningen ;  aAso  visit  '  T  Huis  ten  Bosch 1 

To  Leyden,  and  the  same  evening  to  Haarlem 1 

Haarlem ,  and  in  the  evening  to  Amsterdam 1 

Amsterdam,  and  Environs 1 

To  Utrecht  and  thence  by  railway  to  Arnhem 1 

A  hasty  glance  at  the  principal  places  in  Holland  may  thus 
be  obtained  in  a  week  or  ten  days,  but  the  traveller  whose  time 
permits  should  devote  a  longer  period  to  this  interesting  country. 
The  following  will  be  found  a  pleasant  and  instructive  tour  of  a 
fortnight:  —  Days 

From  London,  or  from  Antwerp,  to  Rotterdam     ....      1 

Rotterdam  and  Delft 1 

The  Hague  and  Scheveningen ...     2 

Leyden  and  Haarlem i^/-, 

Alkmaar ;  Helder,  and  back  to  Haarlem 3 

Amsterdam  and  Environs 3 

Utrecht    1 

Arnhem    .     .     .     •. 1 

II.   Money  and  Travelling  Expenses. 

Money.  The  Dutch  currency  consists  of  florins  fgulden  or 
guilder)  and  cents.  The  florin  (is.  S^/^d.)  contains  100  cents,  or 
20  stuivers,  or  10  duhbeltjes.  The  only  gold  coins  now  Issued  are 
pieces  of  10  fl.,  known  as  Gouten  Tientjes;  and  the  gold  pieces  of 
smaller  denomination  still  occasionally  met  with  cannot  be  ex- 
changed without  a  slight  loss.  The  silver  coins  are  pieces  of  2'/.2 
(ryksdaalder)  and  1  florin,  and  of  50,  25  (kwarije),  10  (dubbeltje), 
and  5  (stuiver)  cents.  A  stuiver,  or  5  cents,  is  worth  Id.  English. 
English,  French,  or  German  money  is  taken  at  the  hotels  and  rail- 
way-stations. The  average  exchange  for  a  Napoleon  is  9  fl.  40 
cents,  for  a  sovereign  113/4-12fl.,  for  a  20  mark  piece  11  fl.  80  cents. 

Expenses.  The  hotels  at  the  principal  towns  and  resorts  of  tra- 
vellers are  generally  clean  and  comfortable,  but  inferior  to  those 
of  Belgium  and  Germany.      In  some  respects  they  resemble  the 


xxil     Passports.  HOLLAND. 

hotels  in  England  more  than  those  in  other  parts  of  the  continent. 
The  usual  charge  for  a  bedroom  is  1-1 1/2  A- >  breakfast  (plain) 
50-80  cents,  table  d'hote' 2Y2-3  fl.,  attendance  1/2  fl.  —  Luncheon 
is  generally  taken  at  1,  dinner  between  5  and  7  o'clock.  Although,  as 
a  nation,  the  Dutch  are  enlightened  and  well-educated,  the  class 
with  whom  the  traveller  comes  in  contact  will  perhaps  impress  him 
unfavourably;  but  quite  as  much  real  comfort  and  civility  will  be 
met  with  in  Holland  as  in  any  other  part  of  the  continent. 

Fees  at  museums,  churches,  etc.,  should  not  exceed  2  fl.  per 
day.  Hotel  expenses  amount  to  7-8  fl.  daily,  and  travelling  and 
other  expenses  to  4-5  fl.  ,  so  that  the  total  cost  of  a  tour  in  Hol- 
land will  be  13-15  fl.  a  day.  The  'voyageur  en  garden'  may 
reduce  his  expenditure  to  one  half  of  this  sum  by  breakfasting  at 
the  cafes ,  dining  at  unpretending  restaurants ,  and  avoiding  the 
more  expensive  hotels.  It  may  also  be  remarked  that  the  steam- 
boats on  the  canals,  the  Rhine,  Meuse,  Yssel,  etc.,  afford  a  cheaper, 
and  often  pleasanter  mode  of  travelling  than  the  railways. 

in.    Passports,  Custom  House. 

Passports  may  be  dispensed  with  in  Holland,  as  in  Belgium, 
but  the  traveller  had  better  be  provided  with  one  if  he  contemplates 
a  prolonged  tour. 

Customhouse.  All  new  articles,  especially  if  not  wearing- 
apparel  ,  are  liable  to  pay  duty  according  to  their  value,  which 
must  be  declared  beforehand.  New  articles  not  previously  declared 
are  liable  to  confiscation. 

IV.    Language. 

A  slight  acquaintance  with  the  Dutch  language  will  contribute 
greatly  to  the  instruction  and  enjoyment  afforded  by  a  tour  in 
Holland.  German,  however,  is  very  generally  understood,  and 
English  and  French  are  spoken  at  all  the  best  hotels  and  other  prin- 
cipal resorts  of  travellers.  Those  who  have  a  knowledge  of  German, 
Danish ,  or  Swedish  will  recognise  the  identity  of  the  roots  of  the 
great  majority  of  the  words  in  these  languages  with  those  of  the 
Dutch.  The  language,  which  may  be  described  as  a  Lower  Frank- 
ish  dialect,  and  which  existed  in  a  written  form  as  early  as  the 
13th  century,  developed  its  individuality  more  strongly  during  the 
wars  of  independence  of  the  17th  century.  It  is  expressive  and 
highly  cultivated,  and  free  from  the  somewhat  vague  and  ungram- 
matical  character  which  stamps  Flemish  as  a  mere  patois.  Like 
other  languages  of  purely  Teutonic  origin,  it  has  admitted  a  consid- 
erable number  of  Romanic  words  to  the  rights  of  citizenship  : 
thus ,  kantoor  (comptoir) ,  kwartier  (quartier) ,  katoen  (coton), 
kastrol  (casserole) ,  rekwest  (requete) ,  gids  (guide),  etc.  Words  of 
foreign  origin ,  however ,  have  been  imported  from  motives  of  con- 
venience or  fashion,  rather  than  absolute  necessity.     The  language 


HOLLAND.  Language,     xxiii 

is  remarkably  rich  and  full  of  vital  energy ,  and  words  of  purely 
native  growtli  are  to  be  found  in  almost  every  brancb  of  science 
and  art.  Tlie  following  lines  from  two  popular  ballads  will  serve 
as  a  specimen  :  — 


Wij  leven  vrij,  vij  leven  blij 

Op  Neerlanda  dierbren  grond, 
Ontworsteld  aan  de  slavernij, 
Zijn  wij  door  eendrachtgroot  en  vrij  ; 
Hier    duldt   de   grond    geen    dwing- 
landij 
Waar  vrijheid  eeuwen  stond. 

(Brandt.) 

(Literal  translation:  'We  live  free, 
we  live  blithe,  on  Netherlands'  dear 
ground;  delivered  from  slavery,  we 
are  through  concord  great  and  free ; 
here  the  land  suffers  no  tyranny, 
where  freedom  has  subsisted  for 
ages'.) 


WienNeerlandschbloed  in  de  aderen 
vloeit, 

Van  vreemde  smetten  vrij, 
Wiens  hart  voorland  en  Koning  gloeit, 

Verhef  den  zang  als  wij  : 
Hij  stel  met  ons,  vereend  van  zin, 

Met  onbeklemde  borst, 
Het  godgevallig  feestlied  in 

Voor  Vaderland  en  Vorst. 

(Tollens.) 
(Literal  translation:  'Let  him,  in 
whose  veins  flows  Netherlandish 
blood,  free  from  foreign  stain,  and 
whose  heart  glows  for  country  and 
king,  raise  the  song  with  us,  united 
in  sentiment,  with  unburdened  breast, 
in  the  festal  song,  pleasing  to  God, 
for  Fatherland,  and  Sovereign'.) 

The  pronunciation  of  Dutch  somewhat  resembles  that  of  Ger- 
man ,  but  is  more  guttural ,  and  therefore  more  difficult  for  the 
English  student.  The  vowels  a,  e,  i,  o,  u  are  pronounced  as  in 
French ,  and  are  lengthened  ,  but  not  altered  in  sound  ,  by  being 
doubled  (thus  oo  =  o) ;  ei  and  ij,  or  y,  are  like  the  vowel  sound  in 
the  French  pays ;  au  and  ou  like  ow  in  now,  but  broader  (aw-oo)  ; 
eu  like  the  French  eu  or  the  German  6  ;  oe  like  the  English  oo  or 
the  German  u ;  ui  has  a  sound  fluctuating  between  oi  and  ow  (as  in 
now).  In  most  other  combinations  of  vowels  each  retains  its  usual 
sound.  All  the  consonants  are  pronounced  as  in  English,  except  g 
and  eft,  which  have  a  guttural  sound  like  the  ch  in  the  Scotch  word 
loch,  or  the  g  in  the  German  Tag ;  xo,  which  is  pronounced  like  v ; 
j  like  the  English  y  or  ee ;  and  v  like  f.  Final  n  is  often  dropped 
in  colloquial  speech  (e.g.  Leyde'  for  Leyden). 

The  definite  article  is  de  for  the  masculine  and  feminine,  and 
het  for  the  neuter;  genitive  des,  der,  des,  or  van  den,  van  de,  van 
het;  dative  den,  der,  den,  or  aan  den,  aan  de,  aan  het;  plural  for 
all  genders  de,  der,  den,  de. 

The  declension  of  substantives  and  adjectives  resembles  the 
German.  The  plural  of  substantives  is  formed  by  the  addition  of  s 
or  of  en  (dative  plural  always  en). 

The  pronouns  are  ik,  I ;  mij,  me,  to  me  ;  gij,  thou,  you ;  u,  thee, 
to  thee,  you,  to  you;  hij,  he;  hem,  him,  to  him;  het,  it;  tij,  she; 
haar,  her,  to  her;  zij,  they;  hun,  to  them;  hen,  them.  Mijn, 
mijne,  my;  uw,  uice,  thy,  your;  zijn,  zijne,  his;  haar,  hare,  her; 
onze,  ons,  our;  hun,  hunne,  their.  Wie,  who  (interrog.);  ivaf, 
what;  hoe,  how  ;  ivanneer,  when. 

Cardinal  numbers:  een,  twee,  drie,  vier,  vijf,  zes,  zeven,  acht, 
negen,  tien,  elf,  twaalf,  dertien,  veertien,  vijftien,  zestien,  zeven- 


xxiv     Language. 


HOLLAND. 


tien,  acTitien,  negentien ,  twintig,  een  en  twintig,  etc.,  dertig, 
veertig ,  vijftig,  zestig,  zeventig,  tachtig,  iiegentig,  honderd, 
duizend.  Ordinal  numbers:  de  eerste,  de  tweede,  de  derde,  de 
vierde,  achtste  (8th),  etc.,  de  twintigste,  de  tachtigste  (80th),  etc. 
Partitive  numbers :  een  half,  een  derde,  een  vierde,  etc. 

Auxiliary  verbs.  Hebben,  to  have ;  zijn  or  wezen,  to  be  ;  zullen, 
the  infinitive  of  shall  or  will  (future  sense) ;  warden,  to  he  (in  the 
formation  of  the  passive  voice). 

ik  heb  ik  ben 

gij  hebt  gij  zijt 

Mj,  zij  heeft         hij,  zij  is 

loij  hebben  unj  zijn 

gij  hebt  gij  zijt 

zij  hebben  zij  zijn 

gehad,  had.  geweest,  heen. 

The  conjugation  of   verhs    and 
closely  resemble  the  German. 

The  form  of  address  among  the  upper  classes  is  always  t/ (prop- 
erly Uwe  Edele,  Your  lordship,  Ital.  Vossignoria),  with  the  third 
person  singular,  and  often  with  the  addition  of  Mynheer.  A  mar- 
ried lady  is  addressed  as  Mevrouw  (pronounced  Mefrow),  a  young 
lady  as  Jonge  juffrouw.  Juffrouw  is  uniformly  used  in  addressing 
bar-maids,  female  attendants  in  shops,  etc.  —  Among  the  common 
people  gij  or  jij,  abbreviated  into  je,  is  used  with  the  second  per- 
son plural.  Je  is  also  made  use  of  in  familiar  speech  by  persons 
of  the  upper  ranks,  but  the  stranger  is  recommended  to  abide  by 
the  more  formal  mode  of  address. 


ik  zal 

ik  word 

gij  zult 

gij  wordt 

hij,  zij  zal 

hij,  zij  wordt 

xoij  zullen 

wij  worden 

gij  zult 

gij  wordt 

zij  zullen. 

zij  worden 

geworden,  been. 

[   the  construction  of  sentences 

Mag  ik  v  vragen,  hoe  ga  ik  naar .  .  ? 
Wat  is  de  kortste  weg  naar  .  .  ? 
Ga  regt  uit,  en  dan  de  eerste  straat 

links,  regts. 
Ik  dank  v,  mijnheer. 
Ik    zal    met    den   spoorxceg   (or 

simply  met  het  spoor)  reizen. 
Kruijer,  breng  de  bagage  naar  het 

spoor. 
Ik  geloof  het  is  te  laat. 
In  welke  klasse  gaat  gij  ? 
Ik  zal  een  kaartje  vor  de  tweede 

klas  nemen. 
Hoe  laat  is  het  ? 
Het  is  kwartier  voor  twee'en,  over 

drie'en,  halftien. 
De  trein  vertrekt  om  vijf  uur  en 

komt  om  tien  aan. 
Hoe  lang  houden  wij  hier  still'l 


May  I  ask  you  how  I  am  to  go  to  . .  ? 
Which  is  the  shortest  way  to .  .  ? 
Go  straight  on, and  then  by  the  first 

street  to  the  right,to  the  left. 
Thank  you.  Sir. 
I  shall  travel  by  railway. 

Porter,  take  the  luggage  to  the 

station. 
I  believe  it  is  too  late. 
In  which  class  will  you  go? 
I  shall  take  aticket  for  the  second 

class. 
What  o'clock  is  it? 
It  is  a  quarter  to  two,   a  quarter 

past  three,  half-past  nine. 
The  train  starts  at  5  o'clock  and 

arrives  at  ten. 
IIow  long  do  we  stop  here? 


HOLLAND. 


Language,     xxv 


Waar  zijn  xcij  nu  ? 
Dit  is  de  laatste  station. 
Koetmr,  breng  ons  naar  .  . 
Wacht ,   ik   inoet   nog  mijne  ha- 

gage  halen. 
Bij  het  hotel  .  .  .  ophouden. 
Hoeveel  is  de  vracht  ? 
Een  foot. 
Kan  ik  een  kamer  hehben  ?    met 

een  bed,  twee  bedden. 
Zeker,  mijnheer. 
Kellner,  xoat  hebt  gij  te  eten  ?  het 

ontbijt ,   het    middaggeten ,   het 

avondeten ;  drinken. 
Breng  mij  gebraden  rundvleesch, 

schapenbout,  kalfsborst,    ham, 

visch ,     aardappelen ,    groente 

(fem.),  brood,  boter,  vruchten. 

kaas,  wijn,   bier.      Mes,  vork, 

lepel,  glas,  bord,  eene  flesch. 
Jk  zal  morgen  om  zeven  ure  ver- 

trekken;  xrek  mij  om  zes. 
Hoeveel  bedraagt  onze  nota  ? 
Wat  moeten  wij  v  betalen  ? 
In  welke  straat  is  het  museum  ? 
Hoe  ver  is  het  van  hier? 
Wanneer  is  het  geopend? 
Dagelijks  kosteloos ,  van  tien  tot 

drie  uur,  behalve  — 
\S  xcoendags  en  's  zaturdags  tegen 

entreegeld. 
Zondag,  maandag,  dinsdag,  don- 

derdag,  vrijdag. 
Heden,  morgen,  gisteren. 
Ik  wensche  eenige  photographien 

te  koopen,  gezigten  van  .  .  .  , 

kopijen   naar    de    schilderijen 

van  .  .  . 
Laat  mij  zien  xvat  gij  hebt. 
Dat  is  niet  mooi. 
Wat  is  de  prijs  ? 
Wat  vraagt  gij  er  voor? 
Ik  heb  geen  klein   geld  bij  mij ; 

kunt  gij  mij  xoisselen'i 
Ja,  mijnheer;  neen,  mijnheer. 
Als  H  V  belie  ft. 
Mel  vragen  komt  men  te  Rome. 


Where  are  we  now? 
This  is  the  last  station. 
Coachman,  drive  iis  to  .  . . 
Wait,  1  must  fetch  my  luggage. 

To  stop  at  the  .  .  .  hotel. 

What  is  the  fare? 

A  fee. 

Can  1  have  a  room?  with  one  bed, 
with  two  beds. 

Certainly,  Sir. 

Waiter,  what  have  you  to  eat? 
breakfast,  dinner,  supper;  to 
drink. 

Bring  me  roast  beef,  leg  of  mut- 
ton, breast  of  veal,  ham,  tish, 
potatoes,  vegetables,  bread, 
butter,  fruit,  cheese,  wine, 
beer.  Knife,  fork,  spoon,  glass, 
plate,  bottle. 

I  shall  start  to  morrow  at  7 
o'clock  ;  wake  me  at  6. 

How  much  does  our  bill  come  to? 

What  must  we  pay  you? 

Ill  which  street  is  the  museum? 

Uow  far  is  it  from  here? 

When  is  it  open? 

Daily,  gratis,  from  ten  to  three, 
except  — 

Wednesdays  and  Saturdays  on 
payment. 

Sunday, Monday, Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day, Friday. 

To-day,  to-morrow,  yesterday. 

I  want  to  buy  some  photographs, 
views  of  ...  ,  copies  of  the 
paintings  of  .  .  . 

Let  me  see  what  you  have. 
That  is  not  pretty. 
What  is  the  price? 
What  do  you  ask  for  this? 
I  have  no  change  with  me;  can 
you  change  me  (some money)? 
Yes,  sir;  no,  sir. 
If  you  please. 
By  questioning  one  gets  to  Rome. 


xxvi     Railways.  HOLLAND. 

V.   Picture  Galleries  and  Collections. 

Picture  Galleries  and  Collections  are  generally  open  from 
10  a.m.  till  3  or  4  p.m.  In  all  collections  belonging  to  tlie  state 
gratuities  are  forbidden;  sticks  and  umbrellas  must  be  given  up 
at  the  door,  but  no  charge  is  made  for  taking  care  of  them.  These 
last  remarks  do  not  apply  to  municipal  collections.  The  usual 
gratuity  at  private  collections  is  1  fl. 

VI.     Kailways. 

Most  of  the  remarks  made  with  regard  to  Belgian  railways  apply 
to  the  Dutch  also,  except  that  the  fares  in  Holland  are  considerably 
higher.  In  1890  there  were  about  828  M.  of  government ,  and 
866  M.  of  private  lines  in  use.  Holland  also  possesses  an  exten- 
sive system  of  steam- tramways. 

The  best  railway,  steamboat,  and  diligence  time-tables  are 
contained  in  Van  Santen's  Officieele  Reisgids  voor  Nederland, 
published  monthly  (with  map,  price  25  cents).  The  hours  of  de- 
parture of  the  fast  trains  (1st  and  2nd  class)  are  printed  in  Italics; 
V.  (vertrek)  means  departure,  and  a,  (aankomst)  arrival.  To  change 
carriages  is  overstappen.  —  The  Vtrechter  Administratie  Reisgids 
(price  5  c.)  also  serves  most  purposes. 

VII.     Dutch  Characteristics. 

Towns.  Most  of  the  Dutch  towns ,  especially  those  in  Noord- 
Holland,  Zuid-Holland ,  Friesland,  and  Groningen,  as  well  as  the 
open  country,  are  intersected  in  every  direction  "by  caina\s  { Grachten), 
which  are  generally  enlivened  with  numerous  barges.  The  different 
quarters  of  the  towns  are  connected  by  means  of  drawbridges 
(ophaalbruggen),  now  being  replaced,  however,  by  swing-bridges 
(draaihruggen).  The  roads  and  streets  skirting  the  canals  are 
usually  planted  with  trees,  which  render  them  shady  and  picturesque. 

The  Dutch  houses  are  generally  lofty  and  narrow,  and  construct- 
ed of  red  brick  and  white  cement.  The  beams  occasionally  seen  pro- 
jecting from  the  gables  are  used  for  hoisting  up  goods  to  the  lofts, 
which  are  used  as  magazines.  The  windows  of  the  ground-floor 
being  generally  of  ample  dimensions,  and  polished  with  the 
scrupulous  care  which  characterises  the  Dutch  of  all  classes,  the 
houses  present  a  far  more  cheerful  and  prosperous  appearance  than 
is  usual  in  large  towns.  At  the  cellar-doors  in  the  side-streets, 
sign-boards  with  the  words  '■water  en  vuur  te  koop^  (water  and  fire 
to  sell)  are  frequently  observed.  At  these  humble  establishments 
boiling-water  and  red-hot  turf  are  sold  to  the  poorer  classes  for  the  pre- 
paration of  their  tea  or  coffee.  Many  of  the  houses  and  public  build- 
ings are  considerably  out  of  the  perpendicular,  a  circumstance 
due  to  the  soft  and  yielding  nature  of  the  ground  on  which  they  stand. 

In  many  Dutch  towns  the  custom  prevails  of  affixing  bulletins 
to  the  doors  of  houses  in  which  persons  are  sick,  in  order  that  their 


HOLLAND.  Charncteristka.     xxvii 

friends  may  be  apprised  of  the  state  of  their  health  without 
knocking  or  ringing.  At  Haarlem  and  Enkhiiizen  the  birth  of  a 
child  is  announced  by  means  of  a  small  placard,  adorned  with  red 
silk  and  lace,  and  the  friends  of  the  family  are  entertained,  on 
these  occasions  with  ^kandeeV  (a  kind  of  mulled  wine)  and 
^kaneel-koekjes'  (cinnamon-cakes).  Betrothals  are  celebrated  by  an 
unlimited  consumption  of  ^bruidsuiker'  ('bridal  sugar',  or  sweet 
cakes)  and  ^bruidstraneri'  ('bridal  tears',  as  the  spiced  wine  is 
figuratively  called). 

The  Chimes  in  the  towers  of  the  churches,  or  other  public  build- 
ings ,  proclaim  the  quarters  of  every  hour  by  playing  a  few  bars 
of  some  popular  or  operatic  air,  a  pleasing  custom,  of  which  how- 
ever the  effect  is  destroyed  by  too  frequent  repetition. 

The  ^ Gaper'  (gaper),  a  painted  Turk's  or  Moor's  head,  is  a 
customary  sign  for  druggists'  shops.  A  large  crown ,  decorated 
with  box-leaves  and  gilding,  suspended  beneath  the  Dutch  flag, 
is  an  indication  that  new  herrings  have  arrived  in  the  shop  thus 
adorned.  ^Tapperif  (tap-room),  or  ^hier  verkoopt  man  sterke 
dranken'  (strong  drinks  are  sold  here),  with  the  addition  of  ver- 
gunning  (licensed),  are  the  common  signs  for  taverns.  '■Dit  huis  is  te 
huur'  (this  house  is  to  hire,   or  let)  is  also  frequently  observed. 

Stoofjes,  or  foot-warmers,  are  universally  employed  by  the 
female  members  of  the  community ,  and  are  seen  in  great  numbers 
in  the  churches. 

The  Dutch  love  of  cleanliness  sometimes  amounts  almost  to  a 
monomania.  The  scrubbing,  washing,  and  polishing  which  most 
houses  undergo  once  every  week,  externally  as  well  as  internally, 
are  occasionally  somewhat  subversive  of  comfort.  Spiders  appear 
to  be  regarded  with  especial  aversion,  and  vermin  is  fortunately 
as  rare  as  cobwebs. 

Country  Houses  (buitenplaatsen ,  or  buitens).  Although  na- 
ture has  not  bestowed  her  charms  lavishly  on  Holland,  the  careful 
cultivation  of  the  fields,  gardens,  and  plantations  imparts  a  pictur- 
esque and  prosperous  appearance  to  the  country.  In  the  vicinity 
of  the  larger  cities ,  especially  on  the  Vecht  between  Utrecht  and 
Amsterdam ,  and  also  at  Amhem ,  Haarlem ,  etc. ,  numerous  villas 
and  country-seats  are  seen  near  the  roads  and  canals,  frequently 
enclosed  by  carefully  kept  gardens,  parks,  and  pleasure-grounds. 
These  paradises  of  the  Dutch  gentry  and  retired  merchants,  which 
are  too  often  built  in  bad  taste,  and  disfigured  with  paint  and 
stucco,  usually  bear  inscriptions  characteristic  of  the  sentiments  of 
their  proprietors,  and  breathing  a  spirit  of  repose  and  comfort. 
Thus  :  ^Lust  en  RusV  (pleasure  and  repose) ,  '  Wei  Tevreden'  (well 
content),  ^Mijn  Genoegen  (my  satisfaction),  '■Mijn  Lust  en  Leven' 
(my  pleasure  and  life),  '•Vriendschap  en  Gezelschap'  (friendship  and 
sociability),  ^Vreugde  bij  Frerfe' (joy  with  peace),  '■Groot  Genoeg' 
(large  enough),  '■Builen  Zorg'  (without  care).     Many  villas  rejoice 


xxviii     Dykes.  HOLLAND. 

in  much  lengthier  titles ,  which  perhaps  appear  peculiarly  appro- 
priate to  the  occupants,  hut  cannot  fail  to  excite  a  smile  when  read 
hy  strangers.  Few  of  these  country-houses  are  seen  from  the  rail- 
way, and  the  traveller  should,  therefore  endeavour  to  visit  some  of 
the  more  attractive  of  those  mentioned  in  the  following  pages. 

Gasthuisbn  and  IIofjes.  a  Gasthuis  is  a  hospital.  The  numher 
of  benevolent  institutions  in  Holland,  dating  from  earlier  centuries, 
is  remarkably  great.  Hofjes  are  groups  of  dwellings,  arranged  round  a 
court  or  yard,  and  occupied  as  almshouses  by  aged  persons.  Oudeman- 
ncn  and  Oudevrouwen  houses,  orphanages  maintained  by  the  various 
religious  denominations,  and  similar  institutions  are  very  numerous. 

The  Village  Feasts  (^^kermis\  literally  'church-mass',  i.  e.  the 
anniversary  of  the  foundation  of  the  church)  form  a  substitute  for 
the  Carnival  of  Roman  Catholic  countries,  but  the  gaieties  on  these 
occasions  too  frequently  degenerate  into  scenes  of  drunken  revelry. 
The  popular  refreshments  at  these  festivities  are  ^Hollands'  and 
^Poffertjes%  a  kind  of  cake  sold  in  the  booths  erected  for  the  purpose. 
The  picturesque  national  Costumes,  which  are  fast  disappearing 
tromthe  larger  towns,  are  seen  to  advantage  on  these  festive  occasions. 

Windmills  (molens)  are  a  characteristic  of  almost  every  Dutch 
landscape,  and  often  occupy  the  old  ramparts  and.  bastions  of  the 
towns,  which  they  appear  to  defend  with  their  gigantic  arms.  Many 
of  them  are  used  in  grinding  corn,  sawing  timber,  cutting  tobacco, 
manufacturing  paper,  etc.,  but  one  of  their  most  important  func- 
tions is  to  pump  up  the  superfluous  water  from  the  low  ground  to 
the  canals  which  conduct  it  to  the  sea.  The  highly-cultivated  state 
of  the  country  bears  testimony  to  the  efficiency  of  this  system  of 
drainage.  Many  of  the  windmills  are  of  vast  dimensions,  each 
sail  sometimes  exceeding  60  ft.  in  length. 

Dykes.  Holland ,  as  a  whole ,  is  probably  the  lowest  country 
in  the  world,  the  greater  part  of  it  lying  many  feet  below  the  sea- 
level.  The  safety  of  the  entire  kingdom  therefore  depends  upon  the 
dykes ,  or  embankments ,  by  which  the  encroachment  of  the  sea  is 
prevented.  In  many  places  these  vast  and  costly  structures  are 
equally  necessary  to  prevent  inundation  by  the  rivers,  the  beds 
of  which  are  gradually  raised  by  alluvial  deposits. 

The  first  care  of  the  constructor  of  dykes  is  to  lay  a  secure  and 
massive  foundation,  as  a  preliminary  to  which  the  ground  is 
stamped  or  compressed  in  order  to  increase  its  solidity.  The  dykes 
themselves  are  composed  of  earth ,  sand ,  and  mud ,  which  when 
thoroughly  consolidated  are  entirely  impervious  to  water.  The 
surface  is  then  covered  with  twigs  of  willows,  interwoven  with 
elaborate  care ,  the  interstices  of  which  are  filled  with  clay  so  as 
to  bind  the  whole  into  a  solid  mass.  The  willows,  which  are 
extensively  cultivated  for  the  purpose,  are  renewed  every  three  or 
four  years.     Many  of  the  dykes,  moreover,  are  planted  with  trees, 


HOLLAND.  Canals,     xxix 

the  roots  of  which  contribute  materially  to  the  consolidation  of  the 
structure.  Others  arc  provided  with  bulwarks  of  masonry,  or 
protected  by  stakes  against  the  violence  ofthevravcs,  vv-hile  the 
surface  is  covered  with  turf. 

The  most  gigantic  of  these  embankments  are  those  of  the  IIcl- 
der  (p.  341),  and  of  Westcapelle  on  the  W.  coast  of  the  island  of  AVal- 
chcren  (p.  245).  The  annual  cost  of  maintaining  the  latter  alone 
amounts  to  75,000  fl.  ,  while  the  total  expenditure  through- 
out Holland  for  works  of  this  description  is  estimated  at  six 
million  florins.  A  corps  of  engineers,  termed  Z>e  Waterstaat,  is 
occupied  exclusively  in  superintending  these  works.  The  con- 
stantly-imminent nature  of  the  danger  will  be  thoroughly  ap- 
preciated by  the  stranger,  if  he  stands  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  great 
dykes  at  high  tide,  and  hears  the  breakers  dashing  against  the  other 
side  of  the  barrier,  at  a  height  of  16-18  ft.  above  his  head.  The 
force  of  the  old  Dutch  proverb  'God  made  the  sea,  we  made  the 
shore',  will  also  be  apparent. 

Canals  intersect  the  country  in  every  direction.  They  serve  a 
threefold  purpose:  (1)  as  high-roads,  for  purposes  of  traffic  ;  (2)  as 
drains,  by  which  superfluous  water  is  removed  from  the  cultivated 
land;  (3)  as  enclosures  for  houses ,  fields,  and  gardens,  being  as 
commonly  used  for  this  purpose  in  Holland  as  walls  and  hedges  in 
other  countries.  The  Dutch  canals  differ  from  those  in  most  other 
countries  in  being  generally  broader,  but  variable  in  width,  while 
locks  are  rare,  as  the  level  of  the  water  is  nearly  always  the  same. 
Those  canals,  however,  which  are  connected  with  the  sea  are  closed 
at  their  extremities  by  massive  flood-gates,  to  prevent  the  en- 
croachment of  the  sea  when  its  level  is  higher  than  the  water  in 
the  canal. 

The  principal  canals  are  about  60  ft.  in  width,  and  6  ft.  in 
depth.  Not  only  the  surface  of  the  water,  but  the  bed  of  the  canal 
is  often  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  surrounding  country. 
The  three  most  important  works  of  this  kind  in  Holland  are  the 
great  North  Holland  Canal  [p.  336),  42  M.  in  length,  43  yds.  in 
width,  and  20  ft.  in  depth;  the  North  Sea  Canal  across  'Holland 
op  zyn  smaalst'  (p.  337),  connecting  Amsterdam  and  the  North 
Sea;  and  the  Willems-Canal  in  N.  Brabant. 

Polder  is  a  term  applied  to  a  morass  or  lake,  the  bed  of  which 
has  been  reclaimed  by  draining.  A  great  part  of  Holland  and 
Flanders  has  been  thus  reclaimed,  and  rendered  not  only  habit- 
able, but  extremely  valuable  for  agricultural  purposes. 

The  first  step  in  the  process  of  drainage  consists  in  enclosing  the 
marsh  with  a  dyke ,  to  prevent  the  admission  of  water  from  with- 
out. The  water  is  then  removed  by  means  of  water-wheels  of  pecu- 
liar construction,  formerly  driven  by  windmills,  now  by  steam-en- 
gines. The  marsh  or  lake  to  be  reclaimed  is  sometimes  too  deep  to 
admit  of  the  water  at  once  being  transferred  to  the  main  canals,  and 


XXX     Dunes.  HOLLAND. 

thus  carried  off.  In  these  cases  a  system  of  dykes,  one  within  the 
other,  and  each  provided  with  a  canal  on  its  exterior,  forms  an  as- 
cending series  of  levels,  from  the  lower  of  which  the  water  is  grad- 
ually transferred  to  the  higher,  and  thence  finally  into  the  principal 
channels.  An  excellent  example  of  this  is  seen  in  the  Schermer 
Pold€r(j^.  341),  where  four  different  levels  have  been  formed.  These 
canals,  although  separate  from  one  another,  are  all  provided  with 
means  of  communication,  by  which  if  necessary  the  water  from 
the  higher  can  be  discharged  into  the  lower. 

The  extraordinary  fertility  of  the  land  thus  reclaimed  is  chiefly 
accounted  for  by  the  fact,  that  superfluous  water  can  be  removed 
by  means  of  the  water-wheels  on  the  shortest  notice,  while  in  dry 
seasons  a  thorough  system  of  irrigation  is  constantly  available. 

The  appearance  of  these  polders  differs  materially  from  that  of 
the  rest  of  the  country.  The  speculators  by  whom  they  are  drained 
map  them  out  with  mathematical  precision  into  parcels ,  separated 
by  canals  and  rows  of  trees  at  right  angles,  and  furnished  with 
houses  of  precisely  uniform  construction,  all  affording  manifest 
indications  of  the  artificial  nature  of  the  ground.  The  polders 
often  lie  under  water  in  winter,  but  this  by  no  means  impairs 
the  fertility  of  the  soil,  provided  the  water  is  not  salt. 

The  principal  polders  are  the  Beemster,  Purmer,  Schermer 
(pp.  342,  341),  that  of  Haarlem  [p.  258),  reclaimed  in  1840-53, 
and  the  recently -drained  polder  of  the  Y  (p.  337).  It  is  now 
proposed  to  convert  the  whole  of  the  Zuidcr  Zee  into  a  polder, 
whereby  Holland  would  gain  an  additional  province  of  687  sq.  M. 
in  area  at  an  estimated  cost  of  120  million  florins,  or  about  34i. 
sterling  per  acre. 

Dunes,  or  downs,  are  the  low  sand-hills,  30-160  ft.  in  height, 
which  extend  along  the  coast  of  Holland  and  Flanders,  having 
been  thrown  up  by  the  action  of  the  wind  and  waves.  Those 
nearest  the  sea  are  of  very  unsubstantial  consistency,  and  being 
frequently  altered  in  shape  by  the  wind  they  afford  little  or  no  sup- 
port to  vegetable  life.  Between  the  central  downs  (the  highest  and 
broadest)  and  thoae  farther  inland ,  is  situated  an  almost  uninter- 
rupted tract  of  pasture  and  arable  land,  studded  with  cottages,  and 
producing  excellent  potatoes.  Most  of  the  dovnis  are  honeycombed 
with  rabbit-warrens,  which  often  afford  excellent  sport. 

In  order  to  prevent  the  sand  of  the  downs  from  covering  the 
adjacent  land,  they  are  annually  sown  with  the  plants  that  most 
readily  take  root  in  such  poor  soil,  especially  the  reed-grass  (Dutch, 
helm;  arundo  arenarea).  In  course  of  time  the  roots  spread  and 
entwine  in  every  direction,  thus  gradually  consolidating  the  sand. 
A  substratum  of  vegetable  soil  once  formed ,  the  arid  and  useless 
sand-hill  is  converted  into  a  smiling  and  fertile  agricultural  district, 
in  which  even  plantations  of  pines  appear  to  thrive. 


HOLLAND.  History,     xxxi 

Vin.     History  and  Statistics. 

The  earliest  inhabitants  of  the  district  at  the  cmhouchiircs  of 
the  Rhine  are  said  to  have  accompanied  the  Cimbri  and  Teutoncs 
in  their  expedition  against  Italy.  Several  banished  tribes  of  the 
Catti,  who  settled  in  the  deserted  island  of  Betuwe  (p.  357),  were 
conquered  by  the  Romans,  whose  supremacy  over  this  part  of  the 
country  continued  from  the  failure  of  the  great  rebellion  of  Clau- 
dius Civilis  till  the  end  of  the  4th  cent. ,  when  the  Salic  Franks, 
the  inhabitants  of  the  banks  of  theYssel,  took  possession  of  the  Be- 
tuwe, and  established  themselves  between  the  Schelde,  Meuse,  and 
Lower  Rhine.  The  district  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  Salic  Franks  was 
occupied  by  the  Frisians,  to  the  E.  of  whom  were  the  Saxons. 

The  supremacy  of  Charlemagne  extended  over  the  whole  of 
the  Netherlands.  Under  his-  successors  the  system  of  investing 
vassal-princes  with  the  land  gradually  developed  itself.  The  most 
powerful  of  these  were  the  Bishops  of  Utrecht,  the  Dukes  of  Ouel- 
ders,  and  the  Counts  of  Holland.  In  1274  Count  William  II.  of 
Holland  was  elected  German  Emperor  through  the  influence  of 
Pope  Innocent  IV.  In  1512  the  Dutch  provinces  were  enrolled  as 
a  part  of  the  Burgundian  section  of  the  Germanic  Empire. 

Under  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  the  whole  of  the  Netherlands  were 
united  (1543),  and  they  now  enjoyed  a  golden  era  of  prosperity,  in 
consequence  of  the  powerful  protection  accorded  by  that  monarch 
to  commerce  and  navigation.  Under  his  bigoted  son  and  successor 
Philip  II.  of  Spain,  after  the  Duke  of  Alva's  arrival  at  Brussels 
(1568),  began  that  memorable,  and  at  first  apparently-hopeless 
struggle  which  lasted  for  80  years,  and  terminated  in  the  re- 
cognition of  the  Northern  Netherlands  as  an  independent  state 
by  the  haughty  Spaniards,  and  the  establishment  of  the  powerful 
Dutfh  Republic. 

The  great  founder  of  Dutch  liberty  was  William  of  Nassau, 
'the  Taciturn',  Prince  of  Orange,  a  German  nobleman,  who  was  born 
atDillenburg  in  the  Duchy  of  Nassau  in  1533.  He  was  a  great  favour- 
ite of  the  Emperor  Charles  V. ,  who  appointed  him,  when  22  years 
of  age  only  ,  'stadtholder'  or  governor  of  the  provinces  of  Holland, 
Zealand .  and  Utrecht.  The  Low  Countries  having  come  into  the 
possession  of  the  Duke  of  Alva  ,  the  Spanish  Governor,  William 
retired  to  Dillenburg,  but  in  1572  was  invited  by  Holland  and  Zea- 
land to  take  the  command  of  their  troops  against  the  Spaniards. 
He  shortly  afterwards  captured  Middelburg,  and  succeeded  in 
raising  the  siege  of  the  distressed  town  of  Leyden.  On  29th  Jan., 
1579,  was  formed  the  famous  defensive  league  of  the  N.  Netherlands, 
known  as  the  Utrecht  Union.  William  was  shortly  afterwards  con- 
demned to  banishment  by  Philip  II.,  but  the  States  General  bravely 
defied  the  king's  authority,  and  in  1581  formally  threw  off  their 
allegiance  to  the  Spanish  crown.  On  10th' July,  1584,  William  fell 
by  the  hand  of  an  assassin  at  Delft  (p.  256),   very  shortly  before 


xxxii     History.  HOLLAND. 

the  day  on  wliit^h  the  States  iiitciuled  to  have  conferred  upon  him 
the  dignity  of  an  hereditary  count  of  Holland.  The  year  following 
his  death  his  son  Maurice  was  elected  stadtholder  in  his  stead. 

Under  his  presidency  (1585-1625)  the  power  and  wealth  of 
the  Republic  rapidly  increased ,  active  hostilities  were  frequently 
undertaken  against  the  Spaniards,  and  the  E.  Lidian  trading  com- 
pany was  formed  (1602).  Meanwhile,  however,  there  arose  serious 
dissensions  between  the  democratic  and  the  government  parties, 
which  were  greatly  aggravated  by  the  pernicious  theological  contro- 
versies of  the  Arminians  and  the  Gomarists  (p.  378).  Contrary  to 
the  sound  advice  of  the  stadtholder,  the  States  in  their  anxiety  for 
commercial  prosperity  concluded  a  twelve  years'  peace  with  Spain 
in  1G09.  Incensed  by  the  quarrels  which  now  ensued,  Maurice 
caused  the  influential  John  van  Oldenbarneveld  ,  the  pensionary  or 
chancellor  of  the  province  of  Holland,  then  in  his  72nd  year,  to  be 
arrested  and  condemned  to  death  by  a  partial  tribunal  in  1610 
(p.  262),  but  by  this  judicial  murder  he  did  not  succeed  in  intimid- 
ating his  refractory  subjects.  Maurice  died  in  1625,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  brother  Frederick  Henry  (1625-47),  under  whom 
the  unity  of  the  Republic  became  more  consolidated ,  and  the 
prosperity  of  the  States  reached  its  climax.  Both  by  land  and  by 
sea  they  triumphed  over  the  Spaniards  in  the  hostilities  which  now 
broke  out  afresh;  and  in  1628  the  gallant  admiral  Piet  Hein 
captured  the  Spanish  'silver  fleet'.  The  Dutch  commerce  of  that 
period  was  the  most  widely  extended  in  the  world. 

The  great  Dutch  navigators  Houtman,  Heemskerck,  Davis,  Schou- 
ten,  Lemaire,  Hartog,  Edels,  Schapenham,  Nuyt,  Vianen,  Caron,  Tas~ 
man,  De  Vries,  VanCampen,  and  Berkel,  explored  the  most  distant 
coasts  in  the  world  during  this  period,  while  theE.  Indian  factories, 
especially  that  of  Batavia,  which  had  been  established  in  1619, 
yielded  a  rich  harvest.  The  Dutch  school  of  painting  now  attained 
Its  culminating  point  (comp.  p.  lii),  and  the  sciences  were  also 
highly  cultivated  during  this  prosperous  epoch,  as  the  well-known 
names  of  Grotius,  Vossius,  Heinsius,  Gronovius,  etc.,  abundantly 
testify. 

Frederick  Henry  died  in  1647,  shortly  before  the  Peace  of 
Westphalia,  by  which  the  independence  of  the  United  States  of  the 
Netherlands  was  formally  recognised,  and  was  succeeded  by  his 
son  William,  then  in  his  21st  year. 

The  renewal  of  dissensions  between  the  States  and  the  stadt- 
holder determined  them,  on  the  early  death  of  this  prince  in  1650, 
not  to  elect  a  new  governor,  and  the  reins  of  government  were  now 
entrusted  to  the  distinguished  Grand  Pensionary  John  de  Witt ,  an 
able  and  energetic  senator. 

During  this  period  the  navigation  acts  were  passed  by  Crom- 
well, placing  restrictions  on  the  Dutch  trade,  and  thus  giving  rise 
to  the  war  which  called  into  activity  the  talents  of  Tromp ,  De 


HOLLAND.  History,     xxxiii 

Witt,  De  Ruyter,  and  other  naval  heroes ,  whose  memory  is  still 
justly  cherished  by  the  Dutch.  Within  the  brief  period  of  sixteen 
months  (1652-54)  no  fewer  than  twelve  great  naval  battles  were 
fought,  in  most  of  which  the  arms  of  the  Republic  were  crowned 
with  success.  By  the  peace  concluded  in  1654,  however,  the  States 
were  obliged  to  recognise  the  authority  of  the  navigation  acts.  In 
1665  a  war  with  England  again  broke  out,  during  which,  in  1667, 
De  Ruyter  even  entered  the  estuary  of  the  Thames  with  his  fleet, 
endangering  the  safety  of  London  itself,  to  the  great  consternation 
of  the  citizens.  Notwithstanding  this  success ,  the  peace  concluded 
shortly  afterwards  was  again  productive  of  little  benefit  to 
Holland. 

Meanwhile  Louis  XIV.  of  France  had  disclosed  his  designs 
against  the  Netherlands ,  and  had  taken  possession  of  the  part  be- 
longing to  Spain.  His  proceedings  against  Holland,  however,  were 
checked  for  a  time  by  the  triple  alliance  between  England,  Holland, 
and  Sweden ,  concluded  by  the  advice  of  the  Grand  Pensionary  de 
Witt.  In  1672,  after  the  dissolution  of  the  alliance,  Louis  renewed 
his  attacks  on  the  now  almost  defenceless  Union ,  whose  army 
had  been  entirely  neglected  since  the  death  of  Prince  William. 
Conde  and  Turenne  took  possession  of  the  provinces  of  Guelders, 
Over-Yssel,  and  Utrecht  almost  without  a  blow ,  while  that  of  Hol- 
land, with  its  capital  Amsterdam ,  only  succeeded  in  averting  the 
same  fate  by  means  of  an  artificially  cansed  inundation.  The  people, 
believing  that  they  had  been  betrayed  by  their  government,  now 
broke  out  into  a  rebellion  to  which  De  Witt  fell  a  victim  (p.  270), 
and  which  resulted  in  the  revival  of  the  office  of  stadtholder. 

Williain  HI.  (1672-1702),  the  last,  and  after  its  founder  great- 
est, scion  of  his  house,  was  accordingly  elected,  and  the  office  of 
stadtholder  declared  hereditary.  Under  his  auspices,  with  the  aid 
of  the  Elector  of  Brandenburg  and  the  Spanish  troops,  the  French 
were  defeated,  and  the  war  was  at  length  terminated  by  the  Peace 
of  Nymegen  in  1678. 

William  III.,  who  had  thus  been  instrumental  in  asserting  the 
liberties  of  Europe  against  the  usurping  encroachments  of  the 
'Grand  Monarque',  married  the  daughter  of  the  Duke  of  York, 
afterwards  King  James  II.  of  England.  In  1688  he  undertook  that 
bold  expedition  across  the  Channel  which  resulted  in  the  deliverance 
of  England  from  the  arbitrary  government  of  the  Stuarts  and  the 
final  establishment  of  constitutional  liberty  and  Protestantism  in 
Great  Britain.  The  following  year  he  was  elected  King  by  parlia- 
ment, retaining  at  the  same  time  the  office  of  stadtholder  of  the 
Netherlands.  In  his  new  position  he  continued  strenuously  to  oppose 
the  increasing  power  of  France.  The  united  fleets  of  England  and 
Holland  gained  a  decisive  victory  over  the  French  near  La  Hogue 
in  1692,  and  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyk  in  1697  Louis  was  compelled 
to  restore  a  considerable  part  of  his  conquests.    William  was  now 

Baeoeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     lOtb  Edit.  C 


xxxiv     History.  HOLLAND. 

estranged  from  his  native  country,  but  shortly  before  his  death, 
without  issue,  in  1702,  he  brought  about  the  'Great  Alliance'  which 
disputed  the  right  of  the  French  monarch  to  succeed  to  the  crown 
of  Spain. 

Following  the  example  of  the  States  General  (p.  xxxi),  the  live 
most  important  provinces  now  declared  the  office  of  Stadtholder 
abolished.  Their  foreign  policy,  however,  underwent  no  alteration 
on  this  account.  Prince  John  William  Friso  (d.  1711,  see  p.  175), 
stadtholder  of  Friesland  and  cousin  of  William  III,  succeeded  to 
the  command  of  the  army  of  the  Republic,  which  took  part  in  the 
war  of  the  Spanish  succession.  Under  his  presidency  the  power  of 
the  States  General  manifested  itself  anew.  The  flower  of  the  Dutch 
army  fell  at  the  bloody  victory  of  Malplaquet  (p.  180),  and  in  1714 
the  Peace  Congress  assembled  at  Utrecht,  on  Dutch  soil. 

The  events  of  the  18th  cent,  scarcely  require  special  mention. 
The  Republic  had  lost  its  prestige ,  and  in  the  continuing  alliance 
with  England  the  preponderating  power  of  the  latter  became  more 
and  more  marked.  When  the  French  entered  the  territory  of  the 
Republic  during  the  Austrian  war  of  succession ,  the  people  com- 
pelled the  States  to  appoint  William  IV.,  Prince  of  Orange,  the 
son  and  successor  of  John  William  Friso,  General  Stadtholder  over 
all  the  seven  provinces;  and  in  1748  this  dignity  was  once  more 
declared  hereditary.  A  revolution  which  broke  out  towards  the  close 
of  the  century  ended  in  the  expulsion  of  the  Stadtholder  Williajn  V. ; 
but  he  was  reinstated  in  his  office  by  the  Prussian  army,  which 
had  advanced  almost  unopposed  to  the  gates  of  Amsterdam  itself. 

The  importance  of  the  Republic  had  now  dwindled  to  a  mere 
shadow.  In  1795  the  French  Republicans ,  led  by  Dutch  exiles, 
took  possession  of  the  country ,  founded  the  ^Batnvian  Republic', 
and  at  the  same  time  caused  heavy  taxes  to  be  levied.  Schimmel- 
pennink,  an  able  statesman ,  was  created  president  of  the  new  Re- 
public, under  the  old  title  of  Grand  Pensionary,  but  in  1805  was 
compelled  to  yield  up  his  authority  to  Louis  Bonaparte,  who  had 
been  created  King  of  Holland  by  his  brother  Napoleon  I.  This 
semblance  of  independent  existence  came  to  an  end  in  1810, 
when  Napoleon  annexed  Holland  to  France ,  declaring  it  to  have 
been  formed  by  the  alluvial  deposits  of  French  rivers. 

At  length  in  November,  1813,  the  French  were  expelled  from 
Holland  by  the  Dutch  ,  aided  by  the  Russians  and  Prussians  ;  and 
the  Prince  of  Orange,  son  of  William  V. ,  the  last  stadtholder,  who 
died  in  exile  in  1806,  ascended  the  throne  of  Holland  as  an  in- 
dependent sovereign. 

By  the  Congress  of  Vienna  in  1815,  the  southern,  or  Belgian 
provinces  of  the  Netherlands,  were  united  with  the  northern  into  a 
single  Kingdom,  and  the  Prince  of  Orange  was  created  King  of  the 
Netherlands ,  under  the  title  of  William  I.  This  bond  of  union 
between  two  races  difiering  materially  in  language,  religion,  and 


HOLLAND.  Statistics,     xxxv 

character  was  severed  by  the  Belgian  Revolution  of  1830  (comp. 
p.  xviii).  Ten  years  later  William  I.  ahdicated  in  favour  of 
his  son  William  II.,  who  died  in  1849,  and  was  succeeded  by 
William  III.  [born  in  1817,  married  first  in  1839  to  Princess  Sophia 
of  Wurtemberg,  who  died  in  1877,  and  secondly  to  the  Princess 
Emma  of  Waldeck  in  1879).  At  his  death  (Nov.  23rd,  1890)  the 
male  line  of  the  house  of  Nassau-Orange  became  extinct.  He  was 
succeeded  by  his  daughter  Wilhelmina  (b.  1880),  during  whose 
minority  the  queen-mother  exercises  the  functions  of  regent. 

Area  "and  Population.  The  Kingdom  of  the  Nethevlands,  including 
the  Province  of  Limburg,  is  12,650  sq.  M.  in  area,  and  has  (1889)  a  popu- 
lation of  4,548,600  (2|5ths  Rom.  Cath. ,  81,000  Jew?).  Amsterdam  is  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom,  and  the  Hagiie  is  the  residence  of  the  kmg.  lue 
Netherland.s  are  divided  into  eleven  provinces:  N.  Brahant  (capital  Her- 
togenbosch),  Drenthe  (Assen),  Fnesland  (Leeuwarden),  Gueldevland  (ArnhemJ, 
Gvoningen  (Gronin-en),  N.  Holland  (Amsterdam),  .S^.  Holland  (Ha|'\6-'» 
Limburg  (Maastricht),  Over-Ytsel  (Zwolle),  Utrecht  (Utrecht),  Zeeland  {Mid- 
delbuTg). 

Revenuk.  The  annual  income  of  the  sovernment  (exclusive  of  the 
colonies)  amounted  in  1SS9  to  124,543,000  floriiis  (about  10,379,000;.  sterling), 
and  the  expenditure  to  125,338,200  fl.  The  budget  for  1891  estimated  the 
revenue  and  expenditure  at  126,.o36.025  fl.  and  135,930,839  fl.  The  national 
debt  in  1890  amounted  to  1,111,517,160  florins  (about  92,626,000i.). 

The  national  colours  are  red,  white,  and  blue,  placed  in  horizontal 
lines  (the  French  are  placed  vertically) ;  the  motto,  'Je  maintiendrai\ 

Colonies.  The  most  important  Dutch  colonies  in  the  E.  Indict  are 
Java  (capital  Batavia)  ,  Sumatra,  Borneo,  and  Celebes;  in  the  W.  Indies 
Surinam,  St.  Eustache,  and  Curacao;  to  which  must  be  added  a  number 
of  factories  .on  the  coast  of  Guinea.  The  total  area  of  these  possessions 
amounts  to  766.000  sq.  M.,  the  population  to  29-30  million  souls. 

Commerce.  The  merchant  fleet  of  Holland  in  1890  numbered  610 
vessels  (including  110  steamers),  of  an  aggregate  burden  of  215,000  tons. 
The  imports  in  18S9  amounted  to  1245  ^million ,  the  exports  to  1094 
million  florins. 

The  Army  consists  of  1  regiment  of  Grenadiers  and  Riflemen,  8  regi- 
ments of  Infantry,  3  regiments  of  Hussars,  3  regiments  of  Field-Artillery 
(18  batteries),  1  regiment  of  Horse  Artillery  (2  batteries),  and  4  regiments 
of  Fortress  Artillery  (40  companies) .  corps  of  the  military  train ,  ponto- 
niers  ,  'depot-battalions',  instruction  battalions,  etc.,  amounting  in  all  to 
64,400  men.  Beside  the  regular  army  there  are  the  'Schuttery.s\  a  kind  of 
national  guard,  and  the  Mandsturm",  or  militia.  —  The  army  in  the  colonies 
has  a  strength  of  about  32,000  men. 

The  Navy  consisted  in  18S9  of  117  vessels  of  war  (2Uron-clads),  com- 
manded by  three  vice-admirals,  3  rear-admirals  ('schouten-by-nacht'),  26 
captains,  35  commanders,  etc.,  and  manned  by  upwards  of  6900  hands. 


An  Historical  Sketch  of  Art  in  the  Netherlands. 

Bj'  Professor  Springer. 

The  traveller  who  would  explore  the  Netherlands  without  tak- 
ing account  of  the  Art  Treasnres  still  preserved  there,  heedlessly 
disregards  a  source  of  the  highest  gratification.  The  collections 
in  the  cities,  as  well  in  Belgium  as  in  Uolland,  can  boast  that 
they  include  many  of  the  most  remarkable  creations  of  the  art 
of  a  bygone  period:  works,  moreover,  whic-h  have  not  found 
their  way  hither  by  mere  accident,  but  grow  out  of  the  very  soil, 
so  to  speak,  of  these  Low  Countries,  and  have  their  raison  d'etre 
in  the  land ,  in  those  forms  and  fashions  which  to  this  day  repeat 
themselves  alike  in  the  native  landscape  and  in  tlie  habits  of  the 
people.  IIow  much  more  lively  is  the  impression  received  from 
works  of  art  when  seen  amidst  tlieir  natural  surroundings,  is  a 
matter  of  common  and  approved  experience.  Everything  that  is 
essentially  characteristic  in  a  picture,  atmosphere  and  light,  form, 
whether  natural  or  otherwise,  fashion  and  custom  ,  present  them- 
selves to  the  beholder.  The  sources  of  the  artist's  inspiration, 
all  that  served  to  feed  his  fancy,  are  clearly  manifest ;  while  many 
a  characteristic  incident,  which  would  otherwise  escape  observation 
or  remain  altogether  unintelligible,  receives  its  requisite  inter- 
pretation. It  is  true  that  the  aesthetic  value  of  individual  pictures 
may  be  always  in  all  places  recognised.  A  Titian  is  lustrous  even 
in  St.  Petersburg ;  Diirer's  incisive  pencil  asserts  itself  in  Madrid. 
Nevertheless  the  historical  significance  of  Art ,  the  necessary  cause 
of  her  development,  can  be  understood  by  those  only  who  will 
explore  the  scenes  which  witnessed  her  life's  first  dawn ,  particu- 
larly when  lapse  of  time  has  failed  materially  to  alter  the  character 
of  such  scenes. 

A  distinction  which  the  Netherlands  enjoy  in  common  with 
Italy  consists  in  the  opportunity  afforded  of  obtaining  the  best 
possible  insight  into  the  mysterious  quickening  of  the  artistic  spirit ; 
a  comprehensive  survey,  too,  of  art's  earliest  promise  and  maturity, 
and  her  identity  with  the  national  life.  That  continuity  and  many- 
sidedness  of  national  art,  which  in  Italy  is  so  pronounced,  theNether- 
lands  do  not,  however,  possess.  Twice  only  —  once  in  the  15th,  and 
once  in  the  17th  century  —  do  they  furnish  remarkable  material  for 
the  history  of  modern  art.  Earlier  centuries  reveal  a  poor  art  life, 
and  the  intervals  between  the  two  periods  referred  to  fail  to  make 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  AKT.  xxxvii 

any  profound  impression,  however  useful  they  may  hare  been  in  the 
development  of  the  personality  of  the  artist.  Both  in  the  15th  and 
in  the  17th  century  the  artistic  strength  of  the  country  devoted  itself 
to  painting.  The  art  of  the  Netherlands  owes  its  fame  to  the 
brilliant  achievements  of  its  painters. 

Churches.  During  the  centuries  of  the  Middle  Ages,  art  in  the 
Netherlands  did  not  by  any  means  keep  pace  with  the  advance  made 
in  Germany  and  France:  it  was  slow  to  move,  and  followed  in  th  > 
wake  first  of  German,  and  later  of  French  art.  The  number  of  Ko- 
MANESQUE  buildiugs  in  Belgian  territory — for  Holland  must  first 
be  noticed  in  connection  with  the  Gothic  era — is  not  great.  Of  these 
the  Cathedral  of  Toumai  (p.  59)  is  the  most  prominent  example. 
The  influence  of  lower  Rhenish  architecture(that  of  Cologne),  is  ex- 
hibited in  this  cathedral,  which,  in  respect  of  scale,  surpasses 
all  the  older  churches.  At  the  same  time  there  is  an  evident  approxi- 
mation to  the  French  style,  which,  after  the  13th  century,  pervaded 
the  entire  land.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  our  acquaintance  with 
the  history  of  this  church  is  so  imperfect.  Certain  it  is,  that  the 
present  edifice  was  begun  in  the  1 2th  century  and  completed  in  the  14th, 
—  When  in  the  adjacent  territory  of  Northern  ^France  the  Gothic 
Style  had  acquired  completeness ,  the  Netherlands  adopted  this 
model.  The  southern  portion  of  the  land  now  became,  in  the 
realm  of  architecture,  a  mere  province  of  France  ;  and  indeed  French 
influence  extended  gradually  to  politics  and  culture  also.  Stately 
Gothic  cathedrals  rear  themselves  in  the  more  considerable  Belgian 
towns.  With  the  church  of  St.  Gudule  in  Brussels  are  associated 
the  choir  of  the  cliurch  of  Notre  Dame  at  Bruges ,  St.  Bavon  at 
Ghent,  St.  Kombaut  at  A/aimes ,  the  Cathedral  of  Louvain,  and, 
lastly,  the  renowned  Cathedral  of  Antwerp,  where  a  lamentable 
want  of  structural  harmony  must  be  noted,  more  particularly 
in  the  spire,  whose  toppling  height  rather  astonishes  by  its 
audacity  than  delights  by  its  beauty.  Although  there  is  an  evident 
preference  for  lofty  towers  (the  double  tower  is  seldom  seen, 
but  rather  a  single  tower  in  advance  of  the  western  extremity), 
yet ,  as  a  rule ,  an  endeavour  to  secure  a  spacious  area  visibly 
determines  the  general  proportions ,  while  the  soaring  height 
and  slender  support  which  give  so  marked  a  character  to  the  in- 
teriors of  the  cathedrals  of  France  and  Germany,  are  but  slightly 
regarded.  Double  aisles  are  frequent  in  the  churches ;  but  the  height 
of  the  nave  seldom  exceeds  80  or  90  feet,  being  but  twice,  not  as 
was  usual  elsewhere,  three  times,  the  width.  The  Dutch  churches  are 
of  similar  construction.  Gothic  architecture  was  much  more  preva- 
lent in  Holland  than  is  generally  supposed;  Utrecht,  Amsterdam, 
Haarlem.  Ley  den ,  and  Rotterdam,  for  example,  possess  Gothic 
churches  on  a  grand  scale.  The  building  material,  however,  namely 
brick,  which  has  been  used  (the  Germans  learned  its  use  from  the 
Dutch) ,  gives  a  ponderous  appearance  to  these  edifices ;  while  the 


xxxviii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

wood  covering  wliicli  conceals  the  vaulted  roof,  the  absence  of  archi- 
tectural oruamcutatiou,  and,  finally,  change  in  the  forms  of  worship, 
have  done  niucli  to  destroy  their  original  beauty.  But  we  do  not 
visit  Holland  to  study  ecclesiastical  Gothic. 

Sbculak  Buildings.  Of  far  greater  interest  are  those  Gothic 
buildings  erected  for  secular  and  civic  purposes ,  in  which  Flan- 
ders is  especially  rich.  So  early  as  the  12th  century ,  mighty 
towers  to  serve  as  belfrys  were  erected  in  the  midst  of  fortified 
towns ,  for  the  purpose  of  mustering  the  citizens  by  sound  of  bell 
in  the  event  of  an  enemy's  approach  or  of  alarm  from  fire.  Attacdied 
to  the  belfries,  or  erected  separately,  are  spacious  Halles,  im- 
posing edifices,  used  for  the  display  of  those  products  of  Flemish 
industry  which  were  once  foremost  in  the  markets  of  the  world.  The 
Hotel  de  Ville  adorns  the  principal  square  of  tlie  town.  Its  facade 
generally  exhibits  the  wealth  of  decoration  belonging  to  the  later 
Gothic;  while,  in  the  interior,  sculptor  and  painter  found  occasion 
for  the  exercise  of  their  respective  arts.  The  belfries  at  Tournai 
and  Ghent,  the  'halles'  oi  Bruges  and  Ypres,  and  the  'hotels  de  ville' 
of  Bruges,  Brussels,  and  Louvain,  call  for  especial  notice  from  the 
traveller;  and,  in  case  he  should  be  interested  in  antiquated  do- 
mestic architecture,  he  will  find  a  rich  treat  provided  for  him  in 
Bruges  and  Antwerp,  once  chief  among  Hanseatic  towns.  These 
buildings  date  as  far  back  as  the  15th  and  16th  centuries,  a  time 
when  painting  in  the  Netherlands  bore  Its  first  fruits. 

Painting.  To  connect  these  early  efforts  with  the  power  and 
wealth  of  the  old  Hanseatic  League ,  and  to  find  in  the  sump- 
tuous habits  of  the  Burgundian  Princes  the  chief  impulse  to  the 
rapid  development  of  the  painter's  art  in  the  Netherlands,  is 
obviously  natural  and  reasonable.  How  the  eye  of  the  painter 
must  have  revelled  in  the  varied  costumes ,  in  the  manifold 
and  sharply  defined  types ,  whether  of  native  or  foreigner, 
which  he  encountered  in  the  motley  assemblage  that  thronged 
these  cities  of  the  League  I  We  may  well  conceive  the  artist's 
imagination  to  have  been  fascinated  by  the  wealth  of  colour 
presented  by  a  picture  composed  of  weather-beaten  mariners,  sturdy 
labourers,  burly  citizens,  and  sagacious  traders.  The  early  practice 
of  portrait-painting  may  also  be  attributed  to  the  spirit  prevailing 
in  the  Hanseatic  towns.  The  interest  in  this  branch  of  the  painter's 
art  originated  probably  in  the  self-complacency  which  naturally 
possesses  a  community  of  substantial  burghers ,  proud  of  their  vo- 
cations and  achievements.  Further,  the  Burgundian  Princes,  in  the 
gratification  of  their  love  of  splendour,  found,  as  trustworthy  accounts 
assure  us,  abundant  employment  for  the  artist  as  well  as  artizan. 
In  their  luxurious  court,  with  its  brilliant  retinue,  there  must  have 
been  robes  of  state,  glittering  weapons ,  costly  furniture,  besides 
courtly  manners,  to  captivate  the  eye  and  engage  the  attention  of 
the  painter.    Undoubted,   however,   as  the  effect  of  such  influences 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  xxxix 

was  in  giving  a  particular  direction  to  painting  in  the  Nether- 
lands, they  assuredly  were  not  the  source  from  which  it  sprung. 
It  was  not  until  the  painter's  art  was  emancdpated  from  the  tram- 
mels of  a  traditional  practice ,  that  it  found  favour  at  court,  and 
in  the  towns  of  the  League. 

Up  to  the  beginning  of  the  15th  century  Art  was  in  neither  a 
better  nor  worse  condition  than  in  adjacent  lands,  though  the  paint- 
ers of  Cologne  could  nndoubtedly  claim  pre-eminence.  Suc.h  spe- 
cimens of  wall-painting  in  the  Low  Countries  as  are  still  pre- 
served ,  show  an  entire  want  of  professional  training.  The  works  of 
the  miniature  painters,  however,  rank  higher.  Encouraged  by  com- 
missions from  French  Princes ,  they  were  elaborately  finished  ,  and 
both  in  colour  and  drawing  give  evidence  of  a  higher  education  in 
the  artists.  Sculpture,  too,  could  boast  of  sterling  work.  If  any 
general  inference  is  to  be  drawn  from  monumental  effigies  preserved 
in  Toumai,  and  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  loth  century,  a 
school  of  sculpture  existed  there,  which  successfully  aimed  at  a 
truthful  rendering  of  nature.  The  practice  of  painting  works  of 
sculpture  brought  the  sister  arts  into  more  intimate  relation.  So 
far,  however,  was  sculpture  in  advance,  that  painters  found  them- 
selves reduced  to  the  expedient  of  adopting  the  plastic  mode  of 
treatment  in  the  disposal  of  groups,  as  well  as  in  drawing  and  the 
treatment  of  drapery.  A  long  interval  elapsed  ere  painting  acquired 
a  style  of  its  own,  and  until  every  trace  of  the  plastic  relief  had  dis- 
appeared. Such  was  the  condition  of  the  painter's  art  in  tlie  Nether- 
lands, when  the  two  brothers  Van  Eyck  made  their  appearance ,  but 
we  are  not  in  a  position  to  indicate  their  immediate  predecessors,  nor 
to  determine  with  certainty  the  circumstances  of  their  early  training. 

The  two  brothers  Van  Eyck  were  natives  ofMaaseyck,  nearMas- 
tricht,  where  Hubert,  the  elder,  was  born  somewhere  about 
the  years  1360-70.  Wolfram  von  Eschenbach,  in  his  'Perze- 
val',  had  already  pronounced  the  painters  of  Maastricht  and  Cologne 
to  be  the  best  of  his  time,  but  how  painting  at  Maastricht  or  Limburg 
was  employed  in  Hubert's  time  we  know  not.  Absolutely  nothing 
is  known  of  the  course  of  Hubert's  early  training,  of  his  school,  or 
early  works.  About  the  year  1420,  we  find  him  settled  at  Ghent, 
where  a  guild  of  painters  had  already  long  existed,  along  with  his 
brother.  Whether  while  here  he  was  the  teaclier  or  the  taught, 
whetlier  the  local  influences  of  Ghent  first  modified  his  conceptions 
and  method,  or  whether  the  guild  in  Ghent  derived  new  light  from 
him,  cannot  be  determined.  We  know  of  only  one  work  from 
Hubert  van  Eyck's  hand,  indisputably  identified  as  his,  and  it  was 
painted  in  the  concluding  years  of  his  life ,  and  left  by  him  un- 
finished. This  is  the  gigantic  Altarpiece  which  Jodocus  Vyts  com- 
missioned him  to  paint  for  the  St.  Bavon  church  in  Ghent.  In  it  he 
still  clings  to  the  traditional  rules  of  composition  in  the  observance 
of  the  severely-symmetrical  proportions  of  an  architectural   struc- 


xl  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

turc.  Hilt  while  lie  fails  to  dispose  tlie  crowd  of  figures  in  separate 
groups,  he  succeeds  in  giving  to  the  heads  a  portrait-like  indi- 
viduality;  he  is  careful  to  render  the  varied  texture  of  the  draperies, 
and  in  modelling  the  nude  figure  he  closely  imitates  nature  in 
every  minute  particular.  For  example,  in  the  figure  of  Adam  (now 
deta(;hed  from  the  original  picture  aud  preserved  along  with  Eve  in 
the  Brussels  Museum,  p.  101),  even  the  short  hairs  ofthe  arms  and  legs 
are  carefully  elaborated.  But  the  most  surprising  innovation  is  in 
the  colouring,  to  which  he  gave  wonderful  force  and  harmony, 
using  it  to  give  effect  to  an  appearance  of  reality  almost  deceptive. 
The  old  belief  that  Hubert  invented  oil-painting  cannot  indeed  be 
unreservedly  accepted.  But,  although  oil  had  long  been  in  use  as  a 
vehicle,  Hubert's  merit  is  not  the  less  conspicuous.  He  is  still  the 
first  who  adapted  the  invention  to  the  purposes  of  art,  by  employing 
the  fluid  medium  for  the  more  subtle  blending  of  colours.  By  this 
means  he  so  far  facilitated  the  process  of  painting,  that  the  endea- 
vour to  give  a  faithful,  life-like  rendering  of  nature  was  com- 
pletely successful.  He  possessed  himself  of  the  means  by  which  alone 
effect  could  be  given  to  the  new  impulse  in  art.  We  can  have  no 
better  proof  of  the  importance  attached  to  this  new  method  of 
painting  introduced  by  Hubert,  than  in  the  sensation  it  made  in 
Italy,  where  the  invention  and  its  publication  were  invested  with 
the  attributes  of  romance. 

Hubert's  connection  with  his  brother  Jan  van  Eyck  (born  1381 
-1395)  is  involved  in  some  obscurity,  but  the  latter  came  to  be 
regarded  as  the  more  capable  ofthe  two.  Unjustly  so,  however,  as  the 
younger  brother  with  his  own  hand  bears  record,  in  an  inscription  on 
the  Altar-piece  at  Ghent,  in  these  words:  'Hubertus  —  major  quo 
nemo  repertus',  —  thus  showing  that  Hubert  was  at  least  his  equal. 
We  are,  at  the  same  time,  very  imperfectly  informed  of  Jan's  early 
training,  though  we  know  a  good  deal  about  his  public  career. 
While  Hubert,  it  would  appear,  found  favour  with  the  wealthy 
burghers  of  Ghent ,  Jan  took  service  in  the  courts,  first  of  John  of 
Bavaria,  afterwards  of  Philip  the  Good.  He  lived  for  some  years  at 
tlie  Hague,  later  in  Lille,  and  after  Hubert's  death  removed  to 
(Jhent,  in  order  to  finish  the  Altar-piece.  In  1432  he  migrated  to 
Bruges,  where  he  died  on  9th  July ,  1440,  about  fourteen  years 
after  his  brother.  His  peculiar  art  can  best  be  studied  in  Bruges; 
not  that  many  of  his  works  are  to  be  found  there,  but  that  the  self- 
same genius  still  pervades  the  place  which  inspired  the  school  of 
early  Flemish  painters.  Bruges  still  remains  outwardly  very 
much  what  it  was  in  the  16th  century.  The  old  houses  have  lost 
nothing  of  their  character  and  dignity  by  contact  with  the  newer 
buildings  which  have  sprung  up  in  their  midst;  while  ,  in  the  quiet 
of  the  comparatively-forsaken  thoroughfares,  there  is  nothing  to 
disturb  the  wanderer  in  quest  of  reminiscences  of  the  Bruges  of 
bygone  days.  Just  as  Nuremberg,  some  half-century  ago,  vividly  re- 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  xli 

called  the  age  ot'Diirer,  so  in  Bruges  a  perfectly  dear  conception  may 
still  be  had  of  the  period  which  witnessed  the  labours  of  the  Eycks 
and  Memling.  But,  in  any  (5ase ,  two  admirable  works  by  Jan  van 
Eyck  in  the  Academy  at  Bruges  afford  a  valuable  opportunity  of 
appreciating  his  art.  In  keeping  with  a  strong  determination 
towards  a  more  portrait-like  and  realistit;  conception  of  nature,  is 
the  endeavour,  observable  in  his  metliod,  after  a  greater  fulness  of 
outline  and  an  exact  rendering  of  textures.  The  direction  of  his 
aim  is  indicated  by  the  fact  of  his  having  painted  genre  pictures 
with  a  definite  motive  —  the  'Bath-room'  for  example. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  Jan  van  Eyck  had  pupils ;  but 
there  can  be  as  little  doubt  that  there  were  painters,  both  in  Ghent 
and  Bruges,  who  adopted  Van  Eyck's  method,  and  imitated  his 
style,  though  not  recognised  as  members  of  his  school.  Owing  to 
the  scanty  information  possessed  of  art  in  the  Netherlands  during 
the  15th  century,  nothing  can  be  conclusively  affirmed  on  the  sub- 
ject. Petrus  Cristus  may  be  mentioned  as  a  pupil  of  Jan  van  Eyck, 
at  Bruges ;  as  independent  masters  Gerard  van  der  Meire  and  Hugo 
van  der  Goes,  of  Ghent. 

The  people  were  as  averse  to  centralisation  in  the  domain  of 
art-training  as  in  the  conduct  of  state  affairs.  Wliile  the  Van  Eycks 
were  carrying  their  art  from  the  Valley  of  the  Meuse  to  Bruges  and 
Ghent,  another  great  artist  was  founding  a  school  of  painting  at 
Brussels.  Roger  van  dkrWkydkn  is  apparently  identical  with  that 
Royelet  de  la  Pasture  who,  in  1426,  worked  as  a  pupil  of  Robert 
Campin  atTournai,  and  in  1432  was  admitted  as  master  in  the  Paint- 
ers' guild.  We  find  Van  derWeyden  installed  as  painter  to  the  town 
of  Brussels  in  1436.  In  1450  he  appears  in  Rome,  as  the  first  north- 
ern painter  of  undisputed  fame  whose  name  was  honoured  by  the 
Italians,  uncompromising  though  he  was  in  adhering  to  the  practice 
of  his  native  art.  On  his  return  he  again  took  up  his  abode  in 
Brussels,  still  painting,  and  died  in  1464.  In  the  absence  of  any 
signature,  his  works  are  confounded  with  those  of  Jan  van  Eyck,  with 
whom  he  had  nothing  in  common ,  and  with  tliose  of  Memling,  who 
was  his  pupil.  They  are,  moreover,  scattered  far  and  near,  and  have 
to  be  sought  for  at  Madrid,  Rome,  Frankfort,  Munich,  Berlin,  etc. 
The  Museum  of  Antwerp,  however,  possesses  in  the  Seven  Sacra- 
ments one  of  the  most  prominent  works  of  this  master,  who  was 
peculiarly  successful  in  depicting  scenes  of  dramatic  interest 
( Descent  from  the  Cross) ;  too  often,  however,  his  power  of  animated 
expression  betrays  a  want  of  feeling  for  beauty  of  form ,  and  is 
continually  suggestive  of  tinted  reliefs. 

Hans  Memling,  the  pupil  of  Van  der  Weyden,  bears  the  least 
possible  resemblance  to  him.  According  to  a  legend,  which  in  earlier 
times  received  general  credence,  Memling,  having  been  wounded  at 
the  battle  of  Nancy,  was  carried  to  Bruges ,  where ,  in  gratitude  for 
the  tender  care  bestowed  upon  him  in  the  Hospital  of  St.  John,  he 


xlii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  AllT 

painted  iiumurous  pictures.  Tliis  story  may  be  placed  in  the  same 
category  as  tliose  of  DUrer's  malevolent  spouse,  and  of  the  licent- 
iousness of  the  laterj  Dutch  painters.  Memlin^  was  born  (in  Mainz) 
about  the  year  1430 ;  was,  in  1472.  already  actively  engaged  as  paint- 
er; in  1478  was  permanently  establislicd  in  Bruges,  a  well-to-do 
house  proprietor  in  the  Vlaminckdamm  (now  Rue  St.  George),  and 
died  Aug.  11th,  1495.  The  little  weknow  of  him  personally  is  in  some 
measure  compensated  for  by  the  great  number  ofhisworlis  still  extant. 
Bruges,  in  particular,  can  boast  of  possessing  literally  a  Memling 
museum.  In  the  Academy  is  the  Triptych  with  the  St.  Christopher, 
in  the  Hospital  of  St.  John  the  so-called  St.  John  Altar,  the  Ad- 
oration of  the  Magi,  the  Madonna  with  Martin  Nieuwenhoven,  the 
portrait  of  Catharine  Moreel,  and,  finally,  the  Ursula  casket,  the 
most  ornate  and  captivating  illustration  of  legendary  lore  bequeathed 
by  the  art  of  this  early  period.  In  Memling,  indeed,  it  may  be  said 
the  school  of  Van  Eyck  exhibits  its  higliest  attainments.  Pure  and 
luminous  colouring  is  combined  with  correct  drawing;  a  l<een  percep- 
tion of  Nature  with  a  coherent  sense  of  the  beautiful.  Crowe  and 
Cavalcaselle,  in  their  liistory  of  old  Flemish  Painters,  speak  of  Mem- 
ling as  a  lyric  bard,  and  if  his  forms  lack  ideality,  he  knows  how 
to  give  them  the  impress  of  a  winsome  beauty.  His  Madonnas,  whose 
golden  hair  falls  over  the  shoulders ,  or  is  gathered  up  in  luxuriant 
tresses,  combine  dignity  with  a  sainted  loveliness. 

Painting  flourished  in  the  15th  century  in  Holland  no  less  than 
in  the  southern  Netherlands,  though  the  earlier  masters,  such  as 
Albert  van  Omvater,  are  represented  but  by  few  works.  A  more  tangible 
personality  is  that  oiDierick  Bouts  {I'iQb-iATb),  who  removed  from 
Haarlem  toLouvain,  and  with  his  industrious  peiniil  announced  the 
fundamental  characteristic  of  Dutch  painting,  in  his  delicate  appre- 
ciation of  landscape  beauty.  Gerard  David,  of  Bruges  (1483-1523), 
in  the  S.,  and  Jacob  Kornelissen  or  Jacob  van  Oostzanen  (  ca.  1506- 
1530),  in  the  N.,  may  be  regarded  as  off"shoots  of  the  older  school. 
Both  are  flue  colourists  and  distinguished  for  the  tender  sweetness  of 
their  female  ligures.    Dramatic  conception  was  foreign  to  both. 

We  have,  indeed,  abundant  cause  to  deplore  the  ravages  of 
time,  wlieu  we  proceed  to  sum  up  the  number  of  authenticated 
old  Flemish  pictures  still  in  existence.  Scarcely,  indeed,  do  we 
possess  mementoes  of  ten  painters ,  such  as  enable  us  to  form  a 
really  distinct  and  vivid  conception  of  tlieir  character  as  artists ; 
yet  this  old  Netherlands  school  was  busy  for  eighty  years ;  nor  was  its 
activity  confined  to  Bruges  and  Ghent  alone,  but  was  shared  by  Ant- 
werp, Brussels,  and  in  the  North  by  Leyden  and  Haarlem.  One  im- 
portant cause  of  this  absence  of  reliable  accounts  lay  in  the  new 
direction  taken  by  the  Netherlands  school  of  painting  in  the  16th 
century,  whicdi  had  the  effect  of  depreciating  tlie  works  of  their 
predecessors  in  the  general  estimation,  and  finally  of  committing 
them  to  oblivion.    For  the  Netherlands,  like  the  rest  of  the  North, 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  xliii 

became  subject  to  the  spirit  of  the  Italian  Renaissance.  Under 
the  Buris;undian  rule,  literature  had  already  been  alienated  from  the 
popular  sympathies,  and  even  so  it  was  now  witli  pictorial  art.  Lu- 
cas van  Ley  den ,  and  Quinten  Massys,  of  Antwerp  (1466-1531), 
are  the  last  distinsruished  masters  who  were  not  carried  away  by 
this  current.  The  importance  of  the  former,  however,  is  chiefly  due 
to  his  admirable  engravings ;  while  Massys  sometimes  displays  a 
vigour  of  sentiment  at  variance  with  the  hitherto  habitual  concep- 
tion. Quinten  Massys  is,  indeed,  generally  regarded  as  the  connect- 
ing link  between  the  old  school  of  the  Van  Eyclis  and  Rubens. 

The  influence  of  the  Renaissance  reached  the  Netherlands,  as  it 
reached  Germany,  in  the  16th  century.  In  the  domains  of  Architec- 
ture and  Sculpture  the  ensuing  breach  with  previous  native  styles 
seems  to  have  been  less  abrupt  than  in  the  domain  of  painting.  The 
narrow  Gothic  house,  with  its  stepped  gable,  long  held  its  ground  ; 
and  although  Italian  modes  of  ornamentation  attained  the  ascendancy 
in  the  first  half  of  the  16th  century,  yet  in  the  second  half  the  na- 
tional irenius  powerfully  reasserted  itself  (Kollwork).  Among  the 
most  important  Renaissance  buildings  in  the  Netherlands  are  the 
Salm  Inn  at  Malines  (p.  134)  and  the  old  Maison  de  VAncien  Greffe 
at  Bruges  (p.  23).  The  Town  Halls  of  the  Hague,  Leyden,  and 
Amsterdam,  the  old  Fleshers'  Hail  at  Haarlem  (p.  286),  and  the 
Weiyh-House  at  Nymegen  (p.  371)  belong  to  the  later  period.  The 
Netherlands  are  peculiarly  rich  in  decorative  works  in  wood,  stone, 
and  brass.  The  monuments  of  Count  Engelbert  of  Nassau  and  his 
wife,  in  the  Groote  Kerk  at  Breda,  and  that  of  Archbishop  Williayn 
of  Cray,  in  the  church  of  the  Capucins  at  Enghien  (p.  70),  are  among 
the  finest  productions  of  Renaissance  art  in  the  north  of  Europe. 
The  chimney-pieces  (Bruges),  carved  stalls  (Dordredit),  and  altars 
(Hal)  must  also  not  be  forgotten.  The  Musee  Plantin  at  Antwerp 
contains  an  interesting  collection  of  Renaissance  furniture. 

The  Flemish  Painters  of  the  Renaissance  produce  a  less  favour- 
able impression.  The  Italian  forms  and  even  colours  found  no 
response  in  the  inmost  spirit  of  tlic  Flemish  painters,  and  tlie  result 
is  often  mere  frigid  prcttiness  or  artificial  idealisation.  Just  as  we 
prefer  the  popular  ballad  to  the  Latin  verse  of  our  school  days,  so  we 
prize  the  unadorned  Flemish  style  more  highly  than  unsuccessful 
imitations  of  the  Italian.  The  16th  century  was,  it  is  true,  of  a 
ditferent  way  of  thinking,  and  hailed  this  inroad  of  the  Renaissance 
upon  their  native  art  as  a  sign  of  progression  !  Antwerp  especially 
was  for  a  long  time  the  capital  of  art  in  the  Netherlands,  whence 
Duke  William  of  Bavaria,  as  well  as  the  Emperor  Rudolph  II.,  the 
two  most  enlightened  patrons  of  art  among  German  princes,  supplied 
their  requirements ;  while  Flemings,  too,  provided  for  England's 
needs.  It  is  evident,  then,  that  the  Netherlands  had  no  lack  of 
renown  nor  yet  of  highly-gifted  spirits,  whose  achievements,  had  a 
more  auspicious  fate  attended  them,  would  have  been  considerable. 


xliv  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

The  earlier  pictures  of  Jan  Uossnert^  suruamed  VnnMabeuijeoT  Mabuxe 
(flourished  1503-32),  please  by  force  of  their  masterly  modelling  and 
intense  colouring.  Bernard  varh  Orley  (1471-1541)  turned  his  resi- 
dence in  Rome  to  good  account  in  mastering  the  style  of  thellaphael- 
esque  school,  which  both  in  composition  and  drawing  he  reproduced 
with  considerable  cleverness.  If  we  can  praise  the  industry  only  of 
Michael  van  Coxie  or  Coxcyen  (1499-1592),  and  find  the  insipidity 
in  conception  and  the  exaggeration  of  form  in  the  work  of  Frans 
de  Vrieiidt,  surnamed  Moris  (1520-70),  simply  repulsive;  if,  again, 
Karel  van  Mander  is  famous  principally  for  his  literary  acquire- 
ments, and  Hubert  Goltzius  for  his  versatility,  still  one  branch  of 
the  art  remains  in  which  the  Flemings  achieved  and  sustained  a 
marked  success,  viz.  Poktraiture,  represented  in  the  IGth  century 
by  Jan  van  Scorel  or  Schooreel  (1495-1562),  Ant.  Moor  (1518- 
1588),  the  eUer  Peter  Pourbus  (1540-1580),  and  Geldorp.  The 
earliest  approaches  to  genre  and  landscape  painting  which  later  at- 
tained to  such  majestic  proportions  must  not  be  allowed  to  es(;ape 
observation.  Their  germs  are,  in  fact,  already  to  be  detected  in  the 
works  of  Van  Eyck.  The  principle  of  a  careful  study  of  Nature,  and 
delight  in  every  phase  of  life,  early  asserted  itself,  giving  to  every 
object,  however  insignificant,  however  obscure,  an  artistic  charm.  The 
painting  of  still  life,  the  pourtraying  of  those  humorous  incidents, 
never  wanting  in  domestic  experience,  which  served  to  illustrate  every- 
day life  among  the  people,  came  early  into  vogue,  though  at  first  dis- 
agreeably qualified  by  the  intermixture  of  the  grotesque  (in  the  shape 
of  Devils'  dances).  Old  Brueyhel  (see  below)  and  Vinck-Boons  had 
already  painted  rustic  subjects,  Patinir  of  Dinant  and  PaulBriJ,  land- 
scapes, with  richness  of  effect,  unilloelant  Savery  animal  picture*. 
Among  all  these  painters ,  the  members  of  the  family  of 
Brueyhel  or,  as  sometimes  written,  Breughel.,  attract  our  interest  most 
effectually.  They  not  only  afford  the  most  striking  example  of  that 
highly  propitious  practice,  the  hereditary  prosecution  of  the  same 
craft,  but  also  excellently  illustrate  the  transition  from  the  old  to 
the  new  style  of  art.  Peter  Brueghel  the  elder,  or  ' Peasant  Brueghel' 
(about  1525-69),  the  earliest  representative  of  this  race  of  paint- 
ers, travelled  in  Italy  for  the  purpose  of  studying  art,  but  re- 
mained faithful  to  the  subjects  and  treatment  of  his  native  land. 
His  figures  are  of  a  purely  Flemish  type,  while  his  delicate  colour- 
ing is  content  to  reveal  the  study  of  nature  in  northern  climes 
alone.  Of  his  two  sons  Peter  or  ^Hell-fire'  Brueghel  (1565-1637) 
and  Jan  or  ^Velvet'  Brueghel  (1568-1678),  the  latter,  who  acquir- 
ed his  surname  from  his  partiality  for  wearing  velvet,  is  the  more 
Important.  He  acquired  eminence  not  only  in  paying  homage  to 
the  widely-extended  national  taste  for  flower-pieces,  but  also  by 
his  landscapes,  which  are  distinguished  for  the  tender  bluish  tone 
of  their  middle  distance  and  background  (not,  however,  always 
true  to  nature),  and  for  the  marvellous  finish  of  detail  in  the  small 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  xlv 

figures  occupying  the  foreground.  The  sons  of  the  two  brothers  bore 
the  same  Christian  names  as  their  fathers,  followed  the  same  pro- 
fession, and  perpetuated  the  manner  of  the  Brueghels  down  to  the 
close  of  the  17th  century. 

All  previous  attainments,  however,  sink  into  insignificance  beside 
the  extraordinary  capacity  displayed  by  the  Flemish  artists  of  the  17th 
century.  The  eighty  years' revoltof  the  Dutch  against  Spanish  oppres- 
sion was  at  an  end.  Though  bleeiling  from  a  thousand  wounds,  the 
youthful  Republic  had  triumphantly  maintained  itself,  and  con- 
quered for  itself  virtual  recognition.  Two  worlds  separate  and  distinct 
from  one  another  were  here  compressed  into  their  narrow  confines. 
In  the  still  Spanish  Netherlands ,  forming  the  Southern  division, 
the  old  regime  in  politics  as  in  faith  remained  intact;  in  the  States 
General  of  Holland,  not  only  was  a  new  form  of  government  estab- 
lished, but  new  political  and  economical  views,  and  a  new  form  of 
faith,  were  in  the  ascendant.  Both  these  worlds  find  in  contemporary 
art  a  clearly- defined  expression.  The  art  of  Peter  Paul  Rubens 
serves  to  glorify  the  ancient  regime  and  the  ancient  faith .  and  was 
by  this  means  in  effect  assimilated  to  the  art  of  Italy,  and  beguiled 
by  the  mythological  ideal.  Dutch  art,  on  the  other  hand,  grew  out 
of  the  new  life  and  the  new  faith,  and  thus  reflects  the  provincialism 
and  civic  pretensions  which  now  becarae  the  characteristic  features  of 
the  body  politic.  Here  the  schools  of  Haarlem,  the  Hague,  Leyden, 
Delft,  and  Amsterdam,  possess  equal  merit.  Historical  pictures  are 
superseded  by  portrait  groups  of  the  civic  functionaries  and  rulers ; 
the  veil  of  mystery  is  withdrawn  from  the  representation  of  sacred 
subjects,  and,  in  its  place,  a  bare  matter-of-fact  and  modernised  treat- 
ment is  introdu'^ed ,  in  conformity  with  the  Protestant  views  of  tlie 
16th  and  17th  centuries,  which  regarded  the  Bible  in  a  very  different 
light  from  the  old  Church.  An  historical  notice  of  the  condition 
of  national  culture  would  not  in  itself  serve  to  throw  much  light 
on  the  relations  of  Flemish  and  Dutch  painting  of  the  17th  century, 
but  is ,  notwithstanding ,  not  altogether  superfluous.  Such  a  study 
would  be  the  means  of  putting  in  its  true  light,  the  contrast,  so 
often  overlooked,  between  Rubens  and  the  Dutchmen.  Irrespective 
of  much  superficial  resemblance  (e.  g.  a  similar  tone  of  colour) ,  the 
two  styles  have  entirely  different  sources  and  aims;  and  while  in 
the  school  of  Riibens  the  old  notions,  old  practices,  disappeared, 
that  art  began  to  reveal  itself  in  Holland  which  to  this  day  is  re- 
ceived witli  unqualified  approbation.  In  the  study  of  Rubens,  the 
mind  must  frequently  be  guided  by  reference  to  history ;  the  Dutch, 
on  the  other  hand,  we  hail  as  bone  of  our  bone,  and  flesh  of  our  flesh. 

Rubens. 
For  centuries  Cologne  and  Antwerp  have  contended  for  the  hon- 
our of  having  given  birth  to  the  greatest  of  Belgian  painters.    Lat- 
terly, however,  their  claims  have  been  surrendered  in  favour  of  the 


xlvi  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

little  town  of  Siegen ,  formerly  in  Nassau.  Our  artist's  father,  the 
Antwerp  justice  Johanne»  Rubens,  being  suspected  of  a  leaning  to- 
wards tlie  Reformation,  sought  refuge  in  flight  from  the  Spanish 
Inquisition,  and  joined  tlie  party  of  William  of  Orange.  Arrived 
at  the  Rhint),  where  the  emigrants  assembled,  he  formed  an  inti- 
macy with  Anna  of  Saxony,  the  crazy,  sensuous  wife  of  William,  of 
such  a  nature  as  furnished  the  Prince  with  sufficient  grounds  for  a 
divorce.  The  guilty  lover  was  consigned  in  1571  to  the  fortress 
Dillenburg.  His  wife,  Marie  Pypeling ,  who  had  followed  him 
into  exile,  was  Induced  by  the  severity  of  his  punishment  to 
forgive  the  offender  the  disgrace  he  had  brought  upon  her,  and 
to  join  him  at  Siegen,  the  place  assigned  to  him  in  1573  as  his 
abode.  Here  accordingly,  on  29th  June,  1577,  on  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul's  day,  Peter  Paul  Rubens  was  born.  In  the  following  year, 
Jolm  Rubens  received  permission  to  remove  to  Cologne.  It  is  con- 
ceivable that  his  lot  should  have  damped  his  ardour  for  service  with 
the  Princes  of  Orange,  and  encouraged  a  desire  to  be  reconciled  to 
the  Spanish  government.  John  Rubens,  however,  died  pending 
the  negotiations  which  ensued,  but  his  wife  Anally  made  her  peace 
with  the  Spanish  ecclesiastical  authorities,  returned  in  1588  to  Ant- 
werp ,  and  as  a  pledge  for  the  genuineness  of  her  conversion  placed 
her  son  in  a  Jesuit  school.  In  the  character  of  the  man,  however, 
there  was  nothing  Jesuitical ;  but  in  the  sensuous  splendour  of  his 
religious  pictures,  in  the  accessories  of  his  classical  representations, 
which  however  brilliant  are  often  superficial ,  it  is  easy  to  discern 
the  effects  of  his  training  in  the  then  flourishing  schools  of  the 
all  powerful  Jesuits. 

He  received  instruction  in  painting  from  Adam  van  Noort,  a 
thorough  master  of  his  art  as  we  are  assured,  though  no  authenticated 
works  of  liis  are  preserved,  and  from  Oiho  van  Veen,  commonly 
called  Otho  Vaenius,  court-painter  to  the  Dukes  of  Parma,  and  an  ar- 
tist more  distinguislied  for  erudition  than  force  of  imagination. 
The  Trinity  and  the  Holy  Family  with  the  Parrot  ('La  Vierge  an 
Perroquet")  in  Antwerp  Museum  are  reckoned  among  the  first  of 
Rubens's  works.  If  this  be  really  the  case  the  painter  must  have 
developed  some  of  his  peculiar  characteristics  at  a  surprisingly 
early  period ,  and  to  a  great  extent  have  acquired  his  style  before 
his  sojourn  in  Italy.  In  the  year  1600,  Rubens  undertook,  accord- 
ing to  the  then  prevailing  custom  with  artists,  who  looked  upon 
Italy  as  the  high  school  of  art,  a  journey  to  the  South.  The  follow- 
ing year  we  find  him  in  the  service  of  Duke  Vincenzo  Gonzaga,  in 
his  time  the  most  pleasure-loving,  most  enthusiastic  connoisseur  of 
all  princes.  Rubens  was  sent  in  160)5  to  Spain,  as  bearer  of  costly 
gifts,  in  the  shape  nuire  particularly  of  numcrons  pictures,  to  the 
coiirt  of  King  Philip  IIL  On  his  return  he  took  up  his  abode  suc- 
cessively in  Mantua,  Rome,  and  Genoa,  until  the  year  1608,  when 
he  returned  home. 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  xlvii 

Now  what  did  Rubens  bear  away  as  the  fruits  of  his  eight  years' 
residence  in  Italy?  It  is  of  no  great  moment  that  several  of  his 
pictures  savour  of  Italian  prototypes;  in  his  celebrated  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  we  see  a  reflection  of  Daniele  da  Volterra's  picture, 
in  the  Baptism  of  Christ  (lost),  of  which  the  original  drawing  is  pre- 
served, he  produces  single  figures  from  Michael  Angelo's  battle- 
cartoon  ;  the  Communion  of  St,  Francis  recalls  a  composition  of 
Annibale  Carracci ;  while  a  work  of  Titian  served  as  model  for  the 
battle  of  the  Amazons.  It  is  of  greater  importance  that  Rubens  was 
fortified  by  his  Italian  experiences  in  his  resolution  to  rely  mainly 
on  ideas  engendered  by  the  study  of  mythological-historical  subjects 
for  his  inspiration .  and  to  devote  his  art  to  their  illustration.  By 
this  means  he  establishes  a  bond  of  union  between  the  art  of  Italy 
and  that  of  the  North,  without  in  any  wise  sacrificing  his  individual- 
ity. Rather  does  a  comparison  with  contemporary  Italian  painters 
show  how  far  he  surpassed  them  in  virtue  of  his  spontaneous  sym- 
pathies and  the  abounding  force  of  his  character. 

Rubens,  married  in  1609  to  Isabella  Brandt,  and  again,  after  her 
death  ( 1626),  to  Helena  Fourment,  in  1630,  had  settled  in  Antwerp, 
where  he  led  an  un<'ommonly  active  life.  As  he  himself  assures  us, 
while  in  the  service  of  the  Regent  Albrecht  and  his  consort  Isabella, 
he  had  one  foot  always  in  the  stirrup,  making  repeated  trips  to 
London,  Paris,  and  Madrid,  and  devoting  as  much  of  his  time  to 
politics  as  to  art.  Certainly  the  varied  occupations  of  his  life  are  not 
to  be  discovered  in  the  astounding  number  of  his  works.  Nearly  a 
thousand  pictures,  many  of  them  of  colossal  dimensions,  bear  his 
name.  This  amazing  fertility  may  be  explained  by  the  circumstance 
that  the  numerous  pupils  who  frequented  his  workshop  were  em- 
ployed upoTi  liis  pictures,  and  that  he  himself  possessed  wonderful 
rapidity  ot  execution.  It  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  render  justice  to 
Rubens  in  all  cases,  partly  because  so  many  works  have  been  attri- 
buted to  him  with  which  he  had  very  little  to  do,  partly,  also,  be- 
cause his  rendering  of  form  frequently  took  directions  repugnant  to 
our  modern  notions.  Perhaps  in  his  manner  of  treating  the  female 
form  only  he  can  be  charged  with  flagrant  want  of  taste.  The  ca- 
pacity of  depicting  the  unsullied  purity  of  maiden  beauty  is  one  of 
the  attributes  in  an  artist  we  most  prize,  while ,  on  the  other  hand, 
we  naturally  recoil  from  the  spectacle  of  naked  females  disfigured 
by  the  labours  of  maternity.  Nevertheless,  we  must  not  forget  that 
in  these  coarse  unwieldy  shapes,  in  the  ponderous  limbs  and  violent 
action  of  these  female  forms  so  constantly  recurring  in  Rubens'  pic- 
tures, we  behold  the  direct  manifestation  of  such  impassioned 
energies  and  irrepressible  vitality  as  the  master  seeks  to  embody. 

Rubens'  earlier  pictures  have  this  marked  superiority  over  his 
later  works,  that  with  all  their  depth  and  warmth  of  colouring,  they 
preserve  a  certain  unity,  and  exhibit  a  broad  but  careful  finish.  The 
most  important  of  the  works  executed  soon  after  his  return  from 


xlviii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

Italy  is  unhappily  no  longer  in  the  possession  of  his  native  land, 
but  rests  in  the  Belvedere  collection  at  Vienna.  The  central  portion 
represents  St.  lldephons  receiving  a  rich  chasuble  from  the  Virgin  ; 
on  the  wings  are  portraits  of  the  donors ,  and  on  the  outside  the 
Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  or  the  Virgin  under  the  apple-tree. 
The  painter  is  here  seen  at  the  apex  of  his  artistic  excellence,  and 
never  subsequently  produced  so  perfect  a  work  in  so  lofty  a  style. 
So  long  as  Italian  models  were  fresh  in  his  mind  his  imagination 
and  his  sense  of  form  were  chastened  and  rertned,  but  at  a  later 
period  they  were  not  unfrequently  somewhat  too  exuberant.  Of 
similar  beauty  is  the  Doubting  Thomas  in  the  Museum  at  Antwerp, 
with  the  two  accompanying  portraits  of  Burgomaster  Rockox  and 
his  wife.  The  celebrated  Descent  from  the  Cross  in  the  Cathedral 
and  the  Crucifixion  in  the  Museum  (_'Le  Coup  de  Lance'}  are  also 
of  the  highest  value  as  undoubtedly  works  of  the  artist's  own  hand. 

In  his  later  large  ecclesiastical  paintings  Rubens  availed  liim- 
self  to  a  large  extent  of  the  assistance  of  his  pupils;  so  that  a  less 
exalted  idea  of  the  master  than  he  deserves  may  be  derived  froni 
the  study  of  these  pictures.  Another  circumstance  may  help  to  lead 
the  traveller  in  the  Netherlands  to  a  similar  conclusion.  Owing  to 
the  wide-spread  renown  of  the  artist,  his  works  did  not  all  remain  at 
home,  but  found  their  way,  even  in  his  lifetime,  far  and  wide, 
England,  Madrid,  Paris,  Munich,  Vienna,  and  St.  Petersburgh  con- 
tain, in  their  respective  galleries,  many  of  Rubens'  choicest  works. 
The  Antwerp  Museum,  however,  preserves  a  whole  series  of  valuable 
pictures  by  the  master,  thus  affording  an  opportunity  of  studying 
him  on  the  spot  where  he  achieved  greatness. 

Though,  however,  it  may  not  be  possible  to  find  unalloyed 
satisfaction  in  separate  works  of  the  master,  no  one  can  deny  that 
Rubens  is  a  figure  of  great  historical  importance.  This  is  owing  to 
the  fidelity,  with  which  he  has  adhered  to  the  traditions  of  the 
national  art,  to  the  power,  with  which  he  has  harmonised  these 
traditions  with  an  altered  condition  of  art  and  life,  and  to  the  uni- 
versality which  rendered  him  capable  of  working  in  every  depart- 
ment and  of  making  the  age  subservient  to  his  purposes.  He  is 
master  of  the  whole  range  of  artistic  material.  To  the  greatest  fer- 
tility in  the  domains  of  ecclesiastical  art  he  adds  an  intelligent  and 
enthusiastic  appreciation  of  the  ancient  gods  and  heroes.  He  looks 
upon  these  latter  more  with  the  eye  of  a  Virgil  than  of  a  Homer,  and 
often  depicts  them  in  the  spirit  of  an  orator  rather  than  in  that  of 
a  poet.  He  shows  that  he  has  most  affinity  for  the  fleshy  figures 
of  the  Bacchic  myths,  and  paints  tliem  witli  a  freshness  and  energy 
possessed  by  none  of  his  contemporaries.  His  brush  is  as  much  at 
home  in  important  historical  compositions  as  in  the  riclily-coloured 
allegories,  by  which  his  age  tried  to  make  up  to  itself  for  the  want 
of  genuine  poetic  sensibility.  He  paints  alike  portraits  and  land- 
scapes, the  battles  of  men  and  the  fighting  of  brutes,  the  gallant 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  xlix 

love-making  of  the  noble  and  the  coarse  pleasures  of  the  vulgar. 
This  versatility  is  peculiarly  his  own ,  although  he  possesses  cer- 
tain characteristics  iu  common  with  his  contemporaries,  just  as  he 
shares  with  them  the  same  national  atmosphere  and  the  same  tra- 
ditionary precepts. 

Rubens  occupied  this  field  along  with  several  other  painters. 
No  wonder,  then,  that  similar  characteristics  are  observable  in  his 
works  and  those  of  others ,  and  that  they  so  closely  resemble  one 
anotlier  as  occasionally  to  be  confounded.  Abraham  Janssens  (1587- 
16311  comes  very  near  to  Rubens  in  freedom  of  brush  and  in 
the  impassioned  action  of  his  figures.  Indeed  there  were  few  of 
Rubens'  contemporaries  who  escaped  his  influence,  pervading  as  it 
did  the  whole  field  of  art,  inspiring  in  an  especial  manner  the 
engraver.  The  most  notable  of  Antwerp  artists  who  were  contempo- 
raries of  Rubens  are  Gerard  Seghers  (IdOl-lGSl"),  Theodore  Rom- 
bouts  (1597-1637),  Gaspar  de  Grayer  (158'2-1669),  who  evinced 
in  his  quiet  compositions  a  charming  vein  of  thought,  and  Lucas 
van  Vden  (1595-1662),  who  painted  in  many  instances  the  land- 
scape in  the  background  of  Rubens'  pictures,  as  well  as  Frans 
Snyders  (1597-1657),  who  placed  his  extraordinary  talent  for  ani- 
mal painting  at  the  disposal  of  the  great  chief. 

Of  Rubens's  most  distinguished  disciple,  Anthony  Van  Dyck 
(born  at  Antwerp  1599,  died  in  London  1641),  owing  to  the 
shortness  of  his  sojourn  in  his  native  city,  few  important  works 
are  retained.  After  being  initiated  in  painting  first  by  Henry 
van  Balen,  later  by  Rubens,  he  visited  Italy  in  his  24th  year, 
where  Genoa  especially  fascinated  him ,  as  it  had  done  his  master 
before  him.  From  1626  to  1632  he  lived  at  Antwerp,  after  that 
in  London,  in  the  service  of  Charles  I.  It  was  not  only  the 
fashion  then  prevailing  in  aristocratic  circles  which  engaged  Van 
Dyck  in  portraiture.  Portraiture  made  the  strongest  appeal  to  his 
proclivities  as  an  artist.  He  does  not  shine  in  the  invention  of 
gorgeous  or  stirring  scenes ;  but  in  the  refined  and  animated  pour- 
trayal  of  distinguished  personages  in  particular ,  there  are  few  who 
are  his  peers.  His  portraits  are  not  only  instinct  with  life :  they 
fascinate  by  their  dignity  of  conception  and  grace  of  delineation, 
which,  without  sacrifice  of  truthfulness,  impart  a  certain  stateliness 
as  well  as  beauty  to  the  individual  represented.  In  what  a  rare 
degree  Van  Dyck  possessed  this  faculty  is  best  seen  in  his  admirable 
etchings  which  are  still  preserved,  and  in  which  he  presents  us  with 
an  invaluable  gallery  of  portraits  illustrative  of  the  17th  century. 

Of  the  remaining  pupils  of  Rubens ,  few  acquired  distinction  ; 
but,  owing  to  the  copiousness  of  their  works .  they  are  by  no  means 
unimportant.  They  occupy  in  the  department  of  religious  art  the  entire 
century.  From  Diepenbeeck,  Erasmus  Quellinus,  and  Gomelis  Schut, 
Jacob  Jordaexs  (1593-1673)  may  be  distinguished  by  a  marked 
individuality.   No  study  in  Italy  had  estranged  his  thoughts  from  his 

Baeokkek's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  d 


1  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

native  art.  His  profession  of  the  reformed  faith  made  him  unwilling 
to  contribute  to  the  exaltation  of  the  Church's  ideal,  so  he  applied 
himself  to  depicting  scenes  from  domestic  life  and  the  unrestrained 
mirth  of  popular  festivities,  and  thus  prepared  the  way  for  the  for- 
mation of  that  school  of  genre  painting,  in  which  the  art  of  the 
Netherlands  subsequently  acquired  its  chief  renown.  His  often- 
repeated  pictures  of  the  crazy  house-concert  ('as  the  old  ones  sang, 
so  will  the  youngsters  twitter'),  for  example,  are  well  known.  Jor- 
daens's  humour  is  unsophisticated ;  his  figures  are  as  devoid  of  grace, 
as  they  well  can  be ;  but  so  surpassing  is  the  quality  of  colour  in  his 
pictures  that  one  must  condone  the  vein  of  almost  coarse  vulgarity 
which  runs  through  very  many  of  them.  Pictures  by  him  at  the  Bosch, 
near  the  Hague,  which  celebrate  the  deeds  of  Prince  Frederick  Henry 
of  Orange ,  show  what  he  could  accomplish  as  an  historical  painter, 
and  belong  to  the  very  best  contributions  of  tlie  entire  scliool.  — 
Among  the  less-known  though  by  no  means  unimportant  pupils 
of  Rubens  is  Jan  van  den  Hoecke  (_1598-1651),  who  in  delineat- 
ing scenes  of  quiet  feeling  runs  his  master  very  hard  and,  indeed, 
is  not  unfrequently  mistaken  for  him. 

Even  upon  David  Tbniers  (1610-1685),  the  greatest  genre 
painter  to  whom  the  southern  Netherlands  have  given  birth,  Rubens 
exercised  an  enduring  influence.  The  fairs  and  rustic  scenes  whicli 
he  delighted  in  depicting ,  fascinate  not  only  by  the  spirit  of  con- 
viviality which  animates  them,  but  bear  witness  to  a  searching  ob- 
servation of  nature ;  and  the  subtlety  of  colouring  serves  of  itself  to 
invest  the  scenes  depicted  with  a  triie  poetic  charm.  In  gradation 
of  tone,  in  wondrous  harmony  of  colour,  in  artistic  combination,  he 
retains  an  undisputed  supremacy.  It  is  not  less  wonderful  how  he  can 
by  the  most  delicate  modifications  so  manipulate  a  dominant  tone  of 
colour  as  to  make  it  effective,  and  how  he  can  at  his  pleasure 
either  assert  or  dispense  with  the  most  marked  contrasts.  The 
pictures  of  his  fortieth  year,  where  the  peculiar  silvery  tone  first 
appears,  are  those  which  afford  the  best  insight  into  this  painter's 
method  and  style.  His  works  are  unfortunately  widely  scattered, 
and  are  rarely  to  be  met  with  in  his  native  country. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  majority  of  genre  painters  of  the 
southern  Netherlands.  The  neighbourhood  of  France  lured  away,  if 
not  the  painters  themselves,  certainly  many  of  their  works ;  nor  were 
either  wealth  or  love  of  art  at  this  time  sufficiently  diffused  in  Bel- 
gium to  allow  of  the  creations  of  native  art  being  retained  in  the 
land.  In  this  respect  painting  was  more  advantageously  circum- 
stanced in  Holland.  There  it  was  unmistakably  associated  with  the 
people,  and  to  this  day  indeed  is  identified  with  their  liabits  and 
predilections.  The  greater  number  as  well  as  the  best  of  its  pro- 
ductions are  still  retained  in  Holland,  coveted  though  they  be  by 
the  lovers  of  art  from  every  quarter ,  wlio  at  last  have  learned  to 
estimate  them  at  their  true  value. 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  li 

Rembrandt. 

The  grandeur  of  the  17th  century  school  of  Dutch  painters  has 
partially  obscured  the  excellencies  of  their  predecessors,  and  thrown 
into  the  shade  what  was  of  sterling  value  in  the  Dutch  school  be- 
fore Rembrandt's  time.  It  is  only  in  recent  times  that  research 
has  Succeeded  in  bringing  to  light  the  earlier  history  of  Dutch 
painting,  and  has  surrounded  Rembrandt,  who  hitherto  had  dazzled 
as  the  flash  of  a  meteor  in  the  horizon,  with  precursors  and  associates. 
Art  flourished  in  the  Dutch  towns  as  early  as  the  15th  century, 
but  it  would  be  more  than  difficult  to  separate  it  from  the  con- 
temporaneous art  of  Flanders  ;  indeed,  owing  to  the  similarity  of  the 
two  peoples,  no  very  essential  difference  could  have  existed.  When, 
accordingly,  at  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century,  painting  in  the 
North  became  Italianised,  the  Dutch  painters  succumbed  to  the 
prevailing  influence.  It  must  be  noted,  however,  that  the  parti- 
cular manner  which  most  nearly  responded  to  the  national  taste 
was  generally  preferred ,  and  most  successfully  imitated;  that  of 
Caravaggio,  for  example,  distinctly  coarse  as  it  is  in  its  broad  realism. 
After  Karel  van  Mander,  Heemskerck,  and  Bloemaert,  exponents 
of  a  more  imaginative  treatment,  came  Honthorst  (Gherardo  delta 
Notte)  and  his  associates ,  whose  art  was  entirely  based  upon  this 
realism.  These  painters  fearlessly  grapple  with  nature;  they  con- 
cern themselves  little  about  grace  and  beauty ;  they  do  not  despise 
what  is  vulgar  and  repulsive ,  if  only  it  supplies  life  and  energy. 
Lamp-light,  abounding  as  it  does  in  glaring  contrast,  served  ad- 
mirably to  enforce  startling  effects  and  an  impassioned  exuberance  of 
expression  often  bordering  upon  distortion,  and  was  freely  resorted 
to  with  evident  relish.  Along  with  Caravaggio,  another  artist  had 
considerable  influence  upon  the  Dutchmen,  viz.  Adam  Elshaimer 
(1578-1620),  of  Frankfort,  who,  however,  lived  and  died  in 
Rome.  He  painted  as  if  nature  were  only  to  be  seen  through  a  ca- 
mera obscura ;  but  his  pictures  are  harmonised  by  the  utmost  mi- 
nuteness and  indescribable  delicacy  of  finish ,  and  receive  their 
compensating  breadth  from  a  masterly  management  of  colour.  Last- 
man,  Poelenburg,  Goudt,  etc.,  learned  from  him. 

In  the  desperate  struggle  during  the  16th  century  with  the  two- 
fold yoke  of  Spain ,  artistic  enterprise  in  the  Netherlands  was  ne- 
cessarily crippled.  It  is  principally  owing  to  this  circumstance  that 
so  many  Dutch  painters  found  their  way  to  Italy  ,  and  there  com- 
pleted the  training  which  their  native  land ,  sorely  distracted  as  it 
was,  could  not  afford  them.  But  just  as  the  Netherlands  finally  came 
forth  from  their  eighty  years'  struggle  as  glorious  victors ,  and  in 
corresponding  measure  secured  for  themselves  wealth  and  politi- 
cal power,  while  their  antagonist,  Spain,  once  mistress  of  the  world, 
but  now  hopelessly  impoverished ,  subsided  into  political  insigni- 
ficance, Dutch  Art  received  during  and  at  the  conclusion  of  the  war 
its  noblest  impulse.  It  was  now  that  the  painters  of  the  Netherlands 

d* 


lii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

■were  enabled  correctly  to  discern  what,  amidst  all  tlie  surrounding 
wealth  of  material ,  was  best  suited  to  their  needs,  and  what  form  most 
strongly  ajjpcaled  to  them  ;  they  created,  in  a  word,  a  national  art.  The 
war  had  made  a  nation  of  heroes.  Stern  necessity  had  steeled  their 
courage  and  quickened  their  sense.  Brave  men,  experienced  in  war 
as  well  as  state  affairs  ,  pious  of  heart,  yet  joyous  withal ,  met  the 
eye  at  every  turn.  To  pourtray  these,  not  only  as  single  and  im- 
pressive personalities,  but  assembled  in  groups,  in  the  council- 
chamber,  or  sallying  forth  to  the  tilting  ground ,  or  engaged  in 
festive   celebrations ,    was  the  artist's  favorite  task. 

Pictures  of  a  peaceful,  happy  life,  the  charms  of  existence 
amidst  privacy  and  comfort,  were  doubly  attractive  in  a  time  so 
heavily  charged  with  fateful  events.  The  pleasurable  abandonment 
too,  whi(;h,  taking  no  thought  for  the  morrow,  is  content  to  enjoy 
the  passing  hour,  captivated  the  imagination  and  furnished  material 
for  numerous  paintings.  But  the  victorious  Netherlanders  not  only 
created  for  themselves  a  new  field  of  pictorial  matter,  in  which 
national  sentiment  should  find  expression ;  the  appropriate  form  of 
expression  was  also  provided.  Though  nearly  all  the  Dutch  painters 
are  great  colourists,  some  indispensable  attributes  of  the  artistic 
fac/Ulty  are  wholly  wanting  in  them.  The  single  figures  lack  ideal 
grace ,  the  groups  do  not  conform  to  the  rules  of  perspective.  On 
the  other  hand,  they  know  how  to  impart  such  an  artistic  charm  by 
means  of  colour  alone,  as  effectually  compensates  for  these  defects. 
The  use  of  the  word  'compensate',  however,  may  mislead.  It  must 
not  be  inferred  that  any  particular  means  of  expression  can  singly 
avail  in  painting.  The  Italians  are  guided  by  established  laws  in 
the  disposal  of  individual  figures ,  as  well  as  in  composition,  and 
rightly  so ;  for  these  laws  were  the  product  of  their  particular  cul- 
ture and  habits  of  mind.  With  equal  right,  however,  the  Dutch 
■painters  framed  for  themselves  rules  for  the  guidance  of  their  art 
iu  harmony  with  national  views  and  sentiments.  It  must  not  be 
sM-pposed  that  these  Dutchmen ,  after  they  had  carefully  completed 
the  drawing  of  a  picture,  were  content  to  overlay  their  pictures  with 
colour  for  the  sake  of  mere  beauty  of  effect.  They  thought,  they 
felt  in  colour,  and  composed  in  colour.  The  delicate  gradation  of 
colour,  the  disposal  of  light  and  shade  in  the  mass,  and  chiaroscuro, 
are  their  natural  means  of  expression.  It  is  a  matter  of  common 
observation  that  colour  beautifies  many  an  object  which  without  it 
would  be  utterly  insignificant,  and  to  such  objects  the  Dutch  artists 
knew  how  to  impart  an  ideal  charm  by  the  modulation  of  colour- 
tone.  Household  furniture,  for  example,  was  highly  valued  by 
the  Dutchmen.  In  its  carefully-ordered  splendour  and  subdued 
brightness  were  reflected  the  delights  of  peaceful  domestic  life. 
Applied  to  art-purposes ,  it  transcended  meaner  objects  only  in  so 
far  as  it  was  richer  in  colours  than  they:  and  thus  it  was  with 
scenes  from  every-day  life ,   which  were  in  like  manner  idealised 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  liii 

by  this  mysterious  witchery  of  colouring.  It  is  impossible  to  convey 
in  mere  words  any  adequate  idea  of  the  effect  of  colour  thus  wielded. 
The  eye  alone  can  comprehend  it,  and  has  its  opportunity  in  the 
study  of  the  various  galleries  of  Holland. 

The  ^RegenV  and  'Doelen'  pictures  are  among  the  most  conspicuous 
creations  of  the  Dutch  school  of  painters.  It  was  the  custom  for 
the  presidents  ( Regents)  of  the  various  corporations ,  public  and 
charitable  institutions,  to  place  in  the  guild-halls  and  shooting 
galleries  (^Doelen)  portraits  in  groups  of  members  of  the  various 
guilds,  especially  of  the  shooting  societies.  Among  the  earliest 
pictures  of  this  kind  are  the  Commemoration  Banquet  of  Bowmen, 
painted  \iy  Comelis  Anthonissen,  in  Amsterdam  (1533),  another  from 
the  same  hand  dated  1557,  and  one  by  Dirck  Jacobsz  painted  in 
1529  (the  last  two  in  the  Ryks  Museum);  but  it  was  later  than 
this  that  the  'Regent-pieces'  acquired  their  complete  artistic  signifi- 
cance. The  Haarlem  Museum  possesses  a  'Corporation-picture'  by 
Comelis  Comeliszoon ,  dating  from  1583,  and  four  similar  pieces 
by  Frans  Pieterszoon  Grebber ,  the  later  of  which  are  specially 
distinguished  by  the  freshness  of  their  colouring.  In  the  hospital 
of  Delft  is  a  'Regent-piece'  by  that  prolific  portrait-painter  Michael 
van  Mierevelt  (born  in  Delft.  1568;  died  1651),  who  has  been 
erroneously  described  as  painter  to  William  of  Orange  (assassinated 
1584).  It  is  a  so-called  anatomical  lecture,  in  the  painting  of  which 
Mierevelt's  son,  Peter,  took  part.  Jacob  Gerritsz  Cuypj,  founder  of 
the  painters'  guild  in  Dordrecht,  and  Paul  Moreelse,  a  pupil  of 
Mierevelt,  do  not  appear  to  have  attempted  the  execution  of  the 
'Regent'  pictures  proper;  the  greater  is  the  number  thereof  to  be 
ascribed  to  Thomas  (Theodore)  de  Keyset  and  Jan  van  Ravesteyn. 
Thomas  de  Keyser  was  born  probably  in  1595.  He  was  the  son  of 
an  architect  of  Amsterdam,  Hendrik  de  Keyser.  and  began  to  paint 
in  1619.  His  masterpieces  are  preserved  in  the  Ryks  Museum  in 
Amsterdam,  and  the  gallery  of  the  Hague.  In  the  town-hall  of  the 
Hague,  too,  his  contemporary,  Jan  van  Ravesteyn  can  best  be  stud- 
ied, in  his  fine  corporation-pieces  of  1616-18.  But  the  treatment 
of  the  'Regent'  pictures  and  portrait  groups  generally  was  brought 
to  its  highest  perfection  first  by  Frans  Hals,  of  Haarlem  (p.  Iviii).  and 
more  especially  by  that  greatest  of  all  the  painters  of  the  north,  Rem- 
brandt. 

Among  the  most  important  portrait-painters  of  Amsterdam  in 
the  pre-Rembrandt  period  are  Dirck  Barentsz  (1534-92),  a  pupil  of 
Titian  ;  Comelis  Ketel  (1548-1616);  Aert  Pietersen  (1550-1612;  son 
of  Pieter  Aertsen),  of  whose  works  the  Ryks  Museum  possesses 
large  examples  dating  from  1599  and  1603;  Comelis  van  der  Voort 
(1576-16*24),  highly  thought  of  by  his  contemporaries;  Werner  van 

i  The  termination  'szen'  or  'szoon\  abbreviated  'sz',  which  occurs  so 
frequently  in  Flemish  names,  signifles  son;  thus  Gerritsz  =  son  of  Ger- 
hard, Ilarmenxz  =  son  of  Harmen   or  Herman. 


liv  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

Valckert,  a  pupil  of  Goltzius,  who  painted  in  1612-30  at  Haarlem 
and  at  Amsterdam;  and  Nicolaes  Elias  (1590-1650),  master  of 
Van  der  Heist,  whose  fine  corporation-pieces  are  now  seen  to  ad- 
vantage in  the  Ryks  Museum. 

Slandered  and  grossly  abused  as  Rembrandt  has  been  by  dilet- 
tanti scribes  of  the  18th  century,  the  enthusiastic  eulogium  bestowed 
upon  him  by  the  youthful  Goethe  must  be  noticed  as  an  ex- 
ceptional tribute.  It  is  only  in  quite  recent  times  that  the  research- 
es of  Dutch  savants,  particularly  of  Scheltema ,  Vosmaerf,  De 
Roever,  andBredius,  undertaken  in  a  spirit  of  affectionate  devotion, 
have  vindicated  the  truth  concerning  him.  Kembrandt  Harmensz 
van  Ryn,  the  son  of  a  miller  of  Leyden,  was  born  probably  in  1607. 
That  he  first  saw  light  in  his  father's  mill  is  a  story  for  which  there 
is  as  little  foundation  as  that  he  first  studied  art  amongst  his  father's 
flour  sacks.  Jacob  Swanenburgh,  who  had  studied  in  Italy,  and  was 
married  to  a  Neapolitan,  d^n^  Peter  Lastman  were  his  first  instructors. 
His  earliest  recognised  work  bears  the  date  1627;  he  removed  to 
Amsterdam  at  the  end  of  1631.  Amsterdam  had  gradually  outstripp- 
ed the  other  towns  of  the  Republic,  and  had  become  virtually  its 
capital,  ascendant  not  only  in  the  domain  of  politics,  but  prescribing 
also  the  direction  to  be  given  to  the  study  of  art.  A  new  and  stately 
architecture,  which  subsequently  exercised  extraordinary  influence 
in  Germany,  testifies  to  the  splendour  of  the  town  at  that  period. 
Vondel,  Huygens,  and  Hooft  represent  the  mnse  of  Poetry,  while 
numerous  engravers  and  painters,  of  whom  several  connected  them- 
selves later  with  Rembrandt,  such  as  S.  Koninckj  Livens,  and 
Van  Vliet,  found  employment  in  Amsterdam. 

Rembrandt  very  soon  made  himself  famous  as  an  artist ;  fortune 
smiled  upon  him,  too,  in  his  love  affairs.  From  the  year  1633  the 
face  of  a  good-tempered,  handsome  woman  appears  from  time  to  time 
in  his  pictures.  This  is  Saskia  van  TJlenburgh,  the  daughter  of  a 
Friesland  lawyer,  whom  he  brought  home  as  his  bride  in  1634.  The 
numerous  portraits  of  Saskia ,  painted  by  the  great  artist  with  evi- 
dent gusto,  have  familiarised  us  with  her  countenance ;  the  best  are 
those  in  the  galleries  of  Dresden  and  Cassel.  That  in  the  Antwerp 
Museum  is  either  a  copy,  or  was  painted  from  memory.  After 
Saskia's  death  (1642),  Rembrandt's  private  affairs  took  a  turn  for  the 
worse.  The  great  financial  collapse,  which  since  1653  had  continued 
in  Amsterdam,  bringing  wide-spread  and  ruinous  disaster  upon  the 
community,  did  not  suffer  our  painter  to  escape.  He  was  declared 
bankrupt  in  1656,  and  an  inventory  of  Ms  effects  was  taken  by  the 
Commissioners  of  the  'desolate-boedelkamer',  who  brought  them  to 
the  hammer  in  the  following  year.  This  inventory  is  still  preserved, 
and  is  an  all-sufficient  reply  to  those  who  maintained  that  Rem- 
brandt was  destitute  of  refined  tastes.     The  walls  of  his  spacious 

t  Rembrandt ,  sa  vie  et  ses  CEuvres ,  par  C.  Vosmaer.  2nd  ed.  The 
Hague,  1877. 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  Iv 

apartments  were  covered  not  only  witli  works  from  his  own  and  his 
pupils'  hands,  but  such  Italian  masters  as  Palma,  Giorgione,  etc., 
were  likewise  represented.  He  also  possessed  numerous  antique 
busts  and  miscellaneous  curiosities ,  as  well  as  a  choice  collection 
of  engravings.  Besides  all  this,  the  confidential  intercourse  which 
he  maintained  with  Huygens  and  Jan  Six  sufficiently  belies  the 
opinion  once  current  as  to  Kembrandt's  low-lived  habits.  Rembrandt 
did  not  marry  a  second  time,  but  contented  himself  henceforth  with 
the  faithful  affection  and  ministrations  of  his  servant  Hendrickje 
Stoffels  (d.  1661).  The  close  of  his  life  found  him  poor  and  living 
in  complete  retirement;,  still  busy  notwithstanding,  and  still  cap- 
able of  laughter,  as  a  portrait  of  himself  from  his  own  hand 
(painted  about  1668),  and  now  in  a  private  collection  in  Paris,  gives 
evidence.    He  was  buried  on  8th  October,  1669. 

In  Rembrandt's  career  as  a  painter  we  notice  an  uninterrupted 
and  brilliant  process  of  development.  It  is  true  that  even  his  early 
works  show  his  fondness  for  effects  produced  by  strong  and  full 
light  thrown  upon  the  principal  figures,  but  it  is  not  till  after  sev- 
eral years  residence  in  Amsterdam  that  his  pictures  are  suffused 
with  that  rich  golden  brown  tone  which  invests  his  masterpieces 
with  their  subtle  and  peculiar  charm.  About  1654  his  pictures  re- 
ceive a  still  warmer  and  more  subdued  tone ,  and  are  brown  even 
to  dimness,  but  retain,  nevertheless,  an  unfaltering  breadth  in  exe- 
cution. These  several  methods  of  Rembrandt  are  admirably  il- 
lustrated in  his  masterpieces  exhibited  in  the  various  galleries  of 
Holland.  The  'Regent'  picture  in  the  Hague  Collection  ,  known  as 
'The  Anatomical  Lecture' ,  which  contains  portraits  of  Professor 
Nicholas  Tulp,  and  the  members  of  the  Surgeons'  guild,  belongs  to 
the  year  1632.  This  picture  is  an  excellent  example  of  the  master's 
art,  which  has  enabled  him  to  animate  a  momentary  action  of  this 
portrait  group  with  dramatic  life,  by  force  of  a  concentrated  expres- 
sion and  accentuation  of  tone.  The  'Night  Watch',  preserved  in  the 
museum  at  Amsterdam,  Rembrandt's  greatest  work,  was  painted  ten 
years  later.  It  bears  the  date  1642,  and  shows  with  what  skill  this 
master  of  chiaroscuro  could,  by  its  means,  convert  a  prosaic  occur- 
rence, such  as  that  of  this  band  of  citizen  musketeers  sallying  forth 
from  their  guild-house,  into  a  scene  abounding  in  poetical  expression, 
and  exciting  the  liveliest  emotions  in  the  beholder.  In  the  so-called 
'Staalmeesters'  picture,  portraits  of  the  syndics  of  the  Clothmakers' 
guild  in  Amsterdam  (belonging  to  the  year  1661),  the  entire  tone 
seems  to  be  permeated  by  a  golden-brown  medium.  Art  has  never 
again  created  a  greater  wealth  of  stirring  imagery  or  poetry  of  colour 
so  entrancing  as  these  tbree  pictures  reveal  to  us.  Unconsciously 
our  thoughts  recur  to  Shakespeare's  familiar  creations,  and  we  re- 
cognise in  these  two  mighty  art-champions  of  the  north  kindred 
natures  and  a  corresponding  bent  of  fancy. 

It  must  not ,   however ,    be   assumed  that  Rembrandt  confined 


Ivi  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

himself  to  the  representation  of  'Regent'  pieces,  portrait  groups  (as 
the  'Jewish  Bride'  in  the  Van  der  Hoop  Collection  in  Amsterdam), 
and  single  portraits  (e.g.  Jan  Six  and  Anna  Six,  in  the  collection 
of  J.  P.  Six  in  Amsterdam).  We  possess  many  scriptural  pictures 
by  him,  scenes  from  the  New  as  well  as  Old  Testament,  for  the  most 
part  scattered  in  other  countries.  The  Hague,  however,  possesses 
examples  of  this  class  of  pictures  in  'Susanna  at  the  bath',  and 
'Simeon  in  the  Temple'  (bearing  the  date  1631).  Here,  too,  Rem- 
brandt preserves  a  mode  of  treatment  peculiarly  his  own.  In  re- 
presentations of  our  Saviour's  passion  the  tragic  event  is  pourtrayed 
in  a  harsh  matter-of-fact  spirit,  and  might  serve  to  illustrate  the 
well-known  hymn,  '0  Head  once  full  of  bruises'.  A  serener,  happier 
expression  of  solemnity  prevails  in  the  Parables,  which  enables 
us  fully  to  realise  their  significance,  often  sufficiently  obscure. 
Scenes  from  the  youthful  life  of  Christ  have  an  idyllic  charm  of 
their  own,  and  in  all  Rembrandt's  religions  compositions  the  en- 
deavour is  apparent  to  bring  them  within  the  range  of  human 
apprehension  —  a  fact  important  for  a  right  understanding  of  the 
Protestantism  of  the  17th  century.  Rembrandt  touched  also  the  re- 
gions ofMythology  (asis  proved  by  the  painting  No.  1251  in  theRyks 
Museum,  p.  327,  the  true  meaning  of  which  has  been  only  lately 
explained) ;  but,  as  will  be  readily  understood,  with  more  doubt- 
ful success.  On  the  other  hand  his  landscapes,  devoid  of  incident 
though  they  be,  wide,  unbroken,  plain,  exhibit  the  master's  feeling 
for  colour  and  poetical  expression  in  the  most  favourable  light. 

It- need  hardly  be  mentioned  that  in  order  to  become  intimately, 
and  as  it  were  personally  acquainted  with  Rembrandt,  the  collection 
of  his  etchings,  over  300  in  number ,  must  be  carefully  studied. 
Among  the  best-known,  the  rarest  and  most  beaiitiful,  are  'Rem- 
brandt's portrait  with  the  Sword',  'Lazarus  Rising  from  the  Dead', 
the  'Hundred  Florin  Plate'  ('Healing  of  the  Sick' ;  the  former  name, 
by  which  it  was  popularly  known  in  the  18th  century,  now  no  longer 
applies,  inasmuch  as  in  1867  the  sum  of  lOOOi.  was  paid  for  a  single 
impression),  'Annunciation',  'Ecce  Homo',  'The  good  Samaritan', 
'The  great  Descent  from  the  Cross',  the  portraits  of  Tolling,  Bonus, 
Six,  the  landscape  with  the  mill,  and  that  with  the  three  trees. 

A  goodly  array  of  pupils  and  imitators  are  gathered  around  Rem- 
brandt. His  influence  was  not  confined  to  Amsterdam  alone,  but  ex- 
tended to  the  neighbouring  schools,  that  of  Haarlem,  for  example. 
Amongst  his  more  Immediate  followers  may  be  mentioned  Ger- 
brand  van  den  Eeckhout  (1621-74),  whose  works  frequently  bear 
Rembrandt's  name  (the  Museum  of  Amsterdam  possesses  one  of 
the  best  of  his  pictures  —  The  Adulteress),  and  Ferdinand  Bol  of 
Dordrecht  (1609-81),  who  deserted  his  native  style  after  the 
death  of  his  master.  The  'Regent'  picture,  formerly  in  the  Lepers' 
Hospital,  and  now  in  the  new  Ryks  Museum,  at  Amsterdam,  be- 
longs to  his  best  time. 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  Ivii 

Govert  Flinck,  of  Cleves  (^1615-60),  may  be  said  almost  to  have 
rivalled  Rembrandt  at  the  outset  of  his  career.  Besides  his  two 
best  'Regent' pieces  (dated  1042  and  1648),  there  is  in  the  Miisenm 
of  Amsterdam  a  scriptural  picture  by  him.  It  represents  Isaac  in  the 
act  of  blessing  Jacob,  a  favourite  subject  with  the  school  of  Rem- 
brandt. Amongst  the  number  of  Rembrandt's  satellites  are  also  Jan 
Livens  and  Jan  Fictoor  or  Victors,  a  name  by  which  several  artists 
are  known  ;  Ph.  Koninck,  the  landscape  painter ;  Salomon  Koninck, 
whose  scriptural  pictures  and  portraits  bear  so  strong  a  superficial 
resemblance  to  those  of  Rembrandt  that  they  are  often  mistaken  for 
his ;  Jacob  Backer  (1609-51),  intimately  associated  in  his  youth 
with  Govert  Flinck,  and  his  companion  in  Rembrandt's  workshop ; 
Nicholas  Maes,  of  Dordrecht,  whose  best  works  belong  to  the  time 
of  his  youth  (1650-60),  as,  having  in  after-life  settled  in  Antwerp, 
he  seriously  deteriorated  under  the  influences  of  the  school  of 
Rubens;  Karel  Fabritius,  who  came  to  a  premature  end  by  a  pow- 
der explosion  in  Delft  (1654);  and  Bernard  Fabritius. 

Another  of  the  most  eminent  contemporaries  of  Rembrandt  was 
Jan  Venneer  (1632-75),  of  Delft,  who  pursued  a  course  of  great 
independence  and  seems  to  have  been  influenced  by  no  other  master 
except,  to  a  slight  extent,  Karel  Fabritius.  Young  women  engaged 
in  all  kinds  of  household  work,  or  in  the  more  congenial  occupation 
of  love-making,  interiors,  street  scenes,  and  landscapes,  are  his 
favourite  subjects,  all  wondrously  pure  in  colour,  abounding  in  de- 
lightful effects  of  perspective,  full  of  life,  at  once  truthful  and  charm- 
ing, entitling  them  to  rank  amongst  the  gems  of  Dutch  art.  Even 
in  his  lifetime,  and  indeed  down  to  the  present  century,  his  style 
has  been  frequently  and  successfully  imitated. 

.Scarcely  inferior  to  Vermeer  of  Delft,  and  frequently  con- 
founded with  him,  is  Peter  de  Hooch,  celebrated  for  his  fascinat- 
ing effects  of  light  in  his  interiors.  And  last,  but  not  least, 
of  this  artist  array  who,  whether  as  pupils  or  followers,  are  as- 
sociated with  Rembrandt,  comes  Gerard  Bou  (born  at  Leyden  1613  ; 
died  1680 ),  the  great  master  of  minuteness  of  finish  ,  whose  'Night 
Schools' ,  'Maidens  by  candle  light',  and  'Hermits'  are  in  so  much 
favour  with  the  public ,  commanding  prices  commensurate  with  the 
admiration  bestowed  upon  them,  though  it  must  be  said  of  his 
works  that  skilful  and  delicate  manipulation  takes  the  place  of  poet- 
ical expression,  and  that  the  range  of  his  fancy  is  contracted  in 
measure  corresponding  with  his  painstaking  elaboration  of  finish. 
This  latter  quality,  however,  must  receive  its  due  meed  of  praise. 
On  the  other  hand ,  Don  is  connected  with  a  number  of  painters 
of  declining  excellence,  such  as  Frans  van  Mieris  the  Elder,  of  Ley- 
den (1635-81),  Pieter  van  Slingeland,  of  Leyden  (1640-91),  God- 
frey Schalcken  (born  at  Dort.  1643;  died  at  the  Hague,  1706),  A. 
van  Gaesbeeck,  Abraham  de  Pape  (d.  1666),  and  many  others. 

It  will  be  seen,  then,  that  Rembrandt's  influence  was  as  weighty 


Iviii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  AR'l 

and  comprehensive  as  the  products  of  his  easel  were  great  in 
number  and  surpassing  in  quality.  Painters  of  the  most  widely 
differing  motives  acknowledge  him  as  their  master  and  example, 
and  he  has  led  the  way,  not  only  in  historical  and  portrait  painting, 
but  in  landscape  too ,  and  in  the  so-called  genre  painting.  In  this 
respect  Bartholomew  van  derHelst,  to  whom  many  would  assign 
a  place  amongst  the  foremost  realists  next  to  Rembrandt,  cannot  com- 
pare with  him.  Van  der  Heist  was  born  at  Haarlem  in  1611  or  1612, 
and  ended  his  days  there  in  1670,  in  the  enjoyment  of  great  wealth 
and  general  esteem.  Nothing  is  known  of  his  teachers,  nothing  of  his 
relations  with  Rembrandt,  whose  path  he  appears  to  be  continually 
crossing  without  compromising  his  independence.  He  was  the  favour- 
ite portrait-painter  of  the  wealthy  burghers  of  Amsterdam,  and  confined 
himself  almost  entirely  to  the  painting  of  'Regent'  pieces  and  portraits. 
His  most  celebrated  work,  the  Arquebusiers'  Banquet  (1648),  is  in 
the  Museum  of  Amsterdam  [which  also  possesses  the  Arquebusiers' 
Guild  of  1639,  and  the  'Doelenstuk' of  1657),  and  when  compared 
with  Rembrandt's  'Night  Watch',  admirably  illustrates  the  points 
of  difference  between  the  two  masters.  Van  der  Heist  presents  to 
us  Nature  as  she  is,  unrelieved,  a  bare  reality.  If  Nature  herself 
could  paint  she  would  have  given  us  a  picture  such  as  Van  der 
Heist's.  It  is  otherwise  with  Rembrandt.  Upon  all  his  works  he 
sets  the  seal  of  Ms  individuality.  As  the  reality  presents  itself  to 
his  eye,  so  he  reproduces  it  with  just  that  degree  of  truthfulness 
which  his  intention  prescribes.  Van  der  Heist's  are  mere  imitations, 
illusive  in  their  fidelity,  but  leaving  no  enduring  impression. 

Frans  Hals,  of  Haarlem,  a  somewhat  earlier  painter,  so  far  at 
least  as  the  effects  of  his  training  in  the  great  Master's  school  are  con- 
£erned,  is  more  akin  to  him  than  Van  der  Heist.  Thougli  of  Haarlem 
parentage,  he  was  born  atAntwerp  (about  1584).  When  he  returned 
to  Haarlem  is  not  known.  He  married  in  1610,  unhappily  as  the  event 
proved,  for  in  1 616  he  was  brought  before  the  Burgomaster  for  ill-treat- 
ing liis  wife,  and  had  to  promise  to  abstain  for  the  future  from 
'dronkenschappe'.  Of  the  joys  of  conviviality  which  he  could  so  well 
depict  he  freely  partook,  and  thus  got  into  difficulties  which  his 
prolific  pencil  failed  to  avert.  His  goods  and  chattels  were  sold  by 
auction  in  1652  to  pay  his  debts,  and  he  became  in  his  old  age  a 
pensioner  of  the  State.  His  death  took  place  in  1666,  at  the  age 
of  82,  his  labours  having  extended  over  half-a-centuiy.  The  earliest 
of  Ms  paintings  known  to  us  bears  the  date  1616,  the  Banquet  of 
Officers  of  the  George's  Guild  of  Musketeers,  in  the  Museum  of  Haar- 
lem ,  where  the  most  considerable  of  this  master's  'Regent-pieces' 
are  collected.  Amongst  these  the  Assembly  of  Officers  of  the  An- 
dreas Guild  (1633),  and  Assembly  of  Officers  of  the  George's  Guild 
(1639),  arc  the  best.  Rembrandt's  influence  is  still  apparent  in 
pictures  of  the  succeeding  decade,  without  however  impairing  the 
individuality  of  the  artist.     The  utmost  vivacity  of  conception. 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  lix 

purity  of  colour,  autl  breadth  of  execution,  which  in  his  latest  works 
betrays  a  handling  of  the  brnsh  so  uncompromising  that  drawing  is 
almost  lost  in  a  maze  of  colour-tone,  are  distinguishing  character- 
istics of  Frans  Hals  ,  who ,  besides  the  'Regent-pieces'  referred  to, 
was  the  author  of  numerous  portraits ;  and  he  has  immortalised  such 
popular  figures  as  the  "Rommelpott-players' ,  'The  tipsy  old  wife, 
Hille  Bobbe',  'The  jolly  shoemaker,  Jan  Barentz',  ready  either  for 
a  drinking  bout  or  for  service  in  the  fleet  with  Admiral  Tromp. 

His  best  known  pupils  are  Adrian  Brouwer  [b.  at  Oudenarde, 
1605;  d.  at  Antwerp,  16381,  -dnd  Adrian  van  Ostade(\>.  at  Haarlem, 
1610;  died  there,  1685).  As  we  do  not  possess  more  correct  bio- 
graphical data  concerning  the  former  of  these,  we  must  accept  as  true 
the  stories  told  of  him  and  his  fellows  by  authors  of  the  18th  century. 
He  is  his  master's  most  formidable  rival  in  the  naive  conception  of 
national  character,  as  well  as  in  mere  technical  skill ;  and  had  he 
lived  long  enough  to  mature  his  natural  powers,  he  must  have  borne 
away  the  palm  now  conceded  to  Adrian  Ostade.  In  the  earlier  efforts 
of  Adrian  van  Ostade,  we  are  reminded  of  Brouwer;  it  was  after  the 
year  1640,  or  thereabouts,  when  the  influence  of  Rembrandt  was 
in  the  ascendant  with  him ,  that  he  first  displayed  those  technical 
qualities  and  artistic  predilections  which  have  made  him  a  favour- 
ite with  the  most  fastidious  connoisseurs.  Grace  and  beauty  are  attri- 
butes which  the  forms  crowded  into  his  cottage-interiors  or  animating 
his  court-yard  scenes  certainly  do  not  possess  ;  but  they  always  abound 
in  lusty  life,  characteristic  and  appropriate,  whether  playing  cards, 
intent  upon  the  enjoyment  of  pipe  and  glass,  or  dancing  accompanied 
by  the  ever-present  fiddler  ;  and  with  such  marvellous  effect  is  colour 
accentuated,  so  complete  is  his  mastery  of  chiaroscuro,  that  nearly 
every  picture  may  be  saidjto  provide  a  new  'feast  for  the  eye'. 
With  Ostade  are  connected  his  brother,  Isaac  van  Ostade  (1620-49), 
Comelis   Bega  (1620-64)  ,r  and    Comelis   /)Msar«  (1660-1704). 

And  thus  we  are  brought  to  the  almost  innumerable  throng  of 
Gbitre  Painters,  who  have  imparted  to  Dutch  art  its  peculiarly  dis- 
tinctive attributes,  and  have  secured  its  greatest  triumphs.  It 
would  be  difficult  to  distinguish  amongst  the  genre  painters  of 
Holland  various  degrees  of  excellence,  inasmuch  as  each;  in  his 
respective ,  and,  as  a  rule,  contracted  sphere ,  has  asserted  an  in- 
disputable supremacy.  It  is  unfortunate  that  the  greater  number 
of  their  works  have  been  transferred  to  foreign  galleries ,  and  are 
rarely  to  be  met  with  in  Dutch  collections ,  so  that  Holland  is  no 
longer  exclusively  the  place  where  the  genre  and  landscape-paint- 
ers of  the  Netherlands  can  be  studied.  It  must  suffice,  therefore, 
to  mention  the  most  conspicuous  names. 

{  The  genre  painters  are  usually  divided  into  several  groups,  ac- 
cording to  the  subjects  which  they  make  peculiarly  their  own ;  pic- 
tures, for  example,  belong  to  the  higher  or  lower  genre  as  they  set 
before  us  the  more  refined  or  coarser  aspects  of  social  life,  the  world 


Ix  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART 

of  fashion  or  the  vnlgar  herd.  These,  however,  are  merely  adventi- 
tious distinctions,  and  do  not  by  any  means  sufliciently  account  for 
this  latest  development  of  Dutch  art,  resolving  itself  as  it  did  into 
a  number  of  local  schools.  Dirk  Hals  (probably  a  younger  brother  of 
Frans  Hals,  to  whom  many  genre  works  by  Dirk  have  been  ascribed), 
Anton  Palamedesz,  J.  A.  van  Duck,  Fitter  Codde,  and  others,  abound 
in  pictures  of  soldiers  and  cavaliers  contending  with  Venus  and 
Bacchus ,  or  engaged  in  the  sterner  encounter  of  pitched  battle  and 
skirmish  ;  in  illustrations,  too,  of  the  fierce  licence  engendered  by  the 
wars  of  the!  7th  century ;  figures  roaming  hither  and  thither  without 
restraint,  lusty  and  light-hearted.  In  striking  contrast  to  such  scenes 
as  these  are  the  pictures  of  a  peaceful  and  refined  domestic  life,  oc- 
casionally disconcerted  by  the  vicissitudes  of  love,  which  formed  the 
favourite  theme  of  Gerard  Terhurg,  born  at  Zwolle  in  1608,  a  man  who 
had  travelled  much  and  who  died  atDeventerin  1681.  He,  together 
with  his  successors,  Gabriel  Metsu,  of  Leyden  and  Amsterdam  (b. 
1630,  d.  after  1667),  Caspar  Netscherih.  at  Heidelberg,  1639;  died  at 
the  Hague,  1684),  etc.,  are  generally  known  as  'stuff'  painters,  owing 
to  the  attention  they  bestow  upon  drapery  stuffs,  especially  silks  and 
satins.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  however,  that  in  the  absence  of 
these  external  properties,  thus  carefully  supplied,  the  refinements 
of  life  could  not  be  invested  with  appropriate  pictorial  splendour. 
But  that  these  painters  were  not  the  mere  imitators  of  stuff  and 
texture,  that  they  were  capable  of  emotion,  and  could  give  utterance 
to  the  sentiments  of  romance,  will  be  sufficiently  evident  to  those 
who  study  the  'Paternal  Warning'  of  Terburg  in  the  Museum  at 
Amsterdam.  As  a  portrait-painter,  too,  Terburg  has  made  a  great 
reputation.  (His  'Peace  Congress  of  Miinster',  his  most  celebrated 
piece,  was  sold  with  the  Demidoff  collection  for  182,000  fr.) 

Jan  Stben,  the  so-called  jolly  landlord  of  Leyden  (1626-79), 
who ,  however ,  painted  also  at  the  Hague  and  Haarlem ,  was 
likewise  a  painter  of  social  subjects,  but  in  a  line  and  in  a  manner 
quite  his  own.  That  he  was  a  low-lived  tippler  is  simply  one  of 
those  wholly  gratuitous  slanders  with  which  it  was  once  the  fashion 
to  besmirch  the  painters  of  Holland.  A  jovial  life  was  probably  not 
repugnant  to  his  tastes;  and  what  is  more  to  our  purpose  is  the 
fact  that  a  spontaneous  joyousness  pervades  his  works,  and  a  sparkling 
sense  of  humour  too ;  while  as  a  colourist  he  must  be  looked  upon 
as  the  foremost  of  the  entire  school.  His  pictures  might  be  enti- 
tled comedies  of  life,  in  which  man's  follies  are  chastised  with 
satire,  and  his  weaknesses  held  up  to  ridicule,  but  without  the 
glaring  exaggeration  and  obtrusive  moralising  which  make  Hogarth's 
pictures  (with  whom  Jan  Steen  has  much  in  common)  so  unpleasant 
to  look  upon.  Family  feasts  and  merry-makings,  the  wedding  of 
ill-assorted  couples,  quacks  and  their  quackeries,  lovelorn  maidens 
('hier  baat  geen  medicijn,  want  het  is  niiune  pijn'),  tavern  brawls 
and  similar  scenes  are  his  favourite;  subjects.    Jan  Steen  has,  and 


IN  THE  NETHERLANDS.  Ixi 

with  justice,  been  likeucd  to  Moliere.  The  greater  number  and  the 
best  of  his  works  are  in  England.  He  is  very  partially  represented 
in  the  museums  of  Amsterdam  and  the  Hague.  The  Due  d'Aren- 
berg  possesses  in  his  Brussels  collection  one  of  the  very  rare  scrip- 
tural pieces  by  this  master,  the  "Marriage  at  Cana';  another,  'Laban 
searching  for  his  images',  is  in  the  Museum  at  Leyden. 

Jan  Steen  is  a  solitary  personage.  He  stands  alone,  and  has  no 
followers.  So  much  the  more  numerous,  and  at  the  same  time  in- 
timately associated ,  are  the  painters  whose  genius  found  employ- 
ment in  the  domain  of  landscape,  which  they  rendered  with  true 
artistic  appreciation ,  and  enriched  as  well  as  animated  by  the  ad- 
dition of  living  forms.  Very  frequently  these  'landscapes  with 
figures'  are  the  result  of  friendly  co-operation.  Thus  Adrian  van  de 
Velde  fl 635-72),  one  of  the  most  estimable  as  well  as  gifted  of 
Dutch  painters,  supplied  the  figures  for  the  landscapes  of  his  master 
Wynants ,  for  Moucheron ,  and  even  for  Hobbema  and  Kuysdael 
PJdlip  Wouverman  (1620-68)  has  perhaps  the  greatest  repu- 
tation for  these  figure  pictures,  of  which  some  800  may  still  be 
reckoned.  Cavalry  combats ,  hunting  scenes ,  in  which  horses  al- 
ways play  a  conspicuous  part ,  he  has  repeated  with  endless  varia- 
tions, without  however  passing  the  bouncls  of  mediocrity.  To  enu- 
merate the  names  of  all  who  occupied  this  particular  field  is  simply 
impracticable,  for  it  is  precisely  in  this  field  that  Dutch  art  was  most 
prolific.  We  must,  however,  mention  (as  akin  to  the  foregoing) 
Paul  Potter  (h.  1625;  d.  Amsterdam,  1654),  chief  of  animal  paint- 
ers, to  whose  pictures  landscape  lends  idyllic  charms,  and  whom  we 
must  accept  as  a  classical  example  of  the  entire  fraternity.  A  con- 
summate draughtsman,  he  was  at  least  as  eminent  as  a  colourist, 
especially  in  his  smaller  pictures.  A'areZduJardm  (1625-78),  an  ex- 
uberantly fertile  painter,  owes  his  best  qualities  to  the  foregoing, 
but  the  inequality  of  his  works  shows  his  inability  to  resist  other 
less  favourable  influences.  Other  'idyllic'  painters  are  Jan  Asse- 
lyn  (1610-60)  and  Nicolas  Berchem  (1620-83),  both  of  Amsterdam. 

As  landscape-painters  must  be  named  Jan  van  Goyen  of  the 
Hague  (1596-1656);  Albert  Cwyp -of  Dordrecht  (1620-91),  son 
of  Jacob  Gerritsz  (p.  liii).  also  eminent  as  a  painter  of  portraits  and 
animals ;  Jan  Wynants  of  Haarlem  (1600-70) ,  famous  for  the 
number  of  his  pupils  and  his  own  steady  development;  Allart  van 
Everdinyen  (Alkmaar,  1621-75);  Jacob  Ruysdael  (born  1625,  at 
Haarlem;  d.  1681),  'excelling  all  other  masters  in  a  feeling  for 
the  poetry  of  northern  landscape  combined  with  the  power  of  gra- 
phic embodiment';  and  Meindert  Hobbema,  whose  merits  have  only 
recently  come  to  be  appreciated.  Hobbema  was  born  at  Amsterdam, 
1638,  and  died  in  1709.  His  works  exhibit  a  moderate  talent  only 
for  composition ;  the  same  motive  constantly  recurs  in  his  pictures 
(the  figures  are  for  the  most  part  by  another  hand) ;  but  in  delicacy 
and  thoroughness  of  elaboration,  more  particularly  in  his  treatment 


Ixii  HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  ART. 

of  atmosphere  and  light,  his  pictures  must  be  highly  prized  as  works 
of  genius  of  the  highest  order.  —  Jan  van  der  Meer  of  Haarlem 
(1678-91)  shows  himself  near  of  kin  to  Jacob  Ruysdael.  Numer- 
ous other  landscape  painters  remained  true  to  their  national  sce- 
nery ,  but  in  many  cases  they  lapsed  into  a  kind  of  mannerism, 
which  is  very  apparent  in  the  moonlight  scenes  of  Aart  van  der 
Neer  (of  Amsterdam,  1603-77),  The  better  pictures  of  the  last- 
named  artist,  such  as  his  forest-landscape  in  the  Van  der  Hoop 
collection,  are,  however,  not  inferior  to  those  of  Ruysdael  and  Hob- 
bema,  whom  he  also  resembles  in  his  death  in  poverty  and  ob- 
scurity. Fashion  also  began  to  demand  the  study  of  Italian  land- 
scapes, and  in  the  second  half  of  the  17th  cent,  compositions  of  this 
kind  are  decidedly  predominant.  Among  the  earliest  examples  of 
this  tendency  are  Jan  Both  of  Utrecht  (c.  1610-50),  Adam  Pynacker 
(1621-73),  and  Herman  Swanevelt  (1620-59?). 

It  is  well  known  how  marine  painting  (WiWgm  van  de  Velde,  the 
Younger,  1633-1707;  Hendrik  van  Vliet,  d.  1675  at  Delft),  and 
architectural  painting  ^Jan  van  der  Heyden,  1637-1712,  and  Ema- 
nuel de  Witte,  1607-92),  prospered  in  Holland,  and  how  the  natio- 
nal art,  as  it  were  with  its  last  breath,  gave  birth  to  the  so-called 
'still-life'  (W.  van  Aelst  of  Delft)  and  flower  painting  (Jan  Davidsz 
de  Heem,  1600-1674,  Utrecht  and  Amsterdam;  Rachel  Ruyseh, 
1664-1750,  Amsterdam;  Jan  van  Huysum,  1682-1749). 

We  conclude  these  slight  observations  with  the  wish  that  they 
may  induce  to  a  more  searching  study  of  Dutch  art  in  a  careful 
examination  of  the  works  themselves ,  and  we  recommend  all  who 
take  an  interest  in  the  subject  to  read  Burger's  well  known  book 
on  the  'Mns^es  de  la  HoUande',  in  which  Dutch  painting  is  most 
exhaustively  treated. 


1.  From  London  to  Ostend. 

There  are  two  direct  routes  from  London  to  Ostend  :  1.  Via  Dover, 
twice  daily,  in  6V2-8  hrs.  (fares  1/.  IO5.  3d.,  il.  2.<!.  3d.,  lis.  9d  ) ;  2.  By  Gen. 
Steam  Nav.  Co/s  steamers,  once  or  twice  weekly,  in  10-12  hrs.  The  former 
route  is  recommended  to  those  whose  time  is  limited ;  the  latter  is  pleasant 
in  fine  weather,  and  considerably  less  expensive  (chief  cabin  15s.,  fore 
cabin  10s.).  —  Comp.  R.  11. 

Ostend.  —  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  B,  4)  lies  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
town,  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  sea  and  the  principal  hotels,  biit 
is  connected  by  rails  with  the  Gave  Maritime  at  the  steamboat-pier  (PI.  C, 
D,  4).  Omnibuses  from  the  hotels  meet  both  the  trains  and  the  steamers  (fare 
usually  ^/i-lir.).  Cab  from  the  station  to  the  town  1  fr. ;  luggage  under 
56 lbs.  free;  for  over-weight  2V2C.  per  lb.  Travellers  proceeding  direct  to 
Antwerp  through  the  Waesland  (p.  62)  should  book  to  Bruges  only,  and 
there  take  a  fresh  ticket  via  Ghent  (see  p.  10  and  K.  10).  If  a  through- 
ticket  from  Ostend  to  Antwerp  be  taken,  the  traveller  is  conveyed  by  the 
longer  route  via  Malines. 

Hotels.  On  the  Di'jue ,  with  unimpeded  views  of  the  sea,  nearly  all 
large,  new,  and  expensive:  R.  4-15,  L.  s/^-l,  A.  1,  B.  lV'2-2,  d^j.  3,  D.  4-G, 
pens.  10-16,  board  from  7  fr.  In  the  height  of  the  season  20-30  fr.  per  day 
are  demanded  for  a  room  on  the  first  floor,  facing  the  sea.  To  the  S.W.  of 
the  Cursaal:  Hotel  Central;  Hotel  Wellingtox;  Hutel  Continental 
(Pl.^j;  B,  2),  an  imposing  establishment,  with  lift,  no  pension.  Adjacent, 
Hotel  de  lOcean  (PI.  b;  B,  2);  Hotel  de  la  Plage  (PI.  a;  B,  2) ;  Hot. 
Bead-Rivage.  PlOouis  may  also  be  procured  at  the  Pavillon  du  Rhin  (see 
next  page), farther  on.  —  To  the  N.E.  of  the  Cursaal :  Hotel  Royal  Belge  ; 
Hotel  Bellevue;  Gkand  Hotel  d'Ostende,  with  restaurant-,  Geand  Ho- 
tel DD  Littoral  (PI.  m;  C,  2,  3),  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  du  Cerf; 
Hotel  du  Kursaal  et  Beau-Site,  Hotel  de  Rus-sie,  two  houses  at  the 
corner  of  the  Rampe  de  Flandre,  belonging  to  the  same  proprietor;  Grand 
Hotel  des  Bains,  with  restaurant.  —  Xear  the  old  light-house ;  Grand 
Hotel  du  Phare  (PI.  g ;  D,  2),  with  restaurant,  R.  &  A.  3-20,  L.  3/4,  B.  IV2, 
dej.  3,  D.  4-5,  pens.  10-15  fr.,  open  all  the  vear;  Hotel  Nemrod,  plain. 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  4-13,  B.  11/4,  dej.  2,  D.  31/2,  pens.  9-15  fr. ;  etc. 

Adjoining  the  Digue:  Hotel  Royal  de  Pkcsse  (PL  h;  D,  2),  at  the 
corner  of  the  Boulevard  van  Iseghem  and  the  Rue  des  Capucins,  R.  from 
3,  L.  &  A.  IV2,  B.  11/4,  dej.  21/2,  D.  4,  pens.  9-15  fr.  —  Just  beyond  the 
Cursaal:  Hotel  Imperial  (PI.  0;  B,  2),  Hotel  de  la  Digue  (PL  s;  D,  2), 
in  both,  R.,L.,  &  A.  4-II1/2,  B.  I1/4,  dej.  21/2,  D.  372-4,  pens.  9-16,  board 
from7fr. ;  Hotel  des  Arcade.s  (PL  I;  B,  2),  with  restaurant,  pens.  9  fr. ; 
Hotel  Leopold,  moderate;  these  all  command  a  view  of  the  sea  from 
the  upper  windows. 

In  the  Town.  Between  the  Digue  and  the  Place  d'Armes:  'Grand  Hotel 
Fontaine  (PL  m;  C,  2),  a  large  first-class  house,  with  spacious  dining-room 
containing  several  old  pictures  by  Netherlandish  artists,  D.  5  fr.;  Hotel  Frank 
(PL  n ;  C,  2),  frequented  by  Jews ;  Hotel  de  Vienne  (PL  0 ;  C,  2);  these  three 
in  the  Rue  Longue,  between  the  Rue  Louise  and  the  Rue  de  Flandre. 
—  HOtel  Mertian  (PL  p;  C,  2),  Rue  de  I'Ouest,  R.  from  3,  L.  &  A.  I'/s, 
B.  11/2,  dej.  (il-2  o'cl.)  3,  D.  4,  pens.  9,  board  from  71/2  fr.;  Cercle  Catho- 
LiQUE  (PL  q;  C,  2),  same  street.  —  3Iore  to  the  W. :  Hotel  de  Su^de  (PL 
r  ;  B,  2),  Place  du  Theatre,  with  restaurant. 

In  or  near  the  Place  d'Armes:  *H6tel  du  Grand  Caf6  (PL  v;  C,  2), 
corner  of  the  Rue  Louise  and  the  Rue  de  Brabant,  first-class,  R.,  L.,  &  A. 
31/2-772.  B,  11/2,  dej.  2V2,  D.  4,  pens.  IO-I2V2,  board  8  fr.  ;  -Hotel  du  Lion 
d'Or  (PL  u ;  C,  2),  corner  of  the  Rue  de  Flandre  and  the  Rue  St.  Se'bastien, 
old-fashioned  Belgian  house,  D.  3,  pens.  8  fr. ;  Hotel  de  Gand  et  d'Albion 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  1 


2     Route  1.  OSTEND.  Rotels. 

(PI.  x;  C,  D,  3),  in  the  Marcbe  aux  Herbes,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3-9,  B.  11/4,  dej. 
2'/2,  !>•  3,  pens.  8-10  fr.  —  Couk  d'Angleterre  (PI.  z;  C,  3j,  Rue  de  la 
Chapelle  lU;  opposite,  Hotel  de  Bavi^re,  Rue  de  la  Chapelle  15,  R., 
L.,  &  A.  2V2-3,  B.  1,  tU^j.  11/2,  D.  2'/2,  pens.  7-8,  board  5-6  fr.;  Ecrope  (PI.  a; 
D,  2),  Rue  des  Capucins,  D.  2'/2fr.,  unpretending. 

Still  farther  from  the  sea:  '^Grand  Hotel  Marion  (PI.  c;  C,3),  Rue  de 
PEglise  33,  first-class,  D.  4.  pens,  from  7'  2  fr. ;  Hotel  de  la  Marine  (PI. 
d;  C,  3),  CouR  DE  France  (PI.  e;  C,  3),  D.  2'/2  fr.,  side  by  side  in  the  Rue 
de  la  Chapelle;  opposite,  Hotel  St.  Dknis  (PI./,-  C,  3),  No.  44.  — 'Hotel 
d'Allemagne  or  Stracke  (PI.  i;  C,  3) ,  Rue  du  Quai  22,  first-class,  R.  &  L. 
31/2-0,  A.  3/i,  B.  11/2,  D.  at  1  o'cl.  3,  at  5  o'cl.  4  (to  subscribers  3V2),  pens. 
IIV2-I5  fr.  —  Codronne  ,  Quai  de  TEmpereur,  near  the  railway-station, 
well  spoken  of;  Ship  Hotel,  near  the  steamboat-pier,  R.  3V2,  B.  I74  fr-, 
well  spoken  of.  —  All  the  hotels  on  the  Digue  and  many  of  those  in  the 
town  are  open  duringthe  season  only,  but  the  last-named  are  always  open. 

Hotels  Garnis  and  Private  Lodgings  abound  both  on  the  Digue  and 
in  the  town.  Even  at  the  beginning  or  the  close  of  the  season  (1st 
June  to  15th  Oct.),  a  room  cannot  be  obtained  under  3-5  fr.  a  day,  or 
15-3U  fr.  per  week.  The  rent  of  a  small  suite  of  rooms  (dining-room, 
drawing-room,  three  bedrooms,  kitchen)  in  June  is  about  300  fr.,  in  July 
500  fr.,  August  800  fr.,  and  September  (500  fr.  —  The  contract  should  be 
committed  to  writing,  if  the  hirer  contemplates  a  prolonged  stay.  The 
usual  charge  for  a  plain  breakfast  is  75c.-lfr.,  for  attendance  50c.  per 
day.  French  is  often  imperfectly  understood  by  the  Flemish  servants.  — 
The  hirer  should  see  that  attendance  is  expressly  included  in  the  agree- 
ment, both  in  private  apartments  and  at  the  hotels  garnis,  as  otherwise 
he  is  liable  to  an  extra  charge  of  1  fr.  per  day. 

Restaurants.  On  the  Digue,  dear,  and  attendance  often  bad.  The  Cursaal 
(PI.  B,  1,2),  an  extensive  establishment  with  restaurant,  cafe,  a  reading- 
room,  a  large  hall,  and  galleries  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  sea 
and  land,  open  to  subscribers  only,  is  the  principal  resort  of  visitors  dur- 
ing the  bathing  season.  With  its  gardens  it  occupies  an  area  of  about 
13,000  sq.  yards.  Subscribers  for  a  week  or  upwards  are  admitted  to  the 
balls  at  the  Casino  (see  p.  3).  Belgian ,  French ,  and  other  newspapers. 
Subscriptions:  per  day  3,  4  days  9,  per  week  17,  per  fortnight  31,  per 
month  531/2,  six  weeks  68V2,  per  season  76  fr. ;  2  pers.  6,  17,  321/2,  53V2, 
76,  831/2,  91  fr. ;  three  pers.  9,  25,  441/2,  68V2,  831/2,  943/4,  106  fr.  (cheaper 
in  Sept.).  —  Restaurants  in  the  above-mentioned  hotels,  Wellington,  Conti- 
nental, de  VOcian,  'de  la  Plage,  and  Beau-Rivage ;  also  at  the  Pavilion  dii 
Rhin  (PI.  f;  A,  1),  the  farthest  to  the  S.,  with  an  oyster  and  lobster-park. 
—  At  the  opposite  (N.)  end  of  the  Digue:  Ildtels  Royal  Beige,  Oslende, 
Littoral,  Beau-Site,  ^Russie,  see  p.  1.  Adjacent,  the  Hdtel  du  Phare  (PI.  g; 
D  2;  see  p.  1).  —  Farther  on,  between  the  approaches  to  the  Estacade,  is 
an  Estaminet  where  oysters  are  sold.  —  Table  dli6(e  at  the  hotels,  the  Cur- 
saal (for  subscribers;  6  fr.),  and  the  Pavilion  du  Rhin  (5  fr.).  —  It  is 
customary  at  all  these  establishments  to  give  a  few  sous  to  the  waiter  at 
each  repast. 

Cafes,  besides  those  above  mentioned:  Grande  Patisserie,  Rue  de 
Flandre  32,  also  a  restaurant  (dej.  3,  D.5fr.);  *iVop/)e7je2/,  corner  of  the  Rue 
de  Flandre  and  the  Rue  Longue  (also  confectioner) ;  Cave  de  Munich,  Rue 
de  Flandre,  in  the  Hotel  de  Flandre  (p.  1).  The  SociM  Littiraire  on 
the  ground-floor  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  7;  C,  3),  to  which  strangers  are 
not  admitted  unless  introduced  by  a  member  (first  5  days  gratis,  after- 
wards 3  fr.  per  month),  contains  a  restaurant  and  reading-room. 

Wine  at  Michens-Verhoest,  Rue  de  Flandre  15  (claret  from  1  fr.  10  c. 
per  bottle  ;  ale  or  porter  10  fr.  per  doz.,  or  1  fr.  per  ])ottle;  also  tea,  etc.); 
Bodega  (Spanish  wine-room).  Rue  de  Flandre  22.  -—  Beer  at  several  taverns 
and  beer-saloons.  —  Many  of  the  summer-residents  at  Ostend  cater  for  their 
own  breakfast  and  luncheon  at  one  of  the  'charcutiers''  or  purveyors  of 
preserved  meats,  such  as  S.  Raeymaekers^  Rue  de  TOucst  4. 

Water.  The  drinking-water  of  Ostend  is  indifferent.  Seltzer-water 
or  other  aerated  waters  in  'siphons'  (50  c.)  will  be  found  wholesome  for 
drinking,  and  may  be  procured  at  Noppeney''s,  Rue  de  Flandre  (see  above). 


Baths. 


OSTEND.  /.  noute.     3 


Baths  fp.  5).  Bathing-time  from  7  a.m  to  7  p.m.  Tickets  ('coupons'") 
must  be  obtained  at  the  office  on  the  beach:  machine  (for  not  longer  than 
40  min.)  including  costume  and  two  towels  1  fr. ,  two  additional  towels 
20c.  (regular  bathers  should  purchase  these  requisites  for  themselves; 
price  3-5  fr. ,  fee  for  taking  charge  of  them  20  c.)-  The  'Paradis',  where 
a  bathing-costume  is  not  obligatory,  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  harbour  (PI. 
E,  F,  2,  3),  see  p.  5;  charge  including  ferry  over  the  harbour-mouth,  i  fr., 
office  at  the  entrance  of  the  Estacade.  Near  the  old  lighthouse  (PI.  D, 
E,  2),  is  the  'Section  Est',  a  bathing-place  for  the  less  robust  bathers 
(70  c.).  —  Invalids  and  persons  unaccustomed  to  sea-bathing  may  procure 
the  services  of  a  '•haigneur'  or  '■baigneuse''  for  50  c.  more.  The  driver  of  the 
machine  generally  receives  5  c.,  and  5  c.  is  given  for  cleaning  the  machine. 
Valuables  should'  be  left  at  home.  —  Tents  and  'marquises'  for  sitting 
on    the  beach  1-iV^  fr.  per  day,    or  6-9  fr.  per  week.     Chairs,  10  c. 

"Warm  Salt-Water  Baths.  *Elahlissement  Hiidrothirapique,  'adjoining 
thcCursaal,  baths  of  all  kinds,  massage,  etc.;  Iloedts,  Rue  de  TEglise  23. 

Cabs  (  Voitnres  de  place ;  stands  at  the  railway-station  and  in  the  mar- 
ket-place) 1  fr.  per  drive  in  the  town;  first  hour  IVjff-;  each  1/2  fir,  addi- 
tional 50  c. ;   at  night  V2  fr.  more  between  10  and  1,    1  fr.   more  between 

1  and  4.30  a.m.  The  fares  for  '■paniers\  carriages  of  a  superior  description, 
are  higher:  drive  in  the  town  11/2  fr..  1  hr.  3,  each  following  hr.  2  fr.  — 
There  is  no  tariff  for  drives  outside  the  town. 

Steam  Tramway  (Buw/spoonceg^  C/iemin  de  Fer  Vicinal)  starting  from 
the  railway-station,  and  stopping  at  the  Rue  de  la  Chapelle,  at  the  Cur- 
saal,  and  the  Avenue  de  la  Keine  (comp.  the  PL,  p.  6):  to  (14  M.)  Blan- 
kenherghe  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  1  fr.  50,  1  fr.  5c.);  to  (1-V4  M.)  Mariakerke 
(p.  6)  in  1/4  hr,  (25,  15  c);  to  (5'/.:  M.)  Middelkerke  (p.  7j  in  1,2  hr.  (65,  45  c.) ; 
to  (11  M.)  Meuport  (p.  31)  in  1  hr.  (1  fr.  20,  85  c.) ;  to  (ISV2  M.)  Furnes  (p.  31) 
in  13/4  hr.  (2  fr.  10,  1  fr.  50  c). 

Donkeys  for  hire  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Digue,    1  fr.    per  hour;  Ponies, 

2  fr.  per  hour. 

Sailing  Boats  with  2  men  for  1/2  fir.  3,  1  hr.  5,  2  firs.  6  fr. ;  with  3 
men  5,  6.  8  fr. ;  with  4  men  6,  8,  12  fr.  Previous  agreement  necessary 
when  the  party  consists  of  more  than  4  persons,  as  otherwise  1  fr.  more 
for  each  may  be  demanded.  Out  of  the  season  the  charges  are  less.  — 
Beggars  are  a  great  annoyance  in  Ostend. 

Concerts  and  Balls.  Concerts  daily  at  the  Cursaal  (p.  5)  and  every  even- 
ing in  the  new  3Iusic  Pavilion,  near  the  old  lighthouse  (PI.  D,  2).  Balls 
on  Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.  in  the  Casino,  a  handsome  ball-room  on  the 
first  floor  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (p.  4);  admission  for  non-subscribers  to 
the  Cursaal  3  fr.  {'toilette  de  viUe\  i.e.  a  black  coat). 

Horse  Races  are  held  in  the  Hippodrome  Wellington  (p.  5)  several 
times  during  the  season. 

Circulating  Libraries  (Cabinets  de  lecture).  Godi/urneau,  Marie 
Asseloos,  both  in  the  Rue  Longue.  Newspapers  are  sold  by  Daniel s-Dubai\ 
Rue  de  la  Chapelle  25.  The  Saison  d'Ostende,  which  appears  daily  (20  c), 
is  the  official  organ  of  the  Cursaal  authorities;  the  Sunday  issue  is  furnished 
gratis  to  the  subscribers  to  the  Cursaal. 

Physicians.  Dr.  de  Hondt^  Rue  de  la  Chapelle  62;  Dr.  Janssens^  Marche- 
aux-Herbes  ;  Dr.  van  Oye,  Avenue  Charles  Janssens  11 ;  Dr.  Schramme,  Rue 
des  Capucins;  Dr.  Verschuere,  Boul.  van  Iseghem. 

Bankers.  Agency  of  the  Banque  Rationale,  Rue  de  Flandre;  Bach  d-  Co, 
Rue  des  Capucins  9. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Rue  des  Soeurs  Blanches  10,  open  7  a.m. 
to  7  p.  m. 

English  Church  (PI.  9;  D,  2,  3)  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Rue  Longue;  ser- 
vices at  11  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m. ;  chaplain,  Rev.  L.  M.  D'Orsey;  acting  chaplain, 
Rev.  A.  C.  R.    Wolston^  Rue  Longue  66. 

Ostend  (25,000  inhab.},  the  second  seaport  of  Belgium,  owes 
most  of  its  importance  to  the  great  passenger-traffic  between  Lon- 

1* 


4     Route  1.  OSTEND.  Digue. 

don  and  the  continent,  of  which  it  has  long  been  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal avenues.  It  also  possesses  210  fishing-boats,  manned  by  1260 
men,  being  fully  one-half  the  number  belonging  to  the  whole  king- 
dom ;  and  of  late  years  it  has  become  a  great  sea-bathing  resort. 

The  town  was  once  strongly  fortified.  In  1601-1604  it  sus- 
tained one  of  the  most  remarkable  sieges  on  record,  and  was  only 
surrendered  to  the  Spanish  general  Spinola  in  consequence  of  orders 
received  from  the  States  General.  In  the  Spanish  War  of  Succes- 
sion, after  the  Battle  of  Hochsfadt,  Ostend  was  occupied  by  the 
allies  under  Marlborough.  In  1745  Louis  XV.  took  the  fortress 
after  a  siege  of  18  days,  and  in  1794  it  was  again  taken  by  the 
French,  who  held  it  until  1814.  The  fortifications  w  ere  demolished 
in  1865,  and  have  been  converted  into  promenades.  Since  then 
many  fine  buildings  have  been  erected  along  the  beach. 

The  main  street  of  the  town  Is  the  Rue  de  la  Chapelle  (PI.  C, 
4,  31,  leading  from  the  station  to  the  market-place  (Place  (TArmes), 
where  it  changes  its  name  to  Rue  de  Flandres  or  Vlaanderstraat  (PI. 
C,  2).  It  has  lately  been  extended  hence  as  far  as  the  Digue,  near 
which  the  principal  shops ,  including  some  large  emporiums  of 
shells,  are  situated. 

Few  of  the  public  buildings  of  Ostend  are  worthy  of  note.  The 
Church  ofSS.  Peter  and  Paul  (PI.  6  ;  0,  3,  4)  contains  a  monument 
to  Queen  Louise  (p.  114),  who  died  here  in  1850,  by  Fraikin.  — 
The  large  Town  Hall  (PL  7)  is  in  the  Place  d'Armes  (PL  C,  2,  3). 
The  ground-floor  is  occupied  by  the  Societe  Litteraire ,  mentioned 
on  p.  2,  while  the  ball-rooms  of  the  Casino  (p.  3)  are  on  the  first 
floor.  The  tower  is  surmounted  by  an  anemometer,  or  wind-gauge. 
—  The  Church  of  St,  Catharine,  in  the  liue  Christine,  finished  in 
1883,  has  been  built  in  the  style  of  the  13th  cent,  and  is  a  copy  of 
an  old  church  of  Ghent,  now  pulled  down.  The  interior  contains 
finely-carved  choir-stalls  and  pulpit.  —  The  Pare  Leopold  (PL 
B,  3)  is  tastefully  laid  out  and  will  be  a  pleasant  resort  when  the 
trees  are  larger  (cafe  in  the  middle). 

Ostend  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  and  cosmopolitan  watering- 
places  in  Europe.  During  the  season  (1st  June-15th  Oct.)  it  attracts 
32,000  visitors  (including  passing  travellers)  from  all  parts  of  Eu- 
rope, especially  from  Belgium  and  France.  The  chief  promenade  is 
the  *Digue,  a  stone  dyke  or  bulwark  upwards  of  1  M.  in  length, 
about  33  yds.  wide,  and  33  ft.  in  height ,  extending  along  the  coast 
from  N.E.  to  S.W.  "With  the  exception  of  the  carriage-road,  13  yds. 
in  breadth,  the  whole  is  laid  with  terracotta  bricks.  The  scene  pre- 
sented by  this  promenade  and  its  environs  during  the  height  of  the 
season  will  strike  the  English  traveller  who  witnesses  it  for  the  first 
time  as  novel  and  amusing.  The  fact  that  a  very  large  proportion  of 
the  visitors  are  inlanders,  who  have  never  seen  the  sea,  and  are  now  for 
the  first  time  in  their  lives  rejoicing  in  its  health-restoring  breezes 
and  ever-changeful  aspect,  sufficiently  accounts  for  the  popularity  of 


Harbour.  OSTEND.  1.  Route.      5 

a  place  which  affords  few  other  attractions.  The  traveller,  therefore, 
by  visiting  the  Digue  on  a  warm  summer-evening ,  will  at  a  glance 
witness  the  most  characteristic  phase  of  Ostend  life.  Several  ap- 
proaches ascend  to  it  from  the  town.  Along  the  Digue  stretches  a 
row  of  handsome  new  buildings  ,  including  the  hotels  and  restau- 
rants mentioned  on  pp.  1,2,  and  numerous  private  villas,  some  of 
which  are  tasteful  structures  in  the  Flemish  Renaissance  style. 
Near  the  middle  rises  the  handsome  Cursaal  (PI.  B,  1,  2;  p.  2), 
erected  in  1876-78,  from  the  designs  of  Naert  of  Brussels.  Farther 
on,  upon  a  lofty  dune,  stands  the  Palais  du  Roi  (PI.  A,  1),  or  royal 
villa,  beyond  which  the  Digue  extends  past  Fort  Wellington  to  Ma- 
riakerke  (p.  6).    Near  the  fort  is  the  Hippodrome  Wellington  (p.  3). 

The  Bathing  Places  (PI.  A,  B,  1)  adjoin  the  Digue  on  the  S.  W. 
side,  and  there  are  about  400  bathing-machines.  Most  of  the  visi- 
tors bathe  in  the  morning.  There  is  here,  as  at  French  watering- 
places,  no  separation  of  the  sexes ;  but  the  strictest  propriety  is  ob- 
served, and  every  bather  is  provided  with  a  costume.  Ladies  may 
avoid  publicity  by  bathing  at  a  very  early  hour.  Gentlemen  who 
prefer  bathing  ^sans  costume'  should  go  to  the  '■Paradis\  where,  as 
its  name  imports,  they  may  dispense  with  a  bathing-dress  (p.  3). 

At  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Digue  is  the  Estacade  (PI.  E,  2),  con- 
sisting of  two  estaches,  or  piers  (the  W.  about  1/3  ^1-  ^^  length, 
the  E.  100  yds.  longer)  ,  which  shelter  the  entrance  to  the  harbour 
and  afford  a  view  of  the  arriving  and  departing  steamers.  They  are 
provided  with  seats  (chair  10  c),  and  serve  as  a  public  promenade. 

The  entrance  to  the  harbour  {C'henal ;  PI.  E,  2)  is  180  yds.  in 
length.  The  Harbour  itself  consists  of  the  Avant-Port^  the  Bassin 
du  Commerce,  and  the  Arriere-Port.  The  Bassin  de  Chasse  (PI.  E, 
3,4),  with  its  massive  gates,  was  constructed  for  the  purpose  of 
sweeping  away  the  sandbanks  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  the 
water  being  confined  within  it  at  high  tide,  and  allowed  to  escape 
suddenly  at  low  tide.  The  other  parts  of  the  harbour  and  the  locks 
of  Slykens  (p.  6)  were  constructed  under  Emp.  Josephll.  —  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  New  Basin  lies  the  Minque  or  Fish  Market  (Marche 
aux  Poissons ;  PI.  D,  4),  a  circular  building  with  an  open  court,  where 
the  auctions  described  at  p.  6  take  place  from  7  to  9  a.m.,  on  the 
return  of  the  fishing-boats. 

Beyond  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  and  the  Bassin  de  Chasse  just 
mentioned,  which  we  skirt  for  10  min.  ,  rises  the  *Lightliouse 
(Nouveau  Phare;  PI.  F,  4),  174  ft.  in  height,  which  should  be  in- 
spected by  those  who  have  never  seen  the  interior  of  such  a  struc- 
ture. (As  there  is  no  tariff  for  excursions  by  boat  to  the  lighthouse, 
a  bargain  should  be  made  beforehand ;  25-30  c,  or,  there  and  back, 
50-75  c,  is  sufficient.)  The  lantern  (fee  1/2  fr.)  contains  a  series 
of  prisms,  resembling  beehives  in  shape,  and  reflectors  of  copper 
plated  with  platina,  by  which  arrangement  the  light  is  said  to  be  in- 
tensified a  thousand-fold ,   and  to  be  visible  at  a  distance  of  45  M. 


6     Route  1.  SLYKENS. 

The  top  coniniauds  aii  extensive  view  in  tine  weather.  Psieuport, 
Fumes,  and  even  Dunkirk  are  seen  towards  the  S.W.,  the  Cursaal 
of  Blankenberglie  to  the  N.E.,  and  the  towers  of  Bruges  to  the  E. 

The  Oyster  Parks  (Huttrieres)  are  extensive  reservoirs  on  the 
N.E.  and  8.W.  sides  of  the  Dij2;ue  (several  near  the  Bruges  Gate, 
e.g.  Slichert  iV-  Stracke,  wlio  admit  visitors),  where  vast  quantities  of 
these  favourite  bivalves  are  stored  throughoiit  the  greater  part  of  the 
year.  They  are  imported  from  the  English  coast ,  and  kept  here 
in  prime  condition  by  daily  supplies  of  clarilied  sea-water.  Their 
price  varies  from  5  to  8  fr.  per  hundred,  and  upwards.  Abundant 
and  fresh  supplies  may  therefore  always  be  procured,  except  in  the 
height  of  summer,  when  they  are  out  of  season.  Lobsters,  brought 
chiefly  from  Norway,  are  kept  in  separate  receptacles  in  thehuitrieres, 
and  fetch  from  2  to  6  fr.  each.  Fish  is  generally  plentiful,  especially 
in  summer,  when  transport  is  difficult.  A  large  turbot  may  often  be 
bought  for  10-15  fr.  ;  soles,  cod,  haddocks,  mackerel,  and  skate  are 
of  course  less  expensive.  Crabs,  shrimps,  and  mussels  are  also 
abundant.    Shells  of  every  variety  may  be  purchased. 

All  these  different  kinds  of  fish  are  sold  by  public  auction 
in  the  fish-market  (p.  5),  under  the  supervision  of  the  muni- 
cipal authorities.  The  principal  sales  take  place  on  fast  days  (Wed. 
and  Frid.}.  The  salesman  fixes  a  high  price  in  sous  for  each 
lot,  and  then  gradually  descends,  until  a  bidder  calls  out  'myn' 
and  thus  becomes  the  purchaser.  The  great  advantage  of  this 
'  Dutch  auction '  is  that  a  single  bid  settles  the  matter,  and  much 
confusion  is  thus  prevented.  Most  of  the  purchasers  are  women, 
who  afterwards  retail  the  fish  in  the  market.  The  Flemish  lan- 
guage alone  is  spoken  on  these  occasions,  and  the  spectator  has 
an  excellent  opportunity  of  witnessing  a  characteristic  scene  of  Bel- 
gian life.  —  An  immense  number  of  rabbits  are  killed  annually  on 
the  Dunes  around  Ostend. 

Several  ecclesiastical  and  populai-  Festivals  are  celeln-ated  at  (\9tend 
in  .Tuly  and  August,  including  the  '•Kermesses'.  at  which  the  Belgian 
archers,  of  whom  there  are  numerous  clulis,  always  act  a  prominent  part, 
displaying  extraordinary  strength  and  skill.  The  most  interesting  church- 
festival  is  the  Procession  on  St.  Peter's  Day  (29th  .lunc),  when  the 
ceremony  of  blessing  the  sea  is  performed  before  a  large  concourse  of 
lishermen  and  their  families. 

Slykens  (Cafe  de  la  Concorde),  IV4  M.  to  the  E.  of  Ostend,  a 
village  on  the  road  to  Bruges,  may  easily  be  visited  on  foot.  Other 
walks  may  be  made  to  Oudenburg  (p.  10),  den  Ilaan  (p.  9),  Wen- 
dmjne  (p.  8),  etc. 

Along  the  coast  to  the  W.  of  Ostend  are  several  smaller  sea- 
bathing resorts,  both  quieter  and  less  expensive  than  Ostend,  Blan- 
kenberghe  (p.  7),  or  Heyst  (p.  9). 

Mariakerke  (Cursaal;  Hotel  Speranza;  pens,  in  both  from  6fr. ; 
Villa  BeausejourJ,  1-^/4  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Ostend,  may  be  reached 
in  1/2  ^r.  by  the  Digue  (p.  5),   and  it  is  also  the  first  station  on 


BLANKENBERGHE.  -2.  Route.     / 

the  steam-tramway  mentioned  at  p.  3.  The  bathing-arrangements 
are  good;  bath,  including  coach  and  costume,  75c.  from  11-12 
o'clock;  at  other  times  50  c. 

About  3  M.  beyond  Mariakerke  (one-horse  carr.  from  Ostend 
8-1*2,  two-horse  14-18  fr.)  lies  Middelkerke  (Hotels  des  Bains,  de 
la  Plage,  de  la  Digue,  du  Cursaal) ,  also  on  the  steam-tramway 
(p.  3)  and  the  starting-point  of  the  submarine  telegraph  cable  to 
the  English  coast.  There  is  nothing  to  mark  the  latter  spot  except 
the  watchman's  hut  on  the  sandhill.  Farther  on  is  the  Hospice  Ro- 
ger de  Grimherghe  for  invalid  children,  opened  in  1884  and  con- 
taining 120  beds  (daily  21  9  fr.). 

Nieuport,  another  of  this  group  of  watering-places,  10  M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  Ostend  (steam-tramway,  p.  3)  is  described  at  p.  31. 

To  the  W.  of  Nieuport  are  finally  the  new  bathing-resort  of  Oostduin- 
kerke  and  the  older  La  Panne  {^Grand-Hotel  Panne-Bains.  Flemish)  lying 
close  to  the  French  border.  La  Panne  may  be  reached  via  Fumes  (p.  31) 
or  from  the  Belgian  frontier-station  Adinkcrke  (p.  32). 

2.    Blankenberghe  and  Heyst. 

Blankenberghe.  —  Hotels.  On  the  Digue,  often  overcrowded  in  the 
height  of  the  season.  To  the  right  of  the  principal  approach  to  the  Digue: 
Gkaxd  Hotel  des  Bains  et  des  Familles,  containing  ^  apartments,  with 
a  terrace  overlooking  the  sea,  B.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  5-15,  D.  3,  S.  2,  pens,  from 
10  fr.  Hotel  dd  Ruin,  with  cafe'-restaurant.  Farther  on,  Pavillon  Eotal, 
annexe  of  the  Hot.  de  la  Paix  (see  below),  pens.  9-12  fr.  5  Pavillon  des 
Pkinces  (good  cuisine)  and  Hotel  Continental,  under  the  same  manage- 
ment as  the  Hot.  Cursaal  (see  below).  —  To  the  left  of  the  principal  ap- 
proach: Hotel  Goddehis,  table  d'hote  at  1  (3  fr.)  and  7  o'clock  (2  fr.),  pens. 
7-15  fr. ;  Maison  Veuve  Emile  Goddeeis,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  Cdksaal, 
with  120  rooms,  1st  class,  R.,  L.,  d:  A.  from  4,  B.  IV4,  dej.  3,  D.  3,  pens, 
from  9  fr. ;  Hotel  Pauwels  D'Hondt,  large,  L.  1/2,  B.  1.  D.  2V2-3,  S.  13/4-2, 
pens.  8-15  fr.  :  Hotel  Victoria.  D.  at  1  and  5  p.m.  3  fr.,  S.  at  7  p.m.  2  fr., 
plat  du  jour  1  fr. ;  Hotel  de  l'Oc£an,  moderate-,  Hotel  de  Venise;  Ho- 
tel de  l'Univeks.  Farther  to  the  W.,  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbour, 
Hotel  du  Phare,  D.  21/2  fr. 

In  the  Town.  In  the  Rue  de  TEglise,  close  to  the  principal  approach 
to  the  Digue:  Hotel  dd  Lion  d'Or;  *Etoile  d'Or,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  31/2-4V-*, 
B.  1,  D.  21/2,  pens.  8-10,  board  0-51/2  fr.  Farther  on  in  the  Rue  de  TEglise, 
on  the  wav  from  the  Digxxe  to  the  railway-station :  Hotel  d'Allemagne, 
R.  3-4,  L.  i|4-V2,  D.  21/2,  pens.  7-10,  board  5  fr. ;  Hotel  de  la  Paix,  D.  2V2, 
pens.  71/2-9  fr. ;  Hotel  Troch,  Rue  Haute;  Hotel  de  Gand,  RueLongue; 
'Grand  Hotel  dHondt,  Rue  de  TEglise  22,  much  resorted  to  by  Belgians 
of  the  middle  class,  pension  8-10  fr.  Adjacent  is  the  boarding  house  of 
Dr.  Verhaeghe.  Rue  Longue,  pension  8-10  fr.,  with  dependance  near  the 
ascent  to  the  Digue;  Hotel  de  Bruges,  Rue  des  Pecheurs  53,  with 
several  'dependance'''';  T£te  d'Or,  same  street  IS,  D.  at  1p.m.  2,  S.  at 
7  p.m.  11/2  fr.,  both  well  spoken  of.  —  Near  the  station:  Hotel  du  Chemin 
DE  Fer,  Mille  Colonnes  (D.  2  fr.) ,  Le  Petit  Rouge,  Hotel  du  Littoral, 
which  may  all  be  described  as  restaurants  with  rooms  to  let.  —  Those 
who  do  not  mean  to  make  any  stay  in  a  hotel  should  announce  at  once 
that  they  do  not  wish  to  be  received  'en  pension',  otherwise  the  pension 
price  is  charged  also  for  the  day  after  the  departure. 

On  the  Digue  are  situated  numerous  Hotels  Garnis,  in  which  rooms 
facing  the  sea  cost  4-15  fr.  per  day  (with  two  beds  2  fr.  extra).  In  the 
town  furnished  apartments  abound  in  almost  every  street  (2-5  fr.  per  day), 
but  are  sometimes  all  engaged  in  the  height  of  the  season.  Those  who  have 
not  previously  written  for  rooms  should  arrange  to  reach  Blankenberghe 


8     Route  i\  BLANKENBERGHE. 

early  in  the  day,  so  that  they  may  return  to  Bruges  the  same  evening  in 
case  of  disappointment.  The  following  houses  are  recommended:  Dr. 
Cosi/n,  Rue  du  Moulin  23;  Dr.  van  Mullem,  Grande  Maison  Leroy,  Rue  de 
rEglise. 

Cafes  and  Restaurants.  At  the  Grand-JIdlel  des  Dains,  see  p.  7,  ddj. 
3,  D.  5  fr. ;  at  the  other  hotels-,  also  the  Casino,  to  which  subscribers 
only  are  admitted,  D.  at  1.30  and  5  o'clock  2"2-5,  S.  at  7  o'clock;  Deutsche* 
Bierhaus.  Euc  des  Pecheurs;  Cave  de  Munich,  in  the  Hotel  de  TUnivers, 
etc.  — Wine  and  Oysters  at  Le/ebure's,  line  de  I'Eglise  14. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Cos>/n,  see  above;  also,  Drs.  van  den  Abeele,  Dutaye,  van 
der  Ghint.  Schramme,  and  others,  who  come  over  from  Bruges  in  the  season. 

Bathing  Machines  Ifr.,  children  40  c.  ;  the  attendants  expect  a  trifling 
fee  from  regular  bathers.  —  T.enis,  for  protection  against  sun  and  wind 
(not  against  rain),  may  be  hired  on  the  beach  for  1  fr.  per  day.  —  Bath- 
ing Dresses  may  be  purchased  in  the  town  for  5-8  fr.  —  Warm  Baths  in 
the  Grand  Hotel  des  Bains,  see  p.  7. 

Boats.   For  a  row  of  1-2  hrs.  the  charge  is  5  fr.  ;  for  a  party  1  fr.  each. 

Donkeys  for  rides  on  the  beach  :  per  1/2  hr.  50  c. ;  to  Jlei/st  2-3  fr. 

'ia  Vigie  de  la  C6te\  published  on  Sundays,  contains  a  list  of  the  visi- 
tors, tide-tables,  etc.  —  Balls  daily  at  the  Cursaal  during  the  season,  for 
subscribers. 

English  Church  Service  during  the  season  at  the  Chapel  in  theEue  Breydel 
at  10.45  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m. ;  chaplain.  Rev.  A.  V.  H.  Hallett  of  Bruges  (p.'12). 

Blankenherghe,  12  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Ostend  and  9  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Bruges,  a  small  fishing-town  with  about  4000  inhab.,  consists 
of  small  one-storied  houses ,  and  resembles  Scheveningen  (R.  39). 
It  first  came  into  notice  as  a  sea-bathing  place  in  1840,  and  of  late 
has  become  a  rival  of  Ostend,  being  visited  by  10,000  persons  an- 
nually (30,000,  if  passing  travellers  be  included)^  It  is,  however, 
quieter  and  somewhat  less  expensive.  Handsome  new  buildings 
are  on  the  increase,  and  a  theatre  has  been  begun. 

The  'dunes'  (downs,  or  sand-hills)  are  paved  so  as  to  form  a 
kind  of  'digue',  like  that  at  Ostend,  which  affords  a  promenade 
22  yds.  wide  and  upwards  of  1  M.  in  length,  flanked  with  hotels  and 
villas  and  provided  with  the  electric  light.  On  the  right,  or  N.E. 
side  of  the  central  approach,  adjoining  the  Grand  Hotel  des  Families, 
is  the  large  Casino,  the  concert-room  of  which  can  accommodate  4000 
persons.  In  front  of  the  hotels  is  a  Band  Stand,  the  position  of 
which  is  altered  from  time  to  time.  At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Digue 
rises  the  Lighthouse,  situated  at  the  entrance  of  a  small  Harbour, 
constructed  for  the  use  of  the  fishing-boats,  many  of  which,  however, 
continue  as  of  old  to  be  hauled  up  on  the  beach.  Like  that  of  Ostend 
the  harbour  is  protected  from  silting  by  piers,  which  extend  into 
the  sea  for  about  350  yds.   The  pier-heads  are  provided  with  seats. 

Lisseweghe,  4V2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Blankenherghe,  was  a  flourishing 
town  in  the  Middle  Ages,  but  now  has  only  1800  inhabitants.  It  has  a 
small  station  on  the  Bruges  railway,  from  which,  however,  it  is  1  M. 
distant  (see  p.  10).  The  Church,  a  handsome  structure  of  the  13ih  century 
in  the  transition  style,  formerly  belonged  to  an  abbey,  and  has  been 
restored  with  little  taste.  At  the  end  of  the  left  aisle  is  a  Visitation  by 
J.  van  Cost  the  Elder.  The  truncated  tower,  although  two-thirds  of  it 
only  are  completed,  is  a  very  conspicuous  object  in  the  landscape.  A 
huge  barn  (now  a  farm),  with  immense  oaken  beams,  dating  from  1230, 
is  the  solitary  relic  of  the  wealthy  abbey  of  Ter  Doest. 

From  Blankenbekghe  to  Ostend,  steam-tramway  in  11/4  hr.,  see  p.  3. 
At  (3  M.)  Wenduyne  {Pavilion  des  Dunes;    Cafi  Bienvenue  des  Etrangers; 


HEYST.  2.  Route.     9 

Ca/i  des  Etrangers,  pens.  5-0  fr.),  a  small  sea-bathing  place,  is  an  extensive 
hospice  fur  delicate  children  (230  beds).  —  51/2  M.  Den  Haan  (Edt.  den 
Haan  or  Le  Coq^  pen''.  6-7,  D.  at  1  p.m.  21/2  fr.,  sea-bath  and  costume  3/4  fr.) 
is  another  small  bathing  resort,  recently  established  among  the  dunes, 
which  are  here  1/2  31.  broad.  The  afforesting  of  the  latter,  begun  in  1835, 
was  recommenced  by  government  in  1S88.  —  The  walk  along  the  beach 
from  Blankenberghe  to  Eeyst  is  about  the  same  distance  (572  31.). 
Railway  to  Bruges  and  to  Heyst,  see  p.  10. 


Heyst.  —  Hotels  and  Pensions.  On  the  Digue:  *CnESAAL,  'pension' 
7-11  fr. ;  Grand  Hotel,  on  the  seaward  side  of  the  Cursaal-,  Gkand  Hotel 
DES  Baixs,  new,  D.  21/2,  pens.  from5fr.;  Hotel  de  la  Plage,  frequented 
by  the  Roman  Catholic  clergy,  E.,  L.,  &  A.  23/4-33/4,  B.  1.  dej.  li/o,  D.  21/2, 
pens.  6-8,  board  5  fr. ;  Hotel  de  Bruges,  pens,  from  G  fr.,  good  cuisine; 
Maison  des  Fakilles  .  pens.  6-7 fr.;  Hotel  du  Phare,  recently  enlarged, 
150  rooms,  R.  from  3-5,  L.  <fc  A.  1/2,  B.  1.  D.  21/2,  pens  6-10,  board  5  fr., 
well  spoken  of ;  Hotel  Eotal,  Hotel  de  Flaxdre.  smaller;  Hotel  Garni 
de  rOcfeAN,  to  the  landward  of  the  Cursaal.  —  In  the  Village^  a  few  minute-s' 
walk  from  the  beach  (all  unpretending) :  Pavillon  des  Ddnes  ;  Hotel  de 
Namur;  Hotel  du  Rivage  ;  Hotel  de  la  Marine;  Hotel  Leopold  II., 
B.  1,  D.  2,  S.  11/2,  pens.  4-6  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  Pauwels,  quite 
unpretending.  —  Bath  75  c. ;  arrangements  somewhat  deficient.  —  Donkeys 
1  fr.  per  hour.  —  The  Railway  Station  lies  in  the  centre  of  the  village, 
about  100  yds.  from  the  Digue.  Railway  to  Blankenberghe  (1/4  hr.)  and 
Bruges,  see  next  page. 

Heyst,  a  village  with  2500  inhab. ,  the  terminus  of  the  rail- 
way mentioned  at  p.  10,  is  also  a  sea-bathing  resort  and  attracts 
upwards  of  3000  visitors  annually.  As  at  Ostend  and  Blankenberghe, 
there  is  here  a  long  Digue,  22  yds.  broad,  paved  with  brick,  and 
flanked  with  lodging-houses  and  restaurants,  besides  the  above- 
mentioned  hotels.  —  The  village  possesses  a  large  brick  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  in  the  Gothic  style. 

About  1/2  ^I-  to  the  S.W.  of  Heyst  are  the  mouths  of  two  ca- 
nals {Canal  de  derivation  de  la  Lys,  constructed  in  1857-63),  which 
drain  an  extensive  plain,  and  are  closed  by  huge  lock-gates.  The 
unpleasant  odour  from  the  canal-water  is  noticeable  at  ebb-tide 
even  at  Heyst  when  the  wind  is  from  the  W. ,  and  is  not  without 
effect  on  the  healthiness  of  the  place. 

From  Heyst  to  Bruges,  about  13  M.,  steam-tramway  in  about  IV2  hr. 
—  2'/2M.  Knokke  {Grand  Hotel  de  Knokke,  pens.  5  fr.,'  well  spoken  of; 
bath  1,2  fr.),  a  small  seaside  resort,  I1/4  M.  from  the  beach,  with  a  life- 
boat station  and  a  lighthouse.  The  dunes  (80  ft.  high)  afford  a  view  of 
Flushing  and  the  island  of  Walcheren.  —  372  31.  Westcapelle  (branch-line 
to  Sluis,  see  below);  8  31.  Dudzeele;  Koolkerke;  Bruges^  see  p.  11.  From 
Westcapelle  (see  above),  a  tramway-line  runs  via  Sint  Anna  ter  Muiden, 
a  village  of  Dutch  character,  to  (6  M.)  Sluis,  French  VEcluse  {Ilof  van 
Brui^scl),  a  small  and  ancient  seaport,  situated  beyond  the  Dutch  frontier, 
and  connected  with  (3hrs.)  Bruges  by  a  canal.  Sluis  possesses  a  belfry  of 
the  14th  century.  A  steamer  plies  twice  daily  (except  Sun.)  in  2  hrs.  be- 
tween Sluis  and  Bruges,  leaving  the  former  in  the  morning  and  afternoon 
and  the  latter  in  the  afternoon  and  evening.  There  is  also  a  steam-tram- 
way from  Sluis  to  Afaldeghem  (p.  10 ;  in  I72  hr.)  and  Breskens  (p.  244 ;  in 
2V4  hrs.).  —  A  pleasant  day's  excursion  may  be  made  from  Bruges  to 
Heyst,  Sluis,  etc. ;  returning  from  Sluis  to  Bruges  along  the  canal  which 
is  bordered  with  trees  and  pleasure-grounds,  via  Damme  (p.  27). 

Gadzand  (comp.  p.  27),  a  Dutch  village  recently  frequented  for  sea- 
bathing, lies  to  the  N.  of  Sluis  (I72  hr.  by  carriage),  and  may  be  reached 
from  Knokke  on  foot  along  the  coast  in  2  hrs.  In  the  village  is  the  inn 
'de  Witte  Leeuw' ;  and  on  the  dune  I72  31.  distant,  another  modest  inn, 
with  rooms  to  let. 


10 

3.   From  Ostend  to  Brussels  via  Bruges  and  Ghent. 

76  M.  Railway  (Chemin  de  Fer  de  VEtat).  Express  to  Bruges  in  '^hr., 
to  Ghent  in  I'/z  hr.,  to  Brussels  in  2^l\-2^li  brs.  ;  ordinary  trains  in  3/4,  2,  and 
4  hrs.  Fares  to  Bruges  1  fr.  75,  1  fr.  30,  90  c. ;  to  Ghent  4"fr.  90,  3  fr.  60,  2  fr. 
45  c. ;  to  Brussels  9  fr.  ;}0,  G  fr.  95,  4  fr.  65  c  ;  express  one-fourth  more. 

The  express-trains  in  connection  -svith  the  Dover  steamboats 
start  from  the  quay,  the  ordinary  trains  from  the  station  in  the  town. 

Before  [p-j-i  M.)  Oudenhurg  tlie  line  crosses  the  canal  diverging 
from  the  Ostend  canal  to  the  S.W.,  and  leading  via  Nieuport  and 
Fumes  to  Dunkirk.  The  town  lies  to  the  right  in  the  midst  of  a 
sandy  district,  with  an  oasis  of  productive  gardens  which  supply 
Ostend  with  fruit  and  vegetables.  Oudenhurg  is  said  once  to  have 
been  a  flourishing  commercial  town,  and  to  have  been  destroyed  by 
Attila  about  the  middle  of  the  5th  century.  —  82/4  M.  Jabbeke. 

14  M.  Bruges,  see  p.  11,  and  Map,  p.  7. 

Fkom  Bulges  to  Blankenkeughe  (9V.J  *^-)  and  Heyst  (15  M.)  by  rail- 
way in  30  and  50  min.  respectively   (fares   1  fr.  15,  90,  60  c.,   and  1  fr.  85, 

1  fr.  40,  95  c).  The  outside  seats  (3rd  class)  on  the  top  of  the  carriages 
aflord  a  good  survey  of  the  rich  plain  of  Flanders,  but  are  very  draughty. 
—  Stations:  2  M.  Britges-Bassin.  the  port  for  Bruges,  with  ships  and  large 
timber  stores;  5  M.  Di/dzeele;  7  M.  Lisseweghe  (p.  8)5  8  M.  Blankenberghe 
(p.  7);  t5  M.  Het/st  (p.  9). 

To  Thourout  (Courtrai  and  Ypres),  see  p.  32. 

Stations  Oostkamp,  Bloemendael,  [28 M.)  Aeltre  (steam-tramway 
to  Thielt,  see  p.  31 ),  Bellein,  Ilansbeke,  Landeyhem,  Tronchiennes. 
40 V2  M.  Gand-St.  Pierre. 

421/2  M.  Ghent,  see  p.  34.  From  Ghent  to  Antwerp,  see  R.  10; 
to  Courtrai^  see  R.  8. 

From  Ghent  to  Tekneuzen  (26V2  M.)  by  railway  in  IV2  hr.  (fares  3  fr., 

2  fr.  30,  1  fr.  50  c).  The  train  starts  from  the  Station  du  Chemin  de  Fer 
de  TEtat,  stopping  at  the  Station  du  Pays  de  Waes  (seep.  34),  and  then 
follows  the  direction  of  the  canal  mentioned  at  p.  35.  Stations  Wondelgltem 
(see  below),  Langerhrugge.  Terdonck-Clui/sen,  Ertvelde,  Selzaele  (junction  of 
the  line  from  Bruges  to  Lokeren,  p.  63,  and  the  last  Belgian  station),  Sas(/.  c, 
lock)  van  Ghent  (the  first  Dutch  station,  where  the  locks  of  the  above- 
mentioned  canal  arc  situated),  r/iilippine,  Slvijskill,  and  Terneuzen  ( I^'eder- 
landsch  Logement)^  a  small  fortified  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  important 
canal  which  connects  Ghent  with  the  Schclde.  Sleatuhoat  thence  twice 
daily  in  I'/ihr.  to  Flusliing  (p.  243);  omnibus  from  the  station  at  Flushing 
to  the  (3'4  M.)  steamboat-pier. 

From  Ghent  to  Bruges  there  is  a  private  railway  (30  M.),  the  continua- 
tion of  the  Waesland  line  (p.  62),  as  well  as  the  Chemin  de  Fer  de  TEtat. 
Trains  run  in  65-95  min.  (fares  2fr.  70,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  35  c.),  starting  from 
the  Station  d'Eecloo,  on  the  X.E.  side  of  the  town.  Stations  Wondelghem, 
L'verghem,  Sleydinge^  Wacrschoot,  Eecloo  (a  busy  town  with  10,400  inhab., 
where  the  Bruges,  Selzaete,  and  Lokeren  line  diverges  to  the  right),  Bal- 
gerhoeke,  Adeghem,  Maldeghem  (branch-line  to  Breskens  \ia,  Sluis,  see  p.  9), 
Donck^  Si/seele,  Steenbrugge,  and  Bruges  (p.  11). 

45  M.  Melle  (p.  62),  beyond  which  a  line  diverges  to  the  S.  to 
Ath  (p.  69) ,  Quatrecht ,  Wetteren,  and  Schellebelle ,  where  the  line 
to  Malines  diverges  to  the  left  (p.  62). 

561/2  M.  Alost,  Flem.  Aalst  (Hotel  de  Flandre,  Hot.  des  Arcades, 
both  at  the  station;  Due  de  Brabant ;  Mille  Colonnes) ,  a  town  with 
23,100  inhab.,   on  the  Dendre ,    was  formerly  the  capital  of  the 


BRUGES.  4.  Route.     1 1 

county  of  Keher-Vlaanderen ,  and  the  frontier-town  of  the  province 
in  this  direction.  A  considerable  trade  in  hops  is  carried  on  here. 
The  Church  of  St.  Martin,  in  the  late-Gothic  style  (ahout  149S\  is 
little  more  than  a  fragment,  two-thirds  of  the  nave,  as  well  as  the 
tower  and  portal,  being  entirely  wanting.  It  contains  an  admirable 
picture  by  Rubens,  said  to  have  been  painted  in  1631  in  one  week : 
Christ  appointing  St.  Rochus  tutelary  saint  of  the  plague-stricken. 
The  museum  at  Ghent  possesses  a  copy  of  this  work.  A  statue  by 
Jos.  Gtefs  was  erected  in  1856  in  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  to 
Thierry  Maertens,  the  first  Belgian  printer,  who  exercised  his  craft 
at  Alost.  The  beautiful  belfry  of  the  Hotel  de  Yille  was  thoroughly 
restored  after  a  fire  in  1879.  The  old  town-hall,  built  early  in  the 
13th  cent.,  is  now  a  meat-market. 

Fkom  Alost  to  Antwerp,  30  M.,  railway  in  13/4  lir-  (fares  3  fr.  65, 
2fr.  75,  1  fr.  So  c).  —  P/t  31.  Moorsel.  51/2  M.  Opwyck ,  the  junctii.n  of 
the  Brussels,  Dendermonde,  and  Ghent  railway  (p.  62)  ;  10  M.  Steenhuffel, 
with  a  church  containing  stained  glass  of  the  16th  cent. ;  12  M.  Londevzeel., 
the  junction  of  the  Malines  and  Ghent  line  (p.  135j  ;  20  31.  Boom,  see  p.  62  ; 
24  M.  Eemixem,  with  an  old  Bernardine  abbey,  now  a  prison.  —  27  BI. 
Hoboken,  near  the  Schelde,  with  numerous  villas  of  Antwerp  merchants 
and  a  large  ship-building  vard  belonging  to  the  Cockerill  establishment 
tp.  213l.    Branch-line  to  Oude  God  (p.  135).  —  30  M.  Antwerp,  see  p.  136. 

Stations  Eremhodeghem ,  (61  M.)  Denderleeuw  (where  a  line 
diverges  to  Ninove  and  Ath,  p.  69),  Esschene-Lombeek,  Temath, 
Bodeghem-Saint-Martin ,  Dilbeek,  Berchem-Sainte-Agathe ,  Jette 
(where  the  Dendermonde  line  diverges),  and  Laeken  (p.  114), 
where  the  royal  chateau  is  seen  on  the  left.  The  train  finally  stops 
at  the  Station  du  Nord  at  (76  M.)  Brussels  (p.  72). 

4.   Bruges. 

Hotels.  *HoTEL  DE  Flandre  (PL  a ;  B,  5),  Rue  Kord-du-Sablon  3S,  R. 
3-5,  A.  34,  L.  3/4,  B.  iV2,  de'j.  31,2,  D.  4,  pens.  8-10  fr.;  *Grand  Hotel  du 
Commerce  (PI.  b;  B,  4),  Rue  St.  .Jacques  20,  an  old-established  and  com- 
fortable familv-hotel,   frequented  by  English  travellers,   R.  2V2-4,    L.  '/a, 

A.  3/4,  B.  1'/,,'  D.  at  1  p.m.  3,  at  6  p.m.  31/2  fr.-,  *Hotkl  i>d  Sablon  (PI.  n; 

B,  5),  Rue  Xurd-du-Sablun;  ''Hotel  de  l'Univee.s  (PI.  c;  A,  5l,  conveniently 
situated  for  passing  travellers;  charges  at  these  two:  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2'/2-3, 
B.  1-11/4,  dej.  2,  D.  21/2,  pens.  7-8  fr. ;  -Hotel  de  Londees  (PI.  d;  A,  5), 
at  the  station,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2-3,  B.  1,  D.  21/2  fr.,  with  frequented  cafe- 
restaurant;  CoMTE  DE  Flandre,  Singe  d'Or  (PI.  e;  A,  5),  with  cafe's,  oppo- 
site the  station:  Hotel  St.  Amand  (PI.  f;  B,  5).  Rue  St.  Amand,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  23/4-33/4.  B.  1,  D.  21/2.  pens.  71/2  fr. ;  these  three  well  spoken  of;  Hotel 
DE  l'Ocrs  d'Or  (PI.  g ;  B,  o).  Rue  Courte  d'Argent ;  Panier  d'Or  (PI.  h ;  B,  4), 
opposite  the  covered  market,  on  the  X.  side  of  the  large  market-place, 
with  cafe-restaurant,  unpretending,  R.  &  B.  21/2,  D-  2,  S.  I1/2  fr. 

Cafes-Restaurants.  In  the  hotels  ;  Caf^  Foy  (PI.  i;  C,  5),  in  the  Grande 
Place,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Philipp  Stok  ;  Grand  Cafi.,  Grande  Place,  at 
the  corner  of  the  Rue  des  Pierres  ;  Trois  Suisses,  Rue  Philipp  Stok ;  Vogel, 
Grande  Place  (Jlunich  beer). 

Baths.    Bains  St.  Sauveur,  at  the  back  of  the  cathedral  (PI.  B,  5). 

Cabs  1  fr.  per  drive  ;  one  hour  IV2  fr. ,  each  additional  1/2  br.  75  c  ; 
open  carriages  l'/2,  2,  and  1  fr.  respectively. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Rue  de  Cordoue  (PI.  7;  C,  4)  and  at  the 
Gare  Centrale  (PI.  A,  5). 


12     Routed.  BRUGES.  History. 

Steam-Tramway  to  Heyst^  via  Westcapeile  (branch  to  Sluis,  p.  9)  and 
Knolke  (p.  9).  The  cars  start  from  the  railway-station  and  halt  at  various 
poinis  in  the  town. 

English  Church,  Rue  des  Baudots;  services  at  11  and  7  (5.30  in  winter)  ; 
chaplain,  Rev.  A.  V.  Hughes  Eallett,  M.  A.,  Rue  du  Vieux  Sac  30. 

Principal  Attractions:  Cathedral  (j).  13),  Hospital  of  St.  John  (p.  18), 
Notre  Dame  (p.  15),  Chapelle  du  Saint-Sang  (p.  23),  Palais  de  Justice  (p.  25), 
Museum  (p.  20),  Hotel  de  Ville  (p.  23),  Belfry  (p.  21). 

Bruges.,  Flem.  Brugge,  the  capital  of  W.  Flanders,  lies  71/2  M, 
from  the  North  Sea,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  two  deep  canals, 
navigable  for  sea-going  vessels  of  considerable  tonnage.  One  of  these 
terminates  at  Sluis  (I'Ecluse  ;  pp.  9,  244),  the  other  at  Ostend.  There 
are  also  canals  from  Bruges  to  Ghent,  Ypres,  Nieuport,  and  Furnes. 
The  formation  of  a  harbour  for  sea-going  ships  is  contemplated. 
The  broad  streets  and  numerous  old  houses,  chiefly  of  late-Gothic 
architecture,  recall  its  ancient  glory;  and  of  all  the  cities  of  Belgium, 
Bruges  has  best  preserved  its  mediaeval  characteristics  (p.  xl).  With 
the  exception  of  the  quarter  between  the  large  market-place  and 
the  railway-station,  the  town  now  presents  a  melancholy  and  deserted 
appearance.  Nearly  one-fourth  of  the  47,000  inhab.  are  said  to  be 
paupers. 

In  the  14th  cent.  Bruges  (which  in  Flemish  means  bridges,  a  name 
due  to  the  numerous  bridges  crossing  the  canals)  was  the  great  com- 
mercial centre  of  Europe.  Factories,  or  privileged  trading  companies 
from  seventeen  different  kingdoms  had  settled  here ;  twenty  foreign 
ministers  resided  within  the  waUs ;  and  inhabitants  of  remote  dis- 
tricts, of  which  the  very  names  were  almost  unknown ,  visited  the 
renowned  city  every  year.  Early  in  the  13th  cent.  Bruges  became 
one  of  the  great  marts  of  the  Hanseatic  League  and  of  the  English 
wool  trade.  Lombards  and  Venetians  conveyed  hither  the  products 
of  India  and  Italy,  and  returned  home  with  the  manufactures  of 
England  and  Germany.  Richly-laden  vessels  from  Venice,  Genoa, 
and  Constantinople  might  be  seen  simultaneously  discharging  their 
cargoes  here,  and  the  magazines  of  Bruges  groaned  beneath  the 
weight  of  English  wool,  Flemish  linen,  and  Persian  silk.  In  1302, 
when  Johanna  of  Navarre,  with  her  husband  Philippe  le  Bel  of  France, 
visited  Bruges  and  beheld  the  sumptuous  costumes  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, she  is  said  to  have  exclaimed :  '  I  imagined  myself  alone  to 
be  queen,  but  I  see  hundreds  of  persons  here  whose  attire  vies  with 
my  own.'  Bruges  was  long  the  residence  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders. 
It  attained  the  culminating  point  of  its  prosperity  during  the 
lirst  half  of  the  15th  cent.,  when  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy  held  their 
court  here.  During  this  period  a  brilliant  colony  of  artists  was 
retained  at  Bruges  in  busy  employment,  and  their  works  still  shed 
a  lustre  on  the  name  of  the  city. 

The  *Eailway  Station,  a  tasteful  Gothic  structure,  is  in  the  old 
Marchie  du  Vendredi  (PI.  A,  5).  Here,  on  30th  March,  1128,  the 
townspeople,  after  having  elected  Count  Theodoric  of  Alsace  to  be 
Count  of  Flanders ,  returned  the  following  spirited  answer  to  the 


Cathedral.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     13 

deputies  of  the  king  of  France,  who  had  sent  to  object  to  their  choice : 
'Go,  tell  your  master  that  he  is  perjured;  that  his  creature  William 
of  Normandy  (usurper  of  the  sovereignty  of  Flanders)  has  rendered 
himself  unworthy  of  the  crown  by  his  infamous  extortions  ;  that  we 
have  elected  a  new  sovereign,  and  that  it  becomes  not  the  king  of 
France  to  oppose  us.  That  it  is  our  privilege  alone,  as  burghers  and 
nobles  of  Flanders,  to  choose  our  own  master.' 

To  the  right  in  the  street  leading  from  the  railway-station  into  the 
town  is  situated  the  Cathedral  (^St.  Sauveur;  PI.  B,  5),  an  early- 
Gothic  brick  structure  of  the  13th  and  14th  cent,  (choir,  end  of 
13th  cent. ;  nave  and  transept,  1358-62;  the  live  chapels  of  the 
choir,  1482-1527;  vaulting  of  the  ambulatory,  1527-30).  Externally 
it  is  a  cumbrous  building,  destitute  of  a  portal,  disfigured  by  later 
additions ,  and  surmounted  by  a  W.  tower  resembling  a  castle,  the 
lower  part  of  which  dates  back  to  the  r2th  cent.,  while  the  upper 
part  was  completed  in  1843. 

The  *Interior  is  remarkable  for  its  fine  proportions,  and  is 
adorned  with  numerous  paintings  (sacristan  1  fr. ,  more  for  a  party). 
It  measures  110  yds.  in  length,  41  yds.  in  breadth,  and  across  the 
transept  58  yds.,  and  is  90  ft.  high.  The  modern  polychrome  de- 
coration is  by  Jean  Bethune. 

xSORTH  Aisle  (^left).  The  entrance  doorway,  the  carved  doors 
of  which  have  been  removed  to  the  Ancien  Greff e  (p.23) ,  is  surmount- 
ed by  five  groups  of  carved  wood,  painted  and  gilded,  representing 
scenes  from  the  Passion,  and  dating  from  about  1460.  —  At  the  en- 
trance of  the  Baptistery  are  two  monumental  *Brasses,  the  one  on 
the  right,  of  excellent  design,  dating  from  1439,  that  on  the  left 
from  1518.  This  chapel  contains  a  Crucifixion,  painted  about  1390 
by  an  unknown  master  of  the  Cologne  school,  and  a  handsome  can- 
delabrum of  wrought  iron.  *P.  Pourbus,  Last  Supper,  with  Abra- 
ham, Melchisedech,  and  Elijah  on  the  wings  ;  on  the  outside,  Christ 
appearing  to  one  of  the  Popes,  and  13  good  portraits  of  brothers  of 
the  Order  of  the  Holy  Sacrament  (1559).  Another  picture  (16th  cent.) 
represents  scenes  from  the  lives  of  SS.  Joachim  and  Anna. 

On  the  West  Wall:  Jacob  van  Oost  the  Elder  (1600-1671; 
in  the  17th  cent,  the  chief  painter  of  Bruges,  which  still  contains  a 
number  of  his  works).  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  (left)  the  portrait 
of  the  master,  (right)  that  of  his  son ;  Jan  van  Hoeck,  Crucifixion.  To 
the  left  of  the  square  space  under  the  tower :  Backereel,  St.  Carlo 
Borromeo  administering  the  Eucharist  to  persons  sick  of  the  plague ; 
Van  Oost,  Triumph  of  Christ  over  Time  and  Death;  Seghers, 
Adoration  of  the  Magi.  —  Above  the  S.  entrance  door  is  an  altar- 
piece  of  the  15th  cent.,  in  carved  wood  and  gilded,  representing 
the  Holy  Family  and  various  saints. 

S.  Aisle  :  *Dierick  Bouts,  erroneously  ascribed  to  Memling,  Mar- 
tyrdom of  St.  Hippolytus  (covered). 

The  principal  picture  represents  the  saint  about  to  be  torn  to  pieces 
by  four  horses,  mounted,   or   led  by  men   on  foot.     The  unfounded  local 


14     Routed.  BRUGES.  Calhedral. 

legend  is  that  these  horses  were  copied  hy  Memling  from  the  famous 
horses  of  St.  Mark  at  Venice.  The  most  pleasing  part  of  the  picture  is 
the  landscape  in  the  backtiround,  which  possesses  greater  depth  and  a 
better  atmosphere  than  most  of  the  landscapes  of  the  Van  Eyck  school. 
On  the  left  wing  is  a  scene  from  the  life  of  St.  Hippolytus,  on  the  right 
the  donor  and  his  wife  in  a  beautiful  landscape.  —  The  saints  on  the 
outside  of  the  wings  are  by  an  inferior  hand. 

Farther  on  in  the  S.  aisle :  Crucifixion,  erroneously  attributed 
to  Gerard  van  der  Metre  (covered).  Then,  Jan  Maes  (18th  cent.}, 
SS.  Agatha  and  Dorothea. 

Transept  :  Modern  stained  glass  by  Dobbelaer  (1861}.  A  heavy 
marble  rood-loft,  in  the  Baroque  style,  constructed  by  Corn,  ver 
Hoeve  in  1679-82,  separates  the  transept  from  the  clioir.  The 
colossal  statue  of  God  the  Father  above  it  is  by  A.  Quellin  the 
Younger  (IQSTj.  —  Two  chapels  adjoin  the  transept.  On  the 
right  is  tiie  Chapel  of  St.  Barbara^  with  a  handsome  door  (loth 
cent.l,  and  modern  Gothic  altar.  The  Chapel  of  the  Shoemakers'' 
Guild  (Chapelle  des  Cordonniers),  on  the  left,  possesses  a  finely- 
carved  door  dating  from  the  latter  half  of  the  loth  cent.,  and  con- 
tains a  carved  wooden  Crucifix,  of  the  14th  cent.,  a  winged  pict- 
ure representing  the  members  of  the  guild ,  by  Fr.  Pourbus  the 
Younger  (1608),  and  several  interesting  brasses  (on  the  left, 
*Walter  Copman,  1387,  and  Martin  de  Visch,  1453 ;  on  the  right, 
the  learned  Schelewaerts,  1483,  and  Adr.  Bave  with  his  wife  and 
son,  1555). 

The  Choir  contains  two  large  marble  monuments  of  the  bishops 
CastilUon  (d.  1753)  and  Susteren  (d.  1742),  both  by  Pulinx.  High- 
altarpiece ,  Resurrection  \)yJanssens;  Van  Oost  the  Elder,  Peter 
and  John.  The  Gothic  choir-stalls  date  from  1478,  but  have  been 
frequently  altered.  They  are  adorned  with  the  armorial  bearings  of 
the  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece  (Toison  d'Or),  which  was  founded 
at  Bruges  by  Philip  the  Good,  Duke  of  Burgundy  and  the  Nether- 
lands, on  10th  Jan.,  1429,  on  the  occasion  of  his  marriage  with 
Isabella,  daughter  of  John  I.  of  Portugal. 

Ambulatory  (beginning  at  theN.  or  left  transept).  A.  Claeissens, 
Descent  from  the  Cross  (winged  picture);  J.  van  Oost,  the  Saviour 
predicting  his  Passion  to  his  Mother,  and  His  last  interview  with 
his  Mother  before  the  Passion.  —  1st  Chapel:  Handsome  door  of 
1513;  altar  of  1517,  with  a  beautiful  painted  crucifix;  on  the 
wall  to  the  left,  two  memorial  tablets  of  copper  (1387  and  1457); 
opposite,  a  tasteful  coat-of-arms  of  the  16th  cent.  ;  modern  stained 
glass  by  J.  Bethune.  —  2nd  Chapel :  above  the  altar,  ^Unknown 
Master  of  the  15th  Century,  the  Virgin  and  St.  Bernard.  By  the 
pillar  opposite :  marble  tomb  of  Jan  de  Schietere  (d.  1575)  and  his 
wife,  with  a  Crucifixion  and  figures  of  the  married  couple  and  their 
patron-saints,  by  G-'.  de  Witte.  —  3rd  Chapel :  Stained  glass  of  the 
16th  cent. ;  Jac.  van  Oost  the  Elder,  The  infant  Saviour  in  the 
workshop  of  his  father  Joseph,  painted  for  the  guild  of  carpenters ; 
i«liquary  of  Charles  the  Good,  Count  of  Flanders  (assassinated  in 


Notre  Dame.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     1  5 

11*27);  tomb  of  Bishop  Carondelet,  1544;  Meinderhout.  Battle  of 
Lepanto  ;  Van  Oost,  Flight  into  Egypt.  —  The  4th  Chapel  contains 
nothing  worthy  of  note.  —  5th  Chapel,  at  the  hack  of  the  high-altar : 
modern  stained  glass  hy  J.  Bef^rune  (^1861) ;  Pieta,  a  gilded  copper 
relief  by  P.  Wolfyanck.  —  6th  Chapel :  by  the  first  pillar  to  the  left, 
Unknown  Master  of  the  15th  Century.  Mater  Dolorosa,  on  a  gold 
ground;  to  the  right.  Portrait  of  Philippe  le  Bel  (son  of  Maximi- 
lian I.  and  father  of  the  Enip.  Charles  Y.)  on  a  gold  ground,  master 
unknown  (about  1505).  The  inscription  below  styles  him  ^Philippiis 
Stok'  (a  sobriquet  applied  to  him  by  the  citizens  of  Bruges  in  allusion 
to  his  habit  of  carrying  a  stick),  and  mentions  him  as  the  founder 
of  the  ^Broederscap  der  Wee'n'  (i.e. ,  the  'brotherhood  of  suffering'), 
a  fraternity  which  still  exists.  In  the  floor  two  monumental  brasses, 
the  one,  richly  gilt  and  enamelled,  being  that  of  John  van  Coudcn- 
berghe  (d.  15'25),  the  other  that  of  Bernhardin  van  den  Hoeve 
(d.  1517).  —  7th  Chapel :  A.  Janssens  (d.  1631),  Adoration  of  the 
Shepherds ;  M.  de  Vos.  Consecration  of  St.  Eligius.  —  Farther  on 
in  the  ambulatory :  to  the  left,  Jan  Er.  Quellin,  St.  Simon  Stock 
receiving  the  scapulary  from  the  Virgin ;  by  the  pillar  opposite.  Tomb 
of  164'2,  with  statuette  after  Michael  Angelo's  Madonna ;  Van  Baelen, 
Assumption. 

The  Chambre  des  MarguilUers,  or  Churchwardens'  Vestry,  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  S.  aisle  (p.  13),  contains  several  works  of  art  for- 
merly hung  in  the  church  itself.  Among  these  are  four  small  pictures 
by  Coninxloo  (?):  the  Paschal  Lamb,  Manna,  David  dancing  before 
the  Ark  of  the  Covenant,  and  the  Disciples  at  Emmaus.  Also  a 
small  and  fine  wooden  relief  of  the  14th  cent.,  representing  the 
crowning  of  St.  Eligius  (Sacre  de  St.  Eloil.  The  ivory  crozier  of 
St.  Maclou  (6th  cent.),  some  ancient  missals,  and  other  relics  are 
preserved  in  a  cabinet  here. 

*Notre  Dame  (Flem.  Onze  Vrouw;  PI.  B,  6),  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  another  Gothic  structure,  was  originally  erected  on  the  site 
of  an  earlier  chapel  in  the  l^th  cent.,  but  in  its  present  form  dates 
from  the  13-15th  centuries.  The  tower,  390  ft.  high,  was  restored 
in  1854-58,  and  provided  with  turrets  at  the  angles  in  1873.  The 
small  late-Gothic  *Addition  on  the  N.  side  was  originally  a  portal, 
named  'Het  Paradys',  and  is  now  fitted  up  as  a  baptistery  (sec 
below).    The  church  contains  some  admirable  works  of  art. 

The  INTERIOR  (sacristan,  who  shows  the  pictures,  ^j-r-i  fr.  for 
one  person ;  additional  fee  for  the  burial-chapel,  see  p.  17)  is  80  yds. 
long ,  55  yds.  broad ,  and  70  ft.  high ,  and  consists  of  a  nave  and 
double  aisles,  without  a  transept.  The  outer  aisles  with  their  rows 
of  chapels  date  from  1344-60  (N.  side)  and  1450-74  (8.  side). 
Round  the  choir  runs  an  ambulatory. 

North  Aisles.  Pictures  by  J.  Maes ,  J.  A.  Gaeremyn ,  and 
other  painters  of  the  18th  century.  Also,  in  a  niche  covered  with 
a  Gothic  canopy,  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  dating  from  1485  (?).    The 


16     Routed.  BRUGES.  Notre  Dame. 

Baptistery  was  once  a  doorway  (see  p.  15).  The  Chapelle  de  la  Ste. 
Croix,  at  the  end  of  the  outer  aisle,  fitted  up  in  1437,  contains 
some  worthless  paintings ,  representing  the  History  of  the  Cross. 

West  Wall  :  De  Crnyer,  Adoration  of  the  Infant  Jesus,  with 
numerous  saints,  an  excellent  work,  1662;  Francken,  Mary  Magda- 
lene at  the  feet  of  Christ ;  Seghers,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  with  saints 
(considered  the  painter's  masterpiece ) ;  large  winged  picture,  re- 
presenting in  the  middle  the  Crucifixion ,  and  on  the  wings  the 
Bearing  of  the  Cross,  the  Crown  of  Thorns,  the  Descent  from  the 
Cross,  and  Christ  in  Hades,  begun  hy  B.  van  Orley,  and  restored 
hy  Pourbus  the  Younger  in  1589  after  the  iconoclastic  outrages. 

South  Aisles.  3rd  Chapel :  Ant.  Claeissens  (?),  Virgin  and 
Child  in  a  landscape,  with  portraits  of  the  donor  Nic.  van  Thienen 
and  his  wife,  and  the  Annunciation  in  grisaille  on  the  wings ;  to 
the  right,  a  triptych  of  the  Virgin,  Child,  and  an  angel,  with  por- 
traits of  Don  Diego  de  Villega,  his  wife  and  children,  by  an  un- 
known painter,  1579. — 4th  Chapel:  *P.  Pourhus,  Transfiguration, 
with  portraits  of  the  donor  Ans.  de  Boodt  and  his  wife,  along  with 
their  patron-saints,  1573  (the  central  picture  appears  to  be  older 
than  the  rest  and  has  been  ascribed  to  Jan  Mostert,  1480) ;  Van 
Oost,  The  Angel  warning  Joseph  and  Mary  to  flee  to  Egypt.  — 
Adjoining  the  confessional :  Herri  met  de  Bles,  Annunciation,  and 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  on  a  gold  ground.  —  Farther  on,  to  the 
right,  Copy  of  Van  Dyck's  Crucifixion ;  tomb  of  Adrian  van  Haves- 
kerke;  above,  P.  Pourbus,  Last  Supper,  1562. 

Over  the  altar,  in  the  old  Chapel  of  the  Host,  in  a  black  marble 
niche,  stands  a  small  **Statue  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  a  life-size 
marble  group  of  exquisite  beauty,  ascribed  to  Michael  Angela,  pro- 
bably identical  with  the  statue  ordered  by  Peter  Moscron,  a  mer- 
chant of  Bruges,  and  erroneously  spoken  of  by  Vasari  as  a  bronze  work. 
It  would  therefore  belong  to  the  great  master's  early  period,  and  date 
from  about  1503.  The  composition  is  undoubtedly  by  Michael  An- 
gelo ,  but  the  execution ,  which  is  delicately  and  softly  rounded, 
was  probably  entrusted  to  one  of  his  pupils.  The  life-size  study  for 
the  head  of  the  Madonna,  by  Michael  Angelo's  own  hand,  is  in  the 
S.  Kensington  Museum.  Horace  Walpole,  who  was  a  great  admirer 
of  art,  is  said  to  have  offered  30,000  fl.  for  the  statue.  The  French 
carried  it  oif  to  Paris  during  the  Revolution. 

Nave.  Pulpitof  1743,  with  reliefs  and  figures(Wisdom  standing 
on  the  terrestrial  globe).  The  nave  is  separated  from  the  choir  by  a 
wooden  rood-loft  of  1722,  above  which  is  a  Crucifix  dating  from  1594. 

Choir.  The  armorial  bearings  above  the  choir-stalls  serve  as 
a  memento  of  the  eleventh  Chapter  of  the  Order  of  the  Golden 
Fleece,  held  here  in  1468.  High-altar  of  the  18th  century. 

In  the  Ambulatory,  beginning  by  the  above-named  Chapel 
of  the  Host:  J.  van  Oost  the  Elder,  St.  Rosalia,  after  Van  Dyck's 
painting  in  the  Belvedere  at  Vienna. 


Notre  Dame.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     17 

Then  in  a  closed  chapel  to  the  right  (1  person  1  fr.;  for  a  party 
Vofr.  each)  the  *Tombs  of  Charles  the  Bold  (d.  1477},  Duke  of 
Burgundy,  and  his  daughter  Mary  (d.  1482),  wife  of  the  Emp. 
Maximilian,  the  last  scions  of  the  House  of  Burgundy  and  of  the 
native  princes  of  the  S.  Netherlands. 

The  life-size  recumbent  figures  of  the  duke  and  his  daughter,  in 
bronze,  richly  gilded,  repose  on  marble  sarcophagi;  at  the  sides  are  the 
enamelled  armorial  bearings  of  the  duchies,  counties,  and  estates  which 
the  princess,  the  richest  heiress  of  that  age,  brought  to  the  House  of 
Austria  on  her  marriage  with  Maximilian.  The  tomb  of  the  Princess,  in 
the  Gothic  style,  and  by  far  the  more  valuable  as  a  work  of  art,  was 
executed  by  Pieler  de  Beckere  of  Brussels  in  1495-1502,  aided  by  five  or 
six  assistants.  The  Duke's  tomb,  an  imitation  of  the  other,  was 
erected  in  1558  by  Philip  II.,  a  descendant  of  Charles  the  Bold,  who  is 
said  to  have  paid  the  sculptor  Jongelincx  of  Antwerp  the  then  very  large 
sum  of  24,395  11.  The  Emp.  Charles  V.  caused  the  remains  of  the  duke, 
his  great-grandfather,  to  be  conveyed  hither  from  Nancy.  The  tomb  of 
Charles  bears  his  motto:  'Je  Tay  empris,  bien  en  aviengne  !'  ('I  have  made 
the  venture;  may  it  prosper!').  The  sumptuousness  of  these  tombs,  the 
historical  associations  attaching  to  the  illustrious  father  and  daughter, 
and  the  touching  story  of  the  death  of  the  latter  in  consequence  of  a  fall 
from  her  horse  while  hunting  with  her  husband  near  Bruges,  all  combine 
to  render  these  monuments  deeply  interesting.  They  were  first  erected 
in  the  choir,  and  only  since  1816  have  they  stood  in  this  chapel,  which 
was  originally  dedicated  to  P.  Lanchals,  unjustly  beheaded  in  1488,  whose 
tombstone  is  still  to  be  seen  to  the  right  of  the  entrance. 

On  the  E.  wall :  ^Unknown  Master  (according  to  "Waagen  by  Jan 
Mostert),  The  Mourning  Mary,  surrounded  by  seven  small  repre- 
sentations of  her  Seven  Sorrows.  On  the  W.  wall;  to  the  right, 
Roger  van  der  Weyden  (?),  Triptych,  Entombment,  with  St.  Mary 
Magdalene  on  the  left,  the  Virgin  on  the  right,  and  on  the  outside 
the  donors  (members  of  the  Danauder  family)  and  saints ;  to  the 
left,  two  wings  of  an  altar,  presented  by  the  Omillard  family,  Fourhus 
the  painter,  with  his  family,  by  himself. 

The  former  Chapel  of  the  Virgin^  behind  the  high-altar,  gaud- 
ily ornamented,  with  an  altar  by  L.  Blanchaert  (1863)  and  stained 
glass  by  J.  Be'thune,  now  contains  the  Host.  Farther  on,  above,  is 
a  richly-carved  Gothic  pew  in  oak,  of  1474,  formerly  the  property 
of  the  family  of  Van  der  Gruuthuyse,  with  whose  house  (see  below), 
it  was  connected  by  a  passage.  Then,  Jac.van  Oost,  Triumph  of  the 
Church,  1652 ;  De  Grayer  ('?),  St.  Thomas  Aquinas  released  from 
prison  by  two  angels ;  under  it  (covered),  Claeissens,  Foundation  of 
the  church  of  St.  Maria  Maggiore  at  Rome ;  opposite.  Van  Oost  the 
Elder,  Calling  of  Matthew  (1640);  Caravaggio,  Christ  at  Emmaus 
(1604).  —  Opposite  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Trinity,  founded  by  the 
Breidel  family,  long  used  as  a  warehouse  but  restored  since  1868. 

The* Gruuthuyse  Palace  (see  above),  adjoining  the  church  on  the 
E.,  with  one  of  the  finest  gable-facades  in  Bruges,  is  at  present 
being  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  Museum  (p.  20).  The  por- 
tion already  completed  contains  a  valuable  collection  of  old  lace 
(adm.  50  c),  presented  to  the  town  by  the  Baroness  Licdt,  whose 
bust,  by  H.  Pickery,  adorns  the  hall. 

Baedekke's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  2 


18     Route  4.  BRUGES.  St.  John's  Hospital. 

A  gateway  (at  which  visitors  ring  on  the  right)  opposite  the  W. 
side  of  Notre  Dame  leads  to  the  "Hospital  of  St.  John  (PI.  B,  6), 
which  has  existed  for  upwards  of  five  centuries ,  and  where  the 
sick  are  attended  by  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  interesting  sculp- 
tures above  the  walled-up  gateway  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  date 
from  the  13th  century.  Strangers  are  admitted  on  week-days,  9-12 
and  1-G  (in  winter  till  4),  on  Sun.  and  holidays  3-5  or  4  (fee  1  fr,). 
(Tickets  admitting  to  this  hospital,  the  Hospice  de  la  Potterie,  and 
the  Hospices  Civils  may  be  obtained  here  for  V/2fT.^ 

The  hospital  contains  a  number  of  **Pictures  by  Memling,  which 
alone  would  amply  repay  a  visit  to  Bruges  (comp.  Introd.,  p.  xli). 
These  are  preserved  in  a  building  in  the  court,  which  was  formerly 
the  chapter-room.  In  the  centre,  on  a  rotatory  pedestal,  is  the  **Chdsse 
of  St.  Ursula,  a  reliquary  of  Gothic  design,  the  scenes  paii^ed  on 
which  form  Memling's  finest  work.  It  is  said  to  have  been  ordered 
by  the  Hospital  in  1480,  and  completed  in  1486. 

'The  shrine  of  St.  Ursula  is  a  Gothic  chapel  in  miniature,  its  long 
sides  being  divided  into  archings  containing  six  episodes,  its  cover  adorn- 
ed with  six  medallions;  one  incident  fills  each  of  the  gables.  In  the 
medallions  are  the  coronation  of  the  Virgin,  the  glory  of  St.  Ursula,  and 
four  angels ;  on  the  gables,  St.  Ursula  shelters  the  band  of  maidens  under 
her  cloak,  and  the  Virgin  in  a  porch  is  worshipped  by  two  hospital  nuns. 
Of  the  six  designs  on  the  long  sides,  one  represents  the  fleet  arriving  at 
Cologne,  where  Ursula  prepares  to  land  with  her  companions.  We  re- 
cognize the  shape  of  the  old  cathedral,  the  steeples  of  several  chur- 
ches ,  and  one  of  the  city  towers ,  most  of  them  true  to  nature  but  not 
in  their  proper  places ;  in  one  of  the  distant  houses  Ursula  sees  the 
vision  of  the  Pope  bidding  her  to  visit  Rome.  Another  scene  is  laid  on 
the  quays  of  Bale,  where  St.  Ursula  has  taken  to  the  shore,  whilst  a  part 
of  her  suite  awaits  its  turn  to  disembark.  A  third  shows  the  Pope  sur- 
rounded by  his  court  in  the  porch  of  a  church  awaiting  St.  Ursula  who 
kneels  on  the  steps  leading  up  to  the  portal.  In  a  gallery  close  by,  the 
British  neophytes  are  baptised  and  confessed,  or  partake  of  the  Hol> 
Communion.  The  Pope,  in  the  fourth  picture,  accompanies  the  maidens 
on  their  return  to  Bale;  he  sits  with  his  cardinals  in  the  vessel  which 
carries  St.  Ursula,  whilst  the  suite  of  both  still  winds  through  the  passes 
leading  from  the  Alps.  On  the  fifth  panel,  the  background  is  a  camp  on 
the  Rhine  shore,  where  boats  have  landed  some  of  their  living  freight, 
and  others  approach  with  crowded  loads-,  the  knights  and  virgins  are 
set  upon  by  soldiers  and  arc  vainly  defended  by  their  steel-clad  cham- 
pions. The  sixth  picture  is  that  in  which  St.  Ursula  is  seen  in  a  passive 
attitude  of  prayer,  awaiting  the  arrow  of  a  executioner;  the  men  about 
her,  armed  in  proof,  or  shrouded  in  mantles,  are  spectators  or  actors  in 
the  massacre  of  the  saint's  companions;  and  the  distance  is  filled  with 
tents  behind  which  the  Kolner  Dom  rears  its  solid  walls'. 

'The  freedom  and  grace  with  which  these  scenes  are  composed  are 
partly  due  to  the  facility  with  which  Memling  treated  groups  and  figures 
of  small  proportions,  but  they  tell  of  progress  in  the  art  of  distribution 
and  arrangement.  It  would  be  difficult  to  select  any  picture  of  the  Flemish 
school  in  which  the  'dramatis  persona;''  are  more  naturally  put  together 
than  they  are  in  the  shrine  of  St.  Ursula,  nor  is  there  a  single  panel  in 
the  reliquary  that  has  not  the  charm  of  rich  and  well-contrasted  colour. 
...  A  rich  fund  of  life  and  grace  is  revealed  in  shapes  of  symmetrical 
proportions  or  slender  make  and  attitudes  of  becoming  elegance.  Nothing 
is  more  striking  than  the  minuteness  of  the  painter's  touch,  or  the  per- 
fect mastery  of  his  finish'. 

Croice  and  Cavalcaselle.   The  Earhj  Flemish  Painters.  1872. 


St.  John's  Hospital.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     19 

A  second  picture  by  Memling,  vi-ith  a  doubtless  later  inscription 
in  which  the  painter  is  named  Hemling,  is  the  ^Marriage  of  St. 
Catharine'  (No.  1),  a  winged  picture. 

'The  Virgin  sits  on  a  throne  in  a  rich  church-porch-,  angels  hold  a 
crown  above  her;  the  infant  on  her  lap  bends  to  give  a  ring  to  the  bride 
kneeling  in  regal  raiment  at  his  feet 5  to  the  left  and  right,  the  Baptist, 
Evangelist,  and  St.  Barbara  stand  gravely  in  attendance;  an  angel  plays 
on  an  organ;  another  holds  a  missal.  Close  behind  St.  Barbara,  a  monk 
of  the  order  of  St.  Augustin  contemplates  the  scene ;  and  in  a  landscape 
watered  by  a  river  the  Baptist  prays  to  God,  preaches  to  a  crowd,  wends 
his  way  to  the  place  of  execntion,  and  burns  —  a  headless  trunk  —  at 
the  stake;  elsewhere,  St.  John  Evangelist  seethes  in  boiling  oil.  On  the 
left  wing  of  the  triptych  the  daughter  of  Herodias  receives  the  Baptist's 
head,  and  dances  before  Herod.  On  the  right  wing  St.  John  Evangelist 
is  seated  and  looks  towards  heaven,  preparing  to  note  the  vision  before 
him.  He  sees  the  king  of  kings,  the  elders,  the  lamps  of  the  Apocalypse, 
the  lamb,  the  symbols  of  the  Evangelist,  and  Death  on  the  pale  horse, 
bursting  with  hi"s  three  companions  on  the  men  wlio  flee;  on  the  placid 
surface  of  the  sea,  the  vision  is  reflected  and  forms  a  grand  and  imposing 
picture.  On  the  outer  face  of  the  wings,  Jacques  de  Keuninck,  treasurer, 
Antoine  Seghers ,  director,  Agnes  Cazembrood ,  superior,  and  Claire  van 
Hultem,  a  nun  of  the  hospital,  are  depicted  under  the  protection  of  their 
patron  saints.'  —  Ibid. 

By  the  entrance  is  a  smaller  winged  picture  (No.  3)  by  Memling, 
also  with  a  forged  inscription,  the  *Epiphany ,  representing  the 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  and  the  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  painted 
in  1479,  and  the  best  example  of  the  master's  early  manner  (under 
glass). 

The  thin,  bearded  man  looking  in  at  the  window,  with  the  cap  which 
is  still  worn  by  the  convalescents  of  the  hospital,  is  said  to  be  a  portrait 
of  the  master  himself.  To  the  right.  Brother  Jan  Floreins  van  der  Ryst, 
the  donor,  kneeling.  On  the  inside  of  the  shutters,  the  Nativity,  and 
Presentation  in  the  Temple;  outside,  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Veronica. 
In  this  picture  the  influence  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Memling's  teacher, 
is  most  distinctly  visible,  but  the  heads  are  more  delicate  and  pleasing, 
and  the  execution  bolder.  The  picture  has  unfortunately  been  much 
injured  by  cleaning. 

A  small  picture  (No.  4 ;  under  glass  ;  at  the  fourth  window),  a 
diptych ,  painted  in  1487,  represents  the  Virgin  with  a  red  mantle, 
offering  an  apple  to  the  Child ;  on  the  other  wing  the  donor,  Martin 
van  Newenhowen. 

'There  is  no  more  interesting  specimen  of  portrait  by  Memling  ex- 
tant than  this ,  none  more  characteristic  for  the  large  fair  oval  of  the 
Madonna's  face,  or  for  that  peculiar  clearness  which  is  so  surely  pro- 
duced by  scant  shadow  and  spacious,  even  light'.  —  Crowe  &  Cavalcaselle. 

Another  picture  by  Memling  (No.  5)  represents  a  female  Bust, 
with  high  cap  and  white  veil,  styled  by  the  modern  inscription 
'SibyUa  Sambetha'. 

An  Entombment  (No.  6;  by  the  second  window),  with  portrait 
of  the  donor  A.  Reins,  and  SS.  Adrian,  Barbara,  Wilgefortis,  and 
Mary  of  Egypt  on  the  wings  (the  last  two  on  the  outside),  also  some- 
times attributed  to  Memling,  but  probably  by  an  inferior  contempo- 
rary, possesses  far  less  life  and  richness  of  colouring  than  the  other 
pictures. 

2* 


20     Route.  4.  BRUGES.  Museum. 

There  are  also  several  good  pictures  by  the  two  Van  Oosts  (a 
Philosopher,  No.  11,  is  a  masterpiece  of  the  Elder),  a  Madonna,' 
an  old  copy  after  Van  Dyck  (No.  29;  .above  the  door),  portraits  by 
Fourbus  (Nos.  33,  34;  below,  to  the  right  of  the  door),  the  Miracu- 
lous Draught  of  Fishes  by  Z).  Tenicrs  the  Younger  (^No.  32),  the 
Good  Samaritan  by  Nic.  Maes  (No.  39;  beside  No.  1),  several  works 
by  unknown  masters  of  the  15-lGth  cent.,  etc. 

The  Hospital  itself  (containing  240  beds)  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 
The  large,  open  hall,  divided  by  partitions  and  used  as  a  store,  is 
interesting  from  having  retained  its  mediaeval  aspect  unchanged. 

From  the  Hospital  the  Rue  Ste.  Catherine  leads  S.  to  No.  84,  the 
'•Museum  (PL  B,  7),  which  contains  (temporarily)  the  pictures  be- 
longing to  the  Academie  des  Beaux-Arts,  a  collection  of  great  interest 
to  the  student  of  early  Flemish  art.  (Critical  catalogue  by  James 
Weale,  2fr.)  The  entrance  is  through  the  old  chapel  (admission  on 
Sundays  gratis,  11-1  o'clock;  at  other  times  ^2  f^"-)- 

On  the  wall  opposite  the  entrance:  ib.  Jean  Prevost{<\.  ib2d),  The  Last 
Judgment,  a  very  impressive  picture,  notwithstanding  several  eccentricities. 
In  the  upper  part  the  heads  are  very  beautiful  and  varied.  Above,  16.  J.  van 
den  Coornhuuse,  Copy  of  the  last  (with  alterations).  —  To  the  right,  0,  7.  Ge- 
rard David,  The  sentence  of  Cambyses  against  the  unjust  judge  Sisamnes. 
The  first  picture  represents  the  bribery  in  the  background,  and  the  sen- 
tence of  the  king  in  the  foreground;  the  second  the  executioners  flaying 
Sisamnes.  Both  pictures  (completed  in  1498)  are  boldly  painted,  with  a 
brownish  tone  of  colouring ,  and  admirably  finished.  The  composition  is 
well  conceived  on  the  whole ,  and  the  backgrounds  are  excellent.  Most 
of  the  heads  exhibit  a  marked  individuality,  and  the  hands  are  drawn 
with  perfect  accuracy.  —  "^b.  Gerard  David ,  Triptych ,  formerly  ascribed 
to  Memling.  In  the  central  picture  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  on  the  left 
wing  the  donor  Jean  des  Trompes  and  his  son,  with  their  patron  St.  John 
the  Evangelist;  on  the  right  wing  Elizabeth  van  der  Meersch,  the  first 
wife  of  the  dcmor,  with  her  four  daughters,  under  the  protection  of  St. 
Elizabeth  of  Hungary.  On  the  outsides  of  the  wings  are  the  Hadonna 
and  Magdalen  Cordier,  the  donor's  second  wife,  with  her  infant  daughter 
and  her  patron-saint.  This  picture  shows  the  great  skill  of  the  master 
in  landscape-painting.  The  background  of  the  inner  pictures ,  with  its 
rich  gradation  and  varied  accessories,  is  remarkably  pleasing.  The  work 
was  executed  about  the  year  1507.  —  *1.  Jan  van  Eyck ,  Madonna  with 
the  Infant  Christ,  St.  Donatian  and  St.  George,  and  the  donor  Canon 
George  de  Pala.  This  picture  is  strongly  realistic.  The  Madonna  is  the 
ugliest  ever  painted  by  Van  Eyck,  the  Child,  with  its  aged  expression 
(meant  to  indicate  the  presence  of  Deity?),  is  lean  and  unattractive,  and 
St.  George  has  much  the  appearance  of  a  rude  common  soldier.  The  por- 
trait of  the  donor,  however,  is  masterly,  and  St.  Donatian  is  a  dignified 
personage.  The  figures  are  two-thirds  of  life-size,  being  the  largest  which 
the  master  is  known  to  have  painted.  —  2.  Jan  van  Eyck,  Portrait  of  his 
wife,  1439,  evidently  unflattered ,  but  admirably  finished,  and  faithful  in 
every  detail.  —  3.  After  Jan  van  Eyck,  Head  of  Christ,  with  the  spurious 
inscription,  'Joh.  de  Eyck  inventor  1420\  a  reduced  «opy  of  the  work  in 
the  museum  at  Berlin.  —  *4.  Memling,  Triptych.  In  the  central  picture 
is  St.  Christopher,  with  a  blue  garment  and  ample  red  cloak,  looking  up 
with  astonishment  at  the  Infant  Christ  sitting  on  his  shoulders ,  as  if 
unable  to  comprehend  the  continual  increase  of  his  burden.  In  a  grotto 
is  the  hermit,  leaning  on  a  stick,  with  a  lantern  in  his  hand.  To  the  left 
is  St.  Maurus  reading,  to  the  right  St.  Egidius  with  the  doe.  The  ground 
is  strewn  with  violets  and  other  flowers.  On  the  left  wing  is  the  donor 
with   his   five   sons    and   his    patron   St.  AVilliam,    on    the  right  wing  his 


Belfry.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     21 

wife  with  ten  daughters  and  St.  Barbara.  On  the  outside  are  St.  John 
the  Baptist  and  St.  George,  in  grisaille.  This  picture  occupies  a  high 
rank  among  Memling's  works.  The  heads  of  the  three  saints  in  the  central 
picture  are  of  great  beauty,  and  the  reflection  of  the  rocky  bank  in  the 
water  is  admirably  rendered.  The  picture  has  unfortunately  been  much 
injured  by  the  removal  of  the  original  varnish.  St.  George  is  probably 
by  a  difiPerent  hand.  —  12.  Unknown  Master  of  Brabant  (formerly  ascribed 
to  Schooreel),  Death  of  the  Virgin  (copy  in  the  cathedral). 

Most  of  the  back-wall  is  occupied  by  paintings  by  P.  Pourbus  of 
Gouda,  who  early  emigrated  to  Bruges  and  died  there  in  1584.  l^o.  19. 
Last  Judgment  (1551);  20.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  with  wings  in  grisaille 
(1570);  21,  22.  Portraits  (1551).  —  Above,  25.  Ant.  Glaeis  or  Claeissens, 
Banquet  (1574) ;  23.  Ascribed  to  P.  Claeis,  Allegorical  representation  of  the 
Treaty  of  Tournai  in  1584  (with  portraits). 

Entrance-wall:  Above,  41.  /.  van  Oast  the  Elder.,  Augustine  washing 
the  feet  of  Christ  (in  the  guise  of  a  pilgrim) ;  42.  St.  Anthonv  of  Padua  and 
the  Holy  Child;  43.  St.  Anthony  resuscitating  a  dead  man;  44,  45.  Portrait 
of  an  Arquebusier;  46.  Theologian  dictating  to  his  amanuensis.  All  these 
works  deserve  attention,  especially  the  last.  On  the  same  wall,  31,  33.  Jan 
van  Goyen,  Sea-pieces.  In  the  doorway  leading  to  the  modem  pictures, 
*8.  Gerard  David,  two  charming  small  coloured  drawings  on  parchment: 
Preaching  of  John  the  Baptist  and  the  Baptism  of  Christ. 

A  short  distance  from  tlic  ^hiseum  the  Rue  Neuve  de  Gand  di- 
verges to  the  left  (E.)  from  the  Rue  Sto.  Catherine.  No.  100  in 
this  street  (PI.  C,  6)  is  the  Musee  des  Hospices  Civils  (Museum 
der  Burgerlijke  Godshuizen).  Admission  daily  except  Sat.,  week- 
days 10-12  and  2-5  or  4,  Sun.  11-1,  50  c. 

The  collection  includes  early  Flemish  paintings,  antique  furniture, 
stained  glass,  painted  statuettes,  engraved  metal  caskets,  pottery,  etc. 
Among  the  most  interesting  exhibits  are:  in  the  large  gla«s-case,  live 
specimens  of  early  Chinese  porcelain;  diptych  (dated  J522),  with  portrait 
of  a  brother  of  the  Hospice  of  St.  John ;  "Madonna  in  painted  ivory, 
from  the  end  of  the  13th  cent. ;  silver-gilt  tankard  (17th  cent.)  ;  altar-cross 
(15th  cent).  — In  the  glass-case:  fine  carved  casket,  painted  and  gilded,  of 
the  15th  cent. ;  bugle-horn  (13th  cent.).  At  the  centre-window,  enamelled 
panes  of  glass  (15th  cent.). 

The  street  from  the  station  to  the  town  passes  a  small  open  space 
planted  with  trees,  and  adorned  with  a  poor  Statue  of  Simon  Stevin 
(PI.  11 ;  B,  5),  the  inventor  of  the  decimal  system  (d.  1635),  and 
leads  to  the  GIrande  Place  (PI.  B,  C,  5),  or  market-place.  In  the 
centre  stands  a  colossal  *Monument  to  Jan  Breidel  and  Pieter  de 
Conine  ,  guild-masters  and  leaders  of  the  citizens  of  Bruges  in  the 
'Battle  of  the  Spurs'  at  Courtrai  (p.  57~);  the  monument,  erected  iu 
1887,  is  by  Devigne.  The  S.  side  of  the  square  is  occupied  hy  the 
Halles,  a  large  building  erected  in  the  13th  and  14th  centuries, 
and  partly  altered  in  1561-66  from  designs  by  Peter  Diericx.  The 
building  forms  a  rectangle,  48  yds.  broad  and  93  yds.  deep.  The 
E.  wing,  originally  intended  for  a  cloth-hall,  now  contains  the  mu- 
nicipal offices ;  the  other  has  been  used  as  a  meat-market  since  1819. 
The  Belfry  (Tour  des  Halles,  or  Grande  Tour),  begun  in  1291  and 
finished  at  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.,  352  ft.  in  height,  rises  in  the 
centre  of  the  facade  and  leans  slightly  towards  the  S.E.  It  consists 
of  two  massive  square  stories,  flanked  with  corner-turrets,  and  sur- 


22    Route.  4.  BRUGES.        Church  of  St.  Jacques. 

mounted  by  a  lofty  octagon,  which  was  erected  in  1393-96.  The 
summit  commands  a  very  extensive  view.  The  *Chimes,  dating  from 
1748,  are  heard  to  full  advantage  on  Wed.,  Sat.,  &  Sun.,  11. 15-12. 
(Entrance  in  the  court  to  the  right,  upstairs;  ring  the  hell  in  the 
gallery;  fee  25c.)  In  the  court  to  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  an  in- 
teresting Collection  of  Antiquities,  chiefly  of  local  origin,  exhibited 
in  a  series  of  rooms  on  the  ground-floor  (Sun.  11-1,  free;  on  other 
days,  10-4,  on  application  to  the  concierge,  fcc-OO  c,  for  3pers.  1  fr.). 
—  On  the  E.  side  of  the  market-place  are  the  handsome  new  Gothic 
(Tovernment  Buildings. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  market-place,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue 
St.  Amand,  is  a  house  formerly  belonging  to  the  Bouckhout  family, 
a  handsome  old  building  in  the  mediaeval  style ,  adorned  with  a 
gilded  lion.  According  to  a  popular  but  probably  erroneous  tradition, 
it  was  occupied  for  a  time  by  Charles  II.  of  England,  while  living 
here  in  exile  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  century.  The  citizens 
of  Bruges  conferred  upon  hira  a  title  of  royalty  by  creating  him  'King 
of  the  Guild  of  Archers'. 

In  the  opposite  house,  called  the  Cranenburg  (PI.  4 ;  B,  5),  now  a 
tavern,  the  citizens  of  Bruges  kept  the  German  King  Maximilian, 
the  'last  of  the  knights',  prisoner  during  twelve  days,  in  the  year 
1488,  on  account  of  his  refusal  to  concede  the  guardianship  of  his 
son  Philip,  heir  to  the  crown  of  the  Netherlands,  to  the  king  of 
France.  The  Pope  threatened  them  with  excommunication,  and 
the  Imperial  army  was  directed  to  march  against  the  city,  notwith- 
standing which  Maximilian  was  not  liberated  until,  in  the  presence 
of  the  guilds  and  the  townspeople,  he  had  solemnly  sworn  to  re- 
nounce his  claim  to  the  guardianship  of  his  son,  to  respect  the  lib- 
erties of  Bruges,  and  to  forget  the  affront  he  had  received.  A  few 
weeks  later,  however,  he  was  released  from  his  oath  by  a  congress  of 
Princes  convened  at  Malines  by  his  father,  the  Emp.  Frederick  III. 

The  Rue  St.  Jacques,  with  the  Conservatory  of  Music,  and  the 
Halle  au  Beurre  or  Boterhuis  (on  the  right)  with  other  fine  brick- 
buildings,  leads  from  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  market-place  to  the  — 

Church  of  St.  Jacques  (PI.  B,  4),  a  late-Gothic  brick  building, 
erected  in  1457-1518,  which  contains  several  objects  of  interest. 

Of  the  numerous  pictures  of  the  16th,  17th,  and  18th  centuries,  ar- 
ranged to  some  extent  in  rows  as  in  a  picture-gallery,  and  provided  with 
the  names  of  the  artists  and  the  dates,  we  can  only  specify  a  few.  The 
painters  mostly  belong  to  Bruges  {L.  de  Deyster,  d.  1711;  Jos.  van  den 
Kerckhove,  d.  1724,  among  others).  Left  Aisle.  1st  Chapel :  Fine  chased 
copper  monumental  tablets  of  Spanish  families ,  one  of  which ,  with  the 
date  1461,  is  to  the  memory  of  Catherine,  daughter  of  C'oland  d''Avlt,  re- 
presented between  her  brother  and  her  guardian  angel;  another,  dating 
from  1577,  is  to  the  memory  of  Bon  Francisco  de  Lapuebla  and  his  wife, 
and  is  very  elaborately  executed ;  a  third,  of  date  1615,  is  in  memory  of 
Don  Pedro  de  Valencia  and  his  wife.  2nd  Chapel :  Lancelot  Blondeel,  Mar- 
tyrdom of  SS.  Cosmas  and  Damianus ,  painted  in  1523  for  the  guild  of 
Barber-Surgeons  •,  P.  Potirbns ,  The  Seven  Woes  of  the  Virgin ,  1556.  At 
the  end  of  the  left  aisle:  "Jac.  van  Oost  the  Elder,  Presentation  in  the 
Temple.  —  On  the  High  Altak:   J.   van  Bockfiorst  (d.   1668),  Adoration 


Hotel  deVille.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     23 

of  the  Magi.  —  At  the  end  of  the  Right  Aisle:  to  the  right,  Madonna, 
with  the  donors,  by  P.  Poui'bus,  i5o6-,  also  a  small  Chapel,  with  poly- 
chrome ornamentation  (restored  in  1876),  containing  the  tomb  oi  Ferri/ 
de  Gros^  Seigneur  de  Oyenghem^  Nieuwenlande,  etc.  (d.  1544)  and  his  two 
wives  (the  recumbent  figure  of  the  second  wife  is  particularly  beautiful); 
on  the  small  altar  in  this  chapel  is  a  fine  glazed  terracotta  of  the  school 
of  BeUa  Rohhia,  representing  Mary  and  the  Child  encircled  with  a  chaplet 
of  fruits.  —  The  pulpit,  rood-lofts,  and  choir-stalls  were  put  up  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  ITth  century. 

The  CouR  DEs  Princes  (PI.  3;  B,  4),  the  ancient  palace  of  the  Counts 
of  Flanders,  where  the  nuptials  of  Charles  the  Bold  with  Margaret  of 
York  were  celebrated  in  146S,  and  where  Philippe  le  Bel,  father  of  Char- 
les v.,  was  born,  has  entirely  disappeared,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
fi'agments  within  a  private  house. 

From  the  Rue  St.  Jacques  farther  N.  the  Rue  des  Baudets  leads 
to  the  well-preserved  Porte  d'Ostende  (PI.  B,  2).  —  In  the  neigh- 
bouring Rue  St.  Georges  is  the  Normal  School  for  Boys  (PI.  C,  3), 
a  handsome  modern  Gothic  huilding. 

To  the  E.  of  the  market-place,  in  the  adjacent  Place  du  Bourg 
(PI.  C,  5),  is  the  *H6tel  de  Ville  (PI.  5),  an  elegant  Gothic  struc- 
ture with  six  turrets,  three  in  front  and  three  at  the  back ,  be- 
gun about  1376  by  Jan  Rongiers  (the  facade  was  probably  finished 
in  138T),  and  restored  in  1854-1871.  The  48  niches  in  the  prin- 
cipal facade,  between  the  windows,  are  filled  with  statues  of  Counts 
of  Flanders ,  which  replace  those  destroyed  by  the  French  sans- 
culottes in  1792.  The  Counts  of  Flanders,  on  their  accession  to  the 
throne,  used  to  show  themselves  to  the  people  from  one  of  the  win- 
dows or  balconies  in  front  of  this  building,  and  swear  to  maintain 
the  privileges  of  the  city  (p.  12). 

Interior.  A  battle-piece  in  the  hall  below  (Finding  of  the  body  of 
Charles  the  Bold  after  the  Battle  of  Nancy ,  in  1477) ,  by  H.  Dobbelaare, 
was  purchased  for  Bruges  by  the  citizens  with  the  aid  of  the  government. 
The  council-chambers  contain  some  modern  pictures  and  a  few  objects 
dating  from  the  17tli  cent,  (ink-stands,  the  silver  chain  of  the  burgomaster's 
hand-bell).  Upstairs,  in  the  vestibule,  are  representations  of  the  principal 
squares  of  the  town ;  also  a  large  picture  by  Dobbelaare,  representing  the 
Works  of  Charity.  The  Great  Hall,  which  occupies  almost  the  entire  length 
of  the  building,  is  worthy  of  a  visit  on  account  of  its  fine  Gothic  roof  of 
pendent  wood-work,  dating  from  the  14th  century. 

Adjoining  the  Hotel  de  Ville  on  the  left  is  the  *Maison  de  VAn- 
cien  Greffe  (PL  14).  or  old  municipal  record  office,  a  Renaissance 
edifice  built  by  J.  Wallot  in  1534-37,  recently  restored  and  pro- 
fusely adorned  with  gilding  and  statues;  it  is  now  a  court  of  law. 
The  carved  doors  of  the  court-room,  executed  by  Ant.  Lambronck 
in  1544,  were  formerly  in  the  cathedral.  —  The  vaulted  passage 
below  the  Ancien  Greffe  emerges  on  the  bank  of  a  canal,  whence  a 
good  view  is  obtained  of  the  back  of  the  Palais  de  Justice  (p.  25), 
the  Hotel  de  Ville,  and  the  towers  of  St.  Sauveur  and  Notre  Dame. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  canal  is  the  Fish  Market. 

In  the  corner,  adjoining  the  Hotel  de  Ville  on  the  right,  is  the 
church  of  St,  Basile,  usually  called  "^■Chapelle  du  Saint -Sang 
(PI.  13 ;  C,  5j,  a  small  and  elegant  church  of  two  stories,  the  lower 
of  which  dates  from  1150,  the  upper  probably  from  the  15th  cent. ; 


24     Route  4.  BRUGES.  Chap,  du  St.  Sang. 

the  portal  and  staircase,  constructed  in  1529-33,  in  the  richest 
Flamboyant  style,  and  seriously  damaged  by  the  sansculottes  during 
the  Revolution,  were  handsomely  restored  in  1829-39.  The  chapel 
derives  its  appellation  from  some  drops  of  the  blood  of  the  Saviour, 
which  Theodoric  of  Alsace,  Count  of  Flanders  (p.  12),  is  said  to 
have  brought  from  the  Holy  Land  in  1149,  and  to  have  presented 
to  the  city.  —  The  sacristan  lives  at  No.  2  Rue  de  Lainc  Avcugle, 
through  the  arched  passage,  on  the  right  side. 

The  Lower  Chapel  (entrance  at  the  corner),  founded  by  Theo- 
doric of  Alsace  and  Sibylla  of  Anjou,  and  consecrated  in  1150,  con- 
sists of  nave  and  aisles,  with  choir  of  the  same  breadth  as  the  nave, 
and  rests  on  low  round  pillars.  The  carved  altar  dates  from  1536. 

The  Upper  Chapel  is  reached  from  the  Place  by  the  staircase 
mentioned  above  (open  free  Sun.  7-9 ,  Frid.  6-12 ,  fee  at  other 
times  50  c.) ;  it  has  no  aisles.  The  stained-glass  windows  in  the 
vestibule  date  from  the  16th  century.  The  coloured  decorations 
of  the  chapel,  recently  restored,  are  rich  but  somewhat  gaudy.  The 
windows,  comprising  portraits  of  the  Burgundian  princes  down  to 
Maria  Theresa  and  Francis  I.,  were  executed  in  1845-47  from  old 
designs.  The  large  W.  window,  representing  the  history  of  the 
Passion  and  the  conveyance  of  the  Holy  Blood  to  Bruges,  was 
executed  by  Capronnier  from  designs  by  Jean  Bethune ,  1856. 
The  window  with  SS.  Longinus  and  Veronica  is  by  Jean  Bethune. 
The  polychrome  decoration  of  the  choir  was  executed  in  1856  from 
designs  by  T.  H.  King,  in  four  compartments.  The  altar,  a  specimen 
of  modern  sculpture  in  the  Gothic  style,  was  executed  by  Michael 
Abbeloos  from  drawings  by  Jean  Bethune.  The  pulpit  consists  of 
a  half-globe,  resting  on  clouds,  with  the  equator,  meridian,  and  a 
few  geographical  names. 

On  the  wall  to  the  left  of  the  entrance :  piece  of  lace  of  1684 
(under  glass);  old  Flemish  painting  of  the  15th  cent,  representing 
Count  Theodoric  receiving  the  '  Holy  Blood'  from  Baldwin  III.  of 
Flanders,  King  of  Jerusalem  (?);  other  pictures  of  little  value.  — 
In  the  opposite  wall  are  three  arches  opening  on  to  a  Chapel, 
where  the  Holy  Blood  is  exposed  to  view.  Above  the  arches :  De 
Crayer ,  Pietk ;  to  the  right,  an  early-Flemish  winged  painting  of 
the  Crucifixion,  and  others.  The  marble  altar  of  the  chapel,  bear- 
ing a  massive  silver  crucifix,  dates  from  the  17th  cent. ;  the  pulpit, 
where  the  Holy  Blood  is  exhibited  every  Friday  from  6  to  11.30  a.m., 
was  constructed  in  1866.  To  the  right  and  left  arc  good  portraits 
of  members  of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  Holy  Blood,  painted  by  P. 
Pourbus  (1556).  Farther  on  is  a  winged  picture  of  the  early-Flemish 
scliool,  containing  a  vast  number  of  figures,  and  portraying  the 
Bearing  of  the  Cross,  the  Crucifixion,  and  the  Resurrection. 

The  most  important  picture  in  the  church,  however,  is  the*De- 
scent  from  the  Cross,  a  winged  picture  by  Gerard  David. 

The  central  scene  represents  the  body  of  Christ  supported  by  the  aged 
Nicodemus   on   the   right.    Mary,   with   her  hands  folded,   kneels  before 


Palais  de  Justice.  BRUGES.  4.  Route.     *25 

her  son,  supported  by  St.  John,  who  at  the  same  time  raises  the  left 
arm  of  Christ.  On  his  right  are  Mary  Salome  and,  in  the  corner,  a  man 
with  a  box  of  ointment.  On  the  wings  are  Mary  Magdalene  with  Cleo- 
phas,  and  Joseph  of  Arimathrea  with  an  unknown  man.  In  the  back- 
ground is  Mt.  Calvary.  The  picture  was  probably  painted  late  in  life  by 
the  master,  whose  merit  has  only  recently  been  discovered,  and  exhibits 
a  brownish  tone,  attributable  to  the  influence  of  Quinten  Massys. 

Above  the  exit :  J.  van  Oost  the  Elder,  Descent  from  the  Cross. 
—  The  Sacristy  contains  a  silver-gilt  reliquary  (4  ft,  3  in.  high,  2  ft. 
hroad),  studded  with  gems,  -which  was  made  in  1617  hy  Jearh 
Crabbe,  and  presented  to  the  church  by  Archduke  Albert  and  his 
wife  Isabella ;  the  miniature  crown  resting  on  it  is  said  to  have 
been  a  gift  from  Princess  Mary  of  Burgundy  (p.  17),  but  is  doubt- 
less nearly  two  centuries  later  in  date. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  is  the  Palais  de  Justice 
(PI.  C,  5;  1722-27),  formerly  the  town-hall  of  the  Franc  de  Bruges, 
or  district  of  the  ^Buitenpoorters\  i.e.,  inhabitants  'outside the  gate', 
•who  were  not  subject  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  city.  It  occupies  part 
of  the  site  of  an  old  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders,  which  was 
presented  by  Philippe  le  Bel  to  the  'Franc  de  Bruges'.  The  first 
building,  erected  in  1520-1608,  -was  destroyed  by  fire. 

The  CouKT  Room  {Chamhre  Echevinale;  custodian  in  the  quadrangle, 
1/2  fr.)  belongs  to  the  original  edifice.  It  contains  a  magnificent  Renais- 
sance *  Oiimne;/- Piece ,  occupying  almost  the  entire  side  of  the  room, 
executed  in  1529-31  by  Giujot  de  Beaugrarit,  probably  to  commemorate 
the  battle  of  Pavia,  and  the  peace  of  Cambrai,  by  which  France  was 
obliged  to  recognise  the  independence  of  Flanders.  The  lower  part  con- 
sists of  black  marble;  the  upper,  which  is  of  carved  oak,  was  exe- 
cuted from  designs  by  the  painter  Lancelot  Blondeel,  and  restored  in 
1850  by  the  sculptor  Geerts.  The  statues,  finely  carved  and  nearly  life- 
size,  represent  Charles  V.  (in  the  centre),  his  paternal  ancestors  Blary  of 
Burgundy  and  3Iaximilian  of  Austria  on  the  left,  and  his  maternal  an- 
cestors Ferdinand  of  Aragon  and  Isabella  of  Castile  on  the  right  of  the 
spectator;  to  the  right  and  left  of  Charles  are  small  medallions,  held 
aloft  by  children,  representing  his  parents  Philippe  le  Bel  and  Johanna 
of  Castile;  also  the  armorial  bearings  of  Burgundy,  Spain,  etc.;  the 
whole  decorated  with  genii  and  foliage.  On  the  frieze  of  the  chimney- 
piece  proper  are  four  reliefs  in  white  marble,  of  the  same  period,  repre- 
senting the  history  of  Susanna.  The  tapestry  on  the  walls  was  manufac- 
tured at  Ingelmiinster  (p.  33)  in  1850,  in  imitation  of  the  original,  of 
which  portions  were  found  in  the  cellar. 

Crossing  the  Place  adjacent  to  the  Place  du  Bonrg,  -which  is 
planted  with  horse-chestnuts,  traversing  the  Burgstraat,  and  pro- 
ceeding a  little  farther  in  the  same  direction,  -we  reach  the  small 
Place  Jean  van  Eyck  (PI.  C,  4),  surrounded  by  interesting  mediaeval 
buildings,  and  bounded  on  the  E.  by  a  canal.  The  bronze  statue  of 
Jan  van  Eyck,  by  Pickery,  was  erected  in  1878,  On  the  W.  side  of  the 
Place  is  the  Academy  of  Arts  and  on  the  N.  the  Municipal  Library. 

The  *Municipal  Library  (PI.  2 ;  C,  4),  which  is  now  established 
in  the  ancient  Tonlieu,  or  custom-house  of  1477  (restored  in  1878), 
contains  15,000  vols.,  numerous  interesting  old  MSS.,  many  of 
them  with  miniatures,  missals  of  the  13-14th  cent.,  and  the  first 
books  printed  by  Cnlard  Mansion,  the  printer  of  Bruges  (1475-84).  It 
is  open  daily,  10-1  and  4-7,  Sat.,  Sun.,  and  holidays  excepted. 


26     Routed.  BRUGES.  Academy. 

The  Academie  des  Beaux  Arts  (PL  C ,  4)  was  founded  in 
1719  by  the  painters  Jos.  van  den  Kerckhove,  J.  B.  Erregouts, 
Marc  Duvenede,  and  Josse  Aerschoot,  specimens  of  whose  works  are 
frequently  encountered  in  Bruges.  The  building,  in  the  Gothic  style 
of  the  14th  cent.,  is  caWed  De  Poorters  Loodze  (i.  e.,  Citizens'  Lodge, 
^poorters\  those  who  live  within  the  ^poorf  or  gate),  and  was  formerly 
an  assembly-hall  for  the  townspeople ;  it  was  entirely  remodelled  in 
1755.  The  facade  is  in  course  of  being  decorated  with  statues  by 
sculptors  of  Bruges.  The  pictures  belonging  to  the  Academy  are  at 
present  exhibited  in  the  Museum  (p.  20).  —  To  the  W.,  opposite 
the  end  of  the  Rue  de  I'Academie  in  the  Place  des  Oeufs,  is  the 
ancient  Merchant- House  of  the  Genoese  (p.  12),  a  well-preserved 
Gothic  building  of  1399.  Over  the  door  are  St.  George  and  five 
coats  of  arms  ;  adjoining  the  inscription.    Beneath  is  a  cafe. 

Near  the  Academy,  to  the  N.W.,  is  the  Marche  du  Mercredi,  now 
called  Place  de  Memling  (PL  C,  4),  where  a  Statue  of  Memling 
(PL  10)  in  marble,  by  Pickery,  was  erected  in  1871.  From  the  Rue 
de  la  Cour  de  Gand,  leading  to  the  N.E.  from  the  Place  de  Memling, 
the  Ouai  Long  diverges  to  the  left.  A  short  side-street  on  the  left 
of  the  quay  brings  us  to  the  church  of  St.  Gilles  (PL  C,  D,  3),  an 
early  Gothic  edifice  with  three  gables,  begun  in  1240  and  enlarged 
in  the  15th  century.  The  interior,  recently  skilfully  restored,  has 
timber-vaulting  and  modern  stained  glass ;  in  the  aisles  are  antique 
polychromatic  reliefs  of  the  Stations  of  the  Cross,  and  paintings  by 
J.  van  Oost  the  Elder,  N.  Maes,  etc. 

We  return  to  the  Quai  Long,  follow  it  to  the  N.,  and  cross  the 
first  bridge  to  reach  the  Hospice'de  la  Potterie  (PLE,  2;  entrance 
No.  F79,  Quai  de  la  Potterie),  an  asylum  for  old  women,  established 
about  1164.  Adm.  50c.,  daily  except  Sat.,  week-days  2-5  or  4,  Sun. 
10-12;  comp.  p.  18. 

The  hospice  contains  old  paintings,  particularly  a  good  picture  by 
Peter  Claeissens^  representing  Mary  and  the  Child  beside  a  tree  ('Vau't 
Boomtjc'),  with  God  the  Father,  and  the  Holy  Ghost  in  the  form  of  a 
dove  at  the  top  (1608).  Also  drawings  ascribed  to  the  brothers  Van  Eyck 
and  their  sister  Margaret:  fine  miniatures,  old  Flemish  tapestry  (15-17th 
cent.);  tine  antique  furniture,  including  two  chests  (14th  and  15th  cent.) 
and  a  bed  of  the  17th  century.  —  In  the  chapel,  reading  desk  of  coloured 
marble  (1645). 

Opposite  the  Pont  de  la  Paille  (PL  D,  4),  No.  23,  is  the  house 
of  Dr.  de  Meyer,  who  possesses  a  good  collection  of  Dutch  and 
Flemish  pictures,  which  he  is  always  ready  to  show  to  lovers  of 
art  at  a  day's  notice.  The  forenoon  is  the  time  which  best  suits  Dr. 
de  Meyer.     The  house  is  tastefully  fitted  up  in  the  rococo  style. 

The  Church  of  St.  Anna  (PL  D,  4)  was  reconstructed  in  the 
Renaissance  style  in  1607-12.  The  church,  which  is  destitute  of 
aisles,  has  a  carved  wooden  panelling  of  1699;  pulpit  of  1675  ;  rood- 
loft  of  1642;  and  pi<-tures  by  the  elder  Van  Oost  and  L.  de  Deyster. 

The  Eglise  de  Jerusalem  (PL  D,  4;  entrance  from  the  back, 
Rue  de  la  Balle,  first  door  to  the  right),  a  small  and  simple  late- 


Ste.  Madeleine.  BRUGES.  d.  Route    27 

Gothic  brick  edifice  of  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent.,  contains  below 
the  high-choir  an  imitation  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  founded  by 
'Messire  Anselm  Adornes',  burgomaster  of  Bruges,  who  twice  visited 
Jerusalem  with  a  view  to  ensure  the  resemblance.  The  nave  con- 
tains a  bronze  monument  to  him  (d.  1483)  and  his  wife  (d.  1463). 
The  stained  glass  dates  from  the  15-1 6th  centuries. 

In  the  vicinity,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  is  the  Couvent  des 
Dames  Anglaises  (PI.  E,  4),  an  English  nunnery,  with  which  an 
excellent  school  is  connected.  The  church  of  the  convent,  a  Re- 
naisance  structure  with  a  dome,  was  built  by  Fulinx  in  1736-39, 
and  contains  an  altar,  executed  at  Rome,  and  composed  of  rare  Per- 
sian and  Eg>-ptian  marbles.  —  To  the  right,  a  little  farther  on  in  the 
same  street,  is  the  handsome  late-Gothic  guild-house  of  the  Arque- 
busiers  of  St.  Sebastian  (PI.  E,  4),  with  a  slender  octagonal  tower, 
containing  portraits  from  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent,  downwards, 
and  various  antiquities.  Charles  II.  of  England  (p.  22)  and  the 
Emp.  Maximilian  were  both  members  of  the  guild.  Close  by  are  the 
ramparts,  on  which  rise  several  windmills,  and  the  well-preserved 
Kruispoort  (Porte  Ste.  Croix ;  PI.  E,  5). 

The  Rue  Sauve'e  leads  to  the  S.  from  the  fish-market  to  the  at- 
tractive Park,  with  a  band-stand.  To  the  left  is  the  Prison  (Maison 
de  Surete).  At  the  S.  end  is  the  handsome  Gothic  church  of  Ste.  Ma- 
deleine, recently  restored  and  adorned  with  polychrome.  In  the 
nave  (with  timber-roof),  above,  a  large  wooden  crucifix,  with  Mary 
and  John;  in  the  aisles  painted  reliefs  of  the  Stations  of  the  Cross. 

The  Beguinage  (PL  A ;  6,  7),  at  the  S.W.  end  of  the  town,  found- 
ed in  the  13th  cent.,  is  inferior  to  that  of  Ghent  (p.  47).  The 
entrance  is  in  the  right  angle  of  the  Place  de  la  Vigne ;  we  cross  a 
bridge  and  pass  through  a  gateway  of  1776.  The  low,  whitewashed 
houses  surround  a  court  shaded  by  lofty  trees.  The  Church,  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Elisabeth,  was  founded  in  1245  and  rebuilt  in  1605; 
the  altarpiece  is  by  the  elder  Van  Oost,  and  there  is  an  Assumption 
by  T.  Boeyermans  in  the  N.  aisle  (1676). 

Dante  ^Inferno  xv.  ,  4-6)  compares    the    barrier  which  sepa- 
rates the  river  of   tears  from  the   desert,   with  the  embankments 
which  the  Flemings  have  thrown  up  between  Gadzand  (p.  9)  and 
Bruges,  to  protect  the  city  against  the  encroachments  of  the  sea:  — 
^ Quale  i  Fiamminghi  tra  Gazzante  e  Bniggia, 
Temendo  il  Jiotto  che  inver  lor  s^avvenia, 
Fanno  lo  sckermo,  perchii  "l  mar  si  fuggia''. 

Damme,  a  village  i  hr.  N.E.  of  Bruges,  on  the  canal  leading  to  Sluis 
(comp.  p.  9j,  was  once  a  considerable  and  fortified  seaport,  but  has  been  in 
a  state  of  decadence  since  the  sea  began  to  retire  from  it  in  the  loth  cen- 
tury. The  picturesque  Holies  were  built  in  1464-68,  and  restored  with  little 
success  in  1860;  in  front  of  the  building  is  a  statue  of  the  Flemish  poet 
Jacob  de  Coster  van  Maerlant  (13th  cent.),  by  Pickery  (i860).  The  church 
of  Notre  Dame.,  founded  in  IISO,  but  never  completed,  and  much  altered 
at  later  periods,  and  ih.&  Hospital  of  St.  John  also  merit  inspection.  There 
is  a  good  Esiaminet  in  the  lute-Gothic  Hotel  de  Ville,  which  has  a  notice- 
able portal. 


28 


5.  The  Railways  of  S.W.  Flanders. 


These  linos  all  belong  to  private  companies,  and  pass  so  many  small 
stations  that  the  speed  of  the  trains  is  extremely  slow.  The  ilat,  agricul- 
tural district  traversed  by  them  presents  the  usual  Flemish  characteristics. 
The  towns  of  this  part  of  Flanders  are  now  dull  and  lifeless,  but  more 
than  one  of  them  has  had  a  stirring  past.  Every  lover  of  art  will  find 
much  to  interest  him  in  Ypi'es,  and  the  rood-loft  oi  Diksmuide  fp.  31),  the 
cloth-hall  of  Nieuport  (p.  31),  and  various  edifices  of  Furnes  (p.  31)  also 
deserve  a  visit. 

1,  From  Ostbnd  to  Ypres,  35  M.,  railway  in  2  hrs.  (fares  4fr. 
35,  3  fr.  25,  2fr.  20  c). 

Stations :  Snaeskerke  ,  Ghistelles  (Hotel  de  TEiirope ;  often 
visited  "by  strangers  from  Ostend),  Moere,  Eerneghem,  Ichteyhem, 
and  Wynendaele  (see  below). 

15  M.  Thourout,  Flem.  Thorhout  (Due  de  Brabant;  Hotel  de 
Flandre;  Cygne;  Unionj,  a  town  with  8500  inhalj.,  derives  its  name 
from  a  grove  once  consecrated  here  to  the  worship  of  the  Germanic 
god  Thor  (^Thorhout  =  grove  of  Thor).  It  contains  a  seminary  for 
teachers  in  connection  with  the  diocese  of  Bruges,  and  a  handsome 
new  church.  In  the  neighbourhood,  V/2  M.  to  the  W.,  is  tlic  old 
castle  oi  Wynendaele,  lately  restored,  once  the  property  of  the  Counts 
of  Flanders.  Thourout  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Bruges  to 
Courtrai  (p.  32). 

191/2  ^I-  Cortemarck,  the  junction  for  the  Ghent  and  Dunkirk 
line  (p.  31).  —  Then  Hooghlede,  Stnden,  West-Rooseheke,  Poel- 
capelle,  Langhemarck,  Boesinghe.   Fertile  district. 

35  M.  Ypres.  —  Hotels.  *T£;te  d'Or,  in  the  wide  Rue  de  Lille, 
which  begins  at  the  belfry,  E,.,  L.,  &  A.  21/2-31/2,  B.  1,  D.  2,  omnibus 
1/2  fr.;  EpfiE  RoTALE,  Grande  Place,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2,  D.  2,  B.  8/4  fr.,  well 
spoken  of;  Chatellenie,  Grande  Place;  Hotels  Focrnier,  du  Nord  (R., 
L.,  &  A.  IV'2,  B.  1/2,  I>-  iVs  fr.),  des  Bkasseurs,  etc.  near  the  station. 

Ypres,  Flem.  leperen,  an  old  tow^n  with  remains  of  ancient  forti- 
fications, on  the  Yperlee,  situated  in  a  fertile  district,  contains 
15,500  inhab.,  who  are  chiefly  occupied  in  the  manufacture  of  linen 
and  lace,  and  possesses  hroad  and  clean  streets.  It  was  formerly  tho 
capital  of  West  Flanders.  In  the  14th  cent.  Ypres  had  a  population 
of  200,000  souls,  and  upwards  of  4000  looms  were  in  constant 
activity.  These  days  of  prosperity,  however,  have  long  since  passed 
away.  A  succession  of  popular  risings,  and  the  siege  of  the  town 
and  burning  of  the  suburbs  by  tho  burghers  of  Ghent  in  1383, 
caused  many  of  the  weavers  to  migrate  to  more  peaceful  abodes,  and 
the  industry  of  Ypres  became  almost  entirely  restricted  to  lace- 
making.  Its  subsequent  capture  by  Louis  XIV.,  who  converted  it 
into  a  strong  fortress,  was  fatal  to  all  prospect  of  revival.  Ypres 
thus  possesses  now  but  a  shadow  of  its  former  greatness,  but  it  still 
contains  many  memorials  of  its  golden  period,  which  make  it  one 
of  the  most  interesting  towns  in  Belgium.  Diaper  (i.  e.  d' Ypres) 
linen  takes  its  name  from  this  town. 

From  the  railway-station  we  first  follow  the  Rue  des  Bouchers 


YPRES.  5.  Route.     29 

(Vleescherstraatl,  at  the  end  of  which  we  take  the  Rue  du  Temple 
on  the  left,  and  then  turn  to  the  right  into  the  March e-au-Benrre 
(^Botermarkt),  which  brings  us  to  the  Grande  Place.  Here  stands 
the  *Cloth  Hall,  the  most  considerable  edifice  of  its  kind  in  Bel- 
gium, begun  in  1201,  but  not  completed  till  1304.  The  facade,  of 
simple  design,  is  460  ft.  long,  and  is  pierced  by  two  rows  of  pointed 
windows,  all  in  the  same  style.  It  is  flanked  by  two  corner-turrets, 
while  in  the  centre  rises  the  massive,  square  Belfry  (230  ft.),  with 
turrets  at  the  angles ,  the  oldest  part  of  the  building,  the  founda- 
tion stone  having  been  laid  by  Count  Baldwin  IX.  of  Flanders 
(p.  56)  in  the  year  1200.  The  edifice  is  said  to  have  suggested  to 
Sir  Gilbert  Scott  the  idea  of  his  successful  design  for  the  Town 
Hall  of  Hamburg.  The  44  statues  which  adorn  the  facade,  exe- 
cuted by  P.  Puyenbrocck  of  Brussels  in  1860,  replace  the  original 
figures  of  31  princes  who  bore  the  title  of  'Count  of  Flanders', 
from  Baldwin  of  the  Iron  Arm  (d.  ca.  879)  to  Charles  V.,  with  their 
consorts.  The  Town  Hall,  a  charming  Renaissance  structure  from 
designs  by  Jan  Sporeman  (1575),  was  attached  to  the  E.  part  of 
the  Cloth  Hall  in  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century.  The  ground- 
floor  consists  of  an  elegant  open  hall ,  20  ft.  in  width ,  boldly 
supported  by  columns.  Entrance  at  the  back.  No.  1,  opposite 
St.  Martin's  Church  (porter  on  first  floor;  Y2-I  ^r.).  The  former 
Salle  Echevinale,  now  the  Salle  des  Mariages,  is  adorned  with  fres- 
roes  by  Guffens  and  «Sit'eris,  painted  in  1869  (Festal  Entry  of  Philip 
the  Bold  of  Burgundy  and  his  wife,  the  last  Countess  of  Flanders, 
in  1384,  and  other  scenes  from  the  town's  history),  and  contains 
a  fine  modern  chimney-piece  by  Malfait  of  Brussels,  and  some  old 
wall-paintings  (restored)  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders  from  1322  tol476. 
All  these  are  best  seen  by  afternoon  light.  In  the  centre  is  a  small 
equestrian  figure  of  Jans  I.  of  Brabant  (1282-94) ,  by  A.  Fiers. 
The  whole  of  tlie  first  floor  formerly  consisted  of  a  single  large 
hall ,  which  was  used  as  a  clothmarket.  In  1876-84  the  walls 
of  the  E.  half  were  embellished  with  twelve  *Mural  Paintings  by 
Ferd.  Fauwels ,  representing  the  chief  events  in  the  history  of 
Ypres.  The  series  begins  with  the  foundation  of  the  Hospital  of 
the  Yirgin  in  1187  and  ends  with  the  siege  of  1383  (p.  28).  One 
of  the  most  powerful  scenes  depicts  the  ravages  of  the  plague  in 
1316.  The  embellishment  of  the  W.  half  has  been  entrusted  to 
Degroux.  The  AV.  wing  contains  the  wooden  pediment  of  the  old 
town  hall  (15th  cent.),  besides  plaster  models  of  the  statue  of  Bald- 
win in  Mous  (p.  180)  and  of  a  seated  colossal  statue  of  Queen 
Louise,  consort  of  Leopold  I. 

The  *Cathbdral  of  St.  Martin  ,  behind  the  Cloth  Hall ,  was 
built  in  the  13th  cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  edifice  founded  in 
1083 ;  the  choir  dates  from  1221 ,  the  nave  and  aisles  from  1254. 
The  tower  was  added  after  1434  by  Master  Vtenhove.  The  finest 
parts  are  the  choir  and  the  portal  of  the  S.  transept  with  its  magni- 


30    Route  5.  YPRES. 

flcent  rose-window  and  handsome  gable.  The  doors  are  good 
examples  of  rich  late-Gothic  carving.  Between  the  pillars  of  the 
"W.  porch  is  a  triumphal  arch,  constructed  in  1600  by  TJrbain 
Tailltbert  of  Ypres.  The  interior  contains  some  fine  Renaissance 
choir -stalls,  carved  by  C  van  Hoveke  and  Vrhain  Taillebert  in 
1598;  old  frescoes  in  the  choir,  unskilfully  restored  in  18'26 ;  in 
the  choir,  a  winged  picture  of  the  Fall  of  Man  and  his  Redemption, 
dating  from  1525 (covered);  a  brazen  font (16th  cent. );  late-Gothic 
organ  loft.  In  the  Sacristy  are  some  fine  old  ecclesiastical  vessels. 
A  flat  stone  in  the  late-Gothic  cloister  marks  the  grave  of  Janse- 
nius  (d,  1638),  Bishop  of  Ypres,  founder  of  the  sect  named  after 
him,  which  still  exists  in  Holland  (see  p.  366). 

To  the  E.  of  the  cathedral  and  adjoining  the  Hotel  de  Ville  is 
the  Conciergerie,  an  early  Renaissance  building. 

The  Meat  Market,  a  double-gabled  Gothic  house  in  the  Marche 
au  Beurre,  nearly  opposite  (to  the  S.W.  of )  the  Cloth  Hall,  contains 
the  Museum  {entrance  at  the  back,  1/2  fr.),  consisting  of  a  col- 
lection of  antiquities  (sword  with  which  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorn 
are  said  to  have  been  executed),  ancient  and  modern  pictures  (land- 
scape by  Rubens),  and  drawings  of  several  of  the  numerous  pic- 
turesque dwelling-houses  of  the  14-17th  cent.,  of  which  Y'pres  still 
possesses  a  few. 

The  wide  Rue  de  Lille,  opposite  the  Cloth  Hall,  leads  to  the  S. 
At  Nos.  36-38  in  this  street  (on  the  right)  is  the  Belle -Gasthuis  or 
Hospice  Civil  (fee),  an  asylum  for  old  women,  founded  about  1279 
by  Christine  de  Guines,  widow  of  Salomon  Belle,  and  rebuilt  in 
1616.  The  chapel,  with  statuettes  of  the  foundress  and  her  hus- 
band in  the  pediment,  contains  a  beautiful  copper  candelabrum 
(loth  cent.),  a  noteworthy  votive  painting  (Madonna  and  Child 
with  the  donor,  on  a  gold  ground),  and  a  polychrome  votive  relief, 
both  dating  from  1420.  — The  Steen,  Nos.  66-68  in  the  same  street, 
is  a  Gothic  edifice  of  hewn  stone  of  the  14th  cent.,  now  a  brewery. 
At  the  end  of  the  street  is  the  church  of  St.  Peter,  begun  in  1073; 
the  W.  portal  is  Romanesque;  the  interior  has  been  modernized.  — 
Other  interesting  houses  are  Nos.  115,  63-67,  52  Rue  de  Lille;  No. 
52  Rue  de  Dixmude,  to  the  N.  of  the  Cloth  Hall;  Nos.  47  and  43 
Marche  aux  Bois;  and  Nos.  11,  15,  and  19,  March^  aux  Betes.  — 
Ypres  is  the  seat  of  the  Belgian  Ecole  de  Cavalerie,  or  army 
riding- school. 

From  Ypres  to  Roeselare,  see  p.  32.  —  Steam-tranuray  to  (20  M.)  Fur- 
nes^  see  p.  31. 

Fkom  Ypkes  to  Poi'euinghe,  6V2  M.,  railway  in  1/2  hr.  Intermediate 
station  Vlamertinghe. —  Poperinghe,  a  town  with  11,200  inhab.,  possesses 
a  church  of  about  1300  with  an  interesting  W.  portal  and  a  carved  oaken 
pulpit.  Hops  are  extensively  grown  in  the  vicinity.  —  Beyond  Poperinghe 
the  line  crosses  the  French  frontier  and  joins  the  Lille  and  Calais  rail- 
way at  (191/2  M.)  Hazehrouck  (p.  64). 

Beyond  Ypres  the  line  is  continued  to  Comines  (p.  34),  Armen^ 
tieres,  and  Lille, 


FURNES.  5.  lioute.     31 

Q.  From  Ghent  to  Dunkirk  via  Lichtervelde,  67  M.,  rail- 
way in  31/2-^  trs.  (fares  8  fr.  25,  6  fr.  20,  4  fr.  15  c). 

47.2  M.  St.  Denis -Westrem;  0  M.  La  Pinte,  where  the  line 
from  Ghent  to  Oudenaarde,  Leuze,  and  Mons  diverges  to  the  left 
(see  p.  551;  '^\^2  ^I-  Deurle;  IOV'2  M.  Beynze,  on  the  Lei  or  i,t/.«, 
with  an  old  chnrch,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Courtrai  (^p.  5(3); 
14  ^[.  Grcnmnene'^  16  M.  Aerseele. 

2OV2  M-  Thielt,  an  old  town  with  10,300  inhah.,  formerly  a 
busy  cloth-making  place,  as  its  Cloth  Hall  and  Belfry  indicate. 
Branch-line  hence  to  (7M.)  Ingelinunster,  see  p.  33;  steam-tram- 
ways to  (10  M.)  Aeltre,  see  p.  10,  and  to  (13M.)  Ardoj/e,  see  below, 

231/2M.  Pitthem ;  26m.  Ardoye.  Steam-tramway  hence  to  (21  M.) 
HoogUede  (p.  32),  via  Roeselare  (p.  32).  —  31  M,  Lichtervelde,  the 
junction  of  the  Bruges  and  Courtrai  line  (see  p.  32).  —  35  M.  Corte- 
march,  the  junction  of  the  Osteud  and  Ypres  line  (see  p.  28). 

Next  stations:  Handzaeme,  Zarren,  Eessen. 

42  M.  Diksmuide,  Fr.  Dixmude,  the  parish-church  of  which 
contains  a  fine  rood-loft  of  the  beginning  of  the  16tli  cent.,  in  the 
richest  Flamboyant  style ,  an  Adoration  of  the  Magi  by  Jordaens 
(1644),  a  marble  font  with  a  bronze  cover  of  1626,  and  other  works 
of  art.  Dairy-farming  is  practised  with  great  success  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, and  a  brisk  trade  in  butter  is  carried  on  with  England. 

From  Diksmuide  to  Nieupokt,  li  M.,  railway  in  V^'V*  ^r.  —  5  M. 
Pervyse;  S  M.  Ramscappelle. 

9Vj  M.  Nieuport  (Ville  de  Liege;  Hot.  Breidel  en  de  Coning,  at  the 
station),  the  town,  a  small  and  quiet  place  on  the  Y$er,  with  3500inhab., 
formerly  fortified,  and  noted  for  its  obstinate  resistance  to  the  French  in 
1489.  The  most  interesting  buildings  are  the  Cloth  Hall  of  1480,  with  a 
lately  restored  Belfry,  and  the  Gothic  Church.  Outside  the  town,  on  the 
side  next  the  sea,  is  a  Liffhfhotise  built  in  1289. 

11  M.  meviTpoTt-B&ins  C Hotel  des  Bains,  'pens.'  8-10,  board  5fr.;  ^E6(el 
Privost;  R.,  L.,  &  A.  31/2,  B.  1,  dej.  21/^,  D.  31  2,  pens.  8-10,  board  5  f r. ; 
"Grand  Hot.  de  la  Digue;  R.  2-3,  dej.  2,  D.  3,  pens.  6-10  fr.  ;  H6t.  de  la  Mer, 
unpretending),  the  watering-place,  consists,  besides  the  above  hotels,  of  the 
Cursaal,  a  row  of  villas,  and  a  small  Roman  Catholic  church.  As  at  other 
Belgian  watering-places  a  Digue  has  been  constructed  along  the  dunes, 
j^t  one  end  of  which  is  an  Estacade  (see  p.  5),  V*  ^-  lo°gi  protecting  the 
entrance  to  the  Yser  and  forming  an  admirable  promenade.  Fine  view  of 
Ostend  and  Dunkirk.  The  sea  recedes  a  long  way  at  low  tide,  exposing 
a  vast  stretch  of  sand.  Good  sea-bathing  (75  c).  —  Steam-tramway  from 
Nieuport  to  Ostend  see  p.  3.  —  Oostduinkerke  and  La  Panne,  see  p.  7. 

48  M.  Oostkerke ;  49  M.  Ave-Cappelle. 

517.2  M.  Furnes,  Flemish  Veume  (Hotel  de  la  Noble  Rose), 
now  a  dull  town  with  4000  inhab.,  was  formerly  of  much  greater 
importance.  The  Hotel  de  Ville  in  the  quaint  old  Grand'  Place,  a 
Renaissance  structure  of  1596-1012  by  LievenLukas,  contains  some 
interesting  wall-hangings  of  Spanish  leather,  a  chimney-piece  with 
representations  of  still-life  by  Snyders  (?),  old  Flemish  tapestry, 
and  two  finely-carved  doors  (1623).  Adjacent  is  the  old  Chatellenie, 
now  the  Palais  de  Justice,  built  by  Sylvanus  Boulin  in  1612-1628. 
The  antechamber  on  the  first  floor  was  the  former  meeting  place  of 
the  Inquisition ;  the  adjoining  chapel  has  a  timber  roof  and  good 


32     Routed.  ROESELARE. 

wood-carvings  in  tlie  choir.  The  tall  Belfry,  ending  in  a  spire,  -was 
erected  in  1624.  The  Church  of  St.  Walburga  is  of  very  ancient  origin ; 
the  present  building  was  designed  at  the  heglnning  of  the  14th 
cent,  on  so  extensive  a  scale  that  only  the  choir,  witli  its  radiating 
chapels,  has  been  completed.  It  contains  finely  carved  choir-stalls 
(beginning  of  17th  cent.),  besides  a  Descent  from  the  Cross  at- 
tributed to  Pourbus  and  a  reliquary  ofthe  15th  cent,  (in  the  sacristy). 
On  tlie  E.  side  of  the  Grand'  Place  rises  the  castellated  Corps  de 
Garde  Espagnol  (13-14th  cent.),  adjoined  by  the  Gothic  Pavilion 
des  OfficiersEspagnols  (15th  cent.),  both  now  undergoing  restoration 
for  the  reception  ofthe  municipal  museum  and  library.  The  Church 
of  St.  Nicholas,  with  a  huge,  unfinished  tower,  dates  from  the  14th 
century.  Many  strangers  are  attracted  to  Furnes  by  the  great  pro- 
cession which  has  taken  place  here  annually  since  1650  on  the  last 
Sunday  in  July.  The  twelve  Stations  of  the  Cross  are  dramatically 
represented  on  this  occasion  by  the  members  of  the  Confrerie  de  la 
Sodalite,  with  the  help  of  wooden  figures.  —  Steam-tramway  to 
Ostend,  see  p.  3 ;  to  Ypres,  see  p.  29.  —  About  3J/2  M.  to  the  W. 
of  Furnes  is  La  Panne  (p.  7). 

The  next  station,  Adinkerke,  is  the  last  in  Belgium.  Ghyvelde 
is  the  first  French  station.  Then,  Zuydcote,  Roosendael,  Tente-Verte. 

67  M.  Dunkirk,  French  Dunkerque  (Grand  Hotel;  '''Chapeau 
Rouge;  Hotel  de  Flandre),  a  strongly-fortified  town  with  38,000 
inhab.,  in  the  Departement  du  Nord,  was  taken  by  the  English  in 
1388,  by  the  Spaniards  in  1583,  again  by  the  English  during  the 
•Protectorate  in  1658,  and  was  finally  purchased  by  Louis  XIV. 
from  Charles  11.  in  1662.  It  is  now  a  busy  commercial  place  and 
fishing-station.  A  considerable  English  community  resides  here 
(English  church).    Comp.  Baedeker  s  Northern  France. 


3.  From  Bruges  to  Courtrai,  33  M.,  railway  in  l^^-^  lirs. 
(fares  4  fr.  5,  3  fr.  5,  2  fr.  5  c).  Stations  Lophem  and  Zedelgem. 
—  11  M.  Thourout,  see  p.  28.  —  14  M.  Lichtervelde,  see  p.  31. 
Then  Gits  and  Beveren. 

19  M.  Koeselare,  French  Roulers  (Due  de  Brabant),  a  town 
with  20,200  inhab.,  high  above  which  rises  the  handsome  Gothic 
tower  of  the  church  of  St.  Michael.  Roeselare  carries  on  a  busy  trade 
in  linen  goods.  Here,  on  13th  July,  1794,  a  fierce  conflict  took  place 
between  the  Austrians  under  Clerfait,  and  the  French  under  Piche- 
gru  and  Macdonald,  in  which  the  latter  were  victorious.  This  defeat 
was  the  prelude  to  that  of  Fleurus  (p.  203),  thirteen  days  later. 

Bkancu-hne  to  Yi-KES,  14  M.  in  3|^  hr.  (fares  2  fr. ,  1  fr.  40,  90  c). 
Stations  Moorslede-Passcheiidaele,  Zoiineielce,  Ypres  (p.  28).  —  From  Roeselare 
to  Meniu,  11  M.,  branch-railway  in  25-40  min.  (fares  1  fr.  40,  1  fr.  5,  70  c). 
Stations  Bey  them,  Ledeghem-Dadizeele,  i/e«m,(p.  34).  —  To  HooghUde  and 
to  Ardoye,  see  p.  31. 

21  M.  Rumheke  possesses  a  fine  Gothic  church  and  a  chateau 
of  Count  de  Thiennes.    2372  ^I-  Iseghem,  with  9000  inhab. ,  con- 


OITDENAARDE.  6.  Route.     33 

tains  numerous  linen-factories.  Tobacco  is  extensively  cultivated 
in  the  environs.  Between  Iseghem  and  (26  M.)  Ingelmilnster,  a 
small  town  with  extensive  carpet-manufactories,  is  the  handsome 
chateau  of  Baron  Gilles. — From  Ingelmiinster  branch-lines  diverge 
to  Thielt  (p.  311  and  to  Waereghem  (see  p.  55).  —  28  M.  Lende- 
lede ;  30  M.  Heule,  the  Gothic  church  of  which  has  a  clumsy  tower. 
Near  Courtrai  the  traiTi  crosses  the  Lei  (or  Lys'). 
33  M.  Courtrai,  see  p.  56. 

6.  From  Brussels  to  Courtrai  and  Ypres. 

Railway  from  Brussels  to  Courirai\  54  M.,  in  '2-'2','2  hrs.  (fares  6  fr. 
60,  4  fr.  95.  3  fr.  30  c. ;  express  8  fr.  25,  6  fr.  20,  4  fr.  15  c.) ;  from  Cour- 
trai to  Ypres,  21  M.,  in  1  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  60.  1  fr.  95,  1  fr.  30  c).  —  Depar- 
ture in  Brussels  from  the  station  du  Nord  (p.  72). 

From  Brussels  to  [ib  ^l,}  JDenderleeuw,  see  p.  11.  The  line 
to  Ghent  and  Ostend  (R.  3)  here  diverges  to  the  N.AV.,  and  that 
to  Grammont  and  Ath-Juibise  (p.  69)  to  the  S.W.  Our  line 
enters  E.  Flanders,  and  passes  Haeltert,  Burst  (branch  to  Alost), 
and  Herzeele.  27  M.  Sotteyhem,  a  small  town  of  2900  inhab.,  with 
several  boot  and  shoe  manufactories ,  is  the  junction  of  the  Ghent 
and  Grammont  line  (R.  20)  and  of  a  line  to  EUezelles  (p.  70). 

The  next  stations  are  Rooborst^  Boucle-St.  Denis- Nederzwalm, 
and  Eename. 

38  M.  Oudenaarde,  Fr.  Audenarde  (^Pomme  d^Or,  Grand'  Place; 
Saumon,  Rue  Haute,  both  near  the  Hotel  de  Yille ;  Hotel  de  Bru- 
xelles,  with  cafe',  opposite  the  station),  a  very  ancient  town  with 
5700  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Schelde,  possesses  manufactories  of 
linen  and  cotton  goods.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Margaret  of  Parma 
(b.  15221,  regent  of  the  Netherlands  under  Philip  IT.,  a  natural 
daughter  of  Emp.  Charles  V.  and  Johanna  van  der  Gheenst.  Under 
the  walls  of  the  town,  on  11th  July,  1708,  the  Allies  commanded 
by  Marlborough  and  Prince  Eugene  of  Savoy  gained  a  decisive 
victory  over  the  French.  An  hour  is  sufficient  for  a  visit  to  the 
beautiful  Hotel  de  Yille,  or  town-hall. 

The  street  to  the  right,  nearly  opposite  the  station,  leads  in 
10  min.  to  the  centre  of  the  town.  At  the  entrance  to  the  town 
stands  a  monument  (by  Geefs)  to  volunteers  from  Oudenaarde  who 
perished  in  Mexico  while  serving  under  Emp.  Maximilian. 

We  next  reach  the  Place  in  which  is  situated  the  **Town  Hall, 
a  small,  but  very  elegant  building,  erected  in  the  late-Gothic  style 
by  H.  van  Peede  and  W.  de  Ronde  in  1525-35,  and  recently  restor- 
ed. The  ground-floor  consists  of  a  pointed  hall  borne  by  columns 
and  above  it  are  two  stories  with  pointed  windows.  The  tower 
which  rises  from  the  pointed  hall  in  the  centre  of  the  facade  is 
particularly  rich.  It  consists  of  five  stories,  and  is  covered  with  a 
crown-shaped  roof.  The  numerous  statuettes  with  which  the  build- 
ing was   once  embellished  have  all  disappeared.    We   ascend  the 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    lOtli  Edit.  3 


34     Route!.  GHENT. 

flight  of  steps  opposite  the  Hotel  Pomme  d'Or,  leading  to  the  Salle 
des  Pas  Perdus,  which  contains  a  late-Gotliic  chimney-piece.  Pass- 
ing through  the  door  beyond,  to  the  right,  we  find  an  attendant 
(50  c),  who  opens  the  council-chamber.  The  portal  of  this  room, 
a  masterpiece  of  wood-carving,  was  executed  by  Paul  van  Schel- 
den  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1531 ;  the  handsome  late-Gothic 
chimney-piece  dates  from  1529. 

In  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Place,  to  the  right  as  we  quit  the 
town-hall,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Walburga ,  partly  in  the  Roman- 
esque style  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  partly  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the 
14th  and  15th,  with  a  very  prominent  transept.  The  massive  and 
well-proportioned  tower  has  unfortunately  been  left  unfinished. 
The  interior  contains  paintings  by  De  Grayer,  Van  Thulden,  and 
others,  and  a  rich  polychrome  reredos  of  the  late  Renaissance  (first 
chapel  on  the  N.  side). 

The  church  of  Notre  Dame  de  Pamele,  8min.  farther  to  the  S., 
on  the  other  bank  of  the  Schelde,  an  interesting  example  of  the 
transition  style  of  the  13th  cent.,  with  later  additions  and  an  oct- 
angular tower  above  the  cross,  has  recently  been  successfully  re- 
stored.  It  contains  two  sarcophagus-monuments  of  1504  and  1616. 

From  Oadenaarde  to  Ghent  or  Mons,  see  p.  55.  —  Steam-tramway  to 
(11  Vz  M.)  Deynze,  see  p.  31. 

The  next  stations  are  Peteghem  and  Anseghem^  the  first  place 
in  West  Flanders ,  whence  a  branch-line  runs  to  Waereghem  and 
Ingelmiinster  (p.  33).    Then  Vichte  and  Deerlyck. 

54  M.  Courtrai,  see  p.  56. 

58Y2M.  Wevelghem.  61 1/2  M.  Menin,  Flem.  Meenen,  a  town  on 
the  Lei,  with  11,700  inhab.,  once  fortified,  where  the  Prussian 
General  Scharnhorst  (d.  1813)  first  distinguished  himself  against 
the  French.  Branch-line  hence  toRoeselare,  see  p. 32;  another  runs 
S.  to  St.  Amand  in  France.  —  65  M.  Wervicq,  Avith  7000  inhab., 
possesses  a  number  of  tobacco-manufactories ;  the  Church  of  St.  Me- 
dardus  dates  from  the  14th  century.  The  right  bank  of  the  Lei  or 
Lys  here  is  French  territory.  —  67  M.  Comines.,  formerly  a  fortified 
town,  was  the  birthplace  ofthe  historian  Philip  of  Comines(d.  1509). 
Branch-lines  hence  to  Lille  and  to  Armentieres  in  France,  see  p.  64. 
—  69^2  ^'  Houthem. 

75  M.  Ypres,  see  p.  28. 

7.  Ghent,  French  Gand. 

Arrival.  Ghent  has  three  railway-stations:  1.  Station  du  Cketnin  de 
Fer  de  VEtat  (PI.  1),  5.6),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  for  the  trains  ofthe 
government-lines  to  Brussels,  Antwerp,  Terneuzen,  Oudenaarde,  Malines, 
Bmges,  Courtrai,  and  Braine-le-Comte.  —  2.  Station  du  Pays  de  Waes  (PI.  E, 
3,  4),  for  the  trains  throu^'h  the  Waesland  to  Antwerp  (R.  10).  —  3.  Station 
d'Eecloo  (PI.  E,  3),  for  the  trains  to  Terneuzen  (p.  10)  and  Bruges  via  Eecloo 
(p.  lU).  The  last  two,  adjoining  each  other,  are  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town, 
1  M.  from  the  government-station. 

Hotels.     'Hotel  ue  la  Poste  (PI.  c;  C,  5),  Place  d'Armes  13 j   Hotel 


GHENT.  7.  Route.     35 

RoTAi  (PI.  b;  C,  6),  Place  d'Armea  7;  charges  at  both  these:  R.  from  3, 
L.  V2-I,  A.l,  B.IV2,  d^j.3,  D.  4,  pens.  12  fr.  —  Hotel  de  Vienne  (PI.  a; 
C,  4),  in  the  Marche  awx  Grains,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2J/2-4,  B.  11/4,  d^j,  31/2,  D. 

4,  pens.  8,  omn.  1/2  fr. ;  cafe  adjoining;  Hotel  de  l'Etoile  (PI.  d;  C,  4), 
Rue  de  TEtoile  27,  near  the  Marche  anx  Grains,  R.,  L.,  <fe  A.  31/2,  D.  2,  pens. 

10  fr.  •,  Hotel  d'Allemagxe,  March^  aux  Grains,  unpretending,  well  spoken 
of,  R.  <fc  B.  3,  D.  2  fr. ;  Adx  Akmes  de  Zeelande,  March^  anx  Grains.  —  At 
the  Ooveiitment  Station:  Geande  Couk  Rotale.  Rue  de  la  Station  3;  Hotel 
de  la  Paix,  well  spoken  of,  opposite  the  station,  with  restaurant;  etc. 

Restaurants.  "Mottez,  Avenue  Place  d'Armes  3;  Bouard,  Rue  Courte  de 
la  Croix  2,  near  the  cathedral;  Lion  d'Or.,  Place  du  Lion  d'Or,  near  the 
Hotel  de  Ville ;  Rocher  de  Cancale  (also  rooms),  corner  of  the  3Iarche  aux 
Oiseaux  and  the  Rue  Courte  du  Jour  (PI.  D,  5;  'plat  du  jour',  75  c.); 
Taverne  St.  Jean,  Marche  aux  Oi.seaux2;  Taverne  de  VOpira^  opposite  the 
Theatre,  at  the  corner  of  the  Place  d'Armes  ;  Klaus.,  Rue  de  la  Crapaudiere  7, 
next  the  University  (Munich  beer);  Kotonde,  Boulevard  de  la  Citadelle. 

Cafes.  'Grand  Caf^,  Rue  Longue  duMarais,  near  the  Place  d'Armes, 
also  a  restaurant;  'Caf^  des  Arcades,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Place  d' Amies 
(PI.  C,  5),  also  restaurant;  Cafi  Royal,  in  the  Theatre  (PI.  25),  etc.  — 
Uitzet,  a  kind  of  strong  beer  brewed  in  Ghent,  is  famous  ;  best  at  the  Flettr 
de  BU    (Korenbloem),  Rue  d'Akkerghem  (PI.  A,  B,  4,  5). 

Cabs  per  drive  1  fr.  ;    first  hour  2,   each  following  hour  IV2  fr. ;  after 

11  p.  m.,  per  drive  IVa  fr. ;  open  cab.,  V2  fr.  extra  per  hr.  —  Tramway, 
see  Plan. 

Theatre  (PI.  2-0;  C,  5),  adjoining  the  Place  d'Armes.     Boxes  and  stalls 

5,  parquet  21/2,  pit  1  fr.  Performances  (in  French)  in  winter  only.  Flemish 
Theatre  or  Minard-Sc/iouwbnrg  (PL  20;  D,  5),  Rue  Neuve  St.  Pierre;  Eden 
Theatre,  Rue  Courte  du  .Jour  (a  theatre  of  varieties). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  22;  C,  5),  adjoining  the  Theatre,  and 
opposite  the  Palais  de  Justice;  other  telegraph-offices  at  the  government- 
.station  and  the  Marche  aiix  Legumes. 

English  Church  (St.  John's).  Place  St.  Jacques;  services  at  10.30  and 
G.30;  Communion  at  8.45  a.m.,  except  on  1st  and  3rd  Sun.  of  each  month; 
chaplain,  Rev.  T.  S.  Cunningham,  37  Kue  de  TEcole,  Mt,  St.  Amand.  — 
Sailors''  Institute,  at  the  Docks;  concerts  on  alternate  Tucs.  &  Frid. 

American  Consul,  Mr.  John  B.  Osborne,  Rue  des  Champs  12.  —  Eng- 
lish Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Hallett,  Rue  Fie've  30. 

Physicians  (English-speaking).  Dr.  J.  Morel-Davis,  Hospice  Ghislain; 
Dr.  Eeman.  Rue  Digue  de  Brabant  95.  —  English  Chemist,  Moriarty, 
Kue  Guillaume  Tell  7. 

Principal  Attractions :  Cathedral  (p.  38),  view  from  the  tower  of  St.  Bavon 
or  from  the  Belfry  (p.  43);  Hotel  de  Ville,  exterior  only  (p.  44);  Marche  du 
Vendredi  (p.  45),  Marche  aux  Herbes  (p.  49),  Marche  aux  Grains  (p.  48), 
Abbey  of  St.  Bavon  (p.  46),  larger  or  smaller  Be'guinage  (pp.  47,  48),  the 
latter  being  quainter  and  more  easily  reached. 

Ghent  or  Gancl,  the  capital  of  E.  Inlanders,  with  150,000  iuhab., 
lies  on  the  Schelde  and  the  Lei  (Lys),  as  well  as  on  the  insignificant 
Lieve  and  Moere,  which  flow  through  the  city  in  numerous  arms,  cross- 
ed by  more  than  100  bridges  of  various  kinds.  The  city  is  of  con- 
siderable extent,  being  upwards  of  6  M.  in  circumference ,  and 
covering  an  area  of  5750  acres,  part  of  which,  however,  is  occupied 
with  gardens  and  bleaching-grounds.  A  wide  canal,  originally  con- 
structed in  order  to  protect  the  town  from  inundations,  and  recently 
enlarged  and  deepened,  falls  into  the  Schelde  at  Terneuzen  (p.  10), 
and  thus  connects  the  city  with  the  sea,  but  since  the  separation  of 
Belgium  from  Holland  has  been  comparatively  little  used  on  account 
of  the  heavy  imposts  levied  by  the  latter  on  vessels  passing  through. 
Another  canal  {Coupure^  p.  52)  connects  the  Lei  with  the  canal 

3* 


36     Route  7.  GHENT.  History. 

from  Bruges  to  Osteiid,  which  is  in  its  turn  connected  by  the  'New 
Canal'  (Canal  de  Raccordenient)  with  the  Canal  from  Ternenzen 
(p.  10).  Corn,  rape-oil,  and  flax  are  important  articles  of  commerce, 
hut  the  products  for  which  Ghent  has  lonn;  been  famous  are  cotton 
and  linen  goods,  dyed-leather  wares,  and  lace.  The  large  linen- 
factory  'La  Lys"  (PI.  A,  3,  4-)  employs  about  3000  operatives.  Of 
late  the  engine-factories  of  Ghent  have  become  considerable. 

Ghent  is  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  7th  century.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  when  the  County  of  Artois  was 
united  to  France,  Ghent  became  the  capital  of  Flanders  and  the 
usual  residence  of  the  Counts.  At  a  very  early  period  a  spirit  of 
independence  developed  itself  among  the  inhabitants,  more  especi- 
ally the  weavers;  and  they  succeeded  in  obtaining  from  their 
sovereigns  those  concessions  which  form  the  foundation  of  consti- 
tutional liberty.  At  one  period  the  citizens  had  become  so  power- 
ful and  warlike  that  they  succeeded  in  repulsing  an  English  army 
of  24,000  men,  under  Edward  I.  (1297),  and  a  few  years  later 
they  were  the  principal  combatants  in  the  'Battle  of  Spurs'  (p.  57), 
to  the  issue  of  which  their  bravery  mainly  contributed.  Their  sub- 
jection to  the  Counts  of  Flanders  and  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy 
appears  to  have  been  little  more  than  nouiinal ;  for  whenever  these 
princes  attempted  to  levy  a  tax  which  was  unpopular  with  the 
citizens,  the  latter  sounded  their  alarm-bell,  flew  to  arms,  and  ex- 
pelled the  obnoxious  ofiicials  appointed  to  exact  payment.  During 
the  13-1 5th  centuries  revolutions  seem  almost  to  have  been  the  or- 
der of  the  day  at  Ghent.   John  of  Gaunt  (d.  1399)  was  bom  here. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  characters  of  his  age  was  Jacques 
Van  Artevelde,  the  celebrated  'Brewer  of  Ghent'  (born  1290),  a 
clever  and  ambitious  demagogue,  who,  though  of  noble  family,  is 
said  to  have  caused  himself  to  be  enrolled  as  a  member  of  the  Guild 
of  Brewers  in  order  to  ingratiate  himself  with  the  lower  classes. 
Owing  to  his  wealth,  ability,  and  remarkable  eloquence,  he  acquired 
immense  influence,  and  in  1337  was  appointed  'Captain  of  Ghent'. 
lie  was  an  ally  of  Edward  111.  in  the  war  between  England  and 
France  (1335-45),  in  which  the  democratic  party  of  Ghent  sup- 
ported the  former,  and  the  Counts  of  Flanders  the  latter ;  and  it  is 
recorded  that  Edward  condescended  to  flatter  him  by  the  title  of 
'dear  gossip'.  For  seven  years  Artevelde  reigned  supreme  at  Ghent, 
putting  to  death  all  who  had  the  misfortune  to  displease  him, 
banishing  the  nobles  and  those  who  betrayed  symptoms  of  attach- 
ment to  their  sovereign,  and  appointing  magistrates  who  were  the 
mere  slaves  of  his  will.  Artevelde  qt  length  proposed  that  the  son 
of  Edward  should  be  elected  Count  of  Flanders,  a  scheme  so  dis- 
tasteful to  the  Ghenters  that  an  insurrection  broke  out,  and  Jacques 
was  slain  in  his  own  house  on  July  17th,  1345,  by  Gerard  Denys, 
the  leader  of  his  opponents.  During  this  period,  in  consequence 
of  the  alliance  with  Ghent,  the  manufacture  of  wool  became  more  ex- 


History.  GHENT.  7.  Route.     37 

tensively  known  and  practised  in  England.  Ghent  also  realised  vast 
profits  from  its  English  trade,  a  circumstance  which  induced  the 
citizens  to  submit  so  long  to  the  despotic  rule  of  Jacques,  to  whom 
they  owed  their  advantageous  connection  with  England, 

Philip  Van  Artevelde,  son  of  Jacques,  and  godson  of  Queen 
Philippa  of  England,  possessed  all  the  ambition  but  little  of  the 
talent  of  his  father.  He  was  appointed  dictator  by  the  democratic 
party  in  1381,  during  the  civil  war  against  Count  Louis  of  Flan- 
ders, surnamed  'van  Maele',  and  his  administration  was  at  first 
salutary  and  judicious,  but  he  soon  began  to  act  with  all  the  caprice  of 
a  despot.  In  May,  1382,  when  Ghent  was  reduced  to  extremities  by 
famine,  and  the  citizens  had  resolved  to  surrender,  Philip  counselled 
them  to  make  a  final  venture,  rather  than  submit  to  the  humiliating 
conditions  offered  by  the  Count.  He  accordingly  marched  at  the 
head  of  5000  men  to  Bruges,  and  signally  defeated  Louis,  who 
sallied  forth  to  meet  them.  Elated  by  this  success,  Philip  now 
assumed  the  title  of  Regent  of  Flanders,  and  established  himself  at 
Ghent  in  a  style  of  great  magnificence.  His  career,  however,  was 
brief.  At  the  end  of  1382  war  again  broke  out,  chiefly  owing  to  the 
impolitic  and  arrogant  conduct  of  Philip  himself,  and  Charles  VL 
of  France  marched  against  Flanders.  Philip  was  defeated  and  slain 
at  the  disastrous  Battle  of  Roosebeke  (Nov.  27th,  1382),  where 
20,000  Flemings  are  said  to  have  perished.  The  city  was  obliged  to 
submit  to  the  Count,  and  after  his  death  came  into  the  possession  of 
Burgundy. 

The  turbulent  spirit  of  the  Ghenters  ultimately  proved  their 
ruin.  In  1448,  when  Philippe  le  Bon  of  Burgundy  imposed  a  heavy 
tax  on  salt,  they  openly  declared  war  against  him ;  and  the  best 
proof  of  the  vastness  of  their  resources  is  that  they  succeeded  in 
carrying  on  the  war  for  a  period  of  five  years  (1448-53).  The  day 
of  retribution  and  humiliation,  however,  at  length  arrived,  and  the 
burghers,  brave  but  undisciplined,  were  compelled  to  succumb. 
On  23rd  July,  1453,  they  were  defeated  at  Gavre  (p.  55)  on  the 
Schelde,  and  lost  no  fewer  than  16,000  men.  Philip  now  levied 
enormous  contributions  on  the  city  ;  the  corporation  and  princi- 
pal citizens  were  compelled  to  march  out  at  the  gate  with  halters 
round  their  necks ,  and  to  kiss  the  dust  at  the  feet  of  their  con- 
queror ;  and  the  most  valuable  privileges  of  the  city  were  suspended 
or  cancelled. 

In  1477  the  nuptials  of  the  Archduke  Maximilian  were  celebrated 
at  Ghent  with  Mary  of  Burgundy,  heiress  of  Charles  the  Bold,  who 
by  her  marriage  brought  the  wealthy  Netherlands  into  the  power  of 
Austria  (see  p.  17).  On  the  same  occasion  the  first  general  consti- 
tution of  the  Netherlands  (Het  Groot  Privilegie),  granted  by  Mary, 
was  promulgated  here.  Here,  too,  on  24th  Feb.,  1500,  the  Emperor 
Charles  V.  was  born  in  the  Cour  du  Prince,  a  palace  of  the  Counts 
of  Flanders  long  since  destroyed,  but  the  name  of  which  survives 


38     Route  7.  GHENT.  Cathedral. 

in  a  street  (see  p.  51).  During  his  reign  Ghent  was  one  of  the 
largest  and  wealthiest  cities  in  Europe ,  and  consisted  of  35,000 
houses  with  a  population  of  175,000  souls.  Charles  V.  is  said  to  have 
"boasted  jestingly  to  Francis  I.  of  France:  ^Mon  Gant  (glove),  Paris 
danserait  dedans'.  The  turbulent  spirit  of  the  citizens  having  again 
manifested  itself  in  various  ebullitions,  the  emperor  caused  a  Citadel 
(Het  Spanjaards  Kasteel)  to  be  erected  near  the  Antwerp  Gate  in 
1540,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  them  in  check.  No  trace  of  the 
structure  now  remains.  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorn  were  im- 
prisoned in  this  castle  in  1568  for  several  months  before  their 
execution.  Within  its  precincts  lay  the  ancient  Abbey  of  St. 
Bavon  (p.  46).  The  moats  of  the  old  citadel  have  recently  been  filled 
up,  and  the  remains  of  the  ramparts  removed  to  make  room  for 
new  streets. 

From  the  station  of  the  Government  line  (p.  34)  the  broad  new 
Rue  de  Flandre  (PI.  D,  5)  leads  towards  the  inner  town,  to  the 
Place  Laurent,  a  square  built  over  a  covered  arm  of  the  Schelde 
and  named  after  the  historian  and  jurist  Fr.  Laurent  (d.  1887).  In 
the  square  is  the  monument  of  L.  Bauwens  (d.  1822),  the  industria- 
list, by  P.  Devigne-Quyo.  To  the  right  (N.)  of  the  monument,  on 
the  Schelde,  which  in  the  Middle  Ages  here  marked  the  boundary 
between  the  German  Empire  and  France,  rises  the  Chateau  de 
Gerard  le  Diable  or  Geerardduivelsteen  (13th  cent.),  the  strong- 
hold of  an  aristocratic  family,  now  used  as  firemen's  barracks  and 
for  the  provincial  archives.  To  inspect  the  interesting  crypt,  apply 
to  the  Concierge  des  Archives,  Place  de  I'Eveche  (p.  43).  The 
building  is  about  to  be  restored. 

From  the  Place  Laurent  the  Rue  de  Limbourg  leads  to  the 
cathedral. 

The  *Cathedral  of  St.  Bavon,  or  Sint  Baafs  (PL  D,  4),  ex- 
ternally a  plain  and  unattractive  Gothic  structure,  is  in  the  in- 
terior one  of  the  most  richly  -  decorated  churches  in  Belgium. 
The  crypt  was  consecrated  in  941,  the  W.  portions  about  1228; 
the  choir  was  founded  in  1274,  and  completed  in  1300;  the  late- 
Gothic  chapels  date  from  the  15th  cent.  ;  and  the  nave  and  transept 
were  completed  in  1533-54.  During  the  same  century  the  church 
suffered  severely  from  Puritanical  outrages.  The  tower  and  the  W. 
and  S.  portals  have  recently  been  skilfully  restored  ;  and  the  restora- 
tion of  the  interior  is  also  nearly  completed. 

The  Interior  is  of  noble  proportions,  and  rests  on  massive 
square  pillars  with  projecting  half-columns.  The  removal  of  the 
whitewash  now  permits  the  artistic  effect  of  the  different  coloured 
stones  to  be  seen.  (The  Cathedral  is  open  for  the  inspection  of  its 
art-treasures  from  10  a.m.  ;  between  12  and  4  admission  is  obtained 
by  knocking  loudly  on  the  central  door ;  fee  to  the  sacristan  who 
opens  the  chapels,  1  fr.  each  person.) 

On  the  upper  walls  of  the  Nave  are  the  names  and  armorial 


Cathedral.  GHENT.  7.  Route.     39 

bearings  of  Knights  of  the  Golden  Fleece,  the  last  chapter  of  which 
was  held  here  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain  in  1559.  To  the  left  (N.)  of 
the  portal  is  the  font  at  which  Charles  Y,  was  baptised  in  1500. 
The  *Pulpit,  by  Delvaux  (1745),  half  in  oak,  half  in  marble,  re- 
presents the  Tree  of  Life,  with  an  allegory  of  Time  and  Truth ;  it  is 
the  best  example  of  Belgian  sculpture  in  the  18th  century. 

S.  Aisle,  1st  Chapel :  G.  de  Crayer,  Beheading  of  John  the  Baptist 
(1657).   —  3rd,  behind  the  pulpit:  De  Cauwer,  Baptism  of  Christ. 

North  Aislb.  Ist  Chapel:  RomboutSj  Descent  from  the  Cross'; 
A.  Janssens,  Pieti.  —  The  3rd  Chapel  is  embellished  with  taste- 
ful modern  ornamentation  in  the  Gothic  style.  —  4th :  De  Crayer, 
Assumption.  A  marble  slab  opposite  records  the  names  ^of  the 
priests  who  refused  to  recognise  Bishop  Lebrun,  appointed  by  Na- 
poleon in  1813. 

Tbaxsept.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  choir  are 
statues  of  the  Apostles  by  C.  van  Poucke,  1782.  —  Ten  steps  lead 
up  to  the  choir. 

Choir.  The  walls  are  partly  covered  with  black  marble,  and 
the  balustrades  are  of  white  or  variegated  marble.  The  high-altar  is 
adorned  with  a  Statue  of  St.  Bavon  in  his  ducal  robes,  hovering 
among  the  clouds,  by  Verbruggen  (17th  cent.).  The  choir-stalls  are 
of  carved  mahogany.  The  scenes  in  grisaille  from  the  Old  and  New 
Testament  are  by  Van  Reysschoot  (1774).  The  four  massive  copper 
Candlesticks  bearing  the  English  arms  are  believed  once  to  have  de- 
corated St.  Paul's  in  London,  and  to  have  been  sold  during  the  Pro- 
tectorate of  Cromwell.  On  each  side  of  the  choir,  adjoining  the 
altar,  are  two  monuments  to  bishops,  with  large  sculptures  of  the 
17th  and  18th  cent.,  the  best  of  them  being  that  of  Bishop  A.  Triest 
by  Duquesnoy  (1654),  the  first  to  the  left. 

Retro-Choir,  beginning  by  the  S.  transept.  1st  Chapel :  *Pour- 
bus ,  Christ  among  the  doctors ;  most  of  the  heads  are  portraits  : 
left,  near  the  frame,  Alva,  Charles  V.,  Philip  11.,  and  the  master  him- 
self; on  the  inner  wings  the  Baptism  and  Circumcision,  on  the 
outerthe  Saviour  and  the  donor  (Viglius)  of  the  picture,  1571.  —  2nd: 
Monument  to  the  brothers  Goethals,  by  Parmentier^  1846.  —  3rd : 
Gerard  van  der  Metre  (p.  xli),  Christ  between  the  malefactors,  with 
Moses  striking  water  from  the  rock  and  the  Raising  of  the  brazen 
serpent  on  the  wings,  the  whole  of  mediocre  merit.  — By  the  choir- 
screen,  monument  of  Bishop  Van  Smet  (d.  1741).  —  4th  and  5th : 
Nothing  worthy  of  note.  —  We  now  ascend  the  steps. 

6th :  **Jan  and  Hubert  van  Eyck,  Adoration  of  the  Immaculate 
Lamb,  '  prsestantissima  tabula,  qua  representatur  triumphus  Agni 
Dei,  etsi  quidam  improprie  dicunt  Adami  et  Evse,  opus  sane  prae- 
clarum  et  admirandum'  [Guicciardini,  1560;  comp.  also  p.  xxxix). 
This  work  originally  consisted  of  twelve  sections,  but  is  in  part  only 
in  its  original  place,  the  wings  being  now,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Adam  and  Eve  (at  Brussels,  p.  101),   in  the  gallery  of  Berlin. 


40     Route  7.  GHENT.  Cathedral. 

'In  the  centre  of  the  altarpiece,  and  on  a  panel  which  overtops  all 
the  others,  the  noble  and  dignified  figure  of  Christ  sits  enthroned  in  the 
prime  of  manhood  with  a  short  black  beard,  a  broad  forehead,  and  black 
eyes.  On  his  head  is  the  white  tiara,  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of 
diamonds,  pearls,  and  amethysts.  Two  dark  lappets  fall  on  either  side 
of  the  grave  and  youthful  face.  The  throne  of  black  damask  is  em- 
broidered with  gold;  the  tiara  relieved  on  a  golden  ground  covered  with 
inscriptions  in  semicircular  lines.  Christ  holds  in  his  left  hand  a  sceptre 
of  splendid  workmanship,  and  with  two  fingers  of  his  right  he  gives  his 
blessing  to  the  world.  The  gorgeous  red  mantle  which  completely 
enshrouds  his  form  is  fastened  at  the  breast  by  a  large  jewelled  brooch. 
The  mantle  itself  is  bordered  with  a  double  row  of  pearls  and  amethysts. 
The  feet  rest  on  a  golden  pedestal,  carpeted  with  black,  and  on  the  dark 
ground,  which  is  cut  into  perspective  squares  by  lines  of  gold,  lies  a 
richly-jewelled  open-worked  crown,  emblematic  of  martyrdom.  This 
figure  of  the  Redeemer  is  grandly  imposing;  the  mantle,  though  laden 
with  precious  stones,  in  obedience  to  a  somewhat  literal  interpretation 
of  Scripture,  falls  from  the  shoulders  and  over  the  knee  to  the  feet  in 
ample  and  simple  folds.  The  colour  of  the  flesh  is  powerful ,  brown, 
and  glowing,  and  full  of  vigour,  that  of  the  vestments  strong  and  rich. 
The  hands  are  well  drawn,  perhaps  a  little  contracted  in  the  muscles, 
but  still  of  startling  realism.  —  On  the  right  of  Christ  the  Virgin  sits 
in  her  traditional  robe  of  blue;  her  long  fair  hair,  bound  to  the  forehead 
by  a  diadem,  flowing  in  waves  down  her  shoulders.  With  most  graceful 
hands  she  holds  a  book,  and  pensively  looks  with  a  placid  and  untroubled 
eye  into  space.  On  the  left  of  the  Eternal,  St.  John  the  Baptist  rests, 
long-haired  and  bearded,  austere  in  expression,  splendid  in  form,  and 
covered  with  a  broad,  flowing,  green  drapery.  On  the  spectator's  right 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  St.  Cecilia,  in  a  black  brocade,  plays  on  an 
oaken  organ  supported  by  three  or  four  angels  with  viols  or  harps.  On 
the  left  of  the  Virgin  a  similar  but  less  beautiful  group  of  singing 
choristers  standing  in  front  of  an  oaken  desk,  the  foremost  of  them  dressed 
in  rich  and  heavy  red  brocade.  (Van  Mander  declares  that  the  angels 
who  sing  are  so  artfully  done  that  we  mark  the  dift'erence  of  keys 
in  which  their  voices  are  pitched.)  —  On  the  spectator's  right  of  St. 
Cecilia  once  stood  the  naked  figure  of  Eve,  now  removed  to  the  Brussels 
museum  —  a  figure  upon  which  the  painter  seems  to  have  concentrated 
all  his  knowledge  of  perspective  as  applied  to  the  human  form  and  its 
anatomical  development.  Counterpart  to  Eve,  and  once  on  the  left  side 
of  the  picture,  Adam  is  equally  remarkable  for  correctness  of  proportion 
and  natural  realism.  Here  again  the  master's  science  in  optical  perspective 
is  conspicuous,  and  the  height  of  the  figure  above  the  eye  is  fitly  con- 
sidered. (Above  the  figures  of  Adam  and  Eve  are  miniature  groups  of 
the  sacrifices  of  Cain  and  Abel  and  the  death  of  Abel.).' 

'Christ,  by  his  position,  presides  over  the  sacrifice  of  the  Lamb  as 
represented  in  the  lower  panels  of  the  shrine.  The  scene  of  the  sacrifice 
is  laid  in  a  landscape  formed  of  green  hills  receding  in  varied  and 
pleasing  lines  from  the  foreground  to  the  extreme  distance.  A  Flemish 
city,  meant,  no  doubt,  to  represent  Jerusalem,  is  visible  chiefly  in  the 
background  to  the  right;  but  churches  and  monasteries,  built  in  the 
style  of  the  early  edifices  of  the  Netherlands  and  Rhine  country,  boldly 
raise  their  domes  and  towers  above  every  part  of  the  horizon,  and  are 
sharply  defined  on  a  sky  of  pale  grey  gradually  merging  into  a  deeper 
hue.  The  trees,  which  occupy  the  middle  ground,  are  not  of  high  growth, 
nor  are  they  very  difl'erent  in  colour  from  the  undulating  meadows  in 
which  they  stand.  They  are  interspersed  here  and  there  with  cypresses, 
and  on  the  left  is  a  small  date-palm.  The  centre  of  the  picture  is  all 
meadow  and  green  slope,  from  a  foreground  strewed  with  daisies  and 
dandelions  to  the  distant  blue  hills.'" 

'In  the  very  centre  of  the  picture  a  square  altar  is  hung  with  red 
damask  and  covered  with  white  cloth.  Here  stands  a  lamb,  from  whose 
breast  a  stream  of  blood  issues  into  a  crystal  glass.  Angels  kneel  round 
the  altar  with  parti-coloured  wings  and  variegated  dresses,  many  of  them 


Cathedral.  GHENT.  7.  Route.    41 

praying  with  joined  hands,  others  holding  aloft  the  emblems  of  the  pas- 
sion, two  in  front  waving  censers.  From  a  slight  depression  of  the 
ground  to  the  right,  a  little  behind  the  altar,  a  numerous  Itand  of  female 
saints  is  issuing,  all  in  rich  and  varied  costumes,  fair  hair  floating  over 
their  shoulders  ,  and  palms  in  their  hands ;  foremost  may  be  noticed  St. 
Barbara  with  the  tower  and  St.  Agnes.  From  a  similar  opening  on  the 
left,  popes,  cardinals,  bishops,  monks,  and  minor  clergy  advance,  some 
holding  croziers  and  crosses,  other  palms.  This,  as  it  were,  forms  one 
phase  of  the  adoration.  In  the  centre  near  the  base  of  the  picture  a 
small  octagonal  fountain  of  stone,  with  an  iron  jet  and  tiny  spouts, 
projects  a  stream  into  a  rill,  whose  pebbly  bottom  is  seen  through  the 
pellucid  water.  The  fountain  and  the  altar,  with  vanishing  points  on 
different  horizons,  prove  the  Van  Eycks  to  have  been  unacquainted  with 
the  science  of  linear  perspective.  Two  distinct  groups  are  in  adoration 
on  each  side  of  the  fountain.  That  on  the  right  comprises  the  twelve 
apostles,  in  light  greyish  violet  cloaks  kneeling  bare-footed  on  the  sward, 
with  long  hair  and  beards,  expressing  in  their  noble  faces  the  intensity 
of  their  faith.  On  their  right  stands  a  gorgeous  array  of  three  popes, 
two  cardinal  monks,  seven  bishops,  and  a  miscellaneous  crowd  of  church 
and  laymen.  The  group  on  the  left  of  the  fountain  is  composed  of  kings 
and  princes  in  various  costumes,  the  foremost  of  them  kneeling,  the  rest 
standing,  none  finer  than  that  of  a  dark  bearded  man  in  a  red  cloth  cap 
stepping  forward  in  full  front  towards  the  spectator,  dressed  in  a  dark 
blue  mantle,  and  holding  a  sprig  of  myrtle.  The  whole  of  the  standing 
figures  command  prolonged  attention  from  the  variety  of  the  attitudes 
and  expressions,  the  stern  resolution  of  some,  the  eager  glances  of  others, 
the  pious  resignation  and  contemplative  serenity  of  the  remainder.  The 
faithful  who  have  thus  reached  the  scene  of  the  sacrifice  are  surrounded 
by  a  perfect  wilderness  of  flowering  shrubs ,  lilies ,  and  other  beautiful 
plants,  and  remain  in  quiet  contemplation  of  the  Lamb." 

'Numerous  worshippers  besides  are  represented  on  the  wings  of  the 
triptych  ,  moving  towards  the  place  of  worship.  On  the  left  is  a  band 
of  crusaders,  the  foremost  of  whom,  on  a  dapple  grey  charger,  is  clad  in 
armour  with  an  undercoat  of  green  slashed  stufl,  a  crown  of  laurel  on 
his  brow,  and  a  lance  in  his  hand.  On  his  left  two  knights  are  riding, 
also  in  complete  armour,  one  on  a  white,  the  other  on  a  brown  charger, 
carrying  lances  with  streamers.  Next  to  the  third  figure,  a  nobleman  in 
a  fur  cap  bestrides  an  ass,  whose  ears  appear  above  the  press;  on  his 
left  a  crowned  monarch  on  a  black  horse;  behind  them  a  crowd  of  kings 
and  princes.  In  rear  of  them,  and  in  the  last  panel  to  the  left,  Hubert 
Van  Eyck  with  long  brown  hair,  in  a  dark  cap,  the  fur  peak  of  which 
is  turned  up,  ambles  forward  on  a  spirited  white  pony.  He  is  dressed 
in  blue  velvet  lined  with  grey  fur;  his  saddle  has  long  green  housings. 
In  the  same  line  with  him  two  riders  are  mounted  on  sorrel  nags,  and 
next  them  again  a  man  in  a  black  turban  and  dark  brown  dress  trimmed 
with  fur,  whom  historians  agree  in  calling  John  Van  Eyck.  The  face  is 
turned  towards  Hubert,  and  therefore  away  from  the  direction  taken  by 
the  cavalcade;  further  in  rear  are  several  horsemen.  The  two  groups 
proceed  along  a  sandy  path,  which  yields  under  the  horses'  hoofs,  and 
seems  to  have  been  formed  by  the  detritus  of  a  block  of  stony  ground 
rising  perpendicularly  behind,  on  each  side  of  which  the  view  extends 
to  a  rich  landscape,  with  towns  and  churches  in  the  distance  on  one 
hand,  and  a  beautiful  vista  of  blue  and  snow  mountains  on  the  other. 
"White  fleecy  clouds  float  in  the  sky.  There  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  whole 
Flemish  school  a  picture  in  which  human  figures  are  grouped,  designed, 
or  painted  with  so  much  perfection  as  in  this  of  the  mystic  Lamb.  Kor 
is  it  possible  to  find  a  more  complete  or  better  distributed  composition, 
more  natural  attitudes,  or  more  dignified  expression.  Kowhere  in  the 
pictures  of  the  early  part  of  the  loth  century  can  such  airy  landscape 
be  met.  Nor  is  the  talent  of  the  master  confined  to  the  appropriate 
representation  of  the  human  form,  his  skill  extends  alike  to  the  brute 
creation.  The  horses,  whose  caparisons  are  of  the  most  precious  kind, 
are  admirably  drawn  and  in   excellent  movement.    One  charger  stretches 


42    Route?.  GHENT.  Cathedral. 

his  neck  to  lessen  the  pressure  of  the  bit^  another  champs  the  curb 
with  Flemish  phlegma;  a  third  throws  his  head  down  between  his  fore 
legsi  the  pony  ridden  by  Hubert  Van  Eyck  betrays  a  natural  fire,  and 
frets  under  the  restraint  put  upon  it.' 

'On  the  right  side  of  the  aitarpiece  we  see  a  noble  band  of  ascetics 
with  tangled  hair  and  beards  and  deep  complexions,  dressed  in  frock 
and  cowl ,  with  staves  and  rosaries  ,  moving  round  the  base  of  a  rocky 
bank,  the  summit  of  which  is  wooded  and  interspersed  with  palms  and 
orange  trees.  Two  female  saints,  one  of  them  the  Magdalene,  bring  up 
the  rear  of  the  hermit  band,  which  moves  out  of  a  grove  of  orange  trees 
with  glossy  leaves  and  yellow  fruit.  In  the  next  panel  to  the  right,  and 
in  a  similar  landscape,  St.  Christopher,  pole  in  hand,  in  a  long  red  cloak 
of  inelegant  folds,  overtops  the  rest  of  his  companions  —  pilgrims  with 
grim  and  solemn  faces.  Here  a  palm  and  a  cypress  are  painted  with 
surprising  fidelity.'' 

'The  aitarpiece,  when  closed,  has  not  the  all-absorbing  interest  of 
its  principal  scenes  when  open.  It  is  subdivided  first  into  two  parts,  in 
the  upper  portion  of  which  is  the  Annunciation,  in  the  lower  the  portraits 
of  Jodocus  Vydts  and  his  wife,  and  imitated  statues  of  St.  John  the 
Baptist  and  St.  John  the  Evangelist.  In  the  semicircular  projection  of 
the  upper  central  panel  are  the  Sibyls,  whilst  half  figures  of  Zachariah 
and  Micah  are  placed  in  the  semicircles  above  the  annunciate  angel  and 
Virgin.  W^ith  the  exception  of  Jodocus  and  his  wife  and  the  Annun- 
ciation, the  whole  of  this  outer  part  of  the  panels  may  have  been  executed 
under  supervision  by  the  pupils  of  the  Van  Eycks."  —  Crowe  dc  Cavalcaselle. 
The  Early  Flemish  Painters.  2nd  Ed.  1872. 

This  work,  the  most  extensive  and  imposing  of  the  Flemish 
School,  has  undergone  yarious  vicissitudes.  Philip  II.  endeavoured 
to  obtain  possession  of  it,  but  at  length  was  obliged  to  be  satisfied 
with  a  copy  executed  for  him  by  Coxie.  In  1566  it  was  with 
difficulty  rescued  from  Puritanical  outrage,  and  in  1641  saved  from 
danger  of  burning.  An  expression  of  disapproval  by  the  Emp. 
Joseph  II.,  in  1784,  regarding  the  nude  figures  of  Adam  and  Eve 
induced  the  churchwardens  to  keep  the  picture  under  lock  and  key. 
In  1794  it  was  taken  to  Paris,  and  when  it  was  restored  in  1815 
the  central  pictures  only  were  replaced  in  their  original  positions, 
while  the  wings  were  ignorantly,  or  from  avaricious  motives,  sold 
to  a  dealer,  from  whom  they  were  purchased  by  the  museum  of  Berlin 
for  410,000  fr.  The  two  wings  with  Adam  and  Eve  were  kept  con- 
cealed at  Ghent,  as  being  unsuitable  for  a  church,  down  to  1861, 
when  they  were  removed  to  the  museum  at  Brussels.  The  missing 
wings  are  replaced  by  copies  with  variations  by  Coxie. 

The  work  was  begun  by  Hubert  van  Eyck  for  Jodocus  Vyts, 
an  important  patrician  of  Ghent ,  and  his  wife  Isabella  Burluut, 
about^^the  year  1420,  and^ finished  by  John  in  ;  1432.  The  share 
which  each  of  the  brothers  took  in  this  work  cannot  be  precisely 
ascertained.  The  central  piece,  and  the  figures  of  God  the  Father, 
Mary,  John,  Adam,  and  Eve,  are  usually  attributed  to  Hubert,  and 
the  rest  of  the  work  to  his  brother. 

7th  Chapel :  Honthorst,  Pieta ;  at  the  side,  De  Grayer,  Christ 
on  the  Cross.  —  8th :  Monuments  of  Bishops  Ph.  E.  and  A.  van 
der  Nooty  of  the  18th  cent.,  with  a  Scourging  of  Christ  and  a  Vir- 
gin, by  Helderenherg  and  Verschajfelt.  —  9th.  The  aitarpiece,  re- 


Belfry.  GHENT.  7.  Route.     43 

presenting  the  so-called  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine  with  the  Infant 
Christ,  and  the  Virgin  with  the  holy  women,  is  by  Boose,  surnamed 
Liemaeckere.  —  10th :  *Rubens,  St.  Bavon  renounces  his  military 
career  in  order  to  assume  the  cowl.  The  figure  of  the  saint  is  said 
to  represent  the  master  himself  in  the  upper  part  of  the  picture, 
where  he  is  received  on  the  steps  of  the  church  by  a  priest,  after 
having  distributed  all  his  property  among  the  poor.  To  the  left  are 
two  women,  said  to  be  portraits  of  the  two  wives  of  Rubens,  both  in 
the  costume  of  that  period ;  one  of  them  appears  to  be  disengaging 
a  chain  from  her  neck,  as  if  she  would  follow  the  example  of  the 
saint.  At  the  altar:  0.  Vaenms,  Raising  of  Lazarus,  adjoining  which 
is  the  monument  of  Bishop  Damant  (d.  1609).  —  We  now  descend 
the  steps  to  visit  the  rest  of  the  chapels,  which,  however,  contain 
little  of  special  merit  except  M.  Coxie's  Seven  "Works  of  Mercy  (in 
the  15th  and  last). 

The  Sacristy  contains  the  Treasury,  with  the  silver  reliquary 
of  St.  Macarius  (Chasse  de  St.  Macaire),  a  Renaissance  work  of 
1616. 

Of  the  Crypt  beneath  the  choir  the  W.  parts  only,  resting  on 
low  pillars,  belong  to  the  original  structure,  which  was  consecrated 
in  941.  The  E.  part,  with  its  numerous  chapels,  is  Gothic. 
Uubert  van  Eyck  and  his  sister  Margaret  are  buried  here. 

The  Tower  (446  steps)  affords  a  much  finer  *View  than  the 
Belfry  (fee  2fr.  for  1-4  persons;  apply  to  the  verger  in  the  sacristy). 

The  modern  Episcopal  Palace  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  church.  Ad- 
jacent is  the  building  containing  the  rich  Archives  of  E.Flanders. 

The  Belfry  {Belfrood,  or  Beffroi;  PL  C,  4),  a  lofty  square  tower 
which  has  attained  two-thirds  only  of  the  projected  height,  rises  near 
the  cathedral,  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  of  which  it  commands 
a  fine  panorama.  In  1839-53  it  was  provided  with  an  iron  spire. 
According  to  a  note  written  upon  the  original  design,  which  is  pre- 
served in  the  city  archives,  the  construction  was  begun  in  1183 ;  in 
1339  the  works  were  suspended.  Etymologists  differ  as  to  the 
origin  of  the  word  'belfrood'  or  belfry,  but  the  most  probable 
derivation  is  from  bell  (Dutch  bellen ,  to  sound,  to  ring)  and  frood 
or  fried  (jurisdiction).  One  of  the  first  privileges  usually  obtained 
by  the  burghers  from  their  feudal  lords  was  permission  to  erect 
one  of  these  watch  or  bell-towers ,  from  which  peals  were  rung  on 
all  important  occasions  to  summon  the  people  to  council  or  to  arms. 

The  concierge,  who  accompanies  visitors  to  the  top  of  the  tower 
(1  pers.  1  fr.,  more  for  a  party),  lives  in  the  tower  itself,  entrance 
in  the  St.  Janstraat.  In  the  interior  are  two  square  rooms,  one 
above  the  other,  with  fine  Gothic  windows.  The  third  gallery,  at  a 
height  of  270  ft.,  is  reached  by  386  steps;  the  total  height  to  the 
point  of  the  spire  is  375  ft.  The  staircase  is  dark  and  rather  steep. 
The  spire  is  surmounted  by  a  vane,  consisting  of  a  gilded  dragon, 
10  ft.  in  length,  made  at  Ghent  in  1380. 


44     Route  7.  GHENT.  Hotel  de  Ville. 

The  View  embraces  a  great  portion  of  Flanders,  as  well  as  an  ad- 
mirable survey  of  the  city.  When  the  Duke  of  Alva  proposed  tu  Charles 
V.  that  he  should  destroy  the  city  which  had  occasioned  him  so  much 
annoyance,  the  monarch  is  said  to  have  taken  him  to  the  top  of  the 
belfry,  and  there  to  have  replied:  ^Combien  faudraU-il  de  peaux  d'Espagne 
pour /aire  ?/n  Gant  de  cette  grandeur  V  —  thus  rejecting  the  cruel  sug- 
gestion of  his  minister. 

The  mechanism  of  the  Chimes  may  be  examined  at  the  top  of  the 
tower.  They  are  played  by  means  of  a  cylinder,  like  that  in  a  barrel- 
organ,  the  spikes  on  which  set  the  tongues  and  hammers  of  the  bells  in 
motion.  They  may  also  be  played  by  a  musician  who  uses  an  apparatus 
resembling  the  keyboard  and  pedal  of  an  organ.  The  tower  contains 
44  bells.  A  hole  in  one  of  them  was  made  by  a  cannon-ball  fired  at  the 
belfry  by  the  Austrians  from  the  old  citadel  in  1TS9,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  citizens  from  ringing  the  alarm.  The  ball  did  not  miss  its  aim,  but 
failed  to  effect  its  purpose,  for  the  tone  of  the  bell  continued  unimpaired. 
One  of  the  oldest  and  heaviest  bells,  which  was  recast  in  1059,  bears  the 
inscription:  ^Mijn  naem  is  Roelant;  als  ick  kleppe  dan  isH  brand;  als  ick 
liipde,  tsV  victorie  in  Vlaenderland''  (My  name  is  Roland ;  when  I  am 
rung  hastily,  then  there  is  a  fire;  when  I  resound  in  peals,  there  is  a 
victory  in  Flanders). 

The  lower  part  of  the  Belfry,  used  as  a  town-prison,  is  called  'J/«m- 
melokker\  a  Flemish  word  applied  to  the  colossal  relief  over  the  entrance 
from  the  Jlarche  avi  Beurre  (Botermarkt),  representing  a  woman  giving 
sustenance  from  her  own  breast  ti  an  old  man  in  chains  at  her  feet,  and 
e.xpressive  of  the  filial  act  she  is  performing  CCItariti  Romaine).  The 
portal  and  ligures  belong  to  the  18th  century. 

An  interesting  Gothic  building  in  the  Rue  St.  Jean ,  adjoining 
the  Belfry,  erected  in  1325  (now  being  restored),  was  formerly  the 
Cloth  Hall.  The  interior,  with  the  collections  of  the  Brotherhood 
of  St.  Michael  (Confre'rie  desf]scrimeurs  dite  deSt.  Michel),  founded 
in  the  17th  cent.,  is  shown  by  the  concierge  of  the  Belfry. 

In  the  Marchc  an  Beurre  (Botermarktj  is  situated  the  *H6tel  de 
Ville  (PI.  C,  4),  which  consists  of  two  entirely  different  parts.  The 
picturesque  facade  towards  the  Rue  Ilaut-Port,  constructed  in 
1518-33,  in  the  florid-Gothic  (Flamboyant)  style,  from  designs  by 
Bominicus  de  Waghemakere  and  Rombout  Keldermans  (p.  134),  was 
restored  in  1829,  and  again  quite  recently;  it  is  perhaps  the  most 
beautiful  piece  of  Gothic  architecture  in  Belgium.  The  E.  facade, 
towards  the  market-place,  with  its  three  tiers  of  columns,  was  con- 
structed in  1595-1628,  in  the  Renaissance  style. 

The  "In'teriok  contains  several  fine  Gothic  rooms  and  an  interesting 
Gothic  staircase.  On  the  first  floor  of  the  wing  dating  from  the  end  of 
the  15th  cent.,  is  the  Council  Hall  or  Salle  de  VArsenal,  with  timber  roof, 
lofty  Gothic  windows,  and  two  artistic  cliimney-picces.  The  artistically 
executed  coats-of-arms  of  magistrates  on  the  bindings  of  the  account  books 
of  the  town  (from  the  end  of  the  15th  cent,  downwards),  here  displayed, 
are  of  considerable  heraldic  importance.  The  'Pacilication  of  Ghent',  a 
treaty  drawn  up  by  a  congress  of  the  Confederates  who  assembled  here 
in  157G  with  a  view  to  expel  the  Spaniards  from  the  Netherlands,  was 
sijincd  in  this  hall,  where  a  commemorative  tablet  was  erected  in  1876. 
The  lofty  chapel  now  serves  as  the  Salle  des  Mariages^  or  office  for  civil 
marriages.  The  Archives  are  very  important,  containing  documents  reach- 
ing back  to  the  13th  century. 

In  the  Poeldemarkt  (poultry  market'),  behind  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  is 
the  office  of  the  Charitable  Society ,  containing  an  interesting  room  with 
wood-carvings  and  paintings  of  the  17th  cent.  (Charles  V.,  Albert  and  Isa- 
bella, etc.).     At   the   chimney-piece,    which   is    of  carved  wood,  are  two 


Marche  du  Vendredi.  GHENT.  7.  Route.     45 

statuettes  of  orphans  in  the  costume  of  the  period  (16S0).  Small  fee  to  the 
keeper  (ring). 

Opposite  the  N.  facade  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  is  the  Rue  des 
Grainiers ,  ending  in  the  Rue  Basse,  which  we  cross  ohliquely 
to  the  Rue  du  Serpent,  leading  to  the  *March.e  du  Vendredi 
iVrydagmarkt ;  Fl.  C,  D,  3,  4),  an  extensive  square,  still  surrounded 
by  antiquated  buildings.  The  most  important  events  in  the  history 
of  Ghent  have  taken  place  here.  Homage  was  here  done  to 
the  Counts  of  Flanders  on  their  accession ,  in  a  style  of  magni- 
ficence unknown  at  the  present  day,  after  they  had  sworn ,  '  alle 
de  bestaende  wetten  ,  vorregten ,  vryheden  en  gewoonten  vanH 
graafschap  en  van  de  stad  Gent  te  onderhouden  en  te  doen  onder- 
houden'  (to  maintain  and  cause  to  be  maintained  all  the  existing  laws, 
privileges,  freedoms,  and  customs  of  the  county  and  city  of  Ghent; 
comp.  p.  51).  Here  the  members  of  the  mediaeval  guilds,  ^ces  tetes 
dures  de  Flandre' ,  as  Charles  V.  termed  his  countrymen,  frequently 
assembled  to  avenge  some  real  or  imaginary  infringement  of  their 
rights,  and  here  the  standard  of  revolt  was  invariably  erected.  One 
of  the  most  disastrous  civic  broils  took  place  here  in  1341,  when 
Gerard  Denys  at  the  head  of  his  party,  which  consisted  chiefly  of 
weavers,  attacked  his  opponents  the  fullers  with  such  fury  that 
even  the  elevation  of  the  host  failed  to  separate  the  combatants,  of 
whom  upwards  of  500  were  slain.  Jacques  van  Artevelde,  the 
famous  'Brewer  of  Ghent'  (see  p.  36),  then  in  power,  was  after- 
wards assassinated  by  Denys.  This  fatal  day  was  subsequently 
entered  in  the  civic  calendar  as  '•  Kwade  Maandag^  (Wicked 
Monday).  Under  the  rule  of  the  Duke  of  Alva  his  auto-da-fe"s 
were  enacted  in  the  Marche  du  Vendredi,  and  many  thousand 
Ghenters  were  then  compelled  to  emigrate,  thus  leaving  the  city  half 
untenanted.  A  bronze  statue  of  Charles  V.  stood  here  down  to  1794, 
when  it  was  destroyed  by  the  French  sansculottes.  It  is  now  replaced 
by  a  bronze  Statue  of  Jacques  van  Artevelde  (PI.  24;  D,  3),  over 
life-size,  executed  in  bronze  byDevigne-Quyo,  and  erected  in  1863. 
The  powerful  demagogue  is  represented  fully  accoutred,  in  the  act 
of  delivering  the  celebrated  speech  in  which  he  succeeded  in  per- 
suading the  citizens  of  Ghent  and  the  inhabitants  of  Flanders  to 
enter  into  an  alliance  with  England  against  the  will  of  the  Count  of 
Artois.  The  three  reliefs  on  the  pedestal  have  reference  to  the 
three  most  important  treaties  concluded  by  Artevelde  in  behalf  of 
Flanders.  The  ancient  buildings  which  formerly  lent  an  interest  to 
this  square  are  now  represented  by  a  single  house,  known  as  the 
Toreken  or  (erroneously)  the  Collacie-Z older  (municipal  council 
room),  dating  from  the  13th  or  14th  century.  An  inelegant  modern 
roof  crowns  the  tower  of  this  edifice,  which  is  now  occupied  by  small 
shopkeepers.  —  A  view  of  the  principal  towers  of  the  city  is  obtained 
from  the  N.  side  of  the  market.  The  Pont  du  Laitage  (p.  50)  lies  to 
the  N.W.  of  this  point. 

At  the  corner  of  a  street  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Marche'  du  Ven- 


46     Route  7.  GHENT.  St.  Jacques. 

dredi  is  placed  a  huge  cannon,  called  the  ^  Dulle  Oriete^  (Mad 
Meg;  14th  cent.),  19  ft.  long  and  11  ft.  in  circumference  (resem- 
bling 'Mons  Meg',  a  similar  cannon  in  Edinburgh  Castle).  Above 
the  touch-hole  is  the  Burgundian  Cross  of  St.  Andrew,  with  the  arms 
of  Philippe  le  Bon  (1419-1467). 

At  the  back  of  the  E.  side  of  the  Marche  du  Yendredi  rises  the 
Church  of  St.  Jacques  (PL  8;  D,  4),  originally  founded  about  the 
year  1100.  The  present  edifice  dates  from  the  end  of  the  loth  or 
beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  but  the  W.  towers,  and  the  lower  part 
of  the  central  tower  are  Romanesque. 

The  Interior  contains  several  pictnres  by  Jan  van  Cleef.  In  the  left 
aisle  are  two  paintings  by  O.  de  Crayer :  Members  of  the  Order  of  the 
Trinity  ransoming  Christian  captives,  and  the  Virgin.  In  the  right  aisle 
is  the  Departure  of  the  youthful  Tobias,  by  Jan  Maes-Canini.  The  two 
pictures  of  Apostles  in  the  choir  are  by  Van  Huff  el.  Ifear  the  pulpit  is  a 
statue  of  the  Apostle  .Tames  by  Van  Poticke.  The  handsome  marble  laberna- 
cle  dates  from  the  16th  century.  Here  also  is  the  tomb  of  Jean  Palfyn 
(d.  1730)  of  Cuurtrai,  inventur  of  the  forceps. 

The  Botanic  Garden  (^Plantentuin^  PI.  D,  3),  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  is  the  finest  in  Belgium.  (The  entrance  is  at  No.  21  Rue 
St.  Georges,  a  street  traversed  by  the  tramway  running  to  the  Ant- 
werp Gate.)  It  \va3  founded  in  1797,  and  is  commonly  known  as  the 
Baudeloohof.  The  hot-houses  (Victoria  Regia,  etc.)  are  extensive.  — 
The  suppressed  Baudeloo  Convent  contains  the  Athenaeum  (Gram- 
mar School),  the  Town  and  University  Library  (upwards  of  200,000 
vols. ;  2500  MSB.,  some  of  them  very  rare),  and  a  collection  of  about 
7000  drawings,  14,000  engravings,  plans,  and  water-colour  sketches 
of  buildings  and  views  in  Ghent,  from  the  10th  cent,  till  the  present 
time,  coins,  and  about  25,000  pamphlets  of  the  16-17tli  centuries. 
The  reading  room  is  open  to  the  public  daily  (except  Sun.  and  during 
the  vacations),  9-7. 

Farther  to  the  E.  lies  the  ruined  *Abbey  of  St.  Bavon  (PI.  14; 
E,  4;  entrance  on  the  S.,  in  the  Rue  de  VAbbaye;  V2fr.).  It  may 
be  reached  by  taking  the  tramway  from  the  church  of  St.  Jacques 
to  the  Rue  d'Anvers,  and  thence  to  the  S.  by  the  Rue  du  Chateau 
and  Rue  St.  Macaire.  The  abbey,  of  very  early  foundation,  was 
one  of  those  bestowed  upon  Eginhard,  the  biographer  of  Charlemagne, 
and  after  its  destruction  by  the  Northmen,  was  restored  with  great 
splendour  (10th  cent.).  Charles  V. ,  though  noted  as  a  zealous 
persecutor  of  heretics  and  iconoclasts ,  caused  the  beautiful  old 
Romanesque  cathedral  and  most  of  the  conventual  buildings  to  be 
razed  in  1540,  in  order  to  build  a  citadel  (p.  38).  A  fragment  of 
a  15th  cent,  cloister  is  still  extant,  with  the  Baptistery  of  St.  Ma- 
carius,  consecrated  in  1179,  on  the  E.  side.  Opposite,  a  magni- 
ficent Transition  gateway  (beside  which  are  two  window -arches 
of  the  same  period)  admits  us  to  the  Crypt  of  Our  Lady.  In  the 
pavement  are  21  ancient  tombs  (8th  cent.  ?),  hewn  in  sandstone  and 
covered  with  reddish  mortar,  not  unlike  mummy-coffins  in  shape. 
To  the  left  is  the  Cellar,  supported  by  three  thick  round  columns. 


Grand  Biguinage.  GHENT.  7.  Route.     47 

The  old  refectory,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  cloister,  is  kiiOAvn  as  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Macarius,  because  it  was  used  for  religious  worship 
until  the  erection  of  the  church  of  that  name  (PI,  E,  4).  The  S. 
windows  are  Romanesque,  but  the  N.  windows  were  altered  in  the 
15th  century.  Several  interesting  frescoes  were  discovered  here  in 
1889.  In  the  vaults  under  the  refectory  are  numerous  old  grave- 
stones and  other  sculptures,  a  mosaic-pavement  of  the  13th  cent. ,  etc. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  Rue  d'Anvers  fp.  46)  and  the  Chausse'e 
d'Anvers  ftramway  to  the  Station  du  Pays  deWaes,  comp.  p.  34  and 
PI.  E,  3,  4^,  and  then  turning  to  the  right  by  the  narrow  Oostacker 
Straat,  we  reach  the  — 

Grand  Beguinage  [Begynhof;  PI.  E,  3,  4),  a  large  nunnery, 
the  foundation  of  which  dates  from  the  13th  cent.  (1234-35). 

?  The  name  is  derived  by  some  authorities  from  St.  Begga,  the  mother 
of  Pepin  of  Heristal.  and  by  some  from  Le  Bigue.,  a  priest  of  Liege  (end 
of  the  12th  cent.)  ;  while  others  connect  it  with  heggen.,  to  beg:.  The  ob- 
jects promoted  by  the  Biguinages  are  a  religious  life,  works  of  cha- 
rity (tending  the  sick),  and  the  honourable  self-maintenance  of  women 
of  all  ranks.  These  institutions  have  passed  almost  scathless  through  the 
storms  of  centuries.  .To.seph  II.  spared  them,  when  he  dissolved  the  other 
religious  houses,  and  they  also  remained  unmolested  during  the  French 
Revolution,  their  aim  having  steadfastly  been  the  'support  of  the  needy 
and  the  care  of  the  sick.'  There  are  at  present  about  twenty  Be'guinages 
in  Belgium ,  with  about  1.300  members,  nearly  1000  of  whom  are  in 
Ghent.  With  the  exception  of  those  at  Amsterdam  and  Breda,  these  nun- 
neries are  now  confined  to  Belgium,  though  at  one  time  they  were  com- 
mon throughout  the  districts  of  the  lower  Rhine. 

The  members  of  the  Begninages  are  unmarried  women  or  widows  of 
unblemished  character,  and  pay  a  yearly  board  of  at  least  110  fr.,  besides 
an  entrance-fee  of  about  150  fr.  for  the  maintenance  of  the  dwellings  and 
the  church.  Two  years  of  novitiate  must  be  undergone  before  they  can 
be  elected  as  sisters.  They  are  subject  to  certain  conventual  regulations, 
and  are  bound  to  obey  their  superior,  the  Gvoot  Juffrouw  or  Grande  Dame 
(whom  they  elect  themselves),  but  are  unfettered  by  any  irrevocalile  vow. 
It  is,  however,  a  boast  of  the  order  that  very  few  of  their  number  avail 
themselves  of  their  liberty  to  return  to  the  world.  (When  a  member 
leaves  the  order,  her  entry-money  is  returned  to  her.)  The  younger  Sisters 
live  together  in  the  convents,  where  they  spend  such  time  as  they  are 
not  in  church,  in  working  in  common  (i;ice-making,  etc.).  After  having 
been  members  for  three  years,  however,  they  have  the  option  of  retiring 
to  one  of  the  separate  dwellings,  wLich  contain  rooms  for  two  to  four 
occupants.  The  doors  of  these  houses  are  inscribed  with  numbers  and 
the  names  of  tutelary  saints.  In  many  cases  the  Be'guines  have  the  society 
of  other  women  who  are  not  members  of  the  order,  such  as  an  a^ed 
mother,  or  other  friend  or  relative,  whose  board  forms  a  small  addition 
to  their  funds. 

The  Sisters  must  attend  divine  worship  twice  or  thrice  a  day,  the 
first  service  being  at  5  a.m.;  and  the  last  at  Vespers,  the  hour  of  which 
varies  according  as  it  becomes  too  dark  for  the  fine  work  of  the  nuns. 
The  latter  service,  known  as  'lof  or  'salut  des  Beguines'  presents  a  very 
picturesque  and  impressive  scene,  when  the  black  robes  (failles)  and  white 
linen  head-gear  of  the  Sisters  are  dimly  illuminated  by  the  evening  light 
and  a  few  lamps.  Kovices  have  a  diflferent  dress,  while  those  who  have 
been  recently  admitted  to  the  order  wear  a  wreath  round  their  heads. 

The  *Grand  Beguikage,  the  removal  of  which  from  its  former 
position  near  the  Porte  de  Bruges  was  necessitated  by  the  con- 
struction of  some  new  streets,  was  transferred  in  1875  to  the  site 


4S     Route:.  GHENT.  St.  MichaeVs  CJnircJi. 

secured  for  it  on  tlie  N.E.  of  the  town  through  the  influence  of 
the  Due  d'Arenberg.  The  Beguinage  forms  a  little  town  of  itself, 
enclosed  by  walls  and  moats,  with  streets,  squares,  gates,  18  con- 
vents, and  a  church,  the  last  forming  the  central  point  of  the 
whole.  The  houses,  though  nearly  all  two-storied  Gothic  brick 
buildings,  present  great  variety  of  appearance  and  form  a  very 
picturesque  ensemble.  The  Beguinage  was  planned  by  the  architect 
Verhaegen. 

This  Beguinage  contains  about  TOO  members,  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  whose  lace  (Kanten)  may  be  obtained  from  the  Groot 
Juffrouio ,  opposite  the  entrance  of  the  church,  at  much  more 
reasonable  prices  than  in  the  town. 


In  the  MaPvChb  aux  Grains  {Koommarkt;  PI.  C,  4)  rises  the 
Church  of  St.  Nicholas  (PI.  10),  the  oldest  in  Ghent.  It  was  founded 
early  in  the  10th  cent.,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  present  building, 
which  in  the  main  is  in  the  early-Gothic  style,  probably  dates  from 
the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  The  main  tower  contains  a  fine 
hall  in  the  Transition  style.  The  ten  turrets  on  the  lower  part  of 
this  tower  have  given  rise  to  the  'bon  mot' :  '  Veglise  a  onze  tours 
et  dix  sans  (same  pronunciation  as  cents')  cloches\ 

The  Interiou  has  been  modernised.  Most  of  its  venerable  treasures 
(if  art  disappeared  from  the  church  during  the  religious  wars  and  the 
wild  excesses  of  the  iconoclasts,  but  have  been  partly  replaced  by 
modern  works.  High-altarpiece  by  iV.  Roose  (Lie?naecke)'e),  Call  of  St.  Is'i- 
cholas  to  the  episcopal  office.  2nd  Chapel,  to  the  right:  Maes-Canini., 
Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  John.  3rd  Chapel,  on  the  left :  Steyaert., 
Preaching  of  St.  Anthony.  An  inscription  under  a  small  picture  on  an 
opposite  pillar  in  the  nave  records  that  Olirer  Mivjau  and  his  wife  are 
buried  here,  '■eiide  hadden  tezamen  een  en  devtich  kinderen"  (i.e.,  they  had 
together  one-and-lhirty  children).  When  Emp.  Charles  V.  entered  Ghent, 
the  father  with  twenty-one  sons  who  had  joined  the  procession  attracted 
his  attention  (152G).  Shortly  afterwards,  however,  the  whole  family  was 
carried  oft"  by  the  plague.  —  The  other  pictures  include  specimens  by  /. 
van  Cleef  and  Van  den  IJenvel.  The  stained  glass  in  the  windows  of  the 
choir  is  by  Capvonnier  and  Laroche.,  1851. 

On  the  Graslei,  or  Quai  aux  Herbes  (PI.  C,  4),  behind  the  W. 
side  of  the  Corn  Market,  there  are  several  interesting  old  buildings. 
The  handsome  *Skipper  House(^o.  15),  the  finest  Gothic  guild-house 
in  Belgium,  was  erected  in  1531  by  the  Guild  of  the  Skippers.  The 
Staple  JIou?e  is  in  the  Komanesque  style. 

St.  Michael's  Church  (PI.  9 ;  C,  4),  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice 
begun  in  1445  (nave  completed  1480,  tower  unfinished),  was  em- 
ployed in  1794  as  a  'Temple  of  Reason',  and  lost  most  of  its  trea- 
sures of  art  at  that  period.  The  pictures  which  it  now  contains  are, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  by  Vaenius,  Van  Dyck,  De  Grayer,  etc., 
productions  of  the  first  half  of  the  present  century.  The  modern 
stained-glass  windows  are  by  Capronnier.  (Sacristan  1  fr.,  more 
for  a  party.) 

The  *Intekiok,  where  the  red  brick  vaulting  forms  an  eflfecfive  con- 
trast with  the  white  walls  and  pillar.?,  is  undergoing  a  complete  restoration. 


Oudeburg.  GHENT.  7.  Route.    49 

—  N.  Aisle,  first  entered  in  approaching  from  the  bridge:  4th  Chapel: 
Vaenius,  Raising  of  Lazarus.  2nd:  De  Cmyer,  St.  Bernhard,  St.  Joseph, 
and  St.  George  worshipping  the  Trinity.  1st:  Van  Balen,  Assumption. — 
The  -Pulpit  by  J.  Franck,  1S46,  a  masterpiece  of  taste  and  execution,  rests 
on  the  trunk  of  a  fig-tree  in  marble;  Christ  healing  a  blind  man  forms 
the  principal  group  below;  the  staircase  railings  are  of  mahogany.  — 
South  Aisle.  Brd  Chapel:  Model  of  the  tower  as  originally  designed.  '  Van 
Bockhovst^  Conversion  of  St.  Hubert. 

S.  Transept.     Frangois,  Ascension;  Lens,  Annunciation. 

N.  Tkanseft  :  *  Van  Dyck's  celebrated  Crucifixion,  painted  in  1644  for 
the  Fraternity  of  the  Holy  Cross  in  Ghent  in  six  weeks,  for  800  fl.  A  man 
extends  the  sponge  to  the  Saviour  with  a  reed;  John  and  the  Maries 
below,  weeping  angels  above.  Paelinck^  Finding  of  the  Cross  by  the 
Empress  Helena. 

Choir.  To  the  right,  2nd  Chapel:  Van  der  Plaetsen,  The  Pope  ex- 
horting Louis  XI.  to  submit  to  the  will  of  God,  painted  in  1838;  Spagno- 
letto,  St.  Francis.  3rd:  'i)e  Grayer,  Assumption  of  St.  Catharine,  one  of 
the  master's  best  works.  4th:  Ph.  de  Champaigne,  Pope  Gregory  teaching 
choristers  to  sing.  0th:  Van  Afander,  St.  Sebastian  and  S.  Carlo  Borromeo. 
6th,  at  the  back  of  the  high -altar:  Van  Bockhorst,  Allegory,  Moses  and 
Aaron  typical  of  the  Old  Testament;  St.  John,  St.  Sebastian,  and  the 
Pope  typical  of  the  New.  7th:  Maes-Canini,  Holy  Family.  9th:  Seghers, 
Scourging  of  Christ.  10th:  Th.  v.  Thulden,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Adrian. 
11th :  De  Grayer,  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 

Adjoining  the  Marche  aux  Grains,  on  the  N.,  lies  the  Marche 
Aux  Hbebks  (Groenselmarkt),  on  the  left  of  which  rises  the  exten- 
sive Grande  Boucherie  (G'roof  Vleeschhuis,  PI.  16;  C,  4),  erected 
in  1408-17,  but  of  no  architectural  merit.  An  interesting 
mural  painting  in  oil ,  executed  by  Nabur  Martins  in  1448  (freely 
painted  over),  was  discovered  in  the  old  chapel  of  the  building 
in  1854.  The  iron  rings  and  collars  on  the  exterior  wall  to  the 
right  are  mementoes  of  the  public  executions  and  tortures  which 
formerly  took  place  here.  The  same  association  is  commemorated 
in  the  name  of  a  small  adjacent  cafe,  Cafe  de  la  Potence  or  t'Galgen- 
huis.  —  The  members  of  the  Ghent  Guild  of  Butchers  were  known 
as  'Prinse  Kindereu'  (Prince's  children),  being  the  descendants  of 
Charles  Y.  and  the  pretty  daughter  of  a  butcher,  who  secured  for 
her  son  and  his  descendants  the  sole  right  of  slaughtering  and  selling 
meat  in  the  city.  The  son  of  the  emperor  had  four  children,  the  an- 
cestors of  the  four  families  of  Van  Melle,  Van  Loo,  Minne,  and 
Deynoot,  of  whom  alone  the  guild  consisted  down  to  1794. 

Crossing  the  bridge  to  the  left ,  we  reach  the  Place  Ste.  Pharaildb, 
which  is  surrounded  with  quaint  mediaeval  buildings.  The  Gateway 
in  the  corner  to  the  left,  erected  in  imitation  of  one  on  the  same 
site  by  Arthus  Quellin,  which  was  burned  down  in  1872,  and 
•adorned  with  sculptures  by  De  Kesel  (Neptune,  the  Schelde,  and 
the'Lys).  leads  to  the  Marche  aux  Poissons  (PI.  19;  C,  4).  —  On 
the  N.  side  of  the  Place,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  de  la  Monnaie, 
the  OuiebuTg  (^Gravenkasteel ,  s' Gravensteen,  Chateau  des  Comtes ; 
PI.  2;  C,  3),  a  massive  old  castellated-looking  gateway,  with  loop- 
holes ,  rises  among  a  number  of  modern  houses.  It  is  a  remnant  of 
the  ancient  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders,  where  Edward  III. 
with  his  Queen  Philippa  were  sumptuously  entertained  by  Jacques 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  4 


50     Route  7,  GHENT.  Museum. 

van  Artevelde  in  1339,  and  where  their  son  John  of  Gaunt  (i.  c, 
Gand  or  Ghent)  was  "born  in  1340.  It  was  afterwards  the  seat  of  tho 
council  of  Flanders,  appointed  by  Philippe  le  Bon  of  Burgundy 
ahout  the  middle  of  the  15th  century.  The  palace  was  built  in 
868,  but  the  gateway  next  the  two  octagonal  towers  not  before 
1180.  In  1780,  under  Maria  Theresa,  the  castle  was  sold  and 
converted  into  a  factory,  around  which  numerous  workman's  dwell- 
ings gradually  clustered.  It  is  now  about  to  be  laid  open  and 
restored.  On  entering  by  the  gate  in  the  Rue  de  Monnaie  (see  above) 
we  see  to  the  right  the  remains  of  the  old  keep  or  donjon  (9th  cent.?), 
adjoining  which  is  an  elegant  Romanesque  arcade  of  the  12th  cen- 
tury. Behind  the  donjon  are  the  remains  of  the  chapel  (?),  with 
two  Romanesque  pillars ;  and  here  and  there  traces  of  the  battlc- 
mented  walls  may  still  be  made  out.  A  subterranean  passage, 
21/2  M.  in  length,  leading  to  a  point  outside  the  city,  is  said  to  have 
existed  and  to  have  been  employed  for  admitting  soldiers  to  the 
castle  in  case  of  an  emergency.  —  The  adjacent  Rue  du  Vicux 
Bourg,  at  the  end  of  the  Pont  du  Laitage  (p.  45),  a  bridge  which 
crosses  to  the  March^  du  Vendredi,  contains  two  interesting  houses 
of  the  17th  cent. ,  embellished  with  numerous  terracotta  reliefs 
(one  of  them  called  'den  vliegenden  Hert'). 

The  old  Carmelite  church,  in  the  Rue  Longue  des  Pierres,  is 
now  occupied  by  the  new  municipal  *Musee  d'Archeologie,  with 
interesting  collections  of  industrial  art.  Adm.  free  on  Sun.,  10-1, 
and  on  Thurs.  2-5  (Sept.  16th  to  April  30th,  2-4);  on- other  days 
9-12  and  12.30-6  (in  winter  10-12  and  2-3),  50  c.,  catalogue  75  c. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  and  complete  collections  is  that  of  wrought 
iron  objects,  including  locks,  keys,  door-hinges,  waflle-irons,  caskets  of  the 
15th  cent.,  weights,  measures,  surgical  instruments  of  the  16th  and  17th  cent., 
etc.  Among  the  other  objects  of  interest  arc  the  large  sepulchral  brasses 
of  Guillaume  de  Wenemaer  (d.  1325)  and  his  wife,  with  deeply  engraved 
portraits  ;  Brussels  carpets  with  designs  representing  mythological  scenes 
(18th  cent.) ;  chased  *Badges  of  massive  silver  (15th  cent.),  formerly  borne 
by  the  ambassadors  of  Ghent  ■■,  the  chased  and  silver-gilt  insignia  of  the 
guilds  of  the  town  ;  standards  of  the  16th  cent. ;  carved  doors  and  window- 
frames;  chests  of  the  most  diverse  character;  costumes  of  the  time  of 
Louis  XV.  and  Louis  XVI. ;  and  an  extensive  collection  of  knives  and 
forks  of  the  16th  and  subsequent  centuries ;  executioners'  swords,  instru- 
ments of  torture,  etc.  Among  the  historic;il  paintings  are:  Baptism  of 
Charles  V.  (1500) ;  also,  De  Crciyer,  Francis  I.  surrendering  his  sword 
to  Lannoy  at  the  battle  of  Pavia  in  1525;  Charles  V.  landing  in  Africa; 
Charles  V,  and  his  brother  Ferdinand;  three  pictures  painted  for  the 
triumphal  arch  at  the  entry  of  Ferdinand ;  /.  B.  van  Volxsom  (d.  1732), 
Charles  VI.  receiving  homage  in  the  Mareh^  de  Vendredi  (p.  45)  in  1717. 

In  the  Rue  Ste.  Marguerite  (No.  5),  which  forms  a  continuation 
of  the  Rue  de  la  Monnaie,  is  situated  the  Royal  Academy  of  Art, 
established  in  the  old  Augustine  Monastery,  adjoining  the  incon- 
siderable Awg^wsf  me  Church,  (PI.  4 ;  C,  3),  and  containing  the  Museum, 
with  about  250  pictures.  There  are  no  works  of  pre-eminent  merit, 
but  the  collection  is  worth  a  visit.  Among  the  old  works,  besides 
a  specimen  of  Rubens,  are  several  by  G.  de  Crayer,  who  migrated 


Museum.  GHENT.  7    Route.    51 

from  Brussels  to  Ghent  in  the  latter  part  of  his  life,  and  died  here 
in  1669  at  the  age  of  87.  The  collection  is  arranged  on  the  second 
floor,  and  is  open  to  the  public  gratis  on  Sun.  and  holidays  (10-1) 
and  Thurs.  (9-1  and  2-5) ;  at  other  times  50  c.  (concierge  at  No.  7). 

Room  I.  To  the  left :  *94.  Fr.  Pourbus,  Isaiah  announcing  to  Heze- 
kiali  Ms  recovery,  with  the  miracle  of  the  sun  going  ten  degrees  hack- 
ward;  on  the  wings  a  Crucifixion  and  the  donor,  the  Abbot  del  Rio;  on 
the  outside,  Raising  of  Lazarus,  in  grisaille.  51.  J/,  de  Vos,  Holy  Family. 
Also  several  good  works  by  unknown  masters.  —  To  the  right  — 

Rooii  II.  (large,  and  lighted  from  the  roof).  To  the  left:  47.  Peter 
Neefs  the  Elder ^  Peter  liberated  from  the  prison;  15.  De  Crayer,  St.  John 
in  Patmos;  45.  G.  Maes,  St.  Nicholas  (1689);  *18.  De  Grayer^  Solomon's 
Judgment,  one  of  the  artist's  masterpieces;  1.  Th.  Boeyermans,  Vision  of 
St.  Mary  Magdalene  de'  Pazzi;  75.  Th.  van  Eombouis,  Allegorical  represen- 
tation of  Justice,  formerly  in  the  Hotel  deVille;  2  Th.  Boeyermans,  S. 
Carlo  Borromeo  dispensing  the  Sacrament  to  persons  stricken  with  the 
plague ;  39.  Jan  van  Cleef,  Holy  Family,  with  the  Infant  Saviour  crown- 
ing Joseph  with  a  wreath  of  roses ;  19.  De  Crayer,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Bla- 
sius  (his  last  work,  painted  in  1668  at  the  age  of  86);  'Xo  number,  De 
Crayer,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Laurence,  one  of  the  best  works  of  this  master, 
who  is  excellently  represented  in  Ghent;  38.  Peter  Thys,  St.  Sebastian 
receiving  the  martyr's  palm  from  angels;  13.  De  Crayer.,  Tobias  with  the 
Archangel  Raphael;  56.  W.  Ileda,  Still-life;  17.  De  Crayer,  Resurrection; 
No  number,  Artois ,  Landscape;  10.  Adr.  van  Utrecht,  P'ishmonger;  *9. 
Rubens,  St.  Francis  receiving  the  stigmata,  painted  in  1632  for  the  Fran- 
ciscan Church  at  Ghent,  and  similar  to  the  picture  in  the  Museum  of 
Cologne;  *14.  De  Crayer,  Coronation  of  St.  Rosalia;  11.  Duchatel,  Pro- 
cession in  the  Marche  du  Vendredi ,  at  the  reception  of  Charles  II.  of 
Spain  as  Count  of  Flanders  (1666 ;  in  the  middle  of  the  foreground  is  a 
portrait  of  the  artist,  holding  a  paper);  12.  Verhaghen,  Presentation  in 
the  Temple;  22.  De  Crayer,  The  'Virgin  handing  the  scapulary  to  St.  Simon 
Stock;  *T6.  Th.  van  Romhouts,  The  five  senses;  M.  Coxie,  Last  Judgment ; 
No  number.  Van  Dyck.  Portrait  of  himself,  in  grisaille;  4.  Jordaens,  St.  Am- 
brose ;  No  number,  Eondecoeter,  Pelican  and  other  foreign  birds;  82.  P. 
van  den  Avont,  Holy  Family  in  a  landscape,  surround'ed  by  angels.  — 
In  the  middle  of  the  room:  95.  Fr.  Pourbus,  Large  winged  altarpiece,  with 
22  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ;  on  the  back,  the  Last  Supper.  F^licien 
Bouri,  Boy  lying  in  wait  for  a  lizard  (marble) ;  J.  Joris,  'Mon  Cavalier' ; 
P.  Comein,  Girl  with  a  doll  (marble);  Devigne-Quyo,  Eve  and  the  Serpent 
(plaster). 

On  the  other  side  of  the  entrance-hall  are  two  rooms  with  modern 
pictures.  Roo3xIII.  172.  H.  Pille,  Festival  in  Brittany ;  X.  de  Cock,  Cows; 
Josselin  de  Jong,  The  petition;  M.  Miiller  (Diisseldorf),  Norwegian  land- 
scape; Devigne,  Medifeval  fair;  C.  Richter,  'Truands  et  Ribaudes'  (after 
Victor  Hugo;  18S2) ;  Gabriel,  Canal;  Gerard,  'A  la  sante  du  Pasteur!'; 
152.  Fe/*6oecA7(oyen,  At  pasture  (1799);  A.  Roll,  Ba.cchic  dance;  Gussow  (Bev- 
lin),  Return  of  the  soldier;  Coosemans,  'La  mare  aux  corbeaux';  Verhas,  The 
little  painter;   Maes-Canini,  Juno;   Rosseels,  Moonlight-scene. 

Room  IV.  To  the  left,  P.  Parrot,  Spring;  Prion,  Bacchante  and  young 
satyr;  Meunier,  Lamentation  for  Stephen  the  martyr;  155.  Robert,  'Un 
regret'  (1849);  /.  van  Luppen,  Scene  in  Luxembourg;  Tytgadt,  Death  of 
St.  Stephen;  Karel  de  Kesel,  Maiden  entering  her  bath;  Delvin.  Fishermen; 
Sigard,  Servant  plucking  a  goose;  Cogen,  Stranded  ship  ;  118.- De  Braekeleer, 
Peasants  quarrelling;  Vanaise,  St.  Livinus  giving  sight  to  the  blind;  Bource, 
Cherries  ripe ;  De  Bi'efve,  Widow  of  Count  Egmont ;  Meckel,  Eastern  land- 
scape;  L''Hermi(e,  Grandmother's  precepts;  Picque,  Hebe. 

The  neighbouring  street,  Cour  du  Prince  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  derives 
its  name  from  the  old  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders  (p.  37)  of 
which  the  only  relic  is  a  gateway  under  a  recently  restored  build- 
iug,  in  the  direction  of  the  Rabot.  —  A  little  farther  on  is  the 

4* 


52     Route  7.  GHENT.  Casino. 

Qua!  du  Rabot,  leading  to  the  small  i'ort,  with  two  towers,  called 
Le  Rabot  (PI.  B,  3).  Here  in  1488  the  army  of  Emperor  Frede- 
rick III.,  advancing  to  support  the  claims  of  his  son  Maximilian 
(p.  22),  made  an  assault  which  was  successfully  resisted  The  old 
Flemish  inscription  on  the  outside  of  the  gate  records  the  bravery 
of  the  guilds  which  fought  under  Duke  Pliilip  of  Cleve. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Coupure,  a  canal  completed  in  1758, 
connecting  the  Lei  with  the  great  Bruges  Canal  (pleasant  promenade 
in  the  evening"),  is  situated  the  handsome  Casino  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  built 
in  1835  by  L.  Roelandt.  Open-air  concerts  (military  band)  are  held 
in  summer  in  the  large  garden.  The  Casino  belongs  to  a  horticultural 
society  (Maatschappy  van  Kruidkunde),  and  is  employed  for  the 
famous  flower-shows  of  Ghent,  which  were  established  in  1808 
and  occur  twice  a  year.  Ghent,  which  is  not  unfitly  surnamed  'La 
Ville  de  Flore\  has  a  specialty  for  horticulture,  and  annually  exports 
whole  cargoes  of  camellias,  azaleas,  orange-trees,  and  other  hot- 
house plants  to  Holland,  Germany,  France,  Russia,  and  America. 
In  April  and  May  the  hyacinths  and  tulips  are  at  their  best.  The 
cultivation  of  orchids  also  flourishes.  There  are  upwards  of  eighty 
nursery-gardens  in  the  environs  of  the  city,  the  most  important  of 
which  is  that  of  L.  van  Houtte,  in  Gentbrugge  (tramway  from  the 
Kouter  to  Ledeberg,  then  to  the  left  of  the  terminus  and  past  the 
stables  ;  PI.  E,.6).    A^isitors  are  readily  admitted. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Casino,  on  the  other  side  of  the  canal,  rises 
the  Maison  de  Force  {^Rasphuis^  PI.  A,  B,  4),  a  prison  formerly  of  Euro- 
pean celebrity.  The  building  was  begun  under  Maria  Theresa  in  1772, 
but  not  completed  until  1825.  A  new  wing  has  lately  been  erected, 
which  contains  158  cells  for  confinement  on  the  Auburn,  or  silent, 
system.  It  is  adapted  for  prisoners  to  whom  absolutely  solitary  con- 
finement is  unsuited.  —  Near  this  is  a  new  prison,  the  Maison  de 
Surete,  with  325  cells,  accommodating  420  convicts. 

Belgium  has  perhaps  done  more  for  the  reform  of  the  Prison  System 
than  any  other  country.  The  strict  separation  of  the  convicts  by  day 
and  night,  at  work,  at  meals,  at  church,  in  the  schools,  or  at  exercise 
in  the  prison  court,  has  been  adopted  throughout  the  land.  The  efforts 
made  for  the  mental  and  moral  improvement  of  the  inmates  merit  all 
praise.  The  most  important  establishments  next  to  those  at  Louvain 
and  Ghent  are  the  prisons  at  Antwerp,  Mons,  Arlon,  Tournai,  and  Malines. 
Visitors  (with  the  exception  of  superior  prison  officials)  are  not  admitted 
without  permission  from  the  Minister  of  Justice  at  Brussels. 

As  we  follow  the  Coupure  to  the  left  (S.E.)  to  its  junction  with 
the  Lei  (see  above),  we  see  on  the  right  the  Blind  Asylum  {Hospice 
des  Aveugles;  PI.  6,  5),  a  red  brick  building,  behind  which  lies  the 
extensive  new  Civil  Hospital  {Hopitol  Civil;  PI.  B;  C,  6),  named 
after  the  former  abbey  of  Biloque,  which  was  founded  in  the  13th 
cent.  (adm.  Quai  do  la  Biloqut-  4 ;  ring).  In  the  interior  to  the 
right  are  the  offices,  nearly  opposite  which  is  the  house  of  the  Sisters 
of  Charity,  two  brick  and  stone  buldings  of  the  17th  century.  To 
the  right  of  the  former  is  the  old  Abbey  Church  (13th  cent.),  with 


Kouter.  GHENT.  7.  Route.     53 

an  elegant  double  gable.  The  interior  is  divided  into  sick-wards, 
from  the  long  corridor  connecting  which  we  may  inspect  the  huge 
timber  roof,  like  an  inverted  ship's  hull.  Behind  the  hou  se  of  the 
Sisters  of  Charity,  to  the  left  (W.),  in  the  corner  of  th  e  large 
vegetable  garden,  is  the  very  interesting  brick ■*Gable  of  the  i  ormer 
Refectory^  also  'dating  from  the  13th  cent,  (visible  also  from  the 
Boulevard  des  Hospices).  This  and  the  adjoining  building  are  now 
used  as  a  Hospice  for  Old  Men  {Oudmannekenshuis ;  entrance  Boul. 
des  Hospices  2;  small  present  to  the  hospice).  In  the  interior  of 
the  refectory,  which  is  divided  by  a  structure  of  1715,  the  ribs  of 
the  almost  unaltered  timber  roof  still  retain  the  original  colouring 
(red,  yellow,  blue,  and  white).  On  the  end-walls  are  frescoes  of 
the  13th  cent. :  on  the  N..  Christ  with  the  Lamb  and  St.  Christopher ; 
on  the  S.,  Christ  blessing  a  woman  (perhaps  the  foundress  Gertrude 
Utenhove;  comp.  p.  xxxix). 

Amoni:  the  other  Wall-paintings  in  Ghent  which  are  of  interest  to  the 
student  of  art  are  those  in  the  Ahhey  of  St.  Bavon  (i2th  cent.;  p.  46); 
the  copies  in  the  Archseological  Museum  (p.  50)  of  the  representations  of 
the  Ghent  militia  (14th  cent.),  formerly  in  the  old  chapel  known  as  the 
Leughemeete;   and  the  paintings  in  the  old  Boucherie  (15th  cent.;  p.  49), 

Beyond  the  neighbouring  Pont  de  la  Materuite'  is  the  Pare  de 
la  Citadelle,  laid  out  on  the  site  of  the  works  of  the  citadel,  built 
after  1815.  A  monument  consisting  of  a  negro  seated  upon  a  rock 
commemorates  the  brothers  Van  de  Velde,  natives  of  Ghent,  who 
died  on  the  Congo  (1882  and  1888).  —  No.  178  in  the  Rue  de 
Courtrai,  which  leads  hence  back  to  the  town,  is  the  Schreiboom 
chapel  (PI.  13 ;  C,  6),  with  pictures  of  children  (from  the  15th  cent, 
down  to  the  present  time)  who  have  been  restored  to  health  in  the 
hospital  with  which  it  is  connected. 


The  Kouter,  or  Place  dWrmes  (PL  C,  5),  is  a  large  open  space 
planted  with  a  double  row  of  lime-trees,  where  a  band  plays  on  Sunday 
mornings  and  Wednesday  evenings  in  summer.  On  Sunday  morn- 
ings an  abundantly  supplied  flower-market  is  held  here.  On  the  E. 
side  of  the  Kouter  is  the  Cafe  des  Arcades,  said  to  occupy  the  site 
of  the  house  of  the  brothers  Hubert  and  Jan  van  Eyck,  where  they 
painted  their  celebrated  picture.  On  the  Kouter  are  the  two  hotels 
mentioned  at  p.  36,  and  also  the  four  largest  clubs  of  Ghent.  — 
The  S.W.  corner  is  occupied  by  the  Theatre  (PL  25  ;  C,  5),  erected 
by  Roelandt  in  1848. 

The  Palais  de  Justice  (PL  21 ;  C,  5),  an  imposing  edifice  by 
Roelandt,  completed  in  1846,  is  bounded  on  two  sides  by  the  Lys. 
The  chief  facade  to  the  N.  has  a  Corinthian  portico,  and  is  approached 
by  a  lofty  flight  of  steps. 

The  Salle  des  Pas  Perdus  (85  yds.  long,  25  yds.  wide),  usually  entered 
by  a  flight  of  steps  from  the  Rue  du  Commerce,  contains  a  few  modern 
paintings :  Math,  van  Brie,  Conclusion  of  the  Pacification  of  Ghent  in  the 
Hotel  de  Ville;  opposite,  L.  de  Taeye,  Charles  ilarteVs  victory  over  the 
Saracens  near  Poitiers   (732);   C.  Montald,   Struggle  for  existence,  a  large 


54     Route?.  GHENT.  St..  Pierre, 

allegorical  subject;  Van  iSeverdonck,  Cavalry-skirmisli  between  Flemings 
and  Spaniards. 

The  Place  des  Recollets,  in  front  of  the  Palais  de  Justice,  is  em- 
,l)ellished  witli  a  statue  of  Metdepenningen  (d.  1881),  advocate  and 
leader  of  tlie  liberals  of  Ghent. 

The  University  [PL  C,  4),  another  edifice  by  Roelandt,  has  its 
facade,  with  a  Corinthian  peristyle,  towards  the  Rue  des  Foulons. 
The  Aula,  reached  through  a  covered  court  and  a  vestibule,  which 
is  adorned  with  frescoes  \)y  Alfr.  Cluysenaar  [Henry  IV.  at  Canossa, 
Leaders  of  the  Reformation,  Renaissance,  and  French  Revolution), 
is  a  rotunda  supported  by  marble  columns  in  the  style  of  the  Pan- 
theon, and  capable  of  containing  1700  persons.  The  inscription  on 
the  chief  facade  records  the  foundation  of  the  building  under  Wil- 
liam I.,  in  1826.  The  Natural  History  Museum  is  a  collection  of 
some  merit.  —  An  Ecole  du  Genie  Civil  and  an  Ecole  des  Arts  et 
Manufactures  are  connected  with  the  university.  The  number  of 
students  is  about  900. 

Among  the  teacbers  who  have  shed  lustre  on  this  university,  founded 
like  those  of  Liege  and  Louvain  in  1817,  are  Jos.  Plateau  (d.  1883),  the 
physicist;  Fi:  Laurent  (p.  38)  and  Eaus  (d.  1880),  the  jurists;  Ouislain 
(d."l80(J),  the  philosopher;  and  Fr.  Muet,  the  philosopher,  who  died  in  18C9 
as  tutor  to  king  Milan  of  Servia. 

The  narrow  Rue  de  la  Crapaudiere,  to  the  E.  of  the  university,  tra- 
verses the  site  of  the  garden  of  Jacob  van  Artevelde  (p.  45),  who  was 
assassinated  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  Klaus's  restaurant  (p.  3b). 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  town  beyond  the  Schelde,  to  the  S.,  in 
the  Rue  Plateau ,  rises  the  Institut  des  Sciences  (PI.  C ,  5,6), 
completed  in  1890  after  plans  by  Ad.  Fauli.  Next  to  the  Palais  de 
Justice  at  Brussels,  this  is  the  largest  architectural  work  in  Bel- 
gium, and  covers  nearly  31/2  acres  of  ground.  It  contains  the  lec- 
ture-rooms and  laboratories  of  the  university  faculty  of  physical 
science  and  of  the  technical  schools  connected  with  the  university. 
No.  9  in  the  neighbouring  Rue  Guinard  is  the  Beroeps  or  Amhacht- 
School,  attended  by  about  100  apprentice  turners,  joiners,  lock- 
smiths, blacksmiths,  etc. 

The  Church  of  St.  Pierre  [PI.  11 ;  D,  6),  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  height  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  town,  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  in  610  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Mars.  It  has  been  several 
times  renewed,  and  after  its  destruction  by  the  iconoclasts  in  1578 
was  rebuilt  in  1629-1718  from  plans  by  Van  Sante.  The  interior 
contains  a  few  pictures. 

South  Alsle:  JV.  Jioose  (Liemaeckere),  Nativity  of  Christ;  Er.  Quel- 
lin  the  Younger,  Triumph  of  the  Catholic  religion.  —  North  Aisle  :  Van 
Thulden,  Pictures  representing  the  triumph  of  Roman  Catholicism  (copies 
of  paintings  by  Rubens,  now  lost).  —  RErRo-CiioiR,to  the  right:  A.  Janssens, 
Liberation  of  Peter;  Van  den  Avont,  Holy  Family,  with  dancing  angels; 
Janssens,  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes,  as  an  accessory  to  a  large  land- 
scape. Also  five  small  pictures  by  Van  Doorselaer,  of  the  period  of  the 
Spanish  supremacy,  illustrative  of  the  virtues  of  the  miraculous  image 
of  the  Virgin  on  the  altar.  On  the  other  side:  Seghers,  Raising  of  Laza- 
rus ;  De  Craiiev,  St.  Benedict  recognising  the  equerry  of  the  Gothic  King 
Totilas ;    Jievsschoot   (d.    1795),  Landscape,  the   healing   of  a  blind  man  as 


DEYNZE.  8.  Route.     55 

accessory;  'Janssens^  Landscape  with  two  hermits.  —  Isabella,  sister  of 
Charles  V. ,  and  wife  of  Christian  II.  of  Denmark,  is  interred  in  this 
church,  but  no  monument  marks  the  spot. 

The  open  space  in  front  of  the  church  has  heen  formed  by  the 
demolition  of  part  of  the  old  abbey-huildings.  Another  part  serves 
as  a  barrack.  The  landlord  of  the  barrack-canteen  shows  a  fine 
15th  cent,  cloister  (fee). 

Ghent,  like  Antwerp  and  Brussels,  possesses  its  Jardin  Zoo^ 
logique  (PI.  D,  6),  situated  near  the  station  of  the  government  rail- 
way (admission  1  fr.).  The  interior  of  the  neighbouring  Church  of 
St.  Anne  (PI.  3;  E,  5),  erected  from  Roelandt's  designs  in  1853,  is 
gaudily  decorated  by  Canned.  —  The  Rue  Longue  des  Violettes, 
diverging  to  the  W.  from  the  church,  leads  to  the  — 

*Petit  Beguinage  (PI.  E,  5,  6;  comp.  p.  47),  which  contains 
about  300  nuns,  and  has  remained  unaltered  since  the  17-18th  cen- 
turies. The  scrupulously  clean  little  houses  are  arranged  round 
a  rectangular  grassy  space  planted  with  trees ;  while  another  square 
block  of  similar  houses  with  narrow  lanes  between  adjoins.  A 
dazzlingly  white  wall  surrounds  the  whole.  Each  house  has  its 
own  patron-saint,  whose  name  is  inscribed  above  the  door.  The 
church  (17th  cent.)  occupies  almost  the  entire  N.E.  side  of  the 
grassy  space.  The  Convent  ter  Bloemen  (Convent  des  Fleurs)  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  of  the  convents  here  (comp.  p.  48;  ad- 
mission easily  obtained). 

A  pleasant  drive  (4-5  hrs.)  may  be  taken  to  the  S.W.  from  Ghent  to 
the  interesting  castle  of  Oydonck,  near  the  village  of  Bachte-Maria-Leerne 
(Sterre  Innj.  The  castle,  also  reached  on  foot  in  3/4  hr,  from  the  station 
of  Deurle  (see  below),  was  built  in  iijiX)  by  Philip  of  Slontmorency,  partly 
destroyed  in  1579,  and  frequently  restored,  finally  in  186i. 

8.  From  Ghent  to  Courtrai  and  Tournai. 

Railway  from  Ghent  to  Courtrai  (27V-..  M.)  in  D/thr.  (fares  3  fr.  35, 
2fr.  5C),  Ifr.  70c.)-,  from  Courtrai  to  Tournai  (201,2  M.)  in  8/4-!  hr.  (2fr.  50, 
Ifr.  90,  Ifr.  25c.;  express  fares  3fr.  15,  2fr.  35,  Ifr.  60c.).  From  Tournai 
to  Brussels,  see  R.  11. 

From  Ghent  to  (6  M.)  La  Pinte,  see  p.  31.  The  line  to  Oude- 
naarde,  Leuze,  and  Mons  here  diverges  to  the  left. 

Fkoji  Ghent  to  Oddenaakde,  17  M.,  railway  in  50  min.  (fares  2  fr.  5, 
1  fr.  55,  i  fr.  5  c);  to  Leuze,  36V2  M.,  in  Is/^  hr.  (4  fr.  50,  3  fr.  35,  2  fr. 
25  c);  via  St.  Ghisiain  to  Mons,  5S  M.,  in  3V4  hrs.  (7  fr.  15,  5  fr.  40,  3  fr. 
60  c).  —  Stations :  Eecke- Nazareth^  Gavere,  Synghem^  Eyne^  and  Oudenaarde 
(p.  33),  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Brussels  to  Courtrai  (R.  6).  Then 
Leupeghem^  Etichove,  Louise -Marie,  Renaix  (where  branches  diverge  to 
Courtrai  and  Bassilly,  p.  70),  Anvaing,  Frasnes,  Leuze  (junction  of  the 
Brussels-Lille  line,  p.  69),  BasHles  ^  Blaton  (p.  69),  Po7nmeroetil,  Si.  Ghis- 
iain (p.  180).    58  M.  Mons,  see  p.  178. 

8M.  Deurle;  11  M.  Deynze  (route  thenee  to  Thielt  and  Ingel- 
miinster,  see  p.  31;  steam -tramway  to  Oudenaarde  see  p.  33); 
1 3 1/2 M.  iVac/ieien;  151/2  M.  Olsene ;  iS^/2 'M..  Waereghem,  junction 
for  the  connecting  line  between  Anseghem  (p.  34)  andlngelmiinster 
(p.  33);  211/2  M.  Desselghem;  24  M.  Harleheke,  where  tobacco  is 
extensively  grown. 


56    Route  8.  COURTRAT.  From  Ghent 

271/2  M.  Courtrai,  Flem.  Kortryk  (*Lion  d'Or,  moderate;  Hotel 
du  Damier,  both  in  the  Grande  Place ;  Hotel  Royal  and  Hotel  du 
Midi,  at  the  station ;  opposite,  Hotel  du  Nord ;  Rail.  Restaurant ; 
Cafe  Beige  and  Cafe  FranQais,  in  the  market-place),  a  manufacturing 
town  with  29,400  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Lei  (LysJ ,  is  famous 
for  its  table-linen  and  its  lace,  in  the  manufacture  of  which 
5000-GOOO  women  are  employed.  The  flax  of  Courtrai  enjoys  a 
high  reputation,  and  is  manufactured  in  various  districts  of  Belgium, 
as  well  as  in  the  town  itself.  It  is  prepared  with  great  care  and 
skill.  After  being  cut,  it  is  carefully  sunned  and  dried,  stored 
for  a  year,  then  steeped  in  the  water  of  the  Ley,  and  sent  to  the 
factory.  About  one-twentieth  of  the  soil  in  the  environs  produces 
flax.  There  are  also  extensive  bleaching-grounds  in  the  vicinity.  — 
Two  or  three  hours  suffice  for  seeing  the  town. 

The  street  (Rue  du  Chemin  de  Fer)  running  straight  from  the 
station,  and  then  turning  to  the  right,  leads  to  the  large  market- 
place [Groote  Markt  or  Grande  Place)  where  the  town-hall  rises  on 
the  left  and  the  belfry  on  the  right. 

The  *TowN  Hall,  erected  in  1526-28,  has  been  completely 
restored  since  1846,  and  the  facade  embellished  with  statues  in 
the  original  style.  Two  richly-decorated  *Chimney-pieces  in  the 
interior  are  worthy  of  notice.  One  of  them ,  in  the  Salle  Eche- 
vinale  on  the  ground-floor,  is  adorned  with  the  coats  -  of-arms  of 
the  allied  towns  of  Ghent  and  Bruges, the  standard-bearers  of  the 
knights  of  Courtrai,  a  figure  of  the  Virgin,  and  statues  of  Archduke 
Albert  and  his  wife.  This  room  has  been  embellished  with  well- 
painted  frescoes  from  the  history  of  Flanders  by  Guffens  and 
Siverts,  completed  in  1875.  The  principal  of  these  represent  the 
Departure  of  Baldwin  IX. ,  Count  of  Flanders,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  fourth  Crusade  (1202),  and  the  Consultation  of  the  Flemish 
leaders  in  the  Court  Room  the  day  before  the  Battle  of  the  Spurs, 
1302  (see  p.  57).  —  The  other  and  more  interesting  chimney- 
piece,  in  the  Council  Chamber  upstairs  ,  in  the  richest  Flamboyant 
style,  was  completed  before  1527.  Two  rows  of  well-executed  sta- 
tuettes represent  the  diff'erent  Virtues  and  Vices :  in  the  upper  sec- 
tion we  see  faith,  humility,  liberality,  chastity,  brotherly  love, 
temperance,  patience,  and  watchfulness;  in  the  middle  section, 
idolatry,  pride,  avarice,  voluptuousness,  envy,  gluttony,  anger,  and 
sloth.  The  reliefs  below  indicate  the  punishments  which  follow  in 
the  train  of  these  vices.  On  corbels  are  placed  statuettes  of  Charles 
v.,  the  Infanta  Isabella  (on  the  right),  and  Justice  (on  the  left).  — 
The  walls  are  covered  with  large  plans  of  the  town  and  its  juris- 
diction (^castelany'J,  painted  in  oil  (1641). 

Nearly  opposite  the  Town  Hall  rises  the  Belfry.  —  We  next 
proceed  to  St.  Martin's  Churcu,  the  Gothic  tower  of  which  is 
visible  from  the  Grande  Place;  the  nave  was  erected  in  1390-1439, 
the  transept  about  1415.  In  1862  the  church  was  struck  by  lightning 


to  Tournai.  COURTRAI.  8.  Route.    57 

and  partly  biirned  down,  but  it  lias  since  been  restored.  Beautiful 
"W.  portal.  The  handsome  pulpit  of  carved  wood  and  the  beautiful 
ciborium  in  stone  (in  the  choir,  to  the  left),  executed  in  1385,  were 
saved  from  the  fire.  The  left  aisle  contains  a  winged  picture  by  B. 
de  Ryckere  (of  Courtrai ;  1587),  representing  the  Descent  of  the  Holy 
Ghost,  the  Creation,  and  Baptism. 

The  Rue  Notre-Dame  leads  from  the  market-place,  opposite 
the  Lion  d'Or,  to  the  church  of  Notre  Dame,  founded  by  Count 
Baldwin  IX.  of  Flanders  (p.  56),  and  completed  in  1211.  The  choir, 
which  is  decorated  with  marble,  and  the  portal  were  rebuilt  in  the 
18th  century.  The  chapel  behind  the  choir  contains  the  *Raising  of 
the  Cross,  one  of  Van  DycWs  best  pictures,  unfortunately  badly 
lighted ;  resembling  a  Rubens  in  boldness  of  design ,  it  is  inferior 
in  freshness  of  colour,  but  the  profound  expression  of  tenderness 
and  pain  depicted  in  the  countenance  of  the  Crucified  are  unsur- 
passed. The  altars  to  the  right  and  left  are  adorned  with  good  reliefs 
in  marble  of  the  18th  cent.,  by  Lecreux,  representing  St.  Rochus 
among  the  plague-stricken,  and  Mary  Magdalene  with  angels.  The 
Chapel  of  the  Counts  on  the  right,  added  to  the  church  in  1373,  is 
adorned  with  wall-paintings  of  the  llthcent. ,  representing  the 
counts  and  countesses  of  Flanders,  recently  restored  by  Van  der 
Platz,  who  continued  the  series  down  to  Emp.  Francis  II.  The  Last 
Judgment,  on  the  W.  wall  of  the  chapel,  is  also  by  Van  der  Platz. 

Farther  to  the  left,  on  the  Lys,  are  two  massive  old  bridge- 
towers.  —  In  the  Rue  du  Beguinage  (No.  14),  which  leads  from 
Notre  Dame  to  St.  Martin's,  is  a  Museum  containing  several  good 
modern  pictures  (fee  25  c).  The  following  are  among  the  best : 
Nic.  de  Keyser,  Battle  of  the  Spurs  (see  below) ;  L.  Verhoeckhoven^ 
Sea-piece;  Robbe,  Cattle;  VanDewin,  Grey  horse;  Steinicke,  Tyxolese 
landscape;  Dobbelaare,  Memling  in  St.  John's  Hospital  at  Bruges 
(see  p.  18). 

Below  the  walls  of  Courtrai ,  on  11th  Jnly ,  1302 ,  was  fought  the 
famous  Battle  of  the  Spurs,  in  which  the  Flemish  army,  consisting  chiefly 
of  weavers  from  Ghent  and  Bruges,  under  Count  John  of  Xamur  and 
Duke  William  of  Juliers ,  defeated  the  French  under  the  Count  of  Ar- 
tois.  Upwards  of  1200  knights  and  several  thousand  soldiers  fell.  The 
victors  afterwards  collected  700  golden  spurs,  an  appendage  worn  by  the 
French  knights  alone ,  and  hung  them  up  as  trophies  in  a  monastery- 
church  which  has  since  been  destroyed.  A  small  Chapel  outside  the 
Ghent  Gate,  erected  in  1831,  marks  the  centre  of  the  battle-field. 

From  Courtrai  to  Brussels  and  to  Ypres,  see  R.  6.  —  Courtrai  is  also 
connected  by  a  branch-line  with  Renaix  (p.  55). 

At  Courtrai  the  Tournai  line  quits  the  flat  land  and  enters  an 
undulating  and  picturesque  district.  The  Flemish  language  gives 
way  to  the  French.  31  M.  Lauwe ;  35  M.  Mouscron  (the  s  mute), 
the  Belgian  douane  for  travellers  arriving  from  France. 

From  Mocscron  to  Lille,  U  M.,  railway  in  37  min.  (fares  2  fr.  20,  1  fr. 
65,  1  fr.  20  c).  —  3'/2  M.  Tourcoing  ( Hdtel' dn  Cygne),  a  busy  manufactur- 
ing town  of  58,000  inhab.,  with  a  monument  commemorating  the  defeat  of 
the  English  and  Austriaus  by  Jourdain  and  Mureau  in  1794.  —  5  M.  Roubaix 


58     Route  9,  TOURNAI. 

(Hdtel  Ferraille),  an  important  wool-combing  and  linen-manufacturing 
town,  the  population  of  which  has  risen  during  the  present  century  from 
8000  to  100,000  (comp.  Baedeker''s  Northern  France).  — Near  Croix- Wasquehal 
the  train  crosses  the  Eoubaix  Canal,  which  connects  the  Deule  with  the 
Schelde.  —   U  M.  Lille,  see  p.  64. 

The  next  station,  Herseaux - Estaimpuis ,  is  connected  by  a 
branch-line  with  the  railway  from  Renaix  (p.  55)  to  Courtrai.  Be- 
tween Nechin  and  Templeuve  the  Belgian  line  quits  the  province  of 
West  Flanders  for  that  of  HainauU  (Germ.  Hennegau).  To  the  left 
rises  Mont  St.  Aubert  (p.  61),  425  ft.  in  height,  also  called  Ste. 
Trinite,  from  the  small  church  on  its  summit.  It  is  4M.  distant 
from  Tournai,  and  is  much  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  fine  view  it 
commands.  Near  Tournai  the  train  crosses  the  Schelde,  and  finally 
stops  on  the  handsome  quay  constructed  by  Louis  XIV. 

9.    Tournai. 

Arrival.  The  Station  (PI.  1),  2,  3),  opened  for  traffic  in  1879,  is  a 
handsome  building  by  Beyaert  of  Brussels. 

Hotels.  Hotel  DE  l'Imp^katkice  (PI.  a;  A, 3),  Rue  de  Manx  12;  Hotel 
Petite  Kef  (PI.  c;  B,  2),  Rue  du  Cygne  30,  R.,  L..  &  A.  2-4,  B.  1,  D.  2, 
omn.  1/2  fi". ;  Bellevue  (PI.  d ;  C ,  2) ,  Quai  Dumon  6  ,  with  an  eslaminet, 
R.  I'/z  fr. ;  Hotel  Menu,  Rue  Royale  27  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  moderate.  Hotel  des 
Neuf  ProviNCES,  Place  Cromberg,  both  near  the  station.  —  Table  d'hote 
in  all  at  1  p.m. 

Restaurants.  Taverne  Alsacienne  and  Restaurant  Bavaro-Belge,  in  the 
Grande  Place ;  Taverne  du  Globe  (English  beer)  and  Ca/i  Vinitien,  in  the  Rue 
Royale,  near  the  new  station;  all  with  good  cuisine. 

About  3-3V2  hrs.  will  suffice  for  a  visit  to  the  Cathedral,  the  Church 
of  St.  Quentin,  and  the  pictures  in  the  Hotel  de  Ville. 

Tournai,  Flem.  Doornik,  with  34,800  inhab.,  the  most  important 
and  prosperous  town  of  Hainault,  and  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Bel- 
gium ,  was  the  Civitas  Nerviorum  of  Csesar,  afterwards  called  Tur- 
nacum.  In  the  5th  century  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Merovingian 
kings.  At  a  later  period  the  town  belonged  to  France,  but  in 
1525  it  was  united  with  the  Spanish  Netherlands  in  accordance  with 
the  Peace  of  Madrid.  In  1581  Tournai  was  heroically  defended 
against  Alexander  of  Parma  by  the  Princess  d'Epinoy,  who,  al- 
though wounded  in  the  arm,  refused  to  quit  the  ramparts,  and  did 
not  surrender  the  fortress  until  the  greater  part  of  the  garrison  had 
fallen.  In  1667  the  town  was  taken  after  a  protracted  siege  by 
Louis  XIV.,  who  caused  it  to  be  fortified  by  Vauban,  and  in  1709 
it  was  captured  by  the  Imperial  troops  under  Prince  Eugene  and 
the  Duke  of  Marlborough.  In  1745  Tournai  again  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  French,  and  in  1748  it  was  assigned  to  the  Nether- 
lands by  the  Treaty  of  Aix-la-Chapelle.  The  fortifications  were  de- 
molished by  Joseph  II.  in  1781,  but  were  renewed  in  1815-69. 
The  numerous  sieges  it  has  undergone  have  greatly  altered  the  ex- 
ternal appearance  of  the  town,  and  have  left  little  trace  of  its  ven- 
erable age,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  interesting  mediaeval  houses. 
The  old  walls  have  been  converted  into  promenades.  —  The  preten- 
der, Perkin  Warbeck,  was  born  here. 


Vagntr  4  Debes,  Leipzig-. 


TOURNAI.  9.  Route.    59 

Stockings,  faience,  and  carpets  are  the  staple  manufactures  of 
Tournai.  The  latter  are  generally  known  as  Brussels  carpets.  The  art 
of  weaving  carpets  is  said  to  have  been  brought  to  Europe  by  Flem- 
ings, who  learned  it  from  the  Saracens  at  the  time  of  the  Crusades. 
Most  of  the  carpets  are  made  by  the  work-people  in  their  own  dwell- 
ings, and  as  there  are  few  large  factories  in  the  town ,  it  presents  a 
much  cleaner  and  pleasanter  appearance  than  the  other  large  in- 
dustrial towns  of  Belgium. 

The  Scheldt  (Escaut)  divides  the  town  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts  ,  of  which  that  on  the  left  bank  is  by  far  the  busier  and  more 
important ;  but  considerable  improvements  have  taken  place  on  the 
right  bank  since  the  completion  of  the  new  railway-station.  The 
handsome,  broad  Quays,  planted  with  trees,  contribute  to  render 
Tournai  one  of  the  pleasantest-looking  towns  in  Belgium.  The  river 
is  generally  crowded  with  barges,  most  of  which  are  laden  with  coal 
from  the  mines  of  Mons,  and  are  bound  for  Ghent,  etc. 

The  *Catliedral  (^Notre-Dame;  PI.  4;  B,  3),  a  noble  example  of 
the  Romanesque  style ,  rises  conspicuously  above  the  houses  on  the 
left  bank.  It  is  a  cruciform  basilica  borne  by  pillars,  with  a  retro- 
choir  and  radiating  chapels,  and  has  five  towers  above  the  cross  and 
two  on  the  facade.  The  nave,  which  was  not  vaulted  until  the 
18th  cent.,  dates  from  the  middle  of  the  12th,  and  was  consecrated 
in  1213.  The  transept  was  erected  in  the  13th  cent,  by  French 
masters,  on  the  model  of  the  Cologne  churches.  The  beautiful 
Gothic  choir  is  of  later  date,  and  was  consecrated  in  1338,  and  the 
facade ,  originally  Romanesque ,  was  ^altered  and  provided  with  a 
porch  in  the  pointed  style  about  the  same  period  (comp.  p.  xxxviij. 
Among  the  sculptures  in  the  porch,  which  were  executed  at  various 
periods  from  the  13th  to  the  17th  century,  are  interesting  reliefs 
representing  the  Creation ,  Fall ,  and  Expulsion  from  Paradise,  by 
sculptors  of  Tournai,  dating  from  about  the  year  1200  (see  p.  xxxix). 
The  Interior  was  purged  in  1852  of  the  unsuitable  additions 
with  which  it  had  been  disfigured  in  the  course  of  centuries,  and  is 
now  strikingly  impressive.  It  consists  of  nave  and  aisles  136  yds. 
in  length ;  nave  78  ft.  wide  and  78  ft.  high ;  breadth  of  transept 
73  yds. ;  height  of  choir  107  ft.  The  walls  above  the  aisles  are 
relieved  by  a  triforium.  The  large  chapel  adjoining  the  left  aisle 
was  added  in  1516-18.  The  capitals  of  the  pillars,  which  are  asso- 
ciated with  columns,  are  particularly  rich  and  varied.  The  propor- 
tions of  the  transept  are  more  graceful,  and  the  galleries  lower. 

The  chiircli  contains  a  few  pictures.  In  the  first  chapel  of  the  S.  (right) 
Aisle,  on  the  posterior  wall,  a  Crucifixion  by  Jordaens.  The  chapel  of 
the  N.  Aisle  (Chapelle  Paroissiale  de  Notre-Dame),  which  contains  some 
modern  stained  glass,  is  used  for  the  ordinary  services  of  the  cathe- 
dral ,  the  choir  being  reserved  for  episcopal  functions.  —  In  the 
Transept,  right,  a  Holy  Family  with  a  glory  of  angels,  painted  by  M.  de 
Nigre  in  16o0.  Most  of  the  stained-glass  windows  were  executed  by 
Stuerbout  of  Haarlem  about  the  year  1465.  Their  subjects  refer  to  the 
history  of  the  bishopric  of  Tournai,  which  received  important  privileges 
in  the   6th  cent,   from   King  Chilperic   for  services  rendered   in  his   war 


60     Route  9.  TOURNAT.  Belfry. 

against  his  brother,  the  Austrasian  monarch  Sigebert  (right  transept),  and 
in  the  12th  cent,  from  Pope  Eugenius  III.  (left  transept).  —  The  richly 
sculptured  rood-loft,  which  separates  the  choir  from  the  nave,  executed 
by  Com.  de  Vriendi  in  the  Renaissance  style,  with  marble  reliefs  from  the 
Old  and  New  Testament,  was  erected  in  156G ;  it  is  surmounted  by  a  large 
group  in  bronze  by  Lecreux,  representing  St.  Blichael  overcoming  Satan. 
—  The  stained  glass  of  the  Cuoir  by  Capronnier  is  modern. 

Retro-Choir,  beginning  on  the  left  side  of  the  rood-loft :  Lancelot  Blon- 
deel^  Judgment  of  Solomon,  Visitation,  Adoration,  etc.;  Oallait  .,  Christ 
restoring  the  blind  to  sight,  one  of  the  master's  earliest  works.  Farther 
on,  adjoining  the  high-altar,  is  the  Romanesque  Reliquary  of  St.  Eleu- 
therius ,  the  first  Bishop  of  Tournai  (6th  cent.),  elaborately  executed  in 
silver-gilt  in  the  year  1247,  and  adorned  with  the  figures  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles.  At  the  back  of  the  high-altar  is  a  Pietii  by  Duquesnoy  (17th 
cent.),  above  which  is  a  bishop's  tomb  with  recumbent  figure,  and  two 
tablets  with  the  names  of  all  the  bishops  and  canons  of  Tournai.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  high-altar  is  the  Reliquary  of  St.  Piat,  of  about  1280.  — 
Then  in  the  Chapel  to  the  left,  which  is  adorned  with  stained  glass 
commemorating  the  Council  of  1870,  is  a  large  picture  by  Rubens,  Rescue 
of  souls  from  Purgatory,  a  bold  composition. 

The  Sacristy  contains  a  very  valuable  crucifix  in  ivory  by  Dw^Meswoy, 
a  reliquary  of  the  Merovingian  period  in  the  shape  of  a  Greek  cross,  and 
an  ivory  diptych  of  the  llth  century. 

Opposite  the  Episcopal  Palace  (PI.  17;  B,  3)  is  the  public  Li- 
brary, containing  about  8000  early  printed  works  and  250  MSS. 

The  Belfry  (PI.  3;  B,  3),  to  the  S.W.  of  the  cathedral,  dates 
from  1187,  but  was  partly  rebuilt  in  1391  and  restored  in  1852. 
The  spire  is  modern.  A  set  of  chimes,  placed  in  the  tower  in  1878, 
plays  every  half-hour.  The  ascent  is  recommended,  particularly  for 
the  sake  of  the  view  of  the  cathedral  (260  steps  to  the  platform  ; 
door-keeper  at  the  entrance  and  custodian  at  the  top,  25  c.  each). 

The  triangular  Grande  Place  (PI.  B,  3)  in  the  centre  of 
the  town  is  embellished  with  a  Statue  of  Marie  de  Lalaing,  Prin- 
cess d'Epinoy  (PI.  20),  in  bronze,  designed  by  Dutrieux.  The  heroic 
lady  is  represented  in  complete  armour,  with  a  battle-axe  in  her 
hand,  leading  her  fellow-citizens  against  the  enemy  (see  p.  58). 

To  the  S.  of  this  statue  is  the  former  Cloth  Hall  (Halle  aux 
Draps)  a  Kenaissance  building  of  1710,  restored  by  Carpentier.  On 
the  first  floor  is  the  Municipal  Picture  Gallery.  Among  the  ancient 
works  are  :  Madonna,  in  the  style  of -C/onJee^ ,•  Descent  from  the 
Cross,  ascribed  to  Roger  van  der  Weyden.,  St.  Donatus  by  Ma- 
6Mse  (V) ,  portraits  by  Van  Oost,  Van  Baelen,  etc.;  Landscape  by 
Van  Thulden;  and  an  equestrian  portrait  of  Louis  XIV.  by  Lebrun. 
Among  the  modern  works  are :  Gallait  (b.  at  Tournai  in  1810;  d. 
1887) ,  Dead  bodies  of  Counts  Egmont  and  Iloorne ;  Van  Sever- 
donck,  Defence  of  Tournai  by  the  Princess  d'Epinoy.  In  the  E.  and 
W.  galleries  is  the  Musee  Archeologique,  containing  fine  ivory  carv- 
ings (Table  XV.,  Binding  of  a  copy  of  the  Gospels,  llth  cent.; 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin ,  14th  cent.) ,  works  in  metal ,  faience, 
coins  and  MSS.  with  miniatures,  including  a  psalter  that  belonged 
to  Henry  VIII.  of  England ,  a  'Livre  d'Heures'  of  the  15th  cent., 
and  the  'Roman  de  la  Rose',  of  the  14th  century.    Catalogue  20  c. 


Hotel  de  Ville.  TOURNAI.  9.  Route.     61 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Place  is  situated  the  church  of  *St.  Quentin 
(PL  12 ;  B,  3),  sometimes  called  'ia  Petite  Cathedrale\  a  remarkably 
elegant  structure,  erected  about  the  same  period  as  the  cathedral.  The 
facade  and  interior  form  an  excellent  example  of  the  transitional 
style.  The  large  paintings  (of  little  value)  in  the  nave  represent 
the  Foundation  of  the  Order  of  the  Trinitarians  for  the  purpose 
of  ransoming  Christian  captives  (1198),  and  the  Battle  of  Lepanto 
(1571).    The  stained  glass  is  by  Bethune  (1858). 

The  priory-buildings  of  the  suppressed  Monastery  of  St.  Martin, 
situated  in  a  garden  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  town,  now  serve  as 
the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  15;  A,  3,  4),  the  tympanum  of  which  con- 
tains the  arms  of  the  town,  a  tower  with  three  lilies. 

The  church  of  St.  Jacques  (PI.  6;  B,  2),  dating  from  the  12th 
and  14th  cent,  and  recently  restored  by  Bryenne,  somewhat  resem- 
bles that  of  St.  Quentin. 

St.  Brice  (PL  5;  C,  3,  4),  a  church  of  the  12th  cent. ,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Schelde ,  contained  the  tomb  of  Childeric  (d. 
480;  father  of  Clovis),  King  of  the  Franks,  which  was  discovered  in 
1653  on  the  destruction  of  a  house  adjoining  the  church. 

A  number  of  interesting  curiosities,  most  of  which  are  now  preserved 
in  the  ^National  Library  at  Paris,  were  found  in  the  coffin;  among 
them  were  upwards  of  300  small  figures  in  gold,  resembling  bees,  with 
which  the  royal  robes  are  said  to  have  been  decorated.  Napoleon ,  on 
the  occasion  of  his  coronation ,  preferred  them  to  the  fleurs-de-lys  as 
insignia  of  the  imperial  dignity.  A  clasp  for  fastening  a  cloak  is  still  in 
the  possession  of  the  church  and  is  exhibited  in  the  sacristy,  along  with 
two  silver  cups  and  two  reliquaries  of  the  14th  century. 

Near  the  church  of  St.  Brice  are  a  few  mediaeval  houses,  one 
known  as  the  MaisonRomaine.  Another  ancient  edifice  is  the  Tour 
de  Henri  VIII.,  with  two  vaulted  apartments,  one  above  the  other.  — 
The  new  Palais  de  Justice  and  the  Theatre  also  deserve  mention. 

The  old  bridge  called  Pont  des  Trous  (PL  C,  1),  which  crosses 
the  Schelde  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town  in  three  pointed  arches, 
was  built  in  1290.  Both  ends  are  defended  by  strong  towers.  Near 
the  bridge  is  the  Square  Du  Mortier,  which  is  embellished  with  a 
marble  statue  of  B.  Du  Mortier  (b.  at  Tournai  in  1797;  d.  1878), 
the  Belgian  statesman  and  naturalist,  executed  by  Fraikin  and 
erected  in  1883. 

Mont  St.  Aubert  (p.  5S),  sometimes  called  Ste.  TriniU  from  the  small 
church  of  that  name  on  the  top,  commands  a  very  extensive  panorama, 
although  only  425  ft.  in  height,  being  the  only  eminence  in  the  district, 
and  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  summit  is  about  4  M.  distant.  Car- 
riage in  3/4  hr.  (3-4  fr.).  —  The  Fierre  Brntie/iauU,  a  huge  monolith  near 
Jlollain.  is  possibly  Druidical. 

10.  From  Ghent  to  Antwerp. 

a.  State  Railway  viS.  Dendermonde  and  Puers. 

43  M.  Eailwat  in  11/2-21/4  hrs.  (fares  5fr.  15,  3  fr.  90,  2  fr.  60  C; 
express  6  fr.  55,  4  fr.  90,  3  fr.  30  c.) 

Ghent,  see  p.  34.  —  The  line  crosses  the  Schelde.  2Vo  M. 
Meirelbeke.    On  the  other  side  of  the  Schelde  is  the  quaint  chateau 


62     Route  10.  DENDERMONDE.  From  Ghent 

of  Laeme,  with  towers  dating  from  the  12t]i  century.  4  M.  Melle, 
the  junction  of  the  line  to  Charleroi  and  Braine-le-Comte  (R.  20). 
6  M.  Quatrecht.  The  train  follows  the  winding  course  of  the 
Schelde.  8  M.  Wetteren.  At  (10  M.")  Schellehelle  our  line  diverges 
from  that  to  Brussels  via  Alost  (R.  3).  I2V2  M.  Wichelen ;  14  M. 
Schoonaerde ;  16  M.  Audeghem,  beyond  which  the  train  crosses  the 
Dendre. 

18  M.  Dendermonde,  Fr.  Termonde  (Plat  d'Ktain;  Aigle; 
Demi-Lune),  a  small  fortified  town  (8300  inhab.)  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Dendre  and  Schelde.  Louis  XIV.  besieged  this  place  in  1667, 
but  was  compelled  to  retreat,  as  the  besieged,  by  opening  certain 
sluices,  laid  the  whole  district  under  water.  The  Emp.  Joseph  II, 
caused  the  fortifications  to  be  dismantled  in  1784,  but  they  were 
reconstructed  in  1822.  The  old  church  of  Notre  Dame  possesses 
two  good  pictures  by  Van  Dyck,  a  Crucifixion,  and  Adoration  of 
the  Shepherds ;  also  a  work  by  De  Crayer,  and  a  Romanesque  font 
of  the  12th  century.  The  Hotel  de  Ville,  which  was  originally  the 
cloth-hall,  dates,  with  its  belfry,  from  the  14th  century.  Adjacent 
is  the  Grande  Garde^  or  guard-house,  with  an  octagonal  tower  and 
a  rococo  portico  of  the  18th  century, 

FiiOM  Dendermonde  to  St.  Nicolas,  via  Ilamme^  13  M.,  by  railway 
in  45  min.  (see  p.  63);  to  Lokeken,  9M.,  in  V2  tr.  (see  p.  63);  to  Alost, 
7V2  M. ,  in  25  min.  (p.  10);  and  to  Brussels,  20  M.  ,  via  Opicyck  (p.  11) 
and  Jette  (p.  11),  in  ^Vl  br. 

At  (21  M,)  Baesrode  the  line  to  Malines  diverges  (see  p.  135). 
24  M.  St.  Amans-lez-Puers ;  27  M.  Puers.,  where  our  line  crosses 
that  from  Terneuzen  to  Malines  (p.  135).  The  train  now  traverses 
a  marshy  district  and  crosses  the  Rupel,  which  is  formed  about 
21/2  M.  to  the  E.  by  the  union  of  the  Dyle  and  the  Nethe. 

31  M.  Boom,  a  town  with  14,000  inhab.  and  numerous  brick- 
kilns, where  our  liue  crosses  the  line  from  Alost  to  Antwerp  (see 
p.  11);  33 '/oM.  Reeth.  —  36  M.  Contich,  and  thence  to  Antwerp,  see 
p.  135. 

b.  Waesland  Railway. 

,  31  M.  Railwat  in  1V4-2  hrs.,  including  the  crossing  of  the  Schelde  at 
Antwerp  (fares  41/2,  3,  or  2  fr.).  Carriages  bad.  This  is  the  direct  route. 
Travellers  from  Ostend  or  Bruges  intending  to  take  this  route,  book  to  Ghent 
only,  where  they  take  a  fresh  ticket  at  the  station  of  the  Waesland  line, 
1  M.  from  that  of  the  state-railway. 

The  train  starts  from  the  Station  d''Anvers.  Immediately  on  the 
right  is  the  new  Beguinage  (p.  47),  This  line  traverses  the  Waes- 
land, or  Pays  de  Waes,  one  of  the  most  populous  (about  700  pers. 
to  the  sq,  M.),  highly-cultivated,  and  productive  districts  in  Europe, 
During  the  civil  wars  in  Flanders,  the  Waesland  was  a  sterile  moor, 
but  at  the  present  day  every  square  yard  is  utilised.  The  train  tra- 
verses arable  land,  pastures,  gardens,  woods,  and  plantations  in 
rapid  succession,  while  comfortable  farm-houses  and  thriving  vil- 
lages are  seen  at  intervals.  It  is  said  that  the  attention  usually  de- 
voted to  a  garden  or  a  flower-bed  is  here  given  to  every  field  ;  for  the 


to  Antwerp.  ST.  NICOLAS.  10.  Route.     63 

natural  soil,  being  little  better  than  sand,  requires  to  be  artificially 
covered  with  garden-soil.  The  agriculture  of  this  tract  is  therefore 
worthy  of  the  notice  of  farmers.  In  other  respects  the  country  is 
uninteresting. 

4  M.  Loochristy,  with  an  old  chateau;  7  M.  Beirvelde,  with  the 
fine  modern  Tudor  chateau  of  the  Countess  de  Kerchove  de  Den- 
terghem.  —  12  M.  Lokeren  (Hotel  du  Miroir,  in  the  Grand'  Place; 
Hotel  des  Stations)  is  a  manufacturing  town  with  17, 500 inhabitants. 
The  Church  of  St.  Lawrence  contains  some  ancient  and  modern  works 
of  art,  and  a  famous  pulpit  by  Verhaghen  (1736).  Extensive 
bleaching -grounds  in  the  vicinity.  Lokeren  is  the  junction  of  the 
lines  to  Dendermonde  and  Alost  (see  p.  62),  and  to  Selzaete  (p.  10], 
—  151/2  M.  Mille-Pommes . 

191/2  M.  St.  Nicolas  (Quatre  Sceaux,  in  the  market,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  IV2-2,  B.  1,  D.  incl.  wine  31/2  fr.;  Miroir),  a  pleasant -looking 
town  with  27,600  inhab.  ,  is  the  busiest  manufacturing  place 
in  the  Waesland.  In  the  market-place,  1/2  ^-  from  the  station, 
are  situated  the  new  Hotel  de  Ville ,  a  handsome  building  in  the 
Flemish  Gothic  style ,  containing  a  collection  of  antiquities  from 
the  Waesland,  and  several  mediaeval  dwelling-houses.  The  Church 
of  St.  Nicolas  was  completed  in  1696.  The  church  of  Notre  Dame, 
built  by  Overstraeten  in  1844,  contains  well-executed  mural  paint- 
ings by  Guffens  and  Swerts,  the  first  attempts  at  frescoes  in 
Belgium  (p.  79).  —  A  branch-line  runs  from  St.  Nicolas  to  Hamme 
and  Dendermonde  (p.  62).  Near  St.  Nicolas  the  train  crosses  the 
Malines  and  Terneuzen  railway  (p.  135). 

22  M.  Nieukerken.  251/2  M.  Beveren ,  a  wealthy  village  with 
7000  inhab.  and  an  interesting  church,  with  a  tomb  of  1540,  is  not- 
ed for  its  lace.  281/0  M.  Zwyndrecht,  where  the  train  passes  the 
outlying  fort  of  that  name  on  the  right  and  a  rampart  extending  to 
Fort  Ste.  Marie  on  the  left.  At  Vlaamsch-Hoofd  or  Tete  de  Flandre, 
the  tete-de-pont  of  Antwerp,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Schelde,  a 
steam  ferry-boat  awaits  the  arrival  of  the  train  (p.  136). 

During  the  Siege  of  Antwerp  (1832)  the  Dutch  succeeded  in  cutting 
through  the  embankment  above  Tete-de-FIandre,  in  consequence  of  which 
the  entire  surrounding  district,  lying  considerably  below  high-water  mark, 
was  laid  under  water  to  a  depth  of  4ft.,  and  remained  so  for  three  years. 
Twelve  Dutch  gunboats  cruised  over  the  fields  and  canals,  cutting  off  all 
communication  with  the  city  in  this  direction.  The  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide  covered  a  vast  area  with  sand;  and  the  once  productive  soil,  becom- 
ing saturated  with  salt-water,  was  converted  into  a  dreary  waste.  Those 
parts  from  which  the  water  was  not  thoroughly  drained  became  un- 
healthy swamps,  a  disastrous  result  of  the  war  felt  most  keenly  in  the 
environs  of  the  city,  where  land  was  of  great  value.  Enormous  sums 
were  expended  on  the  work  of  restoration-,  the  repair  of  the  embank- 
ment alone  cost  2  million  francs.  Almost  every  trace  of  the  calamity  is 
now  happily  obliterated. 

31  M.  Antwerp,  see  p.  136. 


64 


11.  From  London  to  Brussels  via  Calais. 


Vid  Dover  and  Calais  Brussels  is  reached  in  8V4-9V2  hrs. ;  sea- 
passage  11/2-2  hrs.  (fares  21.  13s.  and  2l.).  Luggage  registered  at  London 
is  not  examined  till  the  traveller  arrives  at  Brussels.  —  [From  London  to 
Brussels  viaDover  and  Ostend  11.  Ids.  Gd.,il.  ds.andlGs.  Qd.  —  Comp.  RR.  1,  3. 

—  Brussels  may  also  be  reached  from  London  via  Antwerp  by  tlie  Gen.  Steam 
Nav.  Co.'s  steamers  (fares  16s.,  lis.)  or  the  'Baron  Osy'  (fares  20s.,  12s.) 
twice  or  thrice  weekly,  direct  from  London  to  Antwerp ;  or  by  the  Great 
Eastern  Rail.  Co.'s  steamers  six  times  weekly  from  Harwich.] 

Calais  (Terminus  Jlotel^  at  tlie  Gare  Maritime;  H.  de  la  Gare 
Centrale,  at  tlve  Central  Station;  Hotel  Meurice,  Sauvage,  Rue  de 
Guise  ;  Dessin,  Kue  Neuve;  English  Church,  Rue  tlu  Moulin-BruM), 
a  fortified  town  with  58,710  inhab.  (including  St.  Pierre-les-Calais), 
has  few  attractions.  The  Harbour,  the  entrance  to  which  is  between 
two  piers,  has  of  late  years  been  considerably  deepened,  and  works 
are  still  in  progress.  There  is  a  large  new  tidal-harbour  with  hand- 
some stone  quays,  the  N.  side  of  which  is  set  apart  for  the  Dover 
mail  and  passenger  steamers.  Here  is  the  new  Gare  Maritime,  with 
the  Terminus  Hotel  on  the  upper  floor.  About260,000  travellers  pass 
through  the  town  annually.  Calais  contains  about  1500  English 
residents,  chiefly  engaged  in  its  extensive  lace-manufactories.  Sec 
Baedeker's  Northern  France. 

26  M.  St.  Omer  (Hotel  de  la  Porte  d'Or  et  d' Angleterre ;  Hotel 
de  France),  the  first  important  station ,  is  a  fortified  town  with 
21,266  inhab.  The  Cathedral  is  a  fine  structure  in  the  transitional 
style.  The  English  Roman  Catholic  Seminary  here,  at  which  O'Connell 
was  educated,  has  been  abandoned.  A  number  of  English  families 
reside  at  St.  Omer  for  purposes  of  retrenchment  and  education.  See 
Baedeker  s  Northern  France. 

38  M.  Hazebrouck  is  the  junction  of  this  line  with  the  railways 
N.  to  Dunkirk,  N.W.  to  Ypres  (p.  26),  and  S.  to  Amiens  and  Paris. 

66  M.  Lille.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  de  l'Eueope  (PI.  a;  E,  3),  Rue  Basse 
30-82;  Hotel  de  Fkance  (PI.  b;  E,  3),  Rue  Esquermoise  77;  Hotel  de 
Flandee  et  d'Angleterre  (PI.  c;  F,  8),  Place  de  la  Gare;  Grand  Hotel 
DE  Lton  (PI.  d;  F,  4),  Grand  Hotel  de  Lille  (PI.  e;  F,  3),  in  the  Rue 
de  la  Gare;  Singe  d'Or,  Place  du  Theatre  36-38  (PI.  F,3).  Rooms  may  also 
be  obtained  at  the  station  (dependance  of  the  Hotel  de  TEurope ;  dear). 

Restaurants.  Grand  Cafi,  Rue  de  la  Gare  2;  Bivoir,  Rue  du  Vieux- 
Jlarchc-aux-Poulets  15;  Di&iri,  to  the  right  of  the  theatre,  opposite  the 
Rue  de  la  Gare,  lirst  floor. 

Cafes.  Grand  Oifi,  see  above;  Richard,  in  the  Hotel  de  Lyon,  see 
above;  Cafe  du  Grand  H6tel,  to  the  right  of  the  Hotel  de  Lille;  Bellevue^ 
in  the  Grande  Place;  Cafi  Continental,  Cafe  du  Boulevard,  corner  of  the 
Rue  Natiunale  and  Boulevard  de  la  Liberie.  —  Brasserie  Alsacienne,  in 
the  Grande  Place. 

Cabs:    per  drive  V-iiir.,  per  hr.  I3/4  fr.,  each  succeeding  hr.  II/2  fr. 

Tramways  traverse  all  the  principal  streets  (fares  5-15  c.  per  'section'). 

—  Steam  Tramicay  to  Roubaix  (p.  57);  fares  75  or  50c.,  return  1  fr.  10  or  80  c. 

Post  Office  (PI.  E,4),  Boulevard  de  la  Liberte,  near  the  Prefecture.  — 
Telegraph  Office,  Place  de  la  Republique  (PI.  E,  5)  and  at  the  station. 

American  Consular  Agent,  M.  C.  D.  Gregoire,  Rue  Jean  Lavasseur. 

English  Church,  Rue  Watteau,  Boul.  de  la  Liberte' ;  services  at  11  and 
6,30;  chaplain,  Eev.   W.  Burnet,  M.  A.,  Rue  Jeanne  d'Arc  16. 

Ulle,  originally  I/' isiCj  Flem.  Ryssel,  the  chief  town  of  theFrench 


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LILLE.  11.  Route.     65 

Departement  da  Nord.  with  188,270  inhab.,  was  formerly  capital 
of  Flanders,  but  was  taken  by  Louis  XIY.  in  1667,  and  was  finally 
awarded  to  France  by  the  Peace  of  Utrecht  in  1713.  It  is  a  fortress 
of  the  first  class,  and  is  situated  in  a  well-irrigated  and  fertile  plain 
on  the  Deule ,  a  navigable  river  with  which  numerous  canals  are 
connected.  In  1856  the  population  numbered  78,000  souls,  but  it 
has  more  than  doubled  since  the  extension  of  the  fortifications  in 
1858.  Since  that  period  numerous  handsome  streets  and  squares 
have  sprung  up ,  particularly  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town ,  to  the 
right  of  the  station.  Lille  is  a  very  important  manufacturing  place. 
Its  staple  commodities  are  linen  and  woollen  goods ,  cotton ,  cloth, 
'Lille  thread',  machinery,  oil,  sugar,  and  chemicals. 

Leaving  the  station  (PI.  F,  3),  we  proceed  in  a  straight  direction 
to  the  Theatre  (PL  F,  3),  turn  to  the  left  through  the  Rue  des  Man- 
neliers,  passing  the  Bourse  (PI.  F,  3),  the  court  of  which  contains 
a  bronze  statue  of  Napoleon  I.  by  Lemaire(1854),  and  soon  reach  the 
Grande  Place,  a  Column  in  the  centre  of  which  commemorates  the 
gallant  defence  of  the  town  against  the  Austrians  in  1792.  On  the 
side  of  the  Place  opposite  the  Rue  des  Manneliers  rises  the  — 

Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  F,  4),  erected  since  1846  in  the  Renais- 
sance style,  and  containing  the  Bibliotheque  Communale  (open . 
daily),  a  valuable  *Picture  Gallery,  an  Ethnographical  Collection, 
and  a  *  Collection  of  Drawings,  the  last  of  which  is  the  most  im- 
portant in  France  after  that  of  the  Louvre.  The  collections  are  on 
the  second  floor,  and  are  open  to  the  public  daily,  10-5  in  summer, 
and  10-4  in  winter  (Tues.  10-12).  Entrance  on  the  left  side  of  the 
building,  where  a  staircase  ascends.  Catalogue  of  the  picture-gallery 
11/4  fr. ;  of  the  drawings  l^/^  fr. 

The  *  Picture  Gallery,  one  of  the  largest  in  France  out  of 
Paris,  embracing  about  850  works,  is  arranged  in  ten  large  rooms 
on  the  second  floor.  The  titles  of  the  pictures  and  the  names  of  the 
artists  are  attached  to  each  work.    We  turn  to  the  left. 

Room  I.  !No.  22.  Canaletto,  View  in  Venice;  494.  Saracino,  Flight  into 
Egypt;  *1T9.  G.  Dughet,  surnamed  Poussin,  Scene  in  the  Campagna-,  518. 
Spada,  Temptation  of  .Joseph;  210.  School  of  Botticelli,  Madonna  and  Child; 
440.  Guido.  Sibyl;  *23.S.  Dom.  Ghirlandajo,  Madonna  and  Child,  a  finely 
executed  school-piece ;  310.  Lanfranco,  St.  Gregory ;  536.  Tiarini,  Rinaldo 
and  Armida;  423.  Leandro  Basxano,  Christ  expelling  the  money-changers; 
831.  Solimena,  Apotheosis  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas;  545.  Andrea  del  Sarto, 
'Madonna  and  Child  ,  with  St.  .John  and  three  angels ;  99.  Paolo  Veronese, 
Christ  at  the  Sepulchre ;  *114.  Piazzetfa  (Venice,  d.  1754),  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin:  546.  Andrea  del  Sarto.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  St.  .John;  "649. 
L.  Zus/ris  (of  Amsterdam,  a  pupil  of  Titian),  Judith;  832.  Theotocopuli,  -il 
Greco\  St.  Francis;  117.  Cignaroli  (Verona,  d.  1770),  Death  of  Rachel;  no 
numlier,  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  John;  Bassano, 
422.  Marriage  at  Cana,  420.  Crown  of  Thorns;  822.  Ribera,  St.  Jerome; 
6.50.  Zustris ,  Christ  appearing  to  Mary  Magdalen ;  500.  Schiavone ,  Esther 
before  Ahasuerus ;  57.  Bonifazio,  St.  Peter;  6.  Amerighi,  St.  John;  421.  Bas- 
sano, Interior;  450.  Tintoretto,  Old  man;  Paolo  Veronese,  *100.  Eloquence, 
*98.  Slartyrdom  of  St.  George,  *10l.  Science;  424.  L.  Bassano,  Portrait.  _ 

Room  II.  Xo.  41.  Van  Bockhorts ,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Maurice  and  his 
companions;  /.  Jordaens,  293.  Prodigal  Son,  294.  Two  Apostles  (two  others 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  5 


66     Route  11.  LILLE.  From  London 

a  little  farther  on)-,  48S.  Early  Copy  of  Raphael^  Baptism  of  Constantine 
the  Great;  *526.  Tenters  the  Younger^  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony;  •143. 
G.  de  Crai/er.  Martvrs  buried  alive;  *40B.  Palamedes .  Conversation-piece; 
Van  Duck\  '196.  3Iarie  de  Mc^dicis,  *195.  Portrait,  *193.  Crucifixion;  772. 
5raA«n>)«r5r,  Lovers ;  "'398.  /.  van  Oost  the  Elder.  Portrait;  *194.  Van  Dyck, 
Miracle  of  St.  Anthony  of  Padua  (a  hungry  mule  kneels  before  the  host, 
neglecting  the  oats  placed  near  him);  *2'J2.  Jordaena,  Christ  and  the 
Pharisees;  *257.  Fr.  JIals,  Girl  laughing-,  erroneously  called  Uille  Bobbe; 
*278.  Honthorst^  Triumph  of  Silenus;  Rnbens,  *i63.  St.  Bonaventura,  -464. 
Ecstasy  of  8t.  Francis  ;  110.  Van  Keulen  the  Elder ^  Portrait;  76B.  BoeJ^ 
Allegoi-v  of  worldly  vanities;  .571.  De  Fries  the.  Younger,  Portrait;  558. 
Victor,  "Court-yard  of  a  castle;  26S.  Van  der  Heist.  Portrait;  197.  Van  Dyck, 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin;  *482.  Ryckaert ,  Mussel-seller;  814.  JVeiichdtel, 
surnamed  Lucidel,  J.  Xeudorfer,  the  mathematician,  and  his  son;  School 
of  Rubens.,  46(>,  4f)5,  Providence  and  Abundance,  from  the  decorations  of  a 
triumphal  arch;  543.  Van  Utrecht.,  Cock-ficrht;  *796.  Holbein  the  Younger, 
His  wife  and  children,  old  copy  of  the  original  in  Bale  Museum,  here  with 
the  title  'Caritas',  and  the  inscription:  'Die  Liebe  zu  Gott  heisst  Charitas, 
wer  Liebe  hatt  der  tragtt  kein  Hass'  (Love  toward  God  is  called  Charity; 
he  who  has  love  bears  no  hate);  *460.  Rubens.,  Descent  from  the  Cross, 
formerly  an  altarpiece  in  the  convent  of  the  Capuchins;  no  number,  Jor- 
daens,  Huntsman  and  hounds;  267.  Earth,  van  der  Heist,  Portrait;  no  num- 
ber. Unknown  Artist,  Portrait  of  a  man;  Rubens,  461.  Death  of  Mary  Mag- 
dalen, *462.  St.  Francis  and  the  Madonna. 

Room  III.  Round  this  room,  next  the  ground,  are  hung  27  portrait- 
studies  by  Boilly  (d.  1874),  for  his  picture  of  Isabey'a  studio  (ISIHJ),  and 
portraits  by  Am.  de  Vuez  (d.  1720).  Other  works  by  the  latter  artist,  who 
,«pent  much  of  his  life  at  Lille,  are  also  hung  in  this  room.  Xo.  142.  Avt. 
Corjpel,  Athalide  and  Roxane  (from  Racine's  'Bajazet');  no  number,  Fyt,  StiU- 
life;  148.  Cuyp,  Portrait:  475.  Ruysdael,  Landscape;  113.  Ph.  de  Champaigne, 
The  Good  Shepherd;  232.  Claude  Lorrain,  Sea-piece;  808.  ^faas,  Portrait; 
no  number.  Both,  Landscape;  G.  de  Crayer,  The  Messiah;  231.  Claude  Lor- 
rain, C'ampo  Vaccino  at  Rome;  806.  Lievens  the  Elder,  Salome;  144,  above 
the  entrance  to  the  Mus^e  Wicar  (see  p.  67),  O.  de  Crayer,  The  Mira- 
culous Draught  of  Fishes  ;  629.  Louis  Watteau,  Episode  of  the  siege  of  Lille; 
352.  Mignard,  Fortune;  626.  Louis  Watteau,  Confederation  of  the  Depart- 
ments of  Xord,  Somme,  and  Pas  de  Calais,  in  1790;  879.  /.  J.  Weerts, 
Legend  of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi;  428.  Poussin,  The  infant  Moses;  537.  Til- 
borgh  the  Younger,  Domestic  scene.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  room:  755. 
Sanson,  Susanna,  a  statue  in  marble.  The  side -doors  of  this  and  the 
succeeding  hall  lead  to  the  Collection  of  Drawings  (p.  67). 

Room  IV.  Louis  and  Francois  Watteau,  whose  works  occur  so  often  in 
this  room,  were  the  nephew  and  grand-nephew  of  the  celebrated  Antoine 
Watteau  of  Valenciennes ,  of  whom,  however,  the  gallery  po.'^sesses  no 
authentic  specimen ;  their  works  are  far  inferior  to  those  of  their  kinsman. 
*No.  532.  Tenters  the  Elder,  Dives  in  Hell;  •436.  /.  van  Ravesteyn,  Por- 
trait; 359.  Molenaer,  Scene  during  the  Carnival;  771.  Both,  Landscape; 
434.  Al.  de  Pujol,  Joseph  in  prison  (1822);  11,  12,  Jacques  d''Artois,  Land- 
scapes :  689.  Unknown  Artist,  Portrait ;  •ISS.  J.  L.  David,  Belisarius  asking 
alms  (1785);  Fr.  Watteau,  618.  The  'Braderie'  (sale  of  old  effects),  620. 
Festival  in  the  Colosseum;  625.  L.  Watteau.  View  of  Lille;  299.  J.  Jouve- 
net.  Raising  of  Lazarus;  ^437  Van  Ravesteyn,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  531. 
Teniers  the  Elder,  Incantation;  111.  Phil,  de  Champaigne,  Annunciation. 

Room  V.  No.  139.  Courbet,  Evening  at  Ornans ;  *157.  Eug.  Delacroix, 
Medea;  215.  Ch.  Fortin,  'Chouans'  {i.e.  Royalists  of  Brittany);  87.  Jules 
Breton,  Erection  of  a  'Mont  de  Calvaire';  135.  Corot,  Ancient  festival;  839. 
Laugie,  Servant  of  the  poor;  540.  Troyon,  Landscape;  272.  Hockert  (Swedish 
painter).  Preaching;  in  Lapland:  1*^2.  Duran  (of  Lille),  Scene  of  Italian 
peasant-life  (monks  with  the  bodv  of  a  murdered  man). 

Room  VI.  Xo.  802.  Le  A^'a/n," The  grandmother's  room;  114.  Chardin, 
The  learned  ape;  174.  Donvi,  Portrait  of  the  artist;  no  number,  Van  der 
Heist  (?),  Family-portraits. 

Room  VII.    No.  89.  'Velvet'  Brueghel,   Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt; 


to  Brussels.  LILLE.  //.  Route.     67 

557.  Versteegh,  Interior;  795.  Van  der  Heist.,  Venus;  564.  Vinckehoons.,  Con- 
cert of  angels;  67.  Bottlanger,  Corpus  Chri?ti  Procession  in  Rome;  842. 
Sienese  School,  St.  Catharine  of  Siena;  794  bis.  ffeeimkerck.  Allegory;  812. 
ifafsi/s,  Tarquin  and  Lucretia;  780.  Crcmach  the  Elder ^  Mocking  of  Christ. 

KooM  VIII,  to  the  left  of  the  preceding.  Xo.  847.  Italian  School,  Ma- 
donna and  Child;  no  number,  Bellegambe,  The  Bath  of  the  Blood  of  Christ, 
triptych;  *84lj.  Italian  School,  Large  painiing  in  several  compartments,  re- 
presenting scenes  from  the  lives  of  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  etc.;  '775. 
Brueghel  the  Elder,  John  the  Baptist  preaching;  *855.  Westphalian  School, 
Adoration  of  the  Magi  ,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  (shatters  of  a  trip- 
tych); *o23.  Stuerbouts  (?),  The  fairy-well;  17.  Bart,  di  Gentile  da  Urbino, 
Madonna  and  Child;  91.  P.  Bruegbd  the  Elder,  Paying  tithes;  854.  West- 
phalian School,  Annunciation  (shutters  of  a  triptych);  147.  Crivelli,  Ma- 
donna and  Child  ;  876.  Israel  van  Meckenem,  Assumption;  no  number,  Belle- 
gambe.  The  Trinity  (triptych) ;  Uvknown  Artist,  Annunciation,  Nativity,  and 
3Iassacre  of  the  Innocents  (triptych);  764.  H.  met  de  Bles ,  surnamed  Ci- 
vetta.  Landscape,  with  the  Flight  into  Egypt;  400.  Van  Orley,  Adoration 
of  the  3Iagi  (triptych).  —  In  the  middle:  Bit.  Stuerbouts,  Two  shutters  of 
a  triptych.  —  The  Archaeological  Museum  (see  p.  68)  is  entered  from 
this  room. 

Room  IX.  Xo.  538.  Van  Tilborgh  the  Elder,  Village-festival ;  511.  Snyders, 
Boar-hunt;  no  number,  Teniers  the  Younger,  The  story-teller;  508.  Sibe- 
reehts.  The  ford;  18.  £a«(fry.  Punishment  of  a  fallen  Vestal;  Ch.  L.  Mailer, 
376.  Haidee  (from  Byrons  'Dr.n  .luan"),  377.  The  ruined  gamester;  151.  Dau- 
bigny.  Sunrise;  346.  Merson,  The  vision;  788.  Fictoor,  Portrait;  836.  Anf. 
Wafteau  (?),  Concert;  19S.  Van  Dyck  (?).  Madonna  and  donor;  323.  Lehmann, 
Sixtus  V.  blessing  the  Pontine  Marshes;  (58.  Giov.  da  Bologna,  Casting 
lots  for  the  vesture  of  Christ;  316.  Lebrun,  Hercules  chastising  Cacus ; 
807.  Lievens,  Old  man  at  prayer;  85.  Em.  Breton,  Pond;  1S9.  Amaury  Duval, 
Birth  of  Venus;  186.  Duran.  Portrait;  342.  Comevre,  Samson  and  Delilah; 
no  number,  Merson,  'Le  loup  d"Agubl>io\  the  wolf  converted  by  St.  Francis 
of  As.-isi  in  the  streets  of  Gubbio;  30.  Berthilemy,  Wreck  of  the  'Borys- 
thene'  in  1865;  798.  /.  Jordaent,  Isaac  blessing  Jacob.  —  Rooms  X.  and  XI. 
are  devoted  to  the  Muse'e  Moillet  (see  below). 

RooJi  XII,  beyond  the  Muse'e  Moillet,  is  occupied  by  paintings  be- 
queathed by  A.  Leleux  in  1873.  —  Xo.  644.  Ph.  Wouverman,  Hunters 
resting;  533.  Terburg,  Lady  of  rank;  73.  Brakenburg,  After  marriage;  297. 
Jordaens,  Susanna :  476.  /.  Ruysdael,  Landscape ;  248.  Greuze,  Psyche  crown- 
ing Cupid;  25"^.  Dirk  Hals,  Backgammon-players;  558.  Teniers  the  Younger, 
Landscape;  481.  Sal.  Ruysdael,  Landscape;  696.  German  School,  Crucifixion 
(triptych);  351.  W.  van  Mieris ,  Drummer;  520.  Jan  Sfeen.  Tavern-scene; 
386.  Van  der  Neer,  Landscape:  635.  Van  der  Werff,  The  happy  household; 
72,  Brakenburg,  The  merrv  meal;  84.  Van  Brekelenkamp,  Lady  and  gentle- 
man (1662);  645.  TFtnan^i, "Landscape;  519.  Jan  Steen,  Fiddler;  300.  Th.  de 
Keyser,  Family-portraits;  296.  Jordaent,  Twelfth  Xight ;  480.  Sal.  Ruysdael, 
Landscape;  2('6.  Flemish  School,  Holy  F;mily.  —  In  the  middle:  Allar, 
Temptation  of  Eve  (marble;  1879). 

The  MrsEE  Moillet,  in  Rooms  X.  and  XI.,  is  an  ethnographi- 
cal collection  of  considerable  value  ,  including  costumes,  weapons, 
tools,  etc.  The  latter  room  also  contains  Coins,  some  ancient  Oobe- 
lins  Tapestry,  and  a  few  medieval  Sculptures. 

From  RoomllL  we  enter  the  *Musee  Wicar,  a  collection  of  up- 
wards of  1400  drawings  by  the  most  celebrated  masters,  chiefly  of 
the  Italian  school,  formed  by  the  painter  J.  B.  Wicar  (b.  at  Lille  in 
1762,  d.  at  Rome  in  1834),  and  bequeathed  by  him  to  his  native  city. 

The  collection  is  arranged  in  school',  the  masters  of  each  being  placed 
in  accordance  with  the  dates  of  their  birth,  and  their  names  being  in  most 
cases  inscribed  on  the  frames.  Beside  the  most  important  sketches  are 
placed  engravings  from  the  corresponding  pictures,  affording  an  opportunity 
for   most   instructive   comparisons.     This    collection;  is   open   at   the  same 

5* 


68     Route  11.  LILLE.  From  London 

hours  as  the  picture-gallery.  Besides  dra\vin;is  by  Andrea  chl  Sarto,  An- 
nibale  Carracci,  Correggio ,  Carlo  Bold.,  Giolto,  Leonardo  da  Vinci.  Vero- 
nese, Cranach,  Holbein.,  Dilrer.,  and  many  other  masters  ,  the  collection  in- 
cludes 8  by  Titian^  196  by  Michael  Angela  (chiefly  architectural  designs),  and 
&i  ascribed  to  Raphael.  In  the  Passage,  in  a  niche  to  the  left,  is  a  famous 
*'Head  of  a  girl,  in  wax,  long  tascribed  to  Raphael,  but  now  recognised  as 
ancient,  and  probably  found  in  a  Eoman  tomb.  A  few  antiquities ,  some 
enamels,  and  a  terracotta  head  by  Donatello  are  also  exhibited  here. 

A  staircase  (not  always  open)  adjoining  Room  IX.  ascends  to  an  old 
chapel,  now  transformed  into  an  Archaeological  Museum.,  and  embellished 
with  mural  paintings  by  A.  de   Vuez. 

Leaving  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  we  now  cross  the  large  Place  in  an 
ohlique  direction  to  the  Rue  des  D^ris-St.  Etienne  in  the  opposite 
corner,  and  proceed  hy  this  street,  the  Rue  des  Pretres ,  the  Rue 
Basse  (right),  and  the  Rue  du  Cirque  (first  to  the  left")  to  Notre  Dame- 
de-la- Treille  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  a  church  in  the  style  of  the  13th  cent., 
designed  by  the  London  architects  H.  Glutton  and  W.  Burges,  and 
hegun  in  1855.  The  building  was  planned  on  so  ambitious  a  scale 
that  little  has  been  completed.  —  The  Rue  Basse  leads  hence  to 
the  Rue  Esquermoise  (PI.  E,  3),  one  of  the  principal  streets  of  the 
old  town,  the  appearance  of  which  has  been  much  altered  by  the 
construction  of  the  wide  Rue  Thiers.  —  The  Gothic  church  of  Ste. 
Catharine(F\.  E,  3)  contains  a  high-altarpiece  by  Rubens,  represent- 
ing the  saint's  martyrdom. —  The  lusindsome  Boulevard  de  la  Liberie 
(PI.  D,  E,  F,  4,  5}  forms  the  boundary  between  the  old  town  and 
the  new  quarters  built  in  the  modern  Parisian  style.  In  the  Place 
de  la  Republique  rises  the  spacious  new  Prefecture  (PI.  E,  4,  5). 

—  The  Porte  de  Paris  (PI.  F,  G,  5),  belonging  to  the  old  fortifica- 
tions, but  spared  on  their  removal,  was  built  in  1682  in  the  form 
of  a  triumphal  arch  in  honour  of  Louis  XIV.  —  The  church  of  *St. 
Maurice  (PI.  F,  4),  near  the  Grande  Place  and  the  railway-station, 
dates  from  the  13th  century. 

For  a  more  detailed  account  of  Lille,  see  Baedeker's  Northern 
France. 

From  Lille  to  Brussels  (68  M.,  in  2^/^-3^/c)  hrs. ;  fares  8  fr. 
30,  6  fr.  25,  4  fr.  15c.l  About  4  M.  to  the  S.E."of  (4  M.)  Ascq  is 
situated  the  village  of  Bouvines,  where  Emp.  Otho  IV.  was  defeated 
by  Philip  Augustus  of  France  in  1214.  51/2  M.  Baisieux  is  the 
last  French,  and  (11  M.)  Blandain  the  first  Belgian  station,  at 
each  of  which  there  is  a  custom-house.    14  M.  Froyenne. 

16  M.  Tournai,  see  p.  58.  Thence  to  Courtrai  (3/4  hr.),  see  R.  8. 

From  Tournai  to  Mons  ,  via  Blaton,  3OV2  M. ,  railway  in  li^-lV'J  hr. 
(fares  3  fr.  75,  2  fr.  80,  1  fr.  90  c).     Route  via  Leuze  (29'M.),   see  p.  55. 

—  Near  Vaulx  are  the  interesting  ruins  of  the  so-called  Chateau  de  Cesar. 
Aboiit  2^/2  M.  from  Antoing  lies  Fontenoy,  where  Marshal  Saxe  gained  a 
great  victory  over  the  Austrians  and  British  under  the  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land in  1745.  The  old  Gothic  chateau  is  the  seat  of  the  Dowager  Princess 
of  Ligne.  There  are  numerous  lime-pits  and  lime-kilns  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. —  The  other  stations  are  Maubray.,  Callenelle,  Pfrmoelz  (branch  to 
Valenciennes),  Blaton  (where  tlic  line  from  Leuze  to  Mons  is  rejoined; 
branch    to   Bernissart) ,    Harchies ,    Pommeroeul ,    La    Harnaide    (local    line 


to  Brussels.  ATH.  11.  Route.     69 

via  Eautrage  to  St.  Ghislain,  see  below),  Boussu-Haine.  St.  Ghislain  (p.  55), 
Quaregnon-Wasinuel,  and  Jemappes.  —  Mons,  see  p.  17b. 

Beyond  Tournai  the  undulating  and  well-cultivated  province  of 
Hainault  is  traversed,  Mont  St.  Aubert  (p.  61}  long  remains  con- 
spicuous to  the  left.  201/2  ^i-  Havinnes ;  24^2  M.  Barry-Maulde. 
28  M.  Leuze ,  a  small  stocking-manufacturing  town  on  the  TJendre, 
the  junction  of  the  Ghent-Oudenaarde-Leuze-Blaton  line  (p.  55^. 
30  M.  Chapelle-d-Wattines ;  32  M.  Ligne,  which  gives  a  title  to  the 
princely  family  of  that  name.  About  1  '/4  M.  from  the  station  is  the 
chateau  of  Moulbaix,  built  in  imitation  of  \N'inilsor  Castle  and  be- 
longing to  the  Marquis  de  Chasteler. 

35  M.  Ath  {Cygne;  Paon  dfOr;  Hotel  de  Bruxelles ,  near  the 
station ;  Hotel  de  V Lnivers,  opposite  the  station),  on  the  Dendre, 
formerly  a  fortress,  with  9000  inhab.,  contains  nothing  to  detain 
the  traveller.  The  Hotel  de  Ville  was  erected  in  1600.  The  church 
of  St.  Julian,  founded  in  1393 ,  was  re-erected  in  1817  after  a  fire. 
The  Tour  de  Burbant,  the  most  ancient  structure  in  the  town,  dates 
in  its  lower  part  from  1150.  A  monument  to  Eugene  Defacqz,  a 
native  of  Ath  who  played  a  prominent  part  in  the  events  of  1830, 
was  erected  in  1880.  Numerous  lime-kilns  in  the  environs.  About 
3  M.  from  Ath  are  the  interesting  ruins  of  Cambron-Casteau,  form- 
erly one  of  the  richest  abbeys  in  Belgium ;  they  belong  to  Count 
de  Val  de  Beaulieu. 

Ath  is  the  junction  for  the  line  from  Dendekleeuw  (Alost)  to  Gram- 
most,  Ath,  and  Jurbise:  34'M.,  railway  in  2  hrs.  (fares  4  fr.  20,  3  fr.  15, 
2  fr.  10  c).  —  Denderleeuw .,  see  p.  11.  The  train  ascends  the  left  bank 
of  the  Bender  or  Dendre.  2V2  M.  Okeghem.  Then  (4'/2M.)  Ninove,  an  old 
town  with  6400  inhab.,  the  seat,  as  early  as  the  middle  of  the  12th  cent., 
of  a  Premonstratensian  abbey,  of  which  no  trace  remains;  the  parish- 
church  contains  two  paintings  by  De  Crayer.  —  The  next  stations  are 
Santbergen,  Idegfiem ,  and  Schende'lbeke.  13  M.  Grammont,  see  p.  181.  — 
16  M.  Acren.,  the  first  place  in  Hainault;  17  M.  Lessines,  with  porphyry 
quarries,  is  the  junction  of  the  Eussilly-Renaix  line  (see  p.  70);  Fapignies; 
Rebaix.  —  25  M.  Ath,  see  above.  —  Then  Maffles.,  Mevergnies-Attres, 
Brugelette  (with  a  large  orphan -asylum  conducted  by  nuns),  Lens.,  and 
(34  M.)  Jufbise^  where  the  Brussels  and  Paris  line  is  reached  (see  p.  178). 

From  Atu  to  Blaton,  12  M.,  railway  in  40  min.  (fares  1  fr.  45,  1  fr.  10, 
70  c).  —  The  stations  are  small  and  uninteresting,  with  the  exception  of 
(7  M.)Beloeil,  a  village  with  the  celebrated  chateau  and  estate  of  the  Prince 
de  Ligne,  which  has  been  in  possession  of  the  family  upwards  of  500  years. 
Prince  Charles  Joseph  of  Ligne  (1735-1814),  the  eminent  general  and  states- 
man, gives  a  long  account  in  his  letters  of  this  estate  with  its  park  and 
gardens.  Delille,  in  his  poem  '  Les  Jardins,"  describes  Beloeil  as  '•tout  a 
la  fois  magnifique  et  champetre.^  The  chateau  contains  numerous  curiosities 
of  artistic  as  well  as  historic  interest ;  a  considerable  library,  with  many 
rare  MSS.;  admirable  pictures,  including  works  attributed  to  Diirer,  Hol- 
bein^ Van  J)t/ck^  Velazquez,  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Michael  Angela,  and  Salva- 
tor  Rosa,  and  also  specimens  of  many  modern  artists  ;  relics  (fragments 
of  the  "True  Cross'  and  the  'Crown  of  Thorns'),  and  numerous  gifts  pre- 
sented to  the  family  by  emperors  and  kings,  from  Charles  V.  to  Napoleon  I, 
Admission  to  the  chateau  is  rarely  denied  by  the  proprietor. 

Blaton  is  the  junction  for  the  lines  to  Leuze  and  Tournai  (see  p.  68), 
Piruwelz- Tournai  (see  p.  68),  and  St.   Ghislain-Mons  (p.  55). 

From  Atu  to  St.  Ghislain  (p.  55),  14  M.,  railway  in  about  I1/2  hr. 

Beyond  Ath  are  several  small  stations  at  which  the  express  does 


70     Route  11.  HAL. 

not  stop.  From  (44  M.")  Bassily  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Lessines 
(p.  69),  Ellezelles  (p.  33),  and  Rmaix  (p.  55). 

50  M.  Enghien,  the  next  important  place,  a  town  with  3900  in- 
hab.,  many  of  whom  are  occupied  in  lace-making  ('point  de  Paris'), 
is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Ghent  to  Braine-le-Comte  and 
Charleroi  (R.  20).  The  fine  *Park  of  the  Due  d'Arenherg  formerly 
contained  the  ancestral  chateau  of  the  Dues  d'Enghieu,  which  was 
destroyed  during  the  French  Revolution.  The  old  chapel,  with  its 
carved  oaken  door,  contains  a  well-preserved  triptych,  ascribed  to 
Mabuse.  Adjacent  is  a  Capuchin  Convent^  the  church  of  which  con- 
tains the  beautiful  alabaster  *Tomb  of  Guillaume  de  Croy,  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo  (d.  1521),  richly  adorned  v^ith  figures  and  or- 
naments in  the  style  of  the  early  Italian  Renaissance.  —  Steam- 
tramway  hence  to  (19V2  M.)  Cureghem  (p.  77). 

The  train  quits  the  province  of  Hainault  and  enters  Brabant. 
53  M.  Bierghes;  55  M.  Saintes;  56  M.  Brages-Bellingen. 

59  M.  Hal  (Cygne;  Trois  Fontaines;  JJnivers),  situated  on  the 
Senne  and  the  canal  of  Charleroi,  with  9000inhab.,  is  celebrated 
throughout  Belgium  as  a  resort  of  pilgrims,  on  account  of  the  mir- 
acle-working image  of  the  Virgin  in  the  church  of  *Notre  Dame,  a 
pure  Gothic  edifice,  begun  in  1341  and  consecrated  in  1409. 

The  church  possesses  numerous  costly  treasures  presented  by  Emp. 
Maximilian  I.,  Charles  V.,  Pope  Julius  II.,  Henry  VIII.  of  England,  the 
Burgundian  Dukes,  and  the  Spanish  governors.  The  *High-alfar  is  a  fine 
Renaissance  work  in  alabaster,  executed  hy  Jan  Mone  in  1533,  with  reliefs 
representing  the  seven  Sacraments,  statuettes  of  the  four  Evangelists  and 
the  four  great  Fathers  of  the  Church,  and  a  figure  of  St.  Martin  sharing 
his  cloak  with  a  beggar.  The  font,  in  bronze,  was  cast  in  1446.  A  late- 
Gothic  tabernaculum  is  also  noteworthy.  A  monument  in  black  marble, 
■with  the  figure  of  a  sleeping  child,  is  dedicated  to  the  son  of  Louis  XI., 
who  died  in  1400.  Another  chapel  contains  33  cannon-balls ,  caught  and 
rendered  harmless  by  the  robes  of  th«  wonder-working  image  during  a 
siege  of  the  town. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville,  built  in  1616,  a  slender  three-storied  brick 
building  distinguished  by  its  lofty  roof,  was  successfully  restored  a 
short  time  ago. 

From  Hal  to  Braine-le-Comte  and  Mons  (Brussels  and  Paris  railway), 
see  R.  19. 

6OY2  M.  Buysingen ;  62  M.  Loth.  The  country  traversed  is  hilly. 
The  line  runs  for  some  distance  parallel  with  the  canal  of  Charleroi. 
64  M.  Ruysbroeck  was  the  birthplace  in  the  14th  cent,  of  the  mystic 
of  that  name.  Near  (66  M.)  Forest  the  train  crosses  the  winding 
Senne,  which  waters  a  rich  pastoral  district.  The  line  intersects  the 
Boulevards  of  Brussels,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Porte  de  Hal 
(p.  113)  to  the  right,  and  soon  stops  at  the  Station  du  Midi. 

68  M.  Brussels,  see  p.  72. 


71 


Key  to  the  Plan  of  Brussels. 


1.  Abattoirs  (Slaughter-houses) 

B3,  F2 
Academic  Eoyale  des  Scien- 
ces, des  Lettres,  et  des  Beaux 
Arts E4 

2.  Bains  Leopold D4 

Bain  Royal E3 

3.  Bains  St.  Sauveur    .     .     .     .  D3 

4.  Banque  Xationale     .     .     .     .  E3 

5.  Bibliotheque  Eovale  (Eoyal 
Library)   .     .     .   " D4 

6.  Bourse'   de    Commerce    (Ex- 
change)     C3 

7.  Casernes  (Barracks)  C  1,2,  E  3,  C5 
9.  Chapelle  de  TExpiation ,   or 

Ch.  Salazar D4 

10.  Colonne  du  Congres      .     .     .  E3 

11.  Conservatoire  Royal  de  Mu- 
sique D5 

12.  Ecole  vet^rinaire       .     .     .     .  B5 

13.  Eglise  du  Beguinage      .     .     .  C2 

14.  —  St.  Boniface E6 

15.  —  Ste.  Catherine      .     .     .     .  C2 

—  Ste.  Gudule  (cathedral)    .  E8 

16.  — St.  Jacques-sur-CaudenbergE  4 

17.  —  St.  Jean  et  St-Etienne      .  D5 

18.  —  des  Je'suites     .     .     .     F2,  C4 

19.  —  St.  Joseph F4 

20.  —  Ste.  Marie  de  Schaerbeek  F 1 

21.  —  St.  Nicolas D3 

22.  —  Notre-Dame    de    Bon- 

Secours     .  C3,  4 

23. de  la  Chapelle    .    CD 4 

24. des  Victoires       .     .  D5 

25.  EntrepotRoyalfCustomHouse)Cl 
Galerie  St.  Hubert  (Passage)  D3 

—  du  Commerce D2 

—  du  Nord D2 

Halles  Centrales  (Markets)    .  C3 
Hopital  St.  Jean  (St.  John's 
Hospital) E2 

30.  Hotel    du    Gouvernement 

(Government  Offices)   CD4 

—  de  Ville  (Town  Hall)  .     .  D3 
Jardin    Botanique    (Botanic 
Garden) E2 

34.  Institut  des  Aveugles  (Blind 
Asylum) C6 

35.  Maison  du  Roi D  3 

36.  Mannikin  Fountain  .     .     .     .  C4 
Marche  Convert    or  Marche 

de  la  Madeleine  (M.  C.)     .     .  D4 


41. 


49. 


53. 


Monument  des  Martyrs     .     .  D2 

—  of  Counts  Egmont  and 
Hoorn D  5 

—  of  John  Cockerill    .     .     .  F  6 
Musee  des  Armes,  see  Porte 

de  Hal. 

Museum  of  Natural  History    G5 

—  of   Paintings    (Picture 
Gallery) D4 

Musee  Wiertz G6 

Palais  du  Due  d'Arenberg    .  D5 

—  des  Beaux- Arts    .     .     .    DE4 

—  de  Justice  (old)    .     .     .     .  D4 
(new)      .     .     .     .    C  D  5 

—  de  la  Nation  (Legislative 
Assembly) E3 

—  du    Comte    de    Flandre 
(Crown-Prince)     .     .     .    DE4 

—  des  Academies     .     .     .     .  E4 

—  Royal E4 

Prison  des  Petits-Carmes  .    DE5 

Purte  de  Hal C6 

Post  Office D2 

Station  du  Nord        .     .     .     .El 

—  du  Midi B5 

—  du  Quartier  Leopold    .     .  F5 

—  de    TAUde-Verte    (Goods 

Station)         D  1 

Statue  of  General  Belliard   .  E4 

—  of  Godfrey  of  Bouillon     .  E4 

—  of  Leopold  I F6 

—  of  Prince    Charles    of 
Lorraine,  in  the  court  of 
the  Royal  Library. 

—  of    the    Astronomer 
Qnetelet,  in  front  of  the 
Acade'mie E4 

—  of  the  Anatomist  Vesalius, 
in  the  Place  des  Barri- 
cades        F2 

Synagogue,  New D5 

Telegraph,  Central  Office      .  El 
Theatre  Royal  de  la  Monnaie  D  3 

—  des  Galeries  St.  Hubert  .  D3 

—  du  Pare E3,4 

—  Moliere E5 

Alhambra D2 

Flemish  Theatre Dl 

Cirque  Eoyal E3 

University D4 

Vauxhall E3,4 


72 


12.    Brussels.   French,  Bruxelles. 


Arrival.  There  are  three  railway-stations  at  Brussels  :  1.  Station 
i>u  IfoKD  (PI.  E,  1),  for  Ostend,  Antwerp  (and  Holland),  Louvain,  Liege, 
and  Germany.  2.  Station  du  Midi  (PI.  B,  5),  for  Charleroi,  Namur  via  Bau- 
lers,  Braine-le-Comte,  Tournai,  and  France  (entrance  by  the  ticket-office 
in  the  Rue  Fonsny).  3.  Station  du  Qoaktiku  Lfioi'OLU  or  Gare  du  Lu- 
xembourg (PI.  F,  G,  5),  for  Ottignies,  Namur,  Givet  (France),  Luxembourg, 
Bale  (and  Germany);  but  most  of  the  trains  on  this  line  also  start  from 
the  Station  du  Nord.  A  fourth  station  (PI.  C,  D,  1)  is  used  for  goods- 
traffic  only.  The  Chemin  de  Fer  de  Ceinture  connects  the  several  railway- 
lines,  and  also  carries  on  a  local  traffic.  —  Cab  with  one  horse  from  the 
station  into  the  town  1  fr. ;  trunk  15c.,  small  articles  free;  the  driver  ex- 
pects an  additional  fee.     Comp.  p.  75. 

Hotels.  Upper  ijart  of  the  Town,  near  the  park  :  *  *Bellevde  (PI.  a; 
E,  4),  Place  Royale  9,  frequented  by  royalty  and  the  noblesse,  expensive, 
R.  4-lU,  L.  1,  A.  1,  B.  2,  dej.  5,  D,  6,  pens.  15.  omn.  I1/4  fr.  j  'Hotel  de 
FLANDftE  (PI.  b;  E,  4),  Place  Royale,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  4-G,  B.  IV4,  dej.  4,  D.  5, 
pens,  from  12'/2,  omn.  I'/i  fr. ;  these  two  under  the  same  management 
(lift);  *H6tel  Mengelle  (PI.  d;  E,  2),  Rue  Rovale  103,  to  the  N.  of  the 
Colonne  du  Congres,  R.  5-10,  L.  1/2-I,  A.  1,  B.  1 '/a ,  dej.  3-4,  D.  5,  'pens.' 
in  summer  from  12,  in  winter  from  lO'/a  fr.  (lift) ;  *H6tel  de  l'Europe 
(PI.  C-,  D,  E,  4),  Place  Royale;  "Hotel  de  France  (PI.  e;  E,  8,  4),  Montagne 
du  Pafc  6,  R.  2V2-I2,  L.  1,  A.  1,  B.  IV4,  B.  5,  pens.  10-14  fr. ;  Grand 
Hotel  Britaxnique,  Place  du  Trone  3  (PI.  E,  5).  behind  the  Royal  Palace, 
R.  21/2-6,  L.  3/^,  A.  3/<,  B.  11/2,  dej.  3,  D.  5,  pens.  10-14  fr.  All  these  hotels 
are  good,  well  situated,  and  expensive.    Table  d'hote  at  5,  5.30,  or  6  p.m. 

Lower  part  0/ the  Town:  *Grand  Hotel  de  Bruxelles  (PI.  a;  C,  D,  3), 
Boulevard  Anspach,  a  large  establishment  with  about  4OO  rooms,  of  which 
those  opening  on  the  glass-roofed  court  should  be  avoided;  R.  <fc  A.  from  4, 
L.  1,  B.  IV2,  L>.  at  6  p.m.  6  fr. ;  cafe  and  restaurant  on  the  ground-floor.  — 
Hotel  de  SuSde  (PI.  h;  D,  3),  Rue  de  TEveque  29,  R.  from  3,  L.  3/^-1, 
A.  3/4,  B.  IV2,  dej.  3,  D.  41/2,  pens,  from  10,  omn.  1  fr. ;  *H6tel  de  l^Uni- 
verS  (PI.  i ;  D,  2),  Rue  Neuve  38-40  and  Boulevard  du  Nord  7,  R.  21/2-8, 
L.  3/4,  A.  1,  B.  11/2,  dej.  3,  D.  41/2,  pens,  from  10  fr.,  R.  extra;  -Hotel  de 
l'Empereur  (PI.  k;  D,  2),  Rue  Neuve  63,  R.  3-10,  A.  1,  L.  3/^,  B.  I1/2, 
dej.  3,  D.  at  5.30  p.m.  4,  pens,  from  91/2  fr.  ;  *H6tel  de  Saxe  (PI.  1;  D, 
2),  Rue  Neuve  77-79,  R.  from  31/2,  D.  4  fr. ;  -Grand  Hotel  Central  (PI. 
G,  3J,  Place  de  la  Bourse,  opposite  the  Exchange,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3-12,  B.  IV2, 
dej.  3,  D.  4,  pens,  from  10  fr.  (lift);  Hotel  de  la  Poste  (PI.  o;  D,  3),  Rue 
Fosse-aux-Loups  28,  R.  21/2-3,  L.  1,  D.  at  5.30  p.m.  31J2  fr. ;  Rocher  de 
Cancale,  Rue  Fosse'-aux-Loups  17-20  (PI.  D,  3),  R.,  L.,  4:  A.  from  3,  B.  11/4, 
D.  2-5,  pens,  from  6  fr.,  good  cuisine  (best  known  as  a  restaurant,  see 
p.  73);  Hotel  Riienaxia  (German),  Eue  Le'opold  6,  E.  2-10  (mostly  5), 
A.  3/4,  B.  11/2,  dej.  3,  D.  at  6  o'cl.  4,  pens,  from  8  fr.  —  Grand  Miroik 
(PI.  s;  D,  3).  Rue  de  la  Montagne  28,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3V2-9,  B.  I1/4,  dej.  21/2, 
I).  3,  pens.  lO,  omn.  1  fr.  ;  Hotel  du  Grand  Caf^,  Rue  des  Eperonniers 
24-26  (PI.  D,  3,  4) ;  '^Hotel  de  Vienne  (PI.  u ;  D,  3),  Rue  de  la  Fourche  24-26, 
R.  21/2-3,  B.  11/4,  D.  3  fr.  —  *HOtel  de  Bordeaux,  Rue  du  Midi  135  fPl.  C, 
4),  R.,  L.,  <fe  A.  from  3,  B.  1,  dej.  2,  D.  2V2,  pens,  from  8  fr. ;  *Hotel  de 
Cologne,  Rue  de  la  Fourche  17-20,  R.  21/2-81/2,  B.  1,  dej.  2,  D.  21/2  fr. ; 
Grand  Monarque  (PI.  r ;  D,  3),  Rue  des  Fripiers  17,  R.  from  21/2,  L.  & 
A.  1,  B.  1V4,"L>.  3fr. ;  Hotel  de  la  Campine,  Marche  aux  Poulets  45  ;  Hotel 
Royal  j  Boulevard  du  Hainaut  87,  R.  from  II/2  fr.,  no  table  d'hote.  — 
Near  Uie  Slation  du  Nord:  Grand  Hotel  Geknay,  Boiilevard  du  Jardin 
Botanique  13,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  3,  B.  1,  dtj.21/2,  D.  3,  pens.  7  fr. ;  Hotel- 
Caf£  des  Boulevards,  Place  des  Nations  1;  Hotel  de  Bavi£re,  R.,  L., 
&  A.  21/2-3,  B.  Ifr..  with  restaurant;  Hotel  du  Rhin,  Rue  de  Brabant  14, 
R.,  L.,  <fc  A.  11/2-21/2,  B.  3/4,  D.  11/2-21/2,  pens.  6  fr. ;  these  two  German.  — 
Near  the  Station  du  3Iidi :  Hotel  des  Acacias,  de  Calais,  de  l'Esp£rance 
(good  restaurant),  de  la  Terrasse  (restaurant),  and  others.  —  Some  of 
the  Tavernes  mentioned  on  p.  73  contain  cheap  and  comfortable  rooms 
for  genllemen. 


[  BWJIXLLES^ 

m 

im- 

'^•^ 

'^i 

" ',  "r'^^ltjSi 

BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.     73 

A  number  of  Pensions  like  those  in  Switzerland  Lave  also  recently 
sprung  up:  S.  Btrnard,  Rue  Belliard  50-,  Wiltchers  Family  Hotel,  Boul. 
de  Waterloo  23  ('pens.''  8-11  fr.  per  day);  JIUe.  Van  Loo,  Rue  Keyenfeld  1 ; 
O.  Janssens,  Rue  de  Vienne  26;  Hoffmann^  Rue  Montoyer  51-53;  Mme. 
Gachet,  Rue  Candy  10;  2fine.  Stewart,  Rue  de  la  Concorde  61,  Avenue 
Louise;  Mnie.  ffetighebaert,  Rue  Berckmans  114;  Mme.  van  Pievoet,  Rue 
Stassart  86;  Verbeecf:,  B(.ul.  de  Waterloo  62  (6-10  fr.  per  day);  Toussaint, 
Rue  de  FEsplanade  i'6 ;  Kremer,  Rue  du  Trone  15 ;  Hermann,  Place  des 
Martyrs  and  Rue  des  Oeillets  2.  —  Furnished  Apartments.  Mrs.  Mathys, 
Rue'du  Prince  Royal  42;  Mrs.  Huntley.,  Rue  de  la  Science  1;  Mr.  Toelle, 
Rue  de  Staasart  84;  Mme.  Dievoort,  Rue  de  Stassart  82;  also  at  Avenue 
JIarnix  11. 

Restaurants.  ~Fr^res  ProvengavT,  Rue  Royale  40,  by  the  park,  D.  from 
5  to  7.30  p.m.  5  fr.,  cheapest  wine  3  fr.  per  bottle,  beefsteak  3  fr. ;  ^Mengelle, 
see  p.  72;  "Sevin  (neveu  Perrin),  Rue  Fossc-aux-Loups  35,  to  the  N.  of  the 
theatre  ;  'Caft  Riche,  Rue  de  lEcuyer  23,  corner  of  the  Rue  de  la  Fourche, 
D.  from  5  fr.,  patronised  by  the  Brussels  'Jeunesse  doree' ;  'Restaurant  du 
Grand  Hdtel,  Boul.  Anspach,  sometimes  overcrowded;  ''Rocher  de  Cancale, 
see  p.  72.  All  these  are  elegantly  fitted  up ,  and  resemble  the  leading 
restaurants  of  Paris.  The  viands  and  wine  are  excellent,  but  expensive. 
The  portions  are  generally  ample,  so  that  one  is  enough  for  two  persons. 

Next  in  order  to  the  above  houses  come  the  Cafes-Restaurants  and 
Tavernes,  at  which  the  cuisine  is  somewhat  less  elaborate  and  the  charges 
correspondingly  lower.  Between  11  a.m.  and  1-2  p.m.  (dejeuner)  and 
between  5  and  7  p.m.  (dinner)  a  choice  of  three  or  four  dishes  (plats 
du  Jour)  may  always  be  obtained;  the  charges  are  dej.  V4-IV4  fr-,  l^-  1- 
IV2  fr. ;  soup  or  cheese  (English,  Dutch,  or  'Gruyere')  40-50  c.  extra. 
Dinners  a  prix  fixe.,  2-5  fr.,  may  also  be  oY)tained  in  many  of  these  houses. 
Waiter  15-20  c.  The  usual  beverage  is  English  ale  or  stout  or  Belgian 
or  German  beer.  The  lirst  is  best  obtained  in  the  Tavernes  of  the  upper 
town  and  in  other  houses  with  English  names  (30  c.  per  half-pint),  while 
the  last  (30-40  c.  per  glass)  is  found  chielly  in  the  cafes  of  the  lower  town. 
The  following  are  the  most  conveniently-situated  of  these  establishments. 
In  the  Uppek  Town:  -Taverne  du  Globe  ^  ''Taverne  de  la  Rigence ,  both 
in  the  Place  Royale;  Taverne  Guillaume,  Rue  du  Musee  20;  Taverne  Fon- 
taine, Rue  duJIuseelO;  Taverne  Leopold,  Rue  du  Commerce  66.  —  In  the 
Lower  Town,  near  the  Place  de  la  Monnaie :  Ca/e  du  C'ercle,  Rue  Leopold  3 
and  Rue  de  lEcuyer  24;  Cafi  de  la  Monnaie,  Rue  Leopold  7;  Taverne  de 
Londres,  Rue  de  TEcuyer  15-17;  Taverne  Alexis  d;  Legrand,  Rue  de  TEcuyer 
45;  Taverne  Royale,  Passage  St.  Hubert,  Galerie  du  Roi,  and  Rue  d'Aren- 
berg;  Grande  Taverne  Allemande,  Rue  des  Bouchers  27  (Pi..  21/2  fr.);  Taverne 
St.  Jean,  Rue  St.  Jean,  to  the  W.  of  the  JHontagne  de  la  Cour  and  Boul. 
Anspach  44.  —  In  or  near  the  Boulevard  Anspach:  'Restaurant  Jean  Dubois, 
Rue  de  la  Bourse  12;  Pare  aux  Huitres,  Boul.  Anspach  29;  Restaurant  de 
la  Bourse,  at  the  back  of  the  Exchange;  "Au  Filet  de  Sole,  Rue  Gretry  1. 
near  the  Halles  Centrales ;  Restaurant  Dtivivier,  Boulevard  du  Nord  116 
(with  garden).  —  The  following  is  somewhat  inconveniently  situated :  Du- 
ranton.  Avenue  Louise  82,  on  the  way  to  the  Bois  de  la  Cambre. 

The  following  are  good  Eating  Houses  in  the  side-streets  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  Place  de  I'Hotel  de  Ville,  chiefly  frequented  by  natives:  Au  Gigot 
de  Mouton,  Au  Filet  de  Boeuf,  Rue  des  Harengs;  A  la  Faille  Dechirie, 
Rue  Chair  et  Pain.  Oysters,  steaks,  and  chops  are  their  strong  points^;  wine 
is  .usually  drunk,  but  beer  may  also  be  obtained. 

Beer  Houses.  English  Ale  and  Stout:  Prince  of  Wales,  Rue  Villa 
Hermosa  8,  first  cross-street  to  the  right  in  descending  the  Montagne  de 
la  Cour  (rooms  to  let);  Old  Tom  Tavern,  Rue  des  Princes,  Place  de  la  Mon- 
naie. —  German  Beer:  Taverne  de  Munich,  Rue  de  la  Madeleine  60  (with 
garden);  Tav.  Jean,  Impasse  du  Pare  (PI.  E,  3);  Trois  Suisses,  Rue  des 
Princes ;  Augustinerbrdu,  R,ue  des  Princes  18  (Hotel  Rhenania),  near  the 
Place  de  la  Monnaie;  Tav.  Bass,  Boul.  Anspach  8;  Tav.  Clarenbach, 
Galerie  de  la  Poste;  Tav.  Joseph,  Boulevard  Anspach  52,  near  the  Exchange  ; 
Brasserie  Pschorr,  Boul.  Anapach  64 ;  Happel,  at  the  corner  of  the  Marche 
aux  Poulets,  to  the  N.  of  the  Exchange;  Tav.  Victoria,  Rue  des  Fripiers  14; 


74     Route  12,  BRUSSELS.  Post  Office. 

Tav.  du  Ddme,  Galerie  du  Commerce  53,  with  garden;  and  many  others. 

—  Belgian  Beer,  brewed  in  the  German  manner  and  called  Munich  or  Bock 
J3  sold  in  many  cat'e-restaurants ,  such  as  the  Ca/6  Mitropole  and  the 
Ancien  HOUl  Continental^  both  iu  the  Place  de  Brouckere  (PI.  D,  2).  The 
ordinary  Belgian  beer  (Faro,  Louvain^  Lanibicq,  Ui/zet,  Bock  National)  is 
largely  consumed  by  the  natives,  but  will  probably  be  found  unpalatable 
by  strangers.     The  Estaminets,  or  beer-houses,  are  very  numerous. 

Wine  Rooms.  Rhine  wine  and  31oselle:  Bue  Henri  Maus  29,  next  door 
to  the  Exchange;  Moselhduschen,  Eue  de  la  Eeine  15,  next  the  Mint.  — 
Italian  wine :  F.  Cirio,  Rue  de  la  Bourse  18,  2U.  —  Block''s  Universal  Wine 
Co.,  Rue  Paul  Devaux  6;  Continental  Bodega  Co.,  Rue  de  Louvain  2,  in 
the  Passage  (Galerie  du  Roi  28j,  and  Rue  de  Jvamur  2.  —  Wine  may  be 
obtained  by  the  glass  or  by  the  bottle  in  these  establishments. 

Cafes  are  very  numerous  and  generally  good  (coffee  30  c,  beer  30-35  c, 
ices  70  c).  "Mille  Colotmes,  in  the  Place  de  la  Blonnaie;  "Cafi  du  Grand 
Hdtel,  Boulevard  Anspach  23,  to  the  N.  of  the  Exchange;  '■Sesino,  Boul. 
Anspach  3;  Cafi  Central,  in  the  Hotel  Central,  see  p.  72;  Cafi  des  Tem- 
pliers,  Place  de  la  Bourse;  Ca/6  Teniers,  Boulevard  Anspach  83,  with 
large  billiard-room ;  Ca/e  Monico,  Rue  d'Arenberg  1.  —  Ices  at  the  cales, 
and  also  at  the  following  confectioners:  Brias  &  Co.,  Rue  Cantersteen  b 
(PI.  D,  4);  Maihis,  Rue  Treurenberg  25  (at  these  two  50c.  per  portion); 
Marchal,  Rue  de  TEcuyerSO;  Brockaert^  Rue  de  I'Ecuyer  33. 

Baths.  Bain  Royal  (Pl.F,3j,  Rue  de  lEnseignement  tj2  (cold  and  swim- 
ming baths)  and  Rue  du  Moniteur  10-12  (warm  baths,  1  fr.  20  c.  to  2  fr.) ;  Bains 
St.  JSauveur  (PI.  3;  D,  3),  Montague  aux  Herbes  Potageres  33;  Bains  Leo- 
pold (PI.  2;  D,  4),  Rue  des  Trois  Tetes  8,  both  with  good  swimming 
basins  (1  fr.).    Open-air  Swimming  Baths,  Eue  de  la  Glaciere  8,  St.  Gilles. 

Shops.  The  best  are  in  the  Rue  de  la  Madeleine  and  Montague  de  la 
Cour,  the  principal  streets  leading  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  part  of 
the   city;    also   in   the   Rue  Neuve,   the   Passages,   and   Boul.    Anspach. 

—  Money  Changers  in  the  Montagne  de  la  Cour  (No.  81),  Marche  aux 
Herbes,  Rue  des  Fripiers,  etc. 

Brussels  Lace.  The  following  are  the  most  important  houses  for  this 
speciality  :  Verde-Delisle  d;  Co.  (Conipagnie  des  Indes),  Rue  de  la  Regence  1 ; 
Baimeries-Petitjean,  Rue  Royale  2 ;  Bdval-De  Beck,  Rue  Royale  74 ;  Miiser  «&  Co., 
Boulevard  de  la  Senne  44;  Baert  d-  Co.,  Place  des  Martyrs  22;  Be  Vergnies 
d-  Soeurs,  Rue  des  Paroissiens  26 ;  Sacri,  Place  des  Martyrs  20;  Buchholtz, 
Rue  Leopold  3;  Duden,  Rue  Neuve  120;  Yoss-Michel,  Galerie  de  la  Reine  8, 
Rue  Neuve  84,  and  Rue  de  la  Madeleine  10;  Schuermans,  Rue  des  Cendres  8; 
F.  Kau/mann,  Passage  (Galerie  du  Roi  3);  Stern  d-  Co.,  Rue  de  la  Chan- 
cellerie  21.  The  recommendations  of  commissionaires  and  other  touts 
should  be  disregarded,  as  they  are  rarely  disinterested.  —  The  lace  is 
less  expensive  than  formerly,  as  the  flowers  or  'sprigs'  are  now  sewn 
upon  a  ground  of  tulle  instead  of  one  made  by  hand.  The  flowers  are 
either  manufactured  with  the  bobbin  (Jleurs  en  plat)  or  with  the  needle 
(Jleurs  en  point).  About  130,000  women  are  employed  in  this  manufacture 
in  Belgium,  and  the  value  of  their  work  is  about  50  million  fr.  annually. 

Booksellers.  Office  de  Publicity  (Lebegue  &  Co.),  Rue  de  la  Madeleine  4(3; 
Kiessling  d-  Co.,  with  lending  library,  Montagne  de  la  Cour  72;  Muquardt, 
Rue  des  Paroissiens  20;  Spineux,  Montagne  de  la  Cour  86.  —  Engravings: 
Giruzet,  Rue  de  TEcuyer  27 B;  Leroy  d'  Fits,  Montagne  de  la  Cour  83; 
Dietrich  d-  Co.,  Montagne  de  la  Cour  75.  —  The  Belgian  News  is  an  Eng- 
lish newspaper  published  weekly  at  Brussels;  office.  Rue  du  Pepin  17. 

Post  Office.  The  central  office  (PI.  D,  2)  is  now  in  the  old 
Augustine  Church,  Boulevard  Anspach;  open  from  5  a.m.  to  8  p.m.  There 
are  also  numerous  branch-offices,  open  from  7.  a.  m.  to  7  p.m.,  all  with 
telegraph-offices:  at  the  railway-stations.  Place  de  la  Chancellerie  1,  Rue 
de  Louvain  (Palais  de  la  Nation),  Avenue  de  rAstronomie  27,  Boulevard 
de  Waterloo  9,  Place  de  la  Chapelle  G,  etc.  Pillar  letter-boxes  in  all  the 
principal  streets. 

Telegraph  Office.  Central  office  (PI.  64;  E,  1)  at  the  Station  du  Nord, 
Rue  de  Brabant;  'succursales'  at  the  post-offices  (see  above). 

International  Intelligence  Office,  Rue  Royalel  (Hotel  Bellevue),  for  se- 


Cabs.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.     75 

curingrailway-ticketsandsleeping-carriages,  forwarding  luggage,  etc.— Cooi'* 
Tourist  0/jice,  Rue  de  la  Madeleine  41.  —  Office  des  Voyages^  Boul.  Ans- 
pach  41.  —  Agence  det  Eiranger*  (for  lodgings,  etc.),  Boulevard  de  la 
Senne  12. 

Cabs  (Voitures  de  Place).  The  following  is  the  tarift'  of  the  Brussels 
municipal  district  for  one-horse  cabs,  holding  1-3  persons.  There  is  no 
lixed  tariff  for  the  two-horse  cabs.  —  From  6  (in  winter  7)  a.m.  till 
midnight,  for  72  hr.  1  fr.,  for  each  V*  It.  additional  50  c.  From  mid- 
night to  6  or  7  a.m..  for  1/2  hr.  2  fr.,  each  V*  hr.  additional  1  fr. 

Trunk  15  c,  small  luggage  free.  Gratuity  of  10-25  c.  to  the  driver 
usual.  This  tariff  includes  drives  in  the  Boia  de  la  Cambre  and  the  Park 
of  Laeken,  provided  the  hirer  returns  to  town  in  the  same  cab.  If  not, 
1  fr.  extra  is  paid  as  return-money. 

The  fares  of  the  '  Yoituves  de  Grande  Remise*.,  superior  vehicles,  with 
coachmen  in  livery,  are  higher. 

Tramway  (Cheiiiin  de  Fer  AmAricain).  Brussels  possesses  a  very 
complete  network  of  tramways,  which  are  marked  in  the  Plan.  The  cars 
run  every  10  or  20  min. ;  fares  10-60  c.  according  to  the  distance  traversed  i 
5  c.  extra  in  the  hinder  part  (1st  cl.j  of  the  cars. 

1.  From  Schaerbeek  (PI.  F,  1)  through  the  Hue  Roi/ale,  and  then 
either  across  the  Place  des  Palais  and  through  the  Boulevard  de  Waterloo 
(yellow  name-boards  and  yellow  lamp  in  front,  green  behind),  or  through 
the  Rue  de  la  R4gence  (red  boards  and  red  lamp  in  front,  green  behind), 
to  the  Avenue  Louise  (PI.  D,  6)  and  the  Bois  de  la  Cambre. 

2.  From  the  Station  du  Nord  by  the  Upper  Boulevards  (PI.  E,  F,  2-5) 
to  the  Station  du  Midi  (red  lamp  in  front,  green  behind). 

3.  From  the  Station  du  Nord  to  the  Station  du  Midi  by  the  Lower 
Boulevards  (PI.  C,  B,  1-6). 

4.  From  Laeken  through  the  Hue  du  Progres  to  the  Station  du  Nord 
and  by  the  Inner  Boulevards  (PI.  D,  C,  1-0)  to  the  Station  du  Midi  (white 
boards  and  green  lamps). 

5.  From  the  Rue  du  Pavilion  in  Schaerbeek  to  the  Station  du  Nord 
and  via  the  Inner  Boulevards  to  the  Station  du  Midi  and  St.  Gilles  (black 
boards  and  yellow  lamps). 

6.  From  the  Place  Liedts  in  Schaerbeek  to  the  Station  du  Nord  (PI.  E,  1) 
and  via  the  Inner  Boulevards  to  the  Station  du  Midi  and  Forest  (yellow 
boards,  red  lamps). 

7.  From  Laeken  by  the  Chaussee  d'Anvers,  Rue  de  Laeken,  Rue  van 
Artevelde,  and  Chaussee  de  Mons  to  Cureghem  and  Anderlecht. 

8.  From  the  Impasse  du  Pare  (PI.  E,  3)  through  the  Rue  de  la  Loi  to 
the  Palais  du  Cinquantenaire  (beyond  PI.  G,  4). 

9.  From  the  Place  Royale  (PI.  E,  4)  through  the  Rue  Belliard  to  the 
Pare  Leopold  (PI.  G,  5). 

10.  From  the  Place  Royale  through  the  Rue  de  la  Re'gence,  Avenue 
Louise,  Chaussee  de  Charleroi,  and  Avenue  Brugman  to  Uccle  (PI.  D,  6). 

11.  From  the  Place  Royale  via  the  Place  du  Trone  (PI.  E,  5)  to  the 
Place  du  Luxembourg  (PI.  F,  6). 

12.  From  the  Exchange  (PI.  C,  4)  via  the  Place  Ste.  Gudule  and  Place 
du  Congres  to  the  Place  St.  Josse-ten-Noode  (PI.  C-G,  3),  every  10  min. 
(•tramway  deraillable',  with  five-wheeled  cars). 

Omnibus  from  the  Exchange  via  the  Place  Royale  and  the  Porte  de 
Namur  to  Ixelles  (PI.  0,  3,  4;  D,  4;  E,  5;  F,  6),  every  V2  hr. 

Steam  Tramway.  1.  From  the  Place  St.  Josse  (PI.  G,  3)  to  the  Central 
Cemetery  at  Evere  and  from  the  Porte  de  Na7nur,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
Rue  de  Namur  (PI-  E,  5),  to  the  Bois  de  la  Cambre,  and  thence  to  the 
race-course  at  Boitsfort  (p.  191) ,  either  by  the  Chaussee  dixelles,  or  the 
Chaussee  de  Wavre.  —  2.  From  the  Egl'ise  Ste.  Marie  (PI.  F,  1)  via  the 
Place  St.  Josse  and  the  Chaussee  d'Etterbeck  (Pare  Le'opold)  to  the  Bois 
de  la  Cambre, 

Theatres.  TM&tre  Royal  de  la  Monnaie  (PI.  D,  3),  Place  de  la  Mon- 
naie,  for  operas  only;  open  almost  every  day  in  autumn,  winter, 
and  spring.  Performances  begin  at  7,  and  last  till  11  or  later.  Fauteuils 
d'orchestre  and  premieres  loges  6  fr. ;    balcon   (reserved  seats   in  front  of 


7G     Route  12,  BRUSSELS.  Collections. 

the  best  boxes)  and  secondes  loges  5  fr. ;  parquet  (between  the  stalls  and 
pit)  and  secondes  loges,  at  the  side,  4  fr.;  troisi^mes  loges  and  parterre 
(pit)  2  fr.  ;  seats  previously  secured  ('en  location")  cost  V2-I  fr.  each  ad- 
ditional; bureau  de  location  open  daily  12-3  o'clock.  —  Thidire  Royal  du 
Pare  (PI.  67;  E,  3,  4) ,  built  in  1782,  comedies,  vaudevilles,  dramas ;  best 
seats  5  fr.  —  Thidire  des  Oaleries  St.  Hubert  (PI.  06,  D,  3;  operas,  dramas, 
comedies,  vaudevilles),  in  the  Passage  of  that  name  (p.  107),  with  accommo- 
dation for  15UU  spectators;  best  boxes  5  fr.  —  Theatre  Moliere  (PI.  68;  E, 
5),  Rue  du  Bastion,  for  dramas  and  vaudevilles;  best  seats  5  fr. —  Thidtre 
Flamand  or  Vlaamsche  Schouwhurg  (PI.  72;  D,  1),  Rue  de  Laeken  124  A ; 
best  seats  2i/2  fr.  —  Thidtre  du  Vaudeville.,  in  the  Passage  (Galerie  de  la 
Reine  15),  comedies  and  broad  farces ;  best  seats  3  fr.  —  Alhambra  (PI.  71 ; 
1)  2),  Boulevard  de  la  Senne  18,  operettas ,  spectacular  pieces ;  best  seats 
6  fr.  —  Circus  (Pi.  73;  E,  3),  Rue  de  rEuseignement. 

Concerts  in  winter  in  the  Conservatoire  de  Musique  (PI.  11;  D,  5), 
Rue  de  la  Regence,  at  the  corner  of  the  Petit-Sablon,  given  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Conservatoire  Royal  de  Musique;  admission  1-3  fr.  —  'Concerts 
populaires  et  classiques'  generally  twice  a  month,  on  Sundays  at  1  p.m., 
in  the  The'atre  de  la  Monnaie  (p.  77).  —  Open-air  concerts  in  the  Park 
daily  in  summer  (1st  May  to  30th  September)  3-4.30  p.m. ;  at  the  Vauxhall 
(PI.  E,  3,  4),  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Park,  concert  by  the  orchestra  of 
the  royal  theatre  at  8  p.m.  (1  fr.);  military  band  on  Sun.  and  Thnrs.  after- 
noons in  the  Bois  de  la  Cambre. 

Popular  Festivals.  'Kermesse'  from  the  middle  of  July  to  the  middle 
of  August,  and  the  anniversary  of  the  Revolution  ('fetes  nationales')  on 
July  21st,  and  the  preceding  or  following  days,  on  which  occasions  Fle- 
mish merriment  becomes  somewhat  boisterous.  —  Horse  Races.,  several 
times  annually,  at  the  Hippodrome,  on  the  road  to  Boitsfort  (see  p.  115). 

Embassies.  American  Minister,  Hon.  E.  H.  Terrell.,  Rue  Belliard  43 ; 
Consul,  Col.  G.  W.  Roosevelt,  Buul.  de  Waterloo  75.  —  British  Envoy, 
Lord  Vivian,  Rue  de  Spa  2;  Vice-Consul,  T.  E.  Jeffcs,  Esq.;  Pro-Consul, 
IK.  E.  Sergeant,  Esq.,  Rue  d'Edimbourg  35. 

English  Physicians.  Dr.  CoUignon,  Rue  des  Chevaliers  24;  Dr.  Thom- 
son, Rue  d'Egmout  14.  —  Dentist,  Dr.  George  Fay,  Rue  Joseph  23.  — 
Chemists.   Delucre,  Montague  de  laCour  80 ;  Delchevalerie,  Rue  de  Namur  74. 

English  Bankers.  Messrs.  Big  wood  d-  Morgan,  Rue  Royale  16;  Suf- 
feld  &  Co.,  Montagne  de  la  Cour  81.  —  Solicitors.  T.  E.  Jeffes,  Esq.,  Bue 
d'Edimbourg  35;  A.  F.  Chamberlayne,  Esq.,  Rue  Souveraine  91,  Avenue 
Louise. 

British  Institute  and  Home  for  Governesses  and  Servants,  Rue  de 
Vienne  2G  (resident  honorary  secretaries,  Mrs.  C.  E.  Jenkins  and  Miss  Young). 
—  British  Charitable  Fund,  established  1815;  Hon.  Sec,  Rue  de  la  Loi  82. 

English  Club,  20  line  du  Musee. 

Brussels  Cricket  it  Lawn  Tennis  Club,  Avenue  de  Longchamp  (tramway). 

English  Church  Service  at  the  Church  of  the  Resurrection,  Rue  Stassart 
(PI.  E,  6;  services  at  8.30,  11,  4,  and  7;  chaplain,  Rev.  John  C.  Jenkins, 
M.  A.);  at  Christchurch,  Rue  Crespel,  Avenue  de  la  Toison  d'Or  (11  a.m. 
and  7  p.m.;  chaplain.  Rev.  IF.  R.  Stephens,  M.  A.);  and  at  the  Protestant 
Church  in  the  Rue  Belliard  (12  noon  and  4  p.m.;  chaplain.  Rev.  A.  K. 
Harlock,  M.  A.),  French  Protestant  services  in  the  last-named  church,  in 
the  Chapelle  du  Boulevard  de  rObservatoire,  and  in  the  Chapelle  du 
Musee.  German  Protestant  services  also  in  the  last-named.  Flemish  Pro- 
testant service  at  Rue  Blaes  70.  —  Synagogue,  Rue  de  la  Rdgence,  see  p.  103. 

Collections,  Museums,  etc.  :  —  Armour  at  the  Porte  de  Hal  (p.  113), 
daily  10-4,  Mon.  1-4. 

Bibliothhque  Royale  (p.  88).  daily  10-3. 

Botanical  Garden  (p.  Ill),  daily  till  dusk;  admission  to  the  hot-houses 
by  payment  of  a  fee,  10-12  and  2-4  (not  on  Sundays). 

Exchange  ip.  109),  daily;  business-hours  1-3  p.m.,  corn-exchange  later. 

Hdtel  de  Ville  (p.  105);  interior  best  seen  before  9  a.m.  or  after  4  p.m. 

Musie  d'Art  Monumental  et  Jndnstriel,  in  the  Palais  du  Cinquantenaire 
(p.  82),  daily  10-4,  in  winter  10-3. 

Musee  Communal  (p.  106),  daily  10-4. 


History.  BRUSSELS.  V2.  Route,     77 

Musde  Wiertz  (p.  112),  daily  10-4. 

Natural  Historv  Colleciion  (p.  112),  daily  10-3. 

Palais  des  Academies  (frescoes  in  the  hall;  p.  81),  daily,  50c. 

Palais  Arenberg  (picture-gallery,  p.  102),  shown  on  week-days,  10-4, 
in  the  absence  of  the  Duke  (strangers  are  sometimes  admitted  when  the 
Duke  is  at  home  on  sending  in  their  cards);  fee  2  fr. 

Palais  Royal  (p.  80),  shown  in  absence  of  the  King  only,  and  by 
special  permission  of  the  'marechal  du  palais",  or  minister  of  the  household. 

Picture  Gallerii  (p.  89,  94),  daily  10  to  3,  4,  or  5 ;  on  the  Ist  and  3rd 
Mon.  of  each  month  the  modern  pictures   are  not  shown  before  12  noon. 

Pictures^  see  also  ^lusee  Wiertz,  Palais  Arenberg,  Palais  Ducal. 

Principal  Attractions  :  Park  (p.  SO)  and  its  environs  •,  Congress  Column 
(p.  85);  Cathedral  (p.  85);  Museum  (p.  89);  Palais  de  Justice  (p.  103); 
Market-place  and  Hotel  de  Ville  (p.  105);  Maison  du  Roi  and  Muse'e  Com- 
munal (p.  106);  Mannikin  Fountain  (p.  107);  the  new  Boulevards  and  Ex- 
change (p.  109);  Galerie  St.  Hubert  (p.  107),  in  the  evening  by  gas-light; 
Musee  Wiertz  (p.  112);  Palais  du  Cinquantenaire  (p.  81);  Drive  in  the 
Bois  de  la  Camhre  (p.  115). 

Brussels,  the  capital  of  Belgium,  the  residence  of  the  royal 
family,  and  the  seat  of  government,  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  kingdom,  on  the  Serine,  a  small  tributary  of  the  Schelde.  The 
city  consists  of  the  lower  part  on  the  N.W.  side,  traversed  by  several 
canals  and  ramifications  of  the  Sonne ,  most  of  which  are  now 
vaulted  over,  and  the  upper  part  on  the  S.E.  side,  covering  the  slope 
which  gradually  rises  from  the  river.  In  1887  the  population  was 
177,523,  or  including  the  ten  suburbs  (named  from  the  N.  towards 
the  E.,  Schaerbeek,  St.  Josse-ten-Noode,  Etterbeek,  Ixelles,  St.  Gilles, 
Cureghem,  Anderlecht,  Koekelberg,  Molenbeek-St-Jean,  Laefcen) about 
450,000.  There  are  nearly  2000  English  residents.  Most  of 
the  latter  reside  in  or  near  the  Quart ier  Leopold  (p.  112),  the 
highest  and  pleasantest  part  of  the  town.  The  commerce  of  Brussels 
is  comparatively  small  in  extent,  but  its  manufactures  of  lace 
(p.  74),  furniture,  bronzes,  carriages,  and  leather  articles  are  very 
important. 

The  chronicles  of  the  8th  cent,  make  mention  of  a  village  named 
'Brucsella'  (broek,  marsh ;  broeksele,  dwelling  on  the  marsh),  and  a 
document  of  Otho  the  Great  proves  that  there  was  a  church  here  in 
966.  In  the  11th  cent,  the  town  was  considerably  extended  and 
surrounded  by  walls,  and  soon  became  an  important  station  on  the 
great  commercial  route  between  Bruges  and  Cologne.  The  princes 
and  nobility  erected  their  mansions  on  the  heights  rising  gradually 
from  the  Senne,  among  them  the  Counts  of  Louvain,  the  sovereign 
lords  of  the  country,  who  afterwards  assumed  the  title  of  Dukes  of 
Brabant  (12th  cent.).  The  Burgundian  princes,  who  subsequently 
resided  here  (15th  cent.),  were  generally  surrounded  by  a  large  re- 
tinue of  French  knights,  in  consequence  of  which,  even  at  that  period, 
French  became  the  most  fashionable  language  among  the  nobility  of 
the  Netherlands.  The  character  of  the  city  and  its  inhabitants  thus 
gradually  developed  itself,  the  court  and  the  nobility,  with  their 
French  language  and  manners,  being  established  in  the  upper  part, 
while  the  lower  quarters  were  chiefly  occupied  by  the  trading  com- 


78     Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  HUtory  of  Art, 

munity  and  the  lower  classes,  whose  language  and  character  were 
essentially  Flemish. 

After  the  Netherlands  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Haps- 
burgs  in  1477,  Brussels  became  the  seat  of  a  brilliant  court,  which 
attained  the  height  of  its  magnificence  under  Charles  V.  Philip  II. 
made  it  the  official  residence  of  the  Stadtholder  of  the  Netherlands, 
and  Margaret  of  Parma  (p.  xvii}  here  performed  the  duties  of  that  office. 
Brussels  was  the  scene  of  the  first  rising  of  the  Netherlands  against 
the  Spanish  dominion  (1566;  see  p.  103),  but  at  the  end  of  the 
protracted  conflict  the  city  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  Spaniards. 
During  the  wars  of  Louis  XIY.  and  Louis  XV.  Brussels  had  much 
to  suffer.  Its  refractoriness  under  the  galling  yoke  of  the  Austrian 
governors  was  another  source  of  disaster  (see  p.  106),  but  a  better 
state  of  affairs  was  introduced  by  the  mild  rule  of  Maria  Theresa 
and  her  stadtholder,  Duke  Charles  of  Lorraine  (1741-80).  After  the 
wars  of  the  French  Republic  and  the  First  Empire ,  Belgium  was 
united  in  one  monarchy  with  Holland,  and  Brussels  alternated  with 
the  Hague  as  the  seat  of  the  States  General  and  the  residence  of 
the  king.  The  revolution  which  ended  in  the  separation  of  Belgium 
and  Holland  broke  out  at  Brussels  in  1830 ;  and  on  July  21st  of  the 
following  year,  the  new  King  of  Belgium,  Leopold  of  Saxe-Coburg- 
Gotha,  entered  the  city  in  state.  At  that  time  Brussels  contained 
about  100,000  inhabitants. 

The  half-French  half-Flemish  character  of  the  city,  of  which  we 
have  spoken  above,  is  still  recognisable  at  the  present  day.  The 
upper  part  of  the  city,  which  was  rebuilt  after  a  great  conflagration  in 
1731,  contains  the  Royal  Palace,  the  ministerial  offices,  the  embassies, 
and  the  mansions  of  the  nobility  and  gentry.  The  well-known  ball 
given  by  the  Duchess  of  Richmond  on  the  eve  of  the  Battle  of  Water- 
loo took  place  in  the  house  in  the  Rue  Royale  nearest  to  the  former 
Porte  de  Schaerbeek.  The  lower  town,  on  the  other  hand,  is  devoted 
almost  entirely  to  industry  and  commerce.  The  spacious  market- 
place, with  the  magnificent  Hotel  de  Ville  and  the  mediaeval  guild- 
houses,  presents  a  very  striking  picture,  and  affords  an  idea  of  the 
ancient  glory  of  the  city,  but  the  advance  of  modern  improvement 
has  left  few  other  relics  of  antiquity.  The  most  conspicuous  step 
in  this  direction  has  been  the  construction  of  the  Inner  Boulevards. 

Sketch  of  Art  in  Brussels.  During  the  <wo  golden  ages  of  Flemish 
art  in  the  i5th  and  again  in  the  i7th  cent.,  Brussels  held  a  subordinate 
position,  when  compared  with  other  Belgian  towns,  such  as  Ghent,  Bruges, 
and  Antwerp;  but  the  appointment  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden  the  Elder 
to  the  office  of  civic  painter  in  1436  (p.  xli)  is  sufficient  proof  that  art 
was  not  neglected  here.  The  prosecution  of  the  fine  arts,  as  indeed  that 
of  liberal  pursuits  in  general,  fell  entirely  into  abeyance  in  the  18th 
century.  The  name  of  Brussels,  however,  again  became  known  in  con- 
nection with  painting  after  the  year  1815,  when  Jacqves-Louis  David,  the 
famous  head  of  the  modern  French  school,  banished  from  Paris  as  a  re- 
gicide, took  up  his  abode  here.  David  was  too  old  to  found  a  new  school, 
but  it  was  owing  to  his  influence  that  the  classical  style  remained  longer 
dominant  in  Brussels  than  in  other  Belgian  art-centres.  Navez,  Portaels, 
and  Mathieu,  who  flourished  here  during  the  third  and  fourth  decades  of 


History  of  Art.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.     79 

the  present  century,  are  good  representatives  of  the  correct  and  careful, 
though  at  the  same  time  cold  and  lifeless  style  which  then  prevailed  at 
Brussels,  particularly  in  the  domains  of  sacred  art. 

In  the  remarkable  revolution  in  taste  and  practice  which  took  place 
in  Belgium  after  1830,  Brussels  took  little  part,  the  movement  being 
headed  by  Antwerp.  The  political  importance  and  wealth  of  the  city, 
however,  have  assembled  here  the  chief  colony  of  artists  in  Belgium, 
though  it  is  impossible  to  class  them  together  as  forming  a  school. 

The  most  distinguished  names  about  1840-50  are  those  of  Louis  Gal- 
lait  (1810-87;  p.  60)  and  Edouard  di  Bilfve  (1808-82),  whose  'Ab- 
dication of  Charles  V  (p.  90)  and  'Compromise  of  the  Belgian  Xo- 
bles'  (p.  92)  won  them  ardent  admirers  far  beyond  the  confines  of 
Belgium.  Gallait  in  particular  cultivated  a  careful  naturalism,  coupled 
with  the  utmost  attention  to  details,  in  which,  however,  he  still  fell  far 
short  of  the  technical  skill  of  the  present  day.  The  fact  of  their  having 
given  expression  to  national  ideas,  and  celebrated  the  praises  of  Egmont 
in  particular,  has  contributed  not  a  little  to  the  popularity  of  both  these 
masters.  At  one  period  Gallait  was  very  partial  to  a  kind  of  sentimental 
style,  which  in  some  cases  degenerated  into  the  melodramatic.  In  a 
later  generation  the  following  have  acquired  eminence  as  historical  and 
genre  painters:  Slingeneyer.  Markelbach.,  Wulffaert  (a  pupil  of  Gallait), 
De  Vriendt,  Madou  (d.  1877),  and  Slallaert.  Emile  Wauters  is  the  most 
distinguished  living  painter  who  can  be  said  to  belong  to  a  properly  in- 
digenous school.  The  French  influence,  which  has  already  submerged 
the  national  literature,  promises  gradually  to  supersede  the  national  art 
as  well.  This  is  shown  by  the  increasing  resort  of  Belgian  artists  to 
Parisian  studios,  by  their  not  unfrequent  migrations  to  Paris,  and  lastly 
and  mainly  by  their  ready  acceptance  of  the  traditions  observed  by  Pa- 
risian artists  since  the  time  of  the  Second  Empire.  Leading  represen- 
tatives of  this  French  element  on  Belgian  soil  are  the  genre  painters  Al- 
fred Stevens  and  Willems,  the  first  of  whom  in  particular  is  more  at  home 
in  Paris  than  in  his  native  country. 

Another  style,  marked  by  its  correct  drawing,  and  resembling  the  Ger- 
man school,  is  exemplified  by  G.  Guff  ens  and  Jai  Swerts,  who  made  many 
conjoint  efforts  to  naturalise  fresco-painting  in  Belgium  (Antwerp,  p.  154 ; 
Ypres,  p.  29 ;  Courtrai,  p.  56).  —  As  a  specialist  may  be  mentioned  the 
animal-painter  E.  Vet'boeckhoven,  with  whom  the  names  of  Robbe  and 
Tschaggeny  may  be  coupled.  In  landscape-painting  Belgium  has  no  con- 
temporary artists  comparable  to  those  of  Holland. 

The  eccentric  painter  Wiertz^  nearly  all  of  whose  works  are  collected 
and  preserved  in  a  gallery  of  their  own  (p.  112),  occupies  a  perfectly  unique 
position.  Although  naturally  quite  capable  of  acquiring  the  technical 
skill  of  Eubens  .  to  which  indeed  he  in  some  measure  attained,  Wiertz 
was  unfortunately  led  by  personal  disappointment  and  literary  quarrels  to 
embark  on  an  entirely  mistaken  career,  bordering  on  madness. 

The  art  ofScuLPxcEE  is  pursued  at  Brussels  with  great  success,  as  is 
proved  by  such  names  as  Eug.  Simonis ,  A.  Fraikin,  Jehotte,  and  W.  and 
/.  Geefs.  Still  happier  results  have  been  attained  by  sculptors  of  ecclesias- 
tical subjects,  and  particularly  in  wood-carving,  in  which  Belgium  has 
regained  some  of  its  17th  cent.' reputation.  Its  chief  seats  are  Brussels  and 
Louvain,  and  its  most  eminent  masters  Geerts  and  the  brothers  Goyers. 
The  works  of  this  school  are  so  frequent  in  new  and  restored  churches, 
that  it  is  superfluous  to  adduce  examples  here. 

In  Aechitectuee  the  Gallic  proclivities  of  the  people  are  shown  by 
the  overwhelming  number  of  houses  in  the  so-called  French  Renaissance 
style  (from  Louis  XIII.  to  Louis  XVI.)  which  have  sprung  up  within  the 
last  few  years  and  completely  altered  the  appearance  of  the  old  Brabant 
capital.  It  must  be  mentioned  on  the  other  hand  that  the  Flemish  Re- 
naissance style  of  the  16th  cent,  has  also  become  extremely  popular,  and 
has  been  followed  not  only  in  private  houses,  in  which  the  most  striking 
feature  is  the  small  proportion  borne  by  the  breadth  to  the  height,  but 
also  in  various  public  edifices. 


80     Route  1 -J.  BRUSSELS.  Palais  Royal. 

The  *Park  (PI.  E,  4),  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  part 
of  the  town,  originally  the  garden  of  the  Dukes  of  Brabant,  and  laid 
out  in  its  present  form  in  1774,  is  an  attractive  spot,  although  of 
limited  extent  (500  yds.  in  length,  300  yds.  in  width").  Among  the 
sculptures  it  contains  are  a  Diana  and  Narcissus,  at  the  fountain 
opposite  the  Palais  de  la  Nation,  both  by  Grupello ;  a  Magdalene 
by  Duquesnoy  ;  a  bust  of  Peter  the  Great,  presented  to  the  city  by 
Prince  Demidoff ;  two  figures  of  Meleager  by  Lejeune  ;  and  a  Venus 
by  Olivier.  The  groups  at  the  entrance  opposite  the  Palace,  by 
Poelaert  and  Melot,  represent  Summer  and  Spring.  The  park  is  a 
fashionable  resort  in  summer  on  Sundays  from  1  to  2.30  p.m.,  and 
on  week-days  from  3  to  4.30  p.m.,  when  a  military  band  plays. 
There  is  also  music  here  on  most  summer-evenings  at  8  o'clock  (at 
the  Vauxhall,  p.  76).  The  park  is  closed  about  an  hour  after  dusk, 
when  a  bell  is  rung  to  apprise  visitors  of  the  shutting  of  the  gates. 
During  the  eventful  23rd-26th  of  September,  1830,  the  park  was  one 
of  the  chief  scenes  of  the  conflict.  Prince  Frederick  of  the  Nether- 
lands entered  Brussels  with  an  army  of  10,000  men  on  the  23rd, 
and  occupied  the  palace  and  park.  He  was,  however,  unable  to 
pass  the  barricades  which  guarded  the  streets,  and  evacuated  the 
park  on  the  night  of  the  26th. 

The  streets  surrounding  the  park,  the  Rue  Royale^  Rue  Ducale, 
Rue  de  la  Loi,  and  Place  des  Palais,  together  with  the  adjoining 
Place  Royale,  received  their  present  architectural  character  at  the 
time  of  the  formation  of  the  park  (last  quarter  of  the  18th  cent.), 
having  been  mainly  designed  by  the  talented  architect  Guimard. 
The  Rub  Royalb,  which  bounds  the  park  on  the  W.,  runs  along 
the  margin  of  the  eminence  on  which  the  upper  town  is  situated. 
As  in  other  streets  in  this  quarter,  the  traffic  is  comparatively  in- 
significant, though  several  attractive  shops  have  recently  been 
opened  here.  On  the  W.  the  row  of  houses  is  often  broken  by  small 
terraces,  intended  by  Guimard  to  afford  views  of  the  lower  town, 
but  many  of  them  have  unfortunately  been  built  up.  On  the  first  of 
these  terraces  rises  the  marble  Statue  of  Count  Belliard  (PI.  59 ; 
E,  4),  a  French  general  (d.  1832),  who  was  ambassador  at  the 
newly-constituted  court  of  Belgium  in  1831-32,  by  W.  Geefs. 

The  Palais  Royal  (PI.  E,4),  in  the  Place  des  Palais,  origi- 
nally consisted  of  two  buildings  erected  during  last  century,  which 
were  connected  by  an  intervening  structure  adorned  with  a  Corin- 
thian colonnade  in  1827.  It  is  at  present  being  entirely  remodelled 
from  designs  by  Balat,  and  two  new  wings  projecting  into  the  royal 
gardens  at  the  back  have  lately  been  completed.  The  interior  (adm. , 
see  p.  77)  contains  a  number  of  apartments  handsomely  fitted  up, 
and  a  considerable  number  of  ancient  and  modern  pictures. 
Among  the  former  are  specimens  of  Rubens,  Van  Dyck,  Hob- 
hema,  and  Frans  Hals ;  among  the  latter  are  works  of  De  Braekeleer, 
Coomans,  Gallait,  Verboeckhoven,  and  Wappers.  A  flag  hoisted  on 
the  palace  announces  the  presence  of  the  king. 


Palais  de  la  Nation.        BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.     81 

Near  the  Royal  Palace,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Ducale,  is 
situated  the  Palais  Ducal,  or  Palais  des  Academies  (PL  E,  4), 
formerly  that  of  the  Prince  of  Orange.  It  was  erected  at  the  national 
expense,  and  presented  to  the  Prince,  afterwards  King  William  XL 
of  Holland  (d.  1849),  in  1829.  Since  1842  it  has  been  the  property 
of  the  Belgian  government.  The  building  has  been  occupied  since 
1877  by  the  AcadSmie  Royale  des  Lettres,  Beaux-Arts,  et  Sciences, 
and  the  Academic  Royale  de  Medecine. 

The  Gkande  Salle  on  the  first  floor,  a  very  handsome  room,  has  been 
decorated  by  Slingeneyer  with  twelve  finely- executed  mural  paintings, 
representing  the  most  important  events  in  the  political  and  social  history 
of  Belgium.  1.  The  ancient  Belgians  under  Ambiorix  swearing  to  deliver 
their  country  from  the  Roman  yoke,  B.C.  54;  2.  Clovis  at  the  battle  of 
Ziilpich,  vowing  to  introduce  Christianity,  A.D.  496;  3.  Influence  of  Char- 
lemagne :  the  Emperor  in  the  school  of  Heristal ,  768-814 ;  4.  The  cul- 
minating period  of  chivalry :  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  visiting  the  Holy  Se- 
pulchre after  the  conquest  of  Jerusalem ,  1099  ;  4.  Culminating  period  of 
civic  prosperity  :  Jacques  Van  Artevelde  advising  the  Flemish  towns  to 
remain  neutral  in  the  wars  between  France  and  England,  1337 ;  6.  Cul- 
minating period  of  the  power  of  the  guilds :  Anneessens  (p.  105),  the 
energetic  defender  of  the  rights  of  the  guilds  against  the  Austrian  supre- 
macy, before  his  execution,  1719 ;  7.  Establishment  of  the  present  reigning 
family,  1831 ;  8.  The  fine  arts  :  Albert  and  Isabella  of  Austria,  after  their 
entry  into  Louvain,  attend  the  historical  teaching  of  Justus  Lipsius ; 
9.  Music:  Willaert, Clement, Lassus,Gretry,  etc.  ;  10.  Ancient  art :  Philippe 
le  Bon  of  Burgundy  visiting  Jan  and  Margaret  Van  Eyck  ;  on  the  wall  a 
portrait  of  Hubert  Van  Eyck;  11,  Modern  art:  E,ubens  returning  to  his 
native  country,  and  received  by  Van  Dyck,  Snyders,  Jordaens,  etc.  ; 
12.  Natural  science:  Vesalius  the  anatomist  on  the  field  of  battle  as  the 
military  physician  of  Charles  V. 

The  garden  which  surrounds  the  palace  is  adorned  with  a  marble 
statue  of  Quetelet,  the  astronomer  (1776-1874).  by  Fraikin,  erected 
in  1880  ( in  front  of  the  palace),  and  with  the  Victor,  a  bronze  figure 
by  J.  Geefs,  a  statue  of  Cain  by  Jehotte,  and  a  Discus-thrower  by 
Kessels  (at  the  back). 

In  the  Rue  de  la  Loi,  which  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  park,  rises 
the  Palais  de  la  Nation  (PL  E,  3),  erected  in  1779-83  from  a 
design  by  Guiniard  for  the  assemblies  of  the  old  Council  of  Brabant, 
used  as  the  Palais  des  Etats  Generaux  from  1817  to  1830,  and  now 
for  the  sittings  of  the  Belgian  Senate  and  the  Chamber  of  Deputies. 
The  reliefs  in  the  pediment,  by  Godecharle  (1782),  are  illustrative 
of  the  administration  of  justice.  The  interior  of  the  main  building 
was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire  in  1883  ,  but  it  has  since  been  com- 
pletely restored. 

The  buildings  adjoining  the  Palais  de  la  Nation  on  the  E.  and 
NY.  are  occupied  by  government-offices.  —  Opposite,  in  the  N.E. 
angle  of  the  park,  stands  the  building  known  as  Vauxhall  (PL  E, 
3,  4;  comp.  p.  76),  partly  occupied  by  the  Cercle  Artistique  et 
Litte'raire ;   near  it  is  the  Theatre  du  Pare  (PL  67). 

The  Rue  de  la  Loi  ends  at  the  Pare  du  Cinquantenaire,  formerly 
the  drill-ground  (see  Map,  p.  114),  in  which  rises  the  exhibition- 
building  of  1880,  now  known  as  the  Palais  du  Cinquantenaire. 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    lOlh  Edit.  6 


82    Route  V2.  BRUSSELS.  Musee  d'Art. 

The  North  Winy  contains  theMus^e  d' Art  Monumental  etindustriel, 
the  South  Wing  or  Palais  du  Peuple  is  to  contain  a  national  museum. 
These  wings  are  to  be  united  by  a  great  central  building.  A  separate 
pavilion  behind  accommodates  the  Musec  Scolaire  de  I'Etat. 

The  Musee  d'Art  Monumental  et  Industrial  ( adm.  see  p.  76) 
is  divided  into  three  sections. 

1.  MusKB  b'Art  Monumental,  in  the  main  hall  of  the  N.  wing, 
consisting  of  a  collection  of  casts  of  ancient  and  modern  ^\orks  of 
art.  Specially  noteworthy  are  the  reproductions  of  medieval  and 
Renaissance  sculptures  from  Oudenaarde,  Leau  [Church  of  St.  Leon- 
hard),  Louvain,  and  other  Flemish  towns. 

2.  Musee  d'Art  Dbcoratif,  in  the  outer  rooms  of  the  crescent- 
shaped  gallery  adjoining  the  main  hall,  entered  from  that  hall  and 
from  the  central  passage.  It  contains  designs  for  wall-paintings 
and  stained-glass,  copies  of  early  works,  etc. 

To  the  left  of  the  entrance:  Sketches  for  /''.  Oeselchap'' s  frcacoeB  in  the 
Arsenal  at  Berlin;  beneath,  coloured  .lapanese  pictures,  chiefly  of  the  18th 
century.  On  the  outer  (concave)  wall:  J.  Swerts,  St.  George;  J.  Diericks, 
Spring,  copy  after  Sandro  Botticelli  (Florence);  M.  Than,  Attila's  banquet 
(Pest)-,  beneath,  J.  Swerts,  Sketches  for  the  mural  decoration  of  the  cathedral 
at  Prjgue;  E.  Agneeseus,  Two  sketches  of  decorative  figures;  O.  Ouffens, 
Entry  of  Philip  the  Bold  into  Ypres  (p.  29);  farther  on,  on  the  same  wall, 
coloured  sketch  of  the  same.  Beneath,  X  Mellerif,  Drawings  ofthebron/e 
figures  at  the  Pctit-Sablon  (p.  101);  above,  and  elsewhere  in  the  hall, 
^V.  Geets,  Eight  patterns  for  the  tapestries  in  the  Gothic  hall  of  the  Hotel 
de  Ville  at  Brussels  (p.  103).  —  Farther  on,  copies  after  Rembrandt  (''de 
Staalmeesters  and  the  Night  Watch,  ]ip.  32G,  320),  11.  van  der  Goes,  F.  Hals, 
Van  Dyck,  JIurillo,  etc. ;  F.  Oeselsc/iap,  War,  large  cartoon  for  the  painting 
in  Berlin  (comp.  above);  Fuvis  de  C/iavanues,  Pro  patria  ludus,  cartoon 
for  the  painting  in  Amiens;  beneath,  //.  Z<5t)y,  Sermon  and  Death  of 
St.  Dionysius,  Coronation  of  Charlemagne  (at  St.  Merry  and  the  Pantheon 
in  Paris).  Then  J.  P.  Lauvensy  Sketches  for  ceiling-paintings;  Puvis  de 
Chavcirmes,  St.  Radegunda  in  the  convent  of  Ste.  Croix,  and  Charles  Martel 
victorious  over  the  Saracens,  two  smaller  cartoons  (Poitiers);  F.  Geselschap, 
Valhalla,  cartoon  for  the  painting  at  Berlin  (see  above);  O.  Guffens, 
Crusaders  under  Baldwin  IX.  of  Flanders  leaving  Courtrai,  large  cartoon 
(p.  56j;  beneath,  nine  designs  for  the  mural  decoration  of  the  Halles  at 
Ypres  (p.  28),  by  Ch.  Degroux. 

On  the  inner  wall :  Copies  after  Giotto,  Blasaccio,  Fra  Angelico,  Raphael, 
Titian,  Luini,  Primaticcio  (Fontainebleau),  Paolo  Veronese,  etc.,  by 
G.  Vanuise,  H.  Evrard,  X.  Mellery,  etc.  Cartoons  :  E.  Livy^  The  Wedding, 
The  Family  (Salle  des  Mariages  of  a  mairie  in  Paris)  ;  Fuvis  de  Chavannes, 
Legend  of  St.  Genevieve  (Pantheon  at  Paris) ;  H.  Livy^  Fraternity,  a  deco- 
rative painting.  At  various  points  throughout  the  hall  are  numerous 
designs  for  stained  windows  in  various  Belgian  churches,  by  B.  van  Orley, 
Th.  van  Thulden,  J.  de  la  Baei\  etc.  —  Finally  some  sculptures  :  A.  Strobl, 
Perseus;  reduced  copy  of  RaucWs  monument  to  Frederick  the  Great  in 
Berlin;  E.  Fremiet^  Joan  of  Arc  (Paris);  model  of  the  monument  of 
Breydel  and  De  Coninck  at  Bruges,  by  Devigne-Quyo. 

3.  Musee  d'Art  Industribl  Ancien,  in  the  inner  curve  of  the 
gallery,  which  is  divided  into  a  large  main  hall  and  five  side-rooms, 
somewhat  higher.  It  contains  the  antiquities  formerly  exhibited 
in  the  Porte  deHal  (p.  113).  Catalogues  for  some  of  the  sections  are 
published. 

Lakge  Room,  immediately  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  from  the 
main  hall  (see  above) :    Case   with  antique  bronze  articles  and  two  cases 


Muse'edArt.  BRUSSELS.  1-2.  Route.     83 

with  Egyptian  antiquities.    In  the  corner  and  the  central  range  mummies 
and  sarcophagi  from  Egypt ^  large  terracotta  funeral  urn;  inscriptions. 

Then  follow  24  tables  and  cases  with  articles  in  stone  (hatchets, 
hammers,  arrow  and  lance-heads,  etc.),  terracotta  (lamps,  figures,  dishes, 
cups,  Greek  and  Etruscan  vases,  Gallic  pottery,  etc.),  bronze,  and  iron 
(swords,  apear-heads,  hatchets,  helmets,  shields,  horse-shoes,  figures,  or- 
naments, some  of  gold,  etc.).  Two  cases  on  the  left  side  of  the  room 
contain  Koman  antiquities  in  bronze,  terracotta,  and  glass,  found  in  Belgium. 

In  the  centre  of  the  room  is  another  shiw-table  with  seals  and  im- 
pressions ;  and  two  tables  with  ancient  weights  and  measures.  Two  cases 
with  ivory  carvings:  to  the  left:  *i  Reliquary  shaped  like  a  Romanesque 
church  (from  the  middle  Rhine;  12th  cent.),  elephant's  tusk  with  Ro- 
manesque gold  mounting,  Romanesque  and  Gothic  book-covers,  etc.,  of 
the  ll-i5th  cent.;  large  Byzantine  diptych  (8th  cent.);  combs,  etc.;  to  the 
right:  15-17.  Goblets  with  very  fine  Renaissance  reliefs  (Triumph  of 
Bacchus;  Birth  of  Venus;  Battle  of  Amazons).  —  Three  cases  with  re- 
liquaries and  other  ecclesiastical  articles;  in  the  middle:  *22.  Head  of 
Pope  St.  Alexander,  in  silver,  on  an  enamelled  reliquary  (I2th  or  I3th 
cent.);  costly  reliquaries  in  gold,  adorned  with  enamels,  gems,  and  figures 
(13th  cent.);  to  the  lelt:  Byzantine  and  other  enamelled  crucifixes,  set 
with  jewels;  beneath.  Cross  in  rock-crystal  with  ivory  iigures  (13th  cent.) ; 
cups;  monstrances;  to  the  riuht:  reliquaries  in  the  shape  of  sarco- 
phagi or  small  altars,  Romanesque  (10-12th  cent.)  and  Gothic  (14th  cent.). 
—  The  following  large  case  contains  goldsmith's  work :  large  flat  di-^hes 
with  beaten  reliefs  (iC-17th  cent.);  goblets;  ostrich-egg  in  a  costly  setting ; 
crown  with  gems  (ilth  cent.);  insignia  of  the  presidents  of  a  guild; 
enamelled  plaques  with  Scriptural  scenes. 

liy  the  left  wall  are  two  cases  with  Coptic  embroideries,  antique  glass, 
and  ecclesiastical  sculptures;  carved  wooden  figures,  some  painted  and 
gilded;  Gothic  *Altar  in  carved  wood,  with  the  3Iartyrdom  of  St.  George, 
by  Johann  Borremans  (1493);  beneath,  Antependium',  with  stamped  gilt 
ornamentation  (17th  cent.).  To  the  right  and  left,  two  large  brasses,  with 
engraved  figures  (14th  and  16th  cent.).  Farther  on  is  a  case  with  various 
domestic  and  ecclesiastical  articles  in  bronze  and  other  metals  (locks, 
pitchers,  bowls,  platters,  candelabra,  small  bronze  sculptures,  bells,  cen- 
sers, etc.). 

In  the  middle  of  the  room:  Three  Gothic  choir-desks,  in  metal  (15th 
cent.);  two  large  metal  candelabra  (12-13th  cent.);  "Romanesque  font,  cast 
in  bronze  (12th  cent.),  with  noteworthy  figures  in  high  relief;  four  stone 
fonts  in  the  Romanesque  style  (12th  cent.)  and  one  in  the  Gothic  style 
(15th  cent.).  Then  a  case  with  Italian  faience:  platters  and  vessels ;  three 
cases  with  Dutch  and  German  earthenware;  jugs,  bowls,  etc.;  and  a  case 
with  porcelain  from  Tournai  and  Brussels  :  190.  Large  vase  with  floral  garlands 
(18th  cent.).  [There  are  two  special  catalogues  for  the  porcelain  and  faience 
collections.]      Case  with  ornamented  caskets  and  boxes  in  wood  and  metal. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  room  is  a  Gothic  altar  in  carved  wood, 
painted  and  gilded,  with  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ  (15th  or  16th  cent.). 
Opposite  is  a  case  with  Chinese  and  Japanese  faience  and  porcelain. 

In  the  middle  of  the  room:  Table  with  watches,  clocks,  etc.;  case 
with  Dresden  and  Sevres  china;  case  with  German  glass;  two  cases  with 
Venetian  glass;  table  with  Chinese  and  Japanese  porcelain;  table  with 
Chinese  ivory-c  irvings;  case  with  Brussels  lace;  case  with  lace  from 
Hungary  and  the  Balkan  Peninsula, 

Left  wall:  Case  with  ecclesiastical  vestments;  Gothic  altar  in  carved 
wood,  with  the  Martyrdoms  of  SS.  Ludgerus  and  Barbara  (1530) ;  beside  it, 
large  brass  with  engraved  figures  and  enamelled  coat-of-arms  (1554).  — 
In  the  middle  of  the  room :  Two  chariots,  a  sledge,  and  a  litter,  of  the 
18th  cent.  —  At  the  end  of  the  hall:  Funeral  monuments,  grave-slabs  of 
the  13-15th  cent.,  originally  inlaid  with  metal;  decorative  sculptures  from 
Gothic  buildings;  painted  and  stamped  tiles  of  the  16-17th  cent.;  Dutch 
wall-tiles,  with  pictures.  —  On  the  walls  of  the  hall  are  tapestries  of  the 
15-lSth  cent.,  chiefly  from  Brussels  and  Oudenaarde. 

The  1st  SiDE-RooJi  contains  Greek,   Roman,  and  Etruscan  antiquities 

6* 


84     Route  22.  BRUSSELS.  Muste  d'Art- 

in  terracotta  and  bronze,  forming  the  Musie  de  Ruvettein^  presented  to 
the  Museum  by  M.  de  Meester  de  llavestein,  for  fourteen  years  Belgian 
minister  at  the  Vatican.  There  ia  a  special  catalogue  of  this  collection, 
by  M.  Ravestein  himself  (1  fr.). 

Immediately  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  from  the  lower  room  arc 
two  wall-cases  with  Egyptian  antiquities  in  wood,  bronze,  terracotta,  ami 
stone.  —  By  the  window-wall  and  in  the  window  recesses  are  ten  cases 
with  an  extinsive  collection  of  bronze  articles:  tripods,  lamps,  candelabra, 
boxes,  vessels,  handles  and  liilts  of  various  shapes,  animals,  bells,  weapons, 
helmets,  greaves,  masks,  weights;  also  numerous  small  bronze  figures. 
In  Case  8  (beginning  from  the  rightj :  86U.  Victoria,  found  near  Dijon  ; 
861.  Mercury.  Case  9:  846.  Venus;  880.  Hercules;  835.  Minerva.  Casel<»: 
821.  Jupiter  with  the  thunderbolt  ^  yU3.  Ajax  plunging  his  sword  into  his 
breast  (of  doubtful  antiquity);  945.  Samnite  warrior.  —  Then  two  cases 
with  terracottas  from  Italy  and  Greece,  many  of  them  from  Tanagra: 
masks  and  heads;  reliefs  from  burial-urns;  vessels  from  Lower  Italy  in 
the  shape  of  animals'  heads,  etc. ;  4b6.  Terracotta  doll  found  at  Viterbo. 
The  case  in  the  last  window-recess  contains  oi)jects  in  iron,  bron-^e,  terra- 
cotta, glass,  stone,  etc.,  mostly  discovered  in  Belj^ium. 

The  important  Collection  of  ANxiyuji  Vases  begins  in  the  case  by 
the  left  end-wall  (next  Room  II.),  and  is  continued  in  three  cases  in  the 
middle  of  the  room.  1st  Case:  Early  Etruscan  vases,  Idack  with  stamped 
or  scratched  ornamentation;  Corinthian  vases  of  the  6th  cent.  B.C., 
adorned  with  bands  of  animals,  figures,  etc.,  including  narrow  Lekythoi 
(filled  with  perfumes  to  be  used  at  burials)  and  round  AlaOastra  or  oint- 
ment-vessels. —  2nd  Case:  Specimens  illustrating  the  developed  Greek 
ceramic  art  of  the  5th  and  4th  cent.  B.C.;  large  panathensian  amphont, 
with  a  figure  of  Athene  in  front  and  an  athletic  contest  behind,  the 
figures  being  black  on  a  red  ground.  To  the  later  style  (red  figures  on 
a  black  ground)  belong  the  drinking-vessels  in  the  lower  rows,  the  three 
largest  of  which  (to  the  right)  are  adorned  with  dances  of  satyrs  and 
maenads  or  drinking-scenes  in  harmony  with  the  destined  use  of  the 
vessels.  In  the  upper  row :  389.  Vase  with  black  figures,  signed  JVikos- 
thenes;  408.  Vase  from  Cumee,  with  bands  of  figures  in  gilt-relief.  — 
3rd  Case:  Vases  from  Lower  Italy,  dating  from  the  period  of  decadence 
(4th-2nd  cent.  B.C.),  extravagant  in  form  and  decoration.  Also  black  and 
red  vases  with  stamped  figures.  —  4th  Case:  303.  Larjie  wide  vase,  with 
a  battle  of  Centaurs:  beside  it.  305.  306.  Theseus  overcoming  the  Mino- 
taur ;  beneath.  291-296.  Labours  of  Hercules.  —  Between  Cases  1  and  2 
are  six  show-tables  with  a  valuable  and  well-arranged  collection  of  po- 
lished specimens  of  different  coloured  marbles.  Between  Cases  2  and  3,  a 
table  with  cut  stones  and  paste  imitations,  and  three  tables  with  Roman 
and  other  terracotta  lamps,  with  stamped  figures.  Between  Cases  3  and 
4,  two  tables  with  Roman  coins  of  the  republic;  large  gold  medal  pre- 
sented by  Pius  IX.  to  31.  de  Ravestein  who  escorted  him  to  Gaeta  in  1848; 
two  tables  with  glass  vessels  and  Tieads,  and  pieces  of  coloured  glass-paste. 
In  the  centre.  Bust  of  M.  de  Ravestein.  On  the  other  side  of  Case  4  is 
!l  table  with  ornaments:  1478.  Etruscan  head-dress  (from  a  tomb);  rosette 
and  leaves  of  thin  gold,  earrings,  gold  and  bronze  necklaces,  armlets ; 
amber  beads,  etc. ;  behind,  finger-rings  and  fibular.  —  Table  with  small 
bronze  articles,  keys,  portions  of  locks,  nails,  knives,  spoons,  surgical 
instruments,  amulets;  in  front,  to  the  left,  small  flat  leaden  figures,  votive 
ofierings  found  near  Viterbo;  to  the  right,  Etruscan  and  Roman  ivory 
and  bone-carvings.  —  Finally  two  tables  with  bronze  mirrors,  most  of 
which  are  Etruscan  with  long  handles  and  engraved  figures;  round  mirror- 
cases,  with  figures  in  relief;  1301.  Greek  mirror  with  an  archaic  winged 
female  figure  as  handle. 

Side-Rooms  II-V.  contain  furniture  and  wood-carvings  of  the  15-18th 
cent. :  cabinets,  chests,  tables,  chairs,  chimney-pieces,  altar-pieces,  etc. 

Room  II.  Carved  Gothic  oak  pulpit,  with  the  four  evangelists;  Gothic 
oak  confessional  (l6thcent.);  late  Gothic  altar-piece  in  carved  wood,  with 
the  Passion  and  the  Resurrection ;  above.  Carved  Gothic  oak  gallery,  with 
figures  of  the  Apostles  (15th  cent.).  —  In  the  centre  of  the  room  are  three 


Cathedral.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.     85 

tables  with  iiupres?iuns  of  seals  ia  terracotta;  Italian  desk,  with  carved 
reliefs  (16th  cent.)- 

Room  III.  Early  Gothic  altar-piece  (or  antependium?),  with  painted 
scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Peter  (13th  cent);  carved  and  painted  Gothic 
cradle,  made  for  Maximilian  I.  and  said  to  he  the  cradle  of  Charles  V., 
a  bronze  bust  of  whom  is  placed  beside  it.  In  the  middle  room,  a  table 
with  artistic  French  locksmiths'  work  (15-16th  cent). 

Room  IV.  Large  Flemish  marble  chimney-piece,  with  carved,  inlaid, 
and  painted  wooden  top  (17th  cent);  carved  wood  ornaments  for  a  pic- 
ture-frame (17th  cent.).  In  the  middle  of  the  room,  'shuw-case  with  Li- 
moge-s  enamel  (16th  cent);  plaq\ie  with  head  of  Jupiter;  flat  dishes,  etc. 
—  Room  V.     Flemish  room. 

The  Musee  Scolaire  National  (admission,  see  p.  76)  is  a  con- 
siderable collection  of  educational  appliances,  of  Belgian  and  foreign 
origin.  The  1st  Room  shows  the  developement  of  Froebel's  system  ; 
the  two  following  rooms  contain  appliances  for  use  in  primary 
schools  (Ecoles  Primaires)  and  in  teachers'  seminaries  (Ecoles  Nor- 
males),  and  work  by  school-children. 

In  the  Rue  Royalb  [PL  E,  4-1),  midway  between  the  Rue  de  la 
Loi  and  the  lloulevard  Botanique,  is  situated  the  Place  du  Congres, 
adorned  with  the  Colonne  du  Congres  (PL  10;  E,  3),  a  monument 
erected  to  commemorate  the  Congress  of  4th  June,  1831,  by  which 
the  present  constitution  of  Belgium  was  established,  and  Prince  Leo- 
pold of  Saxe-Cobourg  elected  king.  The  column,  of  the  Doric  order, 
147  ft.  in  height,  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  the  king  in  bronze, 
by  W.  Geefs.  The  nine  figures  in  relief  below,  representing  the 
different  provinces  of  Belgium,  are  by  Simonis.  The  female  figures 
in  bronze  at  the  four  corners  are  emblematical  of  the  Liberty  of  the 
Press,  the  Liberty  of  Education,  both  by  Jos.  Geefs,  the  Liberty  of 
Associations,  by  Fraikin,  and  the  Liberty  of  Public  Worship,  by 
Simonis.  The  names  of  the  members  of  the  Congress  and  of  the  pro- 
visional government  of  1830  are  recorded  on  marble  tablets.  The 
summit,  which  is  reached  by  a  spiral  staircase  of  192  steps  (trifling 
fee  to  the  custodian),  commands  a  magnificent  panorama.  The  two 
bronze  lions  at  the  door  are  by  Simonis.  The  foundation-stone  of  the 
column  was  laid  by  King  Leopold  I.  in  1850,  and  the  inauguration 
took  place  in  1859.  At  the  foot  of  the  flight  of  steps  which  descend 
to  the  lower  part  of  the  town  arc  situated  two  Marches  Converts. 

The  Rue  Royale ,  with  its  continuation  the  Rue  de  la  Regence, 
presents  a  very  striking  appearance  as  viewed  from  the  Place  Royale, 
e.g.  in  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Bellevue  (PL  a;  E,  4),  whence  we 
<ommand  the  entire  range  of  imposing  buildings  from  the  Palais  de 
Justice  (p.  103)  to  the  church  of  Ste.  Marie  at  Schaerbeek  (p.  111). 

The  ^Cathedral  (Ste.  Gudule  et  St.  Michel;  PL  E,  3)  in  the 
vicinity,  situated  on  a  somewhat  abrupt  slope  overlooking  the  lower 
part  of  the  town,  is  an  imposing  Gothic  church  consisting  of  nave 
and  aisles,  with  a  retro-choir,  and  deep  bays  resembling  chapels. 
The  church  was  begun  about  the  year  1220,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
building,  consecrated  in  1047.  A  few  traces  of  the  transitional 
style  of  this  period  are  still  observable  in  the  retro-choir.    The 


86     Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Cathedral. 

rest  of  the  choir,  the  transept,  the  arcades  of  the  nave,  and  the  S. 
aisle  are  early-Gothic,  and  -^ere  completed  in  1273.  The  N.  aisle, 
and  the  vaulting  and  windows  of  the  nave  were  constructed  between 
1350  and  1450.  The  windows  of  the  high  choir  and  the  unfinished 
W.  towers  date  from  the  15th  cent.,  the  large  (N.)  chapel  of  the 
Sacrament  from  1534-39,  the  (S.)  chapel  of  Notre  Dame  de  Deli- 
vrance  from  1649-53,  and  the  whole  was  restored  in  1848-56.  The 
facade  in  its  principal  features  rather  resembles  the  German  than 
the  French  Gothic  style.  The  numerous  statuettes  recently  placed 
in  the  niches  and  consoles  of  the  portal  are  unfortunately  out  of 
keeping  with  the  Gothic  character  of  the  building.  TheW.  entrance 
is  approached  by  a  handsome  flight  of  steps,  completed  in  1861. 

The  Interior  (the  works  of  art  are  shown  from  12  to  4  only,  when 
1  fr.,  or,  if  a  party,  50  c.  each,  must  be  contributed  to  the  funds  of  the 
church,  besides  which  the  sacristan  expects  a  fee  for  opening  the  chapels ; 
entrance  by  the  S.  transept)  is  of  simple  but  noble  proportions,  and 
measTires  118  yds.  in  length  by  55  yds.  in  breadth.  The  nave  rests  on 
twelve  round  pillars  and  six  buttresses,  the  choir  on  ten  round  columns. 

The  beautiful  -Stained  Glass  dates  from  different  periods,  from  the  13th 
cent,  down  to  modern  times.  The  finest  is  that  in  the  *ChapeIi  of  the 
Sacrament  (N.  ;  adjoining  the  choir  on  the  left),  consisting  of  five  windows 
presented  in  1540-47  by  five  of  the  most  powerful  Roman  Catholic  poten- 
tates of  Europe,  in  honour  of  certain  wonder-working  Hosts  (comp. 
p.  108).  Each  window  bears  the  portraits  of  the  donors  with  their  patron- 
saints  :  1st  window  (beginning  from  the  left),  John  III.  of  Portugal  and 
his  queen  Catherine,  a  sister  of  Charles  V.  •,  2nd,  Louis  of  Hungary  and 
his  queen  IMaria.  another  sister  of  Charles  V;  *3rd,  Francis  I.  of  France 
and  his  queen  Eleonora,  a  third  sister  of  Charles  V.;  4th,  Ferdinand  I. 
of  Austria,  brother  of  Charles  V.,  and  his  queen;  5th  (above  the  altar) 
Charles  V.  and  his  queen  Eleonora  Louise.  The  first  two  windows  were 
executed  by  Jan  ffaeck  from  designs  by  Michael  Coxie.,  the  third  is  by 
Bernard  van  Orlei/,  and  the  fifth  is  a  skilful  modern  reproduction  (1848), 
by  Capronnier  from  designs  by  Navez,  of  the  old  one,  which  had  been  un- 
fortunately destroyed.  The  representations  in  the  upper  half  of  the  win- 
dows depict  the  story  of  the  Hosts,  which  were  stolen  by  Jews  and  sacri- 
legiously transfixed  in  their  synagogue.  The  scofl"ers  were  so  terrified  by 
their  miraculous  bleeding  that  they  determined  to  restore  them-,  but  their 
crime  was  denounced  and  expiated  by  death.  The  top  of  the  5th  window 
represents  the  adoration  of  the  Lamb  and  the  Sacred  Hosts.  The  Gothic 
altar  in  carved  wood  (by  Goyers,  1849)  is  beautifully  executed. 

The  windows  of  the  Chapel  of  Notre  Dame  DEDfeLivRANCE  (S.  side), 
executed  in  1656  by  J.  de  la  Baer  of  Antwerp,  from  designs  by  Theod. 
van  Tftvlden,  are  inferior  both  in  drawing  and  colouring  to  those  just 
described,  but  are  notwithstanding  excellent  examples  of  17th  cent,  art 
(school  of  Eubens).  They  represent  episodes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin, 
with  portraits  of  Archduke  Leopold  (d.  1662),  Archduke  Albert  (d.  1621), 
and  the  Archduchess  Isabella  Clara  Eugenia  (d.  1633)-,  then  Emp.  Ferdi- 
nand II.  (d.  1658)  and  Leopold  I.  (d.  1705).  The  same  chapel  contains  a 
~ Momtment  in  marble,  by  W.  Geefs,  to  Count  Frederick  de  Merode.,  who  fell  in 
a  skirmish  with  the  Dutch  at  Berchem  in  1830.  The  armorial  bearings 
of  the  Merode  family  have  the  commendable  motto:  ^Plus  d'honnetir  que 
d''honneurs\  Over  the  monument,  the  Assumption,  a  large  modern  pic- 
ture by  Navez.  This  chapel  also  contains  a  marble  monument  to  Count 
Philip  'Balthazar  de  Merode  (d.  1857).  an  elder  brother  of  the  last-named, 
a  well-known  Belgian  statesman,  by  Fraikin,  and  one  of  the  Spanish  general 
Count  Isenhurg-Grenzau  (d.  1664),  "the  last  of  a  noble  Rhenish  family. 

The  five  stained-glass  windows  of  the  High  Choir,  dating  from  the 
middle  of  the  l6th  cent.,  contain  portraits  of  Maximilian  of  Austria  and 
his  queen  Mary   of  Burgundy,   their  son  Philippe  le  Bel   and   his   queen 


Banque  Nationnle.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.     87 

Johanna  of  Castile;  Emp.  Charles  V.  and  Ferdinand,  sons  of  the  latter; 
Philip  II.,  son  of  Charles  V.,  with  his  first  wife,  Maria  of  Portugal;  Phi- 
libert.  Duke  of  Savoy,  and  Margaret  of  Austria.  —  Below  is  the  monument 
of  Duke  John  II.  of"  Brabant  (d.  1312)  and  his  duchess  Margaret  of  York, 
in  black  marble,  with  a  recumbent  lion  in  gilded  copper,  cast  in  1610 ; 
opposite  to  it,  the  monument,  with  recumbent  figure,  of  Archduke  Ernest 
(d.  1595),  brother  of  Emp.  Rudolph  II.  and  stadtholder  of  the  Isetherlands. 
Both  monuments  were  erected  by  Archduke  Albert  (brother  of  Ernest)  in 
1610.  A  white  marble  slab  covers  the  entrance  to  the  burial-vaults  of 
the  princes  of  the  House  of  Austria. 

The  Retro-Choir  contains  four  stained-glass  windows  executed  by  Ca- 
pronnier  in  1879  from  designs  by  Xavez;  the  subjects  are  taken  from  the 
history  of  the  Patriarchs  and  the  Children  of  Israel,  from  the  life  of  Christ, 
and  from  the  history  of  the  Christian  church.  —  In  the  rococo  chapel 
behind  the  high-altar  is  an  altar  from  the  Abbaye  de  la  Cambre  (p.  115). 
The  stained  glass,  bearing  figures  of  saints  and  the  arms  of  the  Merode 
family,  is  also  by  Capronniev  (1843). 

Traxsept.  ^Stained  glass:  Charles  V.  and  his  queen,  with  their 
patron-saints  (N.);  Louis  III.  of  Hungary  and  his  queen,  by  Bernard  van 
Orley^  1538  (S.).  Opposite  the  N.  chapel,  winged  picture  representing 
scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Gudule,  by  Coxie  (1592);  opposite  the  S. 
chapel.  Crucifixion,  by  the  same  artist. 

The  well-executed  and  richly-coloured  stained  glass  in  the  Nave  is 
all  by  Capronnier,  having  been  presented  by  the  king,  the  royal  family, 
and  wealthy  Belgian  citizens,  and  put  up  in  1860-80;  the  subjects  also 
refer  to  the  story  of  the  stolen  Hosts  (see  p.  86),  beginning  in  the  S. 
aisle,  by  the  transept.  The  window  of  the  W.  Portal,  a  Last  Judgment 
by  F.  Floris,  remarkable  for  the  crowd  of  figures  it  contains,  dates  from 
1528,  but  has  been  frequently  restored.  Four  of  the  massive  statues  of  the 
Twelve  Apostles  on  the  pillars  of  the  nave  (Paul,  Bartholomew,  Thomas, 
Matthew)  are  by  Jer.  Duquesnoy;  three  others  (John.  Andrew,  Thaddseus) 
are  by  Fayd'herbe  (d.  1694).  The  -Pulpit.,  originally  in  the  church  of  the 
Jesuits  at  Louvain,  was  executed  in  1699  by  the  celebrated  Verbruggen. 
It  is  a  representation  in  carved  wood  of  the  Expulsion  from  Paradise. 
Among  the  foliage  are  all  kinds  of  animals,  —  a  bear,  dog,  cat,  fox, 
eagle,  vulture,  peacock,  owl,  dove,  squirrel,  ape  eating  an  apple,  etc. 
Above  is  the  Virgin  with  the  Child,  who  crushes  the  head  of  the  serpent 
with  the  cross.  —  In  the  aisles :  confessionals  by  Van  Delen  (18th  cent.) ;  in 
the  S.  aisle  is  the  monument  of  Canon  Trie^t  "(d.  1846).  noted  at  Brussels 
for  his  benevolence,  by  Eug.  Simonis;  a  marble  monument  to  Count  Cornet 
de  Ways-Ruart .,  by  Gee/K,  1872  (Faith  supporting  old  age  and  elevating 
youth).  The  marble-reliefs  of  the  stations  on  the  way  to  Calvary  are  by 
P.  Puyenhroeck.  Some  of  the  tombstones  of  the  16th  cent,  deserve  notice. 
The  government  and  the  city  have  for  many  years  expended  considerable 
sums  annually  on  the  embellishment  of  the  sacred  edifice. 

The  Tower  commands  a  beautiful  view;  ascent,  1  pers.  2  fr.,  2  or 
more  pers.  8  fr. 

The  handsome  new  huilding  opposite  the  cathedral,  to  the 
N.,  is  the  *Banque  Nationale  (PI.  4 ;  E,  3),  one  of  the  best  modern 
buildings  in  Brussels,  designed  by  H.  Beyaert  and  Janssens^  and 
exhibiting  a  free  treatment  of  the  Louis  XVI.  style.  The  allegori- 
cal figures  of  Industry  and  Commerce  over  the  pediment  are  by 
Wiener,  the  rest  of  the  sculptural  ornamentation  by  Houtstout.  The 
interior  is  also  worth  inspection  (entrance  in  the  Rue  Berlaimont). 

To  the  E.  of  Ste.  Gudule,  between  the  Rue  de  Ligne  and  the 
Rue  Treurenberg  (PL  E,  3),  are  a  tower  and  a  passage,  relics  of 
the  old  wall  of  1040  (p.  77). 


The  Place  Rotale  (PL  E,  4),  adjacent  to  the  S.W.  corner  of 


88     Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Royal  Library. 

the  Park,  owes  its  present  appearance  to  the  architect  Guimard, 
1778  (comp.  p.  801.  On  the  left  stands  the  church  of  St.  Jacques 
sur  Caudenber g  (Fro idmoni,  'cold  mountain';  PI.  16),  a  handsome 
and  chaste  edifice  with  a  portico  of  the  Corinthian  order,  begun  by 
Guimard  in  1776  on  the  site  of  an  old  Augustine  abbey,  and  com- 
pleted by  Montoyer  in  1785.  Above  the  portico  are  statues  of  Moses 
by  Olivier,  and  David  by  Janssens.  The  tympanum  contains  a  fresco, 
by  Portaels,  representing  the  Virgin  as  the  comforter  of  the  afflicted 
(1852).  The  interior  contains,  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  choir, 
allegorical  figures  of  the  Old  and  New  Testament,  by  Godecharle. 

In  front  of  the  church  rises  the  equestrian  *Statue  of  Godfrey 
deBonillon  (PI.  60),  thehero  of  the  first  Crusade,  grasping  the  banner 
of  the  Cross  in  his  right  hand,  probably  the  finest  modern  Belgian 
work  of  the  kind,  designed  by  Simonis.  It  was  erected  in  1848,  on 
the  spot  where,  in  1097,  Godfrey  is  said  to  have  exhorted  the 
Flemings  to  participate  in  the  Crusade,  and  to  have  concluded  his 
appeal  with  the  words  'Diew  li  voW  (God  wills  it). 

Opposite  is  the  Montagxb  di?  la  Cour,  which  contains  several 
of  the  most  attractive  shops  in  Brussels,  and  through  which,  in  spite 
of  its  steepness,  passes  a  constant  stream  of  omnibuses,  carriages, 
and  other  vehicles  (comp.  p.  107).  —  To  the  S.W.,  between  the 
palace  of  the  Count  of  Flanders  and  the  new  Palais  des  Beaux- Arts, 
diverges  the  Rue  de  la  Regence  (p.  93). 

The  archway  in  the  W.  angle  of  the  Place  Royale  leads  to  the 
oblong  Place  bu  Muskb  (PI.  D,  4),  the  right  side  of  which  is  flank- 
ed by  the  hotels  and  restaurants  mentioned  at  pp.  72,  73,  while  to 
the  left  rises  the  Royal  Library  (PI.  5),  with  a  court  facing  the 
street  and  separated  from  it  by  a  stone  balustrade.  In  the  court  is  a 
statue  in  bronze  (by  Jehotte,  1846)  of  Buke  Charles  of  Lorraine 
(p.  78).  Behind  the  statue  is  the  entrance  to  the  Library,  which  con- 
sists of  six  departments :  (1)  Printed  Books ;  (2)  MSS. ;  (3)  Engrav- 
ings and  Maps;  (4)  Coins  and  Medals;  (5)  Offices;  (6)  Periodicals. 

The  Department  of  the  Printed  Books  (300,000  vols.)  is  in  the  left 
wing  of  the  Palais  de  Tlndustrie.  The  nucleus  of  the  collection  was  the 
library  of  a  M.  van  Hulthem.  purchased  by  the  state  in  1837  for  315.000  fr., 
and  incorporated  with  the  old  municipal  library.  Hhe  Library  Hall  (10-3; 
in  summer  10-4;  closed  during  Passion  Week)  contains  a  series  of  portraits 
of  the  sovereigns  of  the  country  down  to  Maria  Theresa  and  Joseph  II.  In 
a  cabinet  here  are  exhibited  some  beautiful  Chinese  drawings.  The  Cham- 
bers grant  an  annual  subsidy  of  60-65.000  fr.  for  the  support  of  the  Library. 

The  Department  of  the  MSS.  consists  chiefly  of  the  celebrated  Biblio- 
thhque  de  Bourgogne^  founded  in  the  15th  cent,  by  Philippe  le  Bon,  Duke 
of  Burgundy,  and  contains  about  12,000  3ISS.,  comprising  many  of  great 
value.  It  is  especially  rich  in  missals,  some  of  which  are  illuminated 
with  beautiful  miniatures  of  the  old  Flemish  school.  Worthy  of  notice 
are:  the  missal  of  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy,  by  Attavante  of  Florence  (1485), 
afterwards  in  possession  of  Matthew  Corvinus,  King  of  Hungary;  the 
chronicles  of  Hainault  in  seven  folio  volumes  with  miniature  illustra- 
tions, and  an  illustrated  title-page  (the  author  Jacques  de  Guise  presenting 
bis  work  to  Philip  the  Good),  ascribed,  though  without  sufficient  grounds, 
to  Roger  van  der  Weyden;  and  a  copy  of  Xenophon's  Cyropaedia,  used  by 
Charles  th*  Bold.     Also,    '■Pardon   accorde  par   Charles  V.   aux   Oantois' 


Musee  ^foderne.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Eotite.    89 

(p.  44)  of  1540,  MSS.  as  far  back  as  the  Ttb  cent.,  playing-cards  mann- 
factured  at  Ulm  in  1594.  autographs  of  Francis  I.,  Henri'  IV.,  Philip  II., 
Alva.  Lnther.  Voltaire.  Rubens,  etc.  Most  of  the  books  in  the  Burgun- 
dian  Library  are  bound  in  red  morocco.  The  most  valuable  MSS.  have 
twice  been  carried  away  to  Paris  by  the  French. 

The  admirably-arranged  Co??ec^!Ort  of  Engravings  f60,000  in  number)  is 
worthy  of  notice ;  it  is  entered  from  the  3Iuse'e  de  Peinture.  The  Flemish 
masters  are  admirably  represented.  One  of  the  most  interesting  plates  is 
an  engraving  of  1418,  found  at  Malines.  —  The  Collection  of  Coins  is  also 
(if  importance;  adm,  12-3,  entrance  Rue  du  3Iusee  5. 

L'Ancienne  Cour,  a  building  adjoining  the  Palais  de  I'lndustric 
on  the  E.,  was  the  residence  of  the  Austrian  stadtholders  of  the 
Netherlands  after  1731,  when  the  old  ducal  palace  (in  the  present 
Place  Royale)  was  destroyed  hy  fire.  Part  of  the  ground-floor  is 
now  fitted  up  as  a  library  and  part  contains  the  cabinet  of  natural 
history  (p.  112;  entrance  from  the  court),  while  on  the  upper  story 
are  the  collection  of  modern  paintings,  and  rooms  used  for  art- 
exhibitions,  etc.  (to  the  right  of  the  rotundal.  The  chapel  to  the 
right  of  the  entrance,  erected  in  1760,  and  devoted  to  Protestant 
worship  in  1803,  is  known  as  the  J^glisedu  3/wsee  (French  and  Ger- 
man services  on  Sundays). 

The  *Musee  Moderne  embraces  upwards  of  220  paintings  and 
40  water-colour  and  other  drawings,  etc.,  displayed  in  8  rooms  for- 
merly occupied  by  the  gallery  of  ancient  art,  which  is  now  removed 
to  the  Palais  des  Beaux-Arts  (p.  93),  There  is  no  catalogue.  In 
the  following  description  the  paintings  upon  wall  A  (comp.  the  Plan, 
p.  90),  in  each  room,  are  first  noticed,  then  those  on  walls  B,  C,  D. 
The  rearrangement  of  the  paintings  occasioned  by  the  art-exhibi- 
tion of  1890  is  not  yet  finally  determined,  so  that  the  previous 
order  is  followed  in  the  following  description. 

The  Entbancb  (comp.  p.  77)  is  in  the  crescent  at  the  N.W. 
end  of  the  Place  du  Muse'e.  From  the  circular  entrance-hall  we 
proceed  through  the  glass-door  to  the  left  to  the  staircase,  at  the 
foot  of  which  is  a  statue  of  Hercules  by  Delvaux.  Sticks  and  um- 
brellas are  left  here  with  the  custodian  (no  charge).  At  the  top  of 
the  staircase  we  reach  another  rotunda,  where  a  door  to  the  left  leads 
to  the  Musee  Moderne.  The  hall  has  recently  undergone  an  exten- 
sive restoration.  The  staircase  is  of  marble  ,  and  the  lower  part  of 
the  walls  is  covered  with  the  same  material.  The  upper  part  is  oc- 
cupied by  plastic  decorations  in  the  style  of  Louis  XYI.  5  the  ceiling- 
frescoes,  representing  the  seasons,  are  by  J.  Stallaert. 

Room  I.  is  at  present  empty. 

Room  n.  contains  water-colours,  drawings,  designs,  crayons, 
etc.,  by  various  Belgian  masters;  also  cartoons. 

Room  III.  F.  de  Braekeleer,  The  Golden  Wedding ;  Carpentiers^ 
Strangers;  F.  de  Braekeleer ^  Distribution  of  fruit  at  a  school  ('le 
comte  de  micareme') ;  Gudin,  Sea-piece ;  C.  de  Groux,  Recruits 
departing;  Baron,  Landscape;  Vaneycken,  Episode  in  the  life  of 
Francesco  Mazzuoli;  Chabry,  Ruins  of  Thebes  (Egypt);  Vanderhecht, 
Landscape;  E.  de  Block,  Reading  the  Bible. 


90     Route  12. 


BRUSSELS. 


Musee 


Room  IV.  Wall  B.  Louis  Robbe,  Landscape  with  cattle;  C  de 
Vigne^  Sunday  raorning  in  ^vinter;  aljove,  Ch.  Verlat,  Sheep-dog  and 
eagle;  Smits,  The  seasons;  A.  de  Knyff,  The  deserted  gravel-pit; 
*Louis  Gallait^  Abdication  of  Emperor  Charles  V.,  a  masterpiece  of 
composition,  drawing,  and  colouring (1841).  Charles  V.  is  under  the 
canopy  of  the  throne,  supported  on  the  left  by  William  of  Orange,  at 
his  feet  kneels  his  son  Philip  II.,  on  his  right  is  his  sister  Maria  of 
Hungary  in  an  arm-chair.  —  Jos.  Stevens,  Morning  in  the  streets  of 


Brussels  (1848) ;  Al.  Markelbach,  Rhetoricians  of  Antwerp  prepar- 
ing for  a  debate  (comp.  p.  96);  F.  Bossuet,  Procession  of  patron- 
saints  in  Seville;  above,  J.  Kindermans,  Scene  in  the  Ardennes ; 
above,  Eug.  Verboeckhoven,  Shepherd  in  the  Roman  Campagna; 
above,  C.  E.  G.  Wappers,  Charles  I.  on  the  way  to  the  scaffold.  — 
Wall  C.  J.  Rohie,  Flowers  and  fruit ;  Fr.  Stroobant,  The  old  guild- 
houses  in  the  market-place  at  Brussels.  —  WaU  D.  P.  van  der 
Ouderaa  ,  The  last  refuge  (the  family  Mundi  of  Douai  saved  by  the 
Clarissine  nuns  from  the  Spaniards  during  the  sack  of  Antwerp, 
Nov.  4th,  1576);  J.  B.  van  Moer,  Interior  of  the  church  of  Santa 
Maria  at  Belem  (near  Lisbon);  N.  de  Keyset,  Justus  Lipsius; 
above,  Charles  de  Groux,  Junius  preaching  the  Reformation  in  a 
house  at  Antwerp,  with  the  light  from  the  stake  shining  through  the 


Mod  erne. 


BRUSSELS.  2  2.  Rouie.     91 


window;  above,  J.  ran  Leriu^,  Erasmus;  *L.  Gallait,  The  Plague 
in  Tournai  (1092),  one  of  the  artist's  most  celebrated  pictures 
(finished  in  1882).  The  picture  represents  the  moment  when  the 
procession,  arranged  by  Bishop  Radbold  IT.  to  intercede  for  the  with- 
drawal of  the  pestilence,  is  leaving  the  church  and  passing  under 
an  archway  which  leads  to  the  most  densely  populated  part  of  the 
town.  The  Bishop  walks  in  front  in  penitential  robes,  followed  by 
the  chief  citizens  bearing  a  figure  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  —  F.  Rof- 
fiaen,  Monte  Eosa  from  the  Eiffel. 

EooM  V.  Wall  A.  A.  de  Knyff,  Forest  of  Stolen.  —  WaU  B. 
Lybaert,  St.  Magdalene;  £".  ^Zmg^enct/er,  Battle  of  Lepanto  ;  C.  Tschng- 
qeny,  Diligence  in  the  Ardennes;  above,  J.  Stevens^  Dog-market  in 
iParis.  —  Wall  C.  Clays,  Coast  near  Ostend  (1863),  Antwerp  Roads ; 
Leys,  .Toyful  entry  of  Charles  V.  into  Antwerp  (repetition  of  the 
fresco  in  the  Hotel  de  Ville  at  Antwerp,  see  p.  147).  —  Wall  D. 
J.  Coomans,  The  'Loving  Cup';  A.  Verwee,  Cattle;  *J.  Verhas, 
Review  of  the  Schools  (on  the  occasion  of  the  silver  wedding  of  the 
King  and  Queen  of  the  Belgians  in  1878),  a  well-known  picture. 
The  procession,  headed  by  girls  in  white  dresses  led  by  their 
teachers,  is  passing  the  Palace,  in  front  of  which  are  the  King  and 
Queen,  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  and  the  Count  of  Flanders,  with 
their  suites.  The  burgomaster  and  sheriffs  of  Brussels  are  also  in 
the  procession.    All  the  heads  are  portraits. 

Room  YI.  Wall  A.  J.  B.  Mndou,  The  mischief-maker  (Flemish 
scene,  18th  cent.l;  L.  Gallait,  Conquest  of  Antioch.  —  Wall  B.  T. 
Fourmois,  The  mill;  *H.  Leys,  Funeral  mass  for  Berthall  de  Haze, 
armourer  of  Antwerp.  —  Wall  C.  A.  Stevens,  Ladybird.  —  Wall  D. 
J.  Robie,  Grapes;  L.  Gallait.  Art  and  Liberty;  E.Delacroix,  Apollo 
and  the  Python,  a  sketch.  —  In  the  corners:  L.  Gallait,  Full-length 
portraits  of  Leopold  II.  and  his  queen.  In  another  corner  is  a  costly 
Sevres  vase,  presented  by  the  French  Republic. 

Room  VII.  Wall  A.  Huherti,  Landscape;  above,  J.  Quinaur, 
Scene  in  Dauphine';  to  the  right  of  the  door,  Meunier,  Peasants  of 
Brabant  defending  themselves  in  1797.  —  Wall  B.  F.  Courtens, 
Return  from  church  (afternoon) ;  J.  B.  van  Moer,  View  of  Brussels 
(1868);  C.Hermans,  Morning  in  the  streets  of  Brussels;  J.  Lies, 
Prisoners  of  war;  F.  v.  Leemputten,  Peasants  going  to  work.  — 
Wall  C.  *C.  Cluysenaar,  Canossa.  —  Wall  D.  E.  J.Verhoeck- 
hoven,  Flock  of  sheep  in  a  thunder-storm  (1839) ;  A.  de  Vriendt, 
Citizens  of  Ghent  doing  homage  at  the  cradle  of  Charles  V.;  J.  T. 
Coosemans.  Fir-wood  by  twilight;  Dillens,  Austrian  wooers  in  the 
Netherlands ;  above,  E.  de  Pratere,  Farm-horses. 

We  now  enter  the  — 

Large  Gallery,  which  is  divided  by  clustered  columns  into 
five  sections.  Beside  the  pillars  are  four  bronze  or  marble  busts  of 
Flemish  painters. 

Fifth  Section.  Wall  B.    Hamesse,  Landscape:  Gallait,  Portrait; 


02    Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Miw'e  Moderne. 

Beernacrt,  Edge  of  a  wood  in  Zealand;  *£J.  de  Biefve,  The  Compro- 
mise, or  Petition  of  the  Netherlandish  nobles  in  1565.  Count  Hoorn  is 
represented  as  signing  the  document,  Egmontin  an  arm-chair;  at  the 
table  Philip  de  Marnix,  in  a  suit  of  armour;  in  the  foreground  Wil- 
liam of  Orange,  in  a  dark-blue  garment;  beside  him,  Martigny  in 
-white  satin,  and  behind  him  the  Due  d'Arenbcrg.  The  Count  Bre- 
dcrode,  under  the  portico  to  the  left,  is  inviting  others  to  embrace 
the  good  cause.  This  picture  and  Gallait's  Abdication  of  Charles  V. 
mark  a  new  epocli  in  the  history  of  modern  Belgium  art.  They  -were 
exhibited  in  most  of  the  European  capitals  in  1843,  where  they 
gained  universal  admiration,  and  they  have  contributed  materially 
to  the  development  of  the  realistic  style  of  painting,  in  which 
colour  plays  so  prominent  a  part.  —  Boulenger,  Autumn  morning ; 
Gallait,  Lady  and  child  (portraits).  —  Wall  C.  J.  Impens,  Flemish 
tavern;  H.  de  Caisnes,  Belgium  crowning  her  famous  sons;  C.  de 
Groux,  Grace  before  meat.  —  Wall  D.  Dansaert^  Diplomats ; 
Gallait,  The  wedding-dress;  Kindermans,  Scene  in  the  Amblcve 
valley;  *N.  de  Keyser,  Battle  of  Worringen  (1288);  Siegfried  of 
Westerburg,  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  standing  before  his  captors 
DukeJohnI.ofBrabantandCountAdolphofBerg(1839);  Bracfcc^eer, 
Spinner;  Gallait,  Gipsy;  T.  Gerard,  Village  festival  in  Swabia. 

Fourth  Section.  Wall  D.  Musin,  Landscape;  A.  Serreche,  Con- 
cert. —  Wall  B.  De  Block,  The  convalescent. 

Third  Section.  Wall  B.  A.  Hennebicq,  Labourers  in  the  Bo- 
man  Campagna;  above,  De  Cocq,  Cattle  in  a  wood;  H.  Boulenger^ 
View  of  Din  ant;  above,  L.  Matthieu,  Entombment  (1848);  F. 
Pauwels,  The  widow  of  Jacques  van  Artevelde  giving  up  her  jewels 
for  the  state ;  H.  Leys,  Restoration  of  the  Roman  Catholic  service 
in  Antwerp  Cathedral  (1845);  H.  Bource,  Bad  news;  Thomas, 
Barabbas  and  tbe  body  of  Christ;  J.  H.  L.  de  Haas,  Cows  at  pas- 
ture; A.  Stevens,  Lady  in  a  light  pink  dress;  F.  Lamoriniere, 
Landscape  near  Edeghem;  V.  Lagye,  The  visit  to  the  sorceress. 

Opposite  AVall  D.  Dubois,  Still-life ;  J.  Portaels,  The  Daughter 
of  Zion,  an  allegorical  representation ;  Asselbergs,  Landscape ;  G.J.  A. 
van  Luppen,  Spring-landscape;  above,  ^.  J.  dePratere,  Cattle-market 
in  Brussels;  E.  Wauters,  The  Prior  of  the  Augustine  monastery  to 
which  Hugo  van  der  Goes  had  retired  tries  to  cure  the  painter's 
madness  by  means  of  music;  Fourmois ,  Landscape;  J.  Portaels, 
Simoom;   Baugniet,  Visiting  the  widow;   above,  L.  Jiobbe,  Cattle. 

Second  Section.  Wall  B.  H.  Leys,  Studio  of  Frans  Floris  ;  P.  J. 
Clays,  Calm  on  the  Scheldc;  V.  Kuyck,  Stable;  A.  Verwee,  Cattle 
by  a  river ;  Gallait,  Autumn ;  J.  B.  Madou,  Festival ;  de  Jonghe,  The 
young  mother;  above,  J.  Czcrmak,  Spoils  of  war  in  the  Herzegovina 
(Christian  girls  captured  for  the  slave-market  by  IJashi-Bazouks). 
—  Wall  D.  C.  de  Groux,  Drunkard  by  the  corpse  of  his  neglected 
wife;  J.  B.  Madcu,  A  question  of  fate;  De  Pratere,  Asses'  heads; 
A.  Robert.  Plundering  of  the  Carmelite  Convent  in  Antwerp  at  the 


Palais  des  Beaux-Arts.      BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.    93 

end  of  the  16th  century  j  C.  E.  G.  Wappers ,  Beginning  of  the  Re- 
volution of  1630  at  the  Hotel  de  Ville  in  Brussels ;  the  people  tearing 
the  proclamation  ('24th  Sept.)  of  Prince  Frederick  of  the  Nether- 
lands ;  H.  de  Braekeleer,  The  geographer ;  A.  Thomas,  Judas  on  the 
night  after  the  condemnation  of  Jesus ;  GaUait,  Count  Barthe'le'my 
lie  Mortier;  Bobbe,  Bull  attacked  by  dogs. 

First  Section.  WallD.  Ch.  Ooms,  Forbidden  fruit ;  H.  Boulenger, 
Landscape;  A.  Stevens,  The  widow  and  her  children;  W.  Roelofs, 
Landscape;  above,  Hubert,  Cuirassiers  at  Waterloo;  J.  Lies, 
Baldwin  III.  of  Flanders  punishing  robber-knights ;  E.  de  Scham- 
pheleer ,  River-scene  near  Gouda;  A.  de  Vriendt,  Excommuni- 
cation of  Bouchard  d'Avesnes  (on  account  of  his  marriage  with  Mar- 
garet of  Flanders) ;  above,  *Ch.  Verlat,  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  at  the 
storming  of  Jerusalem;  F.  Huygens,  Flowers. 

Wall  B.  TScharner,  Landscape  in  winter;  Stevens,  Salome; 
Quinaux,  Landscape ;  Cluysenaar,  The  future  painter ;  C.  van  Camp, 
Death  of  Mary  of  Burgundy  (p.  17);  Rosseels,  Landscape.  Portaels, 
Box  in  the  theatre  at  Pest;  above,  Fh.  van  Brie,  Interior  of  St.  Peter's 
at  Rome  on  Corpus  Christi  Day;  F.  Lamoriniere,  Landscape;  J. 
Willems,  La  Fete  chez  Ics  Grands-Parents;  A.  Verwee,  A  Zealand 
team;  above,  Stallaert,  Death  of  Dido;  (ra//aii,  Johanna  the  Mad 
by  the  corpse  of  her  husband,  Philip  the  Handsome.  —  Wall  A. 
Beernaert,  Woodland  scene;  Hunin,  Alms-giving. 


The  Rub  i>b  laRbgbncb  (PL  E,  D,  4,  5),  which  leads  to  the  S.  W. 
from  the  Place  Royale  (p.  87),  is  now  one  of  the  finest  streets  in 
Brussels.  Immediately  to  the.  left  stands  the  Palais  du  Comte  de 
Flandre  (PL  49 j,  which  contains  a  handsome  staircase  and  is  em- 
bellished with  sculptures  by  Van  der  Stappen  and  pictures  by  E. 
Wauters,  Verlat,  Stallaert,  and  others.     On  the  right  is  the 

Palais  des  Beaux-Arts  (PL  45),  a  building  finished  in  1880, 
in  the  classical  style,  by  Balat,  the  portal  of  which  is  flanked  by 
four  massive  granite  columns  with  bronze  bases  and  capitals.  On 
the  tops  of  the  columns  are  four  colossal  figures,  representing  Music, 
Architecture ,  Sculpture ,  and  Painting ,  executed  by  Degroot, 
Samain,  W.  Geefs,  and  Melot.  Above  are  three  bronze  medallions  : 
Rubens  (in  the  centre;  by  Van  RasbourgK),  Jean  de  Boulogne  (by 
Cuypers),  and  Jan  van  Ruysbroeck  (see  p.  105;  hy  Boure),  and  two 
marble  reliefs,  the  Graphic  Arts  and  Music,  by  Brunin  and  VinQotte. 
In  front  of  each  of  the  wings  stands  an  allegorical  group  in  bronze  ; 
on  the  left.  Instruction  in  Art,  byP,  C.  van  der  Stappen;  on  the  right 
Coronation  of  Art,  by  P.  de  Vigne. 

The  Musee  de  Sculpture  is  arranged  on  the  ground-floor. 

The  Vestibule  contains  bronze  sculptures,  including:  P.Boure, 
Prometheus  bound;  Child  playing  with  balls;  L.  Mignon,  Bull- 
tight;  etc. 

The  Main  Hall,  occupying  the  entire  height  of  the  building, 


94     Route  12. 


BRUSSELS. 


Sculpture  Gallery. 


contains  chiefly  marble  sculptures.  In  the  passage  to  the  left:  P. 
C.  van  der  Stappen,  The  man  with  the  sword;  J.  J.  Ducaju^  Fall 
of  Babylon,  a  group;  B.  Frison^i  Naiad.  Opposite:  J.  Geefs^  Love 
and  Malice;  A.  Sopers,  Young  Neapolitan  playing  oti  the  rauglia; 
E.  Simonis,  Innocence.  To  the  left :  M.  Ryshrack^  Statue  of  John 
Howard,  the  philanthropist.  In  the  centre  of  the  room  :  VV.  Geefs, 
Statue  of  King  Leopold  I. ;  Th.  Vin^otte,  Busts  of  King  Leopold  11. 
and  his  queen;  L.  Delvaux,  The  Cardinal  Virtues,  a  small  group  in 
marble.  —  Farther  on  in  the  left  passage  :  M.  Kessels,  Venus  leaving 
the  bath ;  W.  Geefs,  The  amorous  lion ;  Jos.  Geefs,  Fallen  Angel 
(one  of  his  best-known  works).  —  In  the  passage  to  the  right:  C. 
A.  Fraikin^  Cupid  taken  captive;  G.  Charlier^  Prayer;  J,  J.  Jaquet, 


The  Golden  Age ;  J.  de  Braekeleer^  Expectation ;  M.  Kessels,  Child 
with  a  duck;  A.  Cattier,  Daphne ;  Th.  Ving:otte,  Giotto;  A.  F.  Boure, 
Boy  playing  with  a  lizard;  A.  Fassin,  Neapolitan  water -seller; 
J.  Cuypers,  Ilallali ;  P.  de  Vigne,  Immortality.  —  On  the  walls  are 
bronze  and  marble  busts. 

In  two  rooms  to  the  left  of  the  main-hall  (corresponding  to  RR. 
IV  and  V  on  the  flrst  floor;  comp.  Plan)  are  various  plaster  casts, 
and  some  old  paintings,  chiefly  historical  views  and  portraits  of 
princes  of  the  houses  of  Burgundy,  Orange,  and  Hapsburg.  The 
smaller  room  also  contains  the  sketches  for  the  historical  procession 
of  1880  (jubilee  of  the  Independence  of  Belgium). 

First  Flooii.  *Musee  de  Peinture  (Galerie  Ancienne).  —  The 
Musee  Royal  de  Belgique ,    or   royal   picture-gallery ,    which   was 


Picture  Gallery.  BKUSSELS.  i2.  Route.    95 

purchased  from  the  city  by  the  state  in  1845,  is  growing  in  im- 
portance every  year.  Formerly  inferior  to  the  gallery  at  Antwerp,  it 
must  probably  now  be  considered  as  the  chief  collection  in  Belgium. 
The  Early  Flemish  School  of  the  15th  cent,  is  represented  by  various 
important  pictures,  such  as  Adam  and  Eve  by  Hubert  van  Eyck  (No. 
19),  Madonna  by  Petrus  Cristus  (No.  21 ),  the  Legend  of  the  lying 
empress  and  the  innocent  nobleman  hy  Dierick  Bouts  (Nos.  51,  52), 
and  the  Holy  Family  by  Quinten  Massys  (No.  38).  Flemish  and 
Dutch  art  of  the  17th  cent,  has  also,  through  judicious  purchases, 
gradually  come  to  be  most  favourably  represented.  The  pictures  by 
Rubens  at  Brussels  cannot  indeed  be  compared,  either  in  number  or 
beauty,  with  those  at  Antwerp ;  but  his  Adoration  of  the  Magi 
(No.  410)  ranks  among  the  finest  treatments  of  this  subject,  and 
his  portraits  and  the  Virgin  in  an  arbour  of  roses  (No.  412)  also  de- 
serve attention.  The  full-length  portrait  of  Willem  vaij  Heythuysen 
(No.  283)  and  a  half-length  portrait  (No.  282)  by  Frans  Hals,  the 
portraits  by  Van  der  Heist  (Nos.  291,  2921  and  Dou  (No.2581,  and 
the  large  Village  Feast  by  Teniers  (No.  465)  may  also  be  specified. 
—  The  names  of  the  painters  are  affixed  to  the  frames.  As  the 
collection  is  constantly  being  augmented,  the  pictures  are  often  re- 
arranged, and  some  of  the  more  recent  acquisitions  are  not  yet 
numbered.  The  numbering  of  the  pictures  begins  in  each  room  on 
wall  A  (comp.  the  Plan,  p.  94),  and  is  continued  to  the  left,  on 
Walls  B,  C,  D. 

Rooms  I.  and  III.  are  at  present  empty. 

Room  II.  Italian,  Spanish,  and  French  pictures.  Wall  A.  225, 
227.  Al.  Sanchez  Coeilo,  Portraits  of  Joanna  and  Maria  of  Austria, 
daughters  of  Charles  V. ;  514.  Italian  School,  Madonna  with  the 
Holy  Child  and  St.  John;  above  the  last,  199.  Paolo  Veronese, 
Holy  Family  with  SS.  Theresa  and  Catharine;  171.  Guercino, 
Altarpiece ;  *277.  Claude  Lorrain,  Landscape  with  ^neas  hunt- 
ing with  Dido;  478.  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Jupiter  and  Leda  (describ- 
ed by  Mr.  Crowe  as  an  inferior  school -piece);  402,  401.  Tinto- 
retto, Portraits;  378.  Pannini,  Ruins  of  Rome;  above,  197.  Paul 
Veronese,  Juno  strewing  her  treasures  on  Venice,  ceiling-painting 
from  the  palace  of  the  Doges  at  Venice;  154.  Albani,  Adam  and 
Eve;  above,  404.  F.  de  Rossi  (II  Salviati),  Christ  between  two 
apostles  ;  above,  172.  Barocci,  Calling  of  Peter  and  Andrew  ;  226. 
Coello,  Margaret  of  Parma.  —  Wall  B.  460,  Strozzi  (of  Genoa), 
Portrait;  above,  398.  Guido  Reni,  Flight  into  Egypt.  —  Wall  C. 
521.  Spanish  School,  Franciscan  monk;  477.  Perugino,  Madonna 
and  Child  with  John  the  Baptist,  a  round  picture  framed  in  a  gar- 
land of  fruit  in  terracotta;  above,  198.  Paul  Veronese,  Adoration  of 
the  Shepherds;  above,  Raph.  Menps,  Portrait  of  Michael-Angelo 
Cambiaso.  —  Wall  D.  203.  Ann.Carracci^  Diana  and  Actaeon. 

Room  IV.  Wall  A.  No  number,  J.  D.  de  Heem,  Fruit  and 
flowers  ;  370.  J.  van  Oost  the  Younger,  Portrait ;  *296.  M.  d'Honde- 


96     lioute  12.  BRUSSELS.  Picture  Gallery. 

*oeter,  Cock  crowing.  —  Wall  B.  270.  Gov.  Flinck,  Portrait  (1640); 
c4'25.  Sal.  vanRuysdael,  The  ferry;  311.  Jordaens,  Satyr  and  peasant 
(from  /Esop) ;  466.  Tenters  Vie  Younger,  Picture-gallery  of  Archduke 
Leopold  William ,  with  the  names  of  the  masters  on  the  frames 
(1651);  above,  246.  G.  de  Crayer,  Conversion  of  St.  Julian; 
376.  A.  Faliimedesz,  Chamber-concert,  purchased  for  11,500  fr. ; 
470a.  Terburg,  Portrait;  356.  A.  More,  Portrait  of  Alva; >*258.  G. 
I)ou,  The  painter  drawing  a  Cupid  by  lamplight;  367.  Adr.  van 
Nieulant ,  Carnival  on  the  ice  on  the  town -moat  of  Antwerp; 
above,  269.  B.  Flemalle,  Punishment  of  Heliodorus;  153.  P.  Aerl- 
sen,  The  cook;  316,  317.  Th.  de  Keyser,  Two  sisters;  no  number, 
Rubens^  Four  heads ;  424a.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Landscape;  331c.  *Nic. 
Maes,  Old  woman  fallen  asleep  while  reading;  452.  JanSteen,  The 
'Rederyker'  (i.  e.  rhetoricians,  or  members  of  'Rederykamern' ; 
these  were  literary  clubs  or  debating  societies,  well  known  in  the 
16th  and  17th  centuries,  which  met  on  festive  occasions  to  hold 
recitations  and  debates);  *343.  G.  Metsu,  The  breakfast;  *308. 
Karel  du  Jardin,  Herd  of  cattle;  above,  491.  P.  de  Vos,  Large 
hunting-piece ;  414a,  c,  &  b.  Rubens,  Mercury  and  Argus,  Rape  of 
Hippodamia,  Fall  of  the  Titans,  three  small  sketches;  426.  Sal. 
van  Ruysdael,  Landscape  with  fishermen ;  428.  H.  Saftleven,  Barn ; 
344.  Van  der  Meulen,  Army  of  Louis  XIV.  at  the  siege  of  Tournai  ; 
*409.  Rubens,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin;  374.  Isaac  van  Ostade, 
Woman  winding  thread;  266a.  A.  van  Dyck,  Small  sketch;  David 
Tenters  the  Younger,  463.  The  village-doctor,  462.  The  five  senses ; 
285.  J.  Dav.  de  Heem,  Flowers;  315.  Jordaens,  Eleazar  and  Re- 
becca at  the  well,  in  a  landscape  by  Wildens ;  *417,  *418.  Rubens, 
Portraits  of  Charles  de  Cordes  and  his  wife,  purchased  for  130,000  fr. ; 
*332.  Nic.  Maes,  Old  woman  reading;  500.  Pldl.  Wouverman, 
Hunt;  363.  A.  van  der  Neer,  Landscape  by  night;  *467.  Tenters 
the  Younger,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony;  414.  Rubens,  Martyrdom 
of  St.  Ursula  and  her  companions,  a  small  sketch;  368.  Pourbus, 
Portrait;  361.  P.  Neefs  the  Elder,  Interior  of  Antwerp  Cathedral; 
307.  Karel  du  Jardin,  Outpost;  193.  Adr.Brouwer,  Boors  carousing 
on  the  ramparts  of  Antwerp,  bought  in  1882  for  13,000  fr. ;  284. 
J.D.  de  Heem  and  C.  Lambrechts,  Allegorical  representation  of  fer- 
tility; 292a.  Earth,  van  der  Heist,  Portrait;  187.  /.  and  A.  Both, 
Italian  landscape;  333.  Nic.  Maes,  Portrait;  above,  271.  F.  Floris, 
Last  Judgment;  421.  Rachael  Ruysch ,  Flowers  and  fruit;  262. 
A.  van  Dyck,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Peter;  261.  Dusart,  Village-festival 
(1695);  *282.  Fr.  Hals,  Professor  Hoornebeek  of  Leyden ;  168. 
Corn,  de  Baeilleur,  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  200.  G.  Camphuysen, 
Rustic  interior;  269a.  G.  Flinch.  Goldsmith's  family  taking  stock; 
231.  M.vanCoxte.  Last  Supper;  289.  C.deHeem,  Fruit  and  flowers; 
188a.  Jan  de  Bray,  Portrait;  366.  Isaac  van  Ntckele  (d.  1703), 
Groote  Kerk  at  Haarlem;  347.  A.  Miynon,  Flowers  and  insects.  — 
Wall  D.  247.  (/ .  de  Grayer,  Adoration  of  the  shepherds. 


Picture  Gallery.  BRUSSELS.  72.  Route.     97 

Room  V.  236.  G.  de  Crayer,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Blaise,  painted 
in  1667  when  the  artist  was  86  (duplicate  in  Ghent,  see  p.  01).  — 
155,  156.  D.  ran  Alsloot,  Procession  of  St.  Gudule  in  the  market- 
place of  Brussels;  in  the  centre  of  No.  156  is  the  old  'Halle  an 
Pain',  opposite  the  Hotel  de  Ville. 

Room  YI.  Painters  of  the  18th  and  early  19th  centuries.  — 
Wall  A.  J.  B.  de  Jonghe,  Landscape  near  Tournai ;  P.  J.  Helle- 
mnns.  View  from  the  wood  at  Soignes.  —  Wall  B.  F.  J.  Navez, 
The  young  man  of  great  possessions,  Judgment  of  Solomon  ;  F.  Goya, 
Scenes  from  the  Inquisition  (sketch) ;  J.  L.  David,  Flute-player, 
a  portrait.  —  Wall  C.  A.  Lens,  Samson  and  Delilah  ;  G.  J.  Her- 
reyns.  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  P.  J.  C.  FrariQois^  Marius  on  the 
ruins  of  Carthage;  F.  J.  Navez,  Ilagar  and.  Ishmael,  Athaliah  test- 
ing Joash:  Ingres,  Virgil  reading  the  JEnead  aloud;  U.  van  Assche, 
AVaterfall  at  To.-^a  ;  J.  L.  David,  Portrait  of  a  boy  (study).  —  Wall 
I).  A.  LfTi.s,  Bacchus  comforting  Ariadne,  Offerings  for  Bacchus; 
M.  J.  van  Bree,  Regulus  returning  to  Carthage,  Athenians  casting 
lots  for  the  victims  for  the  Minotaur. 

Room  VIL  J.  B.  de  Champaigne,  221.  Assumption,  210-219. 
Scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Benedict;  445.  Snayers,  Siege  of  Cour- 
trai(1648).    , 

Roo^r  VIII.  Wall  A.  220.  Ph.  de  Champaigne,  Portrait  of  him- 
self (1668);  373.  Is.  van  Ostade,  Travellers  resting;  195.  Velret 
Brueghel,  St.  Norbert  preaching  against  heresy  at  Antwerp;  *183. 
Ferd.  Bol,  Saskia  van  Ulenburgh.  Rembrandt's  wife;  above,  291, 
292.  Barth.  van  der  Heist,  Portraits  of  the  painter  and  his  wife(?). 
—  Wall  C.  360.  P.  Neefs  the  Elder,  Interior  of  Antwerp  Cathedral; 
505.  Wynants,  Landscape  with  accessories  by  A.  van  de  Velde ; 
above,  434.  G-'.  «Sc7iaZcfccn,  Wax-moulding;  354.  A.  More,  Portrait  of 
Hubert  Goltzius  (p.  373j;  333c.  TV.  Maes,  Portrait. —  Wall  D.  392. 
A.Pynacker,  Landscape  with  stag-hunt;  293.  J.  van  Hemessen, 
Prodigal  Son ;  464.  Teniers  the  Younger,  Flemish  landscape  ;  392. 
J.  van  Ravesteyn,  Portrait;  483.  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger,  The 
Zuiderzee;  above,  272.  F.Floris  and  J.  Francken,  Adoration  of  the 
Magi;  422.  Jac.  van  Euysdael.  Landscape,  with  accessories  by  A. 
van  de  Velde;  499.  Phil.  Wouverman,  Starting  for  the  chase;  504, 
503.  Wynants,  Landscapes;  *412.  Rubens,  Virgin  and  Child  in  an 
arbour  of  roses,  the  background  by  J.  Brueghel,  formerly  in  Eng- 
land, bought  in  1882  for  75,000  fr. ;  454.  Jan  Steen,  Twelfth  Night 
('Le  roi  boit') ;  313.  Jordaens,  Allegorical  representation  of  the 
vanity  of  this  world ;  497.  Em.  de  Witte,  Interior  of  the  church  at 
Delft ;  293a.  M.  Hohhema,  Landscape ;  *455.  Jan  Steen,  The  gal- 
lant offer ;  above,  232.  Michiel  van  Coxie,  Death  of  the  Virgin  ;  *397. 
Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  a  man  (1641);  469.  L.  van  I'den,  Landscape, 
with  accessories  by  Teniers  the  Younger;  194.  Adr.  Brouiver,  Brawl 
in  an  ale-house;  364.  Aari  van  c?er  2Vecr,  Pleasures  of  winter;  272a. 
P.  Franchoys,  Drinkers;  414d.Pw6em,  Atalanta  andMeleager;  288. 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  7 


98     Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Picture  Gallery. 

J.  D.  de  Heem,  Still-life;  419.  liubens,  Portrait  (1619J;  *283. 
Frans  Hals,  Portrait  of  Wiliem  van  Heytliuysen,  founder  of  the 
hospital  of  that  name  at  Haarlem;  196.  Jan  Brueghel  ('Velvet 
Brueghel'),  Autumn ;  249a. ^\B,  G.  Cuyp,  Fisherman;  above,  243. 
G.  de  Crayer,  The  Virgin  as  the  patroness  of  the  Archers  of  Grand- 
Serment  at  Brussels;  337.  J.  L.  de  Marne,  Festival  of  a  patron- 
saint;  424.  Jac.  van  Ruysdael,  The  Uaarlemer  Meer;  427.  Dav. 
liyckaert,  Chemist  in  his  lahoratory;  299.  J.  van  Huchtenburgh, 
Battle-piece;  no  number,  P.  Potter,  Swine;  372.  Adr.  van  Ostade, 
Flemish  trio,  purchased  for  19,470  fr.;  17Ga.  G.  and  J.  Berck- 
Heyde,  Church  of  Haarlem;  371.  Adr.  van  Ostade,  Peasants  eating 
herrings;  395.  Jan  van  Ravesteyn,  Portrait;  453.  Jan  Steen,  The 
operation ;  above,  166.  L.  Bakhuyaen,  Storm  off  the  Norwegian  coast; 
397a.  Rembrandt,  Portrait;  *294.  Hobbema,  Wood  at  Haarlem;  181, 
182.  Ferd.  Bol,  Portraits;  278.  J.  van  Goyen,  View  of  Dort,  figures 
by  A.  Cuyp;  J.  Matsys,  342.  (above)  Lot  and  his  daughters,  341. 
The  chaste  Susannah;  496.  J.  Weenix,  Game  and  fruit  (1703); 
375.  A.  Palamedesz,  Portrait  (1650);  249.  Alb.  Cuyp,  Stable;  *465. 
Dav.  Ttniers  the  Younger,  Flemish  village-festival  (1652);  502. 
Wxjnants,  Landscape  ;  438a.  Er.  Quellin  and  Dan.  Seghers,  Flowers, 
with  a  head  of  Christ  in  the  centre  ;  333a,  333b.  N.  Maes,  Portraits; 
*461.  Dav.  Tenters  the  Elder^  View  of  a  village,  purchased  for  10,000  fr. 
KooM  IX.  Wall  A.  365.  Aart  van  der  Neer,  The  Yssel  by  moon- 
light; iQS.  J.  Asselyn,  Crossing  the  ford;  no  number,  Van  Dyck, 
Study  of  a  head;  297.  Hondecoeter,  Dead  cock  hung  on  a  wall;  253. 
Dirk  van  Delen,  Portico  of  a  palace,  with  accessories  by  Palamedesz 
(1642);  442.  P.  Snayers,  Battle  of  the  White  Hill,  near  Prague, 
1620;  184a.  Ferd.  Bol,  Portrait;  501.  P.  Wouvermann,  Riding- 
lesson;  *468.  Dav.  Tenters  the  Younger,  Portrait;  473.  Ttlborgh, 
Parade  of  the  Knights  of  the  Golden  Fleece  before  the  palace  of 
the  Duke  of  Brabant  at  Brussels;  176.  N.  Berchem,  Cattle  at  pasture  ; 
346.  W.  van  Mieris,  Susannah;  121.  Flemish  School,  Portrait 
(1504);  443.  P.  Snayers,  Battle  of  AVimpfen  (1622),  with  Tilly  in 
the  foreground;  476a.  Adr.  van  Utrecht,  Fruit;  271a.  F.  Floris, 
Holy  Family;  254.  J.  W.  Delff,  Portrait;  187a,  187b.  Bout,  Boude- 
wyns.  Landscapes.  —  Wall  B.  314.  Jordaens,  Head  of  an  Apostle, 
a  sketch  in  colours;  257.  J.  van  der  Does,  Herd-boys.  —  Wall  C. 
444.  P.  Snayers,  Battle  of  Hcechst,  1622;  430.  A.  Sallaert,  The 
Infanta  Isabella  witnessing  a  competition  of  the  Grand-Serment 
Archers  at  Brussels  (1615);  252a.  C.  Decker,  The  wooden  bridge; 
498.  E.  de  Witte,  Church-interior;  175.  N.  Berchem,  Landscape  with 
ruins;  295.  M.  d' Hondecoeter,  Entrance  of  a  park;  431.  Sallaert, 
Procession;  321.  Phil,  de  Koninck,  Dunes;  420.  Gericault  (1820), 
St.  Martin  dividing  his  cloak  with  a  beggar,  copy  of  a  work  by 
Rubens  in  Windsor  Castle;  476b.  Adr.  van  Utrecht,  Kitchen-scene, 
with  accessories  by  JorcZaens;  184.  F.  Boi, Philosopher;  507.  Flemish 
School,  Interior  of  a  picture-gallery;  286.  J.  Dav.  de  Heem,  Vauitas; 


Picture  Gallery.  BRUSSELS.  i?.  Route.     99 

427a.  Eyckaert  the  Younger,  Labourers'  repast;  26.  Maerten  van 
Heemskerck  (properly  Van  Veen'),  Entombment,  on  the  wings  portraits 
of  the  donor  and  his  wife  with  their  patron-saints  (1559);  486. 
T.  Veraecht,  Adventure  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  on  the  Martins- 
wand.  —  WallD.  *235.  G.  de  Grayer,  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes, 
one  of  the  painter's  best  works;  382.  iV.  Pimont,  Landscape. 

Room  X.  Wall  A.  259.  F.  Duchatel,  Two  little  girls;  310.  J. 
Jordaens^  Allegorical  representation  of  fertility ;  Ant.  van  Dyck, 
266.  Portrait  of  Delafaille,  burgomaster  of  Antwerp,  265.  St.  Fran- 
cis of  Assisi,  264.  St.  Anthony  of  Padua;  309.  J.  Jordnens,  St.  Mar- 
tin casting  out  a  devil;  387.  Pourbus,  Portrait  (1573);  476.  Ad. 
van  Ostade,  Large  kitchen  interior.  —  Wall  B.  237.  G.  de  Grayer, 
Assumption  of  St.  Catharine  ;  415,  *416.  Rubens,  Portraits,  over  life- 
size,  of  the  Archduke  Albert  and  his  consort,  the  Infanta  Isabella, 
painted,  for  the  triumphal  arch  erected  on  their  entry  into  Antwerp 
(see  p.  xviii);  Rubens,  413.  Venus  in  Vulcan's  forge,  407.  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin,  the  principal  figure  poor,  painted  for  the  church 
of  the  Carmelites  at  Antwerp;  312.  J.  Jordaens,  Triumph  of  Prince 
Frederick  Henry  of  Nassau,  a  sketch  (comp,  p.  276) ;  490.  Gorn.  de 
Voe,  The  painter  and  his  family;  263.  V(tn  Dyck,  Drunken  Silenus; 
408.  Rubens,  Pieta.  —  Wall  C.  178.  Karel  Em.  Biset,  Tell  and  the 
apple,  with  the  members  of  the  St.  Sebastian  Archery  Guild  repre- 
sented as  onlookers ;  300.  G.  Huysmans,  Landscape ;  488,  489. 
Marten  de  Vos,  Portraits;  411.  Rubens,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Livinus, 
whose  tongue  the  executioner  has  torn  out  and  offers  to  a  hungry 
dog,  one  of  the  great  master's  most  repulsive  pictures,  painted  for 
the  Church  of  the  Jesuits  at  Ghent;  276.  J.  Fyt,  Fruit  and  flowers, 
in  a  landscape;  above,  205.  Ph.  de  Ghampaiyne,  Presentation  in 
the  Temple;  339.  Peter  Meert,  The  masters  of  the  Guild  of  Fish- 
mongers in  Brussels.  —  Wall  D.  208.  Ph.  de  Ghampaigne,  St.  Am- 
brose; 301.  J.  B,  Huysmans,  Landscape  with  cattle;  406.  Ru- 
bens, Christ  hurling  thunderbolts  against  the  wicked  world,  while 
the  Virgin  and  St.  Francis  are  interceding,  painted  for  the  Francis- 
cans of  Ghent;  447.  Fr.  Snyder s,  Game  and  fruit;  239.  Gasp,  de 
Grayer,  SS.  Anthony  and.  Paul,  the  hermits;  405.  Rubens,  Way  to 
Golgotha,  painted  in  1637  for  the  Abbey  ofAfflighem;  275.  J.  Fyt, 
Dead  game,  on  a  cart  drawn  by  dogs ;  *410.  Rubens,  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  painted  for  the  Capuchin  friars  of  Tournai;  160.  J.  van 
Arthois,  Sylvan  path ;    209.  Ph.  de  Ghampaigne,  St.  Stephen. 

Room  XL  Wall  A.  3a.  J.  Bosch  (J.  van  Aaken),  Fall  of  the 
rebellious  angels,  a  work  of  extravagant  imagination ;  42.  Bernard 
van  Orley,  The  physician  George  de  Zelle;  3e.  Dierick  Bouts 
(Stuerbout),  Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian;  47.  School  of  B.  van 
Orley,  Madonna  and.  Child;  140.  German  School,  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  saints ;  5,  6.  B.  de  Bruyn,  Portraits ;  47a.  J.  de  Patinir, 
Rest  on  the  Flight  into  Egypt;  40.  B.  van  Orley.  Pieta,  with  por- 
traits of  the  donors  on  the    wings,   painted  before   1522,    under 

7* 


100   Eoute  12.  BRUSSF.LS.  Picture  Gallery. 

Italian  influence;  48.  J.  de  Patinir ,  Mater  Dolorosa;  34.  Mem- 
ling.,  Portrait;  *55.  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Charles  the  l)Ol(l; 
69.  Flemish  School,  Descent  from  the  Cross;  113.  Flemish  School^ 
The  Woman  taken  in  adultery;  4a.  Peter  Brueghel  the  Younger, 
The  children  of  Bethlehem.  —  AY  all  C.  4.  Peter  Brueghel  the 
Elder  ('Peasant  Brueghel'),  Massacre  of  the  Innocents,  naively  re- 
presented as  occurring  in  the  midst  of  a  snow-clad  landscape ;  1. 
Amberger ,  Portrait;  13.  Lucas  Cranach  the  Elder,  Dr.  Johannes 
Scheuring  (1529);  49.  Martin  Schoen.  Mocking  of  Christ;  *32,  *33. 
7l/cmZ<ng',  Portraits  of  the  Burgomaster  W.  Moreel  and  his  wife,  models 
of  plain  burgess  simplicity ;  *31.  Memling,  Crucifixion,  with  the  Virgin 
and  St.  John;  in  the  foreground  kneels  Duke  Francesco  Sforza  of 
Milan  with  his  wife  and  son  ;  on  the  ^v^ngs  Birth  and  Resurrection 
of  Christ  with  Saints ;  on  the  back  SS.  Jerome  and  George,  in  gris- 
aille. —  B.  van  Orley,  43.  Guillaume  do  Norman  (1519).  41.  Trials 
of  Job  ;  8,  9.  Jan  van  Coninxloo,  Birth  and  Death  of  St.  Nicholas; 
27.  Hans  Holbein  the  Younger  (?),  Sir  Thomas  More  (?);  18.  School 
of  Albrecht  THlrer,  Portrait;  50.  School  of  Martin  Schoen,  Christ  at 
the  house  of  Simon  the  Pharisee;  12.  Cornelis  van  Coninxloo, 
Relatives  of  the  Virgin ;  20.  Jan  van  Eyck  (more  probably  by 
Gerard  David,  according  to  Mr.  Crowe),  Adoration  of  the  Magi; 
the  figures  somewhat  stiff  though  not  unnatural,  the  colouring  vigo- 
rous ;  44.  B.  van  Orleyi^i),  Wings  of  an  altar-piece  of  1528,  with 
scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Anne;  Birth  of  the  Virgin  and  Rejection 
of  the  offering  of  Joachim  (on  the  back:  Death  of  St.  Matthew, 
Thomas's  Unbelief,  Marriage  of  St,  Anne,  and  Appearing  of  (!hrist). 
—  3f.  Dierick  Bouts,  Last  Supper. 

Antechambkr,  between  RR.  XI.  and  XII.  Nos.  14,  15.  Lucas 
Cranach  the  Elder,  Adam  and  Eve;  2.  H.  de  Bles,  St.  Anthony. 

Room  XII.  AVall  A.  98.  Flemish  School,  Descent  from  the 
Cross.  —  Wall  B.  28.  J.  Joest,  Holy  Family;  3b.  J.  Bosch  (J.  van 
Adken),  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  in  the  painter's  well-known 
fantastic  manner  (on  the  back:  Martyrdom  of  St.  Anthony,  in 
gxisaille) ;  above,  143.  German  School,  Christ  and  Apostles ;  21. 
School  of  Van  Eyck  (by  Petrus  Cristus,  according  to  Mr.  Weale), 
Madonna  and  Child;  152.  French  School,  Edward  VI.  of  England(?); 
29.  L.  Lombard,  Last  Supper  (1531);  76.  Flemish  School,  Portrait 
of  Willem  van  Croy;  39.  Jan  Mostaert,  Miracles  of  St.  Benedict; 
24.  Jan  Gossaert,  surnamed  Mabuse  or  van  Maubeuge,  Mary  Mag- 
dalene washing  the  feet  of  Christ  in  the  house  of  Simon  the  Phari- 
see, with  the  Raising  of  Lazarus  on  the  left  wing,  and  the  Assump- 
tion of  Mary  Magdalene  on  the  right;  126.  German  School,  Cruci- 
fixion ;  144.  German  School,  Portrait  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  I. — 
WallC.  C.  Crivelli,  16.  Madonna  and  Child,  17.  St.  Francis  of  Assisi. 

**38.  Quinten  Massy s  or  Metsys,  History  of  St.  Anne,  a  large 
winged  picture,  purchased  in  1879  for  200,000  fr.  from  the  church 
of  St.  Peter  at  Louvain,   for  which  it  was  painted  in  1509. 


Picture  Gallery.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.    101 

The  principal  picture  repreaents  the  family  of  St.  Anne,  including 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  to  the  latter  of  whom  St.  Anne  holds  out  a  grape; 
in  front,  to  the  right,  is  Salome  with  her  two  sons,  James  the  Elder  and 
John  •,  to  the  left.  Mary  Cleophas,  with  her  sons,  James  the  Younger, 
Simon  Thaddseus,  and  Joseph  the  Just;  behind  the  balustrade,  in  the 
archway,  through  which  a  rich  landscape  is  visible,  are  Joachim,  Joseph, 
Zebedee,  and  Alphtcus,  the  husbands  of  the  four  women.  'The  heads  are 
full  of  life,  the  garments  are  richly-coloured  and  disposed  in  large  masses, 
and  the  whole  scene  is  illuminated  with  a  light  like  that  of  a  bright  day 
in  spring'.  —  On  the  inside  of  the  left  wing  is  an  Angel  announcing  to 
Joachim  the  birth  of  the  Virgin  ,  on  the  outside,  Oflerings  of  Joachim 
and  Anne  on  their  marriage  (with  the  signature  'Quinte  Metsys  1509'); 
on  the  right  wing  are  the  Death  of  St.  Anne,  and  the  Expulsion  of 
Joachim  from  the  Temple  on  account  of  his  lack  of  children. 

Wall  D.  145,  146.  German  School,  Portraits  of  Maximilian  II. 
and  Anne  of  Austria,  as  children;  56.  Roger  van  der  W£yd€n(^'>'), 
Head  of  a  weeping  woman  (faded). 

*3d,  *3c.  iJierick  Bouts,  Justice  of  Otho  III. 

The  subject  is  the  medieeval  tradition  that  the  Emp.  Otho  beheaded 
a  nobleman  who  had  been  unjustly  accused  by  the  Empress,  but  his  inno- 
cence having  been  proved  by  his  widow  submitting  to  the  ordeal  of  fire, 
Otho  punished  the  empress  with  death.  This  picture  was  originally  hung 
up  in  the  judgment-hall  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  at  Louvain,  according 
to  an  ancient  custom  of  exhibiting  such  scenes  as  a  warning  to  evil-doers. 

57-64.  School  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  History  of  Christ,  of 
little  value. 

*19.  Hubert  van  Eyck,  Adam  and  Eve,  two  of  the  wings  of 
the  celebrated  Adoration  of  the  Lamb  in  the  church  of  St.  Bavon 
at  Ghent  (see  p.  39) ,  ceded  by  the  authorities  to  government,  as 
being  unsuitable  for  a  church,  in  return  for  copies  of  the  six  wings 
at  Berlin. 

'It  would  be  too  much  to  say  that  Hubert  rises  to  the  conception  of 
an  ideal  of  beauty.  The  head  (of  Eve)  is  over  large,  the  body  protrudes, 
and  the  legs  are  spare,  but  the  mechanism  of  the  limbs  and  the  shape 
of  the  extremities  are  rendered  with  truth  and  delicacy,  and  there  is 
much  power  in  the  colouring  of  the  flesh.  Counterpart  to  Eve,  and  once 
on  the  left  side  of  the  picture,  Adam  is  equally  remarkable  for  correctness 
of  proportion  and  natural  realism.  Here  again  the  master's  science  in 
optical  perspective  is  conspicuous,  and  the  height  of  the  picture  above 
the  eye  is  fitly  considered'.  —  Crowe  and  Cavalcaselle,  Early  Flemish 
Paintevs,  1872.  —  (Comp.  p.  xxxix.) 

At  the  back  are  figures  of  the  Erythraean  Sibyl,  with  a  view  of 
Ghent,  and  the  Cumsean  Sibyl,  with  an  interior,  by  the  Van  Eycks. 

Beyond  the  Palais  des  Beaux-Arts  is  the  Petit  Sablon,  or  Kleine 
Zaavelplaats  (Pl.  D,  5).    To  the  right  rises  the  church  of  — 

Notre  Dame  des  Victoires  (PI.  24;  D,  5),  also  called  Notre 
Dame  du  Sablon,  founded  in  1304  by  the  guild  of  Cross-bowmen, 
but  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries.  It  has 
lately  been  purged  of  disfigurements. 

The  Inteeioe,  which  has  been  recently  restored,  measures  71  yds.  in 
length  by  28  yds.  in  breadth  (61  yds.  across  the  transepts)  and  is  decorated 
with  stained  glass.  A  tablet  of  black  marble  in  the  S.  transept  re- 
cords that  the  remains  of  the  author  Jean-BapHsie  Rousseau,  who  died  in 
exile  at  Brussels  in  1741,  were  transferred  hither  in  1642  from  the  Church 
des  Petits-Carmes  (see  p.  103).  —  The  adjacent  1st  Chapel  in  the  S.  Aisle 
contains  the  monument  of  Count  Flaminio  Gamier,  secretary  of  the  Duke 


]  02   Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Pal.  Arenberg. 

of  Parma,  consisting  of  six  reliefs  in  alabaster  from  the  life  of  the 
Virgin  (about  1570 ;  restored).  At  the  W.  end  of  this  aisle  is  a  monument 
erected  in  1856  to  Aug.  dal  Pozzo,  Marquis  de  Voghera  (d.  1781),  com- 
mander of  the  Austrian  forces  in  the  Netherlands.  —  The  burial-chapel 
(I7th  cent.)  of  the  Princes  of  Thurn  and  Taxis,  in  the  N.  Transept,  sump- 
tuously adorned  with  black  and  white  marble,  contains  sculptures  of  no 
artistic  merit;  a  St.  Ursula  over  the  altar,  by  Hen.  Duquesnoy^  merits  at- 
tention-, on  the  right  is  an  angel  holding  a  torch,  by  Grupello;  in  the 
dome  are  numerous  family  armorial  bearings.  —  The  Cuoik  contains 
mural  paintings  of  saints,  being  an  exact  reproduction  of  the  originals  of 
the  15th  cent,  discovered  here  in  i860  in  a  state  beyond  restoration;  also 
some  stained  glass  of  the  15th  century.  —  The  pulpit,  carved  in  wood,  is 
borne  by  the  symbols  of  the  four  Evangelists. 

At  the  upper  end  of  tlie  Petit  Sablon,  a  small  square  surrounded 
by  a  handsome  railing,  rises  the  Monument  of  Counts  Egmont  and 
Hoorn  (PI.  39),  by  Fraikin,  which  formerly  stood  in  front  of  the 
Maison  du  Roi  (p.  106).  The  lower  part  is  a  fountain,  above  which 
rises  a  square  pedestal  in  the  later  Gothic  style.  The  two  small 
bronze  figures  on  the  right  and  left  are  soldiers  of  the  corps  com- 
manded by  the  two  counts.  The  colossal  figures  in  bronze  above 
represent  Egmont  and  Hoorn  on  their  way  to  execution.  Ten 
Marble  Statues  of  celebrated  contemporaries  of  the  counts  were 
erected  in  1890  in  a  half-circle  round  the  monument.  These  re- 
present (from  left  to  right):  Marnix  of  Ste.  Aldegonde  (p.  245)  by 
P.  Devigne^  Abr.  Ortelius  by  J.  Lambeaux,  Bern,  van  Orley  by 
Dillens,  J.  de  Locquenghien  by  G.  van  den  Kerckhove,  Ger.  Mer- 
cator  by  L.  P.  van  Biesbroeck,  Dodonaeus  (p.  132)  by  A.  de  Tom- 
bay,  Corn.  Floris  de  Yriendt  by  J.  Pecker,  H.  van  Brederode  by 
J.  A.  van  Rasbourgh,  L.  van  Bodeghem  by  J.  Cuypers,  and  William 
of  Orange  by  C.  van  der  Stappen.  The  48  small  bronze  figures  on 
the  pillars  of  the  artistic  railing  represent  the  Artistic  and  Indust- 
rial Guilds  of  the  16th  century;  they  were  cast  in  1882-83  by  the 
Compagnie  des  Bronzes  at  Brussels  from  designs  by  A'.  Mellery  and 
models  by  J.  Cuypers,  P.  Comein,  J.  Courroit,  A.  Desenfans,  A., 
J.,  F.,  and  G.  van  den  Kerckhove^  Ch.  Geefs,  J.  A.  Hambresin, 
J.  Laumans,  B.  Martens,  E.  Lefever,  A.  J.  van  Rasbourgh,  J. 
Lambeaux,  and  others.  —  Behind  the  monument  is  the  — 

Palace  of  the  Due  d'Arenberg  (PI.  44;  D,  5),  once  the  re- 
sidence of  Count  Egmont,  erected  in  1548,  restored  in  1753,  with 
a  modern  right  wing.  It  contains  a  small  but  choice  picture-gallery 
(admission,  see  p.  77). 

The  Pictures  are  all  in  excellent  preservation,  and  furnished  with 
the  names  of  the  artists.  —  Long  Room,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance:  Rem- 
brandt, or  more  probably  Sal.  Koninck,  Tobias  restoring  his  father's  sight ; 
Van  Dyck.,  Portrait  of  a  Spanish  countess;  Graesbeeck,  His  own  studio;  A. 
van  Ostade,  A.  Bromcer,  Tavern-scenes ;  Jac.  van  Ruysdael,  Waterfall; 
Hobbema,  Landscape;  P.  Potter,  Resting  in  a  barn;  Rubens,  Two  portraits 
and  three  sketches  of  angels'  heads  ;  Berck-Heyde,  Canal ;  JP.  de  Hooch.,  In- 
terior; O.  Dou,  The  painter's  parents;  O.  Metsu,  The  billet-doux;  Jan 
van  der  Meer  van  Delft,,  Girl;  Jan  Steen,  Wedding  atCana;  Rubens,  Small 
portrait;  A.  van  der  Neer,  Moonlight  on  the  sea  (1644);  O.  Dou,  Old 
woman  counting  money;  O.  Terburg,  Musical  entertainment;  JordaenSy 
'Zoo   de  ouden  zongen,  zoo  piepen  de  jongen'  (when  the  old  quarrel,   the 


Palais  de  Justice.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.    103 

young  squeak);  Tenters,  Playing  at  bowls;  O.  Dou.  Hermit;  N.  Maes, 
The  scholar;  G.  Miens,  Fishwoman.  —  Above  the  door:  Bei'ck-Heyde, 
Inner  court  of  the  Amsterdam  Exchange.  —  To  the  right  of  the  door: 
/.  Ruysdael ,  Landscapes;  A.  Cuyp ,  Horses;  D.  Tenters,  Farmyard,  Pea- 
sant smoking;  Van  der  Heist,  Dutch  wedded  couple,  Portrait  of  a  man; 
A.  van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  Due  d'Arenberg;  Tenters.,  Man  selling  shells; 
Fr.  ffah.The  drinker;  Everdingen,  Waterfall;  Terburg,  Portrait;  Fr.  Hals, 
Two  boys  singing;  Rubens,  Two  portraits  and  a  sketch.  —  On  the  window- 
wall:  Portrait  of  Marie  Antoinette,  painted  in  the  Temple  by  Koharsky, 
shortly  before  the  unfortunate  queen  was  removed  to  the  Conciergerie. 

The  Library  contains  antique  vases,  statuettes,  and  busts  in  marble. 
—  The  well-kept  Gardens  deserve  a  visit  (fee  1  fr.). 

A  few  houses  above  the  palace,  to  the  left,  is  the  prison  of  Les 
Petits  Cannes  (PI.  D,  E,  5),  the  front  of  which  (set  apart  for 
female  convicts)  was  built  in  1847  by  Dumont  in  the  English  Gothic 
style.  A  Carmelite  monastery  formerly  occupied  this  site. 

Somewhat  higher  up  stood  the  house  of  Count  Kuylenburg,  memo- 
rable under  Philip  II.  as  the  place  of  assembly  of  the  Netherlands  nobles 
who  began  the  struggle  against  the  supremacy  of  Spain.  Here,  on  6th 
April,  1566,  they  signed  a  petition  C" Request')  to  the  vice-regent  Margaret 
of  Parma  (natural  daughter  of  Charles  V,  and  sister  of  Philip  II.),  pray- 
ing for  the  abolition  of  the  inquisitorial  courts,  after  which  between  three 
and  four  Uundred  of  the  confederates  proceeded  on  horseback  to  the  palace 
of  the  Duchess,  in  the  Place  Eoyale.  At  the  moment  when  the  petition  was 
presented.  Count  Barlaimont.  one  of  the  courtiers,  whispered  to  the  princess, 
whose  apprehensions  had  been  awakened  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  the 
corte'ge,  '■Madame,  ce  n'est  quune  troupe  de  gueux"  (i.e.,  beggars),  in  allusion 
to  their  supposed  want  of  money.  The  epithet  was  overheard,  and  ra- 
pidly communicated  to  the  whole  party,  who  afterwards  chose  it  for  the 
name  of  their  faction.  On  the  same  evening  several  of  their  number, 
among  whom  was  Count  Brederode,  disguised  as  a  beggar  with  a  wooden 
goblet  (jatte)  in  his  hand,  appeared  on  the  balcony  of  the  residence  of 
Count  Kuylenburg  and  drank  siiccess  to  the  'Gueux';  while  each  of  the 
other  confederates,  in  token  of  his  approval,  struck  a  nail  into  the  goblet. 
The  spark  thus  kindled  soon  burst  into  a  flame,  and  a  few  years  later 
caused  the  N.  provinces  of  the  Netherlands  to  be  severed  from  the  do- 
minions of  Spain.  When  the  Duke  of  Alva  entered  Brussels  in  1567,  he 
fixed  his  residence  in  Count  Kuylenburg's  house  and  here  caused  the 
arrest  of  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoom.  Afterwards  he  ordered  it  to  be 
razed  to  the  ground. 

Farther  on ,  to  the  left ,  stands  the  Conservatoire  de  Mu- 
sique  (PI.  11 ;  D,  5),  built  in  1876  by  Cluysenaar.  The  Conservatoire 
possesses  an  interesting  collection  of  old  musical  instruments  from 
the  16th  cent,  onwards  ,  which  was  augmented  in  1879  by  the 
acquisition  of  the  Tolbecque  collection  from  Paris,  and  is  now  ex- 
hibited at  No.  11  Rue  aux  Laines,  at  the  back  of  the  building  (adm. 
on  Thurs.,  2-4).  —  On  the  same  side  rises  the  Synagogue 
(PI.  63),  a  building  in  a  simple  and  severe  style  by  De  Keyset. 

The  new  *  Palais  de  Justice  (PI.  C,  D,  5),  which  terminates 
the  Rue  de  la  Regence  on  the  S.,  an  edifice  designed  on  a  most  am- 
bitious scale  by  Poelaert,  and  begun  in  1866  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  Wellens,  was  formally  inaugurated  in  1883,  at  the  jubilee 
of  Belgium's  existence  as  a  separate  kingdom.  The  cost  of  the 
building  amounted  to  50  million  francs  (2,000, OOOZ.).  It  is  the 
largest  architectural  work  of  the  present  century,  and  is  certainly 
one  of  the  most  remarkable,    if  not  one  of  the   most  beautiful 


104    Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Palais  de  Justice. 

of  modern  buildings.  The  inequalities  of  the  site  added 
greatly  to  the  magnitude  of  the  task.  The  area  of  the  building  is 
270,000  sq.  ft,,  considerably  exceeding  that  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome 
(see  p.  142).  The  huge  and  massive  pile  stands  upon  an  almost 
square  basis,  590  ft.  long  by  560  ft.  wide,  and  forcibly  sug- 
gests the  mighty  structures  of  ancient  Egypt  or  Assyria.  Indeed 
the  architect  avowed  that  his  guiding  principle  was  an  adaptation 
of  Assyrian  forms  to  suit  the  requirements  of  the  present  day.  The 
general  architectural  scheme  may  be  described  as  pyramidal,  each 
successive  section  diminishing  in  bulk.  Above  the  main  body  of 
the  building  rises  another  rectangular  structure  surrounded  with 
columns;  this  supports  a  drum  or  rotunda,  also  encircled  with  col- 
umns, while  the  crown  of  the  whole  is  formed  by  a  comparatively 
small  dome,  the  gilded  cross  on  the  top  of  which  is  400  ft.  above 
the  pavement.  The  rotunda  is  embellished  with  colossal  figures 
of  Justice,  Law,  Strength ,  and  Clemency.  The  principal  fac^ade, 
with  projecting  wings  and  a  large  portal ,  is  turned  towards  the 
Rue  de  la  Re'gence.  In  details  the  Gra;co-Roman  style  has  been 
for  the  most  part  adhered  to,  with  an  admixture  of  rococo  treatment, 
and  curved  lines  have  been  generally  avoided ;  an  example  of  this  is 
the  rectilineal  termination  of  the  porch,  which  is  enclosed  by  huge 
pilasters.  The  flights  of  steps  ascending  to  the  vestibule  are  adorn- 
ed with  colossal  statues  of  Demosthenes  and  Lycurgus  by  A.  Cattier 
(1882;  to  the  right)  and  of  Cicero  and  Domitius  Ulpian  by  A.  F. 
Boure  (1883;  to  the  left).  The  interior  includes  27  large  court- 
rooms, 245  other  apartments,  and  8  open  courts.  The  large  Salle 
des  Pas  Perdus^  or  waiting-room,  with  its  galleries  and  flights  of 
steps,  is  situated  in  the  centre,  under  the  dome,  which  has  an 
interior  height  of  320  ft.  Guides  in  uniform  are  in  waiting  to  con- 
duct visitors  through  the  interior  (daily,  except  Sun.,  9-4.30). 

A  little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Petit  Sablon  (p.  101)  is  the  Place 
i)U  Grand  Sablon  {Groote  Zaavelplaats;  PI.  D,  4),  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  an  insignificant  fountain-monument  erected  by  the 
Marquis  of  Aylesbury  in  1751 ,  in  recognition  of  the  hospitality 
accorded  to  him  at  Brussels. 

The  old  Palais  de  Justice  (PI.  46),  formerly  a  Jesuit  monastery, 
stands  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Grand  Sablon.  The  wing  facing  the 
Rue  de  la  Paille  contains  the  Archives  of  the  kingdom.  The  princi- 
pal front,  on  the  N.W. ,  faces  a  small  Piace,  with  the  marble  sta- 
tue of  Alex.  Gendehien  (d.  1869),  a  member  of  the  provisional 
government  of  1830,  by  Ch.  Van  der  Stappen,  erected  in  1874. 

In  the  Rue  Haute,  or  Hoogstraat,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  is 
situated  the  Gothic  Notre  Dame  de  la  Chapelle  (PI.  23 ;  C ,  4), 
begun  in  1216  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  chapel;  the  choir  and  transept 
date  from  the  middle  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  the  nave  and  W.  towers 
were  completed  in  1483. 


Hotel  deViUe.  BRUSSELS.  1 '2.  Route.    105 

The  Iktkriok  (concierge,  Rue  des  Ursulines  24)  is  worthy  of  a  visit 
on  account  of  the  numerous  frescoes  (Chapelle  de  la  Sainte  Croix,  to  the 
right  of  the  choir)  and  oil-paintings  (14  -Stations  of  the  Cross)  by  Van 
Eycken  (d.  1853).  The  first  three  pillars  of  the  chapels  in  the  S.'  Aisle 
bear  the  remains  of  frescoes  of  the  15th  cent,  (saints).  —  The  stained- 
glass  in  the  1st  and  2nd  chapels,  with  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin, 
is  by  /.  ran  der  Poorfen  (1S67).  The  3rd  chapel  contains  the  tomb  of  the 
painter  Jan  Brueghel  ("Velvet  Bruegher),  with  a  picture  by  him  (Christ 
giving  the  keys  to  Peter).  In  the  4th  Chapel,  De  Crayer,  Christ  appearing 
to  Mary  Magdalene.  —  In  the  N.  chapel  of  the  choir:  Landscapes  by  J. 
iVAHhois  (d.  1605)  a,ni  Achtschelling  (d.  1731).  Near  the  altar:  De  Cvaye)\ 
S.  Carlo  Borromeo  administering  the  Holy  Communion  to  the  plague- 
stricken;  Van  Thitlden,  Intercession  for  souls  in  Purgatory.  Jlonument  of 
the  Spinola  family  by  Plumiers  (d.  1721).  On  a  pillar  a  monument,  with 
bust,  to  Duke  Ch.  Alex,  de  Cvoy  (d.  1624).  A  tablet  of  black  marble  at  the 
back  of  the  pillar,  put  up  by  Counts  Merode  and  Beaufort  in  1834,  bears 
a  long  Latin  inscription  to  the  memory  of  Frans  Anneessens^  a  citizen 
of  Brussels,  and  a  magistrate  of  the  Quarter  of  St.  ^Nicholas,  who  was 
executed  in  the  Grand  3Iarche  in  1719  for  presuming  to  defend  the  pri- 
vileges of  the  city  and  guilds  against  the  encroachments  of  the  Austrian 
governor  (the  Marquis  de  Pric).  —  The  CnoiK  has  recently  been  decorated 
with  fine  polychrome  paintings  by  C  ha  vie- Albert.  The  somewhat  incon- 
gruous high-altar  was  executed  from  designs  by  Rubens.  —  The  carving 
on  the  pulpit,  by  Plumiers,  represents  Elijah  in  the  wilderness,  and  is 
simpler  and  in  better  taste  than  that  of  the  pulpit  in  the  cathedral. 

The  Rue  Haute  ends  at  the  Porte  de  Hal  (p.  113). 


In  the  centre  of  the  lower  part  of  the  town  lies  the  **Grande 
Place,  or  market-place  (PI.  D,3},  120yds.  long  and  74yds.  wide, 
in  which  rise  the  Hotel  de  Ville  and  several  old  guild -houses. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  mediaeval  squares  in  existence,  presenting 
a  marked  contrast  to  the  otherwise  modern  character  of  the  city, 
and  occupies  an  important  place  in  the  annals  of  Belgium.  In 
the  spring  of  1568  twenty-five  nobles  of  the  Netherlands  were  be- 
headed here  by  order  of  the  Duke  of  Alva  ,  the  most  distinguished 
victims  being  Lamoral,  Count  Egmont,  and  Philip  de  Montmorency, 
Count  Hoorn  (p.  102). 

The  *H6tel  de  ViUe  (PI.  D,  3)  is  by  far  the  most  interesting 
edifice  in  Brussels,  and  one  of  the  noblest  and  most  beautiful  build- 
ings of  the  kind  in  Belgium.  It  is  of  irregular  quadrangular  form, 
66  yds.  in  length  and  55  yds.  in  depth,  and  encloses  a  court.  The 
principal  facade  towards  the  market-place  is  in  the  Gothic  style, 
the  E.  half  having  been  begun  in  1402,  the  W.  in  1443.  The 
graceful  tower,  370  ft.  in  height,  which,  however,  for  some  unex- 
plained reason  does  not  rise  from  the  centre  of  the  building,  was 
completed  in  1454.  The  first  architect  is  said  to  have  been  Jacob 
van  Thienen  (1405),  and  the  next  Jan  van  Ruysbroeck  (jiA4S'),  a 
statue  of  whom  adorns  the  first  niche  in  the  tower.  The  fagade  has 
lately  been  restored.  It  is  doubtful  whether  the  niches  on  the  facade 
were  all  intended  to  receive  statuettes,  or  were  in  some  cases  meant 
to  be  purely  decorative;  at  all  events  the  central  story  of  the  S. 
wing  and  the  tower  now  seem  overladen  by  the  multitude  of  mod- 
ern statues  of  Dukes  of  Brabant  with  which  they  have  been  adorn- 


106    Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Halle  au  Pain. 

ed.  The  open  spire,  which  was  damaged  by  lightning  in  1863,  ter- 
minates in  a  gilded  metal  figure  of  the  Archangel  Michael ,  which 
serves  as  a  vane,  16  ft.  in  height,  but  apparently  of  much  smaller 
dimensions  when  seen  from  below.  It  was  executed  by  Martin  van 
Rode  in  1454.  The  back  of  the  Hotel  de  Yille  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  18th  century.  In  the  court  are  two  fountains  of  the  18th 
cent. ,  each  adorned  with  a  river-god,  that  on  the  right  by  Plumiers. 

The  concierge  (fee  1/2  fr.),  who  lives  in  the  passage  at  the  back,  shows 
the  Intekiok  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (see  p.  76).  The  rooms  and  corridors 
contain  several  pictures  (Stallaert,  Death  of  Eberhard  T'serclaes,  1388, 
a  magistrate  of  Brussels  ;  Coomans,  Defeat  of  the  Huns  at  Chalons,  451), 
and  portraits  of  former  sovereigns,  among  whom  are  Maria  Theresa, 
Francis  II.,  Joseph  II.,  Charles  VI.,  Charles  II.  of  Spain,  etc.;  in  the 
following  passage,  the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  Philip  III.  of  Spain,  Philip  IV., 
Archduke  Albert  and  his  consort  Isabella,  Charles  II.  of  Spain,  and  Phi- 
lip II.  in  the  robe  of  the  Golden  Fleece.  In  the  spacious  Salle  du  Cotf- 
SEiL  CoMMDNAL,  On  the  first  floor,  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorn  were  con- 
demned to  death  in  1568.  The  present  decoration  of  the  hall,  with  its 
rich  gilding,  recalling  the  palace  of  the  Doges  at  Venice,  dates  from  the 
end  of  the  17th  century.  The  ceiling-painting,  representing  the  gods  in 
Olympus,  is  by  Victor  Janssens.  The  same  artist  designed  the  tapestry  on 
the  walls,  of  which  the  subjects  are  the  Abdication  of  Charles  V.,  the  Coro- 
nation of  Emp.  Charles  VI.  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  and  the  'joyeuse  entre'e"' 
of  Philippe  le  Bon  of  Burgundy,  t.c,  the  conclusion  of  tlie  contract  of 
government  between  the  sovereign,  the  clergy,  the  nobility,  and  the 
people.  On  an  adjacent  table,  in  a  chased  and  gilded  copper  salver,  are 
the  keys  of  the  city,  which  were  presented  to  the  regent  on  that  oc- 
casion. —  The  adjoining  rooms  are  hung  with  tapestry  from  designs  by 
Lebrun  and  Van  der  Borght,  representing  the  history  of  Clevis  and  Clo- 
tilde.  —  The  large  Banquet  Hall,  65  yds.  long  and  27  yds.  wide,  re- 
cently decorated  with  beautiful  Gothic  carved  oak,  from  designs  by  Ja- 
maer,  also  deserves  notice.  The  tapestry,  representing  the  guilds  in  char- 
acteristic figures,  was  executed  at  Blalines  from  designs  by  W.  Geets.  — 
The  Salle  d'Attente  contains  views  of  old  Brussels,  before  the  con- 
struction of  the  present  new  and  spacious  streets  (pp.  109,  111),  by  J.  B. 
van  Afoer,  1873.  —  The  Salle  des  Maeiages  is  lined  with  oaken  panelling 
and  adorned  with  allegorical  frescoes.  —  The  Staircase  is  adorned  with 
two  pictures  by  ^m.TTaJA^ers;  John  III.,  Duke  of  Brabant,  resigning  to  the 
guilds  of  Brussels  the  right  of  electing  the  burgomaster  (1421),  and  Mary 
of  Burgundy  swearing  to  respect  the  privileges  of  the  city  of  Brussels  (1477). 

The  Tower  (key  kept  by  the  concierge;  1  fr.  for  1  pers.,  60  c.  each 
for  a  party)  commands  an  admirable  survey  of  the  city  and  environs. 
To  the  S.  the  Lion  Monument  on  the  Field  of  Waterloo  is  distinctly  visible 
in  clear  weather.     The  best  hour  for  the  ascent  is  about  4  p.m. 

Opposite  the  Hotel  de  Yille  is  the  *Halle  au  Pain  (PI.  35  ;  D,  3), 
better  known  as  the  Maison  du  Roi,  formerly  the  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment authorities.  The  building  was  erected  in  1514-25,  in  the 
transition  style  from  the  Gotbic  to  the  Renaissance,  restored  about 
1767  in  egregiously  bad  taste,  and  rebuilt  in  1877-84  according  to 
the  original  plan.  It  is  now  fitted  up  for  the  municipal  authorities, 
and  joined  with  tbe  Hotel  de  Ville  by  a  subterranean  passage. 
Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorn  passed  the  night  previous  to  their  exe- 
cution here,  and  are  said  to  have  been  conveyed  directly  from  the 
balcony  to  the  fatal  block  by  means  of  a  scaffolding,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  possibility  of  a  rescue  by  the  populace. 

The  *MusEE  Communal  (Gemeentelyk  Muzeum),  established  in 


Guild  Houses.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.    107 

1887  on  the  second  floor  of  the  Halle  an  Pain  (adm.  daily,  10-4), 
contains  models  of  ancient  and  modern  buildings  of  Brussels,  sculp- 
tures, banners,  Brussels  china  and  faience,  artistic  objects  in  metal, 
a  few  rare  prints,  plans  of  buildings,  water-colour  views  of  Brussels, 
coins  and  medals,  and  some  paintings  of  the  Flemish,  German,  and 
Italian  schools,  including  examples  of  Mierevelt,  Snyders,  A.  More., 
Holbein.,  Cuyck,  Goltzius,  Bol^  and  Marco  d'Oggionno. 

The  *Guild  Houses  in  the  Grande  Place  are  well  worthy  of 
notice.  They  were  re-erected  at  the  beginning  of  last  century, 
after  having  been  seriously  damaged  during  the  bombardment  by 
Louis  XIV.  in  1695.  The  old  hall  of  the  Guild  of  Butchers  on  the 
S.  side  is  indicated  by  a  swan.  The  Hotel  des  Brasseurs,  recently 
restored  with  considerable  taste,  bears  on  its  gable  an  equestrian 
statue  of  Duke  Charles  of  Lorraine  (p.  78),  designed  in  1854  by 
Jaquet.  On  the  "W.  side  is  the  Maison  de  la  Louve,  or  Hall  of 
the  Archers,  which  derives  its  name  from  a  group  representing 
Romulus  and  Remus  with  the  she-wolf.  To  the  left  of  the  Louve 
is  the  Hall  of  the  Skippers,  the  gable  of  which  resembles  the  stern 
of  a  large  vessel,  with  four  protruding  cannon;  to  the  right  of  the 
Louve,  the  Hall  of  the  Carpenters  (1697),  richly  adorned  with  gild- 
ing. On  the  N.  side,  to  the  right  of  the  Halle  au  Pain ,  is  the 
Taupe,  or  Hall  of  the  Tailors,  built  in  1697  and  lately  restored.  — 
The  extensive  building  occupying  almost  the  entire  S.E.  side  of  the 
square  was  formerly  the  public  Weighing  House. 

At  the  back  of  the  Hotel  de  Yille,  about  200  yds.  to  the  S.W.,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Rue  du  Chene  and  the  Rue  de  TEtuve,  stands  a  diminutive 
figure,  one  of  the  curiosities  of  Brussels,  known  as  the  Mannikin  Fountain 
(PI.  36;  C,  4),  cast  in  bronze  after  Duquesnoy's  model  in  1619.  He  is  a 
great  favourite  with  the  lower  classes,  and  is  invariably  attired  in  gala- 
costume  on  all  great  occasions.  When  Louis  XV.  took  the  city  in  1747, 
the  mannikin  wore  the  white  cockade,  in  1789  he  was  decked  in  the  colours 
of  the  Brabant  Revolution ,  under  the  French  regime  he  adopted  the  tri- 
colour, next  the  Orange  colours,  and  in  1830  the  blouse  of  the  Revolu- 
tionists. Louis  XV.,  indeed,  invested  him  with  the  cross  of  St.  Louis. 
The  figure  is  not  without  considerable  artistic  excellence. 

In  the  Rue  du  Marche  aux  Herbes.  near  the  N.E.  corner  of  the 
Grande  Place,  is  the  entrance  to  the  Galerie  St.  Hubert,  or  Passage 
(PI.  D,  3),  constructed  from  a  plan  by  Cluysenaar  in  1847,  a 
spacious  and  attractive  arcade  with  tempting  shops  (234  yds.  in 
length,  26  yds.  in  width,  and  59  ft.  in  height).  It  connects  the 
Marche -aux -Herbes  with  the  Rue  des  Bouchers  (Galerie  de  la 
Reine),  and  farther  on  with  the  Rue  de  I'Ecuyer  (Galerie  du  Roi, 
with  the  Galerie  des  Princes  diverging  on  one  side).  The  sculp- 
tural decorations  are  by  Jaquet.  The  arcade  is  crowded  at  all  hours 
of  the  day.     (Cafes,  shops,  and  theatre,  pp.  73,  74.) 

About  150  yds.  higher,  in  the  Rue  de  la  Madeleine,  and  also  in 
the  Rue  Duquesnoy  and  Rue  St.  Jean,  are  entrances  to  the  Marche 
Convert  (PL  D,  4),  or  Marche  de  la  Madeleine,  an  extensive  mar- 
ket-place for  fruit,  vegetables,  and  poultry,  erected  by  Cluysenaar 
in  1848.    Owing  to  the  different  levels  of  the  above-named  streets 


108    Route  ll>.  BRUSSELS.  University. 

the  market  lias  t\so  stories.  Like  tlie  Halles  Centrales  (p.  110),  it 
is  well  worth  visiting  in  the  early  part  of  the  morning. 

The  Rub  db  la  Madeleine  (PI.  D,  4)  contains  numerous  houses 
with  facades  of  the  17th  cent,  in  the  Renaissance  style.  It  is  contin- 
ued by  the  busy  Moxtagnb  db  la  Cour,  which  leads  to  the  Place 
Royale  (p.  87).  —  A  side-street  between  the  Rue  de  la  Made- 
leine and  the  Montague  de  la  Cour  leads  to  the  left  to  the  TJni- 
«rersity  (PL  74;  J),  4),  an  'universite  libre',  established  in  the  old 
palace  of  Cardinal  Granvella,  Rue  de  I'lmpe'ratrice,  near  the  Palais 
de  rindustrie.  It  was  founded  by  the  liberal  party  in  1834,  as  a 
rival  of  the  Roman  Catholic  University  of  Louvain  (p.  200),  and 
comprises  the  faculties  of  philosophy,  the  exact  sciences,  juris- 
prudence, and  medicine,  along  with  a  separate  pharmaceutical  in- 
stitution. The  Ecole  Polytechnique,  founded  in  1873,  embraces  six 
departments :  mining,  metallurgy,  practical  chemistry,  civil  and 
mechanical  engineering,  and  architecture.  The  number  of  students 
is  upwards  of  1000.  The  court  is  adorned  with  a  Statue  of  Verhae- 
gen  (d.  1862),  one  of  the  founders,  who,  as  the  inscription  records, 
presented  a  donation  of  100,000  fr.  to  the  funds,  by  Geefs. 

A  few  paces  from  the  University,  in  the  Rue  des  Sols,  is  the  so- 
called  Chapelle  Salazar,  or  de  VExpiation  (PL  9 ;  D,  4),  erected  in 
1436  as  an  'expiation'  for  a  theft  of  the  host  from  Ste,  Gudule  in  1370 
(see  p.  86),  and  occupying  the  site  of  the  synagogue  where  the  sa- 
cred wafers  were  profaned.  It  has  recently  been  restored;  the  in- 
terior is  gaudily  decorated  (scenes  from  the  Passion  by  G.  Payen). 
In  the  adjoining  Rue  Terarken  (PL  D,  E,  4),  to  the  S.E.,  the  Gothic 
Ravestein  Mansion  should  be  noticed  as  one  of  the  few  remaining 
antique  private  buildings  in  Brussels  (p.  79).  It  possesses  an 
interesting  staircase,  pediment,  and  projecting  window. 

The  busy  streets  to  the  N.  of  the  market  and  the  Passage  St. 
Hubert  lead  to  the  Place  db  la  Monnaib  (PL  D,  3),  in  which 
rises  the  royal  TheS-tre  de  la  Monuaie,  with  a  colonnade  of 
eight  Ionic  columns,  erected  by  the  Parisian  architect  Damesne  in 
1817.  The  bas-relief  in  the  tympanum,  executed  by  Simonis  in 
1854,  represents  tlie  Harmony  of  Human  Passions  (in  the  centre. 
Harmony,  surrounded  by  allegorical  figures  of  heroic,  idyllic,  lyric, 
and  satiric  poetry ;  on  the  left  Love,  Discord,  Repentance,  and 
Murder ;  on  the  right  Lust,  Covetousness,  Falsehood,  Hope,  Grief, 
and  Consolation).  The  interior,  which  was  remodelled  after  a  fire 
in  1855 ,  is  decorated  in  the  Louis  XIV.  style  and  can  contain 
2000  spectators.  —  Opposite  the  theatre  the  new  General  Post  Office 
is  now  in  course  of  erection;  its  frontage  will  extend  from  the  Rue 
du  Fosse-aux-Loups  to  the  Rue  de  I'Eveque.  —  Cafes,  see  p.  73. 

From  the  Place  de  la  Monnaie  the  handsome  and  busy  Rue 
Neuvk  (PL  D,  2),  one  of  the  chief  business-streets  of  Brussels, 
leads  towards  the  N.  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  Station  du  Nord. 
In  this  street,    to   the   right,    is   the   new  Galerie  du  Commerce 


New  Exchange.  BRUSSELS.  72.  Roitte.    109 

(PI.  D,  2^,  a  glass  arcade,  similar  to  the Galerie St.  Hubert  (p.  107), 
but  smaller.  To  the  left  is  the  Galerie  du  Nord^  leading  to  the 
Boul.  du  Nord  (see  below)  and  containing  the  Musee  du  Nord,  a 
hall  for  concerts  and  dramatic  representations. 

Turning  to  the  left  at  the  end  of  the  Galerie  du  Commerce ,  or 
following  the  next  side-street  to  the  right  in  the  Rue  Neuve,  we  reach 
the  Place  des  Martyrs,  built  by  Maria  Theresa,  in  the  centre  of 
which  rises  the  Martyrs'  Monument  (PI.  38  ;  D,  2),  erected  in. 1838 
to  the  memory  of  the  Belgians  who  fell  in  Sept.,  1830,  while  fighting 
agaiyst  the  Dutch  (see  p.  80).  It  represents  liberated  Belgium  engrav- 
ing on  a  tablet  the  eventful  days  of  September  ('23rd  to  26th) ;  at  her 
feet  a  recumbent  lion,  and  broken  chains  and  fetters.  At  the  sides 
are  four  reliefs  in  marble :  in  front  the  grateful  nation  ;  on  the  right 
the  oath  taken  in  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Yille  at  the  beginning  of  the 
contest;  on  the  left  the  conflict  in  the  Park  (p.  80);  at  the  back  the 
consecration  of  the  tombs  of  the  fallen.  The  monument  was  de- 
signed and  executed  by  W.  Geefs.  The  marble  slabs  immured  in  the 
sunken  gallery  record  the  names  of  the  'martyrs',  445  in  number. 


An  entirely  modern  feature  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city  is 
formed  by  the  *Inner  Boulevards  ( PI.  B,  C,  D,  2-5 ;  tramways,  see 
p.  75),  which  lie  to  the  W.  of  the  Rue  Neuve  and  the  Place  de  la 
Monnaie  ,  and  extend  from  the  Boulevard  duMidi  (near  the  Station 
du  Midi)  to  the  Boulevard  d'Anvers  (near  the  Station  du  Nord), 
partly  built  over  the  Senne,  and  intersecting  the  whole  town.  Th& 
constniction  of  the  street,  and  the  covering  in  of  the  bed  of  the 
Senne  for  a  distance  of  I1/3  M.,  were  carried  out  by  an  English 
company  in  1867-71.  The  names  of  the  boulevards  are  Boulevard 
du  Nord,  Boulevard  de  la  Senne,  Boulevard  Anspach  (the  most  im- 
portant; named  after  the  burgomaster  Anspach,  d.  1879),  and 
Boulevard  du  Hainaut.  The  pleasing  variety  of  the  handsome  build- 
ings with  which  they  are  flanked  is  in  great  measure  owing  to  an 
offer  by  the  municipal  authorities  of  premiums,  from  20,000  fr. 
downwards,  for  the  twenty  finest  facades. 

The  Boulevard  du  Nord  (PI.  D,  2)  and  the  Boulevard  de  la 
Senne  (PL  D,  2)  meet  at  the  beginning  of  the  Boulevard  Anspach, 
by  the  Church  of  the  Augustines,  erected  in  the  17th  cent.,  and 
now  used  temporarily  as  the  Bureau  Central  des  Pastes.  —  The  tall 
and  narrow  house,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  church,  No.  1,  Boulevard  du 
Nord ,  built  by  Beyaert  in  1874,  received  the  first  prize  in  the 
above-named  competition. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city ,  between  the  Boulkvakd  Anspach 
(PL  C,  3)  and  the  Rue  des  Fripiers,  rises  the  *New  Exchange 
(Bourse  de  Commerce),  an  imposing  edifice  in  the  Louis  XIV. 
style,  designed  by  Suys.  Its  vast  proportions  and  almost  excessive 
richness  of  ornamentation  combine  to  make  the  building  worthy 
of  being  the  commercial  centre  of  an  important  metropolis ;  but  it 


wo   Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Halles  Centrales. 

has  been  sadly  disligured  by  the  application  of  a  coat  of  paint, 
necessitated  by  the  friable  nature  of  the  stone.  The  principal  facade 
is  embellished  with  a  Corinthian  colonnade,  to  which  a  flight 
of  twenty  steps  ascends.  On  each  side  is  an  allegorical  group  by 
J.  Jaquet.  The  reliefs  in  the  tympanum,  also  by  Jaquet,  represent 
Belgium  with  Commerce  and  Industry.  The  two  stories  of  the 
building  are  connected  by  means  of  Corinthian  pilasters  and  col- 
umns. Around  the  building,  above  the  cornice,  runs  an  attic 
story ,  embellished  with  dwarfed  Ionic  columns ,  and  forming  a 
curve  on  each  side  between  two  pairs  of  clustered  columns.  Jhe 
eff"ect  is  materially  enhanced  by  means  of  numerous   sculptures. 

The  principal  hall,  unlike  that  of  most  buildings  of  the  kind,  is 
cruciform  (47  yds.  by  40  yds.),  and  covered  with  a  low  dome  (about  150  ft. 
high)  in  the  centre,  borne  by  twenty-eight  columns.  At  the  four  corners 
of  the  building  are  four  smaller  saloons.  Two  marble  staircases  ascend 
to  the  gallery,  which  affords  a  survey  of  the  principal  hall,  and  to  the 
other  apartments  on  the  upper  floor.  The  cost  of  the  whole  structure 
amounted  to  4  million  francs. 

In  the  Boul.  Anspach,  nearly  opposite  the  Exchange,  is  the 
Hotel  des  Ventes,  built  in  1881.  —  A  little  to  the  W.,  in  the  Place 
St.  Ge'ry  (PI.  C,  3),  is  a  Market,  in  the  Flemish  style,  opened 
in  1882. 

In  the  BouLBVARD  du  Hainaut,  to  the  left,  is  a  Panorama. 
To  the  right,  in  the  Place  Anneessens  (PI.  C,  4)  is  the  monument 
of  the  civic  hero  Frans  Anneessens  (p.  105),  by  Vin^otte,  erected 
in  1889.  Behind  is  a  School  in  the  Flemish  style,  by  Janlet.  A 
little  farther  along  the  boulevard,  on  the  left,  rise  the  Ecole  Modele 
(No.  80),  by  Hendricks,  and  the  large  Palais  du  Midi  (PI.  B,  C,  4, 
5),  the  S.  part  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  Ecole  Industrielle,  and 
the  N.  part  by  a  market-hall. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Boulevard  Anspach  are  the  Halles  Cen- 
trales (PI.  C,  3),  a  covered  provision-market  resembling  its  name- 
sake at  Paris ,  but  on  a  much  smaller  scale.  A  morning  walk 
here  will  be  found  interesting.  In  approaching  from  the  Boulevard 
Anspach  through  the  Rue  Gre'try,  we  have  the  meat,  poultry,  and 
vegetable  market  on  the  left,  and  the  fish- market  on  the  right. 
At  the  end  of  the  latter  the  baskets  of  fish  arriving  fresh  from  the 
sea  are  sold  by  auction  to  retail-dealers  (comp.  p.  6).  The  auction- 
eer uses  a  curious  mixture  of  French  and  Flemish,  the  tens  being 
named  in  French  and  all  intermediate  numbers  in  Flemish.  French 
alone  is  used  at  the  auctions  in  the  poultry  and  vegetable  market. 
—  In  the  new  Grain-Market  (PI.  C,  2)  is  a  marble  statue  of  the 
naturalist  J.  B.  van  Helmont  (1577-1644),  by  G.  van  der  Linden. 

Beyond  the  Halles  rises  the  Church  of  St.  Catharine  (PI.  15; 
C,  2),  on  the  site  of  the  old  Bassin  de  Ste.  Catherine,  designed  by 
Poelaert  (p.  103),  in  the  French  transition  style  from  Gothic  to  Re- 
naissance. It  contains  paintings  by  Pe  Crayer  and  Vaenius,  an 
Assumption  ascribed  to  Rubens,  and  other  works  from  the  old 
church  that  stood  on  the  same  spot. 


Botanic  Garden.  BRUSSELS.  19.  Route.    Ill 

The  Eglise  du  Beguinage  (PI.  13;  C,  2),  in  the  vicinity,  con- 
tains a  colossal  statue  of  John  the  Baptist  by  Puyenhroek,  an  En- 
tombment by  Otho  Taenius,  and  paintings  by  Yan  Loon. 

The  MusEB  Commercial,  Rue  des  Augustins  17  (PI.  D,  2), 
instituted  in  ISSO  for  the  encouragement  of  Belgian  commerce,  con- 
tains collections  of  foreign  manufactures. 


The  old  *Boulevards,  or  ramparts,  were  levelled  about  the 
beginning  of  the  century  and  converted  into  pleasant  avenues, 
which  have  a  total  length  of  41/2  miles.  The  boulevards  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  town  [to  the  N.  and  E.),  together  with  the  Avenue 
Louise  connecting  them  with  the  Bois  de  la  Cambre  (p.  115),  are 
thronged  with  carriages,  riders,  and  walkers  on  fine  summer-even- 
ings, and  present  a  very  gay  and  animated  scene.  The  por- 
tion between  the  Place  Quetelet  (PI.  F,  2)  and  the  Place  du 
Trone  (PL  E,  5),  adjoining  the  palace-garden,  is  also  much  fre- 
quented from  2.30  to  4  p.m.  (chairs  10  c).  The  traveller  who  has 
a  few  hours  at  command  is  recommended  to  walk  round  the  inner 
town  by  these  Boulevards,  a  pleasant  circuit  occupying  iy2-2  hrs., 
which,  however,  he  may  shorten  by  availing  himself  of  the  tram- 
way on  the  S.  and  W.  sides. 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  Station  du  Nord  (built  by  Coppens), 
on  the  right,  rises  the  Hospital  of  St.  John  {Hopital  St.  Jean; 
PL  E,  2),  an  imposing  structure  erected  by  Partoes  in  1838-43  and 
admirably  fitted  up  (admission  9-5  o'clock,  Ifr.;  attendant  1/2"!  f^.; 
entrance,  Rue  Pache'co). 

On  the  opposite  slopes  are  the  grounds  of  the  Botanic  Garden 
(PL  E,  2;  adm.,  see  p.  76),  with  hot-houses  erected  in  1826.  It  is 
entered  from  the  Rub  Royalb  (p.  80),  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  point 
where  that  street  intersects  the  Boulevard  du  Jardin  Botanique. 
From  this  part  of  the  Rue  Royale,  which  is  borne  by  arches,  we  ob- 
tain a  fine  view  of  the  N.  boulevards  ,  extending  to  the  hills  which 
enclose  the  valley  of  the  Senne.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  Botanic  Gar- 
den is  the  new  Jesuit  Church  (PL  18;  F,  2),  built  by  Parot  in  the 
early-Gothic  style. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  Rue  Royale  rises  the  church  of  Ste.  Makib 
DB  Schabrbbbk  (PL  20 ;  F,  1),  an  octagonal  edifice  in  the  Byzan- 
tine style,  built  by  Hansotte  from  plans  by  Van  Overstraeten.  In 
the  Place  Colignon,  to  the  N.,  is  the  new  Maison  Communale  of 
Schaerbeek. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  Boulevard,  farther  on,  lies  the  cir- 
cular Place  des  Barricades  (PL  F,  2),  until  1830  called  the 
Place  d' Orange,  adorned  with  a  statue  of  the  anatomist  Vesalius,  by 
Ed.  Geefs. 

Vesalius,  the  court-physician  of  Charles  V.  and  the  founder  of  modern 
anatomy,  was  born  at  Brussels  in  1514.  His  parents  were  natives  of 
Wesel,  of  which  the  name  Vesalius  is  a  Latinised  form.  He  was  con- 
demned to   the   stake   as    a   sorcerer  by   the  Inquisition,  but  this  penalty 


^]2    Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Musee  Wiertz. 

was  commuted  into  a  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem,  On  bis  way  back  be  was 
wrecked  on  tbe  coast  of  Zante,  wbere  be  died  in  1564. 

The  streets  to  the  S.W.  of  this  point,  extending  to  the  Palais 
de  la  Nation  and  the  ministerial  offices  (p.  81),  were  almost  entirely 
constructed  within  the  last  few  years. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Boulevards  lies  the  modern  and  handsome,  but 
somewhat  monotonous  Quartier  Leopold,  in  the  centre  of  which 
rises  the  church  of  St.  Joseph  (PL  19  ;  F,  4),  a  Renaissance  building 
of  18-49,  by  the  elder  Suys.  The  facade  and  towers  are  constructed 
of  blue  limestone.  The  altarpiecc  is  a  Flight  into  Egypt  by  Wlertz. 
On  the  E.  side  of  the  Qiiartier  Leopold  lies  the  Pare  Leopold  (PI.  G, 
f)),  formerly  laid  out  as  a  zoological  garden.  On  the  W.  side  (Rue 
AViertz)  is  the  large  EtahUssement  d' Horticulture  Internationale 
(Director,  M.  Linden),  opened  in  1889.  On  the  S.  side,  between 
the  park  and  the  Rue  Vautier,  rises  the  new  Musee  d'Histoire 
Naturelle,  opened  in  1891. 

On  tbe  Grockd-Floor  (entr.  Euc  Vautier)  is  tbe  collection  of  ifam- 
tnalia  and  Birds.,  containing  stuiTed  specimens  and  skeletons.  Here  for 
tbe  present  are  also  skeletons,  25  ft.  bigb,  of  tbe  '■  Jgtianodon  (I.  Semis- 
sarlensis  and  /.  Ji/antelli),  tbe  largest  representative  of  tbe  Saurian  family 
of  reptiles.  Tbese  were  found,  along  witb  eigbtcen  similar  skeletons,  in 
tbe  coal-measures  of  Bernissart  (p.  68)  in  Ilainault,  and  are  tbe  first  perfect 
skeletons  discovered  of  tbis  giH;antic  lizard.  In  tbe  'Salle  des  Cavernes', 
also  on  tbe  ground-floor,  are  tbe  ricb  collections  of  bone-relics  and  objects 
of  tbe  stone  age  discovered  in  tbe  caves  on  tbe  Lesse  (p.  192). 

On  tbe  First  Floor  are  tbe  collections  of  Fishes  and  Reptiles  and  of 
Fossil  Vertehrata  (cbalk-formation,  tertiary  and  quaternary  epocbs).  Tbe 
latter,  wbicb  is  especially  ricb  and  of  great  scientific  importance,  includes 
(besides  tbe  Iguanodon,  see  above)  toler.ably  perfect  skeletons  of  tbe  Wo- 
sasaurus,  Ilainosaurus,  Pbospborosatiriis,  Proynatbodon,  Plioplatecarpus, 
Orthomerus,  various  fossil  crocodiles,'^tortoises,  and  fisbes,  primajval  ele- 
pbant  (Elepbaa  antiquus),  JIammotb  (found  in  lb'60  at  Lierre),  Irisb  elk, 
Rbinoceros  Ticborbinus,  Musk-ox,  etc.  —  On  tbe  Second  Floor  are  tbe 
collections  of  Articulata,  Mollusca,  and  Radiata,  Fossil  Flants,  and  Minerals. 

In  the  vicinity  rises  the  *Musee  Wiertz  (PL  G,  5 ;  entrance  by 
an  iron  gate  at  the  N.pj.  corner  of  the  garden  in  the  Rue  Vautier), 
formerly  the  country-residence  and  studio  of  the  painter  of  that 
name  (1806-65),  after  whose  death  it  was  purchased  by  government 
(admission,  see  p.  77).  It  contains  almost  all  the  productions  of 
this  highly-gifted  but  eccentric  master,  who  could  not  be  induced 
to  dispose  of  his  works.  Interesting  catalogue,  containing  also  a 
sketch  of  the  artist's  life,  1/2  fr.  A  monument  to  Wiertz  has  been 
erected  in  the  Place  de  la  Couronne  in  the  suburb  of  Ixelles 
(p.  115),  with  a  medallion  and  a  group  in  bronze  by  Jaquet. 

We  first  enter  two  rooms  containing  designs  and  sketcbes  in  colours; 
in  one  of  tbera  a  mask  of  tbe  painter's  face  taken  after  deatb.  To  tbe 
rigbt  is  tbe  principal  saloon,  wbicb  contains  seven  large  pictures  :  L  Contest 
for  tbe  body  of  Patroclus,  1845^  to  tbe  rigbt,  3.  Homeric  battle;  4.  One 
of  tbe  great  of  tbe  eartb  (Polypbemus  devouring  tbe  companions  of  Ulysses), 
painted  in  1860:  14.  Tbe  beacon  of  Oolgotba;  16.  Tbe  triumpb  of  Cbrist, 
1848;  8.  Contest  of  good  witb  evil,  1842;  52.  Tbe  last  cannon,  1855.  Tbe 
following  are  smaller  works:  23.  Vision  of  a  bebeaded  man;  over  tbe 
door,  25.  Lion  of  Waterloo;  36.  Tbe  young  witcb;  24.  Orpbans,  witb  tbe 
inscription  'Appel  a  la  bienfaisance' ;  5.  Forge  of  Vulcan  (1855?);  in  tbe 
corners   of  tbe  left  end-wall,   28.    Napoleon   in   tbe   infernal    regions;   21. 


Porte  de  Hal.  BRUSSELS.  1^.  Route.    113 

Hunger,  Madness,  and  Crime;  opposite,  26.  Courage  of  a  Belgian  lady; 
opposite,  on  the  right  end-wall,  15.  Entombment,  with  the  Angel  of  Evil 
and  the  Fall  on  the  wings;  22.  The  suicide:  95.  Concierge;  37.  The  rose- 
hud ;  T6.  Portrait  of  the  painter;  73.  ^Portrait  of  his  mother;  11.  Education 
of  the  Virgin.  In  the  corners  of  the  room  are  wooden  screens,  through 
peep-holes  in  which  paintings  hung  behind  them  are  seen.  The  effect  is 
curiously  realistic.  The  three  marble  groups  in  the  middle  of  the  room, 
representing  the  development  of  the  human  race,  are  also  by  Wiertz.  Some  of 
the  pictures  are  painted  in  a  kind  of  distemper  invented  by  Wiertz  himself. 

In  the  open  space  in  front  of  the  Station  du  Quartier  Leopold(^l. 
F,  51,  a  Statue  of  John  Cockerill  (d.  1840 ;  PL  391,  the  founder  of  the 
iron-works  of  Seraing  (p.  2131,  by  A.  Cattier,  was  erected  in  1872. 
The  lofty  limestone  pedestal  is  surrounded  by  figures  of  four  miners. 
The  inscription  is  :  'travail,  intelligence'. 

In  the  Boulevards,  farther  to  the  S.,  is  the  monumental  Fon- 
taine De  Brouckere  (PL  E,  51,  with  a  bust  of  M.De  Brouckere,  an  able 
burgomaster  of  Brussels  (d.  1866),  by  Fiers,  and  a  group  of  children 
by  D' Union,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  former  Porte  de  Namur.  — 
In  the  Boulevard  de  Waterloo,  to  the  left,  rises  the  Eglise  des 
Cannes  (PL  D,  6;  interior  adorned  with  painting),  beyond  which 
the  Avenue  du  Bois  de  la  Cambre  (p.  115)  diverges  to  the  left. 

Then,  to  the  right,  is  the  Hospice  Pacheco  (PL  D,  6),  founded  in 
1713  by  Isabella  Desmares,  widow  of  Don  Aug.  Pache'co,  for  neces- 
sitous widows  and  spinsters  above  50  years  old.  The  present  building 
dates  from  1835.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  boulevard  is  the  Ave- 
nue d'Uccle  (PI.  C,  6),  which  leads  to  the  new  Mint,  completed  in 
1879  (to  the  right,  beyond  the  Rue  de  la  Victoire). 

The  Porte  de  Hal  (PL  C,  6),  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the 
inner  town,  is  the  sole  remnant  of  the  old  fortifications.  It  was 
erected  in  1381 ,  and  two  centuries  later  became  the  Bastille  of 
Alva  during  the  Belgian  'reign  of  terror'.  It  is  a  huge  square 
structure  with  three  vaulted  chambers ,  one  above  the  other ,  and  a 
projecting  tower.  The  interior,  skilfully  adapted  for  this  purpose 
by  Beyaert,  contains  a  rich  Museum  of  WBAroNS.  Admission,  sec 
p.  76.  The  collection  of  antiquities,  which  was  also  formerly  here, 
has  been  removed  to  the  Palais  du  Cinquantenaire  (p.  82). 

The  section  of  the  boulevards  skirting  the  W.  side  of  the  old 
town  of  Brussels  is  generally  known  as  the  'Lower  Boulevards'.    Of 
these  we  first  reach  the  Boulevard  du  Midi  (PL  B,  6,  5,  4).     On 
the  right  stands  the  Blind  Asylum  of  the  Philanthropic  Society  of 
Brussels  (PL  34 ;  C,  6),  a  Gothic  brick  building  with  a  clock-tower, 
designed  by   Cluysenaar  (1858).    Onlthe  left  is  the  Cite  Fontainas 
(PL  B,  6),   an  asylum  for  unemployed  teachers  and  governesses.  — 
Farther  on  is  the  Station  du  Midi  (PL  A,  5,  6),  built  by  Payen. 
Opposite  diverge  the  hxoa-i  Avenue  du  Midi,  the  continuation   of 
which  is  the  Rue  du  Midi,  ending  behind  the  Bourse  fp.  106),  and 
the  Boulevard  du  Hainaut  (p.  110).  [At  the  N.  end  of  the  Avenue 
du  Midi  is  the  Place  Rouppe  (PL  C,  4),  with  a  fountain-monument 
to  N.  J.  Rouppe,  burgomaster  of  Brussels  in  1830-38 ,  by  Fraikin.'] 
Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  8 


114     Route  12.  BRUSSELS.  Laeken, 

In  the  Lower  Boulevards,  farther  to  the  N.,  stands  the  EcoleVet- 
erinaire  (PI.  12 ;  B,  5),  and  beyond  it  arc  the  extensive  Abattoirs 
(slaughter-houses;  PI.  1;  B,  3).  Near  the  latter  begins  the  Canal, 
45  M.  long,  which  connects  Brussels  with  the  Sambre  near  Charleroi. 
Finally, the  tasteful  Caserne  du  Petit-Chateau  and  the  Entrepot  Royal 
(PI.  25 ;  C,  1),  or  custom-house,  with  its  spacious  warehouses. 


At  the  W.  end  of  the  Boulevard  d'Auvcrs  (PI.  0,  D,  1"),  and 
immediately  adjoining  the  custom-house,  begins  the  AlleeVkrtk,  a 
double  avenue  of  limes  extending  along  the  bank  of  the  Willebroeck 
Canal,  which  connects  Brussels  with  Malines  and  Antwerp.  The 
trees  were  planted  in  1707,  and  were  considerately  spared  by  Mar- 
shal Saxe  in  1746  during  the  siege  of  Brussels  in  the  War  of  the 
Austrian  Succession.  This  avenue  was  formerly  the  most  fashion- 
able promenade  at  Brussels,  but  is  now  completely  deserted. 

At  the  end  of  the  Allee  Verte  a  bridge  crosses  the  canal,  the 
road  beyond  which  leads  in  a  straight  direction  to  Laeken  (Restau- 
rants: Pavilion  de  la  Reine ,  near  the  canal-bridge,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  town;  Grande  Grille,  to  the  right,  near  the  cluirch,  'platdu 
jour'  75  c. ;  several  other  cafes  with  gardens),  a  suburb  of  Brussels 
with  22,1300  inhab.,  and  the  summer-residence  of  the  king  of  Bel- 
gium. It  is  connected  with  Brussels  by  two  tramway-lines  (cars  every 
lOmin.),  one  running  via  the  Rue  de  Progres  (PI.  E,  1)  and  the 
other  via  the  Chauss^e  d'Anvers  (PI.  D,  1).  The  two  tramway-lines 
unite  farther  out,  on  the  Laeken  road,  which  leads  to  the  new 
Church  of  St.  Mary  ,  designed  by  Poelaert.  The  exterior  is  still 
unfinished,  especially  as  regards  its  destined  Gothic  ornamentation, 
but  the  interior  is  finely  proportioned.  The  place  of  the  choir  is 
occupied  by  an  octagon,  forming  the  royal  burial-vault,  and  contain- 
ing the  remains  of  Leopold  L  (d.  1865)  and  Queen  Louise  (d.  1850). 

The  Cemetery  of  Laeken  has  sometimes  been  styled  the  Pere- 
Lachaise  of  Brussels,  but  can  of  course  bear  no  comparison  with  the 
great  burial-ground  of  Paris,  either  in  extent  or  in  the  interest  of 
the  monuments,  A  small  chapel  here  contains  the  tomb  of  the 
singer  Malibran  (d.  1836),  adorned  with  a  statue  in  marble  by  Geefs. 
The  curious  Galeries  Funeraires  in  the  S.  part  of  the  cemetery, 
resembling  catacombs,  were  constructed  a  few  years  ago. 

The  new  street  passing  the  E.  side  of  the  church  and  skirting 
the  royal  garden  and  park  (generally  closed ;  celebrated  hot-houses) 
ascends  to  the  (20  min.)  Montagne  du  Tonnerre  (197  ft.),  an  emi- 
nence crowned  with  the  Monument  of  Leopold  I.,  erected  in  1880. 
The  statue  of  the  king,  by  W.  Geefs,  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  Gothic 
canopy  resting  on  massive  round  pillars,  somewhat  in  the  style  of 
the  Albert  Memorial  in  London.  A  winding  stair  ascends  to  tliebase 
of  the  spire,  whence  a  fine  view  (evening-light  best)  is  obtained  of 
Laeken  and  of  Brussels ,  with  the  conspicuous  dome  of  the  new 
Palais  de  Justice.  —  The  monument  is  surrounded  with  pleasure- 
grounds  ;  to  the  W.  lies  the  Ferme  Royale. 


Ecliellc  1:51200 


Bois  de  la  Cambre.  BRUSSELS.  12.  Route.    115 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  monument,  on  the  right  of  and  visible  from 
the  road  to  it,  rises  the  Royal  Chateau,  erected  by  the  Archduke 
Albert  of  Saxe-Teschen  Avhen  Austrian  stadtholder  of  the  Nether- 
lands in  1782-84.  In  1802-14  it  was  in  the  possession  of  Napoleon  I., 
who  daled  here  his  declaration  of  war  against  Russia  in  1812.  In 
1815  the  chateau  became  the  property  of  the  Crown.  Leopold  I. 
died  here  on  16th  Dec,  1865.  On  New  Year's  Day  1890  a  great 
part  of  the  chateau  was  destroyed  by  fire  and  among  the  many  objects 
of  art  which  perished  in  the  flames  were  Napoleon^s  library,  valuable 
tapestries ,  and  paintings  by  Van  Dyck.  The  chateau  has  been 
rebuilt  in  its  previous  form. 

A  steam-tramway  runs  from  Laeken  to  (8V2  M.)  Ifumbeek. 

About  31/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Laeken ,  and  V*  M.  from  the  village  of 
Mei/sse,  is  the  beautiful  chateau  of  Boucfiout,  fitted  up  in  1S79  as  a  resi- 
dence for  the  unfortunate  Princess  Charlotte,  widow  of  the  Emp.  Jlaximi- 
lian  of  Mexico,  who  was  shot  in  1867. 

In  the  Central  Cemetery  at  Evere,  which  is  reached  by  the  steam- 
tramway  (PI.  G,  2,  3)  mentioned  at  p.  75,  a  tasteful  monument  has  been 
erected  to  the  German  soldiers  who  died  in  Belgium  during  the  Franco- 
German  war. 

The  pleasantest  promenade  in  the  environs  of  Brussels  is  the 
*Bois  de  la  Cambre,  on  the  S.E.  side,  being  a  part  of  the  Foret  de 
Soigues,  converted  into  a  beautiful  park  resembling  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne  of  Paris ,  under  the  auspices  of  M.  Keilig,  a  landscape 
gardener.  It  covers  an  area  of  450  acres,  and  is  reached  from  the 
Boulevards  by  the  broad  and  handsome  Avenue  Louise  (F\.  D,  E,  6), 
or  Avenue  du  Bois  de  la  Cambre^  IY2  M.  in  length,  which  is 
flanked  by  a  number  of  handsome  new  houses.  Before  the  Bois  is 
reached ,  on  the  left ,  are  the  church  of  Ste.  Croix  and  the  two 
ponds  of  the  suburb  of  Ixelles;  farther  on,  on  the  same  side,  is  the 
old  Abbaye  de  la  Cambre  de  Notre  Dame,  below  the  road,  now  a 
military  school.  In  the  gardens  adjoining  the  Avenue  Louise,  near 
the  Bois  de  la  Cambre,  is  a  bronze  group  by  Vin(;otte,  represent- 
ing a  Horse-tamer.  A  tramway-line  (No.  1,  p.  75)  runs  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  park,  where  there  are  several  cafes  and  restaurants. 
In  the  park  itself  is  the  'Laiterie'  (*Restaurant,  expensive),  and 
farther  on,  on  an  island  in  the  small  lake,  the  'Chalet  Robinson' 
restaurant.  Beyond  the  Bois  de  la  Cambre  is  the  Hippodrome,  used 
for  horse-races,  and  reached  by  steam-tramway  from  the  Porte  do 
Namur. 

13.    From  Brussels  to  Charleroi  via  Luttre. 
Battle  Field  of  Waterloo. 

35  31.  Railway  in  I1/4-2  hrs.  (fares  4  fr.  25,  3  fr.  20,  2  fr.  15  c.).—  This 
line,  which  was  opened  a  few  years  ago,  affords  a  convenient  route  to  the 
Field  of  Waterloo,  especially  for  a  single  traveller.  Those  who  merely 
desire  a  general  view  of  the  battle-field  should  take  the  train  to  Braine 
VAlleud  (fares  1  fr.  45.  1  fr.  10,  75  c),  whence  the  Hill  of  the  Lion  is  IV2  M. 
distant.     Omnibus  from  Braine  TAlIeud  to  the  Hill  of  the  Lion  and  back 


116    Route  13.  WATERLOO.  Sketch  of 

I'/i  fr.  (preferable  to  walking,  as  the  traveller  thus  escapes  tlie  importunity 
of  beggars).  The  walk  described  below,  from  Waterloo  to  Mont  St.  Jean,  La 
Haye  Sainte,  La  Belle  Alliance,  Plancenoit,  and  back  hy  Ilongomont  and  the 
lAon  Hill  to  Braine  VAlleud,  in  all  7-8  M.,  is,  however,  far  more  interest- 
ing. If  the  walk  be  prolonged  from  Plancenoit  to  the  S.  to  Genappe,  the 
whole  distance  will  be  about  12  M.  —  A  coach  leaves  Brussels  daily  (except 
Sundays)  between  9  and  10  a.m.  for  Waterloo,  allowing  2-3  hrs.  to  visit 
the  battle-field,  and  arrives  again  in  Brussels  about  5  p.m.  (drive  of  2  hrs.  -, 
refurn-fare  7fr).  It  starts  from  the  Place  Royale  and  calls  at  the  principal 
hotels  in  the  upper  town.  One-horse  carriage  from  Brussels  to  Waterloo, 
20  fr. ;  two-horse,  30  fr. 

The  train  starts  from  the  Station  du  Midi  at  Brussels  (p.  72), 
and  traverses  a  pleasant  country ,  passing  through  numerous  cut- 
tings.   Stations  Forest- Stalle,  Uccle,  Calevoet,  Rhode-Saint-Genese. 

10  M.  Waterloo,  celehrated  for  the  great  battle  of  18th  June, 
1815,  and  the  headquarters  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  from  17th 
to  19th  June.  The  village  lies  on  the  Brussels  and  Charleroi  road, 
3/4  M.  from  the  station.  The  church  contains  Wellington's  bust,  by 
Geefs ,  and  numerous  marble  slabs  to  the  memory  of  English  of- 
ficers. One  tablet  is  dedicated  to  the  officers  of  the  Highland  regi- 
ments, and  a  few  others  to  Dutch  officers. 

The  garden  of  a  peasant  (a  few  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  church") 
contains  an  absurd  monument  to  the  leg  of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesea 
(d.  1854),  then  Lord  Uxbridge,  the  commander  of  the  British 
cavalry,  who  underwent  the  amputation  immediately  after  the  battle. 
The  monument  bears  an  appropriate  epitaph,  and  is  shaded  by  a 
weeping  willow. 

Battle  Field.  A  visit  to  Mont  St.  Jean,  the  two  monuments  on 
the  battle-field,  the  Lion,  and  the  farms  of  La  Haye  Sainte  and 
Hougomont,  occupies  2  hrs.;  to  La  Belle  Alliance  and  Plancenoit 
2  hrs.  more.  The  traveller  will,  however,  obtain  a  general  survey  of 
the  field  during  the  first  2  hours. 

Guides.  The  annexed  plan  and  the  following  brief  sketch  of  Ihe  battle 
will  enable  the  visitor  to  form  a  distinct  conception  of  the  positions  occu- 
pied by  the  respective  armies  without  the  services  of  a  guide.  The  usual 
fee  for  the  principal  points  of  interest  is  2fr.  ;  if  the  excursion  be  extended 
to  Plancenoit  or  Planchenois  and  the  chateau  of  Frichemont,  3-4  fr.  ;  but 
an  agreement  should  invariably  be  made  beforehand. 

Kelics.  Old  bullets,  weapons,  buttons,  and  other  relics  are  still  occa- 
sionally turned  up  by  the  plough,  but  most  of  those  which  the  traveller  is 
importuned  to  purchase  are  spurious. 

Inns  at  Mont  .St.  .Tean:  Hotel  Mont  St.  Jean  and  (to  the  right  where 
the  road  to  IsMvelles  diverges  from  the  Namur  road)  Ildtel  des  Colonnex, 
where  Victor  Hugo  is  said  to  have  finished  his  'Wiserables'.  On  the 
mound  of  the  Lion,  "Hotel  du  Musde,  moderate. 

Sketch  of  the  Battle.  A  detailed  history  of  the  momentous  events 
of  18th  June,  1815,  would  be  beyond  the  scope  of  a  guide-book;  but  a 
brief  and  impartial  outline,  with  a  few  statistics  derived  from  the  most 
trustworthy  English  and  German  sources,  may  perhaps  be  acceptable  to 
those  who  visit  this  memorable  spot. 

The  ground  on  which  Wellington  took  up  his  position  after  the  Battle 
of  Quatre  Bras  was  admirably  adapted  for  a  defensive  battle.  The  high- 
roads from -Nivelles  and  Genappe  unite  at  the  village  of  Mont  Saint  Jean, 
whence  the  main  route  leads  to  Brussels.  In  front  of  the  village  extends  a 
long  chain  of  hills  with  gentle  slopes,  which  presented  all  the  advantages 


the  Battle.  WATERLOO.  13.  Route.    117 

sought  for  by  the  Allies.  The  undulating  ground  behind  this  range  afforded 
every  facility  for  posting  the  cavalry  and  reserves  so  as  to  conceal  them 
from  the  enemy.  In  this  favourable  position  Wellington  was  fully  justified 
in  hoping  at  least  to  hold  his  own,  even  against  a  stronger  enemy,  until  the 
assistance  promised  by  Bliicher  should  arrive. 

The  first  line  of  the  Allied  army,  beginning  with  the  right  wing  (on  the 
W.)  was  arranged  as  follows.  On  the  extreme  right  were  placed  two  bri- 
gades of  the  British  household  troops,  consisting  of  two  battalions  of  Foot- 
Guards  under  Gen.  Maitland,  and  two  battalions  of  the  Coldstream  Guards 
under  Gen.  Byng.  Kext  came  a  British  brigade  of  four  battalions  under 
Gen.  Sir  Colin  Halkett,  adjoining  whom  were  Kielmannsegge  with  five 
brigades  of  Hanoverians  and  a  corps  of  riflemen,  Col.  Ompteda  with  a  bri- 
gade of  the  German  Legion,  and  finally  Alten's  division.  The  whole  of  this 
portion  of  the  line  occupied  the  hills  between  the  l^ivelles  and  Genappe 
roads.  Beyond  the  latter  {i.e.,  farther  to  the  E.)  Kemp  was  stationed  with 
the  28th  and  32nd  regiments,  a  battalion  of  the  79th,  and  one  of  the  95th 
Rifles.  Next  came  Bylant  with  one  Belgian  and  five  Dutch  battalions,  sup- 
ported by  Pack's  brigade,  posted  a  short  distance  in  their  rear,  and  consist- 
ing of  the  44th.  These  four  battalions  had  sufi'ered  severely  at  Quatre  Bras 
and  were  greatly  reduced  in  number,  but  their  conduct  throughout  the 
battle  abundantly  proved  that  their  discipline  and  courage  were  unimpaired. 
Beyond  the  Netherlanders  were  drawn  up  Best's  Hanoverians  and  Picton's 
infantry  division,  the  latter  partly  composed  of  Hanoverians  under  Col. 
von  Vincke.  Next  to  these  were  stationed  Vandeleur's  brigade,  the  ilth, 
12th,  and  16th  Light  Dragoons,  and  finally  on  the  extreme  left  (to  the  E.) 
three  regiments  of  light  cavalry,  consisting  of  the  10th  and  18th  British,  and 
the  1st  Hussars  of  the  German  Legion. 

The  first  line  of  the  Allies  was  strengthened  at  various  distances  by 
Grant's  and  Doernberg's  cavalry-brigades,  consisting  of  three  English  regi- 
ments and  three  of  the  German  Legion  respectively,  and  posted  near  the 
Guards  and  Sir  Colin  Halkett.  Next  to  them  came  a  regiment  of  Hussars 
of  the  German  Legion  under  Col.  Arentschild ;  then,  to  the  E.  of  the 
Genappe  road,  two  heavy  brigades,  the  Household  and  the  Union,  to  sup- 
port Alten's  and  Picton's  divisions.  The  former  of  these  brigades  was  com- 
posed of  the  1st  and  2nd  Life  Guards  and  the  1st  Dragoon  Guards  under 
Lord  Ed.  Somerset;  the  latter  of  the  1st  Royal  Dragoons,  the  Scots  Greys, 
and  the  Irish  Inniskillens,  commanded  by  Gen.  Sir  W.  Ponsonby.  Besides 
the  first  line  and  the  troops  destined  to  cover  it,  various  other  forces  were 
distributed 'as  the  circumstances  and  the  formation  of  the  ground  required. 
Thus  a  brigade  under  Col.  Mitchell,  Sir  Henry  Clinton's  division,  Du  Plat's 
German  brigade,  Adam's  light  brigade,  and  Halkett's  Hanoverians  were 
drawn  up  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Nivelles  Chaussee  and  near  the  village  of 
Merbe  Braine.  Finally  the  reserve  of  Brunswickers  and  Netherlanders, 
comprising  infantry  and  cavalry,  formed  a  line  between  Merbe  Braine  and 
Mont  St.  Jean,  supported  by  Lambert's  British  brigade  of  three  regiments, 
which  had  just  arrived  by  forced  marches  from  Ostend.  —  The  artillery, 
consisting  chiefly  of  British  troops,  were  distributed  as  occasion  required. 
Every  battery  present  was  brought  into  action  during  the  day,  and  nobly 
fulfilled  its  duty. 

In  front  of  the  centre  of  the  Allied  army  lay  the  Chateau  of  Eougo- 
mont,  which  with  its  massive  buildings,  its  gardens  and  plantations,  formed 
an  admirable  point  (Tappni  for  the  defence  of  the  heights  above.  It  was 
garrisoned  by  two  light  companies  under  Lord  Saltoun,  and  two  under  Col. 
Macdonnel,  strengthened  by  a  battalion  of  Nassovians,  a  company  of  Hano- 
verian riflemen,  and  about  100  men  of  the  German  Legion.  This  point 
holds  a  prominent  place  in  the  history  of  the  battle,  both  on  account  of  the 
fury  with  which  it  was  attacked  by  the  French,  and  the  heroic  and  success- 
ful defence  of  its  occupants.  Farther  to  the  left,  and  nearer  the  front  of  the 
Allies,  lay  La  Haye  Sainte ,  a  farm-house  which  was  occupied  by  400 
men  of  the  German  Legion  under  Major  von  Baring,  but  after  a  noble  de- 
fence was  taken  by  the  French.  The  defence  of  the  farms  of  Papelotte 
and  La  Haye  on  the  extreme  left  was  entrusted  to  the  Nassovian  Brigade 
under  Duke  Bernard  of  'SVeimar. 


118      Route  13.  WATERLOO.  Sketch  of 

Napoleon's  army  was  drawn  up  in  a  semicircle  on  the  heights  to  the  E. 
and  W.  of  the  farm  of  La  Belle  Alliance,  about  one  mile  distant  from 
the  Allies.  It  was  arranged  in  two  lines,  with  a  reserve  iathe  rear.  The 
first  line  consisted  of  two  coys  d'arm^e  commanded  by  Reille  and  D'Erlon 
respectively,  and  flanked  by  cavalry  on  either  side.  One  corps  extended 
from  La  Belle  Alliance  westwards  to  the  Nivelles  road  nnd  I  cyond  it,  the 
other  eastwards  in  the  direction  of  the  chateau  of  Frichemont.  The 
second  line  was  composed  almost  entirely  of  cavalry.  Milhaud's  cuiras- 
siers and  the  light  cavalry  of  the  guards  were  drawn  up  behind  the  right 
wing,  Kellermann's  heavy  cavalry  behind  the  left.  A  bodj'  of  cavalry 
and  a  portion  of  Lobau's  corps  were  also  stationed  in  the  rear  of  the 
centre,  whilst  still  farther  back  the  imperial  guard,  consisting  of  infantry 
and  artillerv,   were  drawn  up  in  reserve  on  each  side  of  the  chaussee. 

The  Diike  of  Wellington's  array  consisted  of  67,6U0  men,  24,(X)0  of 
whom  were  British,  30,000  ti'oops  of  the  German  Legion,  Hanoverians, 
Brunswickers,  and  Nassovians,  and  13-14,000  Netherlanders.  Of  these 
12,400  were  cavalry,  5,600  artillery  with  180  guns.  The  army  brought 
into  the  field  by  Napoleon  numbered  71,900  men,  of  whom  15,700  were 
cavalry,  7,200  artillery  with  246  guns.  Numerically,  therefore,  the  dif- 
ference between  the  hostile  armies  was  not  great,  but  it  must  be  borne 
in  mind  that  no  reliance  could  be  placed  on  the  Netherlanders,  most  of 
whom  fled  at  an  early  stage  of  the  battle.  The  staunch  Dutch  troops 
who  formed  part  of  this  contingent  did  their  utmost  to  prevent  this  das- 
tardly act,  but  their  etTorts  were  unavailing.  Had  they  formed  a  separate 
corps  they  would  have  been  most  valuable  auxiliaries,  but  when  mingled 
with  the  Belgian  troops  their  bravery  was  utterly  paralysed.  Practically, 
therefore,  the  Duke's  army  consisted  of  barely  50,000  men,  composed  of 
four  or  five  different  elements ,  and  a  large  porportion  of  them  were 
raw  recruits,  whilst  the  soldiers  of  Napoleon  constituted  a  grand  and 
admirably-disciplined  unity,  full  of  enthusiasm  for  their  general ,  and 
confident  of  victory.  The  superiority  of  the  French  artillery  alone  was 
overwhelming. 

After  a  wet  and  stormy  night,  the  morning  of  the  18th  of  June  gave 
some  promise  of  clearing,  but  the  sky  was  still  overcast,  and  rain  con- 
tinued to  fall  till  an  advanced  hour.  The  ground,  moreover,  was  so 
thoroughly  saturated  that  the  movements  of  the  cavalry  and  artillery 
were  seriously  obstructed.  This  was  probably  the  cause  of  Napoleon's 
tardiness  in  attacking  the  Allies,  and  of  the  deliberation  with  which  he 
spent  several  of  the  best  hours  of  the  morning  in  arranging  his  army  with 
unusual  display.  It  is  not  known  precisely  at  what  hour  the  first  shots 
were  fired ;  some  authorities  mention  8  o'clock,  others  half-past  eleven  or 
twelve,  while  the  Duke  himself,  in  his  published  despatch,  names  ten  as 
the  hour  of  the  commencement  of  the  battle.  It  is,  however,  probable 
that  the  actual  fighting  did  not  begin  till  between  eleven  and  twelve. 

The  first  movement  on  the  part  of  the  French  was  the  advance  of  a 
division  of  Reille's  corps  cfarmie  under  Je'rome  Bonaparte,  a  detach- 
ment of  which  precipitated  itself  against  the  chateau  of  Hougomont,  and 
endeavoured  to  take  it  by  storm,  but  was  repulsed.  They  soon  renewed 
the  attack  with  redoubled  fury,  and  the  tirailleurs  speedily  forced  their 
way  into  the  enclosure,  notwithstanding  the  gallant  resistance  made  by 
the  Hanoverian  and  Nassovian  riflemen.  The  British  howitzers,  however, 
now  began  to  pour  such  a  deadly  shower  of  shells  on  the  assailants 
that  they  were  again  compelled  to  retreat.  This  was  but  the  prelude  to 
a  series  of  reiterated  assaults,  in  which  the  French  skirmishers  in  over- 
whelming numbers  were  more  than  once  nearly  successful.  Prodigies  of 
valour  on  the  part  of  the  defenders,  vigorously  seconded  by  the  artillery 
on  the  heights,  alone  enabled  the  garrison  to  hold  out  until  the  victory 
was  won.  Had  the  French  once  gained  possession  of  this  miniature  for- 
tress, a  point  of  vital  importance  to  the  Allies,  the  issue  of  the  day  would 
probably  have  been  very  different. 

Whilst  Hougomont  and  its  environs  continued  to  be  the  scene  of  a 
desperate  and  unremitting  conflict,  a  second  great  movement  on  the  part 
of  the  French   was  directed   against  the  centre  and   the  left  wing  of  the 


the  Battle.  .WATERLOO.  13.  Route.      119 

Allies.  Supported  by  a  cannonade  of  72  pieces,  the  whole  of  Erlon's  corps 
and  a  division  of  Kellermann's  cavalry,  comprising  upwards  of  18,000  men, 
bristled  in  columns  of  attack  on  the  heights  above  La  Haye  Sainte,  pre- 
senting a  magnificent  but  terrible  spectacle.  Their  object  was  to  storm 
La  Haye  Sainte,  break  through  the  centre  of  the  Allied  army,  and  attack 
the  left  wing  in  the  rear.  At  the  moment  when  Key  was  about  to  begin 
the  attack,  "Napoleon  observed  distant  indications  of  the  advance  of 
new  columns  on  his  extreme  right,  and  an  intercepted  despatch  proved 
that  they  formed  a  part  of  the  advanced  guard  of  Biilow's  Prussians, 
who  were  approaching  from  Wavre.  The  attack  was  therefore  delayed 
for  a  short  time,  and  Soult  despatched  a  messenger  to  Marshal  Grouchy, 
directing  him  to  manoeuvre  his  troops  so  as  to  intercept  the  Prussians. 
Owing,  however,  to  a  series  of  misunderstandings.  Grouchy  was  too  far 
distant  from  the  scene  of  action  to  be  of  any  service,  and  did  not  receive 
the  order  till  seven  in  the  evening. 

It  was  about  two  o'clock  when  Key  commenced  his  attack.  The  four 
divisions  of  Erlon's  corps  moved  rapidly  in  four  columns  towards  the  Allied 
line  between  La  Haye  Sainte  and  Sraouhen.  Papelotte  and  Smouhen  were 
stormed  by  Burettes  division,  but  the  former  was  not  long  maintained  by 
the  French.  Donzelat's  division  took  possession  of  the  gardens  of  La 
Haye  Sainte,  notwithstanding  the  brave  resistance  of  a  Hanoverian  bat- 
talion, while  the  two  other  French  divisions,  those  of  Alix  and  Marcog- 
net,  pressed  onwards  without  encountering  any  obstacle.  Hardly  had  the 
two  latter  opened  their  fire  on  Bylanfs  Ketherlandish  contingent,  when 
the  Belgians  were  seized  with  a  panic  and  thrown  into  confusion.  All 
the  efi'orts  of  their  officers  and  the  remonstrances  of  their  Dutch  com- 
rades were  utterly  unavailing  to  reassure  them,  and  amid  the  bitter 
execrations  of  the  British  regiments  they  fairly  took  to  flight.  Picton's 
division,  however,  now  consisting  solely  of  the  two  greatly-reduced  brigades 
of  Pack  and  Kemp,  and  mustering  barely  3000  men,  prepared  with  un- 
daunted resolution  to  receive  the  attack  of  the  two  French  divisions, 
numbering  upwards  of  13,000  infantry,  besides  cavalry.  The  struggle  was 
brief,  but  of  intense  fierceness.  The  charge  of  the  British  was  irresist- 
ible, and  in  a  few  moments  the  French  were  driven  back  totally  dis- 
comfited. The  success  was  brilliant,  but  dearly  purchased,  for  the  gallant 
Picton  himself  was  one  of  the  numerous  slain.  During  the  temporary  con- 
fusion which  ensued  among  Kemp's  troops,  who,  however,  soon  recovered 
their  order,  the  Duke  communicated  with  Lord  Uxbridge,  who  put  him- 
self at  the  head  of  Lord  Edward  Somerset's  Household  Brigade,  consisting 
of  two  regiments  of  Life  Guards,  the  Horse  Guards,  and  Dragoon  Guards. 
Meanwhile,  too,  a  body  of  Milhaud's  cuirassiers  had  advanced  somewhat 
prematurely  to  La  Haye  Sainte  and  endeavoured  to  force  their  way  up 
the  heights  towards  the  left  centre  of  the  Allied  line.  These  two  move- 
ments gave  rise  to  a  conflict  of  unparalleled  fury  between  the  elite  of  the 
cavalry  of  the  hostile  armies.  For  a  time  the  French  bravely  persevered, 
but  nothing  could  withstand  the  overwhelming  impetus  of  the  Guards  as 
they  descended  the  slope,  and  the  cuirassiers  were  compelled  to  fly  in 
wild  confusion.  Somerset's  brigade,  regardless  of  consequences  and  en- 
tirely unsupported,  pursued  with  eager  impetuosity.  At  this  juncture  two 
columns  of  the  French  infantry  had  advanced  on  Pack's  brigade.  The 
bagpipes  yelled  forth  their  war-cry,  and  the  gallant  Highlanders  dashed 
into  the  thickest  of  the  fight,  notwithstanding  the  terrible  majority  of 
their  enemy.  This  was  one  of  the  most  daring  exploits  of  the  day;  but 
the  mere  handful  of  Northmen  must  inevitably  have  been  cut  to  pieces 
to  a  man,  had  not  Col.  Ponsonby  with  the  Inniskillens,  the  Scots  Greys, 
and  the  Eoyal  Dragoons  opportunely  flown  to  the  rescue.  The  cavalry 
charge  was  crowned  with  brilliant  success,  and  the  French  infantry  were 
utterly  routed.  Pack's  troops  now  recovered  their  order,  and  were  re- 
strained from  the  pursuit,  but  Ponsonby's  cavalry,  intoxicated  with  suc- 
cess, swept  onwards.  The  Royals  encountered  part  of  Alix's  division, 
which  was  advancing  towards  Mont  St.  Jean,  where  a  gap  had  been  left 
by  the  flight  of  the  Belgians.  A  fearful  scene  of  slaughter  ensued,  and 
the  French   again   endeavoured   to  rally.     This   charge   was  simultaneous 


120    Route  13.  WATERLOO.  Sketch  of 

with  that  of  Lord  Uxbridge  on  the  cuirassiers,  as  mentioned  above.  At 
the  same  time  the  Greys  and  Inniskillens,  who  were  in  vain  commanded 
to  halt  and  rally,  madly  prosecuted  their  work  of  destruction.  Somerset's 
and  Ponsonbys  cavalry  had  thus  daringly  pursued  their  enemy  until  they 
actually  reached  the  French  line  near  Belle  Alliance.  Here,  however, 
their  victorious  career  was  checked.  A  fresh  body  of  French  cuirassiers 
and  a  brigade  of  lancers  were  put  in  motion  against  them,  and  they  were 
compelled  to  retreat  with  considerable  confusion  and  great  loss.  At  this 
crisis  Vandeleur's  Light  Dragoons  came  to  the  rescue,  and  the  tide  of  the 
contlict  was  again  turned ;  but  the  French,  whose  cavalry  far  outnumbered 
those  of  the  Allies,  again  compelled  the  British  to  abandon  the  unequal 
struggle.  Retreat  was  once  more  inevitable,  and  the  loss  immense,  but 
the  French  gained  no  decided  advantage.  Vandeleur  himself  fell,  and 
Ponsonby  was  left  on  the  field  dangerously  wounded. 

While  the  centre  and  left  of  the  Allied  line  were  thus  actively  en- 
gaged, the  right  was  not  suffered  to  repose.  At  a  critical  juncture,  when 
Lord  Saltoun  and  his  two  light  companies  were  sufl'ering  severely  in  the 
defence  of  the  orchard  of  Hougomont,  and  had  been  reduced  to  a  mere 
handful  of  men,  a  battalion  of  Guards  under  Col.  Hepburn  was  sent  to 
their  relief  and  drove  olT  the  French  tirailleurs,  whose  loss  was  enormous. 
The  chateau  had  meanwhile  taken  lire,  and  the  eflects  of  the  conflagration 
were  most  disastrous  to  the  little  garrison,  but  most  fortunately  for  the 
sufferers  the  progress  of  the  flames  was  arrested  near  the  doorway,  where 
a  crucifix  hung.  The  sacred  image  itself  was  injured,  but  not  destroyed; 
and  to  its  miraculous  powers  the  Belgians  attributed  the  preservation  of 
the  defenders.  There  was  now  a  pause  in  the  musketry  fire,  but  the 
cannonade  on  both  sides  continued  with  increasing  fury,  causing  frightful 
carnage.  Erlon's  and  Reille's  corps  sustained  a  loss  of  nearly  half  their 
numbers,  and  of  the  former  alone  3000  were  taken  prisoners.  Nearly  40 
of  the  French  cannon  were  moreover  silenced,  their  gunners  having  been 
slain.  Kapoleon  now  determined  to  make  amends  for  these  disasters  by 
an  overwhelming  cavalry  attack,  while  at  the  same  time  the  infantry 
divisions  of  Jerome  and  Foy  were  directed  to  advance.  Wilhaud's  cuiras- 
siers and  a  body  of  the  French  Guards,  40  squadrons  in  all,  a  most  mag- 
nificent and  formidable  array,  advanced  in  three  lines  from  the  French 
heights,  crossing  the  intervening  valley,  and  began  to  ascend  towards  the 
Allies.  During  their  advance  the  French  cannonade  was  continued  over 
their  heads,  ceasing  only  when  they  had  nearly  attained  the  brow  of  the 
opposite  hill.  The  Allied  artillery  poured  their  discharge  of  grape  and 
canister  against  the  enemy  with  deadly  eflect,  but  without  retarding  their 
progress.  In  accordance  with  the  Duke's  instructions,  the  artillerymen 
now  retreated  for  shelter  behind  the  line;  the  French  cavalry  charged, 
and  the  foremost  batteries  fell  into  their  possession.  The  Allied  infantry, 
Germans  as  well  as  British,  had  by  this  time  formed  into  squares.  There 
was  a  pause  on  the  part  of  the  cavalry,  who  had  not  expected  to  find 
their  enemy  in  such  perfect  and  compact  array  ;  but  after  a  momentary 
hesitation  they  dashed  onwards.  Thus  the  whole  of  the  cuirassiers,  fol- 
lowed by  the  lancers  and  chasseurs  swept  through  between  the  Allied 
squares,  but  without  making  any  impression  on  them.  Lord  Uxbridge, 
with  the  fragments  of  his  heavy  cavalry,  now  hastened  to  the  aid  of  the 
infantry,  and  drove  the  French  back  over  the  hill;  but  his  numbers  were 
too  reduced  to  admit  of  his  following  up  this  success,  and  before  long  the 
French,  vigorously  supported  by  their  cannonade,  returned.  Again  they 
swept  past  the  impenetrable  squares,  and  again  all  their  efforts  to  break 
them  were  completely  baffled,  while  their  own  ranks  were  terribly 
thinned  by  the  fire  of  the  undaunted  Allies.  Thus  foiled,  they  once  more 
abandoned  the  attack.  Donzelat's  infantry  had  meanwhile  been  advancing 
to  support  them,  but  seeing  this  total  discomfiture  and  retreat,  they  too 
retired  from  the  scene  of  action.  The  Allied  lines  were  therefore  again 
free,  and  the  cannonade  alone  was  now  continued  on  both  sides. 

After  this  failure,  Napoleon  commanded  Kellermanu,  with  his  dragoons 
and  cuirassiers,  to  support  the  retreating  masses,  and  Guyot's  heavy 
cavalry  of  the  Guards  advanced  with  the  same  object.     These  troops,  con- 


the  Battle.  WATERLOO.  13.  Route.     121 

sisting  of  37  fresli  squadrons,  formed  behind  the  shattered  fragments  of 
the  40  squadrons  above  mentioned,  and  rallied  them  for  a  renewed  attack, 
and  again  the  French  line  assumed  a  most  threatening  and  imposing 
aspect.  Perceiving  these  new  preparations,  the  Duke  of  Wellington  con- 
tracted his  line  so  as  to  strengthen  the  Allied  centre,  immediately  after 
which  manoeuvres  the  French  cannonade  burst  forth  with  redoubled  fury. 
Again  a  scene  precisely  similar  to  that  already  described  was  re-enacted. 
The  French  cavalry  ascended  the  heights,  where  they  were  received  with 
a  deadly  cannonade,  the  gunners  retired  from  their  pieces  at  the  latest 
possible"  moment,  the  French  rode  in  vast  numbers  between  the  squares, 
and  again  the  British  and  German  infantry  stood  immovable.  The  cavalry 
then  swept  past  them  towards  the  Allied  rear,  and  here  they  met  with 
partial  success,  for  a  body  of  Netherlanders  whom  they  had  threatened 
at  once  began  to  retreat  precipitately.  As  in  the  earlier  part  of  the 
day.  Lord  Uxbridge  flew  to  the  rescue  with  the  remnants  of  his  cavalry, 
vigorously  seconded  by  Somerset  and  Grant,  and  again  the  French  horse- 
men were  discomfited.  Lord  Uxbridge  now  ordered  a  brigade  of  Belgian 
and  Dutch  carbineers,  who  had  not  as  yet  been  in  action,  and  were 
stationed  behind  Mont  St.  Jean,  to  charge  the  French  cavalry  who  had 
penetrated  to  the  allied  rear  ;  but  his  commands  were  disregarded,  and 
the  Isetherlanders  took  to  flight.  A  body  of  Hussars  of  the  German 
Legion,  however,  though  far  outnumbered  by  their  enemy,  gallantly 
charged  them,  but  were  compelled  to  retreat.  The  battle-tield  at  this 
period  presented  a  most  remarkable  scene.  Friends  and  foes,  French, 
German,  and  British  troops,  were  mingled  in  apparently  inextricable  con- 
fusion. Still,  however,  the  Allied  squares  were  unbroken,  and  the  French 
attack,  not  being  followed  up  by  infantry,  was  again  a  failure.  The  assail- 
ants accordingly,  aa  before,  galloped  down  to  the  valley  in  great  confusion, 
after  having  sustained  some  disastrous  losses.  Lord  Uxbridge  attempted 
to  follow  up  this  advantage  by  bringing  forward  a  fresh  regiment  of 
Hanoverian  Hussars,  but  he  was  again  doomed  to  disappointment;  for 
the  whole  troop,  after  having  made  a  pretence  of  obeying  his  command, 
wheeled  round  and  fled  to  Brussels,  where  they  caused  the  utmost  con- 
sternation by  a  report  that  the  Allies  were  defeated. 

During  the  whole  of  this  time  the  defence  of  Hougomont  had  been 
gallantly  and  successfully  carried  on,  and  Du  Plat  with  his  Brunswickers 
had  behaved  with  undaunted  courage  when  attacked  by  French  cavalry 
and  tirailleurs  in  succession.  The  brave  general  himself  fell,  but  his 
troops  continued  to  maintain  their  ground,  whilst  Adam's  Brigade  ad- 
vanced to  their  aid.  Overwhelming  numbers  of  French  infantry,  how- 
ever, had  forced  their  way  between  them,  and  reached  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  threatening  the  right  wing  of  the  Allies  with  disaster.  At  this 
juncture  the  Duke  at  once  placed  himself  at  the  head  of  Adam's  brigade 
and  commanded  them  to  charge.  The  assault  was  made  with  the  utmost 
enthusiasm,  and  the  French  were  driven  from  the  heights.  The  entire 
Allied  line  had  hitherto  held  its  ground,  and  Hougomont  proved  impreg- 
nable. Napoleon  therefore  directed  his  elTorts  against  La  Have  Sainte,  a 
point  of  the  utmost  importance,  which  was  bravely  defended  by  Major 
von  Baring  and  his  staunch  band  of  Germans.  Key  accordingly  ordered 
Donzelat's  division  to  attack  the  miniature  fortress.  A  furious  cannonade 
opened  upon  it  was  the  prelude  to  an  attack  by  overwhelming  numbers  of 
tirailleurs.  The  ammunition  of  the  defenders  was  speedily  exhausted, 
the  buildings  took  fire,  and  Baring  with  the  utmost  reluctance  directed 
the  wreck  of  his  detachment  to  retreat  through  the  garden.  With  heroic 
bravery  the  major  and  his  gallant  officers  remained  at  their  posts  until 
tlie  French  had  actually  entered  the  house,  and  only  when  farther  resist- 
ance would  have  been  certain  death  did  they  finally  yield  (see  p.  126) 
and  retreat  to  the  lines  of  the  Allies.  After  this  success,  the  French  pro- 
ceeded to  direct  a  similar  concentrated  attack  against  Hougomont,  but  in 
vain,  for  arms  and  ammunition  were  supplied  in  abundance  to  the  little 
garrison,  whilst  the  cannonade  of  the  Allies  was  in  a  position  to  render 
them  efficient  service.  La  Haye  Sainte,  which  was  captured  between  5 
and  6  o'clock  p.m.,  now  became  a  most  advantageous  jpoint  d'appui  for  the 


1 22     Route  13.  WATERLOO.  Sketch  of 

French  liraillcurs,  in  support  of  whom  ^^oy,  during  upwards  of  an  hour, 
directed  a  succession  of  attacks  against  the  Allied  centre,  but  still  with- 
out succeeding  in  dislodging  or  dismaying  the  indomitable  squares.  Their 
numbers,  indeed,  were  tearfully  reduced,  but  their  spirit  was  unbroken. 
There  was,  moreover,  still  a  considerable  reserve  which  had  not  yet  been 
in  action,  although  perhaps  implicit  reliance  could  not  be  placed  on  their 
steadiness.  It  was  now  nearly  7  p.m.,  and  the  victory  on  which  the 
French  had  in  the  morning  so  confidently  reckoned  was  still  entirely 
unachieved. 

Meanwhile  Bliicher,  with  his  gallant  and  indefatigable  Prussians, 
whose  timely  arrival,  fortunately  for  the  Allies,  prevented  Napoleon  from 
employing  his  reserves  against  them,  had  been  toiling  across  the  wet  and 
spongy  valleys  of  St.  Lambert  and  the  Lasne  towards  the  scene  of  action. 
The  patience  of  the  weary  troops  was  well-nigh  exhausted.  '  We  can  go 
no  farther',  they  frequently  exclaimed.  'We  mugt\  was  Bliicher's  reply. 
'I  have  given  Wellington  my  word,  and  you  won't  make  me  break  it!' 
It  was  about  4.30  p.m.  when  the  lirst  Prussian  battery  opened  its  lire 
from  the  heights  of  Frichemont,  about  2'/4  miles  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Allied 
centre,  whilst  at  the  same  time  two  cavalry  regiments  advanced  to  the 
attack.  They  were  first  opposed  by  Domont's  cavalry  division,  beyond 
which  Lobau's  corps  approached  their  new  enemy.  One  by  one  the  dif- 
ferent brigades  of  Billow's  corps  arrived  on  the  field  between  Frichemont 
and  Planchenois.  Lobau  stoutly  resisted  their  attack,  but  his  opponents 
soon  became  too  powerful  for  him.  By  6  o'clock  the  Prussians  had  48 
guns  in  action,  the  balls  from  which  occasionally  reached  as  far  as  the 
Genappe  road.  Lobau  was  now  compelled  to  retreat  towards  the  vil- 
lage of  Planchenois,  a  little  to  the  rear  of  the  French  centre  at  Belle 
Alliance.  This  was  the  juncture,  between  G  and  7  o'clock,  when  Ney  was 
launching  his  reiterated  but  fruitless  attacks  against  the  Allied  centre, 
2'/i  miles  distant  from  this  point.  Napoleon  now  despatched  eight  bat- 
talions of  the  guard  and  24  guns  to  aid  Marshal  Lobau  in  the  defence  of 
Planchenois,  where  a  sanguinary  conflict  ensued,  Hiller's  brigade  en- 
deavoured to  take  the  village  by  storm,  and  succeeded  in  gaining  posses- 
sion of  the  churchyard,  but  a  furious  and  deadly  fusillade  from  the  houses 
compelled  them  to  yield.  Reinforcements  were  now  added  to  the  combat- 
ants of  both  armies.  Napoleon  sent  four  more  battalions  of  guards  to  the 
scene  of  acti(m,  while  fresh  columns  of  Prussians  united  with  Hiller's 
troops  and  prepared  for  a  renewed  assault.  Again  the  village  was  taken, 
and  again  lost,  the  French  even  venturing  to  push  their  way  to  the  vicinity 
of  the  Prussian  line.  The  latter,  however,  was  again  reinforced  by  Tip- 
pelskirch's  brigade,  a  portion  of  which  at  once  participated  in  the  struggle. 
About  7  o'clock  Zieten  arrived  on  the  field,  and  united  his  brigade  to  the 
extreme  left  of  the  Allied  line,  which  he  aided  in  the  contest  near  La 
Haye  and  Papelotte.  Prussians  continued  to  arrive  later  in  the  evening 
but  of  course  could  not  now  influence  the  issue  of  the  battle.  It  became 
apparent  to  Napoleon  at  this  crisis  that  if  the  Prussians  succeeded  in 
capturing  Planchenois ,  while  Wellington's  lines  continued  steadfast  in 
their  position,  a  disastrous  defeat  of  his  already  terribly-reduced  army  was 
inevitable.  He  therefore  resolved  to  direct  a  final  and  desperate  attack 
against  the  Allied  centre,  and  to  stimulate  the  flagging  energies  of  his 
troops  caused  a  report  to  be  spread  amongst  them  that  Grouchy  was  ap- 
proaching to  their  aid,  although  well  knowing  this  to  be  impossible. 

Napoleon  accordingly  commanded  eight  battalions  of  his  reserve  Guards 
to  advance  in  two  columns,  one  towards  the  centre  of  the  Allied  right,  the 
other  nearer  to  Hougomont,  while  they  were  supported  by  a  reserve  of 
two  more  battalions,  consisting  in  all  of  about  5U00  veteran  soldiers,  who 
had  not  as  yet  been  engaged  in  the  action.  Between  these  columns  were 
the  remnc.nts  of  Erlon's  and  Reille's  corps,  supported  by  cavalry;  and 
somewhat  in  front  of  them  Donzelat's  division  was  to  advance.  Mean- 
while the  Uuke  hastened  to  prepare  the  wreck  of  his  army  to  meet  the 
attack.  Dn  Plats  Brunswickers  took  up  their  position  nearly  opposite  La 
Haye  Sainte,  between  Halkett's  and  Alten's  divisions.  Maitland's  and 
Adam's    brigades    were    nominally    sujiported    by    a  division   of    Nether- 


the  Battle.  WATERLOO.  13.  Route.      123 

landers  under  Gen.  Chasse,  while  Vivian  with  bis  cavalry  quitted  the 
extreme  left  and  drew  up  in  the  rear  of  Kruse's  Xassovians,  who  had 
already  suffered  severely,  and  now  began  to  exhibit  symptoms  of  wa- 
vering. Every  available  gun  was  posted  in  front  of  the  line,  and  the 
orchard  and  plantations  of  Hougomont  were  strengthened  by  reinforce- 
ments. The  prelude  to  the  attack  of  the  French  was  a  renewed  and 
furious  cannonade,  which  caused  frightful  havoc  among  the  Allies.  Don- 
zelat's  division  then  advanced  in  dense  array  from  La  Haye  Sainte,  in- 
trepidly pushing  their  way  to  the  very  summit  of  the  height  on  which 
the  Allies  stood.  At  the  same  time  several  French  guns  supported  by 
them  were  brought  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  Allied  front,  on  which 
they  opened  a  most  murderous  cannonade.  Kielmannscgge's  Hanoverians 
sutlered  severe  loss,  the  wreck  of  Ompteda's  German  brigade  was  almost 
annihilated,  and  Kruses  Xassovians  were  only  restrained  from  taking  to 
llight  by  the  etTorts  of  Vivian's  cavalry.  The  Prince  of  Orange  then  ral- 
lied the  Xassovians  and  led  them  to  the  charge,  but  they  were  again  driven 
back,  and  the  Prince  himself  severely  wounded.  Du  Plat's  Brunswickers 
next  came  to  the  rescue  and  fought  gallantly,  but  with  no  better  result. 
The  Duke,  however,  rallied  them  in  person,  and  the  success  of  the  French 
was  brief.  At  the  same  time  the  chief  fury  of  the  storm  was  about  to 
burst  forth  farther  to  the  right  of  the  Allies.  The  Imperial  Guard,  com- 
manded by  the  heroic  Xey,  Friant,  and  Michel,  and  stimulated  to  the  ut- 
most enthusiasm  by  an  address  from  Napoleon  himself,  formed  in  threaten- 
ing and  imposing  masses  on  the  heights  of  Belle  Alliance,  and  there  was 
a  temporary  lull  in  the  French  cannonade.  The  two  magnificent  columns, 
the  flower  of  the  French  army,  were  now  put  in  motion,  one  towards 
Hougomont  and  Adam's  brigade,  the  other  in  the  direction  of  Maitland 
and  his  Guards.  As  soon  as  the  Guards  had  descended  from  the  heights, 
the  French  batteries  recommenced  their  work  of  destruction  with  terrible 
fury  and  precision,  but  were  soon  compelled  to  desist  when  they  could  no 
longer  fire  over  the  heads  of  their  infantry.  The  latter  had  nearly  attained 
the  summit  of  the  heights  of  the  Allies,  when  the  British  gunners  again 
resumed  their  work  with  redou1)led  energy,  making  innumerable  gaps  in 
the  ranks  of  their  assailants.  Ney's  horse  was  shot  under  him,  but  the 
gallant  marshal  continued  to  advance  on  foot ;  Michel  was  slain,  and  Friant 
dangerously  wounded.  Notwithstanding  these  casualties,  the  Guards  gained 
the  summit  of  the  hill  and  advanced  towards  that  part  of  the  line  where 
Maitland's  brigade  had  been  ordered  to  lie  down  behind  the  ridge  in 
the  rear  of  the  battery  which  crowned  it.  The  Duke  commanded  here 
in  person  at  this  critical  juncture.  The  French  tirailleurs  were  speedily 
swept  away  by  showers  of  grape  and  canister,  but  the  column  of  French 
veterans  continued  to  advance  towards  the  apparently-unsupported  battery. 
At  this  moment  the  Duke  gave  the  signal  to  Maitland,  whose  Guards  in- 
stantaneously sprang  from  the  earth  and  saluted  their  enemy  with  a 
fierce  and  murderous  discharge.  The  effect  was  irresistible,  the  French 
column  was  rent  asunder  and  vainly  endeavoured  to  deploy  5  Maitland 
and  Lord  Saltoun  gave  orders  to  charge,  and  the  British  Guards  fairly 
drove  their  assailants  down  the  hill.  —  Meanwhile  the  other  column  of 
the  Imperial  Guard  was  advancing  farther  to  the  right,  although  vigorously 
opposed  by  the  well-sustained  fire  of  the  British  artillerj-,  and  Maitland's 
Guards  returned  rapidly  and  without  confusion  to  their  position  to  pre- 
pare for  a  new  emergency.  By  means  of  a  skilful  manoeuvre,  Col.  Col- 
bome,  with  the  52nd,  71st,  and  85th  now  brought  his  forces  to  bear  on 
the  flank  of  the  advancing  column,  on  which  the  three  regiments  simul- 
taneously poured  their  fire.  Here,  too,  the  British  arms  were  again  suc- 
cessful, and  frightful  havoc  was  committed  in  the  French  ranks.  A  scene 
of  indescribable  confusion  ensued,  during  which  many  of  Chasse's  Xethcr- 
landers  in  the  rear  took  to  flight,  knowing  nothing  of  the  real  issue  of 
the  attack.  At  the  same  time  Maitland  and  his  Guards  again  charged 
with  fierce  impetuosity  from  their  '  mountain  throne  ■•,  and  completed  the 
rout  of  this  second  column  of  the  Imperial  Guard.  In  this  direction, 
therefore,  the  fate  of  the  French  was  sealed,  and  the  Allies  were  tri- 
umphant.    Farther  to  the  left  of  the  Allied  line,  moreover,  the  troops  of 


124    Route  13.  WATERLOO.  Battle  Field 

DoDzelat,  Erlon,  and  Reille  were  in  the  utmost  confusion,  and  totally  un- 
able to  sustain  the  conflict.  On  the  extreme  left,  however,  the  right  wing 
of  the  French  wa3  still  unbroken,  and  the  Young  Guard  valiantly  defended 
Planchenois  against  the  Prussians,  who  fought  with  the  utmost  bravery 
and  perseverance  notwithstanding  the  fearful  losses  they  were  sustain- 
ing. Lobau  also  stoutly  opposed  Biilow  and  his  gradually -increasing 
corps.  Kapoleon's  well-known  final  order  to  his  troops  —  '  Tout  est  per- 
du !  Sauve  qui  pent ! '  was  wrung  from  him  in  his  despair  on  seeing  his 
Guard  utterly  routed,  his  cavalry  dispersed,  and  his  reserves  consumed. 
This  was  about  8  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  the  whole  of  the  Allied  line, 
with  the  Duke  himself  among  the  foremost,  now  descended  from  their 
heights,  and,  notwithstanding  a  final  attempt  at  resistance  on  the  part  of 
the  wreck  of  the  Imperial  Guard,  swept  all  before  them,  mounted  the 
enemy's  heights,  and  even  passed  Belle  Alliance  itself.  Still  the  battle 
raged  fiercely  at  and  around  Planchenois,  but  shortly  after  8  o'clock  the 
gallant  efforts  of  the  Prussians  were  crowned  with  success.  Planchenois 
was  captured,  Lobau  and  the  Young  Guard  defeated  after  a  most  obstinate 
and  sanguinary  struggle,  the  French  retreat  became  general,  and  the  vic- 
tory was  at  length  completely  won.  Kot  until  the  Duke  was  perfectly 
assured  of  this  did  he  finally  give  the  order  for  a  general  halt,  and  the 
Allies  now  desisted  from  the  pursuit  at  a  considerable  distance  beyond 
Belle  Alliance.  On  his  way  back  to  Waterloo,  Wellington  met  Bliicher 
at  the  Maison  Rouge,  or  Blaison  du  Roi,  not  far  from  Belle  Alliance,  and 
after  mutual  congratulations  both  generals  agreed  that  they  must  advance 
on  Paris  without  delay.  Bliicher,  moreover,  many  of  whose  troops  were 
comparatively  fresh,  undertook  that  the  Prussians  should  continue  the 
pursuit,  a  task  of  no  slight  importance  and  difficulty,  which  Gen.  Gneise- 
nau  most  admirably  executed,  thus  in  a  great  measure  contributing  to  the 
ease  and  rapidity  of  the  Allied  march  to  Paris. 

So  ended  one  of  the  most  sanguinary  and  important  battles  which 
history  records,  in  the  issue  of  which  the  whole  of  Europe  was  deeply 
interested.  With  the  few  exceptions  already  mentioned,  all  the  troops 
concerned  fought  with  great  bravery,  and  many  prodigies  of  valour  on  the 
part  of  regiments,  and  acts  of  daring  heroism  by  individuals,  are  on 
record.  The  loss  of  life  on  this  memorable  day  was  commensurate  with 
the  long  duration  and  fearful  obstinacy  of  the  battle.  Upwards  of  50,000 
soldiers  perished,  or  were  fiors  de  combat,  whilst  the  sufferings  of  the 
wounded  baffle  description.  The  loss  of  the  Allies  (killed,  wounded,  and 
missing)  amounted  to  about  14,000  men.  Of  these  the  British  alone  lost  6932, 
including  456  officers  ;  the  German  contingents  4494,  including  246  officers. 
The  total  loss  of  the  Prussians  was  6682  men,  of  whom  223  were  officers. 
The  Netherlanders  estimated  their  loss  at  4000  from  the  15th  to  18th  June. 
The  loss  of  the  French  has  never  been  ascertained  with  certainty,  but 
probably  amounted  to  30,000  at  least,  besides  7800  prisoners  taken  by  the 
Allies.  About  227  French  guns  were  also  captured,  150  by  the  Allies,  the 
rest  by  the  Prussians. 

Napoleon's  errors  in  the  conduct  of  the  battle  were  perhaps  chiefly 
these,  that  he  began  the  battle  at  too  late  an  hour  of  the  day,  that  he 
wasted  his  cavalry  reserves  in  a  reckless  manner,  and  that  he  neglected 
to  take  into  account  the  steadiness  with  which  British  infantry  are  wont 
to  maintain  their  ground.  The  Duke  of  Wellington  is  sometimes  blamed 
for  giving  battle  with  a  forest  in  the  rear,  which  would  preclude  the  pos- 
sibility of  retreat ;  but  the  groundlessness  of  the  objection  is  apparent  to 
those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  locality,  for  not  only  is  the  Foret  de 
Soignes  traversed  by  good  roads  in  every  direction,  but  it  consists  of  lofty 
trees  growing  at  considerable  intervals  and  unencumbered  by  underwood. 
It  is  a  common  point  of  controversy  among  historians,  whether  the  victo- 
rious issue  of  the  battle  was  mainly  attributable  to  the  British  or  the 
Prussian  troops.  The  true  answer  probably  is,  that  the  contest  would 
have  been  a  drawn  battle  but  for  the  timely  arrival  of  the  Prussians.  It 
has  already  been  shown  how  the  Allied  line  successfully  baffled  the 
utmost  efforts  of  the  French  until  7  p.m.,  and  how  they  gloriously  repelled 
the    final    and    most   determined    attack   of  the  Imperial    Guard  about  8 


of  Waterloo.  MONT  ST.  JEAN.  13.  Route.      125 

o'clock.  The  British  troops  and  most  of  their  German  contingents,  there- 
fore, unquestionably  bore  the  burden  and  heat  of  the  day,  they  virtually 
annihilated  the  flower  of  the  French  cavalry,  and  committed  fearful  havoc 
among  the  veteran  Guards,  on  whom  Kapoleon  had  placed  his  utmost  re- 
liance. At  the  same  time  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  first  Prussian 
shots  were  fired  about  half-past  four,  that  by  half-past  six  upwards  of 
15,000  of  the  French  (Lobau's  corps,  consisting  of  6600  infantry  and  1000 
artillery,  with  30  guns  ;  12  battalions  of  the  Young  Imperial  Guard,  about 
6000  men  in  all ;  18  squadrons  of  cavalry,  consisting  of  nearly  2000  men) 
were  drawn  oflf  for  the  new  struggle  at  iPlanchenois,  and  that  the  loss  of 
the  Prussians  was  enormous  for  a  conflict  comparatively  so  brief,  proving 
how  nobly  and  devotedly  they  performed  their  part.  The  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington himself,  in  his  despatch  descriptive  of  the  battle,  says  '  that  the 
British  army  never  conducted  itself  better,  that  he  attributed  the  success- 
ful issue  of  the  battle  to  the  cordial  and  timely  assistance  of  the  Prus- 
sians, that  Billow's  operation  on  the  enemy's  flank  was  most  decisive,  and 
would  of  itself  have  forced  the  enemy  to  retire,  even  if  he  (the  Duke)  had 
not  been  in  a  situation  to  make  the  attack  which  produced  the  final 
result '.  The  French  colonel  Cfiarras.,  in  his  '  Campagne  de  1815 '  (pub. 
at  Brussels,  1858),  a  work  which  was  long  prohibited  in  France,  thus 
sums  up  his  opinion  regarding  the  battle  :  '  WeUington  par  sa  te'nacite 
ine'branlable ,  Bliicher  par  son  activite  audacieuse,  tons  les  deux  par 
rhabilite  et  I'accord  de  leurs  mancEuvres  ont  produit  ce  resultat'.  —  The 
battle  is  usually  named  by  the  Germans  after  the  principal  position  of  the 
French  at  Belle  Alliance,  but  is  is  far  more  widely  known  as  the  Battle  of 
Waterloo,  the  name  given  to  it  by  Wellington  himself. 

About  halfway  to  Mont  St.  Jean ,  which  is  about  3  M.  from 
Waterloo,  is  the  monument  of  Col.  Stables,  situated  behind  a  farm- 
house on  the  right,  and  not  visible  from  the  road.  The  road  to  the 
left  leads  to  Tervueren,  a  royal  chateau,  once  the  property  of  the 
Prince  of  Orange.  The  royal  stud  was  kept  here  till  1857,  when 
it  was  transferred  to  the  old  abbey  of  Gemhloux  (p.  191). 

The  road  from  Waterloo  to  Mont  St.  Jean  {Hotel  des  Colonnes, 
p.  116)  is  bordered  by  an  almost  uninterrupted  succession  of  houses. 
At  the  village,  as  already  remarked,  the  road  to  Nivelles  diverges 
to  the  right  from  that  to  Namur.  To  the  right  and  left,  immediately 
beyond  the  last  houses,  are  depressions  in  the  ground  where  the 
British  reserves  were  stationed. 

About  2/g  M.  beyond  the  village  we  next  reach  a  bye-road, 
which  intersects  the  high-road  at  a  right  angle ,  leading  to  the  left 
to  Wavre,  and  to  the  right  to  Braine  I'Alleud.  Here,  at  the  corner 
to  the  right,  once  stood  an  elm,  under  which  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
is  said  to  have  remained  during  the  greater  part  of  the  battle.  The 
story,  however,  is  unfounded,  as  it  is  well  known  that  the  Duke 
was  almost  ubiquitous  on  that  memorable  occasion.  The  tree  has  long 
since  disappeared  under  the  knives  of  credulous  relic-hunters. 

On  the  left,  beyond  the  cross-road,  stands  an  Obelisk  (PI.  i)  to 
the  memory  of  the  Hanoverian  officers  of  the  German  Legion, 
among  whose  names  that  of  the  gallant  Ompteda  stands  first. 
Opposite  to  it  rises  a  Pillar  (PI.  k)  to  the  memory  of  Colonel  Gor- 
don, bearing  a  touching  inscription.  Both  these  monuments  stand 
on  the  original  level  of  the  ground,  which  has  here  been  consider- 
ably lowered  to  furnish  materials  for  the  mound  of  the  lion.      In 


126     Route  13.  LA  HAYE  SAINTE.  Battle  Field 

this  neighbourliood  Lord  Fitzroy  Somerset,  afterwards  Lord  Raglan, 
the  Duke's  military  secretary,  lost  his  arm. 

About  1/4  M.  to  the  right  rises  the  Mound  of  the  Belgian  Lion 
(PI.  13,  200  ft.  in  height,  thrown  up  on  the  spot  where  the  Prince 
of  Orange  was  wounded  in  the  battle.  The  lion  was  cast  by  Cockerill 
of  Liege  (p.  213 ),  with  the  metal  of  captured  French  cannon,  and 
is  said  to  weigh  28  tons.  The  French  soldiers,  on  their  march  to 
Antwerp  in  1832,  hacked  off  part  of  the  tail,  but  Marshal  Ge'rard 
protected  the  monument  from  farther  injury.  The  mound  commands 
the  best  survey  of  the  battle-field,  and  the  traveller  who  is  furnished 
with  the  plan  and  the  sketch  of  the  battle,  and  has  consulted  the 
maps  at  the  Hotel  du  Musee,  will  here  be  enabled  to  form  an  idea  of 
the  progress  of  the  fight.  The  range  of  heights  which  extends  past 
the  mound,  to  Ohain  on  the  E.  and  to  Merbe-Braine  on  the  W.,  was 
occupied  by  the  first  line  of  the  Allies.  As  the  crest  of  these 
heights  is  but  narrovp,  the  second  line  was  enabled  to  occupy  a  shel- 
tered and  advantageous  position  on  the  N.  slopes,  concealed  from  the 
eye  of  their  enemy.  The  whole  line  was  about  l^-jM-  in  length, 
forming  a  semicircle  corresponding  to  the  form  of  the  hills.  The 
centre  lay  between  the  mound  and  the  Hanoverian  monument. 

The  chain  of  heights  occupied  by  the  French  is  1  M.  distant, 
and  separated  from  the  Allied  position  by  a  shallow  intervening 
valley,  across  which  the  French  columns  advanced  without  manoeu- 
vering,  being  however  invariably  driven  back.  The  Allied  centre 
was  protected  by  the  farm  of  La  Haye  Sainte,  situated  on  the  right 
of  the  road,  about  100  paces  from  the  two  monuments.  It  was 
defended  with  heroic  courage  by  a  light  battalion  of  the  German 
Legion,  commanded  by  Major  v.  Baring,  whose  narrative  is  ex- 
tremely interesting. 

After  giving  a  minute  description  of  the  locality  and  the  disposition  of 
his  troops,  he  graphically  depicts  the  furious  and  repeated  assaults  suc- 
cessfully warded  off  by  his  little  garrison,  and  his  own  intense  excitement 
and  distress  on  finding  that  their  stock  of  ammxinition  was  nearly 
expended.  Then  came  the  terrible  catastrophe  of  the  buildings  taking 
fire,  which  the  gallant  band  succeeded  in  extinguishing  by  pouring  water 
on  it  from  their  camp-kettles,  although  not  without  the  sacrifice  of  several 
more  precious  lives.  "Many  of  my  men",  he  continues,  "although 
covered  with  wounds,  could  not  be  induced  to  keep  back.  'As  long  as 
our  officers  fight,  and  we  can  stand',  was  their  invariable  answer,  'we 
won't  move  from  the  spot! '  I  should  be  unjust  to  the  memory  of  a  rifle- 
man named  Frederick  Lindau,  if  I  omitted  to  mention  his  brave  conduct. 
He  had  received  two  severe  wounds  on  the  head,  and  moreover  had  in  his 
pocket  a  purseful  of  gold  which  he  had  taken  from  a  French  officer. 
Alike  regardless  of  his  wounds  and  his  prize,  he  stood  at  a  small  side- 
door  of  the  barn,  whence  he  could  command  with  his  rifle  the  great  en- 
trance in  front  of  him.  Seeing  that  his  bandages  were  insufficient  to 
stop  the  profuse  bleeding  from  his  wounds,  I  desired  him  to  retire,  but 
he  positively  refused,  saying :  '  A  craven  is  he  who  would  desert  you  as 
long  as  his  head  is  on  his  shoulders! '  He  was,  however,  afterwards  taken 
prisoner,  and  of  course  deprived  of  his  treasure. "  He  then  relates  to 
what  extremities  they  were  reduced  by  the  havoc  made  in  the  building  by 
the  French  cannonade,  and  how  at  length,  when  their  ammunition  was 
almost   exhausted,    they  perceived   two   fresh   columns    marching  against 


of  Waterloo.  HOUGOMONT.  13.  Route.     127 

them.  Again  the  enemy  succeeded  in  setting  the  barn  on  fire,  and  again 
it  was  successfully  extinguished  in  the  same  manner  as  before. 

"Every  shot  we  fired  increased  my  anxiety  and  distress.  I  again  de- 
spatched a  messenger  for  aid ,  saying  that  I  must  abandon  the  defence 
if  not  provided  with  ammunition ,  —  but  in  vain !  As  our  fusillade 
diminished ,  our  embarrassment  increased.  Several  voices  now  ex- 
claimed :  'We  will  stand  by  you  most  willingly,  but  we  must  have  the 
means  of  defending  ourselves  !  '  Even  the  officers,  who  had  exhibited 
the  utmost  bravery  throughout  the  day,  declared  the  place  now  untenable. 
The  enemy  soon  perceived  our  defenceless  condition,  and  boldly  broke  open 
one  of  the  doors.  As  but  few  could  enter  at  a  time,  all  who  crossed  the 
threshold  were  bayonetted,  and  those  behind  hesitated  to  encounter  the 
same  fate.  They  therefore  clambered  over  the  walls  and  roofs,  whence 
they  could  shoot  down  my  poor  fellows  with  impunity.  At  the  same  time 
they  thronged  in  through  the  open  barn,  which  could  no  longer  be  de- 
fended. Indescribably  hard  as  it  was  for  me  to  yield,  yet  feelings  of 
humanity  now  prevailed  over  those  of  honour.  I  therefore  ordered  my 
men  to  retire  to  the  garden  at  the  back.  The  effort  with  which  these 
words  were  wrung  from  me  can  only  be  understood  by  those  who  have 
been  in  a  similar  position." 

"  As  the  passage  of  the  house  was  very  narrow,  several  of  my  men 
were  overtaken  before  they  could  escape.  One  of  these  was  the  Ensign 
Frank,  who  had  already  been  wounded.  He  ran  through  with  his  sabre 
the  first  man  who  attacked  him,  but  the  next  moment  his  arm  was  broken 
by  a  bullet.  He  then  contrived  to  escape  into  one  of  the  rooms  and  con- 
ceal himself  behind  a  bed.  Two  other  men  fled  into  the  same  room, 
closely  pursued  by  the  French,  who  exclaimed:  '^  Pas  de  pardon  a  ces 
brigands  verisT  and  shot  them  down  before  his  eyes.  Most  fortunately, 
however,  he  remained  undiscovered  until  the  house  again  fell  into  our 
hands  at  a  later  hour.  As  I  was  now  convinced  that  the  garden  could 
not  possibly  be  maintained  when  the  enemy  was  in  possession  of  the  house, 
I  ordered  the  men  to  retreat  singly  to  the  main  position  of  the  army.  The 
enemy,  probably  satisfied  with  their  success,  molested  us  no  farther." 

The  door  of  the  house  still  bears  traces  of  the  French  bullets. 
Several  of  the  unfortunate  defenders  fled  into  the  kitchen,  adjoining 
the  garden  at  the  back  on  the  left.  The  window  was  and  is  still 
secured  with  iron  bars,  so  that  all  escape  was  cut  off.  Several 
were  shot  here,  and  others  thrown  into  the  kitchen-well,  where 
their  bodies  were  found  after  the  battle.  An  iron  tablet  bears  an 
inscription  to  the  memory  of  the  officers  and  privates  who  fell  in 
the  defence  of  the  house. 

Farther  to  the  W.  are  Papelotte,  La  Haye,  and  Smouhen,  which 
served  as  advanced  works  of  the  Allies  on  their  extreme  left. 
They  were  defended  by  Nassovians  and  Netherlanders  under  Duke 
Bernhard  of  Saxe- Weimar,  but  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French 
about  half-past  5  o'clock. 

The  defenders  of  Goumont,  or  Hougomont,  another  advanced 
work  of  the  Allies,  situated  about  ^/o^^-  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Lion, 
were  more  fortunate.  This  interesting  spot  formed  the  key  to  the 
British  position,  and  had  Napoleon  once  gained  possession  of  it,  his 
advantage  would  have  been  incalculable.  The  buildings  still  bear 
many  traces  of  the  fearful  scenes  which  were  enacted  here.  It  is 
computed  that  throughout  the  day  the  attacks  of  nearly  12,000  men 
in  all  were  launched  against  this  miniature  fortress,  notwithstand- 
ing which  the  garrison  held   out  to  the   last   (see  p.  128).     The 


128     lioute  13.  HOUGOMONT.  Battle  Field 

French  stormed  the  orchard  and  garden  several  times,  hut  they 
did  not  succeed  in  penetrating  into  the  precincts  of  the  build- 
ings. The  latter,  moreover,  caught  fire,  adding  greatly  to  the  em- 
barrassment of  the  defenders,  but  happily  the  progress  of  the 
flames  was  arrested.  Ilougomont  was  at  that  time  an  old,  partly 
dilapidated  chateau ,  to  which  several  outbuildings  were  attached. 
The  whole  was  surrounded  by  a  strong  wall,  in  which  numerous 
loop-holes  had  been  made  by  express  orders  of  the  Duke  in  person, 
thus  forming  an  admirable  though  diminutive  stronghold.  Notwith- 
standing these  advantages,  however,  its  successful  defence  against 
the  persistent  attacks  of  overwhelming  numbers  was  solely  due  to 
the  daring  intrepidity  of  the  little  garrison.  The  wood  by  which 
it  was  once  partly  surrounded  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the 
cannonade.  The  loop-holes,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  the  bullets, 
are  still  seen,  and  the  place  presents  a  shattered  and  ruinous  aspect 
to  this  day.  The  orchard  contains  the  graves  of  Capt.  Blackman, 
who  fell  here,  and  of  Sergt.  Cotton,  a  veteran  of  Waterloo  who  died 
at  Mont  St.  Jean  in  1849  (Y2  fr-  is  exacted  from  each  visitor  to 
the  farm").    Ilougomont  is  about  1  M.  from  Braine  I'Alleud  (p.  180). 

Prodigies  of  valour  were  performed  by  the  Coldstrcams  and  their 
auxiliaries  at  Hougomont,  and  fortunately  with  a  more  successful  result 
than  that  which  attended  their  heroic  German  allies  at  La  Haye  Sainte. 
At  one  critical  juncture  the  French  were  within  a  hair's  breadth  of 
capturing  this  fiercely-contested  spot.  They  forced  their  way  up  to  the 
principal  gate,  which  was  insufficiently  barricaded,  and  rushing  against 
it  in  dense  crowds  actually  succeeded  in  bursting  it  open.  A  fearful  strug- 
gle ensued.  The  Guards  charged  the  assailants  furiously  with  their 
bayonets,  whilst  Col.  Macdonnel,  Capt.  Wyndham,  Ensign  Gooch,  Ensign 
Hervey,  and  Serg.  Graham,  by  dint  of  main  force  and  daring  courage, 
contrived  to  close  the  gate  in  the  very  face  of  the  enemy.  —  At  a  later 
hour  a  vehement  assault  was  made  on  the  back-gate  of  the  offices,  the 
barricades  of  which  threatened  to  yield,  although  crowds  of  the  assailants 
were  swept  away  by  a  well-directed  fire  from  the  loop-holes.  At  the 
same  time  one  of  the  French  shells  set  fire  to  the  buildings,  and  the  flames 
burst  forth  with  an  ominous  glare.  Sergt.  Graham  immediately  requested 
leave  of  Col.  Macdonnel  to  retire  for  a  moment,  which  the  latter  accorded, 
although  not  without  an  expression  of  surprise.  A  few  moments  later 
the  gallant  sergeant  re-appeared  from  amidst  the  blazing  ruins,  bearing 
his  wounded  brother  in  his  arms,  deposited  him  in  a  place  of  safety,  and 
at  once  resumed  his  work  in  strengthening  the  barricades,  where  the 
danger  was  rapidly  becoming  more  and  more  imminent.  Suddenly  a  French 
grenadier  was  seen  on  the  top  of  the  wall,  which  he  and  his  comrades  were 
in  the  act  of  scaling.  Capt.  Wyndham,  observing  this,  shouted  to  Graham  : 
'Do  you  see  that  fellow?"  Graham,  thus  again  interrupted  in  his  work, 
snatched  up  his  musket,  took  aim,  and  shot  the  Frenchman  dead.  No 
others  dared  to  follow,  the  attack  on  the  gate  was  abandoned  by  the 
enemy,  and  the  danger  again  successfully  averted.  Similar  attacks  were 
launched  against  the  chateau  with  unremitting  energy  from  half-past 
11  in  the  morning  until  nearly  8  in  the  evening,  but  were  repelled  with 
equal  success.  Most  fortunately  for  the  defenders,  their  supply  of  ammu- 
nition was  abundant.  Had  it  been  otherwise,  Hougomont  must  inevitably 
have  met  with  the  same  fate  as  La  Haye  Sainte;  Napoleon  would  then 
have  been  enabled  to  attack  the  Duke's  right  flank,  and  the  Allies  ^would 
most  probably  have  been  defeated,  or  rather  virtually  annihilated. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Hougomont  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of 
the   following  well- authenticated  anecdote.     Colonel   Halkett's    brigade, 


of  Waterloo.  BELLE  ALLIANCE.  13.  Route.     129 

consisting  of  raw  levies  of  troops,  most  of  whom  now  faced  an  enemy  for 
the  first  time,  were  exposed  to  a  galling  fire  from  Cambronne's  brigade, 
which  formed  the  extreme  left  of  the  enemy's  line.  Halkett  sent  his 
skirmishers  to  meet  the  vanguard  of  the  French,  somewhat  in  advance 
of  whom  Gen.  Cambronne  himself  rode.  Cambronne's  horse  having  been 
shot  under  him,  Halkett  immediately  perceived  that  this  was  an  admir- 
able opportunity  for  a  '  coup  de  main '  calculated  to  inspire  his  troops 
with  confidence.  He  therefore  galloped  up  alone  to  the  French  general, 
threatening  him  with  instantaneous  death  if  he  did  not  surrender.  Cam- 
bronne, taken  by  surprise,  presented  his  sword  and  surrendered  to  the 
gallant  colonel,  who  at  once  led  him  back  to  the  British  line.  Before 
reaching  it,  however,  Halkett's  horse  was  struck  by  a  bullet  and  fell. 
Whilst  struggling  to  disengage  himself,  he  perceived  to  his  extreme  morti- 
fication that  the  general  was  hastening  back  to  his  own  troops  !  By  dint 
of  great  etforts ,  however,  Halkett  got  his  horse  on  his  legs  again,  gal- 
loped after  the  general,  overtook  him,  and  led  him  back  in  triumph  to 
his  own  line. 

The  field-road  to  Belle  Alliance  from  the  gate  of  the  farm  skirts 
the  wall  to  the  left.  It  soon  becomes  narrower,  and  after  leading 
ahout  50  paces  to  the  right  passes  through  a  hedge,  traverses  a  field, 
and  passes  an  embankment.  After  a  walk  of  5  min.  a  good  path  is 
reached,  leading  to  the  high-road  in  12  min,  more.  Coster's  house 
lies  to  the  right.  In  a  straight  direction  the  road  leads  to  Planchenois 
(see  below).  Belle  Alliance  is  situated  on  the  left.  This  name  is 
applied  to  a  low  white  house  of  one  story  on  the  road-side,  now  a 
poor  tavern,  1  M.  to  the  E.  of  Hougomont. 

A  marble  slab  over  the  door  bears  the  inscription  :  '■Rencontre  des  gin- 
iraux  Wellington  et  Blucher  lors  de  la  memorable  bataille  du  18.  Juni  1815, 
se  saluant  mutuellement  vainqueurs\  The  statement,  however,  is  erroneous. 
It  is  well  ascertained  that  Bliicher  did  not  overtake  the  Duke  until  the 
latter  had  led  his  troops  as  far  as  La  Maison  du  Roi,  or  Maison  Rouge,  on 
the  road  to  Genappe,  about  2  M.  beyond  Belle  Alliance,  where  he  gave 
the  order  to  halt.  This  was  the  scene  of  the  well-known  anecdote  so 
often  related  of  the  Duke,  who  when  urged  not  to  expose  himself  unne- 
cessarily to  danger  from  the  fire  of  the  straggling  fugitives,  replied :  'Let 
them  fire  away.    The  victory  is  gained,  and  my  life  is  of  no  value  now  I' 

The  house  of  Belle  Alliance  was  occupied  by  the  French ,  and 
their  lines  were  formed  adjacent  to  it.  Napoleon's  post  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  battle  was  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  house, 
and  on  the  same  level. 

On  the  N.  side  of  Belle  Alliance  a  field-road  diverges  from  the 
high-road,  and  leads  to  Plancenoit,  or  Planchenois,  a  village  situ- 
ated 1  M.  to  the  S.E.,  which  the  traveller  who  desires  to  appreciate 
the  important  part  acted  by  the  Prussians  in  the  battle  should  not 
fail  to  visit.  To  the  left,  on  a  slight  eminence  near  the  village,  rises 
the  Prussian  Monument  (PL  m),  an  iron  obelisk  with  an  appropriate 
inscription  in  German.  It  was  injured  by  the  French  when  on  their 
way  to  the  siege  of  Antwerp  in  1832,   but  has  since  been  restored. 

The  battle  between  the  French  and  the  brave  Prussians  raged  with 
the  utmost  fury  at  and  around  Plancenoit  from  half-past  six  till  nearly 
nine  o'clock.  Nine  regiments  of  infantry,  a  regiment  of  hussars,  and  the 
cavalry  of  the  4th  Corps  d'Armee  commanded  by  Prince  William  of  Prussia 
were  engaged  in  the  action,  and  fiercely  contested  the  possession  of  the 
village.  The  churchyard  was  the  scene  of  the  most  sanguinary  struggles, 
in  which  vast  numbers  of  brave  soldiers  fell  on  both  sides.     The  village 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  9 


130     Route  13.  NIVELLES. 

was  captured  several  times  by  the  Prussians,  and  again  lost;  but  tbey 
finally  gained  possession  of  it  between  8  and  9  o'clock.  The  combatants 
of  both  armies  in  this  conflict  were  all  comparatively  fresh,  and  the  fury 
with  which  they  fought  was  intensified  by  the  bitter  hostility  of  the  two 
nations,  and  a  thirst  for  vengeance  on  the  part  of  the  Prussians  for  pre- 
vious reverses.  The  victory  on  this  part  of  the  field  was  therefore  achiev- 
ed towards  8  o'clock  ,  and  the  defeat  of  the  French  was  rendered  doubly 
disastrous  by  the  spirited  and  well-organised  pursuit  of  Gneisenau. 

The  French  retreat,  which  soon  became  a  disorderly  saiive  qui  peut^ 
followed  the  road  to  Genappe  (p.  182),  a  village  about  4  M.  to  the  S.  of 
Plancenoit.  Near  Genappe,  where  the  road  was  blocked  with  cannon 
and  waggons,  the  Prussians  captured  Napoleon's  travelling  carriage, 
wliich  the  emperor  had  probably  just  quitted  in  precipitate  haste,  as  it 
still  contained  his  hat  and  sword. 

Continuation  of  KAIL^VAY  Journey.  The  next  station  beyond 
Waterloo  is  (12  M.  from  Brussels^  Eraine  I'Alleud,  Flem.  Eigen- 
Brakel  (Hotel  du  Midi;  H.  de  I'Etoiie),  a  manufacturing  town  with 
6600  inhab.,  whence  the  mound  of  the  lion  fp.  126)  on  the  field  of 
Waterloo,  which  is  visible  to  the  left,  is  1 1/2  ^.  distant.  The  road  to 
it  leads  directly  N.  from  the  station.    Branch-line  to  Tatj^e,  seep.  178. 

151/2  M.  Lillois.  18  M.  Sawders,  a  suburb  ofNivelles,  is  the 
junction  of  the  Manage  and  Wavre  line  (p.  182). 

I8Y2M.  Nivelles  (Hotel  du  Mouton  Blanc),  Flem.  Nyvel,  on  the 
Thines,  a  manufacturing  town  with  10,000  inhab.,  owes  its  origin 
to  a  convent  founded  here  about  the  middle  of  the  7th  cent,  by  Ida, 
wife  of  Pepin  of  Landen.  The  Romanesque  church  of  the  convent, 
built  in  the  11th  cent.,  still  exists,  but  the  interior  suffered  de- 
facement in  the  18th  cent. ,  though  the  crypt  still  remains  purely 
Romanesque.  The  tower,  one  of  the  loftiest  in  Belgium,  was 
restored  in  1859,  after  a  fire,  with  little  success.  On  the  high- 
altar  is  the  beautiful  13th  cent,  reliquary  of  St.  Gertrude  (daughter 
of  Pepin),  to  whom  the  church  is  dedicated;  and  among  the  many 
interesting  objects  in  the  treasury  is  the  saint's  crystal  goblet  witli 
enamelled  foot.  The  st&tion  is  called  Nivelles- Est ,  and  lies  at  some 
distance  from  the  town  (Nivelles-Nord,  see  p.  182). 

The  Baulers-Fleurus-Chdtelineau  line  diverges  at  aSTivelles-Est :  19  M., 
in  I-IV4  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  35,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  20  c).    Fleurus,  see  p.  203. 

23  M.  Ohaix-Buzet ;  251/2  M.  Luttre ,  the  junction  of  a  line  to 
Jumet  (Charleroi,  Chatelineau)  and  to  Pjeton  (p.  181) ,  via  Tra- 
zegnies.  Our  line  here  uiiites  with  the  Ghent  and  Braine-le-Comte 
railway,  which  proceeds,  via  (29  M.)  Gosselies  and  (30  M.)  Roux,  to  — 

35  M.  Charleroi,  see  p.  183. 

14.    From  Brussels  to  Antwerp  via  Malines. 

271/2  M.  Railway  to  Malines  in  25-45  min.  (fares  1  fr.  60,  1  fr.  20, 
80  c.) ;  to  Antwerp  in  3/4-IV2  hr.  (fares  3  fr.  35 ,  2  fr.  50,  1  fr.  70  c).  Ex- 
press-fares one-fourth  higher. 

The  train  starts  from  the  Station  du  Nord.  Travellers  starting 
from  the  Station  du  Quartier  Leopold  change  carriages  at  (2  M.) 
Schaerbeek  (p.  195).  A  fertile  and  grassy  plain,  through  which 
the  Senne  winds,  is  traversed.  —  41/2  M.  Haeren. 


1-Ardievfchf 

£gUsrs: 

3.<fo  Gr.Bcgtdnnge 
^.Cadiedrale  'f:  Romhairt 

6.  St  Jem 
l.yetrrDame 
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MALINES.  14.  Route.     131 

674  M.  Vilvorde,  a  small  town  on  the  Senne,  one  of  tlie  most 
ancient  in  Brabant,  with  the  military  penitentiary. 

A  melancholy  interest  attaches  to  Vilvorde  as  the  scene  of  the  martyr- 
dom of  William  Ttndale  ,  the  zealous  English  Reformer  and  trans- 
lator of  the  Bible.  He  was  compelled  to  leave  England  on  account  of  his 
heretical  doctrines  in  1523,  and  the  same  year  he  completed  his  translation 
of  the  New  Testament  from  the  Greek.  He  then  began  to  publish  it  at 
Cologne,  but  was  soon  interrupted  by  bis  Romish  antagonists,  to  escape 
from  whom  he  fled  to  Worms,  where  the  publication  was  completed  in 
1525.  Copies  soon  found  their  way  to  England,  where  prohibitions  were 
issued  against  them,  in  consequence  of  which  most  of  them  were  burnt. 
'  They  have  done  no  other  thing  than  I  looked  for ',  observed  the  pious 
translator,  on  hearing  of  this;  'no  more  shall  they  do,  if  they  burn 
me  also!'  Notwithstanding  the  vehement  opposition  of  Archbp.  Warham, 
Card.  Wolsey,  and  Sir  Thomas  More  (who  vainly  strove  to  refute  the  new 
doctrine  in  a  work  of  7  vols.),  four  new  editions  rapidly  found  their  way 
to  England.  In  1529  Tyndale  began  to  publish  the  firstfour  books  of  the 
Old  Testament  at  Antwerp ,  where  he  now  acted  as  chaplain  to  the 
British  merchants  settled  in  that  city.  He  was  at  length  arrested  through 
the  treachery  of  a  spy,  and  sent  to  Vilvorde,  where  he  was  imprisoned 
for  two  years.  He  was  then  tried,  and  condemned  as  a  heretic.  On  6th 
Oct.,  1536,  he  was  chained  to  the  stake,  strangled,  and  finally  burnt  to 
ashes.  His  last  words  were:  •  Lord,  open  the  King  of  England's  eyes!' 
He  was  a  man  of  simple  and  winning  manners,  indefatigable  industry, 
and  fervent  piety.  His  New  Testament,  which  was  translated  indepen- 
dently of  his  illustrious  predecessor  WycklilTe  ,  and  his  still  more  cele- 
brated contemporary  Luther,  forms  the  basis  of  the  Authorised  Version.  It 
is  a  remarkable  fact ,  that  the  year  after  his  martyrdom  the  Bible  was 
published  throughout  England  by  royal  command,  and  appointed  to  be 
placed  in  every  church  for  the  use  of  the  people. 

We  catch  a  distant  view  here,  on  the  right,  of  the  village  of  Perck 
(3  M.  from  the  railway),  near  which  is  the  farm-house  of  Dry  Toren, 
once  the  country-seat  of  David  Teniers  the  Younger  (d.  1685 ;  buried 
in  the  church  of  Perck). 

Near  (8  M.)  Eppeghem,  to  the  E.,  but  scarcely  visible  from 
the  railway,  stands  the  old  chateau  of  Steen,  purchased  by  Rubens 
in  1635  as  a  summer-resort  for  93,000  florins.  —  10  M.  Weerde. 
The  huge  tower  of  the  cathedral  of  Malines  now  becomes  con- 
spicuous in  the  distance.     The  train  crosses  the  Louvain  Canal. 

13  M.  Malines.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  de  la  Station,  at  the  station; 
Hotel  de  la  Coupe,  near  the  cathedral ;  Hotel  Buda,  opposite  the  cathedral 
tower,  R.,  L.,  Sc  A.  21/2-3,  B.  1,  I).  21/2  fr. ;  Hotel  la  Codr  de  Befker,  Rue 
de  Betfer  34,  near  the  Grande  Place;  Cheval  dOr,  Rue  des  Beguines  2, 
near  the  cathedral.  —  Restaurant  at  the  station. 

A  visit  to  the  Cathedral  and  the  paintings  by  Rubens  in  the  churches 
of  St.  Jean  and  Notre  Dame  may  be  accomplished  in  3  hrs. 

The  ancient  town  of  Malines.,  Flem.  Mechelen  (49,000  inhab.), 
situated  on  the  tidal  river  Dyle ,  which  flows  through  the  town  in 
numerous  arms  and  is  crossed  by  35  bridges,  is  the  seat  of  a  cardinal- 
archbishop,  the  primate  of  Belgium.  Notwithstanding  its  broad  and 
regular  streets,  handsome  squares,  and  fine  buildings,  it  is  a  dull  place, 
and  totally  destitute  of  the  brisk  traffic  which  enlivens  most  of  the 
principal  Belgian  towns.  The  quietness  of  the  town  forms  a  strong 
contrast  to  the  busy  scene  at  the  station,  which  possesses  extensive 
railway-workshops  and  is  the  focus  of  several  of  the  most  important 

9* 


132     Route  14.  MALINES.  From  Brussels 

railways  in  Belgium  (Liege -Ostend,  Antwerp -Brussels,  Malines- 
Saint-Nicolas).  The  unenterprising  character  of  the  inhabitants  is 
more  tersely  than  politely  described  in  the  monkish  lines  mentioned 
in  the  Introduction  (p.  xx). 

In  order  to  reach  the  town,  which  is  more  than  1/4  M.  from  the 
station  ,  we  follow  the  broad  Rue  Conscience  bearing  to  the  right, 
traverse  the  Place  d'Egmont  and  cross  the  Dyle.  Beside  the  bridge, 
to  the  right,  is  the  Athence ,  with  a  fine  garden  (PI.  C,  4.  5;  adm. 
1/2  fr-)'  a<^orned  with  a  statue  of  Dodonaeus  ,  the  botanist,  born  at 
Malines  in  1517.  We  proceed  in  the  same  direction  through  the 
Bruulstraat ,  leading  to  the  Grande  Place  (PI.  C ,  3) ,  where  a 
poor  statue  (PI.  20)  by  Tuerlinckx  of  Malines  was  erected  in  1849 
to  Margaret  of  Austria  (d.  1530),  daughter  of  Maximilian  I.  and 
Mary  of  Burgundy  (p.  xvii),  celebrated  as  regent  of  the  Netherlands 
and  instructress  of  Charles  V.  The  circle  described  on  the  ground 
round  the  monument  indicates  the  size  of  the  cathedral  clock  (see 
below).  The  Place  still  boasts  of  several  mediaeval  buildings.  The 
old  Cloth  Hall  (PI.  10),  begun  in  1340,  but  left  uncompleted ,  with 
a  superstructure  of  the  16th  cent.,  is  now  used  as  the  Guard  House. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  18),  between  the  Grande  Place  and 
the  cathedral,  was  entirely  remodelled  during  the  last  century. 
Opposite  this  building,  and  standing  a  little  way  back  from  the 
Place,  is  an  old  late-Gothic  building  called  the  ^Schepenen-Huis' 
(or  house  of  the  bailiffs),  with  the  inscription  ^Musee'  (PI.  21; 
C,  3)  ,  containing  a  collection  of  civic  antiquities,  reminiscences  of 
Margaret  of  Austria,  a  few  ancient  and  modern  pictures  (including 
a  small  Crucifixion  by  Rubens),  etc.  (The  concierge  lives  in  the 
market-place.  No.  2,  in  the  house  next  door  to  the  Hotel  de  Ville ; 
fee  1/2  ft.). 

The  *Cathedral  of  St.  Rombold  (^St.  Rombaut,  PI.  4 ;  closed 
from  12  to  2.30,  and  after  5.30  p.m.),  begun  at  the  end  of  the  12th 
cent.,  completed  in  1312,  but  to  a  great  extent  rebuilt,  after  a 
fire,  in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries,  is  a  cruciform  Gothic  church 
with  a  richly- decorated  choir  and  a  huge  unfinished  W.  tower 
(324  ft.  in  height;  projected  height  460  ft.).  The  face  of  the  clock 
on  the  tower  is  49  ft.  in  diameter.  The  church  was  almost  entirely 
erected  with  money  paid  by  the  pilgrims  who  flocked  hither  in  the 
14th  and  15th  centuries  to  obtain  the  indulgences  issued  by  Pope 
Nicholas  V.  On  the  increase  of  the  hierarchy  of  the  Netherlands 
in  1559  (p.  xvii),  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Rombold  was  raised  by  Pope 
Paul  IV.  to  the  dignity  of  being  the  archiepiscopal  metropolitan 
church.  The  first  archbishop  was  Antoine  Perenot  de  Granvella, 
the  hated  minister  of  Margaret  of  Parma ,  who  was  shortly  after- 
wards created  a  cardinal.  The  church  is  now  undergoing  a  thorough 
restoration ;  the  interior  is  almost  completed. 

The  Interior  of  the  church  (length  306  ft.,  nave  89  ft.  high)  is 
imposing,  and  worthy  of  its  archiepiscopal  dignity.  It  is  adorned  by 


to  Antwerp.  MALINES.  U.  Route.     133 

several  admirable  pictures,  the  finest  of  which  is  an  *Altarpiece  by 
Van  Dyck,  representing  the  Crucifixion,  in  the  S.  transept,  painted 
in  1627,  and  successfully  cleaned  in  1848  (covered).  This  is  one  of 
the  finest  of  the  masters  works ,  and  is  worthy  of  the  most  careful 
inspection.  The  composition  is  extensive  and  skilfully  arranged; 
the  profound  grief  and  resignation  depicted  in  the  countenance  of 
the  Virgin  are  particularly  well  expressed.  —  In  the  N.  (1.)  tran- 
sept: Erasmus  Quellin.  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds.  —  In  the  N. 
aisle,  1st  chapel  on  the  left  (reckoned  from  the  chief  entrance"), 
Wouters,  Last  Supper ;  opposite  is  a  monument  in  marble  to  Arch- 
bishop Mean  (d.  1831),  who  is  represented  kneeling  before  the 
Angel  of  Death,  executed  by  Jehotte,  a  sculptor  of  Liege.  —  In  the 
S.  aisle :  twenty-five  scenes  from  the  history  of  St.  Rombold,  ex- 
tending from  his  appointment  to  the  office  of  bishop  down  to  his 
martyrdom  and  the  miracles  wrought  by  his  relics  (Flemish  school  of 
the  15th  cent.,  restored  in  1857).  —  The  Pulpit^  carved  in  wood, 
like  those  in  the  principal  Belgian  churches ,  by  Boeckstuyns  of 
Malines',  represents  the  Conversion  of  St.  Paul.  Above,  St.  John 
and  the  women  .at  the  foot  of  the  Cross ;  at  the  side ,  Adam  and 
Eve  and  the  serpent.  By  the  pillars  are  statues  of  the  Apostles 
(17th  cent.).  Elaborately  carved  organ-choir.  The  large  modern 
stained-glass  windows  in  the  transept  were  executed  to  commemo- 
rate the  promulgation  of  the  new  dogma  of  the  immaculate  concep- 
tion of  the  Virgin  (1854),  by  J.  F.  and  L.  PLuys  of  Malines.  —  The' 
Choir  contains  handsome  modern  stained  glass  and  carved  stalls  in 
the  Gothic  style.  To  the  left  in  the  retro-choir,  near  the  N.  portal, 
high  up,  is  a  Circumcision  by  M.  Coxie,  1587.  Farther  on  are  a 
number  of  large  pictures ,  chiefly  by  Herreyns  and  other  painters 
of  the  early  part  of  the  present  century,  representing  scenes  from 
the  life  of  St.  Rombold,  In  the  second  chapel  to  the  left  the  arms 
of  the  knights  of  the  Golden  Fleece,  who  held  a  chapter  here  in 
1491.  The  first  chapel  to  the  riglit  of  the  high-altar  contains  the  altar 
of  St.  Engelbert,  Bishop  of  Cologne,  with  a  chased  brazen  ante- 
pendium  or  frontal,  executed  from  Minguay's  designs  by  L.  van 
Rysivy'ck  of  Antwerp  (1875).  The  choir  also  contains  several  monu- 
ments of  bishops  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  modern  stained-glass  win- 
dows with  full-length  figures  of  saints. 

The  Archiepiscopal  Palace  (PI.  1 ;  C,  2),  picturesquely  situated 
a  little  to  the  N.,  and  dating  from  the  end  of  the  l(3th  cent.,  has 
been  allowed  to  fall  into  a  state  of  disrepair. 

St.  Jean  (PI.  6 ;  C,  3),  near  the  Cathedral ,  is  an  insignificant 
church,  but  contains  an  interesting  picture  by  Bw^en?,  a*High-altar- 
piece  with  wings,  a  large  and  fine  composition,  one  of  the  best  of  the 
painter's  ceremonial  works.  On  the  inside  of  the  wings:  Behead- 
ing of  John  the  Baptist,  and  Martyrdom  of  St.  John  in  a  cauldron 
of  boiling  oil.  Outside:  Baptism  of  Christ,  and  St.  John  in  the 
island  of  Patmos,  writing  the  Apocalypse.  The  two  latter  are  in  the 


134     Route  14.  MALINES.  From  Brussels 

best  style  of  the  master,  -who  received  1800  florins  for  them.  Below 
is  a  small  Crucifixion ,  probably  also  by  Rubens.  To  the  left  in 
the  choir  is  Christ  on  the  Cross ,  by  Ch.  Wouters,  18G0.  In  the 
chapel  on  the  left,  Christ  and  the  disciples  at  Emmaus ,  by  Iler- 
reyns.  The  pulpit  in  carved  wood ,  by  Verhaeghen,  represents  the 
Good  Shepherd.  The  confessionals,  the  carved  wood  on  the  organ, 
and  several  other  pieces  of  carving  are  by  the  same  sculptor.  The 
sacristan  (V2"l  f"""-)  lives  in  the  Klapgat,  adjacent  to  the  church. 

The  Mont  de  Piete^  Rue  des  Vaches  67  and  Rue  St.  Jean  2 
(PI.  C,  B,  2,  3),  formerly  the  house  of  Canon  Buysleden,  is  an 
interesting  Gothic  building  of  the  IGth  cent. ,  with  gables ,  fine 
arcades,  and  a  tower  of  brick  and  limestone  (1507),  restored  in  1875. 

At  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  town  are  situated  the  church  of 
St.  Catharine  (PI.  5;  C,  2)  and  that  of  the  Grand  Beguinage  (PI.  3; 
B,  2),  containing  pictures  by  L.  Franchoys ,  Moreels,  Do  Crayer, 
Th.  Boeyermans,  E.  Quellin,  and  others;  the  latter  is  also  embel- 
lished with  sculptures  by  L.  Fayd'herbe  and  Duquesnoy.  —  The 
church  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  (PI.  9;  D,  3)  contains  pictures  by 
Boeyermans,  Eyckens,  Coxie,  and  others,  and  sculptures  by  Ver- 
bruggen  (pulpit)  and  J.  Geefs  (apostles). 

The  *Tribunal(P1.25  ;  D,  3,  4),  or  court  of  justice,  consists  of 
a  picturesque  assemblage  of  buildings,  enclosing  several  courts,  and 
was  formerly  the  palace  of  Margaret  of  Austria.  The  older  portions 
were  erected  by  Eombout  Keldermans  in  the  late-Gothic  stylo.  The 
more  modern  portion,  erected  by  Keldermans  about  1617,  along 
with  the  French  artist  Guyot  de  Beaugrant  (p.  25),  is  the  earliest 
example  of  tlie  Renaissance  in  I'elgium.  The  building  was  skil- 
fully restored  a  few  years  ago,  by  Blomme  of  Antwerp,  and  con- 
tains some  fine  chimney-pieces  and  other  interesting  works  of  art. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  station  we  may  visit  the  church  of  Notre 
Dame  (PI.  7;  B,  4),  a  late-Gothic  building  of  the  16th  cent., 
recently  restored.  A  chapel  behind  the  high-altar  contains  Rubens^ 
*Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes ,  a  richly-coloured  picture ,  with 
wings,  painted  in  1618  for  the  Guild  of  Fishers,  from  whom  the 
master  received  1600  florins  for  the  work  (about  90L).  In  the  3rd 
chapel  of  the  retro-choir  is  the  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony  by  M. 
Coxie;  high-altarpiece,  a  Last  Supper  by  E.  Quellin;  pulpit  and 
statues  by  G.  Kerricx.  The  sacristan  will  be  found  at  No.  58 
Milsenstraat,  the  street  opposite  the  chief  portal.  —  The  neigh- 
bouring double -towered  Porte  de  Bruxelles  ( 'Oversto  Poort'; 
PI.  A,  4)  is  the  solitary  relic  of  the  ancient  fortifications. 

On  the  Quai  au  Sel  (PI.  B,  4),  and  particularly  in  or  near  the 
Rue  Serment  du  Fer,  are  several  interesting  houses  of  the  IGth 
century.  Among  the  most  interesting  of  these  are  the  Salm  Inn, 
with  a  Renaissance  facade  (1530-34;  see  p.  xliii),  embellished 
with  columns  and  arches,  and  a  timber  house  near  it  (No.  20), 
with  exquisite  details  in  the  Franco-Flemish  style  and  also  dating 


to  Antwerp.  MALIXES.  14.  Route.    135 

from  the  16th  century.  Between  these  are  two  other  interesting 
old  timher-houses.  Throughout  the  whole  town  there  still  linger 
many  picturesque  relics  of  mediaeval  architecture. 

The  church  of  Notre  Dame  d' Hansicyck  (PI.  8 ;  C,  5)  contains 
two  large  reliefs  by  L.  Fayd'herbe  and  a  pulpit  by  Yerhaeghen. 

Mechlin  lace .  which  once  enjoyed  a  high  reputation,  is  still 
manufactured  here,  but  cannot  compete  with  that  of  Brussels. 

From  MALI^•Es  to  Heyst-op -den  -  Berg  and  to  Iteghem,  ll'/z  and 
14  M.,  a  steam-tramwav  plies  in  I1/2  and  lV2-3'/2  brs.  (fares  1  fr.  35,  95  c. 
and  1  fr.  63,  1  fr.  15  c." 

From  Malines  to  Lodvain,  I5Y2M.,  railway  in  25-40  min.  (fares  1  fr.  70, 

1  fr.  35,90  c.).  —  The  church  of  (Di/s^I.)  Boortmeevbeek  contains  an  altar- 
piece  by  Teniers  the  Younger.  Then  O'h  ^^•)  Haecht  and  (81/2  M.)  Wes- 
pelaar,  with  a  conntry-seat  and  park  mentioned  by  Delille  (b.  1788).  121/2  M. 

Wi/gmal.  The  line  crosses  the  Di/le ,  skirts  the  Antwerp-Louvain  Canal 
(made  in  1750),  and  reaches  Louvain  (p.  197). 

From  Malixes  to  Guest,  85  M.,  railway  in  I-I3/4  hr.  (fares  4  fr.  45, 
3  fr.  25,  2  fr.  20  c).     The  line  crosses  the  Louvain  Canal  and  the  Senile. 

2  M.  Hombeeck;  5V2  M.  Capelle ;  8  M.  Londerzeel .,  the  junction  of  the 
Antwerp  and  Alost  line  (p.  11).  Beyond  (11  M.)  JJalderen,  we  quit  Bra- 
bant ;and  enter  Flanders.  I2V2  M.  Buggenhout;  15  M.  Baesrode.  17  M. 
Dendermonde,  and  thence  to  (38  M.)  Ghent,  see  R.  10. 

From  SIalises  to  St.  Nicolas  and  Tekneuzen  ,  42  M. ,  railway  in 
2V2  hrs.  (fares  5  fr.  15,  3  fr.  70,  2  fr.  55  c).  2  M.  Hombeeck;  6  M.  Thihelt; 
8  M.  Willebroek .  on  a  canal  connecting  the  Senne  with  the  Rnpel,  the 
junction  of  the  Antwerp  and  Alost  line  (p.  11);  11  M.  Puers  (branch  to 
Dendermonde,  p.  62) ;  14  M.  Bornhem.  The  train  traverses  a  pleasant  district, 
and  crosses  the  broad  Schelde,  commanding  a  view  of  its  picturesque 
wooded  banks.  To  the  left,  on  the  left  bank,  is  (16  M.).  Tamise,  a  manu- 
facturing town  with  9400  inhabitants.  The  church  contains  some  inter- 
esting works  of  art.  21  M.  St.  Nicolas  ,  the  junction  for  Ghent  and  Ant- 
werp (p.  63);  25  31.  St.  Gilles;  27  M.  La  Clinge,  with  the  Belgian  custom- 
house. —  291/2  M.  Hulst,  the  Dutch  frontier-station,  possesses  an  interesting 
Gothic  church  of  the  loth  cent.;  the  Landshuis  contains  a  painting  by 
Jordaens  and  the  Hotel  de  ^'ille  one  by  Corn,  de  Vos.  —  35  M.  Axel; 
39  M.  Slu>jskill;  42  M.    Terneuzen  (see  p.  10). 

Soon  after  quitting  Malines,  the  train  crosses  the  Nethe  and 
reaches  (18  M.l  Duffel.  To  the  right  rises  the  old  Gothic  chateau 
of  Ter-Eist.     Then  (^201/2  >!•}  stat.'  Contich. 

From  Coktich  to  Tcrnhout,  26V'2  M.,  branch-railway  in  I'^hr.  —  Sta- 
tions: Lierre  (p.  157),  junction  for  Antwerp,  Diest ,  and  Hasselt  (p.  176); 
Nylen.,  Bouwel.,  Herenthals,  the  junction  for  Roermond  (p.  178)  and  Louvain 
(p.  195);  Lichtaert.  Tfiielen ,  and  lastly  Tumhout,  the  chief  town  of  the 
district,  with  16,iOO  inhab. ,  a  prosperous  place,  with  cloth  and  other 
factories,  and  a  leech -breeding  establishment.  The  old  Chateau  of  the 
Dukes  of  Brabant  now  serves  as  a  court  of  justice  and  a  prison.  In  the 
church  of  Oud-Turnfiout  is  a  Madonna  and  saints  by  De  Crayer.  Steam- 
tramway  to  Antwerp,  see  p.  137;  to  Hoogstraten,  p.  172.  —  Beyond  Turn- 
hout  the  line  crosses  the  Dutch  frontier   to  Tilburg  (see  p.  375). 

Another  branch-line  runs  from  Contich  to  Boom,  on  the  line  from 
Alost  to  Antwerp  (p.  11). 

From  (24  m.)  Oude-God  (Vieux-Dieu)  a  branch-line  diverges  to 
Hoboken  (p.  11).  AVe  now  pass  through  the  new  outworks  around 
Antwerp.  26 '/o  M.  Berchem.  the  headquarters  of  the  French  during 
the  siege  of  the  citadel  in  1832. 

271/2  M.  Antwerp,  see  p.  136. 


130 


15.    Antwerp. 


Railway  Stations.  The  Principal  Station  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  for  Malines 
(Brussels,  Louvain,  etc.),  Dendermonde-Ghent ,  Hasselt-Maastricht,  Roer- 
monde-Gladbach  ,  Turnhout- Tilburg,  Roosendaal,  Flushing,  Rotterdam, 
and  Ghent  (state-line,  preferable  to  the  Waesland  line),  is  near  the  Zoo- 
logical Garden  (a  new  station  in  the  Place  de  la  Commune  is  projected). 

—  The  South  Station  (PI.  B,  6,  7)  is  used  only  by  the  trains  of  the  Ant- 
werp-Alost  (p.  11)  and  the  Lierre-Turnhout  (p.  135)  lines.  —  The  station  for 
the  direct  trains  to  Ghent  through  the  Waesland  (R.  10)  is  at  the  Quai 
St.  Michel  (PI.  A,  5),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Schelde;  tickets  taken  here 
include  the  ferry  across  the  river. 

Hotels.  Grand  Hotel  (PI.  C,  4),  Rue  Ge'rard,  with  lift;  *  Grand 
Laboureuu  (PI.  d;  C,  4),  Place  de  Meir  26;  charges  at  these  about  the 
same:  R.  21/2-8,  L.  3/^,  A.  1,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  2V2-3V2,  D.  4-5,  pens,  from  10, 
omn.  3/4-1  fr. ;  St.  Antoike  (PI.  a;  B,4),  Place  Verte  40;  Hotel  de  l"Europe 
(PI.  b;  B,  4),  Place  Verte  38;  *Hotel  de  la  Paix  (PI.  c;  B,  4),  Rue  des 
Menuisiers  9,  narrow  street,  commercial. —  Second  class:  *Cocrrier  (PI.  h; 
B,  4),  Rempart  du  Lombard  52,  R.  &  L.  2V2-4,  A.  1/2,  B.  IV4,  dej.  21/2, 
D.  3,  pens.  7-10,  omn.  1  fr. ;  Hotel  des  Flandres  (PI.  e;  B,  4),  Place 
Verte  ^;  Grand  Mxroir  (PI.  f;  B,  4),  Vieux  Marche  au  Ble  5ti  &  58,  R., 
L.,  &  A.  3,  B.  Vji,  dej.  2,  D.  3,  pens.  8  fr.,  well  spoken  of.  —  Hotel  du 
Commerce  (PI.  g;  C,  3),  Rue  de  la  Bourse  10,  R.,  L.,  <fc  A.  2i/2-3,  B.  1, 
dej.  2,  1).  2V2 ,  pens.  7  fr. ;  Grande  Fontaine,  Courte  Rue  des  Claires  6 
(PI.  C,  3),  near  the  Exchange,  unpretending,  good  German  cuisine;  Hotel 
DU  NoRD,  Grande  Place  22;  Fleor  d"Or,  Ruelle  des  Moines  1,  near  the 
Place  Verte,  unpretending.  —  On  the  Schelde:  Hotel  du  Rhin,  (^uai  Van 
Dyck  7,  with  restaurant,  fine  view  of  the  river,  R.,  L.,  A:  A.  2V2-6,  B.  1, 
dej.  2V2,  D.  3,  pens.  7-121/2,  omn.  1  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  d'Angle- 
TERRE,  Quai  Van  Dyck  12  (PI.  B,  3,  4).  In  the  vicinity:  Hotel  de  Hol- 
lande  (PI.  1 ;  B,  4),  Rue  de  TEtuve  2.  —  Near  the  Principal  Station :  Pschorr 
(Avenue  De  Keyzer  7),  Des  Trois  Suisses  (Rue  Anneessens  30),  and  several 
small  hotels,  none  of  which  can  be  recommended. 

Restaurants.  "Bertrand .,  Place  de  Meir  11,  D.  4  fr.  and  upwards; 
Grande  Taierne  Pot/ale,  Place  de  Meir  25,  D.  4  fr, ;  "Rocher  de  Cancale^ 
Rue  des  Dou/e  Mois  19,   adjoining   the  Exchange  and   the  Place  de  Meir. 

—  Taierne  Crets,  Rue  Nationale  2;  Hdfel  de  Londres  and  Taverne  St.  Jean, 
Avenue  De  Keyzer  42  and  21 ;  Cheial  de  Bronze,  Marche  aux  Oeufs  31 ;  Wolf 
(Rhine  wine),  Rempart  Catherine  74;  Aeckerlin.,  Place  de  Meir  13;  Burton 
Tavern,  Marche  au  Lin  2  ;  "Meutce  Loodshuis,  (ianal  St.  Pierre  16  (oysters 
and  fish).  —  Cafes.  Cafi  de  VEmpereur ,  Place  de  Meir  19;  /S'w?*se,  Place 
Verte  2;  Grand  Comploir  de  la  Bourse,  corner  of  the  Longue  Rue  Xeuve 
and  the  Rue  de  la  Bourse.  On  each  of  the  two  Promenoirs  (PI.  B.,  3,  4; 
p.  170)  is  a  Ca/tS,  with  fine  view  of  the  Schelde.  —  Confectioner:  Patis- 
serie Meurisse,  Marche  aux  Oeufs  50.  —  Beer.  Taverne  Alsacienne,  Place 
Verte  3 ;  Ceniral-Bierhalle,  Courte  Rue  Neuve  46,  with  a  garden  ;  Salvator- 
Keller,  Vieux  Marche  au  Ble  26;  Flora,  Rue  Anneessens  26;  Pschorr,  see 
above;  Des  Trois  Suisses,  see  above;  also  at  the  cafes  (30-35  c.  per  glass). 

Baths.  Bain  Royal,  Rue  Reynders  37,  near  the  Place  Verte ;  Bains  St. 
Pierre,  Rue  Van  Noort  12,  near  the  Park.  Warm  and  cold  baths  may  also 
be  obtained  in  the  best  hotels.  —  Swimming  Bath  (PI.  B,  7),  at  the  corner 
of  the  Rue  de  Bruxelles  and  the  Rue  Brederode,  open  from  April  15th 
to  October  15th  (for  ladies  on  Monday  and  Friday  before  12,  and  on 
Wednesday  before  2  o'clock). 

Post  Office,  Place  Verte,  S.  side  (PI.  B,  4);  several  branch-offices. — 
Telegraph    Offices   at   the   railway-station   (open   at  night),  exchange,    etc. 

—  Public  Telephones  in  the  waiting-rooms  of  the  tramways  and  in  several 
restaurants  (use  for  5  min.,  25  c.  ;  communication  with  Brussels,  1  fr.). 

Cabs  are  stationed  in  the  Place  Verte,  the  Place  de  Meir,  etc.  Per  drive 
(la  course)  within  the  8  municipal  districts  (with  the  exception  of  the 
Digue,  a  part  of  the  seventh  district),  1-2  pers.  1  fr.,  3-4  pers.  1  fr.  50  c.; 


lm~ 


(T^?  \^'''  (^=^--  V^ 
'k-.      . 


ANVERS 


ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    137 

between  10  p.m.  and  6  a.m. ,  2  fr.  or  2  fr.  50  c. ;  within  the  new  forti- 
fications, i-4  pers.  1  fr.  50  or  2  fr.  50  c.  —  Open  Vehicles,  a  degree  better, 
within  the  town  1-4  pers.  1  fr.  50  or  2fr.  50  c.;  within  the  fortifications,  2 
or  3  fr.  —  By  time  (a  Iheure),  first  hour  1-4  pers.,  1  fr.  50  or  2  fr.  50  c., 
each  additional  V2  It.  75  c.  or  1  fr.  25  c.;  within  the  new  fortifications 
2  fr.  or  3  fr.,  each  additional  1  2  hr.  1  fr.  or  1  fr.  50  c. ;  open  cabs  2  fr.  50 
3fr.,  and  1  fr.  or  1  fr.  50  c.  ;  within  the  fortifications  2  fr.  50  or  3  fr.,  and 
1  fr.  or  1  fr.  50.  —  Each  trunk  20  c.  —  Two-horse  vehicles  one-half  more. 
Tramways  (comp.  the  Plan ;  fares  10-25  c). 

1.  From  the  m^arf  (Quai  van  Dyck  ;  PI.  B,  8).  skirting  the  Place  Verte 
and  following  the  Place  de  Meir,  to  the  Principal  Station  (PI.  D,  3,  4), 
and  then  bv  the  Boulevard  Leopold  to  the  Druhoek  (Trois  Coins),  near 
the  Pepiniere  (PI.  D,  6). 

2.  From  the  Harbour  (Entrepot  Royal;  PI.  C,  2)  through  the  Avenues 
du  Commerce,  des  Arts,  de  Tlndustrie,  and  du  Sud.  —  A  branch-line 
diverges  from  the  Avenue  de  I' Industrie  to  the  ferry  for  the  Waesland  /Station 
(PI.  A,  5). 

3.  From  the  Place  St.  Paul  (PI.  B,  3)  through  the  Canal  des  Re'coUets, 
Rue  des  Tanneurs.  Rue  de  THopital,  and  Chaussee  de  Malines  to  tho 
Porte  de  Malines  (PI.  E,  7). 

4.  -Tramway  du  Sud  d'Anver.s'  from  the  Place  Verte  (PI.  B,  4)  through 
the  Rue  des  Peignes,  the  Rue  Gerard,  the  Avenue  du  Sud,  and  the  Rue  3Ion- 
tigny  to  Kiel  and  Hohoken  (p.  11). 

5.  From  the  Place  du  Pe'iple  (PI.  B,  5)  via  the  Rue  Nationale  to  the 
Rue  des  Peignes. 

6.  From  the  Rue  Kipdorp  (PI.  B,  C,3)  to  the  Porte  de  Turnhout  (PI.  F,  3). 

7.  From  the  Place  de  Meir  (PI.  C,  4)  through  the  Rue  des  Tanneurs, 
Rue  Leopold,  and  the  LongueRue  d'Argile  to  the  end  of  the  latter  (PI.  E,5). 

8.  -Tramway  du  Isovd.  d'Anvers'  from  the  Rue  Klapdorp  (PI.  B.  3)  by 
the  Marche  aux  Chevaux  and  the  Rue  Viaduc  (PI.  D,  1)  to  Merxem. 

9.  -Tramway  31aritime''  from  the  S.  Harbour  along  the  bank  of  the 
Schclde  to  the  N.  harbour,  via  the  Rue  des  Olages  (PI.  A,  6),  Quai  Fla- 
mand,  Quai  St.  Michel,  Quai  Plantin,  Quai  Van  Dyck,  Quai  Jordaens,  Canal 
des  Brasseurs,  Place  de  TEntreput,  Avenue  du  Commerce,  Rue  Vondel. 
and  Rue  Basse  to  the  Rue  Pothoek  (PI.  E,  2). 

10.  Steam  Tramway  from  Zurenborg  station  (PI.  F,  5)  to  Turnhout  (p.  135) 
and  Hoogstraten  (p.  ii2j.  The  station  at  Zurenborg  may  be  conveniently 
reached  by  the  tramway-line  Xo.  6,  and  the  Porte  de  Turnhout,  where  the 
steam-tramway  stops,  by  the  line  Ko.  5. 

11.  Steam  Tramway  from  Klapdorp  station  (PI.  B ,  3)  via  Merxem, 
Santvliet,  and  Lillo,  to  Bergen-op-Zoom  (p.  246). 

12.  Steam  Tramway  from  Klapdorp  station  (PI.  B,  3)  via  Merxem  to 
Brasschaet  (p.  172)  and  Schooten. 

Omnibus  from  the  station  of  the  Waesland  line  (PI.  A,  5)  via  the  Rue 
Haute,  Grand'  Place,  Place  de  la  Commune,  the  Principal  Station,  Zoo- 
logical Garden,  Rue  Ommeganck,  and  Rue  de  la  Province  to  Zurenborg 
station  (PI.  F,  5). 

Steamboats.  To  and  from  London:  vessels  of  the  Gen.  Steam  Nav. 
Co.  (fares  IG.'.,  11.?.)  2-3  times,  and  the  Baron  Osy  (fares  20s.,  12s.)  once 
weekly  ;  average  passage  18  hrs.  —  To  Hancic'h  by  the  vessels  of  the 
Great  Eastern  Railway.  Co.  six  times  weekly  in  11-13  hrs.,  thence  by 
railway  to  London  in  l^/^  hrs.  (fares  to  London  265. ,  I5s.).  —  To 
Hull  twice  weekly  in  22  hrs.  (fares  15s.,  10s.).  —  To  Glasgow  once 
weekly  (fares  25«. ,  los.).  —  To  Goole  twice  weeklv  in  24  hrs.  (fare 
155.).  —  To  Grimsby  every  Wed.  and  Sat.  in  30  hrs."  (fare  Los.).  —  To 
Newcastle  once  weekly  in  30  hrs.  (fares  22s.  Qd.,  lis.  6rf.).  —  To  Leith 
once  weekly  in  48  hrs.  (fare  4.5s.).  —  To  Hamburg  once  weekly  in  35  hrs. 
(fares  40  fr.,  35  fr.).  —  To  Dublin  and  Belfast  once  a  fortnight  (fare  15s.), 
—  To  Liverpool  once  weekly.  —  To  Rotterdam,  see  p.  173.  —  Small  steamers 
ply  about  every  i/i  hr.  in  summer  from  the  Grand  Bassin  (next  the  3Iaison 
Hanseatique,  PL  B.  2;  p.  171)  through  the  Bassins  du  Kattendyk,  Africa, 
and  America  (35  c.  ;  interesting  trip).  —  A  pleasant  steamboat  trip  on  the 


138   Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Theatres. 

Schelde  may  be  made  to  Rupelmonde ,  Boom  (railway  also  to  this  point, 
10  M. ;  comp.  p.  135),  and  Temsclte,  starting  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
IJuai  Van  Dyck  (PI.  B,  3);  return-fare  IV2  or  1  fr. 

Theatres.  T/itdtre  Royal  (PI.  C,  4;  p.  153),  performances  in  French, 
four  times  a  week  in  winter.  —  Flemish  Theatre^  or  Schovicburg  (PI.  C,  3; 
p.  152),  performances  in  Flemish.  —  Theatre  des  VariHis  (PI.  C,  5),  per- 
formances in  French,  German,  and  Flemish.  —  The  Scala,  Rue  Annees- 
sens  28,  and  the  Palais  Indien,  Avenue  De  Keyzer  3,   are  cafes  chantants. 

Music.  In  summer,  if  the  weather  is  favourable,  bands  perform  in  the 
Park  (p.  168)  on  Sunday  at  4  and  on  Tuesday  at  8  p.m.;  in  the  Pipinitre 
(p.  169)  on  Monday  and  Friday,  8-10  p.m.  -,  in  the  Place  Yerte  (p.  141)  on 
Wednesday  and  Saturday,  8-10  p.m.;  and  in  the  Place  St.  Jean  (PI.  C,  2) 
on  Monday  and  Thursday,  8-10  p.m. 

Panorama.  Battle  of  Woerlh,  by  Alfred  Cluysenaar,  in  the  Zoological 
Garden  (PI.  D,  4),  entrance  on  Sun.  by  the  Rue  de  la  Charrue.  Adm. 
on   Sun.  50  c,  on  Mon.  1  fr.,  other  days  2  fr. 

British  Consul,  G.  K.  Perry,  Esq.,'  Consul  General.  —  ITnited  States 
Consul,  John  II.  Steuart  Esq.;  deputy-consul,  F.  von  Wrede,  Esq. 

English  Church  in  the  Rue  des  Tanneurs ;  services  at  11  and  7. 

Shops.  Booksellers.  M.  Kornicker,  Place  de  Meir87;  0.  Forst,  Place 
de  Meir  U9;  Bolfink  <i-  Ackermann,  Place  Verte  20.  —  Photogkaphs.  0.  Forst, 
see  above;  Zazzarini  A  Co.,  Marche  aux  Souliers  37;  Ed.  van  Mol,  Marche 
aux  Souliers  17;  Thirion,  Place  Verte  17,  adjoining  the  cathedral.  —  Lace. 
J.  Diegerick,  Place  Verte  6. 

Principal  Attractions:  ^'Cathedral  (p.  141) ,  *  Museum  (p.  156),  Hotel 
de  Ville  (p.  146),  St.  Jacques  (p.  150),  *Musee  Plantin  (p.  154),  Docks 
(p.  171),  Zoological  Garden  (p.  169). 

Antwerp,  French  Anvers^  Spanish  Amberes,  with  260,429  in- 
habitants (^1889 ;  suburb  of  Borgerhout  28,731,  Berchem  11.575), 
one  of  the  greatest  seaports  of  Europe,  serving  as  an  outlet  for 
the  commerce  of  Germany  as  well  as  of  Belgium ,  was  once  the 
capital  of  a  margraviate,  belonging  to  the  Duchy  of  Brabant,  and 
was  founded  as  early  as  the  7  th  century.  In  837  the  town  was 
destroyed  by  the  Northmen.  The  most  celebrated  margrave  of 
Antwerp  was  Godfrey  de  Bouillon.  Its  advantageous  situation  on 
the  Schelde  (Escaut) ,  which  is  here  1/3  M,  broad  and  30  ft.  deep 
at  high  tide  (60  M.  from  the  sea),  rendered  Antwerp  a  very  im- 
portant and  wealthy  place  in  the  Middle  Ages.  Commerce,  which 
luxury  and  revolution  had  banished  from  other  Flemish  towns, 
especially  Bruges,  sought  refuge  here  about  the  close  of  the 
loth  century.  Under  Emp.  Charles  V.  Antwerp  was  perhaps 
the  most  prosperous  and  wealthy  city  on  the  continent,  surpass- 
ing even  Venice  itself.  When  at  the  height  of  its  prosperity  it 
numbered  125,000  inhab.  (in  1568).  At  that  period  thousands 
of  vessels  are  said  to  have  lain  in  the  Schelde  at  one  time,  while 
a  hundred  or  more  arrived  and  departed  daily.  The  great  fairs 
held  here  attracted  merchants  from  all  parts  of  the  civilised  world. 
The  Florentine  Guicciardini,  an  excellent  authority  in  these  matters 
(p.  xiii),  records  that  in  1566  the  spices  and  sugar  imported  from 
Portugal  were  valued  at  1^2  million  ducats  (750,000i.,  an  enormous 
sum  according  to  the  value  of  money  at  that  period),  silk  and  gold 
wares  from  Italy  3  million,  grain  from  the  Baltic  II/2  million, 
French  and  German  wines  21/2  million,  and  imports  from  England 
12  million  ducats.   Upwards  of  a  thousand  foreign  commercial  firms 


History.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    139 

bad  established  themselves  at  Antwerp,  and  one  of  the  Fuggers, 
the  merchant-princes  of  Augshurg,  died  here  leaving  a  fortune  of 
2  million  ducats.  The  Flemish  manufactures  (carpets,  clothing 
stnfiFs,  gold  and  silver  -svares)  also  enjoyed  a  high  reputation  after 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  were  exported  from  Antwerp 
to  Arabia,  Persia,  and  India. 

Antwerp's  decline  began  during  the  Spanish  regime.  The 
terrors  of  the  Inquisition  banished  thousands  of  the  industrious 
citizens,  many  of  whom  sought  refuge  in  England,  where  they 
established  silk-factories ,  and  contributed  greatly  to  stimulate 
English  commerce.  Fearful  havoc  was  committed  by  the  cruel 
Spanish  soldiery  in  1576,  when  the  city  was  unscrupulously  pil- 
laged, and  lost  7000  of  its  inhabitants  by  fire  and  sword ;  it  after- 
wards suffered  severely  during  a  siege  of  fourteen  months  followed 
by  its  capture  by  Duke  Alexander  of  Parma  in  1585,  when  the 
population  was  reduced  to  85,000;  and  in  1589  the  population  had 
further  dwindled  to  55,000.  In  addition  to  these  disasters ,  the 
citizens  were  deprived  of  the  greater  part  of  their  commerce  by  the 
intrigues  of  their  Dutch  rivals ,  who  during  the  siege  of  the  city  by 
the  Duke  of  Parma  used  secret  means  to  prevent  assistance  being 
rendered  to  the  besieged,  and  afterwards  erected  forts  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Schelde  to  prevent  its  navigation  by  Antwerp  vessels.  The 
maritime  trade  of  the  city  received  its  death-blow  from  the  Treaty  of 
MiJnster  in  1648,  by  which  Holland  was  declared  independent  of 
Spain,  and  it  was  agreed  that  no  sea-going  vessel  should  be  permit- 
ted to  ascend  to  Antwerp,  but  should  unload  at  a  Dutch  port,  whence 
merchandise  should  be  forwarded  to  Antwerp  by  river-barges  only. 
In  1790  the  population  had  dwindled  down  to  40,000  souls.  In  Aug., 
1794,  the  French  obtained  possession  of  Antwerp ,  re-opened  the 
navigation  of  the  Schelde,  and  dismantled  the  forts  erected  by  the 
Dutch  at  its  embouchure.  Napoleon,  who  recognised  the  strategical 
importance  of  the  situation  of  Antwerp,  caused  a  harbour  and  new 
quays  to  be  constructed,  but  the  wars  in  which  he  was  engaged 
prevented  him  from  actively  promoting  the  interests  of  commerce.. 
In  1814  the  city  was  defended  against  the  Allies  by  Carnot,  but 
was  surrendered  to  the  British  under  Gen.  Graham,  and  afterwards 
incorporated  with  the  newly-constituted  kingdom  of  the  Nether- 
lands. The  prosperity  of  Antwerp  received  a  new  impetus  from 
the  trade  which  it  now  carried  on  with  the  Dutch  colonies  (in  1830 
population  73,506),  but  it  was  again  utterly  ruined  by  the  revolu- 
tion of  1830,  in  which  the  citizens  participated  sorely  against  their 
will,  and  which  diverted  its  trade  to  Rotterdam  and  Amsterdam.  In 
1830  the  town  was  occupied  by  the  Belgian  insurgents  and  was 
bombarded  from  the  citadel  by  the  Dutch  general  Chasse,  who  in 
his  turn  was  besieged  here  by  the  French  for  twenty-four  days 
in  1832.  At  the  end  of  this  siege  the  unfortunate  town  presented 
a  scene  of  frightful  desolation,  and  it  was  many  years  before  Ant- 


\iO   Route  15.  ANTWERP.  History. 

werp  began  to  recover  from  these  calamities.  Indeed  the  tide  of 
prosperity  did  not  again  set  in  fully  till  1863,  when  the  right  of 
levying  navigation-dues  on  the  Schelde,  granted  to  Holland  by  the 
peace  of  1839,  was  commuted  for  a  sum  of  36,000,000  fr.,  one- 
third  paid  by  Belgium  and  the  rest  by  the  other  powers  interested. 
Since  that  date,  however,  its  commerce  has  increased  in  a  greater 
ratio  than  that  of  any  other  European  seaport,  the  increase  being 
due  chiefly  to  the  great  augmentation  of  the  steamer-traffic.  In 
1840-49  the  port  was  entered  annually  by  1544  ships  of  242,468 
tons'  burden  ;  in  1850-59,  by  1830  ships  of  367,487  tons;  in  1860- 
69,  by  2957  ships  of  822,533  tons;  in  1870-78,  by  4510  ships  of 
2,083,516  tons;  in  1889,  by  4379  ships  of  4,050,706  tons  ^3608 
steamers,  771  sailing-ships).  In  1864  the  value  of  the  imports  was 
410  million  francs  ;  in  1884  it  was  about  1122  million  francs ;  within 
the  same  period  the  value  of  the  exports  rose  from  159  million  to 
433  million  francs,  and  that  of  the  transit-trade  from  76  million  to 
281  million  francs,  in  spite  of  the  competition  of  Dutch  ports. 

Antwerp  is  the  principal  arsenal  of  the  kingdom  of  Belgium, 
and  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  in  Europe.  Since  1859  a  num- 
ber of  advanced  works  have  been  constructed  on  modern  principles, 
and  the  city  and  river  are  defended  by  broad  and  massive  ramparts 
upwards  of  S^/o  M.  in  length.  Antwerp  is  intended  to  serve  as  the 
rendezvous  of  the  Belgian  army,  should  it  be  compelled ,  in  case 
of  the  violation  of  the  neutrality  of  the  country,  to  retire  before  an 
enemy  of  superior  force.  It  is  calculated  that  it  would  require 
an  army  of  170,000  men  to  besiege  it  effectually,  and  at  least  a 
year  to  reduce  it  by  starvation.  —  The  removal  of  the  old  ramparts 
has  allowed  the  town  to  expand  to  six  times  its  former  size  (now 
nearly  7  sq.  M.). 

Antwerp  is  the  most  interesting  town  in  Belgium,  and,  the 
population  being  predominantly  Flemish,  it  resembles  a  Dutch  or  a 
German  city  in  many  of  its  characteristics.  The  numerous  master- 
pieces of  painting  which  it  possesses  afford  one  of  the  best  proofs 
of  its  mediaeval  prosperity.  The  fascinating  influence  of  Rubens 
(see  Introd.)  cannot  be  appreciated  without  a  visit  to  Antwerp, 
where  his  finest  works  are  preserved. 

In  our  own  times  Antwerp  has  made  a  vigorous  effort  to  regain 
the  artistic  pre-eminence  which  it  so  gloriously  asserted  during 
the  17th  century.  The  modern  revival  of  art,  which  began  about 
the  end  of  the  first  quarter  of  the  present  century,  took  its  rise  in 
Antwerp.  Van  Bree,  Braekeleer^  and  others,  who  trod  in  the  wont- 
ed paths  of  academic  art,  were  succeeded  by  revolutionaries,  whose 
works  clearly  betrayed  their  connection  with  the  political  agitation 
for  the  separation  of  Belgium  from  Holland.  But  this  predominance 
of  patriotic  themes  was  transitory ;  and  a  more  important  and  more 
lasting  effort  was  next  made  to  resuscitate  the  ancient  national 
style  of  art,  and  to  revive  a  just  appreciation  of  Rubens  and  his 


Cathedral.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    141 

contemporaries.  Gustav  Wappers  (1803-74)  was  the  first  to  break 
^ound  -with  his  'Burgomaster  Yan  der  Werff  during  the  siege  of 
Leyden',  which,  when  exhibited  in  1830,  was  received  with  great 
applause  and  awakened  much  imitation.  Nicaise  de  Keyser  (1813- 
80),  whose  battle-pieces  are  marked  by  great  liveliness  and  fresh- 
ness of  colour,  adopted  a  similar  style.  The  Academy  of  Antwerp, 
■which  has  been  presided  over  by  each  of  these  master*^  in  turn, 
deserves  the  credit  of  reviving  in  modern  art-education  the  careful 
study  of  technique,  and  especially  of  colouring.  Neither  Wappers 
nor  Keyser,  however,  has  shown  so  much  zeal  in  reverting  to  the 
early  Flemish  style  of  art  as  Hendrik  Leys  (1815-69),  the  founder 
of  the  so-called  'archaic  school',  who  not  only  gave  the  preference 
to  the  subjects  used  in  the  loth  and  16th  centuries,  but  has  design- 
ed, painted,  and  grouped  in  precisely  the  same  style  as  the  paint- 
ers of  that  epoch.  The  figures  in  the  much-valued  pictures  by  this 
master  seem  as  if  they  had  stepped  out  of  ancient  canvasses.  The 
Dutch  painter  Alma  Tadema  (settled  in  London),  who  pursues  the 
archaic  style  with  such  distinguished  success,  was  a  pupil  of  Leys. 
Among  the  other  eminent  modern  artists  of  Antwerp  may  be  men- 
tioned Van  Lerius  (18'23-76),  Dyckmans  (1811-88),  Jacobs,  Stob- 
baerts,  Verlat  (1825-90),  and  Van  Beers. 

The  traveller,  especially  if  pressed  for  time,  should  at  once  direct 
his  steps  to  the  Cathedral.  On  its  S.  side  is  the  Place  Yerte 
(PI.  B,  4),  formerly  the  churchyard,  adorned  with  a  Statue  of 
Eubens,  in  bronze,  by  W.  Geefs.  It  was  erected  in  1840,  the 
figure  being  13  ft.,  the  pedestal  20  ft.  in  height.  The  scrolls 
and  books,  together  with  the  brush,  palette,  and  hat,  which  lie  at 
the  feet  of  the  statue,  are  allusions  to  the  pursuits  of  the  master 
as  a  diplomatist  and  statesman ,  as  well  as  a  painter.  —  A  military 
band  plays  in  the  Place  Yerte  twice  a  week  on  summer-evenings 
from  8  to  10  o'clock  (p.  138"). 

The  *Cathedral  {^Notre  Dame;  PI.  B,  3),  the  largest  and  most 
beautiful  Gothic  church  in  the  Netherlands ,  is  of  cruciform  shape 
with  triple  aisles.  It  was  begun  in  1352  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  Jean  Amel  or  Appelmans  of  Boulogne.  After  his  death 
in  1398  the  work  was  continued  by  his  son  Peter^  who  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Jean  Tac  in  1434  and  Master  Everaert  in  1449.  To  this 
period  (1352-1449)  belong  the  choir  with  its  ambulatory  and  chapels, 
the  sacristies,  and  the  tower  up  to  the  first  gallery.  The  S.  aisles 
were  built  in  1425-72,  the  N.  aisles  in  1472-1500.  From  1502  to 
1518  the  building  operations  were  directed  by  Herman  van  Waghe- 
makere  and  his  son  Dominic,  the  chief  evidence  of  whose  skill  is 
the  upper  part  of  the  N.  tower,  in  the  Flamboyant  style.  The  S. 
tower  was  left  unfinished  in  1474.  The  tiave  and  aisles  were  not 
vaulted  till  1611-16.  The  rich  portal  and  the  fine  window  over  it, 
adorned  with  tracery,  should  be  examined.  In  1566  the  church 
was  seriously  damaged  by  puritanical  zealots,  and  again  in  1794  by 


142    Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Cathedral. 

Frencli  republicans.  The  exterior  is  unfortunately  somewhat  dis- 
figured by  the  mean  houses  clustered  around  it,  but  those  near  the 
principal  facade  have  been  removed.  The  restoration  of  the  edi- 
fice was  superintended  by  Fr.  Durlet  of  Antwerp  (d.  1867). 

*Intkiiior.  [The  church  is  usually  entered  from  the  Place  Verte 
by  the  narrow  lane  on  the  S.  side,  at  the  end  of  which,  on  the  right, 
opposite  the  S.  portal,  is  the  house  of  the  concierge  (No.  19),  where 
tickets  are  obtained.  Visitors  ring.  Guide  quite  superfluous.  The 
principal  pictures  are  shown,  except  during  Lent,  gratis  on  Sun.  and 
Thurs.  8-12;  on  other  days  12-4  p.m.,  admission  1  fr.]  Internally 
the  church  is  simple,  but  grand  and  impressive,  and  the  rich  per- 
spective of  its  six  aisles  is  very  effective.  Its  length  is  128  yds.  5 
width  of  nave  57  yds.,  of  transept,  74  yds,  ;  height  130  ft.  Its  area 
amounts  to  70,060  sq.  ft.  (that  of  Cologne  Cathedral  is  87,000, 
St.  Paul's  in  London  109,000,  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  212,000  sq.  ft.). 
The  vaulting  is  supported  by  125  pillars.  The  level  of  the  pavement 
has  been  several  times  raised. 

The  S.  Transept,  entered  from  the  Place  Verte,  contains 
Ruhens's  far-famed  masterpiece,  the  **Descent  from  the  Cross ,  a 
winged  picture,  painted  in  1612  (in  Paris  from  1794  to  1814; 
restored  in  1852).  On  the  inside  of  the  wings  are  the  Salutation, 
and  the  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  on  the  outside  St.  Christopher 
carrying  the  Infant  Saviour,  and  a  hermit.  The  Mary  in  a  blue 
robe  and  the  figure  with  a  basket  in  the  wings  are  portraits  of  the 
master's  first  wife  and  his  daughter  respectively.  In  the  N.  transept 
is  Ruhens's  ^Elevation  of  the  Cross,  painted  in  1610,  soon  after  his 
return  from  a  residence  of  eight  years  in  Italy  (also  in  Paris  from 
1794  to  1814). 

The  Descent  fkom  the  Cross  is  the  most  magnificent  of  these  cel- 
ebrated pictures.  The  white  linen  on  which  the  body  of  the  Saviour  lies 
is  a  peculiar  and  very  effective  feature  in  the  composition,  borrowed  pro- 
bably from  a  similar  work  by  Daniele  da  Volterra  at  Rome.  The  principal 
figure  itself  is  admirably  conceived  and  carefully  drawn,  and  the  attitude 
extremely  expressive  of  the  utter  inertness  of  a  dead  body.  Two  of  the 
three  Maries  are  more  attractive  than  is  usual  with  Ruhens's  female  figures, 
but  the  flabby  countenance  of  Joseph  of  Arimathsea  exhibits  neither  sen- 
timent nor  emotion.  The  arrangement  of  the  whole  is  most  masterly  and 
judicious,  the  figures  not  too  ponderous,  and  the  colouring  rich  and  har- 
monious, while  a  degree  of  sentiment  is  not  wanting,  so  that  this  work  is 
well  calculated  to  exhibit  Ruhens's  wonderful  genius  in  the  most  favourable 
light.  According  to  a  well-known  anecdote,  this  picture,  when  in  an  un- 
finished state,  fell  from  the  easel  in  Ruhens's  absence.  Van  Dyck^  as  the  most 
skilful  of  his  pupils,  was  chosen  to  repair  the  damage,  which  he  did  so  suc- 
cessfully, that  Rubens  on  his  return  declared  that  his  pupil's  work  sur- 
passed his  own.  The  parts  thus  said  to  have  been  retouched  are  the  face 
of  the  Virgin  and  the  arm  of  the  Magdalene. 

The  popular  story  with  regard  to  the  origin  of  this  famous  picture  is 
another  of  those  picturesque  fictions  which  modern  investigation  has  so 
rudely  dispelled.  Rubens' is  said  to  have  been  employed  by  the  Guild  of 
Arquebusiers  to  paint  an  altarpiece  representing  their  patron  saint 'St. Chris- 
tophorus'  {i.e.  'the  bearer  of  Christ'),  as  the  price  of  which  he  was  to  re- 
ceive a  piece  of  ground  from  them  as  a  site  for  his  house.  Instead  of  ful- 
filling the  contract  literally  by  painting  a  single  picture  of  St.  Christopher, 


Cathedral.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    143 

Rubens  generously  determined  to  produce  a  far  more  noble  work  by  repre- 
senting the  'bearing  of  Christ'  allegorically,  viz.  in  the  principal  picture 
Christ  borne  by  his  friends,  in  one  wing  by  his  Virgin  mother  before  the 
Nativity,  and  in  the  other  by  the  aged  Simeon  in  the  Temple.  The  picture 
was  finished  and  shown  to  the  Arquebusiers,  who  could  not  fail  to  be  grati- 
fied by  its  magnificence-,  but  the  allegorical  mode  of  its  execution  was 
entirely  lost  upon  them,  and  they  complained  that  there  was  no  St.  Chris- 
topher. In  order  to  satisfy  them,  Rubens  then  proceeded  to  paint  St.  Chris- 
topher in  person  on  the  outside  of  one  shutter,  while  on  the  other  he 
represented  a  hermit  with  a  lantern,  and  an  owl,  emblematical,  it  was 
said ,  of  the  obtuseness  of  the  worthy  Arqiiebusiers.  The  facts  of  the 
case,  however,  were  simply  these.  A  dispute  having  arisen  about  the  cost  of 
a  wall  which  separated  Ru'bens's  property  from  that  of  the  Arquebusiers,  the 
burgomaster  Rockox,  the  captain  of  the  guild  and  a  friend  of  Rubens, 
persuaded  him  to  paint  this  picture  in  order  to  equalise  the  price  to  be 
paid  by  each  party.  The  hermit  and  the  owl  are  well-known  features  in 
every  picture  relating  to  the  legend  of  St.  Christopher. 

The  Elevation  of  the  Ckoss,  although  inferior,  is  also  a  magni- 
ficent work.  The  figures  are  remarkable  for  their  easy  and  natural  atti- 
tudes, although  inclined  to  be  too  heavy.  The  great  life  which  pervades 
the  whole,  and  the  variety  of  the  composition,  compensate  to  some  extent 
for  deficiency  of  sentiment.  In  the  figures  of  Christ  and  his  executioners, 
the  master  displays  his  thorough  acquaintance  with  the  anatomy  of  the 
human  frame.  The  horses  are  noble  and  lifelike,  and  a  dog  has  even  been 
introduced  to  give  greater  diversity  to  the  scene.  The  latter  was  added 
by  Rubens  in  1627,  when  he  retouched  the  picture.  The  wings  form  part 
of  the  same  subject.  On  the  right  is  a  group  of  women  and  children,  with 
horror  depicted  in  their  countenances,  behind  them  are  the  Virgin  and 
St.  John;  on  the  left,  mounted  officers,  behind  them  the  thieves,  who  are 
being  nailed  to  their  crosses  by  the  executioners. 

Choir.  The  high-altarpiece  is  an  *Assumption  by  Rubens,  said 
to  have  been  painted  in  sixteen  days,  doubtless  with  the  aid  of  his 
pupils,  for  the  sum  of  1600  florins.  This  picture,  though  less 
attractive  than  the  two  above  mentioned,  exhibits  the  transcendent 
genius  of  the  master  in  an  almost  equal  degree  and  ranks  with  the 
Assumption  in  the  Belvedere  at  Vienna  as  one  of  the  best  of  the 
ten  canvasses  Rubens  devoted  to  this  subject.  The  Virgin  is  repre- 
sented among  the  clouds,  surrounded  by  a  heavenly  choir,  below 
whom  are  the  apostles  and  numerous  other  figures.  The  colouring  is 
less  gorgeous  than  is  usual  in  Rubens's  pictures.  —  The  high-altar 
dates  from  1824.  —  The  modern  Stalls  and  the  rich  Gothic  Episcopal 
Thrones,  in  the  form  of  tabernacles,  carved  in  wood,  are  adorned 
with  groups  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin  on  the  S.  side  and  from  that 
of  the  Saviour  on  the  N.  side,  and  with  numerous  small  statues, 
which  are  admirably  designed  and  beautifully  executed.  The  archi- 
tectural portions  are  by  W.  Durlet,  the  plastic  by  Ch.  Geerts  (p.  79). 

The  other  works  of  art  in  the  cathedral  are  all  very  inferior  in 
interest  to  the  three  pictures  by  Rubens.  As  their  position  is 
frequently  altered,  the  following  description  cannot  claim  to  be 
permanently  accurate.  We  begin  to  the  S.,  near  the  Descent  from 
the  Cross,  in  the  — 

Reteo-Choir.  1st  Chapel  (on  the  S.)  :  modern  stained  glass, 
by  Didron  of  Paris  (1872],  representing  the  Mourning  over  the  body 
of  Christ.  — 2nd  Chapel:  Rubens,  the  Resurrection,  painted  for 


144   Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Cathedral. 

the  tomb  of  his  friend  the  printer  Moretus  (see  p.  164;  portrait 
above),  half  life-size ;  on  the  inside  of  the  shutters  John  the  Bap- 
tist and  St.  Martina,  on  the  outside  angels.  The  best  view  of  the 
Assumption  is  obtained  from  this  chapel.  —  3rd  Chapel:  virtus 
Quellin  the  Younger,  Marble  monument  of  Bishop  Ambrosius  Ca- 
pello,  the  only  monument  of  a  bishop  in  the  church  which  has 
escaped  destruction.  Interesting  altarpiece  by  a  Cologne  master  of 
the  14th  cent.,  representing  St.  Michael  and  the  dragon  with  angels 
and  saints.  —  4th  Chapel :  De  Backer,  Last  Judgment,  with  por- 
traits of  the  Plantin  family  (generally  covered);  beneath  it  the 
tombstone  of  Plantin,  a  celebrated  printer  (d.  1589;  see  p.  154), 
with  inscription  by  Justus  Lipsius.  —  5th  Chapel :  Modern  stained 
glass  by  J.  Bethune.  —  Adjacent,  a  carved  confessional  by  P.  Ver- 
bruggen  (d.  1686),  of  whose  workmanship  there  are  other  similar 
specimens  in  the  church.  —  6th  Chapel :  Modern  stained  glass  by 
Bethune;  mural  decoration  in  the  15th  cent,  style  by  J.  Baetens, 
a  pupil  of  Leys ;  Mater  Dolorosa  by  A.  Quellin  (d.  1700).  —  At  the 
back  of  the  high-altar,  the  Dying  Mary,  a  large  picture  by  Matthys- 
sens  (17th  cent.).  Below  it,  the  Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  the  An- 
nunciation, and  the  Visitation,  painted  in  grisaille  with  great  skill 
by  Van  Brie  in  imitation  of  half-relief.  In  front  of  it,  Tomb 
of  Isabella  of  Bourbon  (d.  1456),  wife  of  Charles  the  Bold,  a  re- 
cumbent figure  in  bronze.  —  7th  Chapel :  Otho  Vaenius,  Entomb- 
ment; Luc.  de  Heere,  Descent  from  the  Cross ;  modern  stained  glass. 
—  8th  Chapel,  recently  restored  :  To  the  right  a  somewhat  altered 
replica  of  Rubens's  Christ  a  la  paille  (p.  161);  stained  glass  of  1648 
representing  the  arms  of  the  Guild  of  St.  Luke,  to  which  this 
chapel  belonged.  —  9th  Chapel :  Modern  carved  altar  with  poly- 
chrome ornamentation  in  the  mediaeval  style ,  executed  by  J.  de 
Bock  and  J.  de  Wint  from  the  design  of  Jos.  Schadde,  with  scenes 
from  the  life  of  St.  Joseph,  to  whom  this  chapel  is  dedicated. 
Paintings  by  L.  Hendricks:  Philip  IV.  dedicating  Belgium  to 
St.  Joseph,  Pius  IX.  appointing  Joseph  patron-saint  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  church  in  Belgium.  Winged  altarpieces  by  Arn.  Mytens 
the  Elder  (Crucifixion,  Journey  and  Adoration  of  the  Magi)  and 
Corn,  de  Vos  the  Elder  (Descent  from  the  Cross).  The  calling  of 
St.  Joseph  and  the  Marriage  of  Joseph  and  the  Virgin  belong  to 
the  school  of  Roger  van  de.r  Weyden.  Stained  glass  from  designs 
by  A.  Statins  and  A.  Janssens,  representing  the  tree  of  Jesse.  Con- 
fessionals with  large  statues,  carved  in  wood  by  Verbruggen.  Altar- 
piece,  a  Madonna  and  Child,  after  Van  Dyck.  —  10th  Chapel: 
Crucifix  in  Parian  marble  by  Van  der  Neer.  —  11th  Chapel:  Large 
winged  altar-piece  (modern)  in  carved  wood.  —  12th  Chapel  (a  large 
one,  adjoining  the  last)  :  A.  Quellin,  Statue  of  St.  Anthony;  stained 
glass  of  1503,  commemorating  a  commercial  treaty  between  Henry  VIL 
of  England  and  Philip  I.  of  Castile. 

Transept.  l?M&ens'«  pictures,  described  on  pp.  142, 143.  Farther 


Cathedral.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    145 

on,  in  the  N.  Transept:  Stained  glass  of  1615  and  1616  (that  above 
the  portal  portraying  Archduke  Albert  and  his  consort  Isabella,  God- 
frey de  Bouillon  founding  the  Order  of  the  Canons  of  St.  Michael, 
etc.),  restored  in  1866.  On  the  right,  Francken  the  Elder ^  Christ 
and  the  Doctors  ,  among  whom  are  portraits  of  Luther,  Calvin,  and 
Erasmus;  on  the  wings,  church-fathers.  —  S.  Transept:  Large 
stained-glass  window  by  Capronnier,  Old  and  New  Testament  saints ; 
on  the  right,  Murillo  (?),  St.  Francis ;  on  the  left,  M.  de  Fos,  Mar- 
riage at  Cana ;  0.  Vaenius^  Last  Supper.  —  The  dome  above  the 
intersection  of  the  nave  and  transept  was  constructed  by  Dom.  van 
Waghemakere  in  1533 ;  it  is  adorned  with  an  Assumption  by  Corn. 
Schut  (1647). 

The  Nave  and  aisles  contain  some  ancient  and  modern  Stained- 
glass  Windows^  the  former  dating  from  the  16th  and  17th  cent., 
but  to  a  great  extent  restored,  the  latter  executed  by  Capronnier 
in  the  old  style.  The  Pulpit,  with  its  trees,  shrubs,  and  birds 
carved  in  wood,  is  by  Van  der  Voort  (1713). 

The  Lady  Chapel  in  the  N.  aisle  contains  a  white  marble  altar, 
constructed  in  1825  in  exact  imitation  of  an  altar  by  Art.  Quellin 
tlie  Younger  and  P.  Verbruggen  the  Elder,  which  had  been  destroyed 
in  1798.  The  four  reliefs,  representing  the  Annunciation,  Visitation, 
Presentation  in  the  Temple,  and  Assumption,  are  the  original  ones 
by  Quellin.  The  stained  glass,  referring  to  the  worship  of  the 
Virgin,  was  presented  by  King  Leopold  IL  The  much-belauded 
head  of  Christ  on  white  marble ,  on  the  pillar  to  the  right  of  the 
altar,  is  ascribed  to  Da  Vinci,  but  is  really  the  work  of  a  Fle- 
mish artist,  name  unknown. 

In  the  S.  aisle,  the  Passion  in  14  scenes,  painted  in  the  med- 
iseval  style  by  Vinck  and  Hendricks,  pupils  of  Leys,  in  1865-67. 
Another  painting,  by  Com.  Schut,  represents  the  Holy  Ghost 
surrounded  by  angels.  The  Chapel  of  the  Sacrament,  at  the  E.  end 
of  the  aisle,  contains  an  altar  of  the  beginning  of  the  century,  a 
Christ  at  Emmaus ,  by  iferreyns  (1825),  and  a  tabernacle  by  Ver- 
bruggen. The  subjects  of  the  stained  glass  are :  Last  Supper,  by 
liombouts ,  executed  in  1503  and  restored  in  1872 ;  St.  Amandus 
preaching  Christianity  at  Antwerp,  St.  Norbert  restoring  the  Roman 
Catholic  form  of  worship  at  Antwerp,  both  by  Didron;  John  the  Bap- 
tist and  John  the  Evangelist,  of  the  15th  century.  —  The  Chapelle  des 
Mariages  contains  stained  glass  by  Van  Diepenbeeck,  1635.  The 
altarpiece  is  a  Holy  Family  by  H.  van  Balen,  in  a  landscape  by 
J.  Brueghel.   The  statue  of  the  Virgin  is  by  A.  Quellin  the  Elder. 

Musical  works  by  the  most  celebrated  composers  are  performed 
at  high  mass  (10  a.m.)  on  Sundays  and  festivals  (chair  5  c). 

The  *  Tower  (402  ft.),  a  beautiful  and  elaborate  open 
structure,  was  begun  by  Jean  Amel  or  his  son  (comp.  p.  141),  and 
completed  by  Dom.  van  Waghemakere,  whose  name  is  inscribed  on 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  •JO 


146    Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Hdtel  de  Ville, 

the  highest  gallery.  The  S.  tower  has  only  attained  one-third  of  the 
projected  height.  Charles  V.  used  to  say  that  this  elegant  specimen 
of  Gothic  architecture  ought  to  be  preserved  in  a  case,  and  Napoleon 
is  said  to  have  compared  it  to  a  piece  of  Mechlin  lace.  The  entrance 
to  the  tower  is  adjacent  to  theW.  portal.  The  crucifix  over  the  door 
was  cast  in  1635  with  the  metal  of  a  statue  formerly  erected  in  the 
citadel  by  Philip  II.,  'cr  aere  captivo\  to  the  Duke  of  Alva. 

The  concierge,  who  lives  near,  at  Rue  des  Pelerins  14  (PI.  B,  3,  4),  is 
generally  on  the  spot  (fee  for  1  person  75  c,  for  2  persons  1  fr.,  for  each 
additional  person  25  c.).  The  ascent  is  fatiguing;  514  steps  lead  to  the 
first  gallery,  and  102  more  to  the  second  and  highest.  The  spire  at  the 
top  of  the  tower  perhaps  dates  from  1592.  The  view  from  the  second 
gallery  is  more  extensive  than  that  from  the  lower.  With  the  aid  of 
a  good  telescope,  the  spectator  may  in  clear  weather  follow  the  course 
of  the  Schelde  as  far  as  Flushing,  and  distingiiish  the  towers  of  Bergen- 
op-Zoom ,  Breda,  Brussels,  Malines,  and  Ghent.  The  Chimes  are  among 
the  most  complete  in  Belgium,  consisting  of  99  bells,  the  smallest  of 
which  is  only  15  inches  in  circumference;  the  largest,  cast  in  1507,  weighs 
8  tons.  On  the  occasion  of  its  consecration,  Charles  V.  stood  'godfather'. 
An  old  Well,  adjacent  to  the  principal  portal,  and  opposite  the 
door  of  the  tower,  is  protected  by  a  canopy  of  iron,  and  surmounted 
by  a  statue  of  Salvius  Brabo  (see  p.  147).  It  was  executed  by  Quinten 
Mnssys  (d.  1529),  'in  synen  tyd  grofsmidt,  en  daernaer  famues  schil- 
der'  ('at  one  time  a  blacksmith,  afterwards  a  famous  painter'),  ac- 
cording to  the  inscription  on  his  tombstone  adjoining  the  entrance 
to  the  tower  of  the  Cathedral.  (The  original  tombstone,  of  which 
this  is  a  copy,  is  in  the  old  Museum;  p.  148.)  This  remarkable 
and  talented  man  was  originally  a  blacksmith  from  Louvain ,  who 
came  to  seek  his  fortune  at  Antwerp ,  where  this  work  is  one  of 
the  specimens  of  his  skill.  Here,  according  to  the  romantic  but 
apocryphal  story  (comp.  p.  163),  he  became  enamoured  of  the 
daughter  of  a  painter ,  and  to  propitiate  the  father  and  win  the 
daughter  he  exchanged  the  anvil  for  the  palette.  He  wooed  and 
painted  successfully,  and  was  chiefly  instrumental  in  raising  the 
School  of  Antwerp  to  a  celebrity  equal  to  that  of  Bruges  and  Ghent. 
He  was  one  of  the  first  Flemish  masters  who  adopted  the  showy  and 
effective  style  of  the  Italian  schools,  while  his  execution  was  hardly 
less  elaborate  and  faithful  to  nature  than  that  of  his  predecessors. 
His  masterpiece  is  preserved  in  the  Museum  (p.  164).  A  slab  im- 
mured at  the  above-mentioned  spot  in  1629  by  his  'grateful  and 
admiring  posterity',  bears  the  inscription,  '■  Connuhialis  amor  de 
Mulcibre  fecit  Apellern'. 

The  *H6tel  de  Ville,  situated  in  the  Grand'  Place  (PI.  B,  3), 
in  the  vicinity ,  towards  the  N.  of  the  cathedral ,  was  erected 
in  1561-65  in  the  Renaissance  style  by  Cornelis  de  Vriendt,  and 
restored  in  its  present  form  in  1581,  after  its  partial  destruction 
by  the  Spaniards.  The  plain  facade ,  93  yds.  in  length  and 
125  ft.  in  height,  rises  over  a  rusticated  ground-floor,  with  ar- 
cades in  two  principal  stories  (Doric  and  Ionic),  resting  on  massive 
pillars.     Above  these  is  a  colonnade  which  supports  the  roof.    The 


Hotel  deVille.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    147 

central  part ,  with  its  circular  arched  windows ,  rises  in  three  ad- 
ditional stories,  diminishing  in  size  as  they  ascend ,  to  a  height  of 
180  ft.  In  a  niche  above  stands  the  Virgin  as  the  tutelary  saint 
of  the  city,  a  figure  placed  here  in  1585;  below  this,  on  the  right 
and  left,  are  allegorical  figures  of  Wisdom  and  Justice. 

The  'Interior,  which  should  be  visited  in  the  morning  (no  adm.  after 
V2  noon  on  3Ion. ;  concierge  1  fr. ;  entr.  by  the  main  facade  beside  the  letter 
box),  has  since  1882  been  undergoing  a  thorough  restoration  from  designs  of 
Af.  J.  Dens.  The  Staircase  is  lavishly  decorated  with  coloured  Belgian 
marble,  and  the  glass  roof  is  supported  by  carved  wooden  Caryatides,  repre- 
senting different  branches  of  industry.  On  the  walls  are  views  of  Antwerp 
in  the  16-17 th  centuries.  The  iinest  of  the  rooms,  all  of  which  are  em- 
bellished with  carved  wooden  panelling,  is  the  great  hall,  or  Salle  Lets, 
decorated  with  a  series  of  admirably  executed  paintings  by  H.  Leys  (1814-69). 
—  1.  (to  the  left  of  the  entrance),  Solemn  entry  of  Charles  V.,  who 
swears  to  respect  the  privileges  of  the  city,  1514;  2.  (farther  to  the  right, 
on  the  principal  wall).  The  Burgomaster  as  head  of  the  military  forces 
of  the  town,  or  the  Burgomaster  Van  Ursele  entrusting  the  magistrate  Van 
Spangcn  with  the  command  of  the  municipal  guard  for  the  defence  of 
the  city,  1542;  3.  3Iunicipal  rights,  or  the  rights  of  citizenship  conferred 
on  Batt.  Palavicini  of  Genoa;  4.  The  Burgomaster  as  civil  chief  of  the 
town,  or  3Iargaret  of  Parma  committing  the  keys  of  the  city  to  the  burgo- 
master during  the  troubles  of  1567.  Also  portraits  of  twelve  princes 
celebrated  in  the  annals  of  the  country,  from  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  (10%) 
to  Philippe  le  Bel  (1491),  most  of  whom  granted  privileges  to  the 
town.  The  architectural  construction  of  the  room,  closely  resembling  the 
best  Italian  Eenaissance  style,  is  also  noteworthy.  The  ceiling  bears  the 
arms  of  the  city  and  of  the  guilds.  The  apartment  of  the  burgomaster  contains 
a  Chimney-piece^  finely  sculptured  in  the  Renaissance  style,  from  the  old 
Abbey  of  Tongerloo  (p.  176),  representing  the  Jlarriage  of  Cana,  above 
which  arc  the  Raising  of  the  Serpent,  and  Abraham's"  Sacrifice.  There 
are  also  a  few  modern  pictures.  —  The  Salle  du  Coxseil  Comjiunal  con- 
tains ceiling-paintings  of  the  School  of  Rubens  (Pellegrini),  a  Judgment  of 
.Solomon  by  Floris,  life-size  portraits  of  the  royal  family  by  De  Keijser  and 
Wappevs.  and  an  elaborately  carved  wooden  balustrade  of  the  16th  cent., 
said  by  tradition  to  be  the  work  of  a  prisoner  of  the  Inquisition.  In  the 
Salle  des  Mariages,  completed  in  1885,  are  a  Renaissance  chimney-piece 
of  the  16th  cent.,  in  black  and  white  marble,  and  frescoes  by  Lagaye. 

The  space  in  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  is  the  best  point  for 
a  view  of  the  cathedral.  A  bronze  Fountiin  was  erected  in  1887  in 
the  Grand'  Place,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Salvius  Brabo,  a  mytlii- 
cal  hero  who  defeated  and  cut  off  the  hand  of  the  giant  Antigonus. 
The  giant  used  to  exact  a  heavy  toll  from  vessels  entering  tlie 
Schelde,and  ruthlessly  cut  off  and  threw  into  the  river  a  hand  of  every 
shipmaster  who  refused  to  pay.  Hence,  says  the  legend,  the  name 
of  the  town  ("Antwerp',  from  -hand  werpen';  werpen  =  to  tluow). 

Most  of  the  houses  in  the  Grand'  Place  are  Guild  Houses, 
formerly  belonging  to  the  different  corporations,  and  dating  from 
the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  The  most  conspicuous  are.  on  the  N., 
the  Guild  Hall  of  the  Archers  (No.  17),  of  1513,  and  the  Hall  of 
the  Coopers  (No.  15),  of  1579;  on  the  S.E.,  tine  House  of  the  Tailors 
(No.  3(3),  rebuilt  after  the  pillage  of  the  town  by  the  Spaniards  in 
1644;  and  the  Hall  of  the  Carpenters  (No.  40),  1646.  The  quaint 
and  narrow  Rue  des  Orfevres  leads  W.  from  the  market-place  to  the 
Schelde  in  a  few  minutes  (Promenoirs,  see  p.  170). 

10* 


14.S   Route  15.  ANTWERP.  St.  PauVs  Church. 

A  few  streets  to  the  N.  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  are  the  Vieilles 
Boucheries  (PI.  B,  3),  or  old  flesh-niarket,  a  lofty,  late -Gothic 
editice  constructed  in  1501-3  of  regular  courses  of  red  bricks  and 
white  stone,  with  four  hexagonal  turrets  at  the  corners.  It  is  used 
as  a  warehouse.  In  the  Kue  Zick,  to  tlio  N. ,  are  some  loth  cent, 
houses  ;  and  the  neighbouring  Rue  aux  Fromages  and  Rue  des  Ton- 
iieliers  also  contain  traces  of  ancient  Antwerp. 

In  the  vicinity  rises  the  Church  of  St.  Paul  (PI  B,  3),  in 
the  late-Gothic  style,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  adjoining 
Dominican  monastery.  It  was  erected  in  1540-71 ,  but  the  choir 
was  not  completed  until  after  1621.  Entrance  in  the  Rue  des 
Soeurs  Noires  (adm.  in  the  middle  of  the  day ;  knock,  fee  1  fr.). 

The  wall  of  the  N.  Aisle  of  the  church  is  adorned  with  fifteen 
pictures:  Van  Balen,  Annunciation  j  J.  Francken^  Visitation;  M.  de  Vos, 
Nativity  and  Purification  of  Mary;  Scourging  of  Christ,  after  Eubens; 
Van  Difcky  Bearing  the  Cross;  Rubens,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  Jordaens, 
Crucifixion;  Vinckboons,  Resurrection.  —  Transept:  De  Crayer ,  Virgin 
and  St.  Dominic;  ~Eubens,  Scourging  of  Christ  (covered);  at  the  allar, 
after  Caravaggio,  the  Virgin  giving  rosaries  to  St.  Dominic  for  dish-i- 
bution  (the  original  was  sent  to  Vienna  as  a  gift  to  the  Emp.  Joseph, 
who  sent  this  copy  as  a  substitute).  —  Choir.  High-altarpiece,  Cels, 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  a  work  of  the  beginning  of  the  present  century ; 
at  the  side,  tombs  of  Henri/  van  Vanck,  Margrave  of  Antwerp  (d.  1641), 
his  wife  Anna  Da^nant,  and  Bishops  Ambr.  Capello  and  Mich.  Oj)hovius 
(d.  1637).  —  S.  Aisle  :  altar  to  the  right,  De  Crayer,  Body  of  Christ  sur- 
rounded by  the  Magdalene,  St.  John,  and  angels;  at  the  entrance.  Tenters 
the  Elder.,  The  seven  Works  of  Mercy,  a  curious  assemblage  of  cripples  of 
every  description.  The  fine  Renaissance  wood-carving  of  the  choir-stalls, 
the  confessionals,  etc.,  is  worthy  of  examination.    Excellent  organ. 

The  inner  court  contains  a  'J/L  Calvary\  an  artificial  mound  covered 
with  pieces  of  rock  and  slag,  garnished  with  statues  of  saints,  angels, 
prophets,  and  patriarchs,  and  surmounted  by  a  crucifix.  The  grotto 
below  is  intended  to  represent  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem. 

Following  the  'Canal  des  Re'collets' ,  a  street  to  the  E.  of  the 
Church,  and  turning  to  the  left  through  the  Rue  des  Re'collets,  we 
reach  a  small  Place,  formed  by  the  junction  of  four  streets, 
where  the  entrance  to  the  former  museum  is  situated.  In  the  centre 
of  the  Place  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  rises  a  Statue  of  Van  Dyck,  executed  and 
preseiited  by  Leonhard  de  Cuyper,  in  1856. 

The  old  Franciscan  monastery  (PI.  C,  3),  Rue  du  Fagot  21,  con- 
tained the  Museum  before  it  was  transferred  in  1890  to  the  Palais 
des  Beaux-Arts  (p.  156).  From  the  garden  a  portico  leads  into  the 
old  monastery  church.  The  convent  is  occupied  by  the  celebrated 
Academie  des  Beaux  Arts ,  the  successor  of  the  mediaeval  guild  of 
St.  Luke,  a  corporation  founded  for  the  promotion  of  art  by  Philip 
the  Good,  Duke  of  Burgundy,  about  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent., 
and  richly  endowed  by  Philip  IV.  of  Spain.  The  number  of  mem- 
bers never  exceeds  twenty-five,  of  whom  ten  may  be  foreigners. 

M.  NoTEBOHM,  Rue  du  Fagot  3  (I'l.  B,  8),  pos?es.=e3  a  piivate  gallery  of 
upwards  of  GO  good  modern  pictures,  open  to  lovers  of  the  fine  arts  daily 
(1  fr.).  *P.  DelarocTie,  Holy  Family;  Art/  Scheffer,  Faiist  and  Marguerite, 
The  king  of  Thule;  Bellang^,  ^^apoleon  visiting  the  wounded  after  the 
battle  of  Austerlitz;  Gallait,  The  happy  and  unhappy  mother;  Koekkoek, 
Landscapes;  Lessing,  Luther  burning  the  papal  bull;  Leop,  Robert,  Neapo- 


Jesuits'  Church.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    149 

litan  fisbermen  playing  the  mandolin;  Gude,  Norwegian  landscape;  Ca- 
lame,  Swiss  landscape;  /.  A.  van  der  Veen,  Eve  and  the  Serpent,  and  Jos. 
Geefs,  Girl  at  a  brook,  two  marLle  statues.  In  a  separate  room,  eight 
ancient  works :  Murillo,  Assumption;  Sliugeland,  Portraits. 

Near  this  point ,  Rue  de  lEmpereur  5 ,  is  the  old  house  of 
Burgomaster  Rockox,  the  facade  of  which  was  designed  by  Rubens. 
—  the  Military  Hospital  CPl.  33 ;  E,  4)  was  once  the  house  of 
Burgomaster  van  Liere,  who  here  entertained  Charles  V.  during  his 
visit  to  Antwerp  in  1521.    Diirer  praises  the  building  in  his  diary. 

A  few  streets  farther  N.,  near  the  Avenue  du  Commerce  (p.  152), 
is  situated  the  small  church  of  St.  Antoine  (PI.  C,  21,  or  Church  of 
the  Capuchins,  erected  in  1589,  and  containing  two  valuable  pic- 
tures. On  the  W.  wall  of  the  left  aisle,  *Christ  mourned  over  by 
his  friends  and  two  angels,  by  Van  Dyck.  In  the  choir,  the  first 
picture  on  the  left,  St.  Anthony  receiving  the  Infant  Jesus  from  the 
arms  of  the  Virgin,  by  Rubens.  Opposite  the  last,  St.  Anthony  with 
the  stigmata,  after  Rubens. 


A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Cathedral  lies  the  former  Jesuits' 
Church  (Sf.  Charles  Borromee ;  PI.  B,  3),  built  in  1614-21  by 
the  Jesuit  Fr.  Aguillon  from  plans  by  Rubens,  and  sumptuously 
adorned  with  marble  and  works  of  art.  Rubens  himself  furnished  for 
it  no  fewer  than  36  pictures.  The  structure  was  unfortunately  struck 
by  lightning  in  1718  and  burned  to  the  ground,  with  the  exception 
of  the  choir  with  its  two  side-chapels  containing  three  large  altar- 
pieces  (Assumption,  Miracles  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola,  and  St.  Francis 
Xavier),  now  preserved  in  the  Belvedere  Gallery  at  Vienna.  The 
church  was  rebuilt  in  the  style  of  the  original  edifice,  though  with 
less  magnificence.  Handsome  facade.  Pleasing  bell-tower  in  the 
Renaissance  style. 

The  Interior  is  in  the  form  of  a  basilica  with  galleries.  Round  the 
walls,  to  a  height  of  about  10  ft.  from  the  floor,  runs  a  handsome  car- 
ved wooden  wainscoting  with  medallions  representing  scenes  from  the 
lives  of  SS.  Ignatius  and  Francis  Xavier,  by  Battrscheidt  (d.  1745)  and 
Van  der  Voort  (d.  1737).  The  high-altar  was' designed  by  Ruhens.  Over 
the  altar  the  three  following  paintings  are  exhibited  alternately :  C.  Schul 
(d.  1655),  Madonna  enthroned;  Seghers,  Christ  on  the  Cross;  Wappevs,  The 
Virgin  interceding.  The  statues  of  SS.  Francis  Borgia  and  Francis  Xavier 
are  by  A.  Quellin,  those  of  SS.  Ignatius  and  Aloysius  by  A.  Colyns  de 
Xole  (i7th  cent.).  The  Virgin's  Chapel  still  contains  some  specimens  of 
the  marble  decoration  of  the  building  of  1618.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Francis 
Xavier  contains  a  painting  by  Seghers ,  St.  Francis  kneeling  before  the 
Virgin.     In  the  Sacristy  is  a  handsome  ivory  crucifix  of  the  17th  century. 

The  building  to  the  W.  of  the  church  contains  the  Municipal 
Library,  which  is  open  to  the  public  on  weekdays,  9.30  to  4.  In 
front  of  it  is  a  monument  to  Hendrik  Conscience,  the  Flemish  no- 
velist (d.  1883),  by  Fr.  Joris. 

The  LoNGUE  Rub  Neuye  leads  hence  to  the  right  to  the*Bourse, 
or  Exchange  (PI.  C,  2),  erected  in  1869-72  on  the  site  of  a  fine 
late-Gothic  structure  of  1531  (by  Dom.  van  Waghemakere'),  which 
was  burned  down  in   1858.     The   new  edifice ,   designed  by  Jos. 


1  5U     Route  15.  ANTWERP.  St.  Jacques. 

Schadde,  is  in  the  same  style  as  its  predecessor,  but  on  a  much 
larger  scale,  and  has  an  entrance  on  each  of  the  four  sides.  The 
hall,  which  is  covered  with  glass ,  is  56  yds.  long  and  44  yds. 
wide,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  double  arcade  borne  by  68  columns, 
opening  towards  the  centre  in  Moorish-Gothic  trefoil  arches.  Above 
these  is  a  gallery  borne  by  38  columns,  adjoining  which  are  the  Tri- 
bunal de  Commerce  and  the  Telegraph  Office.  The  ceiling  is  borne 
by  an  elegant  wrought-iron  framework ,  and  the  walls  are  adorned 
with  the  arms  of  Antwerp,  the  Belgian  lion,  and  the  arms  of  the  dif- 
ferent provinces  of  Belgium.  In  the  angles  between  the  arches  are 
the  arms  of  the  chief  sea-faring  nations.  Business-hours  1-3  p.m., 
during  which  only  the  galleries  are  accessible  (ascent  next  the  S. 
portal) ;   at  other  times  the  place  is  used  as  a  public  thoroughfare. 

The  *Churcli  of  St.  Jacques  (PI.  C,  3),  in  the  late-Gothic 
style,  was  begun  in  1491  from  designs  by  Her.  van  Wayhemakere 
and  carried  on  after  his  death  by  Dom.  van  Wayhemakere,  but 
was  still  unfinished  in  1526  when  the  work  was  discontinued.  In 
1602  after  the  subsidence  of  the  religious  troubles  of  the  latter 
half  of  the  16th  century,  the  works  were  resumed,  and  the  church 
completed  in  1656  (the  cliief  portal  being  added  in  1694).  It  is  a 
cruciform  structure,  flanked  with  chapels  on  each  side  and  in  the 
choir  also,  and  is  the  principal  church  in  Antwerp  after  the  cathe- 
dral, which  it  far  surpasses  in  the  sumptuousness  of  its  monuments 
and  decorations.  The  wealthiest  and  most  distinguished  families  at 
Antwerp  here  possessed  their  burial  vaults,  private  chapels ,  and 
altars,  the  most  interesting  of  which  is  that  of  the  family  of  Rubens, 
in  the  choir,  at  the  back  of  the  high-altar. 

The  principal  entrance  is  on  the  S.  side  ,  in  the  Longue  Hue 
Neuve  (open  for  the  inspection  of  the  works  of  art  between  12  and 
4p.m. ;  sacristan's  fee  Ifr.  for  each  pers. ;  visitors  knock  at  the  door). 

The  Interiob,  which  is  of  harmonious  proportions,  is  lighted 
by  fine  stained-glass  windows,  both  ancient  and  modern,  the  for- 
mer having  been  chiefly  executed  by  A.  van  Diepenbeeck  and  Van 
der  Veeken,  the  latter  by  J.  Capronnier  (p.  87). 

S.  AisLB.  "We  begin  to  the  W.  1st  Chapel:  A.  van  Dyck,  St. 
George  and  the  dragon  ;  opposite,  wooden  figure  of  St.  Sebastian,  by 
A.  Quellin.  The  reliefs,  representing  scenes  from  the  Passion,  in 
this  chapel  and  several  of  those  following  and  also  in  the  N.  aisle 
are  by  J.  Geefs,  J.  de  Cuyper,  and  L.  de  Cuyper.  —  2nd  Chapel : 
M.  de  Vos,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony.  Monument  of  the  Burgo- 
master Van  Ertborn  (p.  156),  with  a  Madonna  by  Guido  Reni.  — 
3rd  Chapel :  E.  Quellin,  St.  Rochus  cured  of  the  plague,  1660.  This 
and  the  two  following  chapels  contain  twelve  small  scenes  from  the 
life  of  St.  Rochus,  executed  in  1517.  —  4th  Chapel:  Altarpiece 
and  pictures  opposite,  by  O.  Vaenius.  —  5th  Chapel:  Fr.  Floris, 
Women  occupied  with  the  Infant  Christ  and  St.  John ;  opposite, 
monument  of  Churchwarden  Nicolas  Mertens  (d.  1586)  and  his 


St.  Jacques.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.      151 

wife,  with  portraits,  by  Ambr.  Francken.  —  6tli  Chapel :  M.  Coxie, 
Baptism  of  Christ;  Marten  de  Fo5,  Martyrdom  of  St.  James,  the 
w  ings  by  Francken  (^Daughter  of  Jairus,  Canaaiiite  woman  ;  on  the 
back,  Gethsemane). 

Traxsbpt.  Marble  statues  of  the  Apostles  by  Van  der  Voort^ 
Kerricx,  De  Cuyper,  and  others.  To  the  right  and  left  at  the  beginning 
of  the  choir :  Resurrection  by  E.  Dujardin  (18621,  and  Assumption 
by  Boeyermans  (1671).  In  the  S.  arm  :  Elevation  of  the  Cross ,  a 
high- relief  by  Van  der  Voort,  1719.  Above  the  portal:  Honthorst, 
Christ  expelling  the  money-changers  from  the  Temple ,  the  wings 
by  De  Grayer. 

Choir.  The  rococo  high-altar  is  by  Ykens,  the  ornamentation  by 
Kerricx,  L.  Willemssens.  etc.  The  choir -stalls  were  carved  by  the 
older  and  younger  Quellin.  The  stained-glass  window  is  by  Tan 
Diepenbeeck,  1644.  —  The  S.  transept  is  adjoined  by  the  — 

Chapel  of  thb  Host,  containing  a  marble  altar,  fine  marble 
screen,  and  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  by  P.  Verbruggen  ,  L. 
Willemssens,  and  Kerricx.  The  pictures  are  by  P.  Thys  (Last  Supper  ; 
altarpiece),  E.  van  Donk  (Peter's  repentance),  Jan  Massys  (Madonna 
and  Child),  etc.  The  *Stained  Glass  of  1626  (to  the  right  of  the 
altar)  represents  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  giving  his  horse  to  the  priest 
carrying  the  monstrance,  with  the  donors  below. 

Retro-Cholr.  —  By  the  wall,  Confessionals  by  A.  Quellin, 
Willemssens ,  and  others.  Above  the  first  of  these :  Goubau 
(d.  1618),  Dead  body  of  Christ;  on  either  side  of  the  second  :  M. 
de  Vos ,  Ecce  Homo  (1562),  and  Verlinde,  Madonna  (1870).  —  1st 
Chapel :  H.  van  Balen  the  Elder,  Trinity ;  opposite,  *Calling  of  St. 
Peter  to  the  Apostleship  (Peter  giving  Christ  the  fish  with  the  piece 
of  money),  ascribed  to  A.  van  Noort  (perhaps  by  Rubens).  Below, 
after  Van  Dyck,  Christ  on  the  Cross  (original  in  the  Museum).  — 
On  the  pier  opposite  :  Corn.  Schut,  Mary  weeping  over  the  body  of 
Christ.  —  2nd  Chapel :  Seghers,  St.  Ivo.  —  3rd  Chapel :  Seghers, 
Appearing  of  Christ.  Van  der  Voort ,  Christ  scourged  ,  a  group  in 
marble.  Above  the  next  door  :  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  Nativity,  and 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  winged  picture  by  A.  Janssens  (d.  1631). 

4th.  *Rubens  Chapel.  The  tomb  of  the  illustrious  painter  (d. 
30th  May,  1640,  at  the  age  of  64)  was  covered  by  a  new  tombstone 
in  1755 ,  bearing  a  long  inscription  in  Latin.  The  altarpiece  of 
this  chapel  is  a  fine  work  by  Rubens. 

The  Holy  Child  is  represented  sitting  in  the  lap  of  the  Virgin  in 
an  arbour,  and  worshipped  by  St.  Bonaventura.  Behind  the  Madonna  is 
St.  Jerome,  while  on  the  other  side  is  St.  George  with  three  holy  women. 
According  to  tradition  these  saints  are  all  family  portraits.  St.  Jerome 
is  said  to  be  the  father  of  Rubens.  St.  George  the  painter  himself,  and  the 
three  women  his  two  wives  and  Mademoiselle  Lunden ,  whose  portrait 
in  the  National  Gallery  at  London  is  famous  under  the  name  of  the 
'Chapeau  de  paille\  The  tradition  is,  however,  doubtful,  for  the  exe- 
cution of  the  work  differs  from  that  usual  with  Rubens  in  his  later  years, 
in  which  alone  the  portraits  could  have  been  painted. 


152      Route  15.  ANTWERP.  St.  Jacques. 

The  marble  statue  of  the  Virgin,  the  two  angels,  and  the  upper 
portion  of  the  altar ,  are  probably  the  work  of  Luc.  Fayd'herbe 
(d,  16941,  with  whom  Rubens  was  intimate.  On  the  right  and 
left  are  the  monuments  of  two  female  descendants  of  Rubens,  exe- 
cuted by  W.  Geefs  in  1839  and  1850. 

Above  the  next  door:  Th.  Rombouts,  Betrothal  of  St.  Catharine. 

—  5th  Chapel :  Jordaens ,  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  among  persons  sick 
of  the  plague.  —  6th  Chapel :  Van  Lint,  St.  Peter  taking  leave  of 
St.  Paul;  opposite,  P.  Thys,  Abraham's  Sacrifice.  —  7th  Chapel: 
Victor  Wolfvoet,  Visitation  (1639).  Moons,  Christ  at  Emmaus  (1843). 

—  On  the  wall  of  the  choir :  Peter  T//i/s,  The  Trinity. 

The  Chapkl  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  N.  transept,  contains 
stained  glass  by  7)e  ia^aer  (1641);  also,  on  the  altar,  A.  Quellinthe 
Elder,  Pieta,  a  small  painted  sculpture  in  wood,  1650;  A.  Francken, 
Entombment,  and  the  Risen  Saviour  appearing  to  Mary  Magdalene. 

N.  Traxsept.  Above  the  portal,  J.  Honthorst,  Christ  among 
the  Doctors  in  the  Temple;  on  the  wings,  Seghers,  Annunciation, 
and  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  Thys,  Assumption  of  the  Virgin; 
E.  Quellin  the  Younger,  Death  of  St.  Francis.  —  On  the  pillar, 
C.  Schut,  Body  of  Christ  on  the  knees  of  the  Virgin. 

N.  Aisle.  2nd  Chapel,  on  the  E.:  M.  de  Vos ,  Glory,  a  winged 
picture ;  Peter  van  den  Avont,  Madonna  and  the  Child  in  a  garden, 
surrounded  by  angels;  stained  glass  representing  the  Last  Supper, 
with  portraits  of  the  donors,  1538.  —  3rd  Chapel :  *B.  v.  Orley,  Last 
Judgment ;  on  the  wings  St.  George  and  the  Burgomaster  Rockox 
(p.  149),  the  donor  of  the  picture,  with  his  three  sons;  and  St.  Ca- 
tharine and  the  wife  of  the  burgomaster,  with  their  ten  daughters. 

—  4th  Chapel :  Van  Balen,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  with  Fliglit  into 
Egypt,  Crucifixion,  and  Nativity  below  in  grisaille;  on  the  wings 
Annunciation  and  Visitation  ;  Ryckaert,  Portrait  of  J.  Doncker  and 
his  wife  (above  their  tomb).  —  5th  Chapel :  M.  de  Vos,  Mary  entering 
the  Temple.  —  6th  Chapel :  Tomb  of  the  Spanish  general  Del  Pico 
(d.  1693).  —  In  the  nave,  *Pulpitby  WiZ^emssens,  with  the  Evange- 
lists and  allegorical  figures  of  Faith,  Religion,  etc.  (1675). 

The  Institut  de  Commerce  (PI.  C,  3),  in  the  Rue  du  Chene,  to 
the  S.  of  the  church  of  St.  Jacques,  contains  a  commercial  museum. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  Longue  Rue  Neuve  rises  the  new  Flemish 
Theatre,  or  Schouwburg  (PI.  C,  3),  erected  by  Dens  in  1869-72. 
Liscription  on  the  W.  side ,  towards  the  Place  de  la  Commune : 
*Vrede  baart  kunst,  kunst  veredelt  het  volk'  (peace  begets  art,  art 
ennobles  the  people). 

At  the  Place  de  la  Commune  (PI.  C,  3),  on  the  N.E.  side  of 
which  stands  the  Athtnee  Royal,  by  Dens,  completed  in  1884,  we 
reach  the  ring  of  spacious  streets  constructed  on  the  site  of  the  ram- 
parts that  formerly  encircled  the  old  town  and  were  removed  in 
1859.  To  the  N.  runs  the  Avenue  du  Commerce,  with  a  Scandinavian 


Royal  Palace.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.     153 

Lutheran  Church,  in  the  GotMc  style  (near  the  Capuchin  church, 
p.  149);  to  the  S.  are  the  Avenue  desArts.  the  Avenue  de  V Industrie., 
and  the  Avenue  du  Sud,  leading  to  the  South  Station.  These 
avenues  are  all  shaded  with  rows  of  trees. 

Near  the  beginning  of  the  Avenue  des  Arts,  to  the  W.,  is 
the  small  Place  Tenters  (PI.  C,  3) .  emhellished  with  a  statue  of 
David  Tenters,  by  Ducaju,  erected  in  1867.  The  short  Rue  Leys, 
containing  the  house  (No.  12)  formerly  occupied  by  Hendrik  Leys, 
the  painter,  leads  hence  to  the  W.  to  the  Place  de  Meir  (see  below). 

Farther  on,  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Avenue  des  Arts,  is  the 
Avenue  Marie-Therese,  leading  to  the  Park  (p.  168). 

At  the  end  of  the  Avenue  des  Arts,  to  the  right,  stands  the 
National  Bank  (PI.  C,  5),  with  its  round  corner-turrets,  designed 
by  Beyart,  who  has  employed  the  Flemish  Renaissance  style  in  this 
case  also  (comp.  p.  79).  The  architectural  details  are  admirably 
executed.  In  time  of  war  the  building  is  intended  to  serve  as  the 
depository  of  the  national  treasury.  In  front  of  the  bank  is  a  foiin- 
tain.    Behind  it  is  the  Place  Le'opold  (see  below). 

At  the  end  of  the  Avexue  de  l'Ixdustrie  (Pi.  C,  5),  on  the 
E.  side,  is  the  new  Palace  of  Justice,  erected  by  Baeckelmans  in 
the  French  style,  and  resembling  the  chateaux  of  the  period  of 
Louis  XIII. 

Parallel  with  the  Longue  Rue  Neuve  (p.  149)  runs  the  street 
called  the  Place  de  Meir  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  one2of  the  broadest  in 
Antwerp,  formed  by  the  arching  over  of  a  canal,  and  flanked  with 
handsome  new  houses,  most  of  them  in  the  baroque  or  rococo  style. 
No.  50  is  the  Royal  Palace,  in  that  style,  erected  in  1755  from  plans 
by  Jan  Pieter  van  Baurscheidt,  for  a  wealthy  citizen  of  Antwerp. 
No.  52,  a  little  farther  to  the  E.,  is  the  House  of  Ruhens's  Parents, 
erected  in  1567,  and  restored  in  1854,  a  richly  decorated  building 
with  two  Corinthian  columns  and  a  bust  of  Rubens  on  the  top.  The 
only  remaining  part  of  the  house  which  the  illustrious  painter  built 
for  himself  in  1612.  and  where  he  died  on  30th  May,  1640,  is  a 
handsome  portico  with  sculptures  by  Fayd'herbe,  now  in  the  garden 
of  a  house  to  the  left  (No.  7)  in  the  neighbouring  Rue  Rubens  (visi- 
tors admitted). — The  Rue  Leys  (see  above)  forms  a  prolongation  of 
the  Place  de  Meir  and  leads  to  the  Place  Teniers  (see  above). 

The  Rue  des  Tanneurs  diverging  to  the  S.  from  the  Place  de 
Meir  leads  to  the  French  Theatre  Royal  (PI.  C,  4),  completed  in 
1834.  —  Adjacent  is  the  Botanic  Garden  (PI.  C,  4),  which  contains 
a  palm-house  and  a  statue  of  P.  Coudenberg ,  an  Antwerp  botanist 
of  the  16th  cent.,  by  De  Cuyper. 

In  the  vicinity  is  the  St.  Elizabeth  Hospital.  —  The  small  Place 
Leopold  (PL  C,  4)  is  embellished  with  an  Equestrian  Statue  of 
Leopold  I.,  in  bronze,  designed  by  J.  Geefs.  The  stone  pedestal 
bears  a  double  inscription,  in  Flemish  and  French.  —  We  now  re- 
turn, passing  the  National  Bank,  to  the  Avenue  des  Arts  (see  above). 


154     Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Augustine  Church. 

The  Maison  pes  Orphblines,  or  girls'  orphanage,  Longue  Rue 
de  I'Hopital  29,  was  built  in  1552.  Above  the  door  is  a  relief  re- 
presenting a  school  of  the  10th  century. 

The  Gothic  Church  of  St.  George  (PI.  C,  4,  5) ,  by  Sluys, 
consecrated  in  1853,  witli  its  two  lofty  spires,  contains  fine  mural 
^Paintings  by  Guffens  and  Siverts  (p.  79),  executed  in  1859-G8. 
The  subjects  are  the  Childhood  and  Youth  of  Christ,  down  to  the 
Entry  into  Jerusalem  (right  aisle,  beginning  at  the  choir);  the  Suf- 
ferings of  Christ,  the  Resurrection,  Ascension,  Descent  of  the  Uoly 
Ghost  (left  aisle,  beginning  at  the  door);  Christ  with  the  Virgin, 
Joseph,  St.  George,  and  the  Apostles  and  Evangelists  (in  the  choir). 


From  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Place  Vertc  (p.  141)  diverges  a 
wide  new  street,  named  the  Rue  Nationale  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  which 
unites  the  centre  of  the  old  town  with  the  growing  quarter  in  the 
S.AV.  part  of  the  new  town.  Near  the  beginning  of  it  is  a  monu- 
ment (PI.  B,  4)  to  the  memory  of  Theod.  van  Ryswyck,  a  Flemish 
poet  who  died  in  1849. 

A  little  to  the  E.  is  the  Church  'of  the  Augustines  (PI.  B,  4), 
erected  in  1615,  which  possesses  a  large  altarpiece  with  numerous 
figures,  by  Rubens,  representing  the  'Nuptials  of  St.  Catharine 
with  the  Infant  Jesus'.  This  excellent  work  is  unfortunately  in  bad 
preservation. 

Also,  to  the  right  of  the  principal  entrance:  Cels  (1778),  Elizabeth 
and  Blary,  Lens  (d.  1872),  Presentation  in  the  Temple.  On  the  left:  Van 
Brie^  Baptism  of  St.  Augustine.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  the  Martyrdom 
of  St.  Apollonia  as  an  altarpiece,  by  Jordaens;  to  the  left,  Van  Bifck, 
The  Vision  of  St.  Augustine.  The  high -altar,  over  which  is  the  above- 
mentioned  work  of  Rubens,  is  by  Verbruggen.  On  the  right  of  the  choir 
a  modern  chapel  in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  frescoes  by  Bellemans. 

A  side-street,  diverging  to  the  W.  from  the  Rue  Nationale, 
leads  to  the  small  Place  du  Vendredi,  in  the  S.W.  angle  of  which 
is  the  *Musee  Plantin  -  Moretus  (PI.  B,  4),  established  in  the 
house  of  the  celebrated  printer  Christopher  Plantin  (1514-89),  who 
set  up  his  printing-office  at  Antwerp  in  1555.  From  1579  down 
to  the  present  day  the  business  was  carried  on  in  this  building, 
at  first  by  Plantin  himself,  and  afterwards  by  the  family  of  his  son- 
in-law  Moretus.  After  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent,  tlie  operations 
of  the  firm  were  confined  to  the  printing  of  mass  and  prayer-books, 
for  which  Plantin  had  received  a  monopoly  from  Philip  II.  for 
the  dominions  of  the  Spanish  crown.  When  this  privilege  was 
withdrawn  in  the  year  1800,  the  printing-office  was  temporarily 
closed,  and  afterwards  it  was  only  used  at  intervals  down  to  1875, 
when  the  building  with  its  antique  furniture,  tapestry,  paintings 
(90  portraits,  including  14  by  Rubens  and  2  by  Van  Dyck),  and 
other  collections,  was  purchased  by  the  city  of  Antwerp.  The 
house  therefore  now  presents  a  unique  picture  of  the  dwelling  and 
contiguous  business-premises  of  a  Flemish  patrician  of  the  end  of 


St.  Andrew's  Church.       ANTWERP.  15.  Route.     155 

the  16th  century.  Adm.  daily  10-4,  Sat.  excepted,  1  fr.  Interest- 
ing catalogue  by  Max  Rooses,  1  fr. 

Ground  Floor.  In  the  vestibule  we  turn  to  the  right  at  the  foot  of 
the  staircase,  and  enter  Room  I,  Vhich  contains  some  line  old  Flemish 
tapestry  and  a  tortoise-shell  table.  —  Room  II.  contains  several  admii-- 
able  family-portraits.  To  the  right,  above  the  modern  mantel-piece  in 
the  Renaissance  style,  hangs  a  portrait  of  Plantin  by  Frons  Fourbus  the 
Elder  (.1578),  which  served  as  a  model  for  the  other  portrait,  by  Rubens., 
to  the  right  of  the  door  of  exit.  Fubens  also  painted  the  portraits  of 
Jeanne  Riviere,  Plantings  wife;  of  Martina  Plantin  (by  the  window);  of  John 
Moretus,  son-in-law  of  Plantin  (d.  1010);  and  of  Adriana  Gras,  Arias  Mon- 
tanus,  Justus  Lipsius,  Abraham  Ortelius,  and  P.  Plantin.  Most,  however,  are 
merely  school-pieces.  On  the  exit-wall  are  two  sketches  by  Rubens-.,  also 
two  fine  portraits  by  Thos.  Bosschaeri,  surnamed  WiUebovds:  Balthasar 
Moretus,  under  whom  the  printing-office  enjoyed  a  new  lease  of  success 
and  fame  in  1618-41,  and  Gevartius,  the  Town  Clerk,  a  friend  of  Moretus 
and  Rubens.  In  the  centre,  under  glass:  Drawings,  Title-pages,  Vig- 
nettes, partly  by  Rubens,  who,  as  appears  from  receipts  which  are  still 
preserved  (in  the  middle  of  the  window-wall),  frequently  drew  designs 
for  printers;  also  Erasmus  Quellin,  Bernard  van  Orley.,  Marten  de  Vos., 
and  others.  Two  fine  cabinets  of  the  17th  century.  —  Room  III.  also  con- 
tains portraits.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  :  Balthasar  Moretus  on  his 
death-bed.  by  Bosschaert  ( Willebords);  ^lagdalena  Plantin  and  her  hus- 
band, Gilles  Beys,  by  an  unknown  painter.  Among  the  other  portraits 
are  several  copies  hyRubens  of  Italian  works,  including  Pope  Leo  X.  after 
Raphael.  In  the  centre:  3Iiniatures  from  the  10th  to  the  16th  cent.; 
specimens  of  Plantin's  printing.  Above  the  mantel-piece:  Copy  of  the 
large  boar-hunt  by  Rubens,  now  at  Munich.  —  We  now  cross  the  med- 
iaeval-looking Court,  where  we  see  numerous  repetitions  of  Plantings 
motto,  'Lahore  et  constantia.'  One  side  is  entirely  covered  by  the  bran- 
ches of  an  aged  vine.  Below  the  arcade,  to  the  right,  are  the  Sale 
Rooms,  with  a  separate  entrance  from  the  street;  they  are  embellished 
with  old  Flemish  tapestry  and  oaken  panelling  (partly  restored).  One 
of  them  contains  a  painted  spinet  of  the  17th  cent.  (St.  Cecilia,  after  Ru- 
bens). On  the  other  side  of  the  court  is  the  Printing  Office  ,  where 
everything  is  left  arranged  as  if  work  were  to  be  resumed  to-morrow. 
We  first  enter  the  Proof-readers''  Room,  where  old  proof-sheets,  first  im- 
pressions, etc.,  are  still  lying  on  the  desks  and  benches.  Next  to  this  are 
the  Proprietor's  Office  ,  with  gilt-leather  hangings ,  and  the  so-called 
Room  of  Justus  Lipsius.  with  Spanish  leather  hangings,  where  the  dis- 
tinguished critic  and  philologist  is  said  to  have  been  lodged  when  visit- 
ing his  publisher  Moretus.  A  passage  leads  hence  to  the  Type  Room,  with 
old  matrices,  etc.,  and  to  the  Composing  and  Printing  Room,  by  the 
exit-wall  of  which  stand  two  presses  of  the  16th  century. 

We  now  return  to  the  vestibule  and  ascend  the  stairs  to  the  First 
Floor.  Two  rooms  here  contain  specimens  of  the  work  of  several  famous 
printing-offices ,  some  Chinese  porcelain ,  and  a  small  library,  with  va- 
rions  interesting  autographs  in  glass  cases  by  the  window-wall.  Two  other 
rooms  contain  a  collection  of  wood-cuts  and  a  coloured  view  of  Antwerp 
in  1565.  We  may  next  visit  the  library,  and  a  room  containing  the  titles 
to  the  different  privileges  enjoyed  by  Plantin.  In  other  rooms  are  pre- 
served copper-plates  after  Rubens,  Jordaens,  and  Van  Di/ck,  and  numerous 
fine  specimens  of  early  printing.     There  is  also  a  type-foundry,  etc. 

A  little  to  the  S.,  but  nearer  the  Rue  Nationale,  stands  the 
Church  of  St.  Andrew  (PL  B,  4),  a  late-Gothic  edifice  of  1514-23, 
containing  several  works  of  art. 

The  pulpit,  in  carved  wood,  is  by  Van  Geel  and  Van  Hool  (18th  cent.). 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Andrew  are  represented  in  a  boat  on  the  sea,  from 
which  they  are  summoned  by  the  Saviour;  life-size  figures,  finely  exe- 
cuted. In  the  N.  Chapel  of  the  Choir:  Govaerts,  Flight  into  Egypt; 
Seghers,  St.  Anna  instructing  the  Virgin.     Choir:    0.  Vaenius,  Crucifixion 


156     Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Museum. 

of  St.  Andrew;  Erasmus  Quellin  the  Younger^  Guardian  angel  of  youth. 
S.  Chapel  of  the  Choir:  Franck,  Last  Supper  (altarpiece);  Seghers, 
Raising  of  Lazarus;  E.  Quellin,  Christ  at  Eramaus;  E.  Quellin^  Holy 
Family.  By  the  choir  are  two  statues,  (left)  St.  Peter  by  A.  Quellin  (he 
Younger,  and  (right)  St.  Paul  by  ZielensT  In  the  Tr.\nsepts  several  modern 
pictures,  by  Verlat,  Van  Eycken,  and  others.  Side-altar  on  the  S. :  Pepyn, 
Crucifixion;  on  the  N.,  Franck,  St.  Anna  teaching  children,  a  work  with 
numerous  figures.  The  aisles  contain  a  number  of  large  modern  pictures. 
On  a  pillar  in  the  S.  Transept  is  a  small  medallion-portrait  of  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots  (by  Pourbns),  with  an  inscription  in  memory  of  that  \in- 
fortunate  sovereign,  and  of  two  of  her  ladies-in-waiting  who  are  interred 
in  this  church. 

To  the  S.  the  Rue  Nationale  is  continued  "by  the  liue  du  Peuple 
(PI.  B,  5).  In  the  Place  Marnix,  to  the  E.  of  the  Rue  du  Peuple, 
a  monument  by  Winders  was  erected  in  1883  to  commemorate  the 
abolition  of  the  river  dues  of  the  Schelde  in  1863,  an  event  to 
\vhi(;h  Antwerp  owes  most  of  her  present  prosperity  (see  p.  140).  — 
The  Rue  du  Peuple  terminates  at  the  Place  du  Peuple ,  in  which 
rises  the  imposing  new  — 

'^Iffuseum  (^Palais  des  Beaux- Arts;  PI.  B,  5),  erected  in  1879- 
1890  from  plans  by  Wmders  and  VanDyck,in  the  Greek  Renaissance 
style,  with  suggestions  of  the  baroque.  The  building  is  in  the 
form  of  a  massive  rectangle,  enclosing  six  inner  courts.  Tlie  main 
entrance,  in  the  W.  facade,  is  by  a  portico  supported  by  four 
colossal  Corinthian  columns,  and  flanked  on  the  upper  story  by 
loggie.  The  Attic  story  is  embellished  with  allegorical  figures  and 
medallions  by  Dupuis,  De  Pleyn,  Ducaju,  and  Fabri.  The  horizontal 
line  of  the  upper  cornice  is  interrupted  at  the  corners  by  pylon- 
shaped  pedestals,  which  are  to  support  groups  of  statuary  by  ViriQOtte. 
The  side-walls  of  the  museum  have  also  not  yet  received  their 
decoration.  —  On  the  ground-floor,  in  the  left  wing,  are  the 
sculptures,  in  the  right  wing,  the  Rubens  Collection  ;  on  the  upper 
floor  is  the  picture  gallery.  Adm.  daily  9-5  (10-4  in  winter),  Sun. 
and  Thurs.  free,  other  days  1  fr.  Catalogue  (in  French)  of  the  paint- 
ings and  sculptures,  by  Van  Lerius,  II/2  fr. ;  smaller  Flemish  cata- 
logue 1  2  fr. ;  catalogue  of  the  Rubens  Collection  by  Rooses,  1  fr. 

In  the  Entrance  Hall,  opposite  the  entrance  are  four  busts  of 
former  members  of  the  Academy  (p.  148):  1030.  Wappers,  by  J.  de 
Braekeleer  ;  1149.  Herreyns,  by  Van  de  Veen;  1068.  Nic.  de  Keyset, 
by  Jos.  Geefs;  1024.  W.  Geefs,  by  himself. 

We  turn  first  to  the  left  and  enter  the  Sculpture  Gallery. 
The  Main  Room  is  divided  into  three  sections  by  coupled  columns 
projecting  from  each  side. 

Section  I.  1507.  Delay  the  Elder,  Girl  holding  a  shell  to  her 
ear;  1031.  De  Braekeleer,  Bust  of  L.  van  Kuyck;  1069.  Jos.  Geefs, 
Bust  of  Burgomaster  Fl.  van  Ertborn  (p.  158);  *1066.  Jos.  Geefs, 
Leander  drowned. 

Section  II.  To  the  right :  E.  Quellin  the  Younger,  *702.  St.  Se- 
bastian (wooden  statue),  703.  Caritas  Romana;  1523.  Jos.  Geefs, 
The  Fisher,  from  Goethe;   1518.  A.  Dumont,   Cupid,  in  bronze; 


Museum.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.      157 

1039.  Deckers,  The  blind  man,  group  in  bronze  ;  *10S5.  Lamheaux, 
The  kiss,  Mghly  realistic ;  W.  Geefs,  Genovefa  of  Brabant;  1517, 
Drake,  Medallion-portrait  of  himself.  —  To  the  left,  chiefly  busts  : 
1630.  Kiss,  by  himself;  1540.  Rauch,  by  Rietschel ;  1033.  F.  de 
Braekeleer,  by  J.  J.  de  Braekeleer  (terracotta);  *1038.  Deckers, 
Education  of  Bacchus;  1522.  Bust  of  W.  Geefs,  by  himself;  1116. 
Van  Lerius,  by  Pecher. 

Section  III.  In  the  middle  :  1060.  Ducaju,  King  Leopold  II.  of 
Belgium ;  *1529.  Kiss,  Amazon  attacked  by  a  panther,  reduced 
marble  replica  of  the  group  at  the  museum  in  Berlin;  *1054.  De 
Rudder,  The  nest,  realistic.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  rear-wall :  1115. 
Pecher,  Colossal  marble  bust  of  Rubens,  on  an  elaborate  bronze 
pedestal,  erected  in  1877  in  honour  of  the  three  hundredth  anni- 
versary of  the  birth  of  the  great  master;  1056.  Derigne,  Maiden's 
prayer  ;  1519.  G.  J.  Thomas,  Bust  of  A.  Dumont,  the  sculptor  (ter- 
racotta). —  In  the  centre  of  the  room  connecting  this  hall  with  the 
Rubens  rooms  (see  below):  *1516.  Drake,  Large  bronze  vase, 
with  reliefs  representing  human  life. 

The  corner-room  and  eight  rooms  and  two  side-halls  on  the 
ground-floor  of  the  right  wing  are  devoted  to  the  Rubens  Collection 
(L'Oeuvre  grave  de  Rubens),  founded  in  18T7  (see  above)  by  the 
city  of  Antwerp  and  the  Belgian  state.  It  contains  reproductions 
(engravings,  etchings,  woodcuts,  photographs,  etc.)  of  nearly  all 
the  extant  works  of  Rubens  in  the  various  galleries,  churches,  etc., 
and  affords  a  most  instructive  insight  into  the  wonderful  versatility 
and  inexhaustible  powers  of  the  great  master. 

Vpwards  of  1100  plates  etc,  are  here  exhibited,  each  hearing  an  ex- 
planatory extract  from  Rooses'3  catalogue  (p.  156j.  —  Kos,  1-476  include 
in  six  sections  the  religious  and  ecclesiastical  pictures:  general  and 
symbolical  representations,  scenes  from  the  Old  and  ^ew  Testaments, 
paintings  from  churches.  Madonnas  (in  which  the  portrait  of  Isabella 
Brandt,  Rubens's  first  wife,  frequently  occurs),  saints,  martyrs,  etc,  Xext 
follow  paintings  of  secular  subjects:  mythological  (from  Ovid)  and 
historical  representations,  including  scenes  from  the  lives  of  Marie  de 
Medecis  and  Henri  IV.  of  France  (originals  in  the  Louvre),  and  James  I. 
of  Great  Britain;  allegories;  genre-scenes;  portraits  (81(3-981^;  hunting 
scenes;  landscapes  CKos.  1001-1042):  and  a  series  of  examples  without 
numbers,  —  The  following  rooms  are  still  empty. 

From  the  entrance-hall  (p.  156)  a  portal  leads  to  the  Staircase 
(Vestibule De  Keyser),  which  also  communicates  with  the  sculpture- 
gallery  and  the  Rubens  rooms  by  means  of  a  central  portal  with 
caryatides  and  side-doors.  The  large  vestibule  is  handsomely 
proportioned,  and  its  walls  are  clad  with  coloured  marble.  The 
chief  decorations,  however,  are  the  paintings  (on  canvas)  by  A'/cai^^e 
de  Keyser,  the  subjects  being  taken  from  the  history  of  the  Antwerp 
School  of  Art  (best  viewed  from  the  top  of  the  staircase). 

In  the  principal  painting  over  the  entrance,  and  in  the  large  scenes 
on  the  right  and  left  wall,  the  whole  of  the  Antwerp  masters  are  assembled, 
52  in  the  first,  and  42  in  each  of  the  other  two.  In  the  centre  of  the  prin- 
cipal picture  is  Antwerpia  on  a  throne;  beneath  are  Gothic  and  Re- 
nais.<'ance   art;  to    the  left   Quinten    Massys    in    a    sitting   posture,   and 


158    Pioute  15. 


antwp:rp. 


Museum. 


Frans  Floria  standing;  above  Massys   is  a  group   of  the   architects  of  the 
cathedral   of  Antwerp-,    on    the   right   side   of  the   picture  Rubens  as   the 

principal  figure ;  in 


Eajrt 


M 


Iv 


II 


R 


S 

Modoni 


D 

Old 


Mas 


tors 
A 


iMnstorsi.  a  Modrnt Masters  j-jPorirailsj 


Vest 


front  of  him,  to  the 
left,  his  teacher 
(Jtho  Va>nius;  be- 
tween them  Jor- 
daens,  leaning  over 
the  balustrade,  in 
a  yellow  robe;  in 
front  of  Rubens  is 
Corn.  Schut,sitting 
on  the  steps;  next 
him  on  the  riglit, 
VanDyck,whopart- 
ly  bides  from  view 
David  Teniers  the 
Elder  in  a  blue 
dress;  in  the  centre 
of  the  first  bay 
Casp.  de  Grayer, 
then  Jan  Brueghel 
in  a  red  robe  etc., 
The  picture  to  our 
right  on  entering 
contains  figures  of 
painters  and  sculp- 
tors, that  to  the 
left  painters  and 
engravers.  The  six 
smaller  pictures, 
on  the  right  and 
left  of  the  princi- 
pal pieces,  are  in- 
tended to  embody 
the  various  influ- 
ences which  have 
affected  the  devel- 
opment of  Flemish 
art,  particularly 
those  which  eman- 
ated from  Italy 
(Raphael,  Michael 
Angelo,  etc.).  Six 
other  paintings  in- 
dicate the  appre- 
ciation with  which 
the  art  of  Brabant 
has  been  received 
at  Vienna,  London, 
Paris,  Amsterdam, 
Bologna, andRome. 
The  first  floor 
contains    i  r   the 


**PicTURK  Gallery.  The  Collection  of  Old  Masters  includes  755  pic- 
tures, many  of  them  collected  from  the  suppressed  monasteries  and 
churches  of  Antwerp,  while  others  have  been  brought  hither  from  the 
Hotel  deVille  and  the  Steen.  In  1840  the  Ikirgomaster  Van  Ertborn 
(p.  156)  bequeathed  his  collection  to  the  museum.  The  Musce  Mo- 
cler7ie,  or  Gitlkrij  of  Modern  Paintings  contains  about  200  canvases. 


Museum.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.     159 

The  collection  of  works  of  the  Flemish  school  is  ample  and 
excellent.  Both  the  early  painters,  who  are  usually  classed  as 
belonging  to  the  school  of  Van  Eyck,  and  the  later,  headed  by 
Rubens ,  are  admirably  represented.  Specially  noteworthy  are 
the  following  :  St.  Barbara,  by  Jan  van  Eyck  [No.  410);  the  Seven 
Sacraments,  by  Roger  van  der  M^eyden  (No.  393) ;  the  Entombment, 
by  Quinten  Massys  (No.  245);  the  Crucifixion,  by  Van  Dyck  (No. 
406) ;  St.  Francis,  by  Van  den  Hoeck  (No.  381)  ;  and,  among  the 
specimens  of  Rubens,  Christ  and  the  two  Malefactors  (No.  297),  the 
Portraits  of  Burgomaster  Rockox  and  his  wife  (wings  of  No.  307), 
the  Pieta  (No.  300),  and  St.  Theresa  (No.  299).  The  number  of 
other  than  Flemish  pictures  is  very  limited;  conspicuous  among 
them  are  a  Crucifixion  by  Antonello  da  Messina  (No.  4),  and  the 
Fisher-boy  by  Frans  Hals  (No.  188). 

The  historical  arrangement  of  the  pictures  has  been  attempted 
only  on  the  broadest  lines.  Rooms  A-K  contain  the  older  masters, 
Rooms N-P  the  so-called  historical  paintings,  i.e.  those  referring  to 
the  history  of  Antwerp,  and  Rooms  Q-W  the  modern  paintings. — 
"We  first  enter  — 

Room  J.  To  the  left,  709.  Rubens,  Jupiter  and  Antiope  (1614) ; 
472,  473.  Van  Thulden,  'Triumphal  Arch  of  Philip  1.',  painted  for 
the  illustrated  description  of  Rubenss  Triumphal  Arch  published 
by  Van  Thulden  and  Gervatius  in  1641;  318.  Rubens,  The  trium- 
phal car;  316,  317.  Rubens,  Two  sketches  of  triumphal  arches, 
executed  in  1635  for  the  city  of  Antwerp  on  the  occasion  of  the 
triumphal  entry  of  Ferdinand,  Archduke  of  Austria,  the  victor  of 
Nordlingen  and  Calloo.  Six  other  sketches  are  in  the  Hermitage  at 
St.  Petersburg.  One  of  the  arches  was  to  have  been  80  ft.  high 
and  60  ft.  wide.  185.  Ant.  Goubau,  Art-studies  in  Rome  (1662); 
315.  Rubens,  Descent  from  the  Cross,  a  small  replica  (1612)  of  the 
painting  in  the  cathedral. 

406.  Van  Dyck,  Christ  on  the  Cross,  a  reduced  imitation  of 
Rubens's  well-known  picture  (No.  313),  of  ghastly,  but  most 
effective  colouring ;  the  full  outline  of  the  body,  however,  hardly 
accords  with  the  suffering  expressed  by  the  features.  Human  re- 
signation is  admirably  expressed,  but  there  is  perhaps  a  deficiency 
in  divine  dignity. —  *307-310.  Rubens,  The  doubting  Thomas,  on 
the  vings  half-length  portraits  of  the  Burgomaster  Nic.  Rockox 
(p.  149)  and  his  wife  Adrienne  Perez.  The  portraits  are  far  finer 
than  the  figures  in  the  central  picture  (comp.  p.  xlviii). 

22.  Th.  Boeyermans,  The  visit;  748.  Van  Thulden,  Continence 
of  Scipio  ;  157.  Fr.  Francken  the  Younger,  The  works  of  mercy. 

Room  I.  (large  central  room).  To  the  left:  212.  A.  Janssens, 
Personification  of  the  Schelde  ;  172.  J.  Fyt,  Sleeping  hounds  with 
dead  game.  —  *299.  Rubens,  St.  Theresa  interceding  for  souls  in 
purgatory,  one  of  the  most  pleasing  pictures  of  the  artist's  later 


160      Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Museum. 

period;  405.  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  Caesar  Aloxander  vScaglia,  tlie 
Spanish  ambassador  at  the  Congress  of  Miinster;  *300.  Rubens,  The 
Virgin  instructed  by  St.  Anna,  a  very  attractive  group ;  colouring 
mellow  and  harmonious  (about  1630);  53.  C.  cle  Crayer,  Elijah  fed 
by  ravens. 

*2y8.  Rubens,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  painted  in  1624. 

This  gorgeous  and  imposing  composition,  on  a  similar  scale  with  the 
Elevation  of  the  Cross,  but  far  less  impressive,  contains  about  twenty 
figures  over  life-size,  besides  camels  and  horses  in  the  suite  of  the  Three 
Kings ,  crowded  into  the  picture  ,  while  the  sumptuousness  of  the  cos- 
tumes and  vessels  gives  the  whole  an  overloaded  efl'ect.  The  king  holding 
the  goblet  is  a  somewhat  awkward  figure.  It  must,  however,  be  ad- 
mitted that  the  work  exhibits  marvellous  freedom  and  boldness  of  out- 
line, great  skill  in  arrangement,  and  a  wonderful  variety  of  attitude  — 
all  genuine  attributes  of  Rubens.  The  picture  is  said  to  have  been  painted 
in  a  fortnight. 

480-482.  0.  van  Veen  (Oiho  Venius,  or  Vaenius,  p.  xlvi"),  three 
pictures:  Call  of  St.  Matthew,  Beneficence  of  St.  Nicholas,  St.  Nicholas 
saving  hi^  flock  from  perishing  by  famine.  The  composition,  co- 
louring, and  drawing  of  these  pictures  bear  testimony  to  the  paint- 
er's live  years'  residence  in  Italy.  —  *312.  22u&ens,  Holy  Family,  'La 
Vierge  au  perroqueV,  so  called  from  the  parrot  at  the  side,  one  of  his 
earlier  works,  presented  by  him  to  the  Guild  of  St.  Luke,  on  his 
election  as  president,  in  1631,  and  hardly  inferior  in  composition 
and  colouring  to  his  more  celebrated  works  (comp.  p.  xlvi).  — 
*313.  Rubens,  Christ  on  the  Cross  (frequently  copied  and  imitated), 

327.  Corn.  Schut,  Martyrdom  of  St.  George,  excellent  both  in 
composition  and  drawing;  the  saint  recalls  the  type  of  Christ;  673. 
P.  Gysels,  Still-life;  107.  Corn,  de  Vos,  St.  Norbert  receiving  the 
Host  and  Sacred  Vessels  that  had  been  hidden  during  a  time  of  war 
and  heresy;  659.  P.  de  Ryny,  Still-life;  479.  0.  van  Veen,  Zachseus 
in  the  sycamore-tree. 

*404.  Van  Dyck,  The  dead  Saviour  ('Pieta'),  painted  soon  after 
his  return  from  Italy  (1628). 

The  Virgin  is  represented  supporting  the  head  of  the  dead  Christ  on 
her  knees-,  St.  John  shows  the  wound  made  by  the  nail  in  the  left  hand 
to  two  angels,  one  of  whom  veils  his  face.  The  features  of  Christ  bear 
traces  of  intense  physical  sufl'ering.  St.  John  and  the  angel  whose  beau- 
tiful face  is  visible  wear  an  expression  of  profound  grief,  which  however 
they  can  still  express  in  words,  whereas  the  anguish  of  the  Virgin  is 
unutterable  ;  her  head  is  thrown  back ,  her  arms  wildly  extended.  The 
picture  is  chaste ,  the  colouring  subdued  (now  unfortunately  faded)  ;  yet 
the  tendency  of  the  master's  school  to  a  full  and  somewhat  sensual  out- 
line is  apparent,   although  the  work  does  not  altogether  lack  sentiment. 

**297.  Rubens ,  Christ  crucified  between  the  two  thieves  ('le 
coup  de  lance'),  a  very  celebrated  picture,  painted  for  the  church  of 
the  Franciscans  in  1020. 

This  picture  is  remarkable  for  its  dramatic  effect,  and  is  by  no  means 
deficient  in  sentiment.  Longinus,  the  Roman  officer,  mounted  on  a  grey 
horse  ,  is  piercing  the  side  of  the  Saviour  with  a  lance.  The  penitent 
thief,  a  grey-haired  man,  is  invoking  the  Saviour  for  the  last  time.  To 
the  left  in  the  foreground  stands  the  Virgin  3Iother,  whom  Mary  the  wife 


Museum.  ANTWERP.  7.5.  Route.      101 

of  Cleophas  in  vain  endeavours  to  console.  Farther  back,  St.  John  leans 
against  the  cross  of  the  impenitent  thief,  weeping.  Mary  Magdalene,  on 
her  knees  at  the  foot  of  the  Cross,  implores  Longinus  to  spare  the  sacred 
body  of  her  master.  This  is  considered  by  many  to  be  Rubens's  chef 
(foeuvre,  and  deserves  the  minutest  inspection.  There  is  no  inaccurate 
drawing  here,  as  in  almost  all  the  master's  other  works,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  composition  and  colouring  are  inimitable.  The  profile  of  the 
Magdalene  is  remarkably  beautiful,  expressive  of  horror  and  supplication, 
without  being  distorted.  The  whole  composition  is  a  striking  example 
of  that  marvellous  boldness  of  imagination  in  which  Rubens  is  unrivalled. 

"240.  N.  Maes,  Martyrdom  of  St.  George ;  508.  G.  Seghers^  Be- 
trothal of  the  Virgin. 

*300-304.  Rubens,  'Christ  li  la  Paille',  the  body  of  Christ  resting 
on  a  stone  bench  covered  with  straw,  partly  supported  by  Joseph  of 
Arimathaea,  and  mourned  over  by  the  Virgin,  with  St..  John  and 
Mary  Magdalene.  On  the  wings  (301,  303)  the  Virgin  and  Child, 
and  St.  John  the  Evangelist. 

This  most  interesting  altarpiece  (painted  about  1617)  shows  by  its 
carefully-executed  details  that  it  is  one  of  the  master's  earlier  works,  pro- 
duced before  he  had  adopted  his  bold  and  dashing  touch.  Here,  too,  we 
have  a  full  and  flowing  outline  and  admirable  ease  of  attitude,  but  there 
is  no  symptom  of  the  master's  subsequent  abuse  of  his  power,  in  pro- 
ducing overwhelming  masses  of  flesh  and  crowds  of  figures  in  forced 
postures.  A  happy  mean  is  here  observed,  and  there  is  greater  beauty  and 
sentiment  than  in  his  later  works.  The  colouring  is  delicate  and  harmo- 
nious.    The  weeping  Mary  Magdalene    is  a  particularly  expressive  figure. 

*104.  Corn,  de  Vos,  Portrait  of  a  functionary  (fcnap,  i.  e.  'knave') 
of  the  Corporation  of  St.  Luke,  painted  in  1620;  the  artistically 
executed  cups  of  gold  and  silver  on  the  table  at  which  he  stands 
were  gifts  to  the  Academy  from  princes  and  sovereigns.  —  171. 
J.  Fyt,  Two  eagles;  719.  F.  Snyders ,  Fishmonger's  shop;  358. 
Valentin,  Card-players ;  344.  D.  Tenters  the  Younger,  View  of  Va- 
lenciennes; bust  of  Philip  IV.  in  front;  314.  Rubens,  The  Trinity 
and  two  angels  with  instruments  of  torture.  —  A  door  to  the  right 
leads  into  Room  C.  (p.  164);  another,  opposite,  into  — 

Room  K.,  which  contains  chiefly  paintings  of  the  later  Flemish 
school  and  a  few  modern  pictures.  To  the  left :  384.  P.  Thys,  Ap- 
parition of  the  Virgin;  280.  Er.  Quellin,  A  saint;  39.  J.  Cossiers, 
Portrait  of  a  physician ;  1113,  1111.  Ommeganck,  Landscapes  with 
animals;  436.  Th.  van  Loon,  Assumption;  178.  H.  Govaerts,  Com- 
pany of  archers  unveiling  the  portrait  of  their  captain  J.  Ch.  de 
Cordes;491.  Verhaghen,  Hagar  and  Ishmael ;  490.  C.  J.  Verbruggen, 
Flowers;  1081.  W.  J.  Herreyns,  Crucifixion;  292.  Er.  Quellin,  Mi- 
racle of  St.  Hugo.  — "We  now  retrace  our  steps  through  Room  I.  to  — 

Room  H.  To  the  left:  381.  Van  den  Hoeck,  St.  Francis;  *401. 
Van  Dyck,  Christ  on  the  Cross,  at  the  foot  of  w^hich  are  St.  Catharine 
of  Siena  and  St.  Dominic,  with  a  stone  bearing  the  inscription,  ^Ne 
patris  sui  manibus  terra  gravis  esset,  hoc  saxum  cruei  advolvebat  et 
huic  loco  dondbat  Antonius  van  Dyck',  in  allusion  to  the  history  of 
the  picture,  which  was  executed  for  the  Dominican  Nunnery  in  1629 
(when  Van  Dyck  was  in  his  30th  year),  at  the  dying  wish  of  the 
artist's  father. — 336.  F.  Snyders,  Dead  grime;  210.  Jordaens,  Last 

Baedekeb's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit-  11 


162     Jioule  15.  ANTWERP.  Museum. 

Supper;  335.  Snyders,  Swans  and  dogs;  a'bove  the  door,  707. 
Rubens,  Baptism  of  Christ,  with  figures  over  life-size;  it  has  un- 
fortunately been  freely  retouched.  The  group  of  five  men  dressing 
themselves,  to  the  right,  seems  to  have  been  suggested  by  the 
celebrated  Bathing  Soldiers  of  Michael  Angelo.  —  *403.  Van  Dyck, 
Entombment :  the  finely-balanced  composition  of  tliis  expressive  pic- 
ture and  its  careful  execution,  in  which  tlie  effect  of  brilliant  colour- 
ing is  intentionally  renounced,  assure  it  a  place  among  the  master- 
pieces of  the  first  rank.  —  706.  Rubens,  Portrait  of  Gasp.  Gevaerts. 

*30o.  Rubens^  Communion  of  St.  Francis;  recalling  Carracci's 
Communion  of  St.  Jerome.  The  figure  of  the  saint,  who  is  receiving 
his  last  sacrament,  produces  a  most  painful  impression.  The  picture 
■was  painted  in  1619,  and  Rubens's  receipt  for  the  price  is  still 
preserved  ('seven  hondert  en  vyftig  gulden ,  tot  volcomen  betalinghe 
van  een  stuck  schilderye  door  niyne  liandt  gemaeckV,  i.  e.  'seven 
hundred  and  fifty  florins ,  in  full  payment  for  a  piece  of  painting 
done  by  my  hand'). 

708.  Rubens,  Portrait;  31.  P.  Brueghel  the  Younger,  Bearing  of 
the  Cross;  402.  Copy  after  Rubens  (ascribed  to  Van  Dyck  in  the 
catalogue,  original  at  "Windsor),  Portrait  of  Bishop  Malderus  of 
Antwerp  (d.  1633);  21.  Th.  Boeyermans,  Pool  of  Bethcsda;  734. 
Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  a  priest;  221.  Jordaens,  Adoration  of  the 
sliepherds;  677.  J.  Jordaens  the  Elder,  Family  concert;  145.  A. 
Francken,  Martyrdom  of  SS.  Crispinus  and  Crispinianus. 

Room  F.  To  the  left :  329.  1).  Seghers,  Ignatius  Loyola,  in  a 
frame  of  flowers;  726.  Day.  Teniers  the  Younger,  The  duel;  687- 
689.  M.  Pepyn,  St.  Elizabeth  (triptych);  108.  C.  de  Vos,  Adoration 
of  the  Magi;  Dav.  Teniers  the  Younger,  348.  Evening,  346.  Morn- 
ing, 347.  Afternoon;  186.  A.  Goubau,  Piazza  Navona  at  Rome; 
727.  D.  Teniers  the  Younger,  Landscape;  710.  Rubens,  Beseeching 
the  help  of  Christ  for  the  poor  and  afflicted  (sketch);  345.  D.  Teniers 
the  Younger,  Flemish  tavern.  —  We  now  turn  to  the  left  to  — 

Room  G.  To  the  left:  641.  B.  Breenberg,  Lament  over  the  body 
of  Abel;  54.  J.  D.  de  Ueem,  Fruit;  10.  Nic.  Berghem,  Italian  land- 
scape. —  *293.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  Saskia  van  Ulenburgh,  his 
first  wife;  according  to  M.  Bode,  a  repetition  with  alterations  of  the 
famous  picture  at  Cassel  (1633),  and  painted  by  a  pupil. 

637.  iV.  Berghem,  Italian  landscape  with  cattle;  733,  A.  van 
de  Velde,  Pleasures  of  winter  (1662);  *715.  Sal.  vanRuysdatl,  Dutch 
river,  with  ferry ;  *349.  G.  Terburg,  Mandolin-player;  6.  A. JBacfeer, 
Allegory;  *188.  Fr.  Hals,  Half-length  portrait  of  a  fisher-boy  (the 
'Straadlooper  van  Haarlem';  painted,  according  to  M.  Bode,  about 
1640);  G6S.  Karel  Duiardin,  Cattle;  399.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Calm 
sea;  125.  Corn.  Dusart,  Interior  of  a  peasant's  hut;  294.  Rembr<mdt, 
The  little  fisher;  above,  no  number,  Be  Keyser,  Portrait;  *295. 
Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  an  aged  Jew;  502.  J.  Wynants  and  A.  van 
de  \'tlde,  Landscape;  11.  G.  Berck-Heyde,  Amsterdam  with  view  of 


Museum.  ANTWERP.  75.  Route.     163 

the  townhall ;  9.  Xie.  Berghem,  Plunderers  ;  *189.  Fr.  Hals,  Portrait ; 
2'2'2.  J.Jordaens.  Portrait;  *407.  A.  van  Byck,  Portrait  of  a  girl ; 
the  dogs  by  Fyt;  437.  W.  van  Mieris,  Fishmonger;  321.  Sal.  van 
Ruysdael^  River  scene;  319.  liubens  and  Jan  Brueghel,  Pieta ;  4'29. 
Van  Kessel,  Landscape;  3*20.  Jac.  van  Ruysdael,  Landscape  (1649), 
one  of  the  earliest  works  of  the  master,  and  still  revealing  strong 
traces  of  the  influence  of  J,  Wynants  ;  39S.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Land- 
scape; 501.  Ph.  Wouverman,  Riders  resting;  196.  C.  Hoeckgeest, 
Interior  of  the  Nienwe  Kerk  at  Delft;  above,  no  number,  K.  L. 
and  E.  J.  Verboeckhoven,  Sea-piece. 

338.  Jan  Steen,  Samson  and  the  Philistines ;  466.  Adr.  van  Ostade, 
Smokers (_16j53;  46.  Alb.  Cwyp,  Two  riders;  682.  Z).  3/i/^ens,  Portrait ; 
503.  Wynants,  Landscape  (the  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde) ;  *339.  Jan 
Steen,  Rustic  wedding;  500.  Ph.  Wouverman,  Riders  resting;  679. 
J.  Molenaer,  Tillage  festival;  674.  Fr.  Hals,  Portrait;  729.  W.  van 
Aelst,  Fruit;  675.  Hobbema,  Mill;  131.  Gov.  Flinck,  Portrait-group; 
752.  J.  Weenix,  Still-life;  657.  Ph.  de  Koninck,  Portrait;  655. 
C.  Decker,  Landscape;  '26.  J.  and  A.  Both,  Italian  landscape;  713. 
J.  van  Ruysdael,  Waterfall  in  Norway;  467.  Is.  van  Ostade,  Winter 
scene  ;  714.  Jac.  van  Ruysdael,  Storm  at  sea;  497.  J.  Weenix,  Italian 
harbour;  7.  L.  Bakhuysen,  Dutch  war-ship;  390.  A.  van  der  Neer, 
Landscape  by  moonlight.  —  We  return  through  Room  F.  to  — 

Room  E.  To  the  left:  356.  Theys,  Descent  from  the  Cross;  365. 
Van  Balen,  John  the  Baptist  preaching ;  23.  Th.  Boeyermans,  Ant- 
werp as  patron  of  tlie  arts  (allegorical  composition) ;  322.  D.  Ryckaert, 
Village  festival;  219.  Jordaens.  Allegory;  658.  A.  del  Campidoglio, 
Fruit;  265.  Murillo  (copy),  St.  Francis;  653.  De  Backer,  Last 
Judgment;  137,  136,  139,  140.  Amb.  Francken,  Triptych,  repre- 
senting the  Last  Supper,  Christ  at  Emmaus,  Melchisedec,  SS.  Paul 
and  Barnabas.  —  To  the  right  is  — 

Room  D.,  which  forms  with  Room  B.  and  A.  one  large  hall.  We 
begin  to  the  right  of  the  portal  to  Room  B.  638.  H.  Bosch,  Stations 
of  the  Cross;  273.  M.  Pepyn,  Crossing  of  the  Red  Sea;  229.  A.  Key, 
Second  and  third  wives  of  De  Smidt.  —  112.  Frans  de  Vriendt, 
or  Frans  Floris ,  Fall  of  the  Angels,  painted  in  1554,  and  highly 
esteemed  by  his  contemporaries. 

This  extensive  work  is  crowded  with  figures  falling  headlong  in 
every  conceivable  attitude  ,  and  is  destitute  of  any  depth  of  perspective. 
Many  of  the  figures  are  beautiful,  even  in  their  distorted  positions.  A  fly 
painted  on  the  leg  of  one  of  the  falling  angels  has  given  rise  to  the  absurd 
story  that  it  was  painted  by  Quinten  Massys  ,  and  that  Floris ,  whose 
daughter  Massys  was  wooing,  having  been  deceived  by  it,  was  satisfied 
with  this  proof  of  his  skill,  and  gave  his  consent  to  the  marriage.  The 
name  of  the  painter  whose  daughter  Massys  perhaps  married  (see  ft  146) 
is  unknown,  while  Floris  was  only  10  years  old  when  Massys  died. 

228.  A.  Key,  Portraits  of  the  De  Smidt  family;  113.  Fr.  de 
Vriendt  (Fr.  Floris),  Adoration  of  the  shepherds;  88.  Mart,  de  Vos, 
St.  Luke  painting  the  Virgin;  83-85.  Mart,  de  Vos,  Parables  of  the 
Tribute-money  and  the  Widow's  Mite  (^triptych,  1601).  —  *357. 

11* 


164    Route  75.  ANTWERP.  Museum. 

Titian,  Pope  Alexander  YI.  presenting  the  Bishop  of  Paphos,  a 
member  of  the  noble  family  of  Pesaro,  to  St.  Peter,  on  the  appoint- 
ment of  the  bishop  as  admiral  (painted  about  1503 ;  the  heads 
freely  restored).  — 135.  A.  Francken,  Feeding  of  the  Five  Thousand  j 
183.  J.  Gossaert  or  Mahuse^  Madonna  and  Child. 

**244,  246-249.  Quinten  Massys,  The  dead  Saviour,  a  soene 
(technically  termed  a  'Pieta')  between  the  Deposition  from  the 
Cross  and  the  Entombment.  It  was  formerly  an  altarpiece  in 
the  cathedral,  completed  in  1508,  and  is  universally  regarded  as  the 
master's  chef  d'oeuvre. 

Centeal  Picture.  The  funeral  cortege  is  represented  as  halting  at 
the  foot  of  Mt.  Calvary,  whilst  on  its  way  from  the  Cross  to  the  Se- 
pulchre. The  dead  Saviour  is  partly  suiiportcd  by  ^Nicodeuius,  on 
whose  right  Joseph  of  Arimathsea  supports  the  head  with  one  hand,  while 
with  the  other  he  removes  the  remaining  shreds  of  the  crown  of  thorns. 
The  mother  in  an  agony  of  grief  kneels  near  the  body  of  her  Son,  and  is 
supported  by  St.  John.  On  the  left  Mary  Slagdalene ,  to  her  right  Salome. 
The  corpse  itself  bears  evident  traces  of  the  master's  anxiety  to  attain  ana- 
tomical accuracy.  Its  attitude  is  rigid,  the  countenance  distorted  by  the 
pangs  of  the  death-struggle.  The  face  of  the  Virgin  is  almost  as  pale  as 
that  of  the  dead  body  itself.  The  man  with  the  turban,  bearing  the 
crown  of  thorns  ,  appears  rather  indignant  than  mournful.  The  expres- 
sion of  Joseph  of  Arimathaea  is  that  of  pain  mingled  with  benevolence. 
St.  John  has  the  rigid  and  almost  square  features ,  disfigured  by  grief, 
which  had  become  the  usual  type  of  the  apostle  in  the  earlier  period  of  art. 

The  Wings  ,  which  are  less  satisfactory  than  the  central  picture, 
represent  the  martyrdom  of  St.  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  John  the  Evangelist. 
In  the  former  Herod  is  represented  banqueting  in  an  open  hall,  whilst 
the  daughter  of  Herodias  brings  in  the  head  of  the  Baptist.  The  task  of 
depicting  frivolity  and  vanity  in  the  countenances  of  the  king  and  the 
hardened  mother,  contrasted  with  an  expression  of  greater  feeling  in  the 
daughter,  has  evidently  been  attempted  by  the  master,  though  not  very 
successfully.  The  motion  of  the  girl,  intended  to  be  light  and  elastic,  is 
hard  and  forced.  Some  of  the  heads,  however,  are  admirably  finished. 
—  The  other  wing  represents  St.  John  in  the  cauldron  of  boiling  oil.  The 
executioners,  in  the  costume  of  Flemish  peasants  ,  with  their  sun-burnt, 
muscular  arms,  are  attending  actively  to  the  fire.  In  the  background  the 
Emp.  Domitian  appears,  mounted  on  a  white  horse,  and  attended  by 
eight  horsemen. 

649-651.  P.  Claessens,  Crucifixion,  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  Re- 
surrection ;  464.  B.  van  Orley  and  Joach.  Patinir,  Adoration  of  the 
Magi.  —  We  turn  to  the  right  to  — 

Room  C.  On  a  stand  in  the  centre,  280-210.  Lucas  van  Leyden 
(?),  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  on  the  right  wing  St.  George,  on  the 
left  wing  the  donor. 

*530,  531,  255,  256.  Four  admirable  little  pictures  on  two 
diptychs,  almost  resembling  miniatures.  On  one  of  them  Mary  is 
represented  with  a  lofty  and  rich  crown ,  standing  in  the  interior 
of  a  Gothic  church  ;  on  her  right  arm  the  Child  half  wrapped  in  the 
swaddling-clothes.  On  the  back,  the  Saviour  in  a  white  robe  with 
the  letters  Alpha  and  Omega,  and  P  and  F  (Pater  et  Filius)  on 
a  ground  of  red  tapestry;  beneath  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the 
two  donors,  date  1499.  The  other  diptych  bears  the  portraits  of  the 
donors,  Abbots   of  the   Cistercian   Monastery  of  Les   Dunes  near 


Museum.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.    165 

Bruges.  These  works  were  formerly  attributed  to  Meinling,  but  are 
now  believed  to  have  been  executed  by  Cornelius  Horebout,  a  master 
who  flourished  at  Bruges  about  the  end  of  the  15th  century. 

180,  181.  Mabuse,  The  just  judges,  Ecce  homo. 

To  the  left  of  the  door  to  Room  B.  (p.  163)  :  199.  Hans  Holbein 
the  Younger,  Portrait;  243.  Quinten  Massys,  Mary  Magdalene  witli 
the  box  of  spikenard;  *4il.  Jan  van  Eyck,  Madonna  in  a  blue 
robe,  and  the  Child  in  her  arms  playing  with  a  rosary;  to  the 
right  a  fountain;  her  feet  rest  on  rich  drapery  held  by  two  angels 
behind  her.  The  picture ,  which  bears  the  painter's  name  and 
motto,  and  the  date  1439,  resembles  the  so-called  Madonna  of  the 
Seminary  in  the  Archiepiscopal  Museum  at  Cologne.  132.  J.  Fouquet 
(early  French  school),  Madonna  and  child;  *5.  Antonello  da  Messina 
(or  rather  Memling?},  Portrait.  —  33.  Fr.  CLouet  (1510-1572;  a 
French  artist,  wiio  followed  the  Flemish  school  of  painting).  Portrait 
of  Francis  II.  of  France  when  Dauphin;  124.  A.  Diirer  (?),  Portrait 
in  grisaille  of  the  Elector  Frederick  III.  of  Saxony.  *396.  Roger 
van  der  Weyden,  Annunciation,  a  small  picture  of  most  delicate 
execution ,  formerly  in  the  Convent  of  Lichtenthal  near  Baden- 
Baden,  once  erroneously  attributed  to  Memling  (under  glass).  253. 
School  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden ,  A  canon  of  St.  Norbert;  28. 
Dierick  Bouts  (?),  Madonna;  47.  Herri  met  de  Bles,  Repose  on  the 
flight  into  Egypt ;  203.  Lucas  van  Leyden,  Saul  and  David. 

*393-395.  Roger  van  der  Weyden ,  Sacrament  of  the  altar, 
flanked  by  two  wings  representing  the  six  other  Romish  sacraments 
(to  the  right,  Ordination,  Marriage,  Extreme  Unction;  to  the  left, 
Baptism,  Confirmation,  Confession). 

The  scene  is  in  a  spacious  Gothic  church,  the  architecture  of  which 
seems  to  unite  the  groups.  This  picture,  the  gem  of  Burgomaster  Van 
Ertborn's  collection  (p.  158),  is  brilliantly  executed.  The  crucifixion  in  the 
foreground  introduces  an  effective  dramatic  element  into  the  picture ;  and 
the  spectator  can  hardly  fail  to  sympathise  with  the  distress  of  the  women 
mourning  there,  as  well  as  with  the  holy  joy  which  lights  up  the  features 
of  the  dying  persons  receiving  the  extreme  unction.  The  angels  above  the 
various  groups,  robed  in  symbolical  colours,  are  particularly  well  drawn. 

387.  Gerard  van  der  Meire  (?),  Christ  in  the  tomb;  *410.  Jan 
ran  Eyck,  St.  Barbara,  an  unfinished  sketch  of  great  beauty  (1435); 
204,  205,  206.  Lucas  van  Leyden,  SS.  Luke,  xMark,  and  Matthew ; 
250.  Quinten  Massys,  Head  of  Christ;  3.  Fra  Angelico  da  Fiesole, 
St.  Ambrose  refusing  Emp.  Theodosius  admission  to  the  church  at 
Milan  on  account  of  the  massacre  atThessalonica ;  64.  Joach.  Patinir, 
Landscape,  with  the  Flight  into  Egypt;  29.  Dierick  Bouts  (?),  St. 
Christopher;  223.  Justus  van  Ghent  (?J,  Adoration  of  the  shepherds; 
462.  B.  van  Orley,  Portrait ;  383-385.  Gerard  van  der  Meire,  Bear- 
ing of  the  Cross  (winged  picture);  254.  School  of  Roger  van  der 
Weyden,  Portrait  of  a  member  of  the  Croy  family;  341,  L.  Lombard, 
Portrait ;  397.  Roger  van  der  Weyden  (?),  Portrait  of  Philip  the  Good 
ofBurgundy  (under  glass)  ;  42.  L.  Cranach  the  Elder,  Adam  and  Eve ; 
*241,  *242.  Quinten  Massys,  Christ  and  Mary,  two  heads  remarkable 


166    Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Muf'eum. 

for  their  beauty  and  dignity,  once  erroneously  ascribed  to  Holbein 
(replicas  in  the  London  National  Gallery);  *4.  Antonello  da  Messina 
(one  of  the  flrst  Italian  masters  to  adopt  Van  Eyck's  method  of  paint- 
ing in  oil),  Mt.  Calvary,  Christ  on  the  Cross  with  the  malefactor  at 
each  side ;  in  the  foreground  SS.  Mary  and  John,  The  picture  (which 
bears  the  date  1475)  presents  a  curious  combination  of  the  Flemish 
minuteness  of  detail  with  Italian  forms.  257-260.  Simone  Martini 
of  Siena  (d.  1344),  Annunciation  in  two  sections,  Crucifixion,  and 
Descent  from  tbe  Cross,  formerly  at  Dijon;  412.  Good  copy  after  Jan 
van  Eyck,  Virgin  with  the  Canon  de  Pala  (original  in  the  museum 
at  P>ruges,  p.  20)  ;  224.  Justus  van  Ghent  (?),  Sacrament  of  the  altar; 
264.  Jan  Mostert,  Portrait;  179.  Mahuse,  The  four  Maries  and  John 
coming  from  the  Sepulchre;  198.  Holbein  ['*\  Portrait  of  Erasmus; 
263.  Jan  Mostert,  Portrait;  *43.  L.  Oranach  the  Elder,  Caritas;  244. 
Quinten  Massys  (?),  The  Miser ;  386.  Gerard  van  der  3/circ(?),  Cruci- 
flxioii;  25.  H.  Bosch,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony.  —  We  return 
through  Poom  B.  to  — 

Room  A.  To  the  right :  371.  Michael  van  Coxie,  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Sebastian ;  77-80.  Mart,  de  Vos,  Christ  convincing  the  doubting 
Thomas,  on  the  wings  the  Baptism  of  Christ  and  the  Beheading  of 
John  the  Baptist ;  741-745.  B.  van  Orley,  Last  Judgment,  on  the  wings 
the  Seven  works  of  mercy;  576-580.  Unknown  Master,  Large  trip- 
tych, in  the  middle  St.  Eligius,  the  apostle  of  Antwerp,  preaching; 
374,  375.  M.vanCoxie,  Martyrdom  of  St.  George;  72-76.  M.deVos, 
Triumph  of  Christ;  698.  P.  Pourbus,  Gilles  van  Schoonbeke. 

From  Room  A.  we  enter  the  so-called  Historical  Section,  see  p.  159. 

EooM  O.  To  the  right:  413-424.  Worship  of  the  Lamb  without  spot, 
old  copy  of  the  part  of  the  picture  by  the  brothers  Van  Eyck  now  at 
Ghent;  ('84.  G.  and  B.  Peelers,  Battle  of  Calico  (1638);  720.  Huh.  f^porck- 
mans.  The  town  of  Antwerp  petitioning  Emperor  Ferdinand  to  re-open  the 
Schelde  for  navigation,  large  allegorical  painting;  735.  Mc.  van  Eyck, 
a  Parade  of  the  city  militia  in  the  Place  de  Meir. 

KoOM  P.  contains  almost  exclusively  modern  views  of  Antwerp.  1005. 
Bossiiel,  Fish-market  in  Antwerp;  1042.  A.  de  Kei/ser.,  The  Steen  in  the 
year  1875;  1024.  F.  de  Braekeleer,  Destruction  of  the  Porte  St.  Georges; 
1027.  /'.  de  Braekeleer,  The  citadel  after  the  bombardment  of  1832;  1025. 
F.  de  Braekeleer,  Destruction  of  the  Porte  Kipdorp  ;  1147.  Ph.  van  Bree,  Kuins 
of  the  warehouses  after  the  conflagration  of  1830;  1125.  J.  Ruyten,  The  Canal 
aux  Charbons  in  the  year  1875;  llOS.  li.  Mols,  Harbour  of  Antwerp  in  the  year 
1870  (seen  from  the  Vlaamsch  Hoofd);  639.  P.  J.  Bout,  C)},uay  with  the  old 
crane  of  Antwerp  in  the  17th  century.  —  We  return  through  Room  O.  into  — 

Room  N.,  which  contains,  besides  views  of  old  Antwerp,  a  number  of 
portraits  by  unknown  masters.  To  the  left  of  the  door  info  Room  J.: 
277.  Itoh.  Peril,  Entry  of  Charles  V.  and  Pope  Clement  VII.  into  Boulogne 
in  1530,  huge  painted  wood-cut;  107S.  Herrems,  Portrait  of  Jac.  de  Buc; 
271.  /.  Peelers,  Tlie  Schelde  at  Antwerp  in  winter;  635.  Unknown  Artist, 
Burning  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  of  Antworp  in  1576;  C07.  P.  Goelkint  (end 
of  the  16th  cent.),  Destruction  of  the  old  citadel  of  Antwerp;  636.  Un- 
known Artist,  Iiecci)tion  of  Marie  de  Mcdicis  at  Antwerp  (1631);  ()81.  Jan 
Mosterl,  View  of  the  old  Hotel  de  Ville  at  Antwerp,  with  the  Trial  of 
Christ;  633.   Unknown  Artist,  View  of  old  Antwerp. 

Through  Room  J.  (p.  159)  we  reach  the  Gallery  of  Modern 
Paintings  (Musee  Moderne). 


Museum.  ANTWEKP.  15.  Route.      107 

Room  Q.  1531.  .\fadcu,  Young  man  offering  a  Rirl  a  necklace  ;  1157. 
Van  Kvyck,  Stable;  1050.  Deir  Aequo,  The  bride's  jewels;  1103.  Marinus, 
Episode  in  the  inundation  of  the  Meuse  district  in  1872;  1059.  Dotirette., 
Winter-scene  by  moonlight ;  1073.  (?(?j'f/rd,  Wedding-guests ;  1182.  Waufers, 
On  the  KaT-el-Nil  in  Cairo;  1063.  Fournwis,  Scene  in  the  Ardennes,  near 
Dinant;  1012.  Clays,  Sea  near  Dort ;  15'20.  Dyckman$,  Blind  beggar;  1140. 
Van  Beers,  Portrait  of  Bcnoit,  the  musician;  1013.  Cleyhnens,  Interior; 
1183.  Wierlz,  Contest  for  the  body  of  Patmclus;  1119.  Phimont.  Crossing 
a  bridge;  1134.  Stobbaerts.  Dogs;  1120.  Portaels,  Hendrik  Conscience; 
1131.  Stevens,  In  despair;  1170.  Verlat,  The  painter  Lies;  1070.  Qeeraerts, 
Interior  of  the  Dominican  church  at  Antwerp;  1098.  Lies,  Prisoners  of 
war;  1029.  H.  de  BraekeUer,  Tavern  at  Antwerp;  1099.  Lies,  'The  foe 
is  coming';  1110.  Munthe,  Winter  scene;  1184.  Wierlz,  Portrait  of  M.  Con- 
stautin  van  den  Nest;  1100.  Lies,  Albrecht  Diirer  crossing  the  Rhine; 
1083.  Koekkoek,  Scene  near  Cleves;  1106.  Mincjuet,  Interior  of  Bruges 
Cathedral;  1045.  A.  de  Knyff,  Village  of  Chaslepont ;  1035.  De  Bruycker, 
Afternoon  coffee ;  1161.  Van  Regemorter,  Quarrel  over  cards  ;  1028.  Braekeleer 
the  Younger,  Ti'e  voung  artist. 

Room  S.  1047",  104S.  Lntour,  The  artist  and  liis  wife;  1172.  Verlat, 
Buflalo  and  lion  lighting;  1500.  Arhenbnch ,  Harbour  of  Ostend ;  1174. 
Verlat,  Rising  in  Antwerp  on  Aug.  24th,  1577;  the  shattered  statue  of  the 
Duke  of  Alva  being  dragged  through  the  streets;  1105.  Meyers,  On  the 
banks  of  the  Schelde;  11G6.   Verboeck/wven,  Sheep  and  hens. 

Room  T.  1127.  Schaefels,  Battle  of  Trafalgar;  1511.  Calame,  The 
Wetterhorn;  1527.  Jacobs,  Porte  d'Aval  at  Etretat  (Normandy);  1009. 
Carpentier,  Episode  during  the  Vendean  war;  1006.  Bource,  Return  from 
fishing;  1087.  ZoOTormi^re,  Landscape ;  1094.  Leys,  Flemi-sb  wedding  in  the 
17th  cent. ;  1180.  Wapper.",  Mother  and  child;  1133.  Stobbaerts,  Leaving 
the  stable;  1130.  Somers,  The  proof;  1102.  Linnig,  Workshop  of  the  Ant- 
werp coppersmith  Geert  de  Winter;  1114.  Ooms,  PLilip  II.  paying  the  last 
lionours  to  Don  John  of  Austria;  1501.  Bendemann,  Penelope;  1559.  Ver- 
boeckhoven,  On  the  way  to  market;  1072.  G'ee^5,.Ioanna  the  Mad  of  Castile; 
1533.  Navez,  Holy  family;  1093.  Leys,  Rubens  at  a  fete  held  in  his  honour 
at  Antwerp;  15.37.  Portaels,  Judith;  1148.  Van  der  Ouderaa,  Judicial 
satisfaction. 

Room  U.  1509.  Braekeleer,  Village-.school;  1122.  Rosseels,  Neighbour- 
hood of  Waesmiinster;  1142.  Van  Brie,  Death  of  Rubens  (painted  in 
1827);  1019.  De  Block,  Closing  of  the  school;  11G8.  Verhaert,  Fishwife; 
1036.  De  Caisne,  Mater  Dolorosa;  1129.  Somers,  The  librarian;  1179.  De 
Vinck,  The  Netherlandish  nobles  before  Margaret  of  Parma;  1014.  Col, 
The  barber's  shop  ;  1181.  ]V(ippers,  The  brothers  De  Witt  awaiting  in  their 
prison  the  entrance  of  the  mob  (p.  270);  1021.  Braekeleer,  Plundering  of 
Antwerp  by  the  Spaniards  (1576);  1121.  Eobbe,  Landscape;  1021.  A.  de 
Braekeleer,  Smithy;  1008.  Cap,  Kpisode  from  the  Belgian  national  festival 
of  ISFO;  llfO.  Van  Luppen,  Autumn  scene;  116').  Verboeckhoven,  Cattle 
(life-size);  1003.  Beaufau.v,  The  daughter  of  Herodias  waiting  for  the  head 
of  John  the  Baptist. 

Room  V.  1032.  Farasim,  Fish-market  in  Antwerp;  1505.  Cabanel, 
Cleopatra;  1001.  Asselberghs,  Sunset;  1171.  Verlat,  Madonna  and  Child 
with  the  four  Evangeli.'its ;  1055.  De  Schampheleer,  View  of  Oouda;  1173. 
Verlat,  Cart  and  horses;  1037.  De  Caisne,  Guardian  Angel  (his  last  work, 
unfinished) ;  1513.  N.  de  Keyser,  Charles  V.  liberating  Christian  slaves  on 
the  capture  of  Tunis;  1555.  Wappers,  The  Shulamite  maiden  (from  the 
Song  of  Solomon);  15il.  Robert- Fleury,  The  dead  body  of  Titian  in  the 
Palazzo  Barbarigo  at  Venice;  1044.  N.  de  Keyser,  Bull-fight;  1159.  Van 
Lerius,  Lady  Godiva  ridinir  through  the  streets  of  Coventry;  115S.  Van 
Ktiyck,  Woodcutter;  1018.  De  DiMoe,  The  Compromise  of  the  Netherlandish 
nobles  in  15r36  (p.  92). 

RoomW.  Mostly  portraits.  1552.5e$rc(«.Peter  v. Cornelius;  1.502.  i^encfeniann, 
Portraitof  himself;  1.542.  Robert- Fleury,  Portrait  of  himself:  1520. /«vre«,  Por- 
trait of  himself ;  1503.  Cadanei,  Portrait  of  himself;  1515.  Portaels,  Delaroche, 
the  painter  ;  1554.  Bendemann,  Portrait  of  the  painter  Schadow.  —  Above  the 
door :  1535.  Overbeck,  Christ  escaping  from  his  persecutors  ;1532.  Al. Robert,  Por- 


IQS    Route  15.  ANTWERP.  Public  Park. 

trait  of  the  painter  Madou  i  1512.  Rubio,  Portrait  of  the  iiainter  Calame  ;  1553. 
Scha (low,  Gariiaa;  1528.  Joors,  Portrait  of  the  painter  Jacoba ;  1534.  Aavez, 
Portrait  of  himself;  1514.  A.  de  Eeyser,  Portrait  of  himself;  1550.  Verboeck- 
hoven,  Portrait  of  himself. 

The  Park  of  the  Palais  de  I'lndustrie  (PI.  B,  6;  adm.  1  fr.; 
band  on  Mon.  and  Thurs.  8-10,  Sim.  3-5  p.m.),  adjoining  the  Place 
du  Peuple  on  the  S.,  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  S.  citadel,  huilt 
by  the  Duke  of  Alva,  of  which  only  a  few  scanty  traces  now  remain. 
The  proximity  of  the  Schelde  and  the  cool  breeze  which  sets  in  with 
flood-tide  make  this  park  a  charming  promenade  for  summer-even- 
ings. An  avenue  leads  from  the  entrance  to  the  N.  portion  of  the 
International  Exhibition  of  1885,  which  has  been  left  standing,  and 
in  which  the  band  plays  in  bad  weather.  The  Tonkin  Home,  built 
by  the  French  government  for  the  accommodation  of  the  productions 
of  the  French  colonies  during  the  exhibition,  now  contains  the 
Musee  Commercial,  Industriel,  et  EUinographique.  The  building  is 
noteworthy  but  the  collections  are  of  little  interest.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood is  a  genuine  Dutch  tavern,  with  the  announcement  'Hier 
tapt  man  AYinterbier  van  Oppuirs'.  —  The  park  is  skirted  by  the 
Kue  Kroonenburg  (PI.  B,  5),  at  the  W.  end  of  which,  near  the 
Schelde,  once  stood  the  castle  of  Kroonenburg,  which  marked  the 
N.W.  limit  of  the  German  empire. 


Near  the  centre  of  the  present  town,  snrrounded  by  tlie  most 
fashionable  new  streets,  lies  tlie  Public  Park  (PI.  C,  D,  4).  It  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  an  old  lunette,  the  moats  of  which  have  been  con- 
verted into  an  ornamental  sheet  of  water,  spanned  by  a  chain-bridge 
(view).  In  the  W.  angle  of  the  Park  is  a  statue  of  the  painter 
Quinten  Massys  (PL  D,  4),  by  H.  de  Braekeleer,  erected  in  1883. 
From  this  point  the  Avenue  Rubens  leads  to  the  statue  of  the 
painter  Hendrik  Leys,  by  J.  Ducaju,  in  the  Avenue  Louise  Marie, 
in  which  (to  the  N.E.)  there  is  also  a  large  Jesuit  convent,  with  a 
school  and  church.  —  The  Avenue  Rubens  proceeds  thence  to  the 
monument  (by  JuL  Pecher)  erected  in  1886  to  the  painter  Jac. 
Jordaens  (PI.  C,  5).  —  The  Avenue  Van  Eyck  leads  to  the  Place 
Loos  (PL  D  5).  The  space  in  front  of  the  church  of  St.  Joseph 
(see  p.  169)  is  embellished  with  the  Monument  Loos,  erected  in 
commemoration  of  the  destruction  of  the  old  fortifications,  which 
were  built  during  the  Spanish  domination  and  existed  down  to  1859. 
It  consists  of  a  statue  of  Antwcrpia  on  a  lofty  base,  surrounded  with 
figures  representing  commerce  and  navigation.  In  front  is  a  marble 
bust  of  Burgomaster  J,  F.  Loos  (1848-62).  The  monument  was 
designed  and  executed  by  Jules  Pecher.  —  Opposite,  at  the  corner 
of  the  Avenue  Quentin  Massys  and  the  Avenue  Plan  tin  (PL  D,  4), 
is  a  magnificent  house  in  tlie  Flemish  style,  recently  erected  for  M. 
Rene  Morctus  de  Theux  (comp.  p.  154)  from  the  designs  of  J. 
Stordiau.  The  medallions  on  the  farade  represent  distinguished 
men  connected  with  the  history  of  the  Plantin  printing-house. 


Wharfs.  ANTWERP.  15.  Route.     169 

Between  the  Avenue  Morctus ,  which  leads  henoc  to  the  E., 
and  the  Avenue  Charlotte,  leading  to  the  S.E.,  rises  the  new 
Church  of  St.  Josbph  (PI.  D,  5),  a  liomanesque  building  by  Gife. 
The  interior  contains  fine  altars  and  a  handsome  pulpit ,  and  is 
adorned  with  stained  glass  and  frescoes  of  the  Passion,  the  latter  by 
Hendricks.  At  the  point  where  the  Avenue  Moretus  meets  the  Boule- 
vard Le'opold  rises  the  Monument  of  Van  Schoonbeke  (PI.  D,  5),  one 
of  the  most  distinguished  citizens  of  Antwerp  in  the  middle  of 
the  15th  century.  In  the  Boul.  Le'opold,  opposite  the  end  of  the 
Avenue  Charlotte,  is  a  colossal  statue,  designed  by  Ducaju,  of  Bo- 
duognatus.  a  Belgian  chief,  who  opposed  the  invasion  of  Julius  Caesar. 

The  Boulevard  Le'opold  ends  on  the  S.W.  at  the  Chaussee  de 
Malines,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Pepiniere  (PL  D,  6),  or  ar- 
boricultural  garden,  which  has  been  converted  into  a  pleasant  park, 
in  the  English  style,  by  Keilig,  who  laid  out  the  grounds  at  the  Bois 
de  la  Cambre,  near  Brussels  (p.  115).  The  new  Basilique  du  Sacre 
Coeur,  in  the  adjacent  Avenue  de  Me'rode,  built  by  Bilmeyer  and 
Van  Riel,  contains  some  stained  -  glass  windows  by  L.  Lefevre  of 
Paris  and  an  altar  by  Armand  Calliat  of  Lyons. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  park,  behind  the  Station  de  I'Etat,  lies  the 
*Zoological  Garden  ['■Dierentuin  ;  PL  D,  3,  4),  which  is  entered 
from  the  Rue  Carnot  It  was  founded  in  1843  and  then  lay  out- 
side the  town,  between  it  and  the  suburb  of  Borgerhout.  It  is  one 
of  the  best  in  Europe  (admission  1  fr.).  Concerts  in  summer  on 
Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.  afternoons  or  evenings.  The  carnivora  are 
fed  daily  at  5  p.m.  (Sat.  excepted),  the  seals  at  11  a.m.  and  4  p.m. 
—  Panorama  of  the  Battle  of  Worth  (PL  D,  4),  see  p.  138.  —  The 
old  E.  suburb  of  Borgerhout  is  adorned  with  a  Statue  of  Carnot, 
defender  of  the  city  in  1811,  situated  in  the  place  of  the  same 
name  (PL  E,  3).    To  the  N.  is  a  large  Hospital  (PL  E,  2). 

Visitors  who  wish  to  inspect  the  new  and  formidable  circumvallation 
of  Antwerp  may  make  use  of  one  of  the  tramway -lines  which  connect 
the  interior  of  the  city  with  the  various  gates,  e.g.  the  Porte  de  Malines 
(in  the  former  suburb  ofBerchem,  PI.  E,  7),  which  is  itself  interesting  in 
an  architectural  point  of  view. 


The  influence  of  the  tide  is  perceptible  on  the  Schclde  a  long 
way  above  Antwerp,  and  at  the  city  the  difference  between  high 
and  low  water  amounts  to  12-25  ft.  ('Bisque  die  refluo  me  flumen 
Scaldis  honorat").  Along  the  river  extend  the  handsome  and  busy 
*Wliarf8,  or  Quais,  -which  have  undergone  since  1881  a  process 
of  complete  reconstruction  and  extension.  The  river,  the  width 
of  which  at  Antwerp  formerly  varied  from  900  to  2000  ft. ,  has 
been  confined  to  a  channel  with  a  uniform  width  of  1150  ft.  and 
a  uniform  depth  of  25  ft.  These  alterations,  the  total  cost  of  which 
is  estimated  at  38,275,000  fr.  (1,530,000 ^.),  have,  along  with 
the  new  Docks,  made  Antwerp  one  of  the  first  harbours  in  the  world. 
The  quay-frontage  is  upwards  of  2  M.  long.  The  steamers  and  mer- 


170    Route  15.  ANTWERP.  The  Steen. 

cliantiueii  receive  and  discharge  their  cargoes  with  tlie  aid  of  gi- 
gantic and  noiseless  hydraulic  cranes,  which  transfer  the  goods  di- 
rectly to  or  from  the  railway-trucks.  The  cranes  are  worked  by  a 
subterranean  aqueduct,  which  is  also  used  in  opening  and  shuttijig 
the  sluice-gates,  in  shunting  the  trains,  etc.  There  are  two  engine- 
houses  in  connection  with  the  aqueduft,  one  at  the  N.  and  one  at 
the  S.  harbour. 

Along  the  quays  lie  the  steamers  of  the  regular  lines,  which  \)\y 
at  fixed  intervals  and  to  definite  ports.  Among  the  most  interesting 
are  the  gigantic  transatlantic  liners  "Friesland',  'Noordland',  and 
•Westcrnland',  belonging  to  the  Red  Star  Line.,  which  lie  at  the 
Quai  du  Khin  (PI.  R,  1,  2).  Tickets  (50c.)  admitting  visitors  to 
inspect  the  interior  are  granted  0!i  application  at  Rue  des  Peignes'22 
(PI.  P> ,  4).  The  fine  new  steamers  of  the  North  German  Lloyd, 
plying  to  Shanghai  and  to  Sydney,  lie  at  the  Quai  Van  Dyck  (PI.  B, 
3,4). 

The  picturesque  appearance  of  the  town  as  viewed  from  the  river 
has  unfortunately  been  much  altered  by  the  recent  improvements. 
Almost  the  only  older  buildings  that  have  been  left  standing  are 
the  Porte  de  I'Escaut  and  the  Steen. 

The  Porte  de  PEscaut  (PI.  B,  4),  a  gateway  designed  by  Rubens 
and  adorned  with  sculptures  by  A.  QuetLin,  has  been  removed  from 
its  position  on  the  Quai  van  Dyck  to  the  Quai  Plantin,  a  little  lower 
down ;  it  bears  an  inscription  dedicated  by  the  ^Senntus  Popu- 
lusque  Antwerpienses'  to  the  ^Magnus  Philippus'  (1624).  This  prince 
was  Philip  IV.,  great-grandson  of  the  Emp.  Charles  V.,  who  reigned 
from  1021  to  1GG5,  and  under  whom  Spain  entirely  lost  her  prestige, 
having  been  deprived  of  Portugal  in  1640,  and  finally  of  the  Nether- 
lands in  1648.  A  stone  staircase  ascends  opposite  this  gateway  to 
the  more  southerly  of  the  two  Promenoirs,  whiih  overhang  the  now 
inaccessible  Hangard  and  afford  an  extensive  view  of  the  busy 
shipping  in  the  Schelde,  as  well  as  of  the  Steen  (see  below),  the 
cathedral  (p.  141),  and  the  Boucheries  (p.  148).  The  ascent  to 
the  N.  Promenoir  from  this  side  leads  through  the  Steen. 

The  Steen  (PI.  B,  3)  originally  formed  part  of  the  Castle  of 
Antwerp,  which  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  lords  of  the  soil  till 
1549,  when  Charles  V.  made  it  over  to  the  burghers  of  Antwerp. 
It  was  afterwards  the  seat  of  the  Spanish  Inquisition.  An  addition 
was  built  in  1889  on  the  N.,  in  the  style  of  the  original. 

The  interior  is  occupied  by  the  Muzeum  van  Oudheden  (daily,  10-i, 
Sun.  and  Thuw.  free,  other  days  1  fr.  •,  stick  or  umbrella  10  c,  candle  for 
dungeon  10  c.  ;  catalogue  I'/a  fr.,  to  the  Egyptian  section  •,'2  fr.),  a  collec- 
tion of  antiquities  and  curiosities  from  Roman  times  till  the  IBih  cent  , 
handsome  furniture  of  the  15th-17th  cent.,  weapons,  ivory  and  wood- 
carvings,  ornaments,  glass  (manufactured  in  Antwerp  after  Venetian  pat- 
terns), porcelain,  coins,  tapestry,  costumes,  ancient  prints,  engravin;/8,  and 
old  views  of  Antwerp.  The  dungeons,  'oubliettes',  etc.,  still  bear  sombre 
witness  to  its  former  history.  The  old  chapel  is  also  extant.  In  a  fore- 
court surrounded  by  a  tasteful  railing  are  columns,  altars,  tombstones,  etc. 


Docks.  ANTWERP.  75.  Route.      171 

The  *Docks  (Fl.  K,  C,  1,  2;  visit  by  steamer  see  p.  137)  lie  at 
the  N.  end  of  the  town  and  cover  an  area  of  upwards  of  250  acres. 
They  are  bordered  by  an  extensive  net-work  of  railways,  by  which 
about  2500  trucks  leave  Antwerp  harbour  daily  for  different  parts 
of  Europe. 

The  Quai  Jordaens  (PI.  B,  2,  3)  leads  to  the  two  older  basins, 
the  Grand  and  Petit  Bassin  ,  constructed  by  Napoleon  (1804-13), 
at  a  cost  of  13  million  francs,  in  consequence  of  a  decree  of  21st 
July,  1803,  constituting  Antwerp  the  principal  naval  station  of  the 
N.W.  coast  of  France.  The  small  dock  is  capable  of  containing  100, 
and  the  large  one  250  vessels  of  moderate  tonnage.  The  accommo- 
dation afforded  by  these  docks  proving  insufficient,  the  Bassin  du 
Kattbndtk,  770  yds.  long  and  110  yds.  wide,  was  constructed  in 
1859-60 ;  it  is  connected  with  the  river  by  a  sluice  and  with  the 
Grand  Bassin  by  the  Bassin  de  Jonction^  added  in  1869.  To  the 
N.  of  the  sluice  are  several  Cales  Seches,  or  dry  docks,  connected 
with  the  Bassin  du  Kattendyk  by  sluice-gates.  In  the  angle  between 
the  N.  end  of  the  Kattendyk  and  the  dry  docks  (Pl.  B.  1 ;  leave  the 
harbour-steamer  at  station  5  and  cross  the  bridge)  was  situated  the 
factory  of  Corvillain,  the  explosion  in  which  on  Sept.  6,  1889 
wrought  such  terrible  havoc.  —  To  the  N.W.  are  the  Bassin  Africa 
and  Bassin  America  (with  enormous  cylindrical  petroleum-tanks). 
The  view  from  this  point  of  the  entire  length  of  the  quays  as  far  as 
the  S.  harbour  conveys  an  excellent  idea  of  the  enormous  extent  of 
the  port  and  its  dependencies.  To  the  E.  of  the  Bassin  du  Katten- 
dyk lie  the  Bassin  Mexico,  the  Bassin  de  la  Campine,  and  the  Bassin 
Asia,  all  of  large  dimensions. 

The  Docks  are  surrounded  with  large  warehouses,  one  of  which, 
the  Maisox  Hansf.atiqub,  possesses  considerable  historical  interest. 
This  massive  and  venerable  building,  265  ft.  long  and  213  ft.  broad, 
erected  in  1564-8  from  the  plans  of  Cornelis  de  Vriendt,  stands 
between  the  two  older  docks  and  was  origin;illy  employed  as  the 
warehouse  of  the  Uanseatic  cities.  It  bears  the  inscription  :  Sacri 
Romani  Imperii  Domus  Hansae  Teutonic^',  with  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  the  three  cities  of  the  League.  It  is  named  the  'Osterlings- 
/lujs'  by  the  Flemings.  In  1863  it  was  ceded  by  the  Hanseatic  towns 
to  the  Belgian  government,  as  an  equivalent  for  all  river-dues  exi- 
gible from  their  vessels.  —  The  largest  warehouse  is  the  Entkbpot 
Royal  (PI.  C,  3),  to  the  E.  of  the  Grand  Bassin,  erected  in  1829-32 
at  a  cost  of  3,680,000  fr.  as  a  royal  custom-house  and  bonded  ware- 
house, but  purchased  by  the  town  for  S^/2  million  francs.  The 
powerful  steam-elevators  here  are  interesting. 

A  good  survey  of  Antwerp  is  obtained  from  Vlaamsch  Hoofd, 
or  Tete  de  Flandre  [Restaurant  Kursaal;  Belvedere,  farther  down), 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Schelde,  to  which  a  steamer  crosses  every 
V4  hr.  (PI.  B,  3).  Tickets  (15  c.)  obtained  under  the  Promenoirs  of 
the  Quai  Van  Dyck.    Napoleon  considered  this  a  more  advantageous 


172     Route  Id.  ROOSP]NDAAL.  From  Antwerp 

site  than  that  of  Autwuip,  and  proposed  building  a  town  here.  — 
Pleasant  walk  downstream  on  the  dyke  between  the  Scheldc  and 
the  polder.    Railway  through  the  Waesland  to  Ghent,  see  p.  63. 

During  the  siege  of  Antwerp  in  1832  (p.  139)  the  Dutch  cut  through 
the  dyke  above  Vlaamsch  Iloofd,  thereby  laying  the  whole  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  even  the  high-road,  under  three  feet  of  water,  so  that 
no  vehicle  could  reach  the  tete-de-pont  of  Antwerp.  Twelve  Dutch  gun- 
boats cruised  over  the  polders  or  fields,  which  lie  much  lower  than  the 
sea-level.  In  this  condition  the  environs  remained  for  three  years.  The  soil, 
covered  with  sea-sand  by  the  action  of  the  tides,  and  impregnated  with 
salt,  was  rendered  quite  unlit  for  cultivation,  and  in  many  places  resembled 
the  sea-shore.     The  restoration  of  the  dyke  alone  cost  2,000,000  fr. 

The  Polygonc  de  Brasschaet  (steam-tramway,  p.  137,  No.  12),  a  large 
artillery-range,  10  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Antwerp,  may  be  visited  only  with 
permission  of  the  minister  of  war. 

About  21  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Antwerp  and  about  10  M.  from  Turn- 
hout  (p.  135;  steam-tramway,  p.  137,  No.  10),  lies  Hoogstraten  (Hotel 
de  la  Campine),  a  village  with  2000  inhab. ,  the  centre  of  the  Cat7i- 
pine  Anversoise,  or  moorland  district  round  Antwerp  (sec  below).  The 
late-Gothic  Citurch  of  St.  Catharine  is  an  interesting  brick  building  of  the 
first  half  of  the  16th  century.  The  choir  and  transept  contain  ])eautiful 
stained  glass  of  1520-50,  restored  in  18i6;  fine  stalls;  and  the  alabaster 
tomb  of  Count  Lalaing-Hoogstraten  (d.  1540),  the  founder  of  the  church, 
and  his  wife.  The  Hotel  de  Ville,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  16th  cent.,  is 
a  plain  brick  structure  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  old  Clidteau,  now 
a  poor-house,   lies  on  the  brook  Marcic,  a  lit'tlc  to  the  N.  of  the  village. 

16.    From  Antwerp  to  Rotterdam. 

a.    Railway  Journey. 

59  M.  Railway  in  3V2-4  hrs. ;  fares  8  fr.  90,  6  fr.  70,  4  fr.  75  c.  (or  4 11. 
75,  3  fl.  75,  2  11.  45  c).  The  only  points  of  interest  on  the  line  are  the 
handsome  bridges  over  the  Hollandsch  Diep,  the  Maas  at  Dordrecht,  and 
the  Lek  at  Rotterdam. 

The  train  starts  from  the  central  station,  traverses  the  suburb 
of  Borgerhoutj  passes  the  station  Anvers-Dam,  near  the  docks,  and 
intersects  the  new  fortifications.  7  M.  Eeckeren,  with  numerous 
villas  of  well-to-do  Antwerp  merchants.  We  then  traverse  the  mono- 
tonous moorlands  of  the  Campine  Anversoise.  l^j^  M.  Cappellen, 
also  with  several  country-seats.  About  81/2  ^^-  to  the  N.W.,  just 
beyond  the  Dutch  frontier,  lies  the  village  of  Fatten,  in  the  church- 
yard of  which  is  buried  Jacob  Jordaens  [d.  1G78),  the  painter,  who 
was  denied  a  grave  within  the  territory  of  Antwerp  owing  to  his 
having  been  a  Protestant;  the  old  tombstone  is  still  preserved,  and 
a  bronze  bust  by  Lambeaux  was  set  up  in  1877.  —  13  M.  Calmp- 
thout.  —  18  M.  Esschen  (Belgian  custom-house). 

23  M,  Roosendaal,  the  seat  of  the  Dutch  custom-house ,  and 
junction  for  the  Breda  and  Flushing  line  (R.  35). 

The  railway  next  traverses  a  wooded  district.  —  28  M.  Ouden- 
bosch,  with  a  new  domed  church;  33  M.  Zevenbergen.  —  (The  Bel- 
gian Grand  Central  Railway  goes  on  to  the  Moerdyk  on  the  Hollandsch 
Diep.)  —  38  m.  Lage-Zwaluwe,  where  the  line  joins  the  Maastricht- 
Rotterdam  Railway,  sec  p.  376.    Branch-lines  also  run  hence  to  the 


to  Rotterdam.  CALLOO.  76.  Route.    173 

^loerdyk,  and  via  Geertruidenlerg ,  Waspik,  Kaatsheuvel-Capelle^ 
and  Waalu-yh  to  Vlymen^  -whence  a  ililigence  plies  to  S'Hertogen- 
bosch  (p.  360). 

b.    Steamboat  Journey. 

Steamboat  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  in  9  hrs.  (2'/2  or  IV2  A.)  from 
the  Quai  Van  Dyck  (PI.  B,3),  morning  tide.  The  steamers  are  well  fitted 
up,  and  provided  with  restaurants.  Agents  at  Antwerp,  Van  Maenen  d- 
Tandenbroecl\  Quai  St.  Aldeuonde  3S  tPl.  B,  2) ;  at  Rotterdam,  Verwey  d:  Co.., 
Boompjes  (PI.  F,  3).  —  In  stormy  weather  the  voyage  is  rough  at  places. 

The  Steamboat  threads  its  way  between  the  nine  islands  form- 
ing the  Dutch  province  of  Zeelaxd  ,  the  character  of  which  is 
indicated  by  its  heraldic  emblem  of  a  swimming  lion,  with  the  motto : 
Luctor  et  Emergo.  The  greater  part  of  the  province,  probably  form- 
ed by  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  Schelde,  which  here  enters  the 
sea,  lies  considerably  below  the  sea-level,  the  only  natural  elevation 
being  a  few  dunes,  or  sand-hills  on  the  W.  coast  of  the  Islands  of 
Schouwen  and  Walcheren.  The  rest  of  the  province  is  protected 
against  the  encroachment  of  the  sea  by  vast  embankments,  the  aggre- 
gate length  of  which  extends  to  300  M.  The  land  is  extremely  fer- 
tile and  admirably  cultivated,  producing  abundant  crops  of  wheat 
and  other  grain. 

Immediately  after  the  departure  of  the  steamboat ,  the  passenger 
obtains  a  final  view  of  Antwerp,  extending  in  a  wide  curve  along 
the  bank  of  the  Schelde.  To  the  W.  of  the  docks  rises  Fort  Austru- 
weel  or  Oosterweel. 

Near  the  docks,  in  1831,  Lieutenant  van  Speyk,  a  gallant  Dutch  naval 
officer,  sacrificed  his  life  in  vindication  of  the  honour  of  his  flag.  A 
storm  had  driven  his  gunboat  on  shore,  and  a  crowd  of  Belgians  imme- 
diately hastened  to  the  spot  to  secure  the  prize,  calling  on  the  command- 
er to  haul  down  his  colours  and  surrender.  The  devoted  Van  Speyk, 
preferring  death  to  capture,  fired  his  pistol  into  the  powder-magazine, 
which  exploded  instantaneously,  involving  friends  and  foes,  as  well  as 
himself,  in  one  common  destruction. 

Farther  on.  Fort  Calloo  rises  on  the  left  and  Fort  St.  Philippe  on 
the  right.  At  this  point,  between  Calloo  on  the  left  and  Oorderen  on 
the  right  bank ,  Duke  Alexander  Farnese  constructed  his  celebrated 
bridge  across  the  Schelde,  in  1585,  during  the  siege  of  Antwerp 
(see  p.  139).  All  communication  between  the  besieged  and  their 
confederates  in  Zeeland  was  thus  entirely  broken  off.  The  citizens 
used  every  means  in  their  power  to  destroy  this  formidable  barrier, 
which  was  defended  by  numerous  guns.  After  many  fruitless 
attempts ,  the  fire-ship  of  the  Italian  engineer  Giambelli  at  length 
set  the  bridge  on  fire ,  and  blew  up  a  portion  of  it  so  unexpectedly 
that  800  Spaniards  lost  their  lives.  The  besieged  ,  however ,  were 
not  in  a  position  to  derive  any  advantage  from  this  signal  success, 
and  their  auxiliary  fleet  anchored  below  Fort  Lillo  was  too  weak  to 
attack  the  enemy  single-handed.  The  damage  to  the  bridge  was 
speedily  repaired ,  and  Antwerp,  notwithstanding  a  most  obstinate 
defence,  was  shortly  afterwards  reduced  by  famine.  — Fort  Frederic 
is  now  seen  on  the  right.    On  the  left,  lower  down,  lies  Fort  Lief- 


174     Rovle  ir,.  WILLRMSTAD. 

kenshoek,  on  the  ri^ht  Fort  Lillo,  both  retainefl  hy  the  Dutoh  till 
1839  (comp.  p.  xix).  Then,  on  the  left  hank,  JJoel,  a  little  heyond 
which  is  the  Dutch  frontier. 

The  first  Dutch  place  at  the  entrance  \o  the  Kreekrak,  a  nar- 
row branch  of  the  Schelde  which  was  tilled  up  when  the  railway 
embankment  was  constructed  (p.  246),  is  Fort  Bath,  where  the 
English  fleet  landed  in  1809.  The  steamer  continues  to  skirt  the 
S.  coast  of  the  island  of  Zuid-Beveland,  and  at  Hansweerd  turns  to 
the  right  into  the  Zuid-Beveland  Canal,  which  intersects  the  island, 
having  been  constructed  in  1866  to  compensate  for  the  filling  up 
of  the  Kreekrak.  The  E.  coast  of  the  island  of  S.  Beveland,  called 
the  ^Verdronken  Land^  (literally  'drowned  land'),  once  a  fertile 
tract ,  was  inundated  in  1532  by  the  bursting  of  a  dyke ,  when 
3000  persons  are  said  to  have  perished.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  canal, 
which  is  5  M.  in  length ,  and  is  crossed  by  the  railway  to  Goes 
(p.  245),  lies  Wemeldingen,  the  landing-place  for  Goes.  At  Yerseke, 
3  M.  to  the  E.,  oyster-breeding  is  carried  on  with  success. 

The  steamer  now  traverses  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Ooster- 
Schelde  in  a  N.  direction,  and  enters  the  narrow  Canal  de  Keeten, 
which  separates  the  islands  of  Tholen  and  Duiveland.  To  the  right,  at 
the  entrance,  lies  Stavenisse,  the  landing-place  for  Tholen,  a  small 
town  on  the  E.  side  of  the  island,  connected  with  r)ergen  op  Zoom 
by  ferry  and  steam-tramway  (p.  246).  The  old  church  of  Stavenisse 
contains  the  marble  monument  of  Jerome  van  Tuyll  (1669;  by 
Verhulst).  The  vessel  next  touches  at  Zype,  on  the  left,  at  the  end  of 
the  canal,  whence  an  omnibus  runs  to  Zierikzee  (Hotel  Van  Oppen); 
the  lofty  square  tower  of  the  cathedral  (begun  in  1454  by  Kelder- 
mans,  p.  244 ;  still  unfinished)  is  a  conspicuous  object.  From  Zierik- 
zee we  may  visit  Brouwershaven,  another  small  town  with  an  inter- 
esting church,  a  pretty  weigh-house  in  the  Flemish  Renaissance 
style  (1599),  and  a  statue  of  the  popular  poet  Jacob  Cats  (1577- 
1660).  —  To  the  right  is  the  island  of  Philippsland. 

In  1575  the  Canal  de  Keeten  was  the  scene  of  a  famous  exploit  by 
1700  Spanish  volunteers  under  Requesens,  the  successor  of  the  Duke  of 
Alva,  who  crossed  it  with  intrepid  bravery,  partly  by  wading  and  partly 
by  means  of  small  boats,  notwithstanding  the  incessant  and  galling  fire 
of  the  FlemivSh  defenders  of  the  island ,  many  of  whom  crowded  round 
the  assailants  in  boats.  The  capture  of  Zierikzee  was  the  reward  of  this 
determined  attack. 

We  now  quit  the  ramifications  of  the  Schelde,  and  enter  those 
of  the  Maas,  the  first  of  which  is  the  Krammer,  and  the  next  the 
Volkerak.  The  towers  of  Nieuxce-Tonge  and  Oude-Tonye  are  now 
visible  to  the  N.E.  The  right  bank  belongs  to  Brabant,  the  left  to 
Holland.  The  entrance  to  the  Hollandsch  Diep,  as  this  broad  arm 
is  named,  is  defended  by  two  blockhouses,  Fort  de  Ruyter  on  the 
right,  and  Fort  Ooltgensplaat  on  the  left.  Willemstad,  a  fortress 
with  walls  and  ramparts  erected  by  Prince  "William  I.  of  Orange  in 
1583,  next  becomes  visible.  In  1792  it  was  bombarded  by  the 
French  for  a  fortnight  without  success. 


LIERRE.  7  7.  Route.     175 

The  steamer  traverses  the  Hollandsch  Diep  for  some  distance.  The 
water  here  is  sometimes  pretty  rough.  Nearing  the  Moerdyk  (p.  172), 
we  ohtain  a  view  of  the  handsome  railway-bridge  which  crosses  the 
Diep  from  the  Moerdyk  to  Willemsdorp  (see  p.  376). 

The  steamer  now  turns  to  the  left  into  the  Dordsche  Kil,  a  very 
narrow  branch  of  the  Maas.  In  1711,  John  William,  Prince  of  Orange, 
was  drowned  in  crossing  the  Diep  at  the  Moerdyk,  when  on  his  way 
to  the  Hague  to  meet  Frederick  William  I.  of  Prussia,  with  a  view 
to  adjust  the  difficulties  of  the  Orange  succession.  Soon  after  we 
enter  the  broad  Merwede  (p.  374).  Numerous  wind-mills  and  tall 
chimneys  are  now  observed,  the  latter  belonging  chiefly  to  saw- 
mills and  cement  works.  Before  reaching  Dordrecht  the  steamer 
passes  below  the  railway-bridge  mentioned  at  p.  376. 

Dordrecht,  with  its  lofty  church-tower,  see  p.  376. 

The  steamer  (to  Rotterdam  1  hr.)  now  leaves  the  Merwede  and 
enters  a  side-channel  called  De  Noord.  On  the  right  are  Alblasser- 
dam,with  large  ship-building  yards,  and  Kinderdyk,  with  ship-build- 
ing yards  and  iron  foundries.  At  the  latter  the  Nord  unites  with 
the  Lek ,  which  now  resumes  the  name  of  Maas.  To  the  right, 
Krimpen,  with  a  pointed  spire;  left,  'f  Huis  ten  Donk,  a  handsome 
country-house  surrounded  with  trees;  left,  Ysselmonde  (p.  378), 
with  its  castle ;  right,  KrtiUngen,  with  12,000  inhab.,  extensively 
engaged  in  salmon-fishing ;  left,  the  large  machine-factory  of  Feyen- 
oord  (p.  255). 

Rotterdam,  see  p.  246. 

17.  From  Antwerp  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  via  Maastricht. 

91  M.  Railway  in  4i/2-5  hrs.  (fares  12  fr.  90,  9  fr.  90,  6  fr.  50  c. ; 
in  the  opposite  direction  10  marks  30,  7  m.  90,  5  m.  20  pf.).  The  Dutch 
custom-house  examination  takes  place  at  Maastricht^  the  German  at  Aix- 
la-Chapelle;  in  the  reverse  direction  the  Dutch  examination  is  made  at 
Simpel/elJ,  the  Belgian  at  Lanaeken. 

Antwerp,  see  p.  136.  51/2  M.  Bouchout.  —  81/2  M.  Lierre,  Flem. 
Lier  (Hot.  du  Commerce,  Grand'  Place,  R.,  L.,"&  A.  21/2,  B.  3/4, 
D.  2,  S.  11/4,  pens.  6  fr.),  a  town  of  16,700  inhab.,  with  several 
silk-factories.  The  Church  of  St.  Gommarius,  one  of  the  finest 
late -Gothic  churches  in  Belgium,  begun  in  1425,  completed  in 
1557,  contains  several  fine  stained-glass  windows,  three  of  which 
were  presented  by  the  Emp.  Maximilian  ;  two  paintings  by  Rubens 
(St.  Francis  and  St.  Clara);  the  'chasse'  of  St.  Gommarius;  and  a 
rood-loft  (15th  cent.)  in  the  florid  Flamboyant  style.  The  fa  (jades 
of  the  Brouwershuis  and  other  houses  in  the  market-place,  and  the 
belfry  with  a  turret  (1369)  are  interesting.  The  new  Museum  con- 
tains about  500  paintings,  bequeathed  to  the  town  by  Mme.  van 
Kampen-Wuyts.  Lierre  was  at  one  time  noted  for  its  beer.  Lierre 
is  the  junction  of  the  Antwerp  and  Gladbach  line  (R.  18J  and  of  a 
branch  to  Contich  (p.  135). 


176     Route  77.  HASSELT. 

14  M.  Berlaer.  167-2  ^-  Heyst-op-den-Berg,  whence  a  steam- 
tramway  runs  W.  to  Malines  and  E.  to  Iteghem  (p.  135).  '20'/2  M. 
Boisschot,  whence  visits  may  be  paid  to  the  chateau  of  Westerloo 
(41/2  ^^-  to  t^e  N.E.),  belonging  to  Count  von  Merode,  and  to  the 
Praemonstratensian  abbey  of  Tongerloo,  with  tlie  largest  linden- 
tree  in  Belgium.  —  251/2  ^f«  -AeTSchot  on  the  Deiner,  where  the 
railway  crosses  the  Louvain  and  Herenthals  line  (p.  195),  with  a 
Gothic  church  containing  a  rich  rood-loft  and  handsome  choir-stalls 
of  the  15th  cent.,  and  an  altar-piece  by  G.  de  Grayer. 

The  line  now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Demer.  Sl^/o  M.  Testelt, 
with  the  Priemonstratensian  abbey  of  Averbode^  founded  in  1130. 
3372  ^-  Sichem,  whence  omnibuses  run  to  the  pilgrimage-church 
of  (^172  ^1-)  ^otre  Dame  de  Montalgu.  Sichem  still  retains  one  of 
its  ancient  towers. 

3672  M.  Diest  (Hotel  de  la  Couronne;  Hot.  du  Sauvage),  with 
7300  inhab.,  and  many  breweries  and  distilleries.  In  the  Gothic 
church  of  St.  Sulpice  is  the  tomb  of  Philip  of  Nassau-Orange  (d. 
1618)  :  in  the  churchyard  is  a  ruined  church.  Diest  is  the  junction 
of  a  branch-line  from  Tirlemont  (p.  195)  to  Moll  (p.  177). 

The  train  crosses  the  Z>emer.  3972  M-  Zeelhem;  i'iM.  Schuelen  ; 
47  M.  Kermpt. 

491 '2  M.  Hasselt  (Hotel  du  Verre  u  Vin;  Hot.  Limbourg),  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  Limburg,  with  11,800  inhab.,  was  the 
scene  of  a  victory  gained  by  the  Dutch  over  the  Belgians  on  6th  Aug., 
1831.     The  late-Gothic  chief  church  has  been  well  restored. 

Fkom  Hasselt  to  Maaseyck,  25'/2  M. ,  railway  in  I1/4  lir.  Inter- 
mediate stations:  Genck,  Asch,  Eelen.  —  The  small  town  of  Maaseyck  (I/6t. 
de  VAgneau),  on  tbe  left  bank  of  the  Meuse,  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
brothers  Van  Euck,  to  whom  a  handsome  marble  monument  was  erected 
here   in  1864.     Diligence    several   times   daily  to  (1  hr.)  Susteren  (p.  3T2). 

From  Hasselt  to  LUge,   see  R.  49;  to  Eindhoven  and  Utrecht,  see  R.  49. 

531/2  J^l-  Diepenbeek ;  56  M.  Beverst,  the  junction  of  the  line  to 
Liege  and  Utrecht  (p.  360);  5872  M.  Munsterbilsen ;  61  M.  Eygen- 
bilsen;  63  M.  Lanaeken,  the  Belgian  frontier-station. 

68  M.  Maastricht,  see  p.  219.  Route  to  Liege,  see  R.  28.  The 
Meuse  is  crossed  here. 

71  M.  Meersen;  75  M.  Valkenburg,  French  Fauquemont  [Hotel 
de  I'Empereur,  in  the  town  ;  Hot.  Vossen,  at  the  station),  an  attrac- 
tive little  town,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  picturesque  valley  of 
the  Geul  and  frequented  as  a  summer-resort,  with  an  interesting 
Romanesque  church,  two  well-preserved  gates,  and  a  ruined  castle 
(10  c).  In  the  'Grosse  Berg'  opposite  the  station  are  some  inter- 
esting caves  resembling  those  in  the  Petersberg  (p.  220).  Tickets 
of  admission  are  obtained  (1*  2  ^-  for  one  or  more  pers.)  in  the  ad- 
■  joining  restaurant.  79  M.  Wylre;  8272^1-  Simpelfeld,  with  the 
Dutch  custom-house. 

91  M.  Aix-Ia-Chapelle,  see  Baedeker's  Rhine. 


177 

18.    From  Antwerp  to  Miinclieii-Gladbach 

{for  Dilsseldorf) . 

98'/2  M.  Railway  in  441/2  brs.  (.fares  14  fr.  60,  11  fr.  30,  7  fr.  40  c. ; 
in  the  opposite  direction  11  m.  80,  9  m.  25,  5  m.  10  pf.)- 

From  Antwerp  to  (8Y2  M.)  Leerre,  see  R.  17.  11  M.  Nylen ; 
15  M.  Bouwel. 

187.2^1-  Herenthals,  on  the  Canal  de  la  Campine,  the  junction 
of  the  line  to  Louvain  (p.  197)  and  Tilburg  (p.  375).  The  Hotel 
de  Yille,  with  a  lofty  tower,  and  one  of  the  old  town  gates  are  inter- 
esting. The  church  o{  St.  Waltrudis  (15th  cent.)  contains  paintings 
by  Yerhaeghe  and  Franck  the  Elder.  —  2'2'/2  ^1.  Oolen. 

'26  M.  Gheel  (Hotel  de  VAgneau),  a  town  of  10,000  inhab., 
which  derives  its  principal  interest  from  the  colony  of  lunatics 
(about  1300  in  number)  established  here  and  in  the  neighbouring 
villages.  The  district  throughout  which  they  are  distributed  is 
about  30  M.  in  circumference,  and  divided  into  four  sections,  each 
with  a  physician  and  keeper.  The  patients  are  first  received  into 
the  Infirmerie,  where  their  symptoms  are  carefully  observed  for  a 
time,  after  which  they  are  entrusted  to  the  care  of  a  nourricier,  or 
hote,  who  generally  provides  occupation  for  them.  They  are  per- 
mitted to  walk  about  without  restraint  within  the  limits  of  their 
district,  unless  they  have  shown  symptoms  of  violence  or  a  desire 
to  escape.  This  excellent  and  humane  system,  although  appre- 
hensions were  at  one  time  entertained  as  to  its  safety ,  has  always 
been  attended  with  favourable  results.  —  The  handsome  late- 
Gothic  Church  of  St.  Dymphna  (who  is  said  to  have  been  an  Irish 
princess  ,  converted  to  Christianity ,  and  beheaded  at  this  spot  by 
her  heathen  father)  contains  a  fine  *Altar,  with  the  apotheosis  of 
the  saint.  The  choir  contains  the  fine  marble  sarcophagus  of  Jan  III. 
of  Merode  and  his  wife,  dating  from  the  Renaissance  (1554);  and 
in  the  ambulator/  is  the  reliquary  of  the  saint,  painted  with  scenes 
from  her  life,  probably  by  a  contemporary  of  Memling.  In  the 
choir-chapels  are  two  curious  old  *Cabinets,  adorned  with  finely- 
executed  carving  and  painting.  A  painted  group  in  stone,  protected 
by  a  railing,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  church,  bears  a  Flemish  inscrip- 
tion, recording  that  St.  Dymphna  was  beheaded  on  this  spot,  30th 
May,  600.  The  town  originally  owed  its  reputation  for  the  success- 
ful cure  of  lunatics  to  this  saint,  whose  shrine  was  believed  to  pos- 
sess miraculous  powers.  The  church  of  St.  Amand^  in  the  market- 
place, contains  finely  carved  choir-stalls. 

32  M.  Moll,  the  junction  of  a  line  to  Diest  and  Tirlemont  (see 
p.  176).  —  35  M.  Baelen-Wezel;  41  M.  Lommel. 

46V2  ^1-  iSeerpelt,  the  junction  of  the  Hasselt- Utrecht  line 
(p.  360).  —  49  M.  Lille-St.  Hubert- Achel.  —  52  M.  Hamont, 
the  last  Belgian  station  (custom-house).  —  At  (53(0  ^0  Budel, 
the  first  station  in  Holland,  luggage  is  examined  by  Dutch  custom- 
house officers.  —  59  M.  Weert;  67  M.  Baexem ,-  70  M.  Haelen. 

Baeuekeu  3  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  12 


178    Route  19.  BRAINE-LE-COMTE. 

74  M.  Boermond,  the  junction  for  the  Maastricht-Venlo  line, 
see  p.  372. 

78  M.  Melick-Herkenbosch.  —  82V2  M.  Vlodrop,  the",last  station 
in  Holland,  with  the  Dutch  custom-house.  —  841/2  M.  Dalheim, 
the  Prussian  frontier  -  station  (luggage  examined).  —  89  M.  Weg- 
herg ;  92  M.  Rheindahlen ;  96  M.  Rheydt,  where  the  line  to  Aix-la- 
Chapelle  diverges  to  the  right. 

9872  M.  Gladbach,  or  Miinchen-  Gladbach,  see  Baedeker's  Rhine. 

19.    From  Brussels  to  Braine-le-Comte  and  Mons. 

38  M.  Railway  in  1  hr.  3  min.  or  2  hrs.  (fares  4  fr.  65,  3  fr.  50,  2  fr. 
35  c. ;  express  5  fr.  80,  4  fr.  35,  2  fr.  90  c).  Trains  start  from  the  Station 
du  Midi  at  Brussels  (p.  72). 

From  Brussels  to  (9  M.)  Hal,  see  p.  70,  The  Mons  train  di- 
verges here  to  the  S.  from  the  Tournai  line  (R.  11).  —  10  M.  Lem- 
becq  (branch-line  to  Ecaussines,  see  p.  181).  12  M.  Tubize,  Flem. 
Tweebeek  ,  is  the  junction  of  branch-lines  to  Rognon  (p.  181)  and 
Braine-V Alleud  (p.  130).  Paving-stones  are  largely  exported  from 
the  quarries  near  Tubize.  Tunnel.    15  M.    Hennuyeres. 

19  M.  Braine-le-Comte,  Flem.  '*S  Graven  Brakel,  a  town  with 
7300  inhabitants.  The  parish-church  contains  a  large  altar-deco- 
ration, with  numerous  figures,  resembling  that  of  Hal  (p.  70),  but 
inferior  and  of  later  date.  Braine-le-Comte  is  the  junction  of  the 
Enghien-Grammont-Ghent  (p.  181),  the  Manage-Charleroi(p.  182), 
and  the  Brussels-Erquelinues  lines,  which  last  follows  the  direction 
described  in  R.  20  to  station  Ecaussines,  and  then  proceeds  to  the  S. 
via  Houdeng,  Haine-St.  Pierre,  and  Faurceulx.  From  Braine-le- 
Comte  to  Erquelinnes,  26  M.  —  The  next  station  in  the  direction  of 
Jurbise  and  Mons  is  — 

221/2  M.  Soignies,  a  town  with  7900  inhab.,  possessing  a  vener- 
able abbey-church  (St.  Vincent)  in  the  Romanesque  style,  perhaps 
the  most  ancient  building  in  the  kingdom,  founded  about  650,  and 
erected  in  its  present  form  in  the  12th  century.  Many  of  the  tomb- 
stones in  the  churchyard  date  from  the  13th  and  14th  centuries. 
Extensive  quarries  of  mountain-limestone  in  the  neighbourhood.  — 
Branch-line  to  Houdeng  and  Haine-St.  Pierre  (p.  181). 

The  line  then  describes  a  wide  curve,  in  a  direction  nearly 
opposite  to  that  of  Mons.  26  M.  Neufvilles ;  Tl^j^  M.  Masnuy. 
301/2  M.  Jurbise,  where  the  connecting  lines  to  Ath-Tournai  (p.  69) 
and  St.  Ghislain  (p.  180)  diverge. 

38  M.  Mens.  —  Hotels.  Coukonne,  in  the  market,  D.  2  fr. ;  Hotkl 
ScHMiTZ,  MoNAKQUE,  AvESiK,  all  near  the  station  and  very  unpretending. 
—  Cafi  Royal;  Cafi  Rubens;  Taverne  AlUmande  (iHnnichhetr),  etc.;  all  in 
the  market.  —  Steam  -  Tramways  via  Nimy  and  Maisi^ret  to  Casteau;  to 
St.  Symphorien;  and  to  Ghlin. 

Mons,  Flem.  Bergen,  on  the  Trouille ,  the  capital  of  Hainault, 
with 25, 800 inhab.,  owes  its  origin  to  a  fortress  erected  hereby  Ciesar 
during  his  campaigns  against  the  Gauls.  The  town  was  fortified  by 


MONS.  19.  Route.     179 

Jean  d'Avesnes  in  the  14th  century.  Prince  Louis  of  Orange  took 
Mons  by  surprise  on  24th  May,  1572,  and  maintained  it  against  the 
Duke  of  Alva  till  19th  September,  thus  giving  the  northern  provin- 
ces an  opportunity  of  shaking  off  the  Spanish  yoke.  The  town  was 
captured  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1691,  restored  to  the  Spaniards  in  1697, 
and  again  occupied  by  the  French  from  1700  to  1707.  It  fell  into 
the  possession  of  Austria  in  1714,  and  was  twice  afterwards  taken 
by  the  French,  in  1746  and  1792.  The  fortifications,  which  were 
dismantled  by  the  Emp.  Joseph  II.,  but  reconstructed  in  1818,  were 
again  removed  in  1862,  and  their  site  converted  into  a  pleasant 
promenade.  In  the  promenade,  near  the  station,  rises  a  Statue  of 
Leopold  /.,  by  Simonis,  erected  in  1877. 

The  most  interesting  edifice  at  Mons  is  the  late-Gothic  Cathb- 
DRAL  OF  St.  Waltrudis  (Ste.  Waudru),  situated  on  the  left  as  the 
town  is  entered  from  the  station.  It  was  begun  about  1450  from  a 
design  by  Matthew  de  Layens,  the  architect  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville 
at  Liege,  and  his  assistant  Gilles  Pole.  The  choir  was  completed  in 
1502,  the  transept  in  1519,  and  the  nave  in  1589  (with  finishing 
touches  added  in  1621).  The  projected  tower  was  never  built,  and 
the  church  possesses  only  a  small  spire  above  the  crossing  and  Gothic 
turrets  on  the  transept.  The  exterior  was  formerly  somewhat  dis- 
figured by  later  additions,  but  these  have  been  removed  and  the 
building  skilfully  restored  within  the  last  40  years. 

The  Interior,  which  is  355  ft.  long,  116  ft.  wide,  and  80  ft.  high,  is 
a  model  of  boldness  and  elegance.  The  slender  clustered  columns,  60  in 
number,  are  without  capitals,  rising  immediately  to  the  vaulting  and 
keystones.  The  church  contains  several  monumental  reliefs  of  the  15th  and 
16th  centuries,  those  of  the  latter  period  being  by  Jacob  Duhrceucq;  some 
good  stained  glass  of  1523  (Crucilixion,  Maximilian  and  his  son  Philip  the 
Handsome;  Flight  into  Egypt,  with  Maximilian's  wife,  Mary  of  Burgundy, 
his  daughter  Margaret,  and  their  patron-saints),  restored  by  Capronnier; 
and  several  pictures  by  Vaenius,  Van  Thulden,  and  other  artists.  A  chapel 
in  the  ambulatorj',  to  the  left,  contains  a  handsome  altar  of  the  middle 
of  the  16th  cent.,  with  reliefs  from  the  life  of  Mary  Magdalene. 

Traversing  the  Rue  des  Clercs,  opposite  the  choir  of  the  cathe- 
dral, and  then  ascending  to  the  left  and  passing  through  a  gateway, 
we  reach  the  highest  ground  in  the  town ,  formerly  crowned  with 
fortifications  on  the  alleged  site  of  Caesar's  Castrum,  and  now  laid 
out  as  a  promenade.  Fine  views  of  the  busy  environs  of  Mons.  To 
the  right  rises  the  Beffroi,  or  belfry,  275  ft.  high,  belonging  to  the 
old  palace,  which  is  now  fitted  up  as  a  lunatic  asylum.  The  tower, 
which  is  the  only  belfry  in  Belgium  built  entirely  in  the  Renais- 
sance style,  was  erected  in  1662  from  a  design  by  Louis  Ledoux, 
and  was  restored  in  1864  by  Sury.  It  contains  a  'carillon',  or  set  of 
chimes.     Adjacent  is  the  reservoir  of  the  city  waterworks. 

The  centre  of  the  town  is  formed  by  the  Grande  Place,  in  which 
rises  the  *H6tel  ub  Villb,  a  tasteful  late-Gothic  edifice,  erected 
in  1458-67,  but  never  quite  completed.  The  slated  roof  was  added 
in  1606,  the  rococo  tower  by  Louis  Ledoux  in  1662.  The  small 
wrought-iron  ape  on  the  staircase  to  the  left  of  the  main  entrance 

12* 


180   Route  19.  MONS. 

probably  once  formed  part  of  a  tavern-sign,  but  is  now  regarded  as 
one  of  the  emblems  of  the  town.    The  courtyard  is  interesting. 

Interior.  One  room  contains  a  collection  of  portraits  of  eminent 
natives  of  Mons.  The  Gothic  Room,  recently  restored  with  little  success, 
is  embellished  with  three  large  paintings  of  scenes  from  the  history  of 
the  town,  by  Faternostre,  Modeste  Carlier,  and  Hennebicq.  Another  room 
is  adorned  with  tapestry  after  Teniers. 

On  the  right  and  left  of  the  Hotel  de  Yille  are  two  buildings 
with  Renaissance  facades ,  i\iQ  Maison  de  la  Toison  ctOr  and  the 
chapel  of  St.  George.  —  A  grand  fete,  called  'La  Parade  du  Li- 
ma^on'  or  'du  Lumson',  is  celebrated  in  the  Grande  Place  on  Trinity 
Sunday. 

The  Library^  in  the  Eue  des  Gades,  possesses  40,000  printed 
works  and  numerous  MSS.  adorned  with  miniatures.  The  same  build- 
ing contains  insignificant  collections  of  antiquities  and  paintings.  — 
The  church  of  St.  Elisabeth  presents  a  curious  mixture  of  the  Gothic 
and  Renaissance  styles. 

The  boulevards  and  promenades  that  surround  the  old  town 
are  about  3  M.  in  length.  Besides  the  statue  of  Leopold  L,  men- 
tioned at  p.  179,  they  contain  a  handsome  monument  by  Prison, 
erected  in  1853  to  the  memory  of  the  celebrated  composer  Orlando 
di  Lasso,  or  Roland  de  Lettre,  who  was  born  at  Mons  in  1520,  and 
an  equestrian  statue,  by  Jacquet,  of  Baldwin  IX.  of  Hainault  and 
Flanders  (d.  1205),  who  took  part  in  the  fourth  Crusade  and  be- 
came emperor  of  Constantinople.  Near  this  statue  is  a  public  garden 
called  Vauxhall  (adm.  i/2-l  ^J^O-  —  Among  the  buildings  on  the 
boulevards  are  a  large  Hospital,  a  Prison,  and  a  Normal  Seminary 
for  teachers  in  elementary  schools. 

Mons  is  the  centre  of  a  great  coal-mining  district,  known  as  Le 
Borinage.  The  annual  yield  of  the  mines  of  Hainault  amounts 
to  about  12  million  tons,  valued  at  120  million  francs,  while  the 
whole  yield  of  Belgium  does  not  exceed  16  million  tons.  Of  the 
100,000  miners  in  Belgium  three-fourths  belong  to  Hainault. 

A  general  snrvey  of  the  country  around  Mons  may  be  obtained 
by  taking  the  train  to  [I2V2  M. ;  in  40  min.)  Quievrain  (see  below) 
via  Jemappes ,  Quaregnon ,  St.  Ghislain  (once  the  seat  of  a 
wealthy  Bernardine  abbey,  now  a  centre  of  the  coal-trade),  Boussu 
(with  the  castle  of  that  name  to  the  right),  and  Thulin.  From 
Quievrain  we  return  to  Mons  via  Elouges,  Dour,  Warquignies,  Was- 
mes ,  Pdturages,  Flenu  (with  one  of  the  richest  coal-flelds) ,  and 
Cuesmes  (in  55  min.). 

At  Jemappes  (see  above),  Dumouriez,  with  an  army  of  50,0(X)  men, 
defeated  22,000  Austrians  under  the  Duke  of  Saxe-Teschen,  who  was  com- 
pelled to  retreat  beyond  the  Meuse,  6th  Nov.,  1792. 

Near  Malplaquet,  3  M.  to  the  S.E.,  Marlborough  and  Prince  Eugene 
gained  a  victory  over  the  French  in  1709,  but  not  without  a  loss  of  nearly 
20,000  men.  Iii  the  vicinity,  Pichegru  defeated  the  Duke  of  York  on 
18th  May,  1794,  capturing  60  guns  and  1500  men. 

From  Mons  to  Paris  there  are  two  railways.  The  more  direct  is  by 
Feignieg,  St.  Quentin,  Noyon,  Compiegne,  and  Creil  (160  M. ;  fares  30  fr.  10, 
22  fr.  60  c).     The  other  line  leads  via  St.  Ohislain,   QuiH-rain  (see  above; 


GRAMMONT.  20.  Route.     181 

Belgian  customs-examination),5/rt«c-i/tM«ron  (French  customs-examination), 
Valenciennes^  Douai^  Arras,  Longueau  (Amiens),  and  Creil  (177  M. ;  fares 
35  fr.  40,  26  fr.  55  c). 

From  ifons  to  Manage,  see  below. 

From  Moks  to  Charleroi,  SS'/z  M.,  railway  in  2  hrs.  (fares  4  fr.  35, 
3fr.  25,  2fr.  20  c.).  Stations  Cuesmes,  Hi/on,  Harmignies,  Estinnes;  (12i,2  M.) 
Faurceulx,  whence  a  branch-line  leads  to  Erquelinnes  (p.  178);  I31/2  M. 
Bonne-Esp4rance;  16  M.  Binche^  a  pretty  town  with  ToOOinhab.,  where  the 
female  part  of  the  community  is  chiefly  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
•fleurs  a  plat'  for  the  Brussels  lace-makers;  21  T/L.  Haine-Sl.  Pierre^  con- 
nected by  means  of  a  branch-line  with  La  Louviere  (see  below).  Near 
(23  31.)  Mariemont  are  the  ruins  of  a  chateau  erected  by  the  regent  Mary  of 
Hungary  in  1548,  but  burned  down  six  years  later  by  Henry  II.  of  France, 
and  a  modern  chateau.  Si&.\\ons'Morlanwelz,  Carniires,  Piiton  (branch-lines 
to  Manage,  see  below ;  to  Luttrc,"  see  p.  130 ;  and  to  Fauroeulx  via  Merbes-Sle. 
Marie^  see  above).  Fontaine  VEveque.  Marchienne.  and  Charleroi  (see  p.  183). 

20.  From  Ghent  to  Charleroi  and  Namur  via 
Braine-le-Comte. 

Railway  to  Charleroi  (661/2  M.)  in  2' '2-33/4  hrs.  (fares  8  fr.,  6  f r  ,  4  fr.); 
to  Namur  (89'/2M.)  in  3>/4-5V2  hrs.  (10  fr.  5,  7  fr.  55,  4  fr.  i5c.> 

Ghent,  see  p.  34.  The  train  crosses  tlie  Schelde,  and  beyond 
Meirelbeke  and  Melle  diverges  to  the  S.  from  the  Brussels  line  [R.  3). 
The  first  stations  are  unimportant. 

14  M.  Sotteghem,  where  the  railway  crosses  the  Brussels  and 
Courtrai  line  (p.  33). 

151/2  M-  Erweteghem ;  IS'/o  M.  Lierde-Ste.  Marie. 

221/2 ^1-  Grammont,  Flem.  Gheeraardsbergen,  an  industrial  place 
with  9200  inhab.,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  the  junction  of  the -Denrfer- 
leeuw  -  Ath-Jurbise  line  (p.  69).  The  Hotel  de  Ville  contains  an 
early-Flemish  painting  of  Christ  as  the  Judge  of  the  earth,  and  the 
church  of  St.Barthelemy  possesses  two  pictures  by  De  Crayer. 

The  train  enters  the  province  of  Hainault.  Stations  Viane- 
Moerbeke,  Gammerages ,  Herinnes.  At  (33  M.)  Enghien  (p.  70) 
our  line  is  crossed  by  the  Brussels  and  Tournai  railway  ( R.  11). 
From  (37  >I.)  Rognon  a  branch  diverges  to  Tubize  (p.  178). 

40 '/2  M.  Braine-le-Comte  (p.  178).  The  line  to  Charleroi  and 
Namur  now  diverges  from  that  to  Mons  (R.  19).  Carriages  are 
sometimes  changed  here. 

4472  ^1-  Ecaussines  possesses  extensive  quarries  of  blue  lime- 
stone, which  is  cut  in  slabs  and  exported  under  the  name  of  Flemish 
granite.  Of  the  two  castles  here,  the  most  picturesque  is  the  Chateau 
de  Lalaing  (10th  cent.),  situated  on  a  precipitous  cliff.  Railways 
hence  to  Fauroeulx  and  Erquelinnes  and  to  Lembecq  (p.  178). 
Beyond  Marche-les- Ecaussines  and  Familleureux  the  train  crosses 
the  Charleroi  Canal,  and  near  Manage  enters  a  rich  coal-district. 

50  M.  Manage  is  the  junction  of  our  line  with  those  to  Mons, 
Pie'ton  ( see  above),  and  Ottignies. 

From  SIanage  to  Moxs,  15  M. ,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  1  fr.  85,  1  fr. 
40,  95  c).  This  branch-line  intersects  a  valuable  coal-field,  called  'Le 
Centre\  the  yield  of  which  is  brought  into  the  market  by  means  of  an 
extensive  network  of  railways.     In  connection  with   the  coal-mines  there 


182     Route  20.  QUATREBRAS.  From  Ghent 

is  a  rapidly  increasing  iron-industry.  Stations  La  LouvUre  ("branch  to 
Haine-St.  Pierre^  see  p.  181),  Bois-du-Luc,  Bracquegnies,  all  with  extensive 
mines;  then  Havri^  where  the  old  chateau  of  that  name  rises  to  the  left, 
Obourg^  noted  for  its  tobacco,  and  iVmy.  The  Jlaiiie,  a  rivulet  from  vrhich  the 
province  derives  its  name  (Eainault),  is  occasionally  visible.  ifon«,seep.  178. 

The  Manage  and  Wavke  Railway  (26  M.,  in  l'M-2hrs.;  fares  3  fr. 
10,  2  fr.  35,  1  fr.  55  c.)  is  the  prolongation  of  this  line  to  the  N.,  but  the 
trains  do  not  always  correspond.  At  (2V2  31.)  Seneffe  a  battle  was  fought 
in  1674  between  Prince  Conde  and  William  III.  of  Orange ;  and  the  Austrians 
were  defeated  here  by  the  French  under  Marceau  and  Olivier  on  2nd  July, 
1794.  —  5  M.  Fehty-Avquennes. 

8V2  M.  Nivelles-Nord,  to  the  N.  of  Nivelles  (p.  130) ;  91/2  M.  Bavlers,  the 
junction  of  this  line  with  that  from  Brussels  to  Luttre  and  Charleroi  (p.  130). 

14  M.  Genappe  (Hdtel  des  Voi/ageurs),  a  village  with  1680  inhab.,  is 
frequently  mentioned  in  connection  with  the  Battle  of  Waterloo  (comp. 
p.  116).  About  4  M.  to  the  S.  is  situated  Q,uatrebras,  which  derives  its 
name  from  the  'four  arms'  of  the  roads  diverging  hence  to  Charleroi, 
Nivelles,  Brussels,  and  Namur.  Here  on  16th  June,  1815,  a  battle  was 
fought  between  Ney's  division  and  a  part  of  the  British  army  with  its  Ger- 
man and  Belgian  contingents.  The  French  numbered  about  17,000  men, 
the  Allies  18,000;  but  of  the  latter  8000  only  were  British  and  German, 
and  on  the  remaining  10,000  no  reliance  whatever  could  be  placed.  Practi- 
cally, therefore,  the  Allies  were  far  outnumbered.  At  first,  shortly  after 
2  p.m.,  the  success  of  the  French,  who  were  opposed  by  the  Belgians 
only,  was  complete;  but  their  progress  was  soon  arrested  by  the  British 
and  German  troops,  and  the  battle  raged  with  the  utmost  fury  till  dusk. 
Prodigies  of  valour  were,  as  usual,  performed  by  the  93rd  Highlanders ; 
and  most  of  the  German  troops  (Hanoverians  and  Brunswickers)  behaved 
with  great  bravery,  although  young  and  inexperienced.  At  one  juncture 
the  Duke  of  Wellington  himself  became  involved,  and  only  escaped  by 
putting  his  horse  to  full  gallop.  About  4  o'clock  the  gallant  Duke  of 
Brunswick  fell,  while  endeavouring  to  rally  his  troops.  Towards  the 
close  of  the  battle  the  tide  of  success  turned  decidedly  in  favour  of  the 
Allies.  Ney,  to  his  great  indignation,  now  learned  that  Erlon's  corps, 
which  had  at  first  been  ordered  to  support  him ,  and  would  doubtless 
have  ensured  the  victory  to  the  French,  had  received  fresh  orders  from 
Napoleon  to  move  towards  St.  Amand  to  oppose  the  Prussians  there. 
The  brave  marshal's  discomfiture  was  complete,  his  troops  were  totally 
defeated,  and  under  cover  of  the  increasing  darkness  they  retreated  to 
their  original  position  at  Frasne. 

The  village  of  Frasne,  the  headquarters  of  Ney  on  16th  June,  lies 
8/4  M.  beyond  Quatrebras,  in  the  direction  of  Charleroi.  The  spirited 
pursuit  of  the  French  by  the  Prussians  on  the  night  after  the  Battle  of 
Waterloo  extended  thus  far,  more  than  6  M.  from  the  battle-field. 

The  ruined  abbey  of  Villers  (p.  202)  lies  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Genappe. 

I6V2  M.  Bousval;  I8V2  M.  Noirhat;  20'/2  M.  Court  St.  Etienne  (p.  202), 
where  the  train  reaches  Charleroi  the  and  Louvain  line.  2272  M.  Ottignies. 
Thence  to  Wavre  and  Louvain,  see  p.  202. 

Beyond  Manage  are  stations  Godarville,  Gouy-lez-Pieton,  Pont- 
a-Celles,  and  [571/2  M.)  Luttre  [-p.  130).  The  train  traverses  a  more 
hilly  district,  describing  numerous  curves ,  and  crossing  the  Char- 
leroi Canal  several  times.  Beyond  a  deep  cutting,  a  beautiful  un- 
dulating and  wooded  district  is  entered.  Near  (61  M.)  Gosselies  is 
the  town  of  that  name  on  an  eminence  (branch  to  Courcelles  and 
Pieton,  p.  181];  62M.  Roux ;  681/2  M.  Marchienne,  near  which  lies 
the  ruined  Gothic  church  of  the  famous  abbey  of  Aulne.  Various 
adjacent  places  were  the  scene  of  sharp  skirmishes  between  the 
Prussians  and  French  on  15th  June,  1815,  the  day  before  the  battle 
oiLigny  (p.  20'2),  a  village  which  lies  41/2  M.  to  theN.E.  of  Gosselies. 


to  Namur.  CHARLEROI.  20.  Route.     183 

The  enylrons  of  Marchienne  and  Charleroi  are  remarkable  for 
their  picturesque  scenery  and  industrial  activity.  Wooded  hills, 
thriving  villages,  and  well-cultivated  fields  are  passed  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, while  the  lofty  chimneys  of  coal-mines,  furnaces ,  iron- 
foundries,  and  glass-works  are  seen  in  every  direction.  There  are  no 
fewer  than  seventy  different  seams  of  coal  in  the  vicinity  of  Char- 
leroi, some  of  which  extend  to  a  depth  of  3000  to  4000  ft.  The 
line  now  reaches  the  Sambre ,  which  it  crosses  repeatedly  before 
arriving  at  Namur. 

66 V2  M.  Chaxleroi  (* Hotel  Dourin;  Grand-Monarque;  Univers; 
Hot.  des  Etrangers,  plain),  a  town  with  20,900  inhab.,  the  central 
point  of  the  Belgian  iron  industry,  was  founded  by  Charles  II.  of 
Spain  in  1666,  in  honour  of  whom  the  name  (Charnoy)  of  the  vil- 
lage which  then  occupied  the  site  was  changed  to  Charleroi.  Under 
Louis  XIV.  it  was  fortified  by  Yauban.  In  1794  it  was  besieged  four 
times  by  the  French,  to  whom  it  was  ultimately  surrendered  on  the 
eve  of  the  Battle  of  Fleurus  (p.  203),  after  the  garrison  had  been 
reduced  to  the  utmost  extremities.  On  23rd  May,  1794,  the  French 
were  totally  defeated  here  by  the  Austrian  Gen.  Kaunitz,  who  cap- 
tured 25  guns  and  1300  prisoners.  The  fortifications  were  recon- 
structed in  1816,  but  are  now  converted  into  promenades.  Near  the 
station  is  a  prison  in  the  Gothic  style.  The  Musee  Archiologique, 
in  the  Boul.  de  I'Ouest,  contains  prehistoric,  Koman,  and  Frankish 
antiquities  found  in  this  district,  and  also  a  mineralogical  cabinet. 
The  church  of  St.  Antoine ,  in  the  lower  town  ,  contains  a  good 
example  of  the  native  painter  F.  J.  Navez  (d.  1869). 

Steam-tramways  unite  Charleroi  with  (5M.)  Montigny-Le  Tilleul;  (I3/4M.) 
Mont-sur- Marchienne ;  and  C2  M.)  Lodelinsavt  (p.  202). 

Charleroi  -  Erquelinnes  -  Paris,  in  6'/2-8  hrs.,  see  Baedeker^s  Paris. 

Charleroi-  Wavre- Louvain,  see  R.  25. 

Chablekoi-Vieeux,  401/2  M.,  in  2  hrs.  (fares  5  fr.  20,  3  fr.  90,  2  fr. 
60  c").  From  (12  M.)  Bevzie  branch-lines  diverge  via  ThuilUes  to  Beaumont 
and  Chimay  (see  below)  and  to  Laneffe;  from  (14  M.)  Walcourt,  which 
contains  an  ancient  Gothic  pilgrimage-church,  two  others  diverge  to  Florennes 
and  Philippeville  and  to  Morialmi.  —  29  M.  Mariembourg  (Hotel  du  Com- 
merce) with  the  chateau  and  park  of  M.  A.  Warveque.  The  Chasse  de 
St.  Maur,  in  the  chapel  of  the  chateau,  a  Romanesque  reliquary  of  the 
12th  cent.,  is  the  oldest  art-work  of  the  kind  in  Belgium.  From  Mariem- 
bourg a  branch-railway  leads  to  the  ancient  little  town  of  Couvin  {Hdt.  du 
Chemin  de  Fer,  well  spoken  of):  and  another  to  Hastihre  (p.  189)  via  (10  M.) 
Chimay  (/f(5<.  de  V Univers;  duCommerce ;  Eglem;  de  la  Gave;  Bellevue),  a 
town  with  3000  inhab.,  where  the  beautiful  park  and  chateau  of  the  prince 
of  that  name  are  situated  (visitors  admitted).  A  statue  of  Froissart,  the 
chronicler,  who  died  at  Chimay  in  1410,  has  been  erected  in  front  of  the 
Hotel  de  TUnivers.  —Among  the  hills  of  Scourmont,  6  M.  to  the  S.,  is  an 
interesting  model-farm  belonging  to  the  monastery  of  La  Trappe.  —  Then 
Nitmes  (Hotel  du  Cheval  Volant;  du  Commerce;  Rail.  Restaurant).  Kear 
the  station  is  the  striking  Roche  a  Lomme.  [A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken 
hence  in  the  valley  of  the  Viroi7i  to  (2  hrs.)  Olloy,  see  below.  On  a  steep 
rock  near  Dourbes  (Au  Lion  Beige)  is  the  ruin  of  ~Haute  Roche,  destroyed 
by  Henry  II.  in  1554;  fine  rock  scenery.]  —  Then  Olloif  (see  above)  and 
Vierves,  with  a  castellated  chateau.  —  4OV2  M.  Vireux,  the  French  fi-ontier- 
station,  lies  on  the  Meuse ,  above  the  fortress  of  Givet  (p.  190).  Beyond 
Vireux  the  line  proceeds  to  Rheims  and  Paris. 


1 84     Route  20,  NAMUR.  From  Ghent 

Beyond  Charleroi  the  Namur  train  crosses  the  Philippeville  road, 
and  passes  the  numerous  metal-works  oiMarcineUe,  (69  M.)  CouUlet, 
and  (71  M.)  Chdtelineau,  the  junction  of  the  lines  to  Fleurus  (p. 203), 
Jumet  (p.  130),  and  Givet.  In  the  church  of  St.  Barth^lemy  a  hand- 
some tomb  of  the  Merode  family.  Opposite  Chatelineau  lies  the 
busy  little  town  of  Chdtelet,  with  10,000  inhabitants. 

Chatelineao-Givet  ,  31  Va  M. ,  in  I3/4  hr.  (fares  3  fr.  80,  3  fr.,  1  fr. 
90  c.)  i  a  branch-line  traversing  a  busy  manufacturing  and  mining  district, 
via  Acoz  (branch  to  Mettet  ^  see  below),  Gerpinnes  (with  a  Roman  villa; 
in  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas  the  fine  Renai-^sance  reliquary  of  Ste.  Ro- 
lando), Oret  (Morialme),  Pavilions  (Stove),  etc.  DojscAe  is  the  last  Belgian, 
Givet  (p.  190)  the  first  French  station. 

The  mines  and  manufactories  gradually  disappear.  The  Sambre 
winds  through  beautiful  grassy  valleys,  sometimes  skirting  wooded 
hills.  To  the  right  of  (761/2  M.)  Tamines  is  situated  the  suppressed 
abbey  of  Ste.  Marie  d'Oignies,  now  an  extensive  mirror-manufactory. 

Fkom  Tamines  to  Fledkus  (p.  202),  5'/2  M.,  railway  in  about  20 minutes. 

Fkom  Tamines  to  Anhee,  25'/2  M.,  railway  in  IV2  hr.  The  chief 
stations  are  (IS'/a  M.)  Mettet  (Croix  de  Bourgogne),  junction  for  the  branch- 
line  to  Acoz  (p.  1831;  and  Deiiee-Maredsous,  with  a  Benedictine  convent 
built  in  1876  in  the  early  Gothic  style.  —  The  railway  is  being  continued 
beyond  (25'/2  M.)  Anhce,  on  the  Meuse,  to  Dinant  (p.  183). 

Stations  Auvelais.,  Jemeppe-sur-Samhre  (junction  of  a  line  to 
Tamines  and  Gembloux,  see  p.  202),  Moustier,  and  Franiere.  To 
the  right  of  (84  M.)  FLoreffe  (Hotel  du  Progres),  with  glass-works, 
picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence,  rises  a  seminary  for  priests, 
formerly  a  Prsemonstratensian  abbey.  About  3/^  M.  from  the  village 
are  stalactite  caves,  named  Grottes  de  Floreffe  (adm.  1-3  pers.  3  fr., 
each  additional  pers.  2fr.),  at  the  entrance  to  which  are  exhibited 
some  prehistoric  relics  and  Roman  coins.  The  Hotel  des  Grottes  de 
Floreffe  is  frequented  as  a  summer-resort.  Le  Preat,  the  hill  above 
the  grotto,  is  surmounted  by  an  old  castle,  partly  restored. 

To  the  left,  farther  on ,  are  the  abbey-buildings  of  Malonne, 
now  a  normal  school.  —  8672  M.  Flawinne.  The  valley  of  the 
Sambre  here  is  thickly  studded  with  ancient  chateaux,  modern  villas, 
and  manufactories. 

89 '/o  M.  Namur.  —  Hotels.  -Hotel  D'Hakscamp,  Marche  aux  Arbres  4 
(PI.  C,  3),  R.,  L.,  k  A.  33,4-10,  B.  11/4,  dej.  3,  D.  4  fr.  ;   Hotel  &  Restaur. 

DU  CAFfe  AlGRET  ;    HoTEL  DE  LA  MoNNAIE,  11.  2,    B.   1  fr.  ;    HoTEL  DE  FlANDKE, 

Coukonne,  well  spoken  of,  du  Nokd,  Rochee  dk  Cancale,  all  opposite 
the  station ,  with  cafe's-restaurants.  —  Cafi  Rubens,  Grande  Place.  —  -Re- 
staurant at  the  station. 

Cabs.  Per  drive  within  the  town,  or  to  the  station  or  steamboat-pier, 
1-2  pers.  1  fr.,  each  additional  person  25  c. ;  per  hr.  1  fr.  75  c,  each  ad- 
ditional Vz  lir.  75  c.  Between  9  p.  m.  and  (j  a.  m.  25  c.  extra.  —  To 
Marche-les-Dames  (p.  224),  and  back,  carr.  with  one  horse  6-8,  two  horses 
11-12  fr.;  to  Dinant  (p.  188),  with  two  horses,  25  fr. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  at  the  station  (PI.  B,  1). 

In  order  to  attract  visitors  the  corporation  organizes  numerous  enter- 
tainments during  the  summer-season,  including  concerts,  fire-works,  regat- 
tas, horse-races,  etc.  —  Good  river-baths  in  the  Meuse,  above  the  bridge. 

Xajnur,  Flem.  Namen,  the  capital  of  the  province,  with  28,700 
inhab.,  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Sambre,  which  is  crossed  by  sev- 


to  Namur.  NAMUR.  20.  Route.     185 

eral  stone  bridges,  and  the  Meuse.  From  fhe  natural  advantages 
of  its  position  Namur  has  always  been  a  point  of  strategic  impor- 
tance, and  it  was  fortified  at  an  early  period.  The  military  authori- 
ties have  resolved  to  fortify  this  town  on  the  modern  system  by  a 
circle  of  detached  forts.  The  numerous  sieges  it  has  undergone 
(Louis  XIV.  in  1692,  William  III.  in  1695)  have  left  few  of  the 
older  buildings.  Its  situation  however,  is  picturesque  enough  to 
warrant  a  short  stay  here,  with  which  may  be  coupled  a  ^isit  to  the 
attractive  valley  of  the  Meuse  (RR.  21,  29). 

In  front  of  the  station  ,  on  the  site  of  fortifications  removed  in 
1862,  isthe^3uareLeoi)oW(Pl.  CJ),  totheE.  of  which,  in  the  Place 
Le'opold,  rises  a  Statue  of  Leopold  I.  by  Geefs  (PL  24).  —  To  the 
W.  of  the  station  extends  the  Boulevard  Le'opold,  which  is  embell- 
ished with  a  Monument  to  Omalius  (PI.  23),  the  geologist  (d.  1875), 
and  leads  to  the  attractive  Pare  Louise  Marie  (PI.  A,  2),  whence 
views  of  the  citadel  and  the  suburb  of  Salzinnes  are  enjoyed. 

The  Cathedral  {St.  Auhin ,  or  St.  Alban-  Pi.  B,  2),  built  in 
1751-67  from  the  designs  of  Pizzoni,  a  Milanese  architect,  is  a 
handsome  Renaissance  edifice,  with  a  dome  and  a  fine  interior. 

At  the  sides  of  the  high-altar  are  statues  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  in 
marble,  by  Delvaux  (d.  1778),  from  whose  chisel  are  also  the  figures  of  the 
four  fathers  of  the  church,  Ambrose,  Gregory,  Jerome,  and  Augustine.  The 
left  transept  contains  the  marble  monument  of  a  Bishop  de  Pisani  (d.  1826), 
by  Paiinentiei'.  At  the  back  of  the  high-altar  is  a  tombstone  erected  by 
Alexander  Farnese  to  his  '■amatissimo  avunculo'  Don  John  of  Austria,  the 
conqueror  at  Lepanto.  who  died  in  his  camp  near  Bouge ,  3'4  M.  to  the 
N.E.  of  Xamur,  20th  Aug.,  1578;  his  body  was  removed  to  the  Escurial 
but  his  heart  remains  here.  The  pulpit,  carved  in  wood  by  Geerfs  (1848), 
shows  the  Madonna  protecting  the  city.  A  painting  of  Christ  in  the  choir 
is  afcribed  to  Van  Dyck.  The  treasury  cuntains  a  golden  crown  of  1429, 
set  with  precious  stones,  a  silver  statuette  of  St.  Blaise,  and  many  other 
objects  of  value. 

The  church  of  St.  Loup  (PI.  12  ;  C,  3),  situated  in  the  Rue  du 
College,  was  erected  in  the  baroque  style  in  1621-53.  The  interior 
is  borne  by  twelve  massive  pillars  of  red  marble.  The  choir  is  en- 
tirely covered  with  black  marble,  and  the  vaulted  ceiling  with  sculp- 
tures. A  large  hole  in  the  latter,  made  by  a  shell,  is  a  reminis- 
cence of  the  siege  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1692.  The  Athene  e  Royal  (PI.  2) 
was  formerly  a  Jesuit  monastery,  to  which  the  church  of  St.  Lupus 
belonged. 

In  the  Grande  Place  (PI.  C,  D,  3)  stand  the  buildings  of  the 
Societe  du  Casino  (PI.  6),  and  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  17),  built  in 
1830.  It  contains  the  office  of  the  Commandant  ( to  the  right  of  the 
main  entrance),  where  permission  may  be  obtained  to  visit  the  Ci- 
tadel fp.  186).  In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  Belfry,  restored  in 
the  16th  century.  Farther  to  the  E.  are  the  large  Hospice  d'Hars- 
camp  (PI.  16;  D,  3)  and  the  church  of  ^otre  Dame  (PI.  14),  the 
latter  containing  the  monuments  of  two  Counts  of  Namur  (d.  1391 
and  1418).  In  the  garden  of  the  hospice,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  tasteful  railing,  is  a  statue  of  its  foundress,  Isabella  Gabriele 


186   Route  20.  NAMUR. 

d'Harscamp  (PI.  22).  The  convent  of  the  Saurs  de  Notre  Dame, 
in  the  Rue  des  Fosses,  contains  a  rich  treasury,  shown  on  appli- 
cation to  the  superior.  —  On  the  Meuse  is  the  Cursaal,  where  con- 
certs take  place  in  summer. 

To  the  left  of  the  lowest  bridge  over  the  Sambre,  to  which  the 
Rue  du  Pont  leads  direct  from  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  is  the  hall  of  the 
Ancienne  Boucherie,  now  containing  the  *Musee  Archeologiqub 
(PI.  19;  D,  3),  an  extensive  and  admirably-arranged  collection  of 
antiquities,  chiefly  of  the  Roman  and  Prankish  periods.  The  ob- 
jects were  found  in  the  Roman  villa  at  Anthee,  in  the  Prankish 
burial-grounds  at  Purfooz  and  Samson,  and  in  the  Roman  burial- 
ground  at  Flavion,  where  a  large  quantity  of  enamelled  fibulaj  came 
to  light.  There  are  also  several  valuable  objects  both  of  earlier  and 
later  date.  The  museum  is  open  to  the  public  on  Sundays,  10-1; 
to  strangers  daily  on  payment  of  a  fee  (1-3  pers.  1  fr.). 

The  Citadel  (PI.  B,  C,  4;  adm.,  see  p.  185),  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Sambre,  between  that  river  and  tlie  Meuse,  is  believed  by 
many  authorities  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  camp  of  the  Aduatuci  de- 
scribed by  Caesar  (De.  Bell.  Gall.  ii.  29).  It  was  fortified  on  modern 
principles  by  Coehorn  (p.  246)  in  1691,  was  restored  in  1794,  and 
has  been  frequently  strengthened  since  1817.  The  summit  com- 
mands a  fine  *  View  of  the  valleys  of  the  Sambre  and  Meuse. 

An  old  stone  bridge  of  nine  arches  (PI.  C,  4),  470  ft.  long, 
crosses  from  the  quarter  below  the  citadel  to  the  suburb  of  Jambes 
(see  below),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Meuse.  There  is  here  a  small 
Zoological  Garden  (adm.  50  c. ;  concerts  in  summer). 

The  cutlery  of  Namur  enjoys  a  high  reputation,  and  is  said  to  be 
not  inferior  to  the  English. 

On  20fli  June,  1815,  the  Liege  and  Brussels  Gates  of  Namur  were  the 
scenes  of  hotly-contested  engagements  between  the  rear-guard  of  the  French 
corps  under  Grouchy  and  the  advancing  Prussians.  A  monument  in  the 
Churchyard^  about  IM.  bevond  the  Brussels  Gate,  was  erected  in  memory 
of  the  fallen  in  1857. 

Railway  to  Luxembourg  and  Treves,  see  R.  22 ;  to  Liege ,  see 
R.  29;  to  Tirlemont,  see  p.  195;  to  Dinant  and  Givet,  see  below. 

21.    From  Namur  to  Dinant  and  Givet. 

Railway  to  (IT'/a  M.)  Dinant  in  3/4-I  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  25,  1  fr.  70,  1  fr. 
10  c);  to  (31  M.)  Givet  in  IV2  hr.  (fares  4  fr.  5,  3  fr.  5,  2  fr.  5  c.).  The 
railway  aflbrds  but  little  view  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Meuse.  — 
Steamboat  in  summer  from  Namur  to  Dinant;  fares  1  fr.  70  c,  i  fr.  (comp. 
the  Guide  Oflicicl).  —  The  left  bank  of  the  river  is  recommended  to 
pedestrians.  The  village -inns  on  the  banks  of  the  river  are  generally 
good,  but  are  often  full  in  summer. 

The  valley  of  the  Meuse  above  Namur  is  narrow  ,  and  enclosed 
by  wooded  hills  and  frowning  cliffs.  The  banks  are  enlivened  with 
picturesque  villages  and  country-houses.  Immediately  after  quitting 
the  station,  the  train  crosses  the  Meuse,  remaining  on  the  right  bank 
until  Dinant  is  nearly  reached.    2  M.  Jambes  (see  above). 


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BOUVIGNE.  21.  Route.    187 

5M.  Dave,  -with  an  ancient  chateau  (restored)  and  park  belong- 
ing to  the  duke  of  Fernan-Nunez  (adm.  on  application  to  the  head- 
gardener)  ,  near  which  rises  the  huge  and  precipitous  Rocher  de 
Neviau.  On  the  opposite  (left)  bank  is  Wt'pion  (Depaive).  —  The 
train  passes  below  the  quarries  and  rocks  of  TaiUefer  and  Frene, 
and  beyond  a  tunnel  reaches  (81/0  M.)  Lustin ,  which  is  connected 
by  an  iron  bridge  with  Pro  fonder  tile  and  the  marble  quarries  on  the 
left  bank.  The  village  of  Lustin  lies  l^'o  M.  from  the  station, 
555  ft.  above  the  river.  Farther  on,  on  the  left  bank,  appear  Bur- 
not  (Bouchat)  and  Riviere,  with  a  chateau.  —  On  the  right  bank, 
by  the  railway,  is  the  rock  Frappe-Cul,  with  the  cavern  of  Chauveau. 
—  IO1/2  M.  Godinne  (Genot).  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  river  is 
Rouillon ,  with  the  chateau  of  M.  de  Montpellier.  The  numerous 
towers  of  the  well-preserved  castle  of  Bioulx  (16th  cent.)  rise  3  M. 
to  the  W.  The  scenery  between  Rouillon  and  Dinant  is  remarkably 
picturesque.  Above  tlie  village  rises  a  precipitous  tuflfstone-rock, 
named  La  Roche  aux  Corneilles  ('Roche  aux  Chauwes'  in  the  patois 
of  the  district),  from  the  flocks  of  jackdaws  which  generally  hover 
round  it.  Then,  also  on  the  left  bank,  the  chateau  of  Hun,  with  a 
park.     A  tunnel  carries  the  line  through  the  Rocher  de  Faulx. 

121/2  ^1-  Yvoir  (Hotel  des  Touristes;  Hot.  du  Xord),  at  the  influx 
of  the  Bocq,  is  connected  by  means  of  a  handsome  new  bridge  with 
Moulins  (Hot.  de  la  Roche) ,  on  the  opposite  bank,  a  suppressed 
Cistercian  Abbey  converted  into  a  foundry. 

About  6  M.  farther  up  the  Bocq  is  the  chateau  of  Sponlin  (Linchant's 
Inn),  of  the  17th  cent,  (one  of  the  towers,  13th  cent.),  formerly  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Beaufort-Spontin  family.  Thence  a  road  continues  to  folJow 
the  picturesque  valley  via  Vingon  to  (3M.)Natoye  (p.  191)  or  to  (2M.)i/'ow.^^rm 
(p.  191).  —  About  3  M.  up  the  valley  of  the  Floye,  which  opens  at  Moulins, 
is  the  ruined  castle  of  ^Montaigle,  the  finest  relic  of  the  kind  in  Belgium. 
Here  also  are  the  Grotte  du  Siireau  and  other  prehistoric  caves.  About 
3  31.  to  the  W.  is  the  Benedictine  monastery  of  Maredsous  (p.  184). 

The  railway  crosses  the  Meuse,  quitting  the  right  bank  on  which 
is  Poilvache,  with  the  ruins  of  a  fortress  on  a  lofty  rock,  destroyed 
by  the  French  in  1554.  Somewhat  higher  up  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Tour  de  Monay.  —  Farther  on  we  pass  Bouvigne  (Hot.-Rest.  Delens- 
Gilson),  one  of  the  most  venerable  towns  in  the  district,  which  was 
formerly  engaged  in  constant  feuds  with  Dinant,  but  has  now  dwind- 
led down  to  a  mere  village.  The  old  ruined  tower  of  Crevecoeur  is 
a  conspicuous  object  here.  A  romantic  story  attaches  to  it  in  con- 
nection with  the  siege  of  the  town  by  the  French  in  1554.  Three 
beautiful  women  are  said  to  have  entered  the  tower  with  their  hus- 
bands, who  formed  part  of  the  garrison,  resolved  to  participate  in 
the  defence  and  to  animate  the  defenders  by  their  presence.  The 
latter,  however,  after  a  heroic  resistance,  perished  to  a  man,  the 
three  unhappy  widows  being  the  sole  survivors.  Determined  not 
to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  enraged  and  brutal  soldiery,  they  threw 
themselves  from  the  summit  of  the  tower  in  sight  of  the  besiegers, 
and  were  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below. 


188   Route  21.  DINANT.  From  Namur 

171/2  M.  Dinant.  —  Hotels.  *H6tel  des  Postes,  pleasantly  situated, 
near  the  station,  R.  &  L.  24,  B.  l'/4,  D.  3,  A.  3/4,  'pens."  8-10  fr. ;  Belle- 
VUE  (same  proprietor),  at  the  bridge,  with  restaurant,  R.  &  B.  from  2, 
pens.  6-7  fr.  ;  'TAte  d"Or,  with  terraced  garden,  R.,  L.,  <fc  A.  2V4-33/4, 
B.  1,  dcj.  21/2,  D.  3,  'pens.'  7V2  fr.  •,  Hotel  des  Ardennes;  Hotel  de 
l'Edrope.  —  Taveme  Anglaise,  on  the  road  to  Rivage,  English  beer.  — 
Dr.  WUliam't  Hi/dropathic  EstaUithment. 

Carriage  to  Freyv  (p.  189),  with  one  horse  5,  two  horses  8  fr.-,  to  Mon- 
taigle  (p.  187),  15  or  20  fr. 

Dinant^  a  town  with  6400  inhab.,  is  very  picturesquely  situated 
at  the  base  of  barren  limestone  cliffs,  which  are  crowned  by  a  fortress. 
An  iron  bridge,  commanding  a  fine  view,  crosses  the  river  to  the 
suburb  of  St.  Medard  on  the  left  bank,  with  the  railway  station. 

In  1467  the  inhabitants  of  Dinant,  having  roused  the  anger  of 
Philippe  le  Bon,  Duke  of  Burgundy  ,  by  acts  of  insubordination, 
paid  dearly  for  their  temerity.  The  Duke,  accompanied  by  his  son 
Charles  the  Bold ,  who  succeeded  him  a  few  years  later ,  marched 
against  the  town,  besieged  and  took  it,  and  treated  the  townspeople 
with  great  cruelty.  He  is  said  to  have  caused  800  of  them  to  be 
drowned  in  the  Meuse  before  his  own  eyes.  The  unfortunate  town 
was  pillaged  and  burned,  and  the  walls  demolished.  In  1554 
a  similar  fate  overtook  it,  when  it  was  taken  by  storm  by  the  French 
under  the  Due  de  Nevers,  and  plundered.  In  1675  the  town  was 
again  taken  by  the  French.  The  'dinanderies' ,  or  chased  copper 
and  brass  wares  of  Dinant  were  formerly  in  high  repute,  and  an 
attempt  has  recently  been  made  to  revive  the  industry.  The  Mu- 
seum (adm.  daily  9-5,  1  fr.)  contains  a  collection  of  these  wares. 
The  'couques  de  Dinant'  are  cakes  not  unlike  gingerbread. 

The  church  of  Notre  Dame,  a  handsome  edifice  of  the  13th  cent, 
in  the  Gothic  style,  but  with  a  few  remaining  traces  of  the  transition 
period,  has  been  recently  restored.  The  portals  are  worthy  of  notice. 
The  tower  is  upwards  of  200  ft.  in  height.  —  The  old  Hotel  de  Vilte, 
on  the  Meuse,  contains  some  paintings  by  Ant.  Jos.  Wiertz  (1806- 
65;  comp.  p.  112),  who  was  born  in  Dinant.  A  monument  is  to 
be  erected  to  him  on  the  hill  on  the  right  bank.  —  At  the  back  of 
the  church  are  steps  in  the  rock,  408  in  number,  leading  to  the  ci- 
tadel, which  was  sold  in  1879  for  7000  fr.  Fine,  but  limited  view 
from  the  top  (1  fr.). 

Better  views  of  the  town  and  river  are  commanded  from  the  gar- 
den of  the  Casino  (strangers  admitted).  Rue  Grande  27,  which  rises 
in  terraces,  and  from  the  Jar  din  de  Montfat  (adm.  I'/o  fr.),  in  the 
Kue  En-Rhee,  near  the  handsome  new  Renaissance  Palais  de  Justice. 
The  latter  garden  contains  a  cavern  called  the  Orotte  de  Montfat, 
from  which  steps  lead  up  a  narrow  shaft  to  the  highest  point  of  the 
garden.  — A  path  descends  behind  the  citadel  to  the Fonds de Le/fe, 
a  narrow  rocky  ravine  with  numerous  water-mills,  so  called  after 
Le/fe,  the  N.  suburb  of  Dinant. 

From  Dinant  to  Wanlin,  the  temporary  terminus  of  the  new  branch- 
railway  now  being  built  between  Jcmelle  and  Dinant  (p.  192),  about  I2V2  M.; 
carriage  in  2'/2  hrs.,  with  one  horse  12-15,  two  hurscs  18-20  fr.    The  road 


to  Givet.  DINANT.  27.  Route,    189 

leaves  the  valley  of  the  Meuse  at  Rivages  (see  below)  and  about  half-war 
passes  Celle,  with  an  old  Romanesque  church.  —  For  pedestrians  the  route 
up  the  valley  of  the  Lesse  via  Anseremme  (see  below)  is  far  preferable. 

Beyond  Dinant  the  railway  continues  to  follow  the  left  bank  of 
the  Meuse.  On  the  right  hank  appear  the  houses  and  villas  of  the 
suburb  of  Les  Rivages,  and  the  bold  and  isolated  pinnacle  of  rock 
on  the  right,  called  the  Roche  cl  Bayard  (the  name  of  the  horse  of 
the  'Quatre  Fils  d'Aymon'),  where  the  high-road  is  carried  through 
a  rocky  arch.    In  the  vicinity  are  quarries  of  black  marble.  Then  — 

A.nseTemme  [Hot.  Beausi jour ^  'pens.' 6-7 fr.;  Repos  des  Artistes, 
with  interesting  salle-a-manger ;  Beau-Rirage ;  Hot.  des  Etrangers), 
a  pretty  village  surmounted  by  overhanging  cliffs,  about  13  4  M. 
above  Dinant,  hear  the  mouth  of  the  Lesse. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  into  the  Vallet  of  the  Lesse,  the 
curious  cliff-tnrmations  of  which  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  trees 
and  pierced  with  numerous  caves  (e.g.  Trou  des  A'ut&nt,  Trou  du  Frontal, 
Trou  Rosette,  all  three  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Furfooz,  see  below),  which 
are  of  great  interest  to  geologists  and  anthropologists.  The  paths  are 
sometimes  fatiguing,  and  local  guides  are  useful.  The  road  quits  Anser- 
emme near  the  Hotel  Repos  des  Artistes  and  leads  over  the  hill  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Lesse.  "We  do  not  cross  the  bridge  to  the  old  farm  of 
Pont-a-Leste  but  follow  the  right  bank  to  the  modern  chateau  oi  Lesse  and 
to  a  (2^/2  M.)  mill,  whence  we  ferry  over  to  the  left  bank,  in  order  to 
obtain  a  view  of  the  castle  of  -Walzin  (13th  cent. ;  once  the  property  of 
the  De  la  Mark  family) ,  wliich  is  romantically  situated  on  a  steep, 
overhanging  cliff  on  the  right  bank.  A  rough  path  leads  hence  along  the 
left  bank  to  (3  M.)  CAd/eux  (primitive  inn  at  the  ferryman's,  Pas.^eur  d'Eau; 
return  hence  by  boat  if  desired).  The  curious  clifTs  on  the  right  bank, 
opposite  (ferry),  are  known  as  the  Chandelle  de  Chdleux.  A  steep  path 
ascends  to  the  high-lying  village  of  (1  hr.)  Furfooz;  tine  view  of  the  valley 
from  the  top  (caves,  see  above).  We  now  proceed  to  the  E.  to  the  ancient 
chateau  of  WH-e  or  Celle,  picturesquely  situated  in  a  lateral  valley;  farther 
up  is  the  modern  chateau  of  Miranda,  in  the  English  Gothic  style;  both 
belong  to  Count  Liedekercke-Beaufort.  A  wooded  ravine  to  the  left  of  the 
castle  leads  to  Celle  on  the  road  from  Dinant  to  Wanlin  (p.  188).  On  the 
left,  beyond  the  Ivoigne,  a  tributary  of  the  Lesse,  rise  the  towers  of  the 
royal  chateau  of  Ardenne.  The  road'  to  Houyet  (Hotel  de  la  Lesse)  descends 
through  wood  frvim  the  height  un  which  the  chateau  stands,  while  another 
proceeds  at  the  same  level  to  Wanlin  (p.  188). 

A  short  tunnel  carries  the  railway  through  the  cliffs  of  Moniat, 
beyond  which  we  pass  one  of  the  finest  points  in  the  valley  of  the 
Meuse.  Here  is  situated  the  Chateau  of  Freyr,  the  ancestral  seat 
of  the  Beaufort-Spontln  family,  with  well-kept  gardens,  situated 
at  the  foot  of  wooded  hills  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  Easily 
accessible  stalactite  cavern  in  the  vicinity.  Opposite,  precipitous 
rocks  of  grotesque  shapes  rise  immediately  from  the  river. 

"2272  ^1-  Waulsort  (Hotel-Pens.  Martinot),  with  a  chateau  and 
flue  garden.  Opposite  is  the  curious  Rocher  du  Chien  and  farther 
up  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  Chateau  Thierry.  —  26  M.  Hastitre 
(*H6tel  de  Bellevue,  plain;  Hot.  de  la  Meuse;  Hot.  Hastitre), 
junction  of  ,the  line  via  Agimont  and  Mariembourg  (p.  183)  to 
Chimay,  Anor,  Laon,  and  Paris.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Meuse 
is  the  abbey-church  of  Hastier  e ,  founded  in  the  7th  cent;  the 
present  building  is  a  basilica  of  1033,  with  a  choir  of  1260.  — 


190   Route  21.  SEDAN, 

28^2  M.  Heer-Agimont,  with  the  Belgian  custom-house,  and  near 
the  ruined  Chateau  Agimont.  On  the  right  bank  red  marble  is 
quarried.  —  We  then  cross  the  French  border. 

31  M.  Givet  (*Mont  d'Or,  R.  2 ,  D.  31/2  fr.-;  Ancre) ,  with 
7800  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  Meuse,  which  is  crossed 
by  a  bridge  here,  is  the  first  French  town  on  the  line  (French 
custom-house) ,  and  consists  of  Givet-St.  Hilaire  on  the  left  bank, 
at  the  base  of  the  steep  hill  on  which  the  fort  of  Charlemont  lies, 
and  Givet- Notre- Dame  on  the  right  bank.  Both  parts  of  the  town 
are  strongly  fortified,  each  forming  a  separate  fortress.  Givet- 
St.  Hilaire  contains  the  longest  barrack  in  France  (1100  yds.).  The 
composer  Mehul  (d.  1818)  was  born  here,  and  a  monument  has  been 
erected  to  his  memory.    The  chateau  of  Beauraing,  see  p.  193. 

Givet  is  connected  with  Charleroi  by  two  railways,  the  Vireux- 
Charleroi  (p.  183),  and  the  Doische  -  Chatelineau  line  (p.  184); 
by  the  former  the  journey  occupies  41/4,  by  the  latter  21/4  hrs. 

From  Givet  to  Sedan,  48  M.,  railway  in  21/2  lirs.,  via  Miziires-Charle- 
ville  (*H6tel  du  Xord,  at  the  station),  two  towns  adjoining  each  other,  with 
6600  and  16,900  inhab.  respectively. 

Sedan  (Hdtel  de  France;  de  V Europe;  Croix  d'Or),  a  prettily  situated 
town  with  19,000  inhab.,  formerly  fortified.  Here  a  memorable  battle  took 
place  between  the  Germans  and  French  on  1st  Sept.,  1870,  terminating  in 
the  total  defeat  of  the  latter  and  the  capture  of  the  emperor  and  83,000  men 
(including  1  marshal,  39  generals,  230  staff-officers,  and  3000  other  officers). 
The  French  army  numbered  124,000  men,  the  German  240,000,  but  part  of 
the  latter  only  was  actually  engaged.  Carriages  and  guides  to  the  battle- 
field may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels. 

Those  who  desire  only  a  rapid  visit  to  the  battlefield  before  return- 
ing via  Metz ,  should  alight  at  Donchery  ^  the  station  before  Sedan.  From 
the  station  we  proceed  straight  on  through  the  village,  cross  the  Meuse, 
and  follow  the  Sedan  road  on  the  left  bank. 

At  the  (IV4  M.)  cross-roads  (about  590  ft.  above  the  sea-level)  below 
Frdnois,  the  road  to  the  left  leads  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  chateau  of 
Bellevue,  where  on  the  morning  of  Sept.  2nd  the  capitulation  was  signed 
by  General  v.  Moltke  and  General  de  Wimpffen,  and  where  a  little  later 
the  meeting  between  King  William  of  Prussia  and  Napoleon  III.  took 
place.  The  road  to  the  right  leads  in  about  IV2M.  to  a  height  to  the 
S.W.  of  Frenois,  where  King  William  had  his  headquarters  during  the 
battle,  and  where  on  the  evening  of  Sept.  1st  he  received  Napoleon's 
letter.  As  we  continue  to  follow  the  road  to  Sedan  we  have  a  survey  of 
the  hilly  district  beyond  the  Meuse  to  the  N.E.,  which  was  the  scene  of 
operations  of  the  N.  wing  of  the  French  army,  and  of  the  desperate  char- 
ges of  the  French  cavalry  at  Floing.  All  the  N.  heights  were  occupied  by 
the  Prussians  on  the  evening  of  Sept.  1st,  while  the  Prussian  guards, 
forming  part  of  the  army  of  the  Meuse,  advanced  from  the  N.E. 

Sedan  lies  about  IV2  M.  from  the  cross-roads  near  Bellevue.  We  enter 
the  town  through  the  suburb  of  Torcy,  where  the  station  (now  removed 
farther  to  the  S.E.)  stood  before  1870,  cross  the  Meuse,  and  reach  the 
market-place,  in  which  stands  a  monument  to  Marshal  Turenne,  born  at 
Sedan  in  1611.  Thence  turning  to  the  right  (S.E.)  we  traverse  the  suburb 
of  Balan  to  (V4  hr.)  Bazeilles,  the  possesion  of  which  was  obstinately  con- 
tested for  seven  hours  on  the  day  of  the  battle.  At  the  N.  end  of  the 
village  is  the  small  tavern  'A  la  Derniere  Cartouche',  which  was  the  only 
house  in  the  village  that  escaped  the  flames,  and  now  contains  a  'Mosee' 
of  relics  connected  with  the  battle.  A  pyramid  in  the  adjoining  cemetery 
marks  the  common  grave  of  more  than  2000  French  and  Germans.  The  rail- 
way-station of  Bazeilles  is  at  the  S.  end  of  the  village,  V2  M.  farther  on. 


191 


22.  From  Brussels  to  Luxembourg  via  Namur. 
Rochefort.    Han-sur-Lesse. 


137  M.  Railway  in  61/2  hra.  (fares  22  fr.,  16  fr.  45,  8  fr.  70  c). 

The  trains  start  from  the  Station  du  Quartier  Leopold  (p.  72), 
and  some  of  them  also  from  the  Station  du  Nord.  1  M.  Etterbeek, 
a  suburb  of  Brussels,  whence  the  line  to  Tervuren  diverges.  The 
next  stations,  WatermaeL,  Boitsfort,  and  Groenendael,  with  their 
pleasant  woods  and  picturesque  villas,  are  favourite  resorts  of  the 
citizens  of  Brussels  for  picnics  and  excursions.  From  La  Hulpe,  a 
glimpse  is  obtained  to  the  right  of  the  Mound  of  the  Lion  (p.  126 j 
on  the  distant  field  of  Waterloo.  On  the  left,  near  Rixensart,  is  a 
chateau  of  Count  Merode. 

15  M.  Ottignies  is  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  Louvain- 
Charleroi  (R.  25)  and  Louvain  -  Manage  -  Mons  (p.  182)  lines.  — 
171/2^-  Mont  St.  Guibert,  vnth  pretty  environs.  On  the  right  is  the 
chateau  of  Birbaix,  with  fine  gardens.  At  Chastre  the  Province  of  Bra- 
bant is  quitted ,  and  that  of  Namur  entered.  —  24  M.  Gembloux, 
junction  for  the  lines  to  Fleurus  and  Ramillies-Landen  (p.  196) 
and  to  Jemeppe-sur-Sambre  (p.  184).  An  old  abbey  here  contains 
the  royal  agricultural  institution.  281/2  M.  St.  Denis-Bovesse;  31  M. 
Rhisne.  The  train  passes  through  several  cuttings  in  the  blue  lime- 
stone rocks,  and  affords  a  strikingly  picturesque  view  of  — 

35  M.  Namur  (see  p.  184).  The  line  now  intersects  the 
Forest  of  Ardennes^  a  wild,  mountainous  district,  affording  many 
picturesque  views.  Immediately  after  quitting  Namur  the  train 
crosses  the  Meuse  and  commands  another  remarkably  fine  panorama 
of  the  town  and  its  citadel.  40^2  ^-  Naninne;  45  M.  Courritre: 
46  M.  Assesse;  491/2  M.  Natoye.  The  line  runs  hence  to  the  next 
station  through  the  deep  valley  of  the  upper  Bocq,  in  which,  ^/i^. 
to  the  S.W.  of  Natoye,  is  the  chateau  of  Mouffrin  (16th  cent. ;  to 
Spontin,  see  p.  187).  —  53  M.  Ciney  (Grand  Hotel;  Bellevue;  Hot. 
du  Condroz),  the  capital  of  the  Condroz  (Condrusi  of  the  Romans),  as 
the  district  between  the  Meuse  and  Ourthe  was  once  called  (route 
to  Huy  and  Landen,  see  p.  223).  — 59  M.  Leignon;  591/2  Haversin, 
IV2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  which  is  the  finely  restored  chateau  of  Serain- 
champs ,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  the  De  la  Marks  ,  now  the 
property  of  the  Marquis  of  Senzeilles. 

From  (651/2  M.)  Aye  an  omnibus  runs  (in  1/2  hr.  ;  1/2  fr.)  to 
Marche  (p.  218).  —  661/2  M.  Marloie,  where  the  direct  line  to  Liege 
(Ligne  de  I' Ourthe)  diverges  (p.  218).  The  line  now  descends  con- 
siderably, and  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Wamme 
to  the  left.  —  701/2  M;.  Jemelle  (Hot.  de  la  Station  ;  Hot.  du  Luxem- 
bourg), with  numerous  marble  and  limestone  quarries  and  lime- 
kilns, lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Wamme  with  the  Lomme,  a  tri- 
butary of  the  Lesse.  —  Continuation  of  the  Railway,  see  p.  193. 


192   Route  22.  ROCHEFORT.  From  Brussels 

The  new  railway  from  Jemelle  through  the  valleys  of  the  Lomme 
and  the  Lesse  to  Dinant  is  now  open  to  (^10^/2  ^0  Wanlin  (i/o  hr. ; 
fares  1  fr.  30,  1  fr.,  65  c). 

21/2  M.  Rochefort  (*mtel  Biron,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  11 '3-2,  B.  3/^, 
dej.  2,  D.  21  2,  pens.  5-6  fr.  ;  *H6tel  de  VEtoile,  same  charges; 
Hotel  Rog later ;  Clef  d' Or,  unpretending;  all  frequently  crowded"), 
a  favourite  summer-resort,  with  2400  inhah.,  formerly  the  capital 
of  the  County  of  Ardennes,  occupies  an  elevated  site  on  the  Lomme, 
commanded  by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  (private  property,  no  ad- 
mission). The  new  Hotel  de  Ville  and  the  Romanesque  Church, 
erected  after  plans  by  Cluysenaer,  are  noteworthy.  Fine  view  from 
the  Loretto  Chapel.  The  environs  are  remarkable  for  a  number  of 
curious  caverns  in  the  limestone  rock ,  many  of  which  have  been 
made  accessible. 

The  entrance  to  the  ''Grotte  de  Rochefort,  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
easily  visited,  is  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town.  It  is  the  property  of  a 
M.  Collignon,  who  discovered  it,  and  who  keeps  the  paths  in  the  interior 
in  good  condition  (admission  5  fr.,  for  parties  of  20  or  upwards  21/2  fr. 
each).  A  rapid  visit  to  it  takes  1V4-2  hours.  The  stalactites  are  purer  and 
even  more  varied  than  those  in  the  grotto  of  Han,  though  the  latter  is  far 
more  imposing.  The  SSrt//e  dts  Merveilles\  '•  Salle  du  Sahbal\_  '■Vol  d'En/er', 
and  'Ze*  Arcades\  the  finest  points,  are  illuminated  with  magnesium 
light;  the  height  of  the  Salle  du  Sabbat  (said  to  be  300  ft.)  is  revealed  by 
means  of  a  lighted  balloon. 

In  summer  an  omnibus  plies  regularly  from  Rochefort  to  the 
Grotto  of  Han,  a  visit  to  which  should  on  no  account  be  omitted  (re- 
turn-fare 2fr.).  The  village  of  Han-sur-Lesse  (Hotel  de  BeUevue) 
lies  31/2  M.  from  Rochefort,  on  the  N.  side  of  a  range  of  hills, 
through  which  the  Lesse  forces  its  way  by  the  so-called  Trou  de 
Han  or  de  Belvaux.  The  road  to  Han  diverges,  at  the  Hotel  Bi- 
ron in  Rochefort,  to  the  right  from  the  high-road  (which  continues 
straight  on  to  St.  Hubert ;  p.  193),  and  cannot  be  mistaken.  [On 
this  side  of  the  5th  kilometre-stone  stands  a  finger-post  indicating 
the  road  to  Hamerenne  and  Rochefort,  which  pedestrians  may  take 
on  their  way  back.] 

The  entrance  to  the  *Trou  de  Han  lies  about  IV2  M.  from 
Han,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  above-mentioned  range  of  hills;  the 
omnibus  from  Rochefort  drives  direct  to  the  cavern  without  touch- 
ing at  Han.  The  pedestrian  should,  however,  secure  the  services 
of  a  guide  at  the  hotel  in  Han  (one  of  the  brothers  Lanoy). 

Admission  for  a  single  visitor  7  fr. ;  two  or  more,  5  fr.  each ;  2  fr.  more 
is  exacted  for  awakening  the  echoes  by  a  pistol-shot,  for  1-4  pers.,  and 
50  c.  for  each  additional  person;  fee  to  the  guide  extra.  The  Guide-Al- 
bum du  Voyageur  a  la  Grotte  de  Han  (2  fr.)  contains  a  good  plan  of  the 
entire  cavern. 

The  Trou  de  Han  is  nearly  1  M.  in  length  and  consists  of  a  series  of 
chambers,  opening  into  each  other,  and  varying  in  height.  The  nume- 
rous stalactite -formations  have  been  fancifully  named  in  accordance 
with  their  forms,  Trdne  de  Pluton,  Boudoir  de  Proserpine,  Galerie  de  la 
Grenouille,  etc.  The  most  imposing  chamber  is  the  "Salle  du  Ddme,  which 
is  500  ft.  long,  450  ft.  wide,  and  130  ft.  high;  and  the  Merveilleuses ^  four 
chambers  with  the  most  beautiful  stalactites ,  only  recently  made  acces- 
sible, are  also  very  fine.     A  visit  to  the  cavern  is  extremely  interesting, 


"      o.—     ,    y       y--ih"."-di'Fi'sleique 


^«-iiiq,nmepar  l:5;),K 


3  VagnprS-DebesJierpzig 


Kilometres. 


to  Luxembourg.  ST.   HUBERT.  '22.  Route.    193 

and  occupies  2-4  hrs.  Visitors  emerge  at  the  other  end  in  a  boat.  August, 
September ,  and  October  are  the  best  months  for  inspecting  the  cavern ; 
in  spring  the  swollen  state  of  the  river  often  renders  access  impossible. 
The  cave  has  been  visited  by  tourists  since  1814.  The  stalactites  have 
unfortunately  been  sadly  blackened  by  smoky  torches,  but  the  grotto  is 
now  lighted  with  naphtha  and  magnesium.  —  Scarcely  V2  M.  farther  on 
is  the  Perte  de  la  Lesse,  also  well  worth  a  visit,  where  the  river  dashes 
into  a  subterranean  abyss. 

The  next  station  of  the  "branch  railway  is  (5  'Sl.'jEprave  (Malarm- 
Jacques  ;  Marneflfe's  Inn,  where  information  as  to  the  grotto  maybe 
ohtained) ,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Lomme  and  the  Lesse ,  with 
another  grotto  (adm,  2  fr. ;  guide  V.  Guerit-Anclaux^.  In  the  *Rond 
Tienne,  below  the  latter,  the  branch  of  the  Lomme  which  disappears 
in  the  grotto  of  Rochefort  (p.  192),  21/2  M.  distant,  bursts  forth 
again  to  the  light  of  day.  In  the  vicinity  is  an  interesting  Roman 
camp,  where  numerous  coins  have  been  found;  also  Celtic  and 
Frankish  graves. 

The  next  stations  are  ViUers-sur-Lesse,  Vignee,  and  (10^2  M.) 
Wanlin.     To  Dinant,  see  p.  188. 

From  Wanlin  a  diligence  (1  fr.  10  c.)  plies  twice  daily  to  (6V2  M.) 
Be&UTa.ing  (Hotel  du  Centre;  dtt  Sttd;  de  VOuest;  du  Nord),  the  fine  castle 
of  which,  with  its  art-treasures,  was  burned  in  Dec.  1889.  A  diligence 
f  1  fr.)  runs  hence  three  times  a  day  in  summer  to  (6  M.  5  IV4  hr.)  Givet 
(p.  190).  

721/.2  >I.  Forrieres ;  76  M.  Grupont  (Hot.  Masset).  A  diligence 
(2fr.  60c.)  plies  hence  twice  a  day  to  (15^2  ^1-)  Beauraing  (see 
above),  via  Wellin  (Hot.  de  TUnivers),  at  the  junction  of  the  road 
to  Ilan-sur-Lesse  (p.  192),  and  Revogne,  with  a  stalactite  grotto. 
The  train  follows  the  sinuosities  of  the  Lomme.  To  the  left,  on  a 
rocky  buttress,  rises  the  strikingly  picturesque  Chateau  Mirwart, 
with  its  five  towers.  From  (82'A2  M.)  Poix  (Hot.  Guillaume)  a 
branch-railway  runs  in  25  min.  to  (41  o^l-)  St.  Hubert,  Flem.  Hui- 
brecht  (Hotel  du  Luxembourg ;  Hotel  du  Chcmin  de  Fer),  a  town 
with  2500  inhab. ,  celebrated  for  the  chapel  containing  the  relics 
of  the  saint  who  has  given  his  name  to  the  place.  The  abbey  has 
been  converted  into  a  Reformatory  for  young  criminals.  The  Church, 
in  the  Flamboyant  style,  with  double  aisles  and  interesting  crypt, 
dates  from  the  16th  cent,  (facade  and  towers  erected  in  1700).  A 
chapel  on  the  left  near  the  choir  contains  a  *Sarcophagus  adorned 
with  basreliefs  by  W.  Geefs,  and  the  choir  itself  has  some  fine 
wood-carving.  The  extensive  forest  of  St.  Hubert  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Belgium. 

St.  Hubert,  the  tutelary  saint  of  sportsmen,  was  once  a  profligate  and 
impious  prince  ,  who  did  not  scruple  to  indulge  in  the  pleasures  of  the 
chase  even  on  the  solemn  fast -days  appointed  by  the  Church.  While 
thus  irreverently  engaged  on  the  holy  fast  of  Good  Friday ,  he  suddenly 
beheld  the  miraculous  apparition  of  a  stag  with  a  cross  growing  out  of 
its  forehead  between  its  antlers.  Thus  warned  by  Heaven  of  the  danger 
of  adhering  to  his  sinful  courses,  he  at  once  desisted  from  the  hunt,  vol- 
untarily relinquished  all  the  honours  and  a,dvantages  of  his  noble  rank, 
and  determined  thenceforth  to  devote  himself  to  a  life  of  piety   and  self- 

Baedekek's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  13 


194      Route  22.  ARLON. 

abnegation.  He  accordingly  presented  the  whole  of  bis  fortune  to  the 
Church,  became  a  monk,  and  founded  the  abbey  and  church  which  are 
still  called  by  his  name.  The  holy  man  is  said  to  have  enjoyed  miracu- 
lous powers  during  his  life-time,  and  long  after  his  death  numerous  mir- 
acles were  wrought  by  means  of  his  relics. 

85  M.  Hairival.  —  91  M.  Libramont  (Hotel  Bellevue,  plain), 
on  the  watershed  between  the  Lesse  and  the  Semois,  is  the  station 
for  Recogne,  a  village  to  the  right,  on  the  road  to  Bouillon  (see 
below)  and  Sedan,  the  route  by  which  Napoleon  III.,  accompanied 
by  French  and  Prussian  officers  and  a  Belgian  escort,  proceeded  to 
Libramont  on  4th  Sept.,  1870,  to  take  the  train  for  Germany. 

From  Libramont  to  Gouvt.  'dQ^/z  M.,  branch-railway  in  IV2-274  hrs. 
(fares  5  fr.  60,  4  fr.  20,  2  fr.  80  c).  Stations:  Bernimont ,  Wideumont- 
JSercheux,  Mor/iet,  Sibret.  —  18  M.  Bastogne  (Le  Brun;  Collin)^  an  old  town 
of  2000  inhab.,  surnamed  Paris-en-Ardenne ;  the  church,  dating  from  the 
15th  cent.,  contains  some  curious  vaulting,  ancient  mural  paintings,  and 
a  figure  of  St.  Christopher  executed  in  1520.  A  branch-railway  runs  from 
Bastogne,  via  (5  M.)  Ben  on  champs.,  Schimpach.,  and  Schleif  to  Willz  (p.  234), 
and  through  the  idyllic  valley  of  the  Wilz  via  Merckliolz  (p.  234)  to  Kauten' 
bach  (p.  234)  in  the  grand-duchy  of  L\ixembourg.  —  From  (2i  M.)  Bowcy  a 
steam-tramway  plies  to  (7V2  M.)  Houffalize  (IlCt.  des  Ardennes,  pens.  5  fr. ; 
JJol.  des2Postes;  H6t.  de  Luxembourg),  a  picturesquely  situated  town  with 
1300  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  upper  vallev  of  the  Ourthe,  with  a  ruined 
castle.  —  28  M.  Tavigny.  —  36V2  M.  Gouvy\  see  p.  216. 

Another  branch-line  runs  from  Libramont  to  (71/2  M.)  Bertrix  (p.  195). 

96^2  M-  Longlier^  the  station  for  Neufchdteau  (Hotel  des  Postes; 
des  Etrangers),  a  small  town  of  2000  inhab.,  once  fortified,  which 
lies  3/4  M.  to  the  right  (tunnel  beneath  the  castle-hill),  —  101  M. 
Lavaux;  103  M.  Mellier.  —  106  M.  Marbehan  {^Comet's  Inn;  Gil- 
let-Kogier),  with  a  new  church.  A  branch-line  diverges  here  to 
Ste.  Marie,  Croix-Rouye,  Ethe,  and  (16  M.)  Virton[see  below). 

IIOV2  M.  Habay-la-Neuve ;  1131/2  M.  Pouches. 

1191/2  M.  Arlon,  Flem.  Aarlen  (*H6tel  du  Nord,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3, 
B.  1,  D.  21/2,  S.  2,  omn.  1/2  fr. ;  Maison  Rouge;  Hotel  Central,  in 
the  market-place ;  Cafe  de  la  Bourse),  a  prosperous  little  town  with 
7200  inhab.,  situated  in  a  well-cultivated  plain,  1330  ft.  above  the 
sea-level,  is  the  capital  of  the  Belgian  province  of  Luxembourg.  It 
was  the  Orolaunum  Vicus  of  the  Antoninian  itinerary,  and  was  once 
fortified.  Fine  view  from  the  church.  The  Hotel  du  Gouvernement 
Provincial  contains  an  unarranged  collection  of  Roman  antiquities 
found  in  the  neighbourhood,  including  some  interesting  stone- 
carvings.  —  About  3  M.  to  the  E.,  on  the  Luxembourg  frontier, 
lies  the  ruined  Cistercian  abbey  of  Clair fontainc. 

From  Arlon  to  Longwy  (for  Longuyon  and  If^ancy),  14  M.,  railway 
in  3/4  hr.  (fares  1  fr.  75,  1  fr.  35,  90  c).  Intermediate  stations:  Aulel- 
Bas,  Messancy,  Alhus  (see  below),  and  Mont  St.  Martin.  (At  Autel-IIaut 
are  an  interesting  old  church  partly  of  the  10th  cent.,  and  a  chateau  of 
the  13th  cent.)  —Longwy  (Hotel  de  TEurope)  is  the  French  frontier-station 
and  seat  of  the  custom-house. 

From  Arlon  to  Gedinne,  70  M.,  railway  in  33/4  hrs.  (fares  8  fr.  60, 
6  fr.  45,  4  fr.  30  c).  —  As  far  as  (10  M.)  Athus  (branch  to  Petange,  p.  195) 
the  line  is  the  same  as  that  to  Lonjiwy.  It  then  turns  to  the  W.  15  BI. 
Uulancy;  19  M.  Signeitlx;  2IV2  M.  Ruetle. 

2b^/-2  M.  Virion  (Croix  d'Or;  Cheval  Blanc),  the  junction  of  a  line  to 
Marbehan  (see  above),   is  a  prettily-situated   little  town  with  2500  inhab., 


TIRLEMONT.  23.  Route.    195 

whose  chief  occupation  is  farming  and  cattle-breeding.  Various  Roman 
cuins  and  antiquities  have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 

29 M.  Meix-devant-Virton ;  33V2M.  Belle-Fontaine-lez-Etalle ;  ST'^M.  Izel. 

401/2  M.  Florenville  ("Hdtel  du  Commerce;  Poste),  a  small  town  near  the 
French  frontier,  from  which  many  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  into 
the  forest  of  Ardennes.  [The  winding  valley  of  the  Semois,  from  Izel 
(see  above)  to  its  junction  with  the  Meuse  at  3Jontherm4  (see  Baedeker's 
Northern  France).,  is  very  picturesque.  Good  quarters  may  be  found  at 
Florenville  and  Bouillon  (see  below)  and  also  at  Herheumont  (Hot.  Vasseur), 
up-stream,  and  ai  Alle  (*H6t.  Hoffmann;  du  Commerce),  down-stream.]  — 
About  7V2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Florenville  lie  the  ruins  of  the  abbey  of  Or- 
»aZ,  founded  in  1124.  The  church  was  rebuilt  in  the  16-17th  centuries. 
Adjacent  is  a  tolerable  inn. 

471/2  M.  Straimont;  491/2  M.  St.  Midard;  b^^j-i  M.  Bertrix  (Hot.  Manjean; 
branch  to  Libramont,  see  p.  194).  —  From  (61  M  )  Paliseul  (Hotel  des  Ar- 
dennes) a  steam-tramway  (fares  1  fr.  15,  80  c.)  plies  to  (10  M. ;  3/^  hr.) 
Bouillon.,  a  little  town  dominated  by  the  stately  ancestral  castle  of  Godfrey 
of  Bouillon.  Here  iS'^apoleon  III.  spent  the  night  of  3rd-4th  Sept.  1870  in 
the  Hotel  de  la  Poste.  To  the  S.  of  Bouillon  lie  Les  Amerois,  a  chateau 
and  park  of  the  Count  of  Flanders.  From  Bouillon  to  Sedan  (p.  190), 
about  91/2  M.  by  road.  —  65  M.   Graide;  66V2  M.  Bicvre ;  70  M.  Gedinne. 

123 M.  Autel;  125 V2  M.  St€rpenich.  —  i2QM.  Bc«mgren  (Luxem- 
bourg custom-honse ;  luggage  examined),  the  junction  for  branch- 
lines  to  Steinfort  and  Ettelbriick  (to  the  N.)  and  to  Clemency,  Po- 
tage,  and  Esch  sur  I'Alzette  (to  the  S.}.  128  M.  Cappellen  ;  130  M. 
Mamer ;  132^/2^.  Bertring en. 

136  M.  Luxembourg,  see  p.  237. 

23.  From  Brussels  to  Lifege  via  Louvain. 

62  M.  Railway  in  2-3V4  hrs.  (fares  7  fr.  50,  5  fr.  65,  3  fr.  75  c.i 
e.vpress  9  fr.  40,  7  fr.  5,  4  fr.  70  c). 

The  train  starts  from  the  Station  du  Nord,  and  traverses  an 
agricultural  and  partly-wooded  district.  At  (2  M.)  Schaerbeek  the 
Malines  line  diverges  (p.  131);  5  M.  Dieghem,  noted  as  a  pilgrim- 
age-resort and  for  its  fair;  6  M.  Saventhem,  the  parish-church  of 
which  contains  a  good  picture  by  Van  Dyck,  representing  St.  Martin 
dividing  his  cloak,  a  gift  of  the  master  himself;  972^1.  Cortenberg ; 
13  M.  Velthem;  15  M.  Herent. 

18  M.    Louvain,  see  R.  24. 

Bkanch-line  hence  to  the  N.  to  Rotselaar  (with  the  old  tower  of  Ter- 
heiden  rising  from  a  pond  in  the  neighbourhood)  and  (10  M.)  Aarschot,  a 
station  on  the  Antwerp  and  Hasselt  line  (p.  176),  and  thence  to  Uerenthals 
on  the  Turnhout  and  Tilburg  line  (p.  135). 

From  Louvain  to  Charleroi,  see  R.  25. 

From  Louvain  to  Malines,  see  p.  135. 

Beyond  Louvain  the  Norbertinian  abbey  of  Pare  (p.  202),  is 
seen  on  the  right.    25  M.  Vertryck. 

2972  M.  Tirlemont,  Flem.  Thienen  (Hotel  Ponsaerts ;  Nouveau 
Monde,  near  the  station;  Hotel  de  Flandre,  in  the  market-place),  a 
clean  and  well-built,  but  dull  town  with  13, 700  inhab.,  was  once  like 
Louvain  occupied  by  a  much  larger  and  wealthier  population.  The 
walls,  which  are  nearly  6  M.  in  circumference,  now  enclose  a  large 
extent  of  arable  land.     In  the  spacious  market-place  is  situated  the 

13* 


196     Route  23.  LANDEN. 

church  of  Notre  Dame  du  Lac,  founded  in  1298,  enlarged  in  the 
loth  cent.,  hut  left  unfinished.  The  Church  of'St.  Germain,  situated 
on  an  eminence,  probably  dates  from  the  12th  cent.  ;  high-altar- 
piece  a  Pietk,  by  Wappers.  The  celebrated  Jesuit  BoUandus  (d. 
1655)  was  probably  a  native  of  Tirlemont.  He  was  the  first  com- 
piler of  the  Acta  Sanctorum,  and  his  successors  who  continued  the 
work  styled  themselves  Bollandists. 

Fkom  Tirlemont  to  Diest  (p.  176),  lOV-'M.,  branch-railway  in  50  min. 
(fares  2  fr.  35,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  20  c),  via  Neer-Linter,  Geet-Betz,  and  Ilalen. 

Feom  Tirlemont  to  St.  Trond  and  Tongres,  27V2  M.,  railway  in 
13/4  hr.  (fares  3  fr.  35,  2  f r.  50,  1  fr.  70  c.).  —  G'/- 31.  Neer-Linter  (sec 
above).  —  9V2  M.  Leau,  Flem.  Zout-Leeuw  (Cafe -Restaurant  of  /.  Vos), 
formerly  a  fortress,  with  a  handsome  late-Gothic  Town  Sail  (16th  cent.) 
and  the  Gothic  church  of  ~St.  Leonhard  (13th  and  I4th  cent.).  The  latter 
contains  Gothic  carved  altars  with  early-Flemish  and  Renaissance  paint- 
ings (t)eginning  of  16th  cent. ;  in  the  right  aisle),  a  collection  of  admirable 
Gothic  bronze  works  of  the  15th  cent.,  unequalled  in  any  other  church  in 
the  Netherlands  (censers ,  fonts ,  lectern  in  the  form  of  a  eagle,  six-light 
candelabrum,  28  ft.  in  height,  tabernacle-railing),  and  a  magnificent  ♦Taber- 
nacle sculptured  in  stone,  52  ft.  high,  one  of  the  finest  works  of  the  Belgian 
Renaissance,  executed  in  1554  by  Cornelis  de  Vriendt,  architect  of  the  Ant- 
werp Hotel  de  Ville,  by  order  of  Martin  de  Wilre ,  Seigneur  of  Oplinter, 
who  is  buried  beside  it.  —  12V2  M.  St.  Trond  (see  below),  the  junction 
for  the  Landen-Hasselt  line.  —  16  M.  Ordange ;  20'/2  M.  Looz;  24  M,  Firange. 

—  27  M.  Tongres,  see  p.  360. 

From  Tirlemont  to  Namur,  27V2  M.,  railway  in  I1/3  hr.  (fares  3  fr.  35, 
2  fr.  50,  1  fr.  70  c).  Stations  unimportant.  From  Jodoigne  a  tramway  runs 
to  Wavrc  (p.  202).  —  13  M.  Ramillies  is  the  junction  of  the  Landen  and 
Gembloux  line  (see  p.  197).  About  2V2  M.  to  the  N.  is  Folx-les-Caves, 
with  curious  subterranean  quarries,  worked  even  in  Roman  times  (guide 
in  the  adjacent  cafe').  —  From  (16  M.)  Noville-Taviers  a  branch-line  runs 
to  Enibresin;  and  from  Eghezie  a  steam-tramway  plies  to  Andenne  (p.  223). 

—  Namur,  see  p.  184. 

Beyond  (33  M.)  Esemael  the  line  intersects  the  plain  of  Neer- 
winden  (the  village  lies  to  the  left),  the  scene  of  two  great  battles. 
In  the  first  of  these,  on  29th  July,  1693,  the  French  under  Marshal 
Luxembourg  defeated  the  Allies  under  William  III.  of  England. 
In  the  second  the  French  under  Dumouriez  and  Louis  Philippe 
(then  'General  Eg alite',  afterwards  king  of  France)  were  defeated 
by  the  Austrians  under  the  Prince  of  Cobourg  (great -uncle  of  the 
late  king  Leopold),  and  driven  out  of  Belgium  (18th  Mar.,  1793). 

38  M.  Landen ,  the  junction  of  several  lines ,  is  historically 
interesting  as  the  birth-place  of  Pepin,  the  majordomo  of  the  royal 
domains  of  the  Anstrasian  monarch  Dagobert  I.  (628-38).  He  died 
here  about  the  year  640,  and  was  buried  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  which 
still  bears  his  name.  His  remains  were  afterwards  removed  to  Ni- 
velles  (p.  130),  where  his  daughter  Gertrude  (d.  659)  founded  a 
convent.  His  fifth  lineal  descendant  was  Charlemagne,  who  ascended 
the  throne  of  the  vast  Franconian  empire  128  years  later. 

From  Landen  to  Hasselt,  branch-line  in  ^/i-V/t  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  20, 
1  fr.  70,  1  fr.  10  c).  This  route  presents  few  attractions.  6V2  M.  St.  Trond, 
Flem.  St.  Truiden  (Hdtel  du  Commerce),  the  most  important  station,  with 
11,500  inhab.,  possesses  several  old  churches  (Notre  Dame,  Gothic,  restored^ 
St.  Martin,  Romanesque);  it  is  the  junction  for  the  Tirlemont  -  Tongres 
line  (see  above).    17»^  M.  Hasselt,  see  p.  176. 


LOUVAIN.  24.  Route.    197 

Fkom  Landen  to  Gembloux  (Fleurus  and  Charleroi).,  23  M.,  railway  in 
1  hr.  (fares  2  fr.  80,  2  fr.  10,  Ifr.  40  c.).  Stations  (12  M.)  Ramillies  (p.  19G), 
Gembloux  (p.  191),  Fleurus,  and  Charleroi  (see  p.  183). 

Landen  is  also  the  junction  for  a  line  coming  from  Cinet,  which 
intersects  the  Namur-Liege  line  at  Hui/  (see  p.  223). 

Next  stations  Gingelom,  Rosoux-Goyer,  and  [47  M.)  Waremme, 
beyond  which  the  line  crosses  ancient  and  well-preserved  Roman 
road,  called  by  the  country-people  Route  de  Brunhilde,  which  ex- 
tended from  Bavay  (Bavacum  NerviorumJ,  near  Mons,  to  Tongres. 
The  latter  was  the  capital  of  the  ancient  province  of  Hesbaye,  the 
natives  of  which  were  once  famed  for  their  strength  and  bravery, 
as  the  old  proverb ,  'Qui  passe  dans  le  Heshain  est  combattu  Vende- 
mam\  suggests.  —  Steam-tramway  to  Huy.,  see  p.  222. 

Beyond  (53  M.)  Fexhe  the  land  of  the  Brabanters,  a  somewhat 
phlegmatic  race  of  Germanic  origin,  is  quitted,  and  that  of  the  ac- 
tive and  enterprising  Celtic  Walloons  entered.  A  smiling  and  highly- 
cultivated  district  is  exchanged  for  a  scene  of  industrial  enterprise. 
Numerous  coal-mines,  foundries,  and  manufactories  are  passed  in 
the  vicinity  of  (58  M.)  Ans,  which  lies  490  ft.  higher  than  Liege, 
(Branch-line  to  Liers,  p.  3G0.)  —  6OV2  M.  Haut-Fre. 

The  line  now  descends  rapidly  (i  :  30) ,  affording  a  fine  view  of 
the  populous  city  of  Liege  and  the  beautiful  and  populous  valley 
of  the  Meuse.  A  large  brick  building  on  the  hill  to  the  left  is  a 
military  hospital. 

62  M.    Liege,  see  p.  203. 

24.    Louvain. 

Hotels.  In  the  town:  Hotel  de  SufiDE  (PI.  a),  Place  du  Peuple,  with 
restaurant,  E.  3-5,  L.  1/2,  A.  3/4,  B.  I1/2,  dej.  2V2,  U.  4  fr.  —  Hotel  de  la 
CoUK  DE  Mons,  Rue  de  Savoie  7,  with  a  popular  table-d'hote,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  from  2  fr.,  B.  '/j,  D.  2,  S.  I'/i  fr.  —  At  the  station :  Hotel  du  Nord,  R. 
&  A.  3,  B.  1  fr.;  Hotel  du  Nouveah-Monde,  Hotel  de  l'Industkie,  both 
unpretending. 

Restaurants.  Sociiti  Roy  ale  (de  la  Table  Ronde),  Grand' Place;  Taverne 
Mathieii,  Taverne  Allemande,  Restaurant  Lorrain,  all  in  the  Rue  de  la 
Station.  —  Cafes.  Caf^  Rubens,  opposite  the  church  of  St.  Pierre;  Cafe 
Lyrique,  Grand' Place  22;  Cafe  de  la  Renaissance,  at  the  station.  The  beer 
of  Louvain  is  a  sickly  beverage,  but  Bavarian  beer  may  also  generally  be 
obtained. 

Cabs,  or  Vigilantes,  i  fr.  per  drive.  —  Tramway  from  the  station  to 
the  Grande  Place. 

Chief  Attractions  (B-S'/a  hrs.  suffice).  Hotel  de  Ville,  exterior  (p.  193) ; 
St.  Pierre,  under  the  guidance  of  the  sacristan  (p.  199);  Halles,  exterior 
(p.  200);  choir-stalls  at  St.  Gertrude's  (p.  201),  St.  Joseph's  (p.  201). 

Louvain,  Flem,  Leuven  or  Loven,  on  the  Dyle,  which  flows 
through  part  of  the  town  and  is  connected  by  a  canal  with  the  Rupel 
(p.  135),  is  a  dull  place  with  38,700  inhabitants.  The  greater  part 
of  the  space  enclosed  by  the  walls  built  in  the  14th  cent,  is  now 
used  as  arable  land.  The  ramparts  surrounding  the  walls  have  been 
converted  into  promenades. 

The  name  of  the  town  is  derived  from  Loo,  signifying  a  wooded 
height,    and  Veen,    a  marsh,   w^ords  which  are  also   combined  in 


198     Route  24.  LOUVATN.  Hotel  de  Ville. 

Venlo.  In  the  lAih  cent.,  when  Louvain  was  the  capital  of  the 
Duchy  of  Brabant,  and  residence  of  the  princes,  it  numbered 
44,000  inhab.,  most  of  whom  were  engaged  in  the  cloth-trade,  and 
the  town  contained  no  fewer  than  2000  manufactories.  Here,  as 
in  other  Flemish  towns,  the  weavers  were  a  very  turbulent  class, 
and  always  manifested  great  jealousy  of  the  influence  of  the  nobles 
in  their  civic  administration.  During  an  insurrection  in  1378, 
thirteen  magistrates  of  noble  family  were  thrown  from  the  window 
of  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  and  received  by  the  populace  below  on  the 
points  of  their  spears;  but  Duke  Wenceslaus  besieged  and  took 
the  city,  and  compelled  the  citizens  to  crave  his  pardon  with  every 
token  of  abject  humiliation.  The  power  of  the  nobles  soon  regained 
its  ascendancy,  and  their  tyrannical  sway  caused  thousands  of  the 
industrious  citizens  to  (migrate  to  Holland  and  England,  whither 
they  transplanted  their  handicraft.  From  that  period  may  be  dated 
the  decay  of  Louvain. 

In  front  of  .'the  railway-station  (PL  F,  2)  is  a  statue  of  Sylvaan 
van  de  Weyer  (d.  1874),  a  native  of  Louvain,  who  was  one  of  the 
most  ardent  promoters  of  the  revolution  of  1830,  and  became  the 
ambassador  of  the  provisional  government  at  the  London  Conference. 
The  statue  is  by  G.  Geefs. 

The  Rue  de  la  Station ,  on  the  right  side  of  which  is  the 
Theatre,  built  by  Lavergne  in  1864-67,  leads  straight  to  the  Place 
de  I'Hotel  de  Ville  [Grand'  Place;  PL  D,  E,  3). 

The  **H6teI  de  Ville  (PL  20),  a  very  rich  and  beautiful  example 
of  late-Gothic  architecture,  resembling  the  town-halls  of  Bruges, 
Brussels,  Ghent  (in  the  older  part),  and  Oudenaarde,  but  surpassing 
them  in  elegance  and  harmony  of  design,  was  erected  in  1447-63 
by  Matthew  de  Layens.  The  building  consists  of  three  stories, 
each  of  which  has  ten  pointed  windows  in  the  principal  facade,  and 
is  covered  with  a  lofty  roof  surrounded  with  an  open  balustrade. 
At  the  four  corners  and  from  the  centre  of  the  gables  spring  six 
slender  octagonal  turrets ,  terminating  in  open  spires.  The  three 
different  facades  are  lavishly  enriched  with  sculptures.  The  statues 
on  the  lowest  story  represent  celebrated  citizens  of  Louvain,  those 
on  the  second  story  the  various  grades  of  the  mediaeval  burghers, 
and  those  on  the  uppermost  the  sovereigns  of  the  land.  The  corbels 
which  support  the  statues  are  embellished  with  almost  detached 
reliefs,  representing  scenes  from  Old  and  New  Testament  history, 
in  some  cases  with  mediaeval  coarseness.  The  facade  was  restored 
in  1829-42,  but  seems  already  in  need  of  another  renovation.  The 
building  was  seriously  damaged  by  lightning  in  1890. 

The  Interior  is  uninteresting.  Most  of  the  apartments  are  fitted  up 
in  a  modern  style,  and  adorned  with  pictures  by  Vaenius ,  De  Crape?', 
Miereveie,  etc.  The  Salle  Gothique  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Hennehicq, 
consisting  of  scenes  from  the  history  of  Louvain  and  portraits  of  eminent 
citizens.  —  On  the  second  floor  is  a  small  museum  containing  an  Ascen- 
sion by  Mich.  Coxie,  specimens  of  De  Cvayer  and  Mierevelt,  and  a  number 
of  other  ancient  and  modern  pictures,  including  several  copies.     Here  also 


St.  Pierre.  LOUVAIN.  "^i.  Route.     199 

are  preserved  those  parts  of  the  original  sculptures  of  the  facade  which 
could  not  be  made  use  of  in  the  restoration ;  a  stone  model  by  Josse  Met- 
sy$  of  the  projected  towers  of  St.  Pierre  (1525);  some  local  antiquities,  etc. 
Catalogue  25  c. 

The  Gothic  *Church  of  St.  Pierre  (PL  16  ;  E,  2,  3),  opposite  the 
Hotel  de  Ville,  a  noble  oruoiform  structure  flaukecl  with  chapels, 
was  erected  in  1425-97  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  huilding.  The 
unfinished  W.  tower  does  not  rise  beyond  the  height  of  the  roof. 

The  Interior  (sacristan,  Place  Marguerite  11 ;  Ifr.,  more  for  a 
party)  is  101  yds.  long  and  2972  ycls.  hroad.  A  relief  to  the  right  of 
the  entrance  from  the  Place  de  I'Hotel  de  Yille  commemorates  the 
second  founding  of  the  university  in  1834  (p.  200).  The  choir  is 
separated  from  the  nave  by  an  elaborate  Juhe.  or  Rood  Loft,  in 
the  Flamlioyant  style,  executed  in  1490.  consisting  of  three  arches 
adorned  with  statuettes,  and  surmounted  by  a  lofty  cross.  The 
twelve-branched  Candelabrum  was  executed  by  John  Massys. 

N-WB.  The  swinging  doors  inside  the  principal  portal  are 
finely  carved  in  wood  in  the  somewhat  exaggerated  style  of  the 
late  Renaissance  (1556). 

1st  Chapel  on  the  N.  side :  late-Gothic  font  in  copper,  formerly 
furnished  with  a  lofty  and  heavy  cover,  which  was  removable  hy 
the  still-preserved  cast-iron  handle,  by  J.  Massys.  —  The  following 
chapels  on  the  same  side  have  marble  parapets  in  the  baroque  style. 
The  1st  Chapel  on  the  S.  side  contains  an  altarpiece  copied 
from  the  original  of  De  Crayer,  which  was  carried  off  by  the  French, 
and  is  now  at  Nancy,  representing  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  administering 
the  Sacrament  to  persons  sick  of  the  plague;  an  old  winged  picture 
by  Van  der  Baeren  (1594),  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Dorothea;  and  a 
statue  of  St.  Charles,  by  Ch.  Oeerts  (1855). 

The  2nd  Chapel  (that  of  the  Armourers)  contains  a  curious, 
blackened  image  of  Christ,  highly  venerated  in  consequence  of  the 
legend  that  it  once  caught  a  thief  who  had  sacrilegiously  entered 
the  church.    The  railing  is  adorned  with  armour  and  cannon. 

The  Pulpit,  carved  in  1742  by  Jos.  Berge,  a  work  of  very  ques- 
tionable taste,  represents  Peter's  Denial  on  one  side,  and  the  Con- 
version of  St.  Paul  on  the  other.  The  lifesize  wooden  figures  are 
overshadowed  by  lofty  palm-trees ,  also  carved  in  wood,  and  the 
whole  is  coated  with  brown  varnish. 

The  5th  Chapel  contains  a  picture  otMemling's  school,  represent- 
ing the  consecration  of  a  cook  as  bishop,  under  Gregory  V. 

Ambulatory.  2nd  Chapel :  *Dierick  Bouts,  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Erasmus,  a  painful  subject;  in  the  background  the  Emperor,  richly 
attired ,  with  three  attendants ;  the  scene  is  represented  in  a  care- 
fully-executed landscape  with  blue  mountains  in  the  distance  ;  on 
the  wings,  St.  Jerome  on  the  left  and  St.  Anthony  on  the  right. 
The  inscription  'Opus  Joh.  Memling'  is  a  forgery.  The  same  chapel 
contains  the  handsome  Renaissance  tombstone  of  Ad.  van  Baussede 
(d.  1559).    —   3rd  Chapel:    De    Crayer,   Holy  Trinity.     Wierick 


200     Route  24.  LOUVAIN.  University. 

Bouts,  Last  Supper,  painted  in  1467,  also  furnished  with  a  forged 
signature  of  Memling.  This  is  the  central  picture  of  an  extensive 
altarpiece,  the  wings  of  which  are  in  the  museum  at  Berlin  (Feast 
of  the  Passover  and  Elijah  in  the  wilderness),  and  in  the  Pina- 
kothek  at  Munich  (Abraham  and  Melchisedech,  and  the  Gathering  of 
manna).  The  symbolical  character  of  the  composition  is  of  course  not 
traceable  in  the  central  piece  alone.  One  characteristic  of  Dierick's 
style  is  his  attempt  at  individualisation  by  making  the  complexions 
strikingly  dissimilar.  Fine  monument  of  Prof.  Boyarts  (d.  1520). 

The  4th  Chapel  formerly  contained  a  celebrated  'Holy  Family' 
by  Quinten  Massys,  which  was  sold  to  the  Brussels  Museum  in  1879 
for  200,000  fr.  (see  p.  100). 

In  the  5th  Chapel  are  four  paintings  by  P.  J.  Verhayhen,  depict- 
ing the  life  and  death  of  St.  Margaret  of  Louvain,  who  is  here  held 
in  great  veneration  as  the  patron-saint  of  domestic  servants. 

6th  Chapel,  with  a  handsome  cast  iron  screen  of  1878:  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  by  *Roger  van  der  Weyden  (V),  a  winged  picture 
on  a  golden  ground,  with  the  donors  at  the  sides,  bearing  the  doubt- 
ful date  1443,  but  probably  a  late  and  reduced  repetition  of  a 
picture  in  the  Escurial.  The  same  chapel  contains  the  tombstone 
of  Henry  I.,  Duke  of  Brabant  (d.  1235),  the  founder  of  the  church 
(the  pedestal  is  modern). 

7th  Chapel :  Handsome  marble  balustrade  hy  Papenhoven  of  Ant- 
werp (1709),  representing  Children  playing.  Confession,  Baptism, 
and  Communion.  —  Adjacent  is  an  imposing  Renaissance  monu- 
ment to  the  memory  of  Ant.  Bertyns  (d.  1563)  and  his  wife. 

In  the  choir,  opposite,  rises  a  beautiful  Gothic  Tabernacle 
(50  ft.  in  height),  by  Layens  (p.  198),  executed  in  1450.  —  The 
N.  transept  contains  a  richly  carved  organ  of  1556,  a  good  copy  of 
Van  Dyck's  Raising  of  the  Cross,  and  a  painted  wooden  statue  of  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  of  1442. 

The  Halles  (PI.  25  ;  D,  E,  3),  66  yds.  long  and  151/0  yds.  wide, 
were  erected  as  a  warehouse  for  the  Clothmakers'  Guild  in  1317,  and 
made  over  to  the  University  in  1679.  The  upper  story  was  added 
in  1680.  The  interior  is  disfigured  by  alterations  and  additions, 
but  the  arches  and  pillars  of  the  hall  on  the  ground  -  floor  still 
bear  testimony  to  the  the  wealth  and  taste  of  the  founders.  The 
Library,  one  of  the  most  valuable  in  Belgium  (70,000  vols., 
400  MSS.),  is  adorned  with  a  sculptured  group  representing  a  scene 
from  the  Flood,  executed  by  Geerts  in  1839.  The  entrance-hall 
contains  portraits  of  former  professors,  and  a  large  picture  by  Van 
Brie,  Christ  healing  the  blind,  painted  in  1824. 

The  University,  founded  in  1426,  was  regarded  as  the  most  famous 
in  Europe  in  the  iGth  cent.,  and  the  theological  faculty  in  particular  was 
remarkable  for  its  inflexible  adherence  to  the  orthodox  dogmas  of  the 
Church.  The  number  of  students  is  said  to  have  exceeded  6U00  at  the 
period  when  the  celebrated  Justus  Lipsius  (d.  1G06)  taught  here.  Under 
Joseph  II.  its  reputation  somewhat  declined,  but  it  continued  to  exist 
until  the  close  of  last  century.     So  extensive  were  its  privileges,  that  no 


St.  Gertrude.  LOUVAIN.  24.  Route.    201 

one  could  formerly  hold  a  public  appointment  in  the  Austrian  Nether- 
lands without  having  taken  a  degree  at  Louvain.  After  having  been 
closed  by  the  French  republicans ,  the  university  was  revived  by  the 
Dutch  government  in  1817.  A  philosophical  faculty  was  afterwards  in- 
stituted, notwithstanding  the  determined  opposition  of  the  clergy,  and 
complaints  to  which  the  innovation  gave  rise  are  said  to  have  contri- 
buted in  some  degree  to  the  Revolution  of  1830.  Since  1836  the  univer- 
sity has  been  re-organised,  and  has  assumed  an  exclusively  ecclesiastical 
character.  It  possesses  5  faculties,  and  is  attended  by  1500  students, 
many  of  whom  live  in  4  large  colleges  (Pedagogies  du  St.  Esprit.,  Marie- 
Thirise^  Adrien  F/.,  and  Juste  Lipse).  —  The  technical  academy  connected 
with  the  university  (Ecole  du  G^nie  CVrj7,  des  Arts  et  Manufactuves  el  des 
Mines)  is  rapidly  increasing:  an  Ecole  d' Agriculture  was  opened  in  1878,  and 
an  Ecole  de  Brasserie  in  1S37. 

The  churoh  of  St.  Gertrude  (PI.  12;  D,  2)  was  erected  in  the 
Flamboyant  style,  at  the  close  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  the  exception 
of  the  choir,  which  was  added  in  1514-26.  The  *Choir-stalls,  dat- 
ing from  the  first  half  of  the  16th  cent.,  and  embellished  with  sta- 
tuettes and  28  reliefs  of  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Saviour,  are 
considered  the  finest  specimen  of  late-Gothic  wood-carving  in  Bel- 
gium; they  were  executed  by  Mathias  de  Waydere.  The  bands  of 
ornamentation  in  the  Renaissance  style  (middle  of  16th  cent.)  are 
particularly  pleasing.  The  sacristy  contains  a  reliquary  of  the  14th 
century.    (Sacristan  at  No.  22,  near  the  principal  portal.) 

The  Rue  de  Namur,  Rue  de  Malines,  Rue  de  Diest,  Rue  de 
Bruxelles,  and  other  streets  contain  various  old  houses  with  hand- 
some facades.  The  Refuge  des  Vieillards  in  the  Rue  de  Namur  in- 
cludes a  court  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  Jansenius  Tower,  on 
the  Dyle,  dates  from  the  15th  century.  —  A  street  ascends  to  the 
S.E.  from  the  Place  du  Peuple  to  the  church  of  St.  Joseph  (PL  14; 
E,  3),  in  the  Flamboyant  style,  with  an  unfinished  tower.  The 
interior,  recently  restored,  is  of  remarkably  beautiful  proportions. 
The  aisles  and  choir  contain  good  frescoes  by  Meunier  of  Brussels 
and  Dujardin  of  Antwerp. 

The  church  of  St.  Michael  (PI.  15  ;  E,  3),  erected  by  the  Jesuits 
in  1650-66.  contains  modern  pictures  by  Mathieu ,  De  Keyset, 
Wappers,  and  others.  The  proportions  of  the  interior  are  remarkably 
symmetrical ,  and  the  an^hitectural  details  show  a  curious  affinity 
to  the  Gothic  style.    The  farade  is  also  worthy  of  notice. 

The  church  of  St.  Jacques  (PL  13  ;  D,  2"),  possesses  several  pic- 
tures of  the  school  of  Rubens,  several  modern  works,  a  St.  Hubert 
by  De  Crayer,  and  a  fine  Tabernacle  in  stone,  executed  in  1467, 
with  a  copper  balustrade  in  the  Renaissance  style,  cast  by  Jan 
Veldeneer  in  1568.  In  the  sacristy  are  finely  embroidered  vest- 
ments, and  two  handsome  reliquaries  of  St.  James  and  St.  Margaret. 

The  Penitencier,  a  prison  for  solitary  confinement,  is  in  the 
Boulevard  du  Jodoigne,  between  the  Porte  de  Tirlemont  and  Porte 
de  Pare.  It  was  opened  in  1860,  and  is  the  most  famous  in  Bel- 
gium, having  room  for  634  convicts.  The  Maison  d'' Arret  (PL  21), 
completed  in  1869,  has  accommodation  for  204  prisoners. 


202     Route  25.  LIGNY. 

'■Caesar's  Castle\  as  the  ancient  stronghold  of  the  counts  and  dukes, 
situated  on  an  eminence  near  the  Porte  de  Malines,  was  called,  has  al- 
most entirely  disappeared.  It  derives  its  name  from  an  unfounded  tra- 
dition that  it  was  originally  erected  by  the  great  Roman  general.  The 
Emp.  Charles  V.  and  his  sisters  were  educated  in  this  castle  by  the 
learned  Adrian  Floriszoon,   afterwards  Pope  Adrian  VI. 

25.  From  Louvain  to  Charleroi. 

40  M.    Railway   in   2V4-3  hrs.   (fares  5  fr.  20,  3  fr.  90,  2  fr.  GO  c). 

The  line  passes  several  places  memorable  in  the  campaign  of 
1815.  The  country  traversed  is  at  first  flat.  Stations:  Heverle,  with 
a  chateau  and  park  of  the  Due  d'Arenherg,  and  in  the  neighbour- 
hood the  magnificent  Abhaye  du  Pare  (founded  in  1179),  with  five 
large  gateways ;  Joris-Weert,  FLorival^  Gastuche;  ( I472  M.)  Wavre, 
to  which  the  Prussians  retreated  after  the  battle  of  Ligny,  with  a 
handsome  monument  by  Van  Oemberg  [tramway  to  Jodoigne,  see 
p.  196);  Limal;  (18  M.)  Ottignies,  where  the  Brussels  and  Namur 
line  is  crossed  (p.  191 );  Court-St.  Etienne,  La  Roche. 

The  train  now  passes  close  to  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  Cister- 
cian abbey  of  *Vill€r3,  founded  in  1147  and  destroyed  in  1796,  and 
stops  at  (25  M.)  Villers-la-Ville.  The  ruins  lie  about  V4  ^-  *o 
the  N.  of  the  station.  The  road  to  them  skirts  the  Thyle.  At  the 
entrance  to  the  abbey  is  *Dumont's  Inn ,  where  each  visitor  pays 
Y2  fr.  Beyond  the  court  is  the  rectangular  Refectory,  a  tasteful 
structure  in  the  transition  style ,  with  two  rows  of  windows.  The 
Cloisters,  chiefly  Gothic,  date  from  the  14 -16th  cent.,  and  are 
adjoined  by  the  Gothic  Church,  erected  in  1240-72,  with  sub- 
sequent additions.  The  latter  contains  tombstones  of  Dukes  of 
Brabant  of  the  14th  century.  The  old  brewery  in  the  transition  style 
is  also  worthy  of  notice.  An  eminence  outside  the  Porte  de  Bru- 
xelles,  to  the  W.,  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  whole  ruin. 

271/2  M-  Tilly  is  believed  to  have  been  the  birthplace  of  the 
general  of  that  name.  29  M.  Marhais;  30 1/2  M.  Ligny,  famous 
for  the  battle  of  16th  June,  1815  (see  below).  —  33  M.  Fleurus 
(p.  203),  junction  for  the  lines  to  Gembloux-Ramillies-Landen 
(p.  196),  to  Tamines  (p.  184),  and  to  Nivelles-Baulers  (p.  130). 
35V2  M.  Ransart,  the  junction  of  a  line  from  Jumet  (p.  184)  to 
Fleurus  (see  above).  From  (38  M.)  Lodelinsart^  a  busy  place  with 
coal-mines  and  glass-works,  a  branch -line  runs  to  Chatelineau 
(p.  184).  —  Steam-tramway  to  Charleroi,  see  p.  183. 

Battle  Fields.  This  district  is  famous  in  military  annals  as  the  scene 
of  several  important  battles,  the  last  and  chief  of  which  was  that  of  Ligny. 

Sombreffe,  near  Marbais,  and  6  M.  from  Quatrebras  (p.  182),  was  occu- 
pied on  i5fh  June,  1815,  by  the  2nd  and  3rd  Prussian  Corps  d'Armee  under 
Marshal  Bliicher,  who  late  in  the  evening  received  intelligence  that  Gen. 
Biilow  with  the  14th  corps  could  not  come  to  his  assistance  as  originally 
concerted.  The  brave  marshal  accordingly  resolved  to  fight  alone,  if  ne- 
cessary. Wellington  had  agreed  to  co-operate  with  BlUcher,  but  the 
British  troops  were  too  far  distant  to  render  assistance,  whilst  those 
whose  position  was  nearest  to  the  Prussians  were  fully  occupied  at  the 
Battle  of  Quatrebras.     It  is  well   authenticated  that   the  Duke  expressed 


L  ij  i  ©  I . 


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W 


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LifiGE.  26.  Route.     203 

his  disapprobation  of  Eliicher^s  position,  observing  to  the  Marshal  that 
'with  British  troops  he  would  have  occupied  the  ground  diflerently\ 
The  chief  disadvantages  of  the  ground  occupied  by  Bliicher  near  St. 
AuAND  and  Ligny,  which  he  regarded  as  the  keys  of  his  position,  were, 
that  there  was  too  little  security  in  the  direction  in  which  the  commu- 
nication with  the  British  was  to  be  maintained,  and  that  the  villages  in 
advance  of  the  line  were  too  distant  to  be  reinforced  without  enormous 
loss.  It  is  also  on  record,  that  the  Duke,  after  his  interview  with  the 
Marshal  on  the  morning  of  the  simultaneous  battles,  remarked  to  one 
of  his  staff,  'The  Prussians  will  make  a  gallant  fight ;  they  are  capital 
troops,  and  well  commanded;  but  they  will  be  beaten."  And  the  Prus- 
sians did  fight  most  gallantly,  well  sustaining  the  military  reputation 
of  their  country.  But  their  utmost  efforts  were  fruitless  •,  they  sustained 
immense  loss,  were  overmatched,  and  finally  repulsed,  but  not  conquered. 

According  to  the  official  statistics  of  both  sides  the  total  force  of 
the  French  at  Ligny  amounted  to  71,220  men,  with  242  guns,  that  of  the 
Prussians  to  83,410  men,  with  224  guns,  but  a  large  proportion  of  the 
French  army  was  composed  of  veteran  soldiers,  while  most  of  the  Prussian 
troops  were  comparatively  young  and  inexperienced.  The  French  artillery 
was  also  numerically  superior,  and  far  more  advantageously  placed. 

The  retreat  of  the  Prussian  army  on  the  night  after  the  Battle  of 
Ligny,  by  Tilli/  and  Mont  St.  Guibert  to  Wavre  (p.  202),  is  perhaps  without 
parallel  in  the  annals  of  military  warfare.  So  perfect  was  the  order  and 
so  great  the  skill  with  which  it  was  effected,  that  next  day  the  French 
were  entirely  at  a  loss  to  discover  in  which  direction  their  enemy  had 
disappeared,  and  at  length  came  to  the  conclusion  that  they  must  have 
taken  the  direction  of  Namur.  It  was  not  till  late  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  17th  that  the  real  route  of  the  Prussians  was  discovered  ,  and  Marshal 
Grouchy  was  dispatched  in  pursuit  of  Bliicher.  The  parts  acted  by  the 
different  armies  were  now  interchanged.  Napoleon  and  Ney,  united,  now 
proceeded  to  attack  Wellington ,  while  Bliicher  formed  the  3rd  Corps 
d'Armee  under  Thielmann  at  Wavre,  in  order  to  keep  Grouchy  in  check, 
and  himself  hastened  onwards  with  his  three  other  corps  towards  Belle- 
Alliance,  where  he  arrived  on  the  evening  of  the  18th,  in  time  to  act  a 
most  prominent  and  glorious  part  in  a  victory  of  incalculable  importance 
to  the  fate  of  the  whole  of  Europe  (p.  122). 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Ligny  lies  Fleurcs,  celebrated  for  the 
battles  of  1622  and  1690.  On  26th  June,  1794,  a  battle  also  took  place 
here  between  the  Austrian  army  under  the  Prince  of  Coburg,  and  the 
French  under  Marshal  Jourdan,  in  which  the  latter  gained  an  advantage. 
The  Austrians  had  stormed  the  French  intrenchments,  captured  twenty 
guns,  and  driven  the  French  back  to  Marchienne-au-Pont  (p.  182),  when 
the  Prince  owing  to  some  misunderstanding ,  ordered  his  troops  to  re- 
treat. Thi-  false  movement,  as  the  event  proved,  ultimately  contributed 
to  the  loss  of  the  whole  of  Belgium.  It  is  a  curious  historical  fact,  that 
on  this  occasion  a  balloon  was  employed  by  the  French  in  order  to 
reconnoitre  the  Austrian  position,  but  with  what  success  it  does  not  appear. 

40  M.    Charleroi,  see  p.  183. 


26.  Li^ge  and  Seraing. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Station  des  Guillemins  (PI.  A,  B,  7),  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Meuse,  for  Aix-la-Chapelle,  Brussels,  Namur,  Paris,  and 
Luxembourg.  2.  Station  de  Vivegnis  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  for  the  Dutch  trains, 
on  the  S.E.  side,  a  long  way  from  the  centre  of  the  town,  but  connected 
with  the  Station  des  Guillemins  and  the  Station  du  Palais  by  a  junction 
line.  3.  Station  du  Palais,  near  the  Palais  de  Justice  (PI.  B,  2),  and  4.  Sta- 
tion de  Jonfosse  (PI.  A,  3,  4),  both  on  the  connecting  line  between  the  two 
stations  first  mentioned,  on  which  trains  run  hourly  in  each  direction, 
between  5.30  a.m.  and  11  p.m.  (i'4hr. ;  fares  35,  25,  "20  c.).  5.  Station  de 
Longdoz  (PI.  C,  D,  5),  on  the  right  bank,  for  Maastricht,  Namur,  and  Paris. 


204    Route  26. 


LIEGE. 


Hotels. 


Hotels.  *HuTEL  DE  Su^DE  (PI.  a;  B,  3),  Rue  de  rHarmonie  7,  close  to 
the  theatre,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  4-61/2,  B.  IV2,  dej-S'/j,  D.  at  6  o'cl.  4i/-j,  pens, 
(except  in  Aug.)  from  8,  board  61/2  fr.  i  ^Hotel  u'Angletekke  (PI.  b  ;  D,  3), 
Rue  des  Dominicains  2,  R.  2'/-8,  L.  1/2,  A.  V4,  B.  iV4-l'/2,  dej.  2V-.>,  D. 
372-5,  pens.  8-12  fr. ;  Hotel  de  l'Edeope  (PI.  c;  B,  3),  Rue  llamal  6,  these 
two  at  the  back  of  the  theatre.  —  *H6tel  Mohren,  Place  St.  Paul  and 
Rue  du  Pont  d'Avroy  31,  with  large  restaurant  and  cafe,  R.  2-5,  B.  1,  '■plat 
du  jour'  from  1,  D.  3,  S.  3  fr.  ^  Hotel  Vkxitien,  Rue  Ilamal  2,  near  the 
theatre  (PI.  B,  3);  Hotel  d'Allemagne  (PI.  f;  B,  3),  Place  du  Theatre  6. 
—  Hotel  Docnen  (Avx  Fr^res  Provengaux),  Hue  Souverain-Pont  46,  with 
cafe-restaurant,  E.,  L.,  &  A.  21/2-3V2,  B.  1-11/4,  di'j.  3,  U.  3  fr.,  well  spoken 
of;  Pommelette  (PI.  g;  C,  3),  Rue  Souverain-Pont  44;  Hot.  de  Dinant, 
Rue  St.  Etienne  2,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3-7,  B.  1,  dej.  2,  D.  2V-',  pens,  from  5  fr. 
(R.  extra);  Hotel  de  France,  Rue  de  la  Cathe'drale  13;  Hotel  Charle- 
magne, Place  St.  Lambert  (PI.  B,  C,  3).  —  The  Hotels  de  l'Univeus  ,  du 
Chemin  de  Fee,  Hotel-Restaurant  du  Midi,  and  others,  near  the  principal 
station  (Guillemins),  and  the  Hotel  de  l'Industkie,  Rue  Grctry  89,  oppo- 
site the  Station  de  Longdoz,  are  convenient  for  travellers  arriving  late  or 
starting  early  by  railway. 

Restaurants".  ^ Bernay  ^  Rue  des  Dominicains  22  (PI.  B,  3);  'ifohre7i^ 
see  above;  'Hotel  Doinien,  see  above;  'Cafe  Vinitien,  see  above;  Citfi-Restau- 
runt  Continental^  Place  Verte;  Cafi  Charlemagne^  Cafi  de  Dinant,  in  the 
hotels  of  these  names. 

Cafes.  ''Cafi  du  Phare,  Place  Verte  (PI.  B,  3),  lighted  by  electricity, 
with  numerous  billiard-tables;  "Cafi  Vinitien,  by  the  theatre;  Cafi  de  la 
Renaissance,  also  a  restaurant,  in  the  Passage;  Cafi  Contiiiental,  Cafi 
Charlemayne,  see  above;  Trink-Hall,  Square  d'Avroy  (p.  206). 

Beer.  ''Mohren,  see  above,  Vienna  and  Bavarian  beer  35c.,  good 
cuisine;  Tavcrne  Britannique,  hy  the  theatre  (D.,  from  12  to  3,  2-3  fr.,  'plat 
du  jour'  1  fr. ;  English  beer);  Taverne  Anglaise,  Rue  de  la  Cathedrale; 
Taverne  de  Strasbourg,  Rue  Lulay,  near  the  Passage;  Taverne  Blonden^ 
Avenue  Blonden. 


Cabs.   Tarifl"  for  one  or 

Closed  C 

arriages. 

Open  Ca 

rriages. 

more  persons : 

One-horse 

Two-horse 

One-horse 

Two-horse 

A.  Bij  time     :  1  hour .     .     . 

1  fr.  50  c. 

2  fr.  50  c. 

2  fr.  -  c. 

3  fr.  —  c. 

Per  additional 

1/2  hr. 

—  -  75  - 

i   -  25  - 

1 

1   -  50  - 

B.  Per  drive  :  In  the  town  . 

1  -  —  - 

1   -  50  - 

1   -  50  - 

2  -  —  - 

To  the  Citadel 

or  the  Char- 

treuse    .     . 

2 

3 

2  -  50  - 

3  -  50  - 

Waiting,  each  1/4  hr.,  one-horse  25,  two-horse  50  c.  —  Double  fares 
from  11  p.m.  to  6  a.m. 

Tramway  (comp.  the  Plan).  From  the  Place  du  Thidtre  (PI.  B,  3)  to 
the  stations  Guillemins  (PI.  A,  B,  7)  and  Longdoz  (PI.  C,  1),  5),  and  to  the 
N.E.  suburb  of  St.  Uonard  (PI.  D,  E,  1,  2)  and  Hernial  (j).  359).  From  the 
Place  St.  Lambert  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  to  the  suburb  of  Ste.  Marguerite  and  to 
Ilaui-Pri  on  the  W. ,  and  to  the  Pont  des  Arches  and  Comillon  on  the 
E.  —  Steam  Tramway  from  the  Quai  de  TUniversitc  (PI.  C,  3,  4)  to  Je- 
meppe  and  Seraing  (p.  212). 

Steamboats  up-stream  to  Seraing  (p.  212),  and  down  to  the  Cannon 
Foundry  (p.  205),  starting  from  the  Echise  du  Siminaire,  Boul.  Frere  Or- 
ban  (p.  2uG),  every  20  min.  in  summer  and  every  1/2  hr.  in  winter. 

Weapons.  Liege  contains  180  manufactories  of  arms ,  or  rather 
depots  of  arms,  for  the  pieces  are  made  and  mounted  by  the  workmen 
in  their  own  houses.  These  mechanics,  40,000  in  number,  work  at  their 
own  risk,  as  a  piece  containing  the  slightest  llaw  is  at  once  rejected.  — 
Among  the  chief  stores  for  weapons  for  show  or  sport  are:  Arnold,  Rue 
de  la  Cathedrale  66;  Demoulin ,  Boul.  de  la  Sauveniere  102;  Francofte, 
Rue  Mont  St.  Martin  66;  H.  Pieper,  Rue  des  Bayards  12-10;  J.  B.  Rongi 
Fits,  Place  St.  Jean  2;  Bresse,  Laloux  d-  Cie.,  Rue  sur  la  Fontaine  51; 
Banquet,  Rue  Charles  Morren  18. 


Manufactories.  LllfcGE.  26.  Route.    205 

Photographs.  Dandoy,  Boul.  d'Avroy  19;  A.  Zegen,  Eoul.  de  la  Sau- 
veniere  137;  .4.  Straus,  Rue  dc  la  Cathedrale  24. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  Rue  de  I'Universite  34. 

United  States  Consul:  Mr.  James  R.  Danfovth. 

Principal  Attractions.  Palais  de  Justice,  the  court  (p.  SO"^);  Church  of 
St.  Jacques  (p.  211);  St.  Paul's  (p.  211);   view  from   the  Citadel   (p.  212). 

Liege,  Flem.  Luik,  Ger.  Lilttich,  with  142,300  iiihab.,  the  cap- 
ital of  the  Walloon  district,  and  formerly  the  seat  of  a  principality 
of  the  name,  lies  in  a  strikingly  picturesque  situation.  The  ancient 
and  extensive  city  rises  on  the  lofty  bank  of  the  broad  Meuse ,  at 
the  influx  of  the  Ourthe.  Numerous  chimneys  bear  testimony 
to  the  industry  of  the  inhabitants,  while  the  richly  -  cultivated 
valley  contributes  greatly  to  enhance  the  picturesque  effect. 

The  Meuse  flows  through  the  city  in  a  partly-artificial  channel, 
and  forms  an  island,  which  is  connected  with  each  bank  by  six 
bridges,  including  the  railway-bridge  (p.  2*25)  and  a  small  iron 
foot-bridge  ('Passerelle').  The  principal  part  of  the  town,  with  the 
chief  public  buildings  and  churches  lies  on  the  left  bank.  The 
quarters  on  the  right  bank  (known  as  Outremeust')  consist  mainly 
of  factories  and  the  dwellings  of  the  artizans.  Most  of  the  streets 
in  the  old  part  of  the  town  are  narrow  and  the  buildings  insigni- 
ficant. Several  new  streets,  however,  have  lately  been  made,  and 
extensive  quays  and  squares  have  been  laid  out.  The  city  is  sur- 
rounded by  new  fortifications  and  a  wide  circle  of  detached  forts. 

The  coal-mines  which  form  the  basis  of  the  commercial  pros- 
perity of  Liege ,  are  situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  many 
of  them  extend  beneath  the  houses  and  the  river.  One  of  the 
chief  branches  of  industry  is  the  manufacture  of  weapons  all  kinds, 
which  have  enjoyed  both  a  European  and  a  Transatlantic  reputa- 
tion since  the  end  of  last  century.  As,  however,  the  weapons  of 
Liege  are  not  made  in  large  manufactories  (see  p.  205),  they  find 
formidable  rivals  in  the  cheaper  productions  of  England  and 
America.  The  Liege  zinc  foundries,  engine-factories,  and  other 
branches  of  industry,  are  also  of  great  importance.  Among  the 
chief  industrial  establishments  are  the  royal  Gun  Factory  (PI.  D,  2), 
the  Cannon  Foundry  (PI.  E,  2),  and  the  Societe  de  St.  Leonard 
(machinery,  locomotives),  all  in  the  suburb  of  St.  Leonard 
(PL  D,  E,  1,  2). 

The  Walloons  (p.  xiv)  are  an  active,  intelligent,  and  enterprising 
race.  '■Cives  Leodicenses  sunt  ingeniosi ,  sagaces  et  ad  quidvis  audendum 
prompW  is  the  opinion  expressed  by  Guicciardini  with  regard  to  the 
Lic'geois.  Indefatigable  industry  and  a  partiality  for  severe  labour  are 
among  their  strongest  characteristics,  but  they  have  frequently  manifested 
a  fierce  and  implacable  spirit  of  hostility  towards  those  who  have  at- 
tempted to  infringe  their  privileges.  On  such  occasions  they  have  never 
scrupled  to  wield  the  weapons  which  they  manufacture  so  skilfully. 
The  history  of  Liege  records  a  series  of  sanguinary  insurrections  of  the 
turbulent  and  unbridled  populace  against  the  oppressive  and  arrogant 
bishops  by  whom  they  were  governed.  Foreign  armies  have  frequently 
been  invoked  by  the  latter  to  chastise  their  rebellious  subjects.  Thus 
Charles  the  Bold  of  Burgundy  took  the  town  in  1468,  razed  its  walls, 
and  put  thousands   of   the  inhabitants    to    death   by    the  sword  or    by 


206    Route  26.  Lli:GE.  Square  d'Avroy. 

drowning  in  the  Meuse.  Maximilian-  I.  also  took  violent  possession  of 
the  town  on  two  occasions.  In  1675,  1684,  and  1691  it  was  captured  by 
the  French,  and  in  1702  it  had  to  yield  to  Marlborough.  In  the  revolu- 
tionary wars  of  1792-94,  Liege  was  the  scene  of  several  contests  between 
the  French  and  the  Austrians.  The  bishops  retained  their  supremacy  till 
the  French  Revolution  in  1794,  when  the  city  was  finally  severed  from 
the  German  Empire.  In  ancient  times  the  bishops  possessed  a  Walloon 
body-guard  of  5C)0  men;  and  Walloon  soldiers,  like  the  Swiss,  were  |in 
the  habit  of  serving  in  the  armies  of  Spain,  France,  and  Austria.  They 
enjoyed  a  high  reputation  for  bravery,  which  has  been  justly  extolled  by 
Schiller  in  his  'Wallenstein'. 

Leaving  the  Station  des  Guillemins  (PL  A,  B,  7),  we  follow  the 
Rue  des  Guillemins  (good  view  of  the  town)  in  a  straight  direction 
to  the  *Square  d'Avroy  (PL  B,  5),  which  is  tastefully  laid  out  on 
ground  once  occupied  by  an  arm  of  the  Meuse.  It  is  embellished 
with  several  bronze  statues  ,  most  of  them  cast  by  the  Compagnie 
des  Bronzes  at  Brussels,  and  with  the  Trink-Hall,  a  cafe  built  in 
an  Oriental  style.  A  band  plays  here  every  evening  in  summer.  The 
equestrian /5«a<uc  of  Charlemagne  (F\.  B,5)  was  made  and  presented  to 
the  town  by  the  sculptor  Jehotte.  The  emperor,  who  is  said  to  have 
conferred  on  the  city  its  earliest  privileges,  is  represented  in  a  com- 
manding attitude,  as  if  exhorting  his  subjects  to  obey  the  laws. 
The  pedestal  in  the  Romanesque  style  is  adorned  with  statues  of 
Pepin  of  Landen,  St.  Begga,  Pepin  of  Heristal ,  Charles  Martel, 
Pepin  the  Little,  and  Queen  Bertha.  The  square  is  bounded  by 
the  Avenue  d'Avroy  and  the  Avenue  Rogier.  On  the  side  next  the 
latter  is  a  terrace,  with  fine  candelabra,  urns,  and  four  *Groups  in 
bronze  by  L.  Mignon,  of  Lioge.  Along  the  river  runs  the  handsome 
Boulevard  Frere-Orban.  —  Adjacent,  in  the  Boulevard  Piercot,  is 
the  new  Koyal  Conservatoire  of  Music,  erected  after  plans  by  L. 
Demany  of  Liege,  which  is  attended  by  650  pupils.  The  teaching 
of  striTiged  instruments  at  Liege  is  especially  celebrated.  The  con- 
cert-hall seats  1700  persons.  For  admission  apply  to  the  concierge, 
in  the  wing  in  the  Rue  Forgeur.  —  St.  Jacques,  see  p.  211. 

The  Square  d'Avroy  is  continued  towards  the  N.  by  the  Boulb- 
VARU  d'Avroy  and  the  Boulevard  de  la  Sauvenibre  (PL  B, 
3,  4),  both  shaded  with  trees  and  forming  favourite  evening-prome- 
nades. A  line  view  of  the  Church  of  St.  Martin  (p.  207),  which 
stands  on  an  elevated  site,  is  obtained  here. 

The  Boulevard  de  la  Sauveniere  leads  in  a  wide  curve  to  the 
Place  du  Theatre  (PL  B,  3),  which  may  be  regarded  as  the 
centre  of  the  town.  The  Theatre  was  built  in  1808-22  after  the 
model  of  the  Odeon  at  Paris ,  and  was  thoroughly  restored  inter- 
nally in  1861.  The  facade  is  adorned  with  eight  columns  of  red 
Belgian  marble.  Performances  take  place  in  winter  only.  In  front 
of  the  theatre  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Gretry,  the  composer  (d.  1813), 
designed  by  W.  Geefs.  The  heart  of  the  master,  who  was  a  native  of 
Liege,  is  deposited  beneath  the  granite  pedestal. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Place  du  The'atre,  at  the  end  of  the  Rue  Ilamal, 
is  the  Church  of  St.  Jean  (PL  B,  3),  erected  in  982  by  Bishop 


St.  Martin.  LI^GE.  26.  Route,     207 

Notger,  on  the  model  of  the  cathedral  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  but 
entirely  rebuilt  in  1754-57.  The  octagonal  ground-plan  of  the  ori- 
ginal edifice  has,  however,  been  adhered  to,  a  long  choir  having 
been  added  on  the  east.  The  Romanesque  tower  belongs  to  the 
the  12th,  the  cloisters  perhaps  to  the  14th  century. 

From  the  N.  side  of  the  Place  the  Rue  Haute  Sauveniere  ascends 
to  the  N.W.  to  the  — 

Church  of  Ste.  Croix  (PI.  B,  3),  founded  by  Bishop  Notger  in 
979  on  the  site  of  an  old  castle,  but  afterwards  repeatedly  altered. 
The  Romanesque  W.  choir,  built  about  1175,  with  its  octagonal 
tower  and  gallery  of  dwarf  columns,  recalls  the  architecture  of  the 
lower  Rhine  (p.  xxxvii) ;  the  E.  choir  and  the  nave  are  in  the  Gothic 
style  of  the  14th  century.  The  whole  church  has  been  recently 
restored.  The  nave  and  aisles,  of  equal  height,  and  borne  by 
slender  round  columns,  are  remarkable  for  their  light  and  graceful 
effect.  The  pillars  are  of  blue  limestone ,  the  walls  and  vaulting 
of  yellowish  sandstone.  In  the  chapels  are  fourteen  medallion-reliefs 
of  the  Stations  of  the  Cross  (14th  or  15th  cent.).  The  stained  glass 
in  the  choir  was  executed  »in  1854  by  Kellner  of  Munich  and  Ca- 
pronnier  of  Brussels. 

Following  the  Rue  Mont-St.  Martin  to  the  left,  we  reach  the 
conspicuous  and  loftily-situated  Church  of  St.  Martin  {Basili'iue 
St.  Martin  ;  PL  A,  3  ;  recently  restored),  founded  by  Bishop  Hera- 
clius  in  962,  and  rebuilt  in  the  Gothic  style  in  1542,  almost  simul- 
taneously with  the  Church  of  St.  Jacques  (p.  211).  Unlike  that  edi- 
fice, however,  its  proportions  are  severe  and  simple,   but  imposing. 

The  IsTERioE,  consisting  of  nave  and  aisles  with  spacious  lateral 
chapels,  is  90  yds.  long  and  23  yds.  wide.  The  stained  glass  of  the 
choir  (still  under  restoration)  and  transept  is  of  the  16th  cent.,  the  modern 
reliefs,  representing  the  story  of  St.  Martin,  were  executed  by  P.  Franck, 
and  the  landscapes  above  are  by  Juppin  (d.  1729).  —  The  first  lateral 
chapel  on  the  right  is  adorned  with  fourteen  marble  medallions  by  Delcour^ 
in  memory  of  the  origin  of  the  /estival  of  Corpus  Christi  (Fete  Bieu), 
which  was  first  instituted  in  this  church  in  the  year  1246,  in  consequence 
of  a  vision  beheld  by  St.  Juliana,  Abbess  of  the  neighbouring  convent  of 
Cornillon  (p.  212),  and  eighteen  years  later  was  ordained  to  be  observed 
throughout  Christendom  by  Pope  Urban  IV. ,  who  had  been  a  canon  at 
the  cathedral  of  Liege  at  the  time  of  the  'vision'.  A  marble  slab  under 
the  organ  bears  an  inscription  commemorating  the  500th  anniversary  of 
the  festival.  —  On  4th  Aug.,  1312,  the  church  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
having  become  ignited  during  a  fierce  conflict  between  the  burghers  and 
the  nobles.  Two  hundred  of  the  adherents  of  the  latter,  who  had  been 
forced  by  the  infuriated  populace  to  take  refuge  in  the  church,  perished 
in  the  flames. 

The  tower  commands  an  admirable  prospect  (the  sacristan  lives  to 
the  W.  of  the  principal  tower ;  adm.  1  fr.,  small  fee  to  the  attendant). 

The  Place  Verte,  a  broad  thoroughfare,  leads  E.  from  the  Place 
du  Theatre  to  the  Place  St.  Lambert  (PL  B,  C,  2),  on  which  once 
stood  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Lambert,  ruined  by  the  French  sansculottes 
and  their  brethren  of  Liege  in  1794,  and  completely  removed  in 
1808.  Here  also  for  several  centuries  has  stood  the  episcopal  palace, 
which  is  now  used  as  the  — 


208    Route  26.  LifiGE.  Hotel  de  Ville. 

*Palai8  de  Justice  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  erected  in  1508-40  by  Car- 
dinal Eberhard  de  la  Mark,  a  kinsman  of  the  'Wild  Boar  of  Arden- 
nes' (see  p.  215).  The  facade  towards  the  Place  St.  Lambert  was 
re-erected  in  1737  after  its  destruction  by  lire,  and  the  whole  was 
restored  in  1848-56,  when  the  W.  Aving,  accommodating  the  GoU' 
vemement  Provincial,  was  erected.  The  fa<;ade  of  the  latter  is  em- 
bellished with  sculptures  and  it  contains  a  large  frescoed  hall.  The 
building  contains  two  courts,  surrounded  by  vaulted  arcades,  ex- 
hibiting a  curious  blending  of  the  late-Gothic  and  Renaissance  styles. 
The  cleverly-exesuted  capitals,  which  consist  of  grotesque  masks, 
fantastic  foliage,  figures,  etc.,  are  by  Francois  Borset  of  Liege.  The 
ribs  of  the  vaulting  are  in  blue,  and  the  intervening  surfaces  in 
light-yellow  limestone  (or  in  the  restored  parts  in  brick).  The  first 
court,  which  serves  as  a  public  thoroughfare,  has  been  in  part  freely 
but  skilfully  restored.  The  second  court,  which  has  arcades  on  two 
sides  only,  has  been  laid  out  as  a  garden  and  contains  several  archi- 
tectural fragments.  During  the  sitting  of  the  courts  the  Palais  de 
Justice  may  be  entered  from  the  Rue  du  Palais  or  from  the  S.E. 
angle  of  the  first  court.  The  buildings  enclosing  the  second  court, 
the  exterior  facades  of  which  have  been  restored,  contain  the  Ar- 
chives and  an  Arch(eological  Museum.  * 

The  Musee  Archeologique  is  open  on  Sun.,  11-1,  free;  at  other  times 
it  is  opened  by  the  concierge,  who  lives  in  the  back  corner  of  the  first 
court,  for  a  fee  of  1  fr.  It  occupies  the  second  floor  of  the  S.  wing  of  the 
second  court.  _  The  Koman  Room  contains  antiquities  found  chiefly  in  the 
province  of  Liege  :  in  the  middle  is  a  glass-case  containing  a  ~Ewer  and  Ba- 
sin, a  fragment  of  a  bronze  Ticket  granting  honourable  discharge  to  a  legion- 
ary (of  the  time  of  Trajan;  98  A.D.),  the  Stamp  of  a  Roman  physician, 
and  other  objects  in  bronze.  At  the  back  of  the  room  is  the  so-called  '^Fon- 
taine d'' Angleur  (p.  214),  with  bronze  figures  of  a  lion,  ram,  scorpion,  and 
fish,  heads  of  Satyrs  and  Medusa,  etc.  The  other  show-cases  contain  Sigil- 
lata  and  other  Roman  vessels  in  terracotta,  roofing  tiles,  and  Gallo- 
Franlish  Antiquities  in  gold,  silver,  glass,  and  terracotta.  —  The  Galekie 
d'Otrkppe  is  devoted  to  furniture,  pottery,  glasS;  and  other  objects  of 
the  Middle  Ages  and  the  Renaissance.  —  Another  long  Galleky  contains 
plaster-casts,  and  architectural  and  sculptural  fragments. 

The  ground  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  theGouvernement  Pro- 
vincial (see  above)  ascends  rapidly  and  the  slope  (Puhlemont)  is 
embellished  with  pleasure-grounds  and  a  fountain.  At  the  corner  to 
the  left  is  the  TheCitre  du  Gymnase.  The  steps  ascend  to  the  Place 
St.  Pierre,  with  the  churches  of  Ste.  Croix  (p.  207)  and  St.  Martin 
(p.  207).  —  Opposite  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  same  wing  is  the  Sta- 
tion du  Palais  (p.  203),  at  the  end  of  the  tunnels  by  which  the 
junction-line  passes  under  the  lofty  W.  quarters  of  the  city. 

The  Place  St.  Lambert  is  adjoined  on  the  N.  E.  by  the  Geand 
Marchk  (PI.  C,  3) ,  in  which  rises  the  Hdtel  de  Ville,  built  in 
1714,  and  containing,  among  other  pictures,  a  portrait  by  Ingres 
of  Napoleon  as  First  Consul ,  who  presented  it  to  the  town  him- 
self in  1806.  Adjacent  is  the  domed  church  of  St.  Andrew,  now 
used  as  the  Exchange.  The  square  also  contains  three  poor  foun- 
tains.   The  Fontaine  des  Trois   Graces  in  the  centre  was  erected 


Pont  des  Arches.  LifiGE.  26.  Route.     209 

in  1696  from  Delcour's  designs.  The  two  others  bear  the  arms  of 
the  burgomasters  of  Liege,  and  those  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate. 

The  neighbouring  church  of  St.  Antoine  (PI.  C,  2),  erected 
in  the  13th  cent.,  was  rebuilt  in  the  16-17th  cent.,  and  lately 
restored  by  Systermans.  The  choir  is  embellished  with  four  wood- 
carvings  of  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Bruno,  and  frescoes  by  Carpey 
of  subjects  from  the  history  of  St.  Anthony  (1860-68). 

The  Municipal  Museum  (PI.  C,  2),  an  unimportant  col- 
lection of  works  of  Liege  artists  and  others,  is  contained  in  the  old 
Cloth  Hall  (1788),  Rue  Feronstree  65.  It  is  open  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  from  10  to  1,  on  other  days  on  payment  of  a  gratuity ;  porter 
at  the  Academie  des  Beaux-Arts,  No.  42  in  the  same  street.  Among 
the  painters  represented  are :  Barth.  Fle'malle.  Carlier,  Chauvin, 
Lairesse,  Vieillevoye,  PaulDelaroche  (36.  Mater  Dolorosa),  Lepoitte- 
vin(101.  Landscape),  Wiertz  (175.  Contest  for  the  body  of  Patroclus, 
repetition  with  alterations  of  the  Brussels  picture,  p.  112),  Wauters, 
Alb.  de  Vriendt,  V.  van  Hove,  De  Haas,  Koehler,  Roelofs,  etc. 

Farther  on,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Barthelemy 
(PL  D,  2),  a  basilica  of  the  12th  cent. ,  with  double  aisles  (originally 
single  only)  and  two  Romanesque  towers,  which  has  been  completely 
modernised.  The  Baptistery,  to  the  left  of  the  choir ,  contains  an 
interesting  *Font  in  bronze,  cast  in  1112  by  Lambert  Patras  of 
Dinant.  It  rests  on  twelve  oxen  ,  and  is  embellished  with  reliefs, 
representing  John  the  Baptist  preaching,  the  Baptism  of  Christ  in 
Jordan,  Peter  baptising  Cornelius  the  centurion,  and  John  the 
Evangelist  baptising  Crato  the  philosopher.  It  formerly  stood  in 
the  cathedral  of  St.  Lambert,  p.  208.  The  church  is  also  adorned 
with  pictures  by  Flemalle,  Dufour,  Fisen,  and  others.  —  Adjacent 
is  the  Mont  de  Piete.  Quai  de  Maastricht  10,  an  interesting  limestone 
and  brick  building  of  1560,  with  a  lofty  roof  and  curious  turrets. 
Some  of  the  sculptured  chimney-pieces  in  the  interior  are  inter- 
esting. —  The  old  prefecture  in  the  same  street  has  been  occupied 
since  1886  by  a  Musee  d'Armes,  in  which  fire-arms  are  especially 
well  represented.  Secretary,  M.  Polain.  Admission  gratis  daily, 
except  Tues.,  10-12  and  2-6  (2-4  in  winter),  on  Sun.  and  holidays 
2-6  only. 

A  new  street,  the  Rue  Leopold,  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the  Place 
St.  Lambert  to  the  Pont  des  Arches  (PI.  C,  3),  which  spans  the 
Meuse  in^flve  flat  arches,  and  has  recently  been  adorned  with  alle- 
gorical statues.  It  was  constructed  in  1860-63,  on  the  site  of  an 
older  bridge  mentioned  as  early  as  the  6th  cent.,  and  afterwards 
repeatedly  destroyed  and  renewed.  In  1685  a  strongly  fortified 
tower  (removed  in  1790)  was  erected  on  the  old  bridge,  to  prevent 
communication  between  the  two  quarters  of  the  city  during  civic 
revolts.  The  bridge  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  different  parts  of 
the  city,  extending  along  both  banks  of  the  river.  —  The  tramway- 
line  which  crosses  the  Pont  des  Arches  runs  to  Cornillon,  in  the 

Baei>ekek"s  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  14 


210     Route  26.  LifeGE.  University. 

Faubourg  d'Amercceur,  at  the  foot  of  the  Chartreuse  (p.  212),  in 
connection  with  the  'trains-tramways'  to  Vise  (p.  218),  which  stop 
at  Cornillon  (p.  212). 

Several  of  the  busiest  streets  in  Liege  lead  to  the  S.E.  from  the 
Place  du  Theatre,  among  others  the  Rue  de  la  Regence  and  the  Rue 
DE  l'Universite.  In  the  latter,  immediately  on  the  right,  is  the 
Passage  Lemonnier  (PI.  B,  3),  constructed  in  1837-39,  one  of  the 
first  of  the  glass-roofed  arcades  with  shops  now  so  common  in  the 
larger  European  towns. 

In  the  vicinity  is  the  Church  of  St.  Denis  (PI.  C,  3),  found- 
ed in  987;  the  present  edifice  dates  almost  entirely  from  the 
latter  half  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  additions  of  the  18th  century. 
The  left  transept  contains  a  handsome  winged  altar,  executed  about 
the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  representing,  on  the  right,  Christ  entering 
Jerusalem;  on  the  left,  Christ  bearing  the  cross;  in  the  centre, 
above,  God  the  Father  and  Son,  beneath,  the  Sudarium  of  St.  Ve- 
ronica; to  the  right  and  left,  Apostles  and  Saints.  Beside  it  is  a 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Denis.  The  statues  of  the  Virgin  and  St.  Denis 
at  the  sides  of  the  high-altar  are  by  Delcour  (1707).  The  modern 
stained  glass  in  the  choir  is  by  Capronnier. 

At  the  end  of  the  Rue  de  l'Universite ,  and  with  its  back  to  the 
quay  of  that  name,  rises  the  University  (PL  C,  3,  4),  erected  in 
1817,  and  partly  incorporated  with  an  old  Jesuit  college.  The 
buildings  comprise  lecture-rooms,  academic  collections,  a  library 
(about  200,000  vols.),  excellent  apparatus  for  instruction  in  physi- 
cal science ,  and  a  natural  history  museum  containing  a  fine  col- 
lection of  the  fossil  bones  of  antediluvian  animals  found  in  the 
numerous  caverns  of  the  environs,  especially  in  that  of  Chokier 
(p.  221).  The  Anatomical  and  Physiological  Laboratories,  in  the 
Rue  de  Pitteurs,  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  in  the  Ruede  lUniversite', 
the  Zoological  Institute,  Quai  des  Pecheurs,  etc.,  have  all  been  erect- 
ed within  the  last  ten  years.  New  buildings  are  now  being  erected 
on  the  site  of  the  former  Aula  or  ha'].  —  The  Ecole  des  Mines  et 
des  Arts  et  Manufactures,  a  well-attended  institution,  and  a  train- 
ing-school for  teachers  (Ecole  Normale  des  Humanites)  are  connected 
with  the  university.  There  are  more  than  50  professors  in  all,  and 
1400  students,  one-third  of  whom  attend  the  mining  and  polytech- 
nic school. 

The  Place  in  front  of  the  university  is  embellished  with  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Andre  Dumont,  an  eminent  geologist  (d.  1857),  a  professor 
in  the  university  here,  and  author  of  the  Carte  Geologique  of 
Belgium,  by  Eug.  Simonis. 

A  little  above  the  university,  the  Meuse  is  crossed  by  the  Pont 
de  la  Boverie  (PI,  C,  4),  a  bridge  of  four  handsome  arches,  which  leads 
to  the  Quartier  de  Longdoz  and  the  railway-station  of  that  name. 

To  the  W.  of  the  university,   and  not  far  from  the  Passage  Le- 


St.  Jacques.  LltGE.  26.  Route.    211 

monnier,  rises  the  *Church  of  St.  Paul  (PI.  B,  4),  founded  by 
Bishop  Heraclius  in  968  ,  and  rebnilt  in  1280  (from  which  period 
dates  the  handsome  Gothic  choir) ,  while  the  nave  and  additions 
were  completed  in  1528.  It  was  originally  an  abbey  church,  and 
was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  cathedral  in  1802  (eomp,  p.  208).  The 
tower  (1812)  contains  a  set  of  chimes. 

The  In'terior  is  92  yds.  long,  37  yds.  broad,  and  80  ft.  high.  The 
nave  and  aisles  are  separated  by  round  pillars.  The  Nave  ia  encircled 
by  a  handsome  triforium-gallery  ^  the  vaulting  is  embellished  with  Re- 
naissance arabesques,  executed  in  1579,  and  restored  in  1860.  The  'Tulpit, 
carved  in  wood  by  TV.  Geefs  of  Brussels  (1844),  is  worthy  of  special  notice. 
Five  figures  in  marble,  also  by  W.  Geefs,  representing  Religion,  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul,  SS.  Lambert  and  Hubert,  serve  to  support  the  pulpit.  The  fallen  angel 
at  the  back  is  by  Jos.  Geefs,  a  brother  of  the  principal  master.  —  Right 
(S.)  Aisle:  2nd  Chapel,  Christ  in  the  sepulchre,  executed  in  marble  by  Del- 
couv  in  1696;  3rd  Chapel,  St.  Paul  bidding  farewell  to  St.  Peter,  also  by 
Delcour.  The  principal  subject  in  the  stained-glass  window  of  the  right 
transept  (1530)  is  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin.  —  The  Choir  contains 
both  ancient  and  modern  stained  glass ;  the  five  windows  in  the  apse  date 
from  1557-87,  the  modern  windows  are  by  Capronnier.  Here  also  is  a 
painting  by  Erasmus  Quellin,  representing  SS.  Gregory,  Jerome,  Ambrose, 
and  Augustine,  four  Fathers  of  the  Church.  The  choir-stalls  were  exe- 
cuted in  1864,  from  designs  by  Durlet  of  Antwerp ;  they  are  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  small  columns  and  reliefs,  representing,  on  the  right,  the 
Resurrection  of  Believers,  and,  on  the  left,  the  Translation  of  the  relics 
of  St.  Hubert.  The  high-altar  has  recently  been  renewed.  —  Left  (S.) 
Aisle:  Stained  glass  by  Capronnier;  3rd  Chapel,  Marble  statue  of  the  Vir- 
gin, by  Rob.  Arnold,  a  Carthusian  monk  of  the  18th  century. 

The  Treasury  (adm.  2  fr.)  is  worthy  of  attention ;  it  contains,  among 
other  objects,  a  statuette  of  St.  George  in  gold  enamel,  presented  by  Charles 
the  Bold  in  expiation  of  his  destruction  of  the  town  in  1468  (p.  205). 

The  *ChTirch  of  St.  Jacques  (PI.  B,  4),  near  the  Boulevard  Pier- 
cot  (p.  206),  to  the  S."\V. ,  was  founded  by  Bishop  Balderic  II.  in 
1016,  and  received  its  Romanesque  "W.  tower  in  1163-73,  but  dates 
in  its  present  form  from  1513-38.  It  is  a  magnificent  edifice  in  the 
late-Gothic  style,  with  a  polygonal  choir  encircled  by  small  chapels. 
The  Renaissance  portal  on  the  N.  side  was  added  by  Lombard  in 
1558-60.  The  church  has  been  sumptuously  and  tastefully  restored 
since  1833. 

The  Interior  is  87  yds.  long,  33  yds.  broad,  and  75  ft.  high.  Its  de- 
coration, particularly  the  filigree  ornamentation  bordering  the  arches,  and 
the  gorgeously-coloured  enrichment  of  the  groined  vaulting,  reminds  one 
of  the  Moresco-Spanish  style.  The  fine  stained- glass  windows  of  the 
choir,  dating  from  1520-40,  represent  the  Crucifixion,  the  donors,  their  ar- 
morial bearings,  and  their  tutelary  saints.  The  elaborate  stone-carving  in 
the  choir  (winding  staircase  in  two  flights),  and  the  organ-case  in  the  nave, 
carved  by  Andreas  Severin  of  Maastricht  (d.  1673),  also  deserve  notice.  — 
The  transept  contains  marble  altars  in  the  Renaissance  style.  Over  the 
left  altar  is  a  fine  Mater  Dolorosa,  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.  ;  in 
the  right  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Balderic  II.,  founder  of  the  church, 
restored  in  the  Renaissance  style.  —  The  aisles  contain  modern  reliefs 
of  scenes  from  the  Passion. 


The  Zoological  Garden,  or  Jardin  d' Acclimatation  (PI.  C,  6 ; 
admission  1  fr.),  contains  only  a  small  collection  of  animals,  but 
the  grounds  are  prettily  laid  out  and  afford  a  fine  view  of  part  of 

14* 


212   Route  26.  SERAING. 

the  upper  town.     Concerts  are  frequently  given  here  in  summer. 
Adjoining  the  gardens  is  the  public  Pare  de  la  Boverie. 

The  Botanic  Garden  (PI.  A,  5)  is  open  the  whole  day;  the  hot- 
houses (fine  palms)  are  shown  on  application  to  the  head-gardener. 
Adjacent  is  the  Fharmaceutical  Institute. 


The  finest  *View  of  Liege  is  afforded  by  the  Citadel  (PI.  C,  1), 
520  ft.  above  the  sea-level ,  erected  by  the  Prince-Bishop  Maxi- 
milian Henry  of  Bavaria  in  1650,  on  the  site  of  earlier  fortifications. 
It  may  be  reached  in  20-25  min.  by  ascending  one  of  the  steep 
streets,  Rue  Pierreuse  or  Montagne  Ste.  Walburg,  or  by  the  some- 
what less  fatiguing  flight  of  steps,  which  affords  excellent  views, 
at  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Rue  Hors-Chateau.  Admission  is  usually 
granted  without  difficulty  on  application  to  the  Commandant  at  the 
Bureau  de  Place,  Rue  Beckmann  49  (PI.  A,  4,  5).  The  view  em- 
braces the  extensive  city  lying  on  both  banks  of  the  river,  with 
its  numerous  towers  and  chimneys ,  and  the  populous  and  indus- 
trious valleys  of  the  Meuse,  the  Ourthe,  and  the  Vesdre.  The  pro- 
spect is  bounded  towards  the  S.  by  the  mountains  of  the  Ardennes; 
towards  the  N.  it  extends  to  the  Petersberg  near  Maastricht,  be- 
yond which  stretch  the  broad  plains  of  Limburg.  [Almost  the  same 
view  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  flights  of  steps  (see  above) 
which  ascend  beside  the  Protestant  church  and  from  the  N.E.  end 
of  the  Rue  Hors-Chateau  (PI.  C,  D,  1);  also  from  the  terrace  of 
the  little  Cafe  Panorama  (poor),  beside  the  first  flight.] 

The  Caserne  St.  Laurent  (PI.  A,  3,  4)  is  another  good  point  of 
view  (best  in  the  morning).  We  enter  at  the  back  from  the  Fau- 
bourg St.  Laurent  and  cross  the  court,  passing  the  guard,  to  the 
terrace  in  front  (no  fee). 

The  fortified  heights  of  the  Chartreuse  (PI.  E,  5,  6),  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Meuse,  also  commajid  a  charming  though  dif- 
ferent prospect.  The  best  point  is  the  garden  of  the  Hospice  de  la 
Chartreuse  (Asile  des  Petites  Soeurs  des  Pauvres)  for  old  men,  about 
half-way  up  the  hill ;  entrance  from  the  road  'Rue  Thier  de  la  Char- 
treuse' (ring;  Y2-I  ^r.  on  leaving;  tramway  to  Cornillon,  see 
pp.  204,  209).  —  Still  higher  lies  Robermont,  where  the  Prince  of 
Coburg  was  defeated  by  Marshal  Jourdan,  19th  Sept.,  1794,  in  the 
last  battle  fought  by  the  Austrians  on  Belgian  ground.  One  of  the 
chief  cemeteries  of  Liege  is  uearRobermont.  —  The  new  Avenue  de 
V  Observatoire  (PL  A,  6,  7),  beyond  the  Station  des  Guillemins, 
affords  a  pleasant  walk,  with  fine  views. 


Seraing. 

Steamboat  (V4-I  hr.)  every  20  min.  in  summer,  and  every  '/a  hr.  in 
winter,  from  7  a.m.   till  dusk  (fares  30  and  25  c. ;  see  p.  204). 

Steam  Tkamwat,  every  '/4  hr.  from  7  a.m.  to  8  p.m.,  starting  from 
the  Quai  de  TUniversit^  and  running  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Meuse 
to  Jemeppe,  where  the  terminus  is  close  to  the  (6  M.)  Seraing  bridge. 
Halting-places  every  330  yds.  \  fares  50  or  40  c. 


SERAING.  26.  Route.   213 

Railway  in  15-20  min.,  either  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Meuse  from 
the  Station  de  Longdoz  to  Sevaing,  or  on  the  left  bank  from,  the  Station 
des  Guillemins  to  Jemeppe  (distance  in  each  case  5  M.). 

The  *Excursion  to  Seraing  affords  a  most  interesting  insight 
into  the  extraordinary  industry  of  the  Walloon  country,  and  the 
steamboat  trip  is  picturesque.  After  passing  under  the  handsome 
railway-hridge  of  Val  B^noit  (p.  225),  we  notice  on  both  banks 
numerous  iron-foundries  and  steel-factories  of  all  kinds.  —  L.  Ougrie 
(rail.  stat. ,  right  bank).  R.  Sclessin,  with  blast-furnaces  and  coal- 
pits ,  and  Tilleur.  The  steamboat  stops  at  the  suspension-bridge 
which  connects  Seraing  and  Jemeppe  (5000  inhab.).  The  railway- 
stations  are  each  about  3  4  M.  from  the  bridge. 

Seraing  {Hotel  Bruyere,  near  the  quay),  a  town  with  31,400  in- 
hab., situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Meuse,  has  acquired  a  Eu- 
ropean reputation  on  account  of  its  vast  ironworks  and  manufac- 
tories. They  were  founded  in  1817  by  Jo/in  Cockerill^  an  Englishman, 
to  whom  the  works  belonged  jointly  with  William  I.,  Ring  of  the 
Netherlands,  down  to  the  revolution  of  1830,  when  he  purchased 
the  king's  share  and  thus  be<.'ame  sole  proprietor.  A  monument 
was  erected  to  him  in  1871  on  the  quay  in  front  of  the  Hotel  de 
Villa.  After  Cockerill's  death  in  1840  the  works  were  purchased 
by  a  company  with  a  capital  of  2 ','2  million  francs  (raised  to  15  mil- 
lions in  1871).  The  present  director  is  M.  A.  Greiner,  without 
whose  special  permission  visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  works. 

A  building  on  the  Meuse,  which  was  formerly  a  summer-palace 
of  the  bishop,  immediately  below  the  suspension-bridge,  now  forms 
the  entrance  to  the  establishment.  It  contains  the  residence  of  the 
director  and  the  archives  and  library  of  the  works.  The  workshops 
and  offices  occupy  an  area  of  270  acres,  and  employ  about  11,000 
hands,  whose  salaries  and  wages  amount  to  upwards  of  10  million  fr, 
annually.  Upwards  of  300  steam-engines,  of  14,500  horse-power 
collectively ,  are  in  constant  operation ,  and  1200  tons  of  fuel 
are  daily  consumed.  The  annual  value  of  the  products  amounts 
to  45  million  fr.,  and  the  works  are  capable  of  producing  yearly  100 
locomotives,  70  steamboat-engines,  1500  other  steam-engines,  the 
materials  for  14  iron-clads,  and  10,000  tons  of  cast  iron  for  the  con- 
struction of  bridges  and  other  purposes.  Down  to  1887,  the  work- 
shops of  Seraing  had  turned  out  65,000  engines  or  pieces  of  ma- 
chinery, including  the  first  locomotive  engine  built  on  the  Continent 
(1835)  and  the  machinery  used  in  boring  the  Mont  Cenis  Tunnel 
(1860 ).  The  establishment  comprises  every  branch  of  industry  con- 
nected with  the  manufacture  of  iron,  such  as  coal-mines,  ironstone- 
mines,  puddling  furnaces,  cast-steel  works,  and  engine-factories. 
The  hospital  and  orphanage  in  connection  with  the  establishment 
are  maintained  at  an  annual  cost  of  45,000  fr.  The  welfare  of  the 
workmen  is  also  provided  for  by  savings-banks,  by  sick  funds,  and 
by  good  elementary  and  technical  schools. 


214   Route  27.  TILFF. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Seraing  (up  the  river)  are  the  extensive 
coal-mines  and  blast-furnaces  of  the  Esperance  company;  and  farther 
distant,  the  glass-works  of  Val  St.  Lambert,  established  in  a  sup- 
pressed Cistercian  Abbey,  one  of  the  largest  manufactories  of  the 
kind  in  Europe. 

27.  From  Lihge  to  Marloie. 

40V'2M.  Railway  (Ligne  de  VOurthe)  in  1  hr.  55  min.  (fares  4  fr.  95, 
3  fr.  70,  2  fr.  50  c). 

The  train  starts  from  the  Station  des  Guillemins  at  Liege,  and 
follows  the  Pepinster  line  (p.  225)  as  far  as  (1 1/2  M.)  Angleur  (with 
a  zinc-foundry  of  the  Vieille  Montague  Company),  where  it  turns 
to  the  S.  into  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Ourthe,  a  tributary  of  the 
Meuse,  which  intersects  the  principal  part  of  the  Belgian  Ardennes 
in  numerous  windings  from  N.  to  S.  On  the  slope  to  the  left  at 
the  entrance  to  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley,  which  is  called 
the  ^Streupas'  (pas  etroit),  stands  the  chateau  of  Beau-Fraipont, 
with  its  massive  square  tower.  The  train  then  passes  the  foot  of 
an  eminence  crowned  with  the  turreted  chateau  of  Colonstere.  On 
the  opposite  bank  is  the  chateau  of  Ancre. 

6  M.  Tilff  (Hotel  des  Etrangers ;  Hotel  de  VAmiraute),  a  large 
village  prettily  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  and  reach- 
ed from  the  railway  by  an  iron  bridge,  is  much  resorted  to  in  sum- 
mer by  the  citizens  of  Liege.  Modern  Gothic  church.  About  2/4  M. 
below  it  is  the  Villa  Neef,  with  pretty  grounds.  About  1/2  ^-  above 
Tilff,  high  above  the  road,  is  the  entrance  to  a  not  very  easily  ac- 
cessible stalactite  cavern  (the  keeper  of  the  adjoining  cabaret  acts 
as  guide,  fee  about  2  fr.  ;  the  expedition  is  not  recommended  to 
ladies).    On  the  height  al3ove  it  is  the  chateau  of  Brialmont, 

The  train  then  passes  the  chateau  of  Monceau,  crosses  the  river, 
traverses  some  rock-cuttings  and  a  tunnel,  and  reaches  (10  M.) 
Esneux  (Hotel  Cobus;  Hotel  du  Pont;  Bellevue;  Mille  Colonnes), 
strikingly  situated  on  and  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  and  narrow  rocky 
isthmus,  washed  on  both  sides  by  the  river,  which  here  forms  a 
bend  upwards  of  3  M.  in  length.  The  lower  part  of  the  village  is 
connected  with  the  upper  by  a  long  flight  of  stone  steps,  while  the 
carriage-road  describes  a  long  circuit.  Fine  views  from  the  top, 
particularly  from  the  Beaumont.  This  is  the  most  picturesque  spot 
in  the  lower  valley  of  the  Ourthe,  and  is  a  favourite  point  for  ex- 
cursions from  Liege. 

Near  (12  M.)  Poulseur  (steam-tramway  to  Sprimont)  the  train 
crosses  the  river,  the  banks  of  which  are  disfigured  with  extensive 
limestone  and  slate  quarries.  Above  the  village  rise  the  ivy-clad 
ruins  of  Poulseur,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  are  the  scanty  relics  of 
the  castle  of  Montfort,  to  which  numerous  legends  attach,  once  a 
seat  of  the  'Quatre  Fils  Aymon'  (p.  215),  and  now  almost  under- 
mined by  the  quarries.     The  valley  contracts.     The  train  crosses 


AYWAILLE.  27.  Route.    215 

the  Ourthe  and  reaches  the  small  station  of  (14  M.)  Rivage,  where 
the  new  Ambleve  Railway  diverges  to  the  left.  —  Continuation  of 
the  journey  to  Comhlain  au-Point,  see  p.  216. 

The  Chemin  de  Fee,  db  l'Amelevb  trayerses  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  valleys  of  the  Belgian  hill-country,  and  connects  the 
Ourthe  railway  with  the  line  from  Spa  to  Luxembourg. 

The  line  at  lirst  ascends  the  right  hank  of  the  river,  which  is 
here  navigable,  passing  (l-ii/o  M.)  Liotte  and  skirting  the  furrowed 
limestone  cliffs  of  the  Belle  Roche.  To  the  right  we  obtain  a  glimpse 
of  the  fine  rocks  of  Halleux.  Immediately  beyond  {il^j-i  M.)  Martin- 
Rive  the  train  crosses  to  the  left  bank.  On  the  left  tower  lofty  rocks 
crowned  with  the  insignificant  ruins  of  the  chateau  of  Ambleve., 
which  are  chiefly  interesting  from  their  association  with  the  med- 
iaeval legend  of  the  Quatre  Fils  Aymon,  who  are  said  to  have  resided 
here,  and  with  the  'Wild  Boar  of  the  Ardennes',  who  once  occupied 
the  castle,  and  was  beheaded  at  Maastricht  in  1485.  The  keys  of 
the  castle  are  kept  at  the  village.  The  exploits  of  this  adventurer 
are  admirably  described  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  in  his  'Quentiu  Dur- 
ward'.     His  true  history  is  as  follows  :  — 

William  de  la  Mabk,  the  scion  of  a  noble  family  of  Westphalia, 
born  about  1446,  was  educated  by  Louis  de  Bourbon,  Bishop  of  Liege. 
The  bravery,  or  rather  ferocity,  of  his  character,  procured  for  him  at  an 
early  age  the  sobriquet  of  the  'Wild  Boar  of  the  Ardennes'.  Having  been 
censured  by  the  bishop's  chancellor  on  one  occasion ,  he  slew  that  of- 
ficer, almost  before  the  eyes  of  his  patron,  and  was  banished  in  conse- 
quence. William  now  sought  an  asylum  at  the  court  of  Louis  XI.  of 
France,  where  he  planned  a  revolt  in  the  Bishop's  dominions,  and  re- 
ceived money  and  troops  for  the  enterprise.  On  his  arrival  in  the  Province 
of  Liege,  he  entrapped  the  unfortunate  Bishop  into  an  ambuscade,  and 
slew  him  with  his  own  battle-axe.  The  Liegeois,  ever  prone  to  rebellion, 
now  created  William  their  commander-in-chief.  He  next  invaded  Brabant, 
but  having  been  defeated  by  Archduke  Maximilian,  he  returned  to  Liege, 
and  allied  himself  with  Rene  of  Lorraine  against  Austria.  Maximilian 
now  had  recourse  to  treachery.  He  bribed  Frederick  of  Horn,  William's 
friend,  to  betray  him.  The  'Wild  Boar'  thus  fell  into  the  power  of  the 
Austrians,  and  was  conducted  to  Maastricht,  where  he  terminated  his  blood- 
stained career  on  the  scaffold  at  the  age  of  39  years.  He  died  bravely, 
as  he  had  lived,  meeting  his  merited  fate  with  composure. 

19VoM.  Aywaille  [Hotel  duLuxemh out g ;  Hotel  de  Liege ;  Hotel 
d' Allemagne,  new,  good  cuisine  ),  a  small  town  with  3500  inhab., 
connected  with  the  opposite  bank  by  a  graceful  suspension  bridge. 
A  picturesque  walk  may  be  taken  from  Aywaille  via  the  village  of 
Harze  (with  a  16th  cent,  castle  of  the  De  la  Marks)  to  My  and  Bo- 
mal  (p.  217).  — Farther  on  we  cross  the  river  by  a  viaduct  45  ft.  high 
and  175  yds.  long,  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  village  of  Re- 
mouchamps  on  the  left  and  the  chateau  of  Mont  Jardin  (p.  232)  on 
the  right.  —  21  M.  Remouchamps,  see  p.  231. 

Above  Remouchamp  the  river  makes  a  wide  bend ,  which  the 
railway  avoids  by  a  tunnel  678  yds.  in  length.  The  train  then 
crosses  to  the  left  bank,  passes  (22^2  ^0  Nonceveux,  recrosses  the 
river ,   and  reaches  the  Fond  de  Quareux  (Restaur.),   a  wild  rocky 


2{Q   Route  27.  COMBLAIN-AU-PONT.  From  Liege 

caldron,  in  whicli  the  channel  of  the  Ambleve  is  blocked  by  innu- 
merable boulders.  From  (25  M.)  Quareux  a  pleasant  walk  may  be 
taken  along  the  railway  and  the  high-road  to  a  point  beyond  the 
prettily  situated  village  of  Sedoz,  and  thence  across  the  hills  (fine 
views)  to  Remouchamps  (in  about  2^2  hrs.). 

The  train  now  keeps  to  the  right  bank,  commanding  a  series  of 
fine  views  of  the  wild  valley  of  the  Ambleve  and  the  ravines  di- 
verging from  it.  After  passing  Targnon,  on  an  almost  Isolated  hill, 
it  reaches  (271/2  ^jf-)  Stoumont  (Hotel  des  Chasseurs).  From  Stou- 
mont  to  Spa  by  Desniez,  Winamplanche,  and  Marteau,  about  5  hrs. 

Several  tunnels  and  bridges  are  next  passed.  31  M.  La  Gleize; 
hence  to  Spa.  see  p.  231.  —  33  M.  Roanne-Coo  ,•  cascade  of  Coo  and 
hence  to  Spa,  see  p.  231.  —  351/2  M.  Trois-Ponts  (Auberge  des  Ar- 
dennes, poor),  junction  of  the  line  to  Pepinster  (p.  232),  a  small 
village  named  after  its  three  old  bridges  (over  the  Ambleve,  over 
the  Salm,  and  over  another  brook),  and  situated  behind  precipitous 
rocks  through  which  the  railway  passes.  From  Trois  Fonts  a  new 
road  descends  the  valley  of  the  Ambleve  to  (2  M.)  the  Waterfall  of 
Coo  (p.  231). 

The  line  now  enters  the  picturesque  ravine  of  the  Salm  or  Glain, 
passes  through  a  tunnel,  and  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  stream. 
39  m.  Grand- Halleux ;  43  M.  Viel-Salm,  at  some  distance  from  the 
village  (*H6tel  Bellevue;  Hot.  Bourgeois)  of  that  name;  large 
slate-quarries  in  the  environs.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the 
ruined  castle  of  Salm,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  princely  family  of 
that  name.  The  line  now  quits  the  valley  of  the  Salm ,  passes 
(471/2  M.)  Bovigny-Courtil,  and  beyond  (50'/2  M.)  Gouvy  (Ger. 
Geylich;  Belgian  custom-house)  crosses  the  infant  Ourthe  (which 
rises  close  to  this  point)  and  the  watershed  between  the  Meuse  and 
Moselle,  which  is  at  the  same  time  the  Luxembourg  frontier. 
Branch-line  to  Bastogne,  see  p.  194.  A  diligence  runs  from  Gouvy 
to  (IOV2  M.)  Houffalize  (p.  194). 

The  train  descends  through  the  rocky  valley  of  the  Wolz^  cutting 
off  the  windings  of  the  stream  by  two  short  tunnels.  39^/2  M.  Trois- 
Vierges,  Ger.  Ulflingen,  vulgo  Elven  (Hotel  Wieser,  at  the  railway- 
station),  the  frontier -station  of  Luxembourg.  The  French  name 
is  derived  from  the  legendary  conversion  of  the  three  Fates  into  the 
Christian  virtues  of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  personified  as  the 
daughters  of  St.  Sophia.  The  parish-church  formerly  belonged  to  a 
Franciscan  convent.  A  branch-line  runs  from  Trois-Vierges  via 
Wilwerdingen,  Lengeler^  and  Burgreuland  (with  ruined  castle),  to 
St.  Vith,  connecting  with  the  Malmedy  and  Aix-la-Chapelle  and 
Gerolstein  line. 

The  Ourthe  railway  beyond  Rivage  (p.  215)  crosses  the  Ambleve 
and  reaches  (15  M.)  Comblain-au-Pont (i/d<eZ  del' Ambleve,  etc.,  at 
the  station),    a    village  (^Hotel-Pension  Renaville-  Nindne ;    Hotel 


to  Marloie.  BOMAL.  57.  Boute.    217 

Berck-Gadisseur;  Hotel  des  Families^  R.  IY2,  pens.  4-5  fr.)  prettily 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  3, 4M.  from  the  station,  which 
lies  at  the  foot  of  a  precipitous  cliff.  On  a  rocky  eminence  rises  the 
ivy-clad  tower  of  an  ancient  church.  The  scenery  between  Poulseur 
and  [3  M.)  Comblain-au-Pont  will  reward  even  the  pedestrian. 

The  train  now  passes  through  a  tunnel  to  (177-2  ^I-)  Comblain- 
la-Tour  (Hotel  de  I'Ourthe),  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Comblain 
brook,  with  rocky  environs  disfigured  by  slate-quarries.  The  valley 
soon  expands  and  becomes  more  attractive.  At  (20^/2  M.)  Hamoir 
(Hotel  de  la  Station),  a  considerable  village  situated  chiefly  on  the 
right  bank,  the  river  is  crossed  by  two  bridges,  the  older  of  which 
has  been  partly  destroyed  at  the  end  next  to  the  right  bank.  On  the 
right  bank,  farther  up,  lies  the  chateau  of  Hamoir-Lassus,  with  a 
large  park.  One  of  the  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  valley  is  be- 
tween Hamoir  and  Bomal  (see  below),  the  scenery  being  pleasantly 
varied  by  meadows,  richly-wooded  slopes,  and  frovniing  cliffs. 

'Walk.  Beyond  the  chateau  of  Hamoir-Lassus ,  at  the  first  houses 
of  the  village  of  that  name,  enquire  for  the  path  across  the  hill  to  Si/, 
a  small  group  of  houses  in  a  narrow  gorge,  and  at  the  railway-bridge 
cross  by  boat  to  the  left  bank.  A  path  through  the  meadows  here  passes 
the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  and  through  an  arch  of  the  bridge,  suddenly 
affording  a  view  of  a  narrow  and  sombre  rocky  valley.  At  Palogne  cross 
to  the  right  bank  again,  and  ascend  with  a  boy  as  guide  to  the  picturesquely 
situated  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Logne,  which  like  the  Chateau  d'Ambleve 
was  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  redoubtable  Count  de  la  Mark  (p.  215). 
Within  the  precincts  of  the  castle  is  the  Cave  Notre-Dame,  a  stalactite 
grotto.  Near  the  castle  runs  the  Aywaille  (p.  215)  and  Bomal  road,  by 
which  the  latter  village  may  now  be  reached. 

Beyond  Hamoir  the  train  crosses  the  river  several  times,  and 
penetrates  a  lofty  cliff  by  means  of  a  tunnel.  The  large  village  of 
(25  M.)  Bomal  (Hotel  du  Pont),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Aisne,  com- 
manded by  the  chateau  with  its  terraced  gardens,  is  a  handsome- 
looking  place. 

Excursion'  recommended  to  the  picturesque  rocky  valley  of  the  Aisne, 
ascending  by  Juzaine  and  Aisne  to  (4  M.)  Roche-d-Frene  (Courtoy-Liboutte), 
with  curious  geological  strata,  and  returning  by  Heid ,  Wiris  (ancient 
Romanesque  church;  Celtic  dolmen),  and  Barvaux. 

The  train  again  crosses  the  Ourthe,  stops  at  the  substantially 
built  village  of  (27  M.]  Barvaux  (Hotel  de  Liege),  and  then  quits  the 
river  in  order  to  avoid  the  long  bend  which  it  makes  towards  the  "W. 

On  the  Ourthe,  2  M.  above  Barvaux,  lies  the  ancient  and  pictur- 
esquely situated,  but  now  insignificant  town  of  Durbuy  {jHdtel  de  Liige, 
pens.  41/2  fr.;  Hotel  True),  with  450  inhab.  only.  The  principal  features 
of  the  place  are  a  mediaeval  bridge,  an  old  chapel,  the  ruined  tower  of 
an  ancient  fortification,  and  the  modern  chateau  of  ,the  Due  d'Ursel. 
Pleasant  walk  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river  from  Barvaux  to  Durbuy 
(2  hrs.),  and  back  by  the  road  (2  M.). 

Beyond  (32  M.)  Melreux  (Hotel  des  Etrangers;  Poste)  the  line 
crosses  the  Ourthe  for  the  last  time  and  then  leaves  its  neighbour- 
hood. 

From  Melreux  to  Laroche,  12V-2  M.,  railwav  in  li/i  hr.  (fares  1  fr.  60, 
1  fr.  20  c.).  13/4  M.  Hotlon  (Hotel  de  rOurthe);"  41/2  M.  Rendeux-Hamoul. 
On  an  almost  isolated  rock  opposite  stands  the  pilgrimage  -  chapel  of 
St.  Thibaut,  beside  which  a  hermit  still  dwells.  —  I2V2  M.  La  Roche  ('Hotel 


218     Route  28.  ARGENTEAU.  From  Liege 

des  Ardennes;  Hdtel  du  Nord),  a  small  town,  situated  at  the  junction  of 
several  valleys,  and  commanded  by  the  frowning  ruins  of  a  castle.  The 
grinding  and  varied  valley  of  the  Ourthe  in  the  vicinity  of  La  Roche 
presents  several  points  of  attraction,  e.g.  the  rocks  of  Le  Eirou  and  the 
junction  of  the  two  Ourthes. 

38V2  ^^-  Marche  (Cloche  dCOr;  Hotel  de  la  Gare)  ,  the  chief 
town  (2900  iuhab.)  of  the  Famene,  a  productive  agricultural  district. 
Marche  was  formerly  a  fortress.  Lafayette  was  taken  prisoner  by 
the  Austrians  here  in  1792.  The  village  of  Waha,  1^2  M.  to  the 
S.,  contains  a  small  and  simple  Romanesque  church,  which  was 
consecrated  in  1051. 

401/2  ^1-  Marlole,  where  the  line  unites  with  the  Brussels  and 
Luxembourg  railway  [p.  191). 

28.  From  Li^ge  to  Maastricht. 

19  M.  Railway  from  Liege  to  Maastricht  in  l-l'A  hr. ;  trains  start 
from  the  Station  de  Longdoz  (fares  2  fr.  40,  1  fr.  80,  1  fr.  20  c). 

Travellers  to  Maastricht  who  intend  to  return  to  Liege  should  leave 
the  bulk  of  their  luggage  at  Liege,  in  order  to  avoid  the  formalities  of 
the  Dutch  douane  in  going,  and  those  of  the  Belgian  in  returning.  Luggage 
registered  to  Maastricht  is  not  examined  till  arrival  in  that  town. 

The  train  describes  a  wide  curve  to  the  left,  and  passes  under 
the  Chartreuse,  runs  near  the  Meuse  for  a  short  distance,  and  reaches 
(3  M.)  Jupille,  a  small  manufacturing  town  of  very  ancient  origin, 
with  3600  inhabitants.  It  was  once  a  favourite  residence  of  Pepin 
of  Heristal,  who  died  here  in  714,  and  was  also  often  visited  by 
Charlemagne.  The  train  now  quits  the  river,  which  makes  a  bend 
towards  the  W.  —  5  M.  Wandre ;  6  M.  Cheratte. 

8  M.  Argenieau  (Hotel  du  Tourne-Bride),  the  station  for  Her- 
malle,  a  straw-plaiting  place  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river. 
Argenteau  is  the  most  picturesque  place  in  the  lower  valley  of  the 
Meuse.  Above  the  village  rises  an  abrupt  rock,  clothed  with  oak- 
plantations  on  the  summit,  and  crowned  with  the  new  chateau  of 
Count  Mercy  d' Argenteau.  The  court  is  connected  by  means  of  a 
lofty  bridge  with  another  rock,  where  the  pleasure-grounds  are 
situated.  The  park  extends  for  a  considerable  distance  to  the  N. 
The  curious  formation  of  the  sandstone  rock  somewhat  resembles 
that  of  the  'Saxon  Switzerland'. 

Picturesquely  situated  on  the  Berwitine .,  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  Argenteau, 
arc  the  ruins  of  the  once  famous  fortress  of  Dalhern. 

10  M.  Vise,  Dutch  Wezet  (Hotel  de  Brabant),  the  seat  of  the 
Belgian  custom-house,  with  2800  inhab.,  once  a  fortified  town,  was 
the  headquarters  of  Louis  XIV.  when  he  besieged  Maastricht  in 
1673.  The  church  contains  the  famous  silver  Chdsse  de  St.  Hadelin, 
with  figures  in  relief.  The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  quaint.  The  Loretto 
Chapel,  on  the  hill,  is  a  pilgrim-resort.  The  train  crosses  the  frontier 
and  enters  the  Dutch  province  of  Limburg. 

121/2  M.  Eysden,  with  the  Dutch  custom-house  and  an  old 
chateau,  is  situated  amid  fruit-trees  and  luxuriant  pastures.  — 
15  M.  Gronsveld.    On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Meuse  are  seen  the 


Roemaand.jj  Jdx-b.Qx 


MAASTRICHT 


Voonualige  ponrrl 

IBoscfipoar'f 
.  2^riisseistJie  poort 
\  3.  Tongershe  poor-t 
,4  S'Pietas  poort 


ftfoiraph.  Anstall  vun  1  :    2  8600 


->      ^- 


Wagner  i  T)eT)r s  Leips 


to  Maastricht.  MAASTRICHT.  28.  Route.     219 

sandstone  rocks  of  the  Petersberg,  rising  330  ft.  above  the  river, 
and  crowned  by  the  graceful  Chateau  of  Castert. 

19  M.  Maastricht.  —  Hotels.  -Hotel  du  L6vriee,  or  Hazenwind 
('greyhound'),  in  the  Boschstraat,  near  the  market,  R.  from  lV-2  A.,  L.  25, 
A.  30,  B.  60  c.,  D.  1  fl.  40,  or  incl.  wine  2  tl,  15  c.;  Zwarte  Arexd,  or 
AiGLE  NoiE,  a  good  second-class  inn,  opposite  the  Levrier,  R.  Ifl.;  Zegueks, 
Deklox,  Daesen,  three  unpretending  inns  with  restaurants,  near  the 
Peter's  Gate  and  the  church  of  Xotre  Dame.  The  hotels  are  all  at  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  the  railway-station. 

Guide  to  the  caverns,  including  torches,  2V2-3  fl.  (5-6  fr.) ;  bargaining 
advisable. 

Omnibus  from  the  station  to  the  market-place  10  c.  —  Carriage  from 
the  station  into  the  town  50  c.  j  from  Maastricht  to  the  entrance  to  the 
galleries  3  fl. 

Maastricht,  the  capital  of  the  Dutch  part  of  the  province  of 
Limburg,  with  32,000  inhab.,  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Meuse, 
and  is  connected  with  the  suburb  of  Wyk  on  the  right  bank  by 
means  of  a  bridge  of  nine  arches,  built  in  1683.  Maastricht  ('.Vaas- 
Trecht,  Trajectum  ad  Mosam)  is  the  Trajectum  Superius  of  the  Ro- 
mans (the  'lower  ford'  was  at  Utrecht,  p.  362),  and  from  382  to  721 
was  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  transferred  hither  from  Tongres  by  St. 
Servatius  (d.  384).  It  belonged  to  the  Frankish  kings,  several  of 
whom  resided  here,  and  was  at  a  later  date  in  the  joint  possession 
of  the  Dukes  of  Brabant  and  the  Prince  Bishops  of  Liege.  In  1679 
Maastricht,  which  had  thrown  in  its  lot  with  the  Netherlandish 
patriots,  was  besieged  for  four  months  by  the  Spaniards,  under  the 
Duke  of  Parma.  The  garrison  consisted  of  1200  soldiers  (French, 
English,  and  Scottish),  7000  of  the  townspeople,  and  1000  peas- 
ants from  the  environs.  Notwithstanding  the  numerical  superiority 
of  the  Spaniards,  they  were  twice  repulsed  by  the  sallies  of  the  in- 
trepid defenders.  At  length,  greatly  reduced  in  numbers,  and  ex- 
hausted by  famine,  the  garrison  was  compelled  to  succumb.  The 
victors  wreaked  their  vengeance  on  the  ill-fated  burghers  with 
savage  cruelty  during  three  days.  About  8000  inhabitants,  of  whom 
1700  were  women,  were  put  to  death.  The  fortress  has  sustained 
numerous  other  sieges,  of  which  the  four  most  memorable  termin- 
ated with  its  capitulation,  viz.  that  of  1632  by  Prince  Fred.  Henry 
of  Orange,  that  of  1673  by  Louis  XIV.,  that  of  1748  by  the  French 
under  Marshal  Saxe,  and  that  of  1794  by  General  Kleber.  Maastricht 
was  almost  the  only  town  in  the  S.  part  of  the  Netherlands  which 
was  successfully  maintained  by  the  Dutch  against  the  Belgian  in- 
surgents after  the  eventful  month  of  September,  1830.  — Maastricht 
was  formerly  a  strong  fortress,  but  the  works  are  being  demolished. 

The  Stadhuis.  or  Hotel  de  Ville,  with  its  clock-tower ,  situated 
in  the  great  market-place,  was  erected  in  1659-64,  and  contains 
several  pictures  of  the  Dutch  School  and  well-executed  tapestry 
(1704),  representing  the  history  of  the  Israelites  in  the  wilderness. 

The  Church  of  St.  Servatius,  or  Hoof  dkerk,  in  the  Yrythof,  found- 
ed by  Bishop  Monulphus  (560-599),  is  the  oldest  church  in  the 
Netherlands.    The  rich  W.  portion,  in  the  Romanesque  style,  be- 


220      Route  28.  .PETERSBERG.  From  Lilge 

longs  to  the  Uth  or  12th  cent.,  and  the  crypt,  rediscovered  in 
1881,  is  perhaps  still  more  ancient.  The  interior  was  restored  in 
the  Gothic  style  about  the  year  1500.  One  of  the  altarpieces  is  a 
Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Van  Dyck. 

The  CuuKCH  Tkeasdky  ( Schatkamer).,  which  since  1873  has  occupied 
a  chapel  of  its  own,  and  is  shown  to  visitors  for  a  fee  of  1/2  fl»  is 
worthy  of  inspection.  The  most  interesting  object  which  it  contains  is 
the  late-Romanesque  reliquary  of  St.  Servatius  (i2th  cent.),  in  the  form  of 
a  church,  5  ft.  9  in.  in  length,  19  in.  in  breadth,  and  27  in.  high.  It  is 
executed  in  gilded  and  enamelled  copper,  and  embellished  with  filigree 
work  and  precious  stones. 

T\e  Church  of  Notre  Dame,  or  Lieve  Vrouwekerke,  a  late-Roman- 
esque edifice  of  the  11th  cent.,  has  been  disfigured  by  subsequent 
additions. 

The  Provincial  Archives  and  the  Town  Library  (open  9-1)  are 
preserved  in  the  old  Franciscan  Church,  Rue  St.  Pierre. 

The  principal  attraction  at  Maastricht  is  the  subterranean  laby- 
rinth of  sandstone-quarries  which  honeycomb  the  *Petersberg  in 
every  direction ,  having  been  worked  for  upwards  of  a  thovisand 
years.  A  visit  to  them  occupies  I'/o-^  hrs.  We  leave  the  town  on 
the  S.  by  the  Peter's  Gate,  near  which  the  guides  (p.  219)  live.  After 
about  10  min.  we  pass  the  village  of  St.  Pieter,  with  a  conspiciious 
modern  brick  church ,  and  in  1/4  hr.  more  reach  the  suppressed 
Servite  monastery  of  Slavanten,  now  the  property  of  a  private  club 
(Casino);  admission,  however,  is  seldom  denied  to  strangers  (re- 
freshments, fine  view).   The  entrance  to  the  Petersberg  is  close  by. 

The  Petersjjeug  range,  extending  from  Maastricht  to  Liege,  is  com- 
posed of  a  yellowish,  sandy,  and  calcareous  stone,  or  chalky  tufa,  which 
has  been  deposited  by  the  water  of  the  ocean,  and  contains  numerous 
conchylia,  fragments  of  coral,  sharks'  teeth,  fossil  turtles,  bones  of 
the  picsiosaurus ,  ichthyosaurus ,  etc. ,  and  other  traces  of  its  remote 
subaqueous  origin.  Many  of  these  interesting  fossils  are  preserved  in 
the  collection  at  Liege  (p.  208) ,  and  other.>5  may  be  seen  at  the  Athe- 
nseum  at  Maastricht.  The  so-called  onjues  geologiques^  cylindrical  openings 
of  1-7  ft.  in  diameter,  and  generally  vertical,  perforating  the  formation 
to  a  vast  depth,  and  now  filled  with  clay,  sand,  and  rubble,  are  a  singular 
phenomenon  which  has  not  yet  been  satisfactorily  explained.  It  is  con- 
jectured that  they  were  originally  formed  by  submarine  whirlpools,  the 
action  of  which  is  known  to  produce  circular  orifices  in  rocks  of  much 
harder  consistency,  and  that  they  were  afterwards  enlarged  by  the  per- 
colation of  water. 

The  economical  value  of  the  stone  consists  in  the  facility  with  which 
it  is  sawn  into  symmetrical  blocks,  and  in  its  property  of  hardening  on 
exposure  to  the  "atmosphere.  The  galleries,  which  vary  from  20  to  50  ft. 
in  height,  are  supported  by  pillars  averaging  15  ft.  in  diameter,  left  for 
the  purpose.  The  first  excavations  are  believed  to  have  been  made  by 
Roman  soldiers,  and  the  same  systematic  mode  of  working  has  been  ob- 
served ever  since  that  period.  Guicciardini's  (p.  xiii)  description  of  the 
quarries  three  centuries  ago  is  still  !  applicable :  'Viscera  montis  scatent 
lapide  quodam  molli,  arenoso,  et  parvo  negotio  sectili,  cujus  ingens  assidue 
hie  efloditur  copia,  idque  tam  accurata  conservandi  et  montis  et  fodientium 
cura,  tamque  altis,  longis,  flexuosis ,  et  periculosis  quoque  meatibus." 

The  galleries  constitute  a  vast  labyrinth,  of  about  12  M.  in  length, 
and  7  M.  in  breadth,  and  are  all  so  exactly  similar  in  appearance,  that 
their  intricacies   are  known  to  a  few  experienced  guides   only.     Most  of 


to  Maastriclit.  PETEESBERG.  28.  Route.     221 

the  entrances  are  closed,  as  adventurous  travellers  have  not  unfrequently 
perished  in  the  foolhardy  attempt  to  explore  the  quaries  alone.  The 
dead  bodies  which  have  occasionally  been  found  in  the  more  remote  re- 
cesses, have  been  preserved  from  decomposition  by  the  remarkable  dry- 
ness of  the  air,  and  the  lowness  of  temperature.  Thousands  of  names 
are  rudely  scratched  on  the  pillars,  and  a  genuine  inscription  of  the  year 
1037  is  even  said  to  have  been  discovered.  During  the  bloody  wars  of 
the  17th  cent,  the  caverns  were  used  as  a  place  of  refuge  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  surrounding  districts. 

One  of  the  phenomena  pointed  out  by  the  guides  is  the  gradual  for- 
mation of  a  small  natural  reservoir  in  the  roots  of  a  fossil  tree,  by  the 
dropping  of  water  from  the  branches,  which  still  remain  embedded  in 
the  ceiling,  the  intermediate  part  having  been  removed  in  the  course  of 
the  excavations.  A  curious  eflect  is  prodiiced  by  the  guide  leaving  the 
party  temporarily  and  carrying  his  torch  into  the  side-galleries,  from  which 
its  light  shines  into  the  central  one  from  time  to  time.  The  soft,  friable 
nature  of  the  stone  deadens  every  sound,  so  that  his  footsteps  soon  seem 
as  if  far  in  the  distance.  The  invariable  temperature  in  the  quarries  is 
about  550  Fahr.,  and  the  change  from  the  heat  of  a  blazing  sun  to  the 
coolness  of  the  caverns  is  very  perceptible. 

Railway  to  Aix-la-C/tapelle,  Hasselt,  and  Antwerp,  see  R.  17;  to  Venlo^ 
Ifymegen,  and  Rotterdam,  see  RR.  53,  54. 

29.  From  Li^ge  to  Namur. 

371/2  M.  Railway  in  IV4-2  hrs.  (fares  4  fr.  80,  3  fr.  60,  2  fr.  40  c; 
express  5  fr.  70,  4  fr.  30,  2  fr.  85  c).  This  line  is  part  of  that  from  Co- 
logne and  Liege  to  Paris. 

This  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Meuse  is  remarkably  picturesque 
and  attractive.  Bold  cliffs,  ruined  castles,  rich  pastures,  and 
thriving  villages  are  passed  in  uninterrupted  succession,  while 
numerous  coal-mines  and  manufactories  with  their  lofty  chimneys 
bear  testimony  to  the  enterprising  character  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
whole  district  is  densely-peopled,  the  land  well-cultivated,  and  the 
scenery  pleasantly  diversified  with  hop-gardens,  corn-fields,  mead- 
ows, and  (before  Javaz)  with  vineyards,  but  many  of  the  prettiest 
points  escape  the  railway  -  traveller.  The  quarries  on  both  banks 
yield  excellent  marble. 

Ougree,  Seraing  (p.  212),  and  Val  St.  Lambert  are  stations  on  the 
right,  Tilleur  3ii\d  Jemeppe  stations  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  all 
picturesquely  situated,  with  numerous  manufactories  and  coal-mines. 
Val  St.  Lambert  was  until  the  Revolution  the  seat  of  one  of  the 
wealthiest  Cistercian  monasteries  in  the  country,  now  succeeded  by 
one  of  the  most  important  glass-works  in  Belgium. 

7  M.  Flemalle ,  a  considerable  village,  where  a  branch-line, 
constructed  mainly  for  goods-traffic,  crosses  the  river. 

Farther  on ,  to  the  right ,  on  a  precipitous  rock  rising  almost 
immediately  from  the  river,  stands  the  chateau  of  Chokier,  with  its 
red  tower  and  massive  walls ,  dating  partly  from  the  last  century. 
It  is  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Surlet  de  Chokier  family,  a  member  of 
which  was  regent  of  Belgium  for  five  months  previous  to  the  election 
of  King  Leopold.  Then  ,  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  on  the 
left,  the  castle  of  Aigremont ,  with  its  white  walls ,  rising  conspic- 


222   Route  29.  HUY.  From  Liege 

uously  on  the  crest  of  a  lofty  hill,  belonging  to  Count  d'Outremont. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  originally  erected  by  the  Quatre  Fils  Ay- 
mon ,  four  traditionary  heroes  of  the  middle  ages.  In  the  15th 
cent,  it  formed  the  central  point  of  the  warlike  exploits  of  William 
de  la  Mark,  the  'Wild  Boar  of  the  Ardennes'  (p.  215).  To  the  left, 
opposite  Stat.  Engis,  stands  the  chateau  of  Engihoul,  at  the  base  of 
a  limestone  rock.  In  1829  numerous  fossil  bones  were  discovered 
by  Dr.  Schmerling  in  the  limestone  rocks  around  Engis,  which 
led  hi,m  to  the  conclusion  that  a  prehistoric  race  of  human  beings 
had  once  peopled  this  district.  12  M.  Hermalle,  with  a  handsome 
chateau  and  park,  is  another  picturesque  spot,  between  which  and 
Neuville  the  scenery  is  less  attractive,  and  the  banks  are  flatter. 
Farther  on,  at  Flone,  are  the  large  buildings  of  a  former  nun- 
nery (16th  cent.);  and  on  the  hill  above  them,  to  the  left  (IY4M.), 
is  the  chateau  of  Jehay,  restored  in  the  original  style.  The  chateau, 
which  contains  a  collection  of  paintings,  is  in  the  possession  of 
Baron  Van  den  Steen. 

14  M.  Amay,  a  village  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  possesses 
a  Romanesque  church  with  three  towers.  Neuville,  a  modern 
chateau,  beyond  which  the  scenery  again  becomes  more  picturesque, 
lies  nearly  opposite  [151/2  M.)  Amps  in,  where  a  ruined  tower  stands 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  vineyards,  and 
the  large  Corphalie  zinc-foundry.  The  train  continues  to  skirt  the 
hills  on  the  left  bank,  of  which  no  view  is  obtained. 

18  M.  Huy,  Flem.  Hoey  (*Aigle  Noir,  'pension'  6  fr, ;  Hotel  du 
Globe;  Hotel  Bruxellois;  Mouton  Bleu;  Phare,  plain),  a  town  with 
12,100  iuhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Meuse  (station  on  the  left  bank),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hoyoux.  The 
Citadel,  constructed  in  1822,  rises  from  the  river  in  terraces.  The 
works  were  partly  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The  hills  on  the  left 
bank  are  here  1/2  M-  distant  from  the  river.  The  ^Collegiate  Church 
(Notre  Dame),  a  fine  structure  in  the  most  perfect  Gothic  style,  was 
begun  in  1311,  but  renewed  after  a  fire  in  the  16th  century,  and 
recently  restored.  Handsome  W.  portal  with  good  sculptures.  On 
the  high-altar  is  a  Gothic  reliquary ;  and  the  treasury  contains  some 
notable  articles.  In  1868  a  statue  by  W.  Geefs  was  erected  on  the 
promenade  skirting  the  Meuse,  to  Jos.  Lebeau,  a  Belgian  statesman, 
born  at  Huy  in  1794,  one  of  the  most  zealous  promoters  of  the  elec- 
tion of  King  Leopold.  The  best  views  of  the  banks  of  the  river, 
which  are  especially  beautiful  above  the  town,  are  obtained  from 
the  bridge  over  the  Meuse  and  from  beside  the  chapel  of  St.  Leonard, 
to  the  west  of  the  town.  Wine-growing  flourishes  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

The  abbey  of  Neumoustier ,  founded  by  Peter  the  Hermit 
(d.  1115),  formerly  stood  in  one  of  the  suburbs  of  Huy,  and  the 
great  preacher  of  the  Crusades  was  himself  buried  there.  A  statue 
has  been  erected  to  him  in  the  garden  of  the  old  abbey.    This  was 


to  Namur.  ANDENNE.  29.  Route.    223 

one  of  no  fewer  than  seventeen  religious  houses  which  Huy 
possessed  under  the  regime  of  the  "bishops  of  Liege ,  although  the 
population  of  the  town  was  then  about  5000  only. 

From  Hut  to  Landen,  Q2\'2  M.,  in  1' 2-2  hrs.  (fares  2  fr.  75,  2  fr.  5, 
1  fr.  40  c).  The  train  may  be  taken  either  at  the  station  of  Stalte  (see 
below),  a  suburb  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Meuse,  or  at  Huy-Sud.  The  two 
stations,  which  are  I'A  M.  apart,  are  connected  by  a  bridge  across  the 
aieuse  and  by  a  tunnel.  —  At  (5  M.)  Mofta,  with  a  ruined  castle,  the  line 
begins  to  ascend  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Mehaigne.,  a  tributary  of 
the  Meuse.  Stations:  Huccorgne ;  Fumal,  with  an  old  castle ;  Fallais,  with 
a  Romanesque  church,  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle  destroyed  by  Louis  XIV.  ; 
Braives-Latinne.  The  country  now  becomes  flat.  The  last  stations  are 
Avenues.,  Hannut^  Avevnas-Bertvie.     Then  Landen,  see  p.  196. 

From  Hut  to  Waremme  (p.  197),  H'/z  M.,  steam-tramway,  in  I'/a  hr. ; 
fares  1  fr.  85,  1  fr.  30  c. 

From  Hut  to  Cixet,  22  M.,  railway  in  li/i-lVzlir.  (fares  2  fr.  65,  2  fr., 
1  fr.  35  c).  The  trains  start  from  Statte  and  Huy-Sud  (see  above).  —  The 
pleasing  valley  of  the  Hot/oux,  which  the  line  ascends,  is  also  interesting 
for  pedestrians.  Of  the  numerous  paper-mills  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
valley,  the  chief  is  that  of  Godin.  —  41/2  M.  Barse.  —  7  31.  Modave^  whence 
a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  (V2  hr.)  chateau  of  ^Modave  picturesquely 
situated  on  a  lofty  rock,  built  in  the  17th  cent.,  and  now  the  property  of 
31.  Braconier  of  Liege.  Tickets  to  visit  the  chateau,  which  is  not  seen 
except  from  the  park,  may  be  obtained  from  the  gardener.  A  pretty 
waterfall  is  to  be  seen  at  the  adjacent  hamlet  of  Pont-de-bonne  ('Body's 
Inn;  Frippiat's  Inn),  a  summer-resort  with  attractive  walks. —  Then,  Cla- 
vier-Tetteagne,  Avins-en-Condroz.,  Havelange,  Hamois,  Emptinne.  —  Cinei/, 
see  p.  191. 

191/2  ^^-  Statte,  a  suburb  of  Huy  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Meuse, 
and  junction  of  the  line  from  Landen  to  Ciney,  which  here  crosses 
the  river  (see  above,  and  comp.  Map). 

201/2  M-  Bas-Oha,  with  an  old  castle  now  restored,  and  vine- 
yards on  the  neighbouring  hills.  On  the  height  opposite  are  the 
scanty  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Beaufort.,  destroyed  in  1554,  which  is 
once  more  in  the  possession  of  the  duke  of  Beaufort-Spontin. 

In  the  valley  of  Soli^res,  about  IV4  31.  from  the  ruin  is  the  Trou 
Manleau.,  which  has  been  very  imperfectly  explored,  entered  by  a  double 
opening  (apply  to  the  discoverer  Victor  3Iartin ,  watchmaker  in  Iluy).  — 
Below  Beaufort  is  Ben-Ahin.,  with  a  recently  restored  chateau  belonging 
to  Prince  Looz-Corswarem.  An  attractive  walk  leads  hence  by  the  high- 
road to  (3-3V2  3I.)  Huy  (p.  222);  another  from  the  ruined  castle  of  Beau- 
fort to  Huy,  through  the  valley  of  SolUres. 

22'/2  M.  Ja^'oz,  opposite  which  is  Gives  (seep.  224).  25  M. 
Andenne-Seilles.  On  the  left  bank,  where  the  railway-station  is 
situated,  lies  the  straggling  village  of  Seilles,  the  last  in  the  district 
of  Liege.  There  are  several  lime-kilns  here,  and  a  chateau  restored 
in  the  style  of  the  15th  century.  Opposite  Seilles,  and  connected 
with  it  by  means  of  an  iron  bridge,  lies  Andenne  [Hotel  cle  Thier, 
near  the  station;  Poste,  in  the  town),  with  7100  inhab.,  a  busy 
town,  with  paper,  faience,  and  other  manufactories.  Down  to  1785 
a  religious  establishment  of  32  sisters  of  noble  family,  not  bound  by 
any  vow  to  abstain  from  matrimony,  had  existed  here  for  upwards 
of  a  thousand  years.  It  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  St.  Begga, 
a  daughter  of  Pepin  of  He'ristal  (p.  196),  and  the  order  was  probably 


224    Route  29.         MARCHE-LES-DAMES. 

identical  with  that  of  the  B^guines.  The  establishment  was  trans- 
ferred to  Namur  by  Emp.  Joseph  II.  The  church  contains  the  Re- 
naissance reliquary  of  St.  Begga,  and  a  famous  wonder-working 
marble  tablet  of  the  saint.  Fine  view  from  Mount- Calvary.  — 
Tunnel. 

29  M.  Sclaigneaux  is  noted  for  the  curiously  jagged  character 
of  the  red  oolithio  cliffs.  A  handsome  bridge  (opened  in  1890) 
crosses  the  Mouse  to  Sclayn  (Hotel  des  Etrangers  ;  Hot. -Cafe  de  la 
Renaissance),  a  beautifully  situated  village  frequented  as  a  summer- 
resort,  with  a  quaint  old  Romanesque  church.  At(30M.)  Nameche, 
another  pleasant  village  in  the  midst  of  fruit-trees,  the  river  is 
crossed  by  an  iron  bridge.  On  the  opposite  bank  lies  ^Samson,  a 
village  at  the  foot  of  a  picturesque  cliff  of  white  limestone.  Above 
Samson  are  situated  a  modern  chateau  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
believed  to  date  from  the  12th  cent,  or  earlier.  Near  it,  in  1858, 
was  discovered  a  Frankish  burial-place.  —  Steam- tramway  via 
Andenne  to  Gives  (p.  223). 

A  pleasant  walk  leads  from  Samson  to  the  S.  via  Goyet  (with  pre- 
historic caves ;  foot-path  via,  Haltinne  to  Andenne  see  above)  and  the 
beautifully  situated  chateau  of  Faulx.,  to  (4V2  M.)  the  scanty  ruins  of  the 
famous  Abbey  of  Grand-Pr^,  destroyed  during  the  French  Revolution.  —  In 
the  lateral  valley  above  Faulx  lies  the  well-preserved  chateau  of  Arville. 

On  the  left  rises  the  chateau  of  Moinil;  then  that  of  Brumagne, 
the  property  of  Baron  de  Woelmont. 

32  M.  Marche-les-Dames,  adjoining  which  are  the  ironworks 
of  Enouf.  The  modern  chateau  of  the  Due  d'Arenberg,  with  its 
gardens,  amidst  the  trees  on  the  rocky  slope,  is  named  after  an  abbey 
founded  (in  a  side-valley)  in  1101  by  139  noble  ladies,  the  wives 
of  crusaders  who  had  accompanied  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  to  the  Holy 
Land.  A  pleasant  walk  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  leads  hence 
to  Sclaigneaux  (see  above). 

On  the  left  rise  the  huge  cliffs  of  Live.  We  next  pass  a  number 
of  lofty  conical  cliffs ;  then,  on  the  right  (34'/2  M.),  appear  the  mas- 
sive rocks  of  the  Grands  Malades  ,  so-called  from  a  hospital  for 
lepers,  situated  here  in  the  middle  ages. 

371/2  M.  Namurj  see  p.  184. 

30.  From  Liege  to  Aix-la-Chapelle. 

35  M.  Railway  to  Verviers  (ISi/a  M.)  in  35-60  min.  (fares  1  fr. 
80,  1  fr.  35,  90  c. ;  express  one-fourth  higher);  from  Verviers  to  Aix-la 
Chapelle  (19y2  M.)  in  40-65  min.  (fares  3  fr.  30,  2  fr.  60,  1  fr.  85  c).  In 
the  reverse  direction  :  express  from  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Liege  4  marks  (JO, 
3  m.  40  pfennigs;  from  Cologne  to  Liege  13  m.  80  pf.,  10  m. ;  from  Co- 
logne to  Brussels  21  m.,  15  m.  70  pf.  (The  German  mark,  worth  Is. 
Engl.,  is  divided  into  100  pfennigs.)  Betvreen  Verviers  and  Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle (and  Cologne)  several  of  the  express  trains  have  first-class  carriages 
only,  but  in  Belgium  they  always  consist  of  the  three  classes.  —  At  Her- 
besthal,  the  Prussian  frontier-station,  small  articles  of  luggage  are  exam- 
ined; but  that  in  the  luggage -van  is  not  examined  till  the  traveller 
arrives  at  Aix-la-Chapelle  (or  at  Cologne,  if  booked  to,  or  beyond  Cologne). 

The  country   traversed  by   the  line  between  Liege   and  the  Prussian 


CHArDFONTAINE.  30.  Route.   225 

frontier  is  remarkable  for  its  picturesque  scenery,  busy  manufactories, 
and  pretty  country-houses,  while  the  engineering  skill  displayexl  in  the 
construction  of  the  line  is  another  object  of  interest.  This  part  of  the  line, 
24  M.  in  length,  cost  upwards  of  25  million  francs.  The  picturesque 
stream  which  the  line  crosses  so  frequently  is  the  Vesdre ,  and  pleasant 
glimpses  of  its  wooded  banks  are  obtained  on  both  sides  of  the  train. 
The  rock  penetrated  by  most  of  the  tunnels  is  a  bluish  limestone,  fre- 
quently veined  with  quartz,  and  often  used  for  building  purposes.  This 
is  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  journey  between  England  and  Germany, 
and  should  if  possible  be  performed  by  daylight. 

The  Beegisch-Markisch  Railwat  also  has  a  line  between  Yerviers  and 
Aix-la-Chapelle,  2OV2  M.  (I-I1/4  hr. ;  fares  2  fr.  60,  2  fr.  15,  1  fr.  50  c.;  or 
2  m.  10,  1  m.  70,  1  m.  20  pf.).  It  diverges  at  Dolhain  (p.  226j  from  the 
Rhenish  line,  and  near  (SM.)  Welkenraedt  passes  the  Eineburg,  or  Emma- 
burg,  once  a  country-residence  of  Charlemagne,  where  his  secretary  Egin- 
hard  is  said  to  have  become  enamoured  of  the  emperor's  daughter  Emma, 
whom  he  afterwards  married.  Near  (1272  M.)  MonUen-MoresneC  are  se- 
veral chateaux  and  the  ruin  of  Schimper,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  cliff 
above  the  Gobi.  About  1^'i  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  Altenberg  or  Vieille  Mont- 
agne  (Restaurant  Bergerhoff-,  Casino),  the  central  point  of  the  territory 
about  IV'2  sq.  M.  in  area  possessed  in  common  by  Prussia  and  Belgium 
from  1815  to  1889,  with  some  exhausted  zinc-mines.  —  13'/2  M.  Bleybevg 
(Belgian  custom-house),  with  lead  and  zinc-mines.  —  20'/2  M.  Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle (Templerbend  Station);  see  Baedeker's  Rhine.  Through  -  trains  of 
the  Bergisch-Markisch  Railway  from  Brussels  to  Diisseldorf  go  by  this 
line  (express  from  Calais  to  Berlin  in  20^/4  hrs.). 

The  train  starts  from  the  Station  des  Guillemins  at  Liege, 
crosses  the  handsome  Pont  du  Val-BcnoU,  passes  (l'/2  M.)  Angleur 
(junction  of  the  Ligne  de  VOurthe.  for  which  see  p.  214)  and  the 
extensive  zinc-foundry  of  the  Vieille  Montagne  Co.  (p.  214),  and 
crosses  the  Ourthe  near  its  confluence  with  the  Vesdre. 

2  M.  Chenee  (6500  inhah.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Vesdre,  is  a 
busy  manufacturing  place  with  copper-foundries  and  glass-works. 
—  Branch-line  to  Herve,  Battice,  and  Aubel  (p.  226). 

4  M.  Chaudfontaine  ('*(j'ran(/  Hotel  des  Bains,  pens.  7-lOfr. ; 
Hotel  d'AngleterreJ,  a  small  and  beautifully-situated  watering-place, 
attracts  numerous  visitors  from  Liege.  The  thermal  spring  (104°  Fahr.) 
used  for  the  baths  is  situated  on  an  island  in  the  Vesdre,  which  is 
connected  with  the  bank  by  a  handsome  suspension-bridge.  Chaud- 
fontaine,  like  the  German  watering-places ,  boasts  of  a  'Cursaal' 
situated  near  the  station,  in  the  garden  of  which  concerts  are  given 
in  summer.  From  the  back  of  the  church  a  pleasant  path,  provided 
with  seats,  leads  to  the  top  of  the  hill  (10  min.),  which  rises  above 
the  village  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Vesdre 
(best  from  the  pilgrimage-church  of  Chevremont').  —  A  pleasant 
walk  (2  hrs.)  lea^ls  past  Emhourg  and  through  the  park  of  the  Villa 
Sainval  (with  the  permission  of  the  gardener  or  lodge-keeper)  to 
Tiljf,  in  the  valley  of  the  Ourthe  (p.  214). 

On  the  rocks  to  the  right,  beyond  the  tunnel,  is  perched  the  tur- 
reted  old  castle  of  Trooz,  which  has  been  used  for  upwards  of  a 
century  as  a  factory  for  boring  gun-barrels.  Beyond  it  is  the  station 
of  the  same  name. 

A  picturesque  route  leads  from  Trooz  via  Prayon  into  the  gorge  of 
the  Soumagne,  with  its  picturesque  limestone  clitTs,   where  the  stream 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.  10th  Edit.  15 


226     Route  30.  DOLHAIN. 

occasionally  disappears  from  view.  Another  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken 
to  the  S.  thi'ough  the  rocky  valley  of  Masbeux,  with  a  handsome  new 
chateau  and  the  old  castle  of  Gomzi,  via  Louveignez  and  Deigni  to  (2V2- 
3  hrs.)  Reinouchamps  (p.  231). 

Several  other  prettily  situated  chateaux  are  passed  {Fraipont- 
Bas,  etc.).    Then  (972  M.)  Nessonvaux. 

121/2  M.  Pepinster  (Gr.  Hot.  de  la  Station;  Buffet),  with  2500 
inhab.,  is  the  junction  for  Spa  and  Luxembourg  (see  RR.  31,  32). 
The  name  is  said  to  be  derived  from  'Pepin's  terre',  the  district 
having  anciently  belonged  to  the  ancestors  of  Charlemagne.  The 
beautiful  park  of  the  Chateau  des  Masures  (Mr.  Biolley  de  Done'a), 
about  1  M.  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  open  to  strangers. 

Stat.  Ensival  (Gr.  Taverne  Continentale),  on  the  left,  is  almost 
a  suburb  of  Verviers. 

151/2  M.  Verviers.  —  Hotels.  HGtel  de  Londres,  Pont  St.  Laurent; 
Hot.  du  Chemin  de  Fek,  Hotel  d'Allemagne,  at  the  station.  —  Cafes- 
Kestaurants.  Grand  Cafi.  des  Ntnf  Provinces^  Taverne  de  VEmulation,  in 
the  Place  Verte;  Caft  du  Globe,  Rue  du  College. —  Tramway  between  the 
stations  and  to  Disoii  and  Ensival  (see  below). 

Verviers,  with  47,700  inhab.,  excluding  the  adjoining  communes 
of  Uodimont  and  Dison  (see  below),  is  a  town  of  modern  origin,  con- 
taining numerous  extensive  manufactories,  which  have  flourished 
here  since  the  18th  century.  Cloth  is  the  staple  commodity  of  the 
place.  Upwards  of  390,000  pieces  are  manufactured  annually  in 
Verviers  and  the  environs,  about  one-third  of  which  is  exported. 
Yarn  is  also  spun  here  in  considerable  quantity.  In  the  new  part 
of  the  town,  to  the  left  of  the  approach  to  the  station,  is  a  hand- 
some brick  church  in  the  Gothic  style.  A  monument  erected  in  the 
Place  du  Martyr  in  1880  commemorates  Chapuis,  a  citizen  exe- 
cuted in  1794  by  the  prince-bishop  of  Liege.  Pretty  walks  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Yesdre  and  to  the  residential  suburbs  of  Heusy 
and  Lamhermont.  Napoleon  IIL  spent  a  night  in  the  Hotel  du 
Chemin  de  Fer  in  1870,  when  on  his  way  as  a  prisoner  to  Wilhelms- 
hohe.  —  Travellers  in  the  other  direction  undergo  the  Belgian 
custom-house  examination  at  Verviers. 

Besides  the  main  line  described  below  another  line  runs  from  Ver- 
viers TO  L16GE,  VIA  Herve,  in  1  hr.  40  min.,  traversing  numerous  viaducts 
and  tunnels,  especially  near  (2'/2  M.)  Dison  (Hotel  des  Neuf  Provinces  ; 
Gr.  Hot.  de  Paris),  see  above.  —  From  (8  M.)  Battice  a  branch  diverges 
to  (7V.;  M.)  Aubel,  whence  it  is  being  continued  to  Bleyberg,  see  p.  22o.  — 
9V2M.  Herve  (Poisson  d'Or).  —  From  (15  M)  FUron  the  train  descends  a  rapid 
gradient  to  (21  M.)  Vaux  and  (2iV2  M.)  Chenie  (see  p.  225).  —  2i  M.  Liege. 

Beyond  Verviers  the  train  passes  through  seven  tunnels  and 
crosses  several  bridges  within  a  short  distance.  —  17  M.  Verviers-Est. 

201/2' M.  Dolhain  [Hotel  d'Allemagne;  du  Casino  de  la  Gi- 
leppe,  new,  both  near  the  station),  the  last  station  in  Belgium,  a 
modern  place ,  picturesquely  situated  in  the  valley  |of  the  Vesdre, 
occupies  the  site  of  the  lower  part  of  the  ancient  city  of  Limburg. 
On  the  height  above  it  stands  the  conspicuous  castle  of  Limburg, 
the  ancestral  seat  of  the  ancient  ducal  family  of  Limburg,  from 
which  the  counts  of  Luxembourg  and  the  German  emperors  Hen- 


HERBESTHAL.  30.  Route.     227 

ry  VII.,  Charles  IV.,  Wenceslaus,  and  Sigismund  were  descended. 
The  castle  belonged  to  the  ancient  capital  of  the  fertile  Duchy  of 
Limburg,  of  which  but  few  traces  now  remain.  The  city  possessed 
a  cathedral  and  five  other  churches,  and  occupied  the  entire  breadth 
of  the  valley  of  Dolhain.  In  1288  it  was  sacked  by  Duke  John  I.  of 
Brabant  after  the  Battle  of  Worringen,  it  was  afterwards  taken  and 
pillaged  at  different  times  by  the  Dutch,  the  Spaniards,  and  the 
French,  and  was  at  length  entirely  destroyed  by  Louis  XIV.  in 
1675.  A  number  of  well-built  houses  have  sprung  up  within  the 
walls  of  the  ancient  fortifications,  from  which  peeps  forth  the  old 
Gothic  Church  of  St.  George,  containing  a  tabernacle  of  1520.  A 
visit  may  be  paid  to  the  chateau  and  gardens  of  Mr.  Andrimont,  to 
which  visitors  are  admitted  on  application.  Fine  view  from  the  old 
Esplanade. 

From  Dolhain  si  visit  via  Go^  may  be  paid  (1  hr.)  to  the  interesting 
Barrage  de  la  Gileppe^  the  road  to  which  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Vesdre 
for  about  2  M..  and  then  follows  a  lateral  valley  to  the  right.  A  branch- 
railway  from  Dolhain  to  Bithane  is  under  construction.  —  The  Barrage 
de  la  Gileppe  (Hotel-Restaur.  du  Barrage) .,  a  triumph  of  modern  en- 
gineering, was  constructed  in  1869-78  by  Messrs.  Braive,  Caillet,  &  Co.,  from  a 
plan  by  the  engineer  jB»dau<  (d.  1868),  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  reser- 
voir of  pure,  soft  water  for  the  use  of  the  manufactories  of  Verviers.  It 
consists  of  an  immense  embankment,  90  yds.  long  and  72  yds.  thick  at  the 
base,  and  256  yds.  long  and  16  yds.  thick  at  the  top,  carried  across  a  nar- 
row part  of  the  valley  of  the  Gileppe.  The  lake  or  reservoir  thus  formed 
is  about  150  ft.  in  depth,  covers  an  area  of  200  acres,  and  contains 
2,700,000,000  gals,  of  water.  It  is  connected  with  Verviers  by  an  aqueduct, 
5V2  il.  long,  built  by  Moulan.  On  the  top  of  the  embankment  couches  a 
colossal  lion,  43  ft.  in  height,  constructed  by  Bourc  with  243  blocks  of 
sandstone.  The  total  cost  of  these  waterworks  amounted  to  five  million 
francs.  —  On  fhe  way  back  Limburg  may  be  visited.  A  pleasant  walk 
may  also  be  taken  down  the  Vesdre  to  Chenee  (p.  225). 

241/.2  M.  Herbesthal  (Hotel  Bellevue;  Hotel  Herren;  *Railway 
Restaurant) ,  the  first  Prussian  station,  is  the  junction  for  Eupen 
(Hotel  Ileinartz ;  train  in  1/4  hr.).  The  custom-house  formalities 
cause  a  detention  of  about  V-i^^r.  for  trains  from  Belgium.  Beyond 
(271/.2  M.)  Asten,et,  the  train  crosses  the  Gohl  Valley  by  a  viaduct 
of  17  double  arches,  125  ft.  high.  Beyond  (30  M.)  Ronheide  it  de- 
scends an  incline  to  — 

35  M.  Aix-la-Chapelle  (see  Baedeker's  Rhine'}.  Thence  to  Maas- 
tricht, see  R.  17  ;  to  Cologne,  DUsseldorf,  etc.,  see  Baedeker's  Rhine. 

31.  From  Pepinster  to  Trois-Vierges  (Luxeinhourg). 
Spa. 

45  M.  Railway  in  2  hrs.  (fares  5  fr.  60,  4  fr.  40,  2  fr.  85  c). 

Pepinster,  see  p.  226.  The  valley  of  the  Hoegne,  which  the  rail- 
way ascends,  is  enclosed  by  picturesque  and  wooded  hills,  and  en- 
livened by  a  succession  of  country-houses,  gardens,  and  manufac- 
tories. From  the  bridge  at  (13/^  M.)  Juslenville  we  have  a  pretty 
view  of  the  chateau,  park,  rocks,  and  high-lying  church  of  that 

15* 


228     Route  31.  SPA. 

name.  —  Near  (21/2  M.)  Theux  (Hotel- Rest.  Lemiertz),  a  quaint 
little  town  with  several  cloth-factories  and  iron-works,  rises  a  hill 
laid  out  in  pleasure-grounds,  in  which,  to  the  left,  stands  the  ex- 
tensive ruined  castle  of  Franchimont,  destroyed  as  early  as  1145  by 
a  Bishop  of  Liege  (key  kept  in  the  village  of  Marche,  to  the  left, 
opposite  the  new  convent).  The  last  proprietor  is  said  to  have  been 
a  robber-knight,  who  possessed  vast  treasures  buried  in  the  vaults 
beneath  his  castle,  where  they  remain  concealed  to  this  day.  The 
tradition  is  gracefully  recorded  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  in  his  lines  on 
the  Towers  of  Franchimont,  — 

'Which,  like  an  eagle's  nest  in  air, 

Hang  o'er  the  stream  and  hamlet  fair. 

Deep  in  their  vaults,  the  peasants  say, 

A  mighty  treasure  buried  lay, 

AmassM  through  rapine  and  through  wrong 

By  the  last  lord  of  Franchimont'. 
Above  Theux  the  Hoegne  describes  a  wide  curve  towards  the 
E.,  and  the  train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Wayai.    41/2  M.  La  Reid ; 
the  village  is  on  the  hill,  2  M.  to  the  right  (comp.  p.  231).   Farther 
on,  also  to  the  right,    lies  Marteau  (p.  231). 

71/2  M.  Spa.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  de  Flandre,  Rue  Xhrouet,  E.  3-12, 
L.3/4  A,  1,  B.  IV2,  dej.  3V2,  D.  41/2 fr.',  Hotel  d'Orange,  Rue  Royale;  Hotel 
DES  Pats-Bats,  Rue  du  Marche;  Hotel  de  l'Edkope,  Rue  Entre  les  Ponts, 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  41/4,  B.  IV2,  doj.  3'/2,  D.  41/2,  pens,  from  11,  omn.  1  fr.  •, 
Hotel  Britanniqde,  Rue  de  la  Sauveniere;  Hotel  d'York  (English  house), 
Rue  Xhrouet,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  4-5,  B.  11/2,  D.  41/2,  omn.  1  fr.  •,  Hotel  du  Midi, 
Avenue  du  Blarteau,  R.  3  fr.,  D.  4V2  fr. ;  Hotel  de  Bellevue,  same  street; 
Gii.  Hotel  des  Bains,  Place  Royale;  Hotel  du  Palais  Rotal,  Rue  du 
March^;  Hotel  Rotal,  Rue  Amontville;  Hotel  dd  Nord,  Place  Pierre- 
le-Grand;  Hotel  de  Portugal,  Place  Royale,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  3-6,  B.  1,  ddj. 
incl.  wine  3V2.  D.  incl.  wine  41/2,  pens,  from  11,  omn.  l'/2  fr.  ;  Hotel  de 
Laeken,  Rue  Royale;  Hotel  des  Etrangers,  Rue  du  Marche;  Hotel  des 
Deux-Fontaines  ,  Place  Pierre-le-Grand;  Hotel  de  Cologne,  Avenue  du 
Marteau;  Hotel  de  la  Chaine-d'Or,  Avenue  du  Marteau,  pens,  from  6  fr.; 
Hotel  de  la  Poste,  Rue  du  Marche;  Hotel  Brighton,  Rue  de  la  Sau- 
veniere,  pens.  8  fr. ;  Hotel  de  Versailles,  Rue  de  THotel-de-Ville.  Table 
d'hote  generally  at  5  o'clock.  'Pension'  at  some  of  the  hotels  7-13  fr. 
Furnished  Apartments  may  be  easily  obtained.  —  Omnibuses  from  the 
principal  hotels  are  in  waiting  at  the  station. 

Restaurants.  Casino,  see  p.  229;  at  most  of  the  above-named  hotels; 
others  at  the  Geronstere,  the  Sauveniere,  and  Barisart,  all  dear.  —  Beer 
at  the  Brasserie  de  Munich,  Place  Royale. 

Carriages.  There  are  three  kinds  of  carriages  :  those  with  one  horse 
and  seats  for  two  persons;  those  with  one  horse  and  seats  for  three;  and 
others  with  two  horses.  The  respective  fares  for  these  are:  '■Tour  des 
Fontaines''  (a  visit  to  the  different  springs;  2  hrs.)  6,  8,  10  fr. ;  to  (Sar<  and 
Francorchamps,  returning  past  the  Sauvenihre  (3V2  hrs.),  10,  12,  15  fr. ;  Theux 
and  Franchimont  (2V2hrs.)  8,  10,  12 fr.;  Grotte  de  Remouchanips  (3  hrs.)  16,  20, 
25  fr. ;  Cascade  de  Coo  (3  hrs.)  16,  18,  25  fr.,  via  Stavelot  18,  20,  30  fr. 

Horses.  Ponies  ('bidets'),  of  a  peculiar  variety  and  as  sure-footed  as 
asses  or  mules,  are  much  used;  ride  of  2  hrs.  5  fr. ;  each  additional  hour 

2  fr. ;  Grotte  de  Remouchamps  15  fr. ;   Cascade  de  Coo  15  fr. ;  etc. 

Visitors'  Tax.  Since  the  suppression  of  gaming  the  directors  of  the 
baths  have  exacted  the  following  charges  from  frequenters  of  the  Casino, 
the  Winter  Garden,  and  the  Park  :  1  pers.   for  a  fortnight  20,   2  pers.  80, 

3  pers.  40  fr.;  for  the  season  60,  90,  or  110  fr.  Day-tickets  for  the  Casino, 
11/2  fr.,  for  the  Park,  'Pavilion  des  Petits  Jeux'  and  Pouhon  IV2  fr.,  for 
the  concerts  in  the  Park  or  the  'Pavilion  des  Jeux'  50  c. 


l''raiii:qidiainp«^  Htar^jct 


SPA.  31.  Route.     229 

Concerts.  In  the  Promenade  de  Sept  Heures  at  2.30  and  at  7.30  p.m. 
(see  below).     No  music  in  the  forenoon. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Rue  Neuve. 

Theatre,  performances  on  Sun.,  Tuea.,  and  Thurs.  evenings. 

Clubs.  Cercle  des  Etrangers^  at  the  Casino  (subs.  30  fr.,  including  right 
of  admission  to  the  balls,  etc.);   Union  Club;  Lawn  Tennis  Club, 

Physicians.  Dr.  Thompson  ;  Dr.  Lezaak,  Place  Royale;  Dr.  Scheuer, 
Rue  de  la  Sauveniere;  Dr.  de  Damseaux ;  Dr.  Poskin. 

English  Church  Service,  in  the  handsome  English  Church  in  the  Boul. 
des  Anglais;  Sunday  services  at  8.30,  11,  and  7.  30;  daily  at  8.30  a.m. 
—  Presbyterian  Service  in  July  and  August  at  the  Chapelle  Evangelique. 

Spa  (820-1080  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  a  small,  attractive- 
looking  to-svn  -with  6500  iiiLal).,  is  prettily  situated  at  the  S.  hase  of 
wooded  heights,  at  the  confluence  of  three  streams,  the  Wayai,  the 
Picherotte,  and  the  Spa.  Like  other  watering-places,  it  consists  chiefly 
of  hotels  and  lodging-houses,  while  numerous  shops  and  bazaars 
with  tempting  souvenirs  and  trinkets,  a  pleasure-seeking  throng 
in  the  promenades ,  and  numbers  of  importunate  valets-de-place 
and  persons  of  a  similar  class,  all  combine  to  indicate  that 
character  which  occasioned  the  introduction  of  its  name  into 
the  English  language  as  a  generic  term.  This,  the  original 
and  genuine  'Spa',  the  oldest  European  watering-place  of  any 
importance,  has  flourished  for  a  century  and  a  half,  and  was 
the  Baden-Baden  of  the  18th  century,  the  fashionable  resort  of 
crowned  heads  and  nobles  from  every  part  of  Europe.  Peter  the 
Great  was  a  visitor  here  in  1717,  Gustavus  III.  of  Sweden  in  1780, 
the  Emp.  Joseph  II.  and  Prince  Henry  of  Prussia  in  1781,  and  the 
Emp.  Paul,  when  crown-prince  in  1782;  to  whom  might  be  added 
a  long  list  of  members  of  the  noble  families  of  England ,  France, 
Germany,  and  still  more  distant  countries,  who  have  patronised 
Spa  and  benefited  by  its  waters.  After  the  French  Revolution  its 
prosperity  began  to  decline,  but  it  has  of  late  regained  much  of  its 
popularity,  and  many  new  buildings  have  sprung  up.  It  is  now  fre- 
quented by  upwards  of  12,000  visitors  annually,  a  large  proportion  of 
whom  are  English.  The  pretty  painted  and  varnished  woodwares 
offered  for  sale  everywhere  are  a  speciality  of  Spa  (*bois  de  Spa'). 

The  town  is  entered  from  the  station  by  the  Avenue  du  Marteau 
(p.  231),  which  leads  to  the  Place  Royale.  The  new  and  imposing 
Etablissement  de  Bains  situated  here  is  admirably  fitted  up  (open 
6  a.m.  to  6  p.m.  ;  baths  60  c.-l  fr.  80  c).  Near  it,  in  the  Rue 
Royale,  is  the  Casino,  corresponding  to  the  'Cursaal'  of  German 
baths,  containing  ball,  concert,  and  reading  rooms  (see  above).  In 
the  neighbourhood  is  a  new  Romanesque  church,  by  Cluysenaar. 

In  the  Place  Pierre-le-Grand,  in  the  centre  of  the  town ,  and 
nearly  opposite  the  Casino,  is  situated  the  chief  of  the  sixteen 
mineral  springs,  called  the  Pouhon  (the  Walloon  word  pouhir  = 
puiser  in  French,  and  pouhon  =  puits,  or  well).  The  pump-room 
erected  here  in  1820  was  replaced  in  1880  by  a  more  handsome 
edifice   with    covered    promenades ,    conversation  -  rooms ,    and    a 


230     Route  31.  SPA. 

•beautiful  winter-garden  (see  p.  228).  The  water  of  this  spring  (50° 
Fahr.),  which  is  perfectly  clear,  and  strongly  impregnated  with 
iron  and  carbonic  acid  gas,  possesses  tonic  and  invigorating  proper- 
ties, and  is  largely  exported  to  all  parts  of  the  continent,  to  Eng- 
land, and  to  the  E.  and  W.  Indies.  Adjacent,  in  the  Rue  Dundas, 
is  the  Pouhon  du  Prince  de  Condi,  the  water  of  which  is  also  ex- 
ported. 

The  favourite  lounge  of  visitors  in  the  afternoon  and  evening  is 
the  Promenade  de  Sept-Heures,  shaded  by  magnificent  old  elms 
(unfortunately  seriously  injured  by  a  storm  in  1876),  where  a  good 
band  plays  (p.  229).  The  Place  Royale  (p.  230),  immediately  ad- 
joining the  promenade,  is  also  much  frequented.  During  the  con- 
certs a  charge  of  50  c.  is  made  to  non-subscribers  for  admission  to 
the  Promenade  de  SeptHeures.  — Pleasant  paths  diverging  from  the 
promenades  ascend  the  neighbouring  hills,  leading  through  the  woods 
to  fine  points  of  view.  Opposite  the  music-pavilion  of  the  Place 
Koyale  is  an  entrance  to  the  Montague  d' Annette  et  Lubin,  with  a  caf^. 
We  may  thence  extend  our  walk  down  to  (^1/2  M.)  the  valley  of  the 
Chawion,  which  flows  into  the  Wayai  near  La  Reid  (p.  228). 

The  various  springs  in  the  environs  are  most  conveniently  visited 
in  the  following  order  in  21/2-3  hrs.  (le  tour  des  fontaines).  We 
first  follow,  passing  the  Pouhon  on  the  right,  the  broad  Rue  de  la 
Cascade,  which  is  embellished  by  a  fountain  with  genii,  by  Jaquet. 
The  prolongation  of  this  street,  which  leads  uphill,  and  is  named 
Rue  de  la  Sauveniere,  is  crossed  by  the  railway,  just  after  quitting 
the  town.  We  now  follow  the  high-road  (to  the  Sauveniere,  IV2M. ; 
Francorchamps,  5M.),  which  is  pleasantly  shaded  by  elms,  to  the<5a- 
ZonLeyoz,  an  old  gambling-house,  with  a  garden.  Here  we  turn  to  the 
left  into  an  avenue,  which  leads  in  20min.  (on  the  left  a  retrospec- 
tive view  of  Spa)  to  the  Tonnelet  (250  ft.  higher  than  the  Pouhon), 
a  spring  now  less  in  vogue  that  formerly.  —  About  V2M.  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  Tonnelet  rises  the  spring  of  Niveze,  now  called  the  Source 
Marie  Henriette,  in  consequence  of  a  visit  of  the  Queen  of  Belgium 
in  1868  ;  its  water  is  conducted  to  the  Etablissement  de  Bains. 

From  the  Tonnelet  a  road  ascends  to  the  S.,  through  forests 
of  birch  and  pine,  to  the  (20  min.)  Sauveniere  (Restaurant),  sit- 
uated 460  ft.  above  the  Pouhon ,  on  the  road  from  Spa  to 
Francorchamps  and  Malmedy.  Close  to  it  is  the  Groesbeck  spring, 
surrounded  with  pleasant  plantations,  where  a  monument  was 
erected  in  1787  on  the  Promenade  d'Orleans  by  the  Due  de  Chartres 
(Louis  Philippe),  to  commemorate  the  fact  that  his  mother,  the 
Duchess  of  Orleans,  was  cured  of  a  serious  illness  by  the  waters  of 
the  Sauveniere.  At  the  Fontaine  de  Groesbeck,  women  are  some- 
times observed  devoutly  drinking  the  water  on  their  knees,  thus 
showing  their  simple  faith  in  its  miraculous  virtues.  Opposite  the 
Restaurant  de  la  Sauveniere  a  promenade  leads  at  a  right  angle  from 
the  high-road  to  the  (40  min.)   Geronstere  (Restaurant),   situated 


SPA.  31.  Route.     231 

470  ft.  higher  than  the  Pouhon,  and  also  reached  (21/2  M-)  ^Y  a 
direct  road  from  Spa.  (Leaving  the  Place  Pierre-le-Grand  by  the 
church  on  the  right,  we  pass  the  Hotel  de  Flandre  and  ascend  the 
Rue  du  Vauxhall;  about  100  yds.  from  the  railway,  we  observe,  on 
the  left,  the  former  gambling-house  of  Vauxhall,  beyond  which  the 
road  is  called  the  Rue  de  la  Geronstere.)  The  Geronstere  Spring 
was  formerly  the  most  celebrated.  Its  properties  were  tested  by 
Peter  the  Great,  whose  physician  extols  them  in  a  document  still 
preserved  at  Spa.  —  The  high-road  leads  to  the  S.,  via  La  Gleize, 
to  the  (oV'o  M.)  Waterfall  of  Coo  (see  below).  In  returning  to  Spa 
from  the  Ge'ronstere  we  soon  strike  a  pleasant  carriage-road  or  the 
Promenade  Meyerbeer  on  the  left  skirting  the  brook,  and  leading 
in  20  min.  to  the  Barisart  (165  ft.  above  the  Pouhon),  which  was 
not  enclosed  till  1850  but  is  now  much  resorted  to  (Restaurant). 
Thence  to  Spa  about  1  M. 

A  beautiful  level  promenade  is  afforded  by  the  Avenue  du 
Marteau,  a  road  flanked  with  a  double  avenue,  and  bordered  here 
and  there  with  well-built  houses.  It  leads  from  the  Place  Royale 
to  the  E.,  following  the  course  of  the  Wayai,  to  (I3/4M.)  Marteau, 
a  hamlet  with  a  chateau  and  gardens. 

Excursions  fkom  Spa.  —  The  Baraque  Michel  (2200  ft.),  the  highest 
point  in  Belgium,  belonging  to  the  Hohe  Venn  group  on  the  Prussian 
frontier,  may  be  reached  on  foot  via  Sart  (p.  232)  or  from  Iloclai  (p.  232; 
to  the  Baraque,  41/2  31.). 

To  TUE  Cascade  of  Coo,  10  M.  (carr.,  see  p.  228).  The  road  leads 
past  the  Geronstere  and  ascends  to  the  Plateau  des  Facnes.  Farther  on 
the  road  forks:  the  left  arm  leads  via  (4V2  5I.)  Andrimont  and  Roanne  to 
Coo;  the  right  arm  goes  to  Cour  and  La  Gleize  (Auberge  Delvenne).  At 
the  bridge  df  Coo  a  view  is  suddenly  obtained  of  the  pretty  Waterfall 
of  Coo,  with  its  picturesque  and  mountainous  environs.  Part  of  the  Am- 
blcve  is  here  precipitated  through  two  artificial  gaps  in  the  rock,  made 
during  last  century,  while  the  rest  of  the  water  flows  past  the  openings 
and  reaches  the  bottom  of  the  rocks  by  a  circuitous  course  of  3M.  Near 
the  waterfall  is  the  Hdtel  de  la  Cascade,  with  a  teVrace  and  pavilion. 
Kailway  from  Trois  Fonts  fp.  216)  via  Coo  and  La  Gleize  (P-  231)  to  Stou- 
mont^  see  R.  27.     This  also  makes  a  picturesque  walk  of  2-2V2  brs. 

To  Remouchamfs,  10-12  31.  (carr.,  see  p.  22S).  The  road  descends  the 
valley  of  the  Hoegne  to  the  station  of  La  Reid  (p.  228),  and  then  ascends 
to  the  left,  through  a  pretty  valley,  to  Hestroiimont  and  the  village  of  La 
Reid  (885  ft. ;  2  M.  from  the  station).  It  here  unites  with  the  steep  but 
more  direct  bridle-path  from  Marteau  (p.  231)  via  Vieux-FrL  Beyond  Haul- 
regard  the  road  descends  to  — 

Remouchamps  {Hdtel  des  Etrangert,  'pension'  5  fr.,  frequently  crowd- 
ed, in  which  case  the  inns  at  Aywaille  are  preferable),  a  station  'on  the 
railway  mentioned  at  p.  215,  and  one  of  the  prettiest  spots  in  the  valley 
of  the  Ambleve.  The  stalactite  Grotto  is  the  chief  attraction  here,  and 
should  be  visited  by  those  who  have  not  seen  the  finer  caverns  of  Han- 
sur-Lesse  (p.  192).  The  entrance  adjoins  the  Hotel  de  la  Grotte,  above 
the  Hotel  des  Etrangers  (admission  3  fr.;  torches  included;  costume  for 
ladies  IV2  fr. ;  trifling  fee  to  the  guide,  extra).  The  grotto  consists  of  an 
upper  and  a  lower  part,  to  which  last  a  fli:iht  of  steps  descends,  and  it 
is  traversed  by  a  brook.  Another  peculiarity  which  the  limestone  basin 
of  Remouchamps  has  in  common  with  other  similar  districts  is  the  dis- 
appearance of  almost  all  the  streams  in  the  neighbourhood,  towards  the 
N.,  in  subterranean  clefts  or  'entonnoirs'  (funnels),  locally  called  'chan- 
toirs'.    The  largest  of  these  is  the  Entonnoir  of  Adseux,  3  M.  *to  the  N.  of  the 


232    Route  31.  MALMEDY. 

village.  The  traveller  follows  the  road  through  the  Sicheval  ("dry  valley') 
as  far  as  the  village  of  Deigni  (p.  226),  whence  a  boy  had  better  be  taken 
as  a  guide.  That  the  brook  which  disappears  in  the  entonnoirs  is  the 
same  which  re-appears  near  Remouchamps  has  frequently  been  proved 
by  the  experiment  of  throwing  in  various  olgects  and  observing  them 
emerge  at  the  other  end. 

Above  Remouchamps  the  ancient  and  still  occupied  chateau  of  Mont 
Jardin,  loftily  situated  on  the  left  bank,  peeps  down  from  amid  dense 
foliage.  Farther  up  is  the  imposing  modern  chateau  of  Mr.  de  Theux,  with 
a  pretty  garden  (no  admission).  —  Below  Remouchamps,  and  also  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Ambleve  lies  Sougni,  at  the  base  of  the  clifT  called '//e/d 
des  Gattes^  (goats'  rock).  Thence  we  may  proceed  via  Dieupart ,  with  a 
solitary  old  church,  to  (IV2  M.)  Aywaille  (p.  215). 

The  Luxembourg  line  beyond  Spa  at  first  runs  towards  the  E., 
traversing  a  hilly  and  partly-wooded  district,  and  afterwards  turns 
to  the  S.  (views  to  the  left).  I2V2  M.  Sart-lez-Spa ;  15  M.  Hockai ; 
17'/2  M-  Francorchamps.  Farther  on,  a  fine  view  of  Stavelot  is  ob- 
tained. 

221/2 M.  Stavelot  (Hotel  d' Orange;  du  Commerce;  Am  Bahnhof), 
a  busy  manufacturing  town  with  4500  inhab.,  on  the  Ambleve,  wlii(5h 
was  the  seat  of  abbots  of  princely  rank  and  independent  jurisdiction 
down  to  the  Peace  of  Luneville  in  1801.  The  Benedictine  Abbey 
was  founded  as  early  as  651,  and  its  possessions  included  Malmedy, 
which  has  belonged  to  Prussia  since  1815.  Part  of  the  tower  only 
of  the  Romanesque  abbey-church  is  now  extant.  The  parish-church 
contains  the  *Chdsse  de  St.  Remade,  Bishop  of  Liege  in  652-62,  a 
reliquary  of  embossed  copper,  gilded,  enamelled,  and  bejewelled. 
The  niches  at  the  sides  are  filled  with  statuettes  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  St.  Remaclius,  and  St.  Lambert,  in  silver,  executed  in 
the  13th  century. 

About  5  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Stavelot  (diligence  twice  daily,  crossing 
the  Prussian  frontier  halfway),  in  a  pretty  basin  of  the  Warche,  lies  the 
Prussian  town  of  Malmedy  (Lottes;  Jacob),  the  capital  of  a  Walloon 
district  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  independent  Benedictine  abbey 
of  Malmedy-Stavelot,  and  was  annexed  to  Prussia  in  1815.  The  abbey- 
church,  originally  in  the  Romanesque  style,  and  the  abbey-buildings, 
which  are  occupied  by  public  offices,  form  an  extensive  pile.  French  is 
still  spoken  by  the  upper  classes,  and  the  Walloon  dialect  by  the  lower 
throughout  the  district  (about  10,000  inhab.). 

The  line  now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Ambleve.  —  25^/2  M. 
Trois-Ponts  (see  p.  216),  where  carriages  are  changed.  —  Con- 
tinuation of  the  line  to  Luxembourg,  see  R.  27. 


LTIXEMBOURG. 


The  Grand-Duchy  of  Luxembourg ^  with  an  area  of  about  1000  sq.  M. 
and  ^13,280  inhab.  (almost  all  Roman  Catholics),  forms  the  E.  half  of  the 
old  duchy  of  Luxembourg  (part  of  the  Spanish  Netherlands)  and  from 
1839  to  1890  was  connected  with  Holland  by  a  personal  union.  Down  to 
1866  it  was  a  member  of  the  Germanic  Confederation,  but  in  1867  it  was 
declared  by  the  Treaty  of  London  a  neutral  territory,  with  a  separate  ad- 
ministration. After  the  death  of  King  William  III.  "of  Holland  in  1890,  it 
passed  according  to  the  treaty  of  succession  to  the  Grand-duke  Adolf  (of 
Nassau;  b.  1817).  It  still  belongs  to  the  German  Zollverein  or  Customs'" 
Union,  but  as  the  duty  on  spirits  is  not  raised  as  in  Germany,  a  tolerably 
rigid  customs  examination  takes  place. 

The  present  duchy  includes  the  N.E.  part  of  the  Ardennes  and  shares 
the  general  characteristics  of  that  district,  consisting  of  a  somewhat  mono- 
tonous plateau  (with  an  average  height  of  about  1600  ft.),  with  extensive 
woods  and  a  somewhat  raw  climate.  The  last  trait  is  specially  character- 
istic of  the  N.  part  of  the  duchy,  sometimes  called  the  Oe sling  or  Eislvig, 
which  belongs  to  the  'Grauwacke'  or  clay-slate  formation,  while  the 
S.E.  part  consists  of  variegated  sandstone.  The  plateau,  however,  is  inter- 
sected by  numerous  deeply-cut  valleys,  which  offer  many  points  of  interest 
to  the  tiiurist  and  artist. 

The  inhabitants,  though  of  pure  Teutonic  race,  are  strongly  French 
in  their  sympathies,  especially  in  the  upper  classes.  The  popular  language 
is  a  low-Ocrman  dialect,  very  unintelligible  to  strangers  i  the  official  lan- 
guages are  French  and  German.  The  official  currency  is  the  same  as  in 
Belgium  (francs  and  centimes),  the  grand-duchy  having  joined  the  Latin 
Monetary  Union;  but  German  money  is  also  freely  current  (comp.  p,  xii). 

The  hotels  are  generally  good  and  their  charges  moderate.  The  beer 
and  wine  is  usually  fair,  even  in  the  smaller  villages.  The  best  of  the 
local  wines  is  that  of  Wormeldingen,  nn  the,  Moselle.  The  Kirschengeist,  or 
cherry-brandy,  of  Befort,  near  Echternach,  has  a  local  reputation. 

32.  From  (Liege]  Trois-Vierges  to  Luxembourg. 

43  31.  Railway  in  about  2V-j  hrs.  (fares  .5  fr.  60,  3  fr.  70,  2  fr.  40  c).  — 
No  express  trains. 

From  Liege  to  Trois-Tierges  (German  Vlflingen),  see  RR.  27, 
31.  —  Trois-Vierges,  see  p.  216. 

Beyond  Trois-Vierges  tlie  railway,  now  under  German  manage- 
ment, continues  to  follow  the  Wolz.  3  M.  Maulusmiihle,  properly 
Maulfesmiihle.  The  sides  of  the  valley  increase  in  height,  their 
upper  slopes  being  wooded.  —  5  M.  Clerf  or  Clervaux  (Claravallis), 
a  picturesquely-situated  industrial  place  (Hotel  Koner,  well  spoken 
of)  to  the  E.  of  the  line,  with  an  old  castle,  visible  from  the  line 
before  and  after  the  passage  of  the  tunnel,  but  not  from  the  station. 
The  well-preserved,  high-lying  castle  now  belongs  to  the  Count  de 
Berlaymont.  Fine  view  from  the  adjoining  height  called  'Gibraltar'. 
—  On  a  rocky  knoll  opposite  the  station  lies  the  Loretto  Chapel.  — 
An  omnibus  runs  from  Clerf  to  Dasbury  (p.  240). 


234   Route  32.  OBERWILTZ.        From  Trois-Vierges 

Pedestrians  will  be  repaid  by  alighting  from  the  train  at  Maulusmiihle 
and  walking  thence  to  Clerf.  They  follow  the  right  slope  of  the  valley 
till  they  reach  the  road  descending  from  Asselbom,  with  its  leaning  church- 
tower.  —  At  Hetzingen,  3  M.  from  Asselborn,  is  the  old  Klause,  with  a 
celebrated  carved  altar.  Near  the  adjacent  frontier-village  of  Hoffelt  be- 
gins a  subterranean  canal,  I1/2  M.  long,  which  was  intended  to  connect  the 
Rhine  and  the  Maas,  but  was  abandoned  in  1830.  —  Another  pleasant 
walk  may  be  taken  from  Clerf  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Wolz  through 
the  parish  ('Kischelf)  of  Pintsc7>^  via  Drauffelt  (railway-station)  to  Enche- 
ringen  near  Wilwerwiltz  (see  below);  and  thence  over  the  hills  (the  Plackige 
Lei)  to  Erpeldingen  and  (3V2hrs.  from  Clerf)  Niederwiltz  (see  below). 

Several  tunnels  now  follow  in  rapid  succession.  11  M.  Wilicer- 
wiltz  (Inn,  at  tlie  station);  diligence  daily  via  Hosingen  (Hippert's 
Inn)  to  Dashurg  (p.  240). 

Below  Wilverwiltz  the  valley  contracts,  and  as  far  as  Kautenbach 
it  is  known  as  the  Clerfthal.  The  numerous  windings  of  the  Wolz^ 
which  is  crossed  by  ten  bridges,  are  avoided  by  five  tunnels.  Be- 
tween the  second  and  third  tunnels,  to  the  left,  is  the  picturesque 
ruin  of  *Schutburg  (reached  direct  from  Kautenbach  in  35  ruin, 
with  permission  of  the  station-master;  or  via  Altscheid).  —  15  M. 
Kautenbach  (Frederer,  tolerable),  a  quaint  village  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Wilz  and  the  Wolz,  with  houses  clinging  to  the  face  of  tlio 
rock.  —  A  branch-line  runs  hence  to  (I2Y2  M.)  Benonchamps 
(p.  194)  via  Wiltz  (see  below). 

Another  highly  interesting  walk  may  be  taken  to  WiUz  (railway,  see 
above  and  p.  l!  4),  with  which  may  be  combined  a  visit  to  £sch  an  der 
Sauer  (6-7  hrs.).  Leaving  Kautenbach  we  proceed  via  Mevckholz  to  Nieder- 
iciltz  (Hames,  at  the  station),  a  brisk  little  town  with  leather  and  cloth 
factories,  on  the  left  side  of  the  valley. 

A  road  leads  hence,  on  the  other  slope  of  the  valley,  to  Oberwiltz 
{"Hotel  des  Ardennes^  with  carriages  for  hire,  9  fr.  per  day),  situated  on 
a  narrow  ridge.  We  continue  to  follow  the  road  to  Esch  (short-cut  for 
walkers),  and  beyond  the  next  cross-roads,  we  descend,  following  the  tele- 
graph-wires (shorter  footpaths),  into  a  wooded  basin.  On  the  hill  to  the 
right  lies  the  village  of  Biiderscheid.  A  little  lower  down  we  find  ourselves 
at  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  by  which  the  road  to  Esch  penetrates  the  high 
and  serrated  wall  of  the  Kohlesterlei.  On  emerging  from  the  tunnel  we 
obtain  a  splendid  *View  of  the  valley.  Following  the  windings  of  the 
Satier^  we  see  above  us  the  Chapel  of  SI.  Anna.  Beyond  the  last  bend 
lies  Esch  an  der  Sauer  (Greisch),  an  unimportant  village  in  a  romantic 
and  sequestered  situation,  from  which  it  is  also  called.  Esch-le-Trou  ('Esch 
in  the  hole  ).  The  ruins  of  the  -Castle,  in  the  ll-13th  cent,  the  seat  of  a 
branch  of  the  ducal  family  of  Lorraine  and  still  partly  inhabited  by  poor 
families,  occupy  the  top  of  a  bare  black  rock,  bifurcated  by  a  deep  inden- 
tation and  surrounded  by  loftier  heights.  The  best  view  of  the  castle-rock 
is  obtained  from  the  S.  side.  —  In  returning  we  may  either  follow  the 
direct  route  to  Kautenbach  (21/2  hrs.)  over  the  plateau,  via  Ilacher  and 
Goesdorf  (with  an  antimony  mine,  now  almost  exhausted),  or  proceed  to 
Gobelsmiihle  (6  M. ;  p.  235).  The  new  road  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sauer 
to  the  last  diverges  from  the  Wiltz  road  at  the  finger-post  just  on  this 
side  of  the  Sauer  bridge,  opposite  the  inn  of  Renter- Pennink,  and  leads 
high  up  on  the  hill-side  to  the  left  (views)  to  Heiderscheidergrund .,  a 
prettily  situated  village  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Sauer.  About  3  M. 
farther  on  is  Tadler,  with  a  small  waterfall.  Below  the  Buchholtz  Mill, 
to  the  left,  is  the  huge  and  precipitous  Teu/elslei.,  and  near  Derenbach 
rises  another  imposing  rock.  We  now  cross  the  Sauer  twice,  by  an  old 
and  a  new  bridge,  and  reach  the  narrow  ravine  of  Gobelsmiihle, 


to  Luxembourg.  ETTELBRUCK.  32.  Route.     235 

Tlie  railway  continues  to  follow  the  narrow,  rocky  valley  of  the 
Wilz,  which  at  this  point  is  only  partly  accessible  to  walkers.  Three 
tunnels.  17V2  M.  Gobelsmiihle  (Lauterbour ,  plain"),  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Wilz  and  the  Sauer.  Three  more  tunnels.  On  a 
height  to  the  left  is  Schlindermanderscheid.  To  the  right,  on  an 
isolated  hill,  is  the  many-towered  castle  of  Burscheid. 

The  castle  owes  its  dilapidated  condition  partly  to  a  bombardment  by 
.the  French  in  1685,  but  chiefly-  to  modern  vandalism.  The  path  ascend- 
to  the  (40  min.)  castle  and  the  village  of  Burscheid  (Inn) ,  which  is  situ- 
ated higher  up,  begins  at  a  group  of  houses  to  the  left,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  tunnel.  From  the  top  a  rough  path  leads  direct  to  Gobelsmiihle  via 
Fischetterhof .  and  from  the  village  a  picturesque  new  carriage-road  also 
leads  thither  in  IV2  hr. 

20m.  Michelau.  The  valley  of  the  Sauer  contracts,  and  the 
train  passes  through  three  tunnels.  The  picturesque  rocky  scenery 
of  this  part  of  the  valley  (Wildlei,  ScharfLei,  Jaufferslei,  Predigt- 
stuhl)  is  not  seen  to  advantage  from  the  railway,  but  walkers  may  ex- 
plore it  when  the  water  is  low  (enquiry  should  be  made  of  one  of 
the  railway  officials  or  signalmen).  —  The  chateau  of  Erpeldingen 
(stat.)  contains  an  alabaster  chimney-piece  of  the  Renaissance.  The 
Talley  now  expands  and  forms  a  wide  basin,  in  which,  above  the 
confluence  of  the  Alzette  and  the  Sauer,  lies  (^Si/.,  M.)  Ettelbruck 
(Hotel  Herckmans;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a  small  town  (4000  inhab.), 
with  an  interesting  church,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Warke  and  the  Alzette.    Fine  view  from  the  Nuck  (belvedere). 

From  Ettelbriick  to  Diekirch  and  Wasserbillig,  see  p.  239.  —  A  branch- 
line  also  runs  hence  to  Bettingen  (p.  195),  via  Useldingen^  with  a  ruined 
castle  and  Gothic  chapel  -,  etc. 

At  Ettelbriick  the  train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Alzette,  which 
is  at  first  narrow  and  picturesque,  and  follows  it  to  Luxembourg. 
To  the  right,  on  a  wooded  hill,  stands  the  chateau  of  Birtringen.  — 
26  M.  Colmar-Berg  (Concemius;  Meris),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Alzette  and  Attert,  with  an  old  castle  of  the  Counts  of  Nassau,  partly 
rebuilt  in  the  English-Gothic  "style  by  King  William  III.  (d.  1890), 
and  surrounded  with  pleasant  grounds  (visitors  admitted).  —  The 
valley  again  contracts.    Tunnel.    28  M.  Kruchten. 

From  Kkuchten'  to  La  Eochette,  7'  '2  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway  in 40 min. 
(fares  1  fr.  5,  65  c).  The  line  runs  via  Dor/  Kruchten^  Schrondiceiler,  and 
iff  dernacA  (where  the  fine  musaic  pavement  in  the  Luxembourg  5Iuscum  and 
numerous  other  Roman  antiquities  were  found),  to  La  Rochette,  Ger.  Fels 
(Poste,  'pens.'  5  fr.;  Hilger-Lorfz,  also  a  wine-merchants),  finely  situated  in 
the  valley  of  the  Weisse  Erenz  and  adapted  for  a  stay  of  some  duration.  On 
a  rock  rising  perpendicularly  above  the  town  are  the  extensive  ruins  of 
the  old  *Castle  (reached  by  the  'Chemin  de  la  Ruine' ;  small  fee  to  the 
attendant;  ring).  The  N.  part  of  the  ruin,  including  the  hall,  chapul.  and 
kitchen,  is  in  best  preservation.  The  tower  on  the  opposite  rock  is  a 
relic  of  a  fortress  which  completely  commanded  the  valley.  —  From  La 
Rochette  we  may  proceed  via  (3/4  hr.)  the  chateau  of  Meytemhurg  (shown 
in  the  absence  of  the  owner,  the  Due  d'Arenberg)  and  Angelsberg  to 
(II/2  hr.)  Mertch  (p.  236). 

Fkom  La  Rochette  to  Echterkach,  a  pleasant  excursion  of  1-2  days. 
—  A  road  leads  to  the  E.  from  La  Rochette,  across  the  watershed  be- 
tween the  Weisse  and  Schwavze  Erenz,  to  (4'/2  M.)  the  village  of  Christnach 


236     Route  32.  MERSCH.  From  Trois-Vieryes 

(Hotel-Restaurant  Brandenburger-Mersch),  the  Roman  Crucenacum,  and  then 
descends  through  the  ravine  of  the  Kesselter  Bach  to  the  sombre  wooded 
valley  of  the  SchwarzeErenz.  [The  high-road  goes  on  to  Breitweiler  and  Cons- 
dorf,  whence  we  may  proceed  through  the  valley  of  the  Lauferbach^  with 
the  Leiwerdelt  Rocks,  to  Echternach  (p.  241).]  The  upper  part  of  the  valley 
of  the  Krenz,  and  also  the  Blumenlhal,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hugerboch, 
contain  some  picturesque  rocks,  which  are,  however,  inferior  to  those 
lower  down.  —  Just  below  the  Breitweiler  Bridge  begins  a  series  of  most 
fantastic  rocky  formations  (the  finest  points  made  accessible  bypaths  and 
pointed  out  by  finger-posts).  The  Erenz  forms  a  small  waterfall  (25  ft. 
high)  at  the  Promenaden-Briicke^  beyond  which  a  path  ascends  (right)  to 
(2o  min.)  the  Eulenbuvg  and  Goldfralei.  Skirting  the  stream,  we  next  reach 
the  Miillerthal,  with  a  group  of  mills,  and  the  Heringerburg  (to  the  left). 
Thence  we  follow  the  road  to  (3  M.)  Vogelsmuhle. 

Beyond  the  bridge,  at  the  finger-post  marked  '4  Kil.\  the  new  road 
ascends  to  the  left  to  Befort  or  Beaufort  (Bleser;  Bins/eld;  Klein),  a  village 
on  the  Taupeschbach,  famed  for  its  cherry-brandy.  In  the  valley  below 
are  the  'new'  and  the  'old'  Castle;  the  latter,  in  spite  of  decay  and 
vandalism,  is  still  the  most  important  Renaissance  structure  in  the  di- 
strict after  Vianden  (p.  240).  Both  chateaux  are  shown  to  visitors.  ,From 
Befort  we  may  visit  the  pretty  Hallerbach  Valley,  with  its  fantastic'  rocks 
natural  rock-bridges,  and  luxuriant  vegetation. 

We  descend  the  valley  of  the  Erenz  to  Grundhof-Neumiihle  (see  p.  240), 
on  the  railway  from  Diekirch  to  Wasserbillig.  Paths  lead  from  the  inn 
and  from  the  mill  to  the  top  of  the  lofty  cliffs  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Erenz.  Among  the  most  striking  points  in  the  fantastic  rocky  scenery 
are  the  JJolle  Qights  necessary),  the  CaseU  (view),  the  Winterbachsfehen, 
the  Schnelleri,  the  clefts  of  the  Binzerlei,  and  the  ^Sept  Gorges  or  Sieben- 
schlilff,  the  latter  showing  a  singular  chaos  of  immense  rocks.  Guide  ad- 
visable ;  Thiel  of  Echternach  (Rue  de  Sure)  may  be  recommended.  —  We 
now  proceed  across  the  plateau  to  the  E.  to  Berdorf  (Wagner;  Kinnen),  a 
large  village,  with  an  old  parish-church.  The  altar  is  formed  of  a  Roman 
'ara',  with  reliefs  of  Hercules,  Juno,  Minerva,  and  Apollo  (fee  to  the  sa- 
cristan). To  the  S.  of  Berdorf  stretches  the  Ehsbachthal,  with  the  Hohllei, 
an  artificial  cavern  formed  by  the  quarrying  of  mill-stones,  and  popularly 
supposed  to  have  been  first  used  by  the  Romans.  —  A  good  path  descends 
through  the  ravine  to  the  rocky  gorge  known  as  the  Shipka  Pass.  At  the 
point  where  the  new  Berdorf  road  quits  the  valley,  to  the  left  (sign-post), 
opens  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Halsbach  (with  the  Wilkeschkam7ner). 
At  the  angle  of  the  tv.-o  gorges  rises  the  lofty  Perikop,  which  may  be 
ascended  by  a  kind  of  rocky  'cheminee'  or  funnel.  Farther  on  in  the 
Ehsbachthal  is  the  Labyrinth  (right  bank  \  way-post) ;  the  Geiersweg,  on 
the  left  bank,  leads  to  an  interesting  rocky  gateway.  At  the  end  of  the 
valley  is  the  romantic  ''Wolfsschlucht,  through  which  we  may  descend  to 
the  right  (way-post)  to  the  valley  of  the  Sure  (p.  240).  A  pleasant  detour 
may  be  made  via  the  Pavilion,  which  commands  a  good  view  of  Echter- 
nach (p.  241). 

.311/2  M.  Mersch  (Hotel -Restaur,  de' la  Garc;  Hotel  SteflFen; 
Weyer;  carriage  10  fr.  per  day),  a  small  town  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Eisch,  the  Mamer,  and  the  Alzette.  The  chateau  (17th  cent.) 
contains  some  fine  vaulted  apartments. 

Excursions.  —  The  Valley  of  the  Eisch  is  characterised  by  pictur- 
esque sandstone  formations  and  fresh  green  woods.  We  proceed  from 
Mersch,  via  Rickingen,  to  the  (i'/4  hr.)  chateau  of  Hoblenfels,  perched  upon 
a  weather-beaten  rock  and  now  occupied  by  a  farmer  (small  fee).  The 
newer  portion  of  the  building  dates  from  the  IGth  cent. ;  the  remains  of  the 
older  part  include  a  lofty  tower  (fine  view  from  the  top),  with  two  vaulted 
chambers.  A  little  higher  up  lies  the  poor  village  of  Hohlenfels  (no  inn). 
On  the  way  to  the  castle  is  the  figure  of  a  saint,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
■ —  About  I'/z  M.  to  the  S.E.  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  nunnery  of 
Marienlhal,  founded  in  1237.    The  adjoining  building  is  occupied  by  Do- 


UJRkircfKEclitcmarh yEich, 


JbaUoir 


r.2. 


2  Atliaiee^BiblioihJtusee  B.3. 

dllist .  tiaturrUe 

3  Bouts  et  laroirs  B.2. 
i  C/iambrv  des  deputes  B.3. 

5  Dauaiies  B.2. 

6  Ecole  de  miLsique  A-2. 

7  Sani/mire  B.3. 

8  Eglise  MAlphonse  B.2. 

9  XotreDcaiie  B.3. 

10  SHunegonde  J).1.2. 
U              AfoTra/?  C.3. 

Geo^raph  Jnstatt  TDii 


12  JS^r/MP  SiMaUiieu 

13  .       StMJchel 
ll  aiap.S^Quirin 

15  Temple  israelite 

16  Temple  protestant 

17  Eveehe 

18  Eopitnl  cirrH 

19  Botel dii  (rtnirernemeitt       B.3. 

20  ^rf/-//!  /H^«*OTJ  ^OTflZf  B.2.3. 

21  ^rZ^"  villeJfusee  Pesmtore  B.3 

22  Alaismi  niriale  B.3. 


B.r.l.  23  ifomtm.de  la ptimesse  A.2 

C.2.   2i  Palais  de  ./ustire  B.C. 2 

V.4!.   27t  Posies  el  Telefjrapltes  A.B..'i. 
B.3.    26  Prisons  el  depde  mendtrite  V  .'.\. 

B.3.:27  Tltedlre  B.2. 

B.2.   28  /"o///  oV/  Cliateau  (' 
C.2.i 


to  Luxembourg.  LUXEMBOURG.  32.  Eoute.     237 

minicans.  —  Following  the  Eisoh  towards  the  S.W.  we  reach  (20  min.) 
the  chateau  of  Ansemburg,  a  building  of  the  ITth  cent.,  with  a  gar- 
den in  the  French  style.  Opposite  is  a  flight  of  »tep.s  ascending  to  the 
old  chapel,  on  a  steep  wooded  slope.  A  little  farther  on  is  the  ^^llage 
of  Ansemburg  (Schenten),  commanded  by  the  picturesque  ivy-clad  ruins 
(partly  inhabited)  of  the  old  castle .  situated  on  a  lofty  sandstone  rock. 
Fine  view  from  the  top.  The  best  view  of  the  village  and  old  castle  is 
obtained  from  a  meadow  beyond  the  modern  chateau,  reached  by  a  bridge 
over  the  Eisch.  —  [From  Ansemburg  we  may  proceed  through  the  pictur- 
esque 5aM»i5«;JcA /"ores^  to  02',  4hrs.)  Luxembourg,  viM)  on  deling  en  (on  the 
high-road  from  Saul  to  Luxembourg  via  Tuntelingen  and  Bour;  see  be- 
low) and  Kapstal,  in  the  valley  of  the  Mamer.]  —  Ascending  the  course 
of  the  Eisch  we  reach  Bour  and  (t  hr.)  Simmeni  (Simon-Wagner,  near  the 
church),  properly  Sithenborn,  French  Sept/outaines,  with  an  interesting 
church  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  picturesquely  situated  near  the  top  of 
a  wooded  hill.  In  a  side -valley  which  opens  here  to  the  S.  lies  (1  hr.) 
Korich.  with  a  medi?eval  church  and  castle,  —  We  may  now  return  to  the 
N.  via  8dul  (Gaasch)  and  (2-3  hrs.)  Useldingen.  or  we  may  ascend  from 
Ansemburg  by  the  convent-farm  of  Marienthal  to  the  Claushof.  and  then 
descend  via  the  chateau  of  Schdn/elt  (Toussaint's  Inn)  and  the  valley  of 
the  Mamei-  to  Mersch  (p.  236). 

34  M.  Lintgen;  351/2  ^J-  Lorentzweiler ;  SS^o  M.  Wolferdange 
or  Walferdingen,  with  a  grand-ducal  chateau;  40^  o  ^^-  Dommel- 
dange  or  Dommeldingen,  with  large  blast-furnaces,  also  the  station 
for  the  manufacturing  town  of  Eich  (opposite).  —  The  train  now 
passes  the  Pfa/fenthal  (see  below),  spanned  by  an  old  bridge  with 
towers,  traverses  two  viaducts,  and  enters  the  central  station  (Gare 
Centrale)  of  Luxembourg, 

43  M.  LtLZembourg.  —  Hotels.  -Hotel  Beasselr  (PI.  A,  2),  E.., 
L.,  <fe  A.  2-6,  B.  1,  dij.  2,  D.  2  fr.  60  c,  pens,  from  8  fr..  omn.  GO  c, ;  Hotel 
DE  l'Eubop'e  (PI.  B,  2j,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  de  Cologne  ,(P1.  B,  2); 
Hotel  de  Lcxembourg  (PI.  C.  2);  Hotel  des  Nations,  Hotel-Restacr. 
Clesse.  both  near  the  station. 

Restaurants.  Faber,  Place  d\Armes  (PI.  B,  2,  3).  —  Cafes.  Ca/^  Jia- 
lien;  Ca/e  Metzler;   Ca/e  de  la  Place. 

Tramicay  from  the  railway-station  through  the  town  to  the  N.  side  of 
the  Park  (PI.  A,  2).  —  Photographs  at  the  book-shops  of  Brucl  and  Biiclc, 

Luxembourg.,  formerly  Littzelburg,  once  a  fortress  of  the  German 
Confederation,  with  19,000  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  the  grand-duchy 
of  Luxembourg  (p.  231).  The  situation  of  the  town  is  peculiar 
and  picturesque.  The  Oberstadt,  or  upper  part,  is  perched  upon  a 
rocky  table-land,  which  is  bounded  on  three  sides  by  abrupt  preci- 
pices, 200  ft.  high.  At  the  foot  of  these  flow  the  Pefrw^^e  and  the  ^Z- 
zeffe,  which  are  bounded  by  equally-precipitous  rocks  on  the  oppo- 
site bank.  In  this  narrow  ravine  lies  the  busy  Unterstadt  or  lower 
portion  of  the  town,  consisting  of  Pfaffenthal.  theN.,  Clausen,  theE., 
and  Grund,  the  S.  suburb,  separated  by  the  Bock  (p.  238).  The  view 
of  the  town,  with  its  variety  of  mountain  and  valley,  gardens  and 
rocks,  groups  of  trees  and  huge  viaducts,  is  singularly  striking. 

The  fortifications,  which  were  partly  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock, 
were  condemned  to  demolition  by  the  Treaty  of  London  in  1867, 
and  a  few  only  of  their  oldest  parts  have  been  allowed  to  remain. 

The  construction  of  the  works  gradually  progressed  during  500  years 
under  various  possessors, —  Henry  IV.,  Count  of  Luxembourg,  afterwards 


238     Route  32.  LUXEMBOURG. 

German  Emp.  as  Henry  VII.  (d.  1312),  his  son  John,  the  blind  king  of 
Bohemia  (killed  at  Crecy,  1346),  the  Burgundians,  the  Spaniards,  the 
French  (whose  celebrated  engineer  Vauban  constructed  a  great  part  of 
the  fortress),  the  Austrians,  the  French  again,  and  finally  the  German 
Confederation,  by  whom  it  was  evacuated  in  1866. 

From  the  railway-station  (PI.  C,  5),  we  cross  the  imposing  via- 
duct spanning  the  deep  valley  of  the  Petrusse,  and  follow  the  tram- 
way along  the  Boulevard  du  Viaduc  to  the  centre  of  the  town.  To  the 
left  is  the  Place  de  la  Constitution  (PI.  B,  3),  affording  a  beautiful 
view.  In  the  Place  Guillaume  (3/4  M.  from  the  station)  a  Statue  of 
William  JI.,  King  of  the  Netherlands,  byMercier  of  Paris,  was  erected 
in  1884.  —  Opposite  the  monument,  to  theE.,  is  the  former  Govern- 
ment House  [Palais  du  Roi  or  Hotel  de  la  Maison  Royale;  PI.  20,  B,  2, 
3),  a  handsome  buUding  with  two  oriel-windows  and  a  long  balcony, 
erected  in  1850,  The  second  floor  contains  an  interesting  and  well 
arranged  collection  of  Roman,  Prankish,  and  other  antiquities  (coins, 
fine  Roman  glass,  etc.),  found  chiefly  in  the  Roman  camp  at  Pahl- 
heim  and  in  Prankish  tombs  at  Emmeringen  and  Waldwies  (apply 
to  the  custodian;  entrance  by  the  gate  to  the  left),  —  The  Hotel  de 
Ville  (PI.  21;  B,  3),  in  the  Place  Guillaume,  to  the  S.W.,  contains 
a  collection  of  French  (Gudin,  Calame,  Meissonier,  etc.)  and  Dutch 
paintings,  bequeathed  to  the  town  in  1855  by  M.  J.  P,  Pescatore 
(adm.  50  c).  —  The  Gothic  cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  (PI.  9;  B,  3) 
has  a  fine  Renaissance  portal  (1621)  and  a  rococo  organ-loft. 

The  site  of  the  fortifications  has  been  converted  into  a  public 
Park  (PI.  A,  3,  2,  1),  adjoined  by  several  new  streets.  Here  also 
is  the  Gothic  Altersheim,  founded  by  the  Pescatore  family.  No 
visitor  should  omit  to  walk  through  the  park,  past  the  monument  of  the 
Duchess  Amelie  of  Saxe-Weimar,  first  wife  of  the  late  Prince  Henry 
of  the  Netherlands,  by  Petre  (PI. 23),  to  the  terrace  to  the  left  of  the 
Eich  road  (PI.  B,  1),  which  affords  a  striking  view  of  the  Pfaffenthal. 
A  good  view  of  the  town  is  obtained  from  the  S.  height  of  the  Ober- 
grunwald  (PI.  C,  1).  —  A  visit  to  the  Bock,  a  precipitous  and  for- 
merly fortified  rock,  connected  with  the  town  by  the  Pont  du  Chateau, 
is  also  recommended.  —  Of  the  magnificent  castle  and  gardens  of 
the  Spanish  Governor  Prince  Mansfeld  (1545-1604),  in  the  suburb 
of  Clausen  (F\.  D,  1,  2),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Alzette,  no  vestige 
is  left,  except  a  small  portion  of  the  wall  and  two  gateways,  into 
which  several  Roman  sculptures  are  built.  The  Drei  Eicheln,  three 
well-preserved  old  towers,  may  also  be  visited  from  Clausen  (plea- 
sant walk).  —  The  very  ancient  Chapel  of  St.  Quirinus  (PI.  14),  in 
the  valley  of  the  Petrusse,  hewn  in  the  living  rock,  contains  an  altar 
with  old  Romanesque  sculptures  (key  in  the  house  next  the  old 
well).  In  Aug.  and  Sept.,  the  popular  Schobermesse,  a  fair  esta- 
blished by  the  blind  king  John  (see  above)  in  the  14th  cent.,  takes 
place  outside  the  Neuthor,  to  the  N.  of  the  town. 

From  Luxembourg  to  Remich,  I6V2  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway  in  about 
2  hrs.  (fares  2  fr,,  1  fr.  25  c).  —  2  M.  Eesperingen  (Weydert ;  Adams-Speyer; 
Entringcr),   prettily   situated  in   the  narrow   valley   of  the  Alzette;  high 


DIEKIRCH.  33.  Route.     239 

above  the  village  are  tlie  ruins  of  a  castle  destroyed  in  1483.  Pleasant 
walks  may  be  taken  to  the  Pulvermiihlthal  (p.  242).  KoUeschberg ,  etc.  — 
51/2  M.  Weiler-la-Toui\  taking  its  name  from  an  ancient  Roman  tower.  — 
71/2  M.  Aspelt.  the  birthplace  of  Peter  Aichspalt  (d.  1320),  Archbishop  of 
Mayence.  About  2  M.  to  the  Is.E.,  on  a  hill  to  the  S.  oi Dahlheim,  lies  the 
most  important  of  the  four  Roman  camps  of  Luxembourg,  indicated  by 
a  pyramid.  [The  other  three  camps  are  the  Titelhevg  near  Rodingen,  to 
the  K.E.  of  Longwy  near  the  W.  frontier,  the  Helperknap  near  TJseldingen 
(p.  235),  and  Altirier,  usually  called  Alttrierschanz,  to  the  S.E.  of  Breit- 
weiler,  on  the  road  from  Dommeldange  to  Echternach.]  Extensive  view, 
reaching  to  Metz.  —  The  train  now  follows  the  picturesque  valley  of  the 
Altbach  and  approaches  the  frontier  of  Lorraine.  On  a  rocky  knoll  stands 
the  chapel  of  the  Hermitage  du  Castel.  —  9V2  M.  Altwies  (Hotel  du  Luxem- 
bourg;  de  France),  connected  bv  a  promenade  with  the  saline  thermal 
baths  (GS-'Fahr.)  of  (10i'2M.)  Mondorf  (Grand  Chef;  Bellevue;  Hotel  de 
TEurope),  which  are  efficacious  in  scrofulous,  rheumatic,  nervous,  and 
bronchial  affections.  —  I6V2  M.  Remich  (ffdtel  des  Ardennes ;  H6tel  du 
Commerce.,  both  in  the  town;  Restaurant,  opposite  the  station),  a  small 
town  with  2300inhab..  on  the  sloping  bank  of  the  Moselle,  connected  by 
a  bridge  with  the  Prussian  shore.  About  3'/2  M.  farther  up  the  Moselle 
is  Schengen,  with  an  interesting  old  castle.  —  Diligence  from  Eemich  to 
Nennig.,  see  Baedeker^s  Rhine. 

Railwat  from  Luxembourg  to  Thionville  and  Metz^  see  Baedeker's  Rhine. 

33.  From  Luxembourg  to  Wasserbillig  via  Diekirch 
and  Echternach. 

52  M.  Railway  in  31/2  hra.  (fares  6  m.  60.  4  m.  50  pf.,  3  m.). 

The  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station.  As  far  as  (I91/2  M.) 
Ettelbriick,  see  p.  235.  —  22  M.  Diekirch  (*  Hotel -Pension  des 
Ardennes,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  31  2,  D-  21,2,  S.  2.  pens.  61  4-81  4  fr. ; 
Hotel  de  V Europe;  Malson  Rouge;  Hotel  du  Luxembourg ;  baths  at 
Kohn-Tschiderer's^  near  the  railway-station),  a  pleasant  little  town 
with  3400  inhab.,  prettily  situated  on  the  left  hank  of  the  Sure 
(Ger.  5(mer),  at  the  foot  of  the  Herrenberg  and  the  Schiitzenberg. 
It  contains  two  churches,  the  older  of  which  dates  from  the  9th  cent. ; 
the  Church  of  St.  Laurence ,  an  imposing  modern  building  in  the 
Romanesque  style,  possesses  a  Pieta  by  Achtermann.  Since  the  de- 
molition of  the  old  town-walls  the  town  has  been  surrounded  by 
broad  boulevards,  planted  with  trees. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  hence  to  the  Hart,  near  Gilsdorf,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Sure,  with  the  ruins  of  a  Celtic  dolmen.  In  the  vicinity 
are  the  pretty  waterfalls  of  the  Sasselhach.  —  To  the  N.  of  Diekirch  a 
road  leads  via  the  Herrenberg  and  Bastendorf  to  the  ruin  of  (4  M.)  Bran- 
denburg (keys  at  the  sexton's),  rising  from  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Blees. 
To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  Roman  relief.  The  return-journey  is 
made  past  the  quaint  estate  of  Kippenhof,  on  the  Hosingen  road. 

Feom  Diekirch  to  Viaxden,  8^  2  M.,  steam-tramway  in  47  min,,  via 
Bleesbruck,  Tandel.  and  Beitel,  in  the  Our  valley,  —  Vianden,  see  p.  240. 

The  line  proceeds  through  the  broad  valley  of  the  Sure,  flanked 
with  imposing  heights.  Numerous  sandstone-quarries  are  passed. 
—  241/2  M.  Bettendorf,  with  a  chateau;  the  old  church-tower  rests 
on  a  Roman  substructure  containing  a  few  sculptured  stones.  Old 
bridge  over  the  Sure.  In  the  vicinity,  to  the  left,  is  Moestroff,  once 
a  fortified  place,  containing  a  castle  long  inhabited  by  General  Cle- 


240   Route  33.  ECHTERNACH. 

ment-Thomas,  who  was  shot  by  the  Communists  in  Paris  in  1871. 

—  271/2  M.  Reisdorf  (lieckiuger's  Inn,  plain),  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Welsse  Erenz  and  the  Sure.  —  30  M.  Wallendorf 
(Dimmer,  plain),  beautifully  situated  on  the  left  (Prussian)  bank 
of  the  Sure,  which  is  crossed  at  this  point  by  an  old  bridge.  In  the 
neighbourhood  is  the  Castellberg^  a  Roman  camp  with  ditches. 

Wallendorf  is  the  usual  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  Valley  of  the 
Our.  The  clear  stream  of  the  Our,  which  forms  for  some  distance  the 
boundary  between  Luxembourg  and  Prussia,  abounds  in  salmon  and 
other  fish.  A  good  road  leads  along  the  left  bank,  via  Ammeldingen  and 
Geniiiigen,  to  Roth,  with  a  well-preserved  Templars'  Lodge.  The  castle 
and  old  church  are  situated  on  a  rock  rising  from  the  Our.  From  Roth  a 
path  leads  upwards  through  a  llr  wood  to  join  the  high-road  descending  from 
Obersgegen.  From  the  top  of  the  ascent  we  obtain  a  line  view  of  the  town  and 
castle  of  (7  M.)  Vianden  {'IMtel  de  Luxembourg,  on  the  left  bank-,  "Hdtel  des 
Etvangers,  'pens.'  5  fr.).  The  Castle,  one  of  the  most  imposing  stronghold.s 
in  the  country,  escaped  destruction  during  the  wars  of  Louis  XIV.,  but  has 
been  permitted  to  fall  into  decay  since  1820.  The  'Chapel,  an  elegant 
decagonal  building  in  the  Transition  style,  was  restored  in  1849.  Other 
parts  of  interest  are  the  so-called  Nassaubau,  the  Armoury,  the  Byzantine 
Hall,  the  Hall  of  the  Knights,  and  the  Banqueting  Hall,  the  last  with  a 
fine  chimney-piece  (fee  to  the  custodian).  A  tine  view  of  the  castle  may 
be  obtained  from  the  Belvedere,  situated  higher  up,  or  from  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river,  at  a  point  somewhat  below  the  picturesque  old  bridge. 
Affixed  to  a  house  in  the  vicinity  is  a  memorial-tablet  to  Victor  Hugo, 
who  spent  a  long  period  of  exile  here.  —  From  the  foot  of  the  castle  of 
Vianden  the  road  leads  along  the  right  bank  into  another  narrow  and 
picturesque  valley,  passing  the  church  of  St.  Rochus.  To  the  left,  on  a 
rocky  peak,  we  see  the  pilgrimage-chapel  of  Bildchen,  the  way  to  which 
diverges  near  the  entrance  to  the  castle  of  Vianden-,  it  commands  a  fine 
view.  We  next  reach  the  village  of  Bivels.  charmingly  situated  within  a 
wide  bend  of  the  Our;  on  a  steep  slope  at  the  entrance  of  a  valley  to  the 
right  are  the  ruins  of  Falkensteiii,  and  farther  up  the  valley  (IV2  hr.).  at 
tbe  top  of  a  sheer  precipice  of  rock,  the  ruins  of  the  Stolzenbuvg  (Inn,  in 
the  village).  The  new  road  then  leads  past  Gemiind,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Irres  with  the  Our,  to  Eisenbach  (Weyland's  Inn),  which  lies  in  a 
wild  and  rugged  valley.  At  Rodevshausen  we  join  the  road  from  Hosingen, 
over  the  new  bridge  (view),  to  the  Prussian  town  of  Dasburg  (accommo- 
dation at  Binsfeld's,  the  brewer  and  at  Ballmann's),  with  a  ruined  castle 
and  lofty  tower.  More  comfortable  night-quarters  may  be  had  at  the  Ildtel 
Hippert  "in  Hosingen  (p.  234).  —  The  wild  but  monotonous  upper  valley  of 
the  Our  is  diflicult  of  access,  especially  in  wet  weather.  It  is  therefore 
preferable  to  follow  the  road  via  Dahnen  (hence  with  guide  or  by  the 
detour  via  Sevenich)  and  the  Wehrlmsch  to  Ouren  (Dairomont's  Inn),  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Our,  amid  imposing  rock-scenery. 
The  village-church  contains  a  St.  Joseph  with  the  Child  Jesus,  painted 
by  Rubens  for  the  barons  of  Giltingen.  From  Ouren  the  road  ascends, 
passing  the  Luxembourg  villages  of  Weisswampach,  Holler,  and  Bins/eld, 
with  an  interesting  chapel,  to  Trois-Vierges  (p.  216).  The  nearest  railway- 
station  is  Burgrcnland  (p.  216). 

Beyond  Wallendorf,  before  reaching  which  the  Sure  makes  a 
sudden  bend,  the  valley  contracts.  The  formation  of  the  rocks  here 
is  very  fantastic  (interesting  walk  to  Echternach.)  From  the  station 
JDillinyen  we  may  reach  Befort  (p.  236)  through  the  Miihlbachthal. 
From  the  station  Grundhof-Xeumuhle  (p.  236)  we  see  to  the  right  the 
huge  rocks  in  the  valley  of  the  Schirarze  Erenz;  in  the  neighbourhood  is 
the  large  St.  Johannishohle,  an  almost  inaccessible  sandstone-cavern. 

—  34M.  Bollendorf.   The  pretty  village  of  this  name  (Hauer's  Inn, 


ECHTERNACH.  33.  Route.     241 

pens,  from  3^  2  in.")  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sure,  on  the  site  of 
the  Roman  Villa  Bollana  (*Hotel-Pension  Barreau).  ^t  was  formerly 
the  country-seat  of  the  Abbots  of  Echternach,  and  of  late  years  has 
been  much  frequented  as  a  summer-resort.  Traces  of  the  Roman 
occupation  still  exist  in  the  shape  of  three  bridge-piers ,  visible 
only  at  very  low  water,  a  little  above  the  village,  and  the  'AraDia- 
nae\  or  Diana- Altar ^  in  the  Niederburg  wood,  about  1  M.  from 
the  village,  in  the  direction  of  the  iron-works  of  Weilerbach.  The 
altar,  which  is  13  ft.  high,  bears  the  following  inscription  :  Deab. 
DiANAE.  Q.  PosTVMivs.  PoTEXS.  V.  S.;  the  reliefs  are  now  scarcely 
recognisable.  A  stone  dedicated  to  Mercury,  in  the  hotel-garden, 
is  in  better  preservation. 

The  neiyilibourhood  abounds  in  charming  points  for  excursions,  among 
which  may  be  mentioned  the  so-called  Schwei/ustdlle  or  Schweigestelle  (with 
a  Eoman  inscription)  near  the  Schenkiceiler  Elause;  to  the  E.,  Ferschweilev 
with  the  Wikingerburg,  said  to  be  a  Xorman  fortress  i  to  the  S.E.,  the 
rocks  of  £rnzerho/whh  the  Liborius-Klause,  cut  out  of  the  rock  (view); 
in  the  Priimthal,  the  village  of  Priim  zur  Ley.,  opposite  the  ruins  of  a 
Templars'  lodge.  —  Herr  Barreau  affords  information  as  to  visiting  these 
points. 

SSi/o^^^-  Echternach  (Cer/*,  also  'pension';  Oberhoffer ;  Restaur. 
Niesen^  at  the  station),  a  small  town  (4200  inhab,),  with  a  well-pre- 
served Benedictine  abbey,  which  was  originally  founded  in  698  and 
maintained  its  independence  down  to  1601.  The  abbey-church  of 
St.  Willibrord  is  a  Romanesque  edifice  of  1017-37,  skilfully  re- 
stored since  1861.  The  walls  of  the  nave  are  supported  alternately 
by  pillars  and  columns,  as  in  St.  Michael's  at  Hildesheim  and  other 
churches  of  Lower  Saxony.  The  proportions  of  the  interior  are  very 
light  and  elegant  though  the  colouring  is  sombre.  The  crypt  is 
interesting.  The  old  Rathhaus  is  still  known  as  the  Dingstuhl  (comp. 
the  Scandinavian  'Thing',  i.e.  council).  Strangers  are  admitted  on 
application  to  the  Casino  Garden,  on  the  Sure,  laid  out  in  the  taste 
of  the  18th  century.  —  Boat-building  is  actively  carried  on  in  the 
adjacent  Echternacherhriick. 

Echternach  is  noted  for  the  singular 'Dancing  Procession',  which  takes 
place  every  Whit-Tuesday  and  is  participated  in  by  12-15,000  persons  from 
the  country  round.  The  procession  marches  from  the  bridge  over  the 
Sure  to  the  old  parish  church  which  contains  the  relics  of  St.  Willibrord 
(d.  139),  and  it  is  said  to  have  been  originally  undertaken  in  the  8th  cent, 
to  obtain  the  saints  aid  against  a  kind"  of  St.  Vitus's  dance  that  had  at- 
tacked the  cattle  of  the  neighbourhood.  —  Picturesque  walk  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Sure,  with  view  of  the  town  and  its  pretty  environs. 

Below  Echternach  the  scenery  of  the  Sure  valley  is  graceful 
rather  than  grand,  with  villages  nestling  among  vineyards.  —  42  M. 
Rosport ;  45  M.  Born.  Adjacent  is  the  village  of  Hinkel.  with  the 
much-frequented  Girster-Klause.  —  52  M.  Wa.sser'billig  {Reinhard's 
Inn,  unpretending),  the  Bilacus  of  the  Romans,  with  an  old  and 
very  narrow  bridge  (15th  cent.),  is  situated  on  the  Sure,  just  above 
its  confluence  with  the  Moselle.  —  About  1  M.  higher  up,  on  the 
left  bank,  is  the  old  provostry  of  Langsur.  —  Railway  to  Luxem- 
bourg and  Treves,  see  p.  242. 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  16 


242 

34.  From  Luxembourg  to  Treves. 

32  M.  Railway  (Prussian  Government  Railway)  in  1V3-2  hrs.  (fares 
4  m.  30,  3  m.,  1  m.  90  pf.)- 

The  railway  to  Treves  crosses  the  huge  viaduct  over  the  Pulver- 
miihlthal  {216  yds.  long  and  100  ft.  high),  mentioned  at  p.  2^39, 
and  at  (71/2  M.)  Oetringen  enters  the  valley  of  the  Sire.  At  the  foot 
of  a  wooded  hill  to  the  left  lies  the  chateau  of  Schrassig,  vnih  the 
ruined  Heidenbau.  On  the  right  is  Schiittringen,  with  a  chateau. 
About  41/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  (I272  M.)  Eoodt  lies  Burglinster,  with 
a  chateau  of  the  16th  cent,  and  an  old  cliapel.  At  Altlinster,  II/4M. 
farther  on,  is  a  mutilated  Celtic  monument  cut  out  of  the  rock,  po- 
pularly known  as  De  Man  an  de  Frau  op  der  Lei.  The  line  now 
runs  on  the  right  hank  of  the  Sire.  At  (I6V2  M.)  Wecker  the  cul- 
ture of  the  vine  begins.  The  train  crosses  the  Sire  four  times,  and 
at  (21  M.)  Mertert  (Petry)  enters  the  valley  of  the  Moselle.  Beyond 
(^2272  M- )  Wasserbillig  (p.  241),  at  the  junction  of  the  Sure  and 
Moselle,  the  train  enters  Prussia.  —  2472  ^1*  ^9^^^  where  the  *Co- 
lumn  of  Igel,  one  of  the  finest  Roman  monuments  on  this  side  of 
the  Alps,  75  ft.  high,  is  visible  from  the  train.  We  cross  the 
Moselle  to  [30  M.)  Karthaus^  junction  for  the  lines  to  Thionville 
(Ger.  Diedenhofen)  and  to  Saarhriicken. 

32  M.  Treves  (Hotel  de  Treves;  Maison  Rouge;  Luxemhurger 
Hof;  Stadt  Venedig;  Restaurant  zum  Stern)^  charmingly  situated  on 
the  Moselle,  and  interesting  on  account  of  its  Koman  and  other  an- 
tiquities, see  Baedeker's  Rhine. 


HOLLAND. 

[Prelimhiary  Information,  see  p.  xxi.] 


35.  From  Flushing  to  Breda. 

61  M.  Railwat  in  l^/i-S  hrs.  (fares  5.  4,  2'/2  U.)- 

The  Fldshing  Route,  opened  in  1875,  has  become  one  of  the  most 
popular  ways  of  reaching  the  Continent  from  England.  Railway  from  Lon- 
don (Victoria,  Holborn  Viaduct,  or  Ludgate  Hill  Station)  to  Queenborough 
in  1^/4  hr.;  steamer  thence  to  Flushing  in  8-9  hours.  The  steamers  are  large 
and  comfortable.  Through-tickets  are  issued  on  this  route  to  all  the  large 
towns  in  Holland,  Belgium,  Germany,  etc.  Return-tickets  are  available 
for  30  days. 

ilushing.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Albion,  at  the  station,  R.,  L.,  &  A 
2fl.,.  B.  60  c.,  dcj.  l'/4,  D.  2,  pens,  for  a  stay  of  some  time  5  11.;  Hotel- 
Restadr,  het  Godden  Lam,  at  the  station,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  do 
Commerce,  in  the  town,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  2,  omn.  V^^-i  H<"iTEL  Goes,  R., 
L.,  &  A.  11/2  fl.,  B.  60  c,  D.  1  fl.  60,  omn.  60  c.  —  Grand  Hotel  des  Bains, 
about  1  M.  from  the  town,  a  summer-resort  for  sea-bathing. 

Flushing,  Dutch  Vlissingen,  a  seaport  witli  11,000  inhab.,  once 
strongly  fortified,  is  situated  on  the  S.  coast  of  the  island  of  Wal- 
cheren,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Schelde,  which  is  here  nearly  3M.  broad. 
The  quays  and  docks,  near  the  railway-station,  were  much  extended 
in  1867-72 ;  a  small  steamer,  the  'Pennybootje',  plies  between  the 
town  and  the  harbour-station,  from  which  only  express  trains  start. 
A  British  vice-consul  and  a  United  States  consular  agent  reside  at 
Flushing. 

After  the  Gueux  had  taken  Briel,  Flushing  was  the  first  Dutch 
town  which  raised  the  standard  of  liberty  (in  1572).  Admiral  de 
Ruyter ,  the  greatest  naval  hero  of  the  Dutch  ,  was  born  here  in 
1607  (d.  1676).  He  was  the  son  of  a  rope-maker,  but  his  mother, 
whose  name  he  assumed,  was  of  noble  origin.  His  greatest  exploit 
was  the  ascent  of  the  Thames  with  his  fleet  in  1667,  when  he  de- 
molished fortifications  and  vessels  of  war,  and  threw  London  into 
the  utmost  consternation.  A  few  weeks  afterwards,  however,  peace 
was  declared  at  Breda,  and  the  achievements  of  the  Admiral  were 
thus  terminated.  A  monument  was  erected  to  his  memory  in  1841 
near  the  harbour.  Monuments  to  the  poet  Jacob  Bellamy  (1757- 
86),  a  native  of  Flushing,  and  to  the  Dutch  poetesses  El.  Wolff- 
Becker  and  Agnes  Deken  (d.  1804),  have  also  been  erected  here. 
The  Church  of  St.  James  dates  from  the  15th  century.  The  Hotel 
de  Ville  contains  a  collection  of  local  antiquities.  A  good  view  of 
the  harbour  and  the  sea  is  obtained  from  the  embankment  in  the 

16* 


244  '_Route  35.  MIDDELBURG.  From  Flushing 

Noordzee-Boulevard.  Flushing  is  a  favourite  sea-bathing  resort, 
and  attracts  visitors  even  from  Germany.  Pretty  view  of  the  dunes 
from  beliind  the  Hotel  des  Bains  (see  above). 

In  1559  Philip  II.  embarked  at  Flushing,  never  again  to  return  to 
the  Netherlands.  He  is  said  to  have  been  accompanied  thus  far  by 
Prince  William  of  Orange,  and  to  have  reproached  him  with  having 
caused  the  failure  of  his  plans.  The  prince  pleaded  that  he  had  acted 
in  accordance  with  the  wishes  of  the  States,  to  which  the  disappointed 
monarch  vehemently  replied:  '■No  lot  Estados,  ma  vos,  vosT  —  Flushing 
was  also  a  place  of  some  importance  during  the  Is'apoleonic  wars.  It  was 
bombarded  and  taken  by  the  English  fleet  under  Lord  Chatham  in  1809, 
on  which  occasion  upwards  of  a  hundred  houses,  the  handsome  town-hall, 
and  two  churches,  were  destroyed.  This  was  the  sole  and  useless  result 
of  the  English  expedition  to  the  island  of  Walcheren,  undertaken  by  one 
of  the  finest  British  fleets  ever  equipped,  the  object  of  which  was  the 
capture  of  Antwerp. 

From  Flushing  a  steamer  plies  several  times  daily  to  Tenieuzen 
ip.  10),  in  IV4  hr.     Steam  Tramway  to  Bliddelburg,  see  p.  245. 

Opposite  Flushing  (steamer  5  times  a  day),  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Schelde,  lies  the  village  of  Breskens  (Hotel  du  Commerce), 
connected  by  steam-tramway  with  Sluis  (p.  9)  and  Maldeghem  on 
the  Bruges- Ghent  line  (p.  10). 

4  M.  Middelburg  {* Hotel  Nieuwe  Doelen ;  Hotel  de  Abdy, 
Hotel  de  Flandre,  in  both,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  F.  I3/4-2V2,  de'j.  1,  D.  I3/4, 
omn.  V2fl-  5  carr.  to  Domburg  6,  Flushing  3,  Westcapelle  9fl.),  the 
capital  of  the  Province  of  Zeeland,  with  16,100  inhab.,  was  the 
birthplace  of  Zach.  Janssen  and  Hans  Lippershey,  the  inventors  of 
the  telescope  (about  1610).  The  town  is  connected  with  Flushing 
and  Veere  by  means  of  a  canal,  on  which  a  steamer  plies.  The 
large  Prins  Hendriks  Dok  was  opened  in  1876.  The  oldest  and 
most  central  parts  of  the  town  are  the  streets  known  as  the  'Korte' 
and  the  'Lange  Burgt'.  The  rustic  population  of  the  neighbour- 
hood is  best  seen  on  market-day  (Thurs.)  or  during  the  fair  (Sept.). 

In  the  market-place  rises  the  handsome  late-Gothic  Toavn  Hall, 
erected  in  the  16th  cent,  by  one  of  the  Keldermans ,  an  artist- 
family  of  Malines;  the  tower,  which  is  180  ft.  high,  dates  from 
1507-13.  The  florid  facade  (1512-13)  is  adorned  with  25  statues 
of  counts  and  countesses  of  Zeeland  and  Holland. 

Interior.  The  old  'Viersciiaak'',  or  court-room,  on  the  first  floor,  is 
lined  with  fine  panelling  of  the  16th  century.  —  The  Munilipal  Mdseum 
OOudheidskamer'')  contains  portraits  of  Jan  and  Covnelis  Everlsen^  two 
l)utch  naval  heroes,  who  fell  fighting  against  the  English  in  1666, 
and  of  other  members  of  the  same  family;  also  tankards  and  banners  of 
the  old  guilds,  carvings,  documents,  pictures,  etc.  The  wooden  Renaissance 
seats  of  the  magistrates  are  also  preserA'ed  here;  and  among  the  documents 
is  a  charter  granted  to  Middelburg  in  1253,  by  the  German  king  William 
of  Holland,  the  oldest  existing  deed  in  the  Dutch  language.  —  The  Gothic 
Meal  Market^  under  the  town-hall,  contains  large  paintings  of  oxen  adorned 
with  garlands. 

The  Zeeuwsch  Genootschapder  Wetenschappen  (adm.  daily  except 
Sat.  10-1  and  3  till  dusk;  Sun.  after  12  noon)  possesses  an  in- 
teresting collection  of  Roman  and  other  antiquities ;  a  portrait  of 
De  Ruyter  by  Ferd.  Bol,  and  various  reminiscences  of  the  great 


to  Breda.  GOES.  35.  Route.     245 

admiral ;  tlie  earliest  telescopes,  made  ty  Zach.  Janssen  and  Hans 
Lippershey  (see  p.  '244);  Zeeland  coins  ;  maps,  plans,  and  drawings 
relating  to  Zeeland  (_'Zeelandia  illustrata'} ;  tlie  finely-carved  pan- 
elling and  furniture  of  a  room  in  an  ancient  Zeeland  house ;  and 
a  complete  collection  of  tlie  fauna  and  flora  of  Zeeland. 

The  Abdy  (abbey ;  adni.  daily  10-12  and  2-5),  built  in  the  12th, 
14th,  and  15th  cent.,  and  restored  after  a  conflagration  in  1492, 
was  in  1505  the  scene  of  a  brilliant  meeting  of  the  knights  of  the 
Golden  Fleece,  and  in  1559  was  made  the  seat  of  a  bishop  by  Pope 
Pius  IV.  The  interior  is  now  occupied  by  the  Provincial  Council. 
The  large  hall  contains'  some  fine  tapestry  representing  the  battles 
between  the  maritime  provinces  and  the  Spaniards,  executed  by 
Frani.ois  Spieriuck  at  Delft  and  by  Jan  de  Maecht  at  Middelburg  at 
the  end  of  the  16th  century.  —  The  Nieuwe  Kerk,  once  the  abbey- 
church,  contains  the  monuments  of  Jan  and  Cornells  Evertsen  (see 
p.  244),  that  of  William  of  Holland  (d.  1256) ,  who  was  elected 
German  emperor  in  1250,  and  that  of  his  brother  Floris  (d.  1258; 
erected  in  1820);  the  tower  is  280  ft,  high.  —  The  town  possesses 
a  few  picturesque  old  houses,  such  as  'De  Steenrots',  of  1590,  and 
'De  Goudeu  Zon',  of  1635;  and  in  the  Langedelft  is  a  restored 
timber  house  of  the  16th  century. 

Middelburg  is  also  connected  with  Flushing  by  a  Steam  Tramway, 
which  runs  every  !•  2-2  hrs.,  in  1/2  l»r,  (fares  25,  '20  c),  passing  the  village 
of  Souburg,  where  Charles  V.  abdicated  in  1556.  A  statue  has  been  er- 
ected here  to  Philip  van  Marnix  fd.  1598;  p.  92),  the  famous  author  and 
statesman,  who  was  lord  of  the  manor. 

From  Middelburg  an  omnibus  (1  fl.:  one-horse  carr.  5,  two-horse 
6  fl.)  runs  twice  daily  in  li/o  hr.  to  (IOV2  M.)  Dombnrg  (Bad-Hdtel^  pens. 
8-10  fl.;  Schuttershof,  pens.  8-9  fl.;  Villa  Marina,  pens.  T 1/2-9 '/i  fl-),  a  small 
bathing-place,  frequented  by  Germans,  Dutchmen,  and  Belgians.  Pleasant 
walks  in  the  neighbourhood.  —  About  5  M.  from  Domburg  lies  Wesl- 
capelle,  with  extensive  dykes  (p.  9)  and  a  lighthouse. 

On  the  N.  coast  of  the  island  of  Walcheren,  31/2  M.  from  Middelburg, 
lies  the  ancient  and  decayed  town  of  Veere  (Hotel  Roland)^  with  a  fine 
Gothic  church  (partly  de.stroyed),  a  Gothic  baptistery,  and  numerous  quaint 
old  houses.  On  the'  facade  of  the  interesting  town-hall  are  statuettes  of 
lords  of  Veere  and  their  wives ;  in  the  interior  are  some  valuable  an- 
tiquities, including  the  enamelled  and  chased  'Goblet  of  Maximilian'  (16th 
cent.).  A  drive  to  Veere,  Domburg,  and  Westcapelle  makes  a  pleasant 
excursion  for  one  day  from  Middelburg. 

61/2  M.  Arnemuiden ;  the  ancient  harbour  is  now  under  tillage. 
The  train  crosses  Het  Sloe,  an  arm  of  the  Schelde,  by  an  embank- 
ment connecting  the  islands  of  Zuid-Beveland  and  Walcheren. 
12'  '2  M.  ^S  Heer  -  Arendskerke.  The  line  now  traverses  a  fertile 
district,  where  the  peasants  wear  an  interesting  national  costume. 
Near  Goes  is  the  Wilhelmina  Polder,  upwards  of  4000  acres  in  extent. 

151/2  M.  Goes  (Hotel  Zoutkeet),  or  ter  Goes,  the  capital  (6500 
inhab.)  of  the  island  of  Zuid  Beveland,  with  valuable  archives, 
and  an  ancient  chateau  of  Countess  Jacqueline  of  Bavaria,  called 
the  Oosteinde,  now  an  inn.  The  train  commands  a  view  of  the 
lofty  Gothic  Church,  consecrated  in  1422,  with  a  tower  over  the 
centre  of  the  transept.    The  Court  Room  in  the  Hotel  de  Ville  is 


246     Route  36.  ROTTERDAM. 

fitted  up  in  the  Louis  XV.  style,  and  contains  paintings  in  grisaille 
by  J.  Geeraerts. 

19  M.  Biezelinge ;  21  M.  Vlake,  near  which  is  Kapelle,  with 
an  interesting  church;  22^/2  M.  Kruiningen,  where  the  Zuid- 
Beveland  Canal  is  crossed;  27  M.  Krahbendyke  ;  28'/2  M-  RiUand- 
Bath.  To  the  right  rises  Fort  Bath  ('p.  174).  The  train  now  quits 
the  province  of  Zeeland  (p.  173),  and  crosses  the  Kreekerak  (p.  174). 
an  arm  of  the  Sehelde  now  filled  up.  34^/2  M.  Woensdrecht. 

331/2  M.  Bergen  op  Zoom  (Hof  van  Holland ;  Prins  vanLuyk), 
the  capital  (10,300inhab.)  of  a  province  which  came  into  possession 
of  the  Elector  Palatine  by  marriage  in  1722,  but  reverted  to  Holland 
in  1801.  The  strong  fortifications,  constructed  by  Coehorn  (d.  1704), 
the  famous  Dutch  general  of  engineers,  were  bombarded  and  half- 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1747,  and  were  dismantled  in  1867. 
The  Stadhuis  contains  several  portraits  of  Margraves  of  the  province, 
and  a  fine  chimney-piece  of  about  1492  (traces  of  Renaissance  in- 
fluence), formerly  preserved  in  the  margraves'  palace,  which  is  now 
used  as  barracks.  The  Church  was  enlarged  in  the  15th  cent.,  but 
never  completed;  it  fell  in  1747  and  now  possesses  two  transepts, 
but  no  choir.  Several  Renaissance  tombs  have  been  preserved.  — 
A  steam-tramway  plies  from  Bergen  to  Tholen  (p.  174)  in  35  mi- 
nutes; the  church  contains  several  tombs. 

42  M.  Wouw.  — 46Y2  M.  Roosendaal,  the  junction  for  the 
lines  to  Rotterdam  and  Antwerp  (R.  16).  —  55  M.  Etten-Leur. 

61  M.  Breda,  see  p.  375. 

36.  Rotterdam. 

From  London  to  Rotterdam  via  Hartcich  in  13-14  hrs.  (sea-passage 
3-9  hrs.);  fares  26«.,  15s.;  return-tickets,  available  for  two  months,  2i.,  1/.  45. 
Tickets  issued  at  Liverpool  Street  Station,  and  at  the  chief  stations  of  the 
Great  Eastern  Railway  at  the  same  fares.  Passengers  may  also  book  from 
any  station  on  the  G.E.R.  to  Rotterdam  at  the  above  fares,  on  giving 
24  hrs.  notice  to  the  station-master.  Steamer  daily  in  summer,  Sundays 
excepted.  Through-tickets  to  the  principal  towns  of  Belgium,  Holland, 
and  the  Rhineland  are  also  issued  by  this    company. 

The  steamers  of  the  Netherlands  Steamboat  Co.  ply  thrice  weekly 
between  London  and  Rotterdam.  These  vessels  run  in  connection  with 
the  Rhine-steamers  of  the  Netherlands  Co.,  and  tickets  at  very  moderate 
fares  may  be  procured  from  London  to  any  station  on  the  Rhine  as  far 
as  Mannheim. 

From  Hull  to  Rotterdam  3-4  times  weekly,  in  20  hrs.  (fare  20s.).  — 
From  Leith  to  Rotterdam,  twice  weekly  (fare  2^  5s.).  —  Steamboats  also 
ply  from  Grimsby,  Newcastle,  Liverpool,  Dublin,  Belfast,  etc.,  to  Rotterdam. 

Railway  Stations  at  Rotterdam.  1.  The  combined  station  outside  the 
Delftsche  Poort  (Centraal-station,  PI.  B,  1)  of  the  Staatsspoorweg  and  the 
Hollandsch  Spoorweg,  for  the  Hague,  Leyden,  Haarlem,  and  Amsterdam 
to  the  N.,  and  Dordrecht,  Venlo,  and  Antwerp  to  the  S.,  with  another 
stopping-place,  used  by  most  travellers,  at  the  Exchange  (Station  Beurs, 
PI.  E,3j,  near  the  centre  of  the  town.  —  2.  Rhyn  Spoorweg  Station  (PI.  G, 
3),  for  Gouda,  Utrecht  (Amsterdam),  Arnhem,  and  Germany. 

Hotels.  Hotel  de  Maas,  on  the  Boompjes  on  the  Maas,  with  restau- 
rant, R.,  L.,  <fe  A.  from  2V2,   B.  3/4,   D.  2V2fl.;    Victoria  Hotel  (PI.  b; 


steamboats.  ROTTERDAM.  36.  Route.   247 

D,  5),  in  the  Willemsplein,  with  a  view  of  the  harbour,  R.,  L.,  &  A. 
1V2-3,  B.  3/4,  D.2V2fl.;  Hotel  Weimar  (PI.  i;  F,  3),  Spaanache  Kade,  near 
the  Maas,  with  view,  E.  V/-2-S  fl.,  L.  20,  A.  25,  B.  60c.,  D.  2  11.,  well 
spoken  of;  Hotel  Letgeaaf  (PI.  k;  C,  5),  Westplein,  near  the  park,  R., 
L.,  &  A.  1-3  fl.,  B.  60  c,  D.  13/4  fl.,  well  spoken  of;  Grand  Hotel  Coomans, 
Hoofdsteg  12  (PI.  E,  2),  with  a  cafe-restaurant,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  13/4-21,2.  D. 
IV-ifl.,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  de  France  (PI.  e;  E,  2),  Hoogstraat  201, 
R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  2-5,  dej.  1,  D.  UU  fl.;  Hotel  St.  Lucas  (PI.  f;  D.  2), 
Hoogstraat  327,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  174-21/4,  B.  3/4,  dej.  I1/2,  D.  2  fl. :  Hutel  des 
Pats-Bas,  in  the  Korte  Hoogstraat  (PI.  D,  2),  R.  <fe  L.  from  I1/2,  B.  1/2, 
D.  13/4  fl.,  well  spoken  of;  Zuid-Hollaxdsch  Hotel,  Korte  Hoogstraat  27, 
with  a  frequented  cafc'-re.=taurant  ;''Gr.  Hotel  du  Passage  (PI-  c;  I),2),  Korte 
Hoogstraat,  with  a  caf^-restaurant.  —  The  hotels  of  Rotterdam  are  below 
the  standard  of  those  of  most  towns  of  the  same  size. 

Cafes  and  Restaurants.  ''Siroonibevg  (PI.  E,  2),  Westnieuwland  26, 
good  cuisine;  Ztdd  HoUand.^ch  Kotfiehuis,  Korte  Hoogstraat  (PI.  I),  2,  3); 
Deinum  (PI.  c,  2"),  Coolsingel  24;  Grand  Cafi  Coomans,  Hoofdsteg  12;  Cafi 
du  Passage^  with  restaurant,  in  the  Arcade  (see  above) ;  Poolsche  Koffie- 
huis  (PI.  E,  3),  Zuidblaak2:  Cafi-Ilestaurani  Fritschi/,  Geldersche  Kade  30 
(PI.  E,  3) ;  Boneski  (PI.  D,  1),  Hofplein  14.  —  Restaurant  Fritschy,  Maas-Kade, 
opposite  the  Willems-Brug  (p.  255).  —  Beer  at  the  'Ldwenbi'du ,  Hoog- 
straat 3;J3.  —  Wine  at  the  Bodega^  Kolk-Kade. 

Cabs.  For  1-2  pers.  60  c.  per  drive,  for  3-4  pers.  70  c.  ;  per  hour  1  fl. 
20  c,  each  additional  hour  1  fl.  —  From  midnight  till  6  a.m.,  per  drive 
90  c,  per  hr.  I1/2  fl.  —  Each  trxmk  15  c.  —  For  the  drive  from  any  of  the 
railway-stations  into  the  town,  with  luggage,  1  fl.  is  generally  charged. 

Tramways.  The  chief  station  is  the  Beursplein,  between  the  Ex- 
chancre  and  the  Railway  Station  (PI,  E,  3),  whence  all  the  chief  lines 
diverge.  —  Line  to  Kralingen  to  the  E.  of  Rotterdam,  see  p.  175.  —  Steam 
Tramways  ply  to  Delf shaven  (i/2hr.);  to  Schiedam  (Vzhr.);  and  to  Over- 
schie  (20  min.). 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  39;  E,  3),  near  the  Exchange. 

Porters  of  the  Nederlandsche  Maatschappy  tot  Allgemeene  Dienstver- 
richting  (brown  coat  and  kepi),  sm;ill  articles  of  baggage  10  c.  per  V*  lir., 
15  c.  per  I2  hr. ;  trunk  20  c. ;  after  8  p.m.  10  c.  extra. 

Booksellers.  Van  Hengel,  Hoogstraat  385;  H.  A.  Kramers  tt  Son,  Gel- 
dersche Kade  26;  Bazendyk,  Zeevischmarkt  14.  —  Art  Dealers.  Oldemeel, 
Leuvehaven  74. 

Cigars.  Weinthal  d:  Co. ,  Hoogstraat  244.  This  firm  has  branches  in 
all  the  larger  towns  of  Holland. 

Money  Changers.  Several  on  the  Boompjes,  and  near  the  Exchange. 
The  rate  of  exchange  for  foreign  money  is  more  favourable  in  a  large 
commercial  town  like  this  than  at  the  Hague  and  elsewhere. 

Steamboats.  Eight  times  daily  to  Delft  in  lV2hr. ;  once  daily  to  Nymegen 
(p.  370)  in  8-10  hrs.,  to  Arnhem  (p.  357)  in  10  hrs.;  three  or  four  times  to 
Briel  in  2  hrs.;  eight  or  ten  times  to  Dordrecht  (p.  376)  in  lV2hr. ;  twice 
to  Gouda  (p.  354)  in  2V2  hrs. ;  twice  to  Bois-le-Duc  in  6  hrs. ;  once  to 
Middelburg  in  7  hrs.;  to  Antwerp  in  9-10  hrs.  daily  (see  p.  173).  Small 
steamers  ply  at  frequent  intervals  between  the  Park  (p.  254)  and  the 
Rhyn-Spoorweg,  afl'ording  a  good  view  of  the  traffic  on  the  Maas.  Comp. 
the  Officieele  Reisgids  voor  Nederland. 

Theatre.  Schouwhurg.,  Aert  van  Nes-Straat,  at  the  comer  of  the  Lyn- 
haanslaan  fPl.  C,  2),  German  opera  twice  or  thrice  a  week.  —  Place  des 
Pays-Bas,  Kruis-Kade  39,  a  frequented  cafe-concert. 

British  Consul:  Il^nry  Turing.^  Esq.,  Boompjes  76.  —  United  States 
Consul:   Walter  E.  Gardner.  Esq. 

English  Church  (St.  Mary''s).,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Haringvliet;  ser- 
vices at  11  a.m.  and  7  p.m.;  chaplain,  Rev.  J.  Attridge,  M.  .4.,  Glashaven 
22.  —  Scottish  Presbyterian  Church.,  on  the  Schotsche  Dyk ;  services  at 
10.30  a.m.  and  6.30  p. m;  minister.  Rev.  J.  J.  Brown. 

Principal  Attractions:  Monument  of  Erasmus  (p.  248);  Boyman's  Mu- 
seum (p.  249);  the  Boompjes  and  the  bridge  over  the  Maas  (p.  234);  the 
Zoological  Garden  (p.  254);  the  Park  (p.  254). 


248     Route  36.  ROTTERDAM.  Exchange. 

Rotterdam,  with  203,500  inhab.  (74th  Rom.  Cath.,  7000  Jews), 
the  second  commercial  town  in  Holland,  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Maas,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Rotte ,  about  14  M. 
from  the  North  Sea.  The  city  is  intersected  by  numerous  canals,  such 
as  theLeuvehaven,  Oude  Haven,  Nieuwe  Haven,  Scheepmakershaven, 
Wynhaven,  Blaak,  Haringvliet,etc.j  all  deep  enough  for  the  pas- 
sage of  heavily-laden  East  Indiamen.  The  average  rise  of  the  tide 
in  the  Maas  is  4'/2-8  ft.  Communication  between  the  different 
quarters  of  the  town  is  maintained  by  means  of  drawbridges  and 
swing-bridges  (see  p.  xxvi).  —  The  average  number  of  vessels  which 
enter  the  port  is  6000  annually.  The  most  important  cargoes  are 
coffee,  sugar,  tobacco,  rice,  and  spices.  Near  the  harbour  are  large 
ship-building  yards,  tobacco  factories,  sugar  refineries,  and  distil- 
leries, and  also  the  extensive  machine-works  ofFeyenoord(p.  255). 

The  Beurs  Station  or  City  Railway  Station  (PL  E,  3)  lies  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  streets,  and 
is  reached  by  flights  of  steps.  The  Antwerp  and  Amsterdam  lines 
are  connected  with  each  other  by  a  lofty  iron  viaduct,  1  M.  long, 
carried  across  the  town.  The  viaduct,  a  triumph  of  engineering 
skill,  has  a  double  line  of  rails  ,  and  is  supported  by  cast-iron 
piles,  between  every  two  or  three  of  which  stands  one  of  solid 
masonry.    The  average  span  of  the  arches  is  50  ft. 

Opposite  the  railway-station  is  the  Exchange  (PI.  3 ;  E,  3), 
designed  by  Van  der  Werff  and  built  of  sandstone  in  1722,  enclos- 
ing a  spacious  court,  flanked  by  colonnades,  and  covered  with  glass. 
The  exterior  is  of  very  simple  construction.  Business-hour  1  p.m.  — 
The  tower  of  the  Exchange  contains  a  fine  set  of  chimes. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Exchange  is  the  large  Post  and  Telegraph 
Office  (^\.  39;  E,  3).  Farther  on,  in  the  direction  of  Boymans' 
Museum  (p.  249),  at  the  W.  extremity  of  the  busy  Noord-Blaak, 
rises  the  Fish  Market  (PI.  D,  3),  built  in  1882  and  adorned  with 
bronze  reliefs  after  engravings  by  Artus  Quellinus.  —  At  No.  74  in 
the  Leuvehaven,  which  diverges  to  the  S.  farther  on,  is  Oldcnzeel's 
art-emporium  (p.  247),  with  a  permanent  Art- Exhibition  (adm.  25  c), 
in  an  old  patrician  house,  beautifully  adorned  in  the  rococo  style. 

The  Groote  Markt  (PL  D,  E,  2),  the  greater  part  of  which  is 
constructed  on  vaulting  over  a  canal,  is  embellished  with  a  bronze 
statue  of  the  illustrious  Erasmus  of  Rotterdam  (PL  45),  properly 
Gerrit  Gerritsz,  who  was  born  at  Rotterdam  in  1467,  and  died  at 
Bale  in  1536.  The  monument  was  erected  in  1622,  and  bears  long 
Dutch  and  Latin  inscriptions  added  in  1677.  It  is  attributed  to 
Hendrik  de  Keyser. 

To  the  N.  of  the  market  is  the  Hoogstraat,  or  high  street,  one 
of  the  busiest  streets  in  Rotterdam ,  situated  on  an  embankment 
which  was  originally  built  to  protect  the  town  from  inundations. 
The  Wyde  Kerkstraat,  which  leads  hence  to  the  church  of  St.  Law- 
rence,   contains  the  house  in  which  Erasmus  was  born  (No.  3), 


St.  Lawrence.  ROTTERDAM.  36.  Route.     249 

adorned  with  a  small  statue,  and  bearing  the  inscription :  ^Haec 
est  parva  domus,  magnus  qua  natus  Erasmus\ 

The  Church  of  St.  Lawrence  (Groote  Kerk ,  PI.  12;  D,  2),  a 
Gothic  brick  edifice,  consecrated  in  1477,  with  a  choir  of  1487, 
recently  restored ,  will  not  bear  comparison  with  the  magnificent 
Gothic  edifices  of  Belgium  and  Germany. 

Interior.  —  (The  sacristan,  who  is  to  be  found  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  church,  receives  25  c.  from  each  visitor ;  for  the  ascent  of  the  tower 
50  c.  additional  for  one  pers.,  or  75  c.  for  two  persons.)  —  Like  most  Dutch 
churches,  St.  Lawrence  is  disfigured  internally  by  the  wooden  stalls  and 
pews.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the  marble  monuments  of  vice- 
admiral  Wiite  Corneliszoon  de  Witt  (d.  165S),  vice-admiral  Kortenaer  (d. 
1665).  by  Rombout  Verhulst  (1669),  contre-admiral  Van  Brakel  (d.  1690), 
and  other  Dutch  naval  heroes,  bearing  long  Latin  or  old  Dutch  inscrip- 
tions. The  armorial  bearings  in  this,  as  in  almost  all  the  other  churches 
in  Holland,  were  destroyed  by  the  French  republicans.  The  brazen  screen 
which  separates  the  choir  from  the  nave  dates  from  1711-15.  Organ  recital 
every  alternate  Frid.  at  2.30  p.m.  (free);  at  other  times  the  organist  may 
be  engaged  to  play  for  an  hour,  and  to  show  the  internal  mechanism,  for 
a  fee  of  10  fl. 

The  Tower,  210  ft.  in  height  (326  steps),  consisting  of  three  broad  and 
tapering  stories,  rises  from  the  facade  of  the  church.  It  formerly  termi- 
nated in  a  wooden  spire,  which  was  removed  in  1645,  and  replaced  by  a 
flat  roof-,  and  in  1651-55  it  was  disfigured  by  the  construction  of  a  massive 
support,  extending  across  the  entire  facade.  The  view  from  the  summit 
embraces  the  whole  town  with  its  canals  and  lofty  railway-viaduct,  the 
river,  the  canals,  and  other  expanses  of  water  in  the  surrounding  country, 
country-houses,  windmills,  perfectly  straight  avenues,  and  perfectly  flat 
green  pastures  and  fields.  The  towers  of  Briel ,  Schiedam,  Delft,  the 
Hague,  Leyden,  Gouda,  and  Dordrecht  are  all  visible  in  clear  weather. 

A  little  to  the  E.,  in  the  Kaasmarkt,  is  the  Stadhuis,  or  town- 
hall  (PL  40;  E,  2),  a  large  modern  building  with  an  Ionic  portico; 
its  back  looks  towards  the  Hoogstraat.  —  In  the  neighbouring 
NiEuwE  Markt  [PI.  E,  2)  a  handsome  Fountain  adorned  with  sculp- 
tures, commemorating  the  tercentenary  of  the  establishment  of  Dutch 
independence  (1572;  see  p.  xxxi)  in  1872,  was  erected  in  1874. 

To  the  W.  the  Hoogstraat  ends  in  the  Korte  Hoogstraat 
(PI.  D,  2),  which  contains  several  popular  cafe's  (p.  247)  and  the 
Passage,  a  tasteful  arcade  in  the  Renaissance  style,  built  in  1878- 
79  from  the  plans  of  J.  C.  van  Wyk.  The  other  end  of  the  Pas- 
sage is  near  the  Hogendorp's  Plein  (p.  254}. 

*Boyinans'  Miiseum(Pl.  29  ;  D,  3),  a  collection  of  pictures,  chiefly 
by  Dutch  masters,  which  became  the  property  of  the  town  in  1847, 
although  inferior  to  the  galleries  of  the  Hague  and  Amsterdam,  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  original  repository,  the  'Schielandhuis' 
built  by  Jacob  Lois  in  1663,  was  burned  down  in  1864,  and  up- 
wards of  300  pictures,  besides  numerous  drawings  and  engravings, 
were  destroyed;  while  the  163  which  were  saved  were  all  more  or 
less  injured.  The  building  was  re-erected  in  1864-67,  and  the 
collection  has  since  been  extended  by  purchase  and  gift  to  350  pic- 
tures. Admission  5  c.  on  Sundays,  11-4,  and  Wednesdays,  10-4 
o'clock ;  25  c.  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  Fridays,  and  Saturdays, 
10-4  o'clock,  at  other  hours  and  on  Mon.  60  c.    Catalogue  in  Dutch 


250     Route  30.  ROTTERDAM.       Boymans'  Museum. 

50,  in  French  75  cents.  The  names  of  the  painters  are  afflxed  to 
the  frames  of  the  pictures. 

Ground  Flook,  On  the  left  are  three  rooms  containing  Draw- 
ings, of  which  the  Museum  possesses  upwards  of  two  thousand. 
A  few  of  the  finest  (e.g.  Rubens,  Crucifixion)  are  exhibited  under 
glass  on  the  walls;  the  others  are  shown  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays, 
and  Saturdays,  from  10  to  4  o'clock,  for  a  fee  of  25  cents. 

In  the  room  to  the  right  of  the  vestibule:  250.  Pieneman,  King 
William  III. ;  29.  Bisschop,  Prince  Henry  of  the  Netherlands;  P. 
Joselin  de  Jong,  Rochussen  the  painter;  portraits  of  several  burgo- 
masters of  Rotterdam.  —  The  ground-floor  also  contains  the  Archives 
of  the  city  (entrance  in  Boymansstraat)  ;  a  collection  of  books,  en- 
gravings, and  drawings,  relating  to  Rotterdam  and  its  history;  and 
the  City  Library  (50,000  vols.).  For  admission  apply  to  the  li- 
brarian, 11-3  o'clock. 

Upper  Floor.  The  hall  at  the  top  of  the  staircase  contains 
portraits  by  Netscher  (223),  Simon  de  Vos  (356-358),  Barth.  van 
der  Heist  (112,  113),  Mich.  Mierevelt  (191),  etc.,  two  landscapes 
by  Adam  Pynacker  (261,  262),  and  Landscape  with  cattle,  hy  Jacob 
van  Ruysdael  (275).  —  On  the  landing:  71.  Dirk  van  Deelen, 
Castlc-yard. 

Room  A.  No.  216.  Jan  Mytens,  Portrait  of  Grand  Pensionary 
Cats  and  his  cousin  Cornelia  Baars ;  380.  Ad.  Willaerts,  Mouth  of 
the  Maas  at  Briel  (1633);  45,  46.  P.  Brueghel  the  Elder,  Village- 
scenes;  190.  Mich.  Mierevelt  (t^.  257),  Portrait  of  Oldenbarneveld  ; 
197.  N.  Molenaer,  Bleaching-field  ;  96.  H.  Goltzius,  Juno  receiv- 
ing from  Mercury  the  eyes  of  Argus;  73.  J.  C.  Drooch  Sloot,  Peas- 
ants dancing;  30.  G.  C.  Bleeker,  Saul  on  the  road  to  Damascus; 
365.  A.  de  Vries,  Burgomaster  Vroesen  ;  179.  J.  Martsen  the  Younger, 
Cavalry  skirmish  ;  257.  J.  Pool,  Portrait  of  the  artist's  wife,  Rachel 
Ruysch  the  artist;  308.  H.  Saftleven,  Peasant-interior;  305.  Pieter 
van  S  ling  eland ,  Portrait  of  Job.  van  Crombrugge  (1677);  196. 
Jan  M.  Molenaer,  Rustic  merry-making  (1642);  195.  J.  M.  Mo- 
lenaer, Merry  company;  337.  A.  van  de  Venne ,  Prince  Frederick 
Uenry  of  Orange  (1635);  93.  N.  van  Gelder,  Dead  poultry;  No 
number,  C.  Saftleven,  Satirical  allegory  of  the  legal  profession ; 
254.  Egbert  van  der  Poel,  Conflagration  by  night.  Above,  83-86. 
C.  W.  Eversdyck  (of  Goes,  beginning  of  17th  cent.).  Corporation- 
pictures,  of  little  interest,  from  the  town  of  Goes. 

Room  B.  Above  the  door:  409.  Unknown  Master,  Fragment  of 
the  Seven  Works  of  Mercy  (1580).  —  *399.  Unknown  Master  of  the 
16th  cent..  Portrait;  301.  J.  van  Schooreel,  Portrait;  74.  Alb.Dii- 
reri^^),  Portrait  of  Erasmus,  freely  retouched  ;  396.  Unknown  Artii^t, 
Portrait  of  Erasmus.  —  115.  Barth.  van  der  Heist,  Portrait  (1669; 
largely  retouched) ;  56.  Phil,  de  Champaigne,  Portraits  of  two  artists 
(1654);  W.  C.  Heda,  Still-life;  *78.  Gerbrand  van  den  Eeckhout, 
Ruth  andBoaz  ;  Jordaens,  135.  Adoration  of  the  Kings,  136,  Bearing 


Boymans'  Museum.       ROTTERDAM. 


36.  Route.     251 


c 

D 

Principal 
Saloon. 

E 

Modern 

B 

Pictures. 
F 

A 

of  the  Cross;  20.  N.  Berchem,  Cave;  389.  Thomas  Wyck,  Interior, 
with  a  woman  and  children  (the  light  and  shade  are  somewhat  exag- 
gerated but  otherwise  the  work  is 
ably  executed) ;  Pieter  Claesz,  Still- 
life  ;  323.  A.  van  den  Tempel,  Por- 
traits (1671);  *182.  Jan  van  der 
Meet  the  Elder  of  Haarlem,  Yiew  of 
the  village  of  Noordwyk ;  202.  Paul 
Moreelse,  Vertumnus  and  Pomona. 
—  124.  G.Honthorst,  Soldier  light- 
ing his  pipe;  No  number,  Arent 
Arentsz,  Rhenish  landscape ;  360. 
S.  Francken,  Horsemen  plundering 
a  village  ;  75.  A.  van  Dyck  (?),  Group 
of  saints,  a  sketch  ;  158.  Pieter  Last- 
man  (Rembrandt's  teacher),  Flight 
into  Egypt  (1608),  probably  painted 
in  Italy,  where  the  artist  attached  himself  to  Elshaimer;  424.  Al- 
hano  (more  probably  Flemish  School),  Children  dancing;  76.  A. 
van  Dyck  (?),  Sketch  for  the  large  portrait-group  of  Charles  I.  and 
his  family  at  Windsor,  in  a  remarkably  easy  and  spirited  style ; 
above,  306.  F.  Snyders,  Boar-hunt;  359.  F.  Francken,  Dancers; 
332.  Esaias  van  de  Velde^  Skirmish  by  night;  353.  J.  J.  van  Vliet 
(Rembrandt?),  Old  man;  S2.Allart  van  Everdingen,  Cascade;  252. 
D.  van  der  Plaes,  Admiral  Tromp ;  No  number,  M.  J.  van  Mierevelt^ 
Family  group ;  105.  J.  van  der  Hagen.  Landscape  with  the  Good 
Samaritan;  132,  133.  F.  de  Hulst,  Landscapes;  No  number,  H.  G. 
Pot,  Love  scene ;  70.  D.  van  Deelen,  Musical  party ;  57.  J.  de  Cool, 
Regent-piece  from  Rotterdam;  317.  A.  Stork,  Dutch  harbour  in 
winter;  345.  Hend.  Verschuringh,  Blacksmith;  d^.  Jan  Wouver- 
man,  Landscape;  387.  Ph.  Wouverman ,  Cavalier;  116.  W.  de 
Heusch,  Italian  landscape;  *35.  F.Bol,  Portrait;  324.  Tilborgh, 
Flemish  family-group.  —  *333,  Esaias  van  de  Velde,  Man  on  horse- 
back (13  in.  in  height). 

'•This  little  figure,  with  its  back  turned  to  us,  seated  squarely  and 
easily  on  a  dun  horse  with  flowing  mane  and  tail,  has  all  the  elTect  of 
life-size,  and  looks  almost  like  an  equestrian  statue'.  —   Vosmaer. 

Room  C.  On  the  right  wall  are  a  number  of  works  by  Jacob 
Gerritsz  Cuyp  and  his  son  Albert.  By  the  former,  60.  Portrait,  58. 
Group  of  children,  59.  Portrait;  by  the  latter,  64.  (?)  Dead  hare, 
*67.  River-scene  by  evening-light,  68.  Eating  mussels,  *61.  (?)  Two 
grey  horses,  65.  (?)  Poultry.  —  63.  A.  Coosemans,  Fruit;  163.  Jan 
Livens,  St.  Peter;  1.  W.  van  Aelst,  Flowers. 

*268.  Rembrandt,  'De  Eendracht  van  't  land'  (union  of  the 
country),  an  allegorical  painting,  not  very  intelligible  in  its  details, 
and  probably  executed  in  1648,  the  year  of  the  Peace  of  "West- 
phalia, which  Dutch  poets  and  painters  were  never  tired  of  cele- 
brating.    Though  merely  a  study  in  brown  monochrome,  probably 


252     Route  36.  ROTTERDAM.       Boymans'  Museum. 

meant  as  a  sketch  for  a  larger  work ,  and  unfinished ,  it  is  remark- 
ably effective. 

The  foreground  and  part  of  the  middle  distance  represent  the  interior 
of  a  fortress.  In  the  centre  is  a  lion  couchant,  bound  by  two  chains, 
one  of  which  is  attached  to  a  wall  on  the  right,  bearing  the  arms  of 
Amsterdam  with  the  words  'Soli  Deo  Gloria',  while  the  other  is  fastened 
to  the  seat  of  Justice,  who  is  represented  in  an  attitude  of  supplication 
on  the  left.  The  lion  raises  its  head  defiantly  and  places  his  paws  on  a 
bundle  of  arrows,  the  emblem  of  the  United  Provinces,  the  shields  of 
which  surround  him.  The  foreground  is  occupied  by  knights  arming 
themselves  to  battle  for  the  republic,  while  the  guns  on  the  ramparts 
are  seen  firing  on  the  enemy,  who  retreats  in  wild  confusion. 

Above,  *283.  Saenredam,  Church  of  the  Virgin  at  Utrecht. 
Farther  on,  95.  J.  van  Goyen,  Landscape;  *149.  Salomon  Koninck, 
Gold-weigher;  77.  G.  van  den  Eeckhout,  Portrait  of  a  child.  — 
*277.  Jacob  van  Ruysdael,  Cornfield  in  sunshine,  a  very  beautiful 
landscape,  evidently  influenced  by  Rembrandt ;  246.  A.  van  Ostade, 
Old  man  in  his  study;  221.  Aart  van  der  Neer,  Moonlight-scene; 
258.  W.  de  Poorter,  Transitoriness  (an  allegory] ;  *21 .  Job  Berck- 
Heyde,  Old  Exchange  at  Amsterdam;  368.  J.  B.  Weenix ,  The 
sleeping  Tobias :  384.  Em.  de  Witte,  Fishwife  at  Amsterdam ;  *278. 
Jacob  van  Ruysdael,  Sandy  road  under  trees;  185.  Gabriel  Metsu, 
Pastor  in  his  study ;  366.  A.  de  Vries^  Portrait ;  279.  Jacob  van 
Ruysdael,  Old  Fishmarket  at  Amsterdam,  the  figures  by  Jan  van 
Battum;  183.  Jan  van  der  Meer,  Landscape  with  sheep;  139. 
Keirinckx,  Landscape;  175.  C.  de  Man,  Party  of  peasants;  No 
number,  Palamedesz,  Family  group.  —  352.  Hendrik  van  Vliet, 
Interior  of  a  church;  170.  Nic.  Maes,  Gentleman,  lady,  and  child; 
44.  R.  Brakenburg,  Peasant  wedding;  169.  D.  Maes,  Camp;  104. 
J.  Hackaert,  Landscape. 

Room  D.  (principal  room).  To  the  right :  304.  D.  Seghers, 
Flowers;  *109.  Jan  Davidsz  de  Heem,  Fruit;  *117.  Hobbema, 
Landscape;  28.  A.  van  Beyer  en,  Fish;  193.  Mignon,  Flowers;  171, 
172.  N.  Maes,  Portraits  of  Maerten  Nieupoort  and  his  wife;  *36.  F. 
Bol,  Portrait  of  a  boy;  *150.  Phil,  de  Koninck,  Landscape;  280. 
Rachael  Ruysch,  Flowers ;  No  number,  A.  van  Ostade,  Old  Man 
laughing;  342.  L.  Verschuier,  The  Maas  at  Rotterdam. 

*334.  A.  van  de  Velde,  The  farrier,  one  of  his  earliest  works 
(1658);  No  number,  P.  Moreelse,  Portrait;  26.  Beryhen,  Landscape; 
372.  A.  van  der  Werff,  Entombment;  338.  Adr.  Verboom,  Even- 
ing-scene, with  sportsmen  resting ;  107.  A.  Ilanneman,  Grand  Pen- 
sionary Jan  do  Witt;  *88.  Karel  Fabritius,  Portrait,  formerly  at- 
tributed to  Rembrandt,  of  whom  it  would  not  be  unworthy ;  335. 
A.  van  de  Velde,  Pasture  (painted  in  the  same  year  as  No.  334); 
231.  Jacob  Ochtervelt,  Gentleman  offering  an  oyster  to  a  young  lady; 
285,  286.  D.  van  Santvoort,  Shepherd  and  shepherdess ;  248.  A. 
Palamedesz,  Aristocratic  company ;  276.  Sal.  van  Ruysdael,  River- 
scene  near  Dordrecht,  with  barges  and  cattle,  the  atmosphere  wonder- 
fully transparent;  206.  Fred,  de  Moucheron,  Mountain-scene;  54, 


Boymans'  Museum.       ROTTERDAM.  36.  Route.     253 

55.  Corn.  Janszoon  van  Keulen^  Portraits  of  a  man  and  woman ; 
121.  Melchior  d'Hondecoeter,  Dead  poultry. 

22.  Gerrit  Berck-Heyde,  View  of  Cologne,  with  St.  Cunibert's 
In  the  foreground,  and  the  Bayenthurm  behind,  the  cathedral  not 
being  included ;  41.  Jan  Bof/i,  Italian  scene ;  386.  Phil.  Wouver- 
man,  Scene  of  plundering,  in  the  background  a  burning  village ; 
247.  /.  -cm  Ostade,  Travellers  in  front  of  an  inn;  *114.  B.  vander 
Heist,  Lady  and  gentleman  in  a  park  [landscape  by  A.  van  Ever- 
dingen).  —  *118.  Hobbema,  Landscape. 

Small,  but  charming:  by  the  side  of  a  pond  in  which  two  men  are 
fishing,  stands  a  cottage  shaded  by  lofty  trees;  to  the  left  a  road  on 
which  two  travellers  are  approaching;  foreground  in  shade,  with  the 
surface  of  the  water  most  effectively  handled. 

312.  Jan  Steen,  Feast  of  St.  Nicholas,  a  merry  family-group  of 
seven  persons;  336.  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger,  Port  of  Texel; 
140.  Jan  van  Kessel,  Environs  of  Amsterdam ;  199.  P.  Molyn  the 
Elder,  Landscape;  111.  Barth.  van  der  Heist,  Portrait  of  a  pastor 
(1638);  151.  J.  Koning,  Herdboy  with  cattle.  —  *106.  Frans  Hals, 
Portrait  of  a  man;  165.  Jan  Lingelbach,  Italian  landscape. 

414.  F.  Hals  the  Younger,  Quack.  313.  Jan  Steen,  Stone-opera- 
tion :  a  stone  being  cut  out  of  the  head  of  a  boorish  peasant  by  a 
doctor,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  bystanders  ('le  malade  ima- 
ginaire');  141.  J.  van  Kessel,  View  of  Amsterdam.  Above,  6.  Bak- 
huysen,  Largo  sea-piece;  15.  Jan  Beerstraten,  Old  town-hall  of 
Amsterdam,  with  fignxeshy  J. Lingelbach;  No  number,  Th.  deKeyser, 
Portrait;  *369.  Wecnix,' Dead  swan  ;  377.  P.  ran  der  Wer/f,  Portrait 
of  himself;  263.  Pynacker,  Lake  in  a  rocky  landscape;  81.  A.  van 
Everdingen^  Landscape  with  waterfall;  222.  Eglon  van  der  Neer, 
Lady  and  gentleman;  392.  Zeeman,  Calm  sea;  *90.  Govert  Flinck, 
Woman  sitting  under  a  tree  giving  her  hand  to  a  man  standing  in 
front  of  her,  one  of  the  master's  finest  works,  belonging  to  the 
period  when  he  was  a  close  adherent  of  Rembrandt  (1646). 

Rooms  E.  and  F.  contain  the  Modern  Pictures.  Room  E. :  327. 
Cornelis  Troost,  'Chambre  d'accouchee' in  Holland;  428.  Greuze(^), 
Mother  and  child,  a  sketch;  382.  J.  de  Wit,  Allegory;  230.  G.  van 
Nymegen,  Landscape;  155,  156,  157.  Langendyk ,  Camp,  Cavalry 
combat.  Death  of  the  General;  427.  Desgoffes,  Still-life;  147.  Koek- 
fcocfc,  "Winter  landscape. — Room  F.  :  142.  Klinkenberg,  TheVyver- 
berg  at  the  Hague;  326.  H.  A.  van  Trigt,  The  last  days  of  Eras- 
mus;  311.  Corn.  Springer,  Town  Hall  at  Naarden ;  Ary  Scheffer 
(p.  377),  288.  Count  Eberhard  of  Wurtemberg  cutting  the  table- 
cloth between  himself  and  his  son,  289.  Count  Eberhard  by  the 
dead  body  of  his  son  who  had  fallen  while  fighting  bravely  in  battle 
(after  Uhland) ;  349.  Verveer,  The  young  smoker ;  No  number, 
Wally  Moes,  Two  village  boys;  351.  Verveer,  Katwyk  aan  Zee;  No 
number,  Artz,  On  the  shore;  271.  Roelofs,  Landscape;  No  number, 
Rochussen,  Fight;  No  number,  Therese  Schxvarze,  Orphans;  40. 
Bosboom,  Interior  of  the  Groote  Kerk  in  Alkmaar;  184.  Mesdag, 


254     Route  36.  ROTTERDAM.  Boo^npjes. 

►Sea-piece;  *181.  Mauve,  Pasturage;  No  number,  *Mesdag^  Stormy 
sea ;  272.  Roosenboom,  Ilose-"bush. 

The  HoGENDORp's  Plbin  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  at  the  "back  of  the  Mu- 
seum, is  adorned  with  the  statue  of  Gysbert  Karel  van  Ilogendorp 
(PI.  46;  1762-1834),  the  'promoter  of  free  trade',  and  the  'foun- 
der of  the  Dutch  constitution',  by  Geefs  (comp.  p.  275).  —  In  the 
CooLsiNGBL  are  the  handsome  Hospital  (PI.  0,  2)  and  the  Theatre 
(PI.  43 ;  C,  2).  In  the  Coolvest,  opposite  the  hospital,  is  the  new 
Gymnasium  Erasmianum  (PI.  7;  D;  2),  with  a  handsome  group  of 
sculpture  in  the  pediment. 

The  English  Church  (PI.  11 ;  G,  2),  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Hariug- 
\liet  (PL  E,  2),  was  originally  built  by  the  great  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough during  his  command  in  the  Netherlands,  and  has  been 
used  as  a  barraok,  a  hospital,  a  store-house,  and  an  armoury.  Over 
the  entrance,  below  the  English  royal  arms,  are  the  arms  of  the 
Duke  of  Marlborough. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  outside  the  Delft  Gate  (PI.  C,  D,  1), 
the  only  one  of  the  old  city-gates  which  is  still  standing,  is  situated 
the  Zoological  Garden  {Dieryaarde ;  PL  A,  B,  1  ;  admission  50  c), 
tastefully  laid  out  (restaurant).  The  beasts  of  prey  are  fed  in 
summer  at  7  p.m.,   and  after  1st  Sept.  at  2.30  p.m. 

An  important  new  quarter  has  recently  sprung  up  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  town.  Along  the  river  in  this  neighbourhood  stretch  the 
Willem's  Plein  and  the  Willem's  Kade  (PL  D,  C,  5,  6).  At  the  W. 
extremity  of  the  latter,  in  the  old  building  of  the  Royal  Dutch  Yacht 
Club  (PL  25),  is  the  Ethnographical  and  Maritime  Museum,  con- 
taining curiosities  from  the  East  Indies,  Africa,  and  Brazil,  and  a 
collection  of  objects  connected  with  navigation  from  the  17th  cent, 
onwards  (open  daily,  except  Thurs. ,  10-4;  adm.  25  c. ,  Sun.  and 
holidays  10  c).  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  Yeerhaven  stands  the 
Zeemanshuis  (PL  50 ;  B,  6).  —  The  tasteful  new  building  of  the 
Yacht  Club  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  Maas. 

The  *Park  (PL  A,  B,  6),  which  extends  to  the  W.  along  the 
bank  of  the  Maas,  affords  a  pleasant  promenade.  It  is  embellished 
with  groups  of  trees,  grassy  expanses,  and  fish-ponds,  while  here 
and  there  it  commands  a  view  of  the  busy  scene  on  the  river.  In 
summer  a  military  band  plays  here  at  the  Officieren-Societeit  on 
Sun.  afternoon  and  evening  and  on  Wed.  evening  (strangers  ad- 
mitted on  introduction,  obtainable  from  the  chief  hotel-keepers,  etc.). 
In  the  middle  of  the  park  rises  a  marble  statue  by  Strackee  of  the 
popular  patriotic  poet,  Hendrik  Tollens  (d.  1856),  erected  in  1860. 

The  *Boompjes  (PL  D,  E,  4),  a  handsome  quay,  which  de- 
rives its  name  from  the  trees  planted  upon  it,  extends  for  up- 
wards of  1  M.  along  the  bank  of  the  Maas,  and  is  far  more  attrac- 
tive than  such  localities  usually  are.  Upwards  of  100  steamboats 
start  here  for  the  neighbouring  Dutch  towns ,  the  Rhine,  Eng- 
land, France,  Russia,  and  the  Mediterranean.   Visitors  may  usually 


ROTTERDAM.  36.  Route.     255 

enter  and  inspect  the  vessels  without  objection,  provided  tliey  do 
not  get  in  the  way  of  the  work  in  hand. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  Boompjes  the  river  is  crossed  by  two 
Bridges  (PL  E,  F,  4):  the  Railway  Bridge  ^  opened  for  traffic  in 
1877,  which  rests  on  four  buttresses,  or  on  nine,  if  those  on  the 
island  of  Noordereiland ,  opposite  Rotterdam ,  be  included ;  and 
the  Willems- Br ug  for  carriages  and  foot-passengers,  opened  in  1878, 
930  yds.  long,  and  also  resting  on  four  buttresses. 

The  Cafe  Fritschy,  on  the  Noordereiland,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
last-named  bridge,  commands  a  fine  view  of  Rotterdam.  The  middle 
of  the  Noordereiland  is  occupied  by  the  Burgemeester-Hoffmann- 
Plein  (PI.  F,  4,  5),  embellished  with  a  monument  to  Stiettjes  (d. 
1878),  the  engineer  who  planned  the  harbour-works  on  the  left 
bank,  necessitated  by  the  discovery  that  the  new  bridges  interfered 
seriously  with  the  shipping  on  the  Maas.  The  principal  feature  of 
the  works  is  the  large  Konings-Haven  (PI.  F,  G,  5,  4),  adjoining 
which  is  the  wharf  of  the  emigrant  ships  of  the  Dutch-American 
Steamboat  Co.  (PI.  34;  visitors  admitted;  fee).  Railway  and  road 
are  conducted  across  the  harbour  on  drawbridges,  through  the  open- 
ings of  which  the  largest  vessels  can  pass. 

Beyond  the  Koningshaven  lies  the  island  of  Feyenoord,  on  the 
S.W.  side  of  which  are  two  other  harbours.  Passing  the  warehouses 
of  the  Dutch- American  Steamboat  Co.  we  reach  the  gate  and  draw- 
bridge of  the  Binnen-Haven  (PI.  F,  G,  5,  6),  which  is  about  1000 
yds.  long.  Farther  on  is  another  drawbridge,  affording  a  view  of 
the  Spoorweg-Haven  (PI.  F,  6),  which  is  1300  yds.  long  and  flank- 
ed with  rows  of  warehouses.  Both  of  these  harbours  are  accessible 
to  the  largest  ships.  We  may  now  return  to  the  Boompjes  by  one  of 
the  small  steamers  which  start  here  every  20-30  min.  (fare  5  c). 

On  the  E.  side  of  Feyenoord  are  the  extensive  machine  works 
and  wharf  of  the  NederlandscJie  Stoomboot  Maatschappy,  employing 
more  than  1000  workmen. 


37.    From  Rotterdam  to  the  Hague,   Leyden, 
Haarlem,  and  Amsterdam. 

Railway  (■Hollandsche  Spoorweg'' ;  stations,  see  p.  246)  from  R(jtterdam 
to(52V2M.)  Amsterdam  in  2-23/4  lirs.  (fares  3  fl.  75,  2  fl.  85,  1  fl.  85  c). 
Luggage  extra.  Passengers  are  cautioned  against  leaning  out  at  the  win- 
dows, as  the  carriages  pass  close  to  the  railings  of  the  numerous  bridges. 

Flat  pastures,  numerous  windmills,  straight  canals,  and  oc- 
casionally a  few  plantations  and  thriving  farm-bouses  are  the  prin- 
cipal features  of  the  country.  On  the  left,  immediately  after  the 
station  is  quitted,  lies  Delf shaven  on  the  Meuse,  with  11,500  in- 
hab.,  the  birthplace  of  the  naval  hero  Piet  Hein  (p.  257),  the 
capturer  of  the  Spanish  'silver  fleet'  in  1628,  to  whom  a  statue  was 
erected  here  in  1870. 

3  M.  Schiedam  (HulsingaJ,  a  town  on  the  Schie,  with  26,000 


256     Route  37.  DELFT.  From  Rotterdam 

iiihab.,  is  celebrated  for  its  'Hollands'  and  'Geneva'  (so  called  from 
the  Jenever,  or  juniper-berry  with  which  it  is  flavoured),  of  which 
there  are  upwards  of  220  distilleries.  About  30,000  pigs  are  an- 
nually fattened  on  the  refuse  of  the  grain  used  in  the  process. 
Tramway  to  Rotterdam,  see  p.  247.  —  Omnibus  from  Schiedam  six 
times  daily  to  the  (6  M.)  small  town  of  Vlaardingen,  the  principal 
Dutch  depot  of  the  'great  fishery',  as  the  herring,  cod,  and  haddock 
fishery  is  called  by  the  natives. 

91/2  M.  Delft.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Lubrechtb,  Groote  Markt  9,  in- 
different, R.,  L.,  &  A.  2fl.;  Heekenlogement,  near  the  Hague  Gate.  — 
Jiestauranl  Herman^  de  Bolk,  opposite  the  station. 

Tramway  from  the  Rotterdam  Gate  (PI.  B,  C,  6)  to  the  Hague  Gate 
(VI.  A,  1)  and  via  Ryswijk  to  (20  min.)  the  Hague  (see  p.  2G0). 

Steamer  to  Rotterdam  eight  times  daily  in  IV2  hr.  (fare  30  c). 

Bdft,  an  old-fashioned  town  of  28,000  inhab.  (1/3  Rom.  Cath.), 
with  remarkably  clean  canals  bordered  with  lime-trees,  is  situated 
on  the  Schie,  which  flows  into  the  Maas  at  Delfshaven.  The  town  was 
almost  totally  destroyed  by  fire  in  1536,  and  in  1654  it  was  seriously 
damaged  by  the  explosion  of  a  powder-magazine ;  but  it  still  pos- 
sesses numerous  interesting  buildings  of  the  16-17th  cent.,  espe- 
cially at  the  Wynhaven,  and  in  the  Koornmarkt  and  Voorstraat. 
Delft  was  the  birthplace  oi  Hugo  de  Groot  {^Grotius ;  1583-1645), 
the  statesman  and  scholar  (tomb  and  monument,  see  p.  257).  In 
the  17th  and  18th  cent,  the  pottery  and  porcelain  of  Delft  were 
celebrated  throughout  Europe,  but  this  industry  afterwards  fell  into 
decay  and  was  not  revived  till  quite  lately.  Visitors  are  admitted 
to  the  manufactory  of  Messrs.  Joost  Thooft  ^  Lahouchere,  on  Sat., 
2-5  p.m.,  on  previous  written  application. 

On  leaving  the  railway-station  (PI.  A,  5)  we  observe  the  tower 
of  the  Nieuwe  Kerk.  We  turn  to  the  left,  cross  the  Sinyel-Gracht, 
and  then  walk  along  the  canal  till  we  reach  an  intersecting  canal, 
the  Oude  Delft ^  which  traverses  the  town  from  N.  to  S.  On  the 
left  bank  of  the  latter  is  the  Gemeenlandshuis  van  Belfsland  (PI.  1), 
with  a  Gothic  facade  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  in  sandstone. 

A  melancholy  celebrity  attaches  to  the  Prinscn/jo/"  (PL  10),  or 
palace,  also  on  the  Oude  Delft,  as  the  scene  of  the  death  of  William 
of  Orange,  the  Silent,  the  founder  of  Dutch  independence,  who 
was  assassinated  here  on  10th  July,  1584  (see  p.  270).  The  pal- 
ace was  long  used  as  a  barrack,  but  is  now  restored  and  fitted  up 
as  a  William  of  Orange  Museum  (open  daily,  10-5,  free). 

By  passing  through  the  door  opposite  the  Oude  Kerk,  marked  'Gym- 
nasium Publicum',  and  crossing  the  court,  we  reach  the  spot  where  the 
tragedy  took  place,  on  the  first  floor,  to  the  right  by  the  staircase.  It  is 
marked  by  an  inscription.  The  murderer,  a  Burgundian  named  Balthasav 
Gerhard^  who  was  prompted  by  a  desire  to  gain  the  price  set  upon  the 
hero's  head  by  Alexander  Farnese,  took  up  his  position  in  front  of  the 
spot  thus  indicated ,  and  when  he  discharged  his  pistol  was  quite  close 
to  his  victim,  who  was  descending  the  staircase  with  his  friends.  The 
marks  left  by  the  fatal  bullet  are  still  pointed  out. 

Opposite  the  Prinsenhof ,    on  the  site  of  an  earlier  church ,    is 


\ ? 

il.SchaicirTniTff C.3 

XZ.Stadkuis B.  C* 

Xi  .S;puigoge. C.5 

X^.lwem.ichoo'i B.5 


W.GemeaHtzndshuis  i  ^  .Koarnbeurs B.4. 

j7mDelfslan.<s B.4f.|  1  .LLefdcutiglnrichtbui     CS 

!      Z.Meujre-Xerk C*.    9  .FostkoJitooT B.5. 

^.Oudf.Kf-rh B.'iAlO.FrmseTxhof X&.'i. 

o.ILlCajtJL.SerkeiL    .    .    .  B.3. 


'S^lM^f^'^''"'       B  i  L  r  T 


1  •  12.000 

ao      loo  300  aoo 

Meter 


•ograpKAnstalt  tdi 


Vagner  *  Debes,  Leipzig. 


to  Amsterdam.  DELFT.  37.  Route.      257 

situated  the  Gothic  Oude  Kerk  (PI.  4),  erected  in  the  15th  cent. , 
with  a  somewhat  leaning  tower,  and  wooden  vaultiiig  of  1574. 

It  contains  the  monument  oi Admiral  Maavten  Tromp{A..  1653),  the  victor 
in  thirty-two  naval  battles,  the  last  of  which,  fought  against  the  English, 
and  the  occasion  of  his  death,  is  represented  on  the  monument.  After 
defeating  the  English  fleet  under  Blake  near  the  'Dunes',  he  caused  a 
broom  to  be  hoisted  to  his  masthead ,  to  signify  that  he  had  swept  the 
channel  clear  of  his  enemies.  Piet  Hein  (d.  1629),  the  admiral  of  the  In- 
dian Company,  who  in  1628  captured  the  Spanish  'silver  fleet",  with  its 
precious  freight  valued  at  12  million  florins,  also  has  a  monument  in  this 
church.  A  monument  with  a  medallion-figure  marks  the  tomb  of  the  nat- 
uralist Leeuicenhoek  (d.  1723).  Another  interesting  monument  is  that  of 
a  daughter  of  Philip  van  3Iarnix  (p.  245).  erected  in  1655,  and  restored  in 
1856.  The  pulpit,  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent.,  resembles 
that  at  the  Hague  (p.  271).  —  The  sacristan  (15  c.)  resides  opposite  the 
N.  transept. 

The  choir  of  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  (PI.  3  ;  C,  4)  in  the  Groote  Markt, 
another  Gothic  edifice,  huilt  in  1412-76,  contains  a  magnificent 
*Monument,  begun  in  1616  by  Hendrik  de  Keyser  and  finished  by 
his  eldest  son  Pieter,  to  the  memory  of  William  of  Orange.  Sacri- 
stan, Groote  Markt  79  (15  c). 

The  effigy  of  the  prince  in  marble  lies  on  a  black  marble  sarco- 
phagus ,  beneath  a  canopy  supported  by  four  clustered  pillars  and  six 
isolated  columns,  all  likewise  of  marble.  In  the  niches  of  the  pillars  stand 
four  allegorical  figures :  Liberty  is  represented  with  a  sceptre ,  a  cap  of 
liberty,  and  the  motto,  '/e  maintiendrai  piifi  et  justice*;  Justice  with  her 
scales,  beside  which  is  inscribed  "William's  favourite  motto,  '■Saevis  tran- 
quillus  in  ttndis' \  Prudence,  with  a  twig  of  thorn  in  her  hand;  Religion, 
with  the  Bible  in  one  hand,  and  a  miniature  church  in  the  other,  whilst 
her  foot  rests  on  a  comer-stone  emblematical  of  Christ.  At  the  head  of 
the  statue  is  placed  a  second  statue  in  bronze ,  representing  the  prince 
in  full  military  accoutrement,  while  at  the  feet  is  a  bronze  figure  of 
Fame,  with  outspread  wings,  6  ft.  in  height,  resting  on  the  ground  on 
the  point  of  the  left  foot  only.  The  dog,  on  which,  in  mediaeval  fashion, 
the  feet  of  the  recumbent  figure  rest,  is  placed  there  in  memory  of  tlie 
princes  favourite  dog,  which  was  the  means  of  saving  his  life  in  1572 
when  he  was  attacked  at  night  by  two  Spanish  assassins  in  his  camp  at 
Malines.  The  inscription,  on  the  canopy,  is  pointed  out  by  weeping  genii. 
The  pillars  are  surmounted  by  obelisks.  Beneath  the  same  stone  the 
prince's  wife  and  his  son  Prince  Maurice  (b.  1567,  d.  1625)  also  repose.  The 
church  afterwards  became  the  burial-place  of  all  the  princes  of  the  House 
of  Orange,  down  to  the  present  day.  Another  simple  monument  marks  the 
tomb  of  Hugo  Grotius  (p.  256,  374). 

In  the  market-place,  in  front  of  the  church,  is  a  bronze  Statue 
of  Hugo  Grotius  (p.  256).  by  Strackee,  erected  in  1886,  —  The 
handsome  Stadhijis  (PI.  12),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  market-place, 
restored  by  H.  de  Keyser  after  a  fire  in  1618,  with  a  Gothic  belfry, 
contains  a  few  good  pictures. 

Of  special  interest  are  the  paintings  of  Michiel  Janszoon  van  Miere- 
velt  CDelft,  1567-1641),  the  first  of  the  great  Dutch  portrait-painters.  A 
room  on  the  ground-floor  contains  a  large  corporation-piece  (arquebusiers) 
by  him,  depicting  36  persons,  with  faces  full  of  life  and  energy,  but  inar- 
tistically  grouped;  also  a  corporation -piece  of  31  gesticulating  figures  by 
J.  W.  Delph,  1592;  and  others  by  Rochus  Delff,  Jacob  /)«?# (1648).  etc.  — 
In  a  room  on  the  first  floor  are  portraits  of  the  princes  William  I..  Mau- 
rice. Philip  "William,  and  Frederick  Henry  of  Orange ,  Counts  William 
Lewis  and  Ernest  Casimir  of  Nassau,  Frederick  V.  of  the  Palatinate  (p.  333), 
and  Hugo  Grotius,  all  by  Mierevelt.  There  is  also  some  tapestry  by  Maxi- 
milian  van  dei'  Vucht  (about  1640). 

Baedeker's  Bclpium  and  Holland.  10th  Edit.  17 


258     Route  37.  WARMOND. 

Two  doors  beyond  the  Synagogue  (narrow  passage ;  ring)  stands 
the  Town  Hospital  [Liefdadig  Inrichting ;  PI.  7,  C  5).  The  latter 
contains  four  anatomical  pictures  (comp.  p.  liii),  including  one  of 
the  earliest  paintings  of  the  kind,  executed  together  by  the  two 
Mierevelts  in  1617;  the  three  other  pictures  are  of  later  date. 

The  Polytechnic  School  (PI.  8  ;  B,  5),  on  the  Oude  Delft  (p.  256), 
is  attended  by  about  300  students. 

The  Oude  Delft  is  terminated  towards  the  N.  by  the  Hague  Gate 
and  on  the  S.  by  the  Rotterdam  Gate.  Near  the  latter,  to  the  left, 
rises  the  Arsenal  (PI.  B,  5),  a  large,  gloomy  building,  partly  sur- 
rounded by  water,  and  adorned  with  the  arms  of  the  old  Dutch  Re- 
public.   It  was  originally  a  warehouse  of  the  E.  India  Company. 

The  Railway  journey  from  Delft  to  the  Hague  occupies  Y4  hr. 
only.  At  Stat.  Ryswyk  the  celebrated  peace  between  England, 
France,  Holland,  Germany,  and  Spain  was  concluded  in  1697.  Tl»e 
palace  of  the  Prince  of  Orange  ,  where  the  treaty  was  signed  ,  no 
longer  exists,  but  its  site  is  marked  by  an  obelisk  erected  in  1792. 

141/2  M.  The  Hague,  see  p.  259.  From  the  Hague  to  Oouda, 
see  p.  356. 

2OY2M.  Voorschoten ;  to  the  right  rises  the  chnrch-tower  of  the 
village,  which  is  connected  with  Leyden  and  Voorburg  and  with 
Wassenaar  by  steam-tramways  (40,  25  c).  The  train  now  crosses 
the  narrow  arm  of  the  Rhine  which  retains  the  name  down  to  its 
efflux  into  the  North  Sea. 

24  M.    Leyden,  see  p.  279. 

From  Letdkn  to  Woeeden  (for  Utrecht),  21  M.,  railway  in  1  hr. 
10  min.  —  6  M.  HazeTswoude-Koudekerk;  9V2  M.  Alphen;  i2^/-z  M.  Zwam- 
merdam;  14  M.  Bodegraven  (steam-tramway  to  Gouda,  p.  356)5  21  M.  Woer- 
den.    From  Woerden  via  Harmelen  to  Utrecht,  see  p.  356. 

25Y2  M.  Warmond^  to  the  left  of  whi'ch  rises  a  large  Roman  Ca- 
tholic seminary.  To  the  left  of  (30M.)  Piet-Gyzenbrug  is  the  church 
of  Noordwykerhout.    33^2  ^I-   Veenenburg ;  SQ^/2M.  Vogelenzang. 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  E.  of  stat.  "Vogelenzang,  near  the  village  of 
Bennebroek,  is  situated  Hartenkamp,  a  country-residence,  where  Linne  (Lin- 
nfeus),  the  celebrated  Swedish  naturalist,  resided  in  1736-38  with  his  weal- 
thy patron  George  Clifford,  who  was  English  ambassador  at  that  time. 
Linn^  wrote  his  'Hortus  Cliffordianus"  and  his^  'Systema  Naturge"  here. 

The  line  traverses  for  a  short  distance  the  E.  slopes  of  the 
North  Sea  Dunes.  —  42  M.  Haarlem  (p.  285)  is  the  junction  for 
Amsterdam,  and  for  Alkmaar  and  the  Helder  (R.  43). 

The  Amsterdam  line  turns  towards  the  E. ,  running  parallel 
with  the  canal  and  the  high-road  in  a  perfectly  straight  course.  The 
Fort  aan  de  Liede  is  seen  on  the  right,  immediately  after  the 
train  has  quitted  the  station.  The  line  now  traverses  an  extensive 
plain,  formed  on  the  right  by  the  Haarlemmer  Polder,  and  on  the 
left  by  the  newly-reclaimed  Polder  of  the  Y  (see  p.  337).  Down 
to  1840  the  first  of  these  was  the  Haarlemmer  Meer,  a  lake  18  M. 
in  length,  9  M.  in  breadth,  and  about  14  ft.  in  depth,  which  was 
formed  in  the  15th  cent,  by  the  overflow  of  the  Rhine  and  the 


THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route.    259 

gradiial  crumbling  away  of  tlie  banks  of  the  Y,  and  afterwards 
increased  so  considerably  as  to  imperil  the  towns  of  Amsterdam, 
Haarlem,  Leyden,  and  Utrecht.  The  operations  for  draining  the 
lake  were  begun  in  1840,  and  completed  in  1853,  at  a  cost  of 
131/2  million  florins.  The  area  of  this  vast  'polder'  (see  p.  xxix) 
is  about  72  sq.  M.,  and  the  land  thus  reclaimed  realised  an  average 
price  of  200  fl.  per  acre,  while  its  present  value  is  estimated  at 
800  fl.  per  acre.  It  is  encircled  by  canals,  used  for  purposes  of 
drainage  and  irrigation.  The  population  of  this  district  is  now 
about  10,000.  The  engines  with  their  lofty  chimneys,  constructed 
originally  for  the  purpose  of  pumping  out  the  water  of  the  'Meer', 
and  now  used  in  draining  it,  are  worthy  of  the  notice  of  engineers. 

At  Halfweg ,  the  'halfway'  and  only  station  between  Haarlem 
and  Amsterdam ,  there  are  strong  lock-gates  which  formerly  sepa- 
rated the  waters  of  the  Y  from  the  Haarlemmer  Meer.  The  old 
chateau  of  Zwanenburg  near  the  railway,  dating  from  the  17th  cent., 
is  now  a  beetroot-sugar  manufactory.  About  250  years  ago  the  cha- 
teau lay  nearly  Vo  M.  from  the  Haarlemmer  Meer ,  which  before  it 
was  drained  had  advanced  to  the  very  walls  of  the  building. 

521/2  M.   Amsterdam,  see  p.  293. 


38.  The  Hague. 

Comp.    the  Plan^  p.  276. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Dutch  Station  (PI.  D,  8),  for  Rotterdam,  Leyden, 
Haarlem,  and  Amsterdam;  2.  Rhenish  Station  (PI.  F,  5,  6),  for  Gouda 
(Rotterdam,  Amsterdam),  Utrecht,  and  Arnhem.  The  two  stations  are 
joined  by  a  connecting  line.  Good  Buffets  at  both.  Tramways  from  the  sta- 
tions into  the  town,  and  cabs,  see  below ;  tramway  to  Scheveningen,  see  p.27t;. 

Hotels.  *H6tel  des  Indes  (PI.  a;  E  4),  in  the  Lange  Voorhout ;  *Ho- 
TEL  Bellevue  (PI.  b;  F,  5),  near  the  Park  and  the  station  of  the  Rhenish 
railway;  *Vieux  Doelex  (PI.  d;  E,4),  Tournooiveld ,  an  old-established 
house  (doel,  a  common  sign  for  inns  in  Holland,  means  'target';  doelen, 
'shooting  gallery');  *H6tel  Padlez  (PI.  e;  E,  4),  opposite  the  theatre,  good 
cuisine;  at  all  these  the  chariies  are  similar:  R.  l'/2-15  fl.,  L.  30-35,  A.40- 
50,  B.  SO  c,  dej.  2-2V2,  M.  21/2  fl.  —  Hotel  de  l'Eckope  (PI.  c;  E,  5),  Lange 
Houtstraat  61;  "Hotel  du  MAEficHAL  de  Tdkenne  (PI.  f;  E,  5),  Korte  Hout- 
8traat24;  HoTEL-CAFfi  Centkal  (PI.  g;  D,  5).  Lange  Pooten,  with  a  large 
cafd-restaurant ;  at  these,  R.  IV2-2,  L.  &  A.  1/2  fl.,  B.  70-75  c,  dej.  I-IV2, 
D.  2,  pens.  41/2-0  fl.  —  Second  class:  Twee  Steden  (PI.  m;  D,  5),  in  the 
Buitenhof,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  du  Passage,  in  the  Arcade  (p.  270),  at  the 
entrance  from  the  Achteromstraat,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  1^/4,  B.  ^4,  dej.  1,  D.  2,  pens. 
41/2  fl. ;  Hotel-Restaueant  M.^assen  (PI.  1;  D,  6),  Eerste  Wagenstraat  22, 
R.  11/4-2,  L.  30,  A.  40,  B.  75  c,  D.  13/^,  pens.  41/2  fl. ;  Geoot  Keizeeshop 
(PI.  h;  C,D,4),  in  the  Buitenhof;  Hotel  Toelast  (PI.  i;  C,  5) ,  in  the 
Groenmarkt;  HoTEL-CAFft  Sx.  Hcbeet,  Hoogstraat  5  (PI.  C,  4,  5);  *H6tel 
DU  Commeece  (PI.  n;  D,  5),  Spuistraat  61;  Lion  d'Oe  (PI.  0;  D,  5),  Hof- 
straat ;  Zeven  Keeken  van  Rome  (PI.  p ;  D,  6),  in  the  Spui.  —  Hotel  BsAusfi- 
JOUE,  see  p.  277. 

Restaurants.  "Van  der  Pyl,  Plaats  18  (PI.  D,  4),  D.  from  IV2  fl.;  Cafi 
Riche  and  Ca/4  Central,  dej.  and  D.  from  Ifl.,  see  below ;  Maassen,  see  above; 
^Schreuders,  Torenstraat,  plain.  —  Wine.  Central  Bodega,  Continental  Bo- 
dega, both  in  the  Lange  Pooten.  —  Beer.  Linke,  Venestraat  20  (PI.  0,5); 
Pschorrhrau,  Spuistraat  12;  Zum  Framiskaner ,  Spuistraat  47,  also  a  cafe, 

17* 


260     Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Cafes. 

with  garden;  Miinchener  Kindly  Spuistraat  fPl.  D,  5);  Beyersch  Bierhuis, 
Kettingstraat  8;  Beer  Vault,  in  the  Arcade-,  Sch)nide-Bo7ieski,  Spuistraat  47, 

Cafes.  "Ca/e  Riche,  in  the  Arcade  (p.  270);  "Caf^  Central  (PI.  g;  D,  5), 
Lange  Pooten.  also  a  restaurant,  high  charges;  Zuid-JIoUandscIt  Koffyhvis, 
Vischmarkt  (PI.  C,  5),  opposite  the  Groote  Kerk;  Goudenhoofd,  Groen- 
markt,  at  the  corner  of  the  Hoogstraat;  Caft  Suisse^  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Plein.  —  Confectioners:  ^Monchen,  Lange  Houtstraat  (PI,  E,  4,  5),  near  the 
Plein;  Sprecher,  in  the  Plein. 

"Warm  Baths  at  the  Mauritskade  (PI.  1;  D,  3),  with  a  basin  for  swim- 
mers, and  at  Scheveningen. 

Cabs  (at  the  stations,  and  in  the  Tournooiveld,  Buitenhof,  Plein,  Huy- 
gensplein,  etc.).  —  According  to  the  tariff  all  fares  are  reckoned  by  time. 
For  20  min,  60  c.  ;  1/2  hr.  75  c. ;  per  hr.  1  fl,  25  c. ;  each  additional  'A  hr. 
30  c.  —  Two-horse  cabs  one-half  more.  Each  trunk  10  c,  small  articles 
free.  Tolls  extra.  The  drivers  are  forbidden  to  demand  fees,  but  may 
exact  their  fare  in  advance. 

Tramways  traverse  the  town  in  various  directions,  starting  from  the 
Dutch  and  Rhenish  Stations  and  from  the  Plein  (comp.  the  Plan).  —  Steam 
Tramway  to  Scheveningen ,  see  p.  276;  also  to  Delft  (in  20  min.),  starting 
from  the  Huygensplein  (PI.  D,  7),  and  passing  Ryswyk  (p.  258);  to  Loos- 
duinen  (comp,  PI.  A,  5),  Naaldwyk^  and  ''sOravesande  (in  13/4  hr,);  to  Leyden^ 
every  2  hrs.,  in  I'/a  hr. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  59;  C,  5),  at  the  back  of  the  Groote 
Kerk,  open  from  6.15  a.m.  to  10  p.  m. 

Theatre  (PI.  68;  E,  4)  in  the  Tournooiveld,  French  Operas  on  Mondays, 
Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  Dutch  plays  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  in  winter 
only.     Performances  begin  at  7, 

Art  dealers.  Engravings  :  Goupil  &  Co.  (PI.  17;  D,  4),  Plaats  20;*  W.  T. 
AV/e't-,Wilhelmina-Galery4;  CouvS  (Vl.lQ;  D,  5)  .  Lange  Pooten 41;  Wisselingh, 
Buitenhof  48.  —  Photographs  :  M.  J.  Parson,  Plaats  19;  A.vanEoogstraten  & 
Zoon,  Plaats  11;  Visser,  Spuistraat  36.  —  Art-exhibitions  are  held  from  time 
to  time  in  the  headquarters  of  the  artists'  society  '■Ptikhri  Sludio\  Prinsen- 
gracht,  in  the  Teekenacademie ,  and  in  the  Gebouw  voor  Kunst  en  Weten- 
schappen  (PI.  8;  F,  5),  which  is  also  used  for  theatrical  and  other  performances. 

De  Boer's  Grand  Bazar  Royal  (PI.  2;  C,  2),  Zeestraat,  is  a  very  attractive 
emporium  of  Japanese,  Chinese,  and  other  curiosities  and  fancy-articles 
of  every  description.  Depot  for  the  Faience  made  at  Rozenburg ,  Lange 
Pooten  39 ;  for  work  by  Thoofl  <k  Labouchere  of  Delft  (p.  256),  at  Philiponna's, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Xoordeinde  and  the  Plaats. 

Booksellers.    Van  Stockum  <£•  Zoon,  Buitenhof  86;  Nyhoff,  Nobel-Str.  18. 

British  Minister:  ,Sir  Eorace  Rumbold ;  first  secretary,  H.  P.Fenton^Esq. 
—  United  States  Minister:  Samuel  R.  Thayer,  Esq. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  Church  of  SS.  John  and  Philip,  Bosch- 
straat,  near  the  Rhenish  Station  (PI.  E,  4),  at  11  a.m.  and  3  p.m.;  Rev. 
Edward  Brine,  Bezuidenhout  50,  chaplain  to  the  British  embassy. 

Principal  Attractions.  *' Picture  Gallery  (p.  262);  Binnenhof  (p.  261); 
walk  through  the  Plein  (p.  270),  the  Korte  Voorhout,  and  the  Lange 
Voorhout  (p^273);  the  *Park  (Het  Bosch;  p.  275);  excursion  to  Scheve- 
ningen (p.  276).  The  Picture  Gallery  is  1  M.  from  the  Dutch,  and  V2  ^• 
from  the  Rhenish  railway-station. 

The  Hague  (156,500  inliab,  ,  1/3  Rom.  Cath.) ,  Fr,  La  Hay e, 
originally  a  hunting -seat  of  the  Counts  of  Holland,  whence  its 
Dutch  name  '<S  Graven  Hage  or  den  Haag  {i.e.  'the  count's  enclos- 
ure', or  'hedge'),  has  for  centuries  been  the  favourite  residence  of 
the  Dutch  princes.  From  the  16th  cent,  downwards  it  was  the 
political  capital  of  the  States  General,  and  in  the  17th  and  18th 
centuries  was  the  centre  of  all  their  most  important  diplomatic 


Binnenhof.  THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route.      261 

transactions.  Owing,  however,  to  the  jealousy  of  the  towns  entitled 
to  vote  in  the  assembly  of  the  states,  the  Hague  was  denied  a  voice 
in  that  body,  and  therefore  continued  to  be  "the  largest  village  in 
Europe',  as  it  has  sometimes  been  called,  until  Louis  Bonaparte, 
when  King  of  Holland ,  conferred  on  it  the  privileges  of  a  town. 
Its  aristocratic  and  prosperous  appearance  is  due  solely  to  the  pres- 
ence of  the  court  and  the  numerous  nobles  and  diplomatists  who 
reside  here,  and  not  to  the  internal  resources  of  the  town  itself. 

No  town  in  Holland  possesses  so  many  broad  and  handsome 
streets ,  lofty  and  substantial  houses ,  and  spacious  and  imposing 
squares  as  the  Hague.  The  N.E.  quarter  of  the  town,  with  the 
Vyverberg,  the  Kneuterdyk,  the  Voorhout,  and  the  Noordeinde,  is 
especially  remarkable  in  this  respect. 

The  neighbourhood  of  the  *Vyver  (i.  e.  fish-pond  ;  PI.  D,  4,  5), 
a  sheet  of  water  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  enlivened  with 
an  island  and  swans,  and  partly  surrounded  by  fine  old  avenues, 
is  the  most  fashionable  quarter.  The  water  is  kept  in  motion  by 
artificial  means,  freshwater  being  pumped  by  a  steam-engine  on  the 
Dunes  into  the  Vyver  and  the  canals.  The  impetus  thus  given  to 
it  causes  a  slight  stream  towards  Rotterdam ,  where  the  water  is 
finally  pumped  out  into  the  Maas. 

On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Vyver  is  situated  the  Binnenhof  (PL 
D,  5),  an  irregular  pile  of  buildings ,  some  of  them  of  mediaeval 
origin  ,  and  once  surrounded  by  a  m.oat.  Most  of  the  houses  have 
been  restored  of  late,  and  some  of  them  entirely  rebuilt.  About  the 
year  1250  Count  William  of  Holland,  afterwards  elected  emperor  of 
Germany,  built  a  palace  here ,  and  this  building  was  enlarged  by 
his  son  Florens  V.,  who  in  1291  made  the  Hague  his  capital.  The 
stadtholders,  from  Maurice  of  Nassau  onwards,  all  resided  here. 

On  the  E.  of  the  square  stands  the  old  Hall  of  the  Knights 
(PL  60),  a  brick  building  of  the  time  of  Florens  V.,  resembling  a 
chapel,  with  lofty  gables  and  two  turrets ;  it  now  contains  the  Ar- 
chives of  the  Home  Office.  To  the  E.  of  the  Knights'  Hall  is  the 
Gbbbchtshof  (PL  9),  or  court  of  justice,  the  assize-chamber  in  which 
contains  good  reliefs  of  1511,  while  the  civil  court-room  is  embel- 
lished with  scenes  from  Roman  history  by  O.  de  Lairesse  (entrance 
from  the  passage  on  the  S.E.  side,  near  the  'Rykstelegraaf'). 

The  N.  and  S.  wings  of  the  Binnenhof  are  occupied  by  the 
Chambers  of  the  States  Gekbral  (PL  63  ;  D,  5).  The  old  hall  of 
the  States  of  the  time  of  the  republic,  with  two  ancient  mantel- 
pieces and  allegorical  paintings  by  Parmentier,  has  been  restored. 
(Admission,  free,  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.,  11-4;  the  gallery  is 
also  open  to  the  public  during  sittings.)  The  interesting  Treves  Sa- 
loon, built  by  William  IIL  in  1697  as  a  reception-room,  contains  a 
handsome  ceiling  and  the  portraits  of  seven  electors  by  Brandon  and 
other  painters  (curious  echo).  The  entrance  to  these  apartments  is 
in  the  E.  corner  of  the  court,  by  the  door  inscribed  'Ministeiie  van 


262     Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Picture 

Waterstaat,  Handel,  en  Nyverlieid'.  —  In  the  centre  of  the  court 
is  an  elegant  wrought  iron  fountain,  with  a  gilt  statuette  of  Wil- 
liam of  Holland  (1227-1256). 

The  history  of  the  Republic,  during  its  most  glorious  period,  was  sullied 
by  two  dark  tragedies,  of  which  the  Binnenhof  was  witness.  The  influential 
John  van  Oldenbarneveld  ^  the  Grand  Pensionary,  or  prime  minister  of 
Holland,  having  incurred  the  displeasure  of  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange  by 
his  opposition,  the  stadtholder,  during  a  meeting  of  the  States  General, 
caused  Oldenbarneveld  to  be  arrested ,  together  with  his  learned  friends 
Grotius  and  Ilogerheets^  the  Pensionaries  of  Rotterdam  and  Leyden.  The 
two  latter  were  conducted  to  the  castle  of  Loevenstein  (p.  349),  while  the 
Grand  Pensionary  himself  was  condemned  to  death,  'for  having  conspired 
to  dismember  the  States  of  the  Netherlands,  and  greatly  troubled  God's 
Church'  (comp.  p.  xxxii).  On  24th  May,  1619,  the  unfortunate  minister, 
then  in  his  72nd  year,  was  executed  on  a  scaffold  erected  in  the  Binnen- 
hof, after  having  written  a  touching  vindication  of  his  innocence  to  his 
family ,  and  solemnly  declare<l  on  the  scaffold  that  'he  had  ever  acted 
from  sincerely  pious  and  patriotic  motives'.  The  other  tragedy  alluded  to 
is  the  death  of  De  Witt,  which  took  place  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  the  Binnenhof  (see  p.  270). 

Passing  through  the  N,  E.  gate  of  the  Binnenhof,  which  is 
adorned  with  the  arms  of  the  County  of  Holland ,  we  reach  a 
house  standing  alone  on  the  left,  No.  29,  with  an  en  trance- court 
enclosed  hy  a  railing.  This  is  the  Mauritshuis  (PI.  53 ;  E,  5), 
erected  by  Prince  John  Maurice  of  Nassau ,  the  Dutch  West  India 
Co.'s  governor  of  Brazil  (d.  1679) ,  and  now  containing  the  cele- 
brated **Picture  Gallery  (^Koninklyk  Kahinct  van  Schilderyen ;  open 
daily,  Monday  to  Saturday  10-4  in  summer,  10-3  in  winter,  Sun- 
days and  holidays  12.30  to  3  or  4;  small  fee  for  charge  of  umbrel- 
las, etc.). 

The  nucleus  of  the  Gallery  of  the  Hague  consists  of  collections 
made  by  the  princes  of  the  House  of  Orange.  As  early  as  the  first 
half  of  the  17th  cent.  Frederick  Henry  (d.  1647)  and  his  consort 
Amalia  of  Solms-Braunfels  ordered  so  many  pictures  from  Dutch 
and  Flemish  masters  that  they  left  no  fewer  than  250  works  to  be 
divided  among  their  four  daughters  (1675).  William  III.  formed  a 
collection  at  the  Chateau  of  Loo,  which  on  his  death  was  sold  at 
Amsterdam.  The  Stadtholder  William  V.  (1748-1806)  also  gradually 
collected  about  200  pictures,  many  of  which  are  still  in  this  gal- 
lery. To  the  purchase  of  the  Slingelandt  collection  the  gallery 
was  indebted  for  a  number  of  its  finest  works.  The  flight  of  the 
Prince  of  Orange  in  1795 ,  on  the  approach  of  the  French  troops, 
was  followed  by  the  removal  of  the  pictures  to  the  Louvre.  In 
1815  a  partial  restitution  took  place,  but  68  works  still  remained 
in  Paris.  In  1817  the  gallery  contained  only  173  pictures,  but 
the  number  was  rapidly  increased  by  the  zealous  and  successful 
exertions  of  King  William  I.  The  catalogue  now  numbers  up- 
wards of  450  paintings ,  of  which  300  belong  to  the  Dutch  school, 
40  to  the  Flemish,  20  to  the  German,  and  70  to  the  Italian,  French, 
and  Spanish.    Director,  Dr.  A.  Brcdius. 

Rembrandt  and  Potter  are  the  princes  of  the  collection.     The 


Gallery. 


THE  HAGUE. 


05.  Route.     263 


five  works  by  Rembrandt  are  all  among  the  best  specimens  of  his 
early  manner.  Jan  Steen ,  Terburg  ,  Gerard  Dou ,  Adrian  van 
Ostade ,  and  Adrian  van  de  Velde  are  also  represented  by  master- 
pieces. The  finest  landscapes  are  the  three  Ruysdaels  and  those 
of  Van  der  Meer  of  Delft,  a  painter  who  has  only  recently  obtained 
the  fame  he  deserves.  —  Excellent  catalogue  in  French,  by  Vict,  de 
Stuers ,  IV2  fl-  (out  of  print);  abridgment  in  Dutch  or  French 
(1888),  50  c.    A  new  catalogue  is  in  preparation. 

Ground-Floor.  — We  first  enter  the  principal  room,  facing  us, 
which  is  numbered  III.— Room  III.  Flemish  School.  To  the  left:  226ter. 
Willeboirts  Bosschaert,  Yenus  and 
Adonis ;  245.  Rottenhammer^  Re- 
pose on  the  Flight  into  Egypt;  8. 
B.  van  Bassen,  Church-interior; 
*204.  A.  van  Dyck,  Anna  Wake, 
wife  of  No.  203  (see  below);  *223. 
David  Teniers  the  Younger,  The 
good  kitchen ;  222.  Frans  Snyders, 
Stag-hunt  (Diana  and  the  land- 
scape by  Rubens).  *203.  A.  van 
Dyck,  Portrait  of  'Sir  .  .  .  .  Shef- 
field' (thus  catalogued  in  accor- 
dance with  the  coat-of-arms  in  the 
corner);  207.  Frans  Francken  Junr. 
and  Fr.  Pourbus  Jr.,  Ball  at  the  court  of  the  archducal  pair,  Albert 
and  Isabella,  about  1615;  *i97.  H.  van  Balen  the  Younger  and 
J.  Brueghel,  Sacrifice  to  Cybele ;  224.  David  Teniers  the  Younger, 
Alchemist;  *216.  Rubens,  Adam  and  Eve  in  Eden,  the  animals  by 
Jan  Brueghel]  *i98.  H.  van  Balen  the  Younger  and  F.  Brueghel, 
Naiads;  *240.  Hans  Holbein  the  Younger,  Portrait  of  a  man,  an  ex- 
cellent specimen  of  his  later  style  (1542);  *238.  Holbein,  Portrait 
of  Robert  Cheseman  holding  a  falcon  (1533)  ;  After  Holbein,  237. 
Portrait,  239.  Portrait  of  Jane  Seymour,  wife  of  Henry  YIII.  — 
Over  the  chimney-piece:  37d.  A.  Hanneman,  Six  separate  me- 
dallions of  the  Huygens  family,  in  the  centre,  Constantyn  the 
statesman  and  poet,  above,  Christiaen  (1640),  the  famous  savant. 
—  *221.  Frans  Snyders,  Kitchen  with  game  and  vegetables,  the 
figure  by  Rubens;  225.  Eg.  van  Tilborg,  Dinner;  226bis,  W.  Bos- 
schaert, Venus  and  Adonis  ;  206bis.  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  Andr. 
Colyns  de  Nole,  a  sculptor  of  Antwerp ;  217.  Old  copy  after  Rubens, 
Parting  of  Yenus  and  Adonis. 

Room  II.  To  the  left :  *206.  Van  Dyck,  Portrait  of  the  Antwerp 
painter  Quintyn  Simons,  one  of  the  finest  portraits  painted  by  the 
master  before  he  went  to  England ;  19bis.  Cornelis  van  Haarlem, 
Marriage  of  Peleus  and  Thetis;  13.  Abr.  Bloemaert,  Hippomenes 
and  Atalanta;  225^i3.  M.  van  Valckenborg  the  Younger  and  J. 
Francken,  Alexander  the  Great  visiting  Apelles,  with  sketches  of 


Rubens 

III 

and  Van  Dyck. 

II 

IV 

- 

Ve 

Stibl 

= 

1 ' 

lie. 

V 

264      Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Picture 

several  famous  paintings;  38.  J.  D,  de  Heem,  Flowers  and  fruit; 
*213,  *214.  Rubens,  Isabella  Brant  and  Helena  Fourment,  the  ma- 
ster's first  and  second  wives,  both  admirably  excuted  :  34b.  Hend. 
Goltzius,  Hercules;  113e.  J.  van  Ravesteyn,  Portrait;  220.  D.  Se- 
ghers ,  Flowers;  *95.  Ant.  More  (Sir  Anthony  More),  Portrait; 
201.  Phil,  de  Champaigne,  Portrait  of  Jacob  Govaerts;  202.  Gon- 
zales Cocx  or  Coques ,  Interior  of  a  picture-gallery  with  numerous 
small  pictures  by  diiferent  artists;  219.  D.  Seghers,  Flowers;  *215. 
Rubens ,  Portrait  of  his  confessor  Michael  Ophovius ,  afterwards 
Bishop  of  Bois-le-Duc. 

Room  I.  243.  Rottenhammer,  Meeting  of  David  and  Abigail ; 
225ter.  2^7-.  Floris,  Venus  and  Adonis  ;  113y,  113f.  J.  van  Ravesteyn, 
Portraits;  246.  2?o«en/iommcr,  Phaeton ;  40bis,  40ter.  Marten  Heems- 
kerck  van  Veen,  Nativity,  and  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  on  the  back, 
Annunciation;  34a.  H.  Goltzius,  Mercury;  208a.  Ab.  Govaerts, 
Landscape;  19.  Cornelis,  Massacre  of  the  Innocents;  34c.  H. 
Goltzius,  Minerva;  126.  R.  Savery,  Orpheus;  140.  H.  van  Steen- 
ivyk,  Open  place;  210a.  //.  Jordaens,  Israelites  crossing  the  Ked 
Sea;  211.  P.  Neeffs  and  F.  Francken,  Church-interior. 

In  the  side-room  A,  on  the  right :  in  the  middle,  *226.  Roger  van 
der  Weyden,  Descent  from  the  Cross ;  on  the  walls :  Jac.  Cornelisz, 
19d.  Triptych,  19c.  Daughter  of  Herodias  witb  the  head  of  John 
the  Baptist;  231,  232,233.  B.  Behaim,  Portraits  of  Elizabeth,  Maxi- 
milian, and  Anna  of  Austria  when  children. 

Rooms  IV.  &  V. :  Portraits  of  Princes  of  the  House  of  Orange, 
their  relatives,  and  other  celebrated  personages.  —  In  Room  IV. 
are  several  *Portraits  ^ay  Ravesteyn ;  also  15.  16.  F.Bol,  Admiral  de 
Ruyter  and  his  son ;  127.  G.  Schalcken,  William  III.  of  England ; 
247 f.  Tischbein,  Princess  Wilhelmina  of  Orange.  —  In  Room  V. 
Slquater.  G.  van  Honthorst,  The  Great  Elector  of  Brandenburg  and 
his  consort  Louisa  Henrietta;  92bis,  J,  A.  Mytens,  Princess;  82. 
Mich,  van  Mierevelt,  William  the  Silent;  253a.  Unknoivn  Artist, 
The  three  brothers  Coligny ;  *192.  Unknown  Artist,  AVilliam  the 
Silent;  *96,  *97.  P.  Moreelse,  Countess  of  Hanau,  Countess  of 
Arenberg;  44a.  P.  van  Hilligaert,  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange  and 
his  retinue.  —  On  the  staircase  are  several  paintings  by  J.  van 
Ravesteyn  and  two  by  ^16.  van  den  Tempel. 

First  Floor.  —  Antk-Room  (VI.),  beginning  with  the  left 
wall ,  at  the  window :  136.  Jan  Steen,  Physician  feeling  a  young 
lady's  pulse. 

*124.  Jacob  van  Ruysdael,  Distant  view  of  Haarlem. 

'The  foreground  is  occupied  by  a  level  meadow,  on  which  long  strips 
of  linen  are  being  bleached.  The  houses  in  connection  with  the  bleaching- 
green  stand  towards  the  left.  Beyond,  stretching  to  the  horizon,  is  a 
monotonous  plain,  almost  totally  destitute  of  trees  or  dwellings,  and  in 
the  extreme  distance  are  distinguishable  the  town  and  church  of  Haarlem. 
And  all  these  miles  of  landscape  are  represented  on  a  little  canvas,  only 
18  in.  high!'  Burger. 


Gallery. 


THE  HAGUE. 


38.  Route.    265 


137.  Jan  Steen,  The  doctor's  visit ;  47.  Melchior  d' Hondecoeter,  The 
'Raven  in  peacock's  feathers";  *123.  Jac.  van  Ruysdael,  The  beach; 
*74:.  G.  Metsu,  Lady  writing,  a  man  behind  her,  and  a  mandolin- 
player  in  the  background;  179.  J.  Wynants,  Yiew  on  the  dunes; 
37b.  and  37c.  Fr.  Hals,  Portraits  of  J.  Olycan  and  his  wife  (1625); 
between  these,  180a.  E.  de  Wiite.,  Church-interior;  no  number, 
V.  van  Goyen,  Yiew  of  Dordrecht;  52.  S.  van  Hoogstraeten,  Lady 
reading;  93c.  J.  M.  Molenaer,  Merry  party;  128,  Schalcken,  Young 
woman  putting  on  earrings;  105a.  J.  Duck.  Officer;  132.  Sonje, 
Landscape;  143.  Van  Sw anew elt,  Italian  landscape;  lA.  Bloemaert, 
Marriage  of  Peleus;  46a.  Gysbert  d'Hondecoeier ,  Cock  and  hens; 
168ter.  Ad.  van  de  Venne.  Brawling  peasants;  140bi3.  Stoop,  Con- 
vent of  Belem,  near  Lisbon;  41a.  J.  van  der  Heyden,  Still-life; 
106a.  Chr.  Pierson,  Portrait;  36.  J.  van  der  Hagen,  Landscape; 
bi.  Huchtenburg  ,  The  sally;  33.  Caesar  van  Everdingen,  Diogenes 
'seeking  for  a  man'  in  Haarlem  market-place,  with  portraits  of 
Grand  Pensionary  Steyn  and  his  family;  131a.  Slabbaert,  Soldier; 
46.  G.  Houckgeest,  Tomb  of  William  I.  at  Delft  (p.  257);  55. 
Huchtenburg,  Fight;  133.  Soolmaker,  Italian  landscape;  37.  J.  van 
der  Hagen,  Landscape;  70.  Jan 
Lingelbach,  Charles  II.  embarking 
for  England;  9.  Nicholas  Berchem, 
Pastoral  scene,  of  unusual  size; 
*89.  J.  de  Heem ,  Flowers  and 
fruit;  69.  Jan  Lingelbach,  Prince 
"William  II.  of  Orange  before  Am- 
sterdam(1650);  no  number,  *A.van 
Beyeren,  Flowers;  51ter.  (j.  ^an 
Honthorst,  Child  plucking  fruit; 
*184.  Phil.  Wouverman,  *Un 
manege  en  pleine  campagne'  (an 
equestrian  puts  his  steed  through 
its  paces,  before  a  lady  seated  in 
a  carriage  drawn  by  six  grey  horses);  3.  W.  van  Aelst ,  Dead 
poultry;  16.  F.  Bol,  Portrait;  53.  Huchienburg,  Prince  Eugene  of 
Savoy.  —  Among  the  busts  we  may  mention  that  of  William  the 
Silent,  by  Hendrik  de  Keyser  (No.  3). 

RoomYIL  (comp.  Plan).  To  the  right:  *61.  Th.  de  Keyser, 
Portrait  of  a  magistrate  (1631);  98l)is.  Paul  Moreelse,  Portrait  of 
himself.  —  No  number,  ^Rembrandt ,  Portrait  of  Saskia  his  wife, 
on  paper  (1637 ;  lent  to  the  museum  by  Dr.  A.  Bredius)  ;  177,  178. 
Westerbaen,  Geesteranus,  the  preacher,  and  his  wife. 

**115.  Rembrandt's  celebrated  School  of  Anatomy,  painted  for 
the  Amsterdam  guild  of  surgeons  in  1632,  and  intended  to  adorn 
the  Dissecting  Room  ('Snykamcr')  at  Amsterdam  along  with  other 
pictures  of  a  similar  nature  (see  p.  Iv).  These,  however,  whether 
of  later  or  earlier  date ,  have  been  completely  eclipsed  and  con- 


X 

Potter 

XIII 

Rembr. 

Anatomy 

VII 

VIII 

VI 

XI 

XII 

266     Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Picture 

signed  to  oblivion  by  this  masterly  group  of  portraits.  Burger 
has  justly  characterised  this  picture  as  the  truest  and  most  lifelike 
representation  of  the  'working  of  intellect'  ever  produced.  The 
painting  remained  among  those  mentioned  at  p.  326  till  1828, 
when  it  was  purchased  by  King  William  I.  for  32,000  fl. 

'This  picture  represents  the  celebrated  anatomist  Nicolaus  Tulp,  a 
friend  and  patron  of  Rembrandt,  in  a  vaulted  saloon,  engaged  in  ex- 
plaining the  anatomy  of  the  arm  of  a  corpse.  He  wears  a  blaCk  cloak 
with  a  lace  collar,  and  a  broad-brimmed  soft  hat.  "With  his  half-raised 
left  hand  he  makes  a  gesture  of  explanation,  while  with  his  right  he  is 
dissecting  a  sinew  of  the  arm  of  his  subject.  The  corpse  lies  on  a  table 
before  him.  To  the  right  of  Tulp  is  a  group  of  five  figures;  and  two 
other  men  are  sitting  at  the  table  in  front.  These  listeners  are  not 
students,  but  members  of  the  guild  of  surgeons  of  Amsterdam,  as  shown 
by  a  paper  held  by  one  of  them.  They  are  attending  to  the  lecture  with 
very  various  expressions.  They  are  all  bare-headed,  dressed  in  black, 
and  with  turned-over  collars,  except  one  who  still  wears  the  old-fashioned, 
upright  ruff.  There  are  perhaps  other  persons  present  in  the  hall ,  as 
Tulp  appears  to  be  looking  beyond  the  picture,  as  if  about  to  address 
an  audience  not  visible  to  the  spectator;  and  it  is  here  worthy  of  remark 
that  Rembrandfs  compositions  are  never  imprisoned  in  their  frames,  but 
convey  an  idea  of  a  wide  space  beyond  them.  It  is  somewhat  singular 
that  the  spectator  seems  hardly  to  notice  the  corpse  lying  before  him  at 
full  length,  the  feet  of  which  he  can  almost  touch,  although  it  is  strongly 
lighted  in  contrast  to  the  surrounding  black  garments  and  most  faith- 
fully presents  the  peculiar  hue  of  a  dead  body,  leaving  no  doubt  that  it 
was  painted  from  nature  as  well  as  the  living  heads.  The  admirable 
art  of  the  composition  consists  in  its  power  of  riveting  the  attention  to 
the  living  in  the  presence  of  death.  The  painting  is  signed  at  the  top, 
'■Renibrant  f.  1632\  Burger.  Musses  de  la  Hollande. 

*118.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  himself  (as  an  officer);  *G2. 
Thomas  de  Keyser,  The  four  burgomasters  of  Amsterdam  receiving 
the  news  of  the  arrival  of  Marie  de  Medicis  (1638^,  perhaps  merely 
a  sketch  for  a  larger  work,  but  painted  with  great  vigour;  *32.  Sal. 
Koninck,  Adoration  of  the  Kings ;  65c.  P.  Lastman,  Raising  of 
Lazarus  (1632).    Opposite,  third  wall:  — 

*104.  Adrian  van  Ostade,  Cottage-interior,  with  eight  figures, 
assembled  for  the  purpose  of  smoking,  singing,  and  drinking, 
or  Worship  of  Bacchus  and  Apollo  (1662)  ;  188.  Ph.  Wouverman, 
Hunters  resting;  102,  103.  C.  Netscher,  Portraits  of  M.  and  Mme. 
vanWaalwyk;  58.  Dujardin,  Italian  landscape ;  *112.  Paul  Potter, 
'La  Vache  qui  se  mire',  a  herd  of  cattle  by  a  river,  with  the  form 
of  a  cow  reflected  by  the  water  in  the  foreground,  and  men  bathing 
behind  (1648);  117.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  himself,  painted  about 
1630  (similar  studies  at  Cassel,  Gotha,  and  Nuremberg);  17.  J. 
Both,  Italian  landscape. 

*165.  Adrian  van  de  Velde,  Beach  at  Scheveningen,  enlivened 
with  charming  groups  of  figures,  and  an  aerial  perspective  perhaps 
unequalled  by  the  painter  in  any  other  work  ;  167.  W.  van  de  Velde 
the  Younger,  The  Y  at  Amsterdam ;  *185.  Phil.  Wouverman,  Land- 
scape, known  as  the  'Hay  Cart'. 

*105.   Adrian  van  Ostade,  The  Fiddler. 

An  itinerant  fiddler,  standing  in  front  of  an  old  and  weather-beaten 
house,  is  delighting  a  numerous  audience  with  his  skill.    The  representa- 


Gallery.  THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route.    267 

tion  of  the  scene  in  the  open  air  has  given  the  artist  an  opportunity  of 
introducing  the  most  varied  eflects  of  the  reflection  of  light.  Few^  of 
Ostade's  works  can  compare  with  this  in  freshness  of  composition  and 
finish  of  execution.  It  was  painted  in  1673,  when  the  artist  was  in  his 
sixty-third  year. 

99.  Moucheron,  Italian  landscape,  fignres  by  Lingelbach ;  101. 
C.  Netscher,  The  painter  with  his  wife  and  daughter  (1665);  121. 
Ruysch.  Flowers. 

Room  YIII.  On  the  right:  64.  Ph.  Koninck.,  Month  of  a  river  ; 
12.  Nicolas  Berchem,  Cavalry  attack ;  174.  J.  Weenix ,  Hunter's 
Booty;  G.Metsu.  75.  Justice  protecting  the  widow  and  the  orphan, 
73.  Hunter;  *113.  Paul  Potter,  Landscape  with  cows  and  pigs. 

**114.  Rembrandt,  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  usually  called 
in  Holland  'Simeon  in  the  Temple',  the  earliest  important  com- 
position of  the  artist  known,  painted  in  1631,  soon  after  he  settled 
at  Amsterdam. 

'In  the  middle  of  the  Temple,  the  fantastic  architecture  of  which  is 
lost  in  the  darkness,  the  light  is  concentrated  on  a  group  of  seven  per- 
sons. Simeon  with  eyes  raised  towards  heaven  ,  and  wearing  a  robe 
glittering  with  gold,  is  represented  kneeling,  with  the  infant  Christ  in 
his  arms;  the  Madonna,  in  a  light  blue  robe,  with  folded  hands  is  also 
kneeling;  while  Joseph  on  his  knees  offers  the  sacrificial  doves.  A  little 
to  the  left,  as  a  counterpoise  to  Simeon,  is  the  high-priest,  with  a  long 
flowing  robe,  and  almost  turning  his  back  to  the  spectator,  raising  his 
right  hand,  which  gleams  in  the  strongest  light,  in  an  attitude  of  bene- 
diction. Behind  the  Virgin  are  two  rabbis.  To  the  left,  in  the  back- 
ground of  the  aisles,  several  groups  are  observed  in  the  twilight,  and  to 
the  right  in  the  chiaroscuro  are  a  number  of  people  ascending  and 
descending  a  stair.  On  the  same  side,  quite  in  the  foreground,  are  two 
venerable  old  men  sitting  on  a  bench.  The  back  of  the  bench  bears  the 
monogram  R.  H.  (Rembrandt  Harmensz)  and  the  date  1631.  This  ad- 
mirable little  work,  of  the  master's  earliest  period,  already  exhibits  the 
bold  touch  and  the  striking  effects  for  which  Rembrandt  is  famous ,  but 
the  Madonna,  who  stands  in  the  full  light,  is  somewhat  cold  and  insigni- 
ficant in  character".  Burger.  Musses  de  la  Hollande. 

*116.  Rembrandt,  Susanna,  on  the  point  of  stepping  into  her 
bath,  is  alarmed  by  the  presenoe  of  the  two  elders  (of  whom  one 
only  is  distinguishable  in  the  shrubbery),  painted  in  1637. 

Placed  by  the  side  of  the  School  of  Anatomy  and  the  Simeon,  the 
merits  of  this  work  are  too  often  overlooked.  Yet  Susanna,  strongly 
relieved  against  a  dark  background,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  female 
figures  ever  painted  by  Rembrandt,  being  remarkably  faithful  to  nature, 
though  not  of  classic  beauty.  In  all  probability  the  painter's  wife  Saskia 
stood  to  him  as  a  model 

18.  Jan  and  Andries  Both,  Italian  scene  ;  59.  J.  Luck,  Spinner; 
*28.    G.  Dou,  The  young  housekeeper. 

A  lady  with  a  child  in  the  cradle,  and  an  attendant,  a  carefully-exe- 
cuted picture.  The  work,  also  known  as  'The  Household',  is  one  of  the 
gems  of  the  collection,  and  is  of  equal  merit  with  the  celebrated  'Drop- 
sical Lady'  in  the  Louvre.     It  is  dated  165S. 

170.  A.  de  Vols,  Huntsman  ;  8f.  J.  Bellevois,  View  of  Gorinchem. 
—  At  the  first  window:  Frans  van  Mieris  the  Elder,  86.  Portrait  of 
Professor  Florentius  Schuyl  of  Leyden,  85.  Soap-bubbles.  29.  Ger. 
Dou ,  Woman  with  a  lamp  ;  *87.  Frans  van  Mieris  the  Elder,  The 
artist  and  his  wife.    At  the  second  window:   134.  Jan  Steen,  The 


268   Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Museum. 

(dentist;  *164.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Wooded  landscape  with  cattle,  a 
small  picture,  full  of  life  and  charming  in  colour. 

Second  Wall:  *182.  Ph.  Wouverman,  The  Departure;  41.  Jan 
van  der  Heyde,  View  of  a  town ,  the  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde ; 
*72.  Jan  Ver  Meer,  usually  called  Van  der  Meet  of  Delft ,  View 
of  Delft;  Ph.  Wouverman,  *181.  The  Arrival;  186.  Large  battle- 
piece ;  8d.  A.  Begein,  Quarry;  SSl^is.  A.  de  Gelder,  Judah  and 
Tamar;  180.  J.  Wynants,  View  of  the  dunes,  figures  by  Lingelbach. 

Third  Wall:  40.  Corn,  de  Heem,  Fruit;  169.  Hendrik  Willemsz 
van  Vliet ,  Interior  of  the  Oude  Kerk  at  Delft;  71.  N.  Maes,  Por- 
trait of  a  man;  98.  F.  Mouchcron  and  A.  van  de  Vtlde,  Italian 
scene;  120.  Ruysch,  Flowers. 

Room  IX.  (comp.  Plan,  p.  265).  On  the  right:  45.  Houckgeest, 
Interior  of  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  at  Delft.  —  *139.  Jan  Steen,  Guest- 
chamber  in  the  painter's  brewery. 

This  work  is  also  sometimes  styled  a  'picture  of  human  life',  many 
persons  being  of  opinion  that  Steen  painted  scenes  of  conviviality  with 
the  same  moralising  tendency  as  Hogarth,  for  the  purpose  of  rebuking 
human  follies  and  vices.  The  picture  contains  about  twenty  persons. 
While  the  elders  are  enjoying  their  oysters,  the  children  are  playing  with 
a  dog  and  cat.  Jan  Steen  himself  plays  a  merry  air,  while  a  young 
woman  is  looking  towards  him,  and  a  portly  boor"  is  laughing,  glass  in 
hand.     In  the  background  are  card-players  and  smokers. 

21.  A.  Cuyp,  Portrait  of  Mr.  de  Roovere,  overseer  of  the 
salmon-fisheries  at  Dort ;  66.  Jan  Livens,  Old  man  with  a  beard ; 
48.  Melchior  d'Hondecoeter ,  Menagerie  of  Prince  William  III.  at 
the  Chateau  of  Loo ;  187.  Ph.  Wouverman,  Camp ;  *145.  Gerard 
Terburg,  Portrait  of  the  artist  as  burgomaster  of  Deventer;  *122. 
Jac.  van  Ruysdael,  Waterfall ;  *42.  Earth,  van  der  Heist,  Portrait 
of  Paul  Potter,  the  animal-painter. 

*111.  Paul  Potter's  far-famed  Bull ,  the  most  popular  picture 
in  the  collection,  remarkable  as  one  of  the  few  animal-pieces  which 
the  master  painted  on  so  large  a  scale  (1647). 

The  picture  was  carried  off  to  Paris  by  the  French,  and  was  regarded 
as  fourth  in  point  of  value  among  all  the  pictures  in  the  Louvre.  The 
three  which  ranked  before  it  were  Raphaers  Transfiguration,  Domeni- 
chino's  Communion  of  St.  Jerome,  and  Titian's  Martyrdom  of  St.  Peter. 
This  celebrated  picture  was  purchased  in  1749  for  630  fl.,  but  before  it 
was  restored  by  the  French  the  Dutch  government  offered  60.000  fl.  to 
Ifapoleon  for  its  restoration.  Much,  however,  as  the  bull,  which  has  a 
cow,  a  sheep  and  lamb,  a  ram,  and  a  shepherd  as  companions,  has  been 
praised,  it  must  in  candour  be  admitted  that  several  of  the  master's 
smaller  animal-pieces  are  more  attractive  and  perfect.  The  large  animals 
in  this  work  are  in  too  strong  relief,  and  the  light  is  distributed  somewhat 
monotonously  over  the  whole  picture  without  being  softened  by  inter- 
mediate tones. 

At  the  first  window:  110a.  H.  G.  Pot,  Merry  company;  no 
number,  P.  Mulier,  Mouth  of  a  river;  18aaa.  P.  Codde,  Soldiers 
playing  backgammon;  35a.  J.  Hackaert,  Landscape;  189.  Ph. 
Wouverman,  Huntsmen  resting,  a  specimen  of  his  earlier  style. 

At  the  centre  window:  68.  Lingelbach,  Landscape  with  hay- 
cart;  183.  Ph.  Wouverman,  Hawking;  10.  N.  Berchem,  Boar-hunt, 


Gallery.  THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route.     269 

178a.  Th.  Wyk,  Alchemist.  —  At  the  third  window:  [lla.  J.  van 
Ruysdael  and  Ph.   Wouverman^  View  of  the  Yyverherg  (^p.  2711. 

Third  wall:  11.  A".  Berchem.  The  ford,  Italian  landscape.  — 
*135.  Jan  Steen,  Poultry-yard,  known  as  the  Menagerie  (1660). 

The  picture  represents  a  platform  with  several  steps  leading  to  a 
court  with  a  brook  flowing  through  it ,  and  an  old  leafless  tree  on  the 
right  with  a  peacock  on  one  of  its  branches.  Ducks  are  paddling  in  the 
water,  and  pigeons  and  fowls  picking  up  grain  from  the  ground.  On  one 
of  the  steps  sits  a  girl  with  a  saucer  ,  out  of  which  a  lamb  is  drinking. 
A  bald-headed  man-servant  with  a  basket  of  eggs  is  speaking  cheerfully 
with  her,  while  another  standing  on  the  platform  with  a  fowl  under  his 
arm  looks  at  her  laughingly.  The  last  is  a  remarkably  characteristic  and 
life-like  figure. 

168.  W.  vande  Veldethe  Younger,  Calm  sea  with  shipping ;  173. 
Jan  Weenix,  Dead  swan,  natural  size;  22.  Dirk  van  Deelen  and  Ant. 
Palamedesz,  Hall  of  the  Binnenhof  during  the  grand  assembly  of  the 
States  General  in  1651.  —  To  the  left  of  the  entrance:  50,  49. 
Hondecoeter,  Hens,  Ducks;  L,  Bakhuysen,  6.  Dutch  seaport,  5. 
William  III.  of  England  disembarking  at  the  Orange  Polder  on  his 
return  from  England  in  1692;  106.  A.  de  Pape.  Old  woman  pluck- 
ing a  fowl. 

*138.  Jan  Steen,  Portrait  of  himself  and  his  family,  an  unusu- 
ally large  picture  for  this  master,  boldly  and  energetically  painted 
in  his  best  style. 

'The  worthy  Jan  Steen  has  here  assembled  his  whole  family  around 
him.  The  group  consists  of  eleven  persons.  The  principal  place  at  the 
table  is  of  course  occupied  by  Jan  himself,  a  figure  with  long  hair  and 
a  broad  hat,  laughing  and  smoking,  and  apparently  about  to  drink.  On  his 
left  is  his  wife,  a  corpulent  lady  in  a  blue  fur-trimmed  velvet  jacket, 
filling  a  pipe,  which  one  is  almost  tempted  to  think  is  for  her  own  use. 
Jan's  aged  mother,  to  the  left  in  front ,  is  dandling  a  grandchild  on  her 
knees,  while  his  father  by  the  fireside,  in  spectacles,  is  singing  from  a 
sheet  of  music  accompanied  on  the  flute  by  Jan's  eldest  son,  a  handsome 
lad,  almost  grown  up.  In  the  immediate  foreground  are  a  dog,  some  copper 
utensils,  and  a  mortar  on  which  the  master  has  placed  his  signature". 

Burger.  Musses  de  la  HoUande. 

*144.  Gerard  Terburg,  'The  Dispatch'. 

An  officer  holds  a  letter  which  appears  to  have  been  delivered  to  him 
by  a  trumpeter.  This  picture,  also  called  'The  Interruption',  is  one  of 
the  most  charming  works  of  the  master,  full  of  life  and  expression,  and 
rivalling  the  famed  'Paternal  Admonition'  at  Amsterdam.  It  is  unfortun- 
ately much  darkened  by  age. 

Cabinet  X  (to  the  left).  147-161.  Corn.  Troost,  Fifteen  draw- 
ings in  chalk,  illustrating  the  customs  of  the  early  18th  cent.,  and 
of  little  artistic  value ;  247  f.,  247  g.    Tischbein,  Crayon  portraits. 

Cabinet  XIII  (to  the  right).  N.Moeyaert,  93  a.  Train  of  Bacchus. 
93b.  Mercury  and  Hersa  ;  166.  E.  van  de  Velde,  Banquet;  113a.  P. 
Potter  (father  of  the  animal  painter),  Pastoral  scene  ;  20.  A.  van 
Cuylenborch,  Diana  and  nymphs;  70a.  Backer,  Portrait;  20.  Drooch 
Shoot,  Village  fair;  168d.  D.  Vinckboons ,  Village  fair;  18aa.  P. 
Codde,  Dancers;  63.  Kerincx,  Landscape;  107bis.  G.  Pinas,  Cru- 
cifixion: 8bb.  S.  van  Beest,  Market- scene. 


270     Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Buitenhof. 

Room  XI.  (comp.  tlie  Plan,  p.  265),  beginning  to  the  left  of 
the  door:  No.  292.  Fabr.  Santafede  (d.  1634),  Holy  Family  and 
St.  Elizabeth  ;  298.  School  of  Titian,  Madonna  and  Child  with  St. 
Catharine ;  257.  School  of  Velazquez,  Portrait  of  the  Infante  Charles 
Balthazar ,  son  of  Philip  IV.  of  Spain  ;  274.  Cignani ,  Adam  and 
Eve;  289,  290.  Salvator  Rosa(?J,  Monks  praying;  280.  Lodovico 
Mazzolino,  Massacre  of  the  Innocents. 

Room  XII.,  beginning  to  the  right  of  the  door  :  277a.  Marcello 
Fagolino,  Madonna  and  saints;  255.  After  Murillo,  Madonna;  253. 
C.  J.  Vernet,  Waterfall;  267.  P.  da  Cortona,  Holy  Family; 
316quater.  Florentine  School,  Portrait  of  Giuliano  da  Sangallo.  the 
architect. 

The  Plein  (PI.  E,  5),  an  extensive  square  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  Mauritshuis  ,  is  adorned  with  the  Statue  of  Prince  William  I. 
(PI.  46),  in  bronze,  by  Royer,  erected  in  1848.  The  statue  is  re- 
presented with  one  finger  slightly  raised,  in  allusion  to  his  well- 
known  taciturnity.  His  favourite  motto ,  ^saevis  tranquillus  in 
undis\  and  the  dedication  of  the  monument  by  Hhe  grateful  people 
to  the  father  of  their  fatherland' ,  are  inscribed  on  the  pedestal. 
At  the  W.  angle  of  the  Plein  is  the  Colonial  Office  (PI.  40),  and  ad- 
joining it  on  the  S.,  with  an  entrance-court  and  portico,  is  the  Hooge 
i?aad  (PL  15).  In  the  S.  angle  is  the  office  of  the  Ministry  of  Justice 
(PI.  39),  a  handsome  new  building  of  brick  and  white  stone,  in 
the  Dutch  Renaissance  style  (admission  after  4  p.m.).  Opposite  rises 
the  War  Office  (PI.  42),  which  in  the  time  of  the  Republic  was  the 
residence  of  the  deputies  from  Rotterdam.  On  the  N.E.  stands  the 
handsome  edifice  which  at  present  contains  the  National  Archives 
(PI.  61),  formerly  the  house  of  the  Amsterdam  deputies.  The  most 
interesting  document  in  the  collection  is  a  copy  of  the  Peace  of 
Westphalia  (1648).  —  On  the  N.W.  is  the  club-house  of  the  Witte 
or  Litteraire  Societeit  (PI.  71),  to  which  strangers  are  only  admitted 
when  introduced  by  a  member.  Not  far  off  stands  the  Municipal  Mu- 
seum (p.  272). 

The  Buitenhof  (PI.  D,  5),  a  large  open  space  adjoining  the 
Binnenhof  on  the  S.  W.,  and  also  bounded  on  the  N.  side  by  the 
Vy ver ,  is  adorned  with  a  mediocre  Statue  of  William  II.  (PI.  45; 
d.  1849)  in  bronze,  erected  in  1853.  —  On  the  S.  side  is  a. Passage, 
or  arcade  (opened  in  1885),  in  the  Dutch  Renaissance  style, 
leading  to  the  Spuistraat ;  it  is  185  yds.  long,  7  yds.  wide,  65  ft. 
high,  with  a  cupola,  80  ft.  high,  over  the  middle,  and  contains  a 
hotel,  a  cafe',  and  several  attractive  shops. 

The  Gevangenpoort  (PI.  12;  D,  4)  is  an  ancient  tower  with  a 
gateway  leading  (N.)  from  the  Buitenhof  to  the  Plaats.  In  1672 
Cornelis  de  Witt,  who  was  falsely  accused  of  a  conspiracy  against 
the  life  of  the  stadtholder  William  III.  ,  was  imprisoned  here. 
His  brother  John  de  Witt,  the  Grand  Pensionary,  hearing  that  his 


Town  Hall.  THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route.     271 

brother  was  in  danger ,  hastened  to  the  tower  to  afford  him  pro- 
tection. The  infuriated  populace,  who  had  been  induced  by  the 
enemies  of  the  two  brothers  to  believe  in  their  guilt,  availed 
themselves  of  this  opportunity,  and,  having  forced  their  way  into 
the  prison,  seized  the  persons  of  their  ill-fated  victims,  whom  they 
literally  tore  to  pieces  with  savage  cruelty  (comp.  p.  xxxiii).  The 
brothers  are  buried  in  the  Nieuwe  Kerk.  The  old  prison,  in  which 
a  collection  of  instruments  of  torture  has  been  formed,  is  open 
daily,  free,  from  10  (Sundays  and  holidays  12.  30)  to  4.  A  little 
farther  to  the  N.  lie  the  Plaats  and  the  Vyverberg,  see  below. 

Adjoining  the  Buitenhof  on  the  S."W.  is  the  Groenmarkt,  and 
beyond  it  the  Vischmarkt  (PI.  C,  6). 

The  *Towii  Hall  (PI.  62),  built  in  1565,  restored  by  VanBassen 
about  1647,  enlarged  in  1734  by  the  addition  of  the  N.  wing,  and 
again  restored  and  extended  in  1882-83,  stands  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  Vischmarkt.  This  picturesque  building  is  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting of  its  class  in  Holland.  It  belongs  to  the  beginning  of 
the  period  in  which  the  flowing  forms  that  characterise  the  later 
Dutch  architecture  came  into  vogue  (comp.  pp.  280,  286).  The 
two  side-facades  probably  owe  some  of  their  remarkable  architectonic 
features  to  the  influence  of  the  mediaeval  patrician  house  of  the 
Brederode,  which  previously  occupied  the  site.  The  statues  of 
Justice  and  Prudence  on  the  main  fagade  are  by  J.  B.  Xavery.  The 
S.  entrance,  opposite  the  Nieuwe  Straat,  leads  to  a  vestibule,  which 
contains  the  bench  of  the  old  sheriff's  court  ('Schepenenbank')  and 
three  paintings  by  Willem  Doudyns,  representing  the  Judgment 
of  Solomon. 

The  Groote  Kerk  (PI.  C,  5),  or  Church  of  St.  James,  is  a  Gothic 
edifice  of  the  15-16th  cent.,  with  a  hexagonal  tower,  surmounted  by 
a  modern  iron  spire.  The  interior,  which  is  finely  vaulted,  contains 
a  few  monuments ,  among  them  that  of  Admiral  Obdam,  who  fell 
in  1665  in  a  naval  engagement  with  the  English  in  the  Somid,  by 
Eggers ;  and  also  some  stained  glass  of  1547.  In  the  sacristy  are  the 
remains  of  an  alabaster  monument  of  a  Mynheer  van  Assendelft  (d. 
1486)  and  his  wife.  The  carved  wooden  pulpit  (1550)  and  the 
frames  of  the  coats-of-arms  of  some  knights  of  the  Golden  Fleece, 
placed  in  the  choir  after  the  chapter  of  1456,  also  deserve  notice. 
The  large  new  organ,  built  in  1881,  is  fine.  The  sacristan  lives  at 
Kerkplein  8,  adjoining  the  Post  Office  (25  c).  Fine  view  from  the 
tower  (25  c). 

To  the  S.,  opposite  the  Groote  Kerk,  is  the  covered  Fish  Market 
(PI.  69;  C,  5),  the  rendezvous  of  the  fish-women  of  Scheveningen. 
Several  storks  (a  bird  which  figures  in  the  armorial  bearings  of  the 
town)  are  maintained  in  the  court  at  the  public  expense. 


Along  the  N.  side  of  the  Vyver  (p.  261)   extends  the  shady 
Vtvbeberg  ,  which  is  continued  on  the  E.  by  the  Tournooiveld 


272     38  Route.  THE  HAGUE.    Steengrachi  Collection. 

(PI.  D,  E,  4).  In  the  latter,  at  the  corner  of  the  Korte  Vyverberg, 
once  occupied  by  the  Scbastuinsdoelen  (built  in  1636),  is  the 
new  building  of  the  *Miinicipal  Museum  [^Haagsch  or  Gemeente 
Museum :  PI.  50),  which  contains  the  old  pictures  formerly  in  the 
Town  Hall,  and  also  numerous  good  modern  works.  Among  the  former 
are  several  corporation-pieces  by  Jan  van  Ravesteyn  (1572-1657), 
the  favourite  painter  of  the  Town  Council  and  fashionable  society 
of  the  Hague.  The  museum  is  open  on  weekdays  from  10  to  4 
(in  winter  till  3)  and  on  Sun.  and  holidays  from   1  to  4  (no  fees). 

Old  Pictures.  18.  OerHt  Berck-Heyde,  The  Vyverberg  in  1692;  no 
nvimber,  G.  Bevck-Heyde^  Plaats,  Gevungenpoort,  and  Binnenhof  (pp  270, 
261)  \  41,  42.  /.  van  Croos,  Landscapes  near  the  Hague  (small  paintings 
round  larger  ones) ;  49,  50.  Bubordieu,  Portraits;  "60.  JanvanOoyen^  View 
of  the  Hague ,  S.  side  of  the  town,  the  largest  (15  ft.  by  5V'.'  ft.)  and 
one  of  the  most  important  works  of  this  master,  who  knew  so  well  how 
to  pourtvay  the  autumnal  colouring  of  a  Dutch  landscape;  125.  Joachim 
Ilouckgeest  (first  half  of  the  17th  cent.),  An  ensign  of  the  green  banner  of 
the  house  of  Orange  ;  Mierevelt  the  Elder,  158,  159.  Prince  Frederick  Henry 
and  Princess  Amalia  of  Solms  (1634),  157.  William  the  Silent,  and  two 
other  portraits.  176.  Paul  Potter,  Bull  attacked  by  dogs  (1649);  132.  C. 
Janssens  van  Ceulen,  Magistrate  of  the  Hague  in  1647,  the  painter's  master- 
piece ;  *178.  Jan  van  Ravtsteyn,  Banquet  partaken  of  by  fourteen  town- 
councillors  and  nine  officers  of  the  Guild  of  Arquebusiers,  whose  Captain, 
according  to  the  annual  usage,  receives  the  'cup  of  welcome'  ('een  frissen 
roemer  metwyn');  the  costume  is  not  that  of  the  17th  cent.,  but  of  an 
earlier  period,  with  tall,  narrow-brimmed  hats  and  upright  rufTs,  and 
accords  well  with  the  grave  and  dignified  deportment  of  the  figures 
(dated  1618).  ~179.  Jan  van  Ravesteyn,  Twelve  members  of  the  town-council 
of  1636  in  half-figure ,  sitting  at  their  green  table ,  with  which  their 
black  dress  contrasts  admirably ;  the  only  colours  the  picture  contains  are 
green,  black,  and  the  flesh-tint  of  the  faces,  and  the  efi'ect  is  very  harmo- 
nious and  pleasing.  *177,  Jan  van  Ravesteyn,  Twenty-five  arquebusiers  of  the 
Guild  of  St.  Sebastian,  descending  the  staircase  of  the  Shooting-gallery 
('Doelen'),  engaged  in  animated  conversation  and  strikingly  life-like.  180. 
Jan  van  Ravesteyn,  Six  officers  of  the  white  arquebusiers  (1638);  228-231. 
Pieter  van  der  Werff,  Portraits;  110.  Portrait  of  Spinoza,  by  an  unknown 
painter.     Views  of  the  Hague,  etc. 

Modern  Pictures.  33.  J.  Bosboom,  Interior  of  St.  Peter's  Church  at 
Leyden;  35.  Henri  Bource,  Wives  and  children  of  Scheveningen  fishermen 
on  a  summer-evening;  69.  J.  Hanedoes,  Sunset  on  the  dunes  near  Haar- 
lem ;  129.  Van  Hove,  Interior  of  a  synagogue ;  133.  Ten  Kate,  ReckoningMay ; 
156.  Mesdag,  Sea-piece;  213.   Verveer,  Four  'old  salts'. 

The  museum  also  contains  a  collection  of  Antiquities  belonging  to 
the  town  (gla.'^ses,  porcelain,  medallions,  banners  of  the  guilds,  etc.). 

To  the  W.,  in  the  direction  of  the  Plaats,  Vyverberg  3,  is  the 
House  of  Baron  Steengracht  (PL  18;  D,4),  containing  a  fine  col- 
lection of  ancient  and  modern  paintings  arranged  in  three  saloons, 
to  which  all  lovers  of  art  are  liberally  admitted  in  the  absence  of  the 
owner  (10-4;  fee,  1  fl.).  Catalogues  are  distributed  throughout 
the  rooms. 

The  Modern  Pictdees,  of  the  French  and  Dutch  schools,  are  exhibited 
in  Room  I.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance.  Girdme,  Scene  in  the  Desert; 
Decamps^  Dogs  and  children;  Willems,  Lady  and  cavalier.  To  the  left  of 
the  entrance:  Verveer,  Canal  at  Amsterdam;  Horace  Vernet ,  The  last 
cartridge ;  Winterhalter,  Roman  women ;  Waldorp,  Sea-piece.  —  On  the 
opposite  wall:  " Meissonier ,  Soldiers  playing  cards;  Bougereau,  Girl  knit- 
ting; Blees,  By  the  cradle;  Landelle,  Girl  with  fruit;  Villegas,  Siesta.  — 
Back-wall,   to  the  left:   Meyer ^  Sea-piece;   Kohell,  Landscape  with  cattle; 


Kneuterdyk.  THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route.     273 

Verschuur,  Stable;  JToeJ,  Tavern;  Schelfhout,  Winter-scene  near  Haarlem; 
^''avez,  Roman  women;  ^Koekkoek,  In  the  forest. 

Among  the  'Ancient  Pictckes  are  specimens  of  the  chief  Dutch  masters 
of  the  17th  cent.,  some  of  them  being  cabinet-pieces  of  the  first  rank.  There 
are  in  all  upwards  of  80  works,  which  fill  the  two  following  rooms. 

Rooii  II.  On  the  left:  'Rembrandt ,  Bathsheba,  after  her  bath, 
watched  from  a  distance  by  King  David.  The  beautiful  Jewess  is  seated  on 
a  rug  in  a  thickly-wooded  park,  by  the  side  of  the  basin  in  which  she 
has  been  bathing;  beside  her  are  two  attendants.  The  arrangement  of 
the  picture  is  analogous  to  that  of  the  Susanna  in  the  Mauritshuis  (p.  2G7), 
but  this  work  is  the  finer  of  the  two.  The  chiaroscuro,  against  which, 
as  in  the  Susanna,  the  female  figure  stands  in  exquisite  relief,  is  treated 
in  the  most  masterly  style,  forcibly  recalling  the  famous  'Night  Watch' 
at  Amsterdam.  According  to  Vosmaer,  the  Bathsheba  was  painted  in 
1643 ,  less  than  a  year  after  the  completion  of  that  splendid  work.  —  As 
if  to  enhance  the  effect,  another  picture  is  hung  below  of  the  same  sub- 
ject by  Van  der  Werff^  whose  smooth  and  elegant  Bathsheba  almost  re- 
sembles a  wax  figure  when  compared  with  the  warm  and  life-like  crea- 
tion of  Rembrandt. 

Rubens,  Heads  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul;  A.  van  de  Velde ,  Cattle; 
Rubens,  Drunken  Bacchus ;  Alb.  Cuyp ,  Horse ;  Rubens ,  Infant  Christ ; 
Jordaens,  At  the  fountain;  Peter  de  Hooch,  Musical  party;  Earth,  van 
der  Heist,  Portraits  of  a  man  and  woman;  Th.  de  Keyser,  Portrait  of  a 
man;  Paul  Potter,  Three  cows;  Nic.  Maes,  Peasant  woman  making 
pancakes,  and  a  boy  eating  them. 

Room  III.  Right  wall,  beginning  at  the  window:  J.  van  Ruysdael, 
Waterfall;  ^.  I'a/J  Os^ade,  Interior  of  a  cottage ;  Terburg.,  Mother  dressing 
her  daughter's  hair;  Karel  du  Jardin,  Herd-boy  playing  with  his  dog;  Te- 
nters the  Younger,  The  Seven  Works  of  Mercy;  Jan  Steen,  The  painter 
and  his  family,  nearly  life-size,  an  unusually  large  work  for  this  master; 
Metsu,  Mother  with  a  sick  child;  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-piece;  Jan  Steen ^ 
Physician's  visit;  Ascribed  to  Rembrandt,  Mother  and  child. — Entrance- 
wall:  Allart  van  Everdingen ,  Waterfall;  A.  van  Ostade ,  Pig  driven  to 
market;  F.  Bol,  Portrait;  L.  Bakhuysen,  Sea-piece.  Third  wall:  C.  Net- 
scher ,  Two  portraits;  Adr.  Brouwer ,  Peasant  scene;  'Hobbema ,  Large 
landscape;  Th.  de  Keyser,  Lace-maker;  Fr.  van  Mieris,  Boy  with  a  cage; 
Mieris  and  Slingeland,  The  captive  mouse;  Ger.  Dou,  Portraits  of  a  man 
and  woman;  Arie  de  Vols,  Peasant  smoking;  A.  van  Ostade.,  Peasants. 
Also  numerous  landscapes. 

In  the  adjacent  square,  called  the  Kneutbrdyk  (PI.  C,  3) ,  is 
the  office  of  the  Minister  of  Finance  (PL  38),  originally  the  house 
of  Oldenbarueveld.  To  the  left  runs  the  Noordbinde  (PI.  C,  4,  3), 
with  the  Royal  Palace,  built  in  the  time  of  Stadtholder  William  III., 
and  containing  a  few  unimportant  family-paintings  (admission  only 
in  the  absence  of  the  royal  family). 

In  front  of  the  palace  stands  the  equestrian  *Statiie  of  Prince 
WiUiam  I.  of  Orange  (PI.  47),  in  bronze ,  designed  by  Count 
Nieuiverkerke,  and  erected  by  King  William  II.  in  1845.  On  the 
pedestal  are  the  arms  of  the  seven  provinces. 

Behind  the  statue  is  the  new  Paleisstraat,  leading  through  what 
was  once  the  garden  of  the  palace  to  the  Orangestraat.  Farther  on, 
to  the  right  in  the  Parkstraat,  is  the  new  Roman  Catholic  Church 
of  St.  James  (PI.  23  ;  D,  3 ),  built  by  P.  J.  H.  Cuypers.  The  Park- 
straat ends  at  the  Willems-Park  (p.  275). 

The  Kneuterdyk  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the  Langb  Voorhout 
(PI.  D,  E,  2),  a  square  surrounded  by  handsome  buildings  and 
planted  with  trees,  which,  along  with  the  Kneuterdyk  and  the  Noord- 

Ba£I>£Kee's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  18 


274     Route  38.  THE  HAGUE.  Library. 

einde,  forms  the  finest  quarter  of  the  town.  On  the  S.  side  is  the 
Navy  Office  (PI.  41 ;  D,  4),  Lange  Voorhout  7. 

Nearly  opposite,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Lange  Voorhout,  is  a  spacious 
edifice  (_No.  34),  built  by  Huguetan,  Louis  XIV's  banker,  containijig 
the  royal  Library  (PL  3;  E,  4),  open  to  the  public  on  week  days 
from  10  to  4,  and  on  Sun.  and  holidays  from  12  to  4.  It  contains 
about  400,000  volumes.  The  miniatures  in  the  prayer-book  of  Philippe 
le  Bon  of  Burgundy,  painted  in  grisaille  (1455-65),  are  of  great 
artistic  value;  several  of  them,  such  as  the  Annunciation  and 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  are  in  the  style  of  Memling.  The  prayer- 
books  of  Isabella  of  Castile  (1450),  Catharine  of  Aragon,  and  Cathe- 
rine de  Medicis,  a  Gospel  of  the  10th  cent.,  a  Psalter  of  the  12th 
cent.,  a  Bible  with  autograph  of  Mary  Stuart,  presented  to  Wil- 
liam III.  and  Mary  on  their  coronation  (1689),  etc.,  also  merit  in- 
spection. The  most  precious  objects  are  exhibited  under  glass  in 
the  entrance-hall. 

The  valuable  collection  of  Coixs,  Medals,  and  Gems  in  the  same 
building  is  open  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  10-3 
o'clock.  It  contains  upwards  of  40,000  coins  and  medals,  and  300 
cameos,  most  of  them  antique,  including  the  Apotheosis  of  theEmp. 
Claudius,  one  of  the  largest  known  ;  also  a  collection  of  Syrian  and 
Babylonian  seals  and  dies. 

The  following  are  among  the  finest:  Head  of  Hercules;  bust  of  Bac- 
chus; Faun  attempting  to  rob  a  Bacchante  of  her  robe;  reversed  lyre 
with  horns  represented  by  two  dolphins,  springing  from  a  rose-crowned 
head  of  Cupid,  grouped  artistically  with  the  panther  of  Bacchus,  which 
holds  the  thyrsus  in  its  front  paw,  mask  with  large  beard  and  open 
mouth;  Venus  and  Cupid;  Cybele  riding  on  the  lion;  giant  dragging  a 
griffin  from  a  cavern ;  helmeted  head  in  profile,  with  a  long  beard ;  Ho- 
mer as  a  statue;  several  portrait-heads;  head  of  Medusa,  in  cornelian, 
a  beautiful  modern  work.  The  catalogue  of  the  director  gives  full  par- 
ticulars about  every  object  in  the  collection. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Lange  Voorhout  is  an  octagonal  sand- 
stone monument  (PL  48;  E,  4)  to  Duhe  Charles  Bernhard  of  Sax e- 
Wehnar  (d.  1862),  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  Dutch  service 
at  the  Battle  of  Waterloo  in  1815,  in  the  battles  against  the  Belgian 
insurgents  in  1831 ,  and  in  the  P^ast  Indian  Wars  of  1849.  —  Ad-^ 
jacent,  in  the  Korte  Vorhout,  rise  the  Theatre  (PL  68;  E,  4),  and 
the  Palace  of  Princess  Marie  (PL  57;  F,  4),  the  late  king's  cousin. 

On  the  Prinzesse-Gracht  is  the  Cannon  Foundry  (PL  11), 
beyond  which  is  the  Museum  Mbermanno-Westrbknianum  (PL  51; 
F,  4),  a  somewhat  motley  collection  of  MSS.,  specimens  of  early 
typography,  coins,  ancient  vases,  a  few  small  ancient  sculptures, 
Japanese  curiosities,  etc.,  bequeathed  by  Count  Meermann  (d.  1816) 
and  Baron  Westreenen  (d.  1850). 

The  most  interesting  MSS.  are  a  fragment  of  an  Old  Testament  of 
the  5th  cent. ;  a  book  of  the  Gospels  of  the  9th  cent. ;  a  Flemish  Bible  in 
rhyme,  of  1332  ;  a  French  Bible  with  miniatures  by  .Tan  of  Bruges,  executed 
in  1371  for  Charles  V.,  the  Wise,  of  France;  the  Ethics  of  Aristotle  in 
French,  of  1376,  with  miniatures  in  grisaille ;   French    translation   of  Au- 


Park.  THE  HAGUE.  38.  Route,     275 

gustine's  'De  Civitate  Dei',  with  numerous  miniatures  (end  of  the  15th, 
or  early  in  the  16th  cent.);  and  several  others  of  the  early  Flemish  and 
Dutch  schools.  Among  the  specimens  of  Ttpogkapht  are  several  block- 
books,  such  as  were  common  at  the  close  of  the  middle  ages,  particularly 
in  Holland;  incunabula  of  Gutenberg  and  Caxton^  etc.  Unfortunately  the 
museum  is  open  only  on  the  first  and  third  Thursday  of  every  month, 
10-4  o'clock.  Tickets  are  issued  on  the  previous  day,  10-4  o'clock,  by 
the  director  of  the  library  (p.  274).  The  visitor  is  conducted  through  the 
museum  by  an  attendant. 

The  Willems-Park(P1,  D,  2),  a  circular  Place  enclosed  by  pleas- 
ant houses  and  gardens,  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  town,  on  the 
way  to  Scheveningen ,  is  adorned  with  the  imposing  *National 
Monument  (PL  44) ,  begun  in  1863  and  inaugurated  in  1869, 
to  commemorate  the  restoration  of  Dutch  independence  in  1813 
and  the  return  of  Prince  William  Frederick  of  Orange,  who  after- 
wards became  king.  On  the  massive  substructure  rises  a  lofty  rect- 
angular column  bearing  a  smaller  one  which  is  adorned  with  the 
arms  of  the  kingdom  and  the  seven  provinces,  the  whole  being 
crowned  with  a  Batavia  in  bronze,  holding  a  banner  in  her  right 
hand  and  a  sheaf  of  arrows  in  the  left,  with  the  lion  of  the  Nether- 
lands at  her  feet.  On  the  side  facing  the  town  Prince  William 
Frederick  is  represented  in  his  coronation-robes,  swearing  to  main- 
tain the  constitution.  At  the  back  are  Gysbert  Karel  van  Hogen- 
dorp,  Fr.  Ad.  van  der  Duyn,  and  Count  L.  van  Limburg-Styrum, 
the  leaders  of  the  rising  in  November,  1813.  The  figures  on  the 
narrow  sides  are  emblematical  of  Liberty  and  Law.  All  these  figures 
are  in  bronze,  having  been  modelled  by  Jaquet.  Two  reliefs  on  the 
round  part  of  the  pedestal  represent  the  rising  of  the  people  and 
the  arrival  of  the  king.  The  whole  monument  was  designed  by 
W.  C.  van  der  Wayen-Pieterszen  and  Koelman.  —  Near  the  monu- 
ment is  De  Boer's  Bazaar  (p.  260). 

The  Nieuwe  Kerk  (PI.  D,  6),  on  the  Spui,  with  wooden  vault- 
ing, was  built  by  Hendrik  de  Keyser(^.  248);  it  contains  the  tombs 
of  the  De  Witts  (p.  271)  and  of  Spinoza  (near  the  pulpit).  Spinoza's 
House,  Paveljoen3gracht32,  opposite  the  Heilig-Geesthofje  (PL  14; 
C,  6),  was  occupied  by  the  great  philosopher  from  1671  down  to  his 
death  in  1677.  Opposite  is  a  bronze  Statue  of  Spinoza  (PL  49),  by 
Hexamer,  erected  in  1880. 

The  Zoological  -  Botanic  Garden  (PL  F,  3)  is  a  favourite 
place  of  recreation,  containing  a  fair  collection  of  birds  and  a  few 
other  animals.  Admission  50  c.  ;  those  who  make  a  long  stay  at  the 
Hague  may  subscribe.  Concerts  on  Moii.  and  often  Frid.  evenings  in 
summer,  and  on  Sun.  afternoons  in  winter  (adm.  1  fl. ;  restaurant). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Zoological  Garden  is  the  Malieveld,  the  drill- 
ing-ground of  the  garrison.  Farther  on  begins  the  celebrated  and 
beautiful  *Park  (het  Bosch),  a  plantation  intersected  by  avenues  in 
different  directions,  and  about  II/2  M.  in  length.  In  the  centre  is  a 
large  garden  belonging  to  the  Witte  or  Litteraire  Societeit,  to  which 
admission  is  granted  only  on  introduction.     On  Sundays  from  2  to 

18* 


276     Route  39.  SCHEVENINGEN. 

3.30,  and  on  Wednesdays  from  7  to  9.30  o'clock,  a  band  plays  here 
and  attracts  numerous  visitors.  Near  tlie  road  the  forest  is  traversed 
by  regular  avenues  of  stately  old  trees,  while  the  remoter  parts  are 
in  their  primitive  condition.    Comp.  the  small  map  on  the  Plan. 

Near  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Park,  about  1^/2  M.  from  the  Hague, 
is  situated  the  Huis  ten  Bosch,  i.  e.  the  'House  in  the  Wood',  a 
royal  villa,  erected  in  1647  by  Pieter  Post  for  Princess  Amalia  of 
Solms,  widow  of  Prince  Frederick  Henry  of  Orange  (p.  xxxii).  Vi- 
sitors to  the  villa  may  make  use  of  the  tramway  from  the  Plein  to 
Bezuidenhout,  the  terminus  of  which  is  in  the  Laan  van  Nieuw- 
Oosteinde  (see  Map  of  the  Environs).  Those  who  walk  through  the 
Bosch  turn  to  the  right  at  the  end  of  the  ornamental  water  and  soon 
reach  the  gate  to  the  grounds  surrounding  the  villa. 

The  Intekior  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  (Visitors  ring  at  the  door  in  the 
right  wing;  fee  1  fl.  for  1-3  pers.,  2  fl.  for  a  larger  party.)  The  Dining  Room 
is  embellished  with  grisailles  by  De  Wit  (1749)  ofMeleager,  Atalanta, 
Venus,  Adonis,  and  Genii,  painted  in  imitation  of  bas-reliefs,  and  pro- 
ducing an  almost  perfect  illusion ;  it  also  contains  Chinese,  Saxon  (Meissen), 
and  Delft  porcelain.  In  the  Cfnnese  Room  is  some  tapestry  of  rice-paper 
of  the  18th  century.  The  Jaj>anese  Room  contains  bright-coloured  em- 
broidery with  birds  and  plants,  presented  to  Prince  William  V.  of  Orange 
in  1795,  Japanese  cabinets,  etc. 

The  chief  attraction  is  the  ''Orange  Saloon,  an  octagonal  hall  adorned 
with  scenes  from  the  life  of  Prince  Frederick  Henry,  painted  by  artists 
of  the  School  of  Rubens  (comp.  Introd..  p.  1),  and  lighted  partly  by  the 
cupola  above,  and  partly  from  the  sides.  The  walls  are  about  50  ft. 
in  height,  the  lower  part  being  covered  with  canvas,  while  the  upper 
part  is  of  wood.  The  best  of  these  paintings  is  that  which  covers  the 
principal  wall,  by  Jovdaens.  representing  the  triumph  of  the  young  prince 
over  vice,  sickness ,  and  other  enemies  of  youth.  The  others  contain 
several  bold  and  finely-conceived  groups,  but  exhibit  numerous  traces  of 
the  inaccurate  drawing  of  Rubens's  school,  while  the  general  effect  is  far 
from  pleasing. 

The  following  pleasant  Excursion  may  be  taken  from  the  Hague 
(2-3  hrs.  driving).  Along  the  Leyden  road  ('Straatweg  naar 
Leiden';  PI.  F,  4),  through  the  Park,  and  then  by  the  'Papenlaan' 
to  Voorschoten  (p.  240),  the  Leidsche  Dam ,  and  Voorburg ,  near 
which  is  the  popular  resort  of  Wykerbrug,  with  a  restaurant.  Then 
back  by  the  '■Laan  van  Nieuic-Oosteinde\  to  the  S.  of  the  Bosch.  — 
Another  steam-tramway  (p.  260)  runs  from  the  Hague  to  (25  min.) 
the  new  sea-bathing  resort  of  Kyk  duin,  near  the  village  of  Loos- 
duinen. 

39.    Scheveningen. 

The  following  conveyances  ply  between  the  Hague  and  Scheveningen, 
a  distance  of  2V2-3  M. 

i.  The  Steam  Tkamwat  of  the  Dutch  and  Rhenish  Railway  (Stoom 
Tranuccq/  der  Nederl.  Rhyn-Spoorweg  Maatschappy),  which  starts  from  the 
Rhenish  Station  (PI.  F,  6,  5)  every  y^  hr.  during  the  season,  and  also  '/zhr. 
after  the  arrival  of  each  train  (for  the  passengers  from  Utrecht,  Gouda, 
etc.).  The  station  at  Scheveningen  is  situated  close  to  the  German  Protes- 
tant Church,  near  the  large  Bath  House. 

2.  Steam  Tkamwat  of  the  Dutch  Railway  (Hollandsche  Yzeren  Spoor- 
weg  Maaischappy),   in  Vz  hr.,   starling   from   "the   Dutch   Station  (PI.  D,  8; 


§  SRAVCNHAii 


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SCHEVENINGEN.  39.  Route.     277 

p.  259;  in  connection  with  the  trains)  and  from,  ihe  Anna-Paulowna-Straat. 
The  station  at  Scheveningen  lies  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  village,  near  the 
Eoman  Catholic  Church. 

Fares  on  both  lines,  25  or  15  c,  10  tickets  2  or  1  fl. ;  tickets  are  obtained 
in  the  car.  In  returning,  travellers  may  procure  through  railway-tickets 
and  book  their  luggage  at  Scheveningen. 

3.  Tkamwat.  There  are  two  tramway-lines,  both  of  which  start  from 
the  Plein  (PL  E,  5),  while  one  follows  the  old,  and  the  other  the  new 
road  (see  p.  278).  The  former  is  divided  into  five,  the  latter  into  four 
sections.     Fare  5  c.  per  section. 

4.  Cabs.  From  the  railwav-stations  at  the  Hague  to  Scheveningen, 
1-2  pers.  IV2,  3-5per3,  IV**!.;  trunks  10  c.  each.  Comp.  p.  260. 

Hotels.  At  the  height  of  the  season  it  is  advisable  to  secure  rooms 
in  advance;  in  June  and  Sept.  char;j;es  are  usually  lower.  —  -Grand 
Hotel  des  Bains  i  Ccrhaus,  on  the  Dunes  (see  p.  279).  R,  from  2  fl.,  B. 
80  c,  table  d'hote  2'/2  fl.  —  To  the  N.  is  the  'Hutel  d'Oeaxge,  a  large 
house  situated  on  the  Dunes,  R.  from  21/2,  D.  21/2  fl-  Adjoining  this  hotel 
is  the  Pavilion,  a  building  containing  twelve  distinct  suites  of  furnished 
apartments  for  families,  each  of  which  is  let  for  1500-1800  fl.  for  the  season. 
—  To  the  S.  of  the  Grand  Hotel  des  Bains  is  the  Hotel  des  Galekies, 
no  sea-view,  with  a  restaurant,  cafe,  and  shops  on  the  ground-floor;  R. 
from  IV2  fl.  (before  21st  July  from  IV4  fl.) ,  extra  bed  3/4-I  fl.,  A.  25,  L. 
25,  B.  60  c,  'pens.'  3V2-4,  D.  2  fl.  —  *H6tel  Garni,  the  property  of  a 
company,  with  about  190  rooms,  R.  from  1  fl.,  D.  2-2V2  fl.,  B.  70  c,  'pen- 
sion' without  room  4  fl.,  good  cuisine;  -Hotel  Deutschmann..  —  *Hotel 
Rauch,  R.,  L.,  (fe  A.  2-8V2fl.,  B.  60,  D.  2,  pens.  5-8  fl. ;  Hotel  Zeekust 
E.  1-6  fl.  (before  and  after  the  season  somewhat  cheaper),  with  terraces, 
on  the  Dunes,  to  the  right  and  left  at  the  end  of  the  principal  street  of 
the  village.  —  There  are  also  several  villas  on  the  Dunes,  which  are  let 
to  summer-visitors. 

Behind  the  Dune.?,  without  a  view  of  the  sea:  Hotel  Continental, 
Nieuwe  Badweg,  ^/i  M.  [from  the  Hotel  des  Bains,  first  class.  —  To  the 
S.  of  the  Curhaus:  Hotel-Restaue.  Nelck;  Altebukg  ;  Pension;  Scunitz- 
LER,  etc.  Xearer  the  village  are  numerous  hotel-pensions  and  furni.shed 
villas,  rooms  in  which  are  cheaper  than  in  the  hotels  on  the  beach.  —  In 
the  village:  Hotel-Restaurant  St.  Hubert,  Xieuwe  Badweg,  E.  1-1V2> 
D.  11/2.  pens.  3-4  tl.,  unpretending;  Belvedere,  with  a  cafe;  ^Hutel  de 
LA  Promenade,  the  halfway  point  of  the  tramway-route,  see  p.  278;  R  , 
L.,  &  A.  IV2-3,  B.  3/4,  D.  2V4?  pens,  from  51/2  fl-";  'BEAUSfiJODR,  Banka 
Straat,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Scheveningsche  Boschjes.  —  Most  of  the 
private  lodgings  are  indifferently  fitted  up;  in  engaging  rooms  it  is  ad- 
visable to  have  a  written  agreement.  —  On  Sundays  Scheveningen  attracts 
crowds  of  Dutch  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  most  of  whom 
dine  at  the  hotels. 

Baths.  Bathing-coach  with  awning  Ifl.,  without  awning,  generally 
used  by  gentlemen,  70c.;  subscription  for  20  baths  with  towels  12or8fl.; 
small  bathing-coach,  which  is  conveyed  to  the  water's  edge  only,  with 
one  towel,  20-30  c,  after  9  a.m.  30  c. ;  subscription  for  20  baths  3,  for  the 
whole  season  71/2  fl.;  fee  10  c.  for  each  bath,  or  1  fl.  20  c.  for  20  baths. 
The  custom  of  promiscuous  bathing,  as  in  Ostend.  Blankenberghe,  and 
elsewhere,  has  been  lately  introduced,  but  there  are  also  separate  bath- 
ing-places for  gentlemen  and  ladies.  Tickets  are  procured  at  the  office  on 
the  beach  in  front  of  the  Bath  House.  On  Sundays  there  is  no  bathing 
allowed  after  2  p.m.  Owing  to  the  strong  'under-tow'  it  is  not  advisable 
for  swimmers  to  venture  beyond  the  space  marked  off  for  bathers. 

"Warm  Baths  of  salt-water  (65  c.  and  fee),  vapour-baths,  etc.,  at  the 
Bath  House,  well  fitted  up  (from  7  a.m.  to  4  p.m.). 

Visitors'  Tax  (not  obligatory):  For  the  season  20  ll.;  for  members  of 
families  'cartes  secondaires'  at  6  fl.  are  also  issued.  Day-tickets  50  c,  in 
the  second  half  of  July  75  c.,  in  Aug.  1  fl.  The  subscribers  are  admitted 
without  charge  to  the  dancing  're'unions'  and  to  the  ordinary  concerts  and 
theatrical  perfomances,  while  for  the  extra  entertainments  they  pay  halt- 
price. 


278     Route  39.  SCHEVENINGEN. 

Physicians:  Dr.  Afess.  villa  on  the  Dunes,  next  to  the  Hotel  Garni; 
Dr.  Francken,  at  the  Bath  House;  Dr.  van  der  Mandele^  Dr.  van  der  Slny.i^ 
both  Prins  Willemstraat. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  Kei7,erstraat294  ;  branch-office  in  the  Cursaal. 

Donkeys.  Per  1/2  hr.  20  c,  1/2  <lay  1  fl.  25  c. -,  with  small  carriage, 
per  hr.  50  c.,  1/2  day  2 11.  ^carriageandpairof  donkeys,  per  hr.  75  c.,  1/2  flay  2V2tl. 

Boating.,  as  at  other  Dutch  watering-places,  badly  provided  for.  — 
Tents  ('pavilions')  and  chairs  ('Windstoer)  may  be  hired  on  the  beach.  — 
'Le  Petit  Courrier'  and  the  oflicial  gazette  (published  daily)  contain  a  list 
of  visitors. 

English  Church  at  the  Hague  (p.  260). 

There  are  two  roads  between  the  Hague  and  Scheveningeii :  — 

1.  The  Old  Road,  paved  with  'kliiikers',  constructed  in  the 
middle  of  the  17th  century,  leaves  the  town  by  the  N.W.  gate 
(PL  C,  1),  and  is  shaded  by  trees  and  provided  with  a  tramway- 
line.  On  the  right,  between  the  old  road  and  the  Canal,  lie 
tbe  Scheveningsche  Boschjes^  a  park  with  numerous  line  old  oaks, 
affording  beautiful  walks.  On  the  left  is  the  chateau  of  Zorgvliet, 
once  the  residence  of  Cats,  the  Dutch  statesman  and  poet  (d.  1660), 
now  the  property  of  the  Grand-Duchess  of  Saxe-Weimar.  Farther 
on,  we  pass  a  row  of  villas,  including  the  Hotel  de  la  Promenade 
(halfway  house  on  the  tramway-route).  Distance  from  the  Scheve- 
ningen  Gate  at  the  Hague  to  the  beginning  of  the  village  IY2  ^-i 
to  the  beach  21/4  M. 

2.  The  uninteresting  and  shadeless  New  Road  leads  direct  from 
the  N.  end  of  the  town  (PI.  F,  1)  to  the  Bath  House,  skirting  the 
canal  at  first,  and  crossing  it  halfway.  This  is  the  route  followed 
by  the  steam-tramway  from  the  Rhenish  station  and  by  one  of  the 
ordinary  tramways.  On  the  Dunes  to  the  right,  in  the  distance,  is 
the  large  building  of  the  Hague  Water  Works  (adm.  Tues.  and 
Thurs.  12-4  ;  fine  view). 

Scheveningen,  a  clean  fishing-village  with  15,000inhab.,  con- 
sists of  neat  brick  houses,  sheltered  from  the  sea  by  a  lofty  dune. 
The  late-Gothic  church,  consecrated  in  1472,  with  its  pointed  spire, 
once  stood  in  the  middle  of  Scheveningen,  but  on  1st  Nov. ,  1570,  a 
spring-tide  swallowed  up  half  of  the  village,  consisting  of  125 
houses,  so  that  the  church  now  stands  at  the  W.  end.  As  the  ground 
rises  gradually  behind  the  village,  no  view  is  obtained  of  the  sea 
until  the  top  of  the  Dunes  is  reached. 

An  undulating  Terrace,  paved  with  bricks,  extends  along  the 
top  of  the  Dunes  from  the  village  to  the  Hotel  d'Orange  (about 
1  M.),  forming  an  admirable  promenade.  Lower  down,  on  the  side 
next  the  sea,  another  paved  road,  completed  in  1877,  connects  the 
village  with  the  large  Bath  House.  At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Terrace 
are  the  Lighthouse  (Vuurtoren  ;  adm.  15  c.  ;  fine  view,  best  early 
in  the  morning  or  in  the  evening)  and  the  Monument,  an  obelisk 
erected  in  1865  to  commemorate  the  return  of  William  1.  after  the 
French  occupation  (p.  xxxiv).  Farther  on  are  numerous  villas,  the 
Grand  Hotel  des  Bains,  and  the  other  hotels  mentioned  above.  A 
little  inland  lie  the  German  Protestant  Church,  with  two  towers, 


LEYDEN.  40.  Route.     279 

and  the  Sophie-Stichting,  a  marine  hospital  for  children  (open  in 
summer  only). 

The  large  Bath  House  and  Curhaus^  or  Grand  Hotel  des  Bains,  is 
the  great  rallying-point  of  visitors.  The  handsome  new  building, 
erected  in  1884-85  by  the  German  architects  Henkenhof  and  Ebert, 
burned  down  in  1886,  and  rebuilt  since,  is  upwards  of  550  yds.  in 
length  and  is  surrounded  by  spacious  verandas.  The  richly  adorned 
Cursaal,  surmounted  by  a  glass  cupola,  can  accommodate  2500  per- 
sons. —  To  the  S.  is  the  large  cafe-restaurant  De  Seinpost^  where 
a  band  plays  daily. 

Scheveningen  possesses  numerous  fishing -boats  (pinken),  the 
cargoes  of  which  are  sold  by  auction  on  the  beach  immediately  on 
their  arrival.  The  scene  on  such  occasions  is  often  very  picturesque 
and  amusing.  The  herring-fishery  is  also  prosecuted  with  consid- 
erable success,  many  of  the  'pinken'  occasionally  venturing  as  far 
as  the  N.  coast  of  Scotland. 

Scheveningen  is  now  frequented  by  about  20,000  visitors  an- 
nually. The  height  of  the  season  is  from  loth  July  to  15th  Sept., 
before  and  after  which  charges  are  lowered.  Scheveningen  is  re- 
puted to  be  among  the  most  expensive  bathing  resorts  on  the  Con- 
tinent. The  sands  are  firm  and  smooth  (bathing-places,  see  p.  277). 
A  great  advantage  which  Scheveningen  possesses  over  the  other 
watering-places  on  the  N.  Sea  is  the  proximity  of  the  Hague  and 
the  woods  a  little  inland,  which  afford  pleasant  and  shady  walks. 

In  1673  Admiral  de  Ruyter  defeated  the  united  fleets  of  France 
and  England  off  the  coast  near  Scheveningen. 

40.    Leyden. 

Comp.  the  Plan,  p.  284. 

Hotels.  -Hotel  du  Lion  d'Or  (PI.  a),  -Hotel  Levedag  (PI.  d),  in  both 
R.,  L.,  &  A.  13/v23/4  fl.,  B.  50-80  c,  D.  2V4-2V2  fl. ;  Hotel  Central,  op- 
posite the  post-oflke,  R.,  L  ,  A.,  &  F.  l^/i,  D.  I'/i  tl.;  Soleil  d\)r  (PI.  b). 
All  these  are  in  the  Breestraat.  Hotel  de  la  Poste,  with  cafe-restaurant, 
in  the  Aal-Markt  (PI.  1).  E,  3);  Hotel  Place  Royal,  Noordeindc,  R.,  L, 
A.,  it  F.  13/4,  T).  I'Afl.,  well  spoken  of. 

Cafes-Kestaurants.  Zomerzoi-g ,  near  the  railway-station,  with  a  pleas- 
ant garden ;  Cafi  Suisse,  Breestraat  84 ;  Sladt  Niinibevg.,  Breestraat  10  (good 
beer);  Cafi  Neuf.  Breestraat  107,  opposite  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  —  "Hail. 
Restauvant. 

Tramways.  From  the  station  (Pl.  B ,  1)  across  the  Beestenmarkt 
(PI.  C,  2)  and  thence  through  the  Breestraat  to  the  Hoogewoerds  PooH 
(PI.  H,  5J,  10  c,  small  articles  of  luggage  free.  —  Steim  Tramway  to 
Haarlem  and  to  Katwyk  aan  Zee  (see  p.  285),  with  a  branch  to  Rynsburg 
and  Noordwyk  and  another  via  Voorschoten  [(branch  to  Wassenaar)  and 
Voorburg  to  the  Hague  (pp.  258,  260). 

Steamboat  to  Katwyk,  see  p.  285. 

Cab  from  the  station  to  the  town  60  c,  per  hour  1  fl. 

Leyden,  in  the  middle  ages  Leithen,  one  of  the  most  ancient 
towns  in  Holland  (although  probably  not  the  Lugdunum  Batavorum 
of  the  Romans),  is  situated  on  the  so-called  Old  Rhine^  the  sluggish 
waters  of  which  flow  through  the  town  in  several  canal-like  arms. 


280    Route  40.  LEYDEN.  Burg. 

The  town  contains  46,300  iiihab.,  but  is  sufficiently  extensive  to 
accommodate  100,000,  a  number  it  boasted  of  when  at  the  height 
of  its  prosperity.  In  the  16th  cent.  Leyden  sustained  a  terrible 
siege  by  the  Spaniards,  which  lasted  from  Oct.  31st,  1573,  to  Mar. 
24th,  1574,  and  then,  after  a  short  and  partial  relief  by  Prince  Louis 
of  Nassau,  was  continued  as  a  blockade  down  to  Oct.  3rd  of  the  same 
year.  William  of  Orange  at  last  caused  the  S.  dykes  to  be  pierced, 
and  the  country  being  thus  inundated ,  he  relieved  the  besieged 
by  ship.  Leyden  was  the  birthplace  of  several  of  the  painters  of  the 
16th  and  17th  centuries:  Lucas  van  Leyden,  Joris  van  Schooten, 
Jacob  van  Swanenburgh,  the  great  Rembrandt  van  Ryn,  Jan  Steen, 
Gerard  Dou ,  Gabriel  Metsu ,  Jan  van  Goyen ,  Frans  van  Mieris. 
Peter  Slingeland,  etc.  It  possesses,  however,  but  few  specimens 
of  their  works.  Leyden  also  became  the  centre  of  tlie  Dutch  textile 
industry,  when  the  'Yperlinge'  (weavers  from  Ypres)  settled  here 
after  the  great  war. 

The  town  still  presents  many  picturesque  mediaeval  features  (es- 
pecially in  the  Rapenburg  and  Breestraat).  The  Morsch  Gate  (PI. 
B,  2),  surmounted  by  a  dome ,  built  by  Willem  van  der  Helm  in 
1669,  is  a  relic  of  the  old  fortifications. 

The  oldest  edifice  in  Leyden  is  the  Burg  (PI.  E,  3,  4;  adm.lOc), 
situated  on  a  mound  of  earth  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  It  is  circular 
in  form,  and  is  undoubtedly  of  very  ancient  origin.  The  chroniclers 
connect  it  with  Drusus  and  the  Anglo-Saxon  Hengist.  It  first  ap- 
pears in  authentic  history  during  the  10th  century.  The  building 
has  been  badly  restored  and  adorned  with  pinnacles.  The  top 
commands  a  good  view  of  the  town  and  neighbourhood,  extending 
on  a  clear  day  to  the  sea. 

Near  the  Burg  is  situated  the  Church  of  St.  Pancras,  or  Hoog- 
landsche  Kerk  (PI.  2;  F,  4),  a  late-Gothic  stone  edifice  erected  on 
the  site  of  an  earlier  building  in  the  loth  cent.,  and  recently  re- 
stored. It  is  a  large  basilica  with  nave  and  aisles ,  with  a  transept 
also  flanked  with  aisles.  The  nave,  which  has  reached  neither  its 
projected  length  nor  its  projected  height,  is  covered  by  a  wooden 
roof  of  barrel-vaulting.  The  N.  arm  of  the  transept,  the  facade  of 
which  is  richly  decorated,  is  surmounted  by  singular-looking  turrets. 
The  spacious  interior  is  supported  by  thirty-eight  massive  buttresses. 
By  one  of  these  is  the  insignificant  monument  of  the  burgomaster 
Van  der  Werff  (d.  1604),  who  in  1574  gallantly  defended  the  town 
during  the  siege  by  the  Spaniards. 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Burg  is  a  bridge  with  a  covered 
wooden  portico  built  in  1825,  and  used  as  a  Corn  Exchange  (PL  13  ; 
E,  4),  leading  to  the  Breedestraat  ('Breestraat'),  the  principal  street 
in  Leyden,  which,  with  its  continuation  the  Hoogewoerd,  intersects 
the  whole  town  in  the  form  of  an  S. 

In  this  street,  on  the  right,  rises  the  *Stadhuis  (PI.  20 ;  E,  4), 
one  of  the  most  successful  examples  of  the  Dutch  style  of  the  close 


Museum  of  Antiquities.     LEYDEN.  40.  Route.      281 

of  the  16th  cent.,  with  a  lofty  flight  of  steps.  The  picturesque 
broach-spire  was  added  in  1577,  and  twenty  years  later  the  fagade 
was  completed  by  Lieven  de  Key.  The  latter  did  not  reach 
its  present  extent  (85  yds.)  until  the  17-18th  centuries.  The  in- 
terior is  still  as  it  was  in  the  15th  cent.,  though  the  rooms  appear 
modernized.  In  the  Archive  Room  is  some  good  carved  panelling  of 
1607.  Over  the  siile-entrance  on  the  N.  is  the  following  inscription  : 
^nae  sWarte  hVnger-noot  gebraCht  had  tot  de  doot  binaest  zes- 
dVIzent  MensChen,  aLit  god  den  heer  Verdroot  gaf  hi  Vns  Weder 
broot^  zo  VeeL  WI  CVnsten  Wens  Chen'  (i.e.  literally:  When  the 
black  famine  had  brought  to  the  death  nearly  six  thousand  persons, 
then  God  the  Lord  repented  of  it,  and  gave  us  bread  again  as  much 
as  we  could  wish").  This  inscription,  which  refers  to  the  siege  of 
1574,  is  a  chronogram,  the  capitals  (among  which  W  is  reckoned  as 
two  Y's)  recording  the  date,  and  the  131  letters  the  number  of  days 
during  which  the  siege  lasted. 

Near  the  Post  Office  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Minerva 
Club,  to  which  most  of  the  students  belong.  —  Opposite  is  the 
Rhynlandhuis,  built  by  Lieven  deKey  in  1596,  and  restored  in  1870. 
A  little  nearer  the  Old  Rhine  is  the  City  Weigh-house  and  Butter- 
market  in  the  Aalmarkt,  built  in  1658  by  Pieter  Post.  The  sculp- 
tures are  by  R.  Yerhulst. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Breestraat  is  the  "''Museum  of  Antiqmties, 
OT  Museum  vanOudheden  (PI.  16;  C,  3),  open  daily  from  10  (Sun. 
12.30)  to  4  o'clock.  Strangers  may  obtain  admission  at  other  times 
on  application.  It  occupies  eleven  rooms,  and  is  most  valuable  in 
the  Egyptian  department.  Some  of  the  Greek  sculptures  are  also 
very  important. 

Geound  Flock.  Room  I.  (r.).  Indian  Idols.  Brahma,  the  'Creator'', 
Vishnu  with  the  trunk  of  an  elephant,  the  'Preserver'',  Shiva,  the  'Destroyer'", 
resting  on  skulls,  in  numerous  examples  of  various  sizes  (sun,  water,  and 
fire;  or  power,  wisdom,  and  justice;  or  the  past,  the  present,  and  the 
future;  i.e.  the  Indian  Trinity,  often  represented  as  a  body  with  three 
heads) ;  an  idol  of  lava  in  the  form  of  a  bull ;  relics  from  Carthage ;  custo- 
dian of  a  temple,  a  quaint  figure  with  a  sword. 

Rooms  II,  III.  Koman  and  Greek  Antiquities.  In  R.  II.,  Roman 
statues  and  busts:  76.  Trajan;  75.  Tib<fHus;  129.  Bust  of  Hadvian.  — 
R.  III.  In  the  middle,  on  a  circular  altar  with  reliefs,  *103.  Colossal  Head 
of  Dionysus,  much  injured.  By  the  right  wall:  '52.  Statue  of  Zeus,  well 
preserved  and  of  unusual  type.  By  the  window :  62.  Youthful  Pan.  Ad- 
jacent, Votive  Relief  to  JEsculapius  and  Hygieia,  of  good  Greek  workman- 
ship. Left  wall :  Statue  of  Apollo,  freely  restored  (head,  perhaps,  of  a 
Venus?),  isumerous  inscriptions.  High  up,  1,152.  Head  of  Apollo,  an  archaic 
Greek  work  much  mutilated. 

Room  IV.  Egyptian  Sculptures.  Sarcophagi  with  figures  of  the  dead 
and  hieroglyphic  inscriptions;  Greek  tomb-inscriptions  from  Egypt,  mostly 
of  the  Christian  period.  Funereal  pyramid  of  a  royal  secretary;  kneeling 
statues  from  tombs.  Slabs  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions,  some  with  well- 
preserved  colouring  (IS'o.  26).  In  the  entrance-wall  is  a  recess  fitted  up 
in  the  style  of  an  Egyptian  tomb.  —  The  end  of  the  room  is  partitioned 
otf  by  four  pillars  and  a  gate  from  the  entrance  to  an  Egyptian  tomb. 
Large  niche  in  granite,  presented  to  a  temple  by  King  Amasis  in  the  6th 
cent,  before  Christ.  Relief  from  the  grave  of  King  Horus  (15th  cent.  B. 
C),  with  captives  (Jews?). 


282    Route  40.  LEYDEN.     Natural  History  Museum. 

First  Floor.  Room  7,  II.  III.  Smaller  Egyptian  Antiquities.  R.  I. 
Mummies,  ornameuts,  llowers;  statuettes  in  wood,  bronze,  and  porcelain. 
Papyrus  scrolls  in  hieroglyphic,  hieratic,  and  Greek  text.  —  RR.  II,  III. 
Egyptian  gems,  statuettes,  jewels,  scarabrei,  bronzes,  vessels  in  terracotta 
and  alabaster,  bread  found  with  mummies,  etc. 

Rooms  IV  and  V,  which  contain  Greek  and  Koman  Antiquities,  are 
fitted  up  in  imitation  of  the  Roman  columbaria  or  grave-chambers  for 
funereal  urns.  In  R.  IV.  are  funereal  urns  and  inscriptions,  and  an  Early- 
Chvistian  Sarcophagus.,  with  reliefs.  The  next  room  contains  Etruscan 
Cists,  with  figures  of  the  deceased  and  reliefs  ((to  the  left,  No.  400,  Ulysses 
and  the  Cyclops).  Here  are  also  several  admirable  Greek  Funereal  Mon- 
vmenis ,  some  of  them  of  the  classic  period.  The  finest  is  the  ""Relief 
of  Ardiestrale,  daughter  of  Alexos,  from  Sunium,  one  of  the  best  Attic 
monuments  of  the  kind,  dating  from  the  4th  cent.  B.  C. 

Second  Floor.  Casts  from  antique  sculptures  and  fi'om  the  cameos 
at  the  Hague  (p.  274);  Greek,  Roman,  and  Etruscan  bronzes,  weapons,  hel- 
mets; Greek  and  Roman  vases  in  the  ancient  and  more  modern  style; 
terracotta  vessels;  models  of  ancient  tombs. 

Third  Floor.  Cork  models  of  ancient  structures ;  models  of  lake- 
dwellings  in  the  Lake  of  Zurich;  model  of  a  'giant's  ^rave'  near  Assen 
(p.  349);  Teutonic  idols  and  relics  from  the  same  district. 

The  Natural  History  Museum  [PL  15;  C,  D,  4),  Rapen- 
burg  69,  is  open  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  12-4.  The  collection 
is  particularly  well  supplied  with  specimens  of  the  products  of 
China,  Japan,  British  India,  Arabia,  and  Persia.  The  cabinet  of 
stuffed  birds  includes  the  collection  of  M.  Temminck  (d.  1858), 
one  of  the  greatest  of  European  ornithologists.  The  cabinet  of 
Comparative  Anatomy  is  also  very  complete.  —  The  Law  Courts, 
also  in  the  Rapenburg,  contain  a  collection  of  casts  (the  statues 
found  at  Olympia,  etc.). 

In  the  neighbourhood  are  some  buildings  of  importance  in  the 
literary  history  of  Holland :  the  small  Bibliotheca  Thysiana  (1G55) 
on  the  Rapenburg;  the  Tribunal  (1655),  which  belonged  to  the 
'Gravensteen',  the  prison  of  the  Dutch  counts,  and  the  Hofje  van 
Broeckhoven  (1640),  a  home  for  old  men,  both  on  the  Papengracht. 
Opposite  the  Gravensteen  is  the  picturesque  Gymnasium,  built  in 
1599  by  Lieven  de  Key. 

The  Church  of  St.  Peter  (PI.  1 ;  D,  4) ,  erected  in  1315 ,  with 
double  aisles,  is  the  largest  church  at  Leyden,  and  the  last  resting- 
place  of  many  distinguished  men.   The  lofty  W.  tower  fell  in  1512. 

The  monument  of  the  celebrated  physician  Boerhaave  (d.  1738)  bears 
the  modest  inscription:  '■Salufifero  Boerhavii  genio  sacrum''.  Other  mon- 
uments record  the  names  of  Dodonaeus ,  Spaiiheim ,  Meermnn ,  Glusius, 
Scaliger^  and  other  Dutch  savants.  The  inscription  on  that  of  Prof.  Luzac 
states  that  he  perished  in  the  explosion  of  1807  (p.  284).  The  monument 
of  Joli.  van  Kerkhove  (d.  1660)  is  by  R.  Verhulst.  The  handsome  pulpit 
and  the  choir-screen  with  its  rich  balustrade  and  carved  frieze  in  the 
early  Renaissance  style  deserve  notice. 

A  house  in  the  Klok-Steeg  (No.  21),  immediately  adjoining  the 
Pieters-Kerk-Plein  (PI.  D,  4).  bears  an  inscription  to  the  effect  that 
John  Robinson,  the  leader  of  the  first  Puritan  party  banished  from 
England,  lived,  taught,  and  died  here  (1611-25).  The  present 
house,  however,  was  not  built  till  1683. 

According  to  a  popular  tradition.   Prince  "William  of  Orange, 


< 


University.  LEYDEN.  40,  Route.      283 

after  the  siege  of  1574,  offered  to  reward  the  citizens  for  their 
gallant  conduct  in  the  defence  by  exempting  them  from  the  pay- 
ment of  taxes  for  a  certain  number  of  years,  or  by  the  establish- 
ment of  a  university  in  their  city.  The  latter  alternative  is  said  to 
have  been  preferred,  and  the  prince  accordingly  founded  a  High 
School,  or  "University,  in  1575.  Its  fame  soon  extended  to  every 
part  of  Europe.  Hugo  Grotius,  Scaliger,  and  Cartesius  (Descartes), 
the  greatest  scholars  of  their  age,  Salmasius,  Boerhave,  Wyttenbach, 
and  others  resided  and  wrote  here,  and  Arminius  and  Gomar,  the 
founders  of  the  sects  named  after  them  (p.  378),  were  professors  at 
the  university.  Lord  Stair  (d.  1695),  the  celebrated  Scottish  jurist, 
spent  several  years  in  exile  at  Leyden,  whence  he  accompanied  his 
future  sovereign  William  of  Orange  to  Great  Britain  in  1688.  Leyden 
still  enjoys  a  high  reputation  as  a  seat  of  learning,  especially  as  a 
school  of  medicine  and  natural  science,  owing  to  the  very  extensive 
collections  which  it  possesses.  Most  of  the  professors  (46,  students 
800)  teach  at  their  private  residences  (some  of  them  still  in 
Latin);  a  few  only  deliver  lectures  in  the  university  -  building 
itself' (Academy,  PI.  8;  C,  5,  E,  5).  The  old  building  was  the 
chapel  of  a  Jacobin  nunnery.  In  the  Aula  or  hall  is  the  elaborate 
tombstone  of  Jan  van  Adrichem,  by  the  Frisian  sculptor  Vincent 
Lucas  (1556).  The  staircase  to  the  Career  or  prison  is  ornamented 
with  designs  by  Jhr.  Victor  de  Stuers.  The  hall  of  the  Senate  is 
adorned  with  portraits  of  prominent  professors,  from  Scaliger  down 
to  those  last  deceased.  Niebuhr  in  his  Roman  History  expresses 
his  opinion  that  no  locality  in  Europe  is  so  memorable  in  the 
history  of  science  as  this  venerable  hall.  The  Library  [PI.  26 ; 
D,  5),  the  oldest  and  richest  in  Holland,  contains  upwards  of 
300,000  vols,  and  5600  valuable  MSS.  Considerable  sums  of 
money  have  recently  been  granted  for  the  erection  of  new  buildings 
and  the  improvement  of  the  collections. 

The  Botanic  Garden  (PI.  C.  5),  open  to  the  public  daily  till 
1  o'clock,  was  founded  in  the  16th  century.  It  is  arranged  accord- 
ing to  the  systems  of  Linne  and  Jussieu,  and  kept  in  excellent  order. 
The  collection  of  exotics,  chiefly  from  the  E.  Indies,  is  very  line. 
The  hot-houses  contain  examples  of  the  cinnamon-tree,  the  quinine 
tree,  the  coffee-plant,  the  cotton-tree,  the  mahogany-tree,  the  New 
Zealand  flax-plant,  the  papyrus-tree,  the  bamboo,  the  sago-shrub, 
the  camphor-tree,  the  'fly-catcher',  the  arrowroot-plant,  the  tama- 
rind-shrub, palms,  etc.  —  The  Observatory  (PI.  17),  which  enjoys 
a  considerable  reputation,   is  situated  close  to  the  Botanic  Garden. 

In  the  Hoogewoerd,  the  E.  prolongation  of  the  Breestraat,  No. 
108,  is  the  Ethnographical  Museum  (PL  14;  G,  5),  an  extensive 
and  interesting  collection  of  the  products  of  the  Southern  Ocean, 
Australia,  and  the  Dutch  colonies  (open  on  Mon.  &  Frid.,  12-4). 

Some  Indian  houses  and  a  model  of  an  Indian  village  are  exhibited 
in  the  Kaiserstraat.  near  the  Observatory  (adm.  in  summer,  12-4).  —  The 
American,  African,  and  East  Indian  collections  are   at  Heermgracht  8. 


284      Route  40.  LEYDEN. 

The  Municipal  Museum  (PI.  25 ;  D,  2),  in  the  Lakenhal  ('cloth- 
hall',  erected  in  1G40  by  the  architect  S'Gravezande),  Oude  Siiigel 
32,  contains  a  multifarious  collection  of  antiqnities  connected  with 
Leyden,  and  also  a  few  interesting  pictures,  most  of  which  were 
brought  from  the  Stadhuis.  It  is  open  daily,  10-4,  adm.  10  c, ; 
Sundays,  and  3rd  Oct.,  the  anniversary  of  the  raising  of  the  siege  in 
1574,  12-4,  free.    Catalogue  50  c. 

Vkstibule.  stained  glass  of  the  16tb  century,  representing  counts  and 
countesses  of  Holland  (in  brown  monochrome). 

First  Floob.  In  the  middle  of  the  large  hall  two  glass-cases,  con- 
taining (left)  gold  and  silver  plate  belonging  to  the  municipality,  of  the 
17th  and  iSth  cent.,  and  (right)  glass  of  the  same  period,  relics  of  the 
siege,  coins,  medals.  The  walls  are  hung  with  numerous  portraits  and 
'Eegenf  or  corporation  pictures.  To  the  right,  on  the  end-wall :  11.  Gov. 
Flinck,  Portrait  of  a  man;  to  the  right  of  it,  7.  Adr.  Brouwer,  Rustic 
scene;  left,  Dom.  van  Tol  (pupil  of  Dou),  Woman  baking  pancakes,  and 
four  boys.  To  the  left:  143.  Unknown  Painter,  Regent-piece  of  1618.  The 
tapestry  opposite  the  entrance  (No.  16G),  representing  the  relief  of  Leyden, 
was   executed  in  1587.  —  The   contents  of  the  side-rooms  are  similar. 

Ui'PEB  FlooR.  The  pictures  here,  chietly  arquebusier  and  regent 
pieces,  are  more  interesting  and  important.  On  the  principal  wall,  facing 
the  entrance :  Van  Brie  (p.  140),  Burgomaster  van  der  Werff  offering  his 
body  to  the  starving  citizens,  who  demand  the  surrender  of  the  town  or 
the  satisfaction  of  their  hunger,  a  large  but  mediocre  work.  To  the  left 
and  right  are  six  pictures  of  arquebusiers  (Nos.  40,  37,  34,  38,  36,  3(1), 
painted  in  1626  and  1628  by  Joris  van  Schooten  (b-  at  Leyden  in  1587); 
the  execution  is  good  and  the  heads  are  full  of  expression,  but  there  is 
no  attempt  at  artistic  grouping.  On  the  end-wall  to  the  left:  32.  Van 
Schooten,  Representation  of  the  misery  that  reigned  during  the  siege ; 
71.  Sortie;  70.  Peter  van  Veen  (1570-1639,  Leyden),  Arrival  of  the  Water 
Gueux;  Medallion-portrait  of  Burgomaster  Van  der  Werff,  in  terracotta 
(17th  cent.).  On  the  end-wall  to  the  right:  17.  Lucas  van  Leyden,  Last 
Judgment,  the  only  authenticated  large  painting  by  this  artist.  To  the 
right  and  left,  Cornells  Engelbertsz,  9.  Crucifixion  with  numerous  figures, 
and  wings  representing  Abraham's  Sacrifice  and  the  Miracle  of  the  Bra- 
zen Serpent,  10.  Pieta,  with  six  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ.  The 
small  adjacent  room  contains  five  singular  pictures  by  Is.  Claesz.  van 
Swanenburgh  (d.  1614),  father  of  Rembrandt's  master,  Jac.  Isaacsz.  van 
Swanenburgh,  representing  the  old  cloth  manufactures  of  Leyden  and  the 
advent  of  Flemish  cloth-makers.  —  The  rooms  adjoining  on  the  other  side 
contain  a  collection  of  old  weapons  and  standards. 

The  promenades  near  the  Rynshurg  Gate  (PI.  C,  1),  by  which 
we  enter  the  town  from  the  railway-station,  are  adorned  with  a  statue 
of  Herman  Boerhaave  (PI.  24;  see  p.  282),  modelled  by  Stracke'e. 
Beyond  it  is  the  Academic  Hospital,  and,  in  the  distance,  the  Mili- 
tary Hospital.  —  On  the  Galge water  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  is  the  Kweekschool 
voor  de  Zeevaart,  or  seamen's  training  school. 

The  open  spaces  on  both  sides  of  the  Steenschuur  Canal  (PL  E,  5) 
were  formerly  covered  with  houses  and  owe  their  present  appearance 
to  an  appalling  explosion  of  gunpowder,  which  took  place  in  1807. 
The  space  on  the  N.  bank  is  now  partly  occupied  by  buildings 
connected  with  the  university  (PI.  8),  while  that  on  the  S.,  which 
is  still  known  as  the  'GrooteRuine',is  laid  out  as  a  pleasure-ground. 
The  latter  also  contains  a  monument  to  Burgomaster  van  der  Werff 
(p.  280),  erected  in  1884. 


HA^A^tLiMl 


TranOi/n 


CeographAnstalt  ■' 


1 .  Rissehopclijk  -Afitsrum 

.     B.2. 

2 .  Coster  s  StanMcfld 

B.4. 

3 .  Goicverncmcnt 

C.3. 

X- .  Hofje  ~r<m  Beercsteijiv 

C.2. 

Kerken: 

i.GrooteKcrk 

B.C.*. 

%.Nieuwe  Kerk   . 

.     A.5. 

T.Janskerk         .       . 

.      .B.C.  3. 

^.Reomcch-EajChoUeheSerk     C.3. 

9 .  Postkimtoor . 

.      .     B.3. 

10.  Schoiorbirrq  lyiojort.). 

.     C.2. 

Vi.Siudlmis       .      .       . 

.     B.4. 

12.  Ta/lcr's  JftisevTW 

C4. 

l^Ali-esdihal      - 

B.4.. 

.     .     C.5, 

"'""' 

Debes,  Leipi 

KATWYK.  40.  Route.      285 

From  Leyden  to  Noord-vntk  aan  Zee,  6  M.,  steam-tramway, 
starting  from  the  railway-station,  several  times  daily,  via  Eynsburg 
(see  below),  in  1  lir.  (fare  15  c).  —  Noordwyk  aan  Zee  (^^Hotel 
Huis  ter  Duin^  suitable  for  a  prolonged  stay,  R.  1'  2-9  A-j  pens,  from 
3  fl.  60  c,  R.  extra)  is  the  most  prettily  situated  watering-place  on 
the  Dutch  coast,  and  has  numerous  German  visitors. 

From  Leyden  to  Katwyk  aan  Zee,  6  M.,  steam-tramway, 
starting  from  the  railway-station,  16  times  daily  in  summer,  in 
40min. ;  steamer  from  the  Beestenmarkt  bridge  (PI.  C,  2),  several 
times  daily  in  l-i'  o  tr.  (fares  35  or  15  c).  —  The  road  passes 
Endegeed,  a  country-house  with  pleasant  grounds,  which  was  the 
residence  from  1630  to  1649  of  Descartes  (Cartesius),  who  wrote 
Ms  chief  mathematical  and  philosophical  works  here.  Farther  on 
are  Rynsburg  and  Katwyk  Binnen^  with  interesting  monuments  in 
their  churches. 

Katwyk  aan  Zee  {*Groot  Badhotel,  *H6tel  du  Rhin,  Hotel-Pen- 
sion van  Tellegen,  *H6tel  de  Zwaan,  all  on  the  Dunes,  villas  and 
private  lodgings  also  obtainable)  is  a  popular  Dutch  watering-place 
(5000inhab. ),  plain  but  not  cheap,  near  the  mouth  of  a  canal  closed 
with  huge  gates,  which  assists  the  Rhine  to  empty  itself  into  the  sea. 

The  mouth  of  the  Rhine  was  completely  obstructed  by  sand  in  con- 
sequence of  a  hurricane  in  the  year  839,  and  from  that  period  down 
to  1807  its  waters  formed  a  vast  swamp,  which  is  now  almost  en- 
tirely drained  (p.  258).  In  1807  a  large  canal  was  constructed,  with 
three  locks,  the  first  of  which  has  two,  the  second  four,  and  that  next 
to  the  sea  five  pairs  of  gates.  During  high  tide  the  gates  are  closed  in 
order  to  exclude  the  water,  which  rises  to  the  height  of  12  ft.  on  the 
outside,  while  the  level  of  the  canal  on  the  inside  is  much  lower.  At  low 
tide  the  gates  are  opened  for  5-6  hours  in  order  to  permit  the  accumulated 
waters  of  the  Rhine  to  escape,  and  the  masses  of  sand  thrown  up  by  the 
sea  are  thus  again  washed  away.  It  is  computed  that  100,000  cubic  ft. 
of  water  issue  from  the  gates  per  second.  In  stormy  weather,  when  the 
wind  blows  towards  the  land,  the  tide  does  not  fall  sufficiently  to  admit 
of  the  gates  being  opened.  The  dykes  constructed  at  the  entrance  to  the 
canal  and  on  the  sea-shore  are  of  most  imposing  dimensions.  The  founda- 
tions consist  of  piles  driven  into  the  loose  sand,  upon  which  a  massive 
superstructure  of  masonry  is  placed.  These  magnificent  works,  undertaken 
during  the  reign  of  King  Louis  Xapoleon  by  the  engineer  J/.  Conrad  (p.  287), 
are  the  finest  of  the  kind  in  Europe,  and  have  recently  been  strengthened 
in  consequence  of  an  outlet  of  the  Haarlemmer  Meer  having  been  conducted 
to  this  point.  The  neighbouring  kilns  convert  the  heaps  of  shells  thrown 
up  by  the  sea  into  lime,  which  is  used  in  the  construction  of  the  dykes. 

41.    Haaxlem. 

Hotels.  Hotel  Funckxer  (PI.  a ;  B,3),  in  the  Kruisstraat,  1/4  M.  from  the 
station,  R.  &  A.  1  fl.  75,  L.  30  c,  D.  2V2  A. ;  Gocden  Leeuw  (T1.  c,  B  2;  Lion 
<VOr),  in  the  same  street,  a  little  nearer  the  station;  Leeowekik  (PL  bj 
B,  3),  a  few  paces  beyond  the  Hotel  Fiinckler,  commercial,  R.,  L.,  &  A. 
1  fl.  75  c,  B.  3/4,  D.  incl.  wine  2^/i  fl.,  well  spoken  of.  —  Hotel  van  den 
Berg  and  'x  Wapen  van  Amsterdam,  outside  the  town,  near  the  Park,  are 
two  very  good  houses  for  a  prolonged  stay.  R.  &  B.  2  fl.,  D.  2fl.,  A.  50, 
L.  25  c. 

Restaurants.  Brinkmann's  Cafi- Restaurant  ^  Groote  Markt  11,  well 
spoken  of;  Grand  Caji- Restaur  ant  NevJ'^  Groote  Houtstraat  176.  —  'Rail. 
Restaurant. 


286     Route  41.  HAARLEM.  Meat  Market. 

Tramway  from  the  station  through  the  Kruisweg  and  the  Eruisstraat, 
past  the  Town  Hall  (p.  287),  and  through  the  Groote  Houtstraat,  to  the 
Pavilion  (p.  290) ;  fare  10  c.  —  Steam  Tramway  to  Leyden,  starting  from 
the  Park  (p.  290). 

Cabs.  With  one  horse:  from  the  station  to  the  town  with  56lbs.  of 
luggage  60  c.-,  extra  luggage,  20  c.  perSGlbs.j  per  hour,  in  the  town  1  fl., 
outside  the  town  V/2  fl. 

Haarlem,  with  50,000  inhab.,  the  seat  of  the  governor  of  the 
province  of  N.  Holland,  one  of  the  cleanest  and  most  attractive 
towns  in  Holland ,  and  possessing  several  thriving  manufactories, 
lies  on  the  Spaarne,  which  flows  through  the  town  in  a  curve. 
The  town  is  surrounded  by  well-kept  gardens  and  promenades,  laid 
out  partly  on  the  site  of  the  old  ramparts.  The  quaint  old  houses 
of  brick  and  hewn  stone  offer  much  to  interest  the  student  of 
architecture.  Hofjes(p.  xxviii)  are  specially  numerous  in  Haarlem. 

Haarlem  was  for  a  long  period  the  residence  of  the  Counts  of 
Holland.  Like  Leyden,  it  sustained  a  most  calamitous  siege  during 
the  War  of  Independence,  and  was  taken,  after  a  resistance  of  seven 
months  (1572-73),  by  the  Spaniards  under  Frederick  of  Toledo,  son 
of  the  Duke  of  Alva.  The  defence ,  though  ineffectual ,  was  most 
heroic,  and  even  the  women,  led  by  Kenan  Simons  Hasselaar,  took 
a  share  in  it.  Upwards  of  10,000  of  the  inhabitants  perished  on  this 
occasion,  and  the  commandant,  the  Protestant  clergy,  and  2000  of 
the  townspeople  were  executed  by  order  of  their  conqueror.  Four 
years  later  the  Spaniards  were  again  expelled.  The  town  attained 
the  height  of  its  prosperity  in  the  17th  cent.,  when  its  school  of  art 
was  also  of  some  importance.  Hend.  Goltzius,  Frans  Hals,  Jacob 
Ruysdael,  Everdingen,  Wouverman,  Adr.  and  Is.  van  Ostade,  and 
otlier  painters  dwelt  here  at  that  period ;  and  at  the  same  time  there 
flourished  a  school  of  architecture,  founded  by  Lieven  de  Key  (d. 
1627),  the  city-mason  of  Haarlem. 

The  Kruisweg  and  its  prolongation,  the  Kruisstraat,  lead  from 
the  station  to  the  (1/2  M.)  chief  market-place.  On  the  left,  half- 
way (Kruisweg  65),  is  the  Episcopal  Museum  (PI.  1 ;  B,  2),  a  col- 
lection of  Dutch  ecclesiastical  antiquities,  which  is  however  much 
inferior  to  that  of  Utrecht.  Admission  Mon.  to  Frid.  (holidays 
excepted)  10-5  o'clock,  25  c. ;  catalogue  25  c. 

In  the  middle  of  the  town  is  the  Groote  Markt  (PI.  B,  C,  4), 
in  which  stand  tlie  Groote  Kerk,  the  Stadhuis,  and  the  *Meat 
Market  (PI.  13 ;  B ,  4),  'erected  by  Lieven  de  Key  in  1602-3,  the 
quaintest  brick  and  stone  building  in  the  country,  perhaps  even  of 
the  entire  N.  Renaissance,  and  artistically  as  interesting  as  the  finest 
corporation-painting  of  a  Frans  Hals.  Opposite ,  at  the  corner  of 
the  Smede-Str.,  is  the  Old  Town  Hall,  now  a  barrack,  said  to  be 
older  than  the  Meat  Market,  and  restored  about  1650. 

The  Groote  Kerk  (St.  Bavo;  PI.  5;  B,  C,  4)  is  aji  imposing 
and  lofty  cruciform  church,  erected  at  the  close  of  the  15th  century, 
with  a  tower  255  ft.  high,  completed  in  1519.  A  thorough  re- 
storation of  the  edifice  has  been  in  progress  for  several  years. 


Town  Hall.  HAARLExM.  U.  Route.      287 

•Inteeiob  (sacristan's  house  on  the  S.  side  of  the  choir).  The  va\ilting 
rests  on  twenty-eight  colamns,  on  which  decorative  paintings  of  the  end 
of  the  16th  cent,  have  lately  been  brought  to  light.  The  nave  and  choir 
were  apparently  meant  to  be  covered  by  stone  vaulting,  but  are  provided 
merely  with  a  cedar-wood  roof  of  cross-vaulting,  dating  from  1530.  The 
roof  above  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transept  is,  however,  of  stone. 
The  choir-stalls  are  fine,  and  also  the  late-Gothic  brazen  screen  separating 
the  choir  from  the  nave,  which  was  erected  in  1510  by  Diderik  Syhrands- 
zoon  of  Malines  and  is  adorned  with  the  arms  of  various  donors.  By  one 
of  the  pillars,  to  the  right  in  the  choir,  is  a  monument  to  the  memory 
of  Conrad  (d.  1808),  the  engineer  who  constructed  the  locks  of  Katwyk 
(p.  285) ,  and  his  coadjutor  Brunings  (d.  1805).  The  small  models  of 
ships  suspended  from  the  adjoining  arch  commemorate  the  15th  Crusade, 
under  Count  William  I.  of  Holland.  They  date  from  1668.  the  originals 
having  fallen  into  decay.  By  the  choir  is  the  tomb  of  Bilderdyk,  the  poet 
(d.  1^1).  The  pulpit  "in  carved  wood  is  Gothic  (1482),  while  its  hand- 
some brass  railings  belong  to  the  18th  century.  A  cannon-ball  in  the  wall 
is  a  reminiscence  of  the  Spanish  siege.  The  pleasing  group  in  marble 
below  the  organ,  by  Xavenj,  represents  ecclesiastical  poetry  and  music, 
expressing  their  gratitude  to  Haarlem  for  the  erection  of  the  organ.  — 
The  stained  glass  in  the  nave  is  modern^  the  chandeliers  are  after  i6th 
cent,  patterns. 

The  "Ovgan^  constructed  in  1735-38  by  Christ.  Miiller.  and  thoroughly 
restored  in  1868,  was  long  considered  the  largest  and  most  powerful  in 
the  world,  and  still  ranks  as  one  of  the  largest  instruments  in  existence. 
It  possesses  4  keyboards,  64  stops,  and  5000  pipes,  the  largest  of  which  is 
15  inches  in  diameter  and  32  ft.  long.  Public  recitals  take  place  on  Tues- 
days from  1  to  2  p.  m.  and  on  Thursdays  from  2  to  3  p.  m.;  at  other  times 
the  organist  may  be  engaged  to  play  for  a  fee  of  13  fl.,  which  admits  one 
or  more  persons. 

In  the  large  market-place  in  front  of  the  church  rises  a  hronze 
Statue  of  Coster  (PI.  2;  B,  4),  the  alleged  inventor  of  printing, 
designed  by  Rcyer,  and  erected  in  1856. 

The  controversy  as  to  whether  Coster  or  Gutenberg  was  the  real 
inventor  of  printing  may  now  be  considered  definitely  settled  in  favour 
of  the  latter.  Recent  investigations  in  the  town  records  have,  indeed, 
proved  that  a  certa-in  Laurenz  Janszoon  Coster  lived  at  Haarlem  in  1451-55 
as  a  wine-dealer  and  tavern-keeper,  and  that  he  left  the  town  in  1483; 
but  no  mention  has  been  found  of  any  printing-office  in  his  possession. 
In  any  case,  the  works  printed  by  this  Coster,  if  such  ever  existed,  cannot 
go  back  so  far  as  1454  (the  oldest  date  of  the  Mayenoe  printer),  since  the 
story  of  Coster,  which  came  into  vogue  about  1560,  expressly  states  that 
he  was  a  grandfather  when  he  made  his  lirst  attempts.  No  works  printed 
at  Haarlem  are  known  with  a  date  either  before  or  shortly  after  1454.  It 
is,  however,  certain  that  Haarlem  was  the  first  town  in  Holland  at  which 
printing  was  practised. 

Opposite  the  principal  facade  of  the  Groote  Kerk  rises  the 
Town  Hall  (PI.  11;  B,  4),  originally  a  palace  of  the  counts  of 
Holland,  but  remodelled  in  1633,  when  also  the  ^Ing  in  the  Zyl- 
straat  was  added.  The  ^Museum  here  is  open  daily  10-4,  in  winter 
10-3  (adm.  25  c. ;  on  Sun.  12-3,  gratis;  catalogue  30  c).  It  con- 
tains a  small  but  valuable  picture-gallery,  the  only  one  where  it 
is  [possible  for  the  traveller  to  become  thoroughly  acquainted  with 
the  jovial  Frans  Hals,  the  greatest  colourist  of  the  Dutch  painters 
next  to  Rembrandt.  He  is  represented  here  by  eight  large  pictures, 
painted  at  different  stages  of  his  career.  The  other  pictures  in  the 
collection  possess  considerable  historical  interest. 

On  entering  the  building  from  the  market-place  we  ascend  the 


288     Route  41.  HAARLEM.  Museum. 

staircase  on  the  left,  and  reach  a  vestibule,  the  beams  of  which 
date  from  the  13th  cent.;  on  the  walls  are  some  portraits  and  coats- 
of-arms  of  Counts  and  Countesses  of  Holland ,  and  also  a  modern 
picture  of  the  Defence  of  Haarlem  (p.  286).  We  ring  the  bell  in 
the  right  corner. 

Room  I.  contains  nothing  of  importance.  —  Room  II.  To  the 
left,  192.  A.  Willaerts,  Naval  battle  off  Gibraltar  in  1607;  to  the 
right,  183.  Vroom,  Same  subject;  30.  Corn.  Comeliszoon,  Corpo- 
ration-banquet in  1599.  Above,  on  the  staircase,  144.  Pot,  Apo- 
theosis of  Prince  William.  —  In  the  passage,  to  the  right,  155. 
J.  van  Scorel,  Adam  and  Eve;  Qi.  F.  P.  de  Grebher,  Corporation- 
banquet  in  1610  ;  66.  Pieter  de  Grebber  (son  of  the  last),  Emp.  Fred- 
erick Barbarossa  granting  the  city  of  Haarlem  its  coat-of-arms  in 
the  presence  of  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem  (painted  in  1630). 

Principal  Room.  The  whole  of  the  left  wall  is  occupied  by  the 
** Corporation  and  Regent  Pieces  of  Frans  Hals,  arranged  in  chro- 
nological order.  The  first.  No.  71,  representing  a  Banquet  of  the 
officers  of  the  'St.  Jorisdoele',  or  Arquebusiers  of  St.  George,  was 
painted  in  1616,  in  his  thirtieth  year,  and  is  distinguished  by  the 
depth  and  vigour  of  its  colouring,  in  which  it  surpasses  even  his 
later  works.  No.  72,  the  same  subject,  with  different  portrait*, 
and  No.  73  ,  the  Banquet  of  the  officers  of  the  Arquebusiers  of  St. 
Andrew  ('Cloveniers  Doele'),  were  painted  in  1627.  His  best 
period  was  probably  about  1630,  when  he  painted  his  finest  work, 
No.  74,  representing  an  Assembly  of  the  officers  of  the  Arque- 
busiers of  St.  Andrew,  with  fourteen  life-size  figures.  Next  in 
order  of  time  are:  75,  Officers  and  sergeants  of  the  Arquebusiers  of 
St.  George,  1639  ;  and  76,  The  governors  of  the  Elizabeth  Hospital, 
1641,  which  savours  strongly  of  Rembrandt's  style.  Then,  after  a 
long  interval,  which  the  biography  of  the  master  has  not  explained, 
at  the  age  of  80,  he  painted  Nos.  77,  78,  The  governors  and  lady- 
managers  of  the  hospital  for  old  men  and  women,  both  in  1664.  — 
Among  the  other  paintings  in  this  room  are:  Jan  de  Bray,  18. 
Lady-managers  of  the  Lepers'  Hospital  in  1667,  19.  Christ  blessing 
children;  158.  Soutman,  Corporation-piece  of  1642;  20.  Jan  de 
Bray,  King  Zaleucus  sacrifices  one  of  his  eyes  in  order  to  ransom  his 
son  (1676);  ibd.  Soutman,  Corporation-piece  of  1644 ;  *175.  Ver- 
spronck,  Lady-managers  of  the  Hospital  of  the  Holy  Ghost ;  27. 
Corn.  Comeliszoon,  Corporation-banquet  of  1583  ;  21.  Jan  de  Bray, 
Apotheosis  of  Prince  Frederick  Henry  (1681);  104.  Corn.  Holsteyn, 
Parable  of  the  Labourers  in  the  Vineyard  (1647).  — On  the  wall  to 
the  right  of  the  entrance :  62.  F.  P.  de  Grebber,  Corporation-piece 
of  1619;  *96.  H.  Gzn.  Pot,  Corporation-piece  of  1630. 

Room  IV.  To  the  right,  89.  Maerten  van  Heemskerck,  St.  Luke 
painting  the  Madonna ;  *15,  *16.  Jan  de  Bray,  Governors  (1663) 
and  Lady-managers  (1664)  of  the  Orphanage;  between  these,  181. 
Vroomj  Earl  of  Leicester  landing  at  Flushing  in  1586  (painted 


Museum.  HAARLEM.  41.  Route.      289 

in  1623);  1.  Pieter  Piertersen,  Shadrach,  Meshech,  and  Abednego 
in  the  fiery  furnace  (1575);  93.  Heemskerck,  Ecce  Homo  (1559); 
184.  TVoom,  View  of  Haarlem;  26.  A.  Brouwer,  Smokers:  116. 
Pieter  Lastman  (teacher  of  Rembrandt),  Nativity.  9.  J.  Berck- 
Heyde,  Studio  of  Frans  Hals :  about  twenty  young  painters  are 
sitting  round  a  table  and  drawing  from  nature,  while  Frans  Hals 
stands  near  the  door  talking  to  Phil.  Wouverman.  who  has  paid 
him  a  visit.  24.  Pieter  Brueghel  the  Younger,  Flemish  proverbs  ; 
151.  »?aenredam,  The  NieuweKerk  at  Haarlem.  No  number.  J.  W.de 
Wet,  Healingofthe  sick  man  at  the  Pool  ofBethesda.  This  room  also 
contains  a  number  of  specimens  of  old  printing,  particularly  the 
'Spiegel  onzer  behoudenis',  on  which  the  supporters  of  Coster 
(p.  287)  specially  grounded  their  claims. 

Room  V.  ('Fabricius  Room"),  containing  a  collection  of  family 
portraits  and  other  paintings  bequeathed  to  the  town  in  1883  by 
Baron  J.  C.  W.  Fabricius.  To  the  left:  no  number,  Mierevelt,  Por- 
trait; no  number,  Verspronck.  Two  portraits;  *161.  Terburg,  Fa- 
mily-group. To  the  right:  170,  171.  Verspronck,  Two  portraits 
(1637);  177.  Victors  (pupil  of  Rembrandt),  Portrait  of  a  burgo- 
master of  Amsterdam  (1661);  *79,  *80.  Frans  Hals,  Portraits  of 
Albert  and  Cornelia  van  Nierop  (1631);  *164.  A.  van  de  Velde, 
Landscape;  *6.  G.  Berck-Heyde,  The  town-hall  of  Haarlem  (1671); 
no  number.  J.  Molenaer ,  Rustic  wedding.  At  the  entrance  is  a 
collection  of  about  30  silhouettes. 

The  attendant  also  shows  a  silver-gilt  goblet,  presented  to  Arent 
Meindertsz  Fabricius  by  the  Estates  of  Holland  and  W.  Friesland, 
in  recognition  of  his  servii^es  at  the  siege  of  Ostend  in  1603;  and 
a  collection  of  AxTiauixiBS  relating  to  Haarlem,  weapons,  glasses, 
and  instruments  of  torture.  The  beautiful  *Goblet  of  St.  Martin, 
executed  in  1604  for  the  guild  of  brewers,  who  paid  360  fl.  for  it, 
deserves  special  attention.  The  cover  was  modelled  by  Hendrik  de 
Keyser ,  and  the  medallions  by  Ernst  Janszoon  van  Vianen  from 
designs  by  Hendr.  Goltzius. 

The  Town  Library  (entrance  in  the  Priusenhof,  behind  the 
town-hall;  admission  on  Wed.  &  Sat.,  2-4)  contains  a  valuable 
collection  of  books  and  manuscripts  relating  to  the  history  of  the 
Netherlands. 

Teyler's  Museum  (PI.  12 ;  C,  4),  was  founded  in  consequence 
of  a  bequest  ol  Peter  Teyler  van  der  Hulst  (d.  1778),  a  wealthy 
Haarlem  merchant,  who  left  half  of  his  property  to  be  devoted  to 
the  promotion  of  science,  and  the  other  half  to  the  poor.  The  collec- 
tions are  open  to  visitors  in  summer  from  Monday  to  Friday  (festivals 
excepted)  from  11  to  3,  and  the  library  on  Wednesdays,  Thursdays, 
Fridays,  and  Saturdays  from  1  to  4  o'clock  (25  c).  The  old  build- 
ing in  the  Damstraat  has  been  lately  enlarged  by  a  handsome  wing 
in  the  Renaissance  style,  erected  on  the  side  next  the  Spaarne  from 
the  designs  of  Christian  Ulrich  of  Vienna.    The  Museum  includes 

Baedeker'3  Belgium  and  Holland.     lOtb  Edit.  19 


290     Route  41.  HAARLEM.         Industrial  Museum. 

a  Physical  Cabinet  with  collections  of  chemical ,  optical,  hydraulic, 
and  other  instruments ,  and  the  most  powerful  electric  batteries  in 
Europe;  a  Geological  Cabinet,  with  minerals  and  fossils  (including 
a  fossil  plesiosaurus) ;  a  Collection  of  Pictures,  consisting  of  upwards 
of  80  modern  pictures  (by  Eeckhout,  Schelfhout ,  Koekkoek,  Schotel, 
Verveer,  J.  Koster,  Ten  Kate,  Israels,  Mesdag,  Van  Hove,  Bosboom, 
etc. ;  catalogue),  exhibited  in  a  room  lighted  from  the  roof ;  a  valu- 
able Collection  of  Drawings  and  Sketches  by  old  masters;  and  a  con- 
siderable Library.  On  the  upper  floor  is  a  large  auditorium,  in  which 
scientific  lectures  are  delivered.  The  foundation  also  provides  for 
the  publication  of  a  scientific  periodical  ('Archives  du  Musee  Tey- 
ler'),  and  a  certain  sum  is  annually  set  apart  for  the  purchase  of 
prizes  to  be  competed  for  by  scientific  essayists. 

At  the  corner  of  theDamstraat  is  the  old  Weigh-House,  a  sand- 
stone building  of  1598,  by  Lieven  de  Key.  —  Opposite  the  Dam- 
straat,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Spaarne ,  are  the  headquarters  of 
the  Dutch  Scientific  Society  (secretary,  Dr.  J.  Bosscha). 

The  curious  tower  (1613)  of  the  Nieuwe  or  St.  AnnaKerk  (PI.  6 ; 
A,  5)  is  also  by  Lieven  de  Key.  The  unattractive  nave  was  built 
in  1649  by  De  Bray.  Not  far  off  is  the  reformed  Orphanage  for 
Girls ,  built  by  Lieven  de  Key  in  1608  as  an  Oudemannenhuis, 
from  funds  supplied  by  festivals  of  the  Rederykamern  (p.  96);  the 
dining-hall  is  interesting.  —  The  new  Roman  Catholic  Church 
(PI.  14 ;  C,  5)  is  also  distinguished  by  a  handsome  tower. 

The  *Park  of  Haarlem  (or  Hout,  i.e.  wood),  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  town,  is  a  beautiful  and  extensive  plantation  of  fine  old  beeches, 
intersected  by  walks,  enlivened  by  tame  deer,  and  surrounded  with 
villas,  cafes,  and  places  of  holiday  resort.  The  Flora  Park  (PI.  A,  7) 
is  one  of  the  pleasant  parts  of  it ;  band  on  Sun.  afternoons  and  Wed. 
evenings. 

In  this  wood,  about  1/2  M.  from  the  Houtpoort,  and  IV4  M. 
from  the  railway  -  station ,  is  situated  the  Pavilion  (Paviljoen 
Welgelegen ;  PI.  A,  B,  7),  a  chateau  erected  by  the  wealthy  banker 
Mr.  Hope  of  Amsterdam  in  the  Italian  style  and  afterwards  pur- 
chased by  Louis  Napoleon,  King  of  Holland.  It  is  now  the  pro- 
perty of  government  and  contains  several  national  collections.  On 
the  first  floor  is  the  Art-Industrial  Museum  (Museum  van  Kunst- 
nyverheid),  founded  by  a  society  in  1877  (adm.  daily,  10-4,  25  c.  ; 
catalogue  25  c).  The  collection  consists  of  models,  copies,  and 
drawings  of  the  most  celebrated  products  of  the  artistic  industries 
of  ancient  and  modern  times.  It  is  arranged  in  the  following 
groups :  Woven  Fabrics,  Wood-carvings,  Works  in  metal,  Ivory- 
carvings,  Pottery,  Architecture,  Sculpture,  Drawing  and  Designing, 
Costume.  The  section  of  engravings  and  wood-cuts  contains  4000 
specimens.  —  In  connection  with  the  museum  is  a  school  of  design, 
which  occupies  the  building  next  door  to  the  Pavilion  and  is 
attended  by  225  students. 


Horticulture.  HAARLEM.  41.  Route.      291 

On  the  ground-floor  of  the  same  building  is  the  Colonial  Museum, 
founded  in  1871  (entered  from  the  great  avenue ,  second  door  to 
the  left;  adm.  on  Sun.  by  tickets  obtained  gratis  on  other  days; 
catalogue  25  c) ,  which  contains  a  copious  collection  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  Dutch  colonies,  chiefly  those  in  the  E.  Indies.  Director 
of  both  Museums,  Mr.  F.W.  van  Eeden. 

Haarlem  is  famous  for  its  Horticulture.  The  flower-beds  of 
the  numerous  nursery  -  gardens  display  their  gayest  colours  and 
diffuse  their  most  delicious  perfumes  about  the  end  of  April  and 
the  beginning  of  May.  Whole  fields  of  hyacinths,  tulips,  crocuses, 
anemones,  lilies,  etc.,  grouped  in  every  variety  of  colour,  are  seen 
on  the  S.  and  W.  sides  of  the  town.  Many  of  the  finest  gardens 
in  Europe  are  supplied  with  roots  from  Haarlem ,  and  Holland 
claims  the  merit  of  having  promoted  horticulture  to  a  greater  extent 
than  any  other  country  in  the  world.  One  of  the  leading  firms  is 
that  of  E.  H.  Krelage  ^'  Son,  who  possess  a  beautiful  winter-garden 
and  hot-houses  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  Kleine  Houtweg  17-27  (PI. 
B,  6  ;  visitors  admitted  on  writing  their  names  in  the  visitors'  book; 
best  hours  10-12,  2-4,  and  in  summer  6-8  also ;  fee  to  the  gardener 
who  acts  as  a  guide).  A  visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  large  nur- 
series oi  Messrs.  J.  D.  Zocher  4'  Voorhelm  Schneevoogt  ^  known  as 
the  Rozenhagen,  on  the  Schooterweeg  (PI.  C,  1),  opposite  the  Ken- 
nem  bridge. 

In  1636  and  1637  the  flower-trade  in  Holland  assumed  the  form  of  a 
mania,  and  tulips  became  as  important  an  object  of  speculation  as  rail- 
way-shares and  the  public  funds  at  the  present  day.  Capitalists,  mer- 
chants, and  even  private  individuals  entirely  ignorant  of  floriculture, 
traded  extensively  in  bulbs,  and  frequently  amassed  considerable  fortunes. 
.  The  rarer  bulbs  often  realised  enormous  prices.  It  is  recorded,  for  ex- 
ample, that  a  'Semper  Augustus'  was  sold  for  13,000  fl.,  an  'Admiral  Lief- 
kens'  for  4500  fl.,  a  'Viceroy'  for  4200  fl.,  etc.  A  single  Dutch  town  is 
said  to  have  gained  upwards  of  10  million  fl.  by  the  sale  of  tulip-roots 
in  one  year,  and  a  speculator  at  Amsterdam  realised  68,000  fl.  in  four 
months  in  the  same  manner.  At  length,  however,  a  corresponding  re- 
action set  in.  Government  declared  that  the  contracts  made  were  illegal, 
and  the  mania  speedily  subsided.  The  prices  fell  so  rapidly  that  many 
of  the  bolder  speculators  were  totally  ruined,  and  before  long  a  root  of 
the  highly-prized  'Semper  Augustus'  might  be  purchased  for  50  fl.  About 
a  century  later  a  similar  phenomenon  occured  in  the  trade  in  hyacinths, 
and  an  official  list  of  1731  mentions  a  'Bleu  Paste  non  plus  ultra'  as  hav- 
ing been  sold  for  1600  florins.  —  The  library  of  Messrs.  Krelage  contains 
an  interesting  collection  of  works  relating  to  the  tulip-trade. 

The  most  attractive  place  in  the  Environs  of  Haarlem  (see  Map, 
p.  335),  which  are  much  admired  by  the  Dutch,  is  the  beau- 
tiful village  of  Bloemendaal,  with  its  numerous  country-residences 
and  park-like  grounds,  situated  2^/2  M.  to  the  N."W.  of  Haarlem,  at 
the  back  of  the  Dunes  (omnibuses  run  frequently  in  summer, 
starting  from  the  Haarlem  railway-station;  fare  15  c).  One  of 
the  highest  points  of  these  sand-hills  is  the  Brederode'sche  Berg, 
or  Blaauwe  Trappen,  about  41/2  M.  from  Bloemendaal,  and  close  to 
the  lunatic  asylum  of  Meerenberg  and  the  picturesque  red  brick 
ruins  of  the  chateau  of  Brederode,  once  the  seat  of  the  powerful 

19* 


292     Route  41.  ZANDVOORT. 

counts  of  that  name  (reached  also  from  the  station  of  Zandpoort; 
p.  339).  (^Near  the  ruins  is  a  good  inn ,  called  the  Velserend.) 
The  extensive  view  to  the  E.  embraces  the  admirably  cultivated 
and  partly  wooded  plains  of  N.  Holland,  Haarlem,  the  Haarlemmer 
and  Wyker  Meer,  the  Y,  Amsterdam,  the  innumerable  windmills 
of  Zaandam,  the  undulating  and  sterile  sand-hills,  and  the  sea. 
The  whole  excursion  from  Haarlem  via  Bloemendaal  to  Brederode 
and  back ,  including  the  ascent  of  the  Brederode'sche  Berg  (1  M. 
from  Velserend),  may  be  accomplished  by  carriage  in  about  3  hrs. 
(one-horse  cab  4fl.). — A  similar  prospect,  made  famous  by  Kuys- 
dael's  landscapes,  may  be  enjoyed  from  the  Dunes  near  the  village 
of  Overveen  (1 1/2  M.  to  the  W,  of  Haarlem),  on  the  road  to  Bloemen- 
daal ;  railway  see  below. 


About  572  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Haarlem  lies  the  sea-bathing 
place  of  Zandvoort,  which  is  connected  with  the  main  line  of  the 
state-railway  by  a  branch  passing  Overveen  (see  above;  fares  60, 
45,  30  c).  The  line  affords  an  interesting  survey  of  the  Dunes. 
—  Carriage  from  Haarlem  to  Zandvoort  4-5  fl. 

Zandvoort.  —  Hotels.  On  the  dunes,  with  free  view  of  the  sea: 
*HuTKL  KuKZAAL,  nearest  the  station,  E.,  L.,  &  A.  11/2-7  fl.,  A.  80  c, 
I).  21/2,  pens,  from  6V2  A-i  Hotel  de  L'OcfiAN,  similar  charges.  —  Some- 
what farther  back,  Hotel  Victoria.  —  More  to  the  S.,  near  the  village: 
Hotel  Kaufmann.  R.  3V-',  pens.  V/i  fl.;  Gkoot  Badhuis  ;  Hotel  Belve- 
dere ;  Villa  Maris  (R.  from  14  fl.  per  vreek  ,  'pens.'  31/2  fl.),  and  others, 
all  commanding  a  view  of  the  sea.  In  the  village:  Hotel  Drieuuizen. 
Numerous  private  lodgings. 

Bathing  Coach,  35-50  c,  12  tickets  5  fl.,  including  bathing-dress.  The 
custom  of  promiscuous  bathing  has  been  introduced  here  as  at  Scheven- 
ingen,  but  there  are  also  separate  bathing-places  for  ladies  and  gentlemen. 

Jlorses,  1  fl.  per  hr.  —  Sailing-boat,  1  fl.  per  hr. 

Zandvoort,  a  village  on  the  extreme  margin  of  the  chain  of 
sand-hills,  has  lately  become  so  popular  as  almost  to  rival  Scheve- 
ningen  as  a  sea-bathing  place.  The  railway  (station  in  the  village, 
see  below)  ends  at  the  foot  of  the  dunes.  From  the  station  (omn. 
to  the  dunes)  a  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  a  covered  Oallery,  con- 
taining shops,  caf^s,  etc.  Adjoining  the  Gallery  is  the  Hotel  Kur- 
zaal,  with  a  terrace  and  music  pavilion  on  the  side  next  the  sea. 
The  whole  settlement  is  a  creation  of  the  last  ten  years  and  bears  the 
name  of  Nieuw- Zandvoort,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  fishing-village 
of  Zandvoort  lying  close  behind  the  dunes,  about  ^/o  M.  to  the  S. 
ctramway  from  the  station).  At  the  village  is  a  marine  hospital  for 
thildren  (53  beds).  Amsterdam  is  supplied  with  drinking-water  from 
(he  neighbouring  Vogelsang  Dunes.  —  From  Zandvoort  a  walk 
should  be  taken  to  the  North  Sea  Canal  (p.  337),  about  6  M.  off, 
returning  by  rail. 


uav  isuv  \|dB.i3oa'j 


^ip^JotinMO.Ti  ■■         gs 


293 


42.    Amsterdam. 


Railway  Stations.  1.  Central  Station  (PI.  C,  D,  2-,  -Restaurant),  for  all 
trains,  including  those  of  the  Rhenish  Railway,  2.  Rhenish  Station  (PL  G, 
4,  5),. for  Utrecht,  Gouda,  the  Hague,  Rotterdam,  Arnhem,  Germany,  and 
Belgium.  —  Cab,  per  V2  hr.  60  c,  1  hr.  SO  c,  each  additional  '/<  hr.  20  c.  ; 
trunk  30  c,  small  luggage  free;  night  charges,  see  p.  294.  —  Tramway  to 
the  Dam  (p.  299),  71/2  c,  comp.  p.  294. 

Hotels.  *Ajistel  Hotel  (PI.  a;  F,  5),  the  property  of  a  company, 
with  railway  booking- oftice ,  baths,  telegraph,  etc.,  near  the  Rhenish 
Station ,  with  200  R.  at  2-6  fl. ,  B.  75,  L.  25,  A.  50  c. ,  table  d'hote  at 
5.30,  2V2  fl.,  omn.  50c.;  -Bracks  Doelen  Hotel  (PI.  b;  E,  4),  Doelen- 
straat,  with  similar  charges;  'Hotel  Victoria  (PI.  1;  D,  2),  at  the  corner 
of  the  Damrak  and  Prins  Hendrik-Kade,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  2-8  fl.,  B.  70  c,  dej. 
11/4,  D.  2V2  fl.  —  *H(jtel  AsifiKiCAiN  (PI.  3;  D,  5),  Leidsche  Plein,  R.,  L., 
&  A.  from  13/4,  B.  1/2  A-,  tariff  exhibited  in  the  rooms;  Rondeel  (PI.  c; 
E,  4),  Pays-Bas  (PI.  d;  E.  4),   both  in  the  Doelenstraat,  R.  2-3  fl.,   L.  20, 

A.  25,  B.  80  c,  D.  incl.  wine  21/2  fl.;  *Bible  Hotel  (PI.  e;  D,  3),  between 
the  Damrak  and  Warmoesstraat,  with  120  rooms  from  1^/4  11.  upward  (L. 
&  A.  included),  B.  80  c.,  D.  2'/2  fl.  —  Second-class:  Hotel  de  l'Europe, 
Prins  Hendrik-Kade  21  (PI.  D,  2),  with  restaurant,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  1-2,  D. 
IVafl.;  'Hotel  Adrian  (PI.  k;  D,3);  'H6tel-Caf£  Jneuf,  R.  I'/z  fl-,  B.  70, 
L.  30c.;  Hotel  &  Cafe-Eestaur.  du  Commerce;  *HoTEL-CAFfi  Suisse 
(PI.  g;  D,  3);  these  four  in  the  Kalverstraat,  with  cafes;  Hotel-Cafe 
WiLLEMSEN,  Heiligenweg  26,  near  the  Kalverstraat;  Mille  Colonnes, 
with  cafe,  in  the  Rembrandtsplein  (see  below),  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  2-2V2, 
D.  11/2  fl.;  Krasnapolskt,   Warmoesstraat  (PI.  D,  3),  R. ,    L. ,    &   A.   2-5, 

B.  V2-'/4,  D.  ~V2  fl-1  with  a  large  cafe -restaurant  (see  below);  "Stad 
Elberfeld   (PI.  p;  E,  3),  Achterburgwal,  commercial,  R.  &  B.  from  21/2  fl. 

—  De  Oude  Graaf  (PI.  1  D,  3),  D.  2  fl.,  Poolsche  Koffiehcis,  R.,  L.,  & 
A.  2,  D.  1>;2,  plat  du  jour  V2fl.,  and  De  Joxoe  Graaf,  D.  11/2  fl.j  all  three 
in  the  Kalverstraat,  suitable  for  gentlemen  travelling  alone;  Hotel  Haas 
(PI.  o;  D,  3),  Papenbrugsteeg,  R.  &  B.  IV4  fl. ;  Oldewelt  (PI.  q;  D,  2), 
Nieuwendyk  100;  Hotel  &  CAFfi  Rembrandt  (PI.  E,  4),  Rembrandtsplein; 
Hotel  Hollandais  (PI.  t;  D,  5),  Leidsche  Plein,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  2-2V2,  D. 
11/2  fl.;  -Hotel  DU  Palais  Royal,  Paleisstraat,  near  the  Dam;  Hotel-Cafe 
DE  Becrs.  Damrak  95,  R.  &  B.  11/2-174  A.  —  ''Hotel  Garni  Huffnagel, 
Fransche  Laan,  near  the  Zoological  Garden  (PL  F,  3),  a  family-house  in  a 
pleasant  and  quiet  situation. 

Restaurants  (often  crowded  about  5  p.m.).  'Riche^  Rokin  84,  near  the 
Dam,  French  cuisine,  D.  3-5fl.;  'Van  Laar,  Kalverstraat  3;  these  two  of 
the  lirst-class:  'Hotel  Amdricain,  see  above,  D.  from  5  to  7  p.m.  IV2  tL ; 
Het  Gouden  Iloo/d.  Rembrandtsplein  .39 ;  Krasnapolsky,  Warmoesstraat,  see 
below,  D.  from  5  to  7  p.m.  2V2  fl- ;  Panopticum,  Amstelstraat,  opposite  the 
Grand  Theatre  (PL  E.  4|;  De  Karseboom.  Kalverstraat;  "Port  van  Cleve,  near 
the  post-office,  opposite  the  Isieuwe  Kerk ;  Ca/6  Neubauer,  Kalverstraat  2; 
Miiller,  Warmoesstraat  196;  Buhnlorf,  Warmoesstraat  193;  Polman^  Zum 
/•ac^o/v,  W^armoesstraat ,  Xos.195,  178;  Schiitzenliesl,  Warmoesstraat  157; 
''Westrus,  Damrak  60;  American  Bar,  Rokin  20;  Wiener  Ca/6,  Rokin  22; 
Cafi  Riener,  Rokin  126;  Kieselbach,  Kalverstraat  64.  Bavarian  or  Bohemian 
beer  can  be  obtained  at  most  of  these  restaurants.  Restaurants  at  most  of 
the  hotels.  —  Wine  Rooms :  Aux  Caves  de  France^  Kalverstraat  53  ;  Bodega, 
Goomans,  same  street  234,  223. —  Oysters,  fish,  etc.  :  Van  Laar,  Kalverstraat, 
see  above;  Te  Mytelaar ,  Ulrechtsche  Straat  2,  etc.;  oysters  80c.  to  1  fl. 
20  c.  per  dozen. 

Cafes.  Krasnapolsky,  Warmoesstraat  (PL  D,  3),  one  of  the  largest  cafes 
in  Europe,  with  a  garden  and  numerous  billiard  tables;  '-Mille  Colonnes,  in 
the  Rembrandtsplein;  Poolsche,  Suisse,  Neuf,  all  in  the  Kalverstraat;  Cafi 
Amiricain,  Caf^  Ilollandais,  LeiAsche  Plein;  Continental,  Sarphatistraat, 
next  door  to  the  Amstel  Hotel  (PL  F,  4,  5),  with  garden;  Paviljoen,  in 
the  Vondels-Park  (p.  334).  —  Confectioner.    Van  Giesen,  Kalverstraat,  220. 

—  Liqueurs  (Curacao,  'Half-om-half  \  'Maagbitter',  etc.).  Wynand-Fockink, 
a  firm  founded  in  1679,  the  retail  business  carried  on  in  curious  old  pre- 


294      Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Theatres. 

mises  in  the  Pylsteeg  (entrance  by  No.  19  Damstraat;  PI.  D,  3);  Erven  Lucas 
Bols,  founded  in  1575.  Kalverstraat  32;  both  much  frequented  during  the 
business-hours  of  the  Exchange;  De  Brie  Flesschen,  Gravenstraat. 

Baths.  Swimming  Baths  in  the  Y,  at  *Van  Heemstede-Obelt,  De 
Ruyter  Kade  150,  and  at  the  W.  Dock  (PI.  E,  1);  also  in  the  Amstel^  near 
the  Schollebrug,  to  which  a  small  steamer  plies.  Warm  Baths.  'Van  Hcem- 
stede-Obelt,  see  above;  in  the  Rokin  (PI.  D,  4);  on  the  Heerengracht  (No. 
158j,  near  the  Leliegracht  (PI.  C,  3);   at  the  hotels,  etc. 

Shops.  The  best  are  on  the  Nieuwendyk  and  in  the  Kalverstraat, 
Damstraat,  Paleisstraat,  Leidsche  Straat,  Leidsche  Plein,  Galery  (p.  306), 
and  Utrechtsche  Straat.  —  Photographs:  H.  Parson,  Kalverstraat  218.  — 
Photographees:  Wegner  <L-  Motta^  Rokin  136.  —  Booksellers:  Siilpke, 
Kalverstraat  179;  Seyffardt,  Damrak99,  by  the  Exchange;  i/M»e/-,  Singel  286  : 
Van  Gogh,  Keizersgracht  453.  —  Art  Dealers  :  ^Pictura\  Wolvenstraat  19 
(PI.  C,  D.  4),  ancient  and  modern  paintings  and  drawings ;  Franz  Buffa  &  Sons, 
Kalverstraat39,  pictures  and  engravings  A;  Miillerd-  Co.,Doelenstraat;  Schel- 
tema  &  Holkema,  Rokin  74,  modern  paintings;  Van  Gogh,  see  above.  — 
Drawing  Materials;  C.  L.  C.  Voskuil,  Keguliers-Breestraat  32,  between 
Kalverstraat  and  Rembrandtsplein.  —  Antiquities  :  Boasherg,  Kalverstraat 
63;  Goudstikker  d-  Molpurgo,  Kalverstraat  49  (also  old  pictures);  Speyer  & 
Zoon,  Kalverstraat  10.  — Faience  :  Focke  d-  Melizer,  Kalverstraat.  —  Ci(;ars  : 
ffajeniun,  in  the  Dam,  at  the  corner  of  the  Beurssteeg;  Reynvaan,  opposite 
the  Ilutel  des  Pays-Bas,   Weinthal,  Boele,  shops  in  several  streets. 

Money  Changers.  Twentsche  Bank,  Spuistraat ;  Kramer  d  Co.,  Vygen- 
dam,  between  the  Dam  and  the  Damstraat  (PI.  D,  3);  Anspach  d  Donk, 
Nieuwczyds-Voorburgwal,  at  the  Molsteeg. 

Theatres  (the  larger  are  closed  in  summer).  The  company  from  the  Stads 
Schouicburg  (PI.  D,  5)  in  the  Leidsche  Plein,  burned  down  in  1890,  play 
at  present  in  the  Planiage  summer-theatre,  Fransche  Laan.  —  Grand 
Theatre  (PI.  E,  4).  in  the  Amstelstraat ,  chiefly  devoted  to  the  Dutch 
drama;  German  performances  are  sometimes  given.  Performances  begin 
at  7.30  p.m.  The  charges  for  admission  vary.  —  Park-Schouwhurg  (PI.  F,  3), 
near  the  Park,  decorated  in  the  Oriental  style,  for  Dutch  operas  and  spec- 
tacular pieces.  —  Frascati  (PI.  F,  3),  Middeilaan,  near  the  Parklaan,  Dutch 
vaudevilles.  —  Ilet  Paleis  voor  Volksvlyt  (Palace  of  Industry,  PI.  F,  5)  is 
a  large  establishment  capable  of  holding  12,000  persons,  where  concerts, 
operettaSj'etc,  are  frequently  given;  symphony-concerts  are  given  on  Thurs. 
at  8  p.m.  and  Sun.  at  1.30  p.m.  (adm.  usually  50-75  c;  comp.  p.  306).  — 
Circus  Carre,  on  the  Binnenamstel  near  the  Hoogenshiis  (PI.  F,  4),  from 
Octr.  to  June.  —  Thidtre  Victoria,  Walhalla,  cafes  chantants  in  the  Nes 
(PI.  D,  4),  between  the  Rokin  and  the  Oudezyds  Voorburgwal  (other  places 
of  the  same  kind  in  the  neighbourhood).  —  Salon  des  VariHes  (PI.  E,  4), 
in  the  Amstelstraat,  is  a  popular  resort,  where  smoking  and  drinking  form 
part  of  the  entertainment  (adm.  60  c). 

Panorama,  in  the  Plantage  Middeilaan  (PI-  G,  3),  with  an  exhibition 
of  paintings.  —  Panopticum  (PI.  E,  4),  Amstelstraat,  adm.  50  c. 

Concerts.  In  the  new  Concert- Gebouw,  behind  the  Ryks  Museum  (PI. 
D,  6).  At  the  Paleis  voor  Volksvlyt,  see  above.  In  the  Zoological  Gardens 
(p.  306),  on  Sun.  afternoons  and  Wed.  evenings  in  summer.  At  the  Vondels- 
Park  {^.  334),  in  summer.  At  the  Tolhnis ,  a  popular  tea-garden  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  Amsterdam  (p.  336),  in  summer,  occasionally. 

Cabs.  Per  '/z  hr.  (50  c.  between  7  a.m.  and  midnight,  1  fl.  at  night;  per 
hour  80  c.  and  I1/2  fl. ;  each  additional  quarter  of  an  hour  20  and  25  c. 
Luggage  see  p.  293. 

Tramways  (comp.  the  Plan).  The  central  stations  are  the  Dam  (PI.  D,  3) 
and  the  Leidsche  Plein  (PI.  D,  5),  from  which  lines  diverge  in  all  direc- 
tions. Fare  on  all  routes  10  c. ,  including  'correspondance'  ('overstap 
kaartjesM.  Subscription-tickets  at  7  c.  are  sold  in  the  streets.  —  Omnibus 
from  the  Nieuwe  Zyds  Voorburgwal  (p.  297),  behind  the  Paleis  (PI.  D,  3) 
to  the  Zoological  Garden  and  the  Abattoirs ;  to  the  S.  to  the  Leidsche  Plein 
and  the  Byks  Museum;  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Amsteldyck,  71/2  c,  there  and 
back  10  c.  Also  from  the  Waterloo  Plein  (PI.  E,  3,4)  via  the  Keizers- 
gracht or  Heerengracht  to  the  Ileerenmarkt  (PI.  C,  2).  —  Steam  Tramway  : 


Collections.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.      295 

1.  From  the  Haarlem  Plein  (PI.  B,  2)  to  Slotet'dyk  (15  c).  and  from  the 
Rhenish  Station  (PI.  G,  4,  5)  to  Mwden  (p.  337j,  Naarden ,  and  Silver- 
sum  (p.  346).  2.  From  the  Damrak  (PI.  D,  3)  via  Brcek  (p.  388)  and  Mon- 
nikendam  (p.  33S)  to  Edam  (p.  33S)  ;  a  small  steamer  crosses  the  Y. 

Steamboats,  a.  In  the  Hakbock  (Havenstoombootdienst):  1.  From 
the  Prins-Hendrik-Kade,  to  the  N.  of  the  Damrak  (PI.  D,  2),  across  the  Y 
to  the  Koninginnedok  (p.  298),  and  to  the  Rietlande,  at  the  N.E.  corner 
of  the  town-,  then  by  the  locks  mentioned  at  p.  337  to  the  Zeebtirg, 
a  popular  resort  and  garden,  every  72  ^^-  —  ~-  From  the  Schreyerstoven 
(Tl.  52;  E,  2;  p.  293)  to  Xieuicenda'm  (p.  337)  every  hour  from  7  to  11  a.m. 
and  from  i  to  7  p.m.  —  3.  From  the  X.  end  of  the  Rokin  ^  near  the  Dam 
(PL  D ,  3) ,  stopping  at  the  Amstelstraat ,  Amstel  Hotel ,  etc. ,  to  the 
Schollenb)'vg  every  10  min. ,  and  to  Diemen  every  hour.  —  4.  On  the 
Amstel^  from  the  Achtergracht  (PI.  F,  4),  to  Ouderkevk^  a  village  to  the  8. 
of  Amsterdam,  every  hour,  from  7  to  11  a.m.  and  from  1  to  7  p.m.  — 
5.  From  the  De  Ruytev-Kade  (PI.  D,  2)  to  the  Tolhuis  (p.  33G),  every  »/<  hr. 
—  The  times  of  departure  vary  vrith  the  season  of  the  year  (comp.  the 
Officieele  Reisgids).  —  Steamers  can  be  hired  for  excursions,  tariffs  to  be 
had  from  the  conductors. 

b.  Other  Steamers  :  to  Alkmaar  (p.  340),  twice  daily ;  to  Zaandam, 
see  p.  336;  to  Purmerend  (p.  342),  8  times  daily;  to  Edam,  see:p.  338;  to 
Kampen  and  Zwolle  (pp.  348,  347),  dailv;  to  Leydeii,  several  times  dailv; 
to  Rotterdam  (p.  246),  daily;  to  Hoorn  (p.  343),  daily;  to  Harlingen  (p.  346), 
daily;  to  Leith,  once  fortnightly;  to  London,  twice  weekly  (fares  23  «., 
15  «.);  to  Hull,  twice  weekly;  to  Liverpool  fortnightly.  A  steamer  also 
plies  nearlv  everv  Sun.  in  summer  to  the  island  of  Mavken  (p.  338).  start- 
ing at  10  a.m.  at  the  Westerdok ,  behind  the  Central  Station  (p.  298). 
(Consult   the   Officieele  Reisgids,  mentioned  at  p.  xxvi.) 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  D,  3),  in  the  Xieuwezyds  Voorburgwal, 
at  the  back  of  the  Palace.  There  are  several  branch  post  and  telegraph 
offices. 

British  Consul,  W.  G.  Robinson,  Esq.,  Prins  Hendrik-Kade  183  (office- 
hours  10-2).  —  United  States  Consul:  Theodore  M.  Sihleier,  Esq.,  Doelen- 
straat  20  (oflke-hours  10-3). 

English  Episcopal  Church  (PI.  17),  Groene  Burgwal  42;  service  at  10.30 
a.m.;  chaplain,  Rev.  James  Chambers.  —  Presbyterian  Church  in  the  Begy- 
nenhof;    service  at  10  a.m. 

Collections,  Museums,  Galleries,  etc. 

Arti  et  Amicitiae,  historical  picture-gallery  (p.  303),  daily  10-4;  ad- 
mission 25  c. 

Blind  Institution  (p.  334),  Wednesdays,  10-12. 

Botanical  Garden  (p.  307),  daily,  10-5;  admission  25  c. 

Cattle  Market  and  Abattoir,  on  the  Cruquius  road  and  the  Veelan, 
daily  except  Sun.;  gratuity  to  porter. 

Exchange  (p.  299),  daily;  business-hour  1-2V2;  admission  25  c. 

Library  (municipal),  on  the  Singel,  near  the  Heiligenweg,  daily  9-4, 
but  in  July  and  August  four  times  a  week  only,  1-4. 

Mu4ieum  Fodor  (p.  304),  daily,  except  Tuesdays,  from  10  (Sundays 
from  11)  to  4  (Jfov. -Feb.  11-3);  admission  on  Sundays  25  c,  on  other 
days  50  c. 

Palace,  Royal  (p.  300),  daily,  9  or  10  to  4  (3  on  Sun.);  fee  for  one  per- 
son 50  c.,  and  50  c.  more  for  the  ascent  of  the  tower  (*View). 

Panopticum  and  Panorama,  see  p.  294. 

Ryks  Museum  (p.  303),  daily,  except  Mon.,  10-5  (in  winter  10-4);  on 
Sun.   and  holidays,  12.30-5. 

Seamen  s  Training  School  (p.  298),  3Ion.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Frid.,  and  Sat., 
gratis  ;  closed  in  August. 

Stadhuis  (p.  302),  daily,  best  before  or  after  office-hours  (9-4) ;  fee  50  c. 

Toicn  Hall,  see  Stadhuis. 

Zoological  Garden  (p.  306),  daily,  admission  50  c. ;  open  in  summer  from 
6  a.m.  to  10  p.m.,  but  the  larger  animals  not  visible  after  7  p.m.;  concerts 
in  summer  on  Wednesday  evenings  and  Monday  forenoons  and  evenings. 


296     Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  History. 

Principal  Attractions :  Ryks  Museum  (p.  308) ;  Zoological  Garden  (p.  306) ; 
Walk  by  the  Harbour  (p.  297)  and  through  the  Jewish  quarter  (p.  307); 
ferry  to  the  Kuninginnedok,   Nieuwendam,  or  the  Tolhuis.  (p.  336). 

Amsterdam,  the  commercial  capital  of  Holland,  lies  at  the  in- 
flux of  the  Amstel  into  the  Y  or  Ij  (pronounced  as  i  long),  an  arm 
of  the  Zuiderzee  which  has  heen  formed  into  an  excellent  harbour. 
The  town  originated  at  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  when  Gys- 
brechtll.,  lord  of  Amstel,  built  a  castle  here  (1204)  and  constructed 
the  dam  which  has  given  rise  to  its  name.  In  1275  Count  FlorensV. 
of  Holland  granted  the  town  exemption  from  the  imposts  of  Holland 
and  Zeeland,  and  in  1311  it  was  finally  united  with  Holland.  In  the 
14th  cent,  the  town  began  to  assume  greater  importance,  and  was 
sought  as  an  asylum  by  exiled  merchants  of  Brabant.  In  1421  one- 
third  of  the  town  was  destroyed  by  a  conflagration,  but  its  prosperity 
soon  returned,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  Spanish  troubles  Am- 
sterdam had  become  a  very  important  city.  In  1490  the  Emp. 
Maximilian  I.  gave  the  city  the  privilege  of  using  the  Imperial 
Crown  as  the  crest  in  its  armorial  bearings.  The  real  importance 
and  prosperity  of  Amsterdam  date  from  the  close  of  the  16th  cent., 
when  the  Spanish  war  had  ruined  Antwerp,  and  the  horrors  of  the 
Inquisition  had  compelled  numbers  of  enterprising  merchants,  skil- 
ful manufacturers,  and  distinguished  artists  to  seek  a  new  home 
in  Holland.  Between  1585  and  1595  the  town  was  nearly  doubled 
in  extent,  and  was  greatly  favoured  by  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange. 
The  conclusion  of  peace  shortly  afterwards  (1609)  and  the  esta- 
blishment of  the  E.  India  Company  combined  to  raise  Amsterdam 
within  a  very  short  period  to  the  rank  of  the  greatest  mercantile 
city  in  Europe.  External  circumstances ,  such  as  the  attempt  of 
William  II.  of  Orange  to  occupy  the  city  with  his  troops  (1650),  and 
the  danger  threatened  by  the  campaign  of  Louis  XIV.  (1672),  did 
not  seriously  afi"ect  the  prosperity  of  the  inhabitants.  After  the  dis- 
solution of  the  Dutch  Republic  in  1806,  Amsterdam  became  the 
residence  of  King  Louis  Napoleon  (1808),  and  subsequently  the 
third  city  in  the  Empire  of  France  (1810-13).  The  population  was 
in  1890,  excluding  the  suburbs  406,300  (80,000  Roman  Catholics, 
30,000  German  and  3500  Portuguese  Jews). 

The  trade  of  Amsterdam  revived  rapidly  after  the  restoration  of 
the  national  independence,  and  is  now  very  important,  though  the 
number  of  ships  that  enter  and  clear  the  harbour  is  still  scarcely  a 
third  of  that  at  Antwerp.  In  1889  1538  vessels  with  cargoes 
(2,685,000  tons)  entered  and  1035  laden  vessels  (1,653,000  tons) 
cleared  at  Amsterdam.  As  the  chief  mart  for  the  colonial  produce  of 
the  Dutch  colonies  (tobacco,  Java  coft-ee,  sugar,  rice,  spices,  etc.),  Am- 
sterdam is  indeed  one  of  the  first  commercial  places  in  Europe.  Its 
Industries  are  also  considerable,  including  refineries  of  sugar  and 
camphor,  tobacco  and  cobalt-blue  manufactories,  breweries,  and 
diamond  polishing  mills  (p.  307). 

The  older  part  of  the  city  is  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle,  the 


I 


Harbour.  AMSTERDAM.  42.   Route.      297 

diameter  being  formed  by  the  Y.  Canals  or  'Grachten'  of  various 
sizes  intersect  the  city  in  every  direction,  and  divide  it  into  90  is- 
lands, wbich  are  connected  by  means  of  nearly  300  bridges.  The 
depth  of  water  in  the  Grachten  is  about  3-3i/'2  ft.,  below  which  is 
a  layer  of  mud  of  equal  thickness.  To  prevent  malarial  exhalations 
the  water  is  constantly  renewed  by  an  arm  of  the  North  Sea  Canal^ 
while  the  mud  is  removed  by  dredgers.  Some  of  the  Grachten 
have  been  entirely  filled  up  ('gedempt'),  as,  e.  g.,  recently  the 
Nieuice  Zyds  Voorburgwal,  now  one  of  the  main  approaches  from 
the  new  central  station  to  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  chief  concen- 
tric canals  within  the  city  arethe Prinsengracht^  Ke izer s gr acht,  a.ni 
Heerengracht  (49  yds.  wide),  flanked  with  avenues  of  elms,  and 
presenting  a  pleasant  and  at  places  a  handsome  and  picturesque 
appearance.  The  finest  buildings,  including  many  in  the  peculiar 
Dutch  brick  style  of  the  17th  century,  are  on  the  Keizersgracht  and 
Heerengracht.  Among  the  influential  architects  of  that  day  may 
be  mentioned  Hendrik  de  Keyser  (1567-1621),  Jacob  vanKampen 
(1598-1657),  and  Philip Yingboons  (1608-1675).  The  other  Grachten 
(70  in  number)  are  connected  with  these,  and  are  bordered  with  hand- 
some rows  of  houses,  constructed  of  red  brick.  The  Singel-Gracht, 
6^2  M'  long?  and borderedby handsome quays(Nassaukade,  Stadhou- 
derskade,  andMauritskade),  separates  the  old  town  from  thenew  quar- 
ters which  have  sprung  up  within  the  last  20  years.  The  extension 
is  mainly  on  the  S.  side  between  the  Amstel  and  the  Yondels- 
Park,  and  also  on  the  E.  and  W.  sides,  where  many  new  streets 
have  been  built. 

The  houses  are  all  constructed  on  foundations  of  piles,  a  fact 
which  gave  rise  to  the  jest  of  Erasmus  of  Rotterdam,  that  he  knew 
a  city  whose  inhabitants  dwelt  on  the  tops  of  trees  like  rooks.  The 
upper  stratum  of  the  natural  soil  is  loam  and  loose  sand,  upon 
which  no  permanent  building  can  be  erected  unless  a  solid  substruc- 
ture be  first  formed  by  driving  piles  (14-60  ft.  long)  into  the  firmer 
sand  beneath.  The  operations  of  the  builder  below  the  surface  of 
the  ground  are  frequently  as  costly  as  those  above  it.  In  the  year 
1822  the  great  corn-magazine,  originally  built  for  the  E.  India 
Company,  literally  sank  into  the  mud,  the  piles  having  been  inade- 
quate to  support  the  weight  of  the  3500  tons  of  grain  which  were 
stored  in  the  building  at  the  time.  The  city  has  also  been  fre- 
quently endangered  by  the  ravages  of  wood-worms.  The  cost  of 
the  works  connected  with  the  bridges,  canals,  and  dykes,  is  esti- 
mated at  several  thousand  florins  per  day.  The  safety  of  the  city 
depends  on  the  security  of  these  works,  any  defect  in  which  would 
expose  Amsterdam  to  the  risk  of  being  laid  many  feet  under  water. 

a.  The  Harbour  and  District  enclosed  by  the  Singel-Gracht. 
The  *Harbour  of  Amsterdam,  formed  by  the  Y,  has  been  sub- 
jected since  1672  to  a  most  thorough-going  process  of  extension  and 


298      Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Schreyerstoren. 

improvement,  undertaken ,  like  the  construction  of  the  North  Sea 
Canal  (p.  337)  to  maintain  the  commercial  importance  of  the  city. 
The  corporation,  the  railway  companies,  and  private  enterprize  are 
vying  with  each  other  in  the  introduction  of  the  newest  improve- 
ments and  devices  of  modern  science,  and  no  expense  has  been 
spared  in  endeavouring  to  make  this  one  of  the  finest  harbours  in 
Europe.  In  the  centre  lies  an  artificial  island,  with  the  new 
Central  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  2),  a  large  building  in  the 
early  Dutch  Renaissance  style  (p.  308)  designed  by  Cuypers,  and 
opened  in  1889.  To  the  E.  and  W.  of  this  are  two  other  arti- 
ficial islands,  the  Oostelyk  Station  Eiland  and  the  Westelyk  Sta- 
tion  Eiland.  The  De  Ruyter-Kade,  or  quay  running  along  the 
N.  side  of  these  islands,  is  the  starting-place  for  the  steamers 
to  England.  The  large  American  liners  and  East  Indiamen  (visitors 
admitted)  are  berthed  in  the  Westelyk  Dok  (PL  B,  C,  1)  and  the 
Oostelyk  Dok  (PI.  E,  2),  or  lie  at  the  Handelskade  (PI.  F,  G,  1), 
a  long  quay  stretching  towards  the  E.  The  Oostelyk  Dok  is  ad- 
joined by  the  Ryks-Marine-Dok  and  the  Ryks-  Werf  (PI.  F,  2),  or 
dock  and  wharf  of  the  royal  navy  (entrance  in  the  Groote  Katten- 
bnrger  Straat).  On  the  N.  side  of  the  Y  are  the  floating  docks  of 
the  Amsterdamsche  Droogdok  Maatschappy,  which  have  been  named 
Koninginnedok  (PI.  E,  1)  in  honour  of  Queen  Emma  (visitors 
admitted ;  steam-ferry,  see  p.  295). 

Along  the  S.  side  of  the  harbour  runs  the  Prins  Hendrik-Kade 
(PI.  D,  E,  2),  or  Prince  Henry's  Quay,  originally  called  the  Buiten- 
kant,  skirting  the  N.  side  of  the  town  and  flanked  with  numerous 
quaint  old  houses  and  magazines.  It  formerly  commanded  a  very 
picturesque  view  of  the  Y,  which  is,  however,  now  somewhat  marred 
by  the  new  docks  and  islands.  The  central  part  of  the  Prins  Hend- 
rik-Kade, projecting  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle,  used  to  be  the 
starting-place  of  the  Indiamen.  Hard  by  is  the  Schreyerstoren 
(PI.  52;  E,  2),  built  in  1482  and  now  containing  the  office  of 
the  harbour-master;  it  derives  its  name  ('criers'  tower')  from  the 
tears  shed  on  the  neighbouring  wharf  by  persons  parting  from  their 
relatives  and  friends.  The  Schreyerstoren  is  one  of  the  busiest 
stations  of  the  harbour-steamer  traffic  (p.  295). 

Farther  to  the  E.  on  the  Prins  Hendrik-Kade  (No.  131)  is 
Admiral  de  Ruyter's  House,  with  his  portrait  in  relief  on  the  gable. 
—  A  little  farther  back,  on  the  Oude  Schans,  is  the  old  Montalbaans 
Tower  (PI.  44 ;  E,  3).  —  At  the  end  of  the  quay  is  the  Kweekschool 
voor  de  Zeewaart  (PI.  41  ;  F,  2),  or  Seamen's  Institution,  in  which 
boys  are  educated  for  the  merchant-service  (adm. ,  see  p.  295).  The 
present  building  was  erected  in  1880,  in  the  Dutch  Renaissance 
style,  by  W.  and  J.  L.  Springer.  —  Beyond  the  Nieuwe  Heeren- 
gracht  is  the  Zeemanshuis  (PI.  F,  2),  or  sailors'  home,  to  which  visi 
tors  are  admitted  daily,  except  Sun.,  from  10  to  1.  Opposite  is  the 
Royal  Dockyard  (see  above)  and  behind  it  is  the  Entrep6t. 


i 


Exchange,  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.    299 

TheEntrepdt  Dok  (PI.  F,  G,  3),  to  the  N.  of  the  Zoological 
Garden,  constructed  in  1828,  and  measuring  765  yds.  in  length 
by  15  yds.  in  breadth,  forms  the  custom-house  harbour  and  bonded 
warehouses  of  Amsterdam.  Visitors  apply  at  the  office  at  the  en- 
trance (PI.  50),  where  they  are  provided  with  a  guide  (25-50  c). 
The  canal,  which  is  flanked  with  the  extensive  magazines,  is  23  ft. 
in  depth,  admitting  vessels  of  large  tonnage.  The  magazines  on 
the  N.  side  are  destined  exclusively  for  the  reception  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  Dutch  E.  Indian  possessions.  Vast  quantities  of  wine, 
corn,  sugar,  coffee,  rice,  and  indigo  are  stored  in  these  warehouses. 
—  Zoological  Garden  see  p.  306. 

From  the  Schreyerstoren  the  Geldersche  Kade  leads  S.  to  the 
NiEuwMARKT  (PI.  E ,  3) ,  with  the  Fish  Market  (PI.  58) ,  which 
presents  a  lively  scene  during  the  morning  hours.  Adjacent  is  the 
St.  Anthoniesicaag  (PL  53),  or  old  weigh-house,  long  used  by  dif- 
ferent guilds  and  now  occupied  by  the  Municipal  Fire  Brigade.  The 
old  unaltered  room  of  the  masons'  guild  is  interesting  to  specia- 
lists (fee). 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  this  point  is  the  Oude  Kerk  (PI.  D,  3),  a 
Gothic  edifice,  erected  about  the  year  1300,  and  measuring  98  yds. 
in  length  by  71  in  breath.  (Custodian  on  the  E.  side.  No.  76,  25  c.) 

The  IsTEKioR  is  supported  by  42  slender  round  pillars,  and  covered 
with  wooden  barrel-vaulting.  The  beautiful  stained  glass  in  the  windows 
of  the  Lady  Chapel,  dating  partly  from  1555,  represents  scenes  from  the 
history  of  the  Virgin  (Death,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Visitation,  and  Annun- 
ciation), by  Pieler  Aertsen  (-Lange  Pier').  To  the  right  by  the  entrance 
is  a  window  containing  the  armorial  bearings  of  all  the  burgomasters  of 
the  city  from  1578  to  1767;  in  the  second  window  the  recognition  of  the 
Netherlands  by  Philip  IV.  (p.  xxxii).  The  monument  of  Admiral  Van 
Heemskevck  bears  an  old  Dutch  inscription,  alluding  to  his  having  twice 
endeavoured  to  discover  a  more  direct  route  to  the  E.  Indies  by  the  Arctic 
Sea.  He  fell  in  1607  at  the  victorious  Battle  of  Gibraltar.  The  church 
also  contains  monuments  of  Admirals  Van  der  Hulst  (d.  1666) ,  Stoeers 
(d.  1673),  Van  dev  Zaan  (d.  1669),  and  Jansz  (d.  1633),  of  Marshal  Wivtz 
(d.  1676),  and  of  the  poetess  Lucretia   Wilhelmina  van  Winter  (d.  1705). 

From  the  Oude  Kerk  we  proceed  through  the  Warmoesstraat,  or 
across  the  filled-in  portion  of  the  Damrak  Canal  {Gedempt  Damrak  ; 
PI.  D,  3),  to  the  Dam  (PI.  D,  3),  a  large  square,  forming  the  focus 
of  the  business  life  of  the  city.  It  owes  its  name  to  its  position 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  old  embankment  with  which  the  foundation 
of  the  city  is  traditionally  connected.  The  Dam  is  surrounded  by  the 
Exchange,  the  Royal  Palace,  the  Nieuwe  Kerk,  and  several  private 
houses,  and  it  is  the  centre  from  which  the  principal  streets  diverge. 
It  is  also  the  central  point  of  the  tramway-system  (p.  294),  and 
adjacent,  in  the  Rokin,  is  a  landing-stage  of  the  small  harbour- 
steamers  (p.  295). 

On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  Dam  rises  the  Exchange  (Koopmans 
Beurs ,  PI.  D,  3),  a  handsome  structure  with  an  Ionic  colonnade, 
resting  on  a  foundation  of  3469  piles ,  completed  in  1845.  The 
hall  in  the  interior  is   covered  with  glass.    During  business-hours 


300      Route  i2.  AMSTERDAM.  Meuwe  Kerk. 

(admission,  see  p.  295)  most  of  the  principal  merchants  and  bro- 
kers, as  well  as  a  number  of  sea-faring  men,  will  be  seen  assembled 
here,  transacting  their  business  in  eager,  but  subdued  murmurs. 
During  one  week  in  August  and  September  the  Exchange  is  con- 
verted into  a  playground  for  boys,  whose  delight  on  these  occasions 
is  unbounded.  The  tradition  is,  that  boys  playing  here  were  once 
instrumental  in  discovering  a  conspiracy  of  the  Spaniards  against 
the  city  of  Amsterdam  in  1622,  and  that  this  privilege  was  accorded 
to  the  children  of  the  citizens  in  commemoration  of  the  incident, 
—  A  new  Exchange  is  to  be  erected  on  the  Gedempt  Damrak  (see 
above). 

At  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Dam  stands  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  (PI. 
D,  3),  a  late-Gothic  cruciform  structure,  erected  in  1408-70,  and 
restored  after  fires  and  outrages  in  1578  and  1645.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  important  churches  in  Holland.  Of  the  W.  towers,  which 
were  begun  in  1565,  one  was  left  uncompleted  after  the  fire  of  1645. 

The  Interior  (sacristan  at  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  Dam,  No.  6;  50  c.) 
is  covered  with  a  vaulted  wooden  ceiling,  and  contains  remnants  of  some 
fine  old  stained  glass,  representing  the  raising  of  the  siege  of  Leyden 
(p.  280).  The  pulpit,  by  Vinckenbrinck.  executed  in  1649,  is  beautifully 
carved.  The  nave  is  separated  from  the  choir  by  a  brazen  screen,  13  ft. 
in  height.  The  place  of  the  high-altar  is  occupied  by  the  monument,  l)y 
R.  Verhulst,  of  the  celebrated  Admiral  de  Ruyter\  who  died  in  167G  of 
wounds  received  at  the  victorious  Battle  of  Syracuse.  On  a  pillar  in  the 
choir  is  the  bust  of  Admiral  Wouter  Jienlinck,  who  fell  in  the  naval  battle 
near  the  Doggerbank  in  1781.  Another  monument  is  to  the  memory  of  Ad- 
miral Johann  von  Galen,  who  died  in  1653  at  Leghorn,  of  wounds  received 
in  the  naval  battle  near  that  town.  The  monument  of  Admiral  Van  Kins- 
bergen.  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  church,  by  F.  J.  Gabriel,  was 
erected  in  1819.  Opposite  to  it  is  the  monument  of  the  gallant  Van  Speyk 
(p.  173),  who  in  1831  'maintained  the  honour  of  his  country's  flag  at  the 
cost  of  his  life'.  A  pillar  in  the  S.  aisle,  adjoining  the  screen,  bears  an 
inscription  to  the  memory  of  Joost  van  den  Vondel  (d.  1679;  p.  334),  the 
Dutch  dramatist. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  is  the  *Royal  Palace  ('iTef  Paleis)^ 
begun  by  Jac.  van  Kampen  in  1648  as  a  towii-hall,  during  Burgo- 
master Tulp's  mayoralty,  and  substantially  finished  in  1655  at  a 
cost  of  eight  million  florins.  It  rests  on  a  foundation  of  13,659 
piles;  length  88  yds.,  width  69  yds.,  height  of  tower  (containing 
chimes)  187  ft.  It  was  presented  by  the  city  to  King  Louis  Napo- 
leon as  a  residence  in  1808.  The  massive  and  sober  building  was 
admirably  adapted  for  a  town-hall,  but  standing  in  the  open  market- 
place and  having  no  principal  entrance,  it  is  imsuitable  for  a  palace. 
The  gables  are  embellished  with  well  -  executed  reliefs  by  Artus 
Quellin  the  Elder  ^  celebrating  allegorically  the  glories  of  the  great 
commercial  city  and  'queen  of  the  seas'.  The  whole  arrangement 
and  fitting  up  of  the  interior  also  carry  us  back  to  the  days  when 
the  representatives  of  a  wealthy  and  powerful  municipality  con- 
gregated here.  All  the  apartments  are  richly  adorned  with  sculp- 
tures in  white  marble  by  Artus  Quellin  and  liis  assistants,  which 
produce  a  very  imposing  general  effect,   while  the  details  exhibit 


Palace.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.     301 

groat  vigour  of  execution  and  duly-restrained  pieturesqueness  of 
treatment  (Terracotta  model  in  the  Ryks  Museum,  p.  317). 

The  Entrance  (adm.,  see  p.  295)  is  at  the  back  of  the  building  in  the 
Voorburgwal.  We  ascend  the  staircase  to  the  first  floor  and  enter  the 
North  Gallery,  the  walls  of  which  are  lined  with  white  marble.  The 
gallery  is  now  divided  into  three  rooms,  the  first  of  which  contains  figures 
of  Jupiter  and  Apollo,  by  Artus  Quellin.  In  the  second  room,  above  the 
doors  leading  to  what  were  originally  the  secretary's  office  and  the  room 
for  marriages,  are  reliefs  emblematical  of  Discretion  and  Fidelity.  The 
third  room  is  adorned  with  statues  of  Saturn  and  Cybele,  by  A.  Quellin,  and 
contains  a  handsome  malachite  vase,  presented  by  the  Emperor  of  Russia. 

A  narrow  passage  now  leads  to  the  Royal  Apartments,  which  are 
sumptuously  fitted  up  with  heavy  silk  hangings  and  furniture  in  the 
style  of  the  First  Empire.  The  King's  Bed  Room  has  a  richly  painted 
ceiling  by  Cornelis  Holsteyn  and  a  handsome  chimney-piece,  above  which 
is  a  large  picture  by  N.  de  Jleli-Stocade,  representing  Joseph  and  his 
brethren.  —  The  Audience  Chamber,  originally  the  burgomaster's  room, 
contains  several  paintings  :  Self-sacrifice  C)f  Van  "Speyk  (p.  173),  by  Wappers 
and  Eeckhout;  Marcus  Curius  Dentatus  as  a  husbandman,  one  of  the  lar- 
gest pictures  by  Gov.  Flinch;  Fabricius  in  the  camp  of  Pyrrhus,  by  Ferd. 
Bol.  The  ceiling  is  also  by  G,  Holsteyn.  —  The  Aides-de-Camps'  Waiting 
■Room  contains  a  ceiling-painting  by  /.  G.  Bi'onchovst  and  an  elaborately 
executed  chimney-piece.  The  painting  above  the  latter,  by  Jan  Livens., 
represents  the  Consul  Suessa  ordering  his  father  to  dismount  to  do  him 
reverence.  —  The  old  court-room,  called  the  Vierschaar,  which  we 
inspect  from  a  gallery  with  a  ceiling  by  Bronchorst,  is  adorned  with  a 
fine  frieze  supported  by  Caryatides,  emblematical  of  Disgrace  and  Punish- 
ment, The  reliefs  of  the  frieze  represent  Wisdom  (the  Judgment  of  So- 
lomon), .Justice  (Brutus  ordering  his  son  to  execution),  and  Mercy  (Zaleu- 
cus  sufi"ering  one  of  his  eyes  to  be  put  out  for  his  son).  The  walls  are 
covered  with  white  marble. 

The  yellow  Tea  Room,  with  a  ceiling  painted  by  iV,  de  Helt-Stoc  de 
(1655)  and  an  elaborate  chimney-piece,  contains  a  Florentine  mosaic  cab- 
inet and  a  rich  service  of  Sevres.  —  The  Small  Dining  Room  contains 
Bronchorst's  masterpiece,  Jethro  counselling  Moses  to  appoint  judges  from 
among  the  people  to  share  his  labours  (Exodus  xviii).  Opposite  is  Solo- 
mon's Prayer,  by  Gov.  Flinck.  On  the  side  wall,  between  the  huge  chimney- 
pieces,  is  a  picture  by  Jac.  de  Witt,  Moses  choosing  the  70  elders.  The 
clever  deceptive  paintings  (imitations  of  sculptures)  above  the  doors  are 
by  the  same  master. 

The  Large  Dining  Room,  formerly  called  the  South  Gallery,  is  also 
richly  adorned  with  white  marble.  The  four  marble  statues,  Saturn 
and  Cybele,  Mars  and  Venus,  correspond  to  those  in  the  North  Gallery, 
and  like  them  are  by  Avt.  Quellin,  who  received  SOO  florins  for  each. 
Above  the  doors  which  formerly  led  to  the  chambers  for  cases  of  bank- 
ruptcy and  marine-insurance  are  two  fine  reliefs,  one  representing  the 
Fall  of  Icarus,  with  an  ornamental  moulding  of  rats  and  mice  gnawing 
empty  boxes  and  papers,  and  the  other  Arion  on  the  Dolphin. 

The  Queen's  Room  contains  an  excellent  painting  by  Jan  Livens, 
representing  Prudence,  Justice  and  Peace.  —  In  the  Throne  Room  the 
chief  decorations  are  the  handsome  chimney-piece  and  a  painting  by 
Ferd.  Bol  of  Moses  on  Mount  Sinai,  both  of  which,  however,  are  unfor- 
tunately concealed  by  the  canopy  over  the  throne. 

The  magnificent  Reception  Room  is  one  of  the  largest  halls  in  Eu- 
rope, with  a  roof  unsupported  by  columns,  being  100  ft.  in  height,  39  yds. 
long,  and  19  yds.  broad.  The  walls  here  also  are  entirely  lined  with 
white  Italian  marble.  In  the  centre  of  the  marble  floor  is  a  representa- 
tion of  the  firmament,  inlaid  in  copper,  which,  however,  is  covered  by 
a  thick  carpet  manufactured  in  Deventer  (p.  353)  and  is  not  shown  to  the 
public.  Above  the  entrance  to  the  throne-room  is  a  representation  of 
Justice,  with  Ignorance  and  Quarrelsomeness  at  her  feet;  to  the  left  is 
Punishment,   to  the   right  a  Skeleton  (now  concealed),   and  above,  Atlas 


302   Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Zeemanslioop. 

with  the  globe.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  hall,  at  the  top  of  the  chief  stair- 
case, is  an  allegorical  figure  of  the  town  of  Amsterdam,  surrounded  hy 
Strength,  Wisdom,  and  Plenty.  The  four  arches  in  the  corners  were 
formerly  connected  with  the  old  North  and  South  Galleries,  by  means 
of  short  marble  arcades,  of  which,  however,  three  are  now  closed.  On 
the  walls  of  this  and  the  throne-room  are  flags  and  trophies  taken  from 
the  Spaniards  and  Indians;  and  the  flag  used  by  General  Chasse  at  the 
siege  ©f  Antwerp  is  also  preserved  here. 

The  Tower  of  the  palace,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  with 
a  gilded  ship,  commands  an  extensive  *View  of  the  city  and  its 
environs,  including  Haarlem,  Utrecht,  Alkmaar,  and  the  Zuiderzee. 

The  attendant  who  conducts  visitors  through  the  palace  leaves  them 
at  the  foot  of  the  staircase  leading  to  the  tower  (closed  on  Sun.)-  We  ascend 
to  the  lirst  landing  and  follow  a  somewhat  dark  passage  to  a  second  stair- 
case, leading  to  the  garret.  Crossing  this  we  ascend  a  flight  of  wooden 
steps  and  reach  a  closed  door  on  which  we  knock  loudly  to  summon  the 
keeper  of  the  tower  (small  fee). 

In  front  of  the  Palace  is  a  lofty  Monument,  erected  in  1856  to 
commemorate  the  fidelity  of  the  Dutch  during  the  Belgian  Revot- 
ution  in  1830-31,  and  known  as  Het  Metalen  Kruis,  after  the  war- 
medals  struck  at  the  time.  The  sandstone  statue  of  Concordia,  on 
a  hexagonal  base  with  a  lofty  square  pedestal,  is  by  L.  Royer. 

At  the  corner  of  the  Dam  and  the  Kalverstraat  is  situated  the 
building  of  the  Zeemanshoop  ('seaman's  hope' ,  PL  59;  D,  3),  a 
society  consisting  of  upwards  of  600  members,  many  of  whom  belong 
to  the  best  families  of  Amsterdam.  Those  who  are  captains  recog- 
nise each  other's  vessels  at  sea  by  the  flag  of  the  society.  As 
every  member's  flag  bears  his  number  on  the  lists  of  the  society, 
the  name  and  destination  of  the  vessel,  although  beyond  hailing  dis- 
tance ,  are  easily  ascertained ,  and  a  report  of  the  meeting  is  then 
sent  home.  A  fund  for  the  widows  and  orphans  of  seamen  is  also 
connected  with  the  society.  Visitors  may  obtain  access  to  the 
building  by  applying  to  the  custodian  in  the  forenoon  (fee  50  c). 

The  Kalvbrstbaat  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  which  leads  southwards  from 
the  Dam,  is  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  and  contains 
numerous  fine  shops,  restaurants,  and  cafes.  After  9  p.m.  it  becomes 
the  scene  of  a  kind  of  Corso  or  promenade,  from  which,  however, 
carriages  are  excluded.  About  halfway  along  the  street,  at  the 
corner  of  the  St.  Lucien  Gasse  ,  is  the  Municipal  Orphanage  (PI. 
4;  D.  4),  entered  from  the  lane  (adm.  Mon.  to  Frid.  9-11.30  and 
2-4 ;  fee).  The  regents'  room  contains  good  paintings  by  J.  Backer, 
Jur.  Ovens,  A.  de  Tries,  etc. ;  the  court,  with  its  open  colonnade 
and  frieze  in  relief  is  also  interesting.  —  Farther  on,  on  the  same 
side,  is'the  Begynenhof  (?\.  3),  of  the  17th  cent.  (comp.  p.  333). 
—  The  Reguliers-Br&e-Straat^  a  continuation  of  the  Kalverstraat, 
leads  to  the  Rembrandtsplein  (p.  303). 

Since  the  conversion  of  the  original  town-house  into  the  palace, 
the  old  Court  of  Admiralty,  in  the  Oudezyds-Voorburgwal ,  has 
served  as  a  Stadhuis  (PL  D,  3).  Most  of  the  paintings  and  other 
works  of  art  formerly  here  have  been  transferred  to  the  Ryks  Mu- 


University.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.     303 

seum  (p.  308);  the  council  hall,  however,  and  the  hurgomaster's 
room  contain  some  noteworthy  paintings  by  F.  Bol,  J.  Backer, 
G.  Flinck,  etc.,  which  may  be  viewed  before  or  after  oftice-hours. 

The  municipal  University,  or  Athenaeum  Illustre  (PI.  57; 
E,  4),  occupies  an  old  Gasthuis  (p.  xxviii),  and  contains  some  excel- 
lent old  portraits  of  eminent  scholars.  A  new  Aula  or  hall  is  being 
built ;  and  new  buildings  for  the  physical,  chemical,  and  physio- 
logical laboratories  have  been  begun.  There  are  about  50  professors 
and  900  students.  The  Botanic  Garden  (p.  307)  belongs  to  this 
institution. 

The  Universal/  Library,  in  an  adjacent  building  which  was  restored 
in  188i,  contains  about  11)0,000  printed  volumes,  including  the  Rosenthal 
Collection  of  8000  books  on  Indian  literature.  It  also  possesses  numerous 
valuable  MSS.  (Csesar's  Bellum  Gallicum  of  the  10th  cent.  •,  Syriac  New 
Testament ;  a  Sachsenspiegel  of  the  14th  cent. ;  letters  of  Dutch  scholars). 
Admission,  see  p.  295. 

The  Arti  et  Amicitise  society  of  painters  in  the  Rokin  (PL 
D,  4)  possesses  a  Historical  Gallery  of  200  pictures  and  scenes 
from  the  history  of  the  Netherlands,  comprising  many  works  of 
great  merit.  Other  exhibitions  of  art  also  take  place  here,  sometimes 
affording  an  admirable  opportunity  of  inspecting  valuable  old  paint- 
ings and  other  works  of  art  lent  by  private  individuals.  Admission 
25-50  c,  —  In  the  vicinity  is  the  Lees-Museum  (Reading  Room, 
PI.  42),  with  newspapers.    Introduction  by  a  member  necessary. 

An  old  city-tower  in  the  adjoining  Sophiaplein  (PI.  D,  E,  4) 
contains  the  collection  of  the  Royal  Antiquarian  Society.  Art- 
industrial  and  similar  exhibitions  frequently  take  place  here.  — 
To  the  N.,  on  the  Kloveniersburgwal  (Pl.E,  3),  the  Royal  Academy 
of  Science  finds  accommodation  in  the  'Trippenhuis',  which  for- 
merly contained  some  of  the  paintings  now  in  the  Ryks  Museum 
(p.  308). 

In  the  Rbmbrandtsplbin  (PL  E,  4)  rises  the  Statue  of  Rem- 
brandt^ in  bronze,  designed  by  Royer,  and  erected  in  1852.  Rem- 
brandt's house ,  see  p.  307.  —  From  the  Rembrandtsplein  the 
Binnen-Amstel  leads  N.E.  to  the  Botanic  and  Zoological  Gardens 
(see  p.  306).   To  the  W.  is  the  Kalverstraat  (p.  302). 

The  Rembrandtsplein  is  adjoined  on  the  S.  by  the  Thorbecke- 
PLEiN,  which  is  embellished  with  a  statue,  by  Leenhofi',  of  Joh. 
Rud.  Thorbecke  (d.  1872  ;  PL  E,  4),  long  the  leader  of  the  liberal 
party  in  Holland,  and  three  times  in  office  as  a  minister. 

In  the  neighbourhood  is  the  House  of  Herr  J.  P.  Six,  Heeren- 
gracht  511,  N.  side,  near  the  corner  of  the  Yyzelstraat,  containing 
a  celebrated  *Gallery  of  Paintings,  most  of  which  passed  directly 
from  the  easel  into  the  possession  of  the  Six  family.  Part  of  the 
collection  formerly  in  this  gallery  came  by  inheritance  into  the 
hands  of  the  Van  Loon  family  and  was  sold  at  Paris  in  1877  for 
the  sum  of  1,500,000  florins.  The  founder  of  the  whole  collection 
was  Jan  Six  (1618-1702;  Burgomaster  of  Amsterdam  from  1691 


304     Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Six  Collection. 

till  his  death),  long  the  friend  and  patron  of  Rembrandt,  Jan  Li- 
vens, and  Gov.  Fliiick.  Amateurs  are  kindly  admitted  to  the  Six 
collection  on  sending  in  their  cards.  Visitors  give  a  small  fee  or  a 
contribution  for  a  charitable  purpose  (see  p.  xxvi). 

The  names  of  a  few  of  the  more  important  works  are  given  here- 
Ante-Room  :  P.  Potter,  Equestrian  portrait  (1653)  ;  Aart  van  der  iVeer,  Moon- 
light scene.  —  Dining  Room:  Terhurg,  Girl  writing-,  L.  Bakhrtysen^  Two 
sea-pieces;  Nic.  Elias ,  Portrait  of  Professor  !Nic.  Tulp  (p.  266);  Oov. 
Flinck,  Isaac  blessing  Jacob;  Two  '-Miniatures  of  1655,  perhaps  by  Rem- 
brandt (?),  representing  Six,  and  his  wife  Margaretha  Tulp  (aged  21),  daugh- 
ter of  the  professor,  in  the  year  of  their  marriage. 

Principal  Room.  To  the  right:  '"Retubrandt,  Portrait  of  Burgomaster 
Six,  the  head  completed,  the  rest  broadly  sketched  in  a  masterly  manner 
(1656);  opposite.  "Rembrandt.  Anna  Six,  mother  of  the  burgomaster,  at 
the  age  of  57  (1641).  —  Adjoining  the  first  picture:  *Jan  Sleen,  Girl 
eating  oysters;  A.  van  de  Velde,  View  of  Scheveningen ;  Berck-Heyde,  The 
Heerengracht  in  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent.;  Troost,  Two  conversation- 
pieces;  "Terhurg,  Concert;  Potter,  Cattle,  with  a  milk-girl  washing  a  pail 
in  the  foreground  (1047);  *G.  Dou ,  Girl  at  a  window  with  a  basket  of 
fruit  (1657);  Frans  Hals,  Portrait  of  a  man;  Nic.  Maes,  A  child  of  the 
Six  family;  ''Rembrandt,  The  physician  Ephraim  Bonus,  a  Portuguese 
Jew,  painted  in  1647  (8  in.  in  height);  Wouverman  and  Ruysdael,  The 
ford;  Wouverman,  M&Tket. 

Upper  Floor  (small  room  lighted  from  the  roof).  To  the  right  of 
the  door:  P.  de  Hooch,  Interior:  Wouverman,  Stable;  Weenix ,  Moor 
ollering  a  lady  a  parrot  (Othello?);  iV.  Maes,  The  listener;  *(?.  Dou, 
Dentist;  '^Cuyp.  Dutch  fleet;  above,  Mierevelt,  Three  portraits;  Both, 
Fisherman.  —  On  the  back-wall:  Ruysdael,  Winter-landscape;  *.4.  Cuyp, 
Moonlight  on  the  sea;  A.  van  de  Velde ,  Brown  cow;  "Metsu,  Woman 
selling  herrings;  Berchem,  Forest-scene;  Adr.  van  Ostade,  Fish-seller 
(1672) ;  'Hobbema,  Forest-scene ;  A.  de  Lorme,  Groote  Kerk  at  Rotterdam ; 
A.  van  Ostade,  Interior  of  a  peasant's  house ;  A.  van  de  Velde,  Cow  drink- 
ing. —  Third  wall :  Ruysdael,  Swedish  landscape ;  'Jan  van  der  Meer  van 
Delft,  Street  in  Delft,  Peasant  woman  with  a  milk-pail;  Hondecoeter,  Dead 
turkey.  Goose  and  hare;  S.  Koninck,  Scholar  working  by  candle-light; 
Everdingen,  Winter-scene;  Ruysdael,  Norwegian  scene;  "Jan  Steen,  Wed- 
ding-feast (1653);  0.  van  den  Eeckhout,  The  woman  taken  in  adultery;  Dirk 
Hals,  Man  playing  the  guitar;  Ochterveldl,  Oyster-party. 

The  *Fodor  Museum  (PL  E,  5),  Keizersgracht  609,  was  found- 
ed by  a  wealthy  merchant  of  that  name  (d.  1860).  It  consists 
of  a  valuable  collection  of  paintings  by  ancient  and  modern  mas- 
ters, preserved  in  a  building  erected  and  maintained  with  funds 
left  by  the  donor  for  the  purpose.  For  the  study  of  the  French 
masters  of  the  19th  century,  this  gallery  is  second  to  none  save 
the  Hertford  Collection  in  London.  Meissonier,  Decamps,  Ary 
Scheffer,  and  others  are  here  represented  by  admirable  works,  while 
the  gallery  also  contains  numerous  fine  conversation -pieces  of 
the  modern  Belgian  and  Dutch  schools.  Admission,  see  p.  295; 
visitors  ring  at  the  door  to  the  left  (catalogue  25  c.  ;  the  pictures 
bear  the  names  of  the  artists"). 

Room  I.  To  the  right:  57.  A.  de  Lelie,  Girl  cleaning  a  kettle; 
54.  H.  Koekkoek,  Fishing-boats  on  the  beach  ;  25.  L.  Dubourcq, 
Scene  in  the  Campagna ;  *34.  Ch.  Immerzeel,  Landscape  with  cattle ; 
135.  E.  Fichel  (pupil  of  Delaroche),  Chess-players  (1858);  *156. 
Lindlar  (pupil  of  Schirmer) ,  Lake  of  Lucerne ;    78.  W.  Roelofs, 


Fodor  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.    305 

Dutch  landscape;  71.  Van  Oos ,  Still-life;  50,  55.  H.  Koekkoek, 
Sea-pieces ;  138.    Gudin,  Fishing-village  on  the  French  coast. 

liooMlI.  To  the  right:  *V2S.  Decamps,  Horses  at  pasture;  110. 
Verlat,  Dog  and  parrot;  *i24.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Team  of  horses; 
*147.  Meissonier,  The  death-bed;  158.  Pettenkoven,  Duel;  108. 
Verboeckhoven,  Sheep ;  140.  Gudin,  Spanish  coast ;  114.  Verveer, 
Fair  at  Scheveningen ;  142.  GuUlemin,  Visiting  the  poor;  15. 
J.  Bosboom,  Administration  of  the  Sacrament  in  the  Groote  Kerk  at 
Utrecht;  *93.  Schelfhout,  Stranded  ship  at  Scheveningen;  96. 
Scholten,  Dead  horse ;  *129.  Decamps,  Turkish  school;  *152.  A. 
Achenbach,  WixteT-miU.;  '7Q.  Roelofs ,  Landscape;  i'll.  Decamps. 
The  lost  track;  73.  Pieneman,  Portrait  of  the  founder  of  the  mu- 
seum; 131.  Decamps,  Flock  of  sheep  in  stormy  weather  (bought  in 
1860  for  11,215  fl.);  *146.  P.  Marilhat,  Caravan  crossing  a  river  ; 
*81.  AryScheffer,  Christus  Consolator  (Luke,  iv.  18),  a  large  picture 
well-knovrn  from  engravings  and  photographs  (p.  377 ;  bought  in 
1853  for  24,800n.l;  122.  J.  Beaume,  Rescue  by  the  monks  of 
St.  Bernard ;  94.  Schelfhout,  Winter-landscape ;  38.  N.  de  Keyset, 
Francis  I.  of  France  in  the  house  of  Benvenuto  Cellini;  126.  Rosa 
Bonheur,  Sheep  ;  135.  A.  Calame,  Landscape;  121.  WUlems,  Studio; 
95.  «Sc/ief/7toMf,  Landscape;  *130.  Decamps,  Town  in  Asia  Minor ; 
116.  Waldorp,  Drawbridge  over  a  canal;  27.  Gallait,  Woman  with 
two  children;  137.  FLeury,  Palissy  the  Potter  in  his  workshop  ;  *58. 
Leys,  Flemish  tavern;  103.  C.  Springer,  Market  of  Haarlem;  133. 
Diaz  de  la  Pena,  Nymph  with  Cupids;  80.  Ary  Scheffer,  Greeks  of 
the  War  of  Liberation. 

Room  III.  To  the  right :  35.  Karssen,  View  of  a  town;  39. 
Kobell,  Landscape ;  *157.  Peltenkoven,  Gipsy.  This  room  also  con- 
tains drawings  and  water-colours. 

Room  IV.  contains  drawings  (849.  Head  of  a  lady  by  Watteau) 
and  water-colour  copies  of  celebrated  pictures  of  the  Old  Dutch 
School.  The  drawings  by  earlier  masters  (Dou ,  A.  van  Ostade, 
A.  van  de  Velde ,  Van  Dyck,  etc."),  the  remainder  of  the  modern 
works,  and  the  'Atlas  van  Amsterdam',  bequeathed  to  the  city 
by  M.  Splitgerber  in  1879,  are  shown  on  Thur.  and  Sat.  on  appli- 
cation to  the  'Museum  Bewaarder'  (fee  1  fl.,  devoted  to  charity). 

The  Church  op  thb  Remokstkants  (PI.  23 ;  C,  2) ,  near  the 
N.  end  of  the  Keizersgracht,  contains  valuable  portraits  of  preachers, 
by  Th.  de  Keyser,  J.  Backer,  etc.  —  No.  123  in  the  same  street  is 
the  largely  attended  Public  Commercial  School. 

On  the  S.  and  E.  sides  of  Amsterdam,  on  both  sides  of  the 
.^ingel-Gracht  (comp.  PL  and  p.  297),  which  until  about  20  years 
ago,  under  the  name  Buiten-Singel,  formed  the  outer  limit  of  the 
city,  there  have  arisen  entirely  new  quarters,  with  wide  streets  often 
planted  with  trees,  ornamental  squares,  and  numerous  handsome 
buildings.  —  In  the  Leidscht:  Pletn  (PL  D,  5)  are  the  ruins  of 

Baedkkek's  Belgium  and  Holland.    lUth  Edit.  20 


306     Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.         Zoological  Garden. 

the  Stads-Schouwburg  (p.  294);  to  the  S.E.  is  the  Prison,  and  far- 
ther on,  beyond  the  Singel-Graoht,  rises  the  Kyks  Museum  (p.  308). 

In  the  Frederiksplein  (PI.  F,  5)  is  the  Palais  voor  Volksvlyt, 
a  glass  and  iron  structure  by  Cornells  Outshoorn,  erected  as  a  hall 
for  exhibitions,  concerts  and  theatrical  performances  (sec  p.  294). 
The  elliptical  dome,  190  ft.  in  height,  is  surmounted  by  a  statue 
of  Victory,  23  ft.  high,  by  the  Belgian  sculptor  Jaquet.  The  large 
hall  can  contain  12,000  visitors.  Behind  the  Paleis  is  a  large 
garden,  containing  a  covered  *Gallery,  with  shops,  etc.,  much  fre- 
quented by  promenaders.  —  The  Hooge  Sluts  (PI.  F,  5),  command- 
ing pretty  views  on  both  sides,  leads  hence  to  the  Rhenish  Station 
(p.  293). 

Tl\e  Sarpliatistraat  leads  to  the  N.  from  the  front  of  the  station, 
past  the  large  Hospital  (PI.  G,  4)  and  tlie  Cavalry  Barracks,  to  the 
Mulder  Poort  (PI.  G,  U,  3),  the  only  one  of  the  ancient  city-gates 
still  existing.  Outside  of  it  is  situated  the  extensive  Eastern  Ce- 
metery of  Amsterdam. 

Crossing  the  bridge  to  the  W.  of  the  gate  we  reach  the  Middel- 
Laan,  Avhich  for  nearly  its  entire  length  skirts  the  S.  side  of  the 
Zoological  Garden.  The  large  building  on  the  S.  of  the  street  is 
the  Hospice  of  St.  James  (PL  G,  3),  an  asylum  for  aged  poor  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  faith.  — Adjacent  is  a  Panorama,  with  a  paint- 
ing of  Schcveningen  by  Mesdag. 

The  *Zoological  Garden  (PI.  G,  3;  admission,  see  p.  295), 
popularly  called  the  ^Artis'  (being  the  property  of  the  society  ^Natura 
Artis  Magistra'^,  near  the  Botanic  Garden,  laid  out  in  183S  and 
several  times  enlarged,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe,  and  little 
inferior  to  that  of  London.  It  is  28  acres  in  extent.  Even  a  cursory 
visit  to  the  chief  objects  of  interest  takes  3  hrs.  ;  a  small  guide-plan 
is  presented  gratis  to  visitors  at  the  entrance. 

The  Entrance  is  in  the  Kerk  Laan  (Tl.  F,  G,  3).  To  the  left  are 
the  camels,  llamas,  and  stags;  behind  are  the  singing-birds,  the  parrot- 
gallery,  and  the  Reptile  Jloicse,  -which  ccmtains  large  serpents  and  other 
reptiles.  The  arrangements  for  fish-breeding,  also  in  this  part  of  the  garden, 
are  interesting  (in  winter  and  spring  only).  Many  thousands  of  salmon 
and  trout  are  bred  here  and  annually  set  free  in  the  Dutch  rivers.  Close 
by  is  the  Monkey  House.  —  Beyond  the  ponds,  which  are  covered  with 
sja-fowl,  are  different  varieties  of  cattle  and  sheep,  and  on  the  left,  the 
large  Carnivora  House,  adjoined  by  that  of  the  Elephants.  —  Proceeding 
hence  past  the  Antelope  ,  Giraffe  ,  and  Zebra  House ,  we  reach  the  Eagle 
and  Vulture  House  ,  the  Buffalo  Shed,  and  the  Hippopolamns  House.  In 
the  N.E.  angle  is  a  large  grotto  with  a  basin  of  water,  fitted  up  in  1877 
for  the  reception  of  a  pair  of  sea-lions.  The  large  building  to  the  right 
of  the  entrance  is  the  Society  House,  with  a  large  hall  (Restaurant  in 
summer;  D.,  2  fl.  or  upwards,  from  4  to  7  p.m,  a  la  carte  from  12;  not 
open  before  10  a.m.).  The  older  building  farther  on  in  the  same  part  of 
the  gardens  contains  a  collection  of  stuffed  animals  and  skeletons  in  the 
upper  story.  Then  the  new  Ethnological  Museum.,  containing  Chinese, 
Japanese,  and  Indian  curiosities,  and  a  valuable  library.  Also  a  collection 
of  sea-weeds  and  corals.  A  fine  Aquarium  was  added  in  1881  (adm.  for 
visitors  to  the  Zoological  Garden  25,  others  60  c). 

Hence  the  Fransche  Laan  leads  to  theW.  to  the  Parfc  (PI.  F,  3), 


Jewish  Quarter.  AMSTERDAM.  4f?.  Route.     307 

which  belongs  to  a  private  society,  and  the  theatre  called  the 
Park-Schouxoburg  (^p.  294).  This  quarter  of  the  city  has  been  built 
within  the  last  twenty  years,  on  a  site  that  was  once  covered  with 
pleasure-grounds  and  country-houses,  and  known  as  the  'Plautage'. 
—  The  iron  gate  opposite  the  S.  side  of  the  Park  forms  the  entrance 
to  the*BotanicGarden  [PL  F,3;  admission,  see  p.  295),  commonly 
known  as  the  'Hortus',  and  interesting  on  account  of  its  numerous 
species  of  palms  audits  VictoriaRegia  house,  which  attracts  numerous 
visitors  on  summer-evenings,  when  that  plant  is  in  flower. 

In  returning  from  the  E.  quarters  of  the  town  towards  the  Dam 
we  may  proceed  through  the  Jewish  Quarter  (PI.  F,  E,  3),  the 
ill-conditioned  character  of  which  presents  a  marked  contrast  to  the 
Dutch  cleanliness  of  the  rest  of  the  city.  The  most  interesting  times 
for  a  visit  are  Frid.  evening,  1  hr.  before  thebeginningof  the  Sabbath, 
Sat.eveniiigaftersunset,and  Sun.  after  10  a.m.  Brokers' shops  and  ma- 
rine stores  abound  in  thesesqualid  purlieus,  where  faces  and  costumes 
of  an  Oriental  type  will  frequently  be  observed.  The  Jews  form  one- 
tenth  of  the  population  of  Amsterdam,  and  possess  ten  Synagogues. 
The  largest  is  that  of  the  Portuguese  Jews  (PI.  56;  F,  3)  in  the 
Muiderstraat,  erected  in  1670,  and  said  to  be  an  imitation  of  the 
Temple  of  Solomon ;  it  possesses  a  large  number  of  costly  vessels. 
After  the  expulsion  of  the  Portuguese  Jews  from  their  native  country 
in  the  first  half  of  the  17th  cent.  ,  they  sought  an  asylum  at  Am- 
sterdam, where  complete  religious  toleration  was  accorded  to  them. 
Many  German  Jews  also ,  in  order  to  escape  from  the  persecutions 
to  which  they  were  subjected  in  their  own  country,  flocked  to  Amster- 
dam, which  they  regarded  almost  as  a  second  Jerusalem.  Baruch 
Spinoza,  the  father  of  modern  philosophy,  born  at  Amsterdam  in 
1632,  was  the  son  of  a  Portuguese  Jew.  The  wealth  of  the  Jewish 
community  still  renders  it  one  of  the  most  influential  in  the  city.  In 
the  numerous  dissensions  between  the  States  General  and  the  Stadt- 
holders,  the  Jews  always  took  the  part  of  the  latter. 

In  the  Jodenbreestraat  (PI.  E,  3)  ,  a  simple  memorial-tablet 
marks  the  house  (No.  4;  the  second  house  from  the  bridge)  in  which 
Rembrandt  resided  from  1640  to  1656. 

Amsterdam  has  from  an  early  period  been  famous  for  Diamond  Po- 
LisuiXG,  an  art  unknown  in  Europe  before  the  15th  cent.,  and  h)ng  confined 
to  the  Portuguese  Jews  of  Amsterdam  and  Antwerp,  to  whom  most  of  the 
mills  at  Amsterdam  still  belong.  The  most  important  are  situated  in  tlie 
Zwanenburgerstraat  (PI.  6 ;  E,  4)  and  theRoeterseiland  (on  the  Achter  Graacht, 
in  the  E.  part  of  the  town;  PI.  65  E,4).  Visitors  are  generally  admitted  by  M. 
Koster,  Zwanenburgerstraat  12,  daily,  except  Sat.  and  Sun.,  from  9  to  3, 
and  by  other  houses  also  (fee  50  c).  The  machinery  of  the  mills  is  usually 
driven  by  steam,  and  the  diamond  to  be  polished  is  pressed  by  the  work- 
man against  a  rapidly-revolving  iron  disc,  moistened  with  a  mixture  of 
oil  and  diamond  dust.  The  latter  is  indispensable,  as  it  has  been  found 
that  no  impression  can  be  made  on  diamonds  by  any  other  substance. 
In  a  similar  manner  the  stones  are  cut  or  sawn  through  by  means  of 
wires  covered  with  diamond  dust. 


20* 


308      Route  4'}.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryks  Museum. 

b.    The  **RykB  Museum. 

The  Ryks  Museum  (  Fl.L),  E,  6),  an  imposing  building  covering 
nearly  3  acres  of  ground,  erected  in  1877-85  from  the  plans  of  F.J. 
H.  Cuypers  in  the  so-called  Early  Dutch  Renaissance  style,  retain- 
ing numerous  Gothic  and  Romanesque  features.  The  principal  fa- 
cade is  turned  towards  the  Stadhouderskade.  The  sculptures  with 
which  it  is  adorned  are  by  Frans  Vermeylen  of  Louvain  and  Bart 
van  Hove  of  Amsterdam.  The  exterior  is  also  ornamented  with 
mosaic  decorations  in  painted  and  glazed  tiles,  designed  by  G.  Sturm 
and.  representing  the  principal  figures  and  events  in  the  history  of 
Netherlandish  art.  The  museum  is  surrounded  with  pleasure 
grounds  and  enclosed  by  a  tasteful  wrought-irou  railing. 

The  central  gable  of  tlie  Principal  Facade  is  surmounted  by  a  statue 
of  Victory  by  Vermeylen.  The  alto-relief  above  the  archway,  23  ft.  in 
length,  contains  an  iJlegorical  figure  of  the  Netherlands,  surrounded  by 
Wisdom,  Justice,  Beauty,  and  Truth,  and  receiving  the  homage  of  the 
Dutch  artists.  To  the  right  of  the  central  group  are  the  architects  Egin- 
hard  (p.  371),  Jan  ten  Doem  (p.  3U3),  and  Keldermans  (p.  134)  and  to  the 
left,  the  sculptor  Klaas  Sluter  and  the  early  painters  Dirk  Bouts  and 
Lucas  van  Leyden;  to  the  extreme  right  are  Rembrandt  and  his  con- 
temporaries, to  the  extreme  left  the  more  modern  masters.  The  reliefs 
at  the  sides  are  allegorical  representations  of  the  arts  of  Painting  and 
Drawing  (to  the  right),  and  Architecture  and  Sculpture  (to  the  left).  The 
two  niches  between  these  reliefs  are  occupied  by  allegorical  statues  of 
Art  and  History.  The  reliefs  above  the  windows  refer  to  the  founding 
of  the  new  Museum.  Above,  on  the  pediment,  are  allegorical  statues 
representing  Inspiration  and  Industry.  Below,  at  the  entrances  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  archway,  are  statues  representing  Architecture  and 
Sculpture,  Painting  and  Engraving. 

The  figures  in  coloured  tiles  symbolize  the  Dutch  towns  and  provinces, 
with  Amsterdam,  the  Hague,  Haarlem,  Leyden,  Delft,  Dordrecht,  and 
Rotterdam  in  the  centre,  as  the  most  celebrated  nurseries  of  art. 

The  vaulted  and  colonnaded  passage  is  at  present  temporarily  closed. 
The  South  Facade  of  the  Museum  is  to  be  elaborately  ornamented  with 
encaustic  painting.  Above  the  archway  is  a  representation  of  Rembrandt,  sur- 
rounded by  his  pupils,  painting  the  'Staalmeesters''(p.326);  to  the  right,  Bishop 
David  de  Bourgogne  visited  at  Utrecht  by  the  brothers  Van  Eyck ;  to  the 
left,  the  Reception  of  Albrecht  Diirer  at  S'Hertogenbosch.  The  central 
gable  contains  figures  of  the  most  illustrious  patrons  of  Dutch  art  from  Char- 
lemagne (p.  871)  to  King  William  I.  —  On  the  wings  are  represented  the 
Founding  of  the  Palace  at  the  Hague  by  the  German  king.  Count  William 
of  Holland;  the  Founding  of  the  Guild  of  St.  Luke  at  Amsterdam;  the 
Founding  of  the  Carpet  Manufactory  at  Middelburg ;  the  Presentation  of 
the  church  windows  at  Gouda  by  the  Dutch  towns  ;  Amalia  von  Solms 
preparing  for  the  decoration  of  the  Huis  ten  Bosch  at  the  Hague;  and 
the  Founding  of  the  first  public  museum  by  the  Batavian  Republic. 

The  Eastebn  Facade  is  divided  into  four  fields,  to  contain  represent- 
ations of  the  Building  of  the  Church  of  St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht;  the 
Founding  of  the  Valkhof  at  Nymcgen  by  Charlemagne;  the  Founding  of 
Utrecht  Cathedral;  and  the  Building  of  the  Church  of  St.  John  at  S'Her- 
togenbosch. 

On  the  Western  Faqade,  likewise  in  four  fields,  is  depicted  a  pro- 
cession of  persons  celebrated  in  the  history  of  Dutch  art. 

The  arrangement  of  the  interior  of  the  Museum  will  be  easily 
understood  from  the  accompanying  plans  of  the  ground-floor  and 
first  floor.  The  collections  include  not  only  the  paintings,  drawings, 
and  engravings  formerly  in  the  royal  museum  at  the  Trlppenhuis, 


R7jksMu.^eum.  AMSTERDAM.  4^.   Route.      309 

and  in  the  Museum  van  der  Hoop,  but  also  various  pictures  and 
other  -works  of  art  collected  from  the  Stndhuis,  the  Huiszittenhuis, 
and  elsewhere,  and  the  Art-Industrial  Collections  of  the  old  Dutch 
Museum  at  the  Hague  and  of  the  Antiquarian  Society  at  Amsterdam. 
The  general  director  of  the  new  Museum  is  Mr.  Fr.  D.  0.  Obreen, 
whose  dwelling  and  office  are  in  the  house  standing  at  the  back  of 
the  museum,  and  built  in  the  same  style.  The  collections  are  open 
to  the  public  daily,  except  Men.  (see  p.  295). 

Ground  Floor. 

The  E.  half  of  the  ground-floor  contains  the  Dutch  Museum 
( Nederlandsch  Museum  voor  geschiedenis  en  kunst ;  catalogue  Ifl., 
by  the  director,  Mr.  Bav.  van  der  Kellen),  which  presents  an  inter- 
esting survey  of  industrial  art  in  the  Netherlands  from  the  time 
of  Charlemagne  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  The  E. 
entrance,  to  the  left  of  the  archway,  opens  on  a  Hall,  adorned  with 
a  group  of  David  and  Goliath,  a  wooden  statue  of  the  Stadtholder 
WiUiara  II,,  a  bronze  statuette  of  king  William  II.  by  TT.  Geefs, 
models,  etc.  To  the  right  is  the  staircase  to  the  picture-gallery 
(p.  318) ;  to  the  left,  the  entrance  to  theDomestic  Interiors  (p.  312). 
We,  however,  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  and  descend  a  flight 
of  steps  to  the  large  — 

East  Court,  covered  with  a  glass  roof  and  containing  the  larger 
objects  of  the  Military,  Naval,  and  Colonial  Collections.  On  the  walls 
of  the  staircase  are  trophies  of  weapons  and  captured  banners.  In 
the  court,  to  the  left,  is  a  room  with  a  collection  of  weapons  belong- 
ing to  the  town  of  Amsterdam.  To  the  right  are  ten  cabinets  with 
specimens  of  Dutch  National  Costumes:  1.  Island  of  Marken;  2.  Port, 
Breda;  3.  Zuid-Beveland;  4.  Yollendam  ;  5.  Scheveningen  ;  6.  Nun- 
speet;  7.  Huizen,  Zandvoort;  8.  Leeuwarden,  The  Hague;  9.  AVal- 
cheren;  10.  Orphan  girls  of  Amsterdam.  Opposite,  in  the  middle,  are 
Models  ofNavalGuns,  apparatus  for  defending  straits,  powder-chests, 
and  other  objects  belonging  to  the  naval  department  mentioned 
at  p.  310. 

Farther  on  is  the  Collection  of  Weapons.  In  the  section  de- 
voted to  ancient  weapons  :  Fortress-gnns  of  the  17-18th  cent.  • 
state  and  ornamental  weapons;  military  and  sporting  pieces  with 
inlaid  and  chased  ornamentation;  pistols,  lances,  shields  (one  of 
tortoise-shell,  with  a  portrait  of  Prince  Frederick  Henry),  swords, 
cross-bows,  field-pieces,  etc.  (some  of  them  found  in  the  Zuider- 
zee). Small  and  richly  ornamented  bronze  cannon  of  1533;  hand- 
some gun  and  gun-carriage,  presented  by  the  king  of  Saxony  to 
William  III.;  banners  of  the  Dutch  provinces  in  the  17th  cent., 
with  coats-of-arms  painted  on  silk.  The  walls  are  adorned 
with  devices  formed  of  the  Modern  Weapons  of  the  Dutch  army. 
A  case  contains  a  collection  of  objects  found  in  excavations,  daggers 
of  the  16th  cent.,  and  a  zinc  plate  found  in  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 


310      Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryks  Museum. 

with  an  inscription  stating  that  it  had  been  left  there  by  the  Dutch 
ship  'Eendragt'  in  1616.    Above  are  English  and  Spanish  flags. 

To  the  right,  Kooni  from  the  house  built  for  himself  by  the 
architect  Jacob  van  Campen  at  Amersfoort,  with  paintings  by  him- 
self and  the  motto  'el  tado  es  nado'  ('all  is  vanity').  In  the  middle 
is  a  clumsy  model  of  the  Royal  Palace  (p.  300).  —  To  the  left  is  a 
collection  of  Smitfi's  "VTorfc,  including  some  stoves  of  the  16th  century. 

Farther  on  is  a  gaily-coloured  group,  representing  a  *Christ- 
cnmgf  m  i/mdeZoopen  (Friesland).  Frisian  dairy;  cheese-press  from 
N.  Holland. 

Dutch  Carriages  and  Sledges,  including  a  state-sledge  of  the  be- 
ginning of  the  18th  cent.,  a  sedan-chair  (17th  cent.),  numerous 
sleighs  adorned  with  carving  and  painting,  a  hunting-carriage  with 
paintings  by  Aart  Schouman  (18th  cent.),  and  two  elegant  Dutch 
chaises  ,  such  as  are  still  used  at  trotting-races  and  (in  a  simpler 
form)  in  the  country. 

In  the  corner  to  the  ripht,  behind  the  carriages,  are  the  Relics  of  the 
Expedition  of  Barents  and  Ileemakerck  (comp.  p.  299),  who  explored  Nova 
Zembla  in  1595-96  in  an  attempt  to  find  a  N.E.  passage  to  China  round 
the  N.  Cape.  Barents  died  on  Nova  Zembla  in  June,  1597,  in  consequence 
of  the  hardships  of  the  winter  spent  there;  and  the  relics  were  discovered 
in  his  winter-house  on  the  island  in  1871  by  Capt.  Karlscn,  a  Norwegian 
navigator. 

The  Naval  Department  chiefly  contains  models  (provided  with 
explanatory  labels),  which  are  specially  attractive  for  those  interest- 
ed in  maritime  matters. 

To  the  right  are  models  of  covered  bridges,  dry-docks,  etc.,  above 
which  is  a  series  of  portraits  of  presidents  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Com- 
pany. —  To  the  left  are  cranes,  windlasses ,  life-boats ;  model  of  Van 
Speyk's  lighthouse  at  Egmond.  Models  of  'factories'  and  other  represen- 
tations of  the  period  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company. 

The  space  between  the  staircases  in  the  glass-covered  court  is  occu- 
pied by  several  large  model  dry-docks,  and  plans  in  relief  of  the  wharfs 
at  Helievoetsluis  and  of  the  Japanese  island  on  Decima. 

The  central  hall  contains  a  collection  of  Model  Ships ,  arranged  in 
three  rows.  In  the  middle  row:  051.  Man-of-war  (70  guns),  built  in  Zee- 
land  in  1G98;  508.  'King  of  the  Nethe!-lands\  ship-of-the-line  with  34  guns 
(1842);  499.  English  ship-of-the-line.  of  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent.  (40  guns). 
—  In  the  left  row:  663.  'Eurydice',  32-gun  frigate,  beginning  of  the  19th 
cent. ;  Cruiser  of  1774 ;  1257.  'Chatham',  man-of-war ;  1235.  Turret-ram 
'Buffalo';  1239.  'Tiger',  monitor;  498.  Ship  of  1756  (40  guns).  —  In  the 
right  row:  652.  'Mercury",  man-of-war,  58  guns  (1T47) ;  1259.  'Elephant', 
merchant-ship  of  the  middle  of  last  cent.;  950.  Naval  cutter  (18  guns); 
665.  'Prins  Frederik  der  Nederlanden'.  44  gun  frigate.  —  In  the  corner  to 
the  right  of  the  entrance:  504.  Ship  of  1794  (74  guns ;  under  glass);  model 
of  a  ship  of  the  17th  cent. ,  dug  up  in  North  Brabant  in  1822.  —  In  the 
cornel"  to  the  left  of  the  entrance:  5(X).  'Vryheid',  man-of-war  of  1782. 

Bv  the  wall,  to  the  W.  of  the  entrance:  503.  Frigate  belonging  to 
the  Dutch  East  India  Company;  1140,  1141.  Barbette  ships;  1150-1154. 
Armour-plating;  1156.  Torpedo-boat;  655.  Frigate  of  1779;  511.  Model  of 
the  first  steam  ferry-boat  used  on  tlie  Moordyk. 

1st  Cabinet:  Light-houses;  signals;  steam -machinery;  beacons.  Ad- 
joining, in  the  large  hall:  ships'  hulls  and  prows. 

2nd  Cabinet:  Oars,  rudders,  compasses,  models  of  small  boats,  anchors, 
rigging.  Lifeltoat  in  the  centre.  Adjoining,  in  the  large  hall:  light-ships, 
pilot-boats,  etc. 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.     311 

3rd  Cabinet:  Logs,  chronometers,  sMp-telegraphg ;  signal-gear;  pumps, 
rigging,  etc. 

We  now  pass  a  number  of  small  ships'  models  in  the  large  hall.  In 
the  centre  of  the  E.  end-wall  is  the  stern  of  the  British  flag-ship  'The 
Koyal  Charles',  captured  by  the  Dutch  in  1G67  in  their  expedition  to 
Chatham,  and  broken  up  in  1673.  —  679.  Galley  built  in  Holland  for 
Peter  the  Great;   6G9.    Swedish  gun-boat;  673,  612.   Dutch  gun-boats,  etc. 

The  centre  of  the  W.  wall  of  the  large  hall  is  occupied  by  a  model 
of  the  monument  erected  in  Batavia  to  the  Dutch  who  fell  in  Acheen  (Su- 
matra) in  1873-80,  with  a  statue  by  Bart  van  Hove.  In  front  is  a  bust 
of  Prince  Henry  of  the  Netherlands ,  flanked  on  the  right  with  captured 
Indian  guns,  and  on  the  left  with  guns  which  belonged  to  the  Dutch 
East  India  Co.  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  Above  are  Swedish  flags, 
captured  in  1658  by  Admiral  Wassenaar;  at  the  corners  Spanish  ship-lan- 
terns;  below  are  four  Dutch  flags,  one  of  which  was  presented  by  King 
William  to  the  '3Iedusa',  which,  entirely  unsupported,  forced  the  straits 
of  Simonosaki  in  Japan  on  July  11th,  1863.  The  remaining  three  flags 
belonged  to  other  vessels  which  took  part  in  the  opening  up  of  the  straits. 
Portraits  of  the  period  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Co. ;  two  hor.'es  by  J.  dc 
Gheyn.  Glass-case  containing  a  costly  gun  presented  to  the  Dutch  by  a 
Javanese  prince.     Several  small  field-pieces  of  the  17th  century. 

A  staircase  opposite  the  entrance  leads  from  the  S.W.  corner 
of  the  glass-roofed  court  to  the  Ecclesiastical  Department  of  the 
Dutch  Museum,  which  illustrates  the  development  of  ecclesiastical 
art  in  the  Netherlands,  from  the  Carlovingian  period,  through 
the  Romanesque,  early-Gothic,  and  late -Gothic  periods,  to  the 
17th  century  (badly  lighted). 

Room  176.  Carlovingian  Period  (8-lOth  cent.)-  The  architectural  features 
are  in  the  style  of  a  chapel,  said  to  have  been  built  by  Charlemagne,  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  church  of  St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht.  The  pavement 
is  a  copy  of  ancient  fragments  in  the  minster  at  Aix-la-Chapelle.  The 
wall-paintings,  pillars,  vaults,  stained-glass,  and  altar  are  reproductions 
of  old  works.  To  the  right,  a  sculptured  tympanum  from  the  abbey  of 
Egmond,  destroyed  in  1573,  representing  worshippers  before  St.  Peter; 
below  is  a  carpet  woven  in  imitation  of  the  covering  fuund  with  the  relics 
of  St.  Boniface  (now  in  the  archiepiscopal  museum  at  Utrecht).  Fimts 
of  the  11th  and  subsequent  centuries.  Plaster-casts  of  monuments  in  Dutch 
churches. 

KooM  175.  Romanesque  Period  (Uth  and  early  12th  cent.).  The  archi- 
tectural features  and  decorations  are  copied  from  the  abbey-church  at 
Herzogenrath,  St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht,  and  other  churches  of  the  11th 
and  12th  centuries.  The  windows  are  copies  of  stained  glass  of  the  same 
period.   Cast  of  the  shrine  of  St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht  (early  12th  cent.). 

Room  174.  Gothic  Period  Gate  l'2th  and  first  half  of  the  13th  cent.). 
The  architecture  is  modelled  on  that  of  the  mir  ster  of  F.oermond  (p.  .372), 
and  the  stained  glass  (Temptation  in  the  Wilderness  and  the  Marriage 
at  Cana)  is  a  reproduction  of  the  famous  windows  in  Notre  Dame  at 
Chartres.  Casts  of  tombs  in  the  church  at  Roermond.  The  patterns  of 
the  polychrome  painting  of  the  arch  between  this  and  the  following  room 
are  borrowed  from  the  church  of  St.  John  at  Poitiers. 

Room  173.  Gothic  Period  (middle  of  the  13th  cent.).  The  architecture 
is  copied  from  the  cathedral  of  I'trecht  (1251-67):  the  pavement  from  the 
minster  at  Roermond;  and  the  windows  from  the  most  ancient  stained  glass 
in  Cologne  Cathedral.  Altar  with  wooden  figures  and  embroidered  ante- 
pendium  of  the  15th  cent. ;  ab^ve  it,  cast  of  a  cross,  used  as  a  reliquary, 
from  Roermond.  In  the  corner,  painted  wooden  groups  of  the  I5th  century. 
—  The  arch  leading  to  Room  172  is  copied  from  the  church  of  Fritzlar. 

Room  172.  Gothic  Period  (14th  cent.).  The  architecture  is  copied  from 
the  church  of  St.  Nicholas  at  Kampen  (1369)  and  the  St.  Jans  Kerk  at 
'3  Hertogenbnsch;  the  paintings  from  the  cathedrals  at  Freiburg  and 
Mayence,  the  church  of  St.  Bavo  at  Haarlem,  and  the  choir  of  the  parish 


312     Route  4-2.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryks  Museum. 

church  (now  pulled  down)  at  Sevenum ;  the  stained  pjlass  from  the  Butchers'" 
Chapel  in  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas  at  Kampen ;  the  choir-stalls  from  the 
Church  of  Our  Lady  (now  pulled  down)  at  Edam-,  and  the  winged  altar 
from  the  church  of  Kiedrich,  near  Mayence.  Numerous  wooden  figures  and 
groups  of  the  15th  and  early  16th  cent.,  on  stands.  Three  handsome  reliefs 
from  the  great  church  at  Gouda  (about  1530),  on  the  outside  of  this  room. 

Room  171.  Oothic  Period  (about  1400).  The  vaulting,  windows,  etc., 
are  copied  from  St.  Michael's  Church  at  Zwolle  (1356) ;  the  pavement  from 
St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht;  the  paintings  from  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas 
at  Venlo,  with  an  Annunciation  and  Angels  from  St.  Martin's  church  in 
the  same  town.  The  Tree  of  Jcse  is  reproduced  from  a  tombstone  in 
St.  Peter's  at  Liibeck.  Among  the  choir-benches  on  the  W.  side  is  the 
hack  of  the  above-mentioned  altar  from  Kiedrich,  and  to  the  right  and 
left  of  it  are  stands  with  carved  and  painted  wooden  figures  and  groups, 
including  good  carvings  from  the  organ-case  at  Xaarden  (early  16th  cent.). 
On  the  E.  side  is  an  altar  with  an  antependium  of  the  15th  cent.,  and 
in  the  corners  are  other  noteworthy  carvings.  Tnder  the  arch  leading  to 
the  next  room  is  an  original  wall-painting  of  the  14th  cent,  (under  glass). 

Rooms  166  and  167.  The  central  pillar  is  a  reproduction  from  the 
church  at  Wouw;  the  pavement  from  the  cathedral  at  St.  Omer.  The 
architectural  features  of  the  S.  Section  are  copied  from  the  church  at  Wouvv 
and  the  church  of  St.  Lebuinus  at  Deventer;  the  paintings  from  the 
St.  Lucius  chapel  in  the  church  of  St.  Martin  at  Venlo  and  from  the 
church  at  Blitterswyk;  the  triangular  spandrils  of  the  two  S.  vaults 
from  a  chapel  in  the  abbey-church  at  Thorn.  The  original  of  the  large 
wall-painting  is  in  the  Dominican  church  at  Maastricht,  dating  from  1537 
(above.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  beneath.  Legend  of  the  990  martyrs  and 
Scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas).  Gothic  *Pulpit  from  the 
convent-church  at  Uden  (end  of  the  15th  cent.);  small  wooden  figure  of 
the  Emperor  Henry  IV.  from  the  church  of  St.  Mary  at  Utrecht;  window 
copied  from  the  church  at  Hulst  (15th  cent.).  —  In  the  N.  Section  the 
painting  is  copied  from  St.  James's  Church  at  Utrecht  and  the  Bovcnkcrk 
at  Kampen.  Engraved  copper-tablets  from  the  tomb  of  Gysbert  '^'^illemsz 
de  Raet  (d.  1505)  in  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Gouda;  stone 
"Tabernacle  of  the  15th  cent. ;  window  from  the  tower  of  the  church  at 
Ransdorp  (beginning  of  the  16th  cent.);  two  figures  of  saints.  —  Two  Cases 
contain  ecclesiastical  vessels,  chiefly  of  the  15th  cent. ;  adjacent  an  aqua- 
manilla  and  holy  water  basin  of  the  12th  or  13th  century. 

Room  168.  ""Reproduction  of  the  chapel  of  the  Cistercian  convent  at 
Aduard,  in  the  province  of  Groningen,  a  brick  edifice  of  the  13th  century. 
The  green  glazed  bricks,  with  flowers  in  relief,  should  be  noticed.  The 
wall-painting  is  copied  from  the  church  of  St.  3Iartin-des- Champs  at 
Paris,  the  angels  above  the  E.  door  from  the  church  of  St.  Gereon  at 
Cologne,  and  the  stained  glass  from  patterns  of  the  13th  century.  —  We 
retrace  our  steps  through  llooms  167  and  166  to   — 

Room  165.  Church  Architecture  of  the  17(h  cent.,  in  the  style  of  the 
Protestant  churches  designed  by  Hendrik  de  Keyser  (d.  1621)  and  Vrede- 
man  de  Vries.  On  the  walls,  copies  of  wall-paintings  from  the  chapels 
of  SS.  Cosmas  and  Damian  and  St.  Severus,  in  the  church  of  St.  Law- 
rence at  Rotterdam.  The  stained-glass  windows  are  reproductions  of  those 
in  the  Oosterkerk  at  Hoorn,  the  first  shewing  the  arms  of  Alkmaar  (1573), 
the  second  representing  the  sea-fight  of  Hoorn  between  the  Dutch  and  the 
Spaniards  in  1573.  The  N.E.  window  (opposite)  from  the  convent  of 
St.  Agatha,  has  a  kneeling  portrait  of  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange.  The 
S.E.  window  is  from  the  Protestant  church  at  Oostburg.  Carved  wood 
pulpit  of  1777;  model  of  the  organ  of  the  church  in  the  Stroomarkt  at 
Amsterdam  before  the  fire  of  1823.     Stand  with  artistic  iron-work. 

The  following  rooms  are  devoted  to  Secular  Architecture,  and 
include  a  highly  interesting  series  of  apartments  in  the  old  Dutch  style. 

Rooms  164,  163.  Council  Chamber,  of  the  end  of  the  14th 
cent.,  the  ceiling  being  an  exact  copy  of  that  in  the  town-hall  of 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42    Route.     313 

Sluis,  dating  from  1396.  Cast  of  a  chimney-piece  (15th  cent.), 
formerly  in  the  castle  and  now  in  the  town-hall  at  Bergen-op-Zoom. 
Large  Gothic  cuphoard,  from  a  convent  in  Utrecht  (14th  cent."); 
above,  two  pieces  of  tapestry,  with  landscapes  (17th  cent.).  In  the 
centre  is  a  valuable  Collection  of  Earthenware^  formed  by  J.  P.  Six 
and  the  Eoyal  Antiquarian  Society,  with  numerous  excellent  spe- 
cimens from  Dutch  and  Rhenish  factories.  Two  Gothic  cabinets, 
etc.  —  Above  the  entrance  is  a  relief  of  the  Flight  into  Egypt 
(loth  cent.). 

Rooms  162.  161.  Magistrates^  Room  of  the  15th  cent.,  arranged 
in  imitation  of  a  room  in  the  Town  Hall  at  Zwolle,  built  by  Master 
Berend  in  1447.  The  chimney-piece,  in  trachyte  from  the  Drachen- 
fels,  was  designed  by  Master  Hermann  of  Cologne.  The  balustrade 
round  the  latter  is  adorned  with  original  heads  (lions,  dogs,  etc.,  as 
shield-bearers),  from  the  ancient  Dutch  court  at  the  Hague,  founded 
by  Charles  the  Bold.  On  the  walls.  Flemish  tapestry,  from  the  end 
of  the  15th  to  the  second  half  of  the  16th  century. 

Case  1  (to  the  left):  Brass,  copper,  and  bronze  articles;  weights, 
jugs,  and  other  domestic  utensils;  snuff-hoxes,  lanterns,  lamps,  candle- 
sticks. —  Case  2 :  Smith's  work  of  the  16-17ih  cent. ;  two  bronze  door- 
knockers of  about  1550.  —  Case  3:  Tinware;  jugs,  tankards,  table  utensils, 
etc.  —  Case  4:  Caskets  in  wood,  leather,  plush,  intarsia,  etc.  from  the 
15th  cent,  onwards.  —  German  tiled  stove  of  the  latter  half  of  the  16th 
century.  —  Gothic  cabinets,  etc. 

Room  158.  On  the  walls  are  representations  of  Scriptural  scenes, 
formed  of  plaques  of  Delft  porcelain.  To  the  right  and  left  are 
double-portals  of  the  17th  cent.,  in  carved  wood,  painted  green.  — 
The  adjoining  room,  to  the  right  (kitchen"),  contains  a  fine  spiral 
Staircase  from  Cologne  (end  of  the  17th  cent.),  domestic  and  kitchen 
utensils,  and  wall -panelling  in  Delft  porcelain.  —  A  modern 
wrought-iron  door  leads  to  — 

*RooM  157,  in  which  are  the  collections  of  Glass  and  Jewelry. 
On  the  walls  valuable  tapestry  by  Jan  de  Maecht  of  Middelburg 
and  representations  in  Delft  porcelain. 

Glass-cases  1  &  2.  Electrotype  reproductions  by  Messrs.  Elkington 
and  Co.  (England)  of  gold  and  silver  works  of  art. 

Case  3  (hexagonal  revolving  stand),  in  the  corner  to  the  left:  Limoges 
and  other  enamels,  12-17th  cent.  ;  miniatures.  —  On  a  table  is  a  silver 
monument  in  honour  of  the  Herring  Fishery,  by  Andreas  Miiller  of  Vlaar- 
dingen  (1793). 

Case  4:  Silver  work  of  foreign  workmanship,  mainly  German 
(Augsburg,  Nuremberg,  and  Strassburg)  of  the  16-i7th  centuries.  *Five 
reliefs  with  scenes  fr<'m  the  life  of  Ueneral  Spinola,  by  Matth.  3Ielin 
(c.  1630).  —  On  the  wall  between  the  windows,  porcelain  tiles  from  Rotter- 
dam (17th  cent.). 

Case  5:  Silver  Plate  and  other  valuables  belonging  to  the  city  of  Am- 
sterdam, formerly  preserved  in  the  Stadhuis;  drinking-horns,  including 
the  fine  silver  drinking-horn  of  the  guild  of  St.  Joris,  which  appears  in 
Van  der  Heist's  painting  of  the  Banquet  of  Arquebusiers  (p.  321);  silver 
drinking-horn  of  the  Guild  of  St.  Sebastian,  which  appears  in  Van  der 
Heist's  painting  of  the  presidents  of  the  Guild  (p.  319);  corporation  chains 
and  batons;  five  silver-gilt  stands  for  tumblers  (1606);  ornamental  *Dish 
and  goblet,  by  Adam  van  Vianen  (1664),  etc. 


314     Route  42.  AMSTEHPAM.  liyks  Museum. 

"Case  6,  with  an  extensive  and  valuable  collection  of  ailver-work  of 
the  13tli  and  subsequent  centuries.  —  By  tbe  window,  two  cases  with 
peasant's  ornaments,  gold  and  silver  filigree.  —  To  Ibe  rigbt:  *Atlas  sup- 
porting tbe  globe,  in  embossed  silver  by  P.  van  Vianen  (1610).  —  Beside 
it,  The  Seasons,  miniatures  by  Blarenberghe ;  *Tab]e-top  of  black  stone 
inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl  by  Jan  Visscher. 

'Case  7  (in  the  corner  l)etween  the  windows),  a  hexagonal  revolving 
case,  contJiins  Small  Works  of  Art.  Sides  1-3:  Oriental  weapons  and 
trinkets,  richly  adorned  with  pearls  and  gems.  Sides  4  &  5:  European 
gems,  watches,  gold  articles,  enamels.  Dutch  spoons,  forks,  etc.  (chiefly 
of  the  17th  cent.);  charms,  needle-cases,  cork-screws ;  book-clasps,  shoe- 
buckles  ;  infants'  rattles,  rosaries,  knife-handles,  etc.  Side  5  :  Silver  articles  ; 
Holy  Family  by  Paul  van  Vianen  (1611),  etc.  Side  6:  Official  insignia  and 
guild  badges  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 

Case  8:  Glass.  Dutch  goblets  of  the  17th  cent.-,  painted  German  goblets; 
Dutch  chased  and  gilded  beakers,  etc. 

Case  9:  Venetian  and  Bohemian  glass,  and  Dutch  imitations. 

''Case  10:  Dutch  glass  with  designs  cut  or  engraved  with  a  diamond, 
chiefly  of  the  17th  and  18th  cent.,  including  good  examples  of  Wolf,  W. 
van  Heemskerk,  etc. 

Case  11  (hexagonal  revolving  stand).  Small  works  of  art  in  gold  and 
silver;  spoons,  knives,  chains,  etc.  —  Beside  the  two  centre  pillars:  Cases 
with  trinkets,  watches,  filigree-work,  boxes,  etc. 

Cases  12  tC-  13:  Cut  glass,  used  for  gifts,  etc.;  on  a  black  stand  in  the 
centre  is  the  so-called  'Hedwig's  Cup\  said  to  date  from  the  13th  cent.; 
cut  and  moulded  glass  of  a  less  elaborate  kind. 

At  the  exit,  handsome  Renaissance  cabinet,  with  relief  «f  the  Cruci- 
fixion, probably  Italian  work  of  the  16th  century. 

Room  150  represents  an  Apartment  of  the  17th  cent..,  completely 
furnished,  with  chimney-piece,  beds,  etc.  At  the  window  is  a 
small  ebony  cabinet,  a  German  work  of  1631;  another,  with 
miniatures,  opposite  the  entrance,  dates  from  1600.  In  the  centre 
is  a  glass-case  with  terracotta  figures  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 
Stained  glass  of  1600. 

Room  150a  (to  the  left").    Bedroom  of  the  17th  century. 

Room  156  (badly  lighted).  Wall-panelling  in  variegated  and 
blue  Delft  plaques  (17th  cent.).  Handsome  cupboards,  copper 
vessels,  etc. 

Room  155.  Wall-panelling  and  chimney-piece  from  Dordrecht 
(1626).  The  ceiling  (Morning  and  Evening,  probably  by  Thcod. 
van  dcr  Schuer,  about  1678)  is  from  tlie  bedchamber  of  Queen 
Mary  of  England,  consort  of  William  III,  formerly  in  the  Binnen- 
hof  at  the  Hague.  Gilt-leather  hangings  and  other  furniture  of  the 
same  period.  Baptism  of  Christ,  painted  after  1540  in  the  style  of 
Jan  van  Scorel. 

Room  154.  Panelling  and  chimney-piece  from  the  early  half 
of  the  17th  cent. ;  ceiling  from  the  apartments  of  the  Princess  Anna, 
wife  of  William  II.,  at  the  Hague.  Gilt-leather  hangings  and  other 
furniture  of  the  same  period. 

Room  153  represents  an  apartment  in  the  house  of  Constantin 
Huygens.  built  by  Jacob  van  Campen  in  1634-37,  in  the  style  of 
Louis  XIV.  The  ceiling,  by  G.  de  Lairc^se  of  Amsterdam,  repre- 
sents Apollo  and  Aurora. 

Room  152.    Ceiling  from  the  old  palace  of  the  Stadtholders  at 


I 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.    315 

Leeuwarden  (latter  half  of  the  ITth  cent.);  leather  hangino^s,  can- 
delabra, etc.,  of  the  early  18th  century.  Glass-case  with  clothes 
worn  by  Prince  Ernest  Caslmir.  Henry  Casimir,  William  Frederick 
of  Nassau,  and  William  ITI.  of  England.  Various  other  historical 
curiosities.  —  Cabinet  i52a  (adjoining).  Chinese  Boudoir  from  the 
Stadtholder's  palace  at  LeeuTvarden  (latter  half  of  the  17th  cent.). 

Room  151.  Ceiling  (apotheosis  of  a  prince)  of  the  end  of  the 
17th  century.  Gilt-leather  hangings  and  chimney-piece  of  the  18th 
century.    Thrones  of  various  stadtholders. 

Room  146.    Oriental  A\eapons.    Case  with  antique  bronzes. 

Room  147  is  in  the  Gothic*  style  of  the  15th  century.  Panelling, 
wall-presses,  and  chimney-piece  from  Utrecht.  By  the  wall,  on  the 
right,  are  ten  bronze  figures  belonging  to  the  city  of  Amsterdam. 
Fine  Gothic  cupboards ;  antique  copper  dishes,  candelabra,  etc. 

Room  148.  Chimney-piece  in  the  Renaissance  style  of  the  close 
of  the  16th  cent.;  the  caryatides  are  copied  from  figures  at  Zalt- 
bommel,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  The 
glass-case  in  the  centre  contains  good  wood-carvings  of  the  15- 
17th  centuries. 

Room  149.  Renaissance  panelling  and  chimney-piece  (middle 
of  the  16th  cent.).  The  central  glass-case  contains  ivory  carvings. 
On  the  walls  and  in  the  recesses  are  works  of  art  in  porcelain, 
wax,  etc.,  including  large  Delft  plaques  in  "Wouverman's  style 
(c.  1660).  —  We  now  return  through  Rooms  148,  147,  and  146  to 
the  hall  and  the  E.  entrance  (p.  309). 

The  Western  Half  of  the  Ground-floor.  —  The  Western 
main  entrance  also  gives  admission  in  the  first  place  to  a  Hall, 
embellished  with  statues  of  Peace,  Wealth,  and  Industrial  Art. 
We  turn  to  the  right  and  enter  — : 

Room  203,  which  contains  the  important  and  valuable  collection 
of  Porcelain  and  Lacquer  Work. 

The  glass-stands  at  the  window  contain  Italian  Majolica,  farther  on 
Delft  Faience,  and  Oast  glass-case)  Chinese  Imitations  of  Delft  Porcelain. 
—  The  three  central  rows  of  glass-cases  contain  Chinese  Porcelain,  the 
most  interesting  specimens  being  :  Case  2  of  the  first  row.  series  of  reddish- 
brown  '■Bucaro''  Porcelain;  Case  1,  of  the  second  row,  Porcelain  decorated 
with  enamel  resembling  reliefs;  Cases  1  and  2  of  the  third  row,  Blue. 
Green.,  Crackle,  and  P,.ed  Porcelain,  and  in  Case  3,  Chinese  Imitations  of 
European  porcelain.  Farther  on,  Japanese  Porcelain;  specimens  of  the 
so-called  Royal  Blue  Porcelain  in  the  Case  5  of  the  third  row;  to  the 
left  of  the  entrance,  group  of  large  Chinese  and  Japanese  vases;  behind, 
silk  hangings  with  Chinese  patterns  (European  work  of  the  18th  cent.).  — 
To  the  right  and  left  of  the  door  is  Tunisian  Earthen-ware;  above,  Brussels 
tapestry,  of  the  end  of  the  18th  century.  —  The  presses  by  the  S.  wall 
contain  Berlin,  Dresden,  French,  and  English  porcelain,  etc.  —  Several 
glass-cases  in  the  central  rows  contain  a  large  collection  of  Japanese 
Lacquer  Work.  In  the  passage  by  the  X.  (window)  wall  are  three  models 
of  Dutch  houses,  one  of  which,  "inlaid  with  tortoise-shell,  of  the  end  of 
the  ITth  cent.,  is  said  to  have  been  constructed  for  Peter  the  Great;  a 
'Penningkastje'  in  the  form  of  the  Mauritshuis  at  the  Hague  (p.  262) ; 
glass-case   with  Chinese  ivory  carvings;    Chinese  tower  in  alabaster,  etc. 

Room  202.     Collection  of  Costumes  (17-19th  cent.);    costly 


^\Q    Route  4'J.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryk.^  Mu.^eum. 

priests'  vestments  of  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.  ;  toys,  etc.  ; 
models  of  post-chaises,  etc.;  musical  instruments  of  the  16-19th 
cent.,  including  a  metronome,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  the 
Felix  Mentis  society.  —  Adjoining  this  room  on  the  S.  is  the  — 

"•'Cabinet  of  Engravings  (Prentencahinet)^  -which  contains  an 
extensive  and  highly  valuable  collection,  chiefly  of  works  by  Rem- 
brandt and  his  contemporaries  and  pupils.  The  collection  com- 
prises about  150,000  plates,  more  than  400  albums  -with  complete 
series  of  the  works  of  different  masters,  about  400  drawings,  a 
historical  atlas  of  the  Netherlands,  and  a  large  number  of  portraits 
(presented  by  Mr.  D.  Franken).  The  Director  is  Mr.  Ph.  van  der 
Kellen.  The  finest  and  rarest  engravings  are  exhibited  round  the 
columns  and  on  stands  (the  arrangement  is  frequently  changed). 

The  Library ,  to  the  S.  of  the  Cabinet  of  Engravings,  occupies 
a  projecting  wing  and  extends  through  all  three  stories,  the  com- 
munication being  maintained  by  an  elegant  iron  staircase.  The 
upper  rooms  contain  two  Collections  of  Coins  (open  daily  except 
Men.  10  to  4  or  5;  Sun.  12.30-4). 

Adjoining  the  Cabinet  of  Engravings  on  the  E.,  is  the  Admirals' 
Room  (No.  189;  badly  lighted),  subdivided  into  ten  cabinets,  and 
containing  portraits  of  naval  heroes,  pictures  of  sea-fights,  etc. 
(chiefly  dating  from  the  17th  century). 

SoDTH  Side.  To  the  risht:  500.  Eilligaert,  Prince  Frederick  Henry 
of  Orange  at  the  siege  of '^Breda  (1637);  5S9.  Butch  School  (17th  cent.), 
Coast  at  Scheveningen ;  74.  ./.  A.  Beerstraa'.cn^  Kaval  battle  between  the 
Dutch  and  English  in  166G;  1033.  R.  Nooms,  Sea-fight  near  Leghorn,  16o3; 
1003.  J.  A.  Afytmx,  Naval  offlcer.  —  159i.  S.  Vrancx,  Siege  of  Wachten- 
donk  by  the  Spaniards  in  1600;  843.  J-  Lingclhach^  Sea-fight  near  Leghorn, 
1653.  —  875,  874.  J.  Lievens,  Admiral  Tromp  and  his  third  wife;  1034a-d. 
7i.  JVooms,  Views  of  Algiers,  Syracuse,  Tangiers,  and  Tunis ;  763.  Th.  de. 
Keysei\  Admiral  Piet  Ilcin;  1508.  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger,  Captured 
English  ships,  June  13th,  1666;  1092.  J.  Peelers,  Destruction  of  the  English 
lleet  at  Chatham  in  1667;  135.  F.  Bol,  Admiral  Michiel  de  Ruyter  (?);  472. 
B.  van  der  Ilelst,  Admiral  Knrten;iar;  1507.  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger, 
Naval  engagement  between  the  Dutch  and  English,  June  ll-l4th,  1666; 
1001.  1002.  J.  A.  Mtjtens^  Admiral  Tromp  and  his  wife. 

1166.  J.  van  Ravesteyn,  CoL  Nicolaas  Smcltzing;  //.  dn  Meyer.  915. 
Surrender  of  the  town  of  Htilst  in  1645,  no  number.  Departure  of  the 
Spaniards  from  Breda  in  1637;  1491.  E.  van  de  Velde,  Departure  of  the 
Spaniards  from  Bois-le-Duc  after  its  surrender  in  1629.  Next  follow  50 
small  portraits  of  princes  of  the  House  of  Orange-Nassan  and  generals 
of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  —  470,  471.  B.  van  der  ffelat.  Admiral 
Aart  van  Nes  and  his  wife;  J.  van  Ravesteyn,  1165.  Vice-Admiral  van 
Cats.  1183.  Gaspard  Coligny ;  40.  L.  Bakhuysen,  Embarkation  of  the 
Grand-Pensionary  Jan  de  Witt;  108.  IJ.  Berckmans,  Admiral  Adriaen 
Banckert;  737,  738.  L.  de  Jongh,  Vice-Admiral  Jan  van  Nes  and  his  wife; 
1597.  H.  a  Vroom,  Naval  battle  near  Gibraltar,  1607,  —  71.  K.  Beelt,  Dutch 
herring-fleet;  1572.  8.  de  Vlieger.  Naval  battle  between  the  Dutch  and  Span- 
iards on  the  Slaak,  1631;  1127,  1128.  F.  Post,  Count  John  Maurice  (if 
Nassau-Siegen.  Stadtholder  of  Brazil  (fine  carved  frame),  Brazilian  land- 
scape; 69.  A.  Beeckman,  Jacatra  (now  Batavia)  on  the  island  of  Java; 
1599.  H.   C.   Vroom,  Return  of  Iloutman,  the  traveller,  1597. 

Then  follow  some  modern  paintings,  including:  1323.  M.  Schotiman, 
Expedition  to  Palembang  (Sumatra)  in  1S19;  no  number,  F.  Post,  Brazilian 
landscape.   —  1321.  Schouman,  Expedition  to  Boulogne  in   1804;    C.  van 


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Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  49.  Route.     317 

Cuylenburg,  248.  Rear-Admiral  Willem  Crul,  250.  Vice-Admiral  Zoutman, 
249.  Vice-Admiral  van  Capellen;  iV.  Bauer,  66.  Burning  of  the  Algerian 
fleet;  68.  Bombardment  of  Algiers  by  night;  169.  F.  de  Brakeleer,  Antwerp 
citadel  after  the  bombardment  in  1832;  761a.  G.  L.  Kiultjes,  Attack  on 
Algiers  by  the  combined  English  and  Dutch  fleet  in  1816 ;  ^.V.  Bauer,  65. 
Arrival  of  the  combined  fleet  in  the  bay  of  Algiers,  67.  Dutch  sloops 
helping  the  English  flagship  'Queen  Charlotte'  (18l6)  ;  1103.  J.  W.  Fiene- 
mann.  General  Baron  Chasse  (p.  139);  454.  A.  C.  Hauck,  Vice-Admiral 
Soutman;  1322.  Schouman,  Bombardment  of  Algiers  by  the  united  English 
and  Dutch  fleet  in  1816;  1357.  W.  Spinny.  Vice-Admiral  H.  Lynslager ; 
1339.  E.  Sillema/is,  Dutch  harbour  with  ships  (pen-and-ink  sketch) ;  W. 
van  de  Velde  the  Elder  (pen-and-ink  sketches),  1505.  Sea-piece,  with  Dutch 
men-of-war;  1504.  Naval  battle  in  the  Soand;  1493.  ]S'aval  battle  near 
Duins  in  1639;  1499.  ^'aval  battle  near  Dunkirk  in  1639;  12.  Aert  Antiim, 
Dutch  and  English  ships  attacking  the  Spanish  Armada  near  Dover,  158S; 
631.  /.  van  Diest  (V),  The  'Eoyal  Charles',  a  captured  English  flag-ship, 
being  brouiiht  into  harbour,  1666;  no  number,  L.  Bakhuysen,  Zuiderzee; 
1091.  B.  Feelers,  Roadstead  of  Flushing;  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Elder  (pen- 
and-ink  sketches),  150;:5.  Embarkation  of  Admiral  Tromp  ;  1502.  Expedition 
to  Chatham  in  1667;  1501.  Xaval  battle  near  Terheide  in  1653;  1500.  Naval 
battle  near  Leghorn  in  1653;  1495.  Sea-piece. —  W.vande  Velde  the  Elder, 
1496.  Naval  engagement  between  the  English  and  Dutch,  June  ll-14th, 
1666;  1494.  Same^'subject;  1598.  E.  C.  Vrolm,  The  Y  at  Amsterdam;  1632. 
A.  Willaerts,  Naval  battle  near  Gibraltar  in  1607.  —  1658.  F.  Wouverman, 
Storming  of  Koevordeu  in  1672;  786.  /.  Koedyck,  Admiral  Loncq  (.V);  no 
number,  D.  van  der  Flaes,  Admiral  Tmrnp 

From  the  Admirals'  Room  we  next  enter  two  rooms  (Nos.  188 
and  186  on  the  Plan)  occupied  by  the  Antiquarian  Society  (Oud- 
heidkundig  Genootschap).  The  fine  old  furniture  of  these  rooms 
dates  from  the  17th  cent.,  and  they  also  contain  gilt-leather  hang- 
ings, tapestry,  porcelain,  and  a  few  paintings.  Among  the  last  are: 
View  of  Egmont  Castle,  with  numerous  figures  [16th  cent.); 
portrait  of  Burgomaster  PieterDirksz  of  Edam  (1583),  conspicuous 
for  his  bushy  beard ;  a  colossal  prize  ox,  by  Jacob  Cornelisz  van 
Oostzaan ;  and  portraits  of  the  17th  century.  —  We  now  descend 
the  staircase  to  the  — 

West  Court,  which  contains  the  Collection  of  Casts,  from 
Dutch  works  of  art. 

In  the  centre:  S.  portal  of  the  church  of  St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht 
(6th  cent.?);  tomb  of  Count  Engelbert  of  Nassau  and  his  wife  Limburg 
of  Baden  (16th  cent);  choir-stalls  from  St.  Martin's  church  at  Bolswaard 
(Gothic;  15th  cent.)  and  the  church  at  Dordrecht  (Renaissance;  i6thcent.); 
choir-screen  from  the  We.^terkerk  at  Enkhui/.en  (Renaissance ;  16th  cent.); 
tomb  of  Joh.  deBorgniwal  from  the  great  church  at  Breda  (1536);  above, 
colossal  organ  from  the  Lutheran  church  at  Amsterdam,  with  wood-carv- 
ings and  paintings  by  Th.  Tidemand.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  the  so- 
called  Holy  Sepulchre  from  the  cathedral  at  Utrecht  (Gothic;  15th  cent.). 
By  the  N.  wall:  Sedilia  from  the  upper  church  at  Kampen  (13th  cent.). 
Organs  from  the  church  at  Scheemda  (16th  cent.)  and  the  church  of  St.  Ni- 
cholas at  Utrecht  (end  of  the  15th  cent.).  Tombstones  of  Siegfried  III. 
of  Eppstein,  archbishop  of  Mayence,  and  William  II.  of  Holland  (13th 
cent.).  By  the  S.  wall  are  some  compartments  of  the  Eenaissance  ceiling 
of  the  chateau  of  Jever;  adjacent,  part  of  the  front  gable  of  the  town- 
hall  at  the  Hague  (16th  cent.).  Then,  an  interesting  collection  of  acroteria, 
including  some  good  works  by  Hendrik  de  Keyser  (i7th  cent.);  and  the 
small  red  terracotta  *Models  of  the  sculptures  on  the  Stadhuis  (p.  300) 
by  the  gifted  sculptor  A.  Quellinus,  which  are  much  superior  to  the 
marble  reproductions. 


^\S    Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryks  Mmeum. 

First  Floor. 
The  staircases  in  the  E.  and  "NV.  vestibules  lead  to  the  first 
floor,  which  is  almost  entirely  occupied  by  the  **Gallery  of 
Paintings  (Schilderyenverzameling) ,  the  finest  in  Holland.  The 
gallery  was  founded  by  King  Louis  Napoleon ,  who  caused  those 
works  of  art  belonging  to  the  Prince  of  Orange  which  had  not  been 
removed  to  Paris  to  be  collected  in  the  Huis  ten  Bosch  at  the 
Hague  (p.  276) ,  and  afterwards  to  be  taken  to  Amsterdam  when 
his  residence  was  transferred  to  that  city  in  1806.  The  collection 
has  since  been  greatly  increased  by  purchases,  gifts,  and  bequests. 
On  the  building  of  the  new  museum  the  modern  pictures  in  the 
Pavilion  at  Haarlem  and  the  collections  (corporation-pieces,  etc.) 
in  the  Stadhuis,  the  Uuiszittenhuis,  the  Museum  van  der  Hoop, 
etc.,  were  united  with  the  royal  collection.  The  gallery  now  con- 
tains about  1700  works.  The  director  is  Mr.  Fr.  U.  O.  Obreen 
(p.  309).  The  illustrated  catalogue,  by  A.  Bredius  (1  fl.),  and  pho- 
tographs of  the  principal  paintings  are  sold  in  the  vestibule. 

The  large  Vestiibulb,  130  ft.  long,  which  we  enter  first,  is 
adorned  with  fine  stained-glass  windows,  executed  by  W.  J.  Dixon 
of  London.  The  three  middle  windows  refer  to  the  chief  periods 
of  Painting,  Architecture,  and  Sculpture,  and  the  two  side  windows 
to  the  other  Arts  and  to  Science,  while  the  twelve  upper  panes 
represent  the  various  professions  and  trades.  The  walls  are  to  be 
adorned  with  historical  paintings.  —  The  tasteful  painted  deco- 
ration of  the  vestibule  is  repeated  in  the  apartments  destined  for 
the  pictures. 

From  the  Vestibule  we  first  enter  the  large  Hall  of  Honour, 
which  occupies  the  central  portion  of  the  building,  and  is  divided 
into  eight  cabinets  by  short  partitions  on  both  sides. 

To  the  right.  Cauinet  1.  (No.  247  H.).  To  the  right,  474. 
Barth.  van  der  Heist,  Gerard  Bicker,  Judge  of  Muiden ;  1280. 
Dirck  Santvoort,  Dirck  Bas,  Burgomaster  of  Amsterdam,  and  his 
family;  136.  F.  Bel,  Mother  and  children;  473.  Van  der  Heist, 
Andreas  Bicker,  Burgomaster  of  Amsterdam ;  131,  132.  Zacharias 
Blyhooft,  Burgomaster  Leidecker  and  his  wife;  1401.  Van  den 
Tempel,  Portrait;  660.  Melch.  d' Hondecoeter ,  The  philosophical 
magpie;  1283,  1284.  Dirck  Santvoort,  Portraits  of  a  boy  and  girl; 
31.  J.  A.  Backer,  Six  Regents  of  the  Huiszittenhuis;  661.  Honde- 
coeter,  Courtyard;  1402.  Abraham  van  den  Teinpel,  Portrait;  459. 
J.  D.  de  Heein,  Flowers  and  fruit;  961.  A.  Mignon,  Bouquet  of 
flowers ;  137.  F.  Bol,  The  lesson  ;  586,  587.  Jan  van  Ravesteyn  (V), 

Cabinkt  2  (246  G.).  To  the  right,  400.  J.  Glauber,  Diana  at 
the  bath ;  *441.  Frans  Hals,  The  artist  and  his  wife  in  a  garden ; 
399.  J.  Glauber,  Mercury  and  lo ;  676.  G.  Honthorst,  Mocking  of 
Christ;  1463-67.  W.  van  Valckert,  Five  scenes  from  the  poor-house 
of  Amsterdam  (beginning  of  the  17th  cent.);   1605.   J.    Weenix, 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.     319 

Country-house;  879.  J.  Lyon,   Company  of  Capt.  Jacob  Pietersz 
Ilooglikanier. 

*665.  Melchior  cVHondecoeter ,  Pelican,  du('ks,  and  peacock, 
known  as  'la  plume  flottante'. 

No  one  has  painted  cocks  and  hens,  ducks  and  drakes,  and  especially 
chickens ,  so  perfectly  as  Melchior  d'Hondecoeter.  He  paints  such  fami- 
lies with  insight  and  sympathy,  as  Italians  paint  the  mystical  Holy  Fa- 
mily; he  expresses  the  mother-love  of  a  hen  as  Raphael  expresses  the 
mother-love  of  a  Madonna  ....  Of  the  eight  pictures  by  Hondecoeter  in 
the  Museum  of  Amsterdam,  'the  floating  feather'  is  the  most  famous. 
The  faintest  breath  of  wind  would  blow  it  away\ 

Burger.    Musies  de  la  Hollande. 

767.   Thomas  de  Keyser,  Company  of  Capt.  Allart  Cloeck. 

Cabinet  3  (245  F.).  To  the  right,  468.  B.  van  der  Heist, 
Four  presidents  of  the  St.  Sebastian  Arquebusiers ,  seated  at  a 
table  and  examining  the  plate  belonging  to  the  guild  ;  to  their  left 
is  a  maid-servant,  carrying  a  large  drinking-horn  (1657;  p.  313)  ; 
873.  J.  Lievens,  Peace  (allegory).  —  669.  G.  Honthorst,  The  merry 
fiddler;  823.  0.  de  Lairesse,  Diana  and  Endymion;  33'2.  N.  Elias^ 
Banquet  of  Capt.  J.  Backer's  company;  768.  Th.  de  Keyser^  Capt. 
J.  Vries's  company;  *883.  N.  Maes,  The  dreamer;  289.  Cornelius 
Drost,  Daughter  of  Herodias,  with  the  head  of  John  the  Baptist ; 
1281.  i>.  Santvoort,  Manageresses  of  the  Amsterdam  House  of  Cor- 
rection (1638);  335.  -V.  Etias,  Four  managers  of  the  House  of  Cor- 
rection, with  a  beadle  (1628);  365.  Govert  Flinck,  Four  officers  of 
the  Kloveniersdoelen  (1642). 

Cabinet  4.  (244 E.).  To  the  right,  142,  143.  F.  Bol,  Managers 
and  Manageresses  of  the  Lepers"  Hospital ;  438.  Jan  van  der  Hagen, 
Landscape ;  36,  37.  Jan  de  Baen ,  The  ambassador  Hieron.  van 
Beverningk  and  his  wife  (1673) ,  in  a  beautifully  carved  frame ; 
337.  Elias,  Capt.  Raephorst  and  his  company;  769.  Th.  de  Keyser, 
Dutch  family;  124.  //.  Bioemaert,  Winter  (allegory) ;  1506.  W.  van 
de  Velde  the  Younger,  The  Y  (harbour  of  Amsterdam);  1530.  A.  H. 
Verboem,  Landscape. 

To  the  left.  Cabinet  1.  (_No.  244A).  To  the  right,  252.  A.  Cuyp, 
Landscape  with  cattle ;  1046.  J.  van  Ochtervelt,  Regents  of  theLepers' 
Hospital;  1282.  D.  Santvoort,  Regent-piece;  409.  J.  van  Goyen, 
View  of  Dordrecht;  342.  N.  Ellas,  Portrait;  971.  N.  C  Moeyaert, 
Regent-piece  ;  826.  C.  Eastman  and  A.  van  Nieulandt,  Arquebusiers 
on  the  way  to  ZwoUe  to  repel  the  Spaniards,  1623  ;  476.  B.  van  der 
Heist,  Portrait;  273.  S.  van  der  Does,  Mother-love;  222.  A.  Came- 
rarius  ,  Christ  and  the  centurion;  475.  B.  van  der  Heist,  Portrait; 
1589.  C.  van  der  Voort,  Corporation-piece. 

Cabinet  2.  (No.  245  B).  To  the  right,  no  number,  *N.  Maes, 
Grace  before  meat ;  C.  van  der  Voort,  Portrait ;  *1227.  J.  van  Ruys- 
daci.  Waterfall ;  662.  M.d' Hondecoeter, Dnck-^ond  ;  663.  M.d' Honde- 
coeter ,  Hen  protecting  its  chickens ;  970.  M.  Moeyaert,  Choosing 
a  suitor ;  361.  G.  Flinch,  Isaac  blessing  Jacob.  —  *362.  Govert  Flink, 
Arquebusiers  of  Amsterdam  celebrating  the  conclusion  of  the  Peace 


^20    Route  4-2.  AMSTERDAM.  liyks  Mm^euni. 

of  Westphalia  (IG^/o  ft.  by   8^/2  ft-)  j    ^^^  artist's   greatest  work, 
painted  in  1G48. 

The  scene  is  divided  into  two  groups:  the  figures  to  the  left,  nine  in 
all,  are  issuing  from  the  guild  house;  at  their  head,  in  black  velvet,  with 
a  white  scarf,  is  Captain  Jan  Huidecoper  van  Maarseveen ;  behind  him  is 
Ensign  Nicolaas  van  Waveren.  At  the  door  is  the.  artist  himself.  At  the 
other  side  of  the  picture  are  eleven  figures ,  headed  by  Lieutenant  Frans 
van  Waveren,  dressed  in  black,  with  a  blue  scarf,  who  appears  to  be 
congratulating  the  captain. 

664.  7)'.ffondeco€<er,  Menagerie  ;  814.  G.  van  der  Kuyl,  Musical 
party;  1606.  J.  Weenix ,  Game  and  fruit;  359.  B,  Fabritius,  Por- 
trait of  the  architect  Van  der  Helm,  with  his  wife  and  child;  140. 
F.  Bol,  Daughter  of  Herodias;  *1607.  J.   Weenix,  Game. 

Cabinet  3.  (No.  246  C).  To  the  right,  407.  J.  van  Goyen, 
View  of  the  Valkenhof  at  Nymegen;  *91.  N.  Berchem,  The  ferry; 
no  number,  J.  Rogers,  Meeting  of  Jacob  and  Esau ;  *366a.  G.  Flinch 
(formerly  ascribed  to  Rembrandt),  Portrait  of  Receiver-GeneralJan 
Uytenbogaert  (?) ;  820,  821.  G.  de  Lairesse,  Mars,  Venus,  and  Cupid  ; 
above,  353.  C.  van  Everdingen,  Portrait;  405.  J.  van  Goyen,  River- 
scene;  1313.  J.  van  Schooten,  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  333.  N.  Ellas, 
Arquebusiers;  926.  M.  Mierevelt,  Portrait  of  the  author  Jacob  Cats 
75.  J.  Beerstraaten,  Ruins  of  the  old  town-hall  at  Amsterdam  after 
the  conflagration  of  1652;  33.  J.  de  Baen,  Portrait  of  Jan  de  AVitt; 
92.  N.  Berchem,  Boaz  and  Ruth. 

Cabinet  4.  (No.  247  D).  To  the  right,  1132.  Paul  Potter, 
Bear-hunt,  much  damaged;  27.  A.  Backer,  Portrait;  466.  H.  Heer- 
schop.  Discovery  of  Erichthonius  by  the  daughters  of  Cecrops ;  1538. 
L.  Verschuier,  Arrival  of  Charles  II.  of  England  at  Rotterdam;  634. 
/5.  van  Hoogstraten  (v),  Corporation-piece  from  Dordrecht;  264. 
C.  Z>e^/f,  Poultry-dealer;  830.  A.  Leemans ,  Still-life;  1611.  J.  B. 
Weenix,  Game;  84.  A.  van  Beyeren,  Fish.  — We  now  enter  the  — 

*Rembrandt  Room  (No.  243),  devoted  to  the  great  painter 
Remlirandt  Harmensz  van  Ryn  (b.  at  Leyden  in  1607,  d.  at  Am- 
sterdam in  1669).  The  glass  roof  is  supported  by  figures  of  the 
four  periods  of  the  day  standing  upon  colossal  marble  columns. 
The  frieze  shows  the  chief  dates  in  Rembrandt's  life.  Opposite  the 
entrance:  **1246  Rembrandt's  so-called  Night  Watch,  painted  in 
1642,  the  master's  largest  and  most  celebrated  work  (11  by  14  ft.), 
placed  almost  touching  the  ground  so  as  greatly  to  enhance  the 
appearance  of  energetic  movement.  It  represents  Captain  Frans 
Banning  Cocq's  company  of  arquebusiers  emerging  from  their 
guild-house  ('doele')  on  the  Singel,  where  the  picture  was  preserveil 
till  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.   Comp.  p.  Iv. 

In  the  middle,  in  front,  marches  the  captain  in  a  dark  brown,  almost 
black  costume,  at  his  side  Lieutenant  Willem  van  Ruitenberg  in  a  yellow 
bullalo  jerkin,  both  figures  in  the  full  sunlight,  so  that  the  shadow  ot  the 
captain's  hand  is  distinctly  traceable  on  the  jerkin.  On  the  right  hand  of 
the  captain  are  an  arqueb'usier  putting  on  his  weapon  and  two  children, 
of  whom  the  one  in  front,  a  gaily-attired  girl,  has  a  dead  cock  hanging 
from  her  girdle  (perliaps  one  of  the  prizes).  Ou  a  step  behind  them  is 
the  (lag-beaver  Jan  Visn^er  Cornelissen.     The   other   side   of  the  picture  is 


Ryks  Museum  AMSTERDAM.  -if?.  Route.     321 

pervaded  with  similar  life  and  spirit,  from  the  lieutenant  to  the  drummer 
Jan  van  Kampoort  at  the  extreme  corner,  who  energetically  beats  his 
drum  to  urge  on  the  company.  In  an  oval  frame  on  a  column  in  the 
background  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the  members  of  the  guild.  The 
remarkable  chiaroscuro  of  the  whole  picture  has  led  to  the  belief  that 
Rembrandt  intended  to  depict  a  nocturnal  scene,  but  the  event  represented 
really  takes  place  in  daylight,  the  lofty  vaulted  hall  of  the  guild  being 
lighted  only  by  windows  above,  to  the  left,  not  visible  to  the  spectator, 
and  being  therefore  pmperly  obscured  in  partial  twilight.  The  peculiar 
light  and  the  spirited  action  of  the  picture  elevate  this  group  of  portraits 
into  .1  most  eftective  dramatic  scene,  which  ever  since  its  creation  has 
been  enthusiastically  admired  by  all  connoisseurs  of  art.  This  picture 
should  be  seen  late  in  the  afternoon  (admission  in  sumaer  till  5  p.m.), 
as  the  light  then  suits  it  best.  —  The  painting  was  successfully  cleaned 
by  llopman  in  1889. 

To  the  right  of  the  Night  Watch  :  *724.  Karel  du  Jardin ,  Five 
directors  of  the  House  of  Correction  sitting  and  standing  at  a  table, 
and  a  servant,  1669.  The  connoisseur  will  be  surprised  to  find  this 
fine  corporation  -  picture  painted  by  the  well-known  painter  of 
pastoral  subjects. 

*467.  Bartholomeus  van  der  Heist ,  "De  Schuttersmaaltyd' ,  or 
Banquet  of  the  Arquebusiers  ('schutters'J  of  Amsterdam ,  who  on 
18th  June,  1648,  are  celebrating  the  conclusion  of  the  Peace  of 
Westphalia  in  the  St.  Jorisdoele,  or  shooting-gallery  of  St.  George. 

The  twenty-five  'schutters",  life-size  portraits,  are  sitting  or  standing 
around  a  richly-furnished  table  in  brisk  and  joyous  mood.  In  the  right 
corner  is  Captain  Wits ,  in  black  velvet  with  a  blue  sash ,  holding  a 
silver  drinking-cup  (the  original  now  in  the  Dutch  Museum,  p.  313)  in  one 
hand,  and  presenting  the  other  to  Lieutenant  van  Waveren ,  who  wears 
a  handsome  pearl-grey  doublet,  richly  brocaded  with  gold.  In  the  centre 
of  the  picture  is  the  ensign  Jacob  Banning,  while  to  the  left  a  number 
of  other  arquebusiers  are  seen  drinking  and  chatting.  The  heads  are 
marvellously  life-like,  and  the  drawing  bold  and  minutely  correct.  The 
details  are  perhaps  more  to  be  admired  than  the  aggregate  effect ,  which 
is  Somewhat  marred  by  the  uniformly  distributed  light  and  the  want  of 
contrast.  The  hands  are  strikingly  true  to  nature  and  characteristic  of 
their  owners,  and  it  has  been  not  inaptly  remarked  that  if  they  were  all 
thrown  together  in  a  heap  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  restoring  them 
to  the  figures  to  which  they  respectively  belong.     Comp.  p.  Ivii. 

364.  G.  Flinck,  Company  of  Capt.  Albert  Bas  (1645);  1279.  J. 
van  Sandrart,  Company  of  Capt.  van  Swieteu,  acting  as  escort  to 
Queen  Maria  de'  Medici  (1638).  —  *477.  B.  van  der  Heist,  Cor- 
poration-piece of  thirty-two  figures  (1639) ;  in  point  of  size  and 
careful  colouring  it  surpasses  the  Schuttersmaaltyd  (opposite). 

To  the  left  of  the  Night  Watch :  *444.  F.  Hals  (completed  by 
Pieter  Codde),  Capt.  Keynier  Read's  Company  of  Arquebusiers  (the 
'Lean  Company'),  an  admirable  and  characteristic  work,  full  of  life 
and.  vigour,  painted  in  1637. 

A  desk  near  the  entrance  contains  the  so-called  '•Oolden  Book\  con- 
taining the  record  of  the  opening  of  the  Museum  and  intended  to  receive 
the  signatures  of  exalted  visitors. 

We  next  proceed  to  the  left  to  the  S.  half  of  the  first  floor,  pass- 
ing through  the  Caklovingian  Room  (No.  236),  an  imitation  of  the 
building  said  to  have  been  raised  by  Charlemagne  over  the  W. 
chapel  of  St.  Servatius  at  Maastricht  (p.  219),  and  then  enter  the  — 

Baedekek's  Belgium  and  Holland.    10th  Edit.  21 


322     Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  liyks  Museum. 

International  Room  (No.  235).  To  the  right  (S.  wall),  Fle- 
mish S(;hool :  no  number,  M.  de  Vos,  Susanna;  1406.  D.  Tenters 
the  Younger,  Village  tavern;  742.  J.  Jordaens,  The  tribute-money 
(Matt.  XVII.  27);  no  number,  Alex.  Adriaensen,  P'ish;  209.  J.  Brue- 
ghel, Landscape;  309.  A.  vanDyck,  Nicolas  van  der  Borcht,  an 
Antwerp  mercliant;  741.  Jordaens,  Faun;  G.  de  Crayer,  244.  Ado- 
ration of  the  Shepherds,  245.  Descent  from  the  Cross;  1630.  J. 
Wildens,  View  of  Antwerp  from  the  landward  side  (1635;  an  in- 
teresting work) ;  307.  Van  Dyck,  Prince  William  II.  of  Orange  and 
his  wife  Mary  Stuart  (1641),  daughter  of  King  Charles  I. ;  370,  F. 
Francken,  Abdication  of  Charles  V.,  at  Brussels  ,  1555;  1404.  I). 
Teniers  the  Younger,  Guard;  1338.  G.Seghcrs,  Christ  and  the  peni- 
tents; 895.  Malo,  Jesus  in  the  house  of  Lazarus.  —  Opposite,  on 
the  N. wall:  1222.  Rubens (;>),  Caritas  Romana;  1344.  Franz  Sny- 
ders  ,  Dead  game  and  vegetables  ;  1245.  D.  Ryckaert  HI..,  Shoe- 
maker's bench;  1353.  J.  *S/)«76er(/,  Corporation-banquet;  1221.  Rubens, 
Bearing  of  the  Cross;  53a.  Feeler  Balten  (of  Antwerp;  d.  about 
1600),  St.  Martin's  fair. 

Italian  School  (same  wall)  :  202.  Cristofano  Allori  (Bronzino),  Ju- 
dith with  the  head  of  llolofernes ;  225.  Caravaggio,  Death  of  Orion; 
715.  Lanfranco,  John  the  Baptist;  1431.  Garofalo,  Adoration  of 
the  Magi ;  716.  /School  of  Ferrara,  Marriage  of  the  Virgin  (ca.  1530). 

French  School  (at  the  end  of  the  room  adjoining  the  Carlovin- 
gian  Room):  24.  J.  A.  J.  Aved,  Stadtholder  William  IV.  (1751); 
N.  Berlin,  115.  Joseph  and  Potiphar's  Wife,  116.  Susannah  at  the 
bath;  166.  S.  Bourdon,  Marriage  of  St.  Catharine;  1143,  1144. 
Gaspard  Poussin  (Dughet),  Landscapes. 

Spanish  School  (at  the  other  end  of  the  room)  :  996.  Murillo, 
Annunciation;  714.  German  School  of  the  17th  cent,  (formerly  as- 
cribed to  Ribera),  Earthly  vanity;  1352.  Spanish  School  (ca.  1650; 
formerly  ascribed  to  Velasquez),  The  Infante  Charles  Balthasar,  son 
of  Phillip  IV.  of  Spain. 

Room  of  the  Early  Netherlandish  Masters  (No.  228).  To 
the  right,  528.  Dutch  School  (1st  half  of  the  15th  cent.),  Life  of 
Christ  (18  scenes)  ;  541.  Dutch  School  (first  half  of  the  16th  cent.), 
Adonis;  297.  German  School  (ca.  1630),  The  prophetess  Anna  in 
the  Temple;  403.  Jan  Gossaert,  surnamed  van  Mabuse,  Philip 
of  Burgundy,  Bishop  of  Utrecht;  1418.  Cornelis  Teunissen,  Cor- 
poration-piece (1559);  *761.  Master  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin 
(Cologne;  1512-30),  Portrait;  525.  Dutch  School  (14th  cent.), 
Picture  in  memory  of  the  Sieurs  de  Montfort,  who  fell  in  1345  while 
lighting  the  Frisians;  719.  Dirck  Jacobsz,  Corporation-piece;  1628. 
School  of  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  Descent  from  the  Cross ;  533. 
Flemish  School  (14:^0-1600),  Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  57.  Dirck  Ba- 
rentsz.  Corporation-piece  (1564) ;  526,  527.  Dutch  School  (15th 
cent.),  Jacqueline  of  Bavaria  and  her  husband  Franck  van  Borselen; 
1419.    Cornelis   Teunissen,   Corporation-piece  (1557);   532.   Dutch 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.    323 

School  (second  half  of  the  15th  cent.),  Virgin  and  Child,  with  SS. 
Barbara,  Cecilia,  Theresa,  and  Catharine;  529.  Dutch  School  (15th 
cent.),  Salvator  Mundi;  373.  French  School  (c.  1550),  Emp.  Charles 
v.;  no  number,  Jacob  Cornelisz,  Portrait;  241.  J.  Cornelisz ^  Saul 
and  the  Witch  of  Endor  (1526);  58.  Barcntsz ,  Corporation-piece 
(1566);  382.  Geertgen  van  St.  Jans  (Haarlem,  end  of  the  I5th 
cent.),  Allegory  of  the  Atonement ;  1564.  Flemish  School  (ca.  1500), 
Crucitixion,  with  saints ;  902.  Old  Copy  of  Quinten  Massys^  Virgin 
and  Child;  545.  Dutch  School  (16th  cent.).  Buffoon;  718.  D.  Ja- 
cob sz  ^  Corporation-piece  (1563);  547.  Dutch  School  (second  half 
of  the  16th  cent.).  Corporation-piece;  Jan  van  Scorel  (Schooreel), 
1333.  Solomon  and  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  1334.  David  and  Bath- 
sheba,  1332.  Corporation-piece;  535.  Dutch  School  (c.  1530),  Wings 
of  a  triptych  ,  with  the  donors.  —  Few  of  the  old  pictures  in  this 
room  can  be  assigned  with  certainty  to  dejftnite  names.  In  the  middle 
are  six  *Altarpieces  by  unknown  masters,  of  the  end  of  the  15th 
and  the  beginning  of  the  16th  century. 

Netherlandish  School  of  the  16th  Cent.  (No.  227).  To  the 
right,  2.  P.  Aertsen^  Egg-dance;  1570.  Flemish  School  (second  half 
of  the  16th  cent.),  Lucretia  and  Tarquin;  1568,  1567.  Flemish 
School  (ca.  1600),  Portraits  of  the  Infanta  Isabella  Clara  Eugenia 
and  her  husband  the  Archduke  Albert  of  Austria;  375.  French 
School  (16th  cent.),  Emp.  Charles  V. ;  1565,  1566.  Flemish  School 
(ca.  1600) ,  Philip  III.  of  Spain  and  Anna  of  Austria ,  his  fourth 
wife;  755,  756(?).  Comelis  Ketel,  Corporation-pieces;  1569.  Fle- 
mish School  (2nd  half  of  the  16th  cent.),  Joseph  and  Potiphar's 
wife;  463.  M.  van  Heemskerck,  Resurrection.  1660.  J.  A.  Wlte- 
wael,  David  and  Abigail  (1597);  1111.  A.Pietersen,  Six  syndics  of 
the  cloth-hall  at  Amsterdam  (1599);  *435  C.  van  Haerlem,  Adam 
andEve;  401.  GoUzius,  Dying  Adonis.— 436.  Comelis  van  Haarlem, 
Portrait;  759.  Corn.  KetelQi'),  Corporation-piece;  1472-83.  CHho 
van  Veen  ^  Twelve  representations  from  the  struggle  of  the  Ba- 
taviaus  with  the  Romans  (bought  by  the  government  in  1613  for 
220011.);  1141.  FransPourbus  the  Elder,  Portrait;  754,  758.  Kelel, 
Company  of  Capt.  Rosecrans;  56.  Barentsz,  Duke  of  Alva;  911. 
Comelis  Metsys,  Landscape,  with  the  Prodigal  Son ;  5.  Pieter  Aert- 
sen.  Nativity;  iiOS.  Aert  Pieter  sen.  Corporation-piece;  434.  Corn, 
van  Haerlem,  Massacre  of  the  Innocents ;  465.  Maerten  van  Hcems- 
kerck,  Portrait  of  Joh.  Colman  (ca.  1538).  —  1331.  Jan  van  Scho- 
reel,  Magdalene;  no  number,  Vnknoxcn  Artist,  Five  gentlemen  and 
a  lady  of  Naaldwyk.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  room  :  4.  P.  Aertsen, 
Presentation  in  the  Temple  (wing  of  an  altarpiece);  464.  M.  van 
Heemskerck,  Erythrxan  Sibyl  (wing  of  an  altarpiece). 

The  DuppER  Room  (No.  226)  contains  a  collection  of  64  Dutch 
paintings,  chiefly  of  the  best  period  (17th  cent.),  bequeathed  to  the 
Museum  in  1870  by  M.  L.  Dupper  of  Dort.  —  To  the  right.  188. 
Q.G.vanBrekelenkam,  The  mouse-trap;  302.  Corn.  Dusart^  Rustic 

21* 


324     Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryks  Museum. 

festival  J  1148.  A.  Pynacker,  Italian  scene  j  44.  L.  Bakhuysen,  The 
Y  atAmstenlam;  1664.  Wt/nanf5, Landscape j  *107'2.  A.vanOstade^ 
Quack;  251.  A.  Cuyp  ,  Mountain-scene;  1346.  M.  Soryh ,  Lute- 
player;  1411.  Terbury,  Portrait  of  himself ;  1486.  A.  van  de  Velde^ 
Landscape;  *1365.  Jan  Steen,  Birthday-festival  of  the  Prince  of 
Orange  ('Prinsjesdag'),  a  tavern  scene  with  numerous  figures;  1412. 
Terbury^  His  wife;  275.  G.Dou,  Tlie  painter  smoking  a  pipe;  990. 
Mouchcron,  Italian  garden;  1236.  Sal.  van  liuysdael^  Tlie  halting- 
place;  170.  Brakenburyh,  Eve  of  St.  Nicholas;  1373.  JanSteen^  A 
toper;  1230.  J.  van  Ruysdael^  Woodland  scene;  1661.  Th.  Wyck, 
Alcliemist;  491.  V^.  de  Heusch,  Wood;  1579.  A.  de  Vols,  Lady 
and  parrot;  1372.  J.  Steen,  Quack;  98.  J.  Berck-Heyde,  Town 
weigh-house  at  Haarlem ;  20.  J.  Asselyn  (Krabbetje),  Cavalry  en- 
gagement; *506.  M.Hobbema^  Mill;  111.  D.  van  denBeryen,  Land- 
scape with  cattle;  442.  F.  Hals,  The  fool  (a  copy);  159.  J.  Both^ 
Italian  landscape;  97.  Verhayen ^  Landscape,  with  figures  by  iJcr- 
chem;  274.  S.  van  der  Does,  Landscape  with  cattle;  above,  815. 
G.  van  der  Kuyl,  Cunning  excels  strength;  961.  /''.  van  Mieris  the 
Elder,  Transitoriness;  *1073.  A.vanOstade,  The  baker;  1229. 
J.  van  Ruysdael,  Winter-scene;  841.  J.  LinyeLbach,  Camp;  1383. 
Dirck  Stoop,  Hunt;  748.  J.  van  Kessel,  Woodland  scene;  1509. 
W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger,  Calm;  963.  Mignon,  Fruit;  790.  Ph. 
de  Koninck,  Landscape;  1531.  ^1.  Verboom,  Cross-roads;  691.  S. 
van Hooystraten,  Portrait;  348.  A.vanEverdingen,  Norwegian  land- 
scape; 408.  J.  van  Goyen,  The  old  oaks  (with  the  yellow  lights 
peculiar  to  this  master);  43.  L.  Bakhuysen,  Zuiderzee;  962.  Mig~ 
non,  Flowers;  756.  Ketel  (?),  Corporation -piece;  1362.  J.  A.  van 
Staveren,  Schoolmaster;  430.  J.  JIackaert,  Clearing;  1231.  J.  van 
Ruysdael,  View  of  Haarlem;  726.  K.  du  Jardin,  Italian  landscape, 
witli  cattle;  406.  J.  van  Goyen,  The  Meuse  at  Dort;  1659.  Fitter 
Wouverman,  Setting  out  for  the  chase;  *1587.  C  van  der  Vonrt, 
Managers  and  Manageresses  of  the  Almshouse  in  Amsterdam;  *S.S2. 
N.  Maes,  Woman  spinning,  an  admirable  work  in  Uembrandt's  man- 
ner; 1615.  A.  van  der  Werff,  Entombment;  1110.  A.  Pietersz,  Cor- 
ponition-piece  (a  fragment);  1347.  i/.A/.5or<//<,  Storm  on  the  Meuse, 
1666;  986.  Mouc.heron,  Landscape;  1213.  W.  Romeyn,  Landscape 
with  cattle;  1647.  Fhilip  Wouverman,  Camp. 

The  Van  de  Poll  Room  (No.  225)  contains  a  collection  of  52 
Dutch  pictures  of  the  17th  cent.,  bequeathed  to  the  Museum  in 
1880  by  Baron  J.  S.  H.  van  de  Poll.  —  To  the  right,  1534.  Jan 
Verkolje,  Family  concert;  1036.  J.  van  iVoordt,  Portrait;  1588.  C. 
van  der  Voort,  Uegent-piece;  886.  N.Maes,  Portrait;  *306.  A. 
van  Dyck,  Portrait;  1459.  W.  van  Valckert,  Corporation -piece; 
886.  N.  Maes,  Portrait;  1262.  <".  Saftieven,  Boors  in  a  tavern;  W. 
van  Valckert,  1468.  Portrait,  1461.  Regents;  1136.  Paul  Potter, 
Landscape  with  cattle;  189.  Q.  Brekelenkam ,  A  confidential  con- 
versation. —  338,  339.  Elias,  Portraits ;  *1514.  W.  van  de  Vetde  the 


Ryks  Mu<eum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.     325 

Younger^  Stormy  sea;  1268.  U.Saftleven.  Hilly  laixlsoape;  334. 
N.Elias,  Corporation-piece;  **1249.  Remhrandt ,  Elizabeth  Bas, 
■widow  of  Admiral  Swartenhont  (one  of  Rembrandt's  best  portraits, 
finished  with  the  greatest  care  and  delicacy) ;  *1513.  Van  de  Velde 
the  Younger,  Calm  (remarkable  for  the  perspective  and  the  flne  effect 
of  the  upper  atmosphere);  1237.  <??.  van  Ruysdael,  Villag:e-inn ; 
291.  H.  DuhheU,  Still  water;  844.  N.  Maes,  Portrait;  765.  Th.  de 
Keyser,  Portrait;  102,  103.  G.  Berck-Heyde.  Views  of  Amsterdam ; 
Hondecoeter.  666.  Game,  667.  Poultry;  79.  A.  Beerstraten,  Leyden 
in  winter;  1023.  C.  Netscher,  Portrait;  330.  J.  Ekels,  View  of  Am- 
sterdam ;  2S0.  0.  Dou,  Portrait;  1345.  P.  Snyers,  Saleswoman;  829. 
Sir  Thoynas  Lairrence,  W.F.  Mosge-M  nil  man,  founder  of  the  Van 
dc  Poll  collection;  139.  F.  BoU  Portrait;  1460.  W.  van  Valckert, 
Masters  of  the  Merchant's  Guild  of  Amsterdam;  952.  F.  van  Mieris 
the  Elder,  Jacob's  dream  ;  1441.  C.  Trood,  Alexander  the  Great  at 
the  battle  of  the  Granicus;  138.  F.  Bol,  Portrait;  1375.  J.  Steen, 
Dancing-lesson.  —  "We  now  enter  (in  a  straight  direction)  the  — 

Room  of  the  Anatomical  Painttngs  (No.  220),  i.e.  represen- 
tations of  anatomical  lectures  and  demonstrations,  with  portraits  of 
the  most  eminent  professors  of  medicine  at  Amsterdam  in  the 
17-lSth  cent,  and  the  contemporary  members  of  the  Surgeons' 
Guild,  for  whose  guild-halls  the  pictures  were  painted.  The  cele- 
brated work  of  Rembrandt,  described  at  pp.  265,  266,  is  the  most 
important  specimen  of  this  class  of  paintings.  —  Over  the  door, 
1442.  C.  Troost,  Lecture  on  anatomy;  1155,  1156.  Quinckhard,  Pre- 
sidents of  the  Surgeons'  Guild;  to  the  right  1109.  A.  Pietersz,  28. 
A.  Backer,  336.  -E/ir/s, Lectures ;  38.  JandeBaen,  Dead  bodies  ofthe 
brothers  Dc  Witt  at  the  gallows  (see  p.  270);  1123.  J.  Pool,  The 
surgeons  Boekelmann  and  Six;  IQQ.  Th.de Key ser,  Lecture  (1619)  ; 
1250.  Remhrandt,  Fragment  of  an  anatomical  piece,  three-quarters 
of  which  were  destroyed  by  fire  in  1723 ;  the  body  is  strongly  fore- 
shortened. —  1443.  Troost,  150.  Boonen,  1154.  Quinckhard,  Pre- 
sidents of  the  Guild  of  Surgeons.  —  We  leave  this  room  by  the  same 
door  as  we  entered,  and  turn  to  the  right  into  the  — 

Portrait  Room  (No.  214).  The  portraits,  which  begin  in  the 
passage,  are  chiefly  interesting  for  their  subjects  and  the  costumes. 
—  To  the  right,  818  (and  opposite)  819.  Lairesse.  Allegories;  1435. 
D.  van  Tol,  Portrait;  865,  866.  Liotard,  Hendrick  Bicker  and  his 
wife;  over  the  door,  1524.  A.  van  de  Venne,  Frederick  V.  of  Bohe- 
mia and  his  wife  at  the  chase  (in  grisaille);  1276.  Sandrart,  Eva 
Bicker;  1025.  C.  Netscher,  Agatha  Bicker;  999.  Musscher,  Maria 
Schaep;  1456.  Vaillant,  Jacoba  Bicker;  511.  C.  H.  Hodges,  1082. 
Ovens,  Portraits;  *930.  Mierevelt,  Jan  van  Oldenbarneveld ;  1024. 
C.  Netscher,  J.  J.  Backer;  1276.  Sandrart,  Portrait;  637,  651,  650, 
646.  Four  excellent  miniatures  of  the F.icker family.  —  *469.^.t»an 
der  Heist,  Princess  Maria  Henrietta  Stuart,  widow  of  William  IL 
(an  important  work) ;  679.  W.  van //ont/iorsf,  Stadtholder  William  H. 


326     Route  i'2.  AMSTERDAM.  Rxjks  Mu.^eum. 

of  Orange;  384.  W.  de  Geest,  Count  llonry  Casiniir  of  Nassau;  670, 
671.  Honihorst ,  Stadtholdcr  Frederick  Henry  of  Orange  and  his 
wife;  9'21.  Mierevelt,  Stadtholdcr  William  I.  of  Orange;  924.  Miere- 
velt^  f>tadtholder  Prince  Fred.  Henry  of  Orange;  1523.  A.  van  de 
Venne,  Princes  Maurice  and  Fred.  Henry  of  Orange ;  1291.  G.  Schal- 
cken,  SVilliam  III.  of  Orange,  King  of  England;  383.  W.  de  Geest^ 
Count  Ernest  Casimir  of  Nassau ;  922.  M.  van  Mierevelt .  Prince 
I'hilip  William  of  Orange. 

**1247.  Rembrandt^  Directors  of  the  Guild  of  the  Clothmakers 
('dc  Staalmeestcrs',  literally  'stamp-masters'),  1661. 

Four  of  the  directors  are  sitting  at  a  tal)le  covered  with  an  Oriental 
cloth,  while  a  fifth  appears  to  be  rising  impatiently  from  his  seat.  In  the 
hackground  is  a  servant  of  the  guild.  Notwithstanding  the  simplicity  of 
the  colours,  the  prevailing  brown  hue  of  the  picture,  and  tlie  absence 
of  strong  light,  the  master  has  succeeded  in  producing  what  may  be 
termed  his  usual  poetry  of  colour,  combined  with  the  most  life-like 
lidelity.  Compared  with  these  heads,  the  neighbouring  portraits  appear 
cold  and  lifeless.     Comp.  also  p.  Iv. 

672.  Honihorst,  William  II.  of  Orange;  923.  M.  Mierevelt,  Stadt- 
holder  Maurice  of  Orange;  568.  Dutch  School,  Amalia  van  Solms, 
■wife  of  Fred.  Henry  of  Orange  (see  above);  *981.  P.  Moreelse.  So- 
phia Hedwlg  of  Brunswick  (see  below);  680.  Honthorst,  Princes 
William  the  Silent,  Maurice,  Fred.  Henry,  William  II.,  and  Wil- 
liam III.  (when  a  child);  1520.  Van  de  Venne,  Prince  Maurice  of 
Orange,  Frederick  V.  of  the  Palatinate,  and  other  Orange  princes; 
1582.  J.  Volleven  the  Elder,  William  III.  of  England;  386.  W.  de 
Geest,  Sophie  Hedwig  of  Brunswick,  wife  of  Count  Ernest  Casi- 
mir of  Nassau;  385.  W.  de  Geest,  Count  Ernest  Casimir;  673. 
Honihorst,  Prince  Frederick  Henry  of  Orange,  with  his  wife  and 
three  daughters;  675.  Honihorst,  Prince  William  II.  of  Orange 
and  his  wife,  Mary  of  England;  674.  Honihorst,  Frederick  William, 
the  Great  Elector  of  Brandenburg,  and  his  wife,  Louisa  Henrietta 
of  Orange;  366.  G.  Flinch,  Princess  Amalia  of  Solms  (see  above); 
25.  J.  Aved,  Stadtholder  Prince  William  IV.  (1751);  644.  Dutch 
School  (18th  cent.),  Frederick  the  Great  of  Prussia;  1671.  J.  G. 
Zicsenis,  Stadtholder  William  V.  of  Orange;  1142.  F.  Pourbus  the 
Younger,  Maria  de' Medici ;  1629.  Copy  of  Rocker  van  derWeyden('^), 
Charles  the  Bold  (?)  ;  1337.  Jacqueline  of  Bavaria  (a  copy);  1336. 
Johanna  of  Castile  (id.);  125.//.  Bloemaert,  Portrait;  no  number.  Fle- 
mish School,  Henri  IV,  of  France,  1592.  —  The  room  also  contains 
numerous  portraits  of  members  of  Dutch  patrician  families,  including 
specimens  of  Lod.  van  der  Heist  (486),  P.  van  Anrnadt  (8,  9),  J. 
Verspronck  (1544),  J.  G.  Cuyp  ('258),  and  J.  Delff  (266).  Also, 
1444.  Troost,  Eight  managers  of  the  Amsterdam  Orphanage;  925. 
M.  Mierevelt,  Joh.  van  Oldenbarneveld,  and  978.  Moreelse,  Maria 
van  Utrecht,  his  wife;  no  number.  Unknown  Master,  Study  of  a 
head;  363.  G.  FUnck,  Vondel  the  poet  (p.  334);  no  number,  H.  San- 
ders, Portrait;  1446.  Troost,  Ijispectors  of  the  College  of  Medicine. 

The  live  rooms  adjoining  the  Portrait  Room  on  the  left  contain  — 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42.  Route.     327 

Dutch  Cabinet  Pieces,  a  series  of  small  pictures,  many  of  which 
are  executed  with  the  greatest  delicacy.  The  following  are  the 
most  important: 

Cabinet  1.  (219).  To  the  left,  1259.  P.  Saenredam,  Church- 
interior;  929.  Mierevelt,  Portrait;  1258.  Saenredam,  Church  inte- 
rior: 762.  Th.  de  Keyser ,  Family  group;  502.  P.  van  Hilligacrt, 
Prince  Maurice  setting  out  for  the  chase;  976.  F.  de  Momper,  The 
Valkenhof  at  Nymegen;  204.  A.  Brouwer ,  Boors  brawling;  927. 
Mierevelt,  Elector-Palatine  Frederick  V.,  the  'Winter  King" ;  888. 
N.  Maes.  Portrait;  1558,  1559.  D.  Vinckboons,  Military  life;  59.  B. 
van  Bassen,  Domestic  interior  (18th  cent.),  with  figures  by  E.  van 
de  Velde;  203.  A.  Brouwer,  Rustic  orgy. 

Cabinet  2.  (218).  To  the  left,  909.  G.  Metsu,  Old  woman  medi- 
tating; 1484.  A.  van  de  Velde,  The  ferry;  1287.  Roelandt  Savery, 
Orpheus  playing  to  the  animals;  792.  S.  Koninck,  The  old  scholar; 
957.  F.  van  Mieria  the  Younger,  The  hermit;  982.  P.  Moreelse, 
Elector-Palatine  Frederick  V.,  King  of  Bohemia;  1521.  Adrian  van 
de  Venne,  The  fishers  of  souls,  a  satirical  composition  with  nume- 
rous figures,  Roman  Catholic  priests  and  Protestant  pastors  fishing 
from  boats;  among  the  figures  are  portraits  of  Archduke  Albert, 
his  wife  Isabella,  and  others.  1019.  C.  Netscher,  Portrait  of  Cou- 
stautin  Huygens.  the  poet;  *1228.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  The  chateau  of 
Bentheim;  1526.  A.  van  de  Venne.  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange  lying 
instate;  1121.  C.  van  Poelenburg ,  Nymphs  surprised;  1650.  Ph. 
Wouverman.  Stag-hunt;  1267.  H.  Saftleven,  Village  on  a  river; 
303.  C.  Dusart,  Village-tavern;  232.  Pieter  Claesz  van  Haerlem, 
Still-life;  1071.  A.  van  Ostade.  Rest. 

Cabinet  3.  (217).  To  the  left,  257.  B.  Cuyp ,  Joseph  inter- 
preting the  dreams;  1374.  J.Steen,  The  charwoman  ;  1135.  P.Potter, 
Shepherd's  hut;  1251,  Rembrandt,  Woman  at  a  hrook;  277.  G. 
Dou,  The  hermit;  1070.  A.  van  Ostade,  Artist  in  his  studio;  682. 
P.  de  Hooch,  The  cellar;  1652.  P.  Wouvermann,  Hawking;  183.  A. 
vanBreen,  View  of  the  Vyverberg  at  the  Hague,  with  Prince  Mau- 
rice and  his  suite  in  the  foreground;  1256.  P.  Saenredam,  Church- 
interior  at  Haarlem;  1018.  Eglon  van  der  Neer,  Tobias  and  the 
angel;  1074.  A.  vayi  Ostade,  Merry  peasant;  1649.  Ph.  Wouverman, 
Landscape;  *279.  Dou,  Man  and  woman,  in  a  landscape  by  N.Ber- 
cliem;  the  heads  arc  wonderfully  life-like,  particularly  the  man's. 
*1371.  J.  Steen,  Oostwaard,  Master  of  the  Bakers'  Guild,  and  his 
wife;  101.  G.  Berck-Heyde,  The  Dam  in  Amsterdam;  278.  G.Dou, 
Young  girl  at  a  window  with  a  lamp  in  her  hand;  979.  P. Moreelse, 
The  beautiful  shepherdess;  *1367.  J.Steen,  The  parrot-cage,  some- 
times called  the  'backgammon-player'. 

Cabinet  4.  (216).  To  the  left,  162.  J.  Both,  Italian  land- 
scape ;  *743.  W.  Kalff.  Dish  of  oranges  and  lemons;  *443.  F.  Hals, 
The  jovial  toper,  a  very  characteristic  study ;  *460.  J.  de  Heem, 
Still-life,  fruit;  i^l.Brekelenkam,  The  hearth-corner;  907.  G.  Metsu, 


328     Koutt  42.  AMSTERDAM.  liyks  Mmeum. 

The  breakfast;  22.  J.  van  Assen,  Portrait;  1120.  C.  van  Poelen- 
bury ,  Expulsion  from  Paradise;  1015.  A.  van  der  Neer,  Winter- 
scene;  429.  J.  Hackaert,  The  ash-walk;  no  number,  Em.  de  Witte, 
Chuffni-iuterior;  300.  C.  Dusart,  Village  musicians;  1663.  J.  Wy- 
nants^  Landscape  in  the  Dunes. 

Caijinet  5.  (215)  contains  the  lep;acy  of  lUron  J.  de  Wittc  van 
Citters,  consisting  chiefly  of  family  portraits,  many  of  the  painters 
of  which  are  unknown.  To  the  left:  317,  318.  PhiL.  van  J)yk,  Por- 
traits; 931,  932.  M.  van  Mierevelt,  I'.urgomaster  van  l^eresteyn  of 
Delft  and  his  wife;  393.  Geldorp  (iortzius,  Portrait;  323,  322.  Ph. 
van  Dyk,  Portraits;  1296,  1297.  G.  Schalcken,  Portraits;  395,  396. 
Geldorp  Gortzius,  Portraits;  1140.  F.  Pourbus  the  Eider,  Portrait. 

Passing  through  the  vcstibule(p.  318),  we  now  reach  the  western 
half  of  the  first  floor,  and  enter  the  first  of  the  five  W.  Cabinets. 

Cabinet  6.  (274)  contains  a  collection  of  crayons  by  the  Gcn- 
evese  painter  J,  J.  E.  Liotard  (d.  1789),  presented  to  the  Mu- 
seum by  Mile.  J.  A.  Liotard,  nnd  also  nine  crayon-portraits  by 
Tischbcin  (d.  1812).  —  To  the  left:  J.  F.  A.  Tischbein,  1423. 
Princess  Augusta  Maria  Caroline  of  Orange;  1425.  Hereditary 
Prince  AVilliam  Frederick  (aftt-rwards  King  William  I.);  1421. 
Prince  AVilliam  V.;  1422.  Frederica  Sophia  Wilhclmina,  his  wife; 
1426.  Frederica  Louisa  AVilhelmina  of  Prussia,  wife  of  William  I. ; 
1429.  Isabella  of  Nassau-Weil  burg;  1424.  Charles  Christian  of 
Nassau- Weilburg;  1427.  Prince  AVilliam  George  Frederick  of 
Orange;  1428.  Frederica  Louisa  AVilhelmina  of  Orange,  wife  of  the 
Hereditary  Prince  of  Brunswick.  Liotard^  851.  Empress  Maria 
Theresa  of  Austria;  857.  Maria  Josephine  of  Saxony,  Dauphiness 
of  France;  861.  Lady  Mary  Coventry,  in  Turkish  dress;  856. 
Louis  of  Bourbon,  son  of  Louis  XV.  of  France;  868.  Emperor 
Joseph  II.;  *860.  Empress  Maria  Theresa  (enamelled  on  copper); 
867.  Archduke  Maximilian  of  Austria;  862.  Duchess  of  Marl- 
borough. 

Cahinet  7.  (273).  To  the  left,  1648.  Ph.  Wouverman,  The 
shying  horse;  88.  N.  Berchem,  Winter-scene;  1077.  J.  van  Ostade, 
A'illage  tavern;  980.  P.  Moreelse,  The  little  princess;  Ph.  Wouver- 
man, 1054.  The  horse-pond,  1645.  Brawling  peasants;  1294.  G. 
Schalcken,  Fire  and  candle-light  effect;  658.  Uondecoeter ,  Dead 
birds;  1119,  1118.  C.  van  Poelenburg,  Bathers;  *908.  G.  Metsu, 
The  old  toper,  excellently  painted  and  very  well  preserved;  *1366. 
J.  Steen,  Eve  of  St.  Nicholas,  a  favourite  and  often  repeated  subject 
of  the  painter;  949.  F.vanMieris  the  Elder,  Correspondence;  1293. 
Schalcken,  The  smoker;  *1370.  J.  Steen,  The  quack,  full  of  comic 
incident,  hastily  but  cleverly  executed;  1020.  C.Netscher,  Motherly 
care;  *1413.  Gerard  Terburg,  Paternal  advice,  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated pictures  of  the  master,  but  unfortunately  somewhat  damaged 
(replicas  at  London  and  Berlin);  1368.  J. -Sicm,  Peasants' wedding; 
1646.  Ph.  Wouverman,  The  triumphant  peasants. 


Ryks  Muieum.  AM8TEUDAM.  J-J.  Routt.     329 

Cawnet  8.  (272)  chiefly  contains  portraits  by  Dutch  masters, 
amongst  which  are  many  portraits  of  artists  by  themselves.  To  the 
left:  381.  J.  van  6'ecf,  Portrait  of  himself ;  223.  G.  Camphuysen^ 
1581.  H.  van  VoUenhoven.  133.  F.  Bol,  1614.  A.  van  der  Werff, 
no  number,  *Kar€l  dii  Jardin ,  681.  P.  de  Hooch,  Portraits  of  the 
artists  by  themselves;  777.  G.  Kneller,  Portrait  of  the  artist  C  dc 
Bruyn;  1364.  J.  Steen,  Portrait  of  himself;  134.  F.  Bol,  Portrait 
of  the  sculptor  A.  (^)uellinus;  no  nimiber,  P.  Moreelse,  Portrait  of 
himself;  1447.  Corn.  Troost,  1160.  J.  M.  Quincklutrd,  Portraits  of 
the  artists  by  themselves  (the  latter  also  with  a  portrait  of  Ploos  van 
Amstel,  the  patron  of  art). 

Cabinbt  9.  (271).  To  the  left,  1341.  P.  van  Slingeland,  The 
singing-lesson;  1653.  Ph.  Wouverman,  The  forge;  *27'6.  G.  Dou, 
Evening -school,  celebrated  for  the  effects  of  light  and  shade  pro- 
duced by  four  candles  and  their  different  shadows  (purchased  in 
1808  for  17,500  fl.);  146.  1).  Boone,  Peasants  playing  cards;  301. 
C.  Dusart ,  Fish -market;  1369.  Jan  Sleen ,  The  joyful  return, 
(r.  Schalcken,  *1295.  'Tastes  differ',  young  man  lighting  his  pipe, 
and  another  joking  with  a  girl;  *1292.  'Tastes  differ',  one  boy 
eating  an  egg,  another  porridge,  and  an  old  man  in  night-cap  and 
spectacles  looking  on.  950.  F.  van Mieris  the  Eider,  The  lute-player; 
494.  J.  van  der  Heyden,  Dutch  city-canal;  A.  vanderWerff,  1618. 
The  dancing-lesson,  1616.  Holy  Family;  W.van  de  Velde  the  Youn- 
ger, 1510.  Harbour,  1512.  Rough  sea,  1511.  Calm. 

Cawnkt  10.  (270).  To  the  left,  1080,  1081.  J.  Ouwater,  The 
Nieuwe  Kerk  and  St.  Anthonieswaag  in  Amsterdam;  145.  B.  Bolo- 
mey,  Allegorical  portrait  of  Princess  Frederica  Sophia  Wilhelmina, 
wife  of  the  Stadtholder  William  V.;  520.  G.  Hoet,  Marriage  of 
Alexander  the  Great  and  Roxana;  1152,  1153.  Quinckhard,  Por- 
traits; 1'200,  1199.  J.  C.  Rietschoof,  Rough  sea.  Calm. 

The  Pavilion  Room  (268),  straight  on,  was  originally  intended 
for  purposes  of  study.  To  the  left:  no  number,  H.  Heerschop, 
Eleazar  and  Rebecca;  1203.  J.  dela  Roquette,  Portrait  ofagentleman 
in  Indian  costume;  29.  A.Bucker,  Seven  inspei-tors of  the  Collegium 
Modicum  at  Amsterdam  (1683);  1636.  J.  de  Witt,  Allegory  of  science. 
Opposite,  657.  G.  d'Hondecoeter,  Waterfowl.  Farther  on,  beyond 
the  partitions,  are  thirty-live  portraits,  chiefly  of  the  family  Van 
de  Poll  (presented  by  Baron  J.  8.  H.  van  dc  Poll,  see  p.  324): 
889,  890.  N.  Maes,  Portraits;  1157.  Quinckhard,  Portrait;  several 
portraits  by  unknown  masters;  to  the  left,  at  the  window,  121.  D. 
BLeker,  Repentant  Magdalene.  In  the  middle  of  the  room,  on  a 
stand:  A.  Cuyp,  Wine-growing  (painted  on  both  sides  of  a  copper 
plaque,  originally  a  sign-board).  On  the  second  partition  to  the 
left:  151.  A.  Poonen,' 1620.  A.  van  der  Werff,  1430.  Tischhein, 
1545.  J.  C.  Verspronck,  Portraits ;  *445,  *446.  P.  Hals,  Portraits  of 
Nicholas  Hasselaer  (?)  and  his  wife;  1590,  1591.  C.  van  der  Voort, 
Portraits  of  Dirck  Hasselaer  and  his  wife;   1253.  School  of  Rem- 


330     Route  t'J.  AMSTERDAM.  Ryk»  Museum. 

brandt,  Portrait;  933,  934.  M.  van  Mierevelt,  Portraits  of  Hcndrik 
Uooft  and  liis  wile;  479.  B.  van  der  Helat,  J'oitrait  of  J.  Trip.  — 
Then  to  tho  left,  farther  on :  38.  J.  de  Baen,  Regents  and  lady- 
managers  of  the  workhouse,  1684;  341.  N.  ELias,  no  nnmhcr,  N. 
Verkolje,  Portraits:  1285,  1286.  Direk  Santvoort,  Portrait  of  Fred. 
Alewyn  and  his  wife;  1493.  E.  van  de  Velde,  Dutch  landscape  ;  10. 
P.  van  Anraadt.,  Six  regentsof  the  lluiszitt(3nhins,  with  their  beadle; 
1217,  J.vftnRossum,  Portrait;  A.Boonen,  147.  Six  presidents  of  the 
Huiszittenhuis,  148.  Four  superintendents  of  tlie  lionse  of  correction 
with  a  beadle;  *1151.  P.  Quast,  Card-players  ;  1248.  School  of  Rem- 
hrandt^  Study  of  a  liead;  1591a.  C.  van  der  Voort,  Portrait. 

In  this  room   is  the,  entrance    to    the  Restaurant   (cold  refreshments). 

We  now  pass  through  the  door  to  the  left  into  Room  269, 
which  contains  the  *Mus]a-M  van  dee.  Hoop,  bequeathed  to  the  city  by 
\iQXx  Adrian  van  der  Hoop  {^\ASb^')  and  his  widow  (j\.  1880). —  To  the 
left:  *1223.  Rubens,  Portrait  of  Helena  Fourment,  the  artist's  second 
wife;  585.  Dutch  or  Flemish  School  (about  1625),  Nobleman  on 
horseback ;  1410.  D.  Teniers  the  Younger,  Dice-players ;  *308.  A. 
van  Byck,  Portrait  of  Joli.  Bapt.  Franck,  an  excellent  j^icture  in  the 
painter's  early  manner;  973.  J.  M.  Molenaer,  Grace  before  meat; 
1489.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Landscape  with  cattle;  1075.  A.  van  Ostade^ 
Peasants;  1078.  Is.  van  Ostade,  Village  inn,  1633;  *447,  F.  Hals, 
Old  woman  sitting,  a  three-quarter  length,  1639;  1378.  J.  Sleen, 
Peasant  family;  1076.  A.  van  Ostade,  Confidential  conversation; 
*507.  M.  Hobbema,  The  water-mill,  similar  to  the  celebrated  picture 
in  the  Hertford  Gallery  in  London;  1139.  P.  Potter,  Cattle  in  a 
meadow;  953.  F.  van  Mieris,  The  escaped  bird;  126.  H.  Bloemaert, 
Tho  egg-woman ;  281.  O.  Dou,  The  lisherman's  wife ;  above,  668.  M. 
d'Hondecoeter,  Poultry.  —  *1252.  Rembrandt,  The  so-called  'Jewish 
r>ride';  an  old  man  approaches  a  young  and  richly-adorned  woman 
as  if  about  to  embrace  her;  the  male  figure  and  the  background  are 
unfinished  (1662).  —  1234.  J.  van.  iJi/t/sf/aei,  Norwegian  landscape, 
with  a  waterfall;  683.  P.  de  Hooch,  Interior;  687.  P.  de  Hooch  (t) 
Miisical  party;  141.  F.  Bol,  Regents  of  the  Uuiszittenhuis ;  *1376. 
J.  Steen,  Merry  household  ('As  the  old  sing,  the  young  squeak'), 
1668;  731.  A'.  duJardin,  Landscape;  *163.  J.  Both,  Artists  studying 
nature  (large  landscape  with  a  waterfall).  —  *1377.  Jan  Steen,  Sick 
girl  and  physician;  one  of  Stecn's  most  charming  and  perfect  works, 
recalling  the  characters  of  Moliere,  beautifully  drawn  and  boldly 
painted. 

*1235.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Forest-scene;  1516.  W.  van  de  Velde 
the  Younger,  Calm  sea;  891.  N.  Maes,  Presidents  of  the  Surgeons' 
Guild  ;  974.  J.  M.  Molenaer,  Lady  playing  the  pianoforte;  1556.  J. 
Fidors,  The  dentist;  956.  W.  van  Mieris,  Lady  and  gentleman; 
1610.  J.  Weenix,  Game  and  fruit;  105.  G.  Berck-Heyde,  View  in 
Amsterdam ;  480.  B.  van  der  Heist,  Portrait ;  192.  Brekelenkam, 
Mother  and  child;    692.    Hooystratcn,  The  invalid;  *1233.  J.  van 


Ryks  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  rj.  Route.     331 

Ruysdael,  River-scene  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Wylc-hy-Duurstede ; 
1639.  Ein.  de  Witte,  Church-interior;  686.  P.  de  Hooch,  Scene  in 
front  of  an  inn  ;  1515.  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger,  Firing  a  cannon, 
sea-piece;  812.  J.  A.  Kruseman,  Portrait  of  Adr.  van  der  Hoop, 
founder  of  the  collection  ;  1224.  fiw&ms,  Portrait  of  Queen  Anna  Maria 
of  France,  wife  of  Louis  XIII.;  95.  N.  Berchem,  Italian  landscape; 
1517.  W.  va7i  de  Velde  the  Younger,  Rough  sea;  1408.  Tenters  the 
Younger,  Village-festival ;  693.  A.  Houbraken,  Studio  ;  256.  A.  Cuyp, 
View  of  Dordrecht;  104.  G.  Berck-Heyde,  The  Dam  at  Amsterdam; 
1409.  Teniers  the  Younger,  In  the  country;  1169.  J.  van  Ravesteyn, 
Hugo  Grotius,  when  a  young  man ;  1619.  A.  van  der  Werff,  The  lovers ; 
1380.  Jan  Steen,  Topers;  Ph.  Wouverman,  1655,  Horse- pond, 
1657.  Landscape  with  h'orses;  1349.  //.  M.Sorgh,  Fish-market;  684. 
P.  de  Hooch,  Interior;  *892.  A".  Maes,  Old  woman  spinning;  164. 
J.  Both,  Italian  landscape;  1619a.  A.van  der  Wgr/f,  Soap-bubbles ; 
1232.  J.  van  Ruysdael,  Landscape ;  988.  F.  de  Moucheron,  Italian 
landscape  ;  144.  F.  Bol,  A  naval  hero. 

*1379.  Jan  Steen,  Drunken  roisterers,  a  coarse  but  clover  re- 
presentation of  a  carousal,  which  is  not  without  its  moral. 

While  the  ^'entleman  and  lady  are  sacrilicing  to  Bacchus  and  Venus, 
the  musicians  slip  contemptuously  out  of  the  room  and  a  woman  steals 
a  cloak.  Over  the  head  of  the  drunken  old  man  is  seen  the  picture  of 
an  owl  with  candles  and  spectacles,  with  the  microscopically  minute  in- 
scription :  — 

•Wat  baeten  kaers  of  Bril, 
Als  den  "Uil  niet  sien  wil?' 

(Of  what  use  are  candles  or   spectacles,  when  the  owl  will  not  see?). 

1670,  1669.  J.  Wynants,  Landscapes;  *120.  Adrian  van  Utrecht, 
»Still-]ife;  1017.  A.  van  der  Neer,  Landscape;  1656.  Ph.  Wouver- 
man, Camp.  *282.  G.  Dou,  Hermit,  a  masterpiece  of  miniature 
painting ;  we  can  almost  count  the  hairs  and  wrinkles  of  the  hermit 
in  this  little  picture,  only  1  ft.  high.  1027.  C.  Netscher,  Queen  Mary  of 
England,  wife  of  William  III.;  1016.  A.  van  der  Neer,  Winter- 
scene  with  skaters  (daylight);  *1487.  A.  van  de  Velde,  Landscape, 
the  painter  with  his  wife  and  children  in  the  foreground,  and  a 
waggon,  shepherd,  and  flock  in  the  background,  in  beautiful  evening- 
light,  probably  the  master's  finest  work  (1667) ;  *910.  G.  Metsu, 
The  sportsman's  booty,  a  room  with  a  lady  in  a  red  velvet  dress  and 
a  gentleman  just  returned  from  the  chase ;  100.  J.  Berck-Heyde, 
Church-interior. 

Farther  on  are  a  few  modern  pictures  which  also  belong  to  the 
Van  der  Hoop  collection:  1298.  A.  Schelfhout,  Landscape  near  Haar- 
lem; 218.  A.  Calame,  Italian  landscape;  1315.  J.  C.  Schotel,  Calm 
sea;  779.  Henrietta  Ronner-Knip,  Cat  and  kittens;  227.  H.  O.  ten 
Kate,  Town-scene  by  moonlight;  1314.  Schotel,  Rough  sea. 

The  W.  exit  from  the  Museum  van  der  Hoop  leads  to  the  — 

Rooms  of  the  Modern  Masters.  —  In  the  passage  (No.  265) 
are  an  Interior  (18th  cent.)  by  Leys  (No.  834)  and  a  statue  of  Per- 
seus, in  marble,  by  Ferd.  Leenhoff. 


332     Route  ilK  AMSTERDAM.  /I'yfc.s  Mmeum. 

Room  No.  203.  To  the  left,  several  portraits,  includiiip:  1107.  N. 
Pienemnn.  —  To  tlic  rijjht,  Alma  Tadema,  Stndy  of  o  lieaii ;  Jamin^ 
Death-chaTTilicr;  Verlat^  Boar-flght;  129.  B.  J.  Blommers^  Tlie  Knit- 
ter; 398.  n.  te  Gempt,  St.  Bernard  dop;  *1B28.  Therese  Schwnrtze, 
Three  orphan-girls;  503.  E.  A.  Hilverdink^  The  Singel  at  Amster- 
dam; no  number,  Delft  plate  with  a  portrait  of  King  William  III. ; 
185.  0.  H.  Breitner,  Mounted  artillery  in  the  Dunes;  1637.  E.  8. 
Witkamp  the  Younger,  In  the  field;  455.  //.  J.  Hnvermnn,  Flight. 

RooAi  No.  262.  To  the  right,  1543.  W.  Verschuur,  Ilorse-mar- 
ket;  119.  J.  W.  Bilders.  Landscape;  120.  C.  Bisschop,  Winter  In 
Friefland;  1205.  W.  Roelofs,  Landscape;  712.  Jos.  Israels,  Margaret 
of  Parma  and  AVilliam  the  Silent  of  Orange;  1470.  //.  Vnlkenburg, 
A  proposal  of  marriage;  874a.  Lingeman,  Armourer;  52.  J.  J.  x^an 
de  Sande-Bakhuyzen,  Landscape  at  sunset;  428.  J.  H.  L.  de  Haas, 
Cattle  at  pasture ;  1255.  Phil.  Sadee,  Return  from  the  fish-auction ; 
*711.  Jos.  Israels,  Passing  the  churchyard  ;  no  numhcr,  *Mcsdag, 
Sunset  by  the  sea;  230.  Jaroslav  Cermak,  Montenegrin  refugees; 
904.  A.  Mauve,  Shepherd  and  flock;  219.  A.  Calame,  Lake  of  Lu- 
cerne; no  number,  Demont-Breton,  Fisher-woman;  1593.  Maria  Vos, 
Still-life;  269.  F.  Diday,  The Lauterbrunnen  valley.  In  the  middle 
of  the  room  is  a  marble  bust  of  the  painter  Ch.  Rochussen. 

Room  No.  261.  To  the  right,  415.  P.  F.  Greive,  Dutch  maid- 
servant; *14.  L.  F.  U.  Apol,  Dutch  river-scene  in  winter;  1613.  J. 
Weissenhruch,  View  of  a  town;  73.  J.  van  Beers,  Burial  of  Charles 
the  Good,  Count  of  Flanders,  1127;  118.  J.  W.  Bilders,  Dutch 
landscape;  1359.  C.  Springer,  Town  Hall  of  Cologne;  no  number, 
Israels,  Dealer  in  antiquities;  397.  Gempt,  Congress  of  Paris;  1329. 
Ther.  Schwartze,  Girl  meditating;  156.  J.  Boshoom.  Parish-church 
of  Edam;  1270.  S.  Saint- Jean,  Flowers;  773.  J.  C.  K.  Klinkenherg, 
Episode  during  the  siege  of  Leyden;  *1330.  Th.  Schvartze,  Mother 
and  child;  1439.  H.  A.  van  Trigt,  Norwegian  women  bringing 
their  children  to  be  baptised;  123.  D.  Bles,  Victorious  Holland ; 
1008.  W.  C.  Nakken,  Norman  horses  in  winter;  462.  Heemskerck 
van  Beest,  The  Y  at  Amsterdam ;  no  number,  B.  Constant,  Theodora, 
wife  of  Justinian  I.  —  In  the  middle  of  the  room  is  a  marble  bust 
of  the  painter  F.  Bosboom. 

Room  No.  260.  Pictures  from  [the  Pavilion  at  Haarlem.  —  To 
the  right,  1218.  (i.  A.  Roth,  Bentheim  Forest;  18.  A.  Asselbergs, 
Sunrise ;  1317.  Schotel,  On  the  beach ;  1098.  J.  W.  Piencman,  The 
actress  Johanna  Cornelia  Ziesenis  as  Agrippina;  1031.  P.  J.  Noel, 
Street-scene;  1527.  E.  J.  Verhoeckhoven,  At  pasture;  740.  J.  B.  de 
Jonghe,  Market;  1395.  J.  van  Stry,  Evening  in  the  country;  1056. 
G.  J.  J.  van  Os,  Dutch  landscape;  194.  J.  Brice,  Fowl-seller;  267. 
E.  Delvaux,  View  on  the  Sambre ;  51.  Van  de  Sande-Bakhuyzen, 
Landscape;  1204.  W.  TJocZo/"^,  Landscape;  782.  J.  /iTo^^e/?,  Land- 
scape; 906.  n.  W.  Mesdag,  Beach  at  Scheveningen ;  1214a.  Mar- 
garetha  Roosenhoom,  Autumn  flowers;  1095.  J.  W,  Pieneman,  Ar- 


Ryk8  Museum.  AMSTERDAM.  42,  Route.     333 

cadian landscape;  1575.  C.J.de  Fo^ci, Autumn ;  517.  Hodges,  Louis 
Napoleon,  King  of  llolland;  154.  J,  W.  Borselen^  Dutch  land- 
scape. In  the  middle  of  the  room  is  an  Ecce  Homo,  in  marble,  by 
L.  Royer. 

Large  Room  (No.  255;  also  pictures  from  the  Pavilion  at  Haar- 
lem). To  the  right,  1635.  A.  H.  Winter,  Sheep  -  stable ;  1106.  J. 
W.  Fieneman,  Portrait  of  himself;  461.  Heemskerck  van  Beest^  Sea- 
piece;  26.  J.  J.  Eeckliout^  Marriage  of  Jacqueline  of  liavaria, 
Countess  of  Holland,  to  Duke  John  IV.  of  Brabant;  1528.  Verboeck- 
hoven,  Landscape  \vith  cattle;  809.  J.  A.  Kruseman,  Elisha  and  the 
Shunammite  woman ;  1358.  C.  Springer,  Town-hall  and  market  at 
Veere;  1612.  J.  Weissenbruch,  Town-gate  at  Leerdam;  1009.  F.J. 
Nnvez,  Awakening  to  life  of  the  Shunammite's  son;  450.  F.  van 
Hanselaere,  The  chaste  Susannah;  1471.  J.  F.  Valois,  City-scene; 
1100.  J.  W.  Fieneman,  Battle  of  Waterloo  (26  ft.  long  and  18  ft. 
high);  780.  Henrietta  Ronner-Knip ,  Three  to  one;  746.  H.  F. 
K.  ten  /Tafe, Guard-room ;  13.  Apol,  A  January  day;  155.  Bosboom, 
The  Church  of  Our  Lady  at  Breda;  991.  L.  Moritz,  Death  of  An- 
toninus Pius;  1438.  H.  A,  van  Triyt,  Divine  service  in  Norway;  50. 
Van  de  Sande-Bakhuyzen,  Flowers  and  fruit;  1122.  F.  J.  Foelman, 
Town-hall  in  Oudenaarde;  427.  J.  H.  L.  de  Haas,  Pearly  morning; 
804.  C.  Kruseman,  Vhili^  II.  of  Spain  leaving  the  Netherlands,  Aug., 
1559;  1310.  J,  H.  Scholten,  Sunday  morning;  *800.  A.  H.  Bakker 
Korff,  Under  the  palm-trees;  881.  J.  B.  L.  Maes,  The  Good  Samar- 
itan; 1551.  F.  Vervloet,  St.  Peter's  at  Rome;  1299.  A.  Schelfhout, 
Dutch  winter-scene  ;  1145.  J.  H.  Frins,  View  in  a  town ;  122.  D.  Bies, 
The  patricide;  1086.  J.  Faelinck,  Psyche  in  Cupid's  palace;  421. 
A.  J.  Haantn,  Fruits;  *15.  D.A.  C.  Artz,  Visit  to  the  grandmother; 
832.  A.  de  Lelie,  Morning-call;  710.  Jos.  Israels,  Alone  in  the  world; 
182.  M.  J.  van  Bree,  Napoleon  entering  Amsterdam  in  1811 ;  1254. 
Sadie,  Potato -gleaners;  831.  C.  H.  J.  Ltickert,  Winter- scene; 
422.  A.  J.  Haanen,  Flowers;  772.  J.  C.  K.  Klinkenherg,  Market 
at  Nymegen;  1529.  Verboeckhoven,  Hungry  wolves;  876.  L>.  van 
Lokhorst,  Sheep  -  stable ;  1164.  J.  van  Ravenswaay,  Cow-house; 
327.  E.  J.  Eelkema,  Flowers;  1059.  M.  M.  van  Os,  Still-life. 

Room  No.  248.  Dutch  Regent  Room  (17th  cent.),  with  a  ceiling 
from  the  old  Lepers'  Hospital  at  Amsterdam,  by  G.  de  Lairesse.  The 
walls  are  covered  with  old  Gobelins  tapestry,  wainscoting,  and  a  few 
regent-pieces  ;  the  furniture  is  of  the  17th  century.  The  chimney- 
piece  is  adorned  with  carving  and  with  marble  busts  of  the  Burgo- 
master Andr.  de  Graeff,  by  A.  Quellinus  (1661),  and  of  Johannes 
Munter,  by  P.  Eggers  (1673).  —  In  the  passage  to  the  next  room 
are  two  marble  medallions  of  Burgomaster  Corn,  de  Graeff  and  his 
wife,  also  by  A.  Quellinus. 

Cahinet  No.  249,  like  the  previous  room,  has  been  fitted  up  by 
the  Society  of  Antiquaries  (Oudheidkundig  Genootschap).  It  is 
upholstered  in  gilt  leather  and  contains  a  number  of  small  curiosi- 


334     Route  42.  AMSTERDAM.  Chnritieg. 

ties,  some  paintings,  and  a  cupboard  with  Dutch  drinking-vessels 
of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries. 

We  now  return  through  the  Rembrandt  Room  and  the  Hall  of 
Honour  (p.  318)  to  the  staircase. 

The  place  behind  the  museum  deserves  a  glance  as  we  leave  the 
latter.  The  garden  is  laid  out  in  the  style  of  a  guild-house  (Doel") 
court  in  the  17th  cent.,  and  contains  reproductions  of  old  Dutch 
buildings  that  have  been  demolished. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Ryks  Museum  lies  the  pleasant  Vondels-Park  (PI. 
C,  6),  which  was  laid  out  about  20  years  ago  and  covers  an  area  of 
75  acres.  On  the  E.  the  park  is  bounded  by  the  Vcrlengde  Vossius- 
straat,  containing  the  new  building  of  the  JB^mdAsyium  (see  below). 
In  the  middle  of  the  extensive  grounds  rises  a  statue,  erected  in 
1867,  ofJoost  van  den  Vondel,  the  most  distinguished  of  Dutch  poets 
(d.  1679).  He  was  born  at  Cologue  in  1587,  and  afterwards  went 
to  Holland  with  his  parents,  who  were  Mennonites.  His  principal 
works  are  tragedies  with  choruses,  one  of  which,  'Gysbrecht  van 
Amstel'  founded  on  the  tradition  of  the  destruction  of  the  city  of 
Amsterdam  in  1296,  is  still  annually  performed.  Near  the  monu- 
ment is  the  Paviljoen  Cafe  (p.  293).  Farther  on  is  the  Melkhuii^, 
a  small  farm  where  fresh  milk  is  sold.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  Ryks 
Museum,  in  Nieuwer  Amstel,  is  the  new  Concert-Gbbouw  (PI.  D, 
6;  see  p.  293),  entered  from  Pieter  Cornelisz  Iloofd-Straat. 

c.    Charitable  Institutions. 

Amsterdam  is  celebrated  for  its  Charitakle  Institutions,  up- 
wards of  a  hundred  in  number,  destined  for  the  reception  of  sick, 
aged,  and  indigent  persons,  lunatics,  foundlings,  widows,  etc.,  and 
all  almost  entirely  supported  by  voluntary  contributions. 

The  Blind  Asylum,  in  the  Verlengde  Vossiusstraat  (Pl.D,  6;  see 
above),  was  founded  in  1808  andisoneofthemostadmirableinstitu- 
tions  of  the  kind.  It  now  contains  50-60  pupils  between  the  ages  of  flvo 
and  eighteen,  whoreceivelessons  in  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  geo- 
graphy, handicrafts,  languages,  and  music.  On  Wednesdays  from 
10  to  12  the  public  are  admitted  while  lessons  are  going  on  —  a  very 
interesting  sight.  Visitors  are  expected  to  buy  some  of  the  articles 
manufactured  by  the  inmates,  or  to  put  a  contribution  into  thecollect- 
ingbox.  —  For  blind  persons  of  a  more  advanced  age  there  is  a  special 
asylum  on  the  Stadhouderskade,  which  has  about  80  inmates. 

The  poor-houses  are  handsome  buildings,  with  excellent  or- 
ganisation ;  as  for  example,  the  Protestant  Asylum  for  the  aged  of 
both  sexes  (PI.  46 ;  F,  4),  on  the  lUnnen- Amstel,  and  the  Hospice 
of  St.  James,  mentioned  at  p.  306.  About  20,000  poor  persons  are 
said  to  be  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  citizens.  Many  of  the 
orphans  educated  at  the  different  Orphanages  wear  picturesque  cos- 
tumes, which  are  seen  to  the  best  advantage  on  Sundays,  especially 
in  the  Kalverstraat.    The  children  generally  appear  to  enjoy  excel- 


?fi 


\  ''is 


5 


-5  'ij-  -.S- 


Excursions.  AMSTERDAM.  4-2.  Route.     335 

lent  health  and  spirits.  —  The  Walloon  Orphanage,  at  the  corner 
of  the  Prinsegracht  and  Vyzelgracht  (Vl.  E,  5)  deserves  a  visit  on 
account  of  the  regent-pieces  by  B.  van  der  Heist,  W.  Vaillant.  A. 
de  Vries,  and  A.  van  den  Tempel. 

The  Maatschappy  tot  Nut  van't  Algemeen  (PI.  45;  E,  3),  or 
Society  for  the  Public  Welfare ,  is  a  very  important  body,  whose 
sphere  of  operations  extends  over  the  whole  kingdom  of  Holland.  It 
was  founded  at  Edam  in  1784  by  Jan  Nieuwenhuyzen,  a  Baptist 
preacher,  but  transferred  to  Amsterdam  in  1787.  Its  object  is  the 
promotion  of  the  education  and  moral  culture  of  the  lower  classes. 
Members  subscribe  5I/4  fl.  annually,  and  eight  or  more  subscribers 
residing  in  a  provincial  town  or  district  constitute  a  sub-committee, 
whose  sphere  of  action  is  called  a  department.  There  are  at  present  326 
such  departments,  comprising  about  16,000  members.  The  principal 
board  of  control  is  at  Amsterdam,  where  the  general  meeting  of  the 
society  takes  place  annually.  The  society  endeavours  to  attain  its  ob- 
jects ( 1 )  by  promoting  the  education  of  the  young,  even  after  they 
have  left  school,  training  teachers,  publishing  school-books  and  edu- 
cational literature,  founding  libraries.  Sunday-schools,  etc.;  (2)by 
promoting  the  enlightenment  and  culture  of  adults,publishing popular 
and  instructive  literature,  instituting  public  lectures,  founding  read- 
ing-rooms, savings-banks  for  widows,  orphans,  etc. ;  (3)  by  bestow- 
ing rewards  and  honours  on  persons  who  have  distinguished  themselves 
by  acts  of  humanity  or  generosity. 

Religion.  The  complete  religious  toleration  which  has  long  pre- 
vailed in  Holland  has  led  to  the  formation  of  numerous  different  Sects.^ 
an  enumeration  of  whose  churches  will  afford  the  best  idea  of  their 
respective  numbers.  The  oldest  and  most  interesting  churches  are  the 
Reformed,  11  in  number,  embellished  with  the  tombs  of  celebrated 
Dutchmen.  The  following  are  also  Protestant  places  of  worship  :  2  Walloon, 
1  English  Episcopalian,  1  English  Presbyterian,  1  'Remonstranf  (a  sect 
without  definite  creed,  but  which  regards  the  Bible  as  its  sole  guide ; 
see  p.  37S),  2  Evangelic  Lutheran  (a  sect  which  professes  to  adhere  to 
the  spirit  rather  than  to  the  letter  of  the  Augsburg  Confession),  1  'Re- 
established Lutheran''  (differing  slightly  from  the  •Reformed'  church), 
1  Baptist,  3  Reformed  Christian,  formerly  named  'Christian  Seceding", 
and  2  others  (ultra-orthodox),  who  left  the  synod  some  years  ago. 
Then  2!J  Roman  Catholic,  including  2  Jansenist  (p.  366).  There  is  also  a 
£^^?</«a(/€(p.302)here  in  the  style  of  those  at  Ghent  and  Bruges  (see  pp. 27. 47), 
which  has  been  in  existence  since  the  14th  cent,  (in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Kalverstraat,  near  No.  18  of  our  plan).  Finally  the  10  Jewish  synagogues 
(p.  307),  and  the  meeting-house  of  the  Free  Brethren,  built  in  1880. 


Excursions  in  the  Environs  of  Amsterdam. 

The  neighbourhood  of  the  Dutch  capital  has  little  to  offer  in 
the  shape  of  picturesque  scenery;  but  most  travellers  will  And 
much  to  interest  them  in  the  extensive  system  of  canals  and 
.sluices  that  has  been  constructed  since  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  to  afford  to  vessels  of  heavy  burden  the  access  denied 
them  by  the  silting  up  of  the  Zuidersee.  Of  no  less  interest  is  the 
other  system  of  sluices  intended  for  purposes  of  defence  and  en- 


336     Route  42.  ZAANDAM.  Exrursions 

abling  the  Dutch  to  place  the  entire  district  under  water  in  case  of 
war.  Amsterdam  forms  the  centre  of  the  national  system  of  de- 
fence, and  plays  in  Holland  the  same  part  that  Antwerp  does  in 
Belgium  (^comp.  p.  138). 

On  a  tongue  of  land  projecting  info  the  Y,  opposite  the  new  Cen- 
tral Station  (steam- ferry ),  stands  the  old  Tolhuis,  or  custom-house, 
where  there  is  a  favourite  Tea  C/arrfenconimauding  an  excellent  view 
of  the  Y  (^concerts,  see  p.  294).  Here  are  the  vast  gates,  called 
the  WiUems-SLuis ,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Noord-IIollandschk  Ka- 
NAAL  which  was  constructed  in  1819-25  by  BLanken,  at  a  cost  of 
about  S  million  florins.  The  canal  is  130  ft.  broad  and  20  ft.  deep, 
and  its  level  at  Buiksloot  (l'/4M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Tolhuis)  is  10  ft. 
below  the  average  level  of  the  sea  at  half-  tide.  It  extends  across 
the  entire  province  of  North  Holland  from  Amsterdam  to  the  Htlder, 
a  distance  of  46  M.  (p.  341). 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  to  Zaandam,  either  by  railway 
(p.  339)  or  by  the  steamer  ('Alkmaar  Packet'),  which  sails  from  the 
Westerhoofd  on  the  Prins-Hendrik-Kade  (PI.  D,  2)  about  ten  times 
daily,  and  makes  the  journey  in  '^j/^  hr.  (return-fare,  30  c.  or  20  c). 

Zaandam  (^HoteL  de  Zon,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  IV2'  pens.  31/2  A- 5 
yf e\l spoken o( ;* Cnfe-Restdiirant Suisse,  atthe harbour,  dear),  some- 
times erroneously  called  Saardnm,  a  town  with  13,000  inhab., 
many  of  whom  are  said  to  be  millionnaires,  situated  at  the  influxof 
the  Znan  into  the  Y,  is  a  thriviug  place,  thoroughly  Dutch  in  ap- 
pearance. The  small  houses,  which  are  almost  all  of  one  or  two 
storiesonly,  are  built  of  wood  or  brick  painted  greeji  orred,  andsur- 
rounded  by  gardens.  Along  the  bank  of  the  Zaan  as  far  as  the  villages 
of  Zarindyk,  Koog^  WoTmerveer,  and /Trom/nen/e  (see  p.  339),  extend 
about  four  hundred  wiiulmills.  They  are  used  for  many  dilVerent 
purposes,  and  comprise  oil,  saw,  com,  paint,  cement,  and  paper- 
mills  (comp.  p.  xxviii).  The  Zannland  is  almost  literally  a  forest 
of  wind-mills.  A  pleasant  drive  (carr.  at  llooft's,  Westzyde  133  ; 
14  n.)  may  be  taken  to  liroek  and  Buiksloot  (p.  338). 

The  Hut  ok  Pktek  the  Gkeat  is  the  principal  curictsity  at  Zaandam 
(guide,  unnecessary,  10  c. ;  visitors  arriving  by  steamer  must  cross  t(t  the 
W.  bank).  We  follow  the  road  rtmning  towards  the  S.  along  the  harbour, 
and  leading  to  the  '■Logement  of  the  Czar  Peter\  a  small  tavern,  where  it 
descends  a  few  steps  into  a  narrow  street;  we  then  cross  a  bridge,  and 
12U  paces  farther  un  reach  a  court-yard  in  which  the  hut  (25  c.)  is  situated. 
It  is  a  rude  wooden  structure,  now  protected  by  a  roof  supported  by 
pillars  of  brick.  It  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Czar  Peter  in  1697, 
while  he  worked  as  a  ship-carpenter  in  the  building  yard  of  Mynheer  Kulf. 
The  tradition  is  that  he  arrived  here  in  the  dress  of  a  common  workman, 
under  the  name  of  Peter  Michaelof^  and  long  escaped  recognition;  but  the 
truth  is  that  Peter  only  remained  here  about  a  week,  for  he  was  unable 
long  to  preserve  his  incognito,  and  being  incessantly  beset  by  crowds  of 
inquisitive  idlers,  he  preferred  to  return  to  Amsterdam.  —  The  hut  be- 
longs to  the  Czar  of  Russia,    to  whom  it  was  presented    a  few  years  ago. 

To  reach  the  (yoM.)  station  from  the  harbour  we  proceed  towards 
the  W.  in  the  direction  of  the  Zaan,  taking  the  third  street  on  the 
left,  which  is  planted  with  two  rows  of  young  trees. 


from  Ams^terdam.     NOORDZEE  KANAAL.      4^2.  Route.     337 

As  the  North  Holland  Canal  proved  unable  to  meet  the  growing 
requirements  of  the  shipping  it  was  determined,  in  1862,  to  form 
a  direct  communication  between  Amsterdam  and  the  sea.  The 
shallow  basin  of  the  Y  was  drained  and  its  waters  confined  to  a 
central  canal,  which  here  intersects  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pen- 
insula of  North  Holland ,  called  Holland  op  zyn  smalst.  The 
work  was  begun  in  1865,  and  the  new  Noordzee  Kanaal,  permitting 
the  passage  of  the  most  heavily  laden  merrhautmen,  was  opened 
for  traffic  in  1876.  The  canal  is  about  15  M.  in  length,  65-110 
yds.  in  width,  and  22-26  ft.  in  depth.  Its  level  is  about  20  inches 
below  the  mean  level  of  the  water  at  Amsterdam.  Three  huge 
gates,  completed  in  1872,  one  of  them  24yds.  and  each  of  the 
other  two  12  yds.  in  width,  protect  the  W.  entrance  of  the  canal 
against  the  incursion  of  the  sea.  The  breakwaters  which  shelter  the 
entrance  are  ^/^M.  in  length.  At  the  entrance  are  two  lighthouses. 
The  whole  outlay,  including  the  cost  of  the  protecting  dyke  at  the 
E.  end,  near  the  village  of  Schellingwoude  (see  below),  amounted 
to  35,000,000  fl.,  of  which  6,000,000  fl.  were  contributed  by  the 
city  of  Amsterdam  and  upwards  of  10,000,000  fl.  defrayed  by  the 
sale  of  reclaimed  land  (at  an  average  price  of  1200  fl.  per  acre), 
while  the  remainder  is  borne  by  government  —  Near  the  locks  lies 
Tmniden  (Hotel  Xommer  Een;  Hotel  Willem  Barendsz^  with  cafe'- 
restaurant ),  with  1500  inhab.,  a  place  which  has  sprung  into  exist- 
ence since  the  formation  of  the  canal.  It  is  connected  with  (21/2  M.) 
Velzen  (p.  339)  by  a  short  branch-line. 

Steamboats  ('•DDlphyn',  \Stad  Piirmerend')  ply  2-3  times  daily  from 
Amsterdam  to  Ymuiden  (Sat.  twice  only),  starting  from  the  De  Ruyter-Kade 
(PI.  D,  2)  and  making  the  trip  in  l'/^  hr.  (fares  60,  40  c;  there  and  back 
I  Q.,  60  c.).  Intermediate  stations:  Westzaan,  Buitenhuizen  (Assendelft), 
Velzen. 

In  order  to  protect  the  North  Sea  Canal  from  the  Zuiderzee,  a 
huge  dam,  II/4  M.  in  length,  has  been  constructed  across  the  E. 
mouth  oHheY  3itSchellingwoude.  The  middle  of  this  embankment  is 
broken  by  five  huge  locks,  three  of  them  intended  for  the  passage  of 
vessels,  while  the  two  others  are  used  in  regulating  the  amount  of 
water  in  the  canal.  The  largest  of  them  is  about  110  yds.  in  length, 
22  yds.  in  width,  and  deep  enough  for  vessels  of  very  large  ton- 
nage. Tlie  two  heaviest  of  the  56  ponderous  lock-gates,  22  of  which 
are  constru(;ted  of  iron  and  34  of  wood,  weigh  34  tons  each.  The 
cost  of  the  locks  alone  has  amounted  to  nearly  6  million  florins.  — 
From  theMuiderpoort(Pl.  G,  H,3;p.306;  turning  to  the  left  3  min. 
beyond  the  gate)  we  reach  in  40  min.  the  S.  extremity  of  the  Dam, 
which  leads  us  in  (9  ^r.  to  the  locks.  From  Schellingwoude  to 
Xieuii-endam  (steamboat  to  Amsterdam  6-7  times  daily ;  see  p.  295), 
in  1-2  hr.;  or  to  the  Zeeburg  (p.  295). 

A  very  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  by  the  steam-tramway 
mentioned  at  p.  295  to  Muiden  (Hotel  Badhuis,  on  the  beach;  Re- 
staurant de  la  Hollande),   a  small  town  at  the  influx  of  the  Vecht 

Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  22 


338     Route  4l\  EDAM. 

into  the  Zuiderzee,  7V2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Amstcrdaui,  with  an  ancient 
castle  affording  a  good  view  of  the  Zuiderzee  (fee  25-50  c).  The 
road  skirts  the  Linnaeus  Garden,  with  an  agricultural  and  horti- 
cultural school,  and  then  proceeds  past  the  Wateryraafmneer  Polder, 
and  the  village  of  Diemerbrug.  Beyond  Muiden  the  tramway  forks, 
the  branch  to  the  left  leading  to  tlie  small  watering-place  of  Muider- 
berg  {Badhotel ;  famous  echo),  tliat  to  the  right  to  Naarden  (p.  346) 
and  Hiioersum  (p.  346).  Between  the  last  two  we  stop  at  Jan 
Tabak  (Restaurant,  in  a  pretty  wood),  Larenberg  (view-tower  and 
view  of  the  Zuiderzee),  and  Laren,  from  which  a  branch-line  runs 
to  tlie  fishing-village  of  Huizen,  on  the  Zuiderzee.  From  Hilversum 
we  may  return  to  Amsterdam  by  railway  (express  in  ^2^^.). 

A  steamer  sails  4-5  times  a  day  for  Edam,  starting  from  the 
De  Iluyter-Kade  (fares  35  and  30  c,  return-fare  60  or  40  c),  and 
calling  at  Broek  and  Monnikendam.  A  steam-tramway  also  runs 
to  Edam  in  about  II/2  hr. ,  starting  from  the  Damrak  (p.  299).  — 
Stations :  Buiksloot  (p.  336 ),  Zunderdorp,  Schouiv.  Then  liroek^ 
in  the  Waterland,  a  village  known  for  its  almost  exaggerated  clean- 
liness. The  cliurch  has  a  pulpit  of  1685.  Monnikendam  has  some 
picturesque  old  houses  (17th  cent.)  andaStadhuis  tower  of  1591-92. 
The  choir-screen  in  the  church  dates  from  1562-63.  From  Mon- 
nikendam we  may  cross  by  a  flshing-boat  (3  11.  ;  for  a  party  1  fl. 
each )  toMarken  (see below).  — Bia.va.( Dam  Hotel;  UeerenlogementJ, 
which  is  famous  for  its  cheese  and  gives  its  name  to  the  cheese  of 
the  whole  district,  has  some  interesting  brick  buildings  of  the  17th 
century.  The  Stadhuis  contains  a  few  paintings.  A  steamer  plies 
several  times  a  day  from  Edam  to  Purmerend  (p.  342)  in  1-1^/4  hr. 
(fares  25,  15  c).  —  The  costumes  of  the  flsherfolk  at  Volendam, 
V/2  M.   to  the  E.  of  Edam,  are  particularly  well  seen  on  Sundays. 

Excursion -steamers  ply  almost  every  Sun.  in  summer  from 
Amsterdam  to  the  island  of  Marken  in  the  Zuiderzee,  leaving  Am- 
sterdam (De  Ruytcr-Kade)  at  10.15  a.m.  and  returning  from  Marken 
at  4  p.m.  (return-fare  1  fl.).  The  island  is  inhabited  almost  ex- 
clusively by  fishermen,  whose  costumes,  manners,  and  liouses  retain 
much  that  is  peculiar  and  interesting. 

An  excursion  may  also  be  made  to  Soestdyk  (see  p.  366;  train  in 
3/4  hr.  to  Baam,  p.  347  ,  and  then  by  a  pretty  footpath  through 
wood,  2  M.). 

43.  From  Amsterdam  and  Haarlem  to  the  Helder. 
North  HoUand. 

Fkum  Amsterdam  to  the  Heldkk,53VjM.,  railway  in  2'/2-23/4  hrs.  (fares 
4,  3'/4,  2  fl.)-  —  The  steamboat  to  Alkmaak,  starting  every  forenoon  :ind 
afternoon  from  the  Westerhoofd  (PI.  D,  2),  is  a  more  interesting  though 
slower  conveyance  (3  hrs.  ;    fares  75  or  50  c.)-      Halfway-station    Znaudam. 

The  province  of  Noord  Holland,  50  M.  in  len^rth,  and  25-2S  M.  in 
width,  is  entirely  surrounded   by   the   North    Sea    and  the  Zuiderzee,  the 


NOORD  HOLLAND.         43.  Route.     339 

small  strip  of  laud  hitherto  connecting  it  with  the  continent  being  now 
intersected  by  the  North  Sea  Canal  (p.  337).  A  great  part  of  the  district 
lies  12-15  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  from  which  it  is  protected  on 
the  W.  side  by  the  Dunes,  and  on  the  E.  by  lofty  embankments.  The 
polders  (p.  XXIX)  near  the  Helder  are  of  great' interest  to  the  agricultur- 
alist. The  cattle  of  this  district  are  of  a  remarkably  fine  breed,  and  yield 
an  altundant  supply  of  excellent  milk.  The  mutton  of  N.  Holland  also 
enjoys  a  high  reputation,  and  the  wool  of  the  sheep  is  much  prized  for 
its  softness.  This  part  of  Ivorthern  Holland,  lying  out  of  the  ordinary 
track  of  tourists,  is  not  often  visited,  though  the  towns  of  Iloorn, 
Enkhuizen.  and  Alknutar  contain  many  important  buildings  of  their  palmy 
days  in  the  17-lSth  cent.,  while  the  Helder  is  interesting  as  the  station  of 
the  Hutch  navy.  The  inhabitants  are  more  primitive  in  their  habits  than 
those  of  Southern  Holland,  and  adhere  more  tenaciously  to  the  pictur- 
esque costumes  of  their  ancestors. 

The  head-dress  of  the  women  is  often  curious.  It  consists  of  a  broad 
band  of  gold  in  the  shape  of  a  horse-shoe  across  the  forehead,  serving  to 
keep  the  hair  back,  and  decorated  at  the  sides  with  large  oval  rosettes 
of  the  same  metal.  Above  this  is  worn  a  cap  or  veil  of  rich  lace,  with 
wings  hanging  down  to  the  neck,  while  handsome  earrings  of  gold  and 
precious  stones  complete  this  elaborate  and  picturesque  headgear.  The 
natives  of  Friesland,  who  are  often  met  with  in  Amsterdam  and  other 
towns,  wear  a  kind  of  skull-cap  of  metal,  usually  silver  gilt,  which  lies 
close  to  the  temples ,  where  it  is  finished  with  spiral  ornaments.  These 
trinkets  are  generally  of  gold,  even  among  the  poorer  classes,  or  at  least 
of  silver,  and  are  handed  down  from  mother  to  daughter  as  heir- looms. 
—  Head-dresses  of  this  kind  are  often  exhibited  in  the  windows  of  the 
goldsmiths  in  Amsterdam,  Utrecht,  and  other  towns.  An  opportunity 
is  thus  afforded  of  comparing  the  modern  workmanship  with  the  ancient 
heir-looms,  a  comparison  seldom  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  latter. 

Fkom  Amsterdam  to  Uitgeest,  M^/o  M.,  railway  in  3/4  hr.  — 
The  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station  (p.  293),  traverses  the 
drained  bed  of  the  Y  (p.  3371  on  an  embankment,  and  crosses  the 
North  Sea  Canal  by  a  bridsrc  100  yds.  long. 

6  M.  Zaandam  (p.  3361.  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Hoom  and 
Enkhuizen  (p.  343).  8M.  Koog-Zaandyk,  10 M.  Wormerveer,  11  M. 
Kromjnenie,  are  villages  with  neat  little  houses,  gardens,  and  in- 
numerable windmills,  situated  on  the  Zaan.  To  the  S.  we  sec  the 
Grootc  Kerk  of  Haarlem.  —  1472  M.  Uitgeest,  the  junction  of  the 
line  from  Haarlem. 

From  Haarlbm  to  Uitgeest,  11  M.,  railway  in  38  min.  — 
Haarlem,  see  p.  285.  The  train  runs  through  a  pleasant  district 
towards  the  N.,  passing  the  village  of  Bloemendaal  (p.  291),  to 
(3M.)  Zandpoort  (Duinlust  Hotel),  near  which,  to  the  left,  are  the 
lunatic  asylum  of  Meerenberg  and  the  ruin  of  Brederode  (p.  291). 
On  the  right  are  pastures  with  tine  cattle.  Near  (5 1/2  M.)  Velzen, 
where  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Ymuiden  (p.  337),  are  nume- 
rous country-houses  and  pleasure-grounds.  —  The  train  then  crosses 
the  North  Sea  Canal  (p.  337)  and  reaches  — 

7  M.  Beverivyk,  with  country-houses  and  pleasure-grounds. 
During  the  bathing-season  a  steam-tramway  runs  from  Beverwyk   (in 

20  min.;  fare  15  c.)  to  Wyk  aan  Zee  (Vereenigd'e  Hotels,  R.  1-2,  board  23/4- 
372  fl.,  baths  25-50  c),  a  favourite  Dutch  watering-place,  with  a  children's 
hospital.  A  steamer  plies  hence  daily  to  Amsterdam  in  274  hrs.  (80c.,  return- 
ticket  1  fl.  20  c).  A  pleasant  walk  of  5/4  hr.  may  be  taken  along  the  beach 
or  the  Dunes  to  Ymuiden  (p.  337). 

■    22* 


340     Route  43.  ALKMAAK.  Frvm  Avisterdam 

11  M.  Uityeest,  the  juiution  of  thu  llaarlcui  and  Amsterdam 
liucs.  —  The  lirst  stations  beyond  Uitgecst  arc  (,10 '/2  ^-  from  Am- 
sterdam) Castricum  and  (21  M.)  Ueilo. 

27  M.  Alkmaar  (De  Bury;  Toelast),  a  town  of  14,400  inliab., 
deriving  its  name  (wliicli  sigi\ilies  'all  sea' )  from  the  lakes  or  morass 
which  formerly  surrounded  it,  is  renowned  in  the  history  of  the 
Dutch  struggle  for  independence  for  its  stout  and  successful  resist- 
ance to  tlie  besieging  Spaniards  iu  1573.  —  The  railway-station 
lies  about  1/4  M.  from  the  town ,  the  road  to  which  leads  through 
the  pleasant  public  gardens. 

The  Church  of  St.  Lawrence,  a  line  Gothic  edifice  (1470-98), 
with  lofty  vaulting  of  wood,  deserves  a  visit.  In  the  S.  aisle,  near 
the  organ  (painted  by  Caesar  van  Everdingen,  1645),  is  a  painting 
in  seven  sections,  of  1507,  representing  the  Seven  "Works  of  Mercy. 
Iu  the  S.  aisle  is  the  finely-engraved  brass  of  Pieter  Claas  Palinck 
(1546).  Carved  stalls  in  the  Renaissance  style.  The  choir  contains 
the  ancient  tomb  of  Floris  V. ,  Count  of  Holland  (d.  1296).  The 
tower  of  the  chur(;h  fell  in  the  15th  cent,  and  has  never  been  re- 
built. A  view  of  the  church  and  tower  is  to  be  seen  on  the  wall  of 
the  choir.  The  sacristan  lives  in  the  small  square,  planted  with 
trees,  to  the  S.  of  the  church. 

There  are  two  modern  Roman  Catholic  Churches  at  Alkmaar, 
one  in  the  Gothic,  the  other  in  the  Romanesque  style. 

In  the  Langestraat,  the  chief  street  of  the  town,  rises  the 
Stadhuis  with  its  tower,  a  Gothic  structure  dating  from  1507.  It 
contains  a  museum,  consisting  of  Alkmaar  antiquities ,  of  a  few 
corporation  and  other  paintings,  and  of  other  objects  of  interest. 
There  is  also  a  library.  Admission,  Mon.  and  Frid.  1-3  p.m.  (for 
strangers  at  other  times  also),  25  c. 

Room  I.  Pictures  by  C.  Beck;  painted  sculptures  from  the  portal 
of  the  ()rphanage;  instruments  of  torture.  —  Room  II.  To  the  right, 
Honihorsl.,  Holy  Family  (1632);  Ravesteyn.  Portrait-,  Caesar  van  Everdingen 
(of  Alkmaar;  brother  of  Allart  van  Everdingen,  the  landscape-painter), 
An  admiral,  'Regent-piece'  (1634),  Two  large  corporation-pieces  (painted  in 
1659  under  the  influence  of  Van  der  Heist);  W.  ran  de  Velde  the  Elder, 
IJattle  of  Copenhagen  in  1658,  a  large  cartoon ;  C.  van  Everdingen,  Lycur- 
gus  showing  the  results  of  education  (painted  under  the  influence  of 
Honthorst);  Corporation-pieces  of  the  end  of  the  16th  and  lieginning  of 
the  17th  cent.,  of  no  great  merit;  P.  de  Grehher  (1023),  Family-portraits; 
representations  of  the  sieges  of  Haai'lem  and  Alkmaar  by  the  Spaniards; 
IF.  Bavtius,  Corporation-piece  (1634).  In  the  middle  of  the  room  are 
sculptures  and  weapons.  —  Room  III.  Seals,  weapons,  and  other  small 
works  of  art. 

Alkmaar  carries  on  a  very  extensive  cheese-trade.  The  weekly 
market  is  frequented  by  the  peasantry  of  the  whole  province 
of  N.  Holland  ,  who  sell  their  cheese  here  to  the  dealers.  Up- 
wards of  5000  tons  of  cheese  are  annually  weighed  in  the  Town 
Weighing  House,  being  about  one-half  of  the  produce  of  the  province. 
This  building  (at  the  end  of  the  Langestraat,  through  the  Mient  to 
the  left)  was  erected  in  1582,  and  the  handsome  tower  was  com- 


to  the  Helder.  HELDER.  43.  Route.     341 

pleted  in  1599  by  Cornells  Pz.  Kunst.  On  market-days  (Fridays) 
the  whole  of  the  picturesqne  place  in  front  of  the  Weighing  Honse 
is  covered  by  huge  piles  of  red  and  yellow  cheeses,  while  the  streets 
are  full  of  the  gaily-painted  waggons  of  the  neighbouring  peasantry. 
Many  of  the  17th  cent,  houses  in  the  Luttik  Oudorp,  Zydam,  Mient, 
Verdronken  Oort,  Oudegracht,  and  other  streets,  are  highly  inter- 
esting to  students  of  architecture.  A  monument  was  erected  in  the 
promenade  in  1876  to  commemorate  the  siege  of  Alkmaar  by  the 
Spaniards. 

The  Bosch,  or  park,  near  Alkmaar,  although  inferior  to  the  parks 
of  Haarlem  and  the  Hague,  affords  pleasant  walks.  Trotting  Matches 
(Harddravery)  are  occasionally  held  here ,  and  the  prize  generally 
consists  of  a  silver  coffee-pot  presented  by  the  magistrates.  One  of 
these  matches  should  if  possible  be  witnessed  by  the  traveller, 
who  will  not  fail  to  admire  the  costumes  of  the  peasantry  and  the 
unsophisticated  delight  of  the  spectators. 

At  Eijmond-Binnen ,  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Alkmaar,  are  situated  the 
scanty  ruins  of  the  ca.stle  of  Egmond,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  illustrious 
family  so  often  mentioned  in  the  annals  of  the  Netherlands.  In  the 
vicinity,  at  Egmond  op  den  Iloef.,  is  an  old  and  ruined  abbey-church,  in 
which  many  of  the  ancient  Counts  of  nf)lland  are  interred.  The  abl)ey 
at  a  very  remote  period  was  a  zealous  patron  of  science,  and  its  chronicles 
formed  the  principal  soiirce  of  the  early  history  of  Holland.  In  1572  the 
fanatical  iconoclasts  destroyed  the  venerable  and  once  magnificent  build- 
ings. A  lighthouse  erected  in  1833  near  Egmond  nan  Zee  is  adorned  with 
a  colossal  lion  in  honour  of  Lieutenant  Van  Speyk  (p.  173). 

The  train  crosses  the  North  Holland  Canal  (p.  336),  which 
skirts  the  back  of  the  Dunes,  and  then  turns  to  the  N.E.  To  the 
right  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  fertile  Schermer  Polder.  —  31 1/2  M. 
Hugowaard;  341/2  M.  Noord-Schaarwoude  \  39  M.  Schagen;  46  M. 
Anna  Paulowna,  in  the  extensive  polder  of  that  name. 

531/2  ^-  Helder  {Hotel  Bellevue,  near  the  station ;  Den  Burg^ 
Toelast,  near  the  harbour,  with  a  good  view  of  the  Zuider-Zee)  was 
towards  the  close  of  last  century  little  more  than  a  large  fishing- 
village,  but  now  contains  22,700  inhabitants.  In  1811  Napoleon 
caused  extensive  fortifications  to  be  constructed  here  by  Spanish 
prisoners  of  war,  and  the  works  were  afterwards  completed  by  the 
Dutch.  About  ^/4  M.  to  the  E.,  and  connected  with  the  Helder  by 
a  road  along  the  Helder  Dyke,  lies  Nieuwe  Diep^  the  harbour  at  the 
mouth  of  the  North  Holland  Canal,  where  the  capacious  wharves 
and  magazines  of  the  Dutch  Navy,  and  also  the  Naval  Cadet  School, 
together  known  as  Willemsoord,  are  situated.  Part  of  the  Dutch 
fleet  is  generally  stationed  here. 

As  this ,  the  extreme  promontory  of  N.  Holland ,  is  exposed 
more  than  any  other  part  of  the  coast  to  the  violence  of  the  wind 
and  the  encroachments  of  the  sea,  it  is  protected  on  all  sides  by 
huge  and  massive  dykes.  The  great  Heldbr  Dyke  ,  about  5  M.  in 
length  ,  and  12  ft.  in  width,  which  is  traversed  by  a  good  road 
from  the  Nieuwe  Diep  to  the  Helder,    descends  into  the  sea  to  a 


342     Route  44.  PURMEREND.  From  Amsterdam 

distance  of  200  ft. ,  at  an  angle  of  40*^.  The  highest  tide  never 
reaches  the  summit,  while  the  lowest  still  covers  the  foundations. 
Huge  bulwarks  projecting  several  hundred  fathoms  into  the  sea  at 
intervals  add  to  the  stability  of  the  structure.  This  remarkable 
artificial  cx)ast  is  entirely  constructed  of  Norwegian  granite. 

The  traveller  is  recommended  to  take  a  walk  on  this  dyke, 
which  extends  from  the  Nieuwe  Diep  to  the  Fort  Erfprins  beyond 
the  Holder.  Fort  Kykduln  rises  on  the  highest  point  of  the 
northern  dyke.  The  lofty  lighthouse,  which  may  be  visited  by 
those  who  have  never  seen  a  structure  of  the  kind  ,  commands 
a  line  prospect. 

A  fierce  and  sanguinary  naval  battle  took  place  off  this  Dune  on  21.it 
Aug.,  1673,  between  the  united  English  and  French  fleets  and  the  Dutch 
tinder  De  Rvyier  and  Tromp  ^  in  which  the  latter  were  victorious. 
In  September,  1799,  an  army  of  10,000  English  and  13,000  Russian  troops, 
commanded  by  Admiral  Abercrombie  and  the  Duke  of  York,  landed  at 
this  point.  The  Russians  lost  their  way  and  were  totally  det'eated  by 
the  French  at  Bergen^  to  the  N.  W.  of  Alkmaai-,  while  the  English  were 
compelled,  after  a  skirmish  at  Castricum  (p.  340),  to  yield  to  the  super- 
ior forces  of  the  French  and  to  retreat,  having  failed  in  their  endeavours 
to  induce  the  Dutch  to  revolt  against  their  new  masters. 

Opposite  the  Helder,  and  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the 
strait  of  Marsdiep ,  which  is  never  choked  up  with  sand,  lies  the 
island  of  Texel.  A  steamboat  plies  thither  thrice  daily  in  3/4  hr., 
landing  at  Oudeschild.  De  Burg,  the  capital  of  the  island,  is  situ- 
ated 3  M.  inland.  The  island,  with  G400  inhab.,  and  73  sq.  M.  in 
extent,  consists  chiefly  of  pasture-land,  and  supports  about  34,000 
sheep,  which  sometimes  yield  as  much  as  100  tons  of  line  wool 
annually.  A  highly-esteemed  quality  of  green  cheese  is  prepared 
from  the  sheep's  milk ,  and  the  mutton  itself  is  excellent.  The 
northern  extremity  of  the  island  is  called  Eyerland  ('land  of  eggs'), 
on  account  of  the  myriads  of  sea-fowl  which  visit  it.  The  eggs  are 
collected  in  great  numbers  and  sent  to  the  Amsterdam  market. 

Harlingen  (p.  346)  in  Friesland  may  be  reached  by  a  sailing- 
boat  with  a  favourable  wind  in  5-6  hrs.  (10-12  fl.). 

44.  From  Amsterdam  to  Harlingen  and  Groningen  via 
Enkhuizen  and  Stavoren. 

99  or  115  M.  Railway  to  (37  M.)  Enkhuizen  in  IV4-IV2  br.  Stkamkr  frona 
Enkhuizen  to  (14  M.)  Stavoren  iin  IV4  hr.  Railway  from  Stavoren  via 
Leeuicarden  to  (47  M.)  Harlingen  in  21/2.  to  (04  M.)  Groningen  in  3  hrs. 

A  Steamer  also  plies  from  Amsterdam  to  Harlingen  on  Mon.,  Tues., 
Thurs,,  &  Frid.  in  6  hrs.,  starting  from  the  De  Ruytor-Kade  (PI.  E.  2); 
fare  21/2  or  II/2  H.  (Restaurant  on  board).  —  Steamers  also  ply  several  times 
a  day  to  Hoom  (p.  343)  and  Enkhuizen  (p.  343);  comp.  the  Oflicieele 
Reisgids. 

From  Amsterdam  to  (6  M.)  Zaanr?am,[see  p.  336.  The  train  now 
crosses  the  Znnn,  stops  at  Oostzaan,  and  skirts  the  Wormer  Polder. 

141/2  M.Purmer end  ( Vertjiddeltoskam;  Heerenlogement),  a  small 
town  with  oOOO  inhab..  situated  between  the  Piirmer,  Wormer,  and 
Beemster  polders.     The  last  of  these,  one  of  the  ilnest  in  Holland, 


to  Hnrlingen.  ENKHUIZEN.  44.  Route.     343 

valued  on  an  average  at  1200  fl.  per  acre,  reclaimed  in  1608-12, 
begins  close  to  the  Beemster  Gate.  Nearly  in  the  middle  of  it  lies 
Midden  Beemster  (^*Heerenhuis),  41/9  M.  distant.  —  To  Edam,  see 
p.  338. 

The  railway  to  lloorn  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  Beemster,  pass- 
ing Kwadyk,  Oosthuizen,  and  Avenhorn. 

251/2  M.  Hoom  (*/)oeZen,  R.  &  B.  21/4,  D.  13/4  fl. ;  Hotel  Cen- 
tral, R.  &  B.  13  4,  D.l  1/2-2  fl.  ;  antiquities  sold  by  F.  Guise,  watch- 
maker, Nieuwestraat) ,  with  10,000  inhab.  ,  the  ancient  capital 
of  N.  Holland,  is  a  picturesque  town  with  numerous  quaint  old 
buildings,  the  walls  of  which  are  often  elaborately  adorned  with 
tiles.  Among  the  most  interesting  are  the  Harbour  Tower  (1532- 
165 IJ,  on  the  bank  of  the  Zuiderzee;  the  Stadhuis,  containing  a 
few  old  pictures  (A.  J.  T.  Blaiikerhofi",  Battle  in  the  Zuiderzee  in 
1573,  with  finely  carved  frame);  the  St.  Jans  Oasthuis ;  the  Weigh 
WoM.se  (1609);  and  the  Tribunalshof(i&3i\  in  the  market.  The  Groote 
Kerk  contains  a  monument  to  Rear-admiral  Floriszoou.  The  new 
Museum  contains  paintings  by  F.  Bol,  W.  van  de  Velde  the  Younger, 
J.  de  Baen ,  four  corporation-pieces  by  J.  A.  Rootius,  etc.  In  1573 
a  naval  engagement  took  place  oft"  Hoorn  between  the  Dutch  and 
the  Spaniards,  when  the  admiral  in  command  of  the  latter  was 
taken  prisoner.  Hoorn  was  the  birthplace  of  Willem  S(;houten, 
who  discovered  the  passage  round  the  S.  coast  of  America  in  1016, 
and  named  'Cape  Horn'  after  his  native  town.  From  Hoorn  a  dili- 
gence plies  daily  (except  Sun.)  to  Alkmaar  (p.  340)  in  2V2  ^rs. 
(1^4  or  1  fl.).  A  branch-line  also  runs  from  Hoorn  to  (IOV2  M.) 
Medemblik  (in  50  min.). 

The  railway  from  Hoorn  toEnkhuizen  leads  through  the  richest 
district  in  N.  Holland.  The  houses  of  the  peasants  resemble  villas  ; 
most  of  them  are  surrounded  by  small  moats  and  communicate  with 
the  road  by  tiny  bridges.  Stations  Blokker,  Westwoud.  Hooykarspel, 
and  Bovenkarspel. 

37  M.  "Enkhuizen  ( Oranjezaal)  was  once  a  flourishing  town  with 
40,000 inhab.,  which  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th cent,  possessed  a 
fleet  of  upwards  of  400  herring-fishing  vessels.  The  population  is  now 
5700  only,  and  not  a  single  fishing-smack  remains.  The  Drome- 
daris  tower,  a  relic  of  the  old  fortications,  dates  from  1540.  The 
Zuiderkerk,  built  in  a  morass,  with  the  tomb  of  the  naturalist  Palu- 
danns  (d.  1033),  has  an  interesting  tower  (1450-1525).  The*Choir- 
screen  in  the  Westerkerk,  with  relief-figures  of  Moses,  Joshua,  and 
the  Evangelists,  is  the  finest  work  of  the  kind  in  N.  Holland 
(1542-73);  beside  the  church  is  a  detached  wooden  belfry  dating 
from  1519.  The  Stadhuis  (1688),  in  the  Breestraat,  has  some  ceil- 
ing-paintings by  Lairesse,  etc.  Other  interesting  edifices  in  the 
to^\n  are  the  Weigh-house  (1539)  in  the  fish -market,  the  Mint 
(1611),  the  Orphanage  (I6I0),  and  numerous  private  houses  of  the 
17th  century.    Enkhuizen  was  the  birthplace  of  Paul  Potter,  the 


344     Route  id.  LEEUWARDEN.  From  Amsterdam 

painter  (1625-1 654).  —  Steamers  ply  daily  fromEnkhuizen  to  Har- 
linyen  (p.  346). 

FroniEnkliuizen  the  steam-ferry  crosses  the  Zuiderzee  in  l^^hr. 
to  Stavoren,  where  the  Dutch  State  Railway  begins.  The  ancient 
Stavoren,  the  city  of  the  heathen  god  Stavo,  the  Thor  of  the  Fri- 
sians, is  now  a  small  place  with  700  inhab.  only,  but  it  has  begun 
to  revive  since  the  opening  of  the  railway  and  the  construction  of  a 
harbour  for  the  ferry-steamers.  It  was  once  the  residence  of  the 
Frisian  nioiiarchs,  and  subsequently  a  wealthy  and  independent 
commercial  city,  which  reached  the  height  of  its  prosperity  at  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  century. 

Old  chroniclers  relate  that  the  citizens  of  this  favoured  spot  were  in 
the  habit  of  using  pure  gold  for  many  purposes  to  which  the  baser  me- 
tals are  generally  applied.  Thus  the  bolts  on  the  doors  of  their  houses, 
the  rivets  and  fastenings  of  their  yachts  and  pleasure-boats,  and  the 
weather-cocks  on  their  churches  are  said  frequently  to  have  been  made 
of  that  precious  metal.  The  decay  of  the  place  is  chiefly  attributed  to 
the  fact  that  the  harbour  is  gradually  becoming  filled  with  sand  and  thus 
rendered  useless.  The  Vvouwensand ,  a  broad  grass-grown  sandl)ank  in 
front  of  the  harbour,  derives  its  name  from  the  tradition  that  the  wife 
of  a  wealthy  merchant  once  desired  one  of  her  husband's  cajttains  to 
bring  her  from  abroad  'the  most  precious  thing  in  the  world'.  The 
ivorthy  Dutch  mariner,  in  conscientious  fulfilment  of  the  request,  ac- 
cordingly brought  back  a  cargo  of  wheat  from  Dantsic!  The  lady,  in- 
lignant  at  his  stupidity,  ordered  the  valuable  freight  to  be  thrown  over- 
board at  the  mouth  of  the  harbour.  This  act  of  wanton  waste  ultimately 
laused  the  riin  of  the  proud  and  luxurious  city.  The  grain  is  said  to 
liave  taken  root,  and  to  have  formed  the  foundation  of  the  sandbank, 
f/hich  is  daily  increasing  in  extent  and  presents  an  insuperable  barrier 
to  the  entrance  of  the  once  excellent  haven. 

The  lighthouse  of  Stavoren,  on  the  extreme  W.  promontory  of 
Friesland,  is  visible  from  almost  every  part  of  the  Zuiderzee. 

To  the  E.  of  Stavoren  lies  the  G'actsterland,  forming  an  oasis  of  forest 
in  the  midst  of  a  vast  expanse  of  moor.  The  church  of  the  village  of 
Wyckel  contains  the  tomb  and  monument  of  General  Menno  van  Coehorn 
(d.  1704),  the  celebrated  Dutch  engineer. 

The  railway  runs  to  the  N.E,  through  the  fertile  but  monotonous 
plain  of  Friesland,  passing  several  small  stations,  Hindelonpen,  with 
a  lofty  church-tower,  is  celebrated  for  its  brightly  coloured  dresses 
and  gaily-painted  houses  (p.  310).  Workicm  contains  some  interest- 
ing private  houses  of  the  17th  cent,  and  a  pretty  weigh-house  of 
1650.  The  church  has  a  detached  W,  Gothic  tower;  in  the  interior 
are  richly  painted  biers  belonging  to  the  guilils  (16-17th  cent.). 

171/2  M.  Sneek  (Hotel  de  Wynberg),  a  busy  little  town  with 
11,000  inhab.  ,  carrying  on  a  considerable  trade  in  cheese  and 
butter.  A  tramway  runs  hence  (in  21/2  hrs.)  to  Bolsward  (p.  349) 
and  Harlingen  (p.  346);  and  another  via  Joure  to  Ileerenveen 
(p.  349 )  in  l'/4hr.  —  Several  unimportant  stations  are  now  passed. 

31  M.  Leeuwarden  (*Nieuioe  Doelen, ;  't  Wapen,  van  Friesland; 
Phoenix.  —  Friesch  Koffieliuis;  Port  van  Cleve\  Cafe  Neuf;  Van 
den  Wal)^  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Frisians,  with  29,500  inhab., 
carrying  on  a  considerable  trade  in  cattle  and  agricultural  products, 
is  the  junction  for  Oroningen  on  the  E.  and  Harlingen  on  the  W. 


to  Harlingen.  FRANEKER.  44.  Route.      345 

Leaving  the  station  and  skirting  the  new  cattle-market,  we  reach 
the  Willemskade,  on  a  canal  bordered  with  pleasant-looking  villas. 
The  Prins-Hendrikstraat  leads  hence  to  the  'Zaailand',  a  square 
enclosed  by  the  new  Law  Courts,  the  Commercial  School,  the 
Orphanage,  the  Exchange,  and  other  buildings.  In  the  Hofplein, 
near  the  centre  of  the  town,  are  the  Stadhuis,  with  a  tine  old  hall 
(18th  cent.)  and  some  interesting  collections  in  the  archive-room, 
and  the  iusigniti(;ant  old  Palace  of  the  governors  of  Friesland,  who 
were  members  of  the  Nassau-Diez  family,  and  ancestors  of  the 
royal  family  of  Holland.  The  latter  is  now  occupied  by  the  Royal 
Commissary  for  Friesland.  The  museum  of  the  Friesch  Genootschap 
van  Geschied,  Oudheid,  en  Tanlkunde  contains  ethnographical  curio- 
sities, a  cabinet  of  coins,  and  various  local  antiquities,  including  two 
tine  *Rooms  from  Ilindeloopen  (p.  344).  Among  the  other  in- 
teresting buildings  in  the  town  are  the  pretty  Weigh-house  of  1598, 
in  the  Plein,  the  Oldehove,  an  unfinished  Gothic  tower,  and  the  Kam^e- 
lary,  dating  from  the  time  of  Philip  II.,  originally  a  law-court  built 
by  Harth.  Janszon  in  1566-71.  The  mediaeval  palaces  of  the  nobi- 
lity have  long  disappeared.  Thegold  and  silverwares  of  Leeuwarden 
are  of  considerable  importance,  no  fewer  than  25  firms  being  enga- 
ged in  their  manufacture  (comp.  p.  339).  The  Frisian  women  enjoy 
a  great  reputation  for  beauty,  and  many  very  attractive  faces  may 
be  seen  among  the  country -girls  who  frequent  the  markets.  In 
summer,  afternoon-concerts  are  frequently  given  in  the  pretty  Stad- 
or  Prinsentuin  j  adm.  50  c). 

Railway  from  Leeuwarden  to  Meppel  and  Zwolle,  see  R.  45. 

The  Frisians  are  the  only  Germanic  tribe  that  has  preserved  its 
name  unaltered  since  the  time  of  Tacitus.  They  are  remarkable  for  their 
physical  strength,  their  bravery,  and  love  of  independence.  Charlemagne 
entered  into  a  treaty  with  this  remarkable  race,  by  which  they  agreed 
to  submit  to  the  rulers  he  should  place  over  them,  on  condition  that  they 
should  be  governed  in  accordance  with  Frisian  laws.  That  monarch  caused 
a  collection  of  these  laws  to  be  made,  and  they  still  exist  in  the  Asegabuc/i 
in  the  old  Frisian  language,  as  well  as  in  Latin.  Their  language  differs 
considerably  from  that  of  the  rest  of  Holland,  occupying  an  intermediate 
position  between  Anglo-Saxon  and  Old  Norse,  and  often  closely  resembling 
English.  The  Frisian  language  boasts  of  a  not  inconsiderable  literature, 
but  is  gradually  being  supplanted  by  Dutch. 

The  small  village  of  Dokkum ,  where  St.  Boniface  was  slain  by  the 
Frisians  in  755.  lies  9  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Leeuwarden,  and  i.t  connected 
by  tramway  with  Veenwoude,  a  station  on  the  railway  from  Leeuwarden 
to  Groningen  (see  p.  346). 

From  Leeuwarden  to  Harlingen,  15^2^')  railway  in  40  min. 
—  Stations :  Delnum,  Dronryp. 

IO1/2  ^-  Franeker  ('De  Korenbeurs)  was  the  seat  of  a  university 
from  1585  to  1811,  when  it  was  suppressed  by  Napoleon.  Vitringa, 
Heineccius,  Schultens,  Hemsterhuis,  Valkenaer,  and  other  savants 
once  taught  here.  In  the  choir  of  St.  Martin's  Church,  completed 
in  1420,  are  several  very  fine  tombstones  of  the  15-17th  cent.,  plac- 
ed upright  against  the  walls.   The  earlier  specimens  are  of  reddish 


346    Route  44.  nARLTNGEN. 

sandstone,  the' later  (some  12  ft.  longl  of  dark  granite.  The  most 
famous  Frisian  sculptors  or  'Antyksnyders' ,  several  of  whom  stu- 
died in  Italy,  were  Peter  Dirks  and  Vincent  Lukas.  who  flourished 
about  the  middle  of  the  16th  century.  The  re<ontly  restored  Stadhuis 
(1591 )  contains  portraits  of  scholars,  etc.  The  Komtrayerhauschen 
is  an  elegant  building  of  1634.  The  traveller  should  not  omit  to 
see  the  great  curiosity  of  the  place,  an  astronomical  model  which 
shows  all  the  motions  of  the  planets,  the  suii,  and  the  moon,  with 
the  utmost  scientilic  accuracy.  It  was  constructed  by  Eise  Eisinga^ 
a  simple  burgher  of  Franeker,  in  1774-81. 

15^2  ^-  S.a.rlingen(Heerenlogement),  a  town  of  10,200  inhab., 
with  a  harbour  constructed  in  l<S70-77,  occupies  almost  the  same 
site  as  a  city  which  was  entirely  swallowed  up  by  an  inundation  in 
1134.  In  loGO  the  surrounding  district  was  again  devastated  and 
depopulated  by  another  encroachment  of  the  sea,  in  consequence  of 
which  the  Spanish  governor  Rohles  de  Billy  caused  the  entire  pro- 
vince to  be  surrounded  by  lofty  dykes.  The  grateful  inhabitants, 
in  commemoration  of  this  important  service,  erected  a  statue  to  the 
governor,  called  the  Steenen  M<tn,  which  is  still  to  be  seen  on  the 
sea-wall  near  the  town.  — Steamers  with  tolerable  passenger-accom- 
modation ply  between  Ilarlingen  and  London,  Hull,  etc.  Therailway- 
station  is  3/^  M.  from  the  town.    Tramway  to  Sneek,  p.  344. 


From  liEEuwARDEN  TO  Groningen,  33'/2M.,  railway  in  lV2lir. 
The  district  traversed  is  monotonous  and  the  stations  are  unimport- 
ant. From  Veemooude  a  tramway  runs  to  Bergum  and  Dokkum  (see 
p.  345).  —  337-2  M.  (rroninge.n^  see  p.  350. 

45.    From  Amsterdam  or  Utrecht  to  Leeuwarden  and 
Groningen. 

From  Amsterdam  to  Amersfookt  (28V2  M.)  in  l-l'/2  hr.  (fares  2  fl.  30, 
1  n.  85.  1  fl.  15  c).  From  Utrecht  to  Akersfoort  (14  M.)  in  V^-'A  hr. 
(fares  1  fl.  10,  85,  55c.).    From  Ameksi'oort  to   Leeuwarden  (98  M.),  ex- 

Sress  in  S'/z,  ordinary   trains   in  5V'-'-B'/2  hrs.  (fares   7  fl.  90,  G  fl.  15,  '6  fl. 
5  c.).     From  Amersfoort  to  Groningen  (102  M.)  in  the  same  time  (fares 
8  fl.  70,  7  II.,  4  fl.  35  c). 

Amsterdam,  see  p.  293.  The  line  runs  towards  the  E.  and  in- 
tersects the  Water graafsmeer  polder,  with  its  fresh  green  meadows. 
10  M.  Wfesp,  a  small  town  on  the  Vecht.  The  polders  next  tra- 
versed were  formerly  the  Naarder  Meer.  —  14Y2  ^-  Naarden- 
Bussum.  The  small  fortified  town  of  Naarden  (De  Kroon),  a  little 
to  the  N.  of  the  line,  possesses  a  church  painted  in  the  Gothic 
style.  The  Stadhuis  and  the  orphanage  contain  a  few  paintings. 
The  train  now  turns  to  the  S.  to  (18  M.)  Hilversum,  where  the 
Utrecht  branch  of  the  railway  diverges.  Hilversum  is  also  con- 
nected with  Amsterdam  by  a  steam  -  tramway ,  passing  Muiden 
(p.  337).  The  neighbourhood  here  is  attractive,  and  suggestive  of 
pleasant  walks  and  drives.  —  23  M.  Bnnrn^   a  favourite  summer- 


ZWOLLE.  4r>.  Route.   347 

resort  of  the  -w-ealthy  citizens  of  Amsterdam,  with  a  fine  wood  (the 
Baarnsche  Bosch ;  Soeatdyk,  see  p.  366).  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Eem  and  reaches  (281/2  M.)  Amersfoort. 

Utrecht,  p.  362.  The  first  stations  are  (5'/2  M.)  De  Bildt, 
(10  M.)  Soest,  and  (14  M.)  Amersfoort,  where  the  Amsterdam  and 
Utrecht  lines  meet. 

Amersfoort  (Muller ;  De  Zxvaan)  is  an  Industrial  town,  with 
14,500  inhah.,  situated  on  the  Eem,  in  the  midst  of  a  sandy  dis- 
trict. In  1787  the  14th  cent.  Church  of  St.  Mary  was  partly 
destroyed  by  an  explosion  of  gunpowder;  the  tower,  308  ft.  high, 
which  was  not  injured,  built  about  1500  (top  restored  in  1055)  is 
the  finest  (lOthic  pyramid  in  the  country.  It  has  a  chime  of  bells 
by  Fr.  Hemony.  The  medireval  gateways  of  the  town  are  interesting. 
Amersfoort  is  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  Jansenists  (p.  306j. 
Outside  the  town,  V/^  M.  from  the  station,  is  an  eminence  with  a 
pavilion,  which  commands  an  admirable  panorama  of  the  surround- 
ing district.  —  From  Amersfoort  to  Zutphen  and  Itheine,  see  R.  47. 
The  line  to  Nymegen  is  mentioned  at  p.  373. 

Our  line  turns  towards  the  N.  The  next  stations  beyond 
Amersfoort  are  (6  M.  from  Amersfoort)  Nykerk,  (11  M.)  Putten,  and 
(14  M.)  Ermelo-Veldwyk.  The  soil  is  sandy  and  generally  sterile, 
biit  tobacco  is  extensively  planted  here.  This  district  is  the  Veiuice, 
lying  between  the  Zuiderzee  and  the  Yssel,  and  is  one  of  the  highest 
parts  of  Holland  (300-350  ft.  above  the  sea). 

17  M.  Hajderwyk  (Hotel  de  la  PaLv;  't  Wapen  van  Zutphen),  a 
small  fortress  and  seaport  on  the  Zuiderzee,  is  the  depot  for  the 
Dutch  E.  Indian  recruits.  The  university,  founded  in  1648,  was 
closed  in  1811. 

20 J/2  M.  Hulshorst;  24  M.  Nunspeet;  30  M.  Elburg-Epe;  35  M. 
Wezep;  38  M.  Ilattem.  The  Yssel  is  now  crossed  by  a  long  iron 
bridge. 

42  M.  Zwolle  (*Nieuxi:e  Keizerskroon ,  Kampenstraat ,  R. ,  L., 
&  A.  2,  B.  1/2?  ^-  ^fl-  J  Heerenlogement,  in  the  Groote  Markt,  com- 
mercial, R.,  L.,  A.,&B.  1  fl.  85  c.-2V2f-,D.  inch  wine  21/4  A.,  well 
spoken  of),  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Over- Yssel,  with  26,000 
inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  Zwarte  Water,  a  small  river  which  falls 
into  the  Zuiderzee.  Approaching  the  town  from  the  station  we  observe 
the  Sassen-Poort,  an  old  Gothic  gateway  of  brick,  with  four  towers, 
to  the  right,  at  the  end  of  a  broad  sheet  of  water  surrounded  by 
fine  trees.  In  the  market  rises  the  spacious  Gothic  Church  of  St. 
Michael,  begun  in  1406,  which  contains  a  fine  carved  pulpit,  exe- 
cuted by  'Adam  Straes  van  Weilborch  uyt  dat  Duyts  Land  Nas- 
sauwe',  about  1620,  and  an  excellent  organ  (1  hr's  performance 
6tl.).  The  choir-screen  dates  from  1592.  Beside  the  church  is  the 
picturesque  Guard-House  of  1614.  The  Stadhuis  (1448;  ex- 
terior modernized  J  contains  on  the  ground-floor  a  handsomely  paint- 
ed and  fitted  up   Gothic  *Council-room,  with  carved  figures  sup- 


348     Route  45.  KAMPEN.  From  Amsterdam 

porting  the  roof,  said  to  be  caricatures  of  councillors  of  Kampen. 
The  marriage-room  has  a  fine  Gothic  chandelier  (14th  cent.)  and 
chimney-piece.  Next  to  the  little  Gothic  Bethlehem  Church  in  the 
Sassenstraat  is  a  handsome  merchants-house  of  1571.  The  country- 
people  who  frequent  the  town  on  Fridays  wear  quaint  costumes.  — 
Thomas  d,  Kempis,  the  author  of  the  'Imitation  of  Christ',  which 
has  been  translated  into  almost  every  knowu  language,  lived  for  nearly 
64  years  in  a  monastery  on  the  Agnetenherg,  where  he  died  in  1471, 
in  his  92nd  year.  A  broken  tombstone  here  is  said  to  be  that  of 
the  pious  writer,  who  was  born  at  Kempen,  a  town  on  the  Lower 
Rhine  (p.  368),  whence  he  derived  his  name.  The  Agnetenberg, 
3  M.  from  Zwolle,  is  still  the  burial-place  of  the  wealthier  inhabi- 
tants of  Zwolle.  The  ground  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town 
is  so  saturated  with  moisture,  that  a  grave  cannot  be  dug  without 
immediately  being  filled  with  water.     Excursion  to  VUstereri.  — 


From  Zwollb  to  Kampbn,  8  M.,  railway  in  20  min.  (fares  65, 
50,  30  c).  —  Intermediate  station,  Mastenhroek. 

Kampen  (*H6tel  desPays-Ba/i,  R.  &  B.  1^/4,  L.  &  A.  1/2,  D.  inch 
wine  21/2  fl.;  *])om  van  Keulen),  on  the  Yssel  (here  crossed  by  a 
new  bridge),  near  its  influx  into  the  Zuiderzee,  is  a  quiet  and  clean 
Diitc.h  town  of  20,000  inhab.,  a  favourite  residence  of  persons  with 
limited  incomes  (no  municipal  taxes).  The  town,  once  a  member 
of  the  Planseatic  League,  was  at  the  height  of  its  prosperity  in  the 
15th  cent.,  before  the  harbour  was  silted  up.  The  Koornmarkts- 
Poort,  one  of  the  four  ancient  gateways,  dates  from  the  14th  cen- 
tury. The  large  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  or  Bovenkerk  (comp.  p.  336; 
under  restoration),  and  that  of  St.  Mary,  or  Buitenkerk  (Roman 
Catholic),  also  date  from  the  14th  century.  The  chief  object  of 
interest,  however,  is  the  *Stat)hui8,  restored  after  a  fire  in  1543. 
The  six  statues  on  the  facade  (Charlemagne,  Alexander  the  Great, 
Moderation,  Fidelity,  Justice,  and  Neighbourly  Love)  appa- 
rently date  from  the  previous  building  of  the  14th  century.  The 
council-room,  with  elaborately  carved  magistrates'  seats  (notably 
the  two  presidents'  chairs)  by  M.  Vrederick  (1540),  an  almost 
overladen  sculptured  chimney-piece  by  Jacob  Colyn  do  Nole  of 
Utrecht  (1545),  and  an  artistic  iron  trellis  before  one  of  the  win- 
dows, is  among  the  most  characteristic  curiosities  in  the  country. 
It  contains  a  small  collection  of  antiquities.  A  later  addition 
(1740-41)  contains  tapestry,  portraits  of  stadtholders,  tankards,  etc. 
In  the  vicinity  is  the  Broederkerk  (15th  cent.),  the  former  Minorite 
church,  and  the  Toiver  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  built  in  1649-04  by 
Vingboons,  as  a  kind  of  landmark  between  the  I>ovenstadandBuiten- 
stad.  —  Kampen  is  the  seat  of  a  dissenting  theological  school,  with 
6  professors  and  about  60  students. 

From  Kampen  to  Amsterdam,  steamboat  daily  in  4V2  hrs.  (from  Zwolle 
in  6«/4  hrs.). 


to  Groninyen.  GRONINGEN.  45.  Route.    349 

Beyoutl  Zwollc  the  train  crosses  tlie  Vecht.  46  M.  Dalfsen; 
51  M,  Dedemsvaart ;  547^  M.  Staphorst. 

58  M.  Meppel  ( Heerenlogement ;  Be  Bonte  Koe ,  well  spoken 
of),  a  town  with  7700inhab.,  calico  and  sail-cloth  manufactories, 
and  an  important  butter-market.  The  line  toLeeuwarden  here  turns 
to  the  left,  that  to  Groningen  to  the  right;  carriages  changed. 

The  Leeuwardex  Line  continues  to  run  towards  the  N.  ;  it 
crosses  the  Drentsche-Hoofd  Kanaal,a.nA.  passes  (61^2  M.)  Nyenveen 
and  (66 V2  M.)  Steenwyk. 

The  Pauper  Colonies  of  Fbedekiksookd,  Wilhklminaooed,  and 
WiLLEMSooKD  lie  to  the  E.  of  Steenwyk.  These  colonies  were  founded 
during  the  famine  of  1816  and  1817  by  a  charitable  society  establi.shed 
for  that  end,  and  now  support  about  2000  paupers.  Each  adult,  if  able- 
bodied  and  willing  to  work,  is  provided  with  a  few  acres  of  land,  and 
occasionally  with  a  cow,  a  pig,  and  a  few  sheep.  There  are  also  other 
excellent  arrangements,  by  means  of  which  the  majority  of  the  colonists 
are  rendered  entirely  self-supporting  after  the  first  outlay  has  been  made. 
The  houses  are  visited  almost  daily  by  the  superintending  officials,  and 
the  strictest  discipline  is  everywhere  observed. 

The  Colonies  of  Veenhlizen,  9  M.  to  the  W.  of  Assen  (see  below), 
consist  of  three  extensive  buildings,  about  V2  M.  apart,  two  of  which  were 
destined  for  the  reception  of  orphans ,  and  the  third  for  beggars.  The 
orphan-asylums  were,  however,  unsuccessful,  and  the  buildings  are  now 
occupied  by  paupers.  Another  similar  colony  is  that  of  Ommerschans , 
9  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Meppel,  in  the  province  of  Over-Yssel.  The  latter  is 
partly  used  as  a  penal  settlement  for  the  idle  and  the  disorderly,  and  partly 
as  a  reformatory  for  beggars. 

Beyond  Steenwyk  the  line  turns  to  the  N.W.  71  M.  Peperga- 
OLdernarkt;T2yoM.  Wolvega;  78M.  OudeSc/ioot.— From (80 V2M.) 
Heerenveen^  situated  in  a  pretty  district,  with  numerous  country- 
seats,  a  tramway  runs  to  Sneek  (p.  344),  and  another  to  Vrachten 
(II/2-2  hrs. ).  —  To  the  left  are  several  lakes,  the  largest  of  which  is  the 
Sneeker  Meer.  Numerous  windmills  are  used  for  purposes  of  drainage. 
From  (87  M.)  Akkrum,  the  next  station,  a  canal-boat  runs  to  Sneek 
(p.  344)  and  to  Bolsward  (Wynherg),  with  5300  inhab.  and  two 
churches  (15th  and  13th  cent.),  which  contain  richly-carved  late- 
Gothic  choir-stalls  (about  1450),  fine  tombstones,  etc.  The  *Stad- 
huis  (1614-16)  is  the  finest  Renaissance  building  in  Friesland.  — 
90  m.  Grouw-lrnsum ;  93  M.  Wirdum. 

98  M.  Leeuwarden.  see  p.  344. 

The  Meppel  and  Gkoningen  Line  at  first  turns  towards  the  E. , 
and  follows  the  course  of  the  small  Oude  Diep.  At  (70  M.  from 
Amersfoort)  Eoogeveen  the  stream  is  quitted ,  and  the  line  turns 
to  the  N.  —  Between  (77  M.)  Beilen  and  Hooghalen  the  Oranje 
Kanaal  is  crossed. 

86  M.  Assen  (*Somer),  a  town  with  7800  inhab.  ,  partly  con- 
cealed by  wood  ,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Drenthe.  The 
tumuli  or  'giants'  graves'  at  Rolde  (Y2  lir.'s  drive  from  Assen), 
and  at  Gieten,  Eext,  Borger,  etc.,  are  objects  of  great  interest  to 
the  antiquarian.  The  huge  stones  which  mark  these  spots  recall 
those  of  Stouehenge. 


350    Route  45.  (iRONlNGEN.  From  Am.^terdam 

Beyond  Asscn  the  lino  follows  the  course  of  the  Oude  Aa ,  at 
some  distance  from  the  stream.  Just  hefore  reaching  (93  M.)  Vries- 
Zuidlaren  we  obtain  a  view  of  an  excellent  specimen  of  a  tumulus, 
close  to  the  railway.    95V2  M.  De  Punt ;  98  M.  Haren. 

102  M.  Groningen.  —  Hotels.  *Doklen,  in  the  Groote  Markt, 
R.  &  B.  13/4,  L.  &  A.  3/4,  D.  lV2fl. ;  ^Fkigge,  Hecrcnstraat,  R.,  L.,  &  A. 
i^/i-i'^li,  B.  3/4,  D.  incl.  wine  Si/.j  11.;  *Zeven  Pkovincikn  ,  in  the  Groote 
Markt ;t'Wapen  vanjAmstekdam;  '  Blaauwe  Paard,  near  (he  Nieuwc  Kerk, 
unpretending. 

Cafes-Restaurants,  ffackerbrau,  Groote  M&Tkt-^  Willems,  Heerenatraat ; 
Van  dcr  t^liiis,  Vischmarkt;  De  Boer,  Groote  JMarkt;  Bavaria,  Guldcnstraat ; 
Osnabriicker  Bierhalle,  Stoeldraaierstraat. 

Tramway  from  the  station  to  the  Groote  Markt  and  thence  to  the 
Ebbiinjeport  and  the  station  of  the  Delfzyl  railway  (10  c),  with  a  branch 
to  the  Sterrcbosch  (12  c). 

Groninyen ,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  with 
54,300  inhab.  (7000  Rom.  Oath.,  3000  Jews),  lies  at  the  junction  of 
ilm  Drenthe'sche  Aa,  or  Hoornsche  Diep,  and  iheHunse,  or  Drentsche 
Diep.  The  latter  is  called  Reitdiep  from  this  point  to  its  mouth,  and 
being  converted  into  a  canal,  with  two  locks,  is  navigable  for  large 
sea-going  vessels.  Rape-seed  and  grain  are  the  staple  commodities  of 
the  place.  The  peasants  who  cultivate  the  former  are  generally  free- 
holders, and  often  remarkably  well-to-do,  many  of  them  possessing 
10-20  horses.  The  old  fortifications  have  been  converted  into  boule- 
vards and  gardens. 

The  GiiooTE  Maiikt,  or  market-place,  is  one  of  the  most  spacious 
in  Holland.  The  Church  of  St.  Martin  (PI.  C,  2)  situated  here  is  a 
fine  Gothic  structure  with  a  lofty  tower  (432  ft.),  erected  after  a 
fire  in  1627.  Opposite  to  it  is  the  extensive  Stadhuis  (PI.  C,  2), 
restored  in  1787-1810.  Behind  is  the  elegant  Collectehuis  (PI.  C, 
D,  2)  of  1635.  Many  of  the  private  houses  (17th  cent.,  etc.)  are 
of  interest  to  the  student  of  architecture. 

The  University  (PI.  C,  3),  founded  in  1614,  possesses  an  excel- 
lent natural  history  museum ,  which  is  established  in  the  hand- 
some academy  buildings  (erec/ted  in  1851) ,  with  their  fine  Ionic 
colonnade.  There  are  39  professors  and  about  460  students.  A  collec- 
tion of  Germanic  antiquities  is  in  course  of  formation.  Among  the 
treasures  of  the  library  is  a  copy  of  the  New  Testament  of  Erasmus 
with  marginal  annotations  by  Lutlier.  —  Opposite  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  Broederkerk,  adorned  with  large  pictures  of  the  Passion  by 
L.  Hendricx  (1865). 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  supported  chiefly  by  voluntary 
contributions,  educates  200  pupils.  Public  examinations  on  Wed- 
nesdays, 11-12  o'clock.  A  small  monument  to  the  founder  Guyot 
has  been  erected  in  the  ox-market  (PI.  C,  3),  in  front  of  the  building. 

To  the  N.  is  tlie  Noorderkerk  (PI.  B,  3),  built  in  1660-64  on  the 
plan  of  the  church  of  the  same  name  in  Amsterdam.  —  To  the  S. 
is  the  Aa-Kerk  (PI.  B.  2),  with  a  curious  tower  of  1712. 

The  Harbour  (Ooster,   Noorder,   Zuider  Haven)  generally  pre- 


^ 


T^^^^K 


^'^K 


\  \ 


d 


to  Groningen.  (tRONINGEN.  45.  Route.    351 

seats  a  busy  scene.  Extensive  warelionses  have  recently  been 
erected  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town.  —  The  projecting  corner  of  a 
street  in  the  vicinity,  called  the  'owde  kiek  iri't  jat  straaV  ('the  old 
peep  into  the  harbour  street'),  is  adorned  with  the  head  of  a 
bearded  man,  with  the  inscription  '/cfc  kiek  noch  in'V  ('I  still  peep 
into  it').  It  is  said  to  commemorate  a  siege  by  the  Bishop  of  Miinster 
and  the  electoral  troops  of  Cologne  in  1672 ,  when  the  besiegers 
were  compelled  to  retreat,  as  they  were  unable  to  prevent  supplies 
being  brought  into  the  town  by  the  Reiddiep.  The  inscription  im- 
ports, that,  as  long  as  the  harbour  is  free  from  enemies,  no  real 
danger  from  besiegers  need  be  apprehended. 

Fkom  GkuNingen  to  Delfzyl,  I8V2  M.,  railway  iu  1^4  lir.  The  train 
skirts  the  Eems-Kaiiaal,  passing  several  unimportant  stations.  —  Delfzyl  lies 
on  the  DoUart,  a  gulf  6  M.  broad,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ems,  formed  in 
1277  by  an  inundation.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Dollart  lies  Emden 
(see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany). 

To  the  N.  W.  of  Groningen  lies  the  ialand  and  bathing-resort  of 
Schiermonnik-Oog  (7»n,  in  the  village;  Bad/idlel.,  IV2  M.  from  the  village, 
pens,  at  both  B^/z  11.),  frequented  chiefly  by  the  Dutch  themselves.  A 
steamer  plies  thither  in  about  6  hrs. ;  landing  difficult. 

46.  From  Groningen  to  Bremen. 

107  M.  Dutch  Railway  to  Nieuweschans  or  Neuschanz ,  29  M.  ,  in 
l-l'/4  br.  (fares  2  11.  35,  1  fl.  90,  1  fl.  20c.)5  Oldenbubg  Railway  to  Bremen., 
78  M.,  in  33/4  brs.  (fares  7  marks  60,  5  m.  70,  3  m.  80  pf.) 

Groningen.,  p.  350.  The  line  generally  skirts  a  canal  called  the 
Schuiten  or  Winschoter  Diep.  That  part  of  the  province  of  Groningen 
which  lies  to  the  8.  of  the  railway  has  been  converted ,  iu  the 
course  of  the  present  cent.  ,  by  dint  of  unremitting  industry ,  from 
a  barren  waste  into  fruitful  fields.  New  villages  are  constantly 
springing  up  here.  —  7^2  M.  Kropswolde ;  9  M.  Hoogezand ;  14  M. 
Zuidbroek  (with  a  brick  church  of  the  13th  cent.) ;  18  M.  Scheemda  ; 
21  M.  Win.'ichoten  (Hotel  Wissemann),  also  with  a  13th  cent,  brick 
church,  is  connected  by  a  steam-tramway  with  Finsterwolde. 

About  IV2  M.  from  Winschoten ,  at  Heiiigerlee,  a  monument  was 
erected  in  1873  to  commemorate  the  first  victory  of  the  Netherlanders  under 
Louis  of  Nassau,  brother  of  William  the  Silent,  over  the  Spaniards  in  1568, 
with  which  the  80  years'  struggle  for  liberty  began.  The  monument  re- 
presents Batavia  with  the  flag  of  liberty,  at  the  side  of  the  latter  an  en- 
raged lion 5  underneath,  the  dying  Adolph  of  Nassau,  youngest  brother 
of  William  the  Silent,  who  fell  during  the  battle. 

281/2  M.  Nieuwesclians,  German  Neuachanz^  is  the  last  place  in 
Holland. 

3IY2M.  Z?wnde;35M.  Weener ;  40  M.  Ihrhove.  Thence,  via  Leer 
and  Oldenburg^  to  Bremen,  see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany. 

47.  From  Amsterdam  and  Arnhem  to  Zutphen 
and  Kheine. 

Dutch  State  Railway.  From  Amsterdam  to  Zutp?ien  (66  M.),  rail- 
way in  2>/3-23  4  hrs.;  from  Arnhem  to  Zutphen,  19  M.,  railway  in  V2-I  hr. 
(from  Amsterdam  via  Arnhem  to  Zutphen  ,  75  M. ,  express  in  2V2  hrs.). 
—  From  Zutphen  to  lifieine,  58  M.,  in  2'/2-3'/2  hrs. 


352     Route  47.  ArELPOORN.  From  Avu^ierdxin 

This  is  the  route  followed  by  the  night  express-trains  between  Amster- 
dam or  IJotterdam  and  tlie  whole  of  N.  Germany.  From  Amsterdam  to 
Berlin,  niplit-cx press  in  12  hrs.  (fares  57  m.  30,  43'm.  30  pf.)^  from  Rotter- 
dam to  Berlin  express  in  14  lirs.  (fares  Gl  m.  60  pf.,  47  m.). 

From  Amsterrlam  to (28^ /2M. )  Amersfoort,  see  R.  45.--38'/2  M. 
Barneveld,  pleasantly  situated  to  the  8.  of  the  station. 

55  M.  Apeldoorn  (7)e  Moriaan;  Hotel  Apcldoorn ;  Het  Loo  or 
Keizerskroon  and  J)e  Nieuxve  Kroon,  near  tlic  chateau),  a  large  and 
wcaltliy  village  with  3000  inhab. .  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  Grift  and  the  Dieren  Canal.  The  produce  of  its  numerous 
paper-mills  is  principally  exported  to  the  K.  Indies.  Near  Apel- 
doorn is  the  royal  chateau  of  Loo,  the  favourite  residence  of  Wil- 
liam I.  and  William  III.  The  palace  is  shown  only  in  the  absence 
of  the  queen,  but  visitors  are  admitted  to  the  *Park  daily  after 
10  a.m.   on  application  to  the  gardener. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Dieren  Canal.  —  03  M.  Voorst,  pret- 
tily situated,  with  numerous  villas.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Yssel 
by  an  imposing  bridge,  together  with  the  Arnhem  line  (see  below). 
66  M.  Zutphen,  see  below. 

AiiNHEM,  see  p.  357.  —  The  train  follows  the  direction  of  the 
Nexv  or  Guelders  Yssel,  an  arm  of  the  Rhine  which  begins  above 
Arnhem  and  owes  its  origin  to  a  canal  constructed  by  the  Roman 
general  Drusus  in  B.  C.  13  to  connect  the  Rhine  with  the  Zuider- 
zee. The  line,  however,  seldom  touches  the  river.  —  4  M.  Velp, 
see  p.  359.  Numerous  pleasant  country-houses  are  passed.  — 
7'/2  M.  De  Steeg,  the  station  for  Rhcdersteeg,  a  popular  Dutch 
watering-place,  with  the  chateau  of  Rhederoord  (*De  Engel  Inn). 
A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  De  Steeg  through  the  pretty 
'Middachten  Allee'  to  Dieren,  the  next  station.  —  lO'/oM.  Dieren, 
with  several  attractive  villas.  Near  Dieren  is  the  hydropathic  esta- 
blishment of  Laag  Soeren. 

A  STr.AMTKAMWAYruns  from  Dieren  to  Doeshorgh  (Hotel  Gelria),  a  small 
town  at  the  union  of  the  Old  and  the  New  Yssel,  which  was  stormed  by 
the  Spaniards  in  1585,  and  then  along  the  Old  Yssel  to  Dentichem  (p.  3G7) 
and  (2  hrs.)  Terhorgh. 

14  M.  Brummen,  with  the  villas  of  numerous  wealthy  Dutch 
merchants.  To  the  E.  rise  the  liills  of  the  Veluwc  (p.  357).  The 
train  crosses  the  Yssel  together  with  the  Apeldoorn  line  (see  above). 

19  M.  Zutphen  {^'Keizerskroon,  R.&  15.  I3/4,  D.  i^j^^-;  Hollandsche 
Tuin,  in  the  Groenmarkt.  R.  &  B.  I74-21/4,  D.  incl.  wine  21/4  fl. ; 
Soleil,  R.  &  B.  2-21/2,  I>.  incl.  wine  21/2  A-)'  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Berkel  and  the  Yssel,  is  a  town  with  17,200  inhab., 
with  remains  of  its  medieval  fortifications  on  thcl^crkel  and  beyond. 
The  most  important  edifice  is  the  (7mTc//  of  St.  Walhurgis,  or  Groote 
Kerk,  dating  from  the  12th  century.  It  contains  a  copper  *Font  sup- 
ported by  lions,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  cast  in  1527,  a  Gothic 
candelabrum  of  gilded  iron  (spoiled  by  its  conversion  into  gas- 
brackets) ,  half-relief  sculptures  on  the  pulpit ,  and  a  handsome 
modem  monument  of  the   Van   Heeckeren    family,    all    of  which 


to  Rheine.  ZUTPHEN.  47.  Route.     353 

are  worthy  of  inspection.  The  chapter-house,  in  which  the  capitals 
of  the  columns  are  noticeahle,  contains  the  old  *Library,  dating 
from  pre-Reformation  days ;  the  hooks  (about  400 ,  including 
valuable  MSS.  and  incunabula)  are  chained  to  the  desks.  The 
upper  part  of  the  tower  dates  from  1637,  its  predecessor  having 
been  destroyed  by  lightning.  The  "Wynhuis  Tower  of  the  Stadhuis, 
with  its  two  galleries,  contains  a  good  set  of  chimes.  The  vestibule, 
on  the  Lange  Hoofdstraat,  dates  from  1660 :  on  the  ground-floor  is 
the  weigh-house.  Several  of  the  brick  buildings  (16-17th  cent.)  in 
tlie  Zaadmarkt,  Groenmarkt,  etc.,  are  architecturallv  interesting. 
The  timber  which  is  floated  in  rafts  from  the  Black  Forest  down  the 
Rhine  and  Yssel  forms  the  chief  article  of  commerce  at  Zutphen. 

About  21/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Zutphen  is  situated  the  agricultural  colony 
of  Nederlandsch  Mettray,  a  Protestant  institution  founded  in  1851  for  the 
education  of  poor  boys  and  foundlings.  It  was  first  instituted  by  Hr. 
Schutler,  who  presented  16,000  fl.  for  the  purpose,  and  has  since  been 
liberally  supported  and  extended  by  private  contributions.  The  estate  of 
Ri/sselt,  about  50  acres  in  area,  has  been  purchased  by  the  society,  and 
upwards  of  150  boys  are  educated  here  (about  12  in  each  house). 

Fbom  Zctphen  to  Winteeswtk,  2772  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  5  min. 
Stations  :  Vorden,  Ruurlo  (junction  for  Zeeenaar,  ■p.  3'ol).Lich(evoo)'de-Groenlo. 
The  line  is  prolonged  from  Winterswyk  to  Bocholt  and  Wesel  (p.  363)  and 
also  to  Dorsten.    No  quick  trains. 


Fkom  Zutphbn  to  Zwollb,  281/2  M.,  railway  in  i^J^-i^j^  hr. 
(fares  1  fl.  50,   1  fl.  20,  65  c).  —  5  M.  Gorsel. 

10  M.  Deventer  (Enpef ;  Moriaan ;  DeKeizer,  at  the  station,  well 
spoken  of),  situated  on  the  frontier  of  Guelders  and  Over-Yssel  [i.e. 
'beyond  the  Yssel'),  is  a  clean  and  prosperous  town  with  23,000 
iiihab.,  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  philologist  Jacob  Gronovius 
(1645-1716),  and  the  theologian  Gerrit  Groote  (1340-84).  The  large 
Gothic  *  Groote  Kerk,  or  church  of  St.  Lebuinus,  has  a  Romanesque 
crypt  of  the  end  of  the  11th  cent,  and  a  fine  Gothic  tower  of  the  15th 
cent. ;  the  other  tower  is  unfinished.  The  Berg  Kerk  has  two  late- 
Romanesque  towers.  The  Stadhuis  contains  a  good  picture  by  Ter- 
burg,  who  was  burgomaster  of  Deventer  in  his  later  years  and  died 
here  in  1681.  The  neighbouring  Police  Office  is  a  Renaissance 
tMliflce  of  1632.  In  the  'Brink',  the  finest  square  in  the  town,  are 
the  late-Gothic  Weigh-House  of  1528  (now  a  gymnasium),  with  a 
large  outside  staircase  of  1643-44,  and  several  elegant  private  houses 
('Three  Golden  Herrings',  etc.).  The  town  possesses  several  thjiving 
iron-foundries  and  carpet-manufactories.  Deventer  is  locally  famous 
for  its  honeycakes,  a  kind  of  gingerbread,  tons  of  which  are  annually 
sent  to  different  parts  of  Holland. 

In  the  church  of  the  village  of  Bathmen,  6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Deventer, 
some  frescoes  of  the  14th  cent.  (1379?)  were  brought  to  light  in  1870. 

31  M.  Diepenveen,  I1/2  M.  from  the  station;  16  M.  Olst,  with 
4400  inhab.  and  extensive  brick-fields.  —  20  M.  Wyhe  (De  Bra- 
bants  che  Wagen;  Greeve),  a  straggling  village  with  4000  inhab., 
in  a  beautifully-wooded  district  with  numerous  villas  ('Buiten- 

Baedekek^s  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  23 


354     Route  48.  DIEMERMEER.         From  Amsterdam 

plaatsen').  — 24  M.  Windesheim ,  formerly  the  seat  of  a  convent. 
—  28V2  M.  Zwolle,  see  p.  347. 


From  Zutphbn  to  Rhbinb.  The  line  traverses  a  district  inter- 
sected by  numerous  canals.  Several  unimportant  stations.  Near 
Delden  (Hotel  Carelshaven)  is  the  chateau  of  Twickel,  with  a  pretty 
park.  At  (28  M.  from  Zutphen)  Hengelo  our  line  intersects  the  line 
from  Miinster  to  Almelo  and  ZwoUe  (p.  347).  Beyond  Oldenzaal 
the  line  crosses  the  Prussian  frontier.  Gildehaus  is  the  first  German 
station. 

44  M.  Bentheim  (Bellevue;  *Bad  Bentheim),  a  small  and  pic- 
turesquely-situated tov^n,  is  commanded  hy  a  chateau  ,  the  oldest 
parts  of  which  are  said  to  date  from  the  10th  century.  The  Bent- 
heim mineral  spring  is  efficacious  in  cases  of  gout  and  rheumatism. 
The  German  custom-house  examination  takes  place  here. 

Next  station  Schuttorf.  At  (53  M.)  Salzbergen  our  train  reaches 
the  "Westphaliau  Railway ,  which  it  then  follows  to  Rheine. 

58  M.  Rheine  (*H6tel  Schulze ;  *Railway  Restaurant),  see 
Baedeker's  Northern  Germany. 

48.  From  Amsterdam  or  Rotterdam  to  Utrecht 
and  Arnhem. 

Railway  Irom  Amsterdam  to  (22  M.)  Utrecht  in  ^A-lV*  hr.  (fares  1  fl.  W, 

1  fl.  40,  90  c.).     From  Rotterdam  to   (38  M.)  Utrecht  in  IV4-I3/4  hr.   (fares 

2  fl.  70,  2  fl.  5,  1  fl.  35  c).     From  Utrecht  to   (35  M.)  Arnhem  in  1-1 1/2  hr. 
(fares  2  fl.  90,  2  fl.  20,  1  fl.  50  c).    The  express-fares  are  one-fifth  higher. 

Feom  Amsterdam  to  Utrecht.  The  immediate  environs  of  Am- 
sterdam consist  chiefly  of  polders  (p.  xxix).  The  most  remarkable 
of  these ,  and  one  of  the  lowest  in  Holland ,  is  the  Diemermeer 
(16  ft.  below  the  mean  sea-level),  the  W.  side  of  which  the  train 
skirts  soon  after  quitting  the  station.  Extensive  nurseries  and 
kitchen-gardens,  intersected  by  numerous  canals ,  are  also  passed. 
The  old  road,  of  which  little  is  seen  from  the  railway ,  is  bordered 
with  a  succession  of  villas,  summer-houses,  and  gardens,  most  of 
them  the  property  of  wealthy  merchants  of  Amsterdam,  and  extend- 
ing the  whole  way  to  Utrecht.  Numerous  steamboats  ply  on  the 
Vecht,  and  an  excursion  in  one  of  them,  e.  g.  from  Utrecht  to 
Nieuwersluis,  is  very  enjoyable.  —  The  stations  are  Abcoude,  Loenen- 
Vreeland,  Nieuwersluis  (where  the  train  crosses  the  Vecht),  Breu- 
kelen  (see  p.  356),  and  Maarssen. 

22  M.  Utrecht,  see  R.  50. 

From  RotterdajiI  TO  Utrecht.  The  train  starts  from  the  Rhenish 
Station  on  the  Maas  (PI.  G,  3),  and  traverses  a  district  of  canals 
and  pastures.  41/2  M.  Capelle;  7  M.  Nieuwerkerk.  The  line  skirts 
the  E.  side  of  the  extensive  Zuidjplas-P older.  Beyond  (10  M.) 
Moordrecht  the  Kromme  Gouw  is  crossed. 

121/2  M-  Gouda,  commonly  called  Ter-Gouw  (*i)c  Zalm,  in  the 


to  Arnhem.  GOUDA.  48.  Route.     355 

market-place,  R.,  L.,  A.,  S^B.  21/4,  ^^h  IV2,  !>•  1^/4-  omn.  >/4fl."), 
a  town  of  some  importance  at  the  confluence  of  the  Gouw  and  the 
Yssel  (which  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  river  of  that  name 
in  Guelders,  seep.  352),  with  17,400  inhab.,  is  encircled  with  fine 
old  trees.  Two  hours  suffice  to  inspect  the  stained  glass  in  the  Groote 
Kerk  and  visit  the  Museum.  —  On  leaving  the  railway-station  we 
take  the  street  to  the  left,  which  soon  turns  to  the  right  and  leads 
across  several  canals  to  (V4  M.)  the  market-place,  with  the  town- 
hall  (see  below).  Near  it  is  the  Groote  Kerk;  entrance  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  choir;  the  sacristan  (20c.)  lives  at  No.  33  A,  opposite. 

The  Groote  Keek  (St.  John),  founded  in  1485,  and  rebuilt 
after  a  fire  in  1552,  is  a  striking  example  of  late-mediaeval  art. 
The  round  -  arched  arcades  are  borne  by  thirty-six  circular  pillars. 
The  lofty  barrel-vaulting  is  of  wood.  The  beautiful  *Stained-glass 
Windows  illustrate  the  transition  from  the  ecclesiastical  style  of 
glass-painting  to  the  heraldic  and  allegorical  style  of  secular  art  at 
that  period. 

There  are  in  all  29  large  and  13  smaller  stained- glass  windows,  pre- 
sented by  princes,  towns,  and  private  individuals  after  the  above-men- 
tioned fire.  The  best  of  these  (12  in  number)  were  executed  by  the  bro- 
thers Wotifer  and  Dirk  Craheth  in  1555-77;  the  others  being  the  work  of 
other  more  or  less  well-known  masters  (Lambert  van  Jfoort,  Willetn 
Tyhaut)  down  to  1603.  Some  of  them  have  unfortunately  been  indifferently 
restored  in  the  17th  cent,  and  later.  The  subjects  of  the  older  windows 
are  Scriptural,  with  figures  of  saints  and  of  the  donors,  those  of  the  later 
are  armorial  bearings  or  allegorical  representations.  The  following  are 
by  the  brothers  Crabeth:  No.  5.  (beginning  from  the  main  entrance), 
Solomon  and  the  Queen  of  Sheba;  6.  Judith  and  Holofernes;  7.  Last 
Supper,  presented  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  whose  portrait  it  contains; 
8.  Punishment  of  Heliodorus,  the  desecrator  of  the  temple;  12.  (farther 
on,  in  the  retro-choir)  Nativity;  14.  Preaching  of  John  the  Baptist; 
15.  Baptism  of  Christ;  16.  Preaching  of  Christ;  18.  John  the  Baptist  in 
prison;  22.  Christ  driving  the  merchants  and  money-changers  out  of  the 
Temple,  a  gift  of  William  I.  of  Orange,  afterwards  enlarged ;  23.  Christ 
washing  the  feet  of  the  Disciples;  at  the  top,  Elijah's  sacrifice  ;  24.  Below, 
Peter  and  John  healing  the  lame  man ;  above,  Philip  baptising  the 
Ethiopian  eunuch.  —  The  coloured  drawings  and  the  original  cartoons 
of  the  brothers  Crabeth  are  preserved  in  the  sacristy.  —  The  Municipal 
Library,  a  considerable  collection,  is  kept  in  an  adjoining  room. 

The  late-Gothic  Stadhuis  (1449-59)  in  the  middle  of  the  markPt- 
place,  with  a  Renaissance  outside  staircase,  is  a  most  noteworthy 
building  by  Cools.  Behind  it  is  the  Meat  Market.  The  tasteful 
Weigh-house,  by  Pieter  Post,  also  in  the  market-place,  is  adorned 
with  a  masterly  relief  by  Earth.  Eggers. 

The  Towx  Museum  (adm.  25  c),  in  the  market-place,  chiefly 
contains  antiquities  connected  with  the  town,  and  a  few  corporation- 
pictures  and  portraits  by  Wouter  Crabeth  the  Younger,  Corn.  Ketel 
(b.  at  Goudain  1578),  and  others.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  are 
a  corporation-piece  by  Ferd.  Bol,  and  a  fine  enamelled  and  gilded 
chalice  and  paten,  presented  to  the  'shooters^  guild'  of  Gouda  by 
the  Countess  Jacqueline  of  Bavaria  in  1425.  —  The  adjacent  Or- 
phanage contains  a  good  regent-piece  by  J.  Yerzyl. 

23* 


356     Route  48.  WOERDEN.  From  Amsterdam 

A  bronze  statue  of  Cornells  Houtman,  the  founder  of  the  Dutch 
E.  Indian  trade  (end  of  the  16th  cent.),  and  one  of  his  brother 
Frederik,  both  natives  of  Gouda,  were  erected  here  in  1880,  from 
models  by  Strackee  of  Amsterdam. 

The  staple  commodities  of  Gouda  are  bricks  (klinkers)^  the  ma- 
terial for  which  is  obtained  from  the  muddy  bed  of  the  Yssel,  the 
deposits  of  which  are  admirably  adapted  for  the  purpose.  The  cheese 
named  after  this  town  is  of  inferior  quality.  The  earthenware  pipes 
of  Gouda  (Goudsche  Pypen)  are  celebrated 

From  Godda  to  the  Hague,  I7V2M..  Lranch-line  of  the  Ehyn-Spoorweg 
in  V2-V4  lir.  (fares  1  fl.  45,  1  fl.  15,  70  c).  Stations  Zevenhuizen- Moer- 
kapelle,  Zoetermeer-  Zegicaard  ^  Voorburg,  and  the  Hague  (p.  259).  Tram- 
way to  Scheveningen  in  connection  with  th-  trains,  see  p.  276. 

Gouda  is  connected  by  steam-tramway  with  ^otfe^raren  (p.  258;  40  min.), 
on  the  railway  from  Leyden  to  "Utrecht,  and  with  Oudeicaier  (see  below; 
1  hr.,  eight  times  daily). 

20  M.  Oudewater ,  on  the  Yssel ,  was  the  birthplace  of  Ar- 
minius,  after  whom  the  'Remonstrants'  (p.  378)  were  called  Armin- 
ians.  A  picture  in  the  Stadhuis  by  Dirk  Stoop  commemorates  the 
brutal  excesses  committed  here  by  the  Spaniards  in  1575. 

24  M.  Woerden,  with  4000  inhab.,  situated  on  the  'Old  Rhine', 
formerly  a  fortress ,  was  captured  and  cruelly  treated  by  the  army 
of  Louis  XIV.  under  Marshal  Luxembourg  in  1672  (an  event  de- 
scribed by  Voltaire).  In  1813  it  was  occupied  by  the  Dutch,  but 
taken  by  the  French  under  General  Molitor  and  again  plundered. 
The  fortifications  have  now  been  demolished,  and  their  site  converted 
into  public  promenades,  which  afford  a  fine  view  of  the  town  and 
its  environs.  The  former  town-hall  (1501  and  1614)  is  a  quaint  and 
picturesque  little  building,  with  an  old  pillory  in  front  of  it ;  the 
carved  panelling  of  the  council-chamber  dates  from  1610. " —  From 
Woerden  to  Leyden,  see  p.  258. 

Beyond  (2572  M.)  Harmelen  the  canals  become  rarer ,  and  the 
country  more  undulating  and  agricultural.  The  Amsterdam  line 
diverges  here,  and  unites  with  the  direct  line  from  Utrecht  to  Am- 
sterdam at  Stat.  Breukelen  (p.  354). 

38  M.  Utrecht,  see  R.  50. 

From  Utrecht  to  Arnhem.  The  train  now  crosses  the  canal 
(Vaartsche  Rhyn)  which  connects  Utrecht  with  the  Lek  (as  the  prin- 
cipal branch  of  the  Rhine  is  called). 

71/2  M.  Zeist,  a  picturesque  and  thriving  village,  but  not  visible 
from  the  railway  (tramway  to  Driebergen,  see  p.  366 ;  to  Utrecht, 
see  p.  362).  It  is  the  seat  of  a  Moravian  settlement  (about  260 
members),  established  here  in  1746,  with  which  a  good  school  is 
connected.  The  community  resides  in  a  pile  of  contiguous  build- 
ings, possessing  many  of  their  goods  in  common,  and  strictly  ob- 
serving the  precepts  of  their  sect.  They  somewhat  resemble  the 
Quakers  of  England,  and  are  remarkable  for  the  purity  and  simpli- 
city of  their  lives.  Married  women,  widows,  and  young  girls  are  dis- 


oEloiu. 
■■Bhederoord  A  Midda^ten  «» ^  Zutphpn 


WHT  -ujioq^sru.TBAV 


to  ArnJiem.  ARNHEM.  48.  Boute.     357 

tinguished  by  a  difference  of  costume.  The  environs  are  carefully 
cultivated.  Gardens,  orchards,  plantations,  corn-fields,  pastures, 
and  villas  are  passed  in  rapid  succession.  During  the  harvest  the 
corn  is  stacked  in  a  peculiar  manner,  and  protected  by  roofs. 

14  M.  Maarshergen;  21  M.  Veenendaal,  noted  for  its  honey 
(route  to  Amersfoort,  see  p.  373);  29  M.  Ede. 

From  Ede  a  tramway  runs  to  Wagtninjen,  an  old  town  41/2  M.  to  the 
S.,  connected  with  the  Rhine  by  a  short  canal.  It  is  the  seat  of  an  agri- 
cultural institution,  "S  Byks  Landbouwschool^-wiih  an  experimental  station 
and  a  collection  of  agricultural  objects  (including  a  series  illustrating  the 
development  of  the  plough). 

The  Grebbe  (Hotel  Grebbe,  well  spoken  of),  between  Wageningen  and 
Rhenen,  (p.  373),  aflbrds  pleasant  wood-walks.  On  the  river  bank,  about 
halfway  between  the  two  places,  rises  the  Eeimenberg,  an  eminence  com- 
manding an  extensive  view  over  the  Veluwe.  A  bench  at  the  summit, 
called  the  Koningsta/el,  derives  its  name  from  the  Elector  Palatine  Frederick, 
King  of  Bohemia,  who,  having  been  banished  from  his  dominions  after 
the  Battle  of  the  White  Hill,  near  Prague,  in  1620,  sought  an  asylum  with 
his  nncle  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange,  aud  lived  in  retirement  at  Rhenen. 
Some  of  the  events  in  his  romantic  career  are  well  described  by  G.  P.  R. 
James  in  his  'Heidelberg'. 

Near  (31  M.)  Wolfhezen  is  an  extensive  heath  stretching  to 
the  Zuiderzee,  which  has  been  frequently  used  as  a  military  exer- 
cising-ground  by  Dutch  and  French  armies.  One  of  the  latter,  by 
command  of  Marshal  Marmont  in  1805,  threw  up  a  lofty  mound 
on  the  heights  between  Ede  and  Veenendaal,  to  commemorate  the 
coronation  of  Napoleon  I. ;  an  adjacent  village  also  received  the 
name  of  'Austerlitz'.  33  M.  Oosteroeek,  with  numerous  villas. 
Near  it  are  the  mansion  of  Duno  and  the  chateau  of  Doorwerth, 
with  its  double  towers.  As  Arnhem  Is  approached  the  train  com- 
mands several  picturesque  glimpses  of  the  Rhine  on  the  right,  and 
of  Sonsbeek  (p.  359)  on  the  left.  The  fertile  district  to  the  right, 
enclosed  by  several  branches  of  the  Rhine,  is  known  as  the  Betuxve 
or  'good  island',  while  the  sandy  tract  to  the  N.,  between  Arnhem 
aud  the  Zuiderzee,  is  called  the  Veluwe.  or  'barren  island'. 

35  M.  Arnhem.  —  Hotels.  *Bellevue  (Pi.  d),  in  an  open  situation 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  commanding  a  line  view  and  suitable  for  a 
prolonged  stay,  R.  &  L.  2-10  fl.,  A.  25-40  c.  D.  21/2,  pens.  6,  board  4  ll., 
omn.  40  c.;  *H6tel  de  Zok  (du  Soleil;  PI.  a),  near  the  bridge-of-boats, 
outside  the  town  on  the  X.W.  side,  and  the  nearest  to  the  station  and 
the  pier  of  the  Netherlands  Steamboat  Co.,  R.  I'/s  A.,  L.  30,  A.  25,  B.  75 
c,  D.  2  fl. ;  Hotel  des  Pays-Bas  (PI.  b),  in  the  Groote  Slarkt,  not  far  from 
the  pier  of  the  Cologne  and  Dusseldorf  Steamboat  Co. ;  =Zwykshoofo 
(PL  c  ;  'Boar's  Head),  in  the  town,  E.  &  B.  2,  D.  IV2  A. ;  *De  Paauw 
('Peacock'),  near  the  station,  a  small  second-class  inn.  —  For  a  long 
stav:  *H6tel  Gaeni  Plasten  en  VoGELTui>f,  on  the  Velp  road,  R.  1*2-5'  2, 
L.  &  A.  80  c,  B.  3/4,  dej.  17^,  D.  21/4,  pens.  6V2-10V-A  board  4,  omn.  11/4  d. 

Restaurants.     ~Cafi  Central^  Vyzelstraat  •,  Railway  Restaurant. 

Tramways  through  the  town  and  to  Velp  (p.  359).  —  Steam  Tramways 
to  Ede  and  Wageningen  (see  above),  and  via  Oosterbeek  (see  abovel,  Renkum, 
Wageningen.,  and  Rhenen  (p.  373),  to  Driebergen.  (p.  366). 

Cab  within  the  town,  with  56lb3.  of  luggage,  75  c.  ;  toKlarenbeek  and 
Rozendaal ,  via  the  Steenen  Tafel ,  returning  by  Bronbeek  and  Velp  (2'/4- 
2V2  hrs.),  about  3  fl. 

Steamers  to  Nymegen  and  Rotterdam,  and  also  up  the  Rhine,  once 
or  twice  daily  in  summer. 


358     Route  48.  ARNHEM. 

Arnhem^  perhaps  the  Roman  Arenacum^  with  50,000  iiihab.  {}ji 
Rom.  Cath.),  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Guelders,  is 
still  the  capital  of  the  Dutch  province  of  that  name,  whose  inhabi- 
tants are  described  by  an  old  proverb  as  ^Hooy  van  moed,  klein  van 
yoed,  ten  zwaard  in  de  hand,  is  't  wapen  van  Gelderland'  ( 'Great  in 
courage,  poor  in  goods,  sword  in  hand,  such  is  the  motto  of  Guelder- 
land').  The  town  lies  on  the  S.  slopes  of  the  Veluwe  range  of  hills, 
and  was  re -fortified  by  General  Coehorn  at  the  beginning  of  the 
18th  cent.,  after  it  had  been  taken  by  the  French  in  1672.  The 
town,  which  was  garrisoned  by  French  troops ,  was  taken  on  13th 
Nov.,  1838,  by  Billow's  corps  of  the  Prussian  army,  the  same  which 
distinguished  itself  at  the  Battle  of  Waterloo. 

Arnhem,  which  is  one  of  the  most  attractive -looking  towns  in 
Holland,  is  a  favourite  residence  of  Dutch  'nabobs'  from  the  East 
Indies.  The  old  fortifications  have  been  converted  into  promenades, 
and  handsome  new  buildings  are  springing  up  on  all  sides.  The  old 
late-Gothic  Sehis  Gate  (exterior  front  1642),  at  the  end  of  the  Groote 
Markt,  has  been  preserved. 

Leaving  the  station  and  bearing  to  the  left,  we  pass  through 
several  fine  new  streets  and  soon  reach  the  Groote  Maekt  ,  in 
which  the  Groote  Kerk  and  the  Stadhuis  are  situated.  The  choir  of 
the  late-Gothic  Groote  Kerk  (PI.  1),  which  was  completed  in  1452, 
contains  the  monument  of  Charles  van  Egmont,  Duke  of  Guelders 
(d.  1513),  a  recumbent  mail-clad  figure  in  white  marble,  on  a  sar- 
cophagus of  black  and  white  marble,  adorned  with  reliefs  of  the 
Apostles,  etc.  Above ,  on  the  N,  wall  of  the  choir,  is  the  kneel- 
ing figure  of  the  Duke  beneath  a  wooden  canopy,  covered  with  the 
suit  of  armour  worn  by  him  during  his  life-time.  (The  sacristan 
Lives  on  the  N.  side  of  the  church,  fee  25  c.)  In  the  ambulatory 
is  the  elegant  memorial  tablet  of  the  chancellor  Joost  Sasbout  (d. 
1546),  by  Jacob  Colyn.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  church  rises  the  Stad- 
huis (PI.  2),  erected  as  a  palace  by  Maarten  van  Rossum,  general  of 
Duke  Charles  of  Guelders,  the  indefatigable  opponent  of  the  Emp. 
Charles  V.  (modernized  and  converted  to  its  present  use  in  1830). 
It  is  popularly  known  as  the  Duivelshuis,  from  its  quaint  sculptural 
decorations.  The  public  Library,  behind  the  Town  Hall,  contains 
mainly  theological,  historical,  and  legal  works.  —  The  Museum  van 
Oudheden  en  Kunst  (adm.  on  Wed.  1-4,  free ;  in  summer  also  on 
Sun.,  11.30-2.30),  also  in  the  Groote  Markt,  contains  seals,  coins, 
portraits,  architectural  models,  etc.  The  gems  of  the  collection  are 
a  carved  ivory  diptych  of  the  13th  cent.,  forming  the  binding  of  a 
manuscript  copy  of  the  Gospels  (Evangeliarium)  of  the  14th  cent., 
from  the  Bethlehem  Monastery  near  Deutichem,  and  seven  silver 
guild-cups  of  the  17-18th  centuries.  —  The  Prinsenhof,  of  the 
middle  of  the  17th  cent.,  is  architecturally  interesting.  It  is  now 
occupied  by  Messrs.  Hesselink's  wine-house. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St.  Walburga  (PI.  3),  to  which 


HERSTAL.  49.  Route.     359 

the  St.  Walburg-Straat  leads  to  fhe  right  (S.)  of  the  Stadhuis,  con- 
tains a  modern  carved  altar  and  a  handsome  Gothic  pulpit. 

ExYiEOXs.  The  district  around  Arnhem  is  the  most  picturesq^ue 
in  Holland.  The  grounds  of  many  of  the  numerous  country-seats  in 
the  vicinity  are  open  to  visitors.  The  inns  are  generally  good.  — 
About  3/4  M.  to  theN.  is  *Sonsbeek,  the  seat  of  Baron  van  Heeckeren. 

The  entrance  is  near  the  railway-station,  about  V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
town.  The  park  and  grounds  are  open  to  the  public  on  Mon.  and  Wed. 
(visitors  ring  the  'Bel  voor  den  Poortier').  The  custodian  of  the  grounds, 
who  also  shows  the  Belvedere  Tower ,  lives  at  the  entrance  (fee  for 
1  pers.  1/2  fl-j  ^or  a  party  I-IV2  fl.).  The  park  contains  fine  groups  of  trees, 
iish-ponds ,  waterfalls,  grottoes,  a  deer-park,  a  riding-course,  etc.  The 
Belvedere  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  park  and  the  fertile  Betuwe 
as  far  as  the  Eltener  Berg  and  the  distant  heights  of  Cleve. 

Immediately  below  the  town  rises  the  Reeberg,  an  eminence  with 
extensive  pleasure-grounds  and  a  casino  where  concerts  are  fre- 
quently given.  Higher  up  is  the  country-residence  of  Heyenoord, 
adjoining  which  there  are  beautiful  walks  through  the  woods  in  all 
directions,  provided  with  benches  at  intervals. 

In  the  opposite  direction,  to  the  E.  of  Arnhem,  rises  a  range 
of  heights,  along  the  base  of  which  runs  the  *Velp  Road  (to  Zut- 
phen).  Carriage,  see  p.  357.  Upwards  of  3  M.  from  Arnhem,  on 
the  left ,  is  Klarenbeek ,  where ,  from  the  'Steenen  Tafel'  (stone 
table),  a  fine  view  of  the  Rhine  Valley  is  obtained.  The  Hospital 
for  the  soldiers  of  the  colonial  army  at  Bronbeek,  close  to  Klaren- 
beek, endowed  by  William  III.,  is  worth  visiting;  it  contains  a 
number  of  old  cannon  and  other  weapons  captured  in  Acheen 
(admission  50c.).  Farther  on  is  the  village  of  Velp  (railway-station, 
see  p.  352;  tramway  25  c. ;  tramway  to  Dieren,  see  p.  352),  to  the 
N.  of  which  is  the  estate  of  Rozendaal,  with  fine  trees,  lakes,  and 
fountains  (fee  1/2  fl->  ^  party  Ifl.);  adjacent  is  the  Hotel  op  den 
Berg.  Other  pleasant  resorts  are  Biljoen,  Beekhuizen  (*H6tel  Garni, 
'pens.'  372  fl-),  Rhederoord,  and  Middachten  (^Gne  avenue  of  beeches). 

From  Arnhem  to  Zutphen  (Salzbergen),  seeR.  47;  to  Nymegen^  see  p.  370. 

49.  From  Li^ge  to  Utrecht. 

119  M.  Railway  in  51/4-61/2  brs.-,   fares  17  fr.  93,  13  fr.  90,  8  fr.  98  c. 
or,  in  Dutch  money,  9  fl.  50,  7  fl.  60,  4  fl.  75  cts. 

Liege,  see  p.  203.  The  train  starts  from  the  Station  de  Vi- 
vegnis  (comp.  p.  203).  It  then  skirts  the  hills  enclosing  the  Meuse, 
but  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  as  far  as  — 

2  M.  Herstal,  almost  a  suburb  of  Liege,  the  birthplace  of 
Pepin  'le  Gros'  of  Herstal ,  the  majordomo  of  the  palace,  or  chief 
officer  of  the  king,  and  practically  the  regent  of  the  great  Frankish 
empire,  as  the  power  of  the  Merovingian  monarchs  had  begun  to 
decline.  Herstal  also  contests  with  Aix-la-Chapelle  the  glory  of 
being  the  birthplace  of  Charlemagne.  In  870  Charles  the  Bald  of 
France  concluded  a  treaty  here  with  Lewis  the  German  concerning 
the  partition  of  Lorraine. 


3G0     Route  49.  'S  HERTOGENBOSCH.  From  Lilge 

The  train  now  quits  the  valley  of  the  Meuse,  and  turns  to  the 
N.  to  (6  M.")  Liers ,  from  which  a  hranch-line  runs  to  Rocourt  and 
Ans  (p.  197).    lOi/o  M.  Glons ;  121/0  M.  Nederheim. 

14  M.  Tongeren,  French  Tongres  (*H6tel  du  Casque;  Swartsen- 
broek,  new ;  2'oppet,  plain ;  Cafe  Liegeois),  the  Roman  Aduatica 
Tongri,  is  a  town  with  7200  inhabitants.  At  the  beginning  of  the 
4th  cent,  it  was  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  whose  residence,  however, 
was  removed  to  Maastricht  in  346  to  secure  the  protection  of  the 
latter's  fortiflcations,  and  was  afterwards  transferred  to  Liege.  The 
handsome  Gothic  Church  of  Notre  Dame,  erected  in  1240,  with  choir 
and  tower  of  the  15th  cent.,  possesses  a  valuable  collection  of  sacred 
vessels,  and  Romanesque  cloisters  with  fine  sculptures.  In  the 
market-place  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Ambiorix.  —  Branch  to  St.  Trend 
mid  Tirlemont,  see  p.  196. 

20  m.  Hoesselt]  21  M.  Bilsen  (branch -line  to  Munsterbilsen 
p.  176);  24  M.  Beverst  (p.  176);  26  M.  Diepenbeek. 

31  M.  Hasselt,  where  the  line  unites  with  the  Antwerp,  Maas- 
tricht, and  Aix-la-Chapelle  railway  (see  p.  176). 

Scenery  uninteresting,  but  the  bridges  over  the  arms  of  the 
Meuse  and  Rhine  towards  the  end  of  the  journey  are  worthy  of 
notice.  Stations  Zonhoven,  Helchteren,  Wychmael-Beverloo,  (junc- 
tion of  the  line  from  Bourg-Leopold  to  Brie),  Exel,  Neerpelt  (junc- 
tion for  the  Gladbach  and  Antwerp  line,  p.  177),  (57  M.)  Achel 
(last  in  Belgium) ,  (627-2  M.)  Valkenswaard  (tirst  in  Holland), 
Waalre,  (69  M.)  Eindhoven  (p.  375,  junction  of  the  Venlo  line ), 
Best,  (81  M.)  Boxtel  (p.  375),  and  Vught  (also  connected  with 
'S  Hertogenbosch  by  a  steam-tramway). 

891/2  M.  'S  Hertogenbosch,  or  'S  Bosch,  French  Bois-le-Duc 
(Eenhorn,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  from2fl.,  B.  80c.,  dej.  1,  D.  11/2,  omn. 
1/4 fl.  ;  Lion  d'Or;  Maison  Verte),  on  the  Dommel,  the  Aa,  and 
the  Zuid-Willems- Canal,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  N.  Brabant, 
and  strongly  fortified  down  to  1876,  with  27,200  inhab.,  derives 
its  name  from  Duke  Godfrey  of  Brabant,  who  conferred  municipal 
privileges  on  the  town  in  1184.  —  Tramway  from  the  station  to 
different  parts  of  the  town. 

The  late-Gothic  Cathedral  of  St.  John  (St.  Jans  Kerk),  built 
in  1458-98,  with  an  old  tower  of  the  11th  cent.,  and,  to  the  S.  of  the 
latter,  a  chapel  of  the  13th  cent.,  is  one  of  the  three  most  important 
mediaeval  churches  in  Holland  ,  the  other  two  being  the  Cathedral 
of  Utrecht  and  the  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  atKampen,  both  of  which 
it  surpasses  in  richness  of  ornamentation.  It  has  a  lofty  nave  with 
double  aisles,  and  a  handsome  choir  flanked  with  chapels.  The 
interior  contains  modern  stained  glass,  a  brazen  candelabrum  of  the 
15th  cent,  a  brazen  font,  cast  in  1492,  carved  Gothic  choir-stalls 
of  the  15th  cent.,  a  large  organ,  and  a  beautiful  pulpit  by  Cornells 
Bloemart  (1566-70),  with  statuettes  (Christ,  Evangelists,  saints) 
and  reliefs  from  the  lives  of  SS.  John  the  Evangelist  and  Andrew. 


to  Utrecht,  BOMMEL.  49.  Route.     3C1 

The  building  is  now  being  restored.  —  The  Church  of  St.  Catharine 
contains  a  number  of  pictures  from  the  suppressed  Abbey  of  Tongerloo. 

The  Gemeentelyk  Museum^  in  the  upper  floor  of  the  Raadhuis,  is 
open  every  forenoon  (adm.  1/2  fl.,  2-3  pers.  1  fl.).  It  contains  an- 
cient plans  of  the  town  and  neighbourhood,  the  silver  seals  of  the 
chief  magistrates  from  1213  to  1795,  valuables,  coins,  a  few  paint- 
ings, instruments  of  torture,  etc.  —  The  Museum  of  the  Provin- 
ciaaL  Genootschap  van  Kunst  en  Wetenschappen  in  Noordbrabant 
(open  on  week-days,  1-3)  contains  Roman,  German,  Franconian, 
and  later  antiquities,  chiefly  from  N.  Brabant ,  manuscripts ,  pic- 
tures, drawings,  maps,  and  coins. 

About  10  M.  from  Bois-le-Duc  is  the  magnificent  chateau  of  Heeswyk 
(reached  by  steam-tramway  in  1  br.),  restored  in  the  old-fashioned  style, 
the  property  of  Baron  van  den  Bogaerde  van  Ter  Bi-Uijge ,  containing  an 
un  usully  extensive  collection  of  state-weapons  and  other  interesting  mediaeval 
and  Renaissance  objects.  Strangers  admitted  on  sending  in  their  cards. 
Fee  1  11.  —  The  steam-tramway  is  prolonged  hence  to   Veghel  (p.  3G8). 

The  train  crosses  the  Maas  near  (93  M.)  Redely  and  reaches  — 

95  M.  Eommel,  or  Zaltbommel  {*H6tel  Gottschalk,  plain),  for- 
merly a  strongly-fortified  place  (4000  inhab.) ,  which  was  unsuc- 
cessfully besieged  by  the  Spaniards  in  1599  and  taken  by  Turenne 
in  1672  after  a  gallant  defence.  The  ramparts  are  now  occupied  by 
beautiful  avenues.  The  church  possesses  one  of  the  finest  and 
loftiest  towers  in  the  country  (loth  cent.),  and  contains  some  ancient 
mural  paintings.  The  House  of  Maarten  van  Rossum  (p.  858)  and 
various  houses  of  the  17th  cent,  are  architecturally  interesting.  The 
river  is  tidal  up  to  this  point. 

The  train  crosses  the  broad  Waal.  97^2  M.  Waardenburg^; 
100  M.  Geldermalsen  (p.  373),  the  junction  for  the  Nymegen-Dor- 
drecht  railway,  beyond  which  the  Linge  is  crossed. 

Near  (105^/2  M.)  Kuilenborg  the  Lcfc,  or  Lower  Rhine,  is  tra- 
versed by  a  bridge  of  a  single  arch,  164  yds.  in  span  (the  largest 
in  Europe).  Kuilenborg,  or  Culemborg,  was  once  the  seat  of  the 
counts  of  that  name,  who  are  frequently  mentioned  in  the  history 
of  the  Dutch  War  of  Independence.  Late-Gothic  Raadhuis  of  1534. 

About  6  M.  above  Kuilenborg,  at  the  point  where  the  Kromme  Rhyn 
('crooked  Rhine')  diverges  from  the  Lek,  lies  Wykhy-Duurstede,  perhaps 
the  Batavodurum  of  the  Romans,  and  a  commercial  town  of  some  impor- 
tance (Dorestadium)  in  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  Adjacent  is  an  old  villa 
of  the  Bishops  of  Utrecht. 

Below  Kuilenborg  lie  Viunen,  supposed  to  be  the  Fanum  Dianae  of 
Ptolemy.  The  church  contains  the  tomb  of  Reinoud  van  Brederode 
(d.  1556),  the  friend  of  William  of  Orange.  This  monument,  perhaps  by 
Jacob  Colyn,  is  of  considerable  importance  in  the  history  of  plastic  art. 
At  Vreeswyk,  connected  with  Vianen  by  a  bridge-of-boats,  are  large  sluices 
for  the  Keulsche   Vaart^   or  canal  uniting  Amsterdam  with  the  Rhine. 

110  M.  Schalkwyk;  113  M.  Houten.  The  train  then  crosses  the 
Kromme  Rhyn.  —  119  M.  Utrecht,  see  p.  362. 


3G2 


50.    Utrecht. 


Railway  Stations.  Utrecht  has  two  railway -stations:  that  of  the 
Rhynspoorweg  (PI.  A,  3;  see  Route  49),  and  that  of  the  Oosterspoorweg 
(PI.  D,  4;  see  Route  45).  The  latter  line  has  also  a  small  station  in  the 
Biltstraat  (PI.  D,  1). 

Hotels.  *H6tel  des  Pats-Bas  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  in  the  Janskerkhof,  R.,  L., 
&  A.  13/4-3,  B.  3/4,  D.  2,  omn.  V*  A-i  Hotel  de  l'Edrope  (PI.  c;  B,  2),  and 
Eellevde  (PI.  d;  B,  2),  both  on  the  Vreeburg;  *Vieux  Chatead  d'Anvees 
(PI.  b;  B,  2),  Oude  Gracht,  R.,  L.,  <fe  A.  1V2-13/4,  B.  3/^,  1).  2,  omn.  1/2  A- ; 
De  Liggende  Os,  in  the  Vreeburg  (PI.  A,  B,  2),  an  old  Dutch  house,  R., 
B.,  &  A.  2,  D.  at  4  p.m.  21/2  fl. ;  Hotel  de  la  Station  (PI.  e ;  A,  2),  opposite 
the  Rhine  Station,  with  restaurant  and  cafe,  R.  <fe  B.  2'/4,  D.  2  tl.  j  Hotel 
Ballaxg£e,  Biltstraat,  R..  L.,  A.,  &  B.  2,  dej.  1,  D.  2V2  A. 

Restaurants.  Eaagsche  Koffyhuis,  on  the  Vreeburg  (PI.  A,  B,  2)  ;  Riche^ 
Oude  Gracht  63  (PI.  C,  b);  Wiener  Gafi,  Oude  Gracht  C  30  (PI.  B,  2);  Lotz, 
Oudkerkhof  84,  near  the  town-hall.  —  Tivoli^  in  the  Singel  (PI.  D,  2), 
with  a  garden,  popular  entertainments. 

Cabs.  From  the  stations  into  the  town  1-2  pers.  60,  3  pers.  70, 
4  pers.  80  c. -,  per  hr.  for  1-4  pers.  1  fl.,  each  additional  V*  hr.  25  c. 

Tramways.  1.  From  the  station  of  the  Rhynspoorweg  through  the 
town  to  the  Oosterspoorweg  Station  (station  Maliebaan) ,  every  6  min. 
(fare  5-10  c).  —  2.  Steam-tramway  from  the  Rhynspoorweg  Station  to  Zeist 
(p.  356),  every  1/2  hr.  in  summer,  on  Sun.  every  20  min.  (fare  35  c).  — 
3.  Steam-tramwiiy  to  Vreeswyk  (p.  361)  about  once  an  hr.  in  50  min. 

Post  Office,  at  the  back  of  the  cathedral.  —  Telegraph  Offices,  in  the 
Westerstraat  (PI.  25^  A,  3)  and  in  the  Paushuizen  (p.  364). 

Utrecht  {'Oude  TrechV,  old  ford),  the  capital  of  the  Dutch 
province  of  that  name,  with  85,300  inhab.  (1/3  Rom.  Cath.),  the 
Trajectum  ad  Rhenum  [ford  of  the  Rhine)  of  the  Romans,  sub- 
sequently called  Wiltaburg  by  the  Frisians  and  Franks,  is  one 
of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  the  Netherlands. 

Dagobert,  the  first  king  of  the  E.  Franks,  founded  the  first  church  at 
Utrecht,  then  occupied  by  Frisians,  whose  bishop  was  St.  Willebrordus. 
St.  Boniface,  a  monk  from  Exeter,  who  afterwards  became  archbishop  of 
Mayence,  once  taught  here.  The  archbishops  of  Utrecht  were  among  the 
most  powerful  of  mediaval  prelates,  and  the  town  was  celebrated  at  an 
early  period  for  the  beauty  of  its  churches.  It  first  belonged  to  Lorraine, 
and  "then  to  the  German  Empire,  and  was  frequently  the  residence  of  the 
emperors.  The  Emp.  Conrad  11.  died  here  in  1039,  and  the  Emp.  Henry  V., 
the  last  of  the  powerful  Salic  line,  in  1125,  and  both  were  interred  in  the 
cathedral  of  Spires.  The  Emp.  Charles  V.  erected  the  Vreeburg  here  after 
1519  in  order  to  keep  the  citizens  in  check,  but  it  was  destroyed  in  1577 
on  the  outbreak  of  the  War  of  Independence.  The  site  of  the  castle,  at 
the  entrance  to  the  town  from  the  station,  still  retains  the  name.  Adrian 
Floriszoon  Boeyens,  the  tutor  of  Charles  V.,  one  of  the  most  pious  and 
learned  men  of  his  age,  afterwards  Pope  Adrian  VI.,  was  born  at  Utrecht 
in  1459.  In  1579  the  Union  of  the  seven  provinces  of  Holland,  Zeeland, 
Utrecht,  Guelders,  Over-Yssel,  Friesland ,  and  Groningen,  whereby  the 
independence  of  the  Xetherlands  was  established,  was  concluded  in  the 
Hall  of  the  Academy  of  Utrecht  under  the  presidency  of  Count  John  of 
Nassau,  brother  of  William  the  Silent.  The  States  General  were  in  the 
habit  of  assembling  here  from  that  date  down  to  1593,  when  the  seat  of 
government  was  transferred  to  the  Hague.  In  1672  Louis  XIV.  levied  a 
heavy  contribution  upon  the  citizens.  The  celebrated  Peace  of  Utrecht, 
which  terminated  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  was  concluded  here  on 
11th  April,  1713. 

At  Utrecht  the  Rhine  divides  into  two  branches  ,  one  of  which, 
named  the  'Old Rhine',  falls  into  the  North  Sea  nearKatwyk(p.  285), 
while  the  other ,   called  the  Vecht ,  empties  itself  into  the  Zuider- 


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University.  UTRECHT.  50.  Route.      363 

zee  near  Muideu  (p.  337).  The  town  is  intersected  by  two  canals, 
tlie  Oude  and  Nieuwe  Graclit,  wliioli  flow  far  "below  the  level  of  the 
adjoining  houses.  Some  of  the  rooms  and  vaults  below  the  wharfs 
are  occupied  as  dwellings.    Picturesque  street-vistas. 

The  *Cathedral  (PL  1;  C,  3),  a  spacious  cruciform  edifice  in  the 
Gothic  style,  dedicated  to  St.  Martin ,  was  erected  in  1254-67  by 
Bishop  Vianden  on  the  site  of  the  original  church,  which  was  founded 
by  St.  Willebrordus,  Bishop  of  Utrecht,  about  720,  and  completed 
by  Bishop  Adelbold  in  1015.  In  consequence  of  a  violent  hurri- 
cane on  1st  Aug.,  1674,  the  nave  fell  in,  and  as  it  was  never  re- 
erected  ,  a  wide  interval  has  been  left  between  the  choir,  with  the 
transept,  and  the  "W.  tower.  When  complete  it  was  one  of  the 
finest  and  largest  churches  in  Holland  (comp.  p.  xxxvii). 

The  Interior  (the  sacristan  lives  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  church  •, 
25  c),  which  is  115  ft.  in  height,  and  30  ft.  in  width,  is  disfigured  by 
pews,  so  that  the  impression  produced  by  this  venerable  Gothic  relic 
with  its  eighteen  slender  columns  is  almost  entirely  destroyed.  The 
monument  of  Admiral  van  Gent,  who  fell  in  1672  at  the  naval  battle  of 
Soulsbai,  was  executed  in  black  and  white  marble  by  Romhout  Vet'hulsl 
in  1676.  The  monuments  of  Bishops  Guy  of  HainauU  (d.  1317),  Jan  van 
Ariel  (d.  13 <8),  and  George  van  Egmont  (d.  1549}  are  also  interesting.  The 
extensive  vaults  beneath  the  choir  contain  the  hearts  of  the  German 
Emperors  Conrad  II.   and  Henry  V.,  who  died  at  Utrecht. 

The  fine  Gothic  *  Cloisters  adjoining  the  choir  on  the  S.,  re- 
cently restored  by  Cuypers ,  connect  the  Cathedral  with  the  Uni- 
versity. In  the  space  between  the  tower  and  choir  a  bronze  statue  of 
Count  John  of  Nassau  (see  p.  362),  by  Strackee,  was  erected  in  1883. 

The  Cathedral  Tower ,  formerly  364  ft.  in  height ,  now  338  ft. 
only,  erected  in  1321-82,  having  been  begun  by  the  architect  Jan 
ten  Doem  of  Hainault,  rests  on  a  handsome  vaulted  passage  36  ft. 
in  height.  It  is  square  in  form ,  with  a  double  superstructure ,  of 
which  the  upper  is  octagonal  and  open.  The  chimes  consist  of 
42  bells,  one  of  which,  the  St.  Salvator,  adorned  with  an  image  of 
the  Saviour,  was  cast  in  the  15th  cent,  and  weighs  8^2  tons.  A 
flight  of  120  steps  ascends  to  the  dwelling  of  the  sacristan  (where 
the  tariff  for  the  ascent  is  exhibited:  1-2  pers.  25  c. ;  for  a  larger 
party,  10  c.  each),  200  more  to  the  gallery,  and  138  thence  to 
the  platform.  The  view  embraces  almost  the  whole  of  Holland, 
and  part  of  Guelders  and  N.  Brabant. 

The  University  (PI.  10;  C,  3),  adjoining  the  cathedral,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  the  above-named  cloisters,  was  founded 
in  1636,  and  has  long  enjoyed  a  high  reputation  (36  professors 
and  ca.  600  students).  The  Aula,  in  the  Gothic  style,  originally  the 
chapter-house  of  the  cathedral,  was  restored  in  1879  from  ancient 
plans.  The  Senate  Room  contains  portraits  of  professors,  including 
two  ascribed  to  Frans  Hals  and  Rembrandt.  The  chief  academical 
institutions  in  this  building  are  the  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
with  preparations  in  wax  by  Dr.  Koning,  and  the  Physical  and  Phy- 
siological Laboratories. 


3G4     Route  50.  UTRECHT.  Museum. 

Tlie  St.  Pieterskerk  (PI.  5;  D,  3),  to  the  E.  of  the  cathedral, 
originally  a  flat-roofed  church,  supported  by  columns,  was  founded 
in  1039,  hut  has  been  frequently  renewed;  the  curious  old  crypt 
with  its  columns  is  still  preserved.  The  church  is  now  used  by  a 
Walloon  congregation. 

The  St.  Janskerk  (PI.  4;  C,  2),  to  the  N.  of  the  cathedral,  in 
the  liomanesque  style  (1050),  with  a  late-Gothic  diuir  of  1539, 
contains  several  monuments  of  little  merit.  Adjacent  is  the  Anatom- 
ical Institute  of  the  University  (PI.  12).  —  The  St.  Jacohskerk  (PI.  3  ; 
B,  1),  founded  in  1173  and  restored  in  1882,  contains  the  mon- 
ument of  Pastor  Huibert  Duifhuis  (d.  1581 ;  below  the  organ). 

The  University  Library  (PI.  11 ;  C,  D,  1,  2)  occupies  the  palace 
built  for  King  Louis  Napoleon  in  1807.  It  contains  110,000  vols, 
and"  1500  MSS.,  including  a  psalter  of  the  9th  cent. ,  embellished 
with  miniatures,  and  several  others  of  great  value.  The  reading- 
room  is  open  from  11  to  4. 

The  Paushuizen  (pope's  house),  on  the  Nieuwe  Gracht,  recalls 
by  its  name  Pope  Adrian  VI.  (p.  362),  who  built  it  in  1517  when 
Provost  of  St.  Salvator.  It  now  contains  several  public  offices 
(PI.  15),  including  a  telegraph-oflice.  On  the  gable  is  a  fine  statue 
of  the  Saviour  (16th  cent.),  the  head  of  which  is  modelled  after  a 
work  of  Michael  Angelo  in  S.  Maria  sopra  Minerva  (Rome). 

The  *Arcliiepiscopal  Museum  {^Aartsbisschoppelyk  Museum; 
PI.  D,  3)  affords  an  admirable  illustration  of  all  the  branches  of 
sacred  art  practised  in  the  Netherlands.  Admission  daily,  except 
Sun.  and  holidays,  10-5;  50  c. 

The  collection  is  arranged  in  a  number  of  small  rooms.  The  pictures 
are  chiefly  by  unknown  Dutch  or  Flemish  masters  of  the  15- 17th  centuries. 
Room  I.  On  the  entrance-wall  are  works  of  the  Early  Cologne  School  and 
on  the  right  are  a  few  old  paintings  by  Sienese  Masters.  By  the  window 
are  some  costly  bindings  for  Gospels,  of  the  li-13th  centuries.  —  Room  II. : 
To  the  left.  Embroidery  for  ecclesiastical  vestments,  15-lfcith  cent.  ^  in  the 
middle,  old  printed  Bibles;  by  the  exit,  two  portraits  attributed  to  Jan 
van  Scfiooreel.  —  Room  III. :  Embroideries  of  the  15-16th  cent. ;  opposite  the 
windows,  Four  pilgrims  in  the  crypt  of  the  church  at  Bethlehem,  a  large 
picture  of  the  16th  cent. ;  in  the  glass-cases  are  chalices,  ciboria,  and 
other  ecclesiastical  vessels-,  Byzantine  Madonna  of  the  11th  cent,  and  other 
carvings  in  ivory.  —  Room  IV.  Sculptures.  Christ  blessing  little  children, 
a  painting  by  Werner  van  den  Valckcrt  (1620).  —  We  now  ascend  to  the 
upper  floor.  Room  V.  Ecclesiastical  vestments,  brocades  from  Ghent  and 
Utrecht,  and  other  textile  fabrics  of  the  13-16th  centuries.  —  Room  YI. 
French,  Dutch,   and  Venetian  lace. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  St.  Catharine,  in  the  adjoining 
Katherinsteeg  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  a  late-Gothic  building  of  1524,  was 
restored  in  1880  from  plans  by  Van  Brink.  The  interior  has  been 
decorated  with  polychrome  ornamentation,  and  contains  a  screen  by 
Mengelberg  of  Utrecht. 

The  Museum  Kunstliefde,  a  small  picture-gallery  in  the  upper 
floor  of  the  building  of  Arts  and  Sciences  (PI.  14 ;  B,  3),  contains 
a  number  of  works  by  the  early  Utrecht  masters,  the  chief  of  whom 
was  Jan  van  Scorel,  Schoorl,  or  Schooreel  (1495-1562),   one  of  the 


Stadhuis.  UTRECHT.  50.  Route.      365 

first  Dutch  painters  -^ho  visited  Italy.  Exhibitions  of  modern 
paintings  are  sometimes  held  here,  during  which  the  ancient  works 
are  inaccessible.  Admission  daily,  25  c.;  Sun.  and  holidays  1-4, 
free.  The  catalogue,  by  De  Vries  and  Bredius,  contains  facsimiles 
of  the  signatures  and  coats-of-arms  (IV2  A-)- 

Principal  pictures :  *63-67.  Jan  van  Schooreel ,  Portraits  (p.  xliv)  of 
38  citizens  and  ecclesiastics  of  Utrecht  who  made  a  pilgrimage  together 
to  Jerusalem  (full  of  individuality;  1525);  *6S.  -Sc^ooj-eeJ,  Virgin  and  Child, 
altar-piece  from  the  chapel  of  the  Holy  Cross  Hospital ;  Joachim  WiHewaal, 
Vegetable-seller;  53.  Paid  Moreelse  (pnpil  of  Mierevelt,  p.  267),  Portrait 
of  a  woman ;  3i.  Hendi'ik  Goltzius.  Ecce  Homo ;  61  his.  Roelandt  Savery., 
Flowers;  22.  J.  C.  Brooch  Sloof.  View  of  the  goose-market  and  town-hall 
of  Utrecht  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cent. ;  3.  Abr.  Bloemaeri,  Adora- 
tion of  the  JIagi;  50.  G.  A.  G.  F.  Moiling er ,  Landscape;  Unknown  ArHst., 
Portrait  of  a  gentleman  of  the  16th  cent.;  J.  van  Ha  en  si  erg  en.,  Portrait 
of  a  child;  ~Thos.  de  Keyser ,  Portrait  of  a  woman  with  two  children; 
G.  Honthorst,  Death  of  Seneca,  St.  Peter;  Barth.  van  der  Heist,  Holy 
Family,  one  of  the  few  pictures  of  this  artist  other  than  portraits ;  Ferd. 
Bol.,  Lady  in  a  hunting-dress;  Wappers,  Burgomaster  van  der  "Werff  at  the 
siege  of  Leyden  (p.  280). 

The  Stadhuis  [PI.  24 ;  C,  2),  built  in  1830 ,  also  contains  a 
small  collection  of  pictures  and  other  objects  of  art  (Museum  van 
Oudheden),  which  is  arranged  on  the  upper  floor,  and  is  open  daily, 
except  Sundays  and  holidays,  from  10  to  4;  admission  10  c, 
"Wed.  free.  Catalogue  1  fl.  75  c.  The  museum  is  to  be  removed 
in  1891  to  a  new  building  near  the  new  public  park  (p.  366). 

Room  I.  By  the  entrance,  two  richly-ornamented  capitals  of  the  11th 
cent. ;  to  the  left ,  75.  Painted  alto-relief,  with  a  representation  of  John 
the  Baptist,  11th  cent. ;  *li7.  Alto-relief  with  the  Madonna.  St.  James,  and 
the  donor,  15th  cent.,  all  from  Utrecht  churches.  —  Room  II.  (to  the 
right).  In  the  middle,  nnder  glass,  Model  of  the  cathedral;  farther  on, 
No.  290,  carved  tahle  on  which  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  (1713)  is  said  to 
have  been  signed;  No.  423.  Portrait  of  Emperor  Henry  IV.  —  Room  III. 
Reliefs  with  saints,  from  chimney-pieces  of  the  15th  cent.  (117.  St.  Martin 
dividing  his  cloak,  116.  Foursaintsl;  145.  Recumbent  sepulchral  figure  of 
a  knight,  14th  cent. ;  carved  wooden  brackets  of  the  15th  cent.  —  Room  IV. 
Upper  part  of  a  gable  in  the  Renaissance  style,  with  a  statue  of  Charles  V. 
(16th  cent.,  badly  restored);  between  the  windows,  'Friezes  from  chimney- 
pieces  ,  with  subjects  after  Raphael.  —  Room  V.  contains  Roman  and 
Germanic  antiquities,  including  terracotta  and  bronze  figures,  prehistoric 
weapons,  ivory  carvings,  coins  and  medals,  and  inscriptions.  —  Room  VI. 
Instruments  of  torture  (17th  cent.).  Large  stoneware  jug,  adorned  with 
the  Graces  and  fine  Renaissance  ornamentation,  executed  by  Jan  Eemensz 
of  Cologne  in  1578;  French  holster-pistol,  with  rich  copper  Renaissance 
ornamentation ;  model  of  a  Dutch  citizen's  house  of  the  latter  half  of  the 
17th  cent.,  with  richly-carved  furniture,  miniature  portraits  by  Moncheron 
and  others,  ivory  carvings,  and  a  silver  stove;  collection  of  dies  for  seals 
and  coins.  —  Room  VII.  contains  several  drawings  of  the  cathedral  (before 
and  after  the  fall  of  the  nave)  and  other  Utrecht  churches,  by  P.  Saenredam, 
H.  Saftleven,  J.  Domer.  and  other  17th  cent,  artists;  copy  of  SchooreeVs 
portrait  of  Pope  Adrian  VI.  (p.  362);  and  medifeval  coins  from  1027  down- 
wards, arranged  in  chronological  order.  —  Room  VIII.  Drawings  and 
views  of  Utrecht  in  the  17-18th  cent. ;  model  of  a  lock  near  Utrecht. 

The  Mint  ('5  Ryks  Munt;  PL  22),  where  the  money  current 
in  Holland  and  its  E.  Indian  colonies  is  coined,  contains  Dutch 
coins  and  medals,  dies,  etc.,  both  ancient  and  modern. 

The  Museum  van   Kunstnyverheid,   in  the  Wittevrouwenbtug 


366     Route  50.  ITTRECHT. 

(PI.  D,  1),  founded  in  1884,  contains  art-indnstrial  collections,  and 
is  open  daily,  1-4  (25  c,  Sun.  free). 

The  Flesher's  Hall  (PI.  C,  2),  of  1637,  in  the  Voorstraat,  and 
various  timber  houses  in  the  neighbourhood  and  in  the  Neude  (PI. 
B,  C,  2),  are  architecturally  interesting. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  town  is  the  famous  Maliebaan,  a  triple 
avenue  of  lime-trees ,  more  than  1/2  M-  "^  length ,  which  was 
spared  by  the  express  command  of  Louis  XIV.  at  a  period  when  no 
respect  was  paid  by  his  armies  to  public  or  private  property.  It  is 
approached  by  the  Maliebrug  (PI.  D,  4),  and  then  by  a  path  to  the 
left,  leading  towards  the  N.E.,  and  is  flanked  by  handsome  houses. 
At  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Maliebaan  is  the  Hooge  Land,  a  new  public 
park,  near  which  is  the  new  museum  (conip.  p.  365).  —  The  Ram- 
parts have  been  converted  into  pleasant  promenades,  everywhere 
bounded  by  flowing  water. 

Environs.  The  country  for  many  miles  around  Utrecht  is 
attractive ,  being  studded  with  numerous  mansions ,  parks,  and 
gardens ,  and  fertilised  by  the  ramifications  of  the  Rhine  and  a 
number  of  canals.  The  finest  of  these  seats  is  the  chateau  of 
Soestdyk,  12  M.  to  the  N.  of  Utrecht,  near  the  railway-station  of 
Baarn  (p.  346),  presented  by  the  States  General  in  1816  to  the 
Prince  of  Orange  (afterwards  King  "William  II. ,  d.  1849),  in  recog- 
nition of  his  bravery  at  the  Battle  of  Waterloo,  which  is  commem- 
orated by  a  handsome  monument  in  the  avenue.  It  now  belongs 
to  the  present  queen.  The  wood  is  open  to  the  public.  —  Another 
excursion  may  be  taken  by  Zeist  (p.  356)  and  Driebergen  to  (9  M.) 
Doom  (tramway),  or  to  Amersfoort  (p.  347),  Hilversum  (p.  346),  etc. 

Utrecht  is  the  principal  seat  of  the  Jansenists,  a  sect  of  Roman 
Catholics  who  call  themselves  the  Church  of  Utrecht,  and  who  now  exist 
almost  exclusively  in  Holland.  The  founder  of  the  sect  was  Bishop  Jan- 
senius  of  Ypres  (d.  1638;  p.  28),  whose  five  theses  on  the  necessity  of  di- 
vine grace  in  accordance  with  the  tenets  of  St.  Augustine  (published 
posthumously  in  a  book  termed  '■Augustinus')  were  condemned  by  a  bull 
of  Alexander  VII.  in  1656,  at  the  instigation  of  the  Jesuits,  as  heretical. 
The  adherents  of  the  bishop  refused  to  recognise  this  bull,  thus  de  facto 
separating  themselves  from  the  Church  of  Rome.  The  sect  was  formerly 
not  uncommon  in  France  and  Brabant,  but  was  suppressed  in  the  former 
country  by  a  bull  of  Clement  XI.  in  1713,  termed  '■Unigenitus\  to  which 
the  French  government  gave  efl'ect.  The  Dutch  branch  of  the  sect,  how- 
ever, continued  to  adhere  to  their  peculiar  doctrines.  After  various  dis- 
putes with  the  court  of  Rome,  a  provincial  synod  was  held  at  Utrecht 
in  1763  with  a  view  to  effect  a  compromise. 

According  to  the  resolutions  of  that  assembly  the  'Old  Roman  Ca- 
tholics' (Roomsche  Eatholyken  der  oude  Klerezy),  as  the  Jansenists  style 
themselves ,  do  not  desire  to  renounce  their  allegiance  to  the  Pope  and 
the  Church  of  Rome.  But  (1)  they  reject  the  constitution  of  Alexander  VII. 
of  1656,  on  the  ground  that  the  five  theses  which  it  condemns  are  not 
truly  to  be  found  in  the  writings  of  Jansenius  as  alleged.  (2)  They  re- 
pudiate the  bull  '  Unigenitus\  and  appeal  from  it  to  a  general  Council, 
and  they  adhere  to  the  Augustine  doctrine  and  its  strict  code  of  morality. 
(3)  They  insist  on  the  right  of  chapters  of  cathedrals  to  elect  their  own 
bishops,  and  the  right  of  bishops  to  consecrate  other  bishops,  without 
the  confirmation  of  the  Pope  as  required  by  Gregory  VII. 

The  Archiepiscopal  See  of  Utrecht  comprises  three  parishes  at  Utrecht, 


CLEVE.  5i.  Route.    367 

and  sixteen  in  other  towns  and  villages  of  Holland.  To  the  Episcopal 
Diocese  of  Haarlem  belong  two  parishes  at  Amsterdam,  and  six  in  other 
parts  of  Holland.  A  Jansenist  community  also  exists  at  Ifordstrand  in 
Denmark.  At  Amers/oort  (p.  347)  there  is  a  seminary  connected  with  this 
church.     In  all  there  are  27  Jansenist  communities  with  5350  adherents. 


51.  From  Arnhem  to  Cologne. 

1 .  Railway  of  the  Left  Bank 
(via  Cleve  and  Crefeld). 

OO'/z  M.  Railway  in  33/4 -i'/z  ^rs.,  crossing  the  Rhine  at  Elten  (fares 
7  n.  65,  5  fl.  65,  3  fl.  85  c).  German  frontier  at;  Elten.  Travellers  en- 
tering Germany  should  observe  that  all  new  articles,  and  objects  not  re- 
quired for  personal  use,  are  liable  to  duty;  the  examination,  however, 
is  generally  lenient.  —  Steamboat,  see  p.  368. 

Stations  Westervoort,  Duiven.  8V2  M.  Zevenaar,  the  frontier- 
station  of  Holland  and  junction  of  a  line  via  Deutichem  and  Ruurlo 
to  Winterswyk  (p.  353).  13^/2  M.  Elten,  is  the  frontier-station  of 
Prussia.  The  line  crosses  the  Rhine  by  means  of  a  floating  bridge 
propelled  by  steam. 

171/2  M.  Cleve  (*Maywald,  on  a  height  to  the  S. ;  *Badh6tel  .J- 
Hotel  Styrum,  in  the  Thiergarten,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  both 
with  large  gardens ;  *Robbers,  also  in  the  Thiergarten ;  *Prinzenhof, 
with  a  fine  park ;  *Loock,  opposite  the  post-office ;  *Holtzem,  ad- 
joining the  Schloss;  Visitors^  Tax  5  m.),  once  the  capital  of  a 
duchy  of  that  name,  with  10,100  inhab.,  is  charmingly  situated 
on  three  hills  which  form  part  of  a  wooded  range ,  and  is  much 
frequented  as  a  summer-residence  by  Dutch  families.  The  *Stifts- 
kirche,  an  imposing  brick  edifice,  contains  several  monuments  of 
Counts  and  Dukes  of  Cleve  (the  finest  that  of  Adolph  VI,  d.  1394), 
and  one  of  Margaretha  von  Berg  (d.  1425).  In  the  market-place 
is  the  Lohengrin  Monument,  erected  in  1882  to  commemorate  the 
legend  of  the  Knight  of  the  Swan,  the  scene  of  which  is  laid  at 
Cleve.  On  the  way  to  the  Schloss  rises  a  modern  monument  to 
John  Sigismund,  Elector  of  Brandenburg ,  who  took  possession  of 
the  Duchy  of  Cleve  in  1609.  On  an  abrupt  and  picturesque  emi- 
nence in  the  middle  of  the  town  rises  the  old  Schloss  or  Schxva- 
nenburg  (the  court  of  which  contains  a  Roman  altar  found  in 
the  neighbourhood),  with  the  *Schwanenthurm  ('swan's  tower'), 
184  ft.  in  height.  The  latter  was  erected  by  Adolph  I.  in  1439,  on 
the  site  of  an  ancient  tower  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Caesar. 
The  Schwanenthurm  and  the  ^Clever-Berg,  Yo^l-  distant,  command 
the  finest  views  on  the  Lower  Rhine.  To  the  S.  the  hills  extend 
past  the  Prinzenhof  (now  a  hotel  and  pension),  as  far  as  ^Berg  und 
ThaV  (*Restaurant).  Those  to  the  W.,  called  the  Thiergarten,  are 
laid  out  as  a  park,  and  extend  along  the  high-road  as  far  as  Nymegen. 

From  Cleve  to  Ntmegen,  17  M, ,  railway  in  3/4.I  hr.  (fares  2  m.  20, 
i  m.  60,  i  Di.  10  pf.).  The  intermediate  stations  are  Natter  den;  C'l-anen- 
bui-ff,  the  last  in  Prussia  j  Groesbee/c,  the  seat  of  the  Dutch  custom-house. 
—  Nymegen,  see  p.  370. 


368    Route  51.  DUSSELDORF.  From  Arnhcm 

At  (25  M.)  Goch  a  line  (on  which  no  express  trains  run) 
diverges  to  Gennep,  Beugen  (p.  373),  Uden,  Veghel,  and  Boxtel 
(p.  375).  32  M.  Kevelaer  is  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims.  371/2  M. 
Geldern,  once  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Guelders,  has  belonged 
to  Prussia  since  1713.  Stations  Nieukerk,  Aldekerk,  and  (4972) 
Kempen,  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  k  Kempis  (d.  1471).  Thence  to  — 

901/2  M.  Cologne,  see  R.  54. 

2.   Railway  of  the  Right  Bank 

(via  Emmerich  and  Dusseldorf). 

100  M.  Railway  in  41/2-6  hrs.  (fares  7  fl.  15,  5  fl.  58,  4  fl.  20  c). 
Gei'man  frontier  at  Elten. 

Stations  Westervoort ,,  Duiven,  Zevenaar  (the  last  in  Holland), 
Elten  (the  first  in  Prussia). 

191/2  M.  Emmerich  (Hotel  Royal;  Hof  von  Holland;  Hotel 
Bahnhof),  on  the  Rhine,  is  a  clean,  Dutch-looking  town.  At  the 
upper  end  rises  the  Gothic  tower  of  the  church  of  St.  Aldegonde 
(1283);  at  the  lower  end  is  the  Miinster,  a  church  in  the  transitional 
style  of  the  ll-12th  cent.,  with  an  interesting  crypt.  Next  stations 
Empel  and  Wesel,  a  strongly-fortified  town  at  the  influx  of  the 
Lippe  into  the  Rhine.  A  branch-line  diverges  here  to  Bocholt  and 
(24  M.)  Winterswyk  (p.  353). 

57  M.  Oberhausen  (Holldndischer  Hof ;  Rail.  Restaurant),  on 
the  Ruhr,  is  the  junction  for  Ruhrort  (p.  369)  and  for  the  Cologne- 
Minden  railway.  This  is  one  of  the  chief  coal-districts  in  Prussia. 
62  M.  Duishurg  is  a  thriving  town  of  very  ancient  origin,  with 
47,600  inhabitants.  71  M.  Calcum  is  the  station  for  Kaiserswerth, 
a  venerable  town  on  the  Rhine,  li/o  M.  to  the  W.  (p.  369). 

76  M.  Dusseldorf  [*Breidenbacher  Hof;  Europdischer  Hof; 
Romischer  Kaiser;  Kolnischer  Hof;  Hotel  Thiingen,  etc.),  with 
115,200  inhab.,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Berg,  possesses 
a  famous  School  of  Painting ,  founded  by  Elector  Palatine  Charles 
Theodore  in  1767,  and  revived  in  1822.  (Fuller  information  in  Bae- 
dekers Rhine.')  —  Beyond  Benrath  rises  a  royal  chateau,  erei^ted  in 
1768  by  Elector  Charles  Theodore.  Beyond  stat.  Langenfeld  the 
train  crosses  the  Wupper,  and  then  the  Dhiin.  Last  stations  Kiipper- 
steg  and  Millheim.  The  slow  trains  stop  at  Deutz ,  but  the  express 
crosses  the  Rhine  to  — 

100  M.  Cologne  (see  Baedeker's  Rhine). 

3.  Steamboat  Eoute. 

Steamboat  daily  in  summer,  in  13-15  hrs.  (pleasanter  in  the  reverse 
direction).    German  frontier  at  Emmerich. 

On  our  right,  aeon  after  leaving  Arnhem,  lies  Iluissen,  a  little  below 
which  the  Yssel,  one  of  the  chief  branches  of  the  Rhine,  diverges  to  the 
left  to  the  Zuiderzee. 

1.  Iluis  Loo,  or  Candia ,  an  old  brick  chateau,  with  three  towers. 

1.  Pannerden ,  a  village  with  a  church  with  pointed  spire,  a  wind- 
mill, and  neat  houses. 


to  Cologne.  RUHRORT.  51.  Route.     369 

Near  Millingen  the  most  important  of  the  numerous  branches  of  the 
Rhine  diverges  to  the  W.,  and  from  this  point  down  to  its  junction  with 
the  Maas  takes  the  name  of  Waal. 

1.  Lobith  is  the  last  Dutch  village,  where  the  luggage  of  travellers 
descending  the  river  is  examined.  On  the  opposite  bank,  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  river,  is  the  Schenkenscfianz ,  situated  on  another  branch 
of  the  Rhine.  It  was  formerly  a  strong  fortress ,  and  lay  at  the  bifur- 
cation of  the  Waal  and  Lower  Rhine,  whereas  the  river,  having  changed 
its  course,  now  divides  at  Millingen.  The  stunted  church-tower  of  the 
village  of  Schenkenschanz  rises  from  amid  the  ruins.  The  Rhine  was 
crossed  near  this  point  on  r2th  June,  1672,  by  Louis  XIV.  with  Prince 
Conde ,  who  was  wounded  here ,  and  a  large  army ,  with  a  view  to  con- 
quer Holland.  The  boldness  of  this  'Passage  of  the  Rhine'  is  greatly 
extolled  by  Boileau  in  his  elaborate  lines  written  on  the  occasion,  but 
owing  to  an  unusual  drought  the  river  was  nearly  dried  up,  and  the 
undertaking  was  probably  attended  with  no  serious  difficulty. 

The  first  indication  of  our  approach  to  the  mountainous  and  pictur- 
esque scenery  of  the  Rhine  is  the  range  of  wooded  heights  on  the  right, 
which  form  the  watershed  between  the  Rhine  and  Meuse,  and  on  which 
Cleve  (p.  367)  is  pleasantly  situated,  about  3  M.  from  the  river.  The 
first  eminence  on  the  bank  of  the  river  itself  is  the  Eltener  Berg  with 
its  ancient  abbey  (now  suppressed),  which  rises  on  the  left  as  Emmerich 
is  approached.  We  are,  however,  still  nearly  100  M.  from  the  'Seven  Moun- 
tains', which  rise  at  the  beginning  of  the  most  picturesque  part  of  the  river. 

1.  Emmerich,  see  p.  368. 

r.  Grieth. 

1.  Rees,    once   strongly  fortified. 

r.  Xanten,  2  M.  from  the  Rhine,  a  town  of  very  ancient  origin, 
possesses  a  handsome  Gothic  church,  with  conspicuous  spires. 

1.  Wesel,  an  important  Prussian  fortress  (p.  368).  On  the  same  bank, 
higher  up,  rises  the  old  castle  of  JIaus   Wohniing. 

r.   Orsoy. 

1.  Ruhrort,  a  town  of  9200  inhab.  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ruhr,  which 
here  forms  an  extensive  harbour,  is  a  busy  coal-trading  and  iron-man- 
ufacturing place. 

r.  Homberg,  whence  Aix-la-Chapelle  may  be  reached  in  34  hrs. 

1.  Duisburg ,  a  busy  town,  situated  IV2  M.  from  the  river  (p.  368). 

r.    Uerdingen,  a  manufacturing  place. 

1.  Kaiserswerth  ('emperor's  island')  was  formerly  an  island  and  de- 
rived its  name  from  the  Emp.  Frederick  I.  The  brick  walls  and  archways 
of  the  ancient  castle  of  the  Franks,  which  was  considerably  enlarged  by 
Frederick,  are  still  extant.  In  1062  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  carried 
off  the  young  German  king  Henry  IV.  from  this  castle.  The  parish-church, 
dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  contains  the  relics  of  St.  Suitbertus,  an  Irish- 
man, who  first  preached  the  Gospel  in  this  district. 

1.  Diisseldorf  (p.  368),  where  the  river  is  crossed  by  a  railway-bridge 
and  a  bridge-of-boats.  Farther  on,  the  tower  of  the  handsome  church 
of  St.  Quirinus  at  Neuss.,  erected  in  1209,  comes  into  view  on  the  right. 

r.   Grimlinghausen. 

T.  Wvrringen,  a  small  town,  near  which,  on  4th  June,  1288,  John 
Duke  of  Brabant  and  Adolph  Count  of  Berg  defeated  and  took  prisoner 
the  Archbishop  Siegfried  of  Cologne,  a  victory  which  added  the  fertile 
Duchy  of  Limburg  to  the  dominions  of  Brabant. 

1.  Miilhei7n,  a  manufacturing  place,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  rises 
Stammheim,  a  chateau  of  Count  Fiirstenberg,  with  a  Gothic  chapel.  The 
towers  of  Cologne  and  its  dense  mass  of  houses  now  become  visible. 

Cologne,  see  Baedeker's  Rhine. 


Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland.     10th  Edit.  94 


370 

52.  From  Arnhem  to  Nymegen,  'S  Hertogenbosch, 
and  Tilburg. 

5IV2  M.  Railway  (Ncderland.  Staatsspoorweg)  in  1^  4-2''/4  hrs.  (lares 
4  ll.  20,  3  11.  25  c,  2  11.)  —  Between  Arnhem  and  Nymegen  a  steamer  plies 
twice  daily  in  2V2  lirs. 

Arnhem,  see  p.  357.  The  railway  passes  Oosterbeek  (p.  357), 
crosses  the  lUiine,  and  runs  to  the  S.  through  the  Betuwe  (p.  357). 
5iy'2  ^^-  J^^-^'i;  .7V2  ^I-  Hessen-Bemmel,  the  junction  for  the  lines 
mentioned  at  p.  373.  After  passing  Lent  (p.  372),  opposite  Nymegen, 
the  train  crosses  the  river  by  an  iron  bridge  of  three  arches. 

101/2  M.  Nymegen.  —  Hotels.  -Hotel  Plack  Koyalk,  Ridderstraat, 
near  the  Valkliof ;  'Hotkl  Ariens,  Priemstraat,  near  the  Hying  bridf^e 
across  the  Waal,  a  commercial  house  with  moderate  charges  ^  Hotel 
UoGGiA,  Burgstraat.  —  Hop  van  Bkabant,  Korenmarkt;  De  Gouden 
Leecw,  Lange  Hezelstraat,  unpretending.  —  Omnibus  from  the  station 
to  the  town,  20  c.  —  The  *H6tel  Bekg  en  Dal  (p.  372),  3V2  M.  to  the 
E.  of  Nymegen  (omnibus  at  the  station,  30  c.),  is  much  frequented  in 
summer,  R.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  from  9J/2  fl.,  ddj.  60  c.,  pens,  from  SVz  H.j  good 
table-dMiotc  (4  p.m.,  2  fl.)  and  restaurant. 

Cafes.  Ilamerslag^  in  the  market-place^  Suisse,  Burgstraat,  with  a 
winter  garden ;  Duppen,  Yalkhof;  Orand  Gafi  Neuf,  Platenmakerstraat. 
—  The  Societcit  Buvfjerlust  (p.  371)  is  generally  open  to  strangers  who 
make  polite  application. 

Baths.  In  the  Waal,  near  the  flying  bridge  at  Lent  (p.  372).  Warm 
Ballix  near  tlie  Kronenburg  Park. 

Tramway  to  Seek  (p.  372)  and  to  Nverbosch. 

Steamboats  to  Arnhem.,  Tiel,  and  Rotterdam,  once  or  twice  daily. 

Nymegen,  almost  invariably  pronounced  N(m\veyen,yf ith  31,800 
inhab.  (^/^  Kom.  Cath.),  the  Castellum  Noviomagum  of  Caesar,  oc- 
cupies a  site  on  an  amphitheatre  of  seven  hills,  rising  from  the 
left  bank  of  the  Waal.  In  the  Carlovingian  epoch  it  was  frequently 
the  residence  of  the  emperors ;  subsequently  it  became  a  free  im- 
perial town  and  a  member  of  the  Hanseatic  League,  and  in  1579  it 
joined  the  Union  of  Utrecht  (p.  362).  It  was  captured  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1585,  and  was  retaken  by  Maurice  of  Orange  in  1591. 
The  French  under  Turenne  occupied  the  town  in  1672,  but  eva- 
cuated it  at  the  peace  of  Nymegen. 

In  1877-84  the  old  fortifications  encircling  the  town  were  con- 
verted into  a  broad  promenade.  To  the  W.,  near  the  station,  lies 
the  Krunenhury  Park,  prettily  laid  out  with  rockeries  aud  a  water- 
fall ,  and  containing  one  of  the  sixteen  towers  that  strengthened 
the  old  town-walls. 

Almost  in  the  centre  of  the  town  rises  the  Groote  Kerk  or 
Church  of  St.  Stephen,  a  Gothic  edifice,  begun  in  1272  and  substant- 
ially completed  iu  the  14th  and  15th  cent.,  though  there  are  a  few 
modern  additions.  The  barrel  vaulting  of  the  nave,  supported 
by  35  slender  pillars,  replaces  a  former  and  more  strictly  Gothic 
pointed  vaulting.  The  choir  contains  the  Monument  of  Catherine  of 
Bourbon  (d.  1469),  wife  of  Adolphus,  Duke  of  Guelders,  with  a 
'brass'  bearing  the  figure  of  the  duchess.  Below  are  representations 
of  the  Apostles  and  sixteen  coats-of-arms  of  the  House  of  Bourbon. 


NYMEGEN.  52.  Route.    371 

The  organ  is  a  tine  instrument  (public  porfonuancc  every  Tuesday 
in  summer,  2-3  p.m.).  The  tower,  which  had  suffered  seriously 
from  Are  and  bombardment,  was  renewed  in  1593  in  the  Renais- 
sance style  of  the  day ;  the  top  commands  a  fine  view  (key  kept  by 
the  castellan  ).  On  the  old  Grammar  School  (^ii)4A  -^  now  a  conservatoire 
of  music),  near  the  churchyard,  are  some  mutilated  sculptures. 

Through  the  Kerkboog  we  descend  hence  to  the  E.  to  the  Groote 
Markt,  with  the  old  Weigh  House  and  Flesher's  Hall,  conjectured  to 
have  been  built  in  1612  by  H.  de  Keyser  and  renewed  in  1885. 
The  building,  which  is  detaehed  on  three  sides,  is  now  the  tele- 
graph oftice.  —  Farther  on,  in  the  Korte  Burgstraat,  stands  the  — 

*Stai>huis,  erected  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1554,  and  judi- 
ciously restored,  with  statues  of  German  monar(;hs  on  the  facade. 

The  Vkstibule  contains  raised  seats  adorned  with  carving  (by  Guert 
van  Dulcken),  on  which  the  magistrates  formerly  sat  in  criminal  cases. 
The  Vorflure  of  the  Dutch  town-halls  were  formerly  used  as  the  scat  of 
municipal  tribunals  ('  ViertcJiaare'').  —  The  Intekior  possesses  a  few  pic- 
tures, among  which  are  the  old  chateau  of  Valkhof  (see  below)  by  Jan  von 
Got/en,  and  portraits  of  the  ambassadors  who  here  signed  in  1678  the  Peace 
of  Nymcgen  between  Louis  XIV.,  the  States  General,  and  Spain.  The 
'Riddle  of  Nymegen''  is  a  picture  representing  a  complicated  relationship 
of  the  year  1609.     Several  of  the  rooms  are  hung  with  old  tapestry. 

The  town-hall  also  contains  an  interesting  Museum  (open  daily  ;  fee). 
In  the  first  roiim  are  mediaeval  and  modern  objects,  among  which  are  the 
silver-mounted  drinking-horn  of  the  Skippers'  Guild;  a  'Nautilus  Cup  (No. 
131)  of  1580  in  silver  repousse  work,  1ft.  high;  missals  of  the  Bakers' 
Guild;  a  wooden  tun,  used  for  the  public  punishment  of  adulterers;  the 
sword  with  which  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorn  are  ulleged  to  have  been 
executed  (p.  105);  coins  of  Nymegen;  and  ancient  MSS.  and  documents. 
The  second  room  contains  prehistoric,  Germanic,  and  Roman  antiquities, 
all  discovered  in  the  vicinity  of  Nymegen,  and  most  of  them  during  the 
recent  levelling  of  the  fortifications.  Among  them  arc  numerous  coins  and 
a  sarcophagus  constructed  of  52  tiles  bearing  the  stamp  of  the  tenth  legion. 

The  r>urgstraat  continues  in  an  easterly  direction,  and  then 
turns  slightly  towards  the  left,  passing  a  Monument  [with  a  statue 
of  Victory  after  Ranch)  erected  to  commemorate  the  construction 
of  the  railway  from  Nymegen  to  Clcve  (1865),  and  theSocieteitBur- 
yerlust  (p.  370).  It  ends  at  the  shady  pleasure-grounds  of  the 
Valkhof,  laid  out  on  an  eminence  above  the  Waal.  Ilere  are  the 
scanty  ruins  of  a  large  Romanesque  palace  of  tlie  Carlovingian  em- 
perors, to  which  Eginhard,  the  biographer  of  Charlemagne,  assigns 
an  equal  rank  with  the  celebrated  palace  at  Ingelheim.  It  was 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1796.  The  memory  of  the  Great  Em- 
peror endures  to  this  day  among  the  people  ;  the  curfew  which  sounds 
between  8.30  and  9  p.m.  is  known  as  'Keizcr  Karel's  Klock',  and 
the  finest  square  in  the  new  quarter  of  the  town  is  named  'Keizer 
Karel's  Plein'.  Of  the  palace-church  only  a  fragment  of  the  choir  is 
extant.  An  interesting  and  well-preserved  relic  is  the  sixteen-sided 
Gothic  Baptistery,  consecrated  by  Pope  Leo  111.  in  799,  but  re- 
erected  in  the  12th  century  (key  kept  by  the  custodian  of  the  Valkhof 
grounds).  The  legend  of  the  Knight  of  the  Swan  is  related  of 
Nymegen  as  well  as  of  Cleve  (comp.  p.  367). 

24* 


372    Roule52.  NYMEGEN. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  old  town,  near  the  Valkhof,  rises  the 
*Belvedere,  a  lofty  building  resembling  a  tower  (now  a  caf^,  10  c. 
charged  for  the  ascent).  The  present  building  was  erected  by  the 
town  in  1646 ,  on  the  foundations  of  one  of  the  towers  of  the 
fortifications.  The  platform  commands  an  extensive  and  pleasing 
prospect,  embracing  Cleve ,  Arnhem ,  the  heights  of  Elten  ,  the 
fertile  fields  and  rich  pastures  of  the  Betuwe,  and  the  Waal,  Rhine, 
Maas,  and  Yssel.   To  the  S.E.  of  the  Belvedere  lies  the  Hilnnerpark. 

The  best  view  of  Nymegen  is  obtained  from  Lent,  a  village  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Waal,  connected  with  the  town  by  means  of 
a  flying  bridge.  A  bastion,  known  as  the  Knodsenburg ,  was  built 
here  in  1590  by  Prince  Maurice  of  Orange. 

The  well-wooded  and  undulating  environs  of  Nymegen  rival 
in  beauty  the  neighbouring  Arnhem  and  Cleve.  At  the  finest 
point,  about  31/2  M-  from  the  town,  is  situated  the  *Hotel  Berg  en 
Dal  (p.  370) ,  commanding  one  of  the  loveliest  prospects  on  the 
lower  Rhine.  To  reach  the  hotel  we  may  follow  either  the  direct 
road,  or  the  way  to  the  S.  through  the  Meericyk  (2  hrs.),  or  the  way 
to  the  N.  by  Ubbergen  and  Beck  (I72  hr-)-  "^^^  second  of  these 
routes  may  be  recommended  for  going;  and  the  last  (tramway)  for 
returning.  The  walk  to  the  Duivelsberg  on  the  WylerMeer (20  mm. ^ 
is  also  picturesque. 

Beyond  Nymegen  the  railway  to  S'Hertogenbosch  passes (1 6  V2  M.) 
Wychen,  with  an  old  chateau,  now  the  property  of  Baron  Osy  of 
Antwerp,  and  crosses  the  Maas.  21  M.  Ravenstein  ;  23V2  M.  Ber- 
chem;  26  M.  Oss,  the  chief  place  for  the  manufacture  of  artificial 
butter,  which  is  mostly  exported  to  England;  29  M.  Nuland-Oeffen ; 
34  M.  Bosmaien.  —  373/4  M.  'SHertogenbosch,  seep.  360.  The  last 
stations  are  Vught  (p.  360),  Helvoirt,  and  Udenhout. 

511/2  M.  Tilburg,  see  p.  375. 

53.  From  Maastricht  to  Nymegen  and  Dordrecht. 

IM'/a  M.  Railway  (Holland.  SiaaUspoorweg)  lo  Nymegen,  79'/2  M.,  in 
23/4-4  hrs.  (fares  6  n."25,  5  il.  25,  3  fl.  25  c);  from  Nymegen  to  Dordrecht, 
65  iM.,  in  2'/2  hrs.  (fares  3  fl.  85,  3  fl.  20,  1  fl.  95  c). 

Maastricht,  see  p.  219.  —  The  railway  follows  the  general 
course  of  the  Maas,  but  at  some  distance  from  the  stream.  3^/4  M. 
Bunde;  8  M.  Beek-Elsloo;  13  M.  Sittard  (Hotel  Ilahnen),  a  small 
manufacturing  town  (5100  inhab.)  with  a  handsome  13th  cent, 
parish  church.  From  (I63/4M.)  Susteren  a  diligence  plies  daily  to 
the  little  town  of  (4  M.)  Maaseyck  fp.  176),  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Maas.  —  20  M.  Echt;  23 V2  M.  Maasbracht-Linne. 

28 M.  Roermond  (Lion  d'Or;  Munster  Hotel;  Dahmen-Wakkers), 
a  small  town  with  10,000  inhab.,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Roer  and 
the  Meuse,  possessing  considerable  cloth-factories.  The  Roman- 
esque Minster,  formerly  the  church  of  a  Cistercian  nunnery,  con- 
secrated in  1224,  has  recently  been  restored  and  elaborately  de- 


VENLO.  53.  Route.   373 

corated.  Behind  is  one  of  the  old  towers  of  the  fortifications.  St. 
Christopher  s  is  adorned  with  paintings.  A  picturesqne  avenue  leads 
to  the  S.  to  the  (1  M.)  Redempdorist  Chapel.  —  Roermond  is  the 
junction  for  the  Miinchen-Gladbach  and  Antwerp  railway  (R.  18). 
—  31  M.  Swalmen;  343/4  M.  Reuver  ;  37  M.  Belfeld;  39  M.  Tegelen. 

41  M.  Venlo  (Van  Wessem;  Hotel  Huengens  ;  Hoogste  Kaar).i 
a  town  with  9000  inhab.,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Maas,  and 
is  connected  by  a  bridge  with  the  opposite  village  of  Blerick.  It 
was  formerly  strongly  fortified  and  sustained  numerous  sieges,  but 
the  works  were  razed  in  1868.  The  Stadhuis  in  the  market-place, 
a  highly  picturesque  erection  of  1595,  contains  a  few  interesting 
paintings  by  the  artist-antiquary  Hubert  Goltzius,  who  spent  his 
youth  in  the  town.  In  the  church  is  some  carving  by  an  artist  of 
the  17th  cent.,  signing  himself  'G.  S'.  Venlo  is  the  junction  of 
railways  to  Miinchen-Gladbach  (p.  177),  to  Wesel  (Paris  and  Ham- 
burg line),  and  to  Boxtel- Rotterdam  (R.  54).  —  Tramway  via 
Tegelen  (see  above)  to  Steyl. 

Steamboat  on  the  Maas  from  Venlo  to  Rotterdam,  4  times  a  week ; 
See  the  Oflicieele  Keisgids. 

The  train  crosses  the  Maas.  At  Blerick  (p.  374)  the  line  to 
Rotterdam  diverges  to  the  left. 

47  M.  Grubbenvorst-Klooster ;  48  M.  Grubbenvorst-Lottum ;  bi  M. 
Meerlo-Tienray ;  55  M.  Venray ;  59^2  M.  Vierlingsbeek ;  64  M. 
Boxmeer ,  with  an  old  castle  and  town -hall;  67'/.2  M,  Beugen, 
the  junction  for  Boxtel  and  Wesel  (p.  368);  70^/4  M.  Cuyk.  Near 
(74  M.)  Mook,  on  the  heath  of  the  same  name,  the  Princes  Louis 
and  Henry  of  Orange,  brothers  of  William  the  Silent,  were  defeated 
and  slain  by  the  Spaniards,  on  March  15th,  1574. 

79V-2  M.'Nymegen,  see  p.  370. 

From  Nymegeu  we  follow  the  Arnhem  line  to  Ressen-Bemmel 
and  (5M.)  Elst(-p.  370),  where  we  join  the  line  coming  from  (51/2^.) 
Arnhem  via  Oo5fer6eeA;,  The  train  then  traverses  the  Betuwe  (p.  357) 
towards  the  W.  Stations  Valburg,  Zetten-Andelst,  Hemmen-Dode- 
waard,  (15  M.)  Kesteren.  Our  line  then  runs  to  the  W.  past  Echteld. 

Fkom  Kestekex  to  Amersfoort.  191/2  M..  railway  in  ^/i  hr.  This  line 
diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Dordrecht  and  crosses  the  Rhine  at 
Rhenen.,  which  possesses  a  Gothic  church  and  a  graceful  tower  built  in 
1492-1531.  7  M.  Veenendaal,  the  junction  of  the  Arnhem-Utrecht  line  (p.  357). 
Bejund  Woudenherg-Scherpenzeel  we  reach  (19V2  31.)  Amersfoort  (p.  347). 

25  M.  Tiel  (Meyer;  Gorbelyn) ,  a  town  with  9000  inhab.  ,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Waal,  received  its  municipal  liberties  from 
Otho  I.  in  972,  when  it  was  already  a  commercial  place  of  some 
importance.  In  1582  it  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  the  Span- 
iards, but  it  was  taken  by  Turenne  in  1672. 

30  M.  Wadenoyen^  prettily  situated;  347-2  M.  Geldermalsen, 
on  the  Linge,  the  junction  of  the  Boxtel  and  Utrecht  line  (p.  361). 
Then,  Beesd,  Leerdam,  and  Arkel. 

501/2  M.  Gorinchem  or  Gorcum  (Hotel  des  Pays-Bas),  a  busy 
town  with  9700 inhab.,  was  one  of  the  first  places  which  the  'Water 


374     Route  54.  CREFELD. 

Oueux',  or  those  insurgents  who  aided  their  compatriots  by  sea, 
took  from  the  Spaniards  in  1572.  It  is  situated  at  the  point  where 
the  Linge  flows  into  tl\e  Merioede,  the  name  given  for  a  short  di- 
stance to  the  river  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Waal  and  the  Maas 
(2  M.  to  the  W.),  which  afterwards  resumes  the  name  of  Maas.  On 
the  side  of  the  town  next  the  sea  stand  some  elegant  fortified  gate- 
ways of  the  17th  century. 

A  visit  to  Gorincbem  and  to  Woudrichem  or  Worcum  (steamboat  every 
2  hrs.)  is  lull  of  interest  for  those  who  are  interested  in  early  l>utchbrick 
buildings  with  mosaic  decorations;  for  landscape  painters;  and  also  for 
salmon-tishcrs.  —  A  little  above  Wnudrichcm  is  the  Caslle  of  Loerenstein. 
In  1619  Hogerheets  and  Hugo  Grotius  (De  Grool).,  the  pensionaries  or  chief 
senators  of  Leyden  and  Kotterdaiu,  wore  condemned  as  Armiiiians  (p.  378) 
to  be  imprisoned  for  life  in  this  castle.  The  latter,  however,  with  the 
aid  of  his  wife,  effected  his  escape  in  a  bonkchest  the  following  year. 

About  4  M.  below  Gorincbem,  on  the  left  bank,  begins  the  Biesbosch 
(literally  'reed-forest'J,  a  vast  district,  consisting  of  upwards  of  ILlO  islands, 
more  than  40  square  miles  in  area,  formed  by  a  destructive  inundation 
in  1421.  No  fewer  than  72  market  towns  and  villages  were  destroyed  by 
the  Hoods  and  upwards  of  100,00(1  persons  perished.  The  Biesbosch  is 
intersected  by  the  broad  artilicial  channel  of  the  Nieuwe  ifenoede. 

The  next  station  is  Hardinxveld-Giessendam.  At  SLiedrecht  the 
railway  crosses  the  Merwede.  —  65  M.  Dordrecht,  see  p.  37G. 

54.  From  Cologne  to  Rotterdam  via  Venlo. 

158Vo  M.  Railway  (Rhenish)  to  Venlo  (GO'/--'  M.)  in  34  hrs.  (fares  (i  marks 
GO,  4  m.  90,  3  m.  *25pf.);  Dutch  Railwmj  thence  to  Rotterdam  (98  M.)  in 
5-0  hrs.  (fares  8  11.  10,  6  11.  45,  4  fl.  5  c).  Through-tickets  20  marks  50, 
IG  m.,  10  m.  25  pf.  —  Stations  at  Rotterdam,  see  p.  229. 

Cologne,  see  Baedeker's  Rhine.  The  train  traverses  the  flat  left 
bank  of  the  Rhine.  Stations  Nippes,  Longerich,  Worringen  (p.  369), 
Dormagen,  Norf,  and  [22^2  M.)  Neuss,  the  junction  of  the  Glad- 
bach  and  Diisseldorf  line ,  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  Ger- 
many (comp.  p.  369).  28  M.  Osterath.  From  [32^^  M.)  Oppum  a 
branrh-line  diverges  to  Essen  and  Dortmund. 

33  M.  Crefeld  (Wilder  Mann;  Beltz),  a  town  with  102,000  in- 
hab.,  and  the  junction  of  several  railways,  possesses  extensive  silk 
and  velvet  manufactories  (see  Baedeker's  Rhine).  At  (40  M.)  Kern- 
pen  (p.  368)  the  line  diverges  from  that  to  Cleve  and  Zevenaar 
(R.  51).  Stations  Grefrath,  Lobberich,  Kaldenkirchen  (the  last  place 
in  Prussia). 

GO1/2  M.  Venlo  (p.  373),  the  seat  of  the  Dutch  custom-house 
authorities,  and  junction  of  the  lines  from  Viersen  (Neuss  and 
Diisseldorf),  Maastricht-Nymegen  (R.  53),  and  Cologne,  and  also 
of  the  line  from  Paris  to  Hamburg  (via  Wesel).  —  The  Rotterdam 
line  crosses  the  Maas ,  diverges  from  the  Nymegen  line  at  Blerick 
(p.  373),  and  traverses  the  morass  of  De  Peel  (25  M.  long,  G  M. 
wide),  which  yields  excellent  peat.  G8  M.  Horst-Sevenum ;  741/2  M. 
Helenaveen;  79  M.  Deurne.  —  84 '/o  M.  Helmond,  a  town  with 
7000  inhab.  on  the  Zuid-Willems-  Kanaal,  whifh  the  railway 
crosses.  —  90  M.  Nuenen-Tongelre. 


BREDA.  54.  Route.     375 

927-2  ^-  Eindhoven  (Hof  van  Holland),  a  small  manufacturing 
town,  the  junction  of  the  Hasselt  and  Utrecht  line  (^p.  360),  which 
the  present  route  now  follows.    Tramway  to  Geldrop.    99  M.  Best. 

105  M.  Boxtel  (Rail.  Restaurant),  situated  at  the  influx  of  the 
Beerze  into  the  Dommel,  junction  for  the  line  from  Goch,  mentioned 
at  p.  368.  The  Utrecht  line  continues  towards  the  N.  (p.  360), 
while  our  line  turns  to  the  W.,  and  farther  on  crosses  the  Niemre 
Ley,  another  tributary  of  the  Dommel. 

1107.2  M.  Oisteni'yk.  —  116  M.  Tilburg  (De  Gouden  Zwaan; 
Hotel  Brox,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  I74-I72,  B.  '/2>  ^-  1V4>  omn.  l/4fl.; 
Hotel- Restaur,  de  la  Station),  a  woollen-manufacturing  town  of 
33,200  inhab.,  with  a  new  Gothic  church.  Tilburg  is  the  junction 
of  the  Hertogenbosch  and  Nymegen  line  mentioned  at  p.  372.  A 
branch-line  also  diverges  here  to  (19  M.)  Turnhout  (p.  135),  and 
a  steam-tramway  to  Waliryk  and  Capelle.  —  123  M.  Gilze-Ryen. 

1287-2  M.  Breda.  —  Hotels.  'De  Kroon,  Ue  Zwaan,  both  in  the 
Boschstraat,  the  principal  street:  Oude  Prins,  near  the  cathedral  and  the 
market-place.  —  Cafe-Restaurants.  Hof  van  Holland,  near  the  Protestant 
church;  RaiUcay  Restaurant. 

Breda,  a  fortitled  town  with  17,200  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Mgrfc 
and  the  Aa,  by  means  of  which  rivers  the  whole  surrounding  country 
can  be  laid  under  water.  The  Protestant  Church  (Hervormde  Kerk) 
near  the  market-place,  a  Gothic  edifice  dating  from  1290  (present 
choir  consecrated  in  1410),  with  a  handsome  tower  recently  restored, 
contains  an  imposing  Renaissance  *Monument  to  Count  Engel- 
bert  II.  of  Nassau,  the  general  and  favourite  of  Emp.  Charles  V., 
and  his  wife  Maria  of  Baden,  by  Thomas  Vincenz  of  Bologna,  who, 
though  a  pupil  of  Raphael,  followed  Michael  Angelo's  style.  The 
figures,  sculptured  in  Italian  alabaster,  repose  on  a  sarcophagus, 
while  four  half- kneeling  statues,  representing  Caesar,  Regulus, 
Hannibal,  and  Philip  of  Macedon,  bear  on  their  shoulders  a  slab 
on  which  is  placed  the  admirably-executed  armour  of  the  count. 
[This  monument  was  the  model  for  that  of  Sir  Francis  Yere  in 
Westminster  Abbey.]  Many  of  the  other  monuments  are  also  in- 
teresting, particularly  those  of  Count  Borgnival  (d.  1536)  and  Dirck 
van  Assendelfl't(d.  1553;  the  latter  much  defaced  by  the  iconoclasts). 
The  choir  contains  some  good  wood-carving,  representing  monks  in 
comical  attitudes,  intended  as  a  satire  on  the  clergy;  a  Renaissance 
font  in  copper;  and  the  tine  brass  of  Willem  van  Gaellen  (Galen; 
executed  after  1539).  —  The  old  castle,  begun  after  1536  under  Hen- 
drik  and  Reinier  of  Nassau  (d.  1544)  by  Thomas  of  Bologna  (see 
above),  was  completed  under  William  of  Orange,  King  of  England, 
by  Jacob  Romans  in  1696.  It  has,  however,  been  completely  altered 
in  converting  it  into  a  military  school.  No  trace  is  now  left  of  the 
former  magnificence  of  this  castle,  in  which  William  of  Orange  and 
Counts  Egmont  and  Horn  conducted  the  preliminaries  for  the  Com- 
promise of  the  Dutch  Nobles  in  1566  (i^omp.  p.  92).  —  The  park 
in  front  of  the  castle,   formerly  called  Hof  van  Valkenberg,    also 


376     Route  f)4.  DORDRECHT.  From  Venlo 

dates  from  the  15th  century.  —  From  Breda  to  Roosendanl  and 
Flushing,  see  R.  35. 

From  Breda  a  Steam  Tkamwat  runs  in  V4  hr.  to  Oosterhout,  where 
it  branches  on  the  one  side  to  (50  min.)  Dongen,  a  small  town  with 
4300inhab.,  and  on  the  other  to  {}l>  hr.)  Geerlruidenherg^  a  fortified  place 
in  the  Biesbosch  (p.  374),  with  1900  inhab.  ,  who  occupy  themselves  in 
fishing,  trade,  and  manufacturing. 

Near  (1351/2  M.)  Langeweg  the  line  crosses  the  D Intel,  passes 
{i^^M.')  Lag  e-Zwaluxve,  the  junction  for  the  line  to  Antwerp  (p.  172), 
and  reaches  the  Bridge  over  the  Hollandsch  Diep ,  an  arm  of  the 
sea  which  was  formed  in  1421  (comp.  p.  374).  This  vast  structure 
was  begun  in  May  1868,  and  (completed  in  November  1871. 

The  breadth  of  the  bay  at  this  point  is  l^js  M.,  but  by  means  of  stone 
piers  projecting  into  the  water  has  been  reduced  to  Vs  M.  This  channel 
is  crossed  by  fourteen  iron  arches  with  a  span  of  110  yds.  each,  and 
15  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  highest  tide,  while  on  the  S.  side  are  two 
swing -bridges  for  the  passage  of  large  vessels.  Upwards  of  1170  tons  of 
iron  and  steel  were  used  in  the  structure.  The  foundations  of  the  thirteen 
stone  buttresses  which  support  the  bridge,  each  50  ft.  long  and  10  ft. 
wide,  were  laid  on  the  pneumatic  system ;  the  foundation  of  the  three 
next  the  S,  bank  is  50-00  ft.  below  low-water  mark.  The  cost  of  the 
bridge  amounted  to  5,709,000  (lorins  (about  475,000JI.),  being  very  much  less 
than  had  been  anticipated.     Fine  view  over  the  expanse  of  water. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  bridge  lies  (1391/2  M.)  Willemsdorp. 

148  M.  Dordrecht.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Bellevue,  near  the  stcamboa 
pier,  [R.,  L.,  &  A.  13/4-31/2,  B.  ^4,  dej.  1,  D.  2  fl. ;  Aux  Akmes  i>e  Hol- 
LANDE  or  Pknnock,  just  behind,  in  the  Wynstraat;  Ponsen,  with  re- 
staurant,   at  the  station,   K,.,  L.,  A.,  &  B.  2-21/2,   dej.  1  fl.  40  c.,  D.  IV4  A. 

Tramway  from  the  station  through  the  town  to  the  Merwe-Kade,  con- 
veying luggage  not  over  66  lbs.  in  weight. 

Dordrecht,  usually  called  Dort  by  the  Dutch,  with  32,400  in- 
hab., the  oldest,  and  in  the  middle  ages  the  most  powerful  and 
wealthy  commercial  city  in  Ilolland,  was  also  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  the  calamitous  inundation  of  1421  (p.  374).  Its  si- 
tuation still  renders  it  an  important  mercantile  place.  The  harbour 
formed  by  the  river,  an  arm  of  the  Maas ,  here  called  Merwede 
(comp.  p.  374),  admits  sea-going  vessels  of  heavy  tonnage  to  the 
very  walls  of  the  town.  The  timber-trade  is  also  very  extensive. 
The  huge  rafts  floated  down  the  Rhine  from  the  forests  of  Germany 
are  generally  broken  up  here,  and  the  wood  is  then  sawn  by  the 
numerous  windmills  in  the  neighbourhood.  Dordrecht  possesses 
numerous  quaint  mediaeval  houses  (Wynstraat,  Voorstraat,  etc.), 
full  of  interest  for  the  student  of  architecture. 

On  leaving  the  station  we  follow  the  tramway,  and,  crossing  a 
canal-bridge,  reach  the  town  in  5  min.;  the  principal  street  leads  in 
5  min.  more  to  the  small  Vischbrug.  Beyond  this  we  may  either 
turn  to  the  left  (Groenmarkt)  towards  the  town-hall  and  the  Groote 
Kerk,  or  to  the  right  (Wyn-Straat)  to  the  museum  (p.  377). 

The  Stndhuis,  erected  in  1850  on  the  site  of  an  older  building, 
contains  several  pictures:  Last  Supper,  by  Blocklandt  (d.  1583); 
Burning  of  the  new  church,  with  good  portraits,  painted  in  1568  by 
Doudyn ;  Samson  and  Delilah,  by  Honthorst  (d.  1662);  the  Synod 


to  notterdnm.  DORDRECHT.  54.  Route.    377 

of  Dordrecht,  by  P.  Weyts ;  Siege  of  Dordrecht  by  John,  Duke  of 
Brabant,  in  1418,  and  Siege  of  Dordrecht  by  the  French  in  1813, 
by  Schouman  and  Schotel. 

The  Gothic  Groote  Kerk  of  the  14th  cent.,  with  choir  of  the 
15th,  with  a  lofty  and  conspicuous  tower,  rests  in  the  interior  on 
56  pillars ,  and  contains  a  handsome  marble  pulpit  executed  in 
1756.  The  fine  old  carved  choir-stalls,  executed  by  Jan  Terween 
Aertsz  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1538-40,  are  the  most  important 
work  of  the  kind  inHolland,  but  are  unfortunately  falling  to  decay. 
Among  the  interesting  representations  on  the  backs  of  the  stalls  is 
one  (left  side)  of  Charles  V.  entering  Dordrecht  in  procession.  A 
screen  of  brass  (18th  cent.)  separates  the  choir  from  the  nave.  A 
simple  monument  has  been  erected  here  to  Schotel  the  Elder  (d. 
1838),  a  painter  of  sea-pieces.  Marble  pulpit  of  1756.  Several 
valuable  ecclesiastical  vessels  are  preserved  in  the  sacristy.  The 
sacristan  lives  on  the  N.  side  of  the  church. 

The  Wynstraat,  diverging  to  the  right  at  the  Vischbrug,  leads 
past  a  small  open  space ,  which  is  embellished  by  a  monument 
erected  in  1862  to  the  eminent  painter  Ary  Scheffer  (1795-1858), 
a  native  of  Dordrecht.  The  bronze  statue  was  designed  by  Mezzera, 
who  declined  to  accept  any  remuneration  for  this  tribute  to  the 
memory  of  his  friend.  —  To  the  right,  farther  on,  stands  the  — 

MusBUM  (daily  9-4;  adm.  10  c.  ;  catalogue  25  c),  a  gallery  of 
pictures,  chiefly  by  modern  Dordrecht  and  other  artists. 

Among  Dutch  artists  are  Ten  Kate  (No.  49),  Koekkoek  (17),  Sclielf- 
hout  (20),  Schotel  (48),  Springer  (78),  and  Versteeg  (69),  L.  de  Koningh, 
Lebret,  Israels  (113),  Vogel,  Rochussen,  etc.  Foreign  artists  are  represented 
by  A.  Achenbach  (1,  2),  Calame  (40),  Gudin  (45),  Alma  Tadema  (102).  etc. 
Among  the  older  masters  may  be  mentioned  F.  Bol  (128).  A.  Cuyp,  A.  de 
Gelder,  Hoogstraaten,  and  Nic.  Maes  (11).  —  The  whole  of  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal walls  of  the  saloon  is  devoted  to  Ary  Schejfer  (see  above),  being  oc- 
cupied by  pictures  (chiefly  copies),  drawings,  and  several  works  in  plaster 
of  Paris  (recumbent  figure  of  his  mother).  The  only  original  paintings 
by  Scheffer  are:  I.  Christ  on  the  Mount  of  Olives;  VII.  Portrait  of  S.  W. 
Reynolds,  the  engraver;  V.  Reduced  repetition  of  the  Christus  Consolator 
(p. "305),  and  IV.  the  artist's  last  unlinished  work  (Matt.  V,  4).  —  We 
also  notice  a  bust  of  the  Grand  Pensionary  Jan  de  Witt,  by  A.  Quellin 
(1665).  —  An  adjoining  room  is  devoted  to  Dordrecht  antiquities,  includ- 
ing a  carved  wooden  chimney-piece  border,  with  the  Contest  of  the  Giants, 
by  J.  Terween  (see  above). 

The  Wynstraat  finally  leads  to  the  bank  of  the  Maas,  opposite 
the  beginning  of  the  arm  known  as  'the  Noord'.  On  the  Merwe- 
Kade,  near  the  Hotel  Bellevue  and  almost  entirely  built  up,  is  a 
brick  gateway  of  1618,  with  reliefs  and  a  dome,  by  H.  de  Keyser. 
A  picturesque  glimpse  of  the  canal  is  obtained  from  the  little 
bridge  behind  the  hotel. 

Dordrecht  occupies  an  important  page  in  the  history  of  Holland,  and 
especially  in  that  of  the  Protestant  faith.  In  1572  the  first  assembly  of 
the  independent  states  of  Holland  was  held  here,  and  resulted  in  the 
foundation  of  the  Repiiblic  of  the  United  Dutch  Provinces.  A  century 
later  William  III.,  Prince  of  Orange,  was  appointed  stadtholder,  com- 
mander-in-chief, and  admiral  of  Holland  for  life  by  the  States  at  Dord- 
recht.    In   1618   and   1619   the  Dutch  Protestant   theologians  assembled  at 


37 S     Route  54.  DORDRECHT. 

a  great  Synod  at  Dordrecht,  with  a  view  to  effect  a  coinpromise  between 
the  adherent,s  of  the  austere  tenets  of  Calvin  (^Gomea-ists)  and  those  of 
the  milder  doctrines  of  Zwingli  (^Arminians").  In  1610  the  latter  had 
addressed  a  'Remonstrance''  (whence  their  name  'Remonstrants',  which 
is  still  used  by  the  States  General),  in  defence  of  their  doctrines.  Dif- 
ferences of  opinion  existed  between  the  two  sects  regarding  tlie  doctrine 
of  divine  grace.  The  Gomarists  lield  that  the  greater  part  of  the  human 
race  was  excluded  from  grace,  which  the  Arminians  denied.  Although 
these  differences  were  now  to  be  discussed ,  the  Calvinists,  who  formed 
the  great  majority  of  the  assembly,  refused  to  give  the  Remonstrants  a 
hearing,  and  unanimously  condemned  them.  Deputies  from  England  and 
Scotland,  Germany  and  Switzerland,  had  been  invfled  l)y  the  Calvinists 
to  a.S8ist  at  the  meeting,  which  lasted  nearly  seven  months,  nnd  is  said 
to  have  cost  the  States  a  million  florins.  The  resolutions  of  the  synod 
were  long  regarded  as  the  law  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  the  Maas  is  crossed  by  a  new  iron 
bridge  of  four  arches  resting  on  six  piers,  and  provided  with  two 
swing-bridges  for  the  passage  of  large  vessels.  loO  M.  ZviyndrecM  ; 
16^^/2  ^-  Barendrecht;  150'/2  M.  Ysselmonde^  opposite  the  influx 
of  the  Dutch  Yssel  into  the  Maas ,  with  a  turreted  chateau.  The 
train  then  crosses  the  new  bridgi^  over  the  Maas  (p.  255j.  A  fine 
view  of  the  river  and  town  is  now  obtained. 

1581/2  M.  Rotterdam,  see  p.  240. 


List 

of  the  Flemish,  Dutch,  and  Belgian  Artists  mentioned  in  the  Hand- 
book, with  biographical  notices. 

Abbreviations:  A.  =  architect;  P.  =  painter;  S.  =  sculptor;  c,  ca.  = 
circa,  about ;  b.  =  horn ;  d.  =  died. 

The  Roman  numerals  refer  to  the  Historical  Sketch  of  Netherlandish 
Art  in  the  Introduction.  The  name  of  a  town  immediately  following:  the 
name  of  an  artist  is  that  of  his  birthplace;  those  at  the  end  of  the  no- 
tice are  the  scenes  of  his  professional  activity.  —  In  the  spelling  of  proper 
names  the  Dutch  ij  is  represented  by  ?/. 


Achfschelling ,  Lucas,  P.,  Brussels; 
15701631. 

Aelst,  O'uillam  (  Willem)  van,  Dutch 
P.  of  Delft;  1620-79.  Delft,  Am- 
sterdam, France,  Italy.  —  Ixii. 

Aertsen ,  Pielei;  surnamed  de  lange 
Pier.  Nether.  P.  of  Amsterdam;  pu- 
pil of  Allart  Claas/  at  Amsterdam  ; 
1508-75.     Amsterdam,  Antwerp. 

Alma- Tad ema,  Loiirens,^.,  Dronryp; 
pupil  of  Leys;  b.  1836.    London. 

Alslooi,  Denis  van,  Landscape  P.; 
al.out  1550-16'25. 

Anvaadt,  Pieter  van,  Dutch  P.,  Deven- 
ter ;  d.  168'2  ;  in  Amsterdam  1672-75. 

Ansiaux ,  Jean  Joseph  EUonove  An- 
toine,  Belg.  P.,  Lietre;  pupil  of 
Vincent;  1764- 1S4U. 

Anthoniszon,  see  Teunisten. 

Antum,  Aei't^  Dutch  P.  of  sea-pieces; 
about  lOiO. 

Apol,  Louis,  v.,  the  Hague;  pupil  of 
Iloppenbrouwers  and  Stortenbe- 
ker;  b.  1850. 

Art/iois,  Jaques  d\  P.,  Brussels;  pu- 
pil  of  .Tan  Mertens;    1613-1665  t?). 

Artz ,  David  Adolphe  Const.,  Dutch 
P.,  the  Hague;  pupil  of  Israels; 
b.  1837. 

Asselun.  Jan,  sum.  Krdbbetje,  Dutch 
P.,  Diepen;  pupil  of  Esaias  van  de 
Velde ;  1610-52.  Amsterdam,  Rome. 
—  Ixi. 

Avont,  Pieter  van  den,  Belg.  P.,  Ma- 
lines,  1600-52.    Antwerp. 

Backer,    Adrian,    P.,    Amsterdam; 

1635-84.     Amsterdam. 
Backer ,   Jacob  A. ,    Dutch   P. ,   Har- 

lingen ;   pupil  of  Lambert  Jacobsz 

at  Leeu  warden  and  of  Rembrandt  at 

Amsterdam ;  1608-51.    Amsterdam. 
Backer,  Jacques  de.  P.,  Antwerp ;  1635 

(36)-84.  —  Ivii. 
Backereel,    Oilles,   P.,    Antwerp;  b, 

1572  (?j.     Antwerp. 
Baeckelmans,  living  A.,  Antwerp. 
Baen,   Jan  de ,   Dutch  P.,   Haarlem; 

pupil  of  his  cousin  Pienians  and  of 

Jacob  Backer;  1033-1702. 


Bakhuizen  (Bakhuyzen),  Jul.  van  de 
Sande-,  P.,  at   the  Hague;  b.  1835. 

Bakhuysen,  Ludvlf,  Dutch  P.,  Emden  ; 
pupil  of  A.  van  Everdingen  and 
IL  Dubbels;  1631-17(.t8.  Amster- 
dam. 

Balen,  Hendrik  van,  the  Elder,  Flem. 
P.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of  Ad.  van 
NoortfO;   1500  (Vj-1632.      Antwerp. 

Baltcn,  Peeter,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp; 
d.  about  1600. 

Barentsz.  Dirck ,  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam; 1534-92. 

Bas-^en .  Barthol.  van,  Dutch  P., 
Delft;  d.  1652.  The  Hague  and 
Delft. 

Bauer,  Nicolaas,  P.,  Harlingen  ;  1767- 
1820. 

Baurscheit,  Jean  Pierre  van.,  the 
Younger,  S.  and  A.,  Antwerp;  pu- 
pil of  his  father;  1699-1768.  Ant- 
werp. 

Beeckman,  Andries,  P.,  Deventer ;  17th 
century. 

Beelt,  Cornelis,  P.,  Haarlem;  about 
1660. 

Beers,  Jan  van,  Flem.  P.,  Lierre;  b. 
1852. 

Beerstraaten,  Jan,  Dutch  P.,  pupil 
of  his  brother  Alexander  B,  (V) ; 
worked  about  1622-26. 

Beerstraten,  Anthonie,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam (middle  of  the  17th  cent.). 

Bega,  Coi'nelis,  Dutch  P.,  Haarlem; 
pupil  of  A.  van  Ostade;  1020-64, 
Haarlem.  —  lix. 

Berchem  or  Berghem,  C'laes  IHetersz, 
Dutch  P.,  Haarlem;  1620-83.  Italy, 
Haarlem,  Amsterdam.  —  Ixi. 

Berck-Heyde,  Gerrit,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem ;  supposed  to  have  been  a  pu- 
pil of  his  elder  brother  Job;  1638- 
98.     Haarlem. 

Berck-IIeyde,  Job,  P.,  Haarlem;  pupil 
of  Jac(jb  de  Wet;  1630-93. 

Bithune  d'/dewalle,  Jean,  living  P. 
on  glass  at  Ghent. 

Beyaert,  11.,  living  Belg.  A. 

Beyeren,  Alirnham  Hendriktz  van, 
Dutch   P..  the   Hague;    1621-74  (V). 


380 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


Biifve^    Edouard   de ,   P.,  Brussels; 

pupil  of  Paelinck ;  1808-82.  Brussels, 

Paris. 
Bilders^    Johannes    Warnardiis,    P., 

Utrecht;  b.  1811. 
Biset,   Karel  Emanuel,   P.,  Malines; 

studied  at  Paris ;  1633-85,  Antwerp, 

Breda. 
Bisschop,  Christoffel,  Dutch  P.,  Leeu- 

warden ;   pupil  of  W.  H.  Schmidt 

and  H.  van  Hove;  b.  1828. 
BlancJiaert,  living  S.  at  Ghent;   pu- 
pil of  Bethune. 
Bleker,  Dirck  ^    Dutch   P.,    Haarlem; 

1622-72  (?).  Amsterdam,  The  Hague. 
Bles^   David ^   Dutch  P.,   the  Hague; 

pupil  of  Ciirn.  Kruseman ;  b.  1821. 
Bles^    Herri  (Hendrik)   de,   or  Herri 

met  de  Bles,  sum.  Civetta ,  Nether. 

P.  of  Bouvignes,  near  Namur;  b. 

about   1480,  d.   after  1521.     Italy, 

Netherlands. 
Blocklandt,    Anthonie    van    Montfort, 

sum.  van  Bl.,  P.,  Montfort;   1532- 

83.     Utrecht. 
Bloemaert,  Abraham,  Dutch  P.,  Gor- 

cum;  1564-c.  1651.     Utrecht.  —  li. 
Bloemaert,  Hendrik,  P..  son  and  pupil 

of  the  last;   1601-72.    Utrecht  and 

Italy. 
Blommei't,  Bernardus  Johannes,  P.,  the 

Hague;  pupil  of  Bisschop;  b.  1845. 
Dlondeel,  Lancelot,  Netherlandish  P. 

&  A.,  Bruges;   studied  in  Italy;  c. 

1495-1561.     Bruges. 
Blyhooft,  Zacharias,  Dutch  P.,    Mid- 

delburg;  d.  1682. 
Bockhorst,  Johan  van,  sum.  Langjan. 

P.,  Miinster  in  Westphalia;   pupil 

of  Jordaens ;  1610  (?)-68.   Antwerp. 
Boeyermans,  Theodore,'?.,  Antwerp; 

1620-77.    Antwerp. 
Bol,  Ferdinand,  Dutch  P. ,  Dordrecht ; 

pupilof  Rembrandt;  1616-80.    Am- 
sterdam. —  Ivi. 
Boone,  Daniel,  Dutch  P.,  Middelburg; 

1631? -98.     London,  Amsterdam. 
Boonen ,    Arnold,    Dutch  P.,    Dord- 
recht;  1669-1729.    Dordrecht,    Am 

sterdam,  Germany. 
Borselen,  Jan   Willem  van,  Dutch  P., 

Gouda;  b.  1825. 
Bosboom,  Jan,  P.,  the  Hague;  pupil 

of  Van  Brde;  b.  1817.    The  Hague. 
Bosch,  Hieron.  van  Aken,   surnamed 

B.,    Flem.    P.,    's  Hertogenbosch ; 

1462-1516. 
Bossuet,  Frangois  Antoine,  P.,  Ypres; 

b.  1800.    Brussels. 
Both,  Andries,  P.,   Utrecht;   brother 

of  Jan    B.,    pupil    of   his    father, 

Bloemaert,   and  (at  Rome)   Pieter 

van  Laar;  b.  ca.  1609,  d.  ca.  1644. 


Both,  Jan,  Dutch  P.,  Utrecht;  pupil 
of  Abr.  Bloemaert;  1610-52.  Rome, 
Utrecht,  —  Ixii, 

Bource,  Henri  Jacques,  Genre  P.,  Ant- 
werp; pupil  of  Wappers  &  Dyck- 
mans ,  and  of  Ary  Scheiler  in  Pa- 
ris; b.  1826.     Antwerp. 

Boure,  Antoine  Filix ,  living  S., 
Brussels. 

Bouts,  Dierick  (Dirk),  formerly  erro- 
neously called  Stuerbout,  P.,  Haar- 
lem; 1400  00-75.    Louvain,  —   xlii. 

Braekeleer,  Ferdinand  de  ,  P. ,  Ant- 
werp; pupil  of  J.  van  Bree;  1792- 
1883.     Antwerp. 

Brakenburgh,  Richard,  P.,  Haarlem; 
pupil  of  Adr.  van  Ostade  (V) ;  1650- 
1702.     Haarlem. 

Bra7i ,  Jan  de,  Historical  P.;  b.  at 
Haarlem,  d,  1697. 

Brie,  Matthias  Ignatius  van.  P.,  S., 
&  A.,  pupil  of  J.  van  Regemorter 
at  Antwerp  and  Vincent  in  Paris; 
1773-1839.     Antwerp. 

Br4e ,  Philippus  Jacobus  van ,  P., 
brother  of  Matthias;  P'lp.  of  his 
brother  and  Girodet  in  Paris ; 
1786-1871.     Pavia,  Paris,  I'.russels. 

Breen,  Adam  van,  Dutch  P. ;  beginn- 
ing of  the  17th  cent. ;  the  Hague, 
Amsterdam. 

Breitner,  George  Hendrik,  Dutch  P., 
Rotterdam :  pupil  of  W.  Maris  :  b. 
1857. 

Brekelenkam ,  Quiringh  van ,  Dutch 
P.;  flourished  ca.  1653-69. 

Breton,  Jules  Adolphe,P.,  Courrieres; 
pupil  of  De  Vigne  and  Drolling ; 
b.  1827. 

Breuck,  Jacques  de,  A.  &  P,  of  the 
16th  cent.  St.  Omer. 

Breughel,  see  Brueghel. 

Bril,  Paulus,  Flemish  P.,  Antwerp; 
1554-1626.     Rome.  —  xliv, 

Bronchorst,  Jan  Gerritz  van,  Dutch  P, 
and  artist  in  stained  glass,  Utrecht; 
b,  1603,  d.  ca,  1661.  Amsterdam. 

Brouwer,  Adrian,  Flem,  P,,  Oude- 
naerde;  pup.  of  Frans  Hals  at 
Haarlem  and  of  Rubens  at  Ant- 
werp; c.  1605-38.  Antwerp.  —  lix, 

Brueghel,  Jan,  sum.  Fluweelen  or 
Velvet  Brueghel,  Flem.  P.,  Brussels  ; 
son  of  P.  Brueghel  the  Elder;  1568- 
1625.     Italy,  Antwerp.  —  xliv, 

Brueghel,  Peeter,  the  Elder,  surii. 
Peasant  Bruegliel,  Flem.  P.,  Breda; 
c. 1520-69.  Antwerp,  Brussels.  —  xliv. 

Brueghel,  Pieter,  the  Younger,  sum. 
Hell-fire  Brueghel,  Flem.  P,  of 
Brussels ;  son  of  P,  B,  the  Elder ; 
1564-1638.    Antwerp.  —  xliv, 

Bruyn  ,   Bartholomaeus  de ,    Ger.  P., 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


381 


Cologne;  b.  ca.  1493,  flourished  at 
Cologne  between  1524  and  1560. 

Burgfi,  R.  van  der,  Dutch  P.  of  still- 
life;  end  of  the  17th  century. 

Buytetiwei/,  Willem,  P.,  Rotterdam; 
pupil  of  H.  Maartensz;  b.  before 
1600.     Haarlem. 

Qalloigne.,  Jan  Robbei't,   S.,   Bruges; 

1775-1830.     Bruges,    Paris,    Rome, 

Ghent. 
Camerarius,  Adam,    Dutch   portrait- 
painter  ;      1644  -  85.      Amsterdam , 

Naarden. 
Camphuysen^  Govert,  Dutch  P.,  Gor- 

cum;  1623(24)-72.  Amsterdam. 
Capronnier,  J.  B.,  living  P.  (glass), 

Brussels. 
Carlier,  Jean  Guillaume ,  P.,    Liege; 

pupil   of  Berth.  Fle'malle;    c.  163^ 

to  c.  1675.     Liege,  France. 
Cate,   Hendi'ik  Gerrit  ten,  Dutch   P., 

Amsterdam  ;  pupil  of  Westenberg  ; 

1803-56. 
Cauwer,    Joseph    de,    P.,    Beveren; 

1778-1854.     Ghent. 
Cels,    Cornelis,  P.,  Lierre ;  pupil  of 

A.  Lens  at  Brussels;  1778-1859. 
Ceulen,  van,  see  Janssens,  Cornelis. 
Champaigne,  Philippe  de.  P.,  Brussels  ; 

pupil  of  Fouquieres  &  L'Allemand 

at  Paris ;  1602-74.  Brussels,  Paris. 
Charle- Albert,  living  P.  &  A.,  Brussels. 
Chauvin,  August,  P.,  Aix-la-Chapelle ; 

b.  1818.     Liege. 

Claeissens,  Anthonie ,  the  Elder,  P., 
Antvperp;  pupil  of  Quinten  Mas- 
sys  CO;  c.  1498. 

Claeissens,  Anthonie,  the  Younger,  P., 
Bruges;  b.  1614. 

Claesz,  Pieter,  van  Haerlem,  Dutch 
P. ,  Haarlem ;  father  of  Claesz 
Pieter  Berchem;  d.  1661. 

Clays ,  Paul  Jean ,  living  P.  (sea- 
scenes)  ,  pupil  of  Gudin ;  b.  at 
Bruges  in  1819;  Brussels. 

Cleef,  Jan  van.  P.,  Venlo ;  pupil  of 
Luigi  Primo,  and  of  Gaspar  de 
Crayer;  1646-1716.     Ghent. 

Cluy senaar, Alfred ,  living  P., Brussels. 

Cocx,  see  Coques. 

Codde,  Pieter,  Dutch  P..  Amsterdam  ; 

c.  1600-77.  —  Ix. 
Coeberger,  see  Koeberger. 

Colyn,  Jacob  de  Nole  (or  van  Kame- 
ryck),  S.,  d.  1631.  Vtrecht,  Kam- 
pen,  etc. 

Goninck  ,  David  de ,  Flem.  P.,  Ant- 
werp; i636-99(?).  Antwerp, Brussels. 

Coninxloo,  Gillis  van,  Flem.  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  1544-1608  (•?).  Antwerp, 
Franckenthal,  and  Amsterdam. 

Cocmans,   Pierre    Olivier  Joseph,  P., 


Brussels;  pupil  of  P.  v.  Hasselaere, 
De  Keyser,  &  Wappers;  b.  1816. 

Coques  or  Cocx,  Gonzales  ( Gonsalve), 
Flem.  P.,  Antwerp;  jnipil  of  the 
portrait- painter  Peeter  Brueghel 
(son  of  'Hell-tire  BruegheL)  and  of 
David  Ryckaert  the  Younger;  1614- 
84.    Antwerp. 

Coxie  (Cocxie,  Coxcien,  or  Coxcyen). 
Michiel  van.  P.,  Malines;  pupil  of 
his  father  Michiel  and  of  Barend 
van  Orley ;  1499-1592.  Malines  and 
Brussels.  —  xliv. 

Crabeth,  Dirk,  P.  on  glass;  flourished 
at  Gouda,  c.  1557-68. 

Crabeth,  Wouter,  P.  on  glass,  brother 
of  Dirk  C. ;  Gouda,  after  1560. 

Craesbeeck,  Joos  (Josse)  van,  Flem. 
P.,  Neer-Linter.  1608  (?)-1654.  Ant- 
werp &  Brussels. 

Crayer  or  Craeyer,  Gaspar  de,  Flem. 
P.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of  Raphael  van 
Coxie  at  Brussels,  and  the  chief 
Flem.  P.  of  his  time  outside  of 
Rubenss  school;  1584-1669.  Brus- 
sels &  Ghent.  —  xlix. 

Cristus,  Petrus,  Flemish  P.,  Baerle; 
14i4-72  in  Bruges.  —  xli. 

Cuylenburg.  Cornelis  uan.  P.,  Utrecht; 
1754-1823.     The  Hague. 

Cuyp,  Albert,  Dutch  P.,  Dordrecht; 
pupil  of  his  father  Jacob  Gerritsz 
C. ;  1620-91.     Dordrecht.  —  Ixi. 

Cuyp,  Jacob  Gerritsz,  Dutch  P.,  Dord- 
recht; pupil  of  Abr.  Bloemaert; 
1594-1651  (52).    Dordrecht.  —  liii. 

Cuyper,  Joannes  Baptista  de,  S.,  Ant- 
werp; 1807-52. 

Cuyper,  Joannes  Leonardus  de,  S., 
Antwerp;  son  of  the  foregoing. 

CMi/;>er«,P./.Zr.,livingA.,  Amsterdam. 

Czermak,  Jaroslav ,  P.,  Prague;  pupil 
of  Gallait  at.  Brussels  and  Robert- 
Fleury  at  Paris;  1831-79.    Paris. 

Havid,  Gerard,  Dutch  P.,  Ouwater; 
c.  1483-1523.  Bruges  and  Ant- 
werp. —  xlii. 

David,  Jacques  Louis,  P.,  Paris ;  1748- 
1825.     Paris,  Brussels. 

Debay,  Jean  Baptiste  Joseph ,  the  El- 
der, S.,  Malines;  1779-1863 

Decaisne,  Henri,  P.,  Brussels;  pupil 
of  P.  J.  C.  Francois,  J.  L.  David, 
Girddet,  and  Gros  at  Paris;  1799- 
1852.    Paris. 

Decker,  Cornelis,  Dutch  P. ;  pupil  of 
Salomon  van  Ruvsdael;  entered 
the  Haarlem  Guild  "in  1643;  d.  1678. 
Haalem. 

Delcour,  Jan,  S.,  Hamoir;  b.  in  the 
middle  of  the  17th  cent.,  d.  1707. 
Liege. 


382 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


JJdett,  Dirk  van,  Dutch  P.,  Ileusdeii ; 
pupil  of  Frans  Hals;  1605  to  1671. 
Arnemuyden,  Haarlem,  Delft,  Ant- 
werp. 
Delff,  Jacob,  P.,  Delft;  son  and  pupil 
of  Willem  .Jacobsz  D.,  grandson  of 
Johannes  1). ;  1619-61.  Delft. 
Delff",  Jacob  Willemsz,  P.,  Gouda:  d. 

1601.     Delft. 
DelfT,   Roc/ius,  P.,  Delft;  son  of  Ja- 
cob Willemsz  D.    Delft. 
Dehaux,  Eduard.  P.,  Brussels;  pupil 

of  Henri  van  Asschc;  1806-62. 
Delvaux,  Laurent,    S.,  Ghent;   pupil 
of  Dieudonne  Plumier  at  Brussels ; 
1695-1778. 
Deventer,  Willem  Anthonievan,^.,  The 
Hague;  pupil  of  Jul.  van  de  Sande- 
Bakhuyzen;  b.  1824. 
Devigne-Quyo,  Peti-us,  S.,  Ghent;  pu- 
pil of  J.  R.  Calloitine;  1812-77. 
Deyster,  Lodewyk  de,^.,  Bruges;  pu- 
pil of  Jan  Maes ;  1656-1711.  Bruges. 
Diepenbeeck,  Abraham  van,  Flem.  P., 
Bois-le-Duc;  pupil    of  Kubens;   c. 
1509-1675.     Antwerp.  —  xlix. 
Dillens,  Adolph,  P.,  Ghent;   pupil  of 

his  brother  Hendrik  D. ;  1821-77. 
Docs,  Simon  van  der,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam CO ;  1653-1717.  The  Hague, 
London,  Brussels,  Antwerp. 
Don  or  Dov ,  Gerard  (0  err  it),  Dutch 
P.,  Leyden;  pupil  of  the  engraver 
Bart.  Dolendo,  of  the  glass-painter 
P.  Couwenhorn,and  of  Rembrandt; 
1613-75.  Leyden.  —  Ivii. 
Doudyns ,    Willem,    Dutch    P.,    The 

Hague  ;  1630-97.     The  Hague. 
DroocJisloot,  Joost  Coriielisz,^.,  flour- 
ished at  Utrecht;  1586 (VJ  -1666. 
Drost.    Geraert,    P.;    c.    1638    to    c. 

1690. 
Dubbels,  Ilendrick,  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam, 1620-76  (?).     Amsterdam. 
Ducaju,  JosepJi  Jacques,  living  P.  & 

S.,  Antwerp. 
Duchatel    (Duchastel    or   Du    Chatel), 
Frangois,  Fleni.  P.,   Brussels;   pu- 
pil of  David  Teniers  the  Younger; 
1625-94.    Brussels,  Paris. 
Duck,  J.  A.,  Dutch  P.,  Utrecht;  1600- 
60.    Utrecht  and  the  Hague.  —  Ix. 
Ducq,  Jan  le,  Dutch  animal-painter; 

1636-95. 
Dujardin,  see  Jardin. 
Duquesnoy,    Frangois,   S.,    Brussels: 
pupil  of  his  father,  and  a  student 
of  Poussin's  and  Titian's  works  at 
Rome;    1594-1644  (42V).      Brussels, 
Rome. 
Duquesnoy,    Henry    or    Hieronymus, 
S.,  Brussels:  father  of  Francois  & 
Jerome  D. 


Duquesnoy,  Jir&inc,  S. ,  brother  of 
Francois;  1612-54. 

Durlet,  Frangois  Andre,  8.,  A.,  «i  P., 
Antwerp,  pupil  of  Laenen  and  F. 
Berkmans;  1816-67. 

Dusart,  Cornelis,  the  Younger,  Haar- 
lem ;  pupil  of  Adr.  v.  Ostade;  1660- 
1704.  —  lix. 

Dyck^  Antonius  (Anthonis,  Anthony, 
or  Antonio)  van,  Flem.  P.,  Ant- 
werp; 1599-1641.  Antwerp,  Lon- 
don, Genoa,  Rome.  —  xlix. 

Dyckmans,Jo.<<eph  Laurens,  P.,  Lierre; 
pupil  of  Vervoort,  Thielemans, 
Wappers ;  1811-iaS8. 

Dyk,  Philip  (Philips)  van,  Dutch 
P.,  Amsterdam;  pupil  of  Arnold 
Boonen;  1680-1753.  Amsterdam, 
The  Hague,  Middelburg,  Cassel. 

Eeckhout,  Oerbrand  van  den,  Dutch  P., 
Amsterdam;  1621-74.  Amsterdam. 
—  Ivi. 

Eeckhout,  Jacob  Joseph,  Dutch  P.  & 
S.,  Antwerp ;  1793-1861.  The  Hague, 
Malines,  Brussels,  Paris. 

Eelkema,  Eelke  Jelles,  P.,  Lccuwaar- 
den;  1788-1839. 

Eggcrs,  Bavtholemeus ,  S.  probably 
from  N.  Germany;  1660-90.  The 
Hague,  Berlin. 

Ekels,  Jan,  the  Younger,  Dutch  P., 
Amsterdam;    1759-93.   Amsterdam. 

Elias,  mcoZaejs,  DutchP.;  1590-1650. 
Amsterdam.  Teacher  of  Van  der 
Heist. 

Elshaimer  (Elzheimer) ,  Adorn,  P., 
Frankfort  on  the  Main ;  1578-1620. 
Rome. 

Engelbertz  or  Engelbrechlsen,  Corne- 
lis, P.,  Leyden;  1468-1533. 

Everdingen,  Allart  van,  Dutch  P., 
Alkmaar;  pupil  of  Roel.  Savery 
a'trecht);  1621-75.  Alkmaar,  Haar- 
lem, Amsterdam.  —  Ixi. 

Everdingen,  Caesar van,V.,  Alkmaar, 
elder  brother  of  Allart  v.  E. ;  1606- 
79.     Alkmaar,  Haarlem. 

Eyck,  Hubert  van.  P.,  Maaseyck;  bead 
of  the  earlv  Flemish  school;  c. 
1366-1426.     Ghent.  —  xxxix. 

Eyck,  Jan  van.  P.,  Maasevck,  brother 
of  Hubert  van  Eyck;  b.  after  1380, 
d.  1440.  Ghent,  The  Hague,  Lille, 
Bruges.  —  xl. 

Eycken,  Jean-Baptiste  van.  P.,  Brus- 
sels; pupil  ofNavez;  1817-53.  Brus- 
sels. 

Eyckens,  see  Ykens. 

Fabritiits,  Bernard,  Dutch  P. ,  Delft ; 
ca.  1620-69.  -  Ivii. 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


383 


Fabritiut,  Karel ,    Dutch  P.,    Dellt; 

16ai-54.     Delft,^—  Ivii. 
Fayd'/ierbe,  Lucas,  S.  &  A.,  Malines ; 

?upil  of  Max  TAbb^  aud  Rubens ; 
617-94.    Malines. 

Fictoor,  see  Victors. 

Fictor,  see   Victor. 

Fleinalle  (Flemael,  Fldmal,  Flaiiiael), 
Bertholet,  P.,  Liege;  pupilof  llendr. 
Trippez  &  Gerard  Do ullet;  1G14-75. 
Florence,  Paris,  Brussels,  Lioge. 

Flhick,  Goverty  Dutch  P.,  Cleve;  pu- 
pil (if  Lauiliert  Jacobs/,  at  Leeu- 
warden  and  nf  Kembrandt  at  Ams- 
terdam. 1615-lO.Amsterdam.  —  Ivii. 

Floi'iK.,  see   Vriendt. 

Fouiinois.  Thdodoi'e,  P.,  Presles;  1814- 
1871. 

Fraitin,  Charles  Auguste.,  S.,  Ueren- 
thals;  b.  1819.    Brussels. 

Francfioijs,  see  Francois. 

Franck,  Jecm,  S.,  Ohent;  pupil  of 
his  father  Charles  F. ,  and  of  Da- 
vid d'Angers  (Paris);  b.  18U4.  Ant- 
werp, Paris,   Louvain. 

Francken,  Ambrosius,  the  Elder,  P., 
llereathals;  brother  of  Frans  F. 
the  Flder  and  .T.  Francken  the  El- 
der, pupil  of  Marten  de  Vos  ((ir 
Fr.  FlorisV);  1545  (V)-1G1S.  Ant- 
werp. 

Francken,  Frans  (Frangois),  the  Elder, 
Ilereiithals;  bnither  of  the  preced- 
ing and  of  .T.  F.  the  Klder,  pupil 
of  Fr.  Floris;  1.541-1G16.  Antwerp. 

Francken,  Frans,  the  Youmjer,  Flem. 
P.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of  his  father 
Frans  F,  the  Klder  (and  of  llubens); 
1581-1642.    Antwerp, 

I'rangois  (Franchoys),  Lucas,  the  El- 
der, P.,  Malines;  1574-1643. 

Francois,  Pierre  Joseph  (Mlestin ,  P., 
Namur;  pupil  of  Andr.  Lens;  b. 
1759.    Brussels. 

Fyt,  Jan,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp ;  pupil  of 
.Ian  van  Berch  ;  1609-1661.  Antwerp. 

Gabriel,  Paulus  Joseph,  P.  &  S.,  Am- 
sterdam ;  pupil  of  his  father,  Castel- 
lier  f  Paris),  and  Canova;  1785-1833. 
Amsterdam. 

Gaesbeeck ,  Adriaen  van,  Dutch  P., 
Leyden;  d.  165U.  —  Ivii. 

Gareinyn,  Jan,  P.;  1712-99.  Bruges. 

Gallait.  Louis,  P.,  Tournai;  pupil  of 
Hennequin  (IJubens,  Van  Dyck)  ; 
1816-1887.  Tournai, Paris,  Brussels. 

Geefs,  Joseph,  P.,  Antwerp;  1808-60. 
Antwerp. 

Geefs,  Karl,  living  P.,  Brussels. 

Geefs,  Willem  or  Guillaume,  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  brother  of  .Toseph  G.,  pupil  of 
Kamage  (Paris);  180(3-83.  Antwerp. 


Geel,  Johannes  Franciscus  van,  S., 
Malines;  pupil  of  Pieter  de  Valck  ; 
1756-1830.     Malines,  Antwerp. 

Geeraerts ,  Martin  Joseph,  P.,  Ant- 
werp; pupil  of  Abr.  Godyn;  1707- 
91.    Antwerp. 

Oeertgen  van  St.  Jans,  Dutch  P.,  end 
of  the  loth  cent. ;  Haarlem. 

Geerts,  Karel  Ilendrik,  S.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Van  Hool  and  Van  der 
Ven  (Antwerp);  1807-55.  Antwerp, 
Louvain. 

Geest,  Wybrandt  de,  Dutch  P.,  Leeu- 
warden;  1590-1659 (V).  Paris,  Rome, 
Leeuwarden. 

Geirnaert,  Jozef,  P.,  Eecloo;  pupil 
of  Herreyns  (Antwerp)  and  Pae- 
linck  (Ghent);  1790-1859. 

Gelder,  Aert  de ,  Dutch  P.,  Dord- 
recht; last  pupil  of  Rembrandt; 
1^15-1727.     Dordrecht. 

Geldorp,  6'oW2ms,  P.,  Louvain  ;  1553- 
1616.     Antwerp,  Cologne.  —  xliv. 

Gempt,  Bernhard  te,  Dutch  P.,  Wy- 
chen  ;  pupil  of  N.Pieneman  ;  1826-79. 

Ghent,  Josse  (Justus)  van.  P.,  Ghent; 
pupil  of  Hubert  van  Kyck  (?);  b. 
ca.  1410,  d.  after  1471. 

Glierardo  delta  Notte,  see  Ilvnthorst. 

Glauber,  Johannes,  Dutch  P.,  Utrecht ; 
pupil  of  Berchem;  1646-1724.  Ham- 
liurg.  Amsterdam,  the  Hague. 

Godecharle,  G.  L.,  S.,  Brussels;  pu- 
pil of  Delvaux;  1750-1835.  Brussels. 

Goes,  Hugo  van  der.  P.,  Antwerp 
(Ghent  or  Bruges?);  c.  1420-82. 
Bruges,  Ghent.  —  xli. 

Ooltzius,  Ilendrik,  P.,  Miihibrecbt; 
1558-1616.     Haarlem. 

Goltzius,  Hubert,  P.,  Wiirzburg;  pu- 
pil of  his  father  Iliidiger  Goltzius 
&  of  Lamb.  Lombard  (Liege);  1526- 
83. —xliv. 

Gossart  or  Gossaerl,  Jan,  sum.  Jan 
van  Maubeuge  or  Mabuse,  Dutch 
P.,  Maubeuge;  c.  1470-1.541.  Ant- 
werp, Middelburg,  Utreclit.  —  xliv, 

Goubau,  Anioine,  P.,  Antwerp;  1616- 
98.    Antwerp. 

Goubau,  Frangois,  P.,  Antwerp;  1622- 
78(9).     Antwerp. 

Goiidt,  Ilendrik  van,  P.,  Utrecht;  pu- 
pil of  Adam  Elshaimer  at  RomQ. 
1585-1630.  —  li. 

Govaerts,  Abraham,  Landscape-pain- 
ter of  the  17th  cent.,  in  the  style 
of  Savery. 

Goyen,  Jan  van,  Dutch  P.,  Leyden; 
pupil  of  Isaac  van  Swanenburgb, 
Jan  de  Man,  and  Willem  Gerritsz 
(Leyden);  1596-1656.  Leyden,  The 
Hague.  —  Ixi. 

Grebber,  Frans  Fietersz  de,  P.,  Haar- 


384 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


lem;  pupil  of  Cornel,  van  Haar- 
lem ;  1579-1649.  —  liii. 

Grebier^  IHeter  de,  P.,  Haarlem  ;  son 
of  the  preceding,  pupil  of  his  father 
and  Hendrik  Goltzius;  b.  160U,  d. 
after  1665. 

Greive^  Joh.  Conr.,  P.,  Amsterdam; 
pupil  of  P.  F.  Greive  and  G.  Sprin- 
ger ;  b.  1837. 

Greive,  Petrus  Franciscus,  P.,  Amster- 
dam; pupil  of  C.  J.  L.  Portman; 
b.  1817-8U. 

Groux,  Charles  Comeille  Auguste  de, 
P.,  Comines;  1825-70. 

Grupello,  Gabriel  de,  S.,  Geersberge; 
pupil  of  Artus  Quellinus  fV);  1644- 
17ck).     Brussels,  Germany. 

Gruyter,  Willem,  P.,  Amsterdam;  b. 
1817-80. 

Gujfens,  Gottfried,  P.,  Ilasselt;  pupil 
of  N.  de  Keyser(Antwerp)  ;b.  1823. 

'H.aanen,  Adriana  Johanna,  Dutch  P., 
Oosterhout;  b.  1814. 

Haas,  Jean  Hubert  Leonard  de,  living 
animal-painter,  Hedel;  b.  1882. 

Hackaert  (Haekaert,  Hakkert),  Jan, 
Dutch  P.,  Amsterdam;  1629-1699. 
Amsterdam. 

Haerlem,  Comelis  van,  Dutch  P., 
Haarlem  ;  1562-1638.  Haarlem.  — 
liii. 

Hagen,  Joris  van  der  (Verhagen), 
Dutch  P.,  the  Hague  (Ruysdael); 
1635-1669.     The  Hague. 

Hals,  Dirk,  Dutch  P.,  Haarlem;  pu- 
pil of  his  elder  brother  Frans  H. ; 
b.  before  1600,  d.  1656.  Haarlem. 
—  Ix. 

Hals,  Frans,  the  Elder,  Dutch  P., 
Antwerp  (VJ ;  1580-1666.  Haarlem.  — 
Iviii. 

Hals,  Frans,  the  Younger,  Dutch  P., 
Haarlem ;  son  and  pupil  of  the 
preceding;  flourished  at  Haarlem, 
1637-69. 

Hamman,  Edouard  Jean  Conrad,  P., 
Ostend;  b,  1819.    Paris. 

Hanselaere,  Pieter  van,  Flem.  P., 
Ghent;  pupil  of  P.  van  Huflel ; 
1786-1862. 

Hauck,  Aug.  Christian,^.,  Mannheim; 
1742-1801.    Rotterdam. 

Haverman,  Handrik  Johan,  P.,  Am- 
sterdam ;  b.  1857. 

Heda,  Willem  Klaasz,  P.,  Haarlem; 
b.  1594^  d.  after  1678. 

Heem,  Corn,  de,  Dutch  P.,  Vtrecht 
(V);  Son  and  pupil  of  the  follow- 
ing; b.  1623  (?),  d.  after  1671.  Ant- 
werp, The  Hague. 

Heem,  Jan  Davidsz  de,  Dutch  P.,  Ut- 
recht; pupil   of  his  father  David; 


1606 (Vj.83/84.  Utrecht,  Antwerp.— 
Ixi. 
Heemskerck,  Maerlen  van  (properly  M. 
van  Veen),  Dutch  P.,  Heemskerck; 
pupil  of  J.  van  Scorel  (Italy,  Uli- 
chael  Angelo) ;  1498-1574.  Haarlem. 

—  H. 

Heemskerck  van  Beest,  Jacob  Eduard 
van,   Dutch  P.,  Kampen;  b.  1828. 

Heere ,  Lucas  de.  P.,  Ghent;  pupil 
of  his  father  Jan,  of  his  mother 
Anna  Smyters ,  and  of  Frans  Fie- 
ri s;  1534(V)-84. 

Heerschop,  Hendrik,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem; pupil  of  Heda  and  Rembrandt ; 
1620-72  (•?). 

Heil,  Daniel  van,^.,  1604-G2.  Brussels. 

Heist,  BarthoUnneus  van  der,  Dutch 
P.,  Haarlem;  1611-1670.  Amster- 
dam. —  Iviii. 

Hemessen  (Heemsen,  Hemsen,  Heinis- 
sen),  Jan  van,  Flem.  P. ;  d.  before 
15G6.     Antwerp. 

Hennebicq,  Andre,  living  P.,  Tour- 
nai;  pupil  of  Portaels.     Mons. 

Herreyns,  Guillaume  Jacques,  Flem. 
P.  &  A.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of  his 
father  Jacques  H. ;  1743-1827.  Ant- 
werp, Malines. 

Heusch ,  Willem  de  ,  P. ,  Utrecht ; 
1638  (?)- 1699  (V). 

Heuvel,  Antoine  van  den,  sum .  Don 
Antonio,  P.,  Ghent;  pupil  of  Gas- 
par  de  Graver  or  N.  Koose;  1600- 
77.     Ghent." 

Heyden,  Jan  van  der,  P.,  Gorcum; 
1637-1712.    Amsterdam.  —  Ixii. 

Hilverdink,  Johannes,  Dutch  P.,  Gro- 
ningen;  pupil  of  Daiwaille  and  J. 
W.  Pieneman;  b.  1813. 

Hobbema ,  Meindert ,  Dutch  P. ,  Am- 
sterdam ;    1638-1709.     Amsterdam. 

—  Ixi. 

Hoeck  (Hoecke),  Jan  van  den.  P., 
Antwerp;  pupil  of  Rubens ;  1598- 
1G51.     Antwerp.  —  1. 

Hoet,Gerard,\)utch  P.,  Bommel ;  1648- 
1733.     Utrecht,  the  Hague. 

Hondecoeter,  Gillis  d\  Dutch  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  flourished  at  Utrecht  and 
Amsterdam  in  1609-37;  d.  1637. 

Hondecoeter,  Melchior  d\  Dutch  P., 
Utrecht;  pupil  of  his  father Gysbert 
(i  1653)  and  his  uncle  J.  B.  Weenix; 
1636-95.     The  Hague,  Amsterdam. 

Hondius,  Abraham,  P.,  Rotterdam; 
1638-95.     Rotterdam,  London. 

Honthorst,  Gerard  van,  surn.  Ghe- 
rardo  della  Notte ,  Dutch  P, ,  Ut- 
recht; pupil  of  Bloemaert  at  Ut- 
recht (Caravagiiio  at  Rome);  1590- 
1656.  Utrecht,  The  Hague,  Lon- 
don. —  li. 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


385 


Ilooch^  Pietei'  de  (sometimes  HoogTi  or 
Hooge),  Dutch  P.,  Rotterdam ;  1030- 
81.    Delft,  Haarlem  (?).  —  Ivii. 

Iloogstt'ofen,  Samuel  van^  Dutch  P., 
the  Hague;  pupil  of  his  father  Dirk 
and  of  Rembrandt-,  1626-1678.  Rome, 
London,  the  Hague,  Dordrecht. 

Hool,  Johann  Baptist  van^  S.,  Ant- 
werp ;  pupil  of  Van  Ursel ;  1709- 
1837.    Antwerp. 

Eoubraken,  Afnold,  Dutch  P.,  Dor- 
drecht; 1660-1719. 

Uove,  Barthol.  Joh.  van^  P.,  the 
Hague;  1790-1880. 

IJove,  Victor  van,  S.  and  P.,  Re- 
naix;  b.  1825.    Brussels. 

Iluchfenburgh ,  Jan  van,  Dutch  P., 
Haarlem;  pupil  of  Thomas  Wyck 
at  Rome  (at  Paris,  A.  Fr.  van  der 
Meulen);  1646-1733.  Haarlem,  Am- 
sterdam. 

Iluffel.,  Pierre  van.  P.,  Grammont; 
pupil  of  Herrevns  (MaHnes);  1769- 
1844.     Ghent. 

Iluvsmans,  Jan  Baptisie ,  P.,  Ant- 
werp; 1654-1711  (V). 

Iluj/sum,  Jan  van,  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam; pupil  of  his  father  Justus; 
1682-1749.    Amsterdam.  —  Ixii. 

Israels,  Jozef,  Dutch  P. ;  Groningen  ; 
pupil  of  J.  A.  Blruseman;  b.  1824. 

Jacohsz,  Dircl\  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam (V);  d.  1567. 

Janssens,  Abraham,  Flem.  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  pupil  of  Jan  Snellinck ;  1567- 
1632.     Antwerp.  —  xlix. 

Janssens  (Janson  or  Jonson),  Cornelis 
(J.  van  Ceulen),  Dutch  P.;  1590  (V) 
to  1662/64.    London,  Amsterdam. 

Janssens,  Francois  Joseph,  S.,  Brus- 
sels; 1744-1816.     Brussels. 

Janssens,  Victor  Honor  i,  P.,  Brussels; 
1664-1739.    Brussels. 

Jaquet,  Jean  Joseph,  living  S.,  Ant- 
werp; Brussels. 

Jardin,  Edouard  du,  or  Dujardin, 
P.,  Antwerp  ;  pupil  of  G.Wappers; 
b.  1817.     Antwerp. 

Jardin,  Karel  du,  or  Dujardin,  Dutch 
P.,  Amsterdam;  pupil  of  Claes 
Berchem ;  c.  1622-78.  The  Hague, 
Amsterdam,  Italy.  —  Ixi. 

Jehotte,  Louis,  S.,  Liege;  pupil  of 
Kessels  and  Thorvaldsen  at  Rome : 
b.  1803. 

Jongelincx,  Jacob,  S.,  Antwerp;  1531- 
1606.     Antwerp. 

Jongh,  Ludol/de^V.,  Overschin;  1616- 
97.  Rotterdam. 

Jonghe,  Jan  Baptist  de.  P.,  Courtrai; 
pupil,  of  the  sculptor  Reable  and  | 
Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland 


the  painter  Ommeganck;  1785-1844. 
Courtrai,  Antwerp. 

Jordaens,  Jacob,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Adam  van  Noort  (Ant- 
werp); 1593-1678.  Antwerp.  — xlix. 

Justus  van  Ghent,  see  Ghent. 

Kaiser,  Joh.    Willem,  engraver,   Am- 
sterdam; pupil  ofTaurel;  b.  1813. 
Amsterdam. 
Kalff,  Willem.  P.,  Amsterdam;  pupil 

of  Hendr.  Pot;  1621(22)-93. 
Kampen,  Jacob  van,  A.  &  P.,  Amers- 

foort;  1598-1657. 
Kamper,  Gotthart,'P.,Leji!ien;  b.  1614 

at  Diisseldorf,  d.  1679. 
Kate,  Hennan  Frederik  Karel  ten,  P., 
the  Hague;    pupil    of  Kruseman; 
b.  1822. 
Keldermans  or  Keldermann,  the  name 
of  a  family  of  architects  of  3Ialine.s, 
the     most    important    member    of 
which  was  RomboutK.;  16th  century. 
Kerckhove  (Kerchove),  Joseph  van  den, 
P.,   Bruges;    pupil   of  Jan  Erasm. 
Quellinus;  1670-1724.    Bruges. 
Kerricx,    Guillaume,    S.,   Termonde; 
pupil  of  Artus  Quellinus  the  Youn- 
ger; 1652-1719.     Antwerp. 
Kessel,  Johan  van,  Dutch  P..  Amster- 
dam ;  pupil  of  Ruysdael ;  1641(42)-80. 
Ketel,  Cornelis,  P.,  "S.,  and  A.,  (Jouda  ; 
pupil  ofBlocklandt  at  Delft;  1548- 
1616.    Gouda,  London,  Amsterdam. 
Keulen,  van,  see  Janssens,  Cornelis. 
KeuUjes,    Gerrit   Laurens,   Dutch  P., 

Utrecht;  b.  1786. 
Key,  Adrien  Thomas,  P.,  Antwerp  (?); 
pupil  of  his  uncle  Willem  K.;    c. 
1544-90. 
Keij.   Lieven   de.  A.,  Ghent,   c.  1560- 

1627;  London.  Haarlem,  Leyden. 

Keyser,   Hendrik   de.  A.,   S.,'  &  P., 

Utrecht;  pupil  of  Abr.  &  Cornelis 

Bloemaert;  1565-1621.    Amsterdam. 

Keyser,  Nicaise  de.  P.,  Santvliet,  near 

Antwerp;  1813-87.     Antwerp. 
Keyser,    Thomas  de,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam ,   son  of  Hendrik   de   K.  ; 
1596-1667.     Amsterdam. 
Klinkenberg,  Joh.  Christ.  Karel,  Dutch 
P., the  Hague;  pupil  Ch.  ofPischoff; 
b.  1852. 
Kobell,  Jan,    P.,  Utrecht;    pupil    of 

W.  R.  van  der  Wall ;  1779-1814. 
Koeherger    (Coeberger),    Wenceslaus, 
Flem.  P.  &  A.,  Antwerp ;  pupil  of 
Marten  deVos;  c.  1561-1635.    Ant- 
werp, Paris,  Italy,  Brussels. 
Koekkoek  ,  Barend  Cornelis,  P.,  Mid- 
delburg;  pupil  of  his  father  Joh. 
Herm.  K.,    Schelfhout,    &  Van  Os 
(Amsterdam);  1803-62. 
,     10th  Edit.  25 


386 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


Koel-Jicel-,  ITermcai ,  P.,  Middelbiirg; 
brother  of  the  last  and  pupil  of 
his  father  J.  Herm.  K. ;  b.  1815. 

Koninck  (Koning),  Philips  de,  P.,  Am- 
sterdam ;  pupil  of  Rembrandt  ^  1619- 
88.  —  Ivii. 

Koninck,  Salomon,  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam ;  56.  Amsterdam.  —  liv.  Ivi. 

Koning,  Jacob,  Dutch  P. ;  about  1615- 
1708. 

Eortr,  A.  H.  Bakker,  Dutch  P.,  The 
Hague;  1824-82.    Leyden. 

Kornelissen,  Jacob.  Dutch  P.,  Oost- 
zanen ;  flourished  ca.  1506-30.  Am- 
sterdam. —  xlii. 

Kruseman,  Cornelis,  P.,  Amsterdam; 
pupil  of  C.  H.  Hodges,  Eavelli. 
&  J.  A.  Daiwalle;  1797-1857.  Am- 
sterdam. 

Kruseman,  Jan  Adam,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem: pupil  of  Corn.  Kruseman  and 
J.  L.  David;  1804-62. 

Kuyl,  Gysbertvan  der,  DutchP.,  Gaeda; 
pupil  of  Crabeth  the  Younger;  d, 
1673.    Gaeda. 

Iiairesse,  Gerard  de,  Dutch  P., Liege; 
pupil  of  his  father  lleinier  and  of 
Bertholet  Flemalle  of  Liege;  1641- 
1711.    Liege,  Amsterdam. 

Lamorinihre,  Jean  Pierre  Frangois, 
living  P.  (landscapes),  Brussels. 

Lastman,  Pieier,  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam; pupil  of  Gerrit  Pietersz  at 
Amsterdam  (Italv,  Elshaimer);  c. 
15S3-1633.    Amsterdam.  —  li. 

Lastman,  Claes,  Dutch  P.  and  etcher ; 
brother  of  the  proceeding;  d.  1625 
at  Amsterdam. 

Leemans,  Anthoni e,  Dutch  T?..  Amster- 
dam; b.  1630(31).  d.  after  1653. 

Leickert,  Charles  Henri  Joseph,  Dutch 
P.,  Brussels;  b.  1818. 

Lelie,  Adriaan  de,  DutchP.,  Tilburg; 
pupil  of  Quertemont;  1755-1820. 

Xera«,  Andreas  Cornelis,  V.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Charles  Ykens  &  Balthas. 
Beschey  of  Antwerp;  1739-1822. 
Antwerp,  Brussels. 

Lerius,  Joseph  Henri  Frangois  van, 
P.,  Boom,  near  Antwerp;  1823-76. 

Leyden,  Lucas  Jacobsz,  surnamed 
Lucas  van  L.,  P..  Leyden;  pupil  of 
his  father  Huig  Jacobs  and  of  Cor- 
nells Engelbrechtsen ;  1494-1533. 
Leyden.  —  xliii. 

Leys,  Hendrik,  P.,  Antwerp;  pupil 
of  Braekeleer ;  1815-69. 

Liemaeckere,  Nicolaas  de,  sum.  Eoose, 
P.,  Ghent;  pupil  of  Marcus  Gee- 
rards  &  O.  van  Veen;  1575-1646. 
Ghent. 

Lies,  Joseph,   P.,   Antwerp ;   1821-65. 


Lingelbach,  Jan,  P.,  Frankfort;  1623- 
1174.  Frankfort,  Rome,  Amsterdam. 

Lingeman,  Lambertus,  P.,  Amsterdam, 
pupil  of  P.  F.  Greive;  b.  1829. 

Lint,  Pierre  (Petrus)  van.  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  pupil  of  Rol.  Jacobs  ;  1609- 
90.     Antwerp,  also  Rome. 

Livens  (Lievens  or  Livensz) ,  Jan, 
Dutch  P.,  Leyden;  1607-74.  Leyden, 
En^iland,  Antwerp,  Hague.  —  Ivii. 

Lokhorst,  Dirk  van, Dutch!'.,  Utrecht; 
pupil  of  Verhoesen  and  Bilders ;  b. 
1818. 

Lombard,  Lambert  (erToueously  called 
Lambert  Suavius  or  Susterman),  P. 
and  A.,  Liege;  (Jan  Gossart  at  Mid- 
delburg;  Raphael  in  Italy);  1505- 
66.   Liege. 

THabuse,  see  Jan  Gossart. 

Jifadou,  Jean  Baptiste,  P.,  Brussels  ; 
pupil  of  Francois;  1796-1877. 

Maes,  Nicolaas,  Dutch  P.,  Dord- 
recht; influenced  by  Rembrandt 
and  the  Flemish  masters  (Ant- 
werp); 1632-93.  Delft,  Amsterdam, 
Antwerp. 

Maes,  Jan  Baptist  Lodewpk,!?.,  Ghent; 
pupil  of  his  father  Canini-Maes; 
1794-1856. 

Mander,  Karel  van,  the  Elder,  P.  and 
writer  on  art,  Meulenbecke  in 
Flanders ;  1548-1606.  Rome,  Bruges, 
Haarlem,  Amsterdam.  —  li. 

Murkelboch,  Alexander,  living  P., 
Brussels. 

Massys,  Quinten,  also  called  Matsys 
and  Metsys,  P.,  Louvain ;  1466-1531. 
Louvain,  Antwerp. 

Mathieu,  Lambert  Joseph,  P.,  Bure, 
in  the  province  of  Xamur;  pupil 
of  M.  van  Bree  (Antwerp) ;  1804- 
61.     Louvain. 

Mauve,  Anton,  P.  Zaandam ;  pupil  of 
P.  F.  von  08 ;  b.  1838. 

Meer ,  Jan  van  der  M.  (Vermeer) 
Dutch  P. ;  1632-75.  Delft.  —  Ivii. 

Meer,  Jan  van  der  M.  ( Vermeer), 
Dutch  P.,  Haarlem;  1628-91.  Haar- 
lem. —  Ixii. 

Meert,  Peter,  Flem.  P.,  Brussels; 
1619-69.    Brussels. 

Meire,  Gerard  van  der.  P.,  flourish- 
ed at  Ghent,  between  1452  and 
1474  (Jan  van  Eyck).  —  xli. 

Memling  (Memlinc),  Hans,  Dutch 
P. ;  pupil  of  Roger  van  der  Wev- 
den;  b.  before  1430  (V),  d.  before 
10th  Dec.  1495.  Bruges.  —  xli. 

Mesdag,  Hendrik  Willem,  P.,  Gro- 
ninsen;  pupil  of  Alma  Tadema; 
b.  1831. 

Metsu,    Gabriel,   Dutch  P.,    Leyden; 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


38' 


pupil  of  Gerard  Dou;  1G30-67.  Am- 
sterdam. —  Ix. 

Metsys^  Cornelis,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp  ; 
pupil  of  his  father  Qu.  Massys ; 
1511-80  (?). 

Alei/e);  Joh.  Eendr.  Louis^  P.,  Am- 
sterdam; pupil  of  J.  W.  Piene- 
man;  1819-66. 

Mierevelt.  Michiel  Jansz^  Dutch  P., 
Delft;  1567-1641.   Delft,  the  Hague. 

—  liii. 

Mierevelt,  Pieter,  P..  Delft ;  son  and 
pupil  of  the  last;  1595-1632.  —  liii. 

Miei'is,  Frans  van,  the  JSlder,  Dutch 
P.,  Leyden ;  pupil  of  the  glass- 
painter  Abraham  Torenvliet  and 
of  Gerard   Dou ;  1635-81.     Leyden 

—  Ivii. 

il/»en'5,  Frans  van,  the  Younger. 
Dutch  P.,  Levden ;  son  and  pupil  of 
the  following;  1689-1763.    Leyden. 

Miei'is,  Willem  van,  P.,  Leyden;  son 
and  pupil  of  Frans  van  Mieris  the 
Elder;  1662-1747.     Leyden. 

Mignon  (Minjon),  Abraham,  P., 
Frankfort  on  the  Main;  pupil  of 
.Tan  David  de  Heem  at  Utrecht; 
1640-79.    Wetzlar,  Frankfort. 

Moer,  Jean  Baptiste  van,  living  P., 
Brussels. 

Moerenhoiit,  Josephus  Jodocus,  Flem. 
P.,  Ecckeren;  pupil  of  Verpoorten 
and  Horace  Vernet;  1801-74. 

Moeijaert,  Nicolaes  (Claes)  Cornelisz, 
Dutch  P.;  about  1600.-69.  Italy, 
Amsterdam. 

Molenaer  (Molenaar),  Jan  Miense, 
Dutch  P.,  Haarlem;  1610 (?)- 1668. 
Haarlem. 

Molenaer,  Nicolans  or  Klaes,P.,  Haar- 
lem; d.  1676.  Haarlem. 

Moor,  Karel  de,  the  Elder,  P.,  Ley- 
den; pupil  of  G.  Dou  and  Abr. 
van  den  Tempel  (Frans  v.  Mieris 
&  Gerh.  SchalckenJ;  1656-1738. 

More  (Moor  or  Moro),  Antonis,  P., 
Utrecht;  pupil  of  J.  van  Schooreel 
at  Utrecht  (also  of  Italian  masters); 
b.  1512,  d.  between  1576  and  1578. 
Utrecht,  Antwerp,  and  the  courts 
of  3Iadrid,  Lisbon,  London,  and 
Brussels.  —  xliv. 

Moreelse,  Paulus,  Dutch  P.,  Utrecht; 
pupil  of  Michiel  Mierevelt  (Delft); 
1571-1638.    Utrecht.  —  liii. 

Moritz,  Louis,  Dutch  P.,  the  Hague; 
1773-1850. 

Mostert  (Mostaert),  Jan,  Dutch  P., 
Haarlem ;  follower  of  Gerard  Da- 
vid ;  b.  1474,  d.  after  1549.  Haarlem, 

Moucheron,  Frederik  de,  Dutch  P., 
Emden ;  pupil  of  Jan  Asselvn ; 
1636(37)-86.  Amsterdam. 


Moucheron,  Isaac  de,  Dutch  P.;  son 
and  pupil  of  the  preceding;  1670- 
1744  (1694-97  in  Italy).  Amster- 
dam. 

Musscher,  Michiel  van.  P.,  Rotterdam  ; 
pupil  of  Abr.  van  den  Tempel, 
Metsu,&Adr.  van  Ostade ;  1645-1705. 

Mytens,  Arnold,  P.,  Brussels ;  pupil 
of  Anth.  Santvoort  (Rome)  and  of 
Corn.  Pyp  (Xaples) ;  1541-1602. 

3Ii/tens,  Daniel  Martensz,  the  Elder, 
P.,  the  Hague;  b.  1590,  d.  after 
1658.     The  Hague,  England. 

Mytens^  Jan  or  Aari  Izack ,  P., 
Brussels;  pupil  of  A.  v.  Opstal  and 
N.  V.  d.  Horst;  1612-71/72. 

Tifakken,  Willem  Karel,  Dutch  P.,  the 
Hague;  b.  1835. 

Navez,  Frangois  Joseph,  P.,  Charle- 
roi,  pupil  of  Isidor  &  .Tos.  Fran- 
cois (Brussels),  &  of  David  (Paris) ; 
1787-1839.    Brussels. 

Neeffs,  Pieter,  the  Elder,  P.,  Antwerp, 
pupil  of  Hendrik  van  Steenwyk  ; 
1577  (?) -about  1657. 

Neeffs,  Pieter,  the  Younger,  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  son  of  the  last;  b.  1601,  d. 
after  1675. 

Neer,  Aart  van  der,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam (?);  1608-1677.  Amsterdam. 
—  Ixii. 

Neer,  Eglon  van  der,  Dutch  P., 
Amsterdam  ;  son  and  pupil  of  the 
last,  also  pupil  of  Jacob  van  Loo ; 
1643-1703.  Rotterdam,  Amsterdam, 
Brussels,  Diisseldorf. 

Netscher,  Caspar,  Dutch  P.,  Heidel- 
berg; pupil  of  Koster  at  Arnhem 
and  of  Terburg  at  Deventer;  1639- 
84.     The  Hague.  —  Ix. 

Netscher,  Constantyn,  Dutch  P.,  the 
Hague ;  pupil  of  his  father  Caspar; 
1668-1722.     The  Hague. 

Nieulant,  Willem  van.  P.,  Antwerp 
15ai-1635. 

Noel,  Paul  Joseph,  Flem.  P.,  Waul- 
sort;  pupil  of  Herreyns  ;  1789-1822. 

Nooms,  see  Zeeman. 

Noort,  Adam  van,  P.,  Antwerp; 
1557-1641.  —  xlvi. 

Noort,  Lambert  van.  P.,  Amersfoort; 
1520-71.    Antwerp. 

Ochtervelt  (Uchtervelt),  Jacob  or  Jan, 
Dutch  P.  of  the  17th  cent.,  pupil 
of  Berchem,  Metsu,  and  Terburg ; 
d.  before  1710.  Rotterdam,  Am- 
sterdam. 

Odevaere,  Joseph  Dionysius,  Flem.  P., 
Bruges;  pupil  of  David  at  Paris; 
1778-1830. 

Ommeganck,  Balthazar  Paul,  P.  &  S., 

05* 


38S 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


Antwerp;  pupil  of  Antonissen; 
1755-1826. 

Oost^  Jacob  van^  the  Elder,  Flem.  P., 
Bruges  (Ann.  Carracci);  1600-74. 
Bruges. 

Oost,  Jacob  van,  the  Younger,  P., 
Bruges;  son  and  pupil  of  the  last; 
1637-1713.     Lille. 

Orley,  Barend  (Bernaerd)  van.  P., 
Brussels ;  b.  betw.  1488  and  1490, 
d.  15^.    Brussels.  —  xliv. 

Os,  Georgius  Jacob  Joh.  van.  P.,  tbe 
Hague ;  son  and  pupil  of  Jan  van 
O.;  1782-1861.     Amsterdam,  Paris. 

Os,  Maria  Margarita  van.  Dutch  P., 
the  Hague;  pupil  of  her  father 
Jan  van  Os ;  1780-1862. 

Ostade,  Adriaen  van,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem ;  pupil  ofFransHals;  1610-85. 
Haarlem.  —  lix. 

Ostade,  Isak  van,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem; pupil  of  his  brother  Adriaen; 
1621-1649.    Haarlem.  —  lix. 

"Saelinck,  Joseph,  P.,  Oostacker;  pu- 
pil of  David  at  Paris ;  1781-1839. 
Ghent,  Rome,  Brussels. 

Palamedesz ,  Antonis  P.,  sum.  Ste- 
vaerts,  Dutch  P.,  Delft  fMierevelt 
&  Frans  Hals);    c.  1601-73.     Delft. 

Pape,  Abraham  de,  Dutch  P.;  d.  1666. 

—  Ivii. 

Pasture,  Rogelet  de  la,  see  Weyden. 

Patinir,  Joachim  P.  or  Patenter,   P., 

Dinant;  d.  about  1524.     Antwerp. 

—  xliv. 

Pauwels,    Will.  Ferd.,  P.,  Eeckeren ; 

pupil  of  Du  Jardin  &  Wappers ;  b. 

18&.     Antwerp,  Weimar,  Dresden, 

Ypres. 
Peede,   Hendrik  van.  A.,  flourished 

at  Oudenarde,  1527-30. 
Peelers,  Jan,  P.,  Antwerp;  1624-77. 
Pepyn,    Martin,  P.,   Antwerp;    1575- 

1642/43.     Antwerp. 
IHeneman,  Jan  WiUem,  P.,  Abcoude  ; 

1779-1853.    Delft,   the  Hague,  Am- 
sterdam. 
Pieneman,  Nicolaas,  P.,  Amersfoort; 

son  and  pupil   of  Jan  Willem  P. ; 

b.  1809. 
Pietersen,  Aert,  Dutch  P.,  Amsterdam ; 

pupil  of  his  father  Pieter  Aerfsen  ; 

1550-1612.    Amsterdam. 
Poelenburgh,  Cornelis  van,  Dutch  P., 

Utrecht;  pupil  of  Abr.  Bloemaert 

and  Elshaimer ;  1586-1667.  Utrecht. 

—  li. 

Poelman,   P.  J.,   Flem.   P.,    Ghent; 

b.  1801. 
Portaels,  Jean  Frangoit,'P.,  Vilvorde; 

pupil  of    Navez  &  P.   Delaroche ; 

b.  I'^IS. 


Post,  Pieter,  A.  &  P.,  Haarlem  ;  1598- 
ca.  1660.     Haarlem. 

Post,  Frans.  P.,  Leyden ;  1621(V)-80. 
Haarlem. 

Potter,  Paulus,  Dutch  P.,  Enkhuizen  ; 
pupil  of  his  father  Pieter  (Amster- 
dam) and  of  Jacob  de  Wet  (Haar- 
lem); 1625-54.  Delft,  the  Hague, 
Amsterdam.  —  Ixi. 

Potter,  Pieter,  Dutch  P.,  Enkhuizen; 
1597-1652.    Leyden.  Amsterdam. 

Pourbus,  Fra7is',  the  Elder,  Flem.  P., 
Bruges;  pupil  of  his  father  Pieter 
P.  and  of  Frans  Floris;  b.  1542, 
d.  after  1591.  Bruges,  Antwerp.  — 
xliv. 

PourbuSy  Frans,  the  Younger,  Ant- 
werp ;  son  and  pupil  of  the  pre- 
ceding ;  1569-1622.    Antwerp,  Paris. 

Pourbus,  Pieter,  P.,  Gouda;  pupil  of 
Lancelot  Blondeel(V);  1510(13?)- 
1584.     Bruges. 

Prins,  Johannes  Huibert,  P.,  the 
Hague;  1758-1806. 

Pynacker,  Adam,  Dutch  P.,  Py- 
nacker,  near  Delft;  follower  of  Jan 
Both ;  1627-73.  Delft.  —  Ixii. 

Q.uast,  Pieter  Jansz,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam, imitator  of  Brouwer;1606- 
47.    Amsterdam,  the  Hague. 

Quellinus  or  Quellin ,  Artus  (not 
Arthur),  the  Elder,  S.,  Antwerp; 
son  of  Erasmus  Q.  the  Elder,  and 
pupil  of  his  father  and  of  B.  Du- 
quesnoy  (Rome);  1609-68.  Ant- 
werp, Amsterdam,  Germany. 

Quellinus,  Artu.f,  the  Younger,  S., 
St.  Trond;  son  and  pupil  of  the 
foregoing;  1625-70.     Antwerp. 

Quellinus,  Erasmus,  the  Younger, 
P.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of  his  father, 
the  sculptor  E.  Q.  the  Elder,  and 
of  Jan  Verhaegen,  Antwerp  (Hu- 
bens);  1607-78.    Antwerp.  —  xlix. 

Quellinus,  Jan  Erasmus,  P.,  Ant- 
werp; son  and  pupil  of  the  last 
(Veronese);  1634-1715.     Antwerp. 

Quinckhard,  Jan  Maurits,  Dutch  P., 
Rees ;  pupil  of  his  father,  of  Am, 
Bonnen,Christoirel  Lnbinietzki,  and 
Nic.  Verkolje;  1688-1772.  Amster- 
dam,  Utrecht. 

Ravensicaag,  Jan  van,  Dutch  P.,  Hil- 
versum;  1789-181:9. 

Ravesteyn  (Ravestyn) ,  Jan  van , 
Dutch  P.,  the  Hague;  1572 (V)- 
1657.    The  Hague.  —  liii. 

Rembrandt  Harmensz  van  Ryn,  Dutch 
P.,  Leyden;  pupil  of  Jac.  van 
Swanenburgh  (T.eyden)  and  of  Pie- 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


389 


ter  Lastman  (Amsterdam) ;  1606-69. 
Amsterdam.  —  liv. 

Eiefschoof,  Jan  Claesz ,  Dutch  P., 
Hoorn  ;  pupil  of  Abr.  Liedts  and 
L.  Bakhuvseni  1G52-1T19. 

nobbe,  Henri,  P.,  Courtrai  ;  b.  1S07. 
Brussels. 

Jiobbe,  Louis  Marie  Domin.,  P.,  Conr- 
trai  ;  b.  1^(36.  Courtrai,  Brussels. 

llochus^en,  Charles.  P.,  Rotterdam; 
pupil  of  W.  J.  J.  Nuyen ;  b.  1814. 
llotterdam. 

r^oelandt,  Ludov.,  A.,  ^'ieuwpoort; 
pupil  of  Percier  and  Fontaine 
(Paris);  1786-1864.    Lie^re,  Ghent. 

Koelofs,  Willem,  P.,  Amsterdam; 
pupil  of  A.  H.  Winter  (Utrechtj 
&  of  H.  van  de  Sande-Bakhuvzen 
(the  Haiue) ;  b.  1822.     Brussels. 

Romans.  Jacob,  A.  &  P. ;  d.  1690.  The 
Hague,  Bois-le-Duc. 

Jiombouis,  Theodor  van,  P.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Abr.  Janssens  the  Elder ; 
1597-1637.  Kome,  Florence,  Ant- 
werp. —  xlix. 

Romeyn,  TTiV/em,  Dutch  P.,  Haarlem; 
pupil  of  Claes  Berchem;  d.  after 
1693.  Haarlem. 

Ronner-Knip  ,  ffenrieite,  P.,  Amster- 
dam ;  b.  1821. 

Roose,  Nicolaas,  see  Liemaeckere. 

Roosenboom,  Margareiha,  Dutch  P.  of 
still-life;  b.  1843. 

Roguelte,  Johan  de  la,  Dutch  P.,  the 
Hague:  d.  after  1694. 

Rostum,  Johan  van,  Dutch  portrait- 
painter  of  the  17th  century. 

Rolh,  Georg  Andries,  P.,  Amsterdam; 
b.  1809. 

Royer ,  Louis.,  S. ,  Malines;  pupil  of 
J.  F.  van  Geel  of  Amsterdam  ;  1793- 
1868.     The  Hague,  Amsterdam. 

Rubens,  Petrus  Pavlus,  Flem.  P.,  b. 
at  Siegen  in  Isassau;  pupil  of 
Tobias  Verhaegt,  Adam  van  Noort, 
and  Otlio  van  Veen  (Antwerp); 
1577-1640.    Italy,  Antwerp.  —  xlvi. 

Ruysch,  Rachel,  Dutch  P.,  Amster- 
dam; pupil  of  Willem  van  Aelst; 
1664-1750;  Amsterdam,  The  Hague. 
—  Ixii. 

Ruysdael,  Isaac  van,  Dutch  P.,  bro- 
ther of  Sal.  van  I!.;  d.  1677. 

Ruysdael,  Jacob  van,  Dutch  P. ;  son 
and  pupil  of  Isaac  van  R. ;  1628(29)- 
82.    Haarlem,  Amsterdam.  —  Ixi. 

Ruysdael,  Salomon  van,  Dutch  P., 
Haarlem;  d.  1670.     Haarlem. 

Ryrknert,  David,  the  Younger;  Flem. 
P.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of  his  father; 
1612-62.    Antwerp. 

Sadde,   Philip,  P.,  the  Hague;  pupil 


of  J.  E.  J.  van  den  Berg;  b.  1837. 
The  Hague. 

Saenredam,  Pieter,  Dutch  P.,  Assen- 
delft;  pupil  of  Fran s  de  Grebber 
(Haarlem)  ;  1597-1665.     Haarlem. 

Saftleven,  Herman,  Dutch  P.,  Rotter- 
dam :  pupil  of  Jan  van  Goyen  ;  1610- 
85.  Rotterdam,  Utrecht." 

Sallaeri,  Antonius,  Flem.  P.,  Brus- 
sels ;  pupil  of  Michel  de  Bordeaux  ; 
b.  ca.  1590,  d.  after  1648.   Brussels. 

Sanders,  Hercules.  Dutch  P..  Amster- 
dam ;  1606-63  CO. 

Sandrart,  Joachim  von,  P.,  Frank- 
fort on  the  Main  ;  pupil  of  Gerh. 
Honthorst  at  Ftrecht  (Venice,  stu- 
died Titian  and  Veronese);  1606-88, 
England,  Venice,  Rome,  Amster- 
dam, Augsburg,  Nuremberg. 

Sanivoorl,  Dirck  Dircksz,  P. ;  pupil 
of  Rembrandt  (?);  1610-1680.  Am- 
sterdam. 

Savery,  Roelandl,  Dutch  P.,  Courtrai ; 
pupil  of  his  elder  brother  Jacob, 
at  Amsterdam  (?);  1576-1639.  Vt- 
recht.  —  xliv. 

Schalcken,  God/ried,  Dutch  P.,  Dord- 
recht; pupil  of  Samuel  van  Hoog- 
stracten  &  Gerard  Dow ;  1643-1706. 
Dordrecht,  The  Hague.  —  Ivii. 

Schampheleer,  Edmond  de,  living  P. 
(landscapes),  Brussels. 

Scheemaeckers,  Pieter,  S.,  Antwerp  ; 
pupil  of  P.  Verbruggen  ;  1640-1714. 
Antwerp. 

Schemer,  Ary,  P.,  Dordrecht;  pupil 
of  Gue'rin  (Paris) ;  1795-1858.  Paris. 

Schelfhout,  Andreas,  P.,  The  Hague; 
1787-1870.     The  Hague. 

Schendel,  Petrus  van.  P.,  Terheyden, 
near  Breda;  pupil  of  Van  Br^e 
(Antwerp);  1806-70.  Amsterdam, 
Rotterdam,   The  Hague,    Brussels. 

Scholten  ,  Hendrik  Jacobus,  P.,  Am- 
sterdam; pupil  of  Grcive;  b.  1824. 

Schooreel  (Scorel  or  JSchoorl),  Jon 
van,  P.  &  A..  Schoorl,  near  Alk- 
maar  ;  1495-1562.  Rome,  Utrecht, 
Haarlem.  —  xliv. 

Schoofen,  Joris  van,  Dutch  P.,  pupil 
of  C.  van  der  Maes  (Leyden);  b. 
1587-1651. 

Schotel,  Joh.  Christianus,  P.,  Dord- 
recht; pupil  of  A.  Meulemans  &  M. 
Schouman;  1787-18^8.     Dordrecht. 

Schotel,  Petrus  Joh.,  P.,  Dordrecht; 
son  and  pupil  of  the  last;  1808-65. 

Schouman,  Martinus,  P.,  Dordrecht; 
pupil  of  M.  Versteeg  and  of  his 
uncle  Aart  S. ;  1770-1848. 

Schut,  Cornells, v.,  Antwerp;  pupil  of 
Rubens;  1.597-1655. Antwerp.  —  xlix. 

Schicartze,    Therese,  P.,  Amsterdam; 


390 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


pupil  of  her  father  J.  G.  Schwartze 

and  Gabriel  Max;  b.  1851. 
tSeghers,  Daniel^  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp; 

pupil    of    Velvet  Brueghel;    159U- 

1661.     Antwerp. 
Segfiet's,  Gerard,  P.,  Antwerp  ;  1591- 

1651.     Antwerp,  Madrid.  —  xlix. 
Siinonis,  Eugene,  S.,  Liege;  pupil  of 

Kessels  &  Finelli  (Rome) ;  b.  1810. 

Tjiege,  Brussels. 
Slingelandt,    Fieier    van,   Dutch   P., 

I>evden ;     pupil    of    Gerard    Dou ; 

1040-91;  Leyden.  —  Ivii. 
^lingenctjer,  Ernest,   P.,    Loochriety, 

near  Ghent;  pupil  of  G.  Wappers; 

b.  1820(23). 
,'<lu!/s,  Belgian  A. ;  1782-1861. 
Snayers,  Peter,  Flem.  P.,   Antwerp  ; 

pupil    of    Seb.    Vrancx ;    b.    1593, 

d.  after  1669.     Antwerp,  Brussels. 
^nyders,  Frans,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp ; 

1579-1657.     Aatwerp.  —  xlix. 
Supers,  Pieter ,   Flem.  P.,  Antwerp; 

1681-1752.    Antwerp. 
Sorgh,  Hendrik  Maertensz,  Dutch  P., 

Rotterdam  (?) ;    pupil     of    Willem 

Buitenweg;  1611-70(?).  Rotterdam. 
Soutman,  Pieter,  P.,  Haarlem;  pupil 

of  Rubens;  1580-1657. 
Spinny,   W.,  P.,  Brussels;  d.  1785  at 

the  Hague. 
Springer,    Cornelis,  P.,  Amsterdam; 

pupil  of  K.  Karsen  ;  b.  1817. 
Stallaert,  Joseph,  living  P.,  Tournai. 

Brussels. 
Staveren,  Johan  Adriaensz  van,  Dutch 

P.,  Leyden;  d.  1669. 
Steen,  Jan,   Dutch  P.,  Leyden  ;    pu- 
pil    of    Nic.     Knupfer    (Utrecht) ; 

1626(?)-1679.     Levden,     Haarlem, 

Delft.  —  Ix. 
Stevens,  Alfred,   P.,  Brussels;  pupil 

of  Navez   and   Roqueplan  (Paris)  ; 

b.  182,^. 
Stevens,  Joseph,  living  P.,  Brussels; 

b.  1815(19).    Paris. 
Stobhaerts  ,  Jean-Baptiste ,  living  P., 

Antwerp. 
Stoop,  Dirck,    Dutch  P.;    1610(?)-86. 

Utrecht,  Lisbon. 
Sfrackie,  F.,  living  S.,   Amsterdam. 
Stroobant.  Franz.  P.,   Brussels;    b. 

1819. 
Stry,  Jacob  van.   P.,  Utrecht;    pupil 

of  A.  C.  Lens ;  1756-1815. 
Stuerbout,  see  Bouts. 
Susterman,  Lambei't,  see  Lombard. 
Suys,  Lion,   the  Younger^   living  P., 

Brussels. 
Swanenhurgh,   Izack  Claesz  van,  P. ; 

d.  1614. 
Swnnenhnrgh.  Jacob  Izneksz  van.  P., 

son  of  the  last ;  1580-1658  —  liii. 


Swanevelt,  Herman  van,  P.,  Woer- 
den(Rome,  Claude  Lorrain)  ;  1620  (V) 
-1656.  —  Ixii. 

Swerts,  Jan,  P.,  Antwerp ;  pupil  of 
Nic.  de  Keyser ;  1820-79. 

Hempel,  Abraham  van  den,  Dutch  P., 
Leeuwarden  ;  1622-72.  Leyden,  Am- 
sterdam. 

Teniers,  David,  the  Elder,  Flem.  P., 
Antwerp;  pupil  of  his  elder  bro- 
ther Julien  (Rome,  Klshaimer); 
1582-1649.     Antwerp. 

Teniers,  David,  the  Younger,  Flem. 
P.,  Antwerp;  son  and  pupil  of  the 
last;  lGlO-90.    Antwerp,  Brussels. 

Terburg  (Terborch,  Ter  Borch),  Ge- 
rard, Dutch  P.,  Zwolle;  pupil  of 
his  father  (Haarlem,  Frans  Hals); 
1617-81.    Deventer.  —  Ix. 

Teunissen  (Antoniszon).  Cornelis,'Duidi 
P.,  1533-57.  Amsterdam.  —  liii. 

Thulden  (Tulden),  Theodore  van,  P., 
Bnis-le-Duc;  pupil  of  Abr.  Blyen- 
berch  &  Rubens;  1607  (?)-1676(V). 
Paris,  Antwerp,  Bois-le-Duc. 

Thys  (Thyssens),  Peter,  the  Elder,  P., 
Antwerp;  pupil  of  A.  Deurwaer- 
der  ;  1616-77  (79).     Antwerp. 

Tilburg  (Tilborgh),  Egidius  (Gilles) 
van.  P.,  Brussels;  pupil  of  his  fa- 
ther;  1625-78  (?).    Brussels. 

Tol,  Dominicus  van,  Dutch  P. ;  pupil 
of  Ger.  Dou;  b.  between  1631  and 
1642,  d.  1676.    Leyden. 

Trigt,  Hendrik  Albert  van,  P.,  Dord- 
recht; b.  1829. 

Troost,  Cornelis,  P.,  Amsterdam;  pu- 
pil of  Arnold  Boonen;  1697-1750. 
Amsterdam. 

Tschaggeny,  Karl,  P.,  Brussels;  b. 
1815. 

Tuerlinckx,  Joseph,  S.,  Malines;  pupil 
of  Van  Bree  &  W.  Geefs  (Brus- 
sels) ;  b.  1820. 

Tijbaut,  W.,  P.  &  P.  on  glass, Haarlem  ; 
latter  half  of  the  I6th  cent. 

JJchtervelt,  see  Ochterveli. 

Uden,  Lucas  van.  P.,  Antwerp;  1595- 
1672  (3).     Antwerp.  —  xlix. 

Ulft,  Jacob  van  der,  Dutch  P.,  Gor- 
cum;  1627-88  (?).     Gorcum. 

Utrecht,  Adrian  van,  Flem.  P.,  Ant- 
werp; pupil  of  Harmen  de  Ryt; 
1599-1652.    Antwerp. 

Yaenius,  see  Veen, 

Valckert,  Werner  van,  Dutch  portrait- 
painter;  pupil  of  H.  Colt'/ius; 
nourished  1612-30  at  Amsterdam 
and  ILiarlcm. 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


391 


Veeken,  Jon  Baptist  von  der ,  Flem. 
P,  on  glass ;  middle  of  16th  cent. 

Veen  (  Ven)^  Jan  A.  van  der,  living  S., 
Bois-le-Duc. 

Veen,  Mat-fen  H.  van,  see  Heemskerck. 

Veen,  Otto  van  F.,  or  Otho  Vaenius 
(Venius),  Flem.  P.,  Leyden  ;  1558- 
1G29.  Liege,  Leyden,  Antwerp, 
Brussels.  —  xlvi.  " 

Velde,  Adrian  van  de,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam ;  pupil  of  his  father  "Wil- 
lem  (Amsterdam);  1635-72.  Am- 
sterdam, Delft.  —  Ixi. 

Velde,  Esaias  van  de,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam; ca.  1590-1630.  Haarlem, 
the  Hague. 

Velde,  Willetn  van  de  F.,  the  Elder, 
P.,  Levden ;  father  of  Adrian  and 
Willem  V.  the  Younger  ;  1611-93. 
Kngland. 

Velde,  Willem  van  de  V.,  the  Younger, 
Dutch  P.,  Amsterdam  ;  brother  of 
Adrian,  pupil  of  his  father  Willem 
&  of  Simon  de  Vlieger;  1633-1707. 
Amsterdam,  Greenwich.  —  Ixii. 

Venne,  Adrian  van  de ,  Dutch  P., 
Delft;  pupil  of  Simon  Valck  the 
goldsmith;  15S9-1662.  Middelburg, 
the  Hague. 

Verboeckhoven ,  Charles  Louis,  P., 
Warneton  ;  pupil  of  his  father  Bar- 
thelemy  V.;  b.  180-2. 

Verboeckhoven ,  Eugene  Joseph,  P., 
Wameton ;  brother  of  the  last,  pu- 
pil of  his  father  (Potter,  Omme- 
•zanck);   1799-1881.     Brussels. 

Verhoom,  Adrian  H.,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam; b.  1628,  d.  after  1670. 

Verbrtiggen,  Henri  Frangois,  S.,  Ant- 
werp ;  son  and  pupil  of  the  fol- 
lowing; 1655-1724.     Antwerp. 

Verbi'uggen,  Pieter,  S.,  Antwerp;  fa- 
ther of  the  foregoing;  d.  1686. 

Verhaagt,  Tob.,  P.,  Antwerp,  1566- 
1631. 

Verhaghen,  P.  J.,F.,  Aerschot.  1728- 
1811.     Louvain. 

Verhas,  Jean,  living  P.,  Antwerp. 

Verhulsf,  Ronibout ,  S.  ,  Malines  or 
Breda  ;  pupil  of  Romljout  Verstap- 
pen  &  Francois  van  Loo  ;  1G24-1698. 
Holland. 

Verkolje,  Jan,  Dutch  P.,  Amsterdam  ; 
pupil  of  Jan  Livens  ;  1650-93.  Delft. 

Verlat,  Charles,  P.,  Antwerp;  pupil 
of  Nic.  de  Keyser ;  b.  1825.  Wei- 
mar. 

Verlinde,  Pierre  Antoine,  P.,  Winox- 
bergen  ;  b.  1801.    Paris,    Antwerp. 

Vermeer,  see  Meer. 

Verschaeren,  Jean  Antoine  ,  P.,  Ant- 
werp; pupil  of  Herreyns;  1803-63. 

Verschaffelty  PierreAntoine,  Chevalier 


de,  S.,  Ghent;  pupil  of  Pierre  de 
Sutter  and  of  Bouchardon  (Paris) ; 
1710-93.     Rome,  Mannheim. 

Verschuier,  Lieve ,  P. ,  Rotterdam  ; 
1630(?)-86. 

Verschuur,  Wouterus  (Walter),  P., 
Amsterdam;  pupil  of  P.  G.  van  Os 
&  C.  Steflfelaar;  1812-74. 

Verspronck,  Cornelis  Engelszoon,  P., 
Haarlem;  pupil  of  Corn.  Gomelisz 
and  Karel  van  Mander;  17th  cent. 
Haarlem. 

Verspronck,  Jan,  Dutch  P. ,  Haar- 
lem ;  son  of  the  last,  pupil  of  Frans 
Hals ;  1597-1662.    Haarlem. 

Versteeg,  Maggiel,  P.,  Dordrecht;  pu- 
pil of  A.  van  Wanuni;  1756-1843. 

Verveer,  Elchanon ,  P.,  the  Hague; 
pupil  of  the  following  and  of  Herm. 
Ten  Kate;  b.  1826. 

Verveer,  Salomon  Leonardus,  P.,  the 
Hague;  pupil  of  B.  J.  van  Hove; 
1813-76.     The  Hague. 

Vervloet,  Francis,  Flem.  P.,  Malines ; 
1795-1872. 

Victor  or  Fictor,  Jacomo,  Dutch  P.; 
prob.  a  relative  of  Jan  Victors; 
flourished  at  Amsterdam  aboutl670. 

Victors  (Victor,  Victoor,Fictoor),  Jan, 
Dutch  P. ,  Amsterdam ;  pupil  of 
Rembrandt ;  b.  1620,  d.  after  1672. 

Vieillevoye,  J.  B.  de.  P.,  Verviers ; 
d.  1855.    Liege. 

Vigne,  Filix  de.  P.,  Ghent;   1806-62. 

Vigne,  Petrus  de,  S.,  Ghent;  brother 
of  the  last;  1812-77. 

Vinck,  Franz,  living  P.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Leys. 

Vinckhoons ,  David,  Dutch  P.,  Ma- 
lines; pupil  of  his  father  Philip 
(Amsterdam);  1578-1629.  Amster- 
dam. 

Vinckenhrinck,  Albert,  S.,  Sparendam  ; 
17th   cent. 

Vingboons  ,  Ph. ,  A. ,  Amsterdam  : 
1608-75. 

Vlieger,  Simon  de,  Dutch  P.,  Rotter- 
dam ;  b.  ca.  1600,  d.  before  1660. 
Delft,  Amsterdam. 

Vliet,  Hendrik  van,  Dutch  P.,  Delft; 
pupil  of  his  father  Willem  and  of 
Michiel  van  Mierevelt  (Delft);  c. 
1611-75.  Delft.  —  Ixii. 

Vois,  Ary  (Adrian)  de,  Dutch  P., 
Leyden ;  pupil  of  Nic.  Knupfer 
(Utrecht)  &  of  Abraham  van  den 
Tempel  (Leyden);  1630(?)-98.  Ley- 
den. 

Vollenhoven,  Herman  van,  Dutch  P., 
Utrecht ;  beginning  of  the  17th  cent. 

Vollevens,  Jan,  the  Elder,  Dutch  P., 
Gecrtruidenberg ;  pupil  of  N.  Maes 
in  Dort ;  1649-1728.  The  Hague. 


392 


LIST  OF  ARTISTS. 


Voort,  Cornelit  van  der,  Dutch  P., 
Antwerp  •,  flourished  at  Amster- 
dam; 1576-1624. 

Vos,  Cornells  de,  Flem.  P.,  Hulst; 
pupil  of  David  Remeeus ;  c.  15S5- 
1651.     Antwerp. 

Vos,  Marten  de,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Frans  Floris;  1531-1603. 
Venice,  Antwerp. 

Vos,  Simon  de ,  Flem.  P.,  Antwerp; 
pupil  of  Corn,  de  Vos;  16(J3-76. 
Antwerp. 

Vrancx^  Sebastian,  P.,  Antwerp  •,  1573- 
1647. 

Vriendf  y  Cornelis  de  ,  A.,  Antwerp; 
brother  of  the  next ;  1518-75.  Ant- 
werp. 

Vriendt  (yri7it),  Frans  de,  sum. 
Frans  Floris,  T.,  Antwerp;  c.  1520- 
70.  Antwerp.  —  xliv. 

Vries,  U.  Vredeman.  A.  &  P.,  Leeu- 
warden  ;  1528-1607.  Germany,  Hol- 
land. 

Vroom,  Hendrik  Cornelisz .  Dutch 
P.,  Haarlem;  1556-1640.   Haarlem. 

Waldorp,  Antoine,  P.,  H  Huis  ten 
Bosch,  near  the  Hague;  pupil  of 
Breckenheimer;  1803-61. 

Wappers,  Oustav,  P.,  Antwerp ;  pupil 
of  J.  J.  van  Eegemorter,  Van 
Brde,  and  Herreyns  ;  1803-74.  Ant- 
werp. 

Waterlo,  Anthonie,  Dutch  P.  and 
etcher,  Lille;  b.  1609(10),  d.  after 
1670.  Lccuwarden,  Amsterdam. 

Waufers,  Einile,  P.,  Brussels;  pupil 
of  Portaels  &  Gerome  (Paris);  b. 
1846.    Brussels. 

Weenix,  Jan,  Dutch  P.,  Amsterdam  ; 
son  and  pupil  of  the  folloAving; 
1640-1719.    Amsterdam,  Utrecht. 

Weenix.  Jan  Baptist,  Dutch  P.,  Am- 
sterdam; pupil  of  .Tan  Micker  and 
Abr.  Bloemaert  (Utrecht)  and  of 
Claas  Moeyaert  (Amsterdam) ;  1621- 
60.    Amsterdam,  Utrecht. 

Werff,  Adrian  van  der,  Dutch  P., 
Kralingen,  near  Kotterdam ;  pupil 
of  Cornel.  Picolet  &  Etjlon  van 
der  Neer;  1659-1722.     Rotterdam. 

Werff,  Pieter  van  der,  Dutch  P., 
brother  and  pupil  of  the  last ;  1665- 
1721.     Kotterdam. 

Weyden,  Roger  (Rogier)  van  der,  also 
called  iJogrer  (Rogelet)de  la  Pasture, 
P.,  Tournai;  1399(1400)-1464.  Tour- 
nai,  Brussels,  Louvain.  —  xli. 

Wiertz ,  Antoine  Joseph,  P.  &  S.,  Di- 
nant;  pupil  of  Herreyns  and  Van 
Br^e;  1806-65.    Brussels. 


Wildens ,  Jan,  P.,  Antwerp;  pup. 
of  Verhulst;  1586-1653.  Antwerp. 

Willaerts,  Adam  (or  Willarfs),  P., 
Antwerp  ;  1577-1664  (V).  Utrecht. 

Willeborts,  Thomas,  sum.  Bosschaert 
(Bossaert)  ,  P.,  Bergen-op-Zoom  ; 
pup.  of  G.Seghers;  1614-54.  Antwerp. 

Willemssens,  Louis,  S.,  Antwerp;  pu- 
pil of  A.  (Juellin  the  p:ider;  1630- 
1702.     Antwerp. 

Winter,  Abraham  Hendri'k,  P.,  Ut- 
recht; 18'J0-61. 

Wit,  Jacob  de.  P.,  Amsterdam;  1695- 
1754.    Amsterdam. 

Witte,  Emanuel  de,  Dutch  P.,  Alk- 
maar;  pupil  of  Evert  van  Aelst; 
1607-92.  Delft,  Amsterdam.  —  Ixii. 

Witte,  Gaspard  de.  P.,  Antwerp; 
1618-80  (81).    Antwerp. 

Wolfvoet ,  Johannes  Victor,  P.,  Ant- 
werp ;  pupil  of  his  father  Victor  W. 
and  of  Rubens;  1612-52.  Antwerp. 

Wolterbeck,  Anna  Eenrietle,  Amster- 
dam;  b.  1834. 

Wouters,  Charles  Augustin,  P.,  Boom, 
near  Antwerp ;  b.  1811.      Malines. 

Wouverman,  Jan,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem; brother  and  pupil  of  Philip 
W. ;  1629-66.     Haarlem. 

Wouverman,  Philip,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem ;  1619-68.     Haarlem.  —  Ixi. 

Wouverman,  IHeter,  Dutch  P.,  Haar- 
lem; brother  of  the  last,  pupil  of 
his  father  Paulus  W.;  1623-82. 
Haarlem. 

Wttewaal  (  Wittewaal) ,  Joachim  An- 
tonisz.  P.,  Utrecht ;  pupil  of  Joos 
de  Bec-r;  1566-1638.    France,  Italy. 

Wulffaert,'  Adrien,  P.,  Tergoes;  pu- 
pil of  Ducq  (Bruges)  and  Gallail ; 
b.  180i.     Antwerp,  Ghent. 

Wi/rk,  r/ios., Dutch  P.,Beverwyck,near 
Haarlem;  1616(?)-1677.    Haarlem. 

Wijnants,  Jan,  Dutch  P.;  b.l600(V), 
flourished  at  Haarlem  and  Amster- 
dam 1641-79.  —  Ixi. 

Ykens,  Jean,  S.  &  P.,  Antwerp;  17th 

cent. 
ykem(Ei/ckens),  Pieter,  P.,  Antwerp; 

son  and  pupil   of  the   last;    1648 

95(96).    Antwerp. 

Zeeman,  Reinier  (Remigius),  proper 
name  supposed  to  be  Nooms,  Dutch 
P.,  Amsterdam ;  b.  1612  (V),  flour- 
ished at  Amsterdam  till  after 
1660. 

Zeghers,  see  Seghers. 

Zorgh,  see  Sorgh. 


INDEX. 


Aa,  the  360.  375. 
Aalst  10. 
Abcoude  354. 
Achel  177.  300. 
Acoz  1S4. 
Acren  69. 
Adegliem  10. 
Adinkerke  3'i. 
Adseux  231. 
Aeltre  10. 
Aerscbot  176.   195. 
Aerseele  31. 
Ste.  Ai^atbe  11. 
Agimont  190. 
Agnetenlterg,  the  348. 
Aigremont  221. 
Aisne  217. 
— ,  the  217. 
Aix-la-Chapelle  176.  225. 

227. 
Akkrum  349. 
Alblasserdam  175. 
Aldekcrk  368. 
Alkmaar  340. 
A  lie  195. 
Alost  10. 
Alphen  258. 
Alt  bach,  the  239. 
Altenbers  225. 
Altlinstrr  242. 
Altscheid  •234. 
Alttrier  239. 
Altwies  289. 
Alzette,  the  235.  237. 
St.  Amand  203. 
St.  Amans-lez-Puers   62 
Amav  222. 
Ambleve  315. 
-,  the  215.  232. 
Ainersfoort  347. 
Ammeldinien  240. 
Ampsin  222. 
Amstel,  the  296. 
Amsterdam  293. 

Academv  of  Science 
303.     ■ 

St.  Anthomeswaag299 

Antiquar.  Society  303. 

Aquarinm  306. 

Arti  et  Amicitise  303 

Artis  306. 

Beguinage  302. 

Blind  Asvlum  3.34. 


.'\m.sterdam : 
Botanic  Garden  307. 
Buitenkant  298. 
Buitensingel  305. 
Canals  297. 
Cemetery  306. 
Charities  334. 
Churches  335. 
Commercial  School 

305. 
Concerts  294.  334. 
Dam  299. 

Diamond  Polishers  807 
Docks  298. 
Dock  Yard  298. 
Dutch  Museum  309. 
EnglishChurch  295.885. 
Engravings  316. 
Entrepot  299. 
Ethnolog.  Museum  3u6 
Exchange  299. 
Felix  Meritis  316. 
Fish  Market  299. 
Grachten  297. 
Harbour  297. 
Historical  Gallery  3o3 
llooge  Sluis  3u6. 
Hosp.  of  St.  .Tames  306 
Industrial  Palace  306. 
Jewish  Quarter  8<'7 
Kalverstraat  302. 
Kweekschool  298. 
Lees  Museum  308. 
Library  Roval  816. 
— ,  Univ.  308. 
Maatschappy    tot    Nut 
vanH  Algemeen  385 
Melkhuis  334. 
Metalen  Kruis  302. 
Monta,lbaansTovv'er298. 
Mulder  Poort  3<i6. 
Museum  30S. 
— ,  Dutch  309. 

—  Fodor  304. 
Nieuwe  Kerk  8U0. 

—  Markt  297. 
Isieuwe  Zyds   Vorbur- 

gival  297. 
Orphanage  302.  334. 
Oude  Kerk  297. 
Palace  300. 
Paleis    voor  Volksvlyt 

306. 


\rasterdam : 
Panoramas  294.  306. 
Park  806. 
Plantage  307. 
Post  Gtlice  295. 
Prins  Hendrik  Kade 

298. 
»iuays  298. 
Rail.  Stations  293. 298. 

307. 
Rembrandtsplein  303. 
Rembrandt\s  Statue303. 

—  House  307. 
Remonstrants,  Church 

of  the  305. 
Rietlande  296. 
Ruyter'sHouse,  De,298. 
llyks  Museum  308. 

Admirals'  Room  316. 

Anatomical  paintings 
825. 

Antiquarian  Society 
811. 

Cabinet  of  coins  816. 

—  of  engravings  816. 
Carlo  vingian     Room 

321. 
Collection  of  casts 
317. 

—  nf  weapons  309. 
Colonial  collection 

309. 
Cn.-^tumes  309.  315. 
l)upper  Room  323. 
Dutch  Museum  309. 
East  Court  308. 
Ecclesiastical  De- 
partment 311. 
Gallery  of  Paintings 

218. 
Hall  of  Honour  815. 
Library  31G. 
Military  and  Naval 

Collection  309. 
Modern  Paintings 

831.  832. 
Museum  van  der 

Hoop  33(). 
Naval  Department 

310. 
Porcelain  315. 
Portrait  Room  325. 
Regent  Room  '6^i. 


394 


INDEX. 


Amsterdam : 
Rykft  Museum : 
Rembrandt  Room 

3'iO. 
Secular  Arcliitecture 

312. 
Van  der  Hoop  Room 

330. 
Van  dc  Poll  Room 

324. 
West  Court  317. 
Schreyerstoren  298. 
Seamen's  Instit.  298. 
Shops  294. 
Singel-Gracbt  297. 
Six  Gallery  303. 
Sladhuis  302. 
Steamboats  295. 
Synagogues  307. 
Theatres  294.  306. 
Thorbecke'sStatue  303. 
Tolhuis  336. 
Tramways  294. 
University  303. 

—  Library  303. 
Vnndelspark  334. 
Vonders  Statue  331. 
Weigh  Hi.use  299. 
Zeemansboop  302. 
Zeemanshuis  298. 
Zoolog.  Garden  306. 

Ancre,  Chat.  214. 
Andelst  373. 
Andenne  223. 
Andrimont  231. 
Angelaberg  235. 
Angleur214.  225. 
Anh^e  184. 

St.  Anna   ter  Muiden  9. 
Anna-Panlowna  341. 
Anor  189. 
Ana  197. 
Anseghem  34. 
Anaemburg  237. 
Anseremme  189. 
Antoing  68. 
Antwerp  136. 

Academic   des    Beaux- 
Arts  148. 

St.  Andrew  155. 

Augustinian  Ch.    154. 

St.  Antoine   149. 

Athen^elRoyal  152. 

Avenue  des  Arts  153. 

—  du  Commerce  152. 

—  de  rindustrie  153. 

—  du  Sud  153. 
Bank   153. 
Boduognatus's  Statue 

169. 
Borgerhout  169.  172. 
Botanic  Garden   153. 
Boucheries    148. 


Antwerp: 
Bourse  149. 
Capuchins,   Church  of 

149. 
Carnot's  Statue  169. 
Cathedral  141. 
Conscience's  Men.  149. 
Coudenberg's  Stat.  163. 
Docks  171. 
St.  Elizabeth  Hospital 

153. 
English  Church  138. 
Entrepots  171. 
Exchange  149. 
Fortifications  140. 
St.  George  154. 
Guild  Houses  147. 
Hospital  169. 
Hotel  de  Ville  146. 
Institut  de  Comra.  152. 
St.  Jacques  151. 
Jesuits"'  Church  149. 
Jordaens's    Statue  168. 
St.  Joseph  169. 
Leopold  I.'s  Statue  153. 
Leys'  House  153. 

—  Statue  16S. 
Library,  Municipal  149. 
Lungue  Rue  Neuve  149. 
Loos,  Mon.  de  168. 
Lutheran  Church    149 
Maisou  Hansdatique 

171. 

—  des  Orpbelines  154. 
Massys'  Well  146 

—  Monum.  168. 
Military  Hospital   149. 
Mus^e  Commerciol  168, 

—  Moderne  166. 

—  Plantin-Moretus  154 
Museum  156. 

—  of  Antiquities    170. 
Notebohm's  Coll.  148, 
Kotre  Dame  141. 
Palace,  Royal  153. 
Palais  de  Justice  153. 

—  des  Beaux-Arts  156. 
Panorama  138.  169 
Park  168. 
Park  of  the  Palais  de 

rindustrie  168. 
St.  Paul  148. 
Pepiniere  169. 
Picture  Gallery  158, 
Place  de  la  Commune 

152. 

—  de  Meir  153. 

—  Verte  141. 

Porfe  dc  I'Escaut  170, 

—  de  Malines  156. 
Post  Oftice  136. 
Promenoirs  170. 
Quays  169. 


Antwerp: 
Railway  Stations    136. 
Rcickox's  House  149. 
Rubens''  House  153. 

—  Statue   141. 
Rue  i^alionale  164. 

—  du  Peuple  156. 
Ryswyck'sMonum.154 . 
Sacre'  Coeur,  Basilique 

du  159. 

Salvius    Brabo    Foun- 
tain 147. 

Schoonbeke's  Monum. 
169. 

Steen,  the  170. 

Teniers's  Statue  153. 

Theatres  13S.  162.  153. 

Tonkin  House  16S. 

Van  Dyck's  Statue  148. 

Van  Liere'a  House  149. 

Vlaamscli  Hoofd  171. 

Wharfs  169. 

Zoolog.   Garden  169. 
Anvaing  55. 
Anvers  138. 
Anvers-Dam  172. 
Apeldoorn  342. 
Ardenne  189. 
Ardennes,  Forest  of  191. 
Ardoye  31. 
Arendskerke  245. 
Argenteau  218. 
Arkel  373. 
Arlon  194. 
Armentieres  30. 
Arnemuiden  245. 
Arnhem  357. 
Arras  181. 
Arville,  Chat.  '224. 
Asch  176. 


Ascq  --. 
Aspelt  239. 
Assen  349. 
Assendelft  337. 
Asselborn  234. 
Assesse  191. 
Astenet  227. 
Ath  69. 
Athus  194. 
Attert,  the  235. 
Attres  69. 
Aubel  226. 

St.  Aubert,  Mont  58.  61. 
Audeghem  62. 
Audenarde  33. 
Aulne,  Abbey  of  182. 
Autel  194.  195. 
Auvelois  184. 
Ave-Cappelle  31. 
Avenhom  343. 
Avenues  223. 
Averbode,  Abbey  of  176. 
Avernas  223. 


INDEX. 


395 


Avins-en-Condroz  223. 
Axel  135. 
Aye  191 
Aywaille  215. 

Baarn  338.  374. 
Baelite-Maria-Leerne  55. 
Baelen  177. 
Baesrode  62.  135. 
Baexem  177. 
Baisieux  6S. 
Balgerhoeke  10. 
Baraque  Michel  2^51. 
Barendrecht  378. 
Barneveld  352. 
Barse  223. 
Barvaux  217. 
Barry  69. 
Basecles  55. 
B:is-Oha  223. 
Bassilly  70. 
Bastendorf  239. 
Bastogne  194. 
Bath  246. 
— ,  Fort  174.  24C. 
Bathmen  353. 
Battice  225.  226. 
Baulers  130.  182. 
Baumbii.sch  Forest  237. 
Bazeilles  190. 
Beaufort  236. 
— ,  Chat.  223. 
Beau-Friiipont  214. 
Beaumont  214. 
Beauraing  193. 
Bcek  372. 
Beek-Elsloo  372. 
Beekhuizen  359. 
Beemster  342.  343. 
Beerze,  the  375. 
Beesd  373. 
Befort  230. 
Beilen  349. 
Beirvelde  62. 
Belfeld  873. 
Belle  10. 

Belle-Alliance  129.  118. 
Belle-Fontaine-lez-Etalle 

195. 
Belle-Roche  215. 
Bellevue,  Chateau  of  190. 
Bellingen  70. 
Beloeil  69. 
Belvaux  192. 
Eemmel  370.  373. 
Bennebroek  258. 
Benonchamps  194.  234. 
Benrath  365. 
Bentheim  354. 
Berchem  11.  135.  372. 
Bercheux  194. 
Berdorf  236. 
Bergen  178. 


Bergen  (Holland)  342. 
Bergen  op  Zoom  246. 
Berkel,  the  352. 
Berlaer  176. 
Bernimont  194. 
Bernissart  6S. 
Bertree  223. 
Bertringen  195. 
Bertrix  195. 
Berwinne,  the  218. 
Berze'e  183. 
Best  3G0. 
Bettel  239. 
Bettendorf  239. 
Bettingen  195. 
Betuvve,  the  373. 
Beugen  373. 

Beveland  Canal,  the  246. 
Beveren  32.   63. 
Beverloo  360. 
Beverat  176.  360. 
Beverwyk  339. 
Beytheim  32. 
Bierghes  70. 
Bievre  195. 
Biesbo-sch,  the  374. 
Biezelinge  246. 
Bildchen  240. 
Biljoen  359. 
Bilsen  86u. 
Binche  181. 
Bin.sfeld  240. 
Bioulx,  Chateau  187. 
Birbaix,  Chateau  191. 
Birtringen  235. 
Bivels  240. 

Blaauwe  Trappen  291. 
Blanc-Misseron  181. 
Blandain  68. 
Blankenberghe  7.  10. 
Blaton  55.  68.  69. 
Bleea,  the  239. 
Bleesbruck  239. 
Blerick  373.  374. 
Bleyberg  225. 
Bloemendaal  291.  339. 
Bloemendael  10. 
Blokker  343. 
Blumenthal,  the  236. 
Boeholt  353. 
Bocq,  the  187.191. 
Bodeghem  11. 
Bodegraven  258.  356. 
Boesinghe  28. 
Bois-du-Luc  182. 
Bois-le-Duc  360. 
Boisschot  176. 
Boitsfort  191. 
Bollendorf  240. 
Bolsward  34y. 
Bomal  217. 
Bommel  861. 
Bonne  Esp^rance    181. 


Boom  11.  62,  135.  137. 
Boortmeerbeek  135. 
Borger  349. 
Borinay:e,  le  ISO. 
Born  241. 
Bornhem  135. 
S  Bosch  360. 
Bouchout  115.  175. 
Boucle  33. 
Bouillon  195. 
Bour  237. 
Bourcy  194. 
Boussu  ISO. 
Bonssu-Haine  69. 
Bousval  182. 
Bouvigne  187. 
Bouvines  6S. 
Bouwel  135.  177. 
Bovenkarspel  843. 
Bovignv  216. 
Boxmeer  373. 
Boxtel  360.  375. 
Bracquegnies  182. 
B rages  70. 

Braine  T Alleud  180.  17S. 
Braine-le-Comte  178.  181. 
Braivos  2'23. 
Brandenburg  239. 
Brasschaet  172. 
Breda  375. 
Brederode  291.  339. 
Bre'e  360. 
Breitweiler  236. 
Bremen  351. 
Breskens,  Fort  244.  9. 
Breukelen  354.  356. 
Brialmont  214. 
Broek  338. 
Bronbeek  359. 
Brouwershaven  174. 
Brugelette  69.. 
Bruges  11, 

Academy  26. 

St.  Anna  26. 

Antiquities,  Coll.  of  22. 

Arquebusiers'  Guild- 
house  27, 

St.  Basile  23. 

Beguinage  27. 

Belfry  21. 

Breidel  and  Conine's 
Mon.  21. 

Cathedral  13. 

Chap,  du  Saint  Sang  23. 

Charles  II.'s  House  22. 

Cour  des  Princes  23. 

Cranenburg  22. 

Dames  Anglaises,  Con- 
vent des  27. 

Fish  Market  22. 

St.  Gillea  26, 

Government  Buildings 
22. 


396 


INDEX. 


Grande  Place  21. 

Gruulhuyse  Palace  17. 

Halles  21. 

Hospitalof  St.  JobnlS. 

Hosp.  dc  laP()tterie2U. 

Hoapices  Civiles  21. 

Hotel  de  Ville  23. 

St.  Jacques  22. 

Jerusalem,  Egl.  de  26. 

Library  25. 

Ste.  Madeleine  27. 

Maison  de  rAncien 
GreQe  23. 

Marche  duVendredi  12. 

Memling's  Statue  26. 

Meyer's  Collection  26 

Museum  20. 

Notre  Dame  15. 

Palais  de  Justice  25. 

Poorters  Loodze  26. 

Porte  d'Ostende  23. 

Railway  Station  12. 

St.  Sauveur  13. 

Stevin's  Statue  21. 

Tonlieu  25. 

Van  Eyck's  Statue  25. 
Bruges-Bassin  10. 
Brumagne,  Chat.  224. 
Bruramcn  352. 
Brussels  72. 

Abattoirs  114. 

Acad^mie  81. 

Alice  Verte  114. 

Ancienne  Cour  89. 

Antiquities  82. 

Archives  104. 

Augustine  Church  109. 

Avenue  du  Midi  113. 

Banks  76. 

Baths  74. 

Banque  Nationale  87. 

Beguinagc,  Egl.  dulll, 

Blind  Asylum  113. 

Bois  de  la  Cambre  115 

Botanic  Garden  111. 

Boulevards  109.111.113 

Bourse  IQ'J. 

Cabs  75. 

Cafes  73.  74. 

Caserne  du  Petit  Chti- 
teau  114. 

Cathedral  85. 

St.  Catherine  110. 

Cemeteries  115.  114. 

Chap.derExpiationlC>8. 

Chateau  115. 

Cite  Fontainas  113. 

Coll.  of  Coins  89. 

—  of  Engravings  89. 

Colonne  du  Congres  85 

Concerts  76. 

Conservatoire  de   Mu 
sique  103. 


Brussels : 

Kcolc  Indu.strielle  110. 

—  Modele  110. 

—  Polytecbnique  108. 

—  Veterinaire  114. 
Eglisc  des  Carmcs  113. 

—  du  Beguinage  111. 

—  du  Musce  89. 
Egmont  and   Iloorne's 

Blonum.  102. 
Embassies  76. 
English  Churches  76. 
Entrepot  114. 
Exchange  109. 
Ferme  E ovale  114. 
Festivals  76. 
Fish-market  110. 
Fontaine  de  Brouckere 

113. 
Galcrie  du  Commerce 
■  1U8. 

—  St.  Hubert  107. 

—  du  Nord  109. 
Grand  Sablon  104. 
Grande  Place  105. 
Ste.  Gudule  !"5. 
Guild  Houses  107. 
Halle  au  Pain  106. 
Halles  Centrales  110. 
Hippodrome  115.  76. 
Hoogstraat  104. 
Horse  IJaces  76.  115. 
Horticulture,  Etab.  de 

112. 
Hospice  Pachdco  113. 
St.  John's  Hospital  111 
Hotel  de  Ville  105. 

—  des  Ventes  liO. 
Hotels  72. 

St.  Jacques  sur  Cauden- 

berg  88. 
Jesuit  Church  111. 
St.  Joseph  112. 
Kuylenberg's    House 

103. 
Lace  74. 
Laekcn  114. 
Library,  Eoyal  88. 
Maison  du  Roi  106. 
Mannikin  107. 
Marche  Convert  107. 85 

—  de  la  Madeleine  107 
Ste.  Marie  de   Schaer 

beek  HI. 
Markets  107.  110. 
Marty  rs'Monument  109 
St.  Mary's  114. 
Mint  113. 
Blontagne   de  la  Cour 

88.  108. 

—  du  Tonnerre  114, 
Monument  of  Anees 

sens  110. 


Brussels : 
Monument  of  Bclliard 

80. 
Charles    of  Lor- 
raine 88. 
Cockerill  113. 

—  —  Egmont  and 
Hoorn  102. 

Gendebicn  104. 

Godfrey  de  Bouil- 
lon 88. 

Helmont  110. 

Leopold  I.  114. 

(^uctelct  81. 

Rouppe  113. 

Verbaegen  108. 

Vesalius  111. 

MuseedesArmures  113. 

—  d'Art  Monuui.  82. 

—  Commercial  111. 

—  Communal  106. 

—  d  lIist.Naturellell2. 

—  Mod  erne  89. 

—  du  Nord  109. 

—  de  Peinture  94. 

—  Scolaire  85. 

—  de  Sculpture  93. 
Mustie  Wierlz  112. 
Musical  Inst.  103. 
Nat.   Hist.  Coll.  112. 
Notre  Dame  de  la  Cha- 

pelle  104. 

—  des  Victoires  101. 
Palais  des  Academies 

81. 

—  des  Beaux  Arts  93. 

—  Royal  80. 

—  du    Cinquantenaire 
81. 

—  du  Comte  de  Flandre 
93. 

—  Ducal  81. 

—  Arenberg  102. 

—  de  Justice  (old)  lOi. 
(new)  103. 

—  du  Midi  110. 

—  de  la  Nation  81. 

—  du  Peuplc  82. 
Pare  Leopold  112. 
Park  80. 
Passage  107. 
Pensions  73. 
Petit  Sablon  101. 
PetitsCarmes,  les  103. 
Picture  Gallery  94. 
Place  des  Barricades 

HI. 

—  du  Congres  85. 

—  de  la  Monnaie  108. 

—  du  Mus^e  88. 

—  Royale  80.  87. 

—  Rouppe  113. 
Porte  de  Hal  113.  105. 


INDEX. 


397 


Brussels : 
Post  Office  74. 108. 109. 
Quarlier  Leopold  112. 
Railway    Stations    72. 

112.  113. 
Ravestein  Mansion  108. 
Uestaurants  73. 
Rue  Haute  104. 

—  de  la  Madeleine  108. 

—  Neuve  lOS. 

—  de  la  Eciience  93. 

—  Royale  80.  82.  111. 
Salazar,  Chapelle  103. 
Shops  74. 

Suburbs  77.  115. 

Synagogue  103. 

Tavernes  73. 

Telegraph  Office  74. 

Theatres  76.  81.  108. 

Tramway  75. 

University  108. 

Vauxhall  81. 

Willebroek  Canal  114. 

Zaavelplaata  101.  104. 
15  u  del  177. 
Btiderscheid  234. 
Buggenhout  135. 
Buiksloot  338. 
Buitenhuizen  337. 
Bunde  351.  372. 
Burg  342. 
BuTglinster  242. 
Burgreuland  216.  240. 
Burnot  187. 
Burscbeid  235. 
Burst  33. 
Bussum  346. 
Buysingen  70. 

Calais  64. 
Calcum  368. 
Calevoet  116. 
Callenelle  08. 
Calloo,  Fort  173. 
Calmpthont  172. 
Cambre,  Abbey  de  la  115. 
Cambron-Casteau,  Abbey 

69. 
Campine  Anversnise  172. 
— ,  Canal  de  la  177. 
Candia  3G8. 
Capelle  (Kast-Flanders) 

135.  173. 

—  (Zuid-HoUand)  375. 

—  (near  Rotterdam)  354. 
Cappellen  (near  Antwerp) 

172. 

—  (near  Luxembourg) 
195. 

Carnieres  181. 
Castert  218. 
Castricum  340. 
Celle  189. 


Centre,  Ic  181. 
Chaleux  189. 
Chapelle-a-Wattines  69. 
Charlemont  190. 
Charleroi  181.  1S3. 
Charlevillc  190. 
Chastre  191. 
Chatelet  184. 
Chatelineau  184. 
Chaudfontaine  225. 
Chawiun,  the  230. 
Chenee  225.  226. 
Cheratte  218. 
Chevremont  225. 
Chimav  183. 
Chokier  221. 
Christnach  236. 
Cinev  191.  197. 
Claushofj  the  237. 
Clavier  223. 
Glemencv  195. 
Clerf  233. 
Clerfthal,  the  234. 
Clervaux  233. 
Clevc  367. 
Cluysen  10. 
Colmar-Berg  235. 
Cologne  368.  369. 
Colonstre  214. 
Combl:iin-au-Pont  216. 
Coml.laiu-la-Tour  217. 
Comines  34.  30. 
Compiegne  180. 
Condroz  191. 
Consdorf  236. 
Contich  135.  62. 
Coo  231.  216. 
Cornillon  209. 
Corphalie  222. 
Cortemurck  28.  31. 
Cortenberg  195. 
Couillet  184. 
Cour  231. 
Gourriere  191. 
Court  -  St.  Etiennc    182. 

202. 
Courtil  216. 
Courtrai  56. 
Couvin  183. 
Cranenburg  367. 
Grefeld  374. 
Creil  180.!.181. 
Crevecoeur  187. 
Croix-Ronge  194. 
Croix-Wasquehal  58. 
Cuesmes  180.  181. 
Culenborg  361. 
Cureghem  70.  77. 
Cuyk  373. 

Dadi/.elle  32. 
Dahnen  240. 
Dalfsjn  349. 


Dalheim  178.  218.  239. 
Damme  27.  9. 
Dasburg  240. 
Dave  187. 
De  Bilt  347. 
De  Burg  342. 
De  Peel  374. 
De  Punt  350. 
De  Steeg  352. 
Dedemsvaart  349. 
Dcerlvck  o4. 
Deigne  226.  232. 
Deinum  345. 
Delden  354. 
Delfshaven  255. 
Delft  256. 
Delfzyl  351. 
Demer,  the  ITlJ. 
Denderleeuw  11.  69. 
Dendermonde  (J2. 
Dendre,  the  10. 62. 69.  etc. 
Denee-Maredsous  1H4. 
St.  Denis-Bovesse  191. 

Nederzwalm  33. 
St.  Denis-Westrcm  31. 
Derenba^h  234. 
Desselghem  55. 
Deule,  the  65. 
Deurle  31.  55. 
Deurne  374. 
Deutichem  352.  367. 
Deutz  363. 
Deventer  353. 
Deynze  31.  55. 
Dhiin,  the  868. 
Dieghem  195. 
Diekirch  239. 
Diemerbrug  338. 
Diemermeer,  the  354. 
Diepenbeek  176.  360. 
Diepenveen  353. 
Dieren  352. 

Dieren  Canal,  the  352. 
Diest  176. 
Dieupart  232. 
Diksmuide  31. 
Dilbeek  11. 
Dillingen  240. 
Dinant  188. 
Dintel,  the  376. 
Dison  226. 
Dodewaard  373. 
Docl  174. 
Doesborgh  352. 
Doiscbe  184. 
Dokkum  345. 
Dolhain  226. 
Dollart,  the  351. 
Domburg  245. 
Dommel,  the  360.  375. 
Dommeldange  237. 
iDoncherv  190. 
Donck  10. 


398 


INDEX. 


Dondelingen  237. 
Dongen  376. 
Doom  366. 

Doornik,  see  Tournai. 
Doorwerth  357. 
Dordrecht  37G. 
Dordsche  Kil,   the  175. 
Dormagen  374. 
Dorsten  353. 
Dort  376. 
Douai  181. 
Dour  180. 
Douvbes  183. 
Driichtcn  349. 
Drauffelt  234. 
Drentsclie  Diep  350. 
DrentscLe-lIoofd-Kjiiiaal 

349. 
Driebergeii  366. 
Dronryp  345. 
l>ry  Toren  131. 
Dudzeele  9.  10. 
Duffel  135. 
Duisburg  369.  368. 
Duiveland  174. 
Duivelsberg  372. 
Duiven  367.  368. 
Dunkirk  32. 
Duno  357. 
Durbuy  217. 
Dvisseldorf  368.  369. 
Dyle,  the  131.  197. 

Ecauasines  178.  181. 
Kcht  372. 
Kchteld,  the  378. 
Ecbternach  241. 
Edam  338. 
Ede  357. 
Eecke  55. 
Eeckeren  172. 
Eecloo  10. 
Eelen  176. 
Eem,  the  347. 
Kems-Kanaal  351. 
Eenaeme  33. 
Eerneghem  2*^. 
Eessen  31. 
Ecxt  349. 
Eghezde  196. 
Egmond  341. 
Ebsbachthal,  the  23G. 
Eich  237. 

Eindhoven  3G0.  375. 
Eineburg,  the  225. 
Kisch,  the  230. 
Eisenbach  240. 
Elbarg  347. 
EUezelles  70.  33. 
Klouges  180. 
Elsloo  372. 
ELst  370.  373. 
Elten  307.  368. 


Embourg  225. 
Embresin  196. 
Emden  351. 
Emmaburg,  the  225. 
Emmerich  368.  309. 
Empel  308. 
Emptinne  223. 
Encheringen  234. 
Endegecst  285. 
Enghien  70.  181. 
Engihoul.  Chateau  222. 
Engis  222. 
Enkhuizen  343. 
Enouf  224. 
Ensival  226. 
Epe  347. 
Eppeghem  131. 
Eprave   193. 
Erembodcghem  11. 
Erenz,  the  235.  230.  etc, 
Erfprins,  Fort  342. 
Ermelo  349. 
Emzcrhof  241. 
Erpeldingen  2.35.  231. 
Erquelinnes   183. 
Ertvelde  10. 
Erwetegbem  181. 
Escaut,  see  Sche.lde. 
Esch  an  der  Saner  234. 
Esemael  190. 
Esueux  214. 
Esschen  172. 
Hlsschene  10. 
ICstaimpuis  58. 
Estinnes  181. 
Ethe  194. 
Ktichove  55. 
Ettelbriick  235. 
Etterbeek  191. 
Elten  245. 
Eulenburg  236. 
Eupen  227. 
Evere  115. 
Everghem  10. 
Exel  360. 

Eyerland,  the  342. 
Eygenbilsen  170. 
Eyne  55. 
Eysden  218. 

Fagnes,  Plat,  des  231. 
Falkenstein  240. 
Fallais  223. 
Famene,  the  218. 
Familleareux  181. 
Faulx,  Chat.  224. 
Fauquemont  170. 
Fauroeulx  178.  181. 
Feignics  J  80. 
Fels  235. 

Feluy-Arquennes  182. 
Ferschweiler  241. 
Fexhe  197. 


Feyenoord  175.  255. 
Finsterwolde  361. 
Fischetterhof  23'). 
Flawinnes  184. 
Flemalle  222. 
Flenu  180. 
Fleron  226. 
Fleurus  202.  203. 
Floing  190. 
Flone  222. 
Floreffe  184. 
b'lorenne  183. 
Florenville  195. 
Florival  202. 
Flove,  the  187. 
Flusl.ing  243. 
Folx-les-Caves  196. 
Fontaine  TEvSque  181. 
Fontenoy  68. 
Forest  70. 
Forest-Stall  e  116. 
Fdrrieres  193. 
Fouches  194. 
Franchimont  228. 
Francorchauiiis  235- 
Franeker  345. 
Fran ie re  184. 
Frasne  182. 
Frasnea  55. 
Frederic,  Fort  173. 
Frodcrik.soord  349. 
Frene  187. 
Frenois  190. 
Freyr  189. 
Froyenne  68. 
Fumal  223. 
Fnrfooz  189. 
Furnes  31. 

Gaasterland  344. 
Uadzand  9. 
Gamraerages  181. 
Gand-St,  Pierre  10. 
Gastuc.he  2(^2. 
Gavcre  55. 
Gedinne  195. 
Geeraard.sbergen  ,     see 

Granunont. 
Geortruidenberg376. 173. 
(ieet-Betz  190. 
Geffen  372. 

Geldermalsen  301.  373. 
Geldern  308. 
Gembloux  191. 
Gemiind  240. 
Genappe  130.  182. 
Geuck  170. 
St.  Genfese  110. 
Gennep  368. 
Gentingen  240. 
Geronslore  2: JO.  231. 
Geijiinne.'i  184. 
Geul,  the  176. 


INDEX. 


399 


aheel  177. 
Ghent  34. 

Academy  50. 

Ste.  Anne  55. 

Archives  43. 

Athenaeum  46. 

Artevelde's   Statue  45. 

Baudeloohof  46. 

Bauwens,  Mon.  of  38 

St.  Bavon  3S. 

— ,  Abbey  of  46. 

Beguinage,  Grand  47. 

— ,  Petit  55. 

Belfry  43. 

Beroeps-School  51. 

Biloque,  Abbey  52. 

Blind  Asylum  52. 

Botanic  Garden  46. 

Boucherie  49- 

Casino  52. 

Cathedral  38. 

Chapel  of  S.Macairc  47. 

Charitable  Society  44. 

Citadel  37. 

Cloth  Hall  44. 

Collacie-Zolder  45. 

Coupure,  the  52. 

Cour  du  Prince  37.  51. 

Dulle  Griete  46. 

Ecole  des  Arts  54. 

—  du  Ge'nie  5i. 
Epi.scopal  Palace  43- 
Flower-shows  52. 
Graslei  48. 
Gravcnkastcel  49. 
Hopital  Civil  52. 
Horticult.  Society   52. 
Hospice  for  Old  Men  53. 
Hotel  de  Ville  41. 
Ins'itutdes  Scicnce354. 
St.  Jacques  46. 
Router  53. 

Library  46. 

Maison  de  Force  52. 

—  de  Surete  52. 
Mammelokker  44. 
Marche  au  Beurre  44. 

—  aux  Grains  48. 

—  aux  Herbes  49. 

—  aux  Poissons  49. 

—  du  Vendredi  45. 
Metdepenningen, Statue 

of  54. 
St.  Michael  48. 
Mus^e  d'Arche'ologie50. 

—  de  peinture  50. 
Nat.  Hist.  Museum  54. 
St.  Nicholas  48. 
Oudeburg  49. 

Pare  dela  Citadelle53. 
Palais  de  Justice  53. 
Picture  Gallerv  50. 
St.  Pierre  54. 


Ghent: 

Place  d'Armes  53. 

Pont  du  Laitaiie50. 45 

Quai  aux  Herbes  48. 

Rabot.  Le  52. 

Schreiboom  Chapel  53 

Skipper  House  48. 

Staple  House  48. 

Theatre  53. 

University  54. 

Van  deVelde,  Mon.  of 
53. 

Zoolog.  Garden  55. 
^t.  Ghislain  55.  69.  180. 
Ghistelles  28. 
Ghyvelde  32. 
•  ^iessendam  374. 
Giete  349. 
Gildehaus  354. 
Gileppe,  the  227. 
St.  Gilles  135. 
Gilsdorf  239. 
Gilze-Ryen  375. 
Gingeloin  197. 
Girster-Klause  241. 
Gits   32. 
Gives  223. 
Givet  181.  190. 
Gladbach  178. 
Glain,  the  216. 
Glons  360. 

Gobelsmiihlc  2-35.  234. 
Goch  363. 
Godarville  182. 
Godinne  187. 
Goc  227. 
Goes  245.  174. 
Goesdorf  231. 
Gi3hl  Valley,  the  227. 
Goldfralei,  the  236. 
Gorcum  373. 
Gorinchem  373. 
Gorsel  358. 
Gosselies  130.  182. 
Gouda  354. 
Goumont  127. 
Gouvy  216. 
Gouwe,  the  854.  355. 
Gouv-leK-Pieton  182. 
Goyer  197. 
Goyet  224. 
Graide-Bievre  195. 
Grammene  31. 
Grammont  181. 
Grand-Halleux  216. 
Grand-Pre  224. 
Grands-Malades  224. 
sGraven  Brakel  178. 
s'Gravenhage  260. 
Grefrath  374. 
Grieth  369. 
Grift,  the  352. 
Grimlinghauscn  369. 


Groenendael  IJl. 
Groenlo  353. 
Groesbeek  357. 
Groningen  350. 
Gronsveld  21S. 
Grouw  819. 
Grubbenvorst  373. 
Grundhof-Neumiihle  236. 

240. 
Grupont  198. 
Guelderlund  358. 

Haarlem  285. 
Haarlemmer  Poldi>r  258. 
Habay-la-Neuve  194. 
Hacher  234. 
Ilaccht  135. 
Haelen  177.  196. 
Ilaeltert  33. 
llaeren  130. 
Hague,  the  259. 

Archives  270. 

Binnenhof  261. 

De  Boer's  Bazaar  2G0. 
275. 

Buitenhof  270. 

Cannon  Foundry  274. 

Collection    of     Coin.<!, 
etc.  274. 

Colonial  Office  270. 

Duke  Bernhard's  Mo- 
nument 274. 

English  Church  260. 

Finance,  Min.  of  273. 

Fish  Market  271. 

Geregtshof  261. 

Gevangenpoort  270. 

Groote  Kerk  271. 

Hooge  IJaad  270. 

Huis  ten  Bosch  276. 

St.  James  271. 

Justice,  Min.  of  270. 

Kneuterdvk  278. 

Knights'  Hall  261. 

Lange  Voorhout  273. 

Library  274. 

Malieveld  275. 

Mauritshuis  262. 

Minist.  Offices  261.  270. 

JIunicipal  Museum  272. 

Museum     3Ieermanno- 
Westreenianum  274. 

National  Monum.   275. 

Navy  Office  274. 

Nieuwe  Kerk  275. 

Noordeinde  273. 

Palace,  Royal  273. 

Pal.  of  Princess  Marie 
274. 

Park  275. 

Passage  270. 

Picture  Gallery  262. 

Plein  270. 


400 


INDEX. 


Hague : 

Railway  Stations  269. 

Spinoza's    House    and 
Statue  275. 

Steensracht's  Picture 
Gallery  272. 

Theatre  260.  274. 

Town  Hall  271. 

Tramways  260. 

Vegetable  Market  271. 

Vyver  261. 

Vvverberg  271. 

War  Office  270. 

Willems-Park  275. 

William  I.'s  Statue  270- 
275. 

—  II.'s  Statue  270. 

WitteSocieteit  270.275. 

Zoolog.-Botan.  Gardeu 
275. 
Hainault  58.  178. 
Haine,  the  182. 
Haine  St.  Pierre  178. 181. 
Hal  70. 
TIalancv  194. 
Halen  196. 
Halfweg  259. 
ITallerbach  Valley  236. 
Halleux  215. 
Halsbach,  the  236. 
Haltinne  224. 
Hamme  62. 
Ilamerenne  192. 
Hamoir  217. 
Hamois  223. 
Hamont  177. 
Hamoul  217. 
Han-sur-Lessc  192. 
— ,  Trou  de  192. 
Handzaeme  31. 
Hannut  223. 
Hansbeke  10. 
Hansweerd  174. 
Harchies  68. 
Harderwvk  347. 
Hardinxveld  374. 
Haren  3.50. 
Harleheke  55. 
Harlingen  346. 
Harmelen  258.  356. 
Harmignies  181. 
Hart  239. 
Hartenkamp  258. 
Harwich  137. 
Harz^  215. 
Hasselt  176.  360. 
Hastifere  183.   189. 
Hatrival  194. 
Hattem  347. 
Haut-Pr^  197. 
Hautegard  231. 
Hauterage  69. 
Haute  Roche  183. 


llavclange  223. 
Haversin  191. 
Havinnes  69. 
Havre  182. 
Hazebrouck  28.  64. 
Hazerswoude  258. 
Hedel  361. 
Hcer  190. 
'S  Heer  245. 
Heerenveen  349. 
Heeswvk  361. 
Heid  217. 

Heid  des  Gatles  232. 
Heiderscheidergrund234. 
ITeiligcrlee  351. 
Hello  340. 

ITeiinenberg,  the  357. 
Ilclchteren  360. 
Heldcr,  the  341. 
Ilelcnaveen  374. 
Helmond  374. 
Helperknap  239. 
Helvoirt  372. 
Ilemixem  11. 
Hemmen  373. 
Hengelo  354. 
Hennuyeres  178. 
Herbesthal  227. 
Herbeumont  195. 
Hereiit  195. 
Herenthals  135.  177. 
Heringcrburg  236. 
Herinnes  181. 
Hermalle  218.  222. 
Herseaux  58. 
Herstal  359. 
'S  Hertogenbosch  360. 
Herve  225.  226. 
Herzeele  33. 
Hesbaye,  the  197. 
Hesperingen  238. 
Hestroumont  231. 
Het  Sloe  245. 
Het/ingen  234. 
Hcule  33. 
Heverle  202. 
Heyenoord  359. 
Heyst  8.  9.  10. 
Hevst-op-den-Berg   176. 
HilVersum  338.  346. 
Hinkel  241. 
Hindeloopen  344. 
Hoboken  11.  135. 
Hockai  232. 
Hodimont  226. 
Hoegne,  the  227.  231. 
Hoesselt  360. 
HoflFelt  234. 
Hohlenfels  236. 
Hohllei,  the  236. 
Hollandsch  Diep  174.  376 
Holland    op    zvn    Smalst 
337. 


Holler  240. 
Hombeeck  135. 
Homberg  369. 
Hoogeveen  349. 
Hoogezand  351. 
Hooghalen  349. 
Hooghledel31.  28. 
Hoogkarspel  343. 
Hoogstralen  172.  135. 
Hoorn  343. 
Hoornsche  Diep  350. 
Horst-Sevenum  374. 
Hosingen  231.  240. 
Hotton  217. 
Houdeng  178. 
HoutTalize  194.  216 
Ilougomont  127.   117. 
Houten  361. 
Houthem  31. 
Houyet  189. 
Hoyoux,  the  222.  223. 
St.  Hubert  193. 
Huccorgne  223. 
Hugerbach,  the  236. 
Hugowaard  341. 
Huissen  3(;8. 
Huis  Loo  368. 
Huis  ten  Donk  175. 
Huizen  338. 
Hulshorst  347. 
Hulst  135. 
Humbeek  115. 
Hunse,  the  350. 
Huy  222. 
Hyon  181. 

Ichteghem  28. 
Ideghera  69. 
Igel  242. 
Ihrhove  351. 
Ingclmiinster  33. 
Irnsum  349. 
Irres,  the  240. 
Iseghem  32. 
Iteghem  135. 
Tvoigne  189. 
Ixelles  115. 
Izel  195. 

Jabbeke  10. 

Jambes  186. 

Jan  Tabak  338. 

Jaufferslei  235. 

Javaz  223. 

Jehav,  Chateau  222. 

Jemelle  191. 

Jemeppe  213.  221. 

—  sur-Sambre  184. 

Jemappes  69.  180. 

Jette  11. 

Jodolgne  196. 

St.  Johaimishohle  240. 


INDEX. 


401 


.Toris  202. 
Jumet  130. 
.Tupille  218. 
.Turbise  69.  178. 
.Tuslenville  227. 
Juzaine  217. 

Kaatsheuvel  172. 
Kaiserswerth  368.  369. 
Kaldenkin-hen  374. 
Kampen  ?48. 
Kapelle  24'). 
Kapstal  237. 
Karthaus  242. 
Kiitvvyk  Binnen  28.0. 
Katwyk  aan  Zee  285. 
Kautenbi'ch  23i.  194. 
Kcetcn,  de  174. 
Keizer  Vlaanderen  10. 
Kempen  36S.  374. 
Kermpt  176. 
Kesselter  Bach  236. 
Kesteren  37.3. 
Kevelaer  868. 
Kinderdvk   175. 
Kippcnhof  239. 
Klarenbeck  359. 
Klooster  373. 
Knodsenburg  372. 
Knokke  9. 

KoUcsterlei.  the  234. 
Koog  y36.  339. 
Koolkerke  9. 
Korich  237. 
Kortryk,  see  Courtrai. 
Koudekerk  258. 
Krabbendyke  246. 
Kralingen  175. 
Krammer,  the  174. 
Kreckrnk  174.  246. 
Krimpen  175. 
Kromme  Goaw,  the  354. 
Krommenie  336.  339. 
Kromme  Khyn    3(31. 
Kropswolde  350. 
Kruchten  235. 
Krtiiningen  246. 
Kuilenborg  361. 
Kiippersteg  368. 
Kwadvk  34"!. 
Kykduin  342.  276. 

Laag  Soeren  352. 

La  Clinge  135. 

Laeken  11. 

Laerne,  Chat,  de  62. 

Lage-Zwaluwe   172.  376. 

La  Gleize  216.  231. 

La  Hamaide  68. 

La  Haye  127. 

La  Have-Sainte  126.  117. 

La  Hulpe  191. 

La  Louviere  182. 

Bakdekek's  Belgium 


Lanaeken  176. 
Landeghem  10. 
Landen  196. 
Laneffe  183. 
Langenfeld  368. 
Langerbrugge  10. 
Langeweg  376. 
Langhemarck  26. 
]Langsur  241. 
La  Panne  32. 
Il-.i  Pinte  31. 
La  Reid  228.  231. 
iLaren  338. 
Larenberg  338. 
I  La  Roche  217.  202. 
I  La  Eochette  235. 
Latinne  223. 
I  La  Trappe  183. 
iLauterbach,  the  236. 
Lauwe  57. 
Lavaux  194. 
Leau  196. 
Le  Borinage  180. 
Le  Centre  181. 
Ledeghem  32. 
Leer  351. 
Leerdam  373. 
Leeuwarden  344. 
Le  Heron  218. 
Lei,  the  31.  35.   52.  etc. 
Leidsche  Dam  276. 
Leignon  191. 
Leiwerdelt  Rocks  236. 
Lek,  the  S^M. 
Lembecq  178. 
Lendelede  33. 
Lengeler  216. 
Lens  69. 
Lent  370. 

Les  Amraerois  195. 
Lesse,  the  189.  192.  183. 
— ,  Chateau  189. 
Lessines  69. 
Le  Tilleul  183. 
Leupeehem  55. 
Leur  246. 
Leuze  55.  69. 
Leyden  279. 
Liborius-Klause  241. 
Lihramont  194. 
Lichtaert  135. 
Lichtervelde  31.  32. 
Lichtevoorde  353. 
Liede  258. 

Liefkenshoek,  Fort  173. 
Liege  203. 

St.  Antoine  209. 

Archaeological   Mu- 
seum 2as. 

Archives  20S. 
St.  Barthelemy  209. 
Botanic  Garden  212. 
Boulevards  2U6. 
and  Holland.  lOth  Edit. 


Liege: 
Bourse  20S. 
Cannon    Foundry  205. 
Caserne  St.Laurent212. 
Cathedral  211. 
Charlemagne,  Statue  of 

206. 
Chartreuse  212. 
Citadel  212. 
Conservatoire  206. 
Ste.  Croix  207. 
St.  Denis  210. 
Dumont's  Statue  210. 
Exchange  208. 
Fontaine    des     Trois 

Graces  208. 
Grand  Marche  208. 
Gretry^s  Statue  206. 
Gim  Manufactories  2()4. 
Hotel     du     Gouvenic- 

ment  208. 

—  de  Ville  208. 
St.  Jacques  211. 
St.  Jean  206. 
St.  Martin  207. 
Mont  de  Pi^te  209. 
Muse'e  d'Armes  209. 
Musee   Municipal   209. 
Palais    de  Justice  208. 
Passase  Lemonnier210. 
St,  Paul  211. 

Place  St.  Lambert  207. 
Pont  des  Arches  209. 

—  de  la  Boverie  210. 
Square  d'Avroy  206. 
Theatre  206. 
University  210. 
Zoolog.  Garden  211. 

Lierde-Ste.  Marie  181. 
Lierre  175.  135. 
Liers  SCO. 
Lieve,  the  35. 
Ligne  69. 
Ligny  182.  202. 
Lille  64. 

Lille-Saint-Hubert  177. 
Lillo,  Fort  174. 
Lillois  130. 
Limal  202. 
Limburg  22B. 
Linge,  the  361.  373. 
Linne  372. 
Lintgen  237. 
Liotte,  the  215. 
Lippe,  the  368. 
Lis.'ieweghe  8. 10. 
Live  22i. 
Lobherich  374. 
Lobith  369. 
Lodelinsart  183.  202. 
Loenen-Vreeland  354. 
Lfx^venftein  374. 
Logne  217. 

26 


402 


INDEX. 


Lokercn  63. 
I.ombeck  11. 
Lomme,  lhel91.192.193. 
I.ommel  177. 
Londerzeel  11.  135. 
London  1.  64.  246. 
I/ongerich  374. 
Longlier  194. 
Longueau  181. 
Longwy  194. 
Loo,  Huis  352.  368. 
Loochristy  63. 
lioosduinen  2T6. 
Looz  190. 
Lophem  82. 
Lorentzweiler  237. 
Loth  70. 
Lottum  373. 
Louise-Marie  55. 
Louvain  197. 
Louvcignez  226. 
Lustin  187. 
Liittich,  see  Liege. 
Luttre  130.  182. 
Luxembourg  237. 
— ,  Grand-duchy  233. 
Lys,  see  Lei. 

Maarsbergen  357. 
Maarssen  354. 
Maas,  the  278.  372. 
Waasbracht  372. 
Maasevck  176.  372. 
Haastricht  218. 
Machelen  55. 
Maftles  69. 
Mai  son  Kouire  129. 
Ulaldeghem  10.  9. 
Malderen  135. 
Malines  131. 
TMalmddy  232. 
Malonne  184. 
Walphaquet  180. 
Wamer  195. 
— ,  the  236. 
Manage  181. 
Marbais  202. 
Marbehan  194. 
Marche  218. 
Marche  228. 
Marche-les-Dames  204. 
—  les-Ecaussines  187. 
Marchienne  181.  182.  203 
Harcinelle  184. 
Marck,  the  172. 
Maredsous  187. 
Mariakerke  6. 
Ste.  Marie-d'Oignies  184 
Mariembourg  183. 
Mariemont  181. 
Marienthal  236. 
:\liirken  33S. 
Marloie  191.  218. 


Marsdicp  842. 
Martcau  231. 
St.  Martin  11. 
Marfin-Rive  215. 
Masbeux  226. 
Masnuy  178. 
Mastenbroek  348. 
Masures, Chateau  dcs  226. 
Maubray  68. 
Maulde  69. 
Maulusmiihle  233. 
Mechelen,  see  Malines. 
St.  M(^dard  188. 195. 
Medemblick  3i3. 
Medernach  235. 
Meerenberg  291.  339. 
Meerlo  373. 
Mcersen  176. 
Meerwyk  372. 
Mehaigne,  the  223. 
Meirelbeke  61.  181. 
Jfeix-devant-Virton  195. 
Blelick-Herkenbosch  178. 
Mclle  10.  62.  181. 
Mellier  194. 
Melreux  217. 
Menin  34. 
Meppel  349. 
Merbe-Braine  126. 
Merbes-Ste.  Marie  181. 
Blerckholz  234.   194. 
Merk,  the  375. 
Mcrsch  236. 
Mertert  242. 
Merwede,  the  175.  374. 
Merxem  137. 
Messancy  194. 
Mcttet  184. 
Mettray,  INedcrL  353. 
Metz  239. 

Meuse,  the  185.  205.  221 
Mevergnies  69. 
Meysemburg  235. 
Meysse  115. 
Mczieres  190. 
Michelau  235. 
Middachten  359. 
Middelburg  244. 
Middelkerke  7. 
Midden-Beemster  343. 
Mille-Pommes  63. 
Millingen  369. 
Miranda,  Chateau  189. 
Mirwart,  Chateau  193. 
Modave  223. 
Moercapelle  356. 
Moerdyk  172.    175. 
3Ioere  28. 
— ,  the  35. 
MoestrofT  239. 
Moha  228. 
Moinil,  Chat.  224. 
Moll  177. 


Monceau  214. 
Mondorf  239. 
Moniat  189. 
Monnikendain  338. 
Mons  178. 
Montaigle  187. 
Montfort  225. 
Monthermd  195. 
Mont-Jardin  232. 
Mont  St.  Aubcrt  58.  61. 
Mont  St.  Guibert   191. 

208. 
Mont  St.  Jean  125.  116. 
Mont  St.  Martin  191. 
btnntigny  183. 
IMont-sur-Marchienne 

183. 
Montzen  225. 
Mook  878. 
Moordrecht  854. 
Moorsel  11. 
Moorslede  32. 
Moresnet  225. 
Morhet  194. 
Morialme  183. 
Morlanwelz  181. 
Moselle,  the  239. 
Mouffrin  187.  191. 
Moulbaix,  Chateau  69. 
Moulins  187. 
Mouscron  57. 
Moustier  184. 
Muiden  337.  346. 
Muiderberg  338. 
Miihlbachthal  240. 
Miilheim  368.  369. 
Mullerthal  236. 
Miinchen-Oladbach  178. 
Munsterbilsen  176. 
My  215. 

Naardcn  338.  346. 
Namechc  224. 
Namur  184. 
Naninnc  191. 
Natoye  187.  191. 
Nazareth  55. 
Kechin  58. 
Nederhem  360. 
Nederlandsch  Mettray 

353. 
Neer-Linter  196. 
Neerpelt  177.  360. 
Neerwinden  196. 
Nennig  239. 
Nessonvaux  226. 
Nethe,  the  135. 
Neufchateau  194. 
Neufvilles  178. 
Neumoustier  222. 
Neuss  369.  374. 
Neuville  222. 
St.  L^icolas  03.  135. 


INDEX. 


403 


Niederwiltz  234. 
Xieukerk  36S. 
Xieukerken  63. 
Nieuport  31. 
Nieuport-Bains  31.  7. 
Nieuwe  Diep  341. 
Nieuwe  Ley  375. 
Kieuwendam  337. 
Isieuwerkerk  354. 
Xieuwersluis  354. 
^ieuweschans  351. 
ITieuwe  Tonge  174. 
Nimy  182. 
Xinove  69. 
Nippes  374. 
Nismes  183. 
Xivelles  130. 
Xivelles-Xord  182. 
Xoirhat  182. 
Xonceveux  215. 
Xoord,  De  175. 
Xuord  Holland  338. 
Xoord -Hollandsche   Ka- 

naal,  the  336. 
Xoord-Schaarwoude  341. 
Xoordwyk  aan  Zee  285. 
Xoordwykerhout  25S. 
Xoordzee  Eanaal  337. 
Xorf  374. 

Xorth  Sea  Canal  337.  339 
Xotre  Dame  de  3Iontaigu 

176. 
Xoville  196. 
Xoyon  180. 
Xuck,  the  235 
Xuenen"  347. 
Xuland  372. 
Xunspeet  347. 
Xiitterden  367. 
Xvenveen  349. 
Nykerk  347. 
Nylen  135.  177. 
Xymegen  370. 

Obaix-Buzet  130. 
Oberhausen  368. 
Obersgegen  240. 
Oberwiltz  234. 
Obourg  182. 
Oetringen  242. 
Chain  126. 
Oisterwyk  375. 
Okeghein  G9. 
Oldemarkt  349. 
Oldenburg  351. 
Oldenzaal  354. 
Olloy  183. 
Olsene  55. 
01st  353. 
St.  Omer  64. 
Ommerschans  349. 
Oolen  177. 
Ooltgensplaat,  Fort  174. 


Oorderen  173. 
Oostduinkerke  7. 
Oosterbeek  357.  373. 
Oosterhout  376. 
Ooster-Schelde,  the  174. 
Oosterweel  Fort  173. 
Oosthuizen  343. 
Oostkamp  10. 
Oostkerke  31. 
Oostzaan  342. 
Oppum  374. 
Opwyck  11. 
Oranje-Canal,  the  349. 
Ordan£;e  196. 
Orot  184. 
Orsov  369. 
Oival  195. 
033  372. 
Ostend  1. 
Osterath  374. 
Ottignies  182.  191.  202. 
Oude  Aa,  the  350. 
Oude  Diep,  the  349. 
Oude-God  135. 
Oudenarde  33. 
Oudenbosch  172. 
Oudenburg  10. 
Oudeschild  342. 
Oude  Schoot  349. 
Oude  Tonge  174. 
Oudewater  356. 
Ougrde  213.  221. 
Our,  the  240. 
Ouren  240. 

Ourthe,  the  205.  214.  216. 
Overveen  292. 
Oydonck,  Chat.  47.  55. 

Paliseul  195. 
Palogne  217. 
Pannerden  368. 
Papelotte  127.  117. 
Papignies  69. 
Pare,  Abbey  202.  195. 
Passchendaele  32. 
Paturages  180. 
Pavilions  184. 
Peel,  De  374. 
Peperga  349. 
Pepinster  226. 
Perck  131. 
Perikop,  the  236. 
Peruwelz  68. 
Pervyse  31. 
Peteiihem  34. 
Petersberg,  the  220. 
Petrusse,  the  237. 
PfaDFenthal,  the  237. 
St.  Philippe,  Fort  173, 
Philippsland  174. 
Philippeville  183. 
Philippine  10. 
Picherotte,  the  229. 


Pierre  Brunehault  61. 

St.  Pieter  220. 

Piet  Gyzenbrug  258. 

Pieton  181.  130. 

Pintsch  234. 

Pirange  196. 

Pitthem  31. 

Plackige  Ley,  the  234. 

Plancenoit    or    Planche- 

nois  129. 
Poelcapelle  28. 
Poilvache  ISf. 
Poix  193. 

Pommeroeul  56.  68. 
Pont-a-Celles  182. 
Pont-a-Lesse  189. 
Pont-de-Bonne  223. 
Poperinghe  30. 
Potage  195. 
Poulseur  214. 
Pravon  225. 
Predigt3tuhl  235. 
Profondeville  187. 
Priim-zur-Ley  241. 
Puera  62.  135. 
Pulvermiihlthal  242.239. 
Purmerende  342. 
Putten  172.  347. 

ftuaregnon  69.  189. 
Quareux  216. 
— ,  Fond  de  215. 
Quatrebras  182. 
Quatrecht  10,  62. 
St.  Quentin  180, 
Quievrain  180. 

Ramillies  196. 
Ramscappelle  31. 
Ilansart  202. 
Ravenstein  372. 
Rebaix  69. 
Recogne  194. 
Reeberg,  the  359. 
Rees  369. 
Reeth  62. 
Reisdorf  240. 
Reitdiep  350. 
Remich  239. 
Remouchamps  231.  226, 
Renaix  55. 

Rendeux-Hamoul  217. 
Ressen  370.  373. 
Reuter-Pennink  234. 
Reuver  373. 
Revogne  193. 
Rhederoord  352.  359. 
Rhedersteeg  352. 
Rheindahlen  178. 
Rheine  354. 
Rhenen  348. 
TMieydt  178. 
Rhine,  the  362. 

2G* 


404 


INDEX, 


Rhine,  the  Old  279.  302 
Khisne  191. 
Rhode  116. 
Rickingen  236. 
Rilland  246. 
Rivage  189.  215. 
Riviere  187. 
Rixensart  191. 
Roanne  216.  231. 
Robermont  212. 
Roche-a-Bayard  i89._ 

—  aux-Corneilles  187. 

—  a-Frene  217. 

—  a-Lomme  183. 

—  de  Faulx  187. 
Rochefort  192. 
St.  Roclius  240. 
Rocour  360. 
Rodershausen  240. 
Koer,  the  372. 
Roermond  372, 
Roeselare  32. 
RogDon  178.  181. 
Rolde  349. 

Bond  Tienne  193. 
Ronheide  227. 
Eooborst  33. 
Roodt  242. 
Roosendaal  172.  240. 
Roosendael  32. 
Rosmalen  372. 
Rosoux  197. 
Rosport  241. 
Roth  240. 
Rotselaer  195. 
Rotte,  the  248. 
Rotterdam  2-40. 

Archives  250. 

Art  Exhibition  2;t8. 

Boompjes  254. 

Boymans''  Museum  249. 

Bridges  255. 

Canals  248. 

Delft  Gate  254. 

English  Church  254. 

Erasmus'  Statue  248. 

Ethnographical  and 
Miiritime  Museum 
254. 

Exchange  248. 

Fevenoord  255. 

Fis'h  Market  248. 

Groote  Markt  248. 

Gymnasium    Erasmia- 
num  254. 

Harbour  255. 

Hogendorp's  Statue  254, 

Iloogstraat  248. 

Hospital  254. 

Konings-Haven  255. 

St.  Lawrence  249. 

Library  250. 

Maritime  Museum  254 


Rotterdam: 

Nieuwe  Markt  249. 

Noordereiland  265. 

Park  254. 

Passage  249. 

Post  Office  248.  247. 

Kail.  Stations  246,  248. 

Stadhuis  249. 

Stieltjes  Mon.  255. 

Theatre  247,  254. 

Tulleus'  Statue  254. 

Yacht  Club  254. 

Willem's  Plein  254. 

Zoolog.  Garden  254, 

Zeemanshuis  254. 
Roubaix  57. 
Rouillon  187, 
Roulers,  see  Roeselare. 
Roux  130.  182. 
Kozendaal  359. 
Ruette  194. 
Ruhr,  the  368.  360, 
Ruhrort  309. 
Rumbeke  32. 
Rupel,  the  02. 
lUipelmonde  137. 
Ruurlo  353.  307. 
Ruysbroeck  70. 
Ruyter,  Fort  de  174. 
Rvnsburg  285. 
Kysselt  353. 
Ryswyk  258. 

Saardam,  see  Zaandam 
Saintes  70. 
Salm,  the  216. 
— ,  Chat,  of  216. 
Salzbergen  354. 
Sambre,  the  183.  184. 
Samson  224. 
Santbergen  09. 
Santlliet  137. 
Sart-lez-Spa  232. 
Sas  van  Ghent  10. 
Sasselbach,  the  239. 
Sauer,  the  234.  235. 
Saul  237. 
Saventhem  195. 
Schaarwoude  341. 
Schaerbeek  130.  195. 
Schagen  341. 
Schalkwyk  361. 
ScbarQei  235. 
Schecmda  351. 
Schelde,  the  35.  59.  62. 

138.  243. 
Schellebelle  10.  62. 
Schellingwoude  337. 
Schendelbeke  69. 
Schengen  239. 
Schenkenschanz  369. 
Schenkv5'eilerKlause241 
Schermer  341. 


Scherpenzeel  373. 
Scheveningen  270. 
Schie,  the  255. 
Schiedam  255, 
Schiermunnik-Oog  351. 
Schimpach  194. 

chiniper  225. 
.  chleif  194. 
Schlindermanderscheid 

235. 
Sehonfels  237. 
Schoonaerde  62. 
Schooten  137. 
Schouw  33S. 
Scbrassig,  Chateau  242. 
Schrondweiler  235. 
Schuelen  170. 
Schuiten  i.'51. 
Scliiitburg  234. 
Schiittorf  354. 
Schuttringen  242. 
Schweinestiille    or 

Schweigestelle  241. 
Sclaigneaux  224. 
Sclayn  224. 
Sclessin  213. 
Scourmont  183. 
Secheval,  the  232. 
Sedan  190. 
Sedoz  210. 
Seilles  223. 
Selzaete  10. 
Semois,  the  195. 
Seneffe  182. 
Senne,  the  70.  77.  130. 
Septfontaines  237.^ 
Serainchamps,  Chateau 

of  191. 
Seraing  203.  213. 
Sevcnich  240. 
Sevenum  374. 
■Shipka  Pass  236. 
Sibret  194.^ 
Sichem  176. 
SiebenschliitT  230. 
Signeulx  194, 
Simmern  230. 
Simpelfeld  176. 
Sire,  the  242. 
Sittard  372. 
Slavanten  220. 
Slevdinge  10. 
Sliedrecht  374. 
Slue,  the  245. 
Sluis  9. 

Sluyskill  10,  135. 
Slykens  6. 
Smouhen  127. 
Snaeskerke  28. 
Sneek  344. 

Sneeker  Meer,  the  349. 
Soest  347. 
Soestdvk  366.  338. 


INDEX. 


Soignies  178. 
Solieres,  the  2'23. 
Sombreffe  202. 
Sonsbeek  359. 
Sotteghem  33.  ISl. 
Souburg  245. 
Sougne  232. 
Souinagne,  the  225. 
Spa  22«. 
— ,  the  229. 
Spaarne,  the  236. 
Spontin  187. 
Sprimont  214. 
Staden  28. 
StaUe  116. 
Stammheim  369. 
Staphorst  349. 
Statte  223. 
Stave  184. 
Stavelot  232. 
Stavenisse  174. 
Stavoren  344. 
Steeg,  De  352. 
Steen  131. 
Steenbrugge  10. 
Steenhuflel  11. 
Steenwyk  349. 
Sterpenich  195. 
Steyl  373. 

Stolzenburg,  the  240. 
Stoumont  2L6. 
Straimont  195. 
Streupas,  the  214. 
Sure,  the  239. 
Susteren  372. 
Swalmen  373. 
Sy  217. 
Synghem  55. 
Syseele  10. 

Tadler  2S4. 
Taillefer  187. 
Tamines  184. 
Tamise  135. 
Tandel  239. 
Targnon  216. 
Taupeschbach  233. 
Taviers  196. 
Tavigny  194. 
Tegelen  373. 
Templeuve  58. 
Temsche  137. 
Tente-Verte  32. 
Terborgh  352. 
Ter  Doest  8. 
Terdonck  10. 
Ter-Elst  135. 
Tergoes  245. 
Ter-Gouw  354. 
Terheiden  195. 
Termonde  62. 
Ternath  11. 
Terneuzen  10. 


Tervueren  125. 
Terwagne  223. 
Testelt  176. 

Tete  de  Flandre  63.  171. 
Teufelslei  234. 
Texel,  Island  342. 
Theux  228. 
St.  Thibaut  217. 
Thielen  135. 
Thielt  31.  33. 
Thienen  195. 
Thierry,  Chateau  189. 
Thines,  the  130. 
Thionville  239. 
Thisselt  135. 
Tholen  174.  246. 
Thourout  28. 
Thuillies  183. 
Ihulin  180. 
Tiel  373. 
Tienray  373. 
Tilburg  375. 
Tilflf  214.  225. 
Tilleur  213.  221. 
Tilly  202. 
Tirlemont  195. 
Titelberg  239. 
Tongelre  374. 
Tongeren  360. 
T.ingerloo,  .\bbey  176. 
Tongres  196. 
i'orey  190. 
Tourcoing  57. 
Tour  de  Monay  187. 
Tournai  58. 
Trazegnie>  130. 
Treves  242. 
Ste.  Trinity  58.  61. 
Trois-Ponts  216.  232. 
Trois-Vierges  216. 
Tronchiennes  10. 
St.  Trond  196. 
Trooz  225. 
Tronille,  the  178. 
St.  Trtiiden  196. 
Tubize  178. 
Tuntelingen  237. 
Turnhout  135. 
Tweebeek  178. 
Twickel  354. 

Ubbergen  372. 
Uccle  116. 
Uden  368. 
Udenhout  372. 
Uerdingen  369 
Uitseest  33^.  340. 
Ulflinsen  216. 
Useldingen  235.  237. 
Utrecht  362. 
Vaartsche  Rhyn  356. 
Val-Bcnoit.  Pont,  dn  295 
Valbnrg  373. 


Val-St.  Lambert  214.  221. 
Valenciennes  181. 
Valkenberg  176. 
Valkenswaard  360. 
Vaulx  68. 
Vaux  226. 

Vecht,  the  337.  346.  349. 
Veenenburg  258. 
Veenendaal  357.  373. 
Veenhuizen  349. 
Veenwoude  345. 
Veere  245. 
Veghel  o6S. 
Veldwyk  347. 
Velp  352.  359. 
Velthem  195. 
Veluwe,  the  347.  357. 
Velzen  337.  339. 
Venlo  373.  374. 
Venray  373. 

Verdronken     Land    174. 
Vcrtrvck  195. 
Verviers  226. 
Vesdre,  the  225.  226. 
Veume  31. 
Vianden  240. 
Viane-3Ioerbeke  181. 
Vianen  361. 
Vichte  34. 
Viel-Salm  216. 
Vieille-Moutagne  225. 
Vierlingsbeck  373. 
Vierves  183. 
Vieux-Dieu  135. 
Vieux-Pre  231. 
Vignee  IV'3. 
Villers,  Abbey  of  202. 
Villers-la-Ville  202. 
—  sur-Lesse  193. 
Vilsteren  348. 
Vilvorde  131. 
Vincon  187. 
Vireux  183. 
Viroin,  the  183. 
Virton  194. 
Vise  218. 
St.  Vith  216. 
Vlaamsch-Hoofd  63.  171. 
Vlaardingen  256. 
Vlake  246. 
Vlamertinghe  30. 
Vlissingen  243. 
Vlodrop  178. 
Vlymen  173. 
Vogelenzang  2.53. 
Voeelsmiihle  236. 
Vofendam  338. 
Volkerak,  the  174. 
Voorburg  276.  356. 
Voorschoten  258. 
Voorst  352. 
Vorden  353. 
Vreeland  35i. 


40G 


INDEX. 


Vrecswyk  3G1. 
Vries-Zuidlarcn  350. 
Vruuwensand,  the  ci44. 
Vught  3eO.  372. 

Waal,  the  361.  o60. 
Waalre  360. 
Waalwyk  173. 
Waardenburg  361. 
Wadenoyen  373. 
Waereghem  55.  33. 
Waerschoot  10. 
Waesland,  the  62. 
Wageningen  357. 
Waha  218. 
Walcheren  243.  245. 
Walcourt  183. 
Walferdingen  237. 
Wallendorf  240. 
Walwyk  375. 
Walzin  189. 
Wamme,  the  191. 
Wandre  218. 
Wanlin  193. 
Warche,  the  232. 
Waremme  197. 
Warke,  the  235. 
Warmond  258. 
Warquignies  180. 
Wasmes  180. 
Wasmuel  69. 
Waspik  173. 
Wasquehal  58. 
Wassenaar  258. 
Wasserbillig  241. 
Watergraafsraeer  Polder 

338.  340. 
Water] and  333. 
Waterloo  116. 
Watermael  191. 
Waulsort  189. 
Wavre  202. 
Wayai,  the  228.  229. 
Wecker  242. 
Weener  351. 
Weerdc  131. 
Weert  177.  202. 
Weesp  346. 
Wegberg  178. 
Wehrbusch  240. 
Weiler-la-Tour  239. 
Weilerbach  241. 
Weisswampach  240. 
Welkenraedt  225. 
Wellin  193. 
Wemeldingen  174. 
Wenduyne  8. 
We'pion  187. 
Weria  217.  | 


Wervicq  34. 
Wesel  353.  36S.  369. 
Wespelar  135. 
VVestcapelle  9.  245. 
Westerloo,  Chat,  de  176. 
Westervoort  867.  368. 
Westrem  31. 
Westroosebeke  28. 
Westwoiid  343. 
Westzaan  337. 
Wettercn  10.  62. 
Weve,  Chateau  189. 
Wevelghem  34. 
Wezel  177. 
Wezep  347. 
Wichelen  62. 
Wideumont  194. 
Wikingei'burg  241. 
Wilhelminaoord  349. 
VVilhelminapolder  245. 
Willebroek  136. 
Willemsdorp  376. 
Willems-SJuis  336. 
Willemsoord  341. 
— ,  Pauper- Colony  349. 
Willemstad  174. 
Wiltz  234;  194. 
Wilwerdingen  216. 
Wilwerwiltz  234. 
Wilz,  the  234. 
Windesheim  354. 
Winschoten  351. 
Winterswvk  353.   367. 

368. 
Wirdum  349. 
Woensdrecht  246. 
Woerden  253.  356. 
Wohnung,  Haus  369. 
Wolferdange  237. 
Wolfhczen  357. 
Wolvega  349. 
Wolz,  the  216.  233.  234, 
Wondelghem  10. 
Worcum  374. 
Workum  344. 
Wormer  Polder  342. 
Wormerveer  336.  339. 
Worringen  369.  374. 
Woudenberg  373. 
Woudrichein  374. 
Wouw  246. 
Wupper,  the  368. 
Wvchen  372. 
Wychmael  360. 
Wvckel  344. 
Wvgmal  135. 
Wyhe  353. 
Wyk  aan  Zee  339. 
—  by  Duurstede  361. 


Wyk(nearMaastricht)218. 
Wykerbrug  276. 
Wyler  Meer  372. 
Wylre  176. 
Wynendaele  28. 

Xanten  369. 

Y,  the  296.  337.  etc. 

Yersekc  174. 

Ymuiden  337. 

Yperlee,  the  28. 

Ypres  28. 

Yser,  the  31. 

Yssel,   the    Dutch    347. 

348.  355.  368. 
— ,  the  Gueldr.  352. 
Ysselmonde  175.  378. 
Yvoir  187. 

Zaan,  the   336.  342. 
Zaandam  836.  339. 
Zaandyk  336.  359. 
Zaanland  336. 
Zaltbommel  361. 
Zandpoort  339. 
Zandvoort  292. 
Zarren  31. 
Zedelgem  32. 
Zeeland  173. 
Zeelhem  176. 
Zegwaard  356. 
Zeist  356. 
Zetten  373. 
Zevenaar  367.  368. 
Zevenbergen  172. 
Zevenhuizen  356. 
Zierikzee  174. 
Zoetermeer  356. 
Zonhoven  360. 
Zonnebeke  32. 
Zout-Leeuw  196. 
Zuid-Beveland   174.  245. 

Canal  216. 

Zuidbroek  351. 
Zuidlaren  350. 
Zuiderzee  290.  etc. 
Zuidplas  Polder  354. 
Zuid-Willems-Canal  3G0. 

374. 
Zunderdorp  338. 
Zutphen  352. 
Zuydcote  32. 
Zwaluwe  172.  376. 
Zwammerdam  258. 
Zwanenburg  259. 
Zwarte  Water,  the    347 
Zwolle  347. 
Zwyndrecht  63.  378. 
Zype  174. 


.eipaic:    Printed  by  Breitkopf  &  Hiirtel. 


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